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Scientific Library

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UNITED STATES PATENT OFFICE

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THE

CUatehmaket*,

Jeaieler, Silversmith,

Diamond (Derehant,

and Optician.

VOLUME XVII,

JULY, 1891— JUNE, 1893.

LONDON :

HEYWOOD AND COMPANY, LIMITED,

68, FLEET STREET, E.C.

Also at BIRMINGHAM, MANCHESTER, GLASGOW, &c, &c.

68216

540
. \A/3

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INDEX TO VOLUME XVII.

Address Caskets. By J. W. Tonks
Address Caskets, The Evolution of .
Advisability of Taking Receipts
American Patents
Answers to Correspondents . .
" Areas " Electro-plating, The
Assay Office, The Birmingham
Axinite, Natural Forms of . .

PAGE

184, 225, 246

169

18 and 19, 37, 58, 82
15, 16, 62, 146

221

116

Bankruptcy Record

19, 20, 38, 83, 103, 145,

167, 187, 206, 229, 251

Bennett, Sir John, Limited . . . . 46, 222

Beryllonite . . . . . . . . . . . . . . = . 95

Big Ben's Ancestors .. .. .. .. .. .. .. 71

Birmingham Jewelers' and Silversmiths' Association . . 45, 155

Birmingham Notes 12, 31, 49, 65, 88, 89, 109, 110, 131,

132, 156, 172, 192, 216, 236
Birmingham School of Art, Government Report on
Birmingham, Technical Education in
British Association Meeting, 1891 . .

Burglary Insurance for the Trade

Burma Ruby Mines

81
44
68
67
11

Canadian Silver Cave, The . . . . . . . . . . . . 182

Chapel Fields Philanthropic Institution . . . . . . . . 45

Chronograph, Baume's New Action in Split Seconds . . . . 89

Chronometers, Trial for Purchase of . . . . . . . . 144

Chrysoberyl, Natural Forms of . . . . . . . . . . 4

Clerkenwell Benevolent Society .. .. .. .. .. 137

Clock and Watchmakers' Asylum 89, 98, 223

Clockmakers' Company, The . . . . . . . . ' . . 223

Companies, Winding-up of .. .. .. .. ..20

Country Notes .. .. " .. ..64,91,112,151,171,222

Coventry Watch-trade Association, The . . . . . . 180

Coventry Watchmakers' Provident Society .. .. .. 179

Coventry Watch-movement Company .". .. .. 22,44

Crystallography of Gems. By the Editor 4, 28, 52, 53,

Crystal Palace Electrical Exhibition
Curious Agates — The Rainbow Stone
Cyanite, Natural Forms of . .

Description of the Mace for Burslem
Diamond Fields, The. By Vaalite

Diamonds in Meteorites
Deck- Watches, Trial of
Dublin Assay Office, The
Duke of Clarence, Death of the

22,

96,

116, 117

.. 180

.. 118

164

7, 53, 54, 69, 97, 115, 135,

157, 175, 198, 219, 242
107, 108, 190

144

179

147

English Watch Company's New Baby
English Watches, The Quality of . .
Epidote, Natural Forms of . .
Euclase, Natural Forms of . .

PAGE

159

121

Gazette Matters, &c. 19, 38, 59, 83, 103, 145, 167, 187, 206, 229, 251

Gemming and Mining Company lof Ceylon .. .. .. 97

Gemmology, Determinative. By the Editor 129, 149, 178, 203, 214

Gemmology, Lectures on . . . . . . . . . . 190

Gems, Some New .. .. .. .. .. .. ..195

Goldsmiths' and Jewelers' Institution . . ., . . 80, 152, 200

Goldsmiths' Benevolent Institution .... . . . . . . 238

Goldsmiths' and General Burglary Insurance, The .. 159, 182

Harrison, John, Once More
Horological Institute Certificate
Horological Institute, The
Huntington, The. What it Cannot Do

78, 143

146, 188, 209

24, 98

Items of Interest 14, 15, 34, 35, 57, 58, 70, 71, 99, 124, 130, 161, 246

Kew Report, The

Keighley Charity Cup and Medals

201, 202
.. 184

Lancashire Watch Company, The .. .. ... 22,183

Large Companies, The Moral of . . . . . . . . . . 233

Letters to the Editor . . . . 40, 61, 62, 72, 121, 146, 188, 208

Markets .. 15, 35, 55, 67, 98, 118, 128, 160, 181, 202, 224, 235

. . 222

.. 164

. . 195

. 234

52, 53, 72

86, 148, 174, 196, 234

Mayoral Chain and Badge for Carmarthen

Measuring Millionths of a Second

Meteorological Observations. .

Microlite

Mining and Metallurgy, The Institution of

Monoclinic System

Montana Rubies and Sapphires

New and Noteworthy 17, 18, 32, 59, 77, 100, 120, 141, 181, 227, 244
Notes About Town 9, 23, 24, 48, 64, 87, 108, 109, 150, 171,

191, 213, 235
Notes from Abroad . . . . . . . . . . . . • • 90

INDEX TO THE WATCHMAKER, JEWELER AND SILVERSMITH.

Obituary . . ..

< observation, The Royal Board of Visitors of

Olivine, Natural Forms of ..

Optician, Qualification of the

!■ A ti K

55, 77, 159

0
28
43

Patents, American 18,19,37,58,82,125,142,243

Patents, English Applications for 19, 37, 58, 82, 125, 126,

168, 181, 207, 230
Pearl Fisheries, Ceylon . , . . . . . . . . . . 224

Plate Duty, Rebate of 63

Police News .. 36, 47, 81, 101, 102, 122, 140,;i62, 18.5, 228, 250
Prescot Watchmakers' Association , . .. .. .. .. 128

Presentations .. .. .. .. .. .. .. ,. 46

Private Arrangements v. Public Bankruptcy . . . . . . 3

Protection, The New South Wales. . ... .. .. .. 165

Pyx. Trial of the 27

Questions and Answers to City and Guilds Examination ,.5, 6, 7

Questions set at the City and Guilds Examination, Ordinary

Grade
Qualification of the Optician
Quicksilver Markets

18
43
35

R
Rainbow Stone, The
Random Brieflets
Rebate of Plate Duty . .

Receipts, Advisability of Taking
Reviews . . . .

Royal Observatory, Greenwich, Trials at the

79, 93, 123, 143, 163, 205

160,228
. . 221

Sheffield. Notes 10, 11, 12, 29, 30, 49, 66, 90, 153, 111, 133, 173,

194, 215, 237
Shining Lights and Falleni Stars .. .. .. .. .. 106

Silversmiths' and Jewelers' Cricket Club .. .. .. 121,132

Silver Trade Annual Dinner .. .. .. .. .. 139

Silver Trade Pension Society . . . . . . . . 223

Snail Regulator for Clocks, Story's 16,17

Split Seconds, Baume's New Action in
Spectaclemakers' Exhibition
Sphene, Natural Forms of .. .,

Spodumene, Natural Forms of
Standard Time for the World
Swindles, Extensive .. ..

1'AllK

.. 8,9

.. 117

52, 53

. . 72

75, 76, 77, 166

. . 27

Technical Education and the Action of the Trade.. .. .. 21

Technical Education at the Polytechnic . . . . . . . . 73

Technical Education in Birmingham . . . . . . 44, 67

Trial of the Pyx, The 27

Triclinic System, The 116,117

Trimetric System of Crystallography . . . . . . . . 4, 28

Transatlantic Jottings 54, 55, 75, 92, 93, 112, 113, 136, 158,

174, 204, 220, 241
Turquoise, New Imitation . . . . . . . . . . . . 170

U
Unwrought Materials, Our 13, 33, 56, 57, 74, 125, 137, 165, 179, 240

Vulgarities in English Jewelry

Watch and Clock Making. Answers and Notes to Questions
Set at the City and Guilds of London Institute Examinations.
By I. Herrmann 5, 6, 7, 25, 26, 51, 95, 118, 138, 139, 177, 199
Watchmakers' Asylum .. .. .. .. .. ..512

Watch Company, The Lancashire .. .. .. .. 22,183

Watch Movement Company, The Coventry . . . . . . 22

Weight and Fashion 211

What Birmingham is doing for her Chicks 148

What Constitutes a Sale 105,106,114

Who Makes Our Laws . . . . 1

Windows and Window Dressing. By the Editor 94, 134,

135,154,176,197,218,239
World's Exposition, The 189

Year Past, The

128

SQe

^atcl^aker, jeweller

Entered at Stationers' Hall.]

Edited by W. J. LEWIS ABBOTT, F.G.S

[Registered for TransrWtSSfO'l'

Vol. XVII.— No. 1.]

JULY 1, 1891.

[~ Subscription, 5s. ) Post
L per Annum. ) Free.
Single Copies, 6d.

®f/Ko MaiCeA our feacDA ?

E have received numerous inquiries re-
specting a circular which is said to have
been issued by the Inland Bevenue,
notifying the intention of the Government
of putting on a new reading of the Mer-
chandize Marks Acts, and after a lapse 'of
two months from the date of the notice,
such names as " aluminum gold " and the like would be
considered a breach of the Act. We confess we were a
little curious to know whom we had to thank for this step,
of the magnitude of which we were sure he had not the
slightest idea, and being desirous of convincing him of this
fact, we went to the Inland Bevenue Office, where, after
having interviews with the heads of several departments,
we were assured they had done nothing of the kind, nor
did they even think it was a thing the Inland Bevenue
could do at all ! ! The circular in question is no„doubt one
we saw some weeks ago, which we must say rather astonished
us. It is not an English production at all, but is issued
from the Indian Inland Bevenue Office, Customs Depart-
ment, where it appears that a Mr. John Campbell, a col-
lector, is using very large personal pronouns, always in the
first person, with regard to the working of the Merchandize
Marks Acts. He goes on to say " it appears that German
silver is known not to be silver. Apparently there is no
risk that nickel silver will mislead, as these names are a
correct trade description, and also not calculated to mis-
lead. I have issued instructions not to detain articles so
labelled. The result of inquiries regarding the sale or
traffic in so-called 'aluminum gold,' seems to me to show
that there is a risk that this title is likely to mislead
buyers into believing that the metal contains at least an
element of gold. As the name gold seems to me likely to
mislead, I think it advisable that importers should drop
the word ' gold,' and use the word ' bronze ' instead. It
appears to me that the same objection applies to Canadian
and other so-called golds. It is my intention, after two
months have passed, to hold any articles so styled, to be a
breach of the Merchandize Marks Act, and to confiscate
them."

As we read these words, we pause and ask if it is possible
that the trade of this vast and mighty Empire is at the
mercy of such an ill-informed person as this ? But how
are we to find it out ? Individual members cannot go straight
to the Imperial Government and demand the meaning of
it, but a properly organised trade institution could, and this
is only another of those instances which crop up almost
, weekly, showing, the desirability of a good Trade Society.
Perhaps at this point we may inform our readers that there
are several members of Parliament who are fully aware of
this necessity and are willing to do what they can for such
an institution, and we hope that before many months are
over our heads, it will be an accomplished fact. To think
that one's business is in the hands of a man like this is
simply revolting to one's common sense. So far as calling
a shovel a shovel is concerned, why is nickel silver a more
" correct term " than aluminum gold ? Neither contain the
elements mentioned ! and as to German- silver, our exper-
ience with the public has been that there are more people
who regard it as a very low quality of silver, than there
are those who believe aluminum gold to contain any gold
at all. If "aluminum gold" is to go, then all other
similar names must go also. Objectively considered, we
must say we would rather see the whole lot swept away,
and the name applied to any article its actual and scientific
definition. A spinel should be a spinel, not a ruby, and
when pressed tightly ' ' a species of ruby known as spinel
ruby." A spinel (" ruby ") is no more a ruby than aluminum
gold is the noble metal. The same may be said of Parisian
and other "diamonds," Boman and other "pearls." We
have heard people in really first class positions in life
speak of Boman pearls as being "real although not
Oriental" ; we have even seen it in print. Let the Board of
Trade, whose office it would rather be, sweep away the
whole of these in a legal and properly notified manner, but
to have one or two substances made the victim of ill-in-
formed officialism, is neither reasonable nor constitutional !

A new Volume is commenced with the present issue of
this journal. A complete index to Vol. XVI. will be pub-
lished with the August number.

THE WATCHMAKEE, JEWELLEE AND SILVEESMITI1.

[July 1, 1891.

©JRe jKeUiAaftiPify cf (Uafting

eceipt"^.

EW verdicts were probably ever received with
more surprise in the trade, especially the
"West-end section, than that given a fortnight
ago in the Court of Queen's Bench against
Messrs. Percy Edwards and Co., Piccadilly,
W. In this case the plaintiffs sought to
recover £207 14s. for goods sold and delivered to Lady Valerie
Susie Meux. The defendant admitted the debt, but by
way of set-off claimed that she had entrusted the plaintiffs
with a pair of pearl drops to dispose of for her, which had
not been returned. The pearls in question belonged to a
suite bought at Messrs. Hancocks in 1881 for £5,700 ; at
that time drop pearls were fashionable. On this ceasing to
be the case, and solitaires being en tout rctf/e, Lady Meux
sent the drops to Messrs. Edwards to dispose of; this was
in 1887. These not meeting with a quick sale, Mr. Barber
maintained that, in response to Lady Meux's wish, they were
taken by himself to her and delivered back to her personally
at Park-lane. The only little piece of evidence that we can
see could have had any weight with the jury, was the fact that
when first applied to for them, Mr. Barber could not for the
moment remember the transaction. In tracing it, however,
the whole thing came back to him, in the same manner
that such things do return upon closer reflection. When
one realizes the nature of the business that Mr. Barber has
developed here, the thousands of high-class novelties he
has introduced, the amount of thought necessary for such
a business, one can easily see how a supposed finished
transaction should be relegated to an obscure position in
his memory, especially transactions of so ordinary a kind
as this, of which there are thousands going on. The
ignorance of these facts, perhaps, wholly accounts for the
verdict found by the jury, who probably thought this was
quite an exceptional circumstance, and one that ought to
have as much impression upon the jeweler as the five
thousand pound suite did upon them. As is well known,
it is quite customary to receive valuables from customers
without giving receipts, and also giving them back without
receiving one. At the present time there are a few hotels
that will sign for the receipt of parcels of jewelry, and
there are hundreds of thousands of pounds' worth of goods
transmitted without any receipt whatever. Probably these
also are facts of which the jury were unaware. We recol-
lect a case of a remarkable red diamond which used to be
on exhibit at a West-end house, but whenever the owner
wanted it for State occasions, he used to go and get it.
We do not remember him ever receiving or giving a
receipt for it — and this is only one instance. So far is
this leaving goods without a receipt carried, that even
wholesale houses often leave goods on appro, with an
appro, note. A case of this kind was lately tried in which
a North London jeweler refused to pay for a diamond
necklace which he had had stolen, on the ground that he
had no appro, note with it, and we are not so sure that
had not something else transpired which caused the magis-
trate to go out of his way to censure the jeweler, the latter
would have got the best of it. In cases of business men

with business men it is one thing, but with aristocracy and
tradesmen it is a totally different thing altogether. We
have known large and important accounts closed from far
simpler things than asking for a receipt, and few who do
not have dealings with the aristocracy have any idea of the
peculiar views some of them hold regarding what they call
honor, and none can help sympathizing with Messrs.
Edwards in the verdict which was accorded to Lady Meux
for the ascribed value of the pearls, seeing that it is a cir-
cumstance with which many could at any day find themselves
surrounded. To give further details of the case, and quote
our own experience in connection with similar cases, would
only be to aggravate the matter, now that the verdict has
been given. But we cannot help thinking that as the
aristocracy can hardly do without jewelers, it is only for
all to agree in not delivering anything without a receipt,
offend or please. Without this anyone may some day find
himself mulcted in a thousand pounds fine and expenses.

SSggSSs

Gurious Agates — The Rainbow Stone.

E have been asked several times of late if
we have heard of the rainbow-stone, and if
we could give any particulars of it. There
was a stone called "iris" by Pliny, which
we have always regarded as a hemihedral
variety of quartz or calcite. Such a three-
sided prism would most easily act as the iris was said to do,
viz., cast, upon the walls of the chamber the colors of
the rainbow when exposed to the sun's rays. Or it need not
even have been a hemihedral form, as under proper conditions
the light falling upon one upper side face of a holohedral
prism would leave the other upper side face suffering
dispersion and producing the iris colors. There was another
stone which the grand old naturalist called heros (Pliny N. H.
xxxvii, 53) that resembled in appearance the iris, but did
not exhibit the iris colors, but had a speckled vein
running across the crystal. From this, we think it is quite
certain that he referred to quartz crystals and to no form
of agates, which he so profusely split up under different
names.

In the December number of Science Gossip, Mr. Marrat,
of the Liverpool Free Public Museum, gave the following :

" The rainbow-stone — this is by no means an attractive
looking stone. It is a greyish, translucent ribbon agate,
with just sufficient indication of bands to distinguish it
from an ordinary chalcedony ; it is very thin and translucent.
The part of the stone containing the iridescent band, from
which it derives its name, and which is the only portion
colored, is about half-an-inch broad, and consists of fine
navy bluish parallel thread-like lines. The band above the
rainbow lines is a section of what was once quartz crystals,
and the remainder of the stone below the layer is chalcedony
sprinkled with minute red dots. This is the stigmites, or
St. Stephen's stone. When the specimen is held obliquely
between the eye and a strong sun or gas light, the prismatic
colors appear at first of an intense blue or green, in fine
wavy lines; then, when turned in the hand, the reds and
yellows make their appearance, and shine with equal
brilliancy. The stronger the light, the more beautiful the
rainbow appears. The stone need not be placed very near to
the light, as it can be seen in a room at a yard distant from

July 1, 1891.]

THE WATCHMAKER, JEWELLEE AND SILVERSMITH.

a lighted gas. I possess many specimens, both plain and
banded, some of which are quite as thin as the specimen
described above. These have all the appearance of the rain-
bow-stone, but none of them show any colors when held up
to the light."

Feeling unable from this account to be fully assured there
was anything more in this stone than in many in our own
collection, we wrote Mr. Marrat for further particulars,
or, if possible, a view of it. His reply, although very kind
and courteous, really gave no scientific explanation. We
can therefore only attempt an explanation of the pheno-
mena from analogy with some of our own. It is not at all
difficult, in looking through a few hundred agates, to see
quite a number which exhibit these iris colorings to a
greater or less degree, owing to the light falling upon one
of the crystals of quartz (of which there are many thousands
in some agates) which was somewhat separated from the
rest, either in its mode of formation, or by subsequent
rough usuage ; this, then, acts as a prism under ordinary
circumstances would do, giving rise to the rainbow colors.

Private eJ\rrangemen£ja> versus <pu.6fic

(By a Birmingham Manufacturer.)

\ I /HERE is an instinctive tendency in the average
£IL® business mind when once a loss is inevitable to
settle the matter on the most advantageous terms
possible; in homely phrase, "to make the best of a bad
job." This philosophic and practical mode of action has
much to recommend it. A speedy settlement prevents the
waste of that most valuable business commodity — time ; and
it insures the minimum of worry and anxiety, which too
often are far more hurtful in their effect than actual
monetary loss. Better know the worst at once, accept the
loss as a trading episode, rule off our ledger with the least
possible percentage of bad debt, and devote all our
energies to renewed efforts in other directions. Some such
line of reasoning as the above appears to have prevailed
largely in our trade in the past, resulting in that pre-
ponderance of private settlements over Court liquidations
which has been so noticeable during the last few years.
Let us see whether it has been a wise doctrine in the long
run.

It is unfortunately too true that passing through the
Bankruptcy Court is a long-winded and expensive process.
The fees are many and large, and the available assets of an
estate are seriously diminished by the time a dividend is
declared. Contrast this with the speed and economy of a
private arrangement. A balance-sheet (as a rule drawn up
by the debtor himself) is presented to the meeting of
creditors. From this document it is clearly seen that so
much in the £ is the very utmost that the estate can pay.
The few largest creditors, fearful of losing more money,
"rush" the acceptance of the offered dividend, and the
matter is settled at once. The only further difficulty lies
in eajoling or bribing the two or three outstanding creditors
to sign the deed of arrangement. On the other hand, the
extreme publicity of bankruptcy proceedings — especially
the severe criticism of official examination — is a very
awkward matter for the debtor, and in some cases even for
one or two of the creditors. And again the general effect
of a bankruptcy is to completely close a business — thus, as
the term goes, causing the loss of a customer in addition
to an actual loss of money. With a private composition
the business is still carried on, giving the creditors, as they
fondly hope, a chance of recouping their present loss by a

healthy and profitable business in the future. So^ the idea
has gradually gained acceptance that the operations of
" the Court " are inimical to the interests of the creditors,
and that the best and safest way out of an unfortunate
stoppage is to talk the matter over privately, take the
largest squeezable composition, and let the unfortunate (?)
debtor carry on his trade as before. Nor are we disposed
to find fault with this idea, taken simply on its merits in
individual instances. We are bound to admit that some-
times the policy of keeping out of the Court is the one to
insure the largest dividend.

But in spite of this the time has now come when the
trade at large should seriously consider whether this policy
has not, on the whole, proved a mistaken one. Glancing
back over the last twelve years we see a long and steadily
increasing series of misfortunes, which culminated some four
years ago in a perfect epidemic of failures, to the con-
sternation and loss of the entire trade. Unfortunately,
this crisis was not final, for the stream of insolvencies is
still flowing with us, giving to every business man a keen
interest in the pages of the Gazette, and throwing a halo
of suspicion and distrust over every batch of letters. A small
percentage only of these failures came into the full publicity
of the Court. There are several instances where the same
man has failed twice and even three times, each time
recommencing to trade immediately his affairs were pri-
vately arranged.

I am firmly convinced that this method of procedure,
inaugurated years ago, and still to a great extent adhered
to, has been nothing better than suicidal. The lenient
treatment of a no doubt honest case of bankruptcy was
mentally noted by men who found their monetary affairs
pressing. The ease with which one man slipped his burden
of debt did not escape the attention of others struggling
under a similar weight. Failure after failure occurred in
succession, and were speedily settled by too acquiescent
creditors. The very facility with which these private
arrangements were managed served but to spread the fatal
contagion.

Speaking too strongly, am I simply drawing upon
the imagination in drawing a picture of the bankrupts
of to-day ? They go about their business with an air
of injured innocence — rather pleased than otherwise with
the notoriety they are gaining. They offer so much in the
£ as though they were conferring a favour on their creditors,
and they pay their composition in the belief that they
are more sinned against than sinning. Sympathy and
condolence is their need, and an extended patronage after
settlement is their reward. This sort of thing should not
be, but it is a natural consequence of our own former con-
duct. Had we pursued a different line of action years ago,
these strictures would never have been necessary, and the
jewelers as a body would have fewer losses to lament.
"But," you will ask, "if you condemn what custom has
established, what procedure do you recommend for the
future ? ' '

First, - I would say, abolish private arrangements
altogether. Let every single case of insolvency go through
the Bankruptcy Court. Let it bear the fullest light of
investigation that cold-blooded officialism can possibly throw
upon it. No matter what we may lose in the individual in-
stance, we shall undoubtedly save money in the long run by
this means. With the certainty of such an ordeal before them,
shaky firms will so modify their operations as to run no
such risk. The surest method of securing payment in fall
is to give no alternative but the Court with its publicity and
its stigma. Further, I would have every instance of fraud,
or attempted fraud, prosecuted and punished ; and I
would call upon the Jewelers' Association to take the onus
of this wherever necessary. The mere knowledge that
dishonesty must assuredly meet its punishment, will be
sufficient to cripple, if not to totally destroy, its existence ;

THE WATCHMAKER, JEWELLER AND SILVERSMITH.

[July 1, 1891.

anl th ■ clever but unprincipled men around us, finding
their occupation gone, will be forced to turn their attention
to honest trading. Bankruptcy will only be indulged in as
long as it is more profitable than conscientious work.

Finally, what is wanted is the growth of a stalwart and
honest public opinion on this subject. Let sickly sentiment
be a thing of the past; let the unfortunate bankrupt weep
for himself, and not, as now, laugh in his sleeve at the
people he has duped. Time was when the Bankruptcy
Court was a reproach and a disgrace, and the sooner it is
reinvested with these attributes the better for business.
Let it h.' distinctly understood that the man who has paid
less than twenty shillings has lost caste — that he has sacri-
ficed his position. Let it be an inflexible determination in
every business man never, under any circumstances, to
reopen an account with a man who has once failod and paid
less thin 20s. in the pound.

These, harsh and severe as they seem, are the remedies
we suggest. Prevention is better than cure, and it is far
better thus to render it hard for a man to fail than after
failure to force him against his will to pay you five, ten, or
even fifteen shillings for a sovereign.

-533**

d^Raf C^e drfuni'ingfbn daanof 5©)o.

^E recently called attention to the extraordinary
i* returns made by the Huntington Mills at work in
Nevada, which give so much larger percentage of
gold than has ever been capable of being extracted by
any other crushing process. In this instance the quartz
being free milling, the crusher is able to carry out its
work to perfection ; but there are other localities where
the gold does not occur free, but is associated with
metallic sulphides, which require a treatment with which
the otherwise remarkable Huntington Mill cannot grapple.
Of the latter nature are the remarkable gold deposits of
the " Randt," where, owing to imperfect extraction, a large
quantity of gold has been left behind in the "tailings."
Some three months ago a company was floated to work
these tailings by the MacArthur-Forrest process, called the
African Gold Recovery Company. All inquiries into the
nature of this process illicited no disclosures other than that
it was a chemical one. The concern was therefore very
much vituperated by the majority of the press. But the
results of their operations in several mines have manifested
some remarkable facts, notably the great waste of gold
which has been going on in the African Gold Fields ; for,
in treating fifteen hundred tons of tailings for the Sheba
Company alone, three thousand ounces of gold were
obtained, whilst a further seven hundred and eighty-three
tons yielded thirteen hundred and eighty-five ounces. In
the limited extent, in which this process has been employed
during the last four months, it has added no less than
6,000 ounces of gold to the output of the Randt. We
were not surprised to find the re-washing of diamonds
debris a lucrative employment, but few ever dreamed that
the tailings from batteries which have always been an
expensive item to dispose of, woull ever be elevated to the
dignity of a valuable asset to any gold mining company.

It is a well-known fact in the trade that most of the
original members of the large West-end jewelers have
either long since retired or have joined the majority. In some
instances they have seen their successors also retire. Such
was the case with the late Mr. Charles Frederick Hancock, of
Eendon Hall and New Bond-street, who died a fewmonths
ago at the ripe old age of eighty-three, after being grievously
afflicted for a considerable time. His will has been sworn
under £02,1:37.

By W. J. Lewis Abbott, F.G.S.
{Continued from page 261.)

The Trimetric System — continued.

The Natural Forms of Chrysoberyl.

N describing the forms of topaz, it was
necessary to spend some little time detailing
the elements and peculiarities of the tri-
metric system, and to prevent making the
article too long we avoided all allusions to
hemihedral forms and twinning. With the gem now
under consideration, however, we shall be obliged to refer
to complications in the system, especially that of twinning.
We will first consider the more simple forms, as illustrated
in the orange, yellow, and greenish chrysoberyls ; they are
usually decided prisms with either single or double ter-
minations, the latter being very rare. The simplest one I
have ever seen is now before me ; it is a prism upon a
rectangular base with a low pyramid rising in the same
vertical zone. The prismatic faces being those of 1 and 2,
Fig. 37, and the pyramidal those of 3 and its opposite in the
same figure. This, of course, is simplicity itself, but
frequently faces of the rhombic and rectangular prisms are
both present, giving rise to an eight-sided prism ; and
further, I have, or have seen, crystals with faces of three
or four different relations to the lateral axes in addition to
these. In case, however, it should be thought there is no
governing law with these faces, I might remark that the
angles all bear a definite and recognised relation to a fixed
quantity, which unfortunately cannot be given here, as it
would have required a lot of mathematical explanations
which I fear my readers would have considered too dry.
Turning to the pyramids put on by this gem, they are
sometimes those of the octohedron 4, Fig. 37, and sometimes
those formed by the union of the brachy and macrodomes
simply, or with different relations between the vertical and
lateral axes, and consequently going up in steps, as it were.
I have never seen a basal pinacoid present. The other
two pinacoids which form the prismatic faces are usually
very finely striated longitudinally, the one parallel to the
macro-diagonal the most so. Other vertical planes are
sometimes similarly striated.

Fig. 38 illustrates most of the complexites alluded to ;
either of the faces can be much more or less developed
than shown in this figure, but it shows pretty well all the
faces that one is likely to meet with in chrysoberyl, in all
its holohedral varieties. A favorite form for Ceylon
Alexandrites, and all dark green varieties, is Fig. 37, with
the vertical axis not so elongated, so that it presents

•July 1, 1891.]

THE WATCHMAKER, JEWELLER AND SILVERSMITH.

a hexagonal outline in which the vertical and macro-
diagonal axes are about equal in length, and fully twice
as long as the brachy-diagohal. But the Alexandrite is
not always so simple in its habits ; indeed, it usually occurs
in those peculiar forms known as twins, an illustration
of which is given in Fig. 39, which is perhaps one of its
simplest twins. It is made up of three doubly terminated
crystals (similar to the one first described) crossing in a
center, giving rise to a six-limbed star ; or they may be
combinations of prismatic and pyramidal faces, adding
somewhat to the complexity : or, further, they may be made
up of three pairs of twins. Of course all this is of
supreme importance in cutting a gem : it would be simply
impossible to polish a diamond if so twinned. The silkiness
which gives rise to the true cat's-eye makes no difference in
the form of crystallization. I have before me a crystal with
well-developed faces, come parts of which are quite clear
and pellucid and the other quite silky and almost fibrous.
I have often noticed the fibrous varieties and larger specimens
are more coarsely striated, or even furrowed, and compared
with the topaz they are very dull looking. When broken off
they show a conchoidal fracture, although not so much so as
chrysolite, and no basal cleavage as is the case with the
former gem. There is also another peculiarity about these
twins that constitute Fig. 39, and that is, that when found
they are often detached and single, with the same pegtop
outline, caused by the development of the planes of union ;
or sometimes there are two only joined together by their
pegs as it were, looking as though the other limbs of the
star had been removed. There is also sometimes that
over-development of certain faces that we have alluded to
in connection with other gems ; more especially is this the
case with the pyramidal faces, so that one single face will
often monopolize the whole of the termination, giving it a
mortice-chisel shape. There is yet another form worthy of
notice : in outline it is like a flattened lozenge, it being com-
posed of two pyramids similar to those terminating Fig.
37, only far more acute, meeting at the centre, which only
leaves the one prismatic face numbered 1. On the whole
there is a tendency to lateral compression in chrysoberyl,
which, together with absence of basal pinacoid, are useful
in distinguishing it from Olivine, which in many other
respects it so nearly approaches.

Watch and Slock Making.

(Continued from page 256.)

The Board of Trade has just granted its license to an
Association composed of dealers in machines, pianos, furni-
ture, cycles, and other articles which are let out on the hire-
purchase system. Its objects are both to protect the trader
from the dishonest hirer, and ' ' to ensure for hirers fair and
honorable treatment." The Hire- Traders' Protection
Association, for such is its name, propose to achieve the
latter ends by means of a Board of Arbitration, which will
investigate any case of alleged unfair dealing on the part of
its members, on the hirer notifying same to the Secretary
at its offices, 28, Paternoster-row, E.G., and any offending
member is to be promptly expeUed. We understand that
traders residing in all parts of the United Kingdom have
already been enrolled as members, and that to these will be
granted a certificate of membership for public exhibition. It
will be interesting to note whether this attempt to purify
abuses from within the hire trade will lessen the evils of the
hire and club systems.

ehr^coer^ anc} Rote^ to Que^fio^ <§>et at ffte

d>it^ anc| (SJuif^ of teoniloq <#n<S>titu.te

Qg:a mi nations.

By I. Hekmann,
Director of the Polytechnic School of Watch and Clock Making.

(II.) — Advanced Paper, 1880.
UESTION (3).— At noon in London it is 7 a.m.

in New York, and 2 p.m. in St. Petersburg.

What is the cause of this circumstance?
Answer. — The cause of the difference of

local time between any two positions is due

to their difference of longitude. The interval
between any two successive transits of the meridian of any
point on the globe for any given time is constant, and the
difference between solar transit and mean time is the same
for any given day for all positions, so that the difference
of mean noon of any two positions is equal to the difference
of transit. The difference between the transits of any two
given positions varies as their longitude. Therefore —
., on ( east ) i . , -, . . , o / \ diff 3rence

180 : {west} longltude :: 12 : (±) of time.

-,.„. t , . longitude

. ' . difference of time = — 5—

and longitude =15 x difference of time.

Remarks on this and the following questions will be
given in connection with questions (2) and (3) in (III.
Honours Paper, 1880).
Question (4). — What advantages are secured by employing

epicycloidal teeth in conjunction with leaves that have

straight radial faces ?

Answer. — On condition that the straight face of the
pinion is a tangent to the curve at the point of contact, and
therefore at right angles to the normal of the curve at this
point ; or, what is the same thing, that the center of motion
of the straight face coincides with the end of the diameter
of the tracing circle, drawn through its point of contact
with the pitch circle of the wheel, the advantage secured is a
constant moment about the center of pinion, and an
angular velocity equal to the velocity that would be
obtained, if two discs, whose radii are of the same magni-
tude as that of the respective pitch circles of Avheel and
pinion, moved by contact. That is, the advantages are
uniform transmission of motive force (work expended on
sliding friction being neglected) and uniform lead.

This condition is satisfied in pinions above eleven leaves
with circular addendums, and in pinions below that number
with epicycloidal addendums, but not with circular round-
ings. In pinions of six leaves, the conditions specified
hold good for a pinion angle of some 43 degrees past the
line of centers. But the angular engagement of each

leave is = — - = 60deg ; therefore, beyond this measure the

(5
action is continued by employing a tooth of a higher
addendum, that is a tooth traced out by a generating circle
in excess of its right dimensions, viz., one half that of the
pitch circle of the pinion, or allowing the contact to com-
mence before the line of centers. In either case the
conditions of uniform lead and of equal transmission of
motive force are disturbed.

Question (5). — Explain the manner in which the mathe-
matically simple pendulum and the compound or material
pendulum are related. How do the oscillations of the
former vary with its length ?
Answer : — If a particle moves on a cycloid whose base is

TIIE WATCHMAKER, JEWELLER AND SILVERSMITH.

[July 1, 1891.

horizontal and its vertex veftioally below it, and the
diameter of whose tracing circle is denoted by a, then the
fchne of descent of the particle to the vertex from any point
on the cycloid is

<#* • • • ■ <->

and therefore the time of motion from rest to rest is

<rg)1

('•)

If now the particle is attached to one end of a weightless,
flexible, and inextensihle string of length = 2a, and the
other end fixed to a rigid point vertically above the vertex
of the cycloid, and in such relation to two solid semi-
cycloids that the path described by the end of the string
becomes an involute of a cycloid, then the particle will move
along the curve of a cycloid, and hence

H g) = Kt) • • • • w

where L denotes the length of the string = 2a.

\\ hen the angular displacement of the particle does not
exceed 2deg. on either side of the vertical, its path is sen-
si! ily equal to the cycloidal one, and thus the time is given
by last equation, with the provision that the mass of the
string does not influence the motion of the particle!

This condition is however only satisfied if the string is
massless, which is impossible, hence a mathematically
simple pendulum is an ideal pendulum.

^ hen, therefore, a particle is connected with a fixed point
by a string, or rod, and is oscillating in a vertical arc, it
becomes virtually a compound pendulum, because every
portion of the string tends to perform an oscillation about
that point in a different time than any other. That is,
those nearest to the fixed point hasten those further off,
and, inversely, those further from the center of motion retard
those nearer to it ; thus the actual time of motion is a com-
pounded motion, and this constitutes a compound pendulum,
and therefore every attempt to construct a simple pendulum
becomes practically a compound pendulum, and is only an
approximation to the simple pendulum in proportion as the
particle becomes a dimensionless heavy point and the string
a weightless substance.

The true time in every pendulum where these conditions
are not verified is given by

(«

where K is the radius of gyration and // the distance of the
center of gravity of the pendulum below the center of
suspension, hence by (d) and (e)

|-L . . . (/)

and therefore the time of an oscillation varies as the square
root of the length of the pendulum. That is, if the length
is reduced to one-half, the time will be one-quarter, or
conversely,. if the time of an oscillation has to be doubled
in duration, the pendulum must be four times longer.

He-marks. — The length of a simple pendulum can be
approximately found experimentally thus : — Attach one end
of a very thin thread to a leaden bullet, and the other to a
fixol point, so that the bullet can swing to and fro, then
the distance measured from the fixed point to the center of
the bullet is, approximately, the length of the simple
pendulum ; we may call it the practical length of the
simple pendulum. To connect such an experiment with
the general formula in (d) we proceed thus : — Suppose in a
particular case the length of this pendulum was found, or
made, to be 42 inches, then representing symbols by

numerical values, and the time of a swing or oscillation by
t, by the right-hand member of (d)

t = 3-1116

S/\\1 19

• • • (.</)

both denote the square

(for ( |* is the same as ! — , for
V g/ V B

root of the fraction).

Dividing 12 by the product of 12//. we get

t = 3-1416 \/ -108729

extracting square root and multiplying
t = 1-0359 seconds.
Since 42 inches are 3A- feet, equation (//) may be written thus

t = 3-1416 ]——

V 32 19

the answer will come out the same.

It is possible for pendulums of various forms and dimen-
sions to perforin their oscillations in the same time, hence
evidently there must be something in common between
them. Any body oscillating round a horizontal axis, sym-
metrical with regard to its plane of motion, constitutes a
pendulum. Suppose a simple (approximate) pendulum is
constructed so that both perform their oscillations in the
same time, then the length of the simple pendulum denotes
the distance of the center of oscillation from the center of
suspension of the material or compound, which is some-
times termed the equivalent simple pendulum. By the
property of this center, the pendulum will perform its
oscillation in the same time if it is made the center of
suspension. See (1) in (III.)

Experimentally the length of the simple equivalent
pendulum, or the distance of center of oscillation from
center of suspension, may also be found by means of
equation (m) in (2). Suppose the body describes 40
oscillations in a minute, then representing symbols
munercial values

602 x 32-19

402 x 3-14162 ' " ' ' ['>
3600 x 32-19

L =

1600 x 9-8696
•■= 7 feet 4 inches (very nearly).
From equation (A) it follows that in a seconds pendulum
602 =1
602
hence L _ 32-19 x 12

- " 9-8696 ~

= 39-138 .... (/).
The length can also be found by application of the deduc-
tions made in the last lines in answer, that is
60

:^q :: \/S9-VSS : \Zh

or P

L2: ( g V :; 39-138

where L denotes again the length of the pendulum, hence

9 x 39-138
L = -j-

= 7 feet 4 inches.

The length can also be found by calculation, and conversely
a compound pendulum of a given equivalent length can be
constructed from calculation. This, however, is rather more
of an advanced problem, as it involves the principle of
moment of inertio and radius of gyration, hence I think it
expedient to defer it till further on.

Referring to equation (n) it has been observed that that
was deduced from motion on the cycloid. There are
various demonstrations of the general formula given in the

July 1, 1891.]

THE WATCHMAKER, JEWELLER AND SILVERSMITH.

right-hand member of equation (d), but all of them are based
on motion in that curve. The cycloid is the most important
curve, both by reason of its properties and application in
mechanics. In the formula (a) there are two principles
involved, namely, the time of motion, and, secondly,
the isochronism of motion, or, what comes to the same
tiling, toutochronism of the curve. The latter can be
proved by the principle of the isochronism of straight

oscillation, which involves the condition that the force
towards the neutral point varies as the linear displacement,
or it can be proved direct from the property of the curve.
To enter into these side issues will hardly perhaps be to
the interest of the general reader at this stage, hence again
I feel under the necessity of deferring these (with the
exception of a demonstration given below) for a more suit-
able occasion. *

* Let B D V represent a semi-cycloid, W Z the tracing circle,. and C the point of
contact of the tracing circle with the base ALB. Let D be a point in the cycloid,
corresponding to the position of the tracing point and with the instantaneous
describing radius C D. Let D1 be the position of the tracing point when the
tracing circle has moved through an indefinitely small angle d </>, then D D1 being
very small

DD' = CD.d^ . . . . (a)

(<f> being in circular measure.) Let a particle move frame rest at B, down the con-
cave side of the curve, then at D its velocity v is

~ V 2g.ON
hence time of describing D Dl

DDi

V 2g.CN

(&)

(<0

Since D D1 is very small, we may eon-ider its velocity to remain constant.
Substitute the value D D1 in {a) for D D1 in (c), then if d t denotes the time

C D . d <f>
dt =

, ....(/)

V2s.CN

The triangle CBMis in every respect similar to the triangle C D N, therefore
CM : c~d : : oU : : u~a

and C D* = (J M • C jN . .
Let a denote radius of tracing circle, thus by (ft)

CD= sj 2a • C H . . .
Substitute value of 0 D In (i) for C D in (/), thus

. (ft)
(0

dt =

V 2 a • C JM

V 2g- C N
V a d <t> . . .

hence, it t denotes the time of motion to the vertex of the cycloid

- <&

But this Is alto the time of rising, hence time of one oscillation or motion frci
rest to rest

= 2 w

-*(v)

but 4 a = L = the length of the equivalent simple pendulum, hence the time is

< r

(Ufte ©iamoniL ©JiefiLx$.

(By Vaalite.)

HE time since you published my last
letter has probably been covered by one
of the most remarkable and exciting
episodes in the history of the South
African diamond fields. I cannot repeat
at length the various items that I have
sent you, which you could not find room
to print. I wish they had appeared as
they were written, as it would have given your readers a
better idea of the different phases assumed at various points
in our late struggles. The bone of principal contention is,
as you are aware, the Wesselton Mine. To make the
position intelligible, I suppose it will be best that I should
give you some outline of this very complicated case. The
whole thing turns on a question of Mining laws. Now,
under Colonial law, all minerals and precious stones are
the property of the government, and can only be given
out to prospectors by public proclamation. Under Free
State law, however, the case is very different, for there
they are the property of the owner of the soil. Now, the
farm upon which the Wesselton Diamond Mine is situated,
and which enjoys the name of Benaudheidfontein — which
means anxiety fountain — was granted under a Free State
title, so that the mine is in reality at the disposal of the
owner of the farm ; nor can even the government under the
present law proclaim it a public diggings without first
getting the consent of the owner. In its early stages the
question which was most prominent was what would be
the action of De Beers in reference to it. It was hoped
that the Premier, who was then on the water, would take
decided steps in the matter as soon as he arrived. But in
the meantime the people at Beaconsfield, close by, were
very anxious that it should be thrown open as a public
mine, especially the " Labor Bureau," an institution which
sprung into existence to provide work for the destitute and
unemployed. It was probably, in consequence of what
transpired at one of these meetings, that the mine
was rushed. Advocates for this action were sent to
stump the country all round and preach up sympathy
with the unemployed, and the necessity of having the
mine proclaimed. Circumstances in the meantime were
by no means becoming more simple, as Mr. Wessel
was away at the Cape, and Messrs. Marais and Ward

TIIE WATCHMAKER, JEWELLER AND SILVERSMITH.

[July 1, 1891.

had gone to him to settle upon the coin-so they in-
tended to take. At this time there was another claimant,
a Mr. Eland, who advertised in the local papers that he
was entitled to one-fourth share in the concession held hy
Mr. Ward from Mr. Wessel, and that he would not hold
himself bound by anything said or done by the said Mr.
Ward, without the latter had first obtained his consent.
This Mr. Ward very quickly denied, and closed him up.
In the meantime Mr. Alarais, on behalf of Mr. Wessel, had
given notice that unless the pegs were withdrawn and the
tents immediately removed the rushers would be treated as
trespassers. Then came another claimant forward, whose
claim is rather of a complicated nature and one that is not
perhaps so easily disposed of , and yet again another claimant.
You can well imagine how all these circumstances, together
with many others that I have not attempted to mention,
such as for instance, these claimants being large De Beers
shareholders, and that the new Mine would naturally drift
iuto the hands of the De Beers, should have rendered things
the most complicated and disturbed. The peggees in the
meantime finding such results as to stimulate them to get
possession of the mine at all costs and hazards. While all
this has been going on, people have got to disbelieve in
the ridiculous assertion made by Mr. Cecil Rhodes when he
was amalgamating their company, that there were not likely
to he anymore paying diamond mines foimd, and accordingly
quite a number of interesting discoveries have been made,
amongst which we might mention those on the Vaal River ;
for example, one of Mr. Cyrus, whose finds were of such a
nature that seven hundred claims have been applied for.
Nor is this alone, but two or three others, of the further
particulars of which I will write another time, have been
brought forward. Of course, during all this commotion,
the vicissitudes of the big De Beers Company have not been
altogether pleasing, but have put on several complications
about which I cannot tell you'this time. In March the price
of rough had materially fallen ; in April, however, they had
risen again ; but I am of the opinion that it cannot fail to
have an effect upon the De Beers Company, and I expect you
will see this confirmed by keeping your eye on the share list.
Every day confirms the richness of this mine, and more rush-
ing has gone on, as the people think that possession is nine
points of the law ; and how they will be got off it is still
difficult to say, as even the law may be disregarded when
the peggees are so largely supported. At this point Mr.
Wessel began to ask the assistance of law to get them off,
and accordingly summoned the ringleaders, Messrs. T. H.
Wilson and Owen Hall, for trespass. The case commenced
in the High Court of Justice, but one cannot help reading
between the lines of the protracted trial the same dilly-
dallying that has characterised the action of the govern-
ment all through the piece, and which is doubtless to blame
for the long disturbed and unsettled state of affairs ; and the
verdict given by the Court was little more decisive, simply
granting an interim interdict pending an action in the
Supreme Court. But when before the Supreme Court,
" the appeal " was dismissed with costs. Such is the
unsettled state in .which we find ourselves at the time
of my posting this letter. It will now probably be
turned to a political cpiestion, and should members of
the Opposition take sides with the rushers and the powerful
body of sympathisers at the back of them, the government
will have a difficult time of it, and many prophecy not only
a fall of the government, but a break up of the De Beers
monopoly.

fleas (Action in gf>pfif |^econiU> (inronograpl^.

HENEVER Foreign Royalty visit this
country, if nothing else will charm
them, complicated watches will. It
is very interesting to watch some of
them, how awe inspired they become
as they inspect these remarkable
evolutions of horological skill. But
yet it is not to be wondered at, when we realize what a number
of the very finest intellects that have ever acted, have unceas-
ingly had the one great object before them which has resulted
in the ordinary split center seconds chronograph. Therefore,
to make any improvement upon it, even if only a small
one, is a great achievement and honor ; but the improve-
ment which has lately been introduced by Messrs. Baume
is a very great and important one. Those who have had most
practical use with the chronograph will be the first to
appreciate its advantages. Although simplicity itself, we
have thought it best to give an illustration of it, and some
little detailed explanations.

Ouk Birmingham correspondent reports that several
Australian buyers are now in the city, and that a few
dealers from America are expected in the course of the
present month.

In the manufacture of watch-glasses, an able workman is
said to be able to cut G,000 a day.

Two blocks are given, one illustrating the open face
worked from the pendant and stud, the other a hunter
worked by two studs.

Imagining the hands to stand at zero, the first pressure
upon the main push-piece (A) will cause the two chronograph
second-hands to start travelling together (as though they
were one). The first pressure upon the supplemental push-
piece (B) will "split" the seconds, causing one hand to

July 1, 1891.]

THE WATCHMAKER, JEWELLER AND SILVERSMITH.

stop, leaving the other still travelling ; the second pressure
on the main push-piece will stop the other hand. But now
conies its importance ! Another pressure of the main push-
piece will cause the return of both hands to zero ! It thus
obviates what now has to be done, viz., using the second
stud to bring both hands back to zero. Few people realize
the skill required to time a race correctly ; the furore and
excitement by which a timer is surrounded cannot fail to
have at least some effect upon him, and often, as we have
known, cause him to leave one hand stationary.

We therefore consider this one of the most useful
additions that has been made to the split seconds chrono-
graph, and should think, in the future, none will ever be
made without it.

Meteorofogicaf ©B^er^atiorj^.

N Saturday, June 6th, the reports of the
meteorological phenomena, as made at the
Royal Observatory, were submitted to the
Board of Visitors. The additions to the build-
ing and instruments having been detailed,
the report went on to say that in the year
ending May 10th, about 6,000 observations
of Right Ascension and North Polar Distance
were made. During 1890 photographs of the sun were taken
at Greenwich on 209 days, and, with those taken in India
and Mauritius, the series is complete for 361 days of the 365.
The sun was free from spots on 175 days, as compared with
211 in 1889. Melbourne photographs are being measured
to fill gaps in the series 1875-91.

The mean temperature was 48-6deg., being 0:6deg. below
the average of the preceding forty-nine years. The highest air
temperature in the shade was 82-8deg. on August 5, and the
lowest 13-ldeg. on March 4. The latter is the lowest tem-
perature registered in March since 1841, being the same as
that recorded in 1845, March 13. The mean monthly
temperature was below the average in all months except
January, March, May, and September. In December it was
below the average by 10-0deg., and in January above 5-2deg.
The mean daily motion of the air was 272 miles, being 10
miles below the average of the preceding 23 years. The
greatest daily motion was 837 miles on January 26, and
the least 32 miles on August 6. The greatest pressure
registered was 14- 51b. on the square foot on January 26.
The number of hours of bright sunshine recorded was
1,255, which is about 35 hours below the average of the
preceding 13 years. The aggregate number of hours during
which the sun was above the horizon was 4,454, so that the
mean proportion of sunshine for the year was 0-282, con-
stant sunshine being represented by 1. The rainfall was
21-9in., being 2-7in. below the average of the preceding 49
years. The winter of 1890-91 was remarkable for a long-
period of exceptionally cold weather, which commenced on
November 25. From this day till January 22 the mean
temperature on every day except January 13 was below the
average. The temperature was continuously below 32deg.
on November 27, 28, December 10 to 19, 22, 23, 25, 28 to
30, January 2, 6 to 8, 10, 11, 17 to 19. The greatest
defects from the average of 20 years were on November 28
(19-ldeg.), December 22 (20-7deg.), and January 10
(19-3deg. ). The lowest temperatures recorded during the
three months were 18-3deg. on November 28, 13-4deg. on
December 22, and 12-0deg. on January 10. The mean
temperature of December was 22-8deg. or 10"0deg. below
the average of the preceding 49 years, the coldest December
on record since 1841 previous to 1890 being that of 1879,
whose mean temperature was 32-4deg. In 1890, December,
only 2-4h. of sunshine were recorded. On 363 days the
time signal was accurately sent to the Post Office and the
time-ball dropped. The ball at Deal was not dropped on 18
days owing to failure of telegraphic connections or high

wind. The signals sent to Greenwich to determine the
error of the Westminster clock and that used for the time-
ball at Devonport show that on 71 per cent, of the days of
observation the error of the former was only lsec, and on
no occasion more than 4sec, while the latter was lsec. out
on one day only. Looking to the future the Astronomer
Royal urges the re-determination of the longitude of Paris,
and the provision of buildings befitting the position of the
Observatory as a permanent institution.

[fates f\bout Jouyp.

WHATEVER may be the state of trade with
the Sheffield and Birmingham manufac-
turers, or even with the large London
manufacturers who depend upon outer
London and the country for their business,
it is certain that jewelers in the West-
end had a very bad month for June. More
than one has observed to us that it was more like February
than June, especially in the fore parts of the month. With
the insetting of the fine weather trade began to brighten,
and many are now making up for lost time.

* # *
In the quiet secluded locality of Argyle-

place, have existed for a long time the offices of
Messrs. Tiffany, the great American jewelers.
Here, unknown to the majority of retailers,
they have from time to time been visited by the largest
wholesale houses and diamond merchants, from whose
stocks have been selected the things which they
considered most suitable for the American market. From
such a state of things jewelers had nothing to fear, as
practically no retail business was done, and, although
Americans visiting this country often inquired after
Tiffany's store, no one could direct them to it. Now,
however, things are changed, and the American store is
now located in Regent-street, where a retail ' trade will be
carried on. We think the trade do not at present realize
what a difference that will make to many houses, especially
those who do business with Americans, as our cousins think
such an almighty lot of Tiffany.

# * *

Messrs.
Tiffany's

New
Store.

Long guards, gent's alberts, and necklets
and rear! composed of long pillars of transparent red or

blue enamel, with small white spots, separated
by pearls, are now being worn. Similar gold ones without
the enamel are also being used.

# # *

There is the same special feature in the sham-
'e rock that exists in the horseshoe, and that is

its symmetry ; in virtue of this they lend them-
selves to such a multitude of designs, which, possibly, move
accounts for their being such favorites, than any senti-
mental feelings or talismanic beliefs on the part of the
wearers. We are very pleased to see that the green
chalcedony, used during the last two seasons with such
quiet grace and good effect, has led up to green avanturine
or amazon stone being employed for this purpose. For,

to llic
Front.

THE WATCHMAKER, JEWELLER AND SILVERSMITH

[July 1, 1891.

whereas the unpolished surface of the former had a
desirable contrast with the diamonds usually associated with
it. the avantnrine has qualities of its own, especially those
caused by the minute silvery spangles that penniate it,
which cause it in some lights to appear as if covered with

dew.

# # #

t The revived old long guards of fine chain,

Guards separated by pearls and other gems every few
inches, are being asked for in the West, and
some linns are making them up.

Ordinary ^IIE r:'sm8' 3mi> or balf star, has grown in popu-

stars larity for many reasons. Firstly, it is un-
snpersefled. J J J '

questionably very effective and handsome, and,
secondly, it makes the best show at the price of any diamond
ornament, being only about half the price of a star the same
size. The rays or limbs are either straight and tapering,
curved, zigzag, or conventionalized after the desire of one's
own heart. Alternate limbs of rubies or colored diamonds
are added with charming effect. Sometimes the center
stone is a very large one, or made to appear larger by a
row of small ones. Occasionally a yellow sapphire, or
some other fancy gem, cut round in outline, is introduced
with grand results.

* * *

itcvivai ^UE impetus given to high art enamelling by
iioibci.i. tlie intro<luction of enamelled orchids has
turned the attention to the Holbein's once more,
and we now see enamels and colored stones used
together with charming effect. We have no doubt they
will become popular, especially now that public notice has
been attracted towards colored gems. This will give some
of the old firms an opportunity to re-kindle the smouldering
fire that was burning brilliantly years ago. We have
recently seen a large number of these designs, and hope tr
devote some good space to them

* # #

Pea*- After a period of somewhat quiet repose, drop

sha i><'» ii nil . . „ ,

■<>j>« or pear-shape stones are coming forward again,

Dr< .

Again.

especially in larger diamond ornaments ; but
they usually assume a swinging form. This may be the
thin end of the wedge of the return to the classic or con-
ventional designs, after the reign of flowers, au nature!.
Be that as it may, we can say with satisfaction and pride,
that the appeals to nature for designs in diamond work
have resulted in the finest examples ever produced, and we
hope that many of them will be handed down to posterity
as examples of Victorian art.

Important °N the 10th anci Uth of June were sold the
t'0"oi«V.°" first Portion of the interesting and valuable
collection of minerals of Col. Rimington. The
collection was one of the largest and best in the country.
Amongst those of more especial interest to our readers
might be mentioned several very perfect crystals of
diamonds, especially a large rhombic dodecahedron from
Brazil ; there was also a very interesting small cube. The
Eimberley octohedron in matrix was represented, as was the
modified dodecahedron in the Cascalhao (or ferruginous

gravel) of Brazil. Neither of these realized their trade value
for cutting purposes, let alone for perfection of form.
# * *

It would doubtless seem a little anomalous to
Elements members of the trade to see a good clear

The

emeu

<»r Value.

diamond of fair color sell for 50s. a carat, and
a little bit of tin about an inch long realize £15, or a mass
of what he would call iron rust sell for £20, yet such were
some of the facts of this sale. The mineral collector is
regardless of the value usually set upon things by the
outside world ; to him perfection of form and rarity are
dominant factors in determining prices.

# # *

_, , From these it follows that the Euclase, a gem

"After* °^ some beauty, but still greater rarity, is

rising greatly in price and value ; one that we

should have considered very poor in color — hardly any

color at all in fact — realized about £10, and a gentleman

who had come from Germany to buy it observed that he

would have given £30 for it if it had been a good color.

% * *

„. . There was a fine Alexandrite crystal, nearly two

Dispersion J ' J .

of fine inches in diameter, which realized about £10.

Specimens.

Other gems, such as chrysoberyls, yellow
sapphires, very fine topazes, etc., brought much less than
their trade value. Altogether there were a number of the
finest specimens of things known, in the obtaining of
which we were pleased to be able to share.

Sheffield ffotes.

(By our own Correspondent.)*

JOT a few towns throughout the country
have been disagreeably surprised by the
publication of the census returns. To
say nothing of Liverpool, whose decrease
of 105,000 is not believed in by its inhabit-
ants and will probably be the subject of a
scrutiny — not a few places have unexpec-
tedly found the balance on the wrong side.
It is satisfactory to note, therefore, that
the rate of increase in Sheffield, although not so great as
in the previous decade, is still indicative of continued com-
mercial prosperity. We number now something like 360,000
souls, and we live in a town which, in spite of its smoke, is
one of the healthiest in the country. No figures are yet to
hand showing the relative increase of the different branches
of trade, but judging from appearances one would say that
the silver trade has had its full share of the general increase.
To those whose business took them much about the town,
the amount of re-building and enlargement of factories i»
the silver and electro-plate trade must have been especially
obvious.

XT7ALKING about extensions reminds me that the
&H9 facade of Mappin and Webb's new show-room in
Norfolk-street is taking definite shape. The row of
handsome granite pillars on the ground floor, with panels
of the same material above, is much admired by the
passers by. The front of the second floor, which is just
beginning to show itself, is evidently going to be of red
brick, with stone mouldings. The whole of the work is

• We must not bo understood as endorsing all, or necessarily any, of the views of
our correspondent, who writes on his own responsibility.

July 1, 1891.]

THE WATCHMAKER, JEWELLER AND SILVERSMITH.

being executed in the very best style, and if the portion
now visible be a fair specimen of the frontage when com-
pleted, the building will be an acceptable addition to the
architecture of this part of the town.

SILVERSMITHS generally profess to be perfectly
J& satisfied with the present condition of trade. There
is every indication of factories being fully employed
up to September, when orders for the Christmas trade
begin to come in, and trade is expected to be brisk as a
matter of course. The struggle for existence in the trade
just now results in a great variety of beautiful designs
being produced. In point of fact, there never was a time
when the standard of excellence in the artistic treatment
of silver and electro-plated goods was so high as it is at
present. ~

niNE notable fact in connection with the trade as it exists
LJ at present is the proportion of sterling silver made up
as compared with, say, five years ago. I was talking
with an old silversmith the other day, and he told me that
where he made up one ounce of silver five years ago he
makes up a hundred to-day. It is probably an exceptional
case, as this proportion would not hold good throughout
the trade, but it is certain that the public who buy are
becoming wise in their generation, and are recognizing the
fact that there is more likelihood of their getting full value
for their money when buying goods in sterling silver than
when purchasing plated goods.

MANUFACTURERS in the steel trade do not by any
means express the same amount of satisfaction as
their brethren in the silver trade. Between Baring
Brothers and the colliers, to say nothing of the MeKinley
tariff, they are having rather a bad time of it. The latter
are in a fair way to success in their efforts to kill the
proverbial goose. When that consummation is effected
there will certainly be geese enough left, but they will not
lay golden eggs. There are, however, branches of the^ steel
trade which are very busy. Away in the east-end of the
town, which has now become a huge arsenal, the great
works are engaged night and day in the manipulation of
armour plates and the forging of guns. The work on hand
and in prospect is expected to keep them fully employed for
a year or eighteen months.

\|/HE rejection of the Sheffield Company's Bill for a new
^1® route to London is both a surprise and a disappoint-
ment to business men. Although the heavy trades
have naturally a greater interest in the matter than anyone
else, yet, as I explained once before, silversmiths have a
grievance peculiar to themselves connected with the carriage
of patterns to and from the town. It is felt that this state
of things would stand a better chance of being remedied
were there another candidate for their suffrages in the shape
of a new railway to London. However, it is not likely that
the matter will be allowed to rest, and the next session of
Parliament will probably see the Bill through.

\J7HE outskirts of the borough of Rotherham are distant
®±® about a mile and a half from the eastern limits of
Sheffield ; consequently, although it boasts a higher
antiquity than that to which we can lay claim, we regard
it as a suburb of our own. The forthcoming visit of the
Prince of Wales to formally open Clifton Park is, there-
fore, fairly entitled to mention in these Notes. It does not
appear to be in contemplation to confer the Freedom of
the Borough on his Royal Highness — perhaps it is not
usual to do so in the case of personages so exalted as the
Prince of Wales — perhaps Rotherham has no Freedom to
bestow. The usual silver casket, however, will still be pre-
sented, only instead of containing the Burgess Ticket it will

contain the address to be presented by the Corporation.
The usual order of things, therefore, will be reversed, and
the casket will be of infinitely greater value than its con-
tents. Although the name of a Rotherham tradesman is
attached to the work, it would probably be executed in
Sheffield. There is, . nevertheless, talent enough in
Rotherham to design a work of this character, and there
are indications in the style of the very beautiful ornamen-
tation with which the casket is covered, bearing out the
theory that such has actually been done.

\| /HE announcement that the Master Cutler is issuing
®1.® invitations to the " Forfeit Feast " — which, however,
must not be confounded with the great "Feast"
later on — reminds us that the season is advancing. We
have so recently discarded overcoats that we hardly realize
that we are in the midst of summer. Mr. Calver so far
has discharged more than his share of the public duties
which, apart from the functions properly attached to his
office, usually devolve upon the Master Cutler. The illness
and domestic affliction which, during great part of his term
of office, has been the lot of the Mayor, has rendered the
demands upon the time of the Master Cutler propor-
tionately heavier. But the summer season brings a much
needed rest from work of this kind. For the matter of
that, work of any kind " goes down " badly with such
weather as we are now having. The number of business
men who find that it is absolutely necessary for them to
get away to the seaside to repair the damages inflicted on
their constitutions by the influenza is quite remarkable.

JWT ESSRS. ATKIN BROS., of Truro Works, who seem
A@Y to have suffered severely from the ravages of the
influenza in some of their departments, are now
getting their staff at work in full numbers, and as many
more good men as they can command. Their London
branch has been at its wits ends to make the unsympathetic
business men to whom they are bought in contact, to
realize the unfortunate circumstances by which they have
been surrounded. However, they have now well wiped off
the long outstanding orders, and with that alacrity with
which they compete with those extensive orders they
occasionally get, they are not only meeting current
demands, but are bringing out novelties of high-class goods.
Amongst the things that have been very much asked for in
the trade, we might mention the artistic card tazzas they
have recently been engaged upon, in Copeland, Wedgewood
and Doulton ; we consider the coloring and treatment of
these, coupled with the good mounting, resulted in some
of the most artistic productions we have had the pleasure
of handling. Their main attention, however, is now directed
upon seasonable novelties, and in these this year they do
not appear in any way behind, compared with their exten-
sive exhibits of former years. We also hear on good
authority that ever since they layed down the extensive
plant for the spoon and fork trade, that department has
been continually increasing.

V[7HE establishment of Messrs. John Round and Son
4L® (Limited), at the present time would make one think
there has been no such thing as influenza, but that
all their workpeople have been engaged in bringing out
something new and useful, especially for the present season.
The few extremely hot days we have had makes one feel
charmed at the sight of their crystal table fountain, throw-
ing up for hours the clear, fragrant, cool water. This is a
most effective show specimen to be in anyone's stock ; while
any banquet table in the land would be graced by its
presence, it being about forty-five inches high, and com-
posed of electro-plate and fine cut glass, with receptacles for
flowers, etc. Other articles for the table are represented
by numerous novelties in sugar and creams, salads, etc.,.

THE WATCHMAKEE, JEWELLER AND SILVERSMITH.

[July 1, 1891.

ml dessert cases with new combinations. Their new
att erns in dinner services ought to be seen, especially
n ew tinted one, in which tea and coffee sets are also made
< n suit, . Refreshment stands have also received many very
elaborate additions, and most of all, perhaps, from an artistic
point of \ eiw, the dessert stands, which naturally lend them-
selves to such a diversity of treatment.

=*=

Bir/ru'p^am ffot^.

'& GENERAL reports of trade, especially at

'J^ the first part of the month, were of a very

V discouraging nature. At home things

were very dull owing to the extension

of arctic winter till after Whitsuntide ; while

abroad many of the places to which large

parcels are shipped are all suffering from

one cause or the other, so that the orders

have not come in, in anything like what

might be expected.

(7T LL those houses who are chiefly employed on good London
JjJL work appear to have suffered the most. One jobber
informed me that one London house for which he
does some particular kinds of jobbing work, and which
usually pay him an average of £50 a month, have not had
£5 of work during June. Still, for all this, nearly every
one seems busy, and all appear to be running good time.
The result of this will probably be the production of a
number of novelties, which will be in the market in good
time for the Christmas trade.

TT/HERE is a considerable stir amongst a section of the
^1® trade, owing to a circular which has been issued by the
Indian Inland Revenue Department, to the effect that
all the various so-called golds, such as "aluminum,"
'•Canadian," "Abyssinian" and the like, will be stopped
by the Customs authorities, as being a breach of the
Merchandize Marks Act. The great peculiarity of this
to me seems that nobody appears to realize the limit of this
proclamation, even if it should be enforced. They are all
thinking it affects home trade, whereas, as a matter of fact,
it can only concern goods sent into Indian ports, and,
probably, not all of them. The question as to whether it
ought to be legal to call one alloy nickel-silver when it
contains neither of those metals, or German silver when
it contains not a scrap of silver, or another aluminum
gold when it is similarly destitute of either of the metals
named, is a question which ought to have been settled long-
enough ago, and was not a subject in the minds of the
framers of the Merchandize Marks Act. Of course, if the
Board of Trade likes to use the Act for this purpose, that is
another thing ; but in looking over the Act I cannot see
how it well can, as it applies to (Sec. 2) false trade
descriptions. The question which would then arise appears
to me to be whether nickel and German silvers are not
trade descriptions. It is true that in subsequent defini-
tions "trade description" is said to mean "as to the
material of which any goods are composed." But it would
bs argued that a trade description is the name by which it
is described in the trade, and, as such, does not relate to
either place where made, or the material of which it is
composed. For instance, a cylinder watch of a certain
make is known as a Geneva, whether made in Geneva or
any other part of Switzerland, or even any other place in
the whole world ; and aluminum gold is known all over
the world as a trade description of an alloy which does not
contain a particle of the precious metal.

ESSRS. G. W. HARVEY AND CO., of 26, Frederick-
street, Birmingham, seemed to be thoroughly impressed
with the fact that there was yet room for improve-
ment in the means at present employed for the fastening of
brooches. They launch upon the trade a patent of an
unique character, as shown on another page, called the
" Invicta" brooch, which we consider is destined to receive
full favour at the hands of both wearers and sellers. As
we have noted before in our columns in regard to brooches,
there is plenty of room for improvement upon the present
mode of fastening, and it seems that our opinions are
paralleled and endorsed by firms who have come forward
recently with things of that description. It is a sine qua
non that the latest invention should be accepted, or at any
rate, is expected to be an improvement upon what has
appeared before. Any way, the inventor of the recent article
has the advantage of being able to apply and make sub-
servient to his design the inventive powers of those who
have preceded him, so that in the ordinary course of things
it might be taken as a logical deduction that the latest
should be the best. But as we are not wearers of brooches
ourselves, it is only our province to draw the attention of
the trade to what may be considered a really good thing,
and to suggest the propriety of making themselves prac-
tically acquainted with the nature of the article in question.

ffie dSo^entrij ©y/atcf^ Mo^emenf Manu-
{?acl"orij d>ompcmij, "taimifecj.

rHE annual meeting of the above Company was
held on June 3rd, at their works, Spon-
street, Coventry, Mr. Samuel Yeomans in the
chair. The Secretary, Mr. E. F. Peirson,
read the annual report to March 31st, from
which we take the following :

The directors regret to have again to report
a loss, but feel that having regard to the
special circumstances under which the working has been
conducted, a different result could hardly be expected. It
is well-known that even in ordinary cases the commence-
ment and building up of a business involves waste and loss.

The new machines referred to in the previous report, and
which have since been put down, have fully answered the
directors' expectations, but they have not been in use for a
sufficient time to have any very appreciable effect upon the
trading, although, as a matter of fact, the loss during the
past six months has been less than that of the first half of
the year.

Working on the old system, the quality of the movements
was found to be unreliable, but alterations have now been
effected which will prevent a recurrence or cause for com-
plaint, and the movements now supplied may be relied
upon as being thoroughly sound and serviceable.

The directors look forward to the future with confidence,
being of an opinion that satisfactory results will accrue as
soon as they have a sufficient quantity of the new plant,
and to this end they invite the hearty co-operation of the
shareholders in obtaining further capital.

The directors deplore the death of Mr. I. J. T. Newsome,
who was a member of the board from the formation of the
company, and are glad to state that Mr. John Ashworth,
of Manchester, has accepted the invitation to fill the vacancy
thus created.

The retiring directors are Messrs. Rowland Hill and
Charles Read, who, being eligible, offer themselves for
re-election.

The trading account disclosed a loss on the year of
£344 6s. 5d.

The Secretary read a letter from Mr. Rowland, apolo-
gising for non-attendance, and adding : "I trust that the
present shareholders and those members of the watch trade
who are not shareholders will, by taking a good number of

July 1, 1891.]

THE WATCHMAKER. JEWELLER AND SILVERSMITH.

the preference shares up, so rally round the undertaking as
to materially assist us in making a great success of it."

Mr. E. T. Peirson (the company's auditor) also wrote
apologising for non-attendance, and said it only required
united action to make the company a success, and to show
his confidence in the concern, signified his willingness to
take up £50 of the new shares if the scheme was taken up
heartily by the present shareholders.

The Chairman, in moving the adoption of the report,
said it was a disappointment that £344 had been lost on the
year's trading, but yet he was not discouraged. The small
amount of capital placed at the directors' disposal at the start
had been a misfortune right through, and 18 months elapsed
before the company had a real hold on the business. But
during the last six months the output had considerably in-
creased, though instead of making £2,000 worth of move-
ments a year they really ought to be selling £5,000 or
£6,000 worth. The needs of the company were more
capital and the orders of the local trade.

A long discussion succeeded on the working of the factory
and the movements turned out. It was admitted that the
company had not been able to supply certain movements,
and had concentrated their efforts on perfecting the frame.
Messrs. Flowers and Bales asked questions, and Mr. Denny
and other directors made explanations. The main points
kept before the meeting were these — £30,000 worth of move-
ments are sold each year ; of that the company has had but
£2,000, and it ought to have a third of the total. Unless
other shares are taken up, the company would collapse and
an immediate advance in the price of movements would
follow. Ultimately the report was adopted. Mr. Gandy
then moved, and Mr. S. W. Read seconded, the re-election
of the retiring directors (Messrs. R. Hill and C. Read), and
it was carried. Mr. S. W. Read ascribed the company's
.difficulty in getting capital two years ago to the fact that at
that time Coventry people were " bicycle mad." It was
decided to add the £511 2s, 7d. loss on the two years'
trading to the formation, goodwill, bonus, and extension
account, amount to which the balance-sheet put at
£944 10s. 4d., and write off the whole at the rate of one-
tenth per annum.

An extraordinary general meeting followed, when it was
proposed to issue 1,000 shares of £5 each bearing 6 per
cent, cumulative interest.

-s*3$e-

©ur Llnoorougftf MafenaP^.

j4yaline v. Celluloid.

NE of the greatest objections against celluloid is its
inflammable nature. We have known instances
of a candle falling upon piano keys, and the whole
catch fire ; and a lady to have her comb ignite
in accidently passing it through the gas flame
while at her toilet. We are now informed of the
existence of several new compositions which
compare favorably with celluloid without being
inflammable, at least to any degree. The
advantages claimed for an Austrian production called
" hyaline " are that it is tenacious, odorless, transparent,
and can be easily worked.

N:ew Artificial Jvory.

There is another, the co-invention of two Swiss residing
in Paris, which perhaps is the only patent that can lay
claim to being called artificial ivory, inasmuch as it alone
is composed of chemical elements, which exhibit similar
physical properties to the finest old elephant ivory.
Some of the latter, such as specific gravity, plasticity, and
hardness, can be varied to suit the uses for which it is
required ; and various alterations of the component alkalies,

etc., can be made without detriment to its production-
The materials and quantities employed in one form which
best represents the finest ivory are : caustic lime, one-
hundred parts ; water, three - hundred parts ; aqueous
solution of phosphoric acid, with specific gravity 1-05 to
1-07, seventy-five parts ; carbonate of lime, sixteen parts ;
magnesia, one or two parts ; precipitated or hydrated
alumina, five parts ; albumen, twenty parts ; gelatine,
fifteen parts. Some little skill is necessary in the mixing ;
thus the caustic lime is first treated with water sufficient
to hydrate it, but before the hydration is complete the
phosphoric acid is mixed, during which time carbonate
of lime, magnesia, and alumina are added, and
then the gelatine and albumen. It is afterwards made
into a paste and thoroughly kneaded, and can then be
placed in moulds and set to dry under pressure accelerated
by heat. After three or four weeks it can be cut, turned
and polished in every way similar to ivory. It is
susceptible of taking any color desired at an early stage
in its manufacture. If what we hear of this is correct, and
we see no reason why it should not be, a greater future is
before this than for any substitute for ivory yet introduced.
The details given, we trust, are sufficient to set others in
this country making yet new compositions.

The Name Aluminum to be Shortened.

There are good reasons why all names frequently
employed to designate certain articles should be as short as
possible, and with our metals in common use, or those with
names of long standing, we have but little to complain' of ;
but with all the modernly discovered metals, a desire to
maintain a somewhat uniform system of nomenclature has
extended their length to three and four syllables ; and now
that aluminum is coming so much to the front, the question
has forced itself forward whether its long name is desirable.
Most people who have thought about it, say it is not.
Accordingly we hear that a great uniformity of consent exists
amongst the engineers and technical journals on the other
side to reduce the length of the word aluminum toalium.
This meets all wants of the case, retaining sufficient of the
original root to be known, and possessing the ending which
scientists have long since recognised for an element, while
it reduces the length of the word to a minimum.

New Nickel J_odes Piscovered.

News has recently reached us of some valuable discoveries
of precious metals in South Dakota ; also of valuable nickel
lodes — one fifteen feet wide yielding three to seven per cent.,
and another, which possibly may be the same, fully three-
quarters of a mile off, probably ninety feet wide. Those
who are interested in this Valuable metal, and know how
scarce it is becoming, compared with the demand, will
look upon this with pleasure.

Opals in Drigon.

Attention has once more been called to the opals of
Morrow, co. Origon. Further discoveries and prospecting
point to an outcrop of opal-bearing rock about 300 feet
long, much of which is said to be fine in quality, especially
the Girassole or fire opal.

piscovERY of Native Mercury.

It is very rarely that mercury is found free, native and
isolated, but information has reached us from Mr. H. Y. L.
Brown, Government geologist, that it has recently been so
discovered by him and others in clay, etc., in free globules
near the township of Willunga, Australia. In one
instance the bed rock is claystone, and kaolinised gneissic
schist, with granite veins very much decomposed. The
geologist has recommended a company to operate upon the
bed rock and prospect for cinnabar (sulphide of mercury),
which in all probability will be found if mercury be present
in any quantities.

THE WATCHMAKER, JEWELLER AND SILVERSMITH.

[July 1, 1891.

OME interesting correspondence has re-
cently taken place between a London
film and the Treasury Department at Wash-
ington, as to -whether the representative of
the firm could take unmounted and other
goods for the purpose of sale into the United
States, and give a bond to pay the duty upon
anv goods sold, or deposit the whole amount
of the duty at the Custom House and receive back the
balance on the goods taken out of the country. They were
informed that, if the representative desired to retain
possession of the goods and sell the same, it would be
necessary for him to enter them for consumption and pay
duty thereon. No duty could be refunded on exportation
of goods which did not remain continuously in the Custom
House ; and no bond given to secure the duties would
enable the agent to obtain the goods, except on payment of
the duty. Do our American friends intend to kick the cow
now the calf is growing ?

Wew Anothek patent has been taken out in America
Earring- for ear wires. It is one of the best we have heard
actum. 0^ revering tilting absolutely impossible. It
resembles the well-known American lock swing drop ; only
instead of the hook which catches the wire being at the
bottom end of the wire (behind the collet) it is replaced by
a vertical tube, through which passes a bar or a small stop
knob on the top and a transverse hook at the bottom. By
drawing down the hook, the back passage is quite free for
the passing through of the lobe of the ear. When returned
into position the upper part and knob comes against the
back or lobe of the ear, preventing tilting, and the hook or
eye grips and locks the wire.

# * *
The perfection to which modern optical in-
struments can be carried was thought to be
exemplified by the objective made by Tolles, of
Boston, which magnified 7,500 diameters, there-
by rendering visible many things which the most perfect
instrument failed to reveal. But this is entirely eclipsed
by a Frenchman, who recently published an account of an
optical apparatus by which he could see the spirit (or le
corps fluidique) leave a dying man ; the language in which
he describes the revelations made by this instrument is as
eloquent as it is absurd. "A delicate column of violet
vapour, condensed into a flocculent mass, was clearly seen
above and around the body. ^Particles appeared to pursue
one another as if obedient to some kind of central attrac-
tion. The cloud condensed more and more, and took the
vaprous form of a man, then rapidly became purified, until
it was colorless as the most perfect crystal." ! ! !

* # #

Other people beside bondholders are aware of
^coinV.'* the fact ^lat the value of a thing is the money

it will bring, as evinced by the sale of coins at
Messrs. Sotheby's on the 1st June, and shown by the follow-
ing : — Gold. — George IV. pattern £5 piece, 1826, by Wyon,
£11 5s. Several Victoria Jubilee £5 and £2 pieces, 1887,
were offered, but no bid was made equal to face value, and
they were consequently withdrawn. Elizabeth sovereign,
£10 ; Elizabeth royal, £18 10s. ; James I. 80s. piece, £10 ;
George II. pattern two guinea piece, young head, 1733,
usual type with plain edge, £11 ; George II. pattern guinea,
1727, plain edge, £19 ; George III. pattern guinea, 1813, by
Wyon, £12 12s.; George III. pattern "standard" guinea,
1813, by T. Wyon, £21 5s. : George III. pattern guinea,
1813, £17 ; George III. pattern sovereign, 1816, by T.
Wyon, £22 5s. ; George III. £2 piece, 1820, by Pistrucci, 15
guineas ; silver Victoria pattern crown, 1845, £12; Victoria

Spirits

rendered

Viwiltle.

pattern florins, 1848, four varieties, £14 ; another set of four
varieties, £15 8s. ; and another set, £20. Miscellaneous
Medals. — Manteau Van Dalem, engineer-in-chief of the
Parliamentary forces, 1647, by Abraham Simon, £28 10s. ;
Sir James Harrington, major-general in the Parliamentary
army, £23 10s.; Sir John Hotham, by T. Simon, £25.
Silver. — William Rufus penny, £4 10s. ; Eustace, Governor
of York, penny, rare, £24 ; another, slightly broken on edge,
13 guineas ; Stephen and Matilda penny, rare, £28 ; Henry
VII. shilling, £28 ; Elizabeth portcullis dollar, £7 : James
I. half-crown, second coinage, seven guineas ; Charles I.
Tower crown, £13 10s.; Charles I. Exeter half-crown,
£9 5s. ; shilling, first coinage, perfect condition, £30 10s. ;
Scarborough siege piece for three shillings, type of castle,
octagonal shape, unpublished, rare, £41 ; Scarborough
siege piece for two shillings and fourpence, square, unpub-
lished, £31 ; Charles II. half-crown, small bust, 1663,
equal to a proof, £28 10s. : Ciolwlf penny, five guineas ;
Aulaf, King of Northumbria, penny, £6 15s.

* # #

Hashed ^s instances of the disgusting rubbish copied
for tiie into trade journals we might quote the follow-
xrade. jQg. from two just to hand: "Did you know
that pearls get sick? " asked a well-known Atlanta jeweler
yesterday. " They do, and like babies, they require a
change of climate when their health is bad, or else they
•crumble or die. I know of a case once where a lady went
into a jeweler's with a magnificent set of pearls that were
losing their lustre and beginning to look dead." " These
pearls are sick," said the jeweler, upon examining them,
" and unless you take or send them to a decidedly different
climate at once they will become worthless." " They were
sent off, and within a month were as bright and pretty
again as they had ever been." In another, describing the
process of diamond cutting, it is said the bad shaped
pieces are chipped off with chisel and mallet ! !

* . # *

Fifty Amongst the mottos which we have known
'rins"8" engraved inside wedding rings are the follow-
iriottos. jng fifty : — " United until death," " United for
ever," " Pledge of love," " Yours for life," " I am thine,"
"A token of eternal love," "Undo it who can," "Love
conquers all," " Happiness (is) gained by love," " I devote
my life to thee," "Love by God's will I shall," "Two
united in one," " Where there is love there is happiness,"
" This is the bond of love," " From love springs all our
hope," "In this sign is my hope," " I will never forget,"
" Not the voice but the vow," " Now and for ever," " Yours
till death us part," "Take me as I am," "Let this ring
always cling to thee," "I shall never forget," "God
decreed, and we agreed," "Part us who can," "By this
we conquer all," "Here ends all flirting," "Good bye
all else," " U & I R 1," " U & I for ever," " U & I together
love," " This lock knows no key," "My joys all spring for
thee," "The knot that binds," " By love we live," "Love
and forgive," " Despise all else," " May this break with my
vow," " Faithful ever," " Wholly thine," " What this joins
none shall sever," " I am thine and thou art mine," " By
thee I henceforth live," " Hail transmitter of my name ! "
" Henceforth we're one," " The devil take the rest," " We
ride abreast," " Better have none than plural," " Kindness,
nobler ever than revenge."

* # #

when "^T inay no^ De known to all that gold is yellow
Gold is only by reflected light. If a leaf of gold, . as
Green, ordinarily used by gilders, be placed between

two pieces of glass and held up to the light, it will be

seen to transmit a brilliant green light.

# *• #

„, Some remarkable and somewhat similar pro-

parent perties are claimed for the metal platinum. It
Platinum. ^g sa^ ^at when reduced to sufficient thinness

it is perfectly transparent, and may be used as a covering

July 1, 1891.]

lIIE watchmaker, jeweller and silversmith.

for a picture, and further that it can be used as a panel for
a door, when, to a person on the light side it is a perfect
mirror, while to the one on the dark side it is quite
transparent.

# * *

It is going the round of the papers that, at
Go"»1es™ the suggestion of Dr. Verincourt, of the Depart-
ment of Agriculture of Russia, a large number
of Russian farmers have had recourse to blue spectacles in
order to preserve the sight of their herds of cattle, and
in one province over 4,000 animals are now meandering
about with the aid of blue glasses. This has been found
necessary because the reflection of the light upon the snow
has been so blinding that tens of thousands of cattle have
been attacked with ophthalmia. According to a recent
dispatch from Vienna, the entire supply of blue glass
in Vienna has been exhausted for this purpose, and it has
been found necessary to obtain additional supplies from
Paris and London. A farmer, who is now in Vienna, says
that the sight of thousands of cattle groping their way
through the snow with their eyes cased in immense
goggles, is one that can neither be imagined nor adequately
described.

(Hfte Siamoncj Marftefi«>.

VrTHERE is not the slightest sign at present of any fall
®JL® in the price of diamonds. There has been a good
supply and assortment of rough, and although there
were a great many foreign merchants, especially Dutch, on
the look-out for bargains, few felt that they were able to
find them, and thus, owing to the prices being kept up, sales
were naturally feeble, as only very large and speculative
firms dared to invest in rough diamonds at their present
prices:

Turning to Amsterdam, the complaints are very great, as
on the whole the month of June, which is generally avery
good one for trade, has been very unsatisfactory. They
have probably suffered the first effects of the expulsion of
the Jews from Russia, as in all times and all countries
the diamond trade has been largely in the hands of the
Jews, many of which on previous years nocked to Amsterdam
and Paris in the month of June for large purchases of
diamonds for their great fair at Nizhnee Novgorod, where
a large diamond trade is always done with the Easterns
who annually visit this fair. This Russian policy strongly
reminds us of the probability that history repeats itself,
and that the sad experiences of Spain will follow as a con-
sequence. The Amsterdam merchants now look forward to
a better sale with the Russians, who will probably have
exhausted their stocks in August. As usual there are a
number of American buyers, who are simply purchasing fine
stuff, especially now that 12i- per cent, duty and expenses
have to be paid. Through the high price of rough, many
large manufacturers did not feel justified in buying, and so
cutting has been quiet.

In Paris no improvement has taken place, probably
owing somewhat to the South American troubles, as no
merchant or anyone else there now thinks of investing in
diamonds, although it was previously a very fair market.
The United States buyers are still seeking fine stuff, but
want it at such low prices, and drive such hard bargains.

COLORED STONES.

Extra fine goods are still sought for. Rubies still command
a price that would frighten any but the few into whose hands
they fall. Bright Siam, of about from one to two grains,
are much asked for and bring large prices ; small and poor
stuff is plentiful and low. News from the Jura, Switzer-
land and Germany is of a heartrending nature. Mills are
standing idle, and whole families are starving, as it is neces-
sary for the whole family to work to be able to cut those
small hard stones at about two shillings a carat.

&oarc| of (UraeLe S^eturn^ for Maij.

The Board of Trade returns for May, compared with the
same month for 1890 and 1889, were as follows : —

Imports — Watches.

Watches and parts thereof —

May 1891. May 1890. May 1889.
£51,218 £74,327 £59,054

Decrease compared with last year, £23,109.
Imposts — Clocks.

Clocks and parts thereof —

May 1891. May 1890. May 1889.

From France £11,808 £14,824 £13,255

„ United States... £12,479 £7,752 £6,137
„ Other Countries £20,466 £19,056 £16,865
Increase compared with last year, £3,121.

Taking the year from its commencement it shows an increase
of over ten thousand pounds worth of clocks imported, com-
pared with the same period of last year. The above figures
for May point to a decrease in the trade with French clocks,
but great increase with the United States and other countries,
amongst the latter of which Germany stands prominent.
As, however, the new discoveries of " Mexican Onyx " will
probably give an impetus to the French trade, we may
shortly see the figures somewhat altered, unless the
Americans lay themselves out for cutting and polishing this
material, as we hear they are doing.

It is, however, very gratifying to find such an immense
drop in the import of watches. We only hope it means so
much more trade in English watches.

-=SRS*S-

ANSWERS TO CORRESPONDENTS.

♦

Inquirer. — We have read with mixed feelings the absurd
nonsense that has been written in various journals connected
with the trade regarding the watch as a compass. It is
only another illustration of how important it is that a
trade journal should be conducted by one who knows what
he is talking about ; but of course we cannot spend our time
or waste our space in setting these foolish people right. With
reference to the other journal and the painted diamonds, it
is to be accounted for in this manner : a number of men write
to editors offering their services, each assuring them of his
special qualifications; their coutributions are accepted by
the editor, who, of course, is responsible for inserting the
rubbish, but if he does not know right from wrong, so
much for the general worth of the journal !

J. Watson. — Please take the answer to Inquirer as
yours also. Allow me further to remark that we purpose
giving a series of short elementary papers on astronomy, _ or
upon that branch of the science inseparably connected with
our trade, so that should any fresh assertion be made in
connection with the measurement of time, or the relation
of the motion ol our planet to any other body, our readers
will be able to tell if it is correct.

W. J. T. — We are glad to say that we can reverse the
proverb " When doctors fall out the patient dies." The
intaglio submitted is not a peridot, as three West-end
jewelers say ; nor a green sapphire, as another Bond-street
jeweler believes it is; nor is it a chrysoberyl, nor even a
tourmaline, or spinel. The only persons who were right in
what they said were " the others who said they did not
know." It is simply green obsidian, or natural glass, by
which is meant a mineral that presents no crystalline
structure. The absence of crystalline structure in obsidian
originates in the lava cooling too quickly, before crystals had
time to separate out. Sometimes, however, there are tiny
little elementary crystals— if I might use the expression-
called microliths etc. ■ but when these are not present, it

THE WATCHMAKER, JEWELLER AND SILVERSMITH.

[July 1, 1891.

always contains more or less gas bubbles; sometimes they
are so numerous and close as to give fist' to chatoi/anei/ (see
Horoloifical Journal, Jan., 1891.) A good lens, especially
a platyscopic, will at once show these bubbles in your
intaglio, whicb will immediately distinguish it from peridot ;
whilst its softness will distinguish it from cither of the
other gems, ain't its specific gravity would distinguish it in
a moment from anything else, it being only rather more
than half that of a sapphire.

Mkssks. L. Bros., I. M., G. J., and others. — Our article
on the subject of which you write will give you the
information you require, as the case at present stands.
We do not, however, intend to let it remain here without
testing its validity in some way.

A. R. — So long as the club system is conducted on the
lines it is by the firm you mention it is perfectly legal.
We are in the position to tell you the agent is their paid
weekly servant, and that his retainer wages (we don't say
how small it is) are sent to him every week. When the
disturbance was made about the newspaper watch lottery,
we believe that in Parliament watch clubs were pointed
out as being legally conducted, and thus differing from
the newspaper lottery.

J. Wallis. — The watch casein which " only a unicorn's
head is distinctly visible," is of Dublin stamping ; the
other figure which looks like Britannia is Hibernia, one
of the duty marks ; it is, no doubt, 18-carat. The shape
of the shield is more important than the type of letters,
Roman capitals having been used several times, viz.,
from 1646-1670, from 1746-1770, and from 1821 to 1846.

I. Angel. — Yes, it is easy if you know anything of
Equations to be able to tell the quality of any gold by
taking its specific gravity. Thus, supposing the article to be
composed of gold and copper, and knowing the specific
gravity of these, we find one cubic inch of water weighs
0-528oz. Troy, gold 10-160oz. Troy, copper 4-602oz. Troy
(or if it is the alloy usually employed in 9-carat gold
— 11 parts silver and 7 copper — 6-84oz. Troy). Article
examined to be 6-864oz. Troy. Then by Equations we
find (//) copper equals 0-595 and (%) gold' equals 0-407, or
9 carats 8 grains fine. It was, indeed, in connection with
a similar experiment that the great Greek Philosopher
discovered the laws of specific gravity, and which dawned
upon him first when in his bath, its realization being so
overpowering that he ran home out of the bath, forgetting
to dress, exclaiming as he went along the streets, Eureka .'
Eureka '. '.

J. S. Watson. — We are much obliged to you for your
letter re the articles on Crystallography, and we hope you
are by no means the only one who has derived instruction
from them. We have heard them very highly spoken of all
through the country, which of course is very gratifying to
us, as no one has ever attempted this subject before. We
intend publishing them in book form very shortly, as soon
as the last article appears, and this we intend to make the
first of a Mries of hand-books on subjects connected with
the various branches of the trade. The physical properties
of gems will form a separate series, and that is why we
make no allusion to those and other properties.

L. Dumorkt. — The address of the Journal Suisse
iV Horologerie is 8, Rue Neskar, Geneva, and the Revue
Chronometrique 154, rue St. Honore, Paris.

J. B. — You are a little wrong about machine-cut files.
We have frequently heard it remarked that the absolute
regularity of them produces ridging of the surface of the
object. To obviate this some machine file cutters employ
one inch of one number and the next inch of another
alternately. The heaviest work can be done when the file
is held so that the point of the diamond is brought straight
against the metal. If the operator is left-handed the file
should be " rowed " accordingly.

A. B. S., Perth.— The commonest liquid flux in use for

'all sorts of rough work" is prepared as follows: — Add
pieces of zinc to hydrochloric acid until it ceases to
effervesce. After standing a day or two filter and com-
pound with one-third its volume of spirits of sal-ammoniac
and dilute as required.

To the Editor of The Watchmaker, Jeweller and
Silversmith.

Dear Sir. — I was surprised to see in the Jeweller for
April an illustration of a portion of my patent for the
suspensions of regulators for French clocks. Had I been
aware of your intention of inserting it, I would have asked
if you would have been kind enough to have inserted full
illustrations, so as to have conveyed a better idea to your
readers of the working of the regulator.

No. 1. -Part of dial showing Indicator and Pointer.

No. 2.— Single Snail Begulator for rise and fall pendulum,

ready to be screwed on cock of clock.

Brocot's principle.

No. 3. — Regulator with double Snail as screwed on to cock,
raises and lowers stud regulator on Brocot's system.

The system illustrated with the single snail raises and
lowers the pendulum, on the' same principle as the snail on
the regulators of English chime clocks. This system will be
at once understood by those who have seen an English chkne
clock. This regulator for French clocks has had an
exhaustive trial for some years, and is thoroughly reliable
and cannot get out of order ; it cannot unscreio or overturn
ns tin' regulators at present in use arc liable to do. Further,
you can see hi/ the indicator on dial in what position the
regulator is, which you cannot do with any other .system nine
ased on French clocks. The indicator also shows which way
and how much to alter the regulator. II ith this regulator
there will he no occasion to send a man to regulate a French
cluck, as the owner of the clock- or even mi intelligent child
could do it. The double snail illustrated regulates in the
same way, but it acts on Brocot's principle; instead of
lowering or raising the pendulum, it lowers and raises a
stud, thereby shortening or lengthening the play of the
suspension spring, according as the clock is required to go
faster or slower.

July 1, 1891.]

THE WATCHMAKER, JEWELLER AND SILVERSMITH.

Perhaps I may be allowed to say that several years ago I
was struck with the inadequacy of the regulators in French
clocks, their uncertainty and overturning, and, there being
no guide to see how much to alter the regulator, or in what
position the regulator was, whether at top, bottom, or where.
I dare venture to say that every practical man amongst
your readers has experienced the same thing, and has
also been surprised that a more scientific and correct
system has not been invented years since by French clock
manufacturers, instead of their still groping in the dark
when regulating their clocks, the same as we used to do
60 years since with the circular regulators on verge
watches, which is a fair comparison of the system
at present used in French clocks. It has surprised me the
French clockmakers have not adopted this system which
is similar in principle to the regulators on English chime
clocks, which are scientific in principle, and answer every
purpose. The Germans have just adopted this principle
for their clocks. I am aware the French clockmakers
have a great demand for their clocks, consequently they
may consider there is no occasion or necessity to improve
them ; I am also aware that French clockmakers do not
make the suspension or regulator at all, but that all buy
them from suspension makers, and that suspension making
is a trade of itself. Yet, for all that, I should have expected
some French clock manufacturers would have had a desire
to improve their clocks, and have adopted a system by

No. 4. — Double Snail before being rivetted on the arbour exact

size.

No. 5. — Suspension Spring exact length.

which any person, whether in the trade or out of it, could
see how much to alter the regulator of his French clock
when it required it, as easily as he could alter his English
chime clock.

The first French clock manufacturer who does adopt
this system will benefit accordingly, for everyone who tries
them the results will be so satisfactory that they will not
wish to have any more regulators on the old system, and
the extra cost wholesale to the clock dealer will be very
little, which amount may be saved in the time in regulating,
besides the satisfaction of selling a clock that has a more
scientific regulator, and is consequently a more perfect clock.
I have never shown a clock with this regulator to a practical
man, but he has said it is the system that has always been
wanted for French clocks. I have also exhibited it at the
British Horological Institute, and have had the honour of
having submitted one to Lord Grimthorpe, the president,
who was kind enough to say it carried out what was
claimed for it, and was a great improvement on the
systems at present in use. I hope to see French clocks
on this system shortly on sale in this country. Any clock-
maker desiring to introduce this regulator to the trade will,
I feel sure, be satisfied, that it must sooner or later supersede
the old systems entirely as completely as the present
regulators on watches have superseded the old circular
regulators. — I am, yours faithfully,

Market Place, Dewsbury. W. T. Story.

Jj^ings ||@$/ or §fobeWorbb)Lj,

The makers of the well-known " Triumph " lathe are
bringing out an additional accessory of great value to every
watchmaker, in the shape of a new patent rounding-up
tool, which is likely to still further establish the claim of
superiority for the " Triumph " lathe. The illustration
shows the new tool as fitted to the lathe. It combines
with the well-known accuracy of workmanship of all
" Triumph " tools, a number of important improvements,
and there is no doubt that it will eventually supersede all
the old styles in the same degree as the " Triumph" lathe
has superseded the old-fashioned turns.

The advantages of the new tool are summarised as follows :
(1.) Excellence of workmanship and accuracy in every
detail. (2.) Easy handling on account of simplicity of
construction. The vertical sliding movement usual in the
old patterns of rounding-up tools has been replaced by a
revolving movement, which affords the advantage of the
worker being able to look at the wheel under treatment

TRIUMPH'

New Patent Rounding-Up Tool.

from all sides. For the fastening of the lower runner the
same improvement, as was lately introduced for the fixing
of the T-rest of the " Triumph" lathe has been employed,
viz., the socket is split and the ferrule with the lever
screw can be turned into any desired direction. The arbor
with the cutter revolves between two female centers of the
lathe, one of which bears a carrier pulley.

The cutter is adjusted by means of the vertical finger,
while the position of the wheel is regulated by the horizontal
finger. Both are easily removable in order to prevent
injury to the hands with their sharp points. The mode
of operation will no doubt be easily understood from
the above illustration. It is scarcely necessary to mention
that, being interchangeable, this new tool will accurately
fit any " Triumph " lathe previously acquired.

The tool will be supplied with 12 heads and 4 runners.
The usual kind of cutters can be employed.
# * #

We have just received from Mr. Sydenham, a new illus-
trated list of silver medals and badges, suitable for

TEE WATCHMAKER, JEWELLER AND SILVERSMITH.

[July 1, 1891.

cyclists, aD kinds of athletic sports, volunteering; etc.
It is interesting to note what a heraldry of its own each of
these are developing. The winged wheel seems to be
cegarded as the cyclist's emblem. All kinds of sports have

their own heraldry represented in some very cheap and
effective designs, all possessing snfficient artistic merit to
induce anyone to wear them, and look upon them as an
ornament in addition to the honor which they represent.
The badge illustrated above is now having a good time of
it, hut is only one of some hundreds.

Quei>T\oni> i&ef af fne d>ifjy cmcj <SiuifeU> o{?
"taonilon Gxaminafion in ©yv'afefi cmel
dfoeft matCing, eKprif 29>n, lg% for
conien fnree nourd) coere affocoecj for tne
eKrif&coerd).

Ordinary Grade.

1. — Give definitions of the following terms : — " Center
of gravity (mass-center)," "moment of a force about a
point," "cycloid." (25 marks.)

2. — Explain how the fusee adjustment should be rectified
supposing the mainspring to pull over, either (1) at the
top, (2) at the middle, or (3) at the lower turns of the
fusee. What force would a one-ounce weight on the
adjusting rod, three inches away from the center of motion,
represent at the great wheel teeth, supposing the wheel to
be 0-4 inches in radius ? (30.)

3. — Describe and illustrate with a rough sketch the
rocking bar form of keyless mechanism. (45.)

4.- — Give a brief description of some usual form of
" watchmaker's lathe," and your opinion as to its capa-
bilities. (30.)

5. — Roughly sketch and explain with reference to capil-
larity the forms given to a jewel hole, endstone, and pivot.
(30.)

6. — Compare the action during impulse of a "club"
tooth lever escape wheel with one of the ordinary form.
What are the advantages and disadvantages of the " club "
tooth ? (30.)

7. — Calculate the length of a l£-seconds pendulum, ;Ate
length of the seconds pendulum being taken at 39-14
inches. (25.)

8. — What is meant by a train of 16,200 ? If there be
84 teeth in the great wheel, a center pinion of 12, and 4
turns on the fusee, how long will the watch go ? (25.)

9. — Explain any methods you may be acquainted with of
regulating clocks from the dial. (25.)

10. — Explain, by the aid of a rough sketch, in what
respect the action of a high numbered wheel and pinion will
be preferable to a pair of lower numbers, the pitch circles
being the same. (25.)

Honors Grade.

1. — What is meant by (1) "modulus of elasticity," (2) by
" middle temperature error ? " (2S minis.)

2. — How do you account for the fact that the breaking of
a main-spring in a going barrel watch is often accompanied

with damage to the great wheel teeth and center pinion ?
Describe a contrivance for preventing this. (15.)

3. — Mention the successive operations in the production
of watch wheels by machinery, and roughly describe a form
of engine suitable for cutting the teeth of the wheels in
groups of fifty at a time after the wheels are "crossed out."
(82.)

4.- — Compare the "movable" and "fixed star" systems
of repeating work. Give a rough sketch in illustration. (45.)

5. — Calculate the length of the zinc tube in a zinc and
steel seconds compensating pendulum, the co-efficients of
expansion being for zinc -00017, and for steel -000064, for
10 degrees rise in temperature. (40.)

N.B. — The zinc tube rests upon the regulating nut,
which is four inches below the center of oscillation, and the
bob is suspended at its center, the center of the bob being
taken as the center of oscillation.

6. — Describe the characteristic features of some form of
" non-magnetisable " watch. (20.)

7. — Briefly indicate the means by which clocks are
" synchronised " by electricity. (32.)

8. — Give a general idea of the mechanism which causes
the hand of a " chronograph " to start, stop, and to return
to its starting-place, by successive pressures on the crown
piece. (35.)

9. — What is meant by "coil friction"? Compare a
tapered mainspring as used in a fusee watch, and its
action, with a "tapered" mainspring as sometimes used
in a going barrel watch and its action. (25.)

10. — The radius of gyration of a chronometer balance
being 0-04 of a foot, and its mass -0006, what is the
moment of inertia of the balance ? (28.)

(#Ffu;&iVa.ieiL #a^en'Tlon^ freeoriL

Watch-case Spring. — Josef PALLWEBER,Furtwangen,
Baden.

The combination of a watch-case with a pair of springs
D H, a lever F, acted upon by both of said springs, a pin
G, carried by the lever, and a lid engaged by the pin, sub-

stantially as specified. The combination, in a watch-case,
of spring D, having hook C, with stem A, that engages spring,
and with spring H, lever F, engaged by springs D H, pin
G on lever F, and a lid engaged by the pin, substantially
as specified.

Watch
Bedford.

Barrels. — J. Burr, 29, Commercial Road,

To prevent damage to the watch by
breakage of the main-spring, and to allow
removal of the barrel without displacing the
top-plate, the barrel / is made in one piece
with a bridge a screwed to the watch plate,
and the barrel arbor d is provided with
driving ratchet wheel and maintaining spring
as a going fusee.

Watch-Case. — Edward F. Heffernan, Toronto, On-
tario, Canada.
The combination, with the center of a watch-case, of a

July 1, 1891.]

THE WATCHMAKER, JEWELLER AND SILVERSMITH.

rim hinged to the center and having the back or bezel
connected to said rim by screw-threads formed on said
back or bezel and rim substantially as described. A
watch-case hinge formed by one or more pins pivoted
on the back, bezel or rim, and constructed to move longi-
tudinally in holes made in the center, substantially as and

for the purpose specified. In
a watch-case having its back
or bezel screwed to the center
by means of a screwed joint,
a rim connected to the back or
bezel and having a thread cut
on it to correspond with and
form a continuation of the
JLa, thread which forms a screw-
1 joint, in combination with a
hinge designed to connect the
screwed ring with the center, substantially as and for the
purpose specified. A rim B, having a thread b cut on it
to correspond with and form a continuation of the thread
n on the center A, and a hinge to connect it with the said
center A, in combination with a bezel or back D, having a
thread cut on it to engage with the threads a and b, sub-
stantially as and for the purpose specified.

APPLICATIONS FOR PATENTS.

8,633 —

8,754.
8,889.
9,157.
9,298.
8,846,
8,864.

8,922,
8,925,
9,019.
9,190,
9,386,
9,409.
9,441,
9,511.
9,546.

9,557.

9,587.

Charles Henry Mannon and . George Henry Eayner,

London, " Device for fastening scarf and other pins."

Dated 20th May, 1891.
Henry Swanbury, London, " Safety device for brooch

pins." Dated 22nd May, 1891.
■Ernst Gustav Hoffman, London, " Sohtaires, studs, and

similar fasteners." Dated 26th May, 1891.
■Thomas Valentine Ferguson, London, " Tell-tale appar-
atus for clocks." Dated 1st June, 1891.
Duncan Edmund Grant, London, " Watch and clock

calendar." Dated 2nd June, 1891.
•Eichard Allerton, London, "Brooch fastenings." Dated

25th May, 1891.
Joseph Henry Stewart and Herbert Ernest Smyth,

London, " Safety device for brooch pins." Dated 25th

May, 1891.
■Henry Smith Prentiss, London, " Electric clocks."

Dated 26th May, 1891.
Christen Eees Bonne, London, " Electric clocks or

timepieces." Dated 26th May, 1891.
Leopold Myers, London, " Combined paper knife and

magnifying glass." Dated 27th May, 1891.
Samuel John Davis, London, " Electric clock." Dated

1st June, 1891.
James Kendal, London, " Portrait dial watch." Dated

3rd June, 1891.
■George Henry Stephens, London, " Folding eye-glasses."

Dated 3rd June, 1891.
Samuel James Powell, London, " Safety brooch pins."

Dated 3rd June, 1891.
Arthur Eisen, London, " Sleeve-links." Dated 4th

June, 1891.
Edward Davies and British United Clock Company,

Limited, Birmingham, " Securing glass panels of clock

stands." Dated 5th June, 1891.
John Severin Johnson, London, " Pince-nez or double

eye-glasses." Dated 5th June, 1891.
Adolph Myers and Leopold Myers, Birmingham, "Com-
bined compasses and toy microscope." Dated 6th

June, 1891.

We regret to have to record the death of the chairman
of the Lancashire Watch Company, Mr. S. H. Hartley, of
Prescot, which occurred on the 11th ult. As is well known,
he was one of the originators of this company, and always
took great interest in matters connected with the watch-
making industry. He was also clerk to the Board of
Guardians, and was held in very high esteem by all who
knew him.

(let | efts.

Deeds of Arrangement.

Fletcher, William James, 11, Eoyal-avenue, Belfast, jeweler.
Trustee : John McCullough, Eoyal-avenue, Belfast. Assign-
ment in trust to secure payment of composition of 20s. in
the £. Filed May 20, 1891 ; unsecured liabilities £2,398
9s. 3d. ; estimated net assets, £4,246 3s. Id.

Gibbs, Eichard Everitt George, Bury St. Edmunds, watch-
maker and jeweler. Composition of 6s. in the £, payable
forthwith. Filed May 19 ; £1,311 18s. 4d.

Kahn, Charles (by trustee, under deed of assignment), 138 and
138a, Strand, W.C., jeweler and watchmaker. Be-assign-
ment by trustee of debtor's estate under deed of assignment,
etc., dated 26th and filed 30th July, 1889, debtor having
paid a composition of 7s. 6d. in the £ to creditors in full
discharge of their claim. Filed October 24, 1890.

Eose, George, 95, South-street,' Exeter, watchmaker and jeweler.
Trustee: Albert L. Honey, accountant, 23, Catherine-
street, Exeter. Secured creditors, £513 2s. 6d. Filed
May 4 ; liabilities, £452 Is. 3d. ; assets, £161 12s. 8d.

Bills of Sale.

Adams, William, 15, Pulteney-street, Barnsbury-road, Islington,
about to remove to 65, Eoderick-road, Mansfield-road,
Haverstock-hill, working jeweler. In favour of the Central
Advertising Corporation. Filed June 6. £30.

Gompertz, Michael (and wife), 11, Bow-road, E., commission
agent and traveller in jewelry and fancy articles. In
favour of Henry J. Thomas. Filed June 5. £40.

Marland, Caleb, 1, Booth-street, and 203, Stamford-street,
Ashton-under-Lyne, watchmaker. In favour of James
Piatt. Filed June 3. £ 31 10s.

Tritschler, Crescentia (spinster), 2, Athenaeum-street, and 16,
Churchill-street, Sunderland, jeweler and fancy dealer.
Trustee : Eobert A. Brown, C.A., Sunderland. Filed June 1 :
liabilities, £123 13s. Id. ; assets, £100.

Vaughan, Frederick George, 26, Gerrard-street, Islington,
electro-plater and gilder. In favour of Charles G. Lodge.
Filed June 23. £80.

Woolf, Henry, Church-villa, Gillott-road, Edgbaston, and 94,
Smallbrook-street, Birmingham, watch material manufac-
turer. In favour of Albert Eoe. Filed June 8. Settlement
in trust for wife, etc.

Bankruptcy Record.

Appleby, James (trading as Appleby and Co.,) 55, Frederick-
street, Birmingham, jeweler and general manufacturer.
First meeting : 25, Colmore-row, Birmingham, June 17.
Examination : C.C., Birmingham, June 25.

Beningfield, Arthur, 128 and 129, Cheapside, and The Lawn,
Eiverside, Maidenhead, commission agent and watchmaker.
Adjudication : June 16.

Blyth, Henry John, 13,, St. Nicholas-terrace, Caister-road, late
15, North Howard- street, Great Yarmouth, watchmaker.
Eeceiving Order and Adjudication: June 15. First meeting:
Official Eeceiver's, Norwich, June 27, at 12.30. Examination :
Town Hall, Great Yarmouth, July 13, at 11.

Botton, Alfred Charles, 15a, St. Botolph-street, Colchester,
jeweler. First meeting: 36, Princes-street, Ipswich,
June 12. Examination : Town Hall, Colchester, June 20.

David, Leon, 42, Hatton-garden, and 17, Lancaster-road, West
Norwood, diamond merchant. Trustee: L. Hasluck, C.A.,
17, Holborn-viaduct, E.C. Eeleased, April 29.

Edgcombe, James, 65, George-street, Plymouth, jeweler. First
meeting : 10, Athenaeum-terrace, Plymouth, June 5, at 2.30.
Examination: C.C., East Stonehouse, June 22, at 11.
Adjudication : May' 26.

Edwards, William Jones, Church-place, Penrhyndendraeth,
jeweler. Adjudication: May 16.

Hands, William Charles, Market-place, Norwich, jeweler and
watchmaker. Trustee: E. J. Abbott, C.A., 77, Colmore-row,
Birmingham. — Eeleased February 26.

Jefferson, John Edwin, and William Jefferson (trading as
Jefferson Bros.), 68, Low-street, Keighley; watchmakers
and jewelers. Eeceiving Order : June 4.

Leadbeater, John, 14, De*-by-street, Hulme, watchmaker. Ee-
ceiving Order and Adi'udication, June 12.

Marsh, Charles Henry Cromwell, 8, Belgrave-road, and 2, Five
Post-lane, Dover, watchmaker and jeweler. First meeting :

THE WATCHMAKER. JEWELLER AND SILVERSMITH.

[July 1, 1891.

Uidlor's Hotel. Ilolborn, May 29. at 11. Examination!
Guildhall, Canterbury, -111110 5, al L0:30.

Maktindm.k. William. Hi). High^street, Watford, jeweler. First
meeting: Official Receiver's, !>.">, Temple-chambers, Temple-
avenue, E.G., June 4, at 3. Examination : Court House,
St. Allian's, June "). at 12. Adjudication: May 22.

Rosenberg^ Esther. 162, St. Paul's-road, Canbnbury, wholesale
jeweler, wife of Moses Rosenberg (trading separate and
apart from her husband, having separate property and
separate assets). Examination : 34, Lincoln's Inn-fields,
June 23, at 12.30.

Williams, John Hood, High-street, Haverfordwest, watch-
maker and jeweler. Application for debtor's dischai'ge :
Temperance Hall, Pembroke Dock, July 16, at 11.30.

Dividends.
Bartlk. George. Scunthorpe, watchmaker. Proofs for intended

dividend by July 8. Trustee : Official Receiver, Hull.
GcABDNER, William Henry Buckley, 5, Russell-terrace, Old

Allesley-road, Coventry, watch manufacturer. Proofs for

intended dividend by June 26. Trustee : Official Receiver,

Coventry.
Murg.vtroyd, Frank, 2, Police-street, Brighouse, jeweler. First

and final dividend of 5s. ll^d. at Official Receiver's, Halifax,

June 6.
Sellars, John Henry, 1, Hall-gate, Doncaster, watchmaker.

First and final dividend of 4s. 5£d., Official Receiver's,

Sheffield, May 25.

Winding up of Public Companies.
Washington Diamond Mining Company, Limited. — A petition
for winding-up was presented on June 17 by Horatio
Frederick Barnett ; and is directed to be heard before the
Court on June 27. John M. Mitchell, 110, Cannon-street,
E.C., Solicitor.

Dissolutions of Partnership.
Gardner and Lyle, 53, St. Vincent-street, Glasgow, opticians.
February 28. By retiral of James Lyle. Debts by Thomas
Rankine Gardner, who continues under the style of Gardner
and Co.
Thompson and Sons, 83 and 85, South-street, Moor, Sheffield,
jewelers. June 1. Debts by John Thomas Thompson and
William Heathcote Thompson, who continue under the
same style.

No Concern of the Husband's.
Be Esther Rosenberg, wholesale jeweler, St. Paul's-road,
Canonbury, London. This bankrupt applied to Mr. Registrar
Linklater to pass her public examination upon accounts showing
debts unsecured £1,306, and assets £157. The bankrupt stated
that she had carried on business as a wholesale jeweler, her
husband being her manager. He was an undischarged bankrupt,
and had previously carried on business at the same address.
There was an agreement between herself and her husband that

he was to manage the business for her, draw bills, sign cheques,
etc. The business was not conducted by her solely for the purpose
of enabling her husband to trade in her name. — The Registrar
pointed out that the petition was disputed, and that the examina-
tion must be conducted as being her business. — In further
examination the bankrupt stated that some of the creditors
knew that she was carrying on this business. Her husband
traded as Moses Rosenberg, and she traded as E. Rosenberg and
Co. The principal creditors were aware that she was carrying on
business, and the circumstances under which it was being carried
on. — Mr. Pope : Which of the creditors was aware of it ? — The
bankrupt : Messrs. Cox, of Birmingham. — Mr. Le Voi : They are
the largest creditors. Their debt is £390. — The public examina-
tion was ordered to be concluded. It appears that upon the
refused application to transfer the proceedings to the Birmingham
Court, an affidavit to the Official Receiver was put in support,
to the effect that, of the total liabilities, £1,270 was due to
Birmingham creditors.

A Cool Bankrupt.
A meeting of the creditors of James Edgcombe, jeweler,
George-street, Plymouth, was held at the offices of the Official
Receiver (Mr. J. Greenway), Athenaeum-terrace, Plymouth.
Debtor returned his liabilities at £2,182 10s. 9d. — £2,182 owing
to his mother and 10s. 9d. to Mr. Jennings. The assets con-
sisted of stock of the nominal value of £2,500 expected to realize
£1,200. In reply to the Official Receiver, the bankrupt denied
that he had a pocketful of gold at the time the receiving order
was made — only a few shillings. Had no books showing the
amount of stock he had received. You have had stock to the
value of £5,000 ? — That is the selling price. Then in fifteen
months you have got rid of £2,500 worth of stock. Where is it ?
• — I can't have got rid of it if it is not there. A man seized a lot
of things, although I did not owe him a penny. You have
been pawning a lot of goods ? — One or two things. One
or two 1 — a lot : forty-seven rings. What sort are they ? —
A case of rings which I pawned to pay a debt. Is that the way
to do business ?--I had to pay the debt. The rings may be worth
£100. Although pawned for £25 ? — The profit would be about
one-third. Have you not been constantly taking things away? —
Only the goods of customers. How long have you been in
business ? — I don't know. About eleven years, I think. Father
lent me the money. I have not disposed of property except in
the regular way of business, but I have kept no cash-book since
my sister left me. Do you owe the National Provincial Bank
any money ? — -A little. Why is it not mentioned here ? — It is
guaranteed. I expect you will find plenty of others to whom
money is due ? — I don't think you will. It would be utterly
impossible for me to file an account of my sales for twelve
months. The stock represents all the property I have. Have
you not been betting? — No ; I can spend money better than that.
The Official Receiver : I think you have been spending money
a great deal worse than that. Debtor was allowed to pass at a
subsequent adjourned examination.

MANUFACTURER OF JEWELLERY

and Jewellers' Materials

OF ALL KINDS.

Repairs promptly

attended to.

"^^J^E^ "^ey hill2'

Hockley, BIRMINGHAM.

£api3a^i4 and <$tcc\ous

§>totlC DEALER

£§®

All work

75,

SPENCER STREET,

$0e

^atclpi^aker, ^cWcllcr

^il^crsix^itfy

Edited by W. J. LEWIS ABBOTT, F.G.i

Entered at Stationers' Hall.]

[Registered fjr Transmission Abroad.

Vol. XVII.— No. 2.]

AUGUST 1, 1891.

Subscription, 5s. I Post

per Annum. I Free.

fcingle Copies, 6d.

sKctior^ of f"]^e UraiLe.

purpose :

[EVER in the history of our country has the sub-
ject of Technical Education been so prominent,
or taken such practical forms as it is doing at
the present time, owing, firstly, to the Technical
Instructions Act of 1889, and the action by the
County Councils in the application of their
grants under the Local Taxation Act to this
and, secondly, to the action of various public
local institutions. At present the County Councils have
only made a beginning, but their action has just reached
that stage where it is indispensably necessary that someone
should come forward and look after the interests of our
trade. We hear grumbling on all sides at the dearth of
good skilful men, and we see daily large imports of work
corning from other countries, where the producers have
received better technical instruction than our men at home.
We see other countries excelling us, and fast supplanting
us with their goods in foreign markets, and industries
which ought to be amongst our staple ones gradually slip-
ping from our grasp. It is therefore necessary that we
should bestir ourselves, and put the machinery into motion
that will remedy all these evils, and prevent disaster in the
future. It is the old tale over again ; twenty-five years ago
scores of men with " nice little businesses " in Cler ken well
ridiculed the idea of technical instruction, and the develop-
ment of watchmaking machinery ; but what is the standing
of those voices to-day, where are those businesses, and how
were they able to compete with the improved methods ?

Another chance now awaits us, and the means are at
hand to raise our trade again beyond those of other nations.
The Fourth Annual Report of the National Association
for the Promotion of Technical and Secondary
Education has recently been published, winch gives
the position exactly, and which we would recommend to
everyone interested in the welfare of the trade. It will be
seen by a map there given, that most of the counties have
taken advantage of the provisions of the Act, and intend to
apply the whole of the new fund for educational purposes,

and by far the greater portion is for technical education.
But now comes the rub. Which trades are to benefit by this
technical education, what are the subjects that are to be
taught ? These are matters which will be decided by those
who take the greatest interest in the question. Within the
last year there has sprung up an Association
of organizing secretaries, representing various counties
and boroughs, twenty of which have paid organizing
secretaries ; and what we consider the Trade ought to do, is
to have its own representative on this body who would look
after its interest. A conference of these secretaries was
held last month, and the various questions of organization
were discussed. Up to the present these organizers have
been of two kinds : temporary organizers to inquire into
claims and applications, to visit every district in the county,
and to draw up a detail scheme resulting therefrom ; and
permanent secretaries to the Technical Instruction
Committees, charged with the work of carrying out the
schemes, and inspecting the instructions, either personally
or through the employment of experts. Now there are two
courses open to which this fund may be applied, which
will entirely rest on the recommendation of this association ;
either it will be applied to practical technical education,
such as would make a man a skilful workman, and trans-
form him from a mere machine to an inventive, thinking,
applying living being ; or, by giving a slight turn to the
definitions of the Act, the whole may drift into secondary
education — an object laudable enough in itself, but which
would do nothing to remedy the evils under which we now
suffer.

Of course in all this we are not depreciating the action
or efforts of local institutions. Few things could be more
pleasing than the report in another part of this journal,
or the last action of The Goldsmiths' Company in supplying
the New Technical and Recreative Institute at New Cross,
which was opened by the Prince of Wales last month.
This is an institution of which we may be justly proud, and
we hope every employee — and. for that matter employer too
— will avail himself of the opportunities it offers. From the
advance prospectus, the Institute appears to be based upon
somewhat the same lines as the Birkbeck and similar
institutions, but it has a far more extended curriculum. In

THE WATCHMAKER, JEWELLER AND SILVERSMITH.

[August 1, 1891.

addition to the usual commercial course of subjects, we
might mention as subjects to be taught in this excellent
Institution, Brass Finishing and Fitting; Chasing and
Repousse work ; Chemistry, Theoretical, Practical and
Laboratory work ; Design, Decorative and Ornamental,
specially applied to Gold and Silversmiths' work ; Draw-
ing, Freehand from Model, Cast, Antique and Life,
Geometric and Perspective; Engineering, Theoretical,
Practical, and Workshop; Goldsmiths' work, Theoretical,
Practical and Workshop ; Mathematics (higher) ;
Machine Drawing and Construction ; Mechanics, Applied
and Theoretical ; Manufacture of Enamels ; Metal Plate and
Zinc Working ; Metal Turning and Fitting ; Metallurgy,
Modelling from Cast and Life ; Painting, Oil and Water
Colors ; Pattern-making ; Photography ; Physics, Theoreti-
cal and Experimental ; Silversmiths' Work, Theoretical,
Practical and Workshop ; and Watchmaking. It will
thus be seen to what an extent the requirements of our
trade are met in this admirable institution. P>ut as we
remarked in connection with the Birmingham School, so
we say of this, it will not be complete until gems as
factors in design, &c, are recognised ; whole text books on
designs, the blendings and properties of color, exist with-
out a single reference to the colors of colors as exemplified
in gems, in the face of the fact that it must of necessity
follow that the more intimate a designer becomes with the
properties of his materials, the richer, newer, and more
pleasing must be his combinations and productions.

Jhe jRoyal J^aval Exhibition.
N our next issue we intend to give some detailed account
of this interesting exhibition, and in the meantime we
advise all our readers to find an opportunity of seeing it,
especially that part of the exhibition which relates to our
trade, as there is a great deal more to be seen than relics
of questionable genuineness.

Jhe j3upvmah jiu&r Mines.
t E regret we are unable to give the full details of the
(*ltx^ meeting held in connection with these mines, as
they are of special importance to the trade. Next month,
however, we purpose giving some special information on
the subject, as the results of the operations go to show
that rubies are about as rare as we have been led to think
they are, and even, perhaps, a little more so.

Communication with the JStars.
rnXCE more the question of communication with the
UJ planets is brought to the front by a French lady
leaving a sum of £4,000 to the French Academy of Sciences
for any person who should within ten years be able to
communicate with any planet or star, and receive back a
reply from it. Probably this has been an ideal in the old
lady's life, who was 91 when she died, as it will be remem-
bered that several times during the period of her existence
the question has been re-introduced. One method sug-
gested was to cut a huge trench or canal in the flattest
place to be found, which should be a colossal diagram of
the well known proposition in Euclid, the square on the
base plus the square upon the perpendicular equals the
square upon the hypotenuse ; to fill the trench with, say,
naphtha or petroleum and set it on fire, and wait and see
if any reply was made, as the diagram would clearly show
itself to be the work of intelligent beings. And if the
dwellers in our sister planets had progressed at all in
civilisation they would be sure to recognise the demonstra-
tion of this fundamental law.

Ifte "banccu&fure @\f/afc?i Csompan^.

'HE first excursion of the employees of the tool
department of the above Company was held
last month at Blackpool. The proceedings
commenced by breakfast at the Palatine Hotel,
Mr. Blaiklock in the chair. The Chairman,
regretting the absence of Mr. Hewitt, said his
first duty was to propose the toast, ' ' Success
to the Lancashire Watch Company, and the
health of the managing director, Mr. T. P. Hewitt." The
toast was heartily drunk. In continuation, he said he was
glad to be with them on their first beanfeast, and he hoped
it was a happy augury of many more to follow. He alluded
to the watch factory in striking out a path for itself in the
manufacture of watch movements, in order to compete with
America. They had with them that day one of their
American cousins, whom, he was sure, they all welcomed.
He hoped the day was not far distant when they should
have reached the same degree of mechanical skill as that
of the Americans. Nay, it was their duty to try and beat
their cousins across the Atlantic. It was their duty to help
the Lancashire Watch Company by doing what they could
in their respective spheres, because by helping the company
they were helping themselves to prosperity — (cheers) — and
when the time came that the company was enabled to pay
higher dividends he believed, as a natural result, it would
follow that the employees would enjoy a higher state of
prosperity. He hoped they would all heartily drink to the
health and prosperity of the Lancashire Watch Company.
The Chairman next proposed the toast, " Success to the
Amalgamated Society of Engineers," which was responded
to by Mr. J. L. Layland. The company then proceeded
to inspect the various places of interest in the town, making
a very enjoyable day of it,

dio^enfY^ ©y/afeR-movemen? (©ornpctnv,

N our last issue we recorded the annual meet-
ing of this company, when the very advis-
able course was proposed of increasing the
trifling capital with which it has been
worked up to the present. A special meeting
was held about three weeks after to pass the
resolution, Mr. S. Yeomans in the chair, who expressed
himself confident of the success which would follow ; ho
also informed those present that a new price list had been
drawn up between the company and the Prescot Company,
which list would be adhered to by all parties.

Since this meeting Mr. Yeomans has been on the Con-
tinent examining the various methods employed there, an
epitome of which he gave at the subsequent confirmatory
meeting of the shareholders of the company. He said ho
had been over several factories, and had found that the
principal ones were working on the same ' lines as those
adopted by the directors of their company. They had
thrown aside the old Swiss machinery, and were going in
largely for American machinery, believing that there was
no comparison between the two systems. It appeared to
him that the only way in which Coventry manufacturers
could hope to maintain their hold on the trade was by
adopting the new method more extensively. He considered
that this company would be of very great assistance in this
respect, and that its formation was a step in the right
direction. Manufacturers by using the movements turned
out by this company would not have to make the whole
watch throughout, but would, in due course, have the
movement supplied to them with the first half done, so
that manufacturers would only have to procure plant for
the completion of the watch. The resolution as to the .
issue of preference shares was agreed to.

August 1, 1891.

TIIK WATCHMAKER. JEWELLER AND SILVERSMITH.

Gold Medal.

DIPLOMA :

MELBOURNE

1880-81.

BAUME&CO.

(ESTABLISHED 18^4.)

21, HATTON GARDEN, LONDON ;

SWITZERLAND AND COVENTRY.

Watch Manufacturers.

Uold Mn.lal.

DIPLOMA : \ a
MELBOURNE,
1880-81.

London, 1862.

Berne, 1357.

EVe^y deseiuption of Otfdinapy, pine, and Complicated LUatehes, t^epeateirs,

Chronographs, etc.

Era.gp.isli and S^wiss Chronometers.

ENGLISH AND SWISS Watches with Kew A Certificates.

IDNBINES IEYEBS,

MADE ON THE GAUGED AND INTERCHANGEABLE PRINCIPLE.
All parts of Movements supplied entirely finished.

LONGINES CHRONOGRAPHS, WITH
MINUTE RECKONERS.

The Longines Levers were awarded the
GRAND PRIX (Highest possible award), at
the Paris Exhibition, 1889.

BAUME & Co., 21, Hatton Garden, London.

6RIMSHAW <% BAXTER,

J&taUrs in ~^Watzb antr miatk ^alurV Wools, ^tha an& (l^afmals,

Watch Glasses, Main Springs, Hands, &c.

*^p0F\TEF\,s 0F A/^bk + gaN- FKeHgH- ANb QSK/aaN ekeoK^-

Sole Ulholesale Agents fop Ezra K^elley's U^ateh and Cloek Oils.

OUR NEW ILLUSTRATED CATALOGUE OF TOOLS, TURNS, LATHES, &c,

SENT FREE ON APPLICATION.

Price Lists of Clocks arid Watches will be forwarded free on presentation of Business Card.

jfio. 33 & 35, Qosuxell l?oad, Cler*kenuaell, liondon, E G.

IMPORTANT NOTICE TO THE TRADE.

BIS, OI*!"^ "ESS, CXjOCISISS, Cikl^SJEEa^LBSSilLS, BI^lI^S, &>pm

Repaired, parts made, and renovated eqral to new; all work done in the lame process as in Paris. Repairs in general, Bronzing, Gilding
Plating, Brassing, and Lacquering in all its branches. Estimates submitted for Town and Country Stock Work. Carriage Clocks polished

and matt gilt.

CHEAPEST HOUSE IN THE TRADE FOR RENOVATING ENGLISH AND ERENCH DIALS
STATUARY AND INSCRIPTIONS RENOVATED BY CONTRACT.

Chnrch Lights, Gaseliers, Electric and Lamp Fitting Brackets, Pook Rests, Communion Plate, &c, re-lacquered, gilt, or plated. Experienced

men sent for removing and fixing same. Composition Bronzes can be made by our Colours to look equal to real Works of Art. The New French

Florentine Barbedienne, Egyptian Green, Vert Antique, and Empire Bronzes. Specialities.

BUHL WORK REPAIRED AND RESTORED EQUAL TO NEW.

ESTABLISHED LONDON AND PARIS, 1873.

11, ST, JOHN STREET ROAD, CLERKENWELL, LONDON.

THE WATCHMAKER, JEWELLER AND SILVERSMITH.

August 1, 1891.

Telephone No. 4085. Telegraphic Address: SETTERS, BIRMINGHAM. Estimates Free.

GINDER BROS.,

ESTABLISHED 1871.

Q, 1^, iTyariufecfurfnq J ewelle/ps, kJiarnond. iTjeurjfcvs, (^©leLsrnnTJs

m ^SBM£^*^E^~ Silversmiths, CQedallisits,

masonic Jewellers. Designs for Jewels forwarded on application. Stock Coods reset in most Modern and]Artistic Style. Best Attention
given in Jobbing and Approbation departments. Heraldic and Seal Engravers, Gilders and Platers.

SINGLE STONE DIAMOND EARRINGS, ALSO DIAMOND STARS, CRESCENTS, AND PENDANTS KEPT IN STOCK. NEW DESIGNS CONTINUALLY PRODUCED.

47, FREDERICK STREET, BIRMINGHAM.

MANUFACTURERS OF BRIGHT AND COLOURED

GOLD CHAINS, for Home and Shipping Trades.
CUJ*B B^RCEHETS Rfit) SMOOCHES,

IN GREAT VARIETY.

Telegraphic Address: "QUALITY, /SOf^^E ^ ' — " j^LlbtttS,

BIRMINGHAM." -^T^^C 1 1J ^^ ^ ^ Necklets 8t Liadies' Alberts

OF NEW AND ATTRACTIVE DESIGNS ALWAYS IN STOCK.
jiAIiH-mflr^ED J^EEPEt* fyrJGS

IN EVERY VARIETY AND QUALITY. ILLUSTRATED CATALOGUES AND PRICE LISTS ON APPLICATION.

11S1IT FLJLCEj BlRHIIGHAHi

London Address: 60, HATTON GARDEN.

THE

((

CASTLE"
LINK.

PATENTED.

THE "CASTLE'' LINK

IS INSTANTLY INSERTED OR REMOVED.
IS ENTIRELY SELF-ADJUSTING.
DOES NOT CREASE THE CUFF.
DOES NOT WEAR THE BUTTON HOLE.
©3= HAS NO SPRINGS OR COMPLICATED

PARTS TO GET OUT OF ORDER.

T. WALTER JONES,

REG.

.patentee anir
%ote ^taxmiactntzv,
48-5U, HYLTON STREET, BIRMINGHAM.

Telegraphic Address : "STUDS, BIRMINGHAM." ONLY WHOLESALE HOUSES SUPPLIED.

IN CUFF.
MADE IN

GOLD, SILVER,
GOLD PLATE, PEARL,

GOLD CASED,
NICKEL SILVER, &c.

August 1,1891.]

THE WATCHMAKER, JEWELLER AND SILVERSMITH.

jfotes /Ibout Jou/9.

general state of trade during the past
month has been a decided improve-
ment upon last, assisted probably by
the much better weather. There is no
disputing the fact that whatever moves
the Court moves trade, and so the German
Emperor's visit has stimulated trade in many
directions. The various receptions, &c, given necessarily
called forth a grand display of jewelry, which in some
cases was new for the occasion, and may or may
not be the pioneer of new fashions; while most of the
display consisted of reappearances of well-known and
familiar faces, which are usually excluded from daylight.
Many a " plate chest " was removed temporarily from " the
well " in which it had been for a long time deposited, and
where it has now gone back again. It might not be con-
sidered as adding to the safety of their places of deposit to
publish the places where most of them are kept, although
we should like to do so. We know one place specially
constructed for their reception, where the chests are
numbered by hundreds, many containing priceless historic
treasures. Here they lie buried, unknown to all save a
few, only being moved about by the machinery expressly
constructed for the purpose.

ifc * *

The display of jewels made by the Court lately
Tiie late reminds one of the stimulus given in that
"ieweL.0 direction by the gentleman who styles himself

the King of Kings, on his first visit to this
country. Since then there have been more diamonds
added to the world's stock than previously existed, so that
it is only natural that the late exhibition should have
rivalled the former. There have been two noteworthy
displays ; the one at the Opera House and the other at the
State Ball given by Her Majesty. In the former case the
Queen led the way in diamond collet necklaces, and was
followed by the larger portion of the ladies present. The
Princess of Wales was adorned with a diamond collet collar,
the beauty of which is known to everyone through her
portrait, if by nothing else. Occasionally could be seen
magnificent tiaras and dog-collars en suite ; the grand dis-
play of the Hon. Mrs. Carrington being of rosebud and
leaf design. Almost all the ladies wore tiaras ; that of the
German Empress being of great beauty and size, composed
of diamonds and large pear-shape pearls. In most of the
other instances the tiaras were wholly composed of
diamonds. Frequently very fine strings of pearls were
employed, either by themselves or in addition to the
diamond necklace. The Princess of Wales wore several
loose strings of diamonds and pearls alternately. In very
many instances the lace and other trimmings were caught
up with diamonds, from whose snug folds they shot out
their fiery splendour. Immense sprays were employed, and
several ladies had their bodices entirely covered with
diamonds. Apparently the dresses, as a whole, were made
subservient to the display of the jewels to their best
advantage ; and when colored stones were employed, white
satin was almost invariably resorted to, as exemplified by
the German Empress and Lady Carrington, whose sapphire
necklaces were the best specimens of colored stones present.
At the State Ball, in accordance with the known taste
of Her Majesty, diamonds and black preponderated. The
display, however, was in no way inferior to that at the
Opera House, and in many respects even excelled it.

Convertible tiaras and necklaces are " all the

worn in §° " Jus^ now> an<^ some magnificent specimens

Society, are to be seen, not only in diamond and pearl,

and diamond and colored stone, but in fine half

pearl and diamond work. The silver wedding present of the

Princess Christian is a diamond and pearl convertible

tiara and necklace.

Long sprays down the front of the dress, or as head
ornaments, are still the rage. These are chiefly orchids,
or flowers of pentangular or hexangular symmetry ; the
latter capable of being worn singly, as were stars, either as
hair-pins, or by more matronly dames, in threes or fives,
as back combs or tiaras. Although diamonds are very
great favorites, colored stones are certainly far more
noticeable, and more inquired after than has been the case
for a long time.

# * #

In consequence of the last mentioned fact fine
Wcoh(i-cd0,'c°k)re^ s*ones are much sought after, and
stones, very difficult to obtain, whilst the prices asked
for anything fine are almost incredible. Two
years ago, when the Burmah Ruby Mines were thought to
be of sufficient importance to make their acquisition a
question for Government consideration, it was believed
that rubies of unheard-of size and beauty would soon be
rolling into the market. But with the anything but satis-
factory returns of this enterprise, people have got to fully
realise that rubies are likely to remain as scarce as ever ;
and whatever little spurt the Burmah Mines might at any
time make, it is questionable whether they would have
much effect upon the price. So far as the present and
future of rubies are concerned, no better result could
possibly have followed the recent mining, for had the first
efforts been rewarded with anything like success, it cannot
be doubted that the price of rubies would have suffered
materially. But as it is, when all the skill of modern
mining engineering and machinery has failed to add to the
production of the gem of gems to a greater extent than
two thousand rupees a month, people have come to believe
in the rarity and value of fine rubies more firmly than ever,
and more than could have been the case under any other
circumstances.

* * *

We presume that all our readers will be glad
The rord to hear that Her Majesty has been pleased to
Baronet! confer upon the Lord Mayor a Baronetcy of the

United Kingdom. Whatever may be the value
of that distinction in the eyes of some of us, considering
how easily it has in many cases been obtained, it, at any
rate, marks the appreciation of the Sovereign, who, had
she known more of the history of the Lord Mayor, would
not have required a visit of the German Emperor to prompt
her expression of appreciation of his actions. And although,
from party reasons, some people have thought fit to attack
him, by the great majority, and particularly by the trade
to whom he is best known, his many sterling qualities are
fully appreciated. By none is he more appreciated than
by those connected with the charities of our trade. Fre-
quently when men rise to high dignities they forget their
former surroundings, but not so with Sir Joseph Savory :
the little charities of the back neighbourhoods of Clerken-
well were not beneath him, nor the welfare of the poor
worn-out workman beyond him ; but, as soon as he rose to
greater influence, he nobly employed it in every legitimate
way — including the help of his own purse — to assist the
various institutions in our trade.

Messes. Hancock have this year obtained the
i iiiiitAVii|>! or(ler f°r the Royal Hunt Cup, a piece of work

which should always be viewed by all in the
trade who can find the opportunity. Usually the firm
exhibit their large pieces in one of the windows. This

TIIE WATCHMAKER, JEWELLER AND SILVERSMITH

[August 1, 189

rear it is worth about £1,000, and stands about 28in
high, the base being about 27in. by 20in. The design is
by Mr. ('. B. Birch, A.R.A., and represents two deej
(< urns elephas) in an often pictured and witnessed attitude
of fighting, with a lady deer watching the affray from
behind a hawthorn tree. Altogether it reminds us of one
which was made a lew years ago by Messrs. Hunt and
Roskell for the same trophy, which probably is the finest
struggle- ever modelled. The expression of pain in the
face of the vanquished animal, into whose neck the tine
of his rival's antler lias entered, is so lifelike that one
almost thinks it is real.

There was a time when very little indeed was
wiudo™! exhibited in Bond-street windows, but that

time has gone by. Even the grand old classic
front of Messrs. Hunt and Roskell has been rejuvenated,
and some of the finest things shown may now be seen in
it. Nor is it thought to be beyond the dignity of the Bond-
street jeweler to expose any novelties he has, alike to the
plagiarist trade and the public. The late exhibition in the
window of Messrs. Henry Lewis, of pearls in situ, with the
mollusc that produced them, probably brought forth more
press notices than anything done by any other member of
the trade during the same period. A seven-dial calendar
also attracted a great deal of attention in the same window,
and was rewarded by Royal patronage.

One could not help admiring the vigor of the
",B^t1J§-ilt.ene'VVT blood lately introduced into the old firm

of Messrs. Mappin Bros., in connection with
the gold casket for the German Emperor. Of course such
things are objectively and subjectively " Ads.," but it
frequently happens that these things have to be "rushed,"
and that they are only finished perhaps a day or two before
they have to be delivered ; consequently there is not much
time for exhibition. Fully appreciating this, the above
company had a large ticket (gold incised letters on a dark
ground) placed in the centre of the window, informing the
public that the casket was in course of manufacture ; and
so the best was made of the advertisement. We have
knowTn several hundred pounds lost over these public
presentations, though not exactly by these caskets, as the
price of them usuaUy is not much more than £100. Some-
times, of course, this figure is greatly exceeded, as for
example in the case of the casket presented to the
Emperor of Russia, which was about the finest specimen
ever turned out.

* TS- -K"

This casket, being one of the most elaborate of
Kaiser'* ^is class of production, deserves some special
Casket, description. Differing from most of its fellows,

the inspiration for its conception has been
drawn from the Gothic, and might at first sight be taken
for a photograph of some piece of the Guildhall, so rigidly
throughout has the pointed Gothic been adhered to, thereby
avoiding those mixtures of fish, flesh, and fowl which are
sometimes produced in bringing together objects widely
disconnected from each other. It is transversely parallel,
with re-entering and rounded ends. On one side in the
centre are the Imperial German Arms, on either side of
which is a panel representing Fame and Justice respectively.
On the opposite side is the inscription, and on the two
adjoining panels, divided by pilasters, are representations of
Commerce and Prosperity. The two end panels represent
historical events connecting the two Countries, England
and Germany. The lid rises in a well-proportioned inverted
curve, the four panels containing views of main public
buildings of the City. This is surmounted by a figure which
may be new to many — we are hardly sure of her name —
but she represents London ■ at first sight she might be

mistaken for Britannia, as she sits in a similar pose to that
usually given to that goddess, holding her left hand upon a
shield, not the Union Jack, but the City shield, and instead
of having to balance herself on the thin edge of the shield
shs is accommodated with a high-back seat with a bale of
merchandise behind it. In her right hand she holds the
caducens of Mercury, and further, the helmet is replaced
by a winged crown ; in short, the lower and brutal passions
of war are replaced by commerce and commercial inter-
course, which now conquer and constitute the world.
Around the upper mouldings of the body of the casket is a
floriated border, the City arms occupying a central position
over the Imperial Arms, and a German Eagle at each end,
and over each of the end pilasters of the front. Around
the base are the arms of the various German States, the
whole being supported upon " open arches." At each end
of the casket sits the well-known City Griffin holding a
shield bearing the Arms of London . This rests on a plinth
covered with blue velvet with a silver-gilt border, carrying
an inscription, which rests again upon an ordinary velvet
plinth-base. The whole of the casket is in 18-carat gold,

and the
enamels,

whole of the heraldry carried out faithfully in

Sl>ri£ul)fi (Horofogieaf ^ru&Citufe.

\| /HE annual meeting of members of the British Horo-
e)Jfe logical Institute was held on Tuesday, July 21st, at the
Horological Institute, Northampton-square, Clerken-
well, Mr. Daniel Buckney, vice-president, in the chair. The
report for the year, which was submitted by Mr. F. J.
Britten (secretary), stated that so far as the financial con-
dition of the institute was concerned, its progress had been
satisfactory. During the year there had been added to the
institute twenty members and two associates, and the
institute now numbered 403 members and. fourteen asso-
ciates. The Chairman, in moving the adoption of the
report, said with the exception of the loss of the City and
Guilds' grant, the statement was satisfactory. Mr. Henry
Ganney seconded the motion, winch was agreed to^ Lord
Grimthorpe was elected president, and the vice-presidents
were Messrs. Daniel Buckney, Charles Dunn, Thomas
Hewitt, John Jones, F.R.G.S., and John Tripplin, F.R.A.S.
Mr. Thomas Mercer was elected treasurer, and Mr. F. J.
Britten, secretary.

New Discovery or Opals. — Some very fine opals have
recently been discovered in White Cliffs, about fifty miles
north of Wilcannia, in a formation corresponding with the
Desert Sandstone of Queensland, through which it occurs
as a cementing infiltration, replacing calcaeous and other
organic remains, so that casts of shells and wood are found
also in this locality. Mr. Wollaston exhibited several of
these opal fossils at the late Crystal Palace exhibition, but
could not be induced to part with them ; but, now they
have turned up in another locality, they will not be such
curiosities.

We regret to have to announce the death of a veteran
clockmaker, Mr. E. T. Loseby, of Leicester, whose name
is so well known through the trade in connection with the
celebrated clock at Coventry, to whose performance we have
often alluded. He had during the latter years of his life
been engaged in constructing a clock for Leicester, which,
unfortunately, is left unfinished. Despite the fact that he
was never a robust man, he attained the age of seventy-
three. Nor were instruments of precision in horology the
only objects of his skill ; he constructed a most accurate
barometer which will most probably be brought before the
public. He also possessed some astronomical skill, and
was able to take time from the celestial orbs, by which he
checked the results of his timekeepers.

August 1. 1891.]

THE WATCHMAKER, JEWELLER AND SILVERSMITH.

Is (^©uneil ©f State;

OF THE CANTON OF NEUCHATEL (SWITZERLAND),

Upon the Report of the Observatory just issued has awarded

Messrs. STAUFFER, SON & C°'s

(Swiss firm:)

The FIRST PRIZE and HONOURS

For the highest results just obtained by a Watch at the Observatory

of Neuchatel, BEATING ALL RECORDS.

Stauffer, Son & Co.,

13, CHARTERHOUSE STREET, Holborn, LONDON,

And CHAUX-DE-FONDS, SWITZERLAND.

MAKERS OF ALL KINDS OF WATCHES.

SWINDEN & SONS

(ESTABLISHED 1825),

^3a/tc4Y

oot> • and • ^$afozA<at$.

PRICE LIST on receipt of Business Card.

27, 28 & 29, TEMPLE STREET, BIRMINGHAM.

MANUFACTURER OF

Badges of Every Description.
EIE & SEAL ENGRAVING-

Rings, etc., for Sealing.

CARA1 and INITIAL
PUNCHES.

Cljciks. labels, tit.

a. fenwick (;-;rr;;«f)

15, RUCUSTA STREET, BlRmiHCHHOQ.

SOLDERING BLOCKS OF

COMPRESSED CHARCOAL,

PRACTICALLY INDESTRUCTIBLE.
FOR JEWELLERS' BLOW-PIPE USE.

Sizes in Stock 5 in. by 2 \ in. by 1 in., 7/" per dozen ; Qh in.

by 1 in. by 1 in., 4/- per dozen. Samples of each size sent Post

free for 1/3. Stamps or P.O.O.

PURE ACIDS, GOLD SOLUTIONS, SILVER SOLUTIONS,
ALUM, BORAX, SALTPETRE, etc.

:f:r,ioes onsr .a. :p :p x. i c -a.t ion.

PHILIP HARRIS & CO., Ltd.,
WLtyoUzak €\fsmxsts,

144 & 146, EDMUND STREET, BIRMINGHAM.

TIIE WATCHMAKER, JEWELLER AND SILVERSMITH.

[August 1, 1891.

BOTWRIGHT and GREY,

.ate A. H. BOTWRIGHT.) ^'^ I2?V Z^53^ s^^ ^^V (Established 1865.)

Manufacturing Jfj&nhr MISSm- Opticians,

WHOLESALE AND

FOR EXPORTATION ONLY.

MAKERS OF EVERY DESCRIPTION OF SPECTACLES AND FOLDERS, IN STEEL, SHELL, GOLD, SILVER AND HORN ; SOLID, NICKEL, GERMAN SILVER, fie, AT THE LOWEST POSSIBLE PRICES

MASON'S IMPROVED OPTOMETER, REGISTERED: Price 17/6 each, net. Manufactured only by ourselves.

This instrument, while saving time and trouble in testing accurately, denotes the proper strength glasses required by persons suffering from
long, short, or old sight, and is adnrtted by Scientists to be one of the best instruments in use for measuring the loss of power of the eye. Full

and complete instructions with each.
REPAIRS, OP EVERY DESCRIPTION, IN EVERY CASE WE EXECUTE AND SEND BACK BY RETURN POST.

Oculists' and Hospital Prescriptions prepared. Sphero Cylinders and Prisms worked to order, and in every case by return mail

U * WE INVITE INSPECTION OF OUR LARGE STOCK. ^ ^Bn. II I II

4bi

«UF=

FIELD GLASSES

(In variety of Patterns.

READING GLASSES

(All Sizes.)

TELESCOPES

(All Sizes.)

EXTRA POWER FIELD

GLASSES.

Best English Clinical Thermometers, with or without Kew Certificates, 22s. per dozen ; Certificates, 13s. per dozen extra.

13, SPENCER ST., CLER^ENWELL, LONDON.

Established 1819.

WTL'-IPUTflM ^"n-116 WOI^KS, 1 FATTORINI & SONS'
YAUuN I UlHj Blf^MIJMGH/rM.

MEDALS, BADGES, MASONIC JEWELS,

LISTS FREE.

St. John's "^SForks,

92, CLERKENWELL KOAD,

f ontron, <B.«.

T. T. STURTEVANT,

6olb, W\\\m ant) $lirkil
fUatrr,
|L Electro-Plate Manufacturer.

Trice list
for

Re plating p>poon,s, porUs, Jea 5; Coffee pierViees, pSalv'ers,
Dishes 3( Coders, Cruet £>lan,ds, S;e., 2(e.

.ju

NEW PATENT

ECTRIC ALARUM

SEND FOR

The

Cheapest

Wholesale

House in the

Country for

High-class

WflLTHHm

The only Electric Alarum in the
world that can be carried from
room to room without derange-
ment. There is no fixing of
wires, and it can be placed
anywhere like an ordinary
Carriage Clock. Will not / l>S^'
stop ringing until you
get up and turn off
the switch.

RETAIL PRICE

35/-

Dry Battery
can be sent
to any part
of the
World.

The Trade supplied
at the Lowest

WHOLESALE

Finest Vienna Regulators

The Best in the Trade, delivered Car-
riage Free from the factory direct.
New Designs in Marble, Onyx, and
other Clocks. ^

&wKKI: BRADFORD.

August 1, 1891.]

THE WATCHMAKER, JEWELLER AND SILVERSMITH.

(By Vaalite.)

N my last I pointed out the probable
difficulty Mr. Wessels would experience in
getting tlie rushers off the mine, despite
the decision of the Courts. The dilly-
dallying policy of the Government to
some extent encouraged them to main-
tain their position. But subsequently
a police-officer was sent to warn them
to depart ; he was met in the same
quiet friendly manner by the rushers,
who informed him they should do no-
thing until they had had the advice of their Association; and
the advice this body afterwards gave was for the men to
remain. A number of them were consequently summoned,
and, after being lectured by the magistrate, and promising
not to trespass again, were discharged. This only served
to encourage the others, who remained resolute, and
further meetings of the Association advised the men to
remain on the mine. Seeing the law so disregarded, how-
ever, the authorities had others apprehended ; and on
arriving at the police-station it was felt necessary to show
the power of the authorities by refusing bail. But diffi-
culties and complications are not at an end even
if these men had been punished and others prevented
from going on. Some of the old complications in
the form of rival claimants are being renewed. And,
further, an order was made in Court that all diamonds found
should be carefully kept account of, so that when the
ultimate decision of the authorities was proclaimed, no one
should be wronged. But when the rushers applied for
permits to sell, they were absolutely refused ; so that the
whole of the finds had to go through the I.D.B.'s, and that
the quantity was very large there can be no doubt, as I
know men who were absolutely penniless when they
started, but who kept a dozen of Kaffirs at work on the
new mine, whom they had to pay at least fifteen shillings
a week, and had to find cash for them too every week, or
else not one of them would have continued work. It is
therefore certain that the stuff was sold somehow or some-
where. What is to become of the mine is still a mystery. The
great popular feeling seems' to be that it ought to be thrown
open, and Sir Thomas Upington has given notice of his
intention to ask the Government to make inquiry regarding
the opening of the mine. But past experience has shown
that small claim-holders cannot work a mine long, or else
it would never have been necessary to call the De Beers
amalgamation into existence. There are, however, many
facts to which we cannot afford to shut our eyes. One is
that, despite the Wesselton finds, or the finds in other
localities — about which I shall say something presently —
the average price of diamonds was higher last year than it
has been for a number of years. In the Kimberley division
there were produced last year 2,415,655-J carats,
which realised £'3,758,944, or over 31s. a carat, and this
despite the output of other localities ; the North East
Bultfontein producing sometimes nearly 2,000 carats a
week, for winch, however, it is necessary to wash about
12,000 loads of material. I do not say they are washing
this amount every week ; last week they only washed 5,000
loads, which yielded 1,050 carats, which you will see are
results not half so good as those claimed for the Wesselton,
in which they have now reached a depth of 20 feet. Another
diamond locality that is making quite a noise just now is
in the Transvaal, about ninety miles from Kimberley, in the
small village of Christiana, where some 70 or 80 prospectors
are at work, and finding stones up to 14 carats each. The
samples of diamonds which have been sent in from there

are good enough to cause the formation of several syndi-
cates, who are ordering and sending up the necessary
machinery. I also hear some good accounts from the St.
Augustine, which you are probably aware lies just off the
main diamond mines ; so that the vicissitudes of this mine
have probably taken another turn for the better, which will
be no more than some of its plucky adherents deserve. Of
course there is no reason why the ground should not be as
rich as in the other four mines, and the last information
states they are now in good blue ground, altogether better
and softer than that with which they have had to be satis-
fied for some time past. I might say that the formation of the
pipe in this mine is somewhat different from all the other
mines, for whereas in the other instance the pipe comes up '
with practically vertical walls, the whole of the interior
— with one exception, that of the " snake-rock " — is
solid blue ; in this mine it is more in veins and pockets, and
appears more like ordinary vein stuff than is the case in the
other mines, so that frequently when they get on to a good
piece of blue it either dips or dies out.

The Jagersfontein still keeps producing ; the fineness of
these stones are too well known to require pointing out ;
suffice to remark that the term has become an expression
for ideal stones. During May they were able to turn out
nearly eight thousand carats, which averaged thirty-two
shillings a carat ; but eight thousand carats of rough would
not represent a very large portion of the stones that come
into the market under the name of " Yargus."

The Cyrius Mine, of which I spoke in my last, is going
on very promisingly ; they are now working at a depth of
fifty feet, and are more than satisfied with the results, the
washings so far having proved it to be a very rich mine.

But, despite all this, facts are being brought forward
which show unmistakably that there is a general fall in
the value of property and obtainable rents, and that the
district is certainly not in a flourishing condition.

Things at the New Gordon Mine are progressing very
favourably. I think I sent you word of the lawsuit between
the Gordon Company and the great De Beers, and its settle-
ment ; of the formation of the new company, and also of the
arrival of Messrs. Lockhart & McClellan, who decided upon
their methods of operation, and in the short space of time
they have been at work they have obtained over 6,000
carats of diamonds. They have sunk a shaft over 300 feet,
and hope to carry it down another 300, which they expect
to yield 200,000 loads of blue. The new company has been
registered here, and by cable we learn it has also been
registered in London, and a very successful meeting beld
under the presidency of Sir Robert Harding.

In reply to the questions asked by Mr. Picton upon the
hall-marking question, Sir M. Hicks-Beach said the
matter was now under the consideration of the Standards De-
partment of the Board of Trade, but he could make no
promise as to presenting any report on the subject, or
introducing a Bill for the abolition of compulsory hall-
marking. He doubted if such a measure would be accept-
able to the trade.

The same old trick. One Shoemacher, a jeweler of
Brussels, was induced to take jewelry valued at about
£8,000 to a house, and to entrust it to a manservant to
show to his mistress. The property disappeared, together
with the three members of the gang by whom the jeweler
had been duped, and whom the police have traced to
Holland.

A dinner, of a character that does not often occur, was
celebrated at Kroll's Hotel, Minories, on the occasion of
the wedding of Mr. Leorenzen, head of the firm of
Johannsen & Co., the well-known chronometer makers ;
amongst those present being Messrs. Abbot, Burch, Bird,
Claxton, Heyes, King, Marshall T. Travers, &c

THE WATCHMAKER JEWELLER AND SILVERSMITH.

[August 1, 1891.

Watch and Block Making.

(Continued from page 7.)

ehn&coen*) a.ncj HoteS to Quej&flor^ *S>et at ffte

C^ito/ anc| Sjuifc|iS> o{? IsoneLoq (institute

Gxami nations.

By I. Herrmann,
Director of the Polytechnic School of Watch and Clock Making.

(II.) — Advanced Paper, 1890.
UESTION (6).— Show by a sketch (a) the
usual forms of teeth and pallets in the
Graham dead beat escapement, (b) Why
is it preferable for use in the regulator
clocks ?

Answer. — First part («) by following
sketch.

(&) — It is preferable to any other form of frictional rest
escapement [see (11) in (I.)] because there is a minimum
disturbing force during the supplementary arc of the

aR'

pendulum ; but it is not a matter of sufficient experimental
demonstration that it is superior to some forms of detached
or gravity escapements.

Remarks. — The Fig. may be used for showing the
methods both of theoretical and practical construction of
these pallets.

1st. Theoretical Construction. — With a view to the
correctness of the drawing, it is advisable to make it as
large as convenient, say let the radius of the escape-wheel
be six inches. It is not necessary to draw more than half
of the wheel, so that half a sheet of good drawing paper
pinned on to a corresponding drawing-board will be suffi-
cient. Take any point near to one edge, and equidistant
from the adjacent edges. Let this point be W.

Draw a straight line through this point parallel to the
edge, and draw a semicircle upon it as a diameter. Divide
the semicircle into fifteen parts, then each point thus found
may be taken as the position of the acting edge of a tooth
or its point. Draw any radius — say W A.

Place the centre of the protractor at A, and the edge
parallel to A W, and mark off the angle U A W=12deg., then
A U gives the direction of the face of each tooth. Place
the centre of the compass on W, and open it till it reaches
the line A U — that is the shortest distance of W from this
line — and round centre W, and with this opening of the
compass draw a circle. This circle will be the tangent
circle to the directions of the faces of the teeth. That is to
say, if the edge of a set square is so placed that from each
point in the circle denoting the points of the teeth a line
can be drawn touching this circle, the lines so drawn
will all have the same inclination, hence the straight edge
need only be moved from point to point on one side, and
the other kept touching this circle ; then each line so drawn
is the position or locus of the face of a tooth. The depth
of a tooth is about one-sixth of the radius.

The back of the tooth can be made either the shape as
in B' A', or in Q. For dynamical reasons the latter is pre-
ferable, because it gives a lighter wheel, while it possesses
ample strength [see (1) in (HI.)] I see no reason why the
first should be used except that it looks more pretty. If the
student prefers to draw the first, determine the point B',
which, of course, must be the same distance from W and
A' in each tooth. This can be done thus : Place one foot
of the compass on W, and open it to a distance W B', and
describe a circle. Then with one foot of the compass
alternative at each point of a tooth, and an opening to
reach B', mark off all points denoting B'; then with
A' and B' respectively as centres de-
scribe arcs, and let them cross each
other ; the point where they cross
will be the centre round which the
curve B' A' is described ; that is
point I. If the form is selected as
in Q, then the back is simply drawn
so as to give sufficient stability. Thus
if Q H indicates the back, the circle
of which W H is the radius is drawn,
and then the backs of all the teeth
• are drawn in the exact manner as the
faces of the teeth.

Next, we have to find the centre
of the pallets. Let the pallets have
equidistant locking arcs. (The reasons
for preferring equidistant lockings to
circular pallets, as well as those that
should guide us in the selection of
the number of spaces over which
the pallets are to span, will be dis-
place one edge of the set square
parallel to the line A W, and the other (bounding the right
angle) just within the periphery of the points of the teeth,
and draw a line A P, just touching the periphery at A.
Let the pallet embrace nine spaces less ldeg. of drop.*

Draw a radius from W to the middle point between the
teeth T and I', and draw a line perpendicular to this,
touching the periphery of the wheel at this point ; where
this line cuts the line A P is the centre of the pallets. If,
now, the one foot of the compass is placed on P, and
opened to A, and an arc described, this arc should pass
through the middle point of T I' ; if not, the point P is not
sufficiently carefully determined, and must be corrected by
trial, so that the arc in question passes through both these
points. Part of this arc A E forms the locking arc on the

* The angle that any radius of the wheel describes 'when a tooth becomes
disengaged from one driving plane, and the next tooth for aclion moves on to one
of the locking arcs of the pallet, is termed " angle of drop," or simply " drop," if
the linear motion of the point of a tooth is considered. It is most important that
the measure of this motion should be a minimum, for drop is not only waste of
power, but it is power working for the destruction of the parts in action. The
limit of its measure depends on two conditions, viz., delicacy of the teeth and
accuracy of division for a given wheel, and inversely as the radii in wheels of
different sizes, assuming that the locking penetration (that is the distance from
the end of the locking are where the tooth drops on) is the same, a measure which
is virtually independent of the size of the escapement. Its correct measure should
be made the subject of tables, but such work in our profession has to be done
either gratuitously, or receives payment in "kicks"; hence the reason why the
law that governs is principally " Rule of thumb."

cussed further

August 1, 1891.]

THE WATCHMAKER, JEWELLER AND SILVERSMITH.

engaging pallet, and part F' N the locking arc on the
disengaging pallet.

We proceed now to form the driving planes A 0 and
F' T ; first, A 0. Let the impulse angle be 2deg. ; that is,
make the angle L P F = 2deg., by the same method as has
been explained as regards setting off the angle U AW,
that is, the inclination of the line F P should be 2deg. with
the line LAP. Then set off the angle G W D, or what
the same, AWD = 5deg., being the angle the wheel moves
through in giving impulse.

Place, again, one centre of the compass on P, and open
it until the other (which, of course, carries the lead) coin-
cides with the point where the line D W cuts the periphery
of the wheel, and draw the arc S 0. The point where
this arc cuts the line F P is the delivery edge of the
pallet. Join A 0, and that line forms the driving plane,
and part of the arc 0 S the inside of the engaging pallet.

Lastly, as to the disengaging pallet.

The position of the engaging pallet suggests that it is
moving in the direction of the hands of a clock, and that
impulse is just about commencing, hence the delivery edge
at T has to dip into the periphery of the wheel to the exact
measure of the locking penetration of the locking arc, as
already explained. The angle H' W D' is again the
escaping angle of the wheel, and the same as angle A W D.
Draw a line from P to the point where W D ' cuts the
periphery, and, to fix our ideas, mark off an angle of ideg.
or ideg. on the wheel side as the angle of penetration (I
consider |deg. sufficient for clock escapements when the
escape wheel is perfectly true ; but as a margin against
error ^deg. may perhaps be allowed) .

(To be continued.)

©Jftc Uriaf of tfje $yg.

■^\ F all the old customs connected with
= the City, none, perhaps, is more
I important than this ancient one.
B Every year the Goldsmiths' Com-
pany are called upon to provide a
jury to report upon the correct-
ness of weight and fineness of the work of the Royal Mint.
During the process of coin-making throughout the year,
a certain number of each denomination is put into a box,
called a pyx, as specified in the Coinage Act, 1870, for the
pyx trial. These, from June 30 last year to the same date
this year, amounted to 13,572 sovereigns and 776 half-
sovereigns out of a total of £10,057,495. Out of the
£1,435,357 silver coined, 1,184 crowns, 571 double
florins, 1,966 half-crowns, 538 florins, 1,594 shillings,
1,003 sixpences, 2 fourpences, 395 threepences, 2 two-
pences, and 6 pence were put into the pyx. On the
8th of July the following gentlemen assembled at Gold-
smiths' Hall, at ten o'clock a.m. : The Queen's Remem-
brancer, Mr. Geo. F. Pollock, attended by the senior
officer of his department, Deputy Mint-Master the Hon.
C. W. Fremantle, K.C.B.; Chief Clerk, Mr. E. Rigg;
Superintendent of the Operative Department, Mr. R. A. Hill ;
the Chemist and Assayer of the Mint, Prof. W. C. Roberts-
Austin, C.B., F.R.S.; Warden of the National Standard,
Mr. H. J. Chancy; the Goldsmiths' Company being repre-
sented by Messrs. G. Matthey, G. Lambert, James Garrard,
Sir Frederick Abel, Francis B. Thomas, Stewart Pixley,
William Robinson, George Pite, Robert Ruthven Pym, and
Robert Williams. The Queen's Remembrancer addressed the
jurors upon the important function they were called upon
to perform, and the jurors having been duly sworn to report

if the moneys in the Pyx were " in weight and fineness
according to the standard weights for weighing and
testing the coins of the realm, and the standard trial plates
of gold and silver used for determining the justness of the
gold and silver coinage of the realm in the custody of the
Board of Trade," they at once retired to their laboratory
and commenced their work ; first counting the coins, then
critically assaying and weighing them. At 6.30 the
Queen's Remembrancer again attended to receive their
verdict, which was of an almost surprisingly satisfactory
nature. In the evening the Prime Warden and Wardens
of the Company entertained all the heads of the public
department and those members of their staff who were
associated in the operations of the day, also many
distinguished visitors, including the Chancellor of the
Exchequer, the Earl of Arran, Lord Cottesloe, the Bishop
Designate of Lichfield, Sir John Mowbray, M.P., Mr.
W. L. Jackson, M.P., Sir Thomas Blomfield, Sir Albert
Woods, Sir Chas. Fremantle, Sir Reginald Welby, Sir
John Coode Mr. Courtenay Boyle, C.B., Admiral Bythesea,
&c, at the banquet.

Details of the figures at the mint will be given later on.
Some idea of their extent can be gathered from the fact
that in the melting department no less than 676£ tons of
metal were cast into bars for coinage.

icoInilPe/l).

On Wednesday, the 15th ult., the greater part of
Woolwich was in a state of excitement, owing to
the disappearance of a staff- sergeant and steward of the
Herbert Hospital. It was not so much his disap-
pearance that caused the excitement perhaps, as the fact
that before his departure he had obtained goods and money
to a very large extent, by means of worthless or forged
cheques, from a large number of the local tradesmen. From
a local watchmaker he had obtained a gold watch and
albert to the value of £45. The publican, the brewer, and
anyone that he thought would change a cheque for him
suffered alike as his victims. Nor did the excitement
cease the next two days, Avhen it was discovered that,
before bidding adieu to the place where he had been so
long and respected so highly, he had planned and success-
fully carried out a most extensive set of swindles. The
method he adopted in most cases was to write to large'
houses for prices and particulars of gold watches, chrono-
graphs, or what not, stating that he was about to buy one.
In most cases a representative was sent down to interview
the applicant, and to submit a selection ; but the gentle-
man with the be-medaled chest did not close the business
on those occasions, but made appointments for the follow-
ing Tuesday, which he faithfully kept. In all instances
that have come to our notice the firms let him have the
things he selected upon his cheque, as the circumstances of
his position and surroundings would fully justify ; as no one
would for a moment imagine that he was leaving behind
him such a position and prospects of pension after twenty
years' service. In most instances the sums were fifties and
sixties, and whenever he could he overdrew the cheque and
took the balance. From a local tradesman he obtained a
piano, drawing £10 balance ; but the cheque in this
instance was not in his name but drawn to his favor. It
is this firm who have taken out the warrant for his appre-
hension, but with twenty-four hours start it may be a long
time before he is caught, although it is said he is largely
deficient with the mess money ; and, if so, the Government
may take up the case, which is certainly a remarkable one,
as the offender had a large sum of deferred payment, and a
pension coming to him. He also leaves behind him a wife
and six children. There are other details connected with
the case which we are unable to give.

THE WATCHMAKER, JEWELLER AND SILVERSMITH.

[August 1, 1891.

By W. J. Lewis Abbott, F.G.S.
(( 'ontinued from page 5.)

The Tkimktuk' System. — Concluded.
The Natural Forms of Olivine.

|HERE is probably no gem about which such
confusion has existed as the chrysolite ; by
modern mineralogists the name is applied to
the light varieties of Olivine, the darker
pistachio greens being called peridots. The
two gems are thus but varieties of the species Olivine.
With the various gems that have from time to time
received these two names, such as Brazilian chrysolite,
or peridot, peridot of Ceylon, nor the names by which it
has been called, such as Topazius (Plin), &c, we have
nothing to do in the present series, belonging, as it does,
to descriptive gemmology, and not to crystallography.

Although a volcanic product and often found in the
matrix, crystals are somewhat rare ; masses of olivine are
now before me weighing upwards of a pound ; but although
they possess a regular outline, they are more like granular
aggregations than crystals as represented in, say, topazes,
with only here and there patches which are sufficiently
transparent, clear, and good color to cut. It is such firmer
pieces as these portions that resist attrition in water-
wearing in rivers, and ultimately become small pebbles, in
which condition this gem is most frequently found ; still,
however, good crystals are often to be seen with perfect
outlines, as well as pseudomorphs after them, in minerals
into which the olivine has become altered. Usually the
crystals are rough-looking, the pyramidal faces frequently
appearing as though they had been ground. In many
respects the olivines resemble the chrysoberyls in outline,
but there is usually — although not always — present a basal
plane. There is not that apparent compression of forms
noticeable in the other gems, and above all the twinning in
those peculiar types is quite unknown. The prisms are
hardly ever simple rhombic or rectangular, and are almost
always doubly terminated. They are usually about a
quarter as long again as wide, the other lateral direction
being only slightly in excess — usually about a tenth. In a
most symmetrical form such as fig. 40 we notice the two
pyramids together are rather less than the length of the
prism. This prism, it will be observed, has twelve sides or
faces, each of which is followed by a pyramidal face. The
faces lettered R are faces of the rhombic prism ; that lettered
M, with its opposite face, lie parallel to the macro-diagonal ;
arid the one lettered B, with its. opposite face, lie parallel to
the brachy-diagonal axis. The other two small prismatic
faces, with the two opposite them (not shown in the figure),
bear a different relation to the two lateral axes from the
faces of the two prisms with which we have been mainly
dealing ; they are an illustration of a third class of pris-
matic faces which differ in their interfacial angles, and
which are frequently present in this gem. There is one
feature about these third-class prisms not often noticed by
crystallographers, and that is they are frequently devekq^ed
on one side of the crystal and not on the other, giving rise to

six and ten-sided prisms. Fig. 41 is an illustration of this.
In this figure the two larger front faces arc those of the
rhombic prism meeting at a point, when it will be
remembered they cut one of the lateral axes : if these two
faces were continued to the right and left, and the corre-
sponding pair at the back similarly continued, they would
meet at points where they would cut the other lateral axis,
forming a prism upon a rhomb ; it will be noticed, however,
that this is intercepted by the interposition of the face
lettered B lying parallel to the brachy-diagonal axis. But
between these and upon their adjoining edges we see
another face, similar in position to the small faces in fig. 40,
only with this peculiarity— viz., that it is not developed on
the corresponding side of the crystal as it is in that figure.
Turning to the pyramids of this gem they usually occur
double (top and bottom), they are rather low, forming an
angle with the girdle of about 40deg. Sometimes every face
upon the prism is followed by one in the same vertical zone
in the pyramid, as in fig. 40; more frequently, however,
such is not the case ; sometimes, although there are all three
classes of prism present, there is only one pair of pris-
matic faces, as in fig. 42, forming either a macro- or brachy-
dome, with or without truncation by the basal plane.
Sometimes an eight or twelve-sided prism is terminated by
a four-sided pyramid, as shown in fig. 41, in which case
only two planes coincide horizontally with the prismatic
facets. At other times they are terminated by a four-sided
rhombic pyramid, in which case they would all four coin-
cide with planes in the prism. Sometimes.these pyramidal
faces are symmetrically developed, occurring on one side
and not on the other. Sometimes we see a development of
a pyramidal face on one side and a corresponding prismatic
face on the other. Frequently — in fact, generally — the
pyramidal faces are not evenly developed, those of the
rhombic pyramid, say, being only represented by tiny little
faces, whilst those of the other pyramid are absorbingly
over-developed. There is no rule to determine the extent
to which over-development of certain faces may take place,
either in pyramids or prisms. The same maybe said of the ■
basal plane : it is usually present, but sometimes it is a mere
square speck, at other times like a knife back running in
either lateral direction, at others it occupies a very large
area, its shape being determined by the number and size of
the pyramidal faces.

(To be continued.')

The Diamond Eiffel tower has met with the fate that
could only be expected to await it, viz. : it has been broken
up, so that altogether ij; has not been a success, not having
been finished soon enough for the Paris Exhibition. It
was a remarkable undertaking, containing as it did 21,000
diamonds of an aggregate weight of 3,000 carats, some of
which were two carat stones. It was knocked down for
220,000 francs.

At the last meeting of the shareholders of the Coventry
Watch Movement Company attention was called to the
dearth of skilled workmen in the watch trade. It was
suggested by one of the shareholders of the company (Mr.
J. (i. Morrall) that manufacturers should combine to offer
prizes for competition among the apprentices in the watch
trade as an incentive to them to become skilled workmen.
The suggestion met with the approval of those present,
but unfortunately no steps were taken to give practical
effect to it.

A Solae Turret Clock. — A very fine turret clock has
recently been made by Mr. J. W. Benson for the palace of
the Sultan of Turkey at Stamboul. It differs from any
turret clock in this kingdom, in that one dial shows mean
time, and the other Solar time ; a curious compromise
with civilisation, as although the Turks are anxious to
avail themselves of all the benefits of Western progress,
their religious rites are calculated by the sun.

August 1, 1891.]

THE WATCHMAKER, JEWELLEE AND SILVERSMITH.

Sheffield jfotes.

(By oub own Cobeespondent.)*

HE strike at the Cutlery Works
NmIsS^ ^£j8h^ feel! ^ °^ Messrs. George Walsten-
- r ' mS mf1 s holme and Sons has terminated,

and the men have gone in upon
terms that are described as
being mutually satisfactory
to employers and employed.
It is difficult to see, however,
what the men can have gained,
considering that they have been idle for some eight or nine
weeks. Loudly proclaiming that 28s. per week meant
starvation to themselves and families, they have yet
managed to exist during the whole of that period on the
meagre pittance doled out as sick pay by their union. Of
all the strikes of recent times this has been the most
insane. The fact is beyond question that the cutlery trade
of the town during the past decade has remained stationary.
While old firms in the electro-plate trade have been ex-
tending their borders, and new ones springing up on every
side, the very reverse has been the experience of the old
original staple trade of the town. Old firms have become
extinct, and have not been replaced by new ones, while
the old houses of world-wide reputation have just managed
to hold their own. The keen competition of Germany and
France has been responsible for this result, and the
McKinley tariff seems to preclude any hope of an imme-
diate improvement. Under these circumstances it is of
vital importance that employers and employed should pull
together, and whoever is in any way instrumental in setting
them at loggerheads incurs a grave responsibility.

YT/HE Cornish Place Dixons are a prolific race. Not
^J® long ago I had to chronicle the coming of age
festivities of one of the younger members of the family.
Now they have been celebrating the jubilee of Mr. H. J.
Dixon, of Stumperlowe Hall, as a member of the firm of
James Dixon and Sons. Just 50 years ago Mr. H. J.
Dixon attained his majority, and was taken into partner-
ship by his father, the founder of the firm. Tbe work-
people employed at Cornish Place, to the number of 700,
were entertained by Mr. Dixon at Stumperlowe Hall, and
there presented him, as a memento of the occasion, with a
handsome clock, and a splendid tea-service and tray in solid
silver. The clock was Italian renaissance in design, and
the tea-service and tray were elaborately and tastefully
engraved. An illuminated address also formed part of the
presentation. The whole affair was highly creditable both
to employers and employed. Many of the latter had been
in the service of the firm for over 50 years, one old artisan,
who was unable to be present on account of illness, having
completed his 65th year's service. It says much for the
vitality of the silver trade of the town that the firm which
originated it is still not only in existence, but has attained
such vast dimensions.

\| /HE news of the death of Alderman Osborn, Mayor of
^l® Sheffield, has been received with painful surprise by
the whole community. Although for the greater
part of his mayoralty in feeble health, he certainly was not
expected to succumb on the eve of what was thought to be
his complete restoration to health. Such, nevertheless,
has been the case, and we have lost from our midst a
citizen who was thorougly respected in more than a con-
ventional sense. The most prominent feature in his cha-
racter was his sterling integrity. In the early part of his

* We must not be understood as endorsing all, or necessarily any, of the views of
our correspondent, who writes on his own responsibility.

career as a manufacturer a series of reverses compelled Mr.
Osborn to call his creditors together, and an offer on his
part to buy back the business for 12s. 6d. in the pound was
accepted with alacrity. It was considered an exceedingly
good dividend as things were at that time. In less than
10 years, however, each of the surprised and gratified
creditors received a cheque for the balance of his account.
From that time all the operations of Mr. Osborn have
prospered, and he has died, in point of wealth, one of the
princes of the Iron and Steel industry.

VTYHE difference between an ordinary newspaper and a
®1® technical journal is generally understood to be that
the latter can be trusted to tell its story without the
aid of any of those adventitious accessories which often
render the reports of the former utterly worthless. The
recent article in the Lancet, however, respecting the
sanitary condition of Sheffield is scarcely characterised by
the calm and dispassionate tone pertaining to the ordinary
technical journal. Our medical contemporary has been
sending down a special commissioner, who, taking for his
text the recent influenza epidemic, has discoursed more
eloquently than correctly upon health matters in general.
When the commissioner talks about the panic which he
says prevailed during the influenza visitation, every man
in Sheffield knows that he is talking utter nonsense. Nor
is it correct to say that the trade of the town was affected
in any way by buyers from other towns being frightened
away. Our producing powers were crippled for the
time being, that was all. What he says about our ashpit
system is doubtless true, but when, carried away by
his own eloquence, he characterises Sheffield as one of
the most unhealthy towns in the country, we rub our
eyes and ask whether the figures of the Registrar General
are worth anything at all ? On the whole, we think
they are, although they point to the conclusion that Shef-
field is one of the most healthy, or, if you like it better,
one of the least unhealthy of the large manufacturing
towns in the country. Therefore, although it is quite
right on the part of ' ' Our Commissioner ' ' to put his finger
on the weak points in our sanitary system, he should
remember that, as Justice Shallow would say, "compari-
sons are odorous," and he should abstain from pointing his
moral and adorning his tale by making statements which
he would find considerable difficulty in substantiating.

XT/HE phenomenal growth of many of the silver and
^Ji9 electro-plate firms of the town has been more than
once alluded to in these notes. The extension of
Walker and Hall's premises in the direction of Cadman-
lane is rapidly approaching completion. Five years ago
had any new factory been built with the working capacity
of this extension it would have taken its place at once in
the first class. Now, however, this addition excites very little
remark. In connection with these continual extensions, the
company deem it necessary to have an elaborate system of
wires running through the whole factory, and connected
with a sort of tell-tale clock, which, by an ingenious con-
trivance, registers any dereliction of duty on the part of
the night watchman in making his rounds.

VT7EADE would be rather flat at present in the silver
®X® trade were it not for the new patterns which most
firms are energetically turning out. A teaspoon is in-
dividually a small object, but some new ideas in that line,
which are being evolved by Messrs. Round and Son, are
being instrumental in providing profitable employment to a
great number of deserving people. These spoons are decorated
with the " National Emblems," and are selling in large
quantities. It is found that Scotchmen find tea stirred with
a spoon bearing the similitude of a thistle more soothing to
their nerves than the same beverage agitated with the old

THE WATCHMAKER, JEWELLER AND SILVERSMITH.

[August i, 1891.

" fiddle" pattern. In like manner Irishmen largely affect
the shamrock, the harp, and even the round tower in their
five o'clock accessories. This is not exactly high art, hut it
" takes," and that is what is wanted in the dull season. If
you want something nobler, 0 aesthetic visitor ! walk into
the showroom, where vou will find art enough, and to spare.
In the meantime cases of the new spoons are being pro-
duced in sufficient numbers to hinder managers from
obtaining their much-needed rest at the seaside, which fact
may be taken to represent the proverbial fly in the pot of
ointment.

^j/HE Sheffield Chamber of Commerce has by special
^J® resolution expressed its disappointment with the
decision of the Parliamentary Committee in the
matter of the rejection of the Sheffield Company's contem-
plated extension to London. A strong feeling seemed to
exist among the members, that the local opinion of a
London residential suburb should not be allowed to over-
ride the vast interests involved in the scheme to such com-
munities as Sheffield. Of course we can all see that there is
something to be said on the other side. If a proposal were
made to run a railway cutting through our own suburb of
Ranmoor, it is pretty safe to say that the individual
members of our Chamber of Commerce would oppose it to
the death. Nevertheless, we arc certain sooner or later to
get our new line to London.

HN the other hand, the Chamber entered heartily into
■ I— J the proposal to hold a special meeting of the Chambers
of Commerce of the Empire in London next year. The
proposed codification of the Commercial Law of the Empire
may appear too Utopian an idea at present, but if anything
could be done towards the assimilation of the law relating
to Trade Marks throughout the British Dominions, it would
be a great boon to Sheffield.

Rotex*) from. jV6roa.iL.

is difficult to realize, that, while we blush to

think of the hours that shops in this country

used to be kept open, the New York jewelry

trade have agreed to close on Saturday

mid-day ; and the leading jewelers of

Savannah, Ga., and elsewhere at six all the

week until October. The larger firms mi

the jewelry and kindred trades in Chicago

have also agreed to close their houses of

business at half-past five every week day

except Saturday, when they close at one o'clock. The

early closing movement will be in force from June to

September.

■ " # # *

That London is not the only place in which high rents
are paid is evinced by the fact that a Chicago jewelry house
has just rented a building for twenty years for 460,OOOdols.,
or 38,000dols. per year !

# # *

The other day the Elgin Watch Company paid duty on
a small parcel of rubies and diamonds to be employed in
jewelling watches to the tune of 150,000dols. We have
this on good authority, but it is difficult to realize the
truth of it.

* # *

According to a report submitted at the last annual
meeting of the American Society of Civil Engineers, at,
the commencement of 1890 the twenty-four hour notation
was in use on less than 4,000 miles of railway, but before
the year closed it was permanently adopted on more than
'20,000 miles, and there is even a prospect of its adoption
on all lines.

In Canada a bill has also been proposed to legalize the
adopted reforms of time-reckoning, and the British
Government has forwarded to Colonial Governments a
recommendation to adopt the hour zone system and
twenty-four hour notation for railway time.

# '. * . #

The amount of silver now stored up in the great
Treasury Vault at Washington amounts to something like
4,000 tons, representing 90,000,000 of dollars. In
another vault there is two-thirds of this quantity also
stored away.

# * #

The late Mr. W. F. Tompkins, manager to the Seth
Thomas Clock Company, is credited with having amassed
a fortune of 200,000dols.

# * #

A St. Louis house paid duty recently on 40,000dols. of
gems. This is claimed to be the largest amount ever
passed through the St. Louis Customs House.

# * *

Rockfoed, 111., is to have another watch factory, with a
capital of 250,000dols. It is expected to be in active
manufacturing operation by September next.

# * *

A small demagnetizer of watches is now being sold
in America, which is portable and easy of use. It
consists of four Le Clanche cells which generate the
current, which is transmitted to a pair of small coils.
Upon an arm parallel with the coils, and immediately in
front of them, is a spindle working on a screw thread.
The watch is placed in a receiver, and on turning the
spindle by a bow or otherwise the watch is made to rotate
in front of the magnets, and to advance and recede in the
operation. The price at which this instrument is sold is
25dols. complete.

# * #

Young Duncan, the youth who, it will be remembered,
absconded with thirty thousand dollars' worth of
diamonds from Lewison & Co. of New York, in January
last, has been run to ground. He applied for the parcel
which contained the majority of the stones at the Astor
House, where he left them the day after the robbery, in
which place the contents of the parcel were discovered
through their bad packing. He has now been sentenced
to four years and five months' imprisonment in the
penitentiary. After receiving the sentence he walked away
with a jaunty air. One of the most remarkable things
connected with this youth's career was that he got clean
away and sailed to Lisbon ; here he met with Mr. Colbron
and Mr. Davis of Boston, and to the latter he gave the
brass check he had received from the Astor House for the
diamonds he had left there in an old sock, asking Mr.
Davis to get them forwarded to an address he gave in
Tangiers, which Mr. Davis agreed to do. The latter then
in company with Mr. Colbron took passage for home on
the steamship Utopia, which, it may be remembered, came
in collision off Gibraltar with a British vessel and sunk,
Mr. Davis and all his possessions going to the bottom.
Mr. Colbron, who was saved, managed to get back his
trunk after three days' searching by the diver. In it was
found the brass check, which Mr. Colbron sent to the
American Consul to be forwarded to Duncan at Tangiers.

The annual picnic of the Liverpool Watchmakers and
Jewelers' Association will come off at Harecastle on the
8rd inst. Messrs. R. Neville, M.P., R. C. Oldfield, W. J.
Blunt, Newcomb Bros., and others have given presents for
the sports. At the last monthly meeting of this associa-
tion, presided over by Mr. John Bryant, a lengthy discus-
sion took place on the recent cases of breaches of the plate
licence.

August 1, 1891.]

THE WATCHMAKER, JEWELLER AND SILVERSMITH.

Bir/Tyi^fyam JNfot^. M

ESSRS. MANDER AND CO., of Spon End,
Coventry, have found it necessary to extend their

(By our own Correspondent.)*

T"JROM Mr. W. H. Brown, jun., of 3S, Spencer-street,
X& Birmingham, is to be obtained an ingenious con-
trivance, called the united pendant and watch key.
The key is attached to the charm at the end of the chain,
consequently it can never become lost or mislaid. The
patent climax watch key is a somewhat similar contrivance
intended to answer the same purpose, differing only in that
the key is attached to the chain close to the swivel in such
a way as to admit of the watch being wound without
detaching the key from the chain.

fT may seem premature to talk of Christmas trade yet,
but it may be remembered that as early as the latter
part of August, or certainly the beginning of September
last year, orders for Christmas things were being taken,
and the first in the field appeared to share the best. But,
of course, jewelry stock is not a thing that one can
accumulate for a future market to the extent that many
things can be, as it soon becomes very heavy, and refiners'
bills are not very long lived.

TLMONGST the firms we have recently visited, and had
Jp\. opportunities of seeing what is being turned out, we
might refer to the old establishment of Messrs. Horace
Woodward and Co. The quiet, select, high-class old con-
nection nature of this business does not, perhaps, bring it so
prominently before the general trade as some ; but I am
pleased to find that the same artistic high-class goods are still
being manufactured here for west-end houses, for the produc-
tion of which London has always had the credit. I was also
glad to see that, unlike many of the old houses, they do not
run entirely in the old ruts, but here may be seen a charm-
ing assortment of silver novelties, down to quite small
things, which, I suppose I may be allowpd to say, I remember
the time when they would not have thought of making. So
much, however, for realizing the spirit of the age, and keep-
ing ones selves abreast of what is being wanted. With all
the ability of this firm brought to bear upon any necessity,
one who knows them can well imagine what the result has
been, and those of our readers less familiar with them had
better lose no time in paying them a visit.

dNE of the most varied stocks that one can wander
amongst is that of Messrs. I. S. Greenberg and Co.
The low-priced stuff is really remarkable ; to think
of a Hall-marked 9-carat signet at 24s. a dozen, or ladies'
rings of the same class set with real stones for 30s. a dozen,
tempts one to wonder what those who make them get.
The same may be said of Hall-marked silver alberts at 5s.
an ounce. These are things where the prices are obviously
cut, but there are hundreds of others, which, upon inquiry,
turn out just as cheap.

MESSRS. CINDER still continue to produce new and
taking designs in rings. No one can pass through a
half-dozen London streets without noticing how
much greater stock of rings everyone keeps now, and the
large quantity of fancy designs that may now be seen.

fWAS recently very much pleased with a number of the
latest arrivals to the stock of Mr. A. Sydenham. Many
of the brooches are quite marvels. He seems at the
present time to be giving a great deal of attention to silver
badges, some four or five hundred of which we saw.

* We must not be understood as endorsing all, or necessarily any, of the views of
our correspondent.

establishment. The facility to deal with a fast increas-
ing business will thus be greater. Every possible requirement
can be furnished by this firm, and it is a noteworthy fact
that orders are sent for watch materials, etc., from all parts
of the world. If Messrs. Mander's customers were so well
satisfied before, what, in view of the extensive alterations,
will they be now ?

Government Report on the Birmingham
School of ^A-PsT.

All our readers will peruse with pleasure the report of
Mr. Gilbert R. Redgave in the thirty-eighth report of the
Department of Science and Art of the Committee of the
Council on Education, on the work of the above School of
Art : — " This is a most interesting and successful school.
It is an extension of the work begun in the Ellen-street
Branch School. By an arrangement with the Birmingham
Jeweler's' and Silversmiths' Association the employees of
members of these trades are collected here for instruction
not only in drawing and designing, but also in the technical
work of the trade — enamelling, engraving, chasing, embos-
sing, filagree work, and other branches. The School of
Art work, on the ground floor, under Mr. Taylor and his
staff, is specialised so as to have direct reference to the
trade, and the boys are encouraged, as soon as they can
draw, to turn their attention to designing. Some very fair
designs were in progress for ornamental treatments to fill
given spaces. There is also a class of about twenty
engaged in modelling. Both the teachers are practically
employed in jewelers' work. Mr. Steeley, the head master,
has been trained also at South Kensington, and has
worked at the bench at Bragg's factory. The Jewelers'
Society have drafted a special form of indenture for their
apprentices, binding them to attend this school.
They also allow them to quit work half an hour
earlier for the purpose. The school authorities send a
monthly report to each firm, with a list of the boys in
attendance, indicating the number of times they attended,
and the days on which they were absent. These reports
go out to some seventy firms. This school is situated at
Hockley, in the centre of the jewelers' quarters, and the
Associations, both of masters and workmen, have taken
part in the movement. There are upwards of 320 names
on the books, all practically engaged in these trades. On
an upper floor is the Technical School, which is under the
special direction and control of the trade society, and is
leased by them from the Museum and School of Art Com-
mittee. This school is provided with rolling and wire-
drawing plant and muffles and enamel-kiln. There are
three teachers, skilled workmen (the chaser comes from
Messrs. Elkington, and is a son of one of their best artists
— Cope). The teacher of enamelling, Mr. Slater, is also
an expert artificer. The room is fitted with benches,
lenses, and all the necessary tools for forty students work-
ing at once. The school is open five days a week, from
6.30 to 8.0 p.m. Half the fee cf 3s. is paid by the
association and half by the student's employer. It is in-
tended that a student taking the full course shall practise
in turn at each kind of work, and thus learn which branch
he is best adapted for. This would be quite impossible in
a factory. This is, I think, the first instance in which a
School of Art has been worked in conjunction with a
technical school."

Once more the names of Thompson and Vine are
associated, but with a transposition, it now being Vine and
Thompson, under which name the well-known old firm will
continue their business.

THE WATCHMAKER. JEWELLER AND SILVERSMITH.

[August 1, 1891.

fbincjs ;f(e\A/ or §|oke Worthy,

The accompanying illustration represents the key made
by Messrs. P. Yaughton and Sons, Gothic Works, Bir-
mingham, for the opening of
Lund Park, Keighley. It is
made of solid 18-carat gold, and
is designed and carried out in the
Renaissance style. Upon the
obverse are the Arms, Crest, and
Motto of James Lund, Esq.,
D.L., J.P. (the donor of the
park), emblazoned in correct
heraldic colors. The ribbon
bearing the motto in gold letters
on an enamelled ground is en-
twined with the Renaissance
scrolls on either side. On the
reverse of the head of the key
the arms and crest of the
Borough of Keighley appear
enamelled in heraldic colors.
The head of the key rests on an
escutcheon - shaped ' support,
bearing on one side the follow-
ing inscription : Borough of
Keighley. Opening of Lund
Park, 21st July, 1891, by Mrs.
Lund, of Malsis Hall ; and on
the other side : Presented by
William Weatherhead, ex-Mayor
of Keighley, in Commemoration
of the gift of the Park by James
Lund, Esq., J.P. and D.L., in
the year 1889.
# * #

Our readers will be pleased to have noticed that Messrs.
John Round and Son are the first in the field with the
souvenir spoons. We hear on all sides that these spoons
are selling well, and, as we pointed out some months ago,
it is not so much the spoons, but the other trade they bring
that makes them so desirable for everyone to keep.
* * *

"HEN we see the profuse display of wedding and
keeper rings made by the many retail jewelers it
might sometimes be wondered how far weddings
and engagements are influenced by such exhibitions, and
how many successful businesses have been built upon such
hymeneal foundations. It may be that the jeweler in
making so much effort to cultivate this branch of his
business recognises its extreme importance, for undoubtedly
the most romantic period of one's life is the few days pre-
ceding that of the wedding. And of all places most
reverently remembered, perhaps next only to the church,
is the shop where the wedding and keeper rings were pur-
chased ; and the shopkeeper is most heartily to be com-
mended who successfully makes the highest bid for this
custom. For what a large association does he enter upon !
He secures customers at the most impressionable period of
their lives ; and it is thus that trade connections are formed
which exist perhaps through life. A charm hangs over his
shop, and upon every possible acquaintance the purchasers
of the rings are glad to renew their acquaintance with the
affable trader. Wedding presents, a present to the hus-
band, a present to the wife, birthday presents, articles for
the household, and a hundred and one other purchases
follow in the train of the wedding and keeper ring sale.
We have many times thus reflected, and, with some pain,
have noted that however aspiring the shopkeeper may be,
very few are able to attract the amount of attention they
would like to the sacred ring (owing to the very bad show

stands), while the commotion often caused by the dis-
arrangement of the window when a purchase is being made
is such as to cause to a nervous couple, such as an ex-
pectant bride and bridegroom usually are, considerable
embarrassment, True, the shopkeeper is not altogether to
blame for such a state of things, for beyond making a poor
show on a few curiously constructed rods or in an antique
saucer, little further is done. Recognising this, the-
old-established firm of Messrs. William Griffith and Sons,
Manufacturing Jewelers, 35, Northampton-street, Bir-
mingham, have just completed and registered two
" Universal " stands for wedding and keeper rings respec-
tively, composed of pure white alluminum metal and
ormolu. The designs for the stands being singularly
appropriate to the general sentiment attached to each ring,
we feel justified in saying they are the finest stands ever
produced for the purpose of increasing sales in this direc-
tion. They are at once in their material, workmanship,
simplicity, and cheapness exceedingly attractive ornaments,
and an absolute necessity to all jewelers desirous of ex-
tending their business. We understand Messrs. William
Griffith and Sons have printed illustrations, which we
would advise intending purchasers to apply for, as the
stands will unquestionably create a very large demand.

-3*£*S-

Clocks and Death.

The sentimental and superstitious who are given to tracing
the laws of coincidences will find an interesting subject for
their attention in the recent death of a jeweler in Bucyrus,
Ohio. For many years it has been the office of a skilful
German watchman, named Frank Kehrer, to attend to the
town clock. During the past few months the health of
Mr. Kehrer has been poor, and the clock, deprived of his
careful attention, has been keeping indifferent time. One
Monday morning recently the timepiece struck 5, and a
few moments later it stopped. Early risers who heard the
chime affirm that there was something indescribably weird
and peculiar about it. Later risers, noticing the clock
hands pointing to 5.05, commented upon the subject and
its aged guardian. Later in the day the news spread that
Mr. Kehrer's condition had suddenly become worse and
that he had died at 5.05 that morning. When the late
State Senator B. J. Smith, of Hancock County, West
Virginia, passed away, his family looked at his watch to
s'ee the time. The hands pointed to 12.02 o'clock. When
S. G. Smith, son of the senator, began housekeeping in
Wheeling, his father gave him a family clock which he had
always attended to himself. After the funeral Mr. Smith
returned to Wheeling. As soon as he saw the clock, Mr.
Smith turned to his mother and sister and asked them if
anything in the room had attracted their attention. " The
clock," said the sister, and the mother nodded assent.
The clock had stopped at 12.02. — American Manufacturing
Jeweller.

Me. Charles Vales, connected with the trade in
London, died a few days since at the age of forty, from
poisoning, and it is as yet unknown how he came to take
the poison. Before dying he made a statement to the
effect that Mme. Le Maout, whose husband is a chemist
in Wardour-street, sold him the poison in a packet of
Epsom salts. At the inquest both M. and Mme. Le Maout
denied that Epsom salts had been sold at all on the day
mentioned in the statement, and the jury returned a
yerdict to the effect that the " deceased died from strych-
nine poisoning, but that there was no evidence to show
how it was administered." This ought to be cleared up.

The Jewelers and Silversmiths play a game of cricket
at Neasden the Tuesday after Bank Holiday.

August 1, 1891.]

THE WATCHMAKER, JEWELLER AND SILVERSMITH.

©u.r LlnoDrougfti* Maferiaf^.

New Localities for Turquoise.

E have recently seen specimens of turquoise
from a new locality — on the other side of
New Mexico — to that in which it has been
previously known to occur. The speci-
mens we saw are in a light and dark
breccia, somewhat decomposed, and re-
sembling very much the matrix at Los
Cerillos. In certain places the angularity i
and isolation of the turquoise in the matrix would suggest
its forming only a constituent element in the breccia, or
replacing some other mineral that did, as there is no sign
of bedding. Mr. Charles H. Snow has also recently
described some old turquoise workings in this same locality,
which are now being looked after with renewed vigor.
Usually, however, that found is not of a very good color.
We know someone who is now out there prospecting for it,
and hope to publish the fruits of his labors when they are
known.

Large Gold Nuggets.

The last mail from the Western Australian gold-fields
brings word of further finds of large size nuggets of gold, '
one weighing 92 oz. There therefore seems great
promise for this district, which is attracting attention from
older fields in the east ; whilst good luck seems also to
have turned to the Queensland mines.

Imports of Gold from South ^frica.

During the month of June, South Africa, or — as some
would prefer to call it — the Land of Sheba, sent to us
£251,383 worth of gold.

Output of Gold and Silver. ■

There were 677,632 oz. of gold and 6,854,000 oz. of
silver employed in the United States for manufacturing
purposes during last year. The total of the world's pro-
duction for the corresponding period is estimated at
5,719,500 oz. of gold, and silver 132,680,000 oz. An
increase of over twelve per cent, in the output of gold in
ten years, and nearly an increase of a hundred per cent, in
the silver. It is interesting to know that the British Isles
have sometimes contributed four figures to the amount of
gold, and it is also lamentable to realise that at least one-**
or even two more might be added, if gold mining were
assisted instead of hampered by the laws of the country.

A cable from the Witwatersrand announces 55,863 oz.
as the net amount of gold gained during the month of
June. This is nearly, although not the highest output
for any one month.

Stephanite.

A company is about to be formed with £150,000 capital,
to treat iron and steel with a new flux, called Stephanite,
after the name of its discoverer. It contains about seventy
per cent, of alumina, being largely composed of alumina
and emery. It is said that the metal comes from the fur-
nace in a more liquid state under this process than by
any other ; and that owing to the length of time it
retains its temperature, no blow-holes are formed, and a
more homogeneous structure is produced.

The Ceylon Peap^l. Fishef^y.

The Ceylon Fisheries for this year have been very
successful, and will leave the Government a profit of over
eight hundred thousand rupees, the gross takings being
nine hundred and sixty thousand rupees, while the ex-
penses, &c, do not amount to more than one hundred
thousand. It is curious how these spoils of the pearl

fishery are disposed of, and for a long while they pre-
sented the Government with an insoluble problem. At
last, however, taking advantage of the native inborn
element of the love of gambling, in any shape or form,
in the Orients, they decided that the pearl bearers should
be brought to land unopened, shot in heaps, and then sold
by auction. As on an average, perhaps not more than
one in fifty contain a pearl, and not more than one in
a hundred of these are of any size, it is evident what
a field for gambling thus lies open. After the sales are
over, the stinking shells are opened and searched with
fervid avidity, the whole congregation very much re-
sembling that polyglot assemblage described in Acts ii. ; a
whole change comes over the scene : here a Cingalese is
rejoicing over his bargain and good luck, there is an Arab
frantic with grief at his losses. Bargain-hunting Jews,
who have not sufficient speculation in them to buy the
shells unopened, are now trying to make the best of a
deal with the more fortunate speculators ; whilst a general
stampede is going on to all quarters of the surrounding
country.

New Montana Stones.

Amongst the stones which are now being unearthed by
gem-hunters in Montana are some of whose nature there
is at present a little doubt, and of which we are not at present
able to speak with any certainty. One thing, however, is
certain, that if there is anything peculiar in them we are in
the position to obtain the full description. They appear to
approach diamonds, and are even called diamonds by some,
while others call them carbons. It is claimed that they are
very nearly as hard as the diamond (or rather carbonado)
used in diamond drilling, and there are feats claimed for
them connected with that purpose which no diamond could
perform, which point to their being carbonado similar to
that of Brazil, so that the region may not, after all, possess
a true diamond.

yVLoRE New Piamond Localities.

It is said a company is forming with $1,000,000 capital,
and with a large sum already subscribed, to mine for
gold and diamonds at Volcano, Amador Co., California.
Offices are taken and the names of the incorporators are
published.

Moscow Opals.

The Opal Mines of Moscow, U.S.A., to which we .re-
ferred a short time back, are yielding surprisingly ; two
men are at work in a shaft from which they obtain some-
times over a hundred carats a day of exceptionally fine
quality.

Refractory JjOLd Pres.

There are several new processes now coming forward for
the treatment of refractory ores, owing partially to the
success of the MacArthur-Forrest process ; one of which,
the Atkins method, has some rather new features, being
partially electolytic and partially amalgamating. It is
claimed that the process can recover ninety per cent, of
gold present, and that it can treat a ton of ore in an hour
at a cost of ten shillings, practically always using the same
water, a feature often of considerable importance.

Rich Piscoveries of ^ntimony.

News is just to hand of the discovery of large quantities
of this useful and by no means plentiful metal in Inyo
County, California. At the present the places where this
valuable metal is found are very limited, and, with the
increased consumption for type metal, had not a fresh
supply been discovered soon there can be no doubt that its
price would have run up, which would have been of great
importance to a section of the trade, as antimony forms a
large proportion of Britannia metal.

THE WATCHMAKER, JEWELLER AND SILVERSMITH.

[August 1, 1891.

#Tem$ of #nfere^t.

THE Vice-Consul of Seville calls attention to
Decline in fae faci tliat the imports into that country from
Trade. Great Britain have decreased during the last
year £186,000, whilst those from France and
other countries have largely increased. One of the factors
in which he attributes to the other nations quoting in the
currency of the country, duty paid, is so much per kilo-
gramme, metre, litre, &c, instead of £ per cwts., yard,
gallon, etc. It is surely high time that a universal system
of weights and measures, understood alike by neighbouring
townsmen at home and foreigners abroad, was adopted.
* * #

The development of trade in several of the
©nUetefor Eastern countries ought to'be watched carefully
chnntiixe. by all members of our trades. Last year the
Japanese imported about £35,000 worth of
clocks, half the quantity of jewelry, and watches to the
extent of £116,213, the whole of their imports from Great
Britain being over £3,500,000.

# # *

Some figures and remarks which may be put to
The Watch practical use can be taken from the report of the

Trade and ^ . r ,

Spain. _b rench Consul at Barcelona m connection with
the watch trade. He says there are numerous
houses engaged in this 'trade. At present Switzerland has
a monopoly by means of depots established at Barcelona
and Madrid, who send out travellers to the provinces. It
is, however, essential to study the Spanish taste, which
differs in the North and South. Usually a large watch is
most liked ; the Besancon watches are regarded as being
too flat. The standard for gold is almost 18c. with a few
14c. and for silver -800. A " Control," although existing,
is not obligatory, the manufacturer's mark usually sufficing.
Red gold is preferred. Silver hunters 18 to 24 lines.
Ladies' ditto are usually 13 lines ; gold hunters 19, 20, and
21 lines, and ladies' ditto 10, 13, and 14 lines. A few open-
face silver, and many metal and steel run from 13 to 20
lines, hunters being preferred in all be'ter watches.

*7V* -TV*

According to the French Consul at Trieste

r^i'radeftinh articles of gold and silver on entering Austria

Au«tro- are tested, after which they are stamped. The

standards required in gold for watches are 18c.
and 14c, The Control taxes are 50fl. per kilog. for gold,
and 12fl. per kilog. for silver, both net weight. Yellow
gold is mostly sought in 18c, while 14c. is divided between
yellow and red. Ladies' are usually 13 and 14 lines in
size, men's 18, 19, and 20 lines, hunters being preferred
to O.F. At Budapest the minimum legal standard for gold
and silver employed in watches is -580. The Control levy
a tax at the rate of 20fl. per kilog. for gold, and 3fi. per
kilog. for silver, yellow gold and hunters being preferred.
Men's sizes are usually 18 and 19 lines, and ladies' 12, 13,
and 14 lines. English, by the way, is but little spoken
here.

* * #

Visitors to the North may be glad to have the

Exhibition opportunity of visiting a remarkably interesting

a* *'}}"' exhibition of heraldry, now to be seen at the

Edinburgh Exhibition, which for variety of
coloring, and quaintness of style and artistic blendings,
might never be seen again. The contributions have been
made by a large number of gentlemen, amongst whom is
Mr. Fred. A. Crisp, well known in the trade as a connoisseur
of. old English plate. Amongst others, notice might be
made of a remarkable specimen of heraldic blazonry, the
grant of arms to the Tallow Chandlers' Company, of
London, 1454, predating the earliest Scottish grant
by over a hundred years. As might be expected, the

exhibit covers a lot of ground connected with the
remarkable and almost mystic science of heraldry, includ-
ing heraldic costumes, tabards, Knightly decorations, &c,
numbering1 sonie 1,200 articles. There is also a fine
collection of heraldic literature published previous to 1750.

Speaking of Mr. Crisp reminds us of a new
ow silver two-volume work that has just been published

from the pen of the Rev. Andrew Trollope,
M.A., containing " an Inventory of the Church plate of
Leicestershire," a task over which the reverend gentleman
■ has labored for more than six years. There are six pieces
enumerated which predate the Reformation, and were
fortunate enough to escape destruction, viz., four patens
and a cup, the latter now used as a chalice, but probably
made for a pyx, bears the London Hall Marks for the years
1512 and 1513, which are to be found at Wymeswold. At
Blaston, St. Giles, probably the oldest chalice is to be
found, being supposed to be some twelve years earlier.
There is another remarkable mediaeval chalice existing at
Laund Abbey of foreign origin. Subsequent reigns are
also well represented, especially the Elizabethan. The
work gives thirty-three plates of illustrations, and much
valuable and useful information connected with Church
plate.

* * *

Imposers of import duties usually forget who
who Pa^ys it is have to pay the import duties, and the

effect the imposition has of raising the price,
not only of luxuries, but of what is indispensable in
ordinary life. A capital instance of this is afforded in
the case of silver tissue paper. Sleek as the American
inventor is, for twenty-five years he has been endeavouring
to produce such an article as Messrs. Robert Fletcher and
Son produce, but without the least success. Now the fore-
sighted policy of the McKinley Tariff provides a duty of
eight cents, per lb. and 15 per cent, "advalorem." This
has sent up the imported article nearly fifty per cent. ;
although the jewelers declare that if it cost four times the
. money, they would not be without it.

* # #

In many districts we are glad to see a move-
,, Earij^ ment is being successfully carried out to
iUs' ensure at least one day per week early closing.
In some localities it is two o'clock. In places with which
we are familiar every shop of every description closes at
that hour, showing that the only thing needful for such a
blessing is unity of action.

# * *

It appears that England is not the only place
The where the imports from Germany in our special

% n 1' I" 111 OH ■

Watciiianrt lines are on the increase. From the last issue

"Trade? °f the German trade archives, it appears the

increase in German clocks was 6,500, and also

that jewelry to the value of four and a quarter million

francs were imported from Germany into Switzerland.

# . * ■ #

Our contemporary the Optician lately called

what is attention to the fact that the chemists and

Optician *. druggists are encroaching on the province of

the optician's business to a greater extent than
ever. A very large portion of the spectacle trade in many
small towns is done by the local chemist. " This is, perhaps,
of little direct importance to wholesale and manufacturing
houses, but it is a lesson to the retail optician not to flag in
the study of his own science, and to duly impress his
possession of this knowledge upon the public. He must
also cultivate the acquaintance of the local medical men
and hospitals, for chemists and druggists have the greatest
facilities for getting the thin edge of the wedge in here.
Many retail opticians would be surprised at the amount of
business influenced by the exhibition of raw goods in their

August 1, 1891.]

THE WATCHMAKER. JEWELLEll AND SILVERSMITH.

windows. Nearly all the wholesale houses supply cards
showing 'the different processes employed in the manu-
facture of our spectacles.' Such a card favourably impresses
the public. We have seen as many as a dozen people at a
time standing before a retail optician's window in a busy
thoroughfare, in which was displayed a piece of ' rock
crystal ' with a knife-blade standing in an incision, ' show-
ing the method by which our axis pebbles are slit.'
Anything of this kind attracts notice, and it goes without
saying that the first business of a show-window is to attract
attention — the rest will follow." Nor are the druggists
alone in this. One often sees optical goods in the windows
of oilmen, stationers, ironmongers, brokers, and many
other shopkeepers ; and we think it is high time the danger
of allowing unqualified men to tamper with the- precious
eyesight should receive official attention. The sooner a
motion is set on foot, the same as in France, that no one
shall prescribe spectacles (any more than medicine) without
being duly qualified, the better for all concerned.
# * *

In an Essex village of some two to three
Iiu"oluuitji!1 thousand inhabitants, in a flourishing condi-
tion, chiefly engaged in the oyster fisheries, of
which savory morsels it produces the finest in the world,
there was not, at the time of which we speak, a professional
watchmaker. When the squire's clock went wrong, or the
labourer's watch got damaged, they were taken to an
oyster dredger, whose ingenuity had early evidenced itself
in the making a peep-show, and culminated in the art and
science of watch and clock repairing and cleaning. We
remember asking him how he repaired a broken spring, to
which he replied, "Sometimes I so'der 'em, sometimes
I rivet 'em, and sometimes dovetail 'em." We have
often thought of the ingenuity this man must have
employed ; but lately several cases have come to our
notice that entirely eclipses this. A gentleman who was
travelling in the interior of Japan broke the mainspring of
his watch, which he took to the nearest jeweler, a native
who lived in an obscure mountain village. Somewhat to
his surprise the watch was returned to him apparently in as
good running order as ever, and ran all right until the
rainy season set in, when it stopped. Being in the city of
Tokio at that time, he took the watch to an English work-
man, who, on making examination, was astonished to find
that the cunning Jap had put in a spring made of bamboo,
which, so long as it was kept dry, remained elastic, but
during the wet weather had gathered dampness and lost its
power. A far more ingenious thing is reported of a
prisoner at Kariaus, Bohemia, who it is said has constructed
a watch with no other tools or material than two needles, a
spool of thread, a newspaper, and some rye straw ; the
wheels, posts, and cogs are made of rye straw and thread,
and it is said it goes for six hours.

Ufte MariCetA.

-@S5S-

Owing to failing health Mr. James Bracebridge is retiring
from the business which he has carried on for many years
as watch manufacturer in Clerkenwell, under the style of
E. C. Bracebridge and Co. Mr. Bracebridge has appointed
his nephew, Mr. F. Bracebridge Mills, to settle his affairs.
There is, we believe, some likelihood that Mr. T. D.
Wright, who for many years has held the post of manager
to Mr. Bracebridge, will continue the business, and in this
event there is no doubt that the reputation the firm has
long enjoyed will be fully maintained in Mr. Wright's
hands.

Recently a Baldred of Kent silver penny realised £25
at Messrs. Southeby, Wilkinson, and Hodge's.

Feance and Spain have just agreed upon their gold
coinage being an international legal tender.

The ladies' committee for the Princess Mary Silver
Wedding presentation have selected a three-row pearl neck-
lace.

BOARD OF TRADE RETURNS.

The Board of Trade Returns for the United Kingdom
for the month ending June 30th are as follows : —

CLOCKS.

Imports. 1891. 1890. 1889.

From France £12,519 £13,808 £13,418

„ United States £8,789 £8,581 £6,143

„ Other Countries £17,676 £18,059 £13,352

Showing a decrease of £1,464.

WATCHES.

1891. 1890. 1889.

Total amount in June £49,774 £63,844 £51,991

Total decrease, £14,070.

DIAMONDS.

During the month there has been little alteration in the
prices of diamonds. We have, however, seen several large
parcels of melee offered for less than five pounds, a price
we do not often hear them quoted at now ; of course, it
was only very poor stuff ; still, at five guineas we saw
parcels of clean useable quality. The number of buyers
appeared to be quite up to the average, and anything fine
maintained its price. So far, the extra output of diamonds
has not influenced the market, nor do we at the present
moment think it is likely to do so.

In Amsterdam the demand is exceedingly limited, and as
a necessary consequence prices are unremunerative. Very
few foreign buyers are in the city, and factories are very
feebly occupied. The only new event during the month is
the creation of a New Diamond Trades Company, Limited,
with a capital of one million of florins. The first series of
250,000 florins is already subscribed for. According to
the statutes, which have obtained the Government appro-
bation, the object of the company is the buying and work-
ing of rough- diamonds, and selling the same. A loan
department is also combined with it. Mr. Alexander
Daniels, one of the oldest diamond merchants, is the chief
director of the company. This movement is in consequence
of the English cutting trade, before alluded to by us.

In Paris the trade in polished diamonds has not . been
very active. A few Americans visiting Paris, as a town on
their travelling programme, have been almost the only
buyers. There are accounts from the United States that
travellers from the jewelry houses are fairly on the
start now for the fall season, and that the prospects for
orders are fairly encouraging. There seems to be just now
a sufficiency of small stones on the market here, and middle
sizes seem to be more in favor.

SILVER.

The prices of silver have varied from day to day through
the whole of the month according as the demands from
the Continent were made or wanting ; the rises and falls,
however, were only very small, the price remaining at 45
and 46 all through the month. On going to press the
price stood at 46.

Copper has been steady, with a slight decline to about
£54 a ton.

Zinc has been steady, with a slight decline to about £26
a ton.

Spelter has been steady, with a slight decline to about
£23 15s. a ton.

Tin steady at £92 10s.

Quicksilver pretty steady at £7 15s.

No less than £222,000 worth of quicksilver were im-
ported into this country from Seville last year, showing an
unprecedented rise from £40,000.

;n;

THE WATCHMAKER, JEWELLER AND SILVERSMITH.

[August 1, 1891.

pofice ReoD^.

All our readers, we are sure, will share with the public
the surprise at hearing that Pinter, the gold making
swindler, although he pleaded guilty at the Old Bailey, has
been let off with the insignificant punishment of three
months' imprisonment.

The latest scene in the career of Bryce Wright is that
he has been extradited from Paris under a charge of
pawning a pair of earings, a brooch, bracelet, and necklet,
valued at £100, the property of Catherine Glubb, without
having the necessary authority to do so. Upon being
brought up at Malborough-street Police Court, Mr. Hannay
remanded him for eight days, refusing bail.

"William Giovanni Imperiali, jeweler, has been charged
at the Old Bailey, London, with a number of offences
under the Debtors' Act. Amongst other things it was
alleged that whilst in an insolvent condition he had
pledged a quantity of jewelry of considerable value,
obtained from some of his creditors. It was ascertained
that several creditors had subscribed towards the defence,
and that it was usual for a jeweler to hand jewelry over to
pawnbrokers, who sold the goods and arranged with the
supposed owner about the profit. The Recorder remarked
that, considering this, he would discharge the prisoner.

A little sensation was caused the other day in the
Garden by Julius Spitzer asserting that he had lost £3,500
worth of diamonds, which he had obtained from Lippnann
Krolik, 24, Hatton-garden, on the 20th of July. The
former having failed to return the stones on the day he took
them to show to an Australian house, the latter pro-
ceeded to the house where he was, and asked him where
were the diamonds, to which he replied, " I have lost
them." Krolik stayed at the house all night, and after
failing to discover anything further he gave Spitzer into
custody, and charged him at the Clerkenwell Police Court
with obtaining the goods by false and fraudulent pretences.
The prisoner, who made no answer to the charge, was
remanded.

One night recently a man called in Mr. Bennett's shop
and asked to be shown a clock which was hanging near the
door. Whilst Mr. Bennett was explaining the machanics
of the pendulum the man's accomplice entered and
abstracted a case containing sixty rings, worth £400.

Adolphus Amansey, alias William Williams, alias George
Williams, and Henry Russell, alias Lionel Le Royt, alias Jas.
Wesson, were charged at the Wilts Summer Assizes recently
with stealing three watches and three chains from the
shop of Adams Bros, at Swindon. Others were charged"
with receiving the goods, but the evidence against them
was not sufficient, and they were consequently discharged.
Amansey was sentenced to five years' penal servitude and
Russell to ten.

At the West London Police Court, Robert Mendon, of
Kensington, has been charged with obtaining jewelry to
the value of £38 10s. from Rudolph Warner, a traveller in
the employ of the Whitby Jet Company, by false pretences.
The case was that the prisoner receiyed the goods from the
prosecutor, and stated that he would pay for them at the
end of the month, saying that he was of good position but
could not at the time settle up. Prosecutor got two names
as references from him, but found they did not give state-
ments that were commercially satisfactory about the
prisoner, who would neither pay or give up the goods.
The present proceedings were then instituted. Prisoner's
counsel now said that his client was prepared to give up
the jewelry, whereupon the magistrate discharged him.

Thomas Smith, a watchmaker, of Huntgate, Lincoln, has
been sent to prison in default for twenty-one days because
he had pawned a watch entrusted to him to mend.

William R. Jacxson, watchmaker and jeweler, was
charged on July 14th at the Liverpool Police Court with
having dealt in plate without a proper licence. The
Supervisor, who prosecuted, remarked that the duty was
extensively evaded in Liverpool. Defendant admitted his
liability and was fined the sum of £2 16s. 6d., including
costs.

In 1889 three men stole two bars of silver from a rail-
way truck on its way from the American Exchange Bank,
valued at $1,928. Charles Seaton bought and melted
them, and the Supreme Court has now ordered him to
pay a sum equal to their value to the original owners.

Me. Arnold, successor to Mr. Hock, of the Northcote-
road, Battersea, has had his jewelry and watchmaking
establishment broken into and £40 of goods stolen.
Up to the present no trace of the burglar has been dis-
covered.

Two boys were recently charged with breaking into the
premises of Messrs. J. H. Shelly and Co., watchmakers,
Tugwell-row, Darlington, the magistrate binding their
fathers over in a sum of £10 each to send up the young
shopbreakers for judgment when called upon.

Albert Alexander was sentenced the other day to two
months' hard labor for stealing four ounces of scrap gold,
two ounces of scrap silver, and three gold brooches, from
his employers, Messrs. Hinde Brothers, 36, Hilton-street,
Birmingham.

About a fortnight ago, John Fitton, a watchmaker, of
Market-street, Heywood, was charged with burglariously
breaking and entering the shop of Joseph Burgess, grocer,
&c, his neighbour, early on the previous Sunday morning,
and stealing two bottles of whisky, one bottle ox port, and
one bottle of claret. As the prisoner had been in business
a great many years in the centre of the town, great interest
was taken in the case, and the court was crowded. It
appears that the grocer had for some time been missing
wines and spirits, and determined to watch. Seeing Fitton
enter by the back, he obtained assistance and sent for the
police, who subsequently found him concealed beneath the
stairs. It being ascertained that the occurrence took place
after six o'clock in the morning, the case resolved itself
into one of theft, and Fitton was fined ' ten pounds and
cost.

Henry Proffitt has been committed for trial at Bolton,
for sixteen cases of watch robbery committed under ex-
traordinary circumstances. Watches to the value of £50
were given him to repair, and he is alleged to have hired
several persons to pawn them for him, afterwards ab-
sconding with the proceeds to Liverpool.

Thomas Palmer and Ernest Edwards, jewelers, of no
fixed address, have been remanded at Exeter, charged with
obtaining, by false pretences, £30 from W. G. Rowden ;
Edwards being also charged with obtaining £35 from W.
H. Moore likewise by false pretences. Evidence was given
showing that the prisoners had advertised for money, and
obtained it without intending to pay it back.

Arthur Pennicott and Owen Stapley have been charged
at Chichester with stealing, on July 6th, a silver watch
from the person of Ernest Johnson at Nutbourne.
Johnson bought the watch from Pennicott on the instal-
ment system, and on the stipulation that it " went." The
machine, however, did not go, and hence the prosecutor
would not pay the balance of 6s. Thereupon the prisoners
"seized his person, and did abstract the watch." The
magistrates discharged the prisoners, believing that there
was no felonious intent.

John Higgins, jeweler, has been sent for trial at
Birmingham, charged with stealing two coal vases, a
couple of metal chains, and a set of studs from Thomas
Tumely, of Ludgate-hill. The- accused lodged with the
prosecutor, and took advantage of it to rob the shop.

August 1, 1891.]

THE WATCHMAKER, JEWELLER AND SILVERSMITH.

#ffux$frateiL #rv9errfionA J^ecarsL.

8,972.-
9,411.-
9,587.-
9,598.-

9,644.-

10,214

10,234
10,254
10,479

cuffs,

APPLICATIONS FOR PATENTS.
-R. S. Barrie, Dundee, " Links for shirt sleeves,

cloaks, ifcc." 27th May, 1891.
-H. Davies, London, " Watch protectors." 3rd Jtme,

1891.
-A. Myers and L. Myers, Birmingham, " Compasses and

toy microscope combined." 6th June, 1891.
-W. L. Wise, London (communicated by A. L. Smith,

United States), " Gauges for centering lenses and

making other optical instruments." 6th June, 1891.
— W. W. Horn, London (communicated by J. Metz,

J. W. Mitchell, and H. L. Aulls, United States),

" Necktie fasteners." 6th June, 1891.
, — 0. Beck, London, "Drilling the jewel-holes or bearings

of watches and analogous mechanism." 16th June,

1891.
, — J. H. Stewart and H. E. Smyth, London, " Brooch

fasteners." 17th June, 1891.
— R. B. Smith, London, '■ Brooch fastenings." 17th June,

1891.
. — J. Abrahams, London, " Politura, a liquid compound,

for cleansing, restoring, or polishing articles in gold,

&c." 19th July, 1891.

Electric Alarm-Clock. — E. M. Edgerto, Chicago, 111.

The combination, with a clock A, an arm F, projecting
from and revolving with the arbor of the hour-hand, and a
battery connected to the same, of a series of insulated

"" T

metal strips radially arranged around said arbor, with
which said arm successively comes in contact, switch-board
G, with one of each pair of contact-plates of which said
strips are respectively connected, a key h, and an audible
signal.

Jewel-support for Balance-Staffs of Watches. —

Jules Villon, Lima, Peru.

In a watch-movement, the combination, with the com-
pensation balance and its staff, of the socketed jewels
receiving the pivots of the staff, the settings containing
jewels and provided with bevelled peripheries, the supports
having circular recesses which present annular seats on
which said bevelled peripheries bear, and springs arranged
to hold the settings on their seats with a yielding pressure,
as set forth. In a watch-movement, the combination, with

the compensation balance and its staff, of the cap-jewels
movable endwise of the staff, the springs holding cap-jewels
in their free ends, the hole jewel socketed to receive the
pivots of the staff, the bevelled settings holding the hole-

jewels and movable edgewise therewith, and the support
having the recesses j f constituting seats which support
the bevelled peripheries of said settings, the springs bearing
loosely at their free ends on the settings of the hole-jewels and
holding the same yieldingly against their seats, as set forth.

Pendant-set Watch. — Roswell L. Peabody, New ■
York, U.S.

In a pendant winding and setting watch, the yoke G,
carrying the winding and setting train and partially
rotating cam K, serving as an intermediate member, the
lever M for operating such cam to change the winding and
setting mechanism from the hand-setting condition to the
winding, as required, and having the bent arm M' engaged
with the operating- collar D2 on the stem, all combined and
arranged to serve substantially as herein specified. The
yoke G, carrying the train of winding and setting
mechanism and having the bent arm G' and actuating

spring J, in combination with the cam K and spring L,
acting on the stud K2, arid with the lever M M' and the
stem D, Laving the collar: D2 and arranged to be moved
endwise as well as rotated, as set forth. A pull-stem D D'
a spring-head C, operated by thrusting the stem and
adapting the mechanism to serve in a hunting-case, and
the lever M, cam K, intermediate between the lever and
the yoke, said cam carrying the pins K2 and K3, and the
actuating spring L, in combination with each other and
with the yoke G and its operating-spring J and the gearing
for winding and setting, all arranged to serve substantially
as herein specified.

Stop-Watch. — Charles Schlatter, Hoboken, N.J.
The combination, with the pinions arranged in different
vertical and horizontal planes, of oscillating pinions arranged

between the same and
movable out of en-
gagement with both
of said pinions, sub-
stantiallyas described.
The frame F', pivoted
at one end, and the
shaft F, jouinalled
therein and formed or
provided with a stud
if, in combination with
the intermediate wheel
E, substantially as
described. The frame
F', provided with the
shaft F, having arm
//' and intermediate
wheel E, in combina-
tion with the lever H
: and means for operat-
ing the same for
...turning the shaft
and the intermediate wheel, substantiall y as described. The
Frame F', pivoted at one end and cut a way at j"2, and the
shaft F, journalled in said frame and provided with the
intermediate wheel and the arm //', in .combination with
the spring g, lever H, avid the ratchet- w. heel J, provided
with the studs.;', substantially as described*

THE WATCHMAKER, JEWELLER AND SILVERSMITH.

[August 1, 1891.

(fkafette;.

£6,292 16s. Id. ; estimated assets,

Bankruptcy Record.

BLYTH, Henry John. IB, St. Nicholas-terrace, Caister-road,
and late 15. North Howard-street, Great Yarmouth, watch-
maker.

£ s. d,
Loveridge and Sons ... ... ... London 17 0 0

Leigh and Co. ... ... ... ... Birmingham 11 15 1

May, Walter ... ... ... ... Yarmouth 15 0 0

Total Estimated Debts— £99 13s. 7d.

Cameron, Peter, 39, Winfield-road, Blackman-lane, Leeds,
restaurant carver, late watchmaker. First meeting :
Official Receiver's, Leeds, July 15.

£ s. d.

Gilvend, William Leeds 78 0 0

Herbert, W. R „ 40 0 0

Longbottom, Alfred „ 20 0 0

Wads-voith, Mary Silsden 50 0 0

Total Estimated Amount— £240.

Hettish, Gordon, 14, Magdalen-street, Exeter, watchmaker and
jeweler. Receiving Order : July 15. First meeting :
Official Receiver's, Exeter, July 29. Examination : Castle,
Exeter, July 30. Adjudication : July 16.

Jackson, Lazarus (formerly trading as F. L. Jackson and as J.
Jackson), 12, Thornton-place, Bishopwearrnouth, watch-
maker. Receiving Order and Adjudication: July 15.

Jefferson, John Edwin and William Jefferson (trading as
Jefferson Brothers), 68, Low-street, Keighley, watchmakers
and jewelers. Adjudication : June 24.

Leadbeater, John, 14, Derby-street, Huhne, Manchester,
watchmaker.

£ s. d.

Jacobs, — ... .. ... ... ... London 10 0 0

Sckaffer, — „ 10 13 0

Bosson, Thurston ... ... ... Garston 27 0 0

Ostler, John Edward '. Huhne 22 0 0

Kennedy, Dr Manchester 10 0 0

Pavne, George „ 10 0 0

Vigier, N Soleure 28 0 0

Preferential Creditor.
Ostler, John Huhne 11 0 0

Rosenberg, Esther, 162, St. Paul's-road, Canonbury, N.,
London, jeweler.

Graham and Co

Whiteley, William ...

Barker Bros. ...

Cox Bros.

Jackson Bros.

Mole and Jones ... ..:

Neale, W

Nock and Saunders ...

Payton, W. H

Swain and Adams
Wakefield Bros.
Whitehouse, E.

Denyler, L. M

Fully-Secured Creditors

Partly- Secured Creditors.
Loach Bros. ... ... ... ... Birmingham 108 14 6

(Estimated value of security, £31 14s.)

Rosenberg, Joseph ... Cork 71 18 0

(Estimated value of security, £32 5s.)

Liabilities on Bills, &c 284 12 7

(Not expected to rank.)

Deeds of Arrangements.

Abrahall. M. J., and Co. (Michael John Abrahall, trading as),
11, Pitsford-street, Birmingham, and residing at Jhrchiield-
road, Handsworth, manufacturing jeweler. Trustee :
Allen Edwards, Birmingham, C.A., with a committee of
inspection. Secured creditors, £2,037. Filed July 7th ;

... London

... ,,

Birmingham

391

»?

... Nenviile

...

218

unsecured liabilities,
£3,730 ,8s. 7d.

Backes and Strauss ...
Isaacs, A. M. J.

Steitz, F

Whitehorn, E.
Applebv, and Co.
Atkins,' F. W.
Booth and Son

Court, G

Cox Bros.
Goldsmid, M. J.
Haseler and Milner ...
Hinde Bros. ...
James Bros. ...
Johnstone, G. H, and Co.
Levi and Salaman ...
Myers, W. and G. ...

Mills, E. J

Potosi Silver Co.
Padmore, John
Peyton and Son
Pettefer, A. R., and Co.
Robinson, — ...
Spiers, and Co.
Smith and Ewen
Spencer, W....
Thorney work, —
Tandy and Rudge
Villiers and Jackson...
Moore, Joseph
Abrahall, A. J.
Fentham's Trust

Birmingham, electro-plater.

Bourne, Henry ...
Butcher, Ann Maria

Ratcliffe, J.F

Tyszack, Mank, and Co.
Vale, Frederick ...
Bankers' Claims

De Losada, Jose R. (Francisco del Riego, trading as), 105
Regent-street, W., watch manufacturer. Trustee : John
Manger (Mojon, Manger, and Co.), 26 and 27, Bartlett's-
buhdrngs, Holborn-circus, E.C., watch and musical box
manufacturer, with a committee of inspection. Filed July
23rd ; unsecured liabilities, £2,419 ; estimated assets,
£4,000.

Del Riego, Francisco, Regent-street (see J. R. de Losada).

£ s. d.

Mojon, Manger, and Co London 365 10 6

Tripplin, Juliens ... ... ,, 93 17

Rawley, A. and H ,, 48

Tathain, Oblen, and Nash „ 300

Dinner Bros. ... ... ... ... ,, 59

Monteigo ,, 100

Hall, HE „ 160

GiUett and Co Croydon 250

Bonhote Freres Peseux

£ s. d.

... London

678 3 8

... ,,

715 15 6

130 0 0

114 5 0

Birmingham

55 14 6

36 18 6

29 14 0

100 0 0

51 4 9

„

81 4 6

136 15 9

78 11 8

45 2 6

26 4 8

59 9 1

46 0 0

20 4 6

33 17 7

1,256 0 0

192 11 9

30 7 0

29 3 5

35 12 0

150 9 7

54 8 0

»)

63 16 4

))

58 10 6

29 17 6

67 0 0

100 0 0

3), 3, Mary Ann-street,

£ s. d.

. Birmingham

26 2 3

Blackpool

436 1 6

. Birmingham

14 13 4

Sheffield

13 9 1

• ))

19 10 8

• )!

12 16 10

695 17

Horsfall, Francis Joseph, 26a, Guildford-street, Leeds, and
lodging at 5, Eltham-grove, Woodhouse, Leeds, watchmaker
and jeweler. Trustee : Myles Lee, Calverley-chambers,
Victoria- square, Leeds, C.A. Filed July 20 ; liabilities,
£77 2s. lid. ; assets, £62.

£ s. d.

Abraham, Julius Bradford 17 16 3

Cohen, Laurence, and Co London 15 17 6

Norman, Henry, 27, Buckingham Palace-road, Pimlico, S-W.,
jewelers. Partners: Henry Norman, 92, Par chmore -road,
Thornton-heath, S.W., and George Swainston Norman, 104,
Denbigh-street, Pimlico, S.W. Trustees: Warren Faraday,
66, Hatton-garden, E.C., wholesale jeweler, and another.
Secured creditors, £723 18s. 8d. Filed July 13th; un-
secured liabilities, £2,558 19s. Od. ; estimated assets,
£1,277 12s. lid.

£ s. d.

Ayres, T. R London 304 17 6

Bromwich, Edwin ... ... ■•• i> 126 8 1q

August 1, 1891.]

THE WATCHMAKER, JEWELLER AND SILVERSMITH.

BuHer, Hutchinson
Chaplin and Sons

Dyke, William

Farraday and Davey
Fenton Bros.
Fowler, James ...

Gay, Lamaille, and Co

Jacobs, Aaron

Johnson, G. W

Mackrell, E. T

Mossop and Kolfe
Norman, J.

Perrier, M. A

Sneath, E. H

London 65 18 0

107 4 4

47 15 10

303 7 7

104 4 4

55 0 0

210 0 5

71 0 0

159 9 0

45 10 0

723 18 8

656 6 4

85 16 0

52 10 0

Weight, Robert, 111, Mill-street, Macclesfield, watchmaker and
jeweler. Trustee : George Ibeson, 76, Derby-street, Maccles-
field, C.A. Filed July 18 ; liabilities, £73 5s. 5d. ;
assets, £35.

£ s. d.

Macclesfield 15 14 11

Oldham 13 5 10

Manchester 17 0 0

Anighi and Branchi
Hirst, A. and S. ...
Myers, J.

Private Meeting.

Hodgson, C. Dewsbury, jeweler.

£ s. d.

Alabaster and Wilson Birmingham 47 16 7

Bendon, George, and Co. ... ... ... London 61 5 4

Briggs and Co ... Sheffield 36 17 0

Evans and Brown ... Birmingham 53 14 0

Fitter, H, and Son „ 31 5 0

Foster, J. and T Manchester 32 19 1

Graham, J. H, and Co Birmingham 42 12 0

Griffiths, H., and Son „ 117 6 0

Jerome and Co. ... Liverpool 48 16 0

Manton and Mole Birmingham 38 0 9

Marks, A. and J Manchester 37 0 0

Nixon, C. E „ 33 19 0

Parker, J., and Son „ 26 13 5

Rotherham and Son Coventry 51 9 6

Schaffer, Sons, and Co ... ,, 25 0 0

Skinner, John Birmingham 28 13 0

Stauffer, Sons, and Co ,, 37 19 0

Walker and Hall Manchester 63 0 11

Williamson, H Birmingham 127 16 7

Woodward and Co ,, 42 10 3

Wankers' Claims , 270 0 0

Liabilities.

Less estimated value of securities ... 170 0 0
Partly secured creditors ... ... £'270 0 0

Unsecured creditors ...

Assets.

Book debts (estimated to produce)...
Fixtures and fittings, about...
Stock at cost price

1,333 12 6

100 0 0

1,433 12 6

30 0 0

100 0 0

1,077 2 0

1,207 2 0
Less amount to be paid in full for rent, rates,

taxes, and wages ... 70 5 0

Deficiency

1,136 17
296 15

1,433 12 6

At a meeting of the creditors herein, held on the 14th inst.,
the creditors present resolved to accept a composition of 10s. in
the £, payable at 3, 6, 9, 12, 15, and 18 months, the last three
payments secured.

Bills of Sale.

Allan, Ernest, 41, Edith-road, Cape-hill, Smethwick, and 24,
Warstone-lane, Birmingham, watchmaker and repairer.
In favour of James F. Townend. Filed June 24. £30.

Beddow, William Henry, 10, 55, 57, & 59 High-street, Wem,
Salop. Of stock-in-trade, &c, at 10, 57, & 59 High-street,
aforesaid, jeweler. In favour of John Nield. Filed July 20.
£80.

Bkims, John, 8, Leverton-street, Kentish-town-road, silversmith.
In favour of David N. Brims. Filed June 24. £30.

Harris, James Walter, 54, Barnsbury-street, Islington, N.,
jewel-case maker. In favour of the Lon. & West. Loan Co.
Filed June 26. £30.

Lacey, Thomas, 23, Carlyle-road, Lozells, Aston, near Birming-
ham, jeweler. In favour of Alfred Selman. Filed July 11.
Settlement in trust for wife, &c.

Lindow, Joseph, 72, Highbury New-park, Canonbury, N., and
105, Hatton-garden, E.C., diamond dealer. In favour of
Frederick Lewis. Filed July 8. £100 of household
furniture.

Lindow, Joseph, 72, Highbury New-park, Canonbury, N., and
105, Hatton-garden, E.C., diamond dealer. In favour of
Frederick Lewis. Filed July 15. £200, absolute sale of
household furniture.

Maze, Ernest, 5, Noel-street, Islington, N., jeweler. In favour of
Charles G. Lodge. Filed July 15. £32.

Norcross, Frank, 58, Ashton New-road, Manchester, watch-
maker and jeweler. In favour of Abraham Haigh. Filed
June 25. £97.

Norcross, Frank, 58, Ashton New-road, Manchester, watch-
maker and jeweler. In favour of Abraham Haigh. Filed
July 16. Absolute assignment.

Nyburg, Nathan Simon, 44, Marquess-road, Canonbury,
London, N., dealer in jewelry, silver, and precious stones.
In favour of Jacques N. Nyburg and another. Filed July
20. £170.

Dividends.

Cohen, Bobert, late 2, Crimbles-street, at present in lodgings,
jeweler's assistant. Discharge granted unconditionally.

Robinson, Claude, 49, Westborough, Scarborough, jeweler and
fancy dealer. First and final dividend of 4s. 8d. at Official
Receiver's, Scarborough.

Partnerships Dissolved.

Harris, L. & Co., Fuencarral 24, Pral Dra, Madrid, and 35,

Hatton-garden, London, E.C., diamond merchants. June 1.

Debts by Lionel Harris, who continues under the same

style.
Planet Watch Co., 89, Clarence-road, Clapton, watch

manufacturers. May 1. Debts by William Sammes.
Saunders Bros. & Greaves, 3, Augusta-street, Birmingham,

manufacturing jewelers. June 25. Debts by Walter James

Saunders and John Saunders.
Smith, J. J. & Co., 93, High-street, Putney, S.W., jewelers and

dealers in fancy goods. June 3. As regards Joseph James

Smith.

Mr. Harris, jeweler, of Leith Walk, recently sought to
recover £50 from the North British Railway Company, for
unlawful ejectment from a train at Haymarket Station. The
case for trie plaintiff was that he collected the tickets from
the passengers in the same compartment and gave them
to the collector, who afterwards found that one shilling
was due on one, and asked the plaintiff for payment ;
this was refused, and the company's servants thereupon
ejected him from the carriage. It was argued that by
collecting other passengers' tickets the plaintiff was not
made answerable for their deficiencies. After proof, judg-
ment was given for the plaintiff, with £25 damages and
costs. The railway company have just appealed, and the
appeal has been dismissed with costs, Lord Justice Clerk
observing that the position of the defendants was a startling
one.

A disastrous fire occured at the well-known bell foundry
of Messrs. Taylor and Sons, Loughboro, Leicester, on the
23rd of June, by which nearly the entire place was
destroyed. The fire originated in a lower room where
some oil was stored, and, owing to a bad supply of water,
could not be got under. The damage is estimated at about
£4,000, and is only partly covered by insurance.

THE WATCHMAKER, JEWELLER AND SILVERSMITH.

[August 1, 1891.

LETTERS TO THE EDITOR.

THE REVIVAL OF HERALDRY.

To tin' Editor of The Watchmaker, Jeweller and
Silversmith.

Sir, — There has appeared a tendency of late on the part
of purchasers of gold and silver work to recognise Heraldry
;is an art which has hcen too much neglected, and which
ought to receive more patronage with a view to its adoption
as one of the most suitahle and appropriate subjects for the
decoration of articles made in gold and silver.

For many centuries Heraldry has been regarded as a
branch of knowledge which could on no account be
neglected by any who had pretensions to nobility of
ancestry. It has been the means of preserving the memory
of great deeds and high honours, and of showing the
several connections which one family bears to another. For
these reasons Heraldry is of great service in enabling people
to trace at a glance something of the history and pedigree
of noble and ancient families. To gain an idea of the im-
portance attached to Heraldry in the past one has only to
visit Westminster Abbey, or any of the ancient cathedrals,
to see how profusely it is applied in perpetuating the
memories of greatness and nobility. Every baronial hall,
too, is teeming with examples of Heraldry, where may be
found almost every branch of art-work ; stained-glass
windows, stone and wood carvings, paintings on canvas
and parchment, and nearly always engravings on the old
family plate.

Unfortunately for the Heraldic engraver's art, it became
the fashion a few years since to have silver plate orna-
mentally engraved over nearly the entire surface, which
left but little room for the insertion of Heraldic devices ;
but, thanks to the change of fashion in silver ware, the
articles are now manufactured without so much meaning-
less ornamentation — generally, in fact, left quite plain —
and there is consequently more scope now for the Heraldic
engraver. Six or seven years ago the Goldsmiths' Com-
pany offered prizes for the best engraving of the Prince of
Wales's Arms and Ensignia, to fill the space of a seven-
inch circle. The wardens of the company felt that that
was the kind of work which ought to be encouraged, and the
public taste of the present day is certainly inclining to the
same opinion, judging by the bolder styles of Heraldic
work which are now being orderedin the silversmiths' trade.
— I am, Sir, yours obediently. James W. Jenkins.

56, Lady Somerset Road,

Highgate Road, N.W.

R. J. R., Barnard Castle. — We have succeeded after
some trouble in recovering the gong, and have posted it
to your address. We cannot obtain a satisfactory reason
for its detention ; but, as you have been before informed,
the advertisement has now been withdrawn.

E. Meylan, Port Perie, South Australia. — In answer
to your first question, we should hardly like to say what
book we think would best suit you ; as none covers the
whole of the field mentioned. We should recommend
you to commence the study of optics on a scientific basis,
and as such should advise you, say, " Garnot's Physics " ;
that would give you a good idea of the science that under-
lies it all, together with the various lines along which
the different branches of optical science have been developed,
With reference to the second question, we should un-
hesitatingly say " Saunier's Treatise of Modern Horology "
(£2 2s.), which is the most complete of any work at our
tongue, and there are few wants likely to occur, unless
very special, that cannot be met by it. Of course, there
are several other good handbooks, but only about a third
or a quarter as complete (and expensive) as this.

J. Wilkins. — Such an arrangement as you describe is

already in existence and patented, and known as New-
some's patent safety wheel for going barrels ; and, although
in minute details his differs a little from yours, we consider
his the more simple, and as quite forestalling yours.

W. Leverson. — The red gold mounts employed by the
firm you mention are not their own manufacture ; they are
French make. The firm has a house in Paris, who has an
opportunity of getting very fine things in this line.
Further, there is now quite a number of French firms who
are sending travellers over here with these mounts.
Mounts lor Christmas things are now in the market, but it
is impossible to say what is going to take. At present we
do not consider anything very special has appeared.

J. S. T. — So far as we have been able to judge, there are
quite as many American tourists this year as usual, but
from inquiries in numerous directions they do not seem to
be laying out such large sums (at any rate in jewelry) as
they do sometimes.

" Retailer." — Although we answer correspondents and
allow their letters to appear under whatever form- they like
to sign, we do not do so unless their communication or
question is accompanied by their correct name and address ;
consequently we are unable to publish your letter in reply
to " Bankruptcy v. Private Arrangements," unless you
furnish the information required.

D. Tunks, Accrington. — From your description of your
going barrel we should think it is something more than
the patent recorded in the last issue of this journal, but
are surprised that you should keep it lying by for so many
years, and thus give later inventors the chance of super-
ceding you. We should be pleased, however, to see your
barrel, and might then be able to give you advice.

eKppfieation^) oj? t^e (ifuonograpfi.

Everyone is familiar with the gradually diminishing circle
surrounding the outer edge of some chronographs which
marks the rate at which a train is travelling when passing
from one quarter mile post to another ; or a trotting horse,
when passing by milestones, by dividing the number shown
by four. One of the next steps in this direction is that of
finding the distance in a rifle range by taking the sound to
travel 880 yards in a second, then dividing off the dial into
divisions representing hundreds of yards. For example —
taking the transit of the flash to be instantaneous, which it
practically is, on its appearance by pressing the stud, the
chronograph hand is set in motion. Upon receiving the
report, say a little over a second and a quarter later, the
stud is pressed down again, and the chronograph stopped,
marking 500 yards as the range. Of course, it must be
borne in mind these can only be approximate, as the rate
at which the ball travels, and also the influence of the wind,
are important factors. Varieties of the same method enable
one to calculate the distance off of a man whom one either
sees and hears fire, or sees fire and hears the ball hit, can
easily be made. A far more exact example of the same
application can be employed in measuring the distance of a
thunderstorm, as in that instance the lightning and
thunder are produced simultaneously, and the space of time
elapsing between the receipt of the two represents the
distance the storm is off, which, in many instances, is of
the greatest importance, as when less than a certain
distance off the earth, the strike occurs from cloud to earth,
or from earth to cloud, causing the usual well known
disasters.

Or the six English tourists drowned near Victoria,
Vancouver, three are from Northwich, namely, Mr. J. H.
Edwards, and his two sons, Horace and Frederick. Mr.
Edwards had been in business as a jeweler at Northwich
for a number of years, and left five weeks ago with two of
his four boys for Vancouver, intending to settle there.

August 1, 1891.]

THE WATCHMAKER, JEWELLER AND SILVERSMITH.

BUYERS' GUIDE

ARTISTIC SILVER SUNDRIES.

Pringle Robert & Co. actual Makers (not merely
Factors) at their Steam Works,40 and 42, Clerkenwell
Road. Children's Cans,Salt Cells and Spoons, Serviette
Rings, Apostle and Coffee Spoons, Cups, Goblets,
Mustard Pots and Spoons : Muffineers, Cream Jugs,
Sugar Basins, Tea Spoons, Medals, and Alberts, duty-
free. Old Gold and Silver bought in any quantity
for melting at the highest market price. Silver
Goods sent out on approbation.
Pringle Robert & Co. actual Makers (not merely
Factors) at their Steam Works, 40 and 42, Clerkenwell
Road . Children's Cans, Salt Cells and Spoons, Serviette
Ring-, Apostle and Coffee Spoons, Cups, Goblets,
Mustard Pots and Spoons : Muffineers, Cream Jugs,
Sugar Basins, Tea Spoons, Medals, and Alberts, duty
free. Old Gold and Rilvor bought in any quantity
for melting at the highost market price. Silver
Goods sent out on approbation. — See Advt.

BAROMETER AND COMPASS
MANUFACTURERS.

Barker Francis & Son 12, Clerkenwell Road, London,
Wholesale Manufacturers of Pocket and Charm
Compasses, Aneriod Barometers. 6un Dials, etc.
Illustrated Trade Catalogue free on application.

BOX MAKER.

Kettle, F. G. 9. New Oxford Street, and 11, Kingsgate
Street, London, W.C. Send for Price List, post free.

CHRONOMETER MANUFACTURERS.

Oram George & Son 19, Wilmington Square, Clerken-
well. Marine and Pocket Chronometers, all kinds
of first-class Keyless Lever Watches, Chronographs,
Repeaters, and Regulators always in stock.

Isaac H. P. Chronometer and Watch Maker to the
Admiralty, 10, Spencer Street, Clerkenwell, London,
B.C. Marine and Pocket Chronometers, Adjusted
Levers, plain and Keyless. All kinds of fine watches

CLOCK MANUFACTURERS.

Smith John & Sod, Midland Steam Clock Works, Derby.

Wilkins John & Co. H, St. John Street Road, Clerken-
well.

DIAMOND POLISHERS.

Ford & Wright Steam Lapidary Works, Diamond
Cutters and Polishers, Gem Cutters and Lapidaries
in all brauches, 18 and 19, Clerkenwell Green and
Clerkenwell Road.

ELECTRO GILDERS AND PLATERS.

Horton J. & Son 80. High Street, Whitechapel, London,
one of the oldest and best firms for Gilding and
Plating. Established 1834.

Peck & Levett Water and Electro Gilders aad Platers,
16, St. John's Square, Clerkenwell, Lacquerers,
Oxydizers and Bronzers. Cheapest housd in the
Trade. Price Lists on application.

ENGRAVERS.

Mitchell & Cooper Heraldic, Monogram, Inscription,
and Generaf Engravers to the Trade, 58, Great
Sutton Street, Clerkenwell, London. Articles
engraved while customers wait.

GOLD AND SILVER DIAL

MANUFACTURERS.

Elston Richard & Sons 24, Myddelton Street, London.
Dials to Wycherley & Co.'s movements and other
makes in stock. Half covers enamelled. Jobbing
Department : Special attention to Case and Dial
Repairs and Renewals. Established nearly 100 years .

GOLD & SILVER REFINERS.

Harrold Chas. & Co. 2 and 3, St. Paul's Square, Bir-
mingham.— See Advt.

The Sheffield Smelting Company Limited Sheffield,

Sell Gold and Silver (refined and alloyed). Buy all

materials containing Gold and Silver.
Westwood C. & Sons 14, Hall Street, Birmingham.—

see Advt.
Day Edward 28, Warstone Lane, Birmingham.— See

Advt.

GOLDSMITHS, MANUFACTURING.

Bragg T. & J. Vittoria Street, Birmingham, and
15,' Thavies Inn, London, Goldmiths, Jewellers,
Diamond Mounters, Art Silversmiths. By Special
Appointment to Her Majesty the Queen. Royal
and other Orders and Insignia, Mayoral Chains,
Maces. Corporate Seals, Caskets, Keys, Swords.
Masonic Jewellers.

Ginder Walter J. 47, Frederick Street, Birmingham.—
See Advt.

Lucas Brothers 22, Hylton Street, Birmingham.— See
Advt.

Saunders & Shepherd Bartlett's Passage Buildings,
Holborn Circus, London. — See Advt.

Sydenham, A. 26, Frederick Street, Birmingham.— See
Advt.

GOLD WATCH CASE MAKERS.

W- Heal 27, Craven Street, Coventry.

JET, ORNAMENT MANUFACTURER.

Jones E. A. Wholesale Manufacturer of Whitby Jet
Ornaments. A large assortment of the Newest
Patterns always in stock. Export Orders promptly
executed. Persons not having an account open will
avoid delay by forwarding a reference with their
order. Customers" Matchlngs and Repairs with
despatch. 93, Hatton Garden, London, E.C.

JEWELLERS, MANUFACTURING.

Baches. & Strauss Limited 64, Holbom Viaduct,
London. — Ste Advt.

Goode J. & Sons Regent Place, Birmingham.— See

Advt.

Greenberg I. S. & Co. 22, Vyse Street, Birmingham.—

See Advt.
Jones T. Walter 48-50, Hylton Street, Birmingham.—

See Advt.

Reading N. C. & Co. Warstone Lane, Birmingham.—
See Advt.

Scott A. 62, Summer Hill Road, Birmingham. — See
Advt.

JEWELLERS, WHOLESALE.

Cooper H. J. & Co. Oxford Street, London. — See Advt.
Walter W. H. Newgate St.eot, London.— See Advt.

JEWELLERS' ROUGE MANU-
FACTURERS.

BlO.vn James & Co. Exeter, Manufacturers of the
finest qualities, chemically pure. Satisfaction guaran-
teed. Packed to suit all buyers. Samples and quota-
tions free. Agents wanted calling upon buyers.

MASONIC JEWELLER.

Kenning G. little Britain and Alders ato Muvnr,
London. — Sec Advt.

OPTICIANS, WHOLESALE.

Botwright & Grey 13, Spencer Street, Clerkenwell
London.— See Advt.

Raphael J. & Co. 13, Oxford Street, London.— See Advt

RING (GOLD) MANUFACTURER.

Hope S. 126, Vyse Street, Birmtnghim.— See Advt.

SAFE MANUFACTURERS.

Chubb & Sons Limited Queen Victoria Street, Lon-
don.
Tann J. Newgate Street, London.

SILVERSMITHS, MANUFACTURING.

Round J. & Son Limited, Tudor Works, Sheffield
and Holborn Circus, London. — See Advt.

Willis Mark & Son Rockingham Street, Sheffield.—
See Advt.

WATCH JORRER.

Ockenden S. Chronometer and Watch Jobber to the
Trade, 155, Goswell Road, London, E.C. Staffs,
Pinions, Cylinders, Conversions, etc. Prlco List on
application. Established 1887

WATCH MANUFACTURERS.

Baume & Co. 21, Hatton Garden, London, Coventry,
and Switzerland. — See Advt.

Clemence Freres H, Southampton Row, London, and
Switzerland. — See Advt.

Guye P. & A. Farringdon Road, London. — See Advt.

Hargreaves J. & Co. Wholesale Watch Manufacturers,
17, Norton Street, London Road, Liverpool. Makers
to Her Majesty the Queen, and H.R.H. the Prince
of Wales.

Newsome & Co. The Butts, Coventry. — See Advt.

Rotherham & Sons Coventry and London. — See Adot.

Stauffer Son & Co. 13, Charterhouse Street, London
and Switzerland. — See Advt.

Usher & Cole 105, St. John Street "Road, London.
Makers to the Admiralty. — See Advt.

Vine T. W- (late Thompson and Vine) 85, Aldersgate
Street, E.C. 'English Keyless Watch (London-
made) Manufacturer, Swiss Watch Importer, and
Wholesale Jeweller.

Waltham Watch Company Holborn Circus, London-
See Advt.

WATCH MATERIALS.

Grimshaw & Baxter Goswell Road, London.— See
Advt.

Haswell R. & Sons Spencer Street, Clerkenwell,
London. — See Advt.

Swinden & Sons Temple Street, Birmingham— See
Adot.

WATCH REPAIRERS.

Thiele E. 31, Vyse Street, Birmingham, Watch Re-
pairer to the Trade. New parts replaced quickly.
Special attention to Jewellery repairs. Price List
on application.

Le Freimann and Co., Watchmakers and Repairers
to the Trade, 49, Albion Street, Birmingham.
Watches of any make perfectly demarjnetined by
a specially made alternating current machine ; no
parts softened or altered ; returned same duy as
received. Fee 2s.

THE WATCHMAKER, JEWELLER AND SILVERSMITH.

[August 1, 1891.

MR. FREDK. B. BOX,

J^gcnt for the disposal of Hlatclrmnkrs'
nnb Muellers' businesses.

SPECIAL FEATURE.— No charge whatever

unless a Sale is effected, and no charge

to Purchasers.

Valuations made on Moderate Terms.

HIGHEST REFERENCES.

(Offices :
6, THAVIES INN, HOLBORN CIRCUS, E.C.

Mr. Box is instructed to sell the following
Businesses :

1. Electro-plating-. Electro and Water

Gilding. "Wholesale Electro-plate. Clock, and
Material business in Clerkenwell. Rent for
commodious premises £130 on lease. Nett
profits .£1,500 a year. £4,000 to £5.000 re-
quired. Purchase arranged with £3,000.

2. Watchmaker's and Jeweller's in

the West End. Established many years ;
average returns £3.000, principally sales at
excellent profits. About £4,000 required.
■Worth prompt attention.

3. Watchmaker's and Jeweller's, in

good district. S.E. Rent £60 on lease. Returns
£1.000 ; large jobbing connection through-
out England. Proof nett profits £0,000 year.
About £1,200 required. Ill health sole cause
of sale.

4. Watchmaker's and Jeweller's in

busy town in the Midlands (Leicestershire),
in same hands many years. Proprietor re-
tiring, will let the premises, his own freehold,
on advantageous terms. Returns about
£1,400. Purchase arranged with £1,500.

5. Watchmaker's and Jeweller's in

charming district on the banks of the
Thames. Rent on lease £72, commodious
house lets off in the summer to more than
pays rent. Same hands over 20 years ; pro-
prietor retiring on ample fortune. About
£800 required.

6. Watchmaker's and Jeweller's in

thriving town in Lincolnshire. Rent only
£36 on lease, large house over. Returns
£1,000 to £1 100 at good profits. Stock and
fixtures about £1,000, or will reduce to £500.

7. Watchmaker's and ' Jeweller's in

quiet seaside town on South Coast. Premises
well situate in the High Street. Rent on
lease, 14 years unexpired, only £22 ; good
house accommodation/ Returns £8 a week.
Stock and fixtures at valuation about £350.

8. Watchmaker's and Jeweller's in

good W.O. district. Rent on leasa £60 ;
nppor portion let off more than pays rent.
Good connect'on trade. Returns about
£1,000. Purchase money £1,000. arranged
with 6500.

Watchmaker's and Jeweller's in

busy Seaside Town, one hour from JU-mdon.
very commanding premises in center the High
.Street. Lirge house over. Rent on lease
680. Returns £800 a year, about 6500
required.

10. Watchmaker's and Jeweller's in

Brecknockshire. Rent and taxes only 620;
good house: n?tl profits last year .£1*0.
£250 required for everything.

Further particulars of w«y of the above and many
others, graii: qi application.

INDEX TO ADYEETISERS.

«•-

Page

Aftcan Silver AH erts. . .. .. .. xxi

Ahronsberg, Bros., Birmingham ,. ., xix

Armstrong, T. & Brothers. Manchester .. xxv

Ateliers Hoster de St. Nicolas, Ltd., Londoa xxv

Backes & Strauss, London . . . . . . ii

Baker, C, & Son, Birmingham .. .. ix

Barker, F.. & Son, Loudon.. .. .. xxiv

Ba.ylis, Henry, Birmingham . . . . xxiii

Bitume & Co., London .. .. .. iii

Berend, O., & Co., London . . .. ,. xiii

Birch, John S.. New York .. ., ,. xxv

Bloxham, W., Birmingham xi

Borgzinner Brothers, London . . . . x

Botwright & Grey, London vi

Brown, W. H , Birmingham . . . . xix

Brueton, F., Birmingham .. .. .. xvii

Bryan, C, Whitby .. .. xxiv

Caldicott, J. W., Birmingham .. .. ix

Carter, G., London xix

Carver, F. J., Birmingham xix

Carley, Geo , & Co., London . . . . xxviii

Chapman, Son, and Co., London . . . . xxvi

Chopard, Ch., Switzerland . . .. .. xiii

Clemence Freres, London . . . . . . xxviii

Cooper, H. J., & Co., London .. .. xiv

Cotton, Geo., London . . . . . . xix

Crick & Co., Tottenham xx

Davis. D. & M. Birmingham . . . . xviii

Day, Edward, Birmingham. . .. .. xxi

Deakin & Francis, Birmingham . . ... ii

Dilger, J., London .. .. .. .. xix

Dunlop, C. J., Birmingham.. .. .. xix

Fattorini & Sons, Bradford . . . . . . vi

Fa wson, J., Birmingham .. .. ., xix

Fenwick, A., Birmingham .. .. .. v

Flavell & Co , Coventry . . . . ' . , xix

Fletcher, R , & Son, Stoneclough . . . . xxv

Ford and Wright, London . . . . . . xxv

Garstin. A., & Co., London xix

Ginder Bros., Birmingham .. .. .. iv

Goode, John, & Sons, Birmingham . . iv

Greehberg, I. S., & Co.. Birmingham . . vii

Griffith, W., & Sons, Birmingham . . xiii

Grimshaw & Baxter, London . . . . . iii

Gripper Thimble . . . . . . . . xix

Guy e, P. & A., London xvii

Harris, Phillip, & Co., Birmingham . . v

Harrison and Co., Dublin xx

Harrold, C, & Co , Birmingham .. ., xi

Harvey, G. W., & Co., Birmingham . . xiii

Haswell, R., & Sons, London .. .. viii

Hewitt, C. T. & Son, Coventry .. .. x

Hill, C. J., Coventry xx

Hirst, A. & S., Oldham ix

Holden, T., Burnley xvi

Hope, Birmingham . . . . . . . . x

Hotchkiss, Mayo & Meek, Coventry . , xvii

Jones, T. Walter, Birmingham . . . . iv

Joseph, B. H., & Co,, Birmingham . . xix

Kettle, F. G., London .. .. .. xix

King & Sons, London . . . . . . viii

Koritschoner, D., London .. .. xxi

Kullberg, V., London xxvii

Lamb, H. T., London . . . . . . xxv

Langdale. I., Whitby xxii

Lnmby, Halifax xxiii

Mander, H., & Co., Coventry .. .. ix

Mathesoi., Leith .. xxiv

Millward. W., Birmingham xix

Mitchell & Cooper, London . . . . xxi

Moore. Joseph, Birmingham . . . . xix

Mott, F., Birmingham xix

Newsome & Co., Coventry xviii

Oliver, J. G., London xx

Parkes, S., & Sons, Birmingham .. .. xix

Perret-Michelin, J., Switzerland .. .. xvi

Perrins, W. C., Birmingham .. .. xxiv

Pringle, Robert, & Co., London .. .. xiii

Plucknett, C. J., & Co., London .. .. ix

Raphael, J., & Co., London xi

Reading, N. O, & Co., Birmingham .. xi

Robbins & Appleton, London

Rose, C E .Bolton

Rotherham & Sons, Coventry

Round, John, & Son, Sheffield

Round, B. J., Birmingham

Saunders & Shepherd, London . . . ,
Scott, A., Birmingham
Siegele and Bennett, London

Smith, T., & Co., London

Spencer, J , Birmingham
Starling, J. H.. Birmingham
Stauffer, Son, & Co., London
Sturtevaut, T. T., London ..
Swinden & Sons, Birmingham
Swingewood, A., Birmingham
Sydenham, A., Birmingham

Taylor, J. & H., Birmingham
Thomason, John, & Nephews, Birmingham
Thwaites Bros., London
Tripplin, J.. London
" Triumph " Lathe ..

Usher & Cole, London

Vale, Wm. & Sons, Birmingham . . . . xix

Vaughton, Birmingham . . . . . . vi

Vacheron & Coubtantln, Geneva and London xx

Walker, S., Liverpool .. .. .. xvii

Walter, W. H., London .. .. .. x

Weill & Co., LondO'i .. .. .. xiv

Westwood, C, & S ms, Birmingham . . xxvii

Whitton, T. M., and Sous, London . . xi

Wilkins, J., and Co., London .. .. iii

Williams, T. M., London .. .. .. xxiii

Willis, Mark, and Son, Sheffield . . ii

Winkles, W., Birmingham . . . . xix

Page
xvii
xix

xxviii
xii
xvi

xxvii

xviii

xxvi

xix

xiii

xxiv

xix

xvi
xxi
xx
xx

xxiii

xvi

FOR SALE.

AN OLD-ESTABLISHED JEWEL -

-Ef- LERY BUSINESS. Satisfactory reasons
given for wishing to dispose oi it. Stock small,
to be taken at valuation. — Staniland, Malton.

TRAVELLERS, calling on WATCH AND
CLOCKMAKERS, required to represent
German Clock Manufacturer throughout the United
Kingdom on commission. One small sample is
sufficient to take orders for the goods from illus-
trated lists. Very remunerative to good men with
established connections. When applying state
fullest particulars of the counties working, and
references, &c, to B. R., Box " W." 223, care
of The Watchmakek, Jeweller and Silvebsmith .
Offices, 68, Fleet Street, London, E.C.

TY7" ANTED. — WATCHMAKER'S REGU-
VV LATOR, good and reliable (second-
hand) ; also a good JEWELLER'S SAFE.—
Prices and particulars to James Dowell, 45,
Collingwood Street, Carlisle.

TY7ANTED, for India, COMPETENT ASSIS-
VV TANT for Ophthalmic Optician's busi-
ness. Must thoroughly understand adapting
spectacles and astigmatic combinations. Young
unmarried man preferred. — Address, Lawrence,
27, Sutherland-avenue, London, W.

WANTED, GOLD HUNTING McCABE
REPEATER. Also old - fashioned
Watches, with moving figures, &c. Price and
particulars to H. G. S., care of Hey wood & Co.,
68, Fleet -street, E.C.

WATCHMAKER'S & JEWELLELt'>
business requiied in good neighbourhood.
Full particulars and lowest price. A. Bkooks,
4. Gerrard Street, Islington, Louden, N.

"ALERT" CYCLES. First-class

•ii variety and quality ; cheap for cash, or on
deferred payments. Lists f''ee. Agents wanted.
Smith & Molesworth. Albion Mills, Coventry.

EWELLERS' and SILVERSMITHS' DE-
SIGNER and ENGRAVER requires
situation in London, at Manufactures or large
West-end Retail House. Accustomed to best
work. Apply by letter, E.D.W., 88, Park Street,
Camden Town, N.W. (W. 224.)

®6e

^atcl^aker, jeweller

Entered at Stationers' Hall.]

ilMeTBJOcii

Edited by W. J. LEWIS ABBOTT, F.G.S.

SEP 15,

[Registered for Transmission Abroad.

Vol. XVII.— No. 3.]

SEPTEMBER 1, 1891.

r Subscription, 5s. ) Post
L per Annum. I Free.

Single Copies, 6d.

IMpe QuafifTcafion. of fj^e ©pficiar^.

E have received numerous letters during the
last month, and on previous occasions, upon
a point that we have often raised as to the
qualifications of the optician. We have
always maintained that no man ought to be
allowed to prescribe for a defective eye, any more than for a
defective heart, without being duly qualified to do so. We
are quite sure that by far the greater portion of the better
classes think so, too ; and hence it is, that for the least
thing they run to an opthalmic surgeon, which, in most
cases, any properly qualified optician would understand
equally well, as in nine out of every ten of such cases there
is no disease present, and therefore no necessity for an
opthalmic surgeon's attention. But at present there is an
absolute want of confidence on the part of the public in
opticians, the latter having no credentials, however clever
they may be. This is obviously unfair to the optician, as
whatever his knowledge of his profession — for profession it
is — may be, there is practically nothing to distinguish him
from the man who puts up a card, " all sights sixpence
a pair."

Then again we have heard from occulist- surgeons sad
accounts of the inability of some so-called opticians, it
being considered not safe to send a prescription to an
optician whose skill is not known. Of course, we are
fully aware that such a state of things is calculated to
create a great deal of jealousy in the trade, and several of
our correspondents take a very injured view of the case,
especially with regard to public institutions ; but while we
sympathise with many of the views they express, we must
say we consider the surgeon's present course the wisest he
can adopt. If, however, the selective action of the surgeon
was rendered unnecessary by opticians holding qualifica-
tions as valid as his own, there would be no justification
for such action on the part of the surgeon, and doubtless
he would discontinue it. But at present there is nothing
to show the surgeon that this or that optician understands
his business.

What we maintain ought to exist is a recognised centre

from which diplomas or their equivalents ought to be
issued to qualified opticians. No matter whether these
came from a Eoyal Opthalmic College or from the Honor-
able Spectacle-makers' Company, whioh ever was made the
recognized test the public would soon acknowledge, and the
dignity of the profession would be elevated in proportion to
the severity of the examinations and the difficulty of obtain-
ing the licentiateships. Personally we consider the right
body to undertake the work would be the Spectacle-makers'
Company, who ought to provide not only a committee of
examiners but a thorough efficient staff of lecturers and
teachers, to supply the knowledge of the science to mem-
bers of its craft.

If the Company could see their way clear to do this they
would themselves be elevated in the eyes of the public, by
whom they are scarcely ever heard of, and they would
share something of the dignity of the Boyal College of
Surgeons. We are fully aware that such an undertaking
would mean enormous expense ; but we are sure that if the
Company took the initiative grants could soon be procured,
and it would not be long before the value of the work would
be recognised by philanthropists, and we should soon get
chairs endowed. It would not be the fostering of an art/
which, however commendable in itself, had no ulterior
object save the pleasing of the ears or the feasting of the
eyes ; it would strike at the most prevalent and universal
affliotions of human nature, and would mean the lifting of
the veil which dims every objeot around the afflicted, and
the setting him in the light of day. The value of a City
Company is not to be estimated by the strength of its roll
or the number of banquets it gives in a year, but by the
steps it takes to assist, to foster, and develop the craft
whose name it bears.

Messrs. Stauffer, Son and Co. have just passed at the
Kew Observatory a Gold Tourbillon Chronometer, which
attained the extraordinary number of 91 "6 marks, thus,
beating all records. For positional adjustment it gained
39-3 marks out of a possible 40. This is the same Chrono-
meter which obtained the first prize and honors for its
marvellous results at the Neuchatel Observatory. The
watch referred to was made throughout at their own
factory : Chaux-de-fonds, Switzerland.

THE WATCHMAKER, JEWELLER AND SILVERSMITH. [September 1, 1891

feeHnieaf

GiLueation

ftam.

HE Midland metropolis is . essentially a
manufacturing centre, and its city council
has proved fully alive to its requirements
in the matter of technical education,
suited to the varied processes carried on
within its borders. It may be remembered
that some twelve months or so ago, the
governing powers of the great local
polytechnic — The Birmingham and Mid-
land Institute — found themselves unable to successfully
cope with the constantly increasing cost of their work of
education, and a scheme was elaborated whereby the
"industrial" portion of the institute was taken over by
the city authorities, to be worked by them in accordance
with the recently passed " Technical Instructions Act."
And right well have they set about their task, and if
their success is commensurate with the energy and ability
displayed in organising the scheme of education, then the
Birmingham Municipal Technical School, as it is now called,
will speedily prove of incalculable benefit not only to the
trade of the town but to the whole art of the jeweler.

In a community such as Birmingham, comprising such
a vast number of utterly diverse manufactures, it is simply
impossible that any one trade, or series of kindred trades,
should receive undue advantages from the common funds ;
and we were thus prepared for but a meagre programme
of instruction for our own trade. But we must confess to
a most satisfactory disappointment in this direction. In
perusing the syllabus issued, we are forced to admit that
we have been well dealt with ; and if our fellow trades are
not jealous of the amount of attention we of the precious
metals have received, we certainly have no cause to
complain.

The session commences on Monday, the 14th instant;
and the following extract from the introduction to the
syllabus will sufficiently indicate that genuine technical
education is intended, and not merely theoretical teaching :
" Every lesson will, as far as possible, consist of a half-
hour lecture, given by the teacher in the laboratory, and
two hours at least practical work performed by the student
under the direction of the teacher, or a demonstrator."

Of course what may be termed the basis studies,
applicable more or less to each and every special line, are
fully represented. There are Chemistry, Electricity,
Physics, Mathematics, etc., and efficient teachers have been
secured in each of these departments. In addition to these
general subjects, there are two sections, exhaustively
catered for, which apply to our own trades — 1st, A "special
course for Gold and Silver Trades," and 2nd, a " special
course for Electro-plating and Gilding Trades." The first
course is " Practical Metallurgy for Gold and Silver," and
comprises : —
Physical Properties. — Specific gravity, fracture, lustre,

color, impurities, &c.
Metallurgical Properties. — Ores, smelting, cupellation, &c.
Furnaces. — Smelting and annealing, &c.
Fuel. — Varieties, character, &c.
Silver, Gold, Platinum. — Physical and chemical properties,

ores, compounds, extraction, preparation of pure gold

and silver, shop dirt, lemel, refining, &c.
Alloys. — Standard Silver and Gold, solders, impurities,

coloring, &c.
Assaying of gold and silver.

The second course is " Practical Electro-metallurgy for
Electro-platers," and comprises : —
Batteries. — Amalgamation, charging, arrangement of cells,

resistance board, cyanide, solutions, recovery of gold

from spoilt solutions, &c.

Preparation of solutions and remedy for defects.
Deposition of silver and gold, and bright silver.
Estimating weight of gold and silver deposited.
Oxydising. — Stripping old work.
Purifying. — Parcel gilding, &c.

It will.be seen from these digests that the curriculum is
a thorough one, and we trust that many of our younger
operatives will take advantage of it. The knowledge thus
to be gained will be of inestimable use to them in their
business career, and, whether they be masters or men, it
will raise them above the average level of their more neg-
lectful compeers.

. That there may be no possible disability existing on the
score of expense, the fee for each complete course is fixed at
ten shillings per year.

We notice further that a number of Free Scholarships,
tenable for two years, are offered for competition by the
committee, upon the result of an examination of an
elementary character. Well may the elders amongst us
look with envy upon the exceptional facilities offered to the
learners of to-day. In the series we have sketched there
is an almost endless source of progress to the earnest and
determined student workman. There are possibilities to-
day of which his prototype of a generation ago had not the
faintest conception.

It would perhaps be well to add in conclusion that all
this is in addition to the Special "Jewelers" School in
Vittoria Street, of which a report appeared in our last
issue.

ffte (^o^e^tr^/ @Y/atcft Movement diorrjpar^/.

MEETING of shareholders and others was
held a few days since at the works of
this company to consider, and if thought
fit, to authorise the directors to allot pre-
ference shares which had been promised.
The amount required was about £5,000,
but promises had been received for only
£2,000. After some discussion as to the financial position
of the company, it was decided "to defer allotment for a
fortnight upon condition that in the meantime promises
amounting to £4,000 were received. '

Since the above meeting the directors have taken stock,
with the result, that instead of a loss there is a balance to
the good of £123. As Mr. Singer remarked, a great deal
of energy had been thrown into the concern, and the place
being now in thoroughly good working order, there is no
reason why the company should not have a prosperous
future. It would be a misfortune for the town if a busi-
ness, which promises so well, were allowed to go down for
want of capital. It is satisfactory to observe that there is
a disposition on the part of public- spirited citizens to rally
to the support of the company, and there should be now no
difficulty in getting the requisite capital, especially seeing
that both interest and capital have alike preferential
rights. , <

We cannot help contrasting things on this side with
what they do in America. If a watch company or any
other industry that is likely to be beneficial is started, the
citizens will always subscribe liberally, not in thousands
but in tens of thousands ; and so they ought, seeing how
greatly the place is benefited by it. We fear the watch-
making industry in this country will die out unless some
enterprising capitalists come to the rescue. For, as it is,
men say there is no inducement for them to become skilled
workmen, as there appears such little scope for their
abilities. So that unfortunately when they get educated
above the average, they leave the trade for something
better or to go abroad, as our list of honors men often
testifies.

September 1, 1891.] THE WATCHMAKER, JEWELLEE AND SILVEESMITH.

Ufte Sl> ir mi r^gftam. ^eaoeferA' arte)
f^er^iTLif^AJ <J\A&oeiafiori.

HALF-YEARLY meeting of the above

association was held at the Assay Office,

Birmingham, under the presidency of

the Chairman of the Association, Mr.

Walter Best. Amongst those present were

Messrs. Charles Green, William Tonks (Hon.

Sec), J. M. Banks, J. H. Mole, J. Allday,

junr., Jno. and L. Spiers, P. H. Levi, Nathan Buncher,

and Allen Edwards (Secretary).

Mr. L. Spiers said he would like to suggest that any
future reports be printed and circulated among the mem-
bers prior to the meeting.

The Chairman promised that Mr. Spiers' suggestion
should be brought before the notice of the committee, after
which he proceeded to read the half-yearly report of the
association, from which it transpired that forty-one meet-
ings of committee and sub-committee had been held during
the past half-year. In response to the invitations for con-
tributions to the Special Fund the following had been
received: — £140 13s. for the Art and Technical Schools
Fund, £42 15s. for the Vigilance Department, and £32 12s.
for the Debtors' Prosecution Fund ; and the committee
hoped all the members would see their way to contribute.
The present strength of this association was stated to be
183, and in all departments they were making considerable
progress. In the matter of insolvencies they had been
exceptionally successful, and it was now found that the
solicitors of insolvent debtors were acting harmoniously
with the association. In one case, where 5s. in the £ was
offered, the association had succeeded in getting 6s. 8d.,
and in no case where the association had advised had their
advice been overthrown. They had appointed Mr. Sidney
Porter consulting solicitor to the association. The number
of students attending the Art and Technical Schools
was 157, and there had been a fair average attendance.
They had been kept open longer than the usual term for
the purpose of enabling several students to complete work
which they had in hand for exhibition at the Armourers' and
Braziers' Exhibition, where six students had entered, and
two were successful. At the suggestion of Sir Philip
Magnus, the committee had prepared a syllabus of subjects
for examination, and had forwarded the same to the City
and Guilds of London Institute, who had accepted it and
appointed Mr. Charles Green examiner. Acting upon the
suggestion of the committee Mr. Charles Green had sent
an account of the £500 kindly granted by the Guardians of
the Assay Office, showing how it has been expended, and
in a letter to the Guardians had pointed out that the fund
was nearly exhausted, and asking for further assistance at
the hands of the Guardians. Mr. Buckley, the chairman,
had written asking for particulars as to the amounts sub-
scribed by the trade, and after some further correspondence,
in the course of which Mr. Green stated that the original
estimate of the cost of maintaining the schools of £210
had been found too low, the Guardians decided to vote
another £100 to the association. The Chairman moved
the adoption of the report of the Vigilance Committee as
read, which was seconded by Mr. Green, and carried.

The Chairman next proposed that the hours of atten-
dance at the schools during the forthcoming session be from
6.30 to 8.30.

Mr. Green was glad to have an opportunity of seconding
this motion, as he was, in a measure, responsible for it.
They were only just getting out of the experimental stage,
and the question as to how many hours the boys should
devote to study had occupied much attention. Last session
they felt it their duty to reduce the time, but it was soon
found that they had been over-kind, and had taken away

some of the usefulness of the school. The time at the
students' disposal was comparatively so short that they
were unable to grapple with the work in hand, and both
the boys and masters lost interest in the work. The
students had asked to be allowed to work an hour extra,
and they had to keep the school open three or four weeks
longer to allow them to finish the work they had in hand
for exhibition, and he felt that by keeping the schools open
until 8.30 they could not be censured for severity. At any
rate, his suggestion was to try the effect of an alteration.
The motion was then put to the vote and carried.

Mr. P. H. Levi moved that the best thanks of the
association be given to the Guardians of the Assay Office
for their donation of £100. This was seconded by
Mr. Nathan.

Mr. Green, who, though desirous of supporting this
motion, felt that perhaps as a Guardian himself he was
somewhat out of order, but as he had been instrumental
in obtaining this further donation from the Assay Office
he felt he might speak on the subject. Mr. Buckley was,
he said, surprised to hear that the trade had only con-
tributed £100, and it was this fact which caused the Assay
Office to limit their contribution to one year with the
object of seeing what support the trade gave it. He
(Mr. Green) urged upon the members to lend their best
support to the scheme, and asked those who were not called
upon to give their time to assist them with their guineas .
The school was only a trial, but it must grow, and they
must look at it as beneficial to the trade. The boy who
passed through their school with honors carried his cha-
racter in his pocket, and he pronounced it a grand thing
for a boy to go forth into the world with these credentials.
This was a plan which would seed and grow again, and he
trusted the members would not give way to " a-rest-and-
be-thankful sort of feeling."

Mr. L. Spiers thought the merchants and factors, many
of whom were interested in technical education, would con-
tribute to the association's funds if asked.

Mr. Green said they had all along objected to " taking
round the hat."

The motion of Mr. Levi was then put and carried.

Mr. Lord moved a vote of thanks to the Guardians for
the use of the meeting-room.

Mr. Spiers seconded the vote, which was carried.

A further vote of thanks to the Chairman was proposed
by Mr. Spiers and seconded by Mr. Mole, which concluded
the proceedings.

SfiefeU) Sfrifanfftropic (^a^tifufioa.

N July 28th the annual meeting of the above
institution was held at the Craven Arms Inn ,
Craven Street. There was a good attend-
ance, including the President (Mr. E. Ball),
Vice-President (Mr. H. Caldicott), Alder-
man Read, Messrs. J. T. Lower (secretary),
W. R. Smith, F. Loverock, B. Haymes, E.
Martin. G. Turner, C. Band, W. Smith, J. West,
A. Welch, C. Lowe, J. Thompson, W. Owen, J.
Fairhurst, J. Morley, C. Catlin, A. Randle, J.
Martin, G. Bridger, T. Gardner, W. Steary, J. Thrasher,
&c. The annual report showed that eighty-three cases had
been visited by the committee, and other active members,
in various parts of the city, some of them being most
distressing ones, which after investigation had been relieved
with various sums of money, according to circumstances,
amounting in all to £56 18s. Od. A very large number of
Coventry and Warwickshire Hospital and Dispensary
tickets, Birmingham Eye Infirmary, and Ear and Throat
Hospital, and other tickets have been given to deserving
persons too poor to pay for efficient medical or surgical aid.
The committee thanked Messrs. Rotherham and Sons who,
for the sixth year in succession, had given to the Society a

THE WATCHMAKER, JEWELLER AND SILVERSMITH. [September 1, 1891.

donation of £10 ; The Mayor, and the subscribers to the
Coventry Cotton Mill Operatives' Relief Fund for a dona-
tion of £25 granted from their funds ; Mr. J. Gulson, Mr.
F. Twist, the late Mr. I J. T. Newsome, Mr. C. P. New-
man, Mr. C. H. Slingsby, and all others who had so
generously contributed to the funds. Deep regret was
expressed at the loss of an old and tried friend in the late
Mr. I. J. T. Newsome, one of their earliest and best friends,
who did all he possibly could to help them. The flower
show and sports benefited the funds to the extent of £35.
The usual weekly meetings had been well attended. The
balance-sheet showed receipts £173 4s. 8£d., and expendi-
ture £98 6s. Oid., leaving a balance of £74 18s. 8d. The
report and balance-sheet were adopted. Several proposi-
tions were under notice relating to the name of the institu-
tion, and it was ultimately decided that the name of the
institution be " Chapel-fields Philanthropic Institution,"
instead of " Chapel-fields District and Watchmakers'
Philanthropic Institution." The officers for the ensuing
year were elected as follows : — Mr. H. Caldicott, president,
Mr. Martin, vice-president, and the committee of last year
was re-elected. Votes of thanks were accorded to the
officers for their services, and the proceedings closed.

The eighteenth annual fete and sports in connection
with this institution were held on Monday, August 3rd last
in the Cricket Grounds, Coventry. Notwithstanding the
bad weather there were upwards of 5,000 people present.
The following were the officials : — Judges : Mr. Alexander
Rotherham, J. P., and Mr. John Bill, J.P. Handicapper :
Mr. W. W. Alexander (Birchfield H. and M.C.A.A.A.) Lap
scorer: Mr. W. M. Turrell. Referee: Mr. C. F. Hill
(Burton A.C. and M.C.A.A.A.) Clerks of the course:
Messrs. C. Wareham and W. Lines. Starter : W. Ware-
ham. Timekeepers : Messrs. J. H. Godsell and W. Hosier.
Sports' Committee : Mr. Walter Mason (president), Mr.
T. L. Price (vice-president), Messrs. C. Wareham, W.
Lines, H. H. Goodwin, G. H. Waterfall, W. Parsons, J.
Price, G. Skidmore, W. Freeman, J. S. Edmonds, H.
Mander, E. Kirk, J. Belfield, and J. Harrison. Hon. Sec.
to Sports' Committee: Mr. Walter Mason (president).

r ^oHn Bennett, !§ invitee).

E were recently rather taken by a specimen
of fine silversmiths' work, turned out by Mr.
B. Burnet, of Carr Lane,. Hull, and 319,
High Holborn, which demonstrated how
fine an ornament can be made out of an
illuminated address. It is in the form of a
fine open door with centre arch, attached by
elaborate hinges, which are jewelled with sapphires and
rubies. York roses occupy the outer border, and trophies,
illustrative of commerce and navigation on one side, and
law, justice and liberty on the other, occupy the interspaces
where the arch leaves the door frame. On the top of the
front is placed in the centre the sheriff's seal of Hull. At
the sides of this are two figures finely modelled and chased,
and representing respectively commerce and justice. The
lower panels of the doorway have gilt decoration, one being
the crest of Mr. Robson, a boar's head in pale, and the
other his monogram in enamelled letters. A large shield,
enamelled with the arms of Hull, is given on the centre of
the door, and forms a means of opening and closing it.
When the door is opened an elaborate address conveying
the thanks of the Borough of Hull to Mr. ex-sheriff Robson
is disclosed. At the foot of the address is a ribbon
attached to the seal of the Borough, which is pendant from
it, and is contained in a silver gilt box. The address
cover is made to stand on a table, having an easel arrange-
ment, by which it can be supported in position, and makes
quite a striking and original ornament .The same firm exe-
cuted the order for the casket which was presented by the Cor-
poration of Kingston-upon-Hull to the Lord Mayor Savory.

N extroardinary General Meeting of the
shareholders of Sir John Bennett,
Limited, was held at Winchester
House, Old Broad Street, E.C., on the
7th ult. E. L. Moore, Esq., presided.
The chairman stated that the committee
of investigation appointed at the last
meeting had completed their report, and
it now only remained for him to introduce
Sir Joseph Weston to the meeting, who, being chairman of
the committee, would explain more fully the position of the
company. Sir Joseph Weston, in proposing the first
resolution, " That the report of the committee of in-
vestigation be received and adopted," said that the
committee had been nominated by the shareholders to in-
vestigate the affairs of Sir John Bennett, Limited, and in
laying their report before the meeting he wished it to be
distinctly understood that the committee had no purpose of
their own to serve in the matter. (Hear, hear.) The
committee had attended a great number of meetings,
assisted by their able accountants, Messrs. Gane, Jackson,
and Jeffreys ; and they had thoroughly investigated the
affairs of the company. During their investigations it had
been made perfectly clear that the statements of the
prospectus had been most flagrantly inaccurate from the
beginning to the end. He might say that the prospectus
contained statements put forward by those interested with
Sir John Bennett in the sale of the business, and it seemed
that none of the parties connected with the newly-formed
company ascertained whether the statements put forward
in the prospectus were correct or not, and that scarcely any
step was taken worthy of the name. that had for its purpose
the examination of, and the valuation of, the various assets
of the company, with the view of serving or protecting the
interests of the company. The prospectus stated, amongst
other things, that the business of the company for the last
ten years before it was taken over had made an annual
gross profit of £14,000 a year, and that its net average
income amounted to over £8,100 a year. The committee
found that no books existed, and that no stock-sheets
existed that would enable the committee or their
accountants to investigate the affairs of Sir John Bennett,
Limited, with a view of ascertaining what were the average
profits made over a longer period than six years. For six
years before taking over the business the books had never
been kept at all accurately, but during that six years they
had been able to ascertain what were the gross and net
profits, with the result that the gross profits represented
about £10,000 a year, and the net profits about £2,780
a year for the six years ; but they found also that the
business had not kept up what it was in former years, and
that during the last three years before the business was
taken over the net profits did not exceed £1,500 a year.
The shareholders were aware that the sum paid by the
company to Sir John Bennett for taking over the freehold
and leasehold premises and stock-in-trade and goodwill of
the business was £66,000, but something else which the
committee had discovered was really not revealed in the
balance-sheet, and that was that £39,000 was agreed to be
paid to Sir John Bennett for the goodwill of his business.
Now, the directors, after they had some few months with
the business, found the profits much less than they
expected, and they sought to make some arrangements
with Sir John Bennett concerning the matter. In
November, 1889, an agreement was entered into to the
effect that they should pay Sir John £5,000 net, and give
him an annuity of £600 a year ; but at the time that agree-
ment was entered into the company had already paid in
cash to him £45,868, and that there was due to him
£20,132. At that time the company could have paid to
Sir John a large part of that money in " B " shares. Sir

September 1, 1891.] THE: WATGHMAKEE, JEWELLEE AND SILVEESMITH.

John had agreed to take his money in these shares that
had been allotted, so that the only cash they need have
paid him at the time of this agreement was £6,000; but
instead of the directors carrying out the original agreement
they absolutely agreed to pay him not only £5,000 in cash,
but also an annuity for life of £600 a year. It seemed that
before the company was formed an agreement had been
entered into between Mr. Wright, the former chairman of
the company, and Mr. Davis, the solicitor to the company,
and Sir John Bennett, by which the two first-named
gentleman had to receive £19,000, partly to pay the
promotion and floating expenses, and the remainder for
their own absolute use and benefit. (Cries of " shame.")
He' might also mention' that this agreement was not' even
mentioned in this prospectus. There were no means what-
ever by which those who applied for shares could have known
of the existence' of the agreement, and it1 was only at a
later period, when a deed was being prepared to carry out
a certain compromise, that this private agreement was
brought to light Although this compromise had been
made, the committee felt compelled to express the opinion
that it would never have been sanctioned by the share-
holders had alb the' circumstances now within their
knowledge been before the meeting when the scheme was
approved. (Hear, hear.) As matters stand Sir John Bennett
had virtually received £21, 346 for goodwill. This sum was,
of course, in excess of the true' value of the business.
The committee had come to the conclusion that the total
assets of Sir John Bennett at the time the company was
formed were not worth so much as set down in the balance-
sheet, £24,000. The result of the investigation of the
accounts and the position of the company led the committee1
to" express an opinion that the capital of the company ought
to" be reduced by writing it down to an amount that would
show the assets of the company at their fair value — (hear,
hear) — as " such reduction would give to the company a
better financial position. The' practical outcome of the
investigation was shown in the' recommendations that
they'made, which were briefly set forth in their report,
namely, that at least two new directors be added to the
board— (hear, hear)— tbat the accounts presented by the
directors at the general meeting of April 14th last be not
adopted, but that the revised- balance-sheet^ as at February
28th, 1891, presented by the committee, be approved and
passed. That the jewelry department be thoroughly re-
organised, and that the business thereof be transferred at
the earliest convenient date'tothe freehold premises, No.
65, Gheapside. That a system of accounts be adopted which
will readily lend itself to a thorough periodical audit, and
that the accountants be instructed to organise such
system. That in future the accounts of the company be
audited by professional auditors. That the expenditure
of the company be very carefully considered, with a view
to' putting a stop to all unnecessary outlay. That the
necessary steps be taken to reduce the" capital of the
company by two-fifths of the nominal amount thereof, so
that each "A" share will be reduced to £3 fully paid ;
each fully paid "B" share to £3 fully paid ; and each £3
paid " B " share to £1 16s. paid with a liability of £2 ; and"
that, on the reduced capital, dividends be payable" as
follows : — A preference to the " A " shares" of 8 per cent. ;- J
then the "B" shares to. be entitled to a dividend up to '
8 per cent;, any surplus remaining to be divided so that an
equal dividend be paid on both "A" and "B" shares.
That- the articles of association be altered in suchrespects
as may be necessary to give effect to these recommenda-
tions,-and to enable the business of the company to be
carried on with greater efficiency and economy. In the past
the best interests of the shareholders had not been protected.
The; committee still felt that, notwithstanding the high
price they had paid for the business, there was great value
in the concern itself. (Applause.) It was a good business,

and if it could be managed with efficiency and economy,
and • with a spirit of enterprise, he believed it could be
made a successful concern. (Hear, hear.) He then simply
moved that the report of the committee be received and
adopted. Mr. H. W. Lofthouse seconded the motion, and
remarked that, as ' expressed in the committee's report, the
company had a really good business, and with fresh manage-
ment, together with the reduction of the capital of the
company, it would become a prosperous concern in the
future. The motion was carried unanimously. Sir Joseph
Weston moved the' adoption of the' balance-sheet as
audited by the chartered accountants engaged by the com-
mittee.- Mr. Lofthouse seconded this motion also, and it
was carried unanimously. Mr. Lofthouse and Mr. Brachi
were elected to seats on the board. On the motion of Sir
Joseph Weston, seconded by Mr. Hewitt, the recommenda-
tions contained in subsections " c, d, e, andf," of the recom-
mendations of the report of the committee were adopted.-
Sir Joseph Weston moved, and Mr. Baume seconded, that
Messrs. Gane, Jackson, and Jeffreys be appointed auditors
to* the company for the ensuing year. This motion was
carried unanimously.- A discussion ensued on the conduct
of the directors, and, as they had placed their resignations
in the hands of the committee, it was decided that they
should be accepted. Messrs. Moore and Hendry, two of
the old board, were re-elected. Great pressure was brought
to bear upon Sir Joseph Weston to induce him to join the
board, but he declined to accept a seat in consequence of
other pressing engagements. Respecting the reduction of
the " A " and "B" shares, a resolution was adopted to
the effect, " that the necessary steps be taken to reduce the
capital of the company as recommended." The meeting
was subsequently made special, when certain alterations in
the articles of association were made to still further carry
out the recommendation of the committee. A hearty vote
of thanks was passed to the committee (special mention
being made of Sir Joseph Weston) for their services. A
vote of thanks was given to the chairman at the close of
the proceedings.

<§n. anc| ©u£ t^e d>ourH&.

The case of the lensefront clinical thermometer has
been brought to an issue in the High Court of Justice, ■
Queen's Bench Division, before Mr. Justice Charles. It
appears that there was originally an agreement between
Mr. Hicks, Mr. Denton, and Luigi Peroni in 1886, which
bound them to adhere to a certain price for the thermo-
meters. It now transpires that Mr. Denton has broken that
agreement, and has been supplying them at a less price.
The action, however, was stayed upon the following terms :
(1.) That the defendant pay £200 damages and legal costs.
(2.)' That the defendant take back the thermometers, which
Mr. Hicks bought through other persons from the defendant.
(3.) That a perpetual injunction be granted against
defendant to restrain him further breaking the terms of the
agreement, and defendant to make full disclosure of all
thermometers' illegally sold by him at a higher rate of
discount than five per cent.

At the Mansion House on August 7th, Eeginald Lumbly,
20, a solicitor's clerk, was brought up on remand for obtain-
ing by false pretences from Messrs. Reece, Mansion House-
chambers, jewelry to the" value of £117. Mr. Geoghegan,
for the defence, in cross-examination of the prosecutor,
elicited the facts that he (the prosecutor) had been twice a
bankrupt, and that his discharge had recently been sus-
pended for two years ; that he had backed a horse for the
defendant, and that he told him he could pay for the jewelry
when he liked. The Lord Mayor in dismissing the charge
said he hoped it would be a warning to the defendant to
avoid such transactions in the future,

THE WATCHMAKER, JEWELLER AND SILVERSMITH. [September 1, 1891.

[Nfotes flbout Jouyp.

August is never considered to be a month of
twr;woiith "rea*i things, or even trade at all in the West
' End, so that if little is done no one is much
disappointed. Judging, however, from all accounts, there
is little to grumble at in the trade of the month. Many
report they have been busy, and most people say " must
not grumble for August." In the manufactories they appear
running at full speed, and Christmas novelties are now on
the tapis. One house, not a hundred miles off the mother
church of the old watch parish, known as the largest and
best house in the trade for pearl work, is just as active —
and, if possible, more so, considering the extensions of its
premises — as it has been for years past, and novelties this
year are by no means behind those of other years, either in
quantity or excellence of design. We notice they are
employing turquoise very freely, of which beautiful gem
they have probably the finest in the trade. In the West
End the manufacturers are divided in their le^orts, some
stating they are very busy, others being inclined to
grumble.

# # *

However the archaeologist may rave, or the
The itroduc- connoisseur prate about the beauties of the
day. works of foreign lands and distant times, no
one who knows what he is talking about can
produce from any period specimens of bona-Me ordinary
work of the jeweler which can equal in artistic merit,
conception of design, and excellence of finish, the pro-
ductions of tinted golds and platinum, known as emanat-
ing from the old Newman Street firm. Some of their
latest productions that we have seen about in the West
End windows make one feel — as jewelry hardly ever does
— as though they ought to be framed.

# * #

Nothing has surprised us more, perhaps, than

Hvas^n ^ne httle advantage that jewelers, up to the

Hoveities. present, have taken of- the deep secrets of the

laboratory which Professor Roberts-Austin has
made public property. He has shown that almost any
color can be obtained with gold variously alloyed and
treated, including colors heretofore unknown : as bright
purples to almost white, greens, bright ruby and other reds,
blues, in fact, almost any color, and yet how little of it is
to be seen ! It therefore seems to us that an immense
field lies open here for Christmas novelties. Enamels,
flowers, and moonstones have had a good run, but it can-
not be expected that they can command the sale next
season they have heretofore enjoyed. A run might easily
be made on " the new purple gold," as when finished matt
it sets off diamonds remarkably well, producing an effect I
with diamonds not attainable by any "waters" or treat-
ment that are resorted to.

"A* "TV

The magnificent finds of " Mexican Onyx "

'""able"" nave resulted in the bringing a lot of very

clocks beautiful clocks, vases, inkstands, and scores

of other things in that handsome material into
the markst. Those mounted with ormolu appear to secure
the best run. There are also a number of art pottery
clocks niw being sold, the beautiful cream ground, with. if
gold anl soft-colored flowers make exquisite objects of
classic design. With the early English, old blues with
characte istic treatment are resorted to with marvellous
effect. Messrs. Doulton and several others of the art
potters a:e also turning out some most imposing clock sets,
with the characteristic features of their wares. Manufac-
turers of high-class clocks are recommended to pay a visit
to the Lambeth Pottery, where cases in a variety of wares
and styles can be obtained,

There is a new opera-glass that, we are informed,

o «" ^s nnding a g°0(i sale, called " The Collapsible,"

Cila «s. its body being of bellows construction upon a

folding metal frame, which holds it perfectly

tight, and allows it to fold up to only rather more than

the thickness of the six lenses employed in it, so that even

a large field glass can be comfortably put into the breast

pocket. Although this object has been often tried before it

has always failed to become popular ; this, on the other hand,

appears to give every satisfaction.

# , # #

The marriage of Count de Talleyrand formed

stones' to a r*cn narvest f°r jewelers in Paris the last two
the front months, and here and there an order reached
London in connection with it. M. Dumoret,
of the Rue de la Paix, came in for the lion's share. M. A.
Dumoret received the finishing touches of his business-
training at the celebrated establishment of Mr. Streeter, of
New Bond Street ; and a list of some of the articles sup-
plied by the French firm is a specimen of how things are
done in the gay city. The present of the bride's mother,
the Princess de Leon, consisted of a morocco case,contai n-
ing a diamond cable bracelet, set with a black pearl in the
centre of each link ; brilliant and pearl trefoil ; sapphire
and pearl brooch ; and a sapphire and diamond crescent.
The Count, amongst other things, presented a magnificent
diamond necklace ; a coronet of single diamonds, sur-
mounted by a star ; a most elaborate crescent necklace of
diamonds and pearls, with a primrose pendant of diamonds
and colored stones ; three exquisite large pearls, mounted
as a brooch ; besides sundry pendants and bracelets of
colored stones. The Viscount and Viscountess Aguardo,
grandparents of the groom, gave a charming piece of
diamond work in the shape of an ostrich feather. Perhaps
one of the most exquisite sprays was composed of wild roses,
tied together with a ribbon in true lovers' knots. There
were a large quantity of other gem presents, in which
colored stones played a most important part. At other
weddings and grand balls colored stones are still very'
prominent.

# # #

A handsome testimonial has been presented to
Rented 'to ■^■r" ^ ®" King in recognition of his successful
Mr. in. s. advocacy of the claims of the European Civil
Ci^E»ai..v.^etv'x<Xl °f India resident in England. The
testimonial consists of a massive silver centre-
piece, a pair of Assiettes Monte'es, and a pair of candelabra to
match. The centrepiece, with its oval-shaped base and
beautifully chased acanthus-leaf edge, surmounted by tw»
finely-modelled figures, emblematical of Music and Art, is
a magnificent specimen of the silversmith's art. Rising
from the centre of the base is a beautifully-chased column,
supporting a candelabrum and two double side branches,
which hold four richly cut glass dishes for fruit or flowers.
The candelabrum may be removed at pleasure and replaced
by a beautifully-chased silver bowl, supporting a large and
handsomely cut glass dish. On the base of each of the
Assiettes Monties are seated two finely-modelled cupids, with
musical instruments in their hands. The service is a.
highly-finished piece of work, and reflects the greatest
credit on the manufacturers, the Goldsmith's Alliance
(Limited), 11 and 12, Cornhill, London, E.C.

At the late examinations in Watch and Clockmaking
held by the City and Guilds of London Institute the
following prizes, offered by the Goldsmith's Company, were
awarded as follows : — The first Honors, of £8 and a silver
medal, to J. F.Ludwig, of the London Horological Institute;
the second, of £3 and a bronze medal, to William K.
Smith, of the Heriot Watt College, Edinburgh. The first
prize in the ordinary stage has been taken by Alexander
Russell, of Rober't Gordon's College, Aberdeen ; the second
prize has not been awarded ; the third prize has gone to
Cyril II. White, of the Coventry Science and Art School.

September 1, 1891.]

THE WATCHMAKER, JEWELLER AND SILVERSMITH.

Bir/njr^am ffot^.

(By our own Correspondent.)*

HILE it is impossible to give anything like an
accurate statement as to the state of trade just
now, it is, however, safe to say that business so far, since
the holidays, has in most cases exceeded expectations.
The majority of firms are resuming the bustle, and activity
that is characteristic of the Birmingham trade, but in some
quarters it is feared that the " welcome rush " is destined
to be of an ephemeral nature only, and that a substantial
and permanent improvement cannot be counted upon until
we are well into September.

§N many branches of optics trade was very busy up to
Bank Hobday, and by the time men got back again to
work orders had accumulated, which the rest of the
month has been unable to pull up ; perhaps the thermo-
meter trade experienced the greatest rush, the spectacle
frame makers being also well employed.

MESSRS. AHRONSBERG BROTHERS, of 37, Albion
Street, the Jobbing House of Birmingham, have
shown us over their new and extensive premises, which,
owing to the considerable increase in their home trade, has
necessitated their taking. Special provision has seemingly
been made for the keeping separate of each of their depart-
ments, which, through the volume of business to be dealt
with in each, compels them to keep apart. Ample space is
provided for the Jobbing Department in a room measuring
40ft. long, with a workshop attached of the same dimen-
sions, whilst the appro, and order departments are con-
ducted in large and equally well suited rooms. We had the
pleasure of inspecting the well selected stock which they
keep at home for their immediate requirements, and which
in itself testifies to their doing no small business. They
claim as the secret of their success the conducting of their
home business under their own personal supervision, first-
class workmanship, and the great promptitude with which
all business is despatched. In wishing them every success
we can confidently recommend shopkeepers to favor them
with an trial.

YTtHE composition used in the manufacture of gold-cased
®J® chains by Messrs. C. Baker and Son, marked with
the initials

C. E. & S.
B.
is of the firm's own production. It is the best metal
possible for the purpose, the color is exactly that of
bright gold, untarnishable, and all through alike. This is
thickly cased with "Colombo Gold," and when finished
cannot be detected from 18 carat without great difficulty by
the ordinary buyer. The surface is perfectly smooth,
bright, and free from the roughness always observable in
plated jewelry. No wonder the demand that has arisen
recently should necessitate a large section of the establish-
ment being devoted entirely to its production.

In addition to their speciality, the ladies' and gentle-
men's gold-cased chains referred to in the preceding para-
graph, they are now showing a quantity of match-boxes
of various designs, well plated, on B.M., at a price that
almost seems incredible.

R. J. H. STARLING is removing to more extensive
premises at No. 8, Augusta-street, over against No.
44, his late address.

* "We must not be considered as endorsing all, or necessarily any,
of the statements of our correspondent, who writes on his own
responsibility.

MFIRM who certainly does great tribute to enterprise
is that of Mr. A. Sydenham. A day or two ago we
inspected some novelties in jewelry, &c, which he
has for some time past been engaged in preparing.
Evidently from the quantity of goods newly stocked a big
sale is anticipated directly, and, moreover, we understand
the diamonds, rubies, and sapphires displayed by Mr.
Sydenham for our inspection would be, in the course of a
couple of weeks or so, mounted in brooches and ladies'
rings in further new patterns. •

WR. W. H. JOLLY, of Mansfield, has been entrusted
J^L with the order for the production of the costly and
magnificent mayor's chain, the gift of the Duke of Portland'
to the Borough of Mansfield. Though unable to avail him-'
self of the invitation of the corporation to become their,
first mayor the duke has allowed his goodwill and generosity
to extend itself by presenting one of the finest chains of
office to be found in the kingdom. Messrs. T. and J.
Bragg, of Vittoria-street, Birmingham, have designed and
are making this handsome piece of civic jewelry for Mr.1
W. H: Jolly, the well-known jeweler of the town. They are
also at present occupied on a mayoral chain for Leominster.'
This is a very quaint piece of workmanship designed to
represent the historical associations of the borough, and is
executed in the mediaeval style with a number of shields upon
which are engraved the names of the mayors of that ancient
corporation. There is also a very quaint vessica-shaped badge
having the seal of the borough in the centre. The central
link of the chain from which the badge depends is larger
in form than the rest of the links, and is supported by civic
maces— one on each side — and contains the monogram of
the Mayor (Mr. Wm. Plummer) beautifully enamelled.
The chain is intended for the official use of the mayors of
Leominster, and is wrought in gold and is of the most
exquisite workmanship. On the seal of the borough
attached to the chain is the inscription, Sir/ilium Commune
Leoministree. The seal, which is something like six
hundred years old, represents a mayor holding the corporate
seal in his left hand, and in his right an ancient mace.
The badge will be presented to the Corporation of Leo-
minster on the 10th of August, by Mr. Rankin, M.P., to-
gether with the chief steward, the mayor, and the town clerk.

VTTHE " Invicta " brooch, produced by Messrs. Harvey
^x3 and Co., of Frederick Street, Birmingham, as shown
in his advertisement, finds a ready sale. We notice it ex-
hibited pretty freely in the shop windows, which presages
well for an article of such recent introduction.

^HEN firms allow customers a certain period of credit
&]$& it is quite a general custom to book orders ahead
some time previous to the end of the month or quarter.
The following incident, which we can vouch for, struck us
as being pregnant with the utmost "cool cheek" con-
ceivable : — A customer of a firm upon being " whipped up "
for the seventh and last time in the usual stereotyped
" solicitor-threatening " phrases, most ingenuously, and in
all good faith, replied to the effect that "if you would have
the kindness to draw upon me at three years you will be
conferring a benefit, &c, &c." If business on these terms
is to become rife in our midst we may after all congratulate
ourselves that we are not without a fair sprinkling of those
" gentlemen of means " who are quite prepared to convert
our paper into money for a small (?) consideration.

At Birmingham, Albert Richardson was sentenced to
six months' imprisonment for larceny as bailee of watches
left with him to repair.

At Leicester a serious charge was made against William
Jobson, 20, Haymarket, of conspiring with J. W. A. Red-
house, and obtaining by false pretences a large quantity of
jewelry from various firms. A remand was granted.

THE WATCHMAKER, JEWELLER AND SILVERSMITH. [September 1, 1891.

Sheffield flotes.

(By our own Correspondent.)*

HE Cutlers' Company, as everybody knows,
is not now wholly composed of cutlers.
Steel manufacturers and silversmiths have
of late years had their full share of the
honors which the company has to bestow
on its members. It is interesting to note,
therefore, that the Master Cutler-elect is not
only a bona -tide cutler, but a member of a firm that dates
from the early years of the last century. Mr. Robert
Belfitt, of the firm of Messrs. George Butler and Co., of
Trinity W'orks, who has just been unanimously elected
Master Cutler for the ensuing twelve months, has held the
office of Senior Warden for the past year. The firm of
which Mr. Belfitt is a controlling member has had an im-
portant history as regards trade-mark matters. In the
middle of the last century Messrs. George Butler and Co.
carried to a successful issue an important piece of litigation
in defence of their own rights as proprietors of a certain
mark. The Master Cutler-elect, therefore, cannot fail to
have imbibed that spirit so essential to the proper discharge
of the most important functions of his coming office. For
the rest there is no reason to suppose that the more social
duties which fall to be discharged by the Master Cutler
will suffer at the hinds of Mr. Belfitt. The Cutlers' Feast
is fixed to come off on the first Thursday in September.

EVIDENCE of a real advance in artistic taste is seen
in the cards of invitation to the Cutlers' Feast, which
are now being sent out. They take the form of an
old English revival, with their black letters and red initials,
rough paper and untrimmed edges. The card will make an
appropriate souvenir of what will be the 268th Cutlers'
Feast.

21 GATHERING of an interesting character has just
T^T been held at the Cutlers' Hall, at which Mrs. Colver
was the recipient of a most appropriate present. It
consisted of an album containing the photographs of the
children present at the fancy dress ball given by the Mistress
Cutler in February last. The presentation was made on
behalf of the parents, who were present in full force, and
was accompanied by all those accessories of music, flowers,
and general good taste for which Cutlers' Hall gatherings
have been of late years so conspicuous.

Y|7HE majority of firms in the silver and electro-plate
®xs trade are still busy. The demand for novelties on
the part of shopkeepers is being met with more or
less of taste and ingenuity. The proportion of silver
goods as compared with electro-plate continues to increase.
The turning-point of the season being close at hand, manu-
facturers now consider the prosperity of the trade up to
Christmas as being pretty well assured. Any misgivings
to the contrary have been caused solely by the less favor-
able outlook as regards the iron and steel trades.

(35TMONGST opticians since Bank Hobday there seems
fix. to be a good deal of grumbling, not so much for want
of trade as from the difficulty of getting work from
manufacturers ; while the manufacturers are saying they
cannot do impossibilities, which looks as though things
were fairly satisfactory. There is no doubt that in every
town throughout the kingdom far more optical goods are
sold ; especially is this the case with photographic appa-
ratus and microscopes.

• Wn diut not be understood as endorsing all, or necessarily any, of the views of
our corespondent, who wri.ca on his own rc»i>nn?iljility\

Ti AM sorry to see that the address, "Sheffield,
i. England," which some manufacturers are beginning
to strike on their goods, has a foundation of necessity
for its existence which is likely to render the outlandish
innovation a permanent one. It seems that there is a
Sheffield in America and another in Germany. As, there-
fore, the ingenuity of these enterprising nations is not'
unequal to the task of creating in these places firms bear-
ing the same names as those with which we are familiar,
it behoves manufacturers here to frustrate the transparent
trick. Hence the new form of address, which may strike
some as merely a piece of questionable taste.

M RETURNED traveller has been "writing to the
papers " on the subject of the villainous table cutlery
in use in the United States. It has been pointed
out to him, however, that he is laboring under a delusion
in supposing that table knives in America are intended to
cut. The Americans, it is said, don't cut their meat— they
rend it. The carvers in use there, which are unmistakably
English made, are made of good steel, and of course cut
well. The sore place is, however, that the table cutlery is
stamped with the name of " Rodgers " ; and although the
particular " Rodgers " is not specified, yet Messrs. Joseph
Rodgers and Sons, of Sheffield, are naturally not at all
satisfied that liberties are not being taken with their name.

(TOME samples of " German rubbish," stamped with
Js) the name of Sheffield, have recently come to hand.
These goods, it has been found out, are mainly sold in
the Dutch East Indian settlements. Several of our manu-
facturers have therefore determined to register their trade
marks in these countries, which will probably put an end
to the little game of the astute foreigner.

TT7HE silver shield which Mr. H. L. Brown is giving to
^J® be competed for among the Ambulance Societies of
the town promises to be a fair specimen of art work-
manship— that is, if the execution equals the drawing now
on view. It is divided into a series of panels, in which
are representations of the different trades of the town —
especially those most liable to accidents, such as forges,
grinding wheels, and so forth.

'R. A. M. CHAMBERS, of the firm of Newton,
Chambers, and Co., is of opinion that 30 per cent,
of the essential element of coal is wasted in the form
of smoke. This fact is of interest to those manufacturers
who are now finding their profits swallowed up in the en-
hanced price of fuel. It also possesses a languid kind of
interest to those sanguine people who anticipate the aboli-
tion of the smoke nuisance in the near future. This may
account for the latter question being once more broached
in the Town Council. The result, however, cannot be said
to have advanced the problem any nearer a solution.
Member after member got up to detail his experience in the
way of testing infallible remedies. The outcome of the
discussion conveyed the impression that every one of the
expedients for economising fuel and preventing smoke was
a manifest failure. The millennium, therefore, is not yet.

(TtJVlQNGST the novelties we recently noticed at Truro
/jjT works, we thought the new grape-stands very effec-
tive, and, if we may say so, a great improvement
upon those first brought out. The employment of the
art porcelain plates gives them a point, while the graceful
sweep of the stand gives them a characteristic feature which
removes them further from anything that has preceded
them. Their numerous productions of silver flower vases,
of various sizes, from mere tubes up to fifteen inches high,
we know from the trade are finding a good sale in town,
especially amongst foreign buyers.

Septembee i, 1891.] THE WATCHMAKER, JEWELLER AND SILVERSMITH.

Watch and Block Making.

[Continued from page 27.)

(Ar^coer^ ancj Rote^> to Quei&fior^ it&t at ffte
d>it^ anc} @[uifc|i& oj? TsoniloQ #nd>titute
Examination^.

By I. Hebrmann,
Director of the Polytechnic School of Watch and Clock Making.

(II.) — Advanced Papee, 1890.

0 avoid complication this line is not given
in the diagram, but the delivery edge T is
supposed to be on the line WD', and at
the angular distance of ^-deg. from the peri-
phery in reference to centre P. With the
line P R measure off the angle J P
R = (2 — i) = l£deg. Where J P cuts the arc NF',A
■will be the edge of the locking arc of the disengaging
pallet, that is F'. Join F' T, and we have the disengaging
driving plane ; and the pallet is complete, with the excep-
tion of the arms and base, which is sufficiently apparent
from the diagram.

The method thus described may be very well applied
for making pallets practically, thus : — First draw the line
A M T, touching the locking arc at A, and delivery edge
at T, and draw P M perpendicular to A M T. The prac-
tical application involves a system of definite measurement.
For this and similar work I find the millimeter gauge
with a decimal Vernier most convenient, because the units
are small and therefore a decimal -05 of a m.m. (which can
be read on a vernier of ten divisions), sufficiently near for
all general work. (I will not enter on a further description of
such a gauge now, but tender any information that may be
asked for with regard to its use.)

Measure both the radius of the escape wheel of a drawing
(which should be made carefully and as large as possible),
and the radius of the escape wheel for which the pallet is
required ; let a stand for the first and ax for the second, and
b for the distance of P M. Having selected a piece of good
steel sufficiently large (what provision must be made that it is
so, will appear from inspections of the diagram given above),
Select the point P and either centre it with a fine punch, or
drill a hole and insert a temporary stopping with a fine
hole, so that there may be no error of measurement, as may
occur if the centre is bad or the hole large. If the first
mode is used, the hole must first be "drilled with a small
drill, and then followed by a larger and a turned drill, so
that the hole does not run out. Our first object is to find
the distance of the line, corresponding to A T, from the
centre thus marked. Let x denote that distance, then by
proportion

« : a1 \\ b '. x
whence

a, b , ,

x = -L- . . . . (a)
a

1 may mention, for those that do not know it, that in any

algebraic or symbolic expression where any number of

letters stand each for a quantity, and are unconnected

by any sign, it always means that when the quantities are

substituted they would have to be multiplied; thus a, I

means a x b. For example, suppose the radius of the escape

wheel in the diagram measures 100m. m. and the radius

for which the pallet is required 16 ; and that P M in the

diagram is 80m.m., then for («) we have

16 x 80

x = ■

100

= 12-8m.m.
which means that the distance of the straight face corre-

sponding to the line A M T, for the solid material, from the
centre of the pallet is to be 12-8m.m.

I may as well observe that this is the final measure.
Hence a margin for this and all other measures must be
allowed for the process of polishing, which quantity again
depends on the skill and practice of the workman.

The next measure will be the arc T K. Let c denote its
distance from P in the diagram, and xx in the solid
material ; then again

a : cq : : d : xt
whence

(fi)

In similar way let d and x„ denote the respective measures
corresponding to the arc A E , then again

hence

a d

(y)

Then we proceed to determine the inclination of the
driving plane A O. First produce (very carefully) A O,
and draw the perpendicular P V, and measure the distance
P V, and denote this by e, and the corresponding measure
for the solid pallet by x3, then, as before

whence again

«i . . e ; x3

(3)

With the measure xs describe a circle on the solid
pallet, and draw a line from A, touching this circle ) thus,
if the pallet is filed down to this edge it gives the direction
of the driving plane A 0.

In just the same way draw T F'R' and the perpendicular
PR'; let the latter be denoted by /, and the correspond-
ing one with solid material by xv then

x^ajt (?)

which is to be used identically in the same way as x3 in (8) .

Lastly, the locking arc F' N and inside arc 0 S have to
be determined, which is done again by taking P F' and
P 0 respectively as the third terms in the proportion.

I may observe that to ensure the arcs A E and F' N
being true they can be completed in the mandrel.

After this it will be expedient to adjust them finally
practically in connection with the wheel, especially by
reason of these necessary margins. For this object I do
not recommend the depthing tool, because, unless special
optical appliances are used, it is difficult to observe the
action suffici: nt.

The appliance I find more handy is as follows : — Take a
rectangular flat piece of brass, and mount a stud carrying
either wheel or pallet, and fix a stud, on to which the pallet
is placed friction tight. A small platform moving in
dovetails then carries a stud which supplies the centre of
the wheel, and thus the action can be very conveniently
observed. Before they are smoothed with a steel polisher
and oilstone dust there ought to be no or scarcely any
drop, as that process generally will give sufficient. In
making the final adjustment before the operation last
described it is important to observe the following geometrical
conditions : — If the pallet spans over very few spaces — say,
not more than four — any alteration in the depth scarcely
affects the drop. On the other hand, if the pallet spans
over about ten to eleven teeth, varying the distance of the
centres affects the drop only, and the depth scarcely at all.
Between these extremes any variation in the distance
affects both the depth and the drop, so that any alteration
for the depth involves opening or closing of the pallets,
and, conversely, opening or closing involves an alteration
of the distance of the centres.

THE WATCHMAKER, JEWELLER AND SILVERSMITH. [September 1, 1891.

These conditions require to be kept well in view during
the final adjustment, otherwise very likely the operation
will be a failure. I do not think it necessary to harden
the pallets beyond the scaping action, and leave that part
dead hard.

I use another method of making pallets from calculated
tables for those who do not care to make drawings. But
the above is a more universal method, and is applicable to
every kind of pallet and of all dimensions. With a little
practice a drawing is made comparatively in a few minutes,
and provides a safe and systematic method.

The arcs E A and F' N, and the driving planes A 0 and
F' T, should be well polished or jeweled, and no emery used
at any time.

(To be continued.)

By the Editor.
(Continued from page 28.)

The Monoclinic System.
The Natural Forms of Sphene.

E are now introduced to a new feature in
crystallography ; in the mono-, di-, and tri-
metric systems the axes are all at right
angles to each other, giving rise to great
bi-lateral symmetry. But with the two
clinic systems to follow, the axes are not all at mutual
right angles. In the monoclinic one is inclined ; and in
the triclinic all three are inclined to each other. Now the
amount of the inclination of the axes varies in different
species, giving rise to forms whose outlines are very dis-
similar. When, however, the inclination of the inclined
axis is not far removed from a right angle the resultant
forms are scarcely distinguishable from those belonging to
the last described system, which has indeed induced some
crystallographers to regard the two clinic systems as
varieties of the trimetric ; a hypothesis, however, which
cannot be mathematically supported, and which would
indeed subvert the whole science of crystallography, as
we should find out should we study the higher branches of
gemmology and microscopy.

In the monoclinic system there are three axes of unequal
lengths, as in the trimetric ; but differing in that, instead
of lying all at right angles, one is inclined to one of the
others. The vertical axis being taken as the principal,
the axis which is inclined to it is called the clinodiagonal,
and the other which lies at right angles to it the ortho-
diagonal. On account of the obliquity thus produced the
faces are not bi-laterally symmetrical ; the anterior and
posterior prismatic planes are unequally inclined to the
basal plane, and the front and back planes above and below
the middle of figures differ in size and form. On referring
back to fig. 84, it will be observed that the building up of
a double pyramid upon three unequal axes at right angles
gave rise to a figure with eight triangular faces : two pairs
above the girdle and two pairs below, being equal to each
other. If, however, the axis b of that figure were lifted up
at the back, i.e., inclined to the vertical, it is evident that

they would alter the shape of every face upon the crystal ;
nor would the larger faces any longer be isosceles triangles,
but scalene, and the face a b c on the right would become
smaller than the face a b c on the left, in proportion as the
obliquity was increased.

Now although, as a matter of fact, simple forms of this
system are somewhat rare in the mineral kingdom we
have good examples of them in the gem under consideration.
Indeed, I think it might be said that as the Sphene excels
all gems in fiery splendor (diamond included), just so does
it exceed all others in variety of forms. It is a great pity
it is so little known and so rare, but as the Sphene was not
known till the early part of the present century it is partly
to be accounted for. Like many other gems it is usually
found in more or less water-worn pebbles ; but crystalline
faces are often present, which serve to distinguish it from
spodumene, olivine, andalusite and chrysoberyl pebbles, and
which it sometimes roughly resembles. Its name is from
o-$7]v, a wedge, in allusion to the wedge-shape form put on
by many of its crystals both simple and highly compli-
cated. A beautiful example of a simple crystal is given in
fig. 43 ; it illustrates the differences pointed out when
speaking of fig. 37. At first sight it might be mistaken
for a form belonging to the trimetric system, but closer
inspection will show that the two large front faces are not
isosceles triangles, but scalene. Moreover, it will be seen
that the two top faces are not equal, but that the top left
is equal to the bottom right, and that the top right is equal
to the bottom left. Otherwise it may be regarded as a
prism upon a rhombic base formed by the narrow planes
running round the centre, terminated by a pyramid top
and bottom. Such a pyramid might rise in several steps,
forming faces bearing different values to the length of the
vertical axis : or it might be truncated by a basal plane
which might be only a mere speck ; or it might be a broad
flat plane to the annihilation of the pyramid altogether. The
front edge of the girdle might also be replaced by a plane
parallel to the vertical or orthodiagonal axis, which also
might be of any size, and if developed all round would
quite destroy th6 present prism, producing another bearing
the same relations to the former as exist between prisms of
the two orders in other systems. The planes parallel to
the orthodiagonal axis are called orthopinacoids, and those
parallel to the clinodiagonal, clinopinacoids. They may
occur either by themselves, or associated with planes of
the other prism, and may further be modified by the
alteration of its relation to the orthodiagonal axis, and so
give the prism a faceted appearance. Further, the edges
of the pyramid may be replaced in somewhat similar
manner.

Fig. 44 gives an illustration in point. The three large
median faces are prismatic faces ; the two outside ones are
similar to those in Fig. 43, whilst the central is an ortho-
pinacoid ; the next two faces in the zone above are pyra-
midal faces following upon the rhombic prism, and there-
fore the faces of the rhombic pyramid. It will be noticed
that the centre face is not immediately followed by a
pyramidal face, but is so a little higher, assisting to add to
the chisel or wedge-shape aspect of the crystal. It must
be remembered that the upper planes are equal to the
lower planes of the other side, which together with other
characteristics of this gem give it its wedge-shape, a
feature so eminently characteristic as to distinguish it at a
glance from any other gem. There are a large number of
forms of crystals very different in outline, all of which may
be immediately recognised by the flat wedge-shape aspect
presenting a sort of sat-upon appearance.

The twinning and macleing in this system, which gives
rise to such quaint and curious forms, must not be passed
over. If we bear in mind that opposite planes in the same
zone are not symmetrical, we shall be prepared to meet
with very odd-looking forms. These are formed principally
by revolution on the orthodiagonal, or on a vertical axis ;

September 1, 1891.]

THE WATCHMAKER, JEWELLEE AND SILVERSMITH.

the former possibly being the commonest forms met with,
one of which is shown in fig. 45, which is a thin elongated
form with a re-entering angle along one side. Sometimes
these forms are further united along their backs in double
twins or fours. These re-entering angles are most remark-
able. Often they look as though the crystal bad had an
angular furrow cut out along the centre of each face of the
prism ; sometimes it is only very small, but at others it is
quite large. I would have illustrated this feature, but that
it is difficult to show in outline. I would, however, refer the
student to the magnificent set of models of this gem in the
Natural History Museum, south side of the Mineralogical
Gallery.

And, further, it may be remarked that this gem also
occurs in hemimorphic forms, in which the planes of the
opposite ends of the crystals become unlike, sometimes
presenting quite heart-shaped outlines. One great feature
to remember is that the basal plane is not at right angles
to the orthopinacoid. Consequently in some of the more
complex forms, what is really the basal plane looks more
as though it might be a pyramidal face ; but by remember-
ing the obliquity of the axial intersections of the vertical
and clinodiagonal axes these errors will be obviated.
(To be continued.)

(Ufte ©iamoriiL 9iefiL&.

(By Vaalite.)

LTHOUGH in my last letter I described things
here as being in a most complicated and
unsatisfactory state, it is very certain they
are much more so now. The affairs of the
Wesselton mine are no more settled, and
there are so many rumours, and such a
number of conflicting actions being taken
by so many parties, that one is quite at a loss
to understand where it can possibly end. It is,
however, very certain that the De Beers company, upon
whose stability the price of diamonds hinges, are fully
aware of the importance of the Premier (Wesselton) mine,
and owing to the quantity of diamonds that have been
put upon the market from other sources they have not
sold a stone for two months. It is certain they bave no easy
matter in hand to maintain their position, as they are in
bad odor in the eyes of a very large portion of the
populace here, in fact, only the other night an attempt
was made to blow up their offices with dynamite ; whether
this was done out of spite, or for the purpose of trying to
get some of the valuable contents of the offices, no one can
say, but most people are inclined to the idea that it was
simply to show the unpopularity of the company, and not
for purposes of theft. Be that as it may, the De Beers
have offered £500 and the Kimberley Detective Department
another £500 for information that shall lead to the conviction
of the offender or offenders. Nor have several features
which have recently developed tended to popularise the
De Beers ; firstly, they have given notice that the licences
for debris washing will not be renewed, notwithstanding
the efforts of Mayors and Corporations of Kimberley and
Beaconsfield, who have brought the utmost of their
pressure to bear upon the Government to resume posses-
sion of No. 2 area, which the Government as good as
promised to do ; but " De Beers " immediately announced
that as soon as any Government notice aj>peared they
should apply for an interdict. It will of course be seen
that the position of the company is anything but enviable.
They have been obliged to shut down two of the four
principal mines, and so shut out a large number of laborers,
who, in many cases, are standing idle ; now, bowever
willing they might be to allow them to wash the debris,
it is certain that their recovering diamonds and putting

them on the market must operate in the opposite direction
to the policy of the De Beers company, and must tend to
keep the market low : the average price now being about
27s. 6d.

It must not be forgotten that the. diamonds now
have to be actually mined ; diamond digging is a thing of
the past, so far as the old mines are concerned ; and only
a small quantity of the diamondiferous material can be
employed, the other has to stand for pillars and roofs of
the various levels, so that the procuring of diamonds is a
very expensive operation. And then they have their
shareholders to remember, as before any dividend is earned
upon the £3,950,000 ordinary capital, interest has to be
taken for £4,903,400 of debentures and other obligations.
That people begin to realise this, is evident from the
come down in De Beers shares ; last year they topped £23,
and now they have fallen below £11.

Secondly, it has long been feared that De Beers would
buy up the Wesselton, and so deprive the public of the
opportunity of working it ; every action the company has
taken has been watched with jealous eyes, and when none
was visible suspicion seemed all the stronger. But the
question is, what would they do with it ? They would
probably have to give a fair valuation for it, which might
mean another million to their now over capitalised concern,
and then to keep up their limited market they would
either have to shut it down, or develop it sufficiently to
shut down the other mines. Of course should the Wessel-
ton turn out as productive as the other two mines now
being worked, and there is nothing to show it is not —
as 19,000 carats have been discovered in prospecting, to
say nothing of those found by the rushers — being nearer
the surface it could be worked much cheaper for a long
time. It is perhaps this latter fact which embitters the
public against the De Beers getting hold of the new mine.

Turning to the Wesselton mine itself, without troubling
you with the conflicting order in which many of the phases
presented themselves, I must point out a few of the cir-.
cumstances connected with the rival claimants. Some of
the cases have already been decided in the Superior Courts,
but unfortunately the minor claims appear to have been
settled first, which may have to be altered when the other cases
are tried. Messrs. Siebel, Walsh and Eland, whose case
will be heard next term, claim they are the original
concessionaires, and that Ward was only admitted a
partner upon payment of £2,000, but that not having very
much faith in it, Siebel and Walsh left for Johannesburg.
Ward, however, maintaining his belief, persisted with his
working, but of course required money to do it ; this was
supplied by Messrs. Coronel and Lawrence upon certain
deeds of agreement. This case has been taken first, and
these two gentlemen have been awarded either a fourth or
fifth share each. But Coronel was already greatly indebted
with the bank of the Cape of Good Hope, to whom he
ceded his interest. This it appears the De Beers bought,
together with Lawrence's share, and further found the
needful to carry the case against Ward. In this way the
De Beers have become practical possessors cf the mine.
What sort of face the new trial may put upon this remains
to be seen, as the new claimants claim three-quarters _ of
the mine. There are also other claimants for shares with
Ward in the mine, so that what his position will come
out in the end is doubtful. Mr. Ward has now appealed
to Her Majesty in Her Privy Council, where no doubt tbe
whole case will be settled, and will turn out one of the
most complicated trials on the rolls. But it seems very
certain that the De Beers consider they will come out with
the practical control of the new mine, and this is strength-
ened by the fact that Major Wollaston, an officer in their
service, is now engaged with four powerful steam gears
and 1,000 men to survey and define the mine on all sides,
and have already proved it to be the largest and richest
mine in the world.

THE WATCHMAKER. JEWELLER AND SILVERSMITH. [September 1, 1891.

Meanwhile the other mines all round are looking
favorable. Messrs. Rhodes and Barnato have just pur-
chased the whole of the Koffyfontein mine, and with
another wheel-within-wheel appearance they have made Mr.
Owen Hall, one of the principal debris agitators, manager
of it. The returns of the Koftyfontein mine for April,
May, and June show 845 carats, valued at £1,425. May
llof carats, valued at £1,790, and June 1,343 carats,
valued at £2,162 10s. ; which includes one of 33^, one
27, one 25, one 21, and one 17A- carats.

There is a large quantity of prospecting going on, and in
several districts I hear of very favorable indications.
That the diamontliferous pipes burst through the country
in other parts besides Kimberley, Bultfontein, Du Toits
and De Beers is certain, not only from the Augustine,
but by the far distant Jagersfontein, and other outstanding
mines ; to say nothing of the fact that diamonds are found
a long way up into the interior in river drifts, which must
at some time have cut through diamond-bearing strata.
Moreover the "yellow" and "blue" are reported in a
number of localities where prospecting is going on, amongst
which reference might be made to Gowie's Prospect,
who have license to prospect over the Government estate ;
between De Beers and the cemetery they have sunk a shaft,
and stones have been found in digging the graves from time
to time, indeed it is maintained by many that the cemetery
is a veritable mine.

The New Jagersfontein having now amalgamated with
the United Jagersfontein, will start under new manage-
ment on a large scale in October. The quality of the
Jagersfontein stones is proverbial, but of course only a part
of the stones sold as Jagers are river stones at all. The
total of all the river diggings has probably never reached a
hundred thousand carats in a year, the average price of
which is nearly double that of Kimberley, In June,
however, Jagersfontein put out 9,832 carats valued at
£16,950, and even this is less than the average for the last
three years.

Another prospector is energetically at work at Thomp-
son's Kopje, which will probably turn out a second
Wesselton.

Good news also comes from St. Augustine, where the
blue is now of much better quality at 20ft. from the shaft.

The N.E. Bultfontdn are still at work favorably,
turning out about 5,000 carats a month, and greatly in-
creasing the amount of blue upon the floors. An industrial
exhibition is on foot in Kimberley, towards which the
Government promise a grant of £1,000, Mr. Rhodes and
Mr. Barnato £500 each, and De Beers Company intend
coming out largely. Many people have left the diamond
district and gone up country to the gold fields. I hear of
marvellous discoveries which have been made by old
diamond diggers, who are content at the present with only
developing the reefs, and finding out their extent, some
of the figures are enough to frighten one. If they are doing
this it will account for July's return of gold not being quite
so high. But a better future is in store for the Rand, as
you will see if you watch the share list from now, when
they are at low water.

The cost of the gold casket presented to the Emperor of
Germany at the Guildhall was £262 10s.

At the Acadamy of Sciences, Paris, on August 3rd, M.
Ernst Schering read a paper upon induction inclination
needles, in which he described a new magnetic inclination
needle, by which he claimed it was possible to determine
inclination with a probable error not exr ^eding 4-2".

We are pleased to see the grand old r me of Dollond is
likely to maintain its supremacy. Tlv remises at the top
of Ludgate Hill being wanted for stre improvements, the
firm has moved lower down the hill, where, amongst other
things, they have fitted up a room on the most elaborate
principles for amateurs.

©Jran^atfarrLic ^otting^.

,MONGST the Watch Factory Notes one might men-
tion the following : The Elgin Watch Company are
exporting several hundred movements per month to the
English trade, among them being a large number of a,
special 14-size key winder, gilt f-plate. (If this is so, we
presume they are being sold as Elgin make.)

AL. Jf. JJ,

TV- Tf *A*

(3T NEW Watch Company, The Champion, was recently
JdL organized at Rockford for the manufacture of a watch
for which is claimed a wonderful character, and
which will be sold at about two dollars.

* * *

\|/HE ever increasing development of the Crescent Watch
^1® Case Company has outgrown the present large
factories at Brooklyn, and they are now about to re-
move to Newark, N.J., where they have secured a plot of
ground four acres in extent, upon which they are raising a
new five storey building. They have also purchased the
silver case plant of the American Watch Company, which
will be removed from Waltham to Newark.

*««, -it.

TT7HE Dueber Watch Case Manufacturing Company and
®J® the Hampden Watch Company, Canton, Ohio, are
very busy with sufficient work on hand to last some
time.

* # *

VTTHE San Jose Watch Company are nearly complete with
®J® factory and cottages, and hope to have their watches
out before September.

* ft *

fN Electric Clock Factory will shortly be in operation
at Danville, Ky., all the necessary capital having
been subscribed.

# # #

T©)ECENT legislation in America is causing some amount
J3C of additional expense and trouble in many quarters.
The weekly paying of workmen might be quoted as one
instance, as with piece-work, work is in all stages of
development come pay day.

* # #
(3TN0THER instance is the so-called " Anti-Trust " laws

jfc± which have been passed lately, notably the one en-
titled " An Act to provide for the punishment of
persons, co-partnerships or corporations forming pools,
trusts, combines, etc.," which came into operation
in July last. This Act provides among other things
that "if any corporation, co-partnership, individual,
or other association of persons whatsoever shall create,
enter into, become a part or party to any pool,
trust, agreement, combination, confederation, or un-
derstanding with any other corporation, co-partnership,
individual, or any other person or association of per-
sons, to regulate or fix the price of any article of merchan-
dise or commodity, such corporation, co-partnership, or
individual, or other association of persons shall be deemed
and adjudged guilty of conspiracy to defraud and be sub-
ject to indictment and punishment as provided in this
Act." Section 3 provides for penalties upon conviction of
from 500dols. to 15,000dols. Section 6 provides that " any
purchaser of any article or commodity from any individual,
company, or corporation transacting business contrary to
any provision of the preceding section of this Act shall not
be liable for the price or payment of such article or com-
modity, and may plead this Act as a defence to any suit for
uch price or payment."

* * *-

fflF so serious a nature is this that some of the leading
HJ firms have sent out the notice that they have elected
to cancel and terminate all contracts under which they

September 1, 1891.] THE WATCHMAKER, JEWELLER AND SILVERSMITH.

have heretofore sold their products. And further, such
organisations as the National Association of Jobbers in
American watches have had to dissolve, as it was for this
object, amongst others, that it existed, being formed six
years ago for the purpose of promoting the best interests of
the trade, and the settlement of a uniform price to the whole-
sale and retail dealers. At the last meeting of the Associa-
tion, convened for the purpose of rescinding its former
laws, and reorganising the Association under another name,
the Secretary remarked that there was probably no occupa-
tion that offered more opportunity or greater temptation to
practice deception and impose on the public than the watch
and jewelry businesses ; and paying a well-earned tribute
to the mother country, he contrasted it favorably with the
U.S., observing that in England and other countries the
Government educated the people by compelling the use of
a hall mark denoting quality. In the U.S. there was no
such protection, and the members of the National Associa-
tion proposed and desired to deal only in such goods as
had recognised merit.

sss*e

Ufie MariCetA.

©■Sit

uan

We regret to record the death of a well-known scientific
optician, Mr. John Mayall, Junr. As is known to most of
our readers, he was not only a great master of the photo-
grapher's art, but he took a very prominent position in the
scientific world, and contributed many very valuable papers
both practical and theoretical. He was also one of the
Secretaries of the Royal Microscopical Society. Going
out in a shower he got wet and caught a cold, and, sad to
say, he was dead in three days !

Death has also snatched from us a man of great pro-
mise in the person of Mr. Willoughby Smith, whose re-
searches in connection with selenium were looked forward
to by many, pointing as they did to seeing by electricity,
and demonstrating the practicability of the " telephote."
Whether this property discovered by him in selenium, of
having its resistance lessened when a ray of light falls upon
it, will be discovered in any other substance to a degree
sufficient to be made use of, time only can show, but let us
hope it will, as selenium is now both rare and costly.

Me. A. Braxton Hicks, the Mid-Surrey Coroner, held an
inquest at Abbot's Dene, The Green, Richmond, Surrey,
touching the death of John Cockburn, aged 59 years, a
jeweler, lately residing at the above address, and carrying
on business at George Street, Richmond, who committed
suicide on Friday morning. The evidence showed that the
deceased, who was suffering from a cancerous tumour in
the neck, which had been pronounced incurable, shot him-
self dead in bed with a revolver. The jury returned a verdict
' ' That the deceased shot himself while in a temporary
state of insanity, caused by the painful nature of his
illness," and added that they sympathised with the family
in their bereavement.

A report comes from South America of a wonderful find
of gold ornaments, coins and precious stones, in an old
monastery which was being demolished. Over 70,000,000
dols. worth up to the present time have been discovered,
but how many noughts have to come off this we should
hardly like to say. The treasures are supposed to have
been secreted by the Jesuits previous to their expulsion
from Brazil. Half of the treasure goes to the finder and
half to the Government. The excavations are not yet
finished, and it is thought that still more treasures may be
found in the secret vaults which are being opened under
the old monastery.

SILVER.
Silver has maintained its firmness with a slight
tsndency to decline on the whole, so that after numerous
small fluctuations it now stands at 45 3-16, nor is the
larger figure altered in advance till Feb.
COPPER.
Copper was much easier at the commencement of the
month, being quoted at £51 10s. Within a few days an
advance set in carrying it up to £53 2s. 6d. G. M. B., after
which it declined till it reached its present price,
£52 10s. Od.

SPELTER-

The price of spelter has been steady, and practically
remains unaltered at about £23. 10s.

LEAD.

Lead has been dull and easy all the month, standing
now at £12 2s. 6d.

ZINC

Zinc has changed hands at £26.
QUICKSILVER.

Quicksilver has been a little easier so that Rothschild
has had to drop 5/ to £7 10s. Od.

IVORY.

There was a good demand at the quarterly sales although
the prices were somewhat irregular, but on the whole they
were about equal to the last.

MOTHER-O'-PEARL SHELLS-

The last periodical auctions held in London presented
the larger supply of 2,957 cases, 562 casks, 969 bags (not
including 1,267 packages Shark's Bay and Linga) against
2,510 cases, 235 casks, 480 bags at the June sales, and
3,408 cases, 138 casks, 171 bags at the August auctions
last year. With an active demand for most descriptions
the sales went off with good spirit, and nearly the whole
was sold. The bulk again consisted of Australian, which
met a continually increasing demand as the sales progressed,
and the whole sold with competition at a general advance
in value — Sydney at a rise of 5s. to 7s. 6d. for bold sizes,
15s. to 17s. 6d. for thin medium, 12s. 6d. to 15s. for
chicken, and 7s. 6d. for pickings. West Australian showing
an advance of 5s. to 10s. for bold, 2s. 6d. to 5s. for medium,
about 10s. for chicken, and 7s. 6d. to 10s. for pickings.
Manila sold steadily for bold, chicken being 7s. 6d. to 10s.,
and pickings 5s. dearer. Bombay sold irregularly, bold
being 5s. dearer, medium and small without decided
change; thin, small, and oyster 5s. lower. Larger supplies
of Egyptian went off flatly, and prices were mostly 2s. 6d.
to 5s. lower. A good supply of black-edged was offered,
but Tahiti sold readily at full rates to some advance, whilst
Banda met only lower offers, and were chiefly bought in.
984 cases, 9 boxes, 29 bags Sydney and Queensland
all sold : Bold and medium shells part yellow-edged
and partly wormy backs, £8 10s. to £9 ; good to fine
white, £9 2s. 6d. to £9 17s. 6d. ; thin medium selected,
part yellow to fine, £8 17s. 6d. to £9 17s. 6d. ; one lot
£8 12s. 6d. ; chicken, £9 to £9 17s. 6d. ; bold defective
pickings, 87s. 6d. to 107s. 6d. ; dead, 42s. to 90s. ; broken
pieces, £6 5s. to £7 2s. 6d. 907 cases 80 hogsheads 25
boxes 41 bags West Australian all sold, with the exception
of 50 cases in second hands : Bold and medium shells,
bold and thick bold, more or less wormy, £6 7s. 6d. to
£7 2s. 6d. ; fair to good, partly Fremantle ; character,
£7 5s. to £7 12s. 6d. ; thin medium selected, fair to
good, £8 2s. 6d. to £9 5s.; chicken, £8 15s. to £9 17s. 6d. ;
bold defective pickings, 77s. 6d. to 105s. ; dead 21s. to
72s. 6d. ; broken pieces £6 5s. to £7 5s. 559 cases 107
casks 131 baskets, &c, black edged went off as follows : —
Of 107 casks 426 cases 21 bags Tahiti kinds 100 casks 250
cases 21 bags sold : fair to good bold, £5 12s. 6s. to £6
10s. ; fine, £7 5s. ; medium, £5 10s. to £6 12s. 6d. ; fine,

TITE WATCHMAKER, JEWELLER AND SILVERSMITH. [September 1, 1891.

£7 7s. 6d. ; small, 90s. to 107s. 6d. ; blistered, 50s. to 60s.;
broken, 80s. to 85s. Auckland character, &c, bold, 85s.
to 95s. ; medium, 80s. to 92s. 6d. ; small, 72s. 6d. to 90s. ;
blistered, •12s. to 17s. 6d. ; broken, 60s. to 65s. 24 cases
blistered Auckland sold at 19s. 18 cases 8 bags Fiji chiefly
sold ; bold medium and small, 55s. to 60s. ; blistered, 18s.
to 15s. 9 baskets small Macassar sold at 55s. Of 102
cases 98 baskets Banda only 30 cases good sorts sold at
65s. Of 17 cases 50 casks 2,149 bags Shark's Bay 280
packages sold ; good clean stout, 40s. to 47s. ; ordinary to
fair small, 23s. to 80s. ; inferior thin small, 17s. to 19s. ;
stale pickings, 5s. and 18s. per cwt.

TORTOISESHELL.

The supply at the auctions on August 12 was very
moderate, though some quantity of old lots was offered.
There was a brisk demand, and prices of West India,
Honduras, &c, show a general advance of Is. to 2s. per lb.
for shell and hoof, and yellowbelly is decidedly firmer at
improved prices. Some fine pale shell realised extravagant
rates. Zanzibar and Bombay were about Is. dearer.
Singapore and Macassar were firm. Sydney was rather
higher, and 803 lbs. shell were offered, and 598 sold dearer:
small to bold, good mottle, part stout, 20s. to 23s. ; pick-
ings, defective fair to good heavy, 14s. 6d. to 16s. 6d. ;
ordinary to good Brisbane pickings, lis. to 12s. 6d.
Hoof. — 159 lbs. offered and 98 sold: dark scabby and
burnt, lis. to 13s. 6d. ; Brisbane, dark thin, 4s. Yellow-
belly. — 166 lbs. offered and sold, thin dark red, 2s. 9d.
per lb.

Mes. Ayek, a rich American widow, is now staying at the
Savoy Hotel, and learning London society under the tutelage
of Mrs. Ronalds. Her wonderful triple row of pearls, which
never leaves her neck by night or day, is said to have cost \
a fortune ; and she is, beyond doubt, one of the wealthiest
women in America. Her great wealth comes to her from
her husband, who died nearly twenty years ago. The base
of his fortune was made through the manufacture of patent
medicines, but the money made through such sources was
most successfully expended in real estate all over the
United States ; and from that source now comes the bulk
of the income. During his life Mr. Ayer was a most
ardent collector of unset jewels, all of which he left to his
widow. Her collection of pearls is one of the finest in
America, and has been gradually and most carefully made.
Mrs. Ayer has one pair of pearl earrings which cost £8,000,
but it was some years before the second pearl was found.
Besides these sets of pearls there are others of rubies,
sapphires, and diamonds fit for the Royal jewel coffers.

The old standard clock belonging to Messrs. Barraud
and Lunds, of Cornhill, will be placed in the doorway of
the new premises, No. 26, Cornhill. This reliable friend
of the public was the first standard clock in London. So
long as 130 years ago it was doing duty at Barraud's, Wine
Office Court. At No. 41 the constant stream of people
who came to consult its truthful face was estimated at
one thousand a day, and the continual stopping and turn-
ing of so many feet made frequent renewals of the particular
piece of pavement needful.

It is announced that a Freib urg watchmaker is patent-
ing two important inventions. One is an automatic /
electrical apparatus for tramways which will record the
number of passengers, and the other an electric switch
arrangement, by means of which a train will signal itself
and even take the right points of its own accord.

The Lick Observatory, we are pleased to say, escaped
the destruction from forest fire with which it was threatened,
and is still pursuing its good work. A telegram from the
observatory states that Encke'speriodic comet was observed
on its return on August 1-9958, G. M. T., in the position
R. A. 3h. 55m. 20-6s., Decl. 29deg. 59' N.

@ur Llr^CDrouglpf Maferiaf^.

Discovery of Native Tron.
j T a recent meeting of the French Academy of
Scienc js, MM. Daubree and Meunier gave the
results of examinations of samples of native
iron found in gold washings near Berezowsk,
Persia, weighing respectively 11-5 grams,
and 72 grams. It was readily attacked by
acid, but did not show the Widmanstatten figures (as is
the case when acid is applied to a clean face of a meteorite),
which, together with the fact that nickel is absent, lead the
authors to conclude that the iron is truly native. Although
the metal is very magnetic, it shows no polarity. It has a
density of 7-59, and contains about one per cent, of
platinum.

PHICKENS AS piAMOND piGGERS.

We have frequently heard of instances where chickens
have been bought in large quantities and turned out to
pick up their own living, and after a time killed for the
sake of the gold which accumulated in their crops. Lately
a two grain diamond was found in the crop of a chicken
purchased at a butcher's on Long Island. It would be
interesting to know if it was a cut stone, or a rough one ;
if the latter, then the farm ought to be found out upon
which the chicken fed. The discovery of the South
African diamonds had its origin in a phase in domestic
life even more humble than this.

Aluminum Steel.

Important communications on the above subject have
been made to the American Institute of Mining Engineers
by Professors Langley and Arnold, which show that very
small quantities of aluminum render cast steel perfectly
sound. Small pieces of aluminum are thrown on to the
ladle during the tapping, which melts almost instantane-
ously, and diffuses through the whole of the steel. From
a half to one pound of aluminum is sufficient for Bessemer
steel. When the steel contains more than 5 per cent, of
carbon the aluminum should be used cautiously in amounts
of from a quarter to a half pound to the ton. They detailed
a number of experiments which point to the action being a
chemical one ; and that the action of aluminum is about
twenty times as powerful as that of silicon, the aluminum
being shown to reduce carbonic oxide at a temperature
below that of melting steel, to which gas in an occluded
form blow-holes are mainly due. In one of these researches
they blew forty gallons of pure carbonic oxide through a
crucible of molten aluminum steel, with the result that the
carbon in the steel was increased by 35 per cent, owing to
the reduction of the gas. They further maintain that the
manganese can be dispensed with, and considerable time
and fuel saved.

EMPERING BY ELECTRICITY

An exhibition has been made at Boston, U.S., of a
process invented by Mr. George Burnton, by means of
which the forging and tempering of obdurate metals is
accomplished with the aid of electricity. The inventor
succeeded in melting a bar of steel lin. in diameter and 12in.
long in forty-five seconds, without raising the temperature
of the room in which the experiment was made. He after-
wards made a steel railway spike, cutting the bar the
required length by passing the pieces through an electrical
machine, heating it at one end, after which the bar was passed
to a die, which stamped its head upon the heated end, the
compression being done without beating. An auger screw
was then made out of a flat iron bar, which, being fastened
to the machine at both ends, was heated almost instantane-
ously, and twisted into the required spiral by an automatic
turn of the machine. The inventor has a special machine
for making the spherical ball bearings used in the manufac-
ture of bicycles.

Sbptembeb 1, 1801.]

THE WATCHMAKER, JEWELLER' AND SILVERSMITH.

JlEW yW.ETAL AND ALLOYS.

A new metal is said to have been discovered, to which
the name gnomiunt has been given. Beyond the merest
announcement, -there is nothing yet published of its nature,
qualities, or value. It has been found associated with
cobalt and nickel, both of which metals have been looked •
upon rather suspiciously by many chemists for a long time.
Some accounts state that the new metal has been dis-
covered in both nickel and cobalt ; if so, it would point to
these last two not being elements, an opinion which has
been expressed before.

There are several new alloys that have been invented to
take the place of gold, one especially altogether differing
from anything else, but which we should require to see
before we published what is claimed for it.

The solution of the anti-magnetic problem has not yet
been effected. In addition to palladium — which, doubtless,
is immensely superior to anything else employed — we
have Hadfield's manganese steel; we have " Woltine," com-
posed of platinum and gold; "Wolfor," composed of
wolfram and gold ; " Mangor," composed of manganese and
gold ; " Cadmine " and " Aror," in which cadmium enters
largely, in the latter it is associated with gold and man-
ganese. These together with some more complicated
alloys, such as " Manium," which is composed of platinum,
bismuth, copper, and manganese, go to swell up the list of
alloys that are brought forward for this purpose. We still,
however, think that if the difficulty is to be overcome at
all, which it certainly can be, a diamagnetic should be
made to compensate a paramagnetic body.

JIich jsilvef^ Deposits in Wales.

News has reached us, which, however, we should require
• confirming before we gave it as correct of a rich and exten-
sive deposit of silver ore said to have been found in..
Cardiganshire. It is stated that the deposit has been
proved to a width of 150ft., and contains on assay 27-J-oz.
of silver per ton of ore. A practical .silver mining
engineer estimates that upon an output of only 50 tons per
day a profit of £30,000 per annum can be made.

j*. J^ew ^Substitute fof^ Platinum.

Numeeous attempts have been made to obtain a metal
substitute for platinum but without any great amount of
success, the popular metal Aluminum having in several
cases been asserted, when alloyed according to " the
discovery " of its advocate, to be equal in every respect.
The latest claimant in the field is composed of iron, nickel,
silicon, cobalt and gold or silver, which, while not
possessing the acid resisting power of platinum, has a
co-efficient of expansion the same as glass, so that for
many purposes it will be of great use.

Fp^eshwatef^ Pfaf^ls.

Visitors to the Fisheries Exhibition will remember the
glorious display of nacreous shells belonging to the
unionidas of the fresh waters of America. Every shape and
size conceivable were represented, with no other apparent
tie than that they all possessed the same brilliant nacreous
inside to their variously ornamented shells, and were all
capable under certain conditions of producing pearls.
There can be no doubt that during what may; be called the
late pearl-hunting fever, some very fine specimens have
certainly been taken. One Milwaukee firm sold to a New
York dealer three specimens for l,600dols., while some are
said to have realized as much as several thousand dollars
each, and hundreds brought prices varying from 30dols. to
300dols. It is only natural that the exaggerated accounts
of such things as these should have attracted the attention
of thousands ; and the result is that nearly every river
has been raked, mill-ponds drained, and along the banks
of streams lie tons of the beautiful shells of these crea-
tures that have been ruthlessly sacrificed to this . passion,
Bithnt jt will be very many years for these to obtain a
footing in American waters again, and few pearls will of
necessity be produced.

dfemA oj? c^nfere^t.

The ten thousand clocks under pneumatic re-

Thausami gulation in Paris were brought to an unantici-

«'1«c8*k pated standstill on August 5th. It appears

the navvies on strike had left an excavation in

such a state that the sides gave way, and disarranged the

pneumatic tubes. At midnight the clocks were all set

going again.

* * *

Many employers of the electric light will be
W£*fmpTc gla(i to hear that Messrs. Woodhouse and

Rawson have brought out a new arc lamp, the
Midget, to fill a space in the enormous gap between the
gigantic unwieldy arc lamp as usually known and the
incandescent. This lamp is made to give 250-candle power,
using five amperes at an electro-motive force of 45 volts,
which is very economical compared with what has been done
before. It also has this remarkable advantage over other
arc lights — it is practically steady, and requires no skilled
attention.

* # . *

An invaluable paper has recently been read
tfvTc^sT'of before the Societe des Ingenieurs Civils by M.
jKiectric Haubtmann on this subject ; it states the
»s *• differences of cost of electric lighting in various
places arises from the amount of capital engaged and the
systems adopted. The cost per electric "horse-hour " in
various places is as follows : London 0.375 francs (three
times the cost of gas), in Paris it is 0-90 francs, at St. Brieuc
0-52 francs, and at Fribourg it is only 0-1 franc, if the
consumption is over 20 horse-power. Obviously with such
disparity in the cost of production as this, the subject is
but in its infancy ; ere long electric light will be cheaper
than gas everywhere.

Whatever may be the relative numerical
^vatches 'Strength of homoeopaths and allopaths in the

science of medicine, it is certain the homoeopaths
have in theory the best of it with magnetised watches, for
here we have a remarkable exemplication of "like cures
like," and as such it has been strongly advocated in
several electrical quarters to apply the cure, wherever the
ill exists. If your watch has become magnetised by being
in close proximity to a dynamo, say they, probably the
back case faced this modern fire belcher ; therefore, suspend
your watch with the face from you a short distance from
the machine, hold it in that position for a second or two,
and then move it slowly away, turning it round by means
of the chain until you have reached a safe distance, when
the watch will be found to be nearly right. The reason
of this is, that at first the works were magnetised from,
say, left to right, so that on bringing it with the other face
to the dynamo it is magnetised in the opposite direction,
Avhich about neutralises the former charge, and the few
turns given to the watch as it is moved away reduce the
magnetism to a minimum.

# * #

One of the simplest and best of this class of
-•■r ]*?w . things that have bsen brought out is of
clock. American origin. An ordinary small Ameri-
can timepiece has an extended barrel, or drum,
fixed to the winding square, around which is wound a strip
of paper marked off into hours, halves, and quarters,
which is made to pass over a rest ; a small spring punch
works in a guide through the slip upon pressure of the
watchman on duty, marking the exact time he passes. The
piercing stud can easily be attached to the latch of the
door, or similar fastening. The strips can be taken care of
for future reference if required.

,-)S

THE WATCHMAKER, JEWELLER AND SILVERSMITH. [September 1, 1891.

Tiik subjoined is going the round of the papers.

A Bfaman If true, it is certainly remarkable both physio-

nVi°"r.~ logically and psychologically, the most so of

anything of the kind we ever heard. We once

knew a man who offered to wager that if aroused from sleep

at any hour in the night he would tell the time within five

minutes : —

J. D. Chevalley, a native of Switzerland, aged sixty-six,
has arrived at an astonishing degree of perfection in reckon-
ing time by an internal movement. In his youth he was
accustomed to pay great attention to the ringing of bells
and vibrations of pendulums, and by degrees he acquired
the power of initiating in himself a succession of intervals
exactly equal to those which the vibrations of sounds pro-
duced.

Being on board a steamboat on the Lake of Geneva,
July 14, 1882, he undertook to indicate to the crowd about
him the lapse of a quarter of an hour, or as many minutes
or seconds as anyone chose to name, and this during a
most diversified conversation with those standing by ; and
further to indicate, by the voice, the moment when the
hand passed over the quarter minutes or half minutes.
This he did without mistake, notwitstanding the exertions
of those about him to distract his attention, and clapped
his hand at the conclusion of the time fixed. His own
account of his curious faculty is thus given :— ' ' I have
acquired by imitation, labor, and patience, a movement
which neither thought nor labor, nor anything else can
stop. It is similar to that of a pendulum, which, at each
motion of going and returning, gives me the space of three
seconds, so that twenty of them make a minute, and these
I add to one another continually."

-5f- •ii' •*&?

"TV" TV" - "TV"

There is little in the way of swindling that the

^weffcra Westerns can teach the Easterns, but it appears

Civiiization.frorn the following that Pinter's frauds have

inspired the Indian. A Hyderabad paper says : —
" A deliberate swindle was committed in Secunderabad by a
Fakir who pretended to be an alchemist. This Fakir,
going to a Mahommedan in the Regimental Bazaar, asked
for alms. On the man offering him two dubs, the Fakir
receiving them told him that he would teach him the
science of alchemy, as he appeared to be a deserving man,
which he knew by looking at his face. The poor man,
believing all that was said, took the Fakir into his house
and offered him food. The Fakir then told him that he
(the Mahommedan) should get all the necessary things
ready by the next day, as he (the Fakir) was forbidden to
stay in one country for more than three days. When
questioned as to what things should be brought, he told
him that, as he should turn the copper into ash, which if
thrown in small quantity on a well-heated copper would
be converted into gold, an equal quantity of copper and
gold was first required for the production of that ash. The
man, believing all that was told, took a few jewels from
his wife to the value of about fifty rupees, and, melting
them into a mass, got them ready by the next day. On
the next day the Fakir, while covering both copper and
gold with cloth to be burned, stealthily removed the gold
and placed a stone in its place. After about ten minutes,
the Fakir, leaving behind all his clothes and telling the
man that he Avould return with the juice of a certain plant
to be poured on the metals and ordering the man to care-
fully watch the fire, bolted away with the gold. The man,
after waiting for about two hours, discovered the fraud."
* * *

A magnificent tower is to be erected in Preston
a Towrr Park, Brighton, of red brick and buff terra-
0,J»ark.° cotta, 65ft. high, with 18ft. 6in. base, to carry

a tower clock. The whole of which will cost
probably £1,500 is the munificent gift of Mr. Edward White,
of Lincoln Lodge, London Road, Brighton.

(iffiL&frafeiL ^rveenFiortA S^ecoriL

APPLICATIONS FOR PATENTS.

Expressly compiled and contributed for this Journal by Messrs, W. P. Thompson and
Co., FKC.S.y MM.T.M.E., Patent Agents, 6, Bank Street, Manchester; 6, Lord Street*
Liverpool; and 323, High Holborn, Londo >, W.G.

11,427.-

11,954.-

12,048.-

12,446.-

10,603.-
10,605.-
10,859.-
11,221.-
11,409.-

11,390.-

11,718.-
11,903.-

12,710.

13,057,

-J. Walker and J. Hampshire, Dewsbury, " Solitaires

and studs for shirts, collars, &c." 6th July, 1891.
-C. Kleyer and E. Eock, London, " Fasteners for

bracelets, &c." 14th July, 1891.
-G. A. Cartwright and F. D. Storey, London.

" Fastening for brooches, &c." 15th July, 1891.
-C. Loom, Birmingham, " Fastener for sleeve links,

&c." 22nd July, 1891.

-J. Thornelow, London, " Solitaires for cuffs.'
-F. W. Jones, London, " Sleeve links."
-M. A. Tighe, London, " Sleeve links."
-T. Elcoate, London, "Brooches." 1st July, 1891..
-J. B. Scoltock, London, "Watch keys, &c." 4th July,

1891.
-G. V. Pinfold and A. G." Pinfold, London, "Wedding

rings." 4th July, 1891.
— W. S. Bandall, London, " Sleeve links."
-S. Hill, Birmingham, " Buttons, solitaires, &c." ' 14th

July, 1891,
— W. Tremlett, London, " Clasps for bracelets, &c."

27th July, 1891.
-J. H. Fox, London, "Brooches." 1st August, 1891.

Jeweler's Clamp. — Abeam L. Scuddee, Deposit, N. Y.

In a jeweler's clamp, the combination, with the base
bar 3, made in a single piece, of the clamp 1, rigidly
secured on one end thereof, and of the clamp 2, adapted to
be slid on the bar and be secured at any desired position
along the length, thereof by means of a binding screw, as

described, these clamps being each formed of a fixed jaw
and a detachable jaw held together by a nut and threaded
arm in such a manner as to permit of the adjustment of
the jaws to and from each other and to permit of the turn-
ing of the detachable jaw.

Button. — Feank E. Williams, New York, N. Y., assignor
of one-half to Horton, Angell and Co., Attleboro, Mass.

The combination, with the button or stud head, of the
curved arm B, secured thereto and provided with a shoulder,
f, and the bent arm C, mounted to slide on the arm B and
having a bifurcated portion c , which surrounds said arm,
that portion of the arm B between its upper end and the
shoulder / being thinner than the arm below said point,
whereby a locking shoulder is formed, and the said locking
shoulder being located as described, so that the lower end
of the portion c of the arm C will engage said shoulder when
the arm C is in a closed position and lock it there'. ' ''''I1

September 1, 1891.]

THE WATCHMAKER, JEWELLER AND SILVERSMITH.

|[)ings ||eW and flbbetf/ortfjy,

J^EW " pYE Gl-ASS ". ^OLDER

A new and effective idea is to have the eye-glass sus-
pended from a hair-pin, which can be either gold or gems.
It is said to be most comfortable in wearing, and is very
effective in appearance ; our illustration shows one attached
to a diamond mounted hair-pin. It will be observed that
the pin goes through the hair and passes through a ring at
the end of the chain, so that it is impossible for it to
pull out.

^ilver Goods Increasing.

The number of articles made in silver is still on the
increase ; Chasing, Repoussee, Old Dutch, and Queen Anne,
are each resorted to, to add further variation to the
numerous articles that are now being made. An article
that is selling well with those who make it, is a silver
shaving pot and brush ; the same may be said of silver-
mounted razor strops. As ladies so often remark, there are
thousands of things to give a lady, but so few to give a
gentleman, so that any useful article for a gentleman is
sure to meet with a good sale. A silver watch box, satin-
lined, both for gents and ladies, is also selling very well.
Very elaborate, heavily silver-mounted purses are also
finding a good sale, and some very handsome things are
being produced in consequence.

The above illustration gives a specimen of the position
in which watches are now to be found. Thus placed they
are employed for the convenience of ladies doing their
shopping ; the mounts of the purse are sometimes gold,
and sometimes silver. The idea lends itself to an infinity
of variation.

Bankruptcy Record.

Butler, Edward, Alfred Street, Warstone Lane, Birmingham,
Warwick, and Yardley Road, Acock's Green, and Worcester,
Electro-plater. — Deed of Assignment for the benefit of
creditors. Trustee : Charles Wm. Cotterell, 41, Temple
Bow, Birmingham, with a committee of inspection. Dated
5th August, 1891. Filed 8th August, 1891. Unsecured
liabilities, £1,746 17s. lid. ; estimated net assets, £521 ;
creditors fully secured, £29. The following are scheduled
as creditors : —

£ s. d.
Birmingham 11 16 8
London 47 6 6
Birmingham 16 2 0
13 9 11
19 13 4
86 8 7
233 0 0
1,200 0 0
Stourbridge 11 10 7
Birmingham 15 4 5

Hall, J.,

Schnidler and Company

Anthony, J. W.,

Clemmens, John

Lingard and Hackwood

Flint, H., and Son

Birmingham and Midland Bank

Bandel, John

Bolton and Mills

King

Close, John Robert, 67, Marton Boad, Middle sb or ough, late 1
Bishopton Lane, Stockton-on-Tees, late Watchmaker and
Jeweler. The following creditors are scheduled in this
case : —

Bryan, Jesse ...

Stockton

Close, Wm.

South Stockton

Cohen, J., and Sons ...

... Birmingham

Minto, Wm

Stockton

Nud, J. A

... Birmingham

Richards, John ...

Manchester

Hettish, Gordon, 14, Magdalene Street, Exeter, Devonshire,
Watchmaker and Jeweler. — This debtor has filed a state-
ment of affairs showing unsecured liabilities £158 0s. Id.,
and net assets estimated at £86 12s. 5d., or a deficiency of
£71 7s. 8d. The following are scheduled as creditors: —

£ s. d.

Donegal 10 4 6

... Birmingham 10 8 3

Plymouth 13 0 0

Teignmouth 10 7 0

Birmingham 10 7 11

Barry, S. H.
Bach

Conitz ...
Cordwent
Dight, L.
Holmes . . .
Wolfe, W.
Wehrle ...

13 7 11

London 14 8 4

Baden 12 13 5

Fully Secured Creditor.

Peters ...

Exeter 14 18 0

Partly Secured Creditor.

Churchill, S Teignmouth 19 2 0

Preferential Creditors 12 16 6

Ninnes, James Jlenry, 20, Mount Pleasant, Tunbridge Wells,
Watchmaker and Jeweler. — Deed of Assignment lor benefit
of creditors. Trustee : George G. Poppleton, 26, Corporation
Street, Birmingham (C.A). Dated 6th August, 1891. Filed
12th August, 1891. Unsecured liabilities, £1,955 15s. 7d. ;
estimated net assets, £1,750 ; creditors fully secured, £112.
The following are scheduled as creditors : —

Willis and Company ...

Birmingham 241

Adkins, H., and Son ...

... ,,

225

Griffith, H., and Son

. ... ,)

Kirwan and Company

London

Reynolds, J. W.

Birmingham

Wilkinson, S., and Son

• ... ji

Weekes, R. W.

Tunbridge Wells

Bouldsbridge, E. ... .

London

Bank, J. M

Birmingham

Walker Bros. ...

... >»

Mark Willis and Son ....

Sheffield

'■)

THE WATCHMAKER, JEWELLER AND SILVERSMITH. [September 1, 1891.

Grimshaw and Baxter ...

Old Hall Porcelain Works, Limit

Smith, John, and Sons

Lester and Allen

Major, Manger, and Company

Minnes, A.

Tanner ...

Kin? and Sons...

Hawitz, D

BoytOn, Charles, and Son
Hngrenirij Hall, and Company
Harburg, Henry, and Company
Richard and Company
Birmingham and Midland Bank
London and County Banking Com-
pany

Ninnes, Benj. F.

Jackson, Philip

Walford, Miss ...

Tunbridge Wells Gas Company

Corporation of Tunbridge Wells

Edwardes, Matt.,

London
ed Hanley

London

Tunbridge Wells

London

Liverpool

Groomb ridge

London

Birmingham

Tunbridge Wells

Hythe

Tunbridge Wells

Tunbridge WeUs

38 2 9

15 15 0

48 6 7

15 19 3
10 10 6

118 15 0

10 0 0

16 4 9
10 12 3

10 16 5

13 4 0
15 13 0
26 14 0
25 1 6

37 0 0

432 3 3

123 0 0

35 0 0

14 5 0

11 14 0

17 16 9

Deeds of Arrangement.
Lindow, Joseph, 72, Highbury New Park, Canonbury, and
105, Hatton Garden, London, E.C. , Diamond Dealer.
List of Creditors :

London

Lindenbaum and Weil
Weigel, B

Messer, S

Wright and Hodgkiss...

Cos Brothers ...

Moppes, D.. L. Von, and Fils

Schiff, Madame V ... ,,

Bonsall, John, Pier Terrace, Lowestoft, Jeweler.

Birmingham-
Paris

£ s. d.

385 15 3

74 15 0

258 12 0

511 19 6

243 11 0

529 2 0

262 14 0

Troup, J., and Sons ...

Pecover, J.P

Thwaites and Reid
Seigele and Bennett ...
Greenwood and Sons ...
Haswell and Sons ...

Sharland ... ,

Hayden, B.D

Unite, G., and Sons ...
Cohstantine and Floyd

Fuller, S.K

Fraser, J.E

Deakin, J., and Sons

Dyer, Richard, 38, Cavendish Street,
Watch and Clockmaker.

London

d.
5
5
2

£ s.

372 11

47 1

19 7

16 19

53 16

10 18

65 14

55 12

10 0

41 0

135 0

15 4 11

44 10 8

Manchester, Jeweler,

Birmingham

>>
>)
Lowestoft

Sheffield

Aronsberg Bros.

Lyon, S.

Dyer, S. ... ..." ... .

Brash, Isaac ...

Patterson, J.
Rosenthal! and Son ...
Rains', Dr.
Bankers' Claims

Norcross, Frank, 58, Ashton New Road, Manchester, Watch-
maker and Jeweler.

• £ s. d.

Birmingham

60 5 10

266 14 2

Bridlington

434 6 10

Leeds

18 4 0

Manchester

18 3 11

»»

27 5 0

13 10 0

12 3 0

Loveridge Bros.
Haigh, Abraham
Patterson, James
Meyer, Samuel...

Birmingham
Manchester

£ s.
55 12
93 10
40 ' 0
26 7

Moosmann, Paul, 245, Long Lane, Bermondsey, London, S.E.,
Watchmaker and Jeweler.

Abraham, S., and Sons

Blanckensee and Sons, Limited

Baunn, —

Conway and Company

Collins, Maurice

Davenport, A. J., and Company

Gollancy, A. ...

Johnson, G. W.

Kirschbann, —

Ling, E.

London

£ .

32 5

19 11

15 0

36 9

12 10
148 2

29 13 10

15 9 3

50 16 10
143 19 2

10
0
0
0
0
0

Light, E.

Little and Company

Mojon, Manger, and Company

Mayer, A., and Son

Schultis, Schwar, and Company

Unna, H. A

Weill and Company ...
Lehsmene, — ...
Lewis Brothers

2S 10 9

12 0 0

17 18 0

27 12 3

27 9 0
72 4 7

28 3 0
Badone 28 0 0

Birmingham 90 0 10

Hant, Robert, 26, Saltaire Road, Shipley, Jeweler.

Cohen, J., and Son

Crosbee, A. W., and Company

Holmes, William J

Wallis, G. and F. E

Cuttle, Holt, and Company ...
Makin, George...
Rutherford, J. J.

Birmingham 104 13 4

148 11 1

68 6 5

21 10 0

12 4

Leeds 15 2

Manchester 308 6
Shipley

Dividends.

Gardner, William Henry Buckby, 5, Russell Terrace, Old
Allesley Road, Coventry, Watch Manufacturer. First and
final dividend of 7s. lid. at Official Receiver's, Coventry,
July 31st.

Bartle, George, Scunthorpe, Watchmaker. First and final
dividend of 2s. 6d. at Official Receiver's, Hull, August 8th.

Bills of Sale.

Webling, Robert James, 6, Wellington Terrace, Bayswater
Road, W., Jeweler and Silversmith. In favour of Ethel
Webling. Dated July 28th, and filed August 3rd. £87 5s.
of plant, fixtures, &c.

Sherwin, Julius Henry (and wife\ 3, Bank Buildings, Crouch
Hill, Islington, N., Watchmaker and Jeweler. In favour of
Charles G. Lodge. Dated July 27th, and filed July 27th.
£85.

Winding up of Public Companies.

The Johannesburg Land and Gold Trust Company,
57, Moorgate Street, London, E.C.

Limited,

Abrahams, Michael, and Sons

Cook, J. W. ....

Dixon, Charles...
Hosking, J. H....

London

£
35
15

38
25

d.
0
0
0
2

Hosking, J. H

The Silver Wolverine
London, E.C.

Preferential Creditor.

London 41

Limited, 145s Cannon

Kemp, Ford, and Company..

Pearse, W. E. " ..

Winter, Major

Gilbert, R

Gilbert, J.

Gilles and Lampshere
Hamilton Powder Company
Hasking, W. J.

Hodson, W

Lalonde Company

McLean, C. J....

Wells and Emmerson
Woodside Bros.

London

... ,,

Bishop's Lydeard

Marazion

... Port Arthur

£
10

100
41

206
44
10
24
42
40

■:■ m

.31
12

13 4

Street,

s. d.

10 0

9 0

13 4
0 0
2 3

14 9
14 11

8 11
2 3

8 10

9 11
13 7
19 10

Meeting of Creditors.

Lazarus Teplitzky and Jacob Shapera, Jewelers, Glasgow,
were examined in bankruptcy, in the County Buildings, before
Sheriff Guthrie. There were also present Mr. John Miller, C.A.,
trustee ; Mr. Daniel Hill, of Messrs. D. and J. Hill, writers,
agent in the sequestration ; and Mr. Wm. Kidd, writer, for the
bankrupts. Mr. Teplitzky produced a state of affairs, showing
liabilities £1,454 9s. 9d. and assets £80 6s. 9d. He said he
commenced business four years ago with a capital of £20. He
assumed Mr. Shapera as a partner eighteen months ago, and he
had a capital of £550, represented by book debts and stock.
Owing to the furnacemen's strike the miners had to come out
also, and the firm could not get payment from either. That
was "the only reason he had to give for the deficiency. . The
examination closed.

September 1, 1891.] THE WATCHMAKER, JEWELLER AND SILVERSMITH.

An adjourned private meeting of the creditors of John Edward
Wihnot, trading as E. D. Wihnot and Son, Jewelers' Factors,
and as J. E. Wilrnot, Goldsmith and Silversmith, of Hylton
Street, Birmingham, and The Shrubberies, Alvechurch, was held
on August 20, at the Grand Hotel, Colmore Row. Mr. Walter
Best (president of the Birmingham Jewelers' Association) pre-
sided, and there was a large attendance of creditors. Mr. I.
Bradley represented the debtor. An amended statement of
affairs was presented by the committee of inspection appointed at
last meeting, which showed the liabilities to be £17,605 14s. Id.,
and the assets £10,706 4s. Id., leaving a deficiency of £6,899 10s.
A composition of 10s. in the pound, to be paid by instalments,
was suggested, but as the debtor was not able to offer full security
for the whole of the instalments, it was resolved to execute a,
deed of inspectorship to carry on the business, the committee in
the matter to consist of the same gentlemen as before with the
exception of Mr. Green, who declined to act ; Mr. H. Hyde was
chosen in his place. The committee now consists of Messrs.
W. Best, G. H. Johnstone, J. T. Pepper, and H. Hyde.

Be Samuel Bradley.' — In the Birmingham Court of Bank-
ruptcy, August 20th, Mr. Registrar Parry made a receiving order
in the matter of Samuel Bradley (trading as Samuel Bradley and
Co.), residing at 23, Park Avenue, Handsworth, and carrying on
business at 27, Frederick Street, Birmingham. Mr. Arthur G.
Colbeck, of 128, Colmore Row, is solicitor in the proceedings.

LETTERS TO THE EDITOR.

To the Editor of The Watchmaker, Jeweller and
Silversmith.

Sir, — The Horological Institute, in publishing the list of
successful candidates at the last "exam.," points out its
own students, among which is the prize man in the
Honors Grade.

This same student has obtained the silver medal in the
Ordinary Grade, and also already a first-class in the
honors in connection with the Polytechnic.

Under these conditions his course is somewhat unusual,
and is likely to convey the impression that it is due to a
belief in superior instruction.

To dispel doubt on this point I " interviewed "_ Mr.
Ludwig by letter, and now would beg of you to permit me
to quote that part of his letter which directly replies to this.

"... Not that I anticipated that the knowledge or
information to be obtained would be of a superior order.
On the contrary, I have strongly recommended several of
my workshop acquaintances to become members of your
classes, a recommendation which I can emphasise from
personal experience. . . ." — I am, Sir, your obedient
servant, I. Herrmann.

THE REVIVAL OF HERALDRY.

To the Editor of The Watchmaker, Jeweller and
Silversmith.

Sib, — The communication from your correspondent, Mr.
James W. Jenkins, on the above subject, in the last
monthly number of your valued publication is both in-
teresting and opportune, especially at a time when so much
is said and written on the extension of technical
instruction in all branches and departments of our
various national trades, manufactures, and industries, and
I have every confidence in predicting that Mr. Jenkins's
seasonable contribution to the controversy will tend very
considerably to encourage the already reviving art, around
which cluster so many bright and ennobling associations of
history, chivalry, the pomp of martial prowess, and the
gallant deeds of the mighty dead,

"Whose swords have long since turned to rust.
But their souls are with the saints, we trust.

There are already indications that in this, as in other
walks of literary, artistic, and scientific enterprise, the
last decade of the fast-waning 19th century will witness
a Bena limner that in its results on belles-lettres, as well

as on commerce itself, will be as beneficial 'as its 'pre-
cursor of the 16th century, which heralded to a benighted
Europe an era of enlightenment, mental emancipa-
tion, and universal progress, the fruits of which the
civilised world of to-day so abundantly enjoy. It is,
indeed, a matter of surprise that in this age of general
culture Heraldry has been so much neglected, and this
wonder is increased when we bear in mind that the study
of Heraldry, in all its diversified quaint meanings and
allusions, its mottoes and crests, its fanciful and very often
outre and far-fetched legends, curious, but suggestive symbols,
and in a word its peculiar terminology — strange and mystic
to the uninitiated — cannot be pursued for any lengthened
period without opening up new, enlightened, and broadened
views upon many important topics, and casting light upon
dark, intricate, and obscure passages and places in the
manners, habits, customs, and ways of remote epochs and
of generations long since mouldered into their kindred dust.
We are told by Sir Bernard Burke, the Ulster King at
Arms, and admittedly the first and most distinguished
authority in a field of knowledge that for close upon half a
century he has made peculiarly his own, that the mere
process of ascertaining the significance and symbolism of
titles, devices, armorial bearings, orders, and offices of pre-
cedence, emblems, ceremonials, etc., is per se a healthy and
invigorating intellectual exercise, leading the mind back
through many of the most momentous, romantic, and
stirring epochs in the annals of nations. He reminds us
how Sir Walter Scott, an expert in everything appertaining
to the usages and customs of the past, in that most delight-
ful and touching of his poems, " The Lay of the Last
Minstrel," depicts the untutored and unlettered William of
Deloraine as versed in armorial lore, and able to decipher
the crane on Baron Cranstoun's crest. The moss-trooping
Knight of Branksome's Hawthorn Green, who

Be it scroll, or be it book,

Into it he ne'er did look ;

For letter or line knew he never a one,

could read the sculptured scrolls on Melrose Abbey, and
the meaning of the arms, banners, and knightly and
ancient Scottish escutcheons, with which the walls and
scored shrines of the venerable fane were emblazoned. It
was, as every reader of Cervantes, the immortal author of
the knight of the rueful countenance, the chivalrous and
painfully punctilious Don Quixote, and bis faithful squire
Sancho Panza, will know, insisted upon at far-famed Sala-
manca— Spain's chief seat of learning, and the foremost
university of the medieval period of European history —
that Heraldry should form an important portion of the
curriculum, and, indeed, for that matter, of the prescribed
studies of the Alma Matres of other countries of Christen-
dom in what has not been inaptly described as "the dark
ages." In many of the Continental lyceums, more particu-
larly in the schools and academies conducted by the
Dominican, and like religious orders in France, Bavaria,
and other Catholic countries, it is still enrolled amongst
the regular class subjects of study, being considered by not
a few educational experts to constitute an elegant and in-
teresting branch of investigation, and through its close
connection with history an education in itself. The
indifference, or it would perhaps be more correct to say,
the utter neglect into which such an important and useful
study has been allowed to lapse of late years in England
may be ascribed to several causes, not the least potent
among which may be reckoned the demand for cheap, and,
in too many instances, badly-executed work, its inferiority
being a natural consequence of its low price and the
necessarily lowered wage paid to the artificer. There can
scarcely be a second opinion amongst those who have
followed the current of modern educational efforts as
affecting and controlling various departments of handicraft,
that sufficient stress has not been given to the intimate
relations subsisting between ordinary schooling and subse-

THE WATCHMAKER, JEWELLER AND SILVERSMITH. [Septembee 1, 1891.

quent skill in manual labor; or, as a well-known and
sympathetic writer on the subject, Mr. John Raskin,
admirably puts it : "the school should be the workshop, and
vice versd, for both are means to one great end — the making
of an accomplished and efficient hand-worker, no matter
what the art, labor, or craft, to which the boy
may hereafter devote his energies." I fear it is sadly too
true that comparatively scant attention has been paid by
many of the workers in the trades, of which your influential
paper is at once the organ, exponent, and fearless cham-
pion, to the culture of the delightful and entertaining study
of which this letter treats. The engraver has overlooked
the great impetus to his success derivable from a more
intimate acquaintance with the Heraldic Art. Apart, how-
ever, from this consideration of the question, taken purely
from the working man's view and standpoint, it must not
be forgotten that the fees demanded by the officials at the
Heralds' College from the Earl Marshal of England, his
grace the Duke of Norfolk, down to the lowest subordinate
in the institution, are somewhat prohibitory. The charges
made for the granting of fresh patents for arms and their
maintenance are so high that, like the late Dr. Magee
when he was promoted to the archiepiscopal dignity of the
see of York, most aspirants for Heraldic honors will be
inclined to repeat his Grace's episcopal formula (a little
varied) — "No lo armiyeri." The consequence is that it is
only the exceptionally opulent classes who are and will be
ambitious of securing a place amongst the patres nobilitati
of the land, and of patronising the labors of the engraver
whose toil, like that of his predecessor in the days of
Michael Angelo, " was spent amid dragons, bears, em-
bossed shields, and burning fields of gold and argent."
How different in this respect are our brethren in the
United States of America ; and much as our friends
Jonathan and Sam Slick may declaim about equality,
" Republican institootions " and the universal brotherhood
of man, they dearly love a lord, and not even the
descendant of the successful railway contractor, Lord De
Brassey, could be more anxious in tracing his lineage to
some " Baron bold who crossed the foamy billows with
Duke William of thrice-famed Normandee." An amusing
instance of this craving for ancestral honors was
afforded a short time ago, when the manor house
and small estate of Sulgrave, in Northamptonshire, and
not far from Banbury in Oxfordshire, was offered for
public sale in the City of London Auction Mart in
Tokenhouse Yard. Sulgrave was in the usual glowingly
bombastic catalogues of the auctioneers described as the
natal home of the progenitors of George Washington,
the pater patrice, whose name is reverenced with the
same filial piety by every true-born citizen of the States
as the Mohammedan pays to the Prophet of Mecca. A
Yankee syndicate was formed, and for a goodly sum the
College of Heralds and Sir Bernard Burke were able to
furnish Washington with a decent pedigree, dating back to
a Norman knight, «Sir William de Sulgrave Washington,
who flourished seven hundred years ago, and first
owned the ancient Manor of Sulgrave. But such pride
"in their forebears, " as a Scotchman would say, is pardon-
able to the countrymen of George Washington, and ought
certainly to have a healthy stimulus on the natives of the
old island home in whose former glory both Yank and
Britisher equally rejoice.

I entirely concur with Mr. Jenkins in his observations
on the appropriateness of Heraldry to artistic decorations
of gold and silver articles ; but I am afraid that the
number of " people " able to trace at a glance the history
and pedigree attaching to noble and ancient families by
means of heraldic designs is an insignificant minority. I
have had painful but convincing experience of this fact on
pilgrimages made to many of oar most famous cathedrals,
whose visitors are few indeed that can distinguish between
one coat of arms and another, or take the trouble of acquir-

ing the requisite knowledge for appreciating the art
treasures with which so many of these venerable
piles and gems of ecclesiastical architecture are so
richly dowered by the piety and munificence of our
ancestors in the long-past " ages of faith." As a case
illustrative of this I may mention that a short time
ago I visited Christ Church, where the verger's Ciceronian
explanations and verbal descriptions of the various armorial
bearings and devices on the several tombs excited but little
interest from the many sightseers, whose intense admira-
tion found voice and utterance in the monosyllabic " Ah."
The origin of Heraldry has been variously ascribed to
Phoenician, Assyrian, Roman, Moorish, and mediaeval
times ; but according to Sir Bernard Burke the form et orirjo
of this ' ' scion of the chivalrous days of yore ' ' was inti-
mately connected with the inroads of the soldiers of the
Cross into Paynim lands. The origin of Heraldry and of
the use of family arms and mottoes, which form a prominent
feature in European systems of "honors," has, says
another distinguished writer on archaeology and kindred
subjects, been ascribed, with much appearance of truth, to
the necessity of leaders in battle bearing some device or
mark by which their followers could constantly recognise
them. These are beyond doubt of very remote origin — as
remote and ancient, probably, or nearly so, as the existence
of war itself, though it was not until towards the later
period of the middle ages (Burke is inclined to think the
days of Edward III.) that Heraldry was moulded into a
science, a designation that all must agree it is deservedly
entitled to. To the Crusaders, however, and to the foster-
ing patronage of Pope Urban and subsequent occupants of
the Pontifical See of Rome, Heraldry owes the prominent
place it held in history and the social economy of Christian
Europe.

Although threatened many times with total extinction,
like the Knights Templars and other old Roman Catholic
fraternities who mainly founded it, Heraldry, sharing the
fate of all true art, has survived, and I trust it may be long
ere it lapses into a dormant state again. For as our
Shakespeare says in his " Measure for Measure " —
It deserves, with characters of brass,
A forted residence 'gainst the tooth of time,
And razure of oblivion.

I am, &c,

Arthur W. Cooper.
Mitchell and Cooper,

58, Great Sutton Street, Clerkenwell.

ANSWERS TO CORRESPONDENTS.

A. W. Pridham. — The dichroscope is invaluable to any-
one wishing to test doubtful gems, especially cut gems,
where other kinds of testing is sometimes hardly possible.
Of course it requires understanding to be able to use it.
You probably understand that on looking through the
dichroscope, owing to the double refraction of the prism, the
aperture becomes double, i.e., instead of one square one sees
two. If, now, a red stone be placed over the aperture
and turned round, if it be a spinel, both squares will
remain the same color. If, however, the stone be a ruby
the two squares no longer remain one color in any posi-
tion, but become two colors, hence a ruby and other
stones, not crystallizing in the Monometric System are said
to be dichroic, whilst those which crystallize in that system,
and only show one color, are said to be monochroic. The
best place to get the instrument is Messrs. How and Co.,
73, Farringdon Street, E.G. I should advise you to get
one with the improvements for holding focussing, etc., as
demised by myself. It will only cost about ten shillings more,
and you are quite welcome to them ; the instrument would
probably cost complete (trade) 27s. 6d. I shall devote a good
space to dichroscopy when the crystallographic series of
articles is done, vide August, 1890, number.

{JJatcl^akcr, ^c^clcr

J4&

^il^crsii^itfy

Edited by W. J. LEWIS ABBOTT, F.G.S.

Entered at Stationers' Hall.]

{Registered for Transmission Abroad,

Vol. XVII.— No. 4.]

OCTOBER 1, 1891.

Subscription, 5a. 1 Post

per Annum. I Free.

Single Copies, 6d.

S^eftate of ffie jpfate ©ufy.

HEN the Chancellor of the Exchequer set
aside his £120,000 for drawback of duty
upon the plate held by the manufacturers
and dealers, it was strongly argued that
this would be quite inadequate. The
thoughts of the immense amount paid upon wedding rings
and other articles of " gold plate," in addition to the
hundreds of thousands of ounces of silver that had been in-
creasing to the nation's stock, seemed to preclude such an
idea. Accordingly, we find him saying in the House that
he only proposed to set aside £120,000, and pay off as far
as it would go. This £120,000 was, of course, based upon
estimates which amounted to rather under that sum ; but
when the thing comes to be settled we find that the claims
established amount in all to only £94,250, thus leaving a
surplus of £25,750. However little favor one shewed to
the repeal of duty, when it came to be paid most people
were glad to receive it, and write down their stock accord-
ingly, and were ultimately highly satisfied ; indeed, there
was little reason for them to be otherwise. The people
who had cause to be dissatisfied were those who held large
quantities of " gold plate," principally in the form of wedding
rings. Now, we have made a rough estimate of the pro-
portion which the value of wedding rings bears to that of
silver plate from the first sixty odd houses we passed, and
we were surprised at the results ; for it must be borne in
mind that the duty on one ounce of gold practically equals
that on twelve ounces of silver, and we were informed that
several stocks contained between three and four hundred
ounces of wedding rings, the equivalent of, say 4,000
ounces of silver. Now, although we know there were
several houses who could muster up 10,000 ounces, we
can cpunt up all the houses which are likely to exceed
4,000, each of which are special silver houses. But
then comes the question of the ordinary average
jeweler throughout the country. Not only do we find the
duty on " gold plate " in their stocks running closely up
to the silver duty, but frequently it is positively more. It
mi°ht be argued that jewelers disregarded the abolition of
the duty, and attempted to sell out their old stock at then-

usual rate of profit upon cost price ; but it must not be
forgotten that many people "cut" wedding rings, and
those who make them a speciality are the ones who
have the greatest opposition from their " neigh-
bours," so that it would be practically impossible to
reduce weddings a pound an ounce without at least selling
without a profit, and such cases would represent the
largest stocks in the trade. A little consideration of the case
will immediately suggest the question why one part of the
jewelers' stocks should be compensated for a duty which often
represented only 12 per cent, of its value — and sometimes
much less even than that — while another part of it suffer-
ing from a duty of over 20 per cent, should not be similarly
compensated. Judging, however, from the Chancellor's
speech, we should think that the reason gold plate was
excluded was that he was afraid the £120,000 which he
was willing to expend would not go far enough to cover
the whole field. But seeing now that the whole of
the silver claims have been satisfied, and that there is
yet remaining over a quarter of the amount that has been
expended, it is only reasonable to advocate that that sum
should now be expended in allowing the drawback upon
" gold plate." This, of course, is a matter for the trade
to take up, and that at once ; someone will have to take
the initiative in the matter. Unfortunately we are so
unorganised that it will mean work for someone. If we
only had an Association to take up matters as they crop
up the interests of the trade could be protected, and the
maximum benefit secured of things which often turn out
an injustice and incubus to the trade.

T^fc^HY are not bicycles made in Sheffield ? Now that
-jcV* the use of these machines has become all but
universal, the question is being put with pained
surprise. The whole of the material of which they are
composed is manufactured here, and the first great im-
provement on the old bone-shaker was brought out by
Beck and Candlish — a Sheffield firm. Nevertheless, we
have allowed the trade to gravitate to other places.
Perhaps we have been busy with what were considered
more important matters, and so allowed the making of
bicycles on a large scale to slip through our fingers. As
things have turned out we now see that we have made a
mistake, and that we have lost what would have been no
inconsiderable addition to our staple industries,

6-1

THE WATCHMAKER, JEWELER AND SILVERSMITH.

[October 1, 1891.

flotes /Ibout Jo\jj\). Qoaptry flot^.

It is not altogether an easy matter to gauge the

Tra'i' rea^ s^e °f trade during the past month.

Many say they have had some very good days,

and that on the whole they must not grumble, while others

do not appear to speak with such satisfaction.

* * *

Christmas novelties have not yet made their
novelties, appearance amongst retailers. Rising suns

have increased in size, so much so as to be
sometimes inverted, and worn over the chest from the throat,
where the centre large stone or cluster takes the place of a
brooch, the limbs or rays passing downwards and outwards
in all directions. A Bond Street firm has also added a
patent for converting into epaulettes the diamond orna-
ments whose office was previously confined to brooch and
head ornament.

* a #

There is nothing particularly new just at pre-
ra«hious. sent, but rather developments upon old lines.

Swallows are still worn, in perhaps larger sizes
and more graceful and fantastic poses. Herons and pea-
cocks are also great favorites. But on the whole butter-
flies and other insects claim more attention than tha avi-
fauna. Both of these lend themselves to the utilisation of
colored stones, which still being very fashionable command
a greater sale. "Eyed" butterflies especially are well
to the front, with colored stones in the eyes. Of course
they lend themselves to slight conventionalising, or the
manufacture of new species from the artist's own fancy ;
still, the effect of some is very fine and imposing. Beetles
and spiders of large proportions still retain their hold, and
new ones appear and others disappear from many West-
end stocks, by which we infer they are selling.

* # #

• Long sprays, both ivy and other simple forms
Sprays, of leaves, and elaborate orchids are on the
increase, most of them being made detachable
and transposable, epaulettes being included.
# * *

The Navalries has suggested a few new things.
jewelry ' ' The Victory ' ' is mounted as a gold charm ;
and several old historic swords have been re-
produced as brooches "From the Royal Naval Exhibition."

^ ^ w

Bi«mo * t ^E are P^ease^ to see that the Khedive of
often Egypt has been pleased to confer the honor
obtained. 0£ receivmg fag Imperial Order of Osmanieh
upon Mr. George James Godwin, of the firm of Messrs.
Godwin and Son, High Holborn, as an expression of
satisfaction and appreciation of the manner in which Mr.
Godwin has carried out the orders of His Highness during
the last two years.

A Company under the above title has been regis-

\\f\tvll- tered by Messrs. Jordan and Sons, 120,

<a"ev Chancery Lane, W.C., with a capital of £10,000,

iii"Vii!s in £1 shares. Objects : To establish and carry

coiiiitauy, on ^g Dusfness of manufacturers of watch-

JjI III 1 14*41. , ' . ,

cases of every kind, by machinery or otherwise,
at Birmingham or elsewhere, in accordance with an agree-
ment made August 1 7th, between John Ashwin and Philip
Hy. Laurence of the one part, and C. H. Kingstone, on behalf
of the company, of the other part. There shall not be
less than two nor more than five directors. The first shall
be F. F. Reading and L. E. Neale. Qualification, fifty
shares. Remuneration to be determined by the company
in general meeting.

j^[OST of the Coventry watchmakers are reported as
exceptionally busy, many of them having good
orders on hand.

^E are somewhat surprised, and still more sorry to
see the half-hearted manner in which the shares
were taken up for the proposed Watch-Case Manu-
facturing Company. After all, founding and working a good
business is altogether a different thing from forming a
company. It is not the genuineness of a concern that
insures floatation, but the way it is managed and advertised.
We recently knew of the case of a large concern having
outgrown the owners, which was making extraordinary
profits. They therefore thought they would turn it into
a company. Being such a sound affair they thought
their own solicitors could manage the whole thing, and
that advertisement was quite uncalled for, but it proved
a miserable failure !

VT7HINGS are .looking a little brighter at Prescot just
^J® now in the watch line, otherwise they have not
been so busy during the last six weeks.

\|/HE Horological classes a>t the Coventry Technical
£il® Institute commenced their winter sessions on
Monday 14th ult.

\|/HE Coventry and Midland Photographic Society
^J® enjoyed a delightful and successful excursion on the
5th ult.

VT7HE contest of the English Watch Cycling Club took
41® place on the 5th ult. on fifteen miles of road between
Birmingham and Coventry. J. Cadden was first ;
A. Mazey second ; Watkins third ; and A. Reeves, scratch,
fourth. ;

E are glad to see the names of members of the trade
figure amongst those interested in advocating the
University Extension.

(j^T NEW industry is likely to spring up for Prescot, by
pi. the development of the newly-formed " Prescot Cycle
Company, Limited," which has a capital of £10,500.
It appears the public believe more in making cycles than
watches.

\|/HE new wing of the Lancashire Watch Company is
•^Ji9 approaching completion, which is the sort of thing
we like to chronicle. At the late special meeting of the
company Mr. W. D. Houghton, of Warrington, was appointed
chairman, in the place of the late Mr. S. H. Hartley.

(i?T WELL attended dinner of the Coventry Watch Jewel
Jlx. Makers' Co-operative Society was held at the Watch-
makers' Arms, Councillor Dodwell presiding, who
gave an excellent speech upon co-operation ; the benefits
of which were further dilated upon by the vice-chairman,
Mr. J. Hinton, and the secretary, Mr. Lee.

, CCORDING to many accounts the McKinley tariff is
not annihilating trade with the United States alto-
gether, as there are several really good orders now
on hand for America. The settlement of affairs in South
America is beginning to tell, and important indents have
been already received. Orders from Australia are fairly
numerous, and better hopes may be held out for N. S.
Wales than was expected a short time ago, as they have
again decided in favor of free trade.

October 1, 1891.]

THE WATCHMAKER, JEWELER AND SILVERSMITH.

(By our own Correspondent.)*

fT last we are glad to be able to report that the " dull
period " that has lasted so long is rapidly passing
away, and that things are once more resuming a very
lively aspect. The home trade is especially good, but so
much cannot be said for the export. Of course there is
ample time yet for a good season trade to be done with the
Colonies, but most firms have learned to expect to be busy
in that department ere this. We do not gather that any
special branch can be said to call for particular attention,
but the general impression is that all branches of the trade
are sharing in what we may now confidently consider to be
the permanent improvement.

GTETTING off the above, we find that the old-established
iJ and well-known firm of gilt jewelry manufacturers,
Messrs. C. Timings and Son, of Birmingham, have
just put on the market a new chain which they
make in a variety of patterns — such as Newgate fetters,
Prince of Wales, the favorite graduated gold curb, etc. —
from seamless rolled gold plate. This new invention of
metal is, we understand, an American idea, and on ex-
amination we are bound to admit its superiority over all
other kinds of rolled gold plate. The articles manufactured
from it, for beauty of finish and durability of wear, stand
unquestionably without an equal. Every practical jeweler
knows that the great blemish in all rolled plate or filled
jewelry hitherto made has been the objectionable seam
around the ring or the links of the chain. Many devices
have been adopted to hide this seam, such as burnishing,
blending the seam with gold solder (which, of necessity,
must be of a lighter color than the gold itself), or covering
the seam, when placed on the inside, with an extra sur-
face or lining, thereby only making matters worse by
exposing two seams. Whatever plan has been resorted
to, the seam still remains, showing itself sooner or later by
wear, by contact, or any other one of the dozen causes
that brings out the tell-tale defect. During the last
century ever since the introduction of jewelry of this class,
inventive minds have been at work to produce a compound
wire that would be seamless and solid ; a wire that would
produce articles to rank with the solid gold or silver ones,
and yet be sold at the prices of the old-fashioned seamed
plate goods. After years of experiments this object has
at length been attained, and Messrs. C. Timings and Son
are to be congratulated upon having introduced into the
market what is now causing a great sensation in American
jewelry circles, the wire being largely used by the leading
chain, ring, and bracelet manufacturers of the United
States.

'R. F. BRUETON, of 2, Northampton Street, has
registered a new ring-case, and it seems to have
become very popular. The idea is certainly a good
one, and finds much favor amongst travellers, inasmuch
as it enables them to display the rings with ease and
to advantage. The case is made to hold twelve rings, and
serves its purpose well in window-dressing.

fN our last issue we gave the address to which Mr. J. H.
Starling had removed as No. 8, Augusta Street. He
wishes us to state the number is " 7 " in that street.
He has gone largely into the manufacture of best brooch
tongs, and is devoting a large portion of his establishment
to that purpose. We are given to understand that some

* We must not be considered as endorsing all, or necessarily an}',
of the statements of our correspondent, who writes on his own
responsibility.

of the best brooch tongs made are turned out by him ;
there is always a good stock kept in hand, so that orders
may be executed at the moment. This new branch does
not interfere in any degree with the artistic work he has
the reputation for, and is yet continued in the same style
under greatly increased facility.

fSHBURTON borough is presided over by a portreeve,
a honorary office of great antiquity, and of which the
inhabitants are very proud. The lords and past
portreeves of the borough have lately decided to present to
the town a chain of office to be worn by the portreeve for
the time being. Messrs. T. and J. Bragg, of Birmingham,
have been entrusted with the commission to manufacture
it from designs submitted by them. The chain and badge
will be a very elaborate piece of work, with various arms
enamelled on the principal links, giving it a very beautiful
effect. The badge is of good size, has a coronet border,
and is surmounted by a civic crown, Ashburton being a
royal manor of Queen Matilda. In the centre of the badge
is a charming enamelled antique blazon, whereon is dis-
played the arms of Ashburton — an ancient abbey church,
connected with the history of Bishop Stapleton, sun, moon,
cross of St. Andrew as the patron saint, and the teazle as
representing the woollen trade of Ashburton — in quaint
heraldic colors. Around this is the name " Aysheberton "
and the motto " Fides probata coronat " in gilt letters on
a crimson enamel ground. The centre link from which
the badge depends is occupied by a shield, bearing the
arms of the See of Exeter arid of Bishop Stapleton empaled,
surmounted by a mitre, and surrounded by the wreath of
teazles. The reverse of the badge is occupied by the fol-
lowing inscription : — " Presented by the Lords and Past
Portreeves to the Borough of Ashburton, 1891." The
links of the chain are of two patterns, one being of oblong
shape with semi-circular ends, while the sun, moon, and
St. Andrew's cross form the basis for ornament. The
other link' is the letter "A," being the initial of the
town. The name and date of office of the Portreeve by
whom the link is presented is engraved on the cross on
the oblong links. There are also two round shoulder links
bearing the arms of two lords of the manor — Lord Clinton
and Sir R. Jardine — in correct heraldic colors, that of Lord
Clinton having the coronet and crest over it, and Sir R.
Jardine's an open helmet en face. The chain and badge
are finished in the best style, and will form a very curious
and interesting compendium of the history of the place.

JT?)NOTHER very handsome gold chain of office is being
^5« made by Messrs. T. and J. Bragg for the ancient
borough of Okehampton, the commission being given
by J. D. Prickman, Esq., mayor, who has taken a great in-
terest in obtaining the first portion of what will be a very
elaborate civic decoration when complete. The badge takes
the form of an oval medallion, with the Royal border of
Maltese crosses and fleurs-de-lis, as upon the fillet of the
English crown, and having a mural coronet over it. The
centre of the badge is occupied by the arms of the borough
— the three towered castle of Okehampton — in correct
heraldic colors, while round it is the motto " Insigne
Burgi Ockmenton " in gold letters on an enamelled field.
On the reverse of this is the following inscription : — " Char-
ters granted a.d. 1272, 1291, 1623, and 1684. Created
Municipal borough 1885." The larger links are of shield
pattern, connected by other links, with alternating English
roses enamelled white and red. On the shield links will be
engraved the name and date of office of each successive
mayor. The centre link, from which the badge depends,
is a large Tudor rose, blazoned in enamel, and surmounted
by a Royal crown. The whole of this will be in gold Hall-
marked, and is arranged for other links to be added
year by year. It will worthily represent the borough at
the Mansion House gathering next month.

THE WATCHMAKER, JEWELER AND SILVERSMITH.

[October 1, 1891.

Sheffield ffotes. %

(By our own Correspondent.)

\[/HE installation of the Master-Cutler with its antique
®|fe ceremonial once more reminds us that the year is
advancing, and it is with something of a shock that
we realise that summer is nearly ended almost before we
wore aware that it had well begun. Nevertheless, business
men are not sorry to turn the corner of the Cutlers' Feast
and Doncaster Races, two events which have been long
understood to mark the dividing line between the dead
season and briskness of trade. The former has been equal
to any of its predecessors in point of effect. The display
of silver on the tables, consisting as it did of the choicest
exhibits of the various show-rooms of the town, demon-
strated very fairly the stage of artistic development to
which the silver trade of Sheffield has attained. Mr.
Belfitt, like his predecessors in office, would doubtless have
liked some statesman of the first rank to have graced his
banquet, but the season of the year at which the Cutlers'
Feast is held is unfavorable to this, and the usage of cen-
turies cannot be set aside even for the luxury of having a
guest on whose utterances expectant Europe waits.

(7T S for the races, everybody is certainly not expected to
/iiL go there, but everybody goes all the same. It is just
as well that people from a distance having business
to transact in Sheffield should understand this. This year
the carnival of the North has been favored with the most
glorious weather, and, as a consequence, the difficulty of
finding business men where one naturally expects to find
them — namely, in their offices — has been proportionately
greater. However, as incessant application to business
will now be the rule up to Christmas, one need not grudge
active workers the last opportunity for relaxation which
the season affords.

(7TS regards the execution of orders, the long-felt impa-
hL tience of manufacturers at the systematic neglect of
work on the part of their employees is beginning to
find a voice. Even well-conducted workmen seem to find
the attractions of a big cricket match irresistible. As
nearly every Monday and Tuesday during the season is
devoted to one of these, the interruption to business is
most serious. Facilities for the keeping of Saint Monday .
are increased by the almost universal custom of piecework
in the staple trades of the town. With the keen competi-
tion on • the part of foreign countries which we are now
encountering, this state of things cannot continue without
some amount of danger to our interests. Hence the atten-
tion which is now being given to the matter.

^|/HE feeling evoked by the death of the late Lieutenant
<2)Jfe "West is characteristic of Sheffield. Although occupy-
ing a position of great responsibility in one of the largest
electro-plate manufactories of the town, he was in no
sense a public man. His relation to the silver trade
was not technical, but was brought about' by the influence
of Col. Bingham, who is at the same time head of the
firm of "Walker and Hall and chief of the Sheffield
Engineers, of which regiment Lieutenant West was
originally drill-instructor. The healthy out-door tastes
of all classes of Sheffielders renders a man in Lieutenant
West's position, who may at the same time possess
popular social qualities, what the Americans would call a
" prominent citizen." This accounts for the semi-public
character of his funeral and the large amount of sympathy
evinced at his somewhat sudden and altogether unex-
pected death.

• We moat not be understood as endorsing all. or necessarily any, of the views of
our correspondent, who writes on his own responsibility.

T bas long been a kindly custom for the Master Cutler
to entertain his staff in the hall of the company
at the close of the week in which the great Feast is
held. Out of this has grown another custom, that of the
workmen presenting their employer with some tangible
token of their respect. This year Mr. Belfitt has in this
way been made the recipient of two genuine works of art.
The first, a plaque designed by Morel-Ladeuil, and executed
by Elkington and Co., it is made in repousse silver and
damascened steel, and represents the well-known trial scene
in "The Merchant of Venice," where Portia lays down the
law to the great discomfiture of Shylock. The second is a
massive cup of sterling silver, manufactured by Messrs.
Atkin Brothers, of Truro Works, Sheffield. The cup,
which is 18in. in height, is fluted in the lower portion, the
upper part being plain in order to bear the inscription.
The Mistress Cutler was also presented with a highly
artistic crescent-shaped diamond brooch with ornament to
match, all in fine brilliants.

\|/HE School of Art is still doing yeoman service as
sjjfe regards the staple trades of the town. The report of
the examiner in the National Competition this year
is most favorable. Special and flattering mention is made
of a design by Miss Amy Hobson for a coronet and bells for
the holy scroll of the law. The student is commended for
the elegance, lightness and simplicity of design, and also for
founding it on good Persian type, which is obviously
suitable for this kind of metal work. A silver medal is
also awarded to Mr. W. P. Belk, for a sheet of daggers and
sheaths, showing decided jewelers and goldsmiths' feeling
for daintiness and elegance of design. The prize list this
year has never been equalled in the history of the
Sheffield School of Art, and may be looked upon as the
result of the efforts recently put forth to render the school
worthy of its old reputation.

G70ME may consider it matter for regret that no medal
aEj has this year been awarded for any drawing in water- .
color or painting in oils. The fact is, however, that the
school is still developing the idea of its founders, namely,
the training of designers in the staple trades of the town.
How far it has been successful in this may be seen in the
show-rooms of our electro-plate manufactories, and in the
more graceful outlines of our products generally.

t@|NE hears old silversmiths talk of the times when a new
IIJ thing in teapots was produced by simply turning an
1 old one upside down. That was a very long time
ago, however, presumably before the days of Young Mitchell
and Godfrey Sykes. At the present day, although the
Sheffield School of Art produces no great painters, it has
in addition to improving the artistic excellence of our
manufactures permeated the community with a sense of
the beautiful.

G7T S was once remarked in these Notes there is not
ygj. much visible connection between silver chasing and
street paving. Mr. Ernest Hill, of 20, Charles
Street, however, thinks otherwise. Seeing him the other
day engaged in the somewhat incongruous occupation of
superintending the laying down of some wood pavement in
Bank Street, I could not resist the temptation of asking him
for an explanation. He affirmed that had he not been a chaser
the idea of the ' ' Carmaxill ' ' pavement would never have
occurred to him. Tbis somewhat outlandish name is made
up of an ingenious combination of the names of three of
the principle proprietors of the company which is working
the patent. As the highway committee have just given
an order for a certain length of street to be laid
with the new pavement, it is to be feared that Mr. Hill will
become reconciled to his having left the manipulation of
silver for that of wood and iron.

October 1, 1891.]

THE WATCHMAKER, JEWELER AND SILVERSMITH.

Ufte MarK°etx*>.

DIAMONDS.

Contrary to expectations in certain quarters, diamonds
have not fallen or altered in price very much. Indeed, in
the first part of the month there were more buyers than
diamonds, and it was suspected that a rise rather than a
fall would ensue. The splendid report of the De Beers'
meeting on the 24th ult. seems to point to their being
equal to any suspected emergency. What the influence of
the development of the Premier mine will be we cannot
say, but it seems too much to think the De Beers will be
able to hold out against all conditions that may arise, as our
diamond field's letter of this month shows the probability
of more diamonds coming in from other sources. There is
also some agitation for a diamond tax, although we do not
think for a moment it will be imposed.
SILVER.

During September, silver was pretty firm and constant
commencing the month at 45 1-16, which it maintained a
few days, then fell slightly ; but in a day or two an elevat-
ing tendency set in which it maintained to the middle of
the month, after which there was a slight downward ten-
dency with trivial fluctuations, and on going to press was
45i.

COPPER.
Copper has been quiet and steady throughout the month
opening at £52 12s. 6d. G. M. B., since which time there
has been a slight decline in prices.

TIN.
Tin has been quiet and steady during the early and
middle parts of the month, opening at £91 10s., which has
only suffered small alterations.

SPELTER
Spelter has. been very steady all through the month,
remaining practically at £23 15s.

LEAD.
Lead has been quiet during the whole of the month with
a slight decline, opening at £12 7s. 6d., it showing a steady
fall of a few shillings at a time.

QUICKSILVER.
Quicksilver has been somewhat dull, varying from
£7 5s. to £7 10s.

ss@

«A Jiiurgfar^/ (insurance f?or ffte UmiLe.

,,E print in this issue the prospectus of a new
Burglary Insurance company—" The Goldsmiths'
and General," now being formed chiefly in the
interests of the Jewelry, Pawnbroking, and kindred
Trades, _ to the members of which the shares are
offered in the first instance. Although burglary insurance
has been before the public for about only a couple of
years, it is now looked upon as a necessity — the feelino-
of relief and security afforded by a policy being deemed by
many of our readers as of far more importance than the
trifling subscription. A cursory glance at the history
of burglary insurance evinces the fact that this company
starts under most auspicious circumstances and conditions.
Granted that people have realised the necessity of
burglary insurance, and that many are now enjoying the
ease and freedom arising from knowing that they will be
indemnified against all losses of this kind, it follows that
an easy means of bringing the process to the hands of all
will ensure a great popularity for the principle. Of course,
the whole subject is only in its infancy, but the fortunate
part of it is that, so far as the new company is concerned, its
manager that been associated with the first company of the
kind from its inception. But as that company his
now amalgamated with another that is not giving the
attention to the branch of the business that immediately

affects our trade, he considers- — after having all the
experience connected with the other — that the interests of
jewelers and allied trades are sufficient to maintain an office
of their own. Managed by one who has special knowledge of
the trade, the company will be able to profit by all the
experience of the other company and start under most
favorable conditions.

An excellent working board has been secured, and the
management has been entrusted to Mr. J. M. Buchanan,
before alluded to. We have gone very fully into the matter
with this gentleman, and we think our readers may safely
subscribe for shares, as the investment appears likely to turn
out quite satisfactory. It will be noticed that a dividend of
8 per cent, per annum must be paid to the ordinary share-
holders before the deferred shareholders — who are
forming the company — participate, thus showing their
confidence in the future of the concern.

(Ueennieaf instruction at tne Sinrmingnan]
^ ecu efe rS' oKsSociafion.

fOT to be discouraged by the insinuating remarks often
dropped in certain quarters, the above laudable
Institute has issued its syllabus for the ensuing
session, and we should advise one of our contemporaries to
attend the classes for a few years. It would be of very great
service to them — firstly, in preventing ' them using their
scissors and paste over such worthless trash as they some-
times copy ; and secondly, it would teach them the value of
technical education, or at least what it really is.

Instruction will be given and examinations held in the
following subjects : — Elementary stage. The variety of
trades into which the manufacture of personal ornament
is divided : Modes of work, tools employed, engraving,
repousse, chasing cast figures, wire decoration, enamelling,
finish of goldsmiths' work, shaping and turning of geometric
forms as bases for decoration, getting out engraved patterns,
tracing and beating in embossing or repousse. The
honors stage will also include : — Alloys, stamped work,
models and casting, precious stones and setting. The
practical department further requires candidates to supply
a specimen of mounted, engraved, chased or repousse,
and enamelled work. We wish them the success they
deserve, while we congratulate the committee upon the
extensive syllabus.

THE VALUE OF ADVERTISING.
Recently, by a clerical error, for which we are very sorry,
we unfortunately left out the advertisement of one of our
clients, whereupon we received the following letter : "I
notice my advertisement has not appeared in this month's
issue. I feel extremely annoyed, inasmuch as it would have
brought me applications and business." We trust, however,
that he will accept our sincere apology. A short time ago
one of our principal advertisers wrote : "I have to thank
your valuable paper for the great increase my business has
received since I began advertising in it." With almost
every number we have evidence of orders coming through
advertisements. We hope shortly to bring out some highly
artistic advertisements, which cannot fail to command
attention and admiration, and thus secure increase of
trade.

— -X- '

Mr. Herrmann's Paper. — We regret that owing to an
accident in transit we are unable to continue Mr. Herr-
mann's valuable " Answers to Questions " in this number,
but we shall do so m the next.

A subscriber asks for the address of the "Jewelers'
Supply Company," as he requires a further supply of patent
watch tickets, No. 42,386. Perhaps some other reader can
inform him where he can get them.

THE WATCHMAKER, JEWELER AND SILVERSMITH.

[October 1, 1891.

Srifi&fc JY&,6o elation Meeting of

HERE are few years when so many items
of practical importance bearing upon our
united trades are brought forward at the
B. A. meetings as was the case Avith the
last. Paper after paper bristled with things
new and important at every point. As, how-
ever, it is impossible to reproduce them in
extenso, we shall select some extracts which
we think of great use and importance.
In the course of his presidential address, Professor Huggins
said : — " Stas, in a recent paper, gives the final results of
eleven years research on the chemical elements in a
state of purity, and on the possibility of decomposing
them by the physical and chemical forces at our
disposal. His experiments on calcium, strontium, lithium,
magnesium, silver, sodium, and thallium show that these
substances retain their individuality under all conditions,
and are unalterable by any forces that we can bring to
bear upon them." So that for the present we are safe
in regarding these as elements. Professor Rowland looks
to the solar lines shown in the spectrum, which are un-
accounted for, as a means of enabling him to discover such
new terrestrial elements as still lurk in rare minerals and
earths, by confronting their spectra directly with that of
the sun. He has already resolved yttrium spectroscopi-
cally into three components, and actually into two.

All the heavenly bodies are seen by us through the
tinted medium of our atmosphere. According to Langley
the solar stage of stars is not really yellow, but even
as gauged by our imperfect eyes, would appear bluish
white if we could free ourselves from the deceptive influ-
ences of our surroundings.

The success of photographs taken by Dr. Gill at the Cape
Observatory, and the Brothers Henry at Paris, astonished,
the astronomical world, and suggested to the Parisian
astronomers the idea of making an international chart of
the stars. The photographing will be undertaken by
eighteen observatories in different parts of the world, pro-
vided with similar instruments which, in the British
dominions and at Tacubaya, have been constructed by Sir
Howard Grubb. As each plate is limited to four square
degrees, with exposures corresponding to forty minutes at
Paris, and each star, to avoid possible errors, is to appear
on two plates, over 22,000 photographs will be required.
It is expected every star down to those of the fourteenth
magnitude will be shown. Besides the plates to form the
great chart, a second set for the catalogue is to be taken
with a shorter exposure, only showing stars to the eleventh
magnitude.

In the course of his address Professor Roberts-Austen
said it might be safely concluded that in the blast furnace
the peculiar action of carbonic oxide, in taking up
iron and redepositing it at a higher temperature, plays
an important part, and doubtless aided the carburization of
iron by cementation. His own experiments showed that
iron, at an elevated temperature, can be carburized by the
diamond in vacuo ; that is, in the absence of anything more
than " a trace " of an elastic fluid, or of any third element.
Osmond has further shown within the last few months that
the action between iron and carbon is a mutual one, for though
carbon in the pure diamond form carburizes iron, the metal
in its turn at a temperature of l,050deg. attacks the
diamond, invests it with a black layer, and truly unites
with it. (The importance of this in seeking to account for
the genesis of the diamond is extremely great. — Ed.) The
question of the direct carburization of iron by filtering the
molten metal through carbon promises to be of much im-
portance, for at present two millions of tons of steel, made in

the Bessemer converter in this country alone, are re-car -
burized after "the blow" by the addition of spiegeleisen
(a cast iron containing a very large amount of carbon and
some manganese). He exhibited and described his self-
recording pyrometer. In this instrument thermal junctions
of platinum, and platinum containing ten per cent, of rho-
dium, are connected with a reflecting galvanometer. The
spot of light from the mirror of this is caused to fall
on a slit before which a photographic plate passes at
a given rate, by which means a curve is traced corre-
sponding to the variations in temperature of the heated
thermal junction. The other junction is kept at a constant
temperature by immersion in water. Temperatures up to
the melting point of platinum can be determined within
lOdeg. The curves of cooling of several alloys have been
determined. The alloy of gold and aluminum differs from
others, such as that of platinum and lead, in that there is no
break in the curve at the point of solidification of the alloy.
He further remarked that Great Britain and her colonies
produce about thirty-eight per cent, of the gold supply
of the world. As an indication of the scale on which
operations are conducted, it may be stated that in London
alone one ton of gold and five tons of silver bullion can
easily be refined in a day. No pains have been spared
to perfect the method of assaying gold and silver.
During his twenty years' connection with the Royal Mint
he had been responsible for the accuracy of the standard
fineness of five hundred and fifty-five tons of gold coin, of
an aggregate value of seventy millions five hundred
thousand pounds sterling. The extraordinary development
of the platinum industry is due to the skill and enterprise
of the firm of Johnson, Matthey, and Co. They are able
to melt in a single charge two and a half hundredweight
of platinum, and in one operation extracted a mass of
palladium valued at £30,000 from gold-platinum ore actually
worth more than a million sterling.

One of the most remarkable points in the whole range
of chemistry is the action engendered between two elements
capable of reacting by the presence of a third body. It
may be, and this is the most wonderful fact of all, that
merely a trace of a third body is necessary to induce re-
action, or to profoundly modify the structure of a metal.
It is hoped that future research will throw further light on
this important fact. In " drossing " molten lead the
oxidation of the metal is greatly promoted by the presence
of a trace of antimony, and in the separation of silver
from molten lead the action is facilitated by the addition
of zinc. It has been shown that aluminum has a re-
markable effect in protecting zinc from loss by oxidation,
and, further, the presence of one-thousandth part of
aluminium in the metal is sufficient to do this.

Mr. Crookes described some experiments on the electrical
evaporation of metals and alloys. If a brush of gold be
placed in a vacuum tube and connected with the negative
pole of a coil, at ordinary temperature, with a piece of
glass underneath the gold, a metallic mirror appears on
the glass, increasing in thickness to a leaf which can be
peeled off, and is perfectly homogeneous. Films of
silver and platinum can be obtained also. Different metals
evaporate at different rates, one or two, such as aluminum
and magnesium, being apparently non-volatile. It is
possible, in the case of the aluminum-gold alloy discovered
by Professor Roberts- Austen, to separate a portion of the
gold from the aluminum by this means.

Mr. T. Turner gave an account of experiments which
he had made to discover the cause of the red blotches which
often appear on the surface of brass sheets on rolling,
greatly to the annoyance of Birmingham manufacturers.
It is found that they are due to the erosion of the zinc by
the chlorides present in the solution in which the brass has
been pickled, and in the water in which it is afterwards
washed, care not being always taken to prevent such
chlorides from drying on before rolling.

October 1, 1891.]

THE WATCHMAKER, JEWELER AND SILVERSMITH.

(By Vaaute.)

HAVE often referred to the turbulent,
unsettled, and dissatisfied state of
affairs that exists at the Diamond
Fields. When there is not one
thing there is another. A large
number of people, however, are
always willing to credit the De
Beers monopoly with all that is bad
and harmful. There are so few
people even in our mother country
who can take a broad and comprehensive view of things,
but judge the propriety of a thing by its direct action upon
themselves and one or two others. So that it is not sur-
prising to find men out here in this mushroom district,
where they rest more upon their own individual actions,
and are more cut off from the rest of the world, doing the
same tiling. The positions of the members of the De
Beers company as statesmen is anything but enviable.
To be a statesman in the eyes of many is to be a man who
would sacrifice the interest of the staple industry of the
colony to a few who happen to be there for the moment.
The demands which are constantly being made at meet-
ings are simply monstrous, and no one who stands aloof
can help admiring the calm, cool firmness with which Mr.
Rhodes is acting all through this most critical episode in
the history of South Africa. There have been three
reports of the distress committee, the substance of which
I feel assured it is necessary for your readers to know, as
the present state of things has such important bearing
upon the future of the diamond trade. The majority
report runs: — " On the whole your Committee have been
reluctantly forced to the conclusion that as distress and
poverty in Kimberley have arisen from natural causes, so
it must be left to natural remedies ; that it is an open
question whether the opening of any new mines would
permanently promote the trade and prosperity of Griqua-
land West and the colony," which I venture to think is a
common sense view of the case. They admit that the
closing of Bultfontein and Du Toit's Pan has been detri-
mental to the township of Beaconsfield, but doubt whether
the numbers of those employed in the industry have
fallen ; certainly white men have not, but, on the other
hand, show a good increase. Of the two other reports one
advocates the opening as public mines "all such mines
as the Wesselton." That greater powers should be given
the Government in regard to mines — some of which are
ridiculous. The other report is content in mainly echoing
the conclusions of the majority committee, but advocates
some alteration in the mining laws. These reports, how-
ever, have to be submitted to the House of Assembly.
Meanwhile, every organisation is up in arms against the
majority committee calling upon representing members to
resign, and all that sort of thing.

Turning from what is to be done with the mines to
what is bevruf done in them, I will first refer to the Wes-
selton, or Premier ; without laying claim to the laws of
priority, the latter is certainly the better name, as the
defining of the mine has shown it to be by far the largest
one. In seven weeks development they obtained no less than ■
23,000 carats, valued at £30,000. That the stones were
fair quality is certain, as the valuation was made by Mr.
Wallace, so long connected with the De Beers. There
were a fair sprinkling of medium sizes, and one a 30-carat
stone.

There is nothing, however, settled definitely as to the future
of the mine. Pour of the five claimants for the other half of
Ward's concession have received £10,000 between them ;
but the fifth one, Mr. J. Walsh, will not come to terms.

The case is now pending in the High Court. It is almost
incredible that another claimant, who is now in prison,
has sent out and advertised his prior claim. One wonders
when they will cease to come.

The De Beers recently sold about half a million's worth
of diamonds at 24s. They have a magnificent statement
ready for the next meeting, and it is said they will also
then publish their intended future policy.

Things are looking up a bit again at Otto's Kopje, but
this time will settle the question which people with the
best judgment maintain as a fact, viz., that it is in reality
not only a diamond mine, but a paying one. At any rate,
Mr. Lisle, whose abilities are so well known here, has
thought it worth his while to resign his position as manager
of the Kimberley mine under the De Beers Company,
and not only to take the management of it, but invest his
money in it. Over a thousand diamonds of excellent
quality have been got from the yellow ground ; the blue,
so far as I know, has not yet been touched. Mr. Lisle
considers the yellow very similar to that of Kimberley ;
but does not consider they are washing in the richest part.
As I believe the yellow has been proved to a depth of 80ft.,
it is fairly certain he will not be mistaken, as so large an
amount of material as this could not be the result of sub-
aerial denudation from other mines. There is, further,
another thing in their favor in washing yellow ground,
and that is, it does not have to be laid out for six or twelve
months to weather, but can be operated upon immediately.

The North-East Bultfontein keeps on good work, both in
washing, which gives on a fair average four or five thou-
sand carats a month (although it is frequently mainly re-
washings), and the storing of blue upon the floors, which
sometimes amounts to 10,000 loads a week.

The output of Jagersfontein in July was 9,383.1 carats,
valued at £16,805, by which it is evident either that prices
are not going up, or that the sample was below average.

Taking all the river diggings, we . find that in 1887 the
average price was 40s. lOJd. ; in 1888, 37s. 6Jd. ; in 1889,
53s. Id. ; and in 1890, 56s. 4^d. By cable from England
we hear, however, that " demand is greater, and prices
harder."

There is a great deal of successful prospecting going on,
and new mines are continually being announced.

At Thompson's Kopje the yellow upon which they are
now at work is similar to that at the Premier, and we are
informed that the De Beers have a watchful eye upon it.

Reports of extensive alluvial diamondiferous ground over
18ft. thick are coming in from Klipdam on the Vaal and
several other places, some laying at long distances, some
affirming that there are 200 square miles of diamondiferous
deposits between the Vaal and Hartz rivers, which will
solve the problem of distress in Kimberley.

Another thing that is attracting a good deal of attention
in Kimberley is the Prince Albert goldfields, but accounts
of them differ greatly. One account says they extend for
thirty miles, and that men are panning about three or four
ozs. a week. But there is evidence that they reach to
thousands of square miles, both as alluvium and reefs. In
my next I hope to send you particulars of this apparently
wonderful new goldfield.

At the last meeting of the American Jobbers' Association it
was stated that the prices of watch-cases and movements
had been reduced fully forty per cent, in six years, during
which time the daily output had doubled, standing now at
5,000 per day, which had been accompanied with a steady
improvement in the quality. Encouraged by the success
attending the introductions of the Geneva Optica,! Co's.
(Chicago) optometer into this country, Messrs. Botwright
and Grey are about to introduce other of the firm's
specialities, which we shall describe from time to time.

THE WATCHMAKER, JEWELER AND SILVERSMITH.

[October 1. 189

#t*erru$ of dtaferex&t.

Our contemporary, Tlie Pawnbrokers' Gazette,
broking' on had an article, on September 12th, on the
tiic wiiiic. aDove subject, which, to use its own words,
may be received with surprise, if not with incredulity.
According to the Report of the Inland Revenue for the
year ending March 31st, 1891, there were only 4,882 pawn-
brokers' licences issued, compared with 4,884 of the previous
year ; a decrease not very large, it is true, but it is sup-
ported by a set of valuable statistics which shows that the
number of pledges taken in is less, and that the average
amounts per pledge similarly suffer when compared with
business in past years, while the number of plate licences
has increased ; consequently " one fact is clearly brought
to light, pawnbrokers, as a body, are stationary, while
jewelers — or, at least, those trades which deal in small
articles of plate and jewelry — are increasing in numbers."
The article contains statistics of great value to the trade.
* # #

A correspondent in a contemporary writes : —
a sroiseless << ]\/[v -watch does not differ much in appearance

from an ordinary watch, but, neatly soldered on
to the end of the hour hand is a hairlike piece of platinum,
long enough to reach to the outside of the dial, and just
clearing the watch-case. Fixed inside the case, under the
glass, is another bit of platinum with which the hour hand
comes in contact at the time fixed. The front part of the
case is made so that it will revolve if turned with thumb
and fingers, so it can be set to within two minutes of
any time wished. The front and the back of the case are
insulated from each other by vulcanized indiarubber, so the
electric current can only pass through the watch during the
seven or eight minutes the two bits of platinum are in con-
tact. The watch fits on a stand made expressly for it, one
wire from the battery is connected to a terminal in contact
with the back of the watch, and another wire runs from
battery to shoeking-coil and from coil to front of watch,
and there's the circuit complete. Two flexible conducting
cords from the coil, one fixed to each ankle, leave the
bands free to turn off current by means of a switch, fixed to
head of bedstead just above pillow, the moment you are
awake. I must confess I prefer an electric vibrating bell
rather than the shocking-coil. There is no need to bury it
under the clothes to prevent it waking up everybody, as
you have to do with an alarum clock, but all you have to
do is to turn off the switch and the bell is silent. A watch
like mine can be had for £2, shocking-coil about 18s. (or,
if a bell instead, 8s.), Leclanche battery (two No. 2 cells)
4s. ready charged, a dozen yards cotton-covered line-wire
Is., switch (one way) Is. 6d."

* # #

According to the new agreement between the
*"-«■ United States and Spain, watches and clocks,

of gold, silver, or other materials, with cases of
stone, wood, or other material, plain or ornamented, of
American manufacture, are to be admitted into Cuba and
Porto Rica at a reduction off duty of 25 per cent.

*-3lm -Air

TV* "TV"

It is reported that the Hendon Corporation have
decided to sell their ancient mace for not less

THe
Apprecia-

tion ut tilim £400, and to apply the amount realised
towards the extinction of the debt of the
borough. This step was taken at a recent meeting of
the Town Council, six members voting for and two against.
It appears they are not so proud of their ancient insignia
and armorial bearings as Mr. Smith, an auctioneer of
South London, who was recently summoned at the Lam-
beth Police Court for wearing a lion rampant upon his
3ignet ring, and was lined £1 and 5s. costs, and bad to take
out a licence for armorial bearings. This is a course not
often adopted by the authorities, but it is just as well to

remember that we have thousands of times been "acces-
sory before and after the fact" to loyal subjects breaking
the law.

TV" TV"

Visitors to Folkestone are familiar with the

Oil i\lio k PaPer weights and other ornaments, made by

Case. sticking the small pyritized fossils, found in

the Eastwear Bay, into the gault clay. In a
similar manner an' ingenious clockmaker has recently
employed all the odds and ends, such as pieces of watches,
wheels, metal chains, and jewelry, held together with a
cement, as a clock case, the whole being subsequently
bronzed.

When the Rev. J. Wardale, of Datchworth,
Chimes. Herts, was about to present a turret clock to
the parish of Pembridge he found that although
he would have liked to have given one with the usual
chimes, there were only five bells all told, viz., G, A, B, C, D.
Usually under these circumstances he would have been
advised to fall back upon the ordinary ting-tang, but the
reverend gentleman not only understood something about
clocks, but he was well up in music too, and accordingly
he composed the following chimes, employing the G for
the hours : —

First Quarter — B, G.
Second Quarter — D, A, B, G.
Third Quarter— G, C, A, D, B, G.
Fourth Quarter— D, B, A, C, B, D, C, A.
We think this a splendid example of what might often
be done, as the sounds produced are by no means like
a makeshift, but rather call to mind some of the sweet
strains of well-known chimes.

# * * .

A gigantic, and at the same time somewhat

Specimen remarkable, clock has just been set up after a

Clocks, labor of some years by Mr. Alfred Speer in his

private park at Passaic. The dial is 48ft. in

diameter, and the minute hand 24ft. long. The hands will

be illuminated, which will enable one to see the time at

night five miles away. It is operated by an electromotor,

which in turn acts in response to a clock in Mr. Speer's

office. There are further electro -synchronising details for

transmitting time from the large clock to railways, etc.

Messrs. Tiffany and Co., New York, have just turned
out an astronomical clock with seven dials, in addition to
the main dial ; one shows the relative position of the earth
to the sun at any time of day or night ; another the time
at the different meridians of the globe and at twenty-seven
principal ports of the world ; others the phases of the moon,
signs of the Zodiac, etc. The clock is encased in mahogany,
about nine feet high ; it is for a Philadelphia club, and

cost 2,000dols.

* * *

There exists, and always has existed, a number
Aiitoniiitic 0f people, some of whom share the highest
watches, positions in the land, who are known collectors
of automatic figure watches. Anything they
have not got, or have not seen, providing it approaches
somewhat near a certain standard, they will buy it. What
that standard is we do not wish to say ; but they are not
such subjects as one would find on church windows. If
many were to hear of the automata that have been made
for the various Eastern courts they would be shocked ; but
what they would say if they saw the collections of unmen-
tionable dignitaries we are at a loss to think. H. Ringler
Locle has just patented an ingenious, simple, and effective
action to a watch for the working of automatic figures ; the
figures shown in the specification are simple, pleasing, and
harmless enough, and let us hope they will always be
employed upon such innocent subjects, as no doubt they
will. Such watches commend themselves to many minds
as extra ingenious, and against them nothing can be said
— quite the contrary.

October 1, 1891.]

THE WATCHMAKER, JEWELER AND SILVERSMITH.

The following tale, given as an illustration
pfated 1<^at° °^ " w^a* they do in America," is furnished

by a Boston correspondent. A freak of
lightning, we are told, occurred the other night near the
small village of New Salem, Vermont, at the foot of the
Heldeberg Mountains. Arent S. Vandyck occupies an old
mansion, in the parlour of which hung a collection of
revolutionary swords, one of which was heavily plated with
silver. On the night in question a terrific thunderstorm
burst, and one particularly fearful crash stunned everyone
in the house. Quickly recovering, the family hastened
to see what damage had been done. Suddenly the
younger Vandyck pointed to an old-fashioned sofa. There
lay what seemed to be a silver cat, curled up as comfortably
as could be. Each glittering hair was separate and
distinct, and each silvery bristle of the whiskers described as
graceful a curve as if in life. Turning to the swords on
the wall, just over the sofa, father and son remarked that
the plated sword had been stipped of all its silver ; the
scabbard was a strip of blackened steel, and the hilt had gone
altogether. The family cat had been electro-plated by
lightning ! A round hole in a window pane, about the size
of a half-dollar, showed where the electro-fluid had entered.
It is thought the plating of the cat's surface will prevent
decay, and that she may be retainer! permanently among
the family curiosities.

# * *

The Economists Frangais publishes an
WafchXi^d interesting article upon the progress of

the Swiss watch trade, which is described
as having undergone a complete transformation within the
last fifteen years, this transformation being due to the
substitution of manufactories for work in the homes of the
watchmakers themselves. The opening of these manu-
f ictories has led to a decrease in the cost price of the watch
and to a great increase in the sale, so much so that at the
recent Paris • Exhibitr n the official report of the inter-
national jury was to the effect that Switzerland occupied
the first rank as regards chronometers, watches of precision,
and complicated works, and has made great progress in the
domain of watches for common use, this progress being
due to the improvement in the equipment of the manu-
factories. The different schools for teaching the watch
trade at Geneva, Neuchatel, la Chaux des Fonds, Locle,
Bienne, St. Imier, and Porrentruy, the various associa-
tions of manufactories, and the journals dealing with the
subject of watchmaking have contributed in no small
degree to this progress, which has been very marked in the
last six years, the number of watches exported from
Switzerland having increased from 2,734,234 in 1885 to
4,431,301 last year ; these figures do not include the works
and cases exported separately. The value of the exports
last year is given as £4,000,000, while the wages paid are
so high that many families earn from £12 to £16 a month.
This, considering that the cost of living is not nearly so
high in Switzerland as it is in the manufacturing centres
of England, France, and Germany, enables those who earn
these wages to put by a considerable proportion of it.

^ *£ &

The musical clock which was presented to the

An Emperor of Morocco, that cost 2,000 guineas,

Magical was recently landed at the Custom House,

Clock, being returned to be repaired, there being no

artist in the Empire capable of undertaking it.

It is quite evident that Switzerland appre-

Technicai ciates the value of Technical Education, and

inS*s,«itzer-im^ess something considerably more than has

land. characterised the past is done in this country,

we shall be left a long way behind. They have

recently made a grant of £22,946 to the Polytechnic of

Zurich, and farther grants to nine other institutions which

teach watchmaking, woodcarving, and drawing.

An American watchmaker says there is a certain
Mainspringy-time 0f ^g year — about July — when the

ana tlic . •> •>

Atiiiospherc.atmospnere has a much greater action on

watch .springs than at any other time. He
says during that time he puts in main springs at the rate
of twenty to one compared with any other time. While
we do not feel disposed to accept this statement, we think
that some valuable statistics of this sort might be got out
by jobbers, which might afterwards be compared with the
meteorological conditions of the time.

Messrs. Spink, of Gracechurch Street, claim

w«w Kicctrothat by their newly-patented system Green-

in?. wich Mean time can be available to the public

every half minute, and that any number of
clocks can be rendered absolutely synchronous with the
parent clock at the Royal Observatory. It is expected that
some very ingenious inventions for this purpose will be
shown at the forthcoming exhibit at the Crystal Palace,
which will not be opened till January 1st, 1892, owing to
its operations being greatly extended.

?o«3>o=;

" Siig feen'tk " eJ\nce/&fotv!>.

SMONG the miscellaneous records of the Exchequer,
preserved in our Public Archives, is to be found the
following curious account of a clockmaker, rendered
in 1426. Big Ben wants more financing than did his
ancestor four hundred and fifty years ago. The details of the
mechanism here given are of peculiar interest : ' ' Particulars
[of the account] of Agnes Dalavan, wife of Geoffrey Dalavan,
deputy of John Lenham, keeper, of the clock of | our] Lord
the King within his palace of Westminster, for repairs to the
said clock, viz., from the feast of St. Michael in the fourth
year of the reign of King Henry, the Sixth after the con-
quest of England, to the same feast next following, viz.,
for one whole year. Firstly, to Thomas (so far in Latin,
then follows in English) [the] clokmaker for makyng of
the saylle, when it was broken, 8s. Item, for amendyng
of the springes of the barell, 6s. 8d. Item, for wire for
the stobill, 12d. Item, for amendyng of the note and the
spyndell, 7s. Item, to the said clokmaker for his reward
for the said yere, 13s. 4d. Item, for two grete' ropes, the
toon poys [i.e. the one weighing] , 521bs., and the tother
poys, 491bs., price the lb., Id. ob. [i.e., l^d.], summa, 12s.
7d. ob. Item, for two cordes of threde for the littell poys
[i.e. weight], 2s. Item, for bordes, lattes [i.e. laths], and
mattes boght for to stop the wynd foo [i.e. from] the said
clok, 22d. . (Then in Latin) Also, particulars [of the
account] of the said Agnes for repairs to the said clock
from the feast of St. Michael in the fifth year of the reign
of King Henry, the Sixth after [the conquest] of England,
to the same feast next following, viz., for one whole year.
Firstly, for repair of (then in English) the extre, 5s. Item,
for three lacches and two pynnes of irrynne [i.e. iron], 3s.
Item, for amendyng of four poleys of latton and four boltes
and four clenches ther-to that dragh (sir) the hamer, 3s. 4d.
Item, for three lenkes and one ryng and one bolt for the
hamer, 2s. Item, for amendyng of the lansyng of the ore-
lege, 6s. 8d. Item, for two grete ropes, the toon poys,
511bs. And the tother poys, 521bs., price the lb., Id. ob.,
summa, 12s. lOd. ob. Item, for cordes for the littell poys,
2s. 2d. Item, to the said clokmaker for his reward for the
said yeres, 13s. 4d." Annexed to the proceedings is a fair
copy of the above expenses rendered in Latin, and giving
their total at " 100s. lOd." Agnes Dalavan acknowledges
to have received from the Treasurer and Chamberlains of
the King's Exchequer the sum of 66s. 8d., so that there was
due io her 34s. 2d. It will be noticed that the weights for
the King's clock at Westminster required to be renewed
every year. In the annexed account Agnes Dalavan further
acknowledges to have received during the two years afore-
said four large ropes, weighing 2041bs., and two small coids,
not weighed. — (/it,;/ Press,

THE WATCHMAKER, JEWELER AND SILVERSMITH.

[October 1, 1891.

ff?e (^nj^taffograp^L) oj? (§[emx$.

By the Editor.
(■< 'ontinued from page 53.)

The Monoclinic System. — Continued.

The Natural Forms of Spodumene.

HE Spodumene is another beautiful gem that
crystallizes in the monoclinic system ; it is
not so fiery a stone as the sphene, but
nevertheless often trails closely behind" it,
while it has other charms of its own equally
characteristic, nor is its color suite so
extensive ; like corundum and several other minerals it is
usually more or less opaque, when its colors are quiet
and sombre, usually of a dull grey ; but gems of this
mineral are extremely clear and bright, and vary from
perfect white through yellows to pale greens. A lovely
emerald-green variety was discovered a few years ago in
North Carolina, and named hiddenite (after Mr. George
Hidden).

Spodumene crystals are invariably prisms, sometimes
singly, and sometimes doubly terminated. The clino-
pinacoid or face parallel to the clinodiagonal axis is
usually striated ; frequently at first sight crystals might
be mistaken for members of the trimetric system, but it
must be remembered that the basal plane s not at right
angles to the prismatic faces in front and1 behind, and
hence the top plane, as in figs. 46 and 47, is at an angle of
69deg. 40min., and lateral planes occur in zones bearing
this same relation to the vertical.

Fig. 46 is a common form and consists of a combination
of a rectangular and rhombic prism with their edges replaced
by faces of another rhombic prism (of the same system),
terminated by a clinodome, truncated by a basal plane.
Sometimes a rhombic prism is terminated by a rectangular
pyramid, which may or may not be terminated by a basal
plane.

Fig. 47 is a beautiful doubly terminated crystal. It will
be observed that the upper and lower pyramids are not the
same, from reasons before explained ; it exhibits a further
multiplication of the prismatic faces, for here we have in
addition to the faces of the rhombic and rectangular prisms
other faces consequent upon the extension of one of the lateral
axes. It will also be seen that the pyramidal faces can be
similarly multiplied, that they do not necessarily follow in
the same zone as the prismatic faces present, that they
may rise at different angles consequent upon the extension
of the vertical axis, and that faces may sometimes be
developed on one side of the crystal that are not developed
on the other.

There is one feature of spodumene which, although
belonging to its physical properties, and not to its crystal-
lographic, is, nevertheless, so persistent and asserting, that
it nearly always modifies the form in which the gem is
found, viz., its remarkable cleavage, which is so perfect that
it is easy to split up a crystal into quite thin laminae, some-
thing after the manner of mica, and hence one seldom sees
a crystal that has not been split, giving it a more or less
tubular form ; there are further other cleavage planes in

such directions that either prisms or pyramids can be
obtained by simple cleavage only. The gem is necessarily
very difficult to cut and polish.

In addition to its distinctive color the hiddenite is
characterised by an entirely different crystalline habit ; it
occurs in long prisms very rarely easily " readable," pre-
senting a fractured appearance. I have seen many hun-
dreds of these crystals without being able to find a perfect
one ; the faces of the rhombic prism are most common,
although sometimes both prisms- are present, but not
always distinct. They are always bright and lustrous,
often striated longitudinally, cither by more or less straight
lines on the clinopinacoid, or by discontinuous angular and
somewhat curved ones on the other faces. Often on the
prismatic faces, especially the orthopinacoids, there are
triangular depressions, the line of the apices of which form
an acute angle with the vertical ; and not straight as is the
case with the triangular depressions on the diamond. The
terminations are very jagged and composed of numerous
small, low, pyramidal projections. There is no other
crystal with which it can be confused ; its approach to, or
assumption of the rhombic outline, immediately separates
it from every other gem except topaz, from which it is
readily distinguished by its green color. Gems of a lovely
dark, bright " emerald " green have been found up to four
or five carats. The crystal illustrated (fig. 48) is from my
own collection ; it is nearly two inches long and throe-
sixteenths of an inch wide, so that it has been magnified
about three times. It is very difficult to show its shape in
an outline drawing ; but I trust sufficient details have been
given to render it easily recognizable.

LETTERS TO THE EDITOR.

THE QUALIFICATION OF THE OPTICIAN.

To the Editor of The Watchmaker, Jeweler and

Silversmith.

Dear Sir,— Your able leader, entitled " The Qualification
of the Optician," afforded memuch pleasure, and I only hope
it may lead to something being done towards placing those
men, who by years of careful study have made themselves
masters of what you rightly call a profession, upon a
recognised basis, and thus secure the public against the harm
they are likely to suffer from either ignorant or unprincipled
dealers in spectacles.

Perhaps it may be urged that oculist -surgeons would be
unwilling to allow a portion of their calling to pass out of
their hands. My answer to this is that they do not at
present, and never will, obtain the whole of the practice.
If the course you suggest were carried out their practice
would be rather increased than diminished, for a skilled
optician would at once recognise those cases where a
qualified oculist's surgical or medical aid would be
beneficial, and earnestly recommend the patient to seek it ;
whilst an ignorant dealer in optics would allow the patient
to grope his way through life if he could only sell one more
pair of spectacles. Again, the medical man would have as
much confidence in sending his prescriptions to a man who
had passed the needful examination as a physician now has
in sending his prescription to a duly qualified chemist. An
eminent opthalmic surgeon says : " A large portion of the
time of every opthalmic consultant is occupied day after
day in repeating to successive patients precepts and in-
junctions which ought to be universally known and under-
stood." If the above has been written about the patients
themselves, it seems reasonable to infer that there is very
little cause to fear any opposition to the laudable desire of
sellers of spectacles to qualify themselves for supplying
optical aid for the public from, at any rate, the bright and
shining lights of the profession. " Optician."

October 1, 1891.]

THE WATCHMAKER, JEWELER AND SILVERSMITH.

feeH'nicaP GiLucation at* ffie
pofvfecftnic.

HE winter session of the Polytechnic, Regent
Street, opened on Monday the 28th of
September, under the auspices of the new
governing body. Their prospectus announces
classes in over 200 subjects, among which
watch and clock making and goldsmiths'
work are well represented. In connection
with the former, the classes are as follows : —

PRACTICAL INSTRUCTION IN JOBBING.*

Monday, 6 to 10, and 8 to 10. Fee 9 to 10, 8s ; 8 to 10,
6s. 6d. per quarter.

THEORETICAL MECHANICS.

9 to 10; Elem. (2nd Division or Fluids). 8 to 9 ;
Advanced (2nd Division or Fluids).

WATCH AND CLOCK MAKING.

Tuesday. — Elementary Practical Instruction in Clock
Making (Syllabus, Stage I.) 6 to 10 and 8 to 10.f Fee 6
to 10, 8s. ; 8 to 10, 6s. 6d. per quarter. Technical pre-
paratory for the City and Guilds of London Institute
Examination in the Ordinary Grade. Fee for the
session, 5s.

9 to 10. — Syllabus : Great works of clocks and watches,
conditions of their arrangement, mainspring, stopworks,
brace and maintaining work, forms of teeth, of pinion leaves,
proportions, uniform lead, calculations of trains, motions,
convertions, properties and classifications of escapements,
dead beat, simple and conical pendulum, recoil, horizontal,
duplex, lever and chronometer escapements, conditions of
pallets, length and weight of pendulum, pendulum arc,
elements of timing, tools, elements of solar and sidereal
observations.

Students in this class are recommended to join the
classes in Theoretical Mechanics and Mathematics in the
Elementary Grades. They will also find it especially
advantageous to join the Drawing Class for Watch and
Clock Making.

In this grade, in addition to the certificate, one silver
medal £2, and two bronze medals are offered by the City
and Guilds of London Institute.

THEORETICAL MECHANICS.

8 to 9 ; Elem. (1st Division or Solids).

Wednesday. — Medium Practical (Syllabus, Stages II. and
III.) 6 to 10 and 8 to 10. Fee 6 to 10, 3s. ; 8 to 10,
6s. 6d. per quarter. Technical Preparatory for the Honors
Grade for the City and Guilds of London Institute Ex-
amination. Fee for session, 5s.

9 to 10. — Syllabus : Analysis of escapements, horizontal,
duplex, lever, chronometer, gravity escapement, equations
to curves of teeth, depths, simple pendulum, tautochronism
of the pendulum arc, compound pendulum, conical pen-
dulum, parabolic pendulum, compensation, timing, annular
balance, isochronism, timing and adjusting, temperature
errors, Hartnup's formulas, solar and sidereal observations,
meridians, sundials.

Students for the Honors Class are specially recom-
mended to join the Advanced Class in the Theoretical
Mechanics, and also in Mathematics. In this grade the
following prizes are offered : £3 and silver medal, and
bronze medals.

THEORETICAL MECHANICS.

8 to 9 ; Advanced (1st Division or Solids).

APPLIED MECHANICS.

Elementary, 7 till 8. Advanced, 9 till 10.
Thursday. — Drawing Class for Watch and Clock Making,
from 8 to 9.45. Fee for the session, 5s.

Syllabus : Elementary exercises in plane and practical
geometry, cycloid, epicycloid and hypocycloid, parabola,
evolute of parabola and its application to the parabolic
pendulum, involute curve, epicycloidal and involute curved
teeth, forms of pinion leaves, depths, plans of various
escapements, calibres, striking, chime, repeating and key-
less motions, plans and elevations, isometric projections,
back-lining and shading, coloring.

Friday. — Practical Instruction in Escapement Making
and Adjustments, Springing and Timing, and Superior
Jobbing Work, 6 to 10. Fee, 10s. 6d.

Syllabus : Applying flat, brequet, and cylindrical springs,
adjusting for temperature isochronism and positions, cor-
rections for escapement errors, taking time by transit ob-
servations, etc.

To meet the requirements of students who are unable to
attend the evening classes, the committee is prepared to
make arrangements for attendance at the day classes for
such periods as may suit their special conveniences.

Practical instruction is given daily from 10 to .5 ; Draw-
ing on Friday from 2 to 5, and in Theory on Thursday
from 3 to 5.

The educational programme of the Polytechnic affords
ample opportunity for students to obtain a full certificate
in one session.

Special prizes are awarded at the examinations held each
year, and Free Studentships for the ensuing session at any
of the Science Classes is awarded to those students who
pass successfully in two science subjects, provided that in
one instance at least a first-class pass is obtained.

The Governing Body of the Polytechnic also offer a
special prize to the value of 21s. to ail students who make
at least twenty attendances and pass successfully in one
technical and two science subjects.

Special prizes are also offered by the committee for com-
petition in each of the classes to those who have made at
least twenty attendances and sit at the departmental ex-
aminations.

GOLDSMITHS' WORK AND THE MANUFACTURE OF PERSONAL
ORNAMENTS.

On Friday Evenings, from 8.30 till 9.30.

The instruction afforded will embrace the following : — ■

The principles and methods of manufacturing the
various kinds and styles of personal jewelry ; the exhibi-
tion and description of the tools generally used ; the simpler
gold alloys and their solders, together with the various
methods adopted in finishing gold work.

Special lectures will also be given, dealing with the sub-
jects of Chasing, Engraving, and Enamelling.

The Course will also include other information likely to
be of special advantage to all engaged in the various
branches of the trade.

Only those engaged in the watch and clock making and
goldsmith or jewelry trades will be eligible to attend the
Technical class.

Special classes are also held for Designing and Chasing
as applied to goldsmiths and jewelers' work.

Time table of classes of over 200 subjects can be had free
on application.

* For the collective interest of the class it is necessary that each
student provides small tools.

t The classes in Elementary Practical Work are especially suitable
for those -who are going ahroad, or residing at great distances from
manufacturing centres, as they have an opportunity of fundamental
exercise in practical work of every description.

A contemporary describing the manufacture of a
magnificent microscope with a magnifying power of 11,000
diameters, lately made for the Chicago Exhibition, states
that the light used for the illumination is equal to 11,000
c.p. They do not say where the eye is going to be manu-
factured to stand such a light.

- .

THE WATCHMAKER, JEWELER AND SILVERSMITH.

[October 1, 1891.

©ur U r^oDi-oug^t" Matenafx^.

The Future of Aluminum.

The facts recently brought forward by the chairman of
the Aluminum Company at its fourth annual ordinary
general meeting-, are interesting from many points of view.
They show that however well a nest may appear feathered
it is advisable not to put all one's eggs into it. He
observed that when the company was formed, only four
years ago, the price of aluminum was from 60s. to 70s.
per lb. ; they were then able to produce it at 20s. per lb.
with a handsome profit. But soon after this, electrical
processes were patented by others, which so reduced the
price that at the previous meeting of . the company it stood
at 6s. or 8s. But only in the short time of one year it
had fallen down to 2s. per lb. ; this is lower than we have
ever seen it quoted in this country. Several American
firms advertise it at a dollar a pound, and we have seen
prospectuses and companies which set forth they can make
it for 6d. Should this ever be realised, and a cheap and
easy method of obtaining it from ordinary aluminous clays
be invented, there is no predicting the influence it would
have on modern civilisation.

Gold in Western Australia.

With regard to the news of fresh discoveries of gold in the
North- West of Western Australia, which we have previously
announced, an old digger named Douglas says he has dis-
covered three reefs on the Upper Murchison, and shows a
number of rich quartz specimens, and a small quantity of
alluvial gold, including a two-ounce nugget and several rang-
ing up to one ounce. One of the quartz specimens weighs
nine ounces, and contains fully fifty per cent, of gold. He,
however, gives a dismal story as to the state of affairs and
the country ; food and water being unobtainable.

J?EW Discoveries of

Q^u

ICKSILVER.

The Persian Bank Mining Rights Corporation have re-
ceived information from their engineer that he has dis-
covered a vein of quicksilver, upon which he is now
engaged in preparing a full report. It is also said that in
constructing the new Doner railway line, the Russian
engineers have struck a valuable deposit of the same
metal.

Origin of Gold Nuggets.

Large gold nuggets are still reported from Western
Australia in alluvial deposits reaching three figures. It is
very significant that all large gold nuggets have been
found in alluvial deposits which in great part origin-
ate by the destruction of quartz reefs, which may or may not
contain gold ; and yet we never heard of anything like a
nugget being found in quartz. The probability, therefore,
is that nuggets are segregations, or aggregations of gold,
deposited from the waters percolating these strata ; but
when one remembers that the only waters that could
possibly reach many of these patches of gravel, since they
were left by the rivers in which they were deposited, are
of meteoric origin, it appears necessary that those waters
should have taken up the gold in solution from the upper
part of the beds to be able thus to redeposit it.

A New Large Ruby.

We hear that a large ruby of 304 carats is on its way to
London from the Burma mines. As we hear nothing about
its quality we fear it belongs to the same grade as those
recently sold by Messrs. Christie and Manson. But after all,
what gambling this ruby-mining is ! What a sell it
would be to many of a pessimistic turn of mind if a really
large ruby of fine quality were found, say of a hundred
carats ! And yet there is nothing a priori why this should

not happen, except, perhaps, that probabilities based upon
past experiences do not lead us to look favorably in that
direction. About eight or nine years ago a merchant
brought over from India, with the object of selling it, a
large sword handle about five inches long and two inches
wide, cut out of a solid ruby — one hardly liked to call it
corundum, as it was ruby-red, but at the same time it was
only adamantine spar, or crystalline corundum. No one
in this country cared for it, and so it had to be returned to
its native land, where it will doubtless be catalogued among
the treasures of the Orient, say as a diamond sword with a
ruby handle five inches long (which may be increased in
proportion to the miles the account travels) ; and some
biographer, historian, or literary pastepot will try and
work out its value from Jeffrey's tables, and present a row
of figures going across the page. We have known a similar
thing to occur before now, and see the figures quoted by
trade journals who ought to know better (e.g., the Bra-
ganza).

The Randt Output Rising.

The crushings at the Randt Mines for August yielded
59,070oz., which is 2,608oz. higher than in any previous
month. The output for April last, 56, 362oz., being the
next highest figure.

More (&a&i(?e£&.

fT the recent opening of the Arts and Crafts Loan Exhibi-
tion at Kendal by the Princess Louise Marchioness
of Lome, her Royal Highness was presented with a silver
casket containing an address. The casket was designed
and executed by Mr. Dimsdale Carlisle, 29, Market Place,
Kendal. It is a very substantial, solid, and effective piece
of work, and has so inspired Her Royal Highness that she
has since written to the mayor expressing her admiration
of the beauty and workmanship of it. Well done, Mr.
Carlisle !

VT7HE casket which is to contain the freedom of the City
e)Jfe of Newcastle, to be presented to Mr. Gladstone, has
been entrusted to Mr. R. H. Burton, goldsmith,
Cloth Market, Newcastle. The body of the casket will be
of ebony, richly ornamented with 18-carat gold. It will be
oblong in form, and the general design and decoration of
the Renaissance period. On the front will be a centre
medallion of gold, on which will be enamelled the portrait
of the right hon. gentleman, surrounded by a wreath of
laurel and oak ; and below this will be placed the city arms
in' true heraldic colors. On either, side will be an elegant
panel with gold scrolled shield, one bearing the view of
St. Nicholas' Cathedral, and the other the old Castle. On
the reverse side of the casket, enamelled in gold, will be a
view of the High Level and Swing Bridges, and below this
the arms and crest of Mr. Gladstone. At the four corners
there will be a gold ornamental and garlanded pillar. On
each end is to be an ornamental gold panel, and in
these will be represented the rise and progress of the loco-
motive and railway system, Stephenson's engine " Billy "
being shown on one end, and the modern express engine
on the other. The lid of the casket will bear on the
front a gold inscription plate, and on the reverse side
will be shown an Armstrong gun. The four shoulders
of the lid will be richly decorated with gold scrolls, etc., and
the ends will bear symbolical ornamentations ; and form-
ing the apex will be the city crest, giving the lid a graceful
finish.

• Silk and metallic diamond mounted fobs are in good
demand. Platinum and gold jeweled fobs and bracelets
are also selling.

October 1, 1891-1

THE MATCHMAKER, JEWELER AND SILVERSMITH.

I1ROADLY speaking, prospects all round on the other
E) side of the Atlantic are of the most cheerful and
satisfactory nature. In most places there are heavier
grain crops than for very many years, whilst the amount
of available money in active circulation is a hundred
million dollars more than it was at the middle of the
crop moving season of 1889. Many trade journals
affirm that it may be said that never before has trade been
so brisk. Everything points to a phenomenal fall business.

* * . *
EVERYTHING is now being pushed forward in earnest

in Chicago. Spaces are being selected, or are already
taken, by the large manufacturers connected with our
trades, and everything points to the exhibition being an
unprecedented one so far as the United States is con-
cerned. In the city itself alterations are being effected,
and new regulations enforced with a view of removing all
obstructions to an overflowing host of visitors. One of the
first things to be removed has been all clocks and such-
like things from side-walks, which will henceforth be
elevated a storey or two.

* ' * . #

TTTHAT the American Government now intend doing all
sj® they can to popularise the exhibition and remove all
obstacles is further evident from a circular which
has been issued to the Diplomatic and Consular Officers
of the United States, and which states that —

" The Attorney- General has tendered an opinion that
skilled employes of foreign exhibitors at the Chicago Expo-
sition, who come, in good faith, for the purpose of setting
up and operating the machinery of such exhibitors, are
outside of, and not subject to, the contract labour laws of
the United States. The same opinion is expressed with
reference to clerks, stall-keepers, and other persons coming
to the United States for the sole purpose of aiding foreign
exhibitors."

* # *

F EARL-HUNTING still continues a fever. Several
rivers in Illinois have been attacked. At Grand
Rapids, Wis., a farmer claims to have found several
hundred pearls, which has driven many off their heads.
The same state exists near Council Bluff's, la. A party at
work in the Cedar River took out 150,000 unios in three
weeks, for which wholesale destruction they were rewarded
with 400dols. worth of pearls. One found in the Mac-
kinnon has been valued at 500dols.

* * #

f WATCH factory is to be built at Oak Creek, near
Milwaukee, Wis., by a company with 200,000dols.

The Trenton Watch Company have just increased their
capital by 200,000dols., most of which has been taken by
the directors and old shareholders. Longstanding orders
will probably now be wiped off in time.

The United States Company are about to put a new
18-size open-face full-plate watch upon the market.

The San Jose (Cal.) Company are already in trouble
over their land, which, the owner claims, was never
legally conveyed.

Granby, Conn., is also to have a clock factory.

The Elgin watchmakers are trying to form a national
watchmakers' union.

So great is the popularity of the Tancuil (Mass.) Watch
Tool Company that it has recently doubled its capacity.

A watch was recently brought back to repair — one of the
old Nashua Watch Company's — which could look round
the factory and enjoy the pleasure of knowing that since it
was turned out of doors five million one hundred thousand
younger brethren had shared a similar fate.

The Illinois Watch Company have put up a machine for
making watch dials.

@J\

itanclarcl oj? (Uime
'orfi.

for iHpf

@\/\^

(7JT the weekly meeting of the Balloon Society of Great
j^X Britain, held at St. James' Hall, London, on
September 11th, a paper entitled " A Standard of
Time for the World " was read by Mr. W. H. Le Fevee,
C.E., President of the Society. The lecturer said : —

" Having been requested to address you this evening, I
may perhaps call your attention to the papers previously
read before the members by one of our vice-presidents, Mr.
Kendal, of the firm of Kendal and Dent ; and also to the
prize of 100 guineas given by him to the author of the best
essay on the 24-o'clock system. The title of Mr. Kendal's
paper, which was read at our first meeting this year, was,
' Time, and the Prime Meridian Conference at Rome ' ;
when the following resolution was adopted : — ' That, in
the opinion of this meeting, it would be unwise and in-
expedient to disturb the prime meridian of Greenwich, as
already agreed by a majority of the members of the confer-
ences at Rome, 1883, and Washington, 1884. And further,
that Her Majesty's Government be requested to use all
legitimate means in their power to prevent, at the approach-
ing conference at Rome, Jerusalem being fixed upon as the
prime meridian of the world — a place without an observa-
tory, and at present only accessible by an open roadstead
at Jaffa, and with no railway communication to the spot.'
That resolution was in due course forwarded to the Foreign
Office, and, by means of the Press, public attention was
called to the subject ; and I may venture to think that
this society was instrumental in preventing the conference
being held at Rome. The title of my paper to-night is ' A
Standard of Time for the World.' I purpose dealing with
the subject generally, and lead up to what everyone must
desire, viz., A Universal Time. I assume, after the
conference at Rome, 1883, at Washington, 1884, and the
Berne conference, this year, that no one will willingly
attempt to disturb the prime meridian of Greenwich. I am
glad to say that there is a movement now going on for
reckoning time on a scientific basis, by which the
greatest possible degree of simplicity, accuracy, and
uniformity will be obtainable in all countries throughout
the world. The reckoning of time is still in a primitive
and imperfect condition in many countries. The
introduction of rapid means of communication prove
that time is computed generally on principles
which are untenable. During the last eight years efforts
have been made to overcome the evils by establishing a
system on a sound scientific basis which would be accept-
able to all nations, and by which perfect accuracy, uni-
formity, and simplicity would everywhere be obtainable.
The subject has been considered by many individuals, and
by scientific societies, including congresses at Venice,
Rome, and Washington. The latter embraced delegates
from twenty-five nations. After patient deliberation and
discussion, the object of this International Conference was
accomplished by the passing of a series of resolutions for
the adoption of a universal system of reckoning time. The
important results of the conference were the establishment
(1) of a prime meridian for reckoning longitude ; (2) a
zero for time reckoning ; and (3) a unit measure of time to
be common to the whole world. (1.) The prime meridian
to correspond with the Greenwich meridian. (2.) The
zero of time may be defined as the moment of mean solar
passage on the anti-prime meridian. (3.) The unit measure
of time, designated the universal day, may be defined as
the interval between two successive mean solar passages
on the anti-prime meridian. (4.) The universal day shall
be counted in a single series from zero to 24. Con-
siderable progress has been made in the adoption of the
principles of universal time, and the practical success
which has attended the application of those principles goes

THE WATCHMAKER, JEWELER AND SILVERSMITH.

[October 1, 1891.

to show that the unification of reckoning by the several
nations can besf be effected step by step. At present, real
and mean time agree about the 15th of April, the 11th of
June, the 31st of August, and the 25th of December. The
greatest differences are about the 23rd of October, when
the clock is said to be 16 minutes slow of the sun ; and
about tlie 30th of January, when it is said to be
14 minutes fast of the sun. The Greenwich mean solar
day then is really the mean of all the solar days in
the year ; and the equation of time is the amount to
be added to or subtracted from the true solar time, in
order to convert it into mean time. Sundials of course show
true solar time. The lunar year, comprehending 12
moons, or 354 days, 8 hours, 43 minutes, was the regula-
tion of time among the Chaldeans, Persians, and Jews.
The solar or astronomical year is different ; the earth per-
forming its revolution round the sun in 365 days, 5 hours,
48 minutes, 49-7 seconds. No account was taken of the
odd hours till the year 45 b.c, when this error in the com-
putation of the year had become very considerable. The
surplus 5 hours, 48 minutes, 49-7 seconds was taken as
'6 hours, making one day in 4 years. This day was there-
fore added to every fourth year. There still remained the
apparently trifling difference of 11 minutes, 11 seconds,
between the computed and the real year, thus producing
an error of about 7 days in 900 years. To adjust the
calendar, a new one was published by Pope Gregory XIII.
in 1582, omitting 10 days (the 5th October becoming 15th
October), which represented the accumulated error ; and it
was decided that three leap years should be omitted every
400 years. Thus, as 1600 was leap year, the years 1700,
1S00, and 1900 are not, but 2000 will be leap year. The
new style was not adopted in Great Britain till 1752, when
eleven days were jumped, the 3rd September being reckoned
14th September. As our year still exceeds the true year,
although by an extremely small fraction, another leap year
in addition to those should be omitted once in 4,000
years. The daily movement of the earth takes place in
24 hours of mean time, or 86,400 seconds ; and the daily
rate of a chronometer would be accurately represented by
this number if it were exactly to mean time ; but that could
never be the case, except momentarily ; the timing always
leaves a slight difference, which may be either a gain, ( + ),
or a loss, ( — ), and we therefore have a daily rate = 86,400
± a fraction of a second, and if we assume there be a gain
of 0-2 seconds, we have — daily rate = 86,400 -f- 0-2
seconds, or supply -f 0-2.

" Reckoning by Hour Meridians. The first important step
is the adoption of the hour zone system, commonly
designated in America ' Standard Time.' It may be
stated that in the theory of universal time, the funda-
mental principle is Unity, it is held that there is not more
than one time in the whole universe ; and that the idea of
separate and distinct times in each separate locality is
incorrect. The hour zone system is introduced as an easy
means of transition from old to new ideas, and it is found
that by adopting hour meridians as local standards for
reckoning, grave difficulties are overcome. The hour zone
: system also furnishes the means of applying the correct
principles of universal time in ordinary affairs. In the
hour zone system the circumference of the globe is divided
into twenty-four sections or zones. The central line
©f each zone is an hour meridian ; and the hour
meridians are fifteen degrees of longitude apart. As the
earth rotates on its axis in twenty-four hours, an hour
elapses between the solar passage on each successive hour
meridian ; it is obvious, therefore, that if the reckoning in
each zone be governed by its respective meridian, the
reckonings everywhere will be directly related, and through-
out the globe there will be complete identity in the min-
utes and seconds. As the reckoning in the zone of the
twelfth-hour meridian corresponds with universal time,
the reckonings in all zones to the east of that meridian

will be one or more full hours in advance of universal time;
and in all zones to the west of the twelfth-hour meridian,
the reckonings will be behind universal time. ' Universal
Time ' will be the mean of all possible reckonings under
the hour zone system ; and the ' Universal Day ' will be
the mean of all possible local days. The hour zone system
has been adopted for ordinary use in portions of the three
continents of Asia, Europe, and America. In 1887 an
Imperial Ordinance was promulgated directing that on and
after 1st January in the year following, time throughout
the Japanese Empire would be reckoned by the third-hour
meridian. The reckoning in England and Scotland is by
the twelfth-hour meridian ; in Sweden by the eleventh-
hour meridian ; and, quite recently, Austria-Hungary has
resolved to be governed by the same meridian. Efforts are
now being made to follow the same course in Germany,
and in other European countries. In North America the
hour zone system has been in general use for six years. In
Japan, Central Europe, Great Britain, United States,
Canada, and Mexico, identity of reckoning prevails, and in
all these countries the hours are struck at the same
moment ; the only difference is in the numbers by which
they are locally known.

" Twenty-four Hour Notation. — The second important
step in regulating the reckoning of time throughout the
world is to abandon the division of the day into anti-
meridian and post-meridian hours, separately numbered,
and to substitute a single series of hours numbered from
0 to 24. This change was resolved upon by the Washing-
ton Conference with respect to the universal day. The old
practice of dividing the day into two sets of twelve hours
has not only no advantage to recommend it, but it has
been found to have positive disadvantages, which have
been brought to prominence within the past generation.
The division of the day into halves doubles the chance of
error. The mis-print or mistake of a single letter a.m. for
p.m., or vice versa, will easily cause inconvenience, loss of
time, possibly loss of property, or loss of life. The twenty-
four hour notation removes all doubt and uncertainty, and
promotes safety. Where it has been adopted in Canada
there is no ambiguity; moreover, the change has been
effected without difficulty and without danger. The hours
denoted by a lower number than twelve are known to
belong absolutely to the first part of the day, and those by a
higher number to the afternoon and evening. The twenty-
four hour notation is strongly recommended by prominent
men in Russia, Germany, Italy, Austria, Belgium, France,
Spain, Great Britain ; and indeed, it may be said, in every
country in Europe. It is brought into daily use on the
great telegraph lines leading from England to Egypt, India,
China, Australia, and South Africa. It is received with
very great favor in America. It has been in use for nearly
four years on 2,354 miles of the Canadian Pacific Railway ;
and for nearly three years on the Canadian Government
Railway, 986 miles m length. The managers and em-
ployees speak of the twenty-four hour notation in the
highest terms of approval. It is the only system in use at
this date north of the forty-ninth parallel, and west of the
eighty-ninth meridian. There is not a province in Canada
where it is not already in use. It has been adopted on the
railways in Nova Scotia, New Brunswick, Prince Edward
Island, Manitoba, Assiniboia, Alberta, British Columbia,
and partly in Quebec and Ontario. So satisfactory are
the results of this new notation that it has been deter-
mined to extend its application, and it is expected that
before long it will be in general use for railway purposes
throughout the Dominion. It has likewise been introduced
in the railway service of China, and it is -not a little re-
markable that one of the oldest Eastern civilisations should,
conjointly with the youngest Western civilisation, set an
example in breaking through the trammels of custom to
inaugurate a reform which every intelligent person believes
to be desirable. There is but one step necessary to secure

October 1, 1891.]

THE WATCHMAKER. JEWELER AND SILVERSMITH.

to Great Britain all the advantages of Universal Time, and
that is the adoption of the twenty-four hour notation.
This one reform concerns the railway system and railway
travellers especially ; and, in a country where all persons
travel more or less, I cannot but think that if English
railway managers were informed as to the ease with which
the change has been introduced in Canada, and the satis-
factory results which have followed, they would speedily
take steps to obtain similar advantages. The letters
received by the Science and Art Department at South
Kensington show that the resolutions of the Washington
Conference are cordially favored by the following impor-
tant bodies and departments, viz. : — 1, Royal Astronomical
Society ; 2, Royal Society ; 3, The Board of Trade ; 4, The
General Post Office ; 5, The Eastern Telegraph Com-
pany ; 6, The Eastern Extension Telegraph Company ;

7, The Eastern and South African Telegraph Company ;

8, The Society of Telegraph Engineers ; 9, The Trinity
House; 10, The India Office; 11, The Colonial Office;
12, The Admiralty. To these may be added the Committee
of Council on Education, and the Board of Visitors of the
Royal Observatory, Greenwich. As the fundamental ob-
jects of the Washington Conference were to remove all
doubt and ambiguity in time-reckoning, to prevent dis-
crepancies, to secure simplicity and introduce uniformity,
it is manifestly important that the changes proposed, sup-
ported at the Conference as they were by the representa-
tives of twenty-five nations, and subsequently looked upon
in so many quarters as in themselves intrinsically desirable,
should, without unnecessary delay, be accepted, and as far
as practicable put in force generally. The first important
step is the selection of hour meridians, and the adoption of
the hour zone system."

I To be continued, j

®fit<

iar

With the name of John Wycherley — a sound so familiar
to many of our ears — we lose the first man who introduced
the interchangeable movement, and many other important
improvements which have added greatly to the superiority
of English work during the last thirty years. Mr. Wycher-
ley was a native of Prescot, where he was apprenticed, his
first master being Mr. Geo. Hewitt, and his last partner
Mr. T. P. Hewitt, who succeeded him when he retired in
1884. He died on the evening of the 5th ult., in his 75th
year, at his residence in Chamber Road, Southport, deeply
mourned by a large circle of fiiends ; for although
not a man to court publicity, he was nevertheless a .
member of the School Board from its inception, and for
forty years an able Methodist lay preacher, class-leader,
and Sunday School superintendent. Prescot churchyard,
on the 10th ult., in the presence of a large gathering of
friends, thus " received all that was mortal " of the original
founder of the Lancashire Watch Company.

A CAUTION.
We have received the following from Mr. J. D. Benson,
10, Hylton Street, Birmingham: — "A short time a^o a
Mr. H. Billings, watchmaker, hailing from Tunbridge
Wells, and late of Sandown, Isle of Wight, purchased
some goods from me, sending, in payment thereof, a postal
order made payable to a third party. Finding the order
not endorsed, I immediately returned it to him for a
proper endorsement. Since then, sad to relate, I have not
had the paper returned nor heard from Mr. Billings. I
may add that the man has disappeared from ' the Pantiles
town,' and although I have spent time and money he cannot
be found."

Flings §fe$/ Qn^ ffoteWorb^y,

The above is an illustration of a
clever device for keeping diamond
earrings in position, recently
brought out by an American firm,
and for which a patent has been
applied. One figure shows the
arrangement open, the other when
it is in the ear and shut ; it is
not only a perfect lock, but is
easily manipulated, leaves plenty
of room for passage through the
ear, and can be made to hold the earring in any position
required. This is a great improvement on the " American
hooks and catches."

Messes. King and Sons, 222 and 224, Goswell Road,
London, have now on view at their show-rooms a complete
series of their novelties for the Christmas trade in Hall-
marked silver and untarnishable plate. Buyers before
placing their orders would do well to inspect the artistic
and novel designs for which this firm is celebrated. W e
give illustrations of three or four of their novelties.

One of the necessities for ladies travelling at the present
time is a convenient curling-lamp and tongs. Our illustra-
tion shows a very compact and useful design made both in
silver and electro-plate, it being a shut-up box containing
spirit-reservoir, lamp, and tongs complete. They are also
made of a smaller size without tongs.

Another of the useful novelties we saw was a case for
the ordinary Eau-de-Cologne bottle, made in plated, and
leather with silver or plated mounts. The following block
will convey a better idea of the design than any descrip-
tion.

We also give an illustration of one of the many patterns
of hand-mirrors they nicke both in silver and plated ; also
a case of fancy leather, with plated mounts, containing
three pairs of scissors, which forms a very useful present
for a lady.

This firm have just issued a new illustrated catalogue,
which they will be glad to send to the trade.

xvii THE WATCHMAKER, JEWELER AND SILVERSMITH. [October 1, 1891.

The Lists of Applications for Shares will open on Tuesday, the 29th day of September, 1891,
and will close on Tuesday, the 6th day of October, 1891.

THE BOLDSMITHS' & GENERAL BURGLARY
INSURANCE ASSOCIATION, Limited.

Incorporated under the Companies' Acts, 1862-1890, whereby the liability of the Shareholders

is limited to the amount unpaid upon their Shares.

REGISTERED CAPITAL - - <£250,000

In 49,800 Shares of £5 each, and 40 Deferred Shares of £25 each.

First Issue of .£101,000, consisting of 40 Deferred Shares of £25 each, which have
been subscribed for and paid in full, and 20,000 Ordinary Shares of £5 each, now

offered for subscription and payable as follows:

5s. on Application ; 5s. on Allotment ; 5s. in Two Months ; and 5s. in Four Months thereafter.

No further call is anticipated.
The Deferred Shares do not rank for dividend until a dividend of £8 per cent, per annum has been paid to the
ordinary shareholders, after which the profits will be divided, one half between the Ordinary Shareholders and the

other half between the Deferred Shareholders.

PROVISIONAL DIRECTORS.

HEEBEKT ATTENBOEOUGH, Esq., Hillside, Crystal Palace Park Koad, Upper Sydenham, S.E.

B. BABNETT, Esq., r319, High Holborn ; and Carr Lane, Hull,— Goldsmith, Pawnbroker, and Fine Art
Dealer.

Capt. V. LOVETT CAMEBON, B.N., C.B.,*D.C.L., 41, Ashley Gardens, Victoria, S.W.

SAME. CHATWOOD, Esq., Lancashire Safe and Lock Works, Bolton; and 76, Newgate Street, E.C.,

Managing Director, Chatwood's Patent Safe and Lock Co., Ltd.
THOS. LAYMAN, Esq., 271 and 273, Borough, S.E., Hon. Sec, Metropolitan Pawnbrokers' Protection Society.
FBEDK. WM. BUSTON, Esq. (Jackson, Buston and Keeson), Eagle Court, Dean Street, High Holborn.

(With power to add two to their number.)

BANKERS.

LONDON AND COUNTY BANKING COMPANY, Ltd., 21, Lombard Street, E.C., and Branches.

SOLICITOR.

JOHN ATTENBOEOUGH, Esq., 16, Ely Place, E.C.

AUDITORS.

Messrs. SEEAE, HASLUCK and CO., 17, Holborn Viaduct.

GENERAL MANAGER & SECRETARY {pro tan.).
J. M. BUCHANAN, Late Chief Superintendent, Mercantile Accident and Guarantee Insurance Co.

OFFICES.

85, Geesham Stbeet, Guildhall, London, E.C.

October 1, 1891] THE WATCHMAKER, JEWELER AND SILVERSMITH. xviii

THE GOLDSMITHS' & GENERAL BURGLARY
INSURANCE ASSOCIATION, Limited.

PROSPECTUS.

This Company is formed for the purpose of Insuring, primarily, the members of the Jewellery,
Pawnbroking, and kindred Trades, as well as ordinary Business Establishments and the Public generally against
losses by Burglary and Housebreaking.

The necessity for some practical form of protection against the depredations of the thieving fraternity
is now universally acknowledged, especially by the Members of the Jewellery and Pawnbroking Trades, and that
such protection cannot better be obtained than by an Insurance Policy is amply evidenced by the large measure
of support accorded to the two Companies already transacting this class of business, although high rates have
been exacted, and vexatious conditions imposed.

This Company, the only one transacting Burglary Insurance alone, will conduct the business on broad
and popular lines at equitable rates, and free from all unnecessary restrictions, the desire of the Directors being
to make Burglary Insurance Policies as universally popular as those for Pire ; and when it is considered that not
less than Seventeen Millions Sterling is paid yearly in the United Kingdom for Fire Insurance, while as yet, the
total of the Burglary Insurance Premiums received by existing Companies is under twenty thousand pounds, it
will be seen that the field for the Association's operations is practically unlimited.

While the Headquarters of the Company will be in London, its operations will cover the whole of the
United Kingdom. It is not proposed for the present to open any Branch Offices, but an efficient staff of non-
salaried agents, supervised direct from the Head Office, will be organised in all important centres. The Directors
also propose to treat Shareholders who introduce business to the Company as Agents, and will allow them the
usual Agency Commission.

It is well known that there is no more lucrative form of investment than Insurance shares, particularly
of Companies such as this established for the benefit of certain trades, interests, or localities, (the average pro-
fits of 11 such offices during the past 6 years being 38 per cent, per annum). From the economical lines upon
when this Company will be conducted, coupled with the moderate cost of incorporation, and the fact that no
promotion money has been or will be paid, the Directors anticipate most satisfactory results. The profits
cannot be accurately determined, but from careful cumulations, based on the most reliable statistics, specially
compiled to date, a steady ten per cent, dividend after the first year appears a moderate estimate.

The Directors have been fortunate in securing, as Manager, the services of Mr. J. M. Buchanan, late
Chief Superintendent of the Mercantile Accident and Guarantee Insurance Company, a gentleman who has
been actively and closely associated with Burglary Insurance since its first introduction, and who is thoroughly
conversant with every detail connected therewith.

The Memorandum and Articles of Association can be seen at the offices of the Company's Solicitor,
Mr. J. Attenborough, 16, Ely Place, Holborn Viaduct, E.C.

The ordinary shares are being offered in the first instance to the Members of the Jewellery and
Pawnbroking Trades only, by whom it is expected they will be entirely taken up. The whole of the paid up
capital, less the costs of incorporation, will be invested, consequently the risk undertaken by the Shareholders is
very slight. Applications for shares should be made on the accompanying form, and forwarded, with deposit, to
the Bankers or Secretary at the office of the Company, No. 85, Gresham Street, Guildhall, E.G., not later than
the 6th of October, 1891, after which date the remaining shares (if any) will be offered to the Public.

It is intended to apply for a quotation on the Stock Exchange in due course.

THE WATCHMAKER, JEWELER AND SILVERSMITH.

[October 1, 1891.

@)obn ehTarrix&on. ©nee More.

II II, ST admiring the horological exhibit at the
" Navalries," I overheard a gentleman seeking
information respecting John Harrison's Chrono-
meter, which I gladly tendered ; and getting into
conversation I soon found another admirer of my hero.
1 therefore volunteered to give him all information I could
respecting the " longitudinarian." The gentleman was the
Vicar of Barrow-on-Humber, the scene, at least, of John's
early boyhood, if not of his birth. Since his return
back to his village he has published some interesting
biographical items respecting Harrison and his family,
which we are sure will interest our readers. We therefore
have much pleasure in giving them in exbenso. It must
of course be borne in mind that they were written, not for
a trade journal, but for a village magazine.

"Barrow cannot boast of having been the birthplace of
any very remarkable man. Nevertheless our village has
developed the genius of at least one, who though perhaps
not born in Barrow, was brought up from very early years
here, and who became famous in his generation and a ;
benefactor of his kind.

Dr. Smiles, in a very interesting volume, Men of Inven-
tion mill Industry (the book is in the Vicar's Room Library) ,
gives a sketch of his life, which is well worthy the attention
of especially young men. If we accept his chronology
(which I think is doubtful) we learn that in the year 1700
there came to Barrow from the village of Foulby, in York-
shire, a man named Henry Harrison, a joiner in the
employ of Sir Rowland Wynne, of Nostel Priory, who at
that time had property in this parish.

Henry brought with him a family of young, children.
Among these- there was a boy named John, then, it is said,
seven years old. It was this John, son of Henry Harrison,
who afterwards became famous in the world. In all prob-
ability he was educated in the village school. What was
the name of the schoolmaster, or what was the character
of the education given, I am not able to say. Village
schools two hundred years ago were not eminent for their
proficiency, and I may safely say that every boy in Barrow
has now a better and cheaper education than John
Harrison.

But John made the best of what he had. No doubt he
was a born mechanic, but there are abundant evidences of
his extreme and untiring industry. From early childhood he
was very fond of machines of all kinds. A watch was always
a delight to him. Indeed he studied the mechanism of
watches and clocks that he soon became the general watch-
mender of the village. He put our parish church clock in
repair and good working order, fie became one of the
bellringers, and was famous as a tuner of church bells.
Very probably our church bells are indebted for the tune-
fulness for which they are famed to the skill and industry
of John Harrison. His repute was recognised in Hull, for
the vicar and churchwardens of the parish church there
employed him to put the bells, which are described as
having been " harsh and disagreeable," into his hands ;
and he succeeded in making them " entirely melodious."
When I was visiting in Masham, in Yorkshire, a little while
ago, I was told that the bells of the church were inscribed
" James Harrison, Bell Founder." This was the brother
of John.

John Harrison was also a singer and a musician. He
trained the parish choir, and brought it to a high state of
perfection. He invented a curious monochord, which was
remarkably accurate in its mechanism. Indeed he seems
to have been the useful man of the village. Also in St.
George's, Doncaster, there was a new set of chimes pro-
cured in 1755. The following copy of the receipt for the
same has been sent me. " May 18th, 1755. Reed, then
of Mr. John Beale, Thirtey-five Pounds for makeing a new
set of chimes. In full by me, Jas. Harrison."

But he was chiefly interested in clocks. He studied their
mechanism and struck out new inventions for overcoming
friction and other impediments in the way of exact time-
keeping. He found that metals expand and contract in
different temperatures, and that one metal expands more
than another. This of course caused considerable inaccuracy
in timekeeping, and he set himself to overcome it. Being
a joiner he worked in wood, and being a villager he had to
make his own tools, overcoming difficulties and battling
bravely against obstacles which had baffled the skill of
ages. He had many failures, but these only spurred him
on to greater diligence. At the age of twenty-two he
produced a clock, which was so accurately constructed that
it is going, I believe, this very day.

Over the clock there is the following inscription.

Original Eight-day Clock.

" This clock was made- at Barrow, Lincolnshire, in the
year 1715, by John Harrison, celebrated as the maker of a
Nautical Timepiece or Chronometer which gained the reward
of £20,000 offered by the Board of Longitude, A.D. 1767."

" This clock strikes the hour, indicates the day of the
month, and with one exception (the escapement)' the wheels
are entirely made of wood. Presented by Mr. C. Empring-
ham, Brigg, Lincolnshire."

I had the pleasure of seeing this clock going, on the 29th
September, 1887. I may mention that Mr. Bryan Cooper,
our village antiquary, possesses a clock, which he bought
at the sale of the furniture of the late Mr. George Marris,
which is constructed entirely of wood, and is believed to be
one of Mr. Harrison's clocks.

Mention is made in the inscription of a reward of
£20,000. This was an immense prize, indeed it is the
largest ever offered by any Government for any invention
whatever. We may ask, what was the reason why so
splendid a reward was given for a clock that would keep
time accurately at sea as well as on land ?

At that time this was quite impossible. In order to
know this, the captain must find out the exact degrees of
latitude and longitude of the spot on the ocean on which
his vessel is at a particular moment.

The latitude, you understand, is the point North and
South of the Equator. This could be ascertained by
observations of the sun, and by instruments which had
already been invented.

But the difficulty was with the longitude, i.e., the point
East or West of any meridian. Longitude, with us, is calcu-
lated from Greenwich, as you will see by a map. When the
sun has reached its highest point above the horizon it is
noon wherever we may be. The sun goes round the earth,
as we say, in twenty-four hours ; and as the distance round
the earth is divided into 360 degrees, it is clear that the
sun passes over fifteen degrees in every hour. If it is noon
at Greenwich when the ship sails, she can tell how far she
has sailed east or west at any time if she knows the exact
time at Greenwich at that moment. The difference be-
tween Greenwich time and the ship's time is the ship's
longitude.

They knew how to find out the ship's time in Harrison's
day by observing the height of the sun, but they did not
know how to ascertain what the time was at Greenwich at
the same moment. In other words, they had no absolutely
correct timekeeper. An error of one minute in the time-
keeper would be an error of fifteen miles, or more accu-
rately, fifteen-sixtieths of a degree, in their longitude. We
can easily see that it was quite impossible to calculate the
position of the ship within many miles. She might be
upon well-known rocks when she was supposed to be in
mid-ocean. This was a great hindrance to commerce,
especially in the days when there were only sailing vessels,
and it was the cause of great destruction of life.

(To be continued,)

October 1, 1891.]

THE WATCHMAKER, JEWELER AND SILVERSMITH.

i^an^om 5i> ri effete.

It is said in America that since M. Berthier has painted
the portrait of the Prince of Wales, with a gold bracelet
showing, the question is being brought forward as to
whether men should, or should not, indulge in this
practice. Many being of the former opinion are following
the example set by the Royal brothers.

A Frenchman has recently made a very sensitive metallic
thermometer, in which the expansion of two metals is
indicated on a dial.

Her Majesty's Commissioners for the Exhibition of
1851 have offered nominations to Scholarships of the value
of £150, tenable for two years, in subjects important to the
industries of the country. When will our trade take ad-
vantage of this?

The fascinating and absorbing address of the President
of the British Association cannot fail to have an influence
upon some branches of our trades, and will make many
anxious to possess telescopes who are not provided with
one, or induce those who have such an instrument to take
a step further, and add a spectroscope ; whilst the magic
art of photography will commend itself to many minds
who previously had not thought of going in for it. It is
thus highly probable that numerous instruments will be
sold through the influence of this address.

It is by no means an uncommon thing for a jeweler to
be sent to by some well-known person for a selection of
jewelry on appro., all of which is returned the next
morning, some of them bearing strong indications of much
handling, having in fact been worn at a ball or party that
has intervened. A case once came under our notice, where
a family had often done this, and on the eve of an eventful
ball sent again to the jeweler, who, judging what it was
required for, sent a very fine necklace, which madam
donned as usual for the occasion. Judge her surprise, as
she was awaiting her turn in the dance, at hearing the well
known voice of the jeweler uttering in suppressed tones
beside her, "I am very glad, madam, you have decided
upon that necklace, as it is the finest I had in stock."
Needless to say madam never applied for jewelry on
appro, again. A similar case is reported to us of an
optician, to whom a local dignity applied for a large selec-
tion of reading glasses. Much to the astonishment of the
optician, however, none were kept, although they had been
evidently very much handled. The mystery, however, was
solved a few days after, when a local paper reported a grand
reception which had been held by the ought-to-have-been
customer, pointing out the great kindness and forethought
of the host in providing a large number of magnifying
glasses for the use of visitors in viewing the objects d'art.

A jeweler on Rhode Island has an arrangement by
winch the opening of his door winds the clock, so that he
says his clock " never wants winding."

The Buffalo Express says : " The inventor of the Water-
bury watch has gone to eternity — the only place where
there is time to wind a Waterbury watch."

The sales of old silver continue. A remarkable piece
was put up recently at Christie's, in the form of an
immense oval cistern, dated 1667, and weighing no less than
l,068oz. It realized over two guineas an ounce.

In Russia another series of experiments have been
carried on by Prof. Mendeleeff upon the variation of the
density of water at different temperatures, which go to
show that calculations previously made were not so exact
as they might have been. He says, " In the case of water
we have begun to understand more clearly the influence of
heat upon densities and volumes, and I believe that with
the help of water we may expect some further progress in
the study of the influence of heating upon matter."

The Opera Glass Supply Co., which ig in operation in a
dozen or so of the theatres, declared its first dividend at
6 per cent.

-: The export trade of the Black Forest industry to Great
Britain during the year 1890 is described as having been
extremely active, though some manufacturers concluded
the year with stocks on hand even larger than usual.
Cheap and inferior qualities seem to have been less in
demand than formerly. With the development of the
American system of manufacturing watches and clocks in
' the Black Forest, its industry is likely to become an
increasingly strong competitor in the English markets.

Despite all efforts there appears to be something which
prevents perfect compensation, even when recognised laws
are rigidly adhered to. For a long time it has been felt
that some of our most important data require verification.
With this object in view Prof. Cornu and M. Bailie have
been making a series of experiments connected with the
mean density of the earth. Their apparatus is funda-
mentally the same as was employed by Cavendish, but up
to the present they have only succeeded in improving and
rendering each part of the apparatus more sensitive and
less liable to error, although they hope to be able soon to
arrive at a definite result for the constant they are deter-
mining.

American jewelers are fully aware of the value of adver-
tising, and lose no opportunity of employing it as a means
of becoming known. The other day when a new jewelry
store was opened in Akron, Ohio, tickets were issued to
the visitors, and a lady's gold watch presented to the fortu-
nate holder of Number 4,688. Another jeweler made him-
self widely known by sending up a balloon and dropping
from it a ticket entitling the finder to a similar timepiece.

After occupying a leading position in Liverpool for more
than a century, Messrs. Roskell and Co., the well-known
watch manufacturers and jewelers, 21, Church Street, are
retiring from business, and their premises have been
acquired for other purposes.

The fascinating and absorbing address of the President
of the British Association cannot fail to have an influence
upon some branches of our trades, and will make many
anxious to possess telescopes, who are not provided with
one, or induce those who have such an instrument to take
a step further, and add a spectroscope; whilst the magic
art of photography will commend itself to many minds
which previously had not thought of going in for it. It is
thus highly probable that numerous instruments will be
sold through the influence of this address. Many have
already experienced this, from a whole edition of " Ball's
Study of the Heavens," to small microscopes.

We regret that the premises of Mr. H. Crouch, 66,
Barbican, were very seriously damaged by fire just as we
were going to press with our last issue ; no less than five
engines were speedily on the spot, which kept the fire from
rising to the upper part of the building. Mr. Crouch's
great and invaluable improvements in microscopes are too
well known by our readers to require a comment from us.
We think we have seen everything that has been brought
out up to the present, and have recently invested in one of
his instruments for petrological research, which perhaps is
the best kind of argument that can be adduced in their
favor. The adjoining premises of Messrs. Orme and Co.
were also damaged.

A list of goods likely to meet with a ready sale at the
Chicago Exhibition has been compiled by a secretary to
the British Legation, which includes porcelain (Minton,
Derby, and Wedgwood), cut glass, cutlery, jewelry, gold
and silver work, and fine art in metals.

Another subscriber would like to know from members of
the trade what books they have found most useful in the
optical branch of their business.

«0

THE WATCHMAKER, JEWELER AND SILVERSMITH.

[October 1, 1891.

(§iofc}i3>miffi<& anil ^ecoefenS' tin^tifuflon.*

\|/HE 129th half-yearly general meeting of the sub-
&lL9 scribers to the Goldsmiths' and Jewelers' Annuity
and Asylum Institution was held on Thursday even-
ing, August 27th, at the Horological Institute, North-
ampton Square, Mr. C. Robinson presiding. The report
for the past half-year stated that the result of a theatrical
benefit which took place at the Grand Theatre in February
last was an addition to the funds of the institution of
£33 13s. lid. It would, the committee stated, be within
the recollection of the subscribers that at the last half-
yearly meeting a protest was made against the election of
T. W. Bocock, upon the grounds that the committee had
accepted as a candidate an unqualified person, inasmuch as
he was over age when he commenced to contribute to the
funds, but the committee resolved at the time to let his
case be determined by the subscribers. He was elected
and received his monthly instalments in due course, and
the committee had now to state that at the special general
meeting called to declare the election null and void, he was
fully confirmed in his position as an annuitant. To prevent
a recurrence of such a question, and to place beyond doubt
what the committee conceived to be the duty of the insti-
tution towards the necessitous members of the trade, and
to raise it to a higher ideal, an alteration of the rule bear-
ing upon the matter was to be proposed. The statement
of accounts showed that the sum of £10,287 9s. Id. was
invested in consols ; the sum of £56 14s. 8^d. was due from
the benefit account ; and there was a balance in hand of
£688 10s. 5d. On the motion of Mr. Bennett, seconded
by Mr. Pannett, the report was adopted. The election of
officers was then proceeded with. Major G. Lambert,
F.S.A., was re-elected president; and Mr. H. T. Smith,
manager of the Islington branch of the London and
County Bank, treasurer. Mr. Dury moved an alteration in
Rule v., increasing the age at which male candidates
should be eligible for election by five years. He proposed
that the rule should read thus : ' ' That male candidates
shall be eligible for annuity and asylum at fifty-five years
of age ; they must be of good character, and have sub-
scribed to the funds for at least five years annually, or, if
life subscribers, such life subscription must have been paid
five years previous to application for the benefits of the
institution." In moving the resolution, Mr. Dury said his
object was to avoid, if possible, any misunderstanding as
to the age at which male annuitants were eligible. In the
interests of the institution he asked the meeting to assent
to the amendment in the rules. Mr. Picard seconded the
resolution. Mr. Barber thought that after the action of
the members in electing Mr. Bocock as an annuitant, not-
withstanding the fact of his being over the age, it was quite
unnecessary to alter the rules. Dissatisfaction with the
proposal was also expressed by several other gentlemen,
who thought that such an alteration as that proposed
would result in future candidates for the benefits being all
old men who had subscribed but for a short time to the
institution. The secretary (Mr. Innocent) said that pre-
vious elections had shown that the longest subscribers
received the largest number of votes. On a show of hands,
there were for the amendment, 54 ; against, 47. Amid a
scene of considerable confusion a division was claimed and
taken, with the result that the motion was declared to be
lost by 72 to 62. Prior to the meeting there was an elec-
tion of three annuitants and one asylum inmate.

- We regret that this and the following report were unavoidably left out from
our last number. But, after all, we believe we are always more willing, and evffli
anxious, to publish accounts of meetings of the various charities than the
secretaries are to send us accounts, or even notifications of their meetings. We
are in a position to saj that there are very many members of the trade who would
only be too glad to join the various institutions, if they knew of their existence.
We can only say. that had the respective secretaries been connected with the
tnJvTittjpment and maintenance of the most popular concerns in the world they
would have learned the fact that advertisement is the source from which new
blood spring s.

ig| N the same day as the above the annual dinner was given

by the Clockmakers' Company, from the proceeds of
a fund left by the late Mr. William Rowlands, a
member of the Court of Assistants, to be expended in
terms of the deed of gift for the benefit of the Clock and
Watchmakers' Asylum. The chair was taken by Mr.
Mullett, the Beadle of the company, and after an excellent
repast, the Chairman proposed the usual loyal and patri-
otic toasts, which were duly honored.

The Chairman said he was glad to be again in the
position that he had filled for something like eighteen
years, and nothing gave him more pleasure than to meet
so many old friends around him. He proposed " Success
and Prosperity to the Clock and Watchmakers' Asylum,"
which was most heartily responded to by all present, each
inmate having previously received the sum of £1.

Mr. Taylor (secretary) said that he felt the greatest pleasure
in being amongst them again upon that occasion, for he
thought that with only one exception it would make his
eighteenth appearance amongst them on this anniversary
of their late noble patron of the Clockmakers' Company
(Mr. William Rowlands). While he was not yet devoid of
hope, he had known the time when it was some difficulty
to get applications for election to the asylum ; but he re-
gretted now to say that there were no less than seven
applications from persons anxious to become inmates of
this institution. He once more wished to impress upon the
younger branches of the trade the necessity of becoming
subscribers to the funds of the asylum, so that they might
feel that, when the time did arrive, they had done some-
thing in the days of their youth to render themselves
worthy candidates for admission. He proposed " the
Health of the Chairman."

The Chairman said, in coming once more amongst them,
for the eighteenth time, as their chairman and representa-
tive of the Clockmakers' Company, he could assure them
that he felt as much pleasure in seeing them as the inmates
did him, and he only wished that he could come amongst
them a little oftener to disburse the gifts of the Clock-
makers' Company. He regretted to state that several
pensions of the Clockmakers' Company to freemen of the
company, could not be disbursed to many applicants who
had served their apprenticeship to freemen, but who had
neglected to take up their freedom. He was certain that
the Clockmakers' Company were always open to do what
they could, and that in no instance was a case deserving of
charity brought before them but it always received atten-
tion, and in most cases relief.

Other toasts followed. The evening's proceedings were
interspersed with a number of songs, solos, piano-duets,
etc., and the singing of " Auld Lang Syne" concluded
the business.

^$1=^ •

Siiirrrjing^am <J\Ma\/ ©j?{?iee.

The Birmingham Assay Master, in his report for the
year ended 30th June, 1891, makes the following returns : —

Gold wares assayed aud marked Ounces

Gold wares assayed and broken Ounces

Silver wares assayed and marked ...Ounces
Silver wares assayed and broken ...Ounces
Number of gold and silver wares entered

for assaying

Number of assays made

Amount of plate duty collected

122,743

1,024

e 775,901

1,438

3,347,974
109,700
£24,305

1S89.

158,767

1,635

e 904,719

1,937

4,292,325
129,009
£30,574

1890.

193,426

2,009

1,098,250

1,804

5,631,188

147,025

/' £29,278

1891.

230,136

2,324

1,240,982

2,788

6,183,045
103,170

"(<') January 1st, 1888, "The Merchandise Marks Act"
came into force, occasioning a reduction of 88,122 ounces
of foreign silver watch cases as compared with the cor-
responding half-year of 1887. In 1889 no foreign silver
watch eases were entered, as against 193,857 ounces in the
year ended June 30th, 1887.

(/') For ten months ending 30th April, when the duty
was abolished by the Budget Act of 1890.

OCTOBEE 1, 1891.]

THE WATCHMAKEB, JEWELEE AND SILVEESMITH.

<Sn anc[ @ut t^e d>ourt$.

James Faerell Alexander lias been committed for trial
on the charge of obtaining jewelry to the value of £43 by
false pretences from G. H. De la Cour, jeweler, Chatham,
by representing himself as belonging to the firm of Messrs.
Alexander Bros., 16, Hatton Garden.

William Scott, a waiter belonging to Penicuik, was
recently engaged as a waiter for the evening at Dalhousie
Castle, and after his departure sundry articles of jewelry
were missing. He was traced to his lodgings in Penicuik,
and upon him were found a diamond ring and a hairpin,
part of the proceeds of the robbery. He was committed
for trial.

William Coopee has been committed for trial on the
charge of stealing jewelry to the value of £66 from the
Science and Art Department, South Kensington. He was
found in the museum about five o'clock one morning by a
constable. A sharp encounter ensued. The prisoner broke
through a window, and so got out of the building, but was
ultimately captured by another constable.

Thomas Allen, a guard on the L. and N. W. Eailway,
through the instrumentality of a pawnbroker, has been
apprehended and charged with stealing jewelry from brake,
vans of trains. For some months past the company has
received complaints of losses of jewelry, and other proper-
ties, from trunks and portmanteaus conveyed in the guard's
van of trains with which the prisoner travelled.

Ax incorrigible young rascal, well named Boniface, was
recently brought up before Sir Andrew Lusk, charged with
being in the illegal possession of three watches which had
been stolen from a shop in King William Street. A police
officer, to whom the face of Boniface was familiar, having
seen him enter a jobbing jeweler's in St. Luke's, followed
him in, and asked him if he had anything to sell. At this
moment he held a large Waterbury in his hand, which he
offered to the officer if he would let him go. When at the
station two other watches were found upon him. As the
young gentleman had only just been released from six
months' imprisonment, it is only right that he should be
prevented from following the course he has formerly
pursued for a long time to come.

John Collixgs, watchmaker, Hove, was committed for
trial for stealing four watches entrusted to him to repair.

At Dewsbury (West Biding) Police Court, William Henry
Wilson, nineteen, was sent to prison with three months'
hard labor for stealing two silver watches and two silver
cases of the value of £5 15s. from his late employer, Cal-
verly Westerman, Chapel Hill, Morley.

A clevee capture was recently made in Adelaide, it
appears, a boy having noticed two men digging at the
foot of a tree on the east park lands, and planting some-
thing, gave information to the police, who, upon examina-
tion of the spot, found three tins which contained jewelry,
etc., to the amount of £100, also a number of skeleton
keys. The police took the property and put the tins back,
setting a watch over the spot. Subsequently two men,
Thomas Mathews and William Bartram, alias George
Collins, were arrested while in the act of making off with
the empty tins. The men resisted, but after a struggle
they were secured and locked up. The jewelry proved to
be some of the property stolen from the houses which have
lately been robbed near the city.

Most people will be at a loss to understand the verdict
obtained for Bryce Wright, for pawning £400 worth of
jewelry, the property of Miss Lloyd, of Acton, and to
which he pleaded guilty ; being only bound over on his
own recognizances for £10 to come up for judgment if
called upon.

Albert Isaacs, twenty-six, of 87, Commercial Eoad, Stam-
ford Street, Blackfriars, described as a carpenter, was charged
before Mr. Alderman Cowan with stealing, from No. 13;

Gresham Street, a gold albert chain, value £9 lis. 6d., by
means of a trick. Mr. C. Sweetenburg said he traded with
a partner as Langton and Co., 13, Gresham Street. At
twenty to one o'clock on Monday afternoon the prisoner
entered the shop and said he wished to see some gold
chains. Witness showed him some. He held them up,
and selected the best. He then laid a chain on the counter,
and put down half-a-crown, stating that he would return in
half-an-hour. Witness understood the 2s. 6d. was a de-
posit. When he took up the chain he at once discovered
that it was light, and as the prisoner was nearing the door
he called upon him to stop. He did not, but commenced
running. Witness went after him, and saw him appre-
hended by Detective Eoper. The chain produced was the
property of his firm. The metal chain left by the prisoner
was the same pattern as the one he selected, but was worth-
less. The Alderman: Any questions? Prisoner: No, sir;
it is quite true what he says. Detective Eoper asked that
the prisoner might be remanded, as there were other cases
of a similar nature against him. The Alderman remanded
the accused for a week.

At the Central Criminal Court, on Sept.. 18th, Julius
Spilzer, twenty-seven, a diamond broker, was indicted for
obtaining £3,500 worth of diamonds by false pretences
from Mr. Lippman Krobell, a diamond broker, 24, Hatton
Garden. Prosecutor stated that on July 20 prisoner, whom
he had known for the last twelve months, called upon him,
and said, " I have been commissioned by an Australian
shipping house, Hoffnung and Co., to show them about 200
carats of diamond melee." He (prisoner) promised to
bring the diamonds back at once if they were not sold.
There were some other negotiations during the day, but
the prisoner did not return with the diamonds, and in the
evening he (prosecutor) went in search of him, finding him
eventually at 32, Adolphus Eoad, Finsbury Park. Prisoner
then said he had lost his pocket-book which contained the
diamonds in the Tottenham Court Eoad. He said he was
riding in an omnibus, but did not discover the loss until
five o'clock. The prosecutor remained with prisoner all
night in the hope of inducing him to tell him what had
become of the diamonds, as he did not believe that he had
lost them in the way he stated. A number of witnesses
were called with the object of showing that the prisoner's
story as to the loss of the . diamonds was but a part of
the conspiracy in which he had been engaged for the
purpose of defrauding the prosecutor of his property. It
appeared that the prisoner had obtained about £80 worth
of diamonds the same day from a broker named John
Eatzon, carrying on business in the Gray's Inn Eoad, and
he stated that he lost these diamonds at the same time.
The defence was that the prisoner lost the diamonds in
the way stated. Several witnesses were called to prove
that he reported the loss to the police at the Moor Lane
Station, but in cross-examination the officer who took the
information admitted that he doubted the story told him,
and asked the prisoner why he had not gone to the nearest
police-station instead of coming into the City. Prisoner
replied, " I thought I might find them on the way." The
prisoner's brother in cross-examination admitted that the
Post Office authorities had refused to deliver a valuable
parcel of diamonds obtained by a member of the family
from abroad, and also that a warrant was out against a
member of the family who was now in America for matters
arising out of a diamond transaction. The Eecorder hav-
ing summed up the case the jury found the prisoner guilty.
Mr. Besley applied that sentence might be postponed
until next sessions to give the prisoner an opportunity of
voluntarily restoring the property. Sentence was post-
poned.

At the Blackburn Borough Police Court, Charles Taylor
41, watchmaker, was sent to jail for three months for
pawning watches and rings left with him to repair. At
Bolton, a similar case was sent to trial.

THE WATCHMAKER, JEWELER AND SILVERSMITH.

[October 1, 1891.

^fPuAfrafeSL Snve afloat ftecoriL

Pliers. — Walter J. Monteith, Albany, Oregon.

The improved pliers composed of pivoted jaw-levers hav-
ing shanks which are curved inwardly in opposite directions
and the pivoted lever-handles whose shorter arms are
curved outward and oppositely and pivoted to the shanks
of said jaw-levers, as shown and described, to operate as
specified.

Device for Securing Watch Hands to Cards. —

Nathan P. Mulloy, Waltham, Mass., assignor to the
American Waltham Watch Company, same place.

II tJ

i^Esa

A card having a series of round holes and a series of watch
hands having their annular shoulders fitted therein, in
combination with a continuous metallic strip located on
the back of the card and having a series of prongs extend-
ing through the card and bent over the hands.

Cutting Pliers, — Charles Boecker, New York, N. Y.

A pair of cut nippers having one part socketed through
the other and adapted to be put together and separated by
a longitudinal movement, in combination with each other
and with a femovable pivot, C, and a removable backing
pin, D, engaged in a concentric groove, b, arranged for
joint operation.

Watch Movement Box, — Harrie E. Duncan, Newton -
ville, Mass., assignor to the American Waltham Watch
Company, of Massachusetts.

The combination, with a watch movement box, of a cover
having on its inside an annular hollow ridge, said ridge
forming a yielding shoulder adapted to bear upon the edge
of the dial of a watch movement packed in said box.

Circuit-Closer for Clocks. — Henry A. Chase
Boston, Mass.

In a circuit-controlling device for time mechanism con-
sisting of two independent members, the combination, with
one member, of the second member
provided with a lug, a motor me-
chanism to move said second mem-
ber, a locking device for said second
member, provided with two detents
out of line with each other, and an in-
dependent motor mechanism to operate
said" locking device to disengage one
detent from the lug and engage the
second detent with the lug and there-
after to disengage the second detent
from the lug, substantially as and for
the purpose specified.

APPLICATIONS FOR PATENTS.

Expressly compiled and contributed for this Journal by Messrs. W. P. Thompson and
Co., FF.C.S., HM.I.M.E., Patent Agents, 6, Bank Street, Manchest r; 6, Lord Street,
Liverpool ; and 323, High Holborn, Londo i, W.O.

13,238.

13,239.

13,845.

13,129.
13,732.
13,670.

13,979.

14,014.

14,166.

14,259.

14,282.
14,459.

14,463.

14,672.

14,872.

14,943.

— A. J. Needham, H. C. Needham, and W. C. Needham,
London, " Improvements in watches." Dated 5th
August, 1891.

— A. J. Needham, H. C. Needham, and W. C. Needham,
London, " Pocket watch stands, also combination watch
stands." Dated 5th August, 1891.

— E. Bateman, Birmingham, " Improvements in the
fastenings of scarf slides, earrings, solitaires, links, and
other such articles." Dated 17th August, 1891.

— W. J. F. Gordon, Ontario, " Gravity door bell." Dated
4th August, 1891.

— 0. Thost and H. Richter, London, " Improvements in
musical boxes." Dated 14th August, 1891.

—The London Metallurgical Company, Ltd., and S. 0.
Cowper-Coles, London, " Improvements in coating or
plating metals and metallic articles, applicable also for
the manufacture of bullets." Dated 13th August, 1891.

— F. B. Baker, Birmingham, " Improvements in the
manufacture of ink-pots, biscuit-boxes, cruets, jams,
jellies, butters, and the like." Dated 19th August, 1891.

— W. B. Fotherham, London, " An Improvement in
and connected with neckties, scarves, and the like."
Dated 19th August, 1891.

—J. Bach, London, " Improvements in the construction
of optical instruments." Dated 20th August, 1891.

— S. Beefier, Sheffield, " Mercurial compensation pen-
dulum for clocks."

—A. Clarke, London, " Improvement in watch-keys."

— H. Cliff, Rochdale, " A combination watch-key
calendar and pendant."

— T. Masters, Liverpool, "Improvements in watch and
clock escapements."

— W. Mathews, and W. G. Bennett, Coventry, " thief-
proof swivel bow for watches."

— W. C. Lowden, Newcastle-on-Tyne, " Improved dust-
cover for watches."

—A. G. Purfield, Cleckheaton, " Improved watch pro-
tector."

jk ^.ich ^ilvef^ Vein.

News from Colorado states that a very rich silver vein
has been struck in the Pomeroy Mountains, near Caribou,
which promises to be of extraordinary value.

The gold crushings
amounted to 54,920.

on the Witwatersrand for July

We should advise our readers, who would like to know
the truth about diamonds and gold in South Africa, not
to take Lord Randolph Churchill's letters for more than
they are worth.

October 1, 1891.]

THE WATCHMAKER, JEWELER AND SILVERSMITH.

Bankruptcy Record.

Bradley, Samuel, and Co. (Samuel Bradley), 23, Park Avenue,
Handsworth, and 27, Frederick Street, Birmingham, Whole-
sale Jeweler. First meeting: Whitehall Chambers, 25,
Colmore Bow, Birmingham, Sept. 15. Public Examina-
tion : C.C., Birmingham, Oct. 2.

David, J.
Little and Co. ...
Thalmann and Co. ...
Abrahall and Co.
Cos Bros.

Cox, W. F

Glover, J. G

Griffin, John ...

Parkes, A. E

Payton, F. W

Beading and Lee ...

Cohen, P

Lindon and Co.

Sown, R.

Fully Secured Creditors

London

Bieme
Birmingham

Coventry

£ s. d.

34 0 0

24 0 0
29 0 0
55 0 0

119 0 0

20 0 0

25 0 0
62 0 0
19 0 0
40 0 0

21 0 0
15 0 0

22 0 0
70 0 0

White, Eliza, Egyptian House, 31, Terrace Road, Aberystwith,
Lapidary and Jeweler.

Wild and Co

Aberystwith Gas Company
Harries, T. D.

Peake, R

Wemyss, W. H.
Loneridge Bros.
Bevington, —

Russell, T

Ritter, —
Bankers' Claim,

London
Aberystwith

£ s. d.

86 0 0

13 0 0

10 0 0

12 0 0

54 0 0

50 0 0

10 0 0

24 0 0

Powell,

... Birmingham

;.. ... Hanley

...Haverfordwest

Oberstein 157 0 0

10 0 0

Preferential Creditor.

West Bromwich 16 " 0 0

Young, George Herbert, 129, Somers Road, Southsea, Watch-
maker and Jeweler. First meeting : Official Receiver's,
Portsmouth, Sept. 14. Public Examination : Court House,
Portsmouth, Sept. 16.

Coope, H. J., and Co., Limited

Lawrence, Cohen, and Co. ...

Laveredge, S., and Sons

Potter, W., and Sons

Unna, H. A. ...

Bash, P., and Co.

West, J. B

London

Birmingham

Portsea

Maurice, David, 2, Maxilla Gardens,
Jeweler.

Maurice, R

Werner, S

Appleby and Co.

Cox, J. H. and S. J. ...

Evans and Sons

Goldsmid, M. J

Griffiths, H., and Sons
Johnstone and Co.

Nevill, Rd

Payton and Sons
Pearce and Thompson
Reading and Sons ...

Tandav and Rudge ...

Whitehouse, G. W

Walton, G. W., and Co

Bankers' Claims

Creditors under i'30

Notting Hill, London, W.,

London 300 0

33 0

Birmingham 279 15

318 9

43 15

55 3

148 1

47 16
174 9

50 12

43 12
211 17 11

62 2 0

85 17 0
158 13 1

32 13 0

Fully Secured Creditors.

Saunderson, — ... London 94 0 0

Newman, — ... „ 55 10 0

Corsbie, —
Waller, -
Thomson,—
Marchant,— ...
Smith, G.
Liabilities on Bills

(Not expected to rank.)

363 6 6

196 10 0

599 5 0

12 0 0

32 0 0

81 12 2

Rosenberg, P. M., and Co., 17, 18, and 19, Manchester Road,
Bradford, Jeweler.

Lang, Jonas, and Co.

Perrier, M. A

Rosenberg, C. J.
Rosenberg, E., and Co.

Role, J

Ashford, H. W., and Co. .

Oliver, W

Gregory, William, and Sons
Bankers' Claims
Creditors under ±13 ...

London

>irmingham

Merrington

500

Sheffield

216

...

Clarke, Philip Wright (H. W. Clarke and Co.), 1, Lowther
Road, Liverpool Road, Islington, and 103, Hatton Garden,
London, E.C., Jeweler. Receiving Order : Sept. 7.
Adjudication : Sept. 11.

282 9 10

Deeds of Arrangement.

Myers, Jacob, and Sons, 189, Warstone Lane, Birmingham,
Jewelers' Factors. Partners : Juliana Myers, 277, Monu-
ment Road, Birmingham, and David Joshua Myers, 278,
Monument Road, Birmingham. Trustee : Walter Best, 12,
Northampton Street, Birmingham, Manufacturing Jeweler.
Composition of 10s. in the £, payable by five equal instal-
ments at 4, 6, 9, 12, and 15 months, from August 1st, 1891,
the last instalment to be secured. Dated September 14th ;
filed September 15th ; unsecured liabilities ±'3,865 12s, 8d. ;
net assets ±'2,281 14s.

Robins and Appleton ...

Antrobus, A. ...

Ashford, H. W., and Co. ...

Ashford, J., and Son

Abrahall, M. J., and Co.
Baker, E., and Son ...
Bragg, C. B., and Co.
Coley Brothers...
Carter and Pettifer
Durban and Co.
Freeman, J., and Son
Hollis and Newman ...
Hyde, H., and Son ...
Hunt, — -

Johnston, G. H, and Co.
Johnson, J. T.
Knight, Joseph
Loveridge, G., and Co.
Levi and Solomon

Levetus, E. M

Nock and Sanders
Nathan Brothers
Pearse and Thompson

Payton, F. W

Paterson, W. E., and Co. ...
Payton, C, and Sons ...
Reading, J., and Sons
Robins and McHewan
Sanders Brothers and Greaves
Spiers, D. and L.
Swain, James ...
Trevett, E. T., and Sons
Thomason, J., and Nephews...
Thorneywork, W.

Pale, W., and Sons

Wheway, F

Wakefield, R. and J

Walton, G. and Co

Whitehouse, E.

£ s. d.

London

317 1 0

Birmingham

104 11 0

J»

101 13 6

108 8 6

14 0 0

34 5 2

30 9 6

30 16 5

»j

24 8 7

19 0 0

37 3 10

127 1 6

41 2 6

10 0 0

41 7 1

) j

22 13 6

92 4 5

13 9 7

78 6 0

32 1 8

20 3 10

16 15 2

53 13 2

27 19 4

27 0 2

171 3 7

j j

75 2 4

44 11 0

54 4 0

56 6 4

18 8 1

22 8 10

14 8 9

30 18 7

20 18 0

10 3 5

142 19 3

25 13 0

14 17 4

THE WATCHMAKER, JEWELER AND SILVERSMITH.

[October 1, 1891.

Myers, Mrs. David Joshua iTrastees) of

P.aterson, W. E., and Co.

Mj ers, Joseph...

Bremer, A. ... . ... ... ' .

Devbnport, W

Smith. J., and Co

Bankers' Claims

450 0 0

10 3

Manchester

80 10

150 0

12 10

... ...

11 8

861 11

"Wilkinson and Co., 30, Church Street, Blackpool, Jewelers.
Partners : Henry Charles Wormall and Tattersall Wilkin-
son, both of 21, George Street, Blackpool. Composition of
5s. 3d. in the £', payable forthwith. Secured creditors,
£139 15s. 9d. Dated September 3rd; filed September 4th ;
unsecured liabilities, £'694 4s. 3d. ; assets, £'184 12s. Od.

£ s. d.

Faudel, Phillips, and Sons ..

London

Bethell and Nicole

Reynolds, E., and Co.

• ... ,,

Daltrey and Co.

Max. Emmanuel

. ... ,,

Sanderson and Young

... ,,

Sharp and Green

... Birmingham

Jones, Henry ...

• ... ,,

Green, G. ...

. ... ,,

Blakemore, H. H

Plant Brothers

Burslem

Richardson, Dr.

Blackpool

Whittaker, James

■ ... ,,

Smith, J. L

... ,,

138

French, B

Glasgow

Barder, A

... Manchester

Wells, H. G

. ... ,,

Bolez, J

Wright, L. J

• ." M

Walton and Co.

N ewton-le - Willows

Westall, Richardson

, ... Sheffield

GaUimore, William, and Co...

Smith, G

... ,,

Batt, John

Unsecured Liabilities

694

Estimated Net Assets

184

Secured Creditors ,

139

Dales, Charles, 5, Park Terrace, Westbourne, Bournemouth,
Jeweler, Watchmaker and Optician. Composition of 9s.
in the £, payable by four equal instalments, on September
26th, December 26th, 1891, March 26th, and June 26th,
1892, secured by a guarantor. Secured creditors £68.
Dated September 3rd ; filed September 9th ; unsecured
liabilities £1,284 2s. lOd. ; net assets £660.

£ s. d.

Smith, J., and Sons

London

Williamson, Henry

... ,,

Houghton, George, and Son...

... ,,

Lawrence, Cohen, and Co. ...

... ,,

Culver, George ...

Marion and Co.

Simmons and Fredericks

Unna, H. A. ...

... ,,

Paterson and Cooper...

... ,,

Round, Samuel

. . . Birmingham

283

Powell, T. J

... Bournemouth

350

Taylor, George

Mate* W., and Son

Hicks, —

Broadstone

Harrison. W. W., and Co. ...

Sheffield

Hitchcock, F

Winchester

Ogden, William, St. John's Market, Blackpool, Market Place,
Feetwood, and Market Place, Preston, and residing at 38,
Lark Hill, Blackpool, Jeweler. Trustee : John Taylor,
67. Church Street, Blackpool, Accountant. Dated August
28th; filed September 1st; unsecured liabilities, £175 0s. 2d.;
assets, £71 5s. 5d.

Joy

John Robert, 79, Lidget Street, Lindley, Huddersfield,
Jeweler. Trustee : John F. Dyson, 24, Queen Street,
Huddersfield, C.A. Deed of assignment with a view to
payment of a composition of 10s. in the £, payable within
14 days from assent of all creditors. Secured creditors
£172 9s. 5d. Dated September 1st; filed September 7th;
unsecured liabilities £602 ; assets £413 16s. Id.

£ s. d.

Blackensee and Son, Limited ... Birmingham 81 0 6

Newsome and Co. ... ... ... Coventry 58 13 11

Marlow, E. J. H „ 36 5 3

Joy, Robert (Trustee of Thomas Joy) Halifax 22 0 0

Ogden, Joseph (Trustee of Mary Berry) Lightcliffe 64 3 4

Widmer, Gabriel Liverpool 24 18 0

Shoeps Bros. ... Manchester 135 11 3

Ashworth, John, and Co. ... ... ,, 43 7 3

Briggs, W., and Co Sheffield 46 13 6

Mark, Willis, and Son „ 33 9 0

English Optic Company, The, 35, Hatton Garden, E.C., Whole-
sale Opticians. Partners : Edwin Isaacs, 79, Marylands
Road, Paddington, and Albert Wulfson, 45, Cotleigh Road,
Kilburn. Trustee: Lawrence Hasluck, 17, Holborn Viaduct,
E.C., C.A. Composition of 5s. in the £, payable 2s. 6d.
within one month from date of execution hereof by all
creditors, Is. 3d. at 7 months from date hereof, and Is. 3d.
at 13 months from said date, secured by assignment to
trustee to realise, to make up deficiency if any. Dated
August 27th ; filed September 1st ; unsecured liabilities,
£952 5s. lOd. ; assets, £125 Is. 9d.

Courlander, —
Isaac, L., and Co.
Nitselie and Gimthie ...
Rackow, H.

Woolfson, de T. G

Davis, —

Prost, Z

Colin, H

Janvier, —
Tournier, — ■

Laurent, —

Creditors under £30 ...

£ s.

London

145 0

40 0

58 0

98 0

>»

100 0

Birmingham

49 7

Jura

180 0

Morez de Jura

48 16

48 0

Norez

30 0

Paris

54 11

77 4

s. d.

London

184

12 5

163

10 6

■ns... ... ,,

15 6

3 11

... ,,

19 9

... ... ,,

4 0

9 10

11 9

0 0

19 4

.;. n

8 3

Birmingham

114

5 8

...

5 10

Bills of Sale.

Robeeson, Mary, and Edward George Roberson, both of 11, Ken-
sington Gardens, Brighton, Sussex, Watchmakers. Composi-
tion of 13s. 4d. in the £, by four equal instalments, the first
on execution hereof, and at 4, 8, and 12 months from date
hereof, last instalment secured. Dated September 5th ;
filed September 12th ; unsecured liabilities £793 lis. 2d.

Bowmau, R. T.
Jacobs, A. M., and Co
Greenwood, John, and Sons

Unna, H. A

Thompson, J., and Sons
Baume and Co.
Cooper, H. J., and Co.
Marples, Robert M. ...
Roley, John

Potter, William, and Son
Hirch, Pritchard, and Co
Joseph, B. H., and Co.
Holmes, W. J.

Lemmon, George Francis, 23, Vicarage Road ; 9, St. George's
Road ; and 2, Hughenden Road, Hastings, Optician. In.
favor of Letitia M. Sior. Dated September 3rd ; filed
September 7th. £200. Of property described in schedule
as at 23, Vicarage Road ; 9, St. George's Road ; and 2, .
Hughenden Place, Hastings, aforesaid ; also of a telescope
at, etc.

Ashman, Walter Emery, 23, Loder Street, Old Kent Road,
Watchmaker and Manager to, etc. In favor of Rhoda E.
Elliott. Dated September 15th ; filed September 16th.
£40.

Partnerships Dissolved.

Parkes and Adams, 7, Shooter's Hill, West Cowes ; and Castle
Street, East Cowes (I.W.), Jewelers and Watchmakers.
August 28th.

Kirkness T., and Co., 3, Westborough ; and 14, Huntriss Row,
Scarborough, Watchmakers and Jewelers. January 13th.
Debts by George Edgar Kirkness, who continues at 4,
Westborough, in partnership with Octavius Allen Kirkness,
under the same style.

Palfryman and Pyke, 42 and 44, Market Street ; and 227,
Grange Road, Birkenhead, Plate, Watch, and Jewelry
Dealers, and Silversmiths. September 15th, Debts by
William Pyke, who continues in his own name.

€^5/€l€r

Entered at Stationers' Hall.]

Edited by W. J. LEWIS ABBOTT, F.G.S.

[Registered for Transmission Abroad.

Vol. XVII.— No. 5.

NOVEMBER 2, 1891.

[ Subscription, 5s. ) Post

L per Annum. I Free.

Single Copies, 6d.

^ufgaritie^ in Gr^gfi^ft ^eaDefny
©e$ign&.

E have been recently much amused by the
perusal of an article with the above title in
(of all papers in the world) the Builder. It
is an astounding piece of ignorant egotism
on the part of a would-be critic, and but for
the esteem in which we have held the Builder as a trade
journal, we should have contemptuously tossed the thing
into the waste-paper basket. The Builder seems a very
curious quarter for an article of this description and title ;
and henceforth, according to the writer's definition, this
journal, instead of being considered as specially adapted for
the use of builders, must be regarded as without even the
elements of design, for according to our critic's definition,
"design means the production of something which does
not appear matter of accident, in which each part is in-
wound with, and is an integral portion of the whole, and no
such word can be applied to mere throwing together of
hetro^eneous details that has'e no relation to one another."
These are rather far reaching words, but they are not our
own, and the Builder is quite welcome to them !

This singular critic of jewelry opens by saying : " There
does not appear to be the slightest improvement in taste
in this class of article, no perception of good taste, or re-
finement and stability of design." We should be staggered
at such assertions did not the writer give us the key of the
whole thing in the next paragraph, wherein he reveals the
nature of the experience and practical knowledge he has
had to enable liim to criticise " the exquisitely minute
finish " of modern jewelry, a position whose enviable
heights he has reached by making cuttings of things ad-
vertised in the newspapers. Of course, such a writer is to
be pitied, were it not for his indomitable impudence. He
has probably never seen what the trade would recognise as a
fine piece of representative work : a spray of orchids eighteen
inches long for instance, a thing that would not only never
appear as a newspaper block, but would not even be put in

a window. But the one who is neither to be pitied nor
excused is the editor of the journal for allowing such an
article to appear. We cannot waste our space in annihila-
ting this writer's calumnies seriatim. To use his own
words, the article was anything but the result of " a fortui-
tous concurrence of atoms " of his brain. His knowledge
of the subject is absolutely nothing ; his ideas are
utterly opposed to fact. No matter whether he is
speaking of the antiques as seen through the glass cases
of a museum, or the " mere lumps of gold representing so
much bullion ' ' as displayed in newspaper advertisements,
his primitive conceptions of the ari of the jeweler are
hopelessly irreconcilable with the definitions of men who
are recognised as art critics. In regard to his attack
upon the " horsey " jewelry for lovers of the field sports,
let us assure him that it is a major canon with many who
have an exceptional qualification, that jewelry to be any-
thing at all, should be symbolic ; and it is the province of
the jeweler to make the best of the emblems peculiar to
each of the classes into which society finds itself divided
to-day. One might farther remark that the assertion
respecting the articles attacked, that " they are entirely
unhampered by utilitarian considerations," is equally
erroneous, especially when the writer touches upon gold
alberts ; for if an albert is not an article to serve a definite
use, what is ? He complains that they contain no
"decorative idea." Lot us be gracious and give him a
little friendly advice. If he libels individuals as he libels
classes he will pretty soon find himself before a gentleman
who wears an ideal and representative chain, that is both
conceived according to art principles and highly decor-
ated in its details. Bad art may bj vulgar, bat ignorant
and uncalled-for abuse is far worse.

Finally, in reference to the adverse criticism in compari-
son of the skill of the jewelers, whose productions this
would-be critic assails, we are prepared to take articles of
their manufacture and compare them for " exquisite minute
finish," and skill of production, with anything he can
produce from the antique for any amount we may agree
upon, the proceeds to go to the charities of the trade he so
unjustly assails.

THE WATCHMAKEE, JEWELER AND SILVERSMITH.

[November 2, 1891.

Uft<

Montana
iapp^ire d

ompaotj

OME ten years ago we were shown several large
bags full of stones in the hands of a cattle
rancher, who had come over to this country to
see if they were any good. They were all sub-
angular and water- worn ; the majority of
them were garnets, but a great part of them
were corundmns of various hues from dark
blue to pinkish, the principal being a dark purple. These, he
said he had bought for next to nothing from gold washers
in Montana. In addition, he had several crystals
whicb were evidently the same corundum unworn ; these,
he said, he had taken from a rock in which they occurred
situated a long distance from where the sapphires
were found in the rivers. We were very much struck with
the importance of the find, and entered into certain agree-1
ments with him, by which we hoped we should soon
materially benefit. But month by month went by, and
nothing was heard from him. One day, while on an
omnibus, we overheard a man asking the way to Smith-
field Market, and getting into conversation with, him,
he said he was a cattle rancher, that he had got a load of
beef at Deptford, and that he was about to sell it at the
market. As he mentioned the name of a place of which the
gem-discoverer had spoken, we asked if he knew this man.
"Oh, yes," he replied; "poor fellow, I bought him out
when he went off his head about a sapphire mine which
cost him his life, for his whole party, except one, were
killed by Indians." Subsequently we mentioned the
matter to Professor Foote, and asked him if he knew of
the existence of the Montana gems, to which he replied
in the affirmative. He said he had called attention to them
some years before, and had written a description in the
Century. The next one to call public attention to them
was the enthusiastic expert of Messrs. Tiffany (Mr. G. F.
Kunz), who subsequently, accompanied by a special agent
of the United States Bureau, went to Montana and made
a report for the Eleventh Census. We do not think that
report is published, but it is said that Mr. Kunz remarks
in it : " No true red ruby or blue sapphire has ever been
found in this country. Montana stones are what are
known as fancy colors." By this we take it that
he means ideally true, for in Harper's, December 1887, he
says : ' ' The finest sapphires for gems are collected by the
miners from the sluice-boxes of the placer mines, near
Helena, Montana. The gems are usually light green,
blue comma, red comma, and all the intermediate shades.
Often they are blue as viewed in one direction, and red
when seen in another. Frequently all the colors would
assume a red hue by artificial light. A very interesting
piece of jewelry was recently made from these stones in the
form of a crescent. At one end, as seen by daylight, the
stones were red, shading to a bluish-red in the centre, and
finally into blue at the other end ; but by artificial light
the color of all turned red. A few small gems, less than
one carat in weight, have come from the same place.
They were truly ruby red and sapphire blue. Of the latter
color perfect gems have been found here up to nine carats
in weight. By artificial light these are intensely brilliant."
The description of these agrees to what we have seen of
them, especially their noctichroic characteristics, i.e., their
change of color by artificial or night light. From these
descriptions it is evident that the existence of the gems
has long been known, and various attempts have been
made to work the deposit, and several times they have
glutted the American market. Mr. Kunz would not under-
take the enterprise, as the gem-bearing tract is so large.
Indeed, it is said that ex-Governor Hauser of Helena owns
an area twenty times as large as the one of which we are
about to speak, which consists of about 4,000 acres of land

on the right bank of the Missouri River, about twelve miles
N.W. from Helena. This plot has been secured, and trials
of a separating machine have been made with such results
that a company is about to be brought out called The
Sapphire and Ruby Company of Montana, with nearly half a
million capital, and with the most impressive body of
incorporators one would often see, including Sir Francis
Knollys (Secretary to the Prince of Wales), Lord Chelms-
ford, Earl Mowbray, Earl Clarendon, Earl de la Warre,
Duke of Leinster, Marquis of Breadalbane, Marquis of
Bristol, with numerous Lords and prominent men. The
directors are Lord Chelmsford, E. W. Streeter, Sir Robert
Collins, Horatio Steward, F. H. Bowman, H. M. Deeley,
Millford Hallett, and W. B. Gurney, with H. Moir as
secretary.

The value, however, of a mining property cannot be
gauged by the social position of those who aspire to be-
come connected with it, otherwise the Burma Ruby Com-
pany would be now rolling in its millions, considering the
supporters of this project included the crowned heads of
Europe and Asia. Each case must stand upon its own
bottom ; there are many things which look charming on
paper, but are very different in actual fact. Moreover, we
fear some of the statements that have been published in
regard to the Montana deposits would be misleading to
many. We have made careful inquiries from time to time,
and are by no means prepared to pronounce this "find" a
greater one than the Cashmere sapphires, which were
brought down on mules. No one doubts the existence of
sapphires in Montana, so that the opinion of Professor
Church in identifying their real nature is of little value, as
he does not say a word about the quality of them. We have
repeatedly had it, on what we consider good authority, that
of the total finds about 5 per cent, are worth the cutting,
and amongst these really fine rubies and sapphires have a
hazy uncertainty. With the heavy expense under which
this deposit will have to be worked, it will be necessary to
sell quite £100,000 worth of stones a year to make it
equal to, say, the De Baers Company. Of course we do not
say this will not be done, nor do we say that the late
diamond finds in Kentucky will not ultimately rival the
Cape Mines. Past experiences, however, would make us
a little careful in advising our friends to take up gem-
mining.

RESPECTING the Chicago Exhibition of 1893 the
-**\ London Chamber of Commerce have issued a circular
letter in which they state they have been assured by the
American deputation, which recently passed through Lon-
don, that all exhibits forwarded thither will, as long as
they remain unsold, be treated as goods in bond, so that
the duties ruling need in no way interfere with the proper
representation of the products of British industry. The
Chamber therefore hope that, in view of the wide accept-
ances of the invitations to exhibit by all nationalities of
the Northern and Southern American Continent, as well as
by the nations of Europe, Asia, and Africa, and by our
various colonies, and the keen competition to which such
acceptances will give rise, as many British producers and
manufacturers as possible will respond to the invitation
given, and will take the necessary steps to make known
their intention to send exhibits as early as practicable.
Manufacturers are reminded that our Government have
accepted the invitation of the United States Government
to be officially represented, and have appointed the Council
of the Society of Arts to constitute the British Commission.
All communications respecting space and other conditions
should be addressed to the Secretary of the British Com-
mission, at the Society of Arts, John-street, Adelphi, W.C.

The Illustrated Patents Record, and the list of patents
applied for, is unavoidably left over this month, but will
be given in the next issue.

•November 2, 1891.] THE WATCHMAKER, JEWELER AND SILVERSMITH.

ffotes fibouk Jo\ur).

From all accounts, considering the excessive
xh*j»a*£nlhdownpourings and floods all over the country,

coupled with the out-of-season state of London,
business was quite as brisk as one might expect. There is
very little that is new being displayed ; no doubt novelties
are being saved for next month, for the Christmas trade.

# * *

We are pleased to say that the inquiries for
FaViVion. emeralds are increasing, indeed, it would not
be an exaggeration to say that they are coming
quite to the front, and are becoming the fashionable gem.
We noticed the increased demand for them several months
ago, which has been improving. The same may be said of ,
Paris, where one can now see thousands of pounds worth
of them on show. One wonders where they have been kept,
for they burst upon us like a shower of manna in the desert.
Lovely sprays are coming forward with emerald leaves and
diamond flowers, and in some instances other colored
stones are being introduced. There is no doubt that the
rage for colored stones is spreading, and with this
colored diamond ornaments are being inquired for; we
have heard of the moving of a number of these lately, in-
cluding some very expensive pieces. Turquoise is
also very favorably received, and a number of very
expensive pieces are being made and sold up to
four figures. Fine large specimens of "old stones" are
commanding very high prices. Necklets, tiaras, and large
sprays are absorbing the supply of fine stuff in the market,
and far more gents ' turquoise rings are inquired for. Fine
old pure light blue (not too light, of course) is being very
much sought after, as most of that recently introduced into
the market is dark.

* # #

A gentleman of foreign aspect, about 30 years

cheque* of age, just over medium height, dark hair and

and other moustache, and fresh complexion, has been

visiting several houses trying to obtain goods

upon payment of cheque. A man of similar description

has also swindled some Manchester jewelers, by having the

goods sent to a house for selection, with which he

decamps out the back way. There is also a member of the

light-fingered fraternity about cleverly " ringing the

changes."

# * *

i it i- wiui ^N Passino Oxford Circus the other day we
to noticed an old retired member of the trade,
advertise ? wkom we fa^ known many years ago. He said
he had been standing there for a long time expecting to
see some old members of the trade. But, alas ! when he
mentioned a long list of names, where had they gone ?
Firm after firm of West End manufacturers were men-
tioned, all of whom have practically disappeared.
Businesses which were once of colossal dimensions have
dwindled down to nothing or died quite out, and it would
be too pointed to say where some of the proprietors have
gone. As one reflects upon this melancholy shifting of
scenes, the thought will present itself : are the lines upon
which the better-class jewelry manufacture has been
carried out in accordance with what is recognised by
many as business policy ? Ought a manufacturer to be
enshrouded with that mystery and secrecy of existence which
most of the West End retailers demand of him ? Ought
his hands to stand idle, and his business dwindle away",
just because he must not advertise his productions ?
We are obliged, in fairness to all, to say decidedly,
No. We have on one hand retailers who are anxious
to get hold of certain goods or certain kinds of work ; on
the other there are men with just these goods, and
capable of performing just that kind of work, yet the latter

must not publish the fact. And what is the result ? Is
there less business being done in the West End and City in
jewelry ? Certainly not ; but others are getting it who work
more upon the recognised principles of modern business.

The

Of the competitive designs sent in for this medal

the one selected is that of Messrs. Elkington

*.mi»s>r«r and Company (Limited), 42, and 44, Moorgate

Street, and 22, Regent Street. The medal has
on the obverse a portrait of His Majesty the German
Emperor, in the uniform he wore when he visited the
City on July 10th, 1891, side by side with the portrait of
the Empress ; and the inscription — Gulielmus II., Impera-
tor Rex. On the reverse, to the right, stands a figure
with a helmet, representing the City of London, and rest-
ing her right hand upon the throne, on which is seated a
female figure — Germania — to whom she is pointing out the
shipping in the River Thames. At her side is a shield
showing the arms of the City of London. Germania is
shown with her left hand holding a sword, while her right
rests upon a shield, bearing the arms of Germany. In the
foreground a lion is peacefully reclining. At the foot of
the throne are two doves, with the date of the Emperor's
visit. The allegorical figures are represented within a
balustrade ; beyond, to the right, the masts of ships are
visible, and to the left St. Paul's Cathedral and the City.

■ , ^ "?r t^

A company has been registered, with a
w^'i'diS capital of £10,000, which we hear has been
jnauiitac- subscribed privately, to manufacture watch -
Coininmy. cases in Birmingham or elsewhere, in accord-
ance with an agreement made between John
Ashwin and Philip H. Lawrence on the one part, and
C. H. Kingston on behalf of the Company.

Mr. VV. P. Hartley, Manufacturer, of

CSo0forLiuos^ntree' kas mtmiated to the council of
someone. University College, Liverpool, that he will be
responsible for the £1,000 necessary for the
provision of a clock and chimes for the tower erected by
public subscription in commemoration of her Majesty's
Jubilee. A " Gold Cup " of similar value is about to
celebrate the Marquis of Bute's Mayoralty of Cardiff.
* * #

Fancy forms of jeweled watches, such as beetles,
Wiitche*. and geometric designs, are being asked for in
some quarters ; while gun-metal oxydised
watches are moving. Watch bracelets are, if anything,
on the increase, and new and elaborate designs are
appearing.

IMPORTANT NOTICE.

Next month we purpose commencing a series of articles
on ticket-writing of an educational character. Everything
in connection with the art will be described and explained,
and fully illustrated.

Elsewhere will be found the first of a series of articles
upon " AVindows and Window Dressing," supplied in re-
sponse to an often preferred request. We hope to make
these articles the most important that have ever befii
written upon this subject ; indeed, so far as we are aware,
it is a subject that has never been very extensively treated
of. For many years we have been fruitlessly looking for
such a set of articles ourselves. They will be profusely
illustrated with designs, plans, and elevations of the
principal styles of window dressing, including some
originals, which we consider improvements upon our earlier
children, which have been so flatteringly admired by the
trade, more especially those connected with what may be
called Draped and Velvet Stand Windows.

THE WATCHMAKER, JEWELER AND SILVERSMITH.

[November 2, 1891.

Birfryi^am ]\[ot^.

(By our own Correspondent. )*

'OST of the scientific and philosophical instrument
makers are busy on their special lines, perhaps not
quite so much as the various branches of the optical
trade are. Several of the large firms are quite pressed
even for cameras and lenses, which are not expected to be
in such demand so near Christmas. It is only natural that
lanterns, and the various accessories that are continually
being added to them, should be in request at the approach
of winter. Cutting in prices is still going on, and quota-
tions for goods in very many lines are ridiculously low.

^ORK in micro slides is also fairly busy. We are glad
to see that much of the petrological work, which was
formerly done on the Continent, is now gravitating
towards Birmingham. There are now quite a number of
houses whose work is as cheap as the Continental. There
yet remains a good fortune for any one who would make a
speciality of axial sections, the greater part of them being
imported from Germany, France and America. The price
obtained for these is very high, but of course the demand is
not so great as for common cheap ones. Still, there is
nothing after all bewitching in their production, only a little
knowledge, and^ in some crystals with a basal cleavage
they are more easily prepared than ordinary sections, while
the price obtained is four or five times as high.

Q7PECTACLE makers are also fairly busy, both with
aMj lenses and frames ; and with the improved methods
of manipulation that have been added of late, there
is no necessity whatever to send a single job out of the
country.

ETOR the most part there has been a decided feeling of
h disappointment among the Birmingham jewelers
during the month just passed. September having
proved an almost exceptionally good month, there was
a natural expectation that October would follow suit.
The first few days, however, dispelled this illusion, as im-
mediately September closed the wave of prosperity seemed
to abruptly recede, and throughout the month there has
been but a jog-trot sort of business, without that display of
genuine energy that a good October ought to show. We
do not wish to infer that no business has been done, but
simply that there has been no exceptional demand. The
bulk of business done would have made a splendid June,
July, or August ; but it has been rather below than above
the average for October.

TJN spite of this our reading of the signs of the times is
X not pessimistic. We think the tendency is to a severe
rush for the next two months, and much of the trade
that should have been done already is simply delayed ; and
we shall gain the benefit of it between now and Christmas.
We would therefore advise our friends to keep their stocks
full to cope with the coming demands. We have heard
various grumbles and whining prognostications of an utter
collapse of the Christmas trade ; but we certainly do not
see any signs to confirm this opinion, and we have still faith
in our own judgment. It were not well to give too much
credence to the chronic grumblers. Further evidence in sup-
port of our idea is found in the fact that the bullion dealers
report good sales. They, being the very basis of the trade,
form the safest criterion as to its actual condition. Gold
and silver are not goods to be bought on long credit, and
we may safely rely on it that any increased demand for the
raw materials is the result of genuine business.

YTTHE reports from the North are poor, and do not show
^X® any great expectations for the immediate future.
Our best results lately have been from the London
trade, and in it we find our chief prospect.

(7T NY report from Birmingham for the month of October,
/eJL 1891, which did not contain a reference to the Trien-
nial Musical Festival would be seriously incomplete.
It would, of course, be equally out of place to treat of it
in the present report on its musical aspect ; but it justly
claims notice at our hands as a specal stimulus to our
local trade. On no other occasion, probably, is there such
an influx of aristocratic and wealthy visitors to our usually
prosaic city. It was naturally anticipated that some little
of the surplus wealth would be invested in jewelry, and
our local shopkeepers laid out some tempting arrays where-
with to entice it from the pockets and purses of our
visitors. Nor were they entirely disappointed, as a good
vdeal of money was spent amongst us, although we have
not heard of any specially noteworthy or expensive articles
having been disposed of. It is a remarkable fact that
people will not buy their jewelry in Birmingham; the
names and the high prices of Bond Street or Regent Street
being necessary to stamp an article as of genuine value.

TT7HE diamond industry is still suffering from the bad
®x® results of the unhealthy combinations at the fields.
The cutters of Amsterdam are complaining loudly —
many of the workshops being closed for want of " rough."
Besides this, the sale of diamond ornaments is greatly
restricted on account of the high prices still obtaining.
We much doubt both the justice and the advisability of
allowing the existence of such trusts and combinations,
which serve simply to enrich a few, to the lasting detri-
ment of a large section of the community.

f LARGE firm of die-sinkers here have for some time
past been anxiously awaiting their usual autumn
orders for medals and club badges. During the
slack summer months they laid down a lot of new plant
to enable them to more completely cope with the expected
orders, intending to finish them entirely — enamelling in-
cluded— on their own premises. However, the orders have
not yet turned up, although much overdue, and fears are
entertained that they have gone elsewhere. We hope
this is not the case, not only to save the said firm from
disappointment, but because Birmingham has special
facilities for such work, and has already gained a good
tiaine for it.

^E have not heard anything this year about the "Art
Congress," which some twelve months ago was
running amuck among the artistic industries of
Birmingham. Nottingham was to have been its seat of
operations, but whether it still exists, or whether its vapid
vaporations of last year have suffocated it, we neither
know nor care. Its mission to the makers of jewelry was
certainly not successful, as its teachings were based alto-
gether on misconception and ignorance of the require-
ments of the trade.

TT7HE bankruptcy of David Maurice, of London, is a
©Jfe matter claiming special attention. His public exam-
ination revealed a system of pawning and accommo-
dation which cannot possibly be called legitimate trading.
However, as the matter is at present sub judice, further
comment is impossible ; but we call attention to it, as many
of the Birmingham manufacturers are interested. Our
Jewelers' Association have the case in hand, and intend
submitting it to a thorough investigation.

November 2, 1891.] THE WATCHMAKER, JEWELEE AND SILVERSMITH.

^N connection with the alleged forgery of the Birmingham
Assay Mark case, we have been wondering how many
there are actually engaged in the trade who could
positively identify a given assay mark as distinct from a
series of fraudulent marks in imitation thereof. In the plate
trade, where it is customary to stamp E.P. goods with
marks similar to assay marks, doubtless the education in
this direction is keener ; but with the minute marks used
for jewelry the difficulties are very great. Further, how
often — or rather how seldom — are the marks' carefully
examined ? An article is sold as hall-marked, and the
buyer gives a cursory glance at the marks, but does he go
to the trouble of examining to see if they are really correct
or not ? Again, in many cases the polishing and finishing
of the goods nearly obliterate the marks, so that accurate
identification is almost impossible. The drift of our
thoughts is this : what opportunities there are in this
direction for fraud and dishonesty in our trades ; and apart
from the vigilance of the various assay authorities, what
little risk there is of detection. Calling to mind the
different prosecutions which have cropped up during the
last few years, it seems that by far the greater number
have been discovered by accident. Nor are we able to
suggest any system of surveillance which could successfully
cope with the clever swindles occasionally perpetrated
in our midst. It might, however, be well to refresh
the memory of our friends — especially our country readers
— as to the distinctive marks of our Birmingham Assay
Office. The sign manual of the Birmingham office
is an anchor ; all articles assayed here bear this mark.
The dominant letter for the current year — July 1st, 1891, to
June 30th, 1892 — is a small (that is not a capital) Gothic
" r." The distinguishing badge for goods of 18-ct. quality
is a crown. 15-ct. is marked by the figures 15.625 ; 9 is
marked by the figures 9.375. Silver bears the mark of a
lion passant (that is, in the act of walking). If these
particulars were borne well in mind, such minor frauds as
passing off gilt silver or 9-ct. as of higher qualities would
be rendered impossible.

|NE of our veracious contemporaries, we notice, is tell-
ing its readers what happened on December 31st,
1891. This is a simple error and easily understand-
able ; but the query is, if they make a mistake in so simple
a matter as the date of the year, what reliance can be
placed on the elaborate figures and statistics with which
they are in the habit of favoring us ?

NE of our largest firms here has had occasion to send
_J round a circular calling attention in curt terms to the
fact that Mr. So-and-So, their former traveler, is no
longer in their employ. There is always an unpleasant
savor about such notices which engenders a general feel-
ing of uneasiness. No reason whatever is given for the
fact.

'<TUDGING by the quantities of advertisements for work-
U men now appearing in our papers, the manufacturing-
portion of the trade here is fully occupied. There is no
necessity at present for any workman (worthy the name) to
be out of employ.

Let the shoemaker stick to his last ; and the critic
of the Builder to his jerry erections and " villa resi-
dences." Evidently the said critic lias totally mistaken
his vocation when he leaves his bricks and mortar
and attempts to soar to the heights of gold and
gems. The article we are referring to is on " Vulgarities
of English Jewelry Design," and it is a fierce and
incoherent tirade against the whole scope of present
day design in jewelry. It is characterised by an utter
disregard of truth in its statement of facts (so called)
and instances, and by a deplorable ignorance of the
real bearings of the subject, which would have prevented

anyone with less assurance than the writer of the article
from touching the matter at all . But stay ! even as we
read we detect a strong undercurrent of " malice prepense,"
which seems to suggest that the poor fellow, finding his
transcendental talents unappreciated and unremunerated
by the jewelers, has been forced against his will to find
scope for his abilities in the artistic atmosphere of cottage
property and tenement dwellings ; venting his spleen mean-
while in an ungrammatical display of his own bad taste.
We wish him joy in his new career ; and, for ourselves,
were quite content to pass over his remarks with a pitiful and
contemptuous silence. As, however, his opinions are ex-
pressed with all the bombast of authority, and may there-
fore mislead the public, we deem it well to give a simple
but emphatic denial to his nonsensical contention.
This matter has been taken up by some of the Birming-
ham papers, and several letters, for and against, have
appeared. One of the writers, in his anxiety to be smart
at the expense of the poor jewelers, uses the adjective
" unbeautiful." What amount of artistic perception can
such a man lay claim to ? In this connection we may
well ask the question, What is the value of any trade article
in the ordinary daily newspapers ? To judge by the man-
ner in which subjects connected with our own business are
treated, such articles are not worth the paper and ink
wasted on them.

fT is with pleasure we turn from this subject to direct
attention to an article in The British Trade Journal
on " The Future of the Export Trade in Jewelry."
This article is well worth perusal, dealing, as it does, with
matters vitally affecting the shipping and manufacturing
sections of our trades. It traces' the various causes which
have tended to the decline of our export business, the "on
consignment " system being cited as the first wrong step.
The evil results of this system — bogus auction sales, the
wholesale shipping of cheap and nasty goods, etc. — are
then exposed, with all their crippling influences on genuine
trade. Another matter referred to, and one that is of im-
portance to our local makers, is the constant emigration
of skilled workmen to the Colonies. The development of
manufactures abroad is a most serious drawback to our ,
shipping trade ; and this feeding of the colonial workshops
with our own trained operatives is a great mistake tin the
part of our employers of labor. Good and reliable work-
men should be kept at home at any cost. Still, the out-
look is not by any means bad, and the article concludes
with a very fair augury for the future of our export trade.

E^TOR the diamond fraud the sentence passed on the man
I Spitzel is well deserved, and we trust the appeal for
its reduction will not be successful. It is only by
heavy punishments that such crimes can be prevented, the
gains to be made being well worth the risk of light
sentences. It will be a bad precedent if the term is reduced.
We well remember this man some two or three years ago
making great efforts to get large parcels of goods on credit
from the Birmingham makers. We do not know, nor
would we infer, that his purpose then was dishonest ; but
in the light of recent events it is well that the said makers
did not part except for cash.

fT is an unfortunate fact that the jewelry and kindred
trades seem to be the happy hunting-grounds of people
with dishonest proclivities. We cannot look over any
paper without noticing something of fraud or robbery
appertaining to jewelry. The variety of operations would
be amusing were it not so serious a matter. We often
think that an equal amount of cleverness expended in a
legitimate direction would insure a safe and honorable
income for life to the possessor.

' We cuit not be understood as endorsing all, or necessarily any, of the opinions
of our correspondent, who writes on his own responsibility.

THE WATCHMAKER, JEWELER AND SILVERSMITH.

[November 2, 1891.

Sheffield flotes.

(By ouk own Correspondent.)*

SOTWITHSTANDING the fact that some firms in the
Electro-plate Trade are tolerably well off for orders,
it is to be feared that on the whole things are on the
down-grade. There is no very great out-cry as yet, but
indications are neither few nor far between that the
baneful influence of the M'Kinley tariff is being felt by
those trades not directly affected by it. The silver
trade, for example, could bear with equanimity total
exclusion from a market which it has not of late years set
much store by ; but when the buying powers of its
customers in the home market are crippled in consequence
of such exclusion the case is altered. At any rate, the
business outlook is by no means so rosy as it was this time-
last year, whatever it may be nearer Christmas. Such is
the general impression one carries away after mixing much
with members of the trade. Some few may be doing
extremely well, but with the many there is room for con-
siderable improvement.

CJT S regards the Sheffield trades generally, the Board of
kl. Trade returns continue to be anything but pleasant
reading. Month by month the exports of cutlery are
declining in bulk and value. Some philosophical indi-
viduals profess to regard this state of things as a blessing
in disguise, inasmuch as it is putting a stop to the manu-
facture of a class of goods that were no credit to the town.
It is quite true that the very best kind of cutlery is still
finding a ready sale in the States in spite of the tariff, and
it may be that the pruning knife judiciously applied to the
remainder will be of ultimate advantage to us as a com-
municy. Ah1 the same some few will undoubtedly bite the
dust before things finally readjust themselves to altered

circ umstances.

\|/HE town in its corporate capacity, however, evidently
^ll® does not anticipate collapse in the near future.
, , Power has been obtained to borrow £83,000 in order
to erect, the new Town Hall. No one expects that this
amount will be sufficient ; but in any case a respectable
increase to local taxation is assured for some time to come.
The foundation-stone of the building has been laid by the
mayor with befitting ceremony, and as the day happened
to be the anniversary of his worship's wedding he after-
wards entertained his friends in the splendid rooms of the
Mappin Art Galleries. It may be added that the artistic-
ally, got up silver trowel with which Mr. Clegg performed
the ceremony of laying the stone was made by the well-
known fii'fti of Walker and Hall, of Howard Street.

'ENTION of the Art Galleries reminds me that Sir
Frederick Thorpe Mappin has again come forward
with a princely gift of pictures to the town. As the
private collections of pictures in Sheffield are both numerous
and large, it is to be hoped that others will follow Sir
Frederick's good example, especially as there is still room
enough and to spare in the noble building in Weston Park.

YTTHE bankruptcy of Mr. J. W. Lindsey is full of instruc-
<sj/s> tion to all business men who are not too conceited
to learn. As this is about all his unfortunate
creditors are likely to get out of his estate, it would be
folly not to make the most of it. Some two or three years
ago Mr. Lindsey came from nobody knows where, and
engaged in a variety of philanthropic work, mostly con-
nected writh the children of the slums in Sheffield. As he
was engaged in no trade or profession, he was presumed to
be rich. Quite recently, however, Mr. Lindsey took a
warehouse and offices in the centre of the town and set up
as a wholesale msrchant. As his orders went out inquiries

respecting him came in. It is to be presumed that thes
resulted satisfactorily, because he succeeded in obtaining
goods to the extent of £700, which goods, as Mr. Parkin
told the judge of the Co.mty Court, " he did not appear to
have dealt with in the ordinary way of business." This
was rather a negative way of putting it, but as Mr. Lindsey
is not here to explain his creditors will have it all their
own way — as far as argument goes. His Honour made a
receiving order ; but the valuable experience the creditors
gain far outweighs the money value of any dividend they are
likely to get from the winding-up process.

Vr/HE complete abolition of the duty on silver plate may
ajfe now k3 regarded as an accomplished fact, inasmuch
as the duty paid on all goods in the hands of manu-
facturers at the period of the change has been refunded by
the Excise Authorities. The claims sent in were consider-
ably less in value than the amount set apart for their
liquidation by the Chancellor of the Exchequer, and when,
after a scrutiny, they were still further reduced, it was
found that Her Majesty's Government had to pay much less
than they had contemplated. The permanent annual loss
to the revenue, however, will prevent the Chancellor of the
Exchequer from feeling excessively jubilant over the fact ;
while he will not have the satisfaction of knowing that
anybody is appreciably benefitted by the change.

WALKING into town the other morning with a manu-
facturer who advertises in this journal, I put the
question to him, " Do you find advertising pay ? "
" Oh, yes," he replied ; " no doubt about that." " But,"
said I, "do you never lose by it ? " " No," he answered,
"when I receive an order from a person I don't know, I
ask for a reference. Some few send it, others drop the
matter. Of course, I don't suppose that all who do not
give the required reference are ' bad ' ; some are offended,
no doubt. Still I find it better on the whole to do as I do.
The volume of my trade may be less but my losses are nil,
and that is something to be thankful for." This may be
taken as a reply to those people who don't advertise because
they fear it will make them bad debts. Every silversmith
knows that under any circumstances considerable circum-
spection is required in opening new accounts. That being
understood, there is no reason to believe that the profits of
judicious advertising may not be as surely calculated upon
as those of any other kind of investment.

TstfE have just had a distinguished visitor in our midst in
^YMp the person of the Lord Mayor of Dublin, whose
purpose was understood to be a study of our system
of sewage. Besides being incidentally a proof that Irish-
men really do sometimes think of such prosaic matters, it
may be looked upon as a compliment to ourselves. Our
sewage system, however, has already been adopted by
Glasgow, where the necessary works are in progress under
the superintendence of our borough engineer, Mr. Alseng,
whom we have kindly lent to the Scottish City for that
purpose. It will be seen, therefore, that although we may
be a long way behind Birmingham as a well-governed
community, we are certainly improving in a municipal

sense.

QX FAMILIAR figure in Sheffield ■ some years ago has
Jul. just passed away in the person of Mr. J. W. Burns,
who, until laid aside by illness eight years ago,
occupied a position in the Spoon and Fork Department of
Messrs. William Hutton and Sons, West Street. Mr.
Burns was one of the artisans elected to visit and report
upon the Paris Exhibition some thirteen years ago, and his
report upon the spoon and fork trade as carried out on the
Continent was characterised by considerable ability. His
employers testified to his worth by making him a weekly
grant throughout the period of his long illness.

We must not be nndersiood as endorsing ad, or nece-sanly any. of the views of
oui' c irrespondent, who writes on Ills own responsibility.

November 2, 1891.] THE WATCHMAKER, JEWELER AND SILVERSMITH.

Qouptry ffot^.

WE are glad to chronicle the fact that classes are about
to be formed in Prescot for the teaching of theoreti-
cal and practical watchmaking in connection with
the Technical Education Scheme.

PARTY of about 800 strong, representing the Lan-
cashire Watch Company, participated in its first
annual excursion. Headed by the managing director,
Mr. T. P. Hewitt, they left Prescot by special train shortly
after 12 o'clock, arriving at the Manchester Zoological
Gardens about 1.30. Fine weather favoring them,
rambles were made amongst our " distant brethren " and
acquaintances made "with friends from many a distant
shore." At 6 o'clock a goodly party set down to high tea,
and it was not until the small hours of the morning _ that
Prescot once more received into her arms her holiday-
making children.

WE have previously called attention to the dead-and:
alive state of the Prescot Watchmakers' Association,
and are sorry we have nothing better to report about
it now. Indeed, so low has it dwindled that a meeting
was convened just as we were going to press with our _ last
issue, to consider whether it was desirable to dissolve it or
not. There were over fifty members present out of some
sixty-four, to which low figure the society has dwindled,
from, we believe, over 250. Why something has not been
done to keep such a society together is a mystery which
perhaps some of our friends at Prescot can venture to
answer. We are very sorry to see that a nominal sub-
scription of 3d. a week was found too much for its members.
It is absolutely certain that if the maximum amount of
good is to result to a trade, combination is indispensable.
A trade association is different from a commercial specula-
tion, the object being the weal of its members, and the
obtaining of those benefits which do not result from
individual action. Although the proposal to dissolve was
put, it was only carried in an invalid manner, as not five-
sixths of the total strength of the society were favorable
to dissolution. We trust, however, that the association
will start again with new determination and energy, and
that it will even yet acquire a tone which shall be above all
petty jealousies, "and give strength and impetus to the
trade in its hour of opposition and competition.

MESSRS. HEWITT are to be highly congratulated upon
their recent production of the half movement, and
although it will wipe out an old acquaintance in the
shape of a frame with three or four wheels and pinions,
we feel no heart pangs at the loss even of so good and old
a friend as it has been. The " new movement " which the
Lancashire Watch Company has turned out is nevertheless
not full blown, but it is one or two steps nearer "complete " ;
and we hope some day in the immediate future to see them
turn out an entirely new one altogether ready to case.
However, in the new child the finishing is done by
machinery — a point formerly insisted upon as being the
special province of hand- work — so that, to employ a para-
phrase, we may say that tbe wheels of machinery grind
hard, but they grind exceedingly slow.

"pTE are informed that manufacturers of cameras find the
W home trade dropping, which they attribute to the
season of the year. Many, on the other hand, are
busy with lanterns in all their branches, new lanterns
appearing and slides multiplying almost ad infinitum.
They, however, say that orders on hand will last fully up
to Christmas. There is also a development of the micro
slide business going on, especially for export. In fact,

there is a development in many of those kinds of
instruments that are mostly exported, such as barometers,
of which perhaps the older Fitzroy claims a greater share
than in the home market.

E hear that in Manchester there is a generally good
f all round demand for physical and philosophical
instruments. Lanterns and slides are being asked
for, as are the generality of optical goods. With the
approaching Christmas electrical instrument makers are

very busy. —

N Liverpool the export trade is fairly well employed.

Nautical instrument makers have a few good lines on
hand, as also have the mathematical instrument
makers.

Christmas trade is also manifesting itself.

PTUST as we were going to press with our last issue a most
U imposing wedding ceremony was being performed at
the quaint old church within the grounds of Llantilio
Court, between Mr. Kevitt Rotherham, third son of Mr.
John Rotherham, of Keresley Grange, Coventry, and Miss
Frances Jackson, third daughter of the late Hon. Sir
Henry Mather Jackson, Bart., Judge, and formerly M.P,
for Coventry. The ceremony was doubtless the grandest
and most imposing that has been witnessed for many a
day. The presents (which would fill about two columns of
this journal) included a silver tea and coffee service, and
silver cigarette box, from the workpeople of Messrs.
Rotherham and Sons, together with numerous others from
gentlemen connected with the firm.

)¥t are highly gratified at the steps recently taken by
the Coventry Technical Institute. Their winter
session is noAV in full swing with an increase Of
numbers upon last year, and a course of training as complete
as could well be in practical work ; but in addition to this
there has been established a day class in order to impart
a sound theoretical knowledge to apprentices. We hope
the masters will take the opportunity thus afforded, and
allow time, and, if necessary, funds, so that deserving youths
may attend these classes. Indeed, we should like to see
this made a feature in indentures — it would assuredly pay
both employer and employee alike, and would hold out
another advantage to the apprentice. We are frequently
appealed to by country watchmakers in a dilemma over
being unaccustomed to teach the apprentice his trade, but
here is a solution to the whole question.

(7TS one fact is worth a thousand arguments, it may not
ML be out of place to reproduce a letter which appeared
in the Coventry Herald with respect to the above
classes : —

The re-opening of these classes gives me an opportunity of asking
for a little space to express, as a late student, my sense of pleasure
and profit gained through the instruction received there. The want
of time and other circumstances prevented my going in for theory, as
it may have done others ; but finding that classes for practical teaching
were open I was amongst the first to attend, and many times have I
been glad that the start was made. I am referring to the classes
taught by Mr. Bonnieksen and Mr. Overton, two workers not sur-
passed by any in the trade. Mr. Bonnicksen's class for piactical
springing should draw a good number of students. Here the making
of Bregnet springs is taught in the most approved and proper way.
Any finisher who can handle an ordinary flat spring fairly well jind
take a pleasure in his work would not find any great difficulty.
All he requires is three pahs of tweezers and a watch. Mr. Bonnick-
sen's teaching is so free and unreserved that I felt at the end of the
first night that 1 had received full value for the fee I had paid for the
term. Closely connected with this is Mr. Overton's class for finish-
ing. Here a student may take up any part he desires, as for instance,
the doing of three-quarter plate and Breguet stud works in a style so
different to much that passes under the some name. There should
be many ready to avail themselves of an opportunity to produce such
work as that made in Mr. Overton's style, and here the requirements are
less to begin witli than in the springing class. I feel so confident that
there must be others who would soon share my own experience if they
would put themselves in the way to do so, that I shall be glad to
know the number of students is largely increased. There is nothing
to lose and much to gain.

THE WATCHMAKER, JEWELER AND SILVERSMITH.

[November 2, 1891.

YT7HE second annual dinner of the Coventry Watch-Case
®li® Makers' Society took place at the " Watchmakers'
Arms," Spon Street, Coventry, on the evening of the
5th ult. ; the chair, on the occasion, being occupied by
Councillor Corbett. There was a goodly attendance, in-
cluding the president, Mr. E. Stynes ; the secretary, Mr.
Darrah, and other prominent members connected with the
trade. The secretary, in his report, congratulated the
members on their increased financial position and numeri-
cal strength. He said that the committee were confident they
had been the means of preventing reduction of prices in
certain cases. The Chairman, in proposing " Success to
the Coventry Watch-Case Makers' Society," said he enter-
tained a strong feeling towards trade societies, as no per-
manent good could be done without unity. Amongst other
reforms the speaker would have liked to seen effected, was
the payment of apprentices, not according to rule, but
according to their ability. He dwelt upon the surprising
fact of the little combination in the watch trade, and ad-
vocated its institution on just and proper lines, to which he
believed no manufacturer would object. Referring to the
Merchandise Marks Act, he said he did not consider it
went far enough, and contended that every foreign made
watch should have the words "foreign make," plainly
placed upon its face. The President, in replying to the
toast, referred to the work of the society, and the great
benefits it had achieved for its members, remarking that
to-day there were scarcely half a dozen members of the
Watch-Case trade who did not belong to the Society.
Mr. McKnight proposed " The Trades of the City," and
the Chairman responded, regretting the bad state of the
cycle trade, but hoped it was only a temporary reverse.
The other toasts were "The Chairman and Vice-
Chairman," "The Press," and "Hostess." During the
evening songs were given by Messrs. Stynes, Darrah,
Chattaway, Moore, Pritchard, Arnold, W. Francis, and
Pendleton, and a recitation by Mr. Clarke.

'R. W. JEFFS, Fleet Street, Coventry, has formed a
partnership with Mr. Charles Scarisbrick, late
manager of the Coventry Watch Manufacturing
Company. The firm will take up movement manufactur-
ing in Meadow Street, Coventry.

XT/HE growing scarcity of ivory has for some time stimu-
li.® lated the attempts frequently made to produce a good
artificial substitute. The latest effort in this direc-
tion appears to be fairly successful. The manufacture of
the article is based on the principle of employing in its-
composition the chemical ingredients of real ivory. In the
early stages of its manufacture it is sufficiently plastic to
be pressed into shape in moulds, while at the end of about
four weeks it becomes perfectly hard. If the new substance
in practice justifies the claims of its inventors, it will
certainly supply a "long-felt want," and be used for a
great variety of purposes in the Sheffield trades ; but so far
as silver goods are concerned, ivory will continue to be
used as long as tusks are to be had.

We are sorry to have to record the death of Mr. Jules
Nordmann, whose agreeable manners in the capacity of head
of one of the oldest and largest Swiss watch establishments
in this country have been admired by many of us for a
quarter of a century.

Time passes so quickly that it seems hardly possible to
realise that Mr. Jules Nordmann had reached the age of
fifty-four when he died on the 8th ult. Overstrained by
the rush of modern business when attacked by the wretched
influenza, which with its characteristic acumen laid hold
of the weakest part in his constitution, Mr. Nordmann
was cut off at a comparatively early age, and in the midst
of an exceedingly useful career.

@J ra. rt& at f antic jotting A.

§T is estimated that the total loss sustained by jewelers
and opticians in the recent conflagration in Nassau
Street, New York, will reach 60,003dols., of which
not more than 25,O00dols. is covered by insurance.

* *
'OVED probably by the appearance of the Gold-
smiths' and General Burglary Insurance Com-
pany, Americans are realising the advisability

of forming such an insurance, and are trying to
induce their Alliance to take up the matter. For once
in our lives we appear ahead of Cousin Jonathan. Bravo,
Mr. Buchanan ! They, however, say they have long
felt the need of such an institution, pointing out their
insurances against fire, earthquakes, cyclones, and several
other things, and that the loss sustained from all these put
together does not equal that suffered from burglarising,
against which there is at present no means of insurance.

W vf1 %F

fT)NCE more war rages between the big watch manufac-
ISJ turers. It is well known that John C. Dueber has
been fighting the watch trusts for several years, and
many in the trade consider they have to thank him for
many important and great reductions that have from time
to time been made in American watches. But whether it
is with the object of sending John C. Dueber to the wall
for ever, or whether from other causes, the Waltham and
the Elgin Companies have agreed to drop their 18-size
movement 20 per cent. This, of course, would be most
serious to holders of large stocks, but fortunately all jobbers
hold an agreement with the Elgin, by which they are pro-
tected against any reduction in prices which may from
time to time be made ; otherwise it would never have been
safe for them to carry large stocks. But as it is, both the
Elgin and Waltham will recoup all jobbers, which bounty
will be further extended to dealers also by the Waltham.
It will therefore fall rather hard upon dealers who happen
to have a large stock of Elgin watches on hand. It is
estimated that more than 100,000dols. is lost in
alone by the retailers.

«• * *

|N the other hand both the Elgin and Waltham Com-
panies repudiate all intention of opposition to John
C. Dueber. They assert that they have from time
time introduced new machinery which enables them
turn out watches in greater quantities, and hence
cheaper. This has had the effect of greatly reducing the
wages of some of the hands ; but they maintain that it is
merely a readjustment of prices, and that the men being
able to produce so many more of these in the same length
of time ought to receive so much less each.
* # *

fS a consequence of this 20 per cent, drop, other factories
have had to reduce the wages of their employes, at
rates varying from 2^ to 15 per cent. But in point
of fact as this drop only affects the 18-size " Raymond," a
line which other houses do not go in for, it need not
necessarily affect their specialities. The rebates made by
the Waltham and Elgin Companies, are said to run up to
nearly one and a half million dollars, a clean wipe out of
the profits for twelve months.

# # #
'ANY of the factories are behind in their orders,

especially John C. Dueber, who has met his liabilities
before they are due, and has enough orders on hand
to last him for months.

* * #

,@JT a recent meeting of the Retail Jewelers' Association
7§T of Missouri, the question of the Elgin National Watch
Company, " whether it would be advisable to place
Breguet hairsprings in low grade movements," was dis-
cussed, and answered in the negative.

Chicago

to
to

November 2, 1891.]

THE WATCHMAKER, JEWELER AND SILVERSMITH.

fN a recent case from Judge Ferguson, in'Philadelphia,
the Court made a statement of the value of stock in
the Elgin Watch Company. By this it appears that
the company had May 1st, 1880, capital stock to the
amount of 884,000dols., and surplus of 331, 451. 96dols., a
total of 1,215, 451.96dols. Up to the close of 1887 it had
increased its capital purely by stock dividends from profits
actually accruing to 3,000,000dols., and its surplus to
836,196.70dols., or a total of 3,S36,196.70dols. In addition
to this increase in capital and surplus from profits, being
2,620,744dols., or over 215 per cent, in seven years, there
had been a 10 per cent, cash dividend each year except
one, when 20 per cent, was divided. These dividends must
have amounted to at least another million, making the
total profit on the investment as it stood May 1st, 1880,
about 300 per cent, in seven years. It has now 3,074
employes on its pay roll.

# # *

\|/HE San Jose, Cal., Watch Factory is now an accom-
®1® plished fact, and it is expected to have their products
upon the market very shortly. It would do Britishers
good to read how the public-spirited papers tried to run
this enterprise on the grounds of the incalculable benefit
the county would receive from its existence. It would be
the making of the English watch trade if this public spirit,
would enter into the establishment of factories where money
could be turned over and earned, as illustrated in a fore-
going paragraph in connection with the Elgin. Should
such companies at -any time start, we should be pleased to
furnish them with extracts, which they would find of great
use.

Jf. jc. .v-

"TV* -?E- -7T

BURING this season one firm bought 12,000dols. of pearls
found in the rivers of Wisconsin, and North Illinois.
Lately the low water in some of these rivers has
tempted many a farmer to roll up his breeches, or don a
" mac," and wade through the waters, often, no doubt,
when he had better have been attending to his crops.

5/p ijp ^p

(7T S showing the interest the European manufacturers
7§t of jewelry are taking in the World's Fair, one firm
alone will have on exhibition goods to the value of
800,000dols., a colossal sum, surely. This firm will have
in its exhibit one silver piece the value of which alone is
25,000dols. Another firm will send to the exposition
400,000dols. worth of its manufactures.

* * #

VT7HE adventuress, best known as Mrs. Olivia Yancy,
eji9 though she has numerous aliases, was a lady of striking
appearance, being always dressed in deep mourning,
while her pale handsome face and white hair made an un-
usual contrast to her sable gown. In the spring of last year
she landed in New York with a Mongolian holding a grey peli-
can by a light gold chain. As Mrs. Yancy was apparently a
lady of wealth nothing was thought of her strange pet and its
keeper, and as pelicans are not upon the tariff lists she was
allowed to pass. Since that time the lady has crossed the
Atlantic many times, and always carried her pelican with
her. On Tuesday last she arrived as usual with the bird,
and, having passed the unsuspicious Customs officials,
called a carriage and drove away. Since then she has not
been heard from. It now appears that Mrs. Yancy was a
diamond smuggler, and that the precious stones she
brought into the country upon each trip were concealed in
the enormous bill of the pelican. The bird carried
30,000dols. worth of diamonds, being a portion of
an order of a Chicago house through a firm of New
York importers, who claim to have been ignorant of the
manner in which the stones were brought into the country.
The Chicago house had advanced 10,000dols. upcn the
diamonds, and were to have paid the remaining 20,000
dols. on delivery. The police are now actively searching
f _>r the lady anl her pelican.

^ancjom 52>rl effete.

The applications of photography are increasing daily.
Recently a German perfected a process for photographing
the internal organs of a living being. How far this will
be a success remains to be seen ; but it is reported that
numerous experiments have been made with it, which are
quite satisfactory. Should the possibility of such a thing
be established, few greater boons will be accorded the
physician.

Electric lighting for fishing is coming much more into
operation. The , fishermen of San Diego, Cal., have
recently introduced the incandescent lights into their nets,
which attract the fish, and, moreover, render them visible,
so that the men know when to haul. It is said they are
making enormous catches.

The Cardiff Corporation have accepted the tender, of
Messrs. Barry and Son for the erection of a four-faced
clock for the Market Buildings at a cost of £42. We hope
the advertisement will pay !

The inland revenue authorities are bestirring themselves
a bit again, and a number of convictions have recently been
obtained for selling plate without a proper licence. Messrs.
J. and W. Whitham, Jewelers, of Bingley, were fined £10
:and costs for selling a gold albert of 2 ozs. 11 dwts. whilst
only holding the minor or 2 oz. licence.

In another case at Liverpool, a retired sea captain,
who held the minor licence (and who had been cautioned
against selling watches with cases over 2 ozs., and had
promised not to do so again), was fined only half the
amount of the foregoing. Why this was can, perhaps, be
better explained by the respective judges.

At Falkirk, David Ure, Watchmaker, was fined £2 6s.,
or fourteen days' imprisonment, for selling a silver chain,
his licence having expired in July.

According to the last report of the Marine Department
of the Board of Trade the number of persons who presented
themselves for examination for masters' and mates' certifi-
cates of competency during the year was 4,688. Thirty-
two were rejected as not being sufficiently able to dis-
tinguish colors out of 600 examined for colors only. Some
curious and interesting results are brought out which show
' how indispensably necessary is this trial of color vision in
all who are connected with lights and colors. As an illus-
tration we quote the following : — Pink glass was described
by 177 as red, 90 green, 179 yellow, 6 neutral, 3 blue,
7 white, 80 other colors. Bottle green — 391 red, 7 pink,
92 yellow, 15 neutral, 4 blue, 5 pale blue, 52 white, 31 other
colors.

A youth named Thomas Smith, an apprentice at Mr.
Gardiner's, Broad Street, Reading, was cleaning an old-
fashioned clock a few weeks ago, when, to his amazement,
he discovered seven pounds in gold, wrapped in separate
pieces of paper, among the works. Smith forthwith
apprised the foreman of the discovery. The clock, it
appears, belonged to an old man at Caversham, and after
his death the owner (a poor woman) took it to be repaired,
and called for it at the time appointed, when she was in-
formed of the discovery. She was greatly delighted with
the valuable timepiece and the money it contained, and
offered to leave a portion of the treasure for the benefit of
those employed at the establishment.

The Eastbourne Town Council have considered a largo
number of tenders for the proposed Town Hall clock, and
it has been decided to ask the Council to accept that of
Messrs. Gillett and Johnson, of Croydon, for the execution
of the work in all respects as specified for the sum of £700,
and that the Town Clerk prepare the necessary agreements.

A visitor, who was fishing off Deal Pier recently,
brought up a gold watch and chain on his hook. It is
supposed to be one lost off the pier on Bank Holiday last. '

THE WATCHMAKER, JEWELER AND SILVERSMITH. [November 2, 1891.

-<3

T requires no very old man to recall the time
when there were quite a number of prominent
firms in the trade which considered window
display quite beneath their dignity, and it
requires no prophet to predict the time
when they will belong entirely to the past.
One by one, as new blood has been incor-
porated into those of them which have retained their
supremacy, digressions have been made from the old customs,
while colossal fabrics have been raised up upon the new
lines. It is, however, no more than one would expect that
when such firms turned their attention to window-display,
they should have produced something out of the
ordinary line of things — as much ahead of the rest of the
trade displays as they considered themselves in business.
I have known a firm to spend £200 upon the fitting up of
its windows, and yet be the very people to change their
windows the most frequently, and I might add, what is
infinitely more important, make the most by them and sell
the most from them. Indeed, there are left now only one
or two firms whose business is of such a nature as to be*
able to dispense with window display. We believe the
Parisians were the first to realise the importance of reforma-
tion, and with the suggestions and assistance of the
delicate hand of madame, first learned to appreciate what
we conceive to be the first axiom in the display of goods,
viz. : —

Every article should be associated by surroundings that doit
justice — that distinguish it, that enhance the beauty of its
appearance.

Every picture requires a background, every painting a
frame, and every figure looks best when gracefully draped.
There can be no denying that window-dressing is an art,
based upon principles which underlie Art in its higher
realms ; and although accidental blunderings sometimes
give charming results, the same action far more often
produces monstrosities, which subvert the very object
sought in window display. I am fully aware that after all
a great deal turns upon what we call taste ; but — .
What then is taste, but thosa internal powers,
Active and strong, and feelingly alive
To each fine impulse — a discerning sense
Of decent and sublime, with quick disgust
For things deformed, or disarranged, or gross
In species ?

The chief object of these articles, however, is not an essay
on the principles of High Art, but the furnishing of a frame-
work for each individual to develop his own capabilities. I
shall therefore endeavor to confine myself to practical
suggestions, and supply the material with which those
results can be obtained.

We need not confine our remarks to the upper stratum
of the trade ; it concerns and applies to the very bottom
stratum in no less degree. Time was when all that was

thought necessary for a watchmaker's display was a dirty
window, several rows of old watches, suspended by
extemporised hooks from a bar or two, with dirty tabs,
bearing the names of the owners. But all this is changed,
or fast changing, and one would now only expect to find
behind such an exhibition an old son of the Black Forest,
puffing away at a huge German pipe. The populace
have gradually become repelled by such a state of things,
by comparison with that which is developing elsewhere.
Remember, nothing in nature stands still, nothing is
constant. It is all evolution or retrogression ; and popular
taste forms no exception. A state of things which satisfied
a quarter of a century ago would now be passed by
unnoticed ; and the success of the most successful men of
to-day, is to be attributed to their appreciation of the great
secret of modern business — Keep pace with the times.

If you are on the lowest round of the ladder, you need
not remain there ; nor need you necessarily be dirty and
disreputable. Make the best of what you have, and it will
soon attract attention, and the attention business.

Perhaps, after all, the most important classes numerically
are those which are neither the highest nor the lowest. It
is they who represent every phase of the question, starting
from the more humble lower, and passing on, by insensible
gradations, to the higher. It will, therefore, be necessary
to dwell very fully upon this portion of our subject.

Owing to what we regard as our second axiom, or what
is, perhaps, only an extension of the first, viz.,

Windows must vary with neighborhoods.
We shall have every neighborhood to cater for,
every possible description of window calling for
attention, according to its environment and the
circumstances of the owner. A class of window which
would be tolerated in the Strand or Cheapside might
be perfectly incongruous in Bond Street. The class of
goods would be altogether different, and necessarily the
windows would differ also. An oil painting and a water-
color, although equally meritorious, would require frames
and mounts of very different descriptions. It is, therefore,
not with the object of unduly lauding Bond Street that I
point out these indisputable facts. So different is the
nature of the trade of certain neighborhoods, and the
manner in which it is done, that a man who might be
qualified to make a fortune in one of them would be ruined
in the other.

Following closely upon this is another axiom, which
demands harmony not only with locality but with time.

Let all articles shown be seasonable.

Do not dress a window with salad bowls, soda stands,
and ice pails when it is snowing hard ; but with things
suggestive of warmth and comfort. From January to
December, specialise. Always have seasonable specialties.
Take advantage of every season that comes round to make a
show of seasonable goods ; and when there is no season,
make one by the introduction of some " novelty " — novelty
of article or novelty of price, novelty of any sort or any
thing. If you have nothing new, put an old article in a
new place. There is always an insatiable desire in the
public for something new. Always endeavor to assist the
benevolent, they must be appealed to all the year round
with christening — birthday — and wedding — presents,
" expressions of friendship," " expressions of thanks," and as
the seasons roll round, with Christmas presents, new year's
gifts, and Easter offerings.

Do not put things into a window in a hap-hazard sort of
manner, totally regardless of order.

Kettle your plan before you begin.

Have an idea of the effect you are aiming at ; let it have
a definite design and order. It need not be symmetrical
so long as there is something definite and visible, some
result aimed at. It may be confusion itself, and yet a
glance may show order and design in the very confusion,
and the tout ensemble be effective, attractive, and pleasing.
( To be continued. )

November 2, 1891.]

THE WATCHMAKER, JEWELER AND SILVERSMITH.

Watch and Block Making.

(Continued from page 52.)

a^r^ooeivS) ancj Rote<§> to Que&fior^ ^et at ffte
0>it^ anc} <S[uifc}j(«> o£ "boaelo^ <#nit>titute
' &£amination*«>.

By I. Herrmann,

Director of the Polytechnic School of Watch and Clock Making

(II.) — Advanced Paper, 1880.
UESTION (7).— What method is usually
adopted for ascertaining whether a fusee is
so cut as to correspond exactly with the
varying strength of the mainspring ?

Answer. — The object of the fusee is to
produce an equal "motive moment" with
reference to the great wheel, hence the radii
of any point from which the chain leads off should vary
inversely as the pull of the spring. To test whether this
holds good in any given fusee, a method of "counter
moments " is applied to the fusee arbor; that is, a rod,
called the adjusting rod, is attached to the fusee arbor,
and perpendicular to its axis, with a sliding weight (some-
times two) which can be clamped in any position. The
initial position of the weight is so determined that it
just balances the pull of the spring on the first turn, and
then the pull of the spring at any other point is compared
with this one. Generally, within certain limits, the
moments of the spring can be made approximately uniform
by setting the spring up or letting it down, as the first will
diminish the ratio of increase in the pull, and the latter
will increase it.

Remarks. — There was a period in the history of watch-
making, and not a very remote one, when it was thought
that the uniform performance of a watch was secured by
the application of a fusee, and inseparable from it. Ex-
perience as regards the going barrel has demonstrated
that these ideas were not altogether sound, but I think that
the conclusions of those who think that everything can be
secured from the going barrel that were or can be obtained
by the use of a fusee are equally unsound. It is not an un-
common experience that " certificated watches " disappoint
wearers. The reason is plainly this : the timing of a watch
for vertical and horizontal positions in which the motive
power remains constant is a different thing from the timing
of one where the latter varies, as in a going barrel ; for in
that case the tendency to lose during the period of
diminished impulse force is greater, and this tendency in-
creases with time ; that is, in proportion as the resistance
due to friction increases. In a watch which is clean and
runs under most favorable conditions, and which is only
observed for mean periods, the effect is small, and hence
no provisions for this error need be made ; but a watch
so timed will develop tendencies quite inconsistent
with the character earned at the trial. On the con-
trary, a watch that is timed, with a view to make the
time of the vibrations indepedent of the effect of the
thickening of oil, ■ must have not only a gaining rate
in the vertical positions but one which has a greater gain-
ing rate as the spring develops ; but such a provision
would cause it to come off second best in the early days of a
watch's lease, hence the very thing necessary for correct or
good performance has to be neglected for a temporary
object, and hence the reason for the experience referred to.
Now in a fusee this secondary liability to variation —
that is, by reason of variation of impulse force and conse-
quent energy of balance motion — does not exist with one
important exception, and that exception includes all fusees
where the pressure on the pivots of the fusee is the sum
of the pull on the chain and power transmitted to centre
pinion, for with the fusee under such conditions the ten-

dencies to variations as the oil dries up are nearly as great
as those referred to in the going barrel — as is proved by
the experience of many jobbers, that a lever watch loses
as it gets clogged. A fusee should be so arranged, that the
chain leads off between the centre pinion and fusee arbor.
The advantage of this can be tested in a few seconds, for in
the latter case the end-shake of the fusee can be tried with a
weak pair of tweezers, but in the former it requires a strong
pair of pliers when the spring is wound up, from which
the frictional effect on the fusee pivots as time goes on
can be readily inferred, and is proved to those experienced
in jobbing.

It is remarkable that the experiences as regards the
going barrel have brought about no revolution in the mode
of English clock-making, for it is more easy to regulate a
clock without a fusee than a watch. If the cost of a fusee
in an English clock were divided in a little more attention
to pinions and pallets, quite as good a result would be
, obtained, and a number of inconveniences and liabilities
avoided, and they would have better chance of competition
with imported clocks.

Question (8). — How can an approximately uniform motive
force be secured when a going barrel is employed ?

Answer. — The only method for securing uniform motive
power, that will remain uniform for any length of time, is
that due to a mainspring which has a considerable number
- of marginal turns. The relative radii in a clock or (Marine)
chronometer fusee show that the variation in the pull of
the spring is less as the force increases, hence if a few of the
last turns are utilised only an approximate uniformity is
secured. The other various methods resorted to, such as
diminishing the thickness of outer coil, softening a por-
tion of the outer end, a pivoted hooking, an oscillating
bar, a travelling hook, are all based on coil friction, so that
increase of pressure between the coils neutralises the in-
creased pull of the spring. The disadvantage of any
adjustment by frictional pressure consists in the fact that
it is unreliable, and is subject to immense variation in
effect, and therefore all such methods are worthless, for
the variations they may, and mostly do, develop are far
lj greater than those they are supposed to neutralise.

Question (9). — Enumerate the successive stages in the
action of the Chronomoter Escapement ?

Answer. — Starting with the zero point of the balance
spring, and the relieving pallet on the opposite side of the
detent to that of the relieving spring, as the initial position
of the balance, the action is as follows : — The balance
moving in a direction opposite to that of the escape wheel,
in reference to the line of centres as ordinate, displaces the
relieving spring without disturbing the position of the
escape wheel, which is blocked by the detent pallet in such
a position that the line of centres just bisects the angle,
contained between two adjacent teeth of the escape wheel.
On the return motion of the balance the relieving pallet
displaces the detent, and releases the escape wheel at the
instant when the impulse pallet has passed within the
periphery of the escape wheel, the detent becomes disen-
gaged from the relieving pallet, and returns to its initial
position of rest against the stop-screw before the completion
of impulse, so as to arrest the escape wheel as it
becomes disengaged from the impulse roller. With the
termination of the supplementary arc of the balance the
action is repeated.

(To be continued.)

Beating the Recom.

The output of gold from the Witwatersrand is running
up now very fast, amounting to 65,601 ozs. for September.
In September of 1890 it was 45,467 ozs., so that if things
go on at the present rate of increase the prophecy of some
will be realised, and the Randt output will figure the grand
total of 100,000 ozs. a month. We fear, however, this will
not be this year now.

THE WATCHMAKER, JEWELER AND SILVERSMITH. ; [November 2, 1891.

ffte (^rLj^taffograp^Lj of (SjemA,

By the Editor.
(Continued from page 72.)

The Monoclinic System. — Continued.
The Natural Forms of Euclase.

C22S"-"-'

HE Euclase is a rare, but nevertheless beau-
tiful quiet gem, and commands an exces-
sively high price. Its name is derived from
two Greek words signifying easily to break.
This property of brittleness is one reason
why it is so rarely cut. It is a fairly hard
gem, and possesses a very high lustre and a
color suit ranging from colorless, through yellows, to moun-
tain-green and blue. The most simple forms are prisms
on rhombic bases, more or less perfect, but usually some-
what irregular in outline such as a, b, c. Fig. 49.

It is usually very deeply striated longitudinally,
the striations often obliterating the faces. The majority
of crystals well illustrate the result of the inclination of the
chnodiagonal axis. Fig. 50 is a splendid example of this ;
it is from this reason that the basal plane (which in the
previously described systems is always at right angles to
the plane of the prism) is inclined to it, and instead of
standing at an angle of 90°, stands at 79° 44". And
further, it will be seen that domes occurring in the direction
of the orthodiagonal axis form hemidomes, which meeting
with the basal plane appear to form a pyramidal termina-
tion to the crystal. Basal planes do not often occur, but
when they do, if a crystal is- stood upon one of them, it
appears to be toppling over forward ; however, that is the
natural position of the gem, and bearing this in mind will
greatly facilitate the reading of it. The consequence of
the orthodomes meeting the basal plane in this manner is
a distinguishing feature in this system. The only plane of
symmetry being along the chnodiagonal axis, or a plane
passing through the vertical and inclined axes ; in it faces are
all symmetrically disposed. But in any other plane this
symmetrical arrangement does not obtain, the faces above
the centre differing from those below it, and we get the top
faces dissimilar from those at the bottom. Those at the
top front are represented at the back of the bottom, and
vice rend those at the top back are represented in the front
at the bottom. Returning to the description of Fig. 50 we
notice the centre prismatic face to lie parallel to the chno-
diagonal axis ; it is therefore a clinopinacoid. The lines at
the lateral extremities show the positions of the ortho-
pinacoids which, if sufficiently developed, would meet the
clinopinacoids and form a rectangular prism; but, coming
upon what would be the edges of such a prism we get other
faces largely developed, and these, we might also remark,
if developed to the extinction of the other planes would
result in a prism on a rhombic base, the angles or edges of
which would cut both lateral axes at unity. There is
further another set of prism faces present which come
between the edges of the last two, cutting the chnodiagonal
axis at a little less distance. The variation of the length
of the lateral axes gives rise to many faces on the prism
which may or may not be followed by hemi-orthodomes or
hemi-octahedra. When the prismatic faces are short, or

wanting, crystals assume a very facetted appearance,
frequently the faces of quite a number of prisms evenly
developed are present, terminated by faces of great
regularity such as Fig. 51.

- The name Epidote was applied by Haiiy to a somewhat
large group which, as he said " a regit un accroissement," the
base of the prism being longer on one side than the other.
The description of these varieties belong rather to descrip-
tive gemmology than crystallography. There is, however,
at least one species that is crystallographically distinct,
viz., Zoisite. The others include Piedmontite, Allanite,
Thallite, Delphenite, Oisanite, Puschkinite, Escharite,
Withamite, Beustite, and several others . varying from all
shades of green through bright emerald green (Pusch-
kinite), yellows, carmines (Withamite), orange red, browns,
grays, and whites, their general chemical type being
similar, although their respective ingredients vary consider-
ably as well as their physical properties. Ordinary
epidote is usually of a characteristic sort of dark bottle or
pistachio green, sometimes tinted, at others shaded.
Although many forms appear extremely simple at first
sight, they do not prove such upon examination, but they
are very easily distinguished from any other gem. They are
generally extremely lustrous on each of their surfaces, the
longitudinal striations sometimes making them quite fibrous
in their appearance. Fig. 52 is one of the simple forms,
its chisel-shape aspect is very striking, which is even more
so in Fig. 53, a form in which whole groups frequently
occur, sometimes running down like the steps of a ladder.
There is apparently quite an absence of pyramidal faces.

The Natural Forms of Epidote.

The ends present the uniform appearance of having been
chamfered off obliquely, in exactly opposite directions, one
of which largely predominates. These terminal faces are
extremely highly lustrous, and few would realise they had
not been well cut and polished, only that the superlative
edges are so true and fine. This group, of which Fig. 53

■ is one, has a quality which I am tempted to mention, viz.
its axechroism ; in one direction it is a beautiful rich red-
dish-brown, in another it is yellow, while in a third it is
peridot green. But the crystalline forms of this gem are

'by no means so simple in their entirety ; indeed, I cannot
call to mind another species that is favored with such an
extensive crystallographic literature. Fig. 54 is by no
means the most complicated form. They are considered as
extended along the diagonal axes, becoming horizontal
prisms ; the large front face would be an orthopinacoid,
which would be inclined to the base. It is a little difficult
to see this figure in an outline drawing, but the zigzag line
on the right represents the girdle, and faces above and
below are pyramidal faces. I might mention that my
friend Mr. W. Semmons, " one of the first mineralogists of
the day," has recently become the possessor of a group of
probably the largest epidotes ever heard of, one measuring
over a foot in length.

A characteristic feature in the month's police-courts is
the number of cases where thieves have been stopped by
pawnbrokers ; but although so plentiful, we suppose they
Avill be quite overlooked by those who regard the Knights
of the Golden Balls as little better than fences.

Noyejibes 2, 1391.1

THE 'WATCHMAKER, JEWELER AND SILVERSMITH.

(Ufte ©iamoniL iJiefiU.

(By Vaalite.)

EOPLE now seem once more to be
settling down — holiday-making folks
are returning by the hundred, and
soon we may expect judges in court
and legislative assemblies actively
engaged. We may then except to
know the destiny of what probably
concerns most of your readers more
than anything else, viz., the Premier
Diamond Mine. Owing to the legislation which is still pend-
ing, things are practically as they were when I last wrote.
Messrs. Ward and Armstrong are finding well, and the
powerful operations of Major Wollaston are, if need be,
daily emphasising the fact that we have in the
Premier probably the richest, and certainly the largest,
diamond mine in the world. Major Wollaston is still
employing four sets of gear, and in six days he obtained
2,400 carats of diamonds, valued at 28s. per carat ; while
the price of De Beers stuff is about 24s. Every hundred
loads average about 25 carats, or about quarter carat a load.
Although this is not a high amount, the material is in
such a condition that it can be handled so as not to cost more
than one shilling per load. The mine, too, can be worked
the cheapest of any, as it contains practically no floating
reef, thereby differing from others, especially mines like
the St. Augustine. There is an absence at present of
large stones, which is possibly owing to their being stolen
through the open system of working. Mr. Ward receives
10 per cent, of his finds. A telegram from London was
received here the other day, which, although it con-
tained a very startling announcement, did not take the
people by much surprise, stating that the De Beers had
bought up the claim of Ward for £175,000. Before many
hours had passed, however, the secretary of the De Beers
out here wrote officially to the . paper which published
the news, to say that it was perfectly untrue. Since my
last the De Beers have held their third annual meet-
ing at Kimberley. Mr. Rhodes being away, the chair was
occupied by the next prominent man, viz., Mr. Barnato.
He had some stupendous figures to present, and spoke
with great confidence of the future of the company,
stating that whilst the 20 per cent, which they were now
paying was a good dividend, he was sure they would shortly
be in aposition to pay 30 or 40 per cent. The profits of the
year were £1,907,095, and a large reserve fund was being
established, which he hoped would soon reach a million
sterling, as they had now a cash balance of £717,000,
besides setting aside money for the redemption of the
debentures due last August and in January, 1894. Estimating
the blue in sight at De Beers and Kimberley at 7,000,000
loads, and that on the floors at 1,500,000 loads, he con-
sidered it might be recovered as an asset at considerably
over £8,000,000. The company had invested in 210,000
shares of the Chartered Company at par, which he thought
a very fortunate investment, thus paying a high tribute to
the prospects of the Chartered Company, with which
they will probably become more and more connected.
The De Beers Company have promised a £100 trophy
for the Griqualand West Rifle Association. The ex-
hibition of which I have previously spoken is to be
known as the South African International, and is pushing
along in real good earnest, and promising to be of supreme
interest to the colony. The sectional committees have been
formed, and all matters connected with the diamond in-
dustry bid fair to receive the lion's share of attention.
Let us hope, however, that the collections will not suffer,
as the diamond exhibit of the Cape Town Museum has,
been, I regret to say, bodily stolen.

Prospecting is still going on in many quarters, amongst
which I might mention one on the Government estate
adjoining Kimberley, where what appears good yellow has
been proved.

Luck has fallen upon the Koffyfontein Company, who have
found a stone up to 136 weight. You may remember they
recently amalgamated. It was on the old Pioneer claim
that the stone was found. Jagersfontein still continues to
supply a fair amount ; during August it produced 7,583£-
carats valued at £13,800, a price it will be seen far in
advance of De Beers. Indeed, the excellence of river stones
stimulates searchers in the direction of river deposits ; ac-
cordingly we get numerous accounts of various river
deposits, many of which show that work is going on, and
that finds are really being made. Work at the North-
Eastern Bultfontein continues about the same, turning out
about 1,100 or 1,200 carats a week; whilst the increase of
.blue upon the floors is about ten times as many loads, most
of their work being upon re-washings. Things are also
looking promising with the Gordon Company again, and
it strikes me they are in for something that will turn out
well.

Mr. Lawson, M.P., one of the directors of the London
and South African Exploration Company, which, as you are
aware, is the landlord of several of the large mines, has
been out here, but nothing was done by way of granting
eases for debris washings or prospecting.

fte ©[emrnmg anil Mining Company o{?
(Ueijfon.

HE Second Ordinary General Meeting of this
Company, which was held at their offices,
183 and 184, Gresham House, E.C., on the
15th ult., manifests how careful one ought
to be in entering into any of these gem-
mining speculations. This company was
started with a nominal capital of £100,000, to work
certain gem pits, and in their twelve months' operations
they have the sale of £189 lis. 3d. worth of gems to
chronicle ; while the expenses and cost of labor run into a
good size fourth figure. Obviously had it not been for the
enterprise of the managers in Ceylon, who turned over a
few hundreds in mica and plumbago mining and letting
some of the lands for tea-growing, the state of the com -
pany would have been disastrous. As it is, they show a
deficit on the year's working of over three thousand pounds,
and have now practically turned their back upon gem-
mining for the present, and hope to develope the mica and
plumbago ; freely admitting that the natives who work for
them are- one too much for them, that, do all they can, the
rascals will manage to steal the stones. We have previously
described these gem deposits as being practically similar
, to our river gravels, called by the natives Ulan. This
material is dug out, either in open workings or mined for.
There are nearly two thousand such workings in the island,
and when it is remembered that the natives who work at these
are satisfied if they get a couple of meals of rice a day,
with the chance of getting hold of a decent stone to make
a harvest out of, it is practically impossible fcr a company,
with all its expensive paraphernalia of directors, London
offices and officers, to compete with natives who can work
under these conditons.

The action brought by Mr. William Cook, jewelers'
factor of Birmingham, for £1,500 for slander against Mr.
Samuel Wilkinson, jeweler, of Bradford, has resulted in a
verdict for the defendant. Readers will doubtless remember
that Mr. Wilkinson was under the impression that a ring
in his stock bearing a forged hall-mark had been bought of
Mr. Cook. It is a pity for all parties concerned a better
stock book was not kept.

THE WATCHMAKER, JEWELER AND SILVERSMITH.

[November 2, 1891.

iJfie MarlCet^.

DIAMONDS.

During the past month the supply of rough brought
over into the London market was about up to the usual.
There were a few Americans and Russians that bought
well, especially the former. The Dutch, who appeared
here in large numbers both from Amsterdam and Antwerp,
perhaps consumed by far the greater quantity of medium
stuff. Prices were fully maintained, except perhaps in
the higher grades of stuff, where a little giving way on the
part of the sellers was noticeable. Still, for all that, any-
thing at all fine still commands extravagant prices.

In Paris business was fairly brisk during the whole of
the month. Americans bought largely in anticipation
of a great fall trade consequent upon their phenomenal
crops. For this trade the buying was in cut stuff, both
brilliants and roses, with, if anything, a slight advance in
prices. The Russians also paid a visit to the French
capital, and made some important purchases.

In Amsterdam, despite the reports lately circulated to
the contrary, all the factories were running full work ;
indeed, had it not been for the large number of men pre-
viously unemployed, or only partially employed, the rush
could hot have been met ; for, as it was, they could hardly
get sufficient hands. Unfortunately, however, a number
of the diamond cutters are turning their attention to other
occupations, so that it is not so easy to get men to meet
a rush. The stuff mostly in demand was small and
medium for Russia and Poland, not that Poland goes in
for many luxuries just now, but the merchants of both the
above places have connections in Persia and Northern
India, where most other goods find a market. The fac-
tories are all still running full time, and let us hope the
market will not be over when the goods are ready. Up to
the present prices have been a little higher. The limiting
of the supply of rough makes all anxious to buy what they
can, even if only to cut and sell without a loss. Both
France and America have been well represented in the
Dutch market for finished goods, and have made numerous
good purchases.

SILVER.

Silver opened in October at 45d, which it maintained
for a few days, when a fall to 44 3-16ths occurred, and with
slight alterations during the whole month remained fairly
steady, without altering the second figure ; at going to
press it was 44 l-8th.

COPPER.

Copper, which begun at £51 5s. for G. M. B., has been
" climbing down " ever since, and at going to press was
£44 7s. 6d.

TIN.

Tin has been subject to " ups and downs" during the
month, commencing at £91 and touching £92, but at other
times there was a difference of 30s., standing now at
£90 10s.

SPELTER

Spelter has been very constant, averaging 123 10s.

QUICKSILVER.
Quicksilver opened at £7 10s., and has varied from
that to £8.

3*Ss€r

Owing to overcrowding this month, we are obliged to
postpone the continuation of matters commenced last
month.

At Bradford Quarter Sessions Edwin Thomas, a hawker
was charged with breaking into Nos. 209 and 211, West-
gate, and stealing a quantity of jewelry and other articles,
and was sentenced to nine months' imprisonment, and two
years' police supervision.

S^rifi(S>fi Jforofogieaf (^rK^fifufe.

At the first meeting of the council of the above Institu-
tion after the vacation, the following committees for the
ensuing year were formed : —
Class Visitors .-—Messrs. T. Hewitt, V.P., C. Dunn, V.P.,

H. P. Isaac, J. V. Pool, and A. W. Webb.
Repairers' Certificate Committee: — Messrs. J. Bolton, Smith,

Bray, and Buggins.
Finance Committee: — Messrs. C. Dunn, V.P., Bray, Bridg-

man, Desbois, Etchells, Troup, and Webb.
House : — Messrs. Jas. Haswell, H.P. Isaac, and Philip

Woodman.
Class Continuation Committee: — Messrs. Buckney, V.P.,
\ Dunn, V.P., Howell, V.P., and Barnsdale.

Correspondence Class. — Through the courtesy of the exam-
iners we have been privileged from time to time to see the
manner in which this class is conducted, and it is impos-
sible to speak too highly, either of the usefulness or man-
agement of it, especially to men in country places away
from all centres. This self-imposed task of the examiners
is a most arduous one, and their action in entering upon it,
heroic. The work is carried out in such a manner as to
make one feel envious of them. Those who are desirous of
taking advantage of it, and wish to prepare themselves for
the forthcoming examination of the City and Guild's Insti-
tute in April next in watch and clockmaking, or for the
clerical portion of the repairers' examination, should join the
class at once. Full particulars will be furnished on appli-
cation to the Secretary, Horological Institute, Northamp-
ton Square, Clerkenwell, E.C.

A new, important, and unquestionably valuable feature
added to the classes of the institute this year is one on
goldsmiths' work. It will be conducted on Wednesday
'evenings from 8 till 9, by Mr. Harry Stapelton, and com-
menced on October 14th. The instruction afforded will
embrace the principles and methods of manufacturing the
various kinds and styles of personal jewelry ; the exhibition
and description of the tools generally used ; the simpler gold
alloys and their solders, together. with the various methods
adopted in finishing gold work. Special lectures will also
be given dealing with the subjects of chasing, engraving and
^enamelling. The course will also include other informa-
tion likely to be of special advantage to all engaged in the
various branches of the trade. Fee for the Course of
Thirty Lectures, 5s. Members of the Institute will be
admitted without charge.

0foc»C an<\ ©ydeft MaKW eA^um.

A special general meeting of the subscribers of the above
institution was held, on October 19th, at the Horological
-, Institute, 35, Northampton Square, E.C. Mr. T. Baxter
(chairman of the, committee) presided at the meeting, the
object of which was the election of two male inmates out
of a list of seven candidates. A large poll resulted in the
selection of Mr. T. J. Gammage, aged sixty-eight, of 7,
Clarendon Road, Tottenham, N. ; and Mr. R. M. Ball,
aged seventy-one, of 31, Sudeley Street, Islington, to each
of whom was allotted a house upon the property of the
charity at New Southgate. Votes of thanks to the
scrutineers and the chairman closed the proceedings.

At Nottingham Robert Smith, 61, caretaker to Miss
Beresford, jeweler, Nottingham, was sentenced to nine
calendar months' imprisonment for stealing jewelry, etc.,
to the amount of £200. ■ It appears that it has been
customary upon locking up the shop to put the key in an
envelope and place it in the care of Smith, who resided in
the upper part of the premises, who, on the last occasion,
entered the shop and ,took out about £200 of goods, and
began immediately to pawn them.

November 2, 1S91.]

WATCHMAKER, JEWELEB AND SILVEESMITII.

Maee for ©fu^feri^ge &f/e??6>.

(jT VEEY fine silver gilt mace has just been presented to
jll the Borough of Tunbridge Wells by Aldermen Pink
and Jackson. The order was entrusted to Messrs.
T. and J. Bragg, of Birmingham, who have carried out
the work in their well-known style. The mace is nearly
four feet in length, and, following the example of some of
the finest ancient maces, it has the Eoyal arms at the
summit, finely modelled and enamelled in proper heraldic
colors, while they are again shown on the cover of the
vase portion of the head. Around the border of the head
come a series of Maltese crosses and fieurs-de-Us alternat-
ing, similar to those on the Eoyal crown. The vase part
of the head is divided by Gothic canopies, below which
come, on the obverse and reverse, the arms of the Borough
of Tunbridge Wells, and at the sides the arms of Sussex
and Kent, the town being partly in each county. The
whole of these arms are given in correct heraldic colors in
enamel, and produce a very beautiful effect. Supporting
the head from the handle are rich scroll foliations with
Tudor roses. There are four knops at various intervals on
the haudle, all richly decorated ; the first and second
having a wreath of English oak, while the upper portion
of the third one is occupied by the enamelled monogram
of the first Mayor (J. Stone Wigg, Esq., J.P.) On the
reverse of this is given the inscription, as follows : — " This
mace was presented to the Borough of Tunbridge Wells by
Alderman Hori Pink and Alderman Philip Jackson. 2nd
October, 1891." Between the knops are elaborate scrolls
twining down the whole length of the mace, except the
portion by which it is to be held. On these scrolls are
three flowing series of decoration in repousse, one having
the hop plant, as relating to the characteristic production ,
of Kent ; another band having emblems specially relating
to the fruit which is so abudantly produced in the county ;
while the third has a combined representation of the town
and the two counties in which it is situated, viz. : The Lion
emerging from a well, having a fountain in his paws,
forming the crest of the Borough ; the Esculapian staff,
symbolic of the art of healing, and relating to the town as
a health resort ; the Flying Horse of Kent and the Five
Birds of Sussex. The mace is placed in a very handsome
oak case.

Discovery of Valuable Pearls.

The Western Australian Pearl Fisheries, which have
developed so largely of late years, especially since tlie time
when the attention of Messrs. Hayse, Chippendale, and
Harry Streeter was first directed towards them, have lately
been producing some very fine gems. A telegram states
that "some pearls have been found valued at £1,000."
Whether this means the sum total of the find, or that more
than one has been found valued at £1,000 each, we cannot
say ; probably, however, the latter is the case. We have
seen several from here which realised more than this, and
recollect a very fine one found in the early days of the
bank, that was simply perfect. It weighed 30 grains, and
realised £1,000 in the trade, being afterwards bought for the
virgin necklace of the Czarina.

#TeiTL& o{? <#rvTere,&£.

In May last we were informed that 200 sets of
XTra^T*'i\ir1' mterchangeable movements had been sent out
*e«- to Gore to be made up into watches. One of
Zealand. our subscribers informs us that we were mis-
informed, although we thought our information was not
likely to be so. He tells us that he sent from Gore an
order for " 200 pairs of blanks, or watch plates, and other
rough metals and materials — not 200 movements — to make
into watches at Gore, on an interchangeable system,"
which he has worked out himself. He regards this as
marking a new industry in New Zealand, of which he, no
doubt, justly feels a little jealous.

* # #

Interesting experiments have recently been
. am made on the Lake of Zurich with a boat built

CT entirely of aluminum. The boat weighs only
about half a ton, or about half the weight of an
ordinary boat of the same size, It was built at the works
of Messrs. Escher Wyss and Co., of Zurich, the metal hav-
ing been furnished by the Aluminum Works, of Schaff-
hausen, where it is obtained by an electrolytic process,
xthe dynamos being driven by turbines, which utilise the
> Water power of the celebrated falls of the Ehine, so that the
boat is claimed to be exclusively the product of Swiss
labor and power. It carries eight persons, and, with a
petroleum engine of only two-horse, easily makes six miles
an hour. Aluminum not being subject to rust, the per-
manent color of the boat is a beautiful dull white, while
the chimney, being of polished aluminum, shines like
silver. The trial trips of the boat were eminently success-
ful, and it is anticipated that the construction of aluminum
steamers, having the same capacity and only half the
weight of the iron ones now used on Swiss lakes, has a
"great future before it.

* f [ #

It appears that Mr. Edison has for some time
jBicctric turned his attention to the wants of the mining
boxing, engineer, and amongst other things has pro-
duced an electric rock-boring drill. It is said
to be able to bore into the hardest rocks at the rate of three
inches a minute ; even if the figures were reversed it would
be a valuable invention. We have often wondered why
electricity has not been employed for this purpose before,
seeing how eminently it is suited for sharp, quick percus-
v sion, and its application must completely revolutionise
mining work.

. 46, J£. Ji.

TV* TP *JS

Although most of the British Colonies

»i«-wh,in«iiscPossess^no leeislative powers have adopted this
Miirks Act. Act, few appear to be enforcing it very rigidly.
In this, however, Hong Kong differs, in that
they have ordered the Superintendent of Customs to use
every effort to enforce it, giving him exceptional powers
to do so.

The Jdaho Qpal Mining Company.

A Company has now been formed to work the Opal
Mines of Idaho, the discovery of which we announced at
the time. One opal recently taken weighed 93 carats, and
is claimed to be of exceptional beauty and hardness.
Several New York gem dealers are connected with the
enterprise, but they have a colossal task to eclipse in quality
the late finds in Queensland, which we unhesitatingly say
are the finest the world has ever seen.

A lady, who for some years has carried on the business
of a diamond broker in the Eue de l'Universite, is being
sought after actively by the police, she having disappeared
from her usual habitation, together with 56,000f. worth of
precious stones, the property of other people. Several
diamond merchants had lodged valuable parcels of gems
with this unscrupulous person, and one of them, not feel-
ing quite sure of her trustworthiness, sent a clerk to re-
quest her to return the valuables. The fair broker asked
the young man to sit down, vanished into the next room,
and thence downstairs into the street, taking . with her
diamonds belonging to three different dealers.

100

THE WATCHMAKER, JEWELER AND SILVERSMITH. [November 2, 1891.

fhiincjs §je$/ and ||obeWorbhiL](

ft. Lantep^n ^Microscope.

R. R. G. MASON, Manufacturing Optician, of 69,
Park Road, Clapham, has just patented a lantern
microscope, which beats its competitors both
upon their own merits and also by incorporating several
new and important features. It is due to Mr. Mason
to say that he has discovered a solution to the difficulty
which is the worry of the scientific lecturer's life,

viz., of having an oxy-hydrogen lantern and an ordinary
student's microscope combined. This is the distinguishing
characteristic of the invention, and one which is claimed to
be entirely unique. The method of converting the
lantern into a table microscope is to slide the former (the
bulkier portion of Fig. 1) off its fitting and substitute the
stand depicted in Fig. 2. This stand is furnished
with the usual apparatus, which, of course, is varied accord-
ing to the requirements of the purchaser. It will be noticed

Great Improvement in Lenses.

Anything connected with the name of Dallinger natur-
ally suggests to one's mind a thing of sterling value. Of
such is the recent invention of Mr. T. R. Dallinger,
tabulated in our monthly list of applications for patents.
Although its specification is not yet published, we are
informed that it will be one of the most important
improvements that have ever been made in long distance
photography. Seeing the millions of stars that yet remain
to be taken, a great work may lay before the new lens.
Photographing birds and animals in a wild state by the
present methods involves great difficulties, winch are
entirely overcome by the new invention.

Non-tilting of Ptamond Earrings.

This month we give illustrations of another invention
recently brought out in America, for which a patent has
been applied. Its object is to keep a diamond earring
upright in position without affecting its mobility, while it
enters the ear with perfect ease, is quite safe when once in
position, and entails the least amount of necessary manipu-
lation. A glance at the engraving shows the principle of
its construction. Behind the upright back is a spring which
causes it to press tightly against the wire when closed. It
is probably the easiest managed thing that has been brought
out. Improvements could be made in it ; for instance, the
spring might be made to bolt over the " head " of wire.

jk. JJsi

ATALOGUE.

FiG.2

We have before us the new catalogue of Messrs. J.
Goode and Sons, occupied chiefly with what we shall
perhaps always associate him, viz., chain work, amongst
which are a great many comparatively new designs. There
are over fifty patterns of gent's alberts, and large quantities
of ladies' of every description, down to our old friends,
long guards. Chain fittings, eye-glass chains, and other
specialities claim a space in this handy and useful cata-
logue ; handy because there are so many things illustrated
in it, and useful because it is printed with no name or
prices. The printing, blocks, and general get-up are very
creditable, and it is a pattern for many others to follow.

on glancing at the stage that a new form of clip has been
introduced, which is worked by simply pressing down the
projection in the transverse rod, the clip being thus raised.
A firm hold of the objects is given by the spring under-
neath. The labels of the slides are not scratched with this
clip, and this is the reason (and a good one) for its intro-
duction. The instrument is specially adapted for photo-
micrography, and therefore the milled head is grooved to
take a small band. Another advantage is that any or-
dinary microscopic objective may be used, but the special
objectives made with very large apertures give the more
brilliant results, the definition being clear to the edge of
the field. Mr. Mason does not claim that his instrument
is specially adapted for the use of oil, but oil will be found
to be good enough for photographic purposes, whilst in
lantern work very satisfactory results may be obtained with
small discs. The prices for it are less than those of any
similar efficient instrument in the market.

-@3*S-

N England it is said the increase of silver trade is due to
the repeal of the duty, but all round the American
factories the same proportional increase of solid silver
over plated ware is being experienced. It cannot be the
repeal of the duty that has caused the increase in America
— Americans don't believe in repeal of duties, but of
putting almost suicidal ones on. Daily events are trans-
piring that are beginning to shake the faith of what were a
short time back staunch McKinleyites. Mr. A. Klein, of
Chicago, recently imported a garnet set at the value of
275dols. The New York appraisers, however, considered
them worth 430dols., and he was therefore charged upon
the penalty clause of two cents, for every dollar under
valuation, which brought up the little bill to 670dols. ! ! !
This was too much for human nature, and so Mr. K.
abandoned his claim and let Uncle Sam keep the garnets !

November 2, 1891.]

THE WATCHMAKER, JEWELER AND SILVERSMITH.

101

$n anc[ ©at t^e d>ourt&,

A very important case came up at the Mansion House,
on October 21st, in which Mr. Maurice Woolf, of 7,
Alvington Crescent, Dalston, and 16, Norton Folgate, City,
attended before Mr. Alderman Davies on a summons, at
the instance of Her Majesty's Board of Customs, for
having unlawfully made a declaration under the Statutory
Declarations Act, 1835, well knowing it to be untrue in a
certain material particular. He pleaded "Not guilty."
Mr. W. R. M'Connell and Mr. Macklin, instructed by the
solicitor to the Customs, were counsel for the prosecution ;
Mr. Fillan for the defence. Mr. M'Connell, in opening the
case, said under the Revenue Act, 1883, it was provided
that all gold and silver plate imported into this country
should be entered to be warehoused and deposited in a
bonded warehouse, and should not be delivered for home
use until assayed, marked, and stamped according to law.
Other provisions related to the assaying and stamping of
the goods, if of standard quality, and' there was this en-
actment— that plate imported for private use, and not for
sale, should be exempted upon proof by statutory declara-
tion being furnished to the satisfaction of the Commissioners
of Customs. It was alleged that the defendant made a
statutory declaration before Mr. William Carter, a com-
missioner of oaths, in Idol Lane, that a certain box of
foreign plate, which he had imported from Amsterdam, was
for his own use, and not for sale, and that, having thus
obtained the delivery of the goods to him, he, contrary to
that declaration, sold the plate, or portions of it, to
Messrs. Jones and Co., of Long Acre. Evidence in support
of the opening statement was given. It seemed that the
box of plate contained 160 articles, and that the defendant
declared that they were solely for his own use or for
presents, and not for sale. The Customs officers remarked
upon the similarity of many of the articles, and the
defendant said he had purchased them in Holland for
2,000 guilders, and that he was obliged to buy the whole
case in order to get the particular articles he wanted. The
defendant was allowed to remove the plate, but the
Customs officials, unknown to him, placed certain marks
upon it which enabled them to identify it again, and, being
suspicious, they also had his premises watched. It was
proved that the plate was subsequently sold in two parcels
to Messrs. Jones and Co., silversmiths and plate dealers,
at 19, Long Acre, for £289, the defendant representing
that he was the agent of a dealer in Amsterdam. Mr. A.
W. Starkey, a Custom-house officer, deposed that, in con-
sequence of information that the defendant was offering
Dutch plate for sale to a Mr. Davis, he visited the premises
in Norton Folgate, and, representing himself as Davis's
agent, he was shown the plate for sale, and subsequently
purchased, on behalf of the Customs authorities, various
articles for £19, which he produced. Afterwards he pro-
ceeded to Messrs. Jones's premises and saw other plate of
the same kind. It was stated that the plate in question
was not up to the English silver standard, but was below
it to the extent of one ounce in the pound troy. At the
close of the prosecution, Mr. Fillan submitted that his
client had committed no indictable offence. Mr. Alderman
Davies thought otherwise, and committed the defendant
for trial at the Central Criminal Court, admitting him
meanwhile to bail.

Julius Spitzell, 27, a broker, who was found guilty
last Sessions of obtaining from Lippman Prolick a quantity
of diamonds and other articles, of the value of £3,500,
was brought up for sentence. Mr. Lesley said that sen-
tence was postponed to enable the prisoner to give infor-
mation as to the whereabouts of the diamonds, as the loss
of them meant absolute ruin to the prosecutor and others
concerned. The Court would remember that the prisoner
pretended to have lost the diamonds as he was riding on

an omnibus. The only answer, however, which the
prisoner or his friends would give now as to the diamonds
was that the prisoner was innocent, and that the jury had
taken a wrong view of the case. The accused and his
brother had obtained another parcel of £2,500 worth of
jewels from abroad. They were received by the prisoner,
and had been consigned to another member of the family
in Australia ; but the parcel had been seized by the Post-
master-General, under a Colonial Act, and the accused
and his brother had been joined in the proceedings which
had been instituted. The recorder sentenced the prisoner
to three years' penal servitude.

Alfeed Marshall, 44, pleaded guilty, at the Old Bailey
on October 23rd., to stealing £3,000 worth of watches from
the South-Eastern Railway Company, and Robert Leigh,
27, a publican, was indicted for receiving the property. —
In opening the case, Mr. Deering stated that for facilitation
of the transmission of watches between Switzerland and
this country, parcels were received by an agent at Bale,
who transmitted them direct to Messrs. Storkwell, of Cheap-
side, who distributed the packages to those for whom they
were intended. Messrs. Storkwell were in the habit of
sending a van each morning to the railway station, London
Bridge, for the packages, and on August 24th a van driven
by a man named Tillard entered the station, and address-
ing the booking-clerk in a familiar manner, said he had
come for StorkwelPs parcels. Accordingly forty-five
packages were handed to him, and he drove away. When,
later, the right carman appeared, the robbery which had
been perpetrated was discovered. Tillard was subsequently
joined by the prisoner Marshall. The property was ulti-
mately found by Inspector Thick and other officers. —
It was urged on behalf of the prisoner Leigh that he had
no knowledge whatever that the property was stolen. — The
jury found the prisoner Leigh guilty. Marshall was
sentenced to seven, and Leigh to four years' penal servitude.
— The police were highly commended by his lordship.

At Prescot Petty Sessions, on October 20th, before Messrs.
A. R. Gladstone and F. Stapleton-Bretherton, Samuel
Nelson, of Liverpool, and Edwin Fisher, William Baker,
Walter Watts, and Charles Wood, of Coventry, were sum-
moned, under the Employers and Workmen Act, by the
Lancashire Watch Company, for leaving their work with-
out notice. In each case the company claimed £1 as com-
pensation. Mr. H. P. Walker, from the office of Mr. W.
Tyrer, prosecuted. It appeared that the defendants were
pivot-makers, and according to the evidence of Mr. Stephen
Farren, of Coventry, an agent of the Lancashire Watch
Company, the defendants were engaged by him to work
for the firm. They each signed the usual contract of work,
and all turned up at the watch factory. Wood and Watts
promised to commence on the day following their attend-
ance, but they had never been seen there since. The other
defendants had worked several days and then left. All the
defendants, with the exception of Nelson, admitted their
liability and promised to pay the amounts demanded.
Nelson denied having signed any contract to work, but the
agreement was produced in Court. The bench intimated
that the defendants were bound to fulfil their contracts or
pay the penalty. They ordered each defendant to pay the
amount claimed, with costs.

Several club and deferred payment cases have been
brought forward lately. In one case a working man com-
plained to Mr. Fenwick of the conduct of a watchmaker.
He stated that early in April he commenced to pay off a
watch, the price of which was to be £2 12s. 6d. After he
had paid instalments amounting to £1 the applicant fell
out of work, and for some time was unable to continue the
payments. A few weeks back the applicant went to the
watchmaker and wanted to resume the payments, but he
was informed by him that he had forfeited the £1 by dis-
continuing his payments. Mr. Fenwick referred the appli-
cant to th'j county-court.

102

THE WATCHMAKER, JEWELER AND SILVERSMITH.

[November 2, 1891.

At Leicester Town Hall a vei'y serious charg3 has been
preferred against William Jobson, jeweler, 1, Haymarket,
of conspiring with J. W. A. Redhouse, and obtaining by
false pretences from Robert Howard Constantine, jeweler,
Birmingham, a number of gold rings and brooches, value
£47 5s. 6d., on July 23rd. Mr. Sills (barrister) appeared
to prosecute, instructed by Mr. J. T. Hincks, and Mr. J. B.
Fowler defended. Mr. Sills said he appeared to carry on
the prosecution of the case. It appeared that Redhouse
was in the employ of Jobson, and was dismissed. They
were afterwards found to be working together to defraud
tradesmen by means of the " long firm " system, and they
succeeded in victimising several jewelers to the extent of
about £1,000. Nearly all the goods Redhouse obtained on
credit found their way to Jobson. They were not entered
in Jobson's books, but he kept them secret. He pawned
some of them, sometimes in fictitious names. In one case,
finding the game too hot, he redeemed an article pawned
in Leicester, and pawned it again the same day in London.
He also sent to a brother in Lincoln a box containing a vast
quantity of valuable jewelry, all of which had been
identified by victims in Birmingham and elsewhere as hav-
ing been obtained by Redhouse on credit. They had been
obtained on the strength of the character Jobson forwarded
to the tradesmen from whom Redhouse obtained the
goods. With the exception of about £25 worth, none of
the goods had been paid for, and were not likely to be.
Numerous witnesses were then called who had been made
victims, and ultimately, after a protracted hearing, the
defendant was committed to the Assizes.

In the Pontypridd County-court, I. Shaterio and Co.,
jewelers, Treharris, sued John Jones, of the same place,
for £3 15s., balance of instalment due upon a watch, valued
£5 10s., purchased by the defendant. A deposit of £2 had
been paid on the watch, which, the defendant alleged, had
been subsequently taken away on the plea of repairing it,
and an inferior article, valued at £1 18s., left in its stead.
The original watch had never been restored. Plaintiffs
alleged that the watches had been exchanged at defendant's
request, but this the latter denied. Judgment for the
defendant, with costs.

Tnorjvs Jones, alias Smith, alias Professor Jones, living
at the back of 19, Tenby Street, was charged with stealing
a quantity of scrap silver, the property of Walter William
Cashmore, manufacturing jeweler, of 26, Hockley Street,
Birmingham. The prisoner is in the employ of the
prosecutor, and the latter, in consequence of information
received from the police, marked a quantity of scrap silver.
That silver was missed on Wednesday evening, and it was
subsequently found in the possession of the prisoner by
Detective-Inspector Monk and Detective- Sergeant Taylor.
There was a previous conviction against the prisoner, who
was committed to the Sessions for trial.

At Bradford Borough-court, on October 10th, George
Gorell, 20, clerk, Belgrave Place, pleaded guilty to a
charge of having stolen a bag, containing £70 worth of
jewelry, the property of Mr. T. Mellor, wholesale jeweler,
Manchester. The bag had been left by Mr. Mellor under
a table in the smoke-room at Hartley's Hotel, Ivegate.
Mr. A. V. Hammond, who appeared for the prisoner, pleaded
in mitigation of punishment that this was a case of sudden
temptation. The prisoner, who had been out of work for
two years, was of respectable parentage, and this was his
first offence. The Stipendiary Magistrate said it might be
a case of yielding to sudden temptation, but the Bench
could not inflict a less punishment than six weeks' im-
prisonment with hard labor, and censured the prosecutor
for his carelessness in leaving the bag in a public room,
and declined to allow him any expenses beyond third-class
railway fares.

At Manchester two boys who have been carrying on an
extensive system of pilfering from jewelers' and other
shops, were sentenced to three months' imprisonment.
Their parents, who appeared respectable people, stated
they thought the boys were in situations, as they brought
them their money regularly.

In the same city numerous windows have been broken
by means of a catapult, and jewelry and other valuables
abstracted therefrom. Four of the thieves are now in
proper keeping.

At Bristol Police-court James Develsing, a young man,
was sentenced to four months' imprisonment for shoplifting.
Mr. C. Kemp, jeweler, of Union Street, said the prisoner
was in his shop three-quarters of an hour, and that he sub-
sequently missed a watch ; as soon as he did so he locked
the door, charging the prisoner with the theft. The watch
was afterwards found in the prisoner's sock. The prisoner
had also paid a visit to the Bristol Goldsmiths' Alliance,
and a £35 gold watch fell from his trousers as h^ was
leaving the shop, from which, however, he was allowed to
escape.

At the last City of London Sessions (Clerkenwell),
before Mr. Warry, Q.C., Walter Smith, the young man
who managed, by an old trick, to obtain possession of two
diamond rings, was found guilty. According to the evi-
dence, the prisoner went to the jewelry shop of Messrs.
Hawes, pawnbrokers in Cranbourn Street, Leicester Square,
and asked them to send two diamond rings to an address
in Market Street, Paddington, that he might choose one
for his wife. On July 22nd a boy was sent with the rings.
He was shown into a bedroom, where he saw the prisoner,
who took the rings from him and left the room, saying
that he was going to show them to his wife. The boy
waited for some time, but the prisoner did not come back ;
and the boy did not see him again until after he was
arrested, on September 16th. Detective- Sergeant Martin
said the prisoner was a laboring man, and sometimes
worked as a stonemason, but was very often to be seen
outside the Criterion in dress clothes. The prisoner was
sentenced to twelve months' imprisonment with hard
labor.

DISTINGUISHED foreigners visiting Sheffield are
llU generally trotted round the works of Messrs. Joseph
Rodgers and Sons as being typical of the cutlery
trade of the town. This is probably the reason why
Buffalo Bill's Indians were recently " personally conducted "
round that establishment. They watched the processes of
manufacture in the different workshops with more or less
intelligent interest ; but their delight culminated in the
plating-shop, where medals and other trinkets which they
possessed were immersed in the vats, and came out silvered
or gilt, as the case might be.

Curious Discovery of a Lost Ring. — Early last spring
a lady in Lockerbie lost a finger ring of massive gold, and
as the article had been in the family for generations she
was naturally much grieved at its loss. Long searching
in all likely places failed, and the ring was ultimately given
up as utterly lost. Last week, however, some potatoes
were lifted in the garden, and from the side of one of them
a bright gleam was seen, and to the immense surprise of
everyone concerned this was found to be the missing ring
protruding from a depression in the potato, whose expand-
ing growth had almost entirely embedded it. The lady is
keeping the potato as a curiosity. It can only be surmised
that the ring had been lost in the byre, whence manure to
put to the potatoes had been brought at planting time, and
that the ring had thus been placed in the potato furrows.
In the many instances on record of rings lost and recovered,
this h certainly one of the most lingular.

November 2, 1891.] THE WATCHMAKER, JEWELER AND SILVERSMITH.

103

(iafstte;.

Bankruptcy Record.
Bradley. S., and Company (Samuel Bradley, trading as), 27,
Frederick Street, Birmingham. The liabilities in this case
were put at ±S30 14s. 10d., and the assets at ±'166 12s. 7d.,
leaving a deficiency of ±'664 2s. 3d. The bankrupt com-
menced business in 1S69 as a wholesale jeweler, at 9,
Augusta Street, without capital, and in October, 1887, filed
his petition, with liabilities at ±17,393 10s. lid., and assets
±3,359 9s. lOd. A dividend of 3s. 9d. in the pound was
paid, and on the 15th of March, 1888, bankrupt was dis-
charged conditionally upon consenting to judgment being
entered against him for ±1,200. Nothing, however, had
been paid on account. In June, 1888, he started again, at
26, Frederick Street, in the same business, and without
capital. He borrowed ±20, which he paid on account of
the cost of the fixtures, ±55, and gave a bill for the balance.
For eighteen months he acted as agent for the Swiss Watch
Company ; but the agency proved rmprofitable, and he gave
it up. Since Christmas, 1889, he kept no banking account.
He had ±119 advanced on jewelry, which he pledged owing
to pressure for money. The examination was adjourned.

Clarke, Philip Wright (trading as H. W. Clarke and Co.),
1, Lowther Koad, Liverpool Road, Islington, London, N.,
and 103, Hatton Garden, London, E.C., Jeweler. First
meeting : 33, Carey Street, W.C., Oct. 8th. Public
examination : 34, Lincoln's-Inn-Fields, W.C., Nov. 11th.
Principal Creditors :

± s. d.

Apps, T. B. B London 120 0 0

Beaton, R „ 175 0 0

Elgood,— „ 60 0 0

Fournier, — ... ... ... ... ,, 170 0 0

Haas, F. „ 455 0 0

Jarvis,W „ 320 0 0

Haver and Fudder „ 163 8 6

Page— ,, 125 5 0

Stevens,— ,, 124 11 10

Heckford— „ 92 0 0

Fully Secured Creditors.

Lancaster,— London 1,370 0 0

Wallace, C. '. ,, 1,300 0 0

Partly Secured Creditor.

Clark,— London 354 12 0

(Estimated value of security, ±13.)
Preferential Creditor... ... ... ... ... 30 0 0

Liabihties on Bills, etc. ... ... 35 0 0

Isaacs, Edwin, 79, Mainlands Boad, Paddington, W., and
Wulfsox, Albert, 45, Cotleigh Road, Kilburn, Wholesale
Opticians, late trading as the English Optic Company,
35, Hatton Garden, London, E.C. Receiving order :
Oct. 16th.

Jeffreys, J., and Co., 179, Aldersgate Street, London, E.C,
Fancy Jewelers. The Official Receiver has issued the
accounts under this failure. The capital of the firm appears
to have consisted of certain patents, to depreciation in the
value of which, supplemented by want of capital and bad-
ness of trade, the failure is attributed. The debts are
returned at ±390 18s. 6d., and the assets at ±239 9s. 2d.

Lesser. Solomon, 3, Alfred Place, Bedford Square, W.C., late
19, Frith Street, Soho, and 54, Shaftesbury Avenue, London.
W.C., Jeweler, now out of business. Receiving Order and
Adjudication : Oct. 2. First Meeting : 33, Carey Street,
London, W.C., Oct. 27. Public Examination : 34,
Lincoln's Inn Fields, Nov. 13.

Moulsox, Frederick, 5, Belgrave Street, late Tenby Street North,
Birmingham, Jeweler, now out of business. Receiving
Order: Oct. 2. First Meeting: 25, Colmore Row, Bir-
mingham, Oct. 28. Public Examination : County Court,
Birmingham, Nov. 18.

Strawbaum, Maurice, 14, Reservoir Street, Reservoir Road,
Edgbaston, and 33, Tenby Street, Birmingham, Jeweler.
Receiving order : Sept. 25. Adjudication : Sept. 28. First
meeting : 25, Colmore Row, Birmingham, Oct. 14. Public
Examination : County Court, Birmingham, Sept. 29. A
meeting of the creditors of this debtor was held on the 14th
inst., at Whitehall Chambers, Colmore Row, Birmingham,
before Mr. L. J. Sharp (Official Receiver). The statement
of affairs showed liabihties ±604 3s. 8d., with a deficiency
of ±552 12s. lid. The bankrupt commenced business in
April, 1889, as a Jeweler, with capital amounting to ±150.
He had previously been engaged as a journeyman jeweler.
During the five months preceding the receiving order, bank-
rupt stated that he had pawned with Messrs. Wood, of New
Street and High Street, gold watches and finished jewelry
estimated at ±200. About six weeks ago bankrupt destroyed
the whole of the tickets. Bankrupt stated that on the 16th
ult. he locked his safe and warehouse at mid-day and went
to dinner, taking the keys with him. On his return he-
found the warehouse and safe doors open, and his entire
stock and cash, which had been in the safe, had disappeared.
The cash amounted to about ±65, and stock to ±350.
Bankrupt was aware about a month before the robbery that
there was a deficiency, but believed it to be only slight.
The insolvency was attributed to robbery, insufficient
profit in consequence of having to sell for cash, and bad
trade. Bankrupt's wife had a policy for ±1,000 effected
upon her life for her husband's benefit. The case being a
summary one, the Official Receiver was constituted trustee.

Westmore, James Henry, 1, Church Street, Ventnor, Isle of
Wight, Watchmaker and Jeweler. Receiving order and
adjudication : Oct 17.

Young, George Herbert, 129, Somer's Road, Southsea, Watch-
maker. The debtor's statement of affairs showed liabihties
of ±207 9s. 6d. to unsecured creditors, and nett assets to
the amount of ±66 12s. 10d., leaving a deficiency of
±140 16s. 8d. In answer to Mr. Hunt, the debtor said he
had been nearly four years in business. He started with a
capital of £22 or ±23, which had been raised by his wife
through the sale of a piano. Of this amount he paid ±12
for the goodwill of the business, and the remainder for
fittings and stock. Thus he practically started business
without capital. The examination was closed.

Deeds of Arrangement.

Beresford, Matilda Eliza, 31, Market Street, Nottingham, and
■ Swiss Cottages, Chilwell, Jeweler. Trustee : Thomas
^eman, Nottingham, accountant, with a committee of
inspection. Secured Creditors, ±150. Dated Oct. 3 ;
filed Oct. 10. Unsecured liabilities, ±972 19s. 6d. ; esti-
mated net assets, ±1,528.

Cohen, David, 96, Elizabeth Street, Cheetham, Manchester,
Watch Dealer and Jeweler. Composition of 7s. 6d. in the
±, payable Is. 3d. on Oct. 11, 1891 ; Is. 3d. on Jan. 11,
2s. 6d. on May 11, and 2s. 6d. on Sept. 11, 1892. Secured
by three guarantors. Dated Oct. 5 ; filed Oct. 10. Un-
secured liabilities, ±1,005 3s. 6d.
Principal Creditors —

± s. d.

Britton, B. H , and Sons Birmingham 89 11 2

Hill, Thomas, and Co Coventry 149 16 6

Cohen, Philip „ 237 4 10

Kinder, Thomas ,, 74 17 6

Hawley, John, and Sons ,, 190 6 6

Wright, L. J., and Co. Manchester 168 0 4

Makin, George ,, 71 6 4

Fextox, M. (trading as Alfred Matthew Frost), St. George's
Road, Preston, Lancaster, Watchmaker and Jeweler.
Trustee : William P. Meagher, 18, Cannon Street, Preston,
Lancaster, Accountant. Dated Sept. 25 ; filed Sept.
30. Unsecured liabilities, ±225 2s. 4d. ; estimated net assets
±40

Principal Creditors :

Lewis Brothers
Makin, G.

Birminghan
Manchester

± s. d.
90 5 4
65 0 0

104

THE WATCHMAKER, JEWELER AND SILVERSMITH. [November 2, 1891.

S\viNi;i:\vooi>. William Harrison, Ombersley Road, and at 33,
St. Paul's Square, Birmingham, Jewel-case Maker.
Trustee: Walter G. Blnckham. Corporation Street, Bir-
mingham, Accountant. Preferentail creditors, £'11 7s. 4d.
Dated Oct., 12 ; tiled, Oct. 19. Unsecured liabilities,
±'400 5s. 7d. ; estimated net assets, .4101 4s. 2d.
Principal Creditors :

£ s. d.

Swinge wood, A. Birmingham 30 6 6

Massie and Singleton ... ... ... Manchester 100 9 11

Goodie, George „ 42 0 0

Skelton and Co SmaU Heath 40 0 0

Thorp, James John, 82, North End, Croydon, Surrey, Watch-
maker and Jeweler. Dated Sept. 23 ; tiled Sept. 28.
Unsecured liabilities, £683 3s. lOd. ; estimated net assets,
£660 0s. Od. ; secured creditors, £40. Trustee : C. H.
Phillips, 11, Rose Street. London, E.C.

Principal Creditors :

£ s. d.

Blanckensee and Son Birrningharn 435 13 10

Roberts, G. ... Charlton 106 0 0

Tranmer, Herbert 20, Tadman Street, Hessle Road, Hull,
Jeweler's Agent. Trustee : William Elvin, Walmsley Street,
Hull, Jeweler. Dated Oct. 6 ; filed Oct. 12. Unsecured
liabilities, £340 9s. 8d. ; estimated net assets, £350. The
principal creditor is Mr. William Elvin, Huh, with a claim ■
of £294 12s. 7d.

Walker, Christopher, 72, Middle Row, High Street, Skipton,
York, Watchmaker and Jeweler. Trustee : John Alderson,
Skipton, Auctioneer and Valuer. Dated Sept. 28 ; filed
Oct. 3. Unsecured liabilities, £568 14s. lOd. ; estimated
net assets, £104.
Principal Creditors :

£ s. d.

Griffiths and Sons ... Birmingham 165 0 0

Abrahams, J. F. Bradford 71 4 11

Rosenthal and Son Manchester 116 10 0

Company Matters,

Aqueous Works and Diamond Rock Boring Company,
Limited. — Resolution passed Sept. 2, confirmed Sept. 30 : —
That it is desirable to reconstruct the company ; and that
the liquidator be, and is, authorised to consent to the re-
gistration of a new company.

Bear Creek Gold, Limited. — Meeting : Company's Offices, 1,
Leadenhall Street, London, E.C, Oct. 22, for account of
the voluntary winding-up.

Central Argentine Gold Fields, Limited. — Resolution passed
Sept. 9 : — That the company be wound up voluntarily ; and
that John Henry Tilly, 37, Queen Victoria Street, London,
E.C, Accountant, be appointed liquidator. Claims to above
by Dec. 7.

Divisadero Gold and Silver Mining Company, Limited. —
A petition for winding-up was presented on Oct. 2, by
Frederic Barnes and Company, 109, Fenchurch Street,
London, E.G., export hardware merchants ; and is directed
to be heard before the Vacation Judge, Mr. Justice Jeune,
on Oct. 14. Phelps, Sidgwick, and Biddle, 18, Gresham
Street, London, E.C, solicitors.

Goldfields of North Queensland, Limited. — Resolution
passed Aug. 12, confirmed Sept. 13 : — That the company
be wound up voluntarily ; and that William Henry Fox be
appointed liquidator.

Gorton, S. and B., Limited. — Resolution passed Sept. 7,
confirmed Sept. 25 : — That it is desirable to reconstruct
the company, and that for this purpose the company be
wound up voluntarily ; and that Thomas James Mercer,
Coventry, watch manufacturer, be appointed liquidator, and
authorised to consent to the registration of a new company,
to be named Gortons, Limited.

Ripanyi Quicksilver and Silver Mines Company, Limited. —
Meeting : 12, King Street, Liverpool, Nov. 17, for account
of the winding-up.

St. George (Queensland) Gold Mining Company, Limited.
Resolution passed, Aug. 5 ; confirmed, Aug. 20. : — That the
company be wound up voluntarily.

Silver Bell Mining aed Smelting Company, Limited. — A
petition for winding-up was presented on Sept. 26, by
Elizabeth Mary Douglas Norman, Temple Chambers,
Temple Avenue, and is directed to be heard before the
court on Oct. 14. Thorneycroft and Willis, 59, Chancery
Lane, London, W.C, solicitors.

Upper Roodepoort Gold Mining Company, Limited. — Claims
to Henry Goodier Turner, Arthur Hibbert, and Abraham
Levy. Liquidators, care of McDiarmid and Teather, 5,
Newman's Court, Cornhill, London, E.C. ; solicitors, by
Nov. 2.

Bills of Sale.

Lippold, Conrad John, 46, Cologne Road, Clapham Junction,
Surrey, Journeyman Watchmaker and Assistant. To Cen-
tral Advertising Corporation. Dated Oct. 15 ; filed Oct. 19.
£30.

Martindale, Alice Jane, 7, Carey Place, Watford, Hertford
(wife of William Martindale, same address), Jeweler's
Assistant. To William W. Freeman. Dated Oct. 5 ; filed
Oct. 10. £50.

Pawsey, Harry, 38, Park Road, Clapham, S.W., Watchmaker
and Jeweler. To South West Investing Company. Dated
Sept. 24 ; filed Sept. 30.

Rescorl, Philip, 51, Church Street, West Bank, Widnes, Lan-
caster, Watch Dealer and Jeweler. To Widnes Investment
and Banking Company. Dated Oct. 5 ; filed Oct. 6.
£30.

Turner, John Charles, 142, St. John Street Road, Clerkenwell,
London, E.C., Clock Manufacturer. To Charles G. Lodge.
Dated Oct. 6 ; filed Oct. 8. £50.

Dividends.

Appleby, James (trading as Appleby and Company), 55, Frede-
rick Street, Birmingham, Jewelry Manufacturer. First
and final dividend of Is. 4d., at Whitehall Chambers, 25,
Colmore Row, Birmingham, Oct. 12.

Coghill, William Douglas, 12, Pride Hill, and 12, Claremont
Street, Shrewsbury, Salop, Watchmaker and Jeweler. First
and final dividend of 15s. 2Jd., at Official Receiver's, Shrews-
bury, Sept. 28.

Martindale, William, 119, High Street, Watford, Hertford,
Jeweler. First and final dividend of 3s. 9jd., at Official
Receiver's, 95, Temple Chambers, Temple Avenue, London,
E.C., Oct. 6.

Partnerships Dissolved.

Crichton, G. and M., 18, Princes Street, Edinburgh, Sept. 4,
Jewelers and Goldsmiths. George Crichton and John
Crichton, continue under the same style.

Johnson, Sons, and Edmonds, 32, John Street, Bedford Row,
W.C, Manufacturing Gold and Silversmiths and Pencil Case
Makers, Oct. 5. Debts by Frederick Edmonds, who con-
tinues under the same style.

Junner, G. and A., Elgin, Watchmakers, Sept. 5. Debts by
Andrew C. Junner, who continues in his own name.

Mackay Brothers, 11, High Street, Dundee, Watchmakers and
Jewelers, Sept. 5th. James Mackay, Jun., continues under
the same style.

Myers, Jacob and Sons, Warstone Lane, Birmingham, Jeweler's
Factors, Oct. 6. Debts by David Joshua Myers, who con-
tinues under the same style.

Saum and Rombach, 215, Grange Road, Bermondsey, London,
S.E., Watchmakers and Jewelers.

A number of silver and copper coins have been found at
the Bulwarks, Dunbar, the storm having laid them bare.
The silver coins, which are chiefly half-crowns, shillings,
and sixpences belong to the reign of George III. Among
the copper coins are a number of tokens, with the
name " John Wilkinson, Ironmaster," on them. The
coins are supposed to have been originally in the founda-
tions of the old United Presbyterian Church manse, the
excavations from which were carted to the Bulwarks some
time ago.

W«

Q^atc^n^alccr, ^cWclcr

«?

^ilVcrsn^itfy

Entered at Stationers' Hall.]

Edited by W. J. LEWIS ABBOTT, F.G.S.

[Registered for Transmission Abroad.

Vol. XVII.— No. 6.

DECEMBER 1, 1891.

r Subscription, 5s. ) Post
L per Annum. I Free,
single Oopipp, firl

IMPORTANT.

OUR DIARY AND DESK-BOOK FOR 1892.

This handsome and useful publication will lie issued in a few days.
A complimentary copy will be presented to each of our subscribers
for the year 1892, whose subscription is in hand before December 31st.
We cannot guarantee copies to subscribers delaying beyond the end
of this year, as it is possible the edition may be exhausted, and they
must incur this risk. As already announced, the Diary will be bound
in strong boards, and interleaved with blotting. It will be replete
with information of special value and interest to the trade.

SUBSCRIPTIONS.

Several subscribers ask us to date their subscriptions for the
ordinary calendar year, commencing with January and ending with
December. As we believe this would suit the general convenience,
we shall, in sending out notices of lapsing subscriptions in future in
cases where the subscription does not end in December, ask the sub-
scribers to remit the proportion payable to the end of the calendar
year in addition to a complete year's subscription. It will, of course,
be open to subscribers to fall in with this arrangement, or continue
on the old lines at their convenience.

©Y^fiai- ©onAtifufeA <J\ <gafe.

CASE of very great importance to everyone
who transacts business at all, but perhaps
more directly our own Trade, was decided
at the Guildhall on November 2nd. The case
briefly stated is this : — On the 19th of Febru-
ary last Messrs. Spink, the well-known jewelers and dealers
in jewels and plate, of Gracechurch Street, E.C., were paid a
visit by a lady who presented a pair of diamond earrings and
a pair of drop pearls, of which she wished to dispose. That
she was a lady, and a fit and proper person to be possessed
of such articles, was evident to those who saw her. She
gave her reasons for wishing to sell the articles, an address
at which she was staying in town, and also her country
address. Satisfied in every way, Messrs. Spink took her
into another room, where the business was concluded, and
a cheque for £550 handed over to her. Shortly after
Messrs. Spink saw an account that articles similar
to those they had bought had been abstracted from
a drawer in the house of Mrs. Hargreaves, at Torquay.
They immediately communicated to this lady the fact that
they had bought them, and gave a description of the
person who sold the articles. From the description given,

Mrs. Hargreaves, it appears, immediately recognised a
young lady who had been staying at her house when she
put away her earrings, and who had left when the robbery
was discovered. We are informed Mrs. Hargreaves then
communicated with the young lady, and asked her, in the
first place, to pay a certain sum, and say no more ; and upon
her refusing this, to pay to Messrs. Spink the £550
they had paid for the earrings. But instead of doing this
she showed the letters to her brother and her fiance, who
in their turn consulted Mr. Wontner, and an indignant
reply was made, threatening an action. A selection of
photographs was shown to Messrs. Spink, and they
immediately recognised the same young lady that Mrs.
Hargreaves had suspected from their description.
We have given a few of the details of the case so
far as the young lady is concerned, because most people
have thought it one of the worst features of the hardships
of Messrs. Spink that the young lady has not been prose-
cuted. There are several romantic phases of this part of
the case, which do not bear upon the question that most
concerns the trade, that will shortly be made public in
another action which the young lady's (now) husband is
about to bring against Mrs. Hargreaves.

As the young lady refused to pay Messrs. Spink,
Mrs. Hargreaves felt she herself ought not to do
so, and instituted the present proceedings to recover
her property, when the whole question turned upon
the old doctrine of market overt. It appears that Messrs.
Spink, in their anxiety to give every detail connected with
the purchase of the earrings, had said that the young lady
was taken up into the other showroom to finish the
transaction, whereupon it was argued that the room was
not an open market, and therefore no property passed.
Now in order to realise the sort of verdict that would be
given in such a case it is necessary to know at least some
thing about the haze and maze in which this doctrine of
market overt is involved. The statute from which our
present law has evolved dates back at least to
Henry VIII. , when it was deemed necessary — to protect
an innocent third party in a purchase — that any sale
which takes place openly in a public market should be
considered valid, and property pass in the trans--

106

THE WATCHMAKER, JEWELER AND SILVERSMITH.

[December 1, 1891.

action. At this time, however, markets and fairs were
tile places where the chief sales were made ; but with the
growth of the City of London it was found necessary to
extend the conditions of market overt, so that accord-
ing to Lord Coke " every shop (in the City of London),
in which goods are exposed publickly to sale, is market
overt for such things as the owner professes to trade in."
This might seem plain enough to many, but then come
these nice hair-splitting distinctions so characteristic of
law, rather than of justice. "If a sale of plate be in a
goldsmith's shop (where it is properly to be sold), it must
be publickly and open ; for if a sale be there of plate in an
inner shop, or behind a curtain, or a cupboard or such
like, or all or any the windows be shut, or anything else hides
it so that passers-by cannot readily see what is done there,
it will not alter the property." It was upon such hair-
splittings as these that the learned judge decided that inas-
much as the transaction had been concluded in an upper
shop, and not on the ground floor as demanded by the
statute, that no property had passed, and consequently
Messrs. Spink must hand back the earrings to the owner.
Everyone must sympathise deeply with Messrs. Spink over
their loss, and admire the handsome manner in which
they acted, in immediately rendering all the assistance they
could ; and one can only hope for their own sakes they will
be more successful in the action which will probably ensue.
Of course we are fully aware that by common law no one can
acquire a good title to a chattel from a person who has him-
self no title, and that no property passes upon conviction of
the thief. But we certainly feel that the sooner this law of
market overt is shorn of its anomalies the better for the
whole trading community, and we ask, if a broker's shop
with its windows out and door open in a back lane in the
City constitutes market overt, why should not one on the
other side of the lane, just outside the City boundary, enjoy
the same privilege ? And if one part of a building in which
business is transacted is market overt, why should not
another part of the same building, set apart for the same
purpose, also be legally constituted ? Lastly, how does
this apply to the diamond trade ? Are the only legal sales
those which are made by the Jews in the street in Hatton
Garden? Or one might go even further than this; what
about the business done on the Stock Exchange ? Is that
done with open doors and upon ground floors ?

But the question which naturally presents itself to every
business man is, who will get this unsatisfactory state of
things altered for us ? No individual can, however good
his intentions. It is the work of a protection society, such
a trade guild as we unfortunately do not possess, the need
for which the circumstances of modern daily life enforces
upon us the more we give the matter our consideration.

E are constantly being taunted for our
silence in regard to unchallenged statements
which make their appearance in journals
connected with the trade. Many of our
readers consider that it is not only the
office of a trade journal to seek out and
bring together the facts which underlie the
trade, but that it owes the further duty of warning them
against the traps and snares innocently or deliberately set
for them by others, and so prevent error usurping the
peace of fact. They think further that the extent to
which a journal does this is the gauge of its value as a
trade organ. We must say that while we fully endorse
these views, we are personally very sorry to attack any
other journal ; but as this expression of opinion is so pre-
valent, we feel duly bound, in self-justification, to pay a
little regard to these taunts.

We take it as a principle in journalism that if a state-
ment appears in a journal unsigned or uncommented
upon, it is either the work of the editor or he is responsible
for it, and as such he has the data for the assertions. We
therefore call upon the editors of those journals who are
responsible for the following to give the data of one single
assertion it contains.

" Investigations made some fifteen years ago tended to support the
conviction that the diamond might he of cosmic origin. Later, in the
year 1887, an English mining expert contributed to current literature
some notes in which ho showed that the motherstonc of the diamonds
in South Africa bore a remarkable resemblance to certain meteorites,
of which lie had had the opportunity of making a closp examination.
Finally, in a black meteoric stone which fell at Nowy Uray, Kussia,
and a piece of which is preserved in the Vienna Natural History
Museum, there were found small crystal diamonds, representing 1 per
cent, of the size of the stone. But the really useful commercial
diamond is only found in a zone running through Southern Asia,
South Africa, and South America, where the conditions of the
surrounding earth often seem to confirm the aerolite theory. In South
Africa the majority of the diamonds are found at a good depth below
the surface, and the burnt track of the meteorite may frequently be
traced in the soft soil. On the other hand, particularly in Brazil,
mines are heard of which have become completely exhausted after a
short working, pointing to the probable circumstance that the diamond-
carrying meteors have, in this case, been of comparatively small size,
or have fallen upon extremely hard rocks, on which they have at once
been dashed to pieces."

One can very rarely pick up some journals without seeing
something incorrect in them, but an article without one
single fact in it one hardly expects to find. But this is
even worse than that ; it not only does not state what is
true, but it states what is absolutely false, some of its
assertions contradicting the most elementary facts con-
nected with the diamond industry; which, if they were
true, would have a very serious effect on the diamond
market to-day. The diamond zone is a pure myth ! the
writer cannot know the meaning of the word, and still less
of geography, as anyone with the slightest connection with
the trade or literature ought to know. Nor would
a tellurian zone confirm the aerolite theory — quite the
reverse ! Nor does the asserted distribution of the diamond
in South Africa substantiate what is said with regard to
Brazil. There is nothing that in any way whatever
resembles a burnt track of a meteorite in a diamond mine !
The lower shales, quartzites, " melaphyres," upper shales,
and basalt are all pierced with the diamond-bearing rock,
and instead of coming from aboce, came from below, as
is certain from the facts — firstly, that the softer shales have
their edges upturned; and, secondly, that huge masses of the
lower rocks are brought up towards the surface, occurring
as floating reef in the diamond-bearing rock itself; one
mass — the island of De Beers — has an area of over 3,000
square feet of unknown depth. Further, neither the man
who wrote the article in question, nor the one who clips
it, can have the least idea either of the size, shape, nature,
or anything else of a diamond mine. Moreover, he can-
not have the faintest knowledge of physical astronomy !
The effect of a collision of a mass of the size of the Premier
mine with our planet is not for a moment taken into con-
sideration, and as before observed, instead of the surround-
ing rocks being depressed they are upturned. Possibly the
author would suggest that such masses entered our planet
somewhere about Japan, and forced their way through the
earth to the surface again in South Africa, and so originated
the seismic disturbances of the former area. It would be
a bad look out for the De Beers if their mines were nothing
more than aerolites, likely to end a few feet below where
they are now working. But we do not suppose the De
Beers Company are at all afraid of that, seeing they have
pierced far beyond their present workings, and probably
further than will be worked during the lifetime of any member
of the present company. With reference to Brazil, no true
diamond-mine is known to exist at all, nor does the
diamond occur in its original matrix, but only as an
associated pebble. Other questions raised will be met in
the next article.

December 1, 1891.] THE WATCHMAKER, JEWELER AND SILVERSMITH.

107

amon

Meleoritex^.

Extra-Tellurian.

tt\ /1HEN earth approaches that elliptic zone
\\j Which girds the sun with meteoric stone,
W V- Meteors scatter as the earth draws near,
J ' Flash like a fiery host, shoot, blaze, and disappear !

There is something awfully fascinating about these
heavenly messengers. Whence come they ? What is their
origin, and of what are they made? Are they old volcanic
bombs that have been projected from the earth in bygone
geologic times — when even this stable little isle of ours was
belching forth a seething, fiery mass, larger than its present
area — revolving round the sun in orbits intersecting that
of the earth ? Or do they come from the realms of space,
moving in cometary orbits ? And are they little worlds in
themselves, of which countless billions are distributed
through the universe ? If the latter, then the materials of
which they are composed become extremely interesting, as
pointing to the chemical composition of other worlds beside
our own. It is only of late years that our knowledge of
these celestial visitors has possessed any scientific value.
They have been seen to fall time after time, and have been
recovered and made the subject of scientific examination.
The first thing that strikes one is the dissimilarity which
they present amongst themselves, and according to their
composition they have been divided into siderites when

WWl^m

Fig. 1.

principally metallic, siderolites when partially metallic and
partially stony, and asterolites when wholly stony. Their
structure and surface lustre too, is very distinctive and
characteristic. With as much knowledge of them as this
it is easy to identify other masses which are found on or
near the surface of the earth, the date of whose fall is un-
known. There has been about two dozen elements found
in them, none of which are new to our planet ; they
include — Iron, Nickel, Calcium, Magnesium, Alluminum,
Oxygen, Phosphorus, Sulphur, Carbon, Silicon, Cobalt,
Manganese, Antimony, Chromium, Copper, Tin, Arsenic,
Titanium, Lithium, Sodium, Potassium, Chlorine, Nitrogen,
Hydrogen.

But with mineral species, on the other hand, there has
been recognised some thirteen not known to occur on this
planet, while several others are under consideration. They
are as follows : —

Tellurian.

Anorthite

Augite

Breunnerite

Bronzite

Chromite

Cordierite

Corundum

Diopside

Enstatite

Garnet

Graphite

Hornblende

Magnetite

Olivene

Pyrrhotite

Quartz

Asmanite

Chamasite

Cohenite

Daubreeli te

Lawrencite

Octibbehite

Oldhamite
Osbornite
Rhabdite ■
Schreibersite
T suite
Troilite

In addition to these there are various other alloys of iron
and nickel ; the gases occur occluded, and there are further
several soluble salts. Several of these new minerals have
been prepared synthetically — i.e., built up from the elements
of which they are composed — in the laboratory, and the
whole of synthetic research goes to show that the structure
of these bodies results from igneous fusion pure and simple.

But the element that possesses the greatest importance
to us at present is carbon, which has again recently been

Fig 2.

found in its isometric form, which we know as diamond, in
one of these meteorites.

In America there has been seen to fall numerous
meteorites, which have been subsequently obtained, and
much information about them collected. They have been
seen to pass and drop their burdens over several States in
one. flight ; and there can be no doubt that very large
quantities of these siderites have fallen over various parts
of the earth throughout all time. Before us at the present
moment lie spear and arrow heads, made of native iron
from isolated islands, in which no iron deposits are
known, nor the inhabitants sufficiently civilised to work it :
it is thus probable that the iron is of meteoric origin.
There is a peculiarity about the structure of these
siderites, in that when a clear surface is cut and treated
with acid curious figures are developed, known as " Wid-
manstatten figures." Fig. 2. represents these very
beautiful markings, which are well known to every
student.

In the early part of this year it was circulated that a vein
of pure iron two miles long and forty-five feet wide, carry-
ing gold and silver, had been found in Arizona. Suspecting
what this might be, Prof. Foote set out in search of it.
After having discovered the locality at Canon Diablo, he
set to work with five men to gather these " remnants of a
former world" together. There was no mistaking the
nature of them ; large, well-preserved masses presented
the characteristic gloss, and although most of them were
oxydised, upon treating them with acid the Widman-
stiitten figures soon manifested themselves.

Elated by the discovery, our friend sent us word from
Arizona, and soon forwarded us some specimens of the
meteorite. Fig. 1 is taken from a block of 10 lbs. weight,
in which Professor G. A. Koenig found a small black sub-
stance, which ultimately turned out to lie a veritable
diamond. In the centre of the figure, at D, can be seen an
irregular cavity; the reduction of this specimen to the

10s

THE WATCHMAKER, JEWELER AND SILVERSMITH.

[December 1, 1891.

size of the engraving obliterates the diamond, which in the
specimen can be easily seen near one of the sides. To
the right of it, however, can be seen circular indentings
caused by loosened diamond fragments. There could be
no mistaking the hardness of the diamonds, as they cut
corundum readily. By treating the black contents of a
cavity with acid a clear white diamond was obtained, which
although only of microscopic dimensions, was, nevertheless,
a true diamond. The meteorite itself belongs to the
siderite group, being essentially native iron, with admix-
tures of nickel, etc. We have over a dozen of these speci-
mens now before us, and the yellow color of the alloys
easily explain how the notion got abroad that the iron
carried gold. A great part of the markings on Fig. 2 are
of a golden color ; whilst scattered about many of them
may be seen small white and yellow bright metallic spots
suggestive of gold and silver. The size of the fragments
varied from a few grains up to 867 lbs. in weight.

It is quite possible and, indeed, highly probable, that
when other fragments are cut diamonds will be discovered
in them. In addition to the diamond several other
meteoric minerals, including troilite and daubreelite have
been found, so that there cannot be the slightest doubt of
the meteoric origin of the specimens. To more fully realise
the case it may perhaps be advisable to say a word or two
upon the states in which the element carbon exists. Now
there are several elements and compounds that exist in
different states, in which they may resemble each other in
nothing save their chemical composition ; amongst these is
the element carbon, which exists in at least three distinct
allotropic forms, known as diamond, graphite, and char-
coal. The latter form is too well known to require a word
of explanation. Graphite is the substance from which
"black-lead" pencils are made; it is opaque, metallic,
and crystallises in the hexagonal system. The diamond,
on the other hand, is glassy, usually transparent, and
crystallises in the isometric system. Further, there is a
principle in crystallography called pseudomorphism, in
virtue of which minerals, under certain conditions, become
changed, retaining the original forms. Now in reference
to this discovery of diamonds in meteorites we - might
mention that, as early as 1846, Haidenger described an
isometric form of carbon, which by some is considered a
pseudomorph after diamond, in a meteorite.

There are further several specimens in the Vienna
Museum, which require further examination before they
can be satisfactorily dealt with.

Lastly we have the discovery of our countryman
Mr. L. Fletcher, the head of the mineral department of the
British Museum, whose Cliftonite may also turn out to
be a pseudomorph after diamond. But most of these
occurred in a siderite ; rather than at the other end of
the classification, where minerals are found very similar
to those of our own ultra-basic rocks, such as serpentines
and peridotites. It is under the latter category that the
Kimberlite or diamond-bearing rock of Kimberley falls, and it
is this fact which has been so perverted in the paragraph
alluded to in our foregoing article. But Kimberlites are
by no means confined to Kimberley. They occur over
many places in Europe, including our own country, Asia,
and many localities in the United States.

These then are the plain ungarnished facts which have
been so mutilated and perverted at hands whose chief duty
it is to place them in a reliable and trustworthy form before
its readers. The discovery of a crystalline element in a
meteorite is of interest to the scientist, and to every man
in the trade with a mind above a brute, as pointing to con-
ditions under which the element can be found crystallised.
But it no more '■ tends to support the conviction " that the
diamond pipes (or mines) are meteorites, which may stop
short at any moment, than it does that we may expect
some day to get a shower of diamonds, large enough to
build a palace for every tellurian troglodyte.

flotes fibout Jou/p.

There seems to be a little difference of opinion
Xiuon?ii.* in describing the trade of the past month ;

many are grumbling, but quite as many — or
perhaps even more — say they must not indulge in that
privilege ; so that considering the unprecedentedly bad
weather, when the barometer almost beat its own record
in downward motion, we ought perhaps to be more than
satisfied. All the factories are busy, and in most cases
running overtime, And this, too, on regular " bread and
cheese" stuff.

* * #

There is always a charm about " bread and
H"i¥,od>^iViJs.I,s cneese " stuff to the manufacturer — and the

men too, generally — which exceeds even
" the charm of novelty " ; everything is to hand for it,
patterns and dies are ready, quantities and time known.
It is only saying off the same old piece, without learning a
fresh line. But with a novelty, on the other hand, there is
always an immense amount of trouble and speculation,
and a glorious uncertainty as to whether it will "take."
Then, besides, there is the existence of that state of affairs
that allows another man to step in and copy ones idea
without the trouble or skill of original production, which
perhaps is effected in a commoner quality, poor finish, and
lower price. It is obviously very hard on a manufacturer,
after expending brains, trouble, and capital over a dozen
novelties, that only one of them (which may, perhaps, be
the least meritorious of the lot) should "take," and then
everyone allowed forthwith to make it in any quality or
style.

* * #

It may be argued that registration would

BTceded protect him. Just so ; but with the present

»< tonus. SySt;em 0f registration and patent laws the

machinery is too cumbersome and expensive ;

and for a man to apply them in their present form to every

article he produces is entirely out of the question. The

laws regulating copyright in design are as important as in

authorship, and the sooner we have these laws altered,

simplified, and cheapened, the better it will be for the

trade.

# # #

It is owing to these facts that we have been

Tew met so frequently this season with the reply,

J*°tiiisics when in quest of novelties, " I don't know that

Christmas, we have anything much new ; the fact is, we

have been too busy upon regular stuff to think

about novelties, there is always such a lot of trouble with

things of that sort." I can only say it is a good job

manufacturers can afford to stop at a little trouble. Such a

firm should never speak of the times being bad, when they

know that they have only to put out a little energy to

secure considerably more business.

I have known small but enterprising men to

The Maim- " get into " the best houses in the trade, over

^Openr" tnu shoulders of large manufacturers, simply by

Sesame." a few novelties ; just as the old aristocracy of

the trade have, within the last twenty years,

seen men come up to the front and top by adopting the

necessity of the times in advertising, and by catering for

the wants of the public. When the public have a want

they have only to know when and how to get that want

satisfied ; and in the same way when retailers have wants,

they must be made aware of the existence of those who can

supply their requirements.

December 1, 1S91.]

THE WATCHMAKER, JEWELER AND SILVERSMITH.

109

Prominent amongst the promising novelties
j*"^"ltiSs "which are being held back till the Christmas

season is fairly set in are some new combined
watches and chains. For some time these have looked
favorable, large quantities have been selling, and some
very effective and beautiful designs have been turned out,
from oxydized nickel and red gold to articles of the most
expensive description, where transparent enamels, and
gems of every description, have been combined with
watches with all kinds of movements.

* * *. '.

Astronomy (save the mark ! ) is still appealed to

wiiat i* for inspiration of design. Naturally a little
ivoru. digression from the original has been made by
conventionalizing, or, as our biological friends
would perhaps call it, retrograde metamorphosis. The sun
is still shining brightly on the fair necks, chests, and
heads of society ladies ; the centre is being employed
for all sorts of colored stones, notably the ruby,
when such a luxury can be indulged in, many of
which I have recently seen made up to order ; and for stocks
of very great value colored diamonds and pearls are also
employed as centres. The limbs of the original rays are
becoming less natural, and although it is against what
would be generally considered the canons of art delicate
foliage is being introduced, with by no means unpleasant
effects, between the limbs. Perhaps advocates of the rigid
adhesion to nature will feel compensated for the above
conventionalization of his solar majesty by the reformation
made in the shape of the crescent, which is now of nearly
natural shape (too straight, perhaps, if anything). One
form now selling is made up of graduated comets arranged
crescent-shape

* * *

Around the vicinity of Charterhouse Street the
T1Xi^»\ic?r bustle and late hours of departure from busi-
ness testify that things are in a satisfactory
condition. I could hear of no complaints, but quite the
reverse in most instances. While walking through the
magnificent gallery of Messrs. Atkin Brothers I was struck
to see so few Tantalus-frames, as their patent is un-
doubtedly in many respects the best, simplest, and
strongest that has ever been brought out ; but upon inquiry
I found that the low number in stock was not to be
attributed to its fall in favor, but to the great demand for it.
Other showrooms that I am always interested in walking
through are those of Messrs. Horace Woodward, not only
to get a sight of the big cups, trophies, and that sort of
thing they frequently have on view, but on account of the
general excellence of everything they produce ; just the
same, or, if possible, better than they used to be in our young
days, when price was perhaps not taken so much into
account as it is at present, and when retailers did not put
in the window " all spoons and forks at Is. 8d. per oz.,
about the price of crude silver."

# a #

"Weieiits OXCE more the excise authorities are busying
an«i themselves in enforcing the Weights and
Mei"",re,!'-" Measures Act of 1878, and numerous con-
victions are being made. It is a great pity some decisive
step is not taken in this matter. It being law, adminis-
trators should let the trade know definitely that it is to be
obeyed ; and not act in fits and starts, as in the past.

On Friday 20th ult., a dinner was given at the Horse-
shoe, Tottenham Court Road, to celebrate the wedding of
Mr. Geo. Chandler, Junr., of the old firm of Messrs.
Chandler and Williams, now Messrs. Chandler and Son, to
the firm's employes. In addition to a good repast ; toasts,
music, and other good things were indulged in, altogether
making a very pleasant evening. Many of the old hands
have seen the development of Mr. Chandler from a boy,
and his quiet good-natured business-like disposition has
earned for him a great respect.

Bir/rvp^am ]\[ot^5.

(By our own Correspondent.)*

Tjj?7r Y prognostications of a month ago have been fairly well
i^L fulfilled during the last four weeks. There has
been a good steady business done, and manufacturers
and factors alike have been fully occupied. The appearance
of the district late at night, when so many of the estab-
lishments are in full light, gives evidence of overtime and
the rushing off of parcels. Still, I am inclined to think
that the total results will not be quite equal to those of a
year ago. The general trade of the country is not in so
good a condition now as then, and this, added to the havoc
wrought on agriculture by the extreme weather, is a suffi-
cient explanation of any small deficiency there may be in
the turnover. Considering these things, the trade has
every reason to be satisfied with themselves so far.

fS to the outlook — although the commercial barometer
is somewhat unsettled, the reading for the immediate
future is still fair, and a good trade during the current
month is certain. The disturbing elements are at present
too indefinite to have any serious effect on the Christmas
trade, which will force itself as usual on our friends, the
public. So far good ; but I would expressly note that the
prophecy covers this month only, while beyond the horizon
is somewhat cloudy. In the next issue I hope to give a
more extended indication of the possibilities of the new
year.

YT7HE usual flood of Christmas approbation has hardly
elL® commenced yet. Being late in commencement, it
means a more severe rush than usual during the
next two or three weeks.

VTTHE orders for medals and club badges, to which
e)Jfe i referred last month, have not yet reached the
firm in question, who have now given up all expec-
tation of them. I am afraid, too, that they have not
come to Birmingham, as we cannot hear of them from any
of the other makers here.

TT7HERE is one feature of the Birmingham Jewelers'
41® School of Art that is worthy of special notice. It
is the issuing of a monthly document to the em-
ployers of the boys in the school, showing in detail each
one's attendance and conduct. This paper gives at a
glance the full number of attendances possible during the
month, the number actually made by each boy, and the
general characteristics of his conduct during school hours,
as "good," "fair," "indifferent," and "bad." The
masters are thus able to keep a strict supervision over the
boys, and any irregularities, either of attendance or be-
haviour, can be noted and checked, which, besides, is of
great use to the employer in assisting his judgment of the
relative worth of the boys growing up under him.

\T/HE Free Silver Policy of the United States has
4L® already tended to the cheapening of silver here, and
it will doubtless to that extent be of service to our
manufacturers. There is some anticipation in financial
circles that the bi-metallist countries will form a union
against our English gold standard, and try to force our
hand into accepting a bi-metallic currency. Probably such
a proceeding would hamper our operations and give us
trouble, but we do not think that any such combination
would have power to permanently affect our position in the
money market.

* We must not be understood as endorsing all, or necessarily any, of the v.ews of
our correspondent.

110

THE WATCHMAKER, JEWELEE AND SILVERSMITH.

[December 1, 1891.

§AM hardly in a position to say to what extent Birming-
ham rivals Sheffield in the production of plate, hoth
sterling and electro ; but I am pleased to say that both
departments are extremely busy here. It seems to be a
growing trade with us. The wholesale dealers, too, while
giving a doubtful shrug when asked as to their jewelry
sales, say that they "can always sell this sort of stuff,"
pointing to their cases of plate. I have lately heard the
same remark hoth here and in the North of England.

|UR local pearl workers occasionally have a stroke of
luck. Some short time ago a fine pearl was dis-
covered in cutting up a shell, which is now worn as a
breast-pin to the adornment of the lucky finder. Such
finds, however, are not of frequent occurrence, as the
existence of a pearl is nearly always indicated on the inside
surface of the shell, and they but rarely escape the scrutiny
of the first possessors.

fLDEEMAN CLAYTON, ex-mayor of Birmingham,
has just been presented, among other things, with a
silver cake-basket. This is of interest as having
been made by Messrs. Bpulton and Fothergill, who were
the first firm to enter their punch for hall-marking at the
Birmingham Assay Office when first opened on August 31,
1773. The basket is marked with the first and largest of
the six punches entered on that day.

CjTOME amount of discussion has been going on in the
M) Birmingham papers on the subject of pawning of
stock as a custom of the jewelry trade. The matter
was started by some remarks of Mr. Eegistrar Parry, of the
Birmingham County Court, in connection with the bank-
ruptcy of S. Bradley. The Eegistrar said that " there did
not seem to be much harm in pledging . . . . as it
was a custom of the trade." Such a statement from such
an authority naturally called forth a denial, and Mr.
Walter Best, Chairman of the Birmingham Jewelers Asso-
ciation, gave an official and emphatic protest. Some few
letters followed ; but it is hardly necessary to enter into
the pros and cons of the case. Suffice it that it is affirmed
"pawning" has no place whatever in the jewelry trade
properly so called. It may be used on occasions by bank-
rupts, and other dishonest members of the trade, as a
means of raising money when pressed; and doubtless
under these circumstances it has come to the knowledge of
Mr. Eegistrar Parry, but beyond this, it is in no sense of
the term " a custom of the trade."

TQUT while we thus dismiss the matter, one cannot but
JlD wonder what has become of our friend the Paily Mail
during all this controversy. With its well-known an-
tagonism to, and its often shown spite against our trade, we
have been daily expecting one of its old-fashioned tirades
against the jewelers and their methods of business. Surely
this was an opportunity not to be neglected. The whole-
sale pledging of one's stock-in-trade would form a most
fitting peg whereon to hang an universal censure of the
trade at large. Never before, so long as I remember, has
a chance, however slight, been missed ; but on the most
trivial occasions a volume of invective has been hurled at
our devoted heads. Has the stock of spleen run out? or,
perhaps the Daily Mail has kindly forgiven us for being-
jewelers, and is now willing to let us go our own way in
silence. Well, we have no desire to prolong the quarrel,
which was never of our own seeking, and we are equally
willing to shake hands and be friends. Let the curtain
fall on the affecting scene.

fHEAE that for the last two months the shippers to
Sydney have been extremely busy getting off large
quantities of goods, so as to rush them in at once if the
port is to be closed.

TI7HEY are having very late hours at the Assay Office
VJL9 just now, the work not being ready till from six to
half-past six o'clock at night, while even then the mes-
sengers often have to wait. This seems to say that the
various makers are busy, and sending large quantities of
work for hall-marking, It further indicates a matter that
has been forcing itself on the attention of the observing for
some time past, viz., the increasing demand on the part of
buyers and the public for goods which bear the authorita-
tive assay mark, as distinct from those which are merely of
bright or colored gold, or of silver. Without doubt, the
various frauds which have been brought to light are largely
responsible for this feeling, which the general effect of the
Merchandise Marks Act tends to strengthen.

^E should imagine that Mr. Eosenberg's connection
with the Birmingham jewelers is at last termi-
nated. After his lecent exposure by His Honor
Judge Chalmers at our County Court, he is not likely to
be received here with any pressing invitations to select
goods on credit ; and apparently credit is far more in
Mr. Eosenberg's way than cash payments. His record of
failures is, I think, unique, even for the jewelry trade.
But does the blame rest entirely with him ? Is it not
rather shared by those who thus time after time are
willing to run the risk with their eyes open ?

^E have in our Municipal Art Gallery a splendid
example of what may be called the "barbaric
splendour " of the jeweler's art. It is a cap which
belonged to the last King of Delhi, and it is formed of
rich gold embroidery, thickly interspersed with gems of all
colors. Diamonds, rubies, emeralds, carbuncles, etc.
(many of them of large size) literally sparkle in profusion ;
and altogether it seems to satisfy one's imagination as to
what the "gorgeous East" must be. In the same case
are several hand ornaments (wristlets and finger rings
combined) of a similar nature. There seems to be no
attempt at harmony of colors in the disposal of the gems,
but simply gorgeous display. These articles are of great
interest, and well worthy the attention of our designers
and workmen. They are, however, quite useless as models,
and are of value only as suggestions for new designs, and
things to be avoided. If a similar style were reproduced
in modern work it would be absolutely unsaleable.

TgJIBMINGHAM has been pretty well overrun with
|S| diamond dealers during the last month. Does this
indicate any special activity among the diamond
cutters, or simply that the London market is flat, and
consequently that dealers are trying to force sales in the
country ? The latter, we think.

"1®FHAT has been done in the matter of gentlemen's
W wedding-rings, as mooted across the Atlantic some
time ago? It seems to me a very good idea, and
likely to be well taken up if its purport were fully grasped
by the feminine portion of the community. Let our
wedding-ring makers see what they can do in the matter ;
it would be greatly to their advantage. Could they not
manage to " rush " the idea by a judicious movement
amongst their retail customers ? Let them produce a ring
of distinctive shape ; let it be labelled and sold as the
gentleman's wedding-ring ; and lastly, let it be well adver-
tised (The Watchmaker, Jeweler and Silversmith is a first-
class medium), and I have little doubt that it will soon
" catch on." I give them the idea for what it is worth.

EDWARD JOHN HAYNES and Robert Haynes, and
Robert F. Glover, trading as the Compton Cycle
Company at Birmingham, Cycle Makers, have dis-
solved partnership.

December 1, 1891.] THE WATCHMAKER, JEWELER AND SILVERSMITH.

Ill

Sheffield flotes.

(By our own Correspondent.)*

TT7HE great public departments are far too dignified ever
ajfe to get in a hurry. They don't profess to keep up
with the times. If the times get ahead of them that
is the affair of the times, for which the great public depart-
ments are not responsible. Up to the 1st of October last
it was impossible to get a document of any sort stamped in
Sheffield. This would have involved an innovation so
great as to be utterly inconceivable to the official mind.
At last, however, after many respectful representations (one
has to be respectful in dealing with the Department), the
prayer of your memorialists has been granted, and one can
now actually take an agreement up to Leopold Street and
get it stamped while one waits. Lest, however, the change
should be too great for us, it has been decreed by my lords
that even yet documents in parchment may not be stamped
in Sheffield, nor any deeds relating to the registration of
trade-marks. This, it appears, is not owing to any disin-
clination on the part of the Inland Revenue authorities to
accommodate Sheffield, but to the great expense which
would be incurred in making the change. The lay mind
may not be capable of grasping the idea, but that doesn't
matter. We can't have all the facilities we want, and so,
perforce, the Chamber of Commerce, after eliciting the
foregoing facts, has, on the principle of being thankful for
small mercies, passed a formal vote of thanks for the bene-
fits alreadv conferred on us.

(7TT the commencement of the month little could be said
7*X for the state of the optical and allied industries, but
as soon as the month had set in a decided improve-
ment was experienced all round, especially with lanterns
and slides, although electrical goods are coming in for a
fair share. Photographic instruments have; of course, sunk
somewhat, but in many instances they are being replaced
by telescopes and micros. The weather does not yet
appear to have been cold enough to create a demand for
thermometers.

T7J0T even a critic whose special line was bricks and
1/ mortar has ever accused us of turning out goods that
were other than respectable from an aesthetic point of
view. This is fortunate, because, after a run round the
various showrooms at this season of the year, one would
scarcely be inclined to believe him. The extent to which
the influence of the School of Art has leavened the lump
of Sheffield manufacturing society may be seen in the
attractively stacked show-cases which meet the eye on
every hand. A more striking display of effective Art
workmanship than that which claims the attention of the
visitor to the manufactories of the town has perhaps never
been seen. If an extensive show of novelties, artistically
got up, can stimulate trade, the Christmas season ought to
be a prosperous one.

(7T S was to be expected, the Manchester, Sheffield, and
]i>±. Lincolnshire Railway Company are preparing to re-
introduce their Bill for an independent route to
London into the next session of Parliament. At present
the Midland have a practical monopoly of the goods traffic,
and however well on the whole we may be served by that
company, we have set our minds upon having another
direct line to London. The injustice to the Manchester,
Sheffield, and Lincolnshire Railway Company in having to
hand over to the Great Northern traffic collected at great
cost to themselves, although violating our sense of fair play,
does not, it must be confessed, weigh so much with us as a

Wu mu.-t not be nrnleustooiras endorsing a.l, or nece-sarily nirjr, <>r the views of
our correspondent, who writes; on his own resp >p«bii>ty.

lively sense of favors to come when the new railway is
made. I grieve to say also that the agonised cry of a
London residential suburb at the prospect of having a
railway run through it is viewed here with brutal in-
difference. Although nothing could be a greater surprise
than the rejection of the Bill last year, yet1 on the whole
the probabilities are that this year the measure will become
law.

N important step has been taken in the direction of public
/<&± electric lighting in Sheffield. The Town Council has
just agreed to support the application of the Sheffield
Telephone Exchange and Electric Light Company, Limited,
for a provisional order to supply electric lighting for public
purposes within the borough. The provisions dealing with
the taking up of streets and so forth raise hopes that the
days of overhead wires are numbered. This, however, may
be too good to be true, but at any rate the prospect of
having the centre of the town lit up with arc damps is
sufficiently alluring. The large and increasing number of
these lamps fixed outside the shops of private tradesmen
enables us to form some idea of the general effect when the
electric light is applied to the public lighting of the town.

\|/HIS reminds me that at the last meeting 'of the
^Ji9 retiring School Board the board-room was for the
first time lighted by electricity. The whole of the
necessary work has been executed by pupils of the Central
High School, under the direction of Mr. Watkinson,
teacher of electrical engineering and machine construction
in that institution. The power is derived from a gas
engine, used for turning lathes and other purposes in the
Central School. Satisfaction was expressed at ■ the
improved state of the atmosphere as compared with the
previous meeting of the Board when gaslights were
burning round the room. It is understood that one room
in the school itself is fitted up with the electric light.

T, HEAR that one large limited company whose trade is
Jl mostly with the United States is permanently
reducing its office staff in consequence of the incidence
of the M'Kinley tariff. This is the penalty it has to pay
for having all its eggs in one basket. But if the craze for
protection now raging in nearly every country but our
own goes on, even those firms whose business relations
are of a more all-round character will be ultimately
affected. Carried to its logical conclusion, the result
would be that every country would make its own cutlery,
its own electro-plate, and its own railway material. A
very much smaller space of land than we now occupy
would then accommodate the town of Sheffield. It is
I robable, however, that as long as the world lasts the law
cf the survival of the fittest will still continue to operate,
in which case we shall most likely be able to give a good
account of ourselves.

\|/HAT portion of Mappin and "Webb's new premises
s)Jfe which fronts Norfolk Street has now been denuded
of its scaffolding. The new building is much higher
than the older part of the firm's premises, which flanks it
on one side, and of the show-rooms and offices of Mr.
Maurice Baum, which adjoin it on the other. It thus forms
a prominent feature in a comparatively central situation,
an advantage which it possesses over most of the other
first-class silver and electro-plate establishments of the
town. An air of picturesqueness is imparted to the
facade by the oriel windows over what will ultimately con-
stitute the main entrance to the firm's offices. The
finishing touches to the interior and the office fittings will
probably take up some months yet. When these are com-
pleted we shall avail ourselves of the offer, made some time
ago, of a personally conducted run round, and give our
readers the benefit of the result.

112

THE WATCHMAKER, JEWELER AND SILVERSMITH.

[December 1, 1891.

^E are informed that tenders have heen received for
l^ the erection of the additional premises of the
Lancashire Watch Company. The new building
will be three storied, and cost probably some £8,000. This
building is to be employed for hand work ; and is in
addition to the fast completing new wing, which will be
used by tool makers, smiths, and joiners.

fEWS from Prescot is of a very encouraging nature ;
they are well off for orders, and are contemplating
new features which may surprise some people, but
which will, nevertheless, do much for the elevation of the
Prescot Company.

fT a meeting of the directors of the newly-formed
Cycling Company, at Prescot, five tenders were
received for the erection of the new factory in
Warrington Road, and after careful deliberation the tender
of Mr. John Lucas, of Eccleston Street, Preston, was
accepted.

R. STEPHEN PARREN has resigned the secretary-
ship of the Coventry Watch Trade Association.

§N Manchester a decided improvement has manifested
itself in optical and electrical goods. Amongst the
former numerous houses are turning out large quan-
tities of fine quality high-class micros, whilst lanterns
and slides are even going faster.

T.T is impossible that the Coventry Technical Institute this
X year should not secure a great benefit to the trade,
seeing that the following well-known gentlemen in
the- trade are on the committee : Alderman Chas.
J. Hill, Messrs. John Rotherham, Philip Cohen, William
Gooding, Rowland Hill, Mathew Dodwell, A. E.
Fridlander, and Joseph Player. But Rome was not built
in a day, and the full benefits of technical educa-
tion are not realised in one year. Some people's idea of a
technical institute is that it ought to be like the fabled
mill — in which the decrepit, useless old folk were dropped,
and came out young, clever, and everything else at the
other end — or nothing at all. Then there are others who
foolishly remark that "fifty years ago, when we were at
the head of the watchmaking industry, we did not have any
of this nonsense about technical education, and we kept our
lead without it ; and ever since watchmakers have got their
heads muddled with it the industry has been nagging." A
little over fifty years ago the good old British Oak was con-
sidered quite equal to maritime conveyancy. If we had
set our backs up against the development of steam and
mechanics, who would now have been " Queen of the
Seas " ? But Heaven be thanked, all are not watchmakers.

WE regret that the following was by some means
squeezed out of last month's journal, especially as it
concerns a name so well known and highly honored
and esteemed in the .trade. The wedding of Mr. Herbert
Charles Hill, eldest son of the well-known Mayor of Coventry,
to Miss Mary Lynes, second daughter of Dr. E. Lynes, J. P.,
who comes of one of the oldest and most respected families in
Coventry, was celebrated on the 21st October, in the pre-
sence of a crowded church. It was a high day, not only
for the families concerned and their friends, but for all the
employees. The presents were both numerous and beau-
tiful. At a dinner given to the indoor workpeople various
interesting and commendable speeches were made, and
toasts drunk and sentiments exchanged, and an evening of
supreme enjoyment was spent.

TfrjjT MYERS, a diamond dealer on the Bowery, New
x^i1 York, has a desire to cultivate a taste for the pro-
fession in his juvenile son at an early age, and
allows him to play with the charming little objects. The
other day, however, the little chappie ran off into the
street with 15,000 dols. worth, returning without them.

* # *

VjTHE lately issued bulletin of the imports and exports
ej® from Washington D.C. shows a remarkable increase
of imports in many things compared with the
corresponding period of last year. In the month of
August last there were uncut diamonds, etc., to the value
of 112,829 dols., compared with 15,660 dols. for the same
month last year.

* # #

BOR the eight months ending August 31st, 1891,
diamonds and other precious stones amounted to
582,798 dols., against 228,995 dols. in 1890.

^HEN we come to clocks a very different tale is told,
for during the same period only 89,541 dols. have
been imported, compared with 218,991 dols. in same
period of last year. Watches, oddly enough, show a further
increase, being 1,175,422 dols., against 1,070,207 dols. in
1890. Jewelry and silverware show a decrease to 736,408
dols., compared with 1,028,489 dols. of 1890. Cut
precious stones, etc., unmounted, also show a decrease, being
8,321,633 dols., against 9,475,070 dols. in 1890. There
was also a falling off in bronze goods.

* * *

tTYURNING to exports, we find clocks and parts thereof
elite fell in August, 1891, to 57,902 dols., compared with
106,833 dols. for the same month last year. But
the most remarkable item of all is watches, which fell to
13,077 dols. from 41,122 dols. August, 1890. Jewelry
also fell 15 per cent.

-* # #

VjTHE figures of the eight months ending August, 1891,
^1® compared with the average of the preceding five
years, show increases in imports in watches, etc.,
119,332 dols. ; jewelry and precious stones, 434,347 dols. ;
while in the exports the increase of clocks, watches, etc.,
amounts only to 14,702 dols.

J^feCE thus see that the operations of the McKinley tariff
*JPJlr do not have such a one-sided effect as one would
have imagined ; indeed, we hear from many quarters that
staunch McKinleyites are beginning to realise that prohibi-
tive protection is not such a panacea for all the ills that
trade is heir to as they expected, and that while it cripples
many indispensable branches of trade, in the end they are
no better off, if as Avell.

# * *
"HAT American jewelry stores are like may be

gathered from the fact that a Chicago firm have

just obtained a permit to build new premises, a

sixteen-storey building, of red brick and terra-cotta, with a

skeleton steel interior. The frontage will be 105 feet in

Madison Street, and sixty-six feet in State Street.

# * =x=

^NCTHER jeweler has leased a place in State Street
from May, 1892, at a rental of 210,000 dols. for
the first ten years, and 250,000 dols. for the second
ten, but this is only a five-storey building.

# * *

EVERYTHING is pushing forward in connection with
the Chicago Exhibition. Many countries are send-
ing in their intention of participating in it. The
diamond fields of South Africa will be specially represented
and the whole of the processes exhibited.

December 1, 1891.] THE WATCHMAKER, JEWELER AND SILVERSMITH.

113

£^ouqc[ tfie ©"y/atcft iJa.eioriex*>.

(7T NEW jewel- set machine has been set up at the
/ul Walthain Factory. It is claimed to be the only one
of its kind in existence.

It is said the Illinois Company are benefiting rather than
otherwise since the fall in prices of the Elgin.

Mr. Wolcott, President of the Board of Trade, has given
a site and offered to subscribe 1,000 dols. cash for a
watch factory in New York. Other inhabitants have also
come forward with subscriptions, so that the projectors
expect to be able to start almost directly.

The Wandsworth Watch-case Company have been run-
ning double time for some five or six weeks in order to
meet the demands for Christmas.

The hands of the Rockford Watch-case Company now
work nine hours a day instead of ten.

The Kingstone Standard Watch Factory, Lancaster, Pa.,
is at work again, after being closed for some time.

The New Standard Watch Company have reduced their
8 dols. 50 cents, watches to 3 dols.

The Waltham Watch Tool Company's factory is very
busy, especially with some of their lathes.

The Manhattan Watch Company are turning out the
"New York Chronograph Watch " in gold-fitted cases. It
sells retail at 20 dols.

Watch and Block Making.

(Continued from page 95.)
ehr^oaeri) an<\ flotetb to Quei&fior^ <£>e£ at tfie
dit^ cmc( (§[uifc|<s> of boniLorj Sni>t\tu.te
Ggarrunationi).

By I. Herrmann,

Director of lie Polytechnic School of Watch and Clock Making

(II.) — Advanced Paper, 1880.

Remarks. — The principal points to be observed in
examining a chronometer escapement are the following : —
The tongue of the detent should be so adjusted that the
deflection of the relieving spring in one direction, and of
the detent in the other, are approximately of equal magni-
tude, and the latter of such an extent as to leave a small
marginal movement to the detent, after the escape wheel
is released, and before it becomes disengaged from the
relieving pallet.

The impulse pallet requires to be in such a position that
it just dips safely into the periphery of the escape wheel
and no more. Some books name 5" as the necessary
angular measure of penetration into the periphery of the
escape-wheel at the instant the latter becomes disengaged.
That such a large measure is unnecessary will be apparent
from the following experiment : — If the impulse pallet of a
chronometer, or even duplex, is so adjusted that the teeth
just miss the pallet when the balance is guided, it will be
found (all other tbings being right) that when the balance
is started, with a velocity due to a deflection cf about 180°,
that the escape wheel gives impulse, a result which is due
to the inertia of the escape wheel. The safety of penetra-
tion can be practically ascertained thus : — Guide the
balance till the tooth, passing into action, drops on to the
pallet ; then reverse the balance and observe the angle
through which it has to be moved before the escape wheel
is released ; if there is auy pronounced angular motion at
all the penetration is safe. Every part of the detent should
be as light as possible, so that the point of contact with
the stop-screw coincides as nearly as possible with the
centre of percussion, for then the tendency to tripping by
reason of vibrations due to concussion will be a minimum.
Also the escape wheel requires to be as close to the blade
of the detent as possible to make the tortional moment as
small as possible (see (1) No. III. Honors paper).

Quesi'ion (10). — Describe the depthingtool, including the
use to which it is principally applied.

Ausicer. — The depthing tocl consists of two pairs of
parallel centres, mounted in two frames in such a manner
that they are moveable in a direction parallel to their axes,
and also in a direction perpendicular to them. The
first adjustment is effected by running the centres in friction
tight borings with provisions for clamping by milled-edged
buttons, and the latter by an angular motion of the planes
of the contfes about a joint. A clamping screw is applied
to adjust the angular position of, the frames against the
initial strain of a spring which presses the frames together.
Its purpose is to mount any two objects which have a
mutual or relative engagement about fixed centres, such as
an escapement, depth, or stopwork, and to determine the
distance of such centres in their proper positions, or to
examine the conditions of such engagements ~

Remarks. — A depthing tool, if it is to be of real service,
requires to be carefully constructed. To test it, it
should be ascertained that all four centres run absolutely
true, and that in every possible angular position the distance
of both ends of the centres coincide, which can be done by
describing a circle with one end and referring the other to
the radius of the circle. It is remarkable that the small-
sized depthing tools are not more used, since they admit
a much better inspection than the ordinary larger ones.

Question (11). — How would you ascertain in a cylinder
escapement that the cylinder is too large or too small,
and in a lever escapement that the opening of the pallets
is too great ?

Answer. — If the cylinder is too large the drop inside is in
excess of that on to the outside,, and if too small the
reverse of this is the case. Also in a lever escapement, if
the opening is too large the drop inside is in excess of that
on the outside locking to plane.

Remarks. — In selecting a new cylinder there is no better
way to make sure of its right size than to place the
cylinder and the escape wheel in the depthing tool to try
the drop.

Question (12). — Explain clearly the circumstances that
render a compensation balance unnecessary with the
cylinder escapement.

Ansiver.^-Tke effect of a fall of temperature is to cause
a gain as far as the functions of the balance spring is con-
cerned. The cylinder escapement being a frictional rest
minimised by lubrication, the resistance is increased
with the fall of temperature, which tends to loss ; thus the
effect of a change of temperature on the balance spring is
approximately neutralised by its action on the resisting
motion.

The compensation balance is designed also to neutralise
the effect of temperature of the balance spring, and its
action is therefore along parallel lines, as the action of the
temperature on the frictional resistance, and would there-
fore tend to an over compensation, and hence has no place
in the horizontal escapement.

Erratum. — Page 26 (August) and page 51 (September)
read 1880 for 1890. And on the latter also read c for d,
and d for c in the proportions to equations (/3) and (y)
respectively.

Subscriptions fall due in January, but we strongly advise
that new subscriptions or renewals should be posted at
once. Our Diary and Desk-Book for 1892 will shortly be
ready for issue, and all our subscribers for the new year are
entitled to a complimentary copy. We cannot, however,
guarantee that the edition will not be out of print by the
end of the year, and subscribers who put off their renewals
after this date run the risk of losing our useful gift.

A fine nugget of gold, weighing 32 ozs., and some rich
specimens of antimony were found recently on the Starlke
River, about seventy miles north of Cooktown, Queensland.

THE WATCHMAKER, JEWELER AND SILVERSMITH- [Decbmbee 1, 1SH1

(Continued from -page 94.

ROADLY speaking, there are two great orders
of window-dressing. The object of the first
is to crowd as much as possible into the
window ; that of the second is to make it
representative and ever new.
Under the first order, whatever the stock
contains is elevated to a promim nt position, and this
frequently results in the most baneful incongruities, as in
the struggle for front positions a cut-glass scent-bottle lies
in juxtaposition with a diamond ring, and a " new " silver
thimble beside a delicate miniature ; thereby breaking our
first axiom — the surroundings instead of enhancing the
beauty and special characteristics of the objects, absolutely
destroys them. Therefore regard

Avoid overcrowding
as one of the most important axioms. The eye cannot
take cognizance of more than a certain number of objects
in the field of vision at any one moment, the clearness of
any given' object being in the inverse ratio of the numbers
by which it is surrounded. So that whilst a mass of stock
at most serves to suggest or confirm the idea that there is
plenty of jewelry, plate, etc., in the universe, it presents
nothing specially, and therefore appeals to no special want.
But there is a much greater argument against this over-
crowding policy : it is equivalent to showing your hand of
cards at the commencement of a game. You have a hand
without trumps ; the customer has had the opportunity of
seeing all your stock in the window, and when he enters
the shop he is simply muddled and dazed at the confusion
of the window, and expects you to be able to show him
something that will reduce the chaos to order. If you turn
your face towards the window to get any article — although
you are certain it is the very thing he requires — you are
met by a " No, thank you ; I have seen all that is in the
window ; haven't you got some others you can show me?''
He came in with the full determination of not buying any-
thing which ho thinks he has already seen — although in
point of fact he may not have seen it at all — and upon failing
i: a much larger stock inside than he thinks he has
seen in the window, he retires with the idea, " There isn't
lunch in that shop ! " The salesman's powers are thus
crippled ; indeed, the true art of salesmanship is not calletf"'-'
for. The window, to a certain extent, is an illustrated
price list, and things require little more selling from it than
from a catalogue.

I do not say that good businesses are not run with full
windows ; but there is no house of any importance to-day
that is a victim to this overcrowding, as I have here
ibed. The one that comes the nearest to it has also a
good stock of trump-cards inside ; whilst it cannot be denied
that its greatest failing lies in the direction indicated.

Xow contrast with this the other order of window-
dressing, which may be regarded as the specimen window,

ever-changing and ever new, where every piece of stock
stands out clear, visible, unmistakable, and beautified.
Every morning you can have a change, or, if you like to
do as some of the Parisian jewelers do, you can have two
changes a day. Customers get the idea that you have a
large stock, and if they don't see the exact articles they
require, they come in and make inquiries. Then comes
the opportunity of the salesman to exercise his skill ! An
article judiciously introduced secures a customer wholly
unobtainable from an illustrated price list. But upon
business philosophy, or the art of the salesman, 1 do not wish
to enter on this occasion, only in so far as it is concomitant
with the subject under consideration. Whatever the. class
■of your business, the higher, the more rigidly would we
enforce the axiom

Change your window us often as possible.
If you have but one style, and that consists of cramming
everything into the window, it shortly becomes repulsively
monotonous ; there is nothing novel or attractive in it. It
has been said this is an age of tit -bits : food must not
only be got ready to eat, but it must be in tempting morsels,
delicately served. Moneyed customers will not wade
through the same old maze to find an article each time
they require one. The insatiable desire for the novel that
is rife is not accompanied by a corresponding spirit of
energy and perseverance. They leisurely glide through
life, casting but furtive glances around, if perchance some-
thing obtrudes upon their notice that is "taking." I do
not for a moment say that this describes the experience of
every jeweler, but it certainly is the case in the upper
strata, and is shared by all, diminishing in proportion as
they descend into the commonplace and humble.

We therefore conclude that a window should be a
frame and mount for pictures, differing from a painting,
frame and mount in that it not only sets off a single picture,
but that its principles of construction should be such as to
serve as the very best possible frame and mount to the
greatest number of articles under the most varied condi-
tions. Use the very best materials you can get, and do
not improvise and ape decorations. Do not put a dirty,
ill-shaped piece of velvet, with cotton stitches like dog's
teeth, across the front of your window, perhaps unsuccess-
fully strained to make it reach the whole distance, with
the effect of making it look like a pair of mother's-make
trousers on a boy who has put his legs too far through
them.

I have seen stocks that would run into five figures thus
disgraced. Let your window express the complete perfect
and artistic manner you can do things. Fittings need not
necessarily be expensive and elaborate to be susceptible
of being made artistic and admirable. If you cannot
afford silk velvet at 80s. a yard, surah at 2s. artistically
employed can be made very effective.

Of course differently constructed buildings require
different window fittings, but for jewelry display we con-
sider a velvet stand is almost indispensable. It is very
remarkable, however, what a lack of simple easily adjust-
able fittings exists in most of the windows in the trade.
There is often more time wasted every time a radical
change is made in a window than would pay for a good set
of fittings. These need not be expensive, but they should
be interchangeable ; every window should have at each of
its ends two parallel upright bars with equidistant screw
holes. The stop-studs and screw holes on every bar and
bracket should be separated by the same distance that
intervenes between the right-up screw holes. If a window
exceeds three feet in length a third support should be
pendant from the back or centre of the ceiling, or fixed to
the floor at the back, susceptible of being lengthened or
shortened as the case may be. With these simple fixtures,
we shall proceed in our next to give illustrations of windows,
and draperies.

(To be continued.)

December- 1, 1891.]

THE WATCHMAKER, JEWELER AND SILVERSMITH.

115

»ur Iseffer j?rom tfte ©iamoniL

(By Vaalite.

KlMBERLEY, Oct. 26.

rffl

T is very rarely, if ever, tlie case that topics
of more diversified nature fill the whole of
the diamond fields than just now. Here
are groups full busy discussing the Exhibi-
tion, its pros and its cons ; who ought to
be patrons, and what is the value or duty
of the function ; there another cluster are
pulling long faces over the dreadful fire which destroyed
our magnificent (for out here) amphitheatre, together with
several stores, in a few minutes. It is true the buildings
were only wood, and, when once a blaze got hold, with the
wind that was blowing, it was only what one might expect.
It was a good job it was at 10.30 at night. If the place
had been full escape would have been simply impossible,
and would have been accompanied by the most appalling-
scenes. In other quarters may be heard discussions as to
the comparative values of different brands of dynamite, and
how it ought to be used and transported, as we have had
several mine accidents ; and away up country a serious
explosion while in transit, which blew everything — men
included — into atoms. And yet again others are telling
their various tales of woes of damage done by water, for it
is greatly owing to this that the Vaal River Diamond
Company has been reduced to the unfortunate position it
is now in, as from quite the early part of the year they
were under water some twelve or fifteen feet. This was not
got rid of for six months. But there is another thing about
this mine, and ■ that is, I cannot help thinking they are
pursuing a will o' the wisp in imagining they have dia-
mondiferous blue as bed rock. So far as I am aware there
is not the slightest reason to think that the old river at this
point ever cut through a diamond pipe, and therefore it is
not reasonable to expect to find the blue as the mother
rock of the country. Wishes are often the parents . of
thoughts, as I shall show in a minute or two. In their
top stuff they certainly find a few diamonds, the same
as can be found in almost any of these old gravels ;
but as to being in payable quantities, that is quite
another thing. During the whole of last year they
only found 251 carats, but with the increased energy of
working, after the long work at removing water and
boulders, they have found considerably better lately. The
British United have also been flooded out, and although
there are such. high personages connected with the mine,
they had to realise that natural objects can only be treated
in a natural way. Amongst other panic-like incidents
that have happened might be quoted the receipt by the
North-Eastern Bultfontein of a telegram from London
ordering the suspension of hauling. What it was for was a
mystery to everybody, and as the company employed about
100 whites and 1,500 blacks it meant something considerable
to the neighbouring town ; however, orders have been
received to go on again. Probably it was thought that as
they had 220,000 loads of blue already hauled that further
increase for a time was undesirable ; but their figures are
highly satisfactory, and considering they have some
25,000,000 loads in sight, one would have thought that
setting more hands on would have been more likely than
stopping hauling. The yield, too, is fairly good, as the
following weekly figures will show : 21,600 loads (washed)
gave 1,400 carats of diamonds ; 12,000 loads, half blue
and half yellow, gave 1,600 carats; 10,500 loads gave
1,300 carats, which is about the usual average, and though
not a very great deal, is still a paying quantity. Fate
grins once more on St. Augustine, however, now that it

has been reconstructed, and new capital put into it. I
cannot help thinking that it will reach good paying blue.
That it is a mine I am certain, from what I have seen ; but
certainly the composition of the diamond bearing rock
varies greatly, and considering this lies away out from the
rest, it is no more than one could expect. Suppose it had
been the luck of the De Beers to have been struck just on
the side of the barren well-named island, and mining had
been continued over this extensive area, it would soon have
•been abandoned. I therefore feel disposed to congratulate
those who stick to it, and believe they have a future before
them.

At the last meeting of the Griqualand West Diamond
Company a dividend of 4 per cent, was declared.

Athough Koffyfontein is turning out 250 to 300 carats a
week, which in September amounted to 1,436 carats, at a
depth of 40 feet, it is certain they are crippled for want
of capital. Instead of £27,000 capital it should have
£50,000, and then it would show what it could do. I had
the pleasure of seeing a charming fancy-colored stone oil
13-J carats of a kind of beautiful pink they found the other
day, and for which they refused £500. Prospecting is
going on all round ; fifteen diamonds were found the other
day up the Vaal in sinking for a coal shaft, but fifteen
diamonds don't make a mine. Even the great De Beers,
with its renowned head, have by this time learned to eat
their words and fully realize they have by no means got
all the land that possesses diamonds, and are accordingly
buying up any farms that look at all promising, with
a view to prospecting. The Wesselton have taught them a
lesson, from which many others may also profit, for the
monopoly cannot possibly be as much theirs in the future
as it has been in the past.

' ' Csf LORIANA " in her letter in the World, of November
l£T 11th, has a word or two of interest to jewelers.
"It is as natural for women to adore jewels, as
for flowers to turn their thirsty petals to a refreshing
shower." There is certainly a tone of hope to us about
this remark, as while such is the case there will be a
ceaseless demand for our ornamental productions, which no
adverse edicts of fashion will be able to stop. She further
remarks that " to show jewelry in fullest perfection is a
physical gift." Here again is our advantage, as while
those who . have this gift will be ready to use it on all
possible occasions, those who possess it not will be equally
anxious to do their best to acquire it. In either case, an
unlimited supply of jewels will be needed.

(7TS the year draws towards a close a retrospective glance
/jJl over its course fails to reveal the same degree of
prosperity as prevailed last year. As far as the silver
and electro-plate trade is concerned, the experience of most
firms has been somewhat mixed. Some few, and these of
the largest, have been exceptionally well off, but with the
many trade has fluctuated between very good and only
moderate. This of course must be understood to be as
compared with last year, which was an exceptionally good
one. As Christmas approaches signs of activity are
observable in all the factories, which are lit up early and
late. Women and children are kept as long as the Factory
Acts will allow, and, on the whole, the forthcoming season
has every indication of turning out a fairly prosperous one.

Mr. Fredk. B. Box, valuer and agent for the disposal
of jewelers' businesses, has removed his offices from
6, Thavies Inn, Holborn Circus, to larger and more com-
modious ones at 64, Holborn Viaduct, E.G.

The business formerly carried on under the style of
Messrs. Chas. Baker & Son, 90, Spencer Street, Birming-
ham, will in future be carried on under the same style by
Howard Nicholas Baker alone.

116

THE WATCHMAKER, JEWELER AND SILVERSMITH. [December 1, 1891.

'?'

©rLj&taffograpipL] o{? (§[emA.

By the Editor.
[Concluded from page 96.)

The Tkiclinic System.
The Natcku. Forms of^Axinite.

E are now brought to the concluding crystallo-
graphic system ; it is called the Triclinic,
from the fact that all three of its axes are
inclined to each other. The angles made
by their intersections are dissimilar in
different minerals. When they all approach
right angles, forms in this system appear very like those of
the trimetric, and when the angles are small the resultant
crystals resemble those of the monoclinic. With the
increase of the obliquity of the axes, crystals assume shapes
distinguished by their absolute want of symmetry.

In consequence of this obliquity of the axes, the system
consists entirely of partial forms wholly independent on
each other, so that there can be neither planes nor axes of
symmetry, nor more than two planes of a kind. The lengths of
the axes are immaterial.- One is selected as the principal;
the shorter of the other two is called the brachy- diagonal,
and the longer the macro-diagonal. In reading a crystal
the principal axis is placed vertical, and the macro -diagonal
so as to slope from left to right. As we have little
use for this system, it is not worth while to go into the
details of its nomenclature, which must, from the conditions
of the case, be very profuse. It has been said that this
system was invented to receive crystals that would not fit
into any of the others — any crystal of irreducible
asymmetry.

Unfortunately for us the axinite has a habit of putting
on nearly every face possible in the triclinic system, so that
some little knowledge of its details is absolutely necessary.
The gem, however, takes its name from a prevailing-
tendency characteristic of it — of assuming axe-like forms.
It was formerly called Yanolite, in connection with its
violet hue, but as this color claim does not hold good, the
name has long been abandoned. Indeed no hue would
describe it, as it usually presents remarkable trichroism —
or what I shoidd rather term tri,-axechroism — which gives
rise to different hues according as it is viewed in relation
to the axes. The hues are often cinnamon-brown in one
direction, violet-blue in another, and olive-green in a third,
the most strongly marked, or prevailing hue, being some
tint or shade of clove-brown. It has an extremely brilliant,
glassy lustre, both on the striated and non-striated surfaces.
The striations are usually regular and parallel, but are
frequently subject to interruptions and contortions, con-
sequent upon irregularities of crystallisation.

Axinites usually occur in groups, in which the crystals
are implanted, and not disseminated — say, like garnets —
but stand lip with thin, clear, sharp edges, and Avith a
generally flattened aspect, which at once distinguish this
gem. it might also be remarked that, owing to its brittle-
it very often contains flaws, which, by their
interference of light, produce similar phenomena to those
exhibited by the minute fissures in opal.

As we previously observed, the axinite is known to occur
in nearly all the forms of the system. Fig. 55 is the most
simple-looking form ; and at first sight it would be mistaken
for a trimetric prism ; it is, however, nothing of the sort.
But to be able to read a crystal of this system correctly, it
is necessary to get a clear idea of its primitive octahedron,
and derived prisms, which differ from those of other
systems described (compare Fig. 28) in that all three axes
are inclined, so that faces do not stand at right angles,
owing to which the dome fac3S often present the appearance
of basal planes, and vice-vers&. Thus in Fig. 55 m-p
being a macro-pinacoid, P looks as though it ought to be
a brachy-pinacoid, and T as though it ought to be a basal
plane. Such, however, is by no means the case. Com-
prehension of this form is best obtained by reference to the
typical rectangular prism, in which the front must be
considered to be higher than the back, so that 'P in reality
is a pyramidal face. Further the face m-p must be
considered to be much larger, and meeting another face
coming from the other side of the prism, which two faces
have been truncated by this face P. So that P is a pris-
matic face, and not a brachy-pinacoid.

Fig. 56 shows the same form with the additions of new
faces ; 2 T is another pyramidal face, similar to 'P, in
winch case the vertical axis has been lengthened. At the
back is a plane 0, which represents the basal pinacoid, and
a continuation of the line at its left side would show the
position of the basal plane if extended across the crystal,
and consequently shows that 'P is a pyramidal face.
The small five-sided face at the right-hand top (P'), has its
base parallel to tbis restored line, consequently it is a dome
face, whilst the long face which truncates the macro-pina-
coid (m-p) and the pyramid (;P) is a macro-pyramid.

But notwithstanding the diversity of forms under which
this gem appears, Fig. 57 is its typical and by far its
most common form, whose axe-like aspect has earned for
the gem its name. It will be seen that each of its six faces
is a rhomb ; sometimes the edges are truncated with
either one or more faces, as on the top left ; at others they
are not, but meet in their characteristic sharp edges ; but
the flattening from front to back causes the top angles to
assume still sharper edges, thereby giving it its axe-like
form.

The Natural Forms of Cyanite.

As Cyanite is often employed as a gem, it may be
advisable to describe its crystallographic form ; not so
much, perhaps, from its own importance as for the purpose
of preventing its being mistaken for sapphire, which
gem in many respects it resembles, and for which it is not
infrequently sold.

It usually occurs in long six-sided prisms, and might
therefore be mistaken for corundum. But it will be
noticed that whereas in corundum the angles are all 60deg.
and its form equilateral, in cyanite, owing to the obliquity
of the angles, the outline is not symmetrical, but has the
appearance of having been knocked on one side. Fig. 58
is a representation of a crystal now before me of a dark
ruby color, which might, perhaps, at first sight be mistaken
for that gem. The basal plane, however, does not
lie at right angles to the prism, but is inclined to it ;
nor is the obliquity confined to this plane. Fig. "* .>vs

December 1, 1891.

THE WATCHMAKER, JEWELER AND SILVERSMITH.

117

the obliquity in a basal section, which immediately
separates it from corundum. Crystils almost always
occur in groups lying upon their sides ; the prisms are
more or less flattened, usually very much so. They have
a distinctive pearly lustre, they are longitudinally striated,
and sometimes cross-hatched. They usually show a
highly pearly cleavage face, which, instead of being basal
or rhombohedral, as in the corundum, the principal
cleavage runs parallel to the micro-diagonal. Occurring
in amassed groups, basal planes are rarely seen, but im-
perfect cleavage fractures. The cleavage along the base is
quite dull and very imperfect compared with that along
either of the other directions. Pyramidal faces are always
absent.

In Figs. 59 and 60 the large front planes are those of the
macro-pinacoid, those at the sides are brachy-pinacoid, and
between them at each corner another plane or planes in-
tervene, pairs being developed at diagonally opposite
corners. These figures also exhibit the asymmetry of the
forms in this system. It will further be observed that the
angles between the right brachy and macro-pinacoids is
different from the angle between the same faces on the
left.

Fig. 60 shows a form where the macro- and brachy-
pinacoids are nearly equally developed, and the prismatic
faces hardly visible ; this, however, is not common. The
more us ral form is very much compressed like bundles of
laths.

For the sake of simplicity all through this series I have
purposely avoided all reference to actual goniometric
measurements ; altho' they are the bases of all exact
crystallography ; indeed it would be regarded by many as
an impossibility to teach an essentially mathematical sub-
ject without reference to the science upon which it is based.
But it is not the higher branches of the science that have
been aimed at in these articles, but to put the trade in
possession of sufficient facts to prevent their being mis-
taken in the nature of an uncut gem.

We may now, in response to numerous appeals, inform
our readers that these articles, further illustrated with a
well-executed series of plates taken from some of the finest
specimens in the world, with chapters on goniometric
measurements, pseudomorphism, non-crystalline substances,
etc., will shortly be published as the first volume of a series
of cheap, reliable, and useful Trade Handbooks we propose
publishing.

(Ufie d>arc|i{?j? " boN?incj-(iup,"

\|/HE loving-cup presented by the Marquis of Bute to
®x® Cardiff is a splendid piece of work, and so much off
the common line of things that it deserves the fullest
description to be accorded to it. It is the entire work of
Messrs. J. Crichton and Co., 47, George Street, Edinburgh,
upon whom it reflects the greatest possible credit. The
cup stands thirty-two inches high, is in silver richly gilt,
with fine gold shields, and profusely jeweled with dia-
monds, sapphires, amethysts, rubies, emeralds, carbuncles,
and aquamarines. In the top is a figure representing
Cardiff wearing a mural crown in diamonds, the face,
hands, and feet in life colors, the right foot resting on a
block of coal, and the left hand grasping a rudder. At her
feet, seated among water-lilies in enamel with diamond ■
centres, is the figure of Sabrina, the nymph of the Severn,
also with the nude parts of the figure colored. On the
base are three figures representing the three rivers Taff,
Ely, and Rhymney in flesh color and gilt, each holding the
emblematic urn of river-gods, out of which pours a stream
of water in rock-crystal. The figures are also seated among
water-lilies in white enamel with diamond centres, while
the leaves are made of green gold. The Taff, as repre-
senting a large river, has the hair and beard in silver, while
the other two rivers have the hair gilt, as representing

young men. Round the stem of the cup coils the Red
Dragon of Wales, studded with carbuncles, the claws set
with brilliant- diamonds, while the eyes are of bright
emeralds ; the dragon is represented as supporting the
body of the cup. The body of the cup is in pure Italian
style of an exquisite form, and bears on one side a shield
bearing the Cardiff arms, and on the other the shield of
the Marquis of Bute, beautifully enamelled. The two
handles are finely modelled in the Florentine style, with
winged caryatides, and pendant from each is a large drop
amethyst. The harmony of the whole thing is complete,
the various gems being grouped together in the happiest
manner.

■ ^*n==

©Jfte i^eefaefe-Mafter^' Qxftl'BHion.

^TINCE the inception of the idea of this exhibition, we
^D have tried the utmost in our power to further it.
From the first we have pointed out the advisability
of not limiting it to spectacles, but to cover the whole field
of optics. We must say we were a little disappointed
some nine or ten months ago that the idea did not develop
into an existing fact. We had numerous talks with lead-
ing opthalmic surgeons and editors of medical papers, and
as an outcome of this, prepared an article ready for
publication as soon as anything definite appeared ; but
alas ! the article had to remain unused month after month,
so that at last we decided to publish part of it only.
Judge our surprise then to read in our young contemporary,
the Optician, the accusation that we had copied their
original ideas. We do not say we can lay claim to them
entirely, as they were in part suggested by our medical
friends ; but their history shows they were in no way con-
nected with the Optician. The current number of the same
paper gives the following : — " It is intended to make the
exhibition an optical one in the general sense of the word,
and not a mere exhibition of ancient and modern
spectacles. . . This was our advice to the company in
the very first number of the Optician, and we are pleased
to note the company has adopted our views in the matter."
That's funny, isn't it ? considering we expressed the
same views before the paper was born ! We do not
object to a journal displaying interest in a trade, but
rather admire it ; but at the same time the editor must
remember there are others perspiring along life's road
beside himself,. or else, according to his own theory, we
might not get any rain, of which we have had such abun-
dance this year.

At last, however, there is an absolute prospect of the
exhibition taking form. At a dinner of the company,
which took place on the 12th ult., at the " Albion,"
Aldersgate Street, attended by a number of distinguished
guests, the Lord Chancellor alluded to the forthcoming
exhibition, which will show what the company had done
for the crafts it represented, and advocated its extension to
all instruments connected with the physical phenomena of
light. Sir Polydore De Keyser in replying, stated that the
company had fully made up their minds to hold the
exhibition, and that its progress had only been impeded
by the unfortunate illness of one or two of the members of
the livery elected to act in the matter. It thus becomes
evident that we may expect the proposed exhibition will now
soon take form.

.)(.

The gold prospects in Western Australia are still very
favorable. A colonial geologist has just returned from
there bringing back an exceptionally good report. The
three reefs, Parnell, Home Rule, and Mystery, are those
upon which he reports. Two men obtained a sackful of
material worth over £2,000. For at least a mile and a half
on one reef gold is present. One piece of quart/ weighing
25 lbs. yielded 9H ozs. of gold.

lis

THE WATCHMAKER, JEWELER AND SILVERSMITH. [December 1, 891.

Ma^yoraf GS^ain anil SiiaiLge far Man&liePc|.

His Grace the Puke of Portland is about to present to
the Borough of Mansfield, in his capacity as Lord of the

Manor, a gold badge and chain of office to be worn by tli2
Mayors of the new borough on official occasions.

It is a large circular badge with centre circle and four
side medallions, the centre one being devoted to the arms
of the corporation, which have been derived in large
measure from the arms of the Dukedom, but with the
differences necessary in such cases. The cross moline of
the Bentinck family, differenced by having a fleur-de-lis
termination to each end in gold, separates the four divi-
sions of the shield, while the head of the white hart on a
ground sable occurs in the first and fourth quartering?.
The second and third quarterings are occupied by hanks of
cotton, referring to the trade of the town.

The arms are given in correct heraldic colors. On either
side of the arms are the Rose, Shamrock, and Thistle,
representing the United Kingdom. The border round the
shield containing the arms has the motto of the borough — ■
Sicut quercus virescit ind/ustria (Industry flourishes as the
oak) in gold letters on an enamelled ground. The crest,
which is given in the small circle at the top'of the badge,
is the famous Parliament oak represented in its full vigour.
Beside this are two stars, and in front of it are two cross
crosslets fitche in saltire. A wreath of oak, relating to
the forest of Sherwood, around the badge in enamel, gives
a beautiful variety to the chain. The lower medallion on
the badge is occupied by the arms of the County of
Nottingham, in correct heraldic colors. The side medal-
lions severally contain the two distinct crests of the Port-
land family — the Bentinck crest being two arms gaunt-
letted issuing from a ducal coronet, each holding an
ostrich plume — the nowed snake of the Cavendish family
being in the other medallion.

On the reverse of the badge is given the following
inscription : —

"This chain and badge of office was presented by His
Grace the Duke of Portland, Lord of the Manor, etc., to
the Borough of Mansfield, in the year of its incorporation,
1891."

The badge depends from the centre link of the chain,
which, as is usual in such cases, contains the arms of the
Lord of the Manor. The lions (supporters) are beautifully
modelled, one being finished oxydised on gold, a color the
makers have lately introduced with great effect. The
centre link is beautifully arranged, the whole being held
together by mounts which are almost invisible. Two civic ^
maces support the centre link, and the letter " M," the
initial of the Borough of Mansfield, makes a good connecting-
member, forming altogether, with the links, a rich decora-
tive band, without being too obtrusive.

The larger links have suitable shields in harmony with
the rest of the design, and over them is a mural coronet to;
indicate the mayoral office. There is a shield on the re-
verse for the names of the mayors, while the obverse is so
made that it can be taken off by the makers from time to
time to enamel the arms, crest, or monogram of the mayor
for the time being. On each side of the front of the
shields appears sprigs of oak, thus carrying out the motive
of the design.

The commission to supply the chain and badge was
given to Mr. W. H. Jolly, of Mansfield, who entrusted the
order to Messrs. T. and J. Bragg, of Birmingham, and the
work has been carried out in their finest style.

}fe\/ far ®y/e<\m»%ury <J\rt (S^aPPer^.

Another very elaborate piece of work by the same firm
as the above is the key that has been manufactured for
presentation to the Mayor of Wednesbury on the occasion
of his opening the new art gallery. The design is a rich
Renaissance, and strictly accords with the character of the
building. A richly-fluted column rise? from the ward of the
key itself, dividing into floriated scrolls as it approaches
the head, and supporting an enamelled shield, one on each
side, while two important side scrolls support a projecting
and arched cornice, which gives a forcible and distinctive
character to the design. Above the centre of the arch
appears the crest of Wednesbury — the blast furnace, having
the symbol of Mars in the front, with flaming rays at the
sides. Seated in graceful attitude on each side of the
cornice are two charmingly-modelled figures of Cupids, one
with sketch book and brush in the act of regarding the scene
before him, representing Art ; the other, pensive and
studious with compasses in hand, as if considering a pro-
blem, representing Science.

The shields are supported by a series of wrought golden
scrolls, which are intermediate between the bolder ones
forming the main features of the design, and which,
being open, give a lightness and elegance to the whole.
The central need for color is supplied by the enamelled
shield of Wednesbury, on the obverse, and by the ribbon
issuing from festoons drooping from the two side
scrolls. The reverse is equally elaborate, the arms being
those of Mr. J. H. Thursfield, the present mayor, with his
motto also in enamel. The ornament of the key is of a
most careful character, every part being carved by hand,
thus giving effects not otherwise obtainable, and the rich
tint of the gold harmonises well with the distinctive colors
of the heraldic enamels.

The key is supplied by Mr. Westley, jeweler, of Wednes-
bury, in whose shop it will be exhibited previous to pre-
sentation.

UfU MariCetA.

DIAMONDS.

The gold jeweled snuff-box, the value of which was
£1,000, presented by actors and managers to H.R.H . the
Prince of Wales on the occasion of his Jubilee, was manu-
factured by the Goldsmiths' Company, Regent Street.

In London, during the early part of the month, chiefly
through the demand of Amsterdam and Antwerp houses,
rough was brought up rather readily, although the supply
was by no means behind, and prices a little stiff ruled. As
the month wore on, and the foreign markets became sup-
plied, prices eased a bit.

In Amsterdam, during the early and middle part of the
month, business in polished stuff was brisk and prices
sustained, but fell off a bit within the last few days when
the foreign clique, which are always ready to take advan-
tage of any opportunity, tried to bring down the prices.
There are numerous orders on hand for Russia and Northern
India, but owing to the low rate of exchange of the rouble
they cannot be executed. As soon as there is any improve-
ment in the rate of exchange great activity will follow.
Factories are running full time, as the demand from,
America and Prance for small middle class stuff is fairly
good.

In Paris diamond- setters are all in full swing ; and the
United States have bought freely, considerably augmenting
the holiday trade, which has been very good. Owing to
the project of imposing a government tax on polished dia-
monds at their entrance into France (which up to the present
have been admitted duty free) , some amount of local specu-
lation has gone on in order to get a good stock in hand
should this become law. This duty is mainly advocated
by the Jura and French cutting houses. It may, however
be said that the local Syndical Chamber of Diamonds and
Precious Stones, at their last meeting, voted strongly
against it,- They pointed out a fact, which few protec-

December 1, 1891.]

THE WATCHMAKER. JEWELEE AND SILVERSMITH.

119

tionists realise, viz., that the tax would naturally drive out
foreign buyers from their markets to others, where diamonds
are free of duty.

SILVER.

This month we have to note the lowest point reached
by silver since 1889 ; the quotation for bars in the market
on the 7th inst, being 43|-d. ; it has since recovered a
trifle to 43jd.

The fall has been attributed to the defeat of the Free
Coinage Party in the United States, but some weight
must also be attached to the suggestion that over supply
may be an important factor in the decline of the value of
the white metal. The enormous production of the
Australian Broken Hill Mines, averaging something like
200,000 ozs. per week, together with that of the mines
of the United States and Mexico, some of which have been
unusually active, have put into stock more silver than there
is a demand for, and only till the call exceeds the supply
can we hope for any improvement. It is expected that
India and the Balkan States will shortly require silver for
the purposes of trade and coinage, and Spain and Portugal
probably may also require silver for the latter purpose.
The satisfaction of these demands will no doubt cause
some slight upward tendency.

COPPER-

Copper has been easier this month and has declined
from £46 5s. at the commencement, to £45 15s., the
present price.

TIN.

Tin has been firmer, rising from £89 5s. at the
.commencement of the month to £91 10s. on the 14th;
but has since drooped to £90 15s.

LEAD.
Lead has been dull and lower, commencing with £12 5s.
it has steadily fallen to £11 12s. 6d., its present figure.
SPELTER.
Spelter is quiet with an easier tone ; there being a
slight fall from £23 7s. to a present quotation of £23.
QUICKSILVER.
Quicksilver has been dull and quiet at £8 (Rothschilds'),
but has nevertheless maintained that price.

PLATINUM.

The skying of Platinum was only transient as we
suggested at the time, and is now steady at about 45s.
MOTHER-O'-PEARL-

There was a large supply of mother-o'-pearl for the fifth
London auction of the year, and a very active demand,
prices on the~whole showing some improvement. Queens-
land sold again remarkably well ; some fine white
shells at higher prices than previously paid, but clean
medium and chicken were no dearer, and some mixed
yellowish shells sold cheaper. West Australian sold gene-
rally briskly at firm prices. Sharks Bay sold very well,
the fine lots at much higher prices. Black- edged in fair
demand; fine quality of good color dearer. Mixed (lull
shells cheaper, and not of ready sale. Egyptian were not
plentiful, and prices are fully 5s. dearer; also Bombay,
which are scarce. Manila were very firm, and pickings
and chicken higher. Macassar dearer. Mussel 5s. higher.
Panama 3s. dearer for clean sorts, but grubby neglected.
Japan, no good shells offered. Corossos nuts are again
higher, and extreme rates paid for the few offering. £13
. asked for Guayaquil. The next sales will be 8th December.
TORTOISESHELL.
There was a larger supply for the tortoiseshell sales than
for many years — a total of 1\ tons weight. There was,
however, generally a good competition, and the higli prices
of the previous auctions were nearly maintained for West
India, Havannah, and Nassau shell ; some lots of pickings
and chicken were rather lower. Hoof sold about firmly,
but yellowbelly of good quality advanced. Fine selected
was easier. Zanzibar and Bombay sorts rather easier ;

Bombay pickings dearer. Singapore and Macassar sold
well, the quality was good. Sydney steady. Loggerhead
(West India) sold well.

IVORY.

The October sale commenced with a fair competition,
and lasted five days. East India soft large and medium
teeth were £2 3s. per cwt. lower; hard, irregular, but
average last sales rates. Billiard-ball pieces steady to
£2 5s. per cwt. lower on the smaller sizes. Bagatelle £2 5s.
per cwt. lower. Cut points for balls soft £2 3s. per cwt.
lower ; hard, steady ; undersize and defective points un-
changed. Cut hollows, larger sizes, rather dearer ; small
steady ; hard firm ; Cores, none offered ; ball scrivelloes,
£2 4s. per cwt. higher ; Cape, none offered. Egyptian
Malta : Soft, steady, to £1 2s. per cwt. lower ; hard declined
£2 4s. per cwt. West Coast African : Large teeth, steady,
to £2 lower ; small and medium, £2 3s. lower ; scrivelloes,
£2 4s. per cwt. lower. Bangle teeth steady to £2 per cwt.
lower.

BOARD OF TRADE RETURNS-

Imports. — The total value of clocks and parts thereof
imported during October, 1890 and '91, are as follows : —

1890. 1891.

France £13,950 £12,824

United States .. .. 12,614 8,158

Other Countries .. .. 28,428 23,074

Totals

£54,992

£44.056

Showing a decrease of nearly £11,000, or 20 per cent.
The figures for the year now stand (up to October 31st.)

1890.

1891.

From Fiance

. £142,542

£128,573

From United States

86,230

84,617

From, other Countries

180,096

191,408

Totals

£408,868

£404,598

From which it is obvious that far less French Clocks
are being imported, and more from other countries,
principally from Germany and Austria.

The total value of watches and parts thereof imported
during October, 1890, was £57,408; for October, 1891,
£63,690, showing an increase of £5,290.

The figures for the year 1891 up to October 31st, are
£519,269, and for 1890, £580,888.

-S$>e-

(U§e Montana %,u6^/ M\nei>.

ANY people have been a little surprised at the attitude
we took in regard to the Montana Ruby Mines, and
at the difference between our opinion and others.
We reply that in each case the opinions were founded
upon the knowledge of the persons expressing them. We
have been in touch with the Montana Mines for ten years,
and know considerably more about them than has yet been
published. We have received the warmest congratulations;
from America, from those who have had the opportunity
of making a special study of them, for what we have said in
regard to them. Mr. George Kunz has been kind enough
to send us his report on American gems for the census
bulletin, in which he says in regard to the sapphire : "Of
the corundum gems (sapphire, ruby, and other colored
varieties), no sapphires <?/' fine blue color, and no rubies of fine-
red color have been, formed. The only locality which has
been at all prolific is the placer ground between Ruby and
Eldorado bars on the Missouri river, sixteen miles east of
Helena, Mont. Here sapphires are found in glacial auri-
ferous gravels while sluicing for gold, and until now have
been considered a by-product. Up to the present time
they have never been systematically mined ; in 1889 one
company took the option of four thousand acres of the river
banks, and several smaller companies have since been formed
with a view of mining these gems alone or in connection
with gold. The colors of the gems obtained, although

120

THE WATCHMAKER, JEWELER AND SILVERSMITH. [December 1, 1891.

beautiful and interesting, are not the standard Hue or red
shade* gt neraUij demanded by the ■public. Further, in a private
letter Mr. Kunz says, "I know, and the Montana people
all know, that nothing, even a half carat in weight, true ruby
red or true sapphire blue has ever been found in Montana,
although I have seen inferior colored and native Ceylonese-
cut sapphires offered as Montana sapphires by Helena and
Colorado dealers." In this latter fraud we can parallel
Mr. Kunz's experience, as we have on several occasions
been pained to see the love of mother country so imposed
upon by fellow-countrymen. We have been shown by
Americans visiting this country sapphires and rubies, which
they treasured with commendable national pride, as being
real American gems, either got direct from Montana for
them, or else purchased by them at that place. Sometimes
they have been just as they left the Cingalese hands, and
at others the fronts have been re-cut. Mr. Streeter, Mr.
Mallaby-Peeley (a gentleman said to be interested in the
purchase money), and the vendor are now on their way out
to inspect the property. The nature of their report we
may anticipate.

-: a :-

HlDD

ENITE TO THE

Froi

Mr. Hidden, the discoverer of the gem that bears his
name, is working hard at the Emerald and Hiddenite Mines,
Alexander Co., North Carolina, where he first found his
beautiful addition to the gems. A shaft fifty feet deep has
been sunk through gneiss, and a fairly good number of
hiddenites, together with the yellow spodumene, have been
found. A company is now being organised by H. A.
Swartz to manufacture hiddenite jewelry. The gem is
meeting with a great demand, and prices for it run side
by side with diamonds.

ft. Substitute for j3oart.

A new substitute for boart has been brought out by an
American firm, called carborundum. Several lapidarists
who have used it speak highly of it.

Rose-colored Garnets.

It is said that the old locality for these rare gems has
been rediscovered on the Rancho de San Juan Morelos,
Mexico. This is the locality of the one described twenty
years ago by Daubree.

A Large

[ndahoan Opal.

A fine opal of 100 carats has recently arrived in New
York, from the North American Gem Opal Mining Co's
Mine, Idaho. It is said to be a highly lustrous stone of
splendid colors.

eerschaum i

n yVLi

News is to hand of unheard-of wealth of the above
somewhat rare commodity, about twenty-five miles north of
Silver City. Slabs five feet long are talked about ; the seam
averages eight inches in width. With such a supply as this
there is doubtless a future for meerschaum at present not

thought of.

Fine Turquoises.

Santa Fe is reported to be turning out some fine tur-
quoises of cerulean blue, the color so greatly admired.
Most of those in the market are either dark, or shaded
with green, the latter in part produced by the fire employed
by the Indians in mining for them.

Producing Pearls Artificially.

A report from Thursday Island states that some experi-
ments initiated two years ago in that place, in the direction
of causing the Meliagrvna, or pearl oyster, to produce pearls
by artificial treatment, have proved substantially successful.

flings ffeW and ffobefaorhf)^

J*Tew Jeweling Tool.

There are at the present time
before the public several jeweling
tools. The annexed illustration
shows an automatic one invented
by J. L. Hutchinson, La Porte,
Ind. To cut setting for a jewel,
place tool in tail- stock and taper
in head of lathe and see that
corner of cutter E comes to
centre. If it does not, turn screw D back or forward
until it comes to centre. Now drill hole half as large as
the jewel you wish to set ; then place jewel in slot A, and
bring index finger over until jewel is tight in slot A, being
careful to have jewel in centre of slot and not to one side.
Now turn set-screw C up tight, and tool will cut setting
exact size.

Testing Vision.

Of the various instruments that have been brought out
for testing the sight there is certainly none, so far as we
have seen, to equal the opsiometer brought out by Messrs.
Raphael and Co., Oxford Street, W., which in principle is
simplicity itself, and can be worked by any intelligent per-
son. In form it is a small mahogany cabinet, 13 in. by 9 in.,
which can either stand upon the counter or upon a tripod
made expressly for that purpose ; under either circumstance
its ornament is only second to its use. There are two eye
pieces through which the patient looks and attempts to
read what he sees behind ; until he is successful handles
at the sides are turned. When he is able to read satis-
factorily two numbers, etc., appear at apertures in front
of the instrument, showing, firstly, the nature of the lens
required, whether concave or convex ; secondly, whether
they are both alike or odd ; and, thirdly, their focal length.
Any sight from five to forty-eight convex, and from 0000
to twelve concave can be tested by this instrument, and as
both eyes work independently, it can rightly prescribe for
eyes simply impossible by many other methods ; and,
lastly, the price of the instrument complete is only 45s.

We recently paid a visit to the showrooms of Messrs.
Townsend and Co., art metalworkers, 62, Holborn Viaduct,
and Birmingham. We are extremely sorry we did not
have that pleasure many years ago, for they exhibit a large
number of articles of a class that we have taken a great deal
of fruitless trouble to obtain. Prominent amongst the
things that we were very much struck with was their mag-
nificent selection of metal clock-cases, which display a great
deal of taste, are well executed, and represent numerous
styles of art. They are usually in polished brass or copper
with ivory dials, and in sizes from a few inches high suit-
able for boudoir, to massive twenty inch suitable for
bracket chimers. In many instances they have employed
inlaid Japanese plaques with very beautiful effect. On
a future occasion we purpose alluding to other of their
productions ; meanwhile we strongly advise our readers
to pay them a visit.

In the Scarborough County Court, Mr. H. Weissbeck
sought to recover £15, value of a diamond ring sold to Mr.
Hodgkin, of Horsgate Lees. Since the day of sale Mr.
Hodgkin died, and as there was no evidence of the ring
having been delivered, his Honor gave a verdict for the
defendant with costs.

December 1, 1891.

THE WATCHMAKER, JEWELER AND SILVERSMITH.

121

LETTERS TO THE EDITOR.

" IS IT LAWFUL TO ADVERTISE ? "
To the Editor of The Watchmaker, Jeweler and

Silversmith.
Sir, — I am highly interested by your note in last month's
journal concerning advertising and the trade. I only wish
1 had had the moral courage to strike out years ago and I
should have been a rich man now. The class of goods I
manufacture are sold in the very best houses in the trade ;
but of course they cannot take many, and their wants could
be supplied with the work of half a dozen workmen.
Now it is an undeniable fact that I produce some of the
finest goods of their sort in the market, and yet, because
they are good enough to go into the best houses, I am de-
barred from making my business known, and so extend it.
I often wonder how long this state of things will last, and
if I were a young man again to-morrow, that day should
break up this dog-in-the-manger autocracy. My advice to
every young man is make yourself known, take profit by
my experience, don't stop in the background for the benefit
of a few, but have full credit for what you produce.

Yours, etc., " Too Late."

Sir, — I quite agree with your remarks about advertising
ones business. I am sure you will admit I make some of
the finest watches in the kingdom. The other day I was
sent for by a gentleman in hot haste, to whom I hurried in
expectation of an order. When I got there (he must have
thought I was some school-boy) he demanded an explana-
tion of me, how it was that a watch had been brought into
his shop to repair with my name on ? What business I
had to let my name appear in public, to whom I ought to
be entirely unknown ? And upon pleading my right to use
my own name he informed me he should close my account.

I enclo3e my card and remain yours, etc.,

"Live and Let Live."

The following is an extract from a private letter from one
at the head of the jewelry trade in America.
" On page 87 of last month's journal I notice a little
note as to lawful advertising. I must say that when the
English jewelers' papers are compared with those published
in America, of which up to the present time we have three
or four weeklies, several monthlies, and recently a daily,
which up to the present have apparently flourished, it
seems to me that you have good work before you in con-
verting some of the English manufacturers to think as
their American brethren do."

©Jfi<

Ouafify of
©Y/Y'atcfieA.

£mg?i$ft

£70ME interesting correspondence has recently been
^J going on, which will show the trade what a jealous
champion they have in Mr. Tripplin. We first have
his letter to the editor of the Journal Suisse d'Hbrologerie, as
follows : — " The October number of the Journal Suisse
d'Horologerie reaches me to day, and in the course of your
talented articles upon the exhibition of watches, etc., in
Paris in 1889, 1 notice an error which it is my duty to
point out to you. You say that the proportion of recom-
penses gained by Great Britain is 73-8 per cent. This
would be true if the number of exhibitors had been given
correctly, but that has not been done. The fact is the
English watchmaking section was composed only of eleven
exhibitors, deduction being made for one outside competi-
tion, and that these eleven exhibitors (the pick of the trade)
carried away eleven awards, in addition to eleven diplomas
as collaborators. This exceptional fact, so worthy of re-
mark, changes the proportion cited from 78-8 per cent, to

100 per cent., and in all justice to this section I ask you to
correct this error. I would remind you - that I 'was the
organiser of this section and the judge of it. From thence
comes my knowledge of the facts, which are, moreover,
proved by the French and English catalogues."

Our Swiss contemporary replying to the foregoing letter
says : " We accede voluntarily to the request of the honor-
able Mr. Tripplin. We add only for the justification of the
figures quoted by our journal that they have been borrowed
textually from an official report of the Swiss juror, and,
moreover, the official catalogue puts as 13 and not 11 the
number of English exhibitors. Quite recently we received
the report, equally official, of Mr. Paul Gamier, member,
like Messrs. Tripplin and Brandt, of the International Jury
for Watchmaking. His figures are in accord with Mr.
Tripplin as far as England is concerned ; they differ again
for other countries from those of Mr. Brandt. Also we
believe that we shall do well to give again the comparative
table of awards which results from the report of Mr.
Gamier. In order to get at the proportion, if we deduct
for the number of the exhibitors that of the houses not in
the. competition, we shall find that France has obtained
72-9 per cent, of the rewards, Switzerland 83 -9 per cent.,
and Great Britain cent per cent. But as far as this goes,
United States, Roumania, and Russia should be credited
equally with this last result also ; but we believe as far
as this goes, the comparison between countries which have
a few exhibitors and others of which in one case 147, and
in another 280, is hardly possible. We have certainly laid
stress upon the superiority and the variety of the products
exhibited by England to allow our honorable correspondent
to permit us to consider Switzerland as having come out of
this international tournament first, as far as regards the
proportion of awards; there is no place, moreover, to accord
to these figures more importance than they possess."

J^iilWr^mifftfS)' cmsL ^ecoefW^' dmciCet d>fu6.

The second annual smoking concert will be held at the
Freemasons' Tavern, Great Queen Street, W.C. (large hall),
in aid of the Silver Trade Pension Society, on Monday, the
7th hist., Mr. J. M. Garrard in the chair. The stewards
on this occasion will be Messrs. W. F. Anderson, Howard
Barnard, T. H. Brinton, C. Comyns, S. Drayson, F. Eady,
A. S. Harris, W. A. J. Hickes, R. E. Hill, H. Pearson, W.
Radcliffe, A. T. Slater, J. W. Thomas, C. Warwick, E. H.
Wellby. The concert will be under the direction of Mr.
James Kift. Tickets can be obtained of the stewards, Is.
and 2s. 6d. each, or of the hon. secretary, Mr. C. J. Hill, Jun.,
510, Oxford Street, W. We trust the trade will give this
grand old institution all the support they can, as it in every
way deserves it. Whilst the cricket club, while it is their
innings, is to be congratulated upon thinking of others.

N the optical trade specially, and all the allied branches,
business is in a very satisfactory condition. Spec-
tacles of all sorts are in good demand. Ther-
mometers and barometers are being produced in novel
patterns. Foreign trade is also better, there being-
numerous good large indents to hand.

i}\ R. JOSH VERDIN has given a sum of £20,000 for
the establishment of technical schools at Northwich
and Winsford.

The Japan Herald is the authority for the figures of gold
output in Siberia from 1834 to 1887 inclusive — 30,000,000
ozs., £120,000,000, and this with but little machinery,
efforts rudely systematised, and stealage. When the great
Siberian railroad, to which we have previously alluded, is
completed from the Caspian Sea to Vladivostock, on the
Pacific, the output of Russian gold will bo groatly increased.

122

THE WATCHMAKER, JEWELER AND SILVERSMITH.

[December 1, 1891.

(#n anc[ ©ut t^e d>ourt,&.

At the Marlborough Street Police Court, November 2nd,
John Paniells, 32, described as an art dealer, of York
Street, Hackney Road, was charged, on remand, with
stealing a diamond brooch worth £27, and belonging to
John Vander, a jeweler, of New Bond Street. Mr. Vander
said that on the 18th of December last Daniells entered his
shop with a woman, and after inspecting some diamond
brooches, asked to see one of a particular form which he
had not in stock. Going to the safe and leaving an assist-
ant at the counter, he (Mr. Vander) procured some
diamonds suitable for such a brooch. Daniells, however,
said that he would have to consult another person upon the
matter, and left the shop with his companion. A few
minutes later a lady, whom he knew well as a customer,
and who had been in the shop during a part of the time that
1 >aniells was there, returned to make a communication to
him, which induced him to look at the brooches which he
had been showing. He then found that one was missing.
On the morning of the 4th Oct. Daniells called again,
when, by a curious coincidence, the same lady was again
present. He (Mr. Vander) complied with his request to be
shown some brooches, and kept him in conversation until
a policeman was fetched. Police-constable 208 C said that
when he took Daniells into custody, he said, " I know no-
thing about it." Subsequently he denied that he was ever
in the prosecutor's shop in his life. The prisoner, who was
also charged with stealing a diamond brooch worth £23,
from Messrs. Roland and Fraser, Jewelers, of Regent Street,
on September 25th, by means of a similar pretence,
pleaded guilty, and Mr. Hannay sentenced him to two con-
secutive terms of six months' imprisonment.

Messes. Kendal and Dent, Jewelers, 106, Cheapside,
recently sought to recover £4, alleged to be due for a watch
supplied to the defendant, Mr. H. Gravell, Larkhall Lane,
Clapham. The defence was that the defendant was only
an agent for the plaintiffs. The watches were not sold
individually to the defendant. The plaintiffs' solicitor said
the defendant was not their agent. He bought the watches
out and out. The learned Commissioner said he was very
much inclined to think the defendant was only an agent.
Subsequently the plaintiffs were non-suited. The defen-
dant's solicitor asked for costs, but the learned Commissioner
declined to allow them. The plaintiffs' solicitor said they
had agreed to withdraw the action, each party paying his
own costs, but the defendant declined. A non-suit was then
entered, without costs.

A curious circumstance transpired at the hearing of a
case, when a Jew, named Mark Rubenstein, was challenged
by a fraternal Yid that he did not possess a watch, upon
which he immediately produced one. As this turned out to
be a gold one bearing the monogram THOB and the
crest of the Beresfords, the magistrate felt it necessary to
have further inquiries made about it.

At Horsham County Court, November 17, Mr. Dench,
Watchmaker, Horsham, sought to recover £1 for work done
from William Wilier, it appeared an agreement had been
made with the defendant to repair his " watches, clocks,
etc.," for 10s. a year. Plaintiff said he had done the
repairing for three years, but had only received payment
for the first year. Defendant denied that plaintiff had done
anything for him since October, 1888. Plaintiff agreed to
do the work for 10s. a year, and when witness took him a
certain article he " wanted 8s. or 9s. to send it to Germany,
or Italy, or somewhere," whereupon witness had it done
by another watchmaker, who had worked for him ever
since. Plaintiff: It was a musical-box. I never said any-
thing about repairing musical-boxes. Defendant : He
igreed to repair everything, and then when I took him a
mu ical-boxhe "jibbed" at it. His Honor suggested
that •'•'etc." might mean musical-boxes, but plaintiff said

it meant brooches. William Baker stated that he had
repaired watches and clocks for defendant since 1888. —
Defendant held that plaintiff broke his contract by refusing
to repair the musical-box. The case was eventually
adjourned till next Court, so that further evidence might
be brought as to whether any work had been done by
plaintiff for defendant since 1888.

A-n important case was decided by Mr. Justice Charles
on November 2nd, in which Messrs. Chappie and Mantle,
the well-known silversmiths of the Strand, sought to
recover £1,380 for jewelry supplied to the defendant,
Mrs. Fletcher (who was sued as a married woman having
separate estate at the time of entering into the contract).
The jewelry in question was delivered to Mrs. Fletcher
about November, 1890. The defendant, William Fletcher,
denied that the goods were purchased with his know-
ledge and consent, and his wife pleaded that at the
time of the contract she was a married woman not
possessed of any separate property. A petition in bank-
ruptcy had been presented against the defendant, William
Fletcher, in April, 1891, and he was subsequently adjudi-
cated a bankrupt. The plaintiffs' counsel, in his opening,
said he should offer no evidence against the defendant,
William Fletcher, inasmuch as he was a bankrupt ; but
with respect to Mrs. Fletcher he submitted, from her
answers to interrogatories, that at the time of the contract
she had separate property (in the shape of other jewelry
previously purchased), with respect to which she must be
deemed to have contracted with in the case of ' ' Bonner v.
Lyon" (38 W.R., 541). The defendant's counsel sub-
mitted that there was no evidence that at the time of the
contract Mrs. Fletcher had any such separate property.
The whole of the jewelry formerly obtained by her had been
disposed of before this contract was entered into. The
defendant, Mrs. Fletcher, was then called, and stated that
at the time of this contract she had neither the goods pre-
viously purchased, nor the proceeds thereof, in her posses-
sion. In cross-examination she. admitted that she had
pawned these goods and had had similar transactions with
Messrs. Benson, Mappin and Co. and others. She had
vouchers for amounts received from the pledging, and paid
away, but not with her. At the time of the contract now
sued on she had neither any of the jewelry which was
obtained from those firms nor any proceeds thereof. The
defendant's counsel then contended that, whatever the
judgment against the wife, he was entitled to judgment
with costs with regard to the husband, although he was
bankrupt (" Guy v. Churchill," 35 Ch. Div.), inasmuch as
the plaintiffs had chosen to proceed against him up to the
trial, and had done nothing to obtain a stay or discontinu-
ance of the action. Mr. Justice Charles gave judgment in
favor of William Fletcher, and against Mrs. Fletcher with
costs.

Maurice Woolfe surrendered to his bail at the Central
Criminal Court, November 18, to an indictment charging
him with having made a certain false declaration. It was
stated that foreign plate, unless of a certain standard,
could not be imported into this country unless it was for
the private use of the person importing it, and in the
latter case it was necessary that a declaration should be
made. The defendant in April last imported a large
quantity of Dutch silver goods, making the declara-
tion that it was for his own use. He, however, sold
it to a dealer in Long Acre. Mr. Cock, Q.C., urged, in
defence, that the silver was very little below the standard
required, and that defendant had sold the plate for a
relative in Holland. The Recorder said that he thought
the justice of the case would be met by a sentence of three
days' imprisonment. As a result the defendant was at
once discharged.

At the Guildhall, November 17, William Carlyle was
committed for trial upon a charge of stealing jewelry, etc.,
from his employer, Mr. S. Samuel, of Houndsditch.

DieisWiJ 1, 1^91 ]

TTTE WATCHMAKER, JEWELER AND SILVERSMITH.

123

£^anc|om Sri effete.

Shot Himself to Avoid Arrest. — A young man recently
ente eel Messrs. Knight and Son's establishment in West-
green Road, Tottenham, and offered in pledge two watches.
The assistant, seeing that they answered the description of
some stolen property, questioned the man, and told him
that he should detain him. The man begged hard to be .
allowed to go, as he had only just come out of prison, but
this the assistant refused. Then suddenly the captive
pulled out a revolver and shot himself in the head. He
is now in hospital, his condition being serious. We con-
gratulate the assistant upon the choice of his customer.

More Window Smashing. — Another jeweler's window
was smashed the other day, that of Messrs. Lowenstark
and Sons, in the Strand. The perpetrator, who had the
appearance of a tramp, gave no reason (or " logic ") for his
conduct.

Curious City Custom. — In 1831 a trust was established
by Mr. Alderman Wilson to provide funds to supply a
diamond ring to every Lord Mayor elected from Castle
Baynard. After all these years the present Lord Mayor be-
came eligible for it, and was accordingly presented with one.

Silver Cradle for the Mayor of Chorley. — The mem-
bers of the Town Council of Chorley have recently presented
their Mayor with a silver cradle, in the form of a silver
boat, upon whose sides the borough arms and those of the
Mayor are connected with festoons of roses, with turtle
doves at helm and prow. The boat rests upon four sup-
parts rising from a silver table, upon an ebony stand.

Five Pound Gold Pieces. — It is said that in many of
the colonies the five-pound pieces are still at a high
premium. As much as seven pounds has been paid for
them in Melbourne.

Watches for the Blind. — A new watch has recently
been invented in Switzerland for the blind. A small peg
is set in the middle of each figure. When the hour hand
is moving towards a given hour the peg for that hour drops.
The owner, when he wants to know the time, finds which
peg is down, from which he is able to tell the time.

A Saw with Diamond Teeth. — A circular saw is now in
the market for sawing up slabs of sandstone, granite, etc.
One wonders why it has not been introduced long ago-
seeing the marvellous cores that have been cut through the
hardest rocks and brought up from the depths of the earth
with the diamond drills — as they have been in use so long.

Horses in Spectacles. — We are informed that Messrs.
Dollond recently made a pair of deep concave spectacles
for a horse, with the object of making him lift his feet up,
and so secure a race of high steppers. To many this may
seem novel, but in point of fact it is nothing of the sort.
We remember a Belgian boy at school, whose father was a
breeder of funeral horses, who told us that for a long time
colts, when broken in, were put into spectacles to make
them lift their feet over imaginary high stones, until they
did so without the spectacles. We, however, think there
are great biological principles involved; that those little
understood operations, known as natural selection, and
other factors which pass sometimes under the heading of
Darwinism, are responsible as much for our " breeds " of
horses as of pigeons. Slow modifications are going on
still, which in tertiary times have evolved the horse as we
know him to-day from a small five-toed animal.

Something like Charity. — Messrs. Salanson and Co.,
High Street, Bristol, recently distributed over a thousand
pairs of spectacles to poor people. This is not the first
time they have performed this kind and generous act, and
we hope it is appreciated in Bristol as it ought to be.

Another Relic of Nelson. — H.R.H. Princess Louise,
while on her way to Kellie Castle, recently stopped at
Anstruther for some time, and visited some of the principal
places of interest, including a local watchmaker's, where

they purchased a watch on account of the interesting story
attached to it. A native of Cellardyke acted as steward on
Lord Nelson's flagship. Something went wrong with the
galley-clock, and Nelson gave him this watch to keep things
right. It has remained in the family for some time, but came
into Mr. Lumsden's possession latterly, and in answer to
the inquiries of .the party he produced it, and they eagerly
bought it.

The Mahdi as a Collector. — It is said that the chief
objects of interest to the Mahdi are clocks, and that his
palace at Khartoum contains over 1,500 of one sort or
another ; it is also added that they are most of them out
of order, and that the false prophet is ineffectually adver-
tising for someone to enter his service as clockmaker.

" Why do men want watches ? " asked Mr. Commissioner
Kerr the other day in a watch-club case, " when there are
clocks in every street." We don't know whether the
Commissioner thought that men camped out all night
under them so as to be able to sse when it was time to rise
in the morning.

We regret to hear that Mr. Spiller has severed his
connection with the Photographic News. There was no
paper existing which had a higher scientific authority
behind it than Mr. John Spiller, whose assistance was
always at the command of the readers of this journal. It
is only another instance of what a man will do for the
subject he loves. For while his confreres have struck out
in lines which have resulted in Chairs and F.R.S.'s this
worthy savant has been content with gratuitous work and to
remain plain John Spiller.

We hear that a movement is on foot for the purchase
for the nation of an absolutely unique gold cup, some six ,
inches high, of exquisite workmanship, very possibly of,
English origin. It was, in any case, during several
generations among the English Crown Jewels. It ceased,
we believe, to appear in the inventory of these about the
period of James I., and for a long time subsequently,
its home was a convent near Bruges. Not long ago it was
the property of Baron Pichon, of Paris, who valued it at
£20,000. It is offered to the country by its present
possessor, Mr. Wertheimer, of New Bond' Street, W., for the
sum of £8,000, which he himself paid for it ; and he joins,
it is said, with several distinguished amateurs in a sub-
scription towards raising a considerable part, or it may be,
even the whole of this sum.

The Photographic Cabinet Makers' Society held their
annual dinner on the 7th ult. at the Mitre Hotel, Chancery
Lane. Mr. E. Myers presided. There are about 135 mem-
bars of this trade in London, of which 110 are members of
the society. Selections of music by Mr. H. H. Heap, R.A.M.,
were given. In replying to the toast " The prosperity of
the society," Mr. Lolley contrasted the existing state of
things between employer and employes before 1824, and
advocated federation with kindred societies. He subse-
quently received a presentation watch.

Treasures of the Orient. — The Shah has . just been
doing what we should call " taking stock," preparatory to
another journey in the West. He is reported to be the
happy possesscr of £7,000,000 worth of gems, several
articles being valued at £200,000 each ; but if they were
all as over-estimated as his jewels that we have handled, we
fear we should strike out a few of tbe noughts. Doubtless
he has some very fine — probably the finest turquoises in the
world, but nearly all the diamonds are lasque, and roses cut.

Our Diary and Desk-Book for the year 1892 is a substan-
tial book, well bound in strong boards and interleaved with
blotting. It is brimful of information of special interest
to the trade. Each new or renewing subscriber whose sub-
scription is received before the end of the year is certain to
receive a complimentary copy of this handsome book.
After December 31st, subscribers run the risk of the edition
being out of print, since we distribute it before the end of
the year to ensure its full use from January the First.

121

THE WATCHMAKER, JEWELER AND SILVERSMITH.

[December 1, 1891.

(#ferru£ o£ <#nferex$£.

Amongst the various instruments brought out
Biun pipe. from time to time by the Cambridge Scientific

Instrument Company few are of more practical
importance to jewelers than a blow pipe which we recently
saw of their manufacture. By means of this instrument
we succeeded in melting a small platinum bead. Its con-
struction is very simple, consisting of a piece of india-
rubber tube, one end of which is slipped over a gas-burner,
and at the other is a nose piece carrying forked supports.
Near the attachment of the tube to the nozzle it receives
another tube, carrying a mouthpiece which is used by the
mouth. Both oxydizing and reducing flames are well pro-
nounced, and with it the most infusable substances can be
handled with quite a pleasure. Although anyone can use
it at first sight, we noticed we could regulate, the flame
very easily to whatever we required by simple pressure
upon the tube. This must obviously be the greatest improve-
ment yet introduced in this indispensable instrument.
Under ordinary circumstances the maximum flame is
employed. We have often stood behind good workmen,
and have been struck with what a lot more there is in the
manipulation of the blow pipe than they realise. Often at
least ten times more gas is employed than is necessary, to
say nothing of the injurious effects of the large outbursting
flames upon the eye, otherwise working screened from the
light.

# * • #

, Amongst other things constructed for the
logical Chicago Exhibition is a clock which has been
" Ins*«"««y- made by a man at Muhlenburg, Pennsylvania.
Around the dial is a railway track, on which a miniature
locomotive makes a round every five minutes. It requires
a magnifying glass to see the delicate machinery. The oil
cups at the journals are so small that nothing larger than
a hair can be inserted. There is a headlight and bell, flag-
holders on the pilot, whistle, and everything connected with
a locomotive. It has a link-motion under the engine to
reverse it. The weight of the locomotive is 1^ lb., and it
has been named " The Gem."

* * #

According to The Sidney Morning Herald of
vvatt-iio" Tlllu's<lay, October 8th,' 1891, an interesting

application was made to Mr. Justice Owen in
Equity the day before, on behalf of the Waltham Watch
Company, for an injunction to restrain Bela Singer, agent
for the United States Watch Company, from exhibiting or
offering for sale sample watches of the last named
company, having stamped upon them the words " Waltham,
Mass " (Massachusetts), these words being one of the
trade marks of the Waltham Watch Company, and, as
such, registered in this colony. The defence set up was,
that the United States Watch Company also had its
manufactory at Waltham, and this being the case the
plaintiffs had no monopoly of the term " Waltham,
Mass," which the defendant company merely used to
indicate the locality where its watches were made ; and,
further, that as no attempt had been made to represent
the watches as those of the plaintiff company, it could not
be injured. On the other hand, a reeent case was cited in
which the Appellate Court in England had decided a case -
where a brewer at a place called " Stone" had for many
years acquired a reputation for his " Stone ale," that no
other person had a right, because he had a brewery in the
town, to use the same description for his manufacture, and
so lead the public to believe that it was buying the com-
modity which had a long-established reputation. The
case relating to the right to the exclusive use of the term
" Glenfield Starch " was also cited. His Honor said the
case was too clear for argument, and granted the
injunction.

gwi8S The Daily Orach informs us that the export of
Watch- watches, clocks, and their component parts
mtu^'se^a from Switzerland exceeds £4,000,000 sterling
Tariff?1 Per annum> an^ is increasing year by year.
Germany is the best customer for these goods,
taking more than a quarter of the whole export, and we are
second in the list. Comparatively small quantities are sent
both to the United States and to France, and it is not
expected that the industry will seriously suffer either from
the McKinley or the new French Tariff. The increased
duties contemplated in the latter are, however, bitterly
resented in Switzerland as a violation of the reciprocity
which should govern the treatment of an industry in which
populations on both sides of the frontier are equally
interested. The value of the watches, etc., exported last
year to France was only about £1G,000 in excess of the
value of those imported from that country, and in many
watches part of the machinery is of Swiss and part of
French manufacture. It is therefore considered very
unjust to the Swiss industry that the French duties should
be so much larger than those levied in Switzerland, and the
Federal Council has been approached with the view of
getting more equitable treatment from France.

Clocks and^T nas Deen ascertained that during the past
Watches thirty years a little over 2,000,000 watches and
wj"paii*™ clocks have been received into Japan, allowance
being made for a few re-exported. Comparing
the total with the number of houses in the empire in 1889,
it seems that only 16 per cent, of the dwellings and 5 per
cent, of the inhabitants possess timekeepers of any descrip-
tion. It is evident that the Japanese are very badly off for
telling the time, and cheap watches ought to find a ready
sale among them.

An American claims to have discovered a new

a Wcw anode, by which a fine color can be obtained,

coiorers! and that will outwear that produced from an

anode of pure gold, being harder and tougher,

and can be obtained about 15 per cent, cheaper.

A patent has recently been taken out by a New
Repeater Jersey man, which claims to be able to convert
sions. any ordinary watch into a repeater. The chain
is wound by an opposite motion of the stem,
and is automatically released when the winding is com-
plete. The arrangement is such that the repeating
mechanism can be removed bodily when cleaning is
necessary.

Do you Know Rubies prom Garnets ? — Miss Dixon,
niece of Dr. Dixon, of the Academy of Natural Sciences,
recently conceived a desire to become the possessor of two
fine pigeon's blood rubies to go beside a fine white diamond
upon her delicate hand, and accordingly sent to Paris for
them, for which she paid about 2,000 dols. Wanting to
show them off to a native lapidary she exhibited her trea-
sures, when lo ! the Philadelphian son of the lap declared
they were only garnets ! Litigation was commenced with
the Parisian house, who immediately returned the lady the
2,000 dols., saying they had been taken in themselves. If
a house of this calibre don't know rubies from garnets it
ought to be taught a lesson.

We regret that owing to the large quantity of matter
pressing upon us this number, we are obliged to let several
things stand over till our next.

December 1, 1891.] THE WATCHMAKER, JEWELER AND SILVERSMITH.

125

@ur LlncDrou.gfJf Maferiaf^.

Gold in a New fLACE.

fT is well known that the natives of the Gold Coast have
long discovered the fact that by patient perseverance
gold can be panned from the shallow sands of their
coast, but hitherto we believe nothing has ever been done
on any important scale in washing ordinary seaside sand,
whatever may be the nature of the rocks and cliffs that
are being continually destroyed, or the reefs undergoing
disintegration by the great rivers which empty themselves
at any particular spot of the globe. As yet there is no
a priori reason why attention should not have been directed
to these deposits. We know that all alluvial deposits have
originated by the denudation of gold-bearing rocks, and
that every important river carries into the sea millions of
tons of detritus annually. Hence the wonder is how these
shore sands should have been neglected so long. But
recently a man stepped into a Californian jeweler's and
asked him to test something. It turned out to be gold,
whereupon by inquiring, the wily jeweler ascertained that
the man had obtained it from sand taken from the sea shore.
He accordingly made certain proposals, which ended in the
two repairing to the place, and bringing back large
quantities of the sand and smelting it. Large concessions
were obtained, and a company formed by a few friends,
who believe they have got a veritable bonanza.

fr. Mountain of Silver.

It is reported that rich discoveries of silver-pyrites — in
fact, in one instance a whole mountain of it — have been
made in the northern part of Pretoria. The farms in the
locality are being readily bought up with the object of
mining for silver. This story must be taken for what it
is worth.

^apef^ Ppxiving Belts.

It might be interesting to many of our manufacturing
readers to hear that paper driving belts are reported to be
giving great satisfaction, and that with widths exceeding five
inches, they have been run side by side with leather belts
of the same size, giving far more satisfactory results.

An ^llotropic Form of Silver.

According to The Globe the allotropic silver of Mr.
Carrelly, the American chemist, has the color of gold, and
plates of it might be mistaken for gold ; but it is a very
unstable body. Heating it, or merely striking it with a
hammer, brings its lustre back to that of ordinary silver.
Mr. Carrelly has also obtained a purple variety which gives
a yellow tinge to common silver. The " allotropic silver "
is not really pure, however ; it contains about three per
cent, of iron and citric acid. In fact, it is a kind of alloy.

Beating the JIecord Again.

Theee is even possibility now that the optimistic, though
at the same time highly improbable prophecy concerning
the gold output of the Rand, will not be far short of right,
seeing the output for October has reached 72,793 ozs.
giving a total for the ten months of 575,508 ozs. It
also begins to appear that " Yellow- water-range " would
have been a more appropriate name than "White- water,"
seeing how freely the yellow gold streams down from this
elevated region.

APPLICATIONS FOR PATENTS.

(Expressly compiled .and contributed for this Journal by Messrs. W. P. Thompson
■ and Co., 6, Bank Street, Manchester ; 6, Lord Street, Liverpool, and 323
High Holborn, London. W.C.)

14,259.-

14,360.-
14,385.-
14,463.-

14,581;-

14,672.-

14,690.-
14,734.-
14,823.-

14,872.-

" JAi

The production of this beautiful material is on the
increase ; new localities are being found, and new plants
for pohshing and cutting it laid down.

14,954.
14,967.

14,989.—

15,008,
15,366,

15,973,

15,978.

15,995

16,016

16,051
16,052
16,094

16,174.

16,209
16,222
16,223

16,291
16,324

16,369

16,423
16,453

-" Pendulum," S. Riefler, Sheffield, 24 Aug., 1891.

— " Improvements in brooches and safety pins," O.
Wentzel, London, 25 Aug., 1891.

-" Precious stones," A. Boult, London (A. Kulme
Germany), 25 Aug., 1891.

—"Improvements in or connected with escapements and
other gearing parts of watches, clocks, and clockwork
mechanisms," T. Masters, Liverpool, 27 Aug., 1891.

-" Improved means for fastening brooches and the like,"
G. W. Langley, London, 28 Aug., 1891.

—"Thief-proof swivel bow for watch-cases," W.
Matthews and W. G. Bennett, Coventry, 31 Aug., 1891.

-" Safety scarf-pin holder," A. Halm, London, 31 Aug.,

-" Dress studs," W. "White, Birmingham, 1 Sept., 1891.

-" Martin-Pethybridge gold extraction apparatus," W.
Martin and W. Pethybridge, London, 2 Sept., 1891.

-" A new or improved cover for protecting watches from
dust," W. C. Lowden, Newcastle-on-Tyne, 3 Sept.,

— " Watch protector," A. Pinfold, Cleckheaton, 4 Sept.,

— " Process and apparatus for extracting aluminum," G.
Steinle, London, 4 Sept., 1891.

Aneroid barometers," T. Short and W. Mason
London, 4 Sept., 189 L.

-" Brooches," W. Pearce, Birmingham, 5 Sept , 1891.

-" Improvements in links or studs for fastening the
sleeves of shirts," D. Blaikloy, London, 10 Sept., 1891.

-" Photographic cameras," Daniel James Tapley, 52,
Chancery Lane, London.

-" Improvements in means for mounting and supporting
theodolites, cameras, and other instruments and ap-
pliances requiring exact adjustment," Edward Stan-
hope Padmore, 1, St. James' Square, Manchester.

. — "Fine adjustment of microscope," Charles Thomas
Partridge, 1, New Charles Street, City Boad, London.

, — " Improvements in hand or other cameras," William
Beyer, 5, Kelly Street, Kentish Town, London.

— " Watches," G. Newton, London, 22 Sept., 1891.

, — " Scarf rings," F. Walton, Birmingham, 22 Sept.

— "A new or improved process for producing > photo-
graphic pictures, having colors resembling those of the
objects from which they are obtained," Victor Mathieu,
35, Southampton Buildings, London.

— " Illuminating the dials of watches," B. Haas, jun.,
and G. Trouve, London, 22 Sept., 1891.

— " Brooches," H. Bowen, King's Heath, 24 Sept., 1891.

— "Opera glasses," C. Boulter, London, 24 Sept., 1891.

— " Apparatus for holding opera glasses and similar
optical instruments up to the eyes," Cornelius Alfred
Boulter, 1\, St. John's Lane, Clerkenwell, London.

— " Sleeve links or studs," E. Cernikousky, Newcastle-
on-Tyue, 25 Sept., 1891.

— "Improvements in and pertaining to spectacles,"
William Howell Phillips and Howell Benson Phillips,
37, Chancery Lane, London.

—"Improvements in and pertaining to cameras and
sensitive plates for photographic purposes," Eobert
Fowler, 6, Lord Street, Liverpool.

— " Cravat fastener," 18, Buckingham Street, Strand,
London, 28 Sept., 1891.

— "Improvements in apparatus for indicating the dis-
tances travelled by ships," Charles Wright and James .
Stewart, 46, Lincoln's Inn Fields, London.

126

THE WATCHMAKER, JEWELER AND SILVERSMITH.

[December 1, 1891.

1.6,548. "Improvements in disc winders for watches," G.
New ton and D. ('. A. Thatcher, London, 29 Sept., 1891.

16,559. — "' A brooch or lace pin safety attachment," W. Wattie,

London. '29 Sept., 1S91.

16,629.—" Improvements in means or devices for producing
optical illusions." Gustav von Prillurtz-Palm, Lawrence
Abraham Somers, and Jacob Somers, 226, High Hol-
born, London.

16,682. — " Improvements in cases for the displaying or keeping
of jewelry," S. Harris and B. C Taylor, Birmingham,
1 Oct, 1891.

16,698. — " Improvements in sensitive materials for photographic
purposes," William Hay Caldwell, 28, Southampton
Buildings, London.

16,708. — " Improvements in photographic cameras," Adolf
Hesekiel, 18, Buckingham Street, Strand, London.

16,726. — •'Improvements in the fastening of ladies' brooches,"
G. T. Tugwell, Brighton, 2 Oct., 1891.

16,752. — " An improved electrical and mechanical alarm clock,"
D. J. Mullarkey, Bradford, Yorks., 2 Oct., 1891.

16.756. — '• An improved watch protector," J. A. Andrews, Bea-
minster, Dorsetshire.

16,759. — " Connecting the metallic handles of metallic teapots,
etc.," Elkington and Go., Ltd., and Henry Thomas
Fellows, 7, Staple Inn, London, 2 Oct., 1891.

16,763. — " Improvements in double eve-glasses," J. Browning,
London, 2 Oct., 1891.

16,780. — " Improvements in photographic lenses," Thomas
Rudolph Dallmeyer, 24, Southampton Buildings, Lon-
don.

16,831. — " A new or improved range finder or telemeter," John
Sheldon, 12S, Colmore Row, Birmingham.

16,856. — "Improvements in brooches, buttons, and analogous
articles," T. P. Lomas, and T. W. Lomas, London,
3 Oct., 1891.

16,886. — " Improved safety-guard for watches and the like,"
J. A. Wilson, Dundee, 5 Oct., 1891.

16,858. — " Improvements connected with photographic came-
ras," James Frazer, 166, Fleet Street, London.

16,936. — " A double action instantaneous shutter for detective
hand cameras," Thomas Ernest Smith, Sandringham
House, Osborne Road, Southsea, 15 Oct.

16,961. — " An improvement in solitaires, shirt-studs, collar- studs,
buttons, and other like dress fastenings," J. Cooper,
Birmingham, 6 Oct., 1891.

17,001. — "■ Improved stop-watches," N. Jensen, 4, South Street,
'Finsbury, London, 6 Oct., 1891. [Date applied for
under Patents Act, 1883, Sec. 103, 16th April, 1891,
being date of application in United States.]

17,043. — " Improvements in clocks," J. F. Abraham, Bradford,
7 Oct., 1891.

17,098. — "■ Printing lantern or other transparencies by contact,
called the ' Dore adjustable lantern slide printing
frame,' " James Dore, 27, High Street, Sandown, Isle
of Wight.

17,122. — " Improvements in the methods of suspending mariners'
compasses and other instruments," Alexander Hughes,
Bilhter House, Billiter Street, London.

17,215. — " Improvements in boxes or cases for containing
jewelry and other articles during conveyance by post
or other use, and in means or apparatus employed
the) fin." William Heatley, 55, Chancery Lane, London.

17. •255. — " Improvements in machines for cutting glass," Arthur
William Hirst. St. Michael's Road, West Croydon, in
ih'- ( (Ounty of Surrey.

17,264. — •■ Self-winding electric clock," J. Rich, 106, Victoria
Chambers, Chancery Lane, London, 10 Oct., 1891.

17.407. — •' An improvement in clocks," T. Whitehead and J.

Davidson, Wick, N. B., 13 Oct., 1891.
17 408. — " A new or improved holder or stand for displaying

multiple photographs and the like," William Tylar, 12,

Cherry Street. Birmingham.

17,430:-
17,506.-

17,516.-

17,719.

17,971.-
18,148.-
18,215.-

18,242.-

18,343.-
18,404.-
18,427.-

18,847.-
18,856.-

18,922.-
18,935.-
19,008.-
-19,400.-
19,447.-
19,482.

19,760.
19,790

-" Electric batteries," Daniel Martin Lamb, 24, South-
hampton Buildings, London.

— '• Improvements in turning lathes," James McHardy
and Walter George de Forges Garland, Fairfax House,
Chiswick.

— " Improvements in shutters for photographic cameras,"
John Edward Thornton and Edgar Pickard, 6, Bank
Street, Manchester.

" An improved electric or galvanic battery and its
adaptation to brushes and other articles," Arthur Hervey
Byng, 55, Chancery Lane, London.

— " Improvements in electric clock-winders," J. W. Du
Laney and C. F. Du Laney, London, 20 Oct., 1891.

—"Improvements in fasteners for cuffs," J. E. Words-
worth, of London, dated 22 Oct., 1891.

— " Improvements in alarm clocks," J. D. Newton,
Hendon, Middlesex, 23 Oct. 1891. (Communicated by
V. Meyenburg, Germany.)

— -" Improvements in watch chains and the like, and
in the manufacture of same," W. T. Pain, London.
Complete specification dated 23 Oct., 1891.

— " An improved cuff-holder," A. G. Groves, of Bristol,
dated 24 Oct., 1891.

— "Improvements in alarm clocks," J. D. Newton, of
Hendon, dated 26 Oct., 1891.

— " Improvements in fastenings or protectors for the
security of watches, purses, and such like articles of
value," Henry Foot, of London, dated 27 Oct., 1891.

— " An improved alarum clock," O. Kreuzer, London,
dated 31 Oct., 1891.

— " An adjustable purse-guard for protecting the purse
whilst in the hand," H. E. Bass, of London, dated
2 Nov., 1891.

— " Improvements in collar scarf clips," W. Pearce, of
Birmingham, dated 3 Nov., 1891.

— "An improved pencil-case and sharpener," W. F.
Wright, of London, dated 3 Nov., 1891.

— "Combination collar-stud and tie-band hook," G. B.
Mee and A. G. Meeze, of London, dated 4 Nov., 1891.

— "Improvements in cravat clasps or fasteners," T. Gauss,
of Sheffield, dated 10 Nov., 1891.

— "Improvements in sleeve-links," T. Partington, of
London, dated 10 Nov., 1891.

—"A new mechanical movement more especially ap-
plicable to clocks," H. Martin and P. R. J. Willis,
of London, dated 10 Nov., 1891.

— " Improvements in clips or holders for wrist-cuffs and
the like," W. Tagart, of London, dated 14 Nov., 1891.

— " A metal hook for holding watches, lockets, seals, and
other suitable articles, combined with a spring-clip to
hold a price or description ticket of various sizes,"
B. C. Taylor, of Birmingham, dated 14 Nov., 1891.

The new catalogue of Messrs. Vaughton is ready for
Christmas, and very replete.

Messes. Bobbins and Appleton wish us to point out that
the reference recently made in our pages to reductions in
the price of American watches relate only to eighteen -size
expensive watches, a line not sold in this country.

The trade will be well represented in the new School
Board for London, which includes, amongst others, our
late Lord Mayor and Mr. J. J. Stockall, to whom we
offer our congratulations.

All subscribers for the year 1892, whose subscriptions
are in hand before December 81st next will be entitled to
a complimentary copy of our Diary and Deali-Book for 1892.
Subscribers delaying beyond the end of this year run the
risk of disappointment, as the whole edition will be put in
circulation with promptitude in order to be of service from
the first day of the New Year.

$9«

Entered at Stationers' Hall.]

Edited by W. J. LEWIS ABBOTT, F.G.S.

[Registered for Transmission Abroad.

Vol. XVII.— No. 7.

JANUARY 1, 1892.

Subscription, 5s. 1 Post
per Annum. I Free,
t-ingle Copies, 6(1.

Iftie year Past.

T would be hardly justifiable in the face of
the daily bulletins of the state of trade that
we have received all through the year that
has just past us, to speak of it in extrava-
gantly glowing terms, or to attempt to mark
it out as one of unmitigated prosperity. But while we
cannot do this, there is still something to be said in this
connection — and that is, that there is nothing very bad to
chronicle. Eight months of this trying year passed in a
chronic state of grumbling. But when we are in a better
position to gauge the exact state of Trade as a whole, we
do not think it will fall far below — and certainly in many
quarters it will greatly exceed — former years. It must not
be forgotten that 1891 was severely handicapped with the
effects of the most trying winter in the memory of man,
which lasted quite past Easter, so that the holiday trade
was materially assailed. Still, for all that, the report from
various parts of the country was better than could have
been expected, whilst in London many reported they were
very busy. Had it been followed by a cheerful spring,
we might perhaps have fully pulled up, or even passed;
former averages. But with Whitsun we had weather more
like bleak February ; and from thence till the middle of
December we had scarcely anything but downpours, floods,
and gales, such as have never had a parallel. Despite
all this, however, between the storms, trade seemed to
rally, and quite a number of months were satisfactory.
The visit of the German Emperor did a great deal to
stimulate trade, and although at times some people think
such large sums ought not to be spent in entertaining
Foreign Monarchs, it must be admitted that it is not the
quantity of money hoarded up by individuals that con.
stitutethe business prosperity of a nation, but the circula-
tion of it.

TURNING TO BIRMINGHAM,
its affairs are now so interwoven with those of Lrr.don
that the state of business in the latter is generally reflected
in the former — with perhaps this difference : that there is

always something being done in other parts of the country
which is also felt in Birmingham. Indeed, the good
organisation that is yearly developing in Birmingham, and
the way they are laying themselves out to be the jewelry-
producing centre, must give to them a position of increas-
ing importance. The past year has seen many noble
efforts in this direction ; and the Association, with all things
connected with it, are to be highly congratulated upon
their year's work, as through their efforts the excellence of
Birmingham jewelry was proclaimed by one of the world's
mouthpieces, and to-day thousands of people, many thou-
sands of miles apart, have a good impression of Birmingham
jewelry to whom before it was practically unknown.

IT TS SHEFFIELD,
perhaps, that has the most of which to complain in 1891,
as one cannot deny that an immense amount of trade has
been lost through the imposition of the prohibitive tariff
associated with the name of McKinley. We may, however,
remind our friends that, after all, they are no worse off than
their cousins, whose fortunes this impolitic imposition was
going to make in such a hurry ; but, on the contrary, we
find in many parts that in reviewing the year that is past
they characterise it as exceptionally bad.

IN THE SILVER AND ELECTRO-PLATE TRADES
figures are relatively somewhat altered, there being much
more business done in silver than in former years. How
far this is the result of the abolition of the tax, or the in-set-
ting of the fashion for silver, is a question upon which
there is a diversity of opinion. We hope it is the former,
but still we cannot shut our eyes to the fact that other
countries where fashions run the most nearly parallel with
ours the same increase in solid silver has been experienced.

THE WATCHMAKING INDUSTRY,
in addition to being busier all round, has certainly enjoyed
a far better prospective year than any we can call to mind
in its whole history. The Merchandise Marks Act has
been cleared of the haze and maze it presented to many
and strengthened by further legislative measures. The
Trade have recognised the right course to pursue, and all
is now plain sailing, and the good effects of the Act are

128

THE WATCHMAKER, JEWELER AND SILVERSMITH.

[January 1, 1892.

now pouring in upon the Trade. It has been a searching
ordeal, but the English watch industry has come out
victorious. It has spurred men on to do what they could
have done years ago had they have wished ; and we have
had the stigma that all complicated watches are made in
Switzerland once and for ever removed. And we may even
congratulate ourselves this year upon important improve-
ments in chronograph work. It is this class of goods that
we should like to see sent to the World's Fair to maintain
the British supremacy. Each of the centres of the industry
have been awakening ; new buildings have been added, new
capital invested, and new companies started ; so that in
looking back upon 1891 we have not only much with
which objectively to be pleased, but subjectively we have
much more.

GEM JEWELRY

on the whole has received an impetus from the in-setting of
the fashion for colored stones ; but, although we have had
numerous reports of discoveries, not one of them have
turned out of sufficient importance to influence the market.
The announcement of the failure of the Ceylon Gemming
Company, who sought consolation in suffering a similar
state to other enterprises of the same kind, was a great
disappointment to many. Let us hope that a better fate
awaits the Montana Ruby Deposits. Although this year
has seen the most important diamond discoveries ever
made, they are not sufficiently developed to influence the
market in any way, and we are of the opinion that even
if the most extreme conditions ensued, and that De Beers
did not get hold of the Premier Mine — a condition which
appears next to impossible — even then it could only last for
a very limited time, as we have seen that diamond minimi,
in the true sense of the word, cannot be carried on
except by very large combinations. Under these con-
ditions one is not surprised to find that prices have been
fully maintained throughout the year, and fine stuff possibly
even a little advanced.

THE METALS
have had various experiences. Silver has been a respect-
able steady old dame, not flying hither and thither as it
did in 1889. Indeed, we pointed out in the middle of the
year that there was no likelihood of more than a fractional
alteration for six months — a prediction very nearly
fulfilled.

Platinum, on the other hand, has been brought from its
pinnacle ; nor do we think it at all probable that it will
ever reach such a ridiculously high figure again.

ONE OR TWO LESSONS

of 1891 ought to have been received with profit ; notably
amongst others the necessity of taking receipts for every
business transanction, even with aristocracy ; and another
not to buy anything in an office in the City of London, but
in a shop, which, ridiculous though it may appear, is still
necessary according to law.

THE BLACK HAND
has perhaps not been so unkind as it sometimes is, and we
have not had to chronicle the death of a dozen members of
the trade all told. Nevertheless, the wretched influenza

has played sad havoc amongst us, and has claimed by far
the greatest share of victims, suspending the business
operations of some factories for months.

OUR CHARITIES

will have cause to remember 1891, and while we, as a
body, will have cause to remember with pleasure and
pride the good done to them by the Right Honorable the
Lord Mayor of London, we can also assure him that
charity, like mercy,

" Is twice bless'd —

It blesseth him that gives, and him that takes."

-^&

©Jfte MarjCetA,

SILVER.
Has not varied much during the month, from 44^-d. at
the commencement, after various fluctuations, it declined
to about 44d.

COPPER.
Opened firm at the beginning of the month at £4/7 per
ton, but gave way to £44 15s. ; it has, however, since got
dearer, and now stands at £45 12s. for Gi M. B. and is
likely to go higher.

TIN.

There has not been much movement in tin, the price
varying from £92 per ton to £90 7s. 6d.

SPELTER.
Has been dull and quiet at about £22 7s. 6d. per ton.

LEAD-
Is still very much depressed in price, and all the month
has been going lower, and is now about £11 5s.

QUICKSILVER.

Remains at £8 for Rothschilds.

MOTHER-O'-PEARL.

The December sales of this valuable commodity did not
show great alteration. As much as 10s. advance was
noted upon Manilla. West Australian chicken, £8 10s. to
£8 17s. 6d. ; medium, £8 7s. 6d. to £8 12s. 6d. ; grubby,
80s. to 105s. ; some dead stuff only realised 30s. Macassar,
£10 10s. to £11 12s. 6d. ; chicken, £8 12s. 6d. ; medium,
£8 12s. 6d. to £9. Many of the Australian shells "hung,"
and rates were up to 10s. less than last sales.

— ESSSfc ■

©reboot ©Y^afeftrnatC'eritS)' eJV&<§>ociafion.

The first dinner of the above association was re-
cently held at the Crown Hotel, over a hundred being pre-
sent. The chair was occupied by Mr. J.J. Brown, whilst
Mr. Edwin Rimmer acted as vice. In proposing
" Success to the Prescot Watchmakers' Association,"
the latter asserted the necessity of unity, detailing
the various benefits to be obtained by such action. The
reports of the society are now much more favorable than
when we last referred to them ; their total strength now
being 89 members, and, contrasting the present funds with
those at the commencement of the year, the secretary was
also able to report an increase, as they now show a balance
of about £200. After business matters were disposed
of, several gentlemen joined to produce a very pleasant
musical evening. On the following Monday evening no
fewer than fourteen new members were enrolled.

Januaby 1, 1892.]

THE WATCHMAKER, JEWELER AND SILVERSMITH.

129

THE PLEOCHROISM OF GEMS.

By the Editor.

F all the distinguishing and charming
characteristics of gems, there is one of
superlative importance which immediately
separates its possessor from other gems, viz.,
pleochroism. The fiery splendor and bursting
forth of prismatic hues in the diamond, its
high refractive index and concomitant pheno-
mena may all be approached or even excelled in natural
and artificial productions ; but this property of pleochroism
is the invaluable possession of a select few stones, and by
which it is shared in various degrees. As we gaze admiringly
into an ideal ruby, we are struck with the inexpressible some-
thing which renders its hues so soft, yet so brilliant, so
powerful, yet so quiet ; and for once in our lives, perhaps, we
realise that after all there is some justification for the
extravagant price the jewel can command. If we place
beside it a spinel of approximately the same hue, and
which, it may be, has been bought and sold several times
by large firms as a fine ruby, what a cold, hard, monotonous
blaze it appears in the comparison ! Obviously there is
some quality in the ruby not possessed by the spinel ; and
this quality is the inimitable pleochroism.

We may even go a step further, and place beside our
ruby another cut from a piece of the very same stone,
which before cutting appeared equal to it in every
respect, and from which it would not have been cut but
to get rid of a flaw ; and contrary to what we might have
expected, this approaches the ideal hardly any more closely
than the spinel ! The whole of the table " draws " a
monotonous violet. Round the facettings towards the
girdle it certainly beams forth a little of the royal pigeon's
blood hue, but on the whole it is very little better than
the spinel ; in fact, few could distinguish which is the ruby
of the two — so completely has the ruby been murdered in
cutting ! Indeed, the more one compares the spinel and
the inferior ruby, apart from the ideal ruby, the more
does it appear difficult to distinguish between them.

What this difference is we shall now proceed to show by
the help of a little instrument called the Dichroscope ; but
as putting a man behind a telescope or microscope does not
make him either an astronomer or a petrologist, so neither
does placing him behind a dichroscope make him a
gemmologist. Still, the most superficial knowledge of the
instrument and its use will enable him to readily distinguish
between the two foregoing gems.

The Dichroscope.
This valuable little instrument was originally invented
by Haidinger, but in the form in which it left Ins hands,
or even with the improvements upon it made by English
opticians, it is almost useless. Nor can it be said that even
the best account of it that has been written is anything
more than very incorrect and misleading. It is owing to
this that many, after trying it, have given it up with dis-
gust. Almost the first time I used the instrument I noticed
the defects of its construction, and had them remedied ; but
from my knowledge of optics I saw that while it was a
very useful instrument — far more useful than was generally
considered — physical impossibilities were claimed for it.
Since then I have made various modifications and additions
to it, so that in its most elaborate form it is an invaluable
instrument for gemmological research. The most conve-
nient and useful form of the instrument is shown in Fig. 1 .
A is a brass tube fitting into another tube, P>, in which it
moves freely in any direction. Inside it carries a rhom-
bohedron of Iceland spar, with the ends cut perpendicularly
to the prism. This is covered at the further extremity with
a protective glass, and at the other with a lens. The end

of the tube A has a perforated cap, which serves as an eye-
piece. The tube B is closed by a cap at the further end,
perforated by a small square aperture about *12 inch square.
C'is another tube, which fits freely over B, so that it can be
moved up and down, or round it, and from one side of
this springs an arm which carries a stage. The latter is
graduated into 360 degrees. Through the centre of the
stage passes an arm, E, moveable longitudinally or circu-
larly, terminated at the outer end by a milled head, F,
and at the inner end by a small metallic cup, G, in which
is placed a small piece of beeswax, rendered more tena-
cious by the admixture of a little Venice turpentine. Be-
tween the cup and the index dial the arm carries a watch
hour-hand, which grips it sufficiently tight to follow it
round when so turned. This hour-hand is nevertheless
moveable at will, either when various sized stones are being
tested, or when it is necessary to bring the hand to zero, in
case the stone is in any given position, for which it is
desirable to make measurements. There is another grad-
uated circle round B, and a mark in the eye-piece A, by
which the angular movement of the prism can be read if
necessary. The drawing is full size, and in this form the
instrument can be put into a case and carried in the
pocket ; but for ordinary use it is more convenient to fix it
by the tube B into a stand ; both hands are then free.

We will now proceed with the use of the instrument,
turning the stage towards the light, either natural or arti-
cial, the former being of course far the best, next the
electric light from a ground glass lamp, or lastly from any
other kind of lamp with an "opal " globe. Naked lights
answer, but should never be employed if their use can be
avoided. First we notice that the index-mark upon the
eye-piece A is opposite zero on the scale on B. Upon
placing the eye to the eye-piece, instead of seeing an image
of the square aperture at the further end, we see two such
images, standing horizontally, slightly overlapping each
other, as shown in Fig. 2j^the cause of the two images
we will not stop now to inquire, but reserve our ex-
planation for a future occasion.

{To be continued.)

Mr. Shari.anu, of Thavies Inn, W.C., is supplying Mr.
Edward Whymper's new book on the aneroid barometer.
Optical readers who have never paid this establishment a
visit have probably much to regret.

|.",0

THE WATCHMAKER, JEWELER AND SILVERSMITH.

[January 1, 1892.

(#fem& of <$ nfereAt.

The annual meeting and distribution of prizes

' »«h"oiy m connection with the Coventry School of Art

otin. took place on Decsmber 9th, under the

presidency of the Mayor. Amongst those
present were numerous familiar names in the Trade. We
have once more the pleasure of congratulating Coventry on
the taking of a Silver Medal. We venture to think that
even the Coventry people themselves are not aware of how
much the fine engraving and designing that is done in the
Trade owes its origin to Coventry. To our knowledge
several of the finest draughtsmen in our Trade now were
educated there while working at the textile industry ; and
we are highly gratified to hear by the report that they have
received the much needed help from the Corporation, which
will not only enable them to carry out their work more
extensively, but enable them also to offer special advantages
to students.

* # #

One of Edison's latest inventions will be
Awatr"ii!'s exhibited at the next Electric Exhibition at

St. Petersburg, and will consist of a speaking
watch. The dial is made to represent a human face, and
the interior contains a phonograph. The mouth opens
and tells the hours, the half hours, and the quarters in a
strikingly human voice. It can also be set at a particular
hour in the morning to. remark several times running, " It
is time to "get up ■!."' " It is time to get up ! "

H.. A system of hydraulically-controlled clocks has
'to the recently been installed in the Berlin University
iront. j^ £ne xjrania-Uhren and Satilen Commandit-
gesellschaft (Breslauer and Dr. Von Orth). The installa-
tion consists of an ordinary clock, seven secondary clocks,
and four ringing arrangements, all connected by a system
of water conduits to a central apparatus erected in the
vestibule of the building. At the end of each complete
hour the principal clock sends an electrical current t-hrough
the electromagnet of the central apparatus, thereby dis-
engaging an arrangement of wheels and opening a water-
cock. The water then flows through the -water-jet pumps,
and absorbs the air in a network of tubes to which all the
secondary clocks and ringing arrangements are connected.
Each of the secondary clocks is provided with a brass
casing, which is closed by means of a leather membrane.
As soon as the air in the casing becomes rarefied, the
membrane lifts a bar, by means of which the hour finger is
made to act at the exact moment of completing the hour,
and the clock is wound up to the extent it has run down
during the hour just completed. The ringing arrange-
ments are also fitted with a similar casing and membranO,
which, during the rarefaction of the air, lifts the hammer
and causes the bell to ring three times. When the neces-
sary amount of rarefaction of the air has been attainted, t
and the work of the apparatus is completed, the-;wa.terr
cock in the central apparatus is automatically, closed;.
Several installations of clocks on this system have already
been made, notably at the Berlin Exchange and the
Potsdam railway station.

•Hr 4£? 4t*

-jv* "B* TP

The fourth ordinary general meeting of the
mcanofao Humber Company, recently held at Cannon
mring. gtreet Hotel, points to a very satisfactory state
of affairs in the cycle world. Last year their profits were
£13,700 ; while this year they were £25,317, which, after
Avriting off all expenses, left a net profit of £17,305. The
chairman assured the shareholders there was no likelihood
of Mr. Humber leaving the company, and that the rumor
of his leaving and forming another company, and building
a large factory, was perfectly unfounded. He further

pointed out that the McKinley tariff had not caused a
decrease in the American trade ; as a matter of fact,, it had
greatly improved during the year. On the other hand,
we hear that Mr. Warman, of Messrs. Warman and Hazel-
wood, Coventry, has been to Philadelphia with a view of
erecting a factory over there. They claim to turn out
25,000 machines annually, employing between 600 and
900 hands.

Electric

The forthcoming Electric Exhibition at the
Exhibition. Crystal Palace will be probably the grandest

display that has ever been made. Every
branch of electricity, and its application, will not only be
represented, but will be represented thoroughly. The
committee consists of the lions of the science, and treats of
numerous examples of the practical goodness of the goddess
Electron that are in sto\'3 for us all.

Thf BJc-

Attention has from time to time been directed
maKiictTsingto the danger of watches becoming magnetised
of *Vatchcs,through being accidentally or inconsiderately
brought into contact with dynamic machines. During the
last Edinburgh Exhibition a number of valuable watches
were affected in this way and rendered useless as time-
keepers, and with the more general adoption of electricity
for various purposes the risk alluded to is becoming more
common. Mr. J. S. Matheson, Leith, who has given some
consideration to the matter, has patented a process which
he claims is effective for the purpose in view, and that
watches treated in accordance with it have been thoroughly
demagnetised and made to keep time as well as before
beiiiff affected.

The Number of Gems. — It has frequently been pointed
out that the ordinary jewelers' gem-vocabulary consists of
diamond, ruby, emerald, sapphire, ga.rnet, opal, pearl. In
our Diary for 1892 we give a list of upwards of
200 whose claims can be fully established, the
majority of which have their own hue suite. With such
an inexhaustible color-box as this, we may justly ask,
' Ought our designs to suffer for want of material ?

When Seen, to be Made a Note of. — The authorities
at Scotland Yard have, it is said, been warned from New
York that a party of five exceedingly clever American
swindlers are now on their way to England. Two of the
five are women, and some of the West-end jewelers have
' already been apprised that ingenious attempts may be made
to relieve them of their property.

Unity is Strength. — In addition to the various local
societies in almost every important centre in the country,
pawnbrokers have for a long time realized the necessity
of a National Pawnbrokers' Association, and operations are
on foot for the formation of such an association. We wish
them every success.

During the last month there have been quite a number of
important sales of old silver. The most noteworthy of
'which was probably that of the late Lord Truro, which, by
the way, was not sent to Christies, but to Messrs. Deben-
ham, Storr, and Sons. The total of the sale was some-
where between £5,000 and £6,000. It included, however,
other articles of virtu, the aggregate weight of silver being
about 3,000 ounces. Prices averaged fairly high, fre-
quently 35s. and 42s. per ounce. There have also been
several similar sales in the North, in Scotland and Ireland,
and although as much as 44s. an ounce was realised on
one occasion for four old octagonal salt-cellars, prices in
the North were usually single-figured, sometimes as low as
5s. Silver war medals, hoAvever, realised good prices,
amongst which were the following : Ghuznee, Cabul, 1842,
£1H 18s. ; Kilat i Ghilzie, 1842, £19 ; Ghuznee, 1839,
£8 15s. ; Delhi, 1K49, £8 10s.

January 1, 1892.]

THE WATCHMAKER, JEWELER AND SILVERSMITH.

131

(By our own Correspondent.)*

fN reviewing the trade of the month just past, the most
noticeable feature we find has been its uncertainty —
this day brisk and full of life, the next dull almost
to stagnancy. Nor has this unsatisfactory state been of
partial operation only. From numerous inquiries through-
out all sections of our Birmingham trade, both manu-
facturers and factors, the same answer is obtained, showing
that the causes of this, whatever they are, are of general
extent. In spite of this, however, the total business of
the month has been well up to the average. As I pro-
phesied last month, there has been a good Christmas trade ;
the demand for approbation parcels, especially during the
ten or twelve days preceding Christmas, while not being
anything abnormal for the time of year, has been sufficient
to test to the fullest extent the capacities of the stocks
held by the trade, and the working powers of the various
employees who manage this section of our businesses. It is
too soon to speak as to the actual results of this appro, busi-
ness, as the majority of the goods are held over to the new
year ; but the percentage of keeps from such lots as have
come back show a very good return. The call for appro,
this year seems to be the result of a genuine demand, and
to be somewhat less than usual of a speculative nature.

§N the jobbing departments, too, there has been a con-
tinuous rush during the month. Both the makers
proper and those out-workers who do a jobbing trade
only have been kept hard at work. Why will people leave
their repairs to the very last moment, when they stand a
chance of having the work badly done, or of its being too
late for their purpose ? A little forethought on the part of
the public would save themselves the risk of disappoint-
ment, and at the same time save the trade a lot of worry.

\| /HE usual late hours of Christmas time have been
®]13 observed this year ; in more than one instance the
" wee sma' hours " being well in sight before the
last parcel was despatched.

fN the face of all this it seems hard to account for the
vast amount of grumbling I have heard. This, like
the other matters noted, seems to have been " quite
up to the average." I think, however, that the key to this
is found in my first paragraph, where I speak of the
" uncertainty" of the trade of the month. Besides, there
seems to be a sort of contagion in grumbling, and where
the many are speaking of bad times the individuals are
afraid of owning to being busy even when doing well.
This, I believe, is the present case. All have been doing
well, but all are disinclined to say so ; hence the grumbles
pass current. But to us, reading between the lines, they
do not really indicate the state of trade.

X, AM loth to leave the Old Year without a word or
i two of parting. Taken as a whole it has been a satis-
factory and successful year. There have not been any
of those times of excessive pressure, nor, on the other hand,
have there been any undue depressions. Month after month
has passed quietly on, each one bearing its fair share of
business for the time of the year. And in totalling up the
final results the same thing is observed. It has been a
good all-round year, not brilliant, but firm in tone, and
with a goodly turnover. Prices, too, although they have
not stiffened, yet have not declined, and the profits of the
year's trading are likely to show a satisfactory balance.

* We must not be understood as endorsing all, or necessarily any, of the views of
our correspondent.

We leave the year 1891 with regret, trusting that its imme-
diate successor may prove no worse. It may perhaps be
well to specify (although hardly necessary) that there may
be individual exceptions to the above remarks. I know,
however, from actual experience that they correctly represent
the bulk of the trade here.

"p)OW as to the prospects of the coming year. I am
JV unable to form a definite opinion. After several
conversations with people here, who are most likely
to discern the shadows cast by coming events, I find the
opinions held are so diverse that there is but little material
on which to form one's judgment. The unsettled aspect
of the political horizon, with the certainty of a General
Election during the year, renders it more than usually
difficult to see far ahead. So far as one can tell, however,
the year does not open quite so favorably as 1891. There
is a less reliant feeling about, and the sense of insecurity
seems over all things. Nevertheless, we are safe for
January. There will be the usual making up of stocks on
the part of the factors — indeed, some of them have already
begun buying — and the usual competition among manu-
facturers to secure the opportunities offered for selling
parcels of goods.

VTTHE proposed issue of £1 notes, to ease the gold
®J® currency, does not interest our trades so much as'
did the former proposal to issue the said notes on a
silver basis. Had this been carried out it would have
greatly influenced the price of silver, a matter which would
have seriously affected our local silversmiths ; but with the
permanent value of gold, we are not more interested in the
matter than any other commercial body in the country.

fAM extremely pleased to notice that the Daily Mail has
taken our conciliatory remarks of a month ago to
heart, and has extended the hand of kindly fellowship
to us. For the first time in its existence (we believe we
are correct here) it prints an article complimentary to the
trades we represent. To be sure the matter is one on
which it could not very easily find fault, viz., the Vittoria
Street Art and Technical Schools. These it designates as
a " successful experiment," and then proceeds to favorably
review the work of the schools during the two years they
have been open. " No one can fairly question the marked
success to this unique and fortuitous combination of art and

technical instruction The laudable desire

to go right to Nature is shown by the objects from which

the students come eventually to draw He

(the student) is called upon to exercise his inventive powers
in the production of more or less original designs." Again,
speaking of the technical school proper, it says : ' ' The
really excellent work turned out in this department
deserves more than a passing word of praise." We are
glad, at last, to have earned the Daily Mail's approval.
The article in question somewhat deplores the fact that the
institution is kept so exclusively to the jewelry trades, and
it advocates the admission of "ordinary" students other
than the nominees of the jewelers, concluding its remarks
with : " It is in the interest, not only of the trade but of
the city, that this should be the case."

XT7HERE is just one remark to which I cannot quite
^J® agree, viz., " The tendency of the teaching staff at
this stage, and, in fact, in the whole school, is to
eschew specialisation." It seems to me, however, that
this should not be the case, but rather that the " teaching
staff " should educate (i.e., e duco — to draw out) any indica-
tions of " specialisation " that they may notice, and foster
it to the fullest extent. It is the man with a special hobby,
the man with a special avocation, the man with a special
genius, either of brain or finger, that makes a mark in
the world and rises therein ; while the average masses toil

132

THE WATCHMAKER, JEWELER AND SILVERSMITH.

[January 1, 18', 2.

on in wearisome labor. I look forward to the production
of these "special men" as being amongst the best and
proudest work of the Jewelers' School.

fT is somewhat remarkable that the committee of the
Birmingham Jewelers' and Silversmiths' Association
do not speak in quite such satisfactory terms of the
school. In its circular, drawing attention to the com-
mencement of the Winter Term of 1892, it speaks as
follows : " It is with deep regret I have to record that both
from the point of view of numbers, and of the average
attendance of students, the term nowr closing has been un-
satisfactory It is imperative that the schools

he filled, if not with jewelers' students, then with others
from outside. The alternative, I think, would be a positive
misfortune, as the school would thereby lose its distinctive
character and teaching." The whole circular forms an
urgent appeal to the flagging interest of the employers of
youthful labor in our district.

fAM sorry that there should be any cause for regret to
the promoters of this scheme, as the energy and
ability displayed in its inauguration and carrying out
seemed to foretell success. I would add my voice to the
appeal of the Committee, strongly urging the advisability
of all the learners in the trade joining the school, and
attending regularly the course of lessons, amongst the
best and proudest work of the Jewelers' School.

T,T seems at first sight rather a remarkable fact that
X Birmingham is very poor ground for the retail
jewelers. One would think that with their proximity
to the makers they could buy cheaply, and thus tempt the
public by offering goods at low prices. This, however,
does not seem to be the case, and the retail trade of
Birmingham compares unfavorably with that of many
others of our large towns. On second thoughts, however,
the reason of this is apparent. It simply means that
everyone here is more or less intimately connected with
someone engaged in the production of jewelry, who are
glad to supply their friends with all they require at little
more than cost price. Consequently, the shops are
neglected, while the wholesale houses receive innumerable
" private orders." This is especially the case just at
Christmas time.

QTINCE the commencement of the series of articles on
i3 " Window Dressing," I have had a look round at
the Birmingham retail displays. I have no desire to
say anything uncomplimentary of our own kith and kin,
but I do hope that when the articles have run their course
I shall be able, after the visit of inspection I then
propose to make, to give a report which shall be really
complimentary to the improved taste of our shopkeepers.
Look to it, therefore, lest my wrath be upon you, oh !
ye of the window and the counter.

lyTESSRS. SWINDEN AND SON, of Temple Street,
x^i. have conferred a boon, not only on the trade but on
the whole city, by their offer to give the exact
time, per telephone, whenever requested. Every sub-
scriber to the Telephone Exchange is thus placed in
immediate connection with Greenwich.

f MIGHT chronicle, just at the last moment, that our
Birmingham friends have spent a good old-fashioned
Christmas, and are now ready for the New Year with
renewed energy.

The invaluable invention of Mr. Dallmyer of a tele-
photographic lens, to which we referred at the time of the
making of the specification, is now before the public, and
will open up a new era in photographic work.

Ufte ^,\?yer&>r^l'\tf\£>, arte] ^eaoeferi*)'
(©ricftet dPurj.

'HE smoking concert of the above club, in aid of the
funds of the Silver Trade Pension Society, was held
at the Freemason's Tavern on the 7th ult., as an-
nounced in our last issue. The movement was supported
by the principal West-end Jewelers and Silversmiths, both
wholesale and retail employers and employees. Every
effort was made to maintain the character of the first
concert, and it must be acknowledged that is was a perfect
success. All pieces were well rendered, and some of them
exceptionally so, and we have no doubt that a good sum
was netted for the Pension Society. If there is any branch
of the Trade which felt it did not belong to tho cricket
club, and therefore was absent, that branch had better
band together and see what it can do in a similar way.
We can only say we hope their efforts will be crowned with
the same success that has attended those'of the above club,
which deserves the hearty thanks not only of the Silver
Trade Pension Society, but of the whole Trade at large, to
which it is both a pattern and example.

d>if>/ ansl (§juifc|*§> oj? teonilon <#nd>fifute
G^aminafionj*), dS^H.

WE have before us the report of the thirteenth examina-
tion in technology of the above institute, held in
April and May, 1891. As a whole, the number of
candidates presenting themselves increased in a far greater
ratio than heretofore. Out of the thirty-six subjects in
which examinations are held, many of which are largely
subdivided, the following concern our trades : — Electro-
metallurgy, which sent up nineteen candidates, of whom
only eleven passed ; metal plate work, thirty candidates,
of whom only thirteen passed ; silversmiths' work, although
included in the curriculum, had no candidate ; watch and
clockmaking sent up sixty-eight candidates, of whom forty
passed ; thus showing a far greater percentage of passes in
the latter subject than in either of the others connected
with our trades. We shall shortly have the pleasure of
reporting other subjects, now included in the curriculum,
but in which, as yet, examinations have not been held.
We must say we are extremely sorry to see so few repre-
sentatives of our trades attending these classes and
examinations. Unfortunately, it is not because they have
any superior knowledge of their trade, as we know by
painful experience, and it must be most discouraging to
the authorities to see the classes so poorly attended, while
other trades avail themselves of their benefits by the
thousands. Our advice to every young man, in any way
connected with the trade, even in the capacity of salesman,
is, neglect everything you consider a pleasure and a
pastime, and get that information by attending these
classes, which alone can qualify you for the position you
hold.

Art critics, in reporting on technical education in France
some years ago, remarked, " These Art classes are sup-
ported by the whole of the Jewelry Trade, and it is remark-
able to see how their subjective influence is reflected in the
members of that craft." Surely the time has now arrived
when we may say that history repeats itself ; for, turning
to Birmingham, we see the effects of the cultivation of Art
all round, in which well-known members of the Trade
stand prominen. Thus, in the programme of the lectures at
the New Church Guild at Hands worth, we find the follow-
ing down for lectures : — Mr. J. W. Tonks, " Japanese Art
and Artists;" Mr. F. W. Goldsmith, of Messrs. G. H.
Johnston and Co., on "Art Metal Work; " Mr. Osborne,
Messrs. Walton and Co., " Rambles with a Carmra ; " Mr.
F. Saxelby, " Glimpses of Elizabethan London." We
hope to give a further account of some others.

January 1, 1892.]

THE WATCHMAKER, JEWELER AND SILVERSMITH,

133

Sheffield jfotes.

(By oue own Correspondent.)*

TT7HE forty-eighth annual report of the Council of the
^X9 School of Art, just presented, is a very satisfactory
document. The extraordinarily long list of awards
and successes achieved by the students during the past
year has already been noticed in this column. In this
connection the report just issued makes special mention of
the case of Miss Mitchell, daughter of a former head-master,
whose successes have been most exceptional. The Council
report that the Town Council have increased their grant
for the current year from £400 to £600. In the full
expectation that this grant will be continued, the Council
have established a scheme of local scholarships of £52
each for advanced art students between the ages of eighteen
and thirty, renewable annually under certain conditions.
Holders of these scholarships must have been students at '
the School of Art, and be engaged and intend to continue
to work in some one of the Sheffield trades, in which a
knowledge of decorative art is necessary. This is another
proof of the close connection which exists between the
school and the trades of the town, and a clear indication
that the Council wisely intend to continue on the old lines
in this respect.

\| /HE representations noticed last month as having been
^x9 made by the Chamber of Commerce to the Inland
Revenue Authorities have unexpectedly borne fruit.
Stamping facilities in Sheffield are to be still further in-
creased. To the concessions mentioned last month will
now be added the stamping of documents relating to the
registration of trade-marks, providing that these docu-
ments are not upon parchment. For this latter privilege
we have still to wait. As time is of little value in
Sheffield we shall therefore continue for some time longer
to hand our parchments over the counter of the office in
Leopold Street, whence they are duly despatched to
Manchester, where the awful process of stamping is
accomplished. Providing no Sunday or Bank Holiday
intervenes we may then have our documents by calling for
them on the day but one following.

VrTHE rapid increase of telephonic communication in
^ji9 Sheffield has necessitated the erection of new pre-
mises to facilitate its working. Part of the new buildings
in course of erection by the Sheffield Telephone Exchange
and Electric Light Company, Limited, in Sheaf Street, has
just been formally opened. The completed portion in-
cludes a new switch-room, where accommodation will be
provided for 4,000 subscribers. Should this number ever be
reached, the company is prepared to erect another switch-
board to accommodate an additional 2,000.

(7TN arrangement has been come to between the Great
fax. Northern and the Manchester, Sheffield, and Lincoln-
shire Railway Companies with regard to the latter
company's Bill for powers to extend their system to London.
This will facilitate the passing of the measure considerably,
as the Great Northern were last session the principal
opponents to the scheme then before Parliament. The
opposition of the inhabitants of North London was no
doubt the last straw which broke the back of the Bill, but
this opposition, which it is fully anticipated will be repeated
next session, is not expected of itself to wreck the Bill.
Rumors are current of two other powerful railway com-
panies having their eyes upon Sheffield, so that upon the
whole our hankerings after increased railway facilities are
likely to be gratified.

We must not be understood as endorsing all, or necessarily any, of the views of
our correspondent, who writes on his own responsibility.

^rTHE state of affairs in "Bull Week," so far as the
ej® silver trade is concerned, has not materially differed
from the report of the state of trade given in these
Notes some two months ago. Things have been decidedly
mixed this Christmas. It cannot be said that trade "is
brisk, although some firms are very busy. On the other
hand, business can scarcely be called bad, although many
firms could execute more orders than they have on the
books. Compared with Christmas 1890 things are de-
cidedly quieter. The tendency at present is decidedly
downwards, and this is the real source of anxiety. No one
feels any pinch at present. In point of fact everyone
seems to be entering into the spirit of the festive season,
wisely refraining from looking too far ahead. A great
deal may happen before this time next year to counteract
the mischief done by the M'Kinley tariff.

f^jUTSIDE the silver trade a new industry has already
liJ been planted in our midst. The manufacture of
sword-bayonets, for some unexplained reason, has not
hitherto been carried on in Sheffield. The scandals
arising from the experience of defective bayonets in recent
warfare, has, however, compelled the War Office to turn to
the place to which an average amount of common sense,
on the part of the permanent officials, would have induced
them to have recourse long since. The old firm of
Saunderson Bros, has laid down extensive plant for the
manufacture of sword-bayonets, so that with our armour
plates and Armstrong guns we are in a fair way of being
assured a certain amount of prosperity — whether peace or
war betide.

Mr. J. D. Fisher, of High Street, Lincoln, supplied
some of the diamond work to the ladies of Lincoln, for the
presentation to the Lady Mayoress.

As it is more than probable that some " christening " is
going on with the old and well-known name of John
Forrest, it may be worth while to point out that no one
has now a right to use this name and title, which with the
goodwill, etc., was bought by another well-known manu-
facturer, Mr. Richard Thorneloe, who, in addition to the
name, stamps every watch and chronometer with his
registered trade-mark, the thistle.

At the Royal Microscopical Society, Mr. C, L. Curtis?
described and exhibited a small heliostat made on
the model of Mr. Comber. It met with general appro-
bation, being simple and useful in any latitude between
15° and 70°. The same gentleman also exhibited a new
form of microscope on the Nelson model, after which Mr.
Nelson described his apparatus for the production of mono-
chromatic light for the use of the microscope.

A subscription has been set on foot by the Microscopical
and kindred societies for the widow of the late Mr. John
Mayall in recognition of his services to microscopical
science.

At a recent meeting of the Physical Society Dr. Raps
exhibited the perfection to which he had brought his
mercurial air pump, by quickly exhausting a Geissler tube
to such a degree that a phosphorescent light made its
appearance.

Messrs. Ahronsbero Bros., of 37, Albion Street,
Birmingham, have supplied a very handsome silver-gilt
presentation key for the opening of a hospital at
Mexborough. It was designed after the old Roman style,
with the initials of the title of the institution carved in the
head. Messrs. A. Bros, cater somewhat largely for this
trade ; only very recently they supplied the medal for the
incorporation of the Borough of Haslingdon.

Another child of the veteran Lord Grimthorpe has just
been set up at the parish church at Tilney All Saints,
Norfolk. It has only one dial, and chimes the Westminster
quarters. It was manufactured by Messrs. J. Smith and
Son, Midland Clock Works, Derby.

184

THE WATCHMAKER, JEWELER AND SILVERSMITH.

[. January 1, 18D2.

Windows and Window Dressing.

By the Editor.

{Continued from page 111.)

HERE is one very important point in con-
nection with window dressing that is very
frequently neglected, viz., having the bottom
of the window at the correct height for the
style in which it is to be dressed. Below a
certain hue things, even if seen, lose
immensely both in distinctness and import-
ance ; while articles which are much above the line of
vision are scarcely seen at all. At night much will, of
course, depend on the manner of the illumination. The
window now to be described we will suppose to be lit by
electric light, or by Argand burners over its top. On a
future occasion we shall have something more to say upon
the question of lighting. Under any circumstances lights
should be kept from view as much as possible. It is for
this reason that draped windows and electric lights produce
such charming results, as the lights can be brought down
quite near to the goods without being seen, being snugly
hidden bv the curtains.

a finished appearance. At the top of the cornice is a row
of flat box-pleats about two and a half to three incli3S
wide. The edges need not be satin-lined, as the hem is
sufficient to show velvet at the small openings made by each
pleat.

It is always necessary to have some kind of edging, and
for this purpose a good silk fringe, well knotted and of the
same color as the satin, is decidedly tin best. Good
draperies are often spoiled by a plain hem, which has so
much of the " Mother's make " about it. If the fringe is
not resorted to, a cord or a gimp edging should certainly
be employed. With a straight-backed drapery like this an
additional gimp trimming should be used, which should be
keyed at the corners. For this purpose a plain simple
gimp is the best ; flossy, dust-holding, fading patterns
should be rigidly avoided. The gimp should not exceed a
half an inch in width, otherwise it looks heavy. It is
astonishing what a relief the small square keying at each
angle gives, it also imparts a richness and finish to the
whole thing.

In determining the length of the curtains much will, of
course, depend upon the nature of the window-fittings ; they
could be as short as here shown, or twice the length. It is
not often necessary for them to be as short as shown above.
They should meet some "break" in the fittings, but this
must be left to be decided as the case may demand.

The design at the head of this
article is for a front drapery.
It is a very effective production
for the quantity of velvet em-
ployed, consisting essentially
of one width of velvet the
length of the width of the
window: the drop piece can be added
on, either diagonally from the corner
to the first reentrant angle, and a piece
of gimp cord passed over it as though it
were a tie-up ; or it can be put on " on
the straight." There are three large
box-pleats across the front, which should
be cut a little hollow so as to show the back of the velvet,
and these should here be lined with satin of a rather lighter
tint. One width of velvet should then be cut diagonally at
one-third its length, so as to get the two curtains out of one
and one-third of the length of one. These should then be
"fulled" or "bunched" at the top, then allowed to fall
loosely, showing the front and back of the velvet alternately,
and this should here be lined with the same colored satin as
above. Cords and tassels may next be added, which give a re-
markable richness and finish to a window drapery. They
should harmonise with the velvet, or they may make a pleas-
ing but slight contrast. Two tassels should drop gracefully
from behind each curtain ; the former should not be less than
four or five inches long, nor less than one and a half to two
inches in diameter. The tassels which drop from the box-
pleats above may be smaller, although they should not be
pimpin. They can be dispensed with altogether if desired.
The cord should be a half or five-eighths of an inch thick,
and should be either all silk covered, or, at least, partially
so ; a careless bow at each of the box-pleats gives them

,J«ISH

When the drapery is finished
thus, it should be mounted on
a piece of board the length of
the width of the window, and
about three inches wide, and a
half to three-quarters of an
inch thick. A right-angled
hook should fix it at each end upon a
screw from the upright bar, moving
very readily, so as to facilitate the
putting up and the taking down of
the drapery. Do not force the
velvet unduly against the glass or it
will soon crush, but press it very
gently, so that it stands as near to the window as
possible without damaging it. If electric lights be
employed they should be placed behind the curtains
and along the cornice, the wood-work of which makes
a good support. The lights should be covered at
their backs with silvered reflectors ; firstly, to throw
the light upon the goods and not in the dark un-
used recesses of the curtains, and secondly, because if
the curtain lies upon the naked lamp, the latter will soon
introduce itself to outside view by burning a hole through
your curtain.

Jewelry lying much below three feet from the surface
is usually beneath ones notice. Still there are many
uses to which a floor of two feet from the ground
can be put, and there are many styles of window-
-dressing in which it can be advantageously and
effectively employed. On a future occasion we shall
touch more fully upon this subject, but for the present
we will imagine our window to be about five feet by
four by three, and with a bottom a little over two feet

Jaxuaev 1, ISO?.]

THE WATCHMAKER, JEWELER AND SILVERSMITH.

185

above the pavement. If we were going to dress it with
gold jewelry, or comparatively large things, we should re-
joice in a window at this level. As we are about to dress
it with diamond work, we fully realise that such a bottom
would lie too low to display the details of a high-class piece
of gem setting, and that scrutinising would be a back-
breaking job, to say nothing of the fact that it would
require an immense amount of stock to do justice to a
"window of such cubical capacity. We therefore elevate
it with a false bottom about a foot high. The front of this
slightly slopes away from the window, as shown in the
sketch,* and is covered with velvet, upon which can be dis-
played the name of the firm, And here a word of caution
may be necessary. Do not employ flaring large orna-
mental letters, certainly do not have them larger in pro-
portion than those shown in the sketch ; let them be
smaller if anything. There is no type of letter that looks
neater, nicer, or more artistic than antique somewhat con-
densed. The letters should be bevelled brass well burnished
and lacquered, or mat gilt. They should be pinned with
pins that go quite through the board, so that they can be
taken off to be cleaned should it be necessary to do so. On
either side of the name some slight advertisement can un-
ostentatiously appear, but it should be a trump card, such as
(if possible) "Court Jeweler," " To the Prince of Wales,"
" Jeweler by Appointment " (whatever that may mean), or
ii you have taken any medals they can be reproduced here
with good effect, with the place and date at which they were
obtained. If to neither of the above a claim is laid then
" Diamond " or " Gem Merchant " serve the same purpose.

Upon the false bottom should lie the board which will
form the absolute bottom of your window, inclined up-
wards at about eight or ten degrees. It should meet the
front board either in a rabbit or mitred edge, pre-
ferably the latter. It should be shaped out so as
to receive the back blocks, the latter in such a
case would rest upon the false bottom. The bottom board
should be velvet covered up to its meeting the back blocks,
and if desirable a piece of cord can be laid and tacked
along the joint the whole length of the window. This
has a very rich and finished effect, but takes up some
amount of room. On the other hand, the bottom board can
be left unshaped and covered with a full width of velvet,
and then you can advance or recede your blocks according
to the style you purpose to employ. Some days you may
feel you would like to introduce a few large things in cases,
which would naturally demand more space ; at others you
may feel that you would like to make a speciality of some
sort of article, with which you could not fill the window
when at its largest dimensions.

Next we have to consider the curved back blocks. These
should be got out very light in a window of this description ;
the back should be the stoutest, in which there should be a
hand-hole for lifting the blocks about ; the centre one
should possibly have two, cut vertically. Their fronts
should be cork-covered before the velvet is stretched on.
A tool run round the edge gives a great point of finish,
but it should be plain. We shall refer at greater length to
this on another occasion. The two other segments are flat-
backed, got out of half-inch stuff, with a strutted back,
which also forms the handle for lifting it in and out the
window ; it has a step in front of about three inches each
member, or a little less for the horizontal. Upon these we
have shown two ring-trays upon easels — one single-stones,
the other half-hoops. It would be as well to have these
segments also cork-covered, so that if desired, rings need
not be put here, but something else — bracelets, necklets,
or what not. Upon the top of each of the three principal
blocks is shown a velvet-covered bust, upon which can be
displayed with the maximum effect a necklet, and several

other things. This is a simple and effective stand, and
susceptible of a great variety of changes in its mode of
dressing ; the consideration of these, however, we must
leave till our next.

(To be continued.)

@ur Isetter from, tfte ©iamortiL

(By Vaalite.)

* Owing to the severe indisposition of the Editor, this sketch could
not he executed for this number, but will appear in the next, wheu
styles of dressing the same will be dealt with.

KlMBERLEY, NOV. 26th.

AD the Hebrew prophet chosen "diamonds"
instead of " wars " to portend the end of
the world, I should sometimes be inclined
to shake in my shoes if I were a victim of
the belief in prophecy, for on all sides one
is hearing of diamonds and rumors of
diamonds — not only in the sacred enclosure
of the classic area, but also in outlying districts. Still, the
most important are certainly those in and around the
Premier, which you probably are aware does not include
the whole of the estate upon which it is situated, the total of
the estate being something like 80,000 acres ; and although
Mr. Ward is finding, on an average, 3,000 carats a week
in developing the Premier itself — which recently have
included a 40-carat stone and another of 80 carats — he is
also testing other parts of the estate, with results that at
present it may not be advisable to publish. The fate of
the Premier is not altogether settled, although it is asserted
that the De Beers will work it conjointly with Mr. Ward.
But evidence of diamond-bearing strata are not limited to
this estate ; the artificial boundaries of individuals or
nations are not regarded by nature, and people out here
are fully aware of that fact. , Accordingly the adjoining
farms are being prospected, with more or less promising
indications. One of the farms known as " Riches " is
looking promising, while there is still strong evidences at
Glendenhies ; while the success of Messrs. Moir and Wilson
have stimulated a " new rush " ; and from " Belgravia "
comes a 60-carat herald of the nether earth. But in
the face of what has happened lately, a 60-carat stone
may not create a very great impression. I never
remember so many large stones being found about one
time as there has been recently, and those from various
depths. The Kimberl'ey Diamond Company has celebrated
its first year's working by a 58-carat stone ; the N.E.
Bultfontein has topped the list with one of 123 \, and another
of 179f. The New Gordan, too, although only a baby,
has added its quota of large stones. This latter mine, as I
ventured to prophesy at its reconstruction, is in a good
way ; they will have about 130,000 loads of blue, quite ripe
in about a month or six weeks ; we shall then see how
its yield will compare with the N.E. Bultfontein ; the
latter are washing upwards of 50,000 loads a month, with
a yield of about 1-7 of a carat to the load. They have
enormous quantities of blue and yellow weathering, and
there is some talk of suspending hauling. At Dutoitspan
things are looking more promising. Mr. Leslie hopes very
shortly to be able to report something very satisfactory in
regard to Otto's Kopje. Despite all our regulations and laws,
and what some people call the merciless administration of
them, the I. D. Bing still plays sad havoc in all the mines not
under the " compound " system ; it is confidently believed that
at least 15 per cent, of the totals of all diamonds found
go through this channel ; and even when the compound is
in full operation, robberies are of enormous magnitude ; a
native has been known to swallow upwards of 500 carats
of diamonds the week before leaving the compound, in-
cluding a 50-carat stone. The quality of the Jagersfontein

186

THE WATCHMAKER, JEWELER AND SILVERSMITH.

L-Tanualy 1, J 802,

is still keeping up, as will be seen by the fact that the
output for October was 9,520^ carats, which realised
£21,850. In various other parts of the county the river
diggings are looking up, especially at Klipdam. I was
speaking to a man the oilier day, who said he always goes
dcwn every week now to buy, whereas he only used to go
occasionally, and that buyers often bring back with
them £1,500 or £2,000 worth of stuff. There are also now
to be seen some beautiful fancy stones from Rarkley West
district ; but for all that, " the great monopoly " regulates
the market with a very strong hand, and despite all the
findings of other localities, they do not allow the market to
become glutted. It is true the total exports of
diamonds from the Cape during October was £573,036,
compared with £314,892 in the corresponding period of
last year ; still, for all that, the total for the ten months
ending October, 1891, was only £3,589,807, compared with
£3,591,093 for the corresponding period of 1890, showing
a slight difference of £1,286 in the favor of 1890.

An item of immense prophetic importance to be men-
tioned is that Mr. A. D. Maffey has brought to Kimberley
the first of the Tati gold, to the extent of over 300 oz.
As I think I pointed out to you, there are men connected
with this discovery well known in the jewelry trade. I recollect
Mr. Dan Francis showing me, when in the old country,
specimens of the first discovered reef; since that time they
have been proving the property, and from information I
have received, I should think this will ultimately turn
out of extraordinary dimensions ; I do not say it will rival
the Randt, which is expected this short month to nearly
double its output, compared with November, 1890, but it
will help to earn for South Africa the title of the ' ' Land of
Gold and Diamonds."

' ra n& at f antic jotting

R. CHARLES L. TIFFANY, probably the widest-
known jeweler in the world, and Mrs. Tiffany,
celebrated their golden wedding on Nov. 30. It is
only about three years si ace Mr. Tiffany celebrated the
fiftieth anniversary of his launching into business, which,
from a comparatively small beginning, has developed into
the colossal concern of to-day, employing between 1,200
and 1,300 hands. Seven acres of ground have recently
been taken for the erection of new silver and plated
factories.

* * *

TTTTlE New York Jewelers' Association annual banquet
®L® was recently celebrated with all the grandeur of
display characteristic of these gatherings. We feel
strongly inclined to give a verbatim report of one of these
banquets, just to show the trade how they do things on the
other side.

TT7 1 1 A N KSGIVING 1 )ay was also well celebrated, most of
^l;9 the jewelers closing and presenting their employes

with turkeys and what not.

'# •*■ *

Cf[ X exhibit at the World's Fair, likely to be of great
7T interest, is one which will be supplied by the U.S.

Patent ( Mfice. It will consist of models illustrating the
evolution of the modern horological machine from the old
Babylonian water-clock. It is well-known that one of the
authorities of this office has given considerable study to
this subject, so that the exhibit is likely to be complete.

* # *

XT is stated that the French jewelers are combining to-
X gether to make such a show at the Columbian
Exposition as shall make all the world acknowledge
that Paris is the modern Ratnapora — or City of Gems.
We are not likely to hear of any such "combine" with
English houses.

VT7IIE diamond cutters in New York have recently or-
e-life ganised a union. They have been granted a charter

by the American Federation of Labor. It includes
nearly every diamond cutter and polisher in the City of New
York. These steps, they maintain, are necessary to prevent
further reduction of prices, as already several reductipns
have been made during the last few years.
# # #

\|/IIE first young lady to learn diamond cutting and
^J/9 polishing in New York, after twelve years' work,

has recently been married.

# # *

FHILADELPHIA boasts of the largest automatic clock
in the world, being four times as large as the
celebrated Strasburg clock. It has upwards of 200
figures, nearly a foot high, in rich costume ; it cost
nearly 20,000 dols., and weighs 4,000 lbs. ; it stands 17
ft. 6 in. high and is over 12 ft. wide.

Round tb,© Watets Factories.

There is a rumour current that the Elgin Watch Com-
pany are about to make further additions to their factory
along the river bank, and will employ 900 more hands,
so as to be able to make their turn-out cf watches run up
to 2,500 a day.

A share in the American Waltham Watch Company
realised the other day 167-50 dols. The company is still
doing an immense trade.

The Illinois Watch Company has recently introduced
a new nickel movement which is spoken very well of.

In many of the factories orders are sufficient to last
fully a month or even two.

There was a fire the other day at the Elgin Company,
but fortunately it did but very little damage, as they could
ill afford to be put out just now.

The Kenosha, Wis., Watch-Case Company is limiting
its output.

The Globe Watch Company, of Grand Haven, Mich.,
with a capital of 50,000 dols., is about commencing to
build.

I hear the Columbus Watch Company do not intend to
reduce the prices paid to their hands, notwithstanding the
fall in the " eighteen " size.

More building is in course of construction at the
Waltham Dial Company, and its capital stock has been in-
creased to 100,000 dols.

The factory of the Waltham Watch Tool Company is
running very hard, being kept very busy, especially with
their lathes.

The San Jose Company turned out its first watch on
October 15th, fourteen days after the first trial of the
machinery.

A New York Journal says, " In all the history of the
American Waltham Watch Company there has never been
a strike in its works, although many of the workmen are
affiliated with labor organisations. The reasons become
apparent on a visit to Waltham. It is a model town, and the
works constitute a model factory. Every possible provision
is made for the safety and comfort of the employees. They
are paid the highest market wages, and where men and
women do the same class of work their pay is upon the
same scale. Married workmen are encouraged to own
their own homes, and for this purpose the company not
only sell them sites at cheap rates, but also advances ' them
money to build, which is repaid by instalments. Boarding-
houses are also maintained for the operatives, which are
so conducted that they pay their running expenses. and no
more. In addition, steady work is afforded to all
employees the year through."

January 1, 1892.]

THE WATCHMAKER, JEWELER AND SILVERSMITH.

137

©ur Ur^aoroug'fpi" Maferiaf^.

USKS OF

The large tusk that was exhibited at the German Exhi-
bition, and which measured seven feet nine inches, has
been acquired for the National Collection, and will hence-
forth be seen at the Natural History Museum, South
Kensington. Unfortunately it is without a history, and
there is nothing morphologically to separate the tusks of
the two species of elephant living to-day. But as it came
from Zanzibar it probably was the property of an African
elephant. A larger one still was sold at the last ivory
sales, but as it was bought for the Chicago Fair its price
is no criterion of its value.

Production of Aluminum.

We are informed that amongst the new electrolytic pro-
cesses for the production of this valuable, but perhaps
sometimes a little over-rated metal, the Minet process for
the production of aluminum by the electrolysis of fused
fluorides of sodium and aluminum, and chloride of sodium,
which, during the past few years, has been experimented
with at the works of Messrs. Bernard Freres, Creil, near
Paris, will be worked at St. Michel (Savoy). The motive
power will be supplied by a waterfall, and to commence
with, two dynamos of 3,600 amperes and 50 volts each
will be employed. Only 6,000 horse-power will be used,
but it is proposed to increase this to 20,000 horserpower.
The actual cost price of aluminum by the Minet process
is 3fr. 50c. (2s. lid.) per kilogramme, not including the
motive power, which can be calculated, given, as stated by
M. Minet, that one horse-power yields 30 grammes of
aluminum. The production of one kilogramme of alum-
inum requires lj- kilogramme of fluoride of aluminum ; 100
kilogrammes of aluminum are produced on electrolysing
150 kilogrammes of fluoride of aluminum, 200 kilogrammes
of alumina, and 100 kilogrammes of chloride of sodium.
To prevent the corrosion of the tanks by the electrolyte,
M. Minet has devised the combination of a metallic tank
shunted on to the cathode through a resistance, so that
there is no interruption in the electrolysis of fluoride with
aluminum, and no fluoride of the metal of which the tank is
made is formed, which metal would be deposited on the
cathode instead of the aluminum.

New ^Method of Nickel Plating.

A new method of nickel plating has been invented by
Mr. L. Mond, in conjunction with Messrs. Lang and
Quincke, all of Norwich. The process is thus described in
Electricity: — " It is found that on passing carbonic oxide
gas over nickel reduced to the metallic state by nascent
hydrogen, and maintained at a temperature of about 30",
the two bodies unite and form a liquid compound, which
boils at 43°, and is decomposed at 60°. On passing the
vapour of this compound over objects maintained at 60'
the nickel is deposited on them in a bright metallic state.
The liquid, naturally, can also be used for electro-deposi-
tion of nickel, and for this purpose the depositing surface
need only be coated with graphite."

The Nickel Mines of Canada.

The six mines in Ontario yielded a rich harvest last year,
and are still producing large quantities of metal. There
are four furnaces and 500 men at work in the Sudbury
district, and supplies show no sign of diminishing. It is
estimated that the product of the Canadian Copper Com-
pany's property for one month would supply work for the
Camden Nickel Works for nearly eighteen months.

Pp-ocess fopv the Extraction of Gold and
Silver.

According to accounts sent to us, Mr. John Cuninghame
Montgomerie, of Dulmore, Ayrshire, in conjunction with
Mr. Henry Parkes, of London, claim to have discovered a
process for the extraction of gold and silver from the
refractory gold and silver sulphide ores of the Champion
Mines, in the Thames district of New Zealand. These ores
are known to be of a very refractory nature. During the
past few months Mr. Montgomerie has personally carried
out a large number of experiments at his " Tarn o'
Shanter " Hone Works on this ore, with the result, it is
announced, that he had reduced the time for treatment
from sixteen hours to four hours, and with an extracting
power of from 95 to 99 per cent, of gold, and from 90 to
95 per cent, of silver. From trials on two special grades
of the Champion sulphide ores, the following results have
been obtained without the ore being calcined : — Ore assay-
ing loz. ldwt. llgr. gold, and 39oz. 4dwt. 21gr. silver,
98 per cent, of the gold, and 93 per cent, of the silver were
extracted; and from ore assaying 2oz. 9dwt. gold, and
59oz. 19dwt. 7gr. silver, as high as 99-62 per cent, of the
gold, and 95-39 per cent, of the silver have been taken
out.

Burma Tin JDeposits.

Once more attention is directed to the tin deposits of Burma
by the official report of Mr. Hughes, of the Indian Geologi-
cal Survey, who declares it to be a most extraordinary
deposit, quite beyond anything he has ever seen or heard
of for its richness. He has traced the reef for miles, and
in assaying a sample of it, a cubic yard gave nearly
1-J- cwt. of tin. There is nothing, he says, that he would
term a lode, but rather a zone of metamorphic rocks
through which the ore-bearing quartz can be traced. At-
one spot, Khow Muang, he estimates the reef in sight at
60,000 tons.

Aluminum and Photographic Instruments.

The suggestive paper of Mr. G. L. Addenbrook, in the
December number of the Journal of the Camera Club,
on the use of aluminum for the metal work in photo-
graphic instruments ought to be read by all manufacturers
of that class of article. He would not only use it for
flanges and that sort of thing, but for tripod heads, and, in
fact, in most cases where other metals are now employed.

©Jfie difertCencoef? Si>eneN?o?enr ^ociett_j .
\T7HE annual concert in connection with the above
elL® excellent institution was held on Nov. 30th at the
Agricultural Hall, Islington. As is usual on these
occasions the company .were treated to a host of the first
talent of the day, including Madame Antoinette Sterling,
Mr. Santley, Mr. Iver McKay, Mr. Maybrick, Miss Gomez,
and several others, all of whom had something specially
good for the occasion. The Trade must feel a great
amount of pride in being associated with this grand old
charity. In few instances have its benefits been more felt
than last year, when we had five months of exceptionally
severe weather. During that trying time the society dis-
tributed over 2,000 sacks of coal to needy poor, in addition
to upwards of 600 quarterns of bread. The concert was
well attended, and the whole reflected great credit upon
Mr. Woodman, who had the management of it.

Messrs. Botwright and Grey, manufacturing opticians
and shippers, desire us to mention that their representative
will be in Australia, New Zealand, and Tasmania about
the end of next February with a complete set of their samples,
etc., and will be glad to see customers.

L88

THE WATCHMAKER, JEWELER AND SILVERSMITH.

[January 1, 1892.

Watch and Block Making.

(Continued from "page 113.)
ehr^coer^ ancj I7ote<s> to Question**) ^>et at ffte
d)it,\/ ancj (5\ui?c}f£> of? T^onelo^ <^n/l>titute

Q^amiaatioa^.

By I. Herrmann,

Director of the Polytechnic School of Watch and Clock Making.

(III.)— Honors Paper, 1880.

UESTION (1).— Define "vis viva," moment of
inertia, radius of gyration, engaging and
disengaging friction, and explain g = 32-2.
Ansiver. — "Vis viva " is a term which
denotes the product of the mass of a body into
the square of its velocity, and is therefore
equivalent to twice the amount of work stored up m a
moving body, or to twice its kinetic energy.

If a force P pounds, acts on a. mass M pounds and
generates an acceleration f, then

M : P : : g : f

P £

-w <">

Again, if v denotes the velocity due to P's effect on M,
then

V2 = 2 s f (b)

substituting the value of f in ('() for f in (b), then

2sPJ
M

whence

(<•)

s P

(d)

V2M ,= 2 s Pg
V2M
" 2 g

_ The left-hand member of equation (c) denotes the " vis
viva" in absolute units, and the right-hand member of equa-
tion (d) gives the work stored up in a moving body, in foot
pounds, or its kinetic energy, in the same units, which is
equal to twice V2 M absolute units, and therefore equal to
twice the " vis viva."

* The answer in regard to "g"on page 255, vol. xvi., may be
given in another form than that expressed in the remarks on page
256, by equation (»i). Equation (<') could be used thus : let t denote
time of an oscillation, then squaring both members
t2g = ^2L (e)

whence g = !!lJJ (/,)

but the difficulty consists in the fact that it is practically impossible
to determine experimentally the time of a single oscillation to any
degree of certainty ; hence, it is necessary either to find t by finding
first how many oscillations a pendulum makes in a given time.

When t- = — (i)

n-
and then use equation (/<), or substitute value of t- in (i) for t2 in (h),

them

7T' L

(ii)

whence it again takes the form as in (m), page 256, vol. xvi.

When a pendulum is used for such a purpose the only serviceable
mode of suspension is that of the knife-edge. Suppose a rod is used,
then on one end a knife-edge is fixed, and another is made movable along
the rod and provided with a clamping screw. The second knife-edge
is then adjusted by experiment until the rod makes the same number
of oscillations about either edge. When the adjustment is completed
the distance between the respective knife-edges will give L, and
evidently in determining L, n can also be found, and T is quite
optional.

1 may also explain the method by connected bodies generally,
called "Attwood's machine," and state another answer as to g,
which may be deduced from that. This instrument is often
elaborately got up for the lecture room ; but the following will
explain the general principle : — Mount a pulley, such as is used in
regulators on fine lathe centres, so that it moves with the least
possible frictional resistance, that is, like the balance staff in an
American lever timepiece. Connect two ordinary symmetrical equal

If the mass of every particle of a body or material
system is multiplied by the square of its distance from a
straight line, the sum of these products is termed the
moment of inertia of the body or system in reference to
that line.

If K denote the distance from this line or axis, at which
the whole mass of the body should be collected, so that its
moment of inertia remains unchanged, that is, so that Ave
have

K2 2 A m = 2 r2 A m.

Where m denotes the mass of a small part of the body,
then K is termed the radius of gyration of the body in
respect of the axis ; r2 A m being the moment of inertia
of a small particle of the body, and r the distance of the
particle from the axis. Engaging and disengaging friction
may be defined as follows : —

If two surfaces rotate about fixed centres, and motion
is communicated from one to the other, so that the line
which contains the locus of the point of contact crosses
the line of centres, then the friction between the surfaces
due to the motion before the line of centres is termed
engaging friction, and the friction between surfaces due to
the motion past the line of centres is termed disengaging
frictions. Regarding g = 32-2 (see (2) in II., pages 255
and 256).*

Remarks. — The term " vis viva " originated with
Leibnitz, to signify the force of a body in motion, as disr
tinguished from the statical pressure of a body, which he
termed "vis mortua." Descartes asserted that M V
expressed the measure of the force of a body in motion,
and this contrariety of opinion led to the controversy re-
ferred to on page 255. Professor Rankin designated the
expression

§ 2 m v2
actual energy, which again has been called by Thomson
and Tait "kinetic energy" ("kinetics" being the name
given to that part of mechanics which treats of motion
apart from the cause producing it) , which term denotes one
half the ' ' vis viva " of a moving body, or its actual energy as
given in (d) and (e), pages 255 and 256, vol. xvi., in foot
pounds.

clock weights by a fine thread and sling them over the pulley. The
pulley requires to be mounted as high, and the thread to be as long-
as possible. The operator will observe that when they are thus
mounted the slightest impulse sets them in motion, and that they
move on with a uniform velocity (neglecting a slight retardation duo
to friction at the centres of motion, inertia of pulley, and
inflexibility of the thread), until the weight comes in contact with
some obstacle.

The mode of the principal experiment is this : — First ascertain the
mass of the weights in pounds very carefully. Place a small bar on
the top of one of the weights (the mode as to how it is to be placed
will appear evident from the mode of using it).

Let the loaded weight be uppermost, let it start from rest, and
cai'efully observe the time of its starting by seconds. After motion
has taken place for one, two, or more seconds — according to the space
at command — a provision is required by which the small weight pro-
ducing motion is taken off. For instance, if the supplementary
weight projects, and the loaded weight passes through a hole in a
bracket of just sufficient clearance that the former will remain on the
bracket. After this, motion is allowed to go on — which will now be
uniform — the space, described in the next observed time in seconds, will
give the acceleration. The space is found by placing an obstacle
in the way of the ascending or descending weight, so that motion
is arrested ; then the space is measured from the position of the
descending weight at the instant the supplementary weight was taken
off to its position where it came to rest.

To find the acceleration of gravity we proceed thus : — The reader
will observe that two seperate periods of time have elapsed in the
course of experiments, let \f/ denote the first period in seconds and \j/,
the second, then if v denotes the velocity acquired at the end ^ and f
the acceleration

v = f \f/

When f =

(*)

During \f/. the velocity remains constant, hence if s denotes the
space either of the weights moved over, then
s = v \j/.

hence v =

(')

Jantjaky 1, 1892.

THE WATCHMAKER, JEWELER AND SILVERSMITH.

139

The principle of "inertia" was first recognised by
Galileo, and that of "moment of inertia" is due to Eider,
who gave it the form

f r2d M,
and in this form it holds good to-day.

The principle of ' ' moment of inertia " is of the utmost
importance in all rotary machinery, and hence in Watch
and Clockwork especially, since "motion against time " is
the practical mission of every timepiece. Any workman
who is in the habit of applying balance-springs will have
observed that of two balances of the same weight, but of
different she, the larger will require a stronger spring.
In fact, suppose one is double the size, but the same weight,
then it will require a spring four times as strong, which
shows that mere weight, apart from size, is no guide what-
ever. (The relative proportions, variations of time,
weight, size, and strength of spring will be fully treated in
connection with question (10) in III. Honors Paper.)

It is also very important not to lose sight of this
principle in the construction of escape-wheels, for in the
case of two wheels of the same thickness, and one twice
the size of the other we have

Mr2 : M,r,2 : <f>, : <£. . . . (9)
where M and M, denote the masses of the wheels, r and r,
their radio of gyration, and <£ and <£, their angular accelera-
tion.

Let M = unity, then M, = 22 tt, if the thickness equals
unity and the masses are expressed in terms of the volume
then
1 xl2 : 22x22 ::</>,: <j> or 1 : 16 ::</>,: <f> . («)

Thus the resistance to the moving force is sixteen times
greater in the larger wheel than in the smaller wheel, from
winch we learn the fact that it is highly expedient to make
all moving parts as light and as small as geometrical con-
ditions will permit. Of course this conclusion does not
apply either to the balance or pendulum, for tins simple
reason, that in a train of wheels resistance to motion is a
waste of motive force, and in the balance and pendulum its
inertia tends to neutralise disturbing forces.

(«•)

Substitute value of u in (c) for v in (/.■), then
s

f _ f> — s _
f H,'

Again, if JI denotes the mass of the two weights, and m that of the
supplementary weight, then

(II + m) : m : : g : f

whence g =<M + m) f . . . . (h)

Substitute value of f in (m) for f in (it)

theng=0I+m)^i =(M+'m).». . . . {p)

If the periods of observation are units of time, then (p) takes the
form of (it).

g may also be analytically expressed thus : Let the origin o be a
point in the line of motion of a particle m, falling freely, and let x be
parallel to it, then

d x , d x

— = v and m
d t d t .

is the momentum of the particle, and therefore

d'-x

dt2
is the expressed momentum increment in a unit of time, which is
equal to the earth's impressed momentum increment in a second of
time ; hence

dzx

d'-x

— — • rn = m
dt-

dt-

(1'ti In' continued.')

W. Ellis and Co., Limited, has been registered with a
capital of £2,500, to carry on business as watchmakers
and jewelers. The present address of the company is in
Thavies Inn, Holborn.

ifvjer ©JraiLe J\nnuaf ©inner.

HE fifth annual dinner, followed by a smoking
concert, of the members of the Silver Trade
Council, London, has been held at the
Falstaff Restaurant, Eastcbeap, and was
numerously attended, covers being laid for
170, and 156 guests were present.

Mr. J. Jarvis (the president) occupied the
chair, and was supported by Mr. John Griffiths, secretary
of the council ; Mr. W. S. Dear, of the London Society of
Silver Plate Workers; Mr. W. Durrant, the London Society
of Silver Spoon and Fork Finishers ; Mr. Dan Leighton,
Silver Plate Workers ; Mr. H. G. Long, Silver Plate
Polishers ; Mr. A. E. Baker, vice-chairman ; and others.

The chairman, in proposing the toast of the evening,
" Success to the Affiliated Societies," began an eloquent
speech by expressing his sincere pleasure and gratification in
seeing such a splendid attendance of the members of the
silver trade on that occasion, which he anticipated was a
hopeful augury of a more brilliant and encouraging success
in the future. (Cheers.) It was a proof, if proof were in-
deed required, of the further advance of unionism ; and he
could assure his fellow-workers in the staple industry in
which they were all engaged that they ought to take
seriously and earnestly to heart the great and noble prin-
ciples which prompted and guided the cause of federated
workmen. (Applause.) He had had the pleasure, more
times than one, in presiding over the annual gatherings of
the London Silver Trade Council, and he was pleased to
say that each revolving year added to their numbers and
strength ; for it was a gratifying fact to record that whilst
they started with only seventy members sitting down to
their first banquet, they were favored that night with the
presence of no fewer than 150 gentlemen. (Loud cheers.)
It must be patent to all of them that it was their bounden
duty to adhere to the strict principles of unionism ; for it
must be obvious that, when rightly and properly conducted,
a good trade society conferred inestimable benefits on the
workers, whilst at the same time it was by no means in-
imical to the best interests of the employers. (Cheers.)

Mr. Dan Leighton, in acknowledging the toast of " The
Silver Plate Workers', Spoon and Fork Makers', and the
Small Silver Workers' Societies," endorsed the observations
of their esteemed chairman as to the benefits of unionism.
He was followed by Mr. H. G. Long, in response to the
toast of "The Silver Plate Polishers', Spoon and Fork
Filers', Finishers, Chasers, and General Silver Engravers'
Societies."

Mr. John Griffiths, replying to the toast of " The Silver
Trade Council," said :■ — It is rather more than seven years
ago since I entered into a new world of thought. I could
not help it. I had for some years travelled, and as a
corollary my mind has expanded, and has taken in what
we know as the principle of trade unionism. I could not
help thinking, although sometimes we only think — it was
in this very room — on the occasion of our first annual
dinner, held on the evening of the 19th of March, 1887
(it was not then called a trade dinner, as it was convened
by the Plate Workers' Society) — that I had the honor as one
of the respondents to the toast of " The Visitors " to throw
out a few suggestions. They, as you know, were not well
received. It was said to be out of place ; but it was the
only opportunity I had. One suggestion was that there
should be a medium by which the existing four societies
might be brought into line for common interests. The
following November your Silver Trade Council was estab-
lished, and you conferred upon me by a unanimous vote,
given by the representatives of those four societies, the
secretaryship. (Cheers.) Since then your council has
grown by the addition of three more societies. Of what use
are these societies ? More than we can possibly measure.
Take the Trade Guilds — they do not like to call it a trade

140

THE WATCHMAKER, JEWELER AND SILVERSMITH.

ANUARY

1, 1892.

Union — established over 700 years. That was a small be-
ginning. Then what may we not become '? With us it is
essential. Most of the industries of the kingdom' are
organised, and they tend to limit the amount of labor
necessary to tins or that particular trade. What is to
become of those men who cannot obtain employment in
those organised industries '? They will surely take the road
of least resistance, i.e., they will drift into those trades not
organised, and consequently, through the ever-growing
system of the subdivision of labor, will help to lower the
standard of skill and of our life conditions, and as a sequence
there will be more friction and a lowering of our moral
tone. (Cheers.) The formation of these societies is no
menace to our employers. Our interests are mutual, and
besides, they tend to quicken the better aspirations of the
men, and make them less dependent upon charity. It tends
to strengthen their self-reliance, and to govern and direct
their better qualities. Therefore, we are not organised for
aggression, but for defence against the encroachment of
surplus labor of other organised industries, and we claim
to have the right, not privilege, to direct and govern our
own forces. The unionism I advocate is the unionism of
mutual cohesion, and not of coercion. Those who do not
agree with us, we must convert, and not make them enemies
to our cause, and see that our policy should be prospective
and not retrospective.

The toast of " The Silver Trade Pension Society " was
proposed by Mr. John Ludford, and in the course of his
remarks he said he was able to announce that the benefit
was another financial success, and that as soon as the com-
mittee met, in a few days, the balance-sheet would be issued
to the trade ; and, thanks to the energy of their friend, Mr.
Griffiths, they would in less than two years have handed to
the Silver Trade Pension the sum of £130.

Mr. W. S. Dear, one of the trustees of the Silver Trade
Pension Society, responded to the toast, and stated that as
there were some who were not subscribers present he would
point out the objects. They were to aid poor and aged'
persons, of either sex, who had been employed in any
capacity in the silver trade. Pensions are granted of £10
per annum to females, and £15 to males, and an extra
allowance in proportion to the amount of subscriptions
paid to the society by the subscriber. These advantages
were to be obtained for the small subscription of five
shillings per annum.

The concert (in which Messrs. Lindley, Darby, W. Dur-
rant, Arthur Lawrence, F. Hewson, Edward Garner, and
many others, took part) was in every way a decided success,
and reflects very great credit upon those who were respon-
sible for the arrangements.

-@8@-

The Chicago Jewelers' Journal for November is a special
silver number, containing full-page photos of the heads of the
various silver houses out West, each accompanied by de-
scriptive text. We have often considered the advisability
of doing the same in the Watchmaker, Jeweler, and
Silversmith, and of producing such a series of represen-
tative men as we have done for our other journals. In
these lists are included men holding the highest positions
in the land, and men who are well on towards millionaires,
which facts are perhaps to be accounted for by their
appreciating the indispensability of publicity, a secret which
it must be acknowledged lias yet to be learned by the
majority of our trade.

" Weep for the fallen ! " Dissatisfied with the prosperity
enjoyed under the old traditions of Free Trade, the Govern-
ment of New South Wales have imposed the almost
prohibitive tax of 15 per cent import duty on our wares.
Still, they must have the useful and indispensable of our
productions, and the luxuries they will have. We shall not
offer goods at 20 per cent cheaper ; it is they who will have
to pay for the goods, and the tax too.

(#n anc} @ut i-fpe d>ouril&.

The Charge against a Leicester Jeweler. — Many will
be pleased to hear that the trial of Mr. Jobson, of Leicester,
on a charge of conspiracy, has entirely fallen through. It is
often remarked that one tale is good till another is told, and
now that Mr. Jobson has had an opportunity of a hearing,
and we have heard his tale, we are disposed to consider that
he was among the victims of the man Redhouse. It is per-
haps a pity that the trial was closed before it was thoroughly
gone through, as Mr. Jobson would then have had an
opportunity of explaining that part of the affair which cer-
tainly appeared to require explanation. The facts of the
case are these : Mr. Jobson wrote to Mr. George, a London
Jeveler, for a character of Redhouse, whose report was to
the effect that the latter was strictly honest and steady,
and, as far as he knew, respectable. He further informed
Mr. Jobson that Redhouse had since bought a business, and
was doing well as a wholesale and retail jeweler, and that
he believed that Redhouse had lately come into a legacy of
£1,000. That Mr. George himself believed what he said
was evinced by the fact that he lent Redhouse £150, so
that he, too, could be numbered amongst the victims. Then
there were other facts known to Mr. Jobson ; firstly, that
Redhouse was the nephew of a gentleman of title, and
secondly, that he had seen Redhouse's bank-book, which
showed a balance of £765. It was only natural in the
face of all this that Mr. Jobson should have replied to the
wholesale people that he considered Redhouse all right for
£100. It is also what one would expect — presuming Red-
house to be acting on the lines of getting stock and con-
verting it into money — that he should try to dispose of some
of his goods to Jobson at a tempting price on the assurance
that he had bought them cheap, and did not want to make
a profit out of Mr. Jobson, and that, under such circum-
stances, the latter should have bought so largely as to be
obliged to resort to pawning them to keep up his working
capital. However, before the trial got to anything near
the end — indeed, as soon as the letter of Mr. Jobson to Mr.
George, and the latter 's reply to it was put in — the judge
considered the charge of conspiracy had fallen through,
and the trial was brought to a close. If Mr. Jobson has
been duped in this manner, no one can withhold sym-
pathy from him, as it is no more than many others would
have done, and are in the habit of doing. At the same
time, it is very hard for the wholesale firms who, believing
Mr. Jobson to be not only above suspicion, but also beyond
making, a mistake, should have to lose their goods through
parting with them on such a reference. The case is not
without its lesson to all business men.

The Licence and Travellers. — At the Frome Police-court
recently, Lazarus Simon, traveller for Messrs. J. Harris and
Sons, Jewelers, Finsbury Pavement, was summoned for
dealing in plate and not having a licence so to do. — The
evidence showed that on Sept. 2nd Mr. William Kelly saw
defendant sell a gold albert to a butcher's assistant, the
chain being handed over at the time on £1 deposit being
paid, the remainder, £3 10s., to be paid in monthly instal-
ments. The defence was that the defendant being a boncl-
Jide traveller of the firm, simply accepted the order for the
chain, the selling being done by his employers. The
magistrates said the case was an important one, and they
were not unanimous in their verdict. The majority con-
sidered the case proved, and inflicted a fine of 20s., but
were willing to state a case. Another similar action was
brought against Leon Fisher, Gill Street, Nottingham, on
behalf of the Commissioners of Inland Revenue. The
evidence showed that defendant employed a traveller, or
agent, to canvass and sell watches, and that the watch in
question was sold in the Station Inn, Morton, when he was
not licensed to sell on any other premises than his own at
Nottingham. The defence relied on a written agreement

January 1, 1892.]

THE WATCHMAKER, JEWELER AND SILVERSMITH.

141

showing that the watch was not actually sold, as it re-
mained the property of the defendant until the payment of
the last instalment ; also that the sale, if there was one,
was made by the defendant's agent, a view the Bench did
not accept.

Appro, or Sale. — A somewhat curious case was heard on
December 9th at the Bradford County Court. Mr. Solomon
Lyon, wholesale jeweler, of Birmingham, sued Messrs.
Henry Arensberg and Son, pawnbrokers and jewelers, of
Bradford, for £35, the price of a ring. It appeared that
the plaintiff's traveller called upon Mr. Louis Arensberg
on February 17th of the present year, when Mr. Arensberg
selected a half-hoop diamond ring, the price of which was
£35. It was arranged that should the article not be sold
it should be exchanged for goods of a similar value on the
next visit. In August Mr. Arensberg said he had not sold
the ring, and proceeded to pick out other goods for
exchange. He offered, however, only £29 for goods marked
clearly £52, and the traveller, refusing to entertain the
offer, went away. Subsequently the ring was returned to
Mr. Lyon, who now held it under protest. Mr. Macmaster,
for the defence, said the understanding was that they might
either exchange or return the ring. Mr. Louis Arensberg,
in evidence, said that the usual custom was for him to buy
goods on sale or return. If the goods were sold before the
next visit of the traveller, they would then be paid for. If
not sold, they would be returned. His Honor remarked
that in this case the jeweler was simply carrying on busi-
ness with the capital of the manufacturer. Mr. Arensberg
said that was so. On the suggestion of his Honor the
defendants agreed to accept goods to the value of the ring
in exchange, and the case was adjourned for a month, his
Honor remarking that he hoped he would hear no more of it.

flings jjffetf/ and fjobeti/ortyy.

An Automatic Memorandum Clock.

One is often at a loss to know whether to be amused or
disgusted at some of the various "inventions" that are
brought out in connection with clocks. Not very long ago
a man patented a clock that rang one up at any given hour,
heated his water for shaving, made his coffee, and cooked
his eggs and bacon. One wonders why it did not also take
him to business ; this would have been just about as prac-
tical as the other claims. But although these claims are
extensive they are no more absurd and useless than many
others of far less pretensions. It is very rarely indeed
that one has the pleasure of seeing anything that is really
valuable, practical, useful, and new ; but all these claims
have, we think, recently been established for a clock in-
vented by Mr. Jno. Davidson, of High Street, Wick, N.B.,
which has been patented in England, Germany, and
America.

Added to all the other characteristics there is another of
equal importance, and that is simplicity, which is shared
to such an extent by this clock, that a glance at the above
illustration will immediately explain its nature. It is
called an "Automatic Memorandum Clock." It will be
seen that the top lifts off, exposing small receptacles into
which 48 tablets can be put, opposite the time at which
they are to act. When those specified times arrive, down
falls the memo into a receptacle in front, showing that Mr.
Jones is due 3.30 ; which fact is further impressed upon
the mind by the ringing of a bell. The thousand-and-one
ways this invention will prove of service to business men
soon become apparent upon consideration. It does away
with making notes ; it facilitates making use of every
moment of the day. If a principal should happen to be
out, and Mr. Smith calls and says he has an appointment

at 1.30, the next in charge can easily open the clock and
see if such is the case. For the hospital and sick room it
must prove invaluable.

Messrs. P. Vaughton and Sons, Gothic Works, Great
Hampton Row, Birmingham, have recently supplied some
silver heraldic badges for Earl Beauchamp. The actual
size of the badges is 5 Jin. in length and 2 5-8in. in width.
The centre portion of the badge is occupied by a representa-

tion of the " Lion passant queue fourchee." The form of
the "lion," which is embossed in high relief and carved,
is based on that of one of the lions from the shield of Prince
John of Eltham in Westminster Abbey (a.d. 1336), and
which is a fine example of the best period in English
heraldry. The lion is encircled by a border of the Gothic
" pointed ellipse " form, diminishing in width towards the
two ends, and bearing the motto — " Christ est mort pour
nos peches " in raised letters of an early Roman character.
The two pointed ends of the centre are each occupied by
an early English form of the Gothic letter B, and the date
1890 is divided between the two ends.

The whole design is produced in repoussee, the " field "
of the centre part being perfectly plain, and the border
posted. They recently supplied the key for the opening
ceremony of the new Wesleyan Schools, Eastwood, by the
Mayoress of Keighley.

1 12

THE WATCHMAKER. JEWELER AND SILVERSMITH.

[January 1, 1892.

gome Recent* ^ar^iCee " RofionA."

Watch Bow Fasten er. — Fmtz Mink, Philadelphia, Pa.,
assignor to the Keystone Watch Case Company of Penn-
sylvania.
In a watch bow fastener, the combination of a watch
pendant provided with apertures in its sides, a bow pro-
vided on its ends with
enlargements or heads,
longitudinally divided
\\1| $JJ sockets fitting said aper-

Tl Jr tures in the pendant

adapted to receive the
heads of the ends of
the bow and provided
with integral collars on
their outer portions, and
fastening devices for fastening said integral collars to the
body of the pendant.

Watch Bow Fastener. — Edward C. Chappatte, Phila-
delphia, Pa., assignor to the Keystone Watch Case Com-
pany, same place.
In a bow fastener, the combination of a watch case pen-
dant provided with holes or sockets on diametrically
opposite sides, the inner surface of the
pendant being countersunk or recessed
about said apertures, a watch bow
having its ends inserted through said
holes or sockets, and pins or keys ex-
tending transversely through the ends
of the bow on the inner side of the pendant to lock the
bow therein.

Watch Bow Faslener.
Mass.

-Charles F. Morrill, Boston,

The combination of a pendant having orifices in its sides
to receive the ends of the bow and
internal recesses surrounding said ori-
fices, of the bow having its ends
projecting into said recesses, indepen-
dent fastening devices engaged with
the ends of the bow within the recesses,
and washers held in place in the recesses
by said fastening devices.

Apparatus for Coloring Watch Springs. — John

Logan, Waltham, Mass.
The combination, with a hollow rotary heater having its
axis vertical and having a closed upper and open lower
end and provided with a cylindrical or pulley-like upper

part around which the wire may pass, of a rotary bohbin
or reel for drawing the wire around the cylindrical part of
the heater, means for rotating the bobbin and heating
means located under the open end of the heater.

Watchmakers Truing Tool. — Richard E. Fenner,
Chicago, 111., assignor to the Columbian Novelty Com-
pany, same place.
A wheel truing de\ice comprising, in combination, a handle,
a frame upon the handle having stationary arms t' t'2, a
bearing for the wheel on one arm, a movable jaw piece or

bearing for the wheel on the other arm, and an operating-
lever pivoted upon the frame and connected with the mov-
jaw piece.

Watchmaker's Tweezers. — Olavus Kolstad, Pleasant

Hill, Mo.
A jeweler's tweezers having jaws, a a, flattened on their
inner faces and rounded on their outer faces, and a trans-

» t

verse groove across the inner face of one jaw at its extreme

outer edge.

Watch Dial Enamelling and Baking Machine. —

Eppa H. Ryon, Aurora, 111.
The combination of the revolving wheel C, provided
with the non-combustible arms D, the furnace E, provided

with the opening/, and the arm g, located above the non-
combustible arms D.

Watch Dial Enamelling Machine. — Eppa H. Ryon,

Aurora, 111.
The combination of the wdieel B, provided with a ring
C, the connecting bars b, the vertical flanges a, located

between the tracks or ways e, the tracks or ways c, the
disks F, and the hopper E.

January 1, 1892.]

THE WATCHMAKER, JEWELER AND SILVERSMITH.

143

^_anc[om 53) ri effete.

After the Diamond Rings. — After loitering about the
premises of Mr. Thomas Cook, 565, Commercial Road, for
some time, one of a gang of half a dozen men — a tall,
thin young man, who was standing in the gutter with a
parcel rolled in a newspaper under his arm — suddenly
hurled it at the window of this shop, in which there was a
large quantity of valuable jewelry. Immediately two other
men snatched two trays of diamond rings, one being worth
£400 and the other £250, and ran down an adjoining
street. A son of Mr. Cook rushed out, and attempted to
grapple with the men, but they tripped him up, and
escaped. A young man crossing from the opposite side of
the roadway saw the first man throw the missile, which
appears to have been a brick, and chased one of the robbers,
but was unable to keep up with him. Twenty years ago a
tray of diamond rings valued at £400 was stolen from the
same shop.

Grandfathers' Clocks. — A sale at Mr. Ryder's auction
rooms in the Strand, the other day, evinced the fact that
spoon collecting is not the only " fad," but that the collect-
ing of grandfathers' clocks can be, and is, carried on to a
large extent, and when such a collection is made it is a
very interesting one. This collection put up for sale spoke
of many clockmakers of East Anglia unknown to fame. One
clock, dated 1671, was in a solid brass case, and was by the
well-known maker, Windmill, London. Amongst the
names in East Anglia, were Gumming, of Louth, R. Hall, of
Wells, A. M. Hall, of Wells, Nicholls, of Wells, Blowers,
of Beccles, Hill, of Walsingham, J. Head, of Burnham,
Yeats, of Walsingham, England, of North Petherton,
Levick, of Market Rasen.

Remarkable Sale of Coins. — Recently Messrs. Sotheby,
Wilkinson, and Hodge, have held a series of sales of coins
of different collections, some of them realizing very high
prices, and showing an advance in the market value of some
of these treasures: — Philip and Mary shillings, £5 7s. 6d.;
groat of Richard II., £3 2s. Id. ; while a farthing of the
same monarch realized £4 4s ; Edward V. groat,
£5 7s. 6d. ' Patterns and proofs of any date realized a good
price. In antique coins tetradrachms brought good prices,
many bringing between £30 and £40. A number of British
gold inscribed pieces were sold at prices varying from £5
to £10. One of Cromwell's pattern sixpences brought
£15 10s. The principal buyers were Messrs. Spink, Ready
(formerly of the British Museum, now of Rathbone Place,
W.), James, Rollin, Verity, and Lincoln.

That Great Statesman, McKinley ! — We have heard
Cousin Jonathan assert that " McKinley is the greatest
statesman on earth" ; but, unfortunately, he is not much
better informed than the majority of free and enlightened
Englishmen. The association of the name of McKinley
with the bill was, we believe, purely accidental. When the
bill came up to the House of Representatives, his name as
chairman of the committee was upon the back of the bill,
and, as everything must have a name, so this became known
as the McKinley bill !

At the Royal Metrological Society on November 18,
Mr. R. H. Scott, F.R.S., read a report of the International
Metrological Conference held at Munich from August 26
to September 2nd. On the same occasion Mr. Binnie read
a paper upon a new form of electric self-recording rain
gauge, constructed upon the assumption that all drops fall-
ing from an orifice or tube are identical in weight so long
as the dimensions of the orifice are not varied.

The Gold of South Africa. — The output of the Randt
for November has again beaten the record, reaching the
grand total of 72,793 oz. Preparations are being made for
estimating the total productions of the Transvaal ; we shall
then see how important a part of the world's output South
Africa is contributing.

<^oHn (Harrison ©ace More.

{Concluded from page 78.)

No wonder, then, that commercial nations set themselves
to discover some method whereby the longitude of vessels
at sea might be ascertained. Rewards had been offered by
other nations. In the sixteenth century Spain offered
100,000 crowns, and Holland 20,000 florins to anyone of
any nation who could produce such an invention. In 1714
England offered the immense sum of £20,000. Men of
science in all countries strove to obtain the reward, not
only for its money value, but also for the honor of having
made such a discovery, and for the satisfaction of having
saved multitudes from a watery grave. Sir Isaac Newton,
Sir Christopher Wren, and others great in the scientific
world coveted earnestly and worked diligently for the
honor. It was the greatest prize ever offered by any
Government for any discovery. But so insuperable were
the difficulties that for fourteen years after the reward had
been offered not a single inventor presented himself to
claim it. That high honor was claimed by John Harrison,
a working joiner, of Barrow-upon-Humber.

John Harrison was no doubt a very clever fellow, but he
was also a very hard worker. What was necessary, we
have seen, was a timekeeper or chronometer which would
tell the time accurately in all climates, hot and cold alike,
and under all circumstances. It was this, that John
Harrison invented. Working at his trade in the daytime,
he toiled late at night and early in the morning, he faced
difficulties, he battled with what the highest authorities
had pronounced to be impossibilities — and he succeeded.

Dr. Smiles tells us that a clergyman who came to the
village to preach every Sunday, having heard of the indus-
trious application of the young joiner, lent him a manu-
script copy of Professor Saunderson's discourses. Young
Harrison copied them out, spending sometimes the greater
part of the night writing, or drawing, or calculating.

So difficult was the work which he had set himself to do
that the Government reward offered was £10,000 for the
discovery of a method of ascertaining the longitude at sea
within sixty geographical miles, £15,000 within forty
miles, and £20,000 within thirty miles. John Harrison's
chronometer kept time so accurately that in a voyage of
four months it erred only one minute and 54x seconds,
amounting to but eighteen geographical miles.

Clearly, John Harrison, of Barrow-on-Humber, had
merited the great reward !

One would have thought that the prize would imme-
diately have been paid him. But it is evident, from the
history of the transaction, that the men of great name and
high position in authority did not like to acknowledge that
they had been beaten by a humble village joiner. John
Harrison received several sums on account, a sufficient
acknowledgment of his claim, but it was not until the year
1773, forty-five years after the commencement of his
experiments that he received the final balance of the
£20,000. He was then eighty years of age, and he died at
the age of eighty-three, on March 24, 1776.

It is interesting to know that, while the British Govern-
ment were so slow to recognise the indisputable claim of
John Harrison, the King of Sardinia, "in acknowledgment
of his ingenuity, and as some recompense for his time
spent for the general good of mankind," ordered four of
his chronometers at the price of £1,000 each.

Dr. Smiles (" Men of Invention and Industry ") tells us
that Henry Harrison, the father of the celebrated John,
migrated to Barrow in the year 1700. In our Parish
Register there is recorded the burial on June 24, 1728, of
"Henry Harrison, clerk, 31 years." If these Henrys be the
same person, and there has been no other Henry buried in
Barrow, then he must have come here before 1700, for he
was apparently appointed parish clerk in 1697. And as it

1 II

THE WATCHMAKER, JEWELER AND SILVERSMITH.

[January 1, 1892.

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January 1, 1832.]

THE WATCHMAKER, JEWELER AND SILVERSMITH.

xix

Rates of Deck Watches on Trial for Purchase by the Admiralty at the Royal Observatory,
Greenwich, from October 25th, 1890, to February 14th, 1891.

■

ABSTRACT OF THE PRINCIPAL CHANGES OF RATE.

Difference be-
tween greatest

Greatest differ-
i ence between

Difference of Weekly Rates.

I
Trial Numher.

and least

one week and

Pendant

a+25 +

NAME OF MAKER.

No.

Weekly Rates.

the next.

right

left

Dial up.
a

Dial up.
b

— Dial up.

— -Dial up.

— Dial up.

i(c+dje)

Broekhank and Atkins . .

261

21-2

5-2

— 8-3

— 1-6

— 2-0

36-4

Usher and Cole

25262

15-5

12-7

— 91

+ 33-8

— 1-9

515

Bannister and Son

1711

18-5 12-8

— 7-7

— 3-1

— 42-8

55-6

Isaac

10827

20-1 14-0

— 17-6

+ 5-1

+ 4-4

58-5

Usher and Cole

25507

23-3

16-6

+ 10-3

+ 28-1

+ 17-2

72-3

Spiegelhalter and Son

3650

38-7

15-5

+ 7-7

+ 3-2

+ 14-2

76-5

Ashley

3922

29-8

15-9

+ 12-1

— 26-6

+ 31-8

77-4

Hall

2761

25-4

22-0

+ 9-3

— 27-8

— 26-4

83-1

Isaac

10834

24-5

21-1

+ 30-6

+ 27-8

+ 4-9

87-5

Player

25455

29-3

196

+ 0-7

+ 53-4

+ 61-4

87-9

C. Frodsham

07953

47-3

12-3

+ 36-6

— 5'5

+ 11-3

93-0

Spiegelhalter and Son . .

3005

277

26-5

+ 32-1

— 2-9

— 1-7

97-6

C. Frodsham

0J463

31-5

22-9

— 23-7

— 23-4

— 33-6

98-7

Brockbank and Atkins

74263

40-6

24-7

+ 6 9

+ 16-8

+ 19-6

99-6

Brockbank and Atkins. .

74261

32-2

23-4

+ 37-7

+ 11-5

+ 1-7

100-1

Hall

2760

23-6

12-6

+ 37-7

— 103-7

— 91-1

100-2

Buckney

30201

33-2

16-7

— 47-2

— 27-0

— 40-8

101-5

Isaac

10826

33-0

23-2

— 39-5

— 23-9

— 22 3

106-9

Isaac . . . .

10832

25-7 12-4

+ 101-8

+ 28-6

— 18-7

109-3

Brockbank and Atkins. .

74262

21-3 20-8

+ 40-7

— 116-6

— 41-7

109-7

Buckney

30400

42-8 30-5

— 8-9

— 2-6

+ 21-6

112-3

Bannister and Son

1710

50-6 18-8

+ 31-3

+ 28-5

+ 58-2

118-4

Kendal and Dent

17294

28-4 15-0

+ 113-7

+ 46-2

+ 41-7

131-4

Ashley . .

3628

50-6

41-3

— 0-6

— 4-4

+ 3-0

134-7

Hammersley ' . .

4014

64-7

21-9

+ 45-7

— 26-7

— 28-1

140-5

J. Poole and Co.

6498

51-1

+ 19-0

— 11-3

— 11-6

166-6

Isaac

10830

72-0

49-8

— 9-0

— 74-8

— 92-5

204-0

Kendal and Dent

12511

69-4 6P-4

+ 29-0

— 9-7

— 40-5

231-1

Kendal and Dent

25450

74-0

+ 2-8

— 69-8

— 54-2

244-1

Player

25454

93-1

78-9

+ 67-6

+ 70-3

+ 46-5

304-2

J. Poole and Co.

6566

191-5

146-5

- 6-5

— 60 8

— 90-9

513-1

Usher and Cole, 25262. — The mainspring-

of this -watch was found broken in the 10th'

week of the trial. Its position in the list,

having been determined without reference to th

e duration of the trial, is not necessarily correc

:t.

Player, 25454. — The mainspring of this wa

;ch was found broken in the 11th week of th

3 trial, after the trials in pc

sition and heat.

Its position in the list, having been determined

without reference to the duration of the trial,

is not necessarily correct.

( Continued from page 143. J

is scarcely likely that he would obtain such an appointment
in the first year of his residence in the parish, John must
have been quiie a baby when he was brought here by his
parents, and there is just the possibility that the great
longitudinarian may, after all, have been a native of
Barrow.

On the north side of Christ Church, Hampstead, there is
a tombstone erected in bis memory, on which is the follow-
ing inscription : —

" In Memory of Mr. John Harrison, late of Red Lion
Square, London, Inventor of the Timekeeper for ascertain-
ing the Longitude at sea. He was born at Foulby, in
the Co. of York, and was the son of a builder of that place,
who brought him up to the same profession. Before he
attained the age of twenty-one, he, without any instru-
ments, employed himself in cleaning and repairing clocks
and watches, and made a few of the former chiefly of wood.
At the age of twenty-one he employed his whole time in
chronometrical improvements. He was the inventor of the
Gridiron pendulum and the method of preventing the effect
of heat and cold upon timekeepers by two bars of different
metals fixed together. He introduced the Secondary Spring
to keep them going while winding up, and was the inventor

of most (or all) of the improvements in clocks and watches
during his time.

" In the year 1735 his first timekeeper was sent to
Lisbon, and in 1764 his then much improved fourth time-
keeper having been sent to Barbadoes, the Commissioners
of Longitude certified that it had determined the longitude
within one-third of half a degree of a great circle, having
erred not more than 40 seconds in time.

" After sixty years close application to the above pur-
suits, he departed this life on the 21th day of March, 1776.
Aged 83.

" Mrs. Elizabeth Harrison, wife of the above Mr. John
Harrison, departed this life March 5, 1772. Aged 72."

On the upper part of the tombstone is inscribed : —

" Beconstructed at the expense of the Worshipful Com-
pany of Clockmakers of the City of London, 1879. William
Parker, Master."

It will be seen that if Henry Harrison came to Barrow
in 1700, John would be a boy of seven years old at that
time.

John Harrison had a brother James, who, it his been
said, was the cleverer of the two.

It has been asserted that the claims of James to the

THE WATCHMAKER, JEWELER AND SILVERSMITH.

[January 1, 1892.

PAUL JEANNOT

'^^ 33, HOLBORN VIADUCT, LONDON, E.C.

. MANUFACTURER OF SWISS WATCHES OF EVERY DESCRIPTION — Fine and Ordinary.

^^ SPECIALITY:-

The Double Roller Adjusted Leyer

Keyless Watcli, with and without Kew Certificates, in Nickel,
Steel, Silver and Gold Cases.

^MANUFACTORIES AT GENEVA & CHAUX-DE-FONDS

Telegraphic Address :— " JEANNOT, LONDON."

A. GARSTIN & CO.,

THE INDIANA.— As worn by Her Majesty's
Officers in India.

LEATHER GOODS MANUFACTURERS.

PA1ENTEES OF "WATCH WRISTLETS, CLOCK AND "WATCH CASES, &c.

WRISTLETS IN VARIOUS STYLES AND
PRICES.

Patent

Registered No. 94749.

1, 2, 3, 4, 9, 10, & 11, QUEEN SQUARE, ALDERSGATE STREET, E.C.

Honourable

Mention

International

Exhibition,

Established 75/5.]

ENGLISH WATCHES.

[Established 1815.

chafes j. jm*k>

RUSSELL HOUSE, COVENTRY; and LONDON.

REGISTERED TRADE MARKS.

London, 1862. »

* TnADt

"TALBOTT & TALBOTT."

COLS

"JOHN FORREST."

» Prize Medal,
J New Zealand
J Exhibition,
J 1882.

* Prize Medal,
J Coventry,! 867.

T9ADE MARK I

J. G. OLIVER,

Alitor Match €ast jEafor.

English Movements Re-cased as Crystals,
2-oz, Cases, Engine-turned, &c, 17/6.

6, KING SQUARE, LONDON, E.C.

THWAITES BROTHERS,

Church, House, Transparent, Telegiaph, Steam-gauge,
and Geieral

25, ST. JOHN STREET ROAD,

CLERKENWELL, LONDON, E.C

Gold Medal, International Exhibioion ; also Society of

Arts Prizes for Clock Dials.
Gold and Silver Dials Painted and Named.

CHEAP AND COOD, EFFECTIVE AND ILLUSTRATIVE

TYPE PRINTING,

1000 HANDBILLS, 7* by 5. 3 9 ; 5.°°°. 8-; io.oco, 12-/;
Billheads, Noteheads, Statements, Memos, 8} by 5}, 500, 3 6; i.eco,

5 6; Circulars, 8| by si, 500, 46; 1,000, 6 6; White or Tintid
Paper; Business Cards, 3} by 2J. 500,4.; 1,000, 6 6 ; 4i by 3, 500,

6 6 ' 1.000. 9 6- Casli with all Orders. Proof submitted. Blocks
Furnished Free. Sent Carriage Paid. Hundreds of unsolicited Testi-
monials from London, the Provinces, and Abroad. CRICK & CO.,
High Cross Works, Tottenham, London. Established 1880.

SPECIMEN TESTIMONIAL.
" High Street, Wendover, Bucks. January 13th, r8oi.
" DEAR SIRS.— The billheads duly received. Pass my expecta
tions both as regards style and quality, while the price is indeed very

"J. T. BROWN, Watchrcal-ti.
Catalogue of Blc:ks, crown 4to.. 44 PP . price 4d., post free

January 1, 1892.1

THE WATCHMAKER, JEWELER AND SILVERSMITH.

145

fame of the discovery of the Marine Chronometer were
equal to those of John, but that John was the more push-
ing of the two, and that by keeping himself in the front
he succeeded in obtaining the celebrity and the reward
which, partly at least, belonged to James.

Canon Machell has given me a paper which was written
by the late Mr. W. S. Heselden, of Barton, in 1828, which,
on account of its authorship deserves attention. It reads
at follows : —

" John and James Harrison were brothers, and carpenters
at Barrow, in the county of Lincoln, ingenious men [who]
set to work together in the construction of a timepiece on
a new principle, and with the intention of obtaining the
promised reward for the discovery of the longitude.
James was the greater genius of the two, and from his
conceptions the timekeeper was modeled and completed ;
but being the more careless and easy of the two, as to
disposition and habits, he allowed his brother to take the
machine up to London.

" As was anticipated by their neighbours he introduced
it as his own sole invention, and not only obtained the full
credit for it himself, but also laid the foundation for his
family, obtaining the £20,000 reward, which after much
trouble and exertion was finally and fully paid to him.

" Poor James in the interim obtained no share either in
the renown whieh was heaped upon his brother for his
discovery, nor any of the reward which was paid by the
Government. The only acknowledgement James or his
family ever received was the free grant to them of the
house in which they were born, being the cottage on the
left-hand side of the road as you enter Barrow [from
Barton] and having been sold by James's family is now
the property of Mr. Smith his Father late brewer there.

" These particulars were given to me by the present
James Harrison, who always considered his grandfather as
the dupe of his more cunning brother as to the manage-
ment of their many concerns.

(Signed) W. S. Heselden, 1828."

In estimating these remarks we must remember that
this document was written more than sixty years after the
death of James. It is quite natural that James in their
earlier days should have assisted his brother John in his
work and studies, and might reasonably have expected some
remuneration for his labors when John obtained the
reward. And there is no evidence to prove that he was
not remembered and rewarded by John. But when the
final payment was made, James had been dead ten years,
and the document of Mr. Heselden shows that he had not
altogether forgotten his brother James.

During the many years in which John was toiling in
London, and battling with the Board of Longitude and
growing in personal fame, James had the opportunity of
asserting his claims, if he felt that he had any. We can
understand that when John was growing famous and com-
paratively rich in London his brother might be envious,
and that village gossip might fan the flame of jealousy in
the mind of James. But we have no reason to accept the
dictum of a document written so long after, and to think
that James was the dupe of John, or that John in any way
injured James. We prefer to think that John Harrison
was as honorable, as he was confessedly industrious.

While John was at work in London, James appears as
a Bell Founder, both in Barrow and in Barton. The
Foundry in Barrow was near the Hall gates just within
the outer fence where the gardener's cottage now stands.
James, the grandson of the earlier James, had a Bell
Foundry at Barton in 1H2G. A great-grandson of " Longi-
tude Harrison," himself a John Harrison, is now living in
Hull. The family appears to be extinct in Barrow.
The only visible remains are in the sundial aforesaid, and

the name which appears on church bells in various places.
I met with it at Masham, in'Yorkshire, where the six bells
bear the inscription, " John Harrison, Bell Founder, 176G."
The bells also of Sutton Church, near Hull, were made by
James Harrison.

" Seest thou a man that is diligent in his business, he
shall stand before kings, he shall not- stand before mean
men." John Harrison actually did " stand before "
George III.

(Sa^etfe.

Bankruptcy Record.

Dickinson, William Eichard, 20, Manchester Eoad, Burnley,
and Dickinson, Charles George, 19, Carr Road, and 26,
Manchester Road, Nelson, formerly trading as W. and C.
Dickinson, 20, Manchester Road, Burnley, and 26, Man-
chester Road, Nelson, Watchmakers, Gold and Silver
smiths, and Jewelers. First Meeting: Dec. 17. Public
Examination : Court House, Burnley, Jan. 7.

GkaysoN, F. (Grayson, B., and Son), 16, Garden Street, and 19,
Havelock Street, Sheffield, Electro-Plate Manufacturer.

List of Creditors —

£ s. d.

Burslem 10 12 4

Sheffield 13 11 9

1,294 15 3

13 14 10

88 6 8

34 3 3

Stoke-on-Trent 42 11 2

Stourbridge 20 13 2

Tunstall 12 1 2

Wood, W., and Co.
Dodworth, M., and Son ...
Dodworth, M. (Trustees of)
Gladwin, B.

Ryland, Limited

Tucker, G., and Co.
Ridgeways, —
Castry and Gee ...
Brownhills Pottery Co. ...

(Total estimated amount — .£1,630 19s. 9d.)

Fully Secured Creditors.

Beardshaws, — (Exors. of) ... Sheffield 2,717 9 9

(Estimated value of security, £8,850.)

Partly Secured Creditors.

Bankers' Claims ... ... •■• 133 2 9

(Estimated value of security, £100.)

Preferential Creditors 12 6 5

Isaacs, E., and Wulfson, A. (English Optic Co.), 35, Hatton
Garden, London, Opticians.

List of Creditors —

Isaacs, L., and Co.
Laurent, — ■
Nitsche and Gunter
Rackow, H.
De Woolfson, J. G.

Aston, T

Davis, O. ...
Guillaume, J.

Prost, Z

Cohn, H

Jauvier, — ...
Touriner, E.
Courlander, N.

£ s. d.

London 40 0 0

54 0 0

58 0 0

98 0 0

100 0 0

.. Birmingham 29 0 O

49 7 11

Jura 20 0 0

.. La Rousses 180 0 0

Morez 48 10 O

48 0 0

30 0 0

.. Richmond 145 0 0

(Total estimated amount - £944 4s. 7d.)

Liabilities on bills 193 3 0

(Of which £41 6s. 6d. is expected to rank.)
Preferential Creditor 15 0 0

Kleizee, Anthony, 55. Oxford Road, Reading, Berks, Watch
and Clock Maker. First Meeting : Dec. 21. Public Ex-
amination : Assize Courts, Reading, Jan. 14, 1892.

11(>

THE WATCHMAKER, JEWELER AND SILVERSMITH.

[January 1, 1892.

Moulson, I-'., late Jeweler,

Street, Birmingham.
List of ( Creditors —

Girod Bros.

Moulson. M. E.
Eandle, --

Twine. -

"West wood, — ...
Stbawbadm, Maurice, ]4,

and 33, Tenby Street
List of Creditors —

Moyer and Fulda
Appleby, A., and Co....
Westwood, C, and Sons
Kemp, A., and Son ...
Levy, D.
Lyon, S.
Hawley and Son

Tenby Street, North, now 5, Belgraye

£ s. d.

... Birmingham 40 0 0

„ 150 0 0

„ 10 17 6

„ 19 5 0

„ 13 8 0

Reservoir Retreat, Reservoir Road,
Birmingham, Jeweler.

£ s. d.

London 82 9 0

... Birmingham 225 7 3

„ 120 6 9

„ 30 10 2

„ 68 8 6

„ 22 0 0

Coventry 20 9 0

Taffindee, Frank, 40, High Street, Rotherham, York, Watch-
maker and Jeweler. Adjudication : Nov. 26. First Meeting :
Dec. 23. Public Examination : County Court, Sheffield,
Jan. 7.

Notices to Creditors.

Hettish, Gordon, 14, Magdalen Street, Exeter, Watchmaker
and Jeweler. First and final dividend of 3s. 4d.

Gardner, William Henry Buckby, 5, Russell Terrace, Old
Allesby Road, Coventry, Watch Manufacturer. Supplemen-
tary dividend of l^d.

Partnerships Dissolved.
Richardson, William, and Sons, 56, South Bridge, Edinburgh,
Silversmiths and Silver-Plate Merchants. Nov. 24. Debts
by William Imrie Richardson, who continues under the
same style.

Priestley and Shaw, 4, Carver Lane, Sheffield, Silver and
Electro-Plate Manufacturers. Nov. 24. Debts by Arthur
Priestley, who continues on his own account.

Phillips, Henry (Henry Phillips and George Frederick Phillips),
24, Great Hampton Street, Birmingham, Jewelers. Debts
by G. F. Phillips, who continues under the same style.

LETTERS TO THE EDITOR.

THE CERTIFICATE OF THE BRITISH HORO-

LOGICAL INSTITUTE.

To tlw Editor of The Watchmaker, Jeweler and

Silversmith.

Sir, — 1 send you quotations from a bill (the original of
which I have enclosed) circulated by an individual who
advertises himself as the holder of the certificate of the
above institution, and attaches the letters M. B.H.I, to his
name. This certificate is supposed to be a guarantee that
the holder is a qualified workman, but everyone who knows
what work is, knows also that no workman worthy of the
name in a small degree would stoop to contract on such
terms, for there can be no other outcome than "scamping,"
and a system of " scamping." A genuine certificate is an
excellent and desirable thing, but, like every good thing, when
it is abused it becomes an equal power for mischief. If a
practical examination were connected with the technical
examination of the City and Guilds of London Institute,
on the lines on which that Institution conducts practical
examinations in other subjects, such a test could be made
an efficient one and would guarantee the competency of the
holder.

The following are extracts from the bill referred to : —
Founded 1H58.

This certifies that S — W — has passed a watch-repair-
ing examination of the British Horological Institute, and
has a good knowledge of depths, the verge, horizontal and

lever escapements, and keyless mechanism, with corres-
ponding practical ability.

Grimthorp, President.

D. Buckney, Chairman of the Council.

F. J. Britton, Secretary.

PRICE LIST.

Balance-stall' and cleaned
Cylinder and cleaned
Geneva watch cleaned ...
Lever watches cleaned ...

A Single Watch at Wholesale Price.
Ladies' silver Geneva Watches...
English Lever Watches

Extract from local press: — "The certificate alluded to
has been granted to Mr. W — by the British Horological
Institute, which certifies the holder of it to be practical and
competent in all the branches of watchmaking and repair-
ing. We understand it is the only certificate of this
kind granted in B — ."

Surely, sir, there will be great differences of opinion
as to the value of this certificate in the face of the accom-
panying facts. — I am, sir, your obedient servant,

J. Herrmann.

Readers will fully appreciate the importance of the
questions raised by our esteemed correspondent. Mr. Herr-
mann is too widely known throughout the Trade to re-
quire any introduction. Oddly enough, in looking over
this week s Hospital Gazette, we find a similar wail going up
from a doctor who says an M.D. and L.R.C.S., with
numerous other qualifications, all of which ought to com-
mand at least two guineas a visit, has opened a place
close by him, where he cheaply and nastily advertises his
highly- qualified "advice and medicine, sixpence." That
this man is all he claims to be is easily proved by reference
to the register, and although it is extremely humiliating,
both to himself and the profession, neither the hospitals
where he gained his instruction, nor his examiners, can
feel responsible for the use to which .he puts his talents
after those bodies have ceased their connection with him.
Nor do we see that the Horological Institute can do any-
thing in the matter mentioned by Mr. Herrmann. Doubt-
less every member of the institute is disgusted and
humiliated by such an advertisement, but they can do no
more in such a case than could the committee of the City
and Guilds Institute. There is, however, no denying that
advertising such prices as those alluded to must have a
baneful effect upon the Trade at large, which is the very
opposite of the function of the Horological Institute ; and
the Institute should be able to prevent any man who carries
on practices detrimental to the Trade giving weight to
such practices by the use of " M. B.H.I." after his name. —

Ed.

kmmU TO gORREgfOMDENTS.

Old Troy. — The man who says the Weights and
Measures Act of 1878 has anything to do with penny
weights in connection with gold, save that it rendered them
illegal, does not know what he is talking about. Sec. 20
states that "All articles sold by weight shall be sold by
Avoirdupois Weight ; except that gold, silver, platinum,
diamonds, and other precious stones, which may be sold
by the ounce Troy, or decimal parts of such ounce, and all
such contracts, bargains, sales and dealings in relation
thereto shall be deemed to be made and had by such
weight, and when so made shall be valid.

Specs. — We should advise you to send to Messrs.
Churchill, New Burlington Street, W., for their catalogue,
which will give you a list of books suitable for the purpose
you require.

%$e

^atclpi^aker, $eWel<dT

jSil^crsix^itl^.

Edited by W. J. LEWIS ABBOTT, F.G.S.

Entered at Stationers' Hall.]

• [Registered for Transmission Abroad.

Vol. XVII.— No. 8.]

FEBBUABY 1, 1892.

r Subscription, 5s. 1 Post

L per Annum. I Free.

Single Copies, 6d.

Ufie ©eafft of f£e Sufce cf

d>larence.

T first thought the death of a Prince might
not appear a proper suhject for a trade
journal. Nor, indeed, couid its claims be
legitimately maintained by most journals,
whose limited province is matters which
concern a special industry. But the fact
is, the jewelry trade in many respects is quite different from
every other. It matters but little what the ideas in the
past have been concerning gems : — thus in Burton's
' ' Anatomy of Melancholy ' ' Kenodeus admires precious
stones because they adorn king's crowns, grace the fingers,
enrich our household stuff, defend us from enchantments,
preserve health, cure diseases, drive away grief and cares,
and exhilarate the mind. But no admirer of gems to-day
would dare to advance the six latter claims, although it
was for these and similar virtues that they were formerly
so esteemed ; and perhaps there is only a smattering of
truth in what Bacon said of them, "Many things operate
upon the spirits of man by secret sympathy and antipathy,"
or we may even scorn De Boot, who says, " In good sooth
I am fain to confess that supernatural effects are after this
fashion, God having permitted that it should be so. But,
as I have already said, this is done by evil spirits, who take
up their abode in the substance of the precious stones."

But whatever the history of the past, jewels have long
been recognised as the emblem of affluence and position,
so that the trade has naturally become more or less asso-
ciated and identified with the heads of society; and the life,
actions, and caprices of the leaders of fashion, not only
materially influence, but may make or blight an industry,
which to-day is represented by hundreds of millions ster-
ling. No other trade lies so much at the mercy of its
autocratic heads — a mere objectless whim, fancy or caprice,
may transform the value of a lump of clay under certain
conditions into a nation's ransom ; and to obey the dictates
of fashion many an otherwise pure and unsullied nature will
stoop to the lowest, meanest, and most horrible crimes !
With almost every other commodity in life, " time and

materials ' ' form an extremely important element ; but with
the gems of the hour these are altogether ignored — their value
is, indeed, what they will bring, and this is directly propor-
tional to the patronage bestowed upon them by the despots
of the world we call fashion. That it is not associated
with any particular beauty or rarity becomes evident from
the fact that an absolutely colorless diamond may be far
less brilliant than one that draws a little color, compared
with whose fiery splendor it may be cold and lifeless, yet
fashion decrees that "white" is the herald of wealth!
Nor, indeed, can it be rarity, for there are numerous things
more rare than white diamonds — however, the leaders
decree and all obey !

We are therefore led to realize what important positions
in life are those held by the directors of fashion. We know
that there are many who, in looking back upon the natural
history of chiefs and kings — seeing the important positions
they occupied in bygone days, when the chief occupation
of every band of human beings was waring with its
fellows — are inclined to regard them more as disused
structures and relics of days that have past, than as any
organic part of the life of to-day. But whatever may be
one's ideas of the Divine Right of Kings, all must admit
that the present state of society was not the work of a
minute; and it is a well-known law of evolution that
structures must modify with the change of environment
if they survive ; and so it comes to pass that with the
alterations in society the office and function of those at the
head of a nation must necessarily alter too. But so long
as there are those to govern who are intellectually behind
ourselves, at least so long will it be necessary to have a
titular head of the nation ; and although he may not lead
us forth sword in hand, example may be mightier than the
sword. Seeing, then, that it is our fortune to be so associated
with the highest positions in the nation, in all the grandeur
of their displays, flattered as we are by the fact that our pro-
ductions are made the mouthpieces of their greatness, can
we possibly grow fat on their magnificence and prosperity
without feeling their reverses ? If we think so, no better
argument could be adduced to the contrary than that
offered by the melancholy death of the one who might
have been our future king — he to whom all eyes were

1 IS

THE WATCHMAKER, JEWELER AND SILVERSMITH.

[February 1, 1892.

directed, alter a year beset with natural adversities.
He was; the sun just rising over our horizon that was to
lighten and cheer us. From the midst of our city, from the
far ends of our possessions, money was being got together,
the major part of which would have passed through the
hands of our trade. Conscious of these facts, the whole in-
dustry was bestirring itself; many magnificent specimens of
modern art were beiug projected ; in many cases thousands
of pounds were being put into various kinds of gem orna-
ments, and in several others orders amounting to many
thousands of pounds were actually given. But by a fell
reversion of what appeared a law of nature, the rising sun
sank back, leaving, indeed, behind it " a darkness that could
be felt." The offspring of our hope is gone, and instead
of the subjective business which would have had its origin
in the actions of her who might have been our future
Queen, all jewelry is banished from sight, and is not to be
thought of for an indefinite period, during which time we
cannot but ask : What is to be done with trade ?

to realise a fortune when perhaps scores or even hundreds
of feet of stuff have to be removed to get at it. We have
received further communications from those we believe
know the most about these deposits, and we are extremely
sorry to say we are by no means so sanguine as those who
have drawn up the reports.

(Ufte M oaf ana ^appftireA anil

WESSRS. STREETER AND MALLABY-DEELEY
xXi have returned from their prospecting on the
banks of the Missouri, and, as might be ex-
pected, have come back, like the Queen of Sheba, to find
even greater wonders than have been told. Their report
is most interesting, and to those who, like ourselves,
have watched the history of this locality is also most
puzzling. Firstly, we cannot understand why the obtain-
ing of the services of Mr. Yerrington as an independent
expert, with a character from American jewelers, is treated
as such a happy accident, considering Mr. Y.'s name in
connection with this property. Nor can we see on what
grounds they so firmly believe they have the monopoly of
the gem - bearing lands, seeing that the report admits
they " probably cover ten square miles." This leads us
to ask the question why this particular spot in Montana is
called " mines " ? When the gravel and clay banks of the
Thames, upon which some of our villages are built, and
which carry mammalian remains, can be called " bone-
caves," then can we call the similar deposits of. the
Missouri, " y em -mines." We should also like to know
what kind of "sapphires" are the 20,000 carats quoted,
75 per cent of which is said to be " imperfectly crystallized
corundums." We should like to know how a sapphire can
be imperfectly crystallized corundum.

How much more delighted we should have been if the
travellers had been able to bring back specimens of the
true color sapphire or ruby, instead of which one of the
directors is reported by an American Jewelers' paper to
admit that they had not found 'a true color sapphire.

When a certain gentleman was trying to form a company
to work these Montana deposits he was showing a piece of
what was said to be the matrix of these gems. It was a
dull grey trachyte carrying corundum. Now we are told
that the matrix is a mica-trap, and we are anxious to know
which is right. In these reports, too, the gold element is
brought very much to the front, and very cleverly put, for
it looks as if the deposit was going to yield 8J- oz. of the
precious metal to the ton. But when we examine
more closely the facts are altogether different. It
•appears that resting upon the bed rock there is a
layer measured by inches, which, when ten tons are
concentrated down to one ton, yields 3| ozs., or in other
words about 3 dwt. to the ton, a quantity in which we fail

©^ftaf S^irminglpaiTL \fo ©01 ng for
Iper d)f\icfl&.

THE Committee of the Jewelers' Technical School have
issued a special circular, giving details of the prizes
open for competition among the students. The total
amount is nearly thirty pounds, and opportunities are
given to almost every section of work, both making and
ornamentation. The following are the prizes for 1891-2 : —

Jewelers' Association Prizes. — £2 10s. for the best
wrought and decorative form, suitable for lid of jewel or
presentation casket ; £2 10s. for the best circular plaque,
in repoussee ; £2 10s. for the best engraved panel or plaque.

Mr. Fridlander's Prizes. — £2 for the best constructed
piece in two planes ; £1 for the second ; 10s. for the third
best piece. £1 for the best constructed model of insect or
butterfly ; 10s. for the second best specimen. £5, atten-
dance prizes, for students in technical school, in amounts
to be decided by the committee.

Mr. H. Davis's Prizes. — £1 Is. for the best repoussee
panel ; 10s. 6d. for the second best panel. £1 Is. for the
best engraved plate ; 10s. 6d. for the second best specimen.
£1 Is. for the best enamelled plate, cloisonne or champ
leve ; 10s. 6d. for the second best example ; 10s. 6d. for
the best enamelled plate.

Mr. B. J. Round's Prize. — £2 2s. for the best watch-
case, decorated in cloisonne enamel.

Prizes offered by the Operative Jewelers' Trade Society. —
£1 Is. for the best surface chasing of casting of an organic
form ; 15s. for the second best example ; 6s. for the third
example.

In reference to the Jewelers' Art School in Vittoria Street,
we might call special attention to the fact that " all young
persons of both sexes are eligible, whether employed in offices
or workshops." Further, we are not quite sure if the
proper relations of the Art and Technical Schools are fully
understood. Let us explain, therefore, that the Jewelers'
Art School is a branch of the Birmingham Municipal
School of Art, the management resting principally with the
City School of Art Committee, although the Committee of
the Jewelers' Association have a certain share in its
management. It is essentially a municipal and not a local
institution.

The technical classes, however, are an extension of the
School of Art idea, and are entirely under the control of
the Jewelers' Association, being carried on in separate
rooms, rented for the purpose from the City authorities.
These rooms are well fitted up with the necessary tools and
apparatus for carrying on the work of jewelry making, the
whole plant belonging to, and the teachers being provided
by, the Trade Association. It is in this idea of real tech-
nical instruction, as distinct from mere art culture, that
the chief interest of the experiment rests. It is at present
the first and only attempt in Birmingham on the part of
any trade to provide such instruction for its learners. In
the technical classes during the present term, students
will be prepared for the Technological Examinations of the
City and Guilds of London Institute to be held in May
next. The fact of having passed these examinations will
undoubtedly be of immense advantage to the future work-
men. In the course of a little while employers will learn
to look for, and to appreciate, these signs of culture when
engaging workmen. We trust our Birmingham artisans
will be ready to avail themselves of the opportunities for
study thus offered.

February 1, 1892.]

THE WATCHMAKER, JEWELER AND SILVERSMITH.

149

©eterrru native ^Jeinmofoav.

THE PLEOCHROISM OF GEMS.

By the Editor.

(Continued from page 129.)

will call the ordinary and
In this revolution the rays
vertical, and four times
at every other angle
once). We now place
the wax, which holds it

The Monochroism of thr Spinel.

N our last article we observed that upon
placing our eye to the eye-piece we saw not
one image of the square aperture, but
two. Turning the eye-piece round we see
one of these rays behaving in an ordinary
manner and remains practically still, but the
other behaves in an extraordinary manner and revolves
round its fellow. These we
extraordinary rays respectively.
are twice horizontal, twice
diagonal (and necessarily
in relation to a circle,
the edge of the spinel in
firmly. Looking through the eye-piece it is not quite so
clear and defined as it might be, so we draw out the tube a
little, and focus it up till we can see every defect in the
stone. Both the squares are now of the same uniform hue,
very similar to the appearance of the gem to the naked eye
when held up to the light. It is true there is a little fringe
of color towards the edge, but of that we need take no notice
now, although we shall have more to say about it later on ;
practically they are both exactly of the same red hue, nor
does the turn of the eye-piece and the causing of the two
rays to revolve round each other produce any visible change
of hue. Some facets, it is true, are far more illuminated
in certain positions than others, but for all that the hue
remains practically constant. If we move the milled head
F so as to turn the stone upon its axis, there is no further
alteration of the hue. We have now looked through the
stone in every position in the direction of two of its axes ;
so that if we take it off the wax, and turn it round 90°
along the girdle, and stick it on again and repeat the opera-
tion, we shall have looked through the stone in every
possible direction, if we further revolve the stage (C round
B) ; but still find this absolute monochroism, we should
know it is not a ruby.

The Diohroism of the Ruby.

Seeing that the above spinel was monochroie (in other
words, that turning it in any direction, and viewing it
through every axis we fail to get a second color), let us
look at the ruby alluded to already. Placing it by its
girdle in the wax, and viewing it at a slight angle to the
table, we are struck at a glance by the entire dissimilarity of
aspect compared with the spinel. Instead of that bright
glassy hard monochroie picture we notice a rich softness
of hues, one square being a rich soft aurora red, the
other far more violet in appearance, a hue which we
should term a carmine red. We are thus introduced to
the phenomena of dichroism, or the exhibition of two
squares of different hues, which are spoken of as the twin
colors, or twin hues. The twin colors of a fine " pigeon's
blood " ruby, then, are aurora red and carmine red. Re-
placing this ruby by another, which "draws" a little more,
but is nevertheless a very fine stone, we are surprised to
find that one square has almost lost its claim to red, be-
coming a dirty pinkish straw, and the other has become
correspondingly darker, being in fact almost a pure
mauve.

During the whole of these operations the indicator of the
eye-piece A has stood at zero of the scale on B, which means
that the two squares have stood horizontally. Upon
rotating the eye-piece, we find that the squares revolve
round each other, exactly the same as they did when we

placed the spinel upon the stage-arm ; but we notice a
great difference, however, for as the two rays revolve round
each other they change colors, the aurora becomes carmine,
and vice versa, twice during each revolution. Now a little
consideration will show that as each square alters its hue,
and passes into that of its companion four times during a
revolution, it is clear that there are four positions where
each square will be a mixture of half-and-half of each hue,
as it were, so that both squares will then be the same hue,
and will in fact be monochroie. It therefore follows that
it is absolutely necessary to revolve the eye-piece when we
see the two squares of the same hue, before we can
say for a positive fact that the gem is monochroie.

There is yet another set of motions to be dealt with.
Starting with the prism at zero, we see one square aurora,
and the other carmine red ; but if we turn the stage bodily
(C upon D) we see a similarity of alternate changing of
colors, and concomitant monochroism four times in each
revolution. Let us imagine the twin colors standing
parallel, when the stage-arm carrying the gems stand also
at zero or parallel to the square. Upon turning the stage
to 45 degrees with the squares, dichroism is no longer
presented but absolute monochroism.

I have several times seen men who pose as experts take

up a fine ruby in the corn-tongs and place it in this last-
named position over the square. Then, because they got
monochroism, they have immediately dropped the gem and
pronounced it a spinel! It is these facts, amongst others,
that have led me to make the improvements in the
instrument.

So far, then, we have seen that certain gems are mono-
chroie, i.e., that they exhibit practically one hue, and that
others exhibit two or more hues (when they are known as
dichroic and pleochroic respectively). We have also seen
that, great as these distinguishing characteristics are, they
can be emphasised and critically tested by the use of the
dichroscope. By-and-bye, when we have been educated by
the use of this invaluable little instrument, we shall often
be able to discern dichroism without it. It would, perhaps,
be a very great difficulty to make the trade realise the im-
portance of this, even so far as we have already gone ; but
when we remember that the spinel was never separated
from the ruby till the time of Romily de Lisle (so that
most of the "historic rubies" are probably spinels) its
value must force itself upon one. Several of the " historic
rubies ' ' that were sold at the last sale of the French Court
•Jewels were only spinels ; and I have also seen some

150

THE WATCHMAKER, JEWELER AND SILVERSMITH.

[February 1, 1892.

"historic" Indian •• rubies " that are not corundum at all.
But before we can understand these phenomena, or
employ them intellectually or successfully, it is necessary
that we should understand their raison d'etre, and the nature
of the laws by which they operate. In the months of
August and September, 1890, we alluded to the optical
laws, in virtue of which these phenomena exist ; but as we
have since tben considerably increased our subscription
list, it may be as well to disregard a little repetition, in order
that all our readers should more fully understand this
subject.

Thk Nature and Properties of Light and Color.
First of all it is necessary that we should get some clear
idea of the theory of light that will enable us to under-
stand all the phenomena of color with which we meet,
whether they be simple or complex. Now, as a matter of
fact, there is no such thing as color, objectively considered.
It is essentially a subjective sensation, analogous in many
respects to hearing and temperature-feeling. And, further,
when we speak of color we often mean two very
dissimilar things — we sometimes mean the impressions
made upon our consciousness by certain phenomena, and
sometimes the great physical agent with which those im-
pressions originate. Obviously it is the latter with which
we have now to deal. This great physical agent we call
the luminiferous ether, which we believe is so extensive as
to fill interstellar space, and yet so divisible as to penetrate
between the very molecules of matter. We regard light as
the result of impressions upon our retina of the almost
infiuitely quick vibrations of this ether. Now there are
numerous beautiful and elaborate methods by which these
undulations can be measured, both in length and
velocity. Into this, of course, we need not enter ;
suffice to say that these ether waves reach hundreds of
billions in a second.* But what we are most concerned
with are the facts that the vibrations take place at right
angles to the direction of the ray, vibrating in all
azimuths, and that the ray always travels in a straight
line, so long as the media through which it passes are of
the same density. Before proceeding further, it may,
perhaps, be as well to say a word or two more about
vibrations in all azimuths. If we take a long rope, fixed
at one end, and shake it vertically at the other, the rope
is thrown into a set of waves of motion, and the motion
originated at one end is conveyed to the other in a set of
undulations vibrating in a single (vertical) plane. Now,
although the motion has been transmitted, it is certain
that the physical agent which transmitted it — viz., the
particles of the rope — are in the same position afterwards
as before the operation; nothing travelled save the waves of
motion, all of which vibrated in a vertical plane. Imagine
now a ray of light, composed not only of vertical waves,
but of waves vibrating in every direction at right angles to
the line of propagation. We may, indeed, conceive others
as varying elipses, and find that when both axes are
equal they are circular ; when the vertical axis becomes
infinity, the vibrations are vertical ; and when the hori-
zontal axis becomes infinity, they become horizontal. Now
when such a complex motion as this impinges upon an
object, it is no more than we should expect that it should
be greatly modified by the nature of that object. Let us
follow what happens in such cases under various conditions.
First, let us see what takes place when the object is what
we call transparent and colored. Now when a ray of
ordinary light strikes such an object, that ray is split up
into several parts — one part of it is absorbed by the article,
another passes through it, another is reflected, partly under
laws explained in Vol. XVI., page 30, and partly generally
diffused. It is by this latter that we see the object. If we
remember that white light is composed of what we call
every color, it soon becomes evident, as before explained,

* Vide the Horological Journal, vol. xxxiii., p. 50.

that, in reality, things are the very opposite color to what
we call them. Thus, if we take a certain portion of a ray
of white light — say, red — that which is left behind is its
complementary color, or white minus red. Now, white
in in us red is green ; and to prove this we have only, first,
to split up a white ray into red and green, then re-combine
them, and we should get white. It therefore follows that
if an emerald looks green because it absorbs part of the
white light, and transmits the other part which we call
green, it must necessarily be red ! Probably, the first
questions that will here suggest themselves are : Are there
any physical peculiarities in gems that will in any way
modify this selective absorption ? Have crystalline forms
anything to do with it, and, if so, what ? As we proceed
to inquiry, we shall find they have all to do Avith it ; but
this must be reserved for a future occasion.
(To be continued.')

flotes /Ibout Jou/p.

There is an absolute concurrency of opinion
sm-vovin" amongst aU thoughtful and observing business
ihePast" men, that when one bears in mind the great
Xear* number of drawbacks which presented them-
selves during 1891, the result of the year's
business is something for which to be more than thankful.
At no one period during the whole year was the horizon
clear ; when there was not one thing there was another.
Yet despite all this, money was cheap, and always plentiful
in the country. There were no large amounts obtained
by risky speculation, which money is usually just as
quickly spent ; and often the first to get the benefit of it is
the jeweler. The trade was all good, steady, genuine

business.

* * *

So far as we are able to gather, the same

Christmas remarks apply to the Christmas trade. There

Trade. wag not]aing which ereated a furore like there

has been sometimes at Christmas, but there

was a fair share of good, genuine, steady trade ; and in

the absence of anything being en tout rage, it became

possible to move many pieces of stock that are vulgarly

called " old pals."

* * *

Gorgeous as are the jeweled butterflies

Butterflies (especially some of them when colored stones

i>r""'o« are introduced), they appear to be threatened

FiiJs. by dragon flies, which now are at least as

much in requisition as the former, while many

houses find them in possession of the field. After all, the

butterfly is rather heavy perhaps, and the lightness of the

drao-on flv suggests to many far more grace and elegance.

* * *

The demand for turquoise is still increasing ;

there is now no stock of any importance that

T"ii,tiic"'C has not got a number of them. There have

increase. |Deen macie up arid sold a number of fine

turquoise and diamond festoons and drop

necklets, and numerous specimens were being set up with

the idea of forming one or more of the many presents to the

Royal pair whose marriage would have had such an

influence upon trade in general.

* * *

During the fore part of the month very many
t he Sad of the large houses were extremely busy in pre-
change. parjng for j^e great event of the year. Every-
thing fine was being brought to daylight, and
with the grand stones now in the Trade, some matchless
specimens of the Jeweler's Art would have resulted. But
alas ! the great monster that is claiming some of the
greatest and best men of to-day numbers a central figure
amongst its victims ; and business is at a standstill.

February 1, 1892.]

THE WATCHMAKER, JEWELER AND SILVERSMITH.

151

We thought we had got to the end of the tether
silver-ware of the uses to which articles of silver could be

Crowing-. pU^ j^ we £Q(j we jlaye nQ^ an(j we are now

wondering why we did not think of a charming
and useful set that is now selling well, long ago. It is a
bath-room set, consisting of sponge, brush, soap and puff
boxes, glass bottle and silver beakers. Altogether it makes
a very handsome set. Sometimes shaving utensils are
added in the shape of shaving-mug, with lather-pot fitting
in above the water, silver shaving-brush and razor-box.
Some sets are lady's, and others bachelor's.
** * #

Although the spoon fad cannot be said to have
The Spoon laid hold of the community as it did our
.Fa«i. American cousins, with whom it originated, or
even perhaps as much as it has on the
Parisians, still, after the turn of the tide, our manufacturers
put in some very fine pieces of work, many of which are
finding ready sales. There can be no denying that a
great change has come over the silver productions during
the last few years. Probably it is to be accounted for by
the fact that silver jewelry had so good a run for such a
long time, and when it waned the jeweler turned his light
artistic hand to work which previously had been the mono-
poly of the more solid heavy-handed silversmith. Several
of our American subscribers have asked us for the addresses
of spoon makers in this country.

Qotitytry f.0^5.

tCCORDING to the recently published report, the
Coventry Co-operative Watch Manufacturing Society,
which was established in 1877 by a few working
men, has now a membership of 103. Some alterations
have been made in the rules, and interest on capital is now
limited to 5 per cent., and, after paying 2 J per cent, of
profit to "Educational Fund," the remainder is divided
equally between labor and custom. The governing body
is a committee consisting almost entirely of practical
watchmakers. The society makes steady progress, and
finds much support amongst the Co-operative stores, who
are their agents. The returns show that last year, 1890,
the share capital of the society was £1,785 14s. 10d., and
loan capital £101 lis. 6d. The reserve fund is now £633.
The trade for the year amounted to £4,518, which, after
paying interest on capital, showed a profit of £222. The
workers' share of the profit was at the rate of a shilling in
the pound on wages. All profits, instead of being paid
out, are turned into transferable shares. The society,
along with other manufacturers in Coventry, has taken
steps to meet the new conditions in the trade, and has put
£100 towards a joint manufactory for making " watch move-
ments," and thus has improved its capacity for turning out
large quantities of reliable work. The society is now
making a speciality of their f-plate levers, with chrono-
meter balance, £3 16s.

n7H0SE who lay themselves out specially for the supply

^J® of prizes should keep their eye upon the Royal

Agricultural Society's Show to be held at Warwick

next summer, when the prizes will amount to over £5,000.

fN advance of 15 per cent, has just taken place in the
price of fusee chains with the probability of a still
further advance shortly. Watch glasses have risen
in price from 80 to 140 per cent, lately, and the price of
pendulum springs has also gone up considerably. Our
esteemed contemporary, the Coventry Herald, very sugges-
tively remarks, as all these materials are supplied from
abroad, the necessity is being enforced upon the trade of
manufacturing them more largely in this country, and I
hope we shall live to see it, which I suppose is equivalent to
saying — long life to us.

JJl R. H. ABELL, a watchmaker, who served his
Ls\. apprenticeship at Messrs. Rotherhams, Coventry,
and now of 80, High Street, Ventnor, Isle of
Wight, two years ago presented to the town of Ventnor
a public clock, which was placed upon the pier. At the
last meeting of the Ventnor Local Board a letter was read
from him asking permission to take down the clock and
clean it, in accordance with the terms of his agreement,
free of expense. Permission was granted, and several
members spoke in high praise of Mr. Abell as a public
benefactor.

TTTHE Coventry Cycle Manufacturers' Trade Pro-
e)Jfe tection Association. — On the f 2th ult.' the members
of the above association dined together at the King's
Head Hotel, under the presidency of the Mayor, Mr. G.
Singer. Amongst those present were Mr. Alderman C. J.
Hill (director of the Coventry Machinist Company,
Limited), Mr. W. H. Herbert (Premier Cycle Company,
Limited), Mr. Alderman Dalton and Mr. C. D. Turrall
(Messrs. Taylor, Cooper, and Bednell, Limited), Mr. J.
Thomas and Mr. J. Bayliss (Messrs. Bayliss, Thomas, and
Co.), Mr. J. K. Starley, Mr. C. A. Palmer (St. George's
Engineering Company, Limited), Mr. S. Gorton, Mr. B.
Gorton, and Dr. C. W. Iliffe (The Quinton Cycle Company,
Limited), Mr. W. Calcott (Messrs. Calcott Bros, and West),
Mr. W. J. Grinyer (Coventry Machinist Company, Limited),
Mr. Edward Mushing (Centaur Cycle Company), Mr.
Parkyn and Mr. J. Marston (Wolverhampton), Mr.
Cartwright (Tower Cycle Company), Mr. Bowden
(Raleigh Cycle Company), Mr. Hazlewood (Warman and
Hazlewood, Limited), Mr. Walter Phillips and Mr. J.
Gutteridge (Rudge Cycle Company, Limited), Mr. M. D.
Rucker (Humber and Co., Limited), Mr. Townend
(Townend Bros., Limited), Mr. Richard Green (Lion
Cycle Company), Mr. Morris (William Andrews, Limited),
Mr. H. S. Norton (Premier Cycle Company), Mr. F. A.
Bullock (secretary to the Association). — The loyal toasts
were given by the Chairman.— The Chairman afterwards
proposed " Success to the Association." — This was
responded to by Mr. Alderman Dalton. — A musicnl
programme was gone through, contributed to by Mr. M.
D. Rucker (London), Mr. Richard Green (Birmingham),
Mr. H. J. Grinyer, Mr. Grinyer, jun., and others.

,HAT a Protective Association might do. — -We
have known several shop robberies prevented and
thieves captured by the use of the telephone. Often
a suspicious character comes in, and by extra carefulness
and watchfulness, which the thief can see displayed, he de-
parts without attempting a robbery. We have even known
cases where the thief has known that he was being watched,
and on departing has politely said, "Better luck next
time ! " If descriptions of such a character were imme-
diately telephoned round he would be sure to be caught
the next place he visited. A similar use of the telephone
has recently been made the means of capturing a swindler
who has been victimising the Parisian jewelers. A well-
dressed man entered the shop of a well-known jeweler,
inspected many of the articles, and some time after his
departure it was found that he had taken a diamond ring,
a pin, and a watch chain. It was too late to give the
alarm, so the jeweler contented himself with sending a
description of the thief to his fellow tradesmen. Shortly
after he received a telephonic message to say that a
person answering the description of the thief was at that
moment in the sender's shop in the Rue St. Sauveur. He
hurried off and was in time to catch his man, who,
on finding he was recognised, tried to bolt, but was
detained by the assistants and given in charge. At the
police-station he gave .his name as Filip Prolick, and
described himself as an Austrian, but refused to give his
address.

152

THE WATCHMAKER, JEWELER AND SILVERSMITH.

[February 1, 1892.

fleoD (J/e-ar iJe^fbiHe^ at ffte (gifoclC
anil ©\f/a.\Lcfi.ma&er&' eK^vfum.

HE New Year, 1892, festivities at the Clock
and Watchmakers' Asylum, New Southgate,
were of more than ordinary importance and
enjoyment. In addition to the extra supply
of "the good things of time and sense," it
was the day appointed for the unveiling of
the enlarged photograph of the founder of
the institution, the late Mr. W. Rowlands. This was a
present of the enthusiastic treasurer, Mr. P. Woodman,
who was amongst the most delighted of the company pre-
sent. It was altogether one of the most enjoyable evenings
for the inmates, about forty out of the forty-two in the in-
stitution being well enough to participate in the festivities
of the company, while the one or two not well enough to
join the happy throng were of course administered to
privately. The proceedings commenced with a " high tea,"
served in the comfortable board-room of the institution, at
which most of the members of the committee, with their
families, were present. Mr. T. Baxter, the chairman of
the committee, and founder of the feast — for he it was who
bore the whole of the expenses — occupied the chair, and
near him sat two of the trustees, Mr. George Moore and
Mr. E. J. Thompson. That the meal was thoroughly
enjoyed by the old folk was plainly evidenced. All sorts
of eatables were provided, and hardly anything which
could tempt the aged inmates was lacking. There were
plenty of willing helpers, too, in the persons of the wives
and daughters of committee men, who spoke cheering
words to the old people as they helped them to the delicacies
provided. The average age of these old people is 73. They
reside in comfortable little houses, the eighteen married
couples occupying one each, and two widows living in each
of the other three, and in addition to this they are provided
with pensions — the males receiving £24, and the females
£15 annually — coals, gas, and medical attendance. After
tea there was a concert, when light refreshments were
placed on the tables, and those of the old men who cared
to smoke were provided with cigars. The songs were
interspersed with a few toasts, but care was taken that
the inmates should not be wearied by long speeches.
The principal toast was of course " Success to the In-
stitution." This was proposed in a few well-chosen
words by Mr. Baxter, who again occupied the chair. He
referred briefly to the great development of the institution
since its foundation in 1853, and expressed gratification at
the fact that the funds of the institution had been largely
benefited during the past twelve months by the individual
efforts of the persons interested in its work. Mr. G. Moore
and one of the inmates (Mr. Hammond) responded. The
former remarked that it was a source of great satisfaction
to the committee of management to be able to offer such
excellent homes as those provided by the institution to
aged members of their trade, who, through no fault of
their own, were in distressed circumstances ; and the latter
heartily thanked the committee and subscribers on behalf
of himself and his fellow inmates for the benefits conferred
upon them. The next toast was " The Health of the
Treasurer," which was again given from the chair. The
proposer of the toast alluded to Mr. Woodman's generosity
in presenting the institution with an enlarged photograph
of its founder, which, as chairman of the committee, he
formally handed over to the trustees. The portrait was
th3n unveiled, amid the cheers of those present, by Mr.
Moore and Mr. Thompson. The last mentioned gentle-
man made a speech at the conclusion of the ceremony, in
which he briefly traced the history of the institution since
its foundation. Although, he said, the gentleman whose
portrait they had just unveiled, and whose decease they all
lamented, was not amongst • the first few who took up
the idea of founding the institution, he could rightly be

described as the founder, for when he was approached by
Mr. G. Moore a few months after the idea was originated
in October, 1853, he threw his whole heart and soul into
the work from that time up till the time of his death.
This occurred in 1868, during which year Mr. Rowlands
was the master of the Clockmakers' Company. The first
report was dated 1856, and at that time the assistance
of the Goldsmiths' Company and the Clockmakers' Com-
pany— who were by far the largest subscribers in the
present day — had been secured, together with that of
many of the principal firms of the trade. They had then
something like £5,000 in hand, and then it was that the
two acres of ground on which the asylum stood were
purchased. The purchase money was £700, and the
vendor generously returned £100 of the money by way of
a donation. The purchase was effected chiefly through the
instrumentality of Mr. Wm. Rowlands, but for whose
efforts, in conjunction with those of Mr. G. Moore, the
institution would never, he believed, have been founded.

©Knnuitij $2. <J\$\/P urn. #Qx^titufioa.

E regret that the report of the annual dinner
of the above institution was accidentally
squeezed out of our last issue. The dinner
was the twenty-fourth, and was held at the
First Avenue Hotel, Captain Penton,
M.P., presiding. There were a large
number of influential members of the Trade present. In
giving the toast of the charity, the Chairman reminded
his hearers that the institution was founded as far back as
the year 1827, the object the promoters had in view being
the relief of the aged and indigent members of the trade.
The amounts granted to annuitants was £15 for men, and
£10 for women, except in the case of widows whose
husbands had not been annuitants. These men and
women did not come before them as paupers, who had not
done their best to be independent, for only those Avho had
paid five annual subscriptions were entitled to the society's
benefits. There was also an asylum situated at Hackney.
The number of annuitants, he was glad to tell them,
had increased from three in the year 1828 to 80 at the
present time, the payments now exceeding about £109
per month. Altogether as many as 394 persons had
benefited by the charity since its establishment, whilst the
amount distributed amongst them was no less than
£30,487. (Cheers.) The annual subscriptions, it was
satisfactory to state, had increased from £103 at the outset
to £1,057 at the present time, while the life subscriptions
and donations now stood at the handsome sum of £9,542.
In conclusion, the Chairman earnestly pleaded the cause
of charity, observing that, if it were more widely known,
he was sure its income would be considerably in excess of
what it is now. The toast, needless to say, was honored
with all enthusiasm. " The Chairman " was next toasted,
and then the Goldsmiths' Company were cordially thanked
for the generous support they extended to the charity.
Other toasts followed. ■ The secretary, in the course of the
evening, announced subscriptions and donations amount-
ing to a little over £120. It is difficult to understand why
every young man connected with the trade does not join
this commendable institution. The subscription need not be
more than five shillings a year, which can be sent to Mr.
Innocent, either at the Horological Institute, Northampton
Square, or to his private address. As the experiences of
this society unfortunately show, not only are those who
are in the receipt of weekly wages liable to be overtaken
in such a manner that the charity may prove their salva-
tion, but that the same fate may overtake even prominent
men in the Trade.

February 1, 1892.]

THE WATCHMAKEE, JEWELEE AND SILVEESMITIL

158

Sheffield (Nfotes.

(By our own Correspondent.)*

TTTHE Board of Trade returns for the past year show a
e)Jfe gradual monthly increase in the exports of cutlery
to the United States. This is a natural reaction
from the state of nearly utter stagnation which prevailed
for some months after the M'Kinley tariff came into force.
Prior to that period, goods likely to be affected by the
measure were rushed into the States very much in excess
of the immediate requirements of the country. The heavy
stocks thus created are now evidently worked off. Hence,
the gradually increasing demand., It was always antici-
pated that the very best class of Sheffield goods would
always sell in the States — tariff or no tariff. Experience
thus far has justified this view of the situation, as the
demand is now solely for expensively got-up cutlery. The
commoner sorts are, for the present, out of the running
altogether.

XT7HE tragic event at Sandringham, which has plunged
^J® the highest family in the land into the depths of
sorrow, and has called forth the generous sympathy
of the entire nation, has necessitated the abandonment of
several paragraphs intended for this month's Notes.
Under the altered circumstances any elaborate account of
the work of the committee of ladies formed for the purpose
of getting up a Sheffield present in connection with the
contemplated Eoyal Wedding would be altogether out of
place. Needless to say, the whole thing will now be
abandoned, and the artistically got-up works in silver,
which would doubtless be the form which Sheffield's present
would have taken, will not even get as far as the
modelling and designing stage. It is known that not a
few of these presents from distant parts of the country
would have been manufactured in Sheffield, and, in point
of fact, Messrs. Fenton Bros., of Earl Street, had an order
in hand, which will now, of course, be countermanded.

'ESSES. J. and J. BEAL are the makers of a
case of cutlery recently presented to Mr.
Howard Vincent, M.P. for the Central Division of
Sheffield, by the habitation of the Primrose League con-
nected with that part of the borough. Mr. and Mrs.
Vincent will doubtless find the articles contained in the
case quite capable of doing their work. The knives, which
look as though they would cut, are hafted with the best
African ivory. The somewhat ticklish operation of
engraving upon ivory has been performed upon each handle,
which is ornamented with Mr. Vincent's crest. The
spoons and forks, which are of the best nickel silver electro-
plated, are of the Old English pattern. Although the
precious metals throughout only occur in the form of
electro - deposit, yet Messrs. Beal have so lavished an
amount of excellent workmanship and materials in the
getting up of the order, that the present will be found an
exceedingly valuable one. Apart from this, however, Mr.
Vincent will doubtless value the gift as the production of
his own constituents — Messrs. Beal's works being in that
division of the borough which he represents.

pTOPPEB-PLATE engraving is one of the many industries
l_J which depend, for the most part, on the silver and
cutlery trades for their existence. The expenditure
upon books of patterns forms a considerable item in the
expenditure of a silver and electro-plate manufactory. It
gives one no bad idea of the variety of new patterns coming
out to look in upon some copper-plate engraver doing an

We must not be understood as endorsing all, ornecensarlly any. of the views of
our correspondent, who writes on his own responsibility.

average business. In this way I drop in occasionally upon
Mr. Wm. Hoyland, of Eockingham Street, in whose work-
shop one may generally rely upon coming across the
pictorial representations of some of the newest things in
the trade. I have often been struck with the excellence
of Mr. Hoyland's work — its correctness of drawing and
high artistic finish. It says something for copper-plate
engraving that photography, although now carried to a
high degree of perfection in connection with silversmiths'
patterns, has not been able to run it down.

XT/HIS is the season when new patterns are very much
ej® in evidence. The lull which is always expected to
follow the hurry and bustle before Christmas is
favorable to this. The manager who knows his business
always contrives to have his patterns ready in time for the
first journey of the travellers in the New Year. They quite
understand this at Messrs. John Bound and Sons, where
some new things in the shape of " five o'clock " tea cases
attracted my attention the other day. A determined effort
is evidently being made by this firm to improve upon the
old orthodox patterns — fiddle, threaded, Old English, and
so forth. Last year about this time it was spoons with
the National floral emblems to finish off the handles which
constituted the new departure in this line. This year we
have the shields of the principal muncipalities in the
country discharging the same function. These cases, some
of which are very richly got up, contain six tea-spoons and
a pair of sugar tongs. As the whole of these articles
weigh only about three ounces they are very suitable for
production in silver. The fact that Messrs. Eound and
Son have gone to the expense of dies cut for each of these
shields seems to indicate an expectation on their part that
the idea has money in it. On the whole, I think they are
right.

TITHE Christmas holidays have always had a demoralis-
a)J® ing effect on silver and electro-plate workers. The
prolonged holiday following the festive season is felt
to be a nuisance by everyone, and yet there seems to be no
remedy for the evil. The artisan gets into working order
very gradually indeed. The first day he merely looks in,
but retires precipitately, as though he expected to be
pounced upon by a manager with a job. The next day he
not only looks in, but looks round. And so, little by
little, he gets accustomed to the idea of work, and finally,
at the end of the first week, after the legitimate end of the
holiday, he dons his apron and begins work. Even then
he is soon tired, and it is fully another week before he gets
into full swing. The workman, of course, is not altogether
to blame for this state of things. The silversmith detests
waiting for a job. As orders are cleared off as much as
possible before Christmas, work is consequently not always
given out immediately after the holidays with the amount
of regularity which the artisan would like. With all this,
however, a very fair start has been made this year. Some
good orders have come in, mostly from Australia, and
Messrs. James Dixon and Sons, of Cornish Place, have got
their full share of them. Messrs. Eound and Son and
Messrs. Atkin Bros, also are busy, and on the whole the
year may be said to have opened fairly well.

ESSES. MAPPIN AND WEBB have ultimately
decided to have the electric light in their new show-
room, and the contract for running the wires
and fittings has been given to the Sheffield Electric
Light Company. A great deal of unaccountable hesitation
seems to have been shown before this decision was finally
arrived at. Even yet the resolution to employ electricity
for lighting purposes does not go beyond the showroom.
A glance at this noble apartment, which is rapidly ap-
proaching completion, will probably supply the reason.

154

THE WATCHMAKER, JEWELER AND SILVERSMITH.

February 1, 1892.

Windows aijd Window Dressing.

By the Editor.

(Continued from ftage 135.)

HE accompanying illustration shows the
window-stand described in our last article,
dressed with gem-jewelry. Upon the two
end blocks the principal things shown are
necklets. Curved surfaces, springing out-
wards, are always the best for these ; the
stones stand out much better, and the
necklets take a more graceful sweep, looking far more im-
posing than when on a flat surface, such as that now
covered by the ring-trays. All articles other than brooches

not want it the next time you dress your window. If some
special grip is necessary, the top of the pin can be bent
round slightly — but the less the better ; and then care
must be taken not to drive it in too far, or the velvet will
be marked by the necklet. Pendant necklets always show
best by themselves, and far better in an ellipse than a
slight curve. When necklets have not very much enlarged
centres, they -may be crossed with the object of forming
curves, following the main figure in the block. In these
two end blocks with the style and dressing adopted above,
the central figure — the pendant necklace — is by far the
most conspicuous object, but by rearranging the same articles
in scores of other ways, it would not be perceptibly
differentiated. Even if the other necklets only hung in
similar ellipses, say at 90deg., from each other, the central
one would suffer immensely, and would approach the
general appearance of the others. Perhaps no one would

::■'-. VI. ^ • *J-a \v -„ -.'J I "€;%•]/ /Hi

"SWQ^^I

WJW&M

if r

: , . ,. ■:,

are held in position by pins. Black pins may be used if
they are good ones, but it will be found that many black
pins discolour the silver settings in a day or two, so that
good white pins, cut to the required lengths, are to be
recommended. It will be best to cut an ounce or so of
ordinary pins in half an inch to five-eighths lengths, and
then give them, and a half-ounce of uncut ones, a dip in
the gilding-pot. It will be necessary to use the pliers in
putting them in and out ; and here let me say a word or two
upon the light hand necessary in this work. It must be
remembered that the better the velvet, the easier it is
marked. Therefore, never let the pliers or the fingers
touch it, or it will be crushed and marked immediately.
Always endeavour to drive a pin in at right angles to the
surface, or as near that as possible. Never drive it in at
an angle of 70deg. or 80deg., or it will assuredly mark the
velvet, and the mark will just as surely come where you do

realise this without making the experiment, although it is
very important when one wants to make the best of a
speciality. When a necklet is thus hung, the central
space also becomes an important position, and some-
thing really good should be put there. Naturally,
the best things to go there are pendants ; but one is hardly
enough, unless the window is sparingly dressed. If fully
dressed, two, or even three, may be employed, which will
be disposed according to the outlines chosen for the necklet.
Do not drive in a straight pin at an acute angle upon
which to hang the pendant, but make a small U-shape
bend, and then turn the stem at right angles to the plane
of the paper. The pin that then pierces the velvet will
enter it straight, and will not mark it. I have dwelt
somewhat fully upon

HOW TO AVOID MARKING THE VELVET,

from the fact that I have several times seen windows

February 1, 1892.]

THE WATCHMAKER, JEWELER AND SILVERSMITH.

155

ruined the first time of dressing, as when once the velvet
is crushed it can never he made to look as well again.
Each time the block is dressed it should be carefully
brushed with a wisp such as milliners use for bonnets.
The block may occasionally be taken to the fire and
brushed. When an accident happens, and it gets crushed,
it can be taken to the fire and made fairly warm, the
crushed nap carefully raised with a needle, and then
brushed. The spaces between the necklets may now be
employed for sprays, the curves of which can follow those
of the central necklet and bisect other angles.

In dressing end blocks like these it is best to take them
out, stand them with their flat sides together, and then
make the main features of the two to resemble each other.
If this be attempted, care should be taken to make the
various members of the same height as each other, and a
window thus bilaterally symmetrical looks whole, entire,
and part and parcel of one exhibit. It is next to impossible
to dress one side first ; put that in the window, and then
dress the other from memory, in such a manner that it
will match or go well with the other. Nor is it probable
that two assistants will dress the two blocks to match
well ; they should both be dressed by the same hand.
The other parts can be divided up if necessary. The back
blocks being perhaps the most important should be dressed
first. After dusting the stand with the wisp, the two end
blocks can be placed into position ; but the centre one had
better be kept out of the window until the bottom is
dressed. It will be noticed that the bottom has a tendency
to divide up into three parts — the central area, and the
two larger spaces at its sides. In the above case we have
dressed the two side spaces to match, employing a rising
sun, conventionalised, as a centre for each. Around these,
describing a curve, lie a set of stars ; and the rising suns
not being sufficient to fill the curve made by the stars, we
add an insect on each side. Following the curve of the
side blocks, we arrange a row of fichu brooches. These
are shown lying on the velvet, but owing to their natural
topheaviness they look much better if put into separated
blocks of the smallest size possible, covered with either the
same color of velvet as the stand, or white if preferred. A
similar row of small blocks run round the curve of the
centre one, currying pearl studs ; these blocks should be
larger than those of the fichus, 0. G. with rounded ends
look well. For pearl studs, blue-white, or even blue, looks
well, but ivory white does not add to the better appear-
ance of off-colored pearls ; quite the reverse. Another
curve of insects, orchids, and a spray, is sufficient to fill up
the intervening space between the stars, and a row of three
horse-shoe stands, upon which bracelets are displayed.
There is now the space immediately in front of the centre
block — one of the best positions of the window — and in
this we put

THREE ROWS OF NOVELTIES,

consisting of new enamel flowers. This leaves about the
same space on either side, and across this diagonally we
lay a row of orchids, filling up the triangle left in front by
another of a rather larger size. The bottom and two
sides being now finished, we will turn to the centre
block. This is no doubt the most important position in
the window, but it must be reserved for large and
important articles. It is the block that catches the eye of
the passer-by, and arrests his attention ; and if it consists
of small, confused things, they will not have the power of
arresting attention. This is therefore the position for
large sprays, large flights of swallows — in fact anything
large, commanding and imposing. In the centre is shown
a magnificent spray, several of which have been made up
during the last two years. Following the curve made by
it is a row of various-sized swallows, the angle being
occupied by a large orchid. Above these, however, is a

very important and large space, the centre of which is
occupied by a very large aigrette ; to the right, Diana
sitting on the crescent, and to the left are two flying
herons following the general trend from Diana ; while
above them the space is occupied by a huge pansy in
colored gems. The large corner thus left is occupied by
an immense orchid. In the case under consideration two
ring trays, standing upon easles, occupy the larger portion
of the flat back members, and a small stand of pearl pins
fills up the vacancies of the corners. In the front of the
first step tivo crescents — or as they are now called, " new
moons" — stand out sufficiently clearly to be striking;
spearated by another of those curiosities of the floral world
— the orchids. Upon the top of each block is a velvet-
covered bust, upon which are displayed three different sorts
of necklets. These busts are doubtless the very best
methods of displaying necklets ; and I should recommend
everyone to procure a plaster bust, life-size, of a classic
lady (or goddess) to stand on the counter, upon which to
exhibit necklets to a customer. This adds to their appear-
ance infinitely more than putting them upon a velvet or
satin pad.

( To be continued. )

-3*8SS-

S^irmirjgftam ^easefer^' ancj
eK/^ociatiorj.

iP^er^rrjifft^'

fHE fourth annual meeting of the above association
was held on the 15th January, under the presidency
of Mr. Walter Best, the chairman of the association.
The meeting was held in the board-room of the
Assay Office, kindly loaned for the occasion by the
wardens. The various reports and statements of account
(which are not yet printed for circulation) were read and
passed, and the following officers for the current year were
elected : — Chairman, Mr. J. W. Tonks ; Vice-Chairman,
Mr. W. H. Lord; Treasurer, Mr. W. H. Coley ; Hon.
Secretary, Mr. G. W. Whitehouse ; Auditor, Mr. F.
Nathan ; Committee, Messrs. W. Best, J. Wainwright, J. P.,
H. R. Wright, W. H. Small, and P. H. Levy ; being, as
will be observed, essentially composed of manufacturers,
the factoring interest being conspicuous only by its absence.
Whether this is intentional or accidental, we must leave
others to decide. In his elevation to the chairmanship,
Mr. J. W. Tonks receives a well-earned recognition of good
and lengthy service rendered to the association as hon.
secretary. He has thrown his whole energies into the
work, and especially in reference to the Art and Technical
schools his exceptional ability and art knowledge have
been of invaluable service. Presumably his opportunities
in this direction will be increased rather than lessened by
his present position. It is pleasing to know that his time
and services are given heartily and ungrudingly for the
welfare of the trade. The annual dinner of the associa-
tion, fixed for the 23rd January, had to be postponed to
some future date. In consequence of the Court being in
mourning, the Jewelers' Member of Parliament, Mr. Joseph
Chamberlain, could not be present on that date, and as his
presence and speech are looked upon as the characteristics
of the evening, it was decided to wait until such time as he
could be present. In their circular announcing the post-
ponement, the committee say that the tickets taken can
either be held over till the event takes place, or the
purchase-money will be at once refunded to anyone so
desiring it.

" Baume Watch, London," the telegraphic address of
Messrs. Baume and Co., 21, Hatton Garden, E.G., has
been inadvertently omitted from the list of telegraphic
addresses appearing in our Diary for 1892, just issued.

156

THE WATCHMAKER, JEWELER AND SILVERSMITH.

[February 1, 1892.

(By our own Correspondent.)*

« MONTH of sadness and of disappointment ! Such is
in brief the only record I can give of this first portion
of the year 1892. The joyous greetings so freely
interchanged a month ago have utterly failed of ful-
filment, and the happiness of the New Year, as a national
matter, has already passed away for ever. It is useless
trying to speculate as to what might have been had the
happy auguries of a month ago been realised. Doubtless our
trades would have shared largely in the prosperity fostered
by Court festivities ; but with the sad event of the 14th all
such anticipations were lost. ' Apart from the melancholy
matter just referred to, the year did not open well. The
usual stocktaking operations, in which so many of our local
firms indulge at this season, did not turn out so satisfactory
as was hoped. In too many instances the stocks were
found to be much too large, requiring but little, if any,
filling up ; while the Christmas sales had been disappoint-
ing in several particulars, notably in expensive goods.
Hence there was but comparatively little buying done by
the factors, who preferred testing the trade with what
stock they had rather than increasing it. The course of
events has proved their wisdom in this case. Since the
lamentable death of the Prince all trade here has been
simply at a standstill, a little demand for cheap mourning
goods, and a few calls for better class onyx work, being the
only ripples observable.

1LTARIOUS of the Birmingham manufacturing firms —
^\/? • both jewelers and silversmiths, had important presen-
''Jt? tation work in hand, and others were daily expecting
orders to proceed with pieces estimated for. I
have not heard upon what basis these interrupted matters
will be settled, but presumably the makers will not be
actually out of pocket by them.

fHE sudden disappearance of a small manufacturer — or
perhaps he would be better described as an out-
worker— in the early part of January, caused some
little sensation here. Very few particulars, however,
of the affair have leaked out, and I am unable to give
details, there being apparently no reason or excuse given
by those concerned. There is no indication of anything
unusual having occurred beyond the fact of the man's
disappearance, and the removal of his sign from the
business premises.

tNOTHER disappearance which has had a more
serious effect on many of the Birmingham jewelers
is that of Mr. Marks. He was a man well known
throughout the trade here, having been for several
years in business amongst us, and when some few months
ago he began buying largely on his own account, he was
readily trusted without inquiries on the strength of " auld
acquaintance." His tale was that he had just commenced
trading afresh in London, and was likely to do a good
trade. Some little while later, before his first parcels
were due for settlement, he made a series of urgent
applications for expensive goods on approbation. Imme-
diately after this he appears to have gone, away, as the
next communications from his creditors here were returned
through the post-office, marked " not to be found." The
said creditors are now vainly trying to find out his where-
abouts, but so far without success. There is considerable
chagrin felt here on this matter, as the man's well-known
and irreproachable antecedents were deemed sufficient

evidence of his honorable intentions. I have not heard
if he confined his attentions to Birmingham, or whether
any of the London people have been favored by him
also.

{T is a wonder that there are none of the local people
included in the Edinburgh " long firm " case, as some
twelve months or so ago several inquiries for goods
were received here from Liddell and Co. Presumably,
however, the inquiries made respecting them did not turn
out satisfactorily.

fHE matter of S. Feran, of Summer Hill Terrace, at
present in the Bankruptcy Court, is being watched
with eager attention by many of the jewelers here,
who too willingly sold him goods on credit. His
affairs are being investigated by the Jewelers' Association.

1TNOTHER local firm has had to stop payment during
3A1| the month, although the matter has now been
ML settled by private arrangement — time only being
required for the payment of twenty shillings in the £.
Several of the manufacturers were interested for very large
amounts, and it is very satisfactory that nothing more than
an extention of credit is asked for.

J HAVE no less than four events of a social character
to chronicle this month. 1st — The English Watch
Company, of Villa Street, gave a dinner to their work-
people at the Great Western Hotel, after which an
illuminated address was presented to Mr. Gardener, the
manager, from the workpeople. 2nd — A supper given by
Messrs. Swinden and Sons, of Temple Street, to their
workpeople and friends. 3rd — The presentation
of a gold watch and chain, and a purse of gold, to
Mr. J. Detheridge, manager to Mr. J. Stainton,
Pershore Street, on the completion of his thirtieth year
of service. This occasion is especially noteworthy as
indicating the pleasant relationship of employer and
employed. Several prominent members of the trade were
present, and various speeches were made. 4th — The
Annual Ball of the Operative Jewelers' Society. Quite a
round of pleasure to set off our otherwise dull report of
the month.

fHE Operative Jewelers' Society is one that does not
make much noise in the world, but which, never-
theless, does good work among a certain section of
the workmen of our trades. It combines the advan-
tages of a trade and benefit society, and it would be well
if all the working jewelers would join it. I am afraid that,
as a lot, they are extremely improvident, and any general
falling-off in work would bring poverty and suffering to
many of them.

We must not be understood as endorsing all, or necessarily any, of the views of
our correspondent.

fHE RE has been one solace during the month to the
manufacturing fraternity here in the presence of an
Australian buyer, who has picked out some very
good lines. I was told of a ring maker having
placed a matter of £450 with him, but this is mere gossip
and not reliable information. As a rule, business people
do not mention the amounts of their sales or orders. I
know, however, for a fact, that in the aggregate a large
quantity of stuff was sold, which has proved a very
needful help to the returns of the month.

One of the most important works upon optics has
recently been brought out by Messrs. T. Cook and Sons,
Buckingham Works, York, " On the Adjustment and
Testing of Telescopic Objectives." We hope to give a full
account of this valuable addition to our knowledge upon
this subject at an early date.

Februaby 1, 1892.]

THE WATCHMAKER, JEWELER AND SILVERSMITH.

157

@ur feetter from tfte QiarnoneL

(By Vaalite.)

Kimbeeley, Dec. 26.
" ^LXCE my last letter a number of very
important events have transpired, that
is, so far as the future of the diamond
market is at present concerned. In the
first place, Mr. Ward has at last got to
the end of his litigation over the owner-
ship of the Wesselton or Premier Mine, and the claims of
his principal partner, Mr. Armstrong, have been settled
in the High Courts. What a chapter in life the lives of
these two men during the last few years present ! For at
least sixteen years they have been working together, now
in the diamond mines, now prospecting elsewhere, some-
times earning £1,000 a month, at another enjoying the
fate of many a digger, without a shilling to bless them-
selves with. However, the fascination of great hauls
always drowns the thought of reverses ; and so men of
this sort get sometimes to think more of discovering a
good thing than of making money by it. It was not the
case, however, with both these men, although it undoubt-
edly was so with Armstrong, whose whole life seems to
have been absorbed in working newly- discovered localities,
not caring a straw about the keeping of accounts, or, in
fact, anything connected with the financial side of the
question. Ward, on the other hand, was the business
man, and always had his eye on the main thing, keeping
all accounts and managing everything of a financial nature.
So unconcerned was Armstrong about money matters,
that since they first joined together as partners he had
never seen any of the accounts ; but on the great discovery
of the Premier, and as soon as its wealth began to develop,
he began to wake up, and press for accounts to be rendered
and the definition of his share in the property. But the
business man, somehow or other, worked and worked
again until he had got possession, and although Armstrong
was entrusted with several important missions — including
a journey to England to try to sell the undeveloped con-
cessions of the right of purchase of the Oliphantsfonteins
and Benaudheidsfontein (the latter is the farm upon which
is situated the celebrated Premier Mine) , and subsequently,
when the diamonds had been discovered on the latter and
the nature of the mine practically demonstrated, he was
sent by Ward to Cape Town to effect the business with
Mr. Cecil Rhodes — he even then had an undefined claim,
which Ward was disposed to consider less and less as the
richness of the property developed. As the property, how-
ever, was developing every day, and thousands of carats
of diamonds of exceptionally fine quality were being found,
Armstrong reluctantly had to resort to the strong arm of
the law to arrest his rights from his old chum. Still he
never showed any animus against him, and the two men
kept friendly aU along. At last the case has been brought
into court, and after three days' trial, an agreement was
made outside the court that Ward should pay Armstrong
£40,000, a small enough sum in all conscience ! The
lawyers were appointed trustees, and upon the completion
of purchase, and after he had paid off the other claimants,
which include £150,000 to J. J. Wessels, Ward was con-
demned to pay Armstrong £40,000 clear. The purchase-money
was to be given to the lawyers, who should pay one-fourth
to the plaintiff and three-fourths to the defendant until the
£40,000 was fully settled ; and they were then to hand
back the deeds of title. This having been settled, no time
was lost, and

THE DE BEEES IMMEDIATELY CLOSED IX WITH WAED,

and bought out his share, so that, as I first pointed out as

probable, the mine has fallen into the hands of the great
combination. That the De Beers Company did not
believe the stat ement which their admired head had put
forth regarding the improbability of diamonds being found
in any other hole save the four they possessed was evident
by the way they were swelling up their reserve fund,
which, on September 30th of this year, had reached
£1,138,986. It was out of this fund that they are said to
have paid the purchase-money without asking the share-
holders for a single penny. But at the same time they did
not overdraw on the year's profits or the dividends of the
shareholders, as they have recently declared a dividend of
12s. 6d. per share, which is equal to 25 per cent, per annum.
And further, of the 210,000 shares in the British South
African Company, 158,000 have been distributed as bonuses
amongst their shareholders, every holder of five shares
receiving one. I wish the "combine" luck ! If they have to
pay for every mine that is found, as they have had to pay
for this, they will have to put by very large reserves ; and if
they are not able to do this, their "combine," as such, will
fall. Of course, that is if other mines are discovered
which can put as large or a larger quantity of diamonds
into the market, and should happen to be in possession of
men who would not do such an injustice to the public as
to try to get the same price for their diamonds as do the
De Beers. On the other hand an agreement in respect to
prices could be arranged, and we may be sure, for the
benefit of all concerned, it will be done. * However rivals
call out against the De Beers, their complaints are probably
more actuated by a spirit of envy and jealousy than by a
burning desire to do the public any good or kind action.

That a great change will take place in the near future is
certain. Whether the De Beers will now work the Premier
in a scientific manner and abandon their expensive under-
ground workings at the other mines is not, I believe,
decided ; but to buy up a big concern like this, with
diamonds in great quantities near the surface, easily work-
able and get-at-able, and then to shut it down, and go on
getting them under far more expensive methods, is more
than one can imagine of the shrewd heads at the top of
the " combine."

But whatever their action, they will have to bestir them-
selves, for just as sure as the Premier existed, so sure are
there other mines ; indeed I have been told of several new
places lately, which are as certain at their present stage as
was the Premier at a corresponding one. Some people
have asked why De Beers don't have a proper survey of
the whole district made, but a second thought would show
that that is the very tiling they do not want done. But
whether this is a question for the Government is quite
another matter ; most people, I think, considering it is.

I must not forget to inform you of a lucky find of a
digger up the river, who has had the good fortune to come
across a fine diamond 205-^- carats in weight. What he
parted with it for to an ordinary dealer is a mystery, unless
we see in him a little of the Armstrong nature. The
lucky buyer of the stone has refused £80,000 for it. It is
said to be of perfect shape and color, and second only to
one river stone in size, while in quality is far the best.

A Big Emerald. — Messrs. Barnett and Scott, of "YVhite-
friargate, Hull, have recently had on exhibition a thirty carat
emerald. Owing to the low specific gravity of the stone
it is, of course, a rather large one. Some report it as
being " as large as a walnut," which is almost as vague as
"big as a piece of chalk." However, it is surrounded by
300 grains of diamonds, and forms an attraction to the
window, being valued at £2,500. No doubt it will serve
to confirm the impression that some very lovely things
pass through the hands of Messrs. B. and S.

i.-,s

THE WATCHMAKER, JEWELER AND SILVERSMITH.

[February 1, 1892.

UranAatfarvLie ^ottingx^.

(From Our New York Correspondent.)

Vr7U( >SE of your readers who have flourished like a green
eJL® bay tree under the long-run benefits of Free Trade will
not be surprised to hear that anything but complete
satisfaction exists over the iniquitous impositions of the
M'Kinley tariff. And although it has too many interested
partisan supporters to be abolished in one fell swoop, it will
assuredly get denuded of its multitude of limbs piecemeal,
for at the reassembing of Congress at New Year there were
no less than twenty measures introduced, proposing to put
various articles upon the free list. I don't know that I am
altogether pleased with this step, I guess it would have been
just as well to let the nation smart under its shortcomings,
as to modify it time after time, and so partially square the
people it so materially harms.

# # *
C7EVERAL important changes in the import tariffs on
2D watches, clocks and jewelry are provided for in the

reciprocity treaty recently arranged between Secretary
Blaine and the British Minister concerning the trade
between the United States and the British West Indian
colonies of Jamaica, Barbadoes, the Leeward and the
Windward Islands, except Grenada, Trinidad, and the South
American colony of British Guiana. It is probable that
the arrangement will go into operation as to the West
Indian colonies February 1st, and as to British Guiana
March 31st. The official proclamation of the treaty will be
issued as soon as it is ratified by the colonial legislatures.
Among the articles placed upon the free list are mantel and
wall clocks ; copper, bronze, zinc, and lead articles, plain
and nickel plated, for industrial and domestic uses and for
building ; crucibles and melting pots of all kinds, lamps
and lanterns, watches, when not cased in gold or silver,
and watch movements uncased. It is understood that the
packages or coverings in which the articles named are
imported shall be admitted free of duty if they are usual
and proper for the purpose. In Jamaica the lamps and
lanterns to be admitted free must not exceed 10s. each in
value.

* * *

fHAYE heard a good deal lately about two new gem
stones. One is called " Sarascite " and is found in the
Nevada district ; it is described as being a beautiful
stone of a lovely dark green color. The other is called
" Thompsonite," and comes from away up Lake Superior.
As it is spelt with a " p" I suppose it is something different
to the British stone Thomsonite. If it is not — well, it is
not an American gem.

* # *

T, HEARD a curious case the other day of a man putting
x 13,000 dols. worth of diamonds and other valuables,
contained in two boxes, into the waste-paper basket, and for-
getting all about them till the next day. Then the waste-
paper basket had been emptied. Oddly enough, they were
recovered unopened at the waste-paper office.
a£ %. ±

rf W. TROUGHTOX, of 176, Broadway, New York, has
LJ ■ on show just such a collection of fine Wisconsin pearls
as is not elsewhere to be seen ; nearly every color a
man can name is represented. There is one, a magnificent
bronze, weighing 37 grains.

* * #

fT may seem difficult to realise that the ordinary cuteness
possessed on this side should be at such low water as
for a jeweler to buy brass filings for gold, especially
when he was buying it at about half gold price. The tale
simply told is this : — A few days ago a New York jeweler
received a visitor, who told him that two Russian exiles
had a quantity of gold dust to dispose of, obtained in the

Siberian Mines ; and giving his name and address, asked
the son of the crucible if he would come and see it. A visit
was made, and the stuff examined. Samples were taken home
and assayed, and these proved to be 23-|- carats fine. See-
ing an opening for a good " bis," he got together a syndi-
cate of friends, Avho supplemented his 400 dols. with 3,200
dols, and with this the delighted bargain hunter procured
about 201b. weight of what afterwards proved to be brass
filings. Since half an hour after that bargain our hero
has been unsuccessfully searching for those exiles.

\ I /HERE has been a great sensation in Dayton, 0.,
^1® over the robbery of 18,000 dols. worth of diamonds
stolen from a car while R. Kramig, of the firm of
Herman Keck of Cincinnati was taking a bit of lunch.
This was an operation which lasted about five minutes, but
was a period of time sufficient to effect a clever robbery and
get off, as the fellow passengers saw no one either enter or
leave the car. I still think it is a bit careless of a salesman
to leave such a stock as this in a valise under a car seat ;
but as Mr. Keck don't think him to blame I won't
interfere.

* * *

\|/HE stock is insured, which may perhaps account for Mr.
^J® Keek's indifference. However, 1,000 dols. reward was
offered. From the first, suspicion fell upon a saloon
keeper, Fritzie Dhein, who has been a diamond crook, and
served eighteen years behind prison bars ; but he managed
to assume innocence, and account for his actions on that
day, although they were mighty suspicious. However,
Fritzie Dhein and others have been apprehended, and the
sparklers have been discovered buried. Now comes a dis-
pute about the reward !

* ^ *

\| /HE papers on this side are making a bit of a noise over
e)Jfe what a lapidist on South Tenth Street called a
"new scheme to entrap the unwary." It appears
that a lot of paste is made in England to be cut up into
imitation gems, and sent as a commercial commodity all
over the world. Some of this has reached here. I don't
see there is anything new in it nor, so far as I can see, any-
thing criminal. It is only sold in the first instance for
what it is, and if a man attempts to deal in gems without
knowing them from glass, I think he ought to pay for a
little knowledge.

Round tbi© Wateh FaetQiil^s.

The automatic machines set up this year by the
American Waltham factory are far in excess of previous
annual additions, including jewel-setters, pinion cutters,
engraving, stoning, and scrolling machines, with lots more
in progress.

The Waltham Dial Company hopes shortly to have a new
brick building four stories high, and 150 by 30 feet. It is
increasing its capital stock to 100,000 dols.

The Waltham factory roll is rapidly nearing 3,000, being
2,920 on the 1st. November.

The Elgin are manufacturing a new 18-s. patent crown
repeater. They have dropped the ladies' lever 6-size.
But all things are not so rosy at Elgin as one could wish.
The late reductions have given rise to great discontent, and
I should not be surprised if there is a general strike before
this letter reaches you.

The Dueber Watch-case Company is said to have made
a payment of 50,000 dols. to creditors in advance.

The Cheshire Watch Company's assets have been sold
for 50,000 dols. ; the plant originally cost 150,000 dols.

The Connecticut Electric Clock Company has been
formed with 15,000 dols. capital. The speciality is an elec-
tric clock that will ring an alarm for four hours if it is not
stopped.

Rumors of new clock factories are current — one at Long
Branch, N.J. ; another at Salen, N.Y.

February 1, 1892. J

THE WATCHMAKER, JEWELER AND SILVERSMITH.

159

®«it

uar

THE LATE SIR GEORGE BIDDLE AIRY, K.C.B.
(Formerly Astronomer Royal ).

If there is one high position in the land with which the
science of chronometry is more connected than any
other, it is assuredly that of the Astronomer Royal, as it
is difficult or even impossible for astronomy and chrono-
metry to exist independent of each other, much of the
two sciences being the common property of both.

With the late Sir George Airy, the science of chrono-
metry has lost a valued friend, who bestowed so much of
his valuable time, amongst other things, upon the forms of
the teeth of wheels and escapements, and with a pendulum
he weighed the world. But it would be impossible to
detail his great achievements and the marvellous improve-
ments he made in many branches of observation here ;
some leading features of his life, however, may be noticed.
He was born at Alnwick, Northumberland, on July 27,
1801, commencing his education at private schools at
Hereford and Colchester, passing to Manchester Grammar
School, and in 1819 to Trinity College Cambridge, where
he was most successful, coming out Senior Wrangler in
1823. In 1826 he became Professor of Mathematics, a
chair formerly held by the illustrous Newton. But even
before this he had published papers in the Transactions
of the Cambridge Phil. Society on " The Lunar
and Planetary Theories," " The Figure of the Earth,"
some most important papers on " The Undulatory
Theory of Optics," which subject at this time was in
a very backward condition. Although nearly seventy
years have elapsed since their production, they
still remain amongst the most important contributions
to our knowledge of the undulatory theory. Amongst
other papers of about the same date, of special interest to
chronometry were " The Form of the Teeth of Wheels " and
" Escapements." In 1828, at the formation of the Cam-
bridge Observatory, he became Plumian Professor of As-
tronomy, when he commenced those arduous labors in the
spacial science which will carry his name down to pos-
terity. In 1832 he compiled for the British Association
a " Report on the Recent Progress of Astronomy" which
delighted and fixed so many minds at the time. In 1835
he was appointed Astronomer Royal, into which office he
brought with him all the skilfulness and ingenuity he had
displayed in other positions ; but here the Avider field pre-
sented a thousand paths for the great mind to manifest
itself, and accordingly, he set to work to improve and
invent all sorts of instruments too numerous to mention.
He also proposed to the Government that magnetic and
metrological observations should be made, the value of
which we are now enjoying. As it was in bis time that
iron was being largely employed for ships, the great
question of the disturbance of the compass by the metal
employed presented grave difficulties which were practi-
cally overcome by him. It is, in fact, difficult to point to a
single scientific difficulty that cropped up upon which the
Government did not consult him. He also assisted in restor-
ing the standards destroyed by the fire in the House of
Commons in 1834. As might be expected, honors were
showered upon from all directions, both abroad and at
home.

He was President of the Royal Society, Medallist of the
French Institute, of the Royal Astronomical Society (1833
and 1846), of the Royal Society, and of the Institute of
Civil Engineers. He resigned his appointment at the
Royal Observatory on 15th August, 1881. But he did not
leave the neighbourhood of his old labors, as his house on
Groom's Hill was only a few minutes' walk from the
Observatory. On the 2nd January, 1892, this most useful
of useful lives was brought to a close at twenty years after
" the allotted span " of man.

MR. GEORGE BURNAND.

The father of the Spectaclemakers' Company, after
sixty years connection, passed away with 1891. The name
of the old firm of Messrs. G. Burnand and Co., of 69,
Lombard Street, of which Mr. G. Burnand was the senior
partner, is well known in the trade. " But," says the Herts
Mercury, " it is not as a successful man of business that
he is best known in the district in which he resided, but as
a country gentleman of broad and liberal sympathies — one
in whom the poor of the neighbourhood always found a
helping friend in time of need, and one to whom appeals
for practical assistance in the furtherance of worthy objects
were never made in vain."

j^E are pleased to call the attention of the trade to the
latest production of the English Watch Company
of Birmingham for several reasons. First and
foremost, because it is of English construction throughout,
and falling as it does under the category of complicated
watches, it drives another nail into the coffin of foreign-
made articles, which usurp the place of those which ought
to be made here; and what is perhaps even more important,
it tends to remove the disgraceful stigma that we cannot
do complicated work. But that we not only can do com-
plicated work, but even do it in the simplest, most com-
pact, and effective manner, is shown by the calendar here
referred to. The calendar-work is of the simplest and
most inexpensive description, and is easily fitted to a watch
with which it has practically no connection, and we should
say, that unlike most calendars, it cannot very easily get out
of order. There is also another advantage that strikes us,
and that is the small amount of room the calendar-work
occupies. The days and months are shown through two
apertures in the dial, which in no way detract from the
appearance of the watch, and are easily altered from the
winding-button, the months being altered by a pin pro-
tected bv the bezel.

©Jfte €J. cmi. €J. &. <#'*«>. Maicjen dfaim.

E regret to see that there have been so many cases of
window smashing, accompanied by robberies of
2L late. It is really getting a very serious thing ;
several in a week having come to our notice.
Fortunately in some instances they were insured, and the loss
made good. Mr. Pocket, of City Road, was the first to
send in a claim on the "Goldsmiths' and General." As soon
as the notice was received by the company, the claim was
investigated, and the amount (about £50) at once paid.
No better argument for the importance of this Society
could be urged. It, therefore, behoves everyone who has
property worth losing, to be insured against its loss.
The expense of doing this is assuredly nothing, compared
with the ease and safety in which one can rest, and hence-
forth the dreadful fogs need no longer be the black ghosts
of everyone possessed of a window. We are fully aware
that many consider their valuables are locked up with
sufficient safety, and will continue to think so, until like
many others they find out their mistake to their cost.
But every window in which goods are displayed is liable
to be thus broken and robbed, and hence the need for
burglary insurance. We call especial attention to this
kind of loss, as some might not associate it with burglary
assurance.

-X-

Efforts are being put forward to form in Belfast a
Watchmakers' and Jewelers' Union. The lines are not
detailed, and we fear it has commenced in too half-hearted
a manner to result in anything.

1(50

THE WATCHMAKER, JEWELER AND SILVERSMITH. [February 1, 1892.

THE DIAMOND MARKETS.

Amsterdam, January 29t/t. — Our market during the
first half of the month was very much depressed ; there
was hardly any demand, and factories were almost at a
standstill, no foreign buyers being in this town. -In the
second half of the month things looked a little better,
foreign buyers made their appearance, and business com-
menced to revive though prices were yet far from
remunerating for sellers. There are always some lovers of
" sharp practice " at hand, who wait for such times of
depression to pick up bargains, and not infrequently they
get them. The sales were most in middle-class stuff, that
is, from two to four grains stones of secondary purity.
But little as yet has been done in stones of fine quality
and first water. The sad death of the Duke of Clarence,
and the failure of the expected marriage festivities at
Court as amongst the aristocratic families, are considered
here prejudicial to the diamond business.

Paris, January 29th. — The demand for polished
diamonds has, during the latter part of January, con-
siderably increased. Several very important lots found
purchasers. Prices were also better. Most of the sales
were for American accounts. Local speculation has begun
to revive.

London, January 'SOtJi. — The Cape steamers this month
have arrived regularly and in good time at Plymouth and
Southampton, and brought the usual assortments of rough
to the London market. Prices, however, were steadily
kept up, and through the depression in polished diamonds
during the first half of the month were the sales of less
than the usual importance.

SILVER.

Although the silver market opened pretty firm with the
New Year at 43f , and even rose to 44 \ by the 4th ult.
Indian exchange soon told upon it ; indeed, owing to the
uncertainty of the Oriental exchange, it was impossible to
get a reliable quotation on the 10th, and under this influ-
ence it waxed and waned a bit till the 19th ult., when it
fell to 42 9-16, a price at which it remained during the
greater part of the rest of the month,

TIN.
There has been very little up and down motion in tin
during the month, generally over £90, but not £91. After
the quietude consequent upon the prince's death, it dropped
2s. 6d. below £90.

COPPER.
Copper has enjoyed a little more variation, but the
tendency Avas on the whole a lowering one, although as
much as £48 was quoted at the early part of the month ;
it fell subsequently to £45.

SPELTER.
Spelter, perhaps, has been the most steady of the metals,
the usual price being £22 2s. 6d., although it went 12s. 6d.
higher.

QUICKSILVER.
Quicksilver had a general climb down from £8 to
£7 7s. 6d.

The metal markets were closed on the day of the prince's
funeral.

BOARD OF TRADE RETURNS FOR 1891.
IMPORTS.

1891. 1890. 1889.

Clocks and parts thereof ... £505,545 £512,419 £454,610
Watches ,, ,, ... 643,887 674,649 691,006

Showing a continued decline in imports, which, we
trust, means a great consumption of the home product.

Vim Electro-Platers' Hand-book. A practical manual for
amateurs and young students in electro-metallurgy. By
G. E. Bonney. London : Whitaksr and Co., Paternos-
ter Square, E.C., price 3s.
We must at once say that the sub-title of this book is
somewhat misleading. We cannot imagine what an
amateur has to do with the kind of work up to which this
manual leads, including as it does the latest and largest
dynamo work in use to-day. When it is known that the
author is a thoroughly qualified electrician, and has had
the full assistance of the managers of several of the large
Birmingham houses, one may expect to find something both
useful and important not only to the amateur, but to the
man who has to get his living by the service of electricity.
The whole of the introduction and description of batteries is
got through in thirty pages, and as a matter of fact, all
necessary information about them is condensed into that
space in a thoroughly practical manner. The author then
starts with the dynamo, commencing with Woolrich's
first and leads up to the most important ones at present
in use. Material, preparation of work, and . plating with
various metals are all fully dealt with in turn. In many
respects we consider this one of the very best books on the
subject.

Webster's International Dictionary, ivitJi Appendices. Messrs.
George Bell and Son, Covent Garden, W.C.

It may perhaps appear a little late for us to review this
most important work, but the fact is that although so
many literary and scientific critics have vied with each
other in singing its praises, in acknowledging it to be the
standard dictionary of the day, few have attempted to
point out its importance from a technological point of
view. It is from this standpoint, however, that we would
specially recommend it to our readers, as we unhesitat-
ingly affirm it has no compeer. Many are unaware of
the unsatisfactory and unscientific state of the technicalities
of many trades, amongst which we might mention
watchmaking. Numbers' of even the most commonplace
words used in our trade are often wrongly applied ; but
with the adoption of a uniform nomenclature, as employed
in this work, not only would things be established on a
more scientific basis, but less confusion, and more ex-
actness would exist. The new edition of this work has been
prodigiously increased, and includes on its staff of contribu-
tors the very highest authorities of the day in each of the
special branches, so that it can be confidently relied upon.

We must also point out that, unlike an ordinary
dictionary, it is not content with a line of explanation for
each word. All important words have quite a tabulated
article, not only of their roots and analogues in numerous
European languages, but quotations showing the manner
in which the word has been employed in the past. Opening
the book at haphazard the first word that strikes our eye
is eneryy, and as this may be taken as a fair sample of how
important words are dealt with, we feel we cannot do
better than reproduce it.

[Energy (en'er-jy) n. ; pi. Energies (-jlz) (P energie, LL energia,
fr Gr. evtpytia, fr evepydi active ee In + tpyov work. See In, and
Work). 1. Internal or inherent power, capacity of acting, operating,
or producing effect, whether exerted or not : as men possessing energies
may suffer them to lie inactive. 2. Power efficiently and forcibly
exerted ; vigorous or effectual operation ; as the energy of a
magistrate. 3. Strength of expression ; form of utterance ; power to
impress the mind, and arouse feelings; life; spirit; said of speech,
language, words, style ; as, a style full of energy. 4. {Physics)
capacity for performing work. Igf* The Kinetic energy of a body is
the energy it has in virtue of being in motion. It is measured by one
half of the product of the mass of each element of the body, multiplied by
the square of the velocity of the element relative to some given body
or pcint. The available Kinetic energy of a material system, uncon-
nected with any other system, is, that energy which is due to the

Febettaky 1, 1892.]

THE WATCHMAKER, JEWELER AND SILVERSMITH.

101

motions of the parts of the system relative to its centre of mass. The
potential energy of a body or system, is that energy which is not
kinetic ; energy due to configuration. Kinetic energy is sometimes
called actual energy. Kinetic energy is exemplified in the vis viva of
moving bodies, in heat, electric currents. &c. ; potential energy in a
bent spring or body suspended a given distance above the earth, and
acted on by gravity. (&c, &c.)]

But this is only one example of how thoroughly every-
thing is treated, and of the manner in which a standard is
maintained, not only for isolated words, but for entire
subjects. Take Heraldy, for instance, so invaluable to the
trade, and yet humiliating to say — so little understood.
In the whole field of this important science there is not
likely to occur anything that is not explained and illus-
trated in the work now before us. Our Craft is applied to
from every corner of civilisation to emblemize every action
under the sun, and we can confidently assert, after
many years of such occupation, that in this connection
there is no other book extant so valuable, useful, and
suggestive as this illustrated dictionary.

Small Publications. — Amongst the various almanacs
that have reached us again this year reference might be
made to Calvert's Mechanics' Almanac, which contains a
lot of valuable information. Although it is intended to
cover a very wide field, it contains very much that is
useful to various branches of our trades. London : John
Heywood, 1, Paternoster Buildings. Price 4d.

We have also received Saxon and Co.'s diagram of
time and longitude, said to be copyright. Let us hope
most of it is, so that people may not employ it again.
We should, however, very much question if anyone could
" copyright " a circle divided into degrees and minutes on
4the outside, and into hours and minutes on the inside,
such a diagram having been in use since the time of the
ancients.

The American Waltham Watch Company have pub-
lished two almanacs, excellent specimens of typography.
One of them contains a portrait of H.R.H. the Prince of
Wales, and the other that of H.R.H. the Princess. The
work put into them may perhaps be considered a little too
good for an almanac, as already we have seen them
framed.

?=I«9I==

Prehistoric Pearls. — In excavating a 500 ft. mound on
Nov. 14th in Ohio, Mr. Putnam, at a depth of 14 ft., dis-
covered a skeleton of a man encased in massive copper
armour. The most peculiar part connected with the
encasement was that the mouth of the man was stuffed
with pearls of immense size, whilst round the neck was a
necklace of bears' teeth and pearls.

The Flowers of the Sky. — In the December number
of Knowledge the able editor, Mr. A. C. Ranyard, shows
some pictures, both floral and arboreal, which fully justify
one talking about " the flowers of the sky." No doubt
when some very clever people see them they will affirm
that the former users of the above phrase knew all about the
modern revelations of stellar photography.

Exhibition of Metrological Instruments. — The trade
are reminded that the Council of the Royal Metrological
Society will hold an exhibition of instruments, maps,
charts, etc., in any way connected with this important and
growing science, from March 15th to 18th, at their offices,
25, Great George Street, S.W. They will be glad to
receive any instruments, or anything new in connection
with climatology. No doubt the exhibition will prove not
only very interesting, but very important also.

A curious advertisement appears from a Mr. Samuel
Henry De Saulles, of Spencer Street, Birmingham, which
tells its own " tale." " To Messrs. Chance Bros, and Co.,
Spon Lane. I admit that I have done wrong in marking
some sheet glass as crown glass, and selling it so marked
for microscopic and photographic purposes, and I
authorise you to publish this admission as you think
fit."

<#fem& oj? <# liferent.

A communication by Herr Waterhouse in Eder's
Direct u Jahrbuch " announces that positive photo-

m O^E^I VOW* •

graphs can be obtained direct from the camera
by adding small quantities (about one-fifth per mille) of a
substituted sulpho-urea to the developer. Experiments
were made with allyl- and phenyl-sulpho-urea added to
eikenogen. Sulpho-urea acts similarly, but without satis-
factory results. All of these substances are powerful
accelerators.

# # #

At a recent meeting of the Royal Microsco-
in?ention*. Pical Society, Mr. E. M. Nelson reported on

Messrs. Powell and Lealand's new apochro-
matic 1-12 of 1-4 NA., which he said, after severe testing,
had proved to be a remarkably fine glass, being specially
fitted for microphotography, and free from color.

At the same meeting, Mr. Bernard exhibited a new
mechanical stage, in which he had endeavoured to imitate
the movements of the fingers, in turning slides about
under the microscope. The mechanism was all under and
at the side of the stage. In this invention the slides are
moved by light adjustable frames, which secure a ready
movement of 10 x 5 cm. It is obvious, with such a range
of movement, large troughs can be searched all over. The
idea was very favorably received.

# * *

Many may wonder what the popular lecturer of
*^J; , the City Temple knows about watches and
"on clocks to attempt to lecture upon them, but
Wand,ieS they must bear in mind that the reverend
clocks, gentleman has a happy knack of amusing
people over subjects of which he but knows very
little. Of course, it was not upon the construction of
watches and clocks, or the principles upon which they are
based, that he dilated ; but by likening the three hands of a
watch or clock to three classes of men, he threw out some
very interesting remarks. He said, apparently the thread-
like one was doing the work of the whole machine. There
was a long, thin, genteel looking one, which, he supposed,
was the lady of the party. But see the little one — the
thick, short, stumpy, sturdy one, that did not move at all.
He might take off that little busy one that looked as if it
were doing the work of the whole machine, and not lose
much ; he could still tell the time. He might take off the
long, thin; genteel one, and still be able to tell the time
— we don't know if this means we can do without the
latlies i — but take off the thick, stumpy, short, sturdy
one, and the watch was useless. Likening these to various
classes of people, he kept the audience highly amused, and
although many may not think there was much in it, it is
highly suggestive when one wants to say something
"shoppy " and yet amusing, but doesn't know what to say.

-5£3*S-

The Trade of Clerkenwell. — Representatives of the
various trades of Clerkenwell met on the 6th ult., at the
George and Dragon, St. John Street Road, to take into
consideration the best means of stopping the sale of foreign
copies of Clerkenwell goods without the efficient marking
of the same, as prescribed by the Merchandise Marks Act.
Mr. W. M. Foxcroft, ex- Churchwarden of Clerkenwell,
presided. It was resolved to form an association for the
protection of the local staple trade.

162

THE WATCHMAKER, JEWELER AND SILVERSMITH.

[February 1, 1892.

Sn anc[ @ut t^e (3our\L&.

A\ Important Case. — On January 4th, at the Exeter
Quarter Sessions, before the Recorder (Mr. T. Bucknill,
Q.C.), Frederick Treeby Reid, watchmaker and jeweler, of
ITU. St. Sidwells, Exeter, sued John Saunders, builder, of
II mull Road, for .4*6, the price of a lady's gold chain.
Evidence showed that in October, 1890, defendant pur-
chased from the plaintiff a watch and chain — for £15 and
£6 respectively — as a present to his wife on their silver
wedding. i'u' was paid on delivery. Twelve months later,
defendant complained that the chain was not eighteen
carat, as it had been represented to be. Plaintiff said
when he purchased the chain from Mr. Jesty, manager for
Mr. Nix, of Exeter, he was under the impression it was
eighteen carat. Evidence given by Mr. Towill, jeweler in
the Arcade, showed that examinations and assays proved
that the chain was less than fifteen carat, but was worth
£5 or £6. Mr. Beal contended that the plaintiff's war-
ranty that the gold was eighteen carat was a false one.
A verdict was given for the plaintiff with costs, it being
considered that the plaintiff did not falsely state that the
chain was eighteen carat when he knew it was not.

A Grab Thief. — Arthur Dudley, 29, described as a
draper, of no fixed home, was charged at Marylebone Police
Court with stealing a gold watch, valued at £7 10s., the
property of John Taylor, watchmaker and jeweler, of 147,
Praed Street, Paddington. The prisoner went to the shop
and asked to be shown some watches. Some were brought
for his inspection, and he selected the one in question.
While the prosecutor was making out the bill for it the
prisoner ran out of the shop with the watch. He was
pursued and stopped, and the watch was taken from him.
He now pleaded guilty, and said that he had been driven
to do it through want. Mr. Montagu Williams passed
sentence to one month's imprisonment.

Something Like An Expert ! — Recently at the Mary-
lebone County Court, Mr. Meyer Jacob, a solicitor of
London and Cardiff, sued Mr. H. Y. Smart, jeweler, of
Westbourne Grove, to recover £20, the value of two opals
set in a ring left with the defendant to repair, which were
alleged to have been changed. Mrs. Jacobs said that when
she left the ring at one of Mr. Smart's shops, it was set
with two egg-sbaped opals, reflecting red light. When she
called for the ring, two inferior stones had been substi-
tuted. Upon noticing this she called the attention of the
assistant to it, who resented the idea, and referred her to
Mr. Smart, who was at the other shop. On showing the ring
to Mr. Smart, and asking him his opinion of the stones, he
replied they were moonstones worth about sixpence each !
She then told Mr. Smart what she thought had happened,
with the result that the former threatened to turn her out
of the shop. Other witnesses were called, who testified to
their having often seen and admired the opals, and were
sure they had been changed. Of course, Mr. Smart and
all his belongings swore that the opals had not been changed,
and afterwards Mr. Walter George was placed in the box
as a lapidary and expert, who made some statements which
form a good supplement to the fact of a man not know-
ing opals from moonstones, further suggesting that the
opals had been reversed in the re-setting. Without giving
an opportunity for the theory to be tested, the Judge gave
a verdict for defendant, without costs.

The East-end Diamond Ring Robbery. — William
Marshall, 28, described as a bootmaker, of 9, Dorset Street,
Spitalfields, has been apprehended for the outrage and robbery
at Mr. Cook's, 565, Commercial Road, reported in our last.
It appears that one of the witnesses saw him hanging about
the premises on the night of the 16th December, and again
on the ni.^ht of the robbery. Further, a publican saw him
do it, and people in a shop opposite also saw him and the
other two fellows run away. From descriptions given to

the police they were able to apprehend him. Four of the
rings have been recovered. The prisoner has been com-
mitted for trial.

A Female Window Smasher. — Now that window smash-
ing is becoming such an every day occurrence, and one that
can often be far more successfully performed than might be
imagined, a woman has turned her attention to the
subject. Unfortunately for her, as she was loitering about
the shop of Mr. Louis Sinecal, 42a, Fulham Road, previous
to the commencement of operations, she was being watched
by a laudable policeman, so that as soon as she performed
her work of window smashing and securing the plunder the
defender of the rights of property pounced upon her. It
was only with difficulty that he could get the determined
burglar to the station. She is now awaiting her trial.

Will " Uncle " Lose His Laurels ? — There are many
people who know nothing of the " laws of averages " and less
of the extent of the business done by the poor man's banker,
who consider the avuncular relative a veritable " fence."
Such an idea, groundless as it is when pushed to absolute
fact, has existed for a long time ; but revelations made on
repeated occasions lately point to other directions, viz., the
beerhouse keeper, as the more deserving of suspicion.
Several instances of beerhouses being " fences " have
recently been brought before the public notice, so that we
should think they will be inclined to alter the old verdict.
At the beerhouse of a man named Hook, landlord of the
British Queen, Windmill Road, Croydon, were recently
" found " 140 pieces of jewelry, etc,, the proceeds of
robberies, and although charged with burglary, and plead-
ing guilty to six indictments of receiving stolen property,
he was let off with three years' penal servitude.

Receiving Stolen Property. — At Wandsworth Police
Court, Osborn Hinbest, Catherine Hinbest, and Joseph
Ward, marine store dealers, were charged with receiving
a large quantity of watches, jewelry, etc., stolen from the
premises of Mr. Bernard Weinstein, jeweler, High Street,
Battersea, together with other indictments of stealing.
Hinbest having had a previous conviction proved, the
prisoners were committed for trial.

A Plausible Snare. — WTilliam Thompson, who was
apprehended on leaving Portsmouth prison, when he had
undergone a sentence of nine months for fraud, was charged
at Marlborough Street Police Court with obtaining two gold
scarf-pins from Mr. James Jay, Jeweler, of Oxford Street. It
appears that the prisoner entered the shop in March last,
and stated that he was one of the clerks at Messrs. Gasks',
asking to be allowed to take away two or three pins for the
purpose of showing them to his colleagues, who were about
to make a present to one of their number on his marriage.
The pins were valued at £3. Needless to remark prisoner
did not return, but went forthwith and pawned them. Mr.
Newton sent him back to prison for three months.

Important Action For Slander. — In the Queen's Bench
Division on January 13th, Simon Hairn Nyburg, diamond
broker, Hatten Garden, sued Solomon Ullman, pawn-
broker, of the Borough, for damages, in respect of alleged
slander, imputing to the plaintiff that he had taken
away from the defendant's premises a parcel of diamonds
of over £400 value. The defendant pleaded privilege. It
appeared that in April last plaintiff and another diamond
merchant from Holland called upon the defendant at his
shop in the Borough. After reciprocatory exhibits of
diamonds they left the office. During the time they were
in the office the defendant left the table upon which were
the diamonds, and was engaged at the telephone. After the
two merchants had gone, Mr. Ullman and his son went to
lunch, and upon their return not finding the parcel of
diamonds there, the defendant went to Mr. Nyburg's office
and told him what had happened, at first asking if he had
taken them by mistake, but subsequently adding " if you
will return my diamonds, nobody will know anything of

February 1, 1892.]

THE WATCHMAKER, JEWELEE AND S1LVEESMITH.

163

After the cross-examination of the defendant, the jury
turned a verdict for the defendant, his lordship giving
judgment accordingly.

Responsibility of Hotel-keepers. — Mr. Burnett Weigel,
of 35, Hatton Garden, recently had some curious hotel
experience. Going to Manchester on business, he proceeded
to the Grosvenor Hotel, but as the proprietor refused to be
responsible for any loss which might occur in Mr. Weigel's
stock while he was on the premises, the latter proceeded
to another hotel, where the bags were placed in a safe,
the keys of which were kept by the proprietor and the head
boots ; but even under such care as this, it transpired they
were not secure, and goods to the value of £28 5s.
were missing. An action was accordingly brought
against the hotel-keeper, which resulted in judgment for
the plaintiff with costs.

Lectures for Opticians at Last. — We are intensely
gratified to be able to state that the Spectacle Makers'
Company are about to turn their attention to technical
education, and are about to establish lectures for opticians.
We hope shortly to be able to give a full account of when
and where these will be delivered, and we hope they will
be well supported by the trade, as we may depend upon it
they will neither be continued or extended unless they are
at once appreciated.

The Nautical Almanac for 1895 is out, upon the
lines of its predecessor. It is the last which will be issued
under the direction of Dr. Hind, who retires from his post
after nearly forty years' inestimable service. He will be
succeeded by Mr. A. M. W. Downing, M.A., Fellow and
Secretary of the R.A.S., who for twenty years has been
one of the Assistants at the Royal Observatory. In 1895
there will be three partial eclipses of the sun, all invisible
in this country, and two total eclipses of the moon, one of
which will be visible here.

Magnetic Oxygen. — At a recent meeting of the Royal
Society the President announced that he had just received
a note from Prof. Dewar stating that the latter gentleman
had that day had proof of the magnetic nature of " life's
vital agent," for, having placed some liquid oxygen be-
tween the poles of the historic magnet of Faraday, he had
seen the oxygen leap up to the poles, and remain there
permanently attracted until it evaporated. This reminds
us of our old class days, when a student who was accredited
with being somewhat eccentric, stated that it was the oxygen
that turned iron into a magnet (magnetite Fe 0 Fe2 03).

The Great Electrical Exhibition. — We must remind
our readers that before another issue of our Journal the
great Electrical Exhibition at the Crystal Palace will be
in fall swing, and will be the largest of its kind ever held.
It is already open, and there is an immense amount to
interest the Trade, sufficient to necessitate several
journeys.

Discovery of Gold in Ireland. — About a fortnight ago
gold ore was reported to have been discovered on Lord
Belmore's estate, Ballintrim, Co. Tyrone, but it is probably
nothing more than has been done thousands of times in
various parts of Ireland.

London Fogs. — At the meeting of the Royal Metrologi-
cal Society on December 16th, Mr. F. J. Brodie read an
extremely interesting paper on the prevalence of fog in
London during the last twenty years, which takes the palm
for mugginess away from November, the average number of
foggy days for several months being as follows : February,
6-6days ; November, 8-8 days ; January, 8"9 days ; October,
9-2 days ; December, 10-2 days. The fogs in London often
contain so much sulphuretted hydrogen and other noxious
gases that a silver case left open for only a few minutes,
will have ths whole of its contents turned brown.

There is another extremely interesting paper upon the
secular variation of latitude, in the December number of
the American Journal of Science. The mean variation at
several stations are given, and suggestions made for obser-
vations that will give the true account of change and shape
our planet is undergoing.

Prof. Foot's paper on the Diablo meteorite, read before
the Am. Ass. for the Advancement of Science, has been
published in Nature of December 24th. This paper
contains some further account of this remarkable find
than we were able to give. We have a few of the
illustrations from the original blocks as used in Nature,
and should be pleased to send them to subscribers who
send stamped envelopes.

Mr. H. B. Crouch, an enterprising jeweler, of St. Mary
Street, Cardiff, displayed a very effective device on the day
of the funeral of the late Duke of Clarence. It consisted
of a shield of black satin, on which was executed in white
a ducal coronet, with the monogram " A.V.," and "In
memoriam," surrounded with white chrysanthemums and
ferns interspersed with crape and white satin rosettes.
Beneath this were some apt lines. At the side entrance
to the shop was an excellent life-like steel engraving of
the late duke, encircled by a magnificent wreath of choice
flowers and ferns, and from the roof hung the Union Jack
half-mast high, with the pole draped in crape.

Principles More than Parties. — At a recent important
political meeting one of the principal speakers paid a high
tribute to the watchmakers' patron, remarking that a man
best served his country who served his constituency first.
Captain Penton had greatly assisted the Government to
pass the Merchandise Marks Act, whereby the forging of
foreign watches and clocks for Clerkenwell goods had been
prevented, and there had consequently been a revival in
the Clerkenwell watch and clock trade which was most
marked. These sentiments were echoed by the other
speakers.

Messrs. P. Vaughton and
Sons, of Birmingham, have
just supplied 300 jewels to the
stewards and patrons of the
ball given in aid of the funds
of the West Lancashire Ma-
sonic Educational Institution
at Liverpool. The stewards'
jewels are in gilt and enamel,
and the Mayor's and lady offi-
cials are of 15 -carat gold and
enamel.

The jewel, of which we give
an illustration, consists of the
square and compass surmounted
by the Royal Crown, and bear-
ing the Royal Arms in its
centre. On the ribbon, which is
enamelled blue, are the initials
of the institution, W.L.M.E.I.
The Royal Arms and Crown are
enamelled in correct heraldic
colors, and the jewels are sus-
pended to the bars by ribbons
of light and dark blue silk.

On February 23rd, Mr. J. W. Tonks, the well-known
member of the firm of Messrs. Bragg, whose artistic pro-
ductions are so often described in these columns, will give
a lecture at the Society of Arts on the " Artistic
Treatment of Jewelry, Jewel and Address Caskets."
Readers are also well aware of Mr. Tonks' ability as a
lecturer on Art Jewelry, and may therefore expect some-
thing good.

1(51

THE WATCHMAKER, JEWELER AND SILVERSMITH.

[February 1, 1892.

Measuring MiPfiontfU of a
G^eeonsL.

IF ons takes up the early volumes of the Proceedings of
the Royal Society, the first thing that strikes a watch-
maker or jeweler is the number of papers devoted to
the various questions connected, both directly and indi-
rectly with chronometry. Especially is this so just before
the time when John Harrison walked over the heads of
his masters. In a few years after the settling with the
longitudinarian, chronometric subjects fell once more into
oblivion. Lately, however, at least one F.R.S. has been
bringing before the public the question of time and time
measuring ; this being the subject chosen by Professor
C. V. Boys, F.R.S. , for the Christmas Juvenile Lectures
at the London Institute. But the revolutions of planets in
either direction were operations too slow for the professor ;
and it was principally with motions of infinitely greater
velocity that were the subjects of his chronometry —
velocities, indeed, that moved at rates up to millionths of
a second !

Amongst other experiments performed before the audience
was the measuring the flight of a bullet, which was per-
formed as follows : — The bullet in its flight was made to
cut two wires — one at the muzzle of the barrel, and the
other 6 ft. distant. These were attached to electro-magnets
in connection with the main apparatus, which, roughly
speaking, consisted of a carriage running on wheels and
worked by a powerful spring. The pistol went off, and imme-
diately afterwards Professor Boys triumphantly displayed,
by means of the familiar lantern and screen, a smoked
glass on which the apparatus had recorded its work. The .
points at which the wires had been broken were marked by
a breakage in the two straight lines traced by the electro-
magnets, and the distance between these two breaks repre-
sented the time which the bullet had taken to travel
the 6 ft. The question arose how that period was to be
discovered. But beside the two magnets, a tuning-fork
was also attached to the carriage, and this tuning-fork,
when agitated, vibrated 1,000 times a second. The vibra-
tions were recorded by a zigzag line on the glass, and just
eight of the zigzags represented the distance marked by
the magnets. This showed that the bullet travelled the
6 ft. in 8-1, 000th of a second, or 750 ft. in a second. With
great care, experiments could be made to the tenth-part of
one of these zigzags, or to the 10,000th part of a second,
and that was the smallest time which could be determined
with certainty by means of any mechanical apparatus. But
even this fraction of time, small as it might seem, was very
large compared with those they had to deal with in optical
and electrical science. What must be done, for instance,
to measure such a space of time as the millionth part of a
second ? It was done by means of what was known as the
revolving mirror, which was capable of being driven at the
rate of 800 times a second. An electrical spark of the
2o,000,000th-part of a second's duration had been measured
by this means. But the sparks he was using were longer
than that, and could be used for photographing. He
had some photographs of a soap bubble taken by Lord
Rayleigh, in which it could be seen precisely what the
bubble was doing when it burst. This was not so extra-
ordinary after all, for it only burst at about thirty miles
an hour, or 45 ft. a second. But he had some more
wonderful photographs of a bullet travelling at 1,000 ft.
a second. The professor then exhibited on the screen
several photographs of a bullet in its flight, taken by means
of a spark which it caused in passing between two wires,
and which produced a bigger spark. In one the wad of
the bullet was seen travelling just behind it, in another it
was still attached. The professor, in conclusion, turned
his attention to tuning-forks, of which he had a large

collection, and observed that the very smallest, which was
felt rather than heard when set in motion, vibrated at the
rate of 40,000 times a second !

Description of tfte Mace for
Sixj.rSfeiT}.

fVERY fine silver gilt mace is about to be presented to
the Borough of Burslem by Alderman T. F. Wood.
The order was entrusted to Messrs. T. and J. Bragg,
of Birmingham (through Mr. S. Marston, of Burslem), who,
needless to say, have carried out the work in the very best
manner. The mace is nearly 4 ft. in length. At the top
is the Maltese Cross and the Royal Mound. The four
arches of the crown part of the mace rise up round a vase-
shaped centre, which supports them. The Royal Arms
occur on the cover of the vase portion, from which the
arches rise. The vase part of the head is divided by Gothic
canopies, below which come on the obverse, the arms,
crest, and motto of Burslem, with laurel and oak wreaths
on either side, and the Portland vase in the arms has been
executed with great care. The Royal Arms are on the
reverse. On the one side of the Borough Arms is the
St. George's Cross, and on the other the arms of the
County of Stafford, surmounted by the Staffordshire knot
in the form of a ribbon, with the Borough motto " Ready"
upon it. All the arms are finely enamelled in the proper
heraldic colors. In the fillet there is an interesting variety
caused by the Staffordshire knots, also bearing the motto
" Ready," appearing alternately between the gems. Below,
and in several knops on the mace, is given the fluted orna-
ment similar to that on the Wedgwood vases, for which
the neighbourhood of Burslem is celebrated. The fillet
is encircled by an alternate series of Maltese Crosses and
Aeurs de lis similar to those on the Royal Crown. Below
the head appear three griffins, also bearing the arms of
Burslem. There are four ornamental knops. On the upper-
side of those at each extremity of the mace there is a
wreath of oak ; on the lower side are various other decora-
tions, one having an enamelled band, bearing the inscrip-
tion " Borough of Burslem" in gilt letters. On the largest
knop there is a charming inward curve of a Renaissance
vase, in the upper portion of which is an enamelled mono-
gram of the donor and wreath ; on the reverse is the
inscription : " Presented by Alderman Thomas Francis
Wood to the Mayor, Aldermen, and Burgesses of the
Borough of Burslem, January, 1892." A series of elaborate
ornaments are shown upon the columns of laurel wreaths
and anthemion, with Staffordshire knots and Tudor roses.
In the upper portion of the column are four wreaths,
having alternately the letter " B.," the initial of the town,
and copies of the Union shield of Britannia as it is depicted
on the coin of the realm. One of the middle divisions of
the column is partially covered with elaborate floriated
ornament, leaving spaces filled with panels in reiwusse,
indicating the various industries of the place and the
surrounding district — as the head-gear of a coal mine ; the
potter's wheel and furnace ; the Portland vase ; mining
implements, and emblems of husbandry. The mace is
enclosed in a handsome oak case, and will be on view at
the establishment of Mr. Marston for a few days after the
presentation.

On the day of the Prince's funeral, most of the Jewelers'
shops in London were closed for at least several hours,
and many for half the day. The same was the case in
many country towns. Nothing since the death of the
Prince Consort has cast such a reign of gloom around.

February 1, 1892.

THE WATCHMAKER, JEWELER AND SILVERSMITH.

165

" protecitor^."

^LTHOUGH politics usually are not considered
to fall within the province of a Trade journal,
there are certain questions which so
materially concern and effect one's business,
as to be not only grave, but even vital. Such
questions undoubtedly fall within the abso-
lute duties of a Trade journal. Of this class is the now
much-debated " protectionist " policy of New South Wales,
which endeavours to shut out our goods from one part of
our Empire. That there is many a slip between the cup
and the lip ought to be kept in the mind of all its advocates.
On the occasion of Mi. Reid's motion censuring the " pro-
tectionist " policy of the Government, it became evident
that although the motion was not quite carried, there is
by no means that unanimity of opinion on the subject that
might perhaps be imagined — the majority being only
eight ; 138 members out of 141 taking part. The speech
cf Sir H. Parkes, too, we consider worth reproducing. He
said that he for one was as much in favor of federa-
tion as ever, and he would do the utmost in his power to
forward it. He would do all in his power to bring about
a union of the colonies, and this Government were going
to raise a barrier on the road of union by imposing these
duties. People did not want these duties. Manufacturers
did not want them — they wanted Free Trade and the
markets of Australia open to them. They did not
want duties on goods from other colonies, which would
destroy the chance of union. If the Government passed
their proposals through Parliament, he said, in the name
of the people outside, they would not submit to them.
They would fight to the end to defeat them. He should
consider it his duty, if the resolution was defeated, to
oppose the proposals of the Government in every way.
They ought to have waited for a more convenient season.
He did not want to embarrass the Government. He had
no hand in Mr. Reid's resolution, but he wanted to do
what was right. Only when forced into it would he feel
it his duty to oppose them. He could not understand the
position of his friends on the Opposition benches. He had
been forced to retire, but it was not necessary for
them to elect a pirate in his place. Sir Henry
Parkes made this remark amidst yells and cries of
" Shame." Continuing, he said it was not necessary to
elect a man in his place who was a most deadly enemy to
the greatest part of their political policy, and who had
done his utmost to render abortive whatever the party had
achieved. Allowing for defections on the fiscal and other
issues, the "real" Labour party consists of twenty-seven
members. Of these, seventeen voted for Mr. Reid's
motion, and ten against. Mr. Reid affirms that the
( )pposition only lost the day on the want of confidence
motion through the treachery of several of the Labour
members, who before the division had signed a pledge to
vote for him, but who voted for the Government when the
time came.

©ur Ur^aorou.g'fp'r Mafenafx^.

jpOSSIL fEAPvL pYSTF.RS.

The French Minister at Mexico sends an interesting and
somewhat curious report stating " that vast deposits of fossil
pearl oysters have been discovered in the State of Chihuahua
on the banks of the River Couchos, which may be easily
worked. A company has acquired ' the find ' for the pur-
pose of exportation to the I nited States." Now when we
bear in mind the distance of this State from the Gulf of
California, it appears probable that the shell in question
may in reality be fossil. Being on the bank of a river

may only mean that the stream has cut through the
older deposit, and so laid it bare. It is true the aviculidte
are amongst the aristocracy of our bivalves, appearing at a
very early date ; but we think, however, they are now en-
joying their maximum development of size, and that going
backwards in Time they get much smaller. It will be very
interesting to know more about them. We are, however,
afraid that fossil shell will be of little use in the Arts,
judging from the fossil pearls in our own collection, which
date from early secondary times.

The Importance of ^Metallurgical Science.

At the last dinner of the old students of the Royal
School of Mines, Professor Roberts-Austin in replying to
the toast, "The Mining and Metallurgical Industies,"
remarked, " If the thousands of tons of steel in the Forth
Bridge had contained two-tenths less carbon, the material
would have been worthless, that thousands of tons of
copper would be useless if it contained a trace of bismuth,
and eighty millions sterling of gold coin which Sir C.
Fremantle had been responsible for would have crumbled
away if it had contained one-tenth per cent, of lead."
Assuredly metallurgy is the most important of the sciences.
American Pearls.

Fifteen fine pearls were recently taken out of a New
Jersey river, which are claimed to be of exceptional
quality and value, surpassing previous finds. There are
also new discoveries in Wisconsin. It is estimated that
within the limits of one township last summer over
100,000 dols. worth were found on the banks of the Sugar
River. Many of these are now finding their way into the
European markets, where they are commanding high prices.
As we have previously pointed out, for range of hue-suite
they stand unapproached, occurring in every possible hue.
Although we have been a great admirer of the diversity of
hues of the shells (and necessarily of their pearls) of the
family that produces them, there are certain features
of the ocean pearls — whether of the Meliagrina or
any of the Aviculida? — which immediately distinguish them
from fresh-water productions. There is a difference in the
" orientation " of the " skin," which is not only altogether
different microscopically, but is evident to the unassisted
vision. There is further that characteristic of "hammer-
ing " so well known which is essentially of oceanic origin;
and it may be that, with the keen competition by the
Unionidae, this feature which is so distinctive, may become
very much more appreciated, and " hammered " pearls more
eagerly sought after and command a higher price in the
future.

Green Mexican Onyx.

Amongst the various hues of Mexican onyx one of a
beautiful shade of green was discovered some time ago at
the Ozark Mine. Following up the quarrying at the spot
has resulted in the discovery of a vein of the same color.
Some very large slabs of this lovely hue have now been
extracted, and will shortly be on the market.

A flEMAP^KABLE TOURMALINE.

A beautiful specimen of unusually large size of this
gem, of a fine green color, was recently found in the mine
of the Mount Apolite Mineral Company, near Minot, Maine.
Although Maine has long been celebrated for its beautiful
tourmalines, this appears be an exceptional one, and was
valued at 1,200 dols.

The recent advance in the prices of watch glasses is to be
attributed to the fact that a union has now been formed
by those large houses who, until recently, have been cut-
ting each other's throats. It cannot be denied that it is a
standing disgrace to us that we do not manufacture watch
glasses in this country, where we have such a supply of fine
material, and have always been noted for fine glas.-;.

166

THE WATCHMAKER, JEWELER AND SILVERSMITH.

[February 1, 1892.

<aJ\ 3tanc[arc[ of ©lime for tlpe

®y/orfSl.

( Concluded from page 77.)

WITH these objects in view, a map has been pre-
pared -which shows the position of the 24-hour
meridians, and indicates, in a general way, the
country or section of country to which any particular
hour-meridian has greatest proximity. It would greatly
advance the unification of time throughout the world, and
promote the common good of mankind, if every nation,
with all convenient speed, would take means to select the
hour-meridians on which its reckoning ol time may be
based. To show that England is somewhat behind the
times, I may mention that at the last Session of Parliament
a Bill was introduced by a private member on petition of
the Canadian Institute and others, with the object of
permitting and legalising the new system of reckoning-
time ; but the matter being httle understood the Bill was
withdrawn. Now that the principles of the system are set
forth in a memorandum which is endorsed by the highest
authorities in the service of the Home Government, and
the Home Government has seen fit to bring the matter to
the attention of the Dominion Government, I would
respectfully recommend that a Bill similar to that intro-
duced last Session be again presented, this time as a
Government measure. This would not compel the use of
the new system, but merely permit and define it. The
preamble of the Bill introduced into the Senate of Canada,
1890, sets forth that — " Whereas on the invitation of the
President and Congress of the United States of America,
an International Conference was held at Washington in
1884, consisting of duly -appointed delegates from twenty-
five nations, at which Canada was duly represented, to
determine certain leading principles, by which the in-
habitants of the world could have a common system of
reckoning time ; and whereas the said Conference, after
prolonged deliberation, unanimously passed resolutions
embodying the principles which should govern all nations
as to the measurement and rotation of time, and recom-
mended the meridian passing through the Royal Observatory
at Greenwich, England, as a prime or initial meridian for
the purpose of a Time-Zero; and whereas the "Hour-
Meridian System," commonly called Standard Time, now
in general use in Canada, and the 24-hour notation em-
ployed in operating the Government railways of Canada,
and the Canadian Pacific Railway from Lake Superior to
Vancouver, are in harmony with the said resolutions and
recommendations of the said International Conference ;
and whereas petitions have been presented to Parliament,
urging that it would be in the general public interest to
have these reforms in the measurement and notation of
time legalised and sanctioned by Parliament ; and whereas
since the general adoption throughout Canada of the mode
of reckoning known as Standard Time, doubts have arisen
as to the reckoning which has force in law, and it is ex-
pedient to remove all such doubts ; Therefore Her Majesty,
by and with the advice and consent of the Senate and House
of Commons of Canada, enacts as follows : — I. ' In so far as
Parliament has power to define and control the same, time
throughout Canada shall be reckoned in accordance with
the hour-meridian system, commonly called standard time :
the system of hour-meridians throughout Canada shall be
based on the initial or prime meridian which passes through
the Royal Observatory at Greenwich ; and the reckoning
of time thrc ughout Canada shall be in agreement with the
reckoning of civil time at Greenwich, excepting only with
respect to the commencement of the day and the notation of
the hours, which sball be hereafter provided : in all other
respects the division and subdivision of the day into hours,
minutes, and seconds in Canada shall be synchronous with
the division and subdivision of the day at Greenwich.

II. The commencement of the day, and the notation of the
hours, in the following provinces and territories of Canada,
shall differ from the commencement of the civil day at
Greenwich, and from the notation of the hours of Green-
wich civil time as follows : (a) Prince Edward Island and
Nova Scotia shall be four hours behind the civil time at
Greenwich — that is to say, when it is four by the clock in
the morning at Greenwich the day shall commence
throughout Prince Edward Island and Nova Scotia ; and
when it is twelve by the clock at Greenwich it shall be
eight by the clock throughout Prince Edward Island and
Nova Scotia, (b) New Brunswick, Quebec, and Ontario
shall be five hours behind ; Manitoba, six hours ; and so
on with the provinces. The governor in council may from
time to time make regulation for other territories."

Mr. Evarts introduced a Bill in the Congress of the
United States in January, 1891, respecting the reckoning
of time : " Whereas an Act was passed in 1882 to authorise
the President of the United States to call an International
Conference to fix on, and recommend for universal adop-
tion, a common prime meridian, to be used in the reckoning
of longitude, and in the regulation of time throughout the
world." The conference was held at Washington in 1884 ;
twenty-five nations were represented by duly-appointed
delegates. Resolutions were passed embodying the prin-
ciples which should govern the measurement and notation
of time, and it was recommended that the meridian should
pass through Greenwich as the prime meridian of all
nations. The "hour-meridian system" was also ap-
proved, and is now in general use in the United States.
The principle generally assented to, the hour-meridians,
which constitute the sub-standards for universal time-
reckoning, would be numbered as follows : —

Anti-prime meridian 180° east and west from prime meridian
"Zero."

ur Meridian

165° East Long.

numb1'- 1

Unus

) j

150°

Duo

) 5

135°

Tres

J >

120°

Quatuor

105°

Qui r. que

1 1

90°

Sex

) f

75°

Septum

> ,

60°

Ooto

, j

45°

Novern

30°

Decern

15°

Undecim

0° Prime Merid. numb*- 12

Duodecim

15° West Lons>\ numb'1 13

Tredecim

, ,

30°

Quatuordecim

45°

Quindecim

60°

Sedecim

75°

Septomdecim

90°

(Jetodecim

105°

Novemdecim

> >

120°

Viginti

135°

Viginti unus

150°

Viginti duo

105°

Viginti tres

Anti-prime i

aeridian 180° east a

nd west longit

ide. "Zero."

At the annual meeting of the Special Committee on
Uniform Standard Time of the American Society of Civil
Engineers, January 21st,. 1891, it was brought to the
notice of the society that the Government of the
United States had not taken any action on the resolutions
and recommendations of the International Conference held
in Washington in 1884, and that as standard time so
universally adopted in civil life throughout North America
is in complete accord with the resolutions of the confer-
ence, it would be in the public interest to have the recom-
mendations authoritatively recognised by Act of Congress.
The committee submitted a detailed statement, establish-
ing that a majority of railway managers in the United
States and Canada were in favor of the 24-hour nota-
tion, viz. : — 1. Presidents, vice-presidents, and general
managers, 135 ; 2. General superintendents, 77 ; S.
Superintendents, 114 ; 4. General traffic managers, 12 ;
5. Engineers, 65.

Febkuary 1, 1892.]

THE WATCHMAKER, JEWELEE AND SILVERSMITH.

167

Bankruptcy Record.

Lewis, John, 39, Ynyshir Road, Ynyshir, Jeweler. Receiving
Order and Adjudication : Dec. 24, 1891.

Cohen, Lawrence (trading as Cohen and Company), 48, Hatton
Garden, London, E.C., Watch Material Dealers. First
meeting : Jan. 5, 1892. Public examination : 34, Lincoln's
Inn Fields, Feb. 3, 1892.

List of Principal Creditors —

Breakspear, J. E.
Blanckensee, J. S.
Cohen, S.
Cohen, Mrs. F.

Eder, M

Haller, T

Judda and Co.
Lauffer, C.

Myers, M

Pitchi and Gunther ...
Rey aud Son ...
Rasmussen, Webb, and Co.
Weill, L., and Co. ...

Woolf, L

Woolf, M

Armstrong, B. C.
Booth and Son
Booth Bros.
Benton, H. H.
Cox Bros.
Hands and Son
Levetus, E. M.
Male and Jones
Tanndy and Rudge ...
Hawley, J., and Son ...
Allan and Lawler

Batt, J.

Richardson, W.
Usher, William

London

Birmingham

Coventry

Dublin

Sheffield

)»
Swansea

Merzbach, Lang, and Fellheimer
Perrier, M. A. ...
Allann, Mrs. ...
Liabilities on bills

Partly Secured Creditors.

London
Dublin

£ s. d.

45 16 2
63 7 4
70 0 0

250 0 0

500 0 0

85 4 2

258 2 10

41 13 6

394 15 8

85 12 0

55 17 3
196 16 7
287 8 8
463 6 10
240 0 0

56 15 0
40 15 7

46 2 9
48 12 0

141 0 0

111 17 0

48 1 0

96 0 0

54 9 0

118 0 6

450 0 0

108 13 0

92 14 2

507 4 0

£ s. d.

309 7 0

210 17 1

183 7 8

3,342 11 1

Cohen, Hyman, 20, Trafalgar Street, Leeds, Jeweler. Adjudi-
cation : Jan. 13. First Meeting : Jan. 29. Public Ex-
amination : County Court, Leeds, Feb. 9.

Dickinson, William Richard, 20, Manchester Road, Burnley,
and Dickinson, Charles George, 19, Carr Road, and 26,
Manchester Road, Nelson, formerly trading as W. and C.
Dickinson, 20, Manchester Road, Burnley, and 26, Man-
chester Road, Nelson, Watchmakers, Gold and Silver-
smiths, and Jewelers. Adjudication : Dec. 19.

Fekan, Stephen, Jeweler, late 15, Victoria Square, Whitby,
now 28, Summer Hill Terrace, Birmingham. Adjudication :
Jan. 6. First Meeting : Jan. 19. Examination : County
Court, Birmingham, Feb. 4 at 2.

Kleiser, Anthony, 55, Oxford Street, Reading, Berks, Watch
and Clock Maker.

List of Principal Creditors —

Fehrenback, M. ... ... ... London

Little, J. ... ... ... ... ,,

Silverston and Co. ... ... ... Birmingham

Holmes, J. J. ... ... ... ... ,,

Lewis Bros. ... ... ... ... ,,

Usher, W Reading

Kleiser, M. L ... ... ... ,,

Burkle, Joseph ... ... ... Schonenback

£ s. d.

165 0 0

28 0 0

48 18 0

43 14 3

23 11 0

36 0 0

41 0 0

30 0 0

Moore, John Thomas, 120, Preston New Road, and 19, North-
gate, Blackburn, Lancaster, Watchmaker and Jeweler.
Adjudication: Dec. 29, 1891. Receiving Order: Dec. 7.
First Meeting : Jan. 6. Examination : Jan. 6.

Rosenthal, Clara, trading as J. Rosenthal and Son, 58, Swan
Street, and 320, Cheetham Hill Road, Manchester, Whole-
sale Jeweler, widow. Receiving Order and Adjudication :
Dec. 15. First Meeting : Ogden's Chambers, 97, Bridge
Street, Manchester, Jan. 7, 1892, at 3. Public Examina-
tion : Court House, Manchester, Jan. 20, 1892, at 11.

List of Principal Creditors —

Maas, Charles .. .

Maas, C, Mrs

Allday, Henry and Son

Aaron, D. I., Mrs

Emanuel, Alfred

Emanuel, Elias

Goldsmid, M. J

Griffiths, A. G

Page, Edwin...

Michaels, M

Hawley, John and Son
Hill, Thomas and Co.

Wright, L. I

Mercier, E.

Bankers' Claims

Fully Secured Creditors.

Sechel, Leon, and Co.

Liverpool and Investment Building

Society ... Liverpool 175 0 0

Deakin, Colonel (Executors of) ... Manchester 4,000 0 0

Partly Secured Creditors.

Emanuel Bros. Birmingham 2,055 0 0

(Estimated value of Security, £50.)
Preferential Creditor —
Deakin, Colonel (Executors of) ... Manchester 20 0 0

£ s.

London

145 0

84 0

Birmingham

. 118 17

80 0

70 10

62 2

80 0

34 6

98 1

Cheetham

471 2

Coventry

478 17

175 0

Manchester

700 0

Paris

79 9

441 0

litors.

£ s.

London

2,000 0

Skerritt, Robert, High Street, York Town, and 3, Kelsey
Cottages, Blackwater, late 168, Stamford Street, Black-
friars, Watch and Clock Maker, Jeweler, and Optician.
Receiving Order : Jan. 9.

Taffinder, Frank, 40, High Street, Rotherham, Watchmaker
and Jeweler.

List of Principal Creditors —

Little and Co. ...
Stauffer, Son and Co....
Blanckensee and Co. ...
Constantine and Floyd
Loveridge Bros.
Foster, — ■
Ingleby, Jos. ...
Chrimes, R.

Taffinder, A

Fully Secured Creditor

London
Birmingham

Manchester

Rotherham

£ s. d.

36 0 0

43 1 0

80 0 0

32 15 9

20 0 0

193 0 0

298 0 0

120 0 0

40 0 0

Administration Order.
Bellamy, George, 33, Norfolk Street, East Wisbeach, Cam-
bridge, .£38 15s. 0d., Watchmaker. Twenty-one Creditors.
Dec. 15. No. 5.

Deeds of Arrangement.
Abbatt, John Joseph, 15, Stricklandgate, and 32, Stramongate,
Kendal, Westmoreland, Watchmaker and Jeweler. Trustee :
Tom G. Thompson, 51, Highgate, Kendal, Accountant.
Deed of assignment of personal estate, including a contin-
gent interest in a sum of £200, payable on death of debtor's
mother (he surviving). Dated Jan. 11th; filed Jan. 13th ;
unsecured liabilities, £360 19s. 8d. ; estimated net assets,
£116.

168

THE WATCHMAKER, JEWELER AND SILVERSMITH;

[February 1, 1892.

Cooke, 0. E., 92, Paradise Street, and 43, Clareinont Road,
Liverpool, Wholesale Jeweler, Importer of Clocks, Watches,
etc. Trustee : S. T. Rogers, North John Street, Liverpool,
('.A. Dated Dec. 8th ; riled Dec. 15th ; unsecured liabili-
ties, £'1,169 7s. 6d. ; estimated net assets, £'370.

List of Principal Creditors-

Michael Bros. ...

Terrier, M. A

Bi'itton, B. H., and Sons
Collins, Charles H. ...
Levetus Bros. ...
Pearce and Thompson
Tindleton and Sous ...
Rolason Bros.
Hawley, John, and Son

Smyth, J

Wright, L. J

Mather, Mrs. E

Wigfall. John, and Co.

Ferguson, Mathias Valentine, Sugar Island, Newry, Armagh,
Watchmaker and Jeweler. Petition for arrangement.
Dated Dec. 30th, 1891 ; filed Jan. 4th, 1892 ; unsecured
liabilities, £132 19s. 8d. ; estimated net assets, £150.

£ s.

London

32 3

jj.

88 8

Birmingham

41 19

... )j

25 3

... ji

380 0

... j)

39 4

... )f

32 19

... ,,

26 6

Coventry

24 12

Liverpool

22 7

Manchester

137 14

... ))

40 0

Sheffield

44 6

Kuner, Isidor, 52, Taff Street, Pontypridd, and High Street,
Cowbridge, Glamorgan, Watchmaker and Jeweler. Trustee :
George G. Poppleton (Poppleton and Appleby), 26, Corpora-
tion Street, Birmingham, C.A. Secured creditors, £350.
Dated Jan. 2nd; filed Jan. 8th; unsecured liabilities,
£1,095 2s. 4d. ; estimated net assets, £1,399 Is. 3d.

List of Pri/ncipal Creditors —

Bayliss, Gilles, and Co.
Cooper, H. J., and Co.
Dernier Bros, and Co.

Holmes, W.J

Widmer and Co.
Austin and Steeley ...
Ahronsberg Bros.

Breholz, D

Brockington Bros.
Needham, T. ...

Wallis, G. and T. E

Nicbins Bros. ...
Pearson, T., and Son...
Briggs, W., and Co. ...
Bankers' Claims

London

£ s.
60 10
33 11
63 0
257 1
42 16

d.
9
0
6
4
6

Birmingham 55 17 11

31
40

32 16
46 15

Bristol

Coventry

Sheffield

45
23

20
73
50

Robinsox, Moses, 31, Broad Street, Hanley, Stafford, Dealer in
Jewelry. Trustee: Solomon Hillner, 130, Bristol Road,
Birmingham. Dated Dec. 22nd ; filed Dec. 29th ; unsecured
liabilities, £267 15s. 9d. ; estimated net assets, £314 16s. 2d.

Stone, George, 182, Worcester Street, Bromsgrove, Worcester,
Watchmaker and Jeweler. Trustee : F. E. Wattis, Lower
Temple Street, Birmingham, Factor. Dated Jan. 2nd; filed
Jan. 4th ; unsecured liabilities, £131 5s. 8d. ; estimated
net assets, £45.

Notices to Creditors,

Edgco.mbe, James, 65, George Street, Plymouth, Jeweler. First
and final dividend of 8s. ll|d., at F. W. Dawe, Hick's and
Company, Wilts and Dorset Bank Chambers, Plymouth
Jan. 14th.

Fehbenbach, Pius, 21, Solway Terrace, and 11, Brown's Lane,
Carlisle, Watchmaker and Jeweler. First and final dividend
oE23. lid., at Official Receiver's, Carlisle, Dec. 30th, 1891.

Hoddell, James (deceased), late Chapel Fields, Coventry,
Watch Manufacturer. Supplemented dividend of 4r\jd., at
Official Receiver's, Coventry, Dec. 15th, 1891.

Keyzor, George Benjamin, 39, Hatton Garden, Holborn,
London, W.C., Clock Manufacturer. Proofs for intended
dividend by Jan. 30th. Trustee : E. L. Hough, 33, Carey
Street, W.C.

Myers, Joseph, 14, (formerly known as 5) Duke Street
Aldgate, and 13, Salisbury Road, Dalston, Wholesale
Optician and Jeweler. Second dividend of Is. 5d., at
Hasluck and Co.'s, 17, Holborn Viaduct, E.C., C.A., Dec.
7th, or any subsequent Wednesday.

Paul, Charles (trading as Armstrong, M., and Company), now
or late of 15, Grosvenor Terrace, Latchford, and Bewsy
Chambers, Warrington, both Lancaster, Jeweler. First
and final dividend of 2s. 6T\d., at Ogden Chambers, Bridge
Street, Manchester, Jan. 7th.

Young, George Herbert, 129, Somers Road, Southsea, Watch-
maker and Jeweler. First and final dividend of Is. 9d., at
Official Receiver's, Portsmouth, Dec. 22nd.

Dissolutions of Partnerships,

Blackburn and Rasmussen, 15, Rupert Street, Haymarket,
Manufacturing Silversmiths, Jan. 8.

Coleman and Tammadge, 4 and 5, St. Augustine's Square,
Bristol, Pawnbrokers and Silversmiths. Dec. 31, 1891.
Debts by George Tammadge, who continues under the same
style .

Fullerton, Duncan, and Shearer, 13, Royal Exchange, Glas-
gow, Wholesale Silversmiths and Electro-Platers. Dec. 31,
1891. Debts by Duncan Fullerton, who continues in. his
own name.

Kay, Jones, and Co., 4, Foregate Street, Worcester, AVholesale
Jewelers, Watch and Clock Manufacturers, Silversmiths,
Watch and Clock Factors, General Dealers, and Club Pro-
prietors. Dec. 31, 1891. Debts by William Kilbourne Kay.

Marshall, W. and Co., 134, Princes Street, Edinburgh,
Jewelers, Silversmiths, and Watchmakers. Dec. 31, 1891.
By retirement of John Dalrymple Marshall. Debts by
Thomas Rymer Marshall, who continues under the same
style.

Myers, John and Co, 131 and 135, Westminster Bridge Road,
Watchmakers and Jewelers. Dec. 30, 1891. Debts by
Henry Myers, who continues under the same style.

APPLICATIONS FOR PATENTS.

[Ecpress!;/ compiled and contributed for this Journal b'j. Messrs. W. P. Thompson
and Co., Patent Agents, 6, Bank Street, Manchester ; 6, Lord Street,
Liverpool, and 323, High Holborn, Londo l, W.C.)

21,309.
21,704.

21,403.
21,794.

21,681.—

21,694.

21,889.

22,032.

22,808.

-" Improved long-range barometer," J. Joly, Dublin,
7th December, 1891.

-" Improvements in the construction of telescopes for
use with surveying and other instruments," W. Wil-
son, London, 11th December, 1891.
■" Improvements in means for illuminating clock dials,"
J. Chew, Birmingham, 8th December, 1891.
-" An improved method of setting diamonds and other
stones for cutting purpose?," F. Kegel, London, 12th
December, 1891.

" Improved locking stud or clasp for attaching collar
to shirt and such -like purposes." J. X. Ganz and
J. W. McKnight Parsons, Swansea, 11th December,
1891.

■— " Improvements in binocular glasses," M. Neuerburg,
London.

— " Improved lock or fastening for bracelets and other
articles," G. E. Laucelott, London, 15th December,
1891.

— "Fastening device for bracelets and the like," A.
Miirrle, London, 16th December.

— " An improved calendar clock," T. Haycock, Derby-
shire, 31st December.

Prof. Marey contributes an interesting article on
Chronophotography as applied to moving objects to the
Revue G&nirale den Sciences, a translation of which appears
in Nature, of January 7th. This essay details methods
employed, which were not the same as those of Mr.
Muybridge. Ifc is unnecessary to remark that all vendors
of photographic instruments should keep themselves
acquainted with what is being done in tho world for
which they cater.

^atcl^akcr, jeweler

Entered at Stationers' Hall.]

Edited by W. J. LEWIS ABBOTT, F.G.8.

[Registered for Transmission Abroad.

Vol. XVII.— No. 9.]

MARCH 1, 1892.

Subscription 5s. per Annum. Post Free-
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e G^ofufion oj? ffte eKiLiLre^
d>CL&ftef.

HE paper read the other evening by Mr. J.
W. Tonks at the Society of Arts, which we
reprint in full elsewhere, is one of very
great interest, and consists of extremely
valuable and useful information. This has
been acquired by many years of careful
study and research, although we cannot
help remarking that had the esteemed
lecturer applied the same historic criticism to his proto-
type of the address casket — the Bezabel-Aholiab ark — he
would not have made use of unqualified assertions in con-
nection with it. Nor would he have referred to the thin
poles by which it was carried palanquin fashion if he had
for one moment attempted to estimate the weight of gold
in the two cherubim alone, each of which were made out
of one piece of gold, and of such dimensions that the bodies
and wings extended over a space, the base of which was a
minimum of forty -five inches. A moment's reflection must
show such a masterpiece to have weighed tons ! Nor do
we think the proportions 2| x 1| x 1£ can be claimed
for the Greek ratios. One instance this moment in our
minds does not support it, when

Behind (Penelope) her train the polish'd coffer brings,
Which held th' alternate brass and silver rings.

The proportions are altogether too square and ungraceful
for Greek.

There is one thing, however, in connection with this
prototype, and that is the casket function has been
retained with sufficient integrity to justify its selection.
The ark, or chest or coffer, in Hebrew and Greek (dpK<uv,
to keep off) means, of a place of safety, and as such
it has been used from the very earliest times ; and just
as in the case of the evolution of the palace from the
cave, so the environment of the casket has modified
its structure, and the kind of treasure it was intended
to preserve has left its mark behind it ; whether it was
the luxurious gold be-gemmed casket bespeaking the
wealth and affluence of Eome, in the preservation of the
beard of Nero ; or the more humble encolpia of the Early

170

THE WATCHMAKER, JEWELER AND SILVERSMITH.

[March 1, 1892.

Christian, whose Religious emblems would be more ex-
travagantly represented in tbe ecclesiastical chasses of
later date. The flowers of each period of art have been
employed to express the esteem in which the enclosed treasure
was held, whether it was Indian, Egyptian, Greek, Byzantine,
or the enamels of France or England ; and as we trace
the casket through the ages Ave find it becoming more and
more associated with its contained treasure. It is
gratifying to see that Englishmen who are sometimes
said to be less lovers of their country than those of the
other three divisions of Great Britain, have been the first
to encase in gold, as their greatest treasures, the certificates
of their citizenship in the sea-girt Isle. Such, we consider
to be the simple history of the evolution, and the definition of
the function of the ideal casket of to-day ; a monument of our
art, a record of our nation to those who shall come after us
— a volume which shall speak through the ages of the honor
that we showed to our great, our noble, and our good.

But unfortunately there are elements in the environment
of the casket to-day conducive not only to retrogade meta-
morphoses, but even to its dying out in a short time hence.
As we admiringly gaze on the examples of the past we are
struck, at first sight, with the profundity of leisure they
bespeak. There is no sign in them of the everlasting full
gallop, steam or electric speed, marked on every action of
to-day. There is no stinting of material to try to make
up some of the loss occasioned for the purpose of competing
with a brother craftsman in obtaining the subjective advan-
tages arising from advertisement. Alas, no ! the conditions
are indeed different. In bygone days the artist sat to his
work with his love-guided fingers'; time was secondary,
pains not thought of — achievement was his goal. Com-
pare with that a to-day-born casket, and the conditions
under which it is ushered into existence. A city becomes
aware that in two or three months' time a man whom
they would like to honour will be in their midst. A
great part of the intervening time will be wasted upon
the to be or not to be — a casket. At last the time is
drawing nigh, and it is decided there shall be one. A
committee may be appointed to carry it out, or the choice
may be left to the whole corporation. Invitations are
immediately sent out, couched in words of greatest haste
and hurry, to a number of jewelers. Upon receipt of inti-
mation the jeweler calls up the designer, and gives him his
instructions something after this style : " Now, Smith,
here is a casket order, and we must get it. It's for Baron
Northpassage, the great African explorer. He was born at
House-in-the-Wood. I don't know much about him or the
place, but you must find it out and let me have the sketch
by Wednesday morning, as the council meet that day at
twelve o'clock." The next twenty-four hours are spent in
getting together the heraldry of the self-made man — the
archaeology, the legends, and the associations of the city :
its arts, its industries, and history. And from the labyrin-
thian mazes of this hetrogenious conglomeration a new
creation is begotten, which shall successfully compete with
a half-a-dozen or more other competitors in producing the
maximum show for the minimum cost, and please the
majority of a council of men, not one of whom perhaps
have even seen a sketch before in their lives. Then
comes the trying ordeal of those who have to exhibit
and explain the mysteries that are by-and-bye to
lie visibly hidden in the production. Councillor number
one begins : " Oh Jones! Never heard the name of that
firm before ; have you ever done any of this work before ?
Will this be better than the one you say you made for
Lord So-and-so ? What is gold worth an ounce ? How
many ounces of gold do you reckon there will be in that ?
What ? Why that will be nearly half profit ! " Then
follows an explanation that results in showing that the
thing will leave but a very small margin — in fact, not pay.
"But seethe advertisement!" says the civic-tradesman.
" I reckon it ought to be worth a hundred pounds to you ;
but, I say, what's the meaning of that thing at the top? "

Then number two, who has often tried to get in a question,
insists upon an examination, and so o:i, till in the end it
would be difficult to say who had asked the most irrelevant
questions. But let us pause for a moment and ask, even
if granted these were a council of the wise men of Greece,
how would it be possible for a sketch like this, the work of
a few hours, to represent a work of art ? At most, it can
only be a sketch, the exact result from which it would be
impossible to predict, Let the reformation commence in
the weakest spot. Let committees be appointed qualified
to give advice upon these matters ; and there are many of
the highest authorities of the day who would only too
willingly give their services. " Let awards be offered that
will tempt men to produce designs, which in themselves
shall be works of art, the conception of months of travail.
" In times of peace prepare for war," says the adage. In
the same manner a city might always have a suitable de-
sign on hand which, with the filling in of a few blank spaces,
would identify it with the recipient.

Reco <#mifation

urquoix^e.

l(wjOT long ago we were shown by way of special
privilege a charming colored turquoise of exceptional
size, nearly three-quarters of an inch by half an inch,
beautifully oval, perhaps a little flat, but it was quite free
from blemish, and of a delicate robin's egg blue. We
should not like to say how much the gentleman gave for it,
but three figures were asked for it, and the otherwise
imperturbable merchant gloated over his possession like an
Indian. " Did you ever see such a picture?" said he, as he
cocked his head slightly on one side to feast upon its
beauties. " For Heaven's sake mind you don't drop
it!" It certainly looked something to make a fuss
about. It had the characteristic soft waxy lustre, the
crypto-granular texture, and a color only seen on rare
occasions. " Don't take it up," he continued, " for fear of
an accident!" "All right," we responded, and folding
up the paper, remarked, " don't tell anybody we have seen
it." " What do you think about it ? " " Why, we think what
we just expressed; we have not seen it, we have only looked
at it on the paper. Before we give an opinion we
should like to take it in our hands and give it a
farther examination." " What do you mean ? Don't
you think it is a turquoise?" " Well, candidly speak-
ing, we don't ! " " Not a turquoise ? Did you ever
see a fine turquoise in your life ? Did you turn the stone
over and see the little fragments of matrix at the back ? V
"Well," .we remarked, "we don't wish to offend you or
hurt your feelings. We saw something at the back which
we did not consider matrix." "Don't be a fool, man! " he
retorted, and the change of expression that had come
over his countenance since his head was cocked admir-
ingly over that stone was a study. " We will endeavour
not to be," we responded ; " but will you let us look at it
and examine it?" "Look at it all you like, but don't
get damaging it." And forthwith we began making an
exami lation of it. In the same state of mind now, he
interposed, before we had scarcely got it in our hands-
well, not exactly — "Ah, I knew you were wrong ! " "What,
wrong in doubting ? Yes, we were ; there is no doubt
about it." "Did you ever see such a pretty stone?"
" Well, we must say it is Very pretty, but we always prefer
things undyed." " Undyed, man ; off again ! Do you
call that dyed? " " We do. It is nothing more nor less
than dyed chalcedony," It is the outcome of the grape
jewelry. A demand for those, and the cameo flowers that
followed, directed attention to the production of variously-
colored chalcedonies with different surface lustres, and this
is one of their achievements.

[Since the above was written a specimen has been
obtained for Jermyn Street Museum, where it can be
seen with the quartz in the horse-shoe case.]

March 1, 1892.]

THE WATCHMAKER, JEWELER AND SILVERSMITH.

171

fJotes f\bout Jou/17. Qouptry jfot^.

Trade is gradually, although perhaps in some

The siato quarters very gradually, recovering from the

of Trade. alm0st hopeless condition into which it was

cast by the death of the Duke of Clarence.

Things are brightening up again ; the Court is moving,

and fashionable life is active once more ; weddings are

taking place, and the accompanying present-making going

on.

*M, Of,

Efforts for a spring trade are also appearing,

The and one sees prominence given to a few

WoVeiue*. articles, and even new objects of attraction

occupying prominent places in the windows of

the West End. After a year of rest the date idea has come

again to the front, especially in the form of diamond

Roman numerals round a flexible bracelet. There are

also numerous designs of 1892 in brooches, some of which

are great improvements on the 1890. The revival will

help the output of some of the latter with the last figure

altered.

Elated by the success achieved by the
orehiti- numerous varieties of these floral phenomena
ania. [n gerns, their sphere has been extended to
silver and E. P. ware, in which case they
are produced in magnificent Doulton ware, and employed as
butter-dishes, salt-cellars, and numerous other charming and
useful articles. Some of the former are beautifully mounted,
the leaves and stalks being of silver, and the flower, which
forms the dish, of china. In passing through the galleries
of Messrs. Atkin Bros., we noticed some further additions
of art china ware. One egg-shaped spoon warmer was
very handsomely mounted, and we were informed it was
meeting with a good sale. While speaking of this im-
portant establishment, reference might be made to the fine
"old Dutch" Netsnkie-covkeA, silver - mounted bottles.
These are to be seen in many of the leading West End
stocks, and from inquiries we find they are selling very
well. We further'hear that single asparagus tongs — (for
holding the single stick) are selling ; so also are ham-
holders and marrow-scoops. There are also several new
ideas in the champagne bottle-holders, and also in ice
compartments, in which the ice is not brought into contact
with the liquid surrounding it, which it is intended to
cool.

Tortoise -shell goods are especially to the front
Tortoise- m a hundred forms, bon-bonniers, caskets,
shell "to brushes, trays, and a host of things, in some
the rout. ^ which the size is so large as to suggest the
idea of the necessity of the inverted commas.
Of course we must leave this matter to the respective
vendors. We suppose all know what is meant by Tortoise-
shell, and would not knowingly sell an article as such
whose claims could not be established to the usual trade
term-. This makes us ask if people know what tortoise-
shell really is ; and it might be useful to suggest a visit to
the Natural History Museum, where a ramble amongst the
chelonia would soon convince one of the impossibility of
the articles being the shell of the tortoise.

We also hear of a great deal more silver gilt

imposing being sold, and almost every high-class house

Silver «iit. jg exhibiting a window more or less composed

of it, from the large pieces belonging to dinner
sets down to sugar-and-creams.

aLTOGETHER there is not much to grumble at in the
Coventry trade at the present. It is true there are
no large orders, and things are cut a bit finer, but almost
everyone is going steadily along. There is also one great
consolation which always has a good effect— people' are
hopeful and cheerful, and under these conditions new
efforts always burst forth, and buds of ideas blossom into
full flower. If there is one thing more than another that
injures trade all round it is the preaching up of the doleful
end of everything in a very near future. Under these
conditions men who are really doing well are made to
believe that everything is very bad.

'HAT a privilege it is to grumble ! There are several
^YY* prominent people now growling because the cele-
brated Market Hall clock and that of St. John's, Coventry,
go so nearly alike, always striking together, that one is
unable to count the hours. There is many a large city
that cannot boast one good clock. Surely having two is
no calamity.

WESSRS. A. and S. HURST, of 34, Union Street,
X7P. Oldham, owing to the increase of the jobbing trade,
have found it necessary to augment their staff, and
have now secured the services of a well-known Coventry
man to act as manager in the watch repairing department.
They have recently added some new and expensive
machinery, and are making a speciality of pivoting in all
its branches, employing men exclusively on this work.
Under the new arrangements they inform us they are able
to make some reductions on old prices, and are giving
special attention to orders by post.

V|7HE exact state of the Birmingham Scientific and
e)Jfo Philosophical trade is not easy to gauge, owing to the
confliction of the reports. Several letters we have
received report trade as improving, while others, especially
barometer and thermometer makers, complain very much.
The Spectacle trade, on the other hand, is fairly busy,
although not so much so as the Photographic. From
the orders on hand, and the growing popularity of amateur
photography, it is contemplated that a good season is open-
ing. Nor have Electric Instrument makers much cause to
grumble.

jN Sheffield the trade in Cameras is also looking up ; but
. the spectacle trade,, especially the lens grinding
industry, is not so active.

N Manchester the trade all round is perhaps not far
below the average ; in many respects it is above. A
new method of extracting oxygen from the atmosphere
by the Parkinson process has been patented, and a company
formed to supply it in compressed condition in cylinders.
These cylinders have now entirely supplanted the cumber-
some old-fashioned gas-bags, and are far less liable . to
accident. Still, for all that, the lantern trade is not so busy
as it might be.

The Medical Press in observing "prescribing and adver-
tising opticians are becoming a nuisance in London, and
will soon require to be looked after by the Medical Defence
Union," brought forward some interesting correspondence
on what is being done in this line, and it is more than
probable that something will be done by the medical
societies to improve our present laws in connection with
optical prescribing.

172

THE WATCHMAKER, JEWELER AND SILVERSMITH.

[March 1, 1S02.

Bir/T\i9^am ]\[ot^.

(BY OUR OWN CoKRESrONDENT.)*

'1TH the Birmingham watch and jewelry trades
February is nearly always a quiet month. The fill-
ing up of stocks, which generally gives an air of
briskness to January, is of course largely specula-
tive, and the second month of the year is too early to form
a definite idea of what the year's trade will be. Hence
February operations are tentative and more a matter of
feeling the way than downright earnest business. And
with the majority of us here the month just ended has
been quieter even than usual for February. Not that this
is a new development, or indicative of fresh complications.
It is simply the natural result of the tendencies noted in
last month's remarks. I just now said "the majority of
us," advisedly, as there are two or three houses who always
profess to be doing big business. No matter how bad
things are, or how short of sales other people may be, those I
refer to are always fully employed, and always selling large
parcels. Of course, I do not doubt their word, and am
willing to accept their statements as correct. Still, as a
consolation to those who are not quite so fortunate I would
add, in confidence, that I am often inclined to take this tall
talk as a matter of the " wish being father to the thought."
It is, however, a very good fault — this putting of a good
face to the front and looking cheerful even under depress-
ing circumstances. In spite of this, I am sorry to say that
I cannot alter my verdict on the month as having been an
exceptionally bad one.

3fcTET I am a bit more hopeful of the present month.
|Vt The gloom, I believe, is disappearing, and as the time
MF of Court mourning comes to a speedy end, our trades
will soon feel the benefit of the renewed activity of
Society life. I cannot say that I anticipate any special results
just yet. There will, I am afraid, be nothing startling till
after Easter. But what I mean is that the excessive de-
pression will now lift, and we shall do our usual March
business.

I HE annual dinner of the Birmingham Jewelers' Asso-
ciation— postponed from a previous date — is to be
held on the 18th inst. The Right Hon. Joseph
Chamberlain, M.P., has promised to be present " if
his engagements will permit." This is a big event for
the Birmingham trade, and I hope they will not be dis-
appointed, as Mr. Chamberlain's speeches on these occa-
sions for the last two or three years have always been
exceedingly interesting. If he addresses us this year we
may expect some reference to the Bankruptcy Laws as
referring to the special condition of the Jewelry trade.

WHE annual soiree of Messrs. Payton and Sons, of Vyse
Street, came off on the 12th ult. at the Victoria
Hall, Aston. This is always an enjoyable and
successful evening, and the present occasion was no
exception to the rule.

eNE of the most important items of news for the last
month is the great robbery of watches, etc., from the
premises of Mr. W. J. Holmes, of Hockley Hill. The
thieves appear to have got in during Saturday night,
and to have spent the Sunday leisurely in ransacking the
place. From all appearance they well knew the weak
point at which to effect an entrance, and were familiar
with the whole run of the place. So far no clue as to
their identity has yet been found, nor has any of the goods
been recovered.

• We must not be understood as endorsing all, or neccssarl.y any, of the views of
our con fepondent.

} NOTICE a splendid new sign in Frederick Street — quite
a mammoth among the jewelers' signs, which, as a
rule, are small and insignificant. The new firm are
bullion dealers and refiners. I have always thought
that these departments of our trade were already well and
sufficiently done in Birmingham, but I presume there is
still room for another business.

@UR Jewelers' Association evidently pride themselves
somewhat on their action in the matter of D. Maurice,
as they have taken the trouble of having the report
of the proceedings reprinted and posted round to the
trade, while as a matter of actual fact the case resulted
in what was virtually a verdict for the defendant ; yet it
was equally satisfactory to the prosecuting association, as
the vexed question of ' ' Pawning " as a custom of the
trade was authoritatively and emphatically settled in
accordance with their wishes. The following is the gist
of this matter : — " In reply to an observation of counsel,
Mr. Commissioner Kerr said that he repudiated the doctrine
which appeared to have been laid down in the case of the
Queen v. Imperiali, and he was of opinion that the pledging
of the property under those conditions was a distinct con-
travention of the 15th sub-section of the 11th section of
the Debtors' Act."

JAM glad that this matter has thus been definitely laid
down, as the promulgation of the idea that indis-
criminate pawning of stock — paid for or not — was
not only customary but legal, would of necessity
operate seriously to the disadvantage of the trade at large.
Especially would it be likely to influence weak and un-
steady members to take refuge in a demoralising system ;
to the equal detriment of themselves and their creditors.

lfrNOTHER good action of the Association last month
2M| was the issuing of a circular giving particulars of
HI; the Weights and Scales Acts as relating to our
trades. They show the necessity of having both
scales and weights properly tested and marked by the
authorities. Also they clearly state that Troy weight is a
legal standard — this being a matter upon which some little
doubt seems to have been cast by the prosecutions of
jewelers a few months ago.

6 AST month was quite an educational one for the
jewelers. On February 2nd Mr. J. W. Tonks lec-
tured at the New Church Guild, Handsworth, on
"Japanese Art," and on the 23rd Mr. F. W.
Goldsmith lectured at the same place on " Art Metal
Work." Both these lectures were illustrated by interesting
and valuable specimens of the work treated of, and I am
told they were both instructive and well worth hearing.
Mr. Tonks is a well known and able lecturer on art
matters, but I believe Mr. Goldsmith is a beginner in this
work.

fHE stoppage of a large firm of London merchants has
been a serious blow to several of our manufacturing
houses here. I am told of two or three who are in
for very large amounts. On the other hand, I hear
of several who have had large bills run off quite recently,
so that the stoppage is evidently due to some sudden and
unforseen accident. I understand that it is not due to any
difficulties in the jewelry department of the firm, but to
great losses in quite another way. This is satisfactory so
far, as usually the poor jewelry trade is credited (or per-
haps I ought to say debited) with being the universal cause
of all monetary misfortunes. I have not heard what they
propose doing in this matter, but from what I hear the
creditors are greatly in sympathy with the firm. Next
month, probably, I shall be able to report some satisfactory
settlement.

March 1, 1892.]

THE WATCHMAKER, JEWELER AND SILVERSMITH.

173

Sheffield fiotes.

(By our own Correspondent.)*

YJ7HE name of Mappin is rather a common patronymic in
*■ Hallamshire. Most of those who bear the name are
more or less nearly related to each other. In the
year 1863 one branch of the family carrying on business
in Baker's Hill, as silversmiths, under the title of Mappin
Bros., dissolved partnership ; two of the brothers, Edwin
and Joseph Charles, continuing to trade under the old
name, and a third setting up in business as Mappin and
Webb. An agreement was entered into between the
parties, one of its provisions being an obligation on the
part of the third brother not to use the word " Mappin "
or " Mappin and Co.," without the association of the term
"Webb." Recently Messrs. Mappin and Webb have
adapted the word " Mappin " as a telegraphic address, and
this the firm of Mappin Bros, regard as an infringment
of the agreement in question. The matter has just come
before the Chancery Division of the High Court of Justice,
and has had a somewhat singular conclusion. One of
the defences urged by the defendants was to the effect that
' ' the said agreement has long since been abandoned and
treated as altogether at an end." It is hard to say
whether this was or was not a slip on the part of Messrs.
Mappin and Webb, but in any case the plaintiffs, whose
obligations under the agreement were quite as extensive as
those of their rivals, seized upon it with avidity, and
accepted the freedom offered by the words of the plea. On
that footing, therefore, Mr. Justice Romer dismissed the
action with costs.

lyrR. HENRY TURNER, ivory cutter, of Cambridge
I@l Street, is responsible for the statement that 20,000
elephants are sacrificed annually to supply the
Sheffield trades with ivory. The figures are arrived at
by calculating the amount of ivory used up, and the
average weight per tusk. This seems to pre-suppose that for
every pair of tusks obtained an elephant has to be shot.
This, however, is far from being the case.. Hundreds of
tusks are annually dug out of the sand in Egypt and else-
where that must have belonged to animals which have
long since paid the debt of nature. Making allowance for
this, however, there is too much reason to fear that the
pessimistic notion as to the exhaustion of the source of
ivory supply in the comparatively near f uture has too much
foundation in the probability of things. In the meantime
it is satisfactory to know that in the process of ivory
cutting nothing is wasted. The sweepings of the work-
shops are of considerable value as a fertiliser, while the
clean dust is an article of nourishing diet. Pieces too
small for anything else are used by silversmiths as non-
conductors of heat in tea-pot handles. Among other
interesting objects in Mr. Turner's warehouse, I was
credibly informed that a tusk weighing 132 lbs. had been
sold at the October sales. The price of ivory at these sales
is not always an index of its scarcity or otherwise — the
market being largely controlled by a comparatively small
number of brokers. It not infrequently happens that
vessels known to contain large quantities of ivory are
intentionally delayed at sea in order to miss some
quarterly sale and so maintain the price.

J'HILE politicians are merely ventilating the idea of
old age pensions, the principle is in course of being
carried into practical effect in one of our largest
silver and electro-plate establishments. The firm of
Walker and Hall employ about 800 " hands," and it is
among these that an attempt is about to be made to solve
the problem as to how provision is to be made for the

• We must not be understood as endorsing all, or necessarily an v. of the views of
oar correspondent, who writes on his own rpxponflbil'ty.

closing years of a workman's life. Mr. J. E. Bingham,
J. P., the head of the firm, explained his scheme to a
meeting of his workpeople held at the usual tea-time. As
propounded, the scheme possesses the novel feature of not
requiring any contributions from the class which is to be
benefitted by it. The firm itself finds the whole of the
money. It was felt that to accept contributions from the
workpeople themselves would be to confer upon every
workman leaving the service of the firm a right to demand
his share of the subscriptions paid in, and would thus, in
many cases, constitute a positive inducement to leave the
service of the firm. As this latter was precisely the effect
the scheme was not intended to have, the principals of the
firm decided to find the whole of the money required. To
become entitled to the benefits of the scheme a workman
must have been in the service of the firm twenty-one years,
when he becomes entitled to a pension of 8s. 6d. per week.
Then follows a graduated scale of benefit up to forty years'
service, which entitles a man to 17s. 6d. per week for the
remainder of his life. The fund will be distributed by a
committee partly nominated by the firm and partly elected
by the workpeople. That the working silversmith is no
rolling stone may be gathered from the fact that some
fifty-three men will under the scheme step into benefit at
once. If each firm can solve the problem of age pensions
in this way the State will have little left to do in the
matter.

*E have had occasion in this column more than once
to allude to the important part which young
artisans in the silver trade play in the daily life of
the School of Art. The silver trade of the town in general
may be looked upon as the backbone of that institution.
An association of workmen of one particular firm, that of
Mappin and Webb in Norfolk Street, has, however, been
for some time in existence for the purpose of the more
advanced study of art as applied to their own trades. For
this purpose the leading workmen in the various depart-
ments— engraving, chasing, etching, ivory carving, and
modelling — have been for some time attending classes. It
speaks well for the success of the scheme that so many
men — teachers and students alike — are willing to devotj
so much of their leisure to the prosecution of this scheme
of self -improvement. In connection with the classes a
series of lectures are being given by Mr. Howlden, one of
the managers of the firm, on " The History and Develop-
ment of Art from the Earliest Times." The second lecture
of the series has just been given by Mr. Howlden on " The
Assyrian and Persian Period in Art," and it has been quite
as intelligently appreciated as his previous one upon Egypt.
At the close of the lecture a programme for the " Study of
Persian and Assyrian Art" was arranged for the ensuing

six months.

YT7HERE is a strong probability of an old established
ej® firm in the silver trade ceasing to exist as an indepen-
dent concern before many weeks are over. Men of
middle age still speak of the time when the firm of Henry
Wilkinson and Co. ranked as one of the most respectable
and prosperous in the town. Like many others, how-
ever, the firm does not seem to have benefitted by its
transformation into a limited company. At any rate its
declension may be dated from that event. The process of
decay has been so gradual as to be scarcely perceptible,
but just as the unwelcome truth dawns upon an individual
that he is growing old, so the fact has been reluctantly
realised by this company that its day is past. Some twelve
months ago the state of affairs was discussed at a general
meeting of the shareholders, and the decision was then
arrived at to give the concern another year's trial. That
year has now expired, and the results of its working being
no better, the resolution to wind up the company has been
taken. Failing the disposal of the works as a going con-
cern, the whole will be sold in detail, and the name dis-
appear from the directory.

171

THE WATCHMAKER, JEWELER AND SILVERSMITH.

[March 1, 1892.

©JraaAatParrtic ^JotVti ng&.

(From Our New York Correspondent.)

DON'T believe in grumbling, nor do I in baing a liberal
& discounter of veracity, and so I suppose I must con-
JL fess that, according to accounts received from away all
round, no one at the present time is suffering from
the pressure of business, except in the wrong direction.
That the year opened disappointingly bad is affirmed
throughout this vast continent, and many events have
happened which do not prophesy a very lively state in
many quarters for at least some months yet. All this is
accompanied by a large number of failures of no small
dimensions, some reaching a good sized fifth figure.
. ,# * *

\J/HE class doing the greatest number of lines in the

al.® largest amounts appear to be sneak-thieves. There
have been several clean get-aways with diamond-plunder
which have run into five figures, and but for the admirable
policy of the Jewelers' Security Alliance, the bounce would
never have been run down. In England you don't perhaps
realize the value of such an association, as I don't remember
seeing the report of a half a dozen cases in the Watch-
maker and Jeweler, although I have been a constant
reader for the last ten years ; but here in America
robberies were formerly perpetrated upon travelling sales-
men so frequently, that about ten or twelve years ago the
Alliance was formed, with the only motto for such a
society, " Spare no time or expense to get the conviction of
every thief," with the result that robberies of this sort have
been reduced to a minimum. Recently the Alliance has
run to ground some notorious thieves, and secured the
greater part of the plunder.

* * *

^JEWELERS, Silversmiths — in fact, every trade are on
Li the road to exhibition-mad. We naturally expected
it would be the greatest show that ever was on earth, but
it appears about safe now to say that it will be the greatest
show that ever trill be. Specimens of silver work many
feet long are in preparation for that immortal occasion,
and every day news arrives of prodigious exertions from
almost every country in the civilized world. I should say
that it will bring such a concourse of people together as
the world has never seen, and that they will take back
with them to the furthermost isles of the ocean the
impressions of the various big nations from what they see
of them at this marvellous exposition.

# # =&

SO far as I can hear, the British Watchmaking and
Jewelry trades are not taking such steps to be repre-
sented as other trades. I don't know if the watch
trade are afraid of being beaten ; I don't think they
need be. But of this we may be sure : that if they do not
exhibit, judgment will go by default. I think, Mr. Editor,
that you might bring this question more prominently
before the trade as there is a great ulterior good to come out
of an exposition of this size aiiid internationality.

Round the 'Watch Factories.

The report of a threatened strike at the Elgin, to which
I referred last month, turned out to be entirely groundless.
Fverybody saemed to know some secret connected with it,
and we must commend them for keeping it as such. But
the assumption of knowledge not to be divulged is often
misleading, and I guess I'll know the rights of a thing
before I publish it again.

The whole thing arose from a cause which frequently
happens. When a new movement is first turned out men
are paid a little extra for it till they have time to become
expert in it, when it is reduced to adjust the schedule. In
January some eighteen of the men signed a petition asking
for the reduction not to take place, but were told the com-
pany could not favorably receive it. These men are now
amongst the others in the factory earning their three or

four dollars a day. In fact, the only trouble that has
occurred at this horological paradise was that caused by
two employes selling the company's productions to the
public, and so becoming competitors of retail dealers,
which is against the terms of the agreement.

New additions are being made, or are in contemplation,
at the Lancaster Watch Factory, (but rumors of quite
another nature are also afloat), and at the New Haven Clock
Company's factory.

The Du Laney Clock Company has been capitalised to
the tune of 300,000 dols. at Valaparaiso, forty-five miles
from Chicago, having taken the immense building formerly
held by the Barry Wagon Company. The clock is an
electric one, and they claim it to be the best on earth.

The curious litigation in connection with the Paillard
Non- Magnetic Watch Company has come to an end, and
the business will henceforth be carried on under the title
of the Non-Magnetic Watch Company at 177, Broadway,
New York. It is their intention to advertise the business
well, as all members of the board are firm believers in the
future of their production. If heads count for anything —
and assuredly they do — Charles O. Morris, the president,
is a man of the highest standing and quality. He was
twice President of the Cold Exchange, and President of
the Consolidated Exchange. The paid-up capital is
100,000 dols. Catalogues are now in the hands of the
trade.

The Waterbury Clock Company have removed to 134
and 136, Wabash Avenue, Chicago.

The United States Watch Company have been running
eight hours a day.

The Elgin National Watch Company pay a tax at Elgin
of over 13,000 dols.

The Waltham have won the suit against the Illinois
Watch Company for infringement of patent in their stem-
winding watch. The defence argued want of novelty in
the invention, and also pointed out differences between
their product and that of the Waltham, but the Court
ruled infringement.

iJfie Montana J^,u€>y Mine$.

YT7HE statutory meeting of the company was held on the
&j!st 22nd ult. It mainly consisted of the chairman
(Lord Chelmsford) drawing attention to the report of the
directors, as it could not well do more. A question, how-
ever, was asked whether it was a fact that several share-
holders had applied for the return of their money on the
ground of misrepresentations having been made in the
prospectus. To this the chairman replied that only one
such communication had been received. Mr. Streeter
made some still more wonderful statements : Firstly, that
Jie could take all the stones produced from the mines at
such a price as would pay the company a large dividend ;■
and secondly, that he certainly did not expect to find
gold when he went to inspect the gem mines. Our memory
is certainly at fault in connection with this matter. We
must look up the subject again, which is what we should
recommend all those interested in this concern to' do.
Memory will fail sometimes, but it must not in cases like
these.

Although the Diamond-Kings speak so sanguinely,
and although they are declaring such big dividends
and giving away bonuses, the stock market does not bite
so eagerly after them as could have been expected. And
any day we must not be surprised to hear that other
mines, which are now known to exist, turn out to be formid-
able rivals, and important factors in the balance. There
is one significant fact that may mean something, and that
is that a very high official of Rothschild's is on his way
to South Africa ; what for, nobody knows, but all sorts of
conjectures are rife. ;

March 1, 1892.]

THE WATCHMAKEK, JEWELER AND SILVERSMITH.

175

'ur better from, tfte ©iamoniL
ifrefilA

(By Vaalite.)

Kimbekley, Jan. 26th.
N my last letter I informed your readers that
the De Beers Company had closed in with
Mr. Ward, so that they would ultimately
become the possessors of the Premier mine.
I am now in a position to give you the
details of that intricate Rhodian bargain, but
it would have made my letter too long last
month ; moreover, I needed confirmation (which I have
since obtained) of what I had heard. And even now to
understand the extreme complications of the case it is
necessary to call to mind several of the incidents of which
I have written you before. First of all you may remember
that there were two claimants, Messrs. Coronel and
Lawrence, who disputed half Ward's claim, but who sold
their claim to the Cape of Good Hope Bank (now in
liquidation) ; this claim was obtained by the De Beers, at
what cost nobody knows, but probably not much. Now
comes the buying of the estate upon which the mine is
situated from Wessels. In all, the estate consists of fifteen
farms with a total area of 52,000 acres or about eighty-one
square miles. In this buying up the whole of the estate they
have secured several other more-than-suspected mines.
The present property of the De Beers — the Bultfontein
estate — joins on the N.W. of the Alexandersfontein, a
continuation of the line dividing them runs along the N.
boundary of the Benauwdheidsfontein estate ; while the
extension of the line dividing Du Toits Pan from Bult-
fontein mine forms the boundary between Alexandersfontein
and Benauwdheidsfontein, the angle in the latter, on which
i? situated the Premier mine, just crossing to the west of
the Orange Free State boundary, so that it is very close to
the Du Toits and Bultfontein mines. The whole of this
valuable property has been acquired by paying Mr. J. J.
Wessels £303,000. And now for Mr. Ward, to understand
whose share will require a concentration of thought that
can follow one of Mr. Rhodes' bargains : this dis-
coverer, this worker, this developer, is to have as his
share the right to use ten steam gears capable of hauling
and washing 5,000 loads a day until he has cleared
5,000,000 loads of the top yellow away, which is only a
portion of that now in sight, but he mu*t clear out in five
years. He must not put more than 20,000 carats a month
upon the market, so as not to affect the De Beers
monopoly, and for this privilege he is to pay to the De
Beers Company no less a sum than £150,000, or
one - half the price paid by the company for
eighty-one square miles of rich mineral territory. And
further , Ward is to pay interest upon the sum at the modest
rate of 9 per cent., so that he will have to pay them, say
£210,000 in addition to the amount he has first to pay Arm-
strong, detailed last month. It will be remembered that
in the history of the other mines the yellow was always
comparatively poor, and indeed in some cases a good depth
into the blue had to be penetrated before the maximum
yield was reached. So that Mr. Ward has just got the
pleasure of working off the top stuff and preparing this
gigantic mine for the De Beers, and all through the
scheming, foresighted, checkmating policy of the director
of the company. It may be said that Mr. Ward has, even
as it is, a wonderful chance of making a fortune. With
even his limited number of steam gears he could raise his
5,000,000 loads in three and a half years, and if he only
netted 2s. 6d. a load out of it he would in that short time
make £G00,000, and be a rich man. But there is no reason
why he should not have been able to be worth £6,000,000,

and Wessels too, if it had not been for the interposition of
others. But although Ward is certainly a far more busi-
ness-like man than was Armstrong, even now he talks
about not being in a hurry. As, however, he is
going to retain Major Wollaston as manager, those
who know the gentleman will rest assured that he will
not allow the grass to grow under his feet, but that he will
go at it in earnest, and bring to bear upon it the skill he
has acquired in twenty years' practical diamond mining.
We shall then be able to compare notes of the difference of
the manner in which the other mines were developed when
in numerous private hands, all working for themselves,
totally disregardless of the next claim ; and a mine
developed under a scientific method and with modern
machinery. All out here hope that Mr. Ward will get all
he so richly deserves after the battles he has fought, and
after the taunt and calumny hs suffered. Unparalleled as
was the history of some of the other mines, we yet question
whether any of the mines can furnish a more romantic
history than the two first years of the Premier.

It will thus be evident that this great find, which might
have had such an immeasurable influence upon the diamond
market, will not have the slightest impression upon it, as
before the union the total of four mines reached over three
and a half million carats per year. . Whether the company
will wait until Ward has cleared out before they begin
their workings there is nothing to say. Of course, there is
no occasion for them to do so, as they could easily sink a
shaft outside the mine and drive in without interfering in
any way with him. It is believed that Mr. Ward will
employ about a thousand men in the mine, so that
we hope to have a turn in the prosperity of the
diamond fields, as I am sure we need it, the last year or so
being the blackest in the history of this important colony.
I am certain that before the De Beers have got possession of
this mine others will be shown to be real ones. Indeed, if
this mine had done nothing else, it will have stirred up more
men and set more prospecting to work with greater results
than any other circumstance. Some of these results — the
details .of which I must leave till my next letter — are
already known to a few.

I may just mention that a fine stone of 136 carats has
been found at Koffyfontein, and another of 103 carats at
Du Toits. In connection with the former, an action is
being instigated which will disclose some of the worst
phases of I.D.B'ing ever made public. It will not be a
case of the knights of Petticoat Lane as the receivers and
buyers, but of one mine illicitly buying stones which
belong to another. Perhaps the turning up of this stone
will be the turn of the tide, and the adoption at Koffyfontein
and other mines of a more rigorous system, similar to that in
force at De Beers. It is certain that this I.D.B'ing has been
the ruin of what might otherwise have been prosperous
and going concerns. As actions are now pending, and a
manager, whose name has been mentioned in these columns,
has been held on bail for £1,000, I cannot give the
details of what I hear. In the original transaction the
diamond is said to have been bought for £67 10s. ; it was
subsequently sold out here for £1,700, and was forthwith
sent over to England.

I have recently been busily engaged gathering all the
statistics and particulars of all the mines here up to
date, their method of working, the nature of their claims,
and their probable capacity of affecting the diamond
market in the future, for although we often speak of the
great monopoly, it must not be forgotten they are not the
only producers of diamonds. The figures of the returns for
1891 not being made public at present, I am unable to
quote them. In 1890 the total value of diamonds sold by
the De Beers was under three million sterling, but I have
no hesitatiomin saying that the diamonds in 1891 pro-
duced by other companies amounted to four and a quarter
millions.

17(5

THE WATCHMAKER, JEWELER AND SILVERSMITH.

[March 1, 1892.

Windows aqd Window Dressing.

By the Editor.

goods only

(Continued from jjage 155.)
EFORE passing on to describe any other
window fittings, it may be advisable to notice
one or two of the various styles and descrip-
tions of displays to which the fittings last
described will lend themselves. In the
other instance we confined ourselves to gem
We will now consider them dressed with all

gold. The bottom front can still be retained, or a series

of trays can be made to fit along in the place of it. These
may be either rectangular, and fit upon a flat bar, say,
three inches wide, passing along at the back, in which case
they would all fit up close to each other ; or, if the position
is a prominent one, trays may be let into it, dropping over
a metal bar, as shown in Fig. 3. Fig. 4 shows the arrange-
ment of the back fitting : A is the bar, upon which the
trays hang ; B a similar bar, which acts as a stop ; C is
one of two brass clips, by which the tray is held in position ;
and D a hook, by which it is lifted out and in from behind.
As this is a good broad expanse, it offers a wide field for
diversity of outline in trays ; pointed oval Gothic matches
the end members above, bat it entirely depends upon the
nature of the stock — whether it happens to be very large in
any particular line. Probably for some time past more
rings have sold than anything else ; it is therefore desir-
able to keep them well to the front. We have therefore
occupied this space with them. In Fig. 3 we show two
shapes of trays, and it will be seen that the interspaces in
each case are suitable for different articles. Flexible
bracelets show well festooned along the bottom with many
pattern trays. When the divisional line is narrow, as
between the first and second, a curb can be let fall ; if, how-
ever, watch-bracelets are a speciality, then trays such as
the third one offer a better position. If, again, the former

are preferred, the upper tri-
angles form good positions
for them ; as they also do for
half-suites. If gents' pins are
made at all a speciality these
upper triangles form splendid
places for them, and small
stands, with a white covered
cushion, can easily be fixed
in these positions with a rect-
angular peg passing through
the front board. The position
also forms a charming place
for conventionalised shells,
in which any novelty or unmounted gems find a highly
perspicuous place. A scroll in the style of one of the
Louis, in gilt with a velvet top, is also most effective.
The centre tray or trays could be employed for wedding-
rings, and should be of such a shape as to be apparently

supported in position by cupids placed in this angle. If the
stock would not furnish sufficient rings for these seven or
eight trays they could be reduced to five, and between them
could be pilasters of either studs, or brooches, or earrings.
If it is not desirable to exhibit so much stock, a shaped
velvet-covered pilaster can ba interposed between each tray
(dividing up the board into panels), the capitals of which
form excellent positions for hour-glass pin-stands.

Of course any other suitable stock could be employed n
this front position — half-suites, earrings, lockets, seals,
charms, and numerous other things.

Coming now to the next member, the bottom, this can
be well divided into three trays, which can easily be lifted
out and in the window, and much closer attention can then
be given to the fingers of the light-handed fraternity than
if innumerable dives have to be made into the window.
The two side trays can be made with cork bottoms, and
employed for fichu brooches. If these are largely stocked,
— and there are vast quantities of them sold— they can be
inclined to the view of the customer outside, and placed
pretty thickly, without suggesting the idea of cramming.
The centre tray, a little more elevated perhaps than the
others, can be well employed for the display of latest
novelties, a row of watch-bracelets from 'the front back-
wards, forming the centre, the edges being bounded by
a couple of chatelaine watches. A row of new enamels
running diagonally makes an effective main feature in some
novel case, novel shape, novel material, novel anything,
followed by a row of moonstone competitors. The front
triangle thus left can be employed for any late arrivals in
links, brooches, or some of the charming things that are
now produced in platinum and various hued gold. The
larger back triangles can be employed for, say, pearl work,
such as sprays and the like.

In dressing a window everything turns upon symmetry :
if a half -doze a watch bracelets be used in the centre, the
bands, if flexible, should be either all pulled quite light,
and laid as straight and as level as it is possible, or they
may be curved, but they must be something. They must
bear evidence of design, which, without being formal, will
suggest the idea of " very nice " to the most refined tastes.
Their spacing must also claim great attention, and must
be carried out with care. It is not altogether geometrical
accuracy that must be studied, but effect — they must appear
to be equal. The amount of space left by the patterns
will determine this better than an inch measure. All this
comes of practice and care, and watching ' these little
points, although they seem very simple. An assistant's
handiwork in a window is as recognisable as his hand-
writing ; one brooch " out of square " or out of pattern in
a window has an unpleasing effect long before we recognise
what is exactly at fault.

An altogether different system could be adopted with
this bottom by employing cased goods ; of course, so dis-
played they occupy far more than twice the space than
under any other arrangement. The worst feature about
cased goods is the lids of the cases, but this evil is en-
tirely remedied by the use of cases where the tops snap on
and off. We will therefore imagine the bottom so dressed
with cased-up jewelry with the lids off. We will imagine
we have three large pieces, say necklets, in rather elongated
kidney-form cases. The one most dissimilar — which let us
hope is the best — we place in front of the centre block, and
the other two in the side recesses. We next take, say, a

March 1, 1892.]

THE WATCHMAKEE, JEWELER AND SILVERSMITH.

177

dozen or so sets of studs with their blocks covered white, and
with these fill the two spaces between the three necklets in
a nice sweeping curve, with all the blocks radiating evenly,
all being directed towards a line somewhere at the back
centre block. If there are sufficient studs in stock,
carry similar curves round the end stands up to the neck-
lets ; if studs are not to hand use brooches. In front of
the centre necklet place three rows of three sets of pearl
studs or novelties in links, with their blocks also white-
covered ; along the front run a row of eartops, filling up the
back with level rows of brooches, pendants, and sprays,
getting larger as they go backward. Each of the back
segments being moveable, the outline of the window can be
accommodated to the stock in hand. In our next we will
devote our attention to them.

(To be continued.)

Watch and Gkk Making.

(Continued from page 139.)
ehr^coerd) ancj VLoteib to Que/3>fior^ faeX. at tfie
Q)\K.^ anc} (§Juifc|iS> oj? teonilor^ ^n^titute

Sg: a mi nation^.

By I. Herrmann,
Director of the Polytechnic School of Watch and Clock Making.

(III.)— Honors Paper, 1880.

N a general way we are accustomed to use the
term weight in two different senses, accord-
ing as we wish to denote certain conditions
to which it is applicable. Thus, when
we say a body is very heavy or of great
weight, we mean it exerts a great pressure.
Here then, we refer to weight as a pressure exerting force.
Then we say a "body weighs such a number of pounds,"
in which case we use the term weight in a numerical
sense to denote the quantity of matter collected in any
body. Now a little reflection on the means used in this
last case may help us considerably. In England the
unit of matter is one pound, but in a commercial sense
it does not in the least concern us as to the value of
a unit itself, because it is simply used as a means of
comparison ; we only require to know what a unit
denotes, and then we are able to form conclusions by
simple numbers as to the quantity of material in anything
in question. Now when the means used for determining
the quantity of matter in a body is the balance with the
ordinary turning scales, that is, where the weight is placed
in one scale and the body to be weighed in another, it
would not in the least affect the poise if the unit of com-
parison is increased or diminished conditionally, that the
same rate of variation is maintained as to the body in the
other scale ; in other words, the variation in the value of
the unit would not affect the number which expresses
how many units of weight a body weighs if the weight
of each initial unit of matter varies in the same ratio.
This is just what happens under variation of gravity
as regards comparison by means of such a balance.
With the variation due to gravitation the pressure exerted
by a unit of matter varies in the same proportion as
the pound, and therefore the balance is not disturbed.
Y\ hen, however, pressure is used, by the effect it produces
as a mode of estimating the quantity of matter, we are
no longer independent of gravity. This may be seen in
the spring balance. Here a point is displaced and the
pressure required to effect the displacement is known,
hence the pressure can be ascertained in terms of the
displacement. If now this pressure is applied by a sus-
pended body, it may vary in two ways, viz., increase in
the matter contained by the body or variation of gravita-
tion. Thus it is that in all transactions where pressure is

used as a means of comparison or effect, when that pressure
is due to gravitation we require to estimate the variation of
gravity to obtain the measure of pressure. Since then the
pressure exerted by a quantity of matter is liable to varia-
tion, we are under the necessity of taking account of the
way that the pull which a body can exert may vary. Now
the quantity of matter in a body in a mechanical sense we
call mass, the pull or pressure it exerts vertically down-
wards is termed weight, and the force which effects the
measure of this pull or pressure is the effect of the earth
and is termed gravitation. Thus I think it will appear
clear, that the quantity of matter may remain the same,
but the pressure it exerts, or its weight, will vary in exact
proportion as the effect of gravity, and thus it is that if we
divide the variation of weight (which means here purely
pressure) by the variation of gravity, the quotient must
always be a constant number ; and therefore, in order to
get an estimate of the quantity of matter in a body, when
mere pressure is used as a unit of comparison, we require
to resort to this method, hence the expression (c) page 255.

To show the technical importance of the bearing of this
principle I may use the following illustration : — The least
addition of mass to a chronometer, or watch balance
wherever it may be placed will effect the time sensibly ;
but if added to the pendulum it will cause gain or loss, or
the effect will be zero, as the mass is placed above, below or
at the centre of oscillation, and yet if a watch or chrono-
meter is moved from one latitude to another the time is
not effected, while the time of an oscillation of the pendu-
lum varies in an inverse manner to the latitude. The ex-
planation is, that in the first case the time depends on the
constancy of the moment of inertia [see (c) 3 II. ], in
which mass is one factor and radius of gyration squared
another, neither of which is affected by change of latitude.
In the second the accelerative effect of gravity constitutes a
factor, hence the variation of time with a change of latitude.

But now we have to consider what value we have to
assign to M in the expression .

M = - - (c) (page 255, vol. xvi.)

&
If W means one pound, and since g denotes 32-19 in the

latitude of Greenwich, it is evident that M would come out
as = TiJ-rD . Such a sense would lead us into an absurdity,
for that would mean about half an ounce, which cannot
be, hence we must either attach a different meaning to M or
W, and this is, of course, already done — that is, the expres-
sion (b) (page 255, vol. xvi.) is used in a dynamical sense,
that is, W is used as expressing a force, and is estimated
by means of the rate of motion it generates, when acting
on a certain mass, or the measure of the momentum
generated in a second of time (as explained in reference to
(c) (page 255), the unit of weight in this case being the
absolute unit of force.

As has already been stated, gravitation is determined by
the accelerative effect it produces (;//) (page 255), which
is expressed by the velocity a body acquires falling freely
in one second in any given latitude, hence at the end
of one second the momentum of a falling body is Mg.
Where M means the mass in pounds, the British pound
being meant as the unit. Now the force that generates
this momentum is the effect of the weight or pressure,
which again is due to the effect of gravitation, but the
momentum of a body is equal to the force that produced it,
hence W in this case denotes the force that has generated
the momentum, and therefore Mg = W. and W then
means Mg units of force. Using a numerical illus-
tration agreeable to the definitions of the unit of
force on page 255, taking M = 1 pound and g corresponding
to the latitude of Greenwich, Mg = l X 32-19 = 32-19 units
of momentum, and this is the force that has generated the
momentum in a second of time, and is denoted by W,
therefore W = 32-19.

I To be continued, i

17N

THE WATCHMAKER, JEWELER AND SILVERSMITH.

[March 1, 1892.

©eterminafi^e (Sje-Timofo

THE PLEOCHROISM OF GEMS.

By the Editor.

( Continued from page 150.)

The Action of Crystals upon Light.

E are now led to inquire whether there is
anything in either the composition or
molecular structure of gems which modify
their action upon light ; and we shall soon
find that if our conception and definition of
light he correct, it is principally the latter.
We have previously represented light to be
the result of equal transverse vibrations, and when such a
motion meets with a full-faced all-side resistance it will
simply be retarded ; but otherwise it will proceed in the
same direction, although with less velocity. If, then, a ray
of light meets a piece of glass under such conditions, it
simply passes through it, and if the glass be free from
stain, etc., we can see through it, and the objects appear in
their natural form and hues. This is because the light
meets with a resistance which is the same on all sides. Now
it is well known that heat, like light, is a mode of motion,
and the following experiment may make this still more
clear. If we cut a slice from a ruby-crystal at right angles
to the direction of the prism, we shall, if the crystalline
form be perfect, have a hexagonal plate. But whatever
were the last chapters in the life-history of the crystal, and
however irregular its surface, its symmetry about its
imaginary axes — of which we have previously spoken — is
the same. If, now, we pierce the centre, and cover the
plate with wax, and insert into the hole a hot wire, we
shall find it will melt the wax in a circle from the centre,
equally on all sides, as shown in figure 3, where we see
the melting, greatest in the centre, dying away evenly all
around.

FIC. 3.

FIG. 4-

If we were to enclose a long cylinder of ruby in a sheet of
sensitized paper, and cause a platinum wire, passed
through its principal axis, to glow, we should find the
sheet of paper record a uniform illumination, showing
that the ray met with an equal elasticity on all sides of it,
in all planes at right angles to the principal axis of the
crystal. If, however, we cut a plate from the same
crystal along its principal axis, as shown in figure 4, and
similarly puncture it, cover it with wax, and pass a
heated wire through it, we should find a very different
result. Here, instead of the melted area being a circle, it
is an ellipse, showing a different degree of elasticity in the
two directions ; one elasticity along the principal axis, and
another at right angles to it.

We must now revert to the subject of the axes of crystals,
it will be remembered that the various systems of crystallo-
graphy derived their names from the lengths and positions
of these imaginary lines, and that in the isometric system
there were three axes at right angles, all of equal

lengths. There is therefore in this system the greatest
possibly symmetry, so that a ray of light passing through
such a crystal in any direction would find an all-sided
retardation ; or if we like to realise the wave surface as a
sphere, Ave may say it would retain its shape in a passage
through the crystal. However, it is best at present to speak
of the various elasticities along the axes, and their effect
upon the all-sidedness of the waves of light in their passage
through the gems.

Isotropic Gems.

All gems occurring in the amorphous form, or crystalli-
zing in the isometric system, which offer the same
structural conditions through any plane or along any
of their axes, are said to be isotropic. To the former
belong opal, hydrophane, melted quartz (often mistaken
for diamonds), some agates obsidian (all artificial gems and
glass not subjected to pressure). To the latter belong
diamonds of all hues, spinels, and garnets. The whole of
these allow a ray of light to pass through them at right
angles to their surfaces without in any way interfering
with it, save by uniform retardation and absorption ; but
the latter phenomena can be left unconsidered for the
present.

Anisotropic Gems.

When a gem presents two or three elasticities to a ray
of light passing through it in various directions it is said
to be anisotropic. In the case of the ruby just illustrated
we saw that it possessed two ; now it will be remembered
that in the hexagonal system, in which this gem crystal-
lises, there are three lateral axes, all of which are equal,
and a fourth lying at right angles to the former. Assum-
ing the axes of elasticity to coincide with the axis of
figure (which is the case with the majority of the gems), it
becomes evident that a ray of light travelling along the
principal axis faces the conditions of symmetry presented
by an isotropic body. This direction is called the optic
axis, and gems in which this condition obtains are said to
be uniaxial.

But the hexagonal system is not the only system that
presents this symmetry. In the dimetric there are two
lateral axes of equal lengths, and a third at right angles ;
consequently, a ray passing along the principal axis experi-
ences the same kind of all-sided symmetry as in the case of
the hexagonal system, and the principal axis becomes an
optic axis, or the line along which a ray behaves as though
it were passing through an isotropic medium. There is
one feature about the optic axis in which it might appear
to differ from the axis of figure, and that is that the
elasticity along it is sometimes greater and sometimes less
than that of the lateral axes.

Positive and Negative Crystals.

When the elasticity along the optic axis is less than
at right angles to it, or, in other words, when the vibrations
are more retarded in that direction than along the other
axes, the gem is said to be optically positive. When the
reverse is the case, and the optic axis is the direction of
greatest elasticity and least retardation, the gem is said to
be optical!;/ negative. Both these conditions obtain in both
the dimetric and hexagonal systems. In the former we get
idocrase and all its varieties as negative ( — ), and Zircon in
all its varieties, such as hyacinth, jacinth, and jargoon, as
( + ) positive. In the hexagonal we have the corundums
which include ruby, sapphire, oriental-emerald, and any
other hue ; beryl, which include all its varieties, such as
aquamarine and emerald ; tourmaline with all its varieties,
such as rubellite, indicolite, achroite, etc., as — ; and
phenacite, diopside, and quartz with all its varieties as +.

There is one more phenomena, viz., absorption, to which
we must refer before we revert to the use of the dichroscope,
but this we must reserve till our next number.
(To be continued.)

March 1, 1892.]

THE WATCHMAKEE, JEWELER AND SILVERSMITH.

179

Lin wrought MaferiafA.

Aluminum. Lore.

As each number of the journal comes round, there are
always various contributions to the wonders of this certainly
important— but at present imperfectly understood, and
frequently ridiculously over-rated — metal. Now some new
method is claimed that will produce it at 30 cents per lb.,
now some unheard-of method of reduction which will
reduce it still lower ; but many of these exist on paper only.
News now reaches us under the head of " Mounds of
Aluminum " that a " fat " comedian is in possession of 150
acres near the mouth of Chesapeake Bay covered with an
enormous depth of clay, which yields forty to sixty-five per
cent, of aluminum, and that a new process has been dis-
covered by a German chemist of Philadelphia by which
he can reduce this at sixteen cents per lb. But when we
remember that the proportions of the metal (aluminum)
present in the purest form of alumina is only 53*4, and even
assuming that the so-called clay should be a pure bauxite,
as even this does not yield much over 60 per cent, of
alumina, it is obvious that the report must be taken cum
grano salis with the grain of the largest dimensions. If,
however, by aluminum is meant alumina, then there is
nothing remarkable in the deposit, as thousands of such
clays exist in this country and on the Continent.

fr- j3ig Silver Company.

There is a rumor current just now that a big company
will shortly be formed in London to acquire the whole of
the South African Silver Mines, many of which are known
to be of important dimensions.

Asbestos Porcelaine.

M. Garros recently read a paper before the Academie des
Sciences, Paris, upon a method of manufacturing a new
kind of translucent porcelaine from asbestos. The asbestos
is ground to powder, treated with sulphuric or hydrochloric
acid to free it from iron oxide ; it is then made into a paste,
moulded, dried slowly, and ultimately baked for eighteen
hours at a temperature of 1200°C. It possesses qualities
never before obtained.

^American Turquoise.

The Azure Turquoise Company, formed some months
ago at 90, Nassau Street, have their product now before
the trade. The quantity is not so great as was at first
thought, being quite limited. The company cut and
polish it themselves, and have one or two fairly large
specimens on view.

America's Quota of the Precious Metals.

Last year Cousin Jonathan added to the world's supply
of gold 1,620,000 ounces, being 30,000 ounces more than
the year before. But from the figures of the Randt output
that we usually publish monthly it will be seen that South
Africa is close upon its heels, and should it increase
its output for a few months with anything of the
rate it is now doing it will soon leave America behind.
During the year the United States added to the world's
stock of silver 58,000,000 ounces, being an increase of
three and a half million ounces. With these we have only
to compare the productions of the Broken Hill, and from
this district let us hope the water-famine has passed.

Staptling Announcements.

There has been no small amount of excitement in certain
metallurgical circles lately over an announcement from
Germany. This is to the effect that a new eloctrolytic
process has been invented, for which the inventor is to

receive no less a sum than 50,000,000 marks. The process,
it is said, will entirely do away with the blast furnace, and
reduce the rate of reduction of iron, gold, silver, copper,
and aluminium ores by 80 per cent. But we shall want
to know more about it before we regard it as a fact.

iJfte ©ufofin JWaij ©ffice.

The Wardens of the Goldsmiths' Company remind the
trade that notwithstanding the duty on gold and silver is
abolished, hall-marking is still compulsory, under a penalty
of £10.

Prices to be made for assaying and marking gold and
silver wares on and after the 1st January, 1892 : —

s. d.

0 1

0 2

0 4

0 6

... 1 0

0 8

0 6

GOLD.

For each Wedding-ring under 6 dwts.

For each Fancy Ring

For each Medal or Badge ...

For each pair of Sleeve-links

For each Bracelet ...

For each Chain

For each Watch-case

Plate per oz....

One shilling is charged in all cases for assaying above
the marking.

SILVER.

Plate per oz. ...

Wares (not plate) weighing under 3 dwts. each

Under 30 articles extra for assaying

Wares under 6 dwts. each ...

Under 12 articles extra for assaying ...

Medals or Badges over 6 dwts.

Watch-cases, each ...

Lowest charge for silver ... ... ... ... 0 6

The above office is open on Tuesday, Thursday, and
Saturday, from 10 o'clock. Work must be sent before
11 o'clock ; letters and work from the country, to ensure
prompt attention, should be addressed to S. W. Le Bass,
Assay Master, 5, Fleet Street, Dublin.

dio^eniYij ©y/afcfimajCerfi)' pro^icjer^f ^>oc\ety.

fN three years this laudable institution will reach its jubilee,
and although it has not all been plain sailing, the
society can be congratulated on the report presented
by the secretary on the 8th ult., at the annual meeting, over
which Mr. Suddens presided. There was a good gather-
ing, and the reports were well received. The number of
members now stands at 268, the amount of stock per
member being £18 2s. 3^d. The balance sheet showing
£4,854 16s. 9d., and by rigorous calculation, with liabilities
calculated at a maximum, they were solvent, a condition
far removed from that of 15 or 16 years ago. Some very
interesting figures were given during the evening from a
statistical point of view, which showed that both death and
sickness rates were less amongst the members of our trade
than with the average of others, and that they were peculiarly
exempt from chronic diseases. Thus the actuary had
assessed their liabilities fcr sick pay for five years at £2,006,
while as a matter of fact it cost the Society only a trifle
over a quarter of that sum. There were other advantages
of the Society pointed out, such as those which arise from
not taking men over thirty years of age. The new committee
consists of Messrs. J. Suddens, C. T. Hewitt, J. Beesley,
W. Middleton, W. Sidwell, T. Brown, J. Bromwich, J.
Price, and R. Denny.

Mil

THE WATCHMAKER, JEWELER AND SILVERSMITH.

[March 1, 1892.

Telegraph Address-SYDEJMHAJVI, (SIRJVIINGHAJV1.

Telephone Address— 4,059.

A@VnE£&i I AM wnolBsale & Manufacturing Jeweller,
■ O I UERnillfl9 26, Frederick St.. BIRMINGHAM,

For Home and Export.

iOLD AND SILVER WALTHAM WATCHFS

ENGLAND.

OF EYE It Y DESCRIPTION.

A Large Stock of these Splendid Watches to suit all Districts.

(ALL WATCHES HAVE COMPENSATION BALANCES, AND HAVE CRYSTAL GLASSES, AND, IN MOST CASES, BREQUET SPRINGS.)

Gentlemen's Matcbea.

Silver Open Face Snap Cases, from -

S.lver Open Face Spring Cases, from -

Silver Hunters, from -

G- Id 10 carat Open Face from - - -

Gold 10 carat Hunters, from -

GJd 10 carat Open Face, Keyless, from -

Gold 10 carat Keyless Hunters, from

Gold 18 carat Open Face, from

Gold 18 carat Hunters, from ...

Gold 18 carat Keyless, Open Face, //•<»« -

Gold 18 carat Keyless Hunters, from

wining Keyless Hunter

£1 12 9
1 13 9

4 13 0

Xafcnes' Matches.

wading ;Key]ess Hunter

— 2 0 6

— 15 8 0

5 17 0

8 2 0

— 6 10 0

— 10

9 17 0

— 12

8 0
0 0

Silver Open Face, from -

Silver Hnrters, from -

Gold 10 carat Open Face, from

Gold 10 carat Hunters, from -

Gold 10 carat Open Face, Keyless, from

Gold 10 carat Keyless Hunters, from

Gold 18 carat Open Face, from

Gold 18 carat Hunters, from -

Gold 18 carat Keyless, Open Face, /row

Gold 18 carat Keyless Hunteis, //■'««<

£1 18 9

2 1 6
3 8 0

— 4 6 0
4 2 0 —

— 5 0 0
5 19 0 —

— 7 2 0
6 8 0

— 7 12 0

GOLD AND SILVER WALTHAM WATCHES OF ALL THE BEST SELLING GRADES IN STOCK.

WALTHAM WATCHES FOR LADIES, Hunter, Half-Hunter, Open Face, Keyless, Plain, Engraved, Fancy
and Enamelled Cases, 18-et and 10-et., Gold guaranteed, and Hall-marked Silver.

A. SYDENHAM, Wholesale Jeweller, 26, Frederick Street, BIRMINGHAM, ENGLAND,

Maech 1, 1892.]

THE WATCHMAKER, JEWELER AND SILVERSMITH.

Telegraph Address— S YE) EJMHAJVI, BIRJVIINGHAJvl.

Telephone Address— 4,059.

A 6 V n E M I A Ml WftolesalB & M anuractuiing J eweller,
■ 9 I UEIMAIII) *>. Frederick St.. BIRMINGHAM,

ENGLAND.

For Home and Export.

SYDENHAM'S DIAMOND and GEM
SET BROOCHES.

These
diamond and gem
set Gold Butter-
, fly Brooches are
the prettiest
thino-s ever made.
Pearl bodies as
sketch, 75/- each.
Can he used as
brooch or hair
ornament.

BRACELETS AND BANGLES
Of every description, from the cheapest to the most

expensive.
Bright Gold Bracelets, from 8/6 upwards.
Bright Gold Bangles, from 6/6 upwards.
Bracelets in Silver, narrow, Hall-marked, 3/- each.
Bangles in Silver at all prices.
Indian Bangles, -/8, 1/-, 1/3, 1/6, 1/9, 2/- each.

This is the great house for

GOLD AND SILVER

THIMBLES.

Silver Hall-marked Thimbles,
7/6 to 18/- per dozen.

18-ct., 15-ct., 9-ct., and Silver Link Suites:
Studs and Collars of every description.

SYDENHAM for MEDALS

For Athletic Sports,

Skating, Yachting,

Boating, Curling,

Golfing, Swimming,

•; JXjIL ffi Shooting, &c.

The New Dorcas Thimbles.

same as drawing, and other pretty

designs, 21/- per dozen.

Plain Pattern, 17/- per dozen.

DAISY.

DIAMOND GOODS of every description,

Ladies' Diamond Rings, £1 to £20.

Gentlemen's Diamond Rings, £5 to £40.

Diamond Fichu Brooches.

Diamond Spray Brooches.

DIAMOND PINS from the cheapest to
the most expensive.

RINGS MY GREAT SPECIALITY.

LADIES' RINGS of the most ehoiee
description. I have one of the largest
and best selections of Ladies' Gem Ring's
and Engagement Rings in the trade.
Over 5,000 to choose from.

Ladies' Half-Hoop Gem
Rings— All Diamond, 30/-
to £50 ; Diamond and Rubv,

25/- to £50

Ladies' Boat Set. Diamond
Rings at all prices.

Agricultural Shows.

Root, Bird, Dog,
Rabbit, Horse, Bee,

Pigeon. Canary,
Poultry Shows, &c.

DRAWINGS and
PRICES

Ox Application.

Keepers— 18-Carat— To those of my friends at
home and in the Colonies who have not yet
seen my splendid selection of 18-ct. Keepers,
I ask them to take an early opportunity of
buying samples of these choice goods at the
most reasonable prices.

Keepers — 9-Carat — The finest stock of 9-ct.
Keepers in the Trade.

Ladies' Diamond and Gem Set Rings
of every other description, 15/- to £25.

Ladies' 15-ct. Engagement
Rings, same as drawing, and
I other pretty designs; sell
very well. Real Diamond.
12/6 each.

Ladies' 15-ct. Ruby and
Pearl Gem Rings, like draw-
ing, and various other most
saleable patterns. 12/6 each.

Gentlemen's Diamond Rings

at all prices.

Gentlemen's 18-ct., 15-ct., and 9-ct. Signet Rings

in great variety.

Special attention given to orders for
MASONIC JEWELS, SPECIAL
PIECES, PRESENTATION KEYS,
PRESENTATION JEWELLERY,
and OFFICIAL JEWELS of ell
kinds.

9-CT, HALL-MARKED BROOCHES,

Special Line of 9-ct. Hall-Marked Brooches, various patterns, as drawings, and other pretty designs, all at 5/9 each.

These Brooches with Earrings to match, 8/9 per set.
SIMILAR BROOCHES, but larger size, 9-ct. Hall-Marked ... ... ... ... ... ... ... 8/3 each.

,, ,, with Earrings to match ... ... ... ... ... ... ... n/3 per sct

A large variety of all the most fashionable and brst value patterns in 9-ct. Gold Brooches always in stock.

A. SYDENHAM

gives special attention to all Colonial no Fppdppink Q+non+

Letters, and will be pleased to receive z-yj) ' ' cUci IOK. OLTe6t,
Orders, if accompanied with Cash or p I p tjl I \| r> |j A i\/i

satisfactory English References. D I n IVI I IN U n A IYI ,

ILLUSTRATED PRICE LISTS ON APPLICATION. ENGLAND.

1N0

THE WATCHMAKER, JEWELER AND SILVERSMITH.

[March 1, 1892.

(UKe ©rvAtaf paface GPeefrie
G§fti"6ition.

(FIRST NOTICE.)
VjYHIS Exhibition is doubtless the most important of its
-I® kind that has been brought together, and when we
compare it with any of its predecessors, we are immediately
struck with the enormous strides made in the subjugation
of this mysterious force to the multifarious wants and
wishes of modern life, Here may be seen examples of the
capability of electricity undreamed of a few years ago,
from the delicate recording instruments, graphically de-
picting movements heretofore unknown, to the electric crane,
lifting and throwing about such herculean loads as would
surprise anyone. There is one branch of the indispen-
sable service of electricity which we regret to say is eloquently
silent, and that is its application to horology and chronometry
generally ; although we are informed upon the very best
authority that representatives of various Governments,
Cities, and large Corporations have visited the Exhibition
prepared to place large orders should they have found what
they required.

In electro-synchronising, Schweitzer of Basil appears to
hold a monopoly with exhibit No. 207. His system we are
informed has made rapid strides on the Continent, 600 of
his clocks having recently been ordered for Vienna. It has
also commanded the good graces of the Parisians, amongst
whom it is about to replace one [of the best known systems
which has not given altogether satisfaction. In this system
there is one or more master clocks, which have full trains
and pendulums, or lever escapements. The secondary
clocks receive time every minute, which by the action of a
lever on one tooth of the large wheel moves the minute
hand. It will thus be seen that only two or three wheels
are necessary for the secondary clocks. It is proposed in
the adoption of this system in Paris to place far less num-
bers in the individual circuits, so that in case of an acci-
dent only a few clocks would be stopped. Messrs. Shippey
Brothers, of 13 and 14, Cheapside, are the English agents
for this firm."!

It is only natural to expect to find Messrs. S. Smith and
Son, of the Strand, to be to the front with an exhibition
of what is first and foremost in many branches of the
trade. If our memory serves us rightly they were one of
the very first to appreciate the benefits of the electric light,
and several indispensable contrivances, now common pro-
perty in connection with electric lighting, were discovered
by them. Their exhibit is the finest public demonstration
of magnetisable and unmagnetisable (anti - magnetic)
watches probably ever made. In one instance a magnet
is placed over the loose steel parts of a watch, all of which
it attracts. In the next we see the same parts anti-
magnetic, all of which retain their position on the tray,
although the magnet almost touches them. In another,
steel-cased watches are allowed to attach themselves by
magnetic action to an electro-magnet, but the former,
totally regardless of their position, tick away undis-
turbedly the moments that are fast fleeting away
from those who do not keep pace with the times.
Another important exhibit of the same firm is a demag-
netiser, the ocular demonstration of the value of which is
enjoyed in instances which number thousands. Here
may be found crowds who pass amongst the dynamos,
where high voltage experiments are going on, and return
with watches absolutely magnetised. Then follows a rush
to Messrs. Smith's watch stand, and expressions, clad in
not the most polite English, against magnetisable watches
in opposition to the desirability of possessing an anti-
magnetic timester. The demagnetiser employed by them
is as simple as it must necessarily be effective. A powerful
bar-magnet is made to turn round upon its centre at a great
velocity, so presenting N. and S. poles alternately to the

magnetised object. We also noticed the gentleman in
charge of the stand was a practical man, and knew how to
demonstrate the truth of what took place — an inestimable
point very often lacking in exhibits of this sort.

(Ufte d>o^entY^ ©X/V'ateft ©JraiLe

<J\x*>x*>

oeiafior^.

j|HE annual meeting of this association was
held on February 9th, at the usual meeting
place, the Hen and Chickens Hotel, Coventry.
There was a very large attendance. Mr.
Samuel Yeomans, president, was in the
chair. In the report the committee con-
gratulated the members upon the prosperity
of the watch trade during the past year, and on the prospect
of its continuance. During the year eight ordinary and
three special meetings had been held, all of which had
been well attended. Reference was made to the two visits
of the Chairman to London in the capacity of witness in
the prosecution of a London firm. In March a conference
was held in Coventry of the delegates representing the
associations of London, Liverpool, Prescot, and Coventry,
and it was decided to form an Executive Council with a
view to taking more united action whenever the necessity
should arise. The committee earnestly requested the
attention of manufacturers and workmen to the necessity
of joining the association, and thus strengthening the
hands of the committee, as there were several bills about
to come before Parliament which would very materially
affect the watch trade. The income of the association for
the past year was £20 16s., the expenses had been
£18 17s. 9d., leaving a balance to the credit of the
association of £1 18s. 3d., added to which the amount
brought forward of £15 8s. 6d., made a total balance of
£17 6s. 9d.

The Chairman, in moving the adoption of the report,
referred to the death of Lord Cheylesmore, who had been
president of the association, and that of Mr. George
Woodcock, one of the vice-presidents. Mr. Ballantine,
M.P., who had been asked to take the presidency, had
written expressing his pleasure in doing so, and stating
that it was his desire to help the association in every way
he could. He urged upon the trade the necessity of taking
an interest in the association, which meant taking an
interest in the welfare of the trade, pointing out that
although strong enough to hold together in times of peace,
if the war of prosecutions, with their attendant expenses,
had to be resorted to, outlays would have to be met, and
for this reason he was anxious to see the roll swell.

There could be no doubt that the Merchandise Marks
Act had been very beneficial to the watch trade, but with-
out that association and a great amount of influence that
they brought to bear upon it, the watch clauses of the Act
would never have been introduced, and but for some
powerful association and united action the clauses would
not be observed.

Councillor Drinkwater said he thought the Merchandise
Marks Act did go far enough. He thought there ought to
be still further action in the direction of having the word
" foreign " plainly marked on the face of all foreign-made
watches, so that purchasers would know clearly what they
were buying. There was still a great deal of deception in
foreign watches, for they were made to wind in the same
way as the English fusees, and to set hands in the front.
He strongly supported the making of every effort to obtain
more members for the association.

Mr. Price, as a working man, urged there was as great
need as ever for its existence, in protecting the trade
against dishonest and unscrupulous makers. He also
pointed out that there was very much for the association

March 1, 1892.]

THE WATCHMAKER, JEWELER AND SILVERSMITH.

181

to do in promoting and watching legislation, and called
particular attention to the proposal for the compulsory
naming of watches by manufacturers, which
he regarded as requiring the most important
consideration by the trade.

Mr. T. D. Smith agreed that the Mer-
chandise Marks Act had improved the trade
of the city, and it would be a very serious
matter if any important subject affecting
the trade were brought forward in Parlia-
ment to find that the largest watch centre in England
had no voice in what was being done.

The report was then adopted, and the following
elected : — Mr. A. E. Benjamin, secretary ;
Yeomans and Wests, trustees ; Messrs. Bamford
Farren, auditors ; Messrs. A. H. Drinkwater, C.
C. Read, D. Cleaver, J. S. Wilday, J. A.

flings ||eW and ||obeWorbh)Lj,

officers
Messrs.
and S.
Brown,

Jelks, D.
Hannah, W. Hopkins, and H. Oxley, committee. Thanks
being passed to the retiring officers, it was agreed that an
effort should be made by the committee to obtain more
members.

@S@

©JHe MariCet^.

SILVER.

This month has witnessed the neap-tide of the prices of
silver. Opening low at 41}£, in two days it fell to
fvg-, a figure we have never had to record before ; nor
did it rise for two days, and then only to drop again, owing
to the fall off in demand, reaching the lowest we remember,
viz., Hi, a price around which it seemed to hang for the
rest of the month.

TIN.

On the whole tin has been rather unsteady with limits
of about £1, opening at £44 7s. 6d., and after sundry up
and downs it stands at £43 15s.

SPELTER.

Has been somewhat flat during several periods of the
month, and not shown much alteration ; it now stands at
£21 12s. 6d.

QUICKSILVER.

Quicksilver has perhaps varied a little more than usual,
standing sometimes below £7, at others 7s. 6d. above it ;
at present it is £7 2s. 6d.

Bewaee of Forgeries. — It is coming to the ears of some
well-known firms of high repute for their painted lantern
slides that plain photographic slides bearing their name
are being colored in an inferior manner and sold as their
productions. Prosecutions are likely to follow if the
offenders can be run to ground.

Sympathy from over the Sea. — Our esteemed contem-
porary, the Canadian Trader, one of the very best got-up trade
journals on the other side, in the somewhat critical time
now existing in our dominion beyond the sea, often gives
vent to a little expression of wholesome sentiment. We
are 'pleased to note that an editorial of last month is
devoted to "A world-wide sympathy" over the death of
the late Duke of Clarence, the tone of which can be gathered
from the closing sentence : " at such a time even the Royal
Family of an Empire so mighty as Great Britain may
find some consolation in the thought that their sorrow
is shared by loyal and loving subjects." We frequently
cave copies of the American Trade papers, which we should
be pleased to forward to subscribers on receipt of postage.

Local or Souvenir spoons are increasing, and some of them
will compare favorably with those of our American
cousins, with whom the idea may be said to have
originated. The above is one recently made by Messrs.
Vaughton, of Gothic Works, for Mr. Odling, of Lincoln.
It is what such a spoon should be — highly representative of
of what it has to represent. The same firm have also
made souvenir spoons for various other towns and cities, and
we suppose would be able to find subject matter for any
number more.

Of the various inventions
brought out from time to
time, perhaps none as an
entire class can lay such a
claim to absolute usefulness
as the productions of Messrs.
Francis Barker and Son of
ClerkenwellRoad. The above
is an illustration of one of
their productions, which we
have found extremely useful,
and one wonders why on
earth most compasses are not
similarly made, for it entirely
dispenses with the use of
magnifying glasses when
looking over a map, the
glasses of the instrument being in themselves magnifiers,
and capable of being used as such.

3rn==-

APPLICATIONS FOa PATENTS.

[Expressly compiled and contribute I for this Journal by Messrs. W. P. Thompson
and Co., Patent Agents, 6, Bank Street, Manchester ; 6. Lord Street,
Liverpool ; and 323, High Holborn, London. AV.C.)

224.-

235.—

300.-
341.-

744.-

764.-

774.-
853.-
1.002.

1,080.—

1,319-

2,18'.).

2,190.

Improvements in watch-case springs," A. J. Lustig,
London, 5th January, 1892.

Improvements in cases or containers for pince-nez,
spectacles, and the like," F. Houghton, Liverpool,
6th January, 1892.

Improvements in and relating to- snap-hooks for watch-
chains," A. Mitchell, London, 6th January, 1892.

Improvements in brooch-pins and in the way of fasten-
brooches and other similar articles," J. Elkan and A. J.
Needham, London, 7th January, 1892.

Improvements in alarm clocks," H. D. Fitzpatrick,
Glasgow (communicated by G. Offner, Germany), 14th
January, 1892.

Improvements in pince-nez or double eye-glass," A.
Liverpool, 14th January, 1892.

Non-setting lever escapement for use in travelling and
other clocks," J. B. Smith, London, 14th Jan., 1892.

Improvements in sleeve links," H. F. Thake, London
loth January, 1892.

"Transformation adjustable and changeable centres for
brooches, lockets, pendants, earrings, scarf and hair-
pins," G. E. Benton and C. M. McAnultv, Birmingham,
19th January. 1892.

•' Improvements in clocks," H. H. Lake, London (com-
municated by the New Haven Clock Company, United
States), 9th January, 1892.

' Improvements relating to keys for locks, watches, and
the like," H. J. Allen, London, 22nd January, 1892.

" Improvement in fastenings for sleeves, wristbands,
and other like purposes," F. W. Grierson and G. Goring,
London, 4th February, 1892.

" Improvements in and attachments for scarf pins and
brooches," It. O. Williams, London, 4th Feb., 1892.

182

THE WATCHMAKER, JEWELER AND SILVERSMITH.

[March 1, 1892.

(Ufte 0anac|ian ^ifoer d>a>9e.

HE have been asked by a very large silver house if we
can give any particulars of the report now current
of the finds of untold quantities of silver — in fact,
a mountain of it in Canada. We have therefore
great pleasure in supplying the following from our esteemed
contemporary The Western Jeweler : — " A story which
would make Rider Haggard turn pale with envy is being
circulated in Windsor, Ontario, by Harry M. Poussett, a
well-known business man of Sarnia. Mr. Poussett's
romantic tale, which is well substantiated, goes back into
the dim vistas of the past, long before the British conquest
of Canada, when Frontenac and other French military
pioneers ascended the St. Lawrence and founded the fort
and settlement of Frontenac at its source.

"They found the wild and mountainous country lying-
back from the river swarming with Indians, and no Indian
so poor that he could not show ornaments of gold and
silver enough to make a white man's mouth water.

" The Frenchmen wore dazzled with the display and made
every effort to ascertain the source of so much wealth, but
beyond vague hints about a mammoth cave, lined and roofed
with precious metals, they were unable to learn anything.
Some of the soldiery, tradition says, went so far as to seize
an Indian, carry him to a lonely ravine and put him to
torture, but no cruelty could drag the secret from him.

' ' With the advance of civilisation the Indians grew more
tenacious of their secret, and to younger generations of red
men it was not confided, for fear the wily whites might
force or cajole it from them. In the course of years it be-
came only a memory, told at camp fires by old men, to-
gether with the tales of the Wendigo and legends of old
wars and conquests when the world was young.

" The story that is exciting Windsor at present is that the
cave has been found. On the Monday following last
Christmas a miner ran a vein of silver up against a cleft in
the side of a rocky hill on a farm recently purchased by a
syndicate headed by A. P. Poussett, Q.C., which was
choked with brush and overgrown by raspberry bushes.
Forcing his way through the opening the miner found
himself in a narrow passage, walled with jagged rocks and
descending at an angle of about forty-five degrees. He
climbed down for about fifteen feet, and then darkness
became so dense that he returned.

" The engineer in charge of the works was immediately
informed, and, together with the foreman and the dis-
coverer, proceeded to investigate. The passage, which
grew wider as it progressed, extended downward about one
hundred feet into the bowels of the earth. In the steeper
places steps had been rudely cut out of the rock. Toward
the end the incline became more easy, and ended in a
species of flat vestibule, leading through an arch into a
much larger chamber. The safety lamps borne by the
explorers scarcely served to illumine the pitchy darkness,
and so it was found necessary to procure an electric lamp
of great power, which was occasionally used at the works.

" When this was lighted an extraordinary sight met the
eyes of the miners. They found themselves standing upon
a floor of rock, about forty feet in all directions, from
which boulders and debris had been removed and lay in
piles near the walls. The latter were of pink and white
marble of most exquisite quality. On one panel, cut into
the marble were the names: C. P. Meyers, John Smith,
1860.

" Strewed upon the floor were several mining tools, a
smelting pot and some worn out moulds for counterfeiting.
Here and there lay some stone spear and axe-heads and
other Indian instruments. In one corner was a skeleton
robed in skins and feathers. Around the walls rude chinks
were cut, and the remnants of pine torches in some of
them showed that they had been used for lighting purposes.

" But it was not until the lamp was turned upward that

the riches of the cave became apparent. The light shone
on myriads of small stalactites glistening with silver,
while between them veins of gold and copper and patches
of mica and iron pyrites threw back dazzling combina-
tions of color that rivalled the cave of Aladdin in their
magnificence.

" About fifty feet from the entrance was a sheet of limpid
water, extending as far as the eye could see. A dugout made
of an oak tree lay upon a shelf of rock. Satisfying them-
selves that it was seaworthy, the explorers entered it and
punted their way across this subterranean lake for a
distance of over 300 feet. There they found another
platform leading into a second chamber fully 300 feet in
circumference. Here the roof was not more than twenty
feet high, and like the high chamber, was covered with
stalactites about nine inches long. In one place the
miners were able to reach the roof. They picked off about
twelve pounds of the ore, which on being assayed subse-
quently was found to contain 11 dols. worth of pure metal.

"From this chamber low passages branched off in various
directions, but whether they lead to similar chambers is
not yet known.

' ' An effort was made to keep the discovery secret until
the whole cave could be explored and surveyed and more
land acquired, but the story leaked out through indiscre-
tion and farm lands in the vicinity have sprung up to
fabulous prices. The cave is being guarded by soldiers."

<Uf\e (§vofeUmitftil>' anil (§{enefaf S^urgfarij
(#ru3>uranee ePV&^oeiafion.

BN February 5th the above company held their statutory
general meeting at the Guildhall Tavern, the African
hero, Capt. Cameron, C.B., in the chair. The chair-
man explained that the meeting was called simply
in compliance with the law. However, he was able to
place before them a number of figures which must be very
gratifying to all our readers who took our advice and took
shares in this well-managed concern. Although only
established three months it has issued 570 policies, the
premiums on which amount to £1,100, against which only
two claims have been made, one referred to in our last issue
for £49, and one for £6 5s. Both these were promptly
met, much to the satisfaction of others, who immediately
took policies in an office transacting its business in such a
commendable manner. Mr. Layman called attention to
the small costs of the formation of the company, which all
told and of every description amounted to only £660 ; also
to the fact that they were all business men, who were
determined to make it a sound affair, and that as time
went on they hoped to be able to offer even greater advan-
tages. We should therefore advise our readers ivho have
not taken out policies to do so, as original accounts will be
first considered.

A printer's error of the simplest nature sometimes
occasions much misunderstanding. Our attention has
been drawn to the fact that the printers of our Diary
advertisement pages by putting an :'S" in the wrong place
have transformed the well-known Birmingham firm of
manufacturing jewelers, Henry Griffith and Sons, into
Henry Griffiths and Son, whilst in the list of telegraphic
addresses they have contrived to omit the word "Henry," a
particularly unfortunate omission, seeing that there are
others in Birmingham in the same line whose business
title is very similar to that of Messrs. Henry Griffith and
Sons. We trust, however, that no confusion has resulted
in the minds of our readers who have desired to favor this
excellent firm with their orders. Messrs. Henry Griffith
and Sons' advertisement appears on another page in the
present number.

March 1, 1892.]

THE WATCHMAKER, JEWELER AND SILVERSMITH.

©omparw, feimitec[.

HE third annual meeting of shareholders
of the above company, was held at the
factory, Prescot, on the 11th ult., Mr. W.
D. Houghton in the chair. There was a
good attendance, and from remarks inad-
vertently dropped during the evening, it
became evident that should any more capital
be required, there are numbers amongst them anxious to
subscribe it. The chairman very ably commented upon
the various points in the report ; one important one being
the contemplation of ability to put complete watches upon
the market during this year. Both the chairman
and Mr. Hewett spoke in terms of the greatest
satisfaction of the manner in which their "new
movement " had been received — not that that is likely to
surprise anyone who has seen it. Mr. William Clarkson,
Liverpool, became a director. After so prosperous a year
the usual thanks and compliments were passed and
acknowledged. The following extracts from the directors'
report are interesting : — " Your directors are pleased to
announce that the new movements are now being made in
considerable numbers, there being a large demand for the
same, and it may be confidently anticipated that a con-
siderable increase of profit should accrue to the company
henceforth.

" During the year a machine shop has been built and is
being fitted with necessary tools and machinery, and a
three storey building is in course of erection, which is
expected to be ready June next, for the accommodation of
jewelers, escapement-makers, finishers, etc.

" The managing director fully hopes to place complete
watches on the market during the next twelve months,
and your directors are desirous that the balance of the
preference shares should be taken up at once by the present
shareholders and their friends.

Profit and Loss Account for 12 Months ending December
31st, 1891.
Feb. 13. 1891. Dr. £ s. d.

To dividend of 6 per cent, on capital subscribed, as

per resolution of shareholders 1927 2 0

,, Interest on calls paid in advance 138 4 3

,, Machinery account, amount written off ditto ... 500 0 0
,, Goodwill and Trademarks, amount written off

ditto ...
,, To balance

Dec. 31, 1890. Cr.

By balance brought forward...

500 0
1334 12

£4,399 18

£ s.
4399 18

£4,399 18

Dec. 31, 1890. Dr.

To stock on hand ...

,, Less cost of new movements to
this date
Dec. 31, 1891.
To purchase of raw materials
„ Wages and salaries
,, Tools and utensils
,, Eepairsto premises and machinery
,, Eent, rates, taxes, gas, coal, & oil
,, Travelling expenses, carriage of
goods, printing and stationery,
office expenses, law costs and
charges...
„ Interest and discount
,, Interest on mortgage debt
,, Directors and Auditors' fees

£
12303

7 4

1133 14 11

1538 15
. 15393 6

149 0
7 437 1

653 17
f

4
10

0
11
11

}

. 466 6
777 10
277 19
256 12

7
0
3

£ s. d.

11169 12 5

,, Balance

Feb. 13, 1891. Cr.

By Balance brought down ...

Dec. 31.
,, Sales
„ Stock on hand

183

.. 4832 9 11

£35,952 12 2

£ s. d.

.. 1334 12 8

.. 22664 11 3

.. 11953 8 3

£35,952 12 2

Balance Sheet, 31st December, 1891.
To Capital: Dr. £ s. d. £

5,000 £10 Ordinary Shares full paid
up
Less calls in arrear

... 50000 0 0
2686 10 0

47313 10 0

1,941 £10 6 per cent. Preference

Shares fully paid up 19410 0 0

Less calls in arrear 385 0 0

19025 0

66,338 10
To Barr's Banking Co., loan on mortgage and

interest _ •■• 6635 15

,, Sundry creditors 2167 13 0

, Loans 3900 0 0

6067 13

„ Balance of Profit and Loss Account 4832 9 11
Less Interim dividend paid on
Preference Shares to June 30/91 297 15 4

4534 14

£83,576 13

By Land, Buildings, and Machinery, viz. :

Land and buildings — 12681 7 0

Machinery, fixtures, fittings,

fixed plant, tools, and loose plant 38444 14 7

,, Purchase of Goodwill and Trade-
marks ... ... ••• ••• 5928 1 9

Less amount written off ... 500 0 0

51126 1 7

,, Stockonhand

Cost of New Watch Movements 6130 0 6
Less value of Stock ditto ... 3384 0 8

5428 1
11953 8

„ Stock of New Watch Movements

,, Book debts ••

,, Cash in hand and in Bank

2745 19
.. 3384 0
.. 7155 16
... 1783 4

£83,576 13

10
8
9
5

19950 9 10

A company under the name of the Jewelers' Bankruptcy
Syndicate, Limited, has been registered with a capital of
£10,000 in £5 shares to carry into effect an agreement be-
tween J. L. Castiglione and R. Woolley, on behalf of this
company for the acquisition of the undertaking of a dealer
in watches, jewelry, bric-a-brac, pictures, etc., now carried
on by J. L. Castiglione, at 63, St. Paul's Churchyard, and
9, Holywell Street, Strand, and to carry on and extend
the same in all its branches. The company has been
registered without special articles of association.

The premises of Messrs B. Smith and Son, 183, Camber-
well Road, were destroyed by fire on the 13th ult. The
cause of the fire is unknown.

We notice that Her Majesty's Stationery Office has
decided to admit a limited number of approved advertise-
ments in their two official publications, the Trade Marks
Journal and the Illustrated Official Journal of Patents.
We should think that this would be very much appreciated
by manufacturers, as it will serve as a permanent protective
record. All communications in reference to this branch
should be addressed to the advertisement department, 5,
Queen Victoria Street, London, E.C,

184

THE WATCHMAKER, JEWELER AND SILVERSMITH.

[March 1, 1892.

^veig^feLj difiarify d>up aaiL Me©Lafx*>

i i i i ■:

cup is a massive silver vessel, simple yet beautiful in

conception and execution, designed and manufactured

J. by Messrs. Fattorini and Son, of Bradford, Yorks.

A large diamond-shaped panel takes up the front,

on which is engraved the inscription ; and, on the reverse

side, is inscribed the arms and crest of the Borough of

Keighley. Between the panels are numerous geometrical
ornamentations. The foot of the stem is richly decorated
in like manner ; and the stem itself, though simple, is in
admirable relief to the whole. Ample space is provided
for recording the names of the winning teams.

The medals, which are about half the size of sketch, are
of solid silver, with a special gold one for the captain, are
also manufactured by Messrs. Fattorini and Sons. Each

medal is provided with a ring, so that it may be attached
to the watch guard. The centre of the shield is occupied
by the arms and crest of Keighley, emblazoned in the
correct heraldic colors. The crest is a griffin's head, and
this is surrounded by chastely engraved laurel wreaths..

©Jfte eKrti^Lic (Hreafmer^f of

^ecoef anc[ J\c[d/ex^-(I>a&iCef,&.

By J. WILLIAM TONKS.
A Paper read before the Society of Arts, February 23)v/, 1892.

HE subject I have chosen for this evening
has been invested from the earliest times
with an atmosphere of poetry and romance.
It is a central element of one of the most
interesting Greek myths ; it furnishes
a principal scene in one of Shakespeare's
finest dramas, and it has in all ages been

adopted as an apt and suggestive symbol. Thus an old

poet of the Middle Ages exclaims : —

0 ignorant pool- man ! What dost thou bear
Locked up within the casket of thy breast ?
What jewels and what riches hast thou there
What heavenly treasure in so weak a chest?

It is more significant that in the most ancient literature
to which we have access, a casket, a box, an ark, contained
the most sacred religious symbols, while its golden summit
reflected the messages of mercy from the Most High. We
are told that Bezaleel (Exodus xxxvii. i. 9, revised version),
the earliest goldsmith whose name has come down to us
on the tide of history, made an oblong box, whose propor-
tions were strikingly similar to those adopted for caskets
in the best periods (2| by \\ by 1£), for the purpose of con-
taining sacred symbols. The box itself was of acacia wood,
this material being of an enduring character ; and this
body was lined and covered with gold. A crown, or raised
moulding of gold, was placed along the upper edge. Then
four rings of gold were fixed on the lower sides or literally
" ribs " of it, through which were placed two thin poles or
staves, also covered with gold, and by means of which it
was carried about after the manner of a palanquin. The
box was covered with a dome or " mercy seat " of gold, so
made that it could attract light and focus its effulgence to
the spectator. At each side were mystic, winged figures
of cherubim, of beaten work in gold, facing each other, and
with wings stretched on high towards each other, in
striking resemblance to the style adopted in pourtraying
winged figures in the most ancient Egyptian hieroglyphs.

This description is of importance, not only as marking a
high degree of artistic achievement, but as also affording a
kind of model upon which works of this kind in various
countries have afterwards been constructed. It derives
additional interest from its close relation to early Egyptian
forms, and which to some extent it aids in explaining. In
the magnificent series of illustrations prepared under the
direction of Champollion le Jeune, during the invasion of
Egypt by Napoleon L, there is a remarkable drawing which
I have roughly figured. It is a box of ancient character,
having a rim or moulding, the form observing the propor-
tion of 2^ by H, and having in centre of body two
open eyes, probably representing the unsleeping watchful-
ness of the Almighty. This box, curiously enough, has
two poles or staves, and these proceed from the ribs, in
fact they partly complete the form of a highly conventional
lion. The lion, as suggestive of power, is evidently sym-
bolic. Another singular figure, also from Champollion, is
an ensign, apparently formed of a sloping side box, with
an animal, perhaps a fox, seated on top. I fear this
is attributable to a much later period, as there is in South
Kensington Museum a wooden box very similar in shape,
but without any figure surmounting it, and which may be
either a casket, or a chasse — a depository of the relics or
ashes of the dead.

Coming from Egypt to Greece, a true historic transition,
we first begin to find the jewel casket. This was called

Mabch 1, 1892]

THE WATCHMAKER, JEWELER AND SILVERSMITH.

185

by the Greeks and Latins " pyxis," probably because
originally made of box-wood, and in it tbey placed and
kept for safety their parures or jewels. The simple box-
wood caskets, quite adequate in those early days, are often
figured upon the exquisite vases that have come down to
us. I have here enlarged two specimens from vases in
the famous Englefield collection. They are oblong, simple
in form, consistent with their use, and with the purpose
they were designed to serve, the decoration being always in
conventional and geometric bands. The proportion
usually adopted is still that of the sacred box or ark of the
Israelites, 2h by H by H. I know but of one example in
the cubic form, but that again illustrates the principle. It
is that of the statue of Venus rising from the sea in the
Chigi Palace. The goddess has one of these oblong caskets
at her feet, thus sufficiently indicating their use and the
devotion of their contents to the adornment and service of
beauty.

It is a singular and suggestive fact that in the Greek
mythology, a box or casket is intimately related to the first
mortal woman who was created. Prometheus, one of the
earliest mortals, whose name has ever since been held as
the synonym of Genius, exceeded all others, we are told,
in ability and artifice, so much so that he was able, at a
famous sacrifice, to deceive even Jupiter, the chief of the
immortal gods. To punish him and his fellows, Jove is
said to have taken fire away from the earth. But, assisted
by Minerva, the goddess of Wisdom, the undaunted Pro-
metheus climbed the heavens, and stealing fire from the
chariot of the Sun, brought it down with him to the earth.
The father of gods and men, enraged at such audacity,
ordered Vulcan to make a woman of clay, and, after giving
her life, to send her to Prometheus, with a casket of costly
presents from the gods. As soon as she was endowed with
life, all the gods and goddesses of Olympus vied with each
other in presenting her with gifts. Beauty and the art of
enrapturing the children of men she received from Venus,
and from the Graces all their captivating charms. Apollo
taught her to sing divinely, Mercury gave to her the most
persuasive eloquence of a woman's tongue, and Minerva
blest her with a wise discretion. Hence she was called
Pandora, from Greek words signifying " all-gifted." But
Jupiter himself presented her with a last and fatal gift.
It was a casket filled with innumerable ills, which she was
desired to offer to the mortal who espoused her. Mercury
himself conducted this lovely creation to Prometheus, clad
in all her charms. The wary and sagacious mortal, whether
from the lofty disdain born at times of highest genius, or
from a cool judgment which led him to suspect that there
was danger in the all too glorious vision, to the surprise
and anger of the immortals, declined the proffered bliss.
Unfortunately for poor humanity, Prometheus had a
brother, Epimetheus, less wary, or more sensible to female
charms, who was entranced by the beauty of the heaven-
descended maiden, and immediately rushed into her arms.
He married her, received the box, opened it in haste, when
there issued from it a multitude of evils and distempers,
which speedily dispersed themselves over all the earth, and
which have not since ceased to afflict mankind. He shut
the casket again in haste, but nearly all were gone. Hope
alone, which Jove had compassionately enclosed in this
unhappy gift, had not time to escape from the box. Hope,
therefore, remains as the only consolation left to unhappy
mortals amid all the ills that flesh is heir to.

This beautiful myth is so closely related to my subject
that I could not forbear recounting it. The curious may
find in it a singular analogy, with the symbolic allegory of
the origin of evil, given in the most ancient portion of the
Hebrew Scriptures. The Greek form is much later, is less
direct, and more poetic in treatment ; but the fact that, in
Greek myth, Deucalion, the grandson of Pandora, is the Noah
of the Grecian Flood, seems to emphasise the conclusion.
(To he continued. )

Sn. ctncj @ut tipe d)ou.rfl&.

What Constitutes a 'Watch Once More. — Mr. Justice
Day and a jury in the recent case of The " England," s :
Marples v. the National Steamship Company, in the Court of
Queen's Bench, have given a different idea of what con-
stitutes a watch from that given in the " test " case — so
much for " test " cases ! Briefly stated, the facts are these :
112 watch-movements were consigned from America to
England to be put into English cases — let us hope to be
stamped " Foreign make " — and these got lost in transit.
Now it appears that Section 503 of the Merchants' Shipping-
Act, 1854, indemnifies the owner of any sea-going ship
against the loss or damage of any gold, silver, diamonds,
loatches, jewels, or precious stones taken on board, unless
the true nature of the property is declared in writing on
the bill of lading. The question to settle was whether these
articles were or were not watches, and the jury returned a
verdict that the movements, which had no dials, but were
in every other respect complete and "going," were not
watches. A decision of great importance this.

An Important Case. — A very important case was decided
on Feb. 11 in the Queen's Bench Division. Mr. Scott,
the Plaintiff, Jeweler, in Hull, last year suffered the loss of
a large quantity of jewelry, valued at £4,000, by a burglary
committed on the premises. In consequence of the ab-
straction of this property, Mr. Scott brought two actions
on policies of insurance covering the loss by the burglary —
one against the Security Society and the other against the
Mercantile and Guarantee Company. After the actions
had proceeded some way, it was agreed that the action
against the Security Company should be tried first, the
other not to go on until that was disposed of. The sub-
stantial defence to this case was that the jewelry had been
stolen by persons in the plaintiff's employment, and that,
there being an exception in the policy relating to loss of
that kind, the defendants were not liable. The defendants
also pleaded that the plaintiff had been negligent with
respect to the jewelry. Some months after the loss of the
jewelry, one of tho plaintiff's assistants discovered a large
quantity of lost jewelry tied up in a parcel on the plaintiff's
own premises one morning when the shop was opened.
The parcel was immediately handed over to the police who
had been investigating the case. The action against the
Security Insurance Company was settled by the plaintiff
accepting a sum of money, and the present action against
the Mercantile Company remained. The defendants were
forcing the plaintiff on with that action, and an order had
been made that it should be tried at the forthcoming Leeds
Assizes. The plaintiff now called upon the Chief Constable
of Hull to give him back his jewelry, and he declined to do
so, except under the order of the Court, on the ground that
an agreement was come to between the parties that he
should hold the jewelry until the action had been tried.
The learned counsel submitted that it was immaterial to
consider whether such an arrangement had been arrived at
or not, as the jurisdiction of the Court did not depend upon
agreement between the parties, but depended on the rules
giving the Court power. Having heard counsel on the
other side, the Court decided that the appeal must be
allowed, and gave judgment accordingly, the jewelry to be
returned to the plaintiff.

Pawning in the Jewelry Trade.— At the Central
Criminal Court, on the 12th ult., David Maurice, Jeweler,
pleaded guilty to pledging three bracelets within four
months of the presentation of his bankruptcy petition, also
to concealing two other bracelets which he should have
discovered to the trustee, and which he had pledged in
March, and afterwards repledged after the filing of the
petition. It was admitted that the defendant had made
frank answers in his public examination and had spoken
the truth as to the causes of his failure. The importance

is (J

THE WATCHMAKER, JEWELER AND SILVERSMITH.

[March 1, 1892.

of the case arose from the fact of a decision whioh[was"giverj
at that court in May, 1891, before the late Recorder, that
it was a legitimate thing for jewelers to pledge articles con-
signed to them on approbation. That decision, however,
the prosecutor in this case desired to repudiate as distinctly
untenable. The Treasury counsel said it must be perfectly
char that the pledging by the retailer of the property sent to
him by the manufacturer — whether jewelry or anything
else — must be considered as out of the ordinary course of
business, and was not good trade ; nor could a legal trade
custom be established where such a condition of things
existed. The case referred to was that of the Queen v.
Imperiali. It was only just to say that in that instance
the alleged trade custom was strongly repudiated by the
manufacturer, but it was upheld by some pawnbrokers.
The mischief of the decision had been so great, that it was
most desirable to inform the trade that this decision could
not be acted upon, and the plea of guilty here recorded
ought to be of public value more important than the plea
itself. Defendant's liabilities were £3,000; his assets £865.
Mr. Grain, on behalf of the defendant, said that he
pleaded on his advice. He had explained that certain
acts alleged against him would constitute a misdemeanour
under the Debtors' Act unless he (defendant) could
satisfy the jury that there was no intention in what he
did to defraud his creditors. The evidence, however, was
of such a character that in his (the learned counsel's)
opinion the defendant would have been unable to convince
the jury in his favor. He desired at once to repudiate the
decision in the case referred to by Mr. Matthews. The
obtaining goods from creditors and pawning them, no
matter for their under-value or full value, could not, he
submitted, under any circumstances be considered a legi-
timate custom of trade. It was, notwithstanding, a very
prevalent custom, no doubt, of getting goods on appro-
bation for the purpose of sale, and then the persons, either
having no capital at all, or having lost their capital,
pawning them for the purpose of raising money to tide
over their temporary pecuniary embarrassment. This was
a most pernicious custom, and the sooner it was stopped
the better. Mr. Commissioner Kerr : What is the date of
this case? Mr. Grain: May, 1891, my Lord. Mr.
Matthews said that the defendant had been a bankrupt
before, and for a much larger sum. Mr. Grain said that
the prisoner's present position could only be explained by
saying plainly " that he had got into a muddle with his
business " by his system of obtaining goods and then
pawning them. Mr. Commissioner Kerr said that the
object of the case being to end a vicious system, and as the
prosecutions were taken not so much with the view to
punish offenders as to deter other's from committing crime,
under the circumstances of this case he should order the
defendant to enter into recognisances of the surety of £200
to come up for judgment when called upon. In reply to
an observation of counsel, Mr. Commissioner Kerr said
that he repudiated the doctrine which appeared to have
been laid down in the case of the Queen /•. Imperiali, and
he was of opinion that the pledging of the property under
those conditions was a distinct contravention of the 15th
Sub-section of the 11th Section of the Debtors' Act.

The Danger of Charging a Person with Theft. —A case
was heard in the Queen's Bench Division on Feb. 5th in
which Walter Munroe, a music-hall artist, sued a peripatetic
jeweler named Abrahams for damages for slander. It
appears that while performing at Margate the plaintiff
went to a bar where he saw Abrahams displaying some
jewelry. Upon being informed of the new arrival, Abrahams
immediately showed him a diamond pin, and subsequently
some other things, which the plaintiff handed back to him.
Subsequently, finding that he had not got the pin, the
defendant accused the plaintiff of having it, and even went
outside and tried to get a police officer to take him in
charge. In defence, Abrahams argued that he did not

accuse him of stealing it, as he thought he was playing a
practical joke with him, and got the policemen in to try
to frighten him out of it. The jury found for the plaintiff,
damages £75.

Window Smashing Again. — The noble art of brick
throwing is by no means confined to the County of
London. Mr. Wacholder, of Market Place, Hull, recently
had his window smashed in this popular fasbion, and
about £400 worth of goods stolen. The perpetrator was
seen to throw the brick and decamp, and was eventually
caught, although only part of the proceeds were found
upon him. He will be out of the way of loose bricks now
for the next six months.

A Shocking Elopement. — We sometimes think we are
made up of laws, but it is interesting to remember that we
can often get justice not obtainable elsewhere. A most
painful instance of this is the case of a young French
jeweler, who has just fled from his maternal roof to
England, bringing with him 875,000 francs, the property
of his widow-mother. But there is no law in France to
protect parents from the robbery of their children ; conse-
quently she is powerless in the matter.

Remarkable Capture of a Thief. — Robert Puisaye, 28,
a foreigner, describing himself as of no occupation, and
giving an address in Charing Cross, was recently sentenced
to six months' imprisonment at Marlborough Street for
stealing a diamond brooch, valued at £18, belonging to
Mr. Maurice Moses, a jeweler, of Oxford Street. Puisaye
called at Mr. Moses's shop and inspected some jewelry,
giving Count Puisaye as his name. Almost immediately
after he was gone a diamond star was missed, a fact of
which Mr. Moses apprised the police. Mr. Moses then
set out to make independent inquiries at West End
jewelers' and pawnbrokers' shops to see if he could come
upon any trace of Puisaye or of his property. After
having called at several places without success, he went
into Cranbourne Street, and pushing open the door of the
shop of Mr. Hawes, a pawnbroker, found himself, to his
astonishment, face to face with the man he was in search
of. Puisaye, seeming to recognise him, at once ran into
Charing Cross Road, with Mr. Moses in close pursuit,
crying, " Stop thief." On the way to the police-station he
threw away an envelope, which was found to contain a
contract note with Mr. Attenborough, of Oxford Street,
for the pledging of the missing brooch. An earring and a
pearl broocb, which Puisaye also pawned with Mr. Atten-
borough, were found to be Mr. Moses's property.

A Gutter Bargain. — In the month of November last a
confiding fellow named Edward Brian whilst walking near
the curb had the pleasure of seeing a gentleman pick up a
ring, which by trying on the first plate-glass window at
hand they pronounced a diamond. However, the good-
natured finder was willing to forego his claim for 9s.
Since then Brian has lost faith in gutter bargains, and his
only hope in life was that he should come across another.
The other night that wish was granted. But oddly enough
the memory of the rogue was at fault, otherwise he would
not have attempted the second time on the same individual.
However, Brian was able to keep him in conversation
until a constable arrived, when he was given into custody.

The Responsibility of Jobbers. — A somewhat important
case was recently decided at the Clerkenwell County Court
in which Israel Kurman, dealer, sued Messrs. Peck and
Levell, St. John's Square, for £4 10s., the value of a
clock case, and damages. On the other side there was a
counter-claim fcr 6s. 6d., work done. It ultimately became
evident that in altering the method of decoration from
marbling to bronzing a flaw in the casting had been made
visible, which was filled and invisible under the former con-
ditions. This having been proved to the judge's satisfac-
tion, judgment was given for Messrs. Peck, with costs,
together with 6s. 6d. for repairs.

Another Clock Case. — At the Brentford County-court,

March 1, 1892.]

THE WATCHMAKER, JEWELER AND SILVERSMITH.

187

before his Honor Judge Stonor, the case of Stevens v.
Gore was heard. The plaintiff sued the defendant,
William Gore, a painter and house decorator, of Chaucer
Road, Acton, to recover the sum of £4, in respect of an
antique clock-case entrusted to the defendant for repair.
Defendant put in a counter-claim for £10, for labor done
and material supplied in repairing and renovating the case.
His Honor said that the defendant having a lien on
this case, until the plaintiff had paid him for its repair, the
action now brought by the plaintiff must fail, and the
counter-claim must fail with it. He allowed the defendant
cost on the counter-claim, and intimated that the latter
would still have his cause of action in respect of the repair
of the case.

Moee Counter-clajms at Liverpool. — Osmund Turner
sued William Parkes, Watchmaker, of Seymour Street,
for 8s. 6d. damage to a watch. Mr. J. C. Clarke was for the
plaintiff and Mr. D. J. Geddes for the defendant. The
plaintiff said he left the watch to be repaired for Is. 6d.,
but the defendant so damaged it that it cost him 8s. 6d.
to have it put right. This the defendant denied, and
added that when he examined the watch he found it much
out of repair. He told the plaintiff, who would have
nothing more done to the watch, and took it away. His
Honor gave judgment for the defendant, with costs.

(palette.

Bankruptcy Record.
Feran, Stephen, Jeweler and Jet Ornament Manufacturer, late

15, Victoria Square, Whitby ; now 28, Summer Hill

Terrace, Birmingham.
List of Creditors —

Meybaek, Lang, and Feltheimer
Brandon Bros —

Cos, W. F

Downing, A.
Dinwoody and Willmott
Forrester Bros.
Groves, John ...
Leather, W. H.
*Loveridge, George
Levi and Salaman
Mackenzie and Goode...

£ s. d.

London

40 8 6

Birmingham

16 11 10

28 18 10

22 18 10

30 4 3

24 2 6

77 1 10

107 16 10

75 17 9

27 17 7

• 26 11 6

Hurlston, Alfred, Watch Manufacturer and Watch Material
Dealer, trading as A. Hurlston and Co., 9, Russell Terrace,
Chapel Fields, Coventry, and Bridge Street, Banbury.
Receiving Order : Jan. 22. First Meeting : Official Re-
ceiver's, Coventry, Feb. 5 at 12. Examination : County
Hall, Coventry, Feb. 29 at 2.30. Adjudication : Jan. 23.

List of Creditors —

Bourgeous, — ... London

Emery, Brevine ... ... Coventry

Hurlston, Miss Amy ...
Read and Son

Shaw, —

Partly Secured Creditors
Bankers' Claims

£ s. d.

159 0 0

25 0 0

514 0 0

21 9 0

14 10 0

506 1 5

Marshall, Henry Robert, Optician, 18 and 19, Minster Street,
Reading. Receiving Order and Adjudication : Feb. 6.
First Meeting : Official Receiver's, 95, Temple Chambers,
Temple Avenue, London, Feb. 25. Examination : Assize
Courts, Reading, Mar. 10.

Skerritt, Robert, Watch and Clock Maker, Jeweler, and
Optician, High Street, York Town, and 3, Kelsey Cottages,
Blackwater, late 168, Stamford Street, Blackfriars. First
Meeting : 24, Railway Approach, London Bridge, Jan. 29
Examination: Town Hall, Guildford, Feb. 9. Adjudica-
tion : Jan. 19.

List of Creditors —

Grimshaw and Baxter

London and South- Western Railway

Company ...
Stotterd, General

Stotherd, Mrs

Frasier Bros. ...
Boncherett, Miss
Grieves, A.

London

Camberley

Frimley

Sandhurst

York Town

Deeds of Arrangement.

Cato and Co. (Logan, William Arthur, trading as), Watch-
maker and Jeweler, 39, Oxford Street, Chorlton-upon-
Medlock, and 131, Upper Moss Lane, Hulme, Man-
chester. Trustee : Marshall Preston, 21, Kennedy Street,
Manchester, C.A. Secured creditors, ±4 10s. Dated Feb. 5 ;
filed Feb. 9 ; unsecured liabilities, ±188 10s. 3d. ; estimated
net assets, ±'73 8s. 7d.

List of Creditors—

Whittaker, Olga
Hughes, William
Ross, Arthur ...
Warmisham, John
Meyer, Samuel
Grantham, William ...

£ s.

Cheshire

45 0

Manchester

21 9

35 0

15 12

10 10

) J

10 10

Milner, Sarah Louise Leman (trading as Cooper, J., and Son),
Silversmith and Jeweler, ll, London Street, Norwich, Nor-
folk, and residing at Brunswick House, Warwick Road,
Olton, near Birmingham (wife of Robert Milner). Trustee :
Charles Larking, Norwich, F.S.A. Dated Jan. 14 ; filed
Jan. 20 ; unsecured liabilities, ±1,253 6s. Id. ; estimated
net assets, ±1,099 lis. 8d.

Cubin, William Holloway, Jeweler, 7, Crown Street, and 10,
Navigation Road, Northwich, Chester. Composition of 5s.
in the ±, payable on or before Feb. 13, 1892. Dated Jan. 28 ;
filed Feb. 1 ; unsecured liabilities, ±70 6s. 2d.

Seymour, Charles Windso
smith and Jeweler,
Trustee : Edward P.
London, E.C., C.A.
liabilities, ±3,488 8s,

List of Creditors —

Atkin Bros

Barber, —

Grimshaw and Baxter
Troup and Sons

Hayes, T

Reynolds, J. L.
Osgood, —

Seeker, E. O

Brooks, —
Bedborough, —
Holderness, W. B.
Neville, Reid, and Co.
Peters and Son

r, Watch and Clock Maker and Silver-
27, High Street, Windsor, Berks.
Wilson, 11, Old Jewry Chambers,

Dated Feb. 3 ; filed Feb. 9 ; unsecured
2d. ; estimated net assets, ±1,500.

London

2,708

Birmingham 34

Newbury

250

Slough

Windsor

Thompson, Henry Gardner, Jeweler, 259, Lord Street, and 41,
Scarisbrick New Road, Southport. Trustee and Assignee :
Clara Thompson (widow), 109, Eastbank Street, Southport,
Jeweler. Composition of 13s. in the ±, payable by three
equal instalments, on April 1, June 1, and Aug. 1, 1892,
secured by assignee, and assignment to hereof stock-in-trade,
fixtures, book debts, &c, upon trust, &c. Secured creditors,
±32. Dated Feb. 26 ; filed Feb. 28 ; unsecured liabilities,
±890 3s. 6d. ; estimated net assets, ±636 13s. 3d.

List of Creditors —

Bendon, J., and Co. ...
Griffith, William, and Son
Blanckensee, Mayer ...
Allen and Martin
Constantine and Floyds
Finger, A.
Shoeps Bros

£ s. d.

London 15 0 0

Birmingham 227 11 9

125 17 4

45 6 7

23 12 5

Liverpool 18 6 0

Manchester 24 9 0

188

THE WATCHMAKER, JEWELER AND SILVERSMITH.

[March 1, 1892.

Thompson, It. E.
Thompson, Mrs. C.
Bentinck, William

Southport 25 0 0

316 16 5

26 6 8

Walters and George (George Joseph Reed, trading as), Jeweler,
270, Regent Street, W. Trustee : Ambrose William
Boughton, 52, Gracechurch Street, E.G., accountant, with a
committee of inspection. Deed of assignment upon trust
with power to trustee (with creditors' assent) to carry on
the business for a period of eighteen months from date
hereof (or morel, with a view to the gradual liquidation of
the estate. Secured creditors, .£2,616. Dated Jan. 27,
filed Jan. 30, 1892 ; unsecured liabilities, ±'2,055 Is. 7d. ;
estimated net assets, ±2,868 14s. 2d.

Private Meeting.
Tucker W., and Co., Jewelers and Silversmiths, Clare Street,
Bristol.

STATEMENT OF AFFAIRS.
Liabilities.

£ s. d. £ s. d.
Unsecured Creditors ... ... ... 2,765 10 1

Creditors fully secured ... ... ... 574 0 0

Estimated value of securities ... 655 18 0

Surplus to contra

81 18 0

Creditors partly secured ... ... 828 14 4

Less estimated value of securities 91 11 0

Creditors for rent, rates, taxes, wages,

&c, to be paid in full, see contra ... 78 0 0

Assets.

Stock-in-Trade at cost less 20 per cent.

Book Debts, viz. : —

Good 83 19 8

Doubtful 1 16 9

Bad 22 16 10

737 3 4

3,502 13 5
2,314 12 7

108 13 3

Estimated to produce ... ... ... 84 11 11

Cash in hand 8 18 10

Fittings, fixtures, and utensils, at value ... ... 162 9 6

Surplus from securities held by creditors fully

secured, as per contra ... ... ... ... 81 18 0

2,652 10 10
Less creditors for rent, &c, to be paid in full 78 0 0

2,574 10 10
Deficiency 928 2 7

±3,502 13 5

At a meeting held at the Queen's Hotel, Birmingham,
on the 28th ult., it was resolved, " That if security to
the satisfaction of the chairman, Mr. Mole (Manton and Mole),
jmd Mr. E. T. Collins, of Bristol, for the last two instalments of
13s. 4d. in the £, payable by equal instalments at 4, 8, 12, and
16 months, be forthcoming, this meeting agrees to accept same,
and recommend its acceptance to absent creditors ; failing such
security being tendered within 10 days the debtor be called
upon to execute a deed of absolute assignment to Messrs. E. T.
Collins (Bristol), and G. G. Poppleton (Birmingham), as trustees,
and Mr. Woodward (Manton and Mole), Mr. Green (Sharp and
Green), and Mr. Knibb (Sloan and Carter), as a committee of
inspection."

Notices to Creditors.

Abbatt, John Joseph, Watchmaker and Jeweler, 32, Stramon-
gate and 15, Stricklandgate, Kendal, Westmoreland. Deed
of Assignment executed Jan. 11. Claims to T. G. Thomp-
son, 51, Highgate, Kendal, by March 9.

Edwards, William Jones, Jeweler and General Dealer, Church
Place, Penrhyndendraeth, Merioneth. Second dividend of
lO.jd. at Official Receiver's, Chester, Feb. 9.

Grayson, Frederick, Electro-plate Manufacturer, trading as B.
Grayson and Company, 16, Garden Street and 19, Have-
lock Street, Sheffield. Proofs for intended dividend by
Feb. 18. Trustee ; Official Receiver, Sheffield.

Lesser, Solomon, Jeweler, 3, Alfred Place, Bedford Square,

late 19, Frith Street, Soho, and 54, Shaftesbury Avenue.

Application for debtor's discharge : High Court of Justice

in Bankruptcy, Feb. 26, at 11.
Marsh, Charles Henry Cromwell, Watchmaker and Jeweler ;

8, Belgrave Road, and 2, Five-Post Lane, Dover. Proofs

for intended dividend bv Feb. 8 Trustees : E. P. Wilson,

11. Old Jewry Chambers, E.C., C.A.
Taffinder, Frank, Watchmaker and Jeweler, 40, High Street.

Rotherham. Proofs for intended dividend by Feb. 18,

Trustee : Official Receiver, Sheffield.

Dissolutions of Partnerships,

Allan, R. and A., Watchmakers and Jewelers, Cumnock.
Dec. 31, 1891, by retiral of the trustees of the late Robert
Allan. Debts by Alexander Allan, who continues under
the same style.

Cloud and Shapland, Gold and Silversmiths, Watchmakers,
Dealers in Works of Art, and Pawnbrokers, 207, High
Holborn. Jan. 18. Debts by Charles WiUiam Shapland.

LETTERS TO THE EDITOR.

THE CERTIFICATE OF THE BRITISH HORO-
LOGICAL INSTITUTE.

To the Editor of The Watchmaker, Jeweler and
Silversmith.

Dear Sir, — We notice in your December issue a letter
from a correspondent on the subject, " The British Horo-
logical Institute, its Diplomas, and Low-priced Watch
Repairing." There is in this town (not a hundred miles
from Manchester) a jobbing watchmaker (of marvellous
skill) who professes to clean watches at the foregoing figure,
and will also do other jobs at equally low prices. In his
window you will find a diploma of the fiorological Institute.
Would you kindly inform us benighted duffers : First, What
or where is the Horological Institute ? Second, How are
its diplomas to be obtained (whether by viva voce exami-
nation or correspondence, or does a candidate send in
specimens of his work, or is the work done before an
examiner of the Institute in London) ? If the examination
is not conducted in London, what steps are taken by the
examiners to prove the bona fides of the work and knowledge
of candidates ? We should also like to know of any further
point relating to the cost of diplomas, curriculum, etc. By
furnishing the foregoing information you would greatly
oblige a suspicious group of

" Pivoters."

We do not publish the foregoing letter from any want
of appreciation of the work of the Horological Institute.
Fortunately, we know it well, and have referred to it with
no uncertain sound on previous occasions. We have no
doubt that someone able to speak with more authority will
answer these questions, and we shall expect to find some
interesting points opened up. We may remark, however,
that the letter comes from some hundreds of miles off,
which may render the possibility of the unfamiliarity of
the writers with this, our trade Institution.

J. F. T. — The directory most suitable for you would be
that published by the Jewelers' Weekly, 41 and 43, Maiden
Lane, New York. The price is 12s. 6d. It appears a com-
plete, well got-up, plain, and easily useable directory of the
U.S. All the trades are classified, and each State treated
separately. We consider this marvellous value for the
money.

An inquirer asks " What constitutes a Watchmaker and
Jeweler ? " We should say making watches and jewelry.
If he means what are the circumstances under which he
may expect trade terms, we should say, the being engaged
in the sale of watches or jewelry as at least part of the
means of making a living, under a Government licence for
the same.

w«

^atcl^akcr, ^cWclcr

^ilVcrsix^itl^.

Entered at Stationers' Hall.]

Edited by W. J. LEWIS ABBOTT, F.G.S.

{Registered for Transmission Abroad.

Vol. XVII.— No. 10.]

APRIL 1, 1892.

[Subscriptior, 5s. per Annum. Post Free.
L tingle Copies, 6d. ; 7jd. by Post.

PUBLISHED ON THE 1st OF EACH MONTH

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SUBSCRIPTIONS.— The Annual Subscription throughout the
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advance. Single current Numbers are charged at 6d. each, 7}d.
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ADVERTISEMENTS.— There is a fixed printed tariff for
trade advertisements, which will be forwarded on application. All
prepaid situation and similar advertisements are inserted at 6d. per
line (minimum Is.; Name and Address in the Buyers' Guide, One
Guinea per annum, payable in advance.

LITERARY CONTRIBUTIONS. -Manuscripts should be
written clearly on one side of the paper only, and should in every case
be accompanied by the name and address of the sender ; where
payment is expected, a definite statement to that effect should be
made. The Editor cannot be responsible for missing MSS., but every
care will be taken of copy submitted for consideration.

iJfte ©"yVorfc)'^ QgpoAition.

^0 exhibit or not to exhibit ? That's the ques-
tion. Whether 'tis better to bear the evils
of an unfully- developed business, or rush
with the prodigies of our brain, and spread
them before our somewhat alienated
cousins, who will possibly adversely
criticise them, probably copy them, but
certainly in return will close their markets
against them, by the imposition of an annihilating import-
duty of 50 or 60 per cent. But while we are deliberating
we are struck with the phenomenal activity displayed on
all sides, from frozen Siberia to tropical Africa, from East
to West, and from North to South, big States, little States
— in fact every state in which man finds himself to-day,
"civilised" or "uncivilised," is thinking about this
wonderful Exposition. Ministers and trade chambers are
impressing upon the Governments the necessity of being
creditably represented before this grand jury of a hundred
nations ; and Governments and powers that be are just as
readily coming forward with their millions, so determined
are each that they shall be well represented. Obviously,
then, there is a subjective aspect of this question which
thinking people consider very important. If there were
only the one nation upon whose soil the exhibit is made to be
considered, the opening argument might perhaps be adduced,
but such is not the case. Every country in the world
will be present and sit in judgment upon what is shown,
and if in a court of law which — ostensibly at all events —
professes to be guided by justice and equity the verdict
depends more upon how the case is brought into court
and represented, than upon the innocence or guilt of the
defendant, how much more in a case like this, where there
is no appeal — save to the passing fancy of those who
saunter disinterestedly through the exhibits, looking for
what will please them best — is it an absolute necessity to be
faithfully represented, and so prevent a redistribution of
seats through non-appearance ? But let us first take the
case of America : there can be no denying that in many
quarters our trade with the States has been crippled by
MacKinleyism. These tariffs, however, are quite as likely

1!)0

THE WATCHMAKER, JEWELER AND SILVERSMITH.

Aiuul 1, 18D2.

to be set back again as not, in view of which it is necessary
that we should maintain our prestige with our cousins, so
that when their paternal government allows them to buy
the best goods in the best markets, they will have a stock of
names, familiar in their mouths as household words, of
manufacturers and dealers, by whom all their wants can be
supplied.

Next let us take the copying idea. Who is the real

"copier"? Truly "a man's foes are those of his own

house," the plagiarist who is to be abhorred is to be found

at home— he who gets one of your productions and makes

it up in an inferior style, takes it to the house you are

supplying, and perhaps have been supplying for many

years, and shows them how much cheaper he can do things

than you. If American houses want to copy, they need

not go to the Exhibition to get British patterns. For

many years most of the large houses pay at least yearly

visits to our Metropolis, when they can easily procure any-

thing that meets their fancy. Then again, most of the large

houses do more or less business with America. We were

surprised the other day to find the extent of trade we do

with America. Several American houses wrote us for the

addresses of houses in this country who deal in certain

things. Upon speaking to several of our manufacturers we

were astonished to hear them enumerate the number of

American firms with which they do business. Then again,

how many British firms now have establishments in the

United States ? Indeed, "London, 'Paris, andNew York" is

gradually becoming considered to be the correct and almost

indispensable heading to a bill ; and further, with America,

they have confidence in that guarantee of superiority

of British quality — the Hall Mark. We have sold some

tens of thousands of pounds' worth of English productions,

but we never saw an American yet who was not content in

accepting the Government guarantee ; the more so as

instances are by no means few and far between — if papers

are to be relied upon — when ten, eight, and even six carat

goods are stamped "14 K," which, of course, while it

asserts nothing, leads people to suppose the articles to be

14 -carat gold. Under these circumstances it is only

natural that they should have a good opinion of Uncle

John's gold and silver productions, an opinion which

deserves the strain of every effort to foster and cultivate,

and as such we hope our large manufacturers and large

retail houses will see their way clear to make a truly

representative show, creditable alike to themselves, the

trade they represent, and Britannia — the mother of us all —

and show that she not only rules the waves, but that she

rides triumphant over the world in arts and manufactures.

More ©iamonsU) in tf\e
Meteorite.

<J\ri

zona

Lectures on Gemmology. — On Tuesday evening, April
5th, at eight o'clock, the Editor will deliver a lecture on
the Color of Gems, at the Horological Institute, North-
ampton Square. It will be illustrated by oxy-hydrogen
limelight, and will cover a large field gone over in the
course of lectures delivered. We shall have a few tickets,
which can be had either by application at our offices, or to
Mr. Abbott, Seale House, The Vine, Sevenoaks, Kent.
There will also be a demonstration at the Museum of
Practical Geology, Jermyn Street, on Monday evening,
April 11th, at eight p.m. (by kind permission of Professor
Rudler), and another at the Natural History Museum,
South Kensington (Mineral Department), on Saturday
afternoon, April 23rd, at three o'clock. There will be no
tickets necessary for the demonstrations.

§OME time ago we gave an account of the discovery of
diamonds in meteoric iron from near Canon Diablo,
Arizona. Encouraged by this accidental discovery,
Professor Foote has made over two hundred sections
of this valuable relic of other worlds, with an enthusiasm
against which that exhibited by a gold-seeker would usually
pale, for it must be remembered that many of the masses
have a commercial value of three figures before they are
operated upon. To destroy them means playing with a
fortune. Nevertheless the work of slitting and polishing has
gone on month after month, and at the end of February last
the Professor was rewarded by a grand treasure of the same
nature as the one to which we have alluded. The specimen
now before us is about three inches long and a little over an
inch wide ; the surface of the iron is bright, but here and
there there are streaky black patches, cavities filled with a
black material. As the light falls upon one of these black
areas one recognises numerous small but quite familiar
faces. Passing the finger over their summits they stand
up like some varieties of shagreen ; but there they are —
anyone who has ever seen rough diamonds would recognise
them in a moment. Of course they are not cutable,
although large enough to identify with the naked eye ;
nor are they gems of the first water, but what would more
likely be classed as boart. They have a gray, wrinkled,
somewhat mammallary surface, so often to be seen in
diamonds, especially where crystalline faces are absent,
and the rough surface is the result of stragglings between
two or more forms of crystallization. But for all that there
is that adamantine sheen from the rugosities of the surface,
an ornamentation donned only by the king of gems.
Turning to their physical properties, anyone can see a
demonstration of their hardness by a visit to the British
Museum, for upon showing them to Mr. Fletcher (the hero
of a similar and perhaps greater discovery) he immedi-
ately tried one of them upon the piece of hard crystalline
corundum, shown on the north side of the gallery as a
specimen of hardness (number 9), and upon this it made
a deep cut in an instant. We were extremely pleased to
see it do this, as we felt it would be a proof positive, to all
who cared to visit the Museum, of the indubitable hardness
of the newly-discovered diamonds. And although they
may not see the original, to see this proof of its capabilities
may be convincing.

We observe in an esteemed American contem-
wiiat is porary the discovery of " a genuine opal mine,"

Mine'" but uPon reading the account it turns out that
in the " gravel " which is used for road metal,
eight opals have been found after a prolonged and diligent
search ; and the opal mine exists in the form of a prophecy
of the discovery of a vein or ledge running through the
gravel. Now when we see the "gravel" is sold at fifty
cents a cubic yard, in all probability it is a true gravel, i.e.,
a deposit of more or less water-worn stones, and sand,
brought into its present position by a river. If such is the
case, then the "genuine opal mine" in the form of "a
vein of the precious gems " had better be sought for in the
moon.

We have been asked if we can disestablish the claim of
the Montana beds to be called mines, seeing by whom they
are put forward, and if we are justified in likening them to
the gravel deposits of the Thames. In reply to this we
can say that we could even go further, and correlate the
former even homotaxily with the latter, seeing they both
contain tusks of the mammoth, and other mammalia
characteristic of the period.

April 1, 1892.1

THE WATCHMAKER, JEWELER AND SILVERSMITH.

191

(fotes /I bout Jou/o.

It is always difficult to produce a formula
'of<TSati,e which shall correctly state all facts, as there

are usually some varying elements that enter
at some corner or other. We cannot, however, help
thinking that the present state of trade is suffering from a
quiet proportional to its subsistence upon Royal patronage.
The stagnation of everything in the Court from the death
of the Duke of Clarence was not over when it was again
plunged into mourning by the death of the Duke of Hesse.
We hear from those houses who have the pleasure of play-
ing with these four-figure lines that trade is simply para-
lysed. It is very little better by those who depend upon
the tip-top stratum, whose sympathy or custom prompts
them to play follow-my-leader. Those houses who do business
with the upper and upper-middle classes have less food for
complaint, and one usually hears — " suppose we must not
grumble."

* # #

With the approach of Spring ladies, while
irc^cki^cs retammg the high collar of the Virgin Queen,
' are opening the top of the neck again in fur-
therance of the same fashion, and in continuance of it have
once more become patrons of the necklaces of this period.
These are composed of innumerable festoons of small
chains (such as we have been using for eye-glasses), looped
up into various patterns, crossing and re-crossing. There
are now quite a number of these selling ; and various
patterns are shown in this month's article on window
dressing.

% * #

With the adoption of this fashion, which
r'^iir' appears highly probable, a new field opens, in
opens, which some of the finest artistic productions
will find scope, subject as they are to boundless
variety, grace, beauty, and elegance. The connecting pil-
lars mil lend themselves to an infinity of treatment ; there
opens out an opportunity for some fine pieces of chasing,
such as has not been presented for a long time. Enamels,
too, and gems artistically arranged, will also find a place
here. The clever color-enamel productions of Messrs.
Eady, Paris, and Eady, for some unaccountable reason
restricted to a certain number of the best houses, will
doubtless serve as eye-openers to those suffering from
ennui.

* # • *

New bracelets en suite with the above are also
Bracelet* appearing with elaborate clasps, and divided
by one, two, and three pillars, all of which
offer a wide scope for design and treatment. Although
oval link chain, with links about a tenth of an inch long,
is usually employed, other patterns would form a pleasing
variety ; they are always slightly graduated in length
towards one side, so as to hang in small, graceful festoons.
* # *

Kew Ladies' alberts are also being produced in the
"aueen's" new " Stuart " patterns, which lend themselves
aAibert«e.r to 1uite as much, or even more, variety of
treatment than the foregoing. This introduc-
tion of an unmistakable entirely new style is just what was
required. It is quite possible it will produce a turning
point, which, however, we think will be proportional to the
energy displayed by the trade.

* * #

Ajioxgst the various novelties that have been
isoveiVi""! k^gkt out in aluminum perhaps none has
' had a more pleasing effect than the new
damask patterns, which so eminently agree with the sur-
face lustre and hue of this little- understood metal. There
are now to be found some of the most pleasing ash-trays

and such like things for a few shillings apiece that have
ever been produced, and are selling well.

* * *

A walk through the galleries of the large firms

surer "* in the silver colony, such as Messrs. Walker

Mouses are and Hall on the Viaduct, Messrs. Silray, Hall,

and Co., and several others in Ely Place, and
all down Charterhouse Street, show that they are fully
prepared for spring trade. Nor would those in " the
Garden ' ' like to be considered behind them in any way
while a few hundred yards further east we have the immense
factories of Messrs. Holland, Aldwinckle, and Slater, and
Messrs. Barnard. In walking through these galleries,
which we have been accustomed to perambulate " from
our youth up," one cannot help being struck with the
different lines upon which they have all developed, and, of
course, the different class of goods in the same sterling-
metal ; each has seemed to make a speciality. What an
artistic and intellectual treat it is to be allowed to go
through the cabinets of sketches of magnificent master-
pieces, still retained in the possession of Messrs. Holland,
Aldwinckle, and Slater; the countless castings, pictures,
in metal of every action almost that has taken place under
the sun, and above it, too, for the matter of that. With
these artistic mosaics no emergency could arise for a trophy
or presentation piece which could not be met in the shortest
possible time at the minimum cost. At the present
moment there are before us five letters from various parts
of the country asking us to recommend firms to execute
special orders, the lowest of which is £50. We take this
opportunity of assuring the retail trade that we are always
willing to give them the best advice in our power. We
might also remark that we have several letters again this
month from abroad, asking for the addresses of good silver
novelty houses, which we should be pleased to forward to
any manufacturer.

In the galleries of Messrs. Horace Woodward
Worcester an<^ ^°-' Holborn Viaduct, can be seen, with-
' without exception, what we consider some of
the most beautiful productions in Worcester and matt gilt
we remember seeing. The gilt of the china so matches with
that of the mount that one hardly knows which is china
and which is metal. But after all, it is the harmonious
blendings of tone and hues that give them such a charm,
in addition to the novelties and grace in shapes and uses.
A new celery dish, so long wanted, has been brought out in
this ware, together with several other novelties. The gilt-
work in patterns, which one would call "wrought iron,"
are very graceful and elegant. They have also on view
some new pattern gilt bowls, some of the finest specimens
of chasing one can often see, running from, say, ten to fifty
ounces.

W T? w

On Friday, the 4th ult., at Messrs. Christie's,
a xiii. there was sold probably the oldest piece of
Cjpic"ef plate ever brought into the market. It is a
most beautiful chalice, silver-gilt, " of unques-
tionable genuineness," weighing 46 ozs. It, however, only

brought 710 guineas.

* # #

After all, the most remarkable sale perhaps
ever held is that of the Wertheimer collection,
*TreaMiVesCr at which there was scarcely a single descrip-
tion of article of virtu that was not represented,
the prices frequently running into a good sized fourth
figure. The pictures, as might be supposed, brought the
highest figures. But the articles in ornamental stones,
such as lapis quartz, and malachite, were to our thinking
amongst the most interesting. There was also some
extremely interesting enamels. Some of the agate caskets
and boxes brought good prices. So, also, did numerous
fine old bronzes.

192

THE WATCHMAKER, JEWELER AND SILVERSMITH.

[April 1, 1892.

Recently a charming collection of articles
some of virtu have been dispersed, including some
"e«"u.'t mie °kl historic gems. This was by order
of the executors of a Miss K. S. Forbes,
of Wimbledon, who claimed to be a lineal descendant of
James II. Two pearl necklaces realised £5,000 and £4,600
respectively, a diamond necklet £1,700, and three drop-
pearls £550. This, with the prices realised by other gems
and a host of magnificent snuff-boxes, totalled up five
figures for the first day, the sale extending over five days.

# * *

Readers and all who have a spark of interest

The in the trade will be pleased to hear that our

Exhibition wortny defender of the rights of the British

watch trade, Mr. Julien Tripplin, has been
appointed to act on the committee of the horological
department at the foi^hcoming Chicago Exhibition. The
preparations which all over the world are being made to be
fully represented, read more like an " Arabian Nights "
tale, than a stern reality. Applications for space and in-
formation can now be made to Mr. Tripplin, 31, Holborn
Viaduct, who will be pleased to furnish all particulars.

* # *

„ , From March 1st to 3rd at Dowell's Rooms,

Remark- , . '

able Prices George Street, .hdinburgn, a three days auction
Ism*'-? sa^e °f °ld family silver and silver-gilt plate
was conducted. The collection includes the
larger portion of the service which belonged to the late
Lord Justice-General Inglis, as well as the service from
St. Martin's Abbey, Perthshire, and a service sent
forward by the trustees of the Earl of Dunmore. There
was a crowed attendance of buyers from London and all
parts of the country, and the competition was very keen.
Some of the prices realised were extraordinary, and on the
first day one at least probably beat the Northern record.
This was the figure of £13 per oz. given for an Early
Italian double-headed silver cup and cover in the form of a
chalice. The article weighed 7 oz. lOdwts. The highest
price hitherto recorded for silver plate being £10 per oz.
The cup was the property of the late Lord Justice-General
Inglis. Amongst other prices realised in the disposal of the
late Lord Justice-General's collection were — £4 5s. per oz.
for two chased taper stands with hexagonal bases and
pillars, of date 1719 ; £6 15s. per oz. for two signet-
handled fruit spoons, with gilt bowls, of date 1741 ; £9
per oz. for a dozen of agate-handled ice spoons, and £6
per oz. for an antique German bethrothal spoon, rat-
tailed, of date 1697. These prices, however, were even
exceeded on subsequent days, when as much as 18| guineas
per oz. was realised for two old " wager cups " weighing

21 ozs.

% * *

Recent Consular reports from Italy and Japan
lose'Vur have referred to the loss of trade owing to firms
^TVa'ae" m England sending to those countries circulars
and price lists based on the English weights
and measures. The metric system is used in those countries,
and our French, German, and other competitors use it in
their quotations, but the English firms in question are con-
tent to puzzle buyers with weights and measures which are
very troublesome and not understood. A similar complaint
now reaches us from Egypt in a Consular report just issued,
which points out that our weights and measures are
" utterly unintelligible " to a large proportion of the per-
sons to whom export houses in this country forward their
circulars and price lists in Alexandria and Cairo. The
metric system of weights and measures is in force in Egypt,
and exporters of English goods to that country should
adopt it in their quotations and transactions with countries
where it is employed. Let us hope we shall soon have this
commercial bugbear, this disgrace to civilization removed ;
so that even in our own little isle we can understand the
quantity of any article for which we have to pay.

Biryryi^am jfot^.

(By our own Correspondent.)*

}T is with !
to write
I have

somewhat of regret that I take the pen in hand
rite my usual notes this month, for, unfortunately,
ve but little of an encouraging nature to
chronicle. My hopeful anticipations of a month ago
have not been quite so satisfactorily fulfilled as I should
have liked. Still I cannot help but feel thankful that,
considering the exceptional circumstances of the month,
things have not been worse even than they have been.
The extension of the time of Court mourning on account
of the death of the Duke of Hesse has tended to prevent
the favorable re-action I had hoped for, while the coal
strike and its consequent effects on trade generally has
crippled what little enterprise the Birmingham jewelers
might otherwise have displayed. Here again, however,
there is room for thankfulness, as had the strike been of
longer duration the effects would have been nothing short
of ruinous. The varied manufactures of Birmingham are
so completely dependent on the coal supply, that one
trembles to think what might have been had this supply
been permanently reduced. I refer at length to this matter
as it sufficiently explains why the jewelry trade has been
unduly quiet, and in seeing the depths we have escaped,
we are less likely to get despondent over what we have
suffered.

W S to April, we cannot reasonably expect much. The
3|^ majority of our wholesale men are just finishing up
HI: their journeys, and nearly all the travellers will be
home for the Easter Holidays. By the time these
are over, the month will be too far gone to do much good,
and we can only advise our friends and fellow -workers to
rest on their oars for a while, and wait patiently for the
merry month of May. Of course, there is the after-Easter
buying on the part of the factors, to which the manu-
acturers may look forward, and doubtless several nice little
parcels of goods will change hands. But the experience of
the last few years is that there is not much reliance to be
placed on this periodical buying, so I would warn our ex-
pectant makers not to expect too much.

fHE operative jewelers of this city take great interest
in football matters, and the final match played in
London on the 19th ult. was Avitnessed by many of
them, who journeyed there by day trip to see the play.
The unexpected defeat of their favorite and local team,
the " Aston Villa," has formed the chief subject of conver-
sation in our various workshops since the event. I might
add that some of the " master men " also are affected with
the same enthusiasm, and for a few days this topic eclipsed
even the universal " bad trade " theme.

^I>ET another lecture by a local jeweler — again at the
IP New Church Guild. On March 15th, Mr. F. Saxelby
a? was lecturing on "Glimpses of Elizabethan London,"
illustrated with limelight views of the places de-
scribed. Mr. Saxelby is an excellent Shakespearean scholar,
and was thus enabled to throw a realistic light on the
scenes and places in London during the time of Elizabeth.

the death of Mr. Britton, late head of the firm of
" B. H. Britton and Son," of Vyse Street, Birming-
ham, another link binding the trade of to-day with
the past has been severed. This firm has held a
prominent place in the trade here for many years.

* We must not be understood as endorsing all, or necessarily any, of the opinions
of our correspondent, who writes on his own responsibility.

April 1, 1892.]

THE WATCHMAKEK, JEWELER AND SILVERSMITH.

193

II? S usual in bad times the financially- weak members of
3j^l the trade are being forced to the wall. Unfortu-
jPL nately, in their downfall the stronger ones suffer,
more or less. During the last month there have
been two stoppages largely affecting the Birmingham
wholesale trade, one being a London firm of factors who
have called their creditors together, and the other a Glasgow
man, who has had to ask for an extension of time. In
this latter case a promise of twenty shillings in the £ is
made, and, judging from the balance sheet submitted, there
is every likelihood of its being redeemed. I have not yet
heard what the former people propose doing, although
there is a rumor of ten shillings in the £ .

JAM inclined to think that in many cases these sudden
collapses which occur regularly with every recurring
period of depression, are due to the arbitrary action
of the various banks. It is too much a custom with
them to give any amount of support to their clients when
trade is busy and prospects good, but upon any indication
of a spell of bad trade this support is suddenly withdrawn
just when it is most needed. This of necessity precipitates
that very crash, which presumably both supporter and
supported are alike anxious to avoid. This conduct is ex-
tremely unfair, as the ready " needful " in times of pros-
perity induces the trader to branch out more widely than
he intended, he depending, of course, on a continuance of
the accommodation to meet his liabilities later on. When,
however, he finds the supply stopped there is no possible
help for him but to stop also, to his own ruin and his
customers' loss. I have noticed this sort of thing occur
repeatedly in my study of the varying aspects of our trade
systems.

TN reference to the Annual Dinner of the Jewelers'
llf Association held at the Great Western Hotel, on the
<JL 19th, I am sorry that my anticipation of last month
has not been realised. In fact, I cannot congratulate
the Birmingham Jewelers on a successful evening. The
spread was not first rate, especially considering the high
price of the tickets ; while the speech of the evening by Mr.
Chamberlain, which I looked forward to with great in-
terest, did not contain a single allusion of special interest
to the jewelry trade. A few straightforward sentences on
the Bankruptcy Laws or the currency would have been
worth more than all the bombastic references to the House
of Lords. However, the opportunity is now gone, and we
must wait another twelve months before it comes again.
The other speeches of the evening were of but mediocre
quality, and contained nothing to which I need call
attention here.

f^HE exhibition of the work of the students of our
f Municipal School of Art has been held lately. There
? are some very good works shown — many of the
designs being really good and effective. Also some
of the metal work — brass and copper — indicates both
ability of design and force of execution. There is but
little toucbing the jewelry trade, however ; a colored
design for a mayoral chain being the only noteworthy
thing.

BUR eminent medallist, Mr. Joseph Moore, whose re-
nown is not merely local but world-wide, has lately
passed his seventy-fifth birthday. He bears his age
well, and is still hale and strong, and gives evidence
of many years' work yet to be done. His eyesight is won-
derfully good, and he can still do the finest work without
glasses. To use his own expression, he "began to work
before he had learned to play," and has been at it ever
since,

Jjg SOMEWHAT new development of trade for Bir-
3tm mingham is found in the watch-case manufacturing.
ML A "Limited" in this line has just been started
here. I see no reason why it should not do well, as
this is a branch of manufacture eminently fitted to flourish
in our district.

yilAMONDS are being offered here just now at much
"Ml l°we}' figures than lately. I do not quite know if
J£f this is the result of a general lowering of the market,
or whether it is simply due to individual dealers
being forced to realise ; but I rather think that both these
reasons are operating. At any rate, I know that several
good parcels have recently changed hands at very low
prices. There is always a rush upon Birmingham by the
brokers when the London market is quiet.

XT is somewhat remarkable that the value of silver just
flf now has reached a lower level than was touched even
JL by the violent fluctuations of 1890. So far as my
knowledge goes, three shillings and fivepence per
ounce is the lowest quotation ever given for silver. The
question that is agitating the minds of the Birmingham
manufacturers is, whether it is worth while stocking a large
quantity while the price is thus low, or whether this is
likely to be a permanent reduction of value. Unfortunately
I am quite unable to give a reliable answer to this query.

IpVHE number of patent solitaires and sleeve-links is
'! ■ becoming extremely embarrassing to both the whole-
sale houses and the shopkeeper. Almost every day
something new in these lines is appearing, and one
would think that every conceivable idea for fastening has at
last been used up. For the most part, however, these
patents apply only to the commoner qualities of goods, and
they do not sell to any extent in the better quality of gold
work.

§OME little effort was made early in the year by the
Technical School Committee to induce some of the
younger adult workmen of the trade to take advantage
of the instruction there given. I am sorry to say
that this effort has met with but scant success, one or two
only having availed themselves of the opportunity. Nor do
I anticipate that much good will be done in this direction.
The adult working jeweler as I know him thinks he is far
too clever and well-informed to need any such instruction.
He has learned his trade, and there is an end of the matter.
Still, it may be well thus to note that the classes are open
for adults, if they choose to go.

fHE export trade has been rather busier during March,
several large orders having been received here from
the London shippers. A buyer for the Cape has
also picked out a little stuff from the manufacturers'
stocks. As the conditions of life in South Africa gradually
right themselves, I anticipate it will form a splendid market
for our local trade. During the " boom" at Johannesburg
some years ago a vast amount of business was done there,
although unfortunately some of the goods were never paid
for. Still, it will be well to keep an eye upon the country
in its development, so as to be ready at once with what-
ever it may require. Unless we do so other nations will
take precedence in the matter of trade. " Our Letter from
the Diamond Fields," which appears in our columns month
by month, should be of great use to our friends in this
direction.

-It-

Burglary Insurance. — The committee of Lloyds have
issued an important circular, from which we gather that
in future they will only take the risk of goods in transit.

We regret the continuation of the excellent lectui'e of Mr. Tonks
is unavoidably left over till next month.

104

THE WATCHMAKER, JEWELER AND SILVERSMITH.

[April 1, 1892.

Sheffield Jfotes.

(By our own Correspondent.)*

G7HORTLY attlH' writing the paragraph relating to
^ Henry Wilkinson \ Co. in last month's " Notes,"
the report was brought to me that the liquidators,
Messrs. Barber, Bros., and Wortley, had succeeded in dis-
posing of the business to Messrs. Walker and Hall, and
that a cheque on account for £1,000 had been paid in
respect to the transaction. Whatever there is of good
remaining in the old concern will therefore be utilised to
the fullest extent, for no one can accuse the firm of Walker
and Hall of being deficient in business "push." Not the
least valuable part of the purchase will be the large stock
of dies included in it, the business of Henry Wilkinson
and Co. having for many years been conducted on high
art principles.

(7T S to the comparison between the state of the electro-
/si. plate trade now and two years ago, there is not
much conflict of testimony. The verdict must be
that it is not as good now as it was then. Wrhen, however,
one begins to inquire more closely as to the volume of
trade being done now, the testimony of no two manufac-
turers seems to agree. It is easy to see that this is not so
much owing to any difference in respective cases, as from
the variety of temperaments. Putting this and that
together, one is forced to the conclusion that, notwith-
standing the numerous complaints one hears, there is yet
a fair amount of business doing. One thing pointing in
this direction is the fact that among artisans in the silver
and electro-plate trade, there are at present very few
unemployed. This is a pleasing contrast to the state of
affairs a little over three years ago.

TRANSACTION of considerable interest and import-
ance to the manufacturing and general community
has just been completed by the amalgamation of the
two rival telephone companies, whose competition has
hitherto resulted in Sheffield possessing the cheapest
telephonic service of any town in the country. As far
as the National Company is concerned, the rates were
admittedly unremunerative. The local company, which has
always kept the lead, was able to command much higher
rates. Some months ago overtures were made to the
Sheffield Telephone Exchange and Electric Light Company,
Limited, by a new company in course of formation in
London, who also put themselves in communication with
the Mutual Telephone Company in Manchester. The fact
that negotiations were being carried on evidently leaked
out, for the National Telephone Company, naturally
alarmed at the prospect of this powerful combination,
came forward with an offer which the directors of the
Sheffield Telephone Exchange Company deemed it advisable
to accept. Whether the new departure will be to the
advantage of the general public is another question. In
the peculiar circumstances of the Sheffield trades, and
especially the electro-plade trade, the telephone has come
to be an absolute necessity. As far as the large works are
concerned the raising of the rates will not be a very serious
matter, but with the small people, out-workers and the
like, with whom they have to be in continual communication,
the case is quite different. It remains to be seen whether
the National Telephone Company will work their monopoly
with that moderation which in their case will be the
highest wisdom.

• We must not be understood as endorsing all. or necessarily any, of the views of
our correspondent, who writes on his own responsibility.

N connection with the numerous rifle shooting contests
of the West Riding the name of the Bingham Challenge
Shield is continually cropping up. This fine trophy, as its
name indicates, is the gift of Lieutenant-Colonel Bingham,
the energetic head of the firm of Walker and Hall. It
consists of a circular shield mounted on a frame covered
with maroon velvet. There are three outer circles forming
a wide border, leaving the body of the shield free for what
may be called the primary illustration or chief design.
The outer rim consists of a richly-chased laurel wreath in
oxydised silver. The second, which is two inches in width,
is ornamented with beautiful scroll work in silver-gilt on
a dead silver ground, and also with the floral emblems of
the United Kingdom. In this circle there are four modelled
bolts by which the shield is fastened to its frame, enamelled
in colors, and bearing the corporate arms of the four
chief Yorkshire towns — York, Sheffield, Leeds, and Brad-
ford. The third circle, which is perhaps the most beauti-
ful, consists of a number of heraldic shields linked
together by ornamental gilt studs. Each alternate shield
is of dead silver finely enamelled in colors, with the arms
of each of the regiments in Yorkshire, the circle containing
the whole regimental arms. Between each of these
enamelled shields is a plain shield ready to be inscribed as
occasion requires, with the names of the regiments which
prove successful in the competition. The centre of the
Challenge Shield is occupied with a large and beautifully
modelled lion's head in oxydised silver, around which is a
circular scroll bearing the words " The Bingham Challenge
Shield." The body of the shield consists of four oval-
shaped pictures, illustrating the principal arms of the
Service, the engraving of which is perhaps the least satis-
factory part of the work. The shield is six feet ten inches
in circumference, and has, as it lies at present in the
window of the " Sheffield Daily Telegraph " office, a really
fine appearance.

TT7ROPHIES of ivory tusks are becoming quite a feature
41.® in Silversmith's showrooms. The three noble tusks
which grace the staircase of Messrs. Rodgers and
Son's premises in Norfolk Street constitute a fine illustra-
tion of this luxurious custom. The one which has been
there longest is 9 feet long and 21 inches in girth, and
was sufficiently attractive to excite the cupidity of the
Shah of Per&ia on his visit to Sheffield. Next comes a
recent arrival from the Congo, a very perfect tusk, 8 feet
8 inches in length ; 21 inches in girth ; weight 160 lbs. ;
and value £150. The hollow end of this tusk is only
2 feet 6 inches in depth, leaving a length of 6 feet 2 inches
of absolutely solid ivory. Between the two is a West
African, distinguished by its ebony-lined surface. It is the
longest of all, standing 9 feet 3 inches ; its girth is 20
inches ; its weight 130 lbs. ; and its value £120.

'R. JOHN GALLIMORE, of Matilda Street, who
bought the business of the late Mr. J. A. Rhodes,
tells me that the beautiful speciality of hollow-ware
overlaid with saw-piercing is practically defunct. That
the public taste runs that way may be regretted, but, of
course, cannot be helped. It is, however, reviving in a
modified form in America. No manufacturer who wishes to
keep his doors open will ever attempt to run counter to
popular tendencies. Mr. Gallimore, therefore, bowing to the
inevitable, has turned his attention towards the production,
in the very best style, of what the public really wants. The
success which has attended his efforts is evidenced by the
general air of prosperity which pervades the works, a
cursory visit to which I recently had occasion to make. I
hope in the near future to have the opportunity of going
through them more in detail.

Coventry Houses are fairly busy — in fact, the large ones
very so ; some of the smaller ones are grumbling.

April 1, 1892.]

THE WATCHMAKEE, JEWELER AND SILVERSMITH.

195

iome Reoo (§Jenr}A.

MICROLITE.
lfrMONGST the various productions of the mineral
^p world lately brought into this country by Professor
JMt Foote, there are several of special importance to
those who take an interest in gems. Not that they
are now made known for the first time to the scientific
world, but they are new to the generality of the public.
One of the most interesting gems is microlite which
until recently has only been found in tiny crystals as implied
by its name. But specimens of this gem of over half
an inch in diameter are now before us. With this material
in hand we are able to give further particulars of this
beautiful addition to our gems. The color suite is from
brown — and sage-green through yellows to full orange,
almost red. It crystallises in the isometric system, and puts
on probably a greater number of faces than any other gem.
It is generally elongated along one axis. It often some-
what resembles some garnets, but is never so simple in its
habits. The rhombic - dodecahedral faces are usually
largely developed compared with the others present, which
include cubicoctahedral and deltohedral, in addition to
hemihedral faces. A lovely twin is now before us, which
gives rise to a six-sided very low double pyramid finely
striated from edge to edge, otherwise very much resembling
some alexandrites for which it would doubtless be mistaken.
It is, however, far brighter than the alexandrite, being
almost adamantine. As it nestles in a group of crystals of
the purest white mineral known — albite — it appears an
unmistakable gem. When cut its beauties are ever far
more obtrusive, its brightness and dispersion calling to
mind the sphene. It is a great pity that it is so rare, and
that nature only produces the gem in small quantities.
But a glance at its chemical composition will show that
it contains some of the rarest elements on our planet.
So that it is only under very exceptional circumstances in-
deed that its genesis is possible, containing as it does, no
less than six of the elements not found in any other gem.
Of these columbium or tantalum (or both combined) form
over 75 per cent., lime about 10-15 per cent., the rest
being made up of uranium, wolfram, yttrium, tin man-
ganese, lead, and iron, with a drop of water to wash the
lot down.

BERYLLONITE.
This gem is also extremely interesting from its chemical
composition, bridging over, so to speak, such gems as
beryls, chrysoberyls, euclase and phenacites into which
beryllium enters largely, on the one hand ; and the tur-
quoise on the other, where phosphorus plays the part
of acid. In appearance, however, it is most like the
phenacite being usually colorless, or, if one might use
such a term, white colorless, just as we call Jager's
diamonds blue-white, meaning a white or colorlessness,
with an intention of having the blues should it be obliged
to choose a color. It is true that occasionally one can
see in beryllonite a suspicion of yellow, or rose. It also
very much resembles white topaz in appearance, especially
as it has one highly perfect cleavage, but other cleavages
immediately appear which separate these two gems.
There is a somewhat curious sheen on many specimens,
to some faint extent recalling that upon albite. The
fracture, although at times a little hackly, is usually very
even and vitrious. The crystalline faces of those before
us (some thirty in number) are all somewhat rough, dull
and pitted, and apparently bear the impressions of the
matrix in which they were formed. There is also another
feature in which the gem resembles white topaz, and that
is, that owing to its perfect cleavage blows frequently
start an invisible crack, which from interference of light,
produce the lovely colors of the rainbow or Newton's

and **c^.
rich '
ted,

rings. We regret we have not seen an analysis of this
gem, but we make it out to be composed of sodium 18'53,
beryllium 7'37, phosphorus 24'33, oxygen 52-35.

SAPPHIRES AND RUBIES.
With all eyes directed upon America for unheard of
supplies of the monarch of the gems, American corundums
have an especial interest. Those, however, before us,
although the result of years of collecting from the various
and most important localities, would not excite an ordinary
jeweler very much ; indeed, they would be looked upon as
colored spar. The rubies rise gradually from the adaman-
tine-spar, from which they differ only in color and trans-
lucency. It is only in very small areas that they become
at all red. The blue sapphires, on the other hand, are
very much larger, occurring in crystals well-formed, of
large dimensions, measurable by inches. Their name is
justifiable by the assumption of the hue and the crystalline
form, otherwise, commercially, they would not be con-
sidered gems. They usually occur in metamorphic rocks in
which feldspar plays the most important part, accompanied
by various micas. The ruby is accompanied by a beautiful
green ripidolite. It is the destruction of rocks such as
this that supplies the water-Avorn pebbles of rubies and
sapphires that are found in the beds of various rivers, which
either do or did flow over the area in which they existed,
as in Montana and elsewhere.

CHRYSOBERYL.

The public will now be able to see in tfsr *NS1fionali * .
Collection specimens not only of the matrix of the "chrysb-
beryl, but a series of beautiful shapes and habits of crystalli-
sation assumed by this gem. Its curious twinings are
certainly most remarkable, as we pointed out when treat-
ing of this subject. It occurs associated with garnet, and a
variety of zinc-magnesian spinel gahnite, in a rock which
appears like a pegmatite, largely composed of feldspar, which
has been altered by pressure, and which, although quite
talcous in appearance, is nevertheless as rough as pumice.
We should not, however, like to pronounce definitely upon
the rock until we have made some microscopic sections of
it. It can, however, be affirmed that the chrysoberyl can
be looked upon in this instance as a rock-forming material,
a claim never before advanced for it.

TURQUOISE.

As there are several new finds of this important and
fashionable gem, anything about it becomes interesting.
Several protracted visits to New Mexico have resulted in
the collection of fine specimens of this gem. Usually the
matrix is more or less decomposed and difficult to deter-
mine, under which conditions the turquoise is of a green
color. But specimens now before us are bright and fresh,
the matrix is a clean light bright gray, carrying specks
of pyrites, and is in appearance very like many European
trachytes. Throughout this matrix, lining cracks and
fissures, and filling irregular cavities, the beautiful light
blue gem permeates in every direction. In one place there
has been a joint and a deposit of over an eighth of an inch
thick, and on the specimen one of nearly three inches long
has accumulated. But the most interesting point is that it
is uniform or even mammallary, a form in which turquoise
is very rarely seen, under which conditions it might readily
be mistaken for calamine. It is also a little softer and far
more brittle upon this part than in the interior of the matrix.
So greatly does this differ in appearance from what one
usually sees, that we should have doubted its claim to the
name of turquoise had not Professor Foote assured us that
he had had it analysed.

EVEN GEMS COME AND GO.

Impressed with some of the appearances of a decomposing
stone-wall and " such like things that perish,." we are apt
to consider that the gems know no change ; but we soon
find, however, that, like "the eternal hills," "they come

196

THE WATCHMAKER, JEWELER AND SILVERSMITH.

[April 1, 1805

and go and nothing stands," or, if possible, even worse,
they are essentially theosophists, or something infinitely
older — at any rate, they are firm believers in re-incarnation
— or one substance taking upon itself the body and outward
form of another. Such productions are known as pseudo-
morphs. Before us is a remarkable example of wha.t was
oner a beautiful tourmaline, probably of a lovely red inside
and green out, as these colors are still retained, but there
is nothing now left that can be called by that name. Its
hardness is all gone ; some half-a-dozen of its elements
have been replaced with further additions of silica and
alumina and water, with the result of producing a soft,
spangling, sheeny mineral known as damourite. The
specimen is from Maine.

(Ufte Montana ^u.€^ aniL
GDCtppftire Mine^>.

eUR respected contemporary The Mamtfacttiriw/ Jeweler,
R. I., publishes the following letters from Montana,
which will doubtless interest most of our readers.

THE NEW SAPPHIRE FIELDS.

No man these days who does not own a sapphire claim,
or at least an interest in one or more of the new wealth
producers, is considered at all in the swim in this section.
For the time all other kinds of mining has to take a back
seat, and if the craze to possess sapphire and diamond
mines continues much longer, the mountain sides will soon
be deserted, and the gulches and canons will be filled
with prospectors carrying pans and shovels. Almost every
person in Butte now carries a. few handfuls of precious
stones in his pockets and knows where he can go and get
wagon loads more. It is true that only a small propor-
tion of the stones have any value, because those of market-
able size devoid of flaws are extremely scarce, but this
does not take away any of the charm attendant upon being
the possessor of a few bushels of gems that " would be

worth more than gold, if ." Every day men leave the

city for some of the old worked-out placer gulches to
locate claims, and each one fondly imagines that he will
be lucky enough to stake ground that carries sapphires,
rubies, and diamonds enough to make him as rich as
Croesus was before the panic. The sapphire fever is not
confined in its ravages to the prospector alone, but, like
the grippe, is no respecter of persons and classes, and
affects all alike. The result is that merchants, mechanics,
miners, professional men, and representatives of every other
branch of business are interested.

The tales of future riches and wealth that some of them
indulge in are amusing and even pitiable. The jewelers
are the ones who so far have been the principal gainers,
and are doing a rushing business in forwarding stones to
lapidaries in the East to be cut and polished. Upon re-
turn of the stones the jewelers mount them, and that is
where their profits come in. Quite a number of the cut
stones have been mounted, and some of them are so pure
and faultless as to equal the finest diamonds, and it re-
quires the skill of an expert to detect the difference.

Al Johnson, who owns a placer claim near the Moulton
reservoh'j about five miles north-east of Walkerville, re-
cently exhibited a handful of uncut sapphires that he found
on bis ground. He also had a number of cut stones which
he said have been obtained from the same.lot, and had
been polished by Tiffany. The latter were unusually
brilliant and sparkled like diamonds. He said he had sold
a few at prices ranging from from 10 dols. to 25 dols. each,
and had several more at a jewelry store, where they were
being mounted. Mr. Johnson had been working his claim
during the last five or six years, but until recently paid no
attention to the hard, flinty, little pebbles which accumu-

lated in his sluice boxes and often caused him to lose con-
siderable dust, as the stones would settle in the riffles and
allow the gold to be washed into the tail race. Since he
has learned that the stones have a commercial value, he
has decided to save them, and hereafter will look for stones
as well as for gold. Besides the sapphires he has also
frequently found large quantities of a peculiar black mineral
broken up into pieces no larger than peas. Since learning
that the little stones were valuable he also took some of
the black stuff and gave it to an assayer, who pronounced
it to be stream or placer tin, and will test some of it to
ascertain its exact value. Several persons who have seen
the stream tin found in the Black Hills say that the samples
shown by Johnson are identical. Johnson says he has lots
of the stuff, and if such is the case his claim will be doubly
valuable. The sapphire group, a new diamond field, was
located about four and a half miles south of Silver Bow,
recently, by T. C. Flint, L. H. Convers, G. W. Chapman,
John Fogerty, George F. Peery, M. M. Miller, R. C. True,
and W. H. Palmer.

THE RUSH AT HELENA.

Helena, Mont., Feb. 17, 1892.
The rush to take up sapphire ground near Helena still
continues. Every day location notices are received at the
office of the County Clerk. Just what state the titles of
these various claims are in is hard to tell. Some have
been located probably two or three times. Not only is the
ground on both sides of the river taken up, but locations
are made of the riverbed and channel, so that no spot may
be overlooked in the region of country covering the won-
derful sapphire fields, called by some the New Golconda of
Montana. The river for miles up and down the sapphire
fields will be a lively place this spring and summer, and
will present a scene like that witnessed in the balmy days
of the famous Alder Gulch, which poured a mighty stream
of golden metal out into the world.

WHAT A HELENA MINER SAYS.

Seattle, Wash., Feb. 16, 1892.

F. W. Merrill, of Helena, who is interested in the sap-
phire fields of Montana, is stopping at the Northern Hotel.
" These sapphires are found within twelve miles of Helena,"
said he, last night. " Some are picked up from the bars
in the Missouri river, and others are taken by tunneling
into the banks and washing the dirt, just as is done for
placer mining. Both rubies and sapphires are found in the
same fields. Of the sapphires, not ten in every hundred
are fit for cutting. The rest have more or less flaws. The
good sapphires, when cut, are worth about 10 dols. a carat,
on the average, but I have not seen any Montana sapphires
weighing more than three carats."

Mr. Merrill showed specimens of the cut sapphires —
glittering blue-green gems, which are nearly as hard as
diamonds. The rough stones are a dull blue-green, and
translucent like bits of colored ground glass.

COMPANIES ARE FORMING.

Butte, Mont., Feb. 23, 1892.
Twenty more sapphire claims have been located, each
160 acres, representing 3,200 acres of placer ground, 17 of
the locations being south of Silver Bow junction and three
south-west ol Rocker. As soon as the snow is off the
ground the owners of the great diamond field will go to
work to demonstrate something. Some alleged precious
stones have already been picked up, and when people
examine them they generally look wise and say, " that's
the stuff."

ANOTHER SAPPHIRE SYNDICATE.

Butte, Mont., Feb. 24, 1892.

Twenty claims, containing 6,670 acres, is the property

along Silver Bow Creek, which the Silver Bow precious

stones syndicate owns, and as indicated by its name, the

company intends to work the ground for the sapphires,

April 1, 1892.]

THE WATCHMAKER, JEWELER AND SILVERSMITH.

197

rubies, and other precious stones it is supposed to contain.
Articles of incorporation are now being prepared, and as
soon as possible the syndicate will have a legal standing.
A prospectus has been issued by the syndicate, describing
the object of its existence and the formation and location

of the ground it controls.

-@s8*S-

Windows aqd Window Dressing.

By the Editor.

(Continued from page 177.)
N the present chapter we purpose to dress the
back of the window described on page 154
with all gold jewelry. Commencing with
the centre block, which is the most promi-
nent feature in the window, we allot it to
the now fashionable fine festoon "Stuart"
and similar necklaces. Where a member
slightly tapers upwards like this block, it is best to put the
heaviest necklace at the bottom, and graduate them
upwards. The block then looks as if it were made for the

the surface. These figures also give special facilities for
rendering any novelty prominent ; thus, the centre circle on
the right-hand side makes the novel enamel flowers so con-
spicious that no one could pass without seeing them, or
without noticing that they were very much to the front and
very fashionable. The centre of this circle is also a very
conspicious place, and ought to be reserved for something
good and effective. In this position we have placed a large
enamel heart's-ease ; radiating from it are small fichus,
while above and below are related in outline. On the left-
hand side we have adopted another style by way of variation,
and as adding another design . Here the main features are a
centre formed by four important brooches at intervals
corresponding to the respective diameters of the block.
This suggests an ellipse in which the brooches are then
stuck, leaving out those most suitable for the corners thus
left. Or the corners may be employed for something else
altogether, showing up greatly by the contrast with the
brooches, which occupy so marked a position — indeed, the
brooches themselves are rendered more perspicuous if
restricted to the central ellipse.

The tops of these three blocks are also very commanding
positions, and admirably suited for a number of articles.
The centre one can be used for a large cup, bowl, or trophy,
and the two side ones for similar objects of smaller dimen-

necklaces. Slightly curved surfaces are much the best for
these articles. They should always be separated by
regularly diminishing intervals, and the main sweeps
should always coincide. They should not be carried round
in hard stiff straight lines, but in graceful curves. The
spaces left at the top centre and the bottom sides can be
employed by bracelets (now coming in) of the same
character as the necklaces ; or a couple of ladies' fashion-
able watch-chains can be introduced into the last-named
position.

Turning next to the two ends, these should be stood flat
sides together upon the counter, and dressed at the same
time. The articles about to be displayed should be got
together in a tray first, and then a design aimed at. It is
not necessary that one should determine the position of
every piece before he begins to stick one — quite the
reverse — but both sides should follow each other ; an equal
number of important pieces should be employed in similar
positions in each, and the same design or main features
carried out as they are evolved. We may proceed, and by
mere passing experiment produce a charming effect, pro-
viding we follow the hints already thrown out. First-class
effect is produced and material economized by making a
visible ellipse, rhomb, or circle, or otherwise breaking up

sions, handsome pieces of silver-gilt, sugar and creams, a
card-tazza and a pair of graceful vases. An afternoon tea-
set, toilet-set or mirrors, or some pieces of fine art china
ware are all objects suitable for these positions.

We now come to the two flat-backed members. The front
edge of the bottom step forms a first-class position for gold
pencil-cases — a half-dozen at each side and the centre
employed by, say, compasses in two rows, as shown in the
above illustration. On the other corresponding position
to the compasses seals may be employed. Upon the step an
angular block at about 45° finds an appropriate place, fitted
to carry four solitaire suites, and on the corresponding
side link- suites find an equally good place. Each of the
suites can be separated by a gold pencil slipped in
between them. If the number required for this happens
to be as many as it is desirable to show, the other space
can be employed for ladies' alberts, festooned from hook
to hook. The back of these members forms excellent
places for bracelets. As we show in the illustration, the
bottom row on one side is occupied by plain porte-bonheur,
and the other of the corresponding side by square edge,
the rest of the rows are occupied by more or less fancy
patterns. And here perhaps a word may be profitable on
the arrangement of these. Always classify the rows, do not

198

THE WATCHMAKER, JEWELER AND SILVERSMITH.

[April 1, 1892.

put a thin one in a row of four, the other three of which
are large, or vice rasa. Put your largest ones in the three
rows, and your smaller on the four rows. If the stock
of bracelets varies very much in size, the distances between
the rows must be graduated, otherwise interspaces will
look very irregular.

We next come to the question of fixing the bracelets or
holding them in position, and for this purpose there are
numerous devices. A simple silk-covered fork with the

edges slightly upturned, as in
Fig. 8, is sometimes employed,
but this is open to great objec-
tions in practice. Thousands of
bracelets have been precipitated
upon the floor from these perches,
in journeys from the window to
the counter. A very great im-
provement is suggested in Fig. 9,
where the back is slightly gripped
by a spring from which the brace-
let can easily be released by the
pressure of the thumb-nail.
Another favorite plan is to fix
them with three pins as in Fig.
10, but this is open to great
objections as the cut pins in-
variably scratch the bracelet. Some firms always keep
the back of the bracelet wrapped in white tissue, but
unless this is kept perfectly clean and fresh it is very
objectionable. In placing the bracelet upon the pins
the back is laid upon the lower two pins, and when in
position the front allowed to turn over forwards and the
bracelet falls into position, in which it is just slightly
nipped by the three pins. Another plan is to replace the pins
by silk-covered pegs firmly fixed, and employ a small silk-
covered wedge to hold the bracelets in position.

In all these metfhods the backs remain interchangeable,
and can be dressed in one style this week and another the
next. All sorts of blocks could of course be made to rest upon
the back step, and the bracelets could be made to drop in,
or the backs themselves could be divided off into divisions
for various things, including rings. The step could be
broken into, say an inch-and-a-half at the first one,
forming a ledge along which could be placed small nick-
nacks, or ear-studs upon blocks, or anything of similar
dimensions. Two six-inch trays could follow carrying
studs and links, separated by a pilaster with rounded front,
which could be made to take studs, capped by a cup of
scarf-pins. Another step of about an inch-and-a-half
could follow, similar to the one below, and the back space
then be occupied by two ring trays. Thus broken up, the
window looks very interesting and attractive.
(To be continued.)

©ur l^effer £rom tfte ©iamoniL

(By Vaamte.)

Kimberley, Feb. 25.
NE important change has taken place here
since my last, which may be of interest to
your clock-making readers, and that is, we
now know the time. Up to February 8th,
time here in Kimberley was about half an
hour out with the Cape, but it has been
decided that all stations on the Cape Govern-
ment Railway shall be considered to be 22^° E. of Greenwich
in point of time. This will necessitate a putting back in some
instances, and forward in others ; but we have what I suppose
they call a scientific time, although, so far as I am concerned,

I don't care much whether the sun rises eight minutes earlier
now than it used to according to the almanac or not. Still,
the new arrangement will obviate a great deal of nuisance
and unnecessary annoyance. The next thing to knowing
what time the sun goes down, is knowing how to keep
warm when he has departed. Now, the question of fuel has
always been a very serious one out here and threatened to
handicap progress considerably, as coke is £14 per ton,
and all coal had to be brought for many hundreds of miles.
But the revelations of the Premier mine have impressed all
thoughtful men that nothing but a thorough and system-
atic prospecting the entire country could supply an answer
as to whether or not we are surrounded by immense
diamond or other mines. In past years a mere tickling, or
at most a surface-scratching, if not remunerative at once
Avas concluded to be sufficient evidence of the non-existence
of diamond mines. I wonder how many people have
scratched over the Premier without discovering its real
nature ? Now, however, things are different, and while
prospecting for diamonds just outside Beaconsfield they
have come upon a good workable seam of coal, which will
revolutionise things almost. Another important revolu-
tionising element that will shortly be an accomplished fact
is that we are going to have a School of Mines, that is — if all
goes well. One party is in favor of its being at the Cape,
but there is now prospects of its being here. The exhi-
bition is progressing very favorably, and I hope some of
your manufacturers will see their way clear to exhibit.
Of this they can be sure : that South Africa is an open market
for all that is required in this part of the globe. Our
commonwealth is increasing ; our output of gold is nearly
doubling every year ; we shall soon be the chief supply of the
world ; and our diamond industry, under any circumstances,
is good for a hundred years with only what is in sight.
Every year our mineral wealth will increase. We are not
separated from our mother country by prohibitive tariffs,
and we are not a set of sharpers wanting to copy her ideas
and patterns. We want a closer relation between us and
the mother country. We want you to exhibit, so that we
can see what you have to sell and where we can buy it ;
and I venture to think it will do you infinitely more good
to exhibit under these conditions than to send your goods
to a World's Fair, where everyone will be sight-seeing, and
there merely for pleasure, and where the best of motives
will not probably transcend idle curiosity.

Turning to the diamond trade, several events have
recently transpired of a very important character. The
strangest of all is that after settling with Mr. Ward in the
manner I described to you in my last, and agreeing for
him to work the mine with a limited output of 20,000
carats, they have made a fresh agreement with him
whereby Ward is to be pensioned off, and retire home to
America and enjoy the fruits of his toil. The De Beers
thus become sole possessors of the mine at once, and
can either work it or shut it down ; but of this we may
be certain — that they will maintain the monopoly as long
as they can. It is said that the working displayed a
condition prejudicial to the maintenance of the monopoly,
but I should not like to answer for this. Nor, indeed, does
it matter ; things are now practically, as they were before
the find. And what is worse, the field for labor which
the development of the Wesselton would have opened up
is now a vanquished hope. There is another important
case in which the De Beers have come out triumphantly,
even against the Government. It is the case to which I
have referred before in connection with the debris round
about the mines. You are aware that in former times
the old diggers shot their badly sorted debris in heaps on
waste land belonging to the Government. As soon as the
washing of this revealed the fact that the material was
worth the operation, De Beers asserted that it was theirs,
and became so upon the purchase of the mines. The
Government, on the other hand, said, " No, it was shot

April 1, 1892.]

THE WATCHMAKER, JEWELER AND SILVERSMITH.

199

upon our laud by the former owners, who left it: there
and deserted it ; and therefore it is ours." In all proba-
bility they intended either to wash it themselves, and so
find work for the unemployed, or let it out for washing.
But, would you believe it, the court ruled for the Premier ;
and a pretty warm time is in store for him, and although
people have hardly recovered from the knock-down blow
of the verdict, great indignation is being expressed.
Already the Advertiser has used some of the most unpar-
liamentary language against the Premier, placing him on.
the horns of a dilemma between his Satanic Majesty and
the deep sea. Time only will show what course he will
adopt, and what will follow. Another frightful piece of
business is that connected with Du Toits pan. You are
aware that they are the largest holders in this mine, and
have shut down their workings so that all the water runs
out of their claims, and floods that of the Gordon on the
north and of the British United on the south. And this,
too, notwithstanding the fact that these companies are
largely capitalised and worked by men who have been the
best of friends to those at the head of the De Beers.

For some reason or other, De Beers have been selling off
their stuff pretty close, mostly in immense lots ; one, of
which Messrs. Bonato were the purchasers, amounted, it is
said, to seven figures. Probably it was to supply the ready
cash for the Premier, although they have no need of it, see-
ing their reserve reaches seven figures.

La April and the first few days in March, the
N. E. Bultfontein turned out twelve hundred carats.
In January Jagersfontein found ll,903f carats, valued
at £28,000, which is the highest average since February,
1S90, and the highest but one in amount — the latter
occurred in December 1889, when it was £38,000. Of
course, the average price does not indicate the market value
so much as the quality of the stones found, although these
stones do not vary much, and are always very much higher
in value than the De Beers diamonds, the highest price yet
published for the latter being 29s. 6d.

S8©

Watch and Block Making.

(Continued from page 111.)

• ehn<s>coe.fS> cine} HotenS) to Que^tion^ £>et at ffte

d»it>/ anc| (S^uifcj^ of teoniloi} <$rul>titute

S^a mi nation^.

By I. Herrmann,
Director of the Polytechnic School of Watch and Clock Making.

(III.)— Honors Paper, 1880.

E gather from what has been observed on
page 177 that when a given mass is in
motion, the only condition that can vary
is its velocity, but the product of mass and
velocity is its momentum, which again is
equal to the sum of force increments that
i4a33fl«*i; •-- have acted on the mass, hence this force
must always vary as the velocity, and therefore

W pressure force momentum

g g velocity velocity

= mass = (a constant quantity)
So that finally, since at the end of one second g denotes
the velocity, W the momentum generated, and M the
quantity of matter, while W varies as g, it follows that
W

constant.

To connect this with the principle of" vis viva" or kinetic
energy, which is sometimes written

W v2

Here W signifies the same as M in pounds. M in

pounds must always be taken within limitation, that is
at a particular degree of latitude, where of course mass and
weight are identical, in. which case

Wv means the same as Mv.
An adequate conception of the full importance of the
principle can of course only be realised by experience, and
experience can only be acquired by exercise (except Avhere
communication is of a physical character), hence the
reason for the assertions by Todhunter.

Continuation of Note upon Page 139.
By reason of the above explanation of the moment of inertia
and radius of gyration, I may now show how the expression [(e)
page 6] is obtained.

Let a heavy rod be suspended from a horizontal axis at one
end, round which it can move freely, and let s denote the position
of the axis, and g that of the centre of gravity of the rod, and let h
denote the distance of g from s. Let 51 denote the mass of the rod,
K its radius of gyration, and 6 the angle of inclination of the rod,
with the vertical as it starts from rest. When the rod lias
oscillated to the vertical, the work done on the rod by gravity is

M g h. ver. sin. 6,
and this is its kinetic energy as given in (e) page 256 ; hence

j M K- &r =i M g h ver. sin. d (u;

2Mgh . „ 2 g'h

whence

ver. sin. 9

(")

L2 = 2

M K2 K-

Let L be the length of a simple pendulum, descending through an
angle 6, and a> its angular velocity at the lowest point ; then by (i>)

T • '^ °" L

L ver. sin. 6, hence a,2 = ~-° ~ ver. sin. d

Lt~
= 2_g
L

(I) and (v) if w = w,
2gh _ 2

Tt2" " : ~L

.... (£)

ver. sin. 6

(0,

hence by

hence

= !V5, or Lli= K-,

L =

that is in any compound pendulum, the length of the equivalent
simple pendulum is equal to the quotient of the square of the radius
of gyration divided by the distance of the centre of gravity
below the centre of suspension. I will show further on how
to apply this practically in the construction of a compensation
pendulum. Jn connection with this I may prove the interchangeabilitv
of the centres of suspension and oscillation, referred to on page 250
(volume xvi.), and in equation (ii).

It is a principle of the moment of inertia of a body, that if it is
caused to rotate round an axis through its centre of gravity, and
then alternate round a parallel axis through any other point, the
moment of inertia round the last axis is equal to the moment of
inertia round the axis through the centre of gravity, plus the product
of the mass of the body into the square of the distance between the
two axes.

Let K denote the radius of gyration round the axis through the
centre of gravity, and K, that round the parallel axis and h the
distance of the two axes ; hence

M K,- = M K- + h- Al, or K,- = K- + h2
whence by (£)

l = K2 + h2 = AY + ]l = h + ?*

li h h ^ h

and therefore

L — h =

Iv-

or (L — h) h = K2

but the left hand member of the last equation is the product of the
distance between the centre of suspension and the centre of gravity
and of the distance of the centre of gravity and centre of oscillation
which must always he a constant quantity ; hence the centre of
oscillation and centre of suspension are reciprocal or interchangeable.

By recent returns as to the number of marks gained by a watch
with a tourhillon train, these deductions appear to be contradicted by
inferences that may be drawn from that result, The inertia of matter
both at rest and in motion is too well established to he upset by any
inference. Those who may be troubled with doubt can satisfy 'them-
selves by two simple observations.

If they have any opportunity of listening to a tourhillon train they
will notice the bang at every drop of the escajied wheel, which expresses
the energy stored up in the tourbillon frame; and that energy requires
a proportional spring power, and means destruction to the parts by
which it is destroyed. We must remember that these trials always are
made under the most favorable conditions, and ought to be considered
in connection with the behaviourof a timepiece afterwards. Besides
there is a condition under which the balance moves most favorable to
good performance ; that is, it passes through all positions in relation
to external influences periodically, which are thereby neutralised.
Considering, moreover, that the unfavorable effect on the balance
during the early running of the timepiece is small, while the rotation
of the centres of the balance about a separate axis disposes of several

Mil

THE WATCHMAKER, JEWELER AND SILVERSMITH.

[April 1, 1892.

Telegraph Address-SY9EJMHAJVI, (3IRJVIINGHAJVI. Telephone Address-4,059.

wnolesale & Manufacturing Jeweller,

26, Frederick St., BIRMINGHAM,

For Home and Export. ENGLAND.

A. SYDENHAM,

GOLD AND SILVER WALTHAM WATCHES

(>!■• EVERY DESCRIPTION,

A Large Stock of these Splendid Watches to suit all Districts.

(ALL WATCHES HAVE COMPENSATION BALANCES, AND HAVE CRYSTAL GLASSES, AND, IN MOST CASES, BREQUET SPRINGS.)

Gentlemen's Matches.

Silver Open Face Snap Cases, from -
Silver Open Face Spring Cases, from -
Silver Hunters, from -
G:ld 10 carat Open Face from -
Gold 10 carat Hunters, from -
G:ld 10 carat Open Face, Keyless, from
Gold 10 carat Keyless Hunters, f <

Gold 18 carat Open Face,./-

Gold 18 carat Hunters, from -

Gold 18 carat Keyless, Open Face, from

Gold 18 carat Keyless Hunters, from

winding KeylesS Hunter

£1 12 9

1 13 9 —

4 13 0 —

— 5 8 0
8 2 0

— 9 17 0

XaMes? Matches.

2 0 6s

5 17 0

6 10 0
10 8 0

12 0 0

Silver Open Face, from -

Silver HuLters, /rom

Gold 10 carat Open ~F&oe,from

Gold 10 carat Hunters, from -

Gold 10 carat Open Face, Keyless, from

Gold 10 carat Keyless Hunters, from

Gold 18 carat Open Face, from

Gold 18 carat Hunters, //w«. -

Gold 18 carat Keyless, Open Face,./Vo«<

Gold 18 carat Keyless Hunteis, from

winding Keyless'Hun ter

£1 18 9
3 8 0

5 19 0

4 2 0

2 1 6

4 6 0

5 0 0
7 2 0

— 7 12 0

GOLD AND SILVER WALTHAM WATCHES OF ALL THE BEST SELLING GRADES IN STOCK.

WALTHAM WATCHES FOR LADIES, Hunter, Half-Hunter, Open Face, Keyless, Plain, Engraved, Fancy
and Enamelled Cases, 18-et and 10-et., Gold guaranteed, and Hall-marked Silver.

i^>im

A. SYDENHAM, Wholesale Jeweller, 26, Frederick Street, BIRMINGHAM, ENGLAND,

April 1, 1892.]

THE WATCHMAKER, JEWELER AND SILVERSMITH.

xiv

Telegraph Address-S Y 9 EJM H A jVI , 13 1 RJVI I N G H AJVI ,

Telephone Address— 4,059.

A. SYDENHAM

WMesale & Manufacturing JawallBr,

j 26, Frederick St., BIRMINGHAM,

For Home and Export. ENGLAND.

SYDENHAM'S

SET

DIAMOND and GEM
BROOCHES.

These
diamond and gem
set Gold Butter-
fly Brooches are
the prettiest
things ever made.
Pearl hodies as
sketch, 75/- each.
Can be used as
brooch or hair
ornament.

BRACELETS AND BANGLES

Of every description, from the cheapest to the most

expensive.
Bright Gold Bracelets, from 8/6 upwards.
Bright Gold Bangles, from 6/6 upwards.
Bracelets in Silver, narrow, Hall-marked, 3/- each.
Bangles in Silver at all prices.

1/-, 1/3, 1/6, 1/9, 2/- each.

This is the great house for

GOLD AND SILVER

THIMBLES.

Silver Hall-marked Thimbles,
7/6 to 18/- per dozen.

The New Dorcas Thimbles.

same as drawing, and other pretty

designs, 21/- per dozen.

Plain Pattern, 17/- per dozen.

RINGS MY GREAT SPECIALITY.

LADIES' RINGS of the most choice
description. I have one of the largest
and best selections of Ladies' Gem Rings
and Engagement Rings in the trade.
Over 5,000 to choose from.

Ladies' Half-Hoop Gem
Rings— All Diamond, 30/-
to £50 ; Diamond and Ruby,
25/- to £50

Ladies' Boat Set. Diamond
Rings at all prices.

DAISY.

18-ct., 15-et.. 9-ct., and Silver Link Suitesi
Studs and Collars of every description.

A. SYDENHAM for MEDALS

For Athletic Sports,

Skating, Yachting,

Boating, Curling,

Golfing, Swimming,

Shooting, &c.

Agricultural Shows.

Root, Bird, Dog,
Rabbit, Horse, Bee,

Pigeon, Canarj-,
Poultry Shows, &c.

DRAWINGS and
PRICES

On Application.

DIAMOND GOODS of every description.

Ladies' Diamond Rings, £1 to £20.

Gentlemen's Diamond Rings, £5 to £40.

Diamond Fichu Brooches.

Diamond Spray Brooches.

DIAMOND PINS from the cheapest to
the most expensive.

Keepers — 18-Carat — To those of my friends at
home and in the Colonies who have not yet
seen my splendid selection of 18-ct. Keepers,
I ask them to take an early opportunity of
buying samples of these choice goods at the
most reasonable prices.

Keepers — 9-Carat — The finest stock of '9-ct.
Keepers in the Trade.

Ladies' Diamond and Gem Set Rings
of every other description, 15/- to £25.

Rings, same as drawing, and

other pretty designs ; sell

very well. Real Diamond.

12/6 each.

Ladies' 15-ct. Ruby and
Pearl Gem Rings, like draw-
ing, and various other most
saleable patterns. 12/6each.

Gentlemen's Diamond Rings

at all prices.

Gentlemen's 18-ct., 15-ct., and 9-ct. Signet Rings

in great variety.

Special attention given to orders for
MASONIC JEWELS, SPECIAL
PIECES. PRESENTATION KEYS,
PRESENTATION JEWELLERY,
and OFFICIAL JEWELS of all
kinds.

NEWEST DESIGNS OF 9-CT. HALL-MARKED BROOCHES,

Special Line of 9-ct. Hall-Marked Brooches, various patterns, as drawings, and other pretty designs, all at 5/9 each.

These Brooches with Earrings to match, 8/9 per set.
SIMILAR BROOCHES, but larger size, 9-ct. Hall-Marked ... ... ... ... ... ... 8/3 each.

,, ,, ,, with Earrings to match ...

A large variety of all the most fashionable and bist value patterns in 9-ct. Gold Brooches always in stock.

11/3 per set.

A. SYDENHAM

ILLUSTRATED PRICE

gives special attention to all Colonial

Letters, and will be pleased to receive

Orders, if accompanied with Cash or

satisfactory English References.

LISTS ON APPLICATION

26, Frederick Street,
BIRMINGHAM,

ENGLAND.

200

THE WATCHMAKER, JEWELER AND SILVERSMITH.

[April 1, 1892.

influences to error, there is no need to run to the opposite conclusion
that inertia is a neglectable item.

The reader who has not got the opportunity of listening to a tour-
billon may find a very good substitute in an ordinary dial. Everyone
will have noticed that the sound of the tick is different on one pallet
to what it is on the other. The simple reason is, the rate of motion
decreases on the engaging pallet and increases on the disengaging ;
thus in the latter the escapement has more energy when it drops on
the engaging pallet, and hence the difference of sound. The effect of
this is often seen in the greater wear of that pallet, which may be a
criterion as to what time will effect on a tourbillon.
I To be continued. )

@Jfie ©inner of ffie gtfaff of Mr. ^. @\V.

S^en^on.

WHERE are few of us who have not felt an admiration
for Old Fezziwig on that memorable Christmas Eve
when such an enjoyable time was provided for
employes, and we feel that to only have been there
we would not even have objected to have been the boy from
over the way, smuggling ourselves in behind anyone.
But as we did not enjoy that privilege, we find a counter
solace in unfavorably contrasting the present with the
past, notwithstanding its extreme unjustifiability. As the
year rolls round we notice re-unions of employes scattered
through the various branches of some of the large firms,
on which occasions a wine bill is manufactured to an
amount that Fezziwig would have considered sufficient to
pay his best man years of salary. Such a gathering as
this is the one which took place on March 5th, at the
Freemasons' Tavern, from the united houses of the firm of
Mr. J. W. Benson, when the principal and senior assistants
to the number of about 40 sat down to the annual dinner.
Mr. Gould (manager of Ludgate Hill Branch) was in the
chair; and Mr. Bulley (Old Bond Street), vice-chairman.
It speaks something for a firm of this dimension to be
able to say that during the six years these annual gather-
ings have been made, one could count upon the fingers of
one hand all of the original roll that have left the firm
(except those claimed by the monster that awaits us all).
After the usual toasts and the musical honors paid to that
of the firm, a selection of well-executed vocal and instru-
mental music, helped down by a bountiful supply of wines
and cigars of the finest brands, was indulged in and
thoroughly enjoyed.

MeMnJ.

. gB0'1'^ $2- gf>on<s>' ehnnuctf ©inner
anil 3rr]°^'riS (Concert.
EXT to a dinner comes a smoking concert, when it
becomes possible to add to a gathering represent-
atives of "the trade." Actuated probably by this
idea, Messrs. S. Smith and Sons have for some years
in succession given a " Smoker," the last one being
celebrated on the 10th ult, at the Freemasons' Tavern,
with Samuel Smith, Esq. in the chair, at which 450
of the Trade attended. There was a programme of music
of every kind and description, sketches, solos and songs,
between which it would be difficult to choose. Perhaps
'•The Whistling Coon" brought the floor into more
trouble than anything else, but yielded in enthusiasm
to that displayed at the toast of " the Firm." Mr. Jeffreys
replied on behalf of the employes. Mr. Salter proposed
"the chairman," which was also very enthusiastically
received. In response, the chairman expressed his great
pleasure at meeting so many of " the Trade " on the
occasion. Mr. Smith evidently does not believe in " keep-
ing the trade at a distance."

Not resting with the success of the concert, the firm
gave the annual dinner to the employes on the 19th ult.,
at the same old tavern, where "the good things of time
and sense" were liberally indulged in. And even yet the
cry is "still they come," for next year a new feature is to
be added by way of a " Ladies' night."

(^ofiUmiffW and) ^ecoefer^' ehnnu'fy anil
eJ\/&ijfum <#n*$>£ifu£ion.

« MONO ST the matter unavoidably left over from our
last number was the account of the annual dinner
of the committee, and half-yearly meeting of the
above laudable institution. The only thing against
which we have anything to say is that no effort is ever made
to bring it, or its actions, before the trade. Elsewhere we
publish a letter from a country subscriber, asking for infor-
mation respecting the trade charities, and we are prepared
from experience to say that our country friends are no less
enlightened than the majority of their town brethren.
We have constantly called attention to this fact, to those
whose duty it is to publish these reports, or to endeavour
to get them published, and we hope after this public
notification we shall see a better line adopted in the
future, or we shall in the interests of those charities try
something else. When we consider how large a portion
of the capital of almost every prosperous and flourishing
concern to-day has been expended upon advertising, it
becomes evident where the secret of success lies, and what
advertisement could be so telling as the chronicling of the
good work being done by these associations? Yet no
trouble is taken to notify these meetings, or what
transpires at them. We are extremely sorry to have to
use this strong language, and should not do so if we had
not been at this question before. Notwithstanding this
little shortcoming, we are pleased to say that the number
of subscribers for 1891 increased from 1476 to 1620, but
we should like to see it infinitely more than this, especially
as of the 144 increase Mr. Hooper introduced 72.
£1,231 12s. 4d. was paid to annuitants, £61 18s. to inmates
of the Asylum, £29 for coals, and £3 a death claim.
£400 was invested in Consols, and £441 10s. 6d. was left
in hand. The reserve fund now stands at £10,287 9s. 7d.
Some amendments of laws were proposed, but lost. The
result of the polling was as follows : — Males : Bolton,
2,988; Kempson, 3,008; Yandall, 1,773; Cockram, 1,650;
the two first being elected. Females : Woelfell, 1,933 ;
Freeman, 1,788 ; Lowe, 376 ; Tapley, 700 ; Smith, 791 ; Franc,
65 ; Bocock, 1,101 ; the two first being elected. A vote of
thanks to the chairman for presiding closed the
proceedings.

A Fine Silver Trophy. — This present month of March
has come in like a lion or Polar bear, for since its com-
mencement the frost has been the keenest and the snow
the deepest of any we have encountered during the past
winter. We have been lately experiencing an eager and
nipping air, but the thaw now setting in gives us a fore-
thought of summer and genial sunny days. The mention
of athletic sports will call up such pleasing anticipations,
and that being so is it any wonder the prizes offered by the
Crossland Moor Athletic Club, and which are now amongst
other trophies being exhibited by Messrs. Fattorini and
Son, in their Kirkgate windows, should attract by-passers
to such an extent as to make them crowd round to view
the lavish display ? In point of beauty, novelty, and value
these far eclipse any previous "awards of merit" offered
by the promoters of the Crossland Moor Athletic Festival.
They amount in value to £70, and embrace several distinct
innovations on the usual order of prize-list valuables,
which fact alone will doubtless induce competitors of the
highest standing to enter. There are those amongst them
quite shrewd enough to prefer things Avhich are of sterling
value and utility to the more meretricious and showy gew-
gaws so often offered for competition on occasions of this
kind. The collection of prizes are well worth looking at,
and reflects credit alike on those entrusted with the
choosing and those who provide the many beautiful
articles comprised in the show.

April 1, 1892.]

THE WATCHMAKER, JEWELER AND SILVERSMITH.

201

ffte ^eao f^epoH .

Kew Obsekvatoky. — Performance of the 29 Watches which obtained the highest number of marks during the 14 months
to December 31st, 1891.

Difference o

' mean daily

Marks awarded

6o
a

i 3

rate.

£ 60

for

» .

« 1

"os

3+3

3 ,

~ a

Watch deposited by

Number

of
Watch.

Balance spring,

escapement, &e.

I1 •

■a to

g .3

a
_o

^§

3
>

03
X

S3
03

"2 .

.5 ft

■a 5*

3 3

OJrrt

|1"

+^
c to

OS'S

CD 3

Peg
s a

CD CD

£ P.

CD 3

3 CD

13 +=

0 0

CD 03
ft-O

3 £

8 ft

03
ft .

3 s

CD*C

£°

CDT3

.n 3

0J ^

S 60

3 q

53 .9
cS CO

S6o

O
3
O

■g,2

03 °

5 ft

<H CH

o o

CD CD
60 60
3 1
CS 03
XI ,3

<D Z

a .2

1e>

« *

FQ *

'3
O

O °

sees.

Stauffer, Son <fc Co., London

136862

Single overcoil,

g.b., tourbillon

chronometer

+0-2

0'3

0-03

—0-3

+0-2

+ 03

+ 0-4

34-4

39-3

17-9

91-6

Baume & Co., London

103011

Single overcoil,

g.b., tourbillon

chronometer

—1-2

0-25

0-04

—0-8

+0-2

—30

5-2

35-2

17-2

87-5

A. E. Fridlander, Coventry

52720

Single overcoil,

d.r., g.b., lever

—0-8

0-4

0-04

—0-5

—1-0

+3-7

6-2

354

17-6

85-4

A. E. Fridlander, Coventry

52730

Single overcoil,

s.r., g.b.

+ 3-8

0-4

0-04

+2-2

+ 2

+4-0

+ 2-5

7-2

34-6

17-7

84-6

E. F. Ashley, London

04107

Single overcoil,

s.r., fusee

—03

0-4

0-06

+ 1-9

+ 2

+ 1-0

—0-1

5-2

369

15-7

84-4

E. F. Ashley, London

04047

Single overcoil,

s.r., fusee

+ 0-3

0-07

+i-o.

+ 0

+ 0-2

+0-4

381

15-2

83-8

Usher ifc Cole, London

24390

Single overcoil,

s.r., g.b.

+ 1-4

0-5

0-05

—0-6

+ 26

—0-1

7-0

36-0

169

83-5

A. E. Fridlander, Coventry

52339

Single overcoil,

d.r., g.b.

—06

0-5

0-03

+ 0-1

— 2

—4-2

—1-5

6-2

342

18-3

83-2

T. E. Russell, Liverpool

86600

Single overcoil,

s.r., g.b.

+ M

0-7

0-01

+ 1-4

— 0

+0-6

—0-6

5-2

37-8

19-4

83-0

W. Holland, Rock Ferry . .

3690

Single overcoil,

s.r., g.b.

+ 3-4

0-5

0-03

+ 1-2

+ 2

+ 4-2

+1-3

6-8

355

18-2

82-8

Jos. White & Son, Coventry

32142

Single overcoil,

d.r., g.b.

— 0-9

0-5

0-08

+ 1-9

+ 1

+ 1-4

—1-6

5-3

37-4

150

82-5

Jos. White & Son, Coventry

31926

Single overcoil,

d.r., fusee

+3-8

0-09

—o-i

— 1

+ 2-3

+ 0-2

7-5

36-5

14-3

82-0

Rotherham & Sons, Coventry

86529

Single overcoil,

s.r., g.b.

+ 1-9

0-5

004

+2-8

+ 2

+ 1-4

+0-8

8-5

35-4

17-5

81-9

A. E. Fridlander, Coventry

13113

Single overcoil,

s.r., g.b.

—2-7

0-5

0'06

+ 0-8

— 1

+2-0

+ 1-6

35-0

160

81-5

Jos. White & Son, Coventry

32256

Single overcoil,

d.r., g.b.

+ 0-1

0-4

0-06

+ 0-3

—3

—2-8

—0-4

5-0

34-3

16-0

81-5

J. Newsome & Co., Coventry

108491

Single overcoil,

s.r., g.b.

—3-5

0-6

0-03

—2-0

— 0

+0-7

+ 0-1

7-0

36-1

17-7

81-3

Rotherham & Sons, Coventry

88064

Single overcoil,

s.r., g.b.

—06

0-6

0-05

—1-0

+ 0

—1-6

+ 1-4

370

17-0

81-2

A. E. Fridlander, Coventry

52704

Single overcoil,

d.r., g.b. . .

—2-8

0-6

0-02

—2-6

+ 0

—24

+4-7

28-8

33-5

18-8

81-1

E. F. Ashley, London

03968

Single overcoil, (palladium),

s.r., g.b.

—02

0-5

0-lli

—0-8

—0-9

4-0-5

7-2

30-6

37-9

125

81-0

Rotherham & Sons, Coventry

86764

Single overcoil,

s.r., g.b.

+ 1-9

0-6

005

+0-1

—0-7

—0-6

7-2

28-7

35-6

16-7

81-0

A. E. Fridlander, Coventry

52706

Single overcoil, (palladium),

d.r., g.b., non-magnetic

—1-8

0-5

003

—1-2

— 2

—1-4

+ 4-3

7-0

292

33-6

18-0

80-8

H. Golay, London . .

2001

Double overcoil

, s.r., g.b.

+0-3

0-4

0-08

+3-9

—0-3

—1-0

5-8

32-0

33-7

15-0

80-7

1 E. F. Ashley, London

04022

Single overcoil,

d.r., fusee

+0-1

0-6

0-06

+0-9

+ 1

+0-7

—2-9

28-2

36-4

16-0

80-6

E. F. Ashley, London

04028

Single overcoil,

s.r., fusee

—0-7

0-5

009

+ 0-9

—1-5

—2-5

5-7

30-7

35-6

14-3

80-6

Jos. White & Son, Coventry

33438

Single overcoil,

d.r., g.b.

+ 0-2

0-7

0-04

—1-6

+ 1

—1-4

+1-1

5'5

25-6

37-4

17-5

80-5

A. E. Fridlander, Coventry

52683

Single overcoil,

d.r., g.b.

—2-4

0-4

0-07

—0-7

—3-2

—2-0

6-5

31-5

336

15-3

80-4

Rotherham & Sons, Coventry

86526

Single overcoil,

s.r., g.b.

+0-8

0-6

006

+2-1

+ 1-0

+0-8

28-3

35-8

16-3

80-4

A. E. Fridlander, Coventry

52686

Single overcoil,

d.r., g.b.

—0-9

0-6

0-04

—1-4

+ 0-1

+4-5

7-2

27-1

35-7

17-4

80-2

T. R. Russell, Liverpool

87023

Single overcoil,

s.r., g.b.

—0-5

0-5

0-06

+2-8

+ 4-1

+ 2-5

—2-4

29-9

344

15-9

80-2

In the above List the following abbreviations are used, viz. : — s.r. for single roller ; d.r. for double roller ; g.b. for going barrel.

.Most of our readers are aware that the end of the Kew
year has been made to coincide with the civil year, instead
of terminating in October, so that the last report contains
the work of fourteen months. The first thing that must
strike one is the extraordinary performance of the tour-
billon chronometer of Messrs. Stauffer, which has beaten
all records, and one cannot help trying to imagine what
were the feelings of Messrs. Baume when their watch, so
nearly like it, and scoring a grand and almost unheard of
total of 87'5 marks, had to give precedence to its sister.
That these two watches are the finest that have been turned
out no one will deny. Our own children, however, need
not be ashamed of themselves, for their performance is
quite up to, and indeed exceeds the average, and it is not
for one moment likely they will ever meet with two such
formidable competitors again.

The specially good class numbers 29 in the report out of
709 entries, distributed as follows : 468 for class A, of

which 327 passed ; 153 for class B, of which 140 passed ;
86 for class 0, of which 49 passed, and two subsidiary
trials.

Now that dynamos are becoming as plentiful as sewing-
machines, the question of non-magnetic watches is becom-
ing an important one ; and as Professors Riicker and
Thorpe have made such a speciality of magnetism and
magnetic influences, the Kew authorities are in communi-
cation with these gentlemen, who have turned their atten-
tion to research in this line, with results that cannot fail
to be of great service.

Marine chronometers also underwent the usual trials.
Although the numbers are not larger, their standard of
performance is maintained

On the next page will be found the list of highest
records obtained by Complicated Watches during the
fourteen months ending December 31st, 1891.

202

THE WATCHMAKEK, JEWELER AND SILVERSMITH.

[April 1, 1892.

Kkw Observatory. — Highest Records obtained by Complicated Watches during the fourteen months to December 31st,

1891.

Description of "Watch.

Number.

Deposited by

Marks awarded for

Total
marks,
0-100.

Variation.

Position.

Tempera-
ture.

Minute and split-seconds chronograph, and minute repeater
ii ii ii ii i,

2286
2970

Jos. White and Son, Coventry . .
Baurne and Co., London

22-9
27-8

37-5
31-7

16-0
10-7

76-4
70-2

Minute and seconds chronograph and minute repeater

!> >) 17 >)

>> >> ii >>

2968
52733
26516

Bauine and Co., London
Fridlander, Coventry
Usher and Cole, London

28-1
29-7
27-9

35-3

28-4
30-4

15-1
18-0
14-1

78-5
76-1
72-4

Minute and split-seconds chronograph

)? J, ,,

!> J! ,, ........

86764
S6522
34920

Rotherham and Sons, Coventry . .
S. Smith and Son, London

28-7
27-2
25-6

35-6
35-3
29-1

16-7
16-3
18-0

81-0
78-8
72-7

Minute and seconds chronograph

>! ,, ,, ........

>> >) j)

52683

1868

60183

Fridlander, Coventry

G. Edward and Sons, London . .

Antoine Freres, Besan^on

31-5
26-3
27-3

33-6
36-5
31-4

15-3
15-5
19-3

80-4
78-3
78-0

Ordinary seconds chronograph

j i * j j? . . • • . . . .
i> »> ,, .......

92485

1986

98764

Rotherham and Sons, Coventry . .

Golay, London ...

Rotherham and Sons, Coventry. .

26-2
30-2
22-1

34-8
31-8
32-9

18-3

11-3

16-7

79-3
73-3
71-7

Minute repeater . . . . . . . .

36693

52756

9694

S. Smith and Son, London *
Fridlander, Coventry
W. Clarke, London

26-0
23-7
16-7

34-4
26-8
32-2

7-9
14-7
15-1

68-3
65-2
64-0

§Re MariCet^.

TRADE WITH ABROAD.

EXPORTS.

Plate and Plated Ware show a great falling off in
February. One used to see £50,000 or £60,000, but it has
now dwindled down to £23,712 — over £2,000 less than last
year. How is this ?

IMPORTS.

Clocks to the total value of £33,896 were imported in
February, compared with £38,262 of February, 1891.

Watches to the total value of £56,744, compared with
£57,888 of last year.

Total British Exports are about 5 per cent, less than for
February, 1891, and Imports about 3 per cent. more.

MOTHER-O'-PEARL.

The last quarterly sale, on the whole, did not amount to
any very great alteration of prices upon last sale. Six
cases Sydney fetched £11 ; Medium, from £8 7s. 6d. to
£9 5s. ; Chicken, £8 7s. 6d. to £8 17s. 6d. ; West Australian
fetched occasionally a little less. Pile I., 188 cases passed
the hammer, and were withdrawn — a fate shared by several
others, although there was a numerous attendance. Chicken
grubby, and pieces were about old prices, some a little
less.

DIAMONDS.

Although it was feared by some merchants that prices
would not be maintained, and that a fall was imminent,
unfortunately for the manufacturer, those fears have not
been fully justified. It is true that in some class of goods
the demand has shown a little flagging, but good medium
stuff has retained its price, the demand for which is quite
equal to its supply.

SILVER.

There has been an all-round quiet in the silver market
during March, with a general drooping tendency, which
during the month has amounted to over a penny, com-
mencing as it did at 41^d. and dropping to nearly 40d. ; but,
owing to the unfavorable outlook for silver legislation in
the United States towards the last few days, the markets
were at a perfect standstill, and sometimes no quotations
could be obtained.

COPPER.

Copper perhaps is the only metal showing any marked
movement in price, which is perhaps to some extent due to
speculation. At the beginning of the month it was about
£44 15s., from which it has risen to £46 17s. 6d., but the
last few days indicated a recession.

TIN.
This metal has been quiet all the month, although firm,
and with a slight increase of price from £89 5s. to
£89 15s.

SPELTER.
Spelter is practically unchanged at about £21 2s. 6d.

LEAD.

Lead has also remained stationary at £11.

QUICKSILVER.
Quicksilver, despite its physical mobility, has partici-
pated in the calm at £7 2s. 6d.

***==-

Large Finds of Amber. — News reaches us of large finds
of amber during the gales of the early winter along the
shores of the Baltic, which would indicate that this fossil
resin is not yet exhausted, nor indeed is it likely to be. Still
the price of this valuable commodity does not decrease ;
pieces have been found valued at £1,500. One of the most
interesting collections in this country is owned by Mr.
Weingott, of Fleet Street, E.C., which includes upwards
of a hundred specimens of bright hyacinth red. The same
gentleman once successfully manipulated a walking-stick
out of a large lump.

April 1, 1892.]

THE WATCHMAKER, JEWELER AND SILVERSMITH.

203

©eterminattoe §emmofo

THE PLEOCHROISM OF GEMS.

By the Editor.

[Continued from page 178.)

The Origin of Color in Gems.
RECOLLECT hearing "a great authority"
inform a noble lord that a ruby was a white
sapphire with a little red colored stuff added,
just as his lordship had had his house painted
the then fashionable red. But anyone with
the slightest knowledge of optics or chemistry knows that
colorless ingredients, when mixed, often give rise to
brilliant and highly colored compounds. The various hues
in which gems occur are the result of processes the very
opposite to those suggested by painting. We have
frequently observed that it is entirely a selective property
on the part of the given gem in absorbing part of the
constituent colors of white light and reflecting others,
which are called complimentary to each other. Thus if
white light falls upon a gem part of the former is scattered
by the structures, at or near the surface of the latter, and
if the part which reaches our eye is yellow, those rays
which have been absorbed are the complimentary color or
blue. This will, perhaps, be a little better understood by
reference to the following list of complimentary colors
arranged in pairs. When a ray of white light is split up
into either of these pairs one ray is one hue, and the other
its complimentary, e.g., red and slightly bluish-green —

Red

( Yellow

Slightly bluish-green

\ Blue

Orange

jj Green

Greenish-blue

( Purple

If we follow the spectrum further it will only be to repeat
the foregoing in the reversed order. If the hue is, say,
between red and orange, then its complimentary will also
be between their complimentaries, and so on. Any of
these pairs added together (and the same may be said of
thousands of others) produce white light. But there is
another important phenomena upon which dichroscopic
examination depends, and that is, that either of these hues
are themselves capable of being split up, as it were, into
cornphmentaries, or we might, perhaps, call them suppli-
mentaries as shown by the use of this invaluable little
instrument. Two gems may appear of the same hue to the
eye, but the application of the dichroscope informs us that in
one case the blue is the result of light waves in such a
condition as to be able to pass through the dichroscope
without apparent splitting up, and in the other that such is
not the case, and that the blue we see is itself composed
of another blue, and a straw-yellow. Let us consider the
hue by which we know the gem — the color which is either
reflected and scattered back to our eye — as the result of
the absorption by the gem of part of the constituents of
white light, and reflecting back those which reach us ; or,
in other words, absorbing rays of given lengths, and allowing
others to pass or to be reflected as the case may be.
Dealing with the transmitted ray in the case under con-
sideration, let us see what takes place. Now, in page 178,
we saw that the conductivity of the ruby differed according
to the direction in which it was traversed. If we imagine
a ray vibrating in all azimuths striking this gem, by the
well-known principle of the composition of forces (a law
so intimately connected with pendulums) it will be reduced
into two planes at right angles to each other. Now, as we
saw that there were two planes in the gem lying at right
angles, in one of which transmission was more easy than
the other, we may be well assured that the easiest one
will be one of those chosen. The ray will thus proceed

through the gem in two parts, each vibrating at right
angles to the other, and is thus said to be polarized in two
planes. We shall also find that absorption is much
greater in some directions than others.

When Dichroic Gems Appear Monochroic.

We must further bear in mind that when a ray passes
along an optic axis it encounters an all-sided resistance as
shown in Fig 3 ; a gem therefore shows no dichroism when
viewed along this axis, no matter what it be. It thus
becomes evident that it is necessary to know something of
crystallography before one can make much headway in
the science of gemmology. We have before us a beau-
tiful crystal of zorcon, Fig 29.

Viewed through either of the prismatic faces, it is beauti-
fully dichroic (green and brown). If, however, we view it
from point to point, along the optic axis, it is perfectly
monochroic, exhibiting neither of the hues we see in the
other directions. Upon turning the gem through a few
degrees, we see the two hues make their appearance, one of
the squares going greener and the other more towards a
yellow-brown, which obtain their maximum dichroism when
the gem is viewed at right angles to the length of the
prism. We have selected a perfect crystal in this case to

show the unmistakable position of the monochroic axis in
relation to the gem. As we shall subsequently see, there
are two of these axes in some gems, dispersed through
characteristic angles. We ought also to have noted that
when viewed along the optic axis, the two squares were
practically of the same intensity. We notice no more absorp-
tion in one than in the other.

We now place a ruby, Fig. 15, in the dichroscope. Through
either of the lateral planes it is beautifully dichroic, but
viewed from end to end we fail to get the slightest traces of
a second color when the light passes straight through the
crystal. If, however, we lean forward, which is the same
thing as turning the stone, we get the light falling at an
angle to the optic axis, and in so doing passing over the
crystal in two directions, along which light does not travel
uniformly, consequently the vibrations of the ray become
split up in two directions, which must necessarily give rise
to different hues. We thus see that in the dinletric and
hexagonal systems dichroism is not exhibited along an optic
axis, no matter whether the stone be revolved with the
stage round the prism, or the prism revolved upon its own
axis, it is absolutely monochroic. We have before called
attention to the necessity of making both these revolutions,
and hence it becomes obvious that our improvements in the
dichroscope alone make it a useable and reliable instrument..

The Axechroism op Gems.

We have previously referred to the greater ease with which
waves of light can traverse a crystal in certain directions
than in others. This gives rise under certain conditions to
the splitting up of a ray into two parts, polarized in
opposite planes, in which case one ray is more refracted
and a little behind the other, both, becoming differently
colored. Upon analysing the light from such gems by the'
dichroscope the color phenomena becomes more em-
phasised. We therefore speak of such gems as being;
dichroic, in contradistinction to those which exhibit only one

201

THE WATCHMAKER, JEWELER AND SILVERSMITH.

[April 1, 1892.

bue under the same conditions, which we call monochroic.
By-and-bye we shall get. so accustomed to these phenomena

thai we shall often be able to detect them by our own optic
organs in cut gems, from whose surrounding faces light is
reflected through numerous directions. In uncut gems
there is practically nothing to distinguish these properties.
Before me is a parcel of Burma rubies and spinels, all
apparently of the same light red hue. Many of them are
unique specimens of crystalization, hut they show no signs
whatever of different colors through their several axes ;
spinels and rubies are indistinguishable when worn to
pebbles by their hue alone. There is one exceptionally fine
low barrel- shaped ruby, about the same height as width,
and most delicate tests, save polaric-analyses, fail to reveal
any difference of hue through its various axes. Turning to
other gems, we are struck by a remarkably different state
of things, for in these we see conspicuous differences of bue
according to the axis along which they are viewed ; some-
times it is one of tone, or tint and shade, but at others it is
another bue altogether. Sometimes it is different in one
axis only ; at others it is different in all three. For these
phenomena I have elsewhere proposed the name axechroic.

When, therefore, a gem transmits only one of the same
colored light along all its axes, it is mon-axichroic ; when
it transmits two, di-axechroic ; and when all three are
different, tri-axechroic.

Before me is a packet of waterworn gems of apparently
the same hues as each other; the first I take up is a zircon.
So far as one sees there is no difference in the hue viewed
in any direction (i.e., along either of its axes), but the next
gem, a tourmaline, presents a beautiful green all round in
one direction, but at right angles it is almost black. In
other gems we find a further complication ; here is
an axinite, a blue along one axis, a dark green along a
second, while along a third it is cinnamon. The explana-
tion of this we must leave till our next.
( To be continued. J
— 3®**S

@Jranx$atf antic ^otting^.

(From Our New York Correspondent.)

IT LL on this side are Exposition-mad. What that display
JVj will be like no one can imagine. The whole of our
ML manufacturers are going in largely. Trade associa-
tions are fixing on the best means of making our
trade exhibit the grandest and most imposing of any. The
members of most associations will combine and make
united displays, which will exceed anything the world has
ever seen.

* * *

YT7HE magnificent collection of gems got together for
®1® Messrs. Tiffany and Co.'s Paris exhibit by their
expert, G. F. Kunz, has been purchased by J. P.
Morgan, and presented to theAmerican Museum of Natural
History, New York. It contains over 1,000 specimens,
and was valued at about 40,000 dols. So complete and
interesting was the collection that it was awarded two gold
medals — one for Messrs. Tiffany and the other for Geo. F.
Kunz. It contains every species of gem known, all of
which are of American origin, and many, i am told, are
exclusively American.

* * *

fCCORDING to the summary of imports and exports
to December, 31, 1891, compared with the mean of
the last five years, the imports into the United States
show the following increase: clocks, watches, etc., 97,786
dols. ; jewelry of all descriptions, precious stones, etc.,
615,194 dols. But in exports, watches and clocks have
decreased 32,073 dols.

* # #
lUT the amassing of five years' figures no more tells

the way the wind is blowing than does a map which
puts a county on the line of S.W. trade winds. If

we take the month of December, 1891, and compare it
with the previous December, we get a better indication.
In this we find that rough materials are on the increase
in far more increasing ratio than finished articles ; thus,
rough, uncut gems amounted to 134,326 dols., against
105,787 dols. of the year before (but that month in 1890
was about double that of some). The total amount of
diamonds and other precious stones amounted to 975,772
dols., but the unset and imitation amounted to 11,769,663
dols.

* * *

[gTLOCKS and watches have had their fates divided, the
[£) increase of imported clocks being as 19,798 dols. to
9,865 dols. Watch movements and materials have
fallen from 206,094 to 138,362 dols., and, despite the rage
for silver goods, the class under which they fall show a
decline.

* # *

§N exports both watches and clocks are nearly 50 per
cent, behind last year ; but jewelry and gold and silver
and plated wares all show a remarkable increase, in

some cases 500 per cent.

* * *

HEAR the trade talking about the new process of
Martin Brunor, who sets forth his invention as follows :
"My process not only effectually and economically
removes the green from gold with a minimum loss of gold,
but it does not in any way destroy the finish ; on the con-
trary, the articles come from the bath highly polished in
the most intricate crevices. With the large machine I can
in four minutes' time remove the green and polish a gross
of rings. By my process of dip gilding I can in two
minutes further time give them a finish that renders the
use of the scratch brush unnecessary."

* # *
T has been decided that the convicts in Southern Illinois

Penitentiary shall be set to work to make pearl buttons
and pearl jewelry.

Hoiasdi tMm Waleto l?~aet®££@8.

The Engel National Watch Company have been incorpor-
ated by the Secretary of State, in Chicago, with a capital
of 70,000 dols. ; shares 100 dols. each. Offices, Room 130,
No. 115 Dearborn Street.

The Rochford Watch Case Company are making strides.
They have recently bought up the plant of the Kenosha
Watch Case Company for 30,000 dols. They are about
making great structural additions.

The Non-Magnetic Watch Company have issued a notice
to the effect that if any further reductions are made in the
prices of Paillard Watches, they will rebate the stocks on
hand in the trade in cash.

Another " cheap " watch will shortly be on the market.
A company has been formed to manufacture one with an
entirely new escapement.

News comes from the Aurora that Superintendent Cain
will shortly have his new model watch on the market. They
have been at a large expense in providing machinery for its
manufacture. Their next prodigy is to be a " self-winding "
one. They have given up the dial department, and the
contract is let to a Springfield firm.

The Waltham are increasing their output since the
introduction of their new machinery ; the roll in February
stood at 2,912.

The Boston Clock Company has discharged its mortgage
of 1885 for 125,000 dollars.

Death of Mr. Alfred Pegler, J. P.— We regret to have
to announce the death of a very prominent, well-known,
and highly-respected member of the trade, Mr. Alfred
Pegler, J. P., of Southampton, from an attack of grippe,
followed by bronchitis.

April 1, 1892]

THE WATCHMAKER, JEWELER AND SILVERSMITH.

205

Panc|oiTi 52>riefPetl&.

Silyeesmithy in the States. — The Gorham Manu-
facturing Company employ over 1,500 hands, pay nearly
25,000 dollars a week in wages, and used upwards of
1,000,000 ounces of silver last year. They are engaged
on some prodigious work for the Exhibition.

Extensive Robbery of Watches. — Over 700 watches
and a quantity of jewelry were stolen from the premises of
of Mr. W. J. Holmes, 173, Hockley Hill, Birmingham,
between Sunday, the 7th ult., and Monday, the 8th.
The burglars got safely away.

Does Necessity of Article Constitute Debt '? — In a
recent case a Welsh judge decided that a second wedding
ring was not a necessity, and consequently gave judgment
and costs against Messrs. Harris and Son, of Merthyr, who
sued a Mr. Hicks for 32s. 6d. for a new wedding ring sold
to replace the one formerly belonging to Mrs. Hicks, but
which years of hard usage had worn out.

The Malay Peninsula offers a market for small diamond
articles. Gold and silver jewelry also finds a good sale.

A Case of Watches was recently stopped by Turkish
Customs officers because inside the cases was stamped
" Mashallah," a word meaning " Allah preserve you."

Mr. Thomas Gwynne, of the Victoria Tin Works, Britton
Ferry, was recently presented by the workmen with a
magnificent silver tea and coffee set supplied by Messrs. J.
W. Benson, value of £120. There are two things South
Welshmen all do — swear by "Mist-er Ben-son" and
make each other presents.

The Pearl Humbug, which sets forth that a man is
going to deposit pearls like silver in a battery, is still go-
ing the round of the press. We suppose when the papers
saw it in our trade journals they thought there must be
something in it. We have been asked to give a note upon
this, and we will do so shortly.

The Swiss Export of Watches for 1888 was valued at
£3,400,000 ; in 1889 it rose to even numbers, £4,000,000 ;
in 1890 to £4,150,000. Setting aside our nationality for
the moment, we say " Bravo little Switzerland ! "

L' enfant prodigue, who eloped with some £40,000, the
property of his widow mother, a jeweler in Paris, has been
arrested in this country. Whatever the law in France
may be, Sir John Bridge issued a search warrant for the
house in which the young Frenchman had resided, with
the result of finding £15,000 secreted under the floor.
The lady who accompanied him has fled to Belgium, but
has been extradited.

A Cardiff Jeweler has twice recently been rewarded
for being the means of recovering stolen property. He has
handed over the money to the Cardiff Infirmary.

The Ridiculous Side of an " Act " was recently ex-
hibited in Birmingham when a spectacle maker was fined
40s. and costs for allowing his apprentice boy to " mess "
about in the shop after 7 o'clock. We should imagine the
Inquisitor, or " Dreadful Russia " could not eclipse this.

A Very Clever Capture of three dangerous characters
was recently made by detectives near Leicester Square,
from seeing a piece of silver sticking out of a parcel one was
carrying. Following them, the officers succeeded in captur-
ing the villainous trio, and upon the premises of one of
them were found all the apparatus necessary for smelting.
Two of them are now safe for six years and the third for
twelve months.

A Darlington Pony the other day tried the strength of
Mr. David Ventriss' plate-glass window by rearing up and
making a plunge at it when in a frightened state, with the
result of strewing the jewelry, etc., in all directions.

Me. Nyburg has had a new trial granted in the case of
Mr. Ullman, reported two months since. Costs to stand at
present.

Mrs. Hargreave, it is said, cannot bear to have the ear-

rings in her possession now that cost her " darling Ethel "
such a punishment, and has sold them. We did not
hear of any such compunction in regard to innocent Mr.
Spink, and the suffering he would have had to endure, to

the tune of £550, had not the guilt of this ? been

brought home.

The Fish and the Ring almost finds a parallel in a
report a fortnight ago, that a valuable diamond ring was
found in the stomach of a pig by some Smithfield pig-
stickers.

Jubilee Coins, which had been mounted as brooches,
were being tendered in the mining districts during the strike.

Ex-Mayor of Manchester, Mr. William Batty, a well-
known and highly-respected member of the trade of Man-
chester, Stockport, and Liverpool, has been called upon to
pay the last debt to nature at the age of sixty-eight. His
funeral was attended by all the local and civic digni-
taries, who thus testified to the extremely exalted esteem
in which he was held.

A Painful sensation was caused, on March 10th, in
Blackpool by the announcement that a highly respected
jeweler, Mr. A. M. Viener, had died from the effects of an
overdose of chloral taken medicinally.

Turret Clocks Multiply. — ■ St. George's, Hanover
Square, Vestry are the first to realise the benefit of public
clocks throughout the metropolis. Their first tower has
been erected, by Messrs. Gillett and Johnson, at the junc-
ture of Victoria Street, Vauxhall Bridge Road. The clock
has a gravity escapement, and an automatic gas lighter,
similar to those of the Manchester Town Hall and the
Royal Courts of Justice. In the country, too, several have
recently been put up. One at the Goole Post Office, by
Messrs. Potts and Sons ; and another, by the same makers,
at Scalby Parish Church, near Scarboro'. The latter is a
double three-legged gravity escapement, compensating pen-
dulum. An 8-J-ft. double-dialed timester has been erected
.by Messrs. John Smith and Son at WalshaAV, near Bury,
Lanes.

Burglars were surprised recently in Bridge Street, Sun-
derland, by the bursting forth of the glare of the electric
light from the darkness, as in breaking a window they set
the electric apparatus to work. Before the armed assis-
tants could get down the knights of the jemmy had fled.

Manchester and Liverpool are quite satisfied with the
recent development of better trade. From numerous other
reports from various places the North does not seem behind
in any way.

Natural Electric Batteries. — While we are disposed
to grumble at being obliged to use 50 or 100 accumulator
cells in the employment of electric lighting, if we would be
accident-proof, it is just as well to remember the number
of electric elements that nature has decreed that certain
members of the finny tribe shall carry about with them
in order to be able to give an electric shock. (Some one
has suggested that they employ their powers for illuminat-
ing purposes.) It is estimated that a relative of our skate,
Bala batia, has no less than 20,000 electric elements ; but
Torpedo gigantea has about a level 1,000,000.

Messrs Patik, Philippe, and Co.'s New Factory. — In
October last the process of overbuilding the old factory of
the above firm at Geneva was commenced, and has been
pushed along with such rapidity as to be now complete,
and the old one a thing of the past. The two facades are
constructed of stone, the front being occupied by offices
and stores ; three floors are devoted to manufacturing.

"The Oldest Set of Silver Chessmen Known." —
Collectors and admirers of old silver should see the fine
old set of silver chessmen exhibited by Messrs. Barnet
Bros., High Holborn, which, although we might feel
disposed to post-date a little, are nevertheless a very fine
set of their sort. This extensive and extending firm have
galleries crowded with many fine articles of virtu well
worthy of a visit.

206

THE WATCHMAKER, JEWELER AND SILVERSMITH.

[Aprtl 1, 1S92.

(&GLye,\\G.

Administration Order.
Cawson, William Henry, Watchmaker, 11, Woodville Terrace,
Breek Road, Liverpool, £45 12s. 3d. Eight creditors.
Feb. 17. No. 1.

Shearing, Samuel, Watchmaker, 40, Broad Street, Bath.
£88 17s. 3d. Five creditors. Feb. 25. No 4.

Bankruptcy Record.

Bkitton", John James, Watchmaker and Jeweler,
Street, South Stockton. Receiving Order: Feb
Meeting : Mar. 28. Public Examination : Mar.

List of Creditors —

Cohen, Israel ...
Joseph, B. H., and Co.
Sharpe and Oreen
Foster, John and Thomas
Bunn and Dick ...
Rowntree, B. Mrs.
Hutton and Sons
Fully Secured Creditor

... Birmingham

. . . Manchester

Newcastle

North Stockton

Sheffield

84, George
. 24. First
23.

£ s. d.

15 12 8

14 1H 7

17 16 2

10 0 0

21 0 0

10 0 0

11 14 1
460 0 0

Colyer, Allen, Watch, Clockmaker, and Jeweler, Witham.
Receiving Order and Adjudication : Feb. 18. First Meeting :
Mar. 9. Public Examination : Shirehall, Chelmsford,
April 6.

List of Creditors —

Beanford, — ... ... ... ... London

Holmes, W. H. ... ... ... Birmingham

Ayers, E ... ... ... Southport

Groves, W. H Witham

Total Estimated Amount — £164 4s. 7d.
Fully Secured Creditors.
Dennis. M. H. ... ... ... ... Brighton

Stevens and Bawtree ... ... ... Witham

Total Estimated Amount— £'385 2s. lid.
Partly Secured Creditors.
Conwav and Co. ... ... ... London

£
19
18

27
22

374 10
10 12

24 10 0

Furtwrangler, Francis Adolph, Watchmaker and Jeweler, 24,
Green Street, Neath, Glamorgan. Receiving Order :
Mar. 11.

Peacock, Arthur James (trading as James Peacock) Silversmith
and jeweler, 42 and 64, New Oxford Street. Receiving
Order and Adjudication : Mar. 2.

Seeley, George Henry, Jeweler, 25, Bridge Street, Llangollen,
Denbigh. Receiving Order and Adjudication : Feb. 15.
First Meeting : Mar. 2. Public Examination : Mar. 8.

Sherwin, Julius Henry, Watchmaker and Jeweler, 7, Bank
Buildings, Crouch, Hill late 94, High Street, Barnet.
Receiving Order and Adjudication : Mar. 1. First Meet-
ing : Mar. 18. Public Examination : 34, Lincoln's-inn-
fields, April 5.

List of Creditors —

Davenport and Co.
Nordinann, J. ...
Perrier, M. A. ...
Fully Secured Creditor

London

£ s.

125 0

30 10

23 10

85 0

Williams, William Courtney Page (trading as Wordley and Com-
pany), Goldsmith and Jeweler, 56, Lord Street, Liverpool,
and Rushmoor, Penkett Road, Liscard. Receiving Order :
March 11.

Woods. Oliver Ernest, Watchmaker, 21, New Road, Shoreham.
Lint of Creditors —

Evans and Brown Birmingham

Jones. W. P>ristol

Williams, — Prescott

Collins. M Southwick

Total Estimated Debts— £'491 2s. lOd.

370
10
19
80

Deeds of Arrangement.
Peel, Gabriel Matilda (widow), Jeweler, 24 and 25, Bishopsgate
Street Within, London, and 26, Wickham Road, Brockley,
S.E. Trustees : Frederick W. Troup, Hatton Garden, E.C.,
Manufacturing Jeweler, and others. Dated Feb. 23 ; filed
Feb. 24 ; unsecured liabilities, £12,125 6s. 6d. ; estimated
net assets £10, 500.

Hicks, George, Jeweler, 7a, Mare Fair, Northampton. Trustee :
William P. Hannen, Abington Street, Northampton. Dated
Mar. 9; filed Mar. 11; unsecured liabilities, £358 12s. 9d. ;
estimated net assets, £180 0s. Od.

Lewis Joseph, Watchmaker and Jeweler, 32, Western Road,
Hove, Brighton. Trustee : James Spyer, 9, Gracechurch
Street, E.C., accountant, with a committee of inspection.
Deed of assignment and inspectorship with a view to pay-
ment of a composition of 12s. 6d. in the £', payable by
ten equal instalments at 3 months from date hereof and
6, 9, 12, 15, 18, 21, 24, 27, and 30 months from July 1,
1892. Dated Feb. 29 ; filed Mar. 4 ; unsecured liabilities,
£1,933 7s. ; estimated net assets, £1,800.

List of Creditors —

Faraday and Davey
Smith, John, and Sons
Jacobs and Co. ...

Favell, R., and Co

Brockwell and Co

Saunders and Shepherd
Holland, Aldwinckle, and Slater
Bendon, George and Co.
Boulstridge, E.
Grinsell, John, and Sons
Mordan, S., and Co. ...
Pringle, B., and Co.
Vine and Thompson ...
Troup and Sons
Blankensee, S., and Sons
Turnbull Bros. ...
Joseph, B. H., and Co.

Mott, T. L

Marks, J.

Hutton, W., and Son
Harrison, W. W., and Co.
Shaw and Fisher

London

104

127

»)

))

»)

656

Birmingham

Brighton

Sheffield

118

Maule, James, Watch, Clockmaker, and Jeweler, New Post
Office Buildings, Swadford Street, Skipton. Trustee : Harry
L. Price, 79, Mosley Street, Manchester, Accountant.
Secured creditors £216 10s. Dated Mar. 7 ; filed Mar. 12 ;
unsecured liabilities, £441 15s. lid. ; estimated net assets,
£427 4s. 7d.

Richardson, Robert, Watchmaker and Jeweler, 7, Sussex
Street, Middlesbrough. Trustees ; Jacob Jacobs, Victoria
Street, Birmingham, Wholesale Jeweler, and another.
Dated Mar. 9 ; filed Mar. 15 ; unsecured liabilities,
£3,021 17s. 9d. ; estimated net assets, £1,000.

Stephens, George, Watchmaker and Jeweler, 8, Tavistock
Street, Devonport. Trustee : Frederick William Dawe,
Plymouth, C.A. Deed of arrangement with a view to pay-
ment of a composition of 10s. in the £', debtor covenant-
ing to pay to trustee £1 weekly, commencing Mar. 12, 1892,
secured by assignment until default, trustee to divide same
every six months. Dated Mar. 9 ; riled Mar. 10 ; unsecured
liabilities, £194 18s. Id. ; estimated net assets, £140.

List of Creditors —

Cooper and C(
Mott, T. L.
BarneU, B.
Stephens, R.
Truscott, W.

£ s. d.

London 51 12 1

Birmingham 26 16 6

15 4 9

Cam Brea 64 0 0

Devonport 12 0 0

Williams, Thomas, Jeweler, 8, Wilson Street and High Church
Street, Workington. Trustee : Thomas W. Johnson, John
Street, Workington, Auctioneer and Estage Agent. Secured
creditors, £150. Dated Feb. 24 ; filed Feb. 26; unsecured
liabilities, £938 9s. 7d. ; estimated net assets, £350.

April 1, 1892.]

THE WATCHMAKER, JEWELER AND SILVERSMITH.

207

List of Creditors —

Harris, Henry, and Co.
Cohen, Isaac, and Son
Brockington Bros.
Griffiths and Son
Hines, Richard, and Sons
Cohett and Co.
Abraham and Co.

\YolffeBros

"Williams, F., and Co.
Williams, Mrs. A.

£ s. d.

Birmingham 20 0 0

210 0 0

100 0 0

50 0 0

16 0 0

Bradford 20 0 0

Glasgow 18 0 0

Prescot 13 0 0

Workington 407 0 0

||ote Worthy,

Notices to Creditors.

Keyzor, George Benjamin, Clock Manufacturer, 39, Hatton
Garden, London, E.C. Dividend of 2s. 9|d. at the Official
Receiver's, Carey Street, W.C.

Marsh, Charles Henry Cronnvell, Watchmaker and Jeweler, 8,
Belgrave Road, and 2, Fivepost Lane, Dover. Dividend of
2s. at E. P. Wilson's, 11, Old Jewry Chambers, E.G., C.A.,
Feb. 22.

Morgenstern, Jacob, Jeweler, High Street, Tenby, Pembroke.
Proofs by Mar. 2. Trustee : Official Receiver, Car-
marthen.

Rosenberg, Esther, Jeweler, 162, St. Paul's Road, Canonbury.
Proofs by Mar. 28. Trustee: A. Edwards, 14, Bennett's
Hill, Birmingham.

Dissolution of Partnerships.

Abrahams, S., and Sons, Jewelers, Houndsditch, Jan. 1. Debts
by Joseph Abrahams, who continues under the same style.

Appleby, A., and Company, Manufacturing Jewelers, 124, Vyse
Street, Birmingham. Dec. 31, 1891. Debts by Alfred
Appleby, who continues under the same style.

Defrece and Asher, Dealers in Jewelry and Clocks, 49, Upper
Street, Islington. Feb. 26. Debts by John Defrece.

Dollond and Company, Opticians, 1, Ludgate Hill. June 25,
1891. As regards John Richard Chant. Debts by Tyson
Crawford, who continues at 35, Ludgate Hill, under the
same style.

Hartsilver Brothers and Company, Watch Importers, 95,
Hatton Garden, London, E.C. Jan. 20.

Lamont and Boyd, "Wholesale Jewelers, 49, Jamaica Street,
Glasgow. Nov. 19, 1891. By death of James Lamont.
Debts by James Young Boyd, who continues under the
same style.

Simpson and Son, "Watch and Clock Makers, Princess Street,
Wolverhampton. March 5. Debts by Henry Griffith
Simpson, who continues.

Tilsley and Company, Jewelers and Watchmakers, 24, Nether-
thorpe Place, Sheffield. Jan. 13. Tom Pearson continues.

2,550.

2,909.
2,893.

2,988.
3,370.
3,744.
3,700.

APPLICATIONS FOR PATENTS.

"Improvements in clocks," W. P. Thompson and
Company, Manchester, Liverpool, and London (com-
municated by L. Gatta, Italy), 9ih Feb, 1892.

" Gauge for re-fitting watch and clock glasses," W.
Paterson, Glasgow, 15th Feb, 1892.

-" Improvements in means for stopping clocks, watches,
and the like for registering the time of arrival of birds
in flying matches," G. Warner, London, 13th Feb.,
1892."

-"Improvements in eye-glasses," B. E. Gregory, Liver-
pool, 15th Feb., 1892.

-" Improvements in and relating to eye-glasses." T.
Mien, Glasgow, 20th Feb., 1892.

-" An improved pendant for watches." F. Hutchins,
London, 26th Feb., 1892.

" Spectacle eve-shields." A. D. Warren, London, 25tb
Feb., 1892.

The weakest spoke in the wheel always creaks first, and
if there is one particular part of a watch over which there
has been more patents than another it is assuredly the
bow and pendant. Many of these are far too complicated
to be useful, and others only introduce elements of greater
weakness. That a bow ought to be " pivoted " in, all seem
to admit, but in probably every invention the whole of the
strain and friction is thrown upon this small head. This,

however, seems to us to have been entirely overcome in the
patent adopted by Messrs. Staufi'er Son & Co. for their
horological prodigy, about which we thought we had heard
the last, so far as additions at the price are concerned. To
outward appearance this pendant is in every respect similar
to any other good keyless watch as seen above. But shown
in section, we see that it snaps firmly into the pendant in
a little different manner from usual, so that the whole of it
can turn backwards and forwards and still present the
maximum friction surface, under which circumstances it is
better qualified to stand resistance than a common type.
But within this pendant there is a slotted sleeve into which
the grooved ends of the bow work, from which it is im-
possible to dislodge them. It will thus be seen that that
part of the pendant which constitutes the ' ' safety ' ' is only
brought in use when the other part fails.

Sn anc[ @ut tfpe d>ourf,&.

More Window Smashing. — At the Thames Police Court,
on March 2nd, Andrew Sullivan, an old offender, was com-
mitted for trial for breaking the window of William
Jenkins, jeweler, 142, St. George's Street, E., on the 25th
February. Prosecutor's daughter, upon running to the door,
saw the prisoner pulling at the iron bars. From her
description, Detective-sergeant Smith apprehended the
prisoner, who was identified by her.

Counter- Claims. — At Cheltenham County Court, Corne-
lius Smith, timber merchant, &c, claimed 16s. for a load
of coal, and defendant, James Smith, jeweler, counter-
claimed for £2 15s., the value of a clock supplied. Defen-
dant admitted the claim, and with reference to the counter-
claim, said the clock was taken to the plaintiff's premises
shortly after he (defendant) filed his petition in bankruptcy,
in 1887, plaintiff being a creditor under the bankruptcy.
Plaintiff admitted he had the clock, but said it was received
in satisfaction of an old debt, not provided for in the
bankruptcy. His Honor said it was a question whether
both plaintiff and defendant had not committed an offence
against the Bankruptcy Act. The clock belonged to the
trustee in defendant's bankruptcy. Judgment was given
for plaintiff for 16s. on the claim, and judgment for
defendant on the counterclaim, the clock either to be
returned within a week, or plaintiff to pay £2, its value, to
the defendant.

A Dishonest Partner. — Nathaniel de Lange, 24, watch-
maker, was indicted at the London County Sessions on
Saturday for having stolen twenty watches and other
articles, value £36 10s., and the sum of £12 6s., the goods
and moneys of his co-partnership with Frederick Henry

•JOS

THE WATCHMAKER, JEWELER AND SILVERSMITH.

[April 1, 1892.

Gapp, a printer, of Walthamstow. The prosecutor entered
into partnership with the prisoner as a watchmaker and
jeweler, three years since. A shop was taken at 26-4 Grays-
inn Road, the prosecutor's brother, Charles Gapp, lending
him t57 to purchase some stock and furniture. The
prisoner stole the goods and moneys in question, and was
arrested at Hamburg when boarding a steamer bound for
the United States. He was sentenced to twelva months'
hard labor.

li,i.i'.(;\i. Pawning. — At Stirling, on February 29th,
Robert Martin Kilsyth pleaded guilty to the theft of twelve
watches and half-a-crown of money from various parties,
at different dates between December and February last.
Accused was in business on his own account, and being
in financial trouble, pawned the watches he had got to
repair. The Sheriff passed sentence of six months' im-
prisonment.

A Ci'Riors Case. — At Aberdare County-court, on March
9th, Harris Barnett, pawnbroker, Mountain Ash, sued Mr.
George Abraham, manager of the National Bank of Wales,
for £50, being the value of two gold Avatches, a gold albert
chain, and other jewelry alleged to have been purchased.
— Plaintiff's version was that in 1886 the goods were sold,
and a settlement had been repeatedly applied for. — In
cross examination he admitted that from 1886 until Feb-
ruary, 1892, there had constantly been an adverse balance
against him at the bank, and a month ago he was served
with a writ for £67. On February 25 he paid the debt
and costs, and the same day sued defendant and the bank
jointly for £66 5s., the value of the jewelry plus interest.
There was no suggestion that the articles were deposited
as security. After consulting a solicitor the claim against
the bank was withdrawn, as he considered the company
were not indebted. Upon paying his balance there was a
tender of the jewlry by the bank's solicitors, but it was
refused. It was never stated to him that the articles were
held as collateral security. — Mr. Abraham swore that the
jewelry was first given him for the purpose of endeavour-
ing to find a purchaser, and, failing to do so, he retained
it on behalf of the bank. The chain he had worn contin-
uously ever since, and one of the watches on several
occasions. Pressure was brought upon Barnett to close his
account, and when this had been accomplished be (the
defendant) offered to buy the chain and foreign coin at a
valuation.— Mr. J. J. Thomas, jeweler, having giving
evidence of value, his Honor said that, after the admis-
sions made, he must assent to the proposition that unless
there had been a sale Mr. Abraham had no right to use
the articles, and consequently it became a question of
amount only. Judgment would be for £30 and costs.

Dismissal of Appeal. — The appeal in the case of Scott
v. Mercantile Accident Assurance Company has been dis-
missed with costs.

Curious Partnership Case. — In the Queen's Bench, Mr.
Justice Smith gave judgment in the partnership case of
Hyburg & Co. v. Handelaur. The facts of this case were
these. In 1889 the plaintiffs were owners of a gold
enamelled snuff-box, which was said to be worth £130, and
they afterwards sold a half share in the box to Mr. Fran ken -
beim, part of the agreement being that the plaintiffs should
retain possession of the box. The next thing was that the
Plaintiffs handed the box to Frankenheim for sale at
Christie and Manson's. The sale did not come off, and
Frankenheim pledged bis moiety of the box for a debt due
to the defendant. The Plaintiffs now sued to recover from
the defendant half the value of the box, or the return of
the box with damages for its detention. The case was
tried before his Lordship some time ago, and the matter
now came on for further consideration. Mr. Justice
Smith, without hearing counsel for the defendant, held
that a part owner of a chattel could not maintain an
action against the person in whose possession that chattel
was, unless he could also maintain an action against his

part owner, because the third person could only stand in
the shoes of the part owner. The Plaintiff could not
succeed without first paying off the undivided moiety in
the box which was held by the defendant. He could not
maintain trover without having first satisfied that
part of the claim which belonged to his co-owner.
Judgment was given for the defendant with costs, but
execution was stayed.

A Cool Thief. — Recently Eliza Cook, 26, and Mary
Ann Fenn, 25, entered the shop of James Jones, Jeweler,
Westminster Bridge Road together ; Carter picked out a
pair of earrings, put them in her ears, and walked out of
the shop, and for a time got away, leaving the other
prisoner there. They were both given into custody. Fenn
declared that she was innocent. The jury took this view
of the case, and acquitted her. The other prisoner, against
whom there were previous convictions for felony, was
sentenced to six months' hard labor.

A Brave Officer Rewarded. — Early in January Police-
constable Chrystal, 267 V, observed five men loitering
about a pawnbroker's shop in Newington Butts, and
watching until close upon four o'clock, he saw them enter a
passage and heard a door burst open. Sounding his
whistle the officer dashed into the passage and seized one
of the men, Avho was prizing the door of the pawnbroker's
shop open with a "jemmy." The other men made off,
and a struggle ensued for the possession of the instrument.
The accused, who gave the name of John Rhodes, was
indicted at the London Sessions and pleaded guilty. Sir
Peter Edlin sentenced the prisoner to twelve months' hard
labor, and in commending Chrystal for his courage
awarded him £2.

LETTERS TO THE EDITOR.

To the Editor of The Watchmaker, Jeweler and
Silversmith.

Dear Sir, — I esteemed the appreciative tone of your
remarks upon my paper at the Society of Arts on
" Caskets." There is one remark, however, as to the
weight of the cherubim on the first sacred casket recorded,
which perhaps arises from a misconception. They are
specially stated to be of beaten work. A visit to the gold
room of the British Museum will enable the reader to see
much ancient work, all beaten out in thin plates, and made
as lightly as possible for the size. This would be a very
convenient weight for carrying ; and it must be recollected
that the supply of gold was limited in those early days.
I have no authority for saying the poles were thin, but the
drawing from Champollion, which I will send you, shows
them as very graceful and light. Of course I speak of
artistic achievement as comparative ; but as to the oblong
pyxis or jewel box of the Greeks, the vases, also in the
Museum, on which they are figured, show them always
oblong, and sometimes a thicker proportion than 2J by 1^,
which is in itself a pleasing ratio. The only instances I
know to the contrary in the early period are — one with a
pent-house roof, looking like a curious prophecy of the
" chasse " of the Middle Ages; the other presenting a
remarkable similarity to the Saracenic caskets to which I
called attention. We may soon be coming to Solomon's
opinion, that " there is nothing new under the sun." —
Yours faithfully,

J. William Tonks.

[We are extremely pleased Mr. Tonks has accepted our
remarks in the spirit in which they were given. We still
maintain that, " had the esteemed lecturer applied the same
historic criticism to his prototype, he would not have used
the older assertions unqualified" anymore than modern
Dutch, German, or English critics have been able to do.
The text carefully sets forth that the cherubim were to be

r April 1, 1892.

THE WATCHMAKER, JEWELER AND SILVERSMITH.

xxi

^0o-q£u^l^A^^

THE WHITEST ALL'OY
INVENTED ..

Critics on JUbo Jsilber.

" The slloy registered under the name of ' ALBO
Silver," is peculiarly suitable for the manufacture
of Chains end Jewellery i it has the whiteness of
grain silver, without a tinge of the yellow or the
lead y colour gener aUy characteristic of alloy s of this
1-ind. Indeed, so highly was it reported on at the
British Association Exhibition by the authorities
of Mason Colli ge, that at their request samples in
ingot and in a manufactured state -were perma-
nently deposited in the museum of that institu-
tion."— Tile Watchmaker, Jeweller and Stive' smith.

N. C. READING & Co.,

186, 187, Warstone Lane,

Silver S; Qold Plated Chains

Proprietors and Sole Manufacturers oj
t/ie Celebrated JieyUtercd

"ALBO SILVER"

Chains & Jewellery,

i The \!(/r\itest Alley indented.
As durable in wear as fine Silver.

Regist'd "WARSTONE BEST"
Gold Cased Chains.

Warranted positively to resist Acids.

MIDGET. LADIES' ALBERTS.

COMPASS CHARMS, SEALS, AND LOCKETS.

N. C. R.'s goods can be purchased through all

respectable Wholesale houses.

®^^S^^£%L^

AS DURABLE IN WEAR
AS FINE SILVER

Critics on JUbn j^ilbcr.

The Jeweller and Metalworker says : — " Without
wishing to disparage the manufactures of several
well-known houses, which are excellent in their
way, we must admit that ' Albo Silver ' is a
metal which, by reason of i*s pure whiteness and
freedom from any leaden or brassy tints, holds the
foremost position among white metals. It is made
up into various articles of Jewellery, such as
ladies' and gents' chains, seals, lockets, vesta
boxes. &c. E very article bear s a registered parch-
ment label, and all swivels are marked N.C.H.Co.
We can safely recommend our country and
colonial friends to order through their facto
goods bearing these marks and labels."

lJ^»S>#t

SSAYERS. liEFIMS, AID

No. 2 & 3, ST. PAUL'S SQUARE, BIRMINGHAM,

EALERS IN PLIM,

FINE GOLD IN SHEET OR GRAIN; FINE SILVER IN SHEET, GRAIN, OR INGOT;

STERLING SILVER IN INGOTS OR SHEET; FINE AND STERLING WIRES,

ANY SIZES AND PATTERNS.

Patent Watch Pendants, Blanks, Stampings, Beads, &c.

SILVER SOLDERS, ALL QUALITIES ; PURE COPPER FOR ALLOYS.

GOLD, SILVER, AHD PARTING B4RS BOUGHT BY ASSAY.

The Full Market Value given for Old Gold, Silver, Lace, Watch Cases ;

ALSO

Jewellers', Dentists' Sweeps, Polishings, and Photographers' Waste.

Remittances forwarded and prompt attention paid to Parcels
received from the Country,

BIRMINGHAM

PRICE Z.IST OSJ APPHCATIOM.

SAMUEL
IB, FredericR: Street,

Manufacturer of the Patent Combination
Match Box, Sovereign
Purse, Stamp Holder,
Pencil and Toothpick.

CAN BE HAD THROUGH

M. LEVI,

BIRIMNGflHin.

Also Manufacturer of all descriptions of Electro-
Plated Match Boxes,
Sovereign Purses, Ink
Stands, and other Fancy
Articles.

OLESALE HOUSE.

12, 13, 14, 15, & 24, ST. JOHN'S LANE, CLERKENWELL, LONDON,

importers anb &eneva£ ^factors.

Clocks, Watches, Gold and Silver Jewellery. All kinds of Fancy Goods. Watch and Clockmakers' Materials.

Watch Glasses, Main Springs, Hands, Watch and Clock Oil; Paste, Steel and Jet Brooches and Earrings; Silk, Horn,

Vulcanite, Steel and Black Bead Alberts; Spectacles, Eye- Glasses, Reading Glasses; Table Cutlery.

THE MANUFACTURERS' WHOLESALE HOUSE FOR—

E. P. Tea Seta, Salad Bowls, Liqueur Frames, Cruets, Sugars,
Inkstands, Biscuits, Prize Cups, Nickel Silver and E. P.

Walton'* Specialities, Jones' Castle Links, Collapsible

Drinking Cup, Mexican Silver Alberts.

N. C. Reading's Albo-Silver Chains and Jewellery, Birch'i Keys. Dorcas

Thimbles, the Gripper Thimble. Barrett's Coin Mounts. All other

Coin Mounts. Progress Screws. British United Clocks

Spoons and Forks, Fish Eaters, Dessert Sets, Fish Carvers
BROOCHES, EARRINGS, STUDS, SPECTACLES, JEWELLERY, ETC.

HAVING NO TRAVELERS WE INVITE YOU TO CALL OR SEND AND COMPARE OUR PRICE*"

209

THE WATCHMAKER, JEWELER AND SILVERSMITH.

[Apbil 1, 1892.

made not in thin plates at all, but beaten out on one piece
(which to our mind conveys the idea of a primary casting
of some sort). That the narrator considered they were
not thin plates is evinced by the details given about covering
them ap with cloths, badger-skins, etc. (pictures show the
covering hanging down a yard or more on each side), so
that they must necessarily have been strong to have
withstood this usage. All biblical artists that I remember
make the cherubim as statuettes either kneeling or standing
with upturned wings. We are not sufficiently versed in
angelic morphology to be able to say if they are right, but we
think a census would show it to be the usually received
notion. If the impressions which have been conveyed to these
artists are correct, we have nothing to withdraw. When,
however, Mr. Tonks begins to make his ark fit in with the
circumstances of the case, and talks about the limited
supply of gold, he begins to apply that very historic criti-
cism, which, if pushed a little further, would have
necessitated the qualification to which we referred. Of
course everyone has an idea of what " pennyless " slaves,
dying from brick-making, and raking the fields for straw,
were the Jews ; even the chroniclers saw this, and thought
it no sin to make them borrow jewelry from the Egyptians,
on the eve of their departure ; and we are told that when
Aaron required the gold for the calf they broke off their
earrings, and melted them, all of which was subsequently
lost ; as Moses ground it to dust and strewed it upon the
water, and made the people drink it. It is this limited
supply of gold that necessitates us qualifying these state-
ments about the furniture of the tabernacle down to the
dishes and covers, bowls and spoons, being all made out
of pure gold, and one side of the tabernacle itself, doors
and even floors cverlayed with it. With regard to the
Greek ratios we shall be happy to chronicle our future
observations, which will be interesting alike to ourselves
and Mr. Tonks. Meanwhile we hope to be delighted
and profited by the results of his labors. — Ed.]

WATCH REPAIRERS' CERTIFICATES.

Sie, — In the last number of your journal I notice a curious
letter signed by " Pivoters " requesting to be informed of the
whereabouts of the " Horological Institute " and the condi-
tions upon which the Repairers' Certificates now granted by
this society can be obtained. Following this letter, I send
you the whole of the details regarding the examinations,*
and I have no doubt you will, though rather long, give
them room in your next issue, for the benefit of pivoters
and others whom the Horological Journal may not reach.
It is some satisfaction to realise that this group of back-
ward gentlemen are awakening to the necessity of
more knowledge, and have the unusual modesty to style
themselves "benighted duffers." I doubt whether they
are entitled to sympathy or reproach for the lamentable
want of trade knowledge to which they confess. For the
credit of the North and their own interests I hope this
uncertainty will be removed at the earliest moment by
each qualifying for the coveted mark of distinction.
With these remarks I am led to make others on the
unquestionable advantage of these certificates, by the
issue of which the Horological Society is doing good
work ; over those granted by the City Guilds, it is almost
needless to point out they are much more value as an indi-
cation of practical ability. The Repairers' Certificate
exacts evidence of practical knowledge and skill ; that of
the City Guilds requires but an ordinary knowledge of book-
learning and calculations, and may without much difficulty
be obtained without practical experience. Nevertheless, I
see these certificates in watchmakers' windows — doubtless
exposed with the object of inducing the public to believe
they testify to the worth of the possessor as a workman —
and in fairness to the public I think should be discon-
tinued, or an arrangement made whereby the Theory Certi-

ficate be awarded only after the candidate possesses that
for practical ability, and which the Horological Society now
offers. Regretting encroaching upon your valuable space
to this extent, I am, Sir, yours truly,

" Certificate."
* British Horolooical Institute,

Northampton Square, London, E.G.
Repairers' Certificates. — Arrangements are now com-
pleted for issuing certificates to watch and clock repairers
who satisfy the examiners of their proficiency. All prac-
tical work executed and questions answered by applicants
will be examined at the Horological Institute. The
ordinary certificate for watch repairing will be granted to
the applicant who satisfies the council that he has a fair
knowledge of depths, the verge, horizontal and lever
escapements, and keyless work. For the first-class certi-
ficate there will be required, in addition, evidence of the
applicant's ability to time and adjust, and of his con-
versance with chronographs, repeaters, and other
complicated pieces. Repairers who desire to undergo
examination must send to the secretary of the Insti-
tute a fee of one guinea, together with the name
and address of some member of the Institute or
other responsible householder, who will undertake to
(1) receive the list of test questions ; (2) be present during
the period of two hours in which the applicant is writing
his answers ; (3) enclose the answers in an envelope, which
will be forwarded for the purpose, and return it within
forty-eight hours of the receipt by him of the questions,
etc. ; (4) forward the work to be examined to the Institute,
together with a declaration, made under oath or affirmation
before a Commissioner, that the manuscript and work are
to his knowledge wholly the production of the applicant.
At present examinations will be held three times a year.
The lists of pieces of work and of practical questions,
forming the trial task, will be sent out on the second
Tuesday in the months of January, May, and September ;
but the name and address of a supervisor, which the com-
mittee deem to be satisfactory, must have been received by
the secretary by the first day of the month in which the
papers are to be sent out. All practical work executed for
the examination must reach the Institute by the second
Tuesday of the month following that in which the trial task
is received. It will be observed that though the practical
questions are to be answered at once, a month is allowed
for the production of the actual work. One half of the fee
will be returned in the event of no certificate being granted.
[We have never received so much correspondence over
any subject as this. As we cannot print it all, we publish
this letter, which embraces most of the relevant points
raised in connection with the subject. — Ed.]

TRADE CHARITIES.

Sir, — I should be very much obliged if you would be so
good as to furnish me with a list of all the charities and
societies connected with the various branches of the trade.
I have looked for many years through the journals more or
less connected with the trade, and have never seen any
account of them save just the notice of a meeting. I should
take this as a personal kindness on your part ; but, at the
same time, I think you ought to call attention of the
societies to their secluded policy, for it is certain that a
little money judiciously spent in advertising would more
than repay itself, and is the only means of making the
charities known. Old Subscriber.

[We have received two letters this month upon this
subject ; and for the benefit of " Old Subscriber " and the
trade at large we repeat, as we have often done before —
we are always pleased to advertise all charities absolutely
free. All we ask is that they will send us their matter and
notify us of their meetings. We shall see if they think it
worth their while to do this when specially asked by would-
be subscribers. — Ed.]

w«

^atclpi^akcr, ^cWclcr

^ilVcrsjryLt]}.

Edited by W. J. LEWIS ABBOTT, F.G.S.

Entered at Stationers' Hall.]

[Registered for Transmission Abroad.

Vol. XVII.— No. 11.]

MAY 2, 1892.

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@NyY/eigfH'L anc| iJcL&fHion.

§OME few months ago, in the course of an
article on a kindred subject, we referred
incidentally to the matter of Weight and
Fashion.* We then spoke in unmistakable
terms of our distrust of it as a satisfactory
method of pricing goods, giving an emphatic
warning against its continued use in the following words :
" The tendency to adopt this method is largely on the
increase, and it will soon prove itself one of the most
mischievous elements that the trade has ever had to deal
with. It is simply a fact that no satisfactory — that is,
fairly profitable, business can possibly be carried on at all
on these lines."

Since writing the above the increase which we then
foretold has more than realised our expectations. On every
hand this style of pricing has extended, and now, no
matter what class of goods one may be selling, the
universal demand is to buy at weight and fashion. In
spite of this general adoption, however, our opinion of its
prejudicial effects on the trade has not altered, and we think
it advisable to again call the attention of each section of
the trade to its real tendency, and its more than probable
results. We say each section of the trade advisedly, as
this is no longer a matter resting between the maker and
the factor only. It has extended from the factor to the
shopkeeper, and from the shopkeeper to the purchasing
public, who, in buying their single articles of jewelry,
invariably ask the price per ounce or per carat.

There are two methods of using this Weight and Fashion
pricing in the trade. In one case the gold and workman-
ship are lumped together, and so much per ounce out and
out charged for the articles ; in the other case there is a
separate charge made per article to cover at once the cost of
making and the profit, while the gold is charged as a total
weight. The result is exactly the same in either case, the
different methods simply applying to different classes of
goods, so that we shall have no need to examine them
separately. Now to get an exact understanding of the bear-
ings of the subject before us, we must accept it as an axiom
that the one aim and object of business is to make profit.
Disguise the matter as we may in our intercourse with our
customers, there is no getting beyond this fact. Bearing
this in mind, let us look somewhat carefully at what is the
actual cost of any given article. The two prominent and
self-assertive items are the value of the raw material and
the wages paid to the workmen for making. And the idea
too often seems to be that these constitute alone the real

"\Y. J. and S., August, 1890, " Low Prices and Cut Profits.'

212

THE WATCHMAKER, JEWELER AND SILVERSMITH.

[May 2, 1892.

cost of the work. But a moment's thought convinces us
that there are a number of other (lead charges, usually
lumped as " the expenses of the business," of which
account must be taken before the actual cost is obtained.
For instance, in the shops there come wear and tear of
machinery and tools, gas, water, and engine power; then
follow the unproductive, but quite essential, salaries of the
distributive staff in warehouse and office; and lastly, we
must count rent and taxes, as well as common interest
on the capital invested. And our contention is that before
we arrive at the real cost of our goods, a certain percentage
of each and all of these charges must be added to every single
article that comes out of the workshop. Then to get a
just and remunerative selling price, we must add, over and
above all this, such a proportion of profit, pure and simple,
as the exigencies of the trade will permit. It may, possibly,
be well argued here that these very " exigencies " (i.e., com-
petition, and the usual relations of supply and demand)
will in the ordinary course of business settle all these little
difficulties for us without our going into such unnecessary
details. In practice possibly they will, and our object in
ventilating this question is not to prove the possibility of
selling above market price, but rather to warn our friends,
lest they be selling under a living price. Proceeding, how-
ever, we are forced to the conclusion that the only business-
like system of pricing and selling is that based on the facts
just specified. Consequently, we have to see as to how far
the Weight and Fashion method conforms to, or falls short
of, these requirements. And first we find that, as its name
implies, it embraces two elements only, viz., gold and
workmanship, all the other expenses of production as
before noted, as also profit, being merged in the one charge
for fashion. Again, to look at the subject from the other
side, if this one charge is sufficient to cover all expense
and also give a profit, this is all we require, and we might
leave the matter without further trouble. But in actual
fact, as we know too well, this charge is not sufficient,
and for this very reason we are forced to fully expose it.

First, as to the price at which the gold is invoiced.
This varies- a little with different firms and in different
classes of ware, but the usual rate is 66s. 6d. per ounce
for 18-ct., 57s. 6d. per ounce for 15-ct., and 35s. per
ounce for 9-ct. ; these quotations, of course, being
subject to a small cash discount. As illustrations of
extreme prices in gold, we may mention two cases which
have come under our own personal knowledge, of 9-ct.
goods being sold to a shopkeeper at 35s., and of the same
quality being sold to a factor at 33s. 6d. We mean, of
course, manufactured articles, and not the metal simply.
Now we are quite open to admit that at first sight these
figures do allow a slight margin of profit, as the actual
cost of the gold into the melting-pot is something less than
the above. But there are three other elements of cost
with which we have to deal after the alloy is ready for
melting. These are the expense of melting and re-
melting, firing and man's time, then rolling and slitting,
and lastly, waste. These matters add considerably to the
cost-value of every ounce of gold worked up, and any
calculation that omits these considerations is faulty, and
likely to lead to loss. The last named — waste— is of especial
importance. In the first place there is an inevitable loss
on every ounce of gold weighed out to the workmen, no
matter how thorough and careful one's system may be.
Then after the work is weighed in again by the mounter,
there is the loss by finishing — polishing, coloring, etc. —
so that, as every manufacturer knows well enough, the
finished weight of any article is considerably less than the
weight of gold actually absorbed by the making of it.
We do not forget that much of this waste is recoverable ;
but it is not all recovered, and that which is so is recovered
at a loss. And again, our contention is, that taking proper
consideration of these important items, the figures quoted

before represent barely the positive cost, of the gold to the
maker, and in selling at those prices he is simply giving
change for a sovereign.

The crucial question for each one to answer for himself
is: Is it a reasonable and businesslike arrangement for a
man to sell his gold for just what it costs him, or ought
he to get a percentage of profit upon it, as per our former
remarks? For our part, we contend that it is not "busi-
ness " at all thus to do, and no capitalist can hope to make
even a common interest on his money by these means, let
alone getting a fair return for the risk and worry of busi-
ness— for we must not forget that at the very best, and
with the safest houses, there is a risk in business. Imme-
diately we have parted with our goods on credit, no matter
to whom, there is more or less possibility that we shall
never get paid for them, and to insure a fair business
transaction, the price at which we sell must be based on
this possibility. In selling our gold at the rates mentioned
we are taking far more risk than a banker would take, with
vastly less than a banker's margin of profit. Or again, we
are simply becoming bullion dealers, minus the bullion
dealer's commission and without his prompt and certain
payments. As a matter of business, is it worth doing ?

So far for the gold ; now let us give a word or two on
the fashion. From the extreme variety of articles pro-
duced it is impossible for us to quote any typical "fashions,"
but we know well enough that in no one instance is the
amount large enough to give a profit on the weight of
metal in the goods. It is nothing more nor less than a
charge for workmanship and finish. Hence, however
satisfactorily it may represent these matters, it does not
affect our former reasoning, as it does not show a fair
business profit on the total cost of the goods. It there-
fore follows that the producer and seller is nothing better
than a workman to the buyer, as he is paid merely a wage
for the work done. By this system of business the manu-
facturer loses his position as an independent section of the
trade, and becomes reduced to that of a general outworker.
This position may do for the mushroom growth of
"garret men" or for the dissatisfied and ambitious day
worker ; but it will not do for the legitimate race of manu-
facturers, who have done so much in the past to make the
trade, and to uphold the quality and finish of the work.
Unless some more remunerative system of business is soon
again introduced, the whole scope of the jewelry trade as
a field for capitalists will be lost, and the manufacturer of
jewelry will be left to the uncultured mercies of a lot of
irresponsible outworkers. This would undoubtedly mean
ruin to every section of our trade, and it is in the hope
of arresting attention to this undesirable tendency that we
have thus pointedly referred to it.

^3*ES=

Amongst the recipients of the medals and funds of the
Geological Society this year was Mr. 0. A. Derby, of
Rio Janeiro. Mr. Derby has spent more time in the
studying the detail of the Brazilian diamond fields than
anyone, and was the first to point out Maw's wrong read-
ing of the rocks which were supposed to be the matrix of
the diamond, a subject in which he takes considerable
interest. Mr. Derby is an American by birth and educa-
tion, but being brought to the special notice of the late
Emperor, he was appointed director of the museum at Rio.
We are greatly indebted to him for information respecting
' ' historic stones ' ' from the fountain head, which we have
not yet published, as well as for information concerning
the diamond bearing districts of Brazil.

Sakdinia has for some time been yielding an immense
quantity of prehistoric bronzes ; analyses of them show
that the bronze of the statuettes is not, the same as that
employed for axes. The statuettes consist of 903 copper,
7-4 tin, 2-1 iron; the axes of 87-4 copper, 12 tin, 0-5 lead,
and traces of iron.

May 2, 1892.]

THE WATCHMAKER, JEWELER AND SILVERSMITH.

218

flotes /I bout Jou/17.

lfrLTHOUGH it would be very incorrect to assert that
«P trade was anything but quiet, it is acknowledged all
ML round that things have decidedly improved. Black
January will be remembered and referred to by many
in the future' as a record month of bad trade. The fine
weather before Easter had a remarkably stimulating effect
in many directions ; and it was a great pity that we should
have had so sudden and unexpected a visitation of arctic
climate when people were all desirous of spending money,
as it cannot be denied that it is the circulating of money

that constitutes trade.

* * *

However, with the return of the lovely spring weather
things are now brightening up, and the " Row " is be-
ginning to present a pretty fair picture of fashionable
London. Although there is displayed less actual jewelry
now than at one time, there are numerous applications of
the goldsmith's and silversmith's art paraded not seen

heretofore.

* * *
Opera-glasses are perhaps claiming more attention than

at any period in their history, since the addition of the
handle. I long ago pointed out this would be the case,
as soon as the necessity of the painful operation of holding
them up to the eye in the old - fashioned way was
obviated. The superlative results, too, arising from the
substitution of light aluminum for the denser metals is a
great advantage. Now that it can be so beautifully
enamelled, and the process being sufficiently expensive to
prevent its becoming common, it is likely to retain its hold
upon the " upper ten."

* * #

"With the increased use of these articles, it is nothing
more than one would expect that patents in connection with
them should be increasing proportionally. These may be
divided into two classes: nrst, those in which the handle is
detachable and useable with any ordinary glass, and the
other which manipulates the focussing. In the former
telescope handles are now very much to the front, the
major joint being of very elaborate design, sometimes of
enamelled or repousse aluminum, at others of gold. Some
even are of gold and gems. In most of the other class the
handles are solid, and the bottom of it can be turned to
focus at pleasure.

* # *

Up to the present in all I have seen both hands are
necessary for focussing, but it would be very easy to con-
struct them so that one finger could pass through the
handle and focus either up or down with the greatest of
ease ; or with the thumb and first finger of the hand in
which the handle is held.

* * *

In ail the silver and electro-plate houses decided
evidences are appearing not only of Spring, but that the
world is taking thought of seasonable summer articles.
Sugar and creams this year are almost invariably carrying
fruit dishes, so that this article, which formerly was neither
large or expensive, is now both imposing and costly.
Every few months, too, brings out some new styles of
decoration of china, and some of them are extremely

handsome.

* * #

It would appear that despite the intrinsic art merits of
any production, its success must be associated with some
kind of what either is, or does duty for, symbolism. Thus
Venice in London has made the idea of the gondolas
popular, and now these graceful objectsare reproduced in
soy-frames, inkstands, and numerous articles, the craft

being in art-china, in many instances very artistic-
ally colored. It is said these are taking very well, although
in outline they are not far removed from similar articles,
a In Queen Anne, with the reproductions of which we
have been familiar for a long time.

* * #

The alterations to the old premises of Sir John Bennett
are pushing towards completion, and the removal of the
scaffolding shows that while the crowd-attracting automata
will be pratically retained, the whole of the front will be,
architecturally, infinitely more imposing, with a loss of
what many were inclined to regard as common and tinselly.
The business will now be carried on in one shop,
Messrs. Eugene Rimmel, Limited, having taken the other.
* * *

Messrs. W. Hutton and Son are about vacating their
old premises at Thavies Inn, where they are so widely
known, and have taken the extensive showrooms formerly
occupied by Messrs. Maw and Son, Farringdon Road. They
will thus be only a few hundred yards from their old place,
as the new galleries are only just round the corner from
Charterhouse Street. The imposing building is under-
going extensive structural alterations, which will no doubt
result in magnificent showrooms.

# # *

Messes. Spink and Son of Gracechurch Street, at a very
opportune moment when they have been made so popular,
have taken the old business at 17, and 18, Piccadilly, W. as
a west-end representation of their old City establishment.

# * *

Proposed Public Clock for Salisbury. — Dr. Roberts,
an old and highly-respected citizen, having offered to erect
a public illuminated clock at Salisbury, it has been
decided that a tower shall be placed near Fisherton Bridge,
close to the Infirmary.

* # #

The "Hargreaves Jewels." — The pearls which tempted
Mrs. Osborn, together with another of larger dimensions,
have been sold by Messrs. Christie and Manson. They
were sold in two lots, the whole realising a little over
a thousand pounds.

TV" *A* *7S*

Messrs. Elkington and Co., of Manchester, recently
supplied the silver tea and coffee service presented with an
illuminated address to Mr. Josh Dickinson, late Her
Majesty's Chief Inspector of Mines.

At the last chronometric concourse of Geneva (1891)
the three first rewards were obtained by chronometers
supplied with hair springs manufactured by Dufaux, whose
productions in palladium are well known. Mr. H.
Edwards, Coventry, is Dufaux's agent in this country.

Amongst the most expensive fads that have arisen is one
that is laying hold in some quarters with American belles
of having their slippers "tipped" with silver and even gold.
A leading firm patented the idea, and others are following
suit with various designs.

It is announced that several hundred clocks and metro -
logical instruments are to be set up in Berlin, worked from
the observatory ; the towers are to be employed for adver-
tisements, which it is thought will defray their cost.

The Inverness Improvements Committee are about to
have a public clock fixed at the east end of High Street.
Tenders have not yet been accepted.

Dr. John Evans, Pres. R.S., etc., the great antiquarian,
has been discoursing lately upon posy rings. On a pre-
vious occasion we made reference to the magnificent
display of these made at his residence, on the occasion
of the visit of one of the Societies, and we have no
hesitation in saying it is the finest private collection we
have ever seen.

THE WATCHMAKER, JEWELER AND SILVERSMITH.

[May 2, 1892.

©eterrruna.i'i^e (Sjemmofo

THE PLEOCHROISM OF GEMS.

By thk Editor.

( Continued from page 204.)

Vi liv some Gems are Axechroic.

OR the sake of clearness we may perhaps he

allowed to recapitulate a little, especially

three points. Firstly, Ave have seen that

when a ray of light passes into a gem it is

broken up into two parts, vibrating at right

angles to each other ; secondly, that light is

not transmitted with equal facility in all

directions ; and thirdly, that the hues exhibited by gems

are white, minus that part of it which is absorbed by the

individual stone.

Under these conditions we can readily imagine the
possibility of light being absorbed differently in different
directions. We can also imagine certain gems possessing
this axial absorption in various degrees, without invali-
dating anything that we have already noticed. We may
even proceed further, and suppose these properties to be
enjoyed to such a small extent as not to be visible, or only
so to assisted vision ; or to be so great as to absolutely
absorb all the rays which are vibrating in any one given

Fig. 8.

direction. Happily this latter state is not often enjoyed,
but the tourmaline is an example of it. If we take a slice
of tourmaline cut parallel to the principal axis (i.e., in the
direction of the prism) of, say, a dark green hue, viewed
singly it is perfectly transparent ; if we place another
similar piece over it the hue is only a little deepened, so
long as they remain parallel, as Fig. 7. Now if both the
rays were transmitted with equal facility in all directions
we might cross these gems without in any way interfering
with the color phenomena ; but such is not the case. If we
cross them as Fig. 8, perfect darkness ensues; thus substan-
tiating our hypothesis that all rays vibrating at right angles
to the optic axis (the ordinary ray) are absorbed, and only
those vibrating along, or parallel to the optic axis (the
extraordinary ray), are allowed to pass. When the second
tourmaline was added, with its axis of absorption in the
same direction, it made but very little difference, similar,
in fact, to increasing the volume of water through which a
ray is passing. When, however, the second tourmaline
was placed at right angles to the first, it then absorbed
the rest of the rays, and darkness ensued. When we come
to speak of the dichroscopy of the tourmaline we shall see
the remarkable part played by its great absorption, which
under certain conditions absorbs cne of the squares almost
entirely. So that when one views it through the dichro-
scope, instead of seeing two squares, we only see one.

It thus becomes evident that axechroism of gems, or
the phenomena of appearing of different hues when viewed
along, or through, various axes, or directions, is due to
the selective, absorptive power of the gem for refracting or
absorbing rays vibrating in different planes, analogous to

what we have been speaking of in connection with optic-
elasticity. We may sum up these phenomena as follows

Firstly, the selective absorptive power which gives rise to
what we call color in all non-crystalline gems, and those
which crystallize in the monometric system, is constant,
irrespective of the direction in which they are viewed.
They therefore appear the same hue in all directions. So that
if we had, say, a pink pebble which we thought to be a
spinel, but upon turning it round saw there was a con-
siderable amount (or even any trace) more absorption in
one direction than another, we should know in an instant
that it was not a spinel, as this gem crystallizes in the
monometric system, and therefore presents no axial varia-
tion of absorption.

Secondly, that, on the other hand, in anisotropic gems
the selective absorptive powers vary with direction ; and,
further, it is of different kinds and degrees.

Thirdly, in uniaxial gems the extremities will coincide
with maximum and minimum elasticity, we shall,
therefore, get two distinct axial colors, which vary
in intensity in different gems.

Triaxechroism.

In studying the trimetric, mono- and tri- clinic systems
of crystallography we saw that in no direction could we
obtain that all-sided symmetry presented in the dimetric
and hexagonal systems. We are thus prepared for further
complications, and our anticipations are fully realised
when we come to examine gems crystallizing in any of
these systems. In these we find that in all three direc-
tions the absorption is different, being very marked in some
gems. Axinite, for example, which may perhaps be a dark
green in one direction, a bluish hue in a second, and a
cinnamon in a third. In symmetrical planes, such as
those presented by the Trimetric system, the axes of
absorption are coincident with those of elasticity, but in
the Monoclinic it only coincides with the axis coinciding
with the axis of symmetry; whilst in the Triclinic, owing to
peculiarities into which we cannot enter here, it varies.
Different Kinds of Absorption.

Hitherto we have only considered the simpler kinds of
absorption, but unfortunately — or for the sake of our love
of the beautiful, I suppose we ought to say fortunately — it
does not end here. The various phenomena which most
concern us, and their relation to absorption, may be
tabulated as follows, when a ray of white light falls upon a

gem :-

A. — Pakt is Reelected.

1. The reflection may be regular, as somewhat like as from a mirror.

2. The reflection may be scattered, by which we see the object.

3. Under certain conditions part of the light may be polarized.

4. Under other conditions the whole of the light may be polarized.

5. Under certain conditions the reflected ray may be of the same hue

as the transmitted.

6. Under other conditions the reflected ray may be of a different

hue from the transmitted.

B. — Pakt is Absorbed.

7. The absorbed may be the compliment to the reflected.

S. The absorbed may be the compliment, to the transmitted.
9. The absorbed may be the compliment to both.

10. The absorbed may be the compliment to neither.

(J. — Pakt is Transmitted.

1 1 . The transmitted may be the compliment to the absorbed.

12. The transmitted may be the compliment to the reflected.

13. The transmitted may be the result of other alterations in its

passage through the gem.

Further, it may be considered that gems are alone in
being visible by light, which is both transmitted and re-
flected, for the light that leaves their surface has entered
more or less into and j/assed out of them again. In no case
are color phenomena the result of simple reflection from a
polished surface as from a highly polished mirror. In the
latter case the light is reflected at the surface without
entering, or even dividing, at the surface ; therefore, light
which leaves the surface of metals is not polarized.

May~2, 1892.]

THE WATCHMAKER, JEWELER AND SILVERSMITH.

21t

The Relation of the Transmitted to the Reflected

Ray.
Although in the majority of the gems light which is
transmitted through them is the same as that in which the
gem appears by reflection, there are instances where this
is not the case. The most pronounced example of this is the
Alexandrite, the structural peculiarities of which in their
entirety are too complex for thorough explanation here.
First, however, we notice that although a beautiful dark green
(say before cutting) when viewed by reflected light, held
up so as to allow the light to be transmitted through it,
instead of getting this same dark green, we get a compli-
mentary hue to it, viz., red (12). The same effect is
obtained by holding up a gold leaf to the light, when the
hue is no longer yellow but bright green, according to the
thinness of the leaf. If, however, we place the Alexan-
drite in the dichroscope we realise that there is not such an
equal division of the original ray as we might imagine, or as
in the case of the gold leaf ; and some of the green rays get
through, so that we get one square a modified dark green
and the other a red. Research in connection with this gem is
greatly needed, but it appears at present that phenomena are
emphasised by the thickness of the stone, as (viewed by white
light) in a cut stone a great part of the light is reflected
without suffering much alteration, and appears as a green,
while part of it which is reflected up through the gem is a
raspberry red, every intervening shade accordingly occurr-
ing. If, however, we employ a light, poor in certain rays,
such as artificial or night lights, we lose the green almost
entirely, and the gem appears of a red hue, the reason of
which we must leave till our next.

( To be continued. )

Sheffield fJotes.

(By our own Correspondent.)*

TT/HE Council of the School of Art have been fortunate
eJL® this year in securing the presence of Sir Philip
Cunliffe Owen at the Annual Conversazione just
held in the Mappin Art Galleries. The long-established
custom of bringing down someone who really has some-
thing to say by way of stimulating the study of Art in our
mids°t has invariably been appreciated by the students.
The director of the South Kensington Museum has the
additional advantage of a long and intimate association
with the Sheffield School, and students trained here.
This fact induced Dr. Sorby in the course of the evening
to describe Sir Philip, more Hibernico, as a " Sheffielder
who was not born in his native town." His reminiscences
of Mr. Young Mitchell, Godfrey Sykes, and the band of
ornamentists trained under them were extremely interest-
ing. " Godfrey Sykes," he said, " had left his lasting
monument in the decoration of South Kensington Museum,
a work which had since been duly appreciated in the
metropolis, and which had set an example that had been
followed ever since."

mR. JOHN YEOMANS COWLISHAW, president of
the School of Art, drew attention to the increased
facilities for usefulness possessed by the school in
consequence of the increased grant from the corporation.
The free studentships, of which there are twrnty, _ are
offered for competition among those youths of the artisan
class who are apprenticed, or who intend to become
apprenticed, to some staple trade of the town in which

• We must not be understood as endorsing all. or necessarily any. of the opinions
of our correspondent, who writes on his own responsibility.

a knowledge of design is necessary. The grants received
from South Kensington also enabled the council to
offer local scholarships, amounting to £52, to advanced
students between the ages of eighteen and thirty, renewable
annually for three or four years. It will thus be seen that
the town is doing its utmost to enable the silver trade, to
which' the bulk of the students belong, to hold its own in
the face of the keen competition from abroad now being
experienced.

^/TESSRS. WALKER and HALL, Howard Street, have
just learned that they have again been successful in
the Australian Colonies, having carried off four gold
medals at the Tasmanian Exhibition. For silver and
electro-plate the Australian market is a steadily growing
one, and not a few firms in the town depend at present
for anything of activity with which they are blessed to this
market alone. Although for the present, owing to the
general depression prevailing at the Antipodes, not much
is to be expected from Australia, yet our manufacturers are
assiduously cultivating the market, and confidently look
upon it as an ultimate set-off against the loss of the
American trade.

XT7HERE does not seem to be much prospect of an early
^Jfe improvement in the silver and electro-plate trades.
However much individual firms may boast of
exceptionally good orders, trade is on the whole decidedly
dull. One satisfactory feature in the present situation is
the relatively increased amount of Art'work turned out,
especially in silver. The competition among the leading
houses, severe as it undoubtedly is, does not so much take
the form of producing cheaper as of more artistically
designed work. Messrs. Mappin and Webb have been
fortunate in securing the order of a magnificent candelabra
and centre piece to the value of £1,000 for the officers'
mess of a crack regiment, and the same firm have just
supplied to the order of a foreign nobleman a travelling
and dressing bag valued at 350 guineas.

VTTHE challenge shield, promised some time ago for
®J® competition among the ambulance societies of the
town by Mr. H. L. Brown, the design for which
was described some months ago in these notes, has now
taken concrete form, and is being exhibited in the shop
window of Mr. Wm. Colver, Market Place. Unlike the
Bingham shield, described last month, the panels are
executed in raised chasing, instead of being engraved on
the flat. This is as it ought to be, as engraving, unless
when exceptionally well done, looks out of place on a work
of this character. In the ambulance shield, the groups
representing those Sheffield trades in connection with
which accidents most frequently happen, although not
manipulated exactly in the style of Godfrey Sykes, are
still above the average in point of design and execution.
In a general way it is to be regretted that donors of
challenge shields and cups do not more fully realise the
adage about doing a thing well that is worth doing at all.
It is all very well for the manufacturer who has correctly
enough estimated the artistic capacity of the British
Philistine — who, after all, is his principal customer — to
turn out goods accordingly. But a challenge cup or shield
is not intended for the market, and is presumably exhibited
as a work of Art of some sort. It is, however, notorious
that the best Art workmen, who are perfectly well-known
in the trade, are rarely employed on works of this kind.
Their terms may be high, and it may, moreover, seem like
casting pearls before swine to waste their work on the
average recipients of these trophies. Nevertheless, on
public grounds, one would like to see these works able to
bear a greater degree of genuine artistic criticism than the
majority of them are capable of doing.

•210

THE WATCHMAKER, JEWELER AND SILVERSMITH.

[May 2, 1892.

tl/HE Sheffield Goldsmiths' Company, a jewelry
-JL® Establishment which some two years ago took to
the business of the Late Mr. W. Brown, of High Street,
lias already outgrown its premises. The shop at the corner
oi York Street and High Street with its well-set-out and
electric-lighted windows is one of the most attractive in
the neighbourhood. The frontage to High Street, how-
ever, has been found insufficient, and it has now been
determined to extend it by taking in the adjoining shop.
This will materially increase the internal accommodation
besides enhancing the general effect from the outside.
Pending the completion of the alterations, the company
have taken temporary premises in the splendid pile of
buildings recently erected in Fargate, near the Albany
Hotel.

VT/HE incidental remark in the above paragraph to the
ij® effect that the Sheffield Goldsmiths' Company are
successors to the late Mr. William Brown reminds
me that the real genealogical successor to Mr. Brown is
once more forging to the front. In other words, a telling
advertisement in the local press informs me that Brown's
watches, which everybody is supposed to know to be the
best, are to be had at such a number in High Street.
This won't affect the Goldsmiths' Company, who are by this
time sufficiently well known by their own name ; but what
Mr. H. L. Brown down in Market Place thinks about it is
another matter. The battle of the Browns is probably
about to recommence to the great advantage of the
advertising columns of the Sheffield Press. Although, as a
matter of course, rural customers will walk into the wrong
shop, yet on the whole the rival Browns will no doubt
find themselves extremely useful to each other.

YT7HE shop accommodation in the centre of the town is
ej|fe gradually being increased. In Fargate the new
premises of Messrs. Leader and Sons will render
available two or three shops besides that part of the build-
ing required by the firm itself. Further on, the shops on
the ground floor of the Young Men's Christian Association
Buildings are nearly all occupied at good rents. Further
on still, the wilderness, which since the demolitions in con-
nection with the improvement scheme has practically cut
the business part of the town in two, shows signs of being
covered with buildings in the near future. At all events
large portions of it are now in course of being excavated,
and although for some time to come we may have to
tolerate Sanger's Circus and the hoardings of the bill-
posting company, yet, as the walls of the new Town Hall
begin to show themselves above ground, the remaining
lots are sure to go off.

fNFORTUNATELY saw-piercing may be regarded as
one of the comparatively lost arts of the silver-
smith's craft. Although one or two large firms
have to some extent revived it in some of their more
recent specialities, it is more as an adjunct to some
other style of ornamentation than as an independent
art. The saw-piercers trained under Mr. J. A. Rhodes,
although still doing what little there is done in their old
occupation, have all turned their attention to a less orna-
mental, but more remunerative branch of the same trade.
So remunerative is this new departure that I am specially
asked not to be more particular, The point for manufac-
turers to note is — that should there ever be a revival of the
demand for artistic saw-piercing, there are still plenty of
hands in Sheffield capable of supplying it.

(7T BEAUTIFUL stained glass window by Mayer, of

7%I Munich, has just been erected in the suburban parish

church of Heeley, in memory of Mr. Young Mitchell,

the well-remembered head master of the School of Art.

Bir/ryr^am jfot^.

(By our own Correspondent.)*

TT is not always satisfactory to be a prophet, and it is
m with anything but a sense of gratification that I have
•i. to record ^the fulfilment of my warning of last month.
I refer to the "after-Easter buying" by our factors,
which has this year proved the most serious disappoint-
ment that our manufacturers have ever had to put up with.
In many instances the wholesale travellers have not come
home at all for this holiday. In many more cases they
have gone away again without buying anything ; while
those who have looked at the makers' stocks have bought
with but a sparing hand. Consequently the manufacturers'
anticipated harvest has not been forthcoming, and several
of their bagmen have had to report a blank week, while
with nearly all of them just one or two parcels represents
the whole week's work.

fHIS "holiday buying," which years ago used to be a
recognised institution in our local trade, has for some
time past been gradually losing ground, and for the
future it is likely to linger as a tradition only, and
not as a fact. Certainly after the last fortnight's experience
the sorrowing and stock-laden manufacturers will not again
build their hopes upon it, Easter, too, next to Christmas,
used to be the very best occasion of the year, as, coinciding
with the Jewish festival, it called all the travellers, both
Jews and Gentiles, home together. The only epitaph I
can suggest is " Ichabod."

fNFORTUNATELY, on this occasion at any rate, this
lack of buying is not the result of " cussedness," but
is simply the reflex of the actual state of the trade
in the country, as experienced by the factors'
travellers. One and all, without exception, have gone
through very bad times since Christmas, and their stocks
have no need of replenishing. Besides, the prospect for
their next journey is far too discouraging to give them
heart to buy fresh goods.

IT T first sight this abnormal state of depression seems
llm hardly understandable, but on thinking it over the
M&L sequence of events producing it can be readily
traced. Undoubtedly the first link of the chain was
forged some eighteen months ago with the suspension of
Messrs. Baring. Running concurrently with this was
the endless series of labor disputes and complications,
culminating in the recent coal strike. Another matter
tending to the same end was the disastrous floods and
ruined harvest of last autumn ; while the climax was
reached in January with the death of the Duke of Clarence.

SOW I do not pretend to say that there is much solid
comfort in thus tracing out the causes of our present
spell of bad trade, but it should at least point a
moral of patience. It is no use unduly worrying
ourselves. These matters are totally beyond our control,
and will certainly right themselves in time. Our only
plan is to do the best we can and to ' ' lie fallow ' ' for a
little time.

' ANY of the employers here were glad of the excuse

of the holiday to give their workpeople an extra long

TCL vacation. After all, I think these quiet times fall

most severely on the workmen. The majority of

them live but from hand to mouth, and even at the best of

times have little opportunity of saving anything out of their

• We must not be understood as endorsing all, or necessarily any, of the views of
our correspondent, who writes on his own responsibility.

May 2, 1892.]

THE WATCHMAKER, JEWELER AND SILVERSMITH.

217

weekly (or perhaps it were often more correctly spelt
" weakly ") wage. Hence at times like this many of them
suffer actual want, or are forced to contract debts which
cripple them for long after.

|N the other hand I know that some of the working
jewelers make splendid money and live well. Kid

I gloves and silk hats are not quite unknown among
the " hare's feet " of Birmingham.

MUCH regret to notice that the older representatives
of the jewelry trade here seem to be dropping off. I
have, unfortunately, to refer this month to the death
of Mr. John Thomason, which occurred on the 13th
ult. Mr. Thomason was better known personally to a
former generation of the trade, as during the last few years
the increasing feebleness of old age has prevented him
taking any active part in trade matters. Still he appeared
at his office in Spencer Street as regularly as he possibly
could. Mr. Thomason was a Councillor of the City of
Birmingham, and did some good work on the various
committees of the council. Latterly, however, the grow-
ing infirmities of deafness and blindness have seriously
affected both his enjoyment and his usefulness.

R. THOMASON'S firm— formerly as Hilliard and
Thomason, then as J. Thomason and Son, and
recently as J. Thomason and Nephews — has held
a high position among the Birmingham silver-
smiths for many years.

§TRANGE to say, in spite of the depression to which I
have so lengthily referred, there have been a good
number of expensive diamond articles selling lately.
Since writing my last notes I have heard of several
of these high-priced goods being disposed of. Diamond
rings especially are a frequent sale, while valuable bracelets
and hair ornaments are often called for. These exceptional
sales, although neither constant enough nor of sufficient
volume to form a turnover, are yet of great use in helping
to fill up the day-book ; more especially in quiet times like
these.

JSEE that the latest rumour has it that, after all,
Prince George of Wales is to be betrothed to the
Princess May of Teck. Have those manufacturers,
who had presentation work in hand some few months
ago, held it over awaiting the course of events, or has it
all been resigned to the melting-pot ?

§ PEAKING of these presentation matters suggests the
query, Why will donors, whether committees or single
parties, postpone all negotiations for the things they
want, until the very latest moment ? I never yet
knew of a present which had not to be procured in a
hurry. As a rule, this means a less satisfactory result than
if more time had been given, while it is a constant source
of worry to the tradespeople through whose hands the
matter passes, Could not our retail friends, when con-
sulted about these affairs, throw out a hint or two to the
effect that a speedy decision would be advantageous to all
concerned ?

BELIEVE no trace whatever has been discovered of
the man Marks, whose disappearance I noted last
month. I am told that the committee of the Jewelers'
Association have the case in hand.

of the most prominent members of our
are at present away holiday-making. This

§EVERAL
trade
season of the year is a favorite one on the part of
the jewelers for taking a holiday, as, generally
speaking, it is the quietest time of the year.

[HE new managing director of Adie and Lovekin,
Limited, of Regent Street, has youth and energy, if
not long experience, on his side ; and under' his
control the firm ought to make good headway.

' "'ESSRS. LARRETT & GO'S final offer is 10s. in

the £., cash down. This, probably, is better

than 12s. 6d. in extended payments, and I

think it is likely to be generally accepted by the

Birmingham creditor's. I should certainly advise its

acceptance as the best and speediest way out of a bad job.

HEAR of another stoppage — also a London man —
which is causing some little flutter amongst the local
makers. In this case, however, the blame rests to
a great extent on the creditors' own shoulders, as it
has been well known in the trade for a long time that the
account referred to was a more than usually risky one.
Those who are content to sell their goods under this know-
ledge must also be content to make the best of the results.

T HAVE lately had the opportunity of inspecting a sort
£|f of memorial shield, which, as intended for a novel
41 purpose, opens up a fresh field for our art metal-
workers. This shield was executed to the order of a
schoolmaster, and his intention is that it shall be hung
each week at the head of the class which has been the
most deserving during the preceding week. He hopes it will
thus form an incentive to hard work and good behaviour on
the part of his pupils. The body of the shield is of polished
oak, ornamented with a laurel chaplet and an open book,
these latter being elaborately wrought in metal and well
finished and gilt. The workmanship and finish are almost
equal to gold work. I shall hear, and will let you know
later on, if this example is followed by other schoolmasters
of our city.

9 L

fHE vexed silver question Is again coming promi-
nently to the front, the present rate of exchange
against India being simply ruinous to all financial
relations between there and England. A resolution
is to be moved in the House of Commons declaring that,
" in view of the extreme danger which threatens all inte-
rests in India, from the increased difficulties caused by the
depreciation of silver, it is necessary that prompt measures
should be taken to establish a gold standard in India."
This is a matter of importance to all large users of
silver, and it will be well for the trade to keep it in sight.
Perhaps the Committee of the Jewelers' and Silversmiths'
Association will kindly note this, and inform their members
if any action by the trade is advisable.

fETTY thefts by workmen, I am sorry to notice, are
becoming again more numerous. Or is it that the
silent operations of the Association " Vigilance Com-
mittee" are finding out the culprits and bringing
them to justice ? I hope this is the case. At any rate the
frequent prosecutions will tend to put a stop to the
practice.

SIGH-CLASS watches, again, are things in almost
daily requirement, and many of our wholesale firms
keep an assortment constantly in stock. As soon as
one is sold it is replaced by another. They are thus
enabled to meet any emergency, and fulfil any immediate
demand for such goods.

fERY recently a new firm of factors has also come
into existence who have been buying somewhat
largely from the manufacturers. We are told there
is plenty of money at the back of this venture, while
the travelling partner is a man well known, and a success-
ful salesman.

THE WATCHMAKER, JEWELER AND SILVERSMITH.

[May '2, 1RA2.

WINDOWS AND WINDOW DRESSING.

By the Editor.

{Continued from page 198.)

N the present article we pro-
pose to confine ourselves
to those adjuncts now re-
cognised as indispensable
to window dressing — viz.,
window-draperies, whose
adoption in good houses is
all but universal. Sometimes £25 is spent upon this one item.
But it is by no means necessary to spend a lot of money,
although of course by so doing much more imposing effects
can be obtained. Still, with a single width of velvet, or
even with one cut in halves, some really good results are
obtainable. Moreover, there is one great advantage in
being able to turn the material about, as should the sun —
or what is often almost as bad, the strong light— cause the
prominent parts to fade, as is always the case with set
designs, these can be turned under. Beside this, when
the folds are fresh, each time the window is dressed the
same positions do not always catch the sun, which they
necessarily must under other conditions.

In employing draperies of this sort a cornice of some
kind is necessary. This may be of 1-inch brass rod, which
looks best dark bronzed. Some firms have adopted large
cornices up to 2J inches. In some instances these have
been ebonized ; in others, covered with velvet, either of the
same color or a pleasing contrast.

One of the simplest forms of drapery is shown at
the head of this article. It is a single width, and is
simply passed gracefully over the cornice six times, making
five festoons. The three centre folds are somewhat similar,
and the centre one may be either larger or smaller, if

Fig. 11.

desired, than the other two, while
the end member is made far fuller.
The ends are " cut upon the cross,"
with longer edges coming the same
side, so that when they are allowed
to fall from the cornice they can be arranged in de-
creasing folds. The wrong side of the velvet should be
lined at its ends with about a half a yard of satin, so that
the folds show satin and velvet alternately. There is
another little preparation of the velvet necessary to be
able to do this nicely, and that is, that after allowing for
the curtain-drop and the first large festoon, the velvet
should be sewn together edge to edge, otherwise, passing it
over a fold of this description it would present a right and
a wrong side alternately. Another plan is to line the
velvet with satin all through. It then presents alternate

folds of satin and velvet. But the full
width of the velvet is hardly required for
the festoons, unless the window be abnor-
mally large. Under the former circum-
stances, that part of the velvet forming
the festoons can be made out of one
width, split down the centre.

In .this window it will be observed there are no
trimmings of any sort, no tying up, or even cords and
tassels, although they might be very effectively introduced.

The design, Fig. 11, is effected out of a single width, fully
a yard shorter than the one just described. The end of
the velvet is placed over the top of the cornice and allowed
to fall the desired length on both sides to form the
curtains. The back now hangs in a long curve, with its
back towards the window. First pass two or three short

drooping curve of velvet and tie it
with a cord and tassels into a graceful flat bunch ; lift the
latter to the top of the cornice and allow the tassels to
drop over the front ; now draw the upper folds, the right
side forward, over the cornice in a loop from the centre to
the top of each curtain and arrange gracefully. The whole
performance will not take longer than it has taken to
describe. The curtains may now be looped up with cords
and tassels, and present an appearance so entirely dis-
similar from the foregoing — although obtained with the
same width of velvet — as to present so great a change as
to be equivalent to having "a new window."

But there are numerous other designs that can be made
out of this one width, amongst which may be instanced
Fig. 12, where we are introduced to something entirely
different. To obtain this effect we proceed as follows : —
First, measure off the centre of the length, then at equal
distances from it on either side make either a box pleat or
a bunch tied up with cords and tassels. The former is
made by taking, say, six or eight inches of the material,
and pinning it back to back, then folding the loop thus
made equally over the dividing seam at the top, and opening
out its width at the bottom half again as wide. The velvet
can now be gently nipped into the pleat. The back close
to the re-entrant angle can be slightly drawn over a long
thin pin from the bottom upwards,"to make it hang grace-
fully and not like a slab of stone. This operation being
repeated four times, forming three festoons, the velvet is

May 2, 1892.]

THE WATCHMAKEE, JEWELEK AND SILVEESMITH.

219

now fixed to the cornice a little loosely. A pin is then
placed at the end of the last pleat, and a triangular fold
of the curtain passed over the cornice now causes the drop-
curtains to fall down the front, which may be looped up at
any desired length by a cord and tassels passing through a
screw-eye in the side of the window behind the curtain.

If the velvet is not sewn up, another very effective bunch
pleat can easily be made, instead of the box pleat, bypassing,
say, six or eight inches of the width over the cornice from
the window side ; then taking up a whisp over, say, a
crunched-up paper flattened ball, bending a pleat at the
same time : this can then be tied up with cords and tassels,
and "drawn" so as to make it hang very gracefully. Here
and there a pin will be required to keep it in its place.
Tissue paper forms good stuffing for these operations, as it
obviates much nipping about, which is so prejudicial to
velvet, as it so easily marks, especially if it be good
quality.

In either of these the drop-curtain can be dispensed
with, and as it forms such an important item in the length
of the stuff required, the cost will be reduced by nearly one-
half. Still, some sort of curtains, however short, are always
preferable, and serve as such good receptacles for the
electric lights.

( To be continued. )

==iAi==

©iamoQcj iJiefiL Ro£e$.

(By Vaaeite.)

Kimbekley, April 1st.
HE Exhibition is still the leading theme out
here. Everyone is so confident of the
future development of this country, from the
signs that surround us on all sides and are
daily increasing, that they are very desirous
of having a really good Exhibition, and no
doubt they will succeed. There will be some
very cheap excursions from America, and probably from
England, arranged by Messrs. Cook. As special inducement,
the De Beers have made a visit to the mines part of the pro-
gramme. This is a new kind of thing to satisfy a curiosity
in which everyone shares to a greater or less extent.
Speaking of the belief in the immediate future, reminds me
of a little episode that recently transpired here. One of
our wealthy men, who is behind the scenes in some big-
things that will shortly be made public, offered to bet some
thousairds that in a very limited time the inhabitants in
and around Kimberley would number a million, but no one
accepted the bet. The fact is, an enormous amount of
prospecting has been going on, and the value of properties
has been so well ascertained, that it is said that the
De Beers are contemplating purchases of unheard-of
dimensions, reaching, in fact, eight figures. But for all
that they are developing the Kimberley mine, and have
now added sonie hauling machinery of remarkable
dimensions.

I suppose your readers, as buyers of diamonds, will
have heard all about that large buy of the syndicate, which
went into millions, and the subsequent action on the part
of the company. But although in some instances it caused
large parcels (the whole not amounting to six figures) to
be offered at below the market value, the effect will not be
a permanent one. Of course no one can say how long
things will remain in statu quo. When one looks round at
the favorable indications of large and important dis-
coveries all round, and the number of syndicates that are
developing what are said to be most favorable claims, one
cannot help being prepared to hear great changes in the
not very far distant future. Those on the Modder Biver
are turning out very satisfactory ; and another, which is

certainly, from other points of view, very interesting, is
that gold quartz has been found very near Kimberley,
so that the diamondiferous pipes appear to show no kind
of preference for the strata through which they pierce.
In the early days, when the shales had not been bottomed,
it was thought that it was to the carbonaceous matter
contained in them that we were indebted for the
diamond, and that it had been formed in its present matrix ;
but when the shales were bottomed the idea had to be
allowed to be set aside, as the pipes were quite as
diamondiferous while passing through the melaphyres or
the quartzites as when passing through the shales.
But what was unexpected to some, but, of course, well
known to others (i.e., those people who always know after
a thing has happened), at 1,250 ft. shales have been
again struck. But for all that the fragmental condition of
the rock, as anyone would admit who examined a shovelful
of wash-up, precludes the idea of the contents of the pipe —
the Kimberlite as it is called — being the home of the
diamond. If a lump of it be carefully removed from the
mine, and weathered and washed, it will be found to
be full of pieces of quartz which have been split up, and
which exhibit fractured faces, and the same may be said of
diamonds. The discovery of gold, however, so near the
existing mines may lead some people to come forward and
assert with the old Greek naturalist that " Verily gold alone
formeth the fitten and propper womb for the diamond."
I should think this is just about as likely as it is that
when he was speaking he meant the diamond at all. But
the De Beers have not the first hand on all likely and
promising properties ; there are very favorable properties
in Bultfontein, Dorsfontein, and Alexandersfontein, which
surround the great mines, upon which prior claims exist.

Jagersfontein continues to put out, not only fine stones,
but a good quantity ; in January and February they totalled
up over 22,000 carats. Otto's Kopje are washing yellow
with such satisfaction that it has been decided to erect
compounds to prevent the I. D. B. At the depth of 800
ft. they are also "finding." N. E. Bultfontein still
continues hauling and washing ; sometimes they total up
4,000 carats a week.

The greatest sensation of the hour is perhaps that over
the reported discovery of diamonds near Pretoria, the
capital of the Transvaal, where four or five diamonds are
said to have been found in what appears to be blue ground,
but why this should have created such a furore is difficult
to say. I heard that several people have found garnets,
and others illmenite — or, as they call it out here, carbon —
which I should look upon as even better signs than the
reputed discovery of the diamonds, which by many are
believed to be only " salt." At any rate, if they are, the
Government will have no cause to grumble, for they have
had applications for stone-breakers' licences for any number
of claims from men from all parts.

Now in Christiana, on the other hand, there certainly is
some really good, genuine diamond-finding going on by
poor men, who get enough to keep themselves by it. One
man found one the other day, for which he realised £30.
In fact, scarcely a day goes by without someone finding a
passable stone, yet there is no thought of extensive mines
and no rushing.

. The Gordon are washing yellow profitably, as the North-
East Company have been doing for some time. The
former are still flooded out, and this commenced just as
they were about to start to haul the blue in large quantities,
which must have been very disappointing. Still they have
had some remarkable finds. Some time ago I saw one of
these stones of 20 carat, which I have no hesitation in
saying was the whitest stone I ever saw. I placed it beside
a test stone used by " the finest judge in the world," and
the latter stone was simply murdered. It was a perfect
octahedron in shape — perhaps a little on one side — but it

220

THE WATCHMAKER, JEWELER AND SILVERSMITH.

[May 2, 1892.

was not smooth and bright as they often are, it being built
up of countless steps, which gave it a very rough exterior,
and even in the face of this its brightness and whiteness
were things never to be forgotten. When cut it ought to
make a 10-carat stone, and fetch £1,000 — i.e., according
to what I have known stones to realise.

I have recently seen what I have no hesitation in pro-
nouncing to be, in many respects

The Most Remarkable Diamond in the World.

It is about 180 carats in weight, is practically without flaw
or blemish, but, unfortunately, is not white. It is the shape
that is so absolutely unique, which I will try and explain :
First, imagine it to be a true and perfect octahedron, then
imagine the upper pyramid cut off at about half its length
by a plane of a cube, thus forming a perfect table, farther,
a little cubic face at the opposite apex forming the culet,
the corners taken off by curved faces of the rombic-
dodecahedron, the upper faces left carrying distorted faces
of the three or six-faced octahedron, thus forming true
pavilions, with which the skill facets form a perfect upper
part to the stone. The octahedral planes below are so
modified that I am sure that not one in a thousand who
has been used to rough diamonds would believe it was in
the same condition as mother nature left it, so near does it
approach to a modern cut gem ! But there are features in
it that nature made no attempt to hide — although she
certainly emulated the artificial finish to wondrous per-
fection— and they are the triangular depressions so
characteristic of diamonds, and which you, Mr. Editor, I
believe, consider to be " the result of struggling on the part
of the octahedron to put on faces of the cube." But upon
the table there are also depressions, and this time they are
not triangular, but square, or nearly so, which certainly
puzzles me and everyone else that has seen them. If they
are the result of strugglings to put on cubic faces, how was
it that they occurred on a face that was already a cubic
face? As the stone has been sent to London you may
possibly see it, and many out here would be pleased to
hear your opinion of it.

sse

©Jranx^atfarvLic ^otting^.

(From Our New York Correspondent.)

\|/HE silver question still remains open, and, according
^d® to many, it is likely to, until there is a greater change
of opinion. Great dissatisfaction exists in some
quarters at the fate of the bill.

-V- ^t- ^V-

■7V- *«* *7V~

(<2J CURIOUS case was recently decided in the United
/id. States, as to whether a watch was, in reality, an article
of jewelry ; but as there is a licence required for the
sale of the latter, the Judge decided it was, and accordingly
fined a man 10 dols. and costs for selling a watch without
a jewelry licence. The case will be carried to a higher
court.

# * *

T would no doubt seem a curious custom to you on the
Eastern side of the Atlantic to have your income
published, yet such is done in connection with taxa-
tion. Thus the Waterbury Watch Company pay on
240,000 dols., the Waterbury Clock Company on 100,000
dols.

* * *

fHEAR that some amount of dissatisfaction has been
expressed by the employees of the American Waltham
Watch Company at the large per centage of female
labor they employ ; but President Fitch says : —
"It is not a question of employing more women than

men, but a question of tools. The watch industry of
to-day in this country is built on tools rather than hand
work. Watches are made by hand in Europe, and in order
to compete with the foreign manufacturers we have to
depend considerably upon machinery and such improve-
ments as we can perfect. The machinery introduced lately
is of that character which needs only to be fed, and it will
do the work. No particular skill is required, and a girl
can do the feeding as well as a man. The number of
women employed by us is 1,551, and the number of men
about 1,308, not including clerks. Our pay roll is from
150,000 dols. to 160,000 dols. per month, and the pay
of the individuals, men and women, is better than can be
obtained elsewhere. Not more than forty men left the
employ of the company last year because of newly added
machinery, although about as many were given different
work. We employ as many men to-day as we did a year
ago, but the percentage of girls has increased. We do not
anticipate disastrous consequences from the present
movement, because at the meeting recently held but
about thirty of our men were present."

EORGE F. KUNZ, our great American expert, has
been elected to a post in connection with the South
African Exposition in Kimberley.

Round the Watch Factories.

Sixty more hands will bring up the roll of the American
Watch Company to 3,000

The Waterbury have a new low-priced watch they are
bringing out ; it is in hunting silver cases.

Great strides are being made with automatic machines.
At the American Waltham factory they are still on the
increase.

The Elgin have recently set up a new automatic pointing
machine in the escapement department, which cuts off the
blanks and points both ends.

The American Waltham Watch Company have declared
a dividend at the rate of 8 per cent, per annum, on its
3,000,000 dols. stock.

The Eaton Dial Manufacturing Company of New York
was lately incorporated with 7,000 dols. capital.

It is reported from Ohio that Sir Arthur Linton, Samuel
Drieiff and Stanley Drieiff of London, England, have
arrived in that city to inspect available sites for the erection
of a factory for the manufacture of optical goods. The
visitors are said to represent an English company ( ? — Ed.),
but its name has not been divulged. If the company
decides to locate there, it will employ 200 operatives, and
will bring them from England.

The Newell Watch Company, with 200,000 dols. capital,
are looking for a site.

The Cheshire Watch Company's assets have been sold
for 50,000 dols., one-third of the original cost.

The American Waltham Watch Company have reduced the
prices of all their watches from 10 to 20 per cent., except
the two highest grades.

The Elgin and other manufacturers of the Association
have also made similar reductions ; rebates are to be
allowed if claimed within fifteen days. It is rather
annoying to many that some intimation was not given of
this, as they have got out their spring catalogues.

The Waltham have put a new 6-size movement eleven
jewels watch upon the market, and one of similar con-
struction in 16-size.

The Elgin have put a similar 16-size upon the market.

The United States Watch Factory are running full time
affain.

May 2, 1892.]

THE WATCHMAKEE, JEWELER AND SILVERSMITH.

221

©Jriaf^ at tfte f^o^af ©^er^aton/,

FlclHE annual trial of chronometers at the Royal Obser-
U§ vatory, Greenwich, will commence this year on July,
2k> 2nd, and will be for a period of twenty-nine weeks.
The chronometers will be tested in the oven for two
periods of four weeks each, at temperatures ranging from
75° to 100° Fahrenheit, and also at the ordinary summer
and winter temperatures of the room. Applications for
permission to send chronometers for trial must be made
to the Hydrographer of the Navy, Admiralty, London,
S.W., not later than June 13th, and none can be received
at the Royal Observatory later than June 27th.

There will be also a trial of Deck Watches in two classes,
A and B. Class A watches should be of good finish, full
jewelled, with sunk seconds dial, and fine Breguet spring,
and well-adjusted in compensation and positions. Class
B watches should be strongly made, of less expensive work-
manship, and adjusted for compensation and horizontal
and vertical positions. They should be of about No. 20
size, with large seconds dial distinctly divided. The hour
and minute hands and the hour figures should not be so
heavy as to interfere with the visibility of the seconds.
Preference will be given to keyless watches. Makers who
may desire to send watches to this trial must first obtain
permission from the Hydrographer of the Navy, to whom
all requests must be sent not later than October 3rd,
stating the class for which each watch is to be entered. The
watches are to be delivered between the hours of 10 and 1
on any day (excepting Sunday) during the week ending
October 17th, after which date no watch can under any
circumstances be received.

The rating this year commences on Saturday, October
22nd, and will be as follows : —

Watch Horizontal, dial up, in room

,, ,, •, in oven

,, Vertical, pendant up ,,

„ „ r'ght ,,
., left
.. "P

,, Horizontal, dial up ,,

,, ,, ,, in room

Total duration of Trial

The mean temperature in the oven will be from 80° to
85° Fahrenheit. The watches are to be in strong silver
dome cases, with crystal glass, and each must bear a
distinguishing No. engraved on the plate of the movement.
After the termination of the trial the Admiralty will offer
to purchase as many of the best watches in each class as may
seem desirable, at prices regulated by the performance and
quality of the watch, but not exceeding £18 for Class A, and
£10 for Class B. The price is to include a mahogany box
with ivory label, cleaning after trial, and engraving the
Government mark on the dial and plate of the movement,
and the name of the maker, the No. of the watch, the
letters D. W., the Government mark, and the letter A or B
on the ivory label of the box, in the manner indicated
below : —

Class A.

Class B.

for

6 weeks

for

1 week

4 days

1 week

3 days

i Not tried

3 days

• with pendant

4 days

) right or left.

1 week

for

6 weeks

16 weeks

15 weeks

(U^e " <J\rea,6 " GfectVo - pfati ng.

rTF there is one important fact that must be apparent
x. more than another to every business man visiting the
Electrical Exhibition at the Crystal Palace, it is this —
that with the ever-increasing adoption of electric lighting,'
a greater demand arises for superior fittings every day.
Lacquered bronze and fine cut glass are extremely useful
for these purposes, and lend themselves to thousands of
ideas. But there are many instances where neither of
these materials is rich enough. There are numberless
instances where silver alone is the correct thing to employ.
But then comes the question of expense. Even ordinary
silver-plating is too expensive ; and besides, even if it were
employed, in the foul gas of, say, a London atmosphere, it
soon blackens, and requires keeping clean. Hence we have
had introduced from time to time all sorts of lacquers for
the protection of silver surfaces from atmospheric action,
but so far these have been more or less open to objection.
The most successful rival of silver-plating, however, is
perhaps nickel-plating, which is not nearly so much affected
by the atmosphere as silver, and can be more roughly used,
because of the hardness of the deposit. But even this is
open to great objections : firstly, it is very difficult to
clean ; secondly, it is so blue that it can never be mistaken
for the sterling metal, and we might also add that there is
one fatal mistake often made in nickel-plating, and that is
that the surfaces are not properly prepared ; under the idea
that a thick deposit of nickel will fill up all irregularities,
they are left in anything but a well-finished condition. Of
course, a more fatal error than this could not exist, as an
electro deposit does not fill up holes, but reproduces them,
so that when the nickel-plated article comes from the bath
it requires so much polishing that all the sharp edges are
taken off, and it looks far from new.

Some twelve months ago we saw some yacht fittings
which appeared to solve the whole difficulty in the intro-
duction of electro-plated fittings. From the absence of
blue we were certain they were not nickel, and from the
absence also of discoloration we could not think they were
ordinary silver. Upon inquiries we found they were the
production of a firm who did not appear to be pushing
themselves very forward, and so we decided to wait and see
how their productions stood the test of time. They have
more than satisfied our expectations. These productions
were the property of the London Metallurgical Company,
Turnmill Street, E.G., who are now exhibiting at the
Electrical Exhibition. The process is protected by patents
in this and other countries. In passing through their
works one sees nothing very different from an ordinary
silver-plater's, except one or two little inventions such as
an electro-magnetic stirring arrangement. We should
advise all our readers who visit the Palace to see the
specimens of their productions. They include all sorts of
fittings, mirrors, mouldings, articles for the writing, toilet,
and dinner table. Users should guard against the great evil
of which we have already spoken. We notice the company
to which we have just referred gives special attention to
surfaces before electro-plating. What the plating material
is which they use, they are not at present prepared to say,
but we believe silver enters largely into it, while it has
advantages over every other kind of plating in being much
harder, and in being of a similar color to silver. It is also
far less subject to tarnish, and is easily cleaned.

Mr. J. Davidson, of High Street, Wick, has made
further improvements upon his automatic memorandum
clock, described in January last, it now being worked by
electricity.

The Waltham are running nearly 5,000 electric lights
through their extensive buildings.

THE WATCHMAKER, JEWELER AND SILVERSMITH.

[May 2, 1892.

Telegraph Address -SYEJEjMHAJvl, BIRJVIINGHAJvl.

Telephone Address— 4,059.

A. SYDENHAM, 20. Frederick St.. BIRMINGHAM,

Wholesale & Manufacturing Jeweller,

IINGHA

•t. ENGLAND.

GOLD AND SILVER WALTHAM WATCHES

OF EVERY DESCRIPTION.

A Large Stock of these Splendid Watches to suit all Districts.

CALL WATCHES HAVE COMPENSATION BALANCES, AND HAVE CRYSTAL GLASSES, AND, IN MOST CASES, BREQUET SPRINGS,)

(Sentlemen's Watcbes.

Silver Open Face Snap Cases, from -

Silver Open Face Spring Cases, from -

Silver Hunters, from -

G:ld 10 carat Open Face, from -

Gold 10 carat Hunters, from - - -

Gold 10 carat Open Face, Keyless, from

Gold 10 carat Keyless Hunters, from

Gold 18 carat Open Face, from

Gold 18 carat Hunters, from -

Gold 1 8 carat Keyless, Open Face, from

Gold 18 carat Keyless Hunters, from

w&dW KeyleSS HunteP

£1 12 9
1 13 9 —

4 13 0

5 8 0

2 0 6
5 17 0

Xatues' Watcbca.

- 6 10 0

8 2 0

— 9 17 0

10 8 0
:12 0 0

Silver Open Face, from -

Silver Hnxters./Vow -

Gold 10 carat Open Face, /Vow

Gold 10 carat Hunters, from -

Gold 10 carat Open Face, Keyless, from -

Gold 10 carat Keyless Hunters,. from

Gold 18 carat Open Face, from

Gold 18 carat Hunters, /row -

Gold 18 carat Keyless, Open Face, /Vow -

Gold 18 carat Keyless Hunters, from

winding !KeylessHunteP

£1 18 9 —

— — 2 1 6
3 8 0 —

— — 4 6 0

— 4 2 0

— —500
5 19 0 —

— —720

— 6 8 0

— — 7 12 0

GOLD AND SILVER WALTHAM WATCHES OF ALL THE BEST SELLING GRADES IN STOCK.

WALTHAM WATCHES FOR LADIES, Hunter, Half-Hunter, Open Face, Keyless, Plain, Engraved, Fancy
and Enamelled Cases, 18-ct and 10-et., Gold guaranteed, and Hall-marked Silver.

A. SYDENHAM, Wholesale Jeweller, 26, Frederick Street, BIRMINGHAM, ENGLAND.

May 2, 1892.]

THE WATCHMAKEK, JEWELEE AND SILVEESMITH.

xiv

Telegraph Address-SYDEjNHAJVI, I3IRJVIINGHAJVI.

Telephone Address— 4,059.

A. SYDENHAM

Wholesale & Manufacturing Jeweller,

j 26, Frederick St., BIRMINGHAM,

For Home and Export. ENGLAND.

SYDENHAM'S DIAMOND and GEM BRACELETS AND BANGLES

SET BROOCHES. Of every description, from the cheapest to the most

These . expensive,

diamond and "em Bright Gold Bracelets, from 8/6 upwards.
set Gold Butter- Bright Gold Bangles, from 6/6 upwards,
fly Brooches are j Bracelets in Silver, narrow, Hall-marked, 3/- each,
the prettiest! Bangles in Silver at all prices,
things ever made. I Indian Bangles, -/8, 1/-, 1/3, 1/6, 1/9, 2/- each.

This is the great house for

GOLD AND SILVER

THIMBLES.

Silver Hall-marked Thimbles,
7/6 to 18/- per dozen.

18-ct., 15-ct., 9-ct., and Silver Link Suites>
Studs and Collars of every description.

A. SYDENHAM for MEDALS

For Athletic Sports,

Skating-, Yachting,

Boating, Curling,

Golfing, Swimming,

Shooting, &c.

Agricultural Shows.

Root, Bird, Dog,
Eabbit. Horse, Bee,

Pigeon, Canary,
Poultry Shows, &c.

DRAWINGS and
PRICES

Ox Application.

The New Dorcas Thimbles.

same as drawing, and other pretty

designs, 21/- per dozen.

Plain Pattern, 17/- per dozen.

DIAMOND GOODS of every description,

Ladies' Diamond Rings, £1 to £20.

Gentlemen's Diamond Rings, £5 to £40.

Diamond Pichu Brooches.

Diamond Spray Brooches.

DIAMOND PINS from the cheapest to
the most expensive.

Keepers— 18-C'arat — To those of my friends at
home and in the Colonies who have not yet
seen my splendid selection of 18-ct. Keepers,
I ask them to take an early opportunity of
buying samples of these choice goods at the
most reasonable prices.

Keepers — 9-Carat — The finest stock of 9-ct.
Keepers in the Trade.

RINGS MY GREAT SPECIALITY.

LADIES' RINGS of the most choice
description. I have one of the largest
and best selections of Ladies' Gem Rings
and Engagement Rings in the trade.
Over 5,000 to choose from.

BiBMSSiili^ Ladies' Half-Hoop Gem

Rings — All Diamond, 30/-
to £50 ; Diamond and Ruby,
25/- to £50

Ladies' Boat Set. Diamond!
Rings at all prices.

Ladies' Diamond and Gem Set Rings
of every other description, 15/- to £25.

Ladies' 15-ct. Engagement

Rings, same as drawing, and

other pretty designs ; sell

very well. Real Diamond.

12/6 each.

Ladies' 15-ct. Ruby and
Pearl Gem Rings, like draw-
ing, and various other most
saleable patterns. 12/6each.

Gentlemen's Diamond Rings
at all prices.

Gentlemen's 18-ct., 15-ct., and 9-ct. Signet Rings
in great variety.

Special attention given to orders for
MASONIC JEWELS, SPECIAL
PIECES, PRESENTATION KEYS,
PRESENTATION JEWELLERY,
and OFFICIAL JE .VELS of all
kinds.

NEWEST DESIGNS OF 9-CT. HALL-MARKED BROOCHES,

Special Line of 9-ct. Hall-Marked Brooches, various patterns, as drawings, and other pretty designs, all at 5/9 each.

These Brooches with Earrings to match. 8 9 per set.
SIMILAR BROOCHES, but larger size, 9-ct, Hail-Marked ... ... ... ... ... ... ... 8/3 each.

,, ,, ,, with Earrings to match ... ... ... ... ... ... ... 11/3 per set.

A large variety of all the most fashionable and b.st value patterns in 9-ct. Gold Brooches always in stock.

A. SYDENHAM

gives special attention to all Colonial OC Fppdpn'pk SfpPPT

Letters, and will be pleased to receive

Orders, if accompanied with Cash or

satisfactory English References.

ILLUSTRATED PRICE LISTS ON APPLICATION

BIRMINGHAM,

ENGLAND.

THE WATCHMAKER, JEWELER AND SILVERSMITH.

[May 2, 1892.

\T7llE gloom has passed, the worst is over, and from
ejfe John o' Croats house to Lands End reports are
certainly of a more cheerful character, and so they
bad need he. Many were the applications from various
parts of the country during the last fortnight of January
and the whole of February for extension of time, but witb
March it became evident that the worst was over ; and
during the last month things have been really looking up
all round, so that trade is fully up to the normal, and in
many instances even better than last year. It is very
strange, but all the more pleasing, how universal this
improvement appears.

n7HE watch trade in Coventry is in a very fair state ;
* * there is an entire absence of rush it is true, but there
is a still greater absence of idleness, which we hear is a
very different state from that in which the Swiss find
themselves. Hasty generalisations and sweeping assertions
ought always to be received with a caution which
generally does not accompany them ; so that we do not
attempt to repeat the language which we have seen used
in several papers to express the low condition of the Swiss
trade at the present moment, as we hope it is exaggerated ;
if not, we have indeed got a great deal for which to be
thankful.

MESSRS. NEWSOME and Co. propose to attempt to
make every jeweler throughout the Kingdom an agent
for their celebrated cycles. Already many jewelers
in various parts have taken up agencies for cycles, and have
found it worth their while to do so.

N many parts in the North trade appears in sympathy
with the coal crisis. There are still conflicting state-
ments as to the state of trade.

fN many centres photographic instruments are moving-
very well, and manufacturers are fairly busy. Each
year shows an increase of sons of the camera, and it would
pay many manufacturers to indulge in this art as a pastime,
and amuse themselves by practising upon their novelties
that they bring out. There are several firms who do this,
and can send to their customers a photo of their latest
arrivals without having to wait for the engraver, or spend
several pounds upon it. Besides, it does for future reference
if need be. Others use the camera for all their specialities
and things they will never make again, and find them far
more handy than plasters. A retail customer can appreciate
the appearance of an article from a photo, to whom a
casting would appear nothing. Albums formed of collec-
tions of this sort of things can be made and lent when
required to retailers. Most of the large houses have their
important works of every description photographed and
classified into albums, by which they can impress customers,
and take orders.

£E hear that the Merchandise Marks Act is not yet
sufficiently enforced to prevent English optical
goods being copied abroad and sold as English. It
is a great shame if this is so, and some very bad cases are
reported of removing the marks of foreign indication, and
the articles being sold as English manufacture. The sooner
the authorities make an example of one of these rogues
the better for the trade of the country.

Messrs. Potts, of Leeds, have recently erected a three-
dial chiming public clock at South Stockton, of which the
inhabitants are speaking very highly.

3'r <^°^[2 SSenneff, l§>imifec|.

\|/HE third annual general meeting took place at
®1® Kennan's Hotel. Mr. H. W. Lofthouse, who
presided, said that the increase in the business,
although not so large as had been anticipated, was by
no means unsatisfactory, considering that the past year
had been a very unfortunate one for the jewelry trade.
The profit shown on the balance -sheet stood at £2,183, from
which had to be deducted 20 per cent, for alterations and
initiatory expenses, and £600 debited to profit and loss on
account of the annuity paid this year to Sir John Bennett.
There was then a balance of £1,040, which, added to the
unappropriated profit of £373, left a balance to the credit
of profit and loss of £1,413. This they recommended to
be carried forward. A resolution had been passed by the
shareholders at the last meeting that the assets as shown
in the balance-sheets were more than was necessary for
carrying on the business, and a scheme for the reduction
of the capital was proposed. That scheme had had their
serious consideration, and they had given the solicitors
instructions to take the necessary steps to give effect to
the recommendation. He hoped in the course of a few
weeks again to call the shareholders for the purpose of
passing such formal resolutions as were necessary to
accomplish their object. He moved the adoption of the
report and balance-sheet. The motion was seconded by
Mr. G. Hendry, and carried unanimously. Mr. P. C.
Brachi and Mr. H. W. Lofthouse were re-elected directors.

(U^e Maujoraf difiain anil S&aelge j^ordarrrjartften.

II? VERY elaborate gold chain and badge has been
Wfy provided for the ancient and distinguished borough
l&b of Carmarthen. It is in 18-carat quality gold, hall-
marked throughout, and the chain is particularly
interesting. There are a series of principal links of a
Gothic character, suiting the antiquities of the borough,
the centres having Knight Templar shields with castellated
crowns, which are also emblems of the mayoral office.
Each of the large shields is intended to take the name and
year of office of the successive Mayors, the first on each
side of the centre link being engraved with the name of
Mr. Thomas Jenkins, the present Mayor, who has held
office for the last two years. Between each of the larger
links, connected by double sets of oval chain, comes the
Gothic monogram, C.C. — Corporation of Carmarthen.
Approaching the centre link are two civic maces charmingly
wrought, and on the former is a shield with the Prince of
Wales's Feathers, relating to the fact that Carmarthen was
anciently and justly considered the capital of South Wales.
Below the shield are the crossed leeks of Wales in saltire,
enamelled, and over it, upon a seal of honor, is placed the
Royal crown. From this suggestive central emblem of the
chain depends the badge — a large oval surrounded by an
open wrought border of Maltese crosses and fleurs-de-lis,
representing the coronet of the principality of South Wales.
Next comes the legend of the borough in gold letters on an
enamelled ground, and within it is given a magnificent
blazon of the borough arms — the famous castle of Car-
marthen with river arch and three towers, two ravens
upon the side towers, and an ostrich feather on each side,
with the lion passant retournant below. The Welsh motto
of the borough completes the blazon. The following
inscription is given on the reverse of the badge : — ' ' This
mayoral chain and badge is the property of the Corporation
of the Borough of Carmarthen, and was provided in the
year 1892 by subscription amongst members of the Town
Council and others, £50 being contributed by Peter
Hopkins, Esq." The whole has been carried out in the
finest style by Messrs. T. and J. Bragg, of Birmingham,
through Messrs. Jenkins and Son, of Carmarthen.

May 2, 1892.]

THE WATCHMAKEE, JEWELER AND SILVERSMITH.

223

Uni£orrq Uime (U^roug^out
contemporary

a (Sjreaf ftaifcoa^'

9UR esteemed contemporary the Philadelphia Retail
Jeweler gives the following: — " The Philadelphia
and Reading R. R. Company has originated and
put in force an admirable device for insuring
uniformity of time as registered by all clocks and watches
in use throughout this system ; it is simple and perfect in
operation. At the Telegraph Superintendent's office at
the main station, Reading, Pa., is located a set of repeat-
ing instruments, which are connected by means of a switch
with all the telegraph lines of the Reading Railroad pass-
ing or terminating at Reading. This repeater is operated
by one key situated alongside of a chronometer, on which
an operator works all the wires simultaneously. At two
minutes before 4 o'clock p.m. business on the railroad
wires is suspended, the repeater is switched in and the
operator begins to transmit the word ' time ' at short in-
tervals, thus calling the attention of the line offices to the
fact that the time is about to be transmitted.

" At twenty seconds of 4 o'clock successive dots are made
until five seconds of 4 , when the circuit is held open until
exactly 4 o'clock, when one dot is given; the circuit is
again held open until fifteen seconds after 4, when two dots
are given ; circuit held open untirthirty seconds after 4, when
three dots are given ; circuit held open until forty-five
seconds after 4, when four dots are given, and circuit held
open until one minute after 4, when five dots are given
and circuit closed, after which the wires are restored to
their normal positions and the regular business resumed.
The wires on branch roads that do not centre at Reading
have the time signals supplied by means of local repeaters
placed in the junction offices. By this operation the correct
time is transmitted to about 450 offices and stations on the
Reading Railroad system, and the operators in the various
offices along the line have five opportunities for setting
their clocks and watches on the second, as the first dot is
always transmitted on the exact second of the divisions of
the minute as above named. The time as sent from Read-
ing is taken from a chronometer which is regulated by
telegraph from time signals from the time service of the
United States Naval Observatory at Washington."

iJfie boriL Maijor'^ ^)\&\t to d> a relief? .

T is only natural to .expect that the Lord Mayor should
visit his native Principality during his term of office.
Accordingly arrangements have been made to give
him a warm reception in July, when he visits the London
of the West— Cardiff. Of course he is to be presented with
the freedom of the borough, and it is also to be enclosed
in a casket, the supplying of which has been the subject
of a good deal of competition. All sorts of suggestions were
made to secure fair play. Ultimately No. 5 was chosen
by the committee and — quite by a coincidence, of course —
it was one of the local jewelers. As there may be some
alteration in the carrying out of the details, we leave a
description of it till a future occasion.

In accordance with the decision of the German Govern-
ment to adopt central Europe time on the railroads, on the
1st April all the official and semi-official clocks in the
empire were altered, some being pushed forward and
others being pushed back, as their latitude dictated. There
was, however, one which escaped, and which could not be
made to skip half-an-hour at the pleasure of the adminis-
tration. It was the famous astronomical timepiece of
Strasburg Cathedral. To have meddled with it would
have been to ruin it, its guardians declared ; and so
Sehwelgue's masterpiece continues to indicate the true
time of " unredeemed France."

©Jfte GfoeiC ai^c} ©yatcfimaiCe r<«>' eK^furQ.

TT7HE thirty-ninth annual meeting of the subscribers to
®JL® the above institution was held on the 11th ult.,
at the Horological Institution, Northampton Square.
Mr. H. M. Gaydon occupied the chair, and there was
a large attendance. From the financial statement of
the Committee of Management it appeared that the total
amount received during the year was £1,025 4s. lid.,
made up as follows, viz. : — Subscriptions, £258 7s. ; grants
from the Goldsmiths' and Clockmakers' Companies, £351 ;
donations, £416 7s. lid., — special reference being made
to the festival presided over by Sir Joseph Savory, Bart.
The total expenditure during the year was £864 12s. 3d.,
and a sum of £417 had been invested, leaving a balance
due to the treasurer of £7 Is. 5d. The committee in their
report further stated that they had expended a considerable
amount in repairs on the asylum in New Southgate, and
had also invested a sum of £416 as a nucleus of a fund to
provide another widows' house. The report was unani-
mously adopted on the motion of the Chairman, seconded
by Mr. Spring. Two men and one woman were elected
annuitants of the society, and Mr. P. Woodman was
re-elected treasurer. The committee and auditors were
also re-appointed. A vote of thanks to the treasurer, the
committee, the auditors, and the chair brought the pro-
ceedings to a close. The successful candidates were Mr.
W. Arnott, 2,898 ; Mr. Vokes, 2,555 ; Caroline Nickelson
(unopposed), 1,012. The unsuccessful candidates were
Messrs. Plaskett, 313 ; Deboo, 371 ; Halliday, 100 ; and
Stansell, 281.

(Ufte 3'^er ©JrciiLe SDeru&ion ^ocielty.
XT7HE fifty-sixth annual general meeting of subscribers
^L® of the Silver Trade Pension Society was held at the

Holborn Town Hall as we were going to press with our
last issue. Mr. J. M. Garrard presided. The report and
balance-sheet, showing an increase of the society's
capital, were adopted. Discussion took place on the
system of using voting-papers known as " coalescing,"
and the chairman was asked to rule that such a method
of using proxies was irregular. Mr. Slater argued on the
other side, and Mr. Garrard then stated that the practice
complained of was perfectly in order, a decision which
evidently met with the approval of the majority present.
Mr. J. M. Garrard, Mr. James Slater, and Mr. Henry
Pearson were re-elected president, treasurer, and honorary
secretary respectively. In response to a vote of thanks
the president, Mr. Garrard, stated that he was arranging
for a festival at an early date, which he hoped would
result in a considerable addition to the charity's funded
capital.

Hfte d>focftmafter<&' C
nHHE Court and Livery of this

•ompanij.
Honorable Company,

together with their friends, dined together on the
3I£ 4th ult. at the Albion. The Master (Mr. D. Clarke),

presided. The toasts and speeches were certainly
above average, special contrasts being drawn between the
Avork of the corporation and other august bodies. But
permeating all there seemed to be an undercurrent of the
realization that the corporation was on no firmer basis
than that upon which other civic and national institutions
have been founded in the past, amongst which it may some
day be numbered. There was a goodly representation of
the trade, both amongst the liverymen and their friends,
and it is very rarely, perhaps, at a company's dinner of
this sort, that a craft, whose name is borne by a company,
is so well represented ; and we feel sure that if the
Honorable Clockmakers' Company was as rich as many of
the others, it would do considerably more to justify its
name than many are doing at the present.

224

THE WATCHMAKER, JEWELER AND SILVERSMITH.

[May 2, 1892.

@Ffte MariCetx*.

The following shows the imports of watches into this
country : —

March, '92, £74,468 ; March, '91, £65,866 ; first three
months of year '92, £180,919 ; "91, £148,405.

The value of clocks imported is as follows : —

March, '92 March, '91 3 Mths., '92 3 Mths., '91
France £12,572 £15,822 £32,882 £40,102

United States £8,239 £11,762 £23,113 £25,895
Totals £44,727 £51,506 £108,219 £125,973

DIAMONDS.

London, April 27th. — The state of trade during the
month, although a slight improvement in some respects
upon last, is still very depressed. Owing to the action of the
De Beers Company, either intentionally or by a mistake, a
lot of goods were placed upon the market, which materially
influenced prices. The Easter buyers wTere very disappoint-
ing ; but there are hopes and indications of more activity.

Amsterdam, April 25th. — During the past month the
diamond trade in Amsterdam has been almost languishing,
the demands being very limited indeed, and sales only
effected at tempting prices. There was an insignificant
demand in the beginning of the month for small stones,
and towards the latter larger stuff was in a little request.
The slackness at this time is attributable to the fall off in
the South American trade and the destruction of the
Russian trade, consequent upon the expulsion from that
kingdom of the principal speculators — the Jews. In
Antwerp much the same state exists. Mills are only
partially employed.

Paris, April 24th. — There has been but little or no
improvement in the diamond trade during the past month.
Easter was remarkable for its absence of foreign buyers.
Notices, however, have been received from American and
other houses that their representatives will shortly be over
for the purposes of buying for spring and summer stocks.
The recent diamond failures chiefly fell upon bankers.

MOTHER-O'-PEARL.

The April quarterly sale of the above article was not
very well attended, and a great number of shells were with-
drawn. Australian were firmer, medium and chicken being
up 20s. Sydney, Pile 1, realised from £9 to £10 7s. 6d. ;
medium, £9 5s. to £10; chicken, £9 10s. to £10 ; broken,
£6 5s. to £6 17s. 6d. ; grubby, £4 7s. 6d. to £6 7s. 6d. ;
dead, £1 15s. to £4 15s. West Australian, Pile 1, £6 to
£7 15s. ; medium, £8 15s. to £10 2s. 6d. ; broken, £5 10s.
to £6 10s. ; grubby, £3 17s. 6d. to £5 10s. ; dead,
£1 2s. to £2 12s. ',6d. Manila pieces, £5 10s. to £6 ;
chicken, £5 7s. 6d. to £6 5s. ; grubby, £4 to £4 7s. 6d.
Macassar, £7 17s. 6d. to £8 2s. 6d. ; chicken, £6 7s. 6d. to
£6 17s. 6d. Penang, £7 10s. to £7 15s. ; medium, £7 to
£8 10s. ; pieces, £5 10s. to £6 10s. ; grubby, £3 10s.
to £4. The next sale is fixed for June 21st.
SILVER.

Economists, statisticians, and manufacturers will soon
have to ask themselves the question afresh as to what
determines the value of silver. When the precious metal
touched 40d. it was considered by many to be a non-
recurring phenomenon, but the prices to which it has fallen
during the last month are below the limit set even by the
most extravagant prophets. There is no doubt the American
Silver Legislation is responsible for much of the up and
down movement, from the decree to buy up 54,000,000 ozs.
per annum, down to the recent defeat of the Coinage Bill,
with which the decline somewhat coincided. But
even then we hear of the influence upon its price
by the rate of Indian exchange. No doubt the first

act referred to, of buying annually 54,000,000 ozs.
per annum, stimulated many mine-owners to open
up their mines again with the hope of realizing at
a profit. But the old law of supply and demand must
never be lost sight of. It is not reasonable to suppose that
even with political intricacies, those marvellous productions
of the Broken Hill should go on long without influencing
the market materially. It will be an incalculable blessing,
not only to India but to other countries also, when we get
a solution of this question. The prices quoted now are
below 39d.

TIN.
Tin has been improving and remaining firm at £90 17s.
6d., but rose to £94 2s. 6d. at about which price it is
booked for three months.

COPPER.
The slight activity of the close of last month soon eased
to £45 7s. 6d. ; it then became somewhat steady at £45 17s.
6d., at which it is now booked for three months.

SPELTER.

Spelter has been fairly quiet with an upward tendency
to £21 17s. 6d.

QUICKSILVER.

Quicksilver, which commenced rather high, owing to the
quiet, fell, becoming dull, and subsequently easing to
£6 15s.

dieijfon £)earf 3i/g>fWie^.

§]7HE year 1891 was one of the most important fisheries
J on record, no less than 44,400,000 " oysters " being
brought to land during the forty-three days the fishery
lasted. These when brought to shore are shot into three
heaps ; two of the heaps are passed over into the hands of
the Government agent, who with a marine inspector attends
and controls the fisheries. The " oysters " are subsequently
offered for sale, unopened, by public auction at per
thousand. The probability is there is not a parallel
in the whole world to the springing up of a town, and
still more quickly disappearing, than that which springs
up upon these shores during this season. Scarcely a
tribe — certainly not a country — in the Eastern hemis-
phere is not represented. Each buyer superintends the
washing of his own " oysters," with the result that many
have to stand and see their little fortune lost or one
made, and return penniless or " a rich merchant." It
does not take much to constitute the latter in India. The
Government netted from this fishery 963,779 rupees. The
average price realised was £3 5s. 3d. per thousand, while
in 1880 it was only 15s. 4d. They have been known to
realise £12 7s. lOd. per thousand. The fishing is very
irregular, and sometimes for twelve or sixteen years there
are none. Unfortunately there are evidences that there
will be no more for some years to come.

Referring to our remarks in the last issue of this
journal re the purchase of the business of Henry Wilkinson
and Co., the oldest existing company in Sheffield, and
whose trade-mark dates back 108 years, having been
endorsed by the Cutlers' Company, we now learn that the
firm of Henry Wilkinson and Co., Limited, will in future
be kept a distinct concern, under the style of Henry
Wilkinson and Co., with their ancient mark (the cross
keys), and that some of the proprietors of the firm — men
of experience in the electro-plate trade — will endeavour to
forward the interests of the new concern.

We hear that the 400 carat diamond referred to by our
Kimberley correspondent is now being cut in Antwerp by
Messrs. Coltermans-Henrichs, the present oAvners of the
stone.

May 2, 1892 ]

THE WATCHMAKER. JEWELER AND SILVERSMITH.

225

©Jfte <J\rtif§>tie ©frearmerjf of

By J. WILLIAM TONES.
A Paper read before the Society of Arts, February 23/y/, 1892.
{Continued from page 185.)

It might also have been thought that as a casket, the dower
of a ■woman, was the source of such mischief it would have
been a discarded object. But this was not so. The joy-
loving Greek might laugh at the early perils of the jewel-
box, the witty poet might fable in veiled satire the dangers
of the female love of ornament, but the casket, nevertheless,
grew richer and more decorative age by age. The wooden
box was overlaid with ivory, silver, and, at last, gold, with
gems and other costly materials, treated generally with
panels and in conventional style, as seen on the later Greek
vases. During the Roman period, as riches and luxury
increased, these naturally became more elaborate. Dress
and ornaments with many became the chief object of atten-
tion, until a lady's toilet and ornaments became known
as mundus muliebris, her world.* There came into use a
special case, formed of some rich material called Dacty-
lotheca, wherein a large array of rings were kept.t

It is a matter of interest that one of the first gold caskets
of which we have a record has relation to a remarkable
Roman custom, in which — contrary to the Greek legends —
the sterner sex were concerned. It was a habit to allow
the beard to grow until about the age of twenty-one. The
young man then began to shave, and the first crop of
beard was consecrated to some god. The day was held as
a festival, and presents were sent to the young shaver by
his friends.! Thus, the young Nero, whose early reign
was as promising as its end. was infamous, consecrated his
beard to Jupiter Capitolinus, enclosing it in a veritable
golden casket (pyxidc aureaj, the borders being set with
pearls. § The melancholy fact is in regard to all these
examples, doubtless exhibiting in a high degree the art, as
well as the luxury, of each successive period, that nothing
now remains to us but an accidental record. This was,
indeed, hardly to be expected in regard to the Roman
world. As Byron powerfully expresses it : —

The Goth, the Christian, time, war, flood, and fire
Have dealt upon the seven-hilled city's pride ;
She saw her glories, star by star, expire,
And up the steep barbarian monarchs ride,
Where the car climbed the capitol.||

By the burning of the Alexandrian library, even the
record of these pieces is mainly lost. There were, indeed,
general causes, which have operated through long ages,
and have prevented our being able to refer to examples of
these far-off times. The very richness of the material has
occasioned the loss of many artistic treasures ; the cupidity,
the necessity, the repeated disorders of so long a course of
centuries have ensured their destruction ; while fashion,
that goddess of change, whose destructive worship belongs
to every age, as M. Labarte remarks,1I has contributed
even more than these combined causes to the breaking up
of the finest specimens of the goldsmiths' art. It is only,
therefore, by the examples left us, in materials which it
would hardly pay to disfigure or destroy, that we can
pursue the historical aspect of our subject.

It seems a far cry from the gold casket containing the
beard of Nero, to those enclosing mementoes of martyrs of
the Christian Church, but such is the irony of historic
fate. The custom arose, even in the early times of

* Liv. xxxiv., 7. f Martial xi., 60.

X Juvenal iii., 187; Petron. 29. § Suet. Ner. 12.
" Childe Harold," c. 4, lxxx. *I Arts of the Middle Ages, c. vii.

Christianity, to take out of the catacombs memorials and
even portions of the remains of martyrs and other saints,
to enclose them in boxes or other ornaments, and to wear
them as amulets. Such small holders were generally worn
on the breast, from which they receive their name
" encolpia." They were mostly small rectangular caskets
of precious metals or of common materials, ornamented
with the emblems of the Saviour or with Biblical illustra-
tions. Two golden encolpia of this kind were found, in
the 16th century, in the grottos of the Vatican. The
simplest holders of such relics are the numerously-
occurring caskets and round boxes of ivory, adorned with
ornaments or with reliefs, also caskets of fine kinds of
wood, or such as are covered with embroidery and
enamels. Perhaps the most valuable — at any rate, the
most significantly artistic work of this kind — is an antique
onyx vessel, with a relief picture in the style of Greek
art, in the treasury of the Abbey Church of St. Maurice in
Wallis, and which, according to tradition, was a present
of Charlemagne.

Here let me say a word in reference to our National Art
Museum. I have had the advantage of seeing most of the
collections in Europe, north of the Alps, and am free to
say that, as a typical collection of caskets, coffers, and
marriage chests or casoni, the South Kensington examples
stand first. I do not refer to what are called cabinets, in
which, so far as value and variety are concerned, the
Green Vaults at Dresden must carry off the palm. But I
am forced to agree here also with M. Labarte, in his
opinion that many of these pseudo-architectural produc-
tions are, after all, but elaborate artistic follies. For art,
value, and guidance, I think we have reason to be satisfied
with our own national collection ; and I am happy to be
able to refer to some of them, which have been kindly lent
for the occasion.

One of the most interesting examples is an ivory carved
box (10-66), with silver frame and mountings of decided
Byzantine character, believed, with good reason, to be the
work of the 10th or 11th century. It is oblong in form,
with feet, and a lid resembling a penthouse roof in
character, and following the Mosaic proportion generally,
2^- by 1+ by 1^. The surface is in bas-relief, almost flat,
but the ground is cut down very deeply ; thus giving an
effect of unusual boldness and force.

The only piece which came near to the nature of
caskets, produced about this time in Western Europe, were
oblong shrines or really boxes, having pointed gabled lids
similar to the roof of the ecclesiastical buildings of the
period, and made to contain what were held to be the
most precious treasures of the Church. These were the
reputed relics of the greatest saints of old, and hence the
name chasse was given to the smaller boxes, while the term
shrine was retained for the larger ones. One of the earliest
and finest of these is the " Shrine of the Magi," in
Cologne Cathedral, which dates from the 11th century.
The front is surrounded by a border of gold, decorated
alternately with precious stones en eabochon, and enamelled
ornaments in gold filigree. A series of arches decorating
the sides are each cut out of a single plate of metal, decor-
ated with champ-leve enamels. A very fine enamelled
shrine of the 12th century, in the Soltykoff collection,
with subjects representing the entombment and the resur-
rection, deserves mention ; while a beautiful enamelled
chasse of the same period in the British Museum, the sub-
jects represented being the Virgin and Child, with apostles,
should be examined, as a remarkable specimen of the
time.

I am fortunate in being able to show one of these
religious caskets (7245-62). The shape is the usual one,
with a high ridge roof, the enamels are on copper, and the
figures are of the usual treatment, though it is difficult to
fix the date of its execution.

226

THE WATCHMAKER, JEWELER AND SILVERSMITH.

[May 2, 1R92.

We are now approaching a time when the secular casket,
as such, began to appear. The dower of a lady of the
Middle Ages was often enclosed in two boxes of very
different sizes. One was large, of bold and often beautiful
proportions and called caserne in Italy, bakut in France, and
chest in England. These contained the dresses and larger
valuables of the lady's wardrobe. The smaller box, called
rojfivt in France, and casket in England, held her jewels,
money, and treasures, which lay in small compass. This
is illustrated in the words of Shakespeare, " I have writ
my letters, casketed my treasure, and given orders for our
horses." These caskets were often of wood or ivory,
charmingly carved, of wood covered with gold, silver, or
brass ; wood with decorated leather, at times silver and
gold, lastly, of iron or steel.

A carved oblong box of maple wood (1167-64), with
severe Gothic arches and panels, boldly cut, marks a tran-
sition period. It is said to be German work, probably of
the 14th century, and is so ecclesiastical in spirit that it is
difficult to say if it was originally a lady's casket, or an
armoire, a name given in France to treasure boxes of the
Church. Another casket (176-66), with panels of bone of
shape well-defined and boldy divided, is carved with events
from the life of the Virgin, also Gothic in panels and
arches, but the style is more free, and the box is more
clearly intended for a lady's jewels. The date is about the
lf)th century. Another casket, Italian, of the same date,
is one of the treasures of South Kensington Museum. It
was purchased from the Castellani collection at a cost of
some £500, is of silver, parcel gilt, with sloping lid, oblong
in general form, with four small feet ; its chief glories
being a series of quatrefoil plaques in translucent enamels,
upon figure groups embossed in low relief, and the details
afterwards engraved after the method described by Cellini.*
The subjects are scenes in the life of the Saviour, of the
Virgin Mary and Saints. These enamels, which give so
much value to this piece, have lately been reproduced as to
their essential character by Falize, of Paris.

Let us now turn to another type of box, less ambitious
and costly, but, withal, marked with much feeling and
style. It is of wood, covered with leather (898-1877), cuir
botiiUi, is oblong in shape, enriched with incised patterns
in low relief, a leading shield of arms, and Latin and
Italian inscriptions ; the date is given as 1490. There is
also a larger c-offret, leather-covered, decorated with Scrip-
ture and hunting subjects, which is interesting, and deserves
examination.

There is a curious casket (2168-55), stated to be of the
14th century, but which cannot, I think, be much earlier
than the period at which we have arrived. It is oblong,
of wood, covered with stamped and gilt brass work, having
rosettes, heads of queens, and sphinxes in alternation,
showing much effect and colour, the surface being varied
and rich. It is bound with twisted brass bands and
clamped, so that the necessary strength is not lost sight of
in the search for decorative beauty.

We now come to the iron age in caskets — the time when
it was requisite to take more precautions than formerly
against theft and violence. This iron age may, indeed,
probably have begun at a much earlier period than the
authentic examples left us would indicate. They were
also used, as we learn, by nobles and knights, no less than
by the fairer sex. M. Viollet le Due informs ust —
" During their journeys ladies carried them with them,
and kept their jewelry in them. In the country, in
distant expeditions, the nobles and knights, besides the
trunks which contained their effects, took these caskets,
which were confided to the charge of the squire, and con-
tained money, jewels, and sometimes even title deeds ; for

it was no unusual thing, even up to the 13th century, to
carry about with one family papers and important deeds."

While, then, the richly-carved ivory box, the jeweled
and enamelled casket, were most appropriate for fixed
positions in the hall or castle, the iron casket, with its
strength and elaborate lock, was more suitable for travel
and dangerous service. There is a typical one in South
Kensington Museum, which combines strength with beauty
(87-65). It is of iron, oblong, having an elaborate lock
on lid, and was made in Augsburg about A.n. 1530. The
form is excellent, having a raised moulding on lid to protect
the lock-plate, with gilt-metal corner pieces, while the
general surface is finely engraved with winged unicorns
and arabesques. There are great numbers of these iron
caskets, of uncertain dates, in museums. Messrs. Hard-
man, of Birmingham, exhibited one in 1862, of which I
have an illustration. It had an arch top, with handle on
lid, and appropriately decorated with rose sprays, parcel
gilt. But Messrs. Chubb have probably come nearest
to the mediaeval idea, with their drawing-room safes
opened by golden keys.

From iron we pass to bronze. There is a charming
little box (2084-55), bronze gilt, arched at top, and handle
as last described, with arabesque ornament in relief, and
the legend of Orpheus given in panels, which leads us to
less troublesome days. To show how long the strong box
idea lasts, however, there is an interesting example of
Dutch 18th century work (1130-1864). It has a curved
lid, strong lock, hinges, framework, and angle-plates in
brass open work, the panels, however, being much con-
trasted by being made in cane wicker plaiting.

There is also a very fine and characteristic box, English,
of the 17th century (619-1890), which I should not omit to
refer to. It is large, oblong, with lock and handle at top,
is of wood, covered with brass repousse work, roses, tulips,
and trefoils, bound with iron, and studded with nails, the
whole surface work being artistic and appropriate.

We will now take a step southward, and regard for a
few moments the Italian marriage caskets of the Middle
Ages. These caskets are of wood, ornamented with
pounced patterns, and covered with most minute and
beautiful subjects, figures, foliage, and ornaments in fine
paste or stucco, probably the work of Francesco l'lndaco
or his followers. Of these works in {/esso-duru, South
Kensington has a series, and the one I have noted is a
typical example (110-1887). It is oblong, with sloping lid,
the panels having raised figures, in processional groups.
Gifts, music, etc., probably marriage offerings, are shown on
the lid, shields of arms in positions of vantage. The gesso-
duro is white upon blue and gilt grounds, and the legend,
Omnia vincit amor, is shown on a painted riband on the
obverse of lid. While referring to Italy, it may be well to
observe that the motive of the wood casket, richly carved,
gilt, painted in imitation of enamels, and of massive,
oblong form, has been retained until the present day. A
fine example of this is the jewel casket of the late Cardinal
Antonelli, exhibited in 1862, and of which I have an
illustration. It was executed by Fiorentini, of Rome ; at
the base are lion supports, and the four great prophets ; at
the angles are figures of the twelve apostles, each coiner
has a statuette of one of the evangelists. Allegorical
figures adorn the panels, the centre one containing the
cardinal's arms and insignia. The rich foliage of the
cover is in open carved work, over which is a seated figure
of religion on a lion-headed throne, and holding the keys
of St. Peter.

(To be concluded.)

* "Trattato dell' Orificera." Jlilano, 1811, p. 45.
■f " Dictionnaire raisonne du Mobilier Francais."

The Rockford Watch Company have received word from
their agents in Australia that the Company has received a
first award for excellence of workmanship and general
merit.

May 2, 1892.]

THE WATCHMAKER, JEWELER AND SILVERSMITH.

227

jjpings fjfetf/ and ffbhetoortyy,

Pinfold's f-liNG jStretchee^
(Patent applied for.

EXTENSION OF THE

The above is an illustration of a new ring-stretcher,
patented by Messrs. A. andG. Pinfold of Cleckheaton, York-
shire. The merits of the invention only require to be
brought before the members of the trade to insure for it a
complete success. It would be difficult to find anyone who
is satisfied with the method now employed for stretching
and contracting rings. The time taken to alter a ring is
often considerable, as after it has been made the correct
size it invariably requires repolishing, in consequence of
the scratching it is almost sure to get during the operation.
In addition to the time occupied, there is frequently a great
danger of the ring being knocked out of shape, and some-
times broken through the way the stretcher is driven
through it ; but in Pinfold's invention these disadvantages
are entirely obviated. The operation can be performed in
a few minutes, and may be done as expediently and
correctly by the assistant in the shop as by an experienced
workman ; and further, the alteration may be made in the
presence of the customer. This is an advantage, as many
ladies are reluctant to entrust their rings out of their sight.

The inventor claims that all kinds of rings — thin, thick,
narrow and broad — may be altered with equal facility, and
the ring retains its shape, not being made taper, or forced
out of flat, as the stretcher passes straight through the ring,
leaving the latter perfectly free. This obviates the
difficulty existing when using the old tool, of getting the
ring off the stretcher. The tool is really a press, and
consists of an upright iron stand, at the base of which is
fixed a gun metal disc with graduated and tapered holes,
similar to the old tool. This revolves on a centre
pivot and is regulated by a steady pin. The iron stand is
made to support a powerful screw, causing a cylinder into
which it is tapped to rise or fall. This cylinder terminates
at the lower end in a strong pivot split.

One feature of the tool is the form of the stretcher
used, which is a slightly tapered disc with a hole
through the centre, just large enough to fit on the above
mentioned split pivot spring tight. There are a number
of these discs, as shown above, upon the stud at the back.
The sizes of the discs correspond exactly with the sizes on
the standard ring stick. Its construction and working
will at once suggest itself, as well as other uses to which
it may be put. Mr. Pinfold is already known to the trade
through his simple but effective metronome.

For a considerable time now there has been a great cry
for emblematic spoons, but as these are of such small
comparative value, there has risen a demand for national
and local silver articles of more important character.
With a view to meet this demand, Messrs. Stokes and
Ireland, of Birmingham — whose productions in certain
silver lines are amongst the best known in the trade — have
come forward with several articles emblematical of the
British nation, and in doing this they have selected those
articles most in demand.

The above block shows how the emblems of the United
Kingdom can be employed to form a silver candlestick, an
article in great demand now for a long time. By a process
of their own they are able to do some remarkably natural
modelling, which fact is not brought out in the engraving,
although it is very important.

The same emblems are also employed as shown above for
a cruet, when, by a slight conventionalising of the
national flowers, very striking and pleasing effects are
obtained. We can thoroughly recommend these goods to
our readers, first from our long acquaintance with the
quality of the work of this firm, and secondly, because we
are assured that there is a great demand for them.

New Ci\umb Plough.

The new (registered) " Crumb plough " or " Gatherer,"
illustrated below, is manufactured by Messrs. Spurrier and
Co., Birmingham. It is Sin. long, fitted with a lin. guard
slanting slightly into the plough, so that when the plough
is passed over the table-cloth the crumbs slip over the guard
into the interior, without being able to return, and are
emptied by simply turning over the plough, thus obviating
the disadvantage of a spluttering brush and tray. Nor can

the crumbs slip over as in the ordinary crumb scoop.
These " Ploughs " are handsomely made in E. P. with
ornamental handles, such as carved Japanese ivory, etc.,
etc. There are numerous articles of this firm's pro-
duction to which allusion might be made, but the crumb
plough just registered (No. 189,414) is one which is quite
out of the ordinary run of things, and will meet a want
long felt.

228 THE WATCHMAKER, JEWELER AND SILVERSMITH. [May 2, 1892.

<Sn anc| ©ut t^e ©ourfA. ft e^ieaoA.

Real Market Overt.- Walter Harrison, employed by
Messrs. Booth and Co., jewelers, Birmingham, to carry
travelers' sample cases, was sentenced at the Old Bailey to
twelve months' hard labor, for stealing forty-four rings,
value of fSO, while Mr. E. Booth was waiting upon a
customer. It was found that Harrison had sold the rings,
or part of them, in Petticoat Lane, which the learned
Common Serjeant took care to point out was market overt,
and then ordered the jewelry to be given up.

A " Christener " Run Down. — The Glasgow police
have recently run to ground an old suspect, with the result
of finding on his premises a portmanteau full of watches,
many of which had been successfully altered in name and
number till it was next to impossible to detect the altera-
tions. He was sentenced to sixty days' imprisonment.

The Result of Living in Style. — Messrs. Hancocks
and Co., of Bond Street, have lost their action for the
recovery of the amount due to them for jewelry supplied to
Mrs. Scholefield, when she was in the height of her glory,
as it was not possible to show that she now had any estate.
But the time may come, and the sooner the better, when
personal security will have to be accepted under these con-
ditions. The thought of ending a life in gaol might debar
some of those folks from living at thousands a year beyond
their income, who do so with impunity under our existing
laws.

" Can the Ethiopian Change His Skin ? " — The porter
recently employed at the Royal Hotel, Bradford, and who
stole 155 gold watches, the property of Messrs. Michael
Bros., Hatton Garden, forms a caution to the benevolently
disposed, as it turns out that the landlady took him into
her service without any knowledge whatever of him other
than meeting him at a Salvation Army shelter. It is now
shown that he was a ticket-of-leave man. He has been
sentenced to seven years' penal servitude, and five years'
police supervision. Only about 130 of the watches have been
recovered.

"Not Guilty." — The watchmakers and pawnbrokers
charged at Leamington in connection with the Comber
House robbery have been acquitted by the jury.

Mistaken Identity. — On the 18th March a man entered
the shop of Mr. W. G. Schoof, 99, St. John's Street Road,
E.G., and selected two gold watches, for which he tendered a
cheque, which was subsequently dishonored. A gentle-
man was apprehended for the offence, whom it turned out
had been a member of the Stock Exchange for thirty-eight
years. Moreover, Mr. Childs, of South Kensington, who
was defrauded by, presumably, the same man, was sure the
accused was not the man. Mr. Burly, the accused, was
therefore discharged. How careful one ought to be in cases
of this kind !

Window-smashing in Town being rather quiet, a country-
man tried his hand at it the other day at Wakefield.

A lock-up shop belonging to Miss Anderson in the
Arcade, Harrogate, was burglarized, and a number of
watches stolen therefrom. The thief, or as it is believed,
two thieves, are still at large.

A man was locked up the other day in Vienna for offering
a quantity of diamonds and fine rubies, as his tale that
they belonged to the King of Siam, who had commissioned
him to sell them, was not believed. Subsequently his story
received corroboration. The jeweler is now very sorry, but
the agent has had enough of Vienna and is trying Paris.

Madame Lacroix, the young widow who accompanied
the Paris jeweler's son, after his theft of 860,000 francs'
worth of jewelry belonging to his mother, has been
sentenced to four months' imprisonment as an accomplice.

.1 llistnri/ of Watches and otlier Timekeeper a. By James
Francis Kendal. London : Crosby Lockwood and
Son, 1892. 2s. (id.
The object of this book is probably to bring before the
public in greater prominence the name of the firm of
Kendal and Dent, and if so, we have no hesitation in
prophesying a good success, as it no doubt contains more
information in connection with time and timekeepers, in a
popular form, than any other book that has appeared.
There are hundreds of items and facts scattered through
its pages which must not only prove interesting to the
public at large, but ought to be known by every member
of the trade — both workman and salesman — although we
sadly fear they are not. It is lamentable how little is
known by the ordinary salesman (who is the only public
expositor of the horological art) of the science that under-
lies the craft in which he is engaged, or the history of
the evolution of those marvellous pieces of mechanism
in which he deals. We should therefore advise every
member of the trade to procure a copy of this valuable
little manual. Of course it must be pointed out that we
advocate its claims upon the foregoing hypothesis, and not
viewing it as a trade handbook. If we were dealing with it
as the latter we should perhaps be inclined to criticise rather
adversely, as much of the matter is quite irrelevant to the
title, nor is the subject dealt with in either a scientific or
a historic manner. The most is made of facts with which
the writer is best familiar ; whilst others of infinitely greater
importance are not even referred to, almost every action of
the firm above-named is chronicled. Names of men whose
absolute inventions will be carried down to the end of time,
inasmuch as they have been factors in the evolution of
the various orders of time-measurers of to-day, are not
even mentioned, although the exclusion of them forms
' ' missing links ' ' in the phylogeny of those mechanical
marvels which to-day are regulating the actions of most of
the inhabitants of the civilised world, checking the motions
of the orbs of space, and revealing to man the secret
operations of Nature.

Observations of the Choice of Spectacles. By Alfred Chad-
burn Bros., Opticians, Albion Works, Nursery Street,
Sheffield.
At least since the days of " the great Exhibition " the
trade and the public have been familiar with the old
Sheffield firm who edit the above little guide, which as the
years have rolled by has called for new editions, until the
tenth is now before us. As each of them have been of 5,000
each it speaks for the popularity the work has enjoyed,
containing, as it does, hints useful to all wearers and vendors
of the assisters of impaired or imperfect vision.

Talking of optics reminds us of the fine catalogue issued
by Messrs. F. Darton and Co., 112, St. John Street Road,
E.C., so long known at No. 45, St. John Street. The new
large premises have been necessitated by the remarkable
increase in business which this firm has for some time been
enjoying. The catalogue, too, is correspondingly enlarged,
and contains descriptions of almost every description of
optical instrument and accessories ; it also includes many
electrical and philosophical sundries, and is well illustrated.

On May 1st the American Waltham Watch Company
will part with the gold-case shop in Bond Street, New
York, confining its attention to movements. Messrs.
Bobbins and Appleton will then remove to the magnificent
offices, 23, Maiden Lane.

May 2, 1892.]

THE WATCHMAKER, JEWELER AND SILVERSMITH.

229

CAUTION.—/'"*"*' '"' distinctly understood (kaUin giving the Official Gazette
iformntian, we take i>pic;,,l records as wefind them, mi, I accept n<> responsibility for
■accuracies, while as in, almost invaridbh rule the facts will h, found correct.

Administration Order.
Kilham, John Henry, Jeweler and Watchmaker, 167, Great
Jackson Street, Hulme, Manchester. ±'42 9s. lOcl. Ten
creditors. Mar. 24. No. 831.

Blakemore, Hugh
downe Street,
mingham, and
Huddersfield.
tion : Apl. 29.

List of Creditors

Bankruptcy Record.

Henry, Manufacturing Jeweler, 84, Lans-

Winson Green, and 10, Tenby Street, Bir-

Adelaide Place, Blackpool, late 18, Westgate,

First Meeting : Apl. 7. Public Examina-

£ s.

Newinark, M. ...

London

81 17

Appleby. A., and Co

Birmingham

82 11

Backmann, E. ...

23 12

Durbon and Co.

21 18

Levetus Bros. ...

80 0

Swann, —

20 8

Trawford, T. B

24 12

Wall, T

27 16

Wright, L. J

Manchester

156 16

Partly Secured Cr

editor.

Sandes, G. H. ...

Derby
and Jeweler,

84 2
84, Geoi

Brittox, John James, Watchmaker

■ge

Street, South Stockton. Adjudication : Mar. 12

Furtwangler, Francis Adolph, Watchmaker and Jeweler, 24,
Green Street, Neath. First Meeting : Apl. 1. Public
Examination : Apl. 5.

Obenauf, William, Watchmaker and Jeweler, 23a, Bank Street,
and in lodgings at 5, North Street, Holm Head, Carlisle.
Beceiving Order and Adjudication : Mar. 17. First Meet-
ing : Apl. 4. Public Examination : Apl. 4.

Pybcs, William, Watchmaker, now Pedlar, Wisbech, late 27,

High Street, Wisbech. Adjudication : Mar. 22. First
Meeting : Apl. 2. Public Examination : Apl. 20.
List of Creditors —

£ s. d.

Cohen and Son ... ... ... Birmingham 120 0 0

Harris and Co. ... ... ... ,, 35 0 0

Nott, S. L „ 186 0 0

Sloane and Carter ... ,, 70 0 0

Williams, William Courtenay (trading as Wordley
pany), Goldsmith and Jeweler, 56, Lord Street,

and Bushmoor, Penkett Boad, Liscard. First
Apl. 7. Public Examination : Apl. 7.

List of Creditors —

Betzemann and Sons... ... ... London

Brock well and Sons ... ... ... ,,

Ehrmann, B. ... ... ... ... ,,

Eadv, Parrs, and Eadv ... ... ,,

Holland. Aldwinkle, and Slater ... ,,

Henry, B. L

Harris, C. S. ... ... ... ... ,,

Isaac, A. and J. ... ... ... ,,

Keean, M., and Co. ... ... ... ,,

Little. James, and Co. ... ... ,,

Paton, A. H

Smith, J., and Son ... ... ... ,,

Walter, W. H.

Barker Bros. ... ... ... ... Birmingham

Blankensee and Son ... ... ... ,,

Deaken and Francis ... ... ... ,,

Harwood, Plante, and Co. ... ... ,,

Pembroke and Dingley ,,

Thomason and Nephew ... ... ,,

Boam, B. ... ... ... ... Brighton

and Corn-
Liverpool,
Meeting :

£ s.
36 10

76 18
80 11

328 0
578 0

134 5
85 10

135 0
41 16

214 19
107 16

3
0

6
11

69 18 10
75 14 0
42 15

294
52
46

84
15

0
6
2
0
10
0

Fingera, —
Hardisty, Frank
Walmsley, G. G.
Beaugam, V. ...
Hutton, William, and Sons
Martin, Hall, and Co.
Wilkinson, H., and Co.

Parti;/ Secured Creditors.
Chandley, J. E.
Bankers' Claims

Preferential Creditor
Littler, J.

Deeds of Arrangement.

Barber, Bichard Gibson, Watchmaker and Jeweler, 20, North-
gate, Darlington, Durham. Trustee : C. T. Appleby, 11,
King William Street, Huddersfield, C.A. Dated Apl. 8 ;
filed Apl. 11 ; unsecured liabilities, £'355 lis. ; estimated
net assets, £'364 4s. 6d.

List of Creditors —

Liverpool

155

Paris

Sheffield

169

•clitors.
Crawley

2,795

itor.

Tranmere

260

Austin and Steeley
Cohen, J., and Sons
Mott and Co. ...
Newsome and Co.
Brash, Isaac ...
Myers, Joseph...
Barber, Mrs. ...

Birmingham

Coventry
Leeds
Manchester
Darlington

£ s. d.

39 2 0

14 14 0

35 0 0

21 2 0

30 0 0

19 0 0

55 0 0

London

132

))

150

))

147

Kew

Egham

207

Bryant, Charles, Jeweler, 33, New Bond Street, W., and 31,
Dulka Boad, Battersea Bise, Middlesex. Trustee : J. C.
Jackson, Vincent Boad, West Green. Secured creditors,
£255 15s. lOd. Dated Apl. 9 ; filed Apl. 14 ; unsecured
liabilities, £1,098 10s. 6d. ; estimated net assets, £326 8s.

List of Creditors —

Hahn and Co. ...
Norman, A.

Schmidt, W

Norman, E. S.

Weimer, S.

Meyer, S. F., and Co.

Steitz, J

Cleatwood and Co.
Jackson, W. H.
Bridges and Fox
Smith, S.

Jardine, Mrs. H

Powell, F. S., and Co.

Heap, Thomas, Watchmaker and Jeweler, 3, Church Street,
Barnoldswick. Trustee: F. Hully, Colne, Lancaster. Dated
Mar. 24 ; filed Mar. 25 ; unsecured liabilities, £226 15s. Id. ;
estimated net assets, £70.
List of Creditors —

£ s. d.
Edmondson, Elizabeth Jane... ... Barnoldswick 103 12 4

Widmer, G Liverpool 19 0 0

Wragg, J., and Son Sheffield 23 0 0

Hesse, George, Watch and Clock Material Dealer, 57, Goswell
Boad, E.C., and 7, Seaford Terrace, Stamford Hill. Assig-
nee and Surety : Emil Wehrle, 47, Warwick Street, W.,
Watchmaker and Jeweler. Composition of 5s. in the £ by
two equal instalments, at three and five months from date
hereof, secured by a surety and assignment to him by way of
indemnity. Dated Apl. 14 ; filed Apl. 14 ; unsecured
estimated net assets, £344.
£

liabilities, £1,017 18s. 7d.

List of Creditors — «£ s

Basmussen, Webb, and Co. ... ... London 69 18

Jeannot, Paul ... ... ... ... ,, 24 14

Baden Clock Company ... ... ,, 75 15

Seckel, S. M „ 53 13

Wehrle, Emil „ 200 0

Merzbach, Lang, and Fellheimer ... ,, 31 16

Wellibald, Tweer, and Co ,. 206 4

■Tahresuhren, Fabrik ... ... ... Baden 65 9

Guigon, Julien... ... ... ... DAliermont 29 7

Moat, J., and De Cauchon ... ... Paris 27 3

Garsant, E., and Co. ... ... ... ,, 42 0

K'nlni, Adolph H Switzerland 66 11

•2 HO

THE WATCHMAKER, JEWELER AND SILVERSMITH.

LMay 2, 1892.

K.vri'KMAN. Eyman, Jeweler, '2. Elizabeth Street, Cheethain,
Manchester, and 99, Leigh Lane, Horwioh. Trustee: J. T.
Trotter, Brazennose Street, Manchester, C.A., with a com-
mittee of inspection. Composition of 8s. in the £, payable
Is. 6d. at three months. Is. (3d. at six months. Is. 8d. at
nine months, Is. Sil. at twelve months, and Is. 8d. at
fifteen months, from 'Shu-. 23. 1892, the last three instal-
ments secured by sureties, and the whole further secured by
assignmenl to trustee of debtor's estate upon trust until
default. Secured creditors. £280 19s. 4d. Dated Apl. 4;
filed Apl. 11 ; unsecured liabilities, £2, 518 Os. 7d. ; estimated
net assets, £435 3s. 9d.

List of Creditors —

Weill and Co

Allday. A., and Sons ...
Britton, B. H.. and Sons
Booth. E. F.. and Sons
Branckense, J., and Co.
Eulse, W., and W. A.
Kimdert, F.
Baum, A.

Hill, Thomas, and Co.
Kinder, Thomas
Rosenthal. Alexander
Ashworth, J., and Co.
Kaufman, Levi
R viands and Sons, Limited ...

Wright, L. J

Harrison, James
Harrison, Ellen and Ann
Bankers' Claims

London

115

Birmingham

107

201

219

Cheethaui

124

Coventry

163

».

358

Jerusalem

250

Manchester

))

Preston

104

224

Lower, Thomas, Watchmaker and Jeweler, 25, Market Hill,
Sudbury. Trustee : G. G. Poppleton, 26, Corporation Street,
Birmingham, C. A. Dated Mar. 28; filed Apl. 2; unsecured
liabilities, ±'496 lis. 9d. ; estimated net assets, ±303 2s. 6d.

List of Creditors —

Troup, J., and Son
Williamson, H.
Holmes, W. J....
Lower, Mrs. ...
Bankers' Claims

London

Birmingham
Sudbury

£ s.
83 0
26 18
23 0
250 0
16 0

Trott, Albert, Watchmaker and Jeweler, Wellington Street and
Crescent Rise, Luton. Trustees: J. Morris, 8, Melson
Street, Luton, and another. Composition of 12s. 6d. in the
£, payable by five equal instalments, at three, six, nine,
twelve, and fifteen months from date hereof, secured by a
surety, and further secured by assignment to trustee, to
realise in default. Dated Mar. 26 ; filed Mar. 31 ; un-
secured liabilities, ±1,064 2s. 5d. ; estimated net assets, ±687
lis. lid.

List of Creditors —

Harburgh and Co London

Little, J., and Co. ... ... ... ,,

Morris, Wilson, G. L., and Co. ... ,,

Stockall, J. J. ... ... ... ...

Thompson, J., and Son ,,

Humber and Co., Limited Beeston

± s. d.

29 14 6

51 0 0

34 8 0

29 3 11

31 10 4

70 19 6

Quadrant Cycle Co.
Trott, Miss E. S.
Trott, James ...
Blomback, C. ...

Birmingham
Luton

Ronsdorf

£ s. d.

28 16 0

480 15 4

25 0 0

24 1 9

Dissolutions of Partnerships.

Havvley and Son, Jewelers, 289, High Holborn. Mar. 25. As
regards Thomas James Osborn.

Negbetti and Zambra, Opticians, 11, Holborn Circus, 45, Corn-
hill, 122, Regent Street, and Crystal Palace, Sydenham.
Apl. 1. As regards Joseph Warren Zambra.

Notices to Creditors.
Dickinson, William Richard and Charles George, Watchmakers

and Jewelers (late trading as W. and C. Dickinson), 20,

Manchester Road, Burnley, and 26, Manchester. Road,

Nelson. First dividend of 6s., at 7, Grimshaw Street,

Burnley, Apl. 25.
Fraine, John Nelson, Jeweler, Regent Street, New Swindon.

Proofs by Apl. 9. Trustee : Official Receiver, Swindon.
Greening, Joseph, Jeweler and Watchmaker, 60, Market Street,

Longton, and 70, High Street, Burton-on-Trent. Proofs

by Apl. 22. Trustee : Official Receiver, Newcastle-under-

Lyme.
Grayson, Frederick, Electro-plate Manufacturer (trading as

B. Grayson and Company), 16, Garden Street, and 19,

Havelock Street, Sheffield. Dividend of 4s. 5d. at Official

Receiver's, Sheffield, Apl. 11.
Ripley, Frank Tarn, Watchmaker and Jeweler, Burlington

Street, Chesterfield, Derby. Discharge granted Mar. 3,

subject to three months' suspension.
Rosenberg, Esther, Jeweler, 162, St. Paul's Road, Canonbury.

Dividend of 7£d. at 14, Bennett's Hill, Birmingham,

Apl. 11. °

Taffinder, Frank, AVatchmaker and Jeweler, 40, High Street,

Rotherham. Dividend of 5s. 6+d. at Official Receiver's,

Sheffield, Apl. 11.

APPLICATIONS FOR PATENTS.

4,095.-

4,254.-
4,255.-
4,294.-
4,318.-
5,495.

5,559.-

5,666.
5,692.-

-" An improved pendant padlock fastening for bracelets,
necklets, and other similar ornaments," C. W. Male,
Birmingham, 2nd March, 1892.

-" An improvement relating to timepieces," M. Roelke,
London, 3rd March, 1892.

-"Improvements in aneroid barometers," K. Corry,
London, 3rd March, 1892.

-" Cross's electrical illuminations for clocks, etc.," W.
Cross, London, 4th March, 1892.

-" Improvements in fastening devices for brooches," C.
Kinsley, London, 4th March, 1892.

-" Improvements in watch and other keys, with compara-
tively small variable grasp," W. Whitehead, Man-
chester, 21st March, 1892.

-"Improvements in head frames for converting any
pendant or brooch, etc., into a head ornament," D.
Zimmer, London, 22nd March, 1892.

-" Improvements in brooches," C. W. Holmes, Birming-
ham, 23rd March, 1892.

-" Certain improvements in scarf slides, sleeve links, and
bracelets," E. H. Durban, Birmingham, 23rd March,
1892.

C$l@inuf(2i®{urim

ATLOR

Late JOHN TAYLOR. Established 1878.

?,£r:,SA GLASSES. FIELD & MARINE GLASSES, TELESCOPES, BARO-
METERS. (Special Fancy Patterns at Low Ficurcs). Thermometers Photo-
graph Cameras, Lenses and Stands. Spectacle Cases, Eyeglass Cases,
Lenses of every description, plain and linteu. Pebble
carefully worked, Repairs (same

rotde ®nd |>fiippe;rs ®mfy.

Eyeglass Cords
Spectacles. Oculists
day as received).

Prescriptions

Spectacles and Folders in every Pattern known to the trade, from cheapes
to the very best, in Gold, Silver, Steel, Solid Nickel, and Tortoisei-heJl. Speciality
In N on-Rusting Folders and Spectacles for Eiport Trade All the Latest Patterns
in Cork Nose and Easy-Wearing Folders. Special Terms to Large Buyer.

LHn''e™Gtan™da^ Specialite -High Class Workmanship and Finish, at Moderate Prices.

Complete Outfits supplied. Photographs of our Specialities furnished to Buyers on application.

Manufactory at 5^t, Tenby Street ISTorth, Birmingham

May 2, 1892.]

THE WATCHMAKER, JEWELER AND SILVERSMITH.

231

BUYERS' GUIDE

ARTISTIC SILVER SUNDRIES.

Pringle Robert & Co. actual Makers (not merely
Factors) at their Steam Works,40 and 42, Clerkenwell
Road . Children's Cans.Salt Cells and Spoons, Serviette
Rings, Apostle and Coffee Spoons, Cups, Goblets,
Mustard Pots and Spoons : Muffineers, Cream Jugs,
Sugar Basins, Tea Spoons, Medals, and Alberts, duty
free. Old Gold and Silver bought in any quantity
for melting at the highest market price. Silver
Goods sent out on approbation.

BAROMETER AND COMPASS
MANUFACTURERS.

Barker Francis & Son 12. Clerkenwell Road. London,
Wholesale Manufacturers of Pocket and Charm
Compasses, Aneriod Barometers, sun Dials, etc.
Illustrated Trade Catalogue free on application.

ROX MAKER.

Kettle, F. G. 9. New Oxford Street, and 11. Kingsgate
Street, London, W.C. Send for Price List, post free.

CHRONOMETER MANUFACTURERS.

Oram George & Son 19. Wilmington Square, Clerken-
well. Marine and Pocket Chronometers, all kinds
of first-class Keyless Lever Watches, Chronographs,
Repeaters, and Regulators always in stock.

CLOCK MANUFACTURERS.

Smith John & Son, Midland Steam Clock Works, Derby.

WllMns John & Co. H, St. John Street Road, Clerken-
well.

DUnOKD MERCHANTS.

Baekes & Strauss Limited 64, Holborn Viaduct,
London. — See Advt.

DIAMOND POLISHERS.

Ford & Wright Steam Lapidary Works, Diamond
Cutters and Polishers, Gem Cutters and Lapidaries
in all branches, 18 and 19, Clerkenwell Green and
Clerkenwell Road.

ELECTRO OILDERS AND PLATERS.

Horton J. & Son 80, High Street, Whitechapel, London,
one of the oldest and best firms for Gilding and
Plating. Established 1834.

ENGRAVERS.

Mitchell & Cooper Heraldic, Monogram, Inscription,
and General Engravers to the Trade, 58, Great
Su„ton Street, Clerkenwell, London. Articles
engraved while customers wait.— See Adut.

GOLD AND SILVER DIAL
MANUFACTURERS.

GOLD & SILVER REFINERS.

Harrold Chas. & Co. 2 and 3, St. Paul's Square, Bir-
mingham.— See Advt.

The Sheffield Smelting Company Limited Sheffield,

SHI Gold and Silver ( refined and alloyed) . Buy all

materials containing Gold and Silver.
Westwood C. & Sons 14, Hall Street, Birmingham.—

see Advt.
Day Edward 28, Warstone Lane, Birmingham.— See

Advt.

GOLDSMITHS, MANUFACTURING.

Bragg, T. & J. Vittoria Street, Birmingham, and
15, Thavies Inn, London, Goldmiths, Jewellers,
Diamond Mounters, Art Silversmiths. By Special
Appointment to Her Majesty the Queen. Royal
and ovher Orders and Insignia, Mayoral Chains,
Maces. Corporate Seals, Caskets, Keys, Swords.
Masonic Jewellers.

Ginder Walter J. 4>', Frederick Street, Birmingham.—
See Advt.

Goode J. & Sons Regent Place, Birmingham.— See
Advt.

Lucas Brothers 22, Hylton Street, Birmingham.— See

Advt.

Saunders & Shepherd Bartlett's Passage Buildings,
Holborn Circus, London. — See Advt.

Sydenham, A. 26, Frederick Street, Birmingham.— See
Advt.

GOLD WATCH CASE MAKERS.
W- Neal 27, Craven Street, Coventry.

JET ORNAMENT MANUFACTURER.

Jones E. A. Wholesale Manufacturer of Whitby Jet
Ornaments. A large assortment of the Newest
Patterns always in stock. Export Orders promptly
executed. Persons not having an account open will
avoid delay by forwarding a reference with their
order. Customers' Matcliings and Repairs with
despatch. 93, Hatton Garden, London, E.C.

JEWELLERS, MANUFACTURING.

Greenberg I. S. & Co. 22, Vyse Street, Birmingham. -
See Advt.

Jones T. Walter 48-50, Hylton Street, Blrmingham.-
See Advt.

Reading N. C. & Co. Warstone Lane, Blrmingham.-
See Advt.

Scott A. 62, Summer Hill Road, Birmingham.— Se
Advt.

JEWELLERS, WHOLESALE.

Cooper H. J. & Co. Oxford Street, London.— See Advt.
Walter W. H. Newgate Street, London.— See Advt.

JEWELLERS' ROUGE MANU-
FACTURERS.

Brown James & Co. Exeter, Manufacturers of the
finest qualities, chemically pure. Satisfaction guaran-
teed. Packed to suit all buyers. Samples and quota-
tions free. Agents wanted calling upon buyers.

MASONIC JEWELLER.

Kenning G. Little Britain and Alderpgatn street,
London. — Sec Advt.

OPTICIANS, WHOLESALE.

Botwright & Grey 13, Spencer Street, Clerkenwell,
London.— See Advt.

Raphael J. & Co. 13, Oxford Street, London. — See Advt

RING (GOLD) MANUFACTURER.

Hope S. 126, Vyse Street, Birminghim.— See Advt.

SAFE MANUFACTURERS.

Chubb & Sons Limited, Queen Victoria Street, Lon-
don.

Tann J. Newgate Street, London.

SILVERS TIITHS, MANUFACTURING.

Round J. & Son Limited, Tudor Works, Sheffield
and Holborn Circus, London. — See Advt.

Willis Mark & Son Rockingham Street, Sheffield.—
See Advt.

WATCH JORRER.

Ockenden S. Chronometer and Watch Jobber to the
Trade, 155, Goswell Road, London, E.C. Staffs,
Pinions, Cylinders, Conversions, etc. Price List on
application. Established 1887.

■WATCH MANUFACTURERS.

Baume & Co. 21, Hatton Garden, London, Coventry,
and Switzerland. — See Advt.

Clemence Freres 11, Southampton Row, London, and
Switzerland. — See Advt.

Guye P. & A. Farringdon Road, London.— See Advt.

Hargreaves J. & Co. Wholesale Watch Manufacturers,
17, Norton Street, London Road , Liverpool. Makers
to Her Majesty the Queen, and H.R.H. the Prince
of Wales.

Newsome & Co. The Butts, Coventry.— See Advt.

Rotherham & Sons Coventry and London.— See Advt.

Stauffer Son & Co. 13, Charterhouse Street, London
and Switzerland.— See Advt.

Usher & Cole 105, St. John Street Road, London
Makers to the Admiralty. — See Advt.

Waltham Watch Company Holborn Circus, London.—
See Advt.

WATCH MATERIALS.

Grimshaw & Baxter Goswell Road, London.— See
Advt.

Has well R. & Sons Spencer Street, Clerkenwell
London. — See Advt.

Swinden & Sons Temple Street, Birmingham.— See
Advt.

WATCH REPAIRERS.

Thiele E. 31, Vyse Street, Birmingham, Watch Re-
pairer to the Trade. New parts replaced quickly.
Special attention to jewellery repairs. Price List
on application.

Hayward, ff., Watchmaker and Repairer to th= Trade,
Newpieces by post. Complicated and FaultyWatohes
put in good order. G. Hayward, 90, Hatton Garden,
London, E.C.

xxm

THE WATCHMAKER, JEWELER AND SILVERSMITH.

[May 2, 1892.

MR. FREDK. B. BOX, INDEX TO ADVEETISERS.

[Agent for the disposal of JSlatc^malicrs'

anb JUtocllcrs' ^nsincssts.

SPECIAL FEATURE. —No charge whatever

unless a Sale ts effected, and no charge

to Purchasers.

Valuations made on Moderate Terms.

HIGHEST REFERENCES.

©fficcs:
64, Holborn Viaduct,

E.C.

Me. Box is instructed to sell the following
Businesses :

. Watchmaker's and Jeweller's in

University Town. Kent £130. Part of house
let off, produces £150 to £200 a year. Returns
£800. Jobbing- £1.50. Rest Sales, Stock, and
Fixtures, at valuation about £800. Furniture
at valuation about £200.

:. Watchmaker's and Jeweller's in

high-class Suburb. A very old established
Business. Returns £1,100 to £1,200. Com-
modious house. Rent £90. Part of house
would readily let to pay the rent. Windings,
£100 a year. All at valuation, about £1,300 ;
purchase arranged with £900.

. Watchmaker's and Jeweller's in

leading West End thoroughfare. Upper por-
tion lets off to more than pay rent and taxes.
A high-class winding connection attached.
Death cause of sale. Purchase arranged with
from £2,000 to £2,500 in cash.

. Watchmaker's and Jeweller's in

good district on the banks of the Thames.
Rent £110 ; let off £40. Average Returns £20
to £25 a week. About £1,200 required.
Purchase arranged with £600.

5. Watchmaker's and Jeweller's in

thriving neighbourhood, twelve miles from
London. In same hands thirty-four years.
Comfortable house, large garden and stables.
Rent on lease only £24 a year. Average re-
turns £8 to £10 a week. Windings £40. A
good jobbing connection. Ill-health cause of
Sale. £350 all at. An exceptional opportunity.

6. Watchmaker's and Jeweller's in

Oxford. Rent £30. Good shop and house.
Returns £450 to £500. Sale trade about £300.
Goodwill and fixtures, £150. Stock at valua-
tion, £300 to £350. An excellent opportunity
for a man with Capital to greatly increase the
trade.

7. Watchmaker's and Jeweller's in

thriving Suburb. Rent on lease £45 ; very
convenient and modern house attached. Re-
turns £500. Purchase money required about
£500.

8. Watchmaker's and Jeweller's in

West of England Cathedral Town. Premises
well situate in the High Street. Rent for
lock-up shop £35. Returns £350 to £400.
About £250 required.

9. Watchmaker's and Jeweller's in main

road, South London. Rent £80; let off £50.
Returns£6 a week. Jobbing £3 to £4 a week.
Windings £25. £250 all at.

Ahronsberg, Bros., Birmingham
Albo Silver Chains

Backes & Strauss, London . .
Baker, C, & Son
Barker, F., & Son, London. .
Baylis, Henry, Birmingham
Baume & Co., London
Berend, O., & Co., London . .
Bloxham, W, Birmingham . .
Borgzinner Brothers, London
Botwright & Grey, London . .
Box, F. B., London ..
Brown, W. H., Birmingham
Buyers' Guide

Carley, Geo , & Co., London

Chadburn Bros. . .

Chapman, Son, and Co., London ..
Clemence Freres, London
Cooper, H. J., & Co., London
Coventry Cycle Manufacturing Co.
Crosby Lockwood & Son

Day, Edward, Birmingham. .

Dilger, J., London

Dunlop, C. J., Birmingham

Edwards, A., Coventry

Electric Stores, Limited, Camion Street, E.C.

English, E., Manchester

Fattorini & Sons, Bradford . .
Flavell & Co., Coventry
Fletcher and Son, Stoneclough
Ford and Wright, London . .

Page

vii
xxi

xix

xxi

vi
xxiii

230

XXVII

xxii

xxv

xxvii

vii

xviii

xvi

XX
XX

10. A Watchmaker, established for Ten

years in a Manchester Suburb, with a jobbing
trade worth £200 a year, and some Sales,
wants a partner with £50.

Further particulars of i?.y of the above and many
others, gratis on application.

Garstin. A., & Co , London

Ginder Bros., Birmingham ..
Goldsmiths' and General Burglary Insur-
ance Association, Limited, London
Goode, John, & Sons, Birmingham
Gray, E., & Son, London ..
Grimshaw & Baxter, London

Gripper Thimble

Guye, P. & A., London

Harrold, C, & Co , Birmingham
Harvey, G. W., & Co., Birmingham
Haswell. R., & Sons, London
Heuer, Ed., Switzerland
Hewitt, C. T., & Son, Coventry

Hill, C. J., Coventry

Hirst, A. & S., Oldham

Holden. T., Burnley

Hope, Birmingham

Hope & Co., Croydon

Jeannot. Paul, London
Jones. T. Walter, Birmingham
Joseph, B. H., & Co., Birmingham

Kettle. F. G., London

King & Sons, London

Klose & Zeuner, Silesia, Germany

Koritschoner, D.

Kullberg, V., London

Lamb, H. T., London
Langdale, I., Whitby
Levi, S. M., Birmingham
Light, H., Birmingham
Linegar, T.

xx
xvi
xix

xix

xviii

xvn
iv

xix
iii

xvii

xxi

xviii

viii

xvi
x

ix
xx

viii

xvi

xxvi

xvi
xix
xxi

xviii

M
Mander, H., & Co., Coventry
Meyer, Anton, Stuttgart
Millward, W., Birmingham. .
Mitchell & Cooper, London
Moore, Joseph, Birmingham
Mott, F., Birmingham

N
Newsome & Co., Coventry . .

Oliver, J. G., Loudon
Oram, G., & Son, London ..

Parkes, S., & Sons, Birmingham ..

Pinfold, A. G.

Pringle, Robert, & Co., London ..
Pontenet, Switzerland

Raphael, J., & Co., London. .
Reading, N. C, & Co., Birmingham
Robbins & Appleton, London
Rotherham & Sons, Coventry
Round, John, & Son, Sheffield
Round, B. J., Birmingham

Saunders & Shepherd, London
Scott, A., Birmingham
Sell, H., London
Siegele and Bennett, London
Smith, J., & Son, Derby
Smith, T., & Co., London . .
Spencer, J., Birmingham
Spurrier & Co., Birmingham
Starling, J. H., Birmingham
Stauffer, Son, & Co., London
Stokes & Ireland
Sturtevant, T. T., London
Swingewood, A., Birmingham
Sydenham, A., Birmingham

Taylor, J. & H., Birmingham
Thwaites Bros., London
Townshend & Co., Birmingham
Trippliu, J., London
" Triumph " Lathe ..

vii

xxi

xix

11
xxi

xvii

xxvii

xii

XXVI

vii

xxv

xxi

xix

V
XV

xiii &xiv

208

xxiv
xviii
xxii

Usher & Cole, London

Vale, Wm. & Sons, Birmingham . . . . xx

Vaughton, Birmingham . . . . . . ix

Vacheron & Constantin, Geneva and London xviii

Wall, T , Birmingham xx

Walter, W. H., London x

Weill & Co , London xi

Westwood, C & Sons, Birmingham .. xxvi

Whitton, T. M., and Sons, London . . xxi

Wilkins, J., and Co., London . . . . iii

Winkles, W., Birmingham . . . . xx

'ITT' ANTED for the Coventry Technical
W Institute, a PRINCIPAL "TEACHER,
for the HOROLOGICAL CLASSES.— Apply,
stating qualifications and for further particulars,
to Joseph Player, Hon. Secretary, Horological
Section. (241.)

ALERT " CYCLES. First-class variety and
quality ; cheap for cash or on deferred
payments. Lists free. Agents wanted. Smith
and Molesworth, Freeth Street Mills, Coventry.

XjrANTED, by a Wholesale Firm in Swiss
Vy Watch Trade, an intelligent YOUTH
having a knowledge of Watches and of Office
work. Good references required. — Apply by
letter to S., Dawson's, 121, Cannon Street, City.

(W. 842.)

{JJatcl^akcr, $evHelev

jSilVcrjStir^it]}.

Entered at Stationers' Hull.]

Edited by W. J. LEWIS ABBOTT, F.G.S.

[Registered for Transmission Abroad.

Vol. XVII.— No. 12.]

JUNE 1, 1892.

[Subscriptior, 5s. per Annum. Post Free.
L fcingle Copies, 6d. ; 7^d. by Post.

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(Ufte Moraf of "taarge (^orT|paniex^.

HEEE are some excuses for our trade feeling
a little vain in relation to its connections
with large companies, for assuredly the
largest amounts that have ever been staked
have been for the object of winning the
materials we employ. Large companies,
however, may be divided into the following
classes : — First, those where the materials are fairly
obvious, but the conditions are such that they can only be
'worked upon a large-scale, and hence require a large
capital ; secondly, those where they 'are not so obvious, and
when it requires all the skill of the absolute expert to
predict with any degree of certainty whether they are there
or not ; and thirdly, where the material does not exist at
all, other than on the paper of the prospectus. Under the
first, we may class such operations as the De Beer's
Consolidated, and many of the large gold and silver mining
operations that have appeared. But, unfortunately, these
are very much in the minority. It is to the two latter that
most of the companies that are floated belong, and this for
obvious reasons. To obviate this all sorts of ideas. have
from time to time been suggested. A favorite one with
many is that we should have . a Government Board,
composed of the highest qualified independent men; to whom
these gigantic concerns should be submitted, before asking
the public to subscribe its millions.

It was the idea of many that these are lines upon which
the Royal School of Mines should have been developed ; but,
alas ! the authorities connected with that admirable
institution felt rather disposed to widen the curriculum of
subjects taught and drink deeper of the abstruse mysteries
of the operations of Nature than to be more identified with
mines and mining, until at last it was found desirable to
alter the name of the grand old institution, with all its
honorable associations, to the Royal School of Science.
That such a board of appeal becomes absolutely necessary
from every-day experience most people will admit. Nothing
has shown this more, perhaps, than the recent trial of
Bewick, Morewg and Alford v. The Salati Company, Here
we have a company launched upon the world with
hundreds of thousands of capital in such glowing
terms that every share is eagerly taken up. The
prospectus spoke of samples of quartz yielding over a
thousand ounces of gold per ton. Gentlemen whom we
must consider above suspicion were found ready to join
the board, and the whole world went mad over it, and all
this before one disinterested expert had been called in to
give an opinion. Subsequently Mr. Alford, of the firm of

231

THE WATCHMAKER, JEWELER AND SILVERSMITH.

[June 1, 1892.

Bewick, Moreing and Alford, London, Johannesburg and
San Francisco, was called in as being " the best authority
of the rocks of the district" and "a gentleman of
unimpeachable character." And what was the result?
Instead of there being a true fissure vein outcropping for
hundreds of feet, it was not to be found ; and the small
quantity of quartz obtained, instead of yielding gold by the
thousands of ounces, had to be quoted in dwts. ! Of
course, the report of Mr. Alford, in the face of what had
been set forth in the prospectus in the gMasi-geological
terms of those connected with it, and the assertions of the
honorable gentleman who assured the subscribers that six
figures a year profit were actually forthcoming, were not
favorably received. Even the press, with only a very very
limited exception, advocated the claims of the prospectus,
which were set forth in such scientific-soundinn terms, and
by such high dignitaries. Even to the last, although its
Peer and another director withdrew, its chairman fought
and sought and tried to show that Mr. Alford was wrong,
on the ground that he had not taken sufficient time to
thoroughly report upon the property, and refused to pay
that gentleman for his services. Hence the action. But
the jury, having carefully heard all that could be said in
favor of the company, and the existence of its thousands of
ounces of gold, without allowing the counsel to finish, or
the judge to sum up, handed in a verdict for Mr. Alford.

While we reflect upon the history of this great company,
we cannot refrain from drawing a parallel with another
that immediately concerns our trade, and upon which we
almost alone have had the courage to speak what we have
such cogent reasons for knowing to be true. Realising
how much the earlier histories of the two parallel each
other, we cannot predict a better fate for the one than the
other, despite the sanguine opinions of those we consider
to be terribly deceived.

(UHe (#n$iTfu.fe of Mining aniL
Mefaffurg^/.

T was quite a coincidence that upon the
day the foregoing important verdict was
given there should have been inaugurated
an Institute of Mining and Metallurgy.
Oddly enough, although metallurgy is
probably the oldest of the arts, socially
speaking, it has still retained the nomadic
existence of its first artificers, and has not been housed
in a separate institute, an honor acceded to its younger
sisters, engineering and architecture ; and we think we
may add to its juniors, agriculture ; for, although the
Hebrew legends make man first a husbandman, then a
shepherd, and then a metallurgist, we are not so sure
that this succession can be supported by fossil evidence.
Man was probably a hunter first, which taught him to
make stone weapons, which, in turn, gave place to those of
metal, and it is in association with the latter that we find
the remains of domesticated animals. But now this much
needed institution has been inaugurated — associating, as it
does, the brightest ornaments of the profession — we may
expect to see much practical good, and for aught we can
say, some sort of a board, such as we have indicated,
may eventually grow out of it. It consists of
members, associates, and students, its objects being
to promote the scientific development of mining and
metallurgical industries. It will, therefore, form a
place where new processes can be described and dis-
cussed and experiences compared. The scientific and
the practical will thus be brought together, and in
some of the rich harvests arising therefrom every
branch of our united trades may be able to reap some

b3nefit. We are disposed to anticipate from this Insti-
tution many valuable papers upon metallurgical processes
which will have a special value to our trade, and which
heretofore have not been read because such subjects
belonged to several societies, and therefore to no one in
particular.

Its first meeting was held in the theatre of the Jermyn
Street Museam (the old lecture-room of the Royal School
of Mines), on the 18th ult., when the President, George
Seymour, Esq., M.Inst.C.E., A.R.8.M., delivered his
inaugural address. It consisted of an outline sketch of
the history of mining and metallurgy, which means the
history of civilisation. After the meeting an inaugural
supper was held at the Criterion, where the professional
and scientific side were equally well represented. When
it is said that Professor F. W. Rudler — " the very finest
speaker of the day " — gave the toast, " The Institute of
Mining and Metallurgy," it is only natural to expect a
model, practical, scientific speech, thundering applause,
and a sanguine belief in the unbounded possibilities of this
Institution.

©Jfie Montana i)appnjrex*>.

tONTROVERSY respecting these gems still continues on
the other side of the Atlantic. A great proportion of
their champions, however, had better by far keep their
ignorance to themselves, as one is surprised to see upon
what slender ideas people will rush into print. By so doing
they only injure the cause they wish to support. There
are others who approach the question only from their
relation to the trade, and ask if anyone has ever seen these
stones on the market, as they have not been able to hear of
anyone who has. But perhaps the most telling letter that
has appeared is that of Mr. G. F. Kunz, to whom the
world is chiefly indebted for bringing these gems before the
public. His remarks are chiefly directed to quotations
from Mr. Streeter's reports, and the fifth edition of
" Precious Stones and Gems." He quotes the following
extract from page 200 : — " A few of them, however, were
carried away by wandering miners, and ultimately found
their way to Messrs. Tiffany, jewelers, New York, where
they were recognised as sapphires and rubies, and the fine
gem stones, after cutting, found a ready sale at good prices."
Now there is no doubt that is the most that has ever been
claimed for them, but Mr. Kunz says : "In regard to this
statement, allow me to say Tiffany and Company never sold
a fine blue sapphire or a ruby of pronounced color from
Montana. The stones were one and all only what can be
called fancy sapphires, less than 15 dols. a carat. Even
this rate may seem high, but the fact that they were cut
in the United States considerably increased the cost of
cutting." Finally he says : " Fine blue sapphires and red
rubies have never been found in Montana, and it is
extremely doubtful that it would be possible to sell more
than a very limited amount of these fancy colored stones
in the United States, and less abroad."

To us it appears a great pity that some of the trade
papers should be so jealous of the honor and credit of
America as to lose sight of what might be the interest of
their clients. It would not make an atom of difference to
the American trade whether the Montana speculation turns
out a dead failure or a gigantic success. It is capitalised
by wealthy English nobles who can afford to lose what
they have staked, and who will not distribute any more of
their wealth if the concern pays. The stones will come to
England under any circumstances, and here they will
have to be bought. We do not wish to be hard upon the
American press, as we probably have had more to do with
things of this sort than most of the papers on the other
side ; but it ought to have struck them long ago that if
really fine rubies and sapphires existed there, with all the

June 1, 1892.]

THE WATCHMAKER, JEWELER AND SILVERSMITH.

235

prospecting that has been going on, and all the hundreds
of thousands of carats of corundum that have been un-
earthed, at least isolated specimens of them ought to have
been found.

Although a hitch occurred in the settlement of this great
bargain, we are informed that it is all arranged now, and
it will soon be proved if our position is justifiable.

jfotes ^bout Jovup.

fNFORTUNATELY, with few exceptions, trade is but
little improved. I heard of one firm only, during the
whole month, who were behind with orders and run-
ning overtime every night. A firm in the very front
ranks certainly have not now more than one-third the
number of hands I have seen sitting at their benches.
One firm that I hardly ever knew to have a vacant seat
recently discharged thirty hands.

Jfc. -Si. -Mr

^F tP tp

Theee has, however, been a little gleam of sunshine to
cheer some of the manufacturers' hearts. I recently called
upon a manufacturer who turns out gold novelties, and
saw a good sized parcel that had just been selected for the
French Market. This is very gratifying, as some people
carry the milliner's idea into the jewelry trade, and think
that the finest quality novelties emanate solely from the
French capital. But as these goods were for the first
French houses, it is certain that they appreciate our
novelties and the quality of our work.

# * #

Theee is something about the best of them, which caused
a great American, who was credited with a superabundant
introspection, to exclaim, " Paris makes things for a day,
America for a month, but London for ever."

.v, .U, Jt.

TV* TV" TV*

Talking about novelties reminds me of the new brooches
that I have lately seen very much about the West-end,
both in windows and on ladies. By their style and finish,
and the materials of which they are made, I should imagine
they emanate from Newman Street. Although they might
pass under the name of wire-knots, they are not knots at
all, but mixtures of all kinds of knots and conventionalized
curves with re-entrant angles. Some of these are the most
charming geometrical figures that have ever been produced.
They are made in matt and burnished, or mixtures of gold
and platinum, and some new varieties of imitation
hammered work are also introduced with very pleasing and
novel effect. I hear from the retail trade that they are
selling well.

# * #

They have also been introduced with even more success
to the new chatelettes. The dangers and temptations of
the ladies' small ball alberts, as they dangled unprotected
from the pocket, became too evident, from the number of
watches that were snatched when the chains were so
exposed. In the new chatelette the termination is one of
these charming little brooches, which can be pinned into
any part of the dress, and thus hold the watch firmly, and
at the same time gracefully, and can accommodate itself to
any kind of costume.

* * *

When we look at some of the magnificent old enamels,
. carved agate, and various other snuff-boxes, which were
fashionable at one time, and realise their intrinsic merit,
we are inclined not only to forgive the pernicious habit
through which they originated, but are almost led to
lament its disappearance. It cannot be said our artists
are dead, and the arts all lost ; but in these matters the
want has been always the father of the supply. A few
years ago someone had the courage to introduce bon-
bonnieres in this popular form. These were silver, but

they have been increasing-in numbers and in quality until
now one sees some really fine specimens of real art in
these taking little articles.

T? TS* TV-

The latest of these are pierced and chased in gold or
silver-gilt, with mother-o'-pearl showing through the
interstices. They are usually of Louis XIV. and XVI.
style. They are finished in high art ; none of the so-called
modern antiques, which allow an article to be left with the
saw marks upon it. Generally, that style is only a cloak
for bad workmanship, and still worse finish, and 1 hope we
shall soon see the last of such suicidal rubbish, which is a
disgrace not only to those who turn it out, but to the trade
upon which it is foisted.

# * #

Numeeous presents have taken this form lately, in which
colored gems and carved stones have been introduced, with
very creditable and pleasing effect.

©Jfte Ma.rifetA.

DIAMONDS.

Amsteedam, May 24th. — Upon the whole there is but
little change in this market since last month. Prices
certainlyare lower ; Kopjes and rough are not finding a
ready sale, and none of the factories are busy. If it were
not for the several failures that have occurred in Paris,
which have made the trade a little careful, speculation
under the former condition of things would sure to be
going on, especially as we are nearing the Russian-
Asiatic fair of Nishui-Novogorod, at which large quantities
of good-sized stones are always disposed of at higher
prices than they will realise in European markets.

Paeis, May 25th. — The diamond market here appears
quite disorganised owing to the several great failures in
the trade, confidence is very much shaken, and little or no
speculation is going on. A few travellers are arriving,
and we hope from advices that the American buyers
will soon arrive, not only from the States, but from
South America also. Prices are very low.

London, May 29th. — The London market appears in
very little, if any, better state than either Paris or
Amsterdam.

IVORY..

There was a pretty good attendance at the last ivory
sales in London, but the market was nevertheless very
sluggish. In some cases East Indian, both large and
medium, were £5 lower ; billiard pieces about the same
amount higher ; smaller were cheaper ; most other kinds
were lower ; teeth, above 45 lbs., realising about the same
price as last sale. There was, upon the whole, a fairly
mixed sale, including rhinoceros, barbrosa, walrus,
seahorse, etc.

SILVER.

The extremely low prices ruling last month caused
some of the Nevada mines to close down again, as the
owners consider silver not worth raising at the price, and
that it could not remain under 40d. very long. During
the month there has been an upward tendency upon the
whole, but it was not till about the middle that it reached
40d., above which it has remained nearly every day since.
Nov.'s prices at present are 40f.

COPPER.

There has been a remarkable upward tendency in the
copper market, from about £45 to £47 10s.

TIN.

Tin has shared a similar fate, rising from £98 15s. to
£97 17s. 6d.

SPELTER.

Spelter has remained steady at about £22 10s.

QUICKSILVER
at £6 15s.

230

THE WATCHMAKER, JEWELER AND SILVERSMITH.

[June 1, 189&.

Birrnjr^fyam ]\[ot^$.

(By our own Correspondent.)*

WHERE is but little, if any, change in the state of trade
here to report since my notes of a month ago. So far
as I can gather from careful inquiries the gloomy out-
look then noted has not perceptibly improved,
although possibly we are getting somewhat more used to it.
Of course, the trade has now entered upon the usual
summer lull, and we cannot expect much improvement
for the next month or two. I must confess, however, that
the conditions are rather darker than usual this year, as
the depression commenced so much earlier, and the wonted
activity of the early part of the year has been lacking.

§TILL I have no desire to put on too desponding an
aspect, as on the whole things are, I believe, better
than might have been expected from the operation of
the long series of causes that I detailed last month.
The only thing I then omitted, as tending to a continuance
of the depression, was the uncertainty as to the dissolution
of Parliament. We shall experience no definite revival of
trade until after the General Election. This is the general
opinion of business men here, and it is one that is based on
common sense.

T HAVE no less than three deaths to report of prominent
fit men in the Birmingham trade during last month.
<aL First in interest, perhaps, comes the remarkable
robbery of stock from Mr. M. J. Goldsmid, and his
subsequent suicide. The next death is that of Mr. Allday,
sen. ; and the third, that of Mr. Thomas Prime, of electro-
plate fame. The firm of T. Prime and Son is one of
the oldest electro-plate businesses in Birmingham, and
it has long been noted for good work. Mr. Prime died at
a good old age, after doing good service to the trade. His
death, I presume, will not in any way interfere with the
business of the firm-.

some
freely

pNOTHER matter of considerable interest to the trade
p) is the extensive robbery of goods from Mr. S. Lyon,
L of Frederick Street, by his porter, a youth of about
eighteen. It seems that this young gentleman for
time past must have been helping himself pretty
to any valuables that came in his way, and con-
verting them into cash for his own advantage. A con-
siderable amount of cash — some £38 — was found at his
home, and although so young he had a good account with
the Post Office Savings Bank, his pass-book showing,
among others, one item of £30 to his credit. The manner
of his capture shows that his dealings were of a wholesale
nature, and also that he was getting reckless in his methods.
He took a matter of something over 100 ounces of gold to
Messrs. Lees and Sanders, refiners, asking them to pur-
chase it. This gold was not merely old scrap, but included
new goods, brooches, chains, etc., quite fresh from stock.
The character of the stuff offered them excited Messrs.
Lees and Sanders' suspicions, and they took it in, telling
the young man to call next day. Meanwhile, they com-
municated with the detective authorities, and on calling
next day, according to arrangement, the youth was
arrested by Inspector Dobbs.

IT is further remarkable that this same individual had
(It been in communication with Messrs. Spinks, of
1 London, offering them gold and gems for sale, and the
very day that he was arrested Messrs. Spinks had
written to the police department here, making inquiries as

* v.'e must not be understood as endorsing all, or necessarily any, of the opinions .
of our correspondent, who writes on his own responsibility.

to his bona /ides. These, undoubtedly, would have led
to his immediate detection, even had he not been previously
arrested.

}T is impossible for me to further discuss this matter,
as at the time of writing it is under remand. I shall
probably have more to say about it next month. Still
one is tempted to wonder how on earth, under any
businesslike system at all, the fellow could possibly have
got hold of the stuff in such immense quantities without
immediate detection.

J' RAISE my hat in deference to Mr. Councillor Adie,
* well known as the quondam senior partner of the firm
of Adie and Lovekin, and now giving his time and
businesslike abilities freely for the benefit of the
Jewelers' Ward in our City Council. Mr. Adie got in by
but a narrow majority, but as a" miss h as good as a
mile," a win, presumably, is much better. Mr. Adie had
to stand a good deal of chaff during the contest, about his
firm's "female labor " and "gas engine," of the rights of
which I am quite unable to speak. I do know, however,
that the firm has had much to do with the lowering of
prices and the cheapening of production during the last
few years. Whether this constant downward tendency is
really to the advantage or otherwise of the trade at large is
a matter open to doubt.

T? OCAL excise authorities are, I notice, looking after the
J|a Plate licence infringements just now, one or two
JLJ defaulters having been prosecuted. This is well, as
if the honest trader has to pay the licence, he is
certainly entitled to the protection for which he pays. I
hope the authorities will continue on the alert, or abolish
the licence altogether, which would be much better.

TAKE it as a bad sign of the state of trade when the
electro-plate people are quiet, and just now there is
much grumbling from this section.

8N the whole, the shipping trade has been very quiet
during the past month, although I hear of a little
stir in the Cape markets, while there have been one
or two Canadian buyers here recently. They, how-
ever, have not bought largely, their demand being for
nothing but novelties. I somewhat doubt the wisdom of
the Birmingham manufacturers so willingly sending all
their new patterns and fresh ideas over there, to be made
up on the spot as required ; for I believe this is what the
Canadian trade has come to.

J|U IRMINGH AM trade has been rather badly hit in the
M\ stoppages of Larrett and Co. and of Bowman. lam
J_J sorry to notice some very large amounts in the lists
of local creditors. How much of this can be put
down to pure misfortune, and how much to want of business
caution ?

JFj ATHER too bad this ! I was considerably amused the
hf other day at hearing of a cutting price list for repairs
x\ being carefully put into the letter-box of a neigh-
bouring rival.

3S8SS

A Swell Cranksman Surprised.— A respectably dressed
cranksman was recently surprised to find that his clumsy
operations had attracted the watchman who parades near
South Castle Street, Liverpool, and found himself in the
hands of the constable just as he had his booty packed up
on the premises of Messrs. Frodsham and Keen, into whose
shop he had entered.

June 1, 1892 ]

THE WATCHMAKER, JEWELER AND SILVERSMITH.

237

Sheffield jfotes.

(By our own Correspondent.)*

fHE consequences of the recent amalgamation of
Telephone Companies have not been long in develop-
ing. The National Telephone Company has just
issued a circular containing a revised scale of charges
and, as has been euphemistically admitted by the General
Manager of the said company, " it does not seem to have
given universal satisfaction." The absence of universal
satisfaction took the form of a crowded meeting of
Telephone subscribers held in the Cutlers' Hall, and pre-
sided over by the Master Cutler. The Chamber of
Commerce, which had previously discussed the situation,
was officially represented at the meeting. The obnoxious
feature in the new scale is a charge of one penny per
message over and above 1,000 messages per annum. As this
in the case of some firms means a rental of £40 or £50 per
annum (Thomas Firth and Sons estimate theirs as high
as £150), the absence of universal satisfaction is easily
accounted for. Although the report of the meeting takes
up three columns and a half in the local press not much
merely declamatory rhetoric was indulged in. Those
present were perfectly good natured, as Sheffielders in
public meeting assembled generally are, but meant business.
Negotiations had previously been opened with the New
Telephone Company, popularly known as the Duke of
Marlborough's, and it was now officially intimated, that in
the event of 500 subscribers signing agreements for three
years at the rent of £8 per annum, this company was
prepared at once to commence operations in Sheffield. An
organised movement was also initiated in the direction of
rescinding all facilities granted in the matter of way-leaves,
and as the Town Council is expected to do the same at its
next meeting with regard to underground wires, it will be
seen that, metaphorically speaking, we have got our foot
on the neck of the National Telephone Company.
Although no official intimation has as yet been given, it is
easy to see that the obnoxious circular will be withdrawn,
and we shall get our own way without calling in the aid of
the Duke of Marlborough. The National Telephone
Company will thereby lose prestige, but that is a matter
the directors must settle with the not over-wise individuals
who have advised them.

fHERE is, of course, another side to the question.
Sir William Long remarked at the meeting that he,
as a journalist, was under obligation to the National
Telephone Company for showing him what would
"fetch" the Sheffield public. The sally was received
with laughter, which shows that the sarcasm was only
partly understood. There has been, in point of fact, a
tendency on the part of business men to look upon Tele-
phone Companies as in some sort philanthropic institutions,
whose sole object was to benefit that deserving being, the
Sheffield manufacturer. It is one thing to take advantage
of a healthy competition to get what you want as cheaply
as possible, it is quite another thing to take advantage of
an unhealthy competition in order to screw prices down
below the paying point. This last is what not a few
Sheffield manufacturers tried to do— notably some who
aired their virtuous indignation at the meeting. In this
they certainly did not display much business shrewdness.
Even now they do not seem to have the slightest idea that
their own conduct has been instrumental in bringing about
what they evidently look upon as a catastrophe. The

* We must not tie understood as endorsing ail, or necessarily any, of the views of
pur correspondent, who writes on his own responsibility

latest indications are that the New Telephone Company
will come to Sheffield. The Sheffield public will therefore
have one more chance. If, learning wisdom from past
experience, they are willing to pay a fair price for good
service, all will be well. If not, then it needs no prophet
to foresee that they will be ultimately handed over to the
tender mercies of some monopoly, when their last end will
be worse than the first.

x*"r»^

SOT WITHSTANDING the depressed state of trade, a
considerable amount of business is being done in
cups, goblets, and other trophies. This branch of
the silver and electro-plate trade is steadily growing,
and as the season comes round for the numerous com-
petitions at which these articles are presented as prizes,
manufacturers find them a welcome addition to the sum
total of their orders. Even in quiet times like the present,
the volume of trade in these articles is sufficiently great to
give to business a certain amount of briskness, in which,
fortunately, most silversmiths participate. The best news,
however, for manufacturers this month is that the American
market is taking increased quantities of silver and electro-
ware. It seems that wealthy Americans like the English
patterns, and, despite the M'Kinley tariff, are willing to
pay for them. This, together with the orders that gene-
rally come in for the Whitsuntide trade, is sufficient to
give a noticeable improvement to the aspect of things
generally, however long it may last.

{SUPPOSE it would scarcely do to class a fashionable
wedding with the ' ' numerous competitions ' ' incidental
to the season of the year. Nevertheless, the recent
marriage of the Hon. Osbert Lumley, of the 11th
Hussars, brother of the Earl of Scarborough, to Miss
Constance Wilson Patten, daughter of the Marchioness of
Headfort, has been the occasion of the production of a very
beautiful silver tea service and tray, by Messrs. John Round
and Son (Limited), of Tudor Street. The articles, which
were of the " can " pattern and finely engraved, were the
gift of the tradesmen on the Sandbeck Estate. The
present was much appreciated by those most interested,
and was described by Captain Lumley as " extremely
handsome." and " both useful and ornamental."

ITpN appeal has been made by Mr. J. T. Cook, head-
^p master of the School of Art, for subscriptions
JMi towards the removal and completion of the
Wellington monument in St. Paul's Cathedral.
Alfred Stevens was in so many ways intimately connected
with Sheffield and its School of Art, that it is believed
there are many here who would be glad to co-operate in
this National undertaking, if the opportunity were afforded
them. I am curious to see how the appeal will be
responded to. Our manufacturers have not yet attained
that love of Art for Art's sake, which characterised the
merchant princes of Italy during the Middle Ages. If the
truth must be told, they are still a trifle Philistinish.
Since Sir Philip Cunliffe Owen praised Mr. Cook, the
council of the School of Art have discovered that they have
a good man at the head of the school. In like manner,
when they hear what such men as Sir Frederick Leighton
have to say regarding the Wellington monument, they
may come to the conclusion that Sheffield has reason to be
proud of Alfred Stevens. This is about as far as one can
expect the average British monied man to get in the
direction of an intelligent appreciation of high Art. Their
money, however, will go as far as that of the most genuine
enthusiast in the direction of doing tardy justice to
Stevens' noble work, by, in the first place, putting it where
it can be seen ; and, in the second place, completing it
according to his original design.

288

THE WATCHMAKER, JEWELER AND SILVERSMITH

[June 1, 1892.

§OME difference of opinion is being expressed as to the
wisdom of the action taken by the Sheffield Trades
Council in a recent prosecution for false marking,
instituted bj them. The prosecution, which was
against a London shopkeeper for striking the word
■• London" on blades which were proved to have been
made in Sheffield, was not taken under the recent
Merchandise Marks Act, but under an old statute of the
n ign of George HI. A conviction was obtained, and now
the prosecutors are being abused in certain quarters for
their pains. The contention seems to be, that to strike the
name of another town on goods made in Sheffield is not
quite the same thing as striking the word " Sheffield " on
goods made elsewhere. It certainly is false marking all the
same, but the question is, as to whether any particular
benefit accrues to the town from action taken in such
a case. Messrs. Bartlett and Sons, the Trades Mark
registration agents, declare that the practice is no offence
under the Merchandise Marks Act, and that the prosecution
had to have recourse to an old Act which applies only to
London in order to obtain a conviction. This seems a
strong assertion, but Mr. Bartlett offers to find a case if the
Trades Council will undertake to prosecute under the
Merchandise Marks Act, and as his offer has not been
accepted, the presumption is that he is right.

fHIS recalls the objection that was taken some time
ago to certain contemplated amendments to the Act
which, had they been carried into effect, would have
tended to exterminate that class of manufacturers
peculiar to Sheffield, the " little mesters." These men
exesute work for tli3 big firms, striking the marks of such
firms on the goods they make. Speaking by the letter
this is false marking, but as it is clearly not done with a
fraudulent intent it can scarcely be said to violate the spirit
of the Act. In any case, to make the practice penal would
certainly have the effect of improving the " little mesters "
as a body off the face of the earth.

WHAT the Trades Mark legislation as a whole, however,
is intensely popular is amusingly enough brought
out at the present on every political platform, where
men of the most diverse political views are each and
all taking credit to themselves and parties for what is
universally regarded as beneficent legislation.

ITT the third exhibition of Art Metal Work, held by the
«iV; Armourers' and Braziers' Company of London, the
^L industries of Sheffield seem to have been well repre-
sented. It is satisfactory to find that the art of saw -
piercing is not quite extinct, as Mr. J. Garrill, of Sidney
Street, has obtained a prize for a picture frame ornamented
in that way. Messrs. W. Hutton and Sons take the second
prize, £5, for hammered hollow-ware with a very chaste
vase, the designer being Samuel Sims Wing. Prizes for
blades were also carried off by two other Sheffield competi-
tors, who in the honorary judge's opinion were equal in
point of merit.

The Chicago Exhibition.

HER Majesty's Government have increased the grant
placed at the disposal of the British Section Com-
mittee from £25,000 to £60,000. They will thus dispense
with any charges for space at the Exhibition, and will
return to those exhibitors who have applied any amount
they have paid on account. Spaces will now be allotted
to these ; but those who now apply will have to wait
until the first applicants are satisfied. Our Trade Repre-
sentative, Mr. Julien Tripplin, will be pleased to give the
trade any information they may require.

(3[ofc|f*>mitf\jS>' Si>eae^oPent <#ru*>titu.l"ion.

N April 29th, the 59th anniversary festival in connec-
tion with this admirable institution was given at the
Holborn Restaurant, under the presidency of Mr. R.
Williams (one of the wardens of the Goldsmiths' Company),
in the unavoidable absence, through illness, of Mr. R.
Ruthven Pym (prime warden). There was a good attend-
ance of the prominent members of the Goldsmiths' trade,
those present including : Mr. F. B. Thomas (president of
the institution), in the vice-chair, Lieut. -Colonel Lambert
(treasurer), Mr. J. M. Garrard, Mr. W. J. Hutchinson
(chairman of the committee), Mr. W. A. J. Hickes, Mr. J.
J. Symons, Mr. H. Summers, Mr. J. F. Och, Mr. J.
Chappie, Mr. Mantell, Mr. W. Webber, Mr. R. Seeker,
Mr. J. Whitehorn, Mr. Walters, Mr. J. W. Thomas, etc.
A well-arranged selection of music, both vocal and instru-
mental, was given during the evening by some of the most
noted artists of the day. The loyal and patriotic toasts
were very warmly received. In the toast of the evening,
" Continued Prosperity to the Goldsmiths' Benevolent
Institution," the Chairman said 500 more or less aged but
deserving persons had been relieved by this society. The
pensioners might begin to enjoy the benefits of the society
at the comparatively early age of fifty-five, and he was
glad to see that many of them continue to receive the
payments from the institution until they were ninety years
of age. There were now one hundred and twenty-two
annuitants connected with the association, thirty-six of
whom were those who enjoyed extra pensions through
being themselves members of the society. While
the institution was open to all who were deserving
goldsmiths, without any distinction, at the same time
those who chose to be prudent and join it as sub-
scribing members were given 50 per cent, of their
subcriptions back again, in addition to the annual
annuity. (Cheers.) Mr. Thomas proposed, in warm
terms, the toast of " The Chairman," who in reply-
ing expressed his thanks for the kind reference of Mr.
Thomas to the Goldsmiths' Company. He next gave the
toast of " The President " in complimentary terms, Mr.
Thomas briefly replying. The toast of "The Treasurer,
Lieut. -Colonel Lambert," was then proposed by the
chairman, who spoke of the many years' noble service the
Colonel had rendered in the most practical manner to the
institution. His donations to the society during the past
forty years had exceeded £2,000, which was a splendid
example to the other members of the trade. In replying
to the toast, the Colonel thanked the trade in general for
the support they had given him during the time he had
been their treasurer. Times had changed materially since
he first took up the position, but he trusted the society
would go on and flourish even more in the future than it
had done in the past. He was very proud of his connection
with the society. The remaining toasts included "The
Trustees" (Mr. J. M. Hunt, Mr. J. M. Garrard, and Mr.
H. C. Lambert), "The Stewards," and "The Ladies."
The secretary announced subscriptions to the amount of
£380, including 100 guineas from Lieut-Colonel Lambert,
twenty-five guineas from the chairman, twenty guineas
from the president, and twenty guineas from Mr. W. J.
Jones.

Caught at Last. — At the Birmingham Quarter Sessions
William Adey was sentenced to five years' penal servitude
for stealing lemel, the property of John Turner Johnson,
Caroline Street, Birmingham. The detective further stated
that he was an old offender, but that he had managed to
elude conviction. On this occasion some pieces of iron
wire were placed in lemel, by which it was recognised when
taken to the refiner's.

June 1, 1892.]

THE WATCHMAKER, JEWELER AND SILVERSMITH.

239

Windows aqd Window Dressing.

By the Editor.

(Continued from page 219.)
now propose to turn our attention to
-window-stands, blocks, and trays, which
may be of any pattern irrespective of the
drapery. These fittings may be divided into
two classes, first, those for which a solid
wooden stand or frame with velvet- covered
front edges is made (Fig. 13), and into which
the various members (trays and blocks) fit ; secondly, those
in which the stand is dispensed with, and the various trays
and blocks stood upon glass shelves. Frequently the same
design can be employed either with or without a stand.

Our engraving shows an arrangement which could be used
with either, although not very well with the latter, as the
glass shelves would require too much " shaping." . We
will imagine the floor of the window either the proper
height or brought up to it by an inclined name-board.

Fig. 14 shows the skeleton wooden stand necessary for
such a window as shown above ; it should be " got out "
of one-inch pine, and all the visible edges, together with
the central recess, covered with velvet. If nicely made a
tool can be run round the edges, dividing it up into imita-
tion panels. In dressing the window the stand is first put
in, and then the trays and blocks.

The bottom front consists of four trays curved from back
to front, and slightly so from side to side. They may be
covered with cork before the velvet is put on, and the
latter stretched tightly over them, or the velvet may be
put on " full" all round, and fastened only at the edges.

Fig. 14.

Under the former arrangement articles can be either stuck
directly into the velvet, or attached by any of the usual
methods. Under the latter it is best to allow for the
number of pieces intended to be stuck, and divide the ful-
ness accordingly, alternating the brooches or whatnot in
the rows. The velvet is then drawn up into diamond-
shaped areas, the jewelry coming at the angles, and the
articles thus set snugly are elevated and prominent.
There should be a little more fulness from end to end

than from back to front. When the tray is dressed the
whole contents should be quite firm, and the velvet drawn
by the infoldings till it is quite tight, and in no way dis-
turbed by being shaken. If this is the case, the position
in which each piece of jewelry is placed will be maintained ;
if not, upon the slightest shake, they will immediately
appear out of symmetry, some falling one way, some
another. These trays are put in from the back, the fronts
catching against a stop; they are then elevated into
position, and a bolt attached to the bottom of first shelf of
the frame is made to hold each in place. Three small
slips of the same curve as the trays are placed in from
above, one between each juncture, and can be employed
either for any novelties, good rings or fichu brooches,
according to the nature of the stock.

The principal floor which follows these trays is slightly
elevated behind, and forms a very conspicuous position for
the display of anything special. The two
curve-fronted blocks form the ends of the
next tier; they need not be made of more
than half-inch wood, and the bent front only
a sixteenth thick, especially if it be cork-
covered. In the engraving these blocks are
shown curved in one direction only, and
standing vertically ; but they might be curved
from the centre to the side, and from front
to back, or the front edge might be made to
slope a little backwards. Each of these plans,
however, would be at the expense either of
greatly reducing the upper members, or, what
is even more undesirable, carrying them
further back.

The following two members are made with
lean-back 0. G. fronts ; on the block side they
can fit up closely, but the inner side can be finished to
a scroll. Illuminated from behind the top drapery, articles
on these stand out very prominently. The hollow must not
be too great, or it will throw the articles into the shade.

The sides of the central recess are made to approach
each other behind, and are covered with velvet. Three
double pairs of stops are inserted into these, and upon
these lie three shaped boards carrying necklets. These
form most imposing positions for such articles. It will be
noticed the straight edge of the shelf following the large
scrolls is broken by two small projecting plinths on either
side ; upon these could be stood small ivory cups contain-
ing loose stones, or small pin-stands. A small flange is left
between the edge of the shelf and the next row of blocks,
upon which can be put any small articles of jewelry or
loose stones, either upon the ledge simply, or on blocks.
Such a ledge forms an excellent place for pairs of diamond
ear-tops, sets of studs, choice little pieces of enamel, and
such like.

Upon the next tier there are six blocks, made similarly
to the end ones on the tier below, and "got out" of the
same thickness of wood ; hand holes should be cut behind
for lifting them in and out. The two end blocks are
curved along the front bottom edge, and from centre to
side. The inner ends of the two central blocks are curved
out so as to form a kind of dome over the necklets below.
This dais is greatly improved by running a tool round the
edge. Each two of the back trays can be separated either
with an ornamental strip, or one carrying brooches, or any-
thing of that sort. Little reference has been made to the
articles best suited for each of these members, as it has been
left to the various stocks to supply whatever articles they
were best able. This makes a pretty little window, and is
suitable for a variety of stocks.

(To be continued.)

Openings for Trade. — Servia is now a market for
Sheffield ware, cheap jewelry, and watches.

2 10

THE WATCHMAKER, JEWELER AND SILVERSMITH.

[June 1, 1892.

©ur Llncjorougipt Ma.fenaP,&.

The British Vice-Consul at Lourenzo Marquez reports
" There exist on the east coast, south of the Zamhesi
River, reefs of pearl oysters, of which the most important
is situated to the south of Chiloane, in the Bazaruto
Archipelago. The greater portion of the reef is within
enclosed waters, and, as it has never been regularly
worked, the pearls which could be found there must be of
considerable dimensions. The natives in the locality of
the pearl reefs occasionally find black pearls of great
beauty, but their value is absolutely destroyed in conse-
quence of the method employed in extracting them from
the shell. This method consists in placing the oyster in
the fire. A syndicate is being formed in Lisbon at the
present time for the development of these fisheries."

Further Supplies of "Mexican Onyx."

News comes from Chihuahua that a mountain mass of
very fine onyx has been discovered, from whose sides the
valuable product scales off in huge slabs like large slates;
86,000 acres covering the area has been leased by a com-
pany. The colors are the most varied known. Several
other finds are recorded.

What Colorado can do.

In 1890 the state of Colorado produced gold to the
value of £902,000 ; silver £4,051,000 ; lead about another
million ; to say nothing of copper and other metals. Last
yeir it made further extensive strides, and with the
largest and best supplies of hematite known, and coal at
6s. 3d. a ton, and petroleum up to eight figures, the recent
state of things in Old England do not look like making
her a formidable competitor with the whole world.

A Huge Opal.

" Not an ounce more," said our friend's Indian guide,
" the horse will never get down the mountain as it is, and we
could never think of finding another for sale. Our lives
are wrapped up with the horses." In another moment he
was round the other side of the horse. " Here, wait ! " said
he, " you must take off a piece or two of that heavy stuff;
we are overloaded ! " Reluctantly our friend began to look
over his specimens of opal in matrix, which he had been
buying from the natives round Queretaro, Mexico, with a
deliberation and hesitation that wore out the patience of
the Indian. " Look here ! " said the yellow-skin, " throw
that away, and bring what you got ; if you change another
piece I go and leave you behind." There was no mis-
taking his determination. Once more seated, when a more
annoying thing still occurred — an old Indian opened
his stock of treasures consisting of probably some of the
loveliest fire opals ever seen. But what could be done ? It
was a matter of life and death. " If you save them till I
can get back into this country again, I'll buy them," said
our friend. Unfortunately, however, before the return
journey, someone else penetrated to the locality in search
of the gem worth a banishment ; and as a result, there is
now to be seen in San Francisco what is claimed as the
largest opal in the world. It is still uncut, and from the
centre can be obtained a fine stone 3J x 2\ x 1 }> inches.
It is that variety knoWn as garisol, or fire opal — of course
the mass is several times as large as this. Before us at the
present time is one more than half this size, which we have
never regarded as large. But there are several kinds that
pass under the name of " Garisol, or fire opal." One is a
cherry-red clear bright homogeneous in hue. The other,
although of the same body hue, has harlequin flashings of
iridescent hues, which perhaps could be best distinguished
as harlequin-garisol or harlequin fire opal. We hear that
some have recently been offered by dealers round the West-

end under the names of the New Yellow Sapphire,
Brazilian Topaz, and several other names, which are
nothing more than the clear varieties of garisol.

Controlling the Price of Copper.

It would seem that speculators had not learnt a lesson
over the disastrous effects of the collapse of the French
Copper Ring some two or three years back, the agitation
of which has not even yet subsided, for we now hear a
" combination " is being formed in America to control
the price of this metal. A cable gives the following
as the figures which the great copper mines have
agreed not to exceed for the current year : — Anaconda
Company, 75,000,000 lbs. ; Calumet and Hecla,
60,000,000 lbs. each ; Quincy, 12,000,000 lbs. ; Parrott,
14,000,000 lbs. ; Clark and Bigelow (controlling five
mines), 65,000,000 lbs. This will exceed the output of
last year by some 6,300,000 lbs. With the competition
of outside mines — at the Cape and Chili in particular,
which will naturally be worked more energetically at the
slightest increase in price of the metal — we cannot see
much hope for the success of such a "combination."
They hope to keep the price up to about 6|d. per lb.

Production of Gold for 1891.

The following figures, showing the output of the precious
metal in the four great gold producing regions of the
world, may be of interest :— The United States heads the
list with £5,790,000; Australia is second with £4,769,000;
Russia comes third with £3,700,000 ; and fourthly, the
Transvaal with £3,005,000. The most remarkable feature
in this list is that shown by the Transvaal, which is but a
very small tract of South Africa, and is the youngest of
the gold producers of the world, yet it already comes
within £600,000 of the Russian output ; and there is
no doubt that, if the present increase of output is main-
tained, it will come second, if not first, on the list for the
production of 1892.

Aluminum by Electrolysis.

Another patent has recently been taken out in America
— this time by a New Yorker — for the electrolytic separa-
tion of this valuable metal from common clay, in a manner
somewhat analogous to that in which silver is deposited
from a silver solution in a battery. It can now be confi-
dently expected that at any moment a simple electrolytic
method will be discovered by which this metal can be
reduced from clay at a trifling cost ; it will then become a
formidable rival to iron. We are extremely sorry to see so
few contributions to this branch of metallurgy claimed by
this country. We remember some years ago procuring
specimens of cryolite for a gentleman, to be operated upon
by a man in this country ; his success, however, was not
appreciated here, but the invention was taken over to
America, where a company was started, which is now turn-
ing out the metal by the scores of tons. Recently the
German Government have given an order for ninetytons, for
the manufacture of army accoutrements. Aluminum has
been substituted for cast-iron in the specifications for the
dome of the tower of the new City Hall at Philadelphia.
It will save the expense of painting, and reduce the weight
of the tower by about 400 tons.

Soldering Aluminum.

The one great drawback connected with this metal is
the difficulty with which it is soldered. Numerous methods
have been proposed, and we have seen some very simple
ones successful. An American tells us that the difficulty
is entirely solved by using chloride of silver as a flux, and
although we have not tried it, we have seen a flux success-
ful that contained it. The chloride of silver is fused, finely
powdered, and then ordinary solder employed in the usual
manner with other metals.

June 1, 1892.]

THE WATCHMAKER, JEWELER AND SILVERSMITH.

241

Urari&crtlf antic ^otting^.

(From Our New Yoke Correspondent.)

Y[7HE lowering of prices, to which I referred last month, -
41® has been an overwhelming topic of conversation

throughout the whole of the trade on this side of
the Atlantic, as the difference is considerable, especially in
ladies' 0 to 6 size.

* * *

XjTHE Cyclo Clock Company, incorporated by E.
41® Erschell, C. W. Meyer, and E. Klahn, with a

capital stock of 250,000 dols., is to manufacture
electric self-winding clocks, in Jersey City, N.Y.

M, -it. •!(-

-re= -K* ~Jv-

TT7HE Gorham Manufacturing Company are adding a
41® new wing, 150 ft. long, to their present immense
factories.

TT7HE Meriden Silver Plate Company are also making

41® titanic strides, having recently increased their

capital stock from 45,000 dols. to 200,000 dols.

* * *

YT7HE latest marvel emanates from the American
41® Waltham Watch factory, or rather from a late
employe of theirs, who claims to have discovered
perpetual motion. He exhibits it in a machine that he
has made. Now is his time if there is anything in it. It
would be the lion of the fair.

* # *

f OFTEN read with a sort of mixed feeling the descrip-
tions in these pages of some of the pieces of civic and
other jewelry and regalia, but I believe that Tiffany
and Co., New York, have recently turned out two or three
pieces that would compare favorably with anything yet
produced in Birmingham. We don't often appear to have
the subject matter to deal with which lies at the disposal
of the British jeweler. But in these cases it was different,
and both being ecclesiastical the same material would be
open to all. The first jewel was a unique bishop's ring,
presented to Bishop C. E. McDonnel, of Long Island. It
is a massive Gothic ring of 50 dwts. The central amethyst
is one of the magnificent gems recently brought by
G. F. Kunz from the Urals, surrounded by sixteen 2-grain
brilliants of marvellous splendour. On one side of the
shank is chased in high relief Murillo's well-known picture
of the Virgin of the Immaculate Conception, and on the
other the patron saint of the bishop. Those who have seen
this charming jewel declare it is the finest ring ever made.

* * #

VTTHE other piece is a matchless cross over 4 ft. in height
41® and 2 ft. wide. In its centre it contains the largest
known yellow topaz in the world, attaining the dimensions
of 5J ins. in diameter. It is simply a mass of lovely gems
carefully selected by the expert, Geo. F. Kunz, many of
which are of extraordinary size and beauty. The cross was
designed by Louis C. Tiffany. It is for the Church of All
Angels on Eighty-first Street, N.Y.

* * #

TT7HERE is always one dominant passion that seems to
41® underlie human nature, and that is to have the most
wonderful and unique thing known ; but a Californian
jeweler, whose establishment was recently totally destroyed
by an earthquake, would no doubt have been content with
the ordinary things of life.

* * *

fS emeralds have become fashionable, they are now
added to the prodigies of Montana. One man claims
to have found one in one of the gravels, absolutely pure, as
large as an egg. Some of the Maiden Laners suggest he
means a snail's egg, but others affirm it is not an emerald
at all.

YT7HERE is a decided taste for emeralds, and numerous
41® up-town jewelers inform me that they have been
asked very much for them lately. Sarah Bernhardt
recently had a magnificent gold purse set with emeralds
made by Tiffany and Co., which will help to make them
popular.

* * *

0PTICAL business seems looking up a bit ! What with
the prominence given to the science by Dr. Julius
King's peripatetic lectures to the trade, and one
thing and another, many have gone in for side lines of these
goods.

* # #

\T7HE Harrisburg Optical Company has increased its
41® capital from 12,000 dols. to 100,000 dols.

*re* *7r *£

RECENTLY heard a case of a dog that decidedly had
a taste for diamonds, so much so that when its master
dropped a valuable one upon the floor the creature,
with canine sagacity, swallowed it before his master could
pick it up. Emetics had to be resorted to, which proved
successful ; but still Aaron Barrick thinks the taste is even
more dangerous in a dog than in a woman.

•U. -if. -it.

-re- "7r *R*

VT/HE plant of the Keystone Standard Watch Company
41® has been sold; one account has it, for 6,000 dols.,
which carried a mortgage of 50,000 dols.

-re- "a* '«*

XT7HE Elgin National Watch-Case Company has been
41® incorporated with 250,000 dols. capital stock.- They
contemplate doing a big business.

*-M. .At.

TT *re*

§N numerous parts of the country the early closing
movement has taken deep hold, the summer hours
being 5.30 all the week, with forty-five minutes for
dinner, and one o'clock Saturdays.

Jl GOLDEN opportunity has offered itself to Parson's
2^1. Horological School. It had about outgrown its old
location, and is now to be removed to the Peoria
(111.) Watch Factory, which will provide accommodation
for at least 200 pupils. They will have all the advantages
of the use of the Peoria Watch Company's plant.

YT7HERE was a goodly number of moves on moving day
41® (1st May) in the trade. The magnificent Hays

Building, Maiden Lane, now completing, will he the
location of many prominent houses in the trade, with the
Gorham Manufacturing Company upon the ground floor, and
the well-known American Waltham Watch Company on the
second and third floors. The building is, as many have
described it, a credit to the jewelry trade.

* * *

(31 SOMEWHAT new idea has been floated this side that
J&L would simply shock some of your aristocratic retailers.

The manufacturers are advertising their specialities
in the public press. Thus the Bryant rings are advertised
in journals read by three million of people every month.
It is believed the thing will, work here, as no retailer tries
to gull the people that he makes the things he sells.

%F v£ raff

fflNE of the heaviest gold watches and chains on record
IU was made the other day by a Maiden Lane firm for an
Alabama customer. The watch-case is in the shape
of an escallop shell, and weighs nearly 300 dwts. ; the chain
weighs 220 dwts. Affixed is a locket 1% x \\, carrying
a carat solitaire diamond.

Pressure on space necessitates the holding over till next
month of the article on "Determinative Gemmology."

242

THE WATCHMAKER, JEWELER AND SILVERSMITH.

[June 1, 1892.

^?Z22SZ!!i^?

(By Vaaeite.)

Kimberley, May 1st, 1892.

the present moment " Kimberley is out of
town," a large proportion of the notable
and prominent men being either in England
or elsewhere; but the "diamond city" is
none the less active for all that. The
Exhibition buildings have been pushed
along with titanic strides ; and, what is more, all space
has been applied for, and it bids fair to rival the most
sanguine estimations of its originators. The Machinery
buildings have not yet proceeded far. Here will be shown some
of the most important exhibits, such as gold and diamonds.
The Randt has virtually agreed to put on exhibit a month's
aggregate output, which I hope, and have good reason to
believe, will be 100,000 ozs. Of course, such a large
amount of money could not lie idle long, as even a month's
interest would be a nice little sum. But it is believed that
it will remain on exhibit for that time, and that a model
of it will be made for future use. One of the most impor-
tant features will be the exhibition of a quantity of the
gold quartz from the vicinity of Kimberley, of which I
spoke last month. This will be crushed, and thus demon-
strate incontrovertibly that there is other mineral wealth
around the " diamond city " besides the king of gems.
There are also other minerals that will make a presentable
show, and, let us hope, induce people to attempt to develop
these industries. As it is, the one thought is diamonds,
diamonds, diamonds !

But I venture to think that the great and lasting benefit
which will arise from the Exhibition will be, that it will
set people to make a thorough survey of the whole district.
What we want is not a few mere surface scratchings by
individuals, who depend upon the return of the diamonds
they get, but a thorough geological survey ; and this I con-
sider ought to be done by the Mother Government. The
British Geological Survey is now drawing to a close, and
there are numerous able officers who are now being thrown
out of employment. These would find a profitable field for
labor out here. Who, for instance, would have thought of
gold being found within fifty miles of Kimberley ? But why
should it not ? We don't know where to look for anything
here. It is said that the De Beers would be opposed to
such an action ; but, first of all, De Beers are not every-
body ; and, secondly, there is no reason to suppose they
would oppose the development of the wealth of the diamond
fields. That they do many things which really does
develop the Colony cannot be doubted ; but when they do,
it is said by many it is for their own ends. Thus their
recent actions in connection with the Chartered Company
are very adversely criticised by some. The affair of what
appears breaking faith with the largest syndicate in the
world has not been smoothed over, and under no circum-
stances will it have a good effect, even granted that it was
done by two directors without the knowledge of the board.
It speaks of a curious state of management when two
directors can do as they like with a half a million's worth
of diamonds. However, it is not likely to happen again ;
in fact, Mr. Rhodes has fixed a minimum price, with the
result of a rise in the price, and a large demand for the
next three months is anticipated. An important alteration
in their balance-sheet has been made, and it will in future
be made out up to June 30th so that the next balance-
sheet will extend over a period of fifteen months. For
some time prior to the departure of Mr. Williams, the
general manager of the De Beers, a motion was on foot for
the reduction of the labor to eight hours a day ; but
although he departed before it bore any fruit, it is certain
to be brought forward when he returns, if not before.

A clever catch of fourteen native I.D.B's has recently
been effected by the detective department, who set a trap
into which the otherwise wily natives fell. Another trap,
which proved a successful and amusing bait, was recently
laid for a man, who is said to be the private development
'detective of the De Beers ; at any rate, he is always doing
nothing except watching the movements of other people.
Having heard that Mr. Armstrong, one of the heroes of the
Wesselton Mine, was successfully exploring some new
ground, he tried to bribe one of the black boys, who forth-
with communicated the fact to his master. A plot was
laid, and the spy hied away by night to the appointed
place, where Mr. Armstrong and numerous friends were
waiting to duck him under water. He was further charged
with trespassing, and fined £2, in addition to the £5 he paid
the black boy.

Things have now settled down in Pretoria, as one might
expect, for five diamonds do not constitute a mine. A
three-carat stone was found the other day at Christiana.
The Vaal diggers are doing well in many places, notably at
Keiskama, Waldiks, and Gunggong, where stones of 61,
62, 65, and 72 carats respectively have been found. In
N.E. Bultfontein, during the four weeks ending April 30,
no less than 82,000 loads were washed, yielding 14,500
carats. The ground around and adjoining Du Toit's Pan
is being developed, as many as 150 claims having been
pegged off. The De Beers, however, maintain that it will
not pay, but this remains to be seen. The great nuisance
to most companies is the water at deep levels. In the
Augustine it is flooding them out ; and I hear that a
Cornish pump is on its way out here, so that Captain
Gilbert hopes to be able to keep it dry, or at any rate work-
able. The Gordon is in the same state, and no doubt the
mining board will be obliged to interfere, and make every
claim-holder pay a proper proportion of the pumping of
each mine in which they hold claims. It would only be a
just law, because as it is, a claim-holder before he can work
his own claim has to pump out the water coming from those
the monopoly have shut down.

I must not forget to mention that Contat, the original
concessionnaire of the Premier, has commenced action
against Ward. Poor old Ward ! Another new chapter in
the history of the litigation over this mine ! The Kim-
berley Diamond Mining Company have purchased the
mineral rights of the S. A. E. Co. of the Kimberley Estate.
The Koffyfontein, Pioneer, and Koffyfontein Central
Diamond Mining Co. were recently sold for less than a
quarter of what they cost. The New Jagersfontein is
finding well, and maintaining prices ; during March
11,850 carats were found, valued at £21,275. The Randt
output for March was 93,244^ ozs.

We regret to announce the sudden death of a well-
known and highly esteemed member of the Birmingham
Trade, Mr. John Allday, senior, which occurred on the
11th ult., at the warehouse in Warstone Lane. Just after
the workpeople had left for dinner, the housekeeper heard
a heavy thud upon the floor, and going up, found Mr.
Allday had fallen. His son, who was downstairs at the
time, was sent for, and Dr. Walsh was soon on the spot ;
but nothing could be done, and the unfortunate gentleman
passed away in half an hour. He was sixty-four years of
age.

On the 30th April Mr. W. Pringle, of Wilderness
Works — a name familiar to all readers of this journal
■ — came of age, which event was celebrated by high
festivities, some sixty of the employes being taken to the
Albany Hotel, Thames Ditton, and entertained at a well-
served feast. After dinner various sports were indulged in,
and in the evening a musical entertainment, helped dcwn
with the cup that cheers, interspersed with a few short and
appropriate speeches, brought to a close one of the happiest
days ever spent by many of them.

June 1, 1892.]

.THE WATCHMAKER, JEWELER AND SILVERSMITH.

243

Eye Glasses. — Leonhaed Rubel, New York, N.Y.

In a pair of eye-glasses, the combination, with the
glasses, of a transverse piece having a curved rest, and

cushioning pads applied to the rear ends of fulcrumed and
spring actuated arms pivoted to the transverse piece.

Opera Glass Attachment. — Charles H. Teuax,
Chicago, III.

The combination, with an opera glass having adjustable
lenses and means for adjusting the focus thereof, of a
separate handle having jaws adapted to engage the glass

and provided with adjusting devices adapted to engage
the adjusting devices on tlie glass to regulate the focus of
the lenses.

Watch Regulator.— Simon L. Gaaedee, Starbuck, Minn.

A watch regulator which is provided with a part for

supporting the curb pins that
is separately constructed and
is independently movable upon
or around the pivotal centre
of the regulator bar or pointer
to permit an adjustment of
the hairspring without moving
the bar or pointer.

Watch Regulator. — Simon L. Gaaedee, Starbuck, Minn.,
assignor of one-third to Knut L. Brevig, same place.

In combination with a regulator arm, a screw threaded
shaft or arbor adapted to move the same, a worm wheel on

such arbor, a worm meshing
with it, having one end
reduced and passed through
a supporting plate, and the
locking ring seated in an
annular groove in said re-
duced end beneath the sup-
porting plate.

Opera Glass. — Carl F. Glockee, Albany, N. Y.

The combination, with an opera glass composed of stationary

tubes and movable tubes which slide telescopically and
whose movable tubes are con-
nected, either directly or indirectly,
to toothed gearing of a handle
for said glass, provided with a
segment gear which is pivoted to
said handle and fitted to mesh
into the gearing of said movable
tubes, said segment gear having a

lever fitted to be operated by a finger of the hand of the

user.

Watch Bow Fastener. — Olof Johanson, New York,
N.Y., assignor to the Keystone Watch Case Company,
Philadelphia, Pa.

The combination, with the sleeve or stem provided with
sockets for the reception of the ends of the ring, of the
ring having its ends grooved, and pins extending through

the sleeve or stem within its wall and through the grooves
in the ends of the ring, said pins extending transversely to
the axes of the sockets and transversely to the axes of the
sleeve or stem.

-$=K?Se

Mozart's watch, originally presented to the composer
by the Empress Maria Theresa, has just been deposited
in the Mozarteum at Salzburg. It is set with diamonds
of considerable value, and it was formerly the property of
Herr Pfeffer, proprietor of a large bathing establishment
at Buda Pesth. Herr Pfeffer died last January, bequeath-
ing the watch to the Mozarteum, and directing that it
should not be entrusted to the Post Office, but should be
sent by special messenger.

A gold nugget weighing 6| lbs. was recently found in a
cement mine, Brady Flat, near Washington, Nev.

The Irony of Fate. — As the thousands of visitors to
the Navalries gazed on the magnificent gilt vase presented
to the never-to-be-forgotten hero of Trafalgar, how few
of them could have been made to believe that before six
short months were over that priceless family relic would
be seen exposed for sale in a jeweler's establishment ! Yet,
such is the irony of fate, that has decreed that anyone can
now have this prize for 1,000 guineas. Its weight is
between 700 and 800 ozs. It is now in the possession
of Messrs. Emanuel, The Hard, Portsea.

Theee is an agitation going on in Germany for the in-
troduction of standard screw threads, instead of the every -
imaginable ones that are now in use in that country, in
common with many others.

A Me. Woetmann is said to have perfected an invention
which has taken him over twenty years to accomplish, by
which clocks can be made to run eleven or more years, and
has sold the patent to Messrs. Tiffany, which is very
possible. But in describing it our cousins inform us that
the great discovery can be applied to lifts, and even street
cars ; in fact, it is a sort of perpetual motion !

Accoeding to V Industrie Electrique, a Havre jeweler, who
has an alternate-current transformer installed in the base-
ment underneath his shop, has placed an iron grating over
it, and in this way warms his premises largely at the
electricity supply company's expense. To this the
Electrician replies, that the Havre jeweler who warms
his shop with an alternate-current transformer affords
another example of the interest which is being taken
in electrical heating for domestic purposes. Without
going so far from home, we could point out a trans-
former chamber in London, constructed, as it should be,
of thoroughly fire-proof materials, where a thermometer
hung on the brick wall indicates 115" Fahr.

The Sancy diamond has recently appeared under yet
new conditions. It was exhibited the other evening by
Mr. J. Garrard — whose name is associated with more than
one historic stone — before the Society of Antiquaries, when
some of its remarkable adventures were detailed.

Xlll

THE WATCHMAKER, JEWELER AND SILVERSMITH.

[June 1, 1892.

Telegraph Address-SYDEJMHAjVI, (31 RjVl I NGH AjVl.

Telephone Address— 4,059.

WtiolEsalE & Manufacturing Jeweller,

Ai SYDENHAM, 26, Frederick St., BIRMINGHAM,

For Home and Export.

GOLD AND SILVER WALTHAM WATCHES

OF EVERY DESCRIPTION.

ENGLAND.

A Large Stock of these Splendid Watches to suit all Districts.

(ALL WATCHES HAVE COMPENSATION BALANCES, AND HAVE CRYSTAL GLASSES, AND, IN MOST CASES, BREQUET SPRINGS.)

Gentlemen's Matches.

winding KeyleSS|HUnteP

Xac-ies' Wlatcbes.

wiping Keyless Huntep

Silver Open Face Snap Cases, from -

£1 12 9

Silver Open Face, from -

£1 18 9

- -

Silver Open Face Spring Cases, from - - -

1 13 9

—

Silver Hunters, from ....

—

— 2 1 6

Silver Hunters, from -

■ —

—

2 0 6

Gold 1 0 carat Open Face, from

3 8 0

— —

G Id 10 carat Open Face. /i-o»; -

4 13 0

—

— ■

Gold 10 carat Hunters, from ...

. —

— 14 6 0

G-old 10 carat Hunters, from - - - -

—

5 17 0

Gold 10 carat Open Face, Keyless, from -

4 2 0; —

G-jld 10 carat Open Face, Keyless, from -

—

5 8 0

Gold 10 carat Keyless Hunters, from

—

— 500

Gold 10 carat Keyless Hunters, from

—

— i 6 10 0

Gold 18 carat Open Face, from - - -

5 19 P

— 1 —

Gold 18 carat Open Face, from -

8 2 0

— 1 —

Gold 18 carat Hunters, from -■-*•--

—

— ! 7 2 0

&old 18 carat Hunters, from -

—

— 10 8 0

Gold 18 carat Keyless, Open Face, from -

. —

6 8 0

—

Gold 18 carat Keyless, Opan Face, from -

—

9 17 0, —

Gold 18 carat Keyless Hunters, from

—

7 12 0

Gold 18 carat Keyless Hunters, from

—

— 12 0 0

GOLD AND SILVER WALTHAM WATCHES OF ALL THE BEST SELLING GRADES IN STOCK.

WALTHAM WATCHES FOR LADIES, Hunter, Half-Hunter, Open Faoe, Keyless, Plain, Engraved, Fancy
and Enamelled Cases, 18-et and 10-et., Gold guaranteed, and Hall-marked Silver.

A. SYDENHAM, Wholesale Jeweller, 26, Frederick Street, BIRMINGHAM, ENGLAND.

June 1, 1892.]

THE WATCHMAKER, JEWELER AND SILVERSMITH.

xiv

Telegraph Address-SYDEJMHAJVI, BIRJVUNGHAJVr.

Telephone Address— 4,059.

A. SYDENHAM

Wholesale & Manufacturing Jeweller,

26, Frederick St., BIRMINGHAM,

^or Home zincL Export. ENGLAND.

SYDENHAM'S
SET

DIAMOND and GEM
BROOCHES.

These
diamond and gem
set Gold Butter-
fly Brooches are
the prettiest
things ever made.
Pearl bodies as
sketch, 75/- each.
Can he used as
brooch or hair
ornament.

18-ct., 15-ct., 9-ct., and Silver Link Suites:
Studs and Collars of every description.

A. SYDENHAM

for MEDALS

For Athletic Sports,

Skating, Yachting,

Boating, Curling,

Golfing, Swimming,

Shooting, &c.

Agricultural Shows.

Boot, Bird, Dog,
Rabbit, Horse, Bee,

Pigeon, Canary,
Poultry Shows, &c.

DRAWINGS and
PRICES

On Application.

BRACELETS AND BANGLES
Of every description, from the cheapest to the most

This is the great house for

GOLD AND SILVER

THIMBLES.

Silver Hall-marked Thimbles,
7/6 to 18/- per dozen.

The New Dorcas Thimbles,

same as drawing, and other pretty

designs, 21/- per dozen.

Plain Pattern, 17/- per dozen.

DAISY.

DIAMOND GOODS of every description.

Ladies' Diamond Rings, £1 to £20.

Gentlemen's Diamond Rings, £5 to £40.

Diamond Fichu Brooches.

Diamond Spray Brooches.

DIAMOND PINS from the cheapest to
the most expensive.

Keepers— 1 8-Carat— To those of my friends at
home and in the Colonies who have not yet
seen my splendid selection of 18-ct. Keepers,
I ask them to take an early opportunity of
buying samples of these choice goods at the
most reasonable prices.

Keepers — 9-Carat — The finest stock of 9-ct.
Keepers in the Trade.

RINGS MY GREAT SPECIALITY.

LADIES' RINGS of the most choice
description. I have one of the largest
and best selections of Ladies' Gem Rings
and Engagement Rings in the trade.
Over 5,000 to choose from.

Ladies' Half-Hoop Gem
Rings — All Diamond, 30/-
to £50 ; Diamond and Ruby,
25/- to £50

Ladies' Boat Set. Diamond
Rings at all prices.

Ladies' Diamond and Gem Set Rings

of every other description, 15/- to £25.

Ladies' 15-ct. Engagement

Rings, same as drawing, and

other pretty designs ; sell

very well. Real Diamond.

12/6 each.

Ladies' 15-ct. Ruby and
Pearl Gem Rings, like draw-
ing, and various other most
saleable patterns. 12/6 each.

Gentlemen's Diamond Rings

at all prices.

Gentlemen's 18-ct., 15-ct., and 9-ct. Signet Rings

in great variety.

Special attention given to orders for
MASONIC JEWELS, SPECIAL
PIECES, PRESENTATION KEYS,
PRESENTATION JEWELLERY,
and OFFICIAL JEWELS of all
kinds.

NEWEST DESIGNS OF 9-CT. HALL-MARKED BROOCHES.

Special Line of 9-ct. Hall-Marked Brooches, various patterns, as drawings, and other pretty designs, all at 5/9 each.

These Brooches with Earrings to match, 8/9 per set.
SIMILAR BROOCHES, but larger size, 9-ct, Hall-Marked ... ... ... ... ..." ... ... 8/3 each.

,, ,, ,, with Earrings to match ... ... ... ... ... ... ... 11/3 per set.

A large variety of all the most fashionable and b:st value patterns in 9-ct. Gold Brooches always in stock.

A. SYDENHAM

gives special attention to all Colonial QC Ppprlppirk Qtpdq+
Letters, and will be pleased to receive ^UJ ' ioUCMOIS, OlrtJtJL,

BIRMINGHAM,

ENGLAND.

Orders, if accompanied with Cash or
satisfactory English References.

ILLUSTRATED PRICE LISTS ON APPLICATION

211

THE WATCHMAKER, JEWELER AND SILVERSMITH.

[June 1, 1892.

pings §|eW and §? obeWortjpij,'

Mounted Dak Goods.
We have occasion to call the attention of our readers to
the specialities of Messrs. Hammond, Creake and Co., of
Oak Works, Sheffield, who claim to be the largest manu-
facturers of sterling silver and electro-plated mounted oak
goods in the universe. This firm, who for more than ten
years have devoted themselves wholly to supplying the
local manufacturers, have now decided to open accounts
with the trade generally. A visit to their factory is very
interesting, as upwards of a hundred hands are employed
in producing their many hundreds of designs in this
fashionable and most useful ware. It would be difficult to
discover a retail establishment where their goods have not
been indirectly displayed. We heartily wish them success
in their undertaking of dealing with the retailers direct, as
we are sure the trade will appreciate this system, which,
after all, is the true lines upon which business ought to be
conducted. The expansion of this system year by year
shows us that it will be adopted generally in the immediate
future. Messrs. Hammond have a most comprehensive
illustrated catalogue, which they will forward free on
application.

Sun Dials.

We are frequently asked who are the best firm for sun
dials, the demand for which, according to all accounts, is
greatly upon the increase. We are pleased to be able to
inform our inquirers (and the information may also be
useful to the trade generally), that Messrs. Francis Barker
and Son, 12, Clerkenwell Road, E.C., have for the last few
years been giving special attention to the art of dialing,
and, by improvements they have from time to time intro-
duced in the various processes of manufacture, together
with new designs and ideas, they have gone a long way

ahead of any other firm in this branch of business, which
was practically dwindling away. They have now a separate
catalogue of these useful instruments from under £1 to £50.
They have also practical men who could give estimates
and suitable designs for any kind of architectural sur-
roundings. The large proportion of the compass trade
this firm monopolises is well known, both to manufacturers
and retailers, although there may yet be some who are un-
acquainted with the dimensions of their stock.

Art Metal Productions.

Theee is a school of Art critics who hold that the highest
Art should be retained exclusively for the most expensive
materials, and who very often appear to justify their
assertions. If, however, they turned their axiom round, and
maintained that " nothing but the highest art should be
employed upon the precious materials," no one, with any

idea or love of the beautiful, would feel disposed to raise
an objection. But perhaps the best argument against the
former is furnished by some of the many charming specimens
of Art Metal Work that have been turned out from time to
time, amongst which those designed and manufactured by
Messrs. Townshend and Co., Holborn Viaduct, and
Birmingham, stand prominent. It is always an artistic
treat to stroll through their galleries, not only on account
of the display of high art treatment and excellence of
finish, but of the charming novelties that one finds upon each
visit. On our last visit we were favorably impressed with
a number of things, a few of which may be named.
Following upon the large variety of gongs this firm have
brought out, is a series of various designs in which the
new principle is the same, viz., the gongs of the West-
minster chimes ; sometimes accompanied by the "hour"
bell, in other cases by the " chimers " alone. Of these we

TVT; TiilTHtUTl'i^--

show two, with which it would be possible not only to
" fill the air with music sweet," but to convey one's wishes
all over the house. Another very pleasing effect arising
from the juxtaposition of copper and gilt is to be seen in
numerous articles ; one of which is here given —

The appearance of this mixture forcibly recalls some of
the choice old Oriental damasks. In clocks, perhaps,
there is even greater variety from the massive ' ' chimers ' '
of every style of art down to the small but, nevertheless,
very elegant and effective little articles suitable for the
boudoir ; such as the two illustrated below —

We regret the claims on our space will not admit even
the enumeration of the great variety of novelties — nice,
but not high-priced — that we notice continually flowing
into these showrooms ; so great, indeed, is the number of
these, that the firm have found it necessary to issue
supplementary catalogues of new arrivals, without waiting
for new editions of their catalogues. We also note that
the articles are all covered with a transparent enamel, far

June 1, 1892."|

THE WATCHMAKER, JEWELER AND SILVERSMITH.

245

superior to ordinary lacquer, for it not only protects the
articles from atmospheric influences, but gives them a
much greater brilliancy.

Something New in J3rooch ^ins.
Of all the various contrivances that have been introduced
there is none that embraces so many important features
and advantages as the one lately brought out by Mr. J.
Langdale, of Whitby Jet fame. There is neither joint to
break, nor catch to strain, break, or damage. The pin is
not confined and constrained at the expense of injury to

Fig. 1.

move in one place, but has next door to a universal action.
Fi?. 1 shows a section of this ingenious arrangement,

Fig. 2.

which is so simple as to explain itself. Fig. 2 shows a
view of the back. It is thus plain that the pin has a ball
head passed through a hollow ball, which forms part of the
brooch, from behind. A slot is cut in the hollow ball
at an angle of about 90 degs., so that the pin can move
almost in every direction. A similar ball on the other side,
slotted below1, allows the pin to pass under, and another slot
serves for its resting-place, with just a little " spring,"
sufficient to hold it snugly in position.

An American is making brooch-pins out of the Solid
piece, instead of from three or four pieces soldered together,
as usually done. The head is swaged (in dies) on to the
wire, which is then drawn out to the required length,
and the point drawn.

^re Things as Aad as Some Say ?

Some six months ago we had the pleasure of calling
attention to the great enlargements and alterations that
had been effected at Messrs. Ahronsberg Bros., Biiming-
ham, which at the time hardly seemed justifiable. How-
ever, we have not been kept waiting long before we have
seen the remarkable development of trade going on at this
establishment to such an extent as to fill up every inch of
the additions. In fact, as one sees the increase of parcels
come pouring in and going out, especially in the jobbing
and appro, departments, it is already evident that further
enlargements will soon be necessary. We notice they are
going in somewhat extensively for silver plate, and some of
their many choice patterns in muffineers, tcte-d-tetes, and
such like articles, certainly would be difficult to equal
either in design or price. One line, of which they are
making a great speciality, and one that a great many West-
end jewelers have for some time found worth their while to
take up, is silver-mounted walking-sticks. We know many
houses who have done well with these, and should recom-
mend others to try them.

,CDiA6 (Horofogicaf G^poHlA for tfle ^Jear& i§>&6)-®)&-®)i.

Gold Watches.

Silver Watches.

Metal Watch

ES.

1889.

1890.

1891.

1889.

1890.

1891.

1889.

1890. '

1891.

Germany-

227,457

235,872

200,096

728,485

731,601

650,779

254,664

258,904

237,323

Austria

70,840

78,637

79,369

252,007

274,481

287,099

62,336

62,264

71,453

France

14,193

10,760

11,467

82,479

44,696

51,958

158,275

112,979

135,034

Italy

29,868

40,433

38,998

201,394

206,803

194,492

55,501

72,013,

72,852

Belgium

19,163

26,409

23,602

45,828

64,667

62,093

30,682

46,563

36,727

Holland

16,693

18,057

14,582

40,054

42,851

39,288

. 22,522

21,094

15,882

Great Biitain

65,755

88,726

94,000

379,707

417,757

472,443

231,908

250,560

266,993

Russia

39,030

42,262

31,412

132,711

146,314

113,863

. 40,799

51,630

47,565

Sweden and Norway . .

2,807

4,309

4,084

28,235

34,761

43,014

2,972

4,964

4,850 i

Denmark

979

1,447

1,687

8,237

9,070

12,110

2,208

1,595

1,724

Portugal

6,117

6,532

2,681

28,719

34,711

16,310

2,395

3,685

2,032

Spain

7,197

5,600

4,364

47,296

38,837

36,253

33,759

29,958

38,698

Greece

255

292

357

1,272

1,626

2,541

1,849

2,076

3,773

Danube Provinces

2,652

3,845

5,233

10,406

11,335

19,299

11,725

15,270

20,625

Turkey in Europe

2,174

3,399

2,653

16,800

33,139

53,782

6,709

13,645

21,551

Egypt ..

404

876

798

2,948

2,621

5,123

2,568

2,834

6,613

Algiers and Tunis

164

121

101

1,096

1,123

668

507

1,079

1,864

Africa

110

125

413

611

294

507

417 1

223

Turkey in Asia

265

396

443

1,274

1,605

1,438

900

1,181

969

British Indies

1,139

2,475

1,918

13,898

24,591

21,372

15,658

36,817

46,874

Dutch Indies

—

204

188

1,099

1,380

1,025

2,695

2,378

1,262

East Asia

2,804

3,737

3,128

107,779

139,010

90,159

45,622

37,737

18,233

English North A meric.i ..

521

1,620

407

1,085

3,208

5,101

395

712

742

United States

21,918

18,457

16,406

105,115

133,960

132,124

214,716

251,030

270,498

Central America . . /
South America . . . . )

30,084

18,242

15,767

80,198

64,296

49,513

78,969

59,472 ;

65,412

Australia

288

502

2,106

1,117

2,626

5.24S

5,770

6,018

15,814

Other Countries . .
|

—

747

—

502,959

613,355

555,937

2,320,238

2,467,686

2,367,389

1,286,821

1,346,875

1,405,756

246

THE WATCHMAKEK, JEWELER AND SILVERSMITH.

[June 1, 1892.

#FemA oj? ^nferex&t.

The quantity of articles made in aluminium
Aiuiiiiiiiiim finished matt, and red gold burnished, is in-
■'■'"' (ioM- creasing and occupying the place formerly held
by the more exclusively silver articles. It will
be. remembered that several Bond Street firms were em-
ploying it for jewelry mounts, especially rings, four or five
years ago. But we have yet to learn more of this metal
before we can do justice to it or ourselves.
# * #

Bronzes Recently Professor Roberts-Austen delivered
"tHf"1 one of the series of lectures at the South Ken-
Modem, sington Museum for the purpose of extending the
knowledge of the science and art collections and of making
them more generally useful. The subject selected was
Art Metal-work ; and the Professor pointed out that as a
metallurgist he could only claim authority to deal with
the materials employed for art metal-work. Setting aside
wrought-iron, the most important of these were alloys,
especially those of the copper-tin series (the bronzes), and
those of the copper- zinc series (the brasses). When the
elder Pliny wrote in the first half of the first century of
our era, and described the nature of the early metallurgy,
industrial art in bronze was really far advanced ; although
the metallurgist was far behind his contemporary artist.
The learned Professor remarked that there was little use in
attempting to compose a bronze with a view to enable it to
acquire a patina in the London atmosphere. He took as
an instance one of our last-erected monuments, the eques-
trian statue of Lord Napier of Magdala, opposite the
Guards' Memorial in Waterloo Place. A few weeks ago
the patina had begun to form, and iridescent tints played
over the features, while unsightly rain-stains ran down his
horse ; now the layer was thickening, and a grey-brown
tint deepening, but there was no velvety-brown oxide, or
rich green and blue carbonate. The soldier, field-glass in
hand, was sternly looking away from the Athenasum and
the learned societies, as if conscious that, in the present
state of the London atmosphere, he was beyond the aid of
science, for science had clearly stated that so long as
bituminous coal was burnt in open fire-places London
must be smoky, and man and horse would soon be covered
with a black pall of soot and sulphide of copper, such as
now enshrouded the unfortunate occupants of the adjoining
pedestals.

"7V* "TV"

■■ In the February number of the American Journal
Accuracy of Science, Professor T. C. Mendenhall states
I»<'mi7i7um. ^at a free pendulum, vibrating under constant
conditions, furnishes a more trustworthy
standard for short intervals of time than any clock or
chronometer. By an arrangement of mirrors, as described,
with such a pendulum, it is claimed that in an hour or less
a daily rate can be determined, correct to about three-
hundredths of a second.

Variation ^OR some years past, at Greenwich and other
pf places, slight variations of latitude have been
observed, but have usually been attributed to
errors in calculation. Some determinations of the latitude
of Cambridge, U.S., in 1884 and 1885, exhibited a varia-
tion so progressive as to suggest to several minds that they
were not altogether errors. Mr. S. C. Chandler, in the
Astronomical Journal, No. 248, deals with this question,
and finds the minimum latitude to have been on September
1st, 1884, which showed a variation of about 0"#7, with a
maximum, which occurred May 1st, 1885. So that, after
all, latitude is not that fixed line we were formerly taught
to believe. We might, however, remark that the hypothesis

of the variation of latitude has frequently been resorted to
to account for some of the climatic changes that have taken
place in by-gone times.

# # #

The impossibility of getting lead to adhere to iron

*>?rt o without the aid of tin is said to have been com-

io iron? pletely overcome by an ingenious process, the

details of which are as follows : — The plate or
other article to be coated is first " pickled " in a bath to
remove scale, a mild current of electricity sent through the
liquid increasing the rapidity of its action by one-third.
From this bath the article is, as usual, passed into another
of lime-water to neutralise the acid, and thence into a third
of clear water. Next it is immersed in a neutral solution
of zinc and stannic chlorides, obtained by dissolving granu-
lated zinc and tin in hydrochloric acid. From this bath
it passes into a drying chamber heated by steam, which
protects the plate from oxidation. Finally, when dried,
the article is dipped in a bath of molten lead, from which
it emerges coated with a very thin but uniform layer of
that metal. The ductility and strength of the iron are
not diminished by this process, and a plate can be bent
and closed and again opened out without breaking the
coating.

* *• *

A Frenchman has invented a stove, the wall

YtoomTd of which is composed of upwards of a thousand

li^nt your thermo-electric pairs. When the stove is

heated, either by gas or coke, a thermo-electric
current is generated sufficient to charge an accumulator
and drive a number of ten-candle power lamps. When
shall we learn to utilize the forces which, to all intents
and purposes, are lost in everyday life ?

©Jfie ©J\rtii*>tic ©Treafment of

^eaoef anc| <J\<\<\re&&-(s>OL&r\e\'&,

By J. WILLIAM TONKS.

A Paper read before the Society of Arts.

(Concluded from page 226.)

We are told of the immense number of caskets of great
value and beauty, produced by the Limoges enamellers, as
early as the 11th, 12th, and 13th centuries. I have before
referred to the ecclesiastical ones, but for the lay caskets
I fear we must go to a later period. The example from
South Kensington, of uncertain date, illustrates the style
(1440-'55). It is oblong, ebony and gold, with five enamel
painted plaques, of the modern Limoges type, which
I need not further describe. The charming little silver
box, of classic type, lent me by Mr. Camden Piercy, has a
series of enamelled panels of Roman subjects, probably of
a not much later period ; while a silver open-work box,
from the same collection, may carry us to the 18th century.
We then come to the time of the Battersea enamels.
Caskets, painted in delicate colors, with views, flowers,
fruit, and foliage, are not infrequent in collections of this
ware.

A notice of caskets would be seriously incomplete did it
not refer to the famous ivory and metal workers of the far
East. Arabia, Persia, and India have been so long famed
for their productions, that there must be many of the
highest lessons to be gained by a study of what the wrecks
of time have left us. Firstly, the Arabic motive seems
quite different from the European. The box is of metal,
damascened ; it is quadrilateral in plan, with sides sloping

June 1, 1892.]

THE WATCHMAKER, JEWELER AND SILVERSMITH.

247

towards the top and sloping lid, the feet being in line with
the box. A very precious example is at South Kensington
(459-1873). It is in brass, covered with silver plates,
chased with foliage, birds, and human-headed lions, inlaid
with gold, also with geometric designs and Arabic inscrip-
tions, carried out in superb style and finish. It has silver
chains to support the lid when open, and Mr. C. Purdon
Clarke considers it is Mosuli work, perhaps as early as the
13th century.

Modern Persian work reverts to the oblong box, as a
rule. A box with falling front and fittings, as a cabinet
(1090- '70), is richly inlaid on wood, after the Persian
manner, with figures, animals, and foliage, the materials
being vari-colored pieces of ivory and brass wire. A more
ambitious box, probably dating from the commencement
of the present century, and covered with Shiraz mosaic,
the lid being brass, and having a border pierced and
engraved with figures and Persian inscription, is inlaid
charmingly with silver, and prominent lines of border are
decorated with turquoise and garnet.

I learn from my friend, Mr. C. Purdon Clarke, who has
given so much study to Oriental art industries, that the
usual jewel-box in India is circular, carved and decorated,
in which, also, perfumes and other toilet requisites are
kept. As to the ancient Indian caskets, one of the best
examples we have (8495-'63), and which I am fortunately
able to show, is curiously related, in shape and character,
to the ancient Byzantine one, to which I have already
referred. It is ivory, oblong with pent-house lid, and an
ebony slab, which is an ugly late edition. Like the former
one, it is constructed with bold ornamental divisions, the
plaques of ivory between being very boldly carved with
grotesque human figures, curiously squeezed into the
panels. The nails are shown with commendable frank-
ness, and the two caskets are well worth studying
together.

A modern Cingalese casket (38-'68) is again, with its
arched top, curiously related in shape to the ancient
Italian casone. The ivory openwork ornament is, how-
ever, very refined and harmonious, showing against the
darker wood background in a very interesting manner.
The carved monsters and foliage appear to betray an
European influence, but the treatment is all that need be
desired.

After roaming among historic records, and reviewing
from the fragments that remain to us the art work of so
many nations, it is a confession that one may perhaps
make with some equanimity, that the address casket,
strictly such, may be styled a feature peculiarly English.
After some little research into the habits of the past, it is
noteworthy that history seems eloquently silent as to a
custom of presenting addresses in a box of some precious
material or artistic construction. I was especially inter-
ested, in 1878, in examining the wonderful collection of
ancient art treasures in the halls of the Trocadero at Paris.
There were many superb specimens of caskets, but none
that appeared specially designed to enclose addresses. We
must not forget the wholesale destruction of art treasures
by Louis XIV. at the latter part of his long wars against
the Allies, nor the melting down by Louis XVI. of the
contents of the treasury of St. Denis, which M. Philippe
Burty describes as a calamity for art, as great as that of
the burning of the Alexandrian Library was for literature.
Still the fact remains, and it is a singular one. As a
member of the Jury at Paris, in 1889, I had special facili-
ties for examining the goldsmiths' work, in what was
perhaps the finest Exposition of modern work the world
has yet seen. But in that display I do not remember a
single Continental example of a casket produced to receive
an address. So far, then, we have a claim to believe that
the system is of English origin.

The custom of bestowing the freedom of a city is of very
ancient date, and I may be excused from giving details of

it here. This freedom, usually obtained by service, was
given on a parchment certificate, signed by the chief magis-
trate, and enclosed, usually, in a cylindrical box of box-
wood, much after the style of a needle case, in which it
would closely fit when rolled. But when a city became
rich and powerful it was in a position to confer distinction
upon men who had deserved well of their country, by
offering to them the honorary freedom, and enrolling their
names on the list of its citizens. The occasion was one
of great ceremony, and it would naturally be felt that the
ordinary box-wood "pyxis " would be quite inadequate for
the purpose. So a more elaborate box was provided, which
has gradually developed into the modern address casket.
The city of London appears to have set the example in this
respect ; but it is unfortunate that its records are so meagre,
and that early tabulated accounts have been destroyed.
Further research may bring to light much important infor-
mation, but a systematic statement in the Chamberlain's
office commences with the year 1740. From this, it is clear
that the practice of giving the honorory freedom of the
City to eminent persons was in full swing, as also the
custom of enclosing it in a gold casket. Thus, in 1740,
Vice-Admiral Vernon was presented with the honorary
freedom in a gold box, after the victory of Portobello.
William Duke of Cumberland had a similar distinction,
after the defeat of the rebels in 1745 ; and William Pitt,
afterwards Earl of Chatham, in 1757, at the close of his
first short administration. The Right Hon. R. B. Legge
was bracketed with Mr. Pitt for a similar honor ; and so
the list goes on at regular intervals. In 1767, Christian
King of Denmark was singled out, on a visit to this
country ; and the gold casket is noted as having cost 200
guineas, a much larger sum, relatively, in those days than
it would be esteemed now. Rear-Admiral Rodney received
a gold box from the City in 1 780, on returning from his
famous victory ; and, in latter days, Nelson and Wellington
accepted these marks of respect and admiration from the
City. But we get from the records the mere statement of
the fact, and the money value of the gold caskets, with no
description that would enable us to form an idea of their
respective artistic merits.

There is one interesting fact in connection with these
early address caskets which must not be omitted here.
Charles Dibdin, the famous song writer, was, at the date
at which we have arrived, in the vigour of his age, and
near the summit of his reputation. We all remember the
famous couplet in one of his patriotic odes—

Our ships are made of oak,
And hearts of oak our men.

Now, I must leave it to the learned to determine whether,
in some one of the 1,400 songs this prolific writer produced,
the phrase "hearts of oak " had occurred previous to the
year 1779. But in that year, curiously enough, there was
presented to Sir Augustus Keppel the first " heart of oak "
box, embellished with gold. Whether the custom gave
rise to the song, or the song to the custom, I have not.
been able to ascertain. But the custom became general,,
so far as the City of London was concerned, and continued
for some sixty years. I have seen one of these " heart of
oak" boxes. It was of a fanciful rococo shape, about the
size of a club snuff-box — in fact, it was lined with burnished
gold, and so closely fitted to close air-tight, that it would .
well have served the purpose. The wood was of that
delicate rich brown color, finely grained, characteristic of .
the heart of the oak, and which does not seriously darken
in a century. The lid was covered with richly-carved
rococo scrolls, the arms of the recipient in centre, and at
sides were military trophies suited to the presentation.

In coming now to modern times, I am reminded of the
fact that the reason why Chairs of Modern History are not
more largely founded at our Universities, is because of the
risk that the professor's views of recent events may be largely

248

THE WATCHMAKER, JEWELER AND SILVERSMITH.

[June 1, 1892.

colored by his political predilections. Itis evident that similar
risks are run by one who dilates on modern industrial art.
Should he adopt a tone of caustic censure, he is liable to
ba reminded of Lord Beaconsheld's famous aphorism, that
•• Critics are persons who have failed in literature or art."
If. on the other hand, he should indulge in exuberant
praise of the objects under review, he may be asked the
question "Who are your friends?" 1 must therefore
crave your indulgence while I endeavor, on this subject,
to steer between Scylla and Charybdis, simply premising
that the examples have been drawn from as wide a field as
possible. I can deal with but a few pieces ; it is only safe
to speak of those of which one has some knowledge, and I
propose to suggest a few lines of thought for your considera-
tion, rather than to set down a hard and fast dictum of
praise or blame.

A casket presented to the Rev. T. Raffles, of Liverpool,
after a pastorate of fifty years in that city, and exhibited
by Messrs. Howell and James, at London, in 1862, has re-
finement of form and dignity of expression. It was
designed by Mr. F. M. Miller, professor of sculpture at
South Kensington. A much later one, presented to Sir
Frederick now Lord Roberts, after his remarkable march
from Cabul to Candahar, was also produced by Messrs.
Howell and James. It was in gold, oblong, with arched
top, after the style of the Italian coffret, and the design,
for which Mr. T. Buxton Morrish was largely responsible,
included enamels and repousse work, all having a strict
regard to the subject. The handle at top, of constructive
form, had entwined within it the initials of the General ;
his various decorations were arranged in a panel on obverse
of lid, also in champleve enamel. Coats-of-arms, enamelled
and enamel painted, occupied obverse and reverse of
casket, while the ends were decorated respectively with
views of the citadels of Cabul and Candahar ; the archi-
tectural features treated with enamel lines after the
medieval manner. Trophies of Afghan and English arms,
with suggestive symbols and Latin mottoes, completed the
decoration, while at the feet, of sound construction, dolphins
were sporting. Mr. J. W. Benson had a distinct success
in the casket made by him, as the City presentation to Sir
Henry Bessemer. The figure of Invention, with the steel
converter one side and pigs of crude iron on the other, is
sufficiently suggestive. The box is gold, a rich Renais-
sance, with bold decoration and twisted steel columns,
while the plinth of steel, a tour-de-force of the inventor, is
certainly realistic.

At this stage it will be convenient to refer to caskets
wdiich have ostensibly taken a distinct architectural
character. The Italians of the seventeenth century were
especially famous for caskets in iron, damascened in
gold and silver. These caskets, of which a fine example
is in the collection of Earl Cadogan, partook of the
character of the buildings of the period, being marked
into divisions by pilasters or columns, having architectural
mouldings and panels like window frames, so that the
enamelled centres might almost serve for the stained glass.
This style has reappeared in modern times, chiefly in
caskets of a classical character. A notable example of this
was the casket presented by the City to Mr. Gladstone, in
1882, and manufactured by the Goldsmiths' and Silver-
smiths' Company, of Regent Street. The severe lines of
the box were suggested by the classic tastes of the then
Premier ; the centre trophy, of Mr. Gladstone's heraldic
bearings, was approached on either side by a series of
figures in gold against a field of blue enamel, which gave
unity and symbolic value to the attributes represented.
Four figures beyond the casket expressed qualities held to
be exemplified in Mr. Gladstone's statesmanship, and the
lid was elaborately decorated by emblems, in which the
bust of Homer and the Lamp of Learning were con-
spicuous. Punch probably served the makers most, in

regard to this casket, with humorous description, full of
point, one of his sallies being to the effect that the Tuscan
columns at the sides represented the columns led against
the Government of the day by Mr. Parnell on the one side,
and Lord Randolph Churchill on the other.

An important casket of this class was produced by Messrs.
Elkington, as a gift from the city of Athens to the Crown
Prince of Greece, on the occasion of the attainment of his
majority. It was designed under the direction of his
Excellency M. Gennadius, Greek Minister at the Court of
St. James. As a classic purist, he desired that it should
represent the spirit of the famous city, and this was
done with scrupulous accuracy of detail. On the lid are
statuettes, the prince himself in centre. On the right,
the city of Athens presenting the address, while Pallas
Athena?, panoplied as of old, looks on approvingly. Altars
of science and art respectively are at each side of the group.
The "labarum" of Constantine is seen in front, with the
arms of the ancient city. The box itself, having Corinthian
columns at corners and ends, has a remarkable bas-relief.
In centre, beneath a classic doorway, round which is
bending a growing laurel in delicate compliment, the
prince is seated. On either hand assemble the various
provinces of Greece with messages of congratulation.
Theseus, Achilles, Constantine, and Alexander each play
their part in the design ; and the surface, diversified with
gold, silver, and rich enamels, gives the whole an effect of
pure and balanced color. Another casket, also by Messrs.
Elkington, presented to the prince — this one by Greek
residents in England — yet more emphasises the archi-
tectural idea. The figure work is elaborate and appro-
priate ; not the least so being the panel where the Goddess
of Wisdom, disguised as Mentor, is instructing the young
prince in the duties of life and the art of wise admistration.
I must pass on to a casket from the same house, designed
by an architect of Wigan, the motive being suggested by the
ancient Town-house, supported on columns, a specimen of
Early English construction. The arrangement is in-
genious and decorative, the summit being crowned by a
figure of the borough progress — based on coal — the miner's
lamp indicating one stage, and the electric light the other.

In the year of Jubilee of Her Majesty's reign many
caskets were presented, some retaining the architectural
motive, while others were marked by much boldness and
freedom. The one from the borough of Leamington,
supplied by Mr. T. R. Roberts, in ivory and gold, was
oblong in form, graceful in line, and the ornament agree-
ably disposed. A casket manufactured by Messrs. T. and
J. Bragg, and presented to Mr. Peel, son of Sir Robert
Peel, on the attainment of his majority in 1888, is a typical
instance of an oblong box of ivory, decorated with gold
and silver, following, in many respects, the traditions of
the Middle Ages. The lid, rising in a gentle curve, is sur-
mounted by a boldly modelled and enamelled blazon of the
arms of the Peel and Tweeddale families ; at the sides are
enamelled portraits of Sir Robert and Lady Peel, the father
and mother of the recipient. Around central monograms,
on obverse and reverse of lid, are repousse panels, referring
to agriculture, arts, and commerce. The motive of the
design of the box is the family motto, " By Industry," and
as a model by which it is gently suggested that the young
man should shape his future career, a statuette of the great
Sir Robert Peel, reduced from the statue in the market-
place at Tamworth, is placed in a canopied arch in centre
of casket. On either side of this, in gold frames, are
enamel painted views — one of old Drayton Manor, the
early home of the family, the other of the present
mansion. The Tamworth arms and other relative subjects
decorate remaining sides of the box ; and the statuette of
the great Prime Minister is saved from apparent isolation
by four other figures to same scale, occupying corners of
the casket, having reference respectively to agriculture, the

June 1, 1892.]

THE WATCHMAKER, JEWELER AND SILVERSMITH.

249

industrial arts, and wise and just legislation. Another
casket, in gold and enamels, upon a box of ivory, presented
to the late Duchess of Sutherland by the ladies of Torquay
after a lengthened visit of the Princess of Wales and her
three daughters to that charming place, was also manu-
factured by Messrs. T. and J. Bragg. It was oval, with
arched ends, the lid raised up in several lines, the
Princess's coronet surmounting it. The treatment was
light and graceful, the leading features being four portraits,
enamel painted on gold, of the Princess and her daughters,
one forming the central motive on each side of the box.

We must not fail to describe the superb casket presented
last year by the city to the Emperor of Germany, and
manufactured by Messrs. Mappin Brothers. If anyone
desired to form an idea of the extent to which the casket
conception had developed during the past hundred years,
it would be gathered by a comparison of the heart of oak
box, or club snuff-box of a century ago, with this fine
example of goldsmith's work, which I will shortly describe.
The style is that of the free Gothic of the Guildhall itself,
which is adopted with brilliant effect, the open arches and
tracery being shown against royal blue enamel, while the
continuous borders and deep panels give a richness of
color quite remarkable. The shape is oblong, with semi-
circular bays at either end; the upper moulding is supported
by a band of Gothic capital enrichment, and is crowned
with a royal coronet border, similar^o ancient boxes just
referred to. A splendid feature at the base is a series of
blazoned shields and ribands, giving the arms and names
in a series of all the different kingdoms and duchies included
in the German empire. Imperial eagles appear over the
coronet rim ; the arms of Germany occupy the centre ;
four emblematic figures in repousse express the wishes of
the city for the peace and progress of that empire, in
fraternal union with England, and two interesting events
connecting the two nations are displayed on the semi-
circular bays. One is the marriage of our Queen with the
late Prince Albert ; the other the marriage of the late
Emperor Frederick to the then Princess Royal of England.
On the lid is the seated figure of the City of London ; her
mural crown being decorated with the wings of the dragon
crest, a wealth of merchandise about her, the caduceus of
commerce held aloft in the right hand, the City shield
supporting her left.

In closing a description of various classes of address
caskets, with which I hope I have not wearied you, let me
remark that jewel caskets, as such, have followed much the
same lines of change. "The forms have' become richer,
bolder, and less conventional, not seldom, I fear, tres-
passing beyond the limits of the true rules of art. In
gold, silver, damascened work, as well as in less costly
materials, they vary so much that it is difficult to fix a
modern classification. We may take two typical ones,
both by the Messrs. Elkington. One, by Mr. Willms, is
severe, classic in form, oblong, with pilasters at angles,
and bas-relief in repousse. One side represents a wedding
procession, another the Athenian marriage ceremony. The
doves of Venus and figure of Cupid on the lid, with the
torch of Hymen, sufficiently indicate the object of the
casket to be that of a bridal gift. The other low, long
box, designed and modelled by the late M. Morel Ladeuil,
is charmingly unconventional and free in treatment ; while
the placing of the figures to occupy the corners suggests
the master hand.

I have finished my parable. It is a long stretch, from
the first historic box overlaid with gold and containing
sacred symbols, to the gold casket offered to an emperor
by the richest city in the world. There are many inter-
vening stages, all of them interesting ; although the most
precious examples have been destroyed. The lessons they
teach us are of patient art industry and laborious achieve-
ment. The works of the past bear no marks of haste upon
them ; their minute surface detail always speaks of leisure

and reflection. In our modern days we have changed all
that. Design, model, finished work, all must be com-
pleted in hot haste. What wonder if, in this rush and
hurry, we lose something and forget much. The patient,
loving care with which the artist of old could dwell on the
minute parts of his design, the thoroughness with which
he could adapt one part to another in those old days, gave
him advantages which we are liable to miss in modern
work. Knowing, as I do, the conditions under which large
and elaborate presentation pieces are now got out, I do not
marvel that they are not better ; I often am surprised that
they come through the race against time so well as they
do. Partly for this reason, and still more because of the
lack of art education among our workpeople, there is much
modern work in this class which I prefer not to name.
Pieces in which the decoration seems thrown together by
accident, and in which different styles jostle each other,
like fares in an omnibus — blatant vulgarities, that sin
against every law of taste, and which are only remarkable
for the unblushing audacity with which they violate the
canons of art. These, unhappily, are the products of
19th century competition.

Let us draw a veil over these infirmities, so far as the
past is concerned, but let us, each in our own sphere, do
something to provide against their prevalence in the future.
First, let us educate our workmen, that they may be able to
give the loving, artistic touch, and to afford the delicate
sense of finish, which must add the final grace to the
conception of the designer. Next, let us remember that a
work of art must have time for its successful production.
It is all very well for the contractor to tell us of five
railway bridges being built in a fortnight. This is only a
question as to how many men are needed to lay so many
bricks, to cut and place so much stone. But, if you desire
a work of art, and not a mere contract piece of no art
value, you must give time for the hand, and heart, and
brain of the artist to do their best upon it.

Again I would lift my voice against the miserable system
of competition, which makes of what ought to be a work
of art a mere race for advertising purposes, and often
means a heavy fine upon the successful competitor for the
privilege of putting his name to the piece. It is wonderful,
under the conditions which often prevail, that great houses
will be so public- spirited as to give so much real art at
their own cost in important presentations ; but surely it is
not a healthy sign that they should be placed in such a
position.

Lastly, may I add that it is well to guard against the
rush for mere novelty of form in these caskets. The rage
to secure a new shape often leads to most barbarous
results, and while, I trust, I am the last to desire a dull
and barren uniformity, I would remind my hearers that
eccentricity is not always beauty, and that many a design
which possessed excellent features has been incurably
marred by a painful striving after some unheard-of effect.
A beautiful design, whether of a casket or anything else,
always has the virtue of repose. It appears brought
together without effort, and you feel that you cannot take
any part or ornament away without injuring the effect.
Some caskets I have seen have hardly a single ornament
which has a sustained attachment, and we might say of
its decoration, remove it altogether. Unity of form and
harmony of color are most essential ; and when to these
are joined a sound conception, just construction, and
artistic treatment of detail, we have the jewel and address
casket worthy of the knowledge and executive ability
which, undoubtedly, exist among us.

With these remarks, and trusting to be favored with
the views of a society which numbers among its members
so many distinguished artists and experienced critics on a
subject which is deeply interesting to me, I will now leave
the paper in your hands.

250

THE WATCHMAKER, JEWELER AND SILVERSMITH.

[June 1, 1892.

Sn. anc( ©ut t^e diouri^.

Loss of Messrs. Elkington's Action. — This was an
action in the Chancery Division of the High Court of Justice
against Tivoli, a director in the Restaurant Company that
bears his name, for goods supplied, amounting to £1,307 ;
for which the company gave two acceptances, one for
£600 and another for £107, promising to deliver further
debentures for the remaining £600. The £600 acceptance
was dishonored ; subsequently they received £407. In
November last the company was wound up, and it was then
found they had never issued the debentures, although
plaintiffs had parted with the goods upon the representa-
tions of Tivoli in regard to them. Mr. Justice Romer said
he failed to see how defendant could be made liable, and
dismissed the action, with costs.

How Appro. Goods are Treated. — -Lieut. Leslie of the
Royal Sussex Regiment recently received a packet of
diamond and opal pins, valued at £80 or £90, at
Chichester Barracks, which when done Avith were packed
up and put into the kitchen connected with the officers' mess.
When post time came, not at all surprising to say, they had
disappeared. It turned out that this kitchen was so well
guarded that a tramp laborer was able to walk in and take
them. Subsequently the laborer left one as a deposit for
a pickaxe and shovel at an ironmonger's, which led to his
arrest. He was found employment on the mill for three
months.

Extensive Robbery and Sad Sequel. — While Mr. M. J.
Goldsmid, a well-known jeweler of Vittoria Street, Bir-
mingham, was engaged in showing his goods to a Deans-
gate, Manchester, jeweler on the 5th ult., one of the
sample bags, containing £2,500 worth of stock, was stolen
from a handcart in charge of a railway porter, who, instead
of maintaining his post at the cart, was abstractedly gazing
into the window. The police were at once communicated
with, and every effort made to obtain some clue, but
entirely without success. It was therefore arranged to
advertise a reward, and the bill was accordingly got out.
Mr. Goldsmid was naturally upset, although, according to
several people who saw him, not unnaturally so. In the
course of the afternoon he visited a chemist's shop and
bought an ounce of cyanide of potassium, stating that he
required it for cleaning his stock. The chemist, however,
employed all precautions, and made Mr. Goldsmid establish
his identity with the card he gave. Next morning, how-
ever, sad to say, he was found dead in his bed, with a
glass standing near, in which was a solution of
cyanide. At the inquest it was suggested that a post-
mortem examination should be made to see if he met with
his death from poison.

Recovery of Lost Waterbury Watches. — Attempts
were recently made to obtain money upon part of the pro-
ceeds of this robbery, but whilst the applicant, William
Brackman, of 28, Amhurst Road, Hackney, was being
detained, a constable was sent for who took him into
custody. 691 of the watches have been recovered.

Loss of Messrs. Hukin and Heath's Action. — For
many years this old firm have been in the habit of supply-
ing the committee of tha Licensed Victuallers' Protection
Society, Queen Victoria Street, with the testimonials to
their outgoing chairman. In 1888 and 1889 the recipients
called at their establishment and selected the goods as usual,
which were presented at St. James's Hall banquets, but
these not being paid for, Messrs. Hukin and Heath
resorted to law. It was, however, held that the iuvoice
was made out in the name of the secretary, and that he
therefore was responsible for the payment. A verdict in
favor of the committee was returned. Moral— make out
invoices to committees, not to secretaries.

Mr. Pyre's Compensation. — Mr. Pyke, of New Bond
Street, recently brought an action against Mr. De AV. Chap-

man, Cheesemonger, of Edgware Road, for injuries sustained
by Mrs. Pyke on the 3rd of March, 1891, through the fall of
a portion of the sun-blind outside defendant's shop, which
struck Mrs. Pyke upon the head. Defence was " not
liable, as the accident occurred in consequence of the
violence of the wind." Verdict, £300 damages.

An Old Shoplifter Run Down. — G. W. Henry, alias
Holmes, twenty-three, was recently run down. After
entering the shop of Henry Hardt, 73, Commercial Road,
a keeper-ring was missed, but the thief was traced to a
neighbouring beershop and given into custody, with the
ring still upon him. He was subsequently identified as being
the perpetrator of numerous shopliftings, some of a very
daring character.

Stealing by an Employe. — Alexander Anderson was
recently convicted of stealing several silver articles, of the
value of £5, from his employers, Josiah Thomas and Co.,
St. Augustine's Parade, Bristol, and sentenced to three
months' hard labor. Up to the conviction, prisoner had
borne a good character, and was in receipt of £3 a week.
He, however, took the goods to a cabman, who bought
them of him, and who was also committed to the same
punishment for receiving with guilty knowledge.

A Bad Account. — Recently, at Edinburgh, John Young
was sentenced to eighteen months' imprisonment for
pawning goods while acting as agent. The charges
included the embezzlement of eighty-eight watches,
alberts, and other articles, the properties of S. Goldstone,
Manchester; Ford, Galloway, and Co., Birmingham; and
others.

Pawning a Customer's Watch. — Romanus Rhinsberg
was recently committed at Rotherham to twenty-eight days'
imprisonment for pawning a gold watch, valued at £10,
entrusted to him to repair by his landlord. When appre-
hended at Leeds, whither he had fled, he protested that he
would have redeemed it again.

The Right Sort of Policeman. — A constable at
Leicester, recently seeing a man loitering about the premises
of Mr. Winterhalder, Belvoir Street, watched at a distance,
until he heard a smash ; he then pounced upon the
prisoner and took him into custody. A scuffle ensued,
during which time prisoner threw away a quantity of
jewelry.

Mr. Aronsberg's Robbery. — The man who has been
brought up several times for this robbery was discharged
the other day by the desire of the police. The magistrate,
however, dwelt upon the strong suspicion which rested on
him.

Never Try to Serve Two Customers at One Time. —
The other evening, while Mr. John Ingram, of High Street,
Cardiff, was selling a watch, another man came in and
asked to have a worthless ring repaired. Taking the job
of him, he left the watch on the counter. After the
departure of the latter the watch was missing. Fortu-
nately it turned out the man was not in his senses, and
the watch was recovered ; but it would have been just as
easy for a thief to have done it.

Window Smashing at Cardiff. — Mr. H. B. Crouch, of
St. Mary Street, Cardiff, recently had his window smashed
much in the same way as those of Mr. J. W. Benson,
simply because the man " felt miserable." The stipendiary,
however, was inclined to take a much more lenient view of
the matter than his brethren in London, and instead of
punishing the rascal only bound him over to be of good
behavior for six months !

Serious Fire at a Watchmaker's Shop. — The premises
of Mr. Lionel Bury, Bassein Park Road, W., were recently
burned out while the workpeople had gone out for the day.
Serious Charge against a Jeweler. — William Latham,
City Road, Manchester, has been committed for trial ujaon
the charge of receiving, with guilty knowledge, the witness
being a convict. The charges are of too serious a nature
to repeat until further evidence has been adduced.

June 1, 1892.]

THE WATCHMAKER, JEWELER AND SILVERSMITH.

251

CAUTION.— /( must be distinctly understood that, in giving the Official Gazette
information, we take official records as wefind them, and accept no responsibility for
inaccuracies, while as an almost invariable rule the facts will be found correct.

Bankruptcy Record.

Bowman, Eichavd Thomas, Jeweler and Silversmith, 70, Goswell
Eoad and Vernon House, Brixton Hill. Receiving Order :
May 10. First Meeting : May 24. Public Examination :
Bankruptcy Buildings, Carey Street, June 15.

Bowman, Arthur Hai't, Jeweler and Silversmith, 472, Brixton
Road, 15, Camberwell Road, The Limes, Tulse Hill, and
6, Broadway, Deptford. Receiving Order : May 10. First
Meeting : May 24. Public Examination : Bankruptcy
Buildings, Carey Street, June 15.

Bowman, Charles Samuel, Jeweler, London Road, Croydon.
Receiving Order : Mav 12.

Bowman, Reginald, Jeweler, 291 and 293, late 193, Holloway

Road. Receiving Order : May 10. First Meeting : May 24.

Public Examination : Bankruptcy Buildings, Carey Street,
June 15.

Heap, Thomas, Watchmaker and Jeweler, 3, Church Street,
Barnoldswick. Receiving Order : May 9. First Meeting :
May 24. Public Examination : County Court, Bradford,
June 3.

Thompson, John, Watch Manufacturer, 75, Craven Street,
Chapel Fields, Coventry. Receiving Order: May 5.
Adjudication : May 6. First Meeting : May 24. Public
Examination : May 30.

Wigston, David Jamieson, Watchmaker and Jeweler, 77, Castle
Street, Carlisle. Receiving Order and Adjudication: May 5.
First Meeting : May 25. Public Examination : May 25.

Yeatman, George Thomas, Jeweler, 15, Castle Street, Salisbury,
Wilts. First Meeting : May 13. Public Examination :
Council House, Salisbury, June 10.

Deeds of Arrangement.
Asschek, Izaac Joseph, Diamond Merchant, 16, Hatton
Garden, E.C., and 149, Nieuwe Heerengracht, Amsterdam,
Holland. Trustee ; L. Hasluck, 17, Holborn Viaduct,
E.C., C.A. Secured creditors, ±16,600. Dated May 3;
filed May 10 ; unsecured liabilities, £34,458 ; estimated net
assets, £9,000.

List of Principal Creditors —

Cohen, J., and Co.

London

2,305

Gervers, F. T. ...

• * ) >

1,746

Litkie, X. A., and Co.

• • ) >

7,310

Joseph Bros. ...

5,498

Van Praag

* * 5»

2,334

Wernher, Beit, and Co.

■ " > )

3,858

Asscher, A.

. . Amsterdam 4,000

Asscher, J. J., Jun. ...

... ,,

350

Asscher, J. J., Sen. ...

... ,,

700

Jan Kol

• - 5>

3,000

Snapper, —

... ,,

600

Swaab, —

... ,,

865

Van de Tong, L.

... ,,

600

Van de Tong, G.

300

Dunkelsbuhler, A., and Co. ...

530

Full)/ Seem

'eel

Creditors.

Cohen, J., and Co.

. . . London

3,200

Dunkelsbuhler, A., and Co. ...

2,500

Wernher, Beit, and Co.

7,400

Jan Kol ...

Amsterdam

3.500

Bernstein, Abraham, Watchmaker, Jeweler, 80, Sunbridge
Road, and 113, Earl Street, formerly Manchester Road,
Bradford. Trustee : H. Walker, 5, Waterloo Street, Bir-
mingham, C.A. Dated May 11 ; filed May 13 ; unsecured
liabilities, £179 4s. llgd. ; estimated net assets, £55.

List of Principal Creditors —

Sucker, C, and Co. ...
Bridporfc Organ Co.
Mojon, Manger, and Co.
Lowenthal, L. ...
Cox Bros.>

Broham, Walter, and Co.
Bolt, Addis, and Co. ...
Moritz, Alfred and Co.
Baker, John, and Co. ...

£ s. d.

London 21 17 4

22 10 0

31 5 0

Berlin 28 1 7

Birmingham 102 0 0

16 0 0

24 0 0

Dresden 68 7 11

Sheffield 22 14 6

Bott, Edward Hardy, Watchmaker, Jeweler, 92, Granby Street,
and 98, Laurel Road, Leicester. Trustees and Inspectors :
G. G. Poppleton, Birmingham, C.A., and another. Deed of
inspectorship with a view to payment of a composition of
12s. 6d. in the £, by three equal instalments, on July 29,
and Nov. 29, 1892, and Mar. 29, 1893, secured by assign-
ment upon trust to realise, in default. Secured creditors,
£36. Dated April 22 ; filed April 27 ; unsecured liabilities,
£1,794 15s. 8d. ; estimated net assets, £1,515.

Gardener, William Vallier, Watchmaker and Jeweler, Penny
Street, and 35, Derwent Road, Lancaster. Trustees : J.
Hothersall, Lancaster. Dated April 21 ; filed April 27 ;
unsecured liabilities, £300 ; estimated net assets, £250.

List of Principal Creditors —

Cohen, J., and Son ...
Collett and Co.
Joseph and Co.
Skinner, John ...
Abrahams, Julius F. ...
Bartleti, Rev. P

£ s. d.

Birmingham 72 1 9

54 2 0

24 8 9

14 7 3

Bradford 11 16 10

Lancaster 18 0 0

Leaver, Charles, Jeweler, Gibraltar Street, Sheffield. Trustee :
G. A. Kuowles, 11, Union Street, Sheffield. Dated April
30 ; filed May 6 ; unsecured liabilities £265 8s. ; estimated
net assets, £89 17s. lOd.

List of Principal Creditors —

Round, Samuel
Brooke, Brooke, and Co,
Harris, Henry ...
Sharp, Henry ...

Birmingham

£ s. d.

94 0 0

33 3 0

49 0 0

20 3 6

Maitland, John Martin, Watchmaker and Jeweler, 11 and 13,
Brogden Street, Ulverston. Trustee : R. Casson, County
Chambers, Ulverston, C.A. Dated April 26 ; filed May 2 ;
unsecured liabilities, £128 19s. 3d. ; estimated net assets,
£100.

List of Principal Creditors —

Hines, R., and Son ..
Cronzier and Mitchell
Homer, A.
Grundy, J. W

Birmingham

Ulverston

£ s. d.

49 1 2

25 2 0

10 7 9

24 0 0

Miller, Elias, Jeweler, 15, Elsworth Street, Cheetham, Man-
chester. Composition of 6s. 8d. in the £ by five equal
instalments, at four, six, nine, twelve and 15 months, from
May 4, 1892, last four instalments secured by sureties.
Dated May 4; filed May 11; unsecured liabilities, £581
18s. Id. ; estimated net assets, £151 Is. 3d.

List of Principal Creditors —

Britton, B. H, and Sons
Allday, H., and Sons...
Ahronsberg Bros.
Kinder, Thomas
Hawley, John, and Son
Wright, L. J., and Co.

£ s.

Birmingham

56 10

25 0

49 0

Coventry

184 17

128 12

Manchester

98 16

._,-._,

THE WATCIIMAKEB, JEWELER AND SILVERSMITH.

[June 1, 1892.

Notices to Creditors.

Blakemore, Hugh Homy. Jeweler, 84, Lansdowne Street,
Winson Green, and 10, Tenby Street, Birmingham, and
Adelaide Place, Blackpool. Trustee: A. Edwards, Bennett's
Hill, Birmingham, C. A.— Appointed April 14.

Charlton, William, Watchmaker and Jeweler, 47, High Street,
Ashford. Proofs by May 17. Trustee: Official Receiver,
Canterbury.

Cohen, Henry. Jewelers' Factor, 375, New Cross Road. Proofs
by May 19. Trustee : Official Receiver, 24, Railway
Approach, London Bridge, S.E.

Kaiser, Mary, Optician, 59, The Parade, Leamington. Supple-
mental dividend of 2s. 3.U1. (4s. lOd. on new proof), at
Official Receiver's, Coventry. April 12.

Kleiser, Anthony, Watch and Clock Maker, 55, Oxford Road,
Reading. Proofs by May 11. Trustee : Official Receiver,
95, Temple Chambers, Temple Avenue, London.

Kurman, Israel Moses. Jeweler, 365, Commercial Road, 106,
Parking Road, and 52, Rye Lane, Peckham, S.E. Trustee
released : Mar. 21.

Le: ser, Solomon, Jeweler, 3, Alfred Place, Bedford Square,
late 19, Frith Street, Soho, and 54, Shaftesbury Avenue.
Discharge granted (Feb. 26, 1892), as from Feb. 26,
1894.

Moore, John Thomas, Watchmaker and Jeweler, 120, Preston
New Road, and 19, Northgate, Blackburn. Proofs by June
3. Trustee : Official Receiver, Preston.

Peacock, Arthur James, Silversmith and Jeweler (trading as
James Peacock), 42 and 64, New Oxford Street. Trustee :
L. Hasluck, 17, Holborn Viaduct, E.C. Appointed
April 1.

Stkawbaum, Maurice, Jeweler, 14, Reservoir Street, Reservoir
Road, Edgbaston, and 33, Tenby Street, Birmingham.
Proofs by May 23. Trustee : Official Receiver, Bir-
mingham.

Solomon, Levi, Jeweler, 29 and 29£ Corn Market Street, Oxford.
Second and final dividend of 8d. at Official Receiver's,
Oxford, May 20.

Williams, William Courtney Page (trading as Wordley and Co.),
Jeweler, 56, Lord Street, Liverpool, and Rushmoor, Plenkett
Road, Liscard. Trustee : F. Harpisty, 71, Lord Street,
Liverpool. Appointed April 9.

Dissolutions of Partnerships,

Aaronson and Steinart, Dealers in Jewelry, 198, Cheetham
Hill Road, Cheetham. Manchester. April 20. Debts by
George Aaronson. Mark Steinart continues.

Allen Brothers, Jewelers and Silversmiths, 133, Warstone
Lane, Birmingham. May 2. Debts by George Robert
Allen and Richard Hooper Allen, who continue under the
same style.

Ambrose Brothers, Watchmakers and Jewelers, 3, Quiet Street,
Bath. April 30. Debts by Harry Ambrose.

Batson, J., and Sons, Silversmiths, 42 and 43, Brewer Street,
Golden Square, St. James', Westminster. Mar. 25. Debts
by Henry John Batson and Albert Edward Batson, who
continue under the same style.

Levi, Joseph and Company, Wholesale Opticians, 40, Furnival
Street, and 2, Dyer's Buildings, Holborn. Jan. 1. Debts
by Myer Lewis Isaacs, who continues.

Zamek and Edelshain, Watchmakers and Jewelers, Bridge
Street, Aberdeen. May 5th.

Do not be imposed upon by
unreliable imitations.

THE

GENUINE "TRIUMPH

LATHE

IS WARRANTED ACCURATE
IN EVERY DETAIL.

The "Triumph" is to
be had everywhere, only
insist on getting the
GENUINE, in order to
avoid disappointment.

COMBINATION IX." Price £6 6/

June 1, 1892.]

THE WATCHMAKEB, JEWELER AND SILVERSMITH.

253

BUYERS' GUIDE

ARTISTIC SILVER SUNDRIES.

Prillgle Robert & Co. actual Makers (not merely
Factors) at their Steam Works, 40 and 42, Clerkenwell
Road. Children's Cans,Salt Cells and Spoons, Serviette
Rings, Apostle and Coffee Spoons, Cups, Goblets,
Mustard Pots and Spoons ; Muffineers, Cream Jugs,
Sugar Basins, Tea Spoons, Medals, and Alberts, duty
free. Old Gold and Silver bought in any quantity
for melting at the highest market price. Silver
Goods sent out on approbation.

BAROMETER AND COMPASS
MANUFACTURERS.

Barker Frahcis & Son 12, Clerkenwell Road, London,
Wholesale Manufacturers of Pocket and Charm
Compasses, Aneriod -Barometers, Sun Dials, etc.
Illustrated Trade Catalogue free on application.

BOX MAKER.

Kettle, F. G. 9, New Oxford Street, and 11, Kingsgate
Street, London, W.C. Send for Price List, post free.

CHRONOMETER MANUFACTURERS.

Oram George & Son 19, Wilmington Square, Clerken-
well. Marine and Pocket Chronometers, all kinds
of flrstclass Keyless Lever Watches, Chronographs,
Repeaters, and Regulators always In stock.

CLOCK MANUFACTURERS.

Smith John & Son, Midland Steam Clock Works, Derby.

Wilkins John & Co. ll, St. John Street Road, Clerken-
well.

DIAMOND MERCHANTS.

Backes & Strauss Limited 64, Holborn Viaduct,
London. — See Advt.

DIAMOND POLISHERS.

Ford & Wright Steam Lapidary Works, Diamond
Cutters and Polishers, Gem Cutters and Lapidaries
■ in all branches, 18 and 19, Clerkenwell Green and
Clerkenw ell Road.

ELECTRO GILDERS AND PLATERS.

Horton J. & Son 80, High Street, Whitechapel, London,
one of the oldest and best firms for Gilding and
Plating. Established 1834.

E NOR A VERS.

Mitchell & Cooper Heraldic, Monogram, Inscription,
and Generaf Engravers to the Trade, 58, Great
Sutton Street, Clerkenwell, London. Articles
engraved while customers wait.— See Advt.

GOLD AND SILVER DIAL
MANUFACTURERS.

Elston Richard & Sons 24, Myddelton Street, London.
Dials to Wycherley & Co.'s movements and other
makes' in stock. Half covers enamelled. Jobbing
Department : Special attention to Case and Dial
Repairs andRenewals. Established nearly 100 years.

GOLD & SILVER REFINERS.

Harrold Chas. & Co. 2 and 3, St. Paul's Square, Bir-
mingham.— See Advt.

The Sheffield Smelting Company Limited Sheffield,

Sell Gold and Silver (refined and alloyed). Buy all

materials containing Gold and Silver.
Westwood C. & Sons 14, Hall Street, Birmingham.—

See Advt.
Day Edward 28, Warstone Lane, Birmingham.— See

Advt.

GOLDSMITHS, MANUFACTURING.

Bragg, T. & J. Vittoria Street, Birmingham, and
15, Thavies Inn, London, Goldmiths, Jewellers,
Diamond Mounters, Art Silversmiths. By Special
Appointment to Her Majesty the Queen. Royal
and other Orders and Insignia, Mayoral Chains,
Maces, Corporate Seals, Caskets, Keys, Swords.
Masonic Jewellers.

Ginder Walter J. 4i', Frederick Street, Birmingham.—
See Advt.

Goode J. & Sons Regent Place, Birmingham.— See

Advt.
Lucas Brothers 22, Hylton Street, Birmingham.— See

Advt.

Saunders & Shepherd Bartlett's Passage Buildings,
Holborn Circus, London. — See Advt.

Sydenham, A. 26, Frederick Street, Birmingham.— See
Advt.

GOLD WATCH CASE MAKERS.
W- Neal 27, Craven Street, Coventry.

JET ORNAMENT MANUFACTURER.

Jones E. A. "Wholesale Manufacturer of Whitby Jet
Ornaments. A large assortment of the Newest
Patterns always in stock. Export Orders promptly
executed. Persons not having an account open will
avoid delay by forwarding a reference with their
order. Customers' Matchings and Repairs with
despatch. 93, Hatton Garden, London, E.C.

JEWELLERS, MANUFACTURING.

Greenberg I. S. & Co- 22, Tyse Street, Birmingham.—
See Advt.

Jones T. Walter 48-50, Hylton Street, Birmingham.—

See Advt.

Reading N. C. & Co. Warstone Lane, Birmingham —
See Advt.

Scott A. 62, Summer Hill Road, Birmingham. — See
Advt.

JEWELLERS, WHOLESALE.

Cooper H. J. & Co. Oxford Street, London. — See Advt.
Walter W. H. Newgate Street, London. — See Advt.

JEWELLERS' ROUGE MANU-
FACTURERS.

MASONIC JEWELLER.

Kenning G. Little Britain and Alderpgate Street,
London.— See Advt.

NOVELTIES FOR PRESENTS.

Chapman, Son, & Co., Manufacturers, 2, Charterhouse
Buildings, Aldersgate, London, E.C.

OPTICIANS, WHOLESALE.

Botwright & Grey 13, Spencer Street, Clerkenwell,
London.— See Advt.

Raphael J. & Co. 13, Oxford Street, London — See Advt

RING (GOLD) MANUFACTURER.

Hope S. 126, Tyse Street, Birmingham. —See Advt.

SAFE MANUFACTURERS.

Chubb & Sons Limited, Queen Victoria Street, Lon-
don.

Tann J. Newgate Street, London.

SILVERSMITHS, MANUFACTURING.

Round J. & Son Limited, Tudor Works, Sheffield
and Holborn Circus, London. — See Advt.

Willis Mark & Son Rockingham Street, Sheffield.—
See Advt.

WATCH JOBBER.

Ockenden S. Chronometer and Watch Jobber to the
Trade, 155, Goswell Road, London, E.C. Staffs,
Pinions, Cylinders, Conversions, etc. Price List on
application. Established 1887.

WATCH MANUFACTURERS.

Baume & Co. 21, Hatton Garden, London, Coventry,
and Switzerland. — See Advt.

Clemence Freres 11, Southampton Row, London, and
Switzerland. — See Advt.

Guye P. & A. Farringdon Road, London.— See Advt.

Hargreaves J. & Co. Wholesale Watch Manufacturers,
17, Norton Street, London Roa<1, Liverpool. Makers
to Her Majesty the Queen, and H.R.H. the Prince
of Wales.

Newsome & Co. The Butts, Coventry.— See Advt.

Rotherham & Sons Coventry and London.— See Advt.

Stauffer Son & Co. 13, Charterhouse Street, London
and Switzerland. — See Advt.

Usher & Cole 105, St. John Street Road, London
Makers to the Admiralty. — See Advt.

Waltbam Watch Company Holborn Circus, London.—
See Advt.

WATCH MATERIALS.

Grimshaw & Baxter Goswell Road, London.— See
Advt.

Haswell R. & Sons Spencer Street, Clerkenwell
London. — See Advt.

Swinden & Sons Temple Street, Birmingham.— See
Advt.

WATCH REPAIRERS.

Thiele E. 31, Vyse Street, Birmingham, Watch Re-
pairer to the Trade. New parts replaced quickly.
Special attention to jewellery repairs. Price List
on application.

Hayward, S., Watchmaker and Repairer to th^ Trade,
New pieces by post. Complicated and Faulty Watches
put in good order, (i. Hayward, 90, Hatton Garden,
London, E.C.

xxm

THE WATCHMAKER, JEWELER AND SILVERSMITH.

[June 1, 1892.

MR. FREDK. B. BOX,

^gcnt for tin pisposal of JKhtclnrtnkrrs'
nub Jfctocllcrs' ^Businesses.

SPECIAL FEATURE. — No charge whatever

unless a Sale ts effected, and no charge

to Purchasers.

Valuations made on Moderate Terms.

HIGHEST REFERENCES.

(Offices:
64, Holborn Viaduct, E.C.

Mr. Box « instructed to sell the following
Businesses :

. Watchmaker's and Jeweller's in

very fashionable cathedral city in the West
of England, established and in same hands
many years. Rent on long- lease, £65 ; house
let off for £25, but tenancy can be determined
at any time, Eeturns have been about £2,500 ;
stock and fixtures at valuation, about £1,300.
Purchase arranged with £1,000.

2. Partnership can be arranged in an

old-established family business in large town
on -East Coast, owing to ill-health of proprietor.
Eeturns have been £3,000 ; latterly, owing to
continued ill-health, just under £2,000. Eent
on lease, £70. An energetic young man with
£1,000 could take half share, and eventually
have the whole business.

3. Watchmaker's and Jeweller's in

busy neighbourhood, S.W. District. Eent on
lease, £65 ; 8-roomed house and good garden ;
large jobbing connection attached ; pi oof nett
profits, £400 a year, about £500 required.
Vendor retiring.

4. Watchmaker's and Jeweller's and

Fancy Goods Business with wools, in a small,
rising seaside town on South Coast. Estab-
lished and in same hands 23 years. Average
returns £1,400. Eent £50. Good shop and
large house. No goodwill. Stock and fixtures
at valuation, about £500. Good opening for
practical man and wife. Ill-health cause of
sale.

ir~Watehmaker' s and Jeweller's in

good district on the banks of the Thames.
Eent £110 ; let off £40. Average Eeturns £20
to £25 a week. For sale under exceptional
circumstances at a discount all round of 25 per
cent. About £750 required.

6. Watchmaker's, Jeweller's and Post

Office in small town in Herefordshire. For
immediate sale through death. In same hands
fourteen years. Eent only £14 a year. Five-
roomed house and good garden. Eeturns
about £6 a week, post-office extra. £300 to
£400 required.

7. Watchmaker's and Jeweller's in

thriving neighbourhood, twelve miles from
London. In same hands thirty-four years.
Comfortable house, large garden and stables.
Eent on lease only £24 a year. Average re-
turns £8 to £10 a week. Windings £40. A
good jobbing connection. Ill-health sole cause
of sale. £350 all at. An exceptional oppor-
tunity.

8. Watchmaker's and Jeweller's in

flouiisl i g market town, population 10,000,
thirty miles from London. In same hands
thirteen years. Eent £45. Lease sixteen
years unexpired. Good shop and commodious
house. Eeturns £1,000, and. net profit £300.
Ill-health sole cause of sale. About £900
required. Purchase arranged with £650.

9. Watchmaker's and Jeweller's at

Clifton, principally a high-class jobbing busi-
ness. Average takings £4 15s. per week.
Eent £50, four rooms in house. Stock,
fixtures, and goodwill nil for £85.

INDEX TO ADVERTISERS.

10. Small Material and Gilding' Business

for sale in Liverpool. Profit averages Cos. a
week. Vendor going abroad, All for £100.

Further particulars of v>,</ of the above and many
othern, graiii on application.

Ahronsberg, Bros., Birmingham .
Albo Silver Chains . .

Baokes & Strauss, London . .

Baker, C, & Son

Barker, F., & Son, London..
Baylis, Henry, Birmingham
Baume & Co., London
Berend, O., & Co., London
Bloxham, W., Birmingham
Borgzinner Brothers, London
Botwright & Grey, London . .

Box, F. B., London

Brown, W. H., Birmingham
Buyers' Guide

Carley, Geo , & Co., London
Chadburn Bros.

Chapman, Son, and Co., London ..
Clemence Freres, London
Cooper, H. J., & Co., London
Coventry Cycle Manufacturing Co.
Crosby Lockwood & Son . .

Darton

Day, Edward, Birmingham..

Dilger, J., London

Dunlop, C. J., Birmingham. .

Edwards, A., Coventry

Electric Stores, Limited, Cannon Street, E.C

English, E., Manchester

Fattorini & Sons, Bradford . .
Flavell & Co., Coventry
Fletcher and Son, Stoneclough
Ford and Wright, London . .

Garstin. A., & Co., London . . . . . .

Ginder Bros., Birmingham ..
Goldsmiths' and General Burglary Insur-
ance Association, Limited, London
Goode, John, & Sons, Birmingham

Gray, E., & Son, London

Grimshaw & Baxter, London . .

Gripper Thimble . . . . . . •

Guye, P. & A., London .. .. ..

Hammond Creake & Co. . . . .
Harrold, C, & Co . Birmingham . .
Harvey, G. W.. & Co., Birmingham
Haswell. R., & Sons, London
Heuer, Ed., Switzerland
Hewitt, C. T., & Son, Coventry . .

Hill, C. J.. Coventry

Hirst, A. & S., Oldham

Hoi den. T.. Burnley

Hope, Birmingham

Jeannot. Paul, London
Jones, T. Walter, Birmingham
Joseph, B. H., & Co,, Birmingham

Kettle. F. G., London

King & Sous, London

Klose & Zeuner, Silesia, Germany

Koritschoner, D.

Kirkham and Worster, London . .

Kullberg, V., London

Lamb, H. T., Loudon
Langdale, I., Whitby
Levi, S. M., Birmingham
Light, H.. Birmingham
Linegar, T.

Page

vii
xxi

xvm

111

XIX

XXI

xxm

253

xxvii

xxn

XXV

XXV11

Vll

XV111

xxii

XVI

.C. xvi

XIX

xviii

XVII

xix

iii

xvii

XXIV

xxi

xviii
viii

xv
ix
xx

viii

xvi

xxii

xxvi

xvi
xix
xxi

xv
xviii

Mander, H., & Co., Coventry
Meyer, Anton, Stuttgart
Mitlward, W., Birmingham..
Mitchell & Cooper, London
Moore, Joseph, Birmingham
Mott, F., Birmingham

N
Newsome & Co., Coventry

Oliver, J. G., Loudon
Oram, G., & Son, London

Parkes, S., & Sons, Birmingham

Pinfold, A. G

Pringle, Robert, & Co., London
Pontenet, Switzerland

R
Raphael, J., & Co., London. . ..
Reading, N. C, & Co., Birmingham
Robbins & Appleton, London
Rotherham & Sons, Coventry
Round, John, & Son, Sheffield
Round, B. J., Birmingham

Saunders & Shepherd, London
Scott, A.., Birmingham
Sell, H., London
Siegele and Bennett, London
Smith, J., & Son, Derby . .
Smith, T., & Co., London ..
Spencer, J., Birmingham
Spurrier & Co., Birmingham
Starling, J. H., Birmingham
Stauffer, Son, & Co., London
Stokes & Ireland
Scurtevant, T. T., London ..
Swingewood, A., Birmingham
Sydenham, A., Birmingham

Taylor. J. & H„ Birmingham
Thwaites Bros., London
Tripplin, J, London
" Triumph " Lathe

Page
xx

vii

iv
xx
xx

xxi

vi
xix

xxi

xvii

xxvii

xii

xxvi
vii

XX
XXV

xxi
xx

xit

xiii & xiv

xvi

xviii

252

Usher & Cole, London

Vale, Wm. & Sons, Birmingham . . . . xx

Vaughton, Birmingham . . . . . . ix

Vacheron & Constantin, Geneva and London xviii

Wall, T, Birmingham

Walter, W. H., London ..

Weill & Co., London

Westwood, C. & Sons, Birmingham

Whitton, T. M., and Sons, London

Wilkins, J., and Co., London

Woolf, H

xxvi

xxi

iii

WANTED for the Coventry Technical
Institute, a PRINCIPAL "TEACHER,
for the HOROLOGICAL CLASSES.— Apply,
stating qualifications and for further particulars,
to Joseph Player, Hon. Secretary, Horological
Section. 241.

ALERT " CYCLES. First-class variety an I
quality ; cheap for cash or on deferred
payments. Lists free. Agents wanted. Smith,
and Molesworth, Freeth Street Mills, Coventry.

"IT7AR MEDALS.— Wanted to PURCHASE
VV all kinds of Army and Navy Medals.
Good price given for any dated 1848 or earlier.
— A. Lashmoke, Jeweller, 11, Church Street,
Oswestry. 848.

FOR SALE an old - established genuine
Business in main road, S.W. district.
Fair Lease, Stock, and Book Debts. About
£1,800 required. Apply to J. Tripplin, 31,
Holborn Viaduct, London, E.C. 851.

Vol. XVII. No. i.]

JULY i 8 9 i .

[REGISTERED ASk '"NEWSPAPER FOR FOREIGN TRANSMISSION.]

Subscription J Posh

5s. pek Annum, i 1'kubl

Single Copies, 6b.

Edited by W. J. LEWIS ABBOTT, F.G.S.

68, FLEET STREET, LONDON

THE WATCHMAKER, JEWELLER AND SILVERSMITH.

[July 1, 1891.

<Fstairlisbc£« 1674.

Trade M. W. & S * .S. Mark

iERS OF SILVER AND ELECTRO-SILVER PLATED GOODS OF EVERY DESCRIPTION.

Mounted Crown Derby,

Spode and Wedgewood Ware,

&c.

Cruet, Liquor

and Breakfast Frames,

Tea and Coffee Services,

Waiters, Cups, and

Biscuit Boxes.

Spoons and Forks, Fish
Eaters, Desserts, &c.

A Choice Selection always in Stock. Repairs and Re-plating promptly attended to at Moderate Charges. Goods sent on Approval.
EXCHANGE WORKS, ROCKINGHAM STREET, SHEFFIELD.

LIMITED

PEARLS.

RUBIES.

EMERALDS.

SAPPHIRES.

DIAMONDS,

ROUGH & CUT.

DIAMOND GOODS

AND

GEM RINGS.

CATALOGUE

CONTAINING

2,000 DESIGNS

FREE ON APPLICATION.

61 Holborn Viaduct, LONDON.

DEAKIN & FRANCIS,

Patentees of the Hook Brooch, and Collar Fastener.

To Fix the Brooch, insert Hook
A and pull to full extent of
Spring, and then insert Hook 13.

Is instantly attached and perfectly safe.

Draws ends of collar together and keeps them
in place.

Has no projecting point to catch, tong or catch
to break, or joint to become loose.

Is put on the thickest dress with ease.

To Fix the Brooch, insert Hook
A and pull to full extent of
Spring, and then insert Hook B.

17, REGENT PLACE, BIRMINGHAM.

JULY 1, 1891.1

THE WATCHMAKER, JEWELLER AND SILVERSMITH.

DIPLOMA :

MELBOURNE

18°.0-81.

BAUME & CO.

(ESTABLISHED 1834.)

21, HATTON GARDEN, LONDON ;

SWITZERLAND AND COVENTRY.

Watch Manufacturers.

DIPLOMA :

MELBOURNE,

1880-81.

London. 1862.

Berne, 1857.

Evepy description of Ordinary, pine, and Complicated LUatehes, Repeaters,

Chronographs, etc.

English and Sisriss ClHfonometex's.

ENGLISH AND SWISS Watches with Kew A Certificates.

Ae-M,

OPINES 1EYERS,

! MADE ON THE GAUGED AND INTERCHANGEABLE PRINCIPLE.
All parts of Movements supplied entirely finished.

LONGINES CHRONOGRAPHS, WITH
MINUTE RECKONERS.

The Longines Levers were awarded the
GRAND PRIX (Highest possible award), at
the Paris Exhibition, 1889.

MIME # Co., 81, Hatton Garden, London.

6RIiHSHAW 4% BAXTER

2D*akrs in ^MTatcIj anb ®lork ^Mak*rs' Jpnols, ~MiUs an& ^atmals,

Watch Glasses, Main Springs, Hands, &c.

Solc Wholesale Agents for Ezra I^elley's UUateh and Clock Oils.

OUR NEW ILLUSTRATED CATALOGUE OF TOOLS, TURNS, LATHES, &c,

SENT FREE ON APPLICATION.

Price Lists of Clocks and Watches will be forwarded free on presentation of Business Card.

|4o. 33 8t 35, Gosuaell f?oad, Clepkemaell, liondon, E C.

IMPORTANT NOTICE TO THE TRADE.

BRONZHS, CLOCKS, C/^RJDIESX.^.BX&.AufS?, 333ILA.I-S, £sc.

Repaired, parts made, and renovated coral to new; all work done in the fame process as in Pari?. Repairs in general, Bronzing-, Gilding
Plating, Brassing, and Lacquering in all its branches. Est'mates submitted for Town and Country Stock Work. Carriage Cocks polished

and matt gilt.

CHEAPEST HOUSE IN THE TRADE FOR RENOVATING ENGLISH AND FRENCH DIALS.
STATUARY AND INSCRIPTIONS RENOVATED BY CONTRACT.

Church L'ghts, Gaseliers, Electric and Lamp Fitting Brackets, Pook Rests, Communion Plate, &c, re-lacquered, gilt, or p'ated. Experienced

men sent for removing and fixing same. Composition Bronzes can be made by our Colours to look equal to real Works of Art. The New French

Florentine, Barbeoienne, Egyptian Green, Vert Antique, and Empire Bronzes. Specialities.

BUHL WORK REPAIRED AND RESTORED EQUAL TO NEW.

ESTABLISHED LONDON AND PARIS, 1873.

LP«9

11, ST. JOHN STREET ROAD, CLERKENWELL, LONDON.

THE WATCHMAKER, JEWELLER AND SILVERSMITH.

(July 1, 1891.

Telephone No. 4085. Telegraphic Address: SETTERS, BIRMINGHAM. Estimates Free.

GINDER BROS.,

ESTABLISHED 1S71.

^ lljsa, lT)ar)upCiUWi)q Jewellers, Dicirrjorjd. It) ©ur)fer>s, (^©Msrrjli^s

m^^^^^ Silversmiths, GQedallists,

IYInsouic Jewellers. Designs for Jewels forwarded on application. - Stock Goods reset in most Modern nudfArtistic Style. Best Attention
given in Jobbing and Approbation dcpartnients. Heraldic an«l Seal Engravers, Gilders and Platers.

SINGLE stone diamond earrings, also diamond stars, crescents, and pendants kept in stock, new designs continually produced.

47, FREDERICK STREET, BIRMINGHAM.

MANUFACTURERS OF BRIGHT AND COLOURED

GOLD CHAINS, for Home and Shipping Trades.
CTJ^B B^J&CEIiETS RJit> B^QQCJiES,
sals, ^P^ttbattts, attft 4$Mltbal%

IN GREAT VARIETY.
slegrapMe Address: "QUALITY, ^^^^"^^^^^R ^ — ^ JUtorts,

B1RMJNGHAM." ^<^llllP ^^ "Jieeklets & Iiadies' Alberts

OF NEW AND ATTRACTIVE DESIGNS ALWAYS IN STOCK.

j4fli£Li~mR!^ED l^EEPEH t^IfiGS

IN EVERY VARIETY AND QUALITY. ILLUSTRATED CATALOGUES AND PRICE LISTS ON APPLICATION.

If PLACE, IIRMIIGHIM.

>ndon Address: 60, HATTON GARDEN.

THE

"CASTLE"
LINK.

PATENTED.

THE "CASTLE" LINK

IS INSTANTLY INSERTED OR REMOVED.
IS ENTIRELY SELF-ADJUSTING.
DOES NOT CREASE THE CUFF.
DOES NOT WEAR THE BUTTON HOLE.
©3" HAS NO SPRINGS OR COMPLICATED 4^J

PARTS TO GET OUT OF ORDER.

♦ READY FOR INSERTING IN CUFF

/ . ■

IN CUFF.

'I MADE IN

GOLD, SILVER,

T. WALTER JONES, *ff|^,SLr, ,T 0LJ ■; ^;m ,:;;;-,,,

48-5U, HYLTON STREET, BIRMINGHAM. | gold cased,

Telegraphic Address : "STUDS, BIRMINGHAM." ONLY WHOLESALE HOUSES SUPPLIED, I NICKEL SILVER, &C.

July 1, 1891.]

THE WATCHMAKER, JEWELLER AND SILVERSMITH.

OF THE CANTON OF NEUCHATEL (SWITZERLAND),
Upon the Report of the Observatory just issued has awarded

Messrs. STAUFFER, SON & C°'s

(SWISS FIRM)

The FIRST PRIZE and HONOURS

For the highest results just obtained by a. Watch at the Observatory

of Neuchatel, BEATING ALL RECORDS.

Stauffer, Son & Co.,

13, CHARTERHOUSE STREET, Holborn, LONDON,

And CHAUX-DE-FONDS, SWITZERLAND.

MAKERS OF ALL KINDS OF WATCHES.

SWINDEN & SONS

(ESTABLISHED 1825),

^J5>o/tclr

oo\$ • atv3 • ^S^atciicU^.

PRICE LIST on receipt of Business Card.

27, 28 & 29, TEMPLE STREET, BIRMINGHAM.

MANUFACTURER OF

Badges of Every Description.
DIE & SEAL EHGRAMG.

Rings, etc., for Sealing.

CABA1 and INITIAL
PUNCHES.

Chcrhs, labels, etc.

A. FEN WICK CZTlToZ)

16, AUGUSTA STREET, BIRCQIflGHflm.

SOLDERING BLOCKS OF

COMPRESSED CHARCOAL,

PRACTICALLY INDESTRUCTIBLE
FOR JEWELLERS' BLOW-PIPE USE.

Sizes in Stock - 5 in. by 2£ in. by 1 in., 7A per dozen ; 6£ in.

by 1 in. by 1 in., 4/- per dozen. Samples of each size sent Post

free for 1/3. Stamps or R0.0.

PURE ACIDS, GOLD SOLUTIONS, SILVER SOLUTIONS,

ALUM, BORAX, SALTPETRE, etc.

FIRIOES OJST .A. IP IP X, I C .A.T I O UST .

PHILIP HARRIS & CO., Ltd.,

HMcsale dentists,

144 & 146, EDMUND STREET, BIRMINGHAM.

TTTE WATCT-iMAKEB, JEWELLER AND SILVERSMITH.

[July 1, 1891.

BOTWRI6HT

AND

(Late A. H. BOTWRIGHT.)

Manufacturing

WHOLESALE AND

(Established 1865.)

Opticians,

FOR EXPORTATION ONLY.

MAKERS OF EVERY DESCRIPTION OF SPECTACLES AND FOLDERS, IN STEEL, SHELL, GOLD, SILVER AND HORN ; SOLID, NICKEL, GERMAN SILVER, fie, AT THE LOWEST POSSIBLE PRICES

MASON'S IMPROVED OPTOMETER, REGISTERED: Priee 17/6 each, net. Manufactured only by ourselves:
This instrument, while saving time and trouble in testing accurately, denotes the proper strength glasses required by persons suffering from
long, short, or old sight, and is admitted by Scientists to be one of the best instruments in use for measuring the loss of power of the eye. Full

and complete instructions with each.
REPAIRS, OF EVERY DESCRIPTION, IN EVERY CASE WE EXECUTE AND SEND BACK BY RETURN POST.

Oculists' and Hospital Prescriuticms prepared. Sphere- Cylinders and Prisms worked to order, and in every case by return mail.

u r WE INVITE INSPECTION OF OUR LARGE STOCK. s^Gas^ .^nanfekt

FIELD GLASSES

{In variety of Patterns.)

READING GLASSES

{All Sizes.)

TELESCOPES

(All Sizes.)

EXTRA POWER FIELD
GLASSES.

^mil|in:|iul|lli|Uiiil!iU|iUII|l|i|l|ll|l|llillj|i|i|llll|IMI|llll|llllll||ll|iiii|lii>| -1-*!

Best English Clinical Thermometers, with or without Kew Certificates, 22s. per dozen ; Certificates, 13s. per dozen extra.

13, SPENCER ST., CLERKENWELL, LONDON.

Established 1819.

VAUGHTON,

GOT^ie WOF^KS,
Blf^MIJMGH/cM.

N/^OGHTQIS!

MEDALS, BADGES, MASONIC JEWELS,

LISTS FREE.

.St. John's "TSSforka,
92, CLERKENWELL KOAD,

% nitnon, (B.C.

T. T. STURTEYANT,

d>0lb, Hiltor anu Jttctal
plater,
* Eleetro-Plate Manufacturer.

SEND FOR

PRICE LIST
FOR

F(e-plating fjpooqs, porks, Jea 8; Coffee pjerViees, p>al\/ers,
Bislies 8; Coders, Cruet f>\ar\4s, E(@., $q.

FATTOR

NEW

NI & SONS'

PATENT

CTRICALAM/jfe

The only Electric Alarum in the
world that can be carried from
room to room without derange
ment. There is no fixing of
wires, and it can be placed
anywhere like an ordinary
Carriage Clock. Will not / Sl^
stop ringing until you
get up and turn off
the switch.

The

Cheapest

Wholesale

House in the

Country for

High-class

WflLTHflm

RETAIL PRICE

35/-

Dry Battery
can he sent
to any part
of the
World.

WHOLES AL

The Trade supplied
at the Lowest

Finest Vienna Regulators

The Best in the Trade', delivered Car-
riage Free from the factory direct.
New Designs in Marble, Onyx, and
other Clocks.

ft&mTL BRADFORD.

July 1, 1891.]

THE WATCHMAKER, JEWELLER AND SILVERSMITH.

1. 3. Greenberg & Co.,

Jewellers, Silversmiths, Watch and Clock Manufacturers and Importers,

Plate and Bullion Dealers.

TERMS :
NETT, MONTHLY.

We give better value than any other house in the trade, and send out all

Goods at the Prices advertised.

r, etc

Hall-Marked 18-ct. Alberts, fashion included 72/6 oz.

„ „ 15-ct. „ „ „ 63/-

9-ct. „ „ 40/-

Gents' Hall-Marked Silver Alberts 5/-

Ladies' Silver Tassel Alberts, -800 quality 7/6

H.M. 18-ct. Keeper Rings, fashion 15/- doz. Gold ... 68/-
H.M. 9-ct. Keeper Rings, fashion 7/6 doz. „ ... 34/-

22-ct. Wedding Rings 83/6

18-ct. „ „ 72/6

9-ct. „ „ 40/-

9-ct. H.M. Signets ... 2/- 2/3 2/6 2/9 3/- 3/6 3/9 4/-
9-ct. H.M. Imitation Diamond Rings, finest quality from 2/-

9-ct. H.M. Ladies' Fancy Rings, Real Stones „ 2/6

Hall-Marked Silver Medals, fashion included .:. ... 7/3 oz.

„ „ Rings . „ „ 7/6 „

„ „ ,, Brooches from6/-doz.

„ „ „ Seals ... 1/- ea.

,, ,, ,, Fusee Boxes and Cigarette Cases ... 9/- oz.

Best Finish Pure White Metal (all through) Alberts ... 4/6 doz.

Special line in best Nickel-Plated Steel Alberts ...from 1/- ,,

Every description of Amethyst, Topaz, Garnet, Steel, Gilt and
Plated Jewellery of the newest patterns kept in stock.
Special line in E.P. on B.M. best quality Tea and Coffee
Sets, from 11/- the set of four.
CIjOCKS.

Marble Clocks, from

1-Day Nickel. Time, 1/10, Alarm

Rosewood and Gilt Cottage. Time. 2/3, Alarm

Vienna Weight Regulators, 8-day, 44-in long

Best French Carriage Clocks, in cases, from 15/- to ...
The " Parker," in brass drum and morocco leather case
The " Bee," in London-made morocco leather cases ...
Anglo-Americans, " Jerome " movement, in English-
made cases, from

BRITISH UNITED CLOCKS.

We make a special leading line of the above.
Price Lists and Pattern Sheets on application.

EKT&LISH -WATCHES.

Highly-Finished Silver Crystal Fusee Lever 43/-

Do. ' do. do. Going Barrel

Highly-Finished Silver, Deep Pillar, Bold Dial, Crystal,
Improved Patent English Fusee Lever, 20 size,
50/-, 21 size, 52/6, 22 size

Highly-Finished Silver Crystal Fusee Lever, Expansion
Balance, Sprung above, Silver Dial, Gold Chapters,
21 size

Highly - Finished Silver, Crystal Centre Seconds,
Chronograph Fusee, 6 Holes Extra, Expansion
Balance, Cream Double Sunk Dial

Highly - Finished Silver Fusee Lever, Expansion
Balance, Sprung above, Engraved Cases, Gold
Garter, Silver Dial with Gold Figures, suitable for
the Scotch Market

geneva •w^L.'rcsmis

Ladies' Gold 9-ct. Substantial Cases, highly-finished
movement, Gilt or Ivory Dial . . .
„ „ 14-ct. „ „

» „ 18-ct.

„ „ 9-ct. Strong Case, Specialitie

,, „ 9-ct. Lever, 16 lines, Extra Heavy

Cases, Compensation Balance, Full

Jewelled

,, 14-ct.

7/6 each

2/7

J J

3/-

18/6

»>

£5

4/-

3/9

11/6

41/-

55/-

60/-

65/-

62/-

each.

17/6
21/6
26/6
21/-

each.

38/-
46/-

GENEVA WATCH ES -Continued.
Ladies' Gold 14-ct. 15 Lines, Extra Heavy, Bassine
Cases, Richly Engraved, Jewelled
8 Holes, Gold or Rich Ivory Dial... 35/- each.
,, ,, The same Watch with Keyless action 38/- ,.,

,, „ 18-ct., Extra Heavy Cases, Key- winder 48/- ,,

,. ,, „ ,, Keyless 51/- „

,, ,, 9-ct. 15 lines, Extra Heavy, Bassine

Cases, 8 Holes Jewelled, Gold or

Ivory Dial, Keyless 27/6 ,,

Gents' Gold 9-ct. Lever, Key-winder, Extra Heavy
Case, Compensation Balance,
Jewelled in 10 holes ..; ... 42/- ,,

„ 14-ct. „ „ ... 50/- „

Ladies' Silver, Fancy Dial 9/- ,,

„ Sterling Silver ... 11/- ,,

„ „ „ Richly Engraved Bassine Case 12/6 „

„ Ivory Dial 14/- „

„ „ „ f-plate, Ivory or Silver Dials, 15/- „

„ „ „ f-plate, Ivory Dial, with.

Seconds 15/- ,,

,, ,, ,, Bassine Case,Richly Engraved

Lever, Jewelled in 10 holes,
Sunk Dials with Seconds 23/6 „
Gents' Silver f-plate, 19 and 20-line, Strong Cases 10/- ,,

„ Silver Chronographs with Silver Dome 13/- ,,

,, Sterling Silver f-plate, 8 holes Jewelled ... 14/- ,,
„ „ „ 20-line f-plate Lever, Compen-

sation Balance, Double
Sunk Dial. Full Jewelled- 23/6 ,,
,, „ „ „ Full-Plate Lever, Com-

pensation Balance,
Light or Bold Dials 23/6 ,,
„ ,, ,, ,, Half Bassine Case,

"International" Key-
less Lever, Breguet
Spring and Compen-
sation Balance, full
Ruby Jewelled, in
Gold Settings (A
Grand Watch) ... 35/- ,,
Bracelet' Watches, in Gold and Silvsr. kept in stock.
Every mate of Swiss Watches supplied Irom stock.

Note. — We sell the -Alpine" and "Paragon" Watches (as
advertised) cheaper than any other house in the Trade. Samples
on approbation.

TMKH'XrJl.lM 1VATCIISS.

Gents' Nickel Key- winder with Dome and Enamel Dial 4/- each.
„ „ Keyless „ „ „ 5/9 ,,

„ Real •■ Victoeia," with Metal Dome 7/3 ,,

„ Pure White Metal, all through " Argentine "

Keyless, with Dome, will wear like Silver ... 8/6 ,,
„ Pure White Metal all through Chronographs,

Snap '8/- ,,

„ ,, „ ,, Sprung Cases 8/6 ,,

„ Pure White Metal all through "Stag" full-
plate Levers, Bold and L'ght Dials, with
Trade-marls " Stag" and " Silverus " ... 9- ,,

"■TO-AI.THAM" "WATCHES.

The Cheapest House in the Trade for every description of the
above, in Ladies' and Gents' Gold and Silver Keyless and Key-
winding. Price List on Application.

Repairs and Mountings done in the very best style at Moderate Charges, and returned same day.
Approbation Orders. — A large selection of Diamond Rings and Ornaments. Bright and Colored Gold and Silver Jewellery,

Watches and Plate kept in Stock for approbation.

32, YYSE ST., Birmingham

TELEGRAPHIC ADDRESS —"GREENBER, G, BIRMINGHAM."
*% To Insure immediate attention all first Orders should he accompanied by Trade or Bank References.

YU1

THE WATCHMAKER, JEWELLEE, AND SILVERSMITH.

[July 1, 1891.

INTERNATIONAL EXHIBITION,
18G2.

JURORS MEDAL.
4***********************1

ESTABLISHED 50 YEARS.

Chronometer Makers to:
the Admiralty.

♦♦♦♦♦♦♦♦♦♦♦♦♦♦♦♦♦♦♦♦♦♦♦«T

SPECIAL ATTENTION

COLONIAL

AND

FOREIGN ORDERS.

HASWELL & SONS,

49 & 50, <ppexxcex <ptveet, Q£ev&eyxvea.

" triumph;

^^^c^^Cv "BOLEY'S," "MARTIN

^ W „

GO-AHEAD" LATHES,

^d* With all Accessories.

GENERAL ILLUSTRATED PRICE LIST ON APPLICATION.

*****************************

Established 50 Years.

INVENTIONS EXHIBITION, 1885

HIGHEST AWARD, SILVER MEDAL.

NON-MAGNETIC COMPENSATED WATCHES, BRACELET WATCHES, AND ALL VARIETIES.
ormolu, London. THE HOUSE FOR FASHIONABLE NOVELTIES.

222 8c 224, GOSWELL EOAD, LONDON, E.C.

manufacturing Silversmiths and Jeuuellers,

ART METAL AND FANCY LEATHER WORKERS,

Originators and Makers of the Untarnishable Plated Filigree Photo-frames. Fancy Leather Goods with Silver

H.M. and Untarnishable Plated Mounts. Specialities for Presents. Registered Novelties. Art Designers.
Photo-frames. Mirrors. Brushes and Toilet Sets. Thermometers and Barometers. Clocks. Table Ornaments.
Pincushions. Watch Stands. Jewel Cases. Puff and Sweet Boxes. Reading Glasses. Button-hooks and Shoe-
lifts. Paper-knives, Buckles, Clasps. Chatelaines and Fittings. Belts and Bags. Flower Vases, etc.

In Silver H.M. and Untarnishable Plate. Leather, with Fancy Mounts.
LOOK HERE every month for our Illustrated Novelties.

Reading Glasses.

With. Silver and Plated Mounts.

Ladies' Brushes, Silver and Plated.

Brush and Toilet Suites in cases. Ebony Brushes.

The Walnut Pin-
cushion.
Untarnishable Plated,
1 8/- per dozen.

Buekles and Clasps. Chatelaines & Fittings. Seent Bottles.

New Patterns for the A large and varied assort- All sizes and shapes, Cut

Season in Silver, Plated, ment in Silver. Plated, G-lassand Silver Mounted,

and Oxydized. aEd Oxydized. 21/- to 42/- dozen.

The Registered Ball
Clock.

Fitted with English 8
day and 30 hour move-
ments.

PRICES OF ABOVE and ILLUSTRATED PRICE LISTS sent free on application.

KING & SONS, Manufacturers, 222 & 224, Goswell Rd., London, E.C.

July 1, 1891.]

THE WATCHMAKER, JEWELLER AND SILVERSMITH.

C. J. PLUCKNETT & CO, 29, Poland St., London, W.

INSTANTANEOUS

:!'; •■■■■■ J,;. ':'[/:;; " i

For use on Piercing',
Buhl, Fret, and other
Saw-Frames.

THE GRIP takes the place of the ordinary Screw, and is invaluable to piercers and all using a Saw
frame. By a simple pressure of the Thumb or Finger on the Lever, the Saw is released or made
last in a moment. It is practically everlasting.

8s. per doz. • • Can be fitted to old frames at Is. each.

SAW-FRAMES COMPLETE, FITTED WITH THE GRIP, 1/9, 2/6, 3/-, 3/6 to 6/- EACH.

Supplied by all Tool Material dealers everywhere.

C.J. Plucknett&Cc,

29, POLAND STREET,

LONDON, W.

Dealers in Gold and Silver, Jewellers

and Watchmakers' Tools and Materials,

Files, Piercing Saws, Watch Glasses,

Hands, &c, &c.

OLD GOLD AND SILVER BOUOHT BY ASSAY.

Manufacturers and Dealers in Watch and Clock Makers and Jewellers3 Tools and

Materials of every Description.

BOLEY LATHES AND TOOLS,

TRIUMPH, MARTIN, AND GO-A-HEAD LATHES ALWAYS IN STOCK.

AGENTS FOR THE CELEBRATED V.T.F. WATCH GLASSES.
Full Detailed Illustrated Catalogue on application. Special Quotations for Large Buyers.

Jobbing- -a. Sx>x:ciA.x.iT^r.

Keyless Winding Wheels, Clock Wheels and Pinions Cut to Patterns.

Watch, Clock and Jewellery Repairs of every Description.

34, UNION STREEtT^LDHAMTlANCASHIRE.

HIGHEST POSSIBLE PRICES GIVEN.

j, CcmSjcott ;

128, Gt. HAMPTON STREET,

BIllIlfHAM,

ajzwette/i, SitW^m-U/rV, and %\\Xtiow Qeat&z,

PURCHASES for CASH at Highest Possible Prices,

SECOND-HAND GOLD and SILVER WATCHES, Jewellery,

Antique Silver, Diamonds, and all kinds of PRECIOUS

STONES. Having large connection for the above, enables

me to give more than other buyers.

PRICE LIST FOR OLD GOLD AND SILVER,

22ct. Wedding Rings
22ot. Watch Cases . . .
ISct. do. do.
18ct. Rings ...

15ct. Gold

12ct. Gold

9ct. Gold

Coloured Gold

Chains (Gold)

Earrings

Platinum

Gold Teeth Plates ...

Sterling Silver

Watch Cases

76/6

70/-

60/-

61/-

51/-

41/-

31/-

40/- to 50/-

25/- to 30/-

10/-

20/- to 30/-

40/- to 50/-

4/4

3/10

Country Parcels, Cheque or Postal Order per return.

128, GT. HAMPTON STREET

Baukers —Lloyds' Limited, Colmore Row, Birmingham.

WHOLESALE AGENTS FOR BRANDRETH'S FILES, AND BRUTON'S
PAINTS AND ENAMELS.

H. MANDER & CO.,

DBALEBI IN

ENGLISH AND FOREIGN MATERIALS AND TOOLS,

Wholesale and for Exportation,
75, SPOfi EfiD, COVEJ^T^Y.

H. M. & CO. wish specially to call attention to the fact that being
trained as Watch Finishers, they are enabled to give the necessary
supervision to all Springs, Chains, and Materials they offer, and
guarantee all their goods to be carefully selected from t^e very best
makers.

H. M. & CO. have just added a NEW WING FOR WATCH
JOBBING FOR THE TRADE. Price Lists on application. Watches,
Clocks, and Jewellery Repaired.

All kinds of Engraving done. Watches and Clocks Repaired.
Prices on application.

CHARLES BAKER & SON,

MANUFACTURERS OF

Gilt and Plated Jeuaelle^y,

Canadian Single and Treble Gold-cased Ladies' and Gents'

Alberts, Seals, Charms.

ALBERT AND GUARD CHAINS, RINGS,

BROOCHES, PINS, EARRINGS, LOCKETS, Ac

Also Gold and Silver Mounted Hair Alberts, Pencil Cases,

Bars, Snaps, &c.
Speciality— Gold-cased Gents' and Ladies' Alberts, reliable

in quality, guaranteed to resist the action of any acid.
Representative tor SCOTLAND,

Mr. MUDIE, I09, Argyle Street, GLASGOW.

Labels, with C. B. & S.'s Initials and Trade Mark on all Goods, to bo had through
all respectable; Wholesale Houses.

THE WATCHMAKEE, JEWELLER AND SILVERSMITH.

[July 1, 1891.

Special Season $obrltn.

Carved Pearl Pansy
Brooches.

W. K.

i*f

^^ofesate §ewettex,

facial Season $)tooelig.

Violin & Banjo Brooches
in Black & White Pearl.

81, NEWGATE STREET, LONDON, E.C.,

IMPORTER OF NOVELTIES IN

FRENCH. AUSTRIAN, AND ITALIAN FANCY JEWELLERY, FINEST CORAL BEADS AND SNAPS.

FRENCH, ROMAN AND ORIENT PEARLS, PASTE JEWELLERY, BUCKLES HAIR ORNAMENTS, &c.

CHATELAINES AND FITTINGS OF EVERY DESCRIPTION; SILVER, SILVER PLATED AND

OXYDISED METAL AND STEEL. SOVEREIGN PURSES IN GOLD, SILVER AND METAL.

SILVER-MOUNTED TOILET BOTTLES AND SILVER-MOUNTED BRUSHES OF ALL KINDS.

Registered
Telegraphic Address:

" IVY
LONDON."

A LARGE ASSORTMENT OFFINEST STEEL JEWELLERY ALWAYS IN STOCK.

C. T. HEWITT & SON, -XlWabb ManuKurBrs,P*» "' Coventry!

The Senior Partner was for 32 years with the late Mr. C. Flint, and for the last 10 years occupying the position of Foreman to the same.

^BR00CHES,WATCHESyOETClN|ljmflTE FOR PRICE LIST X PATTERNS TO

COVERED WITH
LEATHER.PLUSH.VELVET, ETC

8,lonc Lane London. e,c|

WINDOW STANDS]
». TRAYS

pectacle cases I

& RING CASES
UR SPECIALITIES!

OLD GOLD BOUGHT. ...

... BANGLES, RINGS, TO ORDER. «*

SMVASIrlVSBO 1874.

Trade
S.H.

Mark

HOPE

Trade

S.H.
Mark

GOLD WEDDING RING MANUFACTURER,

Uanlura: — Hational I^oyingial Ban^ op Gngland, Iximijpbd, Birmingham.

Registered Telegraphic Address: "HOPEFUL," BIRMINGHAM.

July 1, 1891.]

THE WATCHMAKER, JEWELLER AND SILVERSMITH.

THE WHITEST ALLOY
INVENTED

Critics on JUbo ^ilber.

" The alloy registered under the name of ' Albo
Silver,' is peculiarly suitable for the manufacture
of Chains and Jewellery ; it has the whiteness of
grain silver, without a tinge of the yellow or the
leady colour generally characteristic of alloys of this
kind. Indeed, so highly was it reported on at the
British Association Exhibition by the authorities
of Mason College, that at their request samples in
ingot and in a manufactured state were perma-
nently deposited in the museum of that institu-
tion."— The Watchmaker, Jeweller and Silversmith.

N. G. READING & Co.,

186, 187, Warstone Lane,

^ilYer % Qold Plated Chains

Proprietors and Sole Manufacturers oj
tlie Celebrated Registered

"HLBO SILVER"

Chains & Jewellery,

iT^9 Whitest /Mloy indented.
As durable in wear as fine Silver.

Regist'd "WARSTONE BEST"
Gold Cased Chains.

Warranted positively to resist Acids.

MIDGET, LADIES' ALBERTS.
COMPASS CHARMS, SEALS, AND LOCKETS.

N. C. R.'s goods can be pm-chased through all
respectable Wholesale houses.

®6^o^/ue^£^^

AS DURABLE IN WEAR]
AS FINE SILVER

TIIK

Critks on JUba Hilber.

The Jeweller and Metalworker says : — " Without
wishiDg to disparage the manufactures of several
well-known houses, which are excellent in their
way, we must admit that ' Albo Silver ' is a
metal which, by reason of its pure whiteness and
freedom from any leaden or brassy tints, holds the
foremost position among white metals. It is made
up into various articles of Jewellery, such as
ladies' and gents' chains, seals, lockets, vesta
boxes, &e. Every article bears a registered parch-
ment label, and all swivels are marked N.C.R.Oo.
We can safely recommend our country and
colonial friends to order throusrh their facto
goods bearing these marks and labels."

CMS. HABBOLD & CO

No. 2 & 3, ST. PAUL'S SQUARE, BIRMINGHAM,

•»

SSAYERS, itpiNERS, AID STEALERS II f ELM,

FINE GOLD IN SHEET OR GRAIN; FINE SILVER IN SHEET, GRAIN, OR INGOT;

STERLING SILVER IN INGOTS OR SHEET; FINE AND STERLING WIRES,

ANY SIZES AND PATTERNS.

Patent Watch Pendants, Blanks, Stampings, Beads, &c.

SILVER SOLDERS, ALL QUALITIES ; PURE COPPER FOR ALLOYS.

GOLD, SILVER, AND PARTING B9RS BOUGHT BY ASSAY.

The Full Market Value given for Old Gold, Silver, Lace, Watch Cases ;

ALSO

Jewellers', Dentists' Sweeps, Polishings, and Photographers' Waste.

Remittances forwarded and prompt attention paid to Paroels
received from the Country,

W. BLOXHAM,

183, HOCKLEY ST„

BIRMINGHAM.

SPECIALITIES :

PIVOTING & JEWELLING.

All kinds of Jewellery repaired.

PRICE LIST OBI APPLICATION.

CJ I li

UJJ

—AND CO. —

[amtfatiuring

OPTICI/rNS,

^■'^MfBk

OXFORD STREET,

Lenden, W.

THE House for every conceivable kind of Optical Goods.

OPTICIANS AND THE TRADE WOULD DO WISELY TO GIVE A GALL OR WRITE.

12, 13, 14, 15, & 24, ST. JOHN'S LANE, CLERKENWELL, LONDON,

gmporters cm6 $enerct£ factors.

Clocks, Watches, Gold and Silver Jewellery. All kinds of Fancy Goods. Watch and Clockmakers' Materials.

Watch Glasses, Main Springs, Hands, Watch and Clock Oil ; Paste, Steel and Jet Brooches and Earrings ; Silk, Rorn^

Vulcanite, Steel and Black Bead Alberts; Spectacles, Eye- Glasses, Beading Glasses; Table Cutlery.
THE MANUFACTURERS' WHOLESALE HOUSE FOR—

E. P. Tea Sets, Salad Bowls, Liqueur Frames, Cruets, Sugars,
Inkstands, Biscuits, Prize Cups, Nickel Silver and E. P.
Spoons and Forks, Fish Eaters, Dessert Sets, Fish Carvers
BROOCHES, EARRINGS, STUDS, SPECTACLES, JEWELLERY, ETC, '

Walton's Specialities, Jones' Castle Links, Collapsible

Drinking Cup, Mexican Silver Alberts.

N. C. Beading's Albo-Silver Chains and Jewellery, Birch's Keys Dorcas

Thimbles, the Gripper Thimble. Barrett's Coin Mounts. All other

Coin Mounts. Progress Screws. British United Clocks.

HAVING NO TRAVEi ^ERS WE INVITE YOU TO CALL OR SEND AND COMPARE OUR PR'OE°

THE WATCHMAKER, JEWELLER AND SILVERSMITH.

[July 1, 1891.

JOHN • ROUND Nr

*-»@J LiimiTED. p***

-* 5 • SON,

SHEFFIELD fl*D LONDON.

TELEGRAPHIC ADDRESSES— " ROUNDS, SHEFFIELD;" "ROUNDS, LIMITED, LONDON."

NEW REGISTERED COFFEE SPOONS.

Drawn full- size, and supplied in "Cases containing 6 or 12 Spoons and 1 pair Tongs in each case.

SHAMROCK.

THISTLE.

COMBINATION.

HARP.

PRIMROSE,
GILT TOP.

Cheapest House in the trade for Silver Spoons and Forks. Large Stock kept ready- for immediate delivery,,

LARGEST MAKERS OF SPOONS AND FORKS IN THE WORLD.

Our New Supplementary Catalogue is now ready for delivery, and may be had by the Trade only, Post Free on application.

July 1, 1891.]

THE WATCHMAKEB, JEWELLEE AND SILVEESMITH.

ROBERT PRINGLE & COMPANY

siiiVsrsike:

WILDERNESS WORKS, 40 and 42, CLERKENWELL ROAD, LONDON, E.G.,

Beg to inform Shopkeepers and Dealers that they now have a well assorted Stock of the following goods in

SIX.

II M. ditto, ditto, in cases of pairs
H.M. ditto, ditto, in cases singly
H.M. ditto Salt Cells and Spoons, in

cases of four
H.M. ditto, ditto, in cases of pairs
H.M. ditto Muffineers, in cases of pairs

H.M. Silver Napkin Rings in cases of H.M. Silver Apostle and other 5 o'clock H.M

Tea Spoons, in cases of six i H.M.

l.M. ditto Children's Knife, Fork, and HI.

Spoon, in cases

H.M. ditto Children's Spoon & Fork, H.M.

in cases H.M.

H.M. ditto Ladies' Card Cases, in cases H.M.

H.M. ditto Gents' ditto, ditto H.M.

H.M. ditto Children's Cans

Silver Fancy Salt Spoons
ditto Fancy Mustard Spoons
ditto Fruit Knives (pearl & ivory

handles)
ditto Butter Knives ditto, ditto
ditto Match Boxes
ditto Cigarette Cases
ditto Sovereign Purses

Most of the above Goods can also he had in ELECTRO-PLATE. Send for Price Lists, or give the firm a call.

FREDERICK STREET, BIRMINGHAM.

Sole Licensees for the NEW " INYICTA " BROOCH.

A 1> VANTAGE S.

1st. — Xo projecting points, thus preventing
injury to children, etc.

2nd. — The facility with which it can be
attached or removed.

3rd. — Greater safety.

Special designs prepared for all Mounting Orders

ELECTRIC WATCH STAND.

^KTHE "ALADDIN" ELECTRIC WATCH
|t STAND brilliantly illuminates the dial
of the Watch.

PRICE £1 Is.
ELECTRIC PORTABLE LAMPS

For every purpose, in numerous styles, for the

table, carriage, bicycle, library, for travelling,

invalids, night lights, &c, &c.

Please write for Terms to

O. BEREND & Co.,

(BIcr.trir.aI (Engineers,

61, FORE STREET, LONDON, E.C-

Prov. Protected, Xo. 7677. Perfect safety. Breakages reduced to a minimum.

No. 1 sketch shows Brooch with |
pin B closed. No. 2 sketch shows
pin B drawn out. Insert the pin
A in the dress and secure Brooch
by closing pin B, as shown in
section sketch No. 3.

ABVAHTAGES.

4th. — Complete immunity from breakages
of joints, pins or catches.

5th. — Has all the advantages of a
safety Brooch without the difficulty of
adjustment.

Strict attention paid to Appro. Orders and Repairs.

ESTIMATES FREE FOR
HIGH -CLASS INSTALLATIONS.

ESTABLISHED IS:iO,

manufacturer of ail kinds of LUatehes.

CHOP^.RD,

SONVILLIER, (SWITZERLAND),

(Successor of F. Chopaed.)

Exportation of Good Medium Keyless and Key Watches to

all Covin tries.

SPECIALITIES OF ENGLISH STYLE (H. 1132, J..).

Large and Small "Watches, Hunters and Open Faces.

British and Foreign Watch Repairing
Company to the Trade.

gsalsrs tit iHoSrements ants UttTattlj Materials.

Cylinders, 2/-; Staffs, 2 -; other Jobbing1

equally cheap.

63, St. John's Spare, Cierkenwell, London.

TRADE VALUATIONS.

SPECIAL BUSINESS-PROVINCIAL STOCKS.

.£4,000 and under. Apply to

MR. GEO. S. PAYNE,

(Of Payne and Son, Oxford , Abingdon, Wallingfordy and
Tunbridge Wells),

131, HIGH STREET, OXFORD.

B U R C LARY I N S U RAN CE.-lsi January, 1891.
Insurance Risks.

Business Premises — Burglary, including theft from windows or counter cases at
any lime, except by employees, or members of insurer's household. Five

Shillings per cent.

Ditto with precautions satisfactory to underwriters. Three and Fourpene

per cent-

Ditto ditto Stocks valued at £'20,000 or above. Two and Sixpence per cent.

Manufacturers can insure their goods out on approval separately from the stock
on their premises, on a floating policy, at any shop, warehouse, or premises, at Five
Shillings per cent., but assurers must insure to the full value of the property out on
approval in the aggregate ; in such a case the "average clause" of Lloyd's polity
would only apply to the goods remaining on srock in their premises.

Poli ies to cover risk of fire and theft can be issued at a slightly lower rate than
the present Fire premium and the above rates added together.

All Risk Policies

(not to cover employees' integrity, but to insure against theft during journey by rail, in the
street, or losses from burglary or fire).
Travellers ' Stocks, in Great Britain and Ireland. Twenty Shillings per cent-
Ditto in London, between 9 a.m. and 9 p.m. Fifteen Shillings per cent-
Manufacturers and dealers' stocks (all risks) can be insured time after time at
cheaper rates. Underwriters will not give a 12 months' policy at a less premium
ihan Twenty Shillings per cent, (all risks), but will give a 14 days' policy for One
Shilling per cent., or for a month at Two Shillings per cent., and so on in proportion,
limited to England, Scotland and Wales.

Post and Conveyance.

Registered Post Packages, and Parcels registered Post, Great Britain and Ireland.
Sixpence per cent.

Parcels, Great Britain and Ireland. Ninepence per cent. The Contin ent of
Europe (registered post), Ninepence per cent.; (parcels; One Shilling per
cent. _

TOM. M. WILLIAMS,

Dealer in Antique Jewellery and Plate^Qeneral Insurance Broker, and to effect

Insurances with Lloyd's Underwriters. Auctions attended for from 10s. Gd:

125, WARDOTJR STREET. W.

XIV

THE WATCHMAXER, JEWELLER AND SILVERSMITH.

[July 1, 1891.

Established 1863.

WATCH MANUFACTURERS AND IMPORTERS OF MUSICAL BOXES
SPECIALITI ES:

"THE ASCOT"

REGISTERED CHRONOGRAPH MINUTE RECKONER

The WINNER."

A Double-split Non-magnetic Chrono-
graph, Quadruple Dial and Minute
Recorder, with

PATENT CONTINUOUS SPLIT ACTION.

file Celebrated JVEacIiine- irtade
ccBI£rI#6D'ES?9

In Gold, Silver, and Nickel.

Levers & Horizontals.

Keyless & Non-Keyless.

cBtace-fet ^Patches, Split Cl^^onoa^apl^5, <£fLon-Q\Laqmtic and Qalcndat fyVatche.?.
ILLUSTRATED CATALOGUE ON APPLICATION.

3, HOLBORN CIRCUS, LONDON, E.C.

AND 40, RUE LEOPOLD-ROBERT, CHAUX-DE-FONDS, SWITZERLAND.

ENGLISH, SWISS
AMERICAN

WATCHES

Gold, Silver & Metal.

English, French,
American, and
German

CLOCKS

Every Make
in Stock.

DIAMOND,
GOLD,
SILVER,
JET and

Fancy Jewelry.

Everything
for Ladies' &

Gentlemen's
wear.

All Novelties
as they issue.
Materials and
every requi-
site for the
trade.

Purses,
Chatelaine,

And every description
of Fancy Plate in Hall
marked Silver and Best
Electro-Plate.

Cigar,
Cigarette,
Vesta and
Card Cases,
Button Hooks,
Paper Knives,
Apostle

Spoons,
Fruit Knives,
Pickle Forks,
Salts,
Scent Bottles
Sovereign

Our
Illus-
trated
Price List

contains nearly
2,000 illustra-
tions of the
Newest Designs in
all goods ; also a
Table of Plate Hall
Marksfrom 1858 to date,
Specimens of Engravings
in Colours, a List of useful
Books of Eeference, Watch
Size Gauge, and much in-
teresting information.
IT CAN BE HAD FREE.

Business Card must be sent with
Application-

6d.
6d.

.. 40s. per oz.

Ladies' from 8s. 6d.

„ 8s. 9d.

9ct.

20s.

London-made 9ct. Alberts, Hall-marked on every link, fashion included ..

Nickel Keyless Watches Gents' from 5s.

Silver Watches . . • • • • • • • • • • • • • • » » 10s.

Gold Watches

H „ 18ct. English Keyless, three-quarter plate Levers

n „ 10 holes jewelled, chronometer balance, very strong cases

" Bee " Clocks, in London-made Leather Cases complete
Hall-marked Silver Mounted Malacca Walking Sticks
„ „ Name Brooches, any name

Telegraphic Address :-" HENCOOP, LONDON."

H.J. COOPER & CO., LTD., 150, Oxford Street, London.

WHOLESALE ONLY.

Gents' £10 12s. 6d.

Ladies' £7 12s. 6d.

3s. 9d. each.

from 2s. 9d. each.

... Is. each.

July 1, 1891.]

THE WATCHMAKER, JEWELLER AND SILVERSMITH.

Telegraph Address-SYDEN HAM, BIRMINGHAM.

Telephone Address— 4,059-

A. SYDENHAM,

Wholesale & manufacturing Jeweller,

26, Frederick St., BIRMINGHAM

For Home zinci Export.

A. SYDENHAM for MEDALS

For Athletic Sports,

Skating, Yachting,

Boating, Curling,

Golfing, Swimming,

Shooting, &c.

Agricultural Shows.

Root, Bird, Dog,
Babbit, Horse, Bee,

Pigeon, Canary,
Poultry Shows, &c.

DRAWINGS and
PRICES

On Application.

SOVEREIGN
PURSES,

All Hall-marked.

Silver, plain ... 5/6
„ engraved 6/9
,, fancy ... 7/6

A. SYDENHAM has
a charming lot of all
sorts of small Silver
ware of a similar de-
scription to the above
articles.

15-ct. Hall-marked Fischu Brooches as

drawings below.

No. X2030.

All Gold .. 13/6

Pearl Cluster Centre,
18/-

Single Diamond Centre
23/-

No. 2920.
All Gold.

12/6
Pearl,

15 6
Diamond

22/6

No. 2956.
All Gold,

13/6
Pearl Single,

16/6
Pearl Clstr..

18/6
Diamond,

23/6

No. 3004.
All Gold,

14/-
Pearl arid
Ruby,
17/6
Rose and
Ruby,
18/6

No. X1904.
All Gold,

-3dGMTt it£kraE~^-..-e » Pearl Centre,

•-•t« *, 13/-

14/-

SYDENHAM'S DIAMOND and GEM

SET BROOCHES.

These
diamond and gem
set Gold Butter-
fly Brooches are
the prettiest
things ever made.
Pearl bodies as
sketch, 75/- each.
Can be used as
brooch or hair
ornament.

A variety of other lovely designs similar in style
such as dragon flies, diamond swallows, diamond
crescents, diamond stars, diamond fischus, and
pearl, gem, and diamond set fancy designs in
great variety.

ALBERT CHAINS of every description.

18-ct. and 9-ct. Hall-marked Alberts. Silver Hall-
marked Alberts. At lowest prices.
Ladies' colored gold Alberts. Ladies' bright gold
Alberts. Gents' cable and fancy Alberts. Gents'
showy polished Alberts.
Boys' silver Alberts, 4/6 each
Ladies' silver Alberts, 3/- each and upwards.

A. SYDENHAM'S DIAMOND AND
GEM RINGS.

Ladies' Half - hoop Gem
Rings — All Diamond, 30/0 to
100/0 ; Diamond and Ruby
25/0 to 100/0.

Ladies' Boat Set. Diamond
Rings at all prices.

Ladies' Diamond and Gem Set Rings

of every other description, 15/- to £25.

Ladies' 15-ct. Engagement
Rings, same as drawing, and
other pretty designs ; sell
very well. Real Diamond.
12/6 each.

Ladies' 15ct. Ruby and
Pearl Gem Ring?, like draw-
ing, and various other most
saleable patterns. 12/6 each.

Ladies 9ct. Rings — each.
Half -hoops, all corals ... 6/0

Ditto, garnets 6/0

Ditto, garnets & pearls . . . 6/0
Ditto, corals & pearls ... 6/0

Ladies' 9ct. Rings. This
pattern and many other very
saleable patterns.

All 5/0 each.

Ladies' 9ct. Rose Diamond
and Ruby Rings. Various
very pretty saleable designs.
All 5/6 each.

Gentlemen's Diamond Rings

at all prices.

Gentlemen's 18-ct., 15-ct., and 9-ct. Signet Rings
in great variety.

A. SYDENHAM'S SILVER NAME
BROOCHES

Are having a Grand Sale.

English Rose. 1/6. Please write for samples.

Keepers - 18 Carat— To those of my friend
home and in the Colonies who have not
yet seen my splendid selection of 18 ct.
Keepers, I ask them to take an early
opportunity of buying samples of these
choice goods at the most reasonable prices.

Keepers— 9 Carat— The finest stock of 9-carat
Keepers in the Trade.

WALTHAM WATCHES.

A. Sydenham has just added to his splendid

stock a full selection of

GOLD AND SILVEB WALTHAM

WATCHES,

and will be much obliged for your orders. ,

Special attention given to orders for
MASONIC JEWELS, SPECIAL
PIECES, PRESENTATION KEYS,
PRESENTATION JEWELLERY,
and OFFICIAL JEWELS of all
kinds.

18-ct., 15-ct., 9-ct., and Silver Link Suites, Studs
in Collars of every description.

A. SYDENHAM, Wholesale & Manufacturing Jeweller, 26, Frederick St., BIRMINGHAM-

A VI

THE WATCHMAKER, JEWELLER AND SILVERSMITH.

[July 1, 1891.

SILVER MEDAL

PARIS, 1889.

USHER & COLE,

-a Qt?ropo/T)eter * apd * U/atefy * fT\a\er$ * to * tl$ * /}d/r\iralty. *»

105, ST. cJOH^I STREET ROAD, LONDON.

.. Manufacturers of London-made

Calendars, Repeaters, Chronographs, and Marine Chronometers.

REPAIRS OP ALL KINDS.

Watches with Kew Observatory " A " Certificates. Illustrated Catalogues and Price Lists.

or*

Late JOHN TAYLOR. Established 1878.

OPERA GLASSES, FIELD & MARINE GLASSES, TELESCOPES, BARO-
METERS. (Special Fancy Patterns at Low Figures). Thermometebs, Photo-
graph Cameras, Lenses and Stands. Spectacle Cases, Eyeglass Cases,
Eyeglass Cords, Lenses of every description, plain and tinted. Pebble
Spectacles. Oculists' Prescriptions carefully worked, Repairs (same
day as received).

Spectacles and Folders in every Pattern known to the trade, from cheapes
to the very best, in Gold, Silver, Steel, Solid Nickel, and Tortoiseshell. Specialitie
In Non-Rusting Folders and Spectacles for Export Trade. All the Latest Patterns
in Cork Nose and Easy-Wearing Folders. Special Terms to Large Buyer.

PHOTOGRAPHIC CAMERAS (Our own Maie). Specialite.— High Class Workmanship and Finish, at Moderate Prices.
Lenses, Stands, and all Accessories. Complete Outfits supplied. Photographs of our Specialities furnished to Buyers on application.

]\£amifactory at i54:, Tenby Street ISTorth, Birmingham.

Antique ^ilbmrtjys,

(Ssgbijmp, and
PARCEL-GILDING

IN ALL DEAD

PLATER AND

INTRODUCER OF THE

?Il

AND BRIGHT

COLOURS.

WHICH PRODUCES ON GOLD WORK THE NEAREST
* APPROACH TO COLOURED GOLD. *

spoons, forks, cruets,

and ALL PLATED GOODS
RE-POLISHEB AND
DONE UP AS
NEW at lowest
possible
cost.

i*A

AND ON ALL KINDS OF METAL & SILVER WORK A SPLENDID SATIN FINISH.
^? / '< SPECIAL ATTENTION TO COUNTRY ORDERS."

=3K=

9 & 10, NORTHAMPTON STREET, BIRMINGHAM.

SILVASTOR

(PATENT).

For preventing Tarnish on

Silver and Electro-plated Goods.

Sold in Bottles at 2s. 6d. each.
A Liberal Discount to WHOLESALE DEALERS.

AGENTS WANTED,

Proprietor : Mr. T. HOLDEN, 17, Hargreaves St., Burnley.

JULES PERRET-MHJHELE

EPLATURES, near CHAUX-DE-FOJMDS,

Pocket Watches for Ladies and Gentlemen, both
Lever and Cylinder.

The quantity manufactured by this house enables goods
to be sold on most advantageous terms. Wholesale.

ONLY SUBSTANTIAL FIRMS DEALT "WITH.
Agents required for the Continent, and for Export to the Colonies.

July 1, 1891.]

THE WATCHMAKER, JEWELLER AND SILVERSMITH.

xvii

P. & A. GUY

77, Farringdon Road,

J W LOHDON. W

Manufacturers of

KEYLESS & KEY

??K£\°f

§>;

GENERAL AGENTS TO THE AMERICAN

Waltham Watch Company,

W/cLTH/cM BUILDIJMGS,

HOLBORN CIRCUS, LONDON, E.C,

The "EAGLE" Cycles

2" LIBERAL

-* DISCOUNT

"= FOR CASH.

—
a

* * * * 3

i-+

LIBERAL &

DISCOUNT 2.

FOR CASH. f

HOTCHKISS, MAYO & MEEK,

Coventry.

r—

To Wholesale Manufacturers. Royalties Granted on Easy Terms- Patent No. 1703.

WALKER'S Newly-Invented 8-DAY LEVER WATCH

IT REQUIRES ONLY TO BE WOUND UP ONCE A WEEK

(312 TURNS a year, inrtead of 1,400 TURNS, as required by the ordinary one-day watch.')

Testimonials and Terms sent on application to

S. ajpIiKSF?, 21, SOOTH ROAD, WATERLOO, LIVERPOOL.

f. BRUETON,

(ESTD. 1851

Jeuiel Case

CQanufaetttfep

Sole maker of new case, Ed. No. 165497.
for 6 ^ 12 rings, and other articles.

When open
stands In

SUVLTill

positions.

Noveltiesin cases for E.P.& Silver goods. "*%^
2, NORTHAMPTON STREET, BIRMINGHAM.

xvm

THE WATCHMAKER, JEWELLER AND SILVERSMITH.

[July 1, 1891.

NEWSOME & CO.,

THE BUTTS, COVENTRY.

WHOLESALE WATCH MANUFACTURERS.

All kinds of English Lever Watches in Stock. Sole
Makers of Patent Safety Wheel for Going Barrels. Keyless
Work a Spccialite, with or without the

KEW CERTIFICATE IN "A," " B," OR "C" CLASS.

Highest No. of Marks for Positional Adjustment at Kew. Watch No. 102816, 36'4 out oj possible 40. ILLUSTRATED CATALOGUE ON APPLICATION.

ONLY ADDRESS.

D* &

NO REPRESENTATIVES.

SiIyQr$miIn$ • ai • Dealer^ » in • /Mi<ruQ$,

2 & 3, Livery Street, BIRMINGHAM.

Having commissions from several American Houses, we are prepared to buy, at highest

Cash Prices :

Antique Silver Plate of every description.

Old War Medals, dated 1848, or earlier.

Old Stone-set Shoe Buckles.

Job Lots of Secondhand Watches and Jewellery.

Old Gold and Silver at Refiners' Prices.

Antique Jewellery of all kinds.

Old Bronzes and Carved Ivories.

Enamel Patch Boxes, Salt Cellars, Candlesticks, etc.

Old Watch Movements and Gilt Watch Plates.

Antique Gold and Silver Brooches and Rings.

Old Gold and Silver Coins.

Antique Diamond and Pearl Jewellery.

Old Oil Paintings and Prints of a Sporting Character.
Foreign Gold, Silver, and Paper Money Exchanged.
Old Plated on Copper Wine Coolers, Venison Dishes.

„ „ Candelabra, Epergnes, etc.

,, „ Tea Pots, Coffee Pots, etc.

„ „ Entree Dishes, Tureens, etc.

Old Miniatures on Ivory or Enamel.
Old China of every description.
Old Collections of Foreign Postage Stamps.
Old Armour and Weapons.
Antique Furniture.

And Curios of every kind.

Cash or Cheque remitted by return oj post, and if -bnces not satisfactory goods returned.

§aitJm"8 :
BIRMINGHAM & METROPOLITAN BANKING COMPANY, Limited, Bennett's Hill, BIRMINGHAM.

A. SCOTT

MANUFACTURING JEWELLER

PRICE LIST

SCOTT'S NO. 1
ALBERTS,

WHITE

New designs

in Nickel Clock

Stands.

THROUGHOUT,

6/6 per doz.

62, Summer Hill Road,

AND GENERAL FACTOR.

ON APPLICATION

NICKEL
KEYLESS

WATCHES

from 5/3 each

New designs
Nickel Clock
Stands.

BITIMIN&HAM.

July 1, 1891.]

THE WATCHMAKEE, JEWELLER AND SILVERSMITH.

AHRONSBERG BROS.

FOR

REPAIRS
A.FPRO.

SEND FOR PRICE LIST.

37, ALBION STREET, BIRMINGHAM.
A, GARSTIN & CO.,

REGISTERED 94749.

l^aibr #00&s jHamtf actors,

Sole Manufacturers of the Watch Wristlet.

1, 2, 3, & 4, QUEEN'S SQUARE, LONDON, E.C.

Telegraphic Address—" GARSTIN, LONDON."

Ascents wanted. Lists Free.

FLAVELL & CO

COVENTRY.

W. WINKLES,

SjVattljmakcr & Repairer to % Strata,
179, WARSTONE LANE, BIF

Every description of English and Foreign Watches skilfully
and promptly repaired

SPECIALITIES— Repairs receive immediate

and personal attention.

Price List on Application.

-#• TRY •*-

FRED. J. CARVER,

t, |3r£sr.0tt Ht., ItockLeTj, firming tram,

For Good, Prompt Work at Moderate Charges,

Repairer of every description of Watches, Clocks, and

Jewellery. All tranches thoroughly attended to.

Write for new list of Prices :

F.J. Carver, 1, Prescott St., Hockley, Birmingham.

Agents for Birmingham for the Watchmaker, Jeweller
' and Silversmith.

Okrtrral Ht3it0tur, fBrjokMnoittg,
artfr J=bfo5a|jmr|j.

WHOLESALE PAPER DEALER.

DEALER IN FANCY GOODS.

57, Uyse Street, Birmingham.

Established 1858.

J, DILGER,

35, PERCIVAL STREET, CLERKENWELL,

LONDON.

Watch and Clock Material Dealer, Tools, Ac.

PRICE LIST OX APPLICATION.

COUNTRY JOBBERS.

GOOD WORK v. BOTCHING.

Send for Sample of ROSE'S Easy Running

Hard Solder — as made by riim in two

good London Workshops.

NOTICE.— Printed Instructions are enclosed—
How to Prepare the Work,
„ „ Proceed with the Work,
„ ., Finish the Work,
and urn a Job out equal lo London or Birmingham, ■
Sample and Particulars forwarded to any address in United
Kingdom Free on receipt of P.O.O. for 1/-.
9, 12, 15, 18, and 22-ct. Gold Solders to order.

OLD GOLD AND SILVER BOUGHT.
WORTH A TRIAL.

CHARLES E. ROSE, JEWELLER,

6, BRIDGE STREET, BOLTON.

ESTABLISHED 1782.

WATCH KEY MANUFACTURERS-

SOLE MAKERS OP THE

Combination Swivel and Watch Key, Patent, and
"Universal" Keys to wind any watch.

7, BATH STREET, BIRMINGHAM.

Sheffield & Biming-ham Plating Works.

T. SMITH & CO.,

(Established 1850.1 Price List on application.

10, Pereival St., Goswell Road, London.

French zinc and other clock eases restored or gilt,

colours equal to Paris. Timepiece dialn dead gilt or

matted, and dead silvered, and French silvered. Watch

dials gilt, bleached and painted, 6d. each, or 5s. 6d. per

dozen. Electro-plating and Gilding of every description

Post-Offlce Orders to be Made Payable, Chief •

Office, Goswell Road.

Cheques to be crossed " London and County Bank."

i i

IOMEGA,"

Best Material for Cleaning- Watches.
Restores Gilding and does not scratch.

2d. PER BLOCK.

OF ALL MATERIAL DEALERS.

WHOLESALE:

G. CARTER, 193, Mare Street, Hackney, N.E.

ALBERT S .

^.anniaclncev oi (Blreru gssrriptixm of

JEWELLERY CASES

AND

GLASS SHOW CASES,
81, CAROLINE ST., BIRMINGHAM.

WILLIAM YALE & SONS,

Patentees and Sole Manufacturers of the

SUITABLE POP PICKLES, PISH,
BEEAD, PASTRY, &c, ftc,

Unett Works, 83, Unett Street, Birmingham.
57a, SMorthasnptoo Street,

EiaiKIKTGHAH.

J. FAWSON,

Manufacturing fcujellcr, (fanuxnl 3Jtomtif.r,

ELECTRO GILDER AND PLATER,

Special Jewellery Repairs returned same day
as received.

C. J. DUNLOP,

62, Great Hampton St., BIRMINGHAM

Sffiattjjmahcr aub- fUpaiter,

DEALER IN

All kinds of Watch, Clock, & Jewellery Tools, Materials &c

Trade Repairs quickly attended to at moderate

charges.

Jewel Holes Fitted, Staffs, Pinions, Watch Dials, and

English Clock Dials restored.

N.B.— PLEASE NOTE CHANGE OF ADDRESS-

B, H. JOSEPH & CO,,

MANUFACTURING JEWELLERS
AND DIAMOND MOUNTERS,

20, FREDERICK STREET,

BIRMINGHAM,

And 28, ELY PLACE, LONBOIV, E.C.

"The "GRIPPER" THIMBLE.

REGISTERED.

Special Features.

The only Thimble made which grips
the needle and prevents it slipping

off into the finger.
Will Wear longer than two or three
of any other pattern.

Shape of holes causes all pressure on strongest part.
Madu of Solid Silver, and obtainable of any Wholesale House

W, Hi' BI

15,GT. HAMPTON STREET,

BIRMINGHAM.

Hairljmabr & Jitatmal Healer

IN EVERY DETAIL FOR THE TRADE.

PRICE LIST POST FREE.

'"JOSEPH-' MOOHE,
iBu GEttgrafor att& Jlfc&aUisi,

MANUFACTURER OF

Crosses, gabges, &c„ for $tMttir, f iflr, ^toimming,

P1TSF0RD ST., YYS3 ST., BIRMINGHAM.

Chronometer, l&atdj anil
Cbr.lt Spring
£!akcr.

Dealer

in English

and Foreign Files,

Tools and Materials for Watch

and Clock Makers, Jewellers, &0.

Wholesale and Retail.

Country Jobs by Return of Post.

" THE PERFECTION OF NEATNESS."

London-made Jewellery Boxes at Birmingham Price
All Nested in Six— oblong or Square.

From 3/- per Gross, nested. 12 qualities.

A Sample Nest, showing all qualities,
Post Free on receipt of Trade Card and Six Penny Stamvs

F fi KFTTI F Jewellers' Box

! . u, l\l_ I I UL, Manufacturer,

P%estfree. 9, NEW OXFORD STREET,

And 11, Etingsgntc Street, London, V5'.<T.

ESTABLISHED 1840.

¥ARD,

MANUFACTURER OF

GILT WATCH KEYS AND

PATENT KEY TO WIND ANY WATCH,

MILTON STREET,

Near Summer Lane, BIRMINGHAM.

THE WATCHMAKER, JEWELLER AND SILVERSMITH.

[July 1, 1891.

PRINTINC, PRINTINC, PRINTING,

Cheaper, better, and more expeditiously than any other house in the Trade. Estimates for

Illustrated Lists on application.

«*MTHOGpPiy, . EDG^YinG, * STJITIONEIO^

High-class work only. Moderate Prices. Correspondence solicited.

HARRISON^ ^COMPANY,

{ptinitt* to t$t TUafcflmafietre' <xn* °£mttUx& £rabe,

4, BACHELOR'S WALK, DUBLIN, IRELAND.

Now Ready, with Frontispiece, Demy 8vo, 140 pages. Price 2s. (post free.)

I 1®J "=':"

■■-.■:. •

Being an Account and Comparison of the Exhibits in the Horological Section of the French International Exhibition, by

J. TRIPPLIN, F.R.A.S., Watch Manufacturer,

Vice-President, British Horological Institute; Juror, International Exhibition, 1889; Chevalier of the Legion of Honour, etc. etc.

3, HOLBORN VIADUCT, E.C.

SUMMARY OF CONTENTS.

Introduction — Horological Lilerature — Schools of Horology — Chronometer Makers — Watch Manufacturers — Turret Clock Manufacturers-
Clock Manufacturers — Tools for "Watch and Clock Makers — Inventors — Shopkeepers — Watch-case Makers — Timers — Engravers — Gilders

Platform Escapement Makers — Escapement Material Makers — Watch Jewel Makers — Balance-Spring Makers — Mainspring Makers — Pinion

Makers — Wheel and Wheel-Cutter Makers — Hand Makers — Dial Makers — Screw Makers — File Manufacturers — Morocco Watch Case
Makers — Watch Importers — Musical Boxes — Optional Hall-Marking at Geneva — Conclusion.

Honourable

Mention
International

Exhibition,
London, 1862.

Established 1815.']

ENGLISH WATCHES.

[Established 1815.

CIRQUES J- Hikk,

RUSSELL HOUSE, COVENTRY; and LONDON.

TRADEv=i'VlARK

REGISTERED TRADE MARKS.

"TALBOTT & TALBOTT." "JOHN FORREST."

GOLiy^-^l5lEDAL

TRADE MARK

Prize Medal,

New Zealand

Exhibition,

1882.

Prize Medal,

Coventry,1867.

WATCH MANUFACTORY,

Geneva,

SWITZERLAND.

London Agency, 60, Chandos Street, Strand.

J. G. OLIVER,

nMv Watch <&azz Jlalur.

English Movements Re-cased as Crystals,
2-oz. Cases, Engine-turned, &c, 17/6.

6, KING SQUARE, LONDON, E.C.

THWAITES BROTHERS,

Church, House, Transparent, Telegraph, Steam-gauge,
and General

§inl §nit\t$rn d fgiri/op?,

25, ST. JOHN STREET ROAD,

CLERKENWELL, LONDON, E.C

Gold Medal, International Exhibition ; also Society of

Arts Prizes for Clock Dials.
Gold and Silver Dials Painted and Named.

CHEAP AND C00D, EFFECTIVE AND ILLUSTRATIVE

TYPE PRINTING,

1000 HANDBILLS, 71 by 6. 3 9; 5.000, 8/-; io.ooo. 12-/;

Billheads. Nntelie.nl-,. Statements, Memos, 8} by 5}, 500, 3'6; 1,000,

5 6; Circulars, 8} by 5J, 500, 4/6; 1.000, 6/6; White or Tinted
Paper ; Business Cards, 3J by 2J. 500, 4/- ; 1,000, 6 6: 4i by 3, 500,

6 6 ; 1,000. 9:6. Cash with all Orders. Proof submitted. Blocks
Furnished Free. Sent Carriage Paid. Hundreds of unsolicited Testi-
monials from London, the Provinces, and Abroad. CRICK & CO.,
High Cross Works, Tottenham, London. Established 1880.

SPECIMEN TESTIMONIAL.
" High Street, Wendover, Bucks. January 13th, 1891.
" DEAR Sirs,— The billheads duly received. Pass my expecta-
tions both as regards style and quality, while the price is indeed very
moderate,

"J. T. BROWN, Watchmaker. "

Catalogue of Blocks, crown 4to., 44 pp., price 4d., post free,

July 1, 1891. J

flrJitoTEtlrfir

THE WATCHMAKER, JEWELLER AND SILVERSMITH.

xxi.

MITCHELL & COOPE

Heraldic, Monogram, Inscription, and General Engravers

TO THE TRADE ONLY,

158, Great Sutton St., Clerkenwell, London.

Coats of Arms, Ciphers, Crests Initials, etc., Engraved on Plate, Watches,
Prize Cups, Medals, etc.
The only house in the Trade with a staff of experienced workmen devoted exclusively
to Engraving In all its branches.

Jttnno-

grttms
^pimcu

anti
®arufu.

ESTABLISHED 10 YEARS

No charge made for SJcetches to regular Customers:
Send for our Sheet of Designs, which will be forwarded Free on receipt of Business Card.

AT 1, NORTHAMPTON STREET.

ELECTRO- PLATE MANUFACTURERS,

34*36, ^arlott^ % $lftffield.

MAKERS OF

1 Electro-plated on Britannia Metal Tea and Coffee Services, One Guinea.

1 Oak Liquor Frame with three Cut-glass Bottles, One Guinea.

1 Electro-plated on Nickel Silver Dinner Cruet, with six Cut-glass Bottles, One Guinea.

6 Britannia Metal Teapots, assorted, One Guinea.

1 Case six pairs Electro-plated Fish-eaters or Desserts, One Guinea.

1 Prize Cup, quart size with Figure suitable to any purpose, One Guinea. (Say for what purpose when ordering Cup.)

Telegraphic Address—" Koritshon, London,"

Efc &OAI'T8CBOK-]&iK

23, HATTON GAKDEN, LONDON, E.C.,
MANUFACTURER OF PRECIOUS SCALES

ESPECI^ LLY

ffillill iiilli, feiBi, iillB, fiiffi, llilfi.

Diamond Pocket Books, Sieves, Pearl and Diamond Measures;

also all sorts of

DIAMOND PAPERS AND BOXES AND EVERY REQUISITE FOR
ee=ee DIAMOND MERCHANTS. -^=

Diamond Scales Repaired and Re-adjusted at the shortest notice.

EDWARD DAY,

Dealer in Gold and Silver, pure or in any Standard in
Sheet or Wire.

Purchaser of Gold and Silver in Bars, Lemel,
Jewellers' Sweep, Dentists' and Photographers' Waste,

Gilt and Plated Metal and Old Silver Plate.

ittamifactuar of

Hollow Gold, Silver and Metal Beads, Beaded and Fancy Wires,

Galeree Border, Settings, Brooch Ornaments, Chains, Fancy Rolled

Silver and other Metals for Jewellers and Silversmiths,

28, WAESTONE LANE, BIMINGHAM.

And 50, EUE CHAPON, PARIS.

TIE GEMMATED

i^ftcan jSilYei1 ^Iber1^

C- T" & S BEGISTERED ATRADE "ARK. C. T. & S

Ladies and Gents' Chains in all patterns (guaranteed white metal
throughout) can be obtained of all Wholesale Houses and Merchants.

These Chains are acknowledged by the trade to be in finish,
appearance, and wear, the best substitute for Real Silver in the market
Every Swivel hears the Initials of the Manufacturers,
" C. T. & S.," none others being genuine.

>fxii

THE WATCHMAKER, JEWELLER AND SILVERSMITH.

[July 1, 1891.

WHITBY JET JEWELLERY

All Articles bearing this TRADE

MARK and stamped Al quality,

are of the finest English Jet

from the Whitby mines.

Without it, purchasers are liable
to be defrauded by paying an
exorbitant price for a compara-
tively worthless article made
from foreign soft Jet.

THE FIRST AND ORIGINAL MARK FOR GENUINE WHITBY JET.

Owing to the ruinous effect the introduction of Foreign Jet has had upon the Whitby Jet Trade, large Meetings of
influential Members of the Trade, presided over by E. W. Beckett, Esq., M.P., were held at Whitby in 1890, to discuss and
devise some method whereby all goods sold as Jet should have their proper classification as to quality, and so that purchasers
should have some substantial guarantee (by the marking of goods) as to the quality of Jet they bought, the result of the
Meeting being that several of the leading Manufacturers decided to adopt a system of classification of the different qualities of
Jet, and give a substantial guarantee, by each article bearing Manufacturer's Eegistered Trade Mark.

The classification decided upon is as follows : —

No. AL— GENUINE WHITBY HARD JET.
No. 1.— FOREIGN HARD JET.
No. 2.— SOFT JET.
Only the No. Al and No. 1 will show the Trade Mark.

The first firm that publicly undertook to give such guarantee for Genuine Whitby Jet was that of

I. LANGDALE,

i- Standard * Jet * Works, * Whitby, fr

BY WHOM

APPLICATIONS FOR AGENCIES

are invited for ENGLAND, SCOTLAND, IRELAND and WALES. It is only intended to appoint one, or

not more than two, Agents in each town.

ALSO FOR PRINCIPAL BRITISH COLONIES.

dommenfe upon tf\e i)U^terQ oj? cfaA&ij?^

cmc| ©Jrae

COURT JOURNAL, December 20th, 1890, says :

" It is satisfactory to find that Mr. Langdale, of the ' Standard Jet
Works,' Whitby, gives a guarantee for English Jet in the form of a
Registered Trade Mark, and all goods supplied by him are certain to be of
the quality of Jet represented by the cards and lables. It is anticipated
this guarantee will be the means of again placing Jet Ornaments in the
first position as Mourning Jewellery, and of reviving the Jet trade ; whilst
at the same time purchasers will know they are supporting an interesting
and valuable Knglish trade."

WATCHMAKER, JEWELLER AND SILVERSMITH,

February 2nd, 1891,

In a lengthy article describing the three qualities of Jet, says: — "There
are few gems to which our island can lay claim ; but taking a gem to be a
thing of beauty, comparative rarity and durability, we can boast of a true
jrem in the finest variety of Whitby Jet. We have before us now several
hundred specimens of Jet and its allies, collected by our own experts, and
when we compare them with that we have lalely received from Whitby,
they must all for ever take a back seat, and with so intelligible and sound
a basis to work upon as Mr. Langdale's classification, no one need be
ashamed or afraid to sell Al Whitby Jet."

MYRA'S JOURNAL, 1891, says :

" Mr. Langdale, ' Standard Jet Works,' is the great mover in this
scheme, and has registered a Trade Mark which, with a guarantee that
the Jet of which the ornaments are made is procured from the Whitby
Mines, will be found printed on the cards on which the articles are
mounted. Purchasers of Jet ornaments must see to it that this Trade
Mark, together with the words ' No. Al quality,' are printed on the card,
as only Jet of the best quality is marked in this way,"

>OGie

ing ^et coere macje 6ij Cfte f?offoaoing

le ^ournaP^ : —

WELDON'S JOURNAL, January 1st, 1890:
" We are sure those desirous of purchasing black Jewellery will
appreciate the endeavour of Mr. Langdale, of not only assisting the
Whitby industry, but enabling the public to define the article. Mr.
Langdale, who is ever to the front with novelties in Mourning Jewellery,
has his goods well shown by all the leading houses, and as a guarantee of
purchasing real Whitby Jet, ladies should see all articles bear his Trade
Mark."

LADIES' GAZETTE OF FASHION, December, 1890, says:
" Owing to the system of classification adopted by Mr. Langdale, a
number of the best Jewellers who had given up keeping Jet Jewellery
have expressed their intention of commencing to keep it again, knowing
they now have a substantial guarantee of the quality of Jet they are
buying."

THE WHITBY GAZETTE, September 19tb, 1890, says:

" If the course which has been so enterprisingly adopted by Mr.
Langdale is also separately adopted by other manufacturers, there is every
prospect of the public confidence in the durability of Jet Ornaments being
restored, the trade itself considerably revived, and Whitby again placed in
the first rank and universally acknowledged as the head centre of the
black Jewellery trade."

CHRISTIAN LEADER, November 27tb, 1890 :
" Mr. I. Langdale, whose name is honourably identified with the'
staple industry of Whitby, has tnken the lead in a movement that seems
likely to restore the Jet trade of that ancient Yorkshire town to its former
condition of prosperity. When the fact is known ihat the value of the raw
material in common French Jet is not one-fourth of the best English Jet,
the value of this guarantee will be at once apparent,"

July 1, 1891.J

THE WATCHMAKEE, JEWELLEE AND SILVEESMITH.

xxm

BUYERS* GUIDE.

ARTISTIC SILVER SUNDRIES.

Pringle Robert & Co. actual Makers (not merely

Factors') at their Steam Works, 40 and 42, Clerkenwell

Road. Children's Cans.SaltCellsandSpoons, Serviette

Rings, Apostle and Coffee Spoons, Cups, Goblets,

Mustard Pots and Spoons : Muffineers, Cream Jugs,

Sugar Basins, Tea Spoons, Medals, and Alberts, duty

free. Old Gold and Silver bought in any quantity

for melting at the highest market price. Silver

Goods sent out on approbation.

Pringle Robert & Co. actual Makers (not merely

Factors) at their Steam Works, 40 and 42, Clerkenwell

Road. Children's Cans, Salt Cells and Spoons, Serviette

Rings, Apostle and Coffee Spoons, Cups, Goblets,

Mustard Pots and Spoons : Muffineers, Cream Jugs,

Sugar Basins, Tea Spoons, Medals, and Alberts, duty

free. Old Gold and Silver bought in any quantity

for melting at the highest market price. Silver

Goods sent out on approbation.— See Advt.

B LROME TER AND COMPASS

MANUFACTURERS.

Barker Francis & Son 12, Clerkenwell Road, London,
Wholesale Manufacturers of Pocket and Charm
Compasses, Aneriod Barometers, Sun Dials, etc.
Illustrated Trade Catalogue free on application.

BOX MAKER.

Kettle, F. G. 9. New Oxford Street, and 11, Kingsgate
Street, London, W.C. Send for Price List, post free.

CHRONOMETER MANUFACTURERS.

Oram George & Son 19, Wilmington Square, Clerken-
welL Marine and Pocket Chronometers, all kinds
of first-class Keyless Lever Watches, Chronographs,
Repeaters, and Regulators always in stock.

Isaac H. P. Chronometer and Watch Maker to the
Admiralty, 10, Spencer Street, Clerkenwell, London,
E.C. Marine and Pocket Chronometers, Adjusted
Levers, plain and Keyless. All kinds of fine watches

CLOCK MANUFACTURERS.

Smith John & Son, Midland Steam Clockworks, Derby.

WllMns John & Co. 11, St. John Street Road, Clerken-
well.

DIAMOND POLISHERS.

Ford & Wright Steam Lapidary Works, Diamond
Cutters and Polishers, Gem Cutters and Lapidaries
in all branches, 18 and ID, Clerkenwell Green and
Clerkenwell Road.

ELECTRO GILDERS AIVD PLATERS.

Horton J, & Son 80, High Street, Whitechapel, London,
one of the oldest and best Arms for Gilding and
Plating. Established 1834.

Peck & Levett Water and Electro Gilders aad Platers,
16, St. John's Square, Clerkenwell, Lacquerers,
Oxydizers and Bronzers. Cheapest house in the
Trade. Price Lists on application.

ENORAVERS.

Mitchell & Cooper Heraldic, Monogram, Inscription,
and Generaf Engravers to the Trade, 58, Great
Su.ton Street, Clerkenwell, London. Articles
engraved while customers wait.

GOLD AND SILVER DIAL
MANUFACTURERS.

OOLD & SILVER REFINERS.

Harrold Chas. & Co. 2 and 3, St. Paul's Square, Bir-
mingham.— See Advt.

The Sheffield Smelting Company Limited Sheffield,

Sell Gold and Silver (refined and alloyed). Buy all

materials containing Gold and Silver.
Westwood C. & Sons 14, Hall Street, Birmingham.—

See Advt.
Day Edward 28, Warstone Lane, Birmingham.— See

Advt.

GOLDSMITHS, MANUFACTURING.

s^, T. & J. Vittoria Street, Birmingham, and
15, Thavies Inn, London, Goldmiths, Jewellers,
Diamond Mounters, Art Silversmiths. By Special
Appointment to Her Majesty^ the Queen. Royal
and other Orders and Insignia, Mayoral Chains,
Maees, Corporate Seals, Caskets, Keys, Swords.
Masonic Jewellers.

Ginder Walter J. 47, Frederick Street, Birmingham.—
See Advt.

Lucas Brothers 22, Hylton Street, Birmingham.— See
Advt.

Saunders & Shepherd Bartlett's Passage Buildings,
Holborn Circus, London. — See Advt.

Sydenham, A. 26, Frederick Street, Birmingham.— See
Advt.

GOLD WATCH CASE MAKERS.
W- Neal 27, Craven Street, Coventry.

JET ORNAMENT MANUFACTURER.

Jones E. A. Wholesale Manufacturer of Whitby Jet
Ornaments. A large assortment of the Newest
Patterns always in stock. Export Orders promptly
executed. Persons not having an account open will
avoid delay by forwarding a reference with their
order. Customers' Matchings and Repairs with
despatch. 93, Hatton Garden, London, E.C.

JEWELLERS, MANUFACTURING.

Backes & Strauss Limited 64, Holborn Viaduct,
London. — See Advt.

Goode 3. & Sons Regent Place, Birmingham.— See
Advt.

Greenberg I. S. & Co. 22, Tyse Street, Birmingham.—
See Advt.

Jones T. Walter 48-50, Hylton Street, Birmingham.—
See Advt.

Reading N. C. & Co. Warstone Lane, Birmingham. —
See Advt.

Scott A. 62, Summer Hill Road, Birmingham.— Sec
Advt.

JEWELLERS, WHOLESALE.

Cooper H. J. & Co. Oxford Street, London.— See Advt.
Walter W. H. Newgate Street, London.— See Advt.

JEWELLERS' ROUGE MANU-
FACTURERS.

Brown James & Co. Exeter, Manufacturers of the
linest qualities, chemically pure. Satisfaction guaran-
teed. Packedtosuit all buyers. Samples and quota-
tions free. Agents wanted calling upon buyers.

MASONIC JEWELLER.

Kenning G. Little Britain and AldersKate Street
London. — See Advt.

OPTICIANS, WHOLESALE.

Botwright & Grey 13, Spencer Street, Clerkenwell
London.— See Advt.

Raphael J. & Co. 13, Oxford Street, London See Advt

RING (GOLD) MANUFACTURER.

Hope S. 126, Tyse Street, Birmingham.— See Advt.

SAFE MANUFACTURERS.

Chubb & Sons Limited Queen Victoria Street, Lon-
don.

Tann J. Newgate Street, London.

SILVERSMITHS, MANUFACTURING.

Round J. & Son Limited, Tudor Works, Sheffield
and Holborn Circus, London. — See Advt.

Willis Mark & Son Rockingham Street, Sheffield.—
See Advt.

WATCH JOBRER.

Ockenden S. Chronometer and Watch Jobber to the
Trade, 155, Goswell Road, London, E.C. Staffs,
Pinions, Cylinders, Conversions, etc. Price List on
application. Established 1887

WATCH MANUFACTURERS.

Baume & Co. 21, Hatton Garden, London, Coventry,
and Switzerland. — See Advt.

Clemence Freres 11, Southampton Row, London, and
Switzerland. — See Advt.

Guye P. & A. Farringdon Road, London. — See Advt.

Hargreaves J. & Co. Wholesale Watch Manufacturers,
17, Norton Street, London Road , Liverpool . Makers
to Her Majesty the Queen, and H.R.H. the Prince
of Wales.

Newsome & Co. The Butts, Coventry. — See Advt.

Rotherham & Sons Coventry and London.— See Advt.

Stauffer Son & Co. 13, Charterhouse Street, London
and Switzerland. — See Advt.

Usher & Cole 105, St. John Street Road, London.
Makers to the Admiralty. — See Advt.

Vine T. W- (late Thompson and Vine) 85, Aldersgate
Street, E.C. English Keyless Watch (London-
made) Manufacturer, Swiss Watch Importer, and
Wholesale Jeweller.

Waltham Watch Company Holborn Circus, London.—

See Advt.

WATCH MATERIALS.

Grimshaw & Baxter Goswell Road, London.— See
Advt.

Haswell R. & Sons Spencer Street, Clerkenwell
London. — See Advt.

Swinden & Sons Temple Street, Birmingham.— See
Adot.

WATCH REPAIRERS.

Thiele E. 31, Vyse Street, Birmingham, Watch Re-
pairer to the Trade. New parts replaced quickly.
Special attention to jewellery repairs. Price List
on application.

Le Freirnann and Co., Watchmakers and Repairers
to the Trade, 49, Albion Street, Birmingham.
Watches of any make perfectly demagnetised by
a specially made alternating current machine; no
parts softened or altered ; returned same day aa
received. Fee 2s,

XNjV

THE WATCHMAKER, JEWELLER AND SILVERSMITH.

[July 1. 1891.

MR. FREDK. B. BOX,

SPECIAL FEATURE. — No pharge whatever

unless a Sale is effected, and no charge

to Purchasers. .

Valuations made on Moderate Terms.

HIGHEST REFERENCES.

(Dffirrs:

6, THAVIES INN, HOLBORN CIRCUS, E.C.

INDEX TO ADVEBTISERS.

Me. Box is instructed to sell the following
Businesses :

1. Electro-plating. Electro and Water

Gilding. Wholesale Electro-plate, Clock, and
Material business in Clerkenwell. Rent for
commodious premises £130 on lease. Nett
profits £1,500 a year. £4,000 to £5,000 re-
quired. Purchase arranged with £3,000.

^Twatchmaker's and Jeweller's in

the West End. Established many years ;
average returns £3.000, principally sales at
excellent profits. About £4,000 required.
Worth prompt attention. '

3. Watchmakers and Jewellers, in

good district, S.E. Rent £60 on lease. Returns
£l,li00 : large jobbing connection through-
out England. Proof nett profits £6,000 year.
About £1,200 required. Ill health sole cause
of sale.

4. Watchmaker's and Jeweller's in

5. Watchmaker's and Jeweller's in

6. Watchmaker's and Jeweller's in

thriving town in Lincolnshire. Rent only
£36 on lease, large house over. Returns
£1,000 to £1,100 at good profits. Stock and
fixtures about £1,000, or will reduce to £500.

7. Watchmaker's and Jeweller s in

quiet seaside town on South Coast. Premises
well situate in the High Street. Rent on
lease, 14 years unexpired, only £22 ; good
house accommodation. Returns £8 a week.
Stock and fixtures at valuation about £350.

8. Watchmaker's and Jeweller's in

good W.C. district. Rent on lease £60 ;
upper portion let off more than pays rent.
Good connect on trade. Returns about
£1,000. Purchase money £1,000, arranged
with C500.

Watchmaker's and Jeweller's in

busy Seaside Town, one hour from ixmdon,
very commanding premises in center the High
Street. Large bouse over. Rent on lease
£80. Returns £800 a year, about £500
requi-ed.

10. Watchmaker's and Jeweller's in

Brecknockshiie. Rent and taxes only £20 ;
good house; nftt profits last year £180.
£250 required for tveiytbing.

Further particulars of any of the above and many
others, graiii on application. t

Aftcan Silver Alberts. .

Ahroiisberg, Bros., Birmingham ..

Arm strong, T. & l?rothers. Manchester ..

Ateliers Hoster de St. Nicolas, Ltd., London

Backes & Strauss, London
Baker, C, & Son, Birmingham
Baylis, Henry, Birmingham
Baume & Co., London
Berend, O., & Co., London . .

Birch, John S.. New York

Bloxham, W., Birmingham

Borgzinner Brothers, London

Botwright & Grey, London

Box, Fredk. B., London

British & Foreign Repairing Co., London

Brown, W. H., Birmingham

Brueton, F., Birmingham ..

Caldicott, J. W., Birmingham

Carter, G., London

Carver, F. J., Birmingham

Carley, Geo , & Co., London
Chapman, Son, and Co., London . .
Chopard, Ch., Switzerland
Clemence Freres, London
Cooper, H. J., & Co., London
Cotton, Geo., London
Crick & Co., Tottenham
Culf, A.. & Co., Sheffield

Davis, D. & M. Birmingham
Day, Edward, Birmingham
Deakin & Francis, Birmingham
Dilger, J., London
Dunlop, C. J., Birmingham. .

Fattorini & Sons, Bradford
Fawson, J., Birmingham
Fenwick, A., Birmingham ..
Flavell & Co , Coventry
Fletcher, R , & Son, Stoneclough . .
Ford and Wright, London

Garstin, A., & Co., London
Ginder Bros., Birmingham
Goode, John, & Sons, Birmingham
Greenberg, I. S., & Co., Birmingham
Grimshaw & Baxter, London
Gripper Thimble
Guye, P. & A., London .. ..

Harris, Phillip, & Co., Birmingham
Harrison and Co., Dublin
Harrold, C, & Co , Birmingham ..
Harvey, G. W., & Co., Birmingham
Hasweil, R., & Sons, London
Hewitt, C. T. & Son, Coventry . .
Hill, C.J. , Coventry..
Hirst, A. & S., Oldham

Holden, T., Burnley

Hope, Birmingham

Hotchkiss, Mayo & Meek, Coventry

Jones, T. Walter, Birmingham
Joseph, B. H., & Co,, Birmingham

Kettle, F. G., London
King & Sons, London
Koritschoner, D., London
Kullberg, V., London

Lamb, H. T., London
Langdale, I., Whitby

Mander, H., & Co., Coventry
Millward, W., Birmingham. .
Mitchell & Cooper, London . .

Moore. Joseph, Birmingham
Mott, F., Birmingham

Newsome & Co., Coventry

Oliver, J. G., London

Parkes, S., & Sons ..
Payne, G. S., Oxford
Perret-Michelin, J., Swilzerland ..
Pringle, Robert, & Co., London . .
Plucknett, C. J., & Co., London ..

Raphael, J., & Co., London. .
Reading, N. C, & Co., Birmingham
Robbins & Appleton, London
Rose, C E .Bolton

Pngr
xxi
xix

XXV
XXV

iii
xiii

XXV

xxiv

xiii

xix

xvii

xix

xxviii

xxvi

xiii

xxviii

xiv

xix

xxi

xviii

xxi

xix

vi
xix
v
xix
xxv
xxv

XIX

xvii

viii

ix
xvi

xix
viii
xxi

xxvii

xxv
xxii

ix
xix
xxi
xix
xix

xix

xiii

xvi

xiii

xvii

xix

Page

Rotherham & Sons, Coventry .. .. xxviii

Round, John, & Son, Sheffield . . . . xii

Round, B. J., Birmingham .. .. xvi

Smith, T., & Co., London . . . . . . xix

Saunders & Shepherd, London . . . . xxvii

Scott, A., Birmingham . . . . . . xviii

Siegele and Bennett, London . . . . xxvi

Spencer, J., Birmingham .. .. .. 20

Starling, J. H., Birmingham .. ., 20

Stauffer, Son, & Co., London .... v

Sturtevant, T. T., London .. .. ,. vi

Swiuden & Sons, Birmingham . . . . v

Swingewood, A., Birmingham .. .. xix

Sydenham, A., Birmingham .. .. xv

Taylor, J. & H., Birmingham . . ... ' xvi

Thwaites Bros. , London . . " . . . . xx

Tripplin, J., London .. .. .. xx

Usher & Cole, London . . . . . . xvi

Vale, Wm. & Sons, Birmingham . . . . xix

Vaughton, Birmingham . . .... vi

Vacheron & Constantin, Geneva and London xx

Walker, S., Liverpool . . . . . . xvii

Walter, W. H., London x

Weill & Co., London .. .. .. xiv

Westwood, C, & Sons, Birmingham . . xxvii

Whitton, T. M., and Sons, London . . xi

Wilkins, J., and Co., London . . . . iii

Williams, T. M., London .. .. .. xiii

Willis, Mark, and Son, Sheffield ... ii

Winkles, W., Birmingham . . . . xix

FOR SALE.

AN OLD-ESTABLISHED JEWEL -
<P- LERY BUSINESS. Satisfactory reasons
given for wishing to dispose ot it. Stock i-mall,
to be taken at valuation. — Staniland, Mai ton.

TRAVELLERS, calling on WATCH AND
CLOCKMAKERS, required to represent
German Clock Manufacturer throughout the United
Kingdom on commission. One small sample is
sufficient to take orders for the goods from illus-
trated lists. Very remunerative to good men with
established connections. When applying state
fullest particulars of the counties working, and
references, &c, to B. R., Box " W." 223, care
of The Watchmaker, Jeweller and Silversmith .
Offices, 68, Fleet Street, London, E.C.

mO WATCHMAKERS (High Class) and JEW-
J_ ELLERS. To be disposed of, an old-estab-
lished first-class business, with exceptionally good
connection, situated in the best thoroughfare in
West End of London— in full working order, and
capable of great development. Capital required for
stock and lease, about £5,000. Apply in first
instance, to K, 43, Museum Street, London, W.C.

WATCHMAKER'S, JEWELLER'S, &c, for
sale. Fixtures £10, stock about £100, can
be reduced. Hill, Bury St. Edmunds.

TO JEWELLERS AND SILVER-

J- SMITHS. Imitated precious stones of every
kind (speciality : Simili Brilliants) manufactured
cheap of best quality by Ernst Czernitzki, Stein
Schleiferi, Liebenau (Bohemia). Complete assort-
ment in Ring Stones and Similis, including 20 dozens
10s. payable against reimbursement. Box "W."
224, care of Watchmaker, Jeweller and Silver-
smith, 68, Fleet Street, London, E.C.

WATCHMAKER'S & JEWELLER'S
business required in good neighbourhood.
Full particulars and lowest price. A. Brooks,
4, Gerrard Street, Islington, London, N.

<< A LERT " CYCLES. First - class

-£*- variety and quality ; cheap for cash or on
deferred payments. Lists free. Agents wanted.
Smith & Molesworth, Albion Mills, Coventry.

T\/"ATCHES. — A Swiss manufacturer of
'* complicated watches, whose business has
been affected by the Merchandise Marks Act, is
giving up the manufacture of the English type
of watch, and offtrs to SELL his STOCK of
fine COMPLICATED WATCHES, unfinished,
pieces, types, calibers, bills, &c. Address,
A, 7,318 L., care of Messrs. Haasenst.ein and
Vogler, Lausanne,

July 1, 1891.]

THE WATCHMAKEE, JEWELLER AND S1LVEESMITH.

XXV

NEW PATTERNS.

We beg to call

attention to the above.

They are strong and

reliable,
the Pallets and Scape

Wheel are solid,

and the Bell rings very

much longer than

the ordinary alarms-

Well-finished Cases.
WHOLESALE ONLY FROM

T. ARMSTRONG

. & Brothers.

I Established 1825.
TURN OUT. ALL RIGHT.

4, ST, MARY'S STREET, MAINTOHESTEI*,.

The Largest Importers of Clock* in ths Kingdom. Price Lists and Citalor/ws sent on receipt of Business Card.

ESTABLISHED 1848.

WATCH MANUFACTURER.

A LARGE ASSORTMENT
OF ENGLISH AND GENEVA
WATCHES IN STOCK.

T©@t>?>-

English
and Foreign
Watch Repairs of
every Description by
Experienced Workmen or
the premises.

5, ST. JOHN SQUARE,
CLERKENWELL, LONDON.

Price Lists on Appu— ation.

JOHN S. BIRCH <& CO.,

79 & 81, Washington Street, Brooklyn, New York, U.S.A.

No. 2.

And Not Wear Out.

Made in thirty-seven
fpf§^-^ styles. Sold by the

':•■:/ Circulars on ap-
plication.

Merchants and the Wholesale Trade only supplied by

THE AMERICAN TRADING CO., 99, Fenchurch Street, London, E.C.,

•who have the sole Sale of our Goods in Great Britain.

MILX; 682.

Grass-Bleached Silver Tissue.

Warranted not to tarnish Silver or Plated Goods.

EACH. REAM BEARS MILL LABEL

BEWARE OF IMITATIONS.

ROBERT FLETCHER & SON, Stoneclough.

STEAM PIABgQlfD BgglAgf

;MORD & "BRIGHT,

DIAMOND CUTTERS AND POLISHERS.

GEM CUTTERS AND LAPIDARIES IN ALL BRANCHES.

Diamond Mills, 116 & 118, Clerkenwell Road, and 18 & 19, Clerkenwell Green,

LON DON.
All Diamonds and other Gems cut on the premisee-

(lEUEjijS W$>Xl\ DE

Limited

51, Cannon St, LONDON, E.G.

XXVI

THE WATCHMAKER, JEWELLER AND SILVERSMITH.

[July 1, 1891.

<J\d)-±

far §nnqnhf §\i%f$f «%

ROYAL LEMON SQUEEZER.

THE COMBINATION SPIRIT,
CIGAR, & GAME CABINET.

In rich dark Oak, with handsome

Nickel Mounts.
Net Prices from i'3 to £14 14s. Od.

HANDSOME CUT-CLASS
PERFUME BOTTLES,

With Hall-marked chased

Silver Caps.

From 6/6 to £5 10s. Od.

"TANTALUS" SPIRIT
FRAME,

In rich dark Oak, with hand-
some Nickel Mounts.
Prices from 23/6 to £10 10s. Od.

CHAPMAN, SON, & CO., manufacturers^
O rUAT3TWTJUnTTCT7 RTTTT niWr.S ATr»T7BQr"AT

2, CHARTERHOUSE BUILDINGS, ALDERSGATE, LONDON, E.G.

(Tw minutes' walk from Aldersgate Street Station).

Continental Address, 39, Bleich-Strasse, Pforzheim.

Telegraphic Address, "Jewelry, London."

iecrele

•^r»

ennett,

Diamond

Work.

(Sold.

Silver.

Mosaic.

Onyx.

Moonstone.

Enamel.

Renaissance

"WatdT

Bracelets

in Gold and

Silver.

Manufacturers and Importers of British and Foreign Jewelry,

11, CHARTERHOUSE STREET, LONDON, E.G.

SOLE LICENSEES FOR GREAT BRITAIN, IRELAND, AND COLONIES

FOR THE

New Patent " Security Pin,"

( PATENT No. 17,437. )

FOR BROOCHES AND SCARF PINSJ

P "Simplicity
Itself."

Cannot be lost in wear, as \hook fixes itself into the material.
Not a Scarf Pin or Brooch of any value should remain without this

fastening-. Neater and far stronger than the old style.
GrOIiD j£$LJM^2 JSIIji'VSESIES. OINTXTST.

Goral.

S. & B. HAVE THE FINEST STOCK OF BEST CLASS CONTINENTAL JEWELRY
IN THE KINGDOM, MOSTLY THEIR OWN PRODUCTION.

Barnet. ,
Amber.
gree
Daisies.
Oxyd. Silver
and Bold.
But Silver.
Finest Paste
Brooches,
Rings,
Buckles,
Necklets.

July 1, 1891.]

THE WATCHMAKER, JEWELLER AND SILVERSMITH.

XXVH

CHARU£S * W£STWOOD * AND * S0N3,

GOLD & SILVER REFINERS,

14, HALL STBEET, BIRMINGHAM,

iDealers in JEWELLERS' REQUISITES, and in Fine and Alloyed Gold and Silver, Sheets, Wires, Stampings, Beads,
Solders, «fcc. ; also Alloys, Refined Copper, &c. ; Coloured and Bright Gold Beads,, and .also in Silver

- BANGLE, COIL AND BELCHER BRACELETS DRAWN OR SPUN.-
Bars, &c, containing Gold and Silver, assayed the same day.

PHOTOGRAPHERS' "WASTE AIYO JEWEEIiERS' AIVD DENTISTS* SWEEP PURCHASED AT FULL VALUE.

The Patent SELF-CLOSING" Bracelet.

OPEN.

^J&Mifo

gjpwwl^

WILL FIT WRIST OF ANY SIZE. MOST COMFORTABLE IN WEAR.

IN WHATEVER POSITION PLACED ON ARM OR WRIST NEVER SLIPS.

CANNOT BE LOST, AS THERE IS NO SNAP TO COME UNFASTENED.

VARIETY OF PATTERNS IN 9 & 15-CARAT GOLD. ILLUSTRATED TRADE PRICE LISTS UPON APPLICATION.

Saunders & Shepherd, sole licencees for great Britain & Australasia.
The Patent One PieCe" StudS &Cuff Buttons

Actual Size
'Collar* Stud.

special advantages:

1. UNBREAKABLE.

2. STRUCK FROM SINGLE DISC OF

M ETAL, THEREFORE NO SOLDER
USED.

3. SLIPFED INTO BUTTON

HOLE WITH PERFECT
EASE.

MADE IN 9, 15 & 18 CARAT GOLD

and Actual Size

STERLING SILVER.

Has almost entirely superseded the old kind —

■jjhich is made of several parts soldered

together.

if from ANY CAUSE a stud

SHOULD GET DAMAGED, A NEW

ONE WILL BE GIVEN IN

EXCHANGE.

Section.

s*b\» i 'un ^^^^ai.^ i J '»— 8BW^^^^ LXCHANGE.

Sole Licencees for Great Britain :

.«i ureal """■"'• ENLARGED VIEW OF COLLAR STUD

Saunders & Shepherd, birtletts passage, buildings, holborn circus,

NOTICE.— IMMEDIATE PROCEEDINGS WILL BE TAKEN AGAINST ANYONE INFRINGING EITHER OF TM E ABOVE PATENTS. LO N D )N, E.C.

JKafor to tlj* ^bmiraitg anil * Tfm KULLBE RG * tl,t ®omuil of ^tat* for lnMa«
CHRONOMETER AND WATCH MANUFACTURER,!

EVERY DESCRIPTION OF HIGH-CLASS KEYLESS AND ORDINARY WATCHES.

105, LIVERPOOL ROAD^ LONDON, N.

AWARDED SEVEN GOLD MEDALS AND FOUR DIPLOMAS OF HONOUR (HIGHEST AWARDS), and.

The FIRST PRIZE, with the IKIIIKMI OF THE CLOCKHAKERS' COMPANY «i the CITY OF I.OIWMHV, TRIAL,, ISSi, and
the SECOIVO PRIZE for the FINEST CHROIVO.VIFTER ever tested at the ROYAL. OHSERVATOtt Y, 18S!«.

Chronometers -with Mr. Kullberg's new Balances and other improvements have stood the First or Second FOURTEEN

times in the Royal Observatory at Greenwich, out of over 540 competing Chronometers.
At the Sydney Exhibition, 1880, two First-Class Awards were obtained; and although the Watches were not expected to be

entered for competitive trial, they obtained, at the Government Observatory at Sydney, higher marks than those of

any other Exhibitor.

THK WATCHMAKER, JEWELLER AND SILVERSMITH.

[July 1, 1891.

t*i vici.ismit istio.

PARIS 1889.

%e&

ClrBMBRCE fill

30, ELY PLACE, LONDON, E.C.,
MANUFACTURERS OF

Chronometers, Chronographs, Repeaters,

P?Scia^ot?h%Vw.» AND OTHER COMPLICATED WATCHES,

Collective Exhibits.

AS WELL AS VARIOUS GRADES OF

Awarded Silver Medal.

LAIIXT WATCHES, IE IE Y L DO SS S ^L 3XT DO

Factories at CHAUX-DE-PONDS and LES BOIS, SWITZERLAND.

Telegraphic Address :— " I.KS-HOIS, lONDOX."

Patentees of Chronograph, Chronometer, Calendar, Memento, Alarm, and Album Watches. Specialities in Byou and Bracelet Watches.

•9

ESTABLISHED OVER HALF A CENTURY.

30, Ely Place, LONDON, e.g.,.

Manufacturers of HIGH-CLASS CHRONOMETERS and KEYLESS WATCHES.

Speciality: The DOUBLE ROLLER ADJUSTED LEVER

Presentation Watches, with and without Kew A Certificate.

Minute Repeaters, Clock Watches, Perpetual Calendars, and every kind of Complicated Watch in Stock.

L1DIES' MINIATURE WATCHES,

T«I«grrni»liic Artilrca* : "CABMT, lOSDOS.

4 WATCH * MA WaCTWR^

INTERCHANGEABLE CASES,

EXTRA DURABLE

AND DUST PROOF.

^INTERCHANGEABLE

MATERIAL

FOR REPAIRS

ALL GRADES

ENGLISH

LEVER WATCHES,.

KEYLESS

AND

NON-KEYLESS.

Uilnsiratrft Caja%ms anil prirs lists snppKrit to tht {Irak.

rinted and Published by Heywood & Company. Ld., C8, Fleet Street, London, E.C.

Vol. XVII. No. 4]

OCTOBER, 1 8 9 1.

REGISTERED AS A 'NEWSPAPER FOR FOREIGN TRANSMISSION.!

|_5s. pkr Annum, j Frkb
Single Copies, 6d.

Edited by W. J. LEWIS ABBOTT. F.G.S.

68, FLEET STREET, LONDON.

THE WATCHMAKER, JEWELER AND SILVERSMITH.

[October 1, 1891.

Trade M. W. & S * .S. Mark

MANUFACTURERS OF SILVER AND ELECTRO-SILVER PLATED GOODS OF EVERY DESCRIPTION.

Cruet, Liquor

and Breakfast Frames,

Tea and Coffee Services,

Waiters, Cups, and

Biscuit Boxes.

Mounted Crown Derby,

Spode and Wedgewood Ware,

&c.

Spoons and Forks, Fish
Eaters, Desserts, &c.

A Choice Selection always in Stock. Repairs and Re-plating promptly attended to at Moderate Charges. Goods sent on Approval.
EXCHANGE WORKS, ROCKINGHAM STREET, SHEFFIELD.

PEARLS.

RUBIES.

EMERALDS.

SAPPHIRES.

DIAMONDS,

ROUGH & CUT.

DIAMOND GOODS

GEM RINGS.

CATALOGUE

CONTAINING

2,000 DESIGNS

FREE ON APPLICATION.

DEAKIN & FRANCIS,

Patentees of the Hook Brooch, and Collar Fastener.

isc MliilitiiiimuklmuiHiUimyJl^r'.

To Fix the Brooch, insert Hook
A and pull to full extent of
Spring, and then insert Hook B.

Is instantly attached and perfectly safe.

Draws ends of collar together and keeps them
in place.

Has no projecting point to catch, tong or catch
to break, or joint to become loose.

Is put on the thickest dress with ease.

To Fix the Brooch, insert Hook
A and pull to full extent of
Spring, and then insert Hook B.

IT, REGENT PLACE, BIRMINGHAM:.

October 1, 1891.

THE WATCHMAKER, JEWELER AND SILVERSMITH. iii

DIPLOMA :

MELBOURNE
1880-81.

BAUME&CO.

(ESTABLISHED 1834.)

21, HATTON GARDEN, LONDON ;

SWITZERLAND AND COVENTRY.

Watch Manufacturers.

Gold Medal.

DIPLOMA :

MELBOURNE
1880-81.

London, 1862.

Beme, 1857.

Every description of Ordinary, pine, and Complicated Udatehes, Repeaters,

Chronographs, etc.

ISnglisli and Swiss Chronometers.

ENGLISH AND SWISS Watches with Kew A Certificates.

AfeSf.

OPINES iEYERS,

MADE ON THE GAUGED AND INTERCHANGEABLE PRINCIPLE.
All parts of Movements supplied entirely finished.

LONGINES CHRONOGRAPHS, WITH
MINUTE RECKONERS.

The Longines Levers were awarded the
GRAND PRIX (Highest possible award), at
the Paris Exhibition, 1889.

BADME & Co., 21, Hatton Garden, London.

GRIMSHAW $ BAXTER,

T&taltx* in ~W^&tch anb miath fakers' Wools, WdUs anb ^at*rials,

Watch Glasses, Main Springs, Hands, &o.

+ A\p0KTER^ ep AA^SK + eAN- FK^Neh, AN^ qef^AvaN eLeeK^-

Sole Wholesale Agents fort Ezra Kelley's ttjateh and Clock Oils.

OUR NEW ILLUSTRATED CATALOGUE OF TOOLS, TURNS, LATHES, &c,

SENT FREE ON APPLICATION.

Price Lists of Clocks and Watches will be forwarded free on presentation of Business Card.

flo. 33 & 35, Qosuuell *?oad, cie^kenuuell, Iioftdon, E C,

IMPORTANT NOTICE TO THE TRADE.

BROKTS-ES, CLOCKS, CATKJOX2IjiA.tttt.AS, 3>I^.LS, &iC~

Rppai red. parts made, and renovated equal to new; all work done in the i ame process as in Paris. Repairs in general, Bronzing, Gilding
riaung, .Brassing, and Lacquering m all its branches. Estimates submitted for Town and Country Stock Work. Carriage Clocks polished

and matt gilt.

CHEAPEST HOUSE IN THE TRADE FOR RENOVATING ENGLISH AND FRENCH DIALS.
STATUARY AND INSCRIPTIONS RENOVATED BY CONTRACT.

Church Lights, Gaseliers, Electric and Lamp Fitting Brackets, Eook Rests, Communion Plate, &c., re-lacquered, gilt, or plated. Experienced

men sent tor removing and fixing same. Composition Bronzes can be made by our Colours to look equal to real Works of Art. The New French

Florentine, Barbedienne, Egyptian Green, Vert Antique, and Empire Bronzes. Specialities.

BUHL WORK REPAIRED AND RESTORED EQUAL TO NEW.

ESTABLISHED LONDON AND PARIS, 1873.

tl, ST, JOHN STREET ROAD5 CLERKENWELL, LONDON.

THE WATCHMAKER, JEWELER AND SILVERSMITH.

[October 1, 1891.

Telephone No. 4085. Telegraphic Address: SETTERS, BIRMINGHAM. Estimates Free.

GIN

ESTABLISHED 1S71.

iTyar)ufecfuwr)q J e.We.lle.PS, kJiaiYjon&iTyounf c-fs, (sTelasrrjnfjs

Silversmiths, CQed all isms,

iiiiiminiil

Masonic Jewellers. Designs for Jewels forwarded on application. Stock Goods reset in most Modcrn-and.' Artistic Style. Best Attention
given in Jobbing and Approbation departments. Heraldic anil Seal Engravers, Gilders and Platers.

SINGLE STONE DIAMOND EARRINGS. ALSO DIAMOND STARS, CRESCENTS, AND PENDANTS KEPT IN STOCK. NEW DESIGNS CONTINUALLY PRODUCED.'

47, FREDERICK STREET, BIRMINGHAM.

MANUFACTURERS OF BRIGHT AND COLOURED

GO LD CHAINS, for Home and Shipping Trades.
CUf*B B^ACEIiETS RJit> SMOOCHES,
j^"*als, ^entrants, an& ^P^^bals

IN GREAT VARIETY.

Telegraphic Address: "QUALITY, ^^^-^^a^^^t^RL ^ " Jltltorts,

BIRMINGHAM." ~^Ld$P**M "WJ§ 1P^ ^— -" "fieeklets St Liadies' Alberts

OF NEW AND ATTRACTIVE DESIGNS ALWAYS IN STOCK.

flflliLt-mfl^^ED I^EEPEf* t^I|4GS

IN EVERY VARIETY AND QUALITY

ILLUSTRATED CATALOGUES AND PRICE LISTS ON APPLICATION.

IT FLlCEj BIRHIHGHA

London Address: 60, HATTON GARDEN.

THE "CASTLE" LINK

IS INSTANTLY INSERTED OR REMOVED.
IS ENTIRELY SELF-ADJUSTING.
DOES NOT CREASE THE CUFF.
DOES NOT WEAR THE BUTTON HOLE.
U3- HAS NO SPRINGS OR COMPLICATED

PARTS TO GET OUT OF ORDER.

♦ READY FOR INSERTING IN CUFF

T, WALTER JONES,

43} ;

♦

^patentee anit

j^ole ^tatrafartarcr,
48-51), HYLTON STREET, BIRMINGHAM.

Telegraphic Address : "STUDS, BIRMINGHAM." ONLY WHOLESALE HOUSES SUPPLIED.

IN CUFF.

MADE IN

GOLD, SILVER,

GOLD PLATE, PEARL,

GOLD CASED,
NICKEL SILVER, &c.

October 1, 1891.]

THE WATCHMAKER, JEWELER AND SILVERSMITH.

v.-

SON & CO.

Messrs. STAUFF

Have just passed at the Kew Observatory a Gold Tourbillon Chronometer, which attained
the extraordinary number of 91*6 marks, thus BEATING ALL RECORDS. For positional
adjustment it gained 39*3 marks out of a possible 40. This is the same Chronometer which
obtained the FIRST PRIZE AND HONORS for its marvellous results at the Neuchatel
Observatory. The watch referred to was made throughout at their own factory : Chaux-de-
fonds, Switzerland.

KEW OBSERVATORY REPORTS:

September 2, 1891.

" Qentlewim, — %p to the present date your tourbillon Chronometer,
13686H, has obtained he HIGHEST MARKS RECORDED HERE.

Sfours truly,

"G. M. Whipple."

Stauffer, Son & Co.,

13, CHARTERHOUSE STREET, Holborn, LONDON,

And CHAUX-DE-FONDS, SWITZERLAND.

MAKERS OF ALL KINDS OF WATCHES.

SWINDEN & SONS

(ESTABLISHED 1825),

^8$aKc%v

oofc • 0/h3 • **$Cateiial$.

PRICE LIST on receipt of Business Card.

27, 28 & 29, TEMPLE STREET, BIRMINGHAM.

MANUFACTURER OF

Badges of Every Description.
L1L& SEAL ENGRAVING.

Rings, etc., for Sealing.

CAB A 1 and INITIAL
PUNCHES.

C Ira ha, |tabela, ztc.

A.~ FENWICK (IZT7ZII)

16, RtlGUSTA STREET, BlRCQIflGHACQ.

SOLDERING BLOCKS OF

COMPRESSED CHARCOAL,

PRACTICALLY INDESTRUCTIBLE.
FOR JEWELLERS' BLOW-PIPE USE.

Sizes in Stock 5 in. by 2£ in. by 1 in., 7/- per dozen ; 6h in.

by 1 in. by 1 in., 4/- per dozen. Samples of each size sent Post

free for 1/3. Stamps or P.O.O.

PURE ACIDS, GOID SOLUTIONS, SILVER SOLUTION'S,

ALUM, BORAX, SALTPETRE, etc.

T> IR, I C E S ON .A. IE> !F IL. I C -A.X ION.

PHILIP HARRIS & CO., Ltd.,

Whohssk dentists,

144 & 146, EDMUND STREET, BIRMINGHAM.

THE WATCHMAKER, JEWELER AND SILVERSMITH.

[October 1, 1891.

BOTWRI6HT and GREY,

(Late A. H. BOTWRIGHT.)

Manufacturing

WHOLESALE AND

£*vS

(Established 1865.)

Opticians,

FOR EXPORTATION ONLY.

MAKERS OF EVERY DESCRIPTION OF SPECTACLES AND FOLDERS, IN STEEL, SHELL, GOLD, SILVER AND HORN ; SOLID, NICKEL, GERMAN SILVER, &c, AT THE LOWEST POSSIBLE PRICES

MASON'S IMPROVED OPTOMETER, REGISTERED! Price 17/6 each, net. Manufactured only by ourselves.

This instrument, while saving time and trouble in testing accurately, denotes the proper strength glasses required by persons suffering from
long, short, or old sight, and is admitted by Scientists to be one of the best instruments in use for measuring the loss of power of the eye. Full

and complete instructions with each.
REPAIRS, OP EVERY DESCRIPTION1, IN EVERY CASE WE EXECUTE AND SEND BACK BY RETURN POST.

Oculists' and Hospital Prescriptions prepared. Sphero Cylinders and Prisms worked to order, and in ever7 case by return mail

u r WE INVITE INSPtCTION OF OUR LARGE STOCK. _«, ,*««Ss^ Uln

FIELD GLASSES

(In variety of Patterns.)

READING GLASSES

(All Sizes.)

TELESCOPES

(All Sizes.)

EXTRA POWER FIELD
GLASSES.

Best English Clinical Thermometers, with or without Kew Certificates, 22s. per dozen ; Certificates, 13s. per dozen extra.

13, SPENCER ST., GLERRENWELL, LONDON.

Established 1819.

V/AJIPU*rnN G0TJHI(5 WOF^KS, FATTORINI & SONS'

YAUU^n I UiHj BiF^Mi^iGH/fM. new patent /Co/

MEDALS, BADGES, M4S0NIC JEWELS,

ELECJICALARDM/^;

Mi. John's ~yRIotks,
92, CLERKENWELL ROAD,

f ottomt, <£.€.

T. T. STURTEYANT,

flafcr,
Electro-Plate Manufacturer.

SEND FOR

PRICE LIST
FOR

The only Electric Alarum in the
world that can be carried from
room to room without derange-
ment. There is no fixing of
wires, and it can be placed
anywhere like an ordinary
Carriage Clock. Will not
stop ringing until you
get up and turn off
the switch.

RETAIL PRICE

35/-

Dry Battery
can be sent
to any part
of the
World.

The

Cheapest

Wholesale

House in the

Country for

High- class

WHLTHHIIl
WATCHES.

The Trade supplied
at the Lowest

WHOLESALE
PBICES,

Finest Vienna Regulators

The Best in the Trade, delivered Car-
riage Free from the factory direct.
New Designs in Marble, Onyx, and
other Clocks. -*>

tlZ^l: BRADFORD.

OCTOBEK 1, 1891.}

THE WATCHMAKEB, JEWELER AND SILVERSMITH.

1. 3. Greenberg & Co.,

Jewellers, Silversmiths, Watch and Clock Manufacturers and Importers,

Plate and Bullion Dealers.

TERMS;
NETT, MONTHLY.

We give better value than any other house in the trade, and send out all

Goods at the Prices advertised.

JEIVELLEB"

ETC.

72/6 oz
63/-
40/-
4/9

Hall-Marked 18-ct. Alberts, fashion included

„ ,, lo-ct. ,, ,, j,

„ ,, y-ct. ,, ,, ,,

Gents' Hall-Marked Silver Alberts

Ladies' Silver Tassel Alberts, "800 quality, newest

designs 7/6

H.M. 18-ct. Keeper Rings, fashion 15/- doz. Gold ... 68/-

H.M. 9-ct. Keeper Rings, fashion 7/6 doz. „ ... 34/-

22-ct. Wedding Rings 83/6

18-ct. „ „ 72/6

9-ct. „ „ 40/-

9-ct. H.M. Signets ... 2/- 2/3 2/6 2/9 3/- 3/6 3/9 4/-
9-ct. H.M. Imitation Diamond Rings, finest quality from 2/-

9-ct. H.M. Ladies' Fancy Rings, Real Stones „ 2/6

Hall-Marked Silver Medals, fashion included 7/3 oz.

Rings ,. ,, 7/6 „

„ „ ,, Brooches from6/-doz.

„ „ „ Seals 1/- ea.

„ „ ,, Fusee Boxes and Cigarette Cases

Fashion included 9/- oz.

Best Finish Pure White Metal (all through) Alberts . . . 4/6 doz.

Special line in best Nickel-Plated Steel Alberts ...from 1/- „

CLOCKS^

Marble Clocks, from

1 -Day Nickel. Time, 1/10, Alarm

Rosewood and Gilt Cottage. Time, 2/3, Alarm
Vienna Weight Regulators, 8-day, 44-in long ...
Best French Carriage Clocks, in cases, from 15/- to ...
The " Parker," in brass drum and morocco leather case
Anglo- Americans, " Jeeome " movement, in English-
made cases, from

BRITISH UNITED CLOCKS.

7/6 each.

2/7

) J

3/-

18/6

£5

4/-

11/6

We make a special leading line of the above.
Price Lists and Pattern Sheets on application.

Highly-Finished Silver Crystal Fusee Lever

Do. do. do. Going Barrel

Highly -Finished Silver, Deep Pillar, Bold Dial, Crystal,
Improved Patent English Fusee Lever, 20 size,
50/-, 21 size, 52/6, 22 size

Highly-Finished Silver Crystal Fusee Lever, Expansion
Balance, Sprung above, Silver Dial, Gold Chapters,
21 size

Highly - Finished Silver, Crystal Centre Seconds,
Chronograph Fusee, 6 Holes Extra, Expansion
Balance, Cream Double Sunk Dial

Highly - Finished Silver Fusee Lever, Expansion
Balance, Sprung above, Engraved Cases, Gold
Garter, Silver Dial with Gold Figures, suitable for
the Scotch Market

43/-
40/-

55/-

60/-

65/-

62/-

each.

Ladies' Gold 9-ct. Substantial Cases, highly-finished

movement, Gilt or Ivory Dial ... 17/6 each.

„ 14-ct. „ „ ... 21/6 „

„ 18-ct. „ „ ... 26/6 „

,, „ 9-ct. Strong Case, Specialitie 21/- ,

GENEVA WATCHES -Continued.

Ladies' Gold 9-ct. Lever, 16 lines, Extra Heavy
Cases, Compensation Balance, Full

Jewelled 38/- „

„ 14-ct. „ „ ... 46/- „

,, „ 14-ct. 15 Lines, Extra Heavy, Bassine

Cases, Richly Engraved, Jewelled
8 Holes, Gold or Rich Ivory Dial... 35/- each.
',, ,, The same Watch with Keyless action 38/- ,,

„ „ 18-ct., Extra Heavy Cases, Key-winder 48/- ,,

„ ,, „ „ ,, Keyless 51/- ,,

,, „ 9-ct. 15 lines, Extra Heavy, Bassine

Cases, 8 Holes Jewelled, Gold or

Ivory Dial, Keyless 27/6 „

Gents' Gold 9-ct. Lever, Key-winder, Extra Heavy
Case, Compensation Balance,

Jewelled in 10 holes 42/- ,,

,, „ 14-ct. „ „ ... 50/- ,,

Ladies' Silver, Fancy Dial 9/- ,,

„ Sterling Silver 11/- ,,

„ „ „ Richly Engraved Bassine Case 12/6 „

Ivory Dial 14/- „

„ „ „ f-plate, Ivory or Silver Dials, 15/- ,,

,, „ „ f-plate, Ivory Dial, with

Seconds 15/- „

„ ,, „ Bassine Case,Richly Engraved

Lever, Jewelled in 10 holes,
Sunk Dials with Seconds 23/6 ,,
Gents' Silver f-plate, 19 and 20-line, Strong Cases 10/- ,,

„ Silver Chronographs with Silver Dome 13/- ,,

„ Sterling Silver f-plate, 8 holes Jewelled ... 14/- „
„ „ „ 20-line f-plate Lever, Compen-

sation Balance, Double
Sunk Dial, Full Jewelled 23/6 ,,
„ „ „ „ Full-Plate Lever, Com-

pensation Balance,
Light or Bold Dials 23/6 ,,
Bracelet Watches, in Gold and Silver, kept in stock.
Every mate of Swiss Watches supplier! from stock.

Note. — We sell the "Alpine" and. "Paragon" Watches (as
advertised) cheaper than any other house in the Trade. Samples
on approbation.

METAL •X/STjA-'TCSmSS.

Gents' Nickel Key- winder with Dome and Enamel Dial 4/- each.
„ Keyless „ „ ,, 5/9 ,,

The " Beaucourt," which has been awarded the
First Prize at all Exhibitions. Japy make, in
white metal, with Registered Trade Mark ... 5/3 ,,

Real " Victoria," with Metal Dome 7/3 „

Pure White Metal, all through " Argentine "

Keyless, with Dome, will wear like Silver ... 8/6 ,,

Pure White Metal all through Chronographs,

Snap 8/- ,,

,, „ ., Sprung Cases 8/6 ,,

Pure White. Metal all through "Stag" full-
plate Levers, Bold and Light Dials, with
Registered Trade-marl s " Stag's Head " and
tie word " Silveetjs " inside the case, without
which none are genuine ... ... ... ... 9- ,,

" -WTALTIIAM " SWATCHES.

The Cheapest House in the Trade for every description of the
above, in Ladies' and Gents' Gold and Silver Keyless and Key-
winding. Price List on Application.

Repairs and Mountings done in the very beBt style at Moderate Charges, and returned same day.
Approbation Orders. — A large selection of Diamond Rings and Ornaments. Bright and Colored Gold and Silver Jewellery,

Watches and Plate kept in Stock for approbation.

32, YYSE ST., Birmingham.

TELEGRAPHIC ADDRESS —"GREENBER G, BIRMINGHAM."
*% To Insure immediate attention all first Orders should be accompanied by Trade or Bank References.

Vlll

THE WATCHMAKEE, JEWELF.". AND SILVEESMITH.

rOcTOBER 1, 1891

INTERNATIONAL EXHIBITION.
1862.

JCROKS MEDAL.
♦♦♦♦♦♦♦♦♦♦♦♦♦♦♦♦♦♦♦♦♦♦♦♦I

ESTABLISHED 50 YEARS. ♦

Chronometer Makers to
the Admiralty.

SPECIAL ATTENTION

COLONIAL

AND

HASWELL & SONS,

49 & 50, g>pencer tptxeet, gferiteproeff.

4g# ;

"TRIUMPH,"
'BOLEY'S," "MARTIN"

GO-AHEAD" LATHES,

With all Accessories.

Established 50 Years.
♦♦»♦♦♦♦♦♦♦♦♦♦♦♦♦♦♦♦♦♦♦♦♦♦♦♦♦♦*

INVENTIONS EXHIBITION, 1885

HIG-HEST AWARD, SILVER MEDAL.

FOREIGN ORDERS
♦♦♦♦♦♦♦♦♦♦♦♦♦♦♦♦♦♦♦♦♦♦♦«" -5^

GENERAL ILLUSTRATED PRICE LIST ON APPLICATION.

NON-MAGNETIC COMPENSATED WATCHES, BRACELET WATCHES, AND ALL VARIETIES.
Telegraphic Address :

ormolu, London. THE HOUSE FOR FASHIONABLE NOVELTIES

222 8c 224, GOSWELL BOAT), LCXLSTDCXN, E.C.
flQanafaetamng Silversmiths and Jeuaellei*s,

ART METAL AND FANCY LEATHER WORKERS,

Originators and Makers of the Untarnishable Plated Filigree Photo-frames. Fancy Leather Goods with Silver

H.M. and Untarnishable Plated Mounts. Specialities for Presents. Registered Novelties. Art Designers.
Photo-frames. Mirrors. Brushes and Toilet Sets. Thermometers and Barometers. Clocks. Table Ornaments.
Pin-cushions. Watch-Stands. Jewel Cases. Puff and Sweet Boxes. Reading Glasses. Button-hooks and Shoe-
lifts. Paper-knives, Buckles, Clasps. Chatelaines and Fittings. Belts and Bags. Flower Vases, etc.

In Silver H.M. and Untarnishable Plate. Leather, with Fancy Mounts.
LOOK HERE every month for our Illustrated Novelties.

POCKET MIRRORS.

In Silver and Hated.

CRUMB BRUSH AND TRAY.

In untarnishable Plated.

TOBACCO JARS.

Chased Design in un-
tarnishable Hated.

DRAWING-ROOM
DUSTER.

Feather Brush, assorted

Colors,

with Plated Handle.

THE SEDAN CHAIR
[PIN-CUSHION.

HYACINTHE GLASS.

In vmtarnishable
Plated Mount.

PLAIN EBONY BRUSHES AND TRAYS.

Or with Silver Letters and Monograms.

PERPETUAL

REVOLVING DATE

CALENDARS.

In Silver and Plated.

PRICES OF ABOVE and ILLUSTRATED PRICE LISTS sent free on application.

KING & SONS, Manufacturers, 222 & 224, Goswell Rd., London, E.C.

October 1, 1891.]

THE WATCHMAKER, JEWELER AND SILVERSMITH.

C. J. PLUCKNETT & CO., 29, Poland St., London, W.

INSTANTANEOUS

SAW GRIP.

For use on Piercing,
Buhl, Fret, and other

Saw-Frames.

VZZ2.

THE GRIP takes the place of the ordinary Screw, and is invaluable to piercers and all using a Saw
frame. By a simple pressure of tht Thumb or Finger on the Lever, the Saw is released or made
fast in a moment. It is practical', y everlasting.

8s. per doz. • • Can be fitted to old frames at Is. each.

SAW-FRAMES COMPLETE, FITTED WITH THE GRIP, 1/9, 2/6, 3/-, 3/6 to 6 j- EACH,
Supplied by all Tool Material dealers everywhere.

C.J. PLUCKNETT & CO.,

29, POLAND STREET,

LONDON, W.

Dealers in Gold and Silver, Jewellers

and Watchmakers' Tools and Materials,

Files, Piercing Saws, Watch Glasses,

Hands, &c, &c.

OLD GOLD AND SILVER BOUGHT BY ASSAY.

Manufacturers and Dealers in Watch and Clock Makers and Jewellers' Tools and

Materials of every Description.

EOT FY TATTTl^S A TV T) TOOTS

TRIUMPH, MARTIN, AND GO-A-HEAD LATHES ALWAYS IN STOCK.

LANCASHIRE FILES, SCREW PLATES, NIPPERS, PLYERS, HANDS, &e.
Full Detailed Illustrated Catalogue on application. Special Quotations for Large Buyers.

JOBBINGr .A. SPECIALITY.

Keyless Winding Wheels, Clock Wheels and Pinions Cut to Patterns.

Watch, Clock and Jewellery Bepairs of every Description.

34, UNION STRlEL^^LbHAMTlANCASHIRE.

A. SYDENHAM.

WMesale & manufacturing Jeweller,

26, Frederick St., BIRMINGHAM.

For Athletic Soorts

Skating, Yachting, '

Boating, Curling,

Golfing, Swimming,

Shooting, &c.

Agricultural Shows.

Eoot, Bird, Dog,
Babbit, Horse, Bee,

Pigeon, Canary,
Poultry Shows, &c.

DRAWINGS and
PRICES

TO THE TRADE ONLY ON
APPLICATION.

IMIIEIDALS OIF ALL ZKHZLSTDS.

SOVEREIGN

PURSES,
All Hall-marked.

Silver, plain ... 5/6
„ engraved 6/9
,, fancy ... 7/6

A. SYDENHAM has
a charming lot of all
sorts of small Silver
ware of a similar de-
scription to the above
articles.

SILVER MATCH
BOXES.

.rCk:

English Rose, Is. 6d.

A. SYDENHAM'S NEW NAME

SROOCHES

Ake Well Wouth Keeping.

Drawings and Prices on Application.

WALTHAM WATCHES.

A. Sydenham has just added to his splendid stock

a full selection of

GOLD & SICVER "WALTHAM WATCHES

and will be much obligad for your orders.

THE WATCHMAKER, JEWELER AND SILVERSMITH.

[October 1, 1891.

,§prci;il Srnson fMttltg.

Carved Tearl Pansy
Brooches.

^dofcsafe geweffer,

Sjjcrial Sschsoit ^obcltg.

Violin & Banjo Brooches
in Black & White Pearl.

31, NEWGATE STREET, LONDON, E.C.,

IMPORTER OF NOVELTIES IN

FRENCH. AUSTRIAN, AND ITALIAN FANCY JEWELLERY, FINEST CORAL BEADS AND SNAPS.

FRENCH, ROMAN AND ORIENT PEARLS, PASTE JEWELLERY, BUCKLES HAIR ORNAMENTS, &c.

CHATELAINES AND FITTINGS OF EVERY DESCRIPTION; SILVER, SILVER PLATED AND

OXYDISED METAL AND STEEL. SOVEREIGN PURSES IN GOLD, SILVER AND METAL.

SILVER-MOUNTED TOILET BOTTLES AND SILVER-MOUNTED BRUSHES OF ALL KINDS.

Registered
elegraphic address:

IVY
LONDON.

A LARGE ASSORTMENT OF FINEST STEEL JEWELLERY ALWAYS IN STOCK.

C. T. HEWITT & S0JY, ^Wabob Manu^Gburers.ly "' St™

The Senior Partner was for 32 years with the late Mr. C. Flint, and for the last 10 years occupying the position of Foreman to the same.

LEATHER,

VEREDWITH ff^B

Plush.Velvet, Etc ■fccM

OLD GOLD BOUGHT. *** *** BANGLES, RINGS, TO ORDER. ***

&ST£&BIrISBEEB 1874.

Trade
S.H.

Mark

GOLD WEDDING RING MANUFACTURER,

IBanlurs: — Hational ^oyihgial Bank, op €ngland, Lcimuhed, Birmingham.

Registered Telegraphic Address: "HOPEFUL," BIRMINGHAM.

October 1, 1891.]

THE WATCHMAKEE, JEWELER AND SILVERSMITH.

THE WHITEST ALLOY
INVENTED

dritirs on JUbo JSilber.

" The alloy registered under the name of ' Albo
Silver," is peculiarly suitable for the manufacture
of Chains and Jewellery ; it has the -whiteness of
grain silver, without a tinge of the yellow or the
leady colour generally characteristic of alloys of thi?
kind. Indeed, so highly was it reported on at the
British Association Exhibition by the authorities
of llason College, that at their request samples in
ingot and in a manufactured state were perma-
nently deposited in the museum of that institu-
tion."— Tile Watchmaker, Jeweller and Silversmith.

N. G. READING & Co.,

186, 187, Warstone Lane,

Birmingham.

Silver ^ Qold Plated Chains

Proprietors and Sole Manufacturer 8 oj
the Celebrated Registered

T " HLBO SILYER "

Chains & Jewellery,

The Whitest Alloy indented.
As durable in wear as fine Silver.

Regist'd "WARSTONE BEST"
Gold Cased Chains.

Warranted positively to resist Acids.

MIDGET. LADIES' ALBERTS.
COMPASS CHARMS, SEALS, AND LOCKETS.

N. C. R.'s goods can be purchased through all
respectable Wholesale houses.

Critics nit %Vats J^tlber.

"up into various articles of Jewellery, such as
ladies' and gents' chains, seals, lockets, vesta
boxes, &c. Every article beats a registered pareh-

ijment label, and all swivels are marked N.C.R.Co.
We can safely recommend our country and
colonial friends to order through their facto
goods bearing these marks and labels."

__ ). HARBOLD &

No. 2 & 3, ST. PAUL'S SQUARE, BIRMINGHAM,

•»

SSAYERS, tpiflERS, AW PALERS IN PLLM,

FINE GOLD IN SHEET OR GRAIN; FINE SILVER IN SHEET, GRAIN, OR INGOT;

STERLING SILVER IN INGOTS OR SHEET; FINE AND STERLING WIRES,

ANY SIZES AND PATTERNS.

Patent Watch Pendants, Blanks, Stampings, Beads, &c.

SILVER SOLDERS, ALL QUALITIES ; PURE COPPER FOR ALLOYS.

GOLD, SILYER, AND PARTING BARS BOUGHT BY ASSAY.

The Full Market Value given for Old Gold, Silver, Lace, Watch Cases ;

ALSO

Jewellers', Dentists' Sweeps, Polishings, and Photographers' Waste.

Remittances forwarded and prompt attention paid to Parcels
received from the Country,

W. BLOXHAM,

183, HOCKLEY ST^/^ftP^

BIRMINGHAM.

SPECIALITIES :

PIVOTING & JEWELLING.

All kinds of Jewellery repaired.

PRICE LIST ON APPLICATION.

J. RAPJit

lltanufatfurinq

OPTICIANS,

- 13,-

OXFORD STREET,

benden, w.

THE House fo^every conceivable kind of Optical Goods.

OPTICIANS AND THE TRADE WOULD DO WISELY TO GIVE A CALL OR WRITE.

12, 13, 14, 15, & 24, ST. JOHN'S LANE, CLERKENWELL, LONDON,

gmporter^ cwd ^enerctf ^factors.

Clocks, Watches, Gold and Silver Jewellery. All kinds of Fancy Goods. Watch and Clockmakers' Materials.

Watch Glasses, Main Springs, Sands, Watch and Clock Oil; Paste, Steel and Jet Brooches and Earrings; Silk, Morn,

Vulcanite, Steel and Black Bead Alberts; Spectacles, Eye-Glasses, Reading Glasses; Table Cutlery.

THE MANUFACTURERS' WHOLESALE HOUSE FOR—

E. P. Tea Sets, Salad Bowls, Liqueur Frames, Cruets, Sugars.
Inkstands, Biscuits, Prize Cups, Nickel Silver and E. P.
Spoons and Forks, Fish Eaters, Dessert Sets, Fish Carvers
BROOCHES, EARRINGS, STUDS, SPECTACLES, JEWELLERY, ETG,«>

Walton's Specialities, Jones' Castle Links. Collapsible

Drinking Cup, Mexican Silver Alberts.

N. C. Reading's Albo-Silver Chains and Jewellery, Birch's Keys. Dorcas

Thimbles, the Gripper Thimble. Barrett's Coin Mounts. All other

Coin Mounts. Progress Screws. British United Clocks.

HAVING NO TRAVELERS WE INVITE YOU TO CALL OR SEND AND COMPARE OUP PR'Ci=»

XII

THE WATCHMAKER. JEWELER AND SILVERSMITH.

[October 1, 1891.

JOHN

*-»i»]) LiimiTED. p<

r<-*

ON,

SHEFFIELD *W> LONDON.

TELEGRAPHIC ADDRESSES— " ROUNDS, SHEFFIELD;" "ROUNDS, LIMITED, LONDON."

. <► «n> o «

REGISTERED COFFEE SPOONS.

Drawn full size, and supplied in Cases containing 6 or 12 Spoons and 1 pair Tongs in each case.

SHAMROCK.

THISTLE.

COMBINATION.

HARP.

PRIMROSE

GILT TOP.

Cheapest House in the trade for Silver Spoons and Forks. Large Stock kept ready for immediate delivery.

LARGEST MAKERS OF SPOONS AND FORKS IN THE WORLD.

Our New Supplementary Catalogue is now ready for delivery, and may bo had by the Trade only, Post Free on application.

October 1, 1891.]

THE WATCHMAKER, JEWELER AND SILVERSMITH.

ROBERT PRINGLE & COMPANY,

SILVERSMITHS, &jo. .

WILDERNESS WORKS, 40 and 42, CLERKENWELL ROAD, LONDON, E.G.,

Beg to inform Shopkeepers and Dealers that they now have a well assorted Stock of the following goods in
XX^^.X.X«-3!KE^Sk.X&XS:3E3 33 SILVER.

H.M. Silver Napkin Rings in cases of

six
H M. ditto, ditto, in cases of pairs
H.M. ditto, ditto, in cases singly
H.M. ditto Salt Cells and Spoons, in

cases of four
H.M. ditto, ditto, in cases of pairs
H.M. ditto Muffineers, in cases of pairs

H.M. Silver Fancy Salt Spoons

H.M. ditto Fancy Mustard Spoons

H M. ditto Fruit Knives (pearl & ivory

handles)
H.M. ditto Butter Knives ditto, ditto
H.M. ditto Match Boxes
H.M. ditto Cigarette Cases
H.M. ditto Sovereign Purses

H.M. Silver Apostle and other 5 o'clock

Tea Spoons, in eases of six
H.M. ditto Children's Knife, Fork, and

Spoon, in cases
H.M. ditto Children's Spoon & Fork,

in cases
H.M. ditto Ladies' Card Cases, in cases
H.M. ditto Gents' ditto, ditto
H.M. ditto Children's Cans

Most of the above Goods can also he had in ELECTRO-PLATE. Send for Price Lists, or give the firm a call.
H P. and Co., being wholesale, do not advertise their prices to the Public throuqh the medium of Trade Journals

HUjoUsale & JRaraifarturhtj -Jfcfodtas, j&lbmtttitljs & Btantfltift Jttmmte,

FREDERICK STREET, BIRMINGHAM.

Sole Licensees for the 1NTEW " INYICTA " BROOCH.

ADVANTAGES.

1st. — No projecting points, thus preventing
injury to children, etc.

2nd. — The facility with which it can be
attached or removed.

3rd. — Greater safety.

Prov. Protected, No. 7677. Perfect snfety. Breakages reduced to a minimum

No. 1 sketch shows Brooch with
pin B closed. No. 2 sketch shows
pin B drawn out. Insert the pin
A in the dress and secure Brooch
by closing pin B, as shown in
section sketch No. 3.

ADVANTAGES.

4th. — Complete immunity from breakages
of joints, pins or catches.

5th. — Has all the advantages of a
safety Brooch without the difficulty of
adjustment.

Special designs prepared for all Mounting Orders. Strict attention paid to Appro- Orders and Repairs.

Do not be imposed u
unreliable imitatio

THE

GENUINE "TRIUMPH
LATHE

IS WARRANTED ACCURATE
IN EVERY DETAIL.

The "Triumph" is to
be had everywhere, only
insist on getting the
GENUINE, in order to
avoid disappointment.

XIV

THE WATCHMAKER, JEWELER AND SILVERSMITH.

[October 1, 1891.

WEILL & CO.,

Established 1863. •*

WATCH MANUFACTURERS AND IMPORTERS OF MUSICAL
SPECIALITIES:

THE ASCOT"

"The WINNER."

A Double-split Non-magnetic Chrono-
graph, Quadruple Dial and Minute
Recorder, with

PATENT OTTINOQUS SPLIT ACTION.

file Celebrated JVEacliine- inside

In Gold, Silver, and Nickel.

Levers & Horizontals.

Keyless & Non-Keyless.

cfczuc&t&l fyVatche?>. §t3'tit Qnzoncq icvpTu>, QfCon-'iflLaamkic and QafcwdatfyVatchz
ILLUSTRATED CATALOGUE ON APPLICATION.

3, HOLBORN CIRCUS, LONDON, E.G.

AND 40; RUE LEOPOLD-ROBERT, CHAUX-DE-FONDS, SWITZERLAND.

ENGLISH, SWISS
AMERICAN

WATCHES

Gold, Silver & Metal

English, French,
American, and
German

CLOCKS.

Every Make

in Stock.
The largest

stock of
NovelUfs
in Vlw-k.i
in the
trade.

DIAMOND,
Op*. / GOLD,
//*J / SILUER,
J^/ / JET and
^%T^ / ftney Jewelry.

OC> / ~*~ /

^^ J / Everything/ /"V**
/ for Ladies' ,e / L ^\

for Ladies' &

Gentlemen's
wear.

All Novelties
as they issue
Materials and
every requi
site for the
trade

Purses,
Chatelaine,

And every description
of Fancy Plate in Hall
marked Silver and Best
Electro-Plate.

Cigar,
Cigarette,
Vesta and
Card Cases,
Button Hooks,
Paper Knives,
Apostle

Spoons,
Fruit Knives,
Pickle Forks,
Salts,
Scent Bottles,
Sovereign

Our
illus-
trated
Price List

contains nearly
2,000 illustra-
tions of the
Newest Designs in
all goods ; also a
Table of Plate Hall
Marks from 1858 to date,
Specimens of Engravings
in Colours, a List of useful
Books of Eeference, Watch
Size Gauge, and much in-
teresting information.
IT CAN BE HAD FREE.

Business Card must be sent with
Application-

London-made 9ct. Alberts, Hall-marked on every link, fashion included ..

Nickel Keyless Watches .. .. .. .. .. .. Gents' from 5s. 6d

Silver Watches ■ ■ .. .. .. .. .. .. „ „ 10s. 6d

Gold Watches ..

„ „ 18ct. English Keyless, three-quarter plate Levers

„ „ 10 holes jewelled, chronometer balance, very strong cases

"Bee" Clocks, in London-made Leather Cases complete ••

Hall-marked Silver Mounted Malacca Walking Sticks
„ „ Name Brooches, any name

.. 40s. per oz.

Ladies' from 8s. 6d.

„ 8s. 9d.

„ 9ct. „ 20s.

Gents' £10 12s. 6d.

Ladies' £7 12s. 6d.

3s. 9d, each.

from 2s. 9d. each.

Is. each.

Telegraphic Address :-" HENCOOP, LONDON."

HB J. COOPER & Co,. LTD,. 150, Oxford Street, London.

WHOLESALE ONLY.

October 1, 1891.]

THE WATCHMAKER, JEWELER AND SILVERSMITH.

PAUL JEANNOT

33, HOLBORN VIADUCT, LONDON, E.C.

MANUFACTURER OF SWISS WATCHES OF EVERY DESCRIPTION— Fine and Ordinary.

SPECIALITY;-

The Double Roller Adjusted Leyer

Keyless Watch, with and without Kew Certificates, in Nickel, Steel, Silver and Gold Cases.

MANUFACTORIES AT GENEVA AND CHAUX - DE - FON DS.i

Telegraphic Address :— " JEANNOT, LONDON."

COMPLETE

ELECTRO -PLATING PLANT

FOR WATCHMAKERS AND JEWELERS.

Prices from £3 to £4,000. Estimates Free.

O. BEREND & Co.,

^\^~- ELECTRICAL ENGINEERS,

61, FORE STREET, LONDON, E.C.

ESTABLISHED 1 830.

manufacturer of ail kinds of tClatehes.

3H- CHOFARD,

SONVILLIER (SWITZERLAND),

(Successoe OF F. Chopaed.)

Exportation of Good Medium Keyless and Key Watches to

all Countries.

SPECIALITIES OF ENGLISH STYLE <H. 1132, J.).

Large and Small Watches, Hunters and Open Faces.

£api3ci/£i4 and Wx&wow*
Stone DEALER

^rT SPENCER STREET,

done on the Premises.

BIRMINGHAM.

— ---"

THIS TRADE MARK GIVES YOU EVERY PROTECTION,

THAT DO NOT rJEAE THIS
EEGISTERED TEADE MAEK.

WHOLESALK ONLY FROM THE MANDFACTDR.ETI —

I LANGDALE, Standard Jet Works, WHITBY, YOEKS.

It Oleic is any liitiieultv in obtaining ut the shops send « po-icard to Munuiactur<"-
who will »end mime of nearest Jeweller keeping them.

To Wholesale Manufacturers. Royalties Granted on Easy Terms- Patent No. 1703,

WALKER'S Newly-Invented 8-DAY LEVER WATCH

IT REQUIRES ONLY TO BE WOUND UP ONCE A WEEK

(312 TURNS a year, instead of 1,400 TURNS, as required by Ike ordinal-!/ one-day watch.)

Testimonials and Terms sent on application to

S. ^L^ei^, 21, SOUTH ROAD, WATERLOO, LIVERPOOL.

TEADE MARK

Telegraphic Address :
"SILVER, BIRMINGHAM.'

TRADE MARK

ESTABLISHED FIFTY YEARS.

Em JOHN THOMASON & NEPHEWS e^li

(Late HILLIARD & THOMASON),

1, 3, and 8, SPENCER STREET, BIRMINGHAM,

General Silversmiths and Manufacturers of all Descriptions of Silver Goods.

SPECIALITY :— Cased Goods suitable for Presentations, for Christening, Birthday,

or Wedding Presents, in every variety.

■■ ■ ■ 1. « .

TETE-A-TETE TEA SETS, FISH CARVERS, PRIZE CUPS.
Salts, Serviette Rings, Cigarette Cases, Flasks, &c.

ALL KINDS OF REPAIRS BY RETURN.

XVI

T1IK WATCHMAKER, JEWELER AND SILVERSMITH.

[October 1, 1891.

SILVER MEDAL

I VI I 1 ! I T T I 1 I 1 1 1 I 1 1 1 I n

USHER & COLE,

PARIS, 1889.
1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 ii 1 1

^ Q\)roY)0[x\eter * ai?d * U/atef? * /T\al\er$ * to * tf?<? * /ld/ryralty. *~

105, ST. cJOHJM STREET ROAD, LONDON.

Manufacturers of London-made

Calendars, Repeaters, Chronographs, and Marine Chronometers.

REPAIRS OF ALL KINDS-

Watches with Kew Observatory "A" Certificates. Illustrated Catalogues and Price Lists.

^TliOR

Late JOHN TAYLOR. Established 1878.

0<msrf<a@1wiHg ^pti@iaHg for tEe; Ipnirde; and |>Sippe;rg enty.

OPERA GLASSES, FIELD & MARINE GLASSES, TELESCOPES, BARO-
METERS. (Special Fancy Patterns at Low Fieures). Thermometers, Photo-
graph Cameras, Lenses and Stands. Spectacle Cases, Eyeglass Cases,
Eyeglass Cords, Lenses of every description, plain and tinted. Pebble
Spectacles. Oculists' Prescriptions carefully worked, Repairs (same
day as received).

Spectacles and Folders in every Pattern known to the trade, from cheapes
to the very best, in Gold, Silver, Steel, Solid Nickel, and Tortoiseshell. Specialise
in Non-Rusting Folders and Spectacles for Export Trade All the Latest Patterns
in Cork Nose and Easy-Wearing Folders. Special Terms to Large Buyer

PHOTOGRAPHIC CAMERAS (Our own Make). Speoialite.— High Class Workmanship and Finish, at Moderate Prices.
Lenses, stands, and all Accessories. Complete Outfits supplied. Photographs of our Specialities furnished to Buyers on application.

]\/[amifactory at £>-4:, Tenby Street North, Birmingham.

%ntulttt Mbmms, ^^ T 4JVn^>

«&

V'^^INTHODUCER OF THE

PARCEL-GILDING

IN ALL DEAD

colours. SfSy/ ^ ^ ^ L ^ L ^ nSs^

^/ wmr.H PRnnuoFR hni rsnin wopk- thf nfarfst x r/y

SPOONS, FORKS, CRUETS,
and ALL PLATED GOODS
RE-POLISHER 'AND
E UP AS

NEW at lowest
possible

WHICH PRODUCES ON GOLD WORK THE NEAREST
\' / * APPROACH TO COLOURED GOLD. *

AND ON ALL KINDS OF METAL & SILVER WORK A SPLENDID SATIN FINISH.

- SPECIAL ATTENTION TO COUNTRY ORDERS."
-^=5^=-- fe

9 & 10. NORTHAMPTON STREET. BIRMINGHAM.

cost.

SILVASTOR

(PATENT).

For preventing Tarnish on

Silver and Electro-plated Goods.

Sold in Bottles at 2s. 6d. each.
A Liberal Discount to WHOLESALE DEALERS.

Wttoh MkauAetoij.

JULES PERRET-MICHELIN

AOEIVTS WANTED.

Proprietor : Mr. T. HOLDEN, 17, Hargreaves St., Burnley.

EPLATURES, near CHAUX-DE-FOJMDS,
S W XTZBEIX> AZTO ,

Pocket Watches for Ladies and Gentlemen, both
Lever and Cylinder.

The quantity manufactured by this house enables goods
to be sold on most advantageous terms. Wholesale.

ONLY SUBSTANTIAL FIEMS DEALT WITH.

>©♦«♦♦♦**©<•©♦

Agents required for the Continent, and for Export to the Colonies*

October 1, 1891.]

THE WATCHMAKER, JEWELER AND SILVERSMITH.

xix

P. & A. GUYE,

77, Farringdon Road,

W LONDON. W

Manufacturers of

KEYLESS & KEY-WINDING

^ Z0<at®Ke;g. 4fc

pftEM

GENERAL AGENTS TO THE AMERICAN

Waltham Watch Company,

W/rLTH/rM BUILDIJMGS,

HOLBORN CIRCUS, LONDON, E.C,

—J
C3

The "EAGLE" Cycles

FITTED WITH CUSHION TYRES,
****^14 : lO : O

LIBERAL

DISCOUNT
FOR CASH.

HOTCHKISS, MAYO & MEEK,

Coventry.

# # # # 3

LIBERAL 5-

DISCOUNT £.

FOR CASH. l"

~<;
r-»

ANT. MEYER'S SUCCESSOR.

STUTTGART.

Sole Special Manufactory of Germany.

Established 1861.

ATCHMAN'S IMPROVED JlME iETECTORS.

THE WATCHMAKER, JEWELER AND SILVERSMITH.

[October 1, 1891

NEWSOME & CO.,

THE BUTTS, COVENTRY.

•■♦♦♦♦♦♦♦•♦♦♦♦♦♦♦♦♦♦♦»■■»♦♦♦♦♦«

WHOLESALE WATCH MANUFACTURERS.

All kinds of English Lever Watches in Stock. Sole
Makers of Patent Safety Wheel for Going Barrels. Keyless
Work a Speaalite, zoith or without the

KEW CERTIFICATE IN "A," " B," OR "C" CLASS.

Highest No. of Marks for Positional Adjustment at Kew. Watch No. 102816, 36-4 out oj possible 40. ILLUSTRATED CATALOGUE ON APPLICATION

ONLY ADDRESS.

NO REPRESENTATIVES.

SilYQr$miIK$ • ai • Dealer^ # in # /Mique},

2 & 3, Livery Street, BIRMINGHAM.

Having commissions from several American Houses, we are prepared to buy, at highest

Cash Prices

Antique Silver Plate of every description.

Old War Medals, dated 1848, or earlier.

Old Stone-set Shoe Bajkles.

Job Lots of Secondhand Watches and Jewellery.

Old Gold and Silver at Refiners' Prices.

Antique Jewellery of all kinds.

Old Bronzes and Carved Ivories.

Enamel Patch Boxes, Salt Cellars, Candlesticks, etc.

Old Watch Movements and Gilt Watch Plates.

Antique Gold and Silver Brooches and Rings.

Old Gold and Silver Coins.

Antique Diamond and Pearl Jewellery.

Old Oil Paintings and Prints of a Sporting Character.
Foreign Gold, Silver, and Paper Money Exchanged.
Old Plated on Copper Wine Coolers, "Venison Dishes.

„ „ Candelabra, Epergnes, etc.

,, „ Tea Pots, Coffee Pots, etc.

„ „ Entree Dishes, Tureens, etc.

Old Miniatures on Ivory or Enamel.
Old China of every description.
Old Collections of Foreign Postage Stamps.
Old Armour and Weapons.
Antique Furniture.

And Curios of every kind.

Cash or Cheque remitted by return of post, and if Prices not satisfactory goods returned.

JSanhors :
BIRMINGHAM & METROPOLITAN BANKING COMPANY, Limited, Bennett's Hill, BIRMINGHAM.

THE UNEQUALLED RESTORER for SILVER and ELECTRO PLATE-

This Unrivalled Preparation will clean and polish as new the most
tarnished articles with the least possible trouble, and with the additional
great advantage, that goods cleaned with it

DO NOT READILY TARNISH AGAIN.

Pleasant to use, non-poisonous, and does not spoil by keeping. The
most flattering testimonials have been received.

Price Is. per Bottle. Sample Bottle free by post, Is. 3d., from

W. C. PERPJNS, Wholesale Jeweller,

19, VYSE STREET, 3IRMINGMAM.

Or London Agent : W. E. TUCKER, 10, Thavies Inn, Holborn Circus.

AGENTS WANTEU IX ALL TOWNS.

EDWARD DAY,

Dealer in Gold and Silver, pure or in any Standard in
Sheet or Wire.

Purchaser of Gold and Silver in Bars, Lemel,

Jewellers' Sweep, Dentists' and Photographers' Waste,

Gilt and Plated Metal and Old Silver Plate.

iKamrfacturcr nf

Hollow Gold, Silver and Metal Beads, Beaded and Fancy Wires,

Galeree Border, Settings, Brooch Ornaments, Chains, Fancy Rollea

Silver and other Metals for Jewellers and Silversmiths.

28, WABSTONE LANE, BIRMINGHAM.

And 50, RUE CHAPON, PARIS.

October 1, 1891.]

THE WATCHMAKER, JEWELER AND SILVERSMITH.

xxi

A. SCOTT,

MANUFACTURING JEWELER AND IMPORTER,

62, SUMMER HILL ROAD,
BIRMINGHAM.

WATCHES.

NICKEL ({( //ill I)', ENAMELLED
KEYLESS %WMJ/ DIAL,

WATCH, WM^ 5/3

WALTHAM WATCHES AT LOWEST PRICES.

English. Going Barrel Levers

Fusee
Silver Watches

Gold ,,

"Watch Protectors

Silver H. M. Alberts, fashion included

Silver H. M. Match Boxes, fashion included

from 38s.
„ 45s.
„ 9s.
,, 19s. 6d.
,, 2s. 3d. per doz.
5s. per oz.
8s. 6d. ,,

Silver H. M. Medals . ,

Silver H. M. Thimbles

9-ct., 15-ct., and 18-ct. H. M. Alberts

9-ct. H. M. Brooches
15-ct. ,, ,,
Silver Brooches

9-ct. H. M. Dress Rings .
15-ct. ,, ,, ,,

9-ct. ,, Signet Rings

9-ct. ,, Solid Cast Signet, Fashion

Gold

22-ct. Weddings

18-ct. ,,

9-ct. ,,

7s. ,,

.. 6s. 6d. ,,

at Lowest Prices.

from 5s. 6d. each.
,, 9s. ,,

,, 6s. doz.

from 2s. 6d. each.
„. 5s. 9d. „
h Ss.

„ 3s. 9d. „
„ 34s. per oz.
,» 83s. 6d. „
„ 72s. 6d. „
,, 39s.

CLOCKS.

8-Day Marble Timepieces 10s. 6d. each.

1-Day Rose and Gilt Gothic or Cottage, Time 2s. ,,

Alarm 2s. 9d. ,,
1-Day Nickel, Time Is. 10d., Alarm .. ..2s. 7d. ,,

BAROMETERS, &c.

Wheel Barometers
Aneroid ,,

Thermometers

from 10s. each.
„ 4s. 6d. ,,
,, 3s, 6d. doz.

No. 1 ALBERTS, Guaranteed White Throughout,

6s. 6d. per dozen.
Second Quality, 4s. 6d. per dozen.

BEST PRICES GIVEN FOR OLD GOLD & SILVER.

WATCH, JEWELRY, AND SPECTACLE REPAIRS RETURNED
SAME DAY AS RECEIVED.

HIGHEST POSSIBLE PRICES GIVEN.

j, yvTc^UDicbtt,

128, Gt. HAMPTON STREET,

HliriGiii.:-,

c}ew&&l&i, §>itve>'ZA'mik'$i, and efau&iicm c£)e,ate-z>,

PURCHASES for CASH at Highest Possible Prices,

SECOND-HAND GOLD and SILVER WATCHES, Jewellery,

Antique Silver, Diamonds, and all kinds of PRECIOUS

STONES. Having large connection for the above, enables

me to give more than other buyers.

PRICE LIST FOR OLD GOLD AND SILVER.

22ct. Wedding Rings
22ct. Watch Cases ...
18ct. do. do.

18ct. Rings

15ct. Gold

12ct. Gold

9ct. Gold

Coloured Gold
Chains (Gold)

Earrings

Platinum

Gold Teeth Plates ...
Sterling Silver
Watch Cases

40/-
25/-

20/-
40/-

76/6

70/-

60/-

61/-

51/-

41/-

31/-

to 50/-

to 30/-

10/-

to 30/-

to 50/'-

3/9

3/4

Country Parcels, Cheque or Postal Order per return.

128, GT. HAMPTON STREET

Bankers— Lloyds' Limited. Colmore Row, Birmingham.

TIB GBIEBKATOD ~

i^can pilfer1 J^Ibert!?

C. T. & S

C. T. &S

Ladies and Gents' Chains in all patterns (guaranteed white metal
throughout) can be obtained of all Wholesale Houses and Merchants.

These Chains are acknowledged by the trade to be in finish,
appearance, and wear, the best substitute for Real Silver in the market
Every Swivel bears the Initials of the Manufacturers,
" C. T. & S.," none others being genuine.

CHARLES BAKER & SON

5®, JSpenoer Street, BIRMINGHAM,

MANUFACTURERS OF

Gilt and Plated Jeuielle^y,

Canadian Single and Treble Gold-cased Ladies' and Gents'

Alberts, Seals, Charms.

ALBERT AND GUARD CHAINS, RINGS,

BROOCHES, PINS, EARRINGS, LOCKETS, Ac.

Also Gold and Silver Mounted Hair Alberts, Pencil Cases,

Bars, Snaps, &c.
Speciality— Gold-cased Gents' and Ladies' Alberts, reliable

in quality, guaranteed to resist the action of any acid.
Representative tor SCOTLAND,

Mr. MUDIE, 109, Argyle Street, GLASGOW

Labels, with C. B. & S.'s Initials and Trade Mark on all&oods, to be had through
all respectable Wholesale Houses.

XXI 1

THE WATCHMAKER, JEWELER AND SILVERSMITH.

[October 1, 1891.

Now Ready, with Frontispiece, Demy 8vo, 140 pages. Price 2s. (post free.)

IiJ<at@

UmaEieq *ie* fll^

Being an Account and Comparison of the Exhibits in the Horological Section of the French International Exhibition, by

J. TRIPPLIN, F.R.A.S., Watch Manufacturer,

Vice-President, British Horological Institute; Juror, International Exhibition, 1S89 ; Chevalier of the legion of Honour, etc. etc

3, HOLBORN VIADUCT, E.C.

SUMMARY OF CONTENTS.

Introduction — Horological Literature — Schools of Horology — Chronometer Makers — Watch Manufacturers — Turret Clock Manufacturers —
Clock Manufacturers — Tools for Watch and Clock Makers — Inventors — Shopkeepers — Watch-case Makers — Timers — Engravers — Gilders
■ — Platform Escapement Makers — Escapement Material Makers — Watch Jewel Makers — Balance-Spring Makers — Mainspring Makers — Pinion
Makers — Wheel and Wheel-Cutter Makers — Hand Makers — Dial Makers — Screw Makers — File Manufacturers — Morocco Watch Case
Makers — Watch Importers — Musical Boxes — Optional Hall-Marking at Geneva — Conclusion.

A. GARSTIN & CO.,

THE INDIANA.— As worn by Her Majesty's
Officers in India.

Patent.

LEATHER GOODS MANUFACTURERS.

PATENTEES OF WATCH WRISTLETS, CLOCK AND "WATCH CASES. &c.

WRISTLETS IN VARIOUS STYLES AND
PRICES.

-.:.,,

muuk

Registered No. 94749.

1, 2, 3, 4, 9, 10, & 11, QUEEN SQUARE, AI.DERSGATE STREET, E.C.

Honourable

Mention

International

Exhibition,
London, 1862.

Established 1815.']

ENGLISH WATCHES.

[Established 1815.

RUSSELL HOUSE, COVENTRY; and LONDON.

REGISTERED TRADE MARKS.

TRAD Evi="'M ARK

" TALBOTT & TALBOTT."

"JOHN FORREST."

n Prize Medal,
* New Zealand
J Exhibition,
J 1882.

ii Prize Medal,

J Coventry,! 867.

TRADE MARK I

J. G, OLIVER,

silti^r Wstrtj fee Jltaker.

English Movements Re-cased as Crystals,
2-oz. Cases, Engine-turned, &c, 17/6.

6, KING SQUARE, LONDON, E.C.

THWAITES BROTHERS,

Church, House, iTransparent, Telegiaph, Steam-gauge,!
and General

25, ST. JOHN STREET ROAD,

CLERKENWELL, LONDON, E.C

CHEAP AND COOD, EFFECTIVE AND ILLUSTRATIVE

TYPE PRINTING.

1000 HANDBILLS, 74 by 5. 3 9; 5,ooo, 8/-i 10,000. 12-/;
Billheads, Note-heads. St.ilcmi-iiis. Memos, t.} by si, 500, J 6; 1,000,

5 6- Circulars, 8\ by 5}, 500, 46; i,°oo, 6 6 ; White or Tinted
Paper; Business Cards, 3| by 2*. 500,4/-; 1,000, 6:6; 4i by 3. S«>,

6 6 • 1,000, 9 6- Casll with all Orders. Proof submitted. Blocks
Furnished Free. Sent Carriage Paid. Hundreds of unsolicited Testi-

' ds from London, the Provinces, and Abroad. CRICK & CO.,

Gold Medal, International Exhibition ; also Society of

Arts Prizes for Clock Dials.
Gold 'and Silver Dials Painted and Named.

111. 'I] MIS In '111 I -Oil (IOI I, Hie llUVIIll.L3,aiiu *m."u*.. _ u«i^.

High Cross Works, Tottenham, London. Established 1880.
SPECIMEN TESTIMONIAL.
" High Street, Wendover, Bucks. January 13th, 1891.
"DEAR SIRS,— The billheads duly received. Pass my expecta-
I tions both as regards style and quality, while the price is indeed very

moderate. ™ -« ,,, . L , ,,

"J. T. BROWN, Watchmaker.

Catalogue of Blocks, crown 4tij., 44 PP , Price 4d-> Post free-

October 1, 1891.]

THE WATCHMAKER, JEWELER AND SILVERSMITH.

xxui .

anil (Bolb

fljttgraiici)

MITCHELL & COOPER,

Heraldic, Monogram, Inscription, and Genera! Engraver

TO THE TRADE ONLY,

58, Great Sutton St., Clerkenwell, London.

Coats of Arms, Ciphers, Crests, Initials, etc., Engraved on Plate, Watches,
Prize Cups, Medals, ete.
The only house in the Trade with a staff of experienced workmen devoted exclusively
to Engraving in all its branches.

ijrrtms
|3t£rreit

unit
ffiarbJji.

ESTA ISHED 10 YEARS

No charge made for Sketches to regular Customers.
Send for our Sheet of Designs, which will he forwarded Free on receipt of Business Card.

AT 1, NORTHAMPTON STREET

MILL 632.

Grass-Bleached Silver Tissue.

Warranted not to tarnish Silver or Plated Goods.

EACH REAM BEARS MILL LABEL

BEWARE OF IMITATIONS.

ROBEET FLETCHER & SON, Stoneclough.

ST^:ikBi SiaMOMO MILLS.
^{ORD & ^pTRIGHT,,

DIAMOND CUTTERS AND P 0LISHER8.

GEM CUTTERS AND LAPIDARIES IN ALL BRANCHES.

Diamond Mills, 116 & 118, Clerkenwell Road, and 18 & 19, Clerkenwell Green,

LONDON.
All Diamonds and other Gems cut on the premises?.

WATCH MANUFACTORY,

Geneva,

SWITZERLAND.

London Agency, 60, Chandos Street, Strand.

LUMBY'S

WEST GROVE WORKS, HALIFAX.

bfi

• —

Kfl

fl
a

<-|

Cfl

■n o

3 ffi
? r

fc=3
<=>

f '

"■ad

SAFES.

MANUFACTURER OF JEWELLE1

and Jewellers' Materials

OF ALL KINDS.

Repairs promptly

attended to.

21 &22,
KEY HILL,

Hockley, BIRMINGHAM.

B U R -CLARY I N S U RAN CE.-lst January 1891.

Insurance Risks.

Busraes « Premise -i — Burglary, incluling theft from windows or counter cases a£
any rim», except by employees, or members of insurei's household. Five
Shillings per cent.

Ditto with precautions satisfat ay to underwriters. Three and Fourpence
per cent. ■ '

Ditto ditto Stocks valued at £20.000 or above. Two and Sixpence per cent.

Manufacturers can insure their goods out on approval separately from the stock
on their premises, on a floating policy, at any shop, warehouse, or premises, at Five
Shillings per cent., but assurers must insure to the full value of the property out on
approval in the aggregate; in such a case the "average clause" of Lloyd's policy
would only apply to th° goods remaining on s oek in their premises.

Poll ies to cover risk of fire and theft can be issued at a slightly lower rate than
the present Fire premium and the above rates added together.

All Risk Policies . .

(not to cover employees' integrity, but to insure against theft during journey by rail, in th,e
street, or losses from burglary or fire).
Travellers ' Stocks, in Great Britain and Ireland. Twenty Shillings per cent-
Ditto in London, between 9 a.m. and 9 p.m. Fifteen Shillings per cent.
Manufacturers and dealers" shocks (all risks) »an be insured time after time at
cheap <r rat s. Underwriters will not give a 12 months' policy at a less premium
than Twenty Shillings per cent, (all risks), but will give a 14 days' policy for One
Shilling per cent., or for a month at Two Shillings per cent., and so on in proportion,
limited to England, Scotland and Wales.

Post and Conveyance.

Registered Post Packages, and Parcels registered Post, Great Britain and Ireland.
Sixpence per cent- - -

Parcels, Great Britain and Ireland. Ninepence per cent. The Continent o
Europe (registered post), Ninepence per cent.; (parcels) One Shilling per
cent.

TOM. M. WILLIAMS,

Dealer in Antique Jewellery and Plate, General Insurance Brolcer, and to effect

Insurances with Lloyd's Underwriters. Auctions attended for from lOt. Si.

125 W ARDOUR STREET. W

XXIV

THE WATCHMAKER, JEWELER AND SILVERSMITH.

[October 1, 1891.

AHRONSBERG BROS.
REPAIRS

AND

SEND FOR PRICE LIST,

37, ALBION STREKT, BIRMINGHAM.

REFORM CYCLES.

Agents wanted. Lists Free

FLlAJVEIjIj & CO.,

COVENTRY.

W, WINKLES,

fflforttfemaker * fairer to % Srabe,
179, WARSTONE LANE, BIRMINGHAM.

Every J-acriptioi of English and Foreign Watches skilfully
and promptly repaired.

SPECIALITIES— Repairs receive immediate
and personal attention.
Price List on Application.

-*• TRY •*-
FRED. J. CARVER,

J, fjwsrott St., %otkh%, gtrmhtgljam,
For Good, Prompt Work at Moderate Charges.

Repairer of every description of Watches, Clocks, and

Jewellery. All tranches thoroughly attended to.

Write for new list of Prices :

F. J. Carver, 1, Prescott St., Hockley, Birmingham.

Agents for Birmingham for the Watchmaker, Jeweller
and Silversmith.

FRANK * MOTT,

(gnural &tatiotwr, ItookbinMng,

an& J&einsagmcg.
WHOLESALE PAPER DEALER.

DEALER IN FANCY GOODS.

57, Vyse Street, Birmingham.

Established 1858.

J, DILGER,

.35, PERCIVAL STREET, CLERKENWELL,
' LONDON.

Watch and Cloci Material Dealer, Tools, Ac

PRICE LIST ON APPLICATION.

57a, Northampton Street,

BIRMINGHAM.

J. FAWSON,

Manufacturing fcint-IUr, dcneral 3$onnttr,

ELECTRO GILDER AND PLATER.

Special Jewellery Repairs returned same day

as received.

MANUFACTURERS
andMERCHANTSwithan

TO TH E AD V AN f AC ES OF J U D • C ! ° US

ADVERTISING

Swill do well to consult
ELL's ADVERTISING

HENRYSRL, 21fiPNrYID

MANAGING DIRECTOR £*%$* l» B « V B, L.

I67&I68.FLEET STREET, LONDON^

^sfRE£ Established
£$TiT^ A QUARTER of a CENTURA

ESTABLISHED 1782.

S. PARKES AND SONS,

WATCH KEY MANUFACTURERS.

SOLE makers op the

Combination Swivel and Watch Key, Patent, and
"Universal" Keys to wind any watch.

I BATH STREET, BIRMINGHAM.

Sheffield & Bimingham Plating Works.

T. SMITH & CO.,

(Established 1850.1 Price List on application.

10, Percival St., Goswell Road, London.

French zinc and other clock cases restored or gilt,

colours equal to Paris. Timepiece dials dead gilt or

matted, and dead silvered, and French silvered. Watch

dials gilt, bleached and painted, 6d. each, or 5s. 6d. per

dozen. Electro-plating and Gilding of every description.

Post-Onlce Orders to be Made Payable, Chief

Office, Goswell Road.

Cheques to be crossed " London and County Bank."

the TRADE .

PAPER -gg&Z

%*L

CHEAPEST
HOUSE
IN THE TRADE

"WORKERS to

DRESSING COMBS,
KNIVES, &c.

Best English -^-^ \

^<< ox

^Z>>^t, ARMSTRONG & SONS,

DORSET ROAD, CLAPHAM ROAD,
LOHDON, S.W.

ALBERT SW1NGEW00D,

^Kanrtfactum of (Bterg gsarriptiott of

JEWELLERY CASES

AND

GLASS SHOW OASES,
81, CAROLINE ST., BIRMINGHAM.

WILLIAM VALE & SONS,

'Patentees and Sole Manufacturers of the

AUTOMATIC FORK,

SUITABLE FOE PICKLES, FISH,
BREAD, PASTRY, &c, &c,

Unett Works, 83, Unett Street, Birmingham.

C. J. DUNLOP,

62, Great Hampton St., BIRMINGHAM
®frjtt|jmafttr aub $U»at«r,

DEALER IN

All hinds of Watch, Clock, & Jewellery Tools, Materials (fee-
Trade Repairs quickly attended to at moderate
charges.
Jewel Holes Fitted, Staffs, Pinions, Watch Dials, and
English Clock Dials restored.

N.B.— PLEASE NOTE CHANGE OF ADDRESS-

MANUFACTURING JEWELLERS
AND DIAMOND MOUNTERS,

20, FREDERICK STREET

BIRMINGHAM,

And 28, EI/V PJLACJE, LONDON, E.CJ.

The "GRIPPER" THIMBLE-

REGISTERED.

Special Features.

The only Thimble made which grips
the needle and prevents it slipping

off into the finger.
Will Wear longer than two or three
of any other pattern.

Shape of holes causes all pressure on strongest part.
Made of Solid Silver, and obtainable of any Wholesale House

15,GT. HAMPTON STREET,

BIRMINGHAM.

Matrtjmatar & Jltatmal BeaUr

IN EVERY DETAIL FOR THE TRADE.

PRICE LIST POST FREE.

" JOSEPH MOOHE,
Bi* (Bngrafor anfc JIU&aUiai,

MANUFACTURER OF

Crosses, gabgts, &c, for gMIiMit, $i(Lt, £toimming,
ana o%r grizts.

PITSFORD ST., YYSE ST., BIRMINGHAM.

"THE PERFECTION OF NEATNESS."

London-made Jewellery Boxes at Birmingham Price
All Nested in Six— Oblong or Square.

From 3/- pep Gross, nested. 12 qualities.

A Sample Nest, showing all qualities.
Post Free on receipt of Trade Card and Six Penny Stamps

F fi KFTTI F Jewellers' Box

i . «, r\l_ l l L.L-, Manufacturer,

PripCoStFL. 9, NEW OXFORD STREET,

And 11, Kingsgate Street, London, W.C.

ESTABLISHED 1840.

WILLIAM MILLWARD,

MANUFACTURER OF

GILT WATCH KEYS AND

PATENT KEY TO WIND ANY WATCH,

MILTON STREET,
Near Summer Lane, BIRMINGHAM.

"Wholesale Agents for Brandreth' Piles, and Bruton's
Paints and Enamels.

H. MANDER *3t CO.,

Dealers in English and Foreign Materials and Tools,

"Wholesale and for Exportation,
75, 8PU5 *:!V1», COVIinTKV.

H. M. & CO. wish specially to c»ll attention to the fact that
being tr.iined as Water i Finishers they are enabled to give the
necessary supervision to all Springs, Chains, and Materials they
off r, and gu .ran tee all their goods to be carefully selected from
the very best makers.

H. M. & Co. have just, added a NEW WING FOR WATCH
JOBBING FOR THE 1MADK. Price Lists on application.
Watches, Clocks, and Jewellery Repaired,

A 11 kinds of Engraving done. Watrhe* and Clocks Repaired,
1'ricc* on application.

OCTOBEK 1, 1891.]

THE WATCHMAKER, JEWELER AND SILVERSMITH.

XXV

BUYERS' GUIDE

ARTISTIC SILVER SUNDRIES.

Pringle Robert & Co. actual Makers (not merelv
Factors) at their Steam Works, 40 and 42, Clerkenwell
Roa<1. Children's Cans,Salt Cells and Spoons, Serviette
Rings,- Apostle and Coffee Spoons, Cups, Goblets,
Mustard Pots and Spoons : Muffineers, Cream Jugs,
Sugar Basins, Tea Spoons, Medals, and Alberts, duty
free. Old Gold and Silver bought In any quantity
for melting at the highest market price. Silver
Goods sent out on approbation.

Priogle Robert & Co. actual Makers (not merely
Factors) at their Steam Works. 40 and 42, Clerkenwell
Road. Children's Cans, Salt Cells and Spoons, Serviette
Rings, Apostle and Coffee Spoons, Cups, Goblets,
Mustard Pots and Spoons : Muffineers, Cream Jugs,
Sugar Basins, Tea Spoons, Medals, and Alberts, duty
free. Old Gold and Silver bought in any quantity
for melting at the highest market price. Silver
Goods sent out on approbation. — See Advt.

BAROIIIITER AND COMPASS
MANUFACTURERS.

Barker Francis & Son 12, Clerkenwell Road, London,
Wholesale Manufacturers of Pocket and Charm
Compasses, Aneriod Barometers, Sun Dials, etc,
Illustrated Trade Catalogue free on application.

ROX MAKER.

Kettle, F. G. 9, New Oxford Street, and 11, Klngsgate
Street, London, W.C. Send for Price List, post free.

CHRONOMETER MANUFACTURERS.

Oram George & Son 19. Wilmington Square, Clerken-
well. Marine and Pocket Chronometers, all kinds
of first-class Keyless Lever Watches, Chronographs,
Repeaters, and Regulators always in stock.

CLOCK MANUFACTURERS.

Smith John & Son, Midland Steam Clock Works, Derby

WilMns John & Co. 11. St. John Street Road, Clerken-
well.

DIAMOND POLISHERS.

Ford & Wright Steam Lapidary Works, Diamond
Cutters and Polishers, Gem Cutters and Lapidaries
in all branches, 18 and 19, Clerkenwell Green and
Clerkenwell Road.

ELECTRO GILDERS AND PLATERS.

Horton J. & Son 80, High Street, Whitechapel, London,
one of the oldest and best Arms for Gilding and
Plating. Established 1834.

Peck & Levett Water and Electro Gilders aad Platers,
16, St. John's Square, Clerkenwell, Lacquerers
Oxydizers and Bronzers. Cheapest house in the
Trade. Price Lists on application.

ENGRAVERS.

Mitchell & Cooper Heraldic, Monogram, Inscription
and Generaf Engravers to the Trade, 58, Great
Sutton Street, Clerkenwell, London. Articles
engraved while customers wait.— See Advt

GOLD AND SILVER DIAL
MANUFACTURERS.

Elston Richard & Sons 24, Myddelton Street London
Dials to Wycherley & Co.'s movements and other
makes in stock. Half covers enamelled. Jobbing
Department : Special attention to Case and Dial
Repairs and Renewals. Established nearly 100 years

GOLD & SILVER REFINERS.

Harrold Chas. & Co. 2 and 3, St. Paul's Square, Bir-
mingham.— See Advt.

The Sheffield Smelting Company Limited Sheffield,

Sell Gold and Silver (refined and alloyed) . Buy all

materials containing Gold and Silver.
Westwood C. & Sons 14, Hall Street, Birmingham.—

aee Advt. ,

Day Edward 28, Warstone Lane, Birmingham.— See

Advt.

GOLDSMITHS, MANUFACTURING.

g, T. & J. Vittoria Street, Birmingham, and
15, Thavies Inn, London, Goldmiths,, Jewellers,
Diamond Mounters, Art Silversmiths. By Special
Appointment to Her Majesty the Queen. Royal
and other Orders and Insignia, Mayoral Chains,
Maces. Corporate Seals, Caskets, Keys, Swords.
Masonic Jewellers.

Ginder Walter J. 47, Frederick Street, Birmingham.—
See Advt.

Lucas Brothers 22, Hylton Street, Birmingham.— See
Advt.

Saunders & Shepherd Bartlett's Passage Buildings,
Holborn Circus, London. — See Advt.

Sydenham, A. 26, Frederick Street, Birmingham.— See

Advt.

GOLD WATCH CASE MAKERS.

W. Neal 27, Craven Street, Coventry.

JET ORNAMENT MANUFACTURER.

Jones E. A. Wholesale Manufacturer of Whitby Jet
Ornaments. A large assortment of the Newest
Patterns always in stock. Export Orders promptly
executed. Persons not having an account open will
avoid delay by forwarding a reference with their
order. Customers' Matchings and Repairs with
despatch. 93, Hatton Garden, London, E.C.

JEWELLERS, MANUFACTURING.

Backes & Strauss Limited 64, Holborn Viaduct,
London. — See Advt.

Goode J. & Sons Regent Place, Birmingham.— See

Advt.

Greenberg I. S. & Co- 22, Vyse Street, Birmingham.—
See Advt.

Jones T. Walter 48-50, Hylton Street, Birmingham.—

See Advt.

Reading N. C. & Co. Warstone Lane, Birmingham.—
See Advt.

Scott A. 62, Summer Hill Road, Birmingham.— See

Advt.

JEWELLERS, WHOLESALE.

Cooper H. J. & Co. Oxford Street, London.— See Advt.
Walter W. H. Newgate Street, London.— See Advt.

JEWELLERS' ROUGE MANU-
FACTURERS.

Brown James & Co. Exeter, Manufacturers of the
/ fineBt qualities, chemlcallypure. Satisfaction guaran-
teed. Packed to suit all buyers. Samples and quota-
tions free. Agents wanted calling upon buyers.

MASONIC JEWELLER.

Kenning G. Little Britain and Alderegate Street,
London.-Sec Advt.

OPTICIANS, WHOLESALE.

Botwright & Grey 13, Spencer Street, Clerkenwel.
London.— See Advt. .

Raphael J. & Co. 13, Oxford Street, London.— See Advt

RING (GOLD) MANUFACTURER.

Hope S. 126, Tyse Street, Birmingham.— See Advt.

SAFE MANUFACTURERS.

Chubb & Sons Limited Queen Victoria Street, Lon
don.

Tann J. Newgate Street, London.

SILVERSMITHS, MANUFACTURING.

Round J. & Son Limited, Tudor Works, Sheffield
and Holborn Circus, London. — See Advt.

Willis Mark & Son Rockingham Street, Sheffield.—
See Advt.

WATCH JORRER.

Ockenden S. Chronometer and Watch Jobber to the
Trade, 155, Goswell Road, London, E.C. Staffs,
Pinions, Cylinders, Conversions, etc. Price List on
application. Established 1887.

WATCH MANUFACTURERS.

Baume & Co. 21, Hatton Garden, London, Coventry,
and Switzerland.— See Advt.

Clemence Freres 11, Southampton Row, London, and

Switzerland. — See Advt.

Guye P. & A. Farringdon Road, London.— See Advt.

Hargreaves J. & Co. Wholesale Watch Manufacture™,
17, Norton Street, London Road, Liverpool. Makers
to Her Majesty the Queen, and H.R.H. the Prince
of Wales.

Newsome & Co. The Butts, Coventry.— See Advt.

Rotherham & Sons Coventry and London.— See Advt.

Stauffer Son & Co. 13, Charterhouse Street, London
and Switzerland. — See Advt.

Usher & Cole 105, St. John Street Road, London,
Makers to the Admiralty. — See Advt.

Waltham Watch Company Holborn Circus, London.—
See Advt.

WATCH MATERIALS.

Grimshaw & Baxter Goswell Road, London.— See

Advt.

Haswell R. & Sons Spencer Street, Clerkenwell,
London. — See Advt.

Swinden & Sons Temple Street, Birmingham.— See

Advt.

WATCH REPAIRERS.

Thiele E. 31, Vyse Street, Birmingham, Watch Re-
. pairer to the Trade. New parts replaced quickly.
Special attention to jewellery repairs. Price List
on application.

Le Freimann and Co., Watchmakers and Bepairerg
to the Trade, 49, Albion Street, Birmingham.
Watches of any make perfectly demagnetised by
a specially made alternating current machine ; no
parts softened or altered ; returned same da/ as
received. Fee 2s,

XXVI

THE WATCHMAKER, JEWELER AND SILVERSMITH.

[October 1, 1891.

MR. FREDK. B. BOX,

%%ud for iljc pisposal of ffilatdjmalurs'
nntr £rtotllcrs' ghtsinrssrs.

SPECIAL FEATURE.— No charge whatever

unless a Sale is ejected, and no charge

to Purchasers.

Valuations made on Moderate Terms.

HIGHEST REFERENCES.

6, THAVIES INN, HOLBORN CIRCUS, E.C.

Mr. Box is instructed to sell the following
Businesses :

i. Watchmaker's and Jeweller's in busy

main thoroughfare in East London. In same
hands 45 years. Rent on lease, £50. Good
house; returnshave been £2,000 a year. Vendor
• retiring. All at valuation about £1,000. An
exceptional opening.

2 Watchmaker's and Jeweller's in lead-
ing thoroughfare in large town in Midlands.
Average returns, £2,500. Stock and fixtures
at valuation about £2,000. Nett profits £400
a. year. Purchase arranged with £1,000.
Death of proprietor sole cause of sale. A well-
known and sound concern.

3. Watchmaker's and Jeweller's in main

road South London. Rent £65 on lease. Good
shop, commodious house, side entrance, and
large garden. Established and in same hands
twelve years. Average returns over £800.
Vendor "is retiring on a competency. About
£400 required. A practical man could make
■.about £300 a year nett.

4. Watchmaker's and Jeweller's in large

•district of Leeds. Rent, with . large house
.-attached, only. £25. Stock and fixtures at
■ valuation about £250. Returns £14 a week.

5. Watchmaker's and Jeweller's in good

.'^strict in Yorkshire. Established twenty
noivears. Rent for shop only, free of taxes, £22
per annum. Stock and fixtures at valuation
.n<*bout.£300. Returns about £6 a week.

6. Watchmaker's and Jeweller's in good

W.C. district. Rent on lease, £60; upper
portion let off more than pays rent. Good
connection trade ; returns about £1,000.
Purchase money £1,000, arranged with £500.

7- Watchmaker's and Jeweller's in

* Brecknockshire. Rent and taxes only £20 a
year; good house. Nett profits last year £180.

• £300 required for everything.

8. Watchmakers and Jeweller's in agood

colliery district in South Wales. Rent for
house and shop about £13. Stock and fixtures
about £70. Average takings for past two years
£250. Satisfactory reasons for selling.

9. High-class Jobbing Business for

sale in Leeds. Average takings £3 a week ;
good prices. Rent and taxes for lock-up shop
only 25s. a month. All for £25 ; a sure living
lor a good practical man.

■further particulars of .-!?.</ of the above and many
others, graiii en application.

INDEX TO ADVEBTISERS.

Page

Aftcan Silver Alberts. . ., .. .. xxi

Ahronsberg, Bros., Birmingham .. .. xxiv

Albo Silver Chains . . . . . . . . xi

Armstrong, J., & Sons, London ... . . xxiv

Armstrong, T. & Brothers, Manchester . . xxvii

Ateliers Hoster de St. Nicolas, Ltd., London xxvii

Backes & Strauss, London
Baker, C, & Son, Birmingham
Barker, F.. & Son, London. .
Baylis, Henry, Birmingham
Baume & Co., London
Berend, O., & Co., London
Birch, John S.. New York
Bloxham, W., Birmingham
Borgzinner Brothers, London
Botwxight & Grey, London

Box, F. B., London

Brown, W. H , Birmingham
Brueton, F., Birmingham

Bryan, C, Whitby

Buyers' Guide

Caldicott, J. W., Birmingham
Carver, F. J., Birmingham
Carley, Geo , & Co., London
Chapman, Son, and Co., London . .
Chopard, Ch., Switzerland ..
Clemence Freres, London
Cooper, H. J., & Co., London
Cotton, Geo., London
Crick & Co., Tottenham

Davis, D. & M. Birmingham
Day, Edward, Birmingham. .
Deakin & Francis, Birmingham

Dilger, J., London

Dunlop, C. J., Birmingham. .

Fattorini & Sons, Bradford
Fawson, J., Birmingham , . . .
Fenwick, A., Birmingham
Flavell & Co , Coventry
Fletcher, B, , & Son, Stoneclough . .
Ford and Wright, London

u
xxi

xxvii

xxiii

iii

xxvii

xxvi

xxiv
xvv

xxiii
xxv

xxi

xxiv

xxx

xxviii

xxx

xiv

xix

xxii

xx
xx

ii
xxiv
xxiv

vi
xxiv

v
xxiv
xxiii
xxi i

xxii

xm
viii
x
xxii
ix
xvi

Garstin, A., & Co., London ... ...

Giuder Bros., Birmingham iv

Goldsmiths' and General Burglary In-
surance Association, Limited, London xvii & xviii

Goode, John, & Sons, Birmingham . . iv

Greenberg, I. S., & Co., Birmingham .. vii

Grimshaw & Baxter, London . . . . iii

Gripper Thimble . . . . . . . . xxiv

Guye, P. & A., London xix

Harris, Phillip, & Co., Birmingham .. v

Harrison and Co., Dublin .. .. .. xx

Harrold, C, & Co , Birmingham .. .. xi

Harvey, G. W., & Co., Birmingham
Haswell, R., & Sons, London
Hewitt, C. T., & Son, Coventry . .

Hill, C. J., Coventry

Hirst, A. & S., Oldham

Holden, T., Burnley ..

Hope, Birmingham

Hotchkiss, Mayo & Meek, Coventry

Jeannot, Paul, London
Jones, T. Walter, Birmingham
Joseph, B. H., & Co,, Birmingham

Kettle, F. G., London
King & Sons, London
Koch & Co., London
Kullberg, V., London

Lamb, H. T., London
Langilale, I., Whitby
Lumby, Halifax

Mander, H., & Co., Coventry
Malhesoi., Leith .. .. ..

Meyer, Anton, Stuttgart
Mill ward, W., Birmingham..
Mitchell & Cooper, London
Moore, Joseph, B.rniiughim
Mott, F., Birmingham .,

Newsome & Co., Coventry
Oliver, J. G., Loudon

Parkes, S., & Sons, Birmingham
Perret-Michelin, J., Switzerland
Perrms, W. C, Birmingham
Pringle, Robert, & Co., London
riucknett, C. J., & Co., London

xxiv

xxiv
viii
xiii

xx ix

xxvii

xxiii

xxiv
xxiv
xix
xxiv
xxiii
xxiv
xxiv

xxii

xxiv

xvi

xiii

Raphael, J., & Co., London

Reading, N. C, & Co., Birmingham
Robbius & Appleton, London

Rose, C. E . Bolton

Rotherham & Sons, Coventry
Round, John, & Son, Sheffield
Round, B. J., Birmingham

Saunders & Shepherd, London
Scott, A., Birmingham
Sell, H., Lonaon
Siegele and Bennett, London

Smith, T., & Co., London

Spencer, J , Birmingham
Starling, J. H., Birmingham
Stauffer, Son, & Co., London

Sturtevant, T. T., London

Swinden & Sons, Birmingham
Swingewood, A., Birmingham
Sydenham, A., Birmingham

Taylor, J. & H., Birmingham

Thomason, John, & Nephews, Birmingham

Thwaites Bros, , London

Tripplin, J., London

' ' Triumph ' ' Lathe . .

Usher & Cole, London

Vale, Wm. & Sons, Birmingham

Vaughton, Birmingham

Vacheron & Constantin, Geneva and London

Walker, S., Liverpool

Walter, W. H., London

Weill & Co., London

Westwood, C, & Sons, Birmingham
Whitton, T. M., and Sons, London
Wilkins, J., and Co., London
Williams, T.M., London ..
Willis, Mark, and Son, Sheffield
Winkles, W., Birmingham

JEWELLER'S ASSISTANT, first-class refer-
ences, 10 years' experience, SEEKS SITUA-
TION to assist at counter and bench. — H.
Dakin, Chester Place, Norwich.

xi
xix
xix
xxx
xii
xvi

xxix

XXI

xxiv
xviii
xxiv
xv
xxii

xvi

xxii

xxiii

xvi

xxiv

xxiii

xiv

xxix

iii

xxiii

FOR SALE.

TO JEWELLERS, WATCHMAKERS, AND
OTHERS.

UNDER A DEED OP ASSIGNMENT.

Re JAMES HENRY NINNES, of 20, Mount
Pleasant, Tunbridge Wells, Watchmaker and
Jeweller.

rnO BE SOLD by TENDER, the whole of the
J_ STOCK-IN-TRADE of the above named,
amounting at cost prices to £1,938 10s. 6d. It
may be viewed on the Debtor's premises from
Wednesday, the 30th inst., to Friday, the 2nd
October, inclusive, from 10 a.m. to 5 p.m.

All Tenders must be made under cover, and
marked, "Tender, re J. H. Ninnes," and de-
livered to the Trustee, Mr. G. Graham Popple-
ton, Chartered Accountant, at the offices of the
Wholesale Traders' Association, 26, Corporation
Street, Birmingham, by 9 a.m. on Monday, the
5th prox.

Tenders will be opened at the Trustee's Bir-
mingham offices on Monday, the 5th prox., at
3.30 o'clock precisely. Forms may be had,
together with any further information, from
Messrs. Poppleton and Appleby, Chartered
Accountants, 26, Corporation Street, Birming-
ham, or 11 and 13, John William Street, Hud-
dersfield.

AN OLD-ESTABLISHED JEWELLERY
BUSINESS in the Midland Counties for
SALE, doing an increasing and profitable trade.
Stock at valuation. Book debts optional. Lease
granted at moderate rental. — For particulars
apply to Messrs. J. Dix Lewis, (Jaesar and Co.,
Chartered Accountants, 85, Gresham Street,
London, or to Messrs. E. T. Peirson and Son,
Chartered Accountants, Coventry.

JEWELLERS' FINE BOXWOOD DUST,
M Wholesale and Retail. — Lacy Evans, 7, Red
Lion Court, London, E.C. (W. 226.)

October 1, 1891.]

THE WATCHMAKER, JEWELER AND SILVERSMITH.

NEW PATTERNS.

We beg to call

attention to the above

They are strong and

reliable,
the Pallets and Scape

Wheel are solid,

and the Bell rings very

much longer than

the ordinary alarms-

.; .J .. ■:;l,i;,i.i ■■,■' y ili.i,Hi i

Well-finished Cases.
WHOLESALE ONLY FROM

T. AR]

k & Brothers.

TURN OUT.

Established 1825.

STREET

ALL RIGHT.

MANOHB8TEE.

The Largest Importers of Clocks in the Kingdom. Price Lists and Catalogues sent on receipt of Business Card.

ESTABLISHED 1848.

WATCH MANUFACTURER.

*¥■

A LARGE ASSORTMENT
OF ENGLISH AND GENEVA
BATCHES IN STOCK.

English
and Foreign
Watch Repairs of
every Description by
Experienced Workmen or
the premises.

5, ST. JOHN SQUARE,
CLERKENWEIL, LONDON.

Price Lists on Appu— ation.

JOHN S. BIRCH <Sc CO.,

79 & 81, Washington Street, Brooklyn, New York, U.S.A.

'NO. 2. flayi ijj ^iifffM^h ■'-< : ~;~£-m W % s|

No. 20.

And Not Wear Out.

Made in thirty-seven
styles. Sold by the

1 trade general!'-'.
Circulars on ap-
plication.

Merchants and the Wholesale Trade only supplied by

THE AMERICAN TRADING CO., 99, Fenchurch Street, LondoD, E.C.,

who have the sole Sale of our Goods in Great Britain.

FRANCIS BARKER & SON,

Mitt, CLERKENWELL ROAD, LONDON, EX.

New
Charm
Sun

a^ Manufacturers for the Trade and

Compass Export of High Class Charm and Pocket
combined . Aneroide, Barometers, Go"d and Silver
Charm Compasses, Calendars, Thermo-
meters and Measuring Instruments, and
other Scientific Novelties for Watch
Chain.

Makers of Drawing and Surveying Instrume
Pocket Compasses, Sextants, etc. ■

Compas es Supplied for Mounting to Jewellers, &c.

\ts,

Gold from 20/- each.
B -ass. Pocket Size, 3/6 ech .

Illustrated and fiescriptive Catalogues post free to any part j of
the World on amplication.

pLIEI$ hotter; de

p. MKlOL^,

Limited

Carriage
Clocks,

REPEATERS, DRUM CLOCKS.

61, Cannon St., LONDON, E.C.

XXVU1

THE WATCHMAKER, JEWELER AND SILVERSMITH.

[October 1, 1891.

HOVELTIES /■"' grmn^mM^, «%.

ROYAL LEMON SQUEEZER.

THE COMBINATION SPIRIT
CIGAR, 0 GAME CABINET.'

In rich dark Oak, with handsome

Nickel Mounts.
Net Prices from £3 to £U 14s. Od.

HANDSOME CUT-CLASS
PERFUME BOTTLES,

With Hall-marked chased

Silver Caps.

From 6/6 to £5 10s. Od.

"TANTALUS" SPIRIT
FRAME,

In rich dark Oak, with hand-
some Nickel Mounts.
Prices from 23/6 to J10 10s. Od.

CHAPMAN, SON, & CO., flbanufactuvem

2, CHARTERHOUSE BUILDINGS, ALDERSGATE, LONDON, E.C.

(Two minutes' walk from Atdersgate Street Station).

Continental Address, 39, Bleich-Strasse, Pforzheim

TelegrapMc Address, " Jewelry, London."

iectele

ennett,f

Diamond
Work.

gold.

Silver.
Mosaic.
Onyx.

Moonstone.

Enamel.

Renaissance

Watch

Bracelets

in Gold and

Silver.

Manufacturers and Importers of British and Foreign Jewelry,

11, CHARTERHOUSE STREET, LONDON, E.G.

SOLE LICENSEES FOR GREAT BRITAIN, IRELAND, AND COLONIES

FOR THE

New Patent "Security Pin,"

<Qt> ( PATENT No. 17,437. )

FOR BROOCHES AND SCARF PINS."

Goal.

Itself."

Cannot be lost in wear, as \hook fixes itself into the material.
Not a Scarf Pin or Brooch of any value should remain without this

fastening-. Neater and far stronger than the old style,
GrOIiD ^SlNZ) SILVJjK OlffLY.

S. & B. HAVE THE FINEST STOCK OF BEST CLASS CONTINENTAL JEWELRY
IN THE KINGDOM, MOSTLY THEIR OWN PRODUCTION.

Barnet.
Amber.
Filigree
Daisies.

Oxyd. Silver
and Bold.

But Silver.

Finest Paste
Brooches,

Buckles,
Necklets.

October 1, 1891.]

THE WATCHMAKER, JEWELER AND SILVERSMITH.

XXIX

CHARU£S * WESTWaOD * AND * 80NS,

GOLD & SILVER REFINERS,

14, HALL STREET, BIEMINGHAM,

Dealers in JEWELLERS' REQUISITES, and in Fine and Alloyed Gold and Silver, Sheets, Wires, Stampings, Beads,
Solders, »fec. ; also Alloys, Refined Copper, &c. ; Coloured and Bright Gold Beads, and also in Silver

-BANGLE, COIL AND BELCHER BRACELETS DRAWN OR SPUN.-
Bars, &c, containing Gold and Silver, assayed the same day.

PHOTOGRAPHERS' WASTE ANO JEWJE Lf.EKS' AND DENTISTS' SWEEP PURCHASED AT FULL VALVE.

The Patent "SELF-CLOSING" Bracelet.

WILL FIT WRIST OF ANY SIZE. MOST COMFORTABLE IN WEAR.

IN WHATEVER POSITION PLACED ON ARM OR WRIST NEVER SLIPS.

CANNOT BE LOST, AS THERE IS NO SNAP TO COME UNFASTENED.

VARIETY OF PATTERNS IN 9 & 15-CARAT GOLD. ILLUSTRATED TRADE PRICE LISTS UPON APPLICATION.

Saunders & Shepherd, sole licencees for great Britain & Australasia.

The Patent

"One Piece" Studs &cUfr Buttons

Actual Size
'Collar- Stud.

SPECIAL advantages:

1. UNBREAKABLE.

2. STRUCK FROM SINGLE DISC OF

METAL, THEREFORE NO SOLDER
USED.

3. SLIPPED INTO BUTTON

HOLE WITH PERFECT
EASE.

MADE IN 9, 15 i 18 CARAT GOLD

AND

STERLING SILVER.

Actual Size
"Shirt- Stuc.

Has almost entirely superseded the old kited —

which is made of several parts soldered

together.

if from ANY CAUSE a stud

SHOULD GET DAMAGED, A NEW

ONE WILL BE GIVEN IN

EXCHANGE.

Sole Licencees for Great Britain ;

fy _*. ENLARGtu view \Jr VL>i_LMn =5 I U u

Saunders & Shepherd, 'birtletts psssage buildings, holborn circus,

LONDON, E.C.

ENLARGED VIEW OF COLLAR STUD

BSRTLETT'S PSSSli

NOTICE.— Immediate proceedings will be taken against anyone infringing either of the above patents

#aker to % ^omiraltrj arto * \m KULLBERG * *&' ®0uncil oi ^Mi to*****-
CHRONOMETER AND WATCH MANUFACTURER,

EVERY DESCRIPTION OF HIGH-CLASS KEYLESS AND ORDINARY WATCHES.

105, LIVERPOOL ROAD, LONDON, N.

AWARDED SEVEN GOLD MEDALS AND FOUR DIPLOMAS OF HONOUR (HIGHEST AWARDS), and

The FIRST PRIZE, with the: FREEDOM OF THE Cl,0( KHAKKKV COMPANY o< the CITY OF I.OJfUOJI, TRIAL, ISSX, and
the SECOND PRIZE for the FINEST CHRONOMETER ever tested at the ROYAL, ORSERVATOKY, 18S2.

Chronometers with Mr. Ktjli/berg's new Balances and other improvements have stood the First or Second FOURTEEN"

entered for competitive trial, they obtained, at the. Government Observatory at Sydney, higher marks than those of

any other Exhibitor.

THE WATCHMAKER, JEWELER AND SILVERSMITH.

[October 1, 1891.

I.STAUI.1SIU.O 1SOO.

PARIS 1889.

rfieimcfc

SCJ

30, ELY PLACE, LONDON, E.C.,
MANUFACTURERS OF

Chronometers, Chronographs, Repeaters,

Participants In the Grand

P^eTwr/edVt^eTwTs AND OTHER COMPLICATED WATCHES,

Collective Exhibits.

AS WELL AS VARIOUS GRADES OF

Awarded Silver Medal.

LAIN l^ATCHCES, KE1TI.ESS ^±TSTX> lEJESYS
Factories at CHAUX-DE-PONDS and LES BOIS, SWITZERLAND.

Toll 'graph ic Address :-" LES-UOIS, LONDON."

Patentees of Chronograph, Chronometer, Calendar, Memento, Alarm, and Album Watches. Specialities in Bijou and Bracelet Watches.

ESTABLISHED OVER HALF A CENTURY.

30, Ehj Place, LONDON, e.c,

Manufacturers of HIGH-CLASS CHRONOMETERS and KEYLESS WATCHES.

Speciality: The DOUBLE ROLLER ADJUSTED LEVER

Presentation Watches, with and without Kew A Certificate.

Minute Repeaters, Clock Watches, Perpetual Calendars, and every kind of Complicated "Watch in Stock.

LADIES11 MINI1TURE WATCHES,

Telegraphic Afldrcss : "CAWMT. 10X003'."

QOUEflJl^Y ar>d

INTERCHANGEABLE CASES,

EXTRA DURABLE

AND DUST PROOF.

ALL GRADES

ENGLISH

LEVER WATCHES,

KEYLESS

AND

NON-KEYLESS.

Ihtstratefc (IvApk^nts anil f rir* lists sttpplki tn % ffrato.

ted and Published by Hktwood A Company. Ld., 68, Fleet Street, London, E.C.

Vol. XVII. No. 7. J

JANUARY, 1892.

REGISTERED AS A NEWSPAPER FOR FOREIGN TRANSMISSION.]

r Subscription ( Pos3

L5S. per Annum, i Frub

Single Copies, 6d.

Edited by W. J. LEWIS "ABBOTT. F.G.S.

68, FLEET STREET, LONDUJN.

THE WATCHMAKER, JEWELER AND SILVERSMITH.

[January 1, 1892.

(Establish 1874. Mill WIIrErlS &

Trade M. W. & S * .S. Mark

MANUFACTURERS OF SILVER AND ELECTRO-SILVER PLATED GOODS OF EVERY DESCRIPTION.

Cruet, Liquor

and Breakfast Frames,

Tea and Coffee Services,

Waiters, Cups, and

Biscuit Boxes.

Mounted Crown Derby,

Spode and Wedgewood Ware,

&c.

Spoons and Forks, Fish
Eaters, Desserts, &c.

A Choice Selection always in Stock. Repairs and Re-plating promptly attended to at Moderate Charges. Goods sent on Approval.
EXCHANGE WORKS, ROCKINGHAM STREET, SHEFFIELD.

PEARLS.
RUBIES. .
EMERALDS.
SAPPHIRES.

AND ALL OTHER

PRECIOUS STONES,

ALL KINDS

STONES RE-CUT

CUT TO MATCH.

64 Holborn YlADDCT, LONDON.

J. RAPHAEL

— AUD CO.—

Iltanufathtrincr

OPTICI/rNS

OXFORD STREET,

benden, \ft/.

^ THE House for every conceivable kind of Optical Goods.

HERE IS ABSOLUTELY THE LARGEST STOCK OF SPECTACLES & FOLDERS IN ENGLAND.

January 1, 1892.

THE WATCHMAKER, JEWELER AND SILVERSMITH.

, Gol.l Mfdal.

DIPLOMA :

MELBOURNE

1880-81.

BAUME&CO.

(ESTABLISHED 1834.)

21, HATTON GARDEN, LONDON ;

SWITZERLAND AND COVENTRY.

Watch Manufacturers.

DIPLOMA :

MELBOURNE
1880-81.

London, 1862 .

Berne, 1857.

Every description of Ordinary, pine, and Complicated matches, Repeaters,

Chronographs, etc.

English, and Siviss Chronometers.

ENGLISH AND SWISS Watches with Kew A Certificates.

AfeSf*

DNGIHES IEYERS,

MADE ON THE GAUGED AND INTERCHANGEABLE PRINCIPLE.
All parts of Movements supplied entirely finished.

LONGINES CHRONOGRAPHS, WITH
MINUTE RECKONERS.

The Longines Levers were awarded the
GRAND PRIX (Highest possible award), at
the Paris Exhibition, 1889.

BAUME & Co., 21, Hatton Garden, London.

GRIMSHAW & BAXTER,

33 & 35, GOSWELL ROAD, LONDON, E.C.

THE BEST AXD CHEAPEST HOUSE IN- THE TRADE FOR

ENGLISH AND FOREIGN CLOCKS, WATCHES, TOOLS, AND WATCH GLASSES

MATERIALS OF EVERY DESCRIPTION.
SEND FOR PRICE L.STS (TRADE ONLY).

SOLE WHOLESALE AGENTS FOR

EZRA KELLEY'S CHRONOMETER WATCH & CLOCK OILS

WHOLESALE AND FOR EXPORTATION.

IMPORTANT NOTICE TO THE TRADE.

BBONZ'BS, CLOCKS, CS-A.iyiDIEJ^AJBIEfc-A.SS, J3IAI-S, £sc.

Eepaired. parts made, and renovated equal to new ; all work done in the same process as in Paris. Repairs in general, Bronzing, Gilding
Plating. Brassing, and Lacquering in all its branches. Estimates submitted for Town and Country Stock Work. Carriage Clocks polished

and matt gilt.

CHEAPEST HOUSE IN THE TRADE FOR RENOVATING ENGLISH AND FRENCH DIALS.
STATUARY AND INSCRIPTIONS RENOVATED BY CONTRACT.

Church Lights, Gaseliers, Electric and Lamp Fitting Brackets, Book Rests, Communion Plate, &C, re-lacquered, gilt, or plated. Experienced

men sent for removing and fixing same. Composition Bronzes can be made by our Colours to look equal to real Works of Art. The New French

Florentine, Barbedienne, Egyptian Green, Vert Antique, and Empire Bronzes. Specialities.

BUHL WORK REPAIRED AND RESTORED EQUAL TO NEW.

ESTABLISHED LONDON AND PARIS, 1873.

11, ST. JOHN STREET ROAD, CLERKENWELL, LONDON.

THE WATCHMAKER, J KWELER AND SILVERSMITH.

[January 1, 1892.

GINDER BROS

MANUFACTURING JEWELERS & MERCHANTS,
47, FREDERICK STREET, BIRMINGHAM,

ASK FOR CATALOGUE. ALSO APPRO. PARCEL,
WE SOLICIT YOUR 11EPAIKS, AND GUARANTEE SATISFACTION.

PRECIOUS STONE DEALERS & BUYERS of OLD GOLD & SILVER. Three Highest Class Selected Stocks.

EEPEESENTATIVES CALL QUARTERLY.

Popular Prices to meet Requirements of Keenest Purchasers.

SPECIALTY— Cr^JVK

Telegraphic Address-" SETTERS," BIRMINGHAM.

ESTABLISHED 1871.

Telephone No. 4085.

Telegraphic Address — " Koritshon, London''

ID. SORIT8CHORBB,

23, HATTON GARDEN, LONDON, E.C.,
MANUFACTURER OF PRECIOUS SCALES

ESPECIALLY

ifillli Will, fflSgj, §6flflf§, IlifEi, lllllfl.

Diamond Pocket Books, Sieves, Pearl and Diamond Measures;

also all sorts of

DIAMOND PAPERS AND BOXES AND EVERY REQUISITE FOR
: DIAMOND MERCHANTS. — -—

Diamond Scales Repaired and Re-adjusted at the shortest notice.
MANUFACTURERS OF BRIGHT AND COLOURED

GOLD CHAINS, for Home and Shipping Trades.
CtJ^B B^RCEHETS flJltD BROOCHES,

^*als, ^en&ants, antr ^f^fcala

IN GREAT VARIETY.
Telegraphic Address: "QUALITY, ^^«^^J^^\kTEk JflM^l^-— ^ J^dbttts,

BIRMINGHAM." — ^Td^%M \ UP JB* ^^^'"fleeklets 8t Hadies' Alberts

OF NEW AND ATTRACTIVE DESIGNS ALWAYS IN STOCK.

jlflliliHmRf^ED l^EEPEf* t^IfiGS

IN EVERY VARIETY AND QUALITY.

ILLUSTRATED CATALOGUES AND PRICE LISTS ON APPLICATION.

11SMT FLlCEj BIRMINGHAM.

London Address: 60, HATTON GARDEN.

THE

CASTLE"
LINK.

PATENTED.

REG-

THE "CASTLE" LINK

IS INSTANTLY INSERTED OR REMOVED.
IS ENTIRELY SELF-ADJUSTING.
DOES NOT CREASE THE CUFF.
DOES NOT WEAR THE BUTTON HOLE.
HAS NO SPRINGS OR COMPLICATED 4^

PARTS TO GET OUT OF ORDER.

T. WALTER JONES,

fJatetttee att&
j^ole IHatrafacturer,
48-5U, HYLTON STREET, BIRMINGHAM.

Telegraphic Address ; " STUDS, BIRMINGHAM." ONLY WHOLESALE HOUSES SUPPLIED.

READY FOR INSERTING IN CUFF

IN CUFF.

MADE IN

GOLD, SILVER,

GOLD PLATE, PEARL,

GOLD CASED,
NICKEL SILVER, &c.

January 1, 1802.1

THE WATCHMAKER, JEWELER AND SILVERSMITH.

Messrs. STAUFFEft, SON & CO.

Have just passed at the Kew Observatory a Gold Tourbillon Chronometer, -which attained
the extraordinary number of 91*6 marks, thus BEATING ALL RECORDS. For positional
adjustment it gained 39'3 marks out of a possible 40. This is the same Chronometer which
obtained the FIRST PRIZE AND HONORS for its marvellous results at the Neuchatel
Observatory. The watch referred to was made throughout at their own factory : Chaux-de-
fonds, Switzerland.

KEW OBSERVATORY REPORTS:

September 2, 1891.

' 9entlemen, — %fc to the present date your Sfourbillon Chronometer^
13686H, has obtained the HIGHEST MARKS RECORDED HERE.

&ours truly,

"G* M* Whipple-'

Stauffer, Son & Co.,

13, CHARTERHOUSE STREET, Holborn, LONDON,

And CHAUX-DE-FONDS, SWITZERLAND.

ORDINARY, FINE, AND COMPLICATED WATCHES.

KLOSE & ZEUNER,

FREIBURG, SILESIA, GERMANY.

SPECIA.X.ITY :-

SPRING and WEIGHT REGULATORS.

House and Second Clocks,
Pendules (Grandfather Clocks).

Sami>le Cards and Price Lists sent Free and
Post Paid.

SOGIETE CO-OPERATIVE D'HORLOGERIE,

PONTENET ( Switzerland) .

MANUFACTORY OF UNFINISHED MOVEMENTS
FOR KEYLESS WATCHES.

SPECIALTY OF 10—15 LINES CYLINDER, AND 12—15 LINES

LEVEE.

NEW STYLE

" GLASSHTJTTE," 14 and 15
AND LEVER.

LINES CYLINDER

MANUFACTURER OF

Badges of Every Description.
DIE & SEAL ENGRAYING.

Rings, etc., for Sealing.

CAP A 2 and INITIAL
PUNCHES.

(KljErks, labels, ztt.

A £ E MW ' IPK ( Tuienty-one years \

t\ , I UllVrlUn \withMr.J.M00REJ

16, flUGOSTfl STREET, Bl^miriGHACQ.

PERFECT QUALITY GUARANTEED. GREATLY REDUCED PRICES.

Do not be mislead by Watch Manufacturers who, ^OHTENJTi

under the name of " Mouveinents Pontenet," <T^Sf,y^O'

place goods upon the market which are not fur- ^S^L^S-^
nished with the genuine Pontenet Unfinished >>

Movements. Marque deposee

Since the commencement of this year all our

manufactures bear the fo^owing mark — — ^s*« —

FRANCIS BARKER & SON,

A 12, CLERKENWELL ROAD, LONDON, E.G.

Charm Measuring
Instrument.

18ct.GOLD 25s. each

15ct. ,, 20s. ,,
lOcfc. ., 13s. 6d. „
SILVER 4s. „
NICKEL or GILT

2s. 6d. each.

)

Manufacturers for the Trade and Export
of High-Class Charm and Pocket Aneroid
Barometers, Gold and Silver Charm Com-
passes, Calendars, Thermometers and
Measuring Instruments, and other Scien-
tific Novelties for Watch Chain. Cheap
Line of Silver Charm Compasses from 10s.
doz. Also Makers of Drawing and Sur-
veying Instruments, Pocket Compasses,
Sextants, Opera and Marine Glasses and
Telescopes.

Compasses Supplied for Mounting to Jewelers, &c.

ILLUSTRATED AND DESCRIPTIVE CATALOGUES POST FREE TO
ANY PART OF THE WORLD ON APPLICATION,

THE WATCHMAKER, JEWELER AND SILVERSMITH.

[January 1, 1892.

BOTWRIGHT

AND

(Late A. H. BOTWRIGHT.)

Manufacturing

1=3

(Established 1865.)

Opticians,

FOR EXPORTATION ONLY.

WHOLESALE AND
MAKERS OF EVERY DESCRIPTION OF SPECTACLES AND FOLDERS, IN STEEL, SHELL, GOLD, SILVER AND HORN ; SOLID, NICKEL, GERMAN SILVER, &c, AT THE LOWEST POSSIBLE PRICES.

MASON'S IMPROVED OPTOMETER, REGISTERED'. Price 17/6 each, net. Manufactured only by ourselves.

This instrument, while saving time and trouble in testing accurately, denotes the proper strength glasses required by persons suffering from
long, short, or old sight, aud is admitted by Scientists to be one of the best instruments in use for measuring the loss of power of the eye. Full

and complete instructions with each.
REPAIRS, Or EVERY DESCRIPTION, IN EVERV CASE WE EXECUTE AND SEND BACK BY RETURN POST.

Oculists' and Hospital Prescriptions prepared. Sphero Cylinders and Prisms worked to order, and in ever" case by return mail.

r WE INVITE INSPtCTION OF OUR LARGE STOCK. <m> ^*S"«i-^ J ^05^.,

FIELD GLASSES

{In varie'y of 1'attems.)

READING GLASSES

{All Sizes.)

TELESCOPES

(All Sizes.)

EXTRA POWER FIELD
GLASSES.

»mil|lll.|INI|lll|Ulllllill|llll||l|ll||ll|l|IH|l|llll|Mll|IIM|llll|MMIIMII|IMI|lll>|"-^

Best English Clinical Thermometers, with or without Kew Certificates, 22s. per dozen ; Certificates, 13s. per dozen extra.

135 SPENCER ST., CLER&ENWELL, LONDON.

Established 1819.

VAUui UMj) fSIF^MIJMGHAM.

MEDALS, BADGES, MASONIC JEWELS, flg

Challenge Shields, Checks, Tokens,
Presentation Trowels and Keys, Majors' Chains, &c.

FATTORINI & SONS'

NEW PATENT

ECTRICALARDM

jSt. John's "V&forks,
92, CLERKENWELL ROAD,

~§oniion, (B.C.

T. T. STURTEYANT,

(Sold, Wilbur anb Jtiriul

$lati>r,
Electro-Plate Manufacturer.

SEND FOR

PRICE LIST
FOR

R6 platirig jSpootis, porks, Jea 8; 6offee fSerViees, ^alv'ers,
Bisries S; Sobers, Gruet p>+ar\ds, \®., 3(6.

The only Electric Alarum in the
world that can be carried from
room to room without derange
ment. There is no fixing of / ^*
wires, and it can be placed / ^^
anywhere like an ordinary / ^*
Carriage Clock. Will not / ^
stop ringing until you / N^^
get up and turn off / n^ ^
the switch.

RETAIL PRICE /S>/ The T,radte suPPlied
«n/ / m ^ ' at Lowest

Dry Battery

can be sent

to any part / > "^

of th

World.

The

Cheapest

Wholesale

House in the

Country for

High-class

WHLTHflin
WATCHES.

'/N/ Finest Vienna Regulators

•""^j / The Best in the Trade, delivered Car-
wf \ T/ riage Free from the factory direct.
>t™y New Designs in Marble, Onyx, and

other Clocks.

SJSSiS BRADFORD.

January 1, 1892.]

THE WATCIIMAKEK, JEWELER AND SILVERSMITH.

A, SCOTT,

MANUFACTURING JEWELER AND IMFORTER,

62, SUMMER HILL ROAD,
BIRMINGHAM.

WATCHES.

NICKEL [ff g$m, II] ENAMELLED
KEYLESS \WwJ/ DIAL,

WATCH, ^HK 5/3 '

WALTHAM WATCHES AT LOWEST PRICES,

English. Going Barrel Levers .. from 38s.

,, Fusee „ . . ,, 45s.

Silver Watches .
Gold ,,

Watch Protectors
Silver H. M. Alberts, fashion included

9s.
19s.' 6d.

2s. 3d. per doz.
5s. per oz.

Silver H. M. Match Boxes, fashion included 8s. 6d.

Silver H. M. Medals . .
Silver H. M. Tnimbles
9-ct., 15-ct., and 18-ct. li

9-ct. H. M. Brooches
15-ct. ,, ,,

Silver Brooches..

9-ct. H. M. Dress Rings
15-ct. ,, ,, ,,

9-ct. ,, Signet Rings

9-ct. ,, Solid Cast Signet, Fashion

Gold

22-ct. Weddings

18-ct. ,,

9-ct. ,,

7s.

6s. 6d. ,,

M. Alberts at Lowest Prices.
. . from 5s. 6d. each.
,, 9s.

,, 6s. doz.
. . from 2s. 6d. each.
,, 5s. 9d. „

2s.
, 3s. 9d. „
, 34s. per oz.
, 83s. 6d. ,,
, 72s. 6d. ,,
i 39s.

CLOCKS.

8-Day Marble Timepieces 10s. 6d. each.

1-Day Rose and Gilt Gothic or Cottage, Time 2s. ,,

Alarm 2s. 9d. ,,
1-Day Nickel, Time Is. 10d., Alarm .. . . 2s. 7d. ,,

BAROMETERS, Sec.

Wheel Barometers
Aneroid ,,

Thermometers

from 10s. each.
,< 4s. 6d. ,,
,, 3s. 6d. doz.

No. 1 ALBERTS, Guaranteed White Throughout,

6s. 6d. per dozen.
Second Quality, 4s. 6d. per dozen.

BEST PRICES GIVEN FOR OLD GOLD & SILVER.

WATCH, JEWELRY, /.ND SPECTACLE REPAIRS RETURNED

SAME DAY AS RECEIVED.

v u n pbici! ii8i oar afplicahok

AHRONSBERG BROS.,

Wholesale Jewelers&Diamond Mounters

New Designs in Silver Name Brooches.

No. 2,573.

15s. Doz.

Diamond and Gem Rings, Bracelets, Half Sets,
Studs, &c, at lowest prices.

No. 1,575.

16s. 6d. Doz.

(Ufte ^o"66irtg ^-Tou^e of S&irmiqgfiam

FOE EEPAIES OF EVEEY DESCRIPTION.

No. 3,094. «

10s. 6d. Doz.

37, ALBION ST., BIRMINGHAM

NOTICE TO MERCHANTS, DEALERS,
WATCHMAKERS & JEWELLERS.

Having- heard many complaints about Inde-
structible Brooch Pins, which, arise through in-
ferior copies of the original that are in the
market, I have been compelled to get a NEW
TRADE MARK registered in connection with the
word " Superb," and a combination of crosses.

I beg to inform the Trade that all genuine
Indestructible Brooch Pins will have a notice
on the outside of each gross packet, and Trade
Mark inside, as a guarantee of their genuine-
ness. Only 'bona-flde:' Wholesale Houses

Supplied. (Signed)

E. SWAN.

CHARLES BAKER & SON

MANUFACTURERS OF

Gilt and Plated Jemellefy,

Canadian Single and Treble Gold-cased Ladies' and Gents'

Alberts, Seals, Charms.

ALBERT AND GUARD CHAINS, RINGS,

BROOCHES, PINS, EARRINGS, I OCKETS, Ac.

Also Gold and Silver Mounted Hair Alberts, Pencil Cases,

Bars, Snaps, Ac.
Speciality— Gold-cased Gents' and Ladies' Alberts, reliable

in quality, guaranteed to resist the action of any acic
Representative tor SCOTLAND,

Mr. MUDIE, 109, Argyle Street, GLASGOW

Labels, with C. B. & S.'.s Initials and Trade Mark on nllGooile, to bo hat! through
all l expectable Wholesale Houses.

THE WATCHMAKER, JEWELER AND SILVERSMITH.

[January 1, 1892.

INTERNATIONAL EXHIBITION'.
1862.

JCROUS MEDAL.
♦♦♦♦♦♦♦♦♦♦♦♦♦♦♦♦♦♦♦♦♦♦♦♦J

ESTABLISHED 50 YEARS.

SPECIAL ATTENTION

COLONIAL

HASWELL & SONS,

49 & 50, §>pe\\cex §treet, gferiie^roerr.

"TRIUMPH,"
BOLEY'S," "MARTIN'

FOREIGN ORDERS.

<§> "GO-AHEAD" LATHES,

With all Accessories.

Chronometer Makers to

the Admiralty.
************************

GENERAL ILLUSTRATED PRICE LIST ON APPLICATION.

NON-MAGNETIC COMPENSATED WATCHES, BRACELET WATCHES, AND ALL VARIETIES.

Tcls^PRDliic AddrGSS ■

ormolu, London. THE HOUSE FOR FASHIONABLE NOVELTIES

*****************************

Established 50 Years.

INVENTIONS EXHIBITION, 1885

HIGHEST AWARD, SILVER MEDAL.

222 & 224, aOSWELL ROAD, LONDON, E.C.

fDanafaetamnc} Silversmiths and JeaaelleFs,

ART METAL AND FANCY LEATHER WORKERS,

Originators and Makers of the Untarnishable Plated Filigree Photo-frames. Fancy Leather Goods with Silver

H.M. and Untarnishable Plated Mounts. Specialities for Presents. Registered Novelties. Art Designers.
Photo-frames. Mirrors. Brushes and Toilet Sets. Thermometers and Barometers. Clocks. Table Ornaments.
Pin-cushions. Watch-Stands. Jewel Cases. Puff and Sweet Boxes. Reading Glasses. Button-hooks and Shoe-
lifts. Paper-knives, Buckles, Clasps. Chatelaines and Fittings. Belts and Bags. Flower Vases, etc.

In Silver H.M and Untarnishable Plate. Leather, with Fancy Mounts.
LOOK HJEIRE1 every month for our Illustrated Novelties.

TOILET TRAYS, IN SILVER AND PLATED.

HANGING

MATCH CASE

AND TRAY.

FANCY CLOCKS.

A large variety of Patterns in Plated

Mounts from 7s. 6d. each.

Silver Mounts from 30s. each.

BRUSH AND TRINKET TRAYS,

PLATED AND SILVER,

PLATED LAMPS,

With Artistic Glass Shades.
Various Design-.

CLOCKS.

ro-hour and Eight-day, with Silver
H.-M. and Plated Mounts.

WATCH STANDS,

PLATED AND SILVER

PRICES OF ABOVE and ILLUSTRATED PRICE LISTS sent free on application.

KING & SONS, Manufacturers, 222 & 224, Goswell Rd., London, E.C.

January 1, 1892.]

THE WATCHMAKER JEWELER AND SILVERSMITH.

C. J. PLUCKNETT & CO-, 29, Poland St., London, W.

INSTANTANEOUS T SAW GRIP.

TI1E GRIP takes the place of the ordinal'? Screw, and is invaluable to piercers and all u=ing a Saw
frame. By a simple pressure of the Thumb or Finger on the Lever, the Saw is released or made
last in a m'omeir . It is practical'. y everlasting.

8s. per doz. • • Can be fitted to old frames at Is. each.
SAW-FRAMES COMPLETE, FITTED WITH THE GRIP, 1/9, 2/6, 3/-, 3/6 to 6/- EACH.
Supplied by all Tool Material dealers everywhere.

C.J. Plucknett&Co.,

29, POLAND STREET,

LONDON, W.

Dealers in Gold and Silver, Jewellers

and Watchmakers' Tools and Materials,

Files, Piercing Saws, Watch Glasses,

Hands, &c, &c.

OLD GOLD AND SILVER BOUGHT BY ASSAY.

Manufacturers and Dealers in Watch and Clock Makers and Jewellers' Tools and

Materials of every Description.

EOT FY T A THF S ANT) TOOTS

TRIUMPH, MARTIN, AND GO-AHEAD LATHES ALWAYS IN STOCK.

LANCASHIRE FILES, SCREW PLATES, NIPPERS, PLYERS, HANDS, &c.
Full Detailed Illustrated Catalogue on application. Special Quotations for Large Buyers.

Jobbin-g- -A. Speciality.

Keyless Winding Wheels, Clock Wheels and Pinions Cut to Patterns.

Watch, Clock and Jewellery Repairs of every Description.

34, UNION STRlETT~oTb^Aliri.ANCASHIRE.

A. SYDENHAM.

WMesale & manufacturing Jeweller,

26, Frederick St., BIRMINGHAM.

For Athletic Sports,

Skating, Yachting,

Boating, Curling,

Golfing, Swimming,

Shooting, &c.

Agricultural Shows.

Root, Bird, Dog,
Babbit, Horse, Bee,

Pigeon, Canary,
Poultry Shows, &c.

DRAWINGS and

PRIDES

TO THE TRADE ONLY ON

APPLICATION.

MEDALS OP ALL ZKZHsTIDS.

A. SYDENHAM'S NEW NAME
2ROOCHES

Ahe Wbll Woi'.th Keeping.

Drawings and Prices on Application.

SOVEREIGN

PURSES,
All Hall-marked.

Silver, plain ... 5/6
,, engraved 6/9
,, fancy ... 7/6

A. SYDENHAM has
a charming lot of all
sorts of fma.ll Silver
ware of a similar de-
scription to the above
articles.

SILVER MATCH
BOXES

WALTHAM WATCHES.

A. Sydenham has just added to his splendid stock

a full selection of

GOLD & SILVER "WALTHAM WATCHES

and will be much obliged for your orders.

THE WATCHMAKER, JEWELER AND SILVERSMITH.

[January 1, 1892.

Special Season Dobcltn.

Carved Tearl Pansy
Brooches.

W- H« WALTS

Sprtial Season Ufatalfg.

Tie Brooches

in all the Fashionable

Shades of Colour.

31, NEWGATE STREET, LONDON, E.C.,

IMPORTER OF NOVELTIES IN

FRENCH. AUSTRIAN, AND ITALIAN FANCY TEWELLERY, FINEST CORAL BEADS AND SNAPS.

FRENCH. ROMAN AND ORIENT PEARLS. PASTE JEWELLERY, BUCKLES, HAIR ORNAMENTS, &c.

CHATELAINES AND FITTINGS OF EVERY DESCRIPTION; SILVER, SILVER PLATED AND

OXYDISED METAL AND STEEL. SOVEREIGN PURSES IN GOLD, SILVER AND METAL.

SILVER-MOUNTED TOILET BOTTLES AND SILVER-MOUNTED BRUSHES OF ALL KINDS.

Registered
Telegraphic Address:

" IVY
LONDON."

A LARGE ASSORTMENT OF FINEST STEEL JEWELLERY ALWAYS IN STOCK.

C. T. HEWITT & SOfl, ^Wabb Manufacburers.tv Ml S^

The Senio- Partner was for 32 years with the lite Mr. C. Flist, and for tin last 10 years occupying the position of Forennn to the same. ■

OLD GOLD BOUGHT. *** *** BANGLES, RINGS, TO ORDER. ***

SST&BErlSHB9 i®f4-

Trade
S.H.

Mark

THE

GOLD WEDDING RING MANUFACTURER

Sf.B.— Th.® Masuxfaetiares' @f $^®i» Sall^aiair&edl WecMimg Mtags,

IGanJura: — Hational E>royingiali Bank, op €ngland; Iiimicted, Birmingham.

Registered Telegraphic Address: "HOPEFUL," BIRMINGHAM.

January!, 1892.]

THE WATCHMAKER JEWELER AND SILVERSMITH.

THE WHITEST ALLOY
INVENTED

dDritir-s on jklba %'ilbzt.

" TUB alloy registered under the name of ' Albo
Silver,' is peculiarly suitable for the manufacture
of Chains and Jewellery ; it has the whiteness of
grain silver, without a tinge of the yeDow or the
leady colour generally characteristic of alloys of this
kind. Indeed, so highly -was it reported on at the
British Association Exhibition by the authorities
of Mason College, that at their request samples in
ingot and in a manufactured state were perma-
nently deposited in the museum of that institu-
tion."— The Watchmaker, Jeweller and Silve* smith.

N. G. READING & Co., Q

186, 187, Warstone Lane,

Silver % Qold Plated Chains

X '; Proprktnm and $<ito Mnn.ntartureris oj

^ "HLBO SILVER"

(REGISTERED IS)

tK.td

LTRAD£_MARKjiJi Chains & Jewellery,

N-.o.-.--y! The NX/h^i+est yM loy indented-
As durable in wear as fine Silver.

Regist'd "WARSTONE. BEST"
\ K / Gold Cased Chains.

\j=s»f/ Warranted positively to resist Acids.

MIDGET. LADIES' ALBERTS.

COMPASS CHARMS, SEALS, AND LOCKETS.

JS. C. H.'s goods can be purchased through all

respectable Wholesale houses.

@^^&^C^(0&W-

AS D U RABLE I N WEAR ]
AS FINE SILVER

Critics on JUbn Siltrcr.

The Jeweller and IMalworker says : — " Without
wishing to disparage the manufactures of several
well-known houses, which are excellent in their
way, we must admit that ' Ai.bo Silver' is a
metal which, by reason of its pure whiteness and
freedom from any leaden or brassy tints, holds the
foremost position among white met Is. Itismade
up into various articles of Jewellery, such as
ladies' and gento' chains, seals, lockets, vesta
boxes. &c. Every article bea' s a registered parch-
ment label, and all swivel' are marked N.C.K.i o.
We can safely recommend our country and
colonial friends to order through their facto
goods bearirg these marks and labels."

PHAS. MJIMM<J

No. 2 & 3, ST. PAUL'S SQUARE, BIRMINGHAM,

•t

'EALERS.IK

• OLLIOH,

ISSAYERS, fltEFIIERS, AW

FINE GOLD IN SHEET OR GRAIN ; FINE SILVER IN SHEET, GRAIN, OR INGOT;

STERLING SILVER IN INGOTS OR SHEET; FINE AND STERLING WIRES,

ANY SIZES AND PATTERNS.

Patent Watch Texdants, Blanks, Stampings, Beads, &c.

SILVER SOLDERS, ALL QUALITIES; PURE COPPER FOR ALLOYS.

GOLD, SILYER, AND PARTING BARS BOUGHT BY ASSAY.

The Full Market Value given for Old Gold, Silver, Lace, Watch Cases ;

ALSO

Jewellers', Dentists' Sweeps, Polishings, and Photographers' Waste.

Remittances forwarded and prompt attention paid to Parcels
received from the Country,

W. BLOXHA

llJatsSmaBsr amd Repairer,

183, HOCKLEY ST,

BIRMINGHAM.

Jewellery repaired.

PRICE X.IST OBJ APPMCATIOW.

SAMUEL M. LEVI

IB, FredericK Street Birmingnam.

Minufacturer of the Patent Combination Match Box, Sovereign Furse,
Stamp Holder, Pencil and Tooth Pick.

CAN BE HAD THROUGH ANY WHOLESALE HOUSE.

Also Manufacturer of all

descriptions off Electro-Plated Match
Ink Stands, and other Fancy Articles.

Boxes, Sovereign Purses,

12, 13, 14, 15, & 24, ST. JOHN'S LANE, CLERKENWELL, LONDON,
importers an6 $eneraf ^factors.

Clocks, Watches, Gold and Silver Jewellery. All kinds of Fancy Goods. Watch and Clockmakers' Materials.

Watch Glasses, Main Springs, Sands, Watch and Clock Oil; Paste, Steel and Jet Brooches and Earrings; Silk, Morn,

Vulcanite, Steel and Black Bead Alberts; Spectacles, Eye-Glasses, Reading Glasses; Table Cutlery.

THE MANUFACTURERS' WHOLESALE HOUSE FOR—

Walton's Specialities, Jones' Castle Links, Collapsible

Drinking Cnp, Mexican Silver Alberts.

N. C. Reading's Albo-Silver Chains and Jewellery, Birch'g Keys. Dorcas

Thimbles, the Gripper Thimble. Barrett's Coin Mounts. All other

Coin Mounts. Progress Screws. British United Clocks.

E. P. Tea Sets, Salad. Bowls, Liqueur Frames, Cruets, Sugars,

Inkstands, Biscuits, Prize Cups, Nickel Silver and E. P.

Spoons and Forks, Fish Eaters, Dessert Sets, Fish Carvers

BROOCHES, EARRINGS, STUDS, SPECTACLES, JEWELLERY, ETC.

HAVING NO TRAVELLERS WE INVITE YOU TO CALL OR SEND AND COMPARE OUR PRiCEP

XII

THE WATCHMAKER. JEWELER AND SILVERSMITH.

[January 1, 1892.

JOHN * ROUND ^

*»^ liimiTED. p<**

-* & * SON,

(Dannfatturtiifl Sjilhersmitljs,

SHEFFIELD flr*o LONDON.

TELEGRAPHIC ADDRESSES— " ROUNDS, SHEFFIELD;" "ROUNDS, LIMITED, LONDON."

NEW REGISTERED COFFEE SPOONS.

Drawn full size, and supplied in Cases containing 6 or 12 Spoons and 1 pair Tongs in each case.
SHAMROCK. THISTLE. COMBINATION. HARP.

PRIMROSE

GLLT TOP.

Cheapest House in the trade for Silver Spoons and Forks. Large Stock kept ready for immediate delivery.

LARGEST MAKERS OF SPOONS AND FORKS IN THE WORLD.

Our New Supplementary Catalogue is now ready for delivery, and may be had by the Trade only, Post Free on application.

January 1, 1892.]

THE WATCHMAKER, JEWELER AND SILVERSMITH.

ROBERT PRINGLE & COMPANY,

SIIi'VXiRSIKEI^rilS, £sc,

WILDERNESS WORKS, 40 and 42, CLERKENWELL ROAD, LONDON, E.G.,

Beg to inform Shopkeepers and Dealers that tbey now have a well assorted Stock of the following goods in

xx.a.x-x--ike.a.:r.k:x3 33 silver,.

H.M.

Silver Napkin Rings in cases of

six
ditto, ditto, in cases of pairs
ditto, ditto, in cases singly
H.M. ditto Salt Cells and Spoons, in

cases of four
ditto, ditto, in cases of pairs
ditto Muffineers, in cases of pairs

HM
H.M

H.M
H.M

H.M.

[.M.

Silver Apostle and other 5 o'clock
Tea Spoons, in cases of six

ditto Children's Knife, Fork, and
Spoon, in cases
H.M. ditto Children's Spoon & Fork,
in cases

ditto Ladies' Card Cases, in cases

ditto Cents' ditto, ditto

ditto Children's Cans

.M.
.M.
.M.

H.M. Silver Fancy Salt Spoons
H.M. ditto Fancy Mustard Spoons
H..M. ditto Fruit Knives (pearl & ivory

handles)
H.M. ditto Butter Knives ditto, ditto
H.M. ditto Match Boxes
H.M ditto Cigarette Cases
H.M. ditto Sovereign Purses

tHKfalmle & Jltatmfactohtjj Jfetoslte, ^iltastmffe & Btamotitr Jttomtta,

FREDERICK STREET, BIRMINGHAM.

Sole Licensees for the NEW " INYICTA " BROOCH.

ADVANTAGES.

1st. — No projecting points, thus preventing
injury to children, etc.

2nd. — The facility with which it can be
attached or removed.

3rd. — Greater safety.

Prov. Protected, No. 7677. Perfect safety. Breakages reduced to u, minimum

No. 1 sketch shows Brooch with

pin B closed. No. 2 sketch shows
pin B drawn out. Insert the pin
A in the dress and secure Brooch
by closing pin B, as shown in
section sketch No. 3.

ADVANTAGES.

4th. — Complete immunity from breakages-
of joints, pins or catches.

5th. — Has all the advantages of a
safety Brooch without the difficulty of
adjustment.

Special designs prepared for all Mounting Orders. Strict attention paid to Appro- Orders and Repairs.

MANUFACTURER OF JEWELLERY

and Jewellers' Materials

OF ALL KINDS.

Repairs promptly
attended to.

21 &22,
KEY HILl,

Hockley, BIRMINGHAM.

:E*ORD & "BRIGHT,

DIAMOND CUTTERS AND P OLISDTERS.

GEM CUTTERS AND LAPIDARIES IN ALL BRANCHES.

Diamond Mills, 116 & 118, Clerkenwell Road, and 18 & 19, Clerkenwell Green,.

LONDON.

All Diamonds and other Gems cut on the premises

WATCH MANUFACTORY,

Geneva,

SWITZERLAND.

Loxtjon Agency 60, Chandos Street, Strand.

Stnrtes
anil (grjUr '

Seals
(Bttgraireir

ESTABLISHED 10 YEARS.

MITCHELL & COOPER,

Heraldic, Monogram, Inscription, and General Engraver

TO THE TRADE ONLY,

58, Great Sutton St., Clerkenwell, London.

Coats of Arms, Ciphers, Crests. Initials, etc., Engraved on Plate, Watches,
Prize Cups, Medals, etc.
The only house In the Trade with a staff of experienced workmen devoted exclusively
to Engraving in all Its branches.

No charge made for Sketches to regular Customers.
Send for our Sheet Designs, which will he forwarded Free on receipt of Business Card.

J&onrr-
grams

L anil
Gtarbeft.

AT 1, NORTHAMPTON STREET.

XIV

THE WATCHMAKEE, JEWELER AND SILVERSMITH.

[January 1, 1892.

WEILL & CO.,

Established 1863.

WATCH MANUFACTURERS AND IMPORTERS OF MUSICAL BOXES
SPECIALITIES:

"THE ASCOT"

REGISTERED CHRONOGRAPH MINUTE RECKONER

"The WINNER."

A Double-split Non-magnetic Chrono-
graph, Quadruple Dial and Minute
Recorder, with

PATENT CONTINUOUS SPLIT ACTION.

tflie Gelebrated JVEac^hie-niade
"BXLLODES111

In Gold, Silver, and Nickel.

Levers & Horizontals.

Keyless & Non-Keyless.

e&zac&t&t tyVatcfacs. Sp'Cit Qhzonoataiptis, <5fton-<3\Laa<n<z-lic and Qa(cndai ^IVakcn-zs.
ILLUSTRATED CATALOGUE ON APPLICATION.

3, HOLBORN CIRCUS, LONDON, E.C.

AND 40, RUE LEOPOLD-ROBERT, CHAUX-DE-FONDS, SWITZERLAND.

ENGLISH, SWISS &
AMERICAN

WATCHES

Gold, Silver & Metal.

English, French,
American, and
German

CLOCKS

Every Make
in Stock.

DIAMOND,
(V / GOLD,
//*• / SILVER,
X/ / JET and / V">

^^^/ ftncy Jewelry. / ^^^

^^ / Everything/ /"V^J

/ for Ladies' x. V/^

Our
11ns-

tra.ed
Price List

for Ladies' &

Gentlemen's
wear.

All Novelties
as they issue
Materials and
every requi
site for the
trade

Cigar,
Cigarette,
Vesta and
Card Cases,
Button Nooks,
Paper Knives,
Apostle

Spoons,
Fruit Knives,
Pickle Forks,
Salts,
Scent Bottles,
Sovereign
Purses,
Chatelaine, .

And every description I ^^k I

of Fancy Plate in Hall- / ^/ / IT CAN BE HAD FREE

marked Silver and Best
Electro-Plate.

CONTAINS
ILLUSTRA-
TIONS OF THE

Recoe^f
5e)e<!>igrui>
IN ALL GOODS,

And much interesting

Business Card must be sent with
Application.

London-made 9ct. Alberts, Hall-marked on every link, fashion included ..

Nickel Keyless Watches .. .. .. .. .. .. Gents' from

Silver Watches . . . • . . • • • • . . • • • . „ „

Gold Watches . .

„ „ 18ct. English Keyless, three-quarter plate Levers

„ „ 10 holes jewelled, chronometer balance, very strong cases

" Bee " Clocks, in London-made Leather Cases complete

Hall-marked Silver Mounted Malacca Walking Sticks
„ „ Name Brooches, any name

Telegraphic Address :-" HENCOOP, LONDON

■ • 40s. per oz.

5s. 6d. Ladies' from 8s. 6d.

10s. 6d. „ „ 8s. 9d.

„ 9ct. „ 20s.

Gents' £10 12s. 6d.

Ladies' £7 12s. 6d.

3s. 9d. each.

from 2s. 9d. each.

Is. each.

H, J. COOPER & Co., LTDM 150, Oxford Street, London.

WHOLESALE ONLY.

[January 1, 1892.

THE WATCHMAKER, JEWELER AND SILVERSMITH

REFORM CYCLES.

Agents wanted. Lists Free.

FLAVELL cfe CO.,

COVENTRY.

T. WALL,

Manufacturer of Best
Gilt Jewelry.

90, VITTORiA ST., BIRMINGHAM,
W, WINKLES,

(Glluttljmalicr tC* ^epairtr to llje foxubt,
179, WARSTONE LANE, BIRMINGHAM.

Every description of English and Foreign Watches skilfully
and promptly repaired,

SPECIALITIES — Repairs receive immediate

and personal attention.

Price List on Application.

Latest Improvement in Silverwprk. Stock always

Fresh and Clean.

i t

MASPERAK,"

New Alloy of Silver. Without Base Metals.

Resists all Oxidizing Influences of the Atmosphere.

Sole Agent :

ADOLPH HAMBURG,

7, HATTON GARDEN, London. E.C.

Agents for Birmingham for the Watchmaker, Jeweller
and Silversmith.

FRANK * MOTT,

(Btrnvai Stationer, ^Sonkijinitng,
artu j£bhisaamr.rr.

WHOLESALE PAPER DEALER.

DEALER IN FANCY GOODS.

57, Uyse Street, Birmingham.

Established 1858.

J. DILGER,

35, PERCIVAL STREET, CLERKENWELL,

LONDON.

MANUFACTURERS
AND I

WITH AN

ro THE ADVANTAGES OF JUDICIOUS

ADVERTISING

will do well to consult

ILLs ADVERTISING

HENRY SELL.

MANAGING DIRECTOR

I67&I68.FLEET STREET. LONDON*

.jSfRE£, Established

£5TlM^

A QUARTER of a CENTURY.

ESTABLISHED 1782.

S. PARXES AND SONS,

WATCH KEY MANUFACTURERS.

SOLE MAKERS OP THE

Combination Swivel and Watch Key, Patent, and
"Universal" Keys to wind any watch.

I BATH STREET, BIRMINGHAM.

Sheffield & Biming-ham Plating Works.

T. SMITH & CO.,

{Established 1850.) Price List on application.

10, Pereival St., Goswell Road, London.

French zinc and other clock cases restored or gilt,

colours equal to Paris. Timepiece dials dead gilt or

matted, and dead silvered, and French silvered. Watch

dials gilt, bleached and painted, 6d. each, or 5s. 6d. per

dozen. Electro-plating and Gilding of every description.

Post-Office Orders to be Made Payable, Chief

Office, Goswell Road.

Cheques to be crossed " London and County Bank."

"WORKERS to the TRADE of

DRESSING COMBS, PAPER
KNIVES, &c.

CHEAPEST
HOUSE
IN THE TRADE.

Watch and Clock Material Dealer, Tools, <k

PJIWE LIST ON~ APPLICATION.

57a, Northampton Street,

BIRMINGHAM:.

J. FAWSON,

♦
SHarafariuriug fjfocller, (§mtra.[ J^omtttr,

ELECTRO GILDER AND PLATER.
Special Jewellery Repairs returned same day I
as received-

Best English ^-^Z- \
Make. ^-"^ Q \

^r 0^^"^ARMSTR°NG & SONS,

\ ^S^"""^ 51. DORSET ROAD, CLAPHAM ROAD
^ L0WD0M, S.W.

ALBERT SWINGEW00D,

^Hannfarturer al (Ebcrrr gsarrittiiijtt ol

JEWELLERY CASES

AND

GLASS SHOW CASES,

81, CAROLINE ST., and 45, FREDERICK ST.,

WILLIAM VALE & SONS^

Patentees and Sole Manufacturers of the

AUTOMATIC FORK,

SUITABLE FOR PICKLES, PISH,
BREAD, PASTRY, &c, &c„

Unett Works, 83, Unett Street, Birmingham.

C. J. DUNLOP,

62, Great Hampton St., BIRMINGHAM
SStattJnnafctr mxa glepaiwr,

DEALER IN

All kinds of Watch, Clock, & Jewelry Tools, Materials &c.

Trade Repairs quickly attended to at moderate

charges.

Jewel Holes Fitted, Staffs, Pinions, Watch Dials, and

English Clock Dials restored.

N.B.— PLEASE NOTE CHANGE OF ADDRESS.

B, XX. jQSJcaPxx & COi,

MANUFACTURING JEWELLERS

AND DIAMOND MOUNTERS,

20, FREDERICK STREET

BIRMINGHAM,
And as, ELY PLACE, LONDON, E.C.

The "GRIPPER" THIMBLE,

REGISTERED.

Special Features.

The only Thimble made which grips
the needle and prevents it slipping

off into the finger.
Will Wear longer than two or thrt
of any other pattern.

Shape of holes causes all pressure on strongest part.
Made of Solid Silver, and obtainable of any Wholesale House

W, M, BROWN,

15,GT. HAMPTON STREET,

BIRMINGHAM.

WLntdjmsktx & iltatmal Italcr

IN EVERY DETAIL FOR THE TRADE.

PRICE LIST POST FREE.

' JOSEPH MOOHE,
Hi* (Bngrabtr arto JIUuaUtst,

MANUFACTURER OF

fttamen, Satrges, &t„ for &t&Ittir, $iut, ^brimming,
sni 0t(?£r prizes.

PITSFORD ST., YYSE ST., BIRMINGHAM.
"THE PERFECTION OF NEATNESS."

London-made Jewellery Boxes at Birmingham Price
All Nested in Six— Oblong or Square.

From 3/- per Gross, nested. 16 qualities.

A Sample Nest, showing all qualities,
Post Free on receipt of Trade Card and Six Penny Stamps

F R KFTTI F Jewellers' Box
-I . U, l\U I ILL, Manufacturer,

'Tostfree. 9, NEW OXFORD STREET,

And 11, Kingsgate Street, London, W.C.

ESTABLISHED 1840.

WILLIAM MILLWARD,

MANUFACTURER OF

GILT WATCH KEYS AND

PATENT KEY TO WIND ANY WATCH,

MILTON STREET,
Near Summer Lane, BIRMINGHAM.

"Wholesale Agentsfor Brandreth' Files, and Bruton's
Paints and Enamels.

h:. ivtAjparxiEFfc, •& CO.,

Dealers in English and Foreigu Materials and Tools,

V*. holesale and for Exportation,

75, spojv jsm **, «jo v jba try.

H. M. & CO. wish specially to cill attention to the fact that
being trained as Watch Finishers they are enabled to give the
necessary supervision to all Springs, Chains, and Materials they
offi-r, and gu < ran tee all their goods to be carefully selected trum
the very best makers.

H. M. So Co. have just added a IS"RW WING FOR WATCH
JOBBING FOB. THE THADh!. l'rice Lists on application.
Watches, clocks, and Jewellery Repaired,

A U kind* of ting raving done. Watches and Qloaha Repaired
J.'rict8 Q1\ application

XVI

THE WATCHMAKER, JEWELER AND SILVERSMITH.

[January 1, 1892.

SILVER MEDAL
1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1

USHER & COLE,

PARIS 1889.
■ 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 in 1 1

< Qf?roQO/T)eter * apd * U/ateh? * /T\a^er5 • to * tf^ * /^d/r\iralty. *

105, ST. cJOHjsl STREET ROAD, LONDON.

Manufacturers of London-made

Calendars, Repeaters, Chronographs, and Marine Chronometers.

REPAIRS OF ALL KINDS-

Watches with Kew Observatory "A" Certificates. Illustrated Catalogues and Price Lists.

■a

. TAYLOR,

Late JOHN TAYLOR. Established 1878.

(|l(mTs[fa@tHriF>g ^ptieietmg far tfis (prode ®n4 |>Bipperg ®ml%

OPERA GLASSES. FIELD & MARINE GLASSES. TELESCOPES, BARO-
METERS. (Special Fancy Patterns at Low Figures). Thermometers, Photo-
graph Came has. Lenses anrt Stands. Spectacle Cases, Eyeglass Cases,
Eyeglass Cords, lenses of every description, plain and lintec. Peuble
spectacles. Oculists' Prescription;, carefully worked, Rlpairs (tame
day as received).

Spectacles and Folders in every Pattern known t<> the irnde, from cheapes
to the very best, in Gold, Silver, Steel, Solid Nickel; and Torioise.-hell. speciaiilifi
in Non-Knsting Folders and Spectacles for Export Trade All the Latest /'atterns
in Cork Nose and Easy- Wearing Folders., Special Terms to Large Buyer

PHOTOGRAPHIC CAMERAS (Our own Male). Specialite.— High Class Workmanship and Finish, at Moderate Prices.
Lenses, stands, and all Accessories. Complete Outfits s upplied. Photographs of our Specialities furnished to Buyers on application .

JMamifactory at 34=, Tenby Street North, Birming-liam.

PARCEL-GILDING

IN ALL DEAD
AND BRIGHT
COLOURS.

AND

a£

PLATER AND

V^>^ INTRODUCER OF THE ^\^£

SPOONS, FORKS, CRUETS,

and ALL PLATED GOODS

RE-POLISHEITAND

DONE UP AS

EW at lowest

O^X. possible

*/A

WHICH PRODUCES ON GOLD WORK THE NEAREST
\* / * APPROACH TO COLOURED GOLD. *

/AND ON ALL KINDS OF METAL & SILVER WORK A SPLENDID SATIN FINISH.
«' SPECIAL ATTENTION TO COUNTRY ORDERS."

-^==$5^=^ ft

9 & 10, NORTHAMPTON STREET, BIRMINGHAM.

cost.

SILVASTOR

(PATENT).

For preventing Tarnish on

Silver and Electro-plated Goods.

Sold in Bottles at 2s. 6d. each.
\ Liberal Discount to WHOLESALE DEALERS.

AOENT8 WANTED.

Proprietor I Mr, T. HOLDEN, 17, Hargreaves St., Burnley.

EDWARD DAY,

ESTABLISHED 1857,

« l^BKIQEl^ £I)B ^SSJiyE^ k

Dealer in Gold and Silver, pure or in any Standard in
Sheet or Wire.

Purchased op Gold and Silver in Bars, Lemel,

Jewelers' Sweep, Dentists' and Photographers' Waste,

Gilt and Plated Metal and Old Silver Plate.

JKatmfarimcr of

Hollow Gold, Silver and Metal Beads, Beaded and Fancy Wires,

Galeree Border, Settings, Brooch Ornaments, Chains, Fancy Rolled

Silver and other Metals for Jewelers and Silversmiths.

28, WARSTONE LANE, BIRMINGHAM.

And 108, EUE DU TEMPLE, PAEIS.

January 1, 1892.]

THE WATCHMAKER, JEWELER AND SILVERSMITH.

xv 11

P. & A. G

77, Farringdon Road,

londonT5^

T^T

Manufacturers of

KEYLESS & KEY-WINDING

fc uJafdasg. 4¥

Waltham

Watches

The new Filled 14°J Gold Cases

GENERAL AGENTS :-

ROBBINS & APPLETON, WALTHAM BUILDINGS, HOLBORN CIRCUS, LONDON, E.C,

13, GEORGE STREET
BIRlttNGHAM.

FURRIER & Co.

ELECTRO-PLATE MANUFACTURERS,
SILVERSMITHS,

METAL WORKERS, GILDERS, and CUTLERS,

Showrooms : —

29, COLEMAN STREET

LONDON.

(JB&S)

# IXOtal.lkSJrei STREET WQilfelES,
BIRMINGHAM.

^1M4^

■s-

A.VD

ILLUSTRATED
PATTERN

SHEETS AND BOOK
Post Fbee.

SPECIAL %
* PRICES

FOP.

Large Quantities.

Patentees of the

^T0

<5>

^*t0 BUTTER P^s £

OF THE

"Fresh"
Coffee Pot.

VISITORS'
NAPKIN RING.

Patent No. 18209.
From (J=.. 6d. each.

REVERSIBLE
TANKARDS.

ANT. MEYERS SUCCESSOR.

STUTTGART.

Sole Special Manufactory of Germany.

Establishkd 1861.

Hatchman/s Improved f ime Ietectors.

Sole Agents: WEILL & CO., Watch Manufacturers, 3, Holbora Circus, London

Will

THE WATCHMAKER, JEWELER AND SILVERSMITH.

[January 1, 1892

NEWSOME & CO.,

THE BUTTS, COVENTRY.

»♦♦♦♦♦♦♦♦♦♦♦♦♦♦♦♦♦♦♦♦♦♦♦♦♦«

WHOLESALE WATCH MANUFACTURERS.

All kinds of English Lever Watches in Stock. Sole
Makas of Patent Safety Wheel for Going Barrels. Keyless
Work a Speciality with or without the

KEW CERTIFICATE IN "A," " B," OR "C" CLASS.

Highest No. of Marks for Positional Adjustment at Kew. Watch No. 102816, 36-4 out oj possible 40. ILLUSTRATED CATALOGUE ON APPLICATION

ONLY ADDHtSS.

D»

H, BAY!

NO REPRESENTATIVES.

Silver^milK^ • ai • Dealer^ # in ® /InliquQ^

2 & 3, Livery Street, BIRMINGHAM.

Having commissions from several American Houses, we are prepared to buy, at highest

Cash Prices :

Antique Silver Plate of every description.

Old War Medals, dated 1848, or earlier.

Old Stone-set Shoe Baokles.

Job Lots of Secondhand Watches and Jewellery.

Old Gold and Silver at Refiners' Prices.

Antique Jewellery of all kinds.

Old Bronzes and Carved Ivories.

Enamel Patch Boxes, Salt Cellars, Candlesticks, etc.

Old Watch Movements and Gilt Watch Plates.

Antique Gold and Silver Brooches and Rings.

Old Gold and Silver Coins.

Antique Diamond and Pearl Jewellery.

Old Oil Paintings and Prints of a Sporting Character.
Foreign Gold, Silver, and Paper Money Exchanged.
Old Plated on Copper Wine Coolers, "Venison Dishes.

,, „ Candelabra, Epergnes, etc.

,, „ Tea Pots, Coffee Pots, etc.

,, „ Entree Dishes, Tureens, etc.

Old Miniatures on Ivory or Enamel.
Old China of every description.
Old Collections of Foreign Postage Stamps.
Old Armour and Weapons.
Antique Furniture.

And Curios of every kind.

Cash or Cheque remitted by return oj post, and if -trices not satisfactory goods returned.

S)anl«rs :
BIRMINGHAM & METROPOLITAN BANKING COMPANY, Limited, Bennett's Hill, BIRMINGHAM.

Now Ready, with Frontispiece, Demy 8vo, 140 pages. Price 2s. (post free.)

Being an Account and Comparison of the Exhibits in the Horological Section of the French International Exhibition, by

J. TRIPPLIN, F.R.A.S., Watch Manufacturer,

Vice-President, British Horological Institute; Juror, International Exhibition, 1SS9 ; Chevalier of the Legion of Honour, tic. etc

31, HOLBORN VIADUCT, E.C.

SUMMARY OF CONTENTS.
Introduction — Horological Li erature — Schools of Horology — Chronometer Makers — Watch Manufacturers — Turret Clock Manufacturers-
Clock Manufacturers — Tools for Watch and Clock Makers — Inventors — Shopkeepers — Watch-case Makers — Timers — Engravers — Gilders
— Platform Escapement Makers — Escapement Material Makers — Watch Jewel Makers — Balance-Spring Makers — Mainspring Makers — PiDion
Makers — Wheel Mid Wheel-Cutter Makers — Hand Makers — Dial Makers— Screw Makers — File Msnufacturers — Morocco Watch Case
Makers — Watc', Iniporicrrt — Mnsiual Boxes — Optional Hall-Marking at Geneva — Conclusion.

January 1, 1892.]

THE WATCHMAKER, JEWELER AND SILVERSMITH.

xxi

TOWNSHEND & CO.,

Works and
Show Room

Ernest St., BIRMINGHAM.

POLISHED BRASS WETTING SET.

1471. To weigh up to

8oz 25 - each.

12 oz 35- „

16 oz 50/- ,,

Polished Brass.
2749. 50/- each.

Brass and Oak..
2745. 90/- each

Polished Brass.
2747. 85/- each.

2771. 50/- each.

\\u

THE WATCHMAKER, JEWELER AND . SILVERSMITH.

[January 1, 1892.

Jpr# %olds\nithn and ^eqernl

CAPITAL .. £250,000.

Registered Offices— 85, GEESHAM STREET, GUILDHALL, LONDON, EC.

Write for Prospectus before renewing existing Insurances with other Offices.

The Kates fob Goldsmiths, Jewelers and Silversmiths have keen Kevised and

Reduced as under : —
Policies under £2,000 .. .. .. 5/- °/D

„ £6,000 4/- %

„ £10,000 3/6 0/„

,, £20,000 .. .. .. 3/- °/0

over £20,000 .. .. .. 2/6 °/0

Three-fourths total value of Stock or Contents to be insured at above rates.
Special rates quoted where Stock is kept in approved Burglar- proof Safes, or Strong
Ivooms ; also where the proportion insured is other than three-fourths.

The Directors invite applications for Agencies from Travellers and other Representatives

of the Trade.
JNO. H. HAIG, Secretary. J. M. BUCHANAN, General Manager.

COMPLETE

ELECTRO -PLATING PLANT

FOR WATCHMAKERS AND JEWELERS.

Prices from £3 to £4,000. Estimates Free.

O. BEREND & Co.,

ELECTRICAL ENGINEERS,
61, FORE STREET, LONDON, E.G.

ESTABLISHED 1 8JO.

manufacturer of ail kinds of matches.

THIS TRADE MARK GIVES YOU EVERY PROTECTION.

CH. CHOPAKB,

SONVILLIER (SWITZERLAND),

(Successor of F. Chopard.)

Exportation of Good Medium Keyless and Key Watches to

all Countries.

SPECIALITIES OF ENGLISH STYLE.

Large and Small Watches, Hunters and Open Faces. (H1132J.)

£api3cn/i4 and cfceciows *jfc
§tcne DEALER

THAT DO NOT HEAR THIS
REGISTERED TRADE MARK.

WHOI.KSALK OKLY FKOM THIS MA>"UFAOTUIlKn—

I. LANGDALE, Standard. Jet Works, WHITBY, YORKS.

If there is any difficulty in obtaining at the shops Bend a postcard to Manufacturer,

who will send name uf nearest Jeweller keeping them.

CS®

All work
done on the Premises.

75,

SPENCER STREET,
BIRMINGHAM.

To Wholesale Manufacturers. Royalties Granted on Easy Terms- Patent No. 1703.

WALKER'S Newly-Invented 8-DAY LEVER WATCH

IT REQUIRES ONLY TO BE WOUND UP ONCE A WEEK

(322 TUJRIVS a year, instead of 1,460 TURNS, as required by tlie ordinary one-day ivau:h.)

Testimonials and Terms sent on- application to

S. TO^Ii^e^ 21, SOUTH ROAD, WATERLOO, LIVERPOOL.

TELEGRAPHIC ADDRESS: "MATERIALS, LONDON.'

MANUFACTURERS AND IMPORTERS OF

TOOLS AND MATERIALS FOR
JEWELLERS, WATCHMAKERS, & SILVERSMITHS.

Illustrated Catalogue for 1892 now ready. Post Free to the Trade on Application.

46 & 47, CLERKENWELL GREEN, LONDON, E.C.

ESTABLISHED I822.

January 1, 1892.]

THE WATCHMAKEE, JEWELEE AND SILVEESMITH.

xxm

BUYERS* GUIDE.

ARTISTIC SILVER SUNDRIES.

Pringle Robert & Co. actual Makers (not merely
Factors') at their Steam Works, 40 and 42, Clerkenwell
Road. Children's Cans. Salt Cellsand Spoons, Serviette
Rings, Apostle and Coffee Spoons, Clips, Goblets,
Mustard Pots and Spoons : Muffineers, Cream Jugs,
Sugar Basins, Tea Spoons, Medals, and Alberts, duty
free. Old Gold and Silver bought in any quantity
for molting at the highest market price. Silver
Goods sent out on approbation.

BARORIETER AND COMPASS
MANUFACTURERS.

Barker Francis & Son 12, Clerkenwell Road, London,
Wholesale Manufacturers of rocket and Charm
Compasses, Aneriod Barometers. Sun Dials, etc.
Illustrated Trade Catalogue free on application.

BOX MAKER.

Kettle, F. G. 9- New Oxford Street, and 11, Kingsgate
Street, London, W.C. Send for Price List, post free.

CHRONOMETER MANUFACTURERS.

Oram George & Son 19. Wilmington Square, Clerken-
well. Marine and Pocket Chronometers, all kinds
of first-class Keyless Lever Watches, Chronographs,
Repeaters, and Regulators always in stock.

CIOCR MANUFACTURERS.

Smith John & Sod, Midland Steam Clock Works, Derby

Wdkins John & Co. 11, St. John Street Road, Clerken-
well.

DIAMOND POLISHERS.

Ford & Wright Steam Lapidary Works, Diamond
Cutters and Polishers, Gem Cutters and Lapidaries
m all branches, 18 and 19, Clerkenwell Green and
Clerkenwell Road.

ELECTRO GILDERS A1\D PLATERS.

Horton J. & Son 80, High Street, Whitechapel, London
one of the oldest and best firms for Wilding and
Platiag. Established 1834.

ENGRAVERS.

Mitchell & Cooper Heraldic, Monogram, Inscription
and General Kngravers to the Trade, 58, Great
suaon Street, Clerkenwell, London. Articles
engraved while customers wait.— See Advt

COLD AND SILVER DIAL
MANUFACTURERS.

Elston Richard & Sons 24, Myddelton Street, London
Dud, to Wycherley & Co.'s movements and other
makes in stock. Half covers enamelled. Jobbing
Department : Special attention to Case and Dial
Repairsand Renewals. Established nearly 100 years

GOLD & SILVER REFINERS.

HaiTOld Chas. & Co. 2 and 3, St. Paul's Square, Bir-
mingham.— See Advt.

The Sheffield Smelting Company Limited Sheffield,

Sell Gold and Silver (refined and alloyed;. Buy all
materials containing Gold and Silver.
Westwood C. & Sons 14, Hall Street, Birmingham.—
6ee Advt.

Day Edward 28, Warstone Lane, Birmingham.— See
Advt.

GOLDSMITHS, MANUFACTURING.

Bragg, T. & J. Vittoria Street, Birmingham, and
15, Thavies Inn, London, Goldmiths, Jewellers,
Diamond Mounters, Art Silversmiths. By Special
Appointment to Her Majesty the Queen. Royal
and other Orders and Insignia, Mayoral Chains,
Maces, Corporate Seals, Caskets, Keys, Swords.
Masonic Jewellers.

Ginder Walter J. 47, Frederick Street, Birmingham. —
See Adot.

Lucas Brothers 22, Hylton Street, Birmingham.— See
Advt.

Saunders & Shepherd Bartlett's Passage Buildings,
Holborn Circus, London. — See Advt.

Sydenham, A. 26, Frederick Street, Birmingham.— See
Advt.

GOLD WATCH CASE MAKERS.
W- Neal 27, Craven Street, Coventry.

JET ORNAMENT MANUFACTURER.

Jones E. A. Wholesale Manufacturer of Whitby Jet
Ornaments. A large assortment of the Newest
Patterns always in stock. Export Orders promptly
executed. Persons not having an account open will
avoid delay by forwarding a reference with their
order. Customers' Matchings and Repairs with
despatch. 93, Hat-ton Garden, London, E.C.

JEWELLERS, MANUFACTURING.

Backes & Strauss Limited 64, Holborn Viaduct,
London. — See Advt.

Goode J. & Sons Regent Place, Birmingham. — See
Advt.

Greenberg I. S. & Co- 22, Vyse Street, Birmingham.—
See Advt.

Jones T. Walter 48-50, Hylton Street, Birmingham.—
See Advt.

Reading N. C. & Co. Warstone Lane, Birmingham.—
See Advt.

Scott A. 62, Summer Hill Road, Birmingham.— See
Advt.

JEWELLERS, WHOLESALE.

Cooper H. J. & Co. Oxford Street, London. — See Advt.
Walter W. H. Newgate St.eot, London.— See Advt.

JEWELLERS' ROUGE MANU-
FACTURERS.

MASONIC JEWELLER.

Kenning G. Little Britain and Aldersgato Street,
London. — See Advt.

OPTICIANS, WHOLESALE.

Botwright & Grey 13, Spencer Street, Clerkenwell,
London.— See Advt.

Raphael J. & Co. 13, Oxford Street, London.— See Advt

RING (GOLD) MANUFACTURER.

Hope S. 126, Vyse Street, Birminghim.— See Advt.

SAFE MANUFACTURERS.

Chubb & Sons Limited. Queen Victoria Street, Lon-
don.

Tann J. Newgate Street, London.

SILVERS TIITHS, MANUFACTURING.

Round J. & Son Limited, Tudor Works, Sheffield
and Holborn Circus, London. — See Advt.

Willis Mark & Son Rockingham Street, Sheffield.—
See Advt.

WATCH JOBBER.

Ockenden S. Chronometer and Watch Jobber to the
Trade, 155, Goswell Road, London, E.C. Staffs.
Pinions, Cylinders, Conversions, etc. Price List on
application. Established 1887.

WATCH MANUFACTURERS.

Baume & Co. 21, Hatton Garden, London, Coventry,
and Switzerland. — See Advt.

Clemence Freresll, Southampton Row, London, and
Switzerland. — See Advt.

Guye P. & A. Farringdon Road, London. — See Advt.

Hargreaves J. & Co. Wholesale Watch Manufacturers,
17, Norton Street, London Road, Liverpool. Makers
to Her Majesty the Queen, and H.R.H. the Prince
of Wales.

Newsome & Co. The Butts, Coventry.— See Advt.

Rotherham & Sons Coventry and Londoti.— See Advt.

Stauffer Son & Co. 13, Charterhouse Street, London
and Switzerland. — See Adot.

Usher & Cole 105, St. John Street Road, London.
Makers to the Admiralty. — See Advt.

Waltham Watch Company Holborn Circus, London.—
See Adot.

WATCH MATERIALS.

Grimshaw & Baxter Goswell Road, London. — See

Adot.

Haswell R. & Sons Spencer Street, Clerkenwell,
London. — Sec Advt.

Swinden & Sons Temple Street, Birmingham.— See
Adot.

WATCH REPAIRERS.

Thiele E- 31, Vyse Street, Birmingham, Watch Re-
pairer to the Trade. New parts replaced quickly.
Special attention to jewellery repairs. Price List
on application.

Hayward, G\, Watchmaker and Repairer to (li° Trade,
Nowpiecesbypost. Complicated and Faulty Watches
put in good order. G. Hayward, 90, Hatton Garden,
London, E.C.

XXIV

THE WATCHMAKER, JEWELER AND SILVERSMITH.

[January 1, 1S92.

MR. FREDK. B. BOX,

3lgeni for Ibe disposal of ffitnttljmakm'
nnb Refuellers' ^Businesses.

SPECIAL FEATURE. — No charge whatever

unless a Sale is effected, and no charge

to Purchasers.

Valuations made on Moderate Terms.

HIGHEST REFERENCES.

Offices:
64, Holbom Viaduct, E.C.

Mr. Box is instructed to sell the following
Businesses :

1. Watchmaker's and Jeweller's in good

thriving town in the North of England. Rent
only £46. Average returns, £2,000. Wind-
ings, £70 a year. Stock and fixtures at
valuation, about £1,500. Ill-health cause of
sale. An old-established genuine business
worthy prompt attention.

2. Watchmaker's and Jeweller's in good

South Coast town. Rent on lease, £55.
Average returns, £1,200 to £1,300 a year.
Shop well fitted and modern. Stock, mostly
new, all saleable at valuation. About £1,300
required, of which £1,000 in cash and balance
on easy terms.

3. Watchmaker's and Jeweller's in good

thoroughfare in North London. Rent, £105,
on lease. Good shop and comfortable house.
Superior middle-class trade. Returns last
year, £1,150. Jobbing, about £3 a week;
rest sales. Stock and fixtures, about £1,300,
of which £900 in cash, balance on easy terms.

4. Watchmakers and Jeweller's in

quiet little seaside town on South Coast.
Rent on lease, £50. Large house attached ;
two rooms let off permanently for £13 a year
unfurnished ; other rooms let in the season to
more than pay rent. A double-fronted shop,
one side devoted to high-class fancy and wools.
Average total returns, £1,400. Established
and in same hands twenty - three years.
Vendor retiring. All at valuation, about
£800. A practical watchmaker and his wife
accustomed to a Berlin house business would
do well. No opposition.

5. Watchmaker's and Jeweller's in

military town fifty miles from London.
Premises well situate in the High Street.
Rent, £90. Large house attached. Returns,
£1,500 a year; principally a sale trade. Stock
and fixtures at valuation reduced to £600. For
sale under exceptional circumstauces.

6. Watchmaker's and Jeweller's in

Brighton, established seventeen years. Rent
on lease, £60. Side entrance. House let off
for £36. Returns, £7 to £8 a week. Good
jobbing connection. All at valuation, about
£350.

7. Watchmaker's and Jeweller's in large

cathedral town in the West of England.
Premises well situate in the High Street.
Rent for lock-up shop, £35. Returns, £7 a
week. Good airtight fittings aud stock re-
duced at valuation to £150.

8. Watchmaker's and Jeweller's in main

road South London. Rent, £65 on lease. Good
shop, commodious house, side entrance, and
large garden. Established and in same hands
twelve years. Average returns over £800.
Vendor is retiring on a competency. About
£400 required. A practical man could make
about £300 a year nett.

9. Watchmaker's and Jeweller's in

Brecknockshire. Rent and taxes only £20 a
year ; good house. Nett profits last year,
£180. £300 required for everything.

Further particulars of mg of the above and many
others, gratis en application.

INDEX TO ADVERTISERS.

Ahronsberg, Bros., Birmingham ..

Albo Silver Chains

Armstrong, J., & Sons, London ..
Armstrong, T. & Brothers, Manchester ..
Ateliers Hoster de St. Nicolas, Ltd., London

Backes & Strauss, London
Baker, C, & Son, Birmingham
Barker, F.. & Son, London..
Baylis, Henry, Birmingham
Baume & Co., London
Berend, O., & Co., London

Birch, John S., New York

Bloxham, W., Birmingham
Borgzinner Brothers, London

Botwright & Grey, London

Box, F. B., London ..
Brown, W. H., Birmingham
Buyers' Guide

Caldicott, J. W., Birmingham
Carver, F. J., Birmingham
Carley, Geo , & Co., London
Carter, G., London
Chapman, Son, and Co., London ..
Chopard, Ch., Switzerland ..
Clemence Freres, London
Cooper, H. J., & Co., London
Crick & Co., Tottenham

Davis, D. & M. Birmingham
Day, Edward. Birmingham..

Diary for 1892

Dilger, J., London

Duulop, C. J., Birmingham..

F
Fattorini & Sons, Bradford
Fawsoi, J., Birmingham
Fenwiek, A., Birmingham ..

Flavell & Co., Coventry

Ford and Wright, London

Garstin. A., & Co , Londou . .
Ginder Bros., Birmingham ..
Goldsmiths' and General Burglary Insur-
ance Association, Limited, London
Goode, John, & Sons, Birmingham
Gray, E., & Son, London ..
Greenbers. I. S.. & Co., Birmingham
Griffith, W., & Sons, Birmingham
Grimshaw & Baxter, London
Gripper Thimble
Guy e, P. & A., London

Hamburg, A., London
Hirrold, C, & Co ., Birmingham ..
Harvey, G. W., & Co., Birmingham
Haswell, R.. & Sons, London
Hewitt, C. T., & Son, Coventry ..

Hill, C. J.. Coventry

Hirst, A. & S., Oldham

Holden. T., Burnley . .
Hope, Birmingham . .
Hotchkiss, Mayo & Meek, Coventry

Page

vii
xi

XXV
XXV

Jeannot, Paul, London
Jones, T. Walter, Birmingham
Joseph, B. H., & Co,, Birmingham

Kettle, F. G., London

King & Sons, London

Klose & Zeuner, Silesia, Germany

Koritschoner, D., Loudon ..

Kullberg, V,, London

xxn
xxiii

xxvi

xxiii

xix

xxiv

XXX

xxii
xxvi
xxii
xxx
xiv
xx

KVlll

xvi
xxi
xv
,xv

xv
xiii

xxii
vii

iii
xxiv

xvii

xiii

viii

viii
v
iv

Lamb, H. T., London
Langdale, I., Whitby
Levi, S. M., Birmingham ..

Mander, H., & Co., Coventry
Meyer, Anton, Stuttgart
Millward, W., Birmingham. .
Mitchell & Cooper, Londou
Moore. Joseph, Birmingham
Mott, F., Birmingham

N
Newsome & Co., Coventry .,

O
Oliver, J. G., London
Oram, G., & Son, London . .

Parkes, S., & Sons, Birmingham ..

Pringle, Robert, & Co., London . .

Plucknett, C. J., & Co., Londou . .

Pontenet, Switzerland

Raphael, J., & Co., London. .
Reading, N. C, & Co., Birmingham
Ries, A , & Co., London
Robbias & Appleton, London
Rotherham & Sons, Coventry
Round, John, & Son, Sheffield
Round, B. J., Birmingham

Saunders & Shepherd, London
Scott, A., Birmingham
Sell, H., Loudon
Siegele and Bennett, London
Smith, J., & Son, Derby . .
Smith, T., & Co., London . .
Spencer, J., Birmingham
Spurrier and Co.. Birmingham
Starling, J. H.. Birmingham
Stauffer, Sou. & Co., London
Sturtevant, T. T., London ..
Swan, E., Birmingham
Swingewood, A., Birmingham
Sydenham, A , Birmingham

Taylor, .1. & FL, Birmingham
Thwaites Bros , London
Townshend & Co., Birmingham
Trippliu, J., London

xv
xxii

xvii

xiii

xxiv

xxiii

xiii

xi
xxv

xvii

xxviii

xii

xvi

XXV1L

xix

xxvi
xxiii

xxii

xvii

vi
vii
xv
ix

xvi
xx
xxi

xviii

Usher & Cole, Lonlou

Vale, Wm. & Sons, Birmingham

Vaughton, Birmingham

Vacheron & Coastantin, Geneva and Loudon

W
Walker. S.. Liverpool
Wall, T , Birmingham

Waltsr, W. H, London

Weill & Co , London

Westwood. C. & Sons, Birmingham
Whitton, T. M., and Sms, London
Wilkins, J., an I Co., Loudon
Willis, Mark, and Son. Sheffield
Winkles, W., Birmingham ..

xiii

xxii

XV
X

xiv
xviii

FOR SALE.— Eight Day Regulator, first-
class timekeeper, in handsome oak case.
Apply for further particulars to J. Radges and
Co., Butts, Coventry. (W. 233.)

TT7"ATCHMAKER'S, JEWELER'S, &c—
VV Wanted to apprentice a lad to above
trade in a market town, where all branches will
be taught. State terms to A.C., 27, Dover Road,
Borough, London, S.E. (VV. 236.)

-Tobacconists commencing. Illus-
ri trated Guide (3d.), " How to open
respectably, £20 to £1,000." TOBACCONISTS
OUTFITTING CO., 186, EustonRoad, London.
A prospectus on the Jewelry and Stationery
Trades free. Established 1866, Hy. Myers,
Manager.

January 1, 1802.]

THE WATCHMAKER, JEWELER AND SILVERSMITH.

XXV

NEW PATTERNS.

We beg to call

attention to the above

They are strong and

reliable,
the Pallets and Scape

Wheel are solid,

and the Bell rings very

much longer than

the ordinary alarms-

Well-finished Cases.
WHOLESALE ONLY FROM

T. ARMSTRONG

& Brothers.

Jf", Established 1825.
TURN OUT. ALL RIGHT.

4:, ST, MARY'S STREET, MANCHESTER.

The Largest Importers of Clocks in the Kingdom. Price Lists and Catalogues sent on receipt of Business Card.

Jlfciii^

ESTABLISHED 1848.

WATCH MANUFACTURER.

■¥

A LARGE ASSORTMENT
OF ENGLISH AND GENEVA
BATCHES IN STOCK.

TeeLp.

English
and Foreign
Watch Repairs of
every Description by
Experienced "Workmen op
the premises.

5, ST. JOHN SQUARE,
CLERKENWELL, LONDON*

Price Lists on Appu'-ation.

NO Jeweler or Silversmith should be -without the

E. S. PLATING SET

Complete in Case ready for use, with full
instructions,

PRICE 40s.

FOR FURTHER PARTICULARS, APPLY TO

ELECTRIC STORES, LTD.,

SHOWROOMS & WAREHOUSE: 10, BOW LANE.

Offices: 51, GANNON STREET, LONDON, E.G.

.5 w

•c o
ffl «

3 <
£* «>

u > W

£ § *
o S H

8* «

a <« O

« o w

m in fn

« (J W
O J

I « o
m

WATCH MANUFACTURERS AND IMPORTERS,

Wholesale and for Exportation.

:iFPI!RS INDENTS C-A.X&XSF'CTX.X.-

EXECUTED.

SPECIALITIES:

Chronographs, with Minute Recorders in Open Face and Hunting Cases (Gold, Silver and Nickel),

Interchangeable Levers and Horizontals in Gold, Silver, and Metal.
LARGE ASSORTMENT OF ALL KINDS OF KEYLESS AND NON-KEYLESS, IN CRYSTAL AND HUNTING CASES.

»»T»»»»»VX

FOREIGN BUYERS PLEASE NOTE OUR ADDRESS WHEN ORDERING.

45, HATTON GARDEN, LONDON, E.C.,

AND AT BIENNE, SWITZERLAND,

XXVI

THE WATCHMAKEE, JEWELER AND SILVERSMITH.

[January 1, 1892.

*\<?v\

lHy,V

far §rmnte, §rim§, fy.

ROYAL LEMON SQUEEZER.

THE COMBINATION SPIRIT,
CIGAR, 0 GAME CABINET.

In rich dark Oak, with handsome

Nickel Mounts.
Net Prices from £3 to ±14 14s. Od.

HANDSOME CUT-CLASS
PERFUME BOTTLES,

With Hall-marked chased

Silver Caps.

From 6/6 to £5 10s. Od.

"TANTALUS" SPIRIT
FRAME,

In rich dark Oak, with hand-
some Nickel Mounts.
Prices from 23/6 to ±10 10s. Od.

CHAPMAN, SON, & CO., Manufacturer
o ruAPTWPHnnsi? RTTTTnrxrnQ AT/nPRSfiAT

2, CHARTERHOUSE BUILDINGS, ALDERSGATE, LONDON, E.C.

(Two minutes' walk from Aldersgate Street Station).

Continental Address, 39, Bleich-Steasse, Pforzheim

Telegraphic Address, " Jewelry, London."

Diamond
Work,
gold.
Silver.

Mosaic.
Onyx.

Moonstone.

Enamel.

Renaissance

Watch

Bracelets

in Bold and

Silver.

iegele m H • J^ennett,

Manufacturers and Importers of British and Foreign Jewelry,

11, CHARTERHOUSE STREET, LONDON, E.C.

SOLE LICENSEES FOR GREAT BRITAIN, IRELAND, AND COLONIES

FOR THE

New Patent "Security Pin,"

( PATENT No. 17,437.

FOR BROOCHES AND SCARF PINSJ

" Simplicity
Itself."

Cannot be lost in wear, as \hook fixes itself into the material.
Not a Scarf Pin or Brooch of any value should remain without this

fastening1. Neater and far stronger than the old style.
C35-OI-33 -^3Sg"33 S53£:BV€7~S52E& OWLTT.

S, & B. HAVE THE FINEST STOCK OF BEST CLASS CONTINENTAL JEWELRY
IN THE KINGDOM, MOSTLY THEIR OWN PRODUCTION.

Goral.

Garnet.

Amber.

Filigree

Daisies.
Oxyd. Silver

and Bold.
But Silver.
Finest Paste

Brooches,
Rings,

Buckles,

Necklets.

January 1, 1892.]

THE WATCHMAKER, JEWELER AND SILVERSMITH.

XXVll

CHARL£S * W£STWOOD • AND * 60NS,

GOLD & SILVER REFINERS,

14, HALL STREET, BIEMINGHAM,

'Dealers in JEWELLERS' REQUISITES; and in Fine and Alloyed Gold and Silver, Sheets, Wires, Stampings, Beads,
Solders, &c. ; also Alloys, Refined Copper, &c. ; Coloured and Bright Gold Beads, and also in Silver

-BANGLE, COIL AND BELCHER BRACELETS DRAWN OR SPUN —
Bars, &c, containing Gold and Silver, assayed the same day.

— PHOTOGRAPHERS' WASTE AND JEWELLERS' AND DENTISTS' SWEEP PURCHASED AT FULL TALIIE. —

The Patent "SELF-CLOSING" Bracelet.

WILL FIT WRIST OF ANY SIZE. MOST COMFORTABLE IN WEAR.

IN WHATEVER POSITION PLACED ON ARM OR WRIST NEVER SLIPS.

CANNOT BE LOST, AS THERE IS NO SNAP TO COME UNFASTENED.

VARIETY OF PATTERNS IN 9 & 15-CARAT GOLD. ILLUSTRATED TRADE PRICE LISTS UPON APPLICATION.

Saunders & Shepherd, sole licencees for great Britain & Australasia.

The Patent

"One Piece" Studs &cUfr Buttons

Actual Size
'Collar* Stud.

SPECIAL ADVANTAGES I

1. UNBREAKABLE.

2. STRUCK FROM SINGLE DISC OF

METAL, THEREFORE NO SOLDER
USED.

3. Slipfed into button

hole with perfect

EASE.

MADE IN 9, 15 & 18 CARAT GOLD

AND

STERLING SILVER.

Actual Size
'Shirt* Stud.

Has almost entirely superseded the old hind —

which is made of several parts soldered

together.

Sole Licencees for Great Britain

JNDERS 8c SHEPE

NOTICE.— Immediate proceedings will be taken against anyone infringing either of the above patents.

if from ANY CAUSE a stud

SHOULD GET DAMAGED, A NEW

ONE W'U. BE GIVEN IN

EXCHANGE.

p ^ ~ ENLARGED VIEW OF COLLAR STUD

Saunders & Shepherd, bsrtletts pssssge buildings, holborn circus,

LONDON, E.C.

iKater to lfc Jtfmtiralin on* * V. KXJLLBE RG * *' ®anncii oi %Mt fat *"**»•
CHRONOMETER AND WATCH MANUFACTURER,

EVERY DESCRIPTION OF HIGH-GLASS KEYLESS AND ORDINARY WATCHES.

105, LIVERPOOL ROAD, LONDON, N.

AWARDED NINE GOLD MEDALS AND FOUR DIPLOPIAS OF HONOUR (HIGHEST AWARDS), and

The FIRST PRIZE, with the FREEDO.H OF THE CLOCKMAKERS' COMPANY of the CITY OF LONDON, TRIAL, XSSI, ami
the SECOND PRIZE for the FINEST CHRONOMETER ever tested at the ROYAL. ORSERVATOUY, 1SS2.

Chronometers with Mr. Kullberg's new Balances and other improvements have stood the First or Second FOURTEEN

times in the Eoyal Observatory at Greenwich, out of over 540 competing Chronometers.
At the Sydney Exhibition, 1880, two First-Class Awards were obtained; and although the Watches were not expected to be

entered for competitive trial, they obtained, at the Government Observatory at Sydney, higher marks than those of

any other Exhibitor.

XXVU1

THE WATCHMAKER, JEWELER AND SILVERSMITH.

[January 1, 1892.

PARIS 1889.

i>i ii;i.i>iii:i» 1SOO.

PARIS 1889.

&C&

CtlMlICl Fill

30, ELY PLACE, LONDON, E.C.,
MANUFACTURERS OF

Chronometers, Chronographs, Repeaters,

AND OTHER COMPLICATED WATCHES,

Awarded Silver Medal.

Collective Exhibits

Ii^IIff WATC

AS WELL AS VARIOUS GRADES OF

Factories at CHAUX-DE-FONDS and LES BOIS, SWITZERLAND.

Telegraphic Address :— " LES-BOIS, LONDON."

Patentees of Chronograph, Chronometer, Calendar, Memento, Alarm, and Album Watches. Specialities in Bijou and Bracelet Watches.

ESTABLISHED OVER HALF A CENTURY.

30, Ely Place, LONDON, e.g.,

Manufacturers of HIGH-CLASS CHRONOMETERS and KEYLESS WATCHES.

Speciality: The DOUBLE ROLLER ADJUSTED LEVER

Presentation Watches, with and without Kew A Certificate.

Minute Repeaters, Clock Watches, Perpetual Calendars, and every kind of Complicated Watch in Stock.

LlBIlSy MIIIATURE WATCHES,

Telegraphic Address : "CJLKXEY, XOaHDOar."

QOUE^Y and

INTERCHANGEABLE CASES,

EXTRA DURABLE

AND DUST PROOF.

<?¥¥si>

ALL GRADES

ENGLISH

LEVER WATCHES,

KEYLESS

AND

NON-KEYLESS.

Illustrate (&pma$nt% anft f)rk£ lists sttpplkfr ta tfo> ®rato.

Printed and Published by Heywood & Company, Ld., 68, Fleet Street, London, E.C.

May 2, 1892.]

THE WATCHMAKER, JEWELER AND SILVERSMITH.

XXVI

CHARTS * W£8TW00D * AND * S0N6,

GOLD & SILVER REFINERS,

14, HALL 8TEEET, B I E ]VE X 1ST Gr H A M,

Dealers in JEWELLERS' REQUISITES, and in Fine and Alloyed Gold and Silver, Sheets, Wires, Stampings, Beads,
Solders, etc. ; also Alloys, Refined Copper, etc. ; Coloured and Bright Gold Beads, and also in Silver

-BANGLE, COIL AND BELCHER BRACELETS DRAWN OR SPUNi -
Bars, &c, containing Gold and Silver, assayed the same day.

PHOTOGRAPHERS' WASTE AND JEWI-:r,r,KKS' AND DENTISTS' SWEEP PURCHASED AT CVIili VALVE. —

The Patent "SELF-CLOSING" Bracelet.

-9

WILL FIT WRIST OF ANY SIZE. MOST COMFORTABLE IN WEAR.

IN WHATEVER POSITION PLACED ON ARM OR WRIST NEVER SLIPS.

CANNOT BE LOST, AS THERE IS NO SNAP TO COME UNFASTENED.

VARIETY OF PATTERNS IN 9 & 15-CARAT GOLD. ILLUSTRATED TRADE PRICE LISTS UPON APPLICATION.

Saunders & Shepherd, sole licencees for great Britain & Australasia.

The Patent

"One Piece" Studs &

Cuff Buttons.

Actual Size
'Collar- Stud.

special advantages:

UNBREAKABLE.
Struck from Single Disc of
metal, therefore no solder

USED.

Slipfed into Button
hole with perfect

EASE.

MADE IN 9, 15 & 18 CARAT GOLD

AND

STERLING SILVER.

Actual Size
'Shirt' Stud.

Has almost entirely superseded the old hind—

which is made of several parts soldered

together.

if from ANY CAUSE a stud

SHOULD GET DAMAGED, A NEW

ONE WILL BE GIVEN IN

EXCHANGE.

Sole Licencees for Great Britain :

f\ — ^ ENLARGED VIEW OF collar: stud

Saunders & Shepherd, bsrtlett-s passage buildings, holborn circus,

LONDON, E.C.

NOTICE. — Immediate proceedings will be taken against anyone infringing either of the above patents.

Jtafor ta ft* JLtorardtg an* * V # KULLBERG * tIj' ®anntil of %Mt iax Snbia*
CHRONOMETER AND WATCH MANUFACTURER,

EVERY DESCRIPTION OF HIGH-CLASS KEYLESS AND ORDINARY WATCHES.

105, LIVERPOOL ROAD, LONDON, N.

AWARDED NINE GOLD MEDALS AND FOUR DIPLOMAS OF HONOUR (HIGHEST AWARDS), and

The FIRST PRIZE, with the FREEDOM OF THE ( l,<H Kll UiEBS' COMPANY o< the CI'FV OF LONDON, TRIAL, 1881, and
the SECOND PRIZE for the FINEST CHRONOMETER ever tested at the ROYAL ORSERVATOK V, 1882.

Chronometers with Mr. Ktjxlbero's new Balances and other improvements have stood the First or Second FOURTEEN

entered for competitive trial, they obtained, at the Government Observatory at Sydney, higher marks than those of

any other Exhibitor.

XXY11

THE WATCHMAKER, JEWELER AND SILVERSMITH.

[May 2, 1892.

PARIS 1889.

ESTABLISHED I860.

PARIS 1889.

cirsmi&iics wmmmwBf

30, ELY PLACE, LONDON, E.C.,
MANUFACTURERS OF

Chronometers, Chronographs, Repeaters,

^lpwrdseiV?heeGsrwa,nsds AND OTHER COMPLICATED WATCHES,

Collective Exhibits. '

AS WELL AS VARIOUS GRADES OF

PLAIN "OTr.A.^C'CBXSfS., KEYLESS ANI

Factories at CHAUX-DE-FONDS and LES BOIS, SWITZERLAND.

Telegraphic Address :— '" LES-BOTS, LONDON."

Patentees of Chronograph, Chronometer, Calendar, Memento, Alarm, and Album Watches, Specialities in Bijou and Bracelet Watches.

Awarded Silver Medal.

•9

ESTABLISHED OVER HALF A CENTURY.

30, Ely Place, LONDON, e.g.,

Manufacturers of HIGH-CLASS CHRONOMETERS and KEYLESS WATCHES.

Speciality: The DOUBLE ROLLER ADJUSTED LEVER

Presentation Watches, with and without Kew A Certificate.

Minute Repeaters, Clock Watches, Perpetual Calendars, and every kind of Complicated Watch in Stock.

LADIES5 IIII1TU1I IlT€IEis

Telegraphic Address : "CABIXY, lORDO!?."

QOUEj^Y

INTERCHANGEABLE CASES,

EXTRA DURABLE

AND DUST PROOF.

EVERY Vi

ALL GRADES

ENGLISH
LEVER WATCHES,
• KEYLESS

AND

NON-KEYLESS.

/Stllnztxskb (&atetfgnt% attfc $ ritt lists supplier to i\)t tote.

Printed and Published by Heywood & Compaky. Ld., 68, Fleet Street, London, B.C.

SMITHSONIAN INSTITUTION LIBRARIES

3 9088 01549 0691

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