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J  1 


A^D 


0  „    B^mEKER'S  GUIDE  feoOKS. 

Austria- Hungary,  including  Dalmatia,  Bosnia,  Bucharest.  Belgrade, 
•  yfmd  Moptmjfgrp.  With  33  Maps  and  44  Plans.  Tenth  edition. 
^1905    .   ... 8  marks 

The  Eastcn/  Alps,  including  the  Bavarian  Highlands.  Tyrol,  Salzburg", 
Upper  and  Lower  Austria,  Styria,  Carinthia,  and  Carniola.  With 
53  -Maps,  10  Plans,  and  7  Panoramas.  Tenth  edition.  1903.  10  marks 

Belgium  and  Holland  including  the  Grand-Duchy  of -Luxem- 
bourg. Wit  15  Maps  and  30  Plans.  Fourteenth  edition.  1905.  0  marks 

The  Dominion  of  Canada,  with  Newfoundland  and  an  Excursion 
to  Alaska.  With  10  Maps  and  7  Plans.  Second  edition.  1900.  5  marks 

Constantinople  and  Asia  Minor,  in  German  only : 

Komttniinopel    und   Kleinasien   nebst  den  Hauptrouten  dure! 
Balkanhalbinscl  und  einem  Ausflug  auf  der  Anatolischen  /la/in. 
Mit  (.i  Karten,  34  Pliinen  und  Grundrissen.  1905 (i  marks 

Denmark  see  Norway,  Sweden,  and  Denmark. 

Egypt,  Lower  and  Upper  Egypt,  Lower  and  Upper  Nubia,  and  the 
Suddn.  With  23  Maps.  66  Plans,  and  59  Vignettes.  Fifth  edition. 
1902 15  marks 

England  see  Great  Britain. 

Prance : 

Paris  and  its  Environs,  with  Routes  from  London  to  Paris.   With 

13  Maps  and  38  Plans.   Fifteenth  edition.  1904 6  marks 

Northern  France  from  Belgium  and  the  English  Channel  to  the  Loire 

excluding  Paris  and  its  Environs.    With  13  Maps -and  40  Plans. 

Fourth  edition.  1905 7  marks 

Southern  France  from  the  Loire  to  the  Pyrenees.  Auvergne.  the 

Cevennes,  the  French  Alps,  the  Rhone  Valley,  Provence,  the  French 

Riviera,  and  Corsica.   With  30  Maps,  36  Plans,  and  a  Panorama. 

Fourth  edition.  1902 9  marks 

Germany : 

Berlin   and  its  Environs.    With  6  Maps  and  18  Plans.  Second  edition. 

l'.in.-) 3  marks 

Northern  Germany  as  far  as  the  Bavarian   and  Austrian  frontiers. 

With  49  Maps  and  75  Plans.  Fourteenth  edition.  1904    .  .  8  marks 
Southern  Germany  (Wurtemberg  and  Bavaria).   With  22  Maps  and 

16  Plans.  Ninth  edition.  1902 6  marks 

The  Rhine  from  Rotterdam  to  Constance,  including  the  Seven  Mountains, 

the  Moselle,  the  Volcanic  Eifel,  the  Taunus.    the  Odenwald  and 

Heidelberg,   the  Vosges   Mountains,  the   Black  Forest,  etc.    With 

52  Maps  and  29  Plans.  Sixteenth  edition.  1906 7  marks 


Great  Britain.  England,  Wales,  and  Scotland.  Willi  22  Maps, 
58  Plans,  and  a  Panorama.  Sixth  edition.  1906 10  marks 

London  and  its  Environs.  With  4  Maps  and  24  Plans.  Fourteenth 
edition.  190.")     6  marks  - 

■Greece,  the  Greek  Islands,  and  anExcursion  to  Crete.  With  1 1  Maps, 

•    25  Plans,  and  a  Panorama  of  Athens.    Third  edition.   1905.  8  marks 

Holland  see  Belgium  and  Holland. 

Italy : 

/.  Northern  Italy,  including  Leghorn,  Florence,  Ravenna,  and  Routes 

through  Switzerland  and  Austria.    With  30  Maps   and   40  Plans. 

Thirteenth  edition.  1906 8  marks 

II.  Central  Italy  and  Borne.  With  14  Maps,  49  Plans,  a  Panorama 
of  Rome,  a  view  of  the  Forum  Romanum,  and  the  Arms  of  the 
Popes  since  1417.  Fourteenth  edition.  1904 7  marks  50  pf. 

III.  Southern.  Italy  and  Sicily,  with  Excursions  to  the  Lipari  Islands, 
Malta,  Sardinia,  Tunis,  and  Corfu.  With  27  Maps  and  24  Plans. 
Fourteenth  edition.  1903 6  marks 

Italy  from  the  Alps  to  Naples.  With  26  Maps  and  44  Plans. 
1904 8  marks 

Norway,  Sweden,  and  Denmark,  including  an  Excursion  to 
Spitzbergen .    With  37  Maps,   28  Plans,   and  3  Panoramas.    Eighth- 
edition.i$»03     8  marks 

Palesrfme  and  Syria,  including  the  principal  routes  through  Meso- 
potamia and  Babylonia.  With  20  Maps,  52  Plans,  and  a  Panorama 
of  Jerusalem.  Fourth  edition.  1906 12  marks 

Portugal  see  Spain  and  Bortugal. 

Riviera  see  Southern  France. 

Russia,  in  German  or  French  only : 

linfiland.  Europ.  RuBland,  Eisenbahnen  in  Russ.-Asien,  Teheran,  Pe- 
king. Mit  20  Karten,  40  Planen  u.  11  Grundr.  6.Aufl.  1904.  15  marks 

Bnssischer  Sprachfiihrer.  4.  Aufl.  1903 1  mark 

Bussie.  Avec  19  cartes  et  32  plans.  3e  edition.  1902    ....  15  marks 

Manuel  de  langue  Busse.  3e  edition.  1903 1  mark 

Scotland  see  Great  Britain. 

Spain  and  Portugal,  with  Excursions  to  Tangier  and  the  Balearic 
Islands.  With  7  Maps  and  47  Plans.  Second  edition.  1901.  16  marks 

Switzerland  and  the  adjacent  portions  of  Italy,  Savoy,  and  Tyrol. 
With  63  Maps,  17  Plans,  and  11  Panoramas.  Twenty-first  edition. 
1905 8  marks 

Tyrol  see  The  Eastern  Alps. 

The  United  States,  with  an  Excursion  into  Mexico.  With  25  Maps 
and  35  Plans.  Third  edition.  1904     12  marks 


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PALESTINE 

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WITH  THE  CHIEF  ROUTES  THROUGH  MESOPOTAMIA^1!) 
BABYLONIA 


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HANDBOOK  FOR  TRAVELLER 


KARL  BAEDEKER 


WITH  20  MAPS,  52  PLANS,  AND  A  PANORAMA  OF  JERUSALEM 


FOURTH  EDITION",  REMODELLED  AND  AUGMENTED 


LEIPZIG:  KARL  BAEDEKER,   PUBLISHER 

LONDON:  DULAU  AND  CO.,  37  SOHO  S^UARI^  W. 
NEW  YORK:  CHAHLES  SCRIBNERS  SONS,  15.J  FIFTH    WE  « 

1906 

All  Uights  Reserved 


/ 


'Go,  little  book,  God  send  thee  good  passage, 
And  specially  let  this  he  thy  prayere 
Unto  them  all  that  thee  will  read  or  hear, 

here  thou  art  wrong,  after  their  help  to  call, 

ee  to  correct  in  any  part  or  all.' 


THE  GETTY  CENTER 
LIBRARY 


PREFACE. 


Palestine  and  Syria  can  hardly  be  considered  as  tourist 
resorts  in  the  ordinary  sense  of  the  term.  The  country  offers 
littl  e  of  scenic  beauty.  The  glory  of  colouring  that  charac- 
teri.zes  the  Orient  is  seen  to  greater  advantage  in  Egypt. 
The  chief  attraction  of  a  visit  to  Palestine  lies  in  its  historical 
associations,  and  the  main  object  of  the  Handbook  is  to  bear 
faitlhful  and  accurate  witness  to  these  on  the  spot  itself.  At 
the  same  time  it  endeavours  to  give,  as  far  as  is  possible 
within  the  limits  of  a  guide-book,  a  comprehensive  and  ac- 
curate account  of  the  present  state  of  the  exploration  of 
Palestine.  The  first  edition  of  the  Handbook  appeared ,  in 
German,  in  1875;  its  writer  was  Dr.  Albert  Socin  (cL  1899), 
late  Professor  of  Oriental  Languages  at  Leipzig.  Jrae  pre- 
sent is  the  Fourth  English  edition  and  is  based  on  the  sixth 
Gernnan  edition,  which,  like  the  third,  fourth,  and  fifth,  was 
prepared  by  Dr.  Immanuel  Benzinger,  who  has  made  his  home 
in  Jerusalem  and  by  repeated  journeys  through  the  Holy  Land 
has  'obtained  an  exceptional  knowledge  of  the  country.  The 
new  section  on  Mesopotamia  and  Babylonia  has  been  revised 
and  supplemented  by  the  Rev.  Dr.  John  P.  Peters  of  New  York. 
While  the  greatest  pains  have  been  taken  to  ensure  ac- 
curacy, the  Editor  is  well  aware  of  the  constant  fluctuation 
to  wflrich  many  of  the  data  in  the  Handbook  are  liable.  He 
will  therefore  highly  appreciate  any  corrections  or  suggestions 
with  which  travellers  may  favour  him,  especially  if  the  result 
of  th<eir  own  observation.  The  information  already  received 
from  numerous  correspondents,  which  he  gratefully  acknow- 
ledges, has  in  many  cases  proved  most  serviceable. 

Tlhe  contents  of  the  Handbook  are  divided  into  Six  Sec- 
tions (I.  Jerusalem  and  its  Environs;  II.  Judaea,  the  Country 
east  of  the  Jordan,  Southern  Palestine,  and  the  Peninsula  of 
Sinai ;  III.  Samaria,  Galilee,  Phoenicia;  IV.  The  Lebanon. 
Central  Syria;  V.  Northern  Syria;  VI.  Mesopotamia  and  Baby- 
lonia);, each  of  which  may  be  separately  removed  from  the 
book  by  the  traveller  who  desires  to  minimize  the  bulk  of  his 
lugga;ge.  To  each  section  is  prefixed  a  list  of  the  routes  it  con- 
tains, so  that  each  forms  an  approximately  complete  volume 
apart  from  the  general  table  of  contents  and  the  general  index. 


?^5^ 


PREFACE. 


The  Maps  and  Plans  have  been  an  object  of  the  Editor's 
special  care.  Of  these  no  less  than  twenty-four,  including  the 
large  panorama  of  Jerusalem,  have  been  redrawn,  or  appear 
for  the  first  time  in  the  present  edition.  At  the  end  of  the  book 
will  be  found  a  clue-map  indicating  the  ground  covered  by 
the  special  maps  distributed  throughout  the  volume. 

Arabic  names  are  in  general  transliterated  on  the  system 
explained  at  p.  xxxii,  except  in  the  case  of  such  established 
historical  forms  as  Jaffa,  Ascalon,  Acre,  etc. 

Heights  (above  the  sea-level)are  given  inEnglish  feet,  from 
the  most  recent  and  trustworthy  English  and  other  sources. 

The  Prices  and  various  items  of  expenditure  mentioned 
in  the  Handbook  are  stated  in  accordance  with  the  Editor's 
own  experience,  or  from  the  bills  furnished  to  him  by  travellers. 
It  must,  however,  be  observed  that  they  are  liable  to  very 
great  fluctuations,  being  influenced  by  the  state  of  trade,  the 
increased  or  diminished  influx  of  foreigners,  the  traveller's  own 
demeanour,  and  a  number  of  other  circumstances.  It  may 
therefore  happen  in  some  cases  that  the  traveller's  expenditure 
will  be  below  the  rate  indicated  in  the  Handbook;  but  for  so 
long  a  Journey,  on  which  so  many  unexpected  contingencies 
i^ay  aH»e,an  ample  pecuniary  margin  should  always  be  allowed. 

Hotels,  etc.,  see  p.  xvi.  Hotels  which,  in  the  Editor's 
opinion,  cannot  be  accurately  characterized  without  exposing 
htm  to  the  risk  of  legal  proceedings,  are  left  uumentioned, 
except  when  there  is  no  other  available  accommodation. 

To  hotel-proprietors,  tradesmen,  and  others  the  Editor  begs 
to  intimate  that  a  character  for  fair  dealing  and  courtesy  to- 
wards travellers  forms  the  sole  passport  to  his  commendation, 
and  that  advertisements  of  every  kind  are  strictly  excluded 
from  his  Handbooks.  Hotel-keepers  are  also  warned  against 
persons  representing  themselves  as  agents  for  Baedeker's 
Handbooks. 


Abbreviations. 

hr.  =  hour(of  riding;  i.e.  about  3M.). 

PI.      =  plan. 

min.  =  minute. 

E.       =  route,  room. 

M.      =  English  mile. 

pens.  =  pension  (board  and  lodging). 

ft.      =  English  foot. 

fir.        =  franc. 

N.      s=  north,  northwards,  northern. 

c.        =  centime. 

S.      =  south,  etc. 

K.        =  krone  (Austrian  currency) 

E.     =  east,  etc. 

h.        =  heller  (       „               „        ) 

W.    =  west,  etc. 

mcj.    =  mejidi. 

ca.,  c.  =  circa,  about. 

pi.       =  piastre. 

Mt.    =  mountain. 

pa.      =  para. 

P.E  F.  =  Palestine.  Exploration  Fund  (p.  xoviii). 

ZI>PV.  =  Zeitschrift  des  Deutschen  Palastina-Vereins  (p.  xcviii). 

Asterisks  arc  used  as  marks  of  commendation. 

CONTENTS. 


Page 

I.     Preliminary  Information xi 

A.  Travelling  Expenses.   Season.   Companions.  Plan 

of  Tour xi 

B.  Hotels.    Monasteries.    Hospitality.    Khans  .    .    .  xvi 

C.  Mode  of  Travelling xvii 

D.  Equipment.    Health xxi 

E.  Money.    Passports  and  Custom  House.   Consulates  xxii 

F.  Post  Office  and  Telegraph xxiv 

G.  Public  Safety.    Weapons.    Escorts xxv 

H.  Intercourse  with  Orientals xxvi 

I.    Tobacco.    Coffee  Houses.    Baths xxix 

II.    The  Arabic  Language xxxi 

III.  Geographical  Notice xlvii 

Climate xlix 

Geology li 

Flora  and  Agriculture «lii,  liii 

Fauna lv 

Political  Divisions lvii 

IV.  Population.    Religions.    Costumes  and  Customs    .    .  lviii 
V.     Doctrines  of  El-Islam lxv 

VI.    History  of  Palestine  and  Syria lxxv 

Chronological  Table lxxxvi 

VII.  History  of  Art  in  Syria xciii 

VIII.  Works  on  Palestine  and  Syria xcviii 

Route 

1.  Approaches  to  Palestine 1 

I.  Jerusalem  and  its  Environs. 

2.  Jaffa 6 

3.  From  Jaffa  to  Jerusalem 11 

4.  Jerusalem 19 

5.  Emvirons  of  Jerusalem 72 

II.  Jud^ia,  the  Country  east  of  the  Jordan,  Southern  Pales- 
tine, and  the  Peninsula  of  Sinai. 

6.  From  Jerusalem  to  the  Monastery  of  the  Cross,  Philip's 
Well,  and  Bittir 92 

7.  From  Jerusalem  to  fAin  Karim 93 

8.  From  Jerusalem  to  En-Nebi  Samwil  and  El-Kubeibeh 
(Eimmaus) 95 

9.  From  Jerusalem  to  fAnata/Ain  Fara,  Jebar,  and  Makhmas      97 


vlii 


CONTENTS. 


Route  Pyge 

10.  From  Jerusalem  to  Bethlehem 99 

11.  From  Jerusalem  to  the  Pools  of  Solomon  and  the  Frank 
Mountain 108 

12.  From  Jerusalem  to  Hehron Ill 

13.  From  Hebron  to  Beit  Jibrin  and  Gaza 116 

14.  From  Gaza  to  Jerusalem  via  Ascalon 121 

15.  From  Jerusalem  to  Jericho,  the  Jordan,  and  the  Dead  Sea  125 

16.  From  Jericho  to  Es-Salt  and  Jerash 136 

17.  From  Jerash  to  El-Kerak  via  'Amman  and  Madeba  .    .    .  142 

18.  From  Damascus  to  El-Maran  (Hejaz  Railway) 151 

19.  The  Hauran .' 154 

20.  The  Desert  of  Judah  to  the  S.W.  of  the  Dead  Sea    .    .    .  169 

21.  Petra 174 

22.  The  Peninsula  of  Sinai 184 

III.  Samaria,  Galileb,  Phoenicia. 

23.  From  Jerusalem  to  Nabulus  (Shechem) 211 

24.  From  Nabulus  to  Jenin  and  Haifa 220 

25.  Haifa  and  its  Environs 225 

26.  From  Haifa  to  Jaffa  via  rAthlit  and  Caesarea 231 

27.  Fiom  Haifa,  to  Damascus  by  Railway 235 

28.  From  Haifa  to  Nazareth 237 

29.  From  Jenin  to  Nazareth  via  Zer'in  and  Sulcin      ....  239 

30.  Nazareth 241 

31.  From  Nazareth  to  Tiberias 244 

32.  From  Tiberias  to  Tell  Hum  and  Safed 251 

33.  From  Safed  to  Damascus  via  Baniyas 257 

34.  From  Haifa  to  Beirut  by  Land  via  Tyre  and  Sidon    .    .     .  264 

35.  Beirut  and  its  Environs    .    .    .    .' 274 

IV.  Thb  Lbbanon.   Central  Syria. 

36.  From  Sidon  to  Hasbeiya  and  Rasheiya.   Mount  Ilermon  .  285 

37.  Railway  from  Beirut  to  Damascus 291 

38.  Damascus 294 

39.  From  Damascus  to  Ba'albek 318 

40.  From  Ba'albek  to  Tripoli  and  Beirut  via  the  Cedars  of 
Lebanon 327 

41.  From  Damascus  (or  Horns)  to  Palmyra     . 337 

V.  Northern  Syria. 

42.  From  Tripoli  to  El-Ladikiyeh  by  the  Coast 351 

43.  From  Beirut  to  Alexandretta  and  Mersina  by  Sea     .    .     .  360 

44.  From  Alexandretta  to  Aleppo 362 

45.  Railway  from  Reyak  (Beirut,  Damascus)  to  Horns  and  llama  364 

46.  Aleppo 373 

47.  From  Aleppo  to  Alexandretta  via  Antioch 381 


MAPS. 


ix 


Route                  VI.  Mesopotamia  anu  Babylonia.  Page 

48.  From  Aleppo  to  Urfa  (Edessa) 396 

49.  From  Urfa  to  Diarbekr 399 

60.   From  Diarbekr  to  Mosul 401 

51.  From  M6sul  to  Baghdad 404 

62.  Baghdad.    Babylon.    From  Baghdad  to  Basra 400 

63.  From  Aleppo  to  Baghdad  along  the  line  of  the  Euphrates  411 
Index       413 


LIST  OF  MAPS. 


10. 

ll. 

12. 

13. 
14. 
15. 
16. 
17. 
18. 
19. 
30. 


Map  of  the  Environs  op  Jaffa  (1 :  50  000),  p.  8. 

Map  ok  Southern  Palestine  (1 :  700,000),  p.  10. 

Map  op  the  Immediate  Environs  op  Jerusalem  (1 :  25,000),  p.  72. 

Map  of  the  Highlands  of  Jud.ka  (1:400  000),  p.  92. 

Map  of  the   Country    to  the  S.  of  Damascus,   with  the    Haukan 

(1 :  700  000),  p.  150. 
Map  of  Arabia  Pktiuea  (1 :  700  000),  p.  175. 
Map  of  the  Peninsula  of  Sinai  (1  : 1,500,000),  p.  184. 
Map  of  the  Environs  of  Mt.  Sinai  and  Mt.  Sekbal  (1:250,000),  p.  190. 
Map  of  the  Environs  of  the  Monaster!   of  Mt.  Sinai  and  of  tub 

Jebel  MOsa  (1 :  50,000),  p.  193. 
Map  of  Northern  Palestine  (1  :  700,000),  p.  2':0. 
Map  of  the  N.  Part  of  Mount  Carmel  (1 :  150,000),  p.  227. 
Map   of  the  Country  between  Nazareth  and  Tiberias  (1:400  000), 

p.  245. 
Map  of  the  Environs  of  Ttre  (Sur;  1 :  50  000),  p.  267. 
Map  of  the  Environs  of  Sidon  (Saul  it;  1:50,000),  p.  273. 
Map  of  the  Environs  of  Beirut  (1:200,000),  p.  1280. 
Map  of  Southern  Lebanon  (1 :  500  000),  p.  280. 
Map  of  the  Environs  of  Damascus  (1 :  250,000),  p.  316. 
Map  of  Nouthern  Lebanon  (1:500,000),  p.  326. 
Map  of  Syria,  Mesopotamia,  and  Babylonia  (1  :  10,000,000),  p.  389. 
Map  showing  Routes  through  Syria   (and  Extent  of  Special  Maps; 

1  : 3,000,000),  after  the  Index. 


PLANS. 


1.  Ground  Plan  of  an  Arabian  Bath,  p.  xxx. 

2.  Jaffa  (1 :  14,500),  p.  9. 

3.  Jerusalem  (1 :  8350),  p.  19.  — 4.  Ancient  Jerusalem  (1 :  15,500),  p.  SO.  — 

5.  Church  of  the  Holy  Sepulchre,  p.  37.  —  6.  Muristan  with  tub 
Church  of  the  Redeemer,  p.  46.  —  7.  Haram  esh-Sher!f  (1:  5001)), 
p.  51.  —  8.  Kubbet  es-Sakhha  (Dome  of  the  Rock),  p.  54.  — 
9.  El-Aksa  Mosque,  p.  59'.  —  10.  Profile  Section  of  the  Hill  of 
the  Temple,  p.  £6.  —  11.  En-Nebi  DaOd  and  the  Dormition,  p.  71.  — 
12.  Tomb  of  the  Virgin,  p.  74.  —  13.  Chapel  of  the  Ascension, 
p.  77.  —  14.  Tombs  of  the  Prophets,  p.  79.  —  15.  Tomb  of  Ab- 
salom, p.  80.  —  16.  Grotto  op  St.  James,  p.  81.  —  17.  Cotton 
Grotto,  p.  86.  —  18.  Tombs  of  the  Kings,  p.  88.  —  19.  Tombs 
of  the  Judges,  p.  89. 


x  PLANS. 

20.  Bethlehem  (1 :  16,250),  p.  101.  —  21.  Church  of  the  Nativity,  p.  102. 
—  22.  Grotto  of  the  Nativity,  p.  104. 

23.  Hebron  (El-KiialIl;  1:15.000),  p.  113. 

24.  Jerash  (Gerasa;  1:12,500),  p.  138. 

25.  'Amman  (Philadelphia;  1  : 22,500),  p.  143. 

26.  'Arak  el-EmIr  (1 :  10,000),  p.  145. 

27.  Madeba  (1 :  13,333).  p   147. 

28.  Bosra  (Bostra;  1:35  000),  p.  162. 

29.  El-Kanawat  (1 :  15,000),  p.  165. 

30.  Mas'ada  (Sebbeh-,  1:20,000),  p.  171. 

31.  Petra  (Wadi  JICsa;  1:12.503),  p.  176. 

32.  Mines  of  Maghara.  p.  190. 

33.  Nabulus  (Shechemi  1:40,000),  p.  217. 

34.  Haifa  (1 :  18,300),  p.  225. 

35.  Environs  of  Acre  ('Akka;  1:50,000),  p.  229. 
3D.  C^sarea  (1 :  21,000),  p.  233. 

37.  Nazareth  (En-Nasira;  1: 11,000),  p.  241.  —  38.  Crtpt  ok  the  Church 
of  thi:  Annunciation,  p.  243. 

39.  Saida  (Sidon;  1:50.000),  p.  271. 

40.  Beirut  (1 :  25,000),  between  pp.  274,  275.  —  41.  Old  Town  and  Bazaar 

(1 :  10000),  between  pp.  274,  275. 

42.  Damascus  (1 :  34.000),  between  pp.  294, 295.  —  43.  Inner  Town  (1 :  10.500), 
p.  301. 

44.  Acropolis  of  Ba'albek  (1 :  2170),  p.  320. 

45.  Cedars  of  Lebanon,  p.  329. 

46.  Tripoli  (TarabulOs)  and  El-JTina  (1:45,000),  p.  331. 

47.  Palmyra  (1:27,000),   p.  341.  —  48.  Eastern  Portico   of  the  Great 

Colonnade,  p.  343. 

49.  Seleccia  (1 :  50.000),  p.  359. 

50.  Aleppo  (1 :  30,000),  p.  374. 

51.  Kal'at  Sim'an,  p.  373. 

52.  Antakiyeh  (Antioch;  1:50,000),  p.  384. 


Panorama  of  Jerusalem  from  the  Jit.  of  Olives,  between  pp.  76,  77. 


The  followingArabic  words  (comp.  vocabulary,  pp.  xxxvii  et  seq.)  are  of 
frequent  occurrence:  — 


'Ain,  spring. 

Ard,  earth. 

Bdb,  gate. 

Bahr,  lake. 

Beied,  village. 

Beit,  house. 

Btr,  well. 

Birkeh,  pool. 

Burj,  tower. 

Bahr,  mountain-ridge. 

Beir,  monastery, convent. 


Derb,  way,  street. 

Jebel,  mountain. 

Jisr,  bridge. 

Kabr,  tomb. 

Raft',  village. 

Kal'a,  castle,  citadel. 

Karya,  village. 

Katr,  castle,  tower. 

K/idn,  caravanserai. 

Khirbeh,  ruin. 

Mdr,  saint  (Christian). 


Aferj,  meadow. 
Mughdva,  cavern. 
Nahr,  river. 

Nebi,   prophet   (Moham- 
medan). 
Nekb,  pass. 

Rds,  promontory,  peak. 
Sheikh,  lord,  saint. 
Tell,  hill. 
Wddi,  valley. 
Weli,  tomb  of  saint. 


I.    Preliminary  Information. 

A.    Travelling  Expenses.    Season.    Companions.   Plan  of  Tour. 

Expenses.  —  The  cost  of  travelling  in  the  East  is  considerably 
greater  than  in  Europe.  Europeans  will  find  so  many  unwonted 
requirements  absolutely  essential  to  their  comfort,  that  the  most 
economically  arranged  tour  cannot  be  otherwise  than  expensive. 
The  average  daily  expenses  in  the  towns  of  the  Orient  during  the 
chief  travelling  season  (comp.  below)  amount  to  at  least  25-30  fr., 
including  board  and  lodging,  guides,  horses,  and  gratuities.  A 
tour  through  the  country  with  a  dragoman  and  tents  (p.  xvii)  will 
cost  a  single  traveller  90-100  fr.  a  day,  two  travellers  60-70  fr. 
each,  three,  50-55  fr.  each,  a  party  of  four  to  six,  40-45  fr.  each. 
Those  who  travel  without  a  tent  and  are  content  with  somewhat 
simpler  fare  may  reduce  these  charges  by  about  30-35  per  cent.  In 
summer  and  autumn  the  prices  are  10  per  cent  lower.  None  of  the 
above  prices  includes  wine,  and  the  cost  of  the  journey  to  and  fro 
must  also  be  added  to  the  estimate. 

Letters  of  Credit  or  Circular  Notes  form  the  safest  mode  of 
carrying  large  sums  of  money.  They  must,  however,  be  issued  by 
important  banking-houses  which  have  direct  intercourse  with  the 
Orient.  The  Credit  Lyonnais,  the  Deutsche  Palastinabank  at  Berlin, 
and  the  Banque  Jmperiale  Ottomane  (London  Office,  26  Throg- 
morton  Street,  E.  C.)  are  in  correspondence  with  most  of  the  prin- 
cipal banks  in  Europe,  and  have  offices  or  agencies  at  Damascus, 
Beirut,  Jerusalem,  and  most  of  the  larger  towns  of  Syria.  These 
offices  and  agents,  however,  will  not  pay  money  unless  they  are 
mentioned  by  name  in  the  letter  of  credit.  Travellers  should 
therefore  be  careful  to  see  that  this  is  done.  Other  European 
banking- firms  are  mentioned  in  the  text  in  describing  the  towns 
at  which  they  have  agencies.  Beirut,  being  the  focus  of  the  trade, 
of  Syria,  affords  more  facilities  in  this  matter  than  any  other  place 
in  the  country. 

Season.  —  Spring,  from  the  beginning  of  March  to  the  middle 
of  June,  and  autumn,  from  September  to  the  end  of  October,  are 
the  best  seasons  for  visiting  Syria.  The  greatest  influx  of  trav- 
ellers takes  place  at  Easter,  at  which  season  Jerusalem  is  crowded 
with  tourists  and  pilgrims.  In  spring  the  scenery  is  in  perfection 
and  the  vegetation  fresh  and  vigorous,  while  in  autumn,  on  the 
other  hand,  travelling  is  less  expensive.  If  autumn  be  chosen,  the 
tour  should  be  begun  from  the  North,  where  the  mountains  afford  a 
refuge  from  occasional  hot  days,  while  the  traveller  in  spring  should 
reserve  Lebanon  for  the  end  of  his  journeyings.  A  visit  to  Pal- 
estine, should  not  be  begun  before  the  middle  or  end  of  March,  as 
rainy  days  in  that  month  are  still  frequent,   and  travelling  hardly 


PLAN  OF  TOUR. 


■becomes  enjoyable  till  April.  Among  the  mountainous  districts  ex- 
cursions are  practicable  up  to  the  end  of  June. 

Companions.  —  Travelling  alone  in  the  East,  at  least  for  any 
length  of  time,  is  much  more  expensive  than  for  members  of  a 
party,  and  is  also  apt  to  become  very  tiresome,  particularly  in  the 
country  districts  remote  from  towns  and  hotels.  Even  those  who 
can  speak  Arabic  and  are  familiar  with  the  native  customs  will 
speedily  be  wearied  by  the  stereotyped  questions  of  the  people  with 
whom  he  comes  in  contact.  Pleasant  company  will  do  much  to  ob- 
viate the  monotony  of  travel  and  induce  forgetfulness  of  fatigue  and 
vexation.  During  the  season,  the  single  traveller  will  have  no  diffi- 
culty in  meeting  with  other  travellers  in  the  same  position,  and 
parties  may  thus  easily  be  formed ;  but  caution  in  the  selection  of 
companions  is  very  necessary  in  a  country  where  arrangements  once 
concluded  are  not  easily  altered. 

Conducted  Tours.  —  A  number  of  tours  of  different  lengths  are 
arranged  every  year  by  Thomas  Cook # Son,  Ludgate  Circus,  London, 
FrankClark,  96  Broadway,  New  York,  and  the  Raymond  &  Wliitcomb 
Co.,  25  Union  Square,  New  York.  These  tours  are  of  two  classes, 
personally  conducted  and  independent,  and  they  may  be  joined 
at  London,  New  York,  and  various  other  points.  The  fares,  itiner- 
aries, and  conditions  are  fully  detailed  in  the  prospectuses  issued 
by  the  firms  in  question. 

The  great  advantages  which  a  personally  conducted  tour  offers  to 
those  who  wish  to  make  a  pleasure-trip  as  comfortably  as  possible 
and  to  see  the  most  interesting  places  in  the  East  in  a  short  space 
of  time,  entail  the  not  inconsiderable  disadvantage  that  the  traveller 
who  joins  the  party  is  tied  to  society  which  he  cannot  choose  for 
himself  and  must  resign  all  claims  to  be  master  of  his  own  time  or  to 
determine  his  own  route.  As  regards  the  expense,  a  single  traveller 
(and  still  better  a  party)  can  get  along  very  well  for  the  same  amount. 

The  average  expense  of  such  tours  is  35-15*.  per  head  per  day,  from 
the  date  of  leaving  London.  For  a  tour  including  Lower  Egypt  and  the 
Nile  as  far  as  the  First  Cataract  and  four  weeks  in  Palestine  Messrs.  Cook 
charge  190/.,  or  omitting  the  Nile,  149/.  An  extra  week  in  Palestine  adds  9/. 
—  For  a  tour  of  ten  weeka,  reckoned  from  and  to  Naples  and  including 
Lower  Egypt,  Palestine,  Constantinople,  and  Athens,  the  Raymond  &  Whit- 
comb  Co.  charges  $  1030. 

Plan  of  Tour.  —  A  fortnight  is  enough  for  a  flying  visit  to  Jaffa, 
Jerusalem  (with  environs),  Beirxlt,  and  Damascus  (comp.  Nos.  I 
and  II  of  the  routes  described  at  pp.  xiii,  xiv).  Four  additional 
days  allow  of  a  visit  from  Haifa  to  Nazareth  and  Tiberias  (as  de- 
scribed in  It.  HI  at  p.  xiv).  Communication  between  the  three 
seaports  mentioned  is  maintained  by  steamers  which  ply  from  Jaffa 
to  Beirut  thrice  weekly ,  calling  at  Haifa  on  two  of  these  trips. 
[During  the  chief  travelling-season,  berths  should  be  ordered  in 
good  time.]  Railways  run  from  Jaffa  to  Jerusalem  and  from  Beirut 
to  Damascus ,  while  Haifa  is  connected  with  Tiberias  by  a  good 
road.    There  is  therefore  no  unwonted  demand  made   upon  the 


PLAN  OF  TOUR. 


xiii 


strength  of  the  traveller  on  these  three  routes.  —  Those  who  wish 
to  make  a  closer  acquaintance  with  the  country,  and  who  do  not  ob- 
ject to  the  hardships  of  horseback  and  tent  life,  should  certainly 
also  make  the  trips  numbered  IV- VII.  In  this  case,  however,  it  is 
impracticable  to  adhere  so  closely  to  a  previously  planned  route,  as 
the  traveller  will  be  more  or  less  dependent  on  the  weather  and  on 
his  own  physical  condition.  A  few  extra  days  should  therefore  be 
allowed  for  each  trip. 

I.  Jaffa-Jerusalem  (Bethlehem,  Dead  Sea),  8  days. 
1st  Day.  Jaffa  (p.  6).   The  steamers  generally  arrive  in  the  morn- 
ing, so  that  there  will  be  time  to  look  round  the  town  (with  a  guide) 
before  taking  the  train  (about  2  p.m.)  for  Jerusalem  (p.  19),  which 
is  reached  at  6  p.m. 

The  traveller  cannot  be  too  strongly  urged  to  stroll  about  the 
streets  of  Jerusalem  and  Damascus  as  much  as  possible  (with  guide), 
in  order  to  gain  the  full  effect  of  Eastern  life.  He  should  reserve 
his  first  Friday  evening  for  a  visit  to  the  Wailing  Place  of  the  Jews 
(p.  65).  He  should  also  lose  no  time  in  obtaining  from  his  consul,  M^Y 
either  personally  or  through  the  landlord  of  his  hotel,  the  permission^ g^jd 
for  a  visit  to  the  Haram  esh-Sherif  (p.  50;  closed  on  Friday). 

2nd  Day.  Jerusalem.  Walk  or  drive  to  the  top  of  the  Ml.  of 
Olives  (p.  72),  visit  Gethsemane  (p.  75)  and  the  Tomb  of  the  Virgin 
(p.  73),  and  return  on  foot  through  the  Via  Dolorosa  (pp.  50,  49). 
Afternoon  :  Church  of  the  Holy  Sepulchre  (p.  35),  Muristdn  (p.  45), 
Patriarch's  Pool  (p.  34). 

3rd  Day.  Jerusalem.  Morning  (unless  Friday,  see  above) :  Place 
of  the  Temple  {Haram  esh-Sherif,  p.  50).  Afternoon  :  Drive  or  ride 
to  Bethlehem  (p!  99). 

4th  Day.  Jerusalem  (walk  or,  preferably,  ride).  Morning:  Valley 
of  Jehoshaphat  [Kidron  Valley;  p.  79)  and  Tomb  of  Absalom  (p.  80), 
Fountain  of  the  Virgin  (p.  82),  Pool  of  Siloam  (p.  83),  through  the 
Valley  of'Hinnom  to  the  Zion  Suburb  (pp.  69,  70),  Citadel  (p.  33).  — 
Afternoon :  Drive  or  ride  to  'Ain  Kdrim  (p.  93).  —  In  the  evening, 
the  Cotton  Grotto  (p.  85). 

5th  Day.  Jerusalem  (walk  or  drive).  Morning:  Grotto  of  Jere- 
miah (p.  86),  Church  of  St.  Stephen  (Dominican  Monastery,  p.  87), 
Tombs  of  the  Kings  (p.  87).  —  Afternoon:  Tombs  of  the  Judges 
(p.  89),  and  excursion  to  En-Nebi  Samwil  (p.  95). 

6th  and  7th  Days.  Excursion  to  the  Jordan  and  to  the  Dead  Sea 
and  back.  6th  Day.  Drive,  after  an  early  start,  to  (4  hrs.)  Jericho 
(p.  125),  thence  to  (V/2  hr.)  the  Ford  of  Jordan  (p.  130),  and  to 
the  Dead  Sea  (p.  131),  and  return  to  Jericho.  —  7th  Day.  From 
Jericho  back  to  Jerusalem,  visiting  Bethany  (p.  125).  If  an  early 
start  has  been  made,  the  traveller  will  have  a  few  hours  to  spend 
in  Jerusalem.  The  ascent  of  the  Mt.  of  Olives  for  the  sake  of  the 
evening  view  (comp.  PanoTam  a  of  Jerusalem  at  p.  76)  is  recommended. 


fv*-</* 


xiv  PLAN  OF  TOUR. 

8th  Day.  From  Jerusalem  to  Jaffa  by  railway,  arriving  about 
noon.  The  steamer  starts  in  the  afternoon.  Those  who  wish  to  drive 
to  Jaffa  (7  hrs.,  p.  15)  are  advised  to  leave  Jerusalem  the  day  be- 
fore the  departure  of  their  steamer. 

Those  who  make  a  longer  stay  in  Jerusalem  should  pay  repeated 
visits  to  the  Haram  esh-Sherif,  the  Church  of  the  Holy  Sepulchre,  and  the 
Mt.  of  Olives,  and  they  should  also  walk  round  the  city  wall.  Other  objects 
of  interest  are  the  Armenian  Monastery  (p.  35),  the  M&milla  Pool  (p.  68), 
the  German  Colony  of  the  Temple  (p.  69),  the  Tower  of  Goliath  (p.3i),  the 
Lepers'  Hotpital  (p.  69;  not  agreeable  to  everyone),  the  Tombs  in  the  Valley 
of  Hinnom  (p.  84),  the  Ml.  of  Evil  Counsel  (p.  84).  Excursions  may  be 
made  to  'Ain  Fdra,  1  day  (p.  97);  the  Monastery  of  the  Cross  and  Philip's 
Well,  1/2  day  (pp.  92,  93);  El-Kubeibeh,  1/2  day  (p.  95;  best  combined  with 
a  visit  to  En-A'ebi  Samwil,  1  day);  the  Frank  Mountain  and  the  Cave  of 
Adullam,  1  day  (pp.  108  et  seq.);  Pools  of  Solomon,  '/z  day  (p.  108),  best  com- 
bined with  a  visit  to  Hebron  (1-2  days;  comp.  p.  108);  Hebron  (1-2  days, 
p.  Ill),  and  the  Greek  monastery  of  Mdr  Sdbd  (1  day;  p  134) ;  for  which 
a  permit  must  be  obtained  through  the  consulate. 

II.  Beirut-Damascus  (Ba'albck),  7  days. 

1st  Day.  Beirut.  Leave  card  at  the  consul's  and  request  a  trav- 
elling-pass (iezkereh,  p.  xxiii).  Walks  to  the  Pines  (p.  279)  and 
the  Ras  Beirut  (p.  280).  Excursion  to  the  Dog  River  (p.  280)  or 
to  the  Pigeon  Grottoes  (p.  280).  The  attractive  environs  of  Beirut 
will  repay  a  longer  visit. 

2nd  Day.  From  Beirut  to  Damascus  (p.  291).  The  train  starts 
about  7a.m.  and  arrives  about  4p.m.  Secure  a  guide  for  the  next  day. 

3rd  Day.  Damascus  (walk).  After  visiting  the  Great  Mosque 
(Jamir  el-Umawl,  p.  313),  stroll  through  the  Bazaars  (p.  301).  In 
the  evening  drive  to  Es-Salehhjeh  and  Jebel  Kdsyun  (p.  316). 

4th  Day.  Damascus  (walk).  Stroll  through  the  bazaars  and  the 
S.  suburb  El-Meiddn  (p.  309);  thence  to  the  E.  and  N.  round  the 
town  (St.  Thomas's  Gate,  p.  312).  Visit  the  TekMyeh  (p.  317)  and 
one  of  the  cafe's  on  the  Barada. 

5th  Day.  Damascus  (walk).  Visit  some  private  residences 
(p.  306),  stroll  through  the  Christian  Quarter  (p.  311)  and  orchards 
in  the  suburbs.  In  the  evening,  drive  to  Dummar  (p.  317).  Ad- 
ditional days  at  Damascus  may  be  pleasantly  spent  in  excursions. 

6th  Day.  Railway  to  Reydk  (pp.  294-292),  starting  about  8  a.m. 
and  arriving  about  11.30  a.m.  Thence  take  the  train  to  Ba'albek 
(p.  318).  Arrival  at  2  p.m.  Visit  the  Acropolis  (pp.  320  et  seq.). 

7th  Day.    Return  to  Reyak  and  Beirut,  arriving  at  4.30  p.m. 

III.  Haifa-Nazareth-Tiberias,  4  days. 

1st  Day.  llaifd;  visit  to  Mt.  Carmel  (on  foot  or  by  carriago; 
p.  226)  and,  if  time  allows,  make  au  excursion  to  Acre  (p.  228). 

2nd  Day.   Drive  to  (5  hrs.)  Nazareth  (p.  241)  and  visit  the  town. 

3rd  Day.  Drive  from  Nazareth  to  (4  hrs.)  Tiberias  (p.  247),  visit 
that  town,  and  make  the  excursion  to  Capernaum  (p.  252)  by  boat. 

4th  Day.    Drive  from  Tiberias  via  Nazareth  back  to  Haifa. 


PLAN  OF  TOUR. 


IV.  The  'Shorter  Tour':  Jerusalbm-  Nabultjs  -  Nazareth- 
Tiberias-Haifa,  7  days  at  least. 

1st  Day.  Start  about  midday.  Sleep,  if  without  tents,  in  (33/4hrs.) 
Rdmalldh  (in  the  Latin  monastery  or  a  Quaker  house;  p.  211);  if 
with  tents,  in  Beitln  (4  hrs. ;  p.  213). 

2nd  Day.  From  Rdmalldh  (or  Beilin)  to  (7  hrs.)  Ndbulus  (p.  215). 
Sleep  in  the  Latin  Monastery.  If  arriving  early,  ascend  Mt.  Gerizim. 

Hurried  travellers  may  drive  from  Jerusalem  to  El-Bireh  (p.  212), 
whither  horses  should  be  sent  in  advance,  and  so  reach  N&bulut  in  1  day. 

3rd  Day.  From  Ndbulus  via  Sebastlyeh  to  (6  hrs.)  Jeriln  (p.  223); 
tolerable  accommodation  in  the  hotel  or  in  private  houses. 

4th  Day.  From  Jenin  across  the  Plain  of  Jezreel  to  (7  hrs.)  Na- 
zareth (p.  241).    Sleep  at  the  inn  or  the  Franciscan  monastery. 

5th  Day.  From  Nazareth  across  Mt.  Tabor  (p.  245)  to  (7  hrs.) 
Tiberias.  Accommodation  in  the  Latin  or  Greek  Monastery  or  at  the 
hotel  (p.  247). 

6th  Day.  From  Tiberias  via  Kafr  Kennd  back  to  (6  hrs.)  Nazareth. 

7th  Day.     From  Nazareth  to  (6  hrs.)  Haifa  (carriage-road). 

Days  of  rest  have  not  been  taken  into  account  in  arranging  this 
tour.  It  is  desirable  to  rest  at  least  one  day  either  in  Nazareth  (in 
which  case  the  second  night  may  be  spent  on  Mt.  Tabor),  or  in  Ti- 
berias, in  order  to  see  the  neighbourhood.  Other  unoccupied  days 
may  be  very  profitably  spent  in  excursions  from  Haiti. 

V.  The  'Longer  Tour' :  Jebusalem-Haifa-Tibkrias-Baniyas- 
Damascus,  12  days  at  least. 

1st  to  3rd  Days.  Jerusalem-Jenm,  see  above,  Tour  IV. 

4th  Day  (fatiguing;  early  start  necessary).  From  Jenin  to  (8  hrs.) 
Haifd  (p.  223). 

5th  Day.    Haifa,  see  p.  xiv,  Tour  III. 

Travellers  who  are  pressed  for  time  may  go  direct  from  Jenin  to  Naza- 
reth (see  Tour  IV,  4th  day)  and  thence  as  below  (see  7th  and  following  days). 

6th  Day.    From  Haifa  to  (6  hrs.)  Nazareth  (road;  p.  237). 

7th  Day.  From  Nazareth  to  Tiberias,  via  Kafr  Kennd  (6  hrs. ; 
p.  246)  or  via  Mt.  Tabor  (7  hrs.;  p.  245).  Tiberias  (p.  247)  is  also 
a  good  place  for  a  day  of  rest. 

8th  Day.  From  Tiberias  via  (274  hrs.)  Khdn  Minyeh  (p.  252)  and 
(1  hr.)  Tell  Hum  (Capernaum,  p.  252)  to  (61/2  hrs.)  Safed  (p.  254). 

9th  Day.'  From  Safed  to  (6  hrs.)  Meis  (p.  258). 

10th  Day.  From  Meis  via  Hunin  (p.  258)  to  the  Jordan  bridge 
and  (61/2  hrs.)  Bdniyds  (Csesarea  Philippi,  p.  259). 

11th  Day.  From  Bdniyds  via  Kal'at  es-  Subeibeh  (p.  260)  to 
(61/2  hrs.)  Kafr  Hawar  (p.  262). 

12th  Day.  From  Kafr  Hawar  to  (7  hrs.)  Damascus  (pp.  262,263). 

Damascus,  comp.  Tour  II,  p.  xiv. 

VI.  Ph(enicia.  From  Jerusalem  via  Haifa,  Acre,  Tyre,  and 
>Sidon  to  Beirut,  9  days;  via  Nazareth  and  Tiberias  11  days. 


PLAN  OF  TOUR 


From  Jerusalem  to  Haifa,  comp.  TourV,  1st  to  5th  day  (or  Tour 
IV,  1st  to  7th  day). 

6th  Day.  From  Haifti  at  midday  to  (2i/2  hrs.)  Acre  (p.  228); 
accommodation  in  the  monastery. 

7th  Day.  From  Acre  to  (8  hrs.)  Tyre  (p.  267) ;  accommodation 
in  the  monastery. 

8th  Day.  From  Tyre  to  (7  hrs.)  Saidd  (Sidon,  p.  271);  Arab 
locanda. 

9th  Day.  From  Saidd  to  (8  hrs.)  Beirut  (p.  274);  a  fatiguing 
day's  march ;  start  eaTly. 

Beirut  and  its  environs,  comp.  Tour  II,  p.  xiv. 

VII.  Lebanon.  From  Damascus  via  LValbek,  the  Cedars  of 
Lebanon,  and  Tripoli  to  Beirut,  7  days  (not  to  be  attempted  before 
May). 

1st  Day.  From  Damascus  via  'Ain  Fijeh  to  (63/4  hrs.)  Ez-Zebe- 
d&ni  (pp.  318,  319). 

2nd  Day.  From  Ez-Zebeddni  to  (6y2  hrs.)  Ba'albek  (p.  319); 
start  early,  in  order  to  visit  the  Acropolis  the  same  afternoon. 

3rd  Day.  Ba'albek  (p.  320).  In  the  morning,  visit  the  Acropolis 
again.  Afternoon:  Deir  el-Ahmar  (p.  327),  3  hrs. 

From  Ba'albek  to  Beirut  by  railway,  see  p.  318  and  pp.  292,  291. 

4th  Day.  From  Deir  el-Ahmar  to  the  (6  hrs.)  Cedars  of  Lebanon 
(pp.  327,  328)  and  to  (3  hrs.)  Ehden  (p.  330). 

5th  Day.   From  Ehden  to  (5V2  hrs.)  Tripoli  (p.  331). 

6th  Day.  From  Tripoli  to  (9*/4  hrs.)  Jebeil  (p.  334). 

7th  Day.  From  Jebeil  to  Beirut  (8  hrs. ;  p.  335)  via  the  Dog  River 
(Nahr  el-Kelb,  p.  281). 

Beirut  and  neighbourhood,  comp.  Tour  II,  p.  xiv. 

Trips  to  Petra,  Sinai,  the  country  to  the  E.  of  the  Jordan,  and 
Palmyra  can  be  made  only  when  the  country  is  free  from  political 
disturbances  (comp.  p.  xxv). 

B.  Hotels.  Monasteries.  Hospitality.  Khans. 
Hotels.  —  The  towns  on  the  great  tourist-route  are  the  only  places 
■which  boast  of  hotels  properly  so  called,  managed  by  Europeans  or 
native  Christians.  Most  of  these  establishments  are  fairly  com- 
fortable, though  the  standard  of  cleanliness  and  punctuality  is 
somewhat  different  from  that  of  Europe.  An  inclusive  daily  charge 
is  made,  whether  the  traveller  takes  his  meals  in  the  hotel  or  not. 
The  average  charge  for  board  and  lodging  is  12-16  fr.  per  day  (wine 
extra) ;  for  a  prolonged  stay  or  for  a  party  a  lower  rate  may  be  ob- 
tained. Native  wines  cost  1-2  fr.  per  bottle,  French  wine  at  least 
3  fr.,  English  ale  or  German  beer  1-2  fr.  Giatuities  amount  to 
about  1  fr.  per  day.  Thus  the  daily  hotel-expenditure  may  be 
reckoned  at  about  20-25  fr. 

Hospices  and  Convents.  The  accommodation  at  these  is  much 
cheaper  than  at  hotels.    Though  originally  intended  only  for  pilgrims 


MODE  OF  TRAVELLING.  xvii 

of  the  respective  churches,  other  travellers  are  also  received.  The 
Latin  monks  are  for  the  most  part  Italian  Franciscans  (p.  lxii), 
of  gentle,  obliging,  and  self-denying  dispositions.  When  no  fixed 
charge  is  made,  travellers  should  give  at  least  3  fr.  for  their  hed 
and  as  much  more  for  supper  and  breakfast.  Fodder  for  the  horses 
is  extra.  The  monasteries  of  Mt.  Lebanon,  those  of  the  Maronites, 
and  others  likewise  afford  quarters  to  travellers,  but  in  these  cases 
the  food  and  the  beds  are  in  the  Arabian  style. 

Hospitality.  —  In  villages  the  traveller  need  not  hesitate  to 
ask  for  quarters  in  private  houses,  as  the  inmates  are  aware  that 
the  Franks  always  pay,  and  therefore  receive  them  gladly.  On 
arriving  at  a  village,  the  traveller  usually  enquires  for  the  house  at 
which  strangers  are  in  the  habit  of  alighting  (livein  menzil  or  konak  ?). 
This  is  generally  the  house  of  the  sheikh  or  some  other  person  of  im- 
portance. (For  rules  as  to  Oriental  etiquette,  see  p.  xxvii.)  Good 
accommodation  is  found  in  the  houses  of  the  Greek  priests  (lehiiri 
rdmij,  the  missionary,  or  the  consular  agent,  in  places  where  there  are 
such.    Payment  is  made  on  the  same  principle  as  in  the  monasteries. 

Khans.  —  The  khan ,  or  caravanserai ,  and  the  huts  of  the 
peasants,  which  are  generally  built  of  mud,  should  never  be  re- 
sorted to,  except  in  case  of  absolute  necessity,  as  they  swarm  with 
fleas  and  other  vermin.  The  traveller  should  see  that  the  straw- 
matting  which  covers  the  floor  is  taken  up  and  thoroughly  beaten, 
and  the  whole  place  carefully  swept  and  sprinkled  with  water. 
Every  article  of  clothing  and  bedding  belonging  to  the  inmates 
should  also  be  removed  to  another  room.  Bugs  are  less  common, 
except  where  the  houses  are  chiefly  built  of  wood.  The  tents  of 
the  Beduins  are  free  from  these  insects,  but,  on  the  other  hand, 
are  terribly  infested  with  lice.  Scorpions  abound  in  Syria,  but  they 
seldom  sting  unless  irritated.  If  the  bed  is  slightly  raised  from  the 
ground,  the  sleeper  is  quite  safe  from  their  attacks.  The  charge  for 
a  bed  in  a  khan  or  hut  is  about  3  fr. 


C.  Mode  of  Travelling. 

The  great  majority  of  travellers  in  the  Holy  Land  entrust  them- 
selves to  the  guidance  of  a  Dragoman  (Arabic  Turjmdn),  who  is 
hired  either  directly  or  through  a  tourist-agent.  The  so-called  dra- 
gomans in  the  towns  are,  however,  nothing  more  than  valets-de- 
place,  who  usually  speak  English,  French,  and  German.  They  will 
be  found  useful  in  the  crooked  Oriental  streets,  which  will  at  first 
often  puzzle  the  traveller  in  spite  of  the  plans  of  the  Handbook. 
No  confidence  should  be  placed  in  the  explanation  of  the  antiquities 
given  either  by  these  street-guides  or  by  the  dragomans  proper. 
In  the  case  of  tours  through  the  country,  the  dragoman  undertakes 
to  make  all  the  necessary  preparations  and  to  carry  out  all  the  ar- 
rangements (see  p.xviii).  Many  of  them  are  accustomed  only  to  cer- 

Baudkivku's  Palestine  and  Syria.    4th  Edit.  b 


xviii 


MODE  OF  TRAVELLING. 


tain  beaten  tracks,  and  it  is  often  a  matter  of  great  difficulty  to  in- 
duce tliern  to  make,  the  slightest  deviation  from  the  usual  routes. 
The  prices  (p.  xi)  may  seem  high,  but  this  is  largely  explained  by 
the  shortness  of  the  season,  which  seldom  allows  the  dragoman  to 
make  more  than  two  or  three  of  the  longer  tours.  Tours  occupying 
a  few  days  only  may  be  arranged  for  verbally,  but  for  those  of  any 
length  it  is  advisable  for  the  traveller  to  enter  into  a  written  Con- 
tract with  the  dragoman,  and  to  get  it  signed  by  him.  The  annexed 
form  of  contract  includes  all  the  more  important  details. 

§  1.  The  dragoman  C.  agrees  to  conduct  the  travellers  AB.,  .  .  . 
in  number,  from  Jerusalem  to  Beirut  by  way  of  Nabulus,  Jenin, 
Haifa,  etc.  The  dragoman  may  not  take  other  persons  on  this  jour- 
ney without  the  express  permission  of  the  travellers. 

§  2.  The  dragoman  binds  himself  to  defray  the  whole  cost  of 
the  said  journey,  including  transport,  food,  bakhshish,  fees,  etc. 

If  the  traveller  i3  satisfied  with  the  mukaris  (p.  xs),  he  may  give  them 
a  bakhshish  at  the  end  of  the  journey.  During  the  journey  no  demands  for 
bakhshish  should  be  entertained  for  a  moment. 

§  3.  The  dragoman  binds  himself  to  provide  for  the  daily  use  of 
the  said  travellers  .  .  .  horses  (or  camels,  p.  184)  with  good  bridles 
and  European  saddles,  including  .  .  .  ladies'  saddles,  and.  .  . 
strong  mules  or  horses  for  the  transport  of  the  travellers'  luggage. 

§  4.  The  travellers  shall  not  be  liable  for  any  damage  which 
may  be  occasioned  by  the  fall  of  the  horses,  by  theft,  or  in  any 
other  manner,  unless  by  their  own  fault.  They  shall  likewise  have 
power  to  prevent  the  overloading  of  the  beasts  of  burden,  in  order 
that  the  speed  of  the  journey  may  not  be  unduly  retarded. 

§  5.  The  dragoman  shall  provide  a  dining-tent,  with  table  and 
chairs,  a  'cabinet'  tent,  and  a  sleeping-tent  for  each  two  persons, 
containing  two  complete  beds,  with  clean  mattresses,  blankets, 
sheets,  towels,  and  pillows.  The  whole  of  the  materials  necessary 
for  encamping  shall  be  in  good  condition. 

On  some  of  the  chief  routes  gentlemen  may  travel,  if  necessary,  without 
a  tent  (comp.  pp.  xv  et  seq.).  In  this  case,  however,  the  traveller  is  de- 
pendent for  his  nightquarters  upon  villages  containing  inns  or  monasteries, 
and  this  sometimes  necessitates  an  unpleasantly  long  day's  journey.  In 
any  case  it  is  well  to  be  provided  with  a,  few  extra  rugs.  Travelling 
without  tents  in  the  remoter  districts  is  attended  by  great  inconveniences. 

§  6.  The  dragoman  shall ,  when  necessary ,  provide  guides, 
watchmen,  and  aecort,  at  his  own  expense. 

§  7.  The  dragoman  shall  provide  a  good  cook,  and  a  sufficient 
number  of  servants,  in  order  that  there  may  be  no  delay.  The  ser- 
vants shall  be  in  every  respect  obedient  and  obliging,  and  shall  be 
careful  not  to  disturb  the  traveller's  sleep. 

Unless  strictly  forbidden,  the  attendants  have  a  very  common  and 
annoying  habit  of  tethering  their  horses  close  to  the  tents,  and  of  chatting 
half  the  night  so  loudly  as  effectually  to  prevent  the  traveller  from  sleeping. 

§  8.  Breakfast  shall  consist  daily  of .  .  .  dishes  with  coffee  (tea, 
chocolate,  etc.);  luncheon,   at  midday,  of  cold  meat,   fowls,  eggs, 


MODE  OF  TRAVELLING. 


and  fruit;  dinner,  at  the  end  of  the  day's  journey,  of  .  .  .  dishes, 
followed  by  coffee  (tea,  etc.).  The  dragoman  is  hound  to  provide  for 
the  carriage,  ■without  extra  charge,  of  the  liquors  which  the  travellers 
may  purchase  for  the  journey. 

Dinner  should  always  be  postponed  till  the  day's  journey  is  over,  anil 
the  saime  may  be  said  of  indulgence  in  alcoholic  beverages  in  hot  weather 
(excepting  now  and  then  a  sip  of  good  brandy).  Cold  tea  is  very  good  for 
quenching  thirst.  Fresh  Meat  is  rarely  procurable  except  in  the  larger 
towns  and  villages.  Fowls  and  eggs  are  always  to  be  had.  The  Arabian 
Bread,  a  thin  round  kind  of  biscuit,  is  palatable  only  when  fresh.  Frank 
bread  soon  gets  very  stale.  The  traveller  had  better  buy  his  own  Wine 
(good,  dry  claret  is  best).  The  sweet  wine  of  the  country  is  unrefreshing. 
.An  ubiundant  supply  of  Tobacco  should  be  taken  for  the  purpose  of  keeping 
the  muleteers,  escorts,  and  occasional  guides  in  good  humour. 

§  '9.  The  dragoman  shall  he  courteous  and  obliging  towards 
the  travellers ;  if  otherwise,  they  shall  he  entitled  to  dismiss  him 
at  any  time  before  the  termination  of  the  journey.  The  travellers 
shall  have  liberty  to  fix  the  hours  for  halting  and  for  meals,  and  to 
choose  the  places  for  pitching  the  tents. 

Some  of  the  dragomans  are  fond  of  assuming  a  patronizing  manner 
towards  their  employers.  The  sooner  this  impertinence  is  checked,  the 
more  satisfactory  will  be  the  traveller's  subsequent  relations  with  his  guide. 
On  the  termination  of  a  journey  travellers  are  too  apt  to  give  the  drago- 
man a  imore  favourable  testimonial  than  he  really  deserves.  This  is  an  act 
of  injustice  to  his  future  employers,  and  tends  to  confirm  him  in  his  faults. 
The  testimonial,  therefore,  should  mention  any  serious  cause  for  dissatisfac- 
tion. Information  with  regard  to  dragomans  (name,  languages  spoken, 
conduct,  and  charges)  will  always  be  gratefully  received  by  the  Editor  of 
the  Hamdbook.  —  In  connection  with  many  of  the  tours  in  the  Handbook 
interesting  side-paths  and  digressions  are  indicated,  of  which  the  traveller 
should  avail  himself  without  the  least  regard  to  the  remonstrances  of  the 
dragoman.  —  The  stages  of  the  journey  depend  on  the  distances  between 
the  wellls  and  places  where  provender  is  procurable.  The  start  should 
always  be  made  early,  in  order  that  time  may  be  left  at  the  end  of  the 
journey   for  rest  or  a  refreshing  walk  before  dinner. 

§  10.  The  dragoman  shall  have  everything  in  readiness  for 
starting  on  .  .  .  April,  at  .  .  .  o'clock,  from  and  including  which 
day  the  journey  shall  occupy  .  .  .  days  at  least.  Should  the  journey 
be  prolonged  by  any  fault  of  the  dragoman,  the  travellers  shall  not 
be  liable  to  any  extra  payment  on  that  account. 

This  article  is  partly  for  the  protection  of  the  dragoman,  and  is  to 
prevent  his  being  arbitrarily  dismissed  at  a  distance  from  home  and 
without   compensation. 

§  11.  The  travellers  shall  pay  the  dragoman  for  each  day  during 
the  whole  journey  the  sum  of  .  .  .  francs  for  each  traveller.  The 
amount  is  to  be  paid  in  gold.  In  Damascus,  Haifa,  etc.,  the  trav- 
ellers sihall,  for  an  additional  payment  of .  .  francs  per  day  for  each 
person,  have  the  option  of  living  at  a  hotel  at  the  cost  of  the  drago- 
man.   The  horses  shall  meanwhile  be  at  the  travellers'  disposal. 

The  traveller  will  sometimes  prefer  sleeping  at  a  hotel  to  camping  in 
his  tent,,  and  it  is  therefore  important  that  he  should  reserve  liberty  to 
do  so  at  pleasure.  When  the  dragoman  is  bound  to  defray  the  hotel  ex- 
penses, he  obtains  a  considerable  reduction  from  the  landlords,  and  is 
himself  boarded  and  lodged  gratuitously. 

b* 


Hi 


MODE  OF  TRAVELLING. 


§  12.  In  case  any  dispute  should  arise  between  the  dragoman 
and  the  travellers,  he  hereby  undertakes  to  submit  to  the  decision 
of  the  matter  by  the  nearest  British  or  American  consul. 

§  13.  The  dragoman  shall  receive  payment  of  one-half  of  the 
estimated  minimum  cost  of  the  journey  on  the  signing  of  the  con- 
tract, and  the  remaining  half  on  the  termination  of  the  whole  journey. 

Signatures. 

A.  B.  C.  Dragoman. 

I,  the  undersigned  C,  acknowledge  receipt  of  .  .  .  francs  from  Messrs. 
A  and  B,  on  account  towards  the  cost  of  the  above  journey. 

Date.  C.  Dragoman. 

Horses  (kheil,  caravan-horse  yedtsh).  Oriental  horses  are  generally 
very  docile ,  and  may  therefore  be  safely  mounted  by  the  most 
inexperienced  rider.  The  pace  during  long  journeys  is  invariably  a 
rapid  walk;  the  horses  do  not  trot,  and  galloping  is,  of  course,  un- 
necessarily fatiguing  for  them.  They  are  accustomed  to  march  in 
single  file  (a  discreet  distance  should  be  kept),  but  with  a  little 
trouble  they  may  be  induced  to  travel  side  by  side  when  the  path 
is  wide  enough.  In  climbing  rough  and  precipitous  paths  they  are 
extremely  nimble  and  sure-footed.  They  are  shod  with  smooth  flat 
shoes  covering  the  entire  hoof.  The  horses  are  generally  ridden  with 
halters  without  bits.  Spurs  are  not  much  used,  but  a  good  whip 
(3-5  fr. )  is  necessary.  Arabian  saddles  are  not  adapted  for  Euro- 
pean riders,  and  a  European  saddle  with  stout  girths  should  there- 
fore invariably  be  stipulated  for.  It  is  generally  difficult  to  procure 
side-saddles,  except  in  Jerusalem  and  Beirut.  Luggage  should  be 
packed  in  small  portmanteaus  with  good  locks  or  in  saddle-bags 
(Arab,  khurj")  which  may  be  purchased  in  Jerusalem  or  Beirut.  — 
In  hiring  a  horse  it  is  very  important  to  secure  a  well-trained  animal 
of  easy  gait;  and,  having  done  so,  the  traveller  should  carefully  note 
its  distinguishing  peculiarities,  as  it  is  a  very  common  trick  of  the 
owner,  after  the  completion  of  the  contract,  to  substitute  an  inferior 
animal  for  the  one  selected.  The  traveller  should  also  satisfy  himself 
that  his  mount  is  free  from  saddle-sores.  The  bridle  (which  must  be 
of  leather  and  not  of  rope)  and  saddle  should  also  be  carefully  examin- 
ed beforehand.  In  the  season  horses  can  seldom  be  obtained  under 
6-8  fr.  a  day,  and  sometimes  as  much  as  10  fr.  is  demanded.  The 
same  rate  is  paid  for  the  return  of  the  animals  to  their  starting-point 
by  the  shortest  route.  Before  starting  it  is  usual  to  give  the  owner  a 
ghabun,  or  earnest-money,  which  is  deducted  from  the  final  reckoning. 
The  attendants  sent  with  the  horses,  whose  wages  (with  the  ex- 
ception of  a  small  fee)  are  included  in  the  price  of  the  horse,  are 
called  Mukfixi,  commonly  corrupted  by  Europeans  into  'Muker'. 
Travellers  who  know  something  of  the  language  and  customs  of  the 
country  may  dispense  entirely  with  the  attendance  of  a  dragoman, 
and  rely  on  the  services  of  the  mukari,  which,  of  course,  are  con- 
siderably cheaper.  In  this  case,  however,  it  is  necessary  to  be  spe- 
cially careful  in  hiring  the  horse  and  fixing  the  route,  and  in  stipu- 


EQUIPMENT.  xxi 

lating  that  the  traveller  shall  not  he  responsible  for  accidents.  Those 
who  travel  on  this  plan  will  have  to  find  their  own  provisions.  A 
supply  of  preserved  meats,  easily  obtained  in  the  larger  towns,  and 
sufficient  wine,  hrandy,  and  tea  should  he  taken.  Sweets  should 
also  he  taken  for  the  children  of  the  country-people.  Luggage  and 
saddles,  as  well  as  weapons,  should  always  he  safely  housed  for  the 
night.   A  few  rugs  are  also  indispensable. 

In  case  of  a  prolonged  stay  it  is  advisable  to  hire  a  man  as  Valet 
(30-60  fr.  a  month),  who  will  generally  be  able  to  speak  a  little  English 
or  French.  The  traveller  should  keep  a  careful  eye  on  an  attendant  of 
this  kind  and  make  him  render  an  accurate  account  of  his  expenditure 
every  day. 

D.    Equipment.    Health, 

Dress.  —  The  traveller  should  take  with  him  a  plaid,  an  overcoat, 
and  a  couple  of  suits  of  clothes,  one  light  in  colour  for  travelling, 
and  a  darker  suit  for  the  towns,  hut  dress-clothes  are  hardly  neces- 
sary. The  tailor  should  be  instructed  to  make  the  sewing  extra 
strong,  for  repairs  and  the  sewing  on  of  buttons  are  dear  in  the  East, 
not  to  speak  of  the  difficulty  of  finding  the  tailor  just  when  he  is 
wanted-  If  the  journey  is  to  be  prolonged  into  the  middle  of  summer, 
a  suit  of  grey  flannel  or  other  light  material  may  be  purchased  in 
Jerusalem  or  Beirut  (from  40  fr.  the  suit).  A  waterproof  coat  is 
essential  in  spring;  umbrellas  are  of  little  use.  —  Woollen  shirts, 
undershirts,  and  drawers  afford  protection  against  catching  cold. 
Light  silk  shirts  are  pleasant  when  riding.  They  may  be  bought  in 
Beirut  or  Jerusalem.  For  washing  an  inclusive  charge  (2-3  fr.  per 
dozen)  is  made  in  the  East  whether  the  articles  be  small  or  large. 

Light  but  strong  boots  or  shoes  are  essential  to  comfort,  as  most 
travellers  will  generally  have  occasion  to  walk  considerable  distances. 
If  much  riding  is  to  he  done,  leather  riding-gaiters,  obtainable  in 
the  ports  and  in  Jerusalem,  are  useful;  elastic  trouser-straps  aro 
necessary  in  any  case.  Slippers  (Arabian  shoes)  are  procurable  every- 
where (at  15-25  pi.). 

The  hest  covering  for  the  head  is  an  ordinary  soft  felt  hat,  a 
cloth  cap  with  a  visor,  or  a  pith  helmet.  In  the  hottest  weather  a 
'puggery'  may  he  added,  i.e.  an  ample  piece  of  strong  white  or  grey 
muslin,  the  ends  of  which  hang  down  in  broad  folds  at  the  back  as 
a  protection  against  sunstroke.  Some  travellers  prefer  a  silk  kefftyeh 
(p.  lxiii),  which  may  he  tied  under  or  over  the  hat,  falling  down  behind 
in  a  triangular  shape.  This  protects  the  cheeks  and  neck  admirably. 
The  red  fez  (Ar.  tarbusty  should  be  avoided,  the  hat  being  nowadays 
the  recognized  symbol  of  the  superior  dignity  of  the  European. 

Miscellaneous.  —  The  following  important  articles  should  be 
brought  from  Europe.  A  good  field-glass,  a  drinking-cup  of  leather 
or  metal,  a  flask,  a  strong  pocket-knife  with  corkscrew,  a  pocket 
compass  of  medium  size,  and  a  thermometer.  Magnesium  ribbon- 
wire  is  useful  for  illuminating  dark  places.     Good  insect-powder 


xxii  HEALTH. 

(Keating's  or  Persian)  is  more  or  less  indispensable;  it  should  be 
procured  before  starting.  "Valuable  watches  should  be  left  at  home. 
A  Touk  of  Explokation  into  the  interior  requires  more  elaborate 
preparations,  which  had  better  be  entrusted  to  a  good  tourist-agent  or  an 
experienced  dragoman.  Blotting-paper  is  useful  for  taking  squeezes  or 
impressions  of  inscriptions  This  is  done  by  wetting  the  paper,  pressing 
it  on  the  inscription  with  a  brush,  and  removing  it  when  dry.  The  im- 
pressions will  then  be  permanent.  They  may  be  rolled  up  and  kept  in 
a  long  round  botanist's  canister.  —  Literature  for  explorers:  /.  Coles.  'Hints 
to  Travellers''  ('2  vols.;  8th  ed.,  London,  1002);  Practical  Hints  for  Trav- 
ellers in  the  Near  East\  by  E.  A.  lieynolds-BaU  (London,  1903). 

Health..  —  Properly  qualified  medical  men  are  to  be  found  in  all 
the  more  important  towns.  Their  names  will  be  found  in  this  Hand- 
book. The  chief  dangers  to  travellers  in  Palestine  are  fevers  (ma- 
laria, typhoid,  etc.),  diarrhcea  (sometimes  passing  into  dysentery), 
and  ophthalmia;  these  may,  however,  generally  be  avoided  by  the 
observance  of  a  few  simple  precautions. 

Visitors  to  Palestine  frequently  make  the  mistake  of  attempting 
to  do  too  much  in  the  way  of  travelling  and  sight-seeinjr.  As  sun- 
stroke is  common  in  Syria,  the  neck  and  head  should  be  well  pro- 
tected (comp.  p.  xxi);  a  sun-umbrella  also  will  be  found  useful. 
Grey  or  blue  spectacles  shield  the  eyes  from  the  glare  of  the  sun 
and  serve  as  a  protection  against  the  dust  in  cities.  It  should  be 
made  an  absolute  rule  to  drink  no  water  that  has  not  previously  been 
boiled,  and  even  boiled  water  should  be  moderately  partaken  of 
after  hard  exercise.  As  small-pox  is  a  common  scourge  of  Palestine, 
no  one  should  visit  the  country  who  has  not  been  successfully 
vaccinated  at  least  twice.  It  need  hardly  be  said  that  it  is  of  espe- 
cial importance  to  avoid  risk  of  sprains  and  bruises  in  exploring  or 
sight-seeing.  —  The  traveller's  medicine-chest  should  contain  at 
least  the  following  remedies,  most  of  which  may  be  obtained  in  a 
tabloid  form:  against  fever,  Quinine  (three  grains  daily  may  be 
taken  as  a  precaution  while  travelling);  for  neuralgia,  Chlorodyne  ; 
for  headache  or  rheumatism,  Phenacetin  or  Aspirin;  for  the  eyes, 
Boracic  or  Zinc  Lotion ;  for  insect-stings,  Spirits  of  Ammonia  (a  mos- 
quito-curtain for  night  use  when  travelling  is  almost  a  necessity); 
for  chafed  sores  due  to  riding,  a  Zinc  or  Starch  Dustiny  Powder; 
for  wounds  and  bruises,  Tincture  of  Arnica  or  Elliman's  Embroca- 
tion, Antiseptic  Wool.  Gentle  aperients,  such  as  Cascara  Sagrada 
or  Castor  Oil,  should  not  be  forgotten;  the  latter  will  be  found 
especially  valuable  in  the  earliest  stage  of  dysentery.  Light  cases 
of  diarrhoea  may  generally  be  cured  by  rest  in  a  horizontal  position 
and  a  diet  of  arrowroot  (which  should  always  accompany  the  traveller) 
and  milk. 


E.  Money.   Passports  and  Custom  House.    Consulates. 
Money  (comp.  the  Table  facing  the  title-page).  —  The  mone- 
tary unit  of  Syria  is  the  piastre  (Arabic  kirsh}  plur.  kur&sK),   con- 


^^^^^^ 


MONEY. 


taiiiing  40  paras  (Arabic  fadda,  or  masriyeK).  Great  confusion  in 
the  value  of  the  current  coins  is  caused  by  the  existence  of  two 
rates  of  exchange :  first,  the  government  rate  (sagh),  and  secondly 
that  in  use  in  trade  and  ordinary  life  (shuruk).  This  latter  rate 
again  varies  greatly  in  different  towns.  Thus  a  mejidi  is  officially 
{eg.  in  the  Turkish  telegraph-offices)  worth  19  pi.  (sdyh),  while  it 
passes  current  in  the  ordinary  traffic  of  Jerusalem  for  23  pi.  (shuruk). 
The  traveller  should  keep  himself  posted  as  to  the  current  rate  of 
exchange.  The  value  of  a  piastre  sagh  in  English  money  is  about 
2d.;  that  of  a  piastre  shuruk  about  1 3/4 cZ . 

Cheques  of  the  American  Express  Co.  are  accepted  in  Jaffa,  Jeru- 
salem, Haifa,  Beirut  and  Damascus,  as  well  as  in  the  hotels  and 
shops  at  the  rate  of  5  fr.  per  dollar,  but  the  traveller  will  obtain  a 
better  exchange  at  the  Cre'dit  Lyonnais,  the  agents  of  the  company. 

English  and  French  gold  (as  also  Russian)  passes  everywhere; 
German  gold  can  be  changed  without  loss  only  at  some  German 
houses.  Foreign  silver  is  prohibited  all  over  Turkey,  but  francs  and 
shillings  are  taken  at  the  seaports,  and  in  Jerusalem  and  Damascus; 
marks  are  generally  refused.  Egyptian  money  is  refused  everywhere. 
Money  should  be  changed  at  a  banker's  or  at  a  hotel,  not  in  the 
bazaars,  and  should  always  be  carefully  kept  under  lock  and  key. 

As  there  is  a  deficiency  of  small  change,  a  trifling  fee  has  gener- 
ally to  be  paid  for  the  exchange  (1-1  ^  pi.  for  a  napoleon).  When 
travelling  into  the  interior  of  the  country  the  traveller  should  not 
fail  to  take  plenty  of  small  change  with  him. 

Pieces  of  money  perforated  with  holes  are  in  common  circulation : 
these ,  and  also  coins  worn  smooth  on  one  side,  should  be  rejected. 

Weights  and  Measures.  The  only  system  legally  recognized  is  the 
decimal  system  based  on  the  metre,  litre,  and  gramme.  But  the  old  weights 
and  measures  are  still  in  use  everywhere  in  Syria.  The  unit  of  Weight  is  the 
Bram(Dirhem)  =  3,2  gr.  or 50  grains ;400dram  =  l  Okka  =  1,28kg.  or 21b.  l3oz. 

The  unit  of  Measures  of  Capacity  is  the  Mudd  (Midd)  =  18  litres  or 
about  i  gallons ;  1  Rub'iyeh  —  lU  mudd,  1  Keileh  ss  2  mudd.  —  Wine  and 
other  liquids  are  usually  sold  by  weight  in  Syria. 

The  unit  of  Linear  and  Superficial  Measurement  is  the  Drd'  (ell)  = 
673/4  centimetres  cr  about  26  in.  ;  1  square  drar  =  4590  square  centimetres; 
1  Fedddn  —  1600  square  draf  =  734  square  metres. 

Passports.  —  A  passport  is  indispensable,  and  should  be  wise  before 
starting  by  the  nearest  Turkish  consul  in  one's  own  country.  On 
arrival  at  a  Syrian  port  the  passport  is  generally  demanded  for  re- 
gistration, after  which  it  may  be  reclaimed  at  the  consulate.  The 
traveller  should  take  care  to  get  it  back  without  unnecessary  delay. 

Passports  may  be  obtained  in  Kngland  direct  from  the  Foreign  Office 
(fee  2*0  or  through  Buss.,  4  Adelaide  Street,  Strand  (charge  4*0;  C.  Smith 
&  Sons,  23  Craven  Street,  Charing  Cross  (4s.);  Thos.  Cook  rf-  Sons,  Ludgate 
Circus  (3*.  Gil);  and  Henry  Blacklock  &  Co.  ('Bradshaw's  Guides),  59  Fleet 
Street  (5*.)-  An  extra  charge  is  made  for  each  visa,  should  such  be  neces- 
sary. —  In  the  United  States  application  for  passports  should  be  made 
to  the  Passport  Bureau,  State  Department,  Washington,  D.  C. 

To  pass  from  one  vilayet  to  the  next  within  the  Turkish  empire 
[_e,g.  from  Beirut  to  Damascus)  a  Tezkereh  or  Turkish  local  passport  is 


xxiv  CONSULATES. 

necessary.  This  document  is  issued  by  the  police  authorities  on  the 
requisition  of  th9  consul  and  costs  15  pi.  sdgh.  For  each  successive 
vilayet  a  police  visa  is  necessary,  costing  2i/2  pi.  sugh. 

Custom  House.  —  The  traveller's  luggage  is  generally  sub- 
jected to  examination  at  the  douane.  The  introduction  of  cigarettes 
or  tobacco  into  Syria  is  punished  by  tine  and  confiscation ;  but  50 
cigarettes  and  50  grammes  (2  oz.)  of  tobacco  are  passed  as  the  day's 
requirements  of  the  traveller,  and  may  be  insisted  upon.  Cigars  are 
taxed  at  75  percent  of  the  declared  value.  Firearms  and  ammuni- 
tion are  also  prohibited.  Books  are  strictly  examined;  copies  of 
the  present  Handbook  have  not  unfrequently  been  confiscated.  The 
traveller  is  liable  to  another  examination  on  leaving  the  country, 
as  all  goods  exported  arc  liable  to  a  duty  of  1  per  cent  on  their 
value.  The  exportation  of  antiquities  is  entirely  prohibited.  In  all 
these  cases  a  bakhshish  of  a  few  francs  v»  ill  generally  ensure  the 
traveller  against  molestation,  but  it  should,  of  course,  not  be  offered 
too  openly,  or  in  presence  of  the  superior  officials.  —  The  traveller 
should  only  send  his  luggage  in  advance  if  he  can  address  it  (after 
first  obtaining  permission)  to  some  firm  to  -whom  he  is  known ;  the 
keys  must  be  sent  with  it,  in  order  that  it  may  undergo  the  custom- 
house examination.  No  attempt  should  be  made  to  take  home 
Oriental  tobacco,  as  the  Turkish,  Italian,  and  Austrian  custom- 
houses interpose  endless  difficulties.  The  best  way  of  sending 
purchases  home  is  through  one  of  the  forwarding-agents  mentioned 
in  our  accounts  of  Jerusalem  and  Beirut. 

Consulates.  —  Consuls  in  the  East  enjoy  the  same  privilege  of 
exterritoriality  as  ambassadors  in  Europe.  Some  of  these  are  con- 
suls by  profession  ('consules  missi'),  others  merely  commercial.  The 
British  and  American  consuls  of  the  former  class  (at  Jerusalem  and 
Beirut  only)  exercise  jurisdiction  in  all  civil  matters  of  dispute 
between  their  countrymen,  and  in  complaint  against  their  country- 
men by  other  foreigners.  Disputes  between  Turkish  subjects  and 
foreigners  are  decided  by  the  Turkish  courts,  with  the  aid  of  the 
dragoman  of  the  foreigner's  consulate.  The  vice-consuls  and  con- 
sular agents  are  subordinate  to  the  consuls  and  act  only  at  the  in- 
stance or  under  the  control  of  the  latter.  In  all  emergencies  the  tra- 
veller should,  if  possible,  apply  to  his  consul.  —  The  'kavasses',  or 
consular  attendants,  are  often  very  usefulto  travellers,  and  though  not 
entitled  to  ask  payment  for  their  services,  generally  expect  a  gratuity. 


F.   Post  Office  and  Telegraph. 

Postal  Arrangements.  —  The  head-offices  of  the  post  for  Syria 
and  Cyprus  are  at  Beirut.  Turkey  has  joined  the  Postal  Union.  The 
postage  for  European  letters  of  tyg  oz.  is  1  piastre  sdgh,  and  for 
printed  matter  10  paras  for  every  2  oz.   Post-cards  20  paras. 

Letters  may  be  sent  to  Syria  poste  restante ,  but  it  is  better  to 


POST  AND  TELEGRAPH.  xxv 

have  them  addressed  to  a  consul,  house  of  business,  or  hotel.  Letters 
take  from  8  to  12  days  in  passing  between  London  and  Syria. 

The  Turkish  Post  is  principally  for  the  inland  service.  The 
addresses  for  letters  to  be  forwarded  by  the  Turkisli  post  must  be 
in  Turkish  or  Arabic  as  well  as  in  English.  —  The  Foreign  Service 
is  principally  managed  by  the  Austrian,  French,  German,  British, 
and  Russian  post  offices. 

Telegraph  Offices.  —  There  are  two  kinds  of  telegraph-offices  in 
Syria,  International  and  Turkish.  Telegrams  in  Arabic  and  Turkish 
only  are  received  at  the  Turkish  offices,  while  at  the  international 
offices  they  may  be  written  in  any  European  language.  Telegrams 
from  Turkish  offices  must  be  sent  in  Arabic  or  Turkish  to  the  coast, 
where  they  are  translated,  and  then  forwarded.  This  had  better  bo 
done  through  a  mercantile  house  or  a  consulate. 

Tariff:  Turkish  Telegrams  within  a  vilayet  5  pi.  myh,  per  20 
words,  each  additional  word  10  paras;*  to  a  greater  distance  71/-}  pi. 
per  15  words,  each  word  extra  20  paras ;  to  the  remotest  provinces 
10  pi.  per  10  words,  each  word  extra  1  pi.  Urgent  telegrams,  taking 
precedence  of  all  others,  are  sent  at  thrice  the  above  rates. 

International  Telegrams,  per  word : 


Austria 

46  c. 

Great  Britain  71   <-. 

Russia           72  c. 

Belgium 

60  - 

Greece 

38  - 

Spain            65  - 

Denmark 

60  - 

Holland 

60  - 

Sweden         69  - 

Egypt 

lfr. 

Italy 

48  - 

Switzerland  51   - 

France 

56  c. 

Norway 

72  - 

United  States  (New 

Germany 

55  - 

Portugal 

69  - 

York)  2  fr.  35  c. 

Telegrams  should  be  written  very  distinctly  in  Roman  characters. 

Telegraph  Offices  in  Syria  (those  marked  with  a  star  are  in- 
ternational) :  Acre;  'Aintab*;  'Ajlun;  'Akaba ;  'Aleih;  Aleppo*; 
Alexandretta*;  Antiocb*;  Ba'abda*;  Ba'aklin ;  Ba'albek;  Baniyas ; 
Batrun;  Beilan;  Beirut*;  Beisan;  Bekfeiya;  Beiteddin*;  Bethle- 
hem; Birejik;  Busr- el -Hariri;  Damascus*;  Deir  el-Kamar; 
Derf at;  Djezzin;  Gaza*;  Haifa*;  llama;  Hasbeiya;  Hebron;  Horns; 
Irbid;  Jaffa*;  Jebeleh;  Jenin;  Jerusalem*;  Juneh;  El-Katana; 
El-Kerak;  El-Kuneitra*;  El-Ladikiyeh*;  El-Ma'an;  Madeba;  El- 
Merkez*;  El-Mina*;  El-Mismiyeh;  Mu'allaka;  El-Muzeirib;  Nabu- 
lus;  Nazareth*;  Ncbk;  Rasheiya;  Safed*;  Saida  (Sidon)*;  Salkhad  ; 
Es-Salt;  Sheikh  Miskin;  Sheikh  S'a'd ;  Esh-Shuweifat ';  Sur(Tyre); 
Es-Suweida;  Tabariyeh  (Tiberias)*;  Et-Tafileh;  Tarabulus  (Tri- 
poli); Tartus;  Zahleh. 


G.  Public  Safety.  "Weapons.  Escorts. 

Weapons  are  unnecessary  on  the  main  routes  (pp.  xii  et  seq.) 

but  advisable  on  the  others,  as  fire-arms,   conspicuously  carried, 

add  a  great  deal  to  the  importance  with  which  the  'Frank'  is  regarded 

by  tho  natives.    As  the  importation  of  weapons  is  forbidden,  they 


xxv i  PUBLIC  SAFETY. 

must  be  purchased  in  Jerusalem  or  Beirut.  The  requisite  licences 
to  carry  weapons  and  to  hunt  are  issued  by  the  police  on  the  appli- 
cation of  the  consul  (fee  1 1  pi.  sagK). 

Escort.  —  The  escorts  of  mounted  police  (khayydl)  or  soldiers, 
which  are  necessary  on  certain  routes,  are  paid  at  the  rate  of  1  mejidi 
per  day  for  each  man.  Details  will  be  found  under  each  route.  In 
unsafe  districts  a  guard  should  be  posted  outside  the  tents;  in  Na- 
hulus  and  some  other  towns,  which  will  be  mentioned  in  the  Hand- 
book, soldiers  should  be  got  for  this  purpose  from  the  commandant. 
Objects  of  value  should  be  placed  either  under  the  traveller's  pillow 
or  as  near  the  middle  of  the  tent  as  possible,  lest  they  should  be 
within  reach  of  hands  intruding  from  the  outside.  In  case  anything 
should  be  missed,  a  complaint  should  at  once  be  lodged  with  the 
sheikh  of  the  nearest  village  (Sheikh  el-beled)  and,  if  this  is  fruitless, 
with  the  Mudlr  (p.  lvii).  The  traveller  should  likewise  be  on  his 
guard  against  the  thievish  propensities  of  beggars.  The  greatest 
number  of  marauders  are  found  on  the  borders  of  the  cultivated 
districts.  The  desert  itself  is  safer.  The  unwritten  law  of  the  Be- 
duins  grants  each  tribe  the  privilege  of  escorting  travellers  (in  return 
for  a  suitable  bakhshish)  to  the  frontier  of  its  territory.  As  a  rule, 
however,  one  sheikh  will  contract  to  escort  the  travellers  through  a 
number  of  tribal  territories  and  to  settle  with  the  other  sheikh.  In 
this  manner  the  traveller  is  everywhere  sure  of  hospitality  (corn p. 
p.  xxviii)  Human  life  is  generally  held  In  high  regard  in  the  des- 
ert, and  the  traveller  need  have  little  fear  unless  he  has  provoked 
retaliation  by  the  use  of  his  weapons.  The  writer,  however,  has 
known  instances  where  pretended  attacks  have  been  preconcerted 
between  the  Beduins  and  the  dragoman  in  order  to  extort  a  higher 
bakhshish  from  the  traveller,  which  was  afterwards  divided  among  the 
conspirators.  —  It  is  advisable  to  treat  the  escort  freely  with  coffee. 

"With  regard  to  the  fees  to  be  paid  to  Beduin  escorts  in  districts  which 
do  not  recognize  the  Turkish  supremacy,  no  definite  rule  can  be  laid  down. 
The  lieduins  are  generally  obstinate  to  a  most  provoking  degree,  hop- 
ing to  weary  out  the  traveller  by  delay,  and  thus  induce  him  to  accept 
their  exorbitant  terms.  Negotiations  should  be  conducted  through  the 
medium  of  the  consulate,  never  through  unknown  persons  who  officiously 
proffer  their  services. 


H.  Intercourse  with  Orientals. 
Most  Orientals  regard  the  European  traveller  as  a  Croesus  ,  and 
sometimes  as  a  madman,  —  so  unintelligible  to  them  are  the  objects 
and  pleasures  of  travelling.  They  therefore  demand  bakhshish  almost 
as  a  right  from  those  who  seem  so  much  better  supplied  with  this 
world's  goods.  He  who  gives  is  a  good  man  (rijal  taiyib).  In 
every  village  the  traveller  is  assailed  with  crowds  of  ragged,  half- 
naked  children,  shouting  'bakhshish,  bakhshish,  y&khawuja!'  The 
best   reply    is   to   complete    the   rhyme    with,    'ma  fish,    md  fish' 


INTERCOURSE  WITH  ORIENTALS. 


(there  is  nothing).  A  beggar  may  be  silenced  with  the  words  'Alldh 
ya'tW  (may  God  give  thee  !).  The  custom  of  scattering  small  coins 
for  the  sake  of  the  amusement  furnished  by  the  consequent  scramble 
is  an  insult  to  poverty  that  no  right-minded  traveller  will  offer. 

The  word  bakhshish,  which  resounds  so  perpetually  in  the  travel- 
ler's ears  during  his  sojourn  in  the  P^ast,  and  haunts  him  long 
afterwards,  simply  means  'a  gift',  and  as  everything  is  to  be  had  for 
gifts,  the  word  has  many  different  applications.  Thus  with  bakhshish 
the  tardy  operations  of  the  custom-house  officer  are  accelerated, 
bakhshish  supplies  the  place  of  a  passport,  bakhshish  is  the  alms 
bestowed  on  a  beggar,  bakhshish  means  blackmail,  and  lastly  a  large 
proportion  of  the  public  officials  of  the  country  live  almost  ex- 
clusively on  bakhshish.  Bakhshish  should  be  given  only  at  the  last 
moment.  It  is  also  advisable  at  times  to  give  at  first  less  than  the 
full  amount  the  traveller  means  to  part  with  and  to  keep  the  rest 
to  still  the  further  importunity  of  the  receiver. 

The  following  rules  should  be  observed  in  paying  a  visit  at  an 
Oriental  house.  The  visitor  knocks  at  the  door  with  the  iron 
knocker  attached  to  it,  whereupon  the  question  'mm'  (who  is  there?) 
is  usually  asked  from  within.  In  the  case  of  Muslim  houses,  the 
visitor  has  to  wait  outside  for  a  few  minutes  in  order  to  give  the 
women  who  happen  to  be  in  the  court  time  to  retire.  He  is  then 
conducted  into  the  Mandara  or  reception-room,  or,  if  it  is  summer, 
into  the  open  colonnade  round  the  court.  A  low  divan  or  sofa  runs 
round  three  sides  of  the  Mandara ,  the  place  of  honour  always 
being  exactly  opposite  the  door.  According  to  the  greater  or  less 
degree  of  respect  which  the  host  desires  to  show  for  his  guest,  he 
approaches  one  or  more  steps  towards  him.  A  refusal  to  receive 
a  visitor  is  considered  an  unpardonable  insult.  The  first  enquiries 
are  concerning  the  health.  No  enquiry  should  be  made  after  the 
wives  of  a  Muslim,  his  matrimonial  relations  being  considered  as 
under  the  veil  (sitrj.  Even  looking  at  women  in  the  street  or  in 
a  house  is  considered  indecorous.  Visitors  are  always  supplied 
with  coffee,  which  a  servant,  with  his  left  hand  on  his  heart,  pre- 
sents to  each  in  turn,  according  to  his  rank.  To  be  passed  over 
when  coffee  is  handed  round  is  deemed  an  insult.  Having  emptied 
his  cup,  the  visitor  must  keep  it  in  his  hand  until  it  is  taken  from 
him  by  the  servant,  after  which  he  salutes  his  host  in  the  usual 
Oriental  fashion  by  placing  his  right  hand  on  his  breast  and  after- 
wards raising  it  to  his  forehead.  The  longer  the  host  wishes  to  have 
the  company  of  his  visitor,  the  later  he  orders  the  coffee  to  be 
brought,  as  the  visitor  cannot  take  his  leave  before  partaking  of 
coffee.  Among  villagers  and  Beduins,  the  guest  is  expected  to 
empty  several  half-cups  of  coffee  before  departing.  —  AH  visits 
must,  of  course,  be  returned  as  in  Europe.  Those  who  return  to  a 
place  after  an  absence  receive  visits  from  their  acquaintances  before 
they  are  expected  to  call  on  them.    When  a  visitor  is  announced  at 


INTERCOURSE  WITH  ORIENTALS. 


meal-time,  it  is  de  rigucur  to  invite  him,  at  least  as  a  matter  of 
form,  to  partake.    It  is  always  advisable  to  offer  coffee. 

As  Orientals  attach  no  value  whatever  to  their  time,  the  trans- 
action of  business  is  always  a  long  and  tedious  process.  Unless  the 
purchaser  is  prepared  to  pay  whatever  is  asked,  he  will  have  to  exer- 
cise the  greatest  possible  patience.  As  a  rule,  a  much  higher  price  is 
demanded  than  will  ultimately  be  accepted  ,  and  bargaining  is  there- 
fore the  universal  custom.  This  is  emphatically  the  case  in  making 
purchases  in  the  Bazaars.  As  the  trades  and  handicrafts  of  the 
same  kind  are  generally  congregated  together  in  the  same  quarter 
or  street,  such  as  the  Suk  en-NahMsin  (market  of  the  coppersmiths), 
it  is  an  easy  matter  for  the  traveller  to  move  on  to  the  next  dealer 
when  he  thinks  he  is  being  treated  unfairly.  It  is  advisable  to 
offer  at  first  rather  a  lower  sum  than  the  purchaser  is  willing  to 
pay  in  order  that  the  offer  may  be  raised  (with  the  expression  lmin 
shdnak\  'for  thy  sake').  If  the  purchaser  knows  the  proper  price  of 
the  goods  beforehand,  ho  offers  it  to  the  seller,  who  will  probably 
remark  'kalif  (it  is  little),  but  will  nevertheless  sell  the  goods. 
A  favourite  expression  with  Oriental  shopkeepers  is  'khudu  balusfi 
(take  it  for  nothing),  which  is ,  of  course,  no  more  meant  to  be 
taken  literally  than  the  well  known  'beitt  beitak'  (my  house  is  thy 
house). 

Familiarity  should  always  be  avoided.  True  friendship  is  rare 
in  the  East,  and  disinterestedness  hardly  exists.  In  dealing  with 
Europeans,  the  natives  present  a  united  front.  The  bond  of  a 
common  religion,  which  takes  the  place  of  'paTty'  in  other  coun- 
tries, and  requires  its  adherents  to  address  each  other  as  'ya  akhiV 
(my  brother),  is  far  more  than  a  mere  name.  Beneath  the  inter- 
minable protestations  of  friendship  with  which  the  traveller  is  over- 
whelmed lurks  in  most  cases  the  demon  of  cupidity.  It  is  best  to 
pay  for  every  service  or  civility  on  the  spot,  and  as  far  as  possible 
to  fix  the  price  of  every  article  beforehand.  It  will,  however,  be 
impossible  to  avoid  extortions  or  over-charges  altogether,  and  it  is 
better  to  reconcile  oneself  to  this  than  to  poison  one's  enjoyment  by 
too  much  suspicion.  Those  who  understand  how  to  treat  the  natives 
will  often  be  struck  by  their  dignity,  self-respect,  and  gracefulness 
of  manner.  The  stranger  should  therefore  be  careful  to  preserve  an 
equally  high  standard  in  his  own  demeanour,  and  should  do  all  in 
his  power  to  sustain  the  well-established  reputation  of  the  lkilrneh 
frenjlyeli1 ,  the  'word  of  a  Frank'. 

Down  to  the  time  of  the  Crimean  War  (1855)  Christians  and 
Jews  were  rarely  permitted  to  visit  the  Mosques  (p.  lxxiii),  but 
since  that  period  the  ancient  exclusiveness  has  been  greatly  modified. 
Before  entering,  visitors  must  draw  a  pair  of  slippers  over  their  foot- 
gear; these  are  generally  provided  at  the  entrance  (1  pi.).  In  the 
interior,  they  should  show  all  possible  consideration  for  the  feelings 
of  the  worshippers  and   should  abstain   from   touching  the  Korans 


TOBACCO. 


XXIX 


lying  about.  In  the  larger  mosques  an  entrance-fee  is  exacted,  while 
in  the  smaller  mosques  a  gratuity  of  1  pi.  is  given  to  the  guide. 

Regarding  the  intercourse  with  the  Beddins.  comp.  p.  xxvi.  In  their 
camps  the  first  tent  to  the  right  is  generally  that  of  the  sheikh,  whom 
one  should  at  once  visit.  The  Beduin  regards  the  person  of  his  guest  as 
inviolable  after  he  has  eaten  or  drunk  with  him.  In  this  case  he  is  also 
bound  ti  i  protect  his  guest  for  3  days  after  his  departure. 


I.    Tobacco.    Coffee  Houses.    Baths. 

Tobacco  (tulun,  dulchan;  strong,  ltakU\  mild,  'khafif')  is  a 
government  monopoly  (comp.  p.  xxiv).  There  are  two  main  quali- 
ties, the  Stambuli  or  Constantinople  tobacco,  cut  in  long  strips,  and 
the  Beledi  or  Syrian  tobacco,  cut  in  short  and  irregular  pieces.  The 
latter  is  preferred  by  many  smokers,  as  the  after-taste  is  pleasanter 
and  the  mouth  less  parched.  The  price  of  both  is  about  40  pi.  for 
an  okka  (23/4  lbs.).  —  The  tobacco  grown  in  the  Lebanon  is  much 
better,  but  its  exportation  into  the  monopolized  provinces  is  now 
prohibit<ed.  Still,  smuggled  tobacco  can  be  had  everywhere.  The 
best  qualities  are  called  Jebeili,  Shkifl,  and  Korani,  from  the  towns 
Jebeil,  Shkif,  and  Kura.  The  first-mentioned,  called  Latakia  by 
Europeans  and  by  the  natives  sometimes  abu  rlha  ('father  of  per- 
fume'), is  strong  and  dark-brown,  from  being  dried  in  the  smoke 
of  resinous  woods.    Korani  is  light-brown  and  milder. 

Tumb&k,  or  Persian  tobacco,  which  is  light  in  colour  and  very 
aromatic,  is  the  only  variety  smoked  in  the  nargUehs,  or  water-pipes. 
It  is  moistened  before  using  and  lighted  with  a  piece  of  live  coal. 
Those  wlho  use  this  kind  of  pipe  draw  the  smoke  into  their  lungs,  and 
some  practice  is  necessary  before  the  process  becomes  agreeable. 

The  government  Cigarettes  are  made  of  a  mixture  of  stambuli 
and  beledi.  There  are  four  qualities:  extra  and  Nos.  1-3.  Most  people 
smoke  N<o.  2,  which  is  as  good  as  1  and  cheaper,  costing  2-1/2  P*-  ?^9^ 
for  a  box  of  25.    The  extra  quality  (7  pi.  sdgli)  is  much  better. 

The  government  Cigars  are  all  very  bad;  good  cigars  imported 
(or  smuggled)  by  individuals  are  to  be  found  only  in  Beirut  or 
Jerusalem,  and  are  very  dear. 

Coffee  Houses  abound  everywhere,  consisting  of  slight  wooden 
booths,  furnished  with  a  few  seats  of  plaited  rushes.  The  coffee, 
which  is  served  in  diminutive  cups  (finjdn),  is  usually  presented 
to  the  customer  highly  sweetened,  but  may  be  asked  for  without 
sugar  (sddeh  or  murra),  or  with  little  sugar  (shwoyyet  sukkar).  The 
coffee  of  the  Beduins  is  the  best,  being  always  freshly  roasted,  and 
pounded  in  wooden  mortars.  Europeans  are  charged  V2-I  P*-  Per 
cup,  but  natives  half  that  sum  only.  The  waiter  is  called  in  Oriental 
fashion  by  clapping  the  hands  and  calling  lya  weled'  (Oh  boy !).  The 
cafe'- owner  provides  nargilehs ,  or  water-pipes,  for  his  guests. 
Natives  generally  bring  their  own  tobacco  with  them ;  the  host 
charges  ether  visitors  ^j^-i  piastre  per  pipe.    The  nargileh  should 


xxx  BATHS. 

never  be  smoked  quite  to  the  bottom.  To  prevent  contact  with  the 
mouthpiece  (marbish),  a  small  tube  of  paper  may  be  inserted  into  it. 
Arabian  Baths.  —  The  Arabian  baths,  with  their  hot-air  cham- 
bers, are  those  commonly  known  as  Turkish,  but  they  are  neither 
so  clean  nor  so  well  fitted  up  as  some  of  those  in  the  larger  cities 
of  Europe.  A  Turkish  bath  is  particularly  refreshing  after  a  long 
journey,  and  is  an  admirable  preventive  of  colds  and  rheumatism. 
The  baths  are  always  cleanest  in  the  early  morning.  Fridays  are 
to  be  avoided,  as  numerous  Muslims  bathe  early  on  that  day,  which 
is  their  Sabbath.  When  a  cloth  is  hung  up  at  the  entrance  to  the 
baths,  it  indicates  that  women  only  are  admitted.  Many  of  the 
baths  are  charitable  foundations,  where  the  natives  pay  little  or 
nothing.  Europeans  are  expected  to  pay  6  pi.  or  more,  and  a  fee 
of  2-3  pi.  is  given  to  the  attendant.  The  accompanying  Plan  shows 
the  usual  arrangement  of  a  bath-house. 


lih.o; 


«  y  7z  »*c 


6  \      IS 


r 

-■  r 

-*     j 

9 

— -'- — ^ 

J 

f^ 

n    '  - 

\{ 

il- 

!_,     ll    - 

Vr 

:  ••"•^j- 

~i 

j — — —  — ■ 

1.  Entrance.  —  2.  Aleshlah,  a  kind  of  ante- chamber,  where  the  poorer 
bathers  undress.  —  3.  Fasktyeh,  fountain.  —  4.  Diwdn,  better  dressing- 
rooms,  with  divans  round  the  walls;  visitors  take  off  their  shoes  before 
stepping  on  the  carpets,  and,  after  undressing,  are  provided  with  pattens 
or  wooden  shoes  (kabkdb).  —  5.  Coffee-seller.  —  6.  Beit  el-awwal,  warm 
dressing-room  for  cold  weather.  —  8.  Latrines.  —  7.  Entrance  to  the  (0) 
Hardra  (or  'sudatorium').  —  As  soon  as  the  skin  is  thoroughly  moist,  the 
attendant  (abu  kls,  or  abu  sdblln,  'soap-man')  shampoos  the  visitor,  and 
pulls  and  kneads  his  joints'  till  they  crack.  '■Beg''  means  'enough'!  When 
desirous  of  leaving  the  hot  room,  the  bather  says  to  the  attendant  '■jib 
et-fuwaf  (bring  the  towels).  —  10.  Diwdn.  —  11.  Maghtas,  chambers  with 
bath-tub  and  basins.  —  12.  llanafiyeh,  chambers  with  basins  only.  — 
13.  Furnaces.  —  14.  Boilers. 


xxxi 


II.  The  Arabic  Language. 

Arabic  belongs  to  the  Semitic  group  of  languages,  to  which  He- 
brew also  belongs.  It  has  no  relationship  with  the  tongues  of  Europe. 
The  golden  era  of  Arabic  literature  is  coeval  with  the  introduction  of 
Islam ,  and  the  Koran  is  still  regarded  as  an  unrivalled  model  of  style 
and  lainguage.  But  by  the  side  of  this  literary  Arabic  flourished  also 
various  colloquial  dialects,  which  were  carried  by  the  Arabs  into  the 
various  provinces  conquered  for  the  Crescent,  and  there  developed 
partly  under  the  influence  of  the  old  local  tongues.  In  this  way 
arose  the  vulgar  dialects  of  Arabic,  of  which  the  Syrian  Arabic  is  one. 
This,  Ihowever,  is  by  no  means  uniform  in  its  character  but  is  divided 
into  numerous  sub-dialects.  The  Beduin,  e.g.,  speaks  quite  differ- 
ently from  the  townsman,  the  Damascene  from  the  Jernsalemite.  The 
Jerusalem  dialect  in  taken  as  the  basis  for  the  following  remarks. 
In  writing,  however,  an  attempt  was  made  to  retain  the  older  forms, 
and  th  e  written  language  of  the  present  day,  known  as  Middle  Arabic, 
occupies  a  position  midway  between  the  original  classical  tongue 
and  the  popular  dialects. 

The  pronunciation t  of  the  vowels  is  apparently  liable  to  varia- 
tion ;  thus,  besides  the  more  correct  Mimbar,  the  form  Mambar  is  also 
used;  besides  Maiddn,  both  Meiddn  and  Midan  are  heard.  The  long 
&  is  frequently  pronounced  in  Syria  with  a  sound  resembling  the 
English  a  in  hare;  but  in  North  Syria  it  is  also  often  pronounced 
as  6,  or  at  least  as  a  sound  midway  between  a  and  6.  On  the  other 
hard,  ;a  sharply  defined  and  exact  pronunciation  of  the  consonants  is 
characteristic  of  Arabic  and  is  absolutely  essential  to  any  satisfactory 
use  of  the  language.  The  learner  should  endeavour  at  once  to  master 
the  pronunciation  of  the  more  difficult  Arabic  consonants,  such  as 
w,  A,    JC,   c-,  tjo,  and  ij&,   so  as,  for  example,  to  be  able  to 

make  a  distinct  difference  between  belt  (house)  and  beid  (eggs). 
Many  of  the  sounds  have  no  representatives  in  English. 

Thee  Arabic  alphabet  was  developed  from  that  of  the  Nabateans, 
who  in  turn  adopted  their  written  characters  from  the  Palmyrenes. 
In  spitie  of  its  external  attractions,  it  is  very  imperfect.  The  short 
vowels  are  usually  omitted  and  have  to  be  supplied  by  the  reader,  a 
feat  whiicb.  demands  considerable  skill  and  experience.  In  the  Koran, 
however,  the  vowels  are  all  indicated  by  appropriate  signs. 

Ow  ing  to  the  increasing  intercourse  between  the  native  Syrians 
and  Euirope,  the  former  have  of  late  adopted  many  words  from  other 
languagres,  chiefly  from  Italian,  French,  and  English.  Many  Arabic 
words  have,  moreover,  long  since  been  replaced  by  Turkish  equi- 
valents.. Very  few  Europeans  learn  to  pronounce  Arabic  accurately, 
even  affter  a  residence  of  many  years  in  the  country. 


+  It   should  be  observed  that  in  the  following  pages  we  use  the  vowel- 
sounds  <i)f  a,  «,  i,  o,  and  u  as  pronounced  in  Italian  (uh,  eh,  ee,  o,  oo). 


pn 

oltewffi 

ZZ^3Z3fl£ttZVr)±W*rtf\'*!  ■M»*Z5<«&L 

mfm 

xxxii 

ARABIC  LANGUAGE. 

We  give  below  the  Arabic  Alphabet,  with  tbe  sounds  correspond- 

ing to  tbe  different  letters  so  far  as  it  is  possible  to  represent  or 

descn 

be  tbem  to  tbe  E 

nglisb  reader. 

1. 

Elif,Alef 

t 

['] 

accompanies  an   initial   vowel,    and  is   not 

) 

pronounced   except   as    a  hiatus  in   the 

2. 

Ba 

v_J 

b 

i      middle  of  a  word.  It  is  also  the  sign  for  A. 
>  as  in  English. 

3. 

Ta 

o 

t 

J 

4. 

Tha 

CJ 

th 

originally  as  th  in'thing1,  but  nowpronounced 

l  in  the  towns,  and  i  by  the  Turks. 

5. 

Jim 

in  Syria  and  Arabia  like  the  French  j  (some- 

s 

i 

times  also  like  the  Knglish  /),   but  pro- 

nounced g  (hard)  in  Egypt  and  by  the 

Beduins. 

G. 

Ha 

r» 

h 

a  peculiar  guttural  A,  pronounced  with  em- 

o 

phasis  at  the  back  of  the  palate. 

7. 

Kha 

Z 

kh 

like  ch  in   the  Scotch  word  'loch',    or  the 
harsh  German-Swiss  ch. 

8. 

Dal 

v> 

d 

as  in  English. 

9. 

Dhal 

o 

dh 

as  th  in  'the',  but  pronounced  d  in  the  towns, 

and  z  by  the  Turks  and  country-people. 

10. 

Rei 

; 

r 

pronounced  with  a  vigorous  vibration  of  the 
tODgue. 

11. 

Zei 

J 

L 

| 

12. 

Sin 

U" 

s 

>  as  in  English. 

13. 

Shin 

U^ 

sh 

1 

14. 

Sad 

o° 

§ 

emphasized  *. 

15. 

Dad 

u° 

d 

1  both  emphasized  by   pressing  the  tongue 

16. 

Ta 

h 

\ 

|        firmly  against  the  palate. 

17. 

Za 

Jo 

z 

an  emphatic  2,  now  pronounced  like  No.  11 
or  No.  15. 

18. 

Ain 

£ 

c 

a  strong  and  very  peculiar  guttural,  as  when 

trying  to  utter  a  vowel  with  contracted  throat. 

19. 

Ghain 

t 

gh 

a  guttural  resembling   a   strong   French   or 
German  r. 

20. 

Fei 

i_i 

f 

as  in  English. 

21. 

Kaf 

o 

k 

emphasized  guttural  k,  pronounced  g  by  the 

Beduins,  and  replaced  by  townspeople  by 

a  kind  of  hiatus  or  repression  of  the  voice. 

22. 

Kaf 

^ 
J 

k 

often   pronounced  tch  by  the  Beduins   and 
country-people. 

23. 

Lam 

1 

j 

24. 

Mtm 

r 

m 

/  as  in  English. 

25. 

Nun 

o 

D 

26. 

Hei 

8 

ll 

J 

27. 

Waw 

3 

w 

as  in  English.    Also  the  sign  for  t),  0,  and  «w. 

28. 

Yei 

U? 

y 

as  in  English.  Also  the  sign  for  f,  ait  and  ei. 

ARABIC  LANGUAGE. 


XXXUl 


Qiantitt  and  ACCENTUATION  op  Vowels.  Vowels  with  a  circumflex 
accent  (A)  are  long;  other  vowels  are  short.  The  accent  falls  on  the  last 
syllable  when  that  is  long  (indicated  by  *),  or  is  followed  by  two  consonants. 
It  falls  on  the  third  syllable  from  the  end  when  the  penultimate  is  short 
and  not  followed  by  two  c  nsonants.  In  other  cases,  it  falls  on  the  penul- 
timate. Diphthongs  (at,  et,  au)  must  be  reckoned  as  equivalent  to  long 
vowels.    There  are  exceptions  to  these  rules. 


ana,  I 

entefi,  thou  (raasc.) 

enti,  thou  (fern.) 

hu,  he 

hi,  she 

nahna,  we 

entu,  ye  or  you 

hum,  they 


Grammatical  Hints. 

kelbif ,  my  dog  kursiyiff,    my    chair 

kelbak,  thy  (masc.)  dog  kurslk,  thy  (masc.)  - 

kelbik,  thy  (fem.)     -  kursiki,  thy  (fem.)    - 

kelbuh,  his  -  kursih,  his 

kelbha,  her  -  kurslha,  her 

kelbna,  our  -  kurslna,  our 

kelbkum,  your  -  kursikum,  your 

kelbhum,  their  -  kursihum,  their 


t  kelb,  dog  (ending  in  a  consonant). 
t+  kursi,  chair  (ending  in  a  vowel;  but  see  khalti,  khaltak,  etc.,  below). 

khaltij ,      my      aunt  darabniff,  he  struck  me  ra&&<2m*,hebroughtm.ew' 
khaltak,  thy  (masc.)-    darabak,    --  thee  (masc.)  rabbak,    --  thee  (masc.)  - 

)   rabbdki,  -  -  thee(fem.)    - 


khaltik,  thy  (fem.)  - 

darabik, 

- thee( 

khalluh,  his 

darabuh,    - 

-  him 

khdleteha,  her 

darabha,     - 

-  her 

khdletna,  our 

dardbna,    - 

-  us 

khdletkum,  your 

darabkum,- 

-  you 

khdlethum,  their 

darabhum,- 

-  them 

rabbdh,    — 

him 

rabbdha, 

her 

rabbdna,     -  - 

us 

rabbdkum,  -  - 

you 

rabbdhum,  -  - 

them 

t  khala,   aunt,  mothers  sister  (ending  in  a  signifying  the  fem.).    When 
a  long  vowel  is  followed  by  two  consonants  it  is  usually  shortened,  hence 
the  differenie  between  khalti  and  khdleteha. 
++  darab,  he  struck  (ending  in  a  consonant). 

a  rabba,  he  brought  up  (ending  in  a  vowel). 


Hi,  f ,  to  me  'andiff ,  with  me  'aleiyi*,   upon  me 

ifofc,tothee(msc.)  'andatc,  -  thee  (masc") 'aleik,  -  thee(masc) 

ililc,  to  thee(fem.)  'andik,    -  thee  (fem.)  'aleiki,  -  thee  (fem.) 

ilo,  to  him  'ando,     -        him  'aleih,  -  him 

ilha,  to  lur  'andaha,    -    her  'aleiha  -  her 

Una,  to  us  'andina.     -    us  'aleina,  -  us 

ilkurn,  to  you        'andukum,    -  you  'aleikum,      -  you 

ilhum,  to  them     'anduhum,  -  them  'aleihum,  -  them 


T  {  =  to  (or  the  sign  of  the  dative,  like  the  French  preposition  a)  with 
suffixes;  for  in  Arabic  prepositions  receive  suffixes  in  this  fashion. 

+t  'and  =  with,  in  the  possession  of.  The  English  Ho  have'  is  usually 
expressed  with  the  aid  of  this  preposition ;  e.  g.  'andi  kelb,  T  have  a  dog 
(lit.  in  possession  of  me  is  a  dog),  'ando  kursi,  he  has  a  chair. 

*  'ala  or  'al  =  upon,  on  account  of,  against,  about,  relating  to. 

Baedkkeb's  Palestine  and  Syria.    4th  Edit.  c 


min,  who? 

shfi,  what? 

Mi,  which  (rel.) 

hdda,  this  (masc.) 

hadol,  these 

haddk,  that  (masc.) 


ARABIC  LANGUAGE. 

hull,  each,  all 
kdm,  how  much? 
hon,  here 
lahon,  hither 
min  hon,  hence 
hontk,  there 


vein,   where? 

whither? 
min  vein,  whence? 
eimta,  when? 
ma — shf,  mush, 

not. 


+  This  separable  form  is  used  with  verbs,  ma  coming  before  and  sh 
after  the  verb ;  e.  g.  darab,  he  has  struck,  ma  darabsh,  he  has  not  struck, 
but  mush  kebir,  not  large. 


melik,  a  king 
el-melik  j,  the  king 
hdda  el-melik,  this  king 
melik  kebir,  a  great  king 
el-melik  el-kebtr  or  |  .,  ... 

melik  el-kebir       }  the  great  ki„g 

el-melik  kebir,  the  king  is  great 
melik  f  j  el-bildd,  the  king  of  the 

country 
melik  min  miluk  el-bildd*,  a  king  of 

the  country 
melik  el-bilad  el-kebir,  the  great  king 

of  the  country 
muluk  el-bildd,  the  kings  of  the 

country 
mxduk  kubdr**,  great  kings 
meliki,  my  king 
multiki,  my  kings 


melikeh,  a  queen 
el-meiikth  \- ,  the  queen 
hddi-l-melikch,  this  queen 
melikeh  kebireh,  a  great  queen 
el-melikeh  el-kebtr  eh  or  1   the  great 

meliket  el-kebireh        J      queen 
el-melikeh  kebireh,  the  queen  is  great : 
meliket  ff  el-bildd,  the  queen  oi  the] 

country 
melikeh  min  melikdt  el-bildd,  a  queen 

of  the  country 
meliket  el-bildd  el-keMreh,  the  great! 

queen  of  the  country 
melikdt  el-bildd,   the  queens  of  th( 

country 
melikdt  kubdr,  great  queens 
meliketi,  my  queen 
melikdti,  my  queens 


t  El  is  the  definite  article.  Before  words  beginning  with  t,  j,  d,  dh, 
r,  2,  *,  sh,  «,  d,  t,  f,  or  n  the  I  of  the  article  is  usually  assimilated  with 
such  initial  consonant;  e.  g.  et-lurjmdn,  the  dragoman,  er  ras,  the  head, 
esli-shorba,  the  soup  (instead  of  el-lurjmdn,  el-rds,  el-shorba). 

+t  Melik  is  here  what  is  called  in  grammatical  parlance  a  'status  con- 
structus',  but  has  the  same  form  as  the  'status  absolutus1,  the  grammatical 
opposite  of  status  constructus.  But  in  feminine  nouns  ending  in  eh  or  a  a 
difference  is  made;  e.  g.  melikeh  is  the  status  absolutus,  but  meliket  the 
status  constructus. 

*  Lit.  'a  king  of  the  kings  of  the  country'. 

**  The  plural  of  kebir  (fern,  kebireh),  great,  is  kubdr;  but  in  the  case 
of  nouns  signifying  things  without  life  the  fern.  sing,  of  an  adjective  is 
frequently  used  with  the  plural  of  the  noun;  e.  g.  el-tell  el-kebireh,  the  great 
hill,  et-iulul  el-kebireh  (instead  of  et-tuiui  el-kuodr),  the  great  hills. 


ARABIC  LANGUAGE. 


Formation  of  the  Plural. 
mvslim,  Mohammedan  (masc),  plural  muslimin  (pi.  in  in) 
mvslimeh,  Mohammedan  (fern.),  pi.  muslimat  (pi.  in  at) 
bahri,  sailor,  pi.  bahriyeh  (eh  as  plur.  termination) 
hamdmeh,  pigeon,  pi.  hamdm  (eh  in  sing. ;  pi.  without  termination) 
kelb,  dog,  pi.  kilab  (plur.  hy  internal  change) 
shahr,  month,  dual,  shahrein,  two  months  (masc,  dual  in  ein) 
s&'a,  hour,  dual  sd'atein,  two  Iiouts  (fern.,  dual  in  atein,  etein). 

The  form  of  plural  that  is  to  be  selected  in  particular  cases  can  be 
learned  from  the  dictionary  only.  The  forms  of  plurals  by  internal 
change  are  exceedingly  numerous. 

Conjugation  of  Verbs.    Form  a. 
kasar,  to  hreak  something  (root-letters  k,  s,  r)  *. 
Perfect  Present  and  Future 


I  broke  or  have  broken,  kasart 
Thon  (masc.)  brokest  or  hast  -,  kasart 
Thou  (fern.)       -        -     -    -,  kasarti 
He  broke  or  has  broken,  kasar 


She 
We 
You 
They 


-  have     - 


Imperative 


I  break  or  shall  break,  aksar 
Thou(maso.)breakestorwilt -,  tiksor 
Thou  (fern.)     -     -     -     -     ,    tiksari 
He  breaks  or  will  break,   yiksar 
,  tiksar 
,  niksar 
,  tiksaru 
,  yiksaru 


kasaret  She 

,  kasama  We  break  or  shall 

,  kasartu  You     -      -  will 

,  kasaru  They   - 

Break  (sing.),  iksar  (masc),  iksari  (fern.). 

Break  (plur.)  iksaru. 
Note.  The  present-future  tense  is  limited  exclusively  to  the  present 
by  prefixing  be  to  the  verb  (also  me  to  the  1st  pers.  plur.,  6  alone  to  the  1st 
pers.  sing.);  e.  g.  betiksar,  thou  (masc.)  art  breaking  (now),  baksar,  I  am 
breaking  (now),  beniksar  or  meniksar,  we  are  breaking  (now).  Sometimes 
'amm  and  am  are  placed  before  the  verb  with  the  same  effect.  —  The 
word  rdh  placed  before  all  forms  of  the  present-future  places  the  action 
in  the  immediate  future.  Before  the  fern.  sing,  rdha  also  is  used  and 
before  the  plur.  rdhin;  e.  g.  rah  yiksarha,  he  is  on  the  point  of  breaking 
it,  rdh  (iktaruh  or  rdha  tiksaruh,  she  is  on  the  point  of  breaking  it.  For 
the  negative  conjugation  of  verbs  and  for  the  verb  with  suffixes,  see 
pp.  xxxiii,  xxxiv. 

Other  Forms  of  Conjugation*: 

I  b  to  seize    |c  to  be  silentl  d  to  greet  I  e  to  speak 

I  (root  m  t  k)       (root  s  k  t)       (root  si  m)       (root  k  I  m) 

I  Perl'.  |  misikt  sikitt  sellimt        \  tkellimt 

Thou  (masc)      l  misikt  sikitt  sellimt  tkellimt 

Thou  (fern.)        |   misikti        \   sikitti  \  sellhnti       \   tkellimti 

*  All  the  varieties  of  the  conjugations  in  Arabic  cannot,  of  course,  be 
exhibited  here.  In  the  vocabulary  (pp.  xxxvii  et  seq.)  reference  is  made  to 
the  above  paradigms  by  the  insertion  of  the  letters  (a),  (b),  (c),  etc.,  after 
the  verbs  there  given.  —  It  should  be  noted  that  the  form  kasar  does  not 
mean  'to  break',  but  'he  broke1,  or  'he  has  broken'.  The  3rd  pers.  sing, 
(masc.)  of  the  perfect  tense  shows  the  simplest  form  of  the  verb  (which 
usually  possesses  three  root-letters),  so  that  that  pers.  of  the  perf.  is  given 
in  dictionaries  instead  of  the  infinitive. 


ARABIC  LANGUAGE. 


b  to  seize 

c  to  be  silent 

d  to  greet 

e  to  speak 

(root  msk)  1 

(root  *  k  0 

(root  tlm) 

(root  klm) 

He              Perf. 

misik 

sikit 

sellirn 

tkellim 

She 

misiket 

sikitet 

sellimct 

tkeUimet 

We 

misikna 

sikitna 

sellimna 

ikellimna 

You 

misiktu 

sikittu 

sellimtu 

tkellimtu 

They 

misiku 

sikitu 

sellimu 

tkellimu 

I                 Pres.  j 

asmik 

askut 

asellim 

atkellim 

Thou  (niasc.) 

timsik 

tuskut 

tisellim 

titkellim 

Thou  (fern.) 

timsiki 

tuskuti 

tisellimi 

tilkellimi 

He  ' 

yimsik 

ymkut 

yisellim 

yitkellim 

She 

timsik 

tuskut 

tisellim 

titkellim 

We 

nimsik 

nuskut 

nisellim 

nitkellim 

You 

timsiku 

tuskulu 

tisellimu 

ti  tkellimu 

They 

yimsiku 

yuskutu 

yisellimu 

yitkellimu 

Iinper.  Sing.  m. 

imsik 

uskut 

sellim 

itkellim 

f. 

imsiki 

uskuti 

sellimi 

itkellimi 

Plur. 

imsiku 

uskutu 

sellimu 

itkellimu 

, 

f  to  say 

s  to  bring 

h  throw 

1  unloose 

(root  kwl)   | 

(root  gjV) 

(root  rmj) 

(root /At) 

I                  Perf. 

kult 

jibt 

rameit 

fakkeit 

Thou  (masc.) 

kult 

jibt 

rameit 

fakkeit 

Thou  (fem.) 

kulti 

jibli 

rameiti 

fakkeiti 

He 

kal 

jdb 

rama 

fakk 

She 

kdlet 

jfibet 

ramet 

fakket 

We 

Iculna 

jibna 

rameina 

fakkeina 

You 

kultu 

jibtu 

rameitu 

fakkeitu 

They 

kdlu 

jdbu 

ramu 

fakku 

I                  Pres. 

akul 

ajib 

armi 

afikk 

Thou  (masc.) 

teMl 

tejlb 

tirmi 

tefikk 

Thou  (fem.) 

tekuli 

tejibi 

tirmi 

tefikki 

He 

yekul 

yejtb 

yirmi 

yefikk 

She 

tekM 

tejib 

tirmi 

tefikk 

We 

nektil 

nejib 

nirmi 

nefikk 

You 

tekOlu 

tejihu(m) 

tirmu 

tefikku 

They 

yekulu 

yejibu(m) 

yirmu 

yefikku 

Imper.  Sing.  m. 

kill 

j'b 

irmi 

fukk 

f. 

kuli 

jibi 

irmi 

fukki 

Plur. 

kdlu 

jibu 

irmu 

fukku 

NUMERALS. 

xxxvii 

Arabic  Numerals. 

1  (()  —  wdhid, 

fem.  wahdeh ; 

the 

first        — 

-  el-auwel,     fem.  el- 

auw 

aleh  or  el-uleh 

2(f)  —  tnein 

-     tintein; 

the 

second    — 

-  tdni, 

fem.  tdniyeh 

3{\>-)— Hatch, 

-     tlat; 

the 

third       — 

-  tdlit, 

-     tdlteh 

4  (f  )  —  arba' a, 

aria'; 

the 

fourth     — 

-  rdbe', 

-     rdb'a 

5  (o)  —  kharnsch,    -     khams ; 

the 

fifth        - 

-  khdmis,  -     khdmseh 

6(1J— sitteh, 

sitt; 

the 

sixth      — 

-  sddisy 

-     sddseh 

7(v)— sa&'u, 

-     seba'  ; 

the  seventh  — 

-  sdbe', 

-     sdb'a 

8  (A)  —  temdniyeh,-     temdn; 

the 

eighth    — 

-  tdmin 

,    -     tdmneh 

9(1)  — «wfu, 

-     tisa'; 

the  ninth 

-  tdse', 

tds'a 

10(|J — 'ashera 

-     'asher; 

the  tenth 

-  'dshir. 

-     'dshra 

11  —  ehddsh 

40  —  arba'tn 

600- 

—  sittmtyeh 

12 — ctnas/t 

50 — khamsin 

700- 

—  sab'amiyeh 

13  —  tlaljidsh 

60  —  sitUn 

800- 

—  temanmiyeh 

14  —  arba'tdsh 

70  —  sab'tn 

900- 

—  tis'amiyeh 

15 — khamstdsh 

80  —  temdnin 

1000- 

-alf 

16  —  sittdsh 

90  —  tis'in 

2000- 

—  alfein 

17 — sab'atdsh 

100  —  mlyeh; 

before  nouns, 

3000- 

—  tlattdldf 

18  —  temantdsh 

200 — mitein 

\mit 

4000- 

—  arba'tdldf 

19  —  tis'atdsh 

300  —  tldtmhjeh 

5000- 

—  khamstdldf 

20 — 'ashrin 

400  —  arba'm 

*yeh 

100,1 

—  mitalf 

30  —  teldthi 

500  —  khamsmlyeh           1,000,000- 

—  milyun 

once               — 

marra 

a  half 

— 

nuss 

twice              — 

marratein 

a  third 

— 

tuit 

thrice             — 

tldt  marrdt 

a  fourth 

— 

rub'a 

four  times     — 

arba'  marrdt 

three-fourths  - 

nuss  urub'a 

five  times      — 

khams  marrdt 

a  fifth 

— 

khums 

six  times       — 

sitt  marrdt 

a  sixth 

— 

suds 

seven  times  — 

seba'  marrdt 

a  seventh 

— 

suba' 

eight  times  — 

temdn  marrdt 

an  eighth 

— 

tumn 

nine  times    — 

tisa'  marrdt 

a  ninth 

— 

tusa' 

ten  times      — 

'asher  marrdt 

a  tenth 

— 

'oshr,  ushr 

The  substantives  following  numerals  above  ten  are  useil  in  the  sin- 
gular; thus:  4  piastres,  arba'  kurOth;  100  piastres,  mit  kirsh.  When  the 
substantive  begins  with  a  vowel  the  numerals  from  3  to  9  usually  take  the 
following  forms :  telat,  arba't,  khamast,  silt,  tab' at,  tem&niyet,  tit'at,  'athert; 
e.  g.  arbdt  Aid/,  four  thousand. 


Arabic  Vocabulary. 


About  (concerning)/«Za,  'al.  With 
suffixes,  see  p.  xxxiii. 

Above,  fok. 

After,   ba'd,   afterwards,   ba'dein. 

Afternoon,  ba'd  ed-duhr;  late 
afternoon,  'asr. 

Air,  hawa  (also  wind,   weather). 


All,  el-kull,  all  people  hull  en-nds 
(lit.  the  total  of  the  people). 

Always,  ddiman. 

America ,  Amerikd.  American, 
amerikdni. 

Anchorage,  roads,  mersd. 

Apricots,  mishmish. 


HHppgHHV 

xxxviii                      ARABIC  VOCABULARY. 

Arabia,  Bildd  el-Araab.  Arab,  Ara- 

Boil,  to.  The  water  is  boiling,  el- 

.    Man,  'arabi,  pi.  Cddd  el-'arab. 

moyeh  tighli.  Boiled,  masl&k. 

Arm,  drd'. 

Book,  kitdb,  pi.  kutub.  Bookseller, 

Army,  'askar. 

kutubi. 

Attention;  pay  -,  dtr  bdlak. 

Boot,  jezmeh,  pi.  jizam. 

Austria ,  Bildd  en-Nemsa;    Au- 

Bottle,  kanntneh.     Earthenware 

strian,  nemsdwi. 

bottle,  brik  or  sherbeh. 

Autumn,  kharlf. 

Box,  sanduk,  pi.  sanddik. 

Axe,  kaddtim. 

Boy,  weled,  pi.  uldd. 

Back,  dahr. 

Brandy,  see  Cognac. 

Bad,  battdl. 

Bread,    khubz.     Loaf   of  bread, 

Baggage,  see^Luggage. 

rayhif,  pi.  ruyhfdn, 

Baker,  khabbdz. 

Broak,   to,   kasar  (a),   trans. ;  in- 

Bananas,  muz. 

kasar,  intrans.  Broken,  maks&r. 

Barber,  halldk,  muzeiyin. 

Breakfast,  futur. 

Barley,  sha'ir. 

Bride,  'arus.     Bridegroom,  'arts. 

Batbs,  hammdm. 

Bridge,  jisr. 

Bazaar,  see  Market. 

Bridle,  lejdm. 

Be,  to.     The  copula  'is'  (are)  is 

Bring,  to,  jab  (=).  Bring  (it),  jib. 

not  translated;  cornp.  p.  xxxv. 

Broad,  'arid. 

There  is,  fi.     Is  there  water 

Brother,  akh  (before  suffixes  and 

here?  ft  mdjeh?   There  is  no- 

genitives akhu,  as  akhdna,  our 

thing,  md  fish.    How  are  you? 

brother),  pi.  ikhwdn. 

keif  keif ak?    See  p.  xlvii. 

Brown,  asmar  or  uhmar. 

Beans.  Broad  beans,  fid.  Lupins 

Bucket,  delu. 

lubiyeh. 

Bug,  bakka,  pi.  bakk. 

Beard,  dakn  or  lehyeh.  Moustache, 

Busy,  occupied,  mashyhul. 

shawdrib. 

Butcher,  kassdb. 

Beat,   to,  darab  (a).      lie   beat, 

Butter,  zibdeh. 

yudrub  (°).  Beat  him,  udrubuh. 

Buy,  to.    What  do  you  wish  to 

Beautiful,  kwaiyis;    more  beau- 

buy, shu  beddak  tishteri?  Have 

tiful,  ahsan. 

you  bought  the  eggs,  ishtareit 

Beduin,   bedawi,   pi.  bedu.    Be- 

elbeid  ? 

duin  shekh,  sheikh  el-'arab. 

Cab,  'arabiyeh.  Cabman,  'arbaji. 

Bee,  nahleh,  pi.  nahl. 

Cafe',  see  Coffee. 

Beer,  bira. 

Cairo,  Masr. 

Before,    kabl    (time),    kudddm 

Call,  to,  riadahi*).  Call  the  cook, 

(place). 

indahli  et-tabbdkh. 

Below,  taht. 

Call,  to  =  to  name,  see  Name. 

Better,  ahsan;    the  best  of  all, 

Camel,  jemel  (masc),  pi.  jimdl  ; 

el-ahsan  min  el-kull. 

Riding-camel,  delul. 

Between,  bein. 

Candle,  shetn'a,  pi.  shema'.   Can- 

Bird, itir,  pi.  iiytir. 

dlestick,  ekem'addn. 

Bitter,  murr. 

Carob  kharrub. 

Black,  aswad. 

Carpet,  besdt. 

Blind,  a'ma. 

Carriage,  'arabiyeh  (also  a  rail  way- 

Blue,  azrak. 

carriage). 

ARABIC  VOCABULARY. 


Castle,  kasr,  pi.  kusur. 

Cattle,  bakar.    See  Ox,  Cow. 

Cave,  maghdra. 

Chair,  kursi,  pi.  kerdsi. 

Change,  to.  Change  me  a  sov- 
ereign, sarrif  li  lira.  Have  you 
changed  the  sovereign,  sarraft 
el-lira? 

Cheap,  rakhis. 

Cheese,  jibn. 

Christian,  nusrdni,  pi.  nasdra. 

Cigar,  sigdra  (also  cigarette).  Ci- 
garette-paper, warakat  sigdra. 

Cistern,  Mr. 

Class.  1st  class(railway  orsteamer) 
brimo  ;  2nd  class,  sekondo. 

Clean,  nadif or  andif. 

Clean,  to.  Clean  the  room,  naddif 
or  kennis  tl-bda. 

Clock,  Watch,  sd'a,  pi.  sd'dt. 

Clothes,  hudum,  tiydb. 

Coal,  fahm. 

Coffee,  kahweh.  Boy,  bring  a  cup 
of  coffee,  jib  fmjdn  kahweh,  yd 
weled.  ; —  Cafe,  kahweh,  Cafe- 
keeper,  kahweji.  Coffee-beans, 
bunn;  coffee-pot,  rakwi. 

Cognac,  kunydk. 

Cold,  bdrid,  fern,  bdrideh. 

Come  (to).  I  came  (perf.),  jit; 
lie  came,  aja;  I  come,  biji;  he 
comes,  yiji.  Imper.  Come,  come 
here,  ta'dl,  ta'd  (masc),  ta'dli 
(fern.),  ta'dlu  (plur.). 

Constantinople,  Stambul. 

Content,  mabs&t. 

Consul,  kunsul.  Consulate,  konsu- 
Idto.  Consular  servant,  Kavass, 
kauwds. 
Convent,  deir.    Dervish  convent, 
tekkiyeh. 

Cook,  tabbdkh. 

Cook,  to.  Cook  me  a  fowl,  utbukhli 

jdjeh. 
Cost,  to.     What  does  this   cost, 

bikdm  hddu's   See  How. 
Cotton,  kotn. 


Cow,  bakara,  pi.  bakardt. 

Crocodile,  timsdh. 

Cup,  finjdn,  pi.  fandjin. 

Cut,  to,  kata'  (a). 

Dagger,  khanjar,  pi.  khandjir. 

Damascus,  Esh-Shdm. 

Dark,  aswad. 

Dates,  tamr.  Date-palm,  nakhleh, 
pi.  nakhl(dt). 

Daughter,  bint,  pi.  bendt. 

Day,  yum,  pi.  iydm;  nehdr,  pi. 
nehdrdt.  Daily,  hull  yom  or  kull 
nehdr.  By  day,  bin-nehdr.  — 
Days  of  the  week,  see  Week. 

Dead,  meiyit. 

Deaf,  atrash. 

Dear,  ghdli.  That  is  very  (too) 
dear,  hdda  ghdli  ketir. 

Deep,  ghamik. 

Desert,  berriyeh,  bddiyeh. 

Diarrhoea,  ins  thai. 

Die,  to,  mdt  (f). 

Dirt,  wasakh.    Dirty,  wusikh. 

Dismount,  to,  nizilQ*).  We  shall 
dismount  here  biddna  ninzil 
hon.   Dismount,  inzilu. 

Do,  to.  He  did, 'amal  (perf.  accord- 
ing toa).  He  will  do  or  he  does, 
ya'mil.  He  does  nothing,  md 
bisdil  or  mdleish.  Do  not  do  it, 
md  ta'milush. 

Doctor,  see  Physician. 

Dog,  kelb  (masc),  pi.  kildb;  kel- 
beh  (fern.),  pi.  kelbdt. 

Donkey,  humdr,  ehmdr,  pi.  hamir. 
Donkey-boy,  hammdr. 

Door,  Gate,  bdb,  pi.  abwdb. 

Door-keeper,  Concierge,  bau- 
wdb. 

Dragoman,  turjmdn  (see  p.  xvii). 

Drink,  to,  shiribQ*).  Pres.  ashrab, 
tishrab,  etc.  (a).  Drink  coffee, 
ishrab  kahweh.  What  is  there 
to  drink?  shu  fi  lish-shirib? 

Driver,  see  Cabman. 

Dry,  ndshif  or  ydbis. 

Duck,  batta,  pi.  6a//. 


xlii 


ARABIC  VOCABULARY. 


Lazy,  kesldn. 

Lead,  rasas.  Lead-pencil,  kalam 

rasds. 
Leave,  to.    Leave  me  (in  peace), 

khallini ! 
Leech,  'alak,  pi.  'aldik. 
Left,  shemal.    Go  to  the  left,  ruh 

eash-shemdlak  1 
Leg,  see  Foot. 

Lemon,  leimuneh,  pi.  leimun. 
Letter,  maktub,  pi.  makdtlb.  Are 

there  any  letters  for  me,   fih 

makdtlb  min  shani? 
Lie,  to,  kizib^).  Thou  hast  lied, 

enteh  kizibt. 
Lie  down,  to  (to  sleep),  see  Sleep. 
Light,   dau.  —  A  light  (glow- 
ing embers)  for  the  narghileh 

(p.  xxix)  is  asked  for  with  the 

words  jib  bassa. 
Light,  to.  Bring  lights, jibed- dau. 

Light  the  candle,  ish'al  ed-dau. 
Little  (adj.),  syhlr. 
Lizard,  dabb. 
Load,   to  (a  horse).      Load  up, 

shtiyil. 
Lock  (of  a  door),  Padlock,   kifl, 

pi.  akfdl. 
Locomotive,  wdbur  or  bdbur. 
London,  Londra. 
Long,  tawll. 

Look,  to,  s/uJ/'C).    Look,  shufl 
Loose,  to,  see  Untie. 
Lower,  see  Below.  The  lower  road, 

et-tarlk  et-tahtdni. 
Luggage,  'afsh,  himl.     Luggage- 
ticket,  bollsa. 
Lunch,  ghadd. 
Mad,  mejn&n. 
Man,  rijdl.  lluman  being,  insdn, 

pi.  rids  (people). 
Many,  Much,  ketlr.  See  Too  much. 
Market  oi  Bazaar,  s&k,    pi.   as- 

wdk. 
Marriage,  'irs. 
Marsh,  ghadlr. 
Mat,  straw-mat,  haslra. 


Match  (light),  kabrlta,  pi.  kabrlt. 

Matter,  to.  That  matters  nothing 
to  me,  hdda  ma  bekhussnish. 
What  does  that  matter  to  me, 
shU  bekhussni  hdda? 

Meadow,  merj. 

Meal,  alcl.   See  Food. 

Meat,  lahm. 

Medicine,  daiva.  (Peruvian  bark, 
quinine,  fcJna;laudanum,  afyun; 
aperient,  mis-hil;  sherbeh). 

Melons.  Water- melons,  battlkh. 
Sweet  melons,  battlkh  asfar. 

Milk,  lebsn.  Sweet  milk,  hallb. 
Sour  milk,  leben. 

Minaret,  mddineh,  pi.  maddin. 

Mohammedan,  muslim,  pi.  mus- 
limln. 

Money,  fultis  (see  also  p.  xxii).  I 
have  no  money,  md  eandi  faltis. 
Money-changer,  sarrdf. 

Month,  shahr,  pi.  ushhur.  Names 
of  the  months,  see  p.  lxxiv. 

Moon,  kamar.  New  moon,  hildl. 
Full  moon,  bedr. 

More,  aktar.  More  than  100  piast- 
res, aktar  min  mlt  kirsh.  Still 
more,  kamdn. 

Morning.  Early  morning,  subh. 
Forenoon,  kabl  ed-duhr. 

Mosque,  jami%  mesjid,  pi.  mas- 
djid. 

Mother,  umm. 

Mount  (a  horse),  to,  rikib,  pres. 
birkab  (1  ride). 

Mountain,  jebel,\  pi.  jibdl  (also  a 
mountain-chain). 

Moustache,  shawdrib. 

Mouth,  farnm. 

Musket,  bunduklyeh. 

Name,  ism.  What  is  your  name, 
shu  ismak?  My  name  is  Hassan. 
ismi  Hasan.  What  is  the  name 
of  that  in  Arabic,  shu  ism  bil- 
'arabi?  —  Some  Arabic  per- 
sonal names:  Abraham,  Ibra- 
him; Solomon,  Sulehndn;  Mo- 


ARABIC  VOCABULARY. 


xliii 


ses,  Musa;  Jesus,  Seiyidna  'Isa 
(among  Mohammedans),  el- 
Mesth  (among  Christians) ; 
John,  Hanna;  Gabriel,  JubraU 
or  Jubrdn ;  Mary,  Maryam. 

The  names  for  the  peoples 
are  used  adjectively  also,  e.g. 
almdni  =  both  a  German  and 
German. 

Napkin  (also  Towel),  fata. 

Narrow,  daiyik. 

Near,  kartb. 

Necessary,  Idzim.  Unnecessary, 
mush  Idzim. 

Never,  abadan.  With  verbs  the 
separable  form  mu — abadan  is 
used;  e.g.  I  never  smoke,  ana 
ma  ashrab  ed-dukhdn  abadan 
(lit.  I  never  drink  tobacco). 

New,  jedid. 

Night,  led.  By  night,  bileil;  mid- 
night, nuss  el-leil. 

No,  Id.  No,  Iwillnot,  M,  md  bend. 

North,  shemdl.  Northern,  shemdlt. 

Nose,  munkhdr. 

Not,  mush  or  ma-sh  (see  p.xxxiv). 

Nothing.  There  is  nothing,  md 
fish.  What  do  you  wish?  Noth- 
ing (answer),  shil  bitrul?  mush 
ishi. 

Now,  halwakt,  halkeit,  hallak. 

Number,  numro. 

O'clock.  What  o'clock  is  it,  kad- 
deish  es-sd'a?  It  is  3  o'clock, 
es-sd'a  tliteh.  It  is  ^2  past  4, 
es-sd'a  arba'  unuss.  It  is  ,/i  to  5, 
es-sd'a  khamseh  ilia  rub'a. 

Oil,  zeit. 

Old.  An  old  castle,  kasr  kadim 
(or  kasr  'atlk).  An  old  man, 
rdjil  keblr. 

Olives,  zttun. 

On!  yallal 

Onion,  basala,  pi.  basal. 

Open,  to,  fatah  (a).  Open  your 
box,  ift'ih  sandukak. 

Oranges,  burtukdn. 


Otherwise,  uilla. 
Out,  outside,  barra;    (with  mo- 
tion) labarra. 
Out,  to  go.  He  went  out,  tili'Q*). 

He  will  go  out,  yitla'ip),  with 

•or  without  barra. 
Ox,  tor,  pi.  ttrdn. 
Pain,  waja'. 
Paper,  warak. 
Parents,  wdlidein. 
Paris,  Bdrls. 

Passport,  teskereh  or  bazaborto. 
Pay,  dafa'  (a).    Thou  hast  not  yet 

paid,  lissa  md  dafa'tsh.    I  shall 

pay,  beddi  adfa'. 
Peaches,  khokh. 

Pen,  rlsheh.    Penholder,  kalam. 
Pepper,  filftl. 
Perhaps,  belki. 

Physician,  hakim,  pi.  hukaind. 
Piastre,  kirsh,  pi.  kurush. 
Pig,  khanztr,  pi.  khandztr. 
Pigeon,  hamdmeh,  pi.  hamdm. 
Pilgrim  (to  Mecca),  haj,  pi.  hejdj. 
Pistachio,  fustuk. 
Place,  to,  see  Lay. 
Plain,  sahl. 
Plate,  sahn,  pi.  suhun. 
Please,   to,   As  you  please,  'ala 

keifak  or  'ala  khdtrak. 
Poison,  semm. 
Policeman ,    zabtlyeh.     Mounted 

policeman,  khayydl. 
Pomegranate,  rummdn. 
Pond,  birkeh,  pi.  burak. 
Poor,  meskin,  pi.  masdktn. 
Porter,  hammdl,  pi.  hammdlln. 
Post-ofttce,  bosta. 
Poultry,  jdj.    See  Fowl. 
Pretty,  kwaiyis.    Prettier,  ahsan. 
Previously,  kabl. 
Privy,  kanlf.  Where  is  the  privy? 

wein  el-kanlf? 
Prophet,  ne&i. 
Put,  to'.  Put  it  here,  jibuh.  Put  it 

above,  talla'uh.    Put  it  below, 

nezziluh.    See  Send,  Lay. 


xliv 


ARABIC  VOCABULARY. 


Quick  !  yalla  I 

Railway,  sikket  el-hadid.  Railway 
station,  mahatta.  Railway-car- 
riage, 'arabtyeh. 

Rain,  matar,  shita. 

Razor,  mils. 

Ready,  hadir.  We  are  ready, 
nahna  hadrtn.  Get  the  bed 
ready,  haddir  el-ferdsh. 

Red,  ahmar. 

Rein,  lejdm. 

Reliable,  true,  artiln. 

Religion,  d7n. 

Remain,  to,  dam  (f).  How  long 
(i.e.  how  many  days)  will  you 
(sing.)  remain  here?  UdUm 
hon  kdm  ydm? 

Rest,  to.  I  have  rested,  istaraht. 
I  wish  to  rest  for  half-an-hour, 
beddi  astarih  nuss  sa'a. 

Rice,  ruzz. 

Ride,  to.    See  Mount. 

Right,  yemln.  Turn  to  the  right, 
ruh  'al-yemtnak! 

Rise,  to,  Mm(f).    Rise  up,  kum. 

River,  nahr. 

Roast,  to,  shawa  (h).  I  have 
roasted  the  meat ,  shaweit  el- 
lahm.  Roasted,  mashwi.  Roast 
meat,  rosto. 

Robber,  hardmi,  pi.  har&miyeh. 

Room,  oda,  pi.  uwad. 

Rope,  habl,  pi.  hebdl. 

Ruins,  khirbeh. 

Russia,  Bilddel-Moskob ;  Russian, 
moskobi. 

Saddle,  serj,  pi.  sur&j.  Saddler, 
surviji.    Saddle-bag,  khurj. 

Sailor,  bahri,  pi.  bahriyeh. 

Saint  (MohammedaiO  i  nebi. 
(Christian),  mdr.  St.  George, 
Jiryis  el-kaddis  or  mdr  Jiryis. 

Salt,  milh. 

Satisfied  (eating),  shib'dn. 

Say,  to,  kdl  (f).  Say  to  him  he 
must  come,  khallih  yiji. 

Scholar,  'dlim,  pi.  'ulema. 


School.    Elementary  school,  kut- 

tdb.  Secondary  school,  medreseh, 

pi.  maddris.  Schoolmaster,  fa- 

Icth,  mifallim. 
Scissors,  makass. 
Scorpion,  'akrab,  pi.  'akdrib. 
Sea,  bahr. 
See,  to.    See  Look. 
Send,  to,  to  forward.     Send  the 

luggage  off,  khud  el-'afah. 
Serpent,  haiyeh,  pi.  haiydt. 
Servant,  khddim,  or  khadddm. 
Set,  to,  see  Lay,  to. 
Shave,  to.  halak  (a). 
Sheep ,    kharuf  (masc).     Sheep 

(plur.)  ghanam. 
Ship,  merkeb,  pi.  mardkib.  Steam- 
ship, wdb&r. 
Shoe,  surmdyeh. 
Shoot,  to  =  to  strike  or  beat,  i 

necessary  with  the  addition  bir- 

resas,  i.e.  with  the  lead. 
Short,  kaslr. 
Shut,  to.     Shut  the  door,  sekkir 

el-bdb. 
Silent,  to  be,  sikit(c),  see  p.  xxxvi. 
Silk,  harlr. 
Silver,  fadda. 
Singly  (one  after  the  other),  wdhid 

wa/nd(masc);  wahdeh  wahdeh 

(fein.). 
Sir,    khawdja    (of    Europeans), 

effendi  (of  natives). 
Sister,  ukht,  pi.  akhwdt. 
Sit,  to.    He  has  sat  down,  Wad. 

Sit  (take  a  seat),  uk'ud. 
Sky,  sama. 
Sleep,  to.  I  slept,  nimt  (perf.  ac- 

cordingto^).  He  sleeps,  bindm. 

I  want  to  go  to  sleep,   beddi 

nam. 
Slowly.     Go  slowly,    shwaoiyeh, 

shwaoiyeh!  or  'aia  mahlaki 
Small,  sghir. 
Smoke  tobacco,    to,    shirib  (lit. 

drink)   ed-dukhdn.     See   also 

Never. 


ARABIC  VOCABULARY. 


xlv 


Snow,  ice,  telj. 

Soap,  sabUn. 

Sofa,  dhvdn. 

Soldier,  'askari,  pi.  'askarlyeh. 

Son,  ibn,  pi.  beni. 

Soup,  shorba. 

Sour,  hdrnud. 

South,  kibla.    Southern,  kibli. 

Speak.  Do  you  speak  Arabic, 
btehki  'arabi?  I  do  not  speak 
Arabic,   ana  md  behkish  'arabi. 

Spoon,  ma'laka,  pi.  mardlik. 

Spring  (of  water),  'ain,  pi.  'ayun. 

Spring  (season),  rabY. 

Start  (on  a  journey),  to,  sdfar. 
When  wilt  thou  start,  eimta 
tesafir?  When  will  you  start, 
eimta  tesdferu?  to  morrow 
morning,  nesdfir  bukra  bedri  (at 
sunrise,  ma'-esh-shems;  an  hour 
before  sunrise,  sd'a  kabl  esh- 
shems).  When  does  the  steamer 
start,  eimta  yesdfir  el-wdbtlr? 

Stay,  to,  see  Remain. 

Steamboat,  wdbur. 

Stick,  'asdyeh,  pi.  'asdydt. 

Still.    Still  more,  kamdn. 

Stirrup,  rekdb,  pi.  rekdbdt. 

Stocking,  kalsa,  pi.  kalsdt. 

Stomach,  batn. 

Stone,  hajar,  pi.  hajdra. 

Stop,  to,  see  Halt. 

Straight  on,  dughri. 

Strange,  gharlb. 

Street  or  road,  tank;  derb;  sikkeh. 

Strike,  to,  see  Beat. 

Strong,  kawi  (also  violent). 

Stupid,   ghashim  (also  awkward). 

Sugar,  sukkar. 

Summer,  self. 

Sun,  shems.  Sunrise,  tulu'  esh- 
shems.    Sunset,  maghreb. 

Sweat,  rarak.     Sweating,  'arkdn. 

Sweep  out,  to.  I  have  swept  the 
room  out,  kannistel-oda.  Sweep 
the  room,  kannis  el-oda. 

Sweet,  helu. 


Syria,  Esh-Shdm,  Syrian,  shdmi. 

Table,  sufra. 

Tailor,  khaiydt. 

Take,  to.     He  has  taken,  khad. 

Take,  khud.  He  takes,  ydkhud. 
Take  away,  to,  shal  (3).    Take  it 

away  (or  up),  shtluh. 
Teacher,  mu'allim. 
Telegraph,   teleghrdf  (also  tele- 
gram). I  wish  to  telegraph,  beddi 

adrub  et-teleghrdf. 
Telescope,  nadddra. 
Tender,  raft'. 
Tent,  kheimeh,  pi.  khiyam.  Tont- 

pole,  famti,d.  Tent-peg,  watad. 
There,  hon,  honik. 
Thread,  kheit. 

Ticket,  teskereh,  pi.  tazdkir. 
Tie,  to.   I  have  tied,  rabatt.   Tie 

it,   urbutuh.     It  is  tied  (on), 

marbut. 
Time,  wakt.    See  O'clock. 
Tired,  ta'bdn. 
Tobacco,    dukhdn.    Water-pipe, 

nargileh.    See  Smoke. 
To-day,  el-yom  (j/6m  =  day). 
Together,  sawa  sawa. 
To-morrow,  bukra.  Day  after  to- 
morrow, ba'd  bukra. 
Tongue,  lisdn. 
Too  much,  very,  ketir.  Too  little, 

shivoiyeh. 
Towel,  fata  (also  table-napkin). 
Town,     medlneh,     pi.     mudun. 

Quarter  of  a  town,  hdra. 
Travel,  to,  sdfar  or  ruh  (see  Go), 

if  necessary  with  the  addition 

of  bil-'arabiyeh,  by  carriage; 

bil-feluka,  by  boat;  bil-wdbur, 

by  steamboat,  etc. 
Tree, shajara,  pi.  shajardt  or  ash- 

jdr  (also  shrub). 
Trousers   (European),    bantalun. 
Turkey,    Bildd    et-Turk,    Turk, 

turki. 
Understand,  to,  fihim  (a).    I  have 

understood  you,  fhimtak. 


xlvi 


ARABIC  VOCABULARY. 


Untie,  to.  You  must  untie  the 
reins,  lazim  tirkhi  ahwaiyeh  el- 

Untruthful,  kazzdb.  [lejdm. 

Upper,  fdk.  The  upper  route, 
et-tarik  el-fdkdni. 

Valley,  wddi. 

Very,  kefir. 

Village,  beled,  pi.  bildd.  Village 
chief;  sheikh  el-beled. 

Vinegar,  khall. 

Vulture,  nisr.  Carrion  -  kite, 
rakham. 

Wages,  kira,  ijra. 

"Wait,  to.  Wait  a  little,  stanna 
shwoiyeh. 

Wash,  to.  I  wish  to  wash  my 
hands,  beddi  aghassil  ideiyi. 
Wash  my  clothes,  ghassil  hu- 
dtimi!  The  washing,  ghasil. 
Washerman,  ghassdl.  Washer- 
woman, ghassdleh. 

Watch,  sd'a.  Watchmaker,  sd'dti. 

Watchman,  ghafir,  pi.  ghufara. 

Water,  mdyeh. 

Way,  see  Street. 

Weak,  da'if. 

Weather,  hawa  (also  air,  atmo- 
sphere, wind). 

Week,jwmfa.  Fortnight (2 weeks), 
jum'atein.  Three  weeks,  Udteh 
jum'dt.  —  Days  of  the  week: 
Sun.  ydm  el-ahad;  Mon.  ydm 
et-tnein;  Tues.  yom  et-tldteh; 
Wed.  yom  el-arba';  Thnrs.  ydm 
el-khamls;  Frid.  ydm  el-jum'a; 
Sat.  ydm  es-sabt.  Ydm  (day)  is 
frequently  omitted. 

Well,  6tr,  pi.  abydr.  Public 
fountain,  sebtl. 


West,  gharb ;  maghreb.   Western, 

gharbi. 
Wet,  mablul. 
When,  eimta? 
Whence, min  wein?  Whence  com- 

est  thou,  min  vein  jdi? 
Where,  vein? 
Whip,  kurbdj. 
White,  abyad. 
Whither,  wein?     Whither  goest 

thou,  wein  rdih? 
Why,  leish? 

Wind,  hawa.  Hot  wind,  khamsin. 
Window,  shibbdk,  pi.  shebdbtk. 
Wine,  nebid. 
Winter,  shita. 
Wish,  to,  is  expressed  by  bidd, 

a  wish ,   with   suffixes   (comp 

p.  xxxiii).   I  wish,   ana  berid. 

I  wish  to  drink,  beddi  eshrab. 

We  wish  to  eat,  beddna  ndkul. 

As  you  wish,  'ala  keifak  or  'ala 

khdtrak. 
Within,  juwa. 
Woman,    mara   or   hurmeh;   pi. 

hartm  or  niswdn. 
Wood,  fire-wood,  hatab.  Timber, 

khashab. 
Write,  to.    He  wrote,  katab  (a). 

He  will  write,  yiklib  (b). 
Year,  seneh.    Two  years,  sintein. 

Three  years,  Udteh  siriin. 
Yellow,  asfar. 
Yes,  na'am,  aiwa! 
Yesterday,  embdreh.    Day  before 

yesterday,  auwal  embdreh. 
Yet,  lissa.  He  has  not  yet  arrived, 

lissa  md  ajdsh. 
Youth,  Fellow,  sabi. 


Salutations  and  Phrases.  Health  (peace)  be  with  you.  Es~ 
saldm'aleikv.m.  Answer:  A_nd  with  you  be  peace  'Aleikum  es-saldm. 
These  greetings  are  used  only  by  Muslims  to  each  other.  A  Muslim 
greets  a  Christian  with — Thy  day  be  happy.  Nehdrak  sa'id.  Answer: 
Thy  day  be  happy  and  blessed.   Nehdrak  sa'id  umubdrak. 

Good  morning,  sabdh  el-kheir.  Answer:  God  grant  you  a  good 
morning.   Alldh  yesabbihak  bil-kheir. 


f&£&**"T^ 


ARABIC  VOCABULARY. 


xlvii 


Good  evening.  Mesdkum  bil-kheir,  or  mesikum  bil-kheir.  Answer: 
God  vouchsafe  yon  a  good  evening.  Allah  yimesstkum  bil-kheir.  — 
May  thy  night  be  happy.  Leiltak  sa'ideh.  Answer:  Leiltak  sa'ideh 
umubdrakeh. 

On  visiting  or  meeting  a  person,  the  first  question  after  the 
usual  salutations  is  :  How  is  your  health?  kef  hdlak  (or  keif  keifak)1 
Answer:  Well,  thank  God.  El-hamdu  lilldh,  taiyib.  —  Beduins 
and  peasants  sometimes  ask  the  same  question  a  dozen  times. 

After  a  person  has  drunk,  it  is  usual  for  his  friends  to  raise 
their  hands  to  their  heads  and  say :  May  it  agree  with  you,  sir. 
HanVan,  yd  stdi.  Answer:  God  grant  it  may  agree  with  thee.  Allah 
yehanntk. 

On  handing  anything  to  a  person :  Take  it.  Khud.  Answer:  God 
increase  your  goods.  Kattar  Allah  kheirak,  or  kattar  kheirak.  Reply: 
And  thy  goods  also.    Ukheirak. 

On  departure,  the  person  leaving  usually  says:  Farewell!  Khd- 
trakl  Answer:  Peace  be  with  you.  Ma'  as-saldmeh!  (lit.  'in  peace'). 
After  this  response  is  sometimes  made  again:  God  grant  that  it  go 
well  with  you!  Allah  yisellimak! 

On  the  route:  Welcome.  Ahlan  wasahlan,  or  marhaba.  Answer: 
Twice  welcome.    Marhabtein. 

I  beg  you  (to  enter,  to  eat,  to  take).  Tfaddal;  fem.  tfaddali; 
plur.  tfaddalu. 

Be  so  good.    A'mil  ma'ruf. 

What  God  pleases  ('happens',  understood).  Mdshalldh  (an  ex- 
clamation of  surprise).  —  As  God  pleases.  Inshalldh.  —  By  God! 
Wallah,  or  walldhi!  —  By  thy  head!  Wahyat  rdsak!  —  By  the  life 
of  the  prophet!  Wahyat  en-nebi!  —  God  forbid!  Istaghfir  Allah!  — 
Heavens !    Yd  saldm  I 

J.  8.  Willmore,  The  Spoken  Arabic  of  Egypt  (London,  2nd  edition,  1905). 
A.  Socin,  Arabic  Grammar  (Berlin,  2nd  edition,  189o). 
/.  0.  Hava,  Arabic-English  Dictionary  (Beirut,  1899). 
Thimm,  Arabic  (Syrian)  Self- Taught  (price  2s.,  cloth  2s.  Gd.). 
SirrU  Colloquiil  Egyptian  Arabic  Grammar  (London,  1904). 


III.    Geographical  Notice. 

Climate.  Geology.  Flora.  Agriculture.  Fauna.  Political  Divisions. 

Syria,  called  by  the  Turks  S&ristdn  or  'Arabistdn,  is  known  to 
the  Arabs  as  Esh-Shdm,  i.e.  the  country  situated  to  the  'left'  (in 
contradistinction  to  El-Yemen  or  South  Arabia,  which  is  situated 
to  the  'right').  It  extends  from  the  highlands  of  the  Taurus  on  the 
N.  to  Egypt  on  the  S.,  between  30°  5'  and  31°  N.  latitude,  a  distance 
of  about  370  M.,  and  contains  an  area  of  108,000  sq.  M.  The  coast- 
district  on  the  W.  is  separated  from  the  desert  on  the  E.  by  a  range 
of  hills,  broken  by  but  few  transverse  valleys,  and  attaining  its 
highest  points  in  the  parallel  chains  of  the  Libanus  (Lebanon)  and 


xlviii 


GEOGRAPHY. 


Anti-Libanus.  The  so-called  Syrian  desert  is  a  region  of  steppes, 
extending  at  a  mean  level  of  1900  ft.  to  the  neighbourhood  of  the 
Euphrates  (p.  391).  While  the  seaboard ,  with  its  sand-dunes, 
and  the  arid  steppe,  which  is  fertile  only  when  artificially  irrigated, 
afford  but  little  variety,  the  intervening  mountainous  region  presents 
numerous  features  of  interest  and  produces  a  luxuriant  vegetation. 
It  is  convenient  to  divide'the  country  into  four  different  regions 
by  three  imaginary  transverse  lines  drawn  across  it.  North  Syria, 
the  first  of  these  regions,  extends  from  the  Bay  of  Alexandretta  and 
the  Upper  Euphrates  to  the  line  drawn  from  the  river  Eleutheros 
(Nahr  el-Kebir)  to  Horns.  The  second  section  embraces  the  ancient 
Phoenicia  on  the  W.,  the  highest  part  of  the  mountains  in  the 
middle,  and  the  territory  round  the  ancient  capital  city  Damascus 
on  the  E.,  and  extends  to  the  line  drawn  from  Tyre  (Stir)  towards 
the  E.,  skirting  the  S.  base  of  Hermon.  The  third  section,  Palestine 
(Arab.  Filistin),  would  be  bounded  by  a  line  running  from  the  S.E. 
angle  of  the  Mediterranean  towards  the  E.  The  fourth  region  would 
consist  of  the  desert  Et-Tih,  the 'Araba,  and  the  mountains  of  Petra. 
With  regard  to  scenery,  the  two  N.  sections  are  far  superior  to  the 
two  to  the  S.  The  two  which  are  most  frequently  visited  by  tou- 
rists are  the  second  and  third,  the  latter  on  account  of  its  Biblical 
interest. 

The  Mountain  Range  forming  the  backbone  of  the  country  abuts 
to  the  N.  on  the  Cilician  Taurus  and  begins  with  the  chain  called 
Amanus  by  the  ancients,  but  now  having  no  general  name.  This 
is  continued  towards  the  S.,  beyond  the  Orontes,  by  the  Jebel  el- 
Akra',  the  ancient  Mons  Casius,  which  is  adjoined  by  a  range  of 
hills  called  the  Nosairhjeh  Mts.  after  the  people  by  whom  they  are 
inhabited.  At  the  Nahr  el-Kebir  (see  above)  begin  the  main  ridges 
of  Lebanon  and  Anti-Libanus,  two  parallel  ranges  separated  by  the 
so-called  'Syrian  Depression'.  This  depression  includes  on  the  N. 
the  beautiful  plateau  otEl-Bika'  (the  ancient  Ccele-Syria),  sinks  to  a 
depth  of  1290  ft.  below  the  level  of  the  sea  in  the  valley  of  the  Jordan 
and  to  2600  ft.  in  the  Dead  Sea,  and  rises  again  to  the  S.  of  the 
latter  to  a  height  of  820  ft.  above  the  sea-level.  The  chief  peaks  of 
the  Lebanon  (Arab.  Jebel  Libnau),  to  the  W.,  are  the  Jebel  Makmal 
(10,010  ft.)  and  the  Dahr  el-Kodib  (10,046  ft.),  both  to  the  E.  of 
Tripoli.  The  culminating  point  of  the  Anti-Libanus  (Arab.  Jebel 
esh-Sherki)  is  the  Great  Hermon  (9380  ft.).  Within  Palestine, 
the  continuation  of  the  Lebanon  is  separated  from  the  sea  by  a 
narrow  but  fertile  plain,  except  in  the  offshoot  ending  in  ML  Carmel. 
In  the  Bible  its  different  sections  are  mentioned  as  the  mountains 
of  Naphtali,  Ephraim,  and  Judah.  To  the  E.  of  the  Jordan,  adjoin- 
ing Mt.  Hermon,  are  a  series  of  volcanic  hills  (tulul).  The  whole 
of  the  Hauran,  which  is  of  basaltic  and  lava  formation,  also  exhibits 
to  this  day  a  number  of  volcanic  craters  (p.  lii).  Farther  to  the  S. 
extend  the  mountains  of  Gilead,  partly  wooded.    The  mountains  of 


CLIMATE. 


xlix 


Moab  form  an  extensive  tableland,  separated  from  the  desert  towards 
the  E.  by  a  low  range  of  hills  only. 

The  few  large  Rivers  of  Syria  all  take  their  rise  in  the  central 
range  of  mountains.  In  the  tableland  of  El-Bika.f  two  streams  rise 
within  a  short  distance  of  each  other.  The  Leontes  (now  Nahr  el- 
Lilarii)  flows  towards  the  S.  and  after  numerous  sinuosities  falls  jnto 
the  sea  to  the  N.  of  Tyre,  while  the  other,  the  Orontes  (El-Asi), 
flowing  towards  the  N.,  describes  a  more  circuitous  route  before  it 
reaches  the  sea  to  the  S.W.  of  Antioch.  On  the  Anti-Libanus  again 
rise  three  rivers  which  debouch  into  inland  lakes:  viz.  the  Baradd, 
which  waters  the  oasis  of  Damascus,  the  A'waj  in  Mt.  Hermon,  and 
farther  S.  the  Jordan  (p.  130),  which  flows  into  the  Dead  Sea.  In 
Palestine  the  country  E.  of  Jordan  has  a  few  perennial  rivers :  the 
Yarmuk,  the  Nahr  ez-Zerkd,  which  flow  into  the  Jordan,  and  the 
Wddi  el-Mojib,  which  empties  itself  into  the  Dead  Sea.  In  W.  Pal- 
estine the  Nahr  el-Aujd,  though  the  most  copious  stream  in  Palestine 
after  the  Jordan,  has  only  a  very  short  course  in  the  littoral  plain 
(p.  10).  The  other  valleys  (wddi)  are  dry  except  during  the  rainy 
season,  and  even  then  the  water  soon  runs  off  or  soaks  through  the 
ground.  Some  of  the  river-beds,  however,  are  deeply  eroded.  A  wadi 
frequently  bears  different  names  according  to  the  places  it  passes. 

The  Climatic  Conditions  of  Syria  have  not  yet  been  sufficiently 
studied.  Regular  observations  have  been  made  in  Jerusalem  since 
1861,  but  Beirut  and  Damascus  are  the  only  other  points  where 
any  statistics  have  been  collected.  Since  1895  trustworthy  data  in 
reference  to  Palestine  have  been  collected  by  the  Observation  Stations 
of  the  German  Palestine  Society  (comp.  J.  Olaisher,  'Meteorological 
Observations  at  Jerusalem',  P.  E.  F.,  1905;  ZDPV.  xiv.  93  et  seq., 
xxv.  1  et  seq.). 

Rainfall.  Syria  has  practically  two  seasons  only,  a  dry  hot 
summer,  and  a  rainy  but  comparatively  warm  winter.  Three  cli- 
matic zones  may  be  distinguished  :  the  subtropical  coast-region,  the 
mountains  with  a  continental  climate,  and  the  tropical  valley  of  the 
Jordan.  The  rainy  season  is  followed  almost  immediately  by  the  dry 
season ;  at  most  with  the  interposition  of  a  brief  spring,  from  the 
middle  of  March  to  the  beginning  of  May.  From  the  middle  of  May 
to  the  end  of  October  the  sky  is  almost  uninterruptedly  cloudless. 
Thunder  and  rain  during  the  wheat-harvest  (1  Sam.  xii.  17,  18)  in 
May  are  of  very  rare  occurrence.  Dews,  sometimes  very  heavy,  fall 
at  night,  even  in  summer,  but  this  is  not  the  case  in  the  desert.  In 
the  end  of  October  or  the  beginning  of  November  falls  the  'first'  or 
'former'  rain  of  the  Bible  (Deut.  xi.  14;  Joel  ii.  23),  which  so  far 
softens  the  parched  soil  that  the  husbandman  can  plough  it.  After 
a  mild  but  more  or  less  rainless  interval  begin  the  heavy  winter 
rains  ,  which  last  from  the  middle  of  December  till  the  end  of 
February,  reviving  vegetation  and  filling  the  springs.  The  downfall 
is  heaviest  in  January.   The  'latter'  rains  falling  in  March  and  April 

liAKuiiiuiits  Palestine  and  Syria.   4th  Edit.  J 


CLIMATE. 


promote  the  growth  of  the  crops.  The  prospects  of  the  harvest 
depend  upon  the  copiousness  of  the  rains  and  their  proper  distribu- 
tion throughout  the  year.  If  the  spring  and  winter  rains  are  deficient, 
this  cannot  he  made  up  hy  an  unusual  abundance  of  the  latter  rains. 
The  showers  are  generally  heavier  than  in  Europe;  the  average  yearly 
rainfall  is  26.05  inches. 

The  Mean  Annual  Temperature  at  Jerusalem  is  64°  Fahr. ;  the 
highest  observed  temperature  is  112°  (Aug.,  1881);  the  lowest  is 
25°  (Jan.,  1864).    The  following  figures  are  approximately  correct: 


Mean  Temperature.      Rainy  Days. 
January      46°  Fahr.         11.9 
February   48°     -  10.5 

8.9 
5.1 
1.6 
0.1 


March 

53° 

April 

63° 

May 

68° 

June 

73° 

Mean  Temperature.      Rainy  Days. 


July 
August 
September  74° 
October       68. 5n 
November  61° 
December  51. 5° 


76°   Fahr. 
76.r°     - 


0 
0 
0 
1.6 

6.4 
9.8 


The  climate  of  Syria  is  characterized  not  only  by  the  extreme 
annual  range  of  the  thermometer,  but  also  by  the  very  great  varia- 
tions of  temperature  within  the  limits  of  a  single  day,  amounting 
at  Jerusalem  to  23°  in  summer,  14.5°  in  winter.  In  the  steppes 
to  the  E.  of  the  Jordan,  even  as  late  in  the  year  as  March,  the  ther- 
mometer sometimes  falls  in  the  night  below  32°,  rising  again  at 
noon  to  77°  Fahr.  and  more  (comp.  Gen.  xxxi.  40).  In  Jerusalem, 
Damascus,  and  Aleppo  snow  is  no  infrequent  sight  in  winter,  though 
it  melts  very  quickly.  To  the  E.  of  the  Jordan,  however,  snow  lies 
for  several  days  and  in  the  mountains  of  Lebanon  all  the  year  round. 
The  summer-heat  on  the  seaboard  is  of  course  higher  than  that  of 
the  mountains,  but  it  is  tempered  by  the  cool  sea-breezes,  which 
also  bring  daily  relief  to  Jerusalem.  Observations  at  Beirut  show 
the  following  average  figures  : 


Mean  Average 
Temperature. 
January  68°  Fah  r. 
February  59°  - 
March  64°  - 
April  67°  - 
May  73°    - 

June  78°     - 


Rainy  Days. 

11 
11 

9 
5 
2 

1 


Mean  Average 
Temperature. 
July  83°  Fahr. 

August        83°      - 
September  82°     - 
October       78°     - 
November  67° 
December    63° 


Rainy  Days. 

0 
1 
1 

3 

7 
12 


The  heat  at  Dama  scus  and  Aleppo,  as  well  as  in  the  desert,  is 
necessarily  greater,  as  the  mountains  to  the  N.W.  keep  off  the  cool 
sea-breezes.  The  highest  temperature  is  reached  in  the  valley  of 
the  Jordan.  The  annual  mean  is  supposed  to  be  about  75°,  a  tropical 
heat  corresponding  to  the  climate  of  Nubia.  The  harvest  in  the 
valley  of  the  Jordan  begins  early  in  April;  in  the  hill-districts  and 
on  the  coast  it  is  8-10  days  later;  and  in  the  colder  mountain- 
regions  {e.g.  near  Jerusalem)  3-4  weeks  later. 

Winds.    The  direction  aud  character  of  the  winds  in  Syria  are 


,\- 


GEOLOGY. 


li 


determined  mainly  by  the  influence  of  the  trade-winds  and  by  a 
tolerably  regular  system  of  land  and  sea  winds.  The  N.  wind  is 
cold,  the  S.  wind  warm,  the  W.  wind  damp,  and  the  E.  wind  dry 
(comp.  1  Kings  xviii.  43  et  seq.;  Luke  xii.  54,  55).  On  the  average 
the  wind  blows  in  Palestine  from  the  W.  for  55  days,  bringing  rain ; 
from  the  S.  and  S.W.  for  46  days;  and  from  the  N.  and  N.W.  for 
114  days,  mitigating  the  heat  of  summer.  The  S.  and  E.  winds, 
blowing  from  hot  and  dry  regions,  are  pernicious  in  their  effects. 
The  S.E.  wind  ('Khamsin',  Sirocco),  which  has  no  ozone,  usually 
sets  in  in  May  and  before  the  rainy  season.  It  frequently  blows 
for  several  days  without  intermission ,  the  thermometer  rapidly 
rising  to  104°  Fahr.  and  more.  The  atmosphere  is  oppressively 
sultry  and  is  filled  with  fine  dust. 

Geology.  —  The  mountains  of  Palestine  consist  mainly  of  strata 
of  the* cretaceous  formation.  Earlier  pre-cretaceous  deposits  are 
represented  only  at  isolated  spots  by  a  breccia-like  conglomerate 
of  fragments  of  archaic  crystalline  slate  and  older  porphyric  erup- 
tive rocks,  interrupted  by  veins  of  still  earlier  eruptive  rooks. 
These  are  the  oldest  formations  in  Palestine.  They  occur  only  at 
the  S.E.  end  of  the  Dead  Sea  (Ohor  es-Sdfiyeh)  and  on  the  E.  verge 
of  the  'Araba,  where  they  are  covered  by  sandstone  and  dolomitic 
limestone  of  the  carboniferous  age. 

The  chalk  deposits  belong  to  the  Cenomanian,  Turonian,  and 
Senonian  series  of  the  upper  cretaceous  strata.  They  include  the 
following. 

(1.)  The  Nubian  sandstone  on  the  E.  bank  of  the  Dead  Sea. 

(2.)  Limestone,  marl,  aud  dolomite,  with  numerous  echinites, 
oysters, and  ammonites.  These  fossils  are  found  ztEs-Salt  and'AyHn 
M&sa  to  the  E.  of  the  Jordan  and  in  the  region  to  the  W.  of  Jeru- 
salem. In  the  latter  region  are  found  the  so-called  Mizzi  el-Ahmar, 
Deirydsini,  and  Mizzi  YehUdi  containing  Ammonites  Rotomagensis. 

(3.)  Limestone,  dolomite,  and  gravel  limestone,  with  Kudistse 
and  Nerinites.  To  these  belong  the  Melekeh,  or  tomb-rock,  and 
the  Mizzi  Helu,  which  are  found  in  the  city  of  Jerusalem. 

(4.)  Yellowish-white  limestone,  emitting  a  metallic  sound  when 
dropped  and  -containing  ammonites  (Ammonites  Quinquenodosus). 
This  is  the  Kakuleh  of  the  Mt.  of  Olives  and  is  used  for  inscribed 
tombstones. 

(5.)  White,  soft,  cretaceous  marl,  with  numerous  shells  of  con- 
chylia  (Leda  Perdita),  gastropods,  and  baculites. 

(6.)  Dark -grey  bituminous  limestone,  sometimes  containing 
phosphoric  acid,  and  holding  fossil  fish  (the  asphaltic  limestone  of 
Nebi  Miisfi).  This  alternates  with  variegated  red,  yellow,  grey-green, 
and  pure  white  marl,  with  abundant  gypsum  and  dolomite. 

(7.)  Flint  deposits  interspersed  with  limestone  and  marl,  in  the 
desert  of  Judsea. 

Nummulite  limestone,  which  belongs  to  the  eocene  formation, 

d* 


lii 


FLORA. 


is  of  rare  occurrence  in  Samaria  (Mt.  Ebal,  Gerizim),  but  is  com- 
moner in  Galilee.  The  upper  tertiary  formations  are  absent.  Diluvial 
deposits,  on  the  other  hand,  are  met  with  everywhere.  These  are 
partly  of  marine  origin,  on  the  present  coast  of  the  plain  of  Sharon 
and  of  the  Shefela,  extending  S.  beyond  Beersheba,  and  partly  la- 
custrine, dating  from  the  ancient  lake,  now  represented  by  the 
Dead  Sea  (p.  132).  The  dunes  of  sea-sand  on  the  coast  and  the 
alluvial  deposits  of  the  rivers  must  also  be  mentioned. 

Volcanic  rocks  are  found  widely  distributed  throughout  the 
entire  region  of  the  Lake  of  Tiberias  (Jolan),  in  the  plain  of  Jezreel, 
on  the  plateau  to  the  E.  of  the  Dead  Sea  (Jebel  Shihan),  and  still 
more  conspicuously  in  the  Hauran  and  the  district  of  Trachonitis. 

Flora.  —  We  may  distinguish  three  different  regions  of  Syrian 
vegetation. 

The  whole  of  the  coast-district  belongs  to  the  region  of  the  Med- 
iterranean Flora,  which  extends  around  the  basin  of  that  sea.  Of 
this  flora  the  most  characteristic  plants  are  numerous  evergreen 
shrubs  with  narrow,  leathery  leaves,  and  short-lived  spring-flowers. 
The  vegetation  of  the  coasts  of  Syria  and  Palestine  is  therefore  sim- 
ilar to  that  of  Spain,  Algeria,  and  Sicily.  The  squill,  tulip,  and 
anemone,  the  annual  grasses,  the  shrubs  of  oleander  and  myrtle, 
the  pine,  and  the  olive  clearly  distinguish  this  flora  as  a  member 
of  the  great  Mediterranean  family,  while  the  Melia  Azederach,  which 
abounds  on  the  coast  of  Phoenicia,  and  the  Ficus  Sycomorus  near 
Beirut  mark  the  transition  to  a  warmer  region. 

The  Oriental  Vegetation  of  the  Steppes  prevails  on  the  E.  slopes 
of  Lebanon,  on  the  highlands  of  Palestine,  and  in  the  more  inland 
country.  This  flora  is  characterized  by  numerous  small,  grey,  prickly 
bushes  of  Poterium;  the  grey,  aromatic  Eremostachys ;  brilliant,  but 
small  and  rapidly  withering  spring-plants;  in  summer,  the  pre- 
dominating Cousinia,  a  peculiar  kind  of  thistle  which  flourishes  at 
a  time  when  every  green  leaf  is  burnt  up;  on  the  hills  scanty  groups 
of  oaks  with  prickly  leaves,  pistachios,  etc.;  here  and  there  a  planta- 
tion of  conifers  (cedar,  juniper,  cypress,  Pinus  Brutid);  on  the 
mountain -tops  the  peculiar  spiny  dwarf  Astragalus  Acantholimon 
—  such  are  the  most  frequently  recurring  plants  of  the  Oriental 
family.  Others  of  a  much  handsomer  kind  are  also  met  with,  but 
these  are  exceptions. 

The  peculiar  climate  (pp.  xlix  et  seq.)  of  the  valley  of  the  Jordan 
gives  rise  to  a  Subtropical  Flora  resembling  that  of  Nubia  and  Abys- 
sinia. Here  occurs  the'Oshr  (CalotropUProceraJ,  a  plant  characteristic 
of  the  southern  Sahara,  the  umbrella-shaped  Acacia  Seyal,  the  blood- 
red  parasitic  Loranthus,  the  Trichodesma  Africana,  the  ForskaJUea, 
the  Aerua  Javanica,  the  Boerhavia  Verticillata,  the  Daemia  Cordata, 
the  Aristida;  then,  near  Engedi,  the  curious  Morinya  Aptera  (Arab. 
Ban),  and,  lastly,  on  Lakes  Huleh  and  Tiberias,  the  African  Papyrus 
Antiquorum  (pp.  252,  254). 


AGRICULTURE. 


liii 


Agriculture.  —  The  Biblical  description  of  Palestine  as  'a 
land  flowing  'with  milk  and  honey'  must  be  interpreted  from  the 
point  of  view  of  a  dweller  in  the  steppes,  to  whom  an  oasis  ■with  its 
springs  seems  a  veritable  Paradise.  It  has  never  produced  a  super- 
fluity of  the  fruits  of  the  earth,  though  it  is  fertile  enough  to  supply 
its  denizens  with  the  needs  of  life  in  return  for  a  moderate  amount  of 
labour.  Even  the  'desert'  affords  luxuriant  pasture  after  the  early  rain. 
Syria,  and  particularly  the  plain  of  the  Hauran,  is  more  fruitful. 
Under  the  Turkish  domination  the  economical  development  of  the 
soil  has  been  steadily  retrograde.  The  recent  improvement,  especi- 
ally in  Palestine,  is  due  mainly  to  the  exertions  of  the  German  and 
other  foreign  colonies.  The  fields  of  the  German  colonists  in  the 
plain  of  Sharon,  e.g.,  yield  an  eightfold  return  of  wheat,  and  nearly 
twice  as  much  barley ;  while  in  the  Hauran  the  return  is  even  larger. 

Grain.  The  so-called  Nukra,  the  great  plain  of  the  Hauran, 
which  once  supplied  a  great  part  of  the  Roman  Empire,  is  to  this  day 
the  granary  of  Northern  Arabia.  From  wheat  is  made  the  burghul, 
the  ordinary  food  of  the  Syrian  peasant,  a  kind  of  dough  boiled  with 
leaven  and  dried  in  the  sun.  The  poorer  classes  make  bread  of  barley, 
but  this  grain  is  generally  given  to  the  cattle.  Oats  are  not  culti- 
vated in  Syria,  though  wild  varieties,  unfit  for  use,  are  frequently 
found.  Besides  wheat  and  barley  there  are  crops  of  dohn  wheat  (Hol- 
cus  Sorghum);  and  rye,  maize,  beans,  peas,  and  lentils  also  occur, 
sometimes  in  peculiar  varieties.  The  chief  markets  for  the  export 
of  grain  are  Beirut,  Tripoli,  Alexandretta,  Jaffa,  Haifa,  and  Gaza. 

The  culture  of  the  Vine,  which  was  important  in  antiquity,  al- 
most died  out  under  the  Arabs,  but  is  now  again  steadily  increas- 
ing. Wine  is  now  chiefly  made  and  exported  by  the  French  in  Leb- 
anon, and  the  German  and  Jewish  colonies  on  Carmel  and  in  Jaffa 
and  Jerusalem.  A  kind  of  syrup  (dibs)  is  frequently  made  by 
boiling  down  the  grapes ;  and  a  similar  syrup  is  prepared  from  figs 
and  other  fruits.  Considerable  quantities  of  raisins  are  grown  round 
Damascus,  Es-Salt,  and  Hebron.  The  vines  are  trained  along  the 
ground  and  sometimes  on  trellises  or  trees. 

The  tree  most  frequently  planted  throughout  Lebanon  is  the 
Mulberry  Tree  with  white  fruit  (Morus  Alba),  which  was  first  in- 
troduced in  the  6th  cent,  and  is  frequently  mentioned  in  the  history 
of  the  Crusades.  The  silk-culture  is  also  of  growing  importance  in 
N.  Syria.  The  native  silk-manufacture  has  greatly  fallen  off  since 
ancient  times.  Raw  silk  and  silk-worm  cocoons  to  the  average  value 
of  6-800, 0001.  are  annually  shipped  from  Beirut  to  Marseilles. 

Cotton  is  chiefly  cultivated  in  N.  Syria ,  the  greatest  export 
being  from  Mersina  (60-80, 0001.  annually).  The  native  cotton- 
making  industry  is  inconsiderable. 

Syria  is  the  native  land  of  the  Olive,  and  olives  (zeitun)  are  still 
a  staple  product  of  the  country ,  but  they  are  chiefly  used  for  home 
consumption  and  for  the  manufacture  of  soap  (exported  annually  to 


Ivi 


FAUNA. 


animals.  Fallow  Deer  are  occasionally  met  with  in  N.  Palestine. 
Bears  are  sometimes  seen  on  Mt.  Hermon  and  in  Lebanon,  as 
well  as  in  Gilead  and  Bashan.  Badgers  are  common  in  the  N.,  and 
appear  as  far  S.  as  Jaffa  and  Jerusalem.  The  Dormouse  is  often 
found,  especially  in  the  oases  of  the  valley  of  Jericho. 

The  Ethiopian  fauna  of  the  S.  region  are  denizens  of  the  steppes 
and  rocks.  Among  feline  species,  the  Panther,  common  in  ancient 
times,  is  now  only  occasionally  met  with  round  the  Dead  Sea  and 
in  Gilead,  while  the  Lion  has  become  extinct  since  the  days  of  the 
Crusades  (comp.  p.  131).  Wild  Boars  are  found  all  over  Palestine, 
even  in  the  desert,  and  are  fairly  common;  their  flesh,  however,  is 
partaken  of  neither  by  the  Muslims  nor  by  the  native  Christians. 
The  flesh  of  the  Gazelle,  on  the  other  hand,  the  commonest  of  the 
various  species  of  big  game,  is  very  palatable  and  freely  used.  The 
Ibex  occurs  chiefly  in  Moab  and  the  Dead  Sea  gorges.  Various  kinds 
of  mice  are  found,  including  the  graceful  little  Jerboa,  or  jumping- 
mouse  of  the  desert.  The  curious  family  of  the  Hyracidae,  other- 
wise confined  to  Africa,  is  represented  on  the  Peninsula  of  Sinai 
and  in  Palestine  by  the  Syrian  Hyrax  or  Daman  {Hyrax  Syriacus ; 
<50mp.  p.  171),  spoken  of  in  the  Bible  a?  the  rcony'. 

The  Indian  fauna  include  the  Wolf  (smaller  than  the  European 
species),  which  is  fairly  common  in  Palestine  and  on  the  Lebanon 
range;  the  Jackal,  spoken  of  as  ffox'  in  the  Bible,  whose  howling 
and  whimpering  are  often  heard  at  night;  and  the  Hyena,  an  animal 
not  dangerous  to  human  beings. 

Bats,  of  which  there  are  many  varieties,  are  common. 

The  Birds,  also,  may  be  divided  into  groups  belonging  to  the 
two  zoological  regions  represented.  Numerous  birds  of  passage 
visit  the  country,  and  some  hibernate  in  it.  The  Cuckoo  is  often 
heard  in  the  spring,  and  large  flocks  of  Storks  and  Cranes  are  seen 
in  the  littoral  plain  and  the  Plain  of  Jezreel.  Besides  the  domestic 
hen  there  are  various  wild  gallinaceous  birds,  including  the  Rock 
Partridge  (Caccabis  Saxatilis),  which  is  met  with  in  the  hilly  country, 
and  the  small  grey  Sand  Partridge  (Ammoperdix  Heyi),  found  in  the 
neighbourhood  of  the  Dead  Sea.  There  are  Wild  Duck  in  the  valley 
of  the  Jordan,  and  Wild  Pigeons  abound  both  there  and  in  Lebanon. 
Quails  occur  in  all  the  cornfields  of  the  plains.  Among  the  birds  of 
prey  the  Eagle  and  the  Vulture  aTe  the  most  conspicuous,  the  for- 
mer haunting  the  wildernesses  about  the  Dead  Sea.  Owls  inhabit 
the  numerous  Tuins.  There  are  some  seven  kinds  of  Ravens  in 
Palestine.  Song-birds  are  not  numerous,  the  most  notable  being 
the  thrush-like  Nightingale  of  Palestine  (Arab,  bulbut). 

The  traveller  will  frequently  have  opportunities  of  observing 
the  'creeping  things'  of  Syria.  Of  Snakes  alone  there  are  no  less 
than  33  species,  some  of  which  are  poisonous;  nevertheless  snake- 
bites are  rare.  The  varieties  of  Lizards  number  44,  including  the 
harmless  little  Gecko,  recognizable  by  its  shrill  cry.   In  the  southern 


POLITICAL  DIVISIONS. 


lvii 


coast  -  districts  the  cpmmon  Chameleon  is  not  unfrequently  seen. 
Among  the  mountains  occurs  the  dark-coloured  Stellion  [Khardfin  of 
the  Arabs),  with  its  prickly  tail  and  back.  Variegated  Lizards  occur 
in  gardens.  The  swamps  of  the  Nahr  ez-Zerkd  (p.  232)  are  the  only 
spot  out  of  Africa  where  the  African  species  of  Crocodile  is  found.  The 
land  Tortoise  is  common ;  the  small  water-tortoise  is  less  frequent. 

The  Jordan  and  the  Lake  of  Tiberias  abound  in  Fish,  of  which 
43  different  species  have  been  counted.  For  the  curious  flsh  of  the 
Lake  of  Tiberias,  see  p.  249.  —  Sponge  Fishing  is  practised  on  the 
coast  to  the  N.  of  Beirut. 

Mosquitoes  are  not  particularly  virulent  in  Palestine,  except  in 
summer  near  swamps,  as  the  nights  are  too  cool  for  them.  Not  is 
much  danger  to  be  apprehended  from  the  Wasps  and  formidable- 
looking  Hornets.  The  nests  of  wild  Bees  are  often  found  in  clefts  of 
the  rocks,  while  hives  of  tame  bees,  generally  in  the  form  of  cylin- 
drical vessels  of  earthenware,  are  frequently  seen.  —  Grasshoppers 
or  Locusts,  which  often  entirely  devour  the  crops,  are  a  terror  to  the 
husbandman.    They  are  eaten  by  the  Beduins. 

Political  Divisions.  —  Syria  belongs  to  Turkey  in  Asia  and  is 
divided  into  the  following  provinces :  —  (1)  the  Vilayet  of  Aleppo, 
with  the  3  Liwas  of  Aleppo,  Mar'ash,  and  Urfa;  (2)  the  indepen- 
dent Liwa  of  Z6r  (Deir  ez-Zdr) ;  (3)  the  Vilayet  of  Beirut,  including 
the  coast  S.  of  the  mouth  of  the  Orontes,  the  mountain-district  of 
the  Nosairiyeh  and  Lebanon  to  the  S.  of  Tripoli,  further  the  town  of 
Beirut  and  the  country  between  the  sea  and  the  Jordan  from  Said  a 
to  the  N.  of  Jaffa.  It  is  divided  into  5  Liwas :  Ladikiyeh,  Tarabulus, 
Beirut,  fAkka  (Acre),  and  Nabulus.  (4)  Lebanon,  from  the  S.  of 
Tripoli  to  the  N.  of  Saida,  exclusive  of  the  town  of  Beirut,  forms  an 
independent  Liwa,  administered  by  a  governor  with  the  rank  of 
Mushir ;  (5)  the  Vilayet  of  Sfiriya  (Syria)  comprises  the  country 
from  Hama.  to  the  Hejaz.  The  capital  is  Damascus.  The  Vilayet 
is  divided  into  the  Liwas  of  Hama,  Damascus,  Hauran,  and  Kerak. 
(6)  El-Kuds  or  Jerusalem  is  an  independent  Liwa  under  a  Mutesarrif 
of  the  first  class.  —  At  the  head  of  each  Vilayet  is  a  Vdli  or  governor- 
general,  whose  province  is  divided  into  departments  (Sanjak,  Liwa), 
each  presided  over  by  a  Mutesarrif;  each  department  again  contains  so 
many  divisions  (Kaimmakamlik,  Kadi),  each  under  a  KdimmakStm; 
and  these  again  are  divided  into  districts  (Mudiriyeh,  Nahiya)  under 
Mudirs.  The  independent  Liwas  of  Ez-Z6r  and  El-Kuds  stand  in 
direct  connection  with  the  central  government  at  Constantinople. 

Many  of  the  Local  Names  date  back  to  the  earliest  times,  a 
state  of  affairs  due  to  the  fact  that  the  various  Semitic  races  that 
took  possession  of  the  country  did  not  expel  the  earlier  inhabitants 
by  force  but  gradually  overspread  the  land  and  became  blended  with 
them.  It  is  only  in  those  districts  which  have  been  conquered  by 
genuine  Arabs  (Beduins)  that  the  old  place-names  have  vanished. 


Iviii 


IV.   Population.    Religions.    Costumes  and  Customs. 

Ethnographically,  the  Population  of  Syria  consists  of  Syrians, 
Arabs,  Turks,  Jews,  and  Franks;  according  to  religions,  of  Moham- 
medans, Christians,  Jews,  and  various  other  sects. 

By  Syrians  we  understand  the  descendants  of  all  those  peoples 
who  spoke  Aramaic  (a  dialect  akin  to  Hebrew)  at  the  beginning  of 
our  era,  with  the  exception  of  the  Jews.  Some  of  these  have  re- 
mained loyal  to  the  Christian  faith,  while  others  have  embraced 
El-Islam.  The  Aramaic  language  gave  place  to  the  Arabic,  though 
the  former  held  its  ground  for  a  considerable  time.  The  only  trace 
of  Aramaic  at  the  present  day  is  an  admixture  of  that  language  with 
the  Arabic  spoken  in  three  villages  of  the  Anti-Libanus.  The  race 
of  Arabian  dwellers  in  towns  has  been  modified  by  admixture  of  the 
Syrian  type  (as  it  has  been  in  Egypt  by  the  Coptic). 

The  Arabian  Population  consists  of  hddari,  or  settled,  and 
bedawi  (pi.  bedu),  or  nomadic  tribes.  The  settled  population  is  of 
very  mixed  origin,  but  the  Beduins  are  mostly  of  pure  Arab  blood. 
They  are  the  direct  descendants  of  the  half-savage  nomads  who  have 
inhabited  Arabia  from  time  immemorial.  Their  dwellings  consist  of 
portable  tents  made  of  black  goats'  hair.  (Such  doubtless  were  the 
black  tents  of  Kedar  mentioned  in  Solomon's  Song,  i.  5.)  The 
material  is  woven  by  the  Beduin  women,  and  is  of  very  close  tex- 
ture, almost  impervious  to  rain.  The  tent  is  divided  into  two  com- 
partments, one  for  the  women,  the  other  for  the  men.  The  Beduin 
possess  immense  herds  of  sheep  and  camels.  They  generally  live 
very  poorly,  their  chief  food  being  bread  and  milk ;  but  when  a 
guest  arrives  they  kill  a  sheep  or  a  goat.  They  are  very  fond  of 
singing,  story-telling,  and  poetry,  which  last,  however,  is  at  pre- 
sent in  a  state  of  very  imperfect  development.  Of  religion  they 
know  little.  Every  tribe  of  Beduins  is  presided  over  by  a  sheikh, 
whose  authority,  however,  is  more  or  less  limited  by  the  jealousy 
of  his  clansmen ;  nor  is  he  always  the  principal  leader  in  time  of 
war.  War  occupies  much  of  the  time  of  these  tribes,  the  occasion 
being  usually  some  quarrel  about  pastures  or  wells.  The  law  of 
retaliation  also  causes  many  complications.  For  thousands  of  years 
there  has  been  constant  hostility  between  the  peasantry  and  the 
nomadic  tribes,  and  it  requires  the  utmost  efforts  of  government  to 
protect  the  former  against  the  extortions  of  the  latter.  It  some- 
times happens,  however,  that  the  peasantry  prefer  paying  'brother- 
hood' (khuwweh,  a  tribute  in  grain),  or  blackmail,  to  their  predat- 
ory neighbours,  to  trusting  to  the  protection  of  government.  The 
Beduins  consist  of  two  main  branches  :  one  of  these  consists  of  the 
'Aenezeh,  who  migrate  in  winter  towards  Central  Arabia,  while  the 
other  embraces  those  tribes  which  remain  permanently  in  Syria.  The 
'Aenezeh  at  the  present  day  form  the  most  powerful  section  of  the 
Beduins,  and  are  subdivided  into  four  leading  tribes  (Kabileh)  — 


STATISTICS. 


lix 


the  Wuld'Ali,  the  Heseneh,  the  Ruwald,  and  the  Bisher,  numhering 
altogether  about  25-30,000  souls.  Only  a  few  settled  tribes,  practis- 
ing agriculture,  are  resident  in  Palestine,  the  Hauran,  the  Bika', 
and  N.  Syria;  thus  in  the  valley  of  the  Jordan  are  the  so-called 
Ghor  Arabs  (Ohawdrineh),  and  the  Beni  Sakhr  in  Moab.  These  are 
called  lahl  esh-shemdl',  or  people  of  the  North,  while  the  Beduins 
to  the  S.  of  the  Dead  Sea  are  known  as  'ahl  el-kibli',  or  people  of 
the  South. 

The  Turks  are  not  a  numerous  class  of  the  community  in  Syria. 
They  are  intellectually  inferior  to  the  Arabs,  but  the  lower  classes 
are  generally  characterized  by  patriarchal  simplicity  of  manner, 
piety,  uprightness,  truthfulness,  and  kindness  towards  the  poor. 
The  effendi,  or  Turkish  gentleman,  however,  is  sometimes  proud 
and  arrogant.  The  corruption  of  the  official  class  is  undeniable,  but 
there  are  many  praiseworthy  exceptions.  As  the  governors  of  the 
provinces  are  frequently  changed,  the  efforts  of  any  one  of  them  to 
raise  the  level  of  his  countrymen  must  needs  be  more  or  less  futile. 
There  are  two  parties  of  Turks  —  the  Old,  and  the  Young,  or  liberal 
party.  In  N.  Syria,  as  well  as  on  the  Great  Hermon,  are  still  several 
nomadic  Turkish  tribes,  or  Turcomans,  whose  mode  of  life  is  the 
same  as  that  of  the  Beduin  Arabs. 

The  Jews  who  remained  in  the  country  were  but  few  in  number; 
most  of  those  who  now  reside  in  Palestine  are  comparatively  recent 
settlers  from  Europe  (see  pp.  lxii,  lxiii). 

The  Franks  (Europeans)  form  a  very  small  proportion  of  the 
population.  Distinct  from  them  are  the  so-called  ' Levantines' ',  Euro- 
peans (especially  Italians  and  Greeks)  or  descendants  of  Europeans, 
who  have  entirely  adopted  the  manners  of  the  country. 

Statistics.  The  table  on  p.  lx  gives  the  latest  official  figures 
for  the  principal  vilayets,  but  these  are  perhaps  not  absolutely 
reliable.  We  may  reckon  in  addition  the  population  of  the  liwa  of 
Zor  at  100,000.  The  total  population  of  Syria  is  therefore  notmoro 
than  3  or  B1/^  millions,  of  whom  about  700,000  are  in  Palestine. 
This  gives  about  31  inhab.  per  sq.  M.  (67-68  in  Palestine)  as  com- 
pared with  153  in  New  York  State  and  437  in  England. 

Religions.  The  three  Semitic  races  which  people  Syria,  Jews, 
Syrians,  and  Arabs,  are  similar  in  intellectual  character.  The  Sem- 
ites possess  a  rich  fund  of  imagination,  but  little  capacity  forab- 
stract  thought.  They  have  therefore  never  produced  any  philosoph- 
ical system,  properly  so  called,  nor  have  they  ever  developed  the 
higher  forms  of  epic  or  dramatic  poetry.  On  the  other  hand,  the 
three  great  religions,  the  Jewish,  the  Christian,  and  indirectly  also 
the  Mohammedan,  have  had  their  origin  in  Syria,  and  the  Semites 
are  thus  entitled  to  a  very  important  rank  in  the  world's  history. 

The  Muslims  (Muslimin,  Asldm)  form  about  three-fourths  of  the 
whole  population  of  Syria.   They  still  regard  themselves  as  possess- 


>ijua+t 


«tL 


~w&? 


lx 


RELIGIONS. 


Mutesar- 
riflik  of 
Jerusalem 

Vilayet  of 
Beirut 

Vilayet  of 
Suriya 

Lebanon 

Vilayet  of 
Aleppo 

Muslims 

251,332 

230,173 

585,219 

30,422 

768,449 

Christians 

44,389 

166,443 

264,631 

319,296 

183,309 

Latins 

24,793 

3,655 

3,700 

13S 

1,858 

Maronites 

401 

51,093 

24,577 

229,680 

2,989 

United  Greeks 

1,014 

31,372 

49,734 

34,472 

24,815 

Un.  Syrians 

179 

2,100 

22,571 

30 

20,913 

Un.  Armenians 

499 

930 

— 

30 

18,000 

Un.  Chaldreans 

— 

— 

— 

_ 

17,865 

Syr.  Jacobites 

150 

— 

18.843 

— 

26,812 

Orthod.  Nestorians 

— 

— 

— 

— 

15,300 

Orthod.  Greeks 

16,039 

72,167 

138,081 

54203 

23,725 

Gregor.  Armenians 

715 

2,001 

1,100 

— 

19,999 

Protestants 

599 

3,125 

6,025 

738 

11,033 

Jews 

39,866 

25,136 

5,380 

— 

20,000 

Druses 

— 

1,575 

100,450 

49,812 

— 

Nosairiyeh 

— 

95,720 

— 

— 

24,000 

Ismailians 

— 

9,000 

— 

— 

— 

Foreigners 

6,051 

5,507 

not  separately  counted 

341,638 

533,554 

955,680  i  399,630 

995,758 

Sq.  Miles 

8,470 

11,742 

38,500!    25,025 

30,415 

per  sq.  M. 

40.3 

45.5 

24.6 

160 

32.7 

ors  of  the  special  favour  of  God ,  preferred  by  Him  to  all  other 
nations.  In  Egypt  European  influence  has  greatly  mitigated  the 
arrogance  of  Muslims  towards  strangers ;  but  in  Syria  El-Islam  is 
conscious  of  having  retained  its  hold  on  the  bulk  of  the  population. 
The  Muslims,  however,  can  scarcely  be  said  to  be  more  fanatical 
than  the  adherents  of  the  other  religions.  In  the  ordinary  traffic  of 
life  they  are  more  trustworthy  than  the  native  Christians.  Of  late 
years  competition  has  induced  the  Muslims  to  establish  numerous 
schools  (kuttdb,  medreseh  rushdiyeh).  Further  details  respecting  El- 
Islam  will  be  found  at  pp.  lxv  et  seq. 

The  Christians  of  the  East  chiefly  belong  to  the  Greek  Church. 
The  members  of  this  church  are  named  Bum  or  Rum  Urtuduks 
(Orthodox  Greeks),  and  speak  Arabic,  hence  their  services  are  usually 
conducted  in  that  language.  Most  of  the  superior  clergy,  however, 
are  Greeks  by  birth,  who  read  mass  in  Greek.  The  Greeks  possess 
many  schools,  in  the  upper  classes  of  which  the  Greek  language  is 
taught.  The  Syrian  members  of  the  church  are  divided  into  two 
patriarchates.  The  Patriarch  of  Jerusalem  has  jurisdiction  over  the 
greater  part  of  Palestine,  while  a  number  of  bishops  'in  partibus 
infldelium'  (Metropolites,  called  'matrans')  reside  in  the  monastery 
at  Jerusalem,  being  appointed  with  a  view  to  enhance  the  impor- 
tance of  their  chief.  The  bishops  of  Acre  and  Bethlehem,  on  the 
other  hand,  reside  in  their  dioceses.  To  the  patriarchate  of  Antioch 
belong  the  dioceses  from  Tyre  to  Asia  Minor,  including  Damascus, 


RELIGIONS. 


lxi 


Aleppo,  Ba'albek,  Seidnaya,  etc.  The  Greeks  are  generally  very 
fanatical,  but  the  Latins  are  far  more  bitterly  hated  by  them  than 
the  Protestants.  The  Greek  Church  is  coming  more  and  more  under 
the  influence  of  Russia,  thanks  to  the  propaganda  of  the  riehly- 
endowed  Russian  Palestine  Society,  which  has  re-established  and 
maintains  numerous  hospices  and  schools ,  including  a  normal 
seminary. 

Armenians  and  Coptic  Monophysites  are  almost  unknown,  except 
at  Jerusalem,  but  the  Syrian  Monophysite  or  Jacobite  Church  is  more 
important.  The  Monophysites  adhere  to  the  doctrine,  condemned  by 
the  Council  of  Chalcedon  (451),  that  Christ  possesses  one  nature 
only ;  or,  in  other  words,  they  admit  the  existence  of  his  two  natures, 
but  maintain  that  in  him  they  became  one.  The  Jacobites  derive 
their  name  from  a  certain  Jacob  Barada'i,  Bishop  of  Edessa  (d.  587), 
who  during  the  persecution  of  this  sect  under  Justinian  I.  wandered 
through  the  East  in  poverty,  and  succeeded  in  making  numerous 
proselytes.  Like  the  Greeks,  they  use  leavened  bread  for  the  com- 
munion, and  cross  themselves  with  one  finger  only.  Some  of  them 
still  speak  Syrian,  and  their  ecclesiastical  language  is  ancient  Syrian. 
The  patriarch  of  the  Jacobites,  whose  title  is  'Patriarch  of  Antioch', 
now  resides  at  Diarbekr  (p.  400)  and  Mardin  (p.  403),  where  most  of 
the  Jacobites  live.  These  Syrians  are  for  the  most  part  poor  and  of 
very  humble  mental  capacity,  and  their  monks  are  deplorably  igno- 
rant. The  Jacobite  monks,  like  the  Greek,  never  eat  meat.  The  Greeks 
and  Syrians  use  the  Greek  calendar;  and  the  monks  still  sometimes 
reckon  from  the  era  of  the  Seleucidae  (beginning  312  B.C.). 

The  Nestorians,  formerly  called  in  India  'St.  Thomas  Christians', 
are  met  with  in  N.  Syria  only  (vilayet  of  Aleppo),  their  main  set- 
tlements being  in  the  mountains  of  Kurdistan.  They  derive  their 
name  from  Nestorius,  Bishop  of  Constantinople  (d.  ca.  440),  whose 
teachings  were  condemned  at  the  Synod  of  Ephesus  in  431.  In 
contrast  to  the  Jacobites,  the  Nestorians  hold  that  the  two  natures 
of  Christ  are  quite  distinct  and  that  though  they  are  connected  they 
never  became  one.  They  regard  the  epithet  of  'Theotokos'  or 
'Mother  of  God'  applied  to  the  Virgin  as  pagan.  The  patriarch  has 
his  residence  in  Koshannes  in  the  Kurd  Mountains. 

Generally  speaking,  the  clergy  of  the  Roman  Catholic,  or  '■Latin' 
(Latin),  church  in  Syria,  thanks  to  the  propaganda  of  Rome  and  to 
the  efforts  of  many  Franks  of  that  faith  in  Palestine,  are  far  superior 
to  the  Greek  and  the  Syrian.  To  the  Latin  church  are  affiliated  the 
Oriental  Catholic  churches :  vis.  the  Greek  Catholic  (United  Greek, 
Rtim  Kdtulik),  the  Syrian  Catholic  (United  Syrian,  Surydn),  and  the 
Chaldaean  (United  Nestorians,  Kalddn).  These  churches,  however, 
have  hitherto  asserted  their  independence  of  Rome  in  some  parti- 
culars. They  celebrate  mass  in  their  own  tongue  (Greek,  Arabic, 
Armenian),  and  administer  the  sacrament  in  both  kinds,  and  their 
priests  may  be  married  men,  though  they  may  not  marry  after  ordi- 


lxii 


RELIGIONS. 


nation.  The  Greek  Catholic  church  is  governed  hy  a  patriarch,  known 
as  the  'Patriarch  of  Antioch',  who  resides  at  Damascus,  and  it  in- 
cludes the  wealthiest  and  most  aristocratic  of  the  Christians.  The 
Syrian  Catholics  have  a  patriarch,  also  known  as  'Patriarch  of  An- 
tioch', who  resides  at  Mardin  (p.  403),  but  sometimes  makes  a 
stay  at  Aleppo  or  Beirut.  The  patriarch  of  the  United  Chaldaeans 
is  called  the  Patriarch  of  Babylon,  and  has  his  residence  at  M6sul 
(p.  404). 

The  Maronites  also  belong  to  the  Romanists.  They  were  orig- 
inally Monothelites ;  that  is,  they  held  that  Christ  was  animated  by 
one  will  only.  Their  central  point  was  the  convent  of  St.  Maro, 
who  is  said  to  have  lived  in  the  6th  century.  The  Maronites  entered 
into  union  with  the  Romish  Church  in  consequence  of  the  Crusades, 
but  did  not  become  wholly  subject  to  it  till  about  the  year  1600, 
after  a  Collegium  Maronitarum  had  been  founded  at  Rome  in  1584, 
where  a  number  of  Maronite  scholars  distinguished  themselves.  The 
Maronite  church  still  possesses  special  privileges,  including  that  of 
reading  mass  in  Syrian,  and  the  right  of  the  inferior  clergy  to  marry. 
The  patriarch  ('Patriarch  of  Antioch')  resides  in  the  monastery  of 
Kannobin  (p.  330),  and  is  elected  by  the  bishops,  subject  to  the 
approval  of  Rome.  The  chief  seat  of  the  Maronites  is  in  Lebanon, 
particularly  in  Kesrawan  and  in  the  region  of  Bsherreh,  above  Tripoli, 
where  they  possess  many  handsome  monasteries,  some  of  which  even 
contain  printing-presses  for  their  liturgies  and  other  works.  The 
Maronites  live  by  agriculture  and  cattle-breeding,  and  the  silk-cul- 
ture forms  another  of  their  chief  occupations.  They  have  succeeded 
in  asserting  a  certain  degree  of  independence  of  the  Turkish  govern- 
ment (p.  288). 

Among  the  Latins  must  also  be  included  the  Frank  Monks, 
who  have  long  possessed  monasteries  of  their  own  in  the  Holy 
Land  (p.  xvii).  The  Franciscans  in  particular  deserve  great  credit 
for  the  zeal  they  have  manifested  in  providing  suitable  accommoda- 
tion for  pilgrims  at  many  different  places.  They  are  generally 
Italians  and  Spaniards,  and  more  rarely  Frenchmen.  The  schools 
over  -which  they  preside  exercise  a  very  beneficial  influence  on  the 
native  clergy.  —  A  Latin  patriarchate  has  been  established  at 
Jerusalem,  and  there  is  an  apostolic  delegate  in  Beirut. 

The  Protestants  have  been  converted  chiefly  through  the  agency 
of  the  different  missionaries.  Beirut  is  the  headquarters  of  the  Amer- 
icans (p.  276),  whose  influence  is  greatest  among  the  Christians 
of  Central  Syria.  The  mission  in  Palestine  is  conducted  by  the  Eng- 
lish (Church  Mission  Society  and  London  Society  for  Promoting 
Christianity  among  the  Jews)  and  the  Germans.  —  The  chief  re- 
proach directed  by  the  other  religious  communities  against  the  Prot- 
estants is  that  they  observe  no  fasts. 

The  Oriental  Jews  are  of  several  different  classes.  The  Scphardim 
are  Spanish-Portuguese  Jews ,  who  immigrated  after  the  expulsioti 


COSTUMES  AND  CUSTOMS. 


lxiii 


of  the  Jews  from  Spain  under  Isabella  I. ;  most  of  them  now  speak 
Arabic,  though  some  still  speak  a  Spanish  patois.  The  Ashkenazim 
are  from  Russia,  Galicia,  Hungary,  Bohemia,  Moravia,  Germany,  and 
Holland,  and  speak  the  dialect  known  as  Yiddish.  These  again  are 
subdivided  into  the  Perushim  and  the  Chasidim.  The  Jews  of  the 
East  have  retained  their  original  character  to  a  considerable  extent, 
and  are  generally  tall  and  slender  in  stature.  They  live  in  the  towns, 
generally  in  a  quarter  of  their  own. 

Costumes  and  Customs.  —  The  various  inhabitants  of  Syria 
are  differentiated  not  only  by  their  physical  characteristics  but  gen- 
erally also  by  their  costume.  The  traveller  will  soon  learn  to  distin- 
guish the  Jew  from  the  Christian  and  both  from  the  Muslim.  The 
Muslims  generally  wear  white  turbans  (Arab,  tarbush)  with  a  gold 
thread  woven  in  the  material,  while  the  descendants  (?)  of  the  pro- 
phet wear  green  turbans.  The  Druses  (p.  lxxiii)  wear  turbans  of 
snowy  whiteness.  The  peasants  and  Beduins  generally  wear  merely 
a  coloured  cloth  over  their  heads  (keffiyeh),  bound  with  a  cord  made 
of  wool  or  camels'  hair  ('agul).  The  Christians  in  the  towns  gen- 
erally wear  the  simple  red  fez,  or  sometimes  a  black  or  dark  turban. 
The  Jews  are  known  by  their  peculiar  side-locks  of  hair  and  broad- 
brimmed  felt  hats  or  turbans  of  dark  cloth.  The  Sephardim  wear 
black  turbans. 

The  traveller  will  often  have  occasion  to  observe  that  the  customs 
of  the  population  of  Syria,  especially  of  the  Muslims,  still  closely 
resemble  those  described  in  the  Bible. 

Circumcision  is  performed  on  boys  up  to  the  age  of  six  or  seven, 
or  even  later,  the  ceremony  being  attended  with  great  pomp.  The 
child  is  conducted  through  the  streets  on  a  handsomely  caparisoned 
horse,  the  procession  frequently  joining  some  bridal  party  in  order 
to  diminish  the  expense  of  the  proceedings.  The  boy  generally 
wears  a  turban  of  red  cashmere,  girls'  clothes  of  the  richest  poss- 
ible description,  and  conspicuous  female  ornaments  (especially 
gold  coins),  which  are  designed  to  attract  attention,  and  thus  avert 
the  evil  eye  from  his  person.  He  half  covers  his  face  with  an  em- 
broidered handkerchief;  and  the  barber  who  performs  the  operation 
and  a  noisy  troop  of  musicians  head  the  procession.  Two  or  more 
boys  are  frequently  thus  paraded  together. 

Girls  are  generally  married  in  their  12th  or  13th,  and  some- 
times as  early  as  their  10th  year.  The  man  in  search  of  a  bride 
employs  the  services  of  a  relative ,  or  of  women  whose  profession 
it  is  to  arrange  marriages,  and  he  never  has  an  opportunity  of  seeing 
his  bride  until  the  wedding-day,  except  when  the  parties  belong 
to  the  lowest  classes.  When  everything  is  arranged,  the  affianced 
bridegroom  has  to  pay  the  purchase  -  money.  Generally  speaking, 
about  two-thirds  of  the  sum,  the  amount  of  which  always  forms 
a  subject  of  lively  discussion,  is  paid  down,  while  one -third  is 
settled  upon  the  wife,  being  payable  on  the  death  of  the  husband, 


lxiv 


COSTUMES  AND  CUSTOMS. 


or  on  his  divorcing  her  against  her  will.  The  marriage-contract  is 
now  complete.  Before  the  wedding  the  bride  is  conducted  in  gala 
attire  and  with  great  ceremony  to  the  bath.  This  procession  is  called 
lzeffet  el-hammarri1 .  It  is  headed  by  musicians  with  hautbois  and 
drums ;  these  are  followed  by  several  married  friends  and  relatives 
of  the  bride  in  pairs,  and  after  these  come  a  number  of  young  girls. 
The  bride  is  entirely  concealed  by  the  clothing  she  wears,  being 
usually  enveloped  from  head  to  foot  in  a  cashmere  shawl ,  and 
wearing  on  hear  head  a  small  cap  or  crown  of  pasteboard.  Another 
body  of  musicians  brings  up  the  rear.  The  hideous  shrieks  of  joy 
which  women  of  the  lower  classes  utter  on  the  occasion  of  any  sen- 
sational event  are  called  zaghO.rU.  The  bride  is  afterwards  conducted 
with  the  same  formalities  to  the  house  of  her  husband. 

The  ceremonies  observed  at  funerals  are  not  less  remarkable 
than  those  which  attend  weddings.  If  the  death  occurs  in  the  morn- 
ing the  funeral  takes  place  the  same  day,  but  if  in  the  evening 
the  funeral  is  postponed  till  next  day.  The  body  is  washed  and 
mourned  over  by  the  family  and  the  professional  mourning-women 
(neddabehs);  the  fikth,  or  schoolmaster,  reads  several  surehs  of  the 
Koran  by  its  side ;  the  ears  and  nostrils  of  the  deceased  are  tilled 
with  cotton;  the  body  is  then  enveloped  in  its  white  or  green 
winding-sheet,  and  is  at  length  carried  forth  in  solemn  procession. 
The  foremost  persons  in  the  cortege  are  usually  several  poor,  and 
generally  blind,  men,  who  chant  the  creed  (p.  lxv),  in  order  that 
the  deceased  may  have  the  words  ready  when  he  is  examined  by 
the  angels  Munkar  and  Nekir  on  the  first  night  after  his  inter- 
ment. The  bier  is  borne  by  friends.  After  the  bier  come  the  fe- 
male relatives,  with  dishevelled  hair,  sobbing  aloud,  and  frequent- 
ly accompanied  by  professional  mourning- women  who  extol  the 
merits  of  the  deceased.  The  body  is  first  carried  into  the  mosque 
and  prayers  are  there  offered  on  its  behalf.  The  procession  then 
moves  towards  the  cemetery,  where  the  body  is  interred  in  such  a 
position  that  its  head  is  turned  towards  Mecca.  Another  custom 
peculiar  to  the  Muslims  is  that  the  separation  of  the  sexes  is  as 
strict  after  death  as  during  life.  In  family  vaults  one  side  is  set 
apart  for  the  men,  the  other  for  the  women  exclusively.  The  cata- 
falque bears  two  upright  columns  (shdhid)  of  stone.  On  one  of  these, 
over  the  head  of  the  body,  are  inscribed  texts  from  the  Koran  and 
the  name  and  age  of  the  deceased.  On  the  upper  extremity  is  re- 
presented the  turban  of  the  deceased,  which  shows  his  rank.  On 
festival  days  the  catafalque  is  adorned  with  flowers.  On  such  occa- 
sions the  female  relatives  frequently  remain  for  days  together  by  the 
tomb,  occupying  themselves  with  prayer  and  alms-giving.  As  it  was 
necessary  to  provide  accommodation  for  these  mourners,  it  became 
customary  to  construct  mausolea  with  subsidiary  apartments,  includ- 
ing apartments  for  the  family,  sebils  (p.  lxxiv)  and  schools,  stabling 
for  the  horses,  a  residence  for  the  custodian,  and  other  conveniences. 


lxv 


V.  Doctrines  of  El-Islam. 

El-Islam  is  the  most  extensively  disseminated  of  the  great  reli- 
gions and  its  power  is  still  on  the  increase. 

Mohammed*  as  a  religious  teacher  took  up  a  position  hostile  to 
the  'age  of  ignorance  and  barbarism',  as  he  called  heathenism.  The 
revelation  which  he  believed  it  was  his  mission  to  impart  was, 
as  he  declared  ,  nothing  new.  His  religion  was  of  the  most  remote 
antiquity,  all  men  being  supposed  by  him  to  be  born  Muslims, 
though  surrounding  circumstances  might  subsequently  cause  them 
to  fall  away  from  the  true  religion.  So  far  as  Mohammed  was 
acquainted  with  Judaism  and  Christianity,  he  disapproved  of  the 
rigour  of  their  ethics,  which  were  apt  to  degenerate  into  a  body  of 
mere  empty  forms,  while  he  also  rejected  their  dogmatic  teaching 
as  utterly  false.  Above  all  he  repudiated  whatever  seemed  to  him 
to  savour  of  polytheism,  including  the  doctrine  of  the  Trinity.  The 
Muslim  creed  is  embodied  in  the  words :  'There  is  no  God  but  God 
(Allah),  and  Mohammed  is  the  prophet  of  God' ft  (Id  ildhn  ill'  Allah, 
tea  Muhammedur-rasulu-lldh).  Everyone  is  bound  to  promulgate 
this  faith.   Practically,   however,  this  stringency  was  afterwards  re- 


+  Mohammed  ('the  praised'',  or  Ho  be  praised')  was  a  scion  on  the 
paternal  'side  of  the  family  of  Hdshim,  a  less  important  branch  of  the 
noble  family  of  Kureish,  who  were  settled  at  Mecca  and  were  custodians 
of  the  Ka'ba.  His  father  'Abdalldk  died_  shortly  before  his  birth  (about 
570).  In  his  sixth  year  his  mother  Amina  died.  The  boy  was  then  ed- 
ucated by  his  grandfather  'Abd  el-Mullalib,  and,  after  the  death  of  the  latter 
two  years  later,  by  his  uncle  Abu  Tdlib.  Mohammed  for  a  time  acted  as 
a  shepherd  and  afterwards  he  undertook  commercial  journeys,  at  first  in 
company  with  his  uncle,  and  then,  when  about  twenty-five  years  of  age, 
in  the  service  of  the  widow  Khadija,  who  became  his  first  wife.  On  one 
of  these  journeys  he  is  said  to  have  become  acquainted  with  the  Christian 
monk  Bahira  (p.  161)  at  Bosra. 

About  that  period  a  reaction  in  the  religious  life  of  the  Arabs  had 
set  in,  and  when  Mohammed  was  about  forty  years  of  age  he  too  was 
struck  with  the  vanity  of  idolatry.  He  honestly  believed  he  received  revela- 
tions from  heaven.  He  cannot  therefore  be  called  an  impostor.  A  dream 
which  he  had  on  Mt.  Hira  near  Mecca  gave  him  the  first  impulse,  and  ho 
soon  began  with  ardent  enthusiasm  to  promulgate  monotheism  and  to  warn 
his  hearers  against,  incurring  the  pains  of  hell.  His  new  doctrine  was 
called  Itldm,  or  subjection  to  God.  At  first  he  made  converts  in  his  own 
family  only,  and  the  'Muslims'1  were  persecuted  by  the  Meccans.  Many 
of  them,  and  at  length  Mohammed  also  (022),  accordingly  emigrated  to 
Medina  (p.  lxxiv),  where  the  new  religion  made  great  progress.  After  the 
death  of  Khadija  Mohammed  took  several  other  wives,  partly  from  polit- 
ical motives. 

He  now  endeavoured  to  stir  up  the  Meccans  ,  and  war  broke  out  in 
consequence.  He  was  victorious  at  Bedr  (624),  but  lost  the  battle  of  the 
Uhud  (625).  His  military  campaigns  were  thenceforth  incessant.  In  630 
the  Muslims  at  length  captured  the  town  of  Mecca,  and  the  idols  were 
destroyed.  Mohammed's  health,  however,  had  been  completely  undermined 
by  his  unremitting  exertions  for  about  twenty-four  years ;  he  died  on 
8th  June,  632,  at  Medina  and  was  interred  there. 

tt  Allah  is  also  the  name  of  God  used  by  the  Jews  and  Christians 
who  speak  Arabic. 

Baedekek's  Palestine  and  Syria.  4th  Edit.  e 


lxvi 


DOCTRINES  OF  EL-ISLAM. 


laxcd,  as  the  Muslims  found  themselves  obliged  to  enter  into  pacific 
treaties  with  nations  beyond  the  confines  of  Arabia.  A  distinction 
was  also  drawn  between  peoples  who  were  already  in  possession  of 
a  revelation,  such  as  Jews,  Christians,  and  Sabians,  and  idolaters, 
the  last  of  whom  were  to  be  rigorously  persecuted. 

The.  foregoing  formula,  however,  contains  the  most  important 
doctrine  only;  for  the  Muslim  is  bound  to  believe  in  three  cardinal 
points:  (1}  God  and  the  angels,  [2)  written  revelation  and  the 
prophets,  and  (3)  the  resurrection,  judgment,  eternal  life,  and  pre- 
destination. 

(1).  Gon  and  tiik  Angels.  God  is  a  Spirit,  embracing  all 
perfection  within  Himself.  Ninety-nine  of  Ms  different  attributes 
were  afterwards  gathered  from  the  Koran,  and  these  now  form  the 
Muslim  rosary.  Great  importance  is  also  attached  to  the  fact  that 
the  creation  of  the  world  was  effected  by  a  simple  effort  of  the 
divine  will.  (God  said  'Let  there  be',  and  there  was.)  The  story  of 
the  creation  in  the  Koran  is  taken  from  the  Bible,  witli  variations 
from  Rabbinical,  Persian,  and  other  sources.  God  first  created  his 
throne ;  beneath  the  throne  was  water ;  then  the  earth  was  formed.  In 
order  to  keep  the  earth  steady,  God  created  an  angel  and  placed  him 
on  a  huge  rock,  which  in  its  turn  rests  on  the  back  and  horns  of  the 
bull  of  the  world.  And  thus  the  earth  is  kept  in  its  proper  position. 

In  connection  with  the  creation  of  the  firmament  is  that  of  the 
Jinn  (demons),  beings  occupying  a  middle  rank  between  men 
and  angels,  some  of  them  believing,  others  unbelieving.  When  the 
jinn  became  arrogant,  an  angel  was  ordered  to  banish  them,  and  lie 
accordingly  drove  them  to  the  mountains  of  Kaf  by  which  the  earth 
is  surrounded,  whence  they  occasionally  make  incursions.  Adam 
was  then  created  on  the  evening  of  the  sixth  day,  and  the  Muslims 
on  that  account  observe  Friday  as  their  Sabbath.  As  the  angel  who 
conquered  the  jinn  refused  to  bow  down  before  Adam,  he  was  exiled 
and  thenceforward  called  Iblis,  or  the  devil.  The  fall  of  man  is 
connected  with  Mecca  and  the  Ka'ba;  Adam  was  there  reunited  to 
Eve ;  and  the  black  stone  derives  its  colour  from  Adam's  tears. 

The  Angels  are  the  bearers  of  God's  throne  and  execute  his  com- 
mands. They  also  act  as  mediators  between  God  and  men.  When 
a  Muslim  prays  it  will  be  observed  that  he  turns  his  face  at  the  con- 
clusion first  over  his  right  and  then  over  his  left  shoulder.  Ho 
thereby  greets  the  recording  angels  who  stand  on  each  side  of  every 
believer,  one  on  the  right  to  record  his  good,  and  one  on  the  left  to 
record  his  evil  deeds. 

While  there  are  legions  of  good  angels  ,  who  differ  in  form,  but 
are  purely  ethereal  in  substance,  there  arc  also  innumerable  sa- 
tellites of  Satan,  who  seduce  men  to  error  and  teach  them  sorcery. 
They  endeavour  to  pry  into  the  secrets  of  heaven,  to  prevent  which 
they  are  pelted  with  falling  stars  by  the  good  angels.  (This  last  is 
a  notion  of  very  great  antiquity.) 


DOCTRINES  OF  EL-ISLAM. 


lxvii 


i'2|.  Writtbn  Rkvklation  and  tiik  PxioniKTs.  The  earliest  men 
WIT.  all  believers,  but  they  afterwards  fell  away  from  the  true  faith. 
A  revelation  therefore  became  necessary.  The  prophets  are  very 
mm  erous,  amounting  in  all,  it  is  said,  to  124,000;  but  their  ranks 
are  ^ery  different.  They  are  free  from  all  gross  sins  and  are  endowed 
by  God  with  power  to  work  miracles,  which  power  forms  their  cre- 
dentials; nevertheless,  they  are  generally  disregarded.  The  greatpro- 
phets  are  Adam,  Noah,  Abraham,  Moses,  Jesus,  and  Mohammed. 

Abraham  (Ibrahim),  being  through  Ishmael  the  progenitor  of  the 
Aral  s,  is  regarded  as  a  personage  of  the  utmost  importance,  and  in 
the  Koran,  as  in  the  Bible,  he  is  styled  the  'friend  of  God'  (comp. 
James  ii.  23).  Mohammed  himself  was  desirous  of  restoring  the 
'religion  of  Abraham' .  Abraham  was  represented  as  having  built 
the  Ka'ba,  where  his  footprints  are  still  shown.  One  of  the  most 
beautiful  passages  in  the  Koran  is  in  Sureh  vi.  76,  where  Abraham 
is  represented  as  first  acquiring  a  knowledge  of  the  one  true  God. 
His  father  was  a  heathen,  and  Nimrod  at  the  time  of  Abraham's 
birth  had  ordered  all  new-born  children  to  be  slain  (a  legend  ob- 
viously borrowed  from  the  Slaughter  of  the  Innocents  at  Bethlehem). 
Abraham  was  therefore  brought  up  in  a  cavern,  which  he  quitted  in 
his  fifteenth  year.  'And  when  the  darkness  of  night  came  over  him 
he  beheld  a  star  and  said  —  That  is  my  Lord ;  but  when  it  set,  he 
said  —  I  love  not  those  who  disappear.  Now  when  he  saw  the  moon 
rise,  he  said  again  —  This  is  my  Lord  ;  but  when  she  also  set,  he 
exclaimed  —  Surely  my  Lord  has  not  guided  me  hitherto  that  I 
might  belong  to  erring  men.  Now  when  he  saw  the  sun  rise,  he 
spake  again  —  That  is  my  Lord ;  he  is  greater.  But  when  he  like- 
wise set,  he  exclaimed  —  0  people,  I  will  have  nothing  to  do  with 
what  ye  idolatrously  worship  ;  for  I  turn  my  face  steadfastly  towards 
Him  who  created  heaven  and  earth  out  of  nothing;  and  I  belong 
not  to  those  who  assign  Him  partners !'  , 

In  the  story  of  Jesus  Mohammed  has  perpetrated  an  absurd^aua- 
chronism,  Mary  being  confounded  with^Miri  am,  the  sister  of  Moses. 
Jesus  is  called  'ha  in  the  Koran;  but  Tsa  is  properly  Esau,  a  name 
of  reproach  among  the  Jews  ;  and  this  affords  us  an  indication  of  the 
source  whence  Mohammed  derived  most  of  his  information.  On  the 
other  hand,  Jesus  is  styled  the  'Word  of  God',  as  in  the  Gospel  of 
St.  John.  A  parallel  is  also  drawn  in  the  Koran  between  the  creation 
of  Adam  and  the  nativity  of  Christ;  like  Adam,  Jesus  is  said  to 
have  been  a  prophet  from  childhood,  and  to  have  wrought  miracles 
which  surpassed  those  of  all  other  prophets,  including  even  Mo- 
hammed himself.  He  proclaimed  the  Gospel,  and  thus  confirmed 
the  Torah  ;  but  in  certain  particulars  the  law  was^abrogated  by  him. 
Another  was  crucified  in  his  stead,  but  God  caused  Jesus  also  to 
die  for  a  few  hours  before  taking  him  up  into  heaven. 

The  position  which  Mohammed  occupies  in  his  own  religious 
system  is  also  of  interest.   Moses  and  Christ  prophesied  his  advent, 


1  x  v  i  i  i 


DOCTRINES  OF  EL-ISLAM. 


but  the  passages  concerning  him  in  the  Torah  and  Gospel  have  been 
suppressed.  He  is  the  promised  Paraclete,  the  Comforter  (St.  John 
xiv.  16),  the  last  and  greatest  of  the  prophets ;  but  he  does  not  pro- 
fess to  be  entirely  free  from  minor  sins.  He  confirms  previous  reve- 
lations, but  his  appearance  has  superseded  them.  His  whole  doctrine 
is  a  miracle,  and  it,  therefore,  does  not  require  to  be  confirmed  by 
special  miracles.  After  his  death,  however,  a  number  of  miracles 
were  attributed  to  him,  and  although  he  was  not  exactly  deified,  the 
position  assigned  to  him  is  that  of  the  principal  mediator  between 
God  and  man.  The  apotheosis  of  human  beings  is,  moreover,  an  idea 
foreign  to  the  Semitic  mind,  and  it  was  the  Persians  who  first  ele- 
vated fAli  and  the  imams  (literally  reciters  of  prayers)  who  suc- 
ceeded him  to  the  rank  of  supernatural  beings. 

The  Kokan  itself  was  early  regarded  as  a  revelation  of  entirely 
supernatural  origin.  The  name  signifies  'rehearsal',  or  'reading', 
and  the  book  is  divided  into  parts  called  Siirehs.  The  first  revelation 
vouchsafed  to  the  prophet  took  place  in  the  'blessed  night'  in  the 
year  609.  With  many  interruptions  the  'sending  down'  of  the 
Koran  extended  over  twenty-three  years,  until  the  whole  book, 
which  had  already  existed  on  the  'well-preserved  table'  in  heaven, 
was  in  the  prophet's  possession.  During  the  time  of  the  'Abbaside 
khaltfs  it  was  a  matter  of  the  keenest  controversy  whether  the  Koran 
was  created  or  uncreated.  The  earlier  or  Meccan  Surehs,  placed  at 
the  end  of  the  book  on  account  of  their  brevity,  are  characterized 
by  great  freshness  and  vigour  of  style.  They  are  in  rhyme,  but  only 
partially  poetic  in  form.  In  the  longer  Surehs  of  a  later  period  the 
style  is  more  studied  and  the  narrative  often  tedious.  The  Koran  is 
nevertheless  regarded  as  the  greatest  masterpiece  of  Arabic  litera- 
ture. The  prayers  of  the  Muslims  consist  almost  exclusively  of  pass- 
ages from  this  work,  although  they  are  entirely  ignorant  of  its  real 
meaning.  Even  by  the  early  commentators  much  of  the  Koran  was 
imperfectly  understood,  for  Mohammed,  although  extremely  proud 
of  his  'Arabic  Book',  was  very  partial  to  the  use  of  all  kinds  of 
foreign  words.  The  translation  of  the  Koran  being  prohibited,  Per- 
sian, Turkish,  and  Indian  children  learn  it  entirely  by  rote. 

The  best  English  translations  of  the.  Koran  are  those  of  E.  Sale  (ITo'l ; 
with  a  preliminary  discourse  and  copious  notes,  ed.  by  ltev.  E.  M.  Wherry, 
1882-86,  4  vols.,  and  also  obtainable  in  a  cheap  form);  liodtceil  (London 
1861 5  2nd  ed.,  1878);  and  Palmer  (London,  1880).  See  also  Sir  William  Mitir, 
'The  Coran,  its  Composition  and  Teaching'  (iH'tS) ;  T.  W.  Arnold,  'The  Preaching 
of  Islam'  (London,  1896). 

(3).  Future  State  and  Predestination.  That  the  main 
features  of  Mohammed's  teaching  on  these  points  have  been  borrow- 
ed from  the  Christians  is  shown  by  the  part  to  be  played  by  Christ 
at  the  Last  Day.  On  that  day  Christ  will  establish  El-Tslam  as  the 
religion  of  the  world.  "With  him  will  reappear  the  Mahdi,  the 
twelfth  Imam  (p.  lxxii),  and  the  beast  of  the  earth  (p.  lxvi). 
The  end  of  all  things  will  begin  with  the  trumpet-blasts  of  the  angel 


DOCTRINES  OF  EL-ISlAm. 


lxix 


Asrafil ;  the  first  of  these  Masts  will  kill  every  living  heing ;  a  second 
will  awaken  the  dead.  Then  follows  the  Judgment;  the  righteous 
cross  to  Paradise  hy  a  bridge  of  a  hair's  breadth,  while  the  wicked 
fall  from  the  bridge  into  the  abyss  of  hell  (p.  62).  Some  believe 
in  a  kind  of  limbo,  like  that  of  the  Hebrews  and  Greeks,  while 
others  maintain  that  the  souls  of  the  dead  proceed  directly  to  the 
gates  of  Paradise.  At  the  Judgment  every  man  is  judged  by  the 
books  of  the  recording  angels  (p.  lxvi).  The  book  is  placed  in  the 
right  hand  of  the  good,  but  is  bound  in  the  left  hand  of  the  wicked 
behind  their  backs.  The  scales  in  which  good  and  evil  deeds  are 
weighed  play  an  important  part  in  deciding  the  soul's  fate,  and  the 
doctrine  of  the  efficacy  of  works  is  carried  so  far  that  it  is  believed 
works  of  supererogation  may  be  placed  to  the  credit  of  other  believers. 
The  demons  and  animals,  too,  must  be  judged.  Hell,  as  well  as 
heaven,  has  different  regions;  and  El-Islam  also  assumes  the 
existence  of  a  purgatory,  from  which  release  is  possible.  Paradise 
is  depicted  by  Mohammed,  in  consonance  with  his  thoroughly  sen- 
sual character,  as  a  place  of  entirely  material  delights. 

The  course  of  all  events,  including  the  salvation  or  perdition 
of  every  individual,  is ,  according  to  the  strict  interpretation  of  the 
Koran,  absolutely  predestined;  although  several  later  sects  have 
endeavoured  to  modify  this  terrible  doctrine.  It  is  these  views, 
however,  which  give  rise  to  the  pride  of  the  Muslims.  By  virtue  of 
their  faith  they  regard  themselves  as  certainly  elect. 


In  the  second  place  the  Koran  is  considered  to  contain,  not  only 
a  standard  of  ethics,  but  also  a  code  of  civil  law. 

The  Morality  of  El-Islam  is  specially  adapted  to  the  character  of 
the  Arabs.  Of  duties  to  one's  neighbour  charity  and  hospitality  are 
the  most  highly  praised.  Frugality  is  another  virtue  of  the  Arabs, 
though  too  apt  to  degenerate  into  avarice  and  cupidity.  The  law  of 
debtor  and  creditor  is  lenient.  Lending  money  at  interest  is  for- 
bidden by  the  Koran,  but  is  nevertheless  largely  practised,  the 
usual  rate  in  Syria  being  12  per  cent.  The  prohibition  against 
eating  unclean  animals,  such  as  swine,  is  based  on  ancient  custo- 
mary law.  Whether  Mohammed  prohibited  the  use  of  intoxicating 
drinks  merely  because,  as  we  learn  from  pre-islamic  poets,  drunken 
carouses  were  by  no  means  infrequent,  cannot  now  be  ascertained. 
Wine,  however,  and  even  brandy,  are  largely  consumed  by  the 
upper  classes,  especially  the  Turks. 

Although  Polygamy  is  sanctioned,  every  Muslim  being  permit- 
ted to  have  four  wives  at  a  time,  yet  among  the  bulk  of  the  popu- 
lation monogamy  is  far  more  frequent,  owing  to  the  difficulty  of 
providing  for  several  wives  and  the  danger  of  the  utter  destruction 
of  domestic  peace,  unless  the  husband  can  afford  to  assign  them 
separate  houses.  Polygamy  stands  in  close  relation  to  the  ancient 
Oriental  view  that  women  are  creatures  of  an  inferior  order;  hence 


lxx 


DOCTRINES  OF  EL-ISLAM. 


the  Muslims  even  dislike  to  see  women  praying  or  occupying  them- 
selves with  religion.  The  practice  of  wearing  veils  dates  from  the 
remotest  antiquity  (Gen.  xxiv.  65;  Isaiah  in.  23):  A  man  may  not 
see  any  woman  unveiled  except  his  own  wife,  female  relatives,  and 
female  slaves.  An  Oriental  lady  would,  indeed,  regard  it  as  an  affront 
to  he  called  on  to  mingle  in  society  with  the  same  freedom  as  Euro- 
pean ladies.  Even  in  the  Christian  churches  the  place  for  women 
is  often  separated  from  the  men's  seats  hy  a  railing.  The  peasant 
and  Beduin  women,  on  the  other  hand,  are  often  seen  unveiled. 
The  ease  witli  which  El-Islam  permits  divorce  is  due  to  Mohammed's 
personal  proclivities.  A  single  word  from  the  hushand  suffices  to 
Danish  the  wife  from  his  house,  hut  she  retains  the  dowry  (p.lxiii) 
which  she  has  received  from  her  hushand.  The  children  ar>'  brought 
up  in  great  subjection  to  their  parents. 

The  repetition  of  Pbayers  (Sala)  live  times  daily  forms  one  of 
the  chief  occupations  of  faithful  Muslims  :  ( 1 )  Maghreb,  a  little  after 
sunset;  (2)'Ashu,  nightfall;  (3)  Subh,  daybreak;  (i)  Duhr,  mid- 
day; (5)  'Asr,  afternoon.  These  periods  of  prayer  also  serve  to  mark 
the  divisions  of  the  day;  they  are  proclaimed  by  the  MiCeddins  (or 
muezzins)  from  the  minarets  of  the  mosques:  Alldhu  akbar  (three 
times);  ashhaduanna  la  ildha  ill-Alldh,  anna  Muhammedur-ragulu- 
lldh  (twice);  hayyd  'alas-sald  (twice) ;  i.e.  'Allah  is  great;  I  testify 
that  there  is  no  God  hut  Allah,  and  Mohammed  is  the  prophet  of 
Allah  ;  come  to  prayer'.  This  call  to  prayer  sometimes  also  rever- 
berates thrilliugly  through  the  stillness  of  night.  - —  The  duty  of 
washing  before  prayer  is  a  sanitary  institution,  and  tanks  are  pro- 
vided for  the  purpose  in  the  court  of  every  mosque  (p.  lxxiii).  In 
the  desert  the  faithful  are  permitted  to  use  sand  for  this  religious 
ablution. 

The  person  praying  must  remove  his  shoes  or  sandals  and  turn 
his  face  towards  Mecca,  as  the  Jews  and  some  of  the  Christian  sects 
turn  towards  Jerusalem  or  towards  the  East.  The  worshipper 
begins  by  holding  his  hands  to  the  lobes  of  his  ears,  then  a  little 
below  his  girdle,  and  he  interrupts  his  recitations  from  the  Koran 
by  certain  prostrations  in  a  given  order.  The  Muslims  frequently 
recite  as  a  prayer  the  first  Sureh  of  the  Koran,  one  of  the  shortest. 
which  is  used  as  we  employ  the  Lord's  prayer.  It  is  called  el-f&tiha 
('the  commencing'),  and  is  to  the  following  effect:  —  'In  the  aame 
of  God,  the  merciful  and  gracious.  Praise  be  to  God,  the  Lord  of 
creatures,  the  merciful  and  gracious,  the  Prince  of  the  day  of  judg- 
ment; Thee  we  serve,  and  to  Thee  we  pray  for  help;  lead  us  in  the 
right  way,  the  way  of  those  to  whom  Thou  hast  shown  mercy,  upon 
whom  no  wrath  resteth,   and  who  go  not  astray.    Amen'. 

Another  important  duty  of  the  believer  is  to  observe  the  Fast 
of  the  month  Ramadan  (p.  lxxiv).  From  daybreak  to  sunset  eating 
and  drinking  are  absolutely  prohibited,  and  the  devout  even  scru- 
pulously avoid  swallowing  their  saliva.    The  fast  is  for  the  most  part 


DOCTRINES  OF  EL-ISLAM. 


lxxi 


rigorously  observed,  but  prolonged  nocturnal  repasts  afford  some 
compensation.  "When  the  fast  of  Ramadan  falls  in  summer  much 
suffering  is  caused  by  thirst.  The  'Lesser  Beiram'  follows  Ramadan. 

The  Pilgrimage  to  Mecca,  which  every  Muslim  is  bound  to 
undertake  once  in  his  life,  is  also  deserving  of  mention.  In  Syria 
the  chief  body  of  pilgrims  starts  from  Damascus  in  the  month  Dhu'l- 
ka'deh  and  follows  the  pilgrimage-route  (p.  157)  to  Mecca  by  Medina. 
In  the  neighbourhood  of  Mecca  the  pilgrims  undress,  laying  aside 
even  their  headgear,  and  put  on  aprons  and  a  piece  of  cloth  over 
the  left  shoulder.  They  then  perform  the  circuit  of  the  Ka'ba,  kiss 
the  black  stone,  hear  the  sermon  on  Mt.  'Arafat  near  Mecca,  pelt 
Satan  with  stones  in  the  valley  of  Mina,  and  conclude  their  pil- 
grimage with  a  great  sacrificial  feast  on  the  tenth  day  of  the  month 
Dhu'l-hidjeh  ('pilgrimage  month';  p.lxxiv).  On  the  day  when  this 
takes  place  at  Mecca,  sheep  are  slaughtered  and  a  festival  called  the 
Great  Beiram  is  observed  throughout  all  the  Mohammedan  countries. 

The  Worship  of  Saints  was  inculcated  at  an  early  period.  The 
tomb  of  Mohammed  at  Medina  and  that  of  his  grandson  Hosein  at 
Kerbela  became  particularly  famous  (p.  409).    Comp.  p.  lxxiv. 

Most  of  the  Islamic  Literature  and  Science  is  connected  with 
the  Koran  ( p.  lxviii).  Works  were  written  at  an  early  period  dwelling 
upon  every  possible  shade  of  interpretation  of  the  obscure  passages 
in  the  Koran,  and  collections  were  made  of  the  verbal  utterances  of 
Mohammed.  Grammar,  too,  was  at  first  studied  solely  in  con- 
nection with  the  Koran.  The  historical  writings  of  the  Arabs  show 
no  sense  of  the  evolution  of  cause  and  result,  but  consist  simply  of 
a  collection  of  isolated  traditions.  The  prodigious  mass  of  litera- 
ture which  was  soon  produced  consisted  mainly  of  theological  and 
legal  works,  both  founded  exclusively  upon  the  sacred  volume. 
To  this  day  many  books  are  written  in  the  same  pompous  and  un- 
scientific spirit,  but  there  are  also  traces  of  a  more  enlightened  in- 
tellectual life.  Of  late  years  some  attempts  have  been  made  to 
supersede  the  ancient  law  and  to  introduce  a  modern  European 
system.  Printing  was  hardly  known  in  the  Orient  before  the  19th 
cent.,  but  is  now  contributing  largely  to  the  spread  of  culture.  The 
most  important  printing-offices  are  at  Beirut  and  Bulak  (near  Cairo). 


With  regard  to  theological,  legal,  and  still  more  to  ritualistic 
questions,  El-Islam  abounds  in  dissension.  Even  the  orthodox  be- 
lievers 'or  Sunnites  (from  Sunna,  tradition)  are  divided  into  four 
schools  or  sects:  the  Hanefites,  the  Shdfe'ites,  the  Mdlekites,  and  the 
Jlambalites,  who  are  named  after  their  respective  founders.  In  ad- 
dition to  these  may  be  mentioned  the  schools  of  Free  Thinkers  who 
sprang  up  at  an  early  period,  partly  owing  to  the  influence  of  Greek 
philosophy,  but  did  not  attain  any  great  importance. 

Mysticism  and  Asceticism  were  also  largely  developed  among  pro- 
fessors of  El-lslam,  their  ends  being  knowledge  of  god  through  in- 


lxxii 


v/-Ct«t<l  • 


TRINES  OF  EL-ISLAM. 


tuition  and  his  propitiation  through  self-mortification.  The  Koran 
teaches  the  vanity  of  all  earthly  things  and  dwells  on  the  more  ter- 
rible aspects  of  the  Deity.  The  mystic  love  of  God  was  the  great 
J- shibboleth  of  believers.  The  mystics  (Sufi)  interpret  many  texts  of 
the  Koran  allegorically,  and  this  system  therefore  frequently  degen- 
erated into*Pan theism.  It  was  by  mystics  who  still  remained  within 
the  pale  of  El-Islam  (such  as  the  famous  Ibn  el-rArabi,  born  in 
1164)  that  the  Orders  of  Dervishes  (Darwteh,  plural  Darciwlsh)  were 
founded.  In  the  beginning  great  thinkers  and  poets  (the  Persians 
Sardi  and  Hafiz  for  example)  joined  the  movement,  but  nowadays 
the  dervishes  have  degenerated,  the  soul  has  departed  and  nothing 
remains  but  the  external  mechanism,  so  far  as  it  relates  to  the. 
methods  of  throwing  oneself  into  ecstasy  and  rendering  the  body 
insusceptible  to  external  impressions.  The  dervishes,  however,  as 
well  as  insane  persons,  are  still  highly  respected  by  the  people,  by 
whom  they  are  reputed  to  be  able  to  work  miracles. 

About  the  end  of  the  18th  century  a  reaction  against  the  abuses 
of  El-lslam  sprang  up  in  Central  Arabia.  The  Wahabis.  named 
after  their  founder  'Abd  el-Wahhab,  endeavoured  to  restore  the  reli- 
gion to  its  original  purity;  they  destroyed  all  tombs  of  saints,  in- 
cluding eveii  those  of  Mohammed  and  Hosein,  as  objects  of  super- 
stitious reverence;  they  sought  to  restore  the  primitive  simplicity 
of  the  prophet's  code  of  morals;  and  they  even  forbade  the  smoking 
of  tobacco.  The  whole  of  this  movement  may  be  regarded,  in  its 
political  aspect,  as  a  protest  against  the  Turkish  regime,  the  Turks 
being  far  more  to  blame  than  the  Arabs  for  the  deplorable  degen- 
eracy of  the  East.  Had  not  Mohammed  fAli  (p.  lxxxv)  deemed  it 
his  interest  to  suppress  them,  their  influence  would  have  been  far 
more  widely  extended  than  it  now  is. 

Among  the  Muslim  Sects  or  Dissentkhs  the  most  powerful  are 
the  ShVites  (from  slu'a,  'sect').  They  assigned  to  rAli,  the  son-in- 
law  of  Mohammed,  a  rank  equal  or  even  superior  to  that  of  the  pro- 
phet himself;  they  regarded  him  as  an  incarnation  of  the  Deity,  and 
believed  in  the  divine  mission  of  the  Imams  descended  from  rAli. 
El-Mahdi,  the  last  of  these,  is  believed  by  them  not  to  have  died, 
but  to  be  awaiting  in  concealment  the  coining  of  the  last  day.  The 
Shi'ites  are  extremely  fanatical,  refusing  even  to  eat  in  the  society 
of  persons  of  a  different  creed.  The  Persians  are  all  Shi'ites.  In 
Syria  the  Metdwileh  are  the  chief  representatives  of  Shiltism.  They 
possess  villages  in  N.  Palestine  and  in  Lebanon  as  far  as  the  neigh- 
bourhood of  Hoins,  and  even  farther  to  the  N.,  and  have  a  very  bad 
reputation  as  thieves  and  assassins.  In  isolated  communities  among 
the  Nosairiyeh  Mts.  is  found  the  similar  sect  of  the  Isma'Uians,  who 
derive  their  name  from  Isma'il,  the  sixth  of  the  imams  (latter  half 
of  the  8th  cent.),  and  are  identical  with  the  notorious  Assassins 
(literally  'hemp-smokers',  p.lxxxii)  of  the  middle  ages.  Their  reli- 
gion consisted  of  an  extraordinary  mixture  of  ancient  heathen  super- 


\'yJso  A    S^tr^ 


DOCTRINES  OF  EL-ISLAM. 


/    lxxiii 


stition,  misapprehended  Greek  philosophy,  early  Persian  dualism, 
the  theory  of  the  transmigration  of  souls,  and  even  materialism. 
Nothing  now  remains  of  it  except  mere  mystic  mummery,  ■without 
any  solid  foundation  of  principle.  —  The  Nosairiyeh,  who  made  their 
appearance  as  early  as  the  10th  cent,  of  our  era,  and  were  originally 
settled  on  the  banks  of  the  Euphrates,  appear  also  to  have  retained 
many  of  the  heathen  superstitions  of  ancient  Syria;  but  they  also 
celebrate  a  species  of  Eucharist  and  possess  certain  religious  books. 
When  praying  they  turn  towards  the  rising  and  the  setting  sun  at 
morning  and  evening.  They  inhabit  the  so-called  Nosairiyeh  M'ts. 
in  N.  Syria,  where  they  live  by  agriculture  and  cattle-breeding.  — 
From  the  same  chaos  of  superstition  emanated  the  Teligion  of  the 
Druses.  The  khalif  Hakim  Biamrillah  (996-1020;  p.  lxxxii)  having 
declared  himself  in  Egypt  to  be  an  incarnation  of 'Ali  (p.  lxxii),  his 
doctrine,  together  with  that  of  the  transmigration  of  souls,  was  widely 
promulgated  in  Southern  Lebanon  (YVadi  et-Teim).  Another  sectary, 
called  Hamza,  reduced  the  new  religion  to  a  system.  Thus  the 
Druses,  though  for  centuries  they  have  held  themselves  aloof  from 
the  other  inhabitants  of  Syria,  are  not  a  foreign  race,  but  of  mixed 
Syrian  and  Arabian  origin,  the  ancient  Syrian  element  decidedly 
predominating.  They  describe  themselves  as  Muivahhidin,  i.e.  uni- 
tarians. They  believe  that  God  lias  occasionally  manifested  himself 
in  human  form,  his  last  incarnation  having  taken  place  in  the  person 
of  Hakim.  This  Hakim  will  one  day  return,  found  a  vast  empire, 
and  convert  the  whole  world  to  the  Druse  religion.  The  Druses 
possess  numerous  religious  writings.  The  initiated  abjure  tobacco- 
smoking.  TheTDruses  are  generally  a  hospitable  and  amiable  race;" 
tln\  are  noted  and  feared  for  their  bravery,  and  were  it  not  for  their 
internal  dissensions  they  would  often  have  proved  most  formidable 
enemies  to  the  Turkish  government.  Their  princely  families  have 
from  an  early  age  been  too  ambitious  to  submit  to  the  authority 
of  any  one  of  their  own  number.  For  the  modern  history  of  the 
Druses,  see  p.  288. 


The  Mosques,  or  Muslim  places  of  worship,  may  be  divided 
into  two  leading  classes :  (1)  those  of  rectangular  form,  the  court 
being  surrounded  by  Arcades  of  columns  or  pillars;  (2)  those  whose 
court,  rectangular  or  cruciform,  is  surrounded  by  Closed  Spaces.  — 
The  name  Jdrni'  is  applied  to  the  large,  or  cathedral  mosques,  in 
which  sermons  (Khutba)  are  preached  on  Fridays  and  prayers  are 
offered  up  for  the  sovereign  of  the  country.  The  general  term  for  a 
place  of  worship  is  Mesjid,  even  when  it  consists  of  a  single  cham- 
ber (Mumlld)  only. 

Every  jamir  possesses  a  court  of  considerable  size,  generally  un- 
covered, called  the  Fasha  or  Sahn  el-Jdmi',  in  the  centre  of  which 
is  the  fountain  for  the  ablutions  (Hanafiyeh)  prescribed  by  the  Mo- 
hammedan   religion.     Adjoining  the  E.    side  of  the  court  is  the 


lxxiv 


DOCTRINES  OF  EL-ISLAM. 


Makstira,  containing  the  sacred  vessels ,  and  covered  with  carpets 
or  mats  (Hastreh).  The  maksfira  contains  :  (1)  The  Mihrab,  or  recess 
for  prayer,  turned  towards  Mecca  (Kibla);  (2)  The  Mimbar,  or  pul- 
pit, to  the  right  of  the  mihrab,  from  which  the  Khatlb  preaches  to 
the  faithful ;  (3)  The  Kursl  (plur.  Kerdsi),  or  desk,  on  which  the 
Koran  lies  open  during  divine  service  (at  other  times  the  Koran  is 
kept  in  a  cabinet  set  apart  for  the  purpose);  (4)  The  Dikkeh,  a 
podium  placed  on  columns  and  enclosed  by  a  low  railing,  from 
which  the  Moballiyh  (assistants  of  the  khatib)  repeat  the  words  of 
the  Koran  for  the  benefit  of  the  people  at  a  distance;  (5)  Various 
lamps  and  lanterns  (Kanddii  and  Fdnus). 

Adjacent  to  the  maksura  usually  rises  the  monument  of  the 
founder  of  the  mosque,  and  by  the  principal  entrance  is  the  SebU 
(fountain)  with  the  Medreseh  (school).  These  fountains  are  often 
richly  adorned  with  marble  and  surrounded  by  handsome  bronze  rail- 
ings. At  the  side  of  the  sahn  el-jamir  is  another  and  smaller  court, 
with  a  basin  in  the  centre  and  niches  along  the  walls.  The  worshipper 
generally  enters  this  court  before  proceeding  to  the  sahn  el-jamir. 

Everywhere  are  found  the  Chapkls  op  Saints  (p.  lxxi),  called 
Kubbeli  (dome),  Makdm  (standing-place),  Mezdr  (place  of  pilgrimage), 
or  Weli  (tomb  of  a  saint),  and  usually  not  more  than  13-10  ft.  square. 
They  are  often  quite  empty.  The  believer  performs  his  devotions 
at  the  grated  window.  The  curious  custom  of  suspending  on  these 
chapels,  as  well  as  on  sacred  trees,  shreds  torn  from  one's  clothing 
as  a  token  of  veneration  or  seal  of  a  vow,  is  of  very  ancient  origin. 
In  Syria  almost  every  village  has  its  weli,  venerated  alike  by  Mus- 
lims, Christians,  and  Jews.  Objects  deposited  in  it  are  safe  from 
theft. 

The  Muslim  Calendar  begins  with  July  16th  in  the  year 
022  A.D.,  this  being  the  date  of  the  Hegira,  or  Flight  of  Mohammed 
from  Mecca  to  Medina  ( p.  lxv).  The  Muslim  year  is  a  purely  lunar 
year  of  12  months  :  Moharrem,  Safar,  RabV  el-Auwal,  Rabi'  et-Tdnh, 
Jemdd  el-Auwal,  Jemdd  et-Tdni,  Rejeb,  Sha'bdn,  Ramadan,  Shau- 
wdl,  Dhu'L-ka'deh,  IViu'l-hidjeh.  Each  of  the  odd-numbered  months 
contains  29  days,  each  of  the  even-numbered  months  30  days.  There 
are  thus  354  days  in  the  year,  or  355  in  leap  year,  11  of  which  occur 
in  each  cycle  of  30  years.  In  the  course  of  33  years,  each  month  makes 
a  complete  circuit  of  the  seasons.  On  Feb.  25th,  1906,  began  the 
year  1324  of  the  Heg?ra.(PV^*^^^CAw^--/^J<<tK<.  1*1 
■  ':  ."0  J  In  order  approximately  to  convert  a  'year  °f  our  era  "uto  one  oftbe 
Muslim  era,  subtract  U22,  divide  tlie  remainder  by  33,  and  add  the  quotient 
to  the  dividend.  Conversely,  a"  year  of  the  Mohammedan  era  is  e  inTerted 
into  one  of  the  Christian  era  by  dividing  it  by  33,  subtracting  the  quotient 
from  it,  and  adding  6'-'2  to  the  remainder. 


Txxv 


VI.  History  of  Palestine  and  Syria. 

The  name  Syria  is  derived  from  the  early  Babylonian  Suri,  and 
about  3000  B.C.  denoted  the  territory  between  the  Median  Mts.  oh 
the  E.,  the  Halys  and  Taurus  on  the  W.,  Babylonia  on  the  S.E., 
and  Armenia  on  the  N.  It  lias  nothing  to  do  with  'Assyria',  although 
the  Assyrian  empire  was  for  a  time  practically  co-extensive  with 
Suri.  Later  the  name  was  extended  southwards  to  the  present  Syria. 

From  the  very  earliest  period  of  history  the  inhabitants  belonged 
to  the  so-called  (Semites,  a  group  of  peoples  sharply  defined  by  their 
languages,  which  are  allied  and  very  similar  in  character  to  Hebrew. 
By  dint  of  repeated  immigrations  from  Arabia  the  Semites  gradually 
spread  themselves  over  all  Syria.  The  so-called  'Canaanitish'  immi- 
gration is  the  oldest  that  we  know  of  witli  any  certainty,  its  earliest 
wave  including  the  Phoenicians,  who  penetrated  farthest  to  the  W. 
Following  the  example  of  the  Old  Testament,  we  are  accustomed  to 
call  the  tribes  who  settled  in  the  interior  to  the  VV.  of  Jordan  by 
the  collective  name  of  Canaanitcs,  though  they  are  probably  more 
correctly  specified  by  the  older  biblical  writers  as  Amorites.  At  a 
later  date  seven  tribes  are  detailed:  Hittites,  Canaanites,  Amorites, 
Girgazites,  Perizzites,  Jebusites,  and  Hivites.  The  last  group  of 
these  'Canaanitish'  immigrants  consists  of  the  tribes  mentioned  as 
Khabiri  (i.e.  Hebrews)  on  the  tablets  found  at  Tell  el-rAmarna  (see 
below),  which  included  the  Israelites  who  had  penetrated  into  the 
country  W.  of  the  Jordan,  the  Moabites,  to  the  S.E.  of  the  Dead  Sea, 
the  Ammonites,  whose  territory  lay  to  the  E.  of  the  Jordan  ('Gilead'), 
and  the  Edomites,  who  occupied  the  region  of  the  'Araba  (p.  175 ) 
as  far  as  the  bay  of  'Akaba  (Elath  ),  and  the  mountains  of  Seir. 
The  Canaanitish  immigration  was  followed  by  the  'Aramaic'.  Under 
the  kings  of  Israel  the  Aramaeans  were  already  settled  in  Lebanon 
and  in  the  N.  part  of  the  country  E.  of  Jordan,  whence  they  pene- 
trated ever  farther  to  the  S.  —  Among  the  non-Semitic  races  in 
Palestine  were  the  Hittites,  called  Kheta  by  the  Egyptians,  who 
came  from  the  kingdom  of  Khatti  in  Asia  Minor,  and  had  already 
reached  the  N.  boundary  of  Palest'ne  (comp.  p.  xlviii)  at  the  time 
the  letters  of  Tell  el-Amarna  (see  below)  were  written.  The  Philis- 
tines (comp.  p.  119)  were  another  non-Semitic  tribe. 

For  a  long  period  Palestine  and  a  large  part  of  Syria  were  de- 
pendent upon  Egypt.  The  country  was  governed  by  tributary  prin- 
ces, on  whose  relation  to  the  Pharaohs  a  surprising  light  was  cast 
by  a  large  number  of  clay  tablets  with  letters,  written  by  these 
princes  about  the  end  of  the  15th  cent.  B.C.,  which  were  found 
among  the  ruins  at  Tell  el-rAmarna  in  Egypt  in  1887.  These 
letters  are  written  in  the  Babylonian  language  and  in  cuneiform 
characters,  which  shows  how  entirely,  in  spite  of  the  political 
suzerainty  of  Egypt,   Falestine  (and  indeed  the  whole  of  the  Near 


lxxviii 


HISTORY. 


Meanwhile  the  worship  of  Yahweh  was  essentially  advanced  by 
the  writings  of  Amos,  Hosea,  Micah,  Isaiah,  Jeremiah,  and  other 
prophets.  The  advance  consisted  mainly  in  loftier  ideas  of  the  moral 
and  spiritual  nature  of  the  Deity,  leading  to  the  conception  of 
Yahweh  as  the  God,  not  merely  of  Israel,  but  of  the  whole  world. 
This  was  a  basis  on  which  the  religion  of  Israel  could  be  preserved 
and  developed  amid  the  coming  troubles.  One  of  the  most  im- 
portant events  in  the  history  of  the  religion  of  Israel  is  the  central- 
ization of  the  worship  of  Yahweh  in  Jerusalem  in  the  days  of  Josiau 
(623  B.C.),  a  movement  consequent  on  the  introduction  of  the  new 
book  of  the  law,  Deuteronomy. 

At  length,  in  597,  the  kingdom  of  Judah  was  virtually  destroyed, 
and  Nebuchadnezzar  carried  off  King  Jehoiakim  with  10,000  of  the 
principal  inhabitants,  including  the  prophet  Ezekiel,  to  Babylon. 
A  revolt  by  the  last  king  Zedekiah  resulted  in  the  destruction  of 
Jerusalem  in  58G  and  a  second  deportation  of  its  inhabitants.  Soon 
after  this  many  Jews,  and  Jeremiah  among  them,  migrated  to  Egypt. 

During  the  captivity,  besides  Ezekiel  and  Jeremiah ,  there 
flourished  also  the  sublime  anonymous  prophet  who  wrote  chap- 
ters 40-66  of  the  Book  of  Isaiah.  In  the  year  538  Cyrus,  after  hav- 
ing conquered  Babylon,  permitted  the  Jews  to  return  to  their  native 
country.  Only  some  of  these,  however,  availed  themselves  of  this 
permission,  and  the  new  Jewish  State  was  wholly  comprized  within 
the  ancient  limits  of  Judah.  The  erection  of  the  new  Temple,  which 
had  long  been  obstructed  by  the  neighbouring  nations,  was  at  length 
promoted  by  the  prophets  Haggai  and  Zechariah  (516).  Ezra  and 
Nehemiah  established  a  set  form  of  ritual,  following  Ezekiel  and  tins 
priestly  legislation  in  Leviticus  and  Numbers.  The  Idumaeans  or 
Edomites  established  themselves  in  S.  Judaea  and  Hebron.  The 
Nabataeans,  an  Arabian  tribe,  •which  had  settled  at  Petra  as  early  as 
B.C.  300,  supplanted  the  Edomites  in  the  S.E.  of  Palestine.  They 
conquered  the  territory  of  Moab  and  Amnion,  and  even  penetrated 
farther  north.  The  central  districts  were  colonized  by  Cuthaeans, 
from  whom,  and  also  from  the  remains  of  the  earlier  population, 
descended  the  Samaritans,  who  erected  a  sanctuary  of  their  own  on 
Mt.  Gerizim. 

The  Macedonian  Supremacy  began  in  332,  but  after  Alexan- 
der's death  Palestine  became  the  scene  of  the  wars  between  the 
'Diadoobi',  as  his  successors  were  called.  Greek  culture  soon  made 
rapid  progress  in  Syria,  as  is  evidenced  by  the  ruins  of  Graeco- 
Roman  theatres,  the  relics  of  temples,  the  inscriptions,  and  coins. 
The  Jews  adhered  most  steadfastly  of  all  to  their  traditions.  But, 
in  the  3rd  cent.  B.C.  the  Aramaic  language  gradually  began  to  sup- 
plant the  Hebrew.  Greek  also  came  into  frequent  use  among  the  cul- 
tivated classes,  and  in  Egypt  the  sacred  books  were  translated  into 
Greek.    Among  the  Jews  was  even  formed  a  party  favourable  to  the 


HISTORY. 


lxxix 


Greeks,  who,  aided  by  Jason,  the  high-priest,  succeeded  in  securing 
the  supreme  power  in  the  state.  In  consequence  of  this,  a*  fierce 
struggle  took  place,  for  which  King  Antiochus  Epiphanes  chastised 
the  Jews  severely.  This,  and  still  more  the  desecration  of  their 
temple,  drove  the  Jews  into  open  revolt.  At  the  head  of  tin'  in- 
surgents was  the  heroic  priest  Mattathias,  whose  son  Judas  Macca- 
baeus  at  length  succeeded  in  inflicting  a  decisive  defeat  upon  the 
Syrians  (B.C.  165).  Under  the  Asmonean  princes,  or  Maocabbeb, 
the  Jews  enjoyed  a  comparatively  prosperous  period  of  national  in- 
dependence, and  John  Hyrcanus  I.  even  succeeded  in  considerably 
extending  the  dominions  of  Jud;ea  by  his  conquests.  During  this 
epoch  the  form  of  government  was  a  theocracy,  presided  over  by  a 
high-priest,  who,  at  the  same  time,  enjoyed  political  power,  but  from 
the  reign  of  Aristobulus  I.  the  Asmoneans  assumed  the  title  of  king. 

The  independence  of  the  country  was  at  length  disturbed  by  the 
interference  of  the  Romans  in  63,  when  Jerusalem  was  captured  by 
Pompey.  The  Asmonean  Hyrcanus  II.  reigned  after  this  date  under 
Roman  suzerainty.  In  the  year  B.  G.  40  the  Parthians  plundered 
Syria  and  Palestine,  and  in  the  troubles  of  that  period  Herod  suc- 
ceeded in  obtaining  from  the  Romans  the  sole  governorship  of 
Judtca.  It  was  not,  however,  till  the  year  37,  after  he  had  con- 
quered Jerusalem,  that  he  actually  entered  upon  his  office.  He  was 
entirely  subservient  to  the  Romans ,  and  caused  many  handsome 
edifices  to  be  erected  in  the  Roman  style.  He  also  caused  the  Temple 
to  be  rebuilt,  and  the  brilliance  of  his  reign  gained  him  the  title 
•of  the  Great.  The  Jews,  however,  felt  keenly  the  intrusion  of  the 
foreign  elements. 

In  the  time  of  Herod  the  Jewish  territories  were  divided  as 
follows:  —  (1)  Judaea,  Including  Idumtea;  (2)  Samaria,  which 
extended  to  the  S.  of  Shechem  as  far  as  the  S.  margin  of  the  plain  ; 
(3)  Galilee,  the  region  farther  to  the  N.,  consisting  of  Lower  (S.)  and 
Upper  (N.)  Galilee;  (4)  Peraea  ('the  country  beyond'),  to  theE.  of 
Jordan,  extending  from  the  Jordan  to  the  district  of  Gerasa  (Jerash) 
and  Philadelphia  ('Amman),  and  from  the  Anion  (Wadi  el-M6jib) 
to  the  district  of  Pella  (Khirbet  Pahil) ;  (5)  the  tetrarchy  of  Philip, 
which  included  Gaulanitis,  the  modern  Jolan,  extending  E.  from 
the  Lake  of  Tiberias,  Batanaea,  farther  to  the  E.,  the  modern  En- 
Nukra,  Trachonitis,  to  the  N.E.  of  the  last,  the  modern  El-Lcjah, 
and  Auranitis,  to  the  S.E.  of  Batanaea,  including  the  mountainous 
district  of  the  Hauran  and  the  plain  to  the  W.  of  it.  —  The  Hellen- 
istic towns  to  the  E.  of  the  Jordan  ( Damascus,  Gerasa,  Philadelphia, 
etc."),  along  with  Scythopolis,  to  the  W.  of  the  Jordan,  formed  a 
more  or  less  permanent  political  unit  under  the  name  of  Decapolii. 

Herod  the  Great  died  in  the  year  of  the  birth  of  Christ,  i.e.  in 
B.C.  4  according  to  the  accepted  chronology,  as  determined  by 
Dionysius  Exiguus  in  527  A.D.  The  dominions  of  Herod  were  now 
divided.    To  Philip  were  given  the  districts  of  the  Hauran  (S.E.), 


lxxx 


HISTORY. 


to  Herod  Antipas  Galilee  and  Peraca,  to  Archelaus  Samaria,  Juda'a, 
and  Idumxa.  In  A.I).  6  the  territory  of  Archelaus  was  added  to  the 
Roman  province  of  Syria,  but  was  governed  by  procurators  of  its 
own.  Thenceforward  the  patriotic  party  among  the  Jews  became 
still  more  antagonistic  to  the  foreign  yoke.  Founding  their  hopes  on 
the  prophecies  winch  spoke  of  an  ideal  independent  kingdom,  they 
expected  the  Messiah  to  bring  to  them  political  deliverance,  whereas 
Christ  himself  declared  that  his  kingdom  was  not  of  this  world. 
Infuriated  by  this  announcement,  they  compelled  Pilate,  the  Roman 
governor,  to  yield  to  their  desires  and  to  crucify  their  Victim. 

The  power  of  the  native  princes,  such  as  Ayrippa  I.,  who  was 
the  last  prince  to  unite  the  whole  of  Herod's  kingdom  under  one 
monarch  .  and  Agrippa  II.,  whose  share  of  Jewish  territory  was, 
strictly  speaking,  confined  to  a  few  towns  in  Galilee,  became  merely 
nominal  as  that  of  the  Roman  governors  increased.  At  length,  in 
consequence  of  the  maladministration  of  Gessius  Florus,  a  national 
insurrection  broke  out  with  great  violence.  Jerusalem  was  captured 
by  Titus  in  A.  D.  70,  and  the  Temple  was  destroyed.  Under  the 
leadership  of  Simon,  surnamed  Bar  Cochba  ('son  of  the  star'),  who 
was  recognized  by  the  celebrated  Rabbi  Ben  Akiba  as  the  Messiah, 
there  was  a  final  revolt  against  the  foreign  yoke.  After  a  struggle 
lasting  for  3'/2  years  (132-135),  the  insurrection  was  quelled  and 
the  last  remnant  of  the  Jewish  kingdom  destroyed.  Jerusalem 
became  a  Roman  colony  under  the  name  of  Aelia  Gipitolina,  and 
the  Jews  were  even  denied  access  to  their  ancient  capital. 

During  these  last  centuries,  however,  and  even  later,  Jewish. 
Literature  continued  to  be  cultivated.  The  learning  of  the  schools, 
which,  in  connection  with  the  written  law,  had  hitherto  been  hand- 
ed down  by  oral  tradition,  only,  was  now  committed  to  writing,  and 
thus  the  Talmud  came  into  existence  between  the  3rd  and  6th  cent- 
uries A.D.  On  the  other  hand,  the  germs  of  a  different  kind  of 
literature  also  sprang  up  among  the  early  Christian  communities. 
In  the  2nd  cent.,  the  Gnostic  systems  arose  in  the  East,  and  gained 
considerable  ground  even  in  Syria. 

Since  the  beginning  of  the  Greek  period  Antioch  (p.  382)  had 
become,  and  continued  to  be,  the  most  important  town  in  Syria.  At 
the  same  time,  Damascus  continued  to  flourish  as  the  chief  seat  of  the 
caravan-trade.  About  the  beginning  of  our  era  Palmyra  came  into 
prominence  as  the  capital  of  an  important  independent  empire,  and 
its  monuments  of  the  later  Roman  period  still  bear  witness  to  its 
ancient  glory.  All  Christian  Syria  was  the  seat  of  an  advanced  culture. 
On  the  partition  of  the  Roman  Empire  in  394  A.D.,  Syria  became 
dependent  on  Byzantium.  In  611,  Chosroes  II.,  King  oi  Persia,  con- 
quered the  country,  but  it  was  reconquered  by  Heraclius  in  628. 

Soon  after  this  a  more  formidable  foe  to  the  Byzantine  Empire 
appeared  in  the  shape  of  the  Arabs,  who  from  time  immemorial 
had  ranged  over  the  vast  Syrian  plain  as  far  as  Mesopotamia,  and 


HISTORY. 


lxxxi 


now  pressed  forward  into  Syria  itself.  The  southern  Arabs  (Yoktan- 
ides  or  Kahtanides)  settled  In  the  Hauran.  Opposed  to  them  were 
the  tribes  of  N.  Arabia  (Ishma elites).  These  tribes  became  especially 
formidable  to  the  tottering  Byzantine  Empire,  after  the  union  of  them 
effected  by  Mohammed  (p.lxv).  At  the  beginning  of  the  reign  of  the 
energetic rO?nar,  the  second  khialif,  Syria  was  thrown  open  to  the  Arabs 
by  the  bloody  battle  of  the  Yarmuk  in  634,  and  at  the  beginning  of 
the  following  year  Damascus  was  captured  (p.  298).  Within  a  short 
period  the  Byzantines  lost  the  whole  of  Syria  as  far  as  Aleppo,  and 
rOinav  himself  was  present  at  the  capitulation  of  Jerusalem,  a  city 
which  the  Muslims  also  regarded  as  holy.  Cresarea  held  out  bravely 
for  some  time  longer;  but  when  the  victorious  Arabs  in  the  basin  of 
the  Euphrates  joined  forces  with  those  in  Mesopotamia  beyond  Nisi- 
bis,  the  last  hope  of  the  Byzantine  power  in  Syria  vanished.  The 
Christians  were  spared  on  condition  of  paying  a  poll-tax,  but  many 
of  their  churches  were  converted  into  mosques,  and  Arabian  military 
colonies  were  planted  in  many  of  the  towns  and  villages. 

The  most  glorious  part  of  this  period  of  Syrian  history  began  with 
the  assassination  of  'Alt,  the  son-in-law  of  the  prophet,  and  fourth 
khalif.  A  political  reaction  on  the  part  of  the  Meccan  aristocracy 
in  Arabia  had  sprung  up  against  the  parvenus  of  plebeian  origin; 
for  it  was  only  after  the  unprecedented  successes  of  the  Muslim 
arms  that  the  countrymen  of  Mohammed  began  to  appreciate  the 
full  scope  of  the  new  religion.  Many  believers,  however,  adhered 
to  fAli  as  the  rightful  vicegerent  of  the  prophet ,  and  even  re- 
pudiated the  title  of  the  first  three  khalifs ;  and  it  was  from  this 
schism  that  the  great  sect  of  the  Sht'ites  (p.  lxxii)  took  its  origin. 
The  Meccan  aristocrats,  however,  conquered  fAli  (p.  412),  and  the 
seat  of  the  khalifate  was  transferred  by  Mu'dwiya  from  Medina  to 
Damascus.  Many  of  Mu'awiya's  successors,  the  Omayyades,  proved 
most  gifted  and  efficient  monarchs.  Even  during  the  reign  of 
Mu'awiya  the  able  generals  of  the  Muslims  penetrated  eastwards  as 
far  as  India  and  Central  Asia,  westwards  as  far  as  Constantinople 
and  the  Atlantic  Ocean.  The  ancient  simplicity  of  manners,  however, 
had  disappeared;  there  was  now  a  vast  empire,  a  despotism,  with  a 
court  of  constantly  increasing  splendour;  and  a  love  of  magnificence 
soon  began  to  show  itself  in  artistically  constructed  buildings. 

A  reaction  was  inevitable,  and  it  was  in  Persia  that  it  first  showed 
itself.  Religious  questions  afforded  a  pretext  for  intrigues  against 
the  Omayyades.  The  powerful  family  of  the  'Albasides,  who  were 
also  of  Meccan  origin,  secured  the  upper  hand  by  the  cruel  assassi- 
nation of  the  Omayyades  (750).  The  central  point  of  the  empire 
was  now  removed  to  the  banks  of  the  Euphrates  and  the  Tigris.  As 
had  already  been  the  case  under  several  of  the  Omayyades,  Syria 
again  became  the  theatre  of  fierce  party-struggles,  while  political 
rivalries  were  aggravated  by  the  dissensions  of  religious  sects,  some  of 
which  manifested  communistic  tendencies  and  plotted  against  the 

Baedeker's  Palestine  and  Syria.    4th  Edit.  f 


Ixxxii 


HISTORY. 


existing  constitution.  The  political  history  of  the  Arah  rulers  of 
these  centuries  presents  a  continuous  scene  of  war  and  hloodshed, 
accompanied  by  an  interminable  series  of  intestine  dissensions,  in- 
trigues, and  murders.  At  the  same  time,  however,  especially  during 
the  reign  of  Hdrun  er-Rashtd,  the  Arabs  began  to  manifest  a  greater 
taste  for  scientific  knowledge.  A  number  of  schools  of  philosophy 
were  founded  in  Syria,  and  particularly  at  Damascus.  The  Arab 
scholars  obtained  their  knowledge  of  the  Greek  philosophers  from 
the  Syrians,  whose  literature  flourished  for  a  prolonged  period,  even 
under  the  Muslim  re'gime.  So,  too,  an  acquaintance  with  medicine, 
astronomy,  and  mathematics  reached  the  Arabs  directly  or  indirectly 
through  the  Greeks;  and,  indeed,  in  no  department  of  science  did 
they  exhibit  much  originality.  Even  in  works  on  the  grammatical 
structure  of  their  own  language,  a  subject  which  they  treated  with 
great  acumen,  the  Arabs  were  surpassed  by  the  Persians. 

The  power  of  the  khalifate  was  gradually  undermined  by  the 
dissensions  already  mentioned,  and  in  Syria  itself  there  sprang  up 
secondary  dynasties.  Thus  the  Hamdanides  from  Mosul,  where  they 
had  been  the  chief  opponents  of  the  Kurds,  took  possession  of  N. 
Syria,  and  had  their  headquarters  at  Aleppo  for  a  considerable 
period.  One  of  these  princes  was  the  illustrious  Seif  ed-Dauleh, 
who  began  to  reign  in  944,  and  who  had  some  difficulty  in  repulsing 
the  renewed  attacks  of  the  Greeks.  At  this  period  the  Fdtimites, 
the  rulers  of  Egypt,  held  the  supreme  power  at  Damascus ,  and 
during  the  great  revolutions  which  took  place  in  the  latter  half  of 
the  10th  cent,  they  conquered  the  whole  of  Syria.  The  reign  of 
Hakim  Biamrilluh  (from  996),  in  particular,  was  fraught  with  im- 
portant results  to  Syria.  From  the  outset  of  their  career  the  Fati- 
mites  had  assumed  a  hostile  attitude  towards  El-Islam,  and  under 
Hakim  the  peculiar  religious  or  philosophical  doctrines  of  his  party 
degenerated  into  grotesque  absurdity  (comp.  p.  lxxiii).  Towards  the 
close  of  the  11th  cent,  the  Okeilides  and  the  Mirdasides  came  into 
power  in  N.  Syria,  but  they,  in  their  turn,  were  supplanted  by  the 
Seljuks  in  1086.  These  were  the  chiefs  of  the  nomadic  Turkish 
tribes,  who  now  for  the  first  time  made  their  appearance  as  con- 
querors in  western  Asia.  In  several  parts  of  Syria  the  Assassins 
(p.  lxxii),  a  sect  who  unscrupulously  practised  the  crime  named  af- 
ter them,  possessed  considerable  power,  and  even  occupied  a  number 
of  fortresses.  It  was  by  their  hand  that  Nizam  el-Mulk,  the  great 
vizier  of  the  all-powerful  Seljuk  Malekshah  (1072-92),  was  murder- 
ed. After  Malekshah's  death  the  empire  of  the  Seljuks  was  divided, 
one  branch  establishing  itself  at  Damascus,  another  at  Aleppo. 

These  interminable  disorders  within  the  Muslim  empire  contrib- 
uted greatly  to  the  success  of  the  Crusaders.  The  most  prominent 
leaders  of  the  First  Crusade  (1096-99)  were  Raymond,  Count  of 
Toulouse,  Robert,  Duke  of  Normandy,  Robert,  Count  of  Flanders, 
the  Norman  dukes  Bohemund  and  Tancred,  Godfrey  of  Bouillon,  and 


HISTORY. 


lxxxiii 


his  brother  Baldwin.  Baldwin  succeeded  in  conquering  N.  Syria  as 
far  as  Mesopotamia,  and  Bohemund  captured  Antioch  in  1098;  hut 
Damascus  successfully  resisted  every  attack.  Even  among  the  Chris- 
tians, however,  political  considerations  were  paramount  over  their 
enthusiasm  for  the  holy  cause.  It  was  not  until  after  the  capture  of 
Jerusalem  (15th  July,  1099)  that  the  Muslims  became  fully  aware 
of  the  danger  which  threatened  them  from  the  Crusaders,  hut  the 
jealousies  among  the  Muslims  themselves  prevented  them  from 
having  much  success  in  opposition  to  the  Christians.  Godfrey  de 
Bouillon,  the  first  king  of  Jerusalem  (d.  1100),  was  succeeded  by  his 
brother  Baldwin  I.  About  the  beginning  of  the  reign  of  the  next 
king,  Baldwin  II.  (1118),  the  European  conquests  in  the  East  had 
reached  their  climax.  The  new  kingdom  was  organized  in  the  style 
of  the  feudal  states  of  Europe.  The  most  important  vassals  of  the 
crown  were  the  Prince  of  Antioch,  the  Counts  of  Edessa  and  Tripolis, 
the  Prince  of  Tiberias,  the  Count  of  Joppa  and  Ascalon,  and  the  Lord 
of  Montroyal  (in  the  ancient  Moab).  About  1118  were  founded  the 
orders  of  the  Knights  of  St.  John  and  the  Templars,  which  were 
destined  to  become  the  great  champions  of  Christianity  in  the  East. 

The  political  feebleness  of  the  Crusaders  prevented  them  from 
making  any  farther  advance.  They  contented  themselves  with  re- 
peated and  futile  attempts  to  capture  Damascus.  In  1136  their  pro- 
gress was  effectually  checked  by  the  opposition  of  the  bold  emir 
Zengi.  In  N.  Syria  John,  the  Byzantine  emperor,  again  attempted 
to  interpose,  his  designs  being  hostile  to  Christians  and  Muslims 
alike,  but  was  obliged  to  retire,  whereupon  Edessa  also  declared 
itself  in  favour  of  Zengi  (1144).  At  the  time  of  his  death  Zengi 
was  master  of  Mosul,  Mesopotamia,  and  a  great  part  of  Syria.  The 
second  conquest  of  Edessa  by  his  son  Nureddtn  in  1146  gave  rise  to 
the  Second  Crusade  (1147-49).  The  Franks,  however,  met  with  no 
success.  Nureddin  wrested  many  of  their  possessions  from  them, 
and  at  last  captured  Damascus  also,  which  had  hitherto  been  occu- 
pied by  another  dynasty.  In  1164  he  sent  an  expedition  against 
Egypt  under  his  general  Shirkuh,  who  was  associated  with  the  Kurd 
Saldh  ed-Din  (Saladin).  The  latter,  a  man  of  singular  energy,  soon 
made  himself  master  of  Egypt;  and  after  Nureddiivs  death  in  1173 
he  took  advantage  of  the  dissensions  in  Syria  to  conquer  that  country 
also,  and  thus  became  the  most  dangerous  enemy  of  the  isolated 
possessions  of  the  Franks.  A  breach  of  truce  at  length  led  to  war. 
In  1187,  at  the  battle  of  Hatttn  (p.  246),  Saladin  signally  defeated 
the  Franks,  after  which  the  whole  of  Palestine  fell  into  his  posses- 
sion ;  but  he  treated  the  Christians  with  leniency. 

The  fall  of  Jerusalem  led  to  the  Third  Crusade  (1189).  Fred- 
erick I.,  Emperor  of  Germany,  who  headed  the  expedition,  was 
drowned  in  Cilicia,  before  reaching  the  Holy  Land.  The  town  of 
Acre,  after  a  long  siege,  chiefly  by  the  French  and  English,  was  at 
length  captured  in  1191;  but  the  conquest  of  Jerusalem  was  pre- 

f* 


lxxxiv 


HISTORY. 


vented  by  dissensions  among  the  Crusaders,  particularly  between 
Richard  Coeur-de-Lion  of  England  and  Philip  Augustus  of  France. 
In  spite  of  prodigies  of  valour  on  the  part  of  the  English  monarch,  the 
sole  advantages  obtained  by  the  Franks  from  Saladin  at  the  ensuing 
peace  were  the  possession  of  a  narrow  strip  of  the  coast-district,  and 
permission  for  pilgrims  to  visit  Jerusalem.  Saladin  died  soon  after 
the  departure  of  the  Franks;  his  empire  was  dismembered ;  and  Melik 
el-' Adii,  his  brother,  was  now  the  only  formidable  antagonist  of  the 
Franks.  The  Fourth  Crusade  (1204)  promoted  Frankish  interests 
in  Palestine  as  little  as  the  third.  In  both  of  these  crusades  the 
Italian  cities  of  Pisa,  Genoa,  and  Venice  had  actively  participated 
with  a  view  to  their  commercial  interests.  The  Fifth  Crusade,  led 
by  King  Andreas  of  Hungary  (1217),  was  equally  unsuccessful. 
At  length,  the  state  of  political  affairs  being  highly  favourable  to 
his  enterprise,  the  heretical  Emperor  Frederick  II.,  who  had  been 
compelled  by  the  Pope  to  undertake  a  crusade,  obtained  possession 
of  Jerusalem  by  convention  for  a  period  of  ten  years  ( 1229).  Mean- 
while Syria  was  the  scene  of  uninterrupted  feuds  among  the  petty 
Arabian  princes,  particularly  the  Eyyubides.  In  1240  a  French  army 
once  more  endeavoured  in  vain  to  gain  a  footing  in  Palestine.  The 
last  Crusade,  undertaken  by  St.  Louis  in  1248,  was  equally  fruitless. 
The  Kharezmians  from  Central  Asia  began  to  devastate  Syria 
in  the  year  1240,  and  at  length  settled  in  N.  Syria,  but,  owing  to 
the  incessant  wars  among  the  different  dynasties,  were  afterwards 
driven  towards  Jerusalem,  where  they  treated  the  Christians  with 
great  cruelty.  More  important  was  another  change.  Various  prin- 
ces were  in  the  habit  of  providing  themselves  with  a  body-guard 
composed  partly  of  slaves  purchased  for  the  purpose,  generally  of 
Turkish  origin.  In  Egypt  these  military  slaves  or  Mamelukes  suc- 
ceeded in  usurping  the  supreme  power.  Eibek,  the  first  founder  of 
a  Mameluke  dynasty,  had  to  undergo  many  conflicts  with  Nasir, 
the  Eyyubide  prince  of  N.  Syria,  before  he  gained  possession  of 
Syria.  The  Mongols  now  assumed  a  more  and  more  threatening  atti- 
tude towards  Syria.  They  had  long  since  put  an  end  to  the  empire 
of  the  khalifs  at  Baghdad,  and  they  now  directed  their  attacks  against 
Nasir.  HUlagA  captured  Aleppo  (Haleb)  about  1260,  after  which 
he  continued  his  victorious  career  through  Syria.  Damascus,  having 
surrendered,  was  spared.  The  Mameluke  sultan  Kotuz,  however, 
with  the  aid  of  his  famous  general  Beibars,  recovered  nearly  the 
whole  of  Syria  from  the  Mongols.  Beibars  himself  now  usurped  the 
supreme  power,  and  maintained  his  authority  against  both  Mongols 
and  Franks.  He  captured  Cacsarea  and  Arsuf  in  1265,  RafeJ  and 
Jaffa  in  1266,  and  Antioch  in  1268,  and  reduced  the  Assassins  of 
Syria  to  great  extremities.  To  this  day  many  towers  and  fortifi- 
cations in  Syria  bear  his  name.  He  died  in  1277,  and  his  degenerate 
son  was  dethroned  in  1279  by  the  emir  Kildwun,  who  has  also  left 
many  memorials  of  his  glorious  reign.    The  Franks  retaii\ed  only  a 


HISTORY. 


lxxxv 


few  coast-towns;  and  at  length,  after  the  storming  of  Acre  in  1291, 
they  were  completely  driven  out  of  Palestine. 

The  continued  contests  of  the  14th  cent,  produced  no  leaders 
worthy  of  special  mention.  Syria  ceased  to  have  an  independent 
history.  In  the  year  1400  the  condition  of  Syria  was  further  aggra- 
vated by  a  great  predatory  incursion  of  the  Mongols  under  Timur, 
on  which  occasion  multitudes  of  the  inhabitants  were  butchered. 
Many  of  the  scholars  and  artists  of  the  country,  including  the  famous 
armourers  of  Damascus,  were  carried  to  Samarkand. 

In  the  year  1516  war  broke  out  between  the  Osmans  and  the 
Mamelukes,  and  the  latter  were  defeated  to  the  N.  of  Aleppo  by 
Sultan  Sellm.  The  whole  of  Syria  was  conquered  by  the  Osmans. 
The  sultans  claim  to  be  the  successors  of  the  khalifs ;  that  is,  they 
maintain  the  form  of  the  ancient  theocratic  constitution.  As  soon, 
however,  as  the  first  flower  of  the  Osmans  had  passed  away,  the  in- 
feriority of  the  Turkish  race  to  the  Arabian  became  apparent.  —  Dur- 
ing  the  19th  century,  however,  Syria  witnessed  somewhat  better  days 
after  the  reforms  effected  by  Sultan  Mahmud  (1808-39).  A  regular 
class  of  officials  has  been  established.  A  militia  on  the  European  mod- 
el was  organized,  and  of  late  years  a  few  schools  have  been  founded. 

Napoleon  I. ,  when  returning  from  Egypt,  captured  Jaffa  In  1799 
and  laid  siege  to  Acre.  He  defeated  the  Turks  on  the  plain  of 
.Tezreel,  and  penetrated  as  far  as  Safed  and  Nazareth.  —  'Abdallah 
Pasha,  son  of  Jezzar  Pasha  (p.  230),  having  rendered  himself  almost 
independent  in  Palestine,  thus  afforded  a  pretext  to  Mohammed 
'All,  the  powerful  ruler  of  Egypt,  to  intervene  forcibly  in  the  affairs 
of  Syria  (1831).  Ibrahim  Pasha,  son  of  Mohammed,  captured  Acre 
and  Damascus  with  the  aid  of  the  EmirBeshir  (p.  288),  and  defeated 
the  Turks  at  Horns  and  Beilan  in  N.  Syria.  He  then  continued  his 
march  towards  Constantinople,  but  the  European  powers,  and  Russia 
in  particular,  intervened.  The  Egyptian  supremacy  in  Syria  did  not, 
however,  much  improve  the  condition  of  that  unhappy  country.  In 
1834  an  insurrection  broke  out  in  Palestine,  but  was  quelled.  In 
1839  at  Nisib  Ibrahim  Pasha  gained  another  brilliant  victory  over 
the  Turks.  Meanwhile  the  discontent  which  prevailed  in  Syria,  in 
consequence  of  the  heavy  burdens  imposed  on  the  land,  steadily 
increased.  In  1840  Lebanon  revolted,  and  the  French  government 
thereupon  withdrew  its  protection  from  Mohammed.  At  length,  dur- 
ing the  same  year,  England  and  Austria  regained  Syria  for  the  sultan 
'Abdu'l-Mejid,  the  scale  having  been  turned  against  the  Egyptians  by 
the  bombardment  and  capture  of  Acre  by  Napier.  After  the  massacre 
of  the  Christians  in  1860  (p.  298)  Prance,  as  the  guardian  of  Roman 
Catholic  interests,  sent  a  body  of  troops  to  protect  the  Christians  in 
Syria.  Since  that  intervention  the  Lebanon  district  has  been  formed 
into  an  independent  Liwa  (p.  Ivii),  the  governor  of  which  is  ap- 
pointed for  five  years  with  the  consent  of  the  Great  Powers,  and 
is  required  to  profess  the  Christian  religion. 


lxxxvi 


Chronological  Table. 


Up  to  the  period  of  tbe  Exile  the  dates  given  can  be  taken  only  as 
approximate. 


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CHRONOLOGICAL  TABLE. 


Ixxxvii 


727-699 
722 

705 

098-43. 

642-40 

640-9 


609 
608-597 


597 

597-86 

586 

586-73 
561 
538 

520 

•516 

458 

445 


444 
344 
333 
332 


320 
314 
312 


Hezekiah.     Is  tributary  to  the  Assyrians. 

Sargon  captures  Samaria  and  deports  some  of  the  inhab- 
itants to  Assyria. 

Hezekiah  rebels  against  Sennacherib.  Alliance  with  Egypt. 
Sennacherib  invades  Judah  on  his  march  against  Egypt. 

Manasseh. 

Amon.     Is  murdered  by  conspirators. 

Josiah,  under  the  guidance  of  Jeremiah  and  Zephaniah, 
centralises  the  worship  ofYahweh.  Josiah  falls  whilst 
lighting  against  the  Egyptians  at  Megiddo.  The  king- 
dom dependent  on  Pharaoh-Necho,  King  of  Egypt. 

Jehoahaz,  son  of  Josiah,  dethroned  by  Pharaoh-Necho. 

Eliakim,  brother  of  Jehoahaz,  made  king  by  Necho  under 
the  name  of  Jehoiakim.  Syria  tributary  to  Egypt.  After 
Necho's  defeat  at  Carchemish  Jehoiakim  serves  Nebu- 
chadnezzar, but  rebels  after  three  years. 

.lehoiachin.  Nebuchadnezzar  takes  Jerusalem  and  carries 
the  inhabitants  away  captives  for  the  second  time. 

Zedekiah,  uncle  of  Jehoiachin,  relying  on  Pharaoh-Hophra, 
King  of  Egypt,  rebels  against  Nebuchadnezzar. 

Siege  of  Jerusalem;  destruction  of  the  Temple;  the 
princes  carried  away  captive  to  Babylon;  others  flee 
to  Egypt.    End  of  the  kingdom  of  Judah. 

Nebuchadnezzar  besieges  Tyre  (13  years)  in  vain. 

Jehoiachin   is   released  from  prison  by  Evil-Merodach. 

By  permission  of  Cyrus,  Zcrubbabel  and  Joshua  conduct 
some  of  the  Jews  back  to  Palestine. 

Foundation  of  the  Second  Temple.  Its  erection  obstructed 
by  the  Samaritans. 

Completion  of  the  Temple.  Establishment  of  the  ritual 
by  the  priests  and  Levites. 

During  the  reign  of  Artaxerxes  I.  Longimanus  Ezra  brings 
back  more  Jews  and  Benjamites. 

Nehemiah,  cupbearer  of  Artaxerxes  I.,  is  appointed  gov- 
ernor of  Jerusalem,  and  fortifies  the  city.  Erection  of 
a  temple  on  Mt.  Gerizim.  Introduction  of  the  Samaritan 
worship. 

Promulgation  of  the  Book  of  the  Law  brought  by  Ezra. 

Sidon  destroyed  by  the  Persian  king  Artaxerxes  III.  Ochus. 

Alexander  the  Great  conquers  Syria  after  the  battle  of  Issus. 

Tyre  captured  and  destroyed.  The  Jews  submit  to  Alexan- 
der. Andromachus ,  and  afterwards  Memnon  ,  governor 
of  Palestine. 

Ptolemy  I  (Soter)  takes  possession  of  Syria  and  Palestine. 

Antigonus  wrests  Palestine  from  him. 

Beginning  of  the  era  of  the  Seleucidse. 


lxwviii 


CIIUOXOLOGICAL  TAP.LE. 


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CHRONOLOGICAL  TABLE. 


lxxxix. 


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xc 

CHRONOLOGICAL  TABLE. 

A.  D. 

Quirinius  appointed    legate   of  Syria;  Coponius    first  pro- 

6 

curator  of  Judsea,  with  headquarters  at  Ctesarea.    Judas 

Gaulonites   rebels. 

18-30 

Cuiaphas,  high-priest. 

20 

Pontius  Pilate  appointed  governor. 

28 

Ministry  of  Christ.     Crucified  about  31. 

36 

Marullus  succeeds  Pilate. 

44 

Revolt  ofTheudas  quelled  by  the  procurator  Cuspius  Fadus. 

48 

Cumanus,  procurator. 

52 

Felix,  procurator  of  Judrea. 

00 

Porcius  Festus,  procurator. 

04 

Gessius  Florus,  procurator  of  Judeea,  causes  the  outbreak 
of  a  rebellion. 

6T 

Vespasian  conquers  Galilee. 

70 

Titus   captures  Jerusalem.     Lucilius  Bassus   and  Flavius 
Sylva  quell  the  insurrection  in  the  rest  of  the  country. 

118 

Tineius  Rufus,  governor  of  Palestine. 

132 

Insurrection  of  Bar  Cochba  (acknowledged  as  the  Messiah 
by  the  Rabbi  Akiba)  is  put  down  by  Julius  Severus. 

135 

Bar  Cochba   .slain.     Jerusalem  converted    into    a    heathen 
colony,  under  the  name  of  JSlia  Capitolina. 

218-222 

Antonius  Heliogabalus  of  Emesa,  Emperor  of  Rome. 

244-249 

Philip  Arabs  of  the  Hauran,  Emperor  of  Rome. 

260-267 

Odenathus,  King  of  Palmyra. 

272 

Aurelian  defeats  Zenobia  and  destroys  Palmyra. 

323-330 

Constantino  the  Great.     Recognition  of  Christianity. 

320 

Pilgrimage  of  St.  Helena  to  Jerusalem. 

527-505 

Justinian  I. 

570  or  571 

Birth  of  Mohammed. 

616 

Chosroes  II.,  King  of  Persia,  conquers  Syria  and  Palestine. 

622-028 

Heraclius,  Emperor   of  Byzantium,  reconquers   these  pro- 
vinces. 

022 

Mohammed's  flight  (Hc-srira  or  Hijra)    from   Mecca   to  El- 
Modina  (10th  July). 

632 

Death  of  Mohammed. 

032-634 

Abu  Bekr,  father-in-law  of  Mohammed,  first  Khalif.    The 
general  Khalid  conquers  Bosra  in  Syria. 

634-644 

'Omar,  Khalif. 

636etseq. 

Defeat  of  the  Byzantines  on  the  Yarmuk.    Syria  falls  into 
the  hands   of  the  Arabs.     Damascus,    Jerusalem,  and 
Antioch  captured. 

644-056 

rOthman,  Khalif. 

656-601 

fAli,  Khalif. 

601-679 

Mu'awiya,    the   first  Khalif  of  the    family   of  the   Omay- 
yades,  makes  Damascus  his  residence. 

CHRONOLOGICAL  TABLE. 


(580-683 
083-685 

685-706 

705-715 
715-717 
717-720 
720-724 
724-743 
743-744 
744 

745 

750 


780  (1) 

901  (2) 
934  (5) 

944-967 

069 

1070  (1) 

1096 

1098 
1099 

1100-1118 

1104-28 
1118-31 

1131-43 

1143-62 

1146 


Yezid  I. 

Merwan  I.;  he  defeats  the  Keisites  in  the  neighbourhood 

of  Damascus. 
rAbd  el-Melik.     Battles   with  'Abdallah    Ibn   ez-Zubeir  at 

Mecca  (692)  and  with  'Abd  er-Rahman  (704). 
Welid  I.;  the  Arabian  supremacy  extended  to  Spain  (711). 
Suleiman  defeats  the  Byzantines. 
'Omar  II. 
Yezid  II. 
Hisham. 
Welid  II. 
Yezid  III.;    revolt    in   Palestine.   —   Ibrahim,    brother  of 

Yezid,  reigns  for  a  few  months. 
Merwan  II.  deprives  Ibrahim  of  his  authority.   Continued 

disturbances  in  Syria. 
Merwan  defeated  by   the  'Abbasides  at  the  battle  of  the 

Ziib.     The    central  point     of   the    kingdom    removed    to 

'Irak  (Baghdad). 
Ahmed  Ibn  Tulun,  governor  of  Egypt,  conquers  the  whole 

of  Syria. 
Rise  of  the  turbulent  sect  of  Carmates. 
Ikhshid,  founder  of  the  dynasty  of  Ikhshidides,  appointed 

governor  of  Syria  and  Egypt. 
Seif  ed-Dauleh,  a  Hamdanide,  fights  against  the  Greeks  and 

the  Ikhshidides  at  Aleppo. 
The  Fatimites  conquer  Egypt,  and,  after  repeated  attempts, 

the  whole  of  Syria  also.     Continued  struggles. 
Rise  of  the  Seljuks,    who    gradually   obtain  possession  of 

the   whole   of   Syria,    capturing   Damascus   about    1075, 

and  Antioeh  about  1085. 
Beginning  of  the  first  Crusade;  Godfrey  do  Bouillon,  Bald- 
win, Bohemund,  Raymond  IV. 
The  Crusaders  capture  Antioeh. 
Baldwin  declared  prince  of  Edessa.  Conquest  of  Jerusalem.' 

Godfrey  de  Bouillon  king;  defeats  t  he  Egyptians  at  A  scalon. 
Baldwin  I.,  King  of  Jerusalem.     The  Franks  capture  Coc- 

sarea,  Tripoli,  and  Beirilt. 
Togtekin,  Prince  of  Damascus,  defeats  the  Franks. 
Baldwin  II.;  under  him  the  Frank  dominions  reach  their 

greatest  extent. 
Fulke  of  Anjou,  King  of  Jerusalem. 
Baldwin  III. ;  conquers  Acre  in  1163. 

Nureddin,  son  of  Zengi,    ruler  of   N.  Syria,  captures  Da- 
mascus (dynasty  of  the  Atabekcs);  he  takes  Edessa  and 

oppresses  the  Franks. 


CHRONOLOGICAL  TABLE. 


114749 
1148 

11C2-73 

1171 

1173-85 
1180 
1183 

1185-86 

1186-87 

1187 

1189-92 

1193 

1228-29 

1244 
1259-60 

12G0-77 

1279-90 
1291 

1400 
1517 

1598-1634 
1799 
1832 

1839 
1840 
1847 
1SG0 


Second  Crusade ,  under  Louis  VII.  of  France  and  Con- 
rad III.  of  Germany. 

The  Franks  endeavour  to  capture  Damascus,  of  which  Nur- 
eddin  gains  possession  six  years  later. 

Amalrich,  King  of  Jerusalem,  undertakes  a  campaign 
against  Egypt. 

Salah  cd-Din  (Saladin),  the  Eyyubide,  puis  an  cud  to  the 
dynasty  of  the  Fatimites  in  Egypt. 

Baldwin  IV.,  the  Leper. 

Victory  of  the  Franks  at  Itamleh. 

Saladin  becomes  master  of  the  whole  of  Syria,  except  the 
Frank  possessions. 

Baldwin  V. 

Guy  of  Lusignan. 

Saladin  gains  a  victory  atHatjin,  and  conquers  nearly  the 
whole  of  Palestine. 

Third  Crusade,  under  Frederick  Barbarossa,  Richard Cceur- 
de-Lion,  and  Philip  Augustus. 

Saladin  cedes  the  seaboard  from  Jaffa  to  Acre  to  the 
Franks.     Death  of  Saladin. 

Fifth  Crusade.  Frederick  II.  obtains  Jerusalem,  etc. 
from  Kamil,  Sultan  of  Egypt. 

The  Kharezmians,  invited  to  aid  theEgyptians,  ravage  Syria. 

The  Mongols  under  Hulagu  conquer  N.  and  Central 
Syria,  and  penetrate  as  far  as  the  Egyptian  frontier. 

Beibars ,  the  Mameluke  Sultan  of  Egypt ,  recaptures  Da- 
mascus, and  defeats  the  Franks  (1265-1268). 

Kilawun,  Sultan  of  Egypt. 

His  son,  Melik  el-Ashraf,  puts  an  end  to  the  Frank  rule 
in  Palestine. 

Timurlenk  (Tamerlane)  conquers  Syria. 

Selim  I.  wrests  Syria  from  the  Mamelukes  and  incorpor- 
ates it  with  the  Turkish  empire. 

Fakhreddin,  emir  of  the  Druses. 

Napoleon    conquers   Jaffa.     Battle  of  Mt.  Tabor.     Retreat. 

Mohammed  fAli  Pasha  of  Egypt;  his  adopted  son  Ibrahim 
conquers  Syria,  and  the  country  is  ceded  to  Egypt,  by 
Turkey  at  the  peace  of  Kutahya  in  1833. 

Turkey  introduces  reforms.  Sultan  'Abdul  Mejid  issues 
the  khatti-sherif  of  Gulkhaneh. 

Intervention  of  the  European  powers.  Syria  re-conquered 
for  the  Porte,  chiefly  by    the  English  fleet. 

An  affray  in  the  church  of  the  Nativity  at  Bethlehem 
leads,  after  longnegociations,  to  war  with  Russia  (1853-56). 

The  Druses  rise  against  the  Christians.  French  expe- 
dition in  1861. 


VII.  History  of  Art  in  Syria. 

Syria  has  never  produced  any  original  form  of  art.  The  Semitic 
race  has  always  entertained  a  peculiar  aversion  for  images  of  all 
kinds.  There  are,  however,  scattered  throughout  the  country  vestiges 
of  art-workmanship  belonging  to  the  most  widely  different  schools 
and  ages. 

The  mountains  of  Syria  abound  in  Caverns,  and  there  is  ample 
evidence  to  show  that  the  aboriginal  inhabitants  of  the  country  were 
troglodytes,  or  dwellers  in  caves.  Remains  of  such  dwellings  are 
still  to  be  found  in  the  llauran  (p.  154),  and  the  caverns  in  the  region 
of  Beit  Jibriii  (p.  1-1(5)  belong  to  the  same  class.  Many- of  the 
series  of  caverns  clearly  testify  to  the  skilful  use  of  tools  of  metal. 

Although  the  use  of  copper  in  Syria  dates  back  to  an  early  age, 
Flint  Implements  were  not  discarded  for  a  long  time,  as  is  evi- 
denced by  the  numbers  of  them  discovered,  especially  at  various 
points  along  the  Nahr  el-Kelb  (p.  281),  where  they  are  generally 
found  united  into  a  firm  breccia,  along  with  the  teeth  of  various 
animals.  Flint  knives,  axes,  saws,  and  the  like  have  been  collected 
in  great  numbers  wherever  excavations  have  been  carried  on  (Tell 
el-Hasi,  p.  118;  Abu  Shusheh,  p.224;  Ta'annak,  p.  223;  Tell  el- 
Mutesellim,  p.  224).  The  country  to  th#  E.  of  the  Jordan  is  parti- 
cularly rich  in  Stone  Monuments,  including  Menhirs,  Cromlechs, 
Cairns  (especially  in  E.  Moab),  and  (most  of  all)  Dolmens.  All  of 
these  had  some  religious  significance.  Holy  stones  (Mazzehol)  were 
to  be  found  in  ancient  times  in  every  part  of  Syria.  The  dolmens 
were  originally  sacrificial  tables,  but  some  were  also  used  as  graves. 
The  space  inside  the  tombs  is,  however,  so  short  that  the  bodies 
must  have  been  buried  in  a  bent  position.  Skeletons  in  this  posi- 
tion have  been  discovered  in  the  dolmens  of  the  mountains  of  Sinai. 

In  a  land  so  deficient  in  springs  as  Palestine  it  was  also  ne- 
cessary to  dig  Cisterns  and  line  them  with  masonry,  or  to  hew  them 
out  of  the  solid  rock  (coinp.  Dent.  vi.  11).  These  cisterns  were 
often  extended  so  as  to  form  large  reservoirs  (p.  58).  Many  of  them 
have  their  mouths  closed  with  large  stones.  Pools  were  also  con- 
structed, in  the  form  of  large  open  tanks,  in  which  spring  or  rain 
water  was  collected,  while  the  water  of  the  springs  w as  conducted 
to  the  villages  by  means  of  Aqueducts. 

The  Oil  and  Wine  Presses  which  occur  so  frequently  in  Syria 
are  also  .very  ancient.  These  consist  of  square  or  circular  holes 
in  the  rocks,  about  3-4  ft.  deep  and  up  to  13  feet  long,  with  a 
hole  at  the  bottom  through  which  the  wine  or  oil  flowed  into  a  vat. 
The  Phoenician  oil-presses  are  more  carefully  constructed  than  the 
Hebrew.  All  these  excavations  must  have  required  considerable 
experience  in  the  use  of  the  chisel,  although  the  rock  is  not  parti- 
cularly hard. 


HISTORY  OF  ART. 


The  whole  country  is  full  of  ancient  Rock  Tombs,  but  it  is  very 
difficult  to  ascertain  the  periods  to  which  they  respectively  belong. 
A  favourite  practice  was  to  excavate  these  chambers  in  the  face  of  a 
precipitous  rock,  with  their  entrances  sometimes  at  an  apparently 
inaccessible  height  from  the  ground.  Where  no  such  slopes  were 
available,  a  shaft  was  sunk  in  the  rock  and  the  tomb  excavated  in 
the  side  of  the  shaft,  in  which  a  staircase  descended. 

These  tombs  are  classified  as  follows :  —  (1).  Sunken  Tombs, 
hollowed  in  the  rock  like  modern  graves,  and  then  closed  with  a 
slab  of  stone.  —  (2).  Shaft  Tombs  (Ileb.  kdktm),  consisting  of 
openings  5-6  ft.  long  and  l1/^  ft-  square,  usually  hewn  horizont- 
ally in  the  rock,  into  which  the  body  was  pushed.  —  (3).  Shelf 
Tombs,  shelves  or  benches  for  the  reception  of  the  dead,  about  2  ft. 
from  the  ground;  sometimes  these  were  hewn  out  of  the  rock,  gen- 
erally with  vaulted  roofs.  —  (4).  Niche  Tombs,  hewn  laterally  in 
the  face  of  the  rock,  about  21/2  ft.  from  the  ground,  of  the  length  of 
the  body,  and  about  l1^  ft-  square.  Strictly  speaking,  this  variety 
is  a  combination  of  Nos.  1  and  3,  the  sunken  tomb  being  hollowed 
out  in  the  shelf  hewn  in  the  rock. 

The  Tomb  Chambers  are  of  three  kinds  :  —  (1).  Single  chambers 
which  are  open  and  have  one  sunken  tomb  in  the  floor.  —  (2).  Single 
chambers  but  containing  several  graves  of  different  varieties  (espe- 
cially shelf-tombs  and  shaft-tombs).  —  (3).  The  third  kind  con- 
sists of  aggregates  of  chambers,  and  often  has  a  handsome  portal 
and  a  vestibule.  The  architectural  decorations  consist  chiefly  of 
wreaths  of  flowers,  and  the  Egyptian  hollow-moulded  cornice  fre- 
quently recurs.  Graco-Roman  influence  is  shown  by  the  use  of  Ionic 
and  Corinthian  capitals.  Egyptian  influence  is  also  apparent  in  the 
case  of  the  pyramids  which  sometimes  surmount  monumental  tombs. 
—  For  the  rock-tombs  of  the  Phoenicians,  comp.  p.  273.  The  custom 
of  engraving  inscriptions  on  stone  was  not  common  among  the  an- 
cient Hebrews  and  Phoenicians. 

Hebrew  Architecture  is  entirely  dependent  on  that  of  the 
Phoenicians,  who  in  turn  borrowed  their  types  from  Egyptian  and 
Babylonian  sources.  David's  palace  and  Solomon's  temple  were 
works  of  Phoenician  architecture.  A  distinctive  peculiarity  of  this 
architecture  consisted  in  the  fact  that,  instead  of  the  column,  as  in 
Greece,  the  fundamental  source  of  their  style  was  the  sculptured 
rock,  of  which  the  separate  piers  afterwards  used  were  merely  an 
imitation.  Hence  it  is  that,  quite  contrary  to  the  principles  of 
classical  architecture,  the  plan  of  the  structure  is  entirely  sub- 
servient to  its  material.  Hence  also,  probably,  the  use  of  enormous 
blocks  of  stone  in  building  (comp.  pp.  65,  66,  325).  The  surface 
of  the  blocks  was  either  left  rough  ('rusticated'),  or  slightly  hewn, 
or  completely  planed.  The  stones,  though  fitted  together  without 
mortar,  are  jointed  with  marvellous  accuracy.  It  is  doubtful  whether 
the  builders  of  the  most  ancient  period  were  acquainted  with  draft- 


HISTORY  OF  ART. 


ing,  such  as  appears  (e.g.)  in  the  buildings  of  Herod.  The  drafting 
is  formed  by  slightly  sinking  the  face  of  the  stone  round  its  outer 
margin  to  a  width  of  V2-IV2  *noa< 

It  is  probable  that  the  influence  of  Greek  Art  had  begun  to 
make  itself  felt  in  Syria  even  before  the  time  of  Alexander.  It  has 
frequently  been  asserted  that  a  number  of  Ionic  forms  and  the  art 
of  overlaying  certain  parts  of  buildings  with  metal  were  imported 
by  the  Greeks  from  the  nearer  regions  of  the  East.  This  may  have 
been  so ;  but  the  Syrians  certainly  received  in  return  from  Greece 
the  fully  elaborated  forms  of  Greek  sculpture,  although  the  lime- 
stone used  in  Syria  was  inferior  to  the  Greek  marble  as  a  material 
for  Corinthian  capitals  and  figures.  Numerous  though  the  monu- 
ments of  the  period  of  the  Diadochi  must  have  been,  hardly  one  of 
them  is  now  extant  in  Syria,  but  those  of  the  Roman  Period  arc 
still  abundant.  The  Romans  extended  their  military  roads  even  to 
the  most  remote  districts,  and  the  milestones  of  some  of  them  are 
still  in  existence.  It  was  with  a  view  to  ingratiate  himself  with  the 
Romans  that  Herod  caused  sumptuous  edifices  in  the  Roman  style  to 
be  erected  in  various  towns.  After  the  destruction  of  Jerusalem  the 
Roman  colonization  was  actively  extended,  and  new  towns  sprang  up 
under  the  auspices  of  the  governors,  or  at  the  expense  of  the  em- 
perors, particularly  of  Trajan.  The  characteristic  feature  of  these 
towns  was  that  they  were  intersected  by  a  colonnade  leading  from  a 
triple  gate.  At  the  point  where  the  colonnade  was  crossed  by  an- 
other of  smaller  size,  stood  a  Tetrapylon.  On  each  side  of  the  chief 
colonnade  lay  the  temples,  baths,  theatres,  and  nauinachias.  Those 
relics  which  have  been  preserved  date  from  the  later  Roman  period, 
that  is  from  the  2nd  century  downwards,  when  a  falling-off  from 
the  severe  and  dignified  taste  of  the  classical  period  is  manifested  in 
superabundant  decoration,  in  the  adornment  of  niches  surmounted  by 
broken  pediments,  and  in  the  absence  of  harmony  of  design.  Palmyra 
(pp.340  et  seq.),  Ba'albek  (p. 320),  Jerash  (p.140),  and  Petra  (p.  178) 
afford  examples  of  this  style.  The  numerous  small  temples  (perhaps 
tombs),  relics  of  which  are  scattered  throughout  Lebanon,  date  from 
the  same  period,  though  all  turned  towards  the  W.  in  the  Greek 
fashion,  and  are  generally  'in  antis',  with  Ionic  capitals;  the  stylo- 
bate  has  a  cornice  running  round  it,  and  the  cella  is  entered  from 
its  raised  W.  end  by  a  door  leading  through  the  stylobate.  —  A 
peculiar  style  of  architecture  is  seen  in  the  Synagogues  erected  in 
(ialilee  during  the  3rd-6th  centuries.  They  are  quadrangular  in 
form  ,  and  the  interior  is  frequently  divided  into  five  aisles  by 
means  of  four  rows  of  massive  columns.  These  columns  bore  an 
architrave  of  stone,  the  roof  was  of  wood,  and  the  ornamentation, 
especially  that  of  the  cornices,  was  extremely  rich.  The  two  last 
internal  supports  towards  the  N.  end  always  consist  of  square  pillars 
rounded  off  towards  the  interior.  It  is  remarkable  that  figures  of  ani- 
mals were  frequently  carved  on  the  synagogues. 


xcvi  HISTORY  OF  ART. 

Christian  Architecture.  —  Towards  the  close  of  the  third  century 
it  became  customary  to  employ  vaulted  domes  to  cover  large  spaces, 
and  the  important  invention  of  uniting  the  dome  with  the  quadran- 
gular substructions  by  means  of  'pendentives'  or  brackets  was  next 
adopted.  At  the  same  time  simple  basilicas  supported  by  rectangular 
piers,  and  afterwards  by  columns,  were  also  frequently  erected.  The 
northern  group  of  the  buildings  of  that  period,  between  Ham  a  and 
Aleppo,  is  especially  interesting.  Columnar  basilicas  and  dome- 
covered  structures  occur  here  also,  but  basilicas  borne  by  piers  are 
rare.  The  facade  consists  of  an  open  colonnade;  the  apse  is  generally 
round  internally  and  quadrangular  externally;  and  numerous  wind- 
ows, and  as  a  rule  side-doors  also,  are  inserted  in  the  aisles  and  upper 
part  of  the  nave.  The  capitals  of  the  columns  sometimes  approach 
■hthe  acanthus  type,  but  are,  occasionally  in  the  shape  of  a  calyx  which 
lias  been  developed  by  the  native  architects  after  a  fashion  of  their 
own.  The  apses,  as  well  as  the  windows  and  portals,  are  adorned 
with  decorated  string-courses  terminating  in  knots  reseinblingivol- 
utes.  The  ornamentation  of  the  friezes  consists  of  foliage,  fruit, 
grapes,  and  the  acanthus;  but  vases,  peacocks,  and  other  objects  also 
occur,  while  crosses  are  invariably  introduced.  —  In  the  chief  towns 
of  Palestine,  and  particularly  in  places  of  religious  resort,  the  Greek 
emperors  after  the  time  of  Constantino  the  Great  erected  a  number 
of  spacious  Basilicas.  The  Empress  Helena  enjoys  a  high  reputation 
as  a  builder.  To  her  (or  else  to  Solomon)  every  considerable  build- 
ing of  unknown  origin  is  ascribed.  The  ancient  basilica  of  Bethlehem 
(converted  by  Justinian)  has  been  preserved',  but  of  the  earliest 
constructions  of  the  church  of  the  Holy  Sepulchre  few  relics  now 
exist.  The  Aksa  affords  an  example  of  an  ancient  basilica  which  the 
Arabs  have  restored  in  the  original  style  and  converted  into  a  mosque. 
The  Arabs  at  first  employed  Greek  architects  and  builders  : 
hence  the  strong  resemblance  of  their  edifices  to  those  of  the  Chris- 
tians. 'Die  rotunda  of  the  church  of  the  Sepulchre  served  as  the 
model  for  that  of  the.mosque  of  'Omar  (es-Sakhra).  Like  the  Byzan- 
tines, the  Arabs  were  in  the  habit  of  covering  their  walls  and  domes 
with  mosaic.  While  the  Arabs  in  their  architectural  works  chiefly 
followed  the  style  which  already  existed  in  Syria,  they  nevertheless 
developed  various  forms  peculiar  to  themselves.  At  a  later  period 
taste  degenerated.  They  began  capriciously  to  give  their  domes  a 
bulbous  form,  and  to  cover  their  vaulting  internally  with  a  super- 
ficial structure  of  miniature  arcading,  reminding  the  spectator  of  a 
honeycomb.  This  is  the  so-called  'stalactite  vaulting',  in  which 
the  Impression  of  solidity  properly  conveyed  by  a  vaulted  structure 
is  entirely  neutralized.  The  Arabs  also  frequently  stilted  the  sides 
of  the  round  arch  above  the  capitals  of  the  supporting  pillars,  and 
at  an  early  period  (as  early  as  the  9th  cent,  in  Egypt)  they  also 
began  to  use  the  pointed  arch  and  the  horseshoe  arch,  the  Utter 
being  exclusively  an  invention  of  their  own.     The  great  fault  of 


HISTORY  OF  ART. 


Arabian  architecture  is  its  want  of  strict  organic  coherence;  instead 
of  having  regard  to  the  general  effect  of  their  buildings,  the  minds 
of  the  architects  were  entirely  devoted  to  ornamentation  and  other 
details;  and  hence  the  unsatisfactory  impression  produced  by  these 
edifices,  notwithstanding  all  their  showy  wealth  of  arabesques. 
One  often  observes,  for  example,  ancient  columns  with  beautiful 
capitals  placed  immediately  beside  modern  Arabian  columns  or 
clumsy  piers.  The  coloured  arabesques,  the  idea  of  which  was  prob- 
ably borrowed  from  woven  tapestries,  are  often  very  cleverly  de- 
signed, but  they  soon  weary  the  eye  of  the  beholder. 

Syria  cannot  boast  of  many  original  buildings  in  the  Arabian 
style,  the  reason  being  that  the  Arabs  here  found  abundance  of 
ancient  edifices  which  they  could  easily  adapt  for  their  own  pur- 
poses. Taking  advantage  of  the  wonderfully  substantial  foundations 
of  antiquity,  and  using  either  ancient  materials  or  inferior  ones  of 
their  own,  they  erected  on  these  foundations  their  town-walls,  their 
towers,  and  their  castles,  all  of  which  speedily  again  fell  into  decay. 
They  supposed  that  additional  strength  was  imparted  to  their  walls 
by  building  fragments  of  columns  into  them;  and  they  often  en- 
deavoured to  produce  the  appearance  of  such  a  construction  arti- 
ficially. This  was  also  done  by  the  Crusaders.  Thus  in  the  vicinity 
of  ancient  harbour-fortifications  in  particular,  we  often  see  many 
scattered  portions  of  columns,  most  of  which  were  once  incorporated 
with  the  badly  built  walls  of  which  no  other  trace  is  now  left. 

Many  buildings  of  the  Mediaeval  Period  are  still  extant.  In  the 
case  of  many  of  the  Castles  of  Syria  it  is  difficult  to  determine 
whether  they  were  erected  by  the  Saracens  or  by  the  Crusaders;  but 
they  may  be  distinguished  from  each  other  by  the  fact  that  diagonal 
or  sometimes  almost  horizontal  lines  generally  appear  on  the  face 
of  the  blocks  used  by  the  Crusaders.  —  The  Churches  erected  by 
Europeans  on  the  soil  of  the  Holy  Land,  however,  are  easily  distin- 
guishable from  the  Arabian  buildings.  These  churches  are  of  two 
classes.  The  first  embraces  all  the  churches  built  by  the  Franks 
between  1099  and  1187.  These  are  all  in  one  style.  They  possess 
a  nave  and  aisles  of  equal  length,  a  transept,  and  three  apses  ad- 
joining each  other.  The  vaulting  is  smooth  and  without  a  trace  of 
groining,  and  rests  on  simply  constructed  piers.  Above  the  inter- 
section of  the  nave  and  the  transept  rises  a  dome,  springing  from 
pendentives.  The  rest  of  the  building  is  covered  with  a  flat  roof. 
The  buttresses  project  but  slightly  beyond  the  outside  walls,  and 
pointed  arches  are  universal.  —  The  second  class  of  these  churches 
embraces  those  of  the  13th  century.  They  all  lie  on  the  sea-coast, 
and  closely  resemble  French  churches  of  the  same  period,  but  have 
flat  roofs.  The  pointed  arch,  which  prevails  in  these  buildings,  is 
not  the  early  Muslim  arch,  but  that  which  was  afterwards  perfected 
by  western  architects,  so  that  this  European  architecture  may  fitly 
be  termed  an  early  development  of  the  pointed  style  on  Arabian  soil. 

Baedekee's  Palestine  and  Syria.   4th  Edit.  s 


xcviii  BIBLIOGRAPHY. 

The  inexperienced  traveller  is  warned  against  purchasing  Antiquities, 
as  numerous  imitations  are  largely  manufactured  in  Syria  and  Egypt.  Old 
Hebrew  Coins  (SJteltels;  very  seldom  genuine)  are  particularly  valuable;  and 
next  to  them  Phoenician  coins  and  gems,  Greeco-Roman  coins  of  various 
towns,  and  Arabian  coins  of  very  various  periods.  The  tombs  often  con- 
tain tear-vases,  small  statues  and  reliefs,  and  (on  the  Phoenician  coast) 
scarabsei,  etc.  In  the  case  of  such  antiquities  being  offered  for  sale,  en- 
quiry should  always  be  made  as  to  the  place  where  they  were  found. 
Inscriptions  are  found  in  Syria  bearing  the  following  characters.  — 
(1)  Phoenician,  ancient  Hebrew,  and  Samaritan;  (2)  Aramaic  ('Nabatsean' in 
the  Hauran  and  neighbouring  districts,  'Palmyrene''  in  or  near  Palmyra); 
(3)  Greek  (very  numerous);  (4)  Latin;  (5)  Arabic,  which  in  the  earlier 
periods  (Cufic)  more  nearly  approaches  the  Aramaic  character,  but  in  latter 
times  often  became  very  involved;  (6)  Mediaeval  Frank  writing. 


VIII.   Works  on  Palestine  and  Syria. 

The  literature,  of  Palestine  especially,  is  enormous:  we  give  here 
merely  a  few  important  works.  Professional  scholars  may  be  referred  to 
R.  Rohricht's  Bibliotlieea  Qeographica  Palaestinae  (Berlin.  1890).  The  chief 
agents  in  the  exploration  of  Palestine  are  the  Palestine  Exploration  Fund 
(at.  work  since  1867),  the  German  Palestine  Exploration  Society  {Deutscher 
Verein  zur  ErfoncMing  Palastinas;  since  1878),  and  the  Russian  Palestine 
Society.  It  is  scarcely  necessary  to  remark  that  the  traveller  is  assumed  to 
have  his  Bible  with  him. 

Periodical  Publication. 
Quarterly  Statements  of  the  Palestine  Exploration  Fund  (London). 
Zeitschrift  des  Deutschen  Palastina-Vereins  (Karl  Baedeker,  Leipzig). 
Revue  Biblique  (Ecole  d'Etudes  Bibliques,  Jerusalem). 

Geography. 

The  Survey  of  Western  Palestine,  9  vols.,  London,  1884  (3  vols.  Me- 
moirs; 1  vol.  Name  List;  1  vol.  Special  Papers ;  1vol.  Jeru- 
salem; 1  vol.  Fauna  and  Flora;  1  vol.  Geology;  1  vol.  Index). 
—  The  Survey  of  Eastern  Palestine,  2  vols.,  London,  1889.  — 
These  works,  published  for  the  Palestine  Exploration  Fund,  are 
the  foundation  of  all  modern  exploration  in  Palestine. 

Ikobinson,  Biblical  Researches  in  Palestine,  etc.  London,  1841.  — 
Later  Biblical  Researches,  etc.  London,  1856.  — '  Physical  Geo- 
graphy of  the  Holy  Land.  London,  1865. 

Conder,  Palestine  (with  maps).  London,  1889.  —  Tent  Vork  in 
Palestine.   London,  1889.  —  Heth  and  Moab.   London,  1889. 

Historical  Gkograhy. 

Names  and  Places  in  the  Old  and  New  Testament  with  their  Modem 
Identification.    London,  1889. 

(Eusebius)  Onomastica  sacra,  ed.  P.  de  Lagarde.    Gottingen,  1887. 

Itinera  Latine  (Publications  de  la  Societe'  de  f  Orient  Latin).  1879. 

Palestine  Pilgrims'  Text  Society' s  Library  (translation  of  the  vritings 
of  mediaeval  pilgrims),  13  vols.,  London,  P.E.F. 

0.  A.  Smith,  Historical  Geography  of  the  Holy  Land.  3rd  ed.,  Lon- 
don, 1896. 


BIBLIOGRAPHY 


Keubauer,  La  ge'ographie  du  Talmud.    Paris,  1868. 

Guy  Le  Strange,  Palestine  under  the  Moslems.  London,  1890. 

Maps. 

Palestine  Exploration  Fund  (London):  Map  of  Western  Palestine,  in 
26  sheets,  from  surveys  conducted  in  1872-1877  (scale  1 :  63,360 
or  1  M.  to  the  inch),  London,  1880.  —  Map  of  Palestine,  with 
modern  names  only,  in  20  sheets.  —  Same  Map,  in  12  sheets.  — 
Old  and  New  Testament  Map  of  Palestine,  in  20  sheets.  —  Same 
Map,  in  12  sheets.  —  Map  of  Western  Palestine,  showing  Water 
Basins  in  colour,  in  6  sheets.  —  The  Sections  of  the  Country 
north  and  south,  and  east  and  west,  on  two  sheets  (Western 
Palestine  only).  —  Plan  of  Jerusalem  (reduced  from  the  Ord- 
nance Survey  Plan),  with  separate  list  of  references. 

Deutscher  Palasiina-Verein  (Leipzig):  Karte  des  Ostjordanlandes 
(I.  Jolan,  II.  North  Ajlun;  scale,  1:152;000),  1896.  —  Karte 
der  naheren  Umgebung  von  Jerusalem  (scale,  1 :  10,000;  1906), 
Karte  der  weiteren  Umgebung  von  Jerusalem  (scale,  1  :  63,360 
or  1  M.  to  the  inch;  1896),  both  by  Schick  #  Benzinger. 

G.  A.  Smith  and  Bartholomew,  Map  of  Palestine.  Edinburgh,  1902. 

Fischer®  Guthe,  Karte  von  Paliistina  (scale,  1 :  700,000).  Leipzig,  1905. 

R.  Huber,  Carte  de  la  Province  du  Liban  (scale,  1 :  100,000),  1905. 

History. 
F.  J.  Bliss  and  B.  A.  Steioart  Macalister,  Excavations  in  Palestine, 

1898-1900.    London,  Palestine  Exploration  Fund. 
F.  J.  Bliss,  The  Development  of  Palestine  Exploration.   New  York, 

1906. 
Baton,  Early  History  of  Syria  and  Palestine.  New  York,  1901. 
Petrie,  Syria  and  Egyptfrom  theTell  el-fAmarna Letters.  London,1898. 
J.  Wellhausen,  History  of  Israel.  Translated  by  W.Robertson  Smith, 

Edinburgh,  1889. 
E.  Schiirer,  A  History  of  the  Jewish  People  in  the  Time  of  Christ. 

Translated  by  J.  Macpherson.   2  vols.,  Edinburgh,  1890. 
W.  D.  Morrison,  The  Jews  under  Roman  Rule.    London,  1890. 
Dean  Milman,  History  of  the  Jews.   3  vols.,  London,  1829.    New 

ed.,  1883;  cheap  ed.  in  one  vol.,  1887. 
J.  K.Hosmer,  The  Jews.  London,  1886.  (Story  of  the  Nations  series). 
Dean  Farrar,  The  Herods.  Loudon,  1897. 
J.  F.  Michaud,  History  of  the  Crusades.    Translated  by  W.  Robson. 

3  vols.,  London,  1881. 
Cox,  History  of  the  Crusades.  London,  1878. 

Manners  and  Customs. 
W.  R.  Smith,  The  Religion  of  the  Semites.   New  ed.,  London,  1894. 
E.  W.Lane,  An  Account  of  the  Manners  and  Customs  of  the  Modern 

Egyptians.  London,  1836;  new  ed.,  1882. 
Rev.  G.  Robinson  Lees,  Village  Life  in  Palestine.    London,  1905. 

g* 


c    ,  BIBLIOGRAPHY. 

Post,  Essays  on  the  Sects  and  Nationalities  of  Syria  and  Palestine: 

Pal.  Explor.  Fund.    Quart.  Statements,  1890. 
W.  M.  Thompson,  The  Land  and  the  Book.    3  vols.,  London,  new 

ed.,  1886. 
J.  L.Burclchardt,  Notes  on  the  Beduins  andWahebys.  2  vols.,  Lon- 
don, 1831. 
Clay  Trumbull,  Studies  in  Oriental  Social  Life. 
Geikie,  The  Holy  Land  and  the  Bible. 

Modern  Travels  (and  Illustrate])  Works). 

Harper,  Walks  in  Palestine.  London,  1888  (ill.).  New  ed.,  1894.  — 
The  Bible  and  Modern  Discoveries.    London,  1890. 

Hull,  Mount  Seir,  Sinai,  and  Western  Palestine.    London,  1885. 

Macgregor,  The  Rob  Roy  on  the  Jordan. 

F,  11.  Deverell,  My  Tour  in  Palestine  and  Syria.   London,  1899. 

Hill,  With  the  Beduins.    London,  1891. 

Helen  Miller,  Alone  through  Syria.    London,  1891. 

A.  Heber  Percy,  Moab,  Amnion,  and  Gilead.    London,  1897. 

H.  V.  Hilprecht,  Explorations  in  Bible  Lands  during  the  19th  Cen- 
tury.   Edinburgh,  1903. 

A.  (roodrich-Freer,  In  a  Syrian  Saddle.    London,  190<r>. 

The  earlier  works  by  Laurence  Oliphant  (p.  226),  Dr.  Porter,  King- 
lake  ('Eothen'),  and  Canon  Tristram  may  also  be  mentioned. 

Natural  History  and  Geology. 
Post,  Flora  of  Syria,  Palestine,  and  Sinai.    Beirut,  1896. 
Tristram,   The  Fauna  and  Flora  (Survey).   London,  1889.  —  The 

Natural  History  of  the  Bible  (8th  ed.).   London,  1889. 
Hull,  Memoir  on   the  Physical  Geology  and  Geography  of  Arabia 

Petraa,  Palestine,  etc.  (Survey).    London,  1886. 
Hart,  Some  Account  of  the  Fauna  and  Flora  of  Sinai,  Petra,  and 

WadiAraba.   London,  1891. 
Mrs.  Zeller,  The  Wild  Flowers  of  Palestine. 

History  op  Art. 
Perrot  §■  Chipiez,  History  of  Ancient  Art  in  Judjea,  Sardinia,   and 

Syria.  London,  1890. 
M.de  Vogue,  L'Architecture  civile  et  religieuse  du  ier  an  vie  gieele 

dans  la  Syrie  centrale.    Paris,  1866-1877.  —  Les  Eglises  de  la 

Terre  Sainte.    Paris,  1860. 
/•.'.  duillaume  Rey,  Etudes  sur  les  monuments  do  1' architecture  mili- 

taire  des  Croise"8  en  Syrie  et  dans  l'ile  de  Chypre.   Paris,  1871. 

Language,   see  p.  xxxi;   Jerusalem,  pp.  32,  50;    The  Dead   Sea, 
p.  133;  The  Hauran,  p.  154;  Petra,  p.  174;  The  Peninsula  of  Sinai, 
p.  186  ;  Phoenicia,  p.  265;  Palmyra,  p.  340;  Mesopotamia  and  Baby- 
lonia, p.  396. 


1.  Approaches  to  Palestine. 

The  handbooks  of  the  various  steamship  companies  (see  below)  give 
full  information  as  to  the  steamer- routes  from  England  and  the  various 
Mediterranean  ports.  Particulars  as  to  the  overland  routes  (see  below)  from 
England  to  the  Mediterranean  will  be  found  in  Bradshaw's  Continental  Railway 
Guide  (3».  6tf.).  The  Peninsular  and  Oriental  Co.  (see  below)  issues  tickets 
for  the  sea-journey  out  and  return  overland,  or  vice  versa.  Travellers  from 
the  United  States  may  sail  direct  from  Jiew  York  to  Gibraltar,  Naples,  or 
Genoa  by  German  or  Italian  steamer  (weekly;  fares  $80-175).  —  Meals 
are  included  in  the  fare,  consisting  of  breakfast  (tea  or  coffee),  luncheon 
(11-12  a.m.),  and  dinner  (6-7  p.m.;  on  the  French  and  Italian  steamers  wine 
is  generally  included).  The  Steward's  Fee,  which  the  passenger  pays  at 
the  end  of  the  voyage,  amounts  to  l-l'/2  fr.  per  day,  but  more  is  expected 
if  unusual  trouble  has  been  given.  —  Return  or  Circular  Tickets,  and 
Family  Tickets  for  three  or  more  persons,  are  issued  at  a  reduced  rate  by 
some  of  the  steamship  companies.  Travellers  who  desire  to  return  from 
the  E.  by  one  of  the  larger  mail-lines  should  engage  berths  at  Cairo  or 
Port  Sa  id  as  soon  as  possible,  for  the  steamers  are  apt  to  be  crowded 
from  Feb.  to  April  inclusive. 

Palestine  and  Syria  are  generally  reached  from  England  via 
Egypt,  either  direct  by  steamer,  or  overland  to  the  Mediterranean 
and  theme  by  one  of  the  numerous  mail  steamship-lines  to  Alexan- 
dria or  Port  Sa'id,  from  which  ports  connecting  lines  ply  to  the  Syrian 
coast  (Jaffa,  Beirut,  etc.).  All  the  large  steamship-lines  from  Eng- 
land to  India,  the  East,  and  Australia  call  at  the  Egyptian  ports. 

From  Europe  to  Alexandria  and  Port  Said, 
a.  Steamship  Lines  from  England  direct. 

1.  Peninsular  and  Oriental  Co.  (offices,  122  Leadenhall  St., 
E.G.,  and  Northumberland  Ave.,  W.O.).  From  Tilbury  Dock  (mail 
steaniers)or  Royal  Albert  Dock  (intermediate  steamers)  every  Frid. 
or  Sat.  to  Port  Sa'id  in  12  days,  via  Gibraltar  and  Marseilles  or  Malta 
(fares  1st  el.  22  or  20/.,  2nd  el.  13  or  ill.  ;  from  Marseilles  16  or 
lbl.,  10  or  9/.).  No  return-tickets  are  issued,  but  a  reduction  of  25 
per  cent  is  allowed  if  the  return  journey  be  made  within  12  months. 

2.  Orient  Pacific  Line  (28  Cockspur  St.,  S.  W.,  and  5  Fenchurch 
Ave.,  E.G.).  From  Tilbury  Dock  every  second  Frid.  to  Port  Sa'id  via 
Gibraltar,  Marseilles,  and  Naples.    Fares  about  the  same  as  above. 

3.  North  German  Lloyd  (Norddeutscher  Lloyd;  14  Cockspur  St., 
S.W.).  From  Southampton  ca.  3  times  monthly  to  Port  Sa'id  via 
Genoa  and  Naples.    Fares  as  above. 

4.  Bibby  Line  (10  Mincing  Lane,  London,  L.C.,  and  26  Chapel 
St.,  Liverpool).  From  Liverpool  every  fortnight  to  Port  Sa'id  (and 
India)  via  Marseilles  (fare  1st  cl.  12L). 

b.  From  mediterranean  Ports  and  Constantinople. 
From  Marseilles  (20-24  hrs.  from  London;  fares  1st  cl.  hi. 
17s.  id.  or  61.  Us.  lie/.,  2nd  cl.  &l.  is.  Id.  or  U.  12s.  8d.  accord- 


2    Route  1. 


APPROACHES 


ing  to  route  chosen)  by  'P.  §  0.',  Orient  Pacific,  or  Bibby  Liru  (see 
p.  1)  to  Port  Sa'id,  and  by  North  German  Lloyd  to  Alexandria, 
4  times  monthly.  Also  by  vessels  of  the  Messayeries  Maritimes  (of- 
fices, 16  Rue  Cannebiere,  Marseilles)  every  Thurs.  to  Alexandria 
and  Port  Sa'id,  thence  in  alternate  weeks  to  Jaffa,  Haifa,  and  Beirut 
or  to  Beirut,  Smyrna,  and  Constantinople.  The  traveller  may  also 
make  use  of  the  steamers  of  the  same  company  to  Asia  and  East 
Africa,  which  touch  at  Egyptian  ports,  as  well  as  those  of  the  Rolter- 
datnsche  Lloyd  (from  Rotterdam  via  Southampton  and  Marseilles). 

From  Genoa  (27  hrs.  from  London,  via  Calais  or  Boulogne,  Paris, 
and  Turin;  fares  ll.  Is.  5d. ,  5i.  Is.  8d.)  by  the  Naviyazione  Generate 
Jtaliana  (offices,  8  Leadenhall  St.,  London,  E.G.)  every  Sat.  to 
Alexandria  via  Naples  and  Messina  (fares  from  Genoa,  without  board, 
239  fr.  25  c,  159  fr.  50  c;  from  Naples  198  fr.,  132  ft.).  Olioe  a 
month  the  course  is  continued  to  Jaffa,  Beirut,  Cyprus,  Mersina,  and 
Alexandrutta.  Steamers  of  the  North  German  Lloyd  and  the  German 
East  African  Line  touch  (3-4  times  monthly)  at  Genoa  and  Naples 
on  their  way  to  Port  Sa'id.  The  Dutch  Nederland  Line  steamers 
(from  Amsterdam  to  Port  Sa'id  via  Southampton)  also  call  at  Genoa. 

From  Venice  (32-36V2  hrs.  from  London;  fares  1st  cl.  ll.  14s. 
lOd.  to  81.  12s.  id.,  2nd  cl.  H.  8s.  Id.  to  Ql.  Is.,  according  to  route) 
by  Naviyazione  Generate  on  the  15th  and  30th  of  every  month  at 
8  a.m.  via  Brindisi  (see  below)  to  Alexandria  and  Port  Sa'id  [five 
days;  fares  from  Venice,  without  board,  214  ft.  50  c,  143  ft.). 

From  Brindisi  (541/2-581/2  hrs.  from  London;  fares  1st  cl.  111. 
4s.  lOd.  or  121.  2s.  Ad.,  2nd  el.  TU  17s.  2d.  or  8l.  8s.  2d.,  according  to 
route)  by  'P.  <£•  0.'  steamer  (see  p.  1)  every  Sun.  evening,  in  connection 
with  the  'P.  &  0.'  express  leaving  London  on  Friday.  Fares  (1st  class 
only)  from  Brindisi  to  Port  Sa'id  111.,  from  London  (incl.  railway  and 
sleeping-car)  25i.  9s.  lid.  The  return-trains  from  Brindisi  await  the 
arrival  of  the  steamer  from  Port  Sa'id.  Also  by  Austrian  Lloyd  (see 
below)  every  Frid.  to  Alexandria,  and  by  Naviyazione  Generale  (see 
above;  fares  from  Brindisi,  without  board,  168  fr.  40  c,  105  fr.  60  c). 

From  Trieste  (ca.  45-50  hrs.  from  London;  fares  lOl.  2s.  oilll. 
lis.  Id.  and  ll.  Is.)  in  5  days  every  Thurs.  to  Alexandria  via  Frin- 
disi  by  Austrian  Lloyd  steamer  (fares  from  Trieste  325  fr.,  220  fr.; 
from  Brindisi  275  fr.,  190  ft.).  Connection  both  ways  with  the 
Ostende  Express,  which  arrives  from  Vienna  at  7.10  a.m.  and  leaves 
Trieste  at  6.35  p. in.  Connection  at  Alexandria  in  both  directions 
with  vessels  of  the  same  company  plying  between  that  port  and 
Constantinople,  via  Port  Sa'id,  Jaffa,  Haifa,  Beirut,  Cyprus,  and 
the  coast  of  Asia  Minor. 

From  Constantinople  (72-83  his.  from  London ;  fares  ca.  11^. 
13s.  Id.  or  lSl.  10s.  and  8/.  2s.  6d.  or  9i.  4s.  8d.,  according  to  route) 
by  Austrian  Lloyd  (see  above)  every  week  during  the  season  (in 
summer  every  alternate  week)  via  Smyrna,  Mersina,  Alexandretta, 
Tripoli,  Beirut,  Haifa,  and  Jaffa  to  Fort  Sa'id  and  Alexandria  (fares 


TO  PALESTINE. 


7.  Route.    3 


from  Constantinople  to  Beirut  115  fl.,  79  fl.;  from  Alexandria  to 
Beirut  44  fl.,  30  fl.,  to  Jaffa  30  fl.,  20  fl.;  from  Beirut  to  Jaffa  15  fl., 
10  fl.);  by  the  Messageries  Maritimes  (p.  2)  every  alternate  week 
via  Smyrna,  Beirut,  and  Jaffa  to  Port  Sa'id  and  Alexandria  (fares 
from  Alexandria  to  Beirut  110  fr.,  80  fr.,  to  Constantinople  315  fr., 
220  fr. );  by  the  Compagnie  Eusse  de  Navigation  a  Vapeur  and  the 
Khedivial  Mail  Steamship  and  Graving  Co.  every  week  via  Smyrna 
and  the  Pirjeus  to  Alexandria,  with  connection  thence  to  Jaffa. 
Steamers  of  the  Comp.  Russe  also  run  to  Smyrna,  Beirut,  and  Jaffa. 

Subjoined  are  a  few  details  concerning  the  above-mentioned  European 
and  Egyptian  ports.  In  Alexandria,  Marseilles,  and  Trieste  the  steamers 
lie  to  at  the  piers,  and  this  is  also  sometimes  the  case  in  Constantinople. 
At  the  Italian  ports,  and  generally  at  Port  Sa'id,  the  passengers  are  taken 
out  to  the  steamers  by  small  boats.  The  fare  for  this  is  1-H/a  fr.,  in- 
cluding luggage,  but  a  bargain  should  be  struck  beforehand.  Order  is 
said  to  be  often  very  badly  maintained. 

Brindisi  (Grand  Bdtel  International,  at  the  harbour,  first-class,  R.  3-6, 
I>.  5  fr. ;  Albergo  d'Europa,  Corso  Umberto,  1/2  M.  from  the  rail,  station, 
>A  M.  from  the  harbour,  U.  &  L.  2>/2  fr  ,  A.  40  c.  ;  Alb.  Centrale,  Corso  Gari- 
baldi 67,  near  the  harbour,  R.  &  L.  2-3  fr.,  these  two  pretty  fair)  is  now 
a  town  of  17,000  inhab.  and  has  resumed  its  old  importance  as  a  starting- 
point  for  travellers  to  the  Orient.     Comp.  Baedeker's  Southern  Italy. 

Genoa  (Grand  Hdtel  de  Genet,  Via  Carlo  Felice  ;  Grand  HOtel  de  Savoie, 
opposite  the  main  rail,  station;  Grand  Hdtel  Isotla,  Via  Roma  7;  Eden 
Palace  Hotel,  at  the  Acqua  Sola  Park,  R.,  L.,  &  A.  at  these  four  from  5, 
1>.  5-6  fr. ;  H6t.  Bristol ;  H6t.  de  la  Ville;  Hit.  de  Londres,  at  the  rail,  station  ; 
HOt.  Continental,  Via  Cairoli;  Hotels  Smith,  de  France,  Central,  Mitropole) 
contains  155,900  inhab.  and  is  the  chief  seaport  of  Italy.  Visitors  should 
see  the  Columbus  Monument  and  the  palaces  in  the  Via  Balbi,  Via  Cairoli, 
and  Via  Garibaldi.  They  should  also  ascend  to  the  Castellaccio  ("View ; 
cable-tramway,  50  c).    Comp.  Baedeker's  Northern  Italy. 

Marseilles  (Grand  HOtel  du  Louvre  et  de  la  Paix,  Grand  HOtel  NoaUles 
et  Mitropole,  Grand  HOtel,  these  three  in  the  Rue  Koailles,  R.  from  4,  D. 
6  fr.  ;  Terminvs  Hotel,  at  the  rail,  station;  Nouvel  HOtel,  hotel  garni;  HOt. 
de  Geneve;  Hot.  Continental),  with  491,200  inhab.,  is  the  second  city  and 
chief  seaport  of  France.  La  Cannebiere,  beginning  at  the  Vieux  Port,  and  its 
prolongation,  the  Hue  NoaUles,  have  long  been  the  chief  pride  of  Marseilles. 
The  best  general  survey  of  the  city  is  obtained  from  the  church  of  Notre 
Dame  de  la  Garde  (cable-tramway).    Comp.  Baedeker's  Southern  France. 

Naples  (Bertolini's  Palace  Hotel,  R.  from  6,  D.  7  fr.,  HOtel  Bristol, 
Parker's  Hotel,  HOt.  Brilannique,  R.  from  4,  D.  5-6  fr.,  these  four  high  up, 
in  the  Corso  Vittorio  Emanuele  ;  Grand  HOtel,  by  the  sea;  Grande  Bretagne, 
Riviera  di  Chiaja,  Santa  Lucia,  Visuve,  lioi/al  des  Etrangers,  Victoria,  R. 
from  5  or  6,  D.  5-6  fr.),  with  547,500  inhab.,  is  the  most  populous  city 
in  Italy.  Its  environment  is  one  of  the  loveliest  parts  of  the  surface  of 
the  earth.  The  tourist  should  not  fail  to  walk  in  the  grounds  of  the 
Villa  Nazionale,  to  drive  along  the  Via  Tasso  and  the  Strada  Nuova  di 
Posilipo,  and  to  see  the  famous  sculptures  and  Pompeian  wall-paintings 
in  the  Museo  Nazionale.  The  finest  view  is  obtained  from  San  Martino 
(cable-tramway).  For  details  and  for  the  excursions  to  Pompeii,  Sorrento, 
Capri,  and  other  points,  see  Baedeker's  Southern  Italy. 

Venice  (HOtel  Royal-Danieli,  HOt.  de  VEurope,  Grand  HOtel,  Britannia, 
these  four  first-class,  R.  from  5,  1).  5-7  fr.:  Grand  Hotel  d'ltalie- Bauer; 
Grand  Canal  Hotel  et  Monaco,  near  the  Piuz/.a  San  Marco;  Angleterre,  Mitro- 
pole, Riva  degli  Schiavoni),  a  city  of  148,500  inhab.,  was  down  to  1797 
the  capital  of  a  powerful  republic  of  the  same  name.  The  railway-station 
is  at  the  N.W.  end  of  the  Canal  Grande;  gondola  hence  to  the  Piazzetta, 
near  which  most  of  the  hotels  lie,  1  fr.,  with  two  rowers  2  fr.    The  chief 


4    Route  1 .  APPROACHES  TO  PALESTINE. 


objects  of  interest  are  the  Piazza  di  San  Marco,  the  Church  of  San  Marco, 
the  Doges'  Palace,  and  the  Canal  Grande.  Com  p.  Baedeker* s  Northern  Italy. 
Trieste  (HOtel  de  la  Ville,  by  the  harbour.  E.  &  A.  2-12  kr  ;  JI6t. 
Delorme,  near  the  harbour,  R.  2-4  kr.,  L.  &  A.  i  kr.  20  h.  ;  Europa,  •/•*  ^- 
from  the  rail.  Station,  with  cafe,  R.  &  L.  from  2  kr. s  Aquila  Hera;  Zum 
Guten  Hirten),  the  chief  seaport  of  Austria,  with  145,0U)  inhabitants.  The 
railway-station  (restaurant)  lies  on  the  N.  side  of  the  town,  about  1  M.  from 
the  harbour  and  the  pier  of  the  Austrian  Lloyd  (cab  1  kr.  20  h.,  with  two 
horses  3  kr.).  A  pleasant  excursion,  taking  1/2  day,  may  be  made  to  the 
■N.W.  to  the  chateau  of  Miramar,  once  belonging  to  the  Emp.  Maximilian 
of  Mexico  (d.  1867),  to  whom  a  monument  has  been  erected  in  the  Piazza 
Giuseppina,  near  the  harbour.     Comp.  Baedeker's  Austria. 

Constantinople  (HOtels  Peru  Palace,  de  Londres,  Royal  et  d'AnglelcTre, 
and  Bristol,  all  four  by  the  garden  of  th"  P.  tits  Champs  and  of  the  first 
class,  R.  from  5,  D.  5-6  t'r.,  pens,  from  L5  fr. ;  Ildt.  Kroeckei;  Rue  Kab- 
rislan,  somewhat  lower  down,  K.  "> ,  P.  41/-' ,  pons.  12  fr. ;  HOI.  Con- 
tinental et  Frangait,  by  the  garden  of  the  Petlts- Champs,  R.  4-12,  1).  with 
wine  5,  inns.  11-18  fr. ;  H61.  Grande-  Bretagne,  in  the  Rue  Venedik,  a  side- 
street  in  the  same  quarter,  K.  from  2'/2,  D.  with  wine  3,  pens.  6-10  fr., 
unpretending;  Hot.  St.  Pitersbourg,  by  the  garden  of  the  Petits-Champs, 
an  unpretending  hotel  garni),  the  capital  of  Turkey,  is  a  city  of  about 
1,000,000  inhabitants.  It  includes  the  seaport  of  Galata  and  the  European 
suburb  of  Pera,  on  the  E.  side  of  the  Golden  Horn;  Stambul,  to  the  W. 
of  the  Golden  Horn;  and  Scutari,  on  the  coast  of  Asia.  The  hotels  are 
all  in  Pera,  1</2M.  from  the  railway-station  (carr.  i^hfr. )  and  1  Jl.  from 
the  landing-place  of  the  steamers  (earn.  2'/*i  disembarkation  2  fr.).  —  Pass- 
ing visitors  should  ascend  the.  Tower  of  Galata,  drive  across  the  New  Bridge 
to  the  Mosque  of  Vie  llayia  Sophia  in  Stambul,  visit  the  Museum,  walk 
through  the  Great  Bazaar  (with  dragoman),  and  take  a  steamer-trip  on  the 
Bosphorut.  Comp.  Baedekers  Konstantinopel  und  Kleinasien  (at  present  in 
German  only). 

Alexandria  (New  Khedinial  Hotel,  H6t.  Abbat;  Windsor  Hot.,  116!.  Conti- 
nental, H6t.  du  Canal  de  Suez,  HOt.  des  Voyageurs),  a  city  of  above  36  1,000 
inhab.,  including  46,000  Europeans,  is  the  chief  seaport  of  Kgypt.  Represen- 
tatives of  the  hotels  and  of  the  chief  tourist-agencies  meet  travellers  on  the 
steamer  and  relieve  them  of  all  trouble  in  passing  to  the  railway-station 
or  to  a  hotel  for  a  fee  of  15-20  piastres  (4-5  fr. ;  passport,  see  p.  xxiii). 
—  The  chief  sights  of  the  city  may  be  visited  by  carriage  in  half-a-day. 
From  the  Place  MMmel-Ali,  the  centre  of  the  European  quarter,  we  drive 
to  Pompeyys  Pillar,  90  ft.  high,  which  was  probably  erected  about  891  by 
the  emperor  Theodosius  to  commemorate  the  triumph  of  Christianity  in 
Alexandria,  and  during  the  middle  ages  was  believed  to  mark  the  tomb 
of  Pompey  the  Great.  Not  far  off,  in  the  hill  named  Kdm  esh-Shukafa^  is 
an  Egyptian  Buried  Place,  brought  to  light  in  1900  and  probably  dating 
from  the  second  century  of  our  era  (adm.  5  pi.).  The  Museum  of  Graeco- 
Roman  Antiquities,  consisting  mainly  of  objects  found  in  and  near  Alexandria, 
is  also  well  worth  a  visit  (open  9-12  &  3-5.30;  adm.  2  pi.,  free  on  Frid.; 
Closed  on  Thurs.l. 

The  voyage  from  Alexandria  to  Port  Sa'id  is  devoid  of  interest.  Most 
travellers  will  therefore  take  the  train  to  Ca fro  (Shepheard's  Hotel;  Savoy 
Hotel;  Hot.  Continental;  Hot.  d'Angleterre,  all  of  the  first  class)  and  go 
on  thence  to  Port  Said  by  railway. 

Port  Sa'id  (Savoy  Hotel;  Eastern  Exchange  Hotel;  H6tel  Continental), 
the  flourishing  town  at  the  N.  end  of  the  Sue/.  Canal,  contains  42,000  inhab., 
of  whom  12,000  are  Europeans.  At  the  harbour  is  a  lighthouse,  175  ft. 
high,  and  on  the.  W.  mole  is  a  colossal  statue,  by  E.  Freiuiet,  if  Ferdi- 
nand de  Lesseps  (1805-94),  the  builder  of  the  Suez  Canal.  —  For  further 
details  of  Alexandria,  Cairo,  and  Port  Sa'id,  see  Baedeker's  Egypt. 


I.  JERUSALEM  AND  ITS  ENVIRONS. 


Route  Page ! 

2.  Jaffa 6! 

3.  From  Jaffa  to  Jerusalem  : 

A.  By  Railway 11 

B.  By  Koad 15 

From  Jaffa  to  Jerusalem  via  Lydda  and  Beit'Ur  ....        18 

4.  Jerusalem 19 

History 24 

Topography  of  Ancient  Jerusalem 30 

a.  The  Western  and  Southern  Quarters 33 

Jaffa  Gate.   El-Kal'a  (Citadel) 33 

From  the  Jaffa  Gate  via  the  David  Street  to  the  Haram 
esh-Sherif,  33 ;  via  the  Street  of  the  Christians  to 
the  Church  of  the  Holy  Sepulchre,  33;  Great  Greek 
Monastery,  Tower  of  Goliath,  34. 

Armenian  and  Jewish  Quarters 34,  3j 

h.  The  Church  of  the  Holy  Sepulchre 35 

Outer  Court  (Quadrangle) 36 

Bell  Tower,  Fagade  .    .    .    .' 38 

Interior:  Rotunda  of  the  Sepulchre,  39;  Greek  Cath- 
edral, 42;  Prison  of  Christ,  Chapel  of  St.  Longinus, 
Chapel  of  the  Parting  of  the  Raiment,  Chapel  of  the 
Derision,  42;  Chapel  of  St.  Helena,  Golgotha,  43. 
Easter  Ceremonies 44 

c.  East  and  South  Sides  of  the  Church  of  the  Holy  Sepulchre    45 
Miiristan,  45;  Church  of  the  Redeemer,  46;  Bazaar 
Streets  (old  Chief  Bazaar),  Abyssinian  Monastery,  47; 
Monastery  of  the  Copts,  48. 

d.  From  the  Gate  of  St.  Stephen  to  the  Church  of  the  Holt/ 

Sepulchre.    Via  Dolorosa 48 

Church  of  St.  Anne  .    .    . 48 

e.  The  Haram  esh-Sherif  (Place  of  the  Temple)   ....      50 


The  Aksa  Mosque     ...".• 58 

Substructions  of  the  Haram 01 

Double  Gate,    Solomon's  Stables,    Gi;   Single  Gate,  Triple 

Gate,  62. 

Enclosing  Wall  (interior  side) "2 

Golden  Gate,  62;    Throne  of  Solomon,   Bab  el-Asbat,  Bab 

Ilitta,  Bab  el-fAtem,  Kubbet  Shekif  es-Sakhra,  63. 

Walk  round  the  Outside  of  the  Wall  '. 63 

Serai,  Suk  el-Kattanin,  Hammam  esh-Shifa,  Wilson's  Arch, 

Bab  es-Silseleh','64;  Wailing  Place  of  the  Jews,  Barclay's 


liAicDKKKit's  Palestine  and  Syria.    4th  Edit. 


6     Route  2. 


JAFFA. 


Route  Paige 

Gate.  65;  Robinson's  Arch,  South  Wall,  66;   East  Side 
(Golden  Gate),  North  Part  (Pool  of  Israel),  67. 
Western  and  Southern  Suburbs 


/'• 


67 


72 


Jaffa  Suburb:  Maniilla  Pool,  Russian  Buildings,  68; 

Arab  Protestant  Church  of  St.  Paul,  68. 
South -Western  Suburb:   Birket  es-Sultan,    German 

Colony  of  the  Temple,  69.  —  Zion  Suburb:  Cccna- 

culum,  Dormitio,  Gate  of  Zion,  70-72. 
Environs  of  Jerusalem 

a.  The  Mount  of  Olives 72 

Tomb  of  the  Virgin,  73;  Garden  of  Gethsemane,  75; 

Viri  Galilffii,  Russian  Buildings,  76;  Chapel  of  the 
Ascension,    77;   Latin  Buildings  (Church   of  the 
Creed,   Church  of  the  Paternoster),  78;  Tombs  of 
the  Prophets,  79. 
Bethphage 79 

b.  The  Valley  of  the  Kidron  and  the  Valley  of  Hinnom   .      79 

Tomb  of  Absalom,  80;  Grotto  of  St.  James,  Pyra- 
mid of  Zacharias,  81 ;  Village  of  Siloah,  Fountain 
of  the  Virgin,  82;  Pool  of  Siloam,  Job's  Well,  83. 
Valley  of  Hinnom:  Mount  of  Evil  Counsel,  Field  of 
Blood,  84. 

c.  North  Side  of  the  City 85 

Damascus  Gate,  Cotton  Grotto,  85;  Grotto  of  Jeremiah, 

86;  Dominican  Monastery  (Church  of  St.  Stephen), 
Tombs  of  the  Kings,  87. 
Tombs  of  the  Judges,  89. 


2.    Jaffa. 

Arrival.  The  steamer  casts  anchor  outside  the  rock-girt  harbour.  The 
hotels  and  the  tourist-offices  named  below  send  small  boats  to  the  ship, 
and  the  traveller  should  use  these,  rejecting  the  offers  of  all  other  boat- 
men,  porters,  and  dragomans.  The  charge  is  5-6  fr.  a  head,  including 
luggage  (upon  which  a  sharp  eye  should  be  kept)  and  the  drive  to  the 
hotel.  In  rough  weather,  the  disembarkation  is  difficult,  as  the  N.  channel 
has  silted  up  and  the  deeper  N.W.  channel  is  so  narrow  that  the  passage 
between  the  reefs  is  dangerous;  as  much  as  20  fr.  is  then  sometimes  de- 
manded from  each  person.  —  Passport  and  Customs  Duties,  see  pp.xxiii,  xxiv. 
The  boats  land  in  front  of  the  Custom  Mouse,  which  lies  at  the  S.  corner  of 
the  harbour.  The  various  Steamboat  Offices  (Egyptian,  Russian,  Austrian, 
French,  Italian)  stand  on  the  quay  to  the  N.  —  The  Railway  Station  (Oare; 
PI.  E,  1).,  in  the  N.E.  part,  of  the  town,  is  about  I1/2  M.  from  the  harbour 
and  1/2  M.  from  the  German  Colony. 

Hotels  (conip.  p.  xvi;  bargaining  advisable;  previous  notice  desirable 
during  the  height  of  the  travelling-season).  —  Jerusalem  Hotkl  (PI.  a,  HI; 
landlord,  Hardegg,  a  German),  in  the  German  Colony;  Hotel  i>u  Pako 
(PI.  b,  B  1;  landlords,  Hall  Brothers),  adjoining  the  preceding;  pension  at 
these  12'/*  fr.,  for  a  prolonged  stay  10  fr.,  after  the  season  8  fr.  (wine  extra). 


Practical  Notea. 


JAFFA. 


2.  Route.    7 


Ho'-tet.  Kaminitz  (PL.  c:  B,  1),  Rue  Boustrous  (p.  10);  Frank's  IIotki.  (PI.  d, 
BI5  German  landlord),  in  the  German  Colony,  with  restaurant. 

Tourist  Offices.  Cook  it  Son  (PI.  1 ;  B,  1),  opposite  the  Jerusalem  Hotel ; 
Clarck,  near  the  Hotel  du  Pare  (p.  6) ;  Hamburg  American  Line,  at  P.  Breisch's 
(see  helow),  on  the  quay;  Dr.  Immannel  Benzinger  (PI.  2;  B,  1),  at  the 
entrance  to  the  German  Colony ;  Agence  Lubin ,  in  the  Hotel  du  Pare  (p.  6). 

Horses  and  Carriages  at  Kappms  and  Schanz's.  Saddle-horse,  1  fr. 
per  hr.  Carriage,  per  drive,  1  beshlik  (3'/2  pi.);  V2  day  10,  whole  day 
20  fr. :  to  Jerusalem,  see  p.  15;  to  Gaza,  40  fr.  (there  and  back  70  fr.)"; 
to  Haifa,  see  pp.  225  and  234.  Carriages  and  horses  are  best  obtained 
through  the  hotels  or  tourist  offices. 

Post  Offices.  Turkish  (PI.  29;  B,  1),  Rue  Boustrous  (p.  10);  International 
Telegraph,  in  the  Post  Office.  The  foreign  post-offices  are  all  on  the 
Qtt&l  :  Austrian  (PI.  32;  A,  1),  German  (PI.  31 ;  A,  1),  adjoining  it  on  the 
S.W.,  Russian  (PI.  33;  A,  2),  to  the  S.W.,  French  (PI.  30;  A,  1)  to  the  N.E. 

"Vice-Consulates.  British  (PI.  9;  A,  1,  2) ,  J.  Falanga;  United  States, 
HarJcgg,  of  the  Jerusalem  Hotel  (p.  6) ;  French  (PI.  8;  B,  2),  Qui* ;  Russian, 
von  Pipper;  Austrian  (PI.  10;  A,  1,2);  German,  Roessler;  Italian,  Alonzo; 
Dutch,  Portalis;   Spanish,  Carpani. 

Banks.  English  Bank  of  Palestine  (PI.  4b  ;  A,  2) ;  German  Bank  of  Palestine 
(PI.  4a;  A,  1),  Credit  Lyonnai*  (PI.  3;  A,  1);  Banque  Ottomans  (PI.  B.O. ;  A,  2). 

Physicians:  Dr.  Keith  (English);  Dr.  Lorch  (German);  Dr.  Lin  (French); 
Dr.  Saad,  quarantine  physician  (with  German  diploma).  —  Dentist,  K.  Lorch. 
—  Chemists,  I'aultts,   Wolfer.  <f;  Co.,  in  the  German  Colony  (p.  10). 

European  Firms.  Commission  &  Forwarding  Agents:  Aberle  <{•  Co.,  in 
the  Gaza  Road  (PI.  A,  2);  P.  Breisch,  A.  Singer'"*  Successors,  Alonzo  &  Son, 
all  on  the  quay.  —  Travelling  Requisites  :  Rabinowitz  Brothers,  Gaza  Road; 
Chr.  Beck,  Rue  Boustrous;  C.  Besserer,  saddler,  at  the  station.  —  Provisions  : 
Bekmesian,  Rue  Boustrous;  Nahas,  Jerusalem  Road  (PI.  A,  B,  2).  —  Wine: 
Sarona  &  Jaffa  Co.  (German),  Gaza  Road;  Carmel  Oriental  Co.  (wines  from 
the  Jewish  Colonies).  —  Q.  Egger  supplies  bulbs  and  seeds  of  Syrian  plants 
for  exportation.  —  Photographer,  Sabundji. 

Benevolent  Institutions.  Church  Missionary  Sociely^s  Station  with  a 
hospital  and  two  schools  for  boys;  English  School  for  girls  (PI.  17;  A,  2); 
American  Orphanage;  French  Hospital  of  St.  Louis  (PI.  22;  A,  2),  conducted 
by  the  Sisters  of  St.  Joseph;  German  Hospital  and  School,  see  p.  10;  Convent 
and  Schools  of  the  Frtres  des  Ecoles  ChritUnnes  (PI.  15;  A,  2);  Franciscan 
Convent  and  School  for  boys  (Casa  Nuova ;  PI.  7,  A  2) ;  School  of  the  Sisters 
of  St.  Joseph  (PI.  16;  A,  2),  for  girls. 

Jaffa  or  Yd  fa,  Greek  Joppa,  the  seaport  of  Jerusalem  and  the  chief 
town  of  a  Karl  a.  of  the  Liwa  of  Jerusalem  (comp.  p.  Ivii),  contains 
about  45,00i)  inhab.,  including  30,000  Muslims,  10,000  Christians, 
and  4000  Jews.  The  town  has  greatly  increased  within  trie  last  few 
decades,  principally  in  consequence  of  the  numerous  pilgrims  who 
flock  hero  (ca.  20,000  yearly).  Its  trade  is  also  considerable.  The 
chief  exports  are  oranges  and  other  fruit,  sesame,  olive-oil,  wine,  and 
wool.  The  chief  imports  are  cotton  goods,  cloth,  coffee,  rice,  sugar, 
and  tobacco.  In  1904  the  port  was  entered  and  cleared  by  509  steamers 
of  759.801  tons'  burden,  and  by  1081  sailing-vessels  of  J  6,322  tons. 

History.  Jaffa  was  anciently  a  Phoenician  colony  in  the  land  of  the 
Philistines.  The  meaning  of  the  ancient,  name  Japho  is  doubtful;  but  the 
Hebrews  translated  it  'the  beautiful1.  According  to  an  ancient  myth  An- 
dromeda, the  daughter  of  Cepheus  and  Joppa  (daughter  of  Mollis),  is  said 
to  have  been  chained  to  the  rocks  here,  in  order  that  she  might  be  devoured 
by  a  huge  sea-monster,  but  was  released  by  Perseus.  The  prophet  Jonah, 
too,  is  said  to  have  just  quitted  Joppa  when  he  was  swallowed  by  the  whale 
(Jonah  i.  3).  Throughout  the  Roman  period,  and  even  down  to  the  Middle 
Ages,  the  chains  were  shown  with  which  Andromeda  was  bound  to  the 
rocks  of  the  harbour.     So,  too,   the   huge  bones  of  some  marine  monster 


8    Route  2. 


JAFFA. 


History. 


were  long  an  object  of  curiosity  here.  Jaffa  is  mentioned  as  a  fortress 
in  the  list  of  cities  overthrown  by  Thutmosis  III.  (p.  Ixxvi).  In  tine  days 
of  Solomon  it  was  the  port  for  Jerusalem,  to  which  Hiram,  King  of  Tyre, 
undertook  to  send  timber  from  Lebanon  'in  floats1,  for  the  building  of  the 
Temple  (2  Chron.  ii.  16;  comp.  Ezra  iii.  1).  In  the  inscription  relating 
to  the  victorious  campaign  of  Sennacherib,  the  town  is  called  Ya-ap-pu. 
The  tomb-inscription  of  Eshmunazar,  dating  from  the  beginning  of  the 
3rd  cent.  B.C.,  mentions  Jaffa  as  given  to  Sidon  along  with  Dor  by  one 
of  the  Ptolemies.  Jaffa  was  definitively  brought  under  the  Jewish  yoke  by 
the  Maccabees  (I  Mace.  x.  74  et  seq.).  Christianity  was  introduced  here  at  an 
early  period  (Acts  ix.  30,  etc.).  Before  the  Jewish  war  Joppa  was  captured 
and  destroyed  by  the  Roman  general  Cesfius;  it  was  then  rebuilt,  but  was 
soon  again  destroyed  by  Vespasian  as  being  a  haunt  of  pirates.  Several 
bishops  of  Joppa  are  mentioned  as  having  attended  various  church  synods. 
The  bishopric  was  restored  by  the  Crusaders,  and  the  town  raiseil  to  the 
rank  of  a  county  (1099).  In  1120  the  district  of  Joppa  came  into  the  pos- 
session of  the  Knights  of  St.  John.  The  town  was  captured  and  destroyed 
by  Melik  el-'Adil,  brother  of  Saladin,  in  1187,  and  by  Safeddin  in  1191, 
recaptured  by  Richard  Cceur-de-Lion,  taken  in  1197  by  Melik  el-'Adil, 
restored  to  the  Christians  in  1204,  and  finally  destroyed  in  1267  by  Beibars. 
Towards  the  end  of  the  17th  cent,  the  importance  of  Jaffa  began  to  revive, 
and  from  that  period  dates  the  construction  of  the  quay.  In  1799  the  place 
was  taken  by  the  French  army  under  Kleber. 

The  old  town  lies  on  the  sea-coast,  on  the  brow  of  a  rocky  hill 
115  ft.  in  height.  The  houses  are  built  of  tuffstone.  The  streets  are 
generally  very  narrow  and  dusty,  and  after  the  slightest  fall  of  rain 
exceedingly  dirty.  From  the  landing-place  (De"barcadere ;  PI.  A,  2 ) 
the  chief  business-street  leads  along  the  quay  to  its  N.E.  end  and 
then  bends  to  the  right.  A  few  paces  farther  on  is  a  lane  leading 
to  the  left  to  a  khan.  Traversing  this  khan  and  passing  along  the  N. 
side  of  the  barracks  (Caserne;  PI.  A,  1),  we  reach  the  Serai  (p.  10). 
In  a  straight  direction  we  reach  the  busy  Arab  Bazaar  (PL  A,  2), 
where  the  traveller  will  have  an  opportunity  of  noticing  the  purely 
Semitic  type  of  the  inhabitants.  The  Mosque  (PL  26 ;  A,  2)  to  the  left 
is  of  no  interest;  opposite  its  entrance  we  see  an  elegant  Fountain, 
surrounded  by  ancient  columns.  The  Latin  Hospice  (^Casa  Nuova; 
PL  7,  A  2)  was  founded  in  1654,  from  which  period  dates  the  tradi- 
tion that  it  occupies  the  site  of  the  House  of  Simon  the  Tanner 
(Acts  ix.  43);  but  the  site  of  Simon's  house  is  now  pointed  out  in 
an  insignificant  mosque  near  the  Fanar,  or  lighthouse  (PI. 28;  A,  2), 
on  the  S.  side  of  the  town,  where,  however,  the  view  is  the  sole 
attraction  (fee  1  piastre). 

The  new  quarters,  to  the  E.,  N.E.,  and  S.  of  the  old  town,  make 
a  more  favourable  impression.  The  Public  Garden  (PL  24;  A,  2) 
reached  through  the  bazaar,  with  its  clock-tower  and  several  Arabian 
coffee-houses,  is  the  starting-point  of  three  great  roads :  in  front 
(S.E.)  is  the  road  to  Jerusalem  (p.  16);  on  the  right  (S.W.)  that  to 
Gaza;  on  the  left  that  to  Nabulus  (p.  10).  The  Jerusalem  Roau 
leads  to  the  S.E.  through  the  new  suburbs,  then  between  lofty 
cactus-hedges.  After  10  min.  we  reach  a  handsome  Sebil  or  fountain, 
founded  by  Alu  Nebbut,  a  former  pasha,  who  is  buried  here.  The 
toad  now  forks,  the  turning  to  the  right  leading  to  Jerusalem,  while 
that  to  the  left  brings  us  in  5  min.  to  the  Hussian  settlement,  where 


\JL-  d^r 


■^-yv-iK 


1^( 


h 


( rata  Road. 


JAFFA. 


2.  Route.    9 


we  ;are  shown  the  site  of  the  house  of  Tabitha,  and  her  rock-tomb 
(Actts  ix.  36).  The  top  of  the  church-tower  affords  an  admirable 
view  of  Jaffa  and  the  Plain  of  Sharon,  extending  in  clear  weather 
to  Mt.  Carmel.  —  The  Gaza  Road  (PI.  A,  2)  passes  through  the 
S.  Suburb.  On  this  road,  to  the  left,  are  the  English  Protestant 
cemetery  and  the  English  school  for  girls  (PI.  17;  A,  2);  opposite, 
on  the  right,  the  French  hospital  (PI.  22;  A,  2);  farther  on,  to  the 
left,  are  the  schools  of  the  Freres  des  Ecoles  Chre'tienncs  (PI.  15; 
A,  %)  and  of  the  Sisters  of  St.  Joseph  (PL  16;  A,  2);  to  the  right 


j  £■.•>■■ 


.  ?"S3     i.OV  -fun   ttr'.:!.  \>      .    '    /  ' .. 


JhfTA 

1 :  14r.50O 


raprsl  un pLxi i  oli^uial  (in  D'"Saad 

Tourist  Agencies:  1.  Cook,  B,  1 ;  2.  Benzinger,  B,  i.  —  Banks:  3.  Crddit 
Lyonnais,  A,  1;  B.O.  Banque  Ottomane,  A,  2;  4a.  German  Bank  of  Pales- 
tine, A,  1 ;  4b.  English  Bank  of  Palestine,  A,  2.  —  5.  Passport  Bureau,  A,  2. 
—  6.  liar  hour  Master,  A,  1.  —  7.  Casa  Nuova,  A,  2.  —  Vice  -  Consulates : 
8.  French,  B,  1;  I).  British,  A,  1,  2;  10.  Austrian,  A,  i,  2.  —  Convents: 
11.  Franciscan,  A,  2;  12.  Greek,  A,  2;  13.  Armenian,  A,  2.  —  Schools: 
15.  Freres  des  Ecoles  Chretiennes,  A,  2;  16.  Sisters  of  St.  Joseph  (for  girls), 
A,  2;  17.  English  (for  girls),  A,  2;  18.  German  Temple  Sect,  B,  1.  — 
Churcfies:  19.  St.  George's  (Greek),  A,  2;  20.  German  Protestant,  B,  1.  — 
21.  Government  Building  (Serai;  B,  1).  —  Hospitals :  22.  French,  A,  2;  23.  Ger- 
man, B,  1.  —  24.  Public  Garden,  A,  2.  —  Mosques:  25.  El-Bahr,  A,  1 ;  26. 
El-Mahniildiyeh,  A,  2;  'A.  Es-Serai,  A,  2.  —  28.  Lighthouse,  A,  2.  —  Post  and 
Telegraph  Offices:  29.  Turkish,  B,  1 ;  SO.  French,  A,  1 ;  31.  German,  A,l; 
32.  Austrian,  A,  1;  33.  Russian,  A,  2.  —  31.  Quarantine  Station,  A,  1. 


10    Route 


SAW  ON  A. 


are  the  Greek  church  (PL  19;  A,  2)  and  the  Jewish  and  Armenian 
cemeteries,  and  then  the  English  mission-house  and  hospital.  To 
the  AV.  of  this  road  is  the  weli  (p.  lxxiv)  of  Sheikh  Ibrdlum  (line 
\iew  of  the  town).  —  The  Rue  Boustrous  (road  to  Nabulus  )  leads 
to  the  N.E.,  passing  the  Barracks  (Caserne;  PI.  A,  1),  on  the  left, 
and  the  Serai,  or  government-building  (PL  21;  B,  1),  on  the  right. 
Beyond  are  the  Turkish  Post  and  Telegraph  Office  (PL  29;  B,  2)  and 
the  Hotel  KaminiU  (p.  7).  A  few  stops  farther  on  a  road  to  the 
left  leads  to  the  Railway  Station  (Gare;  PL  B,  1)  and  to  the  ucw  N. 
suburb,  which  is  inhabited  mainly  by  Jews  and  Mohammedans. 

The  main  road  straight  on  leads  through  orange-gardens  and 
past  a  fountain  with  an  Arabic  inscription  (left)  to  the  pleasant- 
looking  houses  of  the  German  Colony  (t'olonie  allemande ;  PL  B,  1). 
On  the  right,  at  the  entrance  to  the  colony,  are  the  chapel  and 
mission-house  of  the  English  Mission  to  the  Jews,  the  Jerusalem 
Hotel,  the  Hotel  du  Pare,  and  Frank's  Hotel  (comp.  pp.  6,7).  Beyond 
the  last  stands  the  new  German  Protestant  Church  (PL  20;  B,  1). 
The  colony  was  originally  founded  in  1856  by  American  settlers,  but 
was  afterwards  abandoned,  and  purchased  in  1868  by  the  members 
of  the  'German  Temple'  sect,  numbering  about  350  souls.  They 
possess  a  school  (PL  18;  B,  1)  and  a  hospital  (PL  23;  B,  1). 

The  constitution  of  the  free  religious  community  of  the  'Temple''  or 
'Friends  of  Jerusalem'  in  1860  was  the  result  of  a  religious  movement  in 
Wurtemberg,  mainly  stimulated  by  If.  and  Chr.  Hoffmann.  Starting  from 
the  principle  that  the  task  of  Christianity  is  to  embody  the  Kingdc  m  of 
God  on  earth  ,  they  came  to  the  conclusion  that  a  really  Christian  social 
life  was  impossible  on  the  basis  of  the  current  ideas  of  the  Trinity,  the 
Divinity  of  Christ,  etc.  On  the  contrary,  they  derived  their  religions  and 
social  programme  from  the  Old  Testament  prophecies.  They  accordingly 
considered  it  to  be  their  task,  first  of  all  to  erect  the  ideal  Christian  com- 
munity in  the  'Land  of  Promise'  and  from  this  spot  to  begin  regenerating 
the  church  and  social  life  of  Europe.  The  first  colony  was  founded  in 
Haifa  in  1868,  and  the  second  almost  simultaneously  in  Jaffa.  The  'Teaiple' 
numbers  some  1200  members  in  four  colonies  and  has  unquestionably  done 
much  to  promote  the  colonization  of  the  country. 

About  1^2  M.  to  the  N.E.  of  the  town,  on  the  road  to  Nabulus, 
lies  Sarona  (see  Map,  p.  8),  another  colony  of  the  'Temple'.  The 
plain  of  Sharon,  which  extends  along  the  seaboard  between  Joppa 
and  Caesarea,  was  famed  in  ancient  times  for  its  luxuriant  fertility 
and  pastures  (Is.  Ixv.  10).  Excellent  soil  is  found  at  a  depth  of 
1^2  or  2  ft.  beneath  the  snrface  of  the  sand,  and  water  is  found 
everywhere.  Vines  thrive  admirably  (comp.  p.  liii).  Apicultun  also 
is  pursued  with  success. 

A  beautiful  excursion  may  he  made  along  the  Nabulus  road  as  :'ar  as 
the  JVahr  el-'Avjd  (carriage  there  and  back,  in  2-3  hrfl.,  10  fr.;  sail-boat, 
V2  day,  15  fr.  or  upwards  according  to  the  number  of  passengers).  This 
iiver,  next  to  the  Jordan  thr.  largest  in  Palestine,  rises  ne:ir  Rdi  eVMnt 
about  10  M.  to  the  N.K.  of  Jaffa.',  and  although  its  fall  is  very  trifling 
drives  a  number  of  mills.  Near  ilulebbis,  close  by,  is  a  Jewish  colony 
( Pelah  Tiktceh).    Return  on  horseback  along  the  coast  (see  Map). 

From  Jaffa  to  Haifa,  carriage-road,  see  p.  231. 


-  j«+^W. 


or-  j 


'O  Pf 


3.  From  Jaffa  to  Jerusalem. 

A.  By  Bailwayvr-'  'Motor 
One  train  daily  in  each  direction   in  3'/2  l»r3. 


11 


yo  pv 


54  M.  One  train  daily  in  eacli  direction  in  3'/2  l»r.«.  Fares,  1st  class 
70  pi.  20  pa.  (or  15  fr.  gold),  2nd  class  25  piastres.  In  these  fares  one 
mejmi  =  20  piastres,  one  napoleon  =  94  pi.  20  pa.,  11.  —  124  pi.,  1  Turkish 
pound  a  108  pi.  —  The  railway-carriages  are  not  very  comfortable;  ladies 
should  always  travel  first-class. 

The  line  skirts  the  orange-gardens  in  the  environs  of  Jaffa  with 
Sarona  to  the  left,  then  turns  to  the  S.E.  and  crosses  the  plain  of 
Sharon,  following  the  depression  of  the  Wudi  el-Misernra.  Towards 
the  E.  the  bluish  mountains  of  Jiuljea  come  gradually  into  view. 
On  the  right,  close  by,  are  the  villages  of  (I1/;}  M.)  Yunlr  and  Beit 
Dejan;  on  the  left,  Sdkiyeh,  then,  farther  to  the  E.,  Kafr'Ana(Ono, 
Nebcin,  xi.  ;>5)  and  El-Yeliudtyeh,  with  the  German  Temple  colony 
of  Wilhelma  (190'2).  The  lino  passes  through  (8  M.)  Sdftriyeh  (per- 
haps Sariphaea,  which  was  an  episcopal  see  in  530). 

1 13/4  M.  Lydda  (Arabic  Ludd).  —  The  Station  lies  iyt  M.  to  the  S. 
of  the  town,  near  St.  George's  Church,  on  the  road  to  Rami  eh  (see  below). 

History.  L6d  is  first  mentioned  after  the  Exile  (Ezra  ii.  33;  Neh. 
vii.  37).  It  became  of  some  importance  in  the  period  of  the  Maccabees 
(Jos.  Ant.  xx.  6,  2),  and  in  145  B.C.  it  was  detached  from  .Samaria  and 
included  in  Judaea  (1  Mace.  xi.  34,  etc.,  where  it  is  named  Lydda).  Under 
the  Romans  it  was  the  capital  of  a  district  of  Judrea,  and  it  was  the  seat. 
of  nn  early  Christian  community  (Acts  ix.  32).  It  was  afterwards  famed 
for  its  learned  rabbinical  school.  The  bishops  of  Lydda  are  mentioned  at 
an  early  period,  and  though  the  town  was  for  a  time  called  Diospolis,  its 
ancient  name  was  retained  in  (he  episcopal  lists.  In  415  an  ecclesiastical 
council  was  held  atfLydda.  at  which  Pelagius  defended  himself.  The 
Crusaders  again  founded  a  bishopric  there  in  1099.  In  1271  it  was  sacked 
by  the  Mongols,  and  since  that  period  it  has  never  recovered  its  former 
importance, 

The  chief  attraction  at  Ly  Ida  is  the  Church  of  St.  George,  on 
the  S,  side  of  the  town.  The  key  is  kept  by  the  sacristan  of  the 
Greek  convent  (fee  5pi.). 

Lydda  is  mentioned  at  a  very  early  period  in  connection  with  St. 
George.  According  to  tradition,  Mohammed  declared  that  at  the  Last  Day 
Christ  would  slay  Antichrist  at  the  gate  of  Lydda.  This  is  doubtless  a 
distorted  version  of  the  story  of  St.  George  and  the  dragon.  Over  the 
tomb  of  St.  George  at  Lydda  a  church  stood  as  early  as  the  6th  century. 
In  the  following  century  this  was  destroyed  by  the  Persians,  hut  it  was 
again  built  and  existed  until  its  second  destruction  by  Khalif  Hakim 
Biamrillah  in  1010.  Again  rebuilt,  it  was  once  more  destroyed  in  1099  by 
the  Mohammedans  in  order  not  to  interfere  with  the  defence  of  the  town 
against  the  Crusaders.  The  latter  found  a  'magnificent  tomb' here  and  in 
the  second  half  of  the  12th  cent,  erected  a  new  church  near  the  site  of 
the  old  one,  which,  however,  was  destroyed  with  the  town  by  Saladin  in 
1191.  A  church  is  again  spoken  of  here  in  the  middle  of  the  14th  cent., 
but  was  in  ruins  at  the  beginning  of  the  15th.  The  site  of  the  original 
Byzantine  church  was  then  occupied  by  a  mosque.  Since  1870  this  building 
has  been  in  the  possession  of  the  Greeks,  who  have  restored  it.  (Revue 
Archeologiquo  xix.  223  et  seq.) 

Of  the  present  building  the  apses  and  a  few  arches  and  pilasters 
on  the  W.  side  belonged  to  the  older  church,  built  about  the  middle 
of  the  12th  century.    The  square  buttresses  of  the  nave  are  adorned 


l<s    Route  3. 


ER-RAMLEH. 


From  Jaffa 


with  small  columns.  The  ceiling  has  been  restored  with  little  taste, 
while  the  modern  pilasters  are  distinguishable  from  the  ancient  at  a 
glance.    Below  the  altar  is  the  crypt,  which  has  been  restored. 

From  Lydda  the  train  proceeds  to  tlieS.E.,  passing  'Annilheh  on 
the  left. 

l31/-2  M.  Er-Ramleh.  —  The  Kailway  Station  is  about  »/«  M.  to  the 
E.  of  the  town,  near  the  Jerusalem  road.  From  the  station  to  the  'Tower 
of  Ramleir,  past  ReinhardCs  Hotel,  V2  hr.  —  Accommodation.  Rkinhari>t"s 
Hotel,  well  spoken  of,  pens.  10  fr.  Franciscan  Convent,  on  the  tra- 
ditional site  of  the  house  of  Joseph  of  Arimathiea  (Matth.  xxvii.  59).  —  As 
there  is  only  one  train  daily  (comp.  p.  11),  those  who  wish  to  visit  Ramleh 
and  go  on  by  railway  without  passing  the  night  there  must  drive  from 
Jaffa  to  Ramleh.  Those  coming  in  the  opposite  direction  must  order  a 
carriage  from  Jaffa  in  advance  to  meet  them  at  Ramleh. 

History.  The  tradition  that  Ramleh  occupies  the  site  of  the  Arima- 
thea  of  the  New  Testament  is  a  fabrication  of  the  13th  century.  The  town 
was  founded  in  71G  by  the  Omayyad  khalif  Suleiman,  the  son  of  fAbd  el- 
Melik.  The  truth  of  this  statement  is  confirmed  by  the  facts  that  the 
name  of  the  town  is  of  purely  Arabic  origin  (ramleh  signifying  'sand'), 
and  that  we.  find  the  name  'Ramula'  applied  to  the  place  for  the  first  time 
in  the  year  870.  The  place  soon  became  prosperous  ,  and  was  perhaps 
even  larger  than  Jerusalem.  Christians  lived  at  Ramleh  and  had  churches 
here  before  the  time  of  the  Crusades.  In  1009  a  bishopric  of  Lydda  anil 
Ramleh  was  founded.  In  1177  the  town  was  much  damaged  by  a  fire. 
Ramleh  was  twice  captured  by  Saladin,  and  in  12G6  it  was  finally  wrested 
from  the  Franks  by  Beibars.  The  town  continued  to  enjoy  a  share  of  its 
former  prosperity  down  to  the  close  of  the  15th  century.  Napoleon  I.  once 
had  his  headquarters  at  Ramleh  andoccupied  a  room  in  the  Franciscan  con- 
vent, which  is  still  shown. 

Er-Ramleh  contains  6500  inhab.,  about  2000  of  whom  are 
Christians,  chiefly  of  the  Greek  faith.  Schools  are  maintained 
by  the  Church  Missionary  Society  and  by  the  Franciscans  and  the 
Sisters  of  St.  Joseph.  There  is  also  an  Armenian  Convent.  The 
town  is  wretched  and  has  no  trade.  The  orchards  around  Ramleh 
are  luxuriant;  there  are  also  a  few  palm-trees.  The  fields  yield  rich 
crops,  and  are  enclosed  by  impenetrable  cactus-hedges,  in  which 
numerous  wild  pigeons  build  their  nests.  The  climate  is  mild, 
pleasanter  than  that  of  Jerusalem,  and  more  healthy  than  that  of  Jaffa. 

On  the  E.  side  of  the  town  is  the  Chief  Mosque  (Jdrni'  el-Kebir), 
once  a  church  of  the  Crusaders  (12th  cent.).  Unbelievers  are  not 
always  permitted  to  visit  it,  but  the  effect  of  the  all-powerful 
bakhshish  may  be  tried  (5  pi. ;  shoes  must  be  taken  off). 

On  the  W.  side  is  a  small  minaret,  which  was  probably  once  a.  Chris- 
tian bell-tower.  The  principal  entrance  was  on  the  W.  side,  but  the  W. 
front  has  now  been  covered  by  masonry,  the  entrance  is  on  the  N.  side.  The 
mosque  is  about  55  yds.  long  by  27  wide.  The  nave  is  loftier  than  the  two 
aisles. "from  which  it  has  been  divided  by  two  rows  of  columns  running 
from  W.  to  E.  Each  row  has  seven  arches  ,  a  plain  cornice,  and  seven 
pointed'windows.    The  windows  in  the  aisles  are  also  pointed. 

The  most  remarkable  monument  is  the  *Tower  of  Ramleh,  or 
Jami'  el-Abyrtd,  the  'white  mosque'  (to  the  S.W.  of  the  town). 

The  mosque  was  built  by  the  founder  of  the  town.  The  building 
was  restored  in  the  time  of  Salalin  (1190),  and  Sultan  Beibars  also  erected 
a  dome  and  a  minaret  here  (l'J68).  An  Arabic  inscription  over  the  door 
of  the  mosque  dates  from  the  period  of  the  Mameluke  prince,  Nasir  Abul- 


to  Jerusalem. 


KR-KAMLEII. 


3.  Route.    13 


Faili  Mohammed  ibn  Kilaiin  (1318),  but  many  authorities  ascribe  the  tower 
to  the  CrusaAerfl.  A  later  Mohammedan  tradition  is  to  the  effect  that  forty 
companions  of  the  prophet,  or,  if  the  Christian  version  is  to  be,  believed, 
forty  Christian  martyrs,  repose  in  the  subterranean  vaults  of  the  mosque. 

The  entrance  to  the  vaults  is  now  about  40  paces  to  the  S.E.  of 
tie  portal  of  the  tower;  the  whole  of  the  ground  here  was  under- 
mined with  similar  chambers.  (Care  should  be  taken  when  walking 
about.)  On  each  side  of  the  great  quadrangle  formed  by  the  build- 
ing there  were  ten  recesses,  and  the  gateway  by  which  we  now  enter 
the  court  formed  the  chief  entrance  and  was  beautifully  decorated. 
In  the  centre  of  the  court  are  remains  of  a  fountain.  In  the  17th  cent, 
a  hospital  or  lunatic  asylum  (muristan)  was  established  here.  — 
The  pointed  doorway  and  the  elegant  little  windows  of  the  five 
stoTies,  especially  on  the  S.  side,  are  remarkably  interesting.  At 
the  four  corners  of  the  tower  are  slender  buttresses.  The  top  is 
reached  by  110  steps.  The  upper  part  of  the  tower  (added  in  1652} 
tapers,  uid  here  we  enter  a  kind  of  gallery.  The  ascent  is  recom- 
mended for  the  sake  of  the  admirable  *Vibw  from  the  top. 

Towards  the  S.  is  a  large  olive-plantation;  towards  the  E.  are  tombs 
and  the  town  of  Ramleh.  Farther  distant,  towards  the  N.  and  S.,  stretches 
a  beautiful  fertile  plain;  in  the  distance  to  the  \V.  is  the  silvery  band 
of  the  Mediterranean;  to  the  K.  the  blue  mountains  of  Jttdtta.  The  most 
Conspicuous  of  the  neighbouring  towns  and  villages  is  Lydda,  to  the  N.E. ; 
to  the  right-  of  it  is  Peit  Nebala,  and  adjoining  it,  to  the  left  beyond 
Lydda,  is  l>eir  Tarif.  Towards  the  E.  lies  Jimzu,  to  the  right  of  which 
are  Y315.  Kubab,  and  Latrun.  In  the  extreme  distance,  to  the  E.S.E., 
appears  En-Ncbi  Samwil  (p.  96).  —  The  view  is  finest  by  evening  light, 
when  the  mountains  ipe  gilded  by  the  setting  .sun. 

About  8  min.  to  the  iST.  of  Ramleh  is  situated  the  so-Called  Cistern  of 
St.  Helena.  Arabic  Mr  el-' Aneiziyeh  (p.  xevi),  consisting  of  six  vaults,  each 
.'30  paces  long  and  borne  by  eleven  pillars.  It  was  probably  constructed 
by  Suleiman  (p.  12). 

Immediately  after  leaving  Ramleh ,  the  line  crosses  the  road 
from  Jaffa  to  Jerusalem  and  turns  to  the  S.  across  the  marshy  plain, 
past  (left)  the  small  Arab  village  of  (18  M.)  Nd'aneh.  A  little 
to  the  right  (W.)  of  the  railway  lies  'Akir  {Elcron;  2  Kings  i.  2,  etc.), 
one  of  the  five  chief  cities  of  the  Philistines,  now  a  Jewish  colony, 
with  almost  no  traces  of  ruins.  On  a  hill  to  the  left  (E.),  near  the 
village  of  Abu  Shiisheh,  are  the  ruins  of  Tell  Jezer. 

Gezer,  mentioned  in  the  letters  found  at  Tell  el-'Amarna  (p.  lxxv),  was 
an  ancient  Canaanitish  city,  not  occupied  by  the  Israelites  (Josh.  xvi.  10; 
Judg.  i.  20).  It  was  afterwards  captured  by  Pharaoh  and  presented  by  him 
to  Solomon,  his  son-in-law,  as  his  daughter's  dowry  (1  Kings  ix.  16).  The 
place  was  an  important  fortress  in  the  time  of  the  Maccabees  (1  Mace.  iv.  15, 
ix.  52,  etc.).  Gezer  has  been  identified  with  the  episcopal  city  of  Gadara 
in  Paisestina  Prima  and  with  the  Mont  Gisart  of  the  Crusaders,  who  under 
Baldwin  IV.  here  defeated  Saladin  in  1177  (Acad,  des  Inscrip.  Comptes  Kendus 
1888,  pp.  3'J5  et  seq.).  Recent  excavations  by  the  Palestine  Exploration 
Fund  have  confirmed  the  age  of  the  town.  The  lowest  stratum  contains 
cave  dwellings  with  flint  implements,  also  numerous  Egyptian  seals,  rings, 
and  other  articles  of  jewellery  (ca.  25C0  B.  C.)  which  show  how  great 
was  the  influence  of  Egyptian  culture  at  that  remote  period.  Higher  op, 
the  periods  of  the  Canaaniles  and  of  the  Jewish  city,  both  before  and  after 
the  Exile,  were  clearly  distinguishable.  Some  of  the  caves  used  as  graves 
contained  numerous  ancient  weapons   of  bronze.    The  ancient  sanctuary 


14    Route  3. 


BITTIR. 


From  Jaffa 


a  'High  Place'  with  'mazzeboth''  (standing  stones),  was  also  discovered, 
and  under  its  pavement  were  large  clay-vessels  containing  the  bodie:s  of 
children,  doubtless  used  in  sacrifices.  The  clay-vessels  discovered  are 
in  many  instances  closely  allied  to  those  from  the  island  of  Crete:.  — 
Comp.  R.  A.  Stewart  Afacalister,  'Bible  Side-Lights  from  the  Mound  of 
Gezer:  a  Record  of  Excavation  and  Discovery  in  Palestine'  (London,  1C06). 

24  M.  Sejed;  the  station  is  situated  in  an  insalubrious  but 
fertile  plain,  one  of  the  Sultan's  private  domains.  From  Sejed  the 
line  follows  the  depression  of  the  Wddi  es-Sardr  (the  'valley  of 
Sorek';  Judg.  xvi.  4),  which  is  wide  at  its  mouth,  hut  afterwards 
narrows.  Beit  'Atdb,  situated  on  the  top  of  the  hills  to  the  left, 
remains  for  some  time  in  sight;  farther  on,  also  to  the  left,  the 
weli  of  Sar'a  (sec  below);  to  the  right,  the  weli  of  'Ain  Shems  (the 
ancient  Beth  Shemesh,  1  Sam.  vi.  9;  1  Kings  iv.  9)  and,  farther  to 
the  S.,  Beit  el-Jemdl  (agricultural  college  of  the  monks  of  St.  Joseph). 

31  M.  Deir  Aban;  the  station  is  about  3  M.  distant  from  each  of 
the  three  villages,  Deir  Abdn,  /lWi//(witli  a  colony  of  Roumanian 
Jews),  and  Sar'a  (the  ancient  Zoreah,  Josh.  xv.  33,  xix.  14;  Judg. 
xiii.  2),  that  are  served  by  it.  Sar'a  (see  above)  is  seen  on  a  hill 
to  the  left;  to  the  E.  is  Artiif,  with  several  modern  houses  with  tiled 
roofs.  The  mountains  now  begin.  Shortly  after  entering  them  we 
sec  higli  up  in  the  rocks  to  the  left  the  mouth  of  a  grotto  ,  the  so- 
called  Samson's  Cavern  (the  story  of  Samson  is  localized  in  this 
district;  Judg.  xiii-xvi).  The  line  passes  along  precipitous  walls 
of  rock  and  ascends  the  Wddi  es-Sardr,  the  windings  of  which  it  fol- 
lows. We  pass  (38'/'2  M.)  Deir  esh-Sheikh,  situated  on  a  hill  to  the 
right,  and  (401/;)  M. )  'Akur,  on  a  hill  to  the  left;  beyond  it,  the  Wddi 
Kaloniyeh  opens  on  the  left.    The  line  follows  the  Wadi  es-SarAr. 

471/4  M.  Bittir.  —  The  Railway  Station  is  >/<  hr.  distant  from  the 
village,  where  there  is  a  copious  spring. 

History.  The  Baither  of  Joshua  xv.  59  in  the  Septaagint  (Beth-araOah 
of  Josh.  xv.  61  in  the  A.V.),  or  Bethar,  played  an  important  part  in  the 
insurrection  of  liar  Oochba  (p.  lxxx)  against  the  Romans.  The  latter 
succeeded  in  capturing  it  only  after  a  siege  of  iJi/2  years  (A.  1).  135),  when 
a  terrible  massacre  of  the  inhabitants  ensued. 

The  Muslim  village  lies  on  a  terrace  between  the  Wddi  Bittir 
and  another  valley.  From  the  spring  we  ascend  a  steep  path  to  a 
second  terrace.  Traces  of  walls,  known  as  Khirbet  el-Yehud,  or  'ruin 
of  the  Jews',  prove  that  the  place,  admirably  adapted  for  a  strong- 
hold ,  was  once  fortified.  On  the  E.  side  are  chambers  in  the  rock 
and  old  cisterns,  with  some  remarkable  niches  between  them. 

From  Bittir  the  line  ascends  the  Wddi  el-Werd  (valley  of  roses, 
p.  93)  at  a  pretty  steep  gradient.  Et-Welejeh  is  on  the  left; 
farther  on,  Philip's  Weil  £Ain  el-Haniyeh,  p.  93)  and  the  ullages 
of  'Ain  Ydlo  (p.  93)  and  Esh-Sh(rdfdt  are  seen  on  the  right,  then, 
on  the  left,  El-Mdliha  and  Katamdn  (p.  69).  Beit  Safdfd  and  the 
monastery  of  Mar  Elyds  (p.  99)  are  visible  on  the  right.  After  Beit 
Safafa,  the  line  traverses  in  a  straight  line  the  plateau  of  El-Eukei'a, 


to  Jerusalem. 


YAZUK. 


3.  Route.    15 


which  is  probably  identical  with  the  valley  of  Rephaim,  through 
which  the  boundary  between  Judah  and  Benjamin  ran  (Josh.xv.  8). 
Here  the  Philistines  were  defeated  by  David  (2  Sam.  v.  18,  etc.).  — 
We  now  reach  the  station  of  — 
54  M.  Jerusalem  (p.  19). 


B,   By  Boad. 

40  M.  Fair  road,  7-8  hrs.  to  drive  and  11-12  lirs.  to  ride.  This  route 
is  interesting.  —  Carriages  (p.  7)  during  the  season,  50-60  fr.  (single  seat, 
10-15  fr.),  and  5  fr.  to  the  driver.  —  Morses:  for  riding,  12-15  fr.,  for  bag- 
gage, 8-10  fr. ;  a  inukari  (p.  xx)  accompanies  the  animals.  —  We  start  early, 
so  as  to  reach  Jerusalem  before  night.  Provisions  should  be  taken.  Two 
or  three  stoppages  are  made  on  the  road:  at  Ramleh  (3'/4  hrs.1  ride);  at 
Bab  el'Wdd  (O'/a  hrs.  from  Jaffa;  breakfast,  p.  16);  and  again  at  KalCniyeli 
(UVz  hrs.  from  Jall'a). 

To  the  (10  min.)  SebU  Abu  Nebbut,  see  p.  8.  —  After  i/4  hr. 
we  enter  the  plain  of  Sharon  (p.  10).  On  the  right  is  a  farm  called 
Mikweh  Israel,  established  by  the  Alliance  Israelite,  where  Jews 
are  taught  agriculture.  After  a  ride  of  3/4  hr.  from  Jaffa,  a  watch- 
tower  is  seen  rising  on  the  right.  It  is  the  first  of  17  which  were 
built  in  1860,  at  intervals  of  1-1  '/4  M.,  to  guard  the  route  to  Jeru- 
salem. They  arc  now  without  garrisons.  "We  reach  Ydziir (beautiful 
retrospect)  */4  br.  later,  and  farther  on  the  Weil  Imam  'All,  with  its 
numerous  domes;  adjoining  it  is  a  well  of  excellent  water  ('Am 
Bilb).  The  road  to  Lydda  (p.  11)  diverges  here  to  the  left.  After 
20  min.  the  2nd  watch-tower  is  seen  on  the  right.  To  the  left  we 
soon  perceive  the  villages  of  Sukiyeh  and  Beit  Dejan(\>.  11).  About 
1  '/2  M.  to  the  S.  of  the  road  lies  the  Jewish  colony  of  Rishon  le-Zion. 
Near  the  3rd  watch-tower  (20  min.)  we  reach  plantations,  chiefly 
of  olives.  After  25  min.  we  pass  the  4th  watch-tower,  whence  the 
tower  of  Ramleh  becomes  visible.  Farther  on  (22  min.)  the  village 
of  Sarafand  peeps  from  amidst  cactus-hedges  on  a  hill  to  the 
right.  In  35  min.  more  we  reach  Er-Ramleh  (p.  12).  At  the  en- 
trance to  the  town  we  keep  to  the  left;  the  road  to  the  right  leads 
to  the  tower. 

Beyond  Kamleh  the  route  crosses  the  railway  near  the  station. 
After  7  min.  a  large  pond  {Birket  el-Jdmus,  or  'buffalo  well'). 
22  min.,  the  6th  watch-tower,  on  the  left.  The  land  is  richly  cul- 
tivated, but  the  plantations  of  trees  soon  disappear.  '/2  nr-i  *ne 
7th  watch-tower;  on  a  hill  to  the  N.E.,  Beit  'Ennabeh;  to  the  right 
is  the  hamlet  of  Berrtyet  er-Ramleh,  or  'outwork  of  ltamleh'.  %  hr., 
to  the  left,  the  insignificant  ruin  of  Kafr  Tab,  the  ancient  Cafartoba 
iiir  ttioned  in  the  history  of  the  Jewish  war,  with  the  weli  of  Sheikh 
Suleiman;  on  the  right,  to  the  S.,  Abu  SMsheh  arid  beside  it,  the 
ruins  of  Tell  Jezer  (p.  13). 

Iu  */4  hr.  more  we  see,  to  the  left,  on  a  little  hill,  the  village  of 
El-Kubdb  (Cobe  of  the  Talmud).  Beyond  (4  min.)  the  8th  watch- 
tower  we  descend  to  the  bed  of  a  valley.    In  front  of  us  we  see 


16    Route  3. 


AMWAS. 


From  Jaffa 


Ldtrun,  'Amicus,  Ydlo,  Beit  Nuba,  and,  on  the  hill,  the  two  Beit'Ur. 
20  min.,  on  the  right,  the  9th  watch-tower;  18  min.  (6^/3  Iits.  from 
Jaffa),  on  the  left,  Latrfin  appears  on  a  hill,  with  'Amivds  (Trappist 
Monastery)  close  by  to  the  N. 

Latriin.  —  This  name,  which  was  originally  Ndtr&n,  was  connected 
in  the  middle  ages  with  the  Latin  'latro',  a  robber.  Hence  arose  the 
mediaeval  legend  that  this  was  the  native  place  of  the  Penitent  Thief 
('('astellum  Boni  Latronis1,  who  is  said  to  have  been  called  IHsmas),  or  of 
both  thieves.  The  ruins  probably  belong  to  the  .ancient  fortress  of  Nicopolis 
(see  below)  and  the  partly  preserved  walls  date  from  several  different 
periods.     The  choir  of  a  church  is  also  said  to  be  traceable. 

'Amwas.  —  The  Emmaus  of  the  Old  Testament  is  frequently  mentioned 
as  a  place  of  strategic  importance  in  the  time  of  the  Maccabees  (e.  g 
1  Mace.  iii.  40).  It  afterwards  became  the  capital  of  a  district  of  Jud  sea 
(Jos.  Hell.  Jud.  ii.  20,4;  Pliny,  Nat.  Hist.  v.  '(0.1$  and  an  inscription  men- 
tions the  5th  legion  as  encamped  here  in  68-70  A.D.  The  town  was  named 
Nicopolis  from  the  days  of  Julius  African  us  (about  the  beginning  of  the 
3rd  cent.).  During  the  Christian  period  it  was  an  episcopal  sec.  In  the 
early  days  of  Islam  several  fierce  skirmishes  took  place  here.  —  The 
Emmaus  of  the  New  Testament  can  be  identified  with  'Arnicas  (about  175  stadia 
from  Jerusalem)  only  if  we  accept  the  reading  160  stadia,  found  in  some 
MSS.  of  Luke  xxiv.  13.  KalOniyeh  (p.  17),  on  the  other  hand,  is  only  34  stadia 
from  Jerusalem.  The  most  probable  site  is  El-Kubeibeh  (p.  96).  Whether 
one  of  these  two  Emmauses  is  to  be  identified  with  Vespasian's  military 
colony  of  the  same  name  (30  stadia  from  Jerusalem;  Jos.  Bell.  Jud.  vii, 
6,6),  and  if  so,  which,  cannot  be  determined  (comp.  ZDPV.  xv.  172$  xvi. 
146$  xvii.  224;  also  Barnabfs  'Deux  Questions  d'Archeolugie  Palestinienne', 
Jerusalem,  1902).      ^^  j  "f  k  0  t- Ji"  f^>  t     ■ 

A  little  to  the  S.  of  the  village  is  a  famous  spring  to  which  sana- 
tory properties  were  once  attributed.  The  ruins,  the  property  of  the 
Carmelite  Nuns  of  Bethlehem ,  probably  belonged  to  the  Koinan 
thermae,   out  of  which  a  church  was  constructed  in  the  6th  century. 

We  now  descend  into  the  Wddi  el-Khaltl,  which  runs  towards 
the  S.W.  After  25  min.  the  11th  watch-tower  rises  on  the  left,  and 
after  16  min.  more  the  12th.  A  well  here,  on  the  right,  is  called 
Blr  Eyyub  (Job's  well).  On  a  height  to  the  left,  at  some  distance, 
rises  the  dilapidated  house  of  Deir  Eyyub  (Job's  monastery).  In 
16  min.  from  the  well  we  reach  the  narrow  entrance  to  the  Wddi 
(Imam)  'Ali,  called  Bab  el -Wad,  or  gate  of  the  valley,  on  the  left 
of  which  is  the  13th  watchrtower  and  on  the  right  a  cafe. 

The  road  now  enters  the  Wddi  'Ali  and  leads  in  V4  hr.  to  the 
ruins  of  a  mosque  situated  at  a  spot  called  Ma'mra,  the  narrowest 
part  of  the  valley.  After  1/4  hr.  more,  at  the  junction  of  the  valleys, 
we  come  to  the  'Trees  of  the  Imam  'Ali';  close  by  is  a  ruined 
mosque  shaded  by  large  trees.  The  route  then  reaches  {lb  min.) 
the  village  of  Sdrls,  on  the  right.  The  path  next  winds  up  the  tide 
of  another  valley,  ascending  the  hill  on  which  lie  the  ruins  of 
the  ancient  Sdrls.  At  the  top  (12  min.)  is  discovered  a  beautiful  view 
of  the  plain  and  the  sea  beyond.  After  12  min.  we  perceive  Subd 
(p.  17),  in  front  of  us,  to  the  E. ,  while  to  the  S.  opens  the  bleak 
Wddi  Sdris.   After  25  min.  we  reach  the  top  of  a  hill,  where  vrc  lake 


to  Jerusalem. 


abu  Giiosn. 


3.  Route.    17 


luiave  of  our  view  towards  the  W.  On  the  opposite  hill  lies  the  ruin 
otf  Kastal  (see  below).  A  little  farther  on  we  reach  El-Karya  or  — 
Abu  Ghosh.  ■ —  The  village  is  so  called  after  a  powerful  village  sheikh 
otf  that  name,  who  was  for  many  years  at  the  beginning  of  the  19th  cent, 
thie  terror  of  the  whole  district.  It  was  formerly  called  Kari/ct  el-'Enab, 
oir  the  town  of  grapes,  a  name  which  occurs  for  the  first  time  in  the 
15)th  century.  The  present  village  does  not  occupy  the  site  of  the  ancient 
to>wn,  which  lay  on  the  hill  to  the  \V.,  to  the  left  of  the  road.  Here 
ai-e  numerous  cisterns  and  graves,  and  the  foundations  of  a  chnrch 
with  an  apse  have  also  lately  been  found.  A  Greek  tradition  places 
tine  Emmaus  of  the  New  Testament  here  (but  comp.  p.  16).  Eusebius,  as 
well  as  the  Crusaders,  appears  to  have  here  sought  for  Kirjath-Jearim 
(fiorest-town;  1  Sam.  vii.  1),  but  the  identification  is  very  doubtful.  — 
Title  recently  restored  Church ,  at  present  in  possession  of  the  French 
government,  lies  to  the  right  of  the  road.  It  is  remarkable  for  the  small 
spiiral  enrichments  which  also  occur  in  Arabian  structures,  whose  archi- 
tects borrowed  them  from  Christian  monuments  of  the  G-7th  century.  The 
th.ree  apses  are  externally  concealed  by  masonry.  The  nave  is  loftier  and 
wilder  than  the  aisles,  and  is  supported  by  three  pilasters  on  each  side  : 
iUs  arches  rest  on  pillars  of  peculiar  form,  in  which  Vogue  detects  Arabian 
influence.  There  is  no  transept.  The  walls  of  the  church,  particularly  those 
of  the  apse,  and  those  of  the  crypt  likewise,  were  adorned  with  frescoes  in 
thfe  liyzantine  style,  and  partly  covered  with  mosaics,  of  which  distinct 
traices  still  exist.  Under  the  whole  length  of  the  church  runs  a  crypt.  An 
opiening  in  the  floor  of  the  crypt,  near  the  centre,  descends  to  a  spring 
(II  ev.  Arch.  xix.  223  et  seq.).  The  theory  that  recognizes  the  building  as 
originally  a  fort  of  Vespasian  is  improbable;  still  more  SO  the  identill- 
ca  tion  of  the  site  with  Emmaus  and  the  Crusaders'  fortress  of  Fontenoide. 
—  The  church  is  mentioned  for  the  first  time  in  1519  under  the  name 
of  the  church  of  St.  Jeremiah.  That  name,  however,  was  used  in  con- 
sequence of  a  mistaken  identification  of  Karyet  el-fEnab  with  Anathoth. 
the  birthplace  of  the  prophet  (p.  97).  In  an  open  space  to  the  N.  of  the 
church  is  the  tomb  of  the  Sheikh  Abu  Ohdsh,  with  a  Sebil  (fountain). 

The  route  skirts  the  outside  of  the  village.  We  observe  on  a  hill 
to  the  right  (S.)  the  village  of  Subd,  erroneously  identified  by  tra- 
dition since  the  13th  cent,  with  Mode'in  (1  Mace.  ii.  1),  the  native 
pi  ace  of  the  Maccabflean  family.  M6dc'in  is  now  generally  recognized 
in  El-Medyeh,  a  village  with  interesting  rock-tombs,  to  the  E.S.K. 
of  Lydda,  though  even  this  identification  is  open  to  doubt  (comp. 
1  Mace.  xiii.  27  et  seq.).  In  27  min.  after  leaving  Abu  Ghosh  we 
reach  (on  the  right)  a  spring  called  'Ain  Dilb.  On  a  hill  to  the  left 
lits  Beit  Nakiibd.  Iu  5  min.  we  come  to  a  bridge  across  the  valley; 
in  the  latter,  farther  to  the  S.,  we  see  the  ruins  of  Kebdla  (once 
perhaps  a  monastery).  In  14  min.  more  we  attain  the  top  of  the  hill, 
on  which  the  village  of  Kastal  lies  above  us  to  the  right.  The  name 
is  doubtless  of  Roman  origin,  being  derived  from  castellum.  En-Nebi 
SamwU  is  visible  towards  the  N.,  and,  */4  ar-  farther,  'Ain  Kdrim  in 
the  distance  towards  the  S.  (p.  94).  We  now  descend  by  great  wind- 
ings into  the  Wddi  Kaloniyeh  or  Wddi  Beit  Hanmd,  frequently 
though  erroneously  identified  with  the  'valley  of  Elah'  (i.e.  of  tere- 
binths) of  1  Sam.  xvii.  2  (p.  123).  About  20  min.  farther  on  (9i/2  hrs. 
from  Jaffa)  is  a  bridge;  close  by  is  a  cafe".  On  the  hill  to  the  left 
lies  Kaldniyeh,  a  name  derived  by  som_e  scholars  from  'oolonia'; 


but  a  place  named  Koulon  is  found  in  the  Scptiiagiut  (.losh.  w.  59). 


iM^fe*/T«. 


18     Route  3. 


BEIT  'UR. 


For  the  identification  of  Kal6niyeh  with  Emmaus,  comp.  p.  16.  The 
road  now  ascends  the  Wfidi  Beit  Hanmd  in  long  windings.  En-Nebi 
Samwil  is  soon  seen  again;  on  the  hill  to  the  left,  Beit  Jksd.  In  a 
small  valley,  also  to  the  left,  lies  Liftd,  with  a  large  spring  and  the 
stones  of  some  very  ancient  buildings  at  the  E.  entrance  to  the 
village.  This  place  corresponds,  perhaps,  with  Nephtoah  on  the 
confines  of  Judah  (Josh.  xv.  9).  After  %  hr.  we  pass,  on  our  left, 
the  Jewish  Home  for  the  Aged,  opposite  to  which  stands  the  Jewish 
Lunatic  Asylum.  The  road  to  fAin  Karim  (p.  94)  diverges  here  to  the 
right.  Immediately  beyond  it,  on  the  left,  are  the  10th  watch-tower 
and  the  weli  of  Sheikh  Bedr;  on  the  right  the  Greek  Monastery  of  the 
Cross  (p.  92),  Mar  Elyas,  and  Bethlehem  become  visible.  In  front 
of  us  is  the  glittering  dome  of  the  mosque  of 'Omar  and  behind  it 
the  tower  of  the  Mount  of  Olives,  but  the  city  itself  is  still  hidden. 
Then  begin  the  houses  of  the  Jewish  colony;  to  the  right  is  the  large 
hospital  of  the  Ashkenazim,  and,  farther  on,  to  the  left,  is  the 
Town  Hospital;  opposite  the  latter  (right)  is  a  military  post  on  the 
site  of  the  10th  watch-tower.  We  next  perceive  the  extensive  pile 
of  buildings  belonging  to  the  Russians,  with  its  church  of  five  domes, 
beyond  which  is  the  chapel  on  the  Mt.  of  Olives.  The  domes  of  the 
church  of  the  Sepulchre,  the  tower  of  the  German  church  of  the 
Saviour,  etc.,  are  also  visible.  A  little  farther  on  the  walls  come 
in  view,  and  in  18min.  more  we  reach  the  Jaffa  Gate  (p.  33). 

Fkom  Jaffa  to  Jerusalem  via  Lsdda  and  Beit  'fJu,  11  hrs.  From  .Tafia 
to  'Ain  Dilb  (1  hr.)  by  the  Jerusalem  Koad,  see  p.  15.  At  this  point  our 
route  diverges  to  the  left  (S.E.).  In  '/<  hr.,  on  the  left,  we  see  the  village 
of  Sdkiyeh;  17  min.,  on  the  right,  lieil  Dejan.  23  min.,  Sdfiriyeh  (on  the 
left;  p.  11);  1  hr.,  Lydda  (p.  11);  50  min.,  Jimzti  (Gimzo,  2  Chron.  kxfiii, 
18),  visible  on  a  height.  Beyond  the  village  the  . path  turns  to  the  left; 
2hrs.  10  min.,  the  ruins  of  Umm  Rath.  l,hr.,  Belt  <Ur  et-Tahta,  halfway  up 
the  mountain,  on  a  low  hill,  l'hr.,  2>et7  'Or  el-F6la,  admirably  situated  on 
the  top  of  a  mountain-spur  between  the  two  valleys.  The  'lower'  and  the 
'upper'  Beit  'Ur  occupy  the  site  of  the  Beth-Horons  of  antiquity  (Josh.  x. 
It);  xviii.  13,  etc.).  Solomon  fortified  the  lower  town  (1  Kings  ix.  17),  and 
here  Judas  Maccabscus  defeated  the  Syrians  under  Nieanor  (1  Mace,  vii.39). 
A  frequented  road  led  in  ancient  days  from  Jerusalem  to  the  coast  via 
these  villages.  In  1  hr.  40  min.  we  reach  the  top  of  the  pass  and  see 
El-Jib  and  En-Nebi  Samwil.  2-S  min.,  El-Jib  (p.  97).  Hence  to  Jerwaiem, 
see  pp.  97,  211. 


19 


Yyfsfim 

4.  Jerusalem. 


Arrival.  The  Railway  Station  (comp.  PI.  C,  9)  lies  to  the  S.  of  the 
town,  3/i  M.  from  the  Jaffa  Gate  (PI.  D,  5,  6),  and  to  the  E.  of  the  German 
Temple  Colony.  Carriage  to  the  town,  2-5  fr.  according  to  the  season.  The 
road  to  the  Jaffa  Gate  (p.  33)  leads  past  the  Ophthalmic  Hospital  of  the 
English  Knights  of  St.  John  (p.  69)  to  the  Valley  of  Hinnom,  which  it 
crosses  by  the  embankment  to  the  S.  of  the  Birket  es-Sultan,  and  then 
ascends  along  the  W.  side  of  the  Zion  suburb  (comp.  p.  69). 

Hotels  (comp.p.xvi).  Guand  New  Hotel  (P1.c,D5;  landlord,  Morkos), 
near  the  Citadel;  Hotel  do  Pauo  (PI.  a,  C  4;  landlords,  Hall  Brothers), 
Lloyd  Hotel  (PI.  b,  C  4;  landlord,  A.  Fast),  Hotel  Hughes  (PI.  d;  C,  4), 
these  three  in  the  Jaffa  Itoad  •,  Jerusalem  Hotel  (see  map  of  environs ; 
landlord,  Kaminitz),  farther  to  the  N.W.  Pension  at  all  the  above,  without, 
wine,  in  the  season  12-15  fr.  (less  for  a  prolonged  stay),  at  other  times 
8-10  fr.  (by  arrangement).  Jerusalem  wine  1-2  fr.  per  bottle,  French 
red  wine  from  3  fr.  —  Pensions.  Olivet  House  (PI.  e,  C  2;  landlord, 
Hensmunri);  Williams  (PI.  f;  C,  1). 

Hospices.  ^Prussian  Hospice  of  St.  John  (PI.  g,  F  4;  superintendent, 
J.  Vesler),  recommended  for  a  prolonged  stay  (secure  rooms  in  advance  during 
the  season);  cuisine  plain  but  good,  pension,  incl.  wine,  5  fr.  —  German 
Catholic  Hospice  (PI.  E,  2;  director,  Schmidt),  in  the  Jaffa  suburb.  — 
Austrian  Hospice  (PI.  i,  F3;  rector,  Dr.  Fellinger),  in  the  Via  Dolorosa.  — 
Casa  A'uova  of  the  Franciscans  (PI.  k,  D,  4,  5;  Comp.  p.  20).  —  All  these 
are  plainly  hut  well  fitted  up;  clean  beds  and  good  food.  Travellers  of 
means  are  charged  5-8  fr.  a  day  or  are  expected  to  pay  that  sum. 

Beer  Houses  and  Cafes.  Faig's  German  Beer  Room,  in  the  Jaffa  Road; 
A.  Lendhold,  in  the  Temple  Colony  (has  a  brewery  of  his  own).  Bavarian 
beer  7-9  pi.  a  bottle.  —  Confectioner.  Bacher,  in  the  Jaffa  Road.  —  Wine. 
Jmberger,  in  the  Jaffa  Road  and  in  the  Colony ;  Berner,  Carmel  Oriental  Co. 
(wines  of  the  Jewish  colonies),  both  these  in  the  Jaffa  Road. 

Post  Offices  (comp.  p.  xxiv).  Turkish  (PI.  D,  5),  outside  the  Jaffa  Gate; 
Austrian  (PI.  E,  5,  6),  opposite  the  Citadel;  French  (PI.  C,  5),  German 
(PI.  1>,  5),  Russian  (PI.  B,  4),  outside  the  Jaffa  Gate.  —  International  Tele- 
graph, in  the  Turkish  post  office. 

Tourist  Offices.  Cook  &  Son,  inside  the  Jaffa  Gate;  F.  Clark,  Jaffa 
Road;  Br.  I.  Benzinger  (formerly  Palmer,  Kappus,  &  Co.),  Jaffa  Road; 
Hamburg-American  Line,  Jaffa  Koad;  Agence  Litbin,  at  Dr.  I.  Benzinger' s  (see 
above);  Tadros,  outside  the  Jaffa  Gate. 

Dragomans  (see  p.  xvii).  Francis  Karum  (speaks  French,  Italian,  and 
English);  David  Jamal&Son  (Engl.) ;  Dimitri  Bomian  (English  and  German); 
Karl  Williams  (Ger.,  Engl.,  and  Fr.);  Hanna  Anwad  (Engl.,  Fr.,  Hal.); 
N.  Maroum  (Engl.,  Fr.,  Hal.);  Rafael  Lorenzo  (Fr.,  Ital.);  Joseph  Lorenzo 
(Ger.,  Fr.,  Hal.,  Engl.);  Francis  Morkos  (Fr.,  Hal.);  Farwtigi  &  Yasmineh 
(Engl.,  Fr.,  Ital.);  Gabriel  Atargi  (Engl.,  Fr.,  Hal.,  Ger.);  Afif  G.  Alallah 
(Engl.,  Fr.,  Ital.);  A.  Schammas  (Engl.,  Fr.). 

Carriages  and  Horses.  Carriages  are  always  to  be  found  at  the  Jaffa 
Gate,  hut  for  longer  excursions  they  should  be  specially  engaged  at  a 
tourist-office  or  a  hotel.  Per  drive  >/«  mej.,  per  hour  lj-i  mej.  Prices 
should  be  settled  beforehand.  —  Saddle  Horse  yi  day  5,  whole  day  8  fr. ; 
for  longer  tours  according  to  bargain.  A  European  saddle  should  be 
stipulated  for  (p.  xx).  —  Donkey,  >/2  day  2-3,  whole  day  4-5  fr. 

Consulates  (p.  xxiv).  British  (PI.  8;  A,  1),  J.  Dickson;  United  States 
(PI.  5;  E,  5),  Rev.  Dr.  S.  Men-rill  (vice-consul  //.  E.  Clark);  Austrian  (PI.  6; 
A,  2)  Ritler  von  Zepharovitch ;  Dutch  (PI.  10;  C,  5),  Dr.  I.  Benzinger;  French 
(PI.  4;  B,  C,  3),  G.  Outrey  (cons. -gen.);  German  (see  map  of  environs), 
M.  E.  Schmidt;  Greek  (PI.  9;  B,  C,  5),  /.  P.  Alexandropoulos  (cons  -gen.); 
Italian  (PI.  11;  A,  2),  Marquis  Gavolti  Verospt;  Russian  (PI.  12;  C,  3),  A.  G. 
Jacovlev  (cons. -gen.);  Spanish  (PI.  7;  C,  5),  R.  de  Casares;  Swedish  (PI.  A,  1), 
G.  Dalman;  Persian  (PI.  13;  A,  3),  Ala  Bey  Jabri. 


20    Route  4. 


JERUSALEM. 


Practical  Kotos. 


Bankers.  Credit  Lyonnais  (PI.  D,  5),  in  the  Jaffa  lload ;  Deutsche  Palaes- 
tina-Bank  (PI.  2  ;  D.5),  inside  the  Jaffa  Gate ;  Bunque  Ottomane  (PI.  1 ;  D',  5),  in 
the  Jaffa  Road;  English  Bank  of  Palestine,  inside  the  Jaffa  Gate;  Valero 
(PI.  3;  E,  5),  David  Street. 

Physicians.  Dr.  Bonnardiere,  physician  tn  the  French  Hospital  of 
St.  Louis ;  Br.  Cant,  physician  of  the  English  Ophthalmic  Hospital ;  Dr.  Einsler, 
OOttlist  and  physician  of  the  Lepers'  Hospital;  Dr.  Euclides,  municipal 
physician;  Dr.  Feuchtwanger,  Jewish;  Dr.  Grussendoif,  physician  of  the 
Hospital  of  Ihe  Deaconesses  of  Kaiserswerth ;  J)rs.  Mastermann  and  Wheeler, 
physicians  of  the  Hospital  of  the  London  .lews'  Society;  Dr.  Mancini, 
physician  of  the  Custodia  Terrtc  Sanctis ;  Dr.  Severin,  physician  of  the 
Russian  Hospital;  Dr.  Wallach.  physician  of  ihe  German  Jewish  Hospital 
(Shaare  Zedek). —  Dentists.  RezlafP;  Brimwierloh. —  Chemists.  Gaitancpoulos, 
beside  the  Jaffa  Gate;  Salomon,  Damiani,  in  the  Jaffa  Road;  and  at  the 
Hospitals. 

Provisions  for  trips  into  the  country.  Artin  Bekmesian,  in  the  Jaffa 
Road.  —  Travelling  Requisites.  Schnerring,  saddler,  in  the  Jaffa  Road.  — 
Tailor.  Eppingtr,  Jaffa  Road.  —  Shoemakers.  JIahn,  Messerle,  in  the  Beth- 
lehem Road  and  in  the  German  Colony.  —  Kress  Goods.  Imberger  Brothers, 
1\  <<•  ('.  Jmberger,  liabinowitz,  Nicodime,  A'.  Ohan,  all  in  the  Jaffa  Road. 

Photographs  of  Palestine  at  Venter's,  Marounis,  and  Boulus  Meo's-  all  in 
ihe  Grand  New  Hotel  building,  and  at  A'icodi'me's.  in  the  Jafl'a  Road.  The 
best  are  those  of  the  American  Colony  and  Bonflls  of  Beirut,  and  the  coloured 
photographs  of  the  Photoylob  of  Ziirieh.  —  Photographers  (also  photographic 
supplies).     Krikorian,  Baud,  both  in  the  Jaffa  Road. 

Other  favourite  Souvenirs  are  rosaries,  crosses  and  other  ornaments 
in  mother-of-pearl,  vaSes  and  other  objects  in  black  \stinkstum  '  from 
the  Dead  Sea,  and  roses  of  Jericho.  Articles  of  this  nature  are  annually 
exported  to  the  value  of  oOO.COO  fr.  Higher-class  work  is  best  bought  at 
Vesler's,  Maroum's,  and  Boulus  Meo's,  all  in  the  Grand  New  Hotel  building. 
A  staple  product  of  Jerusalem  is  carved  work  in  olive-wood  and  oak 
(rulers,  paper-weights,  crucifixes,  etc.;  usually  with  the  name 'Jerusalem' 
in  Hebrew  letters,  or  with  the  Jerusalem  cross).  —  Bores  and  Albums  of 
Dried  Wild  Floicers  are  sold  in  the  shops  mentioned  above. 

Forwarding  Agents.    A.  Singer's  Successors,  R.  Aberle,  K.  U.  L.  Breisch. 

Churches,  Convents,  Charitable  Institutions,  Schools,  etc.  —  Latins 
or  Roman  Catholics:  Church  of  the  Patriarchate  (p.  34):  Church  of  St.  Anne 
(p.  48);  Ecce  Homo  Church  (p.  49);  Church  of  St.  Stephen  (p.  87);  Church  of 
the  Dortnitio  (p. 71);  Cavern  of  the  Agony  (p. 74);  Chapel  of  the  Scourging  (?■&$)■ 
—  Franciscan  Monastery  of  St.  Salrator,  with  orphanage  (see  below),  dis- 
pensary, and  priuting-oiiice.  Monasteries  of  Ihe  Holy  Sepulchre  ( Franciscans), 
of  the  Dominicans  (p.  87),  of  the  l'assionist  Fathers  (on  the  way  to  Bethany), 
of  the  Benedictines  (on  the  Mountain  of  Offence),  of  the  P&ret  Blanc*,  and 
of  the  Lazarists.  The  Convents  of  the  Soeurs  Franciscaines,  the  Carmelite 
Sisters,  the  iDames  de  Sion',  the  Sisters  of  St.  Joseph,  the  '  Soeurs  du  llosaire', 
the  Clarities,  the  '■Soeurs  lleparatrices' ,  and  the  Benedictine  Nuns.  —  Sellouts  : 
Seminary  of  the  Patriarchate,  Parish  Schools  of  the  Franciscans  (for  boys) 
and  of  the  Sisters  of  St.  Joseph  (for  girls),  Orphanages  in  the  monastery  of 
St.  Salvator  (for  boys)  and  under  the  management  of  the  Soeurs  Franciscaines 
(for  girls),  Handicraft  School  of  St.  Pierre  (founded  by  P.  Ratisbonne),  the 
boys'  schools  of  the  Franciscans  and  of  the  School  Brethren  (p.  34),  the 
girls'  school  and  girls'  orphanage  managed  by  the  Sisters  of  St.  Joseph,  the 
school  and  orphanage  of  the  'Dames  de  Sion',  the  girls'  school  of  the  Soeurs 
du  Bosaire,  and  the  school  of  the  German  Society  of  the  Holy  Land.  — 
Hospitals:  St.  Louis's  HospitaUFrcnch institution;  physician, Dr. Ronnardiere; 
nurses,  the  Sisters  of  St.  Joseph);  the  institution  of  the  lSoenrs  de  Chariti' 
(for  the  sick  the  aged.,  and  foundlings').  —  Houses  for  Pilgrims:  Casa 
Nuora  of  the  Franciscans;  German  Catholic  Hospice;  Austrian  Jlcspirr; 
large  French  house  for  pilgrims  of  Notre  Dame  de  France.  —  The  Oriental 
churches  affiliated  to  the  Latins  are  those  of  the  United  Greeks  or  Greek 
Catholics  (church  in  the  house  of  the  patriarchate,  chapel  of  St.  Veronica, 
girls'  orphanage  of  the  Soeurs  Benedictines,  and  the  large  seminary  of 
Ste.  Anne  des  Peres  Blancs);  the  United  Syrians  (p.  )xi),  with  a  seminary; 


l'rdctical  Notes. 


JERUSALEM. 


4.  Route.     21 


ami  the  United  Armenians,  with  the  church  of  Notre  Dame  du  Spasme  (p.  49), 
a  chapel,  a  hospice,  and  a  school. 

English  Protestant  Community.  The  joint  Protestant  bishopric,  sup- 
ported by  England  and  Prussia,  under  an  arrangement  due  to  Frederick 
William  IV.  of  Prussia,  was  dissolved  in  1887.  Since  then  the  British 
and  German  communities  have  been  independent  in  religious  matters. 
The  English  Protestant  community  is  under  the  leadership  of  Bishop  Blyth, 
consecrated  in  March,  1887,  and  is  financially  supported  by  the  Jerusalem 
Bishopric  Fund  and  the  three  English  Missionary  Societies  working  in 
Palestine.  The  community  is  mainly  a  missionary  one, and  comprises  about 
80  persons.  The  Episcopal  Residence,the  Collegiate  Church  of  St.  George  (services 
at  9  a.m.  and  4.80  p.m.),  the  boys1  and  girls'  schools  connected  with  it,  and 
an  Anglican  Clergy  House  or  College,  lie  to  the  N.  of  the  town  (p.  87).  To  the 
'Church  Missionary  Society'  belong  the  Church  of  St.  Paul  (pp.  63,  69;  service 
in  Arabic  on  Sun.  at  9.30  a.m.  and  3  p.m.),  the  boys'  orphanage  (p.  70) 
founded  by  Bishop  Gobat,  a  day-school  for  boys  and  girls,  and  the  recently- 
established  College,  the  last  distinct  from,  though  situated  close  to,  the 
above-mentioned  Anglican  Clergy  House.  To  the  'London  Jews'  Society' 
belongs  Christ  Church  (p.  35;  English  services  on  Sun.  at  10  a.m.  and  also 
at  7.30  p.m.  in  summer  and  4  p.m.  in  winter).  Connected  with  the  mission 
are  a  large  hospital,  two  dispensaries,  boarding-schools  for  boys  and  girls,  a 
girls'  day-school,  and  an  industrial  school  and  printing-office.  —  The  English 
Knights  of  St.  Johnhuw  an  ophthalmic  hospital  on  theBethlehem  road  (p.  69). 
German  Evangelical  Community.  Church  of  the  Redeemer  (PI.  E,  5; 
p.  46;  services  in  German  on  Sun.  at  9.30  a.m.,  in  Arabic  at  3  p.m.) ;  Hospice 
of  St.  John  (p.  50);  Hospital  of  the  Deaconesses  of  Kaiserswerth;  the  Lepers' 
Hospital  (p.  69),  maintained  by  the  Moravian  Brothers ;  the  girls'  orphanage 
Talitha  Cumi  (p.  68);  German  Rectory  School  (p.  69);  Schneller's  Syrian- 
Orphanage  for  boys  (p.  68;  service  in  Arabic  on  Sun.  at  9.30  a.m.),  connected 
with  a  home  for  the  blind  and  a  day-school  for  Arab  boys  in  the  town. 
Orthodox  Greek  Church.  Monastery  of  Helena  and  Constantine,  Mon- 
astery of  Abraham  (p.  45),  Monastery  of  Gethsemane  (p.  45),  Convents  of 
St.  Basil,  St.  Theodore,  St.  George,  St.  Michael,  St.  Catharine,  St.  Euthymius, 
St.  Seetnagia,  St.  Spiridon,  St.  Caralombos,  St.  John  the  Baptist,  Nativity  of  Mary, 
St.  George  (a  second  of  that  name),  St.  Demetrius,  St.  Nicholas  (containing 
a  printing-office),  Santo  Spirilo  (near  the  Damascus  Gate);  girls'  and  boys' 
school,  a  hospital,  etc.  —  The  Greek  priests  wear  round  black  caps. 

To  the  Russian  Mission  belong  the  great  Russian  buildings  in  the 
Jafi'a  suburb  (p.  68;  church,  house  for  pilgrims,  hospital),  a  large  church 
in  the  Garden  of  Gethsemane,  and  the  Russian  buildings  on  the  Mount  of 
Olives  (p.  76 ;  tower,  church,  houses  for  pilgrims).  The  Russian  Palestine 
Society  has  also  erected  a  large,  house  for  pilgrims  close  to  the  Russian  build- 
ings (p.  68)  and  a  hospice  (with  chapel)  near  the  Muristan  (PI.  1,  E  F,  5 ;  p.  47). 
Armenian  Church.  Monastery  near  the  Gate  of  Zion  (p.  35),  with  a 
seminary,  schools  for  boys  and  girls,  and  the  Church  of  St.  James;  Nunnery 
of  Deir  ez-Zeituni  (p.  35) ;  Monastery  of  Mt.  Zion  (p.  72).  —  The  Armenian 
niOLks  wear  pointed  black  hoods.  —  Armenian  Hospice,  see  PI.  E,  7. 

Other  Christian  Churches  and  Monasteries.  Coptic  Monastery  (p. 48; 
the  residence  of  a  bishop);  Coptic  Monastery  of  St.  George.  —  The  Jacobites 
(p.  hi)  have  a  bishop  and  a  small  church,  which  they  regard  as  the  house 
of  .'ohn  surnamed  Mark  (Acts  xii.  12).  —  The  Abyssinian*  have  a  mon- 
astery (p.  47)  and  a  new  church  to  the  N.W.  of  the  town  (PI.  A,  1). 

The  Jews  have  three  large  synagogues  (one  belonging  to  the  Sephardim, 
and  two  to  the  Asbkenazim),  besides  over  70  smaller  houses  of  prayer. 
In  addition  to  the  numerous  places  of  shelter  for  pilgrims  and  the  poor 
(moitly  founded  by  Montefiore,  Rothschild,  and  the  Alliance  Israelite),  the 
Jews  have  five  hospitals  :  the  Rothschild  hospital,  those  of  the  Sephardim,  the 
Ashhenazim,  and  the  German  Jews,  and  one  for  the  insane.  They  have  further 
an  aiylum  and  school  for  blind  children,  a  refuge  for  the  aged,  an  industrial 
school  for  boys  belonging  to  the  Alliance  Israelite,  an  English  school  and 
seminary  for  girls  (Evelina  de  Rothschild  School),  and  a  German  school  for 
boyt.  —  Jewish  Hospices;  German,  see  PI.  F,  7;  Russian,  see  PI.  A-C,  2,  3; 
Spansh,  see  PI.  F,  7. 

3aedekeb's  Palestine  and  Syria.   4th  Edit.  2 


■■■■■■■— 

22    Route  4.  JERUSALEM.  Sitttation. 

Libraries  and  Scientific  Institutions.  —  The  Jerusalem  Association 
Room  of  the  Palestine  Exploration  Fund  is  at  St.  George's  College  (hours, 
8-12  and  2-6);  visitors  are  welcome.  —  Library  of  the  Latin  Patriarchate 
(p.  34).  Library  of  the  Greek  Patriarchate,  in  the  Great  Greek  Monastery  (p.  34), 
containing  2738  Greek  and  other  MSS.,  the  oldest  dating  from  the  10th 
and  11th  centuries.  Jewish  Central  Library  (20,000  vols.)-  Musde  Biblique  dtt 
Peres  Blancs  in  St.  Anne's  Church  (p.  48)..  Musie  de  Notre  Dame  de  Francs. 
All  the  above  are  open  to  visitors.  —  The  Ecole  Pratique  d^Eludes  Bibliqves, 
founded  in  1890,  in  the  Dominican  Monastery  (p.  87),  and  conducted  by 
Fathers  H.  Vincent,  M.  S.  Lagrange,  and  others,  organizes  public  lectures 
upon  archceology  and  the  exploration  of  Palestine,  and  issues  the  'Revue 
biblique  internationnlo'  (Paris:  Lecoffre).  Boarders  are  taken  here  for 
150  fr.  a  month.  The  library  is  open  to  visitors.  —  American  School  for 
Oriental  Study  and  Research  in  Palestine,  founded  in  1900  (library  open  to 
visitors).  —  German  Archaeological  Institute,  founded  in  1902,  and  supported 
by  the  German  Protestant  churches.  Director,  Prof.  Dalman  (library  open 
to  visitors). 

Jerusalem  (Hebrew  Yerushalayim,  Lat.  and  Greek  Hierosolyma, 
Arabic  el-Kuds)  lies  in  31°  47'  N.  lat.  and  35"  15'  E.  long.,  upon 
the  S.  part  of  a  badly  watered  and  somewhat  sterile  plateau  of  lime- 
stone, which  is  connected  towards  the  N.  with  the  main  range  o£ 
the  mountains  of  Palestine  and  surrounded  on  all  the  other  sides  by 
ravines.  The  actual  site  of  the  city  is  also  marked  by  various  ele- 
vations and  depressions.  The  Temple  hill  is~2441  ft.,  the  bill  to 
the  N.  of  it  2527  ft.,  the  W.  hill  2550  ft.,  and  the  N.W.  angle  of; 
the  present  city-wall  2589  ft.  above  the  level  of  the  Mediterranean. 
+  The  town  proper  is  enclosed  by  a  wall  38!/2  ft.  in  height,  forming  , 
I  an  irregular  quadrangle  of  about  21/?  M.  in  circumference;  it  has;; 

eight  gates,  one  of  which  has  been  walled  up  for  centuries.   Thjfi 
two  chief  streets,  beginning  at  the  Jaffa  Gate  on  the  W.  (p.  33)  and 
at  the  Damascus  Gate  on  the  N.  (p.  85),  intersect  in  the  middle  of 
the  town  and  divide  it  into  four  quarters:  the  Muslim  on  the  N.E., 
the  Jewish  on  the  S.E.  (p.  35),  the  Armenian  on  the,  S.W.  (p.  34), 
and  the  Gra;co-Frankish  on  the  N.W.  (comp.  Map  at  p.  72).    The 
streets  are  ill-paved  and  crooked,  many  of  them  being  blind  alleys, 
and  are  excessively  dirty  after  rain.    Some  of  the  bazaar-streets  are] 
vaulted  over.   The  houses  are  built  entirely  of  stone;  all  the  surfaces 
are  so  arranged  as  to  catch  the   rain-water  and  conduct  it  to  the 
cistern  in  the  court.    The  rooms,  covered  with  flat  domes  and  each 
having  its  own  entrance,  are  grouped  round  the  court;  the  passages 
and  staircases  are  left  open  to  the  air.    The  water  of  the  cisterns  is,i 
quite  wholesome  when  olear;  other  sources  of  water  are  the  Foun- 
tain of  the  Virgin  (p.  82)  and  Job's  Well  (comp.  p.  83).    The  ol*l 
aqueduct  of  the  pools  of  Solomon,  restored  in  1901,  serves  almost 
exclusively  for  the  Haram  esh-Sherif  (comp.  pp.  69,  108). 

Of  the  more  recent  suburbs,  the  most  important  is  the  Jaffa 
quarter  on  the  N.W.  (p.  68),  in  which  the  houses  are  more  like  those 
of  Europe.  Here  also  are  several  large  churches,  convents,  hospices, 
charitable  institutions,  and  the  like.  It  is  probable  that  nearly  the 
half  of  the  present  population  of  the  city  is  settled  in  the  suburbs. 

According  to  a  recent  estimate  the  Population  numbers  at  least. 


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23 


Legend  for  the  Flan  of  Jerusalem. 


Antonia,  Castle  of G  3 

Banks,  sec  p.  20. 

Barracks  .   .    .   ,D,EG;  G3,4;G4 

Bazaar,  Old  (Silks)  and  New  E  5 ;  F  5 

Bezetha G,  H  2 

Birket  Hammam  el-Batrak.   .   .  E5 

K   -      Isra'in H  3 

Jlamilla A  4,  5 

Sitti  llaryam 13 

-  es-Sultan C,  D,  7.  8 

Caiaphas,  House  of E  8 

Churches  and  Chapels: 

Abyssinian  A  1.  —  St.  Anne's 
H  3.  -Arab.  Prot.  C  1,2.—  Christ 
Church  E  6.  —  St.  George's 
Chapel  C 7.  —  St.  James's  E  6.  — 
Notre  Dame  de  France  C  3, 4.  — 
Ch.  of  St.  Mary  Magdalen  K  4. 

-  Ch.  of  the  Redeemer  E  5.  — 
Russsian  Cathedral  B  3.  — 
Chapel  of  the  Scourging  G  3.  — 
Ch.  of  the  Holy  Sepulchre  E  4. 

-  St.  Stephen's  El.  —  Ch.  of 
the  Tomb   of  the  Virgin  K  3. 

Citadel  (El-Kal'a) D  6 

4-13.  Consulates,  see  p.  19. 
Convents  and  Monasteries: 

14.  Armenian  Catholic  ....   F  4 

15.  Coptic  (St.  George)  ....  1)  5 

16.  Greek,  of  Abraham    .   .  E  4,  5 

17.  Gethsemane E  5 

18.  St.  Basil 1)4 

l'J.  St.  Caralambos.   ...     E,  F  4 

20.  St.  Demetrius D  5 

21.  St.  Oeorgo  (I) D  4 

22.  St.  George  (11) E  7 

23.  St.  John  the  Baptist .    .    .  E  5 
21.  St.  John  Euthymius  .   .   .  E  4 

25.  St.  Michael D  4 

26.  St.  Nicholas D  4 

2T.  St.  Theodore 1)4 

28  St.  Catherine E  4 

29.  Panagia E  4 

30.  Panagia  Melsena E  5 

31.  United  Greek D  5 

32.  Latin,  St.  Louis    ...     D,  E  5 

33.  -    ,  St.  Salvator.   .   .    .  D  4 

31.  Dervish G  4 

Abyssinian  E  4.  —    Armenian 

E  6. 7.  —  Armenian  Nunnery  of 
Deirez-Zeitun  E7. —  Armenian, 
ofMt.ZionKS.—  Coptic  E4.— 
Dominican  El.  —  Oreek(Great) 
D,E  4,5.—  Greek  (New)  E  3.  — 
Greek,  of  the  Cross,  beyond 
A  5,  6.  —  Muslim  F  2,  3.  — 
Sisters  of  8t.Vincent  B,C,  4, 5.— 
Sisters  of  Zion  G  3.  —  Sueurs 
Reparatrices  C  4.  —  Syrian  E  6. 


Cotton  Grotto F,  G,  2,  3 

Dormition E  8 

Fountain  of  the  Virgin     ....   H  7 

Garden  of  Gethsemane K  4 

Gates  of  the  Town:  Bab 'Abdul 
Ilamid  (New  Gate)  C  1)  4.  — 
Bab  el-rAmud  (Damascus  Gate) 
E3.  —  Bab  el-Chalil  (Jaffa  Gate) 
D  5,  6.  —  Bab  el-Mugharibeh 
(Moghrebins'  Gate)  G  6,7.  — Bab 
en-Nebi  Daiid  (Gate  of  Zion) 
E,  F  7,  8.  —  Bab  es-Sahireh 
(Herod's  Gate)  G  2.-  Bab  Sitti 
Maryam  (St.  Stephen's  Gate) 
I  3.— Valley  Gate  (ancient)  E  9. 

Goliath,  Castle  of C  4 

Hammam     esh-Shifa    (Pool    of 

'  Bethesda) G  5 

Haram  esh-Sherif G-I  3-6 

Hospices,  see  pp.  19-21. 
Hospitals:     French     (St.    Louis) 
C  4.  —  Greek  D  5.   —  Jewish 
(Rothschild's)  A  1,  2.  —  Rus- 
sian B  3. 

Jeremiah,  Grotto  of V  1,  2 

Jewish  Colonies  :  A3.  —  D  2.  — 
(Montefiore's)  C  8,  9.  Oomp. 
also  Map  of  Environs,  p.  72. 

El-Ma'muniyeh  (ruin) G  2 

Mehkemeh  (House  of  Judgment)  G  5 
Mosques : 

El-Aksa H  5,  6 

Kubbet  es  -  Sakhra    (Dome  of 

the  Rock)'  . H5 

Mesjid  e.l-Kurami F5 

-       el-Majaliidin    ...     G,  H  3 
36.  Mosque  of  Sidna  'Omar  .    .   E  5 

Miiristan B  5 

En-Nebi  Daiid E  8 

Patriarch's  Pool E  5 

Patriarchates:  Armenian  E  7. — 
Greek  D,  E,  4.  —  Latin  C,  1),  5. 
Post  Offices,  see  p.  19. 
Schools:     Of    the    Greek    Patri- 
archate  D  6 

35.  Latin  Parochial,   for    boys  D  4 

Seminary,  Armenian E  7 

Serai  F  4.  —  (Old)  G  4. 

Synagogues  (S) E,  F  5-7 

Tombs  :  Ancient  D,  E,  1 ;  I  7 ;  K  2 ; 
K  4.  —  Near  Karcm  esh-Sheik 
G  H,  1.  — Of  thoKings,bevond 
E  1.  —  Of  Absalom  I  5.  —  Of 
Christ  (ace.  to  Conder)  D,E,  2; 
(ace.  to  Gordon)  E  i.  —  Of 
David,  see  En-Nebi  Daiid.  — 
Of  Herod  B  8.  —  Of  Jacob  and 
Zacharias  I  5. 
Wailing  Place  of  the  Jews    .  G  5,6 


24    Route  4. 


JERUSALEM. 


History. 


00,000,  of  whom  about  7000  arc  Muslims,  40, 000  Jews,  and  13,000 
Christians.  The  Christians  include  4000  Latins  (e .  g.  Roman  Catho- 
lics), 200  United  Greeks,  50  United  Armenians,  6000  Orthodox 
Greeks,  800  Armenians,  150  Copts,  100  Abyssinians,  100  Syrians, 
and  1400  Protestants.  The  number  of  Jems  has  greatly  risen  in  the 
last  few  decades,  in  spite  of  the  fact  that  they  are  forbidden  to  im- 
migrate or  to  possess  landed  property.  The  majority  subsist  on  the 
charity  of  their  European  brethren  ,  from  whom  they  receive  their 
regular  khaluka,  or  allowance,  and  for  whom  they  pray  at  the  holy 
places.  Sir  Mopes  Monteflore,  Baron  Rothschild,  and  others,  together 
with  the  Alliance  Israelite,  have  done  much  to  ameliorate  the  con- 
dition of  their  poor  brethren  at  Jerusalem  by  their  munificent  bene- 
factions. The  most  powerful  religious  community  is  that  of  the  Or- 
thodox Greeks.  The  Russian  Mission  is  concerned  with  national  and 
political  ends  as  well  as  with  ecclesiastical  affairs.  The  strong  Ar- 
menian colony  dates  its  importance  from  the  middle  of  the  18th  cen- 
tury. The  Latins  have  attained  their  present  influential  position 
mainly  through  the  exertions  of  the  Franciscans.  The  office  of  pa- 
triarch, which  was  suppressed  in  1291,  was  restored  in  1847.  Asso- 
ciated with  the  patriarch  are  a  bishop  and  the  abbot  of  the  Franciscan 
monastery,  who  is  the  'Custodian  of  the  Holy  Land'.  The  British 
and  American  inhabitants  of  Jerusalem  are  about  150  in  number. 
German  Templars  (pp.10  and  09)  number  about  400,  chiefly  traces- 
men  and  workmen,  the  German  Evangelical  community  about  200. 
Government.  Jerusalem  is  the  residence  of  a  Mutesarrif  of  the 
first  class,  immediately  subject  to  the  Porte  (see  p.  lvii).  The  organs 
of  government  are  the  Mejlis  idara  (executive  council;  president, 
the  governor)  and  the  Mejlis  beledlyeh  (town-council:  president,  the 
mayor).  In  both  these  councils  the  fully  -  qualified  confessions 
(Greeks,  Latins,  Protestants,  Armenians,  and  Jews)  have  represeita- 
tives.  —  The  garrison  consists  of  a  battalion  of  infantry. 

History.  Egyptian  sources  (p.  lxxv)  testify  that  Vrusalim  hild  a 
prominent  place  among  the  cities  of  S.  Palestine  as  early  as  liOO 
B.C.  The  town  was  named  Jehus,  and  was  distinguished  as  the 
chief  stronghold  of  the  Jebusites  when  David  captured  it  (2  Sim. 
v.  6-10).  He  selected  it  for  his  residence  and  built  the  Citij  of 
David.  Solomon  did  much  to  beautify  the  city  and  erected  a  magni- 
ficent palace  and  temple  (p.  51)  on  Mt.  Zion.  He  also  built  Killo 
(1  Kings  ix.  24;  xi.  27),  a  kind  of  bastion  or  fort.  During  his  oign 
Jerusalem  first  became  the  headquarters  of  the  Israelites.  After 
the,  division  of  the  kingdom  it  became  the  capital  of  Judah.  As 
early  as  Rehoboam's  reign,  the  city  was  compelled  to  suireide] 
to  the  Egyptian  king  Shishak,  on  which  occasion  the  Tcmpleand 
palace  were  despoiled  of  part  of  their  golden  ornaments.  Aboutonc 
hundred  years  later,  under  King  Jehoram,  the  Temple  was  araiii 
plundered  by  Arabian  and  Philistine  tribes  (2  Chron.  xxi.    7). 


History, 


JERUSALEM. 


4.  Route.    25 


Sixty  years  later  Jehoash,  King  of  Israel,  having  defeated  Ania- 
z;iah  of  jJudah,  entered  the  city  in  triumph  (2  Kings  xiv.  13,  14). 
UJzziah,  the  son  of  Amaziah,  re-established  the  prosperity  of  Jeru- 
salem. During  this  period,  however,  Jerusalem  was  visited  by  a 
gjreat  earthquake. 

On  the  approach  of  Sennacherib  the  fortifications  were  repaired  by 
Efiezekiah  (20hron.xxxii.r>),  to  whom  also  was  due  the  great  merit  of 
providing  Jerusalem  with  water.  Probably  the  only  spring  at  Jerusalem 
was  the  fountain  of  Gihon  on  the  E.  slope  of  the  Temple  hill,  outside 
tllie  city-wall  (now  called  the  Fountain  of  the  Virgin,  p.  82).  By 
mieans  of  a  subterranean  channel  Hezekiah  conducted  tlie  water 
olf  the  spring  to  the  pool  of  Siloam  (2  Kings  xx,  20 ;  see  p.  83), 
which  lay  within  the  walls.  Cisterns  and  reservoirs  for  the  storage 
olf  rain-water  were  also  constructed.  The  pools  on  the  W.  side  of 
tine  city  (Birket  Mamilla,  p.  68;  Birket  es-Sultan,  p.  69)  were  prob- 
albly  formed  before  the  period  of  the  captivity,  as  was  also  the  large 
n  stivuir  which  still  excites  our  admiration  to  the  N.  of  the  Temple 
p  lutein  (p.  67),  and  in  the  formation  of  which  advantage  was  taken 
off  a  small  valley,  whose  depth  was  at  the  same  time  destined  to 
pirotect  the  site  of  the  Temple  on  the  N.  side.  A  besieging  army 
outside  the  city-walls  generally  suffered  severely  from  want  of  water, 
M  the  issues  of  the  conduits  towards  the  country  could  be  closed, 
Avhile  the  city  always  possessed  water  in  abundance.  The  valleys  of 
Kidron  and  llinnom  must  have  ceased  to  be  watered  by  streams  at 
a  very  early  period. 

Hezekiah  on  the  whole  reigned  prosperously,  but  the  policy  of 
his  successors  soon  involved  the  city  in  ruin.  In  the  reign  of  Jehoi- 
aehin,  it  was  compelled  to  surrender  at  discretion  to  King  Nebu- 
chadnezzar. Again  the  Temple  and  the  royal  palace  were  pillaged, 
and  a  great  number  of  the  citizens,  including  King  Jehoiachin,  the 
nobles,  7000  'men  of  might',  1000  craftsmen  and  their  families,  were 
carried  away  captive  to  the  East  (2  Kings  xxiv.  15  et  seq.).  Those 
who  were  left  having  made  a  hopeless  attempt  under  Zedekiah  to 
revolt  against  their  conquerors ,  Jerusalem  now  had  to  sustain  a 
long  and  terrible  siege  (1  year,  5  months,  and  7  days).  Pestilence 
and  famine  meanwhile  ravaged  the  city.  The  defence  was  a  desperate 
one,  and  every  inch  of  the  ground  was  keenly  contested.  The  Baby- 
lonians carried  off  all  the  treasures  that  still  remained,  the  Temple 
of  Solomon  was  burned  to  the  ground,  and  Jerusalem  was  in  great 
part  destroyed. 

When  the  Jews  returned  from  captivity,  they  once  more  settled 
in  Jerusalem,  the  actual  rebuilding  of  which  was  the  work  of  Nehe- 
miah  (p.  lxxviii).  He  re-fortified  the  city,  retaining  the  foundations 
of  the  former  walls,  although  these  now  enclosed  a  far  larger  space 
than  was  necessary  for  the  Teduced  population  (p.  31). 

The  convulsions  of  the  following  centuries  affected  Jerusalem 
but  slightly.     The  city  opened  its  gates  to  Alexander)  and  after  his 


26 


Route  4. 


JERUSALEM. 


Historv. 


death  passed  into  the  hands  of  the  Ptolemies  in  the  year  320.  It 
was  not  till  the  time  of  Antiochus  Epiphanes  (175-164)  that,  it  agau.in 
became  a  theatre  of  bloodshed.  On  his  return  from  Egypt,  Antioch  us 
plundered  the  Temple.  Two  years  afterwards  he  sent  thither  a 
chief  collector  of  tribute,  who  razed  the  walls  and  established  himself 
in  a  stronghold  in  the  centre  of  the  city.  This  was  the  Akra,  the  site 
of  which  is  disputed.  As  it  is  expressly  stated  to  have  stood  on  t  he 
site  of  the  City  of  David  (1  Mace.  i.  33;  ii.  31 ;  vii.  31 ;  xiv.  30),  it 
must  probably  be  located  to  the  S.  of  the  Temple.  Some  authorities 
place  it,  however,  to  the  N.YV.  of  the  Temple. 

Judas  Maccabaeus  (p.  lxix)  recaptured  the  city,  but  not  the  Akra, 
and  lie  fortilied  the  hill  of  the  Temple.  But  after  the  battle  of  Betli- 
Zachariah  (p.  112),  Antiochus  V.  Eupator  caused  the  walls  of  'Zion' 
to  be  taken  down  (I  Mace.  vi.  61  et  seq.),  in  violation,  it  is  said,  of  his 
sworn  treaty.  Jonathan,  the  Maccabaean,  however,  caused  a  stronger 
wall  than  ever  to  be  erected  (1  Mace.  x.  11).  He  constructed  another 
wall  between  the  Akra,  which  was  still  occupied  by  a  Syrian  gar- 
rison, and  the  city,  whereby,  at  a  later  period,  under  Simon  (  B.C. 
141),  the  citizens  were  enabled  to  reduce  the  garrison  by  famine. 
Under  John  Hy  roan  us,  the  son  of  Simon,  Jerusalem  was  again  taken 
by  the  Syrians  (under  Antiochus  VII.  Sidetes)  in  134.  The  walls 
were  demolished ,  but  after  the  fall  of  Antiochus  VII.  Hyrcanus 
restored  them,  at  the  same  time  fortifying  the  Baris  (see  below)  in 
the  N.W.  angle  of  the  Temple  precincts  and  pulling  down  the  Akra. 

Internal  dissensions  at  length  led  to  the  intervention  of  the 
Romans.  Pompey  besieged  the  city,  and  again  the  attacks  were 
concentrated  against  the  Temple  precincts.  The  quarter  to  the  N.  of 
the  Temple,  as  well  as  the  Gate  of  St.  Stephen,  do  not  appear  to 
have  existed  at  that  period.  The  moat  on  the  N.  side  of  the  Temple 
was  filled  up  by  the  Romans  on  a  Sabbath;  they  then  entered  tae 
city  by  the  embankment  they  had  thrown  up,  and,  exasperated  by 
the  obstinate  resistance  they  had  encountered,  committed  fearful 
ravages  within  the  Temple  precincts.  In  this  struggle,  no  fewer 
than  12,000  Jews  are  said  to  have  perished.  To  the  great  sorrow  of 
the  Jews,  Pompey  penetrated  into  their  inmost  sanctuary,  but  he 
left  their  treasures  untouched.  These  were  carried  off  by  Orassus 
a  few  years  later.  — Internal  discord  at  Jerusalem  next  gave  rise 
to  the  intervention  of  the  Parthians,  B.  C.  40. 

In  37  Herod,  with  the  aid  of  the  Romans,  captured  the  city 
after  a  gallant  defence,  which  so  infuriated  the  victors  that  they 
gave  orders  for  a  general  massacre.  Herod,  who  now  obtained  the 
supreme  power,  embellished  and  fortified  the  city,  and  altove  all, 
he  rebuilt  the  Temple  (p.  51).  He  then  re-fortified  the  Baris 
and  named  it  Antonia  in  honour  of  his  Roman  patron.  He  also 
built  himself  a  sumptuous  palace  on  the  N.W.  side  of  the  upper 
city.  This  building  is  said  to  have  contained  a  number  of  Halls, 
peristyles,  inner  courts  with  lavish  enrichments,  and  richly  decorated 


History. 


JERUSALEM. 


4.  Route. 


27 


columns.  On  the  N.  side  of  the  royal  palace  stood  three  large  towers 
of  defence,  named  the  Hippicus,  PhasaU,  and  Mariamne  respectively 
(r  imp.  p.  33).  According  to  Roman  custom,  Herod  also  built  a 
tli  eatre  at  Jerusalem ,  and  at  the  same  time  a  town-hall  and  the 
Xystus,  a  space  for  gymnastic  games  surrounded  by  colonnades.  At 
this  period  Jerusalem,  with  its  numerous  palaces  and  handsome  edi- 
ftoee,  the  sumptuous  Temple  witli  its  colonnades,  and  the  lofty  city- 
walls  with  their  bastions,  must  have  presented  a  very  striking- 
appearance.  The  wall  of  the  old  town  had  sixty  towers,  and  that  of 
the  small  suburb  to  the  N.  of  it  fourteen;  but  the  populous  city  must 
have  extended  much  farther  to  the  N.,  and  we  must  picture  to  our- 
selves in  this  direction  numerous  villas  standing  in  gardens.  Such 
was  the  character  of  the  city  in  the  time  of  Our  Lord,  but  in  the 
interior  the  streets,  though  paved,  were  narrow  and  crooked.  The 
population  must  have  been  very  crowded,  especially  on  the  occasion 
of  festivals.  Josephus  states  that  on  one  occasion  the  Roman  governor 
caused  the  paschal  lambs  to  be  counted,  and  found  that  they 
amounted  to  the  vast  number  of  270,000,  whence  we  may  infer  that 
the  number  of  partakers  was  not  less  than  2,700,000,  though  this 
statement  is  probably  much  exaggerated. 

After  the  death  of  Christ,  Agrippa  I.  at  length  erected  a  wall 
which  enclosed  the  whole  of  the  N.  suburb  within  the  precincts  of 
the  city.  This  wall  was  composed  of  huge  blocks  of  stone,  and  is 
said  to  have  been  defended  by  ninety  towers.  The  strongest  of 
these  was  the  Psephinus  tower  at  the  N.W.  angle,  which  was  up- 
wards of  100  ft.  in  height,  and  stood  on  the  highest  ground  in 
the  city  (2572  ft.  above  the  sea-level;  comp.  p.  34).  From  fear  of 
incurring  the  displeasure  of  the  Emperor  Claudius,  the  wall  was  left 
unfinished,  and  it  was  afterwards  completed  in  a  less  substantial 
style.    Comp.  p.  32. 

At  this  time  there  were  two  antagonistic  parties  at  Jerusalem  : 
the  fanatical  Zealots  under  Eleazar,  who  advocated  a  desperate  re- 
volt against  the  Romans,  and  a  more  moderate  party  under  the 
High  Priest  Ananias.  Florus,  the  Roman  governor,  having  caused 
many  unoffending  Jews  to  be  put  to  death,  a  fearful  insurrection 
broke  out  in  the  city.  Herod  Agrippa  II.  and  Lis  sister  Berenice 
endeavoured  to  pacify  the  insurgents  and  to  act  as  mediators,  but 
were  obliged  to  seek  refuge  in  flight.  The  Zealots  had  already 
gained  possession  of  the  Temple  precincts.  After  a  terrible  struggle 
they  succeeded  in  capturing  the  upper  city  and  the  castle  of  Herod. 
Cestius  Callus,  an  incompetent  Roman  general,  now  besieged  the 
city,  but  when  lie  had  almost  achieved  success  he  gave  up  the  siege, 
and  withdrew  towards  the  N.  to  Gibeon.  His  camp  was  there  at- 
tacked by  the  Jews  and  his  army  dispersed.  The  Zealots  now  pro- 
ice  led  to  organize  an  insurrection  throughout  the  whole  of  Palestine. 

The  Romans  now  despatched  their  able  general  Vespasian  with 
(>0,)00  men  to  Palestine.    This  Vespasian  army  first  quelled  the 


28    Route  4. 


JERUSALEM. 


History. 


insurrection  in  Galilee  (A.  D.  67),  and  it  was  not  till  after  a  great 
part  of  Palestine  had  been  conquered  that  lie  advanced  against 
Jerusalem.  Events  at  Rome  compelled  him,  however,  to  entrust  the 
continuation  of  the  campaign  to  his  son  Titus.  Within  Jerusalem 
itself  bands  of  robbers  had  in  the  meantime  taken  possession  of  the 
Temple,  and  summoned  to  their  aid  the  Iduma?ans  (Edomites ),  the 
ancient  hereditary  enemies  of  the  Jews.  The  moderate  party,  with 
Ananias,  its  leader,  was  annihilated,  and  no  fewer  than  1'2,000  persons 
of  noble  family  are  said  to  have  perished  on  this  occasion.  "When  the 
Romans  approached  Jerusalem  there  were  no  fewer  than  four  parties 
within  its  walls.  The  Zealots  under  John  of  Giscala  occupied  the 
castle  of  Antonia  and  the  court  of  the  Gentiles,  while  the  robber  party 
under  Simon  of  Gerasa  held  the  'upper  city';  Eleazar's  party  was  in 
possession  of  the  inner  Temple  and  the  court  of  the  Jews;  and, 
lastly,  the  moderate  party  was  also  established  in  the  upper  part  of 
the  city.  At  the  beginning  of  April,  A.  D.  70,  Titus  had  assembled 
six  legions  (each  of  about  6000  men)  in  the  environs  of  Jerusalem. 
He  posted  the  main  body  of  his  furccs  to  the  N.  and  N.W.  of  the 
city,  while  one  legion  occupied  the  Mt.  of  Olives.  On  April  23rd 
the  besieging  engines  were  brought  up  to  the  W.  wall  of  the  new 
town  ( near  the  present  Jaffa  Gate ) ;  on  May  7th  the  Romans  effected 
their  entrance  into  the  new  town.  Five  days  afterwards  Titus  endeav- 
oured to  storm  the  second  wall,  but  was  repulsed;  but  three  days 
later  he  succeeded  in  taking  it,  and  he  then  caused  the  whole  N. 
side  of  the  wall  to  be  demolished.  He  now  sent  Josephus,  who  was 
present  in  his  camp,  to  summon  the  Jews  to  surrender,  but  in  win. 
Titus  thereupon  caused  the  city-wall ,  33 Tstadia  in  length ,  to  be 
surrounded  by  a  wall  of  39  stadia  in  length.  Now  that  the  city  was 
completely  surrounded,  a  terrible  famine  ensued.  At  length,  on  the 
night  of  July  5th,  the  castle  was  stormed.  The  Jews  still  retained  pos- 
session of  the  gates  of  the  Temple,  though  by  degrees  the  coloniudes 
of  the  Temple  were  destroyed  by  fire;  yet  every  foot  of  the  ground 
was  desperately  contested.  At  last,  on  August  10th,  a  Roman  sol  tier 
is  said  to  have  thing  a  firebrand  into  the  Temple,  contrary  to  the 
express  commands  of  Titus.  The  whole  building  was  burned  to  the 
ground,  and  the  soldiers  slew  all  who  came  within  their  reach  A 
body  of  Zealots,  however,  contrived  to  force  their  passage  to  the 
upper  part  of  the  city,  and  it  was  not  till  September  7th  that  itwas 
burned  down.  Jerusalem  was  now  a  heap  of  ruins;  those  of  the 
surviving  citizens  who  had  fought  against  the  Romans  were  executed, 
and  the  rest  sold  as  slaves. 

At  length,  in  130,  the  Emperor  Hadrian  (117-138)  erectdl  a 
town  on  the  site  of  the  Holy  City,  which  he  named  Aelia  Capitoana, 
or  simply  Aelia.  Hadrian  also  rebuilt  the  walls,  which  followed 
the  course  of  the  old  walls  in  the  main,  but  were  narrower  towirds 
the  S.,  so  as  to  exclude  the  greater  part  of  the  W.  hill  an  I  of 
Ophel.     Once  more  the  fury  of  the  Jews  blazed    forth  under  Bar 


t,7rf* 


History. 


JERUSALEM. 


4.  Route.    29 


C(ochba  (132),  but  after  that  period  the  history  of  the  city  was  for 
cemturies  buried  in  profound  obscurity,  and  the  Jews  were  prohibited 
umder  severe  penalties  from  setting  foot  within  its  walls. 

With  the  recognition  of  Christianity  as  the  religion  of  the  state 
a  new  era  begins  in  the  history  of  the  city.  Constantine  permitted 
the  Jews  to  return  to  Jerusalem,  and  once  more  they  made  an 
atltempt  to  take  up  arms  against  the  Romans  (339).  The  Emperor 
Juilian  the  Apostate  favoured  them  in  preference  to  the  Christians, 
and  even  permitted  them  to  rebuild  their  Temple,  but  they  made 
a  lfeeble  attempt  only  to  avail  themselves  of  this  permission.  At  a 
latter  period  they  were  again  excluded  from  the  city. 

As  an  episcopal  see,  Jerusalem  was  subordinate  to  Caesarea.  An 
independent  patriarchate  for  Palestine  was  established  at  Jerusalem 
by  the  Council  of  Chalcedon  in  451.  Pilgrimages  to  Jerusalem  soon 
became  very  frequent,  and  the  Emperor  Justinian  is  said  to  have 
erected  a  hospice  for  strangers,  as  well  as  several  churches  and  mon- 
asteries in  and  around  Jerusalem.  In  570  there  were  in  Jerusalem 
hoispices  with  3000  beds.  Pope  Gregory  the  Great  and  several  of  the 
western  nations  likewise  erected  buildings  for  the  accommodation  of 
pilgrims,  and,  at  the  same  time,  a  thriving  trade  in  relics  of  every 
description  began  to  be  carried  on  at  Jerusalem. 

The  mosaic  map  of  Palestine  discovered  at  Madeba(p.  147;  comp. 
Z.  D.P.V.  xxvm,  120  et  seq.),  which  contains  the  oldest  known 
plan  of  Jerusalem,  probably  dates  from  this  period  (6th  cent.). 
The  walls  of  the  city  are  represented  as  protected  by  strong  towers. 
The  chief  gate  (the  present  Damascus  Gate)  is  to  the  N. ;  inside 
this  is  an  open  space  containing  a  large  column  (p.  85).  From  the 
gate  itself  a  colonnaded  street  runs  to  the  S.,  traversing  the  entire 
city.  A  few  of  its  columns  are  still  extant  (p.  47),  at  the  point  where 
the  propylaea  of  the  basilica  rise  above  the  Holy  Sepulchre,  im- 
mediately to  the  W.  of  the  street.  Other  columns  have  also  been 
found  on  the  Assumptionists'  concession  on  Mount  Zion.  The  great 
Church  of  Zion  (p.  70)  stood  at  the  S.  end  of  the  street. 

In  614  Jerusalem  was  taken  by  the  Persians  and  the  churches 
destroyed,  but  it  was  soon  afterwards  restored,  chiefly  with  the  aid 
of  the  Egyptians.  In  628  the  Byzantine  emperor  Heraclius  again 
conquered  Syria.  In  637  the  city  was  captured  by  the  Khalif  fOmar 
after  a  gallant  defence.  The  inhabitants,  who  are  said  to  have  num- 
bered 50,000,  were  treated  with  clemency,  and  permitted  to  remain 
in  the  city  on  payment  of  a  poll-tax.  The  Khalif  Harun  er-Itashid 
is  even  said  to  have  sent  the  keys  of  the  Holy  Sepulchre  to  Charle- 
magne. The  Roman- German  emperors  sent  regular  contributions 
for  the  support  of  the  pilgrims  bound  for  Jerusalem ,  and  it  was 
only  at  a  later  period  that  the  Christians  began  to  be  oppressed  by 
the  Muslims.  The  town  was  named  by  the  Arabs  Beit  el-Makdis 
('house  of  the  sanctuary'),  or  simply  El-K%ids  ('the  sanctuary'). 

In  969  Jerusalem  fell  into  possession  of  the  Egyptian  Fatimitea; 


&imMiQHf'ii9WBt&gmiigmgw&m    &$$$ii 


30     Route  4. 


JERUSALEM. 


Topography . 


in  the  second  half  of  the  11th  cent,  it  was  involved  in  the  conflicts 
of  the  Turcomans.  During  the  First  Crusade  the  Christian  army 
advanced  to  the  walls  of  Jerusalem  on  June  7th,  1099.  Robort  of 
Normandy  and  Robert  of  Flanders  were  posted  on  the  N.  side;  on 
the  W.  Godfrey  and  Tailored;  on  the  W.,  too,  hut  also  on  the  S., 
was  Raymond  of  Toulouse.  When  the  engines  were  erected,  Godfrey 
attacked  the  city,  chiefly  from  the  S.  and  E.;  Tancred  assaulted  it 
on  the  N.,  and  the  Damascus  Gate  was  opened  to  him  from  within. 
On  July  15th  the  Gate  of  Zion  was  also  opened,  and  the  1  ranks 
entered  the  city.  They  slew  most  of  the  Muslim  and  Jewi-h  In- 
habitants, and  converted  the  mosques  into  churches. 

In  1187  (Oct.  2nd)  Salad  in  captured  the  city,  treating  the 
Christians,  many  of  whom  had  fled  to  the  surrounding  villages, 
with  great  leniency.  Three  years  later,  when  Jerusalem  was  again 
threatened  by  the  Franks  (Third  Crusade),  Saladin  caused  the 
city  to  be  strongly  fortified.  In  1219,  however,  Sultan  Melik  el- 
Mu'azzam  of  Damascus  caused  most  of  these  works  to  be  demol- 
ished, as  he  feared  that  the  Franks  might  again  capture  the  oity 
and  establish  themselves  there  permanently.  In  1229  Jerusalem 
was  surrendered  to  the  Emperor  Frederick  11.,  on  condition  that  the 
walls  should  not  be  rebuilt,  but  this  stipulation  was  disregarded  by 
the  Franks.  In  1239  the  city  was  taken  by  the  Emir  David  of  Kerak, 
hut  four  years  later  it  was  again  given  up  to  the  Christians  by 
treaty.  In  1244  the  Kharezmians  took  the  place  by  storm,  and  it 
soon  fell  under  the  supremacy  of  the  Eyyubides.  Since  that  period 
Jerusalem  has  been  a  Muslim  city.  In  1517  it  fell  into  the  hands 
of  the  Osmans. 


Topography  of  Ancient  Jerusalem  ( comp.  adjoining  Plan).  The 
earliest  city  occupied  the  S.  part  only  of  the  present  city;  but  on 
the  S.  it  extended  beyond  the  present  city-wall  to  the  edge  of  the 
rocky  plateau,  where  remains  of  the  old  fortifications  have  been 
discovered  (p.  70).  The  E.  scarp  of  the  plateau  was  once  much 
more  abrupt  than  it  is  at  present.  Through  the  accumulation  of 
the  rubbish  of  thousands  of  years,  the  lowest  part  of  the  Kidron 
Valley  (p.  79)  is  now  30  ft.  farther  to  the  E.  than  it  used  to  be, 
while  at  the  S.E.  corner  of  the  Temple  Hill  it  was  formerly  36  ft. 
deeper  than  it  now  is.  The  actual  site  of  the  city  was  also  n  ueh 
less  level  than  at  present;  what  is  now  recognisable  only  is  a 
shallow  depression  was  formerly  a  distinct  valley,  running  from 
the  vicinity  of  the  present  Damascus  Gate  first  towards  the  S.E. 
and  then  towards  the  S.  This  depression  (p.  49),  called  by  Josephus 
Tyropoeon,  i.e.  Valley  of  Dung  (wrongly  translated  the  Cheese- 
mongers' Valley),  but  not  mentioned  in  the  Bible,  attained  a  depth 
of  about  CO  ft.  below  the  present  level  (p.  66)  and  separated  tho 
narrow  and  abrupt  E.  hill  from  the  \V.  hill,  which  was  110  ft. 
higher.    Both  hills  were  also  cross-sectioned  by  other  depressions. 


ANCIENT  JERUSALEM. 

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Topography. 


JERUSALEM. 


4.  Route,    ol 


In  the  earlier  parts  of  the  Old  Testament  Mount  Zion  and  Jeru- 
salerm.  are  clearly  distinguished  from  each  other  (comp.  Is.  x.  12). 
MoiuntZion  was  the  dwelling-place  of  Jehovah  (Joeliv.  21;  Micah 
iv.  22 ;  Is.  viii.  18),  and  the  site  of  the  Castle  of  David  (1  Chron.  xi.  7). 
As  ttlie  Temple  undoubtedly  stood  upon  the  E.  hill,  we  must  there- 
fore' recognize  it  as  Mount  Zion  and  place  the  town  proper  on  the 
W.  hill,  opposite  the  Castle  of  David.  The  tradition  which  assumes 
thatt  the  Castle  lay  on  the  S.  end  of  the  W.  hill  (comp.  p.  70)  is 
explained  by  the  popular  designation  of  the  whole  of  Jerusalem  as 
the  'Daughter  of  Zion'  (Is.  lxii.  11).  The  name  Moriah  also  occurs 
occasionally  as  the  religious  designation  of  the  Temple  Hill  (Gen. 
xxm.  2;  2  Chron.  in.  1).  To  the  N.  of  the  Castle  of  David  rose  the 
Temple  and  Palace  of  Solomon,  the  level  surface  required  for  which 
was  provided  by  enormous  substructures.  The  Temple  lay  on  the 
site  of  the  present  Dome  of  the  Rock  (p.  51),  the  Palace  immediate- 
ly tio  the  S.  of  it  (Ezek.  xliii.  7,  8),  approximately  on  the  site  of 
the  Aksa.  Mosque  (p.  58),  where  the  rock  forms  a  broad  ridge.  The 
Palaice  thus  lay  below  the  Temple  but  above  the  Castle  of  David 
(cormp.  1  Kings  ix.  24). 

'The  Fiiist  Wall,  that  of  David  and  Solomon,  enclosed  the  old 
part  of  the  town.  Beginning  on  the  W.  at  the  Furnace  Tower  (which 
perhaps  stood  on  the  site  later  occupied  by  the  Tower  of  Hippicus), 
it  followed  the  upper  verge  of  the  W.  hill  on  the  W.  and  S.  sides, 
thus;  enclosing  the  modern  suburb  of  Zion  (comp.  p.  70).  On  the 
S.  side  were  probably  two  gates,  leading  to  the  S.  from  the  upper 
city,,  viz.  the  Valley  Oate,  near  the  S.W.  angle,  and  the  Dung  Gate, 
farther  to  the  E.  The  wall  was  then  carried  in  a  double  line  across 
the  Tyropceon,  at  the  mouth  of  which  was  the  'Well  Gate',  probably 
identical  with  the  'fiate  between  two  Walls'.  From  the  Pool  of 
Siloam  (p.  83)  the  wall  ascended  the  hill  northwards  to  the  wall  of 
the  Temple.  In  the  Ophel  quarter,  which  lay  to  the  S.E.  of  the 
present  llaram,  was  the '  Water  Gate1,  and  farther  to  the  N.  was  the 
'■Horse  Gate'  (a  gate  of  the  Temple).  From  the  Hippicus  the  N.  wall 
ran  E.  in  an  almost  straight  line  to  the  Temple.  Immediately  to 
the  S.  of  this  N.  wall  stood  the  palace  of  Herod,  the  Xystus,  and 
the  bridge  which  crossed  the  Tyropceon  to  the  Temple. 

The  Second  Wall  also  dates  from  the  period  of  the  early  kings; 
it  was  rebuilt  by  Nehemiah.  On  the  W.,  S.,  and  E.  it  corresponds 
with  the  First  Wall,  but  it  diverges  from  it  to  the  N.W.  at  the 
Hippicus,  thus  enclosing  more  ground  to  the  N.,  the  only  direction 
in  which  the  city  could  be  extended.  Josephus  here  placed  the 
Gennat  Gate  {i.e.  Garden  Gate,  perhaps  the  Corner  Gate  of  the  Bible). 
Thence  the  wall  made  a  curve  to  the  N.E.,  interrupted  by  the  Gate 
ofEphraim,  the  Old  Gate,  and  the  Fish  Gate,  and  impinging  on  the 
N.W.  angle  of  the  Temple  precincts.  Here  rose  the  Bira,  a  strong 
bastion  called  Baris  by  Josephus  and  afterwards  named  Anlonia 
(comp.  p.  26).     This  part  of  the  N.  wall  was  further  strengthened 


32    Route  i. 


JERUSALEM. 


Literature. 


toy  the  towers  of  Hananeel  and  Mea,  the  exact  positions  of  which 
are  still  undetermined.  On  the  direction  assigned  to  this  second  wall 
depends  the  question  of  the  genuineness  of  the  'Holy  Sepulchre'.  A 
nurntoer  of  authorities  helieve  that  the  wall  took  much  the  same 
direction  as  the  present  town-wall,  in  which  case  it  would  have 
included  what  is  now  called  the  'Holy  Sepulchre',  which,  therefore, 
could  not  he  genuine  (p.  35).  Others,  relying  on  the  Russian  ex- 
cavations opposite  the  Muristan,  hold  that  the  wall  and  moat  ran  round 
the  E.  and  S.  sides  of  Golgotha.  To  the  S.E.  of  the  Baris  lay  the 
Sheep  Gate,  and  in  its  vicinity  (John  v.  2)  the  Pool  of  Bethesda 
(p.  67). 

With  regard  to  the  situation  of  the  Third  Wall,  topograph  ere 
likewise  disagree.  Those  who  hold  that  the  second  wall  corresponded 
to  the  present  town-wall  (see  atoove)  must  look  for  the  third  wall 
far  to  the  N.  of  it.  The  opinion  now  generally  accepted  is  that  this 
wall  occupied  nearly  the  same  site  as  the  present  N.  town-wall  of 
Jerusalem;  there  are  still  clear  traces  of  an  old  moat  round  the 
present  N.  wall,  and  this  view  appears  to  he  confirmed  toy  the  state- 
ment of  the  distances  given  hy  Josephus  (4  stadia  to  the  royal  tomhs, 
7  stadia  to  the  Scopus),  who,  however,  is  not  always  accurate.  But 
the  question  as  to  the  situation  of  the  second  and  third  walls  is  hy 
no  means  settled. 

literature.  The  best  works  on  Jerusalem  are  Barclay's  'City  of  the 
Great  King',  Besant  <fc  Palmer's  'Jerusalem,  the  City  of  Herod  and  Saladin' 
(4ih  ed.,  London,  1899),  Warren's  'Underground  Jerusalem'' (London,  1876), 
Wilson  <fc  Warren's,  'Recovery  of  Jerusalem''  (London,  1871),  Toiler's  'Denk- 
blatter'  (St.  Gallen,  1853)  and  "Topographic  von  Jerusalem',  Spiess's  'Das 
Jerusalem  des  Josephus',  Blifs  <£  Dickie's  'Excavations  at  Jerusalem'  (London, 
1898),  Qlaisher's  'Meteorological  Observations  at  Jerusalem",  Zimmermann's 
maps  (Bale,  1876),  and  Schick  &  Benzinger's  maps  of  Jerusalem  and  its  en- 
virons (p.  xoix).  For  closer  investigation  the  Jerusalem  volume  of  the 
English  Palestine  Survey,  with  plans,  is  indispensable.  Miss  A.  Qoodrich- 
Freer's  'Inner  Jerusalem'  (1904)  and  Laurence  Million's  'Literary  Landmarks 
of  Jerusalem'  may  also  be  mentioned. 

Jerusalem,  to  most  travellers,  is  a  place  of  overwhelming  interest, 
hut,  at  first  sight,  many  will  be  sadly  disappointed  in  the  modern 
town.  It  would  seem,  at  first,  as  though  little  were  left  of  the  ancient 
city  of  Zion  and  Moriah.  It  is  only  hy  patiently  penetrating  beneath 
the  modern  crust  of  rubbish  and  decay,  which  shrouds  the  sacred 
places  from  view,  that  the  traveller  will  at  length  realize  to  himself 
a  picture  of  the  Jerusalem  of  antiquity,  and  this  will  be  the  more 
•vivid  in  proportion  to  the  amount  of  previously  acquired  historical 
and  topographical  information  at  his  command.  He  will,  however, 
toe  obliged  to  confess  that  the  material  and  moral  decline  of  the  city 
forms  tout  a  melancholy  termination  to  the  stupendous  scenes  onoe 
enacted  here.  The  combination  of  wild  superstition  with  the  merest 
formalism  which  everywhere  forces  itself  on  our  notice,  and  the 
fanaticism  and  jealous  exolusiveness  of  the  numerous  religions  com- 
munities of  .Jerusalem  form  the  chief  modern  characteristics  of  the 


a.  W.  and  S.  nuarter*.   JERUSALKM. 


4.  Route.    33 


city  —  the  Holy  City,  once  the  fountain-head  from  which  the  know- 
ledge of  the  true  God  was  wont  to  be  vouchsafed  to  mankind. 
Jerusalem,  the  centre  of  the  three  great  religions  of  the  world,  is 
not  at  all  a  town  for  amusement,  lor  everything  in  it  has  a  religious 
tinge,  and  from  this  point  cf  view,  the  impressions  the  traveller  re- 
ceives in  Jerusalem  are  anything  hut  pleasant.  The  native  Christians 
of  all  sects  are  hy  no  means  equal  to  their  task,  the  hitter  war  which 
rages  among  them  is  carried  on  with  very  foul  weapons,  and  the 
contempt  with  which  the  orthodox  Jews  and  Mohammedans  look 
down  on  the  Christians  is  only  too  well  deserved. 


a.  The  Western  and  Southern  Quarters. 

The  W.  entrance  of  Jerusalem  is  formed  hy  the  Jaffa  Gate 
(PI.  D,  5,  6),  called  hy  the  Arabs  Bab  el-ChalU,  i.e.  Gate  of  Hebron.* 
The  street  leading  from  the  railway  station  (p.  69)  reaches  the  town 
here;  and  the  spot  always  presents  an  animated  concourse  of  pil- 
grims, travellers,  donkey-drivers,  and  the  like.  As  in  all  the  old 
city-gates  of  Jerusalem  (pp.  48,  85),  the  gateway  forms  an  angle 
in  passing  between  its  towers.  A  portion  of  the  adjacent  city-wall 
was  removed  in  1898  to  form  a  road  for  the  German  Emperor. — 
To  the  S.E.  of  the  gate  rises  El-Kala  or  the  Citadel  (PI.  D,  6),  [^ 
also  mistakenly  called  (since  the  Middle  Ages)  the  Castle  of  David 
(coinp.  p.  31).  This  building,  which  dates  in  its  present  form 
from  the  beginning  of  the  14th  cent.,  with  some  additions  of  the 
16th  cent.,  consists  of  an  irregular  group  of  towers  standing  upon  a 
massive  substructure  rising  at  an  angle  of  about  45°  from  the  bottom 
of  t  L6  moat.  The  N.E.  tower,  the  almost  solid  lower  part  of  which 
consists  of  large  drafted  blocks,  with  rough  surfaces  (p.  xciv),  prob- 
ably corresponds  to  the  '■Phasael  Tower"  of  Herod's  palace  (p.  27)  and 
offeis  the  finest  example  of  the  ancient  wall-towers  of  Jerusalem. 

The  David  Street,  running  towards  the  E.  from  the  Jaffa  Gate 
(at  lrst  under  the  name  of  Sueikat  Allan ;  PI.  D,  E,  5),  between  the 
Citalel  and  the  Grand  New  Hotel  (PI.  D,  5 ;  see  p.  19),  descends 
in  a  series  of  steps,  crosses  the  Street  of  the  Christians  (see  below), 
and  is  prolonged  as  the  Bazaar  Street  (Hdret  el-Bizdr;  PI.  E,  F,  6) 
to  tie  S.  of  the  Muristan  (p.  46).  At  this  point  is  the  market  for 
graii  and  seeds,  while  the  Crown  Prince  Frederick  William  Street 
diverges  to  the  left.  Farther  on  the  street  crosses  the  three  lanes 
of  tie  Old  Bazaar  (p.  47).  Its  continuation  (Tarik  Bab  es-Silseleh) 
endt  at  the  Es-Silseleh  Gate  of  the  Hararn  esh-Sherif. 

It  tho  Greek  Monastery  of  St.  John  (PI.  23 ;  E,  5) ,  which  has 
accommodation  for  iJOO  pilgrims,  we  turn  to  the  N.  and  enter  tho 
Striet  of  the  Christians  (Hdret  en- Nasdra;  PI.  E,  5,  4).  This 
forms  the  chief  approach  to  the  Church  of  the  Holy  Sepulchre.  It 
is  liied  on  both  sides  with  shops.  To  the  N.  of  the  Monastery  of 
St.  John,  on  the  right,  is  a  covered  passage  leading  to  the  New  Bazaar 
of  tic  Muristan  (p.  47)  and  thence  to  the  large  Bath  of  the  Patriarch 


■■ 


34     Route  4. 


JERUSALEM,    a.  W.  and  8.  Quarters. 


(llammam  el-Batrafc;  PL  E,  5).    Opposite,  to  the  left,  is  an  Arab 
coffee-house. 

From  here  we  obtiiin  the  best  survey  of  the  so-called  Patriarcb/s  Pool 
(Birkel  llammam  el-Batrrtk;  PI.  E,  5),  an  artificial  reservoir,  80  yds.  long 
(N.  to  S.)  and  48  yds.  wide,  the  construction  of  which  is  ascribed  to  King 
Hezckiah.  .losephus  calls  it  Amygdalon,  or  the  'tower-poor.  The  bottom 
lies  only  10  ft.  below  the  level  of  the  Street  of  the  Christians.  At  the  S.E. 
corner  its  coping  consists  of  hewn  blocks.  On  the  W.  side  part  of  the  rock 
has  been  removed,  in  order  that  a  level  surface  might  be  obtained.  On  the 
N.  it  is  bounded  by  the  so-called  Coptic  Khdn  (PI.  E,  5),  under  which  is 
a  wall  supposed  to  indicate  the  original  extension  of  the  reservoir  on  this 
side.  In  summer  the  reservoir  is  either  empty  or  contains  a  little  muddy 
water  only.  It  is  supplied  from  the  Mamilla  pool  (p.  (58),  and  the  water 
is  chiefly  used  for  filling  the  iBath  of  the  Patriarch''  (p.  33). 

Farther  on  a  covered  passage  diverges  to  the  right  from  the 
Street  of  the  Christians,  descends  a  few  steps,  and  comes  out  on  the 
space  in  front  of  the  Church  of  the  Holy  Sepulchre  (p.  36).  To  the 
left  stands  the  Great  Greek  Monastery  (PL  D,  E,  4,  5),  called  Deir 
er-Rum  el-Kebir,  entered  from  tlxeHdret  Deir  er-Rum.  It  is  a  build- 
ing of  considerable  extent  and  an  interesting  example  of  Jerusalem 
architecture,  being  first  mentioned  in  1400  as  the  monastery  of 
St.  Thecla.  Since  1845  it  has  been  the  residence  of  the  Greek 
patriarch  and  possesses  a  valuable  library  (p.  22).  It  contains  five 
churches,  the  chief  of  which  is  that  of  St.  Thecla.  The  churches 
of  Constantino  and  Helena  are  on  the  E.  side  of  the  Street  of  the 
Christians. 

At  the  end  of  the  Street  of  the  Christians  we  take  the  turning 
to  the  left  (W.).  Here  are  the  Girls'  Orphanage  of  the  Franciscan 
Sisters  (r.),  the  Greek  Patriarchate  (L),  and  the  Boys'  School  of  the 
Latin  Patriarchate  (1.).  Farther  on  are  the  Greek  Convents  of  Si. 
Michael  (PL  25)  and  St.  George  (PL  21;  on  the  right),  and,  on  both 
sides  of  the  covered  street,  the  Franciscan  Convent  of  Our  Sariour 
(PI.  33).  The  street  to  the  left  (S.)  leads  to  the  Casa  Nuova,  We 
turn  to  the  right,  passing  the  Greek  Convents  of  St.  Theodort  (1. : 
PL  27)  and  St.  Basil  (r. ;  PL  18).  The  next  street  to  the  right  leads 
to  the  'New  Gate  or  Bab  Abdul  HamU  (PL  C,  D,  4).  At  the  N.W. 
corner  of  the  wall  stands  the  building  of  the  Freres  des  fcoles 
Chretiennes,  or  School  Brethren,  with  the  remains  of  the  so-called 
ToweT  of  Goliath  (Kasr  Jalud;  PL  C,  4).  The  oldest  relics  o:'  the 
castle  consist  (in  the  S.  part)  of  the  substruction  of  a  massive  scuare 
tower  (perhaps  the  lPsephinus,  of  Josephus;  comp.  p.  27);  four 
courses  of  large  smooth-hewn  stones  are  still  recognizable.  The 
centre  of  the  building  is  occupied  by  four  large  pillars  of  huge 
drafted  blocks.  —  To  the  S.E.  lies  the  Latin  Patriarchate  (PL  C,  D,  5), 
containing  a  church,  a  seminary,  and  an  extensive  library  (p.  22). 
Continuing  towards  the  S.E.,  and  passing  the  Greek  hospital  and 
the  boys'  school  of  the  Greek  Patriarchate,  we  soon  find  ourselves 
again  at  the  Jaffa  Gate  (p.  33). 

To  the  S.  and  S.E.  of  the  Citadel  (p.  3.'1)  extends  the  Armenian  fttarter 
(PI.  D,  E,  6,  7).    In  the  N.  part  of  this  quarter,  opposite  the  Citadel,  itands 


b.  Holy  Sepulchre. 


JERUSALEM. 


4.  Route.    35 


the;  English  Christ  Church  (PI.  E,  (i;  comp.  p.  21).  Proceediug  towards 
the^  S.,  we  reach  the  Great  Armenian  Monastery  (PI.  E,  6,  7),  the  extensive 
buiildinga  of  which  are  said  to  have  room  for  several  thousand  pilgrims. 
Thte  old  convent-church,  the  Church  of  St.  James  (PI.  E,  (i),  is  well  worth 
a  visit.  The  nave  and  aisles,  of  equal  height,  are  separated  by  elegant 
pilllars;  the  dome  is  formed  by  two  intersecting  semicircular  arches.  The 
wallls  are  lined  with  porcelain  tiles  to  the  height  of  6  ft.,  above  which  they 
are  covered  with  paintings.  The  W.  aisle  contains  the  chief  sanctuary,  viz. 
the  prison  in  which  James  the  Great  was  beheaded  (Acts  xv.  2).  The 
motnastery  includes  a  printing-office,  a  seminary,  a  large  hospice  for  pil- 
griims,  schools  for  boys  and  girls,  and  a  small  museum.  The  large  garden, 
stretching  along  the  city-wall,  contains  numerous  imposing  trees  and 
offers  a  fine  view  of  the  upper  part  of  the  Valley  of  Ilinnom  (p.  69).  The 
lance  skirting  the  garden  on  ihe  E.  ends  on  the  S.  at  the  Zion  Gate  (p.  72). 
A  liittle  farther  to  the  E.  is  the  Armenian  nunnery  of  Deir  ez-Zeitttni  (PI.  E,  7), 
the  interesting  old  church  of  which  is  regarded  by  the  Armenians  as  the 
houise  of  Annas,  the  father-in-law  of  Caiaphas. 

Tho  dirty  Jewish  Quarter  (PI.  E,  F,  6,  7;  comp.  p.  22)  contains 
nuimeroua  Synagogues  (marked  S  upon  the  Plan)  ,  hucksters'"  booths,  and 
tavierns,  but  offers  no  object  of  interest  to  the  traveller. 


b.   The  Church  of  the  Holy  Sepulchre. 

The  Church  of  the  Holy  Sepulchre  is  open  free  before  11.30  a  m.  and 
afterr  3  p.m.,  but  by  paying  a  bakhshish  of  1  fr.  to  the  Muslim  custodians 
the  visitor  will  be  allowed  to  remain  in  the  building  after  11.30  o'clock.  An 
opera-glass  and  a  light  are  indispensable.  A  bright  day  should  be  chosen, 
as  imany  parts  of  the  building  are  very  dark.  —  Muslim  guards,  appointed 
by  the  Turkish  government,  sit  in  the  vestibule  (p.  39)  for  the  purpose 
of  preserving  order  among  the  Christian  pilgrims  and  of  keeping  the  keys. 
The  office  of  custodian  is  hereditary  in  a  Jerusalem  family.  Down  to 
the  beginning  of  the  19th  cent,  a  large  entrance-fee  was  exacted  from  every 
visitor.  —  A  good  model  of  the  Church  of  the  Holy  Sepulchre,  by  Dr.  Schick, 
is  to  be  seen  at  the  house  of  Mrs.  Schceneke  (comp.  p.  60). 

The  *Church  of  the  Holy  Sepulchre  (Arab.  Kenhet  el-Kiydmeh; 
PI.  E,  4),  with  its  conspicuous  dome,  surmounted  by  a  gilded  cross, 
occupies  a  site  which  has  been  held  sacred  for  many  centuries.  It 
is,  however,  by  no  means  certain  that  this  corresponds  to  the  Golyotha 
(Aramaic  gulgolta,  skull)  of  the  New  Testament.  According  to  the 
Bible  (Matth.  xxviii.  11;  Hebr.  xiii.  12)  Golgotha  lay  outside  the 
city-wall,  but  the  course  of  the  second  city-wall  is  still  a  matter  of 
dispute  (comp.  p.  32).  Some  explorers  now  look  for  Golgotha  to  the 
N.  of  the  town  (comp.  pp.  86,  87).  Bishop  Eusebius  of  Ciesarea  (314- 
340  A.D.),  the  earliest  historian  who  gives  us  information  on  the  sub- 
ject, records  that  during  tho  excavations  in  the  reign  of  Constantine 
the  sacred  tomb  of  the  Saviour  was,  'contrary  to  all  expectation', 
discovered.  Later  historians  add  that  Helena,  Constantino's  mother, 
undertook  a  pilgrimage  to  Jerusalem,  and  that  she  there  discovered 
the  Cross  of  Christ.  Two  churches  were  consecrated  here  in  336  :  — 
the  Church  of  the  Holy  Sepulchre  (also  called  the  Anastasis,  because 
Christ  here  rose  from  the  dead),  consisting  of  a  rotunda,  in  the  middle 
of  which  was  the  sepulchre  surrounded  by  statues  of  the  twelve 
apostles,  and  a  Basilica  dedicated  to  the  sign  of  the  Cross.  A  few 
broken  columns  of  the  propylaja  remain  (comp    p.  4?). 


36 


Route  1. 


JERUSALEM. 


b.  Church  of  the 


In  June,  614,  the  buildings  were  destroyed  by  the  Persians.  In 
616-626  Modestus,  abbot  of  the  monastery  of  Theodosius,  built  a 
new  Church  of  the  Resurrection  (Anastasis),  a  new  Church  of  the 
Cross  (Martyrion),  and  a  Church  of  Calvary.  From  a  description  by 
Arculf  in  670  it  appears  that  an  addition  had  been  made  to  the 
holy  places  by  the  erection  of  a  church  of  St.  Mary  on  the  S.  side. 
In  the  time  of  Khalif  Mamun  (p.  53)  tho  patriarch  Thomas  of 
Jerusalem  enlarged  the  dome  over  the  Anastasis.  In  936  and  in  969 
the  church  was  partly  destroyed  by  Are,  and  in  1010  the  holy  places 
were  damaged  and  desecrated  by  the  Muslims.  In  1055  a  church 
again  arose,  but  this  building  seemed  much  too  insignificant  to  the 
Crusaders,  who  therefore  erected  a  large  Romanesque  church  which 
embraced  all  the  holy  places  and  chapels  (beginning  of  the  12th 
century).  In  spite  of  the  numerous  alterations  and  additions  that 
have  since  been  made,  there  still  subsist  many  remains  of  the 
two  main  parts  of  this  building,  —  viz.  the  circular  church  over 
the  Holy  Sepulchre  on  the  W.  and  a  church  with  a  semicircular 
choir  on  the  E.  New  acts  of  destruction  were  perpetrated  in  1187 
and  1244,  but  in  1310  a  handsome  church  had  again  arisen,  to 
which  in  1400  were  added  two  domes.  During  the  following  cen- 
turies complaints  were  frequently  made  of  the  insecure  condition  of 
the  dome  of  the  sepulchre.  At  length,  in  1719,  a  great  part  of  the 
church  was  rebuilt.  In  1808  the  church  was  almost  entirely  burned 
down.  The  Greeks  now  contrived  to  secure  to  themselves  the  prin- 
cipal right  to  the  buildings,  and  they,  together  with  the  Armenians, 
contributed  most  largely  to  the  erection  of  the  new  church  of  1810, 
which  was  designed  by  a  certain  Komnenos  Kalfa  ofMitylene.  The 
dilapidated  dome  was  restored  by  architects  of  various  nationalities 
in  1868,  in  pursuance  of  an  agreement  made  with  the  Porte  by 
France  and  Russia. 

In  front  of  the  main  portal  of  the  church,  on  the  S.  side,  is  an 
Outer  Court,  or  Quadrangle  (PI.  1,  on  opposite  page),  dating  from 
the  period  of  the  Crusades,  as  is  evidenced  by  the  immured  columns 
to  the  left,  adjoining  the  staircase,  and  by  a  piece  of  vaulting  i:i  the 
W.  archway  (p.  34).  Remains  of  bases  of  columns  on  the  ground 
show  that  a  porch  also  stood  here.  The  court  lies  below  the  street- 
level  and  is  reached  by  4  steps;  it  is  paved  with  yellowish  slabs 
of  stone,  and  is  always  occupied  by  traders  and  beggars.  Almcst  in 
front  of  the  door  of  the  Holy  Sepulchre,  is  the  gravestone  of  Philip 
d'Aubigny, an  English Crusader(Pl.  12;  d.  1236;  inscription).  [For  the 
buildings  on  the  S.  and  S.W.  sides  of  this  square,  see  pp.  45  etseq.] 

The  quadrangle  is  bounded  by  buildings  of  no  great  importance. 
The  lirst  door  on  the  right  leads  to  tlie  Monastery  of  Abraham  (PI.  2;  ?.  45). 
Ascending  a  staircase  to  the  left,  we  reach  a  small  terrace  above  the  Chapel 
of  St.  James  (PI.  A ;  p.  38),  where  an  olive-tree,  surrounded  by  a  wall,  narks 
the  spot  where  Abraham  discovered  the  ram  when  about  to  sacrifice  Isaac 
(Gen.  xxn).  A  small  door  and  stair  to  the  E.  lead  to  the  Church  of  the 
Apostles  (above  PI.  3),  with  the  altar  of  Melchizedek.  A  vestibule  ;o  the 
N .  leads  to  the  Church  of  Abraham  (above  the  Chapel  of  the  Arclangel 


Hohj  Sepulchre. 


JERUSALEM. 


4.  Route.    37 


Miichnel,  PI.  5).     A  round  hollow  in  the  centre  of  the  pavement  indicates 
thte  spot  where  Ahraham   was    on   the  point  of  sacrificing  Isaac  (comp. 


1.  Quadrangle.  2.  Monastery  of  Abraham.  3.  Greek  Shops.  4.  Armenian 
Chapel  of  St.  James.  5.  Coptic  Chapel  of  Michael.  6.  Abyssinian  Chapel. 
7.  Chapel  of  St.  Mary  of  Egypt.  8.  Greek  Chapel  of  St.  James.  9.  Chapel 
of  St.  Thecla.  10.  Chapel  of  Mary  Magdalen.  1L.  Chapel  of  the  Forty  Martyrs. 
12.  Tomb  of  Philip  dyAubigny.  13.  Post  of  the  Mi/slim  custodians.  14.  Stone 
of  Unction.  15.  Place  from  which  the  Women  witnessed  the  Anointment.  IB. 
Angels'  Chapel.  17.  Chapel  of  the  Holy  Sepulchre.  18.  Chapel  of  the  Cojits. 
19.  Chapel  of  the  Syrians.  20  Chamber  in  the  Rock.  21.  Passage  to  the  Coptic 
Monastery.  22.  Original  S.  Apse.  23.  Passage  to  the  Cistern.  24.  Cistern. 
25.  Antechamber  of  next  chapel.  26.  Chapel  of  the  Apparition.  27.  Latin 
Sacristy.  28.  Latin  Convent.  29.  Greek  Cathedral  (so-called  Catholicon). 
30.  'Outre  of  the  World'.  31.  Seat  of  the  Patriarch  of  Jerusalem.  32.  Choir. 
33.  North  Aisle  of  the  Church  of  the  Crusaders.  31.  Chapel  (Prison  of  Christ). 
35.  Chapel  of  St.  Longinus.  89.  Chapel  of  the  Parting  of  the  Raiment.  87.  Ghapel 
of  the  Derision.  38.  Chapel  of  the  Empress  Helena.  39.  Altar  of  the  Penitent 
Thief.  40.  Altar  of  the  Empress.  41.  Chapel  of  the  invention  of  the  Cross. 
4'2.  Chapel  of  tlie  Raising  of  the  Cross.  43.  Chapel  of  the  Nailing  to  the  Cross. 
41.  Entrance  from  the  Bazaar.  45.  Abyssinian  Monastery .  4'i.  Entrance  to  the 
Coptic  Monastery.  47.  Entrance  to  the  Cistern  of  St.  Helena.  48.  Greek  Hospice. 
IUedekku's  Palestine  and  Syria.    4th  Edit.  3 


38 


Route  4. 


JERUSALEM. 


b.  Church  of  the 


p.  43).  Thia  chapel  is  the  only  spot  within  the  precincts  of  the  Holy 
Sepulchre  where  Anglican  clergy  have  been  allowed  to  celebrate  the  Holy 
Eucharist.  The  celebration  is  belli  here  by  Ihc  English  bishop  at  intervals 
of  about  a  fortnight.  The  scene  of  Abraham's  sacrifice  was  placed  in 
this  neighbourhood  as  early  as  the  year  COO.  —  Two  other  doors  on  the 
E.  side  of  the  quadrangle  lead  respectively  into  (he  Armenian  Chapel  of 
St.  James  (Pi.  4),  with  a  crypt  underneath,  and  the  Coptic  Chapel  of  the 
Archangel  Michael  (PI.  b).  From  Ihe  latter  a  staircase  leads  E.  to  the 
Abyssinian  Chapel  (PI.  6).  —  The  building  in  the  N.E.  corner  of  the  quad- 
rangle contains  two  stories,  each  of  which  has  pointed  arches  similar  to 
those  on  the  facade  of  the  main  edifice.  The  interior  is  now  occupied  by 
chapels.  Below'  is  the  Greek  Chapel  of  St.  Maiy  of  Egypt  (PI.  7).  This 
Mary,  it  is  said,  was  mysterinusly  presented  from  entering  the  church 
until  she  had  invoked  the  image  of  the  mother  of  Jesus.  Above  is  the  Chapel 
of  the  Agony  of  the  Yirg'n  (p.  44),  which  is  reached  by  the  staircase  t"  the 
right  of  the  E.  portal. 

The  chapels  to  the  W.  of  the  quadrangle  belong  to  the  Greeks.  The 
Chapel  of  St.  James  (PI.  8),  sacred  io  the  memory  of  the  brother  of  Christ,  is 
handsomely  fitted  up ;  behind  it  is  the  Chapel  of  St.  Thecla  (PI.  9).  The  Chapel 
of  Mary  Magdalen  (PI.  10)  marks  the  spot,  where,  according  to  Greek  tra- 
dition, Christ  appeared  to  Mary  Magdalen  for  the  third  time.  The  Chapel 
of  the  Forty  Martyrs  (PI.  11)  stands  on  the  site  of  the  monastery  of  the 
Trinity  ,  which  was  formerly  the  burial-place  of  the  patriarchs  of  Jeru- 
salem;  it  now  forms  the  lowest  story  of  the  Bell  Tower. 

The  Bell  Tower  ,  erected  about  1160-80  in  the  N.W.  corner  of 
the  quadrangle,  has  flying  buttresses  and  large  Gothic  arched  win- 
dows, above  which  were  two  rows  of  louvre-windows,  the  lower  row 
only  of  which  has  been  preserved.  The  tower  originally  stood  de- 
tached from  the  church,  according  to  the  custom  of  S.  Europe,  but 
was  afterwards  partly  incorporated  with  it.  The  upper  part  of  the 
tower  has  been  destroyed;  but  we  know  from  old  drawings  that  it 
consisted  of  several  blind  arcades,  each  with  a  central  win  low, 
above  which  were  pinnacles  and  an  octagonal  dome. 

The  Facade  of  the  Church  is  divided  into  two  stories.  There  are 
two  portals  (of  which  that  to  the  E.  has  been  walled  up),  each  with 
a  corresponding  window  above  it.  Both  portals  and  windows  are 
surmounted  by  depressed  pointed  arches,  which  are  adorned  with  a 
border  of  deep  dentels,  and  over  these  again  runs  a  moulding  of 
elaborately  executed  waved  lines,  which  are  continued  to  tin  ex- 
tremity of  the  wall  on  each  side.  A  similar  line  of  moulding,  executed 
in  egg  and  leaf  work,  separates  the  one  story  from  the  other.  The 
pointed  tympanum  over  the  "W.  portal,  originally  covered  with 
mosaic,  is  adorned  in  the  Arabian  style  with  a  geometrical  design 
of  hexagons.  The  columns  adjoining  the  doors,  probably  taken  from 
some  ancient  temple,  are  of  marble:  their  capitals  are  Byzai  tine, 
but  finely  executed,  and  the  bases  are  quite  in  the  antique  .'tyle. 
The  imposts  of  the  columns  are  continued  to  the  left  and  right  in 
the  form  of  an  elaborate  moulding  of  oak-leaves  and  acorns.  The 
lintels  of  both  doors  are  adorned  with  Basreliefs  of  great  merit,  vhich 
were  probably  executed  in  France  in  the  second  half  of  the  1 2th 
century.    - 

The  liasrelief  over  the  W.  Portal  represents  scenes  from  Bibl:  his- 
tory.   In  the  first  section  to  the  left  is  the  liaising  of  Lazarus  in  a    anil: 


Holy  Sepulchre. 


JERUSALEM. 


4.  Route.    39 


Clhrist  with  the  Gospel,  and  Mary  at,  his  feet;  Lazarus  rises  from  the 
tomb;  in  the  background  spectators,  some  of  theru  holding  their  noses! 
Ini  the  second  section  from  the  left,  Mary  beseeches  Jesus  to  come  for  the 
sake  of  Lazarus.  In  the  third  section  begins  the  representation  of  Christ's 
emtry  into  Jerusalem.  He  first  sends  the  disciples  to  fetch  the  ass;  and 
two  shepherds  with  sheep  are  introduced.  The  disciples  bring  the  foal 
aind  spread  out  their  garments;  in  the  background  appears  the  Mt.  of 
Olives.  Then  follows  the  Entry  into  Jerusalem.  (The  missing  fragment, 
S&owing  Christ  upon  the  ass,  is  now  in  the  Louvre.)  The  small  figures 
which  spread  their  garments  in  the  way  are  very  pleasing.  A  man  is 
ciutting  palm- branches.  A  woman  carries  her  child  on  her  shoulder 
as  they  do  in  Egypt  at.  the  present  day.  In  the  foreground  is  a  lame 
m  an  with  his  erutch.  The  last  section  represents  the  Last  Supper:  John 
leians  on  Jesus'  breast;  Judas,  on  the  outer  side  of  the  table,  and  separated 
from  the  other  disciples,  is  receiving  the  sop.  —  The  Basrelief  over  the 
E..  Portal  is  an  intricate  mass  of  foliage,  fruit,  flowers,  nude  figures,  birds, 
anul  other  objects.  In  the  middle  is  a  centaur  with  his  bow.  The  whole 
has  an  allegorical  meaning:  the  animals  below,  which  represent  evil, 
eO'iispirc  against  goodness. 

The  Interior  of  the  Church  of  the  Holy  Sepulchre  consists  now, 
as  it  flid  in  the  time  of  the  Crusaders  (p.  36),  of  two  main  parts,  the 
circular  domed  building  to  the  W.  (see  below),  and  the  rectangular 
el  ureh  with  nave  and  aisles  to  the  E.  (p.  41 ).  These  two  were  origin- 
ally separated.  In  entering  from  the  S.  we  first  reach  a  vestibule 
(Pi.  13;  p.  35)  in  which  the  Muslim  custodians  sit.  From  this  we  pass 
into  the  8.  aisle  of  the  second  of  the  above-mentioned  churches. 
Immediately  in  front  of  us,  surrounded  by  numerous  lamps  and 
colossal  candelabra,  is  the  large  'Stone  of  Unction'  (PI.  14),  on 
which  the  body  of  Jesus  is  said  to  have  lain  when  it  was  anointed 
by  Nicodemus  (John  xix.  38-40),  while  about  33  ft.  to  the  W. 
of  it  is  a  second  stone  (PL  15),  which  marks  the  spot  whence  the 
women  are  said  to  have  witnessed  the  anointment. 

Before  the  period  of  the  Crusades  a  separate  'Church  of  St.  Mary' 
rose  over  the  place  of  Anointment,  but  a  little  to  the  S.  of  the  present 
spot ;  when,  however,  the  Franks  enclosed  all  the  holy  places  within  one 
building,  the  Stone  of  Unction  was  removed  to  somewhere  about  its  present 
site.  The  stone  has  often  been  changed,  and  has  been  in  possession  of 
numerous  different  religious  communities  in  succession.  In  the  15th  cent. 
it.  belonged  to  the  Copts,  in  the  Kith  to  the  Georgians,  from  whom  the 
Latins  purchased  permission  for  5000  piastres  to  burn  candles  over  it,  and 
afterwards  to  the  Greeks.  Over  this  stone  Armenians,  Latins,  Greeks,  and 
Copts  are  entitled  to  burn  their  lamps.  The  present  stone,  a  reddish  yellow 
marble  slab,  7  ft.  long  and  2  ft.  broad,  was  placed  here  in  1808.  —  To 
the  S.  of  the  Stone  of  the  Women  is  a  flight  of  steps  leading  to  the  Ar- 
menian Chapel. 

The  Rotunda  of  the  Sepulchre  ,  which  we  now  enter,  dates 
in  its  present  form  from  1810.  The  dome  is  borne  by  eighteen  pillars 
connected  by  arches,  and  enclosing  the  sepulchre  itself.  The  supports 
of  the  pillars  belong  to  the  original  structure,  which  consisted  of 
twelve  large  columns,  probably  divided  into  groups  of  three  by  piers 
placed  between  them.  Round  these  pillars  ran  a  double  colonnade, 
and  the  enclosing  wall  had  three  apses  (comp.  p.  40).  The  present 
ambulatory  is  divided  by  cross-vaulting  into  two  stories.  The  dome, 
which  is  65  ft.  in  diameter,  is  made  of  iron,  and  consists  of  two 
concentric  vaults,   the  ribs  of  which  are  connected  by  iron  braces. 


40    Bowie  4. 


JERUSALEM. 


b.  Church  of  the 


Above  the  opening  in  the  middle  is.  a  gilded  screen  covered  vi  itli 
glass.  The  outer  dome  is  covered  with  lead,  while  the  inner  'Ionic 
is  lined  with  painted  tin.  [The  upper  story  of  the  ambulatory  is 
reached  through  the  Greek  Monastery,  see  p.  34.] 

In  the  centre  of  the  rotunda,  beneath  the  dome,  is  the  Chapel 
of  the  Holt  Sepulchre,  a  building  26  ft.  long  and  l71/2  ft.  wkle, 
consisting  of  a  hexagonal  W.  part  and  an  E.  addition.  It  was 
reconstructed  of  marble  in  1810.  In  front  of  the  E.  side  of  it  there 
is  a  kind  of  antechamber  provided  with  stone  benches  and  large 
candelabra.  From  this  we  enter  the  so-called  Angels'  Chapel{¥\.  1>6  ), 
11  ft.  long  and  10  ft.  wide,  the  thick  walls  of  which  contain  flights 
of  steps  leading  to  the  roof.  Of  the  fifteen  lamps  burning  in  this 
chapel  five  belong  to  the  Greeks,  five  to  the  Latins,  four  to  the 
Armenians,  and  one  to  the  Copts.  In  the  middle  lies  a  stone  set  in 
marble  which  is  said  to  be  that  which  covered  the  mouth  of  the 
sepulchre  and  was  rolled  away  by  the  angel.  —  Through  alow  door 
we  next  enter  the  Chapel  of  the  Holy  Sepulchre  (Pi.  17 )  properly 
so  called,  GVfl  ft-  long  by  6  ft.  wide.  From  the  ceiling,  which  r<  sts 
upon  marble  columns,  hang  forty-three  precious  lamps,  of  which 
four  belong  to  the  Copts,  while  the  rest  are  equally  divided  among 
the  other  three  sects.  In  the  centre  of  the  N.  wall  is  a  relief  in  white 
marble,  representing  the  Saviour  rising  from  the  tomb.  This  relief 
belongs  to  the  Greeks,  that  on  the  right  of  it  to  the  Armenians, 
and  that  on  the  left  to  the  Latins.  On  the  inside  of  the  door  is  the 
inscription  in  Greek,  referring  to  the  architect  Kalfa  (p.  3G).  The 
tombstone,  which  is  covered  with  marble  slabs  and  now  used  as  an 
altar,  is  about  5  ft.  long,  2  ft.  wide,  and  3  ft.  high.  The  upper 
slab  is  cracked.    Mass  is  said  here  daily. 

According  to  Luke  xxiii.  53  the  grave  of  Je9us  was  a  rock-tomb,  pro- 
bably a  kind  of  niche-tomb  (p.  xciv).  In  the  course  of  Constantino's  search 
for  the  Holy  Sepulchre  a  cavern  in  a  rock  was  discovered,  and  a  chapel 
was  soon  erected  over  the  spot.  In  (he  time  of  the  Crusaders  the  sanctuary 
of  the  Sepulchre  was  of  a  circular  form.  At.  that  period  there  were  already 
two  cavities,  the  outer  of  which  was  the  angels'  chapel  while  the  inner 
conlained  the  niihe  tomb.  A  little  later  we  hear  of  a  polygonal  building, 
artificially  lighted  within.  It  is  impossible  to  decide  definitely  whether 
the  mouth  of  the  tomb,  which  was  overlaid  wilh  marble  at  a  ve>y  early 
period,  is  in  the  natural  rock  or  in  an  artificial  mound.  After  the  destruction 
of  the  place  in  1565  the  tomb  was  uncovered,  and  an  inscription  with  the 
name  of  Helena  (?) ,  and  a  piece  of  wood  supposed  to  be  a  fragment  of 
the  Cross  were  found.  The  whole  building  was  restored  in  1719,  and  was 
little  injured  by  the  fire  of  1808. 

Immediately  beyond  the  Holy  Sepulchre  (to  the  W.~)  is  a  small 
chapel  ( PI.  18 )  which  has  belonged  to  the  Copts  since  the  10th  century. 

The  pillars  in  the  W.  ambulatory  are  connected  by  transverse 
partition-walls  with  the  strong  enclosing  wall  dating  from  the  great 
building  of  the  Crusaders.  The  small  chapels  thus  created  belong 
to  different  religious  communities;  those  on  the  W.,  the  N.,  and  the 
S.  (PL  19,  23,  22)  still  possess  their,  old  apses.  We  first  enter 
the  plain  Chapel  of  the  Syrians  (FT.  19)  on  the  W.,  whence  a  door 


Jlohj  Sepulchre. 


JERUSALEM. 


4.  Route.    41 


oni  the  left  leads  down  one  step  into  a  rocky  chamber  (PI.  20). 
IVy  the  walls  are  first  observed  two  'sunken  tombs'  (p.  xciv),  one  of 
w  hich  is  about  2  ft.  and  the  other  3^2  ft-  long,  and  both  3  ft.  deep, 
lnaving  been  probably  destined  for  bones.  In  the  rock  to  the  S.  are 
traces  of  'shaft  tombs',  5>/2  ft-  l°ng>  IV2  ft.  wide,  and  2^2  ft-  high, 
Niince  the  16th  cent,  tradition  has  placed  the  tombs  of  Joseph  of 
A  ri  ni.ithea  and  Nicodemus  here.  —  In  the  chapel  (PI.  21)  to  the  N. 
otf  the  Syrian  chapel  is  a  staircase  ascending  to  the  apartments  of 
tine  Armenians.  The  northernmost  chapel  (PI.  23)  is  adjoined  by 
a  passage  leading  between  the  dwellings  of  officials  to  a  deep  cistern 
(PL  24),  from  which  good  fresh  water  may  be  obtained. 

From  the  N.E.  side  of  the  ambulatory  we  enter  an  antechamber 
(PL  25)  which  tradition  points  out  as  the  spot  where  Jesus  appeared 
to>  Mary  Magdalen  (John  xx.  14,  15).  The  place  where  Christ  stood 
is  indicated  by  a  marble  ring  in  the  centre,  and  that  where  Mary 
stood  by  another  near  the  N.  exit  from  the  chamber.  To  the  left  is 
the  only  organ  in  the  church.  —  We  now  ascend  by  four  steps  to 
the  Chapel  of  the  Apparition  (PL  26),  dating  from  the  14th  cent.,  the 
pirim  ipal  chapel  of  the  Latins.  Legend  relates  that  Christ  appeared 
here  to  his  mother  after  the  resurrection,  and  the  central  altar  is 
dedicated  to  her.  The  N.  altar  contains  various  relics.  [The  door  on 
the  N.  side  forms  the  approach  to  the  Latin  Convent.]  Behind  the 
S.  altar,  immediately  to  the  right  of  the  entrance,  is  shown  a  frag- 
ment of  the  Column  of  the  Scourging,  preserved  in  a  latticed  niche 
in  the  wall. 

The  column  was  formerly  shown  in  the  house  of  Caiaphas  (p.  72l,  but 
was  brought  here  at  (he  time  of  the  Crusaders.  Judging  from  the  narra- 
tiv  es  of  different  pilgrims,  it  must  have  frequently  changed  its  size  and 
colour,  and  a  column  of  similar  pretensions  is  shown  in  the  Church  of 
Santa  Prasscde,  at  Rome,  whither  it  is  said  to  have  been  taken  in  1223. 
There  is  a  slick  here  which  !he  pilgrims  kiss  after  pushing  it  through  a  hole 
and  touching  the  column  with  it.  —  One  legend  relates  thiit  the  Chapel  of 
the  Apparition  occupies  the  site  of  the  house  of  Joseph  of  Arimathea. 

On  the  E.  side  of  the  antechamber  is  the  entrance  to  the  Latin 
Sacristy  (PL  27),  where  we  are  shown  the  sword,  spurs,  and  cross  of 
Godfrey  de  Bouillon,  antiquities  of  doubtful  genuineness.  These 
are  used  in  the  ceremony  of  receiving  knights  into  the  Order  of  the 
Sepulchre,  which  has  existed  since  the  Crusades.  The  spurs  are 
8  in.  and  the  sword  2  ft.  8  in.  long;  the  latter  has  a  simple  cruci- 
form handle  5  in.  in  length.  Behind  the  Sacristy  are  the  Cells  of 
the  Franciscans  (PL  28),  with  the  steps  leading  up  to  the  Latin 
half  of  the  galleries. 

The  Rectangular  Part  of  the  Church  (p.  39),  to  which  we  now 
turn,  belongs  in  its  essential  features  to  the  Frankish  church  built  by 
an  architect  named  Jourdain  between  1140  and  1149.  It  consists  of 
a  nave  and  aisles,  with  an  ambulatory  and  semicircular  apse  towards 
the  E.  The  pointed  windows  and  arcades,  the  clustered  pillars,  and 
the  groined  vaulting  bear  all  the  characteristics  of  the  French  tran- 
sition style,  with  the  addition  of  Arabian  dotails.  The  original  effect 


42    Route  d. 


JERUSALEM. 


b.  Church  of  the 


of  the  building,  particularly  the  simple  and  noble  form  of  the  choir, 
has  been,  however,  seriously  disfigured  by  smaller  structures  erected 
round  and  against  it.  According  to  tradition,  the  church  occupies 
the  site  of  the  garden  of  Joseph  of  Arimathea.  —  The  main  entrance 
•was  opposite  the  Holy  Sepulchre  to  the  E.,  where  the  lanre  'Arch 
of  the  Emperor'  still  stands.    Through  this  we  enter  the  — 

Grehk  Cathedral  (PI.  29),  the  so-called  Catholicon,  in  the 
nave  of  the  church  of  the  Crusaders.  It  is  separated  from  the  aisles 
by  partition-walls  between  the  pillars,  and  is  lavishly  embellished 
with  gilding  and  painting.  In  the  W.  part  of  the  church,  which  is 
covered  by  a  dome  resting  on  the  pointed  arches,  stands  a  kind  of 
cup  containing  a  flattened  ball,  covered  with  network,  which  is  said 
to  occupy  the  Centre  of  the  World  (PI.  30),  a  fable  of  very  early 
origin.  Of  the  two  episcopal  thrones,  that  to  the  N.  is  designed  for 
the  Patriarch  of  Antioch,  that  to  the  S.  for  the  Patriarch  of  Jeru- 
salem (PI.  31).  The  choir  (PI.  32)  with  the  high-altar  is  shut  off 
by  a  wall  in  the  Greek  fashion,  and  a  so-called  Iconoclaustrum  thus 
formed,  in  which  the  treasures  of  the  church  are  sometimes  shown 
to  distinguished  visitors.  They  include  a  piece  of  the  'True  Cross' 
and  a  bone  of  St.  Oswald,  King  of  Northumbria  (d.  642).  — 
"We  return  through  the  Arch  of  the  Emperor  and  turn  to  the  right 
into  the  — 

North  Aisle  (PI.  33).  Between  the  two  huge  piers  on  the  N. 
side  are  remains  of  the  'Seven  Arches  of  the  Virgin',  which  formed 
one  side  of  an  open  court  existing  in  the  time  of  the  Crusaders.  — 
In  the  N.E.  corner  is  a  dark  chapel  which  was  shown  as  early  as  the 
beginning  of  the  12th  cent,  as  the  Prison  of  Christ  (PL  34)  and  of 
the  two  thieves  before  the  Crucifixion.  On  the  right  of  the  entrance 
is  an  altar  with  two  round  holes  said  to  be  the  stocks  in  which  the 
feet  of  Jesus  were  put  during  the  preparations  for  the  Crueifixnn. 
Through  the  holes  we  see  two  impressions  on  the  stone,  which  arc 
said  to  be  the  footprints  of  Christ  (comp.  the  adjoining  picture). 
This  legend,  of  Greek  origin,  dates  from  the  end  of  the  15th  oenti  ry. 

The  old  Frankish  retro-choir,  to  the  E.  of  the  Greek  Cathedral, 
has  three  apses  cut  out  of  its  thick  outside  wall.  The  first  of  these 
apses  is  called  the  Chapel  of  St.  Lonyinus  (PI.  35).  LoAginns, 
whose  name  is  mentioned  in  the  5th  cent,  for  the  first  time,  "vas 
the  soldier  who  pierced  Jesus'  side;  he  had  been  blind  of  one  eye, 
but  when  some  of  the  water  and  blood  spurted  into  his  blind  eyi  it 
recovered  its  sight.  He  thereupon  repented  and  became  a  Christian. 
The  chapel  of  this  saint  appears  not  to  have  existed  earlier  tian 
the  end  of  the  16th  century.  It  belongs  to  the  Greeks.  The  next 
chapel  is  that  of  the  J'artina  of  the  Raiment  (Pi.  JJ6).  and  bcloigs 
to  the  Armenians.  It  was  shown  as  early  as  the  12th  century.  — 
The  third  is  the  Chapel  of  the  Derision,  or  of  the  Crowniny  vith 
Thorns  (PI.  37),  belonging  to  the  Greeks,  and  without  windows. 
About  the  middle  of  it  stands  an  altar  shaped  like  a  box,  wlich 


Holy  Sepulchre. 


JERUSALEM. 


4.  Route.    43 


comtains  the  so-called  Column  of  Derision.  This  relic,  which  is  first 
mentioned  in  1384,  has  passed  through  many  hands  and  frequently 
changed  Its  size  and  colour  since  then,  it  is  now  a  thick,  light-grey 
fravgment  of  stone,  about  1  ft.  high.  —  Between  the  1st  and  2nd 
clnapels  is  a  door,  through  which  the  canons  are  said  formerly  to 
ha  vc  entered  the  church. 

Between  the  second  and  third  chapels,  29  steps  lead  us  down 
to  a  chapel  65  ft.  long  and  42  ft.  wide,  situated  1(5  ft.  below  the  level 
of  the  Sepulchre.  This  is  the  Chapel  of  St.  Helena  (PI.  38),  be- 
longing to  the  Armenians,  and  here  once  stood  Constantino's  basil- 
ica. In  the  7th  cent,  a  small  sanctuary  in  the  Byzantine  style  was 
enected  here  by  Modestus,  and  the  existing  substructions  date  from 
this  period.  The  dome  is  borne  by  four  thick  columns  of  reddish 
co  lour  (antique  monoliths),  surmounted  by  clumsy  cubic  capitals. 
According  to  an  old  tradition,  the  columns  used  to  shed  tears.  The 
pointed  vaulting  dates  from  the  12th  century.  The  chapel  has  two 
apises,  of  which  that  to  the  N.  (PI.  39)  is  dedicated  to  the  Penitent 
Thief  and  that  to  the  S.  (PI.  40)  to  the  Empress  Helena.  The  seat 
adjoining  the  altar  in  the  S.E.  corner  is  said  to  have  been  occupied 
by  the  Empress,  while  the  cross  was  being  sought  for;  this  tradition, 
however,  is  not  older  than  the  loth  century.  In  the  17th  cent,  the 
Armenian  patriarch,  who  used  to  occupy  this  seat,  complains  of 
the  way  in  which  it  was  mutilated  by  pilgrims.  In  the  middle  ages 
the  chapel  was  regarded  as  the  place  where  the  Cross  was  found. 
Some  explorers  take  it  to  be  a  piece  of  the  old  city  moat. 

Thirteen  more  steps  descend  to  what  is  properly  the  Chapel  of 
the  Invention  (i.  e.  Finding)  of  the  Cross  (PI.  41 );  by  the  last  three 
steps  the  natural  rock  makes  its  appearance.  The  (modern)  chapel, 
which  is  really  a  cavern  in  the  rock,  is  about  24  ft.  long,  nearly  as 
wide,  and  16  ft.  high,  and  the  floor  is  paved  with  stone.  On  its 
W.  and  S.  sides  are  stone  ledges.  The  place  to  the  right  belongs  to 
the  Greeks,  and  here  is  a  marble  slab  in  which  a  cross  is  beautifully 
inserted.  The  altar  (1.)  belongs  to  the  Latins.  A  bronze  statue  of  the 
Empress  Helena  of  life-size  represents  her  holding  the  cross.  The 
pedestal  is  of  the  colour  of  the  rock  and  rests  on  a  foundation  of 
green  serpentine.  On  the  wall  at  the  back  is  a  Latin  inscription 
with  the  name  of  the  founder. 

On  the  S.  side  of  the  ambulatory  adjoining  the  chapel  of  the 
Derision  is  a  flight  of  steps  ascending  to  the  chapels  on  Golgotha, 
or  Mt.  Calvary  (PI.  42,  43).  The  pavement  of  these  chapels  lies 
141/0  ft.  above  the  level  of  the  Church  of  the  Sepulchre.  It  is  un- 
certain whether  this  corresponds  to  the  Mt.  Calvary  enclosed  in  Con- 
stantine's  basilica.  In  the  7th  cent,  a  special  chapel  was  erected 
over  the  holy  spot,  which,  moreover,  was  afterwards  alleged  to  be 
the  scene  of  Abraham's  trial  of  faith  (comp.  pp.  36, 37).  At  the  time 
of  the  Crusaders  the  place,  notwithstanding  its  height,  was  taken 
into  the  aisle  of  the  church.    The  chapels  were  enlarged  in  1810. 


44 


Route  4. 


JERUSALEM. 


b.  Holy  Sepulchre.. 


We  first  cuter  the  Chapel  of  the  Raising  of  the  Cross  (PL  42),  which 
belongs  to  the  Greeks.  It  is  42  ft.  long  and  141/2  ft.  wide,  anal  is 
adorned  with  paintings  and  valuable  mosaics.  In  the  E.  apses  is 
shown  an  opening  lined  with  silver,  where  the  Cross  is  said  to  h  ave 
been  inserted  in  the  rock:  this  was  the  12th  Station  of  the  Oiross 
(Via  Dolorosa,  comp.  p.  50).  The  sites  of  the  crosses  of  the  il  u  *es 
are  shown  in  the  corners  of  the  altar-space,  each  5  ft.  distant  firom 
the  Cross  of  Christ  (doubtless  much  too  near).  They  are  first  men- 
tioned in  the  middle  ages.  The  cross  of  the  penitent  thief  was  s  up- 
posed  to  have  stood  to  the  S.,  that  of  the  impenitent  thief  to  the  N. 
About  41/2  ft.  from  the  Cross  of  Christ  is  the  famous  Cleft  in  the 
Rock  (Matth.  xxvii.  51),  now  covered  with  a  brass  slide  and  lined 
with  slabs  of  red  Jerusalem  marble.  When  the  slide  is  pushed  aside, 
a  cleft  of  about  10  inches  in  depth  only  is  seen.  A  deeper  ohasm 
in  rock  of  a  different  colour  was  formerly  shown.  The  cleft  is  said 
to  reach  to  the  centre  of  the  earth  !  Behind  the  chapel  is  the  re- 
fectory of  the  Greeks. 

The  altar  of  the  'Stabat'  between  the  two  chapels  (13th  Station: 
the  spot  where  Mary  received  the  body  of  Christ  on  the  descent  from 
the  Cross),  and  the  adjoining  chapel  on  the  S.,  the  Chapel  of  the 
Nailing  to  the  Cross  (PL  43),  belong  to  the  Latins.  Christ  is  said  to 
have  been  disrobed  and  nailed  to  the  Cross  here  (10th  and  11th 
Stations).  The  spots  are  indicated  by  pieces  of  marble  let  into  the 
pavement,  and  an  altar-painting  represents  the  scene.  Through 
a  screen  on  the  S.  we  look  into  the  Chapel  of  the  Agony  of  the  Virgin 
(above  PL  7),  which  belongs  to  the  Latins.  It  is  only  13  ft.  long  and 
972 ft.  wide,  but  is  richly  decorated.  The  altar-piece  represents 
Christ  on  the  knees  of  his  mother.  This  chapel  is  at  the  top  of  the 
staircase  outside  the  PL  portal  of  the  Church  (p.  39). 

The  following  points  may  also  be  mentioned.  Beneath  the  Chapel 
of  the  Nailing  to  the  Cross  (PJ.43)  lies  the  office  of  the  Greek  priests, 
and  towards  the  N.,  under  the  Chapel  of  the  Raising  of  the  Cross 
(PL  42),  the  Chapel  of  Adam,  belonging  to  the  Greeks.  A  tradition 
relates  that  Adam  was  buried  here,  that  the  blood  of  Christ  flowed 
through  the  cleft  in  the  rock  on  to  his  head,  and  that  he  was  thus 
restored  to  life.  Eastwards,  and  a  little  to  the  right  of  the  altar, 
a  small  brass  door  covers  a  split  in  the  rock  which  corresponds  With 
the  one  in  the  chapel  above.  —  Before  reaching  the  \V.  door  of  the 
chapel,  we  observe,  on  the  right  and  left,  stone  ledges  on  which 
originally  were  the  monuments  of  Godfrey  of  Bouillon  and  Baldwin  I. 
The  bones  of  these  kings  had  already  been  dispersed  by  the  Kharez- 
mians  (p.  lxxxiv),  and  the  Greeks  removed  the  monuments  also  in 
order  to  put  an  end  to  the  claims  of  the  Latins  to  the  spot. 

During  the  Festival  of  Kasteu,  the  Church  of  the  Sepulchre  is  crowd- 
ed with  pilgrims  of  every  nationality,  and  is  the  scene  of  much  disorder. 
On  Palm  Sunday,  the  Latins  walk  in  procession,  holding  palm-branches 
hrought  from  Gaza  (p.  119),  which  are  consecrated  on  Palm  Sunday  and 
distributed  among  the  people.    On  Holy  Thursday  they  celebrate  a  grand 


e.  Murhtan. 


JERUSALEM. 


4.  Route.    45 


mass  and  walk  in  procession  round  the  chapel  of  the  Sepulchre,  after  which 
Ihe  'washing  of  feet'  takes  place  at  the  door.  The  Franciscans  celebrate 
Gocod  Friday  with  a  mystery  play,  and  with  the  nailing  of  a  figure  to  a 
crows.  Late  on  Easter  Eve  a  solemn  service  is  performed;  pilgrims  with 
torches  shout  Hallelujah,  while  the  priests  move  round  the  Sepulchre 
sing;ing  hymns.  The  festivals  of  the  Greeks  follow  the  old  Julian  calendar, 
whiich  is  13  days  behind  ours.  As  their  Easter  also  falls  on  the  Sunday 
afle  r  Ihe  first  full  moon  of  spring,  it  may  occur  either  before  or  after  ours. 
One-  of  their  most  curious  ceremonies  is  the  so-called  Miracle  of  the  Holy 
Fir®,  which  strangers  may  witness  from  the  galleries  of  the  church.  The 
wih  I  and  noisy  scene  begins  on  Good  Friday.  The  crowd  passes  the  night 
in  I  lie  church  in  order  to  secure  places.  On  Easter  Eve,  about  2  p.m., 
a  pirocessinn  of  the  superior  clergy  moves  round  the  Sepulchre,  all  lamps 
having  been  carefully  extinguished  in  view  of  the  crowd.  Some  of  the 
jirii  sts  enter  the  chapel  of  the  Sepulchre,  while  others  pray  and  the  people 
are  in  the  utmost  suspense.  At  length,  the  fire  which  has  come  down 
from  heaven  is  pushed  through  a  window  of  the  Sepulchre,  and  there 
now  follows  an  indescribable  tumult,  everyone  endeavouring  to  be  the 
first  to  get  his  taper  lighted.  The  sacred  fire  is  carried  home  by  the  pil- 
grims. It  is  supposed  to  have  the  peculiarity  of  not  burning  human  beings, 
and  many  of  the  faithful  allow  the  flame  to  play  upon  their  naked  chests 
or  other  parts  of  their  bodies.  The  Greeks  declare  the  miracle  to  date 
from  the  apostolic  age,  and  it  is  mentioned  by  the  monk  Bernhard  as 
early  as  the  9th  century.  Khalif  Hakim  (p.  Ixxxii)  was  told  that  the  priest 
used  to  besmear  the  wire  by  which  the  lamp  was  suspended  over  the 
sepulchre  with  resinous  oil,  and  to  set  it  on  fire  from  the  roof. 


c.  East  and  South  Sides  of  the  Church  of  the  Holy  Sepulchre. 

i'hc  quadrangle  in  front  of  the  Church  of  the  Holy  Sepulchre  is 
hounded  on  theS.E.  by  the  Greek  Monastery  of A£ra/tarn(p.36;  Fl.  16, 
E,  4, 5),  witli  an  interesting  old  cistern  of  great  size,  and  on  the  S. 
by  the  ruined  Mosque  of  Sldna  'Omar  (PL  36;  E,  5),  with  a  square 
minaret  built  in  1417,  and  by  the  small  Greek  Monastery  of  Geth- 
semane  (PI.  17;  E,  5).  The  last  two  buildings  are  in  the  N.W.  corner 
of  the  Muristan  (PL  E,  5),  a  large  open  space  covering  an  area  of 
about  170  yds.  frorn  E.  to  W.,  and  151  yds.  from  N.  to  S.  Here 
stood  in  the  middle  ages  the  inns  and  hospitals  of  the  Prankish 
pilgrims,  in  particular  those  of  the  Knights  of  St.  John. 

The  earliest  hospice  for  pilgrims  was  erected  by  Charlemagne.  More 
important,  however,  were  buildings  erected  by  Ihe  merchants  of  Amalfi, 
who  enjoyed  commercial  privileges  in  the  East,  including  the  churches 
of  Santa  Maria  Lalina  (ltX30)  and  Santa  Maria  Minor.  Adjoining  the  latter 
the  Benedictines  afterwards  erected  a  hospital  dedicated  to  St.  John  Elee- 
moii  of  Egypt.  This  hospice  was  at  first  dependent  on  the  other,  but 
after  the  capture  of  Jerusalem  by  the  Crusaders  in  1099  it  attained  under 
its  director  Gerardus  an  independent  importance,  'this  new  order  of  the 
Hospitallers,  or  Knight*  of  St.  John,  distinguished  by  a  black  mantle  with 
a  white  cross  on  Ihe  breast,  soon  assumed  the  character  of  an  ecclesiastical 
order  and  selected  John  the  Baptist  as  their  patron  instead  of  the  Egyptian 
saint.  Raymond  Du  Buy,  the  commander  of  the  order,  caused  several 
important  buildings  to  be  erected  in  1130-40,  but  Ihe  Knights  of  St.  John 
bad  to  leave  Jerusalem  in  1187.  Saladin  (p.  lxxxiii)  granted  the  property  of 
the  Hospitallers  as  an  endowment  (waif)  to  the  Mosque  of  rOraar.  In 
1216  Shihab  ed-Din,  nephew  of  Saladin,  converted  the  hospital-church  info 
a  hospital,  the  Arabic-Bersian  name  of  which,  M&iistan,  was  transferred 
to  the  whole  plot  of  ground.  The  hospice ,  which  the  Muslims  allowed 
to  subsist,  was  still  at  the  beginning  of  the  14th  cent,  capable  of  con- 
taining 1000  persons.    At  a  later  date  the  buildings  were  suffered  to  fall 


46    Route  4, 


JERUSALEM. 


c.  Mtirist'in. 


into  decay.     In  1800,  on  the  occasion  of  Ihe  visit  of  the  Crown  Prince  of 
Prussia,  the  Sultan  presented  the  E.  half  of  the  Muristnn  to  Prussia. 

The  entrance  to  the  Mnristan  is  in  the  lane  Haret  ed-Dabbaghin, 
running  to  the  E.  from  the  quadrangle  in  front  of  the  Church  of  the 
Sepulchre  (  o.  36;  comp.  the  Plan  below). 


II  arc  t-     erf  -  Dabbct  qh  i 
Xorlh  rental 


In  the  N.E.  corner  of  the  Mtiristan,  on  the  site  of  the  old  church 
of  Santa  Maria  Lntina,  rises"  the  German  Protestant  Church  of  the 
Redeemer  (7<MoserA;(Yc7ie;  PI.  E,  5),  consecrated  on  Oct.  31st,  1898,  in 
presence  of  Emperor  William  II.  and  the  Empress  Augusta  Victoria 
(key  kept  by  sacristan).  It  follows  the  lines  of  the  ancient  church 
as  closely  as  possible.  The  foundations  are  in  some  places  45  ft. 
below  the  ground.  The  old  main  portal  facing  the  Haret  ed-Dab- 
baghin  is  now  the  North  Portal  of  the  new  church.  The  sculptures  on 
the  great  arch  of  the  door  recall  the  occidental  art  of  the  12th  ceutury. 


c\  Abyssinian  Monastery.     JERUSALEM. 


4.  Route.    47 


Among  tliese  are  representations  Of  the  months.  January,  on  the  left, 
has  disappeared;  'Feb1,  a  man  pruning  a  tree;  'Ma',  indistinct;  'Aprilis', 
a  siltting  figure;  'Majus',  a  man  kneeling  and  cultivating  the  ground; 
(.liO'-nius';  (Ju)'lius\  a  reaper;  'Augustus',  a  thresher;  (Sj'eptenX'ber),  a 
grapie -gatherer;  (Octob)'er',  a  man  with  a  cask;  (November),  a  woman 
stannling  upright,  with  her  hand  in  ber  apron,  probably  the  symbol  of 
repoise.  Above,  between  June  and  July,  .is  the  sun  (with  the  superscrip- 
tion 'soT),  represented  by  a  half-figure  holding  a  disc  over  its*head.  Ad- 
jacemt  is  the  moon  ('luna'),  a  female  figure  with  a  crescent.  The  cornice 
abowe  these  figures  bears  medallions  representing  leaves,  griffins,  etc. 

'The  present  Main  Portal  is  on  the  W.  side  and  is  adjoined  by 
the  Bell  Tower  (extensive  view). 

•On  the  S.  the  church  is  adjoined  by  the  two-storied  Cloisters  of 
the  former  convent,  surrounding  a  square  court  containing  some 
fragments  of  marble  columns.  To  the  S.  of  this  again  is  the  old 
Refe-.ctory,  which  is  entered  from  the  Crown  Prince  Street  by  a  flight 
of  s  teps  constructed  by  Saladin  and  afterwards  transferred  to  this 
position.  Several  finely-vaulted  cisterns  have  lately  been  discovered, 
.the  bottoms  of  which  are  about  50  ft.  below  the  level  of  the  ground. 

'The  W.  half  of  the  Muristan  belongs  to  the  Greek  Patriarchate, 
which  has  recently  erected  a  handsome  Bazaar  in  the  Crown  Prince 
Street  (PL  E,  5;  comp.  p.  33). 

On  the  E.  side  the  Muristan  is  bounded  by  the  old  Chief  Bazaar 
of  Jerusalem,  consisting  of  three  parallel  streets  (Suk  el-Lahhdmin, 
PI.  W,  5;  Suk  el-'Attdrln;  Suk  el-  Khawdjdt),  connected  by  transverse 
lanes  ami  containing  several  khans.  —  Opposite  the  N.E.  corner 
of  the  Muristan,  next  to  the  Greek  Monastery  of  Abraham  (p.  45), 
lies  the  Hospice  of  the  Russian  Palestine  Society  (PI.  1;  E,  F,  4,  6), 
with  an  old  gateway  and  remains  of  old  walls,  which  possibly 
formed  part  of  the  Second  City  Wall  (p.  31). 

"We  follow  the  N.  continuation  of  the  Bazaar  St.,  but  just  short 
of  the  vaulted-over  portion  of  it  turn  to  the  left,  and  ascend  tho 
stops  by  the  Russian  hospice  (see  above).  [The  vaults  under  the 
stairs  contain  fragments  of  columns  from  the  old  basilica  (comp. 
p.  36).]  At  the  top  a  small  street  leads  to  the  W.  past  the  dwellings 
of  pool  Latins  (  called  Bar  Ishdk  Beg).  The  cut  de  sac  (44  on  ground- 
plan  at  p.  37)  ends  at  a  column  (right)  and  three  doors,  whence,  we 
obtain  a  view  of  the  Church  of  the  Holy  Sepulchre  from  the  E. 

Through  the  door  to  tho  left (45  on  ground-plan  at  p.  37)  we  enter 
the  court  of  the  Abyssinian  Monastery  (PI.  E,  4),  in  the  middle  of 
which  stands  a  small  spherical  structure.  This  is  the  dome  above 
the  Chapel  of  St.  Helena  (p.  43).  The  court  is  surrounded  by  several 
miserable  huts.  Here  also  an  olive-tree  is  shown,  said  to  mark  the  spot 
where  Abraham  found  the  ram  when  about  to  sacrifice  Isaac  (cemp. 
p.  36).  In  the  background,  to  the  S.,  a  wall  of  the  former  refectory 
of  the  canons'  residence  becomes  visible  here.    (Chapel,  see  p.  36.) 

The  second  of  the  three  doors  mentioned  above  (46  on  ground- 
plan  at  p.  37),  a  large  iron  portal,  leads  to  the  Monastery  of  the  Copts 
(PI.  E,  4;  Beir  es-Sultdn,  Monastery  of  the  Sultan).    It  has  been 


^•*>£&* 


48    Route  J. 


JERUSALEM,     d.  Gate  of  St.  Stephen. 


fitted  up  as  an  episcopal  residence,  and  contains  cells  for  the  accom- 
modation of  pilgrims.  The  church,  the  foundations  of  which  are 
old,  has  heen  entirely  restored.  The  small  congregation  is  placed 
on  each  side  of  the  altar,  which  is  enclosed  hy  a  railing. 

The  third  (r. ;  47  on  ground-plan  at  p.  37)  of  the  three  doors  mentioned 
at  p.  47  leads  to  the  Cistern  of  Si.  Helena  (key  with  the  porter  of  the  mon 
astery;  fee  for  one  person  3  pi.,  for  a  party  more  in  proportion).  A 
winding  staircase  of  43  steps,  some  of  which  are  in  a  bad  condition, 
descends  to  the  cistern;  at  the  bottom  is  a  handsome  balustrade  hewn 
in  the  rock.  The  water  is  bad  and  impure.  The  cistern  perhaps  dates 
from  a  still  earlier  period  than  that  of  Constantine. 

The  9th  Station  of  the  Cross  (p.  50)  is  near  the  Coptic  Monastery. 


d.  From  the  Gate  of  St.  Stephen  to  the  Church  of  the  Sepulchre. 
Via  Dolorosa. 

The  question  of  the  direction  of  the  Via  Dolorosa,  or  Street  of  1'ain, 
along  which  Jesus  carried  the  Cross  to  Golgotha,  depends  upon  the  sit- 
uation assigned  to  the  Praetorium,  or  dwelling  of  Pilate.  In  the  4th  cent, 
the  supposed  site  ot  that  edifice  was  shown  near  the  Bab  el-Kaltanin 
(p.  52),  and  in  the  6th  cent,  it  was  occupied  by  a  Basilica  of  St.  Sophia. 
By  the  early  Crusaders  it  was  instinctively  felt  that  the  Prsetorium  should 
be  sought  for  on  the  W.  hill,  in  the  upper  part  of  the  town,  anil  they 
erected  there  a  church  of  St.  Peter.  At  a  later  period,  however,  that  holy 
place  was  transferred  by  tradition  to  the  spot  where  it  is  now  revered, 
and  the  so-called  'Holy  Steps'  ('Scala  Santa')  were  removed  to  Ihe  church  of 
San  Giovanni  in  Laterano  at  Rome.  The  present  Via  Dolorosa  is  not  ex- 
pressly mentioned  till  the  16th  century.  From  the  reports  of  pilgrims  it  is 
evident  that  the  sites  of  the  fourteen  Stations  (see  p.  49)  were  often  changed. 

The  Gate  of  St.  Stephen  (JB«6  Sitti  Maryam;  PI.  H,  I,  3),  situated 
on  the  E.  side  of  the  town,  on  the  way  to  the  Mt.  of  Olives  (p.  73), 
is  said  by  tradition  to  he  the  gate  through  which  Stephen  was  taken 
out  to  be  stoned  (Acts  vn.  58;  comp.  pp.  73,  87).  The  name  'Gate 
of  Our  Lady  Mary',  which  it  is  called  by  the  native  Christians,  refers 
to  the  propinquity  of  the  Tomb  of  the  Virgin  (p.  73).  The  present  gate 
probably  dates  from  the  time  of  Soliman  (p.  85).  The  passage  through 
it,  however,  has  recently  been  formed  in  a  straight  direction, wl  ereas 
originally  the  gate  was  built  at  an  angle  with  the  thoroughfare. 
Over  the  entrance,  outside,  are  two  stone  lions  in  half-relief.  The 
gate-keepers  show  a  footprint  of  Christ,  preserved  in  the  guard-kouse. 

Within  the  gate  a  doorway  on  the  N.  leads  to  the  Church  of 
St.  Anne  (PI.  II,  3),  which  is  said  to  occupy  the  site  of  the  houso 
of  Joachim  and  Anne,  the  parents  of  the  Virgin  Mary.  It  i-  first 
mentioned  in  the  7th  cent.,  was  afterwards  connected  with  a  nun- 
nery, and  was  rebuilt  about  the  middle  of  the  12th  century.  Siladin 
converted  it  into  a  richly-endowed  school,  and  hence  it  is  to  th  s  day 
known  by  the  Muslims  as  Es-Saluhiyeh.  In  1850  it  was  presented 
by  the  Sultan  to  Napoleon  III.,  and  it  is  now  in  possession  )f  the 
Freres  de  la  Mission  Africaine.  The  main  entrance  to  the  church 
on  the  W.  side  consists  of  three  pointed  portals. 

The  interior  is  120  ft.  long  and  66  ft.  wide;  the  nave  is  42  f.,  the 
aisles  21  ft.  high.  The  pointed  vaulting  rests  upon  two  rows  of  pilars. 
Above  the  centre  of  the  transept  rises  a  tapering  dome,  which  wat  prob- 


dl.  Via  Dolorosa. 


JERUSALEM. 


4.  Route.    49 


ably  restored  by  the  Arabs.  The  apses  are  rounded  inside  and  polygonal 
outsiide.  A  flight  of  21  steps  in  the  S.E.  corner  descends  to  a  crypt, 
wliii  h  is  almost  entirely  hewn  in  the  rock,  and  consists  of  two  parts. 
This'  is  said  by  tradition  to  have  been  the  birthplace  of  the  Virgin. 
The  graves  of  SS.  Joachim  and  Anne  have  also  been  shown  here  (but'COinp. 
p.  73).  Traces  of  ancient  paintings  have  also  been  discovered  in  the  crypt.  — 
A  Comienl  and  Seminary  have  been  built  on  the  land  belonging  to  the 
chnnch,  and  in  the  course  of  their  construction  an  ancient  rock-hewn 
pool  was  discovered,  with  chambers  ami  traces  of  a  medieval  church 
above  it.  The  plan  of  Jerusalem  in  the  Jladebil  mosaic  (p.  29)  shows  that 
as  eavrly  as  the  6th  cent,  the  Pool  of  Iiethesda  was  sought  for  here  (comp.  p.  67). 

IFrom  the  Gate  of  St.  Stephen  we  return  to  the  Street  of  the 
Gate  of  the  Virgin  (  Tank  Bab  Sitli  Mary  am;  PI.  G,  H,  3),  proceed 
towards  the  "W.,  and  at  the  point  where  the  street  is  vaulted  over 
observe  some  relics  of  ancient  buildings,  traditionally  said  to  be  part 
of  tine  ancient  Castle  of  Antonia  (PI.  G,  3;  p.  26).  Farther  on,  to  the 
right,  is  the  Franciscan  Chapel  of  the  Scourging  (PL  G,  3),  built  in 
1 83S.  Below  the  altar  is  a  hole  in  which  the  column  of  the  scourg- 
ing iis  said  to  have  stood  (p.  41),  but  during  the  last  few  centuries  the 
place  of  the  scourging  has  been  shown  in  many  different  parts  of  the 
city.  Adjoining  the  Chapel  of  the  Scourging  are  a  convent  and  church. 

At  tliis  point  begins  the  Via  Dolorosa,  the  14  Stations  of  which 
are  i  ndicated  by  tablets.  The  First  Station  is  in  the  barracks  (PI.  G,  3 ) 
which  rise  on  the  site  of  the  Castle  of  Antonia  (see  above)  and  are 
now  believed  to  occupy  also  the  site  of  the  Pratorium  (comp.  p.  48). 
The  Second  Station,  below  the  steps  ascending  to  the  barracks, 
marks  the  spot  where  the  Cross  was  laid  upon  Jesus. 

At  the  imposing  building  of  the  Sisters  of  Zion  (PI.  G,  3)  the 
Street  is  crossed  by  the  Eccc  Homo  Arch,  marking  the  spot  where, 
according  to  a  15th  cent,  tradition,  Pilate  uttered  the  words:  'Behold 
the  man!'  (John  xix.  f)).  The  arch  is  probably  part  of  a  Roman 
triumphal  arch;  the  N.  side-arch  now  forms  the  choir  of  the  Church 
of  the  Sisters  of  Zion.  This  church  is  partly  built  into  the  rock,  and 
in  the  vaults  beneath  it  we  may  trace  the  Roman  pavement  to  the 
full  breadth  of  the  larger  aroh.  Under  the  convent  are  several  deep 
rocky  passages  and  vaults  leading  towards  the  Haram.  —  Opposite 
the  church,  -on  the  S.  side  of  the  street,  are  a  small  mosque  and  a 
monastery  of  Indian  dervishes  (PI.  34;  G,  4);  the  outer  wall  of  the 
monastery  contains  a  niche,  said  to  be  connected  with  the  Virgin 
-Mary.  Adjoining  the  buildings  of  the  Sisters  of  Zion  are  a  new 
Greek  hospice  and  chapel. 

We  may  now  descend  the  street  to  the  point  where  it  is  joined 
by  that  from  the  Damascus  Gate  ( p.  85),  and  here  we  see  a  trace  of 
the  depression  of  what  was  formerly  the  Tyropccon  valley  (p.  30). 
To  the  right  is  situated  the  Austrian  Pilgrims'  Hospice  (PI.  i;  F,  B). 
Opposite,  on  the  left,  on  the  site  of  the  former  baths  of  the  sultan, 
are  the  Hospice  of  the  United  Armenians  ( PI.  1  i  ;  F,  4)  and  their  Church 
of  Notre  Dame  du  Spasme  (ancient  mosaic  pavement).  Close  by  is 
a  broken  column,  forming  the  Third  Station,  near  which  Christ  is 
said  to  have  sunk  under  the  weight  of  the  Cross. 


50    Route  4. 


JERUSALEM. 


d.  Via  Dolorosa. 


The  Via  Dolorosa  now  runs  to  the  S.  along  the  Damascus  Street, 
in  'which,  to  the  right,  is  situated  the  traditional  House  of  the  Poor 
Man  (Lazarus).  Farther  to  the  S.  we  see  a  picturesque  mediaeval 
house,  projecting  over  the  street  and  known  since  the  15th  cent,  as 
the  House  of  the  Rich  Man  (Dives).  The  house  is  built  of  stone  of 
various  colours.  An  inscription  in  a  lane  diverging  to  the  left 
marks  the  Fourth  Station,  where  Christ  is  said  to  have  met  his 
mother.  At  the  next  street  coming  from  the  right  the  Via  Dolorosa 
again  turns  to  the  W.,  and  now  joins  the  Tartk  el-Alam  (Tartk 
es-Serai;  PI.  F,  4),  or  route  of  suffering,  properly  so  called.  Here, 
at  the  corner,  is  the  Fifth  Station,  where  Simon  of  Cyrene  took  the 
cross  from  Christ.  A  stone  built  into  the  next  house  to  the  left  has 
a  depression  in  it  said  to  have  been  caused  by  the  hand  of  Christ. 
We  now  ascend  the  street  for  about  110  paces,  and,  near  an  archway, 
come  to  the  Sixth  Station.  To  the  left  is  the  House  (and  Tomb)  of 
St.  Veronica  (chapel  of  the  United  Greeks,  recently  restored ;  below 
is  an  ancient  crypt).  Veronica  is  said  to  have  wiped  off  the  sweat 
from  the  Saviour's  brow  at  this  spot,  whereupon  his  visage  remained 
imprinted  on  her  handkerchief.  (This  handkerchief  is  shown  as  a 
sacred  relic  in  several  European  churches.) 

The  last  part  of  the  street  is  vaulted.  Where  the  street  crosses 
the  Khan  ez-Zeit  (PI.  F,  4)  is  the  Seventh  Station,  called  the  Porta 
Judiciaria,  through  which  Christ  is  said  to  have  left  the  town,  and 
where  He  fell  a  second  time.  Close  by  is  a  modern  chapel  containing 
an  ancient  column,  said  to  be  connected  with  the  Gate  of  Justice. 
Passing  the  Prussian  Hospice  of  St.  John  (PI.  g ;  F,  4),  we  observe 
about  thirty  paces  farther  on  (1.)  a  black  cross  in  the  wall  of  the  Greek 
monastery  of -Si.  Caralombos  (PI.  19 ;  E,  F,  4).  This  is  the  Eighth  Sta- 
tion, where  Christ  is  said  to  have  addressed  the  women  who  accom- 
panied him.  —  The  Via  Dolorosa  proper  ends  here.  The  Ninth  Station 
is  in  front  of  the  Coptic  monastery  (p.  48),  where  Christ  is  said  to 
have  again  sunk  under  the  weight  of  the  cross.  The  four  next  sta- 
tions are  in  the  Golgotha  chapels  of  the  Church  of  the  Sepulchre 
(p.  43).  The  Fourteenth  and  Last  Station  is  by  the  Holy  Sepulchre 
itself  (p.  40). 


W 


e.  The  Haram  esh-Sherif  (Place  of  the  Temple). 

For  a  Visit  to  the  Haram  esh-Sherif  the  permission  of  the  Turkish 
)','  ^-authorities  and  the  escort  of  a  soldier  are,  necessary.  Both  these  are  ob- 
tained through  the  traveller's  consul,  and  the  kavass  of  the  consulate 
^oC  also  joins  the  party  as  a  rule.  Each  member  of  a  party  pays  5  fr.  to  (he 
kavass  (a  single  visitor  10  fr.),  who  is  then  responsible  for  all  expenses 
(fees,  tips,  etc.).  —  On  Friday  and  during  the  time  of  the  Nebi-Musa, 
lestival  (i.e.  Easter  Week)  entrance  is  entirely  prohibited  to  Btrpogers. 

Literature:  Vogiit,  'I.e  Temple  de  Jerusalem',  I'aris  1864.  Schick,  'Beit 
el-Makdas\  Jerusalem  J887;  'Die  Stiftshutte,  der  Tempel  in  Jerusalem,  und 
der  Tempelplatz  der  Jetztzeit',  Berlin  1895.  C/iipicz  et  Perrot,  'Le  Temple 
de  Jerusalem1,  Paris  1889.  —  The  large  Model  oj  the  Haram  esh-She-if  by 
Dr.  Schick  (at  Mrs.  Sehoeneke's)  is  well  worth  seeing." 


e.  The  Haram  esh-Sherif.     JERUSALEM. 


4.  Route.    51 


The  ancient  site  of  the  Temple,  now  called  the  Haram  esh- 
Shcerif  (PI.  G-I,  4-G)  or  'chief  sanctuary',  is  the  most  interest! im- 
part of  Jerusalem.  It  is  surrounded  by  walls,  with  a  few  houses  on 
thei  N.  and  W.,  and  is  occupied  by  numerous  buildings.  This  area 
has;  been  a  place  of  religious  sanctity  from  time  immemorial.  Here 
Da  vid  erected  an  altar  (2  Sam.  xxrv.  25).  This  was  also  the  site 
selected  by  Solomon  for  the  erection  of  his  palace  and  the  Temple, 
which,  to  judge  from  the  formation  of  the  ground,  must  have  occupied 
pretty  much  the  same  site  as  the  present  'Dome  of  the  Rock'  (comp. 
p.  81).  The  tenacity  with  which  religious  traditions  have  clung  to 
special  spots  iu  the  East,  defying  all  the  vicissitudes  of  creeds  down 
to  tthe  present  day,  also  confirms  this  view.  The  sacred  rock  probably 
bore  the  altar  of  burnt  offerings  (p.  56),  while  the  Temple  itself  stood 
to  the  W.  of  it.  Solomon's  Temple  consisted  of  the  'sanctuary'  and 
the  'holy  of  holies',  the  latter  to  the  W.  of  the  former,  and  in  the 
forim  of  a  cube.  The  porch  of  the  sanctuary,  to  the  right  and  left 
of  ■which  stood  the  two  columns  of  Jachin  and  Boaz,  opened  upon 
the  court  which  contained  the  altar  of  burnt  offerings,  the  'molten 
sea"  (a  large  basin),  the. 'bases',  and  the  lavers.  For  many  years 
alter  Solomon's  death  the  work  was  continued  by  his  successors. 
The  Second  Temple,  which  the  Jews  erected  under  very  adverse 
circumstances  after  their  return  from  exile,  was  far  inferior  in  mag- 
nificence to  its  predecessor,  and  no  trace  of  it  now  remains.  All  the 
moire  magnificent  was  the  Third  Temple,  that  of  Herod.  The  erection 
of  this  edifice  was  begun  in  B.C.  20,  but  it  was  never  completely 
carried  out  in  the  style  originally  projected.  After  the  destruction 
of  Herod's  Temple  in  70  A.D.  Hadrian  erected  here  a  large  temple 
of  Jupiter,  containing  statues  of  that  god  and  himself  (or  of  Castor 
and  Pollux  ?).  Coins  of  the  period  show  that  this  building  was  adorned 
with  twelve  columns.  The  earliest  pilgrims  found  the  temple  and 
tlie  equestrian  statue  of  the  emperor  still  standing,  near  the  'Holy 
Rock'  (p.  5G).  There  is  a  great  controversy  as  to  what  buildings  were 
afterwards  erected  on  this  site.  Mohammed,  who  asserted  that  he 
had  visited  the  spot  (comp.  p.  56),  professed  great  veneration  for 
the  ancient  temple,  and  before  he  had  Anally  broken  off  his  relations 
with  the  Jews,  he  even  commanded  the  faithful  to  turn  towards 
Jerusalem  when  praying.  The  Khalif  'Omar  found  the  spot  covered 
with  heaps  of  rubbish  which  the  Christians  had  thrown  there  in 
derision  of  the  Jews.  To  this  day  the  Haram  of  Jerusalem  is  re- 
garded by  the  Muslims  as  the  holiest  of  all  places  after  Mecca.  The 
Jews  never  enter  it,  as  they  dread  the  possibility  of  committing  the 
sin  of  treading  on  the  'Holy  of  Holies'. 

We  possess  an  account  of  the  Herodian  Temple  by  the  Jewish  writer 
Flaring  Josephiis,  who  accompanied  Titus  to  Rome  .and  there  wrote  a 
history  of  the  Jewish  war  and  his  books  on  Jewish  antiquities  (Ant.  xv.  11; 
Hell.  Jud.  1.21;  v.  5).  To  the  Herodian  period  belong  the  imposing  sub- 
structions on  the  S.  side  of  the  Haram,  in  which  direction  the  Temple 
platform  was   at  that  time  much  extended,  and  also  the  enclosing  walls, 


52    Route  4. 


JERUSALEM. 


e.  The  Haram 


which  were  constructed  out  of  gigantic  blocks  of  stone  (pp.  03  64).  The 
entire  area  was  surrounded  by  double  rows  of  monolithic  columns;  on 
the  S.  side  the  colonnade  was  quadruple,  and  consisted  of  16*?  columns. 
There  were  four  gates  on  the  \V.  side  and  two  on  the  S.  side.  'Solo- 
mon's Porch''  (John  x.  23)  was  probably  on  the  E.  side,  but  it  is  un- 
certain whether  there  was  a  gate  here.  In  Ihe  middle  lay  the  great  Court 
or  the  Gentiles,  which  always  presented  a  busy  scene.  A  balustrade 
enclose!  a  second  court,  lying  higher,  where  notice!  were  placed  pro- 
hibiting all  but  Israelites  from  entering  this  Inner  Court.  One  of  these 
notices  in  the  Greek  language  was  discovered  among  the  supposed  ruins 
of  the  Castle  of  Antonia  in  the  street  of  the  Gate  of  the  Virgin  (p.  4!)), 
closely  corresponding  with  the  description  given  by  Josephus.  A  section 
of  the  fore-court  of  the  tsra elites  was  specially  set  apart  for  the  women, 
beyond  which  lay  the  Court  of  the  Priests  with  the  great  sacrificial 
altar  of  unhewn  stones.  A  deep,  richly  decorated  corridor  now  ascended 
by  twelve  steps  to  the  Sanctuary,  or  'holy  place1  strictly  so  called,  which 
occupied  the  highest  ground  on  the  Temple  area.  The  sanctuary  was 
surrounded  on  three  sides  ($.,  W.,  N.)  by  a  building  20  ells  in  height, 
containing  3  stories,  the  upper  story  rising  to  10  ells  beneath  the  top  ol 
1li  'holy  place',  so  that  space  remained  for  windows  to  light  the  interior 
of  the  Sanctuary.  Hcyond  the  gate  was  the.  curtain  or  'veil",  within  which 
stood  the  altar  of  incense,  the  table  with  the  shew-bread,  and  Ihe  golden 
candlestick.  In  the  background  ot  the  'holy  place'  a  door  led  into  the 
small  and  dark  Holy  op  Holies,  a  cube  of  20  ells.  The  Temple  was 
built  of  magnificent  materials,  and  many  parts  of  it  were  lavishly  dec- 
orated with  plates  of  gold.  On  the  N.  side  two  passages  led  from  the 
colonnades  of  the  Temple  to  the  castle  by  which  the  sacred  edifice  was 
protected.  It  was  thence  that  Titus  witnessed  the  burning  of  the  beautiful 
building  in  the  year  A.D.  70. 

The  Haram  is  entered  from  the  town  by  seven  gates,  viz.  (begin- 
ning from  the  S.I  the  Bab  el-Mughdribeh  (gate  of  the  Moghrebins), 
Bab  cs-Silseleh  (chain-gate;  comp.  p.  64),  Bab  el-Mutawaddd,  or 
Matara  (gate  of  ablution),  Bab  el-KaUdriln  (gate  of  the  cotton- 
merchants),  Bab  el-Hadul  (iron  gate),  Bab  cn-Ndzir  (custodian's 
gate),  also  called  Bab  el-Habs  (prison  gate),  and  lastly,  towards  the 
IN..  Bab  es- Serai  (gate  of  the  seraglio),  also  called  the  Bab  el- 
Qhawdnimeh  (named  after  the  family  of  Beni  Ghanim).  —  The  W. 
side  of  the  Haram  is  536  yds.,  the  E.  518  yds.,  the  N.  351  yds.,  and 
the  S.  309  yds.  in  length.  The  surface,  is  not  entirely  level,  the 
N.W.  corner  being  about  10  ft.  higher  than  the  N.E.  and  the  two 
S.  corners.  The  W.  and  N.  sides  of  the  quadrangle  are  partly  flanked 
with  houses,  with  open  arcades  below  them,  and  the  E.  side  is 
bounded  by  a  wall.  Scattered  over  the  entire  area  are  a  number  of 
Mastabas  (raised  places)  with  Mihrdbs  (prayer-recesses;  p.  lxxiv), 
and  there  are  also  numerous  SebUs  (fountains)  for  the  religious  ablu- 
tions. Jt  is  irregularly  planted  with  cypresses  and  other  trees.  — 
Visitors  are  usually  conducted  first  through  the  cotton-merehnits' 
gate  (Bab  el-  Kattantn),  near  the  bazaar  mentioned  at  p.  64 
(PI.  (i,  5),  and  past  the  Sebll  Kail  Bei  (pp.  57,  58)  to  the  Mehktmet 
Vaud  (p.  67). 

The  *Dome  of  the  Rock,  or  Kubbet  es-Sakhra,  formerly  er- 
roneously called  by  the  Franks  the  Mosque  of 'Omar,  is  said  by  Arab 
historians  to  have  been  built  by  'Abd  el-Melik.   AtOuflc  inscription 


b_K**vl*W<_  (%+*4^  {jA^A^ 


esh-Sherlf. 


JERUSALEM. 


/.  Route. 


53 


in  the  interior  of  the  building  mentions  the  year  72  of  the  Hegira 
(691-692  A.D.)  as  the  date  of  its  erection,  but  names  as  its  builder 
'Abdallah  el-Imam  el-Mam  fin,  who  ruled  813-833  A.D.  From  this 
discrepancy,  and  from  the  different  colour  of  this  part  of  the  in- 
scription, we  must  assume  that  the  name  of  el-Mamun  was  sub- 
stituted at  a  later  period  for  that  of  el-Melik.  cAbd  el-Melik  was 
moved  by  political  considerations  to  erect  a  sanctuary  on  this  spot, 
as  admission  to  the  Ka'ba  in  Mecca  was  at  that  time  refused  to  the 
Omayyades  (p.  lxxxi).  Mamfin  probably  restored  the  building,  a  sup- 
position which  receives  confirmation  from  the  inscription  on  the 
doors  (p.  64).  A  second  restoration  took  place  in  the  year  301  of 
the  ilegira  (913  A.D.).  The  resemblance  to  Byzantine  forms  need 
not  surprise  us,  as  at  that  time  the  Arabs  were  practically  dependent 
on  Greek  architects.  —  The  Crusaders  took  the  building  for  the 
oldest  Temple  of  Solomon,  and  the  Templars  erected  several  churches 
in  Europe  on  this  model  (at  London,  Laon,  Metz,  etc.).  The  poly- 
gonal outline  of  this  mosque  is  even  to  be  seen  in  the  background 
of  Raphael's  celebrated  'Sposalizio'  in  the  Brera  at  Milan. 

The  Dome  of  the  Rock  stands  on  an  irregular  platform  10  ft.  in 
height,  approached  by  three  flights  of  steps  from  the  W.,  two  from 
the-  S.,  one  from  the  E.,  and  two  from  the  N.  side.  The  steps  ter- 
minate in  elegant  arcades,  called  in  Arabic  Mmoazin,  or  scales,  be- 
cause the  scales  at  the  Day  of  Judgment  are  to  be  suspended  here. 
These  arcades  afford  a  good  view  of  the  entire  Haratn.  The  building 
forms  an  octagon,  each  of  the  sides  of  which  is  66  ft.  7  in.  in  length. 
The  lower  part  of  it  is  covered  with  marble  slabs,  while  the  part 
Iron  the  window-sills  upward  is  covered  with  porcelain-tiles  in  the 
Peisian  style  (Kashani).  This  porcelain  incrustation,  which  was 
added  by  Soliman  the  Magnificent  in  1561,  is  very  effective,  the 
sutdued  blue  contrasting  beautifully  with  the  white,  and  with  the 
green  and  white  squares  on  the  edges.  Passages  from  the  Koran, 
beautifully  inscribed  in  interwoven  characters,  run  round  the  build- 
ing like  a  frieze.  In  each  of  those  sides  of  the  octagon  which  are 
without  doors  are  seven,  and  on  each  of  the  other  sides  are  sixwin- 
dovs  with  low  pointed  arches,  the  outer  pair  of  windows  being  walled 
up  in  each  case.  The  present  form  of  the  windows  is  not  older  than 
the  16th  century,  and  formerly  seven  lofty  round-arched  windows 
with  a  sill  and  smaller  round-arched  openings  were  visible  externally 
on  each  side.  A  porch  is  supposed  to  have  existed  here  formerly. 
Mosaics  have  also  been  discovered  between  the  arcades. 

The  Gates,  which  face  the  four  cardinal  points  of  the  compass, 
are  square  in  form,  each  being  surmounted  with  a  vaulted  arch.  In 
froit  of  each  entrance  there  was  originally  an  open,  vaulted  porch, 
bone  by  four  columns.  Subsequently  the  spaces  between  the  col- 
umis  were- built  up.  The  S.  Portal,  however,  forms  an  exception, 
as  -here  is  here  an  open  porch  with  eight  engaged  columns.  The 
W.  mtrance  is  a  modern  structure  of  the  beginning  of  the  19th  cent- 
ftUDEEBB's  Palestine  and  Syria.   4th  Edit.  4 


54    Route  4. 


JERUSALEM. 


e.   The  Hnram 


ury.  The  N.  Portal  is  called  Bab  cl-Jcnneh,  or  gate  of  paradise;  the 
W.,  Bdb  el-Gharb,  or  W.  gate;  the  S.,  Bab  el-Kibleh,  or  S.  gate,  and 
the  E.,  Bab  Daud  or  Bab  es-Silseleh,  gate  of  David,  or  chain  gate. 
On  the  lintels  of  the  doors  are  inscriptions  of  the  reign  of  Mamiun, 
dating  from  the  year  831,  or  216  of  the  Hegira.  The  twofold  d  oors 
dating  from  the  time  of  Soliman,  are  of  wood,  covered  with  plates 
of  hronze  attached  by  means  of  elegantly  wrought  nails,  and  have 
artistically  executed  locks. 


a.  Es-Sakhra  (the  Sacrcii  R<  >ck). 

b.  Bdb  el-Jenneh  (Gate   of    Pa- 
radise). 

c.  Bdb  el-Oharb  (W.  Gate). 


(1.  Bdb  el  Kibkh 
(S.  G*te). 


e.  Bdb  es-Silseleh  (David's,  or 
Chain  Gate). 

f.  Mehkemet  Ddiid  or  Kubbet  es- 
Silseleh   (David's   place    of 

judgment,  or  Chain  Dome). 


The  Interior  of  the  edifice  is  58  yds.  in  diameter,  and  is  divided 
into  three  concentric  parts  by  two  series  of  supports.  The  first  series, 
by  which  the  outer  octagonal  aisle  is  formed,  consists  of  eight  hex- 
agonal piers  and  sixteen  columns.  The  shafts  of  the  columns  are 
marble  monoliths,  and  differ  in  form,  height,  and  colour.  They  have 
all  been  taken  from  older  edifices,  probably  from  the  temple  of 
Jupiter  mentioned  at  p.  51.  The  capitals  are  likewise  of  very  various 
forms,  dating  either  from  the  late-Romanesque  or  the  early-Byzan- 
tine period,  and  one  of  them  formerly  bore  a  cross.  To  secure  a 
uniform  height  of  20  ft.,  large  Byzantine  blocks  which  support  small 
arches  are  placed  above  the  capitals.  These  blocks  are  connected 
by  so-called  'anchors',  or  broad  beams  consisting  of  iron  bars  with 
•wooden  beams  beside  and  beneath  them.  These  are  covered  beneath 
with  copper -plates  In  repousse*.  On  the  beams  lie  marble  slabs, 
which  project  like  a  cornice  en  the  side  next  the  external  wall,  but 
are  concealed  by  caning  on  that  next  the  rotunda,  L'nder  the  ends 
of  the  beams  are  placed  foliated  enrichments  in  bronze.  While  the 
pilasters  are  covered  with  slabs  of  marble,  dating  from  the  period 
of  Soliman,  the  upper  part  of  the  wall  is  intersected  by  arches  and 


eah-Sherif. 


JERUSALEM. 


4.  Route.    55 


adtorned  with  mosaics.  The  rich  and  variegated  designs  of  these 
mcosaics  are  not  easily  described.  They  consist  of  fantastic  lines 
inttertwined  with  striking  boldness,  and  frequently  of  garlands  of 
flo>wers,  and  are  all  beautifully  and  elaborately  executed.  Above 
thffim  is  a  broad  blue  band,  hearing  very  ancient  Cuflc  inscriptions 
in   gold  letters.    These  are  verses  of  the  Koran  hearing  reference  to 

Chirist:  — 

Sureh  xvii.  Ill:  Say — Praise  be  to  God  who  has  had  no  son  or  com- 
paraion  in  his  government,  and  who  requires  no  helper  to  save  him  from 
dishonour;  praise  him.  Sureh  lvii.  2:  He  governs  heaven  and  earth,  he 
maikes  alive  and  causes  to  die,  for  he  is  almighty.  Sureh  iv.  169:  O  ye 
whio  have  received  written  revelations,  do  not  be  puffed  up  with  your 
religion,  but  speak  the  truth  only  of  God.  The  Messiah  Jesus  is  only  the 
som  of  Mary,  the  ambassador  of  God,  and  his  Word  which  he  deposited 
in  Mary.  Believe  then  in  God  and  his  ambassador,  and  do  not  maintain 
there  are  three.  If  you  refrain  from  this  it  will  be  better  for  you.  God 
is  One,  and  far  be  it  from  him  that  he  should  have  had  a  son.  To  him 
beliongs  all  that  is  in  heaven  and  earth,  and  he  is  all-sufficient  within 
hinnself.  Sureh  xix.  34  et  seq. :  Jesus  says  —  'Blessings  be  on  me  on  the 
dajy  of  my  birth  and  of  my  death,  and  of  my  resurrection  to  life.'  He  is 
Jesus,  the  son  of  Mary,  the  word  of  truth,  concerning  whom  some  are  in 
dombt.  God  is  not  so  constituted  that  he  could  have  a  son;  be  that  far  from 
hiim.  When  he  has  resolved  upon  anything  he  says  'Let  it  be',  and  it  is. 
GO'd  is  my  Lord  and  your  Lord ;  pray  then  to  him ;  that  is  the  right  way. 

Here,  too,  is  an  inscription  of  great  historical  importance,  which 
we  have  already  mentioned  at  pp.  52,  53. 

A  second  aisle  is  formed  by  a  second  series  of  supports  arranged 
in  a  circle,  on  which  also  rests  the  dome.  These  supports  consist  of 
four  massive  piers  and  twelve  monolithic  columns.  These  columns 
also  are  antique;  their  bases  were  covered  with  marble  in  the 
16th  century.  The  arches  above  them  rest  immediately  on  the 
capitals.  —  The  drum  under  the  dome  is  richly  adorned  with  mo- 
saics on  a  gold  ground,  and  its  upper  part  contains  16  windows.  The 
mosaics  are  by  Byzantine  artists  of  the  10- 11th  centuries.  The 
flower-vases  with  grapes  and  ears  of  corn  recall  Christian  representa- 
tions in  which  these  devices  are  used  as  emblems  of  the  Last  Supper. 

The  Dome  erected  by  Hakim  in  1022,  on  the  site  of  the  original 
dome  which  had  fallen  in  six  years  previously,  consists  of  two 
wooden  vaults  placed  one  inside  the  other.  The  innermost  of  these, 
371/2  ft.  high  and  66  ft.  in  diameter,  is  in  the  form  of  a  stilted 
hemisphere,  while  the  outer  hemisphere,  98  ft.  high,  is  somewhat 
flattened.  A  flight  of  steps  ascends  between  the  two  vaults,  and  at 
the  top  is  a  trap-door  giving  access  to  the  crescent,  which  is  16  ft. 
higher.  The  stucco  incrustation  of  the  inner  dome,  with  its  rich 
painting  upon  a  blue  ground,  was  restored  by  Saladin  in  1189,  and 
its  colouring  was  revived  in  1318  and  1830. 

The  window-openings  are  closed  with  thick  slabs  of  plaster  per- 
forated with  holes  and  slits  of  various  shapes,  wider  inside  than  out- 
side.  These  perforations  have  been  glazed  on  the  outside  with  small 
coloured  glass  plates,  forming  a  variety  of  designs.  When  the  doors  \^ 
are  closed,  the  effect  of  the  colours  is  one  of  marvellous  richness, 

4* 


56    Route  4. 


JERUSALEM. 


e.  The  Havana 


\S 


but  the  windows  shed  a  dim  light  only  on  the  interior,  and  the 
darkness  is  increased,  firstly  by  regular  glass  windows  framed  in 
cement,  secondly  by  a  wire  lattice,  and  lastly  by  a  porcelain  grating 
placed  over  them  outside  to  protect  them  from  rain.  The  loiwer 
windows  bear  the  name  of  Soliman  and  the  date  935  (i.e.  15"28). 
Saladin  caused  the  walls  to  be  covered  with  marble,  and  they  were 
restored  by  Soliman.  —  The  pavement  consists  of  marble  mcsaic 
and  marble  flagging. 

The  wrought-iron  screen  connecting  the  columns  of  the  inner 
row  is  a  French  work  of  the  end  of  the  12th  cent.,  when  the  Cru- 
saders converted  the  mosque  into  a  'Templum  Domini'  and  fitted 
it  up  for  the  Christian  form  of  worship.  The  Holy  Rock  is  surrounded 
by  a  coloured  wooden  screen.  The  best  view  of  it  is  obtained  from 
the  high  bench  by  the  N.W.  gate  of  the  screen.  The  Rock  is  58  ft. 
long  and  44  ft.  wide,  and  rises  about  4-6'/2  ft.  above  the  surroun  ting 
pavement.  It  may  have  been  the  site  of  the  great  altar  of  burnt- 
offering  (p.  51),  and  traces  of  a  channel  for  carrying  off  the  blood 
have  been  discovered  in  the  rock.  The  Ark  of  the  Covenant  cannot 
have  stood  here,  as  the  rock  is  much  too  large  ever  to  have  stood  in 
the  'holy  of  holies'.  There  is  a  hollow  under  the  rock  (PI.  m)  to 
which  11  steps  descend  on  the  S.  side,  and  no  doubt  excavations,  if 
permitted,  would  show  that  this  was  a  cistern.  The  round  slab  of 
stone  in  the  middle  rings  hollow.  The  Crusaders  erected  an  altar 
on  the  rock  and  made  it  accessible  by  steps  of  which  traces  are  still 
visible.  A  fragment  is  also  visible  of  the  two  walls  with  which  they 
enclosed  the  choir. 

According  to  the  Talmud,  the  Holy  Rock  covers  the  mouth  of  an 
abyss  in  which  the  waters  of  the  Flood  are  heard  roaring.  Abraham 
and  Melchizedek  sacrificed  here,  Abraham  was  on  the  point  of  slaying 
Isaac  here,  and  the  rock  is  said  to  have  been  anointed  by  Jacob.  It  was 
regarded  as  the  centre  of  the  world,  and  as  the  'stone  of  foundation' 
(eben  shatyd),  that  is,  the  spot  upon  which  the  Ark  of  the  Covenant  stood. 
On  the  destruction  of  Jerusalem,  Jeremiah  is  said  to  have  concealed  the 
Ark  beneath  the  rock  (but  according  to  2  Mace.  n.  5  in  a  cave  in  Mount 
Neho),  and,  according  to  Jewish  tradition,  it  still  lies  buried  there.  Jesus 
is  said  to  have  discovered  the  great  and  unspeakable  name  of  God  (shem) 
written  upon  the  rock,  and  was  enabled  to  work  his  miracles  by  reading 
it.  The  Muslims  carried  these  traditions  farther.  According  to  them  the 
stone  hovers  over  the  abyss  without  support.  In  the  hollow  below  it 
small  benches  are  shown  as  the  places  where  David,  Solomon,  Abra- 
ham (left),  and  Elijah  were  in  the  habit  of  praying.  The  Muslims  main 
tain  that  beneath  this  rock  is  the  Bir  el-Anoah^  or  well  of  souls,  wTWre 
the  souls  of  the  deceased  assemble  to  pray  twice  weekly.  Some  say  that 
the  rock  rests  upon  a  palm  watered  by  a  river  of  paradise;  others  assert 
that  it  is  the  gate  of  hell.  Mohammed  declared  that  one  prayer  here 
was  better  than  a  thousand  elsewhere.  He  himself  prayed  here,  to  the 
right  of  the  holy  ruck,  and  from  hence  he  was  translated  to  heaven  on 
the  back  of  El-Burak,  Ms  miraculous  steed.  In  the  ceiling  is  shown  an 
impression  of  his  head;  and  on  the  W.  side  is  shown  the  mark  of  the 
hand  of  the  an»el  (PI.  h)  who  restrained  the  rock  in  its  attempt  to  follow 
the  prophet  to  heaven.  The  rock  is  said  to  have  spoken  on  this  occasion, 
as  it  did  afterwards  when  it  greeted  'Omar,  and  it  therefore  has  a  'tongue", 
over  the  entrance  to  the  cavern.  At  the  last  day  the  Ka'ba  of  Mecca 
will  come  to  the  Sakhra,    for  here  will  resound  the  blast  of  the  trumpet 


esh-SherTf. 


JERUSALEM. 


d.  Route. 


57 


whiich  will   announce  the  judgment.     God's  throne  will  then  be  planted 
upum  the  rock. 

A  number  of  other  marvels  are  shown  in  the  Dome  of  the  Rock.  In 
fromt  of  the  N.  entrance  there  is  let  into  the  ground  a  slab  of  jasper 
(Bailatat  el-Jenneh,  PI.  g),  said  to  have  been  the  cover  of  Solomon's  tomb, 
int(o  which  Mohammed  drove  nineteen  golden  nails;  a  nail  falls  out  at 
the  end  of  every  epoch,  and  when  all  are  gone  the  end  of  the  world  will 
arnive.  One  day  the  devil  succeeded  in  destroying  all  but  three  and  a 
halif,  but  was  fortunately  detected  and  stopped  by  the  angel  Gabriel.  — 
In  the  S.W.  corner  (PI.  i),  under  a  small  gilded  tower,  is  shown  the 
footprint  of  the  prophet,  which  in  the  middle  ages  was  said  to  be  that 
of  (Christ.  Hairs  from  Mohammed's  beard  are  also  preserved  here,  and. 
on  the  S.  side  are  shown  the  banners  of  Mohammed  and  'Omar.  —  By 
the  prayer-niche  (PI.  1)  adjoining  the  S.  door  are  placed  several  Korans 
of  great  age,  but  the  custodian  is  much  displeased  if  they  are  touched 
by   visitors. 

Outside  the  E.  door  of  the  mosque,  the  Bab  es-Silscleh,  or  Door 
of  tthe  Chain  (which  must  not  be  confounded  with  the  entrance-gate 
of  tthe  same  name,  p.  52),  rises  the  elegant  little  Kubbet  ea-Silseleh, 
or  'dome  of  the  chain',  also  called  Mehkemet  Daud,  David's  place  of 
judlgment.  The  creation  and  decoration  of  this  building  seem  to 
belong  to  the  same  period  as  those  of  the  Dome  of  the  Rock.  Accord- 
ing; to  Muslim  tradition,  a  chain  was  once  stretched  across  this  en- 
trance by  Solomon,  or  by  God  himself.  A  truthful  witness  could 
grasp  it  without  producing  any  effect,  whereas  a  link  fell  off  if  a 
perjurer  attempted  to  do  so.  This  structure  consists  of  two  concentric 
rows  of  columns,  the  outer  forming  a  hexagon,  the  inner  an  en- 
dec  agon.  This  remarkable  construction  enables  all  the  pillars  to  be 
seen  at  one  time.  These  columns  also  have  been  taken  from  older 
lnii  ldings  and  are  chiefly  in  the  Byzantine  style.  The  pavement  is 
covered  with  beautiful  mosaic,  and  on  the  S.  side  (facing  Mecca) 
there  is  a  large  recess  for  prayer.  Above  the  flat  roof  rises  a  hexa- 
gonal drum  surmounted  by  the  dome,  which  is  slightly  curved  out- 
wards.   The  top  is  adorned  with  a  crescent. 

About  20  yds.  to  the  N.W.  of  the  Sakhra  rises  the  Kubbet  el- 
Mi' raj,  or  Dome  of  the  Ascension,  erected  to  commemorate  Moham- 
med's miraculous  nocturnal  journey  from  Mecca  to  Jerusalem  (p.  58). 
According  to  the  inscription,  the  structure  was  rebuilt  in  the  year 
597  of  the  Ilegira  (i.e.  1200).  It  is  interesting  to  observe  the  marked 
(iothio  character  of  the  windows,  with  their  recessed  and  pointed 
arches  borne  by  columns.  Close  by  is  an  ancient  font,  now  used  as 
a  water-trough.  Farther  towards  the  N.W.  is  the  Kubbet  en-Nebi 
(dome  of  the  prophet),  a  modern-looking  building  over  a  subterranean 
mosque  built  in  the  rock.  This  mosque  is  not  shown  to  visitors. 
There  is  also  a  very  small  building  called  the  Kubbet  el-Arwdh  (dome 
of  the  spirits ),  which  is  interesting  from  the  fact  that  the  bare  rock 
is  visible  below  it.  Beside  the  flight  of  steps  on  the  N.W.,  leading 
down  from  the  terrace,  is  the  Kubbet  el-Khidr  (St.  George's  Dome). 
Here  Solomon  is  said  to  have  tormented  the  demons. 

More  to  the  S.  we  observe  below,  between  us  and  the  houses 
encircling  the  Haram,  an  elegant  fountain-structure,  called  the  SebU 


58    Route  4. 


JERUSALEM. 


e.  The  ffarann 


Kdit  Bei,  -which  was  erected  in  the  year  849  of  the  Hegira  (1445) 
by  the  Mameluke  sultan  Melik  el-Ashraf  Abu'n-Naser  Kait-I5ei. 
Above  a  small  cube,  the  corners  of  which  are  adorned  -with  pilllars, 
rises  a  cornice  and  above  this  an  octagonal  drum  with  sixteen  facets; 
over  this  again  a  dome  of  stone,  the  outside  of  which  is  entirely 
covered  with  arabesques  in  relief. 

At  the  S.E.  angle  of  the  terrace  there  is  an  elegant  pulpit  in 
marble,  called  the 'summer  pulpit'  or  Pulpit  of  Kadi  Burhan  ed-Dln 
from  its  builder  (d.  1456).  A  sermon  is  preached  here  every  Friday 
during  the  fast  of  the  month  Ramadan.  The  horseshoe  arches  sup- 
porting the  pulpit,  and  the  slender  columns,  above  which  rise  arches 
of  trefoil  form,  present  a  fine  example  of  genuine  Arabian  art. 

The  other  huildings  on  the  terrace  are  unimportant,  consisting 
of  Koran  schools  and  dwellings.  Objects  of  greater  interest  are  the 
cisterns  with  which  the  rock  is  deeply  honeycombed,  especially  to 
the  S.W.  of  the  Dome  of  the  Rock.  Numerous  holes  through  which 
the  water  is  drawn  are  visible  on  the  surface. 

Passing  the  pulpit,  and  descending  a  flight  of  twenty-one  steps 
towards  the  S.,  we  soon  reach  a  large  round  basin  (el-Kas),  probably 
once  fed  by  a  conduit  from  the  pools  of  Solomon  (p.  108).  To  the 
E.  of  this,  in  front  of  the  Aksa,  there  is  a  cistern  hewn  in  the  rocks 
known  as  the  Sea,  or  the  King's  Cistern,  which  was  also  supplied 
from  Solomon's  pools.  This  reservoir  is  mentioned  both  by  Tacitus 
and  the  earliest  pilgrims.  It  was  probably  constructed  before  Herod's 
time.  It  is  upwards  of  40  ft.  in  depth,  and  246  yds.  in  circumference. 
A  staircase  hewn  in  the  rock  descends  to  these  remarkably  spacious 
vaults,  which  are  supported  by  pillars  of  rock.  Immediately  in  front 
of  the  portal  of  the  Aksa  mosque  is  another  cistern  called  the  Bir 
el-Waraka,  or  leaf  fountain.  A  companion  of 'Omar,  having  once 
let  his  pitcher  fall  into  this  cistern,  descended  to  recover  it,  and 
discovered  a  gate  which  led  to  orchards.  He  there  plucked  a  leaf, 
placed  it  behind  his  ear,  and  showed  it  to  his  friends  after  he  had 
quitted  the  cistern.    The  leaf  came  from  paradise  and  never  faded. 

The  *Aksa  Mosque  (Mesjid  el-Aksd),  the  'most  distant'  shrine 
(i.e.  from  Mecca),  to  which  God  brought  the  prophet  Mohammed 
from  Mecca  in  one  night  (Sureh  xvii.  l)j  is  said  to  be  an  ancient  holy 
place  of  Proto-Islam,  and  to  have  been  founded  only  forty  years 
after  the  foundation  of  the  Ka'ba  by  Abraham. 

The  probability,  however,  is  that  it  was  originally  a  basilica  erected 
by  the  Emperor  Justinian  in  honour  of  the  Virgin  Mary.  Procopius, 
who  has  described  the  buildings  of  Justinian,  states  that  artificial 
substructions  were  necessary  in  this  case.  The  nave,  in  particular, 
rests  on  subterranean  vaults.  The  building  was  of  so  great  width 
that  it  was  difficult  to  find  beams  long  enough  for  the  roof.  The 
ceiling  was  borne  by  two  rows  of  columns,  one  above  the  other. 
'Omar  converted  the  church  into  a  mosque.  'Abd  el-Melik  (j>.  53) 
caused  the  doors  of  the  Aksa  to  be  overlaid  with  gold  and  silver 


esh-Sherif. 


JERUSALEM. 


4.  Route.    59 


plates.  During  the  caliphate  of  Abu  Jar far  el-Man  sur  (758-775)  the 
E.  and  W.  sides  were  damaged  by  an  earthquake,  and  in  order  to 
obtain  money  to  repair  the  mosque  the  precious  metals  with  which 
it  was  adorned  were  converted  into  coin.  El-Mehdi  (776-795),  find- 
ing the  mosque  again  in  ruins  in  consequence  of  an  earthquake, 
caused  it  to  be  rebuilt  in  an  altered  form,  its  length  being  now  re- 
duced, but  its  width  increased.  In  1060  the  roof  fell  in,  but  was 
speedily  repaired.  "With  the  exception  of  a  few  capitals  and  columns, 
there  is  little  left  of  Justinian's  building,  but  the  ground-plan  of 
the  basilica  has  been  maintained.    The  mosque  is^88  yds. '£long  and 


LCJLXEXX 


I   *""-^\^»  ^.Ji*  -*Kj— h-3£-*^|^^ 


1.  Porch. 

2.  Pulpit. 

3.  Footprint  of  Christ. 

4.  Mosque  of  'Omar. 

5.  Tomb  of  the  Sons  of  Aaron. 

6.  Pointed  Arcade. 

7.  Pair  of  Columns. 
Cistern. 

.*/.  Entrance  to  the  old  AHA. 

10.  Mosque  of  the  40  Witnesses. 

11.  Place  of  Zacharias. 


60  yds.  wide,  not  reckoning  the  annexes.  Its  principal  axis  rests 
perpendicularly  on  the  S.  enclosing  wall  of  the  Haram. 

The  Porch  (PI.  1),  in  its  present  form,  consists  of  seven  arcades 
leading  into  the  seven  aisles  of  the  building.  It  was  erected  by 
Melik  el-Mu'azzam  'Isa  in  1236,  and  was  restored  at  a  later  period; 
the  roof  is  not  older  than  the  15th  century.  The  central  arcades 
show  an  attempt  to  imitate  the  Gothic  style  of  the  Franks,  but  the 
columns,  capitals,  and  bases  do  not  harmonize,  as  they  are  taken 
from  ancient  buildings  of  different  styles. 

The  Interior,  with  its  nave  and  triple  aisles,  presents  a  striking 
appearance.  The  original  plan  has  single  aisles  only,  the  E.  aisle, 
as  in  the  case  of  the  mosque  of  the  Omayyades  at  Damascus,  being 
adjoined  by  the  court  of  the  mosque.  The  great  transept  with  the 
dome,  which  perhaps  belongs  to  the  restoration  of  El-Mehdi,  gave  the 
ediice  a  cruciform  shape.  This,  however,  was  afterwards  obliterated 
by  -,he  two  rows  of  lower  aisles  added  on  the  E.  and  W.  In  their 
present  form,  however,  the  outer  aisles  belong  to  a  later  restoration. 
The  piers  are  of  a  simple  square  form,  and  the  vaulting  is  pointed. 

The  Nave  and  its  two  immediately  adjoining  aisles  are  less  elegant 
than  the  outer  aisles,  but  show  greater  originality.    The  columns  of 


60 


Route  4. 


JERUSALEM. 


e.  The  Haram 


the  nave  were  taken  from  the  church  of  Justinian,  hut  have  been 
shortened,  and  therefore  look  somewhat  clumsy.  The  capitals,  some 
of  which  still  show  the  form  of  the  acanthus  leaf,  perhaps  date  from 
the  7th  century.  The  wide  arches  above  them  are  of  later  date,  and 
here  again  we  And  the  wooden  'anchor',  or  connecting  beam  between 
the  arches,  which  is  peculiar  to  the  Arabs.  Above  the  arches  is  a 
double  row  of  windows,  the  higher  of  which  look  into  the  open  air, 
the  lower  into  the  aisles.  The  nave  has  a  lofty  timber  roof,  rising 
high  above  all  the  others.  The  two  immediately  adjoining  aisles 
have  similar  roofs,  the  gables  of  which,  curiously  enough,  are  at 
right  angles  to  the  main  axis  of  the  building.  The  outer  aisles  are 
covered  witli  groined  vaulting  under  flat  terrace-roofs. 

The  Transept  is  also  constructed  of  old  materials,  and  according 
to  an  inscription  was  restored  by  Saladin  in  583  (1187).  The  columns 
are  antique  and  vary  in  form  and  material  and  even  in  height.  The 
fine  mosaics  on  a  gold  ground  in  the  drum  of  the  dome  date  from 
Saladin's  restoration,  and  are  said  to  have  been  brought  from  Con- 
stantinople. To  the  same  period  belongs  the  prayer-niche  on  the 
S.  side,  flanked  with  its  small  and  graceful  marble  columns.  The 
coloured  band  which  runs  round  the  wall  of  this  part  of  the  mosque, 
about  G  ft.  from  the  ground,  consists  of  foliage,  in  Arabian  style. 
The  Cuflc  inscriptions  are  texts  from  the  Koran.  —  The  Dome  is 
constructed  of  wood,  and  covered  with  lead  on  the  outside  ;  within, 
it  is  decorated  in  the  same  style  as  the  dome  of  the  Sakhra.  Au  in- 
scription records  the  name  of  the  Mameluke  sultan  Mohammed  ibu 
Kilaun  as  the  restorer  of  these  decorations  in  728  ( 1327).  —  On  the 
W.  the  transept  is  adjoined  by  the  so-called  '  While  Mosque1  (PI.  0  I, 
designed  for  the  use  of  women.  This  consists  of  along  double  colon- 
nade with  pointed  vaulting,  and  was  erected  by  the  Knights  Templar, 
who  resided  here.  The  Templars  called  the  Aksa  the  Porticus,  Pa- 
latiurn,  or  Tempium  Salomonis. 

Among  the  chief  features  of  the  interior  are  the  following.  In  the 
(loor  of  the  nave,  not  far  from  the  entrance,  is  the  Tomb  of  the  Sms  of 
Aaron  (PI.  5),  covered  with  mats.  The  Stained  Glass  Windows  dat<  like 
those  Of  the  Dome  of  the  Rock  from  the  16th  cent.,  but  are  not  so  fine. 
The  wretched  paintings  on  the  large  arch  of  the  transept  were  executed 
in  the  19th  century.  —  Adjoining  the  prayer-niche  we  observe  a  Pulpit 
(PI.  2)  beautifully  carved  in  wood  and  inlaid  with  ivory  and  moth;r-of- 
pearl.  It  was  executed  in  564  (1168)  by  an  artist,  of  Aleppo  by  order  of 
Nureddin.  On  the  stone  behind  this  pulpit  is  shown  the  Footprint  of  Christ 
(PI.  3),  which  appears  to  have  been  seen  by  Antonio  of  Piacenza,  me  of 
the  earliest  pilgrims.  On  each  side  of  the  pulpit  we  observe  a  pur  of 
columns  close  together  (PI.  7  and  7a),  now  connected  by  iron  screen).  Of 
these,  a  legend,  also  occurring  elsewhere,  asserts  that  no  one  can  enter 
heaven  if  he  cannot,  pass  between  them.  —  The  graves  of  the  mur&rers 
of  St.  Thomas  of  Canterbury  (Thomas  Becket),  dating  from  the  original 
Christian  church  (p.  58),  are  still  pointed  out  near  the  main  entrance. 

The  Mosque  of  'Omar  is  said  to  have  stood  on  the  site  of  th<  S.E. 
annex  (PI.  4).  The  so-called  Mosque  of  the  40  Witnesses  (PI.  10)  is  th(  apse 
of  an  earlier  Christian  church.  To  the  N.  of  this  (PI.  11)  is  the  place 
where  Zacharias  is  said  to  have  been  slain  (p.  81).  There  is  a  hamsouie 
rose-window  here  dating  from  the  times  of  the  Crusaders. 


tesh-Sherlf. 


JERUSALEM. 


4.  Route.    61 


The  S.  side  of  the  Hararn  rests  almost  entirely  upon  massive 
vauilted  Substructions,  dating  in  their  original  form  from  a  very 
early  period,  though  the  present  walls  belong  to  later  restorations. 
A  flight  of  18  steps,  to  the  E.  of  the  entrance  of  the  Aksa  mosque, 
descends  to  the  central  portion  of  these  substructions.  The  vaults 
are  borne  by  rectangular  piers;  the  middle  row  of  these  stands  under 
the  E.  side  of  the  nave  of  the  mosque,  and  so  may  possibly  have 
been  erected  when  the  mosque  was  enlarged  towards  the  E.  Towards 
the  S.  end  is  a  chamber  at  a  somewhat  lower  level,  the  four  flat 
aroIh.es  of  which  rest  in  the  centre  against  a  short  and  thick  mon- 
olithic column,  with  a  Byzantine  capital.  This  formed  the  vestibule 
of  the  old  Double  Gate  to  the  S.,  which  is  constructed  of  large  blocks 
of  s  tone  belonging  to  the  Jewish  period,  and  is  now  walled  up.  The 
lintels  of  the  gate  are  still  in  position,  but  the  E.  one  is  broken  and 
supported  by  columns  added  at  a  later  period.  The  columns  are 
covered  with  whitewash,  but  their  beautiful  ornamentation  is  still 
visible  on  the  outside.  This  double  gate  is  supposed  to  be  the 
'Huldah  PortaV  of  the  Talmud,  and  we  may  therefore  assume  that 
Christ  frequently  entered  the  Temple  from  this  point,  particularly 
on  the  occasion  of  solemn  processions,  which  advanced  from  the 
Fountain  Gate  of  the  Pool  of  Siloam  (p.  83)  to  the  doors  of  the 
Temple.  It  is  now  a  Muslim  place  of  prayer,  and  is  therefore  covered 
with  straw  matting. 

The  vaults  under  the  S.W.  corner  of  the  Haram  are  inaccessible, 
but  we  may  proceed  through  a  children's  school  to  Barclay's  Gate 
(p.  65). 

The  entrance  to  the  South  Eastern  Substructions  is  in  the  S.E. 
corner  of  the  Haram  area.  A  staircase  descends  to  a  small  Muslim 
Oratory,  where  a  horizontal  niche,  surmounted  by  a  a  dome  borne 
by  4  small  columns,  is  pointed  out  as  the  'Cradle  of  Christ'.  The 
mediaeval  tradition  that  this  was  the  dwelling  of  the  aged  Simeon, 
and  that  the  Virgin  spent  a  few  days  here  after  the  Presentation  in 
the  Temple,  seems  to  rest  on  the  fact  that  in  ancient  days  the  He- 
brow  women  used  to  resort  to  this  building  to  await  their  confine- 
ment, a  custom  also  commemorated  in  the  'Basilika  Theotokos'  (of 
the  Mother  of  God),  which  stood  here  in  pre-Islamic  times. 

From  this  point  we  descend  into  the  spacious  substructions, 
known  as  'Solomon  s  Stables\  which  were  probably  erected  in  the 
Arabian  period  on  the  site  of  some  earlier  substructions.  The  drafted 
stones  of  the  piers  are  ancient.  Many  Jews  sought  refuge  in  these 
substructions  on  the  capture  of  Jerusalem  by  the  Romans.  At  the 
time  of  the  Crusades  they  served  as  stables  for  the  horses  of  the 
Prankish  kings  and  the  Templars,  and  on  the  angles  of  the  piers 
may  be  seen  the  holes  to  which  the  horses  were  tethered.  There  are 
in  all  13  galleries,  the  vaulting  of  which  is  borne  by  88  piers  arranged 
in  12  parallel  rows.  They  extend  91  yds.  from  E.  to  W.  and  66  yds. 
from  8.  to  N.    Towards  the  N.  they  extend  beyond  the  limits  of  the 


62    Route  4. 


JERUSALEM. 


e.  The  Haraim 


Aksa  mosque,  but  this  part  of  them  has  not  yet  been  carefully  in- 
vestigated. In  the  sixth  gallery,  counting  from  the  E.,  there  is  a 
small  closed  door  in  the  S.  wall  called  the  'Single  Gate1,  where  the 
'Cradle  of  David'  used  to  he  pointed  out.  A  door  at  the  end  of  the 
13th  gallery  opens  to  the  W.  upon  another  triple  series  of  sub- 
structions, 53  ft.  in  width  by  23  ft.  in  height.  The  series  terminates 
on  the  S.  by  a  Triple  Gate  (blocked  up),  resembling  the  above- 
mentioned  double  gate.  The  foundations  only  are  preserved  (exterior, 
see  p.  07);  the  arches  are  almost  elliptical  in  shape.  Fragments  of 
columns  are  built  into  the  walls  here,  and  an  entire  column  is  visible 
about  20  yds.  from  the  gate.  Farther  on,  about  132  yds.  from  the 
S.  wall,  the  style  in  which  the  gallery  is  built,  especially  in  the 
upper  parts,  becomes  more  modern. 

Under  both  the  'Triple  Gate  and  the  Single  Gate  there  are  various 
passages  and  water-courses  hewn  in  the  rock,  but  these  have  not  yet  lieon 
efAciently  investigated. 

We  now  again  ascend  to  the  plateau  of  the  Haram,  and  proceed 
to  investigate  the  Enclosing  Wall  (interior  side).  The  upper  parts 
of  the  East  Wall  are  entirely  modern.  The  top,  which  is  reached  by 
a  flight  of  steps,  affords  an  admirable  view  of  the  valley  of  the  Kidron 
(Valley  of  Jehoshaphat)  with  its  tombs  immediately  below,  and  of 
the  Mt.  of  Olives.  We  find  here  the  stump  of  a  column  built  in 
horizontally  and  protruding  beyond  the  wall  on  both  sides.  A  small 
building  (a  place  of  prayer)  has  been  erected  over  the  inner  end. 

A  Mohammedan  tradition,  also  accepted  by  the  .Tews,  asserts  that  all 
men  will  assemble  at  the  Last  Judgment  in  the  valley  of  .lehoshaphat 
(p.  80),  when  the  hills  on  both  sides  will  recede.  From  this  prostrate 
column  a  thin  wire-rope  will  then  be  stretched  to  the  opposite  Mt.  of  Olives. 
Christ  will  sit  on  the  wall,  and  Mohammed  on  the  mount,  as  judges.  All  men 
must  pass  over  the  intervening  space  on  the  rope.  The  righteous,  preserved 
by  their  angels  from  falling,  will  cross  with  lightning  speed,  while  the 
wicked  will  be  precipitated  into  the  abyss  of  hell.  The  idea  of  a  bridge 
of  this  kind  occurs  in  the  ancient  Persian  religion. 

A  little  farther  on  we  reach  the  Golden  Gate,  which  the  Arabs 
call  Bab  ed-Dahinyeh,  the  N.  arch  being  known  as  the  Bab  et-Tobeh, 
or  gate  of  repentance,  and  the  S.  arch  the  Bab  er-Eahmeh,  or  gate 
of  mercy.  It  resembles  the  double  gate  mentioned  at  p.  61,  and 
probably  stood  on  the  site  of  the  'Shushan'  gate  of  the  Herodian 
Temple.  The  name  rests  upon  a  misunderstanding.  The 'Beautiful 
Gate'  (96pa  ibpala),  mentioned  in  the  Acts  of  the  Apostles  (iii.  2), 
mistranslated  in  Latin  as  the  'porta  aurea',  was  certainly  in  the  inner 
fore-court  of  the  Temple.  Anton i  us  Martyr  still  distinguishes  be- 
tween the  'portes  pre'cieuses'  and  the  Golden  Gate.  The  gate  In  its 
present  form  dates  from  the  7th  century  after  Christ.  In  810  the 
Arabs  built  it  up  entirely  with  the  exception  of  one  small  opening. 
The  monolithic  door-posts  to  theE.,  said  to  have  been  presented  by 
the  Queen  of  Sheba  to  Solomon,  have  been  converted  into  pillars, 
which  now  rise  6  ft.  above  the  top  of  the  wall  (on  the  outside;  see 
p.  67).  The  arched  vaulting  is  borne  by  a  large  central  pillar,  with 
pilasters  on  each  side  of  it  (not  visible  from  without).    The  whole 


esh-Sherlf. 


JERUSALEM. 


4.  Route.     63 


structure  was  restored  in  1892.   The  roof  affords  an  excellent  survey 
of  the  whole  of  the  Temple  plateau. 

The  interior  consists  of  a  large  arcade  with  six  flat  vaults,  which  rest 
on  two  columns  in  the  middle.  The  elaborate  architectonic  decoration 
belongs  to  a  late  Byzantine  period.  —  In  629  Heraclius  entered  the  Temple 
by  this  gate.  At  the  time  of  the  Crusades  the  gate  used  to  be  opened  for 
dfew  hours  on  Palm  Sunday  and  on  the  festival  of  the  Raising  of  the 
Cross.  On  Palm  Sunday  the  great  procession  with  palm-branches  entered 
by  this  gate  from  the  Mt.  of  Olives.  The  patriarch  rode  on  an  ass,  while 
the  people  spread  their  gai-ments  in  the  way,  as  had  been  done  on  the 
entry  of  Christ.  Among  the  Muslims  there  still  exists  a  tradition  that  on 
a  Friday  some  Christian  conqueror  will  enter  by  this  gate.  According  to 
Ezekiel  (xliv.  1,  2),  the  gate  on  the  E.  side  of  the  Temple  precincts  was 
kept  closed  from  a  very  early  period. 

The  modern  mosque  to  the  N.  of  the  Golden  Gate  is  known  as 
the  Throne  of  Solomon,  from  the  legend  that  Solomon  was  found 
dead  here.  In  order  to  conceal  his  death  from  the  demons,  he  sup- 
ported himself  on  his  seat  with  his  staff,  and  it  was  not  till  the 
worms  had  gnawed  the  staff  through  and  caused  the  body  to  fall  that 
the  demons  became  aware  that  they  were  released  from  the  king's 
authority.  Here  we  observe  many  shreds  of  rags  suspended  from 
the  window-gratings  by  pilgrims  (comp.  p.  lxxiv).  The  subterranean 
chambers  under  the  mosque  and  farther  on  (inaccessible)  appear  to 
have  been  built  in  Herodian  times  to  make  the  surface  level.  —  At 
the  N.E.  corner  of  the  Haram  are  preserved  the  ruins  of  a  massive 
ancient  tower.  The  gate  here  is  called  the  Bab  el-Asbtit,  or  gate  of 
the  tribes. 

We  now  skirt  the  North  Wall.  From  the  windows  under  the 
arcades,  we  see,  far  below  us,  the  Birket  Isra'in  (p.  67).  To  the  left 
are  several  places  of  prayer.  We  soon  reach  the  next  gate  on  the 
right,  called  the  Bab  Hitta,  ox  Bab  Hotta,  following  which  is  the  Bab 
el-'Atem,  or  gate  of  darkness,  also  named  Sherif  el-Anbid  (honour  of 
the  prophets),  or  Gate  of  Dewaddr.  This,  perhaps,  answers  to  the 
Todi  gate  of  the  Talmud.  To  the  left  is  a  fountain  fed  by  Solomon's 
pools;  near  it  to  the  W.  are  two  small  mosques,  the  W.  one  of  which 
is  cdled  Kubbet  Shekif  es-Sakhra,  from  the  piece  of  rock  which,  it  is 
said,  Nebuchadnezzar  broke  off  from  the  Sakhra  and  the  Jews  brought 
back  again.  At  the  N.W.  angle  of  the  Temple  area  the  ground  con- 
sists of  rock,  in  which  has  been  formed  a  perpendicular  cutting 
23  it.  in  depth,  and  above  this  rises  the  wall.  The  foundations  of 
this  wall  appear  to  be  ancient,  and  they  may  possibly  have  belonged 
to  the  fortress  of  Antonia  (p.  26).  There  are  now  barracks  here 
(p.  49).  At  the  N.W.  corner  rises  the  highest  minaret  of  the  Haram. 

Having  examined  the  whole  of  the  interior  of  these  spacious 
precincts,  we  now  proceed  to  take  a  walk  round  the  Outside  of  the 
Wall,  which  will  enable  us  better  to  realize  the  character  of  the  sub- 
structions. The  different  periods  of  building  are  easily  distinguish- 
able. At  a  depth  of  35-55  ft.  below  the  present  surface,  and  at  a 
still  greater  depth,  are  layers  of  blocks  with  rough  unhewn  exterior, 


64    Route  4. 


JERUSALEM. 


e.  The  Har am 


fitted  to  each  other  without  the  aid  of  mortar  (comp.  p.  xciv).  These, 
like  the  courses  of  drafted  Mocks  with  smooth  exterior,  probably 
belong  to  the  Herodian  period.  The  courses  of  smoothly  hewn  but 
undrafted  blocks  may  be  ascribed  to  the  time  of  Justinian.  The 
ordinary  masonry  of  irregularly  shaped  stones  is  modern.  The' wall 
is  not  perpendicular,  but  batters  from  the  base,  each  course  lying  a 
little  within  that  below  it.  On  the  N.W.  side  of  the  temple  area 
(but  difficult  of  access)  the  exterior  of  the  wall  shows  remains  of 
buttresses  (like  the  temple  wall  in  Hebron,  p.  115). 

We  leave  the  Ilaram  by  the  second  gate  on  the  N.W.  side  (B&b 
en-Ndzir;  PI.  G,  4),  and  follow  the  lane  in  a  straight  direction  which 
leads  between  the  Old  Serai  (at  present  a  state-prison,  PI.  G,  4),  on 
the  right,  and  the  Cavalry  Barracks  (PI.  0,  4),  on  the  left,  to  the 
transverse  street  called  El-Wad  (PI.  F,  Ci,  4,  5),  which  comes  from 
the  Damascus  Gate.  At  the  corner  to  the  right  is  a  handsome  fountain. 
We  turn  to  the  S.  into  this  cross-street,  passing  on  the  right  the  pre- 
sent Serdi  (PI.  F,  4),  on  the  site  of  the  former  Hospital  of  St.  Helena, 
and  on  the  left  a  lane  which  leads  to  the  Ilaram.  We  now  arrive  at 
the  covered-in  Sale  el-KuUdnhi{VLG/S)  or  cotton-merchants'  bazaar, 
now  deserted. 

About  halfway  through  the  bazaar  to  the  N.  is  the.  entrance  to  the 
Hammam  esb.-Sb.ifa  (PI.  G,  5),  an  old  and  still  used  healing-bath,  which 
has  been  supposed  to  be  the  Pool  of  lielhesda  (comp.  p.  67).  A  stair  as- 
cends 34  ft.  to  the  mouth  of  the  cistern,  over  which  stands  a  small  tower. 
The  shaft  is  here  about  100  ft.  in  depth  (i.e.  about  6G  ft.  below  the  surface 
of  the  earth).  The  basin  is  almost  entirely  enclosed  by  masonry;  at  the 
S.  end  of  its  W.  wall  runs  a  channel  built  of  masonry,  100  ft.  long,  3'/'^  ft. 
high,  and  3  ft.  in  width,  tlrst  to  the  S.,  then  to  the  8.W.  The  water  is 
bad,  being  rain-water  which  has  percolated  through  impure  earth. 

The  El-Wad  street  ends  on  the  S.  at  the  David  Stkiset  (Tank 
Bab  es-Silseleh;  PI.  F,  G,  5;  comp.  p.  33),  which  runs  from  W.  to  E. 
on  a  kind  of  embankment  formed  of  subterranean  arches:  In  Jewish 
times  a  street  led  over  the  deep  valley  here  (the  Tyropoeon,  p.  30) 
to  the  upper  city;  one  of  the  large  arches  on  which  it  rests  is  n.  mod 
'  Wilson's  Arch'1  after  the  director  of  the  English  survey.  This  well- 
preserved  arch  is  22  ft.  in  height  and  has  a  span  of  49ft.  Below  it  is 
the  Burdk  Fool,  named  after  the  winged  steed  of  Mohammed,  v  blob. 
the  prophet  is  said  to  have  tied  up  here.  Whilst  making  excavations 
under  the  S.  end  of  Wilson's  Arch,  Sir  Charles  Warren  discovered  a 
water-course  at  a  depth  of  44ft.  ( a  proof  that  water  still  trickles  tin  nigh 
what  was  formerly  a  valley),  and  at  length,  at  a  depth  of  more  than 
49  ft.,  he  found  the  wall  of  the  Temple  built  into  the  rock.  We 
follow  the  David  Street  to  the  E.  towards  the  Ilaram.  To  the  left 
is  a  handsome  fountain;  to  the  right  is  the  so-called  'Mehkenuh'  or 
House  of  Judgment  [  PI.  G,  5),  a  cruciform  arcade  with  pointed  vault- 
ing, which  was  built  in  1483.  At  the  S.  end  is  a  prayer-recess,  and 
in  the  centre  is  a  fountain,  fed  by  the  water-conduit  of  Bethlehem. 
—  The  David  Street  ends  at  the  Bdb  es-Silseleh,  or  Gate  of  the  Chain 
(PI.  G,  5;  p.  52);  near  it  are  a  basin  which  resembles  a  font,  and 


■  csh-Sherif. 


JERUSALEM. 


4.  Route.    65 


a  niew  well  of  the  conduit  (restored  in  1901),  which  runs  under  the 
Jin t to  (  p.  22). 

We  now  return  along  the  David  St.  towards  the  W.,  taking  the 
first  narrow  Transverse  Lane  leading  to  the  left(S.)  between  two 
handsome  old  houses.  That  on  the  Tight,  with  the  stalactite  portal, 
was  a  boys'  school  at  the  period  of  the  Crusades;  that  to  the  left, 
called  El-Ajemhjeh,  was  a  girls'  school,  but  has  been  used  as  a 
Inn  s'  school  since  the  time  of  Saladin.  Descending  this  lane  for 
4  nnin.  and  keeping  to  the  left,  we  reach  the  *Wailing  Place  of  the 
Jews  (Muraille  des  Lamentations,  Hotel  ma' arbei;  PI.  G,  5),  situated 
beyond  the  miserable  dwellings  of  the  Moghrebins  (Muslims  from 
tin'  N.W.  of  Africa).  The  celebrated  wall  which  bears  this  name  is 
52  yds.  in  length  and  59  ft.  in  height.  The  nine  lowest  courses  of 
stonie  consist  of  huge  blocks,  only  some  of  which,  however,  are  drafted. 
Ab'ove  these  are  fifteen  courses  of  smaller  stones.  It  is  probable 
that  the  Jews  as  early  as  the  middle  ages  were  in  tin;  habit  of  re- 
pairing hither  to  bewail  the  downfall  of  Jerusalem.  This  spot 
should  be  visited  repeatedly,  especially  on  a  Friday  after  4  p.m., 
or  on  Jewish  festivals,  when  a  touching  scene  is  presented  by  the 
figures  leaning  against  the  weather-beaten  wall,  kissing  the  stones, 
and  weeping.  The  men  often  sit  here  for  hours,  reading  their  well- 
thumbed  Hebrew  prayer-books.  The  Spanish  Jews,  whose  appearance 
and  bearing  are  often  refined  and  independent,  present  a  pleasing 
contrast  to  their  squalid  brethren  of  Poland. 

On  Friday,  towards  evening,  the  following  litany  is  chanted:  — 

Leader:  For  the  palace  thai  lies  desolate:  —  Response:  We  sit  in  soli- 
tude and  mount,. 

L.  For  the  palace  that  is  destroyed:  —  R.    We  sit.  etc. 

L.  For  the  walls  that  are  overthrown: — R.    We  sit,  etc. 

L.  For  our  majesty  that  is  departed:  —  R.    We  sit,  etc. 

L.  For  our  great  men  who  lie  dead: — R.    We  sit,  etc. 

L.  For  the  precious  stones  that  are  burned: — R.   We  sit,  etc. 

L.  For  the  priests  who  have  stumbled:  —  R.    We  sit,  etc. 

L.  For  our  kings  who  have  despised  Him:  —  R.   We  sit,  etc. 

Another  antiiiliony  is  as  follows:  — 

Leader:  We  pray  Thee,  have  mercy  on  Zion!  —  Response:  Gather  the 
children  of  Jerusalem. 

L.  Haste,  haste,  Redeemer  of  Zion!  —  It.  Speak  to  the  heart  of  Jerusalem.. 

Ii.  May  beauty  and  majesty  surround  Zion!  —  II.  Ah!  turn  Thyself  merci- 
fully to  Jerusalem. 

L.  May  the  kingdom  soon  return  to  Zion!  —  R.  Comfort  those  who  mourn 
over  Jerusalem. 

L.  May  peace  and  joy  abide  with  Zion!  —  II.  And  the  branch  (of  Jesse) 
spring  up  at  Jerusalem. 

To  the  S.  of  the  Place  of  Wailing  is  an  ancient  gate,  called  the 
Gate  of  the  Prophet  or  (after  the  discoverer)  Barclay's  Gate.  The 
fanaticism  of  the  Moghrebins  prevents  travellers  from  seeing  this 
unless  accompanied  by  a  guide  who  knows  the  people.  (For  the 
approach  from  the  interior  of  the  Haram,  see  p.  61.)  The  upper  part 
of  it  consists  of  a  huge,  carefully  hewn  block,  6'/2  ft-  thick  and  over 
19  ft.  long,  now  situated  10  ft.  above  the  present  level  of  the  ground. 
The  threshold  lies  48  ft.  below  the  present  surface,  and  a  path  cut 


Route  4, 


JERUSALEM. 


e.   The  ILiram 


%1 


I 


■/ 


in  steps  has  been  discovered  in  the  courso 
of  excavations. 

In  the  S.  part  of  the  Moghrebin  quarter 
is  a  large  open  space  (PI.  G,  6),  bounded  on 
the  E.  by  the  Temple  wall,  here  about  58  ft. 
high.  It  is  composed  of  gigantic  blocks,  ono 
of  which,  near  the  S.W.  corner,  is  26  ft.  long 
and  2!/2ft.  high,  and  that  at  the  corner  27^2  ft. 
long.  It  is  sometimes  difficult  to  distinguish 
the  joints  from  clefts  caused  by  disintegra- 
tion. The  whole  S.W.  corner  was  built  dur- 
ing the  llerodian  period. 

About  13  yds.  to  the  N.  of  the  corner,  we 
come  upon  the  remains  of  a  huge  arch,  called 
Robinson  s  Arch  after  its  discoverer.  The  arch  is 
5U  ft.  in  width ;  it  contains  stones  of  19  and  26  ft. 
in  length,  and  about  three  different  courses  are 
distinguishable.  At  a  distance  of  13'/i>  yds.  to 
the  W.  Warren  found  the  corresponding  pier  of 
the  arch;  and  about  42  ft.  below  the  present  sur- 
face there  is  a  pavement  upon  which  lie  the 
vault-stones  of  Robinson's  arch.  This  pavement 
further  rests  upon  a  layer  of  rubbish  23  ft.  in 
depth,  containing  the  vaulting-stones  of  a  still 
earlier  arch.  The  general  opinion  is  that  Robin- 
son's Arch  is  the  beginning  of  a  viaduct,  mention- 
ed by  Josephus  (Bell.  Jud.  vi.  6,  2,  etc.)  which 
led  from  the  Temple  over  the  Tyropceon  to  the 
Xystus  (comp.  p.  64),  but  excavations  on  the  W. 
side  have  not  yet  brought  to  light  a  correspond- 
ing part  of  the  bridge  there.  Some  authorities 
(ZDPV.  xv.  234  et  seq.)  therefore  believe  that 
Robinson's  Arch  is  the  'staircase  gate'  mentioned 
by  Josephus  (Ant.  xv.  11,  5)  as  the  entrance  to 
the  'royal  portico'. 

From  this  point  we  see  only  the  W.  part 
of  the  South  Wall  of  the  Haram,  extending 
as  far  as  the  'Double  Gate'  (see  p.  61).  We 
pass  through  the  Dung  Gate  or  Moghrebins' 
(jate{Bab  el-Muyharibeh ;  PI.  G,  7),  and  turn 
to  theE.,  keeping  as  close  as  possible  to  the 
wall.  The  rock  here  rapidly  falls  from  the 
S.W.  corner  of  the  area  towards  the  E.  from 
a  depth  of  59  ft.  to  87  ft.,  and  then  rises 
again  towards  the  E.  In  other  words,  the 
Tyropceon  valley  (p.  30)  runs  under  the  S.W. 
angle  of  the  Temple  plateau,  so  that  the 
S.W.  corner  of  the  Herodian  Temple  stood 
not  on  the  Temple  hill  itself,  but  on  the 
opposite  slope.  At  the  bottom  of  this  de- 
pression, at  a  depth  of  23  ft.  below  the  stone 
pavement,  Warren  discovered  a  subterranean 
canal,  probably  of  a  late-llotnan  period.    At 


esh-Shertf. 


JERUSALEM. 


4.  Route. 


67 


a  depth  of  39  ft.  there  is  another  pavement,  of  earlier  date.  A  wall 
still  more  deeply  imbedded  in  the  earth  consists  of  large  stones  with 
rough  surfaces.  The  rock  ascends  to  the  Triple  Gate  (p.  62),  where 
it  lies  but  a  few  feet  below  the  present  surface.  Thence  to  the  S.E. 
corner  the  wall  sinks  again  for  a  depth  of  100  ft.,  while  the  present 
surface  of  the  ground  descends  only  23  ft.  The  gigantic  blocks  above 
the  surface  of  the  ground  in  this  S.E.  angle  attract  our  attention.  Some 
are  16-23  ft.  in  length  and  3  ft.  in  height.  The  wall  at  the  S.E.  corner 
is  altogether  156  ft.  in  height,  of  which  only  TT^ft.  are  now  above 
ground.  —  In  the  course  of  his  excavations  Warren  discovered  a 
second  wall  at  a  great  depth,  running  from  the  S.E.  corner  towards  the 
S.W.,  and  surrounding  Ophel,  the  quarter  to  the  S.E.  of  the  Haram. 

On  the  E.  Side  of  the  wall  of  the  Haram  lies  much  rubbish,  and 
the  rock  once  dipped  much  more  rapidly  to  the  Kidron  valley  (comp. 
p.  30)  than  the  present  surface  of  the  ground  does.  The  Golden  Gate 
(p.  62)  stands  with  its  outside  upon  the  wall,  but  with  its  inside 
apparently  upon  rock.  The  different  periods  of  building  are  easily 
distinguishable.  The  wall,  along  which  are  placed  numerous  Muslim 
tombstones,  here  extends  to  a  depth  of  29-39  ft.  below  the  surface. 
Outside  of  the  Haram  wall  "Warren  discovered  a  second  wall,  possibly 
an  ancient  city-wall,  buried  in  the  debris.  The  whole  of  the  N.E. 
con  or  of  the  Temple  plateau,  both  within  and  without  the  enclosing 
wal.,  is  filled  with  immense  deposits  of  de'bris,  some  of  which  was 
probably  the  earth  removed  in  levelling  the  N.W.  corner. 

Under  the  North  Part  of  the  Haram  there  was  originally  a 
small  valley  running  from  N.W.  to  S.E. ;  the  N.E.  corner  of  the 
wal  reaches  to  a  depth  of  118  ft.  below  the  present  level  of  the 
grouid.  In  the  valley  lay  the  Birket  Isra'm  ( 'pool  of  Israel';  PI.  H,  3), 
foraerly  regarded  as  the  Pool  of  Bethesda  (comp.  p.  49).  Early  pil- 
grims call  it  the  'Sheep  Pool'  (Piscina  Probatica),  as  it  was  errone- 
ously supposed  that  the  'Sheep  Gate'  (St.  John  v.  2)  stood  on  the 
site  of  the  present  gate  of  St.  Stephen.  The  pool,  which  now  rarely 
contains  water,  is  120  yds.  long  and  41  yds.  wide.  It  lies  69  ft. 
below  the  level  of  the  Temple  plateau,  and  its  bottom  is  now  covered 
witl  rubbish  to  a  depth  of  20  ft.  It  was  fed  from  the  W.,  and  could 
be  regulated  and  emptied  by  a  channel  in  a  tower  at  the  S.E.  corner. 
Neaj  the  S.  W.  end  of  the  pool  Warren  succeeded  in  descending  into 
a  cifte.rn,  where  he  found  a  double  set  of  vaulted  substructions,  one 
ovei  the  other,  and  to  the  N.  of  these  an  apartment  with  an  opening 
in  tie  N.  side  of  the  wall  of  the  Haram. 

"Ve  return  to  the  town  through  the  Oate  of  St.  Stephen  (p.  48). 

f.  Western  and  Southern  Suburbs. 
7wo  important  roads  start  from  the  space  in  front  of  the  Jaffa 
Gate  (PI.  D,  6,  6;  p.  33),  which  always  presents  an  animated  scene: 
that  o  the  S.  leads  past  the  railway-station  to  Bethlehem  and  Hebron, 
that  r,o  the  N.W.  to  Jaffa. 


68    Route  J. 


JERUSALEM. 


f.  Western  and 


The  Jaffa  Road  (PI.  A-D,  2-5),  which  is  the  favourite  promenade 
of  the  natives  on  Friday  and  Sunday,  runs  through  the  Jaffa  Sub  ubb, 
which  is  the  headquarters  of  the  EuropeaB  population,  containing 
nearly  all  the  consulates,  several  Christian  churches,  convents,  and 
hospitals,  the  Russian  Colony,  and  several  Jewish  settlements.  Near 
the  Gate  lie  the  Turkish  post-office  (p.  19),  the  branch-office  of  the 
Cre'dit  Lyonnais  (these  two  on  the  right),  the  branch-office  of  the 
Banque  Ottomane  (on  the  left),  and  the  German  post-office.  Then 
come  the  French  post-office  and,  somewhat  farther  out,  the  hotels 
and  pensions  mentioned  at  p.  19. 

The  first  road  (PI.  C,  5)  diverging  to  the  left  from  the  Jaffa  Road  leads 
to  the  Mamilla  Pool  (Birket  Mamilla;  PI.  A,  4,  51,  which  lies  at  the  begin- 
ning of  the  valley  of  Hinnom,  in  the  middle  of  a  Muslim  burial-ground. 
It.  is  97  yds.  long  from  E.  to  W.,  and  64  yds.  wide  from  N.  to  S.,  and 
19  ft.  in  depth.  It  is  partly  hewn  in  the  rock,  but  the  sides  are  also  lined 
with  masonry.  It  is  empty  except  in  winter,  when  it  is  filled  with  rain- 
water, which  is  discharged  into  the  Patriarch's  Pool  (p.  34).  The  name  has 
never  been  satisfactorily  explained,  and  its  identification  with  the  'upper 
poor  of  the  Old  Testament  or  with  the  'Serpent's  Poor  of  Josephus,  is 
very  problematical. 

At  the  Lloyd  Hotel  (PI.  b ;  C,  4)  a  street  diverges  to  the  right, 
which  leads  past  the  convent  of  the  Soeurs  Reparatrices,  the  St.  Louis 
Hospital,  the  New  Gate  (p.  34),  and  the  pilgrims'  hospice  of  Notre 
Dame  de  France  (with  an  Augustine  church;  PI.  C,  D,  3,  4),  then 
skirts  the  N.  city-wall  and  reaches  the  Damascus  Gate  (p.  85). 

Farther  on  the  Jaffa  Road  passes  the  Public  Garden  (PI.  B,  C,  3, 4). 
A  few  paces  down  a  small  side-road  to  the  right  bring  us  to  the  S. 
entrance  of  the  large  Russian  Buildings  (PI.  A-C,  2,  3).  Inside  the 
enclosing  wall  to  the  left  are  the  hospital,  with  its  dispensary,  and 
the  mission-house,  with  the  dwellings  of  the  priests  and  rooms  for 
wealthier  pilgrims.  To  the  N.  is  the  Russian  Consulate  (PI.  12;  C,  3). 
In  the  centre,  amid  various  large  hospices  for  men  and  women,  stands 
the  handsome  Cathedral  (PL  B,  3),  the  interior  of  which  is  richly 
decorated.  Divine  service  generally  takes  place  about  5  p.m.  (best 
viewed  from  the  gallery;  good  vocal  music).  In  the  open  space  in 
front  of  the  church  lies  a  gigantic  column  (40  ft.  by  5  ft.),  cut  out 
of  the  solid  rock  but,  owing  to  a  fracture,  never  completely  severed 
from  its  bed.  —  Outside  the  Russian  enclosure,  opposite  its  N.  gate, 
stands  the  Hospice  of  the  Russian  Palestine  Society. 

The  Jaffa  Road  now  leads  through  several  Jewish  Settlements 
containing  nothing  noteworthy.  A  little  to  the  S.  of  the  road  are 
the  handsome  German  Roman  Catholic  Hospice  and  the  tasteful 
Talilha  Curni  (Mark  v.  41:  'Damsel,  I  say  unto  thee,  Arise  1'),  an 
orphanage  for  Arab  girls  founded  by  the  Kaiserswerth  deaconesses. 
On  an  eminence  to  the  S.  is  St.  Peter's  Handicraft  School  for  Arab 
boys.  Farther  out,  to  the  N.,  is  Schneller's  Syrian  Orphanage  (p.  21), 
where  Arab  boys  are  trained  and  brought  up  by  German  teachers. 

The  street  skirting  the  E.  side  of  the  Russian  enclosure  leads  to 
the  Olivet  House  Pension  (p.  19),  the  Arab-Protestant  Church  of 


Southern  Suburbs. 


JERUSALEM. 


4.  Route.     09 


St.  Paul  (PI.  C,  1,  2),  and  other  buildings  of  the  English  Mission 
(p.  21).  Farther  on  it  passes  the  Evelina  de  Rothschild  school.  To 
the  right  is  a  carriage- road,  leading  past  the  Hill  of  Ashes  to  the 
residence  of  the  English  bishop  (p.  21).  In  a  straight  direction  the 
road  leads  through  the  Jewish  colony  of  Mea  Sharim.  —  On  the 
cross-road  loading  from  St.  Paul's  Church  to  the  Jaffa  Road  aTe  the 
German  Rectory  and  School  (PI.  B,  1),  the  Rothschild  Hospital,  the 
girls'  school  of  the  French  Sisters  of  St.  Joseph,  the  German  Hospital 
(opposite  the  last),  the  German  Consulate  (farther  on,  to  the  left), 
and  the  Hospital  of  the  English  Mission  to  the  Jews  (right). 


The  road  to  Bethlehem  and  Hebron  (p.  99)  runs  to  the  S.  from 
the  Jaffa  Gate,  and  descends  into  the  Valley  of  Hinnom  (PI.  C,  D,  9; 
p.  84).  [At  the  S.W.  comer  of  the  Citadel  (p.  33)  the  road  to  the 
Zion  Suburb  diverges  to  the  left  (p.  70).]  The  middle  part  of  the 
Valley  of  Hinnom  lies  N.  and  S.  and  was  used  probably  in  an  early 
Jewish  period  for  the  construction  of  an  imposing  reservoir,  which 
now,  however,  has  been  partly  filled  in.  The  present  name  of  this 
poo],  Birket  es-Sultan  (PI.  C,  D,  8),  refers  to  Soliman,  who  restored 
the  basin  in  the  middle  of  the  16th  century.  The  pool  is  185  yds. 
long  and  73  yds.  broad,  and  is  enclosed  on  the  N.  and  S.  by  strong 
walls,  between  which  the  ground  was  excavated  till  it  reached  the 
rock  at  a  depth  of  36-42  ft.  The  rubbish  in  the  W.  part  of  the  pool 
is  now  covered  with  gardens.  A  cattle-market  is  held  here  on  Friday. 

The  road  skirts  the  E.  side  of  the  Pool  of  the  Sultan  and  crosses 
the  Valley  of  Hinnom  by  the  embankment  to  the  S.  The  valley 
turns  here  to  the  S.E.  Farther  on,  the  road  passes  the  Jewish  Colony 
founded  by  Monteflore,  with  its  large  hospice  (PI.  0, 9),  and  then  forks. 
The  E.  (left)  branch,  passing  the  Ophthalmic  Hospital  of  the  English 
Knights  of  St.  John  (p.  21),  is  the  road  to  the  Railway  Station  (p.  19) 
and  to  Bethlehem  described  at  p.  99,  and  is  joined  by  the  road  from 
the  lower  part  of  the  Valley  of  Hinnom  (pp.  84,  8f)).  The  AV.  branch 
of  the  road  leads  to  the  pleasing  houses  of  the  German  Colony  of  the 
Temple.  This  flourishing  colony  is  named  Rephaim,  from  the  plain 
(p.  15),  and  is  the  headquarters  of  the  Temple  Society  (pp.  10,  24). 

A  road  leads  hence  to  the  S.W.,  past  the  cemetery  of  the  Colony,  an  d 
brings  us  in  12  min.  to  the  Greek  buildings  at  Katamon,  among  which  aro 
a  small  church  called  Mdr  Sim'dn  (St.  Simeon)  and  the  summer-residence 
of  the  patriarch.    The  church  is  said  to  stand  on  the  site  of  the  house  0 
Simeon  (Luke  ii,  25),  who  recognized  the  Infant  Jesus  as  the  Messiah. 

A  few  minutes  to  the  W.  of  the  Temple  Colony  lies  the  Lepers' 
Hospital,  maintained  by  the  Moravian  Brothers  under  the  name  of'Jesus- 
hilfe1  (Director,  Schubert;  physician,  Dr.Einihr).  Leprosy  (Lepra)  is  the 
consequence  of  a  kind  of  decomposition  of  the  blood,  which  affects  the 
skin,  the  nerves,  and  the  bones.  Two  forms  of  leprosy  are  recognized  : 
tubercular  (lepra  nodosa),  in  which  festering  sores  are  developed,  and 
smooth  leprosy  (lepra  ansesthetica),  in  which  the  skin  turns  ashen-gray  or 
reddish-brown  in  colour,  and  which  ends  with  the  mortification  of  one 
limb  after  another.  In  former  times  lepers  were  entirely  cut  off  from 
intercourse,  with  their  fellow-creatures,  through  fear  of  infection.  The 
disease,  however,  is  not  infectious,  but  it  is  hereditary,   so  that  Ihe  only 

Bakdekeu's  Palestine  and  Syria.    4th  Edit.  5 


70    Route  4. 


JERUSALEM. 


f.  Western  and 


way  of  exterminating  it  is  to  prevent  patients  from  marrying.  Leprosy 
was  a  disease  of  somewhat  frequent  occurrence  among  the  Israelites,,  and 
the  Biblical  regulations  regarding  it  are  of  a  very  rigorous  character  (L«vit. 
xiii,  xiv).  There  are  now  about  70-80  lepers  in  Jerusalem.  Hideous]  y  re- 
pulsive leprous  beggars  from  the  Turkish  Leprosy  Hoipilal  (p.  8?)  are  still 
met  with  on  the  Jaffa  Road,  especially  on  the  way  to  the  Mount  of  Olives. 

The  road  (p.  68)  diverging  from  the  Bethlehem  road  to  the  left, 
at  the  S.W.  comer  of  the  citadel,  leads  to  the  so-called  Zion  Suutjrh, 
which  occupies  the  rocky  plateau  to  the  S.  of  the  present  city-wall, 
and  contains  the  Burial  Places  of  the  Latins,  Armenians,  Greeks, 
and  other  Christians.  At  the  S.W.  corner  of  the  city-wall  the  road 
forks.  The  branch  in  a  straight  direction  leads  to  Bishop  Go'nat's 
English  School  (PI.  D,  8,  9 ;  p.  21),  while  the  branch  to  the  left  Leads 
between  the  burial-places  to  En-Nebi  Daud  (see  below). 

The  Zion  Suburb  wps  certainly  enclosed  by  the  wall  of  David  and 
Solomon,  but  its  traditionary  identification  with  the  Zion  of  David  is 
nevertheless  unwarranted  (comp.  p.  31).  Traces  of  the  earliest  wall  are 
visible  near  Bishop  (Jobat's  School.  To  the  N.  of  the  school  is  a  point 
where  the  rock  has  evidently  been  artificially  cut  away.  In  the  vicinity 
are  some  old  cisterns.  The  dining-room  of  the  school  stands  upon  a  cube 
of  rock  which  formerly  bore  a  tower.  The  rocky  escarpment  here  projects 
16  yds.  towards  the  W.,  and  in  the  angle  are  remains  of  a  square  trough 
and  mangers  cut,  in  the  rock.  To  the  E.  the  escarpment  continues  towards 
the  Protestant  Cemetery,  where  a  tower-platform  projects  on  the  right.  To 
the  K.E.  of  the  cemetery  are  the  remains  of  a  third  tower;  also  i36  steps 
in  the  rock,  and  an  old  reservoir  for  water. 

The  large  congeries  of  buildings  known  as  En-Nebi  Daud 
('Prophet  David';  PI.  E,  8)  contains  on  the  first  floor  the  so-called 
Coenaculum,  or  Chamber  of  the  Last  Supper,  and  in  its  subterranean 
chambers  the  so-called  Tomb  of  David,  which  is  held  in  especial 
reverence  by  the  Muslims.  The  present  form  of  the  buildings  is 
due  mainly  to  the  Franciscans,  who  established  themselves  'on 
Zion'  in  1333.  During  the  following  century,  however,  their  posses- 
sions were  much  circumscribed,  and  in  1547  they  were  wholly 
supplanted  by  the  Muslims,  who  are  still  in  possession  and  often 
refuse  admission  to  Christians  (fee  1-2  fr.).  The  gate  is  on  the  N. 
side.  The  Cicnaculum  is  part  of  an  old  church,  the  pointed  vaulting 
of  which,  dating  from  the  14th  cent.,  rests  upon  two  columns  in  the 
middle,  and  on  half-pillars  with  quaint  capitals  built  into  the  walls. 
Under  the  centre  window  is  a  niche  for  prayer.  A  stone  in  the  N. 
wall  marks  the  Lord's  seat.  In  the  S.W.  corner  of  the  room  a  staircase 
descends  to  a  lower  room  (no  admission),  in  the  middle  of  which  is 
shown  the  place  where  the  table  (sufra)  of  the  Lord  is  said  to  have 
stood.  Visitors  are  also  refused  admission  to  the  tomb  of  David, 
but  a  modern  copy  of  his  sarcophagus  is  shown  in  an  upper  room 
reached  from  the  S.E.  corner  of  the  Coenaculum. 

The  Church  of  the  Apcstles  on  Zion  (also  called  the  'Church  of  Zion' 
and  'Mother  of  Churches'1)  is  mentioned  as  early  as  the  4th  cent.,  before  the 
erection  of  the  Church  of  the  Holy  Sepulchre.  It  stood  on  the  site  of  the 
house  of  John  whose  surname  was  Mark  (Acts  xii,  12  et  seq.)j  where  the 
earliest  Christians  assembled.  The  scene  of  the  Last  Supper  (.Mark  xiv,  15) 
and  of  the  Descent  of  the  Holy  Ghost  was  also  laid  on  this  spot.  The 
'column  of  scourging'  (sec  pp.  72  &  41)  was   likewise  shown  here  in  the 


Southern  Suburb*. 


JKIirSALEM. 


4.  Route.     71 


Gtlh  century.  The  scene  of  the  Virgin's  death  was  also  at  a  later  period 
(7tth  cent.)  transferred  hither,  and  the  spot  has  been  at  times  identified 
with  the  scene  of  St.  Stephen's  mariyrlcmi  (comp.  pp.  48,  73,  87).  About 
lii30  the  Crusaders  built  here  a  new  Church  of  Zioti,  or  of  St.  Mary,  consist- 
in;?  of  twn  stories.  The  lower  had  three  apses,  an  altar  on  the  spot  where 
Mairy  died,  and  another  on  the  spot  where  Jesus  appeared  'in  Galilee'. 
Tliic  washing  of  the  apostles'  feet  was  also  said  to  have  taken  place  here, 
whiile  the  upper  story  was  considered  the  scene  of  the  Last  Supper.  — 
Tli  e  Toml  of  David  formed  one  of  the  holy  places  in  the  church  of  Zion 
so  far  hack  as  the  Crusaders'  period,  and  it  is  possible  that  ancient  tombs 
sti  II  exist  beneath  the  building.  As  David  and  his  descendants  were  buried 
in  'the  city  of  David'  (1  Kings  ii.  10,  etc.),  the  expression  was  once  thought 


En-Xebi  Diud 

and  the  Dormitio  Sajictae  Mariae 

1  :  SOOO 

",,,,,'?    *? %t        JS°  Feet 

A  Ground  presented  ui  189X  by  the 
£mfxror  n'tiiiam.  H  to  the  German 
Catholic  Society  of  Oic  Holy  Land 

B  I^operty  ot ' the  Franciscans, 
former  American.  Cemetery. 

E ,  E  Entrances 


^    Daiul    fil 


to  mean  Bethlehem,  and  their  tombs  were  accordingly  shown  near  that 
town  from  the  3rd  to  the  Gth  century.  The  earliest  Christians,  however, 
who  were  doubtless  aware  of  the  site  of  David's  tomb,  appear  to  place  it 
in  Jerusalem  (Acts  ii.  29),  where  by  that  time  Hyreanus  and  Herod  had 
robbed  the  tombs  of  all  their  precious  contents.  According  to  Nehemiah 
iii.  16  and  E/.ekiel  xliii.  7,  we  are  justified  in  seeking  for  the  tombs  of 
the  kings  on  the  Temple  mount,  above  the  pool  of  Sil  am. 

The  plot  of  ground  of  the  Dormitio  Sanct^;  Mari^  (PI.  E,  8; 
dormitio  =  'the  sleep  of  death'))  situated  to  the  N.  of  the  Nebi- 
Daud,  was  presented  in  1898  by  the  Emperor  William  II.  to  the 
German  Catholic  Society  of  the  Holy  Land.  A  new  circular  Church 
of  the  Dormitio,  with  a  crypt,  is  in  course  of  construction;  and  a 
Benedictine  convent  is  also  being  erected  to  the  S.  of  it. 

5* 


i2    Route  4. 


JERUSALEM. 


f.  Gate  of  Zion. 


The  way  to  the  Gate  of  Zion  leads  past  the  Armenian  Monastery 
of  Mount  Zion  (PI.  E,  8),  which,  according  to  the  legend,  is  on  the 
site  of  the  House  of  Caiaphas.  The  tombs  of  the  Armenian  patriarchs 
of  Jerusalem  in  the  quadrangle  should  be  noticed.  The  small  church 
is  decorated  with  paintings,  and  has  an  altar  containing  the  'angel's 
stone',  with  which-  the  Holy  Sepulchre  is  said  to  have  been  closed. 
A  door  to  the  S.  leads  into  a  chamber  styled  the  prison  of  Christ,  from 
which  the  Arabs  call  the  building  Hubs  el-Mesih.  The  spot  where  Peter 
denied  Christ,  and  the  court  where  the  cock  crew,  are  also  shown. 

The  tradition  as  regards  this  incident  has  undergone  alteration.  Accord- 
ing to  the  Pilgrim  of  Bordeaux  (ca.  333),  the  house  of  Caiaphas  stood  be- 
tween  Siloam  and  Zion.  i.e.  to  the  E.  of  the  Ccenaculum.  Here  also  the 
'column  of  scourging'  was  shown,  its  site  being  transferred  later  (6th  cent.) 
to  (he  Church  of  the  Apostles  (p.  70).  In  the  12th  cent,  the  house  of 
Caiaphas  and  the  'prison  of  Chrisf  were  shown  at  the  Preetorium  (eomp. 
p.  48),  which  tradition  placed  on  the  Mount  of  Zion.  The  grotto  where  Peter 
wept  afier  denying  Christ  (Luke  xxii,  62),  on  the  S.E.  slope  of  the  mount, 
is  mentioned  in  the  12th  century.  A  church  stood  here  called  'St.  Peter 
in  tlallieantu'.  The  'angel's  stone'  is  not  heard  of  till  the  14th  cent., 
since  which  period  it  has  been  differently  described  and  probably  renewed- 
Latterly  the  Assumptionist  Fathers  have  placed  the  site  of  the  house  of 
Caiaphas  in  their  'Garden  of  St.  Peter',  to  the  S.E.  of  En-Nebi  Daud,  which 
agrees  better  with  the  opinion  of  the  Pilgrim  of  Bordeaux  (see  above). 

A  few  paces  to  the  N.  we  reach  the  Gate  of  Zion  (Arab.  Bab 
en-Ncbi  Daud,  gate  of  the  prophet  David;  PL  E,  7,  8),  situated  in 
a  tower  of  the  town-wall.  According  to  the  inscription  it  was  built 
in  947  (1540-41).  A  stone  built  into  the  E.  side-wall  of  the  gateway 
bears  a  Latin  inscription  of  the  time  of  Trajan  and  originally  belonged 
to  a  monument  in  honour  of  Jupiter  Serapis.  From  the  top  of  the 
battlements  we  may  enjoy  a  fine  view  of  the  hills  beyond  Jordan. 

Through  the  Armenian  quarter  back  to  the  Jaffa  Gate,  see  p.  34. 


5.  Environs  of  Jerusalem. 

a.  The  Mount  of  Olives.  (/I""  «t  0/ 1  ^ 

The  Mount  of  Olives  is  closely  connected  with  the  last  earthly  days  of 
Jesus  Christ.  In  full  view  of  the  Temple,  on  the  hill  opposite/  he  here 
announced  its  coming  destruction  to  his  tlisciples  (Mark  xiii.  1,  2).  It 
was  from  the  Mt.  of  Olives  that  he  rode  into  the  city  on  an  ass,  amid 
the  jubilation  of  the  people,  who  expected  him  to  restore  the  earthly 
kingdom  of  the  Messiah  (Matt,  xxi ;  Mark  xi;  Luke  xix;  John  xii).  After 
the  Last  Sapper  he  repaired  with  his  disciples  to  the  quiet  Garden  of 
Gethsemnne  (p.  75),  and  there,  through  the  treachery  of  Judas,  he  was 
arrested  in  the  course  of  the  night  (Matt.  xxvi.  36-56;  Mark  xiv.  43;  Luke 
xix.  29  and  xxii.  39;  John  xviii.  1).  The  tradition  that  the  Ascension 
took  place  on  the  Mt.  of  Olives  is,  however,  at  variance  with  the  assertion 
of  St.  Luke  (xxiv.  50)  that  'he  led  them  out  as  far  as  Bethany1. 

The  Kxcuusion  may  be  made  either  on  foot  or  by  carriage  (fare  10-12 fr. ; 
to  the  top  of  the  hill  l/t  hr.).  Drivers  who  wish  to  combine  this  excursion 
witn  that  to  Gelhsemane  and  the  .a!!.-,  of  the  Kid-on  (ec:np.  p.  75)  should 
order  the  carriage  to  meet  them  at  the  Garden  of  Gethsemane.  As  the  view 
of  the  valley  of  the  Jordan  is  finest  in  the  evening,  while  Jerusalem  is  best  i 
seen  in  the  light  of  the  rising  sun,  the  hill  should  certainly  be  visited  twice. 

The  Mt.  of  Olives  ( Mons  Olheti,  Arab.  Jebel  et-Tur),  or  Mt.  of 
Liyht,  as  it  is  sometimes  called,  runs  parallel  with  the  Temple  hill, 


TOMB  OF  THE  VIRGIN. 


5.  Route.     <>> 


but  is  somewhat  higher.  It  consists  mainly  of  chalky  limestone. 
The  Mt.  of  Olives,  in  its  broadest  sense,  includes  the  Mt.  of  Offence 
(PI.  K,  8,  9;  p.  82j  to  the  S.,  and  to  the  N.  an  eminence  sometimes 
erroneously  designated  as  Scopus  (p.  76).  The  Mt.  of  Olives  proper  is 
divided  into  four  eminences  by  low  depressions.  The  highest  point, 
to  the  N.  ('Viri  Galilaei',  p.  76),  is  2732  ft.  above  the  sea- level. 
The  slopes  are  cultivated,  but  the  vegetation  is  not  luxuriant.  The 
principal  trees  are  the  olive,  fig,  and  carob,  and  here  and  there  are 
a  few  apricot,  terebinth,  and  hawthorn  trees.  The  paths  are  stony, 
and  the  afternoon  sun  very  hot. 
\.^  Pedestrians  start  at  St.  Stephens  Gate  (PI.  H,  I,  3;  p.  48),  out- 
side which  the  way  to  the  lower  valley  of  the  Kidron  (comp.  p.  80) 
diverges  to  the  right,  while  the  Mt.  of  Olives  route  keeps  straight 
on.  Above,  to  the  left,  lies  the  pond  named  Birket  Sitti  Maryam 
(PI.  I,  3),  Birket  el-Asbdt  ('Dragon  Pool'),  or  Cittern  of  Hezekiah,  for 
which  last,  however,  there  is  no  authority.  The  pond,  which  is 
doubtless  of  mediaeval  construction,  is  32  yds.  long,  25  yds.  wide, 
and  13  ft.  deep;  in  the  corners  arc  remains  of  stairs,  and  in  the  S.W. 
corner  is  a  niche  where  the  water  is  drawn  off  into  a  channel  for  the 
supply  of  the  Bath  of  Our  Lady  Mary  (Hammiim  Sitti  Maryam). 

The  road  now  descends,  passing  a  rock  where  the  stoning  of 
St.  Stephen  is  said  to  have  taken  place  (comp.  pp.  48,  71,  87),  to  the 
bottom  of  the  valley,  which  we  cross  by  the  Upper  Bridge  (PI.  I,  3). 

To  the  left  of  the  road,  beyond  the  bridge,  is  the  church  of  the 
Tomb  of  the  Virgin  [Keniset  Sitti  Maryam;  PI.  K,  3),  where,  accord- 
ing to  the  legend,  she  was  interred  by  the  apostles,  and  where  she 
lay  until  herf  assumption'.  A  church  was  erected  here  as  early  as 
the  5th  cent,  but  was  repeatedly  destroyed.  Its  present  form  is  due 
to  Milinent  (d.  1161),  daughter  of  King  Baldwin  II.  of  Jerusalem. 
Tie  chapel  now  belongs  to  the  Greeks,  the  Latins  having  a  slight 
share  in  the  proprietorship. 

A  flight  of  steps  descends  to  the  space  in  front  of  the  church;  to 
the  right  is  the  passage  leading  to  the  Cavern  of  the  Agony  (p.  74). 
Tie  only  part  of  the  church  above  ground  is  the  Porch.  The  arches 
of  the  portal  rest  on  four  marble  columns.  A  handsome  Staircase  of 
47  marble  steps  descends  immediately  within  the  portal,  passing  a 
walled-up  door  [perhaps  the  entrance  to  the  tomb  of  Milicent)  and 
two  side-ohapels.  That  on  the  right  (PL  1)  contains  two  altars  and 
the  tombs  of  Joachim  and  Anne,  the  parents  of  the  Virgin.  The 
transference  of  these  tombs  hither  from  the  church  of  St.  Anne  seems 
to  have  taken  place  in  the  15th  cent.,  but  the  traditions  regarding 
them  have  since  been  frequently  varied  (comp.  pp.  48, 49).  The  chapel 
to  the  left  (PI.  2)  contains  an  altar  over  the  alleged  tomb  of  Joseph. 
The  flight  of  steps  ends  at  the  Church,  which  lies  35  ft.  below  the 
le^el  of  the  porch  and  is  31  yds.  long,  from  E.  to  \V.,  and  6>/2  yds. 
wile.  The  E.  wing,  which  is  much  longer  than  the  W.,  has  a  win- 
dov  above.    In  the  centre  of  this  wing  is  the  so-called  Sarcophagus 


iv-^-^M^L- 


WM 


74    Routt  5. 


CAVERN  OF  THE  AGONY. 


Environs 


of  Mary  (PI.  3),  a  lofty  sarcophagus  in  a  small  square  chapel,  Te- 
sembling  that  in  the  Church  of  the  Holy  Sepulchre  and  probably, 
like  that,  covering  a  rock-tomb.  On  the  E.  side  is  the  altar  of  fthe 
Greeks  (PI.  4),  on  the  N.  that  of  the  Armenians  (PI.  5).  To  the  fc>_  of 
the  tomb  is  a  prayer-recess  of  the  Muslims  (PI.  6),  who  for  a  ti  mo 
had  a  joint  right  to  the  sanctuary.  'Omar  himself  is  said  once  to  iiave 


v 


1.   Tomb  of  Mary's  Parents.     2.    Joseph's  Tomb.     3.    Sarcophagus  of  Mary. 

4.  Altar  of  the  Greeks.     5.  Altar  of  the  Armenians.     6.    Prayer  Recess  of 

the  Muslims.     7.  Vaults,     b.  Altar  of  the  Abyssinians.     !•.  Cistern. 

10.  Cavern  of  the  Agony. 


prayed  here,  in  lJezmarilyeli  (Gethsemane).  Opposite  the  stairs,  to 
the  N.,  are  vaults  of  little  importance  (PI.  7),  The  W.  wing  con- 
tains an  altar  of  the  Abyssinians  (PI.  8),  in  front  of  which  is  a 
cistern  (PI.  9)  with  fairly  good  water,  considered  by  the  Greeks  and 
Armenians  to  be  a  specific  against  various  diseases. 

On  our  return  to  the  upper  fore-court  we  follow  the  passage 
(PI.  c)  mentioned  at  p.  73,  which  finally  makes  a  descent  of  six  steps 
and  leads  us  into  the  so-called  Cavern  oftheAyonyQ Antrum  Agonise'; 
PI.  10),  where  the  sweat  of  Jesus  'was  as  it  were  great  drops  of  blood 
falling  down  to  the  ground'  (Luke  xxii.  44).  The  cavern  is  about 
18  yds.  long,  9!/2  yds.  broad,  and  12  ft.  high,  and  is  lighted  by  a  small 
opening  above.  This  is  a  genuine  grotto  in  the  solid  rock,  although 
whitewashed  at  places.  The  ceiling  still  bears  traces  of  old  frescoes, 
particularly  towards  the  E.,  and  is  borne  partly  by  natural  pillars,  and 
partly  by  masonry.  The  cavern,  which  now  belongs  to  the  Franciscans, 


of  Jerusalem . 


GETHSEMANE. 


5.  Route.    75 


contains  three  altars  and  several  broad  stone  benches.  In  the  middle 
ages  it  was  believed  to  be  the  spot  where  Jesus  was  taken  captive. 

A  few  paces  from  the  Tomb  of  the  Virgin,  towards  the  S. ,  on 
the  opposite  side  of  the  road  leading  to  the  Mt.  of  Olives,  is  situated 
the  Garden  of  Gethsemane  (PI.  K,  4),  a  word  signifying  'oil-press'. 
The  garden,  which  is  still  a  quiet  and  secluded  spot,  is  surrounded 
by  a  wall  and  forms  an  irregular  square,  with  a  diameter  of  TO  paces. 
It  belongs  to  the  Franciscans.  The  earliest  account  of  the  place  which 
we  possess  dates  from  the  4th  cent. ;  and  in  this  case  tradition  tallies 
With  t lie  Bible  narrative.  At  one  time  it  contained  several  churches. 
The  entrance  is  from  the  E.  side,  i.e.  the  side  next  the  Mt.  of  Olives. 
A  rock  immediately  to  the  E.  of  this  door  marks  the  spot  where 
Peter,  James,  and  John  slept  (Mark  xiv.  32  et  seq.).  Some  ten  or 
twelve  paces  to  the  S.  of  this  spot,  the  fragment  of  a  column  in  the 
wall  indicates  the  traditional  place  wThere  Judas  betrayed  Jesus  with 
a  kiss.  The  garden  contains  eight  venerable  olive-trees,  which  are 
said  to  date  from  the  time  of  Christ;  their  trunks  have  split  witli 
age  and  are  shored  up  witli  stones.  The  monk  who  keeps  the  garden 
presents  the  visitor  with  a  bouquet  of  flowers,  as  a  memento  of  the 
place;  the  visitor  should  offer  him  1  fr.  for  the  maintenance  of  the 
garden.  The  olive-oil  yielded  by  the  trees  of  the  garden  is  sold  at 
a  high  price,  and  rosaries  are  made  from  the  olive-stones. 

The  road  to  Jericho  (sec  p.  125)  leads  towards  the  8.  from  the  Garden 
of  Gethsemane.  The  road  to  the  valley  of  the  Kidron  (see  p.  80)  diverges 
to  the  right  a  little  farther  on. 

Three  routes  lead  from  the  garden  of  Gethsemane  to  the  (^4  hr.) 
top  of  the  Mt.  of  Olives,  one  of  which  starts  from  the  S.E.  and 
another  from  the  N.K.  comer,  the  latter  soon  again  dividing.  At 
this  point,  about  thirty  paces  from  the  garden,  there  is  situated,  on 
the  right,  a  light-grey  rock,  which  has  been  pointed  out  since  the 
14th  cent,  as  the  place  where  the  Virgin  on  her  assumption  dropped 
her  girdle  into  the  hands  of  St.  Thomas.  Close  by  is  a  small  Russian 
hospice.  Several  Christian  graves  were  discovered  here,  one  of  which 
yielded  some  silver  coins  of  King  Baldwin.  —  The  steep  path  diverg- 
ing to  the  right  leads  direct  to  the  village  of  Kafr  et-Tur  (p.  76).  To 
the  right,  above  this  path,  is  a  separate  Gethsemane  Garden  belonging 
to  the  Greeks ;  the  Church  of  St.  Mary  Magdalen  (PI.  K,  4),  surmounted 
by  seven  bulbous  domes  and  adorned  in  the  interior  witli  paintings, 
was  built  in  1888  at  the  expense  of  Emperor  Alexander  111.  About 
halfway  up,  a  ruin  on  the  left  has  been  shown  since  the  14th  cent, 
as  the  spot  where  'when  he  was  come  near,  he  beheld  the  city,  and 
wept  over  it'  (Luke  xix.  41).  The  spot  commands  a  beautiful  view  of 
the  city.  Even  the  Muslims  once  regarded  the  scene  of  the  Weeping 
of  Christ  as  holy,  and  a  mosque  stood  here  in  the  17th  century. 

The  Carriage  Koad  to  the  Mount  of  Olives  quits  the  Jaffa 
road  (p.  68)  at  the  Idoyd  Hotel,  skirts  the  outside  of  the  N.  city- 
wall  (p.  08)  to  the  Damascus  Gate  (PI.  E,  3;  p.  85),  and  then  leads 


76    Route  5 


MOUNT  OF  OLIVES. 


to  the  N.,  passing  the  Dominican  monastery  (p.  87),  the  house  of 
the  English  bishop  (Tombs  of  the  Kings;  p.  87),  the  House  of  the 
American  Colony  of  Spaffordites,  and  the  Weli  Sheikh  Jerrdh.  it 
crosses  the  flat  upper  part  of  the  Kidron  Valley,  here  named  the 
Wddi  el-J6z  (Valley  of  Nuts),  with  the  Jewish  Colonies  to  the  left, 
while  to  the  right,  in  the  valley,  are  some  rock-tombs,  including 
the  'Grave  of  Simon  the  Just',  a  Jewish  place  of  pilgrimage.  The 
road  then  ascends  in  a  wide  curve  to  the  top  of  the  Scopus  (Arabic 
Meshdrif),  where  Titus  and  his  legions  encamped  during  the  siege 
of  Jerusalem.  This  point  affords  the  best  idea  of  the  rocky  ridge 
upon  which  the  city  lies.  The  N.  city  wall  makes  the  impression  of 
a  mediaeval  fortress.  The  road  to  Nabulus  (p.  211)  diverges  here  to 
the  left,  while  that  to  the  Mount  of  Olives  makes  a  sweep  to  the 
S.E.,  passing  the  conspicuous  country-house  of  Sir  John  Gray  Hill, 
and  ascends  towards  the  S.  to  the  top  of  the  Mount  of  Olives. 

Th6  N.  summit  of  the  Mt.  of  Olives  proper  (p.  73)  is  called 
Viri  Galilsei  (Arab.  Karem  es-Sayydd:  'the  vineyard  of  the  hunter'). 
The  first  name  it  owes  to  a  tradition,  which  arose  in  the  13th  cent., 
that  the  'men  of  Galilee'  were  addressed  here,  on  the  spot  marked 
by  two  broken  columns,  by  the  two  men  in  white  apparel  after  tho 
Ascension  (Acts  i.  11),  The  passage  Matth.  xxvi.  32  was  also 
interpreted  to  mean  that  Christ  had  appeared  here  'in  Galilee'.  The 
greater  part  of  the  area  now  belongs  to  the  Greeks,  who  have  erected 
a  chapel,  a  small  episcopal  residence,  and  other  buildings. 

Towards  the  S.  (races  of  a  Christian  Burial  Ground  (remains  of  tlie  wall, 
fragments  of  columns,  mosaic  pavement  with  15  graves  beneath  it)  were  dis- 
covered. Under  the  present  E.  wall  of  the  area  an  extensive  burial-place, 
consisting  of  Jewish  and  Christian  Hock  Tombs  (possibly  the  Peristereon  of 
Josephus),  was  found.    The  antiquities  are  preserved  in  the  bishop's  house. 

The  road  ends  at  the  village  of  Kafir  et-Tur,  a  group  of  poor 
stone  cottages  on  the  W.  side  of  the  two  central  summits. 

We  now  proceed  to  the  E.  to  theiRussian  Buildings.  In  the 
garden,  which  is  surrounded  by  a  high  wall,  is  a  handsome  Church, 
erected  after  the  design  of  the  old  church,  the  remains  of  which  were 
found  here.  A  stone  in  front  marks  the  scene  of  the  Ascension  accord- 
ing to  the  believers  of  the  Greek  Church.  Behind  is  the  six-storied 
Belvedere  Tower,  from  the  platform  of  which  (214  stops)  we  have  a 
magnificent  *View,  especially  of  Jerusalem  and  its  environs. 

Beyond  the  valley  of  the  Kidron  extends  the  spacious  plateau 
of  the  llaram  esh-Sherif,  where  the  Dome  of  the  Rock  and  the  Aksa 
Mosque  present  a  particularly  imposing  sight.  The  hollow  of  tho 
Tyropceon  (p.  30)  is  plainly  distinguishable  between  the  Temple  hill 
and  the  upper  part  of  the  town.  To  the  left  of  the  Church  of  the 
Holy  Sepulchre  and  the  more  distant  Latin  Patriarchate  rise-  the 
tower  of  the  new  Protestant  Church  of  the  Redeemer  (p.  46).  Farther 
to  the  right,  in  the  distance,  is  the  large  Russian  building  in  tha  W. 
suburb.  —  Towards  the  N.  is  seen  the  upper  course  of  the  valley  of 
the  Kidron,  decked  with  rich  verdure  in  spring,  beyond  which  rises 


l< 


MOUNT  OF  OLIVES. 


5.  Route.     77 


the  8<-opus.  —  The  view  towards  the  E.  is  striking.  The  clearness 
of  tLe  atmosphere  is  so  deceptive  that  the  hlue  waters  of  the  Dead 
Sea  seem  quite  near  our  eye,  though  really  lb^/zM.  distant  and  no  less 
than  3900  ft.  below  our  present  standpoint.  The  blue  heights  which 
rise  beyond  the  deep  chasm  are  the  mountains  of  Moab  (pp.  xlviii, 
xlix).  To  the  extreme  S.  of  the  range,  a  small  eminence  crowned  by 
the  village  of  El-Kerak  (p.  149)  is  visible  in  clear  weather.  On  the  E. 
margin  of  the  Dead  Sea  are  seen  two  wide  openings ;  that  to  the  S. 
is  the  valley  of  the  river  Arnon  (Mojib),  and  that  to  the  N.  the 
valley  of  the  Zerka  Main.  Farther  to  the  N.  rises  the  Jebel  JiPad 
(Gilead).  Nearer  to  us  lies  the  valley  of  Jordan  (el-Ghor),  the  course 
of  the  river  being  indicated  by  a  green  line  on  a  whitish  ground.  — 
Towards  the  S.E.  we  see  the  road  to  Jericho ;  to  the  left  some  of  the 
houses  of  Bethany;  high  up,  beyond  Bethany,  the  village  of  Abu 
Dis;  farther  to  the  left,  the  Chapel  of  the  Meeting  (p.  126);  below, 
in  the  foreground,  the  chapel  of  Bethphage  (p.  79).  Quite  near  us 
rises  the  'Mountain  of  Offence',  beyond  the  Kidron  that  of  'Evil 
Counsel',  and  farther  distant,  to  the  S.,  is  the  summit  of  the  'Frank 
Mountain',  or  Jebel  el-Fureidis,  with  the  heights  of  Bethlehem  and 
Tekoah.  To  the  S.W.,  on  the  fringe  of  hills  which  bounds  the  plain 
of  Rephaim  on  the  S.,  lies  the  monastery  of  Mar  Elyas,  past  which 
winds  the  road  to  Bethlehem.  This  town  itself  is  concealed  from 
view,  but  several  villages  are  distinctly  visible. 

Eastwards,  behind  the  church,  is  the  Souse  of  the  Archimandrite.  In 
building  this  house,  some  interesting  mosaics  were  found,  whiJh  are  now 
preserved  in  one  of  the  rooms;  beneath  this  room  is  a  sepulchral  chamber. 
There  are  similar  mosaics  in  the  vaulted  chambers  and  tomb  discovered 
to  the  S.  of  the  house.  The  mosaics  contain  Armenian  inscriptions  of  the 
9th  and  10th  centuries:  all  of  them  are  relics  of  an  Armenian  monastery. 

The  Chapel  of  the  Ascension,  on  a  site  long  accepted  by  Occidental 
tradition  but  dating  in  its  present  form  only  from  1834-35,  lies  in 


a.  Entrance. 

b.  Paved  Path. 

1.  Chapel  of  the  Ascension. 

2.  Prayer   Recess   of  the  Ar- 

menians. 

3.  Recess  of  the  Copts. 

4.  Recess  of  the  Syrians. 

5.  Recess  of  the  Greeks. 
0.  Remains  of  Columns. 
7.  Cisterns. 


the  village  itself,  adjoining  a  Dervish  monastery,  which  was  originally 
an  Augustine  abbey.   The  scene  of  the  Ascension  was  located  on  the 


Kfl^ff- 


78     Route  5. 


MOUNT  OF  OLIVES. 


Environ* 


Mt.  of  Olives  as  early  as  315.  Constantine  erected  a  roofless  basilica 
over  the  spot.  About  the  year  600  many  monasteries  stood  on  the 
mount.  In  the  7th  cent,  there  was  a  small  round  church  here,  -which, 
had  been  built  by  Modestus,  but  was  destroyed  in  the  11th  century. 
A  church  mentioned  in  1130  was  also  destroyed.  The  chapel  now 
belongs  to  the  Muslims,  who  also  consider  this  a  sacred  spot,  but 
Christians  are  permitted  to  celebrate  mass  in  it  on  certain  days.  A 
handsome  portal  (PI.  a)  admits  us  to  a  court,  in  the  centre  of  which 
rises  the  chapel  of  irregular  octagonal  shape,  21  feet  in  diameter, 
over  which  rises  a  cylindrical  drum  with  a  dome.  The  chapel  has 
been  rebuilt  according  to  the  original  model,  but  the  pointed  arches 
over  the  corner-pilasters  were  formerly  open  instead  of  built  up. 
The  capitals  and  bases  of  the  columns  are  of  white  marble  and  have 
probably  been  brought  from  older  buildings.  In  an  oblong  marble 
enclosure  is  shown  the  impression  of  the  right  foot  of  Christ,  turned 
southwards.  Since  the  time  of  the  Prankish  domination  this  foot- 
print has  been  so  variously  described,  that  it  must  have  been  fre- 
quently renewed  since  then. 

In  the  S.W.  corner  of  the  monastery  of  the  dervishes  is  a  door 
leading  to  the  Vault  of  St.  Pelagia  (Arab.  Rahibet  Bint  Hasan).  The 
door  opens  into  an  anteroom,  whence  twelve  steps  descend  to  a  tomb- 
chamber,  now  a  Muslim  place  of  prayer,  and  generally  closed. 

The  Jews  place  here  the  tomb  of  the  prophetess  Huldah  (2  Kings 
xxii.  14),  and  the  Christians  the  dwelling  of  St.  Pelagia  of  Antioch,  who 
did  penance  here  for  her  sins  in  the  5th  cent.,  and  wrought  miracles  even 
after  her  death.  The  tradition  as  to  Pelagia  dates  from  the  Crusaders'  period. 

To  the  S.  of  the  village  of  Kafr  et-Tur,  beyond  the  divergence  of 
the  routes  to  Bethany  (see  p.  79)  on  the  left,  and  Gethsemane  (see 
p.  75)  on  the  right,  lie  the  Latin  Buildings,  consisting  of  a  Car- 
melite Nunnery,  the  Church  of  the  Creed,  and  the  Church  of  the  Lord's 
Prayer.  The  low-lying  Church  of  the  Creed  is  so  situated  that  the  roof 
forms  a  terrace  only  slightly  raised  above  the  surface  of  the  ground. 
Of  the  pointed  arches  at  the  sides,  only  two  at  the  N.  end  are  still 
preserved.  According  to  the  account  of  Eusebius,  the  Empress  Helena 
erected  a  church  upon  the  Mount  of  Olives  'over  the  grotto  in  which. 
Jesus  initiated  his  disciples  into  the  secrets  of  his  doctrines'.  In  the 
15th  cent,  a  'Church  of  St.  Mark'  stood  here.  According  to  mediaeval 
tradition,  it  was  here  that  the  apostles  drew  up  the  Creed.  The  Church 
of  the  Paternoster,  or  Lord's  Prayer,  to  the  E.  of  the  Church  of  the 
Creed,  was  originally  erected,  in  consequence  of  a  sermon  by  Peter 
the  Hermit,  on  the  spot  where,  according  to  medieval  tradition,  Christ 
taught  his  disciples  the  Lord's  Prayer.  The  present  building  was 
erected  in  1898  at  the  cost  of  the  Princess  Latour  d'Auvergne.  In 
the  vestibule  arc  a  leaden  sarcophagus,  many  fragments  of  marbie,  and 
other  antiquities  found  in  the  course  of  building.  To  the  W.  is  the  Hall 
of  the  Lord's  Prayer.  In  the  passage  round  the  handsome  court  are 
tablets  inscribed  with  the  Lord's  Prayer  in  32  different  languages. 
On  the  S.  side  is  the  tomb  of  the  princess,  with  a  lifesize  marble  efligy. 


of  Jerusalem. 


MOUNT  OF  OLIVES. 


5.  Route. 


79 


The  road  leads  on  to  the  S.W.  to  the  so-called  Tombs  of  the 
Prophets,  a  series  of  old  rock-tombs  which  are  greatly  revered  by 
the  Jews  and  now  belong  to  the  Russians.  No  charge  is  made  for 
admission,  but 
the  custodian 
expects  a  gratu- 
ity of  50  cen- 
times. Candles 
are  necessary. 
Th  e  arrange- 
ment of  the 
tombs  is  shown 
on  the  adjoin- 

img  ground- 
plan.  The  pas- 
sages are  partly 
filled   up,    and 
the  wall  of  the 

outermost 
contains  several 

shaft-tombs 
(p.  xciv).     To 
the  S.W.,  at  a 

somewhat 
higher  level,  is 
.a  side-chamber 
(PL  2)  contain- 
ing five  tombs ; 
another  side- 
chamber  (PI.  3) 
has    been    left 

unfinished. 
Greek  inscrip- 
tions found  here  make  it  highly  probable  that  this  was  a  burial-place 
of  the  4-6th  century,  while  the  central  rotunda  may  have  been  a 
cistern.    PI.  1  shows  the  opening  in  the  ceiling. 

On  the  road  to  Bethany  (comp.  p.  78),  about  1/2  M.  to  the  E.  of  the 
Latin  Buildings,  are  the  remains  of  a  chapel  of  the  Crusaders  discovered  in 
1880.  The  Franciscans  have  built  a  new  chapel  here.  The  remains  of 
frescoes  and  inscriptions  found  here  show  that  the  Crusaders  regarded  this 
as  the  site  of  Bethphage,  where  the  disciples  found  the  ass  on  which  Jesus 
rode  into  Jerusalem  (Matth.  xxi.  1  •,  Mark  xi.  1 ;  Luke  xix.  29).  This  identi- 
fication is,  however,  very  doubtful,  and  it  would  seem  likely  that  the  vil- 
lage lay  much  farther  to  the  E.  —  It  is  a  walk  of  20  min.  to  reach  Bethany 
(p.  125)  from  the  chapel. 

b .  The  Valley  of  the  Kidrou  and  the  Valley  of  Einnom. 

The  valleys  enclosing  Jerusalem  on  the  E.,  S.,  and  W.  are  wide  and 
shallow  in  their  upper  parts,  but  contract  and  fall  off  rapidly  toward  the  S. 
The  Valley  of  the  Kidron  or  Kedron,  now  called  Wddi  Sitti  Mai-yam,  or  'Valley 


80    Route  5.        VALLEY  OF  THE  KIDRON. 


Environ.* 


of  St.  Mary',  to  the  E.  of  the  city,  contained  water  in  winter  during  the  time 
of  Christ,  but  is  now  entirely  dry  (comp.  p.  30).  At  Uethsemane  its  floor 
is  150  ft.  below  the  Haram,  but  at  Job's  Well  (p.  83)  it  is  200  ft.  lower. 
In  contradistinction  to  the  Temple  Hill,  this  valley  was  regarded  as  un- 
clean. The  name  of  iValley  of  JehoshaphaC  is  of  early  origin,  having  been 
already  applied  to  this  valley  by  the  venerable  Pilgrim  of  Bordeaux  (ca.  333), 
but  the  tradition  that  this  gorge  will  be  the  scene  of  the  Last  Judgment 
(p.  62),  founded  on  a  misinterpretation  of  a  passage  in  the  book  of  Joel 
(iii.  2),  is  probably  of  pre-Christian  origin.  The  Muslims,  who  have  also 
adopted  this  tradition,  accordingly  bury  their  dead  on  the  E.  side  of  the 
Haram  esh-Sherif,  while  the  Jews  have  their  cemetery  on  the  W.  side 
of  the  Mt.  of  Olives  (comp.  p.  62).  —  The  name  of  Valley  of  Hinnom  is 
attached  to  the  valley  to  the  S.  and  W.  (Arabic  Wddi  er-Iiabdbi),  especially 
to  its  lower  part.  The  Hebrew  name  is  6V  Hen  Hinnom,  'the  valley  of  Ben 
Hinnom'  (Josh.  xv.  8).  In  this  neighbourhood  lay  Tophet,  the  'place  of  fire', 
where  the  Israelites  sometimes  sacrificed  children  to  Moloch  (Jer.  vii.  31 ; 
2  Kings  xxiii.  10).  Even  at  a  later  period  the  valley  was  an  object  of  de- 
testation to  the  Jews,  whence  the  word  Gehenna,  used  in  the  Xew  Testa- 
ment, a  contraction  of  Gehinnom,  came  to  signify  hell  among  both  the  Jews 
and  the  Mohammedans.  The  name  'Valley  of  Fire",  at  present  applied  to 
the  lower  part  of  the  valley  of  the  Kidron  (  Wddi  en-Ndv),  may  perhaps  have 
some  connection  with  these  ancient  idolatrous  rites. 

The  excursion  may  be  made  either  on  foot  or  on  horseback. 

Just  outside  the  Gate  of  St.  Stephen  (PI.  II,  I,  3;  p.  48)  we  follow 
a  road  diverging  to  the  right  from  the  route  to  the  Mount  of  Olives 
(p.  73).  This  leads  us  past  the  Muslim  graves  below  the  E.  wall  of 
the  Haram  (Golden  Gate,  p.  67)  to  the  S.E.  corner,  where  we  take 
the  road  to  the  left  and  proceed  across  the  Lower  Kidron  Bridge 
(PI.  I,  5)  to  the  Tomh  of  Ahsalom. 

Those  who  combine  this  excursion  with  the  visit  to  the  Mount  of 
Olives  diverge  to  the  right  from  the  Jericho  road  (PI.  K,  4 ;  p.  75) 
to  the  S.  of  Gethsemane.   The  whole  slope  above  this  road  is  covered  ■ 
with  Jewish  graves.    The  first  tomb  we  come  to  on  this  route,  to  the 
left  of  the  road,  is  the  so-called  — 

Tomb  of  Absalom  (Arab.  Tantur  Fir'aun,  'cap  of  Pharaoh';  PI.  I, 
K,  5).  The  lower  part  of  this  strange-looking  monument  consists  of 
a  large  cube,  19y2  ft.  square  and  21  ft. 
high,  hewn  out  of  the  solid  rock.  Above 
this  rises  a  square  superstructure  of 
large  stones,  terminating  in  a  low  spire 
which  widens  a  little  at  the  top  like  an 
opening  flower.  The  whole  monument 
rises  to  a  height  of  48  ft.  above  the  sur- 
rounding rubbish.  The  rock-cube  is  first 
l'  '    ""'  i  mentioned  in  333  A.D.,  but  it  was  not 

j>  till  the  16th  cent,  that  its  connection 

£      EX      ■       withAbsalom(basedon'2Sam.  xviii.  18) 
became   exclusive   of   all   other   attri- 
A  buttons.    The  prominent  Ionic  capitals 

of  the  half-columns  and  corner-pilasters, 
the  frieze,  and  the  Doric  architrave  point  to  the  Gneco-Roman  period 
as  the  date  of  its  construction.  The  tomb-chambers  in  the  interior,  now 


-J~L 


?- 


of  Jerusalem.     VALLEY  OF  THE  KIDRON.        5.  Route.     81 


filled  with  rubbish,  may  be  possibly  of  earlier  origin,  but  in  this  case 
the  decorations,  with  their  grotesque  mixture  of  Greek  and  Egyptian 
styles,  were  presumably  added  at  a  much  later  time.  In  memory  of 
Absalom's  disobedience,  it  used  to  be  customary  with  the  Jews  to 
pelt  this  monument  with  stones.  The  proper  entrance  to  the  structure 
is  imbedded  in  rubbish. 

On  the  Plan  at  p.  80  the  Tomh  of  Absalom  is  marked  with  A.  The 
so-called  Tomh  of  Jehoshaphat,  to  the  E.  of  it,  is  entirely  choked  with 
rubbish.  The  main  chamber  (PL  1)  shows  traces  of  a  coat  of  mortar  and 
of  frescoes,  which  suggest  that  it  was  once  used  as  a  Christian  chapel.  It 
may  possibly  be  the  chapel  which  enclosed  the  tomb  of  St.  James  in  the 
time  of  the  Franks. 

A  little  farther  to  the  S.,  on  the  edge  of  the  rock,  is  the  shaft- 
like  entrance  to  the  Grotto  of  St.  James  (PI.  I,  K,  5),  a  rock-tomb 
probably  also  dating  from  the  Gneco-Rornan  period,  in  which,  accord- 
ing to  a  tradition  of  thejGth  cent.,  St.  James  is  said  to  have  lain 
concealed  without  food 
from  the  taking  of  Jesus 
until  the  Resurrection. 
The  tradition  that  this 
grotto  is  his  tomb  is  not 
earlier  than  the  15th  cen- 
tury. The  vestibule  of 
the  tomb  (PI.  1)  is  open 
towards  the  valley  (W.) 
for  a  space  of  16  ft.  The 
front  part  of  the  ceiling 
is  borne  by  two  Doric 
columns  7  ft.  in  height 

(PI.  a),  adjoining  which  are  two  side-pillars  incorporated  with  the 
rock.  Above  these  runs  a  Doric  frieze  with  triglyphs;  over  the 
cornice  is  a  Hebrew  inscription.  Through  a  second  ante-chamber 
(PI.  '2),  we  enter  a  chamber  (PI.  3)  with  three  shaft-tombs;  beyond 
which  we  ascend  by  several  steps  to  a  small  chamber  to  the  N.E. 
(PI.  4).  To  the  N.  of  No.  2  is  a  chamber  (PL  5)  containing  three 
shaft-tombs,  and  to  the  S.  of  it  is  a  passage  (PL  G)  with  a  shelf  of 
rock,  to  which  steps  ascend;  above  the  shelf  are  four  shaft-tombs. 
—  From  the  vestibule  of  the  Grotto  of  St.  James  a  passage  (PI.  7) 
leads  southwards  to  the  Pyramid  of  Zacharias  (PI.  I,  K,  5),  erected 
according  to  the  Christians  in  memory  of  the  Zacharias  mentioned 
by  St.  Matthew  (xxiii.  35),  but  according  to  the  Jews  in  memory  of 
the  Zechariah  of  2Chron.xxiv.20.  This  monument,  which  is  291//2IL 
high  and  lG^ft.  square,  is  entirely  hewn  in  the  rock.  On  the  S.  side 
are  still  soen  the  holes  which  probably  supported  the  scaffolding 
of  the  masons.  Between  the  square  corner-pillars  are  placed  half- 
columns  with  Ionic  capitals,  which  again  seem  to  point  to  the  Graeco- 
Roman  period.  Above  runs  a  bare  cornice,  over  which  rises  a  blunted 
pyramid. 


Route  5. 


VALLEY  OF  THE  KIDRON. 


Environs 


A  little  farther  to  the  S.  we  reach  the  village  of  Siloali  (Arab. 
Kafr  Silw&n;  PI.  H,  I,  7-9),  the  houses  of  which  cling  to  the  steep 
hillside.  Many  ancient  rock-toinbs  here  are  used  either  as  dwellings 
or  as  stables.  At  the  entrance  to  the  village  there  is  another  mono- 
lith, known  as  the  'Tomb  of  Pharaoh's  Daughter';  over  the  entrance 
are  the  remains  of  an  inscription  in  ancient  Hebrew  letters.  This 
monolith  dates  from  a  period  before  the  Exodus;  the  cornice  with 
hollow  moulding  is  evidence  of  Egyptian  influence.  In  the  lower 
part  of  the  cliff  is  a  series  of  entrances  to  tombs,  some  of  them 
artistically  hewn.  The  inhabitants  of  Silwan,  who  are  all  Muslims, 
are  notorious  for  their  thievish  propensities.  They  live  chiefly  by 
farming  and  cattle-breeding,  and  some  of  them  bring  water  from  the 
Siloah  or  Job's  well  on  the  backs  of  donkeys  into  the  town  for  sale. 
To  the  S.  of  Siloah  lies  the  Leper  Hospital  of  the  Turkish  Government, 
managed  by  the  Sceurs  de  Charite  (comp.  p.  69).  —  From  the  village 
we  may  ascend  in  7-8  min.  to  the  top  of  the  Jebd  Bain  el-Ha<ra,  or 
Mountain  of  Offence  (PL  K,  8,  9),  considered  part  of  the  Mount  of 
Olives  group  (comp.  pp.  72,  73).  Its  name  (A/ojis  Offcnsionis,  Nona 
Scandali)  is  derived  from  1  Kings  xxiii.  13,  as  the  Vulgate,  rightly 
or  wrongly,  localized  here  the  scene  of  Solomon's  idolatrous  practices. 
On  the  summit  is  a  Benedictine  convent  witli  a  seminary  of  the 
United  Syrians.  The  view,  which  includes  the  Wddi  Knttxin  on  the 
E.,  and  the  Valley  of  the  Kidron  on  the  W.  and  S.,  is  very  inferior 
to  that  from  the  Mt.  of  Olives. 

From  the  N.  part  of  the  village  of  Siloah  a  road  descends  to  the 
"W.  to  the  neighbouring  (5  min.)  Fountain  of  the  Virgin  (PI.  H,  7), 
Arab.  'Ain  Sitti  Man/am,  or  'A  in  Umm  ed-T)erej  (  fountain  of  steps). 
The  name  is  derived  from  a  legend  of  the  14th  cent,  to  the  effect 
that  the  Virgin  once  drew  water  or  washed  the  swaddling-clothes 
of  her  Son  here.  It  is  probably  identical  with  the  spring  of  Oihon, 
where  the  faithful  followers  of  David  anointed  (-'olomon  as  King 
(1  Kings  i.  38).  We  descend  by  sixteen  steps  through  a  vault  to  a 
level  space,  and  by  fourteen  steps  more  to  the  water.  The  basin  is 
ID/2  ft-  long  and  5  ft.  wide,  and  the  bottom  is  covered  with  small 
stones.  The  spring  is  intermittent.  In  the  rainy  winter  season  tho 
water  flows  from  three  to  five  times  daily,  in  summer  twice,  and  in 
autumn  once  only.  This  is  accounted  for  as  follows.  In  the  interior 
of  the  rock  there  is  a  natural  reservoir,  in  which  the  water  collects, 
This  reservoir  is  connected  with  the  basin  by  a  syphon-shaped 
passage,  which,  acting  by  a  natural  law,  empties  the  reservoir  into 
the  basin  whenever  the  water  in  the  former  reaches  the  highest 
level  of  the  syphon-like  outlet. 

Efforts  were  made  at  a  very  early  period  to  make  the  waters  of  this 
spring  available  for  the  inhabitants  of  the  city.  Perhaps  the  earliest  of 
these  is  the  canal,  discovered  by  Schick  in  1891  and  not  yet  fully  ex- 
cavated, which  conveyed  the  water  along  the  surface  of  the  ground  to  tho 
Pool  of  Siloam  (p.  83).  This  channel  is  perhaps  referred  to  in  the  phrape 
pf  Isaiah  (viii.  6),  'the  waters  of  Shiloah  that  go  softly'.    As  this  channel 


of  Jerusalem.     VALLEY  OF  THE  KIDRON.        5.  Route.    83 


would  be  of  little  use  in  time  of  war,  a  subterranean  passage  was 
constructed  (probably  also  under  one  of  the  early  kings)  from  within  the 
walls  to  a  perpendicular  shaft  above  the  spring.  An  attempt  to  deprive 
enemies  of  the  water  was  made  by  the  construction  Of  the  subterranean 
Siloah  Cttnali  which  is  very  probably  a  work  of  Hezekiah  (2  Kings  xx.  20). 
This  channel  is  of  very  rude  construction  and  now  at  places  very  low  and 
narrow.  Curiously  enough,  it  is  not  straight,  but  has  several  windings, 
and  there  are  a  number  of  small  cufo  de  toe  in  its  course,  apparently 
showing  that  the  unskilled  workmen  had  frequently  lost  the  right,  direction. 
The  distance  in  a  straight  line  is  366  yds.,  but  by  the  rocky  channel 
583  yds.  The  vertical  shafts  are  also  interesting.  As  the  water  frequently 
tills  the  passage  quite  unexpectedly,  it  is  dangerous  to  attempt  to  pass 
through  it.  —  In  1880  the  oldest  Hebrew  inscription  we  possess  (now  in 
Constantinople)  was  found  at  the  mouth  of  this  channel  in  the  rock.  It 
contains  a  brief  account  of  the  construction  of  this  channel,  1200  ells  long, 
and,  among  other  details,  mentions  that  the  workmen  began  the  boring 
from  both  ends.  In  consequence  of  this  most  important  discovery ,  the 
channel  was  again  examined,  and  the  spot  was  found  where  the  hoes  of 
the  diggers  met. 

The  Pool  of  Siloam  or  Siloah  (  Arab.  'Ain  Silwdn;  PI.  G,  II,  9) 
lies  a  little  farther  down  the  valley,  near  the  month  of  the  above- 
mentioned  channel,  and  was  in  antiquity  enclosed  within  the  city- 
wall  (Well  Gate,  sec  p.  31).  It  is  52  ft.  long  and  19  ft.  wide. 
Excavations  have  here  revealed  a  bath-house  and  the  remains  of  a 
basilica,  while  close  by,  to  the  N.W.,  have  been  discovered  parts  of 
the  old  wall,  a  flight  of  steps  cut  in  the  rock,  a  paved  street,  etc. 
The  bath  is,  perhaps,  of  the  Herodian  period;  the  basilica,  which  is 
first,  mentioned  in  570  A.D.,  commemorated  the  healing  of  the  man 
blind  from  his  birth  (Joint  ix.  7).  To  the  E.  of  the  upper  pool  lies 
the  Lower  Pool  of  Siloam  (ISirkct  el-Hamrd,  or  'the  red  pool'; 
prol.ibly  the  'king's  pool'  of  Nch.  ii.  14),  which  belongs  to  the  Greeks 
and  has  been  filled  up  by  them.  To  the  S.  of  the  large  pool  stands 
an  (Id  mulberry-tree,  enclosed  by  stones  for  its  protection,  and 
mentioned  for  the  first  time  in  the  16th  cent.,  where  the  prophet 
Isaii.lt  is  said  to  have  been  sawn  asunder  in  presence  of  King  Man- 
asse  i.  The  tradition  of  this  martyrdom  is  alluded  to  by  some  of  the 
fathers  of  the  church. 

.V  road  hence  leads  farther  down  the  valley,  reaching  in  a  few 
mitntes  the  junction  of  the  valleys  of  Jehoshaphat  and  Ilinnoin 
(36(  ft.  below  the  lFaram),  and  a  ruined  mosque  adjoined  by  the 
spring  called  Job's  Well  [Btr  Eyyub;  comp.  the  Map,  p.  72).  The 
well  is  125  ft.  deep  and  seldom  dries  up.  The  water  is  considered 
excellent.  The  water  sometimes  overflows  after  much  rain,  which  is 
considered  to  indicate  a  fruitful  year,  and  gives  occasion  for  a  general 
festi'ity. 

Ihe  name  is  derived  from  a  late  and  senseless  Muslim  legend.  An 
equally  valueless  tradition  arose  in  the  16th  cent,  to  the  effect  that  the 
holy  tire  was  concealed  in  this  well  during  the  captivity  and  was  redis- 
covers! by  Nehemiah.  Probably  we  are  here  standing  on  the  brink  of 
the  veil  oi'En-Rogel  ('fullers'  spring'),  mentioned  in  1  Kings  i.  9.  The 
modtrn  Ez-Zahweileh  has  of  late  been  supposed  identical  with  the  'stone, 
of  ZrieletK1,  but  the  fullers'  spring  would  then  have  to  be  placed  nearer 
the  fountain  of  the  Virgin,  the  question  cannot  be.  answered  until  it 
has  lien  settled  whether  .lob's  well  is  of  ancient  or  modern  date. 


84    Route  5. 


VALLEY  OF  ITTNNOM. 


Environs 


We  now  turn  to  the  W.  and  enter  the  Valley  of  Hinnom 
(p.  80:  Wddi  er-Rabdbi).  To  the  N.W.  rise  the  steep  slopes  of 
the  so-called  Suburb  of  Zion  (p.  70).  To  the  S.  is  Jebel  Abu  Tor, 
a  hill  also  called  by  the  Franks  the  Mount  of  Evil  Counsel,  according 
to  a  legend  of  the  14th  cent.,  to  the  effect  that  Caiaphas  possessed 
a  country-house  here,  where  he  consulted  with  the  Jews  how  he 
might  kill  Jesus.  [A  path  leads  to  the  top  from  Job's  Well,  but  it 
is  more  easily  ascended  from  the  Bethlehem  road.]  The  soil  is  well 
cultivated  at  places, though  plentifully  sprinkled  with  small  stones. 

The  slope  of  the  Jebel  Abu  Tor  is  honeycombed  with  rook- 
tombs,  the  low  entrances  of  which,  many  of  them  tastefully  orna- 
mented, are  approached  by  rock-hewn  steps.  The  tombs  invariably 
contain  a  number  of  vaults  for  different  families.  Some  of  them 
were  occupied  by  hermits  from  the  early  Christian  period  duv>  n  to 
the  middle  ages,  and  afterwards  by  poor  families  and  cattle.  The 
largest  is  the  so-called  — 

Apostles'  Cave,  in  which,  according  to  a  tradition  of  the 
16th  cent.,  the  apostles  concealed  themselves  during  the  Crucifixion. 
It  is  now  used  as  a  chapel  for  the  Greek  convent  adjoining  it. 

Above  the  entrance  is  a  frieze  of  which  eight  sections  have  been 
preserved.  The  fore-court  was  adorned  with  frescoes,  of  which  only  scanty 
traces  remain.  Beyond  the  chapel  itself  are  two  other  chambers,  the 
innermost  of  which  contains  several  shaft-graves  and  also  two  vaulted 
shelf-tombs,  which  are  pointed  out  as  the  tombs  of  Caiaphas  and  Annas. 

The  roof  of  the  convent  commands  a  beautiful  view  of  the 
junction  of  the  Hinnom  Valley  with  that  of  the  Kidron. 

Two  adjacent  burial-places  are  supposed  to  mark  Aceldama,  or 
the  Field  of  Blood,  mentioned  in  Matth.  xxvii.  8.  As  the  Bible 
does  not  inform  us  where  the  'field  of  blood'  lay,  various  other  sites 
have  also  beon  identified  with  it.  The  Creeks  connect  the  name 
with  the  large  burial-place  below  the  Apostles'  Cave  (see  ahove). 

Through  the  entrance-door,  the  lowest  stones  of  the  columns  of  which 
are  old,  we  enter  the  Vestibule.  A  door  adorned  with  mouldings  and  gable 
leads  hence  to  the  Main  Chamber  on  a  somewhat  lower  level.  The  ceiling 
of  this  chamber  is  vaulted  in  a  dome-like  manner.  On  each  side  it  is 
adjoined  by  a  smaller  chamber,  each  of  which  contains  two  vaulted  niche- 
tombs  with  human  bones  in  them.  Passages  in  the  rear  wall  lead  to  the 
right  and  left  to  other  Chambers  with  niche-tombs  in  the  walls.  The 
cliamber  to  the  left  also  contains  a  curious  grave  sunk  in  the  flojr  and 
reproducing  the  shape  of  the  human  body.  The  whole  arrangement  recalls 
that  of  the  Tombs  of  the  Kings  (p.  87). 

The  grave  which  Occidental  Christians  believe  to  be  the  site  of 
the  Field  of  Blood  (comp.  above)  lies  a  little  to  the  W.  and  farther 
up  the  valley.  It  was  visited  by  pilgrims  at  an  early  period,  and 
appears  in  a  map  of  the  13th  cent,  as  'carnelium'  (i.e.  clurnel- 
house).  The  Arabs  call  the  spot  El-Fcrdus  (Paradise).  The 
structure  is  formed  of  a  large  half-open  grotto,  walled  up  in  front 
and  roofed  over  with  masonry.  The  interior  may  be  entered  by  a 
gap  in  the  wall.  In  the  centre  is  a  massive  pillar  and  iu  the  rocky 
sides  are  shaft-tombs.    The  floor  is  covered  with  a  layer  of  bones 


of  Jerusalem. 


DAMASCUS  GATE. 


5.  Route.     85 


about  6  ft.  thick,  above  which  is  a  covering  layer  of  sand  and 
rubbish.  On  the  W.  wall  of  the  interior  are  crosses  and  Armenian 
inscriptions. 

A  little  farther  on  we  reach  the  Ophthalmic  Hospital  of  tho 
Knights  of  St.  John,  whence  we  may  return  to  the  Jaffa  Gate  by 
the  road  described  at  pp.  69-67. 


c.  N.  Side  of  the  City. 

The  Cotton  Orotto,  the  Grotto  of  Jeremiah-,  and  the  Tombs  of  the  Kings 
(p.  87)  may  be  reached  by  carriage,  but  the  Tombs  of  the  Judges  are  best 
approached  on  horseback.  The  key  to  the  Cotton  Grotto  must  he  procured 
(thT«ugh  the  dragoman  or  the  landlord  of  the  hotel)  from  the  Serai, 
wlie  nee.  a  guide  will  also  be  sent  (fee  6-9  pi.,  or  more  in  proportion  for  a 
party).    It  is  necessary  to  take  a  light  when  visiting  the  different  caverns. 

We  leave  the  town  by  the  Damascus  Gate  (Bub  el-'Amud; 
PI.  E,  3),  which  ranks  with  the  Jaffa  Gate  as  one  of  the  most  im- 
portant entrances  to  the  city.  According  to  the  inscription  it  was 
built,  or  at  least  restored,  by  Soliman  in  the  year  944  of  the  Hogira 
(beginning  10th  June,  1537)  and  is  a  flue  example  of  the  architecture 
of  the  16th  century.  It  consists  of  two  towers  between  which  is 
visible  the  upper  part  of  an  ancient  arch.  The  passage  between  the 
towers  forms  two  angles.  On  the  side  next  the  city  the  gateway  is 
enclosed  by  two  thin  columns,  above  which  is  a  pointed  pediment 
with  an  inscription.  The  battlements  are  surmounted  by  small 
tapering  columns.  Tho  Madcba  mosaic  map  (p.  29)  shows  that  in 
the  6th  cent,  there  was  an  open  space  within  the  gate  on  which  stood 
a  large  column.  It  is  to  this  column  that  the  Arabic  name,  'gate 
of  the  column',  refers.  The  tower  of  the  gate  commands  a  cel- 
ebrated view. 

Under  the  towers  there  still  exist  subterranean  chambers,  that  under 
the  E.  tower  being  built  of  large  blocks.  A  reservoir  and  a  fragment  of 
wall  (running  from  E.  to  W.)  constructed  of  drafted  blocks  have  also 
been  discovered  here.  Outside  the  gate  wo  can  still  clearly  see  on  our 
right  (E.)  ancient  courses  of  drafted  blocks  ;  when  the  gateway  was  rebuilt 
the  Turks  had  grooves  cut  in  the  blocks  to  make  them  look  more  modern. 
The  rushing  of  a  subterranean  water-course  is  said  to  have  been  frequently 
heard  below  the  Damascus  Gate,  and  it  is  not  improbable  that'one  may  exist 
here.    In  the  12th  cent,  the  gate  was  called  St.  Stephen's  Gate  (coinp.  p.  87). 

The  open  space  (PI.  E,  2)  in  front  of  the  Damascus  Gate  is  the 
point  where  four  roads  meet.  On  the  left  is  the  road  leaving  tho 
Jaffa  Road  at  the  Lloyd  Hotel,  which  skirts  the  city-wall  to  the  right 
(E.)  and  is  continued  to  the  upper  valley  of  theKidron.  The  road  to 
the  N.W.  leads  to  the  Jewish  colonies  to  the  N.  of  the  Jaffa  Suburb, 
and  the  road  to  tho  N.  is  the  road  to  Nabulus  (Shechem,  p.  215). 

In  the  rock  to  the  right  of  the  Kidron  Valley  road,  about  100  paces 
to  the  E.  of  the  Damascus  Gate,  and  19  ft.  below  the  wall,  is  the 
entrance  to  the  so-called  Cotton  Grotto  (PI.  P,2, 3),  rediscovered  in 
1852.  This  cavern  is  called  the  linen  grotto  (muyharat  el-kettdn) 
by  Muslim  authors,  and  it  corresponds  to  the  'royal  grottoes'  of 


mmmrn^ 


80 


Iloute  5. 


GKOTTOOF  JEREMIAH. 


Environs 


Joseph  us  (Hell.  Jud.  v.  4,  2).     It  is  an  extensive  subterranean 

quarry,  stretching;  214  yards  in  a  straight  line  below  the  level  of 
the  city,  and  sloping  considerably  down  towards  the  S.  On  the  .-ides 

are  still  seen  niches  for  the 
lamps  of  the  qnarryincn. 
The  rocky  roof  is  supported 
by  huge  pillars.  Theblooks 
were  separated  from  the  rook 
by  means  Qf  wooden  wed  ges, 
which  were  driven  in  and 
wetted  so  as  to  cause  them 
to  swell;  and  traces  of  this 
mode,  of  working  the  quarry 
are  still  distinguishable. 
Wo  possess  no  clue  as  to  the 
period  when  the  quarry  was 
used.  On  one  of  the  walls 
was  a  kind  of  cherub  in  tho 
Assyrian  style  (a  four-footed 
i:sooo  i.  i.^ii  i  ,v>  v....^°,°  Mutres  being  with  a  human  head), 
which  is  now  in  the  Louvre.  There  is  a  trickling  spring  on  tho 
right  side. 

Opposite  the  Cotton  Grotto,  and  a  little  to  the  N.  of  tho  road,  is 
the  so-called  Grotto  of  Jeremiah  (el-Edhemhjeh ;  PI.  F.  2;  fee  6  pi.). 
This  was  probably  also  an  old  quarry  originally  connected  with  the 
Cotton  Grotto  and  afterwards  separated  from  it  by  the  removal  of 
the  intervening  rock  in  order  to  increase  the  strength  of  the  forti- 
fications. Wo  first  enter  a  small  garden,  in  which  fragments  of 
columns  are  scattered  about.  Passing  through  a  place  of  prayer  wo 
are  conducted  into  a  cavern  towards  the  E.,  and  then  into  a  second, 
circular  in  shape,  about  40  paces  long  and  35  wide,  and  supported 
by  a  pillar  in  the  centre.  To  the  S.W.  we  are  shown  the  tomb  of 
the  Sultan  Ibrahim,  and  beyond  it  a  lofty  rock-shelf,  witli  a  tomb, 
which  since  the  15th  cent,  has  been  called  the  tomb  of  Jeremiah. 
The  prophet  is  said  to  have  written  his  Lamentations  here.  These, 
caverns  were  once  inhabited  by  Muslim  santons  or  monks.  In  the 
S.E.  angle  of  the  court  there  are  an  entrance  and  a  descent  of  7  steps 
to  a  vault  borne  by  a  short,  thick  column,  beyond  which  a  passage 
like  a  door  leads  to  the  N.  We  And  hero  a  large  and  handsome, 
cistern,  with  its  roof  supported  by  a  massive  pillar,  and  lighted  from 
above.   Steps  lead  down  to  the  surface  of  tho  water. 

"We  return  to  the  Damascus  Gate  and  take  the  Xabulus  lioad 
(p.  85),  which  leads  to  the  N.  —  The  first  side-road  to  the  right 
leads  in  a  few  steps  to  a  garden  containing  a  niche-tomb  (p.  xciv) 
hewn  in  the  rock.  Some  English  authorities,  including  General 
Gordon,   who  visited  Jerusalem  in  1882,   three  years  before  his 


of  Jerusalem.  TOMBS  OF  Til E  KINGS. 


Tloute.     &• 


dca  tli  at  Khartum,  regard  the  hill  immediately  above  the  Grotto  of 
Jeremiah  as  the  true  Golgotha,  and  helieve  this  niche-tomb  to  he 
the   Grave  of  Jesus  (PI.  E,  1 ;  adm.  1/2  fr.). 

Adja'C6ht  is  the  large  Dominican  Monastery  (Convent  des  Domini- 
cains  de  St.  F.tienne;  PL  E,  1),  with  which  the  school  mentioned  at 
p.  21  is  connected.  Its  grounds  contain  several  rocky  tombs  similar 
to  those  just  described,  and  two  churches  erected  over  the  remains 
of  two  older  Churches  of  St.  Stephen.  It  is  not  known  at  what  date 
the  site  of  the  stoning  of  St.  Stephen  was  transferred  by  tradition 
to  this  spot  (comp.  pp.  48,  71,  73).  In  460  the  Empress  Eudoxia 
built  a  large  church  in  honour  of  St.  Stephen  to  the  N.  of  the  city, 
but  this  appears  to  have  been  destroyed  when  the  Arabs  besieged 
Jerusalem  in  637  (p.  29).  About  the  8th  cent,  a  humbler  church 
and  a  monastery,  dedicated  to  the  same  saint,  were  raised  here  by  the 
Greeks.  The  Crusaders  found  this  church  in  ruins  and  restored  it,  but 
it  was  again  pulled  down  by  Saladin  during  the  siege  of  1187  (p.  30). 
The  easternmost  of  the  two  present  churches  occupies  the  site  of  the 
basilica  of  Eudoxia.  Mosaicpavemeuts,  the  altar- slab,  and  fragments 
of  columns  were  discovered,  and  the  positions  of  the  apse,  the 
columns,  and  the  aisles  were  quite  distinct.  Beneath  is  a  spacious 
crypt.  The  church  has  been  rebuilt  on  the  old  plan.  —  The  smaller 
church  to  the  W.  stands  on  the  ruins  of  the  Crusaders'  Church,  which 
was  partly  built  with  the  ruins  of  the  basilica. 

Beyond  the  Dominican  Monastery  the  road  forks.  The  branch  to 
the  left  leads  to  the  Tombs  of  the  Judges  (p.  89)  and  En-Nebi 
Samwil  (p.  96).  We  follow  the  right  branch  (to  Nabulus  and  the 
Mt.  of  Olives,  see  p.  76)  and  beyond  the  House  of  the  English  Bishop 
(p.  21)  take  the  cross-road  to  the  right.  A  few  more  paces  bring 
us  to  the  so-called  — 

Tombs  of  the  Kings  (Arab.  Kubur  es-Saldtln;  fee  to  the  custo- 
dian 5  pi.,  more  for  a  party).  A  rock-hewn  staircase  of  24  steps,  9  yds. 
wide,  leads  down  into  the  tombs  in  an  E.  direction.  We  here  observe 
channels  cut  in  the  rock  for  conducting  water  to  the  cisterns  below; 
these  cross  the  staircase  at  the  10th  and  20th  steps  and  lead  down 
beside  the  wall  to  the  right.  At  the  foot  of  the  staircase  we  observe 
the  beautiful  cisterns,  which  have  now  been  repaired ;  the  smaller 
is  on  the  right;  straight  before  us  is  a  much  larger  one,  with  a  double- 
arched  entrance  in  the  wall  of  the  rock.  The  roof  is  slightly  vaulted 
and  supported  by  a  pillar.  At  the  corners  of  each  cistern  are  steps 
for  drawing  water.  On  the  left  is  a  round-arched  passage  which  leads 
hence  through  a  rocky  wall,  41/2  ft-  thick,  down  three  steps  into  an 
open  court  hewn  in  the  rock  at  a  depth  of  about  26  ft.,  30  yds.  long 
and  27  yds.  wide.  To  the  W.  we  perceive  the  richly  hewn  portal  of 
the  rock-tombs.  The  portal  has  been  widened  to  39  ft.;  like  that  of 
St.  James's  Grotto  (p.  81),  it  was  formerly  borne  by  two  columns, 
which  relieved  the  open  space.  Some  of  the  mouldings  of  the  portal 
are  .still  in  admirable  preservation,  consisting  of  a  broad  girdle  of 


88    Route  5. 


TOMBS  OF  THE  KINGS. 


Environs 


wreaths,  fruit,  and  foliage.  In  the  vestibule  (1)  are  fragments  of 
columns,  capitals,  and  fragments  of  sarcophagi.  We  cross  over  a  round 
cistern  (k)  and  descend  a  few  steps;  on  our  left  is  an  angular  passage 
(b)  with  a  movable  rolling  stone  (c)  by  which  the  entrance  to  the 


snim 


jap      -^ 


tomb  could  be  closed  (said  to  be  one  of  the  only  two  sepulchre-doors 
of  this  kind  still  intact;  see  Matth.  xxviii.  2;  Mark  xvi.  3,4; 
Lukexxiv.  2).  The  chamber  (a)  is  about  G'^yds.  square,  and  from 
it  four  entrances,  two  to  the  S.,  one  to  the  W.,  and  one  to  the  N.,  lead 
to  tomb-chambers.  The  S.E.  chamber  (d)  contains  rock -shelves  on 
three  sides,  and  shaft-tombs  (p.  xciv)  on  the  E.  and  S.  In  the  N.W. 
angle  we  descend  by  4  steps  into  a  lower  chamber  (d")  with  3  shelf- 
tombs.  The  second  chamber  (e~)  has  a  depression  in  the  middle, 
three  shaft-tombs  on  the  S. ,  and  three  on  theW.;  this  chamber 
also  has  a  subsidiary  chamber  (f),  and  on  the  ground  lie  fragments 
of  the  lid  of  a  handsome  sarcophagus.  The  chamber  (g)  to  the  W.  of 
the  vestibule  contains  two  shaft-tombs  on  the  right  and  on  the  left, 
in  addition  to  the  shelves  in  the  walls.  In  the  middle  is  a  passage 
leading  to  a  small  chamber  with  3  shelf-tombs.  From  this  chamber 
in  the  N.  wall  a  passage  leads  farther  down  to  a  larger  apartment  (h), 
In  which  are  a  vaulted  shelf-tomb  on  the  left,  and  a  double  shelf 
at  the  back.  The  chamber  (i)  to  the  right  of  the  principal  entrance 
once  contained  a.  richly  decorated  sarcophagus  (now  in  the  Louvre). 
The  different  chambers  bear  distinct  traces  of  having  once  been 
closed  by  properly  fitted  stone  doors. 

These  catacombs  are  revered  by  the  Jews,  who  from  a  very  early 
period  have  called  them  the  Cavern  of  Zedekiah,  or  the  Tomb  of  the  rich 
Kalba  Salma,  a  noble  who  lived  at  the  time  of  the  Roman  siege.  It  is 
must  probable,  however,  that  this  is  the  tomb  of  Queen  Helena  of  Adiabene, 
which,  according  to  Joseuhus  (Ant.  xx.  4,  3j,  was  situated  here.     This 


of  Jerusalem.       TOMBS  OF  THE  JUDGES.         5.  Route.     89 

que-.en.  with  her  son  Izates,  became  converted  to  Judaism  and  for  some 
timie  resided  at  Jerusalem,  where  she  had  a  palace.  Helena  and  Izates 
were  buried  in  a  handsome  tomb  with  three  pyramids,  situated  three 
stadlia  from  Jerusalem,  which  was  so  famous  that  Pausanias  compares  it 
witlh  the  tomb  of  Mausolus.  Izates  had  twenty-four  sons,  and  hence  the 
ex  teen  t  of  the  tomb.  A  sarcophagus,  found  by  l)e  Saulcy,  bore  an  Aramaic 
inscription  (in  which  the  name  of  Quern  Zaddo  occurs l  in  Syriac  and 
Hefcrew  characters,  a  proof  that  this  Jewish  queen  belonged  to  a  Syrian 
roy;al  family,  viz.  that  of  Adiabene.  These  vaults  were  understood  to  be 
torn  lis  as  early  as  the  14th  cent.,  and  they  were  sometimes  referred  by 
tradition  to  the  early  kings  of  Judah,  whence  they  are  still  called  'tombs 
of  the  kings1  (comp.  p.  71). 

The  Tombs  of  the  Judges  lie  about  35  min.  from  the  Damascus 
Gate,  on  the  road  to  En-Nebi  Samwil  (comp.  p.  87),  which  skirts 
the  so-called  'Hill  of  Ashes'  and  is  joined  by  the  road  from  the  Jafla 
Suburb  (Church  of  St.  Paul,  pp.  68,  69).  They  are  reached  from  the 
Tornbs  of  the  Kings  by  following  the  cross-road  diverging  to  the  N.W. 
from  the  Nabulus  road  and  keeping  the  direction  of  the  conspicuous 
minaret  of  En-Nebi  Samwil. 

I.  Tombs  on  level  of  ground.  II.  Basement.  III.  Upper  series  of  tombs. 


The  myth  that  the  Judges  of  Israel  are  buried  in  the  so-called 
Tombs  of  the  Judges  (Kubur  el-Kudat)  is  of  comparatively  modern 
origin.  They  have  also  been  called  Tombs  of  the  Prophets  (Kubur 
el-Anbiyd).  Other  authorities  assign  them  to  members  of  a  later 
Jewish  court  of  justice.  The  entrance  is  in  the  rocks  to  the  right  of 
the  road.  A  fore-court,  til/->-7  ft.  wide,  has  been  hewn  in  the  rock; 
the  vestibule  is  13  ft.  wide,  open  in  front,  and  provided  with  a 
gable.  In  the  pediment  is  a  ring  from  which  pointed  leaves  extend 
in  the  form  of  rays.  There  is  also  a  pediment  over  the  portal  lead- 
ing into  the  tomb-chamber.  The  portal  was  once  capable  of  being 
closed  from  within.  The  S.E.  and  N.W.  corners  of  the  lirst  tomb- 
chaniber  are  imbedded  in  rubbish.  On  the  left  (N.)  side  of  it  are 
seven  shaft-tombs,  above  which,  at  irregular  distances,  are  three 
vaulted  shelf-tombs  (PI.  Ill);  and  at  the  back  of  these  there  are 
two  other  shaft-tombs.  In  the  W.  wall  is  a  niche.  Adjoining  this 
first  chamber  on  the  E.  and  S.  (PI.  1)  are  two  others  on  about  the 
same  level,  and  two  on  a  lower  level  (PI.  II).   On  each  of  three  sides 


HH 


90     Route  5. 


TOMBS  OF  THE  JUDGES. 


of  the  E.  chamber  are  three  shaft-tombs  on  a  level  with  the  ground 
(PI.  I),  and  3  ft.  above  these  (PI.  Ill)  are  four  more  of  the  same 
kind.  The  S.  chamber  has  on  each  of  three  sides  three  shaft-tombs, 
and  above  these  a  long  vaulted  shelf-tomb.  From  the  first  chamber 
a  passage,  with  three  shaft-tombs,  descends  to  the  N.E.  chamber, 
which  contains  five  shaft-tombs  on  the  N.,  five  on  the  S.,  and  three 
on  the  E.  side.  The  subterranean  side-chamber  to  the  S.W.  was 
originally  a  quarry. 

There  are  other  rock-tombs  in  the  vicinity,  but  none  of  so  great  extent. 
There  is,  however,  an  interesting  tomb  about  5  min.  to  the  N.E.  of  the 
Tombs  of  the  Judges,  and  about  5  min.  to  the  E.  of  them  is  an  admirably 
preserved  wine-press  with  a  cistern. 


II.  JUDiEA,  THE  COUNTRY  EAST  OF  THE  JORDAN, 
SOUTHERN  PALESTINE,  AND  THE  PENINSULA  OF  SINAI. 


Route  Page 

6.  From  Jerusalem  to  the  Monastery  of  the  Cross,  Philip's 
Well,  and  Bittir 92 

7.  From  Jerusalem  to  cAin  Kariui 93 

From  'Ain  Karim  to  Philip's  Well 95 

8.  From  Jerusalem  to  En-Nebi  Samwil  and  El-Kubeibeh 
(Emmaus) 95 

From  El-Kubeibeh  to  Jerusalem  via  El-Jib 97 

9.  From  Jerusalem  to  'Anata,  'Ain  Fara,  Jeba',  and  Makhmas     97 

From  Makhmas  to  Beitin  via  Ueir  Diwiui 98 

10.  From  Jerusalem  to  Bethlehem 99 

11.  From  Jerusalem  to  the  Pools  of  Solomon  and  the  Frank 
Mountain 108 

Frum  Artas  to  Bethlehem  110;   to  Tekoah  11U. 

12.  From  Jerusalem  to  Hebron Ill 

13.  From  Hebron  to  Beit  Jibrin  and  Gaza 116 

From  Jerusalem  to  Beit  Jibrin  direct 116 

From  Gaza  to  El-rArish 121 

14.  From  Gaza  to  Jerusalem  via  Ascalon 121 

From  Ascalon  to  Jaffa 122 

15.  From  Jerusalem  to  Jericho,  the  Jordan,  and  the  Dead  Sea  125 

From  Jericho  to  Beisan 129 

From  the  Dead  Sea  back  to  Jerusalem  via  the  Monastery 

of  Mar  Saba. 133 

From  Mar  Saba  to  Bethlehem 135 

16.  From  Jericho  to  Es-Salt  and  Jerash 136 

17.  From  Jerash  to  El-Kerak  via  'Amman  and  Madeba  .    .    142 

1.  From  Jerash  to  'Amman 142 

2.  From  'Amman  to  'Arak  el-Emir 144 

3.  From  'Amman  to  Hesban  and  Madeba 146 

4.  From   Madeba    to   El-Kerak    (Ma'in,    Callirrhoe", 
Mukaur,  'Attarus) .   148 

18.  From  Damascus  to  El-Ma'an  (Hejaz  Railway)  ....    151 

19.  The  Hauran * 154 

1.  From  Damascus  to  Der'at  (Hejaz  Railway),  see  R.  18. 

2.  From  Damascus  to  El-Muzeirib 156 

a.  By  the  Hauran  Railway 156 

b.  By  the  Pilgrim  Route  (Derb  el-Hajj) 157 

3.  From  Jerash  to  Der'at  (El-Muzeirib) 158 

4.  From  Tiberias  to  Der'at  (El-Muzeirib)  via  Irbid.    .    159 

5.  From  Tiberias  to  Der'at  (El-Muzeirib)  via  Mukeis  .    169 

6.  From  Der'at  (El-Muzeirib)  to  Bosra 160 

7.  From  Bosra  to  Damascus 164 

From  Bosra  to  Es-Suweida  via  Hebran 164 

From  El-Kanawat  to  Sei'   ..." 166 

From  Shu'hba  to  Burak  via  Shakka 167 

Bi.EDEKBK's  Palestine  and  Syria.    4th  Edit.  6 


92     Route  G.       MONASTERY  OF  THE  CROSS. 


Route  Page 

20.  The  Desert  of  Judah  to  the  S.  W.  of  the  Dead  Sea    .    .  169 

From  Gaza  to  Beersheba.     From  Beersheba  to  Hebron  .  169 

From  Bethlehem  to  Engedi 169 

From  Hebron  to  Engedi 170 

From  Engedi  to  JIasada 170 

From  JIasada  to  Jebel  Usdum  and  El-Kerak       ....  172 

21.  Petra •    •-..• 174 

From  Jerusalem   to   Petra   via  El-Ma'an   and  the  Hejaz. 
Railway  174;  via  the  Jebel  Usdum  174;  via,  El-Kerak  175. 

22.  The  Peninsula  of  Sinai 184 

1.  From  Suez  to  Mt.  Sinai  via  Maghara  and  Wadi  Firan  186 

2.  From  Suez  by  Sea  to  Tur,  and  thence  to  Mt.  Sinai.  195 

3.  Monastery  of  St.  Catharine  on  Mt.  Sinai  and  its  En- 
virons    198 

4.  Return  Route  from  the  Monastery  of  Sinai  to  Suez 

via  the  Wadi  esh-Sheikh 206 

5.  From  Mt.  Sinai  to  'Akaba  and  El-Ma'an 209 


6.    From  Jerusalem  to  the  Monastery  of  the  Cross, 
Philip's  Well,  and  Bittir. 

2'/4  hrs.  From  Jerusalem  to  the  Monaster!/  of  the  Cross  20  min. ;  thence 
to  the  Philip's  Well  l'/sAr.,  and  thence  to  Bittir  25  minutes.  Horses  and 
donkeys,  see  p.  19.  From  Bittir  the  return  may  be  made  by  railway 
(afternoon). 

The  road  leads  from  the  Jaffa  Gate  to  the  Muslim  burial-ground 
■which  contains  the  Birlcet  Mamilla  (p.  68).  It  then  ascends  parallel 
with  the  cemetery-wall,  passing  an  ancient  windmill,  beyond  which 
it  descends  into  the  valley  containing  the  Greek  Monastery  of  the 
Cross  (Arab.  Deir  el-Musallabeh ;  see  Map,  p.  72). 

Monastery  of  the  Cross.  —  History.  The  foundation  of  the  mon- 
astery is  attributed  to  the  Empress  Helena;  according  to  another  tradi- 
tion it  was  founded  by  Mirian  (265-342),  first  Christian  ruler  of  Georgia, 
one  of  the  three  kings  depicted  over  the  inner  portal  of  the  church.  It  is 
at  any  rate  certain  that  it  was  founded  before  the  introduction  of  Islam. 
It  was  rebuilt  in  the  middle  of  the  11th  century.  At  the  period  of  the 
Crusades  the  monastery  was  the  property  of  the  Georgians  (Grusinians), 
from  whom,  however,  it  was  taken  by  Beibars  (l'260-77)  and  fitted  up  as 
a  mosque.  The  Georgians  recovered  it  in  1305  and  it  was  restored  in 
1644  by  Leontatian,  one  of  their  kings.  The  monastery  at  a  later  date 
became,  like  the  other  Georgian  monasteries,  loaded  with  debt.  It  has 
suffered  much  from  the  hands  of  the  Arabs,  who  plundered  it  and  murdered 
the  monks  more  than  once,  as  evidenced  by  the  traces  of  a  great  pool  of 
blood  in  the  nave.  Hence,  too,  the  high  wall  without  windows  and  tin  iron- 
mounted  wicket,  which  is  characteristic  of  the  older  Oriental  monasieries. 

The  monastery  is  of  irregular  quadrangular  form.  Its  buil  lings 
embrace  several  large  and  hregulai  courts,  and  are  fitted  up  partly 
In  the  European  style.  The  Church,  consisting  of  nave  and  aisles, 
dates  from  the  Byzantine  period.  The  dome  is  borne  by  four  large 
pillars,  and  the  vaulting  and  arches  are  pointed.  The  paintings  on 
the  walls,  some  of  them  of  a  rude  character,  were  retouched  in  1643. 


< 


\     ( < 


PHILIP'S  WELL. 


6.  Route. 


93 


Thte  interesting  mosaic  pavement  is  of  considerably  higher  antiquity. 
Thte  principal  shrine  of  the  monastery  is  behind  the  high-altar,  where 
a  nound  aperture,  lined  with  marble,  marks  the  spot  where  the  tree 
froim  which  Christ's  cross  was  formed  is  said  to  have  grown.  This 
tradition  gives  the  monastery  its  name,  which  is  more  properly  the 
'rmonastery  of  the  place  of  the  cross'.  The  tradition  is  probably  very 
ancient,  although  not  traceable  farther  back  than  the  Crusades,  and 
newer  entirely  recognized  by  the  Latins.  Among  later  myths  may 
be  mentioned  that  of  Adam  being  buried,  and  that  of  Lot  having 
li v  Lid  here.  Connected  with  the  monastery  is  a  large  seminary  for 
priests.  The  library  is  now  incorporated  with  the  Patriarchal  Library 
at  Jerusalem  (p.  22). 

The  road  from  the  Monastery  of  the  Cross  to  Philip's  Well  de- 
si'tiiils  the  little  valley  of  the  monastery  to  its  junction  with  the 
W.uli  'Ammdr,  which  in  turn  leads  us  down  to  the  C/2  hr. )  Wddi 
el-Werd,  or  'Valley  of  Roses'.  Through  this  last  valley  run  the 
railway  to  Jaffa  and  the  old  caravan-route  to  Gaza.  We  ride  down 
the.  valley  alongside  the  railway.  In  l/^  hr.  we  observe,  to  the  right, 
El-Mdliha,  and  among  the  rocks  above  us,  to  the  left,  Esh-Sherdfdt. 
We  cross  the  railway,  and  12  mill,  farther  on  we  reach  the  village 
of"  .Ain  Ydlo,  anciently  Ajalon  (but  not  the  Ajalon  mentioned  in  Josh, 
x.  12).  By  the  spring  are  several  remains  of  marble  columns.  To 
the,  N.  of  'Ain  Yalo  are  some  remarkable  artificial  hills  (rujum).  In 
5  min.  more  the  Wddi  Ahmed  opens  on  the  left,  which  brings  us  in 
V4  hr.  to  — 

Philip's  Well  ('Ain  el-Haruyeh).  The  spring  bubbles  forth  from 
beneath  a  niche  in  the  wall,  with  Corinthian  columns  on  each  side. 
At  the  back  is  a  small  pointed  window,  now  walled  up.  The  build- 
ing is  a  ruin;  remains  of  columns  and  hewn  stones  still  lie  scattered 
about.  The  tradition  that  rAin  el-Haniyeh  was  the  spring  in  which 
Philip  baptized  the  Eunuch  of  Ethiopia  (Acts  viii.  36)  dates  from 
1483,  before  which  the  scene  of  that  event  was  placed  near  Hebron 
(p.  112). 

From  Philip's  Well  to  Bittir  the  road  descends  the  Wddi  el-  Werd, 
After  20  min.  the  village  of  EL-Welejeh,  with  its  vineyards  and 
nursery-gardens,  lies  on  our  right.  A  few  minutes  beyond  the  spot 
where  the  Valley  of  Roses  enters  the  Wddi  Bittir  lies  the  village  of 
Bittir  (p.  14). 

From  Kittir  to  'Ain  Kdrim  via  El-Welejeh,  l'A  hr. 

From  Bittir  to  Bethlehem,  l3/4  hr. 


7.  From  Jerusalem  to  £Ain  Karim. 

■1  M.    Carriage  (p.  19)  in  1  hr. ;  there  and  back  x\-i  day. 

We  follow  the  Jaffa  road  as  far  as  the  Jewish  lunatic-asylum 
(p.  18).  Here  our  road  diverges  to  the  8.W.  (left)  and  follows 
tli-:  verge  of  the  ridge.    To  the  right  we  soon  see  the  village  of 

G* 


rAIN  KARIM. 


From  Jerusalem 


Deir  Ydsin,  with  its  garden.  From  the  top  of  the  hill  the  carriage- 
road  leads  in  great  windings  down  to  'Ain  Karirn.  During  the 
descent  we  have  a  beautiful  view  of  the  village;  below  us,  the 
Franciscan  monastery  and  church,  with  the  village  behind  ;  a  little 
to  the  right,  on  an  eminence,  is  the  large  establishment  of  the  Sisters 
of  Zion:  convent,  girls'  school,  and  girls'  educational  institution 
(founded  by  Father  Ratisbonne).  On  the  hill  to  the  left  (S.  of  the  vil- 
lage) are  the  Russian  buildings  and  a  Latin  chapel;  below  in  the  val- 
ley, between  this  hill  and  the  village,  is  the  beautiful  St.  Mary's  Well. 

rAin  Karim  (St.  John)  is  much  visited  by  Greek  and  Latin  pil- 
grims. The  village  contains  about  2500  inhab.,  of  whom  350  are 
Latins,  50  Greeks,  and  the  rest  Muslims. 

'Ain  Karim  is  probably  the  Karem  of  the  Septuagint  (Josh.  xv.  60). 
The  tradition  which  assigns  to  this  spot  the  birthplace  of  John  the  Baptist 
(Luke  i.  39)  is  of  no  great  antiquity.  Before  the  time  of  the  Crusades  there 
was  much  uncertainty  as  to  the  site,  old  ecclesiastical  writers  mentioning 
Machterus  (Mukaur,  p.  149),  Bethlehem,  Hebron,  and  Jerusalem.  In  the 
4th  cent,  we  hear  of  a  church  of  Zacharias  in  the  environs  of  Jerusalem, 
and  in  the  6th  cent,  the  birthplace  of  the  Baptist  was  described  as  lying 
five  Roman  miles  distant  from  that  city.  In  the  9th  cent.  'Mount  Carnu'l1 
(('.  e.  Karim)  is  mentioned  for  the  first  time  in  this  connection,  and  this 
identification  has  prevailed  since  the  time  of  the  Crusades.  The  tradition, 
however,  remains  uncertain  as  regards  such  details  as  the  exact  birthplace 
and  the  spot  where  the  Virgin  visited  Elizabeth  (see  below). 

The  castellated  Latin  Monastery  of  St.  John  belongs  to  the 
Franciscans.  Travellers  can  be  accommodated  on  bringing  letters  of 
recommendation  from  the  secretary  of  the  Salvator  monastery  in 
Jerusalem.  The  dome-covered  Church  of  St.  John,  which  is  enclosed 
by  the  monastery  on  three  sides,  peers  prettily  above  the  walls.  It 
consists  of  nave  and  aisles;  the  elegant  dome  is  borne  by  four  pillars. 
The  high-altar  is  dedicated  to  Zacharias,  and  the  S.  chapel  to  the 
memory  of  the  Virgin's  visit  to  Elizabeth.  Adjoining  the  organ  is  a 
picture  representing  the  Baptist  in  the  desert,  copied  from  Murillo. 
On  the  left  (N.)  of  the  altar  seven  steps  descend  to  a  Crypt,  the 
alleged  birthplace  of  the  Baptist,  where  five  bas-reliefs  in  white 
marble,  representing  scenes  from  his  life,  are  let  into  the  black 
walls.  A  grotto  in  front  of  the  entrance  to  the  church  contains  a 
fine  mosaic  (6th  cent.?),  with  an  inscription  ('Greeting,  oh  ye  mar- 
tyrs in  the  Lord!');  adjoining  are  two  rock-tombs. 

According  to  tradition  this  is  the  spot  on  which  stood  the  house  of 
Zacharias,  John  the  Baptist's  father.  —  After  this  church  had  long  been 
used  by  the  Arabs  as  a  stable,  the  Marquis  de  Nointel,  ambassador  of 
Louis  XIV.,  prevailed  upon  the  Sultan  to  restore  it  to  the  Franciscans ; 
and  these  indefatigable  monks  rebuilt  the  monastery,  and  purged  md 
restored  the  church.  The  older  part  of  the  building  is  probably  earlier 
than  the  Crusaders'  period. 

Following  the  carriage-road,  we  reach  (4  mm.)  the  Spring  of  Ain 
Karim,  which  was  associated  in  the  14th  cent,  with  the  supposed  visit 
of  the  Virgin  and  called  St.  Mary's  Well.  Over  the  spring  is  a  mosque 
with  a  minaret.  —  A  road  leads  front  the  spring  towards  the  W. 
along  the  slope  of  the  S.  hill,  which  belongs  to  the  Russians.    Here 


to  'Ain  Kdrim. 


rAIN  EL-HABIS. 


7.  Route.    95 


are  numerous  houses  with  pretty  gardens,  occupied  by  nuns,  a 
Russian  Church  of  St.  John,  and  a  bell-tower.  —  A  little  higher 
up  (ca.  5  min.  from  the  spring)  stands  the  chapel  of  Mdr  Zakaryd, 
marking  the  alleged  site  of  the  summer-dwelling  of  Zacharias,  where 
the  Virgin  visited  Elizabeth  (Luke  i.  39).  In  the  right  wall  of  the 
chapel  is  shown  a  piece  of  the  stone  which  yielded  when  Elizabeth, 
during  her  flight  from  Herod,  laid  the  infant  John  on  it.  Beside 
the  chapel  are  a  Franciscan  monastery  and  a  tower  commanding  a 
good  view. 

As  early  as  the  6th  cent,  a  convent  and  a  church  of  two  stories  stood 
here.  The  apse  of  the  upper  church  is  still  to  be  seen,  and  other  frag- 
ments of  masonry  also  still  exist.  In  the  15th  cent,  the  site  belonged  to 
the  Armenians,  but  it  was  purchased  by  the  Franciscans  in  1679. 

Following  the  road  leading  W.  from  the  spring  to  the  W&di  Beit 
Hanina  or  Wadi  Kaloniyeh  (p.  17),  we  reach  in  1  hr.  the  spring 
rAin  el-Habis.  The  Grotto  of  St.  John,  to  which  steps  hewn  in  the 
rock  ascend,  lies  close  to  the  spring.  It  belongs  to  the  Latins.  On 
the  side  next  the  valley  there  are  two  apertures  in  the  wall  of  rock, 
leading  to  a  kind  of  balcony,  whence  we  survey  the  Wadi  Sataf 
and  the  village  of  Suba.  The  place  is  called  by  the  Christians  the 
Wilderness  of  St.  John,  although  it  is  now  well  planted ,  and  was 
cultivated  in  ancient  times  also,  if  we  may  judge  from  the  traces 
of  garden-terraces. 

Since  the  end  of  the  12th  cent,  tradition  has  here  placed  the  'wilderness' 
in  which  the  Baptist  dwelt.  The  altar  in  the  grotto  is  said  to  stand  on 
the  spot  where  he  slept  (Luke  i.  80).  At  the  same  period  a  church  and 
convent  stood  here,  the  ruins  of  which  are  still  extant.  From  other  pas- 
sages, however  (Luke  iii.  3,  etc.),  it  is  obvious  that  by  the  'wilderness  of 
Judsea1  (Matth.  iii.  1)  the  region  near  Jordan  is  meant. 

From  'Ain  Karim  to  Philip's  Well  (H/4  hr.).  We  ride  for  some  dis- 
tance along  the  Jerusalem  road.  At  the  point  where  this  bears  to  the 
left  we  leave  it  and  ascend  the  side  of  a  narrow  valley  towards  the  S.E. 
Halfway  up  we  leave  on  our  left  the  path  which  leads  by  Mdliha  and  keep 
to  the  right  (S.E.)  After  '/a  hr.  we  arrive  at  the  top,  which  commands  a 
splendid  view.  Continuing  in  the  same  direction,  we  descend  a  small 
dale,  and  arrive  in  i/z  hr.  at  the  Wddi  el-Werd.  Thence  we  descend  the 
valley  to  (l/i  hr.)  Philip's  Well  (p.  93). 


8.  From  Jerusalem  to  En-Nebi  Samwil  and  El-Kubeibeh 
(Emmaus). 

2>/ghr8.  From  Jerusalem  to  En-Nebi  Samwil  l3/4hr.,  thence  to  El- 
Kubeibeh  3/4  hr.  Horses,  see  p.  19.  —  The  View  from  En-Nebi  Samwil, 
the  highest  mountain  near  Jerusalem,  is  worth  seeing.  The  Crusaders 
called  the  mountain  Mons  Gaudii,  or  Mountain  of  Joy,  because  it  was 
their  first  halting-point  that  commanded  a  view  of  Jerusalem. 

From  Jerusalem  to  the  Tombs  of  the  Judges  (about  35  min.), 
see  p.  89.  The  road  descends  steeply  into  the  valley  (8  min.). 
Following  the  downward  course  of  the  valley,  we  arrive  in  13  min. 
at  the  Wddi  Beit  Harilnd,  deriving  its  name  from  the  village  of  Beit 
Hariind  (Ananiah,  Neh.  xi.  32),  on  the  spur  rising  between  the  two 


96     Route  8. 


EL-Kl'BEIBEH. 


valleys  which  unite  here.  Wc  now  cross  the  wide  bed  of  the  brook, 
which  is  full  of  boulders,  and  ascend  to  the  N.W.  in  the  side-valley 
which  opens  exactly  opposite.  After  25  min.  we  reach  a  small  plain; 
to  the  left,  on  the  crest  of  the  hill,  is  the  ruin  of  Khirbet  el-JozT  or 
Khirbet  cl-Burj,  dating  from  the  Crusaders'  period,  and  supposed  in 
the  middle  ages  to  have  been  the  chateau  of  Joseph  of  Arimathea. 
The  village  of  En-Nebi  Samwll  is  reached  in  20  min.  more.  Before 
we  enter  it  we  see,  on  the  right  of  the  road,  two  reservoirs  hewn  in 
the  rock;  the  spring  which  supplies  them  is  more  to  the  north. 

The  village  of  En-Nebi  Samwll,  5  min.  below  the  summit  of 
thi'  mountain  of  that  name  (2935  ft.),  consists  of  a  few  houses  and  of 
a  Mosque  which  contains  the  traditional  tomb  of  the  Prophet  Samuel 
('En-Nebi  SamwiP),  revered  alike  by  Jews,  Christians,  and  Muslims. 
The  tomb  is  shown  Teluctantly,  but  the  traveller  loses  little  if  lie 
fails  to  see  it.  He  should  not,  however,  fail  to  ascend  the  Minaret 
for  the  sake  of  the  magnificent  *View  (fee  1  fr.  each  person).  To  the 
right,  to  the  N.  of  El-Jib,  rises  the  hill  of  Kamallah  (p.  212) ;  in  front 
of  it,  below,  lies  the  village  of  Bir  Nebala;  to  the  E.,Beit  Hanina;  and 
farther  E.,  the  hill  of  Tell  cl-Fiil  (p.  212).  Beyond  these,  in  the 
distance,  rise  the  blue  mountains  to  the  E.  of  Jordan;  to  the  S.E.  are 
Jerusalem  and  the  Mount  of  Olives;  adjoining  these,  on  the  hill  to 
the  S.,  is  Mar  Elyas;  above  it  rises  the  round  summit  of  the  Frank 
Mountain  (p.  110),  and  farther  distant  is  Bethlehem.  The  village 
of  Beit  Iksa  lies  quite  near  us  to  the  S. ;  to  the  S.S.W.  is  Lifta,  and 
to  the  W.N.W.,  Biddu.  Ramleh  and  Jaffa  lie  farther  to  the  W.;  the 
Dead  Sea  and  the  Mediterranean  are  also  visible  in  clear  weather. 

The  great  antiquity  of  the  site  of  En-Nebi  Samwil  is  shown  by  its 
walls,  which  are  partly  hewn  in  the  rock,  and  by  the  fine  large  blocks 
of  building-stone  outside  the  mosque  on  the  N.E.  side.  It  is  usually 
identified  with  the  ancient  fortress  of  Mizpah,  the  famous  city  of  Benjamin. 
King  Asa  of  Judah  fortified  it  against  Israel  (I  Kings  xv.  22).  Tradition 
points  out  En-Nebi  Samwil  as  the  birthplace,  residence,  and  burial-place  of 
the  prophet  Samuel,  and  it  is  recorded  that  the  Emperor  Justinian  (d.  565) 
caused  a  well  to  be  dug  here- in  the  monastery  of  St.  Samuel.  The  Cru- 
saders regarded  the  place  as  the  ancient  Shiloh  (comp.  p.  214),  and  built 
a  church  over  'Samuel's  Tomb'  in  1157,  of  which  the  transept  and  the  N. 
wing  are  still  preserved.  In  the  16th  cent,  a  handsome  and  much-frequented 
pilgrimage-shrine  stood  here. 

From  the  summit  of  the  mountain  wo  descend  to  the  S.W.  and 
then  turn  directly  to  the  W.  We  remain  on  the  height  and  thus  skirt 
the  valleys  which  descend  towards  the  S.  (left).  After  35  min.  we 
reach  the  village  of  Biddu,  where  the  Crusaders  gained  their  first 
glimpse  of  Jerusalem  (the  road  by  Beit  Nuba  and  Biddu  is  a  very  old 
one;  traces  of  the  pavement  are  still  visible).  El-Kubeibeh  is  reached 
in  l/*  hr.  more.  The  tradition  of  the  middle  ages  identifies  this  vil- 
lage with  the  Emmaus  of  the  New  Testament,  its  distance  from 
Jerusalem  (about  64  stadia)  agreeing  with  this  probability;  comp. 
p.  17.  The  village  contains  numerous  ruins.  The  new  Church  of  the 
Franciscan  Monastery  stands  on  the  still  plainly-visible  foundations 
of  an  old  Crusaders'  church  (100  ft.  long  by  50  ft.  broad),  with 


AN  ATA. 


<J.  Rvute.    97 


a  nave  ami  aisles.  The  church  is  said  to  stand  on  the  spot  where 
Jesus  broke  bread  with  the  two  disciples  (Luke  xxiv.  30).  Some 
antiquities  (incl.  a  sarcophagus)  have  also  been  dug  up.  In  return 
for  the  guidance  of  the  monks,  each  visitor  should  give  one  or  two 
francs  for  the  poor.  —  The  German  Catholic  Palestine  Society  also 
has  a  small  hospice  and  a  chapel. 

Return  Route  to  Jerusalem  (21/2llrs•)•  We  return  to  Biddu 
(see  p.  96).  Three  roads  meet  here;  we  take  the  central  one,  which 
leads  us  along  the  valley  past  the  spring  'Ain  Beit  Sunk  (above  us, 
on  the  right,  is  the  village  of  the  same  name).  In  3/4  hr.  we  pass  the 
ruins  of  Khirhet  el-Lozeh  on  our  right;  in  20  min.  more  the  valley 
unites  with  the  Wddi  Beit  Hariina ;  on  the  right  are  the  ruins  of  Beit 
Tulmil  (road  on  the  right  to  Kaloniyeh  in  20  min.).  We  cross  the 
valley,  ascend  straight  on  to  the  S.E.,  and  in  10  min.  reach  the  Jaffa 
road.    Thence  to  the  Jaffa  Gate  1  hr.  (p.  18). 

Fkom  Kt.-Kukeireh  to  Jerusalem  viA  El-.IJb  (33/4  his.).  Beyond  Biddu 
wo  follow  an  old  Iioman  road  to  the  N.E.  and  in  ca.  40  min.  reach  El-Jib,  a 
small  village  on  an  isolated  hill,  the  ancient  Gibeon  (Josh.  ix.  3etseq. ;  1  KinjiS 
iii.  4  et  set).).  The  houses  are  built  among  old  ruins  and  there  is  a  large 
building  that  seems  to  have  been  a  castle.  On  the  E.  slope  of  the  hill, 
about  100  paces  from  the  village,  is  a  large  reservoir  with  a  spring,  and 
there  is  a  second  farther  down,  perhaps  the  pool  mentioned  in  2  bam.  ii.  13. 
Fine  view.  From  Kl-Jib  we  proceed  to  the  S.E.,  passing  Bir  NebcUa,  via 
(!'/«  hr.)  Beit  Ilnnind  (p.  95)  and  (3/i  hr.)  Sha'/dl.  In  7  min.  more  we  join 
the  Nabulus  road.  Thence  to  the  (40 min.)  Damascus  Gate,  see  p.  211. 


9.  From  Jerusalem  to  cAnata,  cAin  Fara,  Jebac,  and 
Makhmas. 

3'/4  hrs.  From  Jerusalem  to  'Anatd  1fc  hr. ;  thence  to  'Ain  Fdra  l-U/4  hr. ; 
thence  to  Jeba'  3/4  hr. ;  thence  to  Makhmas  50  minutes.     Horses,  see  p.  19. 

From  the  Damascus  Gate  along  the  carriage-road  leading  to  the 
Mount  of  Olives  to  the  vicinity  of  Sir  John  Gray  Hill's  Villa,  see 
pp.  75,  76.  To  the  N.  of  this  point  wc  turn  to  the^  left,  avoiding  the 
road  to  the  right,  which  leads  to  the  village  of  El-  Isdwtyeh,  perhaps 
the  ancient  Nob  (Isaiah  x.  32).  The  path  next  descends  gradually 
to  the  N.  to  the  village  of  fAnata. 

rAnata  corresponds  to  the  ancient  Anathoth,  in  the  territory  of 
Benjamin,  the  birthplace  of  Jeremiah  (Jerem.  i.  1;  xi.  21-23).  It 
seems  to  have  been  fortified  in  ancient  times ,  and  fragments  of 
columns  are  built  into  the  houses  of  the  present  village.  A  little  to 
the  right  of  the  road,  at  the  very  entrance  to  the  village,  wo  observe 
the  ruins  of  a  large  old  building,  probably  a  church,  with  a  mosaic 
pavement.  The  view  from  the  top  of  the  broad  hill  on  which  the 
village  lies  embraces  the  mountains  of  ancient  Benjamin  towards 
the.  E.,  part  of  the  Dead  Sea,  and  a  number  of  villages  on  the 
hills  to  the  W.  and  N.  This  is  the  district  mentioned  in  Isaiah's 
description  of  the  approach  of  the  Assyrians  under  Sennacherib 
(x.  28,  30). 


98 


Route  9. 


MAKHMAS. 


The  road  (guide  now  necessary)  leads  us  towards  the  N.E.,  and 
in  3/4  hr.  skirts  the  Wddi  Fdra  (magnificent  view).  After  20  min. 
more  we  descend  precipitously  into  the  valley  a  little  helow  the 
rAin  Fara,  a  spring  with  abundant  water.  The  vegetation  in  the 
bottom  of  the  valley  remains  green  and  fresh  even  in  summer, 
the  brook  in  some  places  running  underground;  numerous  relics  of 
aqueducts,  bridges,  and  noble  buildings  are  visible.  High  up  on 
the  steep  rocky  sides  are  ancient  habitations  of  hermits  (ascent 
difficult). 

Following  a  small  side-valley  which  issues  a  little  below  the 
spring,  we  ascend  in  a  N.W.  direction  to  (8/4  hr.)  Jebar. 

Jeba ,  a  village  with  the  shrine  of  the  Nebi  Ya'kiXb  ('Prophet 
Jacob'),  is  the  ancient  Qeba  of  the  tribe  of  Benjamin  (Is.  x.  29), 
and  commands  the  Pass  of  Makhmas.  The  view  is  extensive, 
especially  towards  the  IN.,  where  the  villages  of  Burka,  Deir  Diwdn, 
and  Et-Tayyibeh  are  situated.  The  last,  a  Christian  village,  is 
perhaps  Ophrah  x)f  Benjamin  (Josh,  xviii.  23  ;  1  Sam.  xiii.  17).  To 
the  N.E.  Bammon  is  visible. 

Geba  is  not  to  be  confused  with  the  adjacent  Gibeah  of  Benjamin 
('Gibeah  of  Saul',  'Gibeah  of  God'),  wliich  has  been  identified  with  Tell 
el-Ful  (p.  212).  Geba  and  Gibeah  seem,  however,  to  have  been  confounded 
even  in  the  Old  Testament;  thus  Geba  of  Benjamin  is  evidently  meant  in 
1  Sam.  xiii.  16  and  1  Sam.  xiv.  16  instead  of  Gibeah  (comp.  also  1  Sam.  x.  6). 

From  Jebar  the  Toute  now  descends  to  the  N.E.  into  the  Wddi 
es-Suweinit  (35  min.);  another  valley  also  opens  here  to  the  N.  The 
village  of  Makhnias  (400  inhab.),  on  a  hill  J/4  hr.  to  the  N.E., 
contains  no  curiosities  except  a  cavern  with  columbaria  (p.  118). 
Farther  down  the  Wadi  es-Suweinit  contracts  between  lofty  cliffs 
and  forms  a  ravine,  answering  to  the  description  of  the  'passage  of 
Michmash'  in  1  Sam.  xiv.  4,  6.  The  'sharp  rocks'  there  mentioned 
may  also  be  identified,  and  may  be  reached  by  a  de"tour  of  72  h*« 
(recommended). 

From  Makhmas  to  Beit!n  (l3/<  hr.).  We  ascend  towards  the  N.  to  the 
tableland  along  the  E.  side  of  a  narrow,  but  deep  valley  which  runs  into  the 
Wadi  es-Suweinit.  At  the  point  where  we  obtain  a  view  of  the  valley  there  are 
several  rock-tombs  on  the  W.  slope,  above  which  lie  the  ruins  of  MakrUn, 
the  ancient  iligron  (Is.  x.  28).  After  35  min.  the  village  of  Burka  lies 
opposite,  to  the  W.N.W.,  and  that  of  Kudeira  farther  to  the  N.  After 
'/4  hr.,  tombs  and  quarries.  We  next  reach  ('/«  hr.)  the  large  village  of 
Deir  Diwan,  loftily  situated,  and  enclosed  by  mountains. 

The  city  of  'Ai  lay  near  Deir  Diwan,  but  its  exact  site  is  uncertain. 
fAi  is  described  as  having  lain  to  the  E.  of  Bethel  (Gen.  xii.  8).  It  was 
captured  by  Joshua  (Josh.  viii).  Isaiah  (x.  28)  calls  it  Aiath.  After  the 
captivity  it  was  repeopled  by  Benjamites. 

From  Deir  Diwan  the  road  leads  through  a  hollow  to  the  (20  min.) 
top  of  Tell  el-Bajar.  and  then  traverses  a  beautiful,  lofty  plain.  To  the 
N.E.  we  see  the  hill  of  Rimmon,  now  Ramm6n  (Judges  xx.  45-47).  Farther 
on  we  pMS  the  ruins  of  Bwj  Seiitn.  On  the  opposite  side  cf  a  fertile 
valley  we  perceive  the  village  of  Beilin,  which  we  reach  in  20  min.  more 
(P.  213). 


99 


10.  From  Jerusalem  to  Bethlehem. 

5i/2  Jf.  Good  Eoad.  —  Carriage*  and  Riding  Horses,  see  p.  19.  Price  of 
a  carriage  about  12  fr.  The  excursion  may  also  be  made  on  foot.  —  Half-a- 
day  will  suffice  for  Bethlehem  itself,  hut  travellers  who  go  on  to  Solomon's 
Pools  require  a  whole  day  (comp.  p.  107). 

From  the  Jaffa  Gate  to  the  Ophthalmic  Hospital  of  the  English 
Knights  of  St.  John,  see  p.  69.  At  the  top  of  the  hill  a  road  to  the  left 
ascends  to  the  barren  summit  of  the  Mount  of  Evil  Counsel  (p.  84), 
which  commands  a  good  survey  of  the  S.  side  of  Jerusalem.  The  ruins 
of  an  Arab  village  on  the  hill  are  traditionally  called  the  Country 
House  of  Caiaphas.  To  the  S.  of  the  Weli  Abu  Tor  is  the  tree  on 
•which  Judas  is  said  to  have  hanged  himself;  all  its  branches  extend 
horizontally  towards  the  E.  Tradition  has,  however,  several  times 
changed  the  position  of  this  tree.  —  Farther  on,  to  the  left  of  the 
road,  is  a  large  Convent  of  Clarissine  Nuns. 

The  lofty  and  tolerably  well  cultivated  plain  extending  hence 
towards  the  S.,  which  our  route  traverses,  is  called  El-Bukei'a(Tpj>- 14, 
15).  The  plain  sinks  towards  the  W.  to  the  Wddiel-Wer'd  (p.  93).  On 
the  right,  at  the  entrance  to  this  valley,  we  first  observe  the  village 
of  Beit  Safdfa,  and  then  that  of  Esh-Sherdfdt,  at  some  distance. 
On  an  eminence  close  by,  to  the  right,  is  the  Greek  settlement  called 
Katamdn  (p.  69) .  Farther  on,  to  the  left  of  the  road,  a  cistern  is 
pointed  out  as  the  traditional  Well  of  the  Magi,  where  they  are  said 
to  have  again  seen  the  guiding  star  (Matth.  ii.  9).  Mary  also  is 
said  to  have  rested  here  on  her  way  to  Bethlehem,  whence  its  ancient 
name  Kathisma  (seat),  preserved  in  the  modern  name  Bir  Kadtsmu. 

At  the  extremity  of  the  plain  we  ascend  a  hill  to  the  monastery 
of  M&r  Elyas,  3  M.  from  Jerusalem,  very  pleasantly  situated  (1.)  on 
the  saddle  of  the  hill.  On  the  left  of  the  road  lies  a  Well  from 
which  the  Holy  Family  is  said  once  to  have  drunk.  The  view  from 
the  adjoining  hill  to  the  right  is  quite  as  fine  as  that  from  the  terrace 
of  the  monastery.  To  the  S.  lies  Bethlehem,  to  the  N.  Jerusalem, 
beyond  which  rises  En-Nebi  Samwil, while  the  blue  mountain-range 
to  the  E.  of  Jordan  is  seen  to  great  advantage. 

The  monastery  was  erected  at  an  unknown  date  by  a  Bishop  Elias, 
whose  tomb  was  shown  in  the  monastery  church  down  to  the  17th  cent., 
and  was  rebuilt  during  the  Frank  regime  (1160)  after  its  destruction  by 
the  infidels.  Shortly  afterwards  the  tradition  was  invented  that  the  place 
was  connected  with  the  prophet  Elijah,  and  the  events  described  in  1  Kings 
xix.  3  et  seq.  were  even  localized  in  a  depression  in  the  rock  (to  the  right 
of  the  road,  opposite  the  monastery-door) ,  which  was  said  to  have  been 
made  by  the  prophet's  body. 

Beyond  the  monastery  the  road  leads  to  the  right,  skirting  a 
valley  which  descends  to  the  E.  and  reaches  to  the  Dead  Sea.  In 
front  of  us,  beyond  the  valley  towards  the  S.E.,  the  round  summit 
of  the  Frank  Mountain  (p.  110)  comes  in  sight,  and  towards  the  S., 
Bethlehem.  On  the  right  (S.S.W.)  lies  the  large  village  of  Beit  Jdld 
(p.  100),  with  its  white  buildings.  After  10  min.  we  reach  Tantur, 
a  settlement  of  the  Roman  Catholic  Maltese  Order,    beautifully 


100  Route  a>. 


TOMB  OF  RACHEL.       From  Jerusalem 


situated  on  a  lull  to  the  right  and  containing  a  hospital  and  chapel. 
Hero  is  shown  the  Field  of  Peas,  so  called  from  the  legend  that  Christ 
once  asked  a  man  what  he  was  sowing,  to  which  thereply  was 'stones'. 
The  field  thereupon  produced  peas  of  stone,  some  of  which  arc  still 
to  be  found  on  the  spot.   To  the  left  is  a  fine  view  of  the  Dead  Sea. 

After  12  min.  (4  M.  from  Jerusalem)  we  see  on  our  right  an  in- 
significant building  styled  the  Tomb  of  Rachel  (Kubbet  Rahtl).  The 
dome  of  the  tomb  closely  resembles  those  of  the  innumerable  Muslim 
welis,  and  the  whitewashed  sarcophagus  is  modern.  The  entrance 
to  the  fore-court  is  on  the  N.  side.  The  tomb  is  revered  by  Mus- 
lims, Christians,  and  Jews,  and  is  much  visited  by  pilgrims,  espe- 
cially of  the  last-named  faith.  The  walls  are  covered  with  the  names 
of  these  devotees.  The  tomb  is  generally  closed  (key  with  the  chief 
rabbi  in  Jerusalem). 

According  to  1  Sam.  x.  2  et  seq.,  and  Jer.  xxxi.  15,  the  tomb  of  Rachel  was 
on  the  border  of  Benjamin,  near  Ramah  (Er-Ram,  p.  212).  Traces  of  a 
conformable  spot  (based  on  old  tradition)  have  been  discovered  about 
17*  M.  to  the  N.E.  of  Kaztal  (p.  17).  In  the  time  of  Christ,  however, 
the  tomb  was  located  near  Bethlehem  and  the  passage  in  Jeremiah  \\:is 
regarded  as  applying  to  Bethlehem.  This  view  was  already  shared  by 
the  author  of  the  erroneous  gloss  ('that  is  Bethlehem)  in  Gen.  xxxv.  10 
and  xlviii.  7,  placed  after  the  name  of  Ephrath,  near  which  Rachel  died; 
and  also  by  the  writer  of  Micah  v.  2.  Throughout  the  whole  of  the 
Christian  period  the  tradition  has  always  attached  to  the  same  spot,  and 
for  many  centuries  the  supposed  tomb  was  marked  by  a  pyramid  of  stones, 
of  which  the  number  was  said  to  have  been  twelve,  corresponding  with 
the  number  of  the  tribes  of  Israel.  The  monument  appears  to  have  been 
altered  in  the  loth  cent.,  since  which  time  it  has  been  repeatedly  restored. 

The  whole  district  is  well  cultivated.  It  was  famous  even  in 
antiquity  for  its  fertility,  and  the  eye  is  still  struck  with  the  careful 
way  in  which  the  ground  is  cultivated  in  terraces.  The  vegetation 
here,  partly  owing  to  the  greater  industry  of  the  inhabitants,  is  richer 
than  in  the  immediate  environs  of  Jerusalem.  To  the  right  of  the 
road,  on  the  opposite  slope  of  the  valley,  we  see  the  large  Christian 
villageofBeit  Jala,situated  in  the  midst  of  extensive  olive-orchards, 
to  which  a  road  turns  off  immediately  beyond  the  Tomb  of  Rachel. 

Beit  Jala,  which,  perhaps,  corresponds  with  Oiloh  (Josh.  xv.  51;  2  Sam. 
xv.  12),  contains  about  4500  inhab.,  most  of  whom  are  Orthodox  Greeks 
(with  a  large  church).  There  are  7UO-800  Latins,  with  a  seminary  of  the 
Latin  Patriarchate  and  a  school,  and  about  160  Protestants,  with  a  school 
and  a  small  church  which  is  served  from  Bethlehem. 

Beyond  the  Tomb  of  Rachel  the  road  divides;  the  branch  straight 
on  leads  to  Hebron  (p.  108).  We,  however,  turn  to  the  left,  and  in  a 
few  minutes  reach  the  first  houses  of  Bethlehem.  From  the  point 
where  the  road  bends  to  the  right  a  narrow  path  straight  on  brings  us 
to  the  (2min.)  so-called  David's  Well,  consisting  of  three  cisterns 
hewn  in  the  rock.  Since  the  15th  cent,  tradition  has  associated  this 
spot  with  the  narrative  in  2  Sam.  xxiii.  14-17.  Close  beside  the  well 
a  necropolis  has  been  discovered  with  inscriptions  in  red  pigment 
(mostly  names  of  the  deceased).  In  the  vicinity  is  a  fine  mosaic 
pavement  with  a  Greek  inscription   (Psalms  cxviii.  19),  probably 


to  Bethlehem. 


BETHLEHEM. 


10.  Route. 


101 


the  remains  of  an  ancient  monastery  founded  by  Paula  (p.  106). 
The  view  of  Bethlehem,  situated  beyond  the  Wddi  el-Hrobbeh,  is 
very  picturesque  from  this  point. 

Bethlehem  (2550  ft.),  the  home  of  David  and  the  birthplace  ot 
our  Saviour  Jesus  Christ,  has  a  situation  resembling  that  of  Jerusa- 
lem ,  and  now  contains  about  8000  inhab.,  nearly  all  of  whom  are 
Christians.  The  two  ridges  upon  which  the  town  lies  are  bounded 
on  the  N.  by  the  Wddi  el-Hrobbeh  (PI.  C,  4),  on  the  S.  by  the  Wddi 
cr-Ruhib  (PI.  B,  5),  and  on  the  W.  and  E.  by  two  shallower  de- 
pressions. The  W.  hill  is  connected  with  the  E.  hill  by  a  short  saddle. 
—  On  the  square  in  front  of  the  church  are  the  Serai  (PI.  B,  C,  4) 
with  the  Turkish  Post  and  Telegraph  Office,  some  shops,  a  cafe,  and 
a  small  Arab  hotel, where  nightquarters  may  be  obtained  if  necessary. 

The  name  of  bH  lehem  ('place  of  bread',  or  mure  generally  'place  of 
food1;  Arab,  beit  lahm)  has  existed  without  change  during  thousands  of 
years.  Bethlehem  is  the  scene  of  the  beautiful  idyl  of  the  book  of  Ruth, 
but  it  was  specially  famous  as  the  home  of  the  family  of  David.  Kot  only 
that  monarch  but  also  other  celebrated  members  of  the  family,  Jo&b, 
Asabel,  and  Abishai,  once  resided  here  (2  Sam.  ii.  13,  18,  32).  It  was  not, 
however,  until  the  Christian  period,  when  it.  began  to  attract  pilgrims, 
that  Bethlehem  became  a  place  of  any  size.  Constantine  erected  a  magni- 
ficent basilica  here  in  330 (p.  103),  and  Justinian  caused  the  walls  to  be  rebuilt. 
Many  monasteries  and  churches  were  soon  erected,  and  it  is  spoken  of  as 
a  flourishing  place  about  the  year  000.  On  the  approach  of  the  Crusaders 
the  Arabs  destroyed  Rethlehem,  but  the  Franks  soon  rebuilt  the  little 
town  and  founded  a  castle  near  the  monastery.  In  1244  the  place  was 
devastated  by  theKharezmians(p.  lxxxiv),and  in  1489  itwas  again  destroyed. 
For  a  time  the  place  lost  much  of  its  importance,  hut  within  the  last  three 
centuries  it  has  gradually  recovered.  Quarrels  between  the  Christians  .and 
the  Muslims  frequently  caused  bloodshed,  and  the  inhabitants  were  even 
occasionally  molested  by  the  Beduins.  The  Muslims  were  expelled  by  the 
Christians  in  1831,  and  after  an  insurrection  in  1834  their  quarter  was 
destroyed  by  order  of  Ibrahim  Pasha;  there  arc  now  only  a  .bout  300  Mus- 
lims in  the  place. 

The  inhabitants  live  chiefly  by  agriculture  and  breeding  cattle,  besides 
which  they  have  for  several  centuries  been  occupied  in  the  manufacture 
of  rosaries,  crosses,  and  other  fancy  articles  in  wood,  mother-of-pearl, 
coral,  and  stinkstone  (lime  mixed  with  bitumen)  from  the  Dead  Sea.  The 
vases  made  of  the  last-named  material,  however,  are  very  fragile.  A  visit 
to  one  of  the  workshops,  when  buying,  will  prove  interesting.  Bethlehem 
is  also  the  market-town  of  the  peasants  and  Beduins  in  the  neighbourhood. 

Conip.  Palmer,  Das  jetzigc  Rethlehem :  ZDPV,  xviii.  89  et  seq. 

The  town  is  divided  into  eight  districts.  The  Latins  possess  a 
Franciscan  Monastery  (PI.  C,  4~)  here  with  a  hospice,  boys'  school, 
and  pharmacy,  and  a  new  church  (on  the  slope  of  the  hill,  at  the 
back  of  the  large  church);  they  have  also  a  Convent  of  the  Sisters  of 
St.  Joseph  (PI.  B,  3),  with  a  girls'  school  and  an  orphanage.  In  the 
S.W.  quarter  is  the  French  Convent  of  the  Carmelite  Sisters  (PI.  A,  4), 
a  building  in  the  style  of  the  Castle  of  Sant'  Angelo  at  Rome,  with 
a  church  and  a  seminary;  on  the  hill  in  the  N.  suburb  is  the  large 
Boys'  Home  and  Industrial  School  of  Father  Beloni  (PI.  B,  3),  with 
a  church  ;  to  the  N.W.,  near  the  Hebron  road,  is  a  Hospital  of  the 
Sisters  of  Charity  (PI.  B,  3);  and  on  the  highest  point  to  the  N.  is 
a  school  of  the  'Freres  des  Ecoles  Chretiennes*  (PI.  B,  2).  The  Greeks 


102 


Route  10. 


BETHLEHEM.     Church  of  the  Nativity. 


have  a  Monastery  of  the  Nativity,  the  Churches  of  St.  Helen  and 
St.  Oeorge.  a  school  for  hoys,  and  another  for  girls.  The  Armenians 
have  a  large  Monastery.  The  three  monasteries  together  occupy  a 
large  building  resembling  a  fortress,  which  forms  a  prominent  object 
at  the  S.E.  end  of  the  town.  The  number  of  Protestants  is  about  60. 
There  are  also  a  school  lbr»girls  and  a  seminary  for  female  teachers 
of  the  British  mission  (PI.  C,  5),  and  a  German  Protestant  institution 
(PL  B,  4),  with  a  church  (p.  107),  an  orphanage  to  the  W.  of  the 
town  on  the  way  to  Artas  (p.  HO),  and  a  medical  mission. 

The  large  *Ohurch  of  the  Nativity  or  of  St.  Mary  (PI.  B,  C,  4, 5), 
erected  over  the  traditional  birthplace  of  Christ,  lies  in  the  E.  part 


1,  Principal  Entrance.  2.  Entrance  to  the  Armenian  Monastery.  3.  En- 
trances to  the  Latin  Monastery  and  Church.  4.  Entrances  to  the  Greek  Monastery. 
5.  Font  of  the  Oreeks.  6.  Entrances  of  the  Greeks  to  the  Choir.  7.  Common 
Entrance  of  the  Greeks  and  Armenians  to  the  Choir.  8.  Armenian  Altai's. 
9.  Entrance  to  the  Church  of  St.  Catharine  (Latin).  10.  Steps  leading  to  the 
Grotto  cf  the  Nativity  (conip.  Plan,  p.  104).  11.  Greek  Altar.  12.  Greek.  Choir. 
13.  Throne  of  the  Greek  Patriarch.  14.  Seats  of  the  Greek  Clergy.  15.  Pttlpit. 
16.  Latin  Church  of  St.  Catharine.  17.  Entrance  to  the  Latin  Monastery. 
18.  Stairs  to  the  Grottoes  (comp.  Plan,  p.  104).  19.  Latin  Sacristy.  20.  Schools 
of  the  Franciscans.  21.  Latin  Monastery. 
The  dotted  lines  in  the  above  Plan  indicate  the  situation  of  the 
grottoes  under  the  church  (comp.  Plan,  p.  104), 


Church  of  the  Nativity.     BETHLEHEM. 


10.  Route.    103 


of  the  town,  above  the  Wadi  el-Hrobbeh  (PI.  B,  C,  4),  ami  is  the 
joint  property  of  the  Greeks,  Latins,  and  Armenians. 

The  tradition  which  localizes  the  birth  of  Christ  in  a  cavern  near 
Bethlehem  extends  back  as  far  as  the  2nd  century  (Justin  Martyr).  As  an 
insult  to  the  Christians,  Hadrian  is  said  to  have  destroyed  a  church  which 
stood  on  the  sacred  spot,  and  to  have  erected  a  temple  of  Adonis  on  its  site, 
but  this  story  is  not  authenticated.  It  is  certain  that  a  handsome  basilica 
was  erected  here  by  order  of  the  Emperor  Constantine.  The  assertion  that 
the  present  church  is  the  original  structure  is  based  on  the  simplicity 
of  its  style  and  the  absence  of  characteristics  of  the  buildings  of  the  sub- 
sequent era  of  Justinian.  Other  authorities  consider  it  beyond  question 
that  the  Church  of  St.  Mary  underwent  considerable  restoration  in  the 
days  of  Justinian  (627-565).  In  any  case,  we  are  about  to  visit  a  church 
of  venerable  antiquity,  and  one  which  is  specially  interesting  as  an 
example  of  the  earliest  Christian  style  of  architecture.  In  the  year 
1010  the  church  is  said  to  have  miraculously  escaped  destruction 
by  the  Muslims  under  Hakim,  and  the  Franks  found  the  church  uninjured. 
Throughout  the  accounts  of  all  the  pilgrims  of  the  middle  ages  there 
prevails  so  remarkable  a  unanimity  regarding  the  situation  and  archi- 
tecture of  the  church,  that  there  can  be  little  doubt  that  it  has  never 
been  altered.  On  Christmas  Day,  1101,  Baldwin  was  crowned  king  here, 
and  in  1110  Bethlehem  was  elevated  to  the  rank  of  an  episcopal  see. 
The  church  soon  afterwards  underwent  a  thorough  restoration,  and  the 
Byzantine  emperor  Manuel  Coinnenos  (1143-1180)  munificently  caused 
the  walls  to  be  adorned  with  gilded  mosaics.  The  church  was  covered 
with  lead.  In  1482  the  roof,  which  had  become  dilapidated,  was  repaired, 
Kdward  IV.  of  England  giving  the  lead  for  the  purpose,  and  Philip  of 
Burgundy  the  pine-wood.  At  that  period  the  mosaics  fell  into  disrepair. 
Towards  the  end  of  the  17th  cent,  the  Turks  stripped  the  roof  of  its  lead, 
in  order  to  make  bullets.  On  the  occasion  of  a  restoration  of  the  church 
in  1G72  the  Greeks  managed  to  obtain  possession  of  it.  The  Latins  were 
again  admitted  to  a  share  of  the  proprietorship  of  the  church  through  the 
intervention  of  Napoleon  III.  in  1852. 

In  front  of  the  principal  entrance  on  the  W.  side  lies  a  large 
paved  space,  in  which  traces  of  the  former  atrium  of  Constantine's 
basilica  have  been  discovered.  From  the  atrium  three  doors  led  into 
the  vestibule  of  the  church;  but  of  these  the  central  one  (PI.  1") 
only  has  been  preserved,  and  it  has  long  been  reduced  to  very  small 
dimensions  from  fear  of  the  Muslims.  The  portal  is  of  quadrangular 
form,  and  the  simply  decorated  lintel  is  supported  by  two  brackets. 
The  porch  is  as  wide  as  the  nave  of  the  church,  but  is  not  higher 
than  the  aisles,  so  that  its  roof  is  greatly  overtopped  by  the  pointed 
gable  of  the  chuTch.  The  porch  is  dark,  and  is  divided  by  walls  into 
several  chambers.  The  side-doors  leading  into  the  church  are  also 
walled  up. 

The  Interior  of  the  church  is  characterized  by  the  grand  sim- 
plicity of  the  structure.  It  consists  of  a  nave  and  double  aisles,  and 
of  a  wide  transept  and  a  semicircular  apse,  which  are  unfortunately 
concealed  by  a  wall  erected  by  the  Greeks  in  1842.  The  floor  is 
paved  with  large  slabs  of  stone.  The  aisles  are  lower  than  the  nave 
and  only  &*/%  and  4  yds.  in  width.  The  nave  and  aisles  are  separated 
from  each  other  by  four  rows  (11  to  a  row)  of  monolithic  columns 
of  reddish  limestone,  with  white  veins.  The  base  of  each  column 
rests  on  a  square  slab.  The  capitals  are  Corinthian,  but  show  a 
decline  of  the  style;    at  the  top  of  each  is  engraved  a  cross.    The 


104   Route  10. 


BETHLEHEM.     Church  of  the  Nativity. 


columns,  including  capitals  and  bases,  are  19  ft.  high.  Ahove  the 
columns  are  architraves.  In  the  aisles  these  architraves  hear  the 
wooden  beams  of  the  roof.  The  aisles  were  not,  as  elsewhere,  raised 
to  the  height  of  the  nave  by  means  of  an  upper  gallery,  hut  wails 
were  erected  to  a  height  of  about  32  ft.  above  the  architraves  of 
the  inner  row  of  columns  for  the  support  of  the  roof-beams  of  the 
nave.  These  form  a  pointed  roof,  which  was  once  richly  painted 
and  gilded.  Unfortunately  very  little  has  been  preserved  of  the 
mosaics  of  Coinnenos  (p.  103).  The  lowest  row  on  the  S.  (right) 
side  consists  of  a  series  of  half-figures  of  the  ancestors  of  Christ, 
of  which  seven  only,  representing  the  immediate  ancestors  of  Joseph, 


]spr 


a,  a.  Stairs  to  the  Crypt, 
descending  from  the  Greek 
choir  of  the  church  ofStMarv 
(see  Plan,  p.  102).  b.  Stairs 
to  the  Crypt,  from  the  Latin 
Church  of  St.  Catharine, 
c.  Stairs  now  closed,  d.  Place 
of  the  Nativity,  e.  Manger  of 
the  Latins,  f.  Altar  of  the  Ad- 
oration of  the  Magi.  g.  Spring 
of  the  Holy  Family,  h.  Pas- 
sage in  the  Rock.  i.  Scene 
of  the  Vision  commanding  the 
Flight  into  Egypt,  k.  Chapel 
of  the  Innocents.  1.  Tomb  of 
Eusebius.  m.  'tomb  of  St.  Je- 
rome, n.  Chapel  of  St.  Jerome. 


are  now  distinguishable;  above  these,  interspersed  with  fantastic 
foliage,  are  arcades,  containing  altars  concealed  by  curtains,  on 
which  books  of  the  Gospels  are  placed.  The  Greek  inscription  above 
contains  an  extract  from  the  resolutions  of  the  Council  of  Con- 
stantinople (381 ;  concerning  the  Godhead  of  the  Holy  Ghost),  and 
still  higher  are  two  crosses.  On  the  N.  (left)  side,  in  the  spaces 
between  the  fantastic  plants,  are  representations  of  the  interior  of 
the  churches  of  Antioch  and  Sardica,  and  a  third  church,  with  altars 
and  books  of  the  Gospels.  Here,  too,  are  Greek  inscriptions  relating 
to  the  resolutions  of  Councils.  The  drawing  is  very  primitive,  being 
without  perspective. 

Three  passages  (PI.  6,  7)  lead  us  into  the  transept,  which  is  of  the 
same  width  as  the  nave.  The  four  angles  formed  by  the  intersection 
of  the  transept  with  the  nave  are  formed  by  four  large  piers,  into 


Church  of  the  Nativity.     BETHLEHEM. 


10.  Route.    105 


which  are  built  pilasters  and  half- columns  corresponding  to  the 
columns  of  the  nave.  The  transepts  terminate  in  semicircular  apses. 
The  aisles  are  prolonged  to  the  E.  beyond  the  transept,  to  the  right 
and  left  of  the  choir;  they  are  of  unequal  length  and  have  rectilinear 
instead  of  apsidal  terminations.  The  mosaics  in  the  transept,  some 
only  of  which  are  now  distinguishable,  chiefly  represent  the  history 
of  Christ.  The  S.  apse  of  the  transept  contains  a  very  quaint 
representation  of  the  Entry  into  Jerusalem.  In  the  N.  apse  is  a 
representation  of  the  scene  where  Christ  invites  Thomas  to  examine 
his  wounds.  The  apostles  here  are  without  the  nimbus.  A  third 
fragment  represents  the  Ascension,  but  the  upper  part  is  gone.  Here 
again  the  apostles  are  without  the  nimbus;  in  their  midst  is  the 
Virgin  between  two  angels. 

Two  flights  of  steps  (No.  10  on  the  large  ground-plan,  p.  102; 
'a'  on  the  plan  at  p.  l04)  descend  into  the  Chai-el  of  the  Nativity, 
which  is  situated  below  the  choir  and  is  lighted  by  32  lamps.  It  is 
131/2  yds.  long  (from  E.  to  W.),  4  yds.  wide,  and  10  ft.  high.  The 
pavement  is  of  marble,  and  the  walls,  which  are  of  masonry,  are 
lined  with  marble.  Under  the  altar  in  the  recess  to  the  E.,  a  silver 
star  (PI.  d)  is  let  into  the  pavement,  with  the  inscription  lHic  de  \/ 
Viryine  Maria  Jesus  Christus  natus  est'.  Around  the  recess  burn 
15  lamps,  of  which  G  belong  to  the  Greeks,  5  to  the  Armenians,  and 
4  to  the  Latins.  The  recess  still  shows  a  few  traces  of  mosaics.  This 
sacred  spot  was  richly  decorated  as  early  as  the  time  of  Coustantine, 
ami  even  with  the  Muslims  was  in  high  repute  at  a  later  period. 
—  Opposite  the  recess  of  the  Nativity  are  three  steps  (PI.  e) 
descending  to  the  Chapel  of  the  Manges..  The  manger,  in  which, 
according  to  tradition,  Christ  was  once  laid,  is  of  marble,  the 
bottom  being  white,  and  the  front  brown;  a  wax-doll  represents 
the  Infant.  The  form  of  the  chapel  and  manger  of  Bethlehem  have 
in  the  course  of  centuries  undergone  many  changes ;  and  a  cradle- 
liko  manger  is  shown  as  the  original  in  the  church  of  Santa  Maria 
Maggiore  in  Rome,  to  which  it  was  probably  brought  about  the 
year  750.  In  the  same  chapel,  to  the  E. ,  is  the  Altar  of  the 
Adoration  of  the  Magi  (PL  f),  belonging  to  the  Latins.  The  picture 
is  quite  modern.  —  At  the  end  of  the  subterranean  passage  to- 
wards the  W.  we  observe  a  round  hole  (PL  g)  on  the  right,  out  of 
which  water  is  said  to  have  burst  forth  for  the  use  of  the  Holy 
Family.  In  the  15th  cent,  the  absurd  tradition  was  invented  that 
the  star  which  had  guided  the  Magi  fell  into  this  spring,  in  which 
none  but  virgins  could  see  it. 

The  entrance  to  the  N.  part  of  the  grotto,  which  belongs  to  the 
Latins,  is  from  the  Church  of  St.  Catharine.  We  leave  the  grotto 
by  the  N.  steps  (No.  10  on  the  ground-plan,  p.  102),  and  continue 
past  the  Armenian  Altars  (No.  8  on  the  ground-plan,  p.  102)  to  the 
N.  apse  of  the  transept,  where  a  door  (No.  9  on  the  ground-plan, 
p.  102)  leads  into  the  Church  of  St.  Catharine  (No.  16  on  the 


106   Route  10. 


BETHLEHEM. 


From  Jerusalem 


ground-plan,  p.  102).  Here  Christ  is  said  to  have  appeared  to 
St.  Catharine  of  Alexandria  and  to  have  predicted  her  martyrdom. 
The  church  is  probably  identical  with  a  chapel  of  St.  Nicholas 
mentioned  in  the  14th  century.  It  is  handsomely  fitted  up  and  in 
1881  was  entirely  re-erected  by  the  Franciscans.  —  On  the  N.  and 
W.  is  the  Monastery  of  the  Franciscajis,  which  commands  the  W/tfi 
el-Hrobbeh  and  looks  like  a  fortress  with  its  massive  walls. 

Some  steps  in  the  S.W.  corner  of  the  church  (No.  18  on  ground- 
plan,  p.  102;  'b'  on  ground-plan,  p.  104)  descend  into  the  Chapel 
of  the  Innocents  (PI.  k),  where,  according  to  a  tradition  of  the  15th 
cent.,  Herod  caused  several  children  to  be  slain,  who  had  been 
brought  here  for  safety  by  their  mothers.  —  Five  steps  lead  hence 
to  a  second  Chapel  (PI.  i;  fitted  up  in  1621),  where  Joseph  is  said 
to  have  been  commanded  by  the  angel  to  flee  into  Egypt.  Other 
Scriptural  events  were  also  associated  by  tradition  with  this  spot. 

We  return  to  the  Chapel  of  the  Innocents  (PI.  k)  and  enter  the 
passage  to  the  left,  containing  the  altar  and  tomb  of  Eusebius  of 
Cremona  (PI.  1),  of  which  there  is  no  mention  before  1556.  A 
presbyter  named  Eusebius  (not  to  be  confounded  with  Eusebius, 
Bishop  of  Cremona  in  the  7th  cent.)  was  a  pupil  of  St.  Jerome,  but 
that  he  died  in  Bethlehem  is  very  unlikely.  Farther  on  is  the  Tomb 
of  St.  Jerome  (PI.  m),  in  a  chapel  hewn  in  the  rock.  The  tomb  of 
the  great  Latin  Church  Father,  who  was  born  in  Dalmatia  about 
340  and  died  at  Bethlehem  in  420,  has-been  shown  on  this  spot  for 
about  three  centuries.  St.  Jerome  is  chiefly  famous  for  his  translation 
of  the  Bible  into  Latin  (the  Vulgate),  for  which  his  knowledge  of 
Hebrew  specially  fitted  him.  Opposite  the  tomb  of  St.  Jerome,  on 
the  E. ,  the  tombs  of  his  pupil  Paula  and  her  daughter  Eustochium 
(formerly  on  the  S.  side  of  the  church)  have  been  shown  since  1566.  — 
A  little  farther  to  the  N.  is  the  large  Chapel  of  St.  Jerome  (PI.  n), 
in  which  he  is  said  to  have  dwelt  and  to  have  written  his  works.  It 
was  originally  hewn  out  of  the  rock,  but  is  now  lined  with  masonry. 
A  window  looks  towards  the  cloisters.  A  painting  here  represents 
St.  Jerome  with  a  Bible  in  his  hand.  The  chapel  is  mentioned  for 
the  first  time  in  1449,  and  the  tomb  of  the  saint  was  also  once 
shown  here. 

To  theS.  of  the  basilica  are  the  Armenian  and  the  Greek  Monastery . 
The  tower  of  the  Greek  Monastery  affords  a  beautiful  View  of  Beth- 
lehem and  its  environs,  particularly  towards  the  S.  and  E.,  into  the 
Wadi  er-Rahib,  and  towards  Tekoah  and  the  Frank  Mountain. 

From  the  fore-court  of  the  basilica  a  street  leads  to  the  S.E., 
between  houses,  the  Greek  Monastery,  and  its  dependencies,  back  to 
the  open  air.  After  5  min.  we  come  (r.)  to  the  so-called  Milk  Grotto, 
or  Women's  Cavern,  a  natural  rocky  cavern  about  16  ft.  long, 
10  ft.  wide,  and  8  ft.  high.  The  tradition  from  which  it  derives 
its  name,  and  of  which  there  are  various  versions,  is  that  the  Holy 
Family  guce  sought  shelter  or  concealment  here,  and  that  a  drop  of 


to  Bethlehem.    FIELD  OF  THE  SHEPHERDS.    10. Route.    107 


the  Virgin's  milk  fell  on  the  floor  of  the  grotto.  For  many  centuries 
both  Christians  and  Muslims  have  entertained  a  superstitious  belief 
that  the  rook  of  this  cavern  has  the  property  of  increasing  the  milk 
of  women  and  even  of  animals,  and  to  this  day  round  cakes  mixed 
with  dust  from  the  rock  are  given  to  pilgrims. 

The  view  from  the  platform  of  the  German  Protestant  Church 
(PI .  B,  4)  includes  theCarmelite  Monastery  in  the  village  of  Beit  Jala, 
(p.  100)  to  the  E.,  and  Artiis  (p.  110)  and  the  mountains  of  Judea  to 
the  S. ;  the  towers  of  the  vineyards  should  be  noticed  (Matth.  xxi.  33). 


In  order  to  visit  the  so-called  Field  of  the  Shepherds ,  we  may 
continue  to  follow  the  road  which  led  us  to  the  Milk  Grotto  towards 
the  E. ,  but  as  the  descent  is  very  steep,  it  is  advisable  to  send  round 
our  horses  by  the  easier  route  on  the  N.  to  await  us.  In  about  7  min., 
we  observe  to  the  right  of  the  road  a  small  ruin,  which,  according  to 
a  mediaeval  tradition,  occupies  the  site  of  the  House  of  Joseph,  in 
which  ho  had  his  dream  (Matth.  i.  20).  In  5  min.  more  we  reach 
the  village  of  Beit  Sdhilr  en-Nasdrd  (i.e.  'of  the  Christians').  The 
first  mention  of  it  is  by  pilgrims  in  the  10th  cent. ;  perhaps  it  is 
the  Ashur  of  1  Chron.  ii.  24.  It  has  about  600  inhabitants,  mostly 
Orthodox  Greeks,  with  a  few  Latins  and  Muslims.  There  are  several 
grottoes  with  flint  tools  and  cisterns  here.  The  highest  cistern, 
situated  in  the  middle  of  the  village ,  is  famous  as  the  scene  of  a 
traditional  miracle:  the  inhabitants  having  refused  to  draw  water  for 
the  Virgin,  the  water  rose  in  the  well  of  its  own  accord.  The  dwelling 
of  the  shepherds  is  now  placed  here  (Luke  ii.  8).  The  key  of  the 
Grotto  of  the  Shepherds  must  be  obtained  at  the  Greek  monastery 
here  (Deir  er-llum).  —  We  then  ride  on  towards  the  N.E.  through 
a  small,  well-cultivated  plain,  called  by  tradition  the  Field  of  Boaz 
(Ruth  ii.3  etseq.).  After  lOrnin.  wo  reach  theField  of  the  Shepherds, 
in  the  middle  of  which  is  the  Grotto  of  the  Shepherds.  A  very  old 
tradition  makes  the  angels  to  have  appeared  to  the  shepherds  here. 
For  centuries  a  church  and  a  monastery  stood  on  the  spot,  but  there 
is  no  mention  of  a  grotto  until  the  Crusaders'  time.  The  subterranean 
chapel,  to  which  21  steps  descend,  contains  some  paintings,  shafts 
of  columns ,  and  a  few  traces  of  a  mediaeval  mosaic  pavement. 
Around  lie  some  ruins  which  perhaps  belong  to  the  mediaeval  church 
of  'Gloria  in  Excelsis\  An  attempt  has  been  made  to  identify  the 
site  of  this  church  with  a  spot  about  1/2  M.  to  the  N.,  but  if  that  were 
correct  the  Tower  of  Edar  (Gen.  xxxv.  21),  or  'Tower  of  Flocks' , 
would  also  have  to  be  transferred  thither.  This  tower  is  mentioned 
by  Paula  (p.  106)  as  having  stood  in  the  Field  of  the  Shepherds.  In 
the  middle  ages  its  site  was  pointed  out  in  the  direction  of  Tekoah 
(p.  110),  but  since  the  16th  cent,  it  has  been  again  fixed  here.  — 
In  returning,  we  take  the  direct  route  to  the  Franciscan  monastery. 

From   Bethlehem    via  Arias   to   the   Pools   of  Solomon   (50  min.),  seo 
p.  108;  to  the  Monastery  of  Mdr  Sdbd,  see  p.  134;  to  Engedi,  see  p.  169. 
Baedekkk's  Palestine  and  Syria.    4th  Edit.  7 


108 


11.  From  Jerusalem  to  the  Pools  of  Solomon 
and  the  Frank  Mountain. 

Cakbiage  Koad  as  far  as  the  Pools  of  Solomon,  l3/t  M.  (carriages  and 
saddle-horses,  see  p.  19);  thence  with  guide  via  Khareitun  to  the  Frank 
Mountain  3  hrs. ;  from  the  Frank  Mountain  to  Bethlehem  l>/2  hr.  ;  thence 
back  to  Jerusalem  H/4  hr.  —  By  starting  early  from  Jerusalem  the  traveller 
may  accomplish  the  round  trip  in  one  day;  but  to  allow  any  time  for 
visiting  Bethlehem  he  must  proceed  thither  direct  from  the  Pools  of 
Solomon  via  Artas  (50  min.).  Provisions  and  lights  should  be  taken.  If 
necessary,  unpretending  sleeping-quarters  may  be  obtained  at  Bethlehem 
(p.  101).  If  Tekoah  be  also  included  in  the  excursion,  one  day  and  a  half  will 
be  required,  the  night  being  spentat  Bethlehem,  whence  an  early  start  should 
be  made,  or  the  horses  must  be  sent  on  early  in  advance  to  the  Pools,  the  tra- 
veller following  by  carriage.  If  the  traveller  wishes  to  see  the  Pools  only, 
he  ran  do  this  best  when  visiting  Bethlehem  (p.  101)  or  Hebron  (p.  113). 

From  the  Jaffa  Gate  to  the  Tomb  of  Rachel  (1  iji  hr.),  see  pp.  99, 
100.  From  this  point  we  follow  the  Hebron  road  (comp.  p.  100),  from 
which  a  few  yards  farther  on  a  road  diverges  to  Beit  Jala  (p.  100). 

To  the  left  of  the  road  are  various  fragments  of  the  old  aque- 
duct (see  p.  109).  After  about  50  min.,  at  the  point  where  the  road 
bends  to  the  left,  we  observe  on  the  right  the  Greek  monastery  Deir 
el-Khadr,  with  an  asylum  for  the  insane,  close  to  the  village  of  El- 
Khadr.  A  few  minutes  farther  on  is  Kal'at  el-Burak,  or  'castle  by  the 
pools',  erected  in  the  17th  cent,  for  protection  against  the  Beduins. 
¥e  here  obtain  the  key  for  the  spring  'Ain  Sdlih,  which  rises  on  the 
hill  about  110  yds.  to  the  W.,  and  is  supposed  by  the  Christians, 
curiously  enough,  to  be  the  Sealed  Fountain  of  the  Song  of  Solomon 
(iv.  12).  The  well- house  contains  two  dark  chambers,  in  the 
innermost  of  which  the  water  bubbles  forth  from  the  wall.  The 
different  streams  unite  in  a  basin  of  clear  water,  which  is  conducted 
by  a  channel  to  a  fountain-tower  above  the  first  pool,  part  of  it, 
however,  flowing  into  the  old  conduit  which  passes  the  pools.  There 
is  a  second  fountain  a  little  to  the  S.  of  the  castle;  this  fountain 
unites  with  the  water  of  'Ain  Salih  at  the  fountain- tower. 

The  so-called  *Pools  of  Solomon  (El-Burak),  situated  in  a  small 
valley  at  the  back  of  the  castle,  serve  as  a  reservoir  for  the  old 
aqueduct  of  Jerusalem  (p.  22),  which  has  recently  been  restored. 
They  owe  their  name  to  the  supposition  that  the  gardens  of  Solo- 
mon were  in  the  Wadi  Artas  (p.  109),  and  to  an  arbitrary  inter- 
pretation of  Eccles.  ii.  6,  where  pools  for  irrigation  purposes  are 
mentioned.  According  to  Josephus,  Pilate  built  (or  repaired)  a 
conduit  with  money  taken  from  the  Temple  treasury,  and  an 
attempt  has  been  made  to  connect  this  with  Solomon's  Pools  (comp. 
p.  109).  As  a  matter  of  fact,  there  is  really  no  evidence  whatever 
as  to  the  date  of  the  construction  of  the  reservoir.  There  are  three 
pools,  at  intervals  of  52-53  yds.  from  each  other,  the  second 
being  about  19  ft.  above  the  first,  and  the  third  the  same  height 
above  the  second.  At  the  lower  (E.)  end  of  each  pool  a  wall  is  built 
across  the  valley,  as  is  the  case  with  the  Sultan's  Pool  (p.  69 J. 


POOLS  OF  SOLOMON.  11.  Route.   109 


Tho  Highest  Pool  is  127  yds.  long,  76  yds.  wide  at  the  top  and 
79  yds.  below,  and  at  the  lower  (E.)  end  25  ft.  deep.  It  is  partly 
hewn  in  the  rock,  and  partly  enclosed  by  masonry,  buttresses  being 
used  for  the  support  of  the  walls.  A  staircase  descends  in  the  S.  W. 
corner.  The  Central  Pool  is  141  yds.  long,  53  yds.  wide  at  the  top 
and  83  yds.  below,  and  38  ft.  deep.  It  is  almost  entirely  hewn 
in  the  rock,  and  stairs  descend  in  the  N.  W.  and  N.E.  corners.  In  the 
N.  E.  corner  is  the  mouth  of  a  conduit  from  Ain  Salih  (see  p.  108). 
The  E.  wall  of  the  reservoir  is  very  thick,  and  is  strengthened  by 
a  second  wall  with  a  buttress  in  the  form  of  steps.  The  Lowest 
Pool,  the  finest  of  the  three,  is  194  yds.  long,  49  yds.  wide  at  the 
top  and  69  yds.  below,  and  at  places  48  ft.  deep.  It  is  partly 
hewn  in  the  rock,  and  partly  lined  with  masonry.  Stairs  descend 
in  the  S.E.  and  N.E.  corners.  The  inner  walls  are  supported  by 
numerous  buttresses.  On  the  S.  side  there  is  a  conduit  for  the  re- 
ception of  rain-water.  The  lower  wall  (E.)  is  built  of  large  blocks 
in  the  form  of  steps,  and  is  penetrated  by  an  open  passage  leading 
to  a  chamber.  Similar  chambers,  but  inaccessible,  exist  in  tho 
lower  masonry  of  the  other  pools.  In  the  chamber  of  the  lowest  pool 
rises  the  third  spring,  'Ain  Farujeh,  which  flows  through  a  channel 
into  the  Jerusalem  aqueduct.  A  little  to  the  E.  of  it,  another  spring, 
'Ain  'Atdn,  issues  from  a  little  valley  to  the  S.,  and  runs  into  a  stone 
cistern  on  the  N.  side  of  the  valley  of  the  pools. 

These  springs,  however,  did  not  suffice  for  the  water  supply  of  an- 
cient Jerusalem.  Two  other  large  Conduits  met  at  tho  pools  and  allowed 
their  water  to  flow  into  them.  One  of  these  conduits  runs  above  the  first 
pool  and  was  carried  through  the  valley  of  'Atdn  by  a  tunnel.  Farther 
on  it  runs  to  the  S.  along  the  W.  slope  of  the  Wddi  Deir  el-Bendt  (the 
'Nunnery'),  then  for  3/i  hr.  along  the  bottom  of  the  Wddi  el-Biydr  (Valley 
of  Springs),  in  a  channel  cut  in  the  rock  and  with  openings  in  the  top, 
and  Anally  flows  into  the  spring  Bir  ed-Derej  (Spring  of  the  Steps).  The 
other  conduit,  forming  a  rectangular  channel,  2'/2  ft.  wide,  begins  in  the 
Wddi  el-'Arr&b  (p.  112),  crosses  the  slope  of  the  hills,  and  flows  into  the 
middle  pool.  The  total  length  of  its  remarkable  windings,  amounting  to 
about  47  M.,  corresponds  with  the  statement  of  .Tosephus  (400  stadia).  — 
From  the  pools  the  water  was  carried  to  the  city  in  two  different  conduits. 
The  higher  of  these  conveyed  the  water  from  'Ain  Sdlih  and  the  aqueduct 
of  the  Wddi  el-Biydr  along  the  N.  slope  of  the  valley  of  the  Pools.  It  was 
partly  hewn  in  the  rock ,  partly  constructed  of  masonry.  The  conduit 
descends  near  Rachel's  Tomb  and  then  rises  again:  here  the  water  ran  in 
stone  siphon-pipes.  The  lower  conduit,  still  in  a  state  of  complete 
preservation,  conveyed  water  to  the  city  from  all  the  pools  and  springs 
in  great  windings  about  20  M.  long.  One  arm  of  the  conduit  was  con- 
nected, no  doubt  under  Herod's  government,  with  the  Artas  spring,  and 
conducted  to  the  Frank  Mountain.  The  main  arm  passed  Bethlehem  and 
Rachel's  Tomb  on  the  S.  By  the  bridge  over  the  Valley  of  Hinnom  the 
upper  and  lower  conduits  met,  and  ran  along  the  S.  slope  of  the  W.  hill 
of  Jerusalem  towards  the  temple.  The  upper  conduit  is  the  more  artificial 
construction,  and  is  no  doubt  the  older. 

Descending  the  Wddi  Artds  towards  the  E.  (carriage- road),  we 
find  openings  in  the  conduit  whence  water  can  be  drawn.  "After 
10  min.  we  observe  on  the  opposite  side  of  the  valley,  to  our  right, 
a  conical  hill  with  ruins  and  rock-tombs,  probably  the  site  of  the 

7* 


lioute  11. 


CAVE  OF  ADULLAM.      From  Jerusalem 


ancient  Etam  (1  Chron.  iv.  3),  tho  name  of  which  is  still  preserve- 1  in 
'Am  'Atdn  (p.  109).  In  7  min.  more  we  perceive  to  the  right  below 
ns  the  village  of  Artds,  chiefly  inhabited  by  Muslims. 

From  Artas  to  Bethlehem.  Tho  road  continues  to  follow  the  conduit. 
After  8  min."  a  view  of  the  town  is  obtained  in  front;  in  '/i  ur-  more 
the  foot  of  the  hill  is  reached,  and  the  ascent  is  made  in  10  minutes. 

Farther  on  the  road  descends  the  valley.  After  20  min.  a  small 
lateral  valley  descends  from  Bethlehem  on  the  left,  while  the  main 
valley,  along  which  the  road  now  continues,  curves  to  the  S.E.  Our 
route  freq\iently  crosses  the  dry  and  stony  bed  of  the  brook.  After 
J/4  hr.  we  observe  the  ruins  of  mills  on  the  rock  to  the  right.  After 
*/2  hr.  we  leave  the  Wadi  Artas  and  ascend  a  lateral  valley  to  the 
right  (S.W. ).  After  about  10  min.  this  valley  makes  a  sharp  bend 
to  tho  left(S.) ;  another  lateral  valley  descends  from  tho  right  (N.W.). 

Proceeding  farther  up  the  valley  to  the  S.,  we  come  in  about  3/«  hr. 
to  KHrbet  TekH'a,  the  ancient  Tekoah,  on  the  summit  of  a  long  hill, 
2790  ft.  above  the  level  of  the  sea.  At  the  foot,  is  a  spring.  The  place 
was  fortified  by  Eehoboam ,  and  was  celebrated  as  the  birthplace  of  the 
prophet  Amos,  who  was  originally  a  herdsman  (Amos  i.  1).  The  ruins  are 
a  shapeless  mass  ;  the  remains  of  a  church  (there  was  a  monastery  here  in 
the  middle  ages)  may  still  be  recognized,  and  an  octagonal  font,  is  to  be  seen. 

At  this  bend  we  leave  the  valley  and  ascend  the  steep  hillside 
to  the  E.  At  the  top  we  again  see  Bethlehem.  In  20  min.  wo 
descend  to  the  spring  of  Khareitun,  named  Btr  el-'Aineiztyeh;  by  the 
rock  opposite  lies  the  ancient  ruined  'lauTa',  or  monkish  settlement 
of  Khareit&n,  and  before  us  opens  a  deep  gorge.  The  whole  scene  is 
very  imposing.  We  now  descend  on  foot  by  a  path  to  the  right 
along  the  hills  to  the  traditional  Cave  of  Adullam  (now  called  El- 
Ma'sd  or  Mughdret  Khareilun),  which  has  been  identified  since  the 
12th  cent,  with  tho  fastness  in  which  David  sought  refuge  (comp. 
p.  124).  In  the  Christian  period  it  was  occupied  by  St.  Chariton 
(d.  410),  and  later  also  by  other  hermits.  The  opening  is  partly 
blocked  by  fallen  rocks.  The  cavern  is  a  natural  labyrinthine  grotto 
formed  by  the  erosion  of  water,  and,  as  the  explorer  may  easily  lose 
his  way,  he  should  be  provided  with  a  cord  of  at  least  200  yds.  in 
length,  or  better  with  a  guide.  The  temperature  in  the  interior  is 
somewhat  high,  and  coat  and  waistcoat  may  be  advantageously  left 
at  the  entrance.  The  galleries  are  sometimes  so  low  as  to  be  passable 
by  creeping  only,  but  they  sometimes  expand  into  large  chambers. 
In  many  places  the  ground  sounds  hollow,  as  there  are  several 
stories  of  passages,  one  above  another.  The  innermost  passages 
contain  niches  cut  in  the  rock,  and  the  fragments  of  urns  and  sarco- 
phagi found  here  indicate  that  the  place  was  once  used  for  interments. 
The  inscriptions  found  in  the  inmost  recesses  are  illegible. 

From  the  Wddi  Artds,  and  a  little  above  the  point  at  which  we 
left  it,  a  road  ascends  to  the  N.E.  to  the  (1  hr.)  — 

Frank  Mountain  (2490  ft.),  so  called  because  the  Crusaders 
here  offered  their  last  prolonged  resistance  to  the  Muslims.  The 
Arabic  name  is  Jebel  el-Fureidis  ('paradise'  or  'orchard'). 


to  the  Frank  Mt.       FRANK  MOUNTAIN.  11.  Route.    Ill 

The  attempted  identification  with  Beth  Haccerem  (Jer.  vi.  1)  fails  of 
proof.  Josephus  says  (Ant.  xv.  9,  4,  etc.)  that  Herod  founded  the  castle  of 
Herodium  ncur  Tekoah  and  about  BO  stadia  to  the  8.  of  Jerusalem.  This 
distance  and  the  further  description  of  the  castle  seem  to  fit  the  present 
ruins.  Josephus  states  that  the  hill  was  thrown  up  artificially,  a  state- 
ment which  is  correct,  if  the  rounded  top  only  of  the  hill  be  taken  into 
account.  He  also  informs  us  that  Herod  was  buried  here.  Herodium 
was  the  seat  of  a  toparchy.  After  the  overthrow  of  Jerusalem  it  surrendered 
without  a  blow  to  the  legate,  Lucilius  Bassus. 

At  the  foot  of  the  hill ,  on  the  W.  side,  are  some  ruins  called 
Stall  (stable)  by  the  natives,  and  a  large  reservoir,  called  Birket 
Bint  es-Sultdn  (pool  of  the  sultan's  daughter),  81  yds.  long  and 
49  broad,  but  now  dry.  In  the  middle  of  it  rises  a  square  struc- 
ture, resembling  an  island.  Remains  of  the  conduit  from  the  Artas 
spring  (p.  109)  are  also  visible.  On  the  N.  we  see  traces  of  the 
great  flight  of  200  steps  mentioned  by  Josephus.  The  summit  of  the 
hill,  which  rises  in  an  abrupt  (35°)  conical  form  to  a  height  of  about 
330  ft. ,  may  be  reached  in  10  minutes.  The  castle  which  once  stood 
here  has  disappeared  with  the  exception  of  the  enclosing  wall,  of 
which  the  chief  traces  are  the  remains  of  four  round  towers  men- 
tioned by  Josephus.  The  E.  tower  contains  a  vaulted  chamber  with 
a  mosaic  pavement.  The  large,  regular,  and  finely  hewn  blocks  of 
stone  which  lie  on  the  plateau  at  the  top  and  on  the  slopes  of  the 
hill  are  excellent  specimens  of  the  masonry  used  in  the  buildings 
of  Herod  (p.  xciv). 

The  *View  is  beautiful.  It  embraces  to  the  E.  the  desert  region 
extending  down  to  the  neighbourhood  of  the  Dead  Sea,  with  a  pro- 
fusion of  wild  cliffs,  between  which  a  great  part  of  the  blue  sheet  of 
water  is  visible.  To  the  S.  the  view  is  intercepted  by  hills.  To  the 
S.W.  are  the  ruins  of  Tekoah  and  the  village  of  Khareitun.  To  the 
W.S.  W.  is  the  weli  of  Abu  Nejeim,  and  to  the  N.W.  Bethlehem ;  to  the 
right  of  it  Beit  Sahfir,  and  in  the  foreground  BeitlVarnir;  on  a  hill 
rises  Mar  Elyas.  To  the  N.  are  En-Nebi  Samwil  and  the  village  of  Abu 
Dis.   Farther  oil'  stretches  the  chain  of  hills  to  the  N.  of  Jerusalem. 

The  Road  to  Bethlehem  ascends  to  the  N.W.,  at  first  along  the 
Wudi  ed-Diya'.  After  i/^  lir.  we  leave  the  abandoned  village  of 
Beit  Ta'umir  (with  traces  of  ancient  buildings)  on  a  hill  to  our  right. 
After  25  min.  the  way  begins  to  descend  into  the  Wcidi  er-Rdhib, 
to  the  S.  of  Bethlehem,  and  in  '/a  nr-  more  it  reaches  the  floor  of  the 
valley,  whence  it  ascends  to  Bethlehem  (p.  101)  in  l/4  hr. 


12.  From  Jerusalem  to  Hebron. 

23  M.  Good  Road.  Time  required:  for  carriages  4'/2hrs.,  for  riders 
ti  brs.  (com p.  p.  19).  Price  for  a  carriage  26  l'r.,  or  if  a  night  be  spent 
out  35  fr.     Uragoman  advisable. 

From  Jerusalem  to  the  Pools  of  Solomon  (S^hrs.),  see  p.  108. 
Our  route  ascends  gradually  past  the  highest  pool  to  the  hill  towards 
the  S.W.  ('/4  hr.),  where  we  obtain  a  line  retrospect  of  Bethlehem 


112 


Route  12. 


EETH-ZUR. 


From  Jerusalem 


and  the  Mount  of  Olives.  As  we  proceed  we  see  the  ruins  of  Deir  el- 
Benat  on  the  right;  to  the  left,  far  below,  is  the  deep  Wadi  el-Fu- 
heimish,  or  Wadi  el-Biyar.  Our  road  runs  in  great  windings  along 
the  slopes  of  the  hills  round  the  ravines  of  the  lateral  valleys  of  the 
Wadi  el-Biyar.  On  the  right  is  Khirbet  Beit  Zakaryd  (Beth-Zachariah ; 
1  Mace.  vi.  32  ot  seq.),  where  Judas  Maccahacus  was  defeated  by 
Antiochus  Eupator,  on  the  left  Khirbet  Beit  Faghur.  After  40  niin. 
we  cross  the  Wadi  el-Biyar  near  its  head  and  come  to  a  small  plateau. 
On  our  right  is  Khirbet  Beit  Sawir.  In  20  min.  we  reach  Khirbet 
Beit  Sha'r,  on  the  right,  with  a  new  settlement;  farther  off,  on  the 
hill,  is  Beit  Vmmar  (perhaps  Ma'arath,  Josh.  xv.  59),  and  near  it 
are  the  ruins  of  Khirbet  Jedur  (Gedor,  Josh.  xv.  58).  We  descend 
into  the  broad  Wadi  el- Arriib,  and  in  V^r.,  about  halfway  between 
Jerusalem  and  Hebron  (14  M.  from  the  former),  we  reach  the  — 

Bridge  over  the  'Arriib,  where  the  coachman  generally  halts  for 
some  time  at  a  small  cafe'.  To  the  right  and  left  of  the  road  are 
copious  springs;  immediately  to  the  right  (W.)  of  the  bridge  is  a 
well-room.  A  portion  of  the  water  is  brought  by  a  subterranean 
conduit  from  the  isolated  ruin-strewn  hill  to  the  W.  On  this  hill 
lie  the  extensive  ruins  of  Khirbet  Ktifin. 

About  10  min.  below  the  bridge  is  a  large  but  now  dry  reservoir 
known  as  Birket  el-' Arriib.  This  reservoir  (80  yds.  long  by  53'/2  yds.  broad) 
is  of  similar  construction  to  Solomon's  Pools,  and  is  connected  with  tbem 
by  the  conduit  mentioned  at  p.  109. 

From  the  bridge  the  road  ascends  past  a  (10  min.)  pool  (Birket 
Ktifin)  partly  hewn  in  the  rock,  the  water  from  which  used  also  to 
be  conducted  to  the  Birket  el-fArrub;  it  is  dry  in  summer.  On  the 
S.  side  of  the  hill,  a  few  paces  to  the  right  of  the  road,  are  several 
handsome  rock-tombs  and  small  caverns.  After  3/^  hr.  we  reach  the 
spring  of  'A in  ed-Virweh,  above  which  are  a  Mohammedan  house  and 
a  praying-place.  In  the  time  of  Eusebius  the  spring  in  which  Philip 
baptized  the  eunuch  was  pointed  out  here  (comp.  p.  93),  and  it  is  so 
marked  on  the  mosaic  map  of  Madeba  (p.  147).  The  traces  of  an 
ancient  Christian  church  were  formerly  visible.  A  little  way  to  the 
S.  there  are  tomb-chambers  in  the  artificially  hewn  and  levelled 
stratum  of  rock.  At  the  top  of  the  hill  are  ruins  called  Beit  Stir, 
which  answer  to  the  ancient  Beth-Zur  (Josh.  xv.  58;  Nehern.  iii.  16). 
At  the  period  of  the  Maccabees  Beth-Zur  was  a  place  of  great 
importance.  A  little  farther  on  (5  min.)  the  Mohammedan  village 
of  Halhtil  (Josh.  xv.  58)  becomes  visible  on  a  hill  to  the  left.  The 
mosque  of  Nebi  Yunus,  outside  the  village,  is  built,  according  to 
Mohammedan  tradition,  over  the  grave  of  the  prophet  Jonah.  Some 
of  the  later  Jewish  writers  mention  a  tradition  that  the  prophet  Gad 
was  buried  here  (2  Sam.  xxiv.  11).  There  arc  rook-tombs  in  the 
neighbourhood. 

After  35  min.  we  perceive  about  500  yds.  to  the  left  of  the 
road  the  ruins  of  a  so-called  Sanctuary  of  Abraham,  Haram  Rdmet 
el-Khalil.    The  S.  and  W.  walls  only  are  preserved  (71  yds.  and 


■■ 


,6  rnpJi  £et33?T3p3^ 


to  Hebron. 


HEBRON. 


12.  Route, 


113 


53  V2  yds-  l°nS  respectively),  ami  two  or  three  courses  of  stone  aro 
still  visible.  The  hlocks  are  of  great  length  (10-16  ft.)  and  are 
jointed  without  mortar.  In  the  N.W.  angle  of  the  interior  there  is 
a  cistern.  "What  purpose  the  building  served,  and  whether  it  was 
ever  completed,  cannot  now  he  ascertained.  Jewish  tradition  places 
here  the  Grove  of  Mamre,  and  the  valley  is  still  called  the  Valley 
of  Terebinths  (pp.  115,  124).  About  60  paces  farther  to  the  E.  is  a 
large  ruined  church,  probably  the  basilica  erected  by  Constantine 
at  the  terebinth  of  Mamre.  Near  it  are  two  oil-presses  in  the  rock. 
A  large  cistern  5  min.  farther  to  the  S.  is  shown  as  the  bath  of  Sarah. 
Returning  to  the  road,  we  come,  a  few  paces  farther  on,  to  an  in- 
different footpath  on  the  right,  which  leads  past  the  ruins  of  the  vil- 
lage of Khirbet  en-Nasilra  ('ruin  of  the  Christians'),  or Ruj&m Sebun, 
and  proceeds  direct  to  (V2  hr.)  the  Russian  hospice^  the  tower  of 
which  is  visible  from  afar.  Following  the  road,  we  gradually  descend 
the  hill,  pass  the  hospital  of  the  Scots  Mission  (see  below),  and 
reach  the  small  town  of  El-KhalU  (Hebron)  in  about  1/2  hr. 

Hebron.  —  Accommodation.  Russian  Hospice,  near  Abraham's  Oak 
(p.  115;  good  lodging  but  without  board;  during  the  season  a  letter  of 
recommendation  from  the  superintendent  of  the  Russian  Buildings  at 
Jerusalem  is  necessary).  In  case  of  necessity  male  travellers  can  obtain 
accommodation  in  some  Jewish  Houses.  The  price  should  be  fixed  before- 
hand. —  Turkish  Post  Office.  —  It  is  advisable  to  take  a  Guide  (6-12  pi. ; 
more  in  proportion  for  a  party),  as  the  Muslims  here  are  notorious  for 
their  fanaticism.  Travellers  are  earnestly  warned  against  that  arrant 
beggar,  the  son  of  the  deceased  old  sheikh  Hamza. 

The  Scots  Mission  has  a  hospital  here  (physician,  Dr.  Paterson).  The 
German  Jerusalem  Society  maintains  a  native  teacher,  who  also  conducts 
Protestant  service  in  the  Arabic  tongue. 

History.  Hebron  is  a  town  of  boar  antiquity.  Mediseval  tradition 
localized  the  creation  of  Adam  here ;  and  at  a  very  early  period,  owing  to 
a  misinterpretation  of  Joshua  xiv.  15 ,  where  Arba  is  spoken  of  as  the 
greatest  man  among  the  Anakim  (giants),  Adam's  death  was  placed  here. 
The  ancient  name  of  Hebron  was  Kirjalh  Arba  ('city  of  Arba').  In  Num- 
bers xiii.  22  it  is  claimed  that  Hebron  was  founded  seven  years  before 
Zoan,  i.e.  Tanis,  the  chief  town  of  Lower  Egypt.  Abraham  is  also  stated  to 
have  pitched  his  tent  under  the  oaks  of  Mamre,  the  Amorite  (Gen.  xiii.  18, 
xiv.  13).  When  Sarah  died  (Gen.  xxiii.)  Abraham  purchased  fromKphron 
the  Hittite  the  double  cavern  of  Maclipelah  as  a  family  burial-place ;  and  Isaac 
and  Jacob  were  also  said  to  be  buried  here.  Hebron  was  destroyed  by  Joshua 
(Josh.  x.  37)  and  became  the  chief  city  of  the  tribe  of  Caleb  (Josh.  xiv.  13). 
David  spent  a  long  time  in  the  regionof  Hebron.  After  Saul's  death  David 
ruled  over  Judah  from  Hebron  for  V/t  years.  It  was  at  the  gates  of  Hebron 
that  Abner  was  slain  by  Joab,  and  David  caused  the  murderers  of 
Ishbosheth,  the  son  of  Saul,  to  be  hanged  by  the  pool  of  Hebron.  Hebron 
afterwards  became  the  headquarters  of  the  rebellious  Absalom.  It  was 
fortified  by  Rehoboam,  and  repeopled  after  the  captivity.  Judas  Macca- 
baeus  had  to  recapture  it  from  the  Edomites,  and  Josephus  reckons  H  as 
a  town  of  Idumeea.  Hebron  was  next  destroyed  by  the  Romans.  During 
the  Muslim  period  Hebron  regained  much  of  its  old  importance,  partly  by 
its  commerce,  and  partly  as  a  sacred  place  owing  to  its  connection  with 
Abraham  (coinp.  p.  Ixvii) ,  to  whom  its  Arabian  name  refers  (see  p.  114). 
The  Crusaders  called  Hebron  the  Castellum ,  or  Praesidium  ad  Sanctum 
Abraham.  Godfrey  de  Bouillon  invested  the  knight  Gerard  of  Avesnes 
with  the  place  as  a  feudal  fief.  In  1167  it  became  the  seat  of  a  Latin 
bishop,   but  in  1187  it  fell  into  the  hands  ofSaladin. 


114   Route  12. 


HEBRON. 


Haram . 


Hebron,  Arabic  EL-KhalU  (abbreviated  from  Khalil  er-rahmau, 
'friend  of  God',  i.  e.  'the  city  of  Abraham,  the  friend  of  God'),  the 
capita1,  cf  a  Kaimmakamlik  (p.  lvii),  contains  18-19,000  inhab., 
including  1500  Jews  (with  three  synagogues).  It  lies  3040  ft.  above 
the  level  of  the  sea,  in  the  narrow  part  of  a  valley  descending  from 
the  N.  W.  The  environs  abound  in  springs  and  are  extremely  fertile. 
The  Jews  make  good  wine  from  the  grapes  grown  in  the  vicinity 
(comp.  p.  116),  and  almond  and  apricot  trees  also  flourish.  The  place 
has  also  some  commercial  importance  and  carries  on  a  brisk  trade  with 
theBeduins.  The  chief  branches  of  industry  are  the  manufacture  of 
water-skins  from  goats'  hides,  and  glass-making.  Glass  was  manu- 
factured here  as  early  as  the  middle  ages,  and  the  principal  articles 
made  are  lamps  and  coloured  glass  rings  used  by  the  women  as 
ornaments.    A  visit  to  the  glass-furnaces  is  not  uninteresting. 

The  present  town  is  divided  into  seven  districts.  1.  In  the  N.W., 
the  Hdret  esh-Sheilch,  deriving  its  name  from  the  beautiful  Mosque 
(begun  In  608,  or  A.D.  1260-70)  of  the  Sheikh  'Ali  Balckd,  a  pious 
man  who  died  in  670  (A.D.  1271-72).  Above  this  quarter  is  the 
aqueduct  of  the  Kashkala  spring,  near  which  there  are  ancient 
grottoes  and  rock-tombs.  From  the  spring  a  path  leads  to  the  top 
of  the  hill  Hobdl  er-Riyuh.  2.  Hdret  Bab  ez-Z&wiych,  adjoining 
the  first  quarter  on  the  W.  To  the  S.  of  the  second  quarter  is 
(3)  Hdret  el-Kazzazm  (of  the  glass-blowers),  and  to  the  E.  (4)  Ravel 
el-'Akkdbi  (water-skin  makers).  Farther  to  the  S.  arc  (5)  Hdret 
el-Haram  and  (6)  Haret  el-Mmhdreka,  the  latter  on  the  slope  on 
the  other  side.  To  the  S.E.  lies  (7)  Hdret  el-Kitun,  or  quarter 
of  the  cotton-workers.  —  Ancient  Hebron  lay  to  the  W.,  on  the 
olive-covered  hill  Rumeideh,  to  the  N.W.  of  the  Quarantine  (see  be- 
low). On  this  hill  are  ruins  of  old  cyclopean  walls  and  modern  build- 
ings called  Deir  el-Arha'in,  'the  monastery  of  the  forty'  (martyrs); 
within  the  ruins  is  the  tomb  of  Jesse  (Isai),  David's  father.  At  the 
E.  foot  of  the  hill  is  the  deep  spring  of  Sarah,  'Ain  Jedideh. 

In  the  bed  of  the  valley  to  the  S.W.  of  the  Ilaret  el-Haram 
are  situated  two  large  reservoirs:  the  tipper  one,  called  Birket  el- 
Kazztizln,  or  Pool  of  the  Glass-blowers,  is  28  yds.  in  length,  18  yds. 
in  width,  and  27J/2  ft.  in  depth;  the  lower  basin,  constructed  of 
hewn  stones,  is  square  in  form,  each  side  being  44  yds.  long,  and 
is  called  Birket  es-Sulldn.  These  pools  are  unquestionably  ancient, 
and  according  to  tradition,  it  was  near  the  latter  that  David  hanged 
the  murderers  of  Ishbosheth  (p.  113).  Close  to  the  Birket  es-Sultan 
stands  the  new  Serdi.  The  tombs  of  Abner  and  Ishbosheth  shown 
in  the  town  are  not  worth  visiting.  —  The  large  building  on  the 
hill  of  Kubb  cl-Jdnib,  to  the  S.,  is  the  Quarantine. 

The  only  object  of  interest  is  the  Haram,  the  sacred  area  which 
encloses  the  legendary  site  of  the  Cave  of  Machpelah  (p.  113)  and 
contains  a  mosque  and  the  dwellings  of  dervishes,  saints,  and 
guardians.    Up  to  a  height  of  about  39  ft.  the  enclosing  wall  is  built 


Oak  of  Mamre. 


HEBRON. 


12.  Route. 


115 


of  very  large  blocks,  all  drafted,  hewn  smooth,  and  showing  the  marks 
of  the  Herodiau  period  (pp.  63,  64,  xciv).  This  wall  is  strengthened 
externally  by  square  buttresses,  sixteen  on  each  side  and  eight  at  each 
end,  of  which  two  still  exist  (N.W.  and  S.E.).  The  Muslims  have  also 
erected  a  second  and  modern  enclosing  wall  on  the  N.E.  and  S. 
sides.  Two  flights  of  steps  between  this  wall  and  the  old  one  lead 
to  the  court  in  the  interior,  which  is  14'^ ft-  above  the  street-level. 
'Unbelievers'  may  ascend  to  the  seventh  step  of  the  flight  on  the  E. 
side.  Beside  the  fifth  step  is  a  large  stone  with  a  hole  in  it,  which 
the  Jews  believe  to  extend  down  to  the  tomb.  On  Friday  the  Jews 
lament  here  as  they  do  at  the  Place  of  Wailing  in  Jerusalem  (p.  65). 
—  No  Europeans,  except  a  few  of  high  rank,  have  hitherto  been 
admitted  to  the  interior  of  the  Haram.  From  the  elevation  to  the 
N.  of  the  Haram  a  sight  of  the  court  and  the  buildings  within  the 
walls  may  be  obtained,  and  good  photographs  of  it  may  be  purchased. 
The  Mosque,  which  occupies  the  S.  side  of  the  Haram  and  is  bounded 
on  three  sides  by  the  old  enclosing  wall ,  is  a  building  erected  by  the 
Crusaders  in  UG7-87,  probably  on  the  site  of  a  church  of  the  Justinian 
era,  and  has  been  restored  by  the  Arabs.  It  is  70  It.  long  from  N.  to  S. 
and  93  ft.  from  E.  to  W.  The  interior  is  divided  by  4  columns  into  a 
nave  and  aisles  running  N.  and  S.  The  capitals  of  these  columns  appear 
to  be  partly  Byzantine,  partly  mediaeval.  The  walls  of  the  church  are 
incrusted  to  a  height  of  nearly  6  ft.  with  marble  ,  above  which  runs  a 
band  with  an  Arabic  inscription.  Two  openings  in  the  floor  of  the  church 
lead  direct  to  the  Cave  of  Machpelah  beneath,  which  is  said  to  consist  of 
various  passages  and  chambers.  Above  ground  are  six  cenotaphs,  hung 
with  green  cloth  embroidered  with  gold  and  silver,  which  are  said  to 
stand  exactly  over  the  tombs  below.  The  cenotaphs  of  Isaac  and  Rebecca 
are  inside  the  church,  those  of  Abraham  and  Sarah  in  octagonal  chapels 
in  the  open  court  to  the  N.  of  the  church,  those  of  Jacob  and  Leah  in 
chambers  at  the  N.  end  of  the  Ilaram.  —  Outside  the  Haram,  at  the  N.W. 
angle,  is  a  two -story  Building,  containing  two  cenotaphs  of  Joseph. 
A  footprint  of  the  Prophet  Mohammed  is  still  shown  in  a  stone  here.  — 
The  oldest  Arabian  buildings  date  from  1381,  under  the  Mameluke  Sultan 
Mohammed  Ibn  Kilawun  ;  Joseph's  tomb  dates  from  1393. 

Adjoining  the  Ilaram  on  the  S.  side  is  a  'castle',  now  used  as 
barracks  and  half  in  ruins. 

The  traditional  Oak  of  Abraham  or  Oak  of  Mamre  is  in  the 
garden  of  the  Russian  Hospice  (p.  113),  which  we  reach  in  l/a  hr.  by  a 
road  (practicable  for  carriages)  diverging  to  the  left  from  the  Jeru- 
salem road,  and  leading  between  vineyard  walls.  This  fine  tree, 
which  unfortunately  is  slowly  dying,  was  highly  revered  as  far 
back  as  the  16th  cent.,  and  is  unquestionably  of  great  age.  For  the 
earlier  (Jewish)  tradition,  see  p.  113.  The  trunk  of  the  oak  is 
about  32  ft.  in  circumference  at  the  bottom.  Behind  the  hospice 
stands  a  View  Tower  (key  in  the  hospice),  which  commands  a  magni- 
ficent *View  extending  to  the  sea. 

In  the  country  to  the  W.  of  Jordan,  the  oak  (el-balliH,  Quercus  ilex  pseu- 
dococcifera)  does  not,  as  beyond  Jordan,  develop  into  a  large  tree,  but,  as 
the  young  shoots  are  eaten  off  by  the  goats,  it  usually  takes  the  form  of 
bushes  only.  A  few  gigantic  trees  have  been  allowed  to  grow  up  un- 
molested, owing  probably  to  superstitious  veneration. 


116 


13.  From  Hebron  to  Beit  Jibrin  and  Gaza. 

From  Hebron  to  Beit  Jibrin ,  4  hrs.  on  horseback ;  thence  to  Qaza 
ca.  9  hrs.  —  For  this  tour  a  guide  is  desirable.  —  Visitors  to  the  touibs 
of' Beit  Jibrin  must  first  obtain  the  permission  of  Ihe  Kaimmakam  of 
Hebron  (candles  required). 

We  follow  the  Jerusalem  road  to  the  point  where  the  route  to 
the  Russian  Hospice  diverges  (^hr.,  see  p.  115J.  Here  we  turn  to 
the  left  (W.)  and  descend  the  Wadi  el-Kuf;  on  a  hill  to  the  right 
is  Beit  Isk&hil,  perhaps  theEshcol  ('valley  of  grapes')  of  Numbers  xiii. 
24  et  seq.,  whence  the  Israelitish  spies  brought  back  the  huge  bunch 
of  grapes.  In  lhr.  we  reach  the  spring  of  'Ain  el-Kuf.  The  valley 
now  expands,  turns  to  the  W.,  and  receives  the  name  of  Wadi  el- 
Merj.  On  the  (^hr.")  hill  to  the  left  lies  Terkumya  (Tricomias), 
with  a  few  antiquities.  In  1^2  hr.  the  road  skirts  the  base  of  another 
bill  on  the  left,  upon  which  is  Deir  Nakhkhds.  In  '/2  hr.  we  enter 
Beit  Jibrin  from  the  N.  E. 

Fkom  Jekusalem  to  Beit  Jibein,  8»/4  hrs.  To  (2'/4  hrs.)  the  Pools  of 
Solomon,  see  p.  108.  Before  reaching  the  pools  we  diverge  by  a  road  to 
the  right  CSV.),  which  leads  via  (1/4  hr.)  El-Khadr  (p.  103).  In  35  min.  we 
see  Htisdn  at  some  distance  to  the  right;  to  the  left  opens  the  Wadi  Fukin. 
After  ife  hr.  the  road  to  Beit  'Atab  diverges  to  the  right,  while  our  route 
proceeds  (1.)  to  the  S.W.  3/4hr.  Hill  with  extensive  ruins  (on  the  left);  V'^hr. 
'Ain  et-Tannir,  deep  down  in  the  valley,  with  lemon-groves;  10  min.  Ruins 
(to  the  left).  We  are  now  following  an  old  Roman  road.  After  40  min. 
a  road  diverges  to  the  right  to  Beit  Nettif  (p.  124);  we,  however,  descend 
to  the  left.  20  min.  Roman  milestone  (prostrate);  1/ghr.  we  cross  the  dry 
bed  of  the  Wddi  es-Sant;  to  the  left  a  vveli  on  a  hill.  In  '/<  hr.  a  road 
diverges  to  the  left  (which  we  do  not  follow)  ;  to  the  right  Zakarya  (p.  124) 
is  visible.  In  '/a  ur-  our  route  enters  the  Wddi  Zakartid  (left)  and  leads  to 
the  S.  across  a  well-cultivated  plain ,  with  frequent  traces  of  the  Roman 
road.  Beyond  an  ancient  well,  with  reservoirs,  we  reach  (1/j  hr.)  Beit  Jibrin. 

The  village  of  Beit  Jibrin  ('House  of  Gabriel'),  containing  about 
900  Muslim  inhab.,  lies  between  three  hills,  the  Tell  Borntit  on 
the  N.W.,  the  Tell  Sandahanneh  on  the  S.,  and  the  Tell  el-Judeiyideh 
on  the  N.E. 

The  Israelitish  town  was  known  as  Mareshah  and  stood  originally  about 
1  M.  farther  to  the  S.  on  the  Tell  Sandahanneh,  which  overlooks  the 
roads  from  Gaza  to  Hebron  and  Jerusalem.'  The  old  name  reappears  in 
Khirbet  Merdsh,  '/a  M.  to  the  N.W.  The  town  was  fortified  by  Uehoboaui 
(2  Chron.  xi.  8),  and  after  the  Exodus  became  an  Edomite  capital.  Under 
the  Ptolemies  a  large  settlement  of  Phoenicians  was  established  here.  The 
town,  which  was  destroyed  by  the  Parthians  in  B.C  40,  reappears  in  A.D.  68, 
under  the  new  name  of  Baitogabra,  as  a  fortress  standing  on  the  present 
site  (see  Bell.  Jud.  iv.  8,  1,  where  the  name  is  erroneously  given  as 
Betabris).  The  town  received  various  privileges  coupled  with  the  name 
Eleutheropolis,  or  Lucia  Seplimia  Severiana,  from  the  Roman  emperor 
Septimius  Severus  in  202,  on  the  occasion  of  his  journey  in  the  East. 
It  was  the  seat  of  a  Christian  bishop  as  early  as  the  4th  century.  The 
Crusaders  found  the  place  in  ruins ;  they  called  it  Gibelin.  Under  Fulke 
of  Anjou,  in  1134,  a  citadel  was  erected  here.  In  1244  Gibelin  _y\  as  linally 
taken  by  Beibars  (p.  lxxxivl.  Tho  fortress  was  restored  in  1551.  Comp. 
'Excavations  in  Palestine  during  the  years  1898- 1900'  (Pal.  Expl.  Fund); 
F.  Peters  &  H.  Thiersch,  'Painted  Tombs  in  the  Necropolis  of  Marissa'  (Pal. 
Expl.  Fund;  1905). 

The  village  occupies  about  one-third  of  the  site  of  the  ancient 
town.     Ruins  of  old  buildings  are  incorporated  with  most  of  the 


BEIT  JIBRIN. 


13.  Route.    117 


houses.  A  portion  of  the  ancient  wall,  perhaps  huilt  hy  theCrusaders 
in  1134,  still  exists  on  the  N.  side;  it  was  formerly  flanked  hy  a 
moat.  To  the  N.W.  and  E.  were  forts.  At  the  E.  fort  there  still 
exist  fragments  of  columns,  a  fine  large  portal,  and  a  reservoir.  The 
N.W.  fort  (small  fee)  stood  on  an  eminence,  and  the  ancient  sub- 
structions are  still  easily  distinguished  from  the  later  work.  Over 
the  door  is  an  inscription  dating  from  the  year  958  of  the  Hegira 
(1551).  The  fortress  was  flanked  with  a  tower  at  each  corner.  The 
interior  contains  a  handsome  cistern  and  many  vaulted  chambers 
now  used  as  dwellings.  On  the  S.  side  runs  a  gallery  from  E.  to  W., 
which  was  originally  the  aisle  of  a  church.  On  the  left  and  right 
are  five  piers,  formerly  enriched  with  columns  in  white  marble  and 
with  Corinthian  capitals.   The  arcades  are  pointed. 

The  chief  objects  of  interest  are  the  Hock  Caverns  ('orak  or 
'arak)  in  the  vicinity  (comp.  p.  124).  The  caverns  consist  of 
round,  bell-vaulted  chambers,  20-50 ft.  (in  some  cases  even  100  ft.) 
in  diameter,  supported  by  detached  pillars.  They  are  30-40  ft.  in 
height.  Each  cavern  is  lighted  from  above  by  a  well-like  opening. 
The  stone,  a  kind  of  grey  chalk  ,  is  so  soft  that  it  can  be  cut  with  a 
knife,  yet  the  regularity  and  art  with  which  the  chambers  have  been 
excavated  are  none  the  less  admirable.  Most  of  these  caverns  date 
back  to  the  ancient  Hebraic  or  some  even  earlier  period.  Their  number 
and  similarity  lead  to  the  inference  that  they  were  used  as  dwellings ; 
some  of  them  are  connected  with  each  other.  St.  Jerome  informs  us 
that  the  Horlm,  or  dwellers  in  mountains  and  caves,  once  lived  in 
this  district,  and  that  the  Idumxans  lived  in  caverns  throughout  the 
country  from  here  to  Petra,  in  order  to  escape  from  the  intensity 
of  the  heat.  Some  of  the  caverns  seem  to  have  been  used  as  chapels, 
as  they  have  apses  turned  towards  the  E.  and  crosses  engraved  on 
their  walls. 

The  following  walk  is  the  most  interesting  here.  We  descend  from 
tbe  fortress  to  the  S.  E.,  pass  the  tombs,  and  ascend  a  small  water-course. 
In  O  min.  we  observe  caverns  below  us.  To  judge  from  the  niches  hewn 
in  them  (five  at  the  back,  three  on  each  side),  they  must  once  have  been 
used  as  sepulchres.  The  niches  are  2  ft.  above  the  ground ,  and  high 
above  them  are  hewn  numerous  triangles  (possibly  for  lamps).  Some  of 
the  round  openings  above  have  been  widened  in  the  course  of  ages. 
After  the  falling  in  of  the  chambers  there  have  also  been  formed  open 
spaces  in  front-  of  them,  within  which  the  pillars  of  the  groups  of  cham- 
bers are  still  preserved.  —  Farther  to  the  S.  is  a  second  group  of  more 
lofty  grottoes.  One  of  them  contains  a  well,  and  at  several  places  the  ground 
sounds  hollow.  The  walls  are  green  with  moisture  and  very  smooth.  Rudely 
engraved  crosses,  and  inscriptions  dating  from  the  early  period  of  Islamism 
(in  Culic  characters),  are  sometimes  observed.  The  marks  of  tools  are 
clearly  visible  on  the  walls.  Proceeding  from  one  cavern  to  another,  we 
ascend  the  valley  as  far  as  a  ruined  church ,  which  in  a  straight  line  is 
only  1  M.  from  the  village.  It  is  still  called  by  the  natives  Mdr  Hannd,  or 
Sandahanneh.  The  substructions  of  this  church  date  from  the  Byzantine 
period",  but  the  ground-plan  was  altered  by  the  Crusaders.  The  principal 
apse  is  well-preserved.  The  window-arches  are  round.  The  stones  are 
carefully  hewn,  and  the  walls  are  massive.  On  each  side  of  the  entrance 
are  pilasters ,  and  under  the  N.  aisle  is  a  crypt  with  vaults.  Opposite 
the  church  is  the  cavern  Mwjhdret  Sandahanneh,  comprizing  several  chain- 


118   Route  13. 


TELL  EL-HASI. 


From  Hebron 


hers,  the  largest  of  which  is  100  ft.  in  diameter.  Not  far  off,  to  the  W., 
is  the  passage  of  Es-SM,  a  tunnel  over  33  yds.  long,  with  two  cross-galleries, 
containing  no  less  than  1906  small  niches  (columbaria),  which  served  as 
receptacles  for  cinerary  urns.  —  The  whole  chain  of  hills  of  Mar  Hanna, 
is  honeycomhed  with  caverns,  especially  on  the  S.  and  W.  sides.  The'flncst 
tomb  lies  to  the  E.,  opposite  the  Tell  Sandabanneh.  It  was  constructed 
ca.  B.C.  250  for  the  head  of  the  Phitnician  Colony.  Adjoining  the  ante- 
chamber on  the  N.,  E.,  and  8.  are  three  chambers,  with  41  loculi  (Kokim, 
p.  xciv)  for  bodies  hewn  in  the  walls.  They  have  gabled  roofs,  the  only  ones 
of  the  kind  found  in  Palestine.  The  main  chamber  (E.)  opens  out  into 
a  large  rectangular  recess,  with  three  niches  for  sarcophagi.  Paintings 
form  the  chief  decoraiion  of  the  tomb.  Above  the  loculi  in  the  chief 
chamber  is  a  broad  frieze  of  hunting-scenes,  beginning  in  the  S.W.  corner 
and  running  round  the  walls.  First  comes  a  man  blowing  a  trumpet,  next 
a  rider  attacked  by  a  leopard,  then  various  animals,  each  with  ;m  inscription 
in  Greek.  To  the  right  and  left  of  the  portal  to  the  main  chamber  are 
paintings  of  the  three-headed  Cerberus  and  a  cock.  Vases  adorn  both  sides 
of  the  door  of  the  E.  burial-niche.  The  paintings  betray  the  hand  of  a 
Greek  artist  and  resemble  those  on  vases  of  the  5th  and  4th  cent.  B.C.  — 
Somewhat  to  the  8.  lies  another  collection  of  tombs.  They  are  less  richly 
painted,  but  the  figures  of  the  two  musicians  are  worthy  of  notice.  These 
are  tiie  only  tombs  in  Palestine  thus  decorated. 


The  road  to  Gaza  crosses  the  range  of  hills  to  the  W.  of  Heit  Jibrin, 
affording  a  fine  retrospect  of  that  village  from  (  V4  »r0  the  top.  After 
35  uiin.  we  observe  in  the  fields  to  the  right  the  weli  of  the  Sheikh 
'Amr.  We  now  leave  the  mountains  of  Judah  behind  ns  and  gradually 
descend  their  last  spurs  to  the  plain,  in  a  W.  direction.  On  the  left, 
after  1/2  hr.,  rises  Tell  el-Mansura,  with  some  ruins,  and  V2  nr- 
farther  on  we  reach  some  caverns  which  have  fallen  in,  known  as 
'Arak  el-Menshiyeh.  Our  route  next  turns  towards  the  S.W.  On  the 
right  ( '/2  hr.)  lies  'Ajlan,  the  ancient  Eglon  (Josh.  x.  34,  35),  one 
of  the  cities  of  Judah  in  the  plain.  In  the  Septuagint  Eglon  is 
confounded  with  Adullam,  which  mistake  is  followed  by  Eusebius 
(see  p.  110).  In  about  l3/4hr.  from  'Arak  el-Munshiyeh  we  reach  — 

Tell  el-Hast,  probably  on  the  site  of  the  Biblical  Lachish,  an 
important  frontier- fortress  in  the  direction  of  Egypt  (2  Kings 
xviii.  14  et  seq.)  during  the  period  of  the  Israelitish  kings. 

Lachish  was  besieged  by  Sennacherib  (2  Kings  xix.  8)  and,  according  to 
Egyptian  inscriptions,  captured  by  him.  According  to  Jeremiah  (xxxiv.  7),- 
Lachish  was  one  of  the  last  cities  taken  from  the  Jews  by  Nebuchadnezzar. 
—  The  extensive  and  highly  interesting  excavations,  which  the  Palestine 
Exploration  Fund  has  undertaken  here  in  the  last  few  years,  have  brought 
to  light  many  fragments  of  town-walls  and  fortifications  of  different  pe- 
riods (some  very  ancient),  numerous  clay  vessels,  etc.  (conip.  FlinOers  Fltrte, 
'Tell  el  Hesy1;  J.  Bliss,  'A  Mound  of  Many  Cities'). 

From  Tell  el-Hast  our  route  continues  to  descend  the  Wddi  el- 
Hasi.  After  about  I8/4  hi.  we  reach  Bureir,  where  the  first  palms 
occur.  To  the  right,  after  40  min. ,  we  perceive  the  village  of  Simsirn, 
in  an  olive-grove.  Tobacco  and  sesame  are  grown  abundantly  here. 
Soon  after  we  cross  the  wadi  to  the  S.W.  After  i/i  hr.,  on  the  left 
the  village  of  Nejd,  and  on  the  right,  in  the  distance,  the  dunes 
neaT  the  sea.  The  road  next  passes  (25  min.)  Dimreh  on  the  right, 
and  (<>/4  hr.)  Bell  Hanun.  in  35  min.  more  it  readies  the  top  of  a  hill, 


to  Qaza. 


GAZA. 


13.  Route. 


119 


on  -which  are  ruins.  After  40  inin.  we  reach  orchards  with  palms, 
and  in  10  min.  more  the  town  of  — 

Gaza  or  Ghazzeh.  —  Accommodation.  In  the  New  Hotel  (landlord, 
Knetevitch),  at  the  Latin  Hospice  (Mr.  Salt,  a  German),  or  at  the  Greek 
Monastery  (introduction  from  Jerusalem  desirable).  The  best  place  for 
pitching  Tents  is  near  the  Serai.  —  Turkish  Post  Office;  International  Tele- 
graph Office.  —  British  Consular  Ac.ent,  Knesevilch.  —  Monet.  At  Gaza 
the  mejidi  is  worth  46  piastres,  and  o'her  coins  are  also  worth  twice  as 
much  as  at  Jerusalem.  —  For  admission  to  the  mosque  (p.  120),  it  is  neces- 
sary to  have  the  permission  of  the  Kaimmakam  (in  the  Serai)  who  appoints  a 
soldier  (fee  '/«  mejidi,  more  for  a  party)  to  accompany  the  visitors. 

History.  In  the  country  of  Peleshet,  i.e.  the  low  plain  between  Carmel 
and  the  frontier  of  Egypt,  we  find  in  historical  times  the  iPelishttm>,  or 
Philistines,  a  nation  which  did  not  belong  to  the  Semitic  race.  Their 
invasion  was  made  from  the  sea  about  1100  B.C,  when  they  took  possession 
of  the  coast  with  its  originally  Canaanitish  towns.  Their  origin  is  un- 
known. The  Bible  (Amos  ix.  7,  etc.)  connects  them  with  Caphtor,  which 
has  been  supposed  to  be  Crete.  The  Septuagint  describes  them  as  dM.d(puXoi 
(people  of  another  race).  The  Philistines  adopted  not  only  the  civiliza- 
tion ,  but  the  Semitic  language  and  the  cult  of  the  Canaanites ;  their 
principal  divinities  were  Dagon  (Marnas) ,  a  Canaanitish  god,  and  the 
Syrian  goddess  Derketo  (Atargatis),  both  deities  in  the  form  of  fish.  The 
Philistines  must  early  have  established  a  constitution;  Jewish  history, 
at  any  rate,  shows  us  a  perpetual  league  of  their  five  chief  towns,  Gaza, 
Ashdod  (p.  123),  Ascalon  (p.  121),  Gath  (p.  123),  and  Ekron  (p.  13).  Accord- 
ing to  all  accounts  the  Philistines  far  surpassed  the  Hebrews  in  culture; 
and  in  war-chariots  and  cavalry  they  were  superior  to  the  Israelites 
(1  Sam.  xiii.  5).  The  heavy-armed  soldiers  wore  a  round  copper  helmet, 
a  coat  of  mail,  and  brazen  greaves,  and  carried  a  javelin  and  a  long  lance, 
while  each  had  a  shield-bearer,  like  the  Greeks  in  the  Homeric  poems.  The 
light-armed  were  archers.  The  Philistines  possessed  fortified  encampments ; 
they  built  lofty  walls  round  their  towns.  They  carried  on  a  vigorous  and 
extensive  commerce,  especially  inland;  and  their  wars  with  the  Israelites 
were  partly  caused  by  their  efforts  to  retain  the  command  of  the  great 
caravan  routes,  especially  that  to  Damascus.  —  In  the  last  decades  of  the 
period  of  the  Judges  the  Philistines  contested  the  hegemony  of  Palestine 
with  the  Israelites,  and,  in  fact,  ruled  over  Israel  for  a  long  time.  In  what 
way  this  guerilla  war  was  carried  on,  we  may  learn  from  the  lively  and 
vigorous  narrative  of  the  hero  Samson  (Judges  xiii  et  seq.).  The  first. 
kings  of  Israel,  Saul  and  David,  effected  their  final  deliverance  from  the 
foreign  yoke,  though  several  of  the  succeeding  kings  had  to  wage  war  with 
the  Philistines.  In  the  course  of  the  great  war  between  Egypt  and  Assyria 
the  Philistian  plain  became  strategically  important,  and  its  occupation 
therefore  formed  a  constant  source  of  strife  between  these  nations,  to  the 
great  disquiet  of  the  Philistines.  Some  of  the  Philistines,  too,  were  prob- 
ably exiled  at  this  period.  After  the  Jewish  captivity  the  kingdom  of 
the  Philistines  had  disappeared.  In  the  wars  between  the  Syrian  and 
Egyptian  diadochi  Philistia  again  became  the  scene  of  fierce  conflicts. 
During  the  Maccabsean  period  the  Philistian-Hellenic  coast-towns  gave 
fresh  proofs  of  their  hereditary  enmity  against  the  Jews,  but  the  Macca- 
bseans  succeeded  in  permanently  subjugating  the  Philistian  plain. 

Gaza  was  the  southernmost  of  the  five  allied  Philistine  cities  (see  above), 
and  it  was  here  that  Samson  performed  some  of  his  remarkable  exploits 
(Judges  xvi.).  The  Israelites  held  possession  of  the  town  only  during 
the  most  flourishing  period  of  their  empire  (1  Kings  iv.  24).  The  town  was 
largo,  and  chiefly  of  importance  on  account  of  its  trade  with  Egypt.  Its 
port  was  Majumas ,  which  was  raised  by  Constantino  the  Great  to  the 
dignity  of  an  independent  town  under  the  name  of  Constantia.  Herodotus 
calls  the  town  Kadytis.  Alexander  the  Great  took  it  after  a  vigorous  defence. 
In  B.C.  GO  it  was  again  taken  and  destroyed  by  Alexander  .Tanna-us. 
Under  (^abinius  New  Gaza  was  built  some  distance  to  the  8.  of  the  former 
town.    It  was  presented  by  the  Emperor  Augustus  to  Herod,  after  whose. 


120   Route  13. 


GAZA. 


Jami'  el-Kebrr. 


death  it  reverted  to  the  Roman  province  of  Syria.  Under  the  Romans  Gaza 
peacefully  developed  its  resources.  Philemon,  to  whom  the  Epistle  of  that 
name  was  addressed,  was  traditionally  first  bishop  of  Gaza.  Down  to  the 
time  of  Constantine  the  town  was  one  of  the  chief  strongholds  of  paganism, 
adhering  to  its  god  Mamas ,  whose  statues  and  temples  stood  till  the 
year  400,  when  they  were  destroyed  by  an  edict  of  the  emperor.  On  the 
site  of  the  principal  temple  a  large  cruciform  church  was  afterwards 
erected  by  Eudoxia,  wife  of  the  Emperor  Arcadins.  In  634  the  town  was 
taken  by  the  Arabs  under 'Omar,  and  it  was  regarded  as  an  important  place 
by  the  Muslims,  because  Hashim,  Mohammed's  grandfather,  who  had 
once  traded  with  the  place,  had  died  and  been  buried  there.  The 
Crusaders  found  Gaza  in  rnins.  In  1149  Baldwin  II.  erected  a  fortress 
here.  In  1170  Saladin  plundered  the  town ,  though  unable  to  reduce  the 
fortress;  in  1187,  however,  the  whole  place  fell  into  his  hands.  In  1244 
the  Christians  and  Muslims  were  defeated  by  the  Kharezmians  near  Gaza. 
Since  that  period  Gaza  has  been  a  place  of  no  importance.  In  1799  it 
was  taken  by  Napoleon.  —  Comp.  communications  of  Qatt  in  ZDPV. 
vii.  1-14;  293-298;  xi.  149-159. 

Ohazzeh,  the  seat  of  a  Kaimmaljam  (p.  lvii)  and  containing  a 
small  garrison,  lias  35,000  inhab.,  including  700  Greeks  (who  possess 
a  church),  50  Latins  (also  with  a  church),  and  100  Jews.  The  town 
is  of  semi-Egyptian  character;  the  veil  of  the  Muslim  women,  for 
example,  closely  resembles  the  Egyptian.  The  bazaar,  too,  has  an 
Egyptian  appearance.  The  old  caravan  traffic  with  Egypt  is  now 
almost  extinct,  but  the  market  is  still  largely  frequented  by  the 
Beduins,  especially  for  dates,  figs,  olives,  lentils,  and  other  provi- 
sions. Gaza  is,  moreover,  an  important  depot  for  barley;  its  olive- 
harvest  is  considerable  ;  and  it  contains  numerous  potteries  and  a 
steam-mill  in  German  possession.  — An  unusually  large  proportion 
of  the  inhabitants  suffer  from  ophthalmia,  for  the  relief  of  which  the 
English  Church  Missionary  Society  has  established  a  hospital  here. 
The  same  society  has  schools  for  Muslim  and  Christian  boys  and  girls 
under  the  direction  of  the  Rev.  Dr.  Sterling.  The  town-wells  are 
100-160  ft.  deep,  but  the  water  is  brackish,  except  in  a  few  wells  to 
the  N.  The  town  lies  on  a  hill  about  100  ft.  high,  in  the  midst  of 
orchards.  Owing  to  the  abundance  of  water  contained  by  the  soii 
the  vegetation  is  very  rich.  The  ancient  town  was  a  good  deal  larger 
than  the  modern  one,  and  to  the  S.  and  E.  elevations  of  the  ground 
are  visible,  marking  the  course  of  the  town  wall.  The  newer  houses 
are  generally  built  of  ancient  materials. 

The  Serai,  on  the  E.  side  of  the  town,  dates  from  the  beginning 
of  the  13th  cent,  and  has  finely  jointed  masonry.  Behind  it,  to  the 
E.,  is  shown  the  Tomb  of  Samson  (Samsun).  Not  far  from  the  Serai 
rises  the  large  mosque  Jami'  el-Kebtr  (adm.,  see  p.  119;  shoes  must 
be  removed).  The  court  of  the  mosque  is  paved  with  marble  slabs; 
around  it  are  several  schools.  The  mosque  itself  was  originally  a 
Christian  church,  consisting  of  nave  and  lower  aisles,  built  ir.  the 
12th  cent,  out  of  ancient  materials  and  dedicated  to  St.  John.  The 
Muslims  erected  an  additional  aisle  on  the  S.  side,  and,  in  order  to 
make  room  for  a  minaret,  built  up  the  apses.  Over  the  three  square 
pilasters  and  two  half-pillars  which  bound  the  nave  rise  pointed 


El-'Arish. 


GAZA. 


13.  Route.    121 


arcades.  On  one  of  the  beautiful  columns  (N.E.)  is  a  bas-relief  repre- 
senting the  seven-branched  candlestick,  with  a  Greek  and  Hebrew 
inscription.    The  W.  portal  is  a  line  specimen  of  Italian  Gothic. 

To  the  S.W.  of  this  mosque  is  situated  a  handsome  caravan- 
serai, called  the  Khan  ez-Zeit  ('oil  khan').  Proceeding  to  the  S.W. 
through  the  Hdret  ez-Zeitun  quarter  we  come  to  a  mosque  partly  built 
with  finely  hewn  stones,  situated  on  the  road  which  is  traversed  by 
caravans  to  and  from  Egypt. 

Tradition  points  out,  on  the  S.W.  side  of  the  town,  the  place 
whence  Samson  carried  off  the  gates  of  the  Philistines.  Passing 
across  tombs  towards  the  W.  and  walking  round  the  town,  we  come 
to  the  weli  of  Sheikh  Sha'ban  and  to  a  mosque  of  some  antiquity  in 
which  Hdshim,  Mohammed's  grandfather,  is  buried.  This  building 
was  restored  during  the  19th  century ,  but  partly  with  the  old 
materials.    We  return  by  the  cemeteries  to  the  E.  side  of  the  town. 

A  ride  of  '^  hi.  to  the  S.E.  of  Gaza  brings  us  to  the  Jebel  el- 
Muntdr  (272  ft.),  which  is  covered  with  tombs.  (Mun$ar,  'watch- 
tower',  is  popularly  believed  to  have  been  a  Muslim  saint.)  The 
view  hence  repays  the  ascent:  to  the  S.,  beyond  the  cultivated 
land,  lies  the  sandy  desert;  to  theE.,  beyond  the  plain,  rise  the 
hill-ranges  of  Judaea;  to  the  W.,  beyond  the  broad,  yellow  sand-hills, 
stretches  the  sea;  but  the  most  picturesque  object  of  all  is  the  town 
itself,  peeping  forth  from  its  beautiful  green  mantle. 

Fkom  Gaza  to  El-'AkIsh,  13  hrs.  From  Gaza  in  1  hr.  5  min.  to  Tell 
el-'AjM  near  the  Wddi  Ghazzeh.  About  1  hr.  to  the  S.E.  of  Tell  el-rAjul, 
near  Tell  Jem'a,  are  the  ruins  of  Umm  Jerdr  (probably  the  Gerar  of  Gen.  xx.  1  •, 
xxvi.  1).  After  I1/4  hr.  we  reach  Deir  el-Belah  (the  ancient  Ed-D&r&m;  the 
mosque  Jdmi'  el-Khidr  stands  on  the  site  of  an  old  chapel).  We  next  reach 
(1  hr.  37  min.)  K/idrl  Ytinus,  with  a  fine  mosque  of  the  time  of  Sultan  Bar- 
kvik.  A  little  to  the  S.  of  Khan  Yiinus  is  the  Egyptian  frontier.  In  1  hr. 
17  min.  we  reach  Tell  Rifah,  or  Raphia;  then  (21/4  hrs.)  Sheikh  Zuweid, 
(23/4  hrs.)  Khivbet  el-Borj,  and  (2'/2  hrs.)  tbo  broad  valley  ofEl-'Arish,  the 
'River  of  Egypt"  of  the  Bible  (Numb,  xxxiv.  5 ;  Isaiah  xxvii.  12).  In  20min. 
more  we  reach  the  fortress  and  the  quarantine.  El-rArish  occupies  the  site 
of  the  ancient  Rliinocolura.  By  the  cistern  in  the  court  there  is  a  minia- 
ture Egyptian  temple  (a  monolith  of  granite),  now  used  as  a  trough.  — 
The  town  is  said  to  have  been  originally  founded  by  an  Ethiopian-Egyp- 
tian king  as  a  place  of  banishment,  and  under  the  name  of  Laris  it  was 
an  episcopal  see  in  the  first  centuries  of  our  era.  Baldwin  I.  of  Jerusalem 
died  here  in  1118.  The  Hajar  Berdawil,  or  'Stone  of  Baldwin',  is  still  pointed 
out.    On  Feb.  18th,  1799,  Napoleon  took  El-rArish. 

From  Gaza  to  Beersheba,  see  p.  169. 


14.  From  Gaza  to  Jerusalem  via  Ascalon. 

From  Gaza  to  Ascalon,  3'/2  hrs.  on  horseback :  thence  to  Jerusalem 
l5'/2  hrs.    Nightquarters  may  be  found  atEsdiid(p.  123)oratMejdel  (p.  123). 

The  best  route  is  that  along  the  coast,  which  we  reach  via  the 
Weli  Sheikh  Ridwun  in  20  minutes.  We  then  skirt  the  coast  all  the 
way  to  (ca.  3  hrs.)  the  — 

Ruins  of  Ascalon  ('Askaldn).  —  Ascalon  was  one  of  the  five  principal 
towns  of  the  Philistines,  and  the  chief  scat  of  the  worship  of  the  goddess 


122   Route  14. 


ASCALON. 


From  Gaza 


Pcrketo,  to  whom  all  fish  were  sacred.  The  town  belonged  1o  the  Tyrians 
in  the  Persian  period,  to  the  Ptolemies  in  the  3rd  cent.  B.C.,  and  to  the 
Seleucidee  from  the  reign  of  Antiochus  III.  onwards.  In  104  B.C.  it 
succeeded  in  making  itself  independent,  and  it  reckons  its  own  chronology 
from  that  date.  It  enjoyed  its  greatest  prosperity  in  the  Roman  period, 
as  a  kind  of  free  republic  under  Roman  protection.  Herod  the  Great  was 
horn  at  Ascalon,  and  he  caused  the  town  lo  be  embellished  with  baths, 
colonnades,  and  the  like,  although  it  was  not  within  his  dominions.  The 
citizens,  like  those  of  Gaza,  were  bitter  opponents  of  Christianity  down  to 
a  late  period.  On  the  arrival  of  the  Crusaders  Ascalon  was  in  possession 
of  the  Fatimites  of  Egypt.  On  Aug.  12th,  1099,  the  Franks  gained  a  brilliant 
victory  under  the  walls  of  the  town,  but  it  was  only  after  a  siege  of  live 
months  by  sea  and  land  that  they  at  length  compelled  the  place  to 
capitulate.  Saladin's  victory  at  Hattin  brought  Ascalon  once  more  into 
the  hands  of  the  Muslims,  and  its  walls  were  razed  at  the  beginning  of 
the  Third  Crusade.  In  1191  Richard  Coeur-de-Lion  began  to  rebuild  the 
fortress,  but  he  was  obstructed  by  the  jealousy  of  the  other  princes,  and 
in  a  subsequent  truce  with  the  Muslims  it  was  agreed  that  the  place 
should  remain  unfortified.  In  1270  Beib&rs  caused  the  fortifications  to  be 
demolished,  and  since  then  Ascalon  has  been  a  ruin. 

Ascalon  is  correctly  described  by  William  of  Tyre,  the  historian 
of  the  Crusades,  as  lying  within  a  semicirole  of  ramparts,  the 
chord  of  which  was  formed  by  the  sea  on  the  W.,  and  in  a  kind  of  hol- 
low sloping  towards  the  sea.  The  top  of  the  ramparts  affords  an 
interesting  survey  of  the  ancient  site.  Near  the  S.W.  corner  lay  the 
small  and  bad  harbour  of  Ascalon.  Of  the  bastions  which  defended 
it  a  few  remains  still  exist.  On  the  side  towards  the  sea  stood  a 
gate,  the  site  of  which  is  still  called  Bab  cl-Bahr  (sea-gate).  The 
W.  wall  is  continued  along  the  low  cliffs  on  the  coast.  Large  frag- 
ments of  it  have  occasionally  fallen.  —  In  the  S.  part  of  the  wall  of 
Ascalon  another  gate,  called  that  of  Gaza,  is  still  distinguishable, 
and  there  are  also  remains  of  towers.  —  The  ramparts  on  the  E. 
side  were  the  most  strongly  fortified,  the  walls  there  being  very 
massive  and  upwards  of  G1^  ft.  thick;  fragments  of  columns  built 
into  them  are  sometimes  seen  projecting.  On  the  hill,  near  the  Weli 
Mohammed,  are  seen  the  still  tolerably  preserved  towers  which 
defended  the  principal  gate,  that  of  Jerusalem ;  hut  the  remains  are 
deeply  buried  in  sand.  — The  N.  side  of  the  ramparts  is  not  easily 
visited,  as  they  are  concealed  by  luxuriant  orchards,  both  outside 
and  inside  the  walls.  Among  these  orchards  are  found  fragments  of 
columns,  statues,  remains  of  Christian  churches,  and,  most  important 
of  all,  40  cisterns  of  excellent  water.  The  orchards,  enclose  1  by 
prickly  cactus-hedges,  belong  to  the  inhabitants  of  El- Jura,  a  village 
with  300  inhab.,  situated  to  the  N.E.  of  the  ancient  Ascalon. 
Sycamores  abound,  and  vines,  olives,  many  fruit-trees,  ami  an  ex- 
cellent kind  of  onion  also  thrive  in  this  favoured  district.  This  last 
was  called  by  the  Bomaus  Asoalonia,  whence  the  French  ecb.aiot.t6 
and  our  shalot  are  derived. 

From  Ascalon  to  Jaffa  (73/4  hrs.).  The  route  from  El-Jora  (see  above) 
leads  first  along  the  road  to  Mejdel  (p.  123),  then  diverges  (about  halfway) 
to  the  left  (N.),  bringing  us  in  50  min.  direct  to  Ham&meh,  and  thence  in 
1  hr.  20  min.  to  EsdOd.  —  The  ddtour  via,  Mejdel  (p.  123)  is  well  forth 
the  extra  time  (3/«  hr.)  required. 


to  Jerusalem. 


MEJDEL. 


14.  Route. 


123 


Esdud,  a  village  with  nearly  3000  inhab.,  stands  on  the  slope  of  a  hill 
commanded  by  a  still  higher  eminence  on  which  the  acropolis  probably 
stood.  European  travellers  will  find  a  hearty  welcome  at  the  house  of 
Mr.  Schmidt,  the  proprietor  of  a  large  steam-mill.  Esdud  is  the  ancient 
Ashdod  (Greek  Azotos),  which  appears  to  have  been  the  most  important  city 
of  the  Philistian  Pentapolis  (p.  119).  Its  position  on  the  main  route  be- 
tween Egypt  and  Syria  lent  it  importance  for  both  countries.  About  the 
year  711  B.C.  it  was  captured  by  the  Assyrians,  and  a  century  later  it  was 
taken  from  them  by  Psammetichus  after  a  siege  of  twenty-nine  years. 
The  Maccabreans  added  Ashdod  to  the  possessions  of  the  Jews  (1  Mace. 
x.  84),  but  Pompey  restored  its  independence.  Subsequently  it  formed 
part  of  the  kingdom  of  Herod.  St.  Philip  preached  the  gospel  here  (Acts 
viii.  40),  and  bishops  of  Azotus  are  mentioned  at  a  later  period.  At  the 
entrance  to  the  village,  on  the  S.  side,  lies  the  ruin  of  a  large  medireval 
khan,  with  galleries,  courts,  and  various  chambers.  Ancient  masonry  and 
fragments  of  columns  are  also  detected  in  the  houses  and  mosques.  About 
3  M.  to  the  W.  is  the  old  seaport  of  Ashdod,  with   the  ruins  of  a  castle. 

After  5  min.  the  road  from  Esd&d  brings  us  to  the  Wddi  Esddd,  in 
l1/*  hr.  to  the  dilapidated  khan  of  Sukreir,  and  in  another  l'/4  hr.  to  — 

Yebna,  another  large  village  with  two  mosques ,  one  of  which  (El- 
Keniseh)  was  no  doubt  once  a  church  of  the  Crusaders,  and  has  a  hand- 
some portal.  It  is  situated  on  the  Wddi  Sar&r  (possibly  the  valley  of 
Sorek,  Judges  xvi.  4)  and  corresponds  to  the  ancient  Jabneh,  or  Jabneel 
(Josh.  xv.  11),  the  Greek  name  of  which  was  Jamnia.  Jabneh  possessed  a 
seaport  of  the  same  name,  the  ruins  of  which  lie.  at  the  mouth  of  the  Nahr 
R&bin,  311.  to. the  N.W.  This  seaport  is  said  to  have  been  burned  by 
Judas  Maccabseus  ('2  Mace.  xn.  8),  but  the  Jews  did  not  obtain  permanent 
possession  of  the  town  until  the  time  of  Alexander  Jannseus.  Pompey 
restored  its  independence;  Gabinius  rebuilt  the  town  which  had  fallen  into 
decay;  and  Augustus  presented  it  to  Herod.  At  that  time  it  was  a  populous 
town  and,  as  a  seaport,  more  important  than  Joppa.  Even  before  the 
destruction  of  Jerusalem  Jamnia  became  the  seat  of  the  Jewish  Sanhedrin; 
a  famous  rabbinical  school  flourished  here ,  and  the  town  was  afterwards 
intellectually  the  centre  of  the  conspiracy  against  Trajan,  A.D.  117.  The 
Crusaders  called  the  town  Ibelin,  and  erected  a  large  fortress  here.  Its  iden- 
tification with  the  %ncient  Philistine  town  of  Galh  is  entirely  problematical. 

Jaffa  lies  3i/s  hrs.  to  the  N.  of  Yebna,  and  Ramleh  21/4  hrs.  to  the  N.E. 

From  El-J6ra  (p.  122)  the  road  leads  to  the  N.E.  to  (3/4  hr.) 
Mejdel  (possibly  Migdal-Oad,  Joshua  xv.  37).  Mejdel  has  5-6000 
inhab.,  a  considerable  weaving-industry,  and  an  important  market. 
It  is  an  'out-station'  of  the  English  Church  Missionary  Society. 
About  3/4  M.  to  the  N.  is  a  German  steam-mill,  the  proprietor  of 
which,  Mr.  Neef,  gives  a  friendly  welcome  to  the  traveller.  The 
mosque  is  partly  built  with  ancient  materials,  and  has  an  elegant 
minaret.  —  After  7  min.  we  turn  to  the  E.  from  the  main  road.  In 
50  min.  we  reach  Wddi  Makkus,  and  (10  min.)  leave  Jolis  on  the 
right  (S.).  We  then  reach  (55min.)  the  village  of  Es-Sawdfir,  and 
then  (5  min.)  another  of  the  same  name.  A  third  Sawafir  lies 
farther  to  the  N.,  and  one  of  them  perhaps  answers  to  the  Saphir 
mentioned  by  Micah  (i.  11).  We  next  reach  (to  the  E;  '/2  hr.)  the 
well-watered  Wddi  es-Sdfiyeh.  The  road  passes  (1  hr.)  a  water- 
course, and  then  (3/4  hr.)  returns  to  the  Wadi  es-Sailyeh,  but  does 
not  cross  it.  The  plain  here  is  always  marshy  in  spring.  In  20  min. 
we  reach  the  foot  of  the  Tell  es-Saflyeh. 

The  hill  of  Tell  es-S&fiyeh,  which  commands  the  outlet  of  the 
great  Wddi  ea-Sant  (valley  of  mimosas;  probably  the  valley  of  Elah 

Bakdekeu's  Palestine  and  Syria.    4th  Edit.  $ 


124   Route  14. 


BEIT  NETTIF. 


or  Terebinth  Valley,  1  Sam.  xvii.  2;  oomp.  pp.  17,  113),  is  sup- 
posed by  some  to  be  the  ancient  Mizpeh  or  Mizpak  of  Judak  (Josh. 
xv.  38),  and  by  others  Libnah  ('the  white';  Josh.  x.  29);  but  the 
latter  conjecture  is  the  less  probable.  In  1138  King  Fulke  of  Anjou 
built  a  castle  here,  which  was  intended  to  complete  the  girdle  of 
fortifications  around  Ascalon ,  and  was  named  Blanco,  Guarda  or 
Specula  Alba,  from  the  conspicuous  white  chalk  rocks.  In  1191  the 
castle  was  taken  by  Saladin  and  destroyed.  Ascending  the  hill  from 
the  W.,  we  observe  a  cavern  (probably  an  old  quarry),  and  then 
traverse  the  miserable  modern  village.  On  the  hill  (10  min.)  a  few 
substructions  of  well-hewn  stones  are  all  that  now  remains  of  the 
Crusaders'  castle.  The  weli  is  also  built  of  ancient  materials.  The 
view  is  very  extensive. 

Here  we  re-enter  :<  region  of  EOCK  OaVKBNS  like  those  with  which  we 
became  acquainted  at  Beit  Jihrin  (p.  117).  Some  of  these  are  at  Deir  el- 
Buttim.  20  min.  to  the  S.E.  of  Tell  es-Sahyeh,  others  at  Deir  ed-Dubbdn,  1/t  hr. 
farther,  others  again  at  Kltirbet  Dakar,  V«  hr.  to  the  W.  of  Deir  ed-Dubb;ui. 

About  1  hr.  beyond  Tell  es-Safiyeh  we  leave  the  village  of  'Ajar 
on  the  hill  to  the  right  (E.),  and  soon  obtain  a  fine  view  of  the  Wddi 
es-Sant.  After  1/4  hr.  we  observe  to  the  left  (N.)  Zakaryd,  on  a 
hill  which  is  sometimes  supposed  to  have  been  the  site  of  Oath  of 
the  Philistines  (p.  119).  The  explorations  of  the  Pal.  Expl.  Fund 
have  proved  that  a  considerable  town  existed  here  as  early  as  the 
pre-Israelitish  period  (Quarterly  Statements,  1899).  We  descend 
into  the  broad  and  well-cultivated  floor  of  the  valley.  After  1  hr. 
we  pass  a  small  valley  and  the  well  Bit  es-Sdfsdf  on  the  right.  On 
the  hill  to  the  left  is  Beit  Nettif  (hardly  to  be  identified  with  the 
ancient  Netophah,  Ezra  ii.  22),  which  we  reach  in^/2  hr.  more.  The 
village  contains  about  1000  inhabitants  and  affords  a  very  extensive 
View.  Below  the  village  the  Wadi  es-Sfir,  coming  from  the  S., 
unites  with  the  Wadi  el-Mesarr,  descending  from  the  N.E.  To  the 
S.  lies  Dahr  el-Juwei'id,  and  a  little  towards  the  W.  the  extensive 
ruins  of  Shuweikeh ,  with  ancient  caverns  [Socoh ,  or  Shochoh, 
Joshua  xv.  35  ;  1  Sam.  xvii.  1  et  seq.).  To  the  W.  lies  Deir  'Asfur, 
to  the  N.W.  Khirbet  esh-Shmeili,  Tibnah  {Timnath,  Judges  xiv.  5), 
and  cAin  Shems  {Beth  Shemesh,  1  Sam.  vi.  19,  20 ;  1  Kings  iv.  9), 
To  the  N.  are  Zanu'a  (Zanoah,  1  Chron.  iv.  l8)  and  Sa/a  (p.  14); 
a  little  towards  the  E.  the  small  village  of  Khirbet  Jerash,  to  the  E. 
Nidhyad,  and  in  the  distance  Beit  'Atab  (supposed  to  be  the  rock 
Etham,  Judges  xv.  8;  a  cave  still  exists  there). 

The  site  of  Adullam  (Joshua  xv.  35;  xii.  15 4  1  Sam.  xxii.  1;  2  Sam. 
Nxiii.  13,  14)  lias  been  supposed  to  be  identical  with  a  spot  1  hr.  to  the 
S.  of  Shuweikeh,  near  the  hill  Sheikh  Madkdr  (comp.  p.  110).  Adullam, 
which  has  also  been  placed  here  by  Eusebius,  was  probably  a  mountain- 
fastness,  the  reading  'cave'  being  erroneous. 

From  Beit  Nettif  we  descend  in  25  min.  to  the  outlet  of  the 
Wadi  el-Mesarr,  and  in  */4  hr.  we  pass  the  ruin  of  a  khan.  We 
diverge  to  the  left  into  the  Wddi  el-Lehdm,  a  small  side-valley. 
In  1  hr.  we  reach  the  crest  of  the  hill  (fine  view).    We  next  pass 


BETHANY. 


15.  Route.    125 


(20  min.)  the  ruin  of  Khirbet  el- Khan.  We  now  follow  the  top  of 
the  hills  ami  enjoy  a  magnificent  view.  After  1  hr.  10  min.  we  reach 
the  watershed  and  keep  to  the  left  (N.E.) ;  the  road  to  the  right  (S.E.) 
lea.ds  past  El-Khadr  (p.  108)  to  Bethlehem.  Ahont  */2  h*.  farther  on 
we  begin  to  descend  into  the  valley,  passing  to  the  left  of  the  village 
of  El-Kabu,  and  then  (55  min.)  turn  to  the  right  into  the  large  main 
valley,  the  WCtdi  Bitttr.  Biding  up  the  valley,  we  reach  Bitttr  (p.  14) 
in  25  minutes.    Thence  to  Jerusalem,  see  pp.  92,  93. 

15.  From  Jerusalem  to  Jericho,  the  Jordan, 
'V**./f*^*fi  ejT^  and  the  Dead  Sea. 

By  Carriage  this  excursion  (there  and  back)  takes  I1/2  day  (fare 
60  fr.).  There  is  a  road  as  far  as  Jericho  (4  hrs.) ,  but  beyond  that 
driving  is  practicable  in  dry  weather  only.  A  dragoman  may  be  dispensed 
with  by  male  travellers,  as  there  is  good  accommodation  at  Jericho.  — 
liiDEKS  from  Jerusalem  to  Jericho  take  6  hrs.,  thence  to  the  Jordan  l1/^  hr., 
and  thence  to  the  Dead  Sea,  1  hr.  The  whole  trip,  including  the  return- 
journey  via  Mar  Sdbd  (p.  133),  takes  3  days.  For  this  the  dragoman  should 
be  content  with  70-80  fr.  a  head  (exclusive  of  tents). 

To  Gethsemane,  see  p.  75.  The  road  gradually  ascends  opposite 
the  city  to  the  top  of  the  Batn  el-Hawa,  and  then  bends  to  the  E. 
On  the  mountain,  to  the  right,  is  the  Benedictine  convent,  and 
below  us,  farther  on,  also  to  the  right,  is  the  slaughter-house.  On 
the  left  of  the  small  valley  that  descends  from  the  summit  of  the 
Mount  of  Olives  we  are  shown  the  site  of  the  fig-tree  (Matth.  xxi.  19) 
which  was  cursed  by  Christ.  On  the  crest  of  the  hill  before  Bethany, 
to  the  left,  is  the  Passionist  convent.  In  40  min.  after  leaving 
Jerusalem  we  reach  — 

Bethany  (Arabic  El-'Azar7yeli),  an  entirely  Muslim  village  con- 
sisting of  about  forty  hovels,  situated  on  a  S.E.  spur  of  the  Mount 
of  Olives.    There  are  numerous  fig,  olive,  almond,  and  carob  trees. 

Bethany  was  a  favourite  resort  of  Jesus.  It  was  in  the  house  of 
Simon  the  Leper  that  the  woman  anointed  him  with  precious  ointment 
(Mark  xiv.  3;  Matth.  xxvi.  6).  Bethany  was  also  the  scene  of  the  resur- 
rection of  Lazarus,  the  brother  of  Martha  and  Mary,  as  related  in  John  xi. 
At  a  very  early  period  churches  and  monasteries  were  erected  here.  The 
Roman  lady  Paula  (p.  106)  visited  a  church  on  the  site  of  Lazarus's  grave. 
In  1138  Milicent,  wife  of  Fulke,  fourth  King  of  Jerusalem  (p.  73),  founded 
a  nunnery  by  the  church  of  St.  Lazarus,  and  in  1159  the  building  came 
into  the  possession  of  the  Hospitallers.  —  The  Arabic  name  is  derived 
from    Lazarus  or  'Xazarium',  the  Arabs  having  taken  the  L  for  an  article. 

,^-The  most  conspicuous  object  is  a  ruined  Tower,  the  so-called 
'Castle  of  Lazarus',  now  generally  known  as  the  'House  of  Simon  the 
Leper',  which,  to  judge  from  its  large  drafted  stones,  must  be  older 
than  the  time  of  the  Crusaders.  About  twenty  paces  to  the  N.E.  of 
this  is  the  Tomb  of  Lazarus  {^Kabr  el-'Azar;  a  light  is  necessary). 
To  the  E.  of  the  tomb  rises  a  mosque  with  a  small  minaret ;  for  the 
Muslims  also  regard  Lazarus  as  a  saint,  and  have  taken  possession 
of  his  tomb.  The  outer  staircase  was  constructed  by  the  Christians 
in  the  16th  century.    We  descend  by  24  steps  into  a  small  ante- 

-  M.u^aU^r .  ft  «/tVw  -d^cUo  - 1* J  &  -  VoJl  > 


126   Route  15. 


BETHANY. 


From  Jerusalem 


chamber,  and  thence  by  three  more  deep  steps  to  the  tomb-chamher. 
The  poor-looking  chamber  is  lined  with  masonry,  and  its  whole 
appearance  is  unlike  that  of  a  Jewish  tomb.  The  tomb  of  Lazarus 
was  formerly  shown  in  the  church  above,  and  this  vault  was  prob- 
ably called  the  penance-chapel  of  MaTy  Magdalen.  —  Considerable 
vacillation  has  occurred  with  regard  to  the  site  of  the  house  of 
Mary  and  Martha  (now  shown  about  43  yards  to  the  S.  of  the  tomb  of 
Lazarus),  and  with  regard  to  the  house  of  Simon  the  Leper  (p.  125). 

Beyond  Bethany,  on  the  hill  to  the  right,  we  see  the  village  of 
Abu  Dls  (p.  133).  Farther  on,  to  the  right  of  the  road,  stands  a  Greek 
chapel  built  on  ancient  foundation-walls,  which  encloses  the  Stone 
of  Rest.  The  stone,  about  3  ft.  in  length,  marks  the  spot  where 
Martha  met  Jesus  (John  xi.  20).  The  Arabic  name  of  the  place  is 
Ei-Juneineh,  or  'little  garden'. 

The  road  now  descends  into  the  Wddi  el-Hod,  or  J-  valley  of  the 
watering-place';  so  called  after  the  (20  min. )  Hod  el-'Azariyeh  (cafe), 
the  only  well  between  this  point  and  the  valley  of  the  Jordan,  and 
known  since  the  15th  cent,  as  the  '  Apostles'  Spring'.  The  water  is  not 
very  good. 

It  was  assumed  that  the  apostles  must  have  drunk  of  its  water  on  their 
journey.  Its  identification  with  the  'sun-spring'  of  En- Shemesh  (Josh.  xv.  7) 
is  doubtful.    A  well-house  constructed  in  the  16th  cent,  has  disappeared. 

The  route  now  descends  the  Wadi  el-liod.  AfteT  20  min.  the 
small  Wddi  el-Jemel  ('camel  valley')  descends  from  the  right; 
10  min.  later  the  Wddi  el-Hdrtk,  also  to  the  right;  after  36  min. 
we  leave  the  Wadi  el-Hod  at  the  Wddi  el-Mufdkh  (on  the  right), 
and  cross  a  ridge  into  the  Wddi  es-Sidr  (for  the  'sidr'  tree,  see  p.  128). 
After  20  min.  the  road  enters  a  side-valley  to  the  N.  In  20  min. 
more  we  reach  the  Khdn  Hadrur,  which  lies  about  halfway  to  Jericho 
(coffee  and  refreshments;  Turkish  post-office).  This  district  is  quite 
deserted,  and  tradition  localizes  the  parable  of  the  Good  Samaritan 
here  (Luke  x.  30-37).  Above  the  khan  is  the  'hill  of  blood',  Tal'ut 
ed-Dam,  with  the  ruins  of  a  mediaeval  castle.  The  name,  which  is 
probably  due  to  the  red  colour  of  the  rock,  has  led  to  the  supposition 
that  the  spot  is  the  'going  up  to  Adummim1  (Josh.  xv.  7;  xviii.  17). 
The  descent  from  the  khan  into  the  (20  min.)  Wddi  er-Rumrnaneh 
('valley  of  pomegranates')  is  called  'Akabet  el-Jerdd  ( 'ascent  of  the 
locusts').  The  road  follows  the  valley,  which  now  assumes  the  name 
of  Wddi  Tal'at  ed-Dam.  After  ca.  20  min.  the  new  carriage-road 
to  En-Nebi  Musd  (p.  133)  branches  off  to  the  right.  From  the  ele- 
vation to  the  left  of  the  road,  near(3/4hr.)  the  fragments  of  an 
ancient  aqueduct,  we  obtain  a  magnificent  view  into  the  deep  Wddi 
el-Kelt,  the  lower  portion  of  the  Wddi  Fdra  (p.  98),  which  contains 
water  during  the  greater  part  of  the  year.  It  has  been  supposed  to 
be  identical  with  the  valley  of  Achor  (Josh.  xv.  7)  and  again  vith 
the  brook  Cherith  (1  Kings  xvii.  3,  5),  but  the  latter  identification 
is  undoubtedly  wrong.  A  cavern  in  the  rock-wall  to  the  left  has 
been  converted  into  the  Greek  Monastery  of  St.  George  (a  kind  of 


to  the  Dead  Sea. 


JERICHO. 


15.  Route. 


127 


penitentiary  for  Greek  priests);  the  substructions  date  from  the 
ancient  monastery  of  Khoziba.  Here  are  also  remains  of  mosaics. 
After  l/4  hr.  Beit  Jabr  el-Fokdni  (the  'upper')  appears  on  the  left. 
The  two  ruined  houses,  called  Beit  Jabr  (the  upper  and  the  lower), 
perhaps  occupy  the  site  of  the  ancient  castles  of  Thrax  and  Tauros, 
which  once  defended  the  pass.  After  3  min.  a  footpath  leads  to  the 
left  to  the  Monastery  of  St.  George  (p.  126).  The  view  gradually 
develops  itself,  and  at  length  we  perceive  the  Dead  Sea  and  the 
vast  plain  of  Jordan.  In  10  min.  more  the  Wddi  el-Kelt  reappears, 
the  S.  side  of  which  the  road  ascends.  In  10  min.  we  reach,  on  the 
right,  Beit  Jabr  et-Tahtdni  (the  Mower';  see  above).  Entering  the 
plain  ( 10  min.),  we  see,  to  the  right  of  the  road,  the  ancient  Birket 
Musd,  or  Pool  of  Moses,  188  yds.  long  and  157  yds.  wide.  It 
belonged  to  the  ancient  system  of  conduits  which  once  irrigated 
this  district  and  rendered  it  a  paradise.  This  is  perhaps  the  remains 
of  a  pool  constructed  by  Herod  near  his  palace  at  Jericho;  for  this, 
it  appears,  is  the  site  of  the  Jericho  of  the  New  Testament.  The  hill 
which  rises  opposite  is  Tell  Abu  'Aldik  ('hill  of  the  leeches').  Some- 
what farther  on,  to  the  S.  of  the  Pool  of  Moses,  we  see  the  ruin  of 
Khirbet  el-Kakun.  After  20  min.  the  road  leads  past  the  modern 
aqueduct,  which  carries  the  water  from  the  rAin  es-Sultan  (p.  128) 
across  the  Wadi  el-Kelt,  and  then  crosses  the  valley  by  a  bridge. 
In  5  min.  more  we  reach  the  village. 

Jericho.  —  Accommodation.  Jordan  Hotel  and  Hotel  no  Pako 
(landlord, Petridis);  Hotel  Gilgal  and  Hotel Bellevue  (landlord,  Shammali), 
pens.,  without  wine,  10*.  —  Russian  Hospice  (introduction  from  the 
Archimandrite  at  Jerusalem  necessary),  good  and  clean;  3  fr.  per  day 
without  board ,  which  travellers  must  provide  for  themselves.  —  Trav- 
ellers with  tents  pitch  them  beside  the  Sultan's  Spring  (p.  128),  to  which 
the  road  diverges  at  the  aqueduct  mentioned  above,  before  entering  the 
village.  —  Turkish  Pott  Office. 

The  inhabitants  of  Jericho  are  obtrusive,  and  the  women  have  not 
the  best  reputation.  The  traveller  should  be  on  his  guard  against  thieves. 
The  villagers  usually  crowd  round  travellers  with  ofters  to  execute  a 
lFantasia\  or  dance  accompanied  by  singing,  both  of  which  are  tiresome. 
The  performers  clap  their  own  or  each  other's  hands,  and  improvise  verses 
in  a  monotonous  tone. 

Travellers  should  not  forget  to  take  drinking-water  with  them  when 
visiting  the  Dead  Sea  (p.  182). 

History.  The  ancient  Jericho  lay  by  the  springs  at  the  foot  of  the 
Jobel  Karantal  (p.  129),  that  is  to  the  W.  of  modern  Jericho,  and  to  the  N. 
of  the'jericho  of  the  Roman  period.  The  Israelitisb  town  (Joshua  v,  vi)  at 
first  belonged  to  the  tribe  of  Benjamin,  afterwards  to  the  kingdom  of 
Israel.  The  town  was  of  considerable  size  and  enclosed  by  walls.  It  is 
sometimes  called  the  'city  of  palms',  and  down  to  the  7th  cent,  of  our 
era  date-palms  were  common,  though  they  have  now  almost  entirely 
disappeared.  Around  the  town  lay  a  large  and  flourishing  oasis  of  corn 
and  hemp  fields.  It  was  specially  noted  for  its  balsam  gardens.  The 
balsam  plant  has  now  disappeared  entirely,  although  the  plants  of  South 
Arabia  and  India  would  still  flourish  in  this  warm  climate.  Here,  too, 
flourished  the  Henna  (Lawsonia  inermis),  which  yields  a  red  dye.  Antony 
presented  the  district  of  Jericho  to  Cleopatra,  who  sold  it  to  Herod ; 
and  that  monarch  embellished  it  with  palaces  and  constituted  it  his 
winter -residence.    He  died  here,  but  directed  that  he  should  be  interred 


AIN  ES-SULTAN. 


From  Jerusalem 


U 


in  the  Herodium  (p.  111).  —  It  was  at  Jericho  that  the  Jewish  pilgrims 
from  Perrea  (E.  of  Jordan)  and  Galilee  used  to  assemble  on  their  way  to 
the  Temple;  and  Christ  also  began  his  last  journey  to  Jerusalem  from 
this  point  (Luke  xix.  1).  —  As  early  as  the  4th  cent,  the  councils  of  the 
church  were  attended  by  bishops  of  Jericho.  The  emperor  Justinian 
caused  a  'church  of  the  mother  of  God1  at  Jericho  to  be  restored,  and  a 
hospice  for  pilgrims  to  be  erected.  New  Jericho,  on  the  site  of  the  present 
village,  sprang  up  in  the  time  of  the  Crusaders,  who  built  a  castle  and  a 
church  of  the  Holy  Trinity  here.  The  place  was  afterwards  inhabited  by 
Muslims  and  gradually  decayed. 

-  Jericho  (EriM;  ca.  820ft.  below  the  sea-level),  the  seat  of  a 
Mudir,  consists  of  a  group  of  squalid  hovels,  the  Serai  (government 
building),  and  a  few  shops.  It  is  also  one  of  the  three  seats  of 
administration  for  the  crown  domains  in  the  valley  of  Jordan, 
which  extend  from  the  Sea  of  Tiberias  to  the  Dead  Sea.  The 
inhabitants,  about  300  in  number,  seem  to  be  a  degenerate  race, 
on  whom  the  hot  and  unhealthy  climate  (p.  lii)  has  had  an  ener- 
vating effect.  The  vegetation  is  thoroughly  sub-tropical.  In  the 
garden  of  the  Russian  church  are  the  remains  of  a  large  building 
(perhaps  a  church)  with  piers  and  mosaic  pavement.  The  only  other 
curiosity  in  the  village  is  a  building  on  the  S.E.  side,  resembling  a 
tower.  It  probably  dates  from  the  Frank  period,  when  it  was  erected 
for  the  protection  of  the  crops  against  the  incursions  of  the  Beduins. 
Since  the  15th  cent,  this  building  has  been  said  to  occupy  the  site 
of  the  House  of  Zacchaeus  (Luke  xix.  1-10).  In  the  4th  cent,  the 
sycamore  into  which  Zacchaeus  climbed  was  shown. 

Everywhere  the  ground  is  overgrown  with  thorny  underwood ,  some- 
times taking  the  form  of  trees,  such  as  the  Zizyphus  Lotus  and  Z.  spina 
Christi  (the  nebk  and  sidr  of  the  Arabs),  the  fruit  of  which  ('jujubes', 
Arab.  d6m)  is  well  flavoured  when  ripe.  The  formidable  thorns  of  these 
rhamnacese  ,  from  which  Christ's  crown  of  thorns  is  said  to  have  been 
composed,  are  used  by  the  peasants  in  the  construction  of  their  almost 
unapproachable  fences.  Among  the  other  plants  occurring  here  is  the 
Zakkum  tree  (Balanites  jEgyptiaca),  also  called  the  pseudo-balsam  tree,  or 
balm  of  Gilead,  with  small  leaves  like  the  box,  and  fruit  resembling 
small  unripe  walnuts,  from  which  the  Arabs  prepare  'pseudo-balsam'  or 
'Zaccheeus  oil',  quantities  of  which  are  sold  to  pilgrims.  The  'rose  of 
Jericho'  ( Anastatica  hierochuntica)  does  not  occur  here  (comp.  p.  170).  Near 
Jericho  is  also  found  the  Solarium  sanctum  (Arab,  hadak),  a  very  woody 
shrub,  3-4>/2  ft.  high,  with  broad  leaves,  woolly  on  the' under  side.  The 
fruit  looks  like  an  apple,  being  first  yellow ,  and  afterwards  red,  and 
containing  black  seeds.  It  is  sometimes  called  the  apple  of  Sodom  (for 
the  genuine  apple  of  Sodom,  see  p.  170),  and  has  been  erroneously  con- 
nected with  the  wine   of  Sodom   mentioned   in  Gen.  xix.  32. 

A  pleasant  occupation  for  the  evening  is  a  walk  to  the  'Ain  es- 
Sultan  ('Sultans  Spring'),  about  1  M.  to  the  N.W.  The  water  of  the 
copious  spring  (temp.  80°Fahr.)  is  collected  in  a  pond,  in  which 
numerous  small  fishes  dart  about.  Close  by  is  a  mill ;  and  a  conduit 
conveys  water  to  the  different  gardens.  According  to  an  early  tradition 
this  was  the  water  which  Elisha  healed  with  salt  ( '2  Kings  ii.  19-2*2), 
whence  it  is  called  ElishcCs  Spring  by  the  Christians.  Remains  of  a 
paved  Roman  road  have  been  found  in  the  vicinity.  Above  the  spring 
the  site  of  the  House  ofRahab  (Josh,  ii.)  was  formerly  shown. 

Taking  the  road  to  the  W.,  we  reach  the  ruins  of  three  mills 


to  the  Dead  Sea. 


KARN  SARTABEH. 


IS.  Route.    129 


called  Tatvahtn  es-Sukkar  (sugar-mills),  in  reminiscence  of  the 
culture  of  the  sugar-cane  which  flourished  here  clown  to  the  period  of 
the  Crusaders,  and  might  still  be  profitably  carried  on.  Proceeding 
to  the  N.W.  from  the  uppermost  mill  (20  min.  from  'Ain  es-Sultdri) 
for  1/2nr-i  we  re&cn  the  'Ain  en-Nawd'imeh  and  'Ain  Duk,  the  springs 
of  the  well-watered  Wddi  en-Nawd'imeh.  Near  the  springs  are  remains 
of  a  fine  aqueduct.  Here  probably  lay  the  ancient  castle  of  Docus 
(1  Mace.  xvi.  15),  where  Simon  Maccabaeus  was  assassinated  by  his 
son-in-law. 

A  (10  min.)  footpath  diverging  from  the  road  to'Ain  Duk  leads 
past  the  plantations  of  the  Greek  monastery  to  the  (20  min.) 
hermits'  caverns  on  the  Jebel  Karantal,  used  as  a  place  of  punish- 
ment for  Greek  priests.  The  grotto  in  which  Jesus  is  said  to  have 
spent  the  40  days  of  his  fast  (Matth.  iv.  1  et  scq.)  is  used  as  a  chapel. 
The  name  of  the  mountain  is  an  Arabic  corruption  of  the  name 
Quarantana ,  which  was  first  applied  to  the  hill  in  1112.  The 
Frankish  monastery  on  the  hill  was  dependent  on  Jerusalem. 

Among  the  dill's  higher  up  (40  min.)  there  are  the  ruins  of  a  'Chapel 
of  the  Temptation',  as  well  as  several  rows  of  hermitages,  some  of  which 
have  even  been  adorned  with  frescoes.  These,  however,  are  accessible 
only  to  practised  climbers.  The  weird  seclusion  of  the  spot  attracted 
anchorites  at  a  very  early  period.  Thus  St.  Chariton  (p.  110)  is  said  once 
to  have  dwelt  here,  and  the  hermitages  were  enlarged  by  Elpidius.  —  The 
summit  of  the  hill,  which  can  be  reached  more  easily  from  the  W.  side 
(in  I1/2  hr.;  guide  necessary),  commands  a  noble  prospect.  On  the  S. 
side  the  Karantal  is  separated  from  the  hill  Nkeib  el-Kheil  by  the  deep 
Wddi  Deiiitin.     On  the  top  of  the  hill  are  traces  of  Frankish  fortifications. 

From  Jericho  to  Beisan.  This  excursion  (15  hrs.),  for  which  an 
escort  is  indispensable,  can,  on  account  of  the  heat,  be  made  early  in  the 
season  (March)  only.  —  The  Jordan  valley  contains  a  number  of  artificial 
hills  (tells),  in  the  interior  of  some  of  which  bricks  have  been  found.  We 
cross  (55  min.)  the  Wddi  Nmcd'imeh  (see  above);  on  the  left  the  rock  'Osh 
el-  Ghurdb  (ravens'  nest;  perhaps  Oreb,  Judges  vii.  25),  with  a  little  valley, 
Mesd'adel  'fsd  ('ascent  of  Jesus').  Here,  previously  to  the  12th  cent.,  was 
shown  the  mountain  of  the  Temptation.  Then  (50  min.)  the  Wddi  el- 
'Auj'eh ,  the  (35  min.)  Wddi  el-Abyad,  the  (3/4  hr.)  Wddi  Reshush ,  and 
the  (1  hr.)  Wddi  Fasdil,  or  Mudahdireh.  At  the  foot  of  the  mountains  lie 
the  ruins  of  Kldrbet  Fasdil,  the  ancient  Phasaelis,  a  town  which  Herod 
the  Great  named  after  Phasaelus ,  his  younger  brother,  and  presented  to 
his  sister  Salome.  Palms  were  once  extensively  cultivated  here.  A  much- 
frequented  highroad  ascended  the  valley  of  the  Jordan  via  Phasaelis  to 
Cresarea  Philippi  (p.  259). 

Beyond  (1  hr.)  the  Wddi  Fatdil  the  valley  of  the  Jordan  contracts. 
The  second  peak  to  the  left  is  the  lofty  Kam  Sartabeh,  1243  feet  above 
the  sea-level,  2227  feet  above  the  Jordan  valley,  the  great  landmark  of 
the  valley  of  Jordan.  According  to  the  Talmud  the  Kara  Sartabeh  belonged 
to  a  chain  of  mountains  on  which  the  time  of  new  moon  was  proclaimed 
by  beacon-fires.  In  ascending  it  from  the  S.  we  find  remains  of  a  conduit. 
The  ruins  which  cover  the  top  consist  of  large,  drafted,  rough-dressed 
blocks  and  probably  belonged  to  the  Alexandreion,  a  castle  built  by 
Alexander  Jannseus  and  refortitied  by  Herod. 

To  the  N.  of  the  Sartabeh  the  valley,  of  the  Jordan  becomes  better 
watered  and  more  fertile.  On  the  left  extends  the  beautiful  plain  of  the 
Wddi  el-Fdr'a  (p.  220).  In  this  wadi  lies  Kardwa  (the  Koreae  of  Josephus), 
and  farther  up  are  the  rnins  of  liuseiliyeh,  probably  the  ancient  Archelaist 
erected  by  Herod  Archelaus,  the  son  of  Herod  the  Great.    The  best  sugar- 


130   Route  15. 


THE  JORDAN. 


From  Jerusalem 


canes  known  in  mediaeval  times  were  cultivated  near  Karawa.  Farther 
to  the  N.  the  Nahr  ez-Zerkd  (p.  138),  descending  from  the  E.,  empties  itself 
into  the  Jordan. 

We  next  reach  (2'/4  hrs.  from  Karn  Sartabeh)  the  caverns  of  MakhrHd, 
the  (1  hr.  20  min.)  Wddi  Abu  Sedra,  and  the  C/4  hr.)  Wddi  Bukei'a.  The 
road  crosses  the  (55  min.)  Wddi  TUbds ,  the  ('/*  hr.)  Wddi  jemel ,  the 
(40  min.)  Wddi  Fiyydd.  a  Branch  of  the.  Wddi  el-Mdlih,  and  then  several 
other  branches  of  the  same  large  valley,  and  reaches  (50  min.)  'Ain  Fer"&n, 
by  the  ruins  of  SdkUt.  The  route  passes  the  Tell  Huma  on  the  right  and 
leads  to  the  (1  hr.Y'Ain  el-Beidd,  a  copious  spring.  The  brook  El-K/iazneh 
is  crossed  (35  min.)  near  the  ruins  of  Berdela,  the  (20  min.)  spring  of 
Mdkhtis  and  the  (1  hr.)  Tell  Ma'jera  (p.  220)  are  passed,  and-  we  at  length 
reach  (1  hr.)  Beisdn  (p.  235).  Where  the  brook  JdlAd  flows  into  the 
Jordan  there  is  a  ford  'Abdra,  which  has  been  supposed  to  be  the  Betha- 
bara  (house  of  the  ford)  of  John  i.  28  (p.  131). 

Two  roads  lead  to  the  Jordan.  The  shorter  (IV2  hr.)  is  suitible 
for  driving  in  fair  weather;  it  crosses  the  Wddi-el-Kelt  a  short 
distance  heyond  Jericho,  and  leads  in  an  E.S.E.  direction  across  the 
uncultivated  plain.  In  Wj\  hr.  we  see,  at  some  distance  before  us, 
the  Monastery  of  St.  John  (see  below).  Leaving  this  on  the  left, 
we  descend  along  the  steep  clayey  side  of  the  old  bed  of  the  river, 
and  in  V4  ur-  reach  the  bathing-place  of  the  pilgrims  in  the  Jordan, 
which  is  bordered  here  with  tamarisks,  willows,  and  large  poplars 
(Populus  euphraticn). 

The  second  of  the  Iwo  roads  mentioned  above  is  somewhat  longer, 
but  is  suitable  for  driving  in  all  weathers.  It  runs  along  the  N.  side  of 
the  Wadi  el-Kelt.  After  '/a  hr.  we  come  to  a  fine  terebinth  (known  as 
Jajarat  el-Ellih).  Close  by  it  are  an  ancient  pool  and  a  small  bill  called 
Tell  JeljUl,  possibly  Gilgal,  where,  according  to  Joshua  (iv.  19  &  20),  the 
Israelites  erected  twelve  stones  in  commemoration  of  their  passage  of 
the  Jordan.  A  wooden  church  stood  on  the  latter  spot  in  723,  and  in 
the  time  of  the  Crusaders  also  we  hear  of  a  church  enclosing  the  twelve, 
stones.  —  The  Gilgal  mentioned  in  1  Sam.  (vii.  16;  xi.  14  et  seq.)  probably 
lay  to  the  N.W.  of  Jericho. 

Hence  we  reach  in  1  hr.  the  Greek  monastery  of  Deir  Mdr  Yuliannd 
('Monastery  of  St.  John'),  usually  called  Kasr  el-Yelitid  ('castle  of  the  Jews'). 
This  stands  on  the  remains  of  a  monastery  of  St.  John  which  was  in 
existence  as  early  as  the  time  of  Justinian  and  ,  according  to  tradition, 
was  erected  by  the  Empress  Helena  over  the  grotto  where  John  the  Baptist 
dwelt.  It  was  restored  in  the  12th  cent. ;  a  number  of  vaults ,  frescoes, 
and  mosaics  are  still  visible.  From  Kasr  el-Yehud  we  reach  the  bathing- 
place  of  the  pilgrims  in  l/t  hr. 

~. — "The  Jordan  (Hebrew  Yarden;  Arabic  Esh-  S/terifa  el-Kebir,  i.e.  the 
{^•-^large  watering-place)  rises  on  Mt.  Hermon  (pp.  259,260),  1706  ft.  above  the 
sea.  It  has  two  main  collecting-basins ,  the  upper  at  the  Lake  of  Huleh 
(p.  253),  7  ft.  above  the  level  of  the  sea,  and  the  lower  and  larger  one  in 
the  Lake  of  Tiberias  (p.  249),  682  ft.  below  the  surface  of  the  Mediterranean 
Sea.  Its  main  course,  from  the  Lake  of  Tiberias  to  the  Dead  Sea,  has 
a  fall  of  610  ft.,  and  a  length,  owing  to  its  numerous  windings,  of  up- 
wards Of  185  M.,  while  the  air-line  distance  botween  the  two  lakes  is 
little  more  than  60  M.  The  deep  valley  of  the  river  is  called  El-Oh6r 
by  the  Arabs,  while  the  Hebrews  gave  the  name  of  'Araha  (p.  175)  to 
that  part  of  the  valley  between  the  Lake  of  Tiberias  and  the  Dead  Sea. 
From  time  immemorial  this  has  formed  a  natural  boundary,  as  the  paths 
descending  to  the  river  are  alf  wild  and  rugged.  Most  of  the  N.  part  of 
the  valley  is  fertile,  while  in  the  S.  part  barren  tracts  alternate  with 
green  oases.  Many  of  the  tributary  streams,  particularly  those  on  the  E. 
side  (comp.  pp._138, 159,  160),  are  perennial.   In  the  course  of  time  the  river 


■riJ^n,  £>  1*aX~ 


to  the  Dead  Sea. 


THE  JORDAN. 


15.  Route.    131 


has  worn  for  itself  two  channels.  The  older  channel,  which  we  first  reach, 
takes  1/2  hr.  to  cross.  The  present  and  deeper  channel  averages  only 
100  ft.  in  width,  but  the  river  often  overflows  its  banks  in  time  of  rain. 
The  thicket  (ez-zdr)  which  conceals  the  water  from  view  harbours  wild 
boars  and  many  birds,  and  was  formerly  infested  by  lions  (Jerem.  xlix.  19). 
The  water  is  of  a  tawny  colour  from  the  clay  which  it  stirs  up  in  its 
rapid  course,  and  its  temperature  is  high.  It  contains  numerous  fish.  — 
In  ancient  days,  as  at  present,  the  Jordan  seems  to  have  been  crossed 
almost  exclusively  at  its  few  fords  (1  Sam.  xiii.  7;  2  Sam.  x.  17):  but 
David  and  Barzillai  were  conveyed  across  it  in  a  ferry-boat  (2  Sam.  xix.  18,31). 
The  most  famous  ford  is  that  of  Mdhddet  Hajleh.  Another  ford,  El-Henu, 
lies  farther  to  the  S. 

^^'The  bathing-place  of  the  pilgrims  is  supposed  to  be  the  scene 
of  the  Baptism  of  Christ  (Mark  i.  5-11).  The  miraculous  division  of 
the  waters  by  the  cloak  of  Elijah  (2  Kings  ii.  8),  and  the  legend  of 
St.  Christopher,  who  carried  the  infant  Christ  across  the  river,  are 
also  localized  at  this  ford.  In  the  middle  ages  the  spot  was  supposed 
to  be  somewhat  farther  up.  We  have,  however,  no  trustworthy  clue 
to  the  site  of  Bethabara  (John  i.  28) ,  though  the  two  monasteries  of 
St.  John  (pp.  130, 133)  afford  a  proof  that  the  baptism  of  Christ  was 
at  a  very  early  period  believed  to  have  been  performed  here.  Baptism 
in  Jordan  was  as  early  as  the  time  of  Constantine  deemed  a  special 
privilege.  In  the  6th  cent.  Antoninus  found  a  great  concourse  of 
pilgrims  here  and  records  that  both  banks  were  paved  with  marble. 
The  pilgrims  were  conducted  ,  or  rather  hurried,  into  the  water  by 
Beduin  guides,  and  quarrels  among  the  Christians  were  not  uncom- 
mon. Down  to  the  present  timothe  Greeks  attach  great  importance 
to  the  bath  in  Jordan  as  the  termination  of  a  pilgrimage.  The  great 
caravan  starts  for  the  Jordan  before  Epiphany,  and  the  encampment, 
on  the  bank  of  the  river,  lighted  with  pitch-pine  torches,  presents  a 
quaint  and  interesting  spectacle.  After  the  water  has  been  blessed 
before  daybreak  by  a  high  church  dignitary,  men  and  women  bathe 
together  in  their  white  garments.  At  Easter  and  other  seasons  also 
crowds  of  pilgrims  are  often  encountered  here.  Many  of  the  pilgrims 
fill  jars  from  the  river  to  be  used  for  baptisms  at  home.  —  Caution 
is  recommended  to  those  who  cannot  swim,  as  the  stream  is  very 
rapid  and  deepens  towards  the  E.  bank. 

^.  The  Routr  from  the  Bathing  Placb  to  the  Dead  Sba 
(drinking-water,  see  p.  127)  is  practicable  for  carriages  (p.  125)  in 
dry  weather  only,  since  the  clay-soil,  coated  with  strata  of  salt  and 
gypsum,  is  very  soft  after  rain.  The  way  leads  through  the  bushes 
on  the  bank  of  the  river,  and  then  across  the  open  country.  In  1  hr. 
wc  reach  the  bank  of  the  Dead  Sea.  The  view  of  the  sea  and  the 
mountains ,  which  are  usually  veiled  by  a  slight  haze,  is  very 
beautiful.  Seen  from  a  distance,  the  water  is  of  a  deep-blue  colour, 
but  when  close  at  hand  it  assumes  a  greenish  hue.  The  promontory 
on  the  right  is  Bds  Feshkhah.  Farther  to  the  S.  is  Rd$  Mersid,  beyond 
which  lies  Engedi  (p.  169).  The  Mouth  of  the  Jordan  (3/4  hr.  to 
the  E.)  is  not  visible;  at  the  N.E.  corner  of  the  Dead  Sea  is  the 


132   Route  15. 


DEAD  SEA. 


From  Jerusalem 


influx  of  the  Wddi  es-Suweimeh  (perhaps  the  Beth-jesimoth  of  Numbers 
xxxiii.  49);  to  the  left,  at  some  distance,  is  seen  the  ravine  of  the 
Zerkti  Md'7n  (p.  148).    Comp.  also  the  Map  at  p.  11. 

The  Dead  Sea,  called  in  the  Bible  the  Salt  Sea  or  Sea  of  the 
Cadmonites  (i.e.  'Eastern  people'),  also  named  by  the  Greeks  and 
Romans  the  Sea  of  Asphalt,  is  commonly  called  Bahr  LUt,  or 
Lake  of  Lot,  by  the  Arabs,  Mohammed  having  introduced  the 
story  of  the  destruction  of  Sodom  (p.  173)  and  the  rescue  of  Lot 
into  the  Koran.  Its  surface  lies  1292  ft.  below  the  Mediterranean 
Sea,  but  its  level  varies  from  13  to  20  ft.  with  the  seasons.  The 
Dead  Sea  is  47  M.  long,  and  its  greatest  breadth  is  about  10  M. 
(both  dimensions  being  about  the  same  as  those  of  the  Lake  of 
Geneva);  its  greatest  depth  (1310  ft.)  reaches  a  point  2G0O  ft. 
below  the  level  of  the  Mediterranean.  On  the  E.  and  W.  sides 
it  is  flanked  by  precipitous  mountains,  with  often  little  or  no 
space  between  them  and  the  water.  The  shallow  S.  bay  of  the  sea 
(ll'/aft-  only  in  depth)  is  separated  from  the  main  basin  by  a  low 
peninsula  (Arab.  El-Lisdn,  'tongue';  Josh.  xv.  2).  At  the  S.W.  end 
of  the  lake  are  huge  deposits  of  rock-salt  (p.  173).  It  has  been 
calculated  that  61/2  million  tons  of  water  fall  into  the  Dead  Sea 
daily,  the  whole  of  which  prodigious  quantity  must  be  carried  off  by 
evaporation.  In  consequence  of  this  extraordinary  evaporation  the 
water  that  remains  behind  is  impregnated  to  an  unusual  extent  with 
mineral  substances.  The  water  contains  24  to  26  per  cent  of  solid 
substances,  7  per  cent  of  which  is  chloride  of  sodium  (common  salt). 
The  chloride  of  magnesium,  which  also  is  largely  held  in  solution,  is 
the  ingredient  which  gives  the  water  its  nauseous,  bitter  taste,  while 
the  chloride  of  calcium  makes  it  feel  smooth  and  oily  to  the  touch. 
The  average  specific  gravity  of  the  water  is  1.166.  Fresh  eggs  float 
in  it  with  a  third  of  their  volume  above  the  water.  The  human  body 
floats  without  exertion  on  the  surface,  and  can  be  submerged  only 
with  difficulty;  but  swimming  is  unpleasant,  as  the  feet  have  too 
great  a  tendency  to  rise  to  the  surface.  The  strong  saline  solution 
destroys  all  organic  life  with  the  exception  of  a  few  microbes,  and 
even  sea-fish  put  into  its  waters  speedily  die.  Sea-birds,  however, 
may  occasionally  be  seen  swimming  on  it.  —  The  lake  was  navigated 
in  the  time  of  Josephus  and  in  the  middle  ages.  The  ruined  build- 
ings on  its  bank  were  probably  hermitages. 

The  subsidence  that  formed  the  whole  Jordan  -  'Araba  depression 
dates  from  the  end  of  the  tertiary  period.  The  Dead  Sea  could  never 
have  been  connected  with  the  Red  Sea  as  was  at  one  time  supposed 
(comp.  p.  175).  This  inland  lake  was,  on  the  other  hand,  the  collecting 
reservoir  for  the  enormously  copious  rainfall  of  the  first  ice  age,  during 
which  the  water-level  was  about  1400  ft.  higher  than  at  present,  or  about 
105  ft.  above  the  level  of  the  Mediterranean.  Lacustrine  deposits,  with 
traces  of  fresh-waler  fauna,  were  discovered  at  this  height  by  Hull.  At 
that  time  the  Dead  Sea  filled  the  valley  of  the  Jordan  as  far  as  the  Lake 
of  Tiberias.  It  seems  clear  that  the  N.  bank  has  considerably  receded 
within  the  historic  period  (comp.  ZDPV.  xvii.  225  et  scq.),  and  recent  ob- 
servers maintain  that  the  level  of  the  water  is  again  rising  (comp.  p.  173).  — 


to  the  Dead  Sea. 


DEAD  SEA. 


15.  Route.    133 


The  earlier  accounts  of  the  Dead  Sea  were  somewhat  exaggerated,  and 
our  first  accurate  information  about  it  is  due  to  the  expedition  which 
the  United  States  of  America  sent  to  explore  it  in  1848  (see  Report  of  the 
Expedition  of  the  United  States  to  the  .Tordan  and  Dead  Sea,  by  W.  F.  Lynch). 
Further  explorations  have  been  made  by  De  Saulcy,  the  Due  de  Luynes,  and 
the  Palestine  Survey  Expedition.  [Comp.  also  Blanckenhom,  Entstehung 
und  Geschichte  des  Toten  Meeres,  in  ZDPV.  xix.  1  et  seq.,  and  the  same 
author's  'Das  Tote  Meer',  Berlin,  1898,  with  map.] 

The  Salt  found  in  the  Dead  Sea  and  the  argillaceous  strata  adjoining 
it  has  been  collected  since  the  earliest  times  (p.  170)  and  is  considered 
particularly  strong.  Asphalt  is  said  to  lie  in  large  masses  at  the  bottom 
of  the  lake,  but  it  seldom  comes  to  the  surface  except  when  loosened  by 
storms  or  earthquakes.  Others,  however,  think  that  the  asphalt  proceeds 
from  a  kind  of  breccia  (a  conglomerate  of  calcareous  stones  with  resinous 
binding  matter)  which  lies  on  the  W.  bank  of  the  lake,  and  finds  its  way 
thence  to  the  bottom;  and  that,  when  (he  small  stones  are  washed  out, 
the  bituminous  matter  rises  to  the  surface.  The  asphalt  (bitumen)  of  the 
Dead  Sea  was  highly  prized  in  ancient,  times. 

The  Route  from  the  Dbad  Sba  to  Jericho  (l'/2  hr.)  leads 
through  the  plain  to  the  N.W.  About  halfway  we  see,  on  the  right 
(E.),  the  large  Monastery  of  St.  Gerasimos  (also  called  by  the 
natives  Deir  Mar  Yuhannd  Hajleli),  recently  built  on  the  ruins  of  an 
old  monastery,  probably  also  dedicated  to  St.  Gerasimos.  Traces  of 
frescoes  of  the  12th  and  13th  cent,  and  some  beautiful  ancient 
mosaics  are  preserved.  About  lOmin.  to  the  N.E.  of  the  monastery 
lies  the  lukewarm  spring  of  'Am  Hajleh.  The  ruins  of  Kasr  Hajleh, 
correspond  to  the  ancient  Beth  Hogla  (Josh.  xv.  6). 


From  the  Dead  Sea  back  to  Jerusalem  via  the  Monastery  of 
Mar  Saba.    <U  -  f  P~^  • 

Riders  from  the  Dead  Sea  to  Mar  Sdbd  take  5  hrs.,  thence  to  Jerusalem 
3  hrs.  (or  to  Bethlehem  23/4  hrs.).  —  For  this  excursion  the  traveller  must 
be  provided  with  a  guide  from  Abu  Dis  (p.  126;  inquire  at  the  hotels). 
The  right  of  escorting  travellers  is  in  the  hands  of  the  sheikh  of  this 
village.  It  is  customary  to  pay  the  sheikh  1  mejidi  per  day,  and  to  give 
the  guide  himself  1/2-I  mej.  at  the  end  of  the  journey.  A  letter  of  intro- 
duction to  Mar  Saba  should  be  procured,  with  the  aid  of  the  consul,  from 
the  Great  Greek  Monastery  at  Jerusalem  (p.  34),  as  otherwise  the  traveller 
will  not  be  admitted.  —  It  is  advisable  to  arrive  early  at  the  monastery, 
as  no  one  is  admitted  after  sunset,  even  when  duly  provided  with  letters. 

The  road  follows  the  bank  of  the  sea.  After  18  min.  we  leave 
the  'Ain  el-Jehayyir  to  the  left;  the  brackish  water  of  this  spring 
contains  pretty  little  fish  (Cyprlnodon  Sophiae).  We  then  leave  the 
sea  and  ascend  to  the  N.W.,  through  the  Wddi  ed-Dabr,  deeply 
eroded  by  its  brook,  and  partly  overgrown  with  underwood ,  where 
game  is  said  to  abound  (partridges,  wild  pigeons,  hares,  etcO. 
After  35  min.  we  enjoy  a  fine  view,  to  the  N.E.,  of  the  Jordan  valley 
and  the  Dead  Sea.  The  route  then  leads  to  the  left,  skirting  a  deep 
ravine,  and  affording  several  other  points  of  view.  To  the  right  we 
soon  perceive  the  pass  of  Nekb  Wddi  Musd,  and  in  35  min.  we  enter 
the  Wddi  el-Keneitera.  Along  the  wayside  are  numerous  heaps  of 
stone  (shaivdhid),  in  token  that  En-Nebi  Musd  or  Tomb  of  Moses  is 
now  visible.    This  Muslim  pilgrim -shrine,  of  which  we  have  no 


134   Route  15. 


MAR  SABA. 


From  the  Dead  Sea 


notice  earlier  than  the  13th  cent.,  is  visited  every  Good  Friday  by  a 
great  Muslim  pilgrimage,  accompanied  by  many  fanatical  dervishes. 
We  continue  our  ride  through  the  valley.  After  40  min.  the 
Jebel  el-Kahmun  rises  on  our  right,  and  we  reach  the  tableland  of 
El-Bukei'a,  which  ascends  towards  the  S.S.W.,  and  is  frequented  in 
spring  by  Beduins  of  the  tribe  of  Hteim.  The  view  hence  of  the 
Dead  Sea,  far  below  the  mountain-spurs,  is  grand  and  beautiful. 
After  42  min.  we  cross  the  Wddi  Kherabiyeh,  which  like  all  these 
valleys  descends  towards  the  E.  In  */2  nr-  we  reach  the  rain- 
reservoir  of  Vmm  el-Fiis.  After  20  min.  we  see  other  heaps  of  stones 
by  the  wayside  (see  p.  133).  After  35  min.  more  we  lose  sight  of 
the  Dead  Sea,  and  descend  by  a  bad  path  into  the  Wddi  en-Ndr,  or 
Kidron  valley,  the  floor  of  which  is  reached  in  28  minutes.  On  the 
other  side  the  path  ascends  and  in  20  min.  reaches  the  top  of  the 
hill  near  a  watch-tower,  where  our  goal,  the  monastery  of  Afar  Saba, 
now  lies  before  us. 

M&r  Sab&.  —  Accommodation  will  he  found  by  gentlemen  in  the 
monastery  itself;  ladies  must  pass  the  night  in  a  tower  outside  the  mon- 
astery walls.  Visitors  must  knock  loudly  at  the  small  barred  door  for  the 
purpose  of  presenting  their  letter  of  introduction  and  obtaining  admission. 
The  accommodation  is  rather  poor,  but  bread  and  wine  are  to  be  had,  and 
there  are  kitchens  for  the  use  of  travellers  who  bring  their  dragoman 
and  cook.  The  divans  of  the  guest-chamber  are  generally  infested  with 
fleas.  For  a  night's  lodging  3  fr.  each  is  paid,  besides  9-12  pi.  to  the 
servant,  and  3-6  pi.  to  the  porter.  —  The  best  place  for  pitching  tents  is 
opposite  the  monastery. 

History.  In  the  5th  cent,  a  Laura,  or  settlement  of  monks,  wa3 
founded  here  by  St.  Euthymius,  whose  favourite  pupil  Sabas  or  Saba  (born 
in  Cappadocia  in  439)  joined  him  in  this  wilderness.  As  the  reputation 
of  Sabas  for  sanctity  became  known,  he  was  joined  by  a  number  of 
anchorites,  with  whom  he  lived  according  to  the  rule  of  St.  Basilius.  In 
484  he  was  ordained  priest  by  Sallustius,  the  Bishop  of  Jerusalem,  and 
raised  to  the  rank  of  abbot  of  the  order  of  Sabaites  named  after  him. 
He  died  in  531  or  532,  after  having  greatly  distinguished  himself  in  theo- 
logical controversies  against  the  Monophysites  (p.  Ixi).  In  614  the  mon- 
astery was  plundered  by  the  Persian  hordes  of  Chosroes  (p.  lxxx),  and  in 
subsequent  centuries  its  wealth  repeatedly  attracted  marauders  (796  and 
842),  in  consequence  of  which  it  became  necessary  to  fortify  it.  It  was 
again  pillaged  in  1832  and  1834.  In  1840  it  was  enlarged  and  restored  by 
the  Russians. 

The  monastery  of  Mar  Saba,  now  occupied  by  about  50  monks, 
consists  of  a  number  of  terraces  adjoining  and  above  one  another, 
and  supported  by  massi\e  retaining-walls.  Every  available  spot  has 
been  converted  by  the  monks  into  a  miniature  garden.  Figs  ripen 
here  much  earlier  than  at  Jerusalem  ,  as  the  sun  beats  powerfully 
on  the  rocks.  In  the  centre  of  the  paved  court  stands  a  dome-covered 
Chapel,  decorated  in  the  interior  with  greater  richness  than  taste, 
containing  the  empty  tomb  of  Si.  Sabas.  This  sanctuary  is  the  chief 
attraction  for  pilgrims,  although  the  remains  of  the  saint  have  been 
removed  to  Venice.  To  the  N.  W.  of  this  detached  chapel  is  the 
Church  of  St.  Nicholas,  consisting  chiefly  of  a  grotto  in  the  rock, 
(.  ^     which  was  perhaps  once  a  hermitage.    Behind  a  grating  here  are 


to  Jerusalem. 


MAR  SABA. 


15.  Route.    135 


shown  the  skulls  of  the  martyrs  slain  by  the  troops  of  Chosroes. 
The  Monastery  Church ,  of  basilica  form ,  on  the  E.  side ,  is  un- 
interesting. The  tomb  of  Johannes  Damasoenus  (8th  cent.),  one  of 
the  last  distinguished  theologians  of  the  early  Greek  church,  Is  also 
shown  here.  —  Behind  the  church  lie  the  chambers  of  the  pilgrims 
and  the  cells  of  the  monks.  The  latter,  in  accordance  with  the  rule 
of  their  order,  lead  an  ascetic  life,  eating  little  else  than  vegetables, 
and  fasting  frequently.  Their  principal  occupation,  besides  the  care 
of  a  few  lunatics  ,  is  feeding  wild  birds  of  the  country  (pigeons, 
Columba  Schimpri,  and  pretty  little  black  birds  with  yellow  wings,  a 
kind  of  grackle,  Amydrus  Tristrami).  The  monastery  is  supported 
by  donations  and  by  the  rents  of  a  few  landed  estates.  One  of  the 
little  gardens  contains  a  palm-tree  which  is  said  to  have  been  planted 
by  St.  Sabas.  Its  dates  have  no  stones  (it  is  a  special  variety).  — 
The  chief  memorial  of  the  saint  is  his  grotto,  on  the  S.  side  of  the 
monastery.  A  passage  in  the  rock  leads  to  a  cavern,  adjoining  which 
is  a  smaller  chamber  called  the  lion's  grotto.  One  day,  as  the  legend 
runs,  the  saint  found  his  cave  occupied  by  a  lion,  but  nevertheless 
began  fearlessly  to  repeat  his  prayers  and  then  fell  asleep.  The  lion 
dragged  him  out  of  the  cave  twice,  but  the  saint  assigned  him  a 
corner  of  the  cavern,  after  which  they  lived  peaceably  together. 

Those  who  happen  to  pass  a  moonlight  night  in  the  monastery 
will  carry  away  the  most  distinct  idea  of  its  singularly  desolate  situ- 
ation. On  such  a  night  the  visitor  should  take  a  walk  on  the  ter- 
race and  look  down  into  the  valley.  The  rock  falls  away  perpen- 
dicularly into  the  ravine,  the  bottom  of  which  lies  about  590  ft.  below 
the  monastery,  and  at  about  the  same  level  as  the  Mediterranean. 
The  barren  heights  beyond  the  valley  contain  a  number  of  old 
hermitages. 

The  Road  fhom  M-i.it  Saba  to  Jerusalem  descends  into  the 
Kidrou  valley,  or  \Vadi  en-Nar  (20  min.),  and  then  ascends  it  on  the 
left  side.  Beyond  (7  min.)  a  Beduin  burial-place  (tomb  of  the  Sheikh 
Muzeiyif)  the  route  turns  to  the  left.  On  the  left  ( S.),  after  7  min. 
more,  we  observe  the  Bir  esh-Shems  ('sun  spring').  In  40  min.  we 
leave  the  Kidron  valley,  which  here  makes  a  circuit  towards  the  S. 
(the  path  through  the  valley  is  good,  but  takes  longer),  and  enter 
a  lateral  valley,  which  leads  to  the  N.W.  After  ^2  hr.  we  reach 
the  watershed,  whence  a  striking  view  of  Jerusalem  is  obtained. 
Descending  to  the  W.,  we  regain  (50  min.)  the  Kidron  valley,  the 
Greek  monastery  Deir  es-Sik  lying  on  the  hill  on  the  left;  on  the  right 
the  Wddi  KattUn  descends  from  the  Mt.  of  Olives.  In  i'i  hr.  we 
reach  Job's  Well  (p.  83),  and  in  '/4  hr.  more  the  Jaffa  Gate. 

Fbom  Mae  Saba  to  Bethlehem,  23/i  krs.  A  tolerable  path  ascends  to 
the  N.  from  the  upper  tower  of  the  monastery.  After  25  min.  the 
monastery-tower  disappears.  Far  below,  in  the  Wadi  en-Nar,  are  seen  the 
huts  of  the  natives  who  live  under  the  protection  of  the  monastery.  After 
10  min.  the  Mt.  of  Olives  comes  in  sight  on  the  right.  In  20  min.  we 
gain    the  top  of  the  hill,  whence  we  have  a  fine  view.     After  4  min.  we 


136    Route  16. 


GILEAD. 


From  Jericho 


descend  into  the  Wddi  el-'Ardis  (10  min.).  After  V«  hr.  wc  have  a  view 
of  Bethlehem,  and  on  the  right  rises  Mar  Elyas.  In  40  inin.  we  reach  the 
first  fields  and  orchards  of  Bethlehem.  The  monastery  of  Mar  Saba  also 
possesses  land  here.  We  leave  the  village  of  Beit  Sahur  to  the  left  and, 
passing  the  Latin  monastery,  reach  (25  min.)  Bethlehein  (p.  101). 


16.   From  Jericho  to  Es-Salt  and  Jerash. 

Ridebs  from  Jericho  to  Es-Salt  require  7'/2-8  hrs.;  thence  to  Jerash 
8  hrs.  (dragoman  and  tents  necessary).  An  escort  of  1  or  2  khaiyiils  is 
obtained  by  applying  to  the  dragoman  of  the  consulate  at  Jerusalem. 
Charge,  1  mej.  per  day  for  each  man. 

History.  Gilead,  in  the  wider  sense  of  the  name,  embraces  the  region 
inhabited  by  the  Israelites  to  the  E.  of  the  Jordan  from  the  Yarmfik  (N.) 
to  the  Arnon  (S. ;  p.  149).  This  hilly  region  was  bisected  by  the  brook 
Jabbok  (Zerkd;  p.  138).  At  the  present  day  the  name  Gilead  is  applied  to 
the  mountains  to  the  S.  of  the  lower  Zerka  (Jebel  Jil'dd).  —  Gilead  was 
a  pastoral  region  and  supported  numerous  flocks.  The  W.  slopes,  parti- 
cularly towards  the  N.W.,  are  wooded.  The  land  is  fertilized  by  a  copious 
supply  of  water  and  a  heavy  dew-fall.  The  E.  neighbours  of  the  Israelites 
were  the  Amtnoniles,  with  whom  they  carried  on  perpetual  war.  Jephthaii 
(Judg.  xi)  and  Saul  fought  against  them  (1  Sam.  xi),  and  David  captured 
Habbah  or  liabbalh  Amnion  (p.  143),  their  chief  city  (2  Sam.  xii.  29).  The 
Ammonites  do  not  disappear  from  history  till  the  2nd  cent.  B.C.  —  Gilead 
afterwards  belonged  to  the  northern  kingdom,  and  it  suffered  severely  in 
the  campaign  of  King  Hazael  of  Damascus  (2  Kings  x.  32,  33).  After  the 
return  from  the  captivity  a  number  of  Jews  settled  in  Gilead  in  the  midst 
of  a  heathen  population.  Alexander  Jannseus  frequently  waged  war  on 
behalf  of  Gilead.  Under  Herod  and  his  successor  Antipas  the  Human 
influence  began  to  gain  ground,  and  the  numerous  Roman  ruins  prove 
that  Roman  culture  afterwards  took  deep  root  in  Gilead. 

The  road  leads  from  Jericho  to  ( 1%  hr.)  the  Jordan,  which  it 
crosses  by  a  bridge  (toll  for  man  and  horse,  3  piastres).  Beyond 
the  river  the  road  forks,  the  right  (S.E.)  branch  leading  to  Madeba 
(p.  14C),  that  to  the  left  (N.E.)  to  Es-Salt.  On  reaching  the  (t/zki.) 
Wddi  Nimrtn  we  turn  to  the  right  (E.)  along  it,  leaving  the  great 
caravan-route,  which  continues  through  the  Wddi  el-Ahseniyat.  After 
3/4  hr.  we  reach  (to  the  right,  on  the  S.  side  of  the  valley)  the  ruins 
of  Tell  Nimrtn,  the  Beth  Nimrah  of  the  tribe  of  Gad  (Joshua  xiii.  27; 
Num.  xxxii.  3,  36),  near  which  the  'Waters  of  Nimrim'  (Is.  xv.  6) 
are  probably  to  be  sought.  Among  the  ruins  is  a  tomb  adorned 
with  the  figure  of  a  rider  with  a  sword.  [From  this  point  to  'Arak 
el-Emir,  see  p.  145.]  Our  route  next  ascends  the  Wddi  Sha'tb,  or 
upper  part  of  the  Wddi  Nimrtn,  at  first  along  the  right  bank;  after 
IV4  hr.  we  cr°ss  the  stream  and  continue  along  the  ridge  on  the  left 
bank.  In  l»/2  hr.  we  reach  (1.)  the  Weli  Nebi  Sha'tb.  [Shu'aib,  the  di- 
minutive of  Sha'ib,  is  the  name  given  in  the  Koran  to  the  Jetliro  of 
the  Bible,  Exodus  iii.  1.]  The  weli  is  hung  with  rags  (p.  lxxiv). 
About  10  min.  later  we  again  cross  the  stream  and  ascend  the  right 
tide  of  the  valley  to  the  spring  'Air.  el-Mukerf&t,  on  the  left  The 
valley  is  well  cultivated.  In  25  min.  we  reach  the  spring  'Ain  Hour, 
on  the  right,  and  in  35  min.  more  'Ain  Jdddr.  Above  this  spring 
is  a  large  group  of  tombs,  known  as  Sdra,  dating  from  early  Christian 
times.    In  10  min.  more  we  reach  — 


to  J  crash. 


ES  SALT. 


16.  Route.    137 


Es-Salt  (2740  ft.  above  the  sea),  capital  of  the  Kada  (p.  lvii)  of 
El-Belkd,  with  a  Turkish  Telegraph  Of (ice.    English  physician. 

Owing  to  an  erroneous  statement  by  Eusebius,  Iiamoth  Qilead  (1  Kings 
xxii.  3,  etc. ;  the  Mizpeh  of  Qilead  of  Judges  xi.  29)  has  been  sought  for 
here,  though  in  reality  it  must  have  lain  considerably  farther  to  the  N. 
On  the  other  hand  Gadara,  mentioned  by  Josephus  (Bell.  Jud.  iv.  7,  3)  as 
the  capital  of  Persea,  was  probably  situated  in  this  neighbourhood.  The 
name  Es-Salt  is,  perhaps,  derived  from  the  Latin  word  saltus  (wooded 
mountains).  '  Es-Salt  is  mentioned  as  the  seat  of  an  early  Christian  bishop. 
The  fortress  was  destroyed  by  the  Mongols,  but  soon  afterwards  rebuilt 
by  Sultan  Beibars  (p.  lxxxiv). 

Es-Salt  contains  ahout  15,000  inhabitants,  among  them  400  Prot- 
estants (English  mission-station,  church,  school,  and  dispensary), 
800  Latins  (church,  convent,  boys'  school,  and  girls'  school  managed 
by  the  Soeurs  de  Charite"),  about  3000  Greeks  (convent,  two  churches, 
boys'  and  girls'  schools),  and  11,000  Muslims  (Government  schools, 
elementary  and  high).  The  Muslim  Arabs  and  the  Christians  live 
harmoniously  together,  and  concur  in  their  cordial  detestation  of  the 
Turks;  they  have  much  in  common  with  the  nomadic  tribes  in  their 
customs  and  language.  Agriculture  and  vine-growing  are  the  chief 
resources  of  the  inhabitants,  but  some  of  them  are  engaged  in  in- 
dustrial pursuits.  The  market  is  much  frequented  by  the  Beduins. 
The  fields  yield  a  considerable  quantity  of  sumach,  which  is  exported 
for  dyeing  purposes.  The  raisins  of  Es-Salt  are  famous.  The  chief 
portion  of  the  town  lies  on  the  slope  of  a  hill  crowned  -with  the 
ruins  of  a  castle;  the  more  modern  parts  also  stretch  across  on  to 
the  hills  opposite.  On  the  S.  side  of  the  castle-hill  is  a  grotto  in 
which  rises  a  spring.  In  this  grotto  there  seems  once  to  have  been 
a  church  hewn  in  the  rocks.  It  still  contains  some  remains  of  sculp- 
ture and  a  passage  descending  to  an  artificial  grotto  below. 

From  Es-Salt  a  very  interesting  excursion  may  be  made  in  rather  less 
than  1  hr.  to  the  Jebel"  Osha'  (3595  ft.).  This  mountain  affords  a  magni- 
ficent view ,  embracing  a  considerable  part  of  Palestine.  The  Jordan 
valley,  for  a  great  distance,  is  stretched  at  our  feet  like  a  carpet.  The 
river,  of  which  a  white  strip  only  is  visible  at  a  few  points,  traverses  the 
vast,  yellowish  plain  to  the  Dead  Sea.  To  the  S.W.  the  flit,  of  Olives  is 
visible.  Mts.  Ebal  and  Gerizim  opposite  us  present  a  very  fine  appearance, 
flit.  Tabor  and  the  mountains  around  the  lake  of  Tiberias  are  also  visible, 
and  the  Great  Hermon  to  the  N.  terminates  the  panorama.  The  scene, 
however,  is  deficient  in  life.  —  Near  a  fine  oak  on  the  top  of  the  mountain 
is  the  weli  of  the  prophet  Osha'  (Arabic  for  Hosea),  which  is  about 
300  years  old.  The  tradition  is  probably  of  Jewish  origin.  The  prophet 
Hosea  belonged  to  the  northern  kingdom,  and  he  may  very  possibly  have 
been  born  in  the  country  to  the  E.  of  Jordan.  In  chap.  xii.  verse  11  he 
speaks  of  Uilead.  The  weli  contains  an  open  trough,  about  16  ft.  long, 
which  is  said  to  have  been  the  tomb  of  the  prophet.  The  Beduins  still 
kill  sheep  here  in  honour  of  Hosea. 

The  Route  from  Es-Salt  to  Jekash  ascends  rapidly  towards 
the  N.,  passing  in  */2  hr.  the  Nabulus  road,  which  diverges  to  the 
left  (following  the  telegraph-wires  ).  At  the  ( !/2  lir.)  summit  of  the 
pass,  on  which  are  the  ruins  of  Khirbet  el-Fuk'dn,  we  have  a  fine 
retrospect.  We  descend  to  the  N.E.  into  the  (10  min. )  W&di  Kuttein, 
in  which,  10  min.  lower,  the  'Ain  el-Haramiyeh  ('robbers'  spring') 


138   Iioute  16. 


JERASH. 


Situation. 


lies  hidden  among  the  woods  and  rocks.  Our  route  now  leads  us 
through  fine  woods,  consisting  of  massive  oaks  and  other  deciduous 
trees,  pines,  firs,  etc.,  festooned  with  numerous  climbing-plants  ;  but 
unfortunately  the  Circassians  who  dwell  in  this  neighbourhood  are 
recklessly  felling  the  trees.  From  the  (1  hr.)  farther  edge  of  the 
wood  we  reach  in  25  min.  the  Christian  village  of  Er-Remeimtn 
(120  Latins,  with  a  church,  and  150  Greeks,  with  a  chapel  and  a 
school).  A  steep  descent  of  10  min.  then  brings  us  to  a  ford,  over  the 
usually  well-filled  Wddi  er-Remeimln.  The  road  on  the  other  side 
of  the  stream  passes  (!/j  hr.)  a  stone  circle  (cromlech)  about  13  ft. 
in  diameter  (on  the  left),  and  in  i/i  hr.  more  reaches  the  top  of  the 
hill.  We  again  descend,  reaching  in  20  min.  a  waterfall  about  60  ft. 
high  in  the  Wddi  Salihi.  The  cascade  is  beautifully  set  in  an  idyllic 
frame  of  luxuriantly  verdant  creepers.  By  -and  -by  we  quit  the  stream 
and  ascend  the  hill  of  Dahrat  er-Rummdn  (!/2  hr.),  ^4  M.  beyond 
which  lies  the  Turcoman  village  of  Er-Rummdn.  After  10  min.  we 
cross  the  Wddi  er-Rummdn,  with  its  picturesque  stream;  25  min. 
A'in  Umm  RubV,  a  copious  spring  of  excellent  water;  12  min.  'Ain 
el-Mastaba,  a  feeble  spring.  Thence  we  reach  in  55  min.  more  the 
Nahr  ez-Zerkd  ,  a  little  below  the  influx  of  the  Wddi  Jerash.  The 
Nahr  ez-Zerka,  or  'blue  river',  is  the  Jabbok  of  the  Old  Testament 
(Gen.  xxxii.  22;  see  p.  136).  The  banks  are  bordered  with  oleanders. 
The  brook  is  generally  well  filled  with  water,  and  in  rainy  weather 
is  often  difficult  to  ford.  —  Crossing  the  river  and  riding  due  N. 
along  the  hills,  we  reach  (l3/4  hr. )  Jerash. 

Jerash  (Gerasa). 

The  best  place  for  pitching  Tents  is  near  the  North  Gate.  A  visitation 
of  the  ruins  takes  a  full  day. 

History.  Gerasa  is  first  mentioned  under  Alexander  Jannams,  who 
captured  it.  Its  freedom  was  restored  by  Pompey ;  and  it  afterwards  be- 
longed to  the  Decapolis  of  Persea.  Its  most  prosperous  period  was  early 
in  the  Christian  era.  Its  buildings  of  the  2nd  and  3rd  centuries  show  how 
Roman  influence  had  penetrated  even  to  such  remote  towns  as  this.  In 
the  4th  cent.  Gerasa  was  still  considered  one  of  the  largest  and  strongest 
towns  in  Arabia,  and  it  lay  on  a  great  Roman  military  road.  The 
valley  in  ancient  days  was  called  Ghrysorrhoas.  The  Arabian  geographer 
Yakut  (at  the  beginning  of  the  13th  cent.)  describes  Gerasa  as  deserted. 
The  ruin  of  the  town  seems  to  date  from  the  time  of  the  Arabian 
immigration.  There  is  now  a  settlement  of  Circassians  here.  —  Coinp. 
Schumacher  on  Jerash  in  ZDPV.  xxv.,  1902. 

Jerash  (1758  ft.  above  the  sea),  a  village  with  about  1500inhab. 
and  the  seat  of  a  Mudir  (p.  Mi),  lies  in  the  Wddi  Keirawdn  or 
Wddi  Jerash  (here  called  also  Wddi  ed-Deir),  on  the  left  bank  of  a 
copious  stream ,  which  is  bordered  with  oleanders.  The  imposing 
ruins  of  the  ancient  town  are  upon  the  loftier  right  bank,  but,  as 
they  are  used  as  quarries  for  building  the  new  houses ,  they  ar6 
rapidly  disappearing.  The  town-walls,  following  the  slopes  of  the 
hill,  are  partly  preserved,  and  are  about  3886  yds.  in  circumference. 
Material  for  all  the  ancient  buildings  was  furnished  by  the  limestone 


D'apres  0.  Scinun  a  rh  ei 

r — 


ex-Zikiiaiii.pl-Unesii  el-Mouietrib  | 

J  ft* 

/A* 


G-ravp   fit  nupriir.p  par"H';io"npr*.  Dnbos   I.ci] 


Southern  Theatre. 


JERASH. 


16.  Route.    139 


of  the  vicinity.  There  are  but  few  traces  of  basalt  and  other  costly 
materials. 

We  begin  our  inspection  of  the  ruins  with  the  large  Triumphal 
Gate  (Bab  'Amman)  to  the  S.  of  the  town,  a  handsome  building 
with  a  total  width  of  83  ft.  The  central  archway  is  21  ft.  wide,  39  ft. 
high,  and  22ft.  in  depth,  and  there  are  smaller  gateways  on  each 
side.  The  columns  on  the  S.  side  have  calyx-shaped  pedestals  of 
acanthus-leaves  above  their  bases.  Above  the  side-gateways  are 
square  niches  resembling  windows.  The  striking  similarity  of  the 
gateway  to  Trajan's  Arch  at  Rome  indicates  the  middle  of  the 
2nd  cent,  as  the  probable  period  of  its  erection.  —  To  the  W.  the 
gate  is  adjoined  by  a  large  basin,  now  filled  up  with  alluvial  deposit 
and  brought  under  the  plough.  The  lower  part  of  this  was  a  Nau- 
machia, or  theatre  for  the  representation  of  naval  battles,  170  yds. 
long  and  60  yds.  broad.  The  S.  retaining-wall  of  this,  lSVgfti,  thick, 
is  still  visible,  with  four  sluice-gates  for  the  admission  of  the  water. 
The  rows  of  seats  for  the  spectators  were  parallel  with  the  longer 
axis  of  the  basin.  An  aqueduct  connected  the  Naumachia  with  the 
spring  of  rAin  Keirawan  (p.  142).  The  N.  wall  of  the  Naumachia 
forms  the  S.  boundary  of  a  large  Circus,  measuring  295  ft.  by  180  ft. 
Four  rows  of  seats  are  preserved  here.  —  To  the  N.  of  the  circus  are 
remains  of  an  extensive  Necropolis. 

The  Southern  Gate  of  the  town,  which  is  now  almost  entirely 
destroyed,  appears  to  have  resembled  the  outer  gateway.  On  eacli 
side  it  was  once  evidently  connected  with  the  town-walls.  A  few 
paces  to  the  W.  of  the  town-gate  stand  the  ruins  of  a  Temple  (now 
called  Beit  et-Tei),  98  ft.  long  by  BG^ft-  wide.  It  was  a  peripteral 
temple,  with  11  columns  on  the  N.  and  S.  and  8  columns  on  the 
W.  and  E.  The  bases  of  the  columns,  11  ft.  distant  from  the  cella, 
are  easily  traced.  The  vestibule  seems  to  have  had  two  rows  of 
columns  with  Attic  bases  and  Corinthian  capitals.  The  portal  is 
1 5 1/-j  ft.  in  width.  The  cella,  the  S.  wall  of  which  is  still  standing 
to  a  height  of  33ft.,  was  82  ft.  long  by  50  ft.  wide.  The  mural  pil- 
lars of  the  finely  jointed  wall  have  been  deprived  of  their  capitals. 
Above  the  wall  is  a  simple  and  very  slightly  projecting  cornice.  The 
style  of  the  whole  building  is  tasteful. 

Adjacent  to  the  W.  side  of  this  temple  is  the  Southern  Theatre, 
measuring  288  ft.  in  its  longer  diameter,  and  containing  32  well- 
preserved  rows  of  seats.  The  stage,  now  in  ruins,  had  its  back 
to  the  town -wall,  so  that  the  spectators  must  have  enjoyed  an 
admirable  view  of  the  handsome  public  buildings  in  their  city.  A 
broad  passage,  approached  from  below  by  five  flights  of  steps  and 
from  above  by  nine,  divides  the  rows  of  seats  into  a  lower  and  an 
upper  section.  Eight  small  chambers  or  'boxes'  are  ranged  along 
this  gangway  or  gallery,  and  on  the  E.  it  communicates  with  the 
outside  of  the  building  by  four  vaulted  passages.  In  the  front  wall 
of  the  proscenium ,   once  fitted  up  with  great  magnificence ,  there 

Baedeker's  Palestine  and  Syria.    4th  Edit.  9 


140   Route  16. 


JERASEL 


Colonnade. 


were  three  portals,  the  central  of  which  was  of  rectangular  form, 
while  the  others  were  vaulted.  Along  the  inside  of  this  wall  ran  a 
row  of  Corinthian  columns,  and  between  these  columns  were  richly 
adorned  niches.  The  acoustic  arrangement  is  admirable.  The  theatre 
is  unfortunately  used  by  the  Circassians  as  a  convenient  quarry. 

The  so-called  Forum ,  to  the  N.E.  of  the  temple  and  theatre, 
consists  of  a  semicircle  of  56  columns  of  the  Ionic  order  opening  to 
the  S.W.  As  most  of  the  columns  are  still  erect  and  are  still  con- 
nected with  each  other  by  an  entablature,  they  present  a  very 
striking  appearance.    Portions  of  the  pavement  are  also  still  intact. 

To  the  N.E.  of  this  forum  begins  the  Colonnade,  fully  ^M.  in 
length,  by  which  the  whole  town  was  intersected.  Its  width  measured 
from  the  middle  of  the  columns  is  41  ft.;  the  intervals  between  the 
columns  vary  from  10  ft.  to  1 5  ft.  The  Colonnade  consisted  originally 
of  about  520  columns,  of  which  71  are  still  standing;  the  others 
have  been  overthrown  by  earthquakes  and  have  of  late  been  much 
mutilated  by  human  agency.  Including  the  base  and  capital,  the 
columns  are  from  21  to  30ft.  high;  the  shafts  are  composed  of 
drums  from  3  to  5  ft.  in  height,  and  are  all  unfluted.  Towards  the 
middle  of  the  town  the  columns  are  of  the  Corinthian  order  and  have 
fine  acanthus  capitals;  near  the  Forum  and  towards  the  N.  gate  they 
are  on  the  contrary  of  the  Ionic  order  and  somewhat  clumsy.  All 
these  differences  in  detail  afford  a  presumption  that  the  Colonnade 
was  erected  at  a  comparatively  late  period,  and  was  constructed  of 
materials  already  existing.  Remains  of  a  second  row  of  columns  on 
both  sides  of  the  street  seem  to  show  that  arcades  ran  along  the 
fronts  of  the  houses,  above  which,  on  a  level  with  the  first  story, 
there  were  probably  open  galleries. 

At  the  intersection  of  the  next  cross-street,  220  yds.  to  the  N. 
of  the  Forum ,  stood  a  Tetrapylon  [p.  xcv),  of  which  four  huge 
pedestals,  6^2  ft-  in  height,  with  niches  for  statues,  still  exist. 
These  supported  a  dome  32  ft.  in  diameter.  — The  cross-street  here 
was  also  flanked  by  columns,  only  a  few  of  which  still  remain.  It 
descends  to  the  E.  to  a  broad  flight  of  steps  and  to  a  Bridge  of  five 
arches,  the  central  one  of  which  is  371/2  ft.  wide.  The  aqueduct 
mentioned  at  p.  139  also  crosses  the  street  here. 

About  142  yds.  to  the  N.  of  the  Tetrapylon,  to  the  left  of  the 
Colonnade,  are  the  remains  of  a  large  building  with  a  Tribuna, 
within  the  semicircle  of  which  (11  yds.  across)  stood  a  fountain. 
The  building  had  two  stories,  which  were  separated  from  each  other 
by  a  cornice  with  brackets ,  and  each  of  which  was  articulated  by 
three  semicircular  and  four  rectangular  niches ;  at  the  top  is  a  rich 
cornice  with  'interrupted'  pediments.  The  interior  of  the  building 
is  filled  with  large  hewn  blocks,  scattered  in  wild  confusion. 

Farther  on  we  reach  the  Propylaea  of  the  Great  Temple,  which 
still  afford  an  idea  of  the  grandeur  of  the  original  structure,  in  spite 
of  their  ruined  condition.    The  style  of  this  tine  gateway  is  that  of 


Great  Temple 


JERASH. 


16.  Route.    141 


the  Roman  adaptation  of  the  Corinthian  order.  The  great  portal, 
the  architrave  of  which  has  fallen,  stands  hetween  two  window- 
niches  with  richly-decorated  pediments.  The  W.  side  of  the  Pro- 
pylaea  is  adorned  with  nobly  conceived  and  well-preserved  sculp- 
tures. To  the  right  and  left,  between  the  pilasters,  are  niches 
ending  above  in  the  form  of  a  shell;  over  these  is  a  small  gable  with 
delicate  ornamentation . 

^*  The  Great  Temple,  which  was  probably  dedicated  to  the  sun, 
stands  upon  a  terrace  527  ft.  long  and  344  ft.  wide ,  which  was 
enclosed  by  260  columns.  The  temple  itself  is  87^2  ft-  long  by  66  ft. 
wide,  and  rises  upon  a  podium  8  ft.  in  height,  the  flight  of  steps 
leading  to  which  has  disappeared.  The  portico  has  one  row  of  six 
columns  and  one  tow  of  four  columns,  besides  a  column  on  each  side 
at  the  end  of  the  projecting  temple-wall.  Nine  of  these  columns 
are  in  perfect  preservation  and  make  a  very  imposing  appearance. 
Including  their  bases  and  their  capitals,  which  are  adorned  with 
admirably  executed  acanthus  foliage,  they  are  45  ft.  high;  their 
lower  diameter  is  5  ft.  The  portal ,  which  was  16  ft.  in  width  ,  has 
fallen  in.  The  cella  has  a  clear  width  of  3672  ft.  and  is  56  ft.  long. 
it  is  for  the  most  part  in  a  state  of  ruin  and  its  floor  is  covered  with 
rubbish ;  part  of  the  enclosing  walls,  however ,  are  preserved ,  with 
six  oblong  niches  on  each  side.  The  image  of  the  deity  probably 
stood  in  the  vaulted  chamber  opening  in  the  rear  wall.  On  each 
side  of  the  door  in  the  rear  wall  were  flights  of  stairs  leading  to 
galleries.  The  Temple  probably  dates  from  the  first  half  of  the 
2nd  cent.  A.D.,  and,  in  any  case,  it  is  earlier  than  the  Colonnade. 

To  the  S.  of  the  Temple  is  a  Basilica  (with  nave  and  aisles)  built 
out  of  old  materials,  and  to  the  S.W.  of  it  is  a  smaller  Church,  but 
neither  of  these  is  important.  —  A  third  Church ,  to  the  E.  of  the 
Propylaea,  apparently  also  belonged  originally  to  the  precincts  of 
the  Temple  of  the  Sun.  The  nave  was  42^2  ft-  wide,  and  on  its  S. 
side  there  still  stand  seven  columns,  which  were  probably  brought 
hither  from  the  street  leading  to  the  second  bridge.  The  semicircular 
apse  of  the  nave  is  also  recognizable. 

About  165  yds.  to  the  N.  of  the  Propylaea  is  another  street- 
crossing,  also  marked  by  a  Tetrapylon.  This,  however,  was  round  in 
the  interior,  and  square  on  the  outside  only;  it  was  formerly  adorned 
with  statues.  The  cross-street,  of  which  only  three  columns  remain, 
was  adjoined  on  the  W.  by  the  North  Theatre,  and  on  the  E.,  near 
the  brook,  by  the  Thermae. 

The  North  Theatre,  which  seems  to  have  been  intended  for 
combats  of  gladiators  and  wild  animals,  possesses  17  tiers  of  seats 
with  a  total  height  of  39  ft.  The  corridor  between  the  eighth  and 
ninth  row  of  seats  is  reached  by  five  gangways,  between  each  pair 
of  which  are  a  large  niche  and  two  smaller  shell-shaped  niches.  The 
proscenium,  which  is  now  buried  in  rubbish,  lay  very  low,  and  was 
adorned  with  detached  columns. 

9* 


142 


Route  17. 


'AMMAN. 


From  Jerash 


The  extensive  ruins  of  the  Thermee  are  now  called  El-Kh&n. 
The  entrance  is  formed  by  a  well-preserved  dome-structure  about 
55  ft.  square.  A  staircase  led  to  the  bath  proper,  which  consisted  of 
a  main  building,  222  ft.  long  by  98  ft.  broad,  and  of  a  side-building 
to  the  S.,  138  ft.  long  by  38  ft.  broad.  The  vaulting  of  the  bath- 
chambers  has  fallen  in.  The  water  was  brought  by  an  aqueduct  from 
the  spring  of  'Ain  Keirawdn,  situated  to  the  N.E.,  beyond  the  brook. 

There  is  another  ancient  Bath  near  the  village  mosque. 

The  great  Colonnade  ends  at  the  North  Oate,  where  we  obtain 
a  beautiful  view.  The  direction  of  the  wall,  and  the  place  where 
it  crosses  the  brook,  are  distinctly  traceable  here.  —  On  the  E.  bank 
of  the  brook  are  the  enclosing  walls  of  a  fourth  Church,  which  is 
rapidly  being  torn  to  pieces.  This  building  is  197ft.  long  by  120  ft. 
wide;  the  nave  was  42  ft.  wide,  and  the  aisles  28  ft.  Internally  the 
chancel  has  a  semicircular  ending,  with  shell-shaped  niches,  but 
the  exterior  is  rectilineal.  The  only  remains  of  the  columns  are 
nine  bases  of  the  Attic  order  and  a  few  drums.  On  the  W.  this 
church  possessed  a  colonnade  with  a  portico  28  ft.  in  width.  Accord- 
ing to  an  inscription  it  was  originally  a  sanctuary  of  Nemesis,  dating 
from  the  time  of  Trajan. 

To  the  N. ,  outside  the  gate,  lay  the  most  important  Necropolis 
of  the  ancient  city.  The  road  to  the  (IV4  M.)  springs  of  Ez-Zlkndni 
is  flanked  all  the  way  on  both  sides  by  tombs ,  sarcophagi,  and  the 
like.  The  water  of  the  springs  is  collected  in  two  ponds ,  an  upper 
(295  ft.  by  157Vaft0  and  a  lower  (157V2  ft.  by  59  ft.),  and  was  con- 
ducted to  the  town  by  an  aqueduct.  About  110  yds.  farther  on  is 
the  large  mausoleum  of  Es-SamUri,  which  is  nearly  square  in  shape 
(26  ft.  by  28  ft.)  and  possesses  a  fine  portal  and  four  noble  Corin- 
thian columns. 

From  Jerash  to  El-Muzeirtb,  see  p.  168. 

17.  From  Jerash  to  El-Kerak  via  'Amman  and  Madeba. 

Guide  necessary  (3/*-l  mej.  a  day).  The  guides  do  not  always  follow 
exactly  the  same  route.  An  Escokt  (1  or  2  khayyals)  is  obtained  by  applying 
to  the  Mudir  in  Jerash.     Charge,  1  mej.  per  day  for  each  man. 

1.    From  Jerash  to  'Amman  (9'/2  hra.). 

We  descend  the  Wddi  Jerash  to  the  Zerkd  (l3/4  hr.),  ascend  the  mountain 
on  the  opposite  side,  and  proceed  in  a  S.  direction  (ruins  on  our  right) 
across  the  plateau.  In  about  3  hrs.  we  arrive  at  the  plain  of  El-Bukei'a. 
Crossing  the  plain  to  the  S.  and  proceeding  in  the  same  direction  across 
the  hills  at  its  S.  end ,  we  come  in  3  hrs.  to  the  beginning  of  the  Wddi 
el-Hammdm,  where  there  is  a  spring  and  the  ruin  of  Yajdz,  a  burial-place 
of  the  Beduins.  We  descend  the  valley  as  far  as  the  mouth  of  a  lateral 
valley,  where  we  again  ascend  to  the  S.  (to  the  left  below  us  are  ruins); 
after  1/2  hr.  we  have  above  us,  to  the  right,  Khirbet  Brikeh,  and,  passing 
the  castle,  we  reach  (H/4  hr.)  — 

'Amman  (2745  ft.  above  the  sea-level),  a  station  on  the  Hejaz  Railway 
(comp.  p.  151;  station  3  M.  to  the  N.E.  of  the  town)  and  the  seat  of  a 
Mudir  (p.  lvii).    The  government  has  established  a  colony  of  Circassians 


to  El-Kerak. 


'AMMAN. 


17.  Route.    143 


here.  —  The  ancient  Kabbah  or  Rabbath  Ammon ,  the  capital  of  the 
Ammonites,  was  besieged  and  taken  by  Joab  (2  Sam.  xii.  26-31).  Later, 
however,  it  appears  to  have  again  belonged  to  the  Ammonites  (Jerem. 
xlix.  2).  Ptolemy  II.  (Philadelphus)  of  Egypt  rebuilt  it  and  added  the 
name  Philadelphia,  and  for  several  centuries  it  was  a  thriving  place,  be- 
longing to  the  Decapolis.  It  never  quite  lost  its  original  name,  by  which 
alone  it  was  afterwards  known  to  the  Arabs.  The  ruins  of  'Amman  are 
still  among  the  finest  on  the  E.  side  of  the  Jordan,  but,  unhappily,  they 
are  rapidly  disappearing  with  the  increase  of  the  Circassian  colony. 


Ruins 

A  Mi  m  k  N 

1 :  2  2 .  5  o  0 
Yards 


The  Citadel  of 'Amman  lies  on  a  hill  on  the  N.  side,  which  towards 
the  S.W.  forms  an  angle,  and  towards  the  N.  is  separated  from  the  rest 
of  the  hill  by  a  (perhaps)  artificial  depression.  The  citadel  consists  of 
three  terraces,  rising  from  E.  to  W.  The  gate  is  in  the  S.  side.  The  very 
thick  enclosing  walls  are  constructed  of  large,  uncemented  blocks.  —  On  the 
uppermost  (W.)  terrace  the  traces  of  a  temple  (bases  of  the  columns  of  the 
pronaos)  are  still  visible,  and  there  is  a  well-preserved  tower  in  the  S. 
wall.  —  All  these  buildings  date  from  Roman  times ,  but  there  is  an 
interesting  specimen  of  Arab  architecture  on  the  uppermost  terrace.  For 
what  purpose  this  building  was  erected  cannot  now  be  determined.  It  can 
hardly  have  been  a  mosque.  The  details  of  the  work  in  the  interior  are 
magnificent.  —  The  citadel  commands  a  fine  view  of  the  entire  field  of  ruins. 

The  most  important  ruins  in  the  valley  below  are  as  follows  (from 
W.  to  E.).     1.  On  the  left  (K.)  bank  of  the  river ,   near  the  mouth  of  a 


144   Route  17. 


'  AMMAN. 


From  Jerash 


lateral  valley,  which  descends  from  the  W.,  is  a  Mosque  of  the  time  of 
the  Abbasides;  to  the  E.  of  this,  close  to  the  river,  is  a  Basilica  in  Byzantine 
style,  and  close  by  it  are  the  ruins  of  an  Arab  Bazaar.  — 2.  A  little  *o  the 
N.E.  are  the  remains  of  Thermae.  The  S.  wall  is  well  preserved ,  and 
consists  of  a  handsome  apse  connected  with  two  lateral  ones.  Columns 
are  still  standing  upright,  but  without  capitals.  At  a  great  height  are 
richly  decorated  niches,  and  holes  for  cramps  indicate  that  the  building 
was  once  decorated  with  bronze  ornaments.  A  conduit  running  parallel 
with  the  river  on  its  N.  bank  conveys  the  water.  Immediately  to  the  N.E. 
of  the  baths  is  an  old  bridge  and  close  by  are  the  rnins  of  the  landing-place ; 
a  little  farther  down  the  stream,  on  the  left  bank,  is  a  (ine  portico.  —  3.  Start- 
ing from  the  mosque  (see  above),  we  may  follow  the  course  of  the  ancient 
Street  of  Columns, which  ran  through  the  ancient  town  parallel  with  the  stream 
and  on  its  left  bank  for  a  distance  of  about  985  yds.  Only  a  very  few 
columns  now  remain  standing.  To  the  left  (N.)  of  the  street  of  columns 
and  in  the  middle  of  the  village  are  the  remains  of  a  Temple  (or  possibly 
a  forum)  of  the  late-Roman  period.  The  fragments  at  the  E.  end  of  the 
street  of  columns  seem  to  have  belonged  to  one  of  the  gates  of  the  town.  — 
4.  On  the  right  (S.)  side  of  the  brook,  well  stocked  with  fish,  lies  the 
Theatre,  in  excellent  preservation.  A  row  of  columns  runs  from  the 
theatre  to  the  Odeum  (see  below).  Another  colonnade  seems  to  have  run 
from  its  W.  corner  northwards  to  the  river.  The  stage  is  destroyed.  The 
tiers  of  seats  are  intersected  by  stairs.  Of  the  lowest  section  five  tiers  of 
seats  are  visible,  the  second  has  fourteen,  and  the  third  sixteen  tiers  of 
seats.  Between  the  second  and  third  sections,  and  particularly  above  the 
third,  are  boxes  for  spectators.  Words  spoken  on  the  stage  are  distinctly 
heard  on  the  highest,  tier  of  seats.  The  theatre  was  constructed  for  about 
3000  spectators.  To  the  N.E.,  in  front  of  the  theatre,  are  the  ruins  of  a 
small  Odeum  (usually  called  so,  although  it  was  not  covered).  There  are 
many  holes  in  front  for  cramps,  by  which  ornaments  were  attached.  The 
prosceninm  had  towers  on  each  side;  the  one  on  the  S.  is  still  preserved. 
—  5.  Descending  the  brook,  the  traveller  remarks  on  its  banks,  among  the 
gardens,  remains  of  Roman  walls.  The  whole  stream  w;is  vaulted  over  here 
for  a  distance  of  300  yds.  Farther  on  a  dry  lateral  valley  enters  from  the 
left.  Ascending  this  for  about  75  yds.,  we  reach  a  fine  Tomb  Monument  ( Kabr 
es-Sulldn)  on  the  left.  The  triple  vestibule  has  on  the  right  and  left  two 
recesses  with  niches;  the  central  hall  leads  to  a  chamber  with  3  shelf- 
tombs.  —  6.  There  are  also  ruins  of  buildings  on  each  side  of  the  street  of 
columns ;  in  the  neighbourhood  are  many  burying-places  and  dolmens. 

From  'Amman  to  Es-Salt,  5  hrs.  Ascending  from  the  castle  towards 
the  N.,  we  come  (10  min.)  to  the  ruins  of  a  building  and  to  (1/4  hr.) 
Rijm  el-Aneibideh,  beyond  which  we  ride  towards  the  N.W.  along  the  W. 
brink  of  the  Wddi  en-Nuweijis.  In  about  1/2  hr.  we  pass  Khirbet  Brikeh 
on  the  left,  and  (5  min.)  Rijm  el-MelfA'a,  also  on  the  left.  We  cross  a 
low  saddle,  and  in  1/2  hr.  reach  Khirbet  Ajbeihdl  (Jogbehah,  Numbers  xxxii. 
35).  The  route  then  (1/4  hr.)  descends  the  wadi  to  the  W.,  passes  (10  min.) 
'Ain  Suweilih  by  the  wadi  of  that  name  to  the  left,  and  reaches  (1/4  hr.) 
Khirbet  es-Sdftit,  with  the  remains  of  an  ancient  temple.  Beyond  a  (10  min.) 
spring  we  descend  the  Wddi  Harba,  and  (10  min.)  reach  the  plain  of  El- 
Buhefa  (p.  142),  the  S.  part  of  which  we  cross  in  '/2  br.,  leaving  Khirbet 
'Ain  el-Bdsha  to  the  right.  In  10  min.  we  see  Birket  Tawla  on  a  hill  to 
the  W.,  beside  a  small  pond.  In  40  min.  more  we  begin  a  steep  descent 
to  the  W.  into  the  (10  min.)  Wddi  SaidUn,  which  we  cross.  Ascending  the 
opposite  slope  (10  min.),  we  turn  to  the  W.  at  the  top  and  proceed  over 
stony  hills  for  25  minutes.  Then  another  steep  descent  on  the  slope  of  the 
Jebel  Amriyeh  brings  us  to  a  (13  min.)  valley,  which  we  follow  to  its  junction 
with  the  (12  min.)  Wddi  Sha'ib  (p.  136),  about  10  min.  above  EeSc.lt. 


2.  From  'Amman  to  fArak  el-Emlr  (3i/«  hrs.). 
The  route  ascends   on  the  left  bank  of  the  brook  to  a  spring,   where 
there  are  remains  of  several  buildings.    An  aqueduct  conveys  water  hence 
to  the  town  ('/«  hr.).    The  numerous  ruined  villages  on  the  right  and 


to  El-Kerak. 


'AIJAK  EL-EMIR. 


17.  Route. 


145 


left  show  that  this  district  must  once  have  been  richly  cultivated.  On 
the  right  lies  Katr  el-Melftif  ('castle  of  cabbages'1),  on  the  lcft'Abdtin,  then 
on  the  right  Umm  ed-Dab'a.  After  the  plateau  has  been  traversed  (1  hr.), 
Tabaka  is  seen  on  the'  left,  and  Suweifiyeh  on  the  right;  then  Ed-Demein 
(in  the  left.  The  road  now  enters  the  green  and  beautifully  wooded  Wddi 
tth-Shtta,  or  valley  of  rain.  On  the  right  is  the  ruin  of  Khirbet  Sdr;  then, 
'Ain  el-Bahal.  To  the  left,  at  the  outlet  of  the  valley  (1  hr.),  is  a  ruined 
mill;  on  the  right,  the  ruin  of  El-Aremeh.     About.  1  hr.  farther  on  is  — 


Jimmj?.. 


rArak  el-Emlr~(U63  ft.  above  the  sea).  —  Josephus  informs  us  (Ant. 
xii.j4, 11)  that  a  certain  Hyrcanus,  in  the  time  of  AntiochuslV.  (B.C.  187-175), 
built  himself  here  a  strong  castle  of  white  stone,  snrrounded  by  a  fine 
park.  The  description  of  Josephus  answers  in  the  main  to  the  ruins  still 
extant  here,  and  Tyros,  the  ancient  name  of  the  castle,  is  moreover  re- 
cognizable in  the  name  of  the  Wddi  es-Sir,  the  brook  which  tlows  at  its 
foot.  It  is,  however,  doubtful  whether  Hyrcanus  was  really  the  founder 
of  this  stronghold,  or  whether  he  did  not  rather  utilize  ancient  buildings 
and  caverns  already  existing  here.  On  the  death  of  Hyrcanus,  it  fell 
into  ruins. 


,■■■■■     ■~t*s!4ttjtw       "i^n^'^yz 


146   Route  17. 


MADEBA. 


From  Jerash 


The  principal  building  in  the  place  is  called  Kasr  el-'Abd,  or  castle  of 
the  slave,  and  stands  on  a  platform  in  a  half-isolated  situation.  In  many 
places  the  substruction  consists  of  a  wall  with  abutments ,  composed  of 
enormous  blocks.  The  artificial  road  leading  to  the  castle  is  flanked  with 
large  blocks  of  stone,  pierced  with  holes,  in  which  a  wooden  railing  was 
probably  once  inserted.  The  Kasr,  the  wall  of  which  is  preserved  on  one 
side  only,  is  also  built  of  large  blocks.  The  upper  part  is  adorned  with 
a  frieze  in  bas-relief,  bearing  large  and  rather  rude  figures  of  lions.  — 
The  open  space  around  the  castle ,  once  probably  a  moat ,  is  now  called 
Meiddn  el-'Abd. 

On  a  hill  to  the  left,  farther  to  the  N.,  are  seen  remains  of  buildings 
and  an  aqueduct,  and  a  large  platform  is  at  length  reached  whereon 
stood  a  number  of  buildings,  once  enclosed  by  walls.  On  the  hill  beyond 
this  platform  runs  a  remarkable  gallery  in  the  rock,  which  has  evidently 
been  artificially  widened.  Portals  lead  thence  into  a  number  of  rock 
caverns,  Some  of  which  seem  to  have  been  used  as  stables,  to  judge  from 
the  rings  in  the  walls.  A  few  inscriptions  in  the  ancient  Hebrew  character 
have  not  yet  been  definitely  deciphered.  Josephus  mentions  caverns  of 
this  description. 

From  'Arak  el-EmIr  to  Jericho,  5'/2  hrs.  The  road  leads  to  the 
N.W.  over  a  low  pass  O/4  hr.)  and  across  a  flat  plateau  to  O/2  hr.)  Wddi 
en-Ndr,  into  which  there  is  a  steep  descent  (5  min.).  It  then  gradually 
ascends  (the  ruin  of  Stir  remaining  to  the  S.)  to  the  top  of  the  Jendn 
es-SUr  (i/2  hr.),  descends  a  steep  rocky  slope  (10  min),  and  leads  through 
the  W&di  Jeri'a,  a  side-valley  of  the  Wddi  Ifimrin,  to  (1  hr.)  Tell  Nimrin. 
Thence  to  Jericho  (3  hrs.)  see  p.  136. 


3.    From  'Amman  to  Hesban  (5  hrs.)  and  Madeba  (l3/4  hr.). 

We  go  up  the  main  valley  as  far  as  the  ruins  of  a  bridge  O/4  hr.), 
and  then  ascend  the  hill  to  the  left.  The  plateau  is  „  crossed  in  a  S.W. 
direction  and  in  about  4  hrs.  we  reach  Khirbet  el-'Al,  situated  on  an 
isolated  hill  (the  ancient  Elealeh,  which  belonged  to  the  tribe  of  Reuben, 
Numb,  xxxii.  3  ,  and  was  afterwards  taken  by  the  Moabites,  Isaiah  xv.  4). 
Hence,  along  an  ancient  Roman  road,  we  come  in  35  min.  to  — 

Hesban  (2950  ft.),  the  ancient  Heshbon,  which  is  mentioned  in  the  Old  Testa- 
ment (Numb,  xxi.  25  et  seq.)  as  the  capital  of  Sihon,  King  of  the  Amorites. 
The  town  was  allotted  to  Reuben,  and  afterwards  came  info  the  pos- 
session of  the  Moabites  (Jerem.  xlviii.  45).  In  the  time  of  the  Maccabees, 
however,  it  had  been  recovered  by  the  Jews. 

The  ruins  lie  on  two  hills,  bounded  on  the  W.  by  the  Wddi  He&b&n  and 
on  the  E.  by  the  W&di  Ma'in.  There  are  many  cistern-openings  among  them. 
In  the  middle  of  the  N.  hill  are  the  remains  of  a  tower  and  to  the  S.E. 
of  it  are  a  large  pool,  hewn  in  the  rock,  and  also  a  square  enclosure 
built  of  large  blocks.  The  greater  part  of  the  ancient  town  was  built  on 
the  saddle  between  the  two  hills,  where  there  is  a  large  reservoir.  On 
the  S.W.  hill  are  traces  of  a  citadel,  or  possibly  a  temple,  with  shafts 
of  columns.  —  Meshita  (see  p.  153)  lies  1272  M.  to  the  E.  of  Hesban. 

From  Hesban  we  ride  in  l3/4  hr.  direct  to  the  S.  to  — 

Madeba  (5940  ft.),  the  seat  of  a  Mudir  (p.  lvii),  with  a  Turkish  tele- 
graph-office. —  MadebA  or  Medeba  was  originally  a  town  of  the  Moabites 
(Josh.  xiii.  9).  It  was  afterwards  allotted  to  Reuben.  According  to  the 
inscription  on  the  'Moabite  Stone'1  (p.  149)  the  town  belonged  to  Israel 
in  the  reign  of  Omri.  In  the  middle  of  the  9th  cent.  B.C.  it  again  came 
into  the  possession  of  the  Moabites,  and  at  a  later  period  it  is  called  a 
town  of  the  Nabatrcans  (Arabs).  Hyrcanus  captured  the  town  after  a  siege 
of  six  months.    During  the  Christian  period   it  was  the  seat  of  a  bishop. 

The  ruins  of  Madeba.  are  now  occupied  by  about  1200  Christians  from 
El-Kerak.  These  are  mostly  Greeks  (with  a  church  and  schools),  but 
there  are  also  about  300  Latins,  who  have  a  hospice,  with  boys1  and 
girls'1  schools,  on  the  highest  point  in  the  place.  The  modern  village 
lies  on  a  small  hill,   about  100  ft.  in  height,   of  which  20-25  ft.  consist 


to  El-Kerak. 


MADEBA. 


17.  Route.    147 


of  rulbish.  The  ancient  town-walls  embraced  a  considerably  larger  area. 
Close  to  the  N.  gate  we  see  a  Church,  originally  with  nave  and  aisles  and 
afterwards  enlarged  at  the  transepts ;  the  Greeks,  however,  have  used  the 
building  as  a  quarry  for  the  erection  of  their  own  church  amid  the  ruins. 
A  Mosiic  Map  of  Palestine,  discovered  in  the  pavement  in  1897,  is  of  great 
importance  as  the  oldest  existing  map  of  Palestine  (comp.  p.  29).  Comp. 
also  Palmer  &  Oulhe,  Die  Mosaikkarte  von  Madeba(10  coloured  plates),  Leipzig, 
1906.  —  Farther  to  the  S.,  on  a  slight  eminence,  lies  another  Church  (or 
perhaps  a  temple),  with  an  apse  23  ft.  in  width  ;  the  nave  had  a  mosaic  pave- 
ment. —  To  the  N.E.  of  this  point  we  find  a  Round  Temple,  31»/2  ft.  in  dia- 
meter. On  the  pavement  is  a  Greek  inscription  in  colours  and  other  mosaics 


■ 


4C 


■N.El-MasliiuUco 
.    Templf 


MEDE  BA 

Croni  in  original   smvpy     ^^;-rP" ■    t4 
by  G.Sckumacher 

i  :  13.333 

O  lOO  '-on 

lards 


Wagner 4  Debt's'  Geog!  EmaW  teijuic 

of  unusual  beauty.  —  A  Colonnaded  Street,  about  150  yds.  in  length,  led 
hence  to  the  N.  gate  in  the  E.  wall,  which  was  flanked  with  a  watch- 
tower.  The  scanty  remains  of  the  colonnade  date  from  the  early  Christian 
period.  —  To  the  S.  of  the  village  lies  the  large  Basilica,  156  ft.  in  length, 
preceded  by  a  court  46  ft.  wide.  The  nave,  which  ends  in  an  apse,  is 
33  ft.  in  width,  and  is  separated  by  columns  from  the  aisles,  each  of 
which  is  15ft.  in  width.  On  the  S.  side  is  a  wing  with  an  apse,  and 
possibly  there  was  a  corresponding  wing  on  the  N.  The  pavement  was 
originally  in  polychrome  mosaic.  —  A  private  house  a  little  to  the  S.W. 
contains  a  fine  mosaic  pavement  (animals,  trees,  a  human  head,  and-  a 
Christian  inscription  in  Greek).  —  Outside  the  walls,  at  the  S.W.  angle,  is  a 
large  pool  (El-Birleh),  103  yds.  long,  103  yds.  wide,  and  now  10-13  ft.  deep, 
to  which  a  broad  flight  of  steps  descends.  At  its  N.E.  angle  is  a  tower 
(or  bath).  The  pool  is  no  longer  filled,  as  its  water  used  to  be  a  constant 
source  of  quarrels  between  the  Beduins  and  the  villagers.  There  was  a 
second  reservoir  to  the  N.,  beside  the  W.  gate,  and  a  third  near  the  E. 
gate.  —  On  the  slope  of  the  hill  to  the  W.  of  the  village  are  numerous 
caves,  some  of  which  were  human  habitations.    On   the  top  of  the  hill 


148   Route  17. 


MA'IN. 


From  Jerash 


two  columns  with  fine  capitals  mark  the  ruins  of  a  church  (44  yds.  long, 
38  yds.  broad).  On  the  shafts  the  Beduins  have  carved  tribal  symbols 
(wasm).  The  popular  name  for  the  ruins  is  El-Mashnaka,  or  'Gallows'', 
referring  to  the  columns.  —  Comp.  Schumacher,  in  ZDPV.  xviii.  113  et  seq. 

From  Madeba  to  the  Jebel  Neba  (and  Jericho),  about  H/2  hr.  The 
road  leads  over  cultivated  ground.  From  Mt.  Nebo(2643ft.)  Moses  beheld  the 
whole  of  the  Promised  Land  before  his  death  (Deut.  xxxiv.  1-4).  The 
view  hence  is  very  extensive,  including  the  mountains  to  the  N.  of  Hebron 
as  far  as  Galilee,  the  Dead  Sea  from  Engedi  northwards,  the  whole 
valley  of  Jordan,  and  beyond  it  even  Carmel  and  Hermon.  To  the  N.  a 
view  is  obtained  of  the  Wadi  "Ayiin  Musa.  On  the  top  of  the  hill  are 
some  ruins  and  a  stone  circle  ;  on  the  N.  slope  are  dolmens. 

A  steep  descent  (1  hr.)  on  the  N.  side  of  Mt.  Nebo  leads  down  into 
the  valley  of  the  Wadi  rAyun  Musa,  in  which  are  the  copious  'Ayun  M&sd, 
or  'Springs  of  Moses'.     Here  also  is  a  large  cavern,  with  huge  stalactites. 

From  the  Springs  of  Moses  we  may  proceed  in  1  hr.  more  to  the 
summit  of  the  Jebel  Siydgha  (2291ft.),  which  faces  Mt.  Nebo  on  the  W.  and 
commands  a  still  finer  survey  of  the  plain  of  Jordan  On  the  summit  is  a 
large  ruined  church,  perhaps  originally  dedicated  to  Moses  (ZDPV.  xvi.  164). 
—  Hence  to  Wddi  Sha'ib  (p.  136)  in  2  hrs. 

From  Jericho  direct  to  Madeba,  93/4hrs.  To  the  (l3/4  hr.)  point  where 
the  road  forks  beyond  the  bridge  over  the  Jordan,  see  p.  136.  Here  we  turn 
to  the  right  (E.S.E.)  to  O/2  hr.)  Buim  el-Huleh,  with  terebinths;  55  min. 
Wddi  el-Kefrein;  1/2  hr.  Wddi  er-Rdmeh,  also  called  Wddi  Hesbdn.  We  now 
follow  the  valley  towards  the  E.,  passing  Tell  esh-S/idghtir,  on  the  left. 
In  25  min.  we  pass  a  small  lateral  valley  and  beyond  (10  min.)  a  mill 
begin  to  ascend  the  slopes  of  'ArkQb  el-Matdba',  with  its  flint  formations. 
We  pass  several  dolmens  and  two  Roman  milestones.  After  3'/4  hrs.  we 
reach  the  top  of  the  Tell  el-lfatdba',  on  which  are  stone  circles.  Hence  we 
gradually  ascend  towards  the'  S.E.  to  the  upper  course  of  the  Wddi  Abu 
Neml,  which  we  follow  to  the  (1  hr.)  fertile  tableland  of  Ard  'Abdalldh. 
The  Jebel  NebA  (see  above)  is  now  in  view;  above,  to  the  left,  is  the  Kabr 
'Abdullah,  or  Tomb  of  rAbdallah.  Passing  the  ruins  of  Kafr  Abu  Bedd  and 
Deir  Shillikh,  we  reach  (l'/j  hr.)  Mddebd. 


4.  From  Madeba  to  El  Kerak  (about  16  hrs.). 

From  Madeba  to  Diban.  —  a.  The  Direct  Route  (5>/2  hrs.)  leads  to  the  S. 
across  the  fertile  plain,  passing  (25  min.)  the  ruin  of  Et-Teim,  on  the  right, 
and  in  2'/2  hrs.  reaching  Libb.  In  H/3  hr.  more  we  cross  the  Wddi  el-Wa'leh, 
which  has  a  copious  stream  well  stocked  with  fish  and  is  covered  with 
luxuriant  oleanders.  Proceeding  across  the  S.  tableland  for  1  hr.,  we  see, 
to  the  right,  the  ruins  of  El-Kubeibeh  and  Abu  Zighan,  and,  to  the  left, 
Jfifra.  In  40  min.  more  we  reach  Diban.  the  ancient  Dibon,  in  the  tribe  of 
Gad  (Numb,  xxxii.  34),  afterwards  recaptured  by  the  Moabites  (Is.  xv.  2). 
Here  the  famous  'Moabite  Stone1  of  King  Mesha  was  found  (p.  149). 

b.  Via  Main,  Callirrhoe,  and  Mukaur  (about  13  hrs.).  From  Mddebd 
the  road  leads  to  the  S.W.  to  (II/4  hr.)  Ma'in,  the  ancient.  Beth-Baal-Meon 
(Joshua  xiii.  17),  or  house  of  Baal  Mcon.  It  belonged  to  Reuben,  and 
afterwards  to  Moab  (Ezekiel  xxv.  9).  Eusebius  informs  us  that  this  was 
the  birthplace  of  Elisha.  —  From  Marin  to  Libb,  l3/4  hr. 

From  Ma'in  we  proceed  to  (l'/2  hr.)  Bds  Zerkd  Md'in,  and  then  descend 
the  valley  to  (3  hrs.)  ffammdm  ez-Zerkd,  the  site  of  the  ancient.  Callirrhoe. 
The  bottom  and  sides  of  the  ravine  are  covered  with  a  luxuriant  growth 
of"  plants,  including  palm-trees.  The  flora  resembles  that  of  S.  Arabia 
and  Nubia.  At  the  bottom  of  the  valley  is  seen  red  sandstone,  overlaid 
with  limestone  and  basalt.  A  number  of  hot  springs  issue  from  the  side- 
valleys,  all  of  them  containing  more  or  less  lime,  and  all  rising  in  the 
line  where  the  sandstone  and  limestone  come  in  contact.  The  hottest  of 
these  springs  has  a  temperature  of  142°  Fahr.  The  Arabs  still  use  them 
for  sanatory  purposes.  In  ancient  times  also  they  were  in  great  repute, 
and  Herod  the  Great  visited  them  during  his  last  illness.  The  remains 
of  an  aqueduct  are  still  to  be  seen  here, 


to  El-Kerak. 


EL-KERAK. 


17.  Route.   149 


From  Callirrhoe  we  proceed  up  the  valley  for  2  hrs.,  then  turn  to  the 
S.  and  reach  (1  hr.  10  min.)  Mukaur,  the  ancient  Macliaerus  (2360  ft.  above 
the  level  of  the  Mediterranean  and  3675  ft.  above  that  of  the  Dead  Sea), 
which  was  fortified  by  Alexander  Jannseus.  The  castle  was  destroyed 
by  Gabinius,  but  was  afterwards  rebuilt  by  Herod  the  Great,  who  also 
founded  a  town  and  a  palace  here.  Pliny  calls  it  the  'second  fortress  of 
Juda-a  after  Jerusalem''.  It  lay  on  the  S.  boundary  of  Pera:a.  Josephus 
informs  us  that  John  the  Baptist  was  beheaded  here  (Ant.  xviii.  5,  2). 
After  the  destruction  of  Jerusalem  a  number  of  the  unhappy  survivors 
found  refuge  in  this  stronghold  for  a  time  (Bell.  Jud.  vii.  6,  i-4).  —  The 
very  extensive  citadel  covering  the  hill,  where  a  tower  and  a  large  cistern 
are"  still  preserved,  is  interesting. 

About  40  min.  to  the  N.E.  of  Mukaur  lies  'AUdriU  (Alarol/i,  in  Gad, 
Numb,  xxxii.  3,  34).  On  a  hill  to  the  N.  lie  the  "ruins  of  an  old  castle, 
near  a  large  terebinth-tree.  The  view  from  the  ruins  of  the  town  is 
preferable;  it  embraces  Bethlehem,  Jerusalem,  Mt.  Gerizim ,  and  the 
plain  to  the  K. 

From  'Attarus  we  may  follow  the  direct  Madeba-Diban  road  to  (I'/s  lir.) 
IAbb,  or  we  may  proceed  via  Kureiydt  (Kerioth,  Jeremiah  xlviii.  47),  now  a 
great  heap  of  ruins,  and  thence  along  the  Roman  road,  crossing  the  Wddi 
Heiddn,  to  Diban. 

Fkom  Diban  to  El-Kerak,  about  972-10  hrs.  The  route  crosses  the  plain 
to  the  S.,  soon  passing  within  a  short  distance  of  the  ruins  oi'Ar'dir  (Aroer; 
Josh.  xii.  2),  which  lie  to  the  left  (E.)  of  the  road.  In  1khr.  we  reach  the 
verge  of  the  precipitous  ravine  (2130  ft.  deep)  of  the  Wadi  cl-Mojib  (Arnon, 
josh.  xii.  1 ;  see  p.  136)  and  descend  to  the  (IV2  hr.)  river-bed.  The  remains 
of  a  bridge  are  seen.  The  road  ascends  the  S.  slope  in  about  IV2  hr.  to  two 
large  and  conspicuous  terebinth-trees  (to  theW.  of  Mahddet  el-Sajj),  which 
serve  excellently  as  a  landmark ;  adjacent  is  a  block-house,'  with  a  few 
soldiers.  On  the  S.  side  of  the  Mojib  basalt  is  chiefly  to  be  found,  while 
on  the  N.  side  limestone  is  the  prevailing  formation.  We  proceed  across 
the  tableland,  first  to  the  S.W.,  then  to  the  S.,  and  in  40  min.  reach  the 
ruins  of  Erihd,  where  there  are  numerous  heaps  of  stones.  In  40  min. 
more  (traces  of  an  ancient  Roman  road)  we  arrive  at  the  ruins  of  Shihdn, 
at  the  foot  of  the  Tell  Shihdn,  a  hill  of  moderate  height  commanding  a  fine 
view,  which  extends  to  Bethlehem  and  the  Mt.  of  Olives.  From  Shihan 
the  road  leads  in  l'/s  hr.  to  the  ruins  of  Beit  el-Karm  (Kasr  Rabba).  with 
numerous  columns  and  blocks  of  a  ruined  temple.  On'  the  left  (E.)  rise 
the  hills  of  Jebel  et-TarfHyeh.  On  the  left  (10  min.)  are  the  ruins  of  the 
old  tower  of  Afisdeti,  adjoining  which  are  the  ruins  of  Hemeimdt.  After 
3/4  hr.  we  reach  Rabba,  the  ancient  Rabbath  Moab.  which  was  afterwards 
confounded  with  Ar  Moab ,  and  thence  called  Areopolis.  The  ruins  are 
about  I1/2  M.  in  circuit.  A  few  only  of  the  ruins,  such  as  the  remains  of 
a  temple  (W.  side)  and  some  cisterns,  are  well-preserved.  Two  Corinthian 
columns  of  different  sizes  stand  together  not  far  from  the  temple.  —  From 
Rabba  the  road  leads  towards  the  S.  across  a  plain  and  past  the  ruined 
villages  of  Muliharshit,  Duweineh,  and  Es-Suweiniyeh  to  (2'/2  hrs.)  the  Wddi 
'Ain  es-Silt.     Thence  an  ascent  of  20  min.  brings  us  to  El-Kerak. 

El-Kerak  (3365  ft.;  Turkish  post  and  telegraph  office;  accommodation 
in  the  'Medafeh'  or  public  inn,  or  in  private  houses)  is  the  ancient  Kir 
of  Moab,  Kir  Haraseth,  Kir  Haresh.  or  Kir  JJeres  (Isaiah  xv.  1,  xvi.  7,  11 ; 
2  Kings  iii.  25;  Jeremiah  xlviii.  31),  one  of  the  numerous  towns  of 
the  Moabitei.  This  warlike  people  were  closely  related  to  the  Israelites 
(p.  lxxv) ,  whom  they  compelled  for  some  time  to  pay  them  tribute 
(Judges  iii.  12-14).  Saul  and  David  fought  against  Moab;  the  great- 
grandmother  of  David  was  a  Moabitess  (comp.  the  Book  of  Ruth).  After 
Ahab^s  death  the  Moabites  refused  to  pay  tribute.  Their  king  at  that 
period  was  Mcsha,  a  monument  to  whose  memory,  probably  dating  from 
B.C.  897  or  896  and  now  at  the  Louvre,  was  found  in  1868  at  Diban 
(p.  148).  Jehoram,  allied  with  Jehoshaphat,  King  of  Judah,  invaded  Moab 
from  the  S.,  through  Edom,  but  they  were  successfully  resisted  by  the 
fortress  of  Kir  Haruseth  (2  Kings  iii).    The  Moabites  as  a  separate  nation 


150  Route  17. 


EL-KERAK. 


disappeared  in  the  2nd  cent.  B.C.  In  the  Christian  period  El-Kerak  was 
the  seat  of  an  archbishop,  but  he  derived  his  title,  as  at  the  present  day, 
from  Petra  Deserti.  In  the  time  of  the  Crusaders  Kerak  was  a  frequent 
object  of  contention,  as  it  commanded  the  caravan-route  from  Egypt  and 
Arabia  to  Syria.  In  1183  and  the  following  years  Saladin  made  a  series 
of  furious  attacks  upon  Kerak,  which  was  held  by  Rainald  de  Chatillon, 
and  in  1188  he  gained  possession  both  of  Kerak  and  Shobek.  The  Eyyubides 
extended  the  fortifications  of  Kerak,  and  frequently  resided  there.  Later 
it  became  an  apple  of  discord  between  the  rulers  of  Egypt  and  Syria. 

F.l-Kerak  is  the  capital  of  a  liwa  of  the  vilayet  of  Syria(p.lvii),  and  con- 
tains 20-22,000  inhab.,  including  a  garrison  of  800  infantry  and  350  cavalry. 
With  the  exception  of  the  Serai,  or  government  building,  and  the  school, 
it  consists  almost  entirely  of  wretched  huts.  The  Christian  inhab.  in- 
clude 2500  Greeks  (with  two  old  churches)  ,  200  Latins  (with  a  school), 
and  25  Protestants  (station  of  the  English  Church  Missionary  Society, 
with  doctor  and  dispensary).  Each  of  these  sects,  as  are  also  the  Muslims, 
is  under  a  sheikh  of  its  own.  The  environs  are  fertile,  and  the  inhabitants 
are  chiefly  employed  in  agriculture  and  cattle  -raising.  The  trade  of 
El-Kerak  is  wholly  in  the  hands  of  merchants  from  Hebron.  As  a  rule,  the 
inhabitants  are  in  bad  repute  on  account  of  their  cupidity. 

The  huge  Castle  on  the  S.  side  of  the  town  now  serves  as  barrack*. 
It  is  separated  from  the  adjoining  hill  on  the  S.  by  a  large  artificial  moat, 
and  is  provided  with  a  reservoir.  A  moat  also  skirts  the  N.  side  of  the 
fortress,  and  on  the  E.  side  the  wall  has  a  sloped  or  battered  base.  The 
walls  are  very  thick  and  well  preserved.  The  extensive  galleries,  cor- 
ridors ,  and  halls  constitute  it  an  admirable  example  of  a  Crusader's 
castle.  The  upper  stories  are  in  ruins,  but  the  approaches  to  them  are 
still  in  good  preservation.  A  staircase  descends  into  a  subterranean  chapel, 
where  traces  of  frescoes  are  still  visible.  In  the  interior  of  the  fortress 
are  numerous  cisterns.  Although  the  springs  are  situated  immediately 
outside  the  town,  large  cisterns  have  been  constructed  within  the  town 
(particularly  by  the  tower  of  Beibars).  —  The  view  from  the  top  of  the 
castle  embraces  the  Dead  Sea  and  the  surrounding  mountains.  In  the 
distance  the  Mt.  of  Olives,  and  even  the  Russian  buildings  beyond  it,  are 
visible.  A  survey  of  the  valley  of  Jordan  as  far  as  the  heights  of  Jericho 
is  also  obtained. 

The  town  is  surrounded  by  a  wall  with  five  towers.  The  most 
northern  tower  is  the  best  preserved,  and  bears  an  inscription  and  figures 
of  lions  of  the  kind  common  in  Arabian  monuments  of  the  Crusaders' 
period.  The  lower  parts  of  the  wall,  to  judge  from  the  stones  composing  it, 
are  of  earlier  date  than  the  upper.  The  town  originally  had  two  entrances 
only,  both  consisting  of  tunnels  in  the  rock ,  but  it  is  now  accessible  on 
the  N.W.  side  also  through  breaches  in  the  wall.  The  tunnel  on  the  N.W. 
aide  has  .an  entrance-arch  dating  from  the  Roman  period  (notwithstanding 
its  Arabic  inscription).  This  tunnel,  about  80  paces  long,  leads  to  the 
tower  of  Beibars  (N.W.) ,  whose  name  is  recorded  by  an  inscription 
adjoining  two  lions.  The  walls  are  very  massive  and  are  provided  with 
loopholes. 

The  present  Mosque  of  El-Kerak  was  originally  a  Christian  church,  of 
which  the  pillars  and  arches  are  still  extant.  A  Christian  symbol,  in  the 
form  of  a  sculptured  chalice,  has  escaped  destruction  by  the  Muslims.  — 
The  Christian  Church,  dedicated  to  St.  George  (El-Khidr),  contains  pictures 
in  the  Byzantine  style.  In  one  of  the  houses  are  remains  of  a  beautiful 
Roman  bath,  including  a  fine  marble  pavement. 

From  El-Kerak  to  Petra,  see  p.  175. 


1 


(?  1 


0/)&A~-, 


151 


18.  From  Damascus  to  El-Ma°an  (Hejaz  Railway). 

The  construction  of  the  railway  from  Damascus  to  Mecca,  connecting 
Syria  with  the  Hejaz  [i.e.  Arahia  Petrsea),  was  undertaken  in  1901  by  order 
of  Sultan  fAbdu'l  Hamid  II.,  chiefly  to  facilitate  the  annual  pilgrimages 
to  Mecca  (p.  lxxi).  The  undertaking,  which  may  therefore  be  regarded  as 
a  pious  one,  has  been  assisted  by  numerous  voluntary  contributions,  not 
only  from  Turkey,  but  from  every  point  of  the  territory  of  Islam.  Special 
taxes  have  also  been  levied  in  Turkey,  and  the  construction  of  the  railway 
is  now  financially  assured.  The  work  is  carried  on  by  Turkish  soldiers 
directed  by  German  engineers.  The  total  length  of  the  line  to  Mecca  will 
be  about  1118  M.  In  1906  it  was  in  operation  as  far  as  El-Maran  (285  M.); 
a  branch-line  from  Der'at  to  Haifa,  connects  the  railway  with  the  coast. 

At  present  three  trains  run  weekly  in  each  direction,  leaving  Damascus 
on  Mon.,  Wed.,  and  Sat.  at  7.30  a.m.,  and  returning  from  El-Mafan  on 
the  same  days  at  ca.  4.30  a.m.  Fare  from  Damascus  to  (6  hrs.)  Defdl 
24  pi.  30,  to  (12  hrs.)  'Amman  49  pi.  30,  to  (26  hrs.)  El-Ma'dn  108  pi.  30  pa. 
(Government  Rate  of  Exchange ;  comp.  the  Table  facing  the  title-page). 
The  trains  at  present  have  only  one  class,  equivalent  to  our  third  class, 
"ailway  restaurants  are  to  be  established  at  Der\at  and  El-Maran;  travellers 
shouldin  the  interim  take  provisions  for  the  journey  with  them.  At 
'Amman  and  El-Ma'an  horses  or  donkeys  can  be  procured;  otherwise,  for 
trips  to  right  and  left  of  the  line  of  railway,  the  traveller  should  send  on 
horses  in  advance. 

The  railway-station  of  Damascus  lies  to  the  S.  of  the  Bauwabet  Allah, 
V-2  hr.'s  drive  from  the  hotels  (p.  294). 

Damascus,  see  p.  294.  The  line  first  traverses  the  gardens  of 
the  Ohuta,  running  parallel  to  the  French  Hauran  Railway  (p.  156) 
and  at  some  little  distance  from  it.  On  emerging  from  the  Ghiita 
we  cross  the  low  chain  of  the  Jebel  el-Aswad  (p.  154),  separating 
the  plain  of  Damascus  from  the  Hauran,  and  then  traverse  the  broad 
depression  of  the  Wddi  el-Ajam,  through  which  flows  the  Nahr  el- 
A'waj.  The  upper  part  of  this  stream  is  called  the  Nahr  es-S&birarii, 
and  is  the  ancient  Pharpar  (2  Kings  v.  12),  although  the  Nahr  Barbar 
of  the  present  day  no  longer  flows  into  it.  The  snow-crowned  sum- 
mits of  Mount  Hermon  remain  constantly  in  view. 

13  M.  El-Kisweh  (also  a  station  of  the  Hauran  railway,  p.  166), 
a  considerable  village  on  the  Nahr  el-Arwaj.  To  the  left  appears 
the  barren  range  of  the  Jebel  el-Mdni',  on  the  highest  summit  of 
which  (3640  ft.)  lie  the  ruins  of  the  ancient  castle  Kal'at  en-Nuhas. 

The  line  continues  to  the  S.E.  along  the  base  of  the  mountain  to 
(19  M.)  Deir  rAli. 

31  M.  El-Mismiyeh,  the  ancient  Phaene,  at  one  time  a  populous 
town  and  the  seat  of  a  bishopric.  Several  of  the  old  houses  are  still 
well  preserved,  but  the  fine  temple  has  unfortunately  been  entirely 
demolished,  and  its  stones  used  for  building-material.  The  town 
stands  on  the  border  of  the  Lejdh  (Lohf  tl-Lejah),  which  the  line 
now  skirts  in  a  S.W.  direction. 

El-Lejah  is  the  ancient  district  of  Trachon,  so  called  from  its 
wild  and  broken  aspect.  The  surface  of  the  stony  soil  (lava)  is 
generally  level  and  may  be  compared  to  a  troubled  sea  that  has 
suddenly  solidified.  In  former  times  tho  country  was  enlivened  here 
and  there  with  vineyards  and  plantations;  a  Roman  road  traversed 


152 


Roule  18. 


DERfAT. 


From  Damascus 


it  from  El-Mismiyeh  (p.  151)  to  Es-Suweida  (p.  104).  At  the 
present  day,  however,  El-Lejah  has  a  somewhat  desolate  appearance. 
The  inhabitants  of  the  Hauran  have  nevertheless  always  had  a  predi- 
lection for  this  almost  inaccessible  region  on  account  of  the  many 
hiding-places  it  offers.  Its  name  signifies  'hiding-place',  and  the  Druses 
also  call  it  Kal'at  Allah  ('fortress  of  God').  The  border  of  the  Lejah, 
which  rises  some  33  ft.  above  the  plain  of  the  Hauran,  is  protected  in 
many  places  by  rough  stone  walls.  For  this  reason  it  was  not  without 
great  difficulty  that  Ibrahim  Pasha  (p.  lxxxv)  was  able  to  suppress 
the  revolt  here  in  1838,  and  it  is  only  quite  lately  that  the  Turkish 
government  has  acquired  a  firm  hold  on  the  country.  The  formation 
of  the  Lejah  is  due  to  the  descent  from  the  mountains  of  streams  of 
lava,  chiefly  from  the  Tell  Sluhdn  and  the  Qhardrat  el-  KiblTyeh  (p.  168). 

39  M.  Jebdb;  43  M.  Khabeb.   The  line  makes  a  bend  to  the  S.E. 

48V2  M.  Mahajjeh;  53  M.  Shakra. 

56V2  M.  Ezra'  (1990  ft.),  the  ancient  Zoroa. 

Fkom  Ezra'  to  Ei.-Kanawat,  ca.  8  hrs.'  riding.  We  follow  the  S.  border 
of  the  Lejah  in  an  E.  direction,  passing  Bust'  el-Hariri  (probably  the 
ancient  Bosor,  1  Mace.  v.  26)  and  traversing  the  Wadi  el-Kanatcdt-  —  El- 
Kanawat,  see  p.  165. 

After  leaving  Ezrar  the  train  turns  southwards  through  the  fruit- 
ful plain  of  En-Nukra,  the  great  plain  of  the  Hauran  and  the  granary 
of  Syria.  It  derives  its  name,  which  means  'depression',  from  its 
position  among  peaks  and  ranges  of  hills,  which  give  it  the  appearance 
of  a  round  valley. 

66  M.  Khirbet  el-Ohazdleh. 

761/2 M.  Der'&t  (1800  ft. ;  Turkish  telegraph),  the  seat  of  a  Kaini- 
inakam,  with  4000  inhab.,  is  the  ancient  Edre'i  (Numb.  xxi.  33), 
and  during  the  Christian  period  was  the  seat  of  a  bishop.  —  In  the 
bottom  of  the  Wddi  ez-Zeidi  lies  a  large  reservoir,  64'^  yds.  long, 
59  yds.  wide,  and  about  6  ft.  deep.  On  theW.  side  of  the  reservoir 
lies  the  Hammdm  es-Sikndni (an  ancient  Roman  bath  in  ruins);  near 
it,  the  inaccessible  mausoleum  oiSikndni.  At  the  S.E.  end  of  the  town 
stands  a  Ruwdk,  or  hall  for  prayer,  65V2  yds.  long  and  31V2  Y^s' 
wide,  with  a  double  colonnade  running  round  it.  This  was  erected 
in  1253  and  had  eighty-five  columns  of  different  kinds  and  three 
gates.  In  the  court  lies  a  sarcophagus  with  two  lions'  heads.  At  the 
N.W.  corner  rises  a  lofty  tower  (El-Meidani ;  view).  The  apse  of  a 
former  church  is  still  visible  to  the  S.  —  The  extensive  and  laby- 
rinthine subterranean  dwellings  here,  into  which  it  is  possible  to 
crawl,  are  very  interesting.    The  entrance  is  in  the  Wadi  ez-Zeidi. 

Branch-line  from  Der'at  to  Haifa,  see  p.  235.  —  A  short,  line  also  con- 
nects Der'at  with  (8V2  M.)  El-Muzeirib,  the  terminus  of  the  Hauran  rail- 
way (p.  157). 

From  Derrat  the  train  runs  towards  the  S.E.,  crossing  the  Wadi 
ez-Zeidi  and  skirting  the  E.  side  of  the  Jebel  ez-Zumleh.  The  last 
is  a  hilly  district,  nowhere  rising  to  a  greater  height  than  330  ft. 
above  the  plain  (2300  ft.  above  sea-level),  which  stretches  from  N. 


to  El-Ma'dn. 


EL-MArAN. 


18.  Route.    153 


to  S.  for  a  distance  of  about  37  M.  It  encloses  on  the  W.  the  desert 
of  El-Hamad,  a  tract  devoid  of  spring-water,  covered  only  with  a 
meagre  desert-grass,  and  uninhabited.  Geologically  these  hills, 
which  contain  vast  deposits  of  flint  in  chalk-marl,  represent  the 
transition  from  the  dolerites  and  lavas  of  the  Hauran  to  the  cal- 
careous formations  of  the  Jebel  'Ajlun. 

84Va  M.  Nafib. 

IOOV2  M.  Kal'at  el-Mefrak,  where  the  line  reaches  the  Pilgrim 
Route  (  Derb  ei-Hajj,  p.  157)! 

105  M.  KaVat  es-Samrd. 

126  M.  Kal'at  ez-Ztrkd,  close  to  the  spring  of  that  name.  The 
line  here  reaches  the  upper  end  of  the  Wddi  ez-Ztrkd  (Jabbok, 
p.  138),  which  it  crosses  immediately  afterwards  on  a  viaduct.  We 
now  ascend  the  valley,  the  upper  part  of  which  is  called  the  Wddi 
'Amman,  and  reach  — 

ISSi/a  M-  'Amman.  The  place  itself  and  the  ruins  lie  about  3  M. 
to  the  S.W.  of  the  station  (comp.  p.  142).  Hence  the  line  winds  up 
from  the  valley  to  the  plateau. 

144  M.  El-Kasr;  1541/2  M.  Lulbdn.  —  About  7  M.  to  the  N.E. 
of  (lQll/zftl.)  Jlzeh  (Kal'at  Zlzd)  are  the  ruins  of  MeshUd  ( Meshelta), 
with  a  fine  Ghassanide  palace  of  the  7th  cent.,  the  facade  of  which 
was  taken  to  Berlin  in  1904  as  a  present  from  the  Sultan  to  Emperor 
William  II.  ■ —  The  line  now  makes  a  bend  to  the  E.,  in  order  to 
pass  round  the  heads  of  two  deep  valleys,  the  Wddi  el-Wa'leh  and 
the  Wddi  el-M6jib  (Arnon,  p.  149). 

173  M.  Kal'at  ed-Dab'a.  Here  the  line  again  joins  the  Pilgrim 
Route,  which  it  henceforth  follows.  The  train  slowly  ascends  the 
long  desert. 

183  M.  Khan  ez-ZeMb  (2435  ft.);  202i/2  M.  Kalrdneh;  235  M. 
Kal'at  el-Ham  (2530  ft.),  in  the  upper  Wddi  el-Hasd  (p.  175); 
2461/2  M.  'Jurf  ed-Dardivtsh  (2990  ft.);  262i/o  M.  Kal'at  'Aneizeh 
(3620  ft.).    We  now  reach  — 

285  M.  El-Mar&n  (3515  ft.),  the  present  terminus  of  the  line. 
The  town  lies  l1^  M.  to  the  W.  of  the  station. 

El-Ma'dn  (Turkish  telegraph),  the  seat  of  a  Kaimmakam,  is  the 
ancient  Ma'dn;  its  inhabitants,  the  Mehunims,  are  perhaps  identical 
with  the  Jewish- Arabian  Minaeans,  and  are  mentioned  in  the  Old 
Testament  (2  Chron.  xxvi.  7;  Neh.  tii.  52).  The  town,  which  is  not 
without  importance,  consists  of  two  quarters  1/2  M.  apart:  Ma'dn 
esh-Shdmiyeh  ('Northern  Maran')  and  Ma'dn  el-Kebir  ('Great  Ma'an'), 
the  latter  also  called  el- Mudiriy eh  ('seat  of  government').  The  houses 
are  constructed  of  mud  bricks,  as  is  also  the  enclosing  wall.  There 
is  abundance  of  water,  and  palm,  fig,  pomegranate,  apricot,  peach, 
and  poplar  trees  flourish  in  the  numerous  gardens.  The  town  is 
surrounded  by  a  dreary  desert. 

From   Kl-M;i'a.n  to  Petra,  see  p.  174. 


mmmmm 


^^H 


154 


19.    The  Hauran.  ($  <*JL  \>  l'fo*»\t*v 


A  visit  to  those  parts  of  the  Hauran  lying  away  from  the  railway  is 
generally  undertaken  for  scientific  purposes,  rarely  for  mere  pleasure. 
There  are  still  numerous  inscriptions  to  be  found  here:  Greek,  Latin, 
Nabatsean ,  Arabic ,  and  some  in  the  so-called  .Sabieau  (South  Arabian) 
characters.  On  the  plain  of  the  Hauran ,  the  company  of  one  soldier 
will  suffice  (p.  xxvi),  but  in  the  mountains  it  is  necessary  to  have  an 
escort  of  Druses.  Information  may  be  obtained  at  the  consulates  in  Jeru- 
salem or  Damascus. 

Literature.  WetzileWs  'Reisebericht  iiber  den  Hauran  und  die  Tra- 
chonen'  (Berlin,  1860).  De  VogWt  L'Architecture  civile  et  religieuse'  (comp. 
p.  c)  contains  numerous  drawings  of  buildings  in  the  Hauran.  Schumacher's 
'Across  the  Jordan1  (London,  1886);  'The  Jolan'  (ZDPV.  ix.);  'Northern 
'Ajlun'  (London,  1890) ;  'Das  siidliche  Basan'  (ZDPV.  xx.).  Von  Oppenheiins 
'Vom  Mittelmeer  zum  persischen  Golf1  (Berlin,  1899).  Records  of  the 
Princeton  Archaeological  Expedition  to  Syria  (New  York,  1904).  Ch.  M. 
Doughty,  'Travels  in  Arabia  Deserta',  Vol.  I.  (Cambridge,  1888).  —  Map 
of  the  Jebel  Hauran,  drawn  by  Dr.  11.  Fischer  (ZDPV.  xii.),  1889. 

The  Hauran  corresponds  to  the  district  which  in  ancient  days  was 
called  Bathan  by  the  Hebrews.  The  Bible  mentions  an  Og ,  King  of 
Bashan,  whom  the  Israelites  defeated  at  Edrei  (Numbers  xxi.  33-35).  The 
pastures  and  flocks  of  Bashan  were  celebrated  (Ezek.  xxxix.  18).  The  oak 
plantations  of  Bashan  also  seem  to  have  made  a  great  impression  on  the 
Israelites  (Ezek.  xxvii.  6;  Isaiah  ii.  13).  At  a  later  period  (Ezek.  xlvii.  16-18) 
the  name  of  Hauran,  which  originally  belonged  to  the  mountains  only  (the 
Asalmanos  of  the  ancients),  was  extended  to  Bashan  also,  as  at  the  present 
day.  In  the  Roman  period  the  country  was  divided  into  five  provinces: 
Ituraea,  Qaulanitis,  to  the  E.  of  these  Iiatanaea  (a  name  also  applied  to 
the  whole,  like  Bashan),  to  the  N.E.  Trachonilis  and  Auranitis,  including 
the  mountains  of  the  Hauran  in  the  narrower  sense,  and  the  present  plain 
of  En-Nukra,  or  'the  hollow''  (p.  152).  The  Hauran  in  the  wider  sense  is  now 
bounded  on  the  N.W.  by  the  district  of  Jeidiir,  on  the  W.  by  the  Nahr  el- 
rAllan  towards  the  Jolan  (N.) ,  and  by  the  Wadi  esh-Shellaleh  towards 
rAjlun  (S.),  on  the  S.W.  and  S.  by  the  LSelkS,  and  the  steppe  of  El-Hamad 
(i.e.  'stony  plateau'),  and  on  the  N.  by  the  low  chain  of  the  Jebel  el-Aswadv 
beyond  which  lies  the  plain  of  Damascus.  Towards  the  N.E. ,  and  beyond 
the  'Meadow  Lakes'  (p.  317),  extends  a  remarkable  hill-district,  consisting 
of  a  series  of  extinct  craters,  in  the  centre  of  which  is  the  Safd'Xp.  317), 
with  the  ruin  of  the  'white  castle'.  To  the  8.  and  E.  of  this  lies  the  Hurra, 
an  undulating  plain  of  the  dreariest  description,  entirely  covered  with 
sharp-edged  fragments  of  lava.  Jeremiah  (xvii.  6)  evidently  had  the  Harra 
in  mind  when  he  spoke  of  the  punishment  of  exile  to  'the  parched  places 
in  the  wilderness1.  —  The  prevailing  formation  of  the  Hauran  is  a  granulous 
dolerite  and  a  brownish  red  or  blackish  green  slag,  blistered  and  porous. 
The  dolerite  consists  of  thin  slabs  of  crystal  of  greyish  white  labradorite, 
with  small  grains  of  olivine  and  augite.  The  soil  in  the  district  of  the 
Hauran  is  extremely  fertile,  and  consists  of  soft,  decomposed  lava. 

The  larger  villages  only  are  surrounded  with  walls ,  and  these  are 
provided  with  numerous  towers ,  the  courses  of  stone  in  which  are 
generally  connected  by  means  of  the  peculiarly  shaped  tenons  known  as 
'swallow-tails'-.  The  numerous  Troglodyte  dwellings  are  of  great  interest 
and  certainly  belong  to  hoar  antiquity.  The  other  houses  are  built  of 
handsome,  well-hewn  blocks  of  stone  (dolerite),  which  are  admirably  j  ointed 
without  cement.  The  doers  consist  of  large  slabs  of  dolerite,  and  the 
windows  consist  of  similar  slabs  with  perforations.  The  gates  of  the 
larger  buildings  and  streets  are  adorned  with  sculptured  vine-leaves  and 
inscriptions.  Only  the  best-preserved  of  the  houses  are  now  occupied. 
The  staircases  consist  of  slabs  of  stone  let  into  the  outer  walls  of  the 
court.  The  windows  and  doors  of  the  upper  floor  were  open.  The  ceilings 
of  the  rooms   rest   on  round   arches,   and    those   of  the  better  sort  are 


History. 


HAUKAN. 


19.  Route.    155 


enriched  with  decorations.  The  cupboards,  the  seats,  and  even  the  square 
candlesticks  are  of  stone.  The  large  cisterns  hewn  in  the  rock,  the  vaulted 
reservoirs,  and  the  artificial  pools  which  are  filled  by  the  spring  rains  and 
afford  drinking-water  throughout  the  whole  year,  also  date  from  a  very 
early  period. 

The  last  period  of  culture  in  the  Hauran  was  during  the  early 
Christian  centuries,  after  the  adoption  of  Christianity  by  the  Arab  tribes 
of  the  district  (Jefnides  or  G/iassdnides).  As  far  back  as  the  year  180  we 
hear  of  a  King  'Amr  I.  who  erected  numerous  monasteries.  The  influence 
of  Grseco-Koman  culture  is  proved  by  many  temples  and  mausolea  in  the 
style  of  the  grave-towei's  of  Palmyra.  The  numerous  Greek  inscriptions 
are  not  always  spelled  correctly,  but  are  interesting  from  the  fact  that 
they  are  contemporaneous  with  the  buildings  themselves.  The  capital  of 
the  Hauran  was  Bosra  (p.  161).  The  rise  of  Islam  made  an  end  of  the 
empire  of  the  Ghassanid.es.  According  to  Arabic  inscriptions,  the  land  seems 
to  have  regained  a  share  of  its  former  prosperity  in  the  13th  century. 
Nothing  more  is  heard  of  it  until  1838,  when  Ibrahim  Pasha  endeavoured  to 
penetrate  into  the  Lejah.  He  did  not,  however,  succeed  in  conquering  this 
bleak  plateau  of  lava,  nor  did  Mohammed  Kibrisly  Pasha  fare  better  in  1850. 

Both  the  N.W  district  of  the  Hauran  and  the  'Jebel'  itself  are  now 
chiefly  occupied  by  Beduins,  but,  the  slopes  of  the  hills  and  the  plain 
are  inhabited  by  peasants  who  form  the  permanent  part  of  the  popu- 
lation. Since  1861  so  many  of  the  Druses  have  migrated  to  the  Hauran 
from  Lebanon,  that  the  district  is  sometimes  called  that  of  the  Druse 
Mountains.  A  number  of  Christians,  chiefly  of  the  Greek  Orthodox  church, 
are  also  settled  here.  The  climate  of  the  tableland  of  the  Hauran,  lying 
upwards  of  2000  ft.  above  the  sea-level,  is  very  healthy,  and  in  the 
afternoon  the  heat  is  tempered  by  a  refreshing  W.  wind.  The  semi-trans- 
parent 'hard  wheat''  of  the  Hauran  is  highly  prized  and  largely  exported. 
Wheat  and  barley  in  this  favoured  region  are  said  to  yield  abundant  har- 
vests, but  the  crops  sometimes  fail  from  want  of  rain  or  from  the  plague 
of  locusts.  The  fields  are  not  manured,  but  a  three  or  four  years1  rotation 
of  crops  is  observed.  The  dung  of  the  cattle  is  used  for  fuel,  as  the  'oaks  of 
Bashan'',  which  still  grow  on  the  heights,  are  gradually  being  exterminated. 
No  trees  grow  in  the  plain,  though  it  bears  traces  of  once  having  been 
wooded.  Fruit-trees  are  planted  near  the  villages  only.  Thanks  to  the 
energetic  action  of  the  government,  the  villagers  are  no  longer  seriously 
oppressed  by  the  Beduins.  The  native  of  the  Hauran  is  of  so  peculiar  a 
type  that  it  may  be  regarded  as  uniform,  in  spite  of  the  fact  that  religious 
differences  exist  between  the  various  tribes.  The  peasant  of  the  Hauran  is 
larger  and  stronger  than  the  Beduin,  but  preserves  not  only  his  language 
but  also  many  of  his  virtues.  Every  village  possesses  its  lmenz&V,  or  public 
inn,  where  every  traveller  is  entertained  gratuitously,  and  the  Hauranians 
deem  it  honourable  to  impoverish  themselves  by  contributing  to  the  sup- 
port of  this  establishment.  As  soon  as  a  stranger  arrives  he  is  conducted 
to  the  inn.  A  servant  or  slave  roasts  coffee  for  him,  and  then  pounds 
it  in  a  wooden  mortar,  accompanying  his  task  with  a  peculiar  melody. 
Meanwhile  the  whole  village  assembles ,  and  after  the  guest  has  been 
served,  each  person  present  partakes  of  the  coffee.  Now,  however,  that 
travellers  have  become  more  numerous,  the  villagers  generally  expect  a 
trilling  bakhshish  from  Europeans.  A  sum  of  !/2-l  mej.,  according  to  the 
refreshments  obtained,  may  therefore  be  given.  The  food  consists  of  fresh 
bread,  eggs,  sour  milk,  grape-syrup  ('dibs'),  and  in  the  evening  of  'burffhuV, 
a  dish  of  wheat,  boiled  with  a  little  leaven  and  dried  in  the  sun,  with 
mutton,  or  rice  with  meat. 

1.  From  Damascus  to  Der'at  (Hejaz  Railway). 
For  this  route  (761/2  M-)»  see  pp.  151,  152. 


Baedeker's  Palestine  and  3yria.    4th  Edit. 


10 


£"«? 


156 


Route  19. 


ES-RANAMEIN. 


Hauran. 


2.  From  Damascus  to  El-Muzeirib. 


a.  By  the  Hauran  Railway. 

63  M.  Naekow  Gauge  Railway  of  the  'Socidtc  du  Chemin  tie  Fer  Damas- 
Hama  et  Prolongenients',  tlie  first  railway  completed  in  Syria  (opened  in 
1894;  3-4  trains  weekly).  To  this  company  belong  also  the  lines  Beirut- 
Damascus  (p.  291)  and  Reyak  -  Horns  -  HamS.  The  train  leaves  Damascus 
at  6.30  a.m.,  reaching  Es-Sananiein  in  2l/«  lirs.  (fares  38  pi.  10,  25  pi.  20), 
Sheikh  Miskinin  3V«  hrs.  (60  pi.,  40  pi.),  and  El-Muzeirib  in  41/2  hrs.  (75 pi.  30, 
50  pi.  20  pa.).  The  return-train  leaves  El-Muzeirib  at  midday,  reaching 
Damascus  at  5  p.m.  —  Bate  of  Excliange  for  the  railway-fares,  see  p.  275. 

Those  who  intend  to  make  excursions  aside  from  the  railway  must 
take  horses,  tents,  etc.,  from  Damascus. 

The  Railway  Station  at  Damascus  is  situated  in  the  S.  part  of  the  suburb 
of  Meiddn  (PI.  B,  8;  p.  294). 

Damascus,  see  p.  294.  The  line  runs  parallel  to  the  Ileiaz 
Railway  (R.  18)  at  a  greater  or  less  distance  to  theW.  of  it.  —  33/4M. 
Ddreiya,  a  place  of  some  importance,  as  it  was  in  the  middle  ages 
also.    The  Franks  extended  their  ravages  as  far  as  this  point. 

6  M.  Sahndyd,  heyond  which  begins  a  continuous  view  of  tho 
snow-covered  summit  of  Hermon.  The  line  now  crosses  the  low 
chain  of  the  Jebel  el-Aswad  (p.  154)  and  the  broad  depression  of  the 
Wddi  el-'Ajam,  follows  more  or  less  closely  the  Derb  el-Hajj  or 
'Pilgrim  Route',  and  crosses  the  Nuhr  el-A'waj  (p.  151). 

12]/2  M.  El-Kisweh  (Kessoue),  also  a  station  on  the  Hejaz  Rail- 
way (p.  151).  —  13  M.  Khdn  Dennun.  We  here  enter  the  lava 
region.  —  Passing  El-Khiydra,  in  a  fertile  district,  we  reach  — 

20'/2  M.  Zcrdklyeh.  To  the  right  rises  the  hill  of  Sublet  Fir'aun, 
with  the  ruins  of  Kasr  Fir'aun;  to  the  left  is  the  Jebel  el-Abdyeh, 
with  the  Mezdr  Elyesha'  (shrine  of  Elisha). 

24  M.  Ghabdyhib,  near  which  is  a  large  reservoir.  As  we  proceed 
we  see.  Didi,  to  the  left,  with  the  long  Tell  el-Hamtr  behind  it. 

3IV2M.  Es-Sanamein,  the  ancient  Acre,  is  an  excellent  specimen 
of  a  Hauran  village  (p.  154)  and  contains  extensive  ancient  ruins. 
In  the  centre  of  the  village  rises  a  temple  built  of  yellowish  lime- 
stone, with  Corinthian  columns  and  a  niche  in  the  form  of  a  shell. 
The  doors  and  windows  are  well  preserved,  and  the  decorations  are 
very  richly  executed.  According  to  inscriptions,  it  was  dedicated  to 
Fortuna.  To  the  S.  of  the  temple  is  a  building  with  columns;  on 
the  E.  side  a  vaulted  gateway  leads  to  a  square  chamber  and  to 
various  rooms  with  a  portico,  Corinthian  columns,  and  several  arches. 
Outside  (N.)  of  the  village  are  two  lofty  grave-towers  in  different 
stories,  built  of  yellow  and  black  stones  without  mortar,  and  also 
richly  decorated.    There  is  another  tower  to  the  S.  of  the  village. 

At  Es-Saiittinein  begins  En-Nakra  (\>.  154).  —  30  M.  El- 
Kuneiyeh]  39  M.  El- Kuteibeh.  —  49  M.  Sheikh  Miskin  (Turkish 
telegraph),  a  large  and  thriving  village.  Excursions  may  be  made 
hence  to  (1  hr.)  Sheikh  Sard  (p.  157)  and  El-Merkez  (p.  158). 

54'/2  M.  Dd'el;  691/2  M.  Tafas. 


Haurdn. 


SHEIKH  SArD. 


19.  Route.    157 


63  M.  El-Muzeirib  (1435  ft.),  with  800  inhab.,  is  the  rendezvous 
of  the  caravan  of  pilgrims  (p.  310).  The  caravan  halts  here  for  several 
days  both  going  and  returning,  and  a  great  market  is  held  on  each 
occasion.  El-Muzeirib,  unhealthily  situated  in  a  swampy  district,  is 
also  a  station  on  the  Der'at-Haifa  line  (p.  235).  It  consists  of  a  new 
and  an  old  village.  The  new  village,  Ed-Dakdktn,  on  the  N.  side  of 
the  hill,  has  a  not  unimportant  market  for  Beduins  and  the  ruins 
of  the  Kal'at  el-Jedideh,  or  'New  Castle'.  The  older  village,  Kom 
el-Muzeirlb,  is  situated  on  the  site  of  the  former  and  more  important 
town,  on  an  island  in  the  middle  of  the  Bahrat  el-Bajjeh,  a  large, 
clear  pool,  abounding  in  fish.  One  of  the  sources  of  the  Yarmuk 
(p.  236)  flows  out  of  this  pool.  It  is  a  bathing-place  for  pilgrims  and 
is  regarded  as  sacred.  On  the  E.  side  of  the  village  rises  the  largo 
ruined  'Old  Castle'  (Kal'at  el-'Atika),  which  is  said  to  have  been  built 
by  Sultan  Selim  (d.  1522).  In  the  interior  is  a  small  ruined  mosque. 

b.  By  the  Pilgrim  Route  (Derb  el-Hajj). 

16  lirs.  As  far  as  Sheikh  Sa'd  the  road  is  good,  and  carnages  may 
proceed  even  to  El-Muzeirib. 

From  the  Bauwdbet  Allah  (p.  310)  we  reach  El-Kadem  in 
20  min.;  cross  the  Wddi  el-Berdi,  with  El-Ashrapyeh  to  the  right, 
in  1  hr. ;  and  in  1  hr.  20  min.  arrive  at  El-Kisu'eh  on  the  Nahr  el- 
A'waj  (p.  151).  Thence  the  route  skirts  the  railway  (p.  156).  1/2  hr. 
Khdn  Dennun;  25  min.  El-Khiydra ;  II/4 hr.  Subbet  Fir'aun  (p.  156), 
on  the  right;  1/2  hr.  Mezdr  Elyesha'  (p.  166),  on  the  left;  40  min. 
(ihabdyhib;  iy2  hr.  Dldi  and  Tell  el-Hamtr,  on  the  left;  20  min. 
Es-Sanamein  (p.  156).  Thence  we  proceed  via  Inkhil  and  Obtei'a  to 
(lS1^  M. ;  in  about  6  hrs.)  the  large  village  of  Nawa,  the  ancient 
Neve,  the  home  of  the  celebrated  Muslim  theologian  Nawawi.  The 
village  has  been  entirely  built  from  the  ruins,  but  two  ancient 
buildings  still  remain:  the  Meddfeh  (public  inn),  possibly  an  an- 
cient mausoleum,  and  a  tower,  49  ft.  high. 

About  3'/2  M.  (IV4  hr.)  beyond  Nawa  we  reach  Sheikh  Sa'd 
(Turkish  telegraph),  a  wretched  village  inhabited  by  negroes,  who 
were  established  here  by  the  son  of  rAbd  el-Kader.  The  village 
contains  ruins  and  antiquities.  On  the  S.W.  end  of  the  hill  is  the 
Stone  of  Job  (Snkhrat  Eyyub),  within  a  Muslim  place  of  prayer.  At 
this  block  of  basalt,  about  6^2  ft-  in  height,  Job  is  said  to  have  been 
visited  by  his  friends.  The  stone  is  a  monument  of  Ramses  II.  (ca. 
1300  B.C.)  and  bears  an  Egyptian  inscription  with  a  relief  of  Osiris 
and  the  king.  The  church  of  Job,  which  was  visited  by  St.  Silvia 
(end  of  the  4th  cent.),  probably  stood  here.  —  At  the  foot  of  the  hill 
is  the  Bath  of  Job  (Hammdm  Eyyub),  in  which  Job  is  said  to  have 
bathed  after  his  cure,  and  which  is  venerated  by  the  fellahiu  and 
Beduins  for  its  healing  virtue.  Adjoining  it  to  the  W.  is  the  Makdm 
Sheikh  Sa'd,  formerly  shown  as  the  tomb  of  Job  (Makdm  Eyyub). 
Comp.  ZDPV.  xiv.  142  et  soq. ;  xv.  196  et  scq.,  205  et  seq. 

10* 


158   Route  19.  MONASTERY  OF  JOB. 


Haurdn. 


El-Merkez,  the  seat  of  government  of  the  Hauran  (Mutesarrif), 
with  Serai,  barracks,  international  telegraph-office,  and  the  resi- 
dences of  the  officials,  lies  about  l/a  M.  to  the  S.  of  Sheikh  Sard.  It 
has  a  market  (beer  and  other  liquors)  and  a  locanda,  where  accom- 
modation of  a  primitive  character  may  be  obtained.  In  the  N.W. 
corner  are  the  remains  of  the  ancient  Monastery  of  Job  (l)eir 
Eyyub),  now  converted  into  barracks.  To  the  W.  of  the  place 
is  a  building  called  Makdm  Eyyub,  containing  the  tombs  of  Job 
and  his  wife. 

Job,  according  to  a  popular  tradition,  was  a  native  of  Jolan,  and 
early  Arabian  authors  and  the  mediaeval  Christians  even  point  out  his 
birthplace  in  the  neighbourhood  of  Nawa.  The  great  veneration  of  the 
Hauranians  for  this  shrine  indicates  that  it  must  have  had  an  origin 
earlier  than  Islamism.  According  to  Arabian  authors  the  monastery  was 
built  by  the  Jefnide  fAmr  I.  (p.  155),  and  it  probably  dates  from  the 
middle  of  the  3rd  century. 

About  1  M.  beyond  El-Merkez  is  the  village  of  'Adwdn,  on  the 
right;  l^M.  farther  on  is  the  ruin  of  Et-Tireh ;  and  2^4  M.  farther 
on  is  a  new  bridge  spanning  the  Wadi  el-Ehreir.  On  the  left  is  the 
Tell  es-Semen,  where  the  Beduin  tribe  of  the  Wuld  'Ali  encamp 
from  the  month  of  April  on;  a  visit  to  the  camp  is  interesting. 
Thence  we  ride  to  the  S.W.  to  (1V4  M.)  the  humble  village  of  Tell 
el-Ash'ari,  possibly  the  AsMaroih  of  Joshua  ix.  10.  The  pond  Bahrat 
el-Ash'ari  was  perhaps  an  ancient  naumachia,  fed  by  the  numerous 
springs  of  the  neighbourhood.  —  3  M.  El-Muzeirib  (p.  157). 

3.  From  Jerash  to  Derrat  (El-Muzeirib;  9-10  hrs.). 

Jerash,  see  p.  138.  Quitting  the  village  by  the  left  bank  of  the 
stream,  we  ascend  the  slopes  of  the  Jebel  Kafkafa.  In  about  l1/*  hr. 
we  reach  the  top  of  a  narrow  ridge  called  Thughrat  'Asfur,  whence  a 
route  diverges  to  the  left  to  Suf.  We  next  reach  (1  hr.)  the  wide 
valley  of  the  Wddi  Warrdn.  0/4  hr.  Na'eimeh,  a  well-built  village 
of  some  size  (good  water).  35  min.  Kitti,  a  poor  village.  Thence 
we  descend  through  a  fertile  district  to  (65  min.)  El-Hum,  or  Hum 
'Ajlun  (193b  ft.),  with  about  1200inhab.,  half  of  whom  are  Christian. 
The  Latins  have  a  school  and  pilgrim-hospice  here,  the  Greeks  a 
chapel,  school,  and  hospice.  There  are  few  antiquities.  To  the  N. 
is  the  castle  of  Tell  el-Hum,  with  traces  of  an  ancient  girdle-wall. 
Accommodation  in  the  Latin  or  Greek  mission-house. 

The  route  proceeds  hence  in  */%  hr.  to  the  prosperous  village 
of  Sarlkh,  where  it  divides.  To  the  N.W.  it  leads  to  (ll/2  hr.)  Irbid 
(p.  159),  and  to  the  N.E.  to  (2^4 hrs.)  Er-Rerntheh,  whence  we  may 
reach  Der'dt  (p.  152)  in  l3/4  hr.  Between  these  runs  a  third  road 
(to  the  N.N.E. ),  leading  in  */._>  hr.  to  Humour.  After  about  2J/4  hrs. 
we  join  the  great  pilgrim-route  at  Et-  Turra  (p.  160).  In  ^4  hr.  we 
cross  the  Wddi  el-Medddn,  the  lower  part  of  the  Wadi  ez-Zeidi 
(p.  152),  then  in  1/2  hr.  the  Wddi  ed-Dahab,  and  in  !/4  hr.  more 
reach  El-Muzeirib  (p.  157). 


Haurdn. 


IRBID, 


79.  Route.    159 


4.  From  Tiberias  to  Der'at  (El-Muzeirib)  via  Irbid. 

About  15  hrs.  To  Irbid,  10-11  hrs. ;  thence  to  Der'at,  about  il/t  hrs.  The 
traveller  may  send  on  the  horses  in  advance  to  Samakh  (sec  below)  and 
perform  the  first  part  of  the  journey  by  boat. 

Tiberias,  see  p.  247.  A  carriage-road  is  in  course  of  construction 
from  Tiberias  to  Samakh  (see  below).  —  We  skirt  the  shore  of  the 
Lake  of  Tiberias  to  the  S.  to  ('2  hrs.)  the  Efflux  of  the  Jordan,  pass- 
ing the  hot  baths  (p.  250)  and  the  ruins  of  Sinn  en-Nabra,  the 
ancient  Sennabris,  a  town  and  castle  commanding  the  road.  This 
spot  lias  been  erroneously  identified  with  Taricheae  (p.  251).  Traces 
of  fortifications  have  been  found  also  on  the  hill  of  Kerak,  to  the  E. 
of  Sinn  en-Nabra. 

We  cross  the  Jordan  by  the  ford  Bdb  et-Tumm,  turn  to  the  S. 
beyond  the  river  at  Samakh  (railway-station,  seep.  236),  and  reach  the 
mouth  of  the  SherVat  el-Menudireh(see  below)  in  1  hr.,  and  the  bridge 
of  Jisr  el-Mujami'  (railway  from  Haifa  to  Damascus,  see  p.  235)  in 
l/2  hr.  more.  Thence  we  ride  to  the  S.E.  to  the  (!/•>  hr.)  Wadi  el- 
'Arab,  which  we  ascend  to  the  Wadi  Zahar.  We  then  follow  the 
latter  (to  the  S.E.)  via  Hofd  and  Zahar  en-Nasdra,  and,  in  about 
7  hrs.  from  Jisr  el-Mujami',  reach  — 

Irbid,  an  important  and  newly  built  place  with  2000  inhab.,  the 
chief  town  of  the  Kada  of  'Ajlun.  Turkish  telegraph-office.  To  the 
S.  of  the  village  is  a  large  reservoir.  Basaltic  blocks  with  inscriptions 
are  found  here. 

From  Irbid  the  road  (an  ancient  thoroughfare,  uniting  the  Hauran 
with  the  coast)  leads  to  the  N.E.  via  the  Wadi  esh-Shelldleh  to  (ca.  3  hrs.) 
Er-Remtheh  (p.  158),  and  thence  to  (13/4  hr.)  Der'at  (p.  152). 

From  Irbid  to  El-Muzeirib  via  Et-Turra  (.ca.  5  hrs.),  see  p.  158. 

5.  From  Tiberias  to  Der'at  (El-Muzeirib)  via  Mukeis. 

About  14  hrs.  To  Mukeis,  5  hra.j  thence  to  Beit  er-Rdi,  4  hrs.;  from 
Beit  er-Ras  to  El-Muzeirib,  4'/2  hrs.  —  The  traveller  may  send  on  the  horses 
in  advance  from  Tiberias  to  Samakh  (see  above),  and  perform  that  part 
of  the  journey  by  boat.    Carriage-read  to  Samakh  in  course  of  construction. 

From  Tiberias  to  the  ford  of  Bdb  et-Tumm,  at  the  efflux  of  the  Jordan 
(2  hrs.),  see  above.  On  the  opposite  bank  we  proceed  to  the  S.E.  via 
Samakh  (railway-station,  p.  236)  to  (ca.  1  hr.)  the  SherVat  el-Menddireh,  at 
the  point  where  it  enters  the  plain  of  Jordan  (see  above). 

From  this  point  we  ascend  the  wild  valley  (3  M.)  to  the  famous  Hot 
Springs  of  Oadara,  or  Amatha,  now  called  El-Hammi  (railway-station,  p. 237). 
—  About  1  hr.  from  the  ford  at  the  baths  we  reach  — 

Mukeis  (Mkeis),  the  ancient  Oadara,  a  city  of  the  Decapolis,  the  capital 
of  Percea,  and  a  strong  fortress  as  early  as  the  reign  of  Antiochus  the 
Great.  Alexander  Jannseus  took  the  stronghold.  Pompey  restored  the 
town  to  please  his  freedman  Demetrius,  a  native  of  the  place.  Augustus 
presented  the  town  to  Herod  the  Great,  but  after  that  prince's  death 
annexed  it  to  the  province  of  Syria.  In  the  Jewish  War  it  opened  its 
gates  to  Vespasian.  Numerous  coins  of  the  city  of  Gadara  belonging  to 
the  Roman  period  are  still  found.  Gadara  afterwards  became  the  residence 
of  the  bishop  of  Palcestina  Secunda.  The  town  was  famed  for  its  baths. 
The  ancient  name  of  Gadara  is  still  preserved  in  that  of  the  caverns  of 
iJadHr  Mukeis\  and  the  name  of  iJadar"  is  mentioned  by  the  older  Arabian 
geographers. 


■I 


160   Route  19. 


MUKEIS. 


Hauran. 


Mukeis  lies  1194ft.  above  the  sea-level,  on  the  W.  extremity  of  a 
mountain-crest  rising  between  the  valley  of  the  Yarniuk  (p.  236)  on  the 
N.  and  the  Wadi  'Arab  on  the  S.  Approaching  from  the  E.,  we  first  come 
to  tomb-caverns  with  various  chambers  and  doors  in  stone,  still  preserved, 
some  of  them  with  rudely  executed  busts  on  the  architraves.  Some  of 
these  chambers  also  contain  sarcophagi,  while  other  sarcophagi  lie  scattered 
along  the  slopes  of  the  hill.  These  are  richly  adorned  with  garlands  and 
busts  of  Apollo  and  genii;  the  lids  are  drafted  at  the  corners  and  sloped 
sharply  upwards.  —  To  the  W.  of  these  caverns  we  come  to  a  Theatre, 
the  upper  parts  of  which  have  fallen  in.  A  good  survey  of  the  ruins  is 
obtained  hence.  About  360  paces  farther  to  the  W.  lies  another  and  larger 
theatre,  built  of  basalt  and  on  the  whole  well  preserved,  though  the  stage 
is  covered  with  rubbish.  The  aristocratic  quarter  of  the  town  extended 
from  the  theatres  towards  the  W.,  along  the  foot  of  the  hill,  on  a  level 
plateau  about  l'/j  M.  in  width.  Many  fragments  of  columns  with  Corinthian 
capitals  lie  scattered  about.  Substructions  of  buildings  are  also  traceable, 
and  in  many  places  the  ruts  of  carriage-wheels  are  still  visible  on  the 
basalt  pavement.  —  Still  farther  to  the  W.  lies  a  modern  cemetery,  and  on 
the  slope  of  ihe  hill  here  we  enjoy  a  charming  view  of  the  Jordan  valley. 

Beyond  Mukeis  we  follow  the  ancient  conduit  (Kan&t  Eii'aun)  which 
is  visible  at  intervals  along  the  route  and  comes  from  Der'at.  It  was  con- 
structed by  the  Ghassanide  king  Jebeleh  I.  After  ca.  Vs  hr.  we  pass  on  the 
right  the  ruined  temple  of  El-Kabti.  We  continue  to  ride  along  the  heights 
eastwards.  For  some  time  we  have  a  view  of  Irbid  on  a  long  mountain- 
ridge  to  the  S.E.,  while  a  little  to  the  N.  of  it,  on  the  highest  summit, 
appears  Beit  er-Kas.  After  40  ruin,  we  diverge  to  the  right  from  the  Roman 
road,  which  leads  straight  on  to  the  E.  to  Irbid  (p.  159).  Our  route 
descends  to  the  (•/«  hr.)  spring  of  'Ain  Omm  el-Jerein,  from  which  a  descent 
of  20  min.  more  brings  us  to  the  Wddi  BarHka.  Ascending  the  valley, 
we  reach  the  top  in  about  1  hr.,  and  see  before  us  the  hill  on  which  lies 
Beit  er-Ras,  while  Irbid  is  seen  to  the  right.  In  50  min.  more  (S1/^  hrs.  from 
Mukeis)  we  reach  Beit  er-Kas,  which  probably  corresponds  to  the  ancient 
Capitolias,  an  important  fortified  town  in  a  commanding  position.  The 
interesting  ruins  here  are  extensive  and  in  some  cases  well  preserved. 
Fine  view  from  the  Tell  el-Khadr. 

The  route  from  Beit  er-Ras'  to  El-Muzeirib  (4,/2  hrs.)  is  an  old  Roman 
road  leading  due  E.  across  the  tableland.  In  3/4  hr.  we  reach  the  village 
of  Meru  and  in  about  ]/2  hr.  more  the  upper  verge  of  the  Wddi  er-Rdhub, 
on  the  height  beyond  which  appears  El-Emgheiyir.  A  steep  descent  of 
20  min.  is  followed  by  an  equally  steep  ascent  of  20  min.  on  the  other 
side  of  the  valley.  We  then  ride  close  by  El-Emgheiyir  and  in  lfe  hr.  cross 
the  deep  Wadi  esh-Shelldleh,  and  then  the  shallow  Wddi  esh-Sh&mar,  beyond 
which  we  reach  O/4  hr.)  Et-Tvrra,  and  in  1/4  hr.  more  join  the  Verb  el- 
Hajj,  or  great  pilgrim-route'.  Following  the  last,  we  cross  the  O/4  hr.) 
shallow  depression  of  the  Wddi  el-Medddn,  below  the  ancient  ruined  bridge, 
and  the  O/zhr.)  Wddi  ed-Dahab  by  means  of  a  new  bridge,  and  in  '/<  hr. 
more  reach  the  railway-station  of  El-Muzeirib  (p.  157). 


G.  From  Der'&t  (El-Muzeirib)  to  Bosrfi,  (about  7i/2his.'). 

From  Der'at  a  broad  road  (an  old  Roman  road,  p.  159)  leads 
E.S.E.  to  Bosra  (7i/2  hrs.).  About  l1/*  M.  up  the  valley  the  con- 
duit Kan&t  Fir'aun  ( see  above)  crosses  the  Wadi  ez-Zeidi  by  means  of 
an  aqueduct  called  Ji&r  el-Meisari.  In  IV2  hr.  (from  Der'at)  we  see 
(on  the  right)  the  round  ruin-heap  of  Gharz.  We  next  pass  (V?  hr.) 
Vmm  el-Meyadin ,  on  the  right,  at  the  junction  of  the  Wadi  el- 
JJutm  and  the  Wadi  ez-Zeidi.  The  Roman  road  (a  few  remains)  runs 
about  300  yds.  to  the  N.  of  the  village.  Farther  on  are  the  lava 
ridge  of  Nukat  el-Khatib,  with  traces  of  ruins,   and  (%  hr.)  the 


Haur&n. 


BOSRA. 


29.  Route.    161 


prosperous  village  of  Et-  Tayyibeh  (on  the  right).  Here  we  once  more 
cross  the  Wadi  ez-Zeidi,  by  means  of  an  ancient  bridge  with  two 
arches.  About  1  hr.  farther  on  we  see  the  village  of  Jizeh,  on  both 
sides  of  the  valley  (about  650  yds.  to  the  N.  of  the  road).  In  the  E. 
part  of  the  village  is  an  old  church  (now  used  as  a  stable  by  the 
sheikh),  and  to  the  N.  is  an  ancient  (Christian)  tower,  near  a  ruined 
monastery.  Bosra,  and  beyond  it  the  Tell  es-Sufeih,  near  Salkhad, 
become  visible.  After  ca.  35  min.  we  observe  some  extensive  ruins 
on  the  left,  near  the  valley  of  Khirbet  el-Harwasi.  3/4hr.  Ghasm,  with 
a  ruined  church,  beyond  which  we  pass  the  ruin  of  Rujm  el-Misrif 
(perhaps  a  Roman  customs-station').  On  the  left  lies  El-Mu'arribeh, 
with  a  tower  and  fragments  of  a  monastic- looking  edifice  to  the 
N.  Farther  distant,  to  the  N.,  lies  the  Christian  village  of  Kharaba. 
We  next  pass  (l1^  hr.)  Hommds  on  the  right,  and  in  l1^  hr.  more 
reach  — 


Bosra,  also  called  EsMShdm^  Old  Damascus'),  the  ancient  capital 
of  the  llauran.  It  is  a  poor-looking  village  with  about  1000  inhab., 
including  a  garrison  of  over  100  men,  and  is  partly  enclosed  by 
fortified  walls. 

Owing  to  its  remarkably  commanding  situation  Bosra  was  probably 
a  place  of  some  importance  at  an  early  period.  It  is  first  mentioned 
in  1  Mace.  v.  26.  It  belonged  to  the  Nabata>an  kingdom,  which  was 
formed  into  the  Roman  province  of  Arabia  by  Cornelius  Palma  in  105 
(or  106)  B.C.  Bosra  became  the  headquarters  of  the  Legio  III.  Cyrcnaica 
and  soon  afterwards  the  seat  of  the  governor.  From  the  capture  of 
the  town  dates  the  so-called  Bostrian  era,  which  began  on  March  22nd, 
106,  and  was  soon  adopted  throughout  the  province  of  Arabia  in  reckon- 
ing time.  Trajan  enlarged  and  embellished  the  town,  which  thereupon 
assumed  the  name  Nova  Trajana  liostra  on  coins  and  in  inscriptions. 
In  the  reign  of  Alexander  Severus  (222-235)  the  town  became  a  Roman 
colony;  and  under  Philippus  Arabs,  who  was  born  here,  it  was  made  the 
metropolis.  When,  probably  under  Diocletian,  the  province  was  divided 
into  Palirstina  Tertia  (the  S.  half,  with  Petra  for  its  capital)  and  Arabia 
(the  N.  half),  Boslra  or  Bosra  was  retained  as  the  capital  of  the  latter.  — 
Bosra  was  an  important  centre. of  the  caravan-traffic.  A  road  led  hence 
direct  to  the  Persian  Gulf,  and  another  to  the  Mediterranean  (p.  159).  It 
was  frequented  by  Arabian  merchants,  including  Mohammed^s  uncle,  who 
was  accompanied  by  the  prophet  himself  (p.  lxv).  At  Bosra  dwelt  the 
monk  Bahira,  who  is  said  to  have  recognized  Mohammed  as  a  prophet. 
Even  in  the  middle  ages  Bosra,  was  very  important  as  a  market  and  as  a 
fortress.  Baldwin  III.  vainly  endeavoured  to  take  the  town.  The  town 
at  length  fell  into  decay,  partly  owing  to  earthquakes  (especially  one  in 
1151) ,  and  afterwards  in  consequence  of  the  weakness  of  the  Turkish 
government. 

The  town  is  intersected  by  two  main  streets,  one  running  from 
E.  to  W.,  and  the  other  from  N.  to  S.  In  the  open  ground,  near 
the  N.W.  corner,  is  an  altar  with  an  inscription.  On  the  left,  out- 
side the  well-preserved  West  Gate,  is  a  small  guard-house.  A  little 
way  to  the  left,  inside  the  gate,  is  a  spring,  adjoining  which  is  a 
low-lying  meadow,  probably  once  a  naumachia  (comp.  p.  139).  In 
the  vicinity  are  the  small  mosque  of  El-Khidr  and  an  old  tomb. 
The  Principal  Street  of  Bosra,  running  from  E.  to  W.,  seems  to 


nmnr 


162    Route  19. 


BOSK  A. 


Hauran. 


have  been  flanked  by  columns.  At  the  entrance  to  the  third  street 
diverging  to  the  right  (S.)  from  the  main  street  stands  a  Roman 
Triumphal  Arch.  The  central  arch  of  the  three  is  about  42^2  ft- 
high.  One  of  the  pilasters  bears  a  Latin  inscription.  A  little  farther 
to  the  E. ,  on  the  right,  are  the  remains  of  Baths.  We  now  come  to 
the  point  of  intersection  of  the  two  main  streets.  We  see  on  our 
left  four  large  columns,  which  cut  off  the  corner  of  the  street  in 
an  oblique  direction.  They  have  admirably  executed  Corinthian 
capitals.  —  On  the  opposite  side  of  the  street  are  remains  of  another 


1 .  Temple  *  Colina 
'&  .Mouse,  of  clu>  Jew 

i.Oi  n  \.ott 

(i .  m ....       ■ 


The' Ruins    of 

I    35,000  8@S  R.A  (LiOSTRA). 


beautiful  Building  (PI.  1),  which  may  have  been  a  temple  or  a 
colonnade,  of  which  two  columns  with  bases  of  white  marble  are 
preserved;  in  the  wall  are  three  rows  of  niches. 

On  the  right  side  of  the  cross-street  leading  to  the  N.  we  come 
to  a  series  of  open  vaults,  which  once  evidently  formed  the  Bazaar 
of  Bosra.  On  the  left  is  the  so-called  House  of  the  Jew  (PI.  2),  who 
was  unjustly  deprived  of  his  original  dwelling,  which,  however,  was 
rebuilt  after  the  mosque  erected  on  the  spot  had  been  pulled  down 
by  order  of  the  righteous-minded  Khalif  'Omar.  Also  on  the  left 
we  next  see  a  deserted  Mosque,  the  foundation  of  which  is  ascribed 
to  Khalif 'Omar.  The  materials  are  ancient.  One  column  bears  the 
date  383  (of  the  Bostrian  era),  or  A.D.  489.  At  the  entrance  is  a 
kind  of  porch  with  columns,  then  a  quadrangle  having  a  double  open 
passage  on  two  sides.  The  arches  rest  on  antique  columns,  seventeen 


Haurdri. 


BOSH  A. 


19.  Route.    163 


of  which  are  monoliths  of  white  marble,  while  the  others  are  of 
basalt.  A  handsome  frieze  runs  round  the  walls.  At  the  N.E. 
corner  of  the  mosque  stands  a  minaret,  with  a  handsome  stone  door, 
the  ascent  of  which  richly  rewards  the  visitor.  The  view  embraces 
the  Nukra  (p.  152),  an  undulating  plain ,  clothed  with  vegetation 
in  spring;  to  the  E.  is  the  hill  of  Salkhad;  to  the  S.W.  rises  the 
Jebel  'Ajlun;  and  towards  the  S.  extends  the  steppe  in  which, 
about  5  hrs.  off,  are  the  interesting  ruins  of  Uinm  el-Jemal  (possibly 
Beth  Gamul,  Jeremiah  xlviii.  23).  —  On  the  side  of  the  street  op- 
posite the  mosque  are  the  ruins  of  a  large  bath. 

Proceeding  to  the  E.  from  the  intersection  of  the  main  streets, 
we  come  to  the  quarter  of  Modern  Bosra.  Farther  on  the  street  is 
spanned  by  a  Roman  arch,  to  the  right  (S.)  of  which  are  the  ruins 
of  a  large  house  with  many  fragments  of  sculptures  and  columns. 
The  street  which  diverges  here  to  the  left  leads  to  the  old  '■Church 
of  the  Monk  Bahira!  (PI.  4),  a  square  building  externally,  but  a 
rotunda  internally.  The  dome  has  fallen  in.  According  to  an  in- 
scription on  the  gateway,  the  church  was  built  in  407  of  the  Bostrian 
era  [i.e.  513).  A  building  a  little  to  the  N.  of  this  bears  a  beauti- 
ful Arabic  inscription.  Near  the  church  the  Monastery  of  Bahira 
(PI.  5)  is  also  pointed  out.  The  roof  has  fallen  in.  On  the  N.  side 
is  a  vaulted  niche,  with  a  Latin  inscription  adjacent.  Still  farther 
N.  the  House  (Bar)  of  Bahira  (PI.  6)  is  shown;  over  the  door  is 
a  Greek  inscription.  —  Farther  to  the  N.,  outside  the  town,  is  the 
mosque  of  El- Mehrak,  or  the  'place  of  kneeling',  where  the  camel 
of 'Othman,  which  carried  the  Koran,  or,  according  to  other  versions, 
the  she-camel  of  Mohammed,  is  said  to  have  knelt. 

Outside  the  wall,  on  the  E.  side  of  the  town,  lies  a  large  Reser- 
voir, with  tolerably  preserved  substructions.  A  larger  reservoir  near 
the  S.E.  corner  of  the  town  is  in  still  better  preservation.  At  its 
N.E.  angle  are  the  ruins  of  a  mosque. 

To  the  S.  of  the  town  rises  the  huge  Castle,  which  was  erected 
by  the  Eyyubide  sultans  during  the  first  half  of  the  13th  century. 
A  bridge  of  six  arches  leads  to  a  series  of  subterranean  vaulted 
chambers,  where  visitors  should  beware  of  the  cistern-openings  in 
the  ground.  Beyond  these  we  reach  the  platform  inside  the  castle, 
where  are  still  seen  the  six  tiers  of  seats  of  the  Roman  Theatre 
that  constituted  the  nucleus  of  the  building  (PI.  7).  The  stage  was 
bounded  by  a  wall  in  two  stories,  behind  each  of  which  ran  a 
passage.  The  theatre  was  about  79  yds.  in  diameter.  The  tiers 
of  seats  are  partly  concealed  by  the  later  buildings.  Between  the 
lower  double  stairs  are  doors  from  which  passages  descend  to  the 
'vomitoria'  (approaches  to  the  stage  and  the  auditorium).  Around 
the  highest  tier  of  seats  ran  a  colonnade,  a  few  columns  of  which 
are  still  preserved.  Descending  passages  also  ran  below  the  land- 
ings of  the  stairs.  —  The  S.  battlements  of  the  castle  command  a 
fine  view. 


164  Route  19. 


(mmn. 


Hauran. 


6.  From  Bosra  to  Damascus. 

Distances :  to  Es-Suweidd,  3s/*  hrs. ;  El-Kanawdt.  2  hrs. ;  Shuhba,  23,k  hrs. ; 
Bur&k,  9'/2hrs.  •,  Damascus,  6J/2  hrs. 

From  Bosra  a  Roman  road  leads  due  N.  to  ('/2hr.)  Jemarrin. 
To  the  N.  of  this  village  a  bridge  (near  which  stands  a  watch-tower) 
crosses  the  Wddi  ed-Dahab  (p.  160).  The  road  next  reaches  (V2  nr0 
Deir  ez-Zubeir,  probably  once  a  monastery.    r^Ereh  is  1  hr.  distant. 

'2Ereb.  lies  on  an  eminence  between  two  water-courses.  The  ruins 
are  extensive ,  but  insignificant.  The  place  derives  some  impor- 
tance from  being  the  residence  of  a  Druse  chieftain.  The  'castle', 
fitted  up  in  half-European  style,  was  erected  by  Imia'll  el-Atrash 
(d.  1869),  the  chief  sheikh  of  the  Druses  of  the  Hauran. 

Leaving  r.iEreh,  we  descend  the  hill  to  the  N.  and  cross  a  brook. 
In  1  hr.  we  reach  the  thinly  peopled  valley  of  Mujeidil,  near  which, 
to  the  left,  lies  the  building  of  Deir  et-Treif.  "We  (^hr.)  begin  to 
ascend.  Beyond  the  building  of  Deir  Sendn  (left)  we  reach  (10  min.) 
Es-Suweidd  (see  below). 

From  Boska  to  Es-Scweida  via  Hebran,  about  6  hrs.  We  ride  towards 
the  N.E.,  cross  the  Wddi  Abu  Hamdka,  and  in  8/4  hr.  reach  the  Wddi 
lids  el-Bedr.  We  then  pass  (3/4  hr.)  Qhassdn  on  the  left,  Deir  el-'Abud  to 
the  right,  then  Huzhuz ,  and  (1  hr.)  the  Druse  village  of  El-'Afineh.  To 
the  E.  of  the  village,  near  a  Roman  road,  are  the  arches  of  an  aqueduct 
which  Trajan  caused  to  be  conducted  hither  from  El-Kanawat.  In  s/t  hr. 
we  reach  IJebran,  a  Druse  village  commanding  a  line  view.  To  the  S.  of 
the  village  are  the  fine  ruins  of  a  castle,  adjoined  by  those  of  a  church. 
According  to  a  Greek  inscription,  the  building  was  erected  in  155  by 
Antoninus  Pius,  so  that  it  was  originally  a  pagan  structure.  In  the  middle 
of  the  village  are  the  remains  of  another  small  church. 

A  pleasant  route  leads  in  40  min.  from  Hebran  to  El-Kafr,  where  there 
is  a  handsome  medafeh.  The  houses,  and  even  the  narrow  lanes  with 
pavements  on  each  side,  are  admirably  preserved.  On  the  W.  side  of  the 
little  town  is  a  handsome  gate.  Proceeding  to  the  N.  of  El-Kafr,  we  soon 
reach  (10  min.)  the  copious  'Ain  Musd  or  Well  of  Moses,  which  waters  the 
village  of  Sahwet  el-Khidr,  situated  3V4  hrs.  to  the  S.E.  From  the  well 
we  may  ascend  in  1  hi-,  to  the  top  of  the  Kuleib  (5635  ft.),  one  of  the 
highest  mountains  in  the  Hauran.  The  cone  of  this  mountain  contains 
a  wide  cleft,  to  which  we  ride  across  a  plain  covered  with  volcanic  sub- 
stances and  thus  reach  the  extinct  crater,  forming  an  extensive  wooded 
basin.  The  actual  summit  can  be  reached  on  foot  only  and  with  some 
climbing.  A  little  below  it  are  several  caverns,  probably  used  for  collecting 
rain-water.  On  the  small  height  to  the  left  are  the  ruins  of  a  temple.  — 
From  the  base  of  the  Kuleib  to  Es-Suweidd  is  a  ride  of  ca.  2  hrs.  The  Be- 
duins  ('Ajeildl)  who  are  in  possession  of  this  district,  as  well  as  their 
dogs,  sometimes  molest  travellers. 

Es-Suweida  (Turkish  telegraph),  the  residence  of  the  Kaim- 
makam  of  the  Jebel  ed-Druz  (Druse  Mountains,  p.  155)  and  of  the 
military  commandant  of  the  Hauran  (garrison),is  probably  the  ancient 
Maximianopolis.  Nerva  constructed  a  nymphaeum  and  an  aqueduct 
here.  —  Starting  from  the  Medafeh,  we  first  come  to  a  small  Temple. 
A  street  leads  hence  to  a  Gate  resembling  a  triumphal  arch.  Farther 
down,  near  the  centre  of  the  little  town,  lie  the  ruins  of  a  large 
Basilica  of  the  4th  or  5th  century.  We  next  come  to  a  Mosque,  oc- 
cupying the  site  of  an  older  public  building.  Near  it  is  the  so-called 


Haur&n. 


EL-KAN  A  WAT. 


19.  Route.   165 


Mehkemeh,  or  Court  House,  with  a  Greek  inscription.  Ascending  the 
hill,  we  reach  a  large  reservoir.  Beyond  the  N.  valley,  on  the  road 
to  El-Kanawat,  we  cross  a  Roman  bridge  and  reach  an  interesting 
tomb,  which  rises  on  a  hasement  with  rude  Doric  half-columns  and 
bears  an  inscription  (perhaps  of  the  1st  cent.  A.D). 

El-Kanawat  is  reached  from  Es-Suweida  by  the  direct  road  which 
leads  to  the  N.N.W.  inl^hr.  A  slight  digression  (i/2hr.)  enables 
us  to  visit  'AtU,  a  Druse  village  which  contains  a  small  and  elegantly- 
built  temple,  now  occupied  as  a  Druse  dwelling,  and  dating,  accord- 
ing to  the  inscription,  from  the  14th  year  of  the  reign  of  Antoninus 
Pius  (A.D.  151).  Passing  an  old  church  with  a  tower,  we  come  to 
another  temple,  called  El-Kasr,  to  the  N.  of  the  village. 

El-Kanawat,  perhaps  the  Biblical  Kenath  (Numb,  xxxii.  42), 
and  more  certainly  the  Kanatha  of  classical  writers,  was,  as  is 
indicated  by  inscriptions,  a  flourishing  town  at  an  earlier  date  than 


T&liii-s  of 

KJNiA.W&T  (KENATH) 


&3gmk 


Bosra.  Pliny  and  Ptolemy  both  include  it  in  the  Decapolis,  and 
Eusebius  includes  it  in  the  province  of  Arabia.  Bishops  of  Kanatha 
are  mentioned  in  connection  with  several  councils.  Coins  of  the 
town  have  been  found  with  a  veiled  head  of  Isis  on  the  reverse. 

On  the  W.  side  of  the  town,  outside  the  town-wall  and  to  the 
left  of  the  road  to  the  Es-Suweida,  stand  the  ruins  of  a  small 
peripteral  Temple.  This  rises  on  a  terrace,  10  ft.  in  height,  and, 
according  to  the  inscription,  was  dedicated  to  Helios. 

Turning  hence  to  the  E.  into  the  valley,  we  reach  the  lanes  of 
the  Lower  Town  of  El-Kanawat.  It  lies  on  the  left  bank  of  the  brook, 


m^-J£ek  ■k^.'^C'  '<«L>J**V-  •fc.'  Ui-  W-JjS 


£";&; 


166 


i?ou?e  29. 


EL-KANAWAT. 


TIauriin. 


■which  was  formerly  crossed  hy  several  bridges.  The  streets  are  still 
■well  paved  at  places  and  most  of  the  houses  are  in  good  preservation. 
—  On  the  right  slope  of  the  valley  is  a  handsome  Theatre,  with 
nine  tiers  of  seats.  It  is  almost  entirely  hewn  in  the  rock,  and  is 
ca.  21  yds.  in  diameter.  —  Farther  up  are  the  ruins  of  a  small 
Temple,  perhaps  a  Nymphaeurn,  situated  over  a  spring.  Steps  hewn 
in  the  rock  lead  hence  to  a  massive  Tower,  which  was  perhaps 
connected  with  the  military  defences  of  the  defile  below.  The  sub- 
structions are  older  than  the  Roman  period.  A  little  to  the  E.  of 
this  building  rises  a  large  round  tower  (perhaps  sepulchral),  27  ft. 
in  diameter. 

The  Upper  Town,  on  the  left  bank,  contains  the  principal  part  of 
the  ruins  of  El-Kanawat,  presenting  an  extensive  scene  of  desolation, 
iSear  the  remains  of  a  mill  the  town  is  entered  by  a  beautifully 
preserved  ancient  aqueduct,  adjoining  which  are  fragments  of  huge 
walls,  probably  ante-Roman.  The  principal  building,  known  as  the 
Serai,  is  an  aggregate  of  several  structures.  On  the  W.  side  there 
is  first  a  smaller  building,  which  consists  of  two  independent  edifices 
crossing  each  other;  the  older  had  an  apse  with  three  arches  towards 
the  S.  Another  building  with  an  apse  towards  the  E.  was  then 
erected  across  this  older  portion  ;  and  to  this  belongs  the  large  W. 
facade  with  its  three  vine- wreathed  portals.  To  the  E.  of  this  building 
is  a  long  edifice  which  also  has  a  fine  colonnade  on  the  N.  side. 
Three  gates  led  into  the  vestibule ,  borne  by  18  columns,  of  the 
Church.  On  each  side  of  this  hall  is  a  small  gallery,  covered  with 
three  arches  above.  A  beautiful  and  most  elaborately  executed 
central  portal,  with  a  cross,  leads  into  the  church,  which  is  81  ft. 
in  length.  On  the  S.  side  is  a  large  apse  14^2  ft-  in  depth.  —  To 
the  W.  of  this  point  stands  a  Temple,  a  'prostylos',  with  a  portico 
of  four  huge  columns  about  32  ft.  high.  Near  this  temple  lie  frag- 
ments of  numerous  roughly  executed  statues ,  and  there  seems  to 
have  been  a  Hippodrome  here.  Beyond  the  well-preserved  S.  wall  of 
the  town,  which  is  furnished  with  towers  of  defence,  we  soon  reach 
several  Sepulchral  Towers  concealed  among  oaks.  We  then  re-enter 
the  town  by  a  gate  on  the  S.W.  side.  On  the  left  side  of  the  broad 
paved  street  is  the  ruin  of  a  handsome  house,  once  adorned  with  a 
colonnade,  and  on  the  right  are  the  remains  of  a  large  church  of  a 
late  period. 

At  Sei',  3/4  hr.  to  the  S.S.E.  of  El-Kanawat,  stands  one  of  the  most  in- 
teresting temples  in  the  Hauran,  resembling  in  style  the  Herodian  Temple 
at  Jerusalem,  and  indeed  recording  in  its  inscriptions  the  names  of  Herod 
and  Herod  Agrippa.  The  gazelles,  lion's  head,  saddled  horse,  and  other 
architectural  enrichments,  and  the  rather  stiff  capitals,  are  well  worthy 
of  inspection.  The  altar  at  the  foot  of  the  stall  is  still  in  i tn  original 
position.     The  temple  was  dedicated  to  Ba'al  Smuin  (god  of  heaven). 

From  El-Kanawat  to  Ezra',  see  p.  152. 

Our  route  now  leads  across  a  little-cultivated  plain  to  the  (2  hrs.) 
village  of  'Ain  Murduk,  whence  it  ascends  to  the  N.E.  in  the  direction 


Haurdn. 


SHUHBA. 


19.  Route.    167 


of  the  two  curious  old  craters  of  the  Ghardras.  This  name,  signifying 
a  heap  of  grain,  is  derived  from  a  Muslim  legend,  according  to  which 
the  grain  which  Pharaoh  had  forcibly  taken  away  from  the  peasants 
and  heaped  up  here  was  miraculously  turned  into  stone.  Our  route 
passes  the  S.  crater  and  brings  us  to  Shuhha,  3/4  hr.  after  leaving 
'Ain  Murduk. 

Shuhha.  the  ancient  Philippopolis,  is  still  in  part  surrounded  by 
walls  and  also  contains  a  few  Roman  antiquities.  The  streets,  some 
of  which  are  25  ft.  wide,  are  paved  with  long  slabs,  and  were 
probably  once  flanked  by  colonnades.  At  the  intersection  of  the 
two  main  streets  are  the  remains  of  a  Tetrapylon  (p .  xcv),  and  about 
120  paces  to  the  S.  of  this  are  the  ruins  of  large  Baths,  containing 
lofty  chambers  adorned  with  sculptures.  Gutters  for  the  water,  and 
Ave  arches  of  the  viaduct  which  brought  it  to  the  bath  are  still 
preserved.  The  hooks  or  cramps  on  the  walls  were  used  to  secure  the 
marble  incrustation.  About  230  paces  to  the  E.  of  the  intersection 
of  the  streets  stand  five  columns,  being  remains  of  the  colonnade  of 
a  Temple,  of  which  a  few  fragments  of  walls  are  the  only  other  trace. 
Near  these  are  the  outer  walls  of  an  Amphitheatre,  which  was  built 
against  the  slope.  Between  the  theatre  and  the  principal  street 
stands  a  small  Temple  with  a  kind  of  crypt,  now  filled  with  rubbish. 
—  Proceeding  towards  the  sheikh's  dwelling,  we  now  come  to  a 
curious  building,  buried  14  ft.  deep  in  the  ground.  In  the  centre 
of  the  building  is  a  round  apse  about  13  ft.  wide,  with  niches  on 
each  side  for  statues.  In  front  of  the  building  is  a  large  open  space. 
The  purpose  of  the  building  is  unknown. 

Fkom  Shuhba  to  Burak  via  Shakka  (ca.  11  lira.).  The  route  first  crosses 
the  Wddi  Nirnra  (see  below)  and  then  runs  towards  the  N.E.  On  the 
left,  after  40  min.,  is  seen  El-'Asaliyeh.  On  the  hill  to  the  right  (S.)  lies 
Tafhd.  In  40  min.  more  we  reach  the  large  village  of  Shakka,  the  an- 
cient Sakkaia  (Ptolemy).  Among  the  ruins  are  several  towers  of  different 
periods,  but  few  buildings  are  preserved.  Towards  the  N.E.  are  the  ruins 
of  a  basilica  of  the  2nd  or  3rd  cent.,  with  a  nave  and  aisles.  On  the  E. 
side  of  the  inhabited  quarter  of  the  town  are  remains  of  a  monastery  of 
the  5th  century  (Arab.  Deir  esh-Sharkiyeh),  traces  of  the  semicircular  apse 
of  the  church  of  which  may  be  distinguished.  To  the  N.  of  Shakka  rises 
a  square  tower  called  El-Burj,  in  three  stories.  The  upper  parts'  of  the 
building  are  more  modern  than  the  lower.  A  number  of  mummies  and 
skulls  have  been  found  here.  According  to  the  inscription,  the  tower  was 
erected  by  a  certain  Bassos,  in  the  year  70  of  the  Bostrian  era  (A.D.  176).  — 
From  Shakka  we  ride  to  the  N.W.,  past  Tell  'Izrdn,  to  (*/<  hr.)  El-Hit,  situated 
in  the  Ard  el-Belentyeh.  The  village  contains  several  towers  and  a  reser- 
voir, and  it  is  also  passed  by  a  large  subterranean  conduit  from  the  Wadi 
el-Luwa.  (see  below),  running  from  S.  to  N.  —  To  the  N.W.  of  El-Hit  we 
next  reach  0/2  hr.)  the  village  of  El-ffeiydt,  occupied  by  Roman  Catholics, 
before  entering  which  we  observe  to  the  E.  of  the  road  a  large  building 
with  stone  doors  and  a  terrace  affording  a  fine  view.  In  2  hrs.  more  from 
this  point  we  reach  Ldhiteh  (p.  168). 

The  direct  route  from  Shuhba  to  Damascus  at  first  follows  the 
great  Wddi  Nimra,  called  Wddi  el-Luwd  in  its  lower  part,  which 
separates  this  district  from  the  Lejdh  (p.  151).  The  Ohardrat  esh- 
Shemdltyeh  ('the  northern')  rises  to  the  left,  and  after  crossing  the 


168   itoute  23. 


BL'IIAK. 


Hauran. 


valley  we  pass,  likewise  on  our  left,  the  volcanic  Tell  Shihdn 
(3740  ft.).  The  W.  side  of  the  crater  of  this  hill  is  broken  away, 
so  that  it  somewhat  resembles  an  easy  chair  Without  arms.  From 
its  extensive  crater  and  from  the  Ghardrat  el-Kibllyeh  vast  lava- 
streams  once  poured  over  the  Lejah.  In  50  min.  we  reach  the  village 
of  Vmm  ez-Zeitun,  with  the  unimportant  ruins  of  a  small  temple. 

The  route  skirting  the  Lejah  is  exposed  to  danger  from  the  Be- 
duins.  Little  water  is  to  be  found,  and  the  heat  is  often  oppress- 
ive. A  few  fields  and  many  traces  of  former  cultivation  are  passed. 
The  villages  on  each  side  of  the  route  present  few  attractions.  On 
the  right  are  'Amrd  and  El-Hit  (p.  167),  on  the  left  (25  min.)  Es- 
Suweimira  and  (20 min.)  El-Murasras.  We  next  pass  (20  min.)  L'mm 
el-Hdrttein  and  Sumeid,  farther  to  the  W.,  (^4  hr.)  El-Imtuneh, 
(25  min.)  llijm  el- Is,  (10  min.)  El-Kuseifeh ,  (25  min.)  Ldhiteh, 
(25  min.)  Hadar,  (20  min.)  Er-Rudeimeh,  (25  min.)  Suwarat 
es-Saghtreh,  (t/g  hr. J  DeMr,  (l/2  hr,)  Deir  NUeh.  and  (40  min.) 
Khalkhaleh.  In  2  hrs.  more  we  reach  Suwarat  el-Kebtreh.  To  the 
N.E.  lies  the  extensive  tract  of  Ard  el-Fedayein.  After  '/-2  hr.  we 
cross  the  Wddi  el-Luwa  (p.  167),  and  in  50  min.  more  (9^2  hrs. 
from  Shuhba)  we  reach  — 

Bur&k,  formerly  a  thriving  place,  but  now  very  thinly  peopled. 
Many  old  houses  in  the  style  peculiar  to  the  Hauran  are  still  well 
preserved,  and  there  is  a  flue  reservoir. 

Beyond  Burak  we  at  first  traverse  a  poorly  cultivated  plain,  and 
then  gradually  ascend  a  dreary  range  of  hills.  These  hills  belong  to 
the  Jebel  el-Mdni'  (p.  151).  After  2'/4  hrs.  we  pass,  to  the  left,  the 
Tell  Abu  Shajara,  or  'hill  of  the  tree',  a  name  derived  from  the 
solitary  terebinth  which  grows  here  out  of  the  stony  soil.  Beyond  the 
pass  a  beautiful  view  is  revealed  of  the  dark-blue  plain  of  Damascus. 
Descending  hence,  we  reach  (l^hr.)  the  valley  of  the  Nahr  el-A'waj 
(p.  151),  and  near  it  the  Muslim  village  of  Nejhd,  which,  situated 
in  the  so-called  Wddi  el-Ajam  (belonging  to  Damascus),  presents 
fewer  of  the  characteristics  of  the  Hauran.  We  now.  enter  the  plain 
of  El-Merj.  To  the  right  (E.)  we  see  the  hills  of  the  Safa  (p.  317). 
Jebel  el-Aswad  (p.  262)  rises  on  the  left.  After  spending  two  days 
among  these  inhospitable  deserts  the  traveller  will  be  better  able  to 
appreciate  the  eager  delight  with  which  Orientals  welcome  the  view 
of  the  fruitful  and  well-watered  plain  of  Damascus.  After  II/3  hr. 
we  reach  the  village  of  Kabr  es-Sitt,  or  'tomb  of  the  lady',  so  called 
from  the  fact  that  Zeinab ,  a  granddaughter  of  Mohammed,  is  buried 
here.  After  35  min.  we  pass  the  village  of  Babbila  and  in  ^2  hr. 
more  reach  Damascus  (Bab  esh-Sherki,  p.  311). 


169 


20.  The  Desert  of  Judah  to  the  S.W.  of  the  Dead  Sea. 

Extreme  caution  is  advisable,  in  selecting  a  Dragoman.  Tents  are 
indispensable.  The  necessary  escort  of  soldiers  is  obtained  through  the 
dragoman,  who  is  responsible  for  their  keep  and  pay. 

The  Desert  of  Judah  is  mentioned  in  the  Old  Testament  either  under 
that  name  (Ps.  lxiii.  1),  or  under  the  names  of  its  parts  (1  Sam.  xxiv.  2 
and  other  places).  It  consists  of  an  arid  plateau  about  12-20  H.  broad  and 
60-70  M.  long,  with  small  conical  hills  and  intersected  by  deep  ravines.  — 
The  country  to  the  S.  of  Hebron,  (Heb.  negeb),  contains  many  ruins,  and 
there  are  many  caverns  in  its  hills.  The  ground  is  soft  white  limestone, 
through  which  the  water  penetrates  and ,  where  it  is  not  collected  in 
cisterns ,  runs  away  below  the  surface  of  the  beds  of  the  valleys.  Near 
Yutta,  Dura,  and  Yekin  the  ground  falls  some  490  ft.,  forming  a  plateau 
about  2620  ft.  above  the  sea-level.  This  plateau  is  crossed  by  the  great 
valley  extending  from  Hebron  to  Beersheba  and  then  to  the  W.  to  Gerar. 

1.  Beersheba. 

Fhom  Gaza  to  Beeksheba,  0  hrs.  (carriage-road  in  summer).  To  the 
C/i  hr.)  Jebel  el-ifiuitdr,  see  p.  121.  Leaving  the  summit  of  the  mountain 
to  our  right,  we  ride  in  a  continuous  8.E.  direction  across  the  extensive 
and  tolerably  level  plateau,  from  which  only  a  few  hills  rise  here  and 
there-  In  about  3  hrs.  we  reach  the  Tell  Abu  Hareireh,  near  which  is 
the  Weli  of  that  saint.  The  district  is  cultivated  by  the  Beduins.  Crossing 
the  Wddi  esh-S/ieri'a  almost  immediately,  we  enter  a  more  monotonous  and 
barren  region.  After  about  3l/2  hrs.  we  arrive  at  the  springs  (brackish) 
and  ruins  of  Khirbel  Abu  Rukeiyik.    About  2  hrs.  more  bring  us  to  — 

Khirbet  Bir  es-Seba',  the  ancient  Beersheba,  the  wells  of  which  play 
a  prominent  part  in  the  history  of  the  patriarchs  (Gen.  xxi.  28-32).  Beer- 
sheba was  the  southernmost  town  belonging  to  the  Israelites,  whence  arose 
the  proverbial  phrase  'from  Dan  to  Beersheba'  (Jud.  xx.  1.  etc.).  In  the  days 
of  Eusebius  it  was  a  considerable  market-village  with  a  Roman  garrison; 
and  bishops  of  Beersheba  are  occasionally  mentioned.  By  the  14th  cent., 
however,  the  town  was  deserted.  Extensive  ruined  remains  are  to  be 
seen  on  the  N.  side  of  the  Wddi  et-Seba',  the  lower  part  of  which  is  named 
Wddi  el-Ghazzeh,  the  upper  part  Wddi  el-Klialil.  The  seven  old  wells,  of 
which  six  still  supply  good  water,  lie  on  the  N.  side  of  the  valley,  where 
it  forms  a  curve.  They  are  all  572-12  ft.  in  diameter  and  ca.  45  ft.  deep. 
The  town  now  contains  ca.  800-1000  inhab.,  a  Serai  (Mudir),  a  mosque,  a 
post-office,  and  a  khan.  It  lies  a  little  to  the  S.W.  of  the  old  town  whence 
building-materials  have  been  taken  for  its  construction.  The  ten  or  twelve 
shops  here  supply  the  simple  requirements  of  the  neighbouring  Beduins, 
who  visit  the  place  in  considerable  numbers. 

Feom  Beersheba  to  Hebhon,  8'/4hrs.  The  road  ascends  the  Wddi  el- 
K/talil,  with  Bir  es-Sakdti  and  Bir  el-Mokenneh  to  the  right,  leaving  Bir 
Lekiyeh  to  the  left.  Beyond  the  (3  hrs.)  poor  village  of  Tdtereh  we  re-enter 
the  mountainous  region.  In  I3/*  hr.  more  we  reach  Ed-Ddhariyeh,  which  is 
perhaps  the  Kirjath-Sepher  or  Debit1  of  Judges  i.  11  et  s'eq.  Thence  we  may 
ride  to  Hebron  direct  in  3'/2  hrs.,  or  in  4'/2  hrs.  with  a  detour  to  the  E. 
via.  Yuttd,  the  Jutlah  of  Josh.  xv.  55  and  perhaps  also  the  'city  of  JudaK' 
of  Luke  i.  39. 

2.  Engedi. 
From  Bethlehem  to  Engedi,  9  hrs.  (comp.  Map  at  p.  92).  A  guide 
from  the  Ta'dmireh  Beduins  or  the  Beni  JVa't'/n  is  necessary  and  may  be 
found  either  in  Bethlehem  or  Jerusalem.  —  To  the  Frank  Mountain,  see 
lip.  Ill,  110.  Leaving  this  on  our  left,  we  descend  the  Wddi  ed-Diya',  which 
farther  on  takes  the  name  of  Wddi  Khareilun,  to  the  (V<  hr.)  Wddi  el- 
Ilamdeh,  which  opens  on  the  right.  We  now  ascend  the  ridge  towards 
the  S  E.  for  1/4  hr.  and  then  ride  across  the  high  plateau  of  Kenan  Eskeir. 
At  (1  hr.)  its  other  end  we  pass  two  isolated  hills,  and  after  crossing  sev- 
eral valleys  we  enter  (l^/ihr.)  the  Wddi  Hasdtd.    Descending  this  wadi, 


mmm 


170   Botttc  20. 


ENGEDI. 


Desert  of 


we  pass  in  25  min.  the  cisterns  of  Bir  Snkeiriyeh  and  Bir  Ilasdsd;  after 
l'/i  hr.  the  road  leaves  the  valley  and  passes  over  the  hill  of  \Rd«  en-Nu- 
weita  into  the  (L  hr.)  Wddi  esh-Shakif.  Hence  we  continue  to  the  S.S.E. 
over  the  hilly  plateau,  and  in  l'^hr.  reach  the  culminating  point  of  the 
Pass  of  Engedi  (656  ft.  above  the  sea-level,  1945  ft.  above  the  Dead  Sea; 
magnificent  view).  The  descent  (3/4  hr.)  on  the  other  side  to  Engedi  is 
very  toilsome. 

Fkom  Hebron  to  Engedi,  7-8  hrs.,  a  fatiguing  route.  The  road  ascends 
the  Jebel  Jdbar  (fine  restrospect  from  the  top)  and  in  about  l'/zhr.  reaches 
Tell  Zif  (Ziph,  1  Sam.  xxiii.  24),  on  the  left;  after  40  min.,  cisterns ;  1  hr., 
Wddi  Khabra  (little  water),  which  we  follow  (2  hrs.).  Then  we  ascend  in 
about  l'/a  I'.r-  to  tne  top  of  the  Pass  of  Engedi  (see  above). 

Engedi,  situated  680  ft.  below  the  Mediterranean  and  607  ft.  above  the 
Dead  Sea,  is  now  called  'Ain  Jidi,  both  names  signifying  'goat's  spring'. 
The  precipitous  cliffs  on  one  side  and  the  sea  on  the  other,  the  warmth 
of  the  atmosphere,  and  the  strange-looking  vegetation  combine  to  produce 
an  almost  magical  effect,  especially  by  moonlight.  To  the  wilderness  of 
Engedi  David  once  retired  and  it  was  in  a  cave  here  that  he  spared  the 
life  of  the  sleeping  Saul  (1  Sam.  xxiv.  1,  et  seq.).  The  'camphire  of  En- 
gedi1 (henna,  see  p.  127)  is  mentioned  in  the  Song  of  Solomon  (i.  14). 
According  to  Josephus  there  were  once  beautiful  palm-groves  here,  and 
in  the  time  of  Eusebius  Engedi  was  still  a  place  of  importance.  The 
water  of  the  spring  is  warm  (80°  Fahr.),  sweetish,  and  impregnated  with 
lime,  and  contains  a  number  of  small  black  snails.  The  natives  assert 
that  the  water  comes  under  the  mountain  from  Se'ir  (?)  near  Hebron. 
The  seydl  (Acacia  seyal),  from  which  gum-arabic  is  obtained,  occurs  here 
as  well  as  on  Mt.  Sinai;  likewise  the  sidr  (p.  128),  and  the  'os>ir  (Calolropis 
procera),  which  is  found  also  in  the  Ghor,  opposite  Jericho,  but  nowhere 
else  except  in  Nubia,  S.  Arabia,  and  other  sub-tropical  regions.  This 
tree  bears  the  genuine  apple  of  Sodom,  a  yellow,  apple-like  fruit,  described 
by  Josephus;  on  being  squeezed  it  bursts,  and  only  fibres  and  bits  of  the 
thin  rind  remain  in  the  hand.  Among  the  smaller  plants  the  nightshade 
(Solatium  melongena)  is  very  common.  —  By  the  spring,  and  to  the  E.  of 
it.  are  a  few  remains  of  old  buildings.  The  ancient  Engedi  probably  lay 
below  the  spring.  The  gradual  slope  towards  the  Dead  Sea  was  converted 
into  terraced  gardens. 


3.  Masada. 
From  Engedi  to  Masada,  41/2  hrs.  (water  should  be  taken).  —  We 
descend  from  the  spring  towards  the  S.  and  cross  the  (J/2hr.)  Wddi  el-'Areijeh 
at  the  ruins  of  Kasr  el-'Areijeh;  on  the  slopes  of  the  hill  are  vestiges  of 
ancient  vineyards.'  Masada  comes  in  sight  to  the  S.  We  next  reach 
(20  min.)  a  sulphur-laden  spring,  and  40  min.  later  we  cross  a  line  of  hills 
which  stretch  to  the  sea;  beyond  these  to  the  left  lies  the  Birkel  el-Khalil 
('Pool  of  Abraham"),  so  called  afier  a  Muslim  legend,  where  salt  is  obtained 
by  evaporation  from  the  water  of  the  Dead  Sea.  In  1/4  hr.  wore  we  cross 
the  Wddi  el-Khabra.  In  the  valley  and  in  the  littoral  plain  is  found  the 
so-called  Hose  of  Jericlto  (Anaslalica  Hierochuntica),  but  the  plant  is  neither 
a  rose,  nor  does  it  now  grow  near  Jericho.  It  is  a  low  annual  herb  of 
the  cruciferous  order,  soft  and  herbaceous  at  first,  but  whose  branches 
become  woody  with  age.  It  owes  its  name  anastatica  (the  arising)  to  a 
peculiarity  of  its  woody  branches,  springing  from  the  crown  of  the  root, 
which  are  curved  inwards  when  dry,  but  spread  out  horizontally  when 
the  plant  is  moistened.  This  phenomenon  has  given  rise  to  a  superstitious 
belief  in  the  virtues  of  the  plant,  and  it  is  accordingly  gathered  in  great 
quantities  and  sent  to  Jerusalem,  where  it  is  sold  to  pilgrims.  Another 
similar  plant  to  be  found  here  is  the  Asteriscus  aqualicus  which  was 
perhaps  considered  in  earlier  times  to  be  the  Rose  of  Jericho.  Wild  barley 
and  a  few  saline  plants  are  also  found  here.  The  chief  ol  these  is  the 
Salsola  kali,  Arabic  hubeibeh,  a  plant,  with  a  flat,  glossy,  reddish  stalk, 
and   small  glass-like  leaves,  which  the   Arabs   burn  in   order  to   obtain 


Judah, 


MASADA. 


20.  Route.    171 


alkali  (al-kah).  The  fauna  of  the  region  includes  the  mountain- goat  of 
Sinai,  and  also  the  cony  (Hyrax  Syriacus,  Arab,  wabr),  a  verv  curious 
little  animal  of  the  cloven-footed  family,  with  a  brown  coat.  The  flesh 
of  the  latter  is  much  esteemed,  but  it  was  forbidden  to  the  Israelites 
(Levit.  xi.  5),  though  as  a  matter  of  fact  the  hyrax  does  not  chew  the 
cud.    Sec  also  Psalms  civ.  18;  Prov.  xxx.  26. 

After  8/4hr.  we  reach  the  Wddi  Mahrat,  with  seyal-trees  (p   170)-  then 
(20  mm.)  the  Wddi  Khatheibeh;  (i/4  hr.)  'the  Wddi  es-Safdiif;  and  (25 'mi  11  ) 


vi^asfefe=ss 


SEBBEH;  (MASADA), 

iirJt.  ilc  Sau 

: -v.x 

a  ,'-Mi,(iii  u 


the  Wadi  Sei/dl.  In  10  min.  we  reach  the  opposite  height,  and  proceed 
direct  to  the  hill  of  Masada.  On  the  way  we  cross  several  deep  crevices 
l?J;he  clayey  soil>  and  in  40  min.  reach  the  foot  of  the  mountain  at  the 
N.E.  angle  of  the  Roman  enclosing  wall,  which  runs  entirely  round  the 
crown  of  the  hill.  Following  the  wall  to  the  S.,  we  come  in  20  min.  to 
the  Koman  fortifications  in  the  Wddi  es-Sebbeh  for  Wddi  d-IIafdf),  at  the 
8.  foot  of  the  hill.  The  ascent  to  the  top  may  be  made  in  about  1  hr. 
by  a  very  difficult  footpath. 

Bakdkkeu's  Palestine  and  Syria.   4th  Edit.  \[ 


172    Route  20. 


MASADA. 


Desert  of 


The  hill  of  Masada  (i.e.  a  mountain-stronghold;  1703ft.  above  the 
Dead  Sea),  now  called  ICs-Sebbeh,  is  stated  by  Josephus  (Bell.  Jud.  vii.  8,  3) 
to  have  been  fortified  by  Jonathan  the  Maccabsean.  It  was  re-fortified  by 
Herod  the  Great,  who  enclosed  the  whole  of  the  plateau  at  the  top  of  the 
hill  with  a  wall  constructed  of  white  stone,  seven  stadia  in  circumference, 
12  ells  high,  and  8  ells  thick,  and  furnished  with  37  towers  each  50  ells 
high.  He  also  built  a  strong  and  sumptuous  palace  on  the  W.  slope, 
with  four  comer-towers,  each  GO  ells  high.  Access  to  the  fortress  was 
very  difficult,  the  only  ascent  being  by  an  artificial  stair  called  'the 
serpent'  on  the  W.  side.  The  enclosed  space,  the  soil  of  which  was 
very  rich,  was  used  by  the  king  for  cultivation.  After  the  destruction  of 
Jerusalem,  the  Jews  still  offered  an  obstinate  resistance  to  the  Romans 
on  this  spot.  The  latter  under  Flavius  Silva  then  built  out  from  the 
rock  to  the  W.  of  the  castle  an  embankment  200  ells  in  height,  on  which 
they  brought  their  besieging  engines  close  to  the  wall.  The  defenders 
thereupon  erected  within  the  outer  wall  a  second  one  of  wood  and  earth, 
and  when  this  was  destroyed  by  fire,  they  slew  themselves  with  their 
wives  and  children,  rather  than  surrender. 

As  we  ascend  the  bill,  we  notice  several  remains  of  the  Roman  siege- 
wall.  In  l/z  hr.  we  reach  the  ruins  of  Roman  towers,  and  in  1/\  hr.  more 
cross  a  slope  of  loose  stones  which  formed  part  of  the  Roman  embankment. 
Through  a  well-preserved  mediaeval  gateway,  consisting  of  a  pointed  arch 
with  inscriptions  and  the  marks  of  Beduin  tribes ,  we  enter  upon  the 
spacious  plateau  on  the  summit  of  the  hill.  This  plateau  is  000  yds. 
long  and  200-250  yds.  wide,  and  is  surrounded  on  almost  every  side 
by  perpendicular  rocks.  Around  the  brink  of  the  precipice  runs  the 
enclosing  wall,  which  is  still  preserved  at  places.  The  other  remains 
are  not  extensive.  On  the  N.  side  of  the  hill  stands  a  square  tower;  and 
38  ft.  higher,  but  still  19  ft.  below  the  level  of  the  plateau,  rises  a  round 
tower.  From  the  N.  wall  branch  off  a  great  many  side-walls ,  which 
were  perhaps  built  during  the  last  siege  of  the  place.  To  the  W.  and 
S.  are  large  cisterns.  In  the  centre  of  the  plateau  are  the  remains  of  a 
building,  perhaps  a  Byzantine  chapel.  To  the  S.  of  the  chapel  is  a  tomb- 
cavern  with  an  inscription.  To  judge  from  the  remains,  it  would  seem  that 
Masada  was  still  inhabited  after  the  catastrophe  mentioned  above.  The 
archway  on  the  W.  side  looks  as  if  it  belonged  to  the  Crusaders'1  period. 
The  ruins  to  the  N.  and  W.  of  this  arch,  however,  seem  to  belong  to  the 
palace  of  Herod,  while  those  on  the  S.  side  of  the  plateau  are  now  a 
shapeless  mass.  —  The  View  of  the  wild  and  desolate  mountainous  region 
round  the  town  is  very  imposing.  Not  a  trace  of  a  human  habitation  is 
to  be  seen.  The  colouring  of  the  Dead  Sea  and  the  mountains,  except 
when  the  midday  heat  envelops  everything  in  a  white  haze,  is  singularly 
vivid,  and  we  obtain  almost  a  bird's-eye  view  of  the  S.  end  of  the  sea. 
Exactly  opposite  to  us  lies  the  pointed  promontory  of  El-Lisan  (p.  132) ; 
to  the  8,  the  eye  ranges  as  far  as  the  Jebel  Usdum,  and  opposite  rise 
Kerak  and  all  the  mountains  of  Moab.  Immediately  below  the  fortress  to 
the  S.E.,  as  well  as  on  a  low  chain  of  hills  to  the  W.,  the  camps  of  the 
Roman  besiegers  are  still  distinctly  traceable;  that  on  the  W.  was  Silva's. 

4.  Jebel  Usdum  and  El-Kerak. 
From  Masada  to  Jebel  Usdum,  about  6  hrs.  From  the  fortifications 
in  the  Wddi  et-Sebbeh  (p.  171)  the  route  leads  to  the  S.  along  the  upper 
edge  of  the  littoral  plain  of  the  Dead  Sea,  which  is  intersected  in  all 
directions  by  clefts  and  ravines.  After  about  tyshr.  the  large  Wddi  el-Hafdf 
opens  to  the  right,  leading  us  in  36  min.  to  the  sea.  Thence  we  turn  S. 
again  to  (50  min.)  the  Wddi  Rabad  el-Jdmfis,  with  tamarisk-thickets.  After 
l/rhn  we  reach  £hc  WdcU  c'.-Kedr.  The  coast-road  is  now  quitted.  .After 
crossing  a  hill,  our  route  lies  along  the  slope  of  the  mountain  to  the 
(50  min.)  Wddi  JIathrtira ;  hence  we  reach  in  20  min.  the  Wddi  JUubaghghak, 
with  the  ruined  medipeval  fort  of  the  same  name,  where  good  water  and 
a  convenient  camping-place  are  found.  There  are  two  reservoirs  here, 
which  were   once  fed  by  a  conduit  from  the  mountains.  —  Following  the 


Judah. 


JEBEL  USDUM. 


20.  Route. 


173 


shore  wo  come  in  IV4  hr.  to  the  Wddi  ez-Zuweira,  through  which  runs  the 
road  from  Hebron.  The  littoral  plain  gradually  broadens.  —  Ihe  road  to 
the  Wddi  Nukhbdr  (see  below)  runs  in  a  straight  line  to  the  S.  through  the 
Wddi  H-MvhavwiH ;  1he  N.  summit  of  the  Jebel  Usdum  is  reached  to  Ihe 
S.W.  i:i  20  minutes.  The  route  along  the  E.  side  of  the  mountain  has  become 
impracticable  owing  to  the  rise  in  the  level  of  the  waters  of  the  Dead 
Sea.  The  pillar  of  salt  which  passed  for  that  into  which  Lot's  wife  was 
changed  (see  below)  has  fallen  into  the  water.  Nevertheless,  it  is  perhaps 
worth  while  to  ride  for  a  short  distance  along  the  E.  side  of  the  mountain, 
as  far  as  a  little  cavern  rich  in  salt  crystals.  The  whole  of  the  S.  bay  of 
the  Dead  Sea  is  shallow  (0-13  ft.). 

The  name  of  Jebel  or  Khashm  Usdum  echoes  that  of  the  Biblical 
Sodom  (Gen.  xviii,  xix),  though  it  is  probable  that  this  is  due  to  artificial 
revival  rather  than  ancient  tradition.  It  is  an  isolated  hill,  about  7  M. 
in  length,  the  highest  point  of  which  is  about  590ft.  above  the  level  of 
the  Dead  Sea.  The  sides  are  so  steep  and  crevassed  that  it  is  difficult  to 
ascend  it.  The  base  of  the  hill,  up  to  about  100  or  150  ft.,  consists  of  pure 
crystallized  salt,  which  is  seamed  with  perpendicular  fissures.  These, 
under  the  inlluence  of  the  weather,  frequently  give  rise  to  needle-rocks, 
columns,  etc.,  in  which  the  popular  imagination  recognizes  human  beings 
turned  to  stone.  Thus  probably  arose  the  tradition  of  the  transformation 
of  hot's  wife  into  a  pillar  of  salt  (Gen.  xix.  26;  Wisdom  x.  7),  which 
Josephus  says  was  to  be  seen  in  his  days.  The  salt  is  covered  with  a 
layer,  400-450  ft.  thick,  of  chalky  limestone  and  clay.  The  present  con- 
dition of  the  salt-deposit  is  due  to  some  convulsion  of  nature;  formerly  it 
was  much  more  extensive,  reaching  perhaps  as  far  as  the  peninsula  of 
JM-Lisan,  where   nick-salt  was   also   found  (comp.  ZDPV.  xix.  32  et  seq.). 

FitoM  Jebel  Usdum  to  El-Kehak,  15  hrs.  From  the  N.  point  of  the 
mountain  we  ride  along  its  W.  side,  and  in  x\i  hr.  reach  the  end  of  the 
littoral  plain  and  the  entrance  of  the  Wddi  Nvkhbdr,  forming  a  deep  de- 
pression in  the  marly  soil.  After  3/4hr.  the  valley  contracts  to  the  dimensions 
of  a  narrow  and  winding  gorge,  with  almost  vertical  walls.  In  tyj  hr.  we 
reach  the  surface  of  the  stratum  of  marl,  and  now  ride  to  the  S.  through 
the  'Arabu  (p.  175).  After  40  min.  we  descend  into  the  O/4  hr.)  Wddi  el-Am'dz, 
which  we  follow  for  10  min.  to  the  point  where  it  debouches  into  the 
Sebkha,  the  marshy  depression  at,  the  S.  end  of  the  Dead  Sea.  This  district 
is  inundated  at  flood-time,  but  when  the  water  is  low  it  is  possible  to 
cross  it  In  a  due  E.  direction  to  (2  hrs.)  Es-Sdfiyeh,  a  wretched  collection 
of  reed  huts  in  the  Ghdr  es-Sdjiyeh.  When  the  water  is  high,  we  are 
obliged  to  make  a  detour  to  the  8.,  past  El-Feifeh  (in  the  S.E.  corner  of 
the  Sebkha),  about  4'/2  hrs.  from  the  beginning  of  the  Sebkba;  thence  to 
the  Qh6r  es-Sdjiyeh  in  2  hrs.  In  addition  to  the  reeds  we  observe  the  r0shr 
tree  (p.  170)   and   the  Salvadora  Persica,   a  tree  averaging  25  ft.  in  height. 

After  D/2  hr.  we  reach  the  plain  of  El-Mel&ha,  with  a  brook,  and  in 
40  min.  the  mouth  of  the  Wddi  Guweyyeh.  In  ljt  hr.  we  leave  the  plain  of 
Kl-JIeluha,  and  in  '/2  hr.  reach  the  promontory  near  the  Wddi  Khesldn. 
After  1/4"  hr.  we  reach  the  heap  of  stones  (rujtim)  marking  the  tomb  of 
the  Sheikh  Sdlih,  whom  the  Beduins  invoke  to  aid  them  in  their  predatory 
expeditions.  In  13  min.  we  reach  the  Wddi  en-Ntfmeira;  in  48  min., 
El-Muraksed ;  in  14  min.,  the  Wddi  Berej  on  our  right.  After  '/2  hr.  we 
reach  cultivated  land.  We  then  come  to  the  Wddi  ed-Derd'a,  or  Wddi 
el-Kerak,  which  frequently  contains  water.  Some  ruins  here  are  popularly 
called  sugar-mills,  and  in  the  beautiful  and  extensive  oasis  of  El-Mezra'a 
adjoining  them  are  encampments  of  Ghdr  Arabs.  The  peninsula  itself 
Is  a  flat,  clayey  plain,  about  100  ft.  in  height,  and  without  a  vestige  of  life. 

The  path  now  ascends  the  wild  and  grand  Wddi  el-Kerak  to  the  pla- 
teau of  Derd'a  (55  min.);  after  52  min.  we  reach  a  cultivated  plain.  In 
It  min.  we  have  Tell  ed-Derd'a  on  our  right;  in  9  min.  more  we  cross 
the  beautiful  brook  Seil  ed-Derd'a.  Continuing  to  ascend  the  Wadi  el- 
Kerak,  in  3'/2  hrs.  we  reach  the  spring  'Ain  es-Sakka.  In  another  hour 
we  find  ourselves  below  El-Kerak,  and  after  35  min.  more  of  steep  climb- 
ing we  reach  the  N.E.  corner  of  the  town  of  El-Kerak  (p.  149). 

11* 


174 


21.  Petra. 


This  expedition  fakes  at  least  5  days  from  Jerusalem  (there  and  back  12) 
without  counting  the  days  of  rest  (see  below).  The  charges  for  dragoman, 
horses,  and  tents  will  amount  to  20-30  per  cent,  more  than  those  mentioned 
at  p.  xi.  The  contract  should  expressly  bind  the  dragoman  himself  to  pay 
all  the  costs  of  the  necessary  escort  and  guides. 

Litkkatuhe.  'Die  Provincia  Arabia',  by  R.  E.  Briinnow  and  Alfr.  von  Do- 
maszewski  (Strassburg,  1904-1906),  three  large  volumes  with  many  illustrations, 
maps,  plans,  etc.;  "The  Jordan  Valley  and  Petra'  by  W.  Libbey  and  Franklin 
E.  Hoskins  (two  volumes;  New  York  &  London,  1905);  'Voyage  de  V Arable 
Petree',  par  Lion  de  Laborde  et  Linant  (Paris,  1830);  'Voyage  d'exploration 
a  la  Mer  Morte,  a  Petra,  etc.'',  by  the  Due  de  Luynes  (Paris);  and  Palmer s 
•Desert  of  the  Exodus'  (Cambridge,  1871). 


From  Jerusalem  to  Petra. 

1.  Via  Ei.-?.Ia'an  and  the  Hkjaz  Railway.  This  route,  which  is  more 
suitable  for  the  return -journey  is  the  easiest  but  the  least  interesting. 
Hiding-animals  and  tents  may  be  obtained  in  El-Macan  through  application 
to  Ihe  tourist-oftices  in  Jerusalem;  the  former  can  always  be  hired  for 
the  return-journey  in  'Amman.  —  From  Jerusalem  to  Es-Salt  (2  days),  see 
P.  16  (if  desired,  a  carriage  may  be  taken  as  far  as  the  bridge  of  Jericho, 
p.  136);  thence  to  'Ammdii  (5  hrs.),  see  pp.  136, 144.  The  trains  leave  'Amman 
for  El  Ma' an  3-4  times  a  week  (see  p.  151).  —  From  El-Maran  to  Petra,  5  hrs. 
The  route  leads  towards  ihe  W.,  through  the  S.  part  of  the  town,  and 
crosses  the  0/4  hr.)  Wddi  esh-Shdmtya,  which  in  its  upper  part  is  called 
Wddi  es-Semneh.  Following  the  valley,  we  reach  after  20  min.  the  ruins 
of  an  aqueduct.  The  country  partakes  of  the  nature  of  a  desert;  the 
marly  foil  is  covered  with  small  Hints  and  is  destitute  of  vegetation. 
After  3/4  hr.  we  cross  the  Wddi  el-Bastu.  The  first  signs  of  vegetation  are 
observed  here,  though  the  district  maintains  its  monotonous  character.  In 
2  hrs.  we  reach  a  heap  of  ruins  called  Rujm  el-Beiddn.  We  now  cross  the 
road  from  Et-Tafileh  to  'Akaba,  and  continue  in  a  N.W.  direction  to 
(1  hr.)  the  W.  border  of  the  plain.  From  the  opening  of  the  Wddi  Fat* a  we 
descend  in  l/>  hr.  to  the  spring  of  the  same  name,  and  in  another  40  min. 
reach  the  village  of  Elji,  called  by  the  Beduins  Wddi  Musd.  The  Beduin 
inhabitants  spend  the  summer  in  tents.  There  are  some  pretty  gardens. 
Opposite  rise  the  mountains  of  Petra,  culminating  in  the  Jebel  Harun 
(p.  183).  From  this  point  we  descend  the  Wddi  Musd,  or  main  valley,  to 
O/4  hr.)  the  first  tombs,  where  the  stream  has  worn  its  way  through  a  low 
ridge  of  white  sandstone.  The  district  from  here  to  the  entrance  of  the 
Sik  (p.  178)  is  known  as  the  Bdb  es-Sik  (eate  of  the  Sik).  In  5  min.  we 
observe,  on  the  other  (right)  side  of  the  stream,  on  a  hill,  a  Tomb  with  a 
Portico  on  either  side.  The  only  other  tomb  thus  embellished  is  the  Tomb 
with  the  Urn  (p.  180).  In  5  min.  more  we  reach  a  terrace  on  the  bank 
of  the  stream,  with  three  Isolated  Pylons,  opposite  some  tombs  on  the  other 
side;  farther  on  we  see  to  the  left  a  Roman  Sanctuary,  the  facade  of  which 
has  six  engaged  columns  and  an  interrupted  pediment.  The  portal  is 
surmounted  by  an  arch.  Immediately  above  stands  the  Tomb  with  the 
Obelisks  (4),  so  called  from  the  embellishments  of  its  facade.  Both  tomb 
and  sanctuary  belong  to  the  late-Rom;m  period.  —  Hence  we  reach  in  5  min. 
the  entrance  of  the  Sik  proper  (p.  178),  where  the  red  sandstone  first 
makes  its  appearance.  After  22  min.  we  come  to  El-Khazneh  (p.  178),  and  in 
10  min.  more  to  the  Theatre  (p.  179).    This  is  the  best  spot  to  pitch  camp. 

2.  Via  the  Jkbei.  Usdum.  To  the  Jebel  Usdum  and  the  entrance  of 
the  Seokha,  see  If.  20.  Hence  to  Pelra,  ca.  18  hrs.  Cam])  may  be  pitched 
for  the  night  at  the  springs  of  'Ain  el-' Arils  and  'Ain  el-Buweirideh.  —  The 
route  lies  along  the  border  of  the  Sebkha  (p.  173),  first  in  a  S.  and  then 
in  a  S.E.  direction.  The  water-worn  hills.  50-100  ft.  in  height,  which  the 
track  follows,  consist  of  chalk.  In  2  hrs.  the  road  reaches  the  spring  'Ain 
el-'Arils.     After    '/<  hr.  we    cross    the    Wddi  el-Kuseib,    and   later   two   more 


FromBrimnow*8  Provincia  AraMa  Vol.!. 

>£  V>  *»v„  i :  100000  1 


YTagnBT  *npli«;;  l.eip' 


ET-TAFILEH. 


21.  Route. 


175 


valleys.  In  3/<  'lr-  we  reach  the  large  Wddi  el-Jib,  the  stream  of  which 
drains  the  'Araba.  An  ascent  of  3  hrs.  through  this  valley  brings  us  to 
the  undulating  'Araba,  an  extensive  desert,  with  a  few  scattered  shrubs 
(ghada).  The  soil  consists  of  loose  gravel  and  stones  ;  the  only  green  spots 
are  near  springs  (towards  the  W.  'Ain  el-  Weibeh,  to  the  N.  'Ain  el-Qhuweireh). 
After  2  hrs.  40  min.  the  Wddi  el-Buweirideh  is  reached.  In  1  hr.  40  min., 
springs  with  vegetation.  The  route  now  crosses  the  'Araba  towards  the  E. 
The  watershed  which  here  intersects  the  valley  is  at  its  lowest  point  S20  ft. 
above  the  level  of  the  Mediterranean  (comp.  p.  132).  The  valley,  which 
is  now  a  dreary  wilderness,  doubtless  served  as  a  route  for  traffic  at  the 
period  when  the  ancient  town  of  Ezion-Gcber,  near  the  present  'Akaba 
(p.  209),  was  the  principal  seat  of  the  maritime  trade  of  the  Edoniites 
and  Israelites.  After  3  hrs.  the  road  has  crossed  the  valley  of  the  'Araba, 
ascending  towards  the  S.E.  The  heaps  of  stones  here  are  piled  up  by  the 
Beduins, who  slaughter  sheep  in  honour  of  Aaron's  memory,  within  sight  of 
his  tomb  on  Jebel  Haruii  (p.  183),  and  conceal  the  blood  of  the  slaughtered 
animal  under  these  stones.  Farther  on  the  road  threads  its  way  through 
the  winding  Wddi  Rubd'i,  passing  round  Mt.  Hor  on  the  S.  This  valley  is 
flanked  with  hills  of  sandstone  and  chalky  limestone,  and  contains  several 
caverns.  At  the  bottom  of  the  valley  grow  the  caper  shrub  and  a  magni- 
ficent 'nrobanche',  with  large  yellow  and  blue  flowers.  From  the  end  of 
the  'Araba  the  N.W.  limit  of  Petra  can  be  reached  in  ca.  3  hrs. 

3.  Via  El-Kerak.  To  El-Kerak,  see  H.  20.  Thence  to  Pelra,  3  days 
(ca.  26  hrs.).  —  1st  Day  (9-10  hrs.).  From  the  castle  of  El-Kerak  we  de- 
scend into  Ihe  Wddi  es-Sitl  and  reach  (9  min.)  the  spring  of  'Ain  ex-Silt. 
After  1J2  hr.  we  arrive  at  the  edge  of  the  plateau  and  in  10  min.  more  come 
to  El-Juba,  a  ruined  village  to  the  right,  followed  by  three  other  different 
ruins  of  the  same  name.  l/>  hr.,  on  a  hill  to  fhe  right,  the  large  ruined 
village  of  El-Mehna.  We  continue  to  cross  the  plain  to  the  S.;  '/i  hr.,  the 
ruined  villages  of  Enjdsa,  one  on  each  side  of  the  track;  17  min.,  ruins 
of  El-Mdteh,  still  partly  inhabited;  40  min.,  Jafar,  on  the  right,  a  weli 
and  mosque  of  the  saint  of  that  name.  We  now  traverse  the  fruitful  plain 
of  El-'Amdka  to  the  S.E.,  with  the  ruins  of  that  name  to  the  right,  and 
in  40  min.  reach  the  Wddi  et-Teleika.  After  a  descent  of  40  min.  we  again 
ascend,  at  a  point  where  the  valley  makes  a  bend  to  the  S.W.  We  now 
arrive  at  the  edge  of  the  Wddi  el-IIasd,  whence  a  magnificent  view  is  ob- 
tained of  the  deep  valley  and  the  country  to  the  S.,  which  as  far  as  Dana 
(p.  176)  forms  the  district  of  El-Jebdl  (Gebalene).  After  a  steep  descent  of  1  hr. 
5  min.  we  ascend  a  lateral  valley  on  the  opposite  side,  cross  (25  min.)  a 
ridge,  and  descend  again  to  the  S.  in  10  min.  into  the  great  Wddi  eth-T/iemed, 
a  lateral  valley  of  the  Wadi  el-HaSa.  We  ascend  its  E.  side  to  the  (35  min.) 
plateau,  where  we  turn  to  the  S.W. ;  in  20  min.  we  see  the  rude  stone 
tower  of  Rujm  el-Kerak,  and  17  min.  later,  to  the  left,  the  ruined  village 
of  El-Mishmdl,  with  a  watch-tower.  In  20  min.  we  reach  the  slope  of  the 
Wddi  et-Tafileh.  Crossing  the  (85  min.)  stream,  we  next  arrive  at  (20  min.) 
the  village  of  Et-Tafileh,  which  has  about  700  houses  and  9000  inhab. 
(Beduins).  Et-Tafileh,  as  the  capital  of  the  district  of  Jebdl,  is  the  seat 
of  a  Kaiminakani  and  has  a  garrison  of  350  infantry  and  50  khayydls,  or 
mounted  gendarmes.  The  Serai  is  new.  The  well-watered  environs  abound 
in  groves  of  figs  and  olives.  The  traders  come  from  Hebron,  and  have 
large  depots  here  for  their  traffic  with  the  Beduins  who  pitch  their  tents 
farther  to  the  S. 

2nd  Day.  To  Shdbek,  8-9  hrs.  From  Et-Tafileh  we  descend  to  the  S. 
through  a  well-watered  region  to  the  (i/«'hr.)  spring  of  'Ain  et-Tafileh. 
We  1hen  follow  the  (3/4  hr.)  Wddi  el-Ahbal  to  the  spring  of  'Ain  es-Sahweh. 
We  continue  to  the  S.  along  the  edge  of  the  hills  to  the  'Araba,  "and  in 
3/i  hr.  more  reach  th&'Ain  el-Beida.  All  the  wadis  open  into  one  large  and 
deep  valley,  the  Wddi  Buseira,  down  which  the  eye  is  now  attracted.  The 
village  of  Buseira  or  Little  Bosrd  (Bozrah,  Gen.  xxxvi.  33;  Jer.  xlix.  13; 
Amos  i.  12;  a  capital  of  lha  Edomites),  with  important  ruins,  is  situated 
on  a  ridge  on  the  S.  side  of  the  vallev.  Thence  we  proceed  to  the  S.E. 
to  (l/i  hr.)  the  spring  of  'Ain  es-Sa'ii.  (5  min.)  the  ruined  village  of  Khirbel 
es-Sa'u,  and  (>/*  hr.)  Kldrbet  el-lludeifeh,  with  a  weli  of  the  saint.    We  now 


176    Route  21. 


SHOBKK. 


From  Jerusalem 


descend  to  the  S.E.  into  the  (3/4  hr.)  Wddi  Gharandel,  at  the  extreme  S. 
edge  of  which  lie  the  ruins  of  the  town  of  Gharandel  (the  ancient  episcopal 
town  of  Arindela),  with  a  church  with  engaged  columns  and  drums.  We 
now  ascend  to  the.  S.W.  to  (35  min.)  the  extensive  ruins  of  El-Muhezzet, 
with  a  church.  Beyond  this  we  skirt  the  W.  side  of  Ihe  Jebel  Dana 
(5336  ft.),  the  ascent  of  which  ('/.ihr.)  jg  recommended  for  the  fine  view 
it  commands  of  the  Wddi  Dana  (with  the  village  of  that  name)  and  the 
rAraba.  We  next  follow  a  Roman  road  to  the  S.E.  to  the  (3/4  hr.)  springs 
of  Biydr  es-Seb'a,  whence  we  descend  in  59  min.  into  the  Wddi  el-Ghuweir. 
We  ascend  the  other  side  of  this  valley  for  5  min.  to  the  plain,  which 
stretches  as  far  as  the  eye  can  reach  to  the  E.  and  8.,  to  lose  itself  at 
last  in  the  Syro-Arabian  desert.  The  W.  portion  of  this  plain  is  fruitful 
and  cultivated.  We  continue  along  the  Roman  road  to  the  S.  to  (ltyi  hr.) 
Ed-Ddsak,  a  caravanserai  of  Saracen  times,  on  the  S.  slope  of  the  Wddi 
en-A'ejl.  We  now  ascend  the  valley  for  50  min.  lo  'Ain  Nejl  (see  below), 
where  the  camp  may  be  pitched.  The  traveller  is,  however,  advi  ed  to 
make  a  small  detour  of  1  hr.  across  the  plain  to  the  W.  of  Ed-D6sak  in 
which  case  his  camping-place  would  lie  to  the  S.E.  of  the  hill  of  Shobek. 

Shobek,  a  fortified  village  siluated  upon  an  isolated  hill,  is  the  chief 
place  in  the  district  of  Esh-Sherd,  the  government  being  represented  by 
an  officer  and  20  Circassian  cavalry.  The  Beduin  inhabitants  live  mostly 
in  tents  in  a  state  of  poverty.  Here  Baldwin  I.  erected  the  castle  called 
Mons  Rcgalis.  The  present  castle  is  of  Arabian  origin;  and  there  are  also 
remains  of  an  ancient  church.  A  subterranean  passage  (375  steps)  leads 
from  the  interior  of  the  castle  to  the  well. 

3rd  1'ay  (7-8  hrs.).  Ascending  the  valley  to  the  E.  of  Shobek,  we  turn 
to  the  S.W.  into  the  Wddi  en-Nejl,  with  the  ruins  of  the  ancient  Negla, 
which  extend  as  far  as  the  spring  of  'Ain  Nejl,  35  min.  from  Shobek.  We 
continue  to  ascend  the  valley  towards  the  S.,  following  a  Roman  road 
which  in  places  is  well  preserved  and  is  flanked  with  the  remains  of 
watch-towers.  We  reach  the  plain  in  50  min.,  and  '/•*  hr.  later  descend 
again  (to  the  S.)  into  a  wadi,  up  which  we  now  ride  for  l1/*  hr.  On  all 
sides  we  see  numbers  of  fine  oak-trees.  Crossing  a  ridge  with  the  ruins 
of  a  watch-tower  on  the  right,  we  descend  for  7*  hr.  and  then  ascend 
the  S.  side  of  the  valley,  at  the  point  where  it  makes  a  bend  to  the  E., 
to  the  (10  min.)  spring  of  'Ain  el-Mikican,  in  the  little  valley  of  that  name. 
After  12  min.  the  head  of  the  Wddi  el-'Arjd  is  crossed,  and  we  ascend  a 
ridge  to  the  S.  From  its  summit  (35  min.;  4975  ft.)  a  fine  view  is  obtained 
of  the  Wadi  Miisa,  the  village  of  Elji  (p.  174)  on  the  other  side,  and  the 
mountains  of  Petra.  After  a  descent  of  1  hr.  we  cross  the  bed  of  the 
Wddi  Mdsd,  and  ascend  its  left  side.  After  i/i  hr.  we  observe  above,  on 
the  right,  the  Tomb  with  the  Porticoes  (p.  174),  and  10  min.  later  reach  the 
entrance  of  the  Sik  (p.  178). 

Petra  is  situated  on  a  terrace  on  the  W.  slope  of  the  high  plateau 
which  extends  from  the  Wddi  Nemeila  on  the  N,  to  the  Wddi  Sabra 
on  the  S.  This  terrace  is  intersected  from  E.  to  W.  by  the  Wddi 
MusCi,  the  stream  of  which  runs  in  so  deep  a  channel  that  both 
banks  (N.  and  S.)  are  raised  considerably  above  the  surface  of  the 
water.  The  terrace  is  enclosed  on  the  E.  and  W.  by  two  ridges  of 
red  sandstone  stretching  N.  and  S.,  in  which  the  river  has  worn  away 
deep  gorges  (Es-Sik).  The  W.  Sik,  from  which  the  water  descends 
in  cascades  into  the  rAraba,  is  accessible  only  in  its  upper  part; 
that  to  the  E.,  on  the  other  hand,  forms  the  principal  approach  to 
the  town  (p.  178).  The  two  Siks  divide  the  rock-walls  into  four 
different  and  distinct  blocks.  That  to  the  N.E.,  known  as  El-Khubzeh, 
is  a  compact  mass  of  rock  towards  the  W.,  while  the  S.E.  half  is 
cross-sectioned  by  various  ravines.    The  principal  summit  of  the 


D'apres  Brurouw,  Prcrvincia  Arabia 


Grave  t-t  imprimi  pai'  Wugiu?riDf\)*3,Leipii4- 


to  Pelra. 


PETRA. 


21.  Route. 


177 


latter,  named  En-Nejr,  is  crowned  by  the  large  place  of  worship 
mentioned  at  p.  183.  Similarly,  the  N.  half  of  the  W.  ridge  (with 
the  Deir,  p.  182)  is  cut  up  into  deep  gorges,  while  in  the  S.  half 
towers  the  imposing  mass  of  El-Habis,  with  the  smaller  Hill  of  the 
Acropolis  opposite  it  to  the  N.E. 

A  guide  from  Elji  (p.  174;  1  mej.  per  day)  is  indispensable  for 
a  Visit  to  the  Ruins  of  Petra,  and  for  making  excursions  in  the 
neighbourhood.  —  Travellers  are  particularly  warned  against  the 
extortionate  prices  demanded  by  the  sheikh  of  Elji. 

Histobt.  It  is  generally  believed  that  Sela'  (2  Kings  xiv.  7)  is  the 
ancient  Hebraic  form  of  the  Greek  name  Peira  (both  words  signify  'rock'). 
The  text  of  the  passage,  however,  would  lead  us  to  suppose  that  Sela'  had 
another  site.  Neither  the  original  name  nor  the  primitive  history  of  Petra 
is  known.  The  most  ancient  tombs  would  seem  to  date  back  to  the  6th 
cent.  B.C.  The  Nalmtaeans,  who  succeeded  the  Edomites  in  this  part  of 
the  country,  are  mentioned  for  the  first  time  about  312  B.C.,  when  Anti- 
gonus  unsuccessfully  attempted  the  conquest  of  them  and  their  capital, 
Petra,  first  with  an  army  under  Athcneeus,  and  later  with  a  second  under 
Demetrius.  At  that  time  the  town  was  still  of  small  dimensions  and  pro- 
bably Jay  for  the  most  part  round  the  place  of  worship  on  the  hill  of 
En-Nejr,  where  also  the  oldest  tombs  have  been  found  (see  below);  in 
any  case  few  buildings  could  have  stood  in  the  valley.  Petra  first  obtained 
importance  through  its  almost  inaccessible  position  (p.  176),  which  made 
it  easy  of  defence  against  the  attacks  of  the  desert  tribes,  and  rendered  it 
a  suitable  depot  for  the  caravan-trade  of  the  Nabatseans,  situated  as  it  was 
on  the  routes  from  the  Red  Sea  and  Egypt  to  Gaza,  Damascus,  and  Pal- 
myra. Ihe  first  Nabateean  ruler  of  whom  history  makes  mention  is  Aretas  I. 
(2  Mace.  v.  8).  As  far  back  as  the  time  of  the  earliest  Maccabees  the  sway 
of  the  Nabatseans  extended  to  the  country  E.  of  Jordan,  but  with  the 
decline  of  the  empire  of  the  Ptolemies  and  the  Seleucidre  at  the  end  of  the 
2nd  cent.  B.C.  their  dominion  increased.  Under  Aretas  III.,  'the  Philhellene1 
(friend  of  the  Greeks),  about  85  B.C.,  their  rule  extended  to  Damascus; 
the  surname  of  this  monarch  shows  that  Grecian  culture  had  then  already 
obtained  a  firm  foothold  in  Nabatnan  territory,  which  is  also  evidenced  by 
the  many  sepulchral  monuments  and  tombs  with  Grecian  characteristics 
(p.  178).  It  was  under  this  king  that  the  first  collisions  took  place  with  the 
Romans;  tribute  was  paid  to  Pompey  and  at  later  dates,  and  the  Nabatseans 
were  even  from  time  to  time  compelled  to  furnish  Rome  with  auxiliary 
troops.  On  the  whole,  however,  they  remained  free  and  powerful,  and 
under  Aretas  IV.  they  even  regained  possession  of  Damascus  (2  Cor.  xi.  32). 
In  106  A.D.  Petra  with  all  its  territory  (;.  e.  Arabia  Petraa)  was  reduced  to 
the  condition  of  a  Roman  province.  Trajan  thereupon  constructed  a  great 
road  connecting  Syria  with  the  Red  Sea.  Petra  itself  attained  to  a  very 
high  decree  of  prosperity  under  Roman  rule,  as  is  evidenced  by  the  still 
existing  Roman  buildings.  Its  decline  dates  only  from  the  close  of  the 
3rd  cent,  of  the  Christian  era,  and  was  influenced  by  the  rise  of  the  new 
Persian  empire  and  of  Palmyra  but  more  especially  by  the  fact  that  the 
Persians  succeeded  in  diverting  commerce  from  its  old  channels  and  turning 
it  towards  the  Euphrates  and  the  Persian  Gulf.  In  ca.  358  Petra  became 
an  independent  province  under  the  name  of  'Paltrstina  Tertia'  or 'Palsestina 
Salutaris".  The  town  had  already  ceased  to  be  of  any  consequence  at  the  time 
of  the  Arab  conquest.  The  Crusaders  believed  the  neighbouring  Jebel 
Hdrtin  (p.  183)  to  be  Mount  Sinai,  and  constructed  a  fortress  on  the  summit 
of  the  holy  mountain.  Prom  this  time  the  name  of  the  town  disappears 
entirely  from  history  until  it  was  rediscovered  by  some  travellers  at  the 
beginning  of  the  19th  century.  The  town  and  the  ruins  are  now  rJiftlik\ 
or  private  property  of  the  Sultan. 

Of  the  ruins,  the  Ton^t,  more  than  750  in  number,  are  the  most  im- 
portant.   They  are  hewn  out  of  the  rock-walls  on  every  side  of  the  town; 


178    Eoute2l. 


PETKA. 


History. 


the  most  ancient  are  found  on  the  slope  of  the  sacred  hill  of  En-Nejr  (p.  183). 
They  are  imitations  of  the  rude  brick  buiMings  with  sloping  walls  in 
which  the  old  >Tabatfran  inhabitants  of  Petra  used  to  live,  and  are  in  the 
form  of  pylons  battering  towards  the  top.  Above  the  door  is  a  simple  lintel, 
and  higher  up  are  bands  or  rows  of  small  stepped  pinnacles.  In  some 
cases  the  facade  alone  projects  from  the  face  of  the  rock,  in  others  the 
whole  pylon  is  detached  on  three  sides;  completely  detached  pylons  are 
rare.  At  a  later  period  the  portals  were  embellished  with  a  gable  or  an 
architrave,  while  the  rows  of  pinnacles  were  doubled,  or  two  half-pinnacles 
only  were  retained  (one  at  each  end),  but  so  enlarged  as  to  occupy  the  whole 
space  and  to  produce  the  effect  of  steps  (like  the  crow-steps  of  a  gable). 
Later  still  we  recognize  the  influence  of  Grecian  art  in  the  corner-pilasters, 
and  a  double  architrave  enclosing  an  attic.  This  is  the  most  highly  de- 
veloped form  of  Nabatcean  tomb,  dating,  as  is  witnessed  by  the  tombs  in 
El-Hejr  (in  N.  Arabia),  from  the  final  years  of  the  independence  of  the 
state  (comp.  p.  17?).  The  influence  of  Egyptian  art  at  the  same  period  is 
traceable  in  the  cavetto,  as  is  that  of  Syrian  art  in  the 'arched  tombs',  the 
upper  part  of  which  is  in  the  form  of  a  round  arch.  Under  the  Romans 
the  column  was  introduced,  and  the  Eoman  tombs,  however  they  may 
vary  in  other  respects,  all  have  the  characteristic  temple- faiade. 

A  visit  to  the  tombs  is  best  begun  at  the  entrance  to  the  East  Sik 
(for  the  tombs  in  the  Bab  es-Stk,  see  p.  174).  The  rook-walls  which 
rise  perpendicularly  on  both  sides  of  the  gorge  vary  in  height  from 
100  to  165  ft.;  the  passage  itself  is  from  10  to  30  ft.  broad.  This 
was  also  the  Roman  highroad,  fragments  of  the  paving  of  which  are 
still  to  be  seen  in  the  ground;  the  stream,  too,  at  that  period  was 
vaulted  over.  Here  and  there,  at  the  narrowest  points,  the  road  has 
been  widened  by  cutting  away  the  foot  of  the  rock.  In  order  to 
divert  the  overflow  of  the  stream  in  flood-time,  the  Nabataeans  had 
driveu  through  the  rock  a  tunnel  164/2  ft.  broad,  19*/2  ft.  high,  and 
330  ft.  long.  This  tunnel  entered  the  rock  to  the  N.  of  the  entrance 
to  the  Sik  and  carried  off  the  surplus  water  by  a  steep  descent  into 
a  neighbouring  ravine.  Immediately  on  entering  the  Sik,  we  see, 
at  a  height  of  ca.  50  ft.,  the  Remains  of  an  Arch,  which  was  thrown 
for  decorative  effect,  across  the  gorge  and  formed  the  grand  portal 
of  Petra.  The  niches  underneath  this  arch  formerly  contained  statues; 
we  still  see  here  and  there  altar-niches  and  votive  tablets  in  the 
rock,  as  well  as  remains  of  the  conduit  for  the  clay  pipes  supplying 
the  town  with  drinking-water. 

About  20  min.  from  the  entrance  to  the  Sik,  at  the  point  where 
two  lateral  clefts  enter  the  chasm  to  the  right  and  left,  we  suddenly 
see  before  us  one  of  the  most  interesting  architectural  monuments 
of  Petra,  called  by  the  people  El-Khazneh  ('the  treasury').  It  is  a 
temple  of  Isis,  most  probably  erected  by  the  Emperor  Hadrian,  who 
visited  the  town  in  131  A.D. 

With  the  exception  of  the  two  central  columns  of  the  portico,  the 
entire  edifice  is  hewn  out  of  the  living  rock.  The  ell'ect  of  the  fa;ade, 
which  has  two  stories  and  is  about  65  ft.  in  height,  is  enhanced  by  the 
ruddy  hue  of  the  stone.  The  lower  story  is  embellished  with  a  portico 
resting  on  six  Corinthian  columns;  capitals,  cornice,  and  pediment  all 
show  careful  workmanship.  Above  the  pediment,  just  below  the  central 
figure  of  the  upper  story,  is  a  solar  disc  between  two  horns,  tbe  'vell- 
known  symbol  of  Isis.  At  the  corners,  above  the  frieze,  are  seated  sphiixes. 
"The  figures  to  the  right  and  left  of  the  entrance  (each  representing  a  man 


Theatre. 


PETB  \. 


21.  Route.    179 


leading  a  horse),  as  well  as  those  of  the  upper  story,  have  been  intentionally 
destroyed.  Six  more  Corinthian-like  columns  adorn  the  upper  story;  the 
two  outer  ones  at  each  side  bear  richly  decorated  frie/.es  and  pediments. 
In  the  middle,  interrupting  the  pediments,  is  a  largo  and  deep  recess, 
containing  a  kind  of  cylinder,  or  lantern  of  circular  form,  surrounded 
by  columns.  On  the  pointed  conical  top  rests  an  urn,  which  the  Beduins 
believe  to  contain  the  treasure  of  Pharaoh.  In  front  of  this  cylinder, 
between  the  two  central  columns,  stands  Isis  bearing  a  horn  of  plenty; 
this  central  figure  is  unfortunately  much  damaged  and  almo<t  unrecogni- 
zable. To  the  right  and  left,  between  the  columns,  arc  niches  containing 
figures  resembling  Amazons.  A  richly  decorated  door  leads  from  the 
portico  into  a  principal  room,  ca.  101)  sq.  ft.  in  area,  and  devoid  of  orna- 
mentation.    This  is  aljoined  by  three  smaller  chambers. 

Continuing  on  our  way  through  the  Sik,  we  soon  arrive  at  a 
Hall  of  Assembly  (or  Sanctuary;  36  ft.  long  by  291/,2  ft-  broad), 
with  benches  running  round  the  walls.  We  enter  by  a  staircase 
cut  in  the  rock.  —  Farther  on,  to  the  left,  are  two  altar- niches. 

At  the  end  of  the  Sik  we  find,  to  the  left,  a  group  of  Detached 
Pylons  dating  from  the  later  period,  behind  which  a  road  ascends 
to  the  Mount  of  the  Obelisks  (p.  183).  To  the  right  stands  a  row  of 
Pylon  Tombs,  ending  with  a  fine  specimen  of  'stepped  tomb'  with  a 
portal  surmounted  by  a  pediment,  and  another  tomb  completely 
detached  from  the  rock.  For  the  other  tombs  along  the  N.E.  rock- 
wall,  see  p.  180. 

Following  the  course  of  the  stream,  we  come  to  the  Theatre, 
hewn  in  a  semicircle  out  of  the  living  rock;  it  possesses  33  tiers  of 
seats,  accommodating  more  than  3000  persons.  The  rock-wall 
where  the  theatre  lies,  forming  tho  N.E.  slope  of  the  Mount  of  the 
Obelisks,  contains,  in  the  space  between  the  above-mentioned  road 
to  the  summit  and  the  theatre,  the  Oldest  Tombs  in  the  town.  These 
are  divided  into  two  groups  and  disposed  in  four  rows  one  above 
the  other.  The  lowest  row,  as  well  as  the  portion  of  the  second  row 
adjoining  the  theatre,  are  covered  by  the  soil;  the  construction  of 
the  theatre  itself  caused  the  complete  destruction  of  the  three  lower 
rows  at  that  point;  while  several  tombs  of  the  upper  row  have  been 
cut  away  and  are  now  merely  holes  in  the  rock  above  the  tiers  of 
seats.  For  a  further  description  of  the  tombs  on  the  Mount  of  the 
Obelisks  (S.E.  rock-wall),  see  p.  182. 

The  actual  precincts  of  the  Town  of  Petra  begin  shortly  after 
we  leave  the  theatre,  where  the  stream  enters  the  open  basin  of  the 
Petra  valley.  Some  330  yds.  farther  on  it  makes  a  bend  towards 
the  W.,  and  on  the  right  (N.)  appears  the  Wddi  Khirbet  en-Nasdru. 
The  stream  itself  was  formerly  lined  on  both  sides  with  walls  of 
wrought  stone,  and  at  many  places  it  was  vaulted  over;  traces  of 
the  masonry  are  also  still  to  be  seen,  in  the  lateral  valley.  The 
dwelling-houses  of  the  town  were  mostly  built  to  the  N.  of  the  river, 
while  the  greater  number  of  the  public  buildings  stood  to  the  S.  of  it. 
The  majority  of  these,  however,  have  to  a  great  extent  disappeared. 
The  chief  street  of  the  town  followed  the  S.  bank  of  the  stream, 
and  at  a  point  some  400  yds.  to  theW.  of  the  Wadi  Khirbet  en-Nasara 


Route  21. 


PETRA. 


Kasr  Fir'aun. 


passed  under  a  great  Triple  Gate,  which  probably  formed  the 
entrance  to  the  sacred  precincts  of  the  temple.  The  N.  pier  of  the 
central  opening  is  still  standing;  its  sculptures  have  been  inten- 
tionally removed  with  the  chisel.  The  architectural  decoration 
points  to  the  same  late  epoch  as  that  of  the  temple  (see  below).  — 
Farther  down  the  stream  large  fragments  of  the  masonry  with  which 
it  was  once  bridged  are  still  to  be  seen  on  both  banks.  —  A  little 
to  the  S.  of  the  gate  are  the  ruins  of  Baths,  now  entirely  covered 
with  rubbish;  the  walls  were  embellished  with  engaged  columns 
and  niches.  The  baths  are  adjoined  by  several  other  rooms  now 
more  or  less  in  a  state  of  ruin.  —  In  the  plain,  farther  to  the  S., 
stands  a  solitary  column  of  an  ancient  temple,  called  by  the  people 
Zubb  Fir'aun  ('Phallus  of  Pharaoh'). 

To  the  W.  of  the  Triple  Gate  the  original  pavement  of  the  street 
is  still  visible.  Continuing  some  250  yds.  in  the  same  direction,  we 
see  on  the  left,  at  the  side  of  the  road,  the  place  of  worship  now 
known  as  Kasr  Fir'aun  (Pharaoh's  Castle).  It  is  a  temple  rin  antis', 
with  four  columns  at  the  entrance  of  the  pronaos.  The  posterior  part 
of  the  cella  consisted  of  a  nave  and  aisles,  the  nave  containing  the 
image  of  the  divinity  to  which  the  temple  was  dedicated.  The  en- 
closing walls  of  the  building  are  still  standing,  as  are  also  the  inner 
walls  of  the  cella ;  the  stucco  ornamentation  of  the  former  suggests 
a  late-Roman  origin;  the  cornice  bears  triglyphs  and  shields,  and 
the  walls  and  the  antae  are  adorned  with  wreaths.  —  Opposite  the 
entrance,  on  the  N.  side  of  the  street,  is  a  square  altar  6'/2  ft-  in 
height. 

To  the  W.  of  the  Kasr  Fir'aun  rises  a  huge  mass  of  rock  called 
the  Hill  of  the  Acropolis,  which  was  ascended  by  means  of  an  arti- 
ficially hewn  stairway.  On  the  summit  stand  the  ruins  of  a  Cru- 
saders' Castle  (Citadelle),  and  a  little  lower  down  is  a  large  Place  of 
Sacrifice,  similar  to  that  mentioned  at  p.  183.  Of  the  tombs  on  the 
E.  side,  opposite  the  Kasr  Fir'aun,  the  Unfinished  Temple  Tomb  is  of 
special  interest,  as  showing  how  the  Petrauns  sculptured  their  rock- 
tombs  from  the  top  downwards  without  the  aid  of  scaffolding.  Close 
by  on  the  left  (S.)  is  a  tomb  known  as  the  Columbarium,  unique  of 
its  kind,  the  walls  of  which  are  enriched  with  a  network  of  quad- 
rangular pigeon-holes.  —  The  tombs  in  the  \V.  Sik  offer  no  special 
features  of  interest. 

The  finest  of  the  Roman  tombs  are  situated  in  the  North-East  Rock 
Wall  (Paroi  N.-E.).  The  first  group  has  already  been  mentioned 
at  p.  179.  A  second  group  is  found  in  the  Wall  Opposite  the  Theatre, 
consisting  of  several  rows  of  tombs  built  one  over  the  other;  the 
lower  structures  are  destroyed,  but  the  upper  rows  contain  pylon- 
tombs  of  simple  form  as  well  as  others  of  a  more  decorative  type, 
and  also  'stepped  tombs'  with  corner-pilasters,  some  of  which  are 
highly  finished.  —  Farther  to  the  N.,  on  the  other  side  of  a  small 
ravine,   is  the  Tomb  with  the  Urn.    Massive  substructions  (two 


Tombs. 


PETRA. 


21.  Route.    181 


stories,  each  consisting  of  five  vaults)  support  a  square  terrace  in 
front,  flanked  by  two  columned  porticoes  cut  in  the  rock,  and  ap- 
proached by  a  great  flight  of  steps.  Four  tall  pilasters  on  the  facade 
of  the  tomb  support  an  architrave,  the  continuity  of  which  is  inter- 
rupted by  small  pilasters  ;  above  this  a  triangular  pediment  supports 
the  large  urn  from  which  the  monument  is  named.  The  architrave 
over  the  door  is  embellished  in  characteristic  Roman  fashion  with 
circular  shields  between  the  triglyphs.  In  the  interior  is  a  chamber 
(56'/2  ft.  by  59ft. )  witli  tomb-niches,  but  devoid  of  ornamentation. 
Both  walls  and  ceiling  are  furrowed  obliquely  with  fine  grooving, 
which  enhances  the  effect  of  the  delicate  tints  and  marbling  of  the 
sandstone.  An  inscription  in  red  on  the  rear  wall  shows  that  the 
monument  was  used  later  for  Christian  worship.  —  After  passing 
a  few  less  important  tombs,  we  come  to  the  Corinthian  Tomb,  a 
Roman  structure  built  in  the  style  of  the  Khazneh  (p.  178).  Of  its 
two  stories  the  lower  is  supported  by  eight  columns  in  imitation,  of 
the  Corinthian  style;  the  upper  story,  which  is  narrower,  consists 
of  a  circular  lantern  surrounded  by  columns  and  flanked  by  inter- 
rupted pediments.  The  conical  cupola  of  the  lantern  is  surmounted 
by  an  urn.  The  monument  was  never  completed;  of  the  projected 
portals  of  the  lower  story,  only  two  (at  the  left  corner)  have  been 
executed.  In  the  interior  are  four  chambers  of  various  dimensions.  — 
To  the  N.  of  the  Corinthian  Tomb  is  the  Tomb  with  Three  Stories 
(Tombeau  a  trois  etages),  formerly  the  largest  of  all  the  sepulchral 
monuments  of  Petra,  but  now  much  damaged,  especially  in  the 
upper  story.  The  facade  is  in  imitation  of  that  of  a  palace  and  not, 
as  is  the  case  witli  the  other  tombs,  of  a  temple.  The  lower  story 
has  four  portals,  each  flanked  by  two  columns;  those  in  the  centre 
are  surmounted  by  triangular,  the  two  outer  by  round-arched  pedi- 
ments. A  high  architrave  supports  the  middle  story,  which  is 
adorned  with  18  smaller  columns  and  some  windows.  The  rock 
did  not  reach  to  the  upper  story,  which  is  constructed  of  masonry 
and  supported  by  a  quadruple  architrave.  —  The  last  of  this  group 
of  tombs  stands  isolated  a  little  to  the  N.  of  the  rest.  This  is  the 
Tomb  of  the  Governor,  whose  name  (Sextus  Florentinus)  is  men- 
tioned in  a  Latin  inscription  on  the  lowest  architrave  of  the 
facade.  The  noble  style  of  the  architecture,  and  the  careful  work- 
manship of  which  it  gives  evidence,  formerly  ranked  this  tomb  among 
the  grandest  sepulchral  monuments  of  Petra.  The  temple-like  facade 
is  embellished  with  four  columns,  and  is  broken  in  the  centre  by  a 
portal  flanked  by  pilasters.  Over  the  pediment  is  a  figure  of  Victory 
now  much  weather-worn.  An  arch,  corresponding  to  the  two  central 
columns,  rests  on  the  lower  architrave;  it  is  embellished  with  a 
head  of  Medusa  (now  scarcely  recognizable)  and  is  surmounted  by 
an  eagle  with  extended  wings.    The  gable  bears  an  urn. 

Opposite  the  N.  end,  and  separated  from  the  rock-wall  by  a  £or<ie,  is 
Khirbet  en-Na.y'trd,  a  gioup  of  tombs  hewn  out  of  a  less  elevated  mass  of 
rock,  wbich  includes  several  fine  specimens  in  the  Nabatoean  style.     They 


■ 


182    Route  21. 


PETRA. 


'lomba. 


cannot,  however,  lie  described  here  in  detail.  —  From  this  point  we  can 
cross  the  Wddi  Khirbet  en-Nasdra  and  the  plain  to  the  W.,  and  so  reach 
the  North-West  Rock  Wall,  which  we  first  strike  in  the  Wddi  ei- Turkman i- 
yeh.  The  second  tomb  on  the  N.  bears  a  long  Nabataean  Inscription.  On 
descending  the  valley  farther,  we  notice,  on  the  K.  side  of  a  small  gorge 
and  on  an  isolated  elevation,  a  handsome  Place  of  Sacrifice,  with  an  altar 
and  places  for  cooking  and  eating.  —  A  short  distance  below  and  to  the 
W.  of  Kasr  Kir'aun  the  valley  debouches  into  the  Wadi  Musa,  after  being 
joined  on  the  N.  shortly  before  by  two  lateral  defiles  marked  on  the  map 
as  the  'N.W.  Wadis\  Between  these  is  a  terrace  gently  sloping  to  the  S., 
which  is  known  as  El-Ma'aitereh  and  is  covered  with  numerous  tombs 
(pylon-tombs  both  simple  and  complex,  and  a  few  arched  tombs).  For  the 
road  ascending  to  Ed-Deir  to  the  N.W.  of  these  valleys,  see  below. 

In  order  to  visit  the  tombs  of  the  South-East  Rock  Wall  we  go 
from  the  theatre  in  a  S.  direction  round  the  slope  of  the  hill,  and 
then  follow  the  W.  side  of  the  Mount  of  the  Obelisks.  The  first 
group  of  tombs,  which  extends  as  far  as  the  next  gorge  opening  into 
the  valley  on  the  left  (S.E.),  offers  no  points  of  particular  interest. 
The  valley  itself,  which  is  called  El-Furasa,  is  closed  at  its  lower 
end  by  a  wall  regulating  the  water-supply.  On  the  left  (N.)  side 
of  the  valley  is  the  only  Roman  tomb  which  is  embellished  within 
with  fluted  engaged  columns;  work  on  the  facade  was  never  begun. 
On  the  opposite  (S.)  side  of  the  valley  is  another  Roman  tomb  with 
a  temple-facade,  embellished  with  two  corner-pilasters  and  two 
columns.  Between  the  latter  are  three  niches  containing  three  statues 
of  Roman  soldiers.  —  At  the  E.  end  of  the  gorge,  close  by  a  steep 
descent  protected  by  a  wall,  is  a  rook-staircase  by  which  we  reach 
a  second  valley  lying  somewhat  higher.  In  this  valley  is  the  Garden 
Tomb,  a  temple-structure  with  corner-pilasters.  Close  by  is  a  place 
of  worship  with  a  cistern  and  a  small  garden  planted  with  trees.  — 
We  return  to  the  entrance  of  the  valley  and  follow  the  rock-wall  to 
the  S.  to  a  second  lateral  valley  also  called  El-Farasa.  On  its  S.  side 
is  a  Roman  temple-tomb  exactly  similar  to  the  one  with  statues 
mentioned  above. 

Leaving  the  gorge,  we  may  turn  to  the  W.,  cross  a  conical  hill  in  the 
great  plain  of  the  valley,  and  so  reach  the  South-West  Rock  Wall  (Paroi 
S.-O.).  The  tombs  it  contains,  however,  offer  no  new  points  of  interest, 
and  need  not  be  particularized  here. 

A  visit  to  the  temple  called  by  the  Arabs  Ed-Deir  ('convent'; 
1  hr.  from  Kasr  Firfaun)  is  fatiguing  but  interesting.  On  leaving 
Kasr  Fir'dun,  we  ascend  the  first  'N.W.  Wadi'  (see  Map  at 
p.  177).  The  passage  is  sometimes  as  narrow  as  the  Sik,  and  at 
several  points  the  path  becomes  merely  a  great  staircase  cut  in  the 
rock.  At  the  point  where  the  valley  bifurcates  we  turn  to  the  left 
and  ascend  the  W.  brauch.  The  walls  of  the  principal  valley,  as 
well  as  those  of  the  lateral  valley  to  the  right  (El-Maraitereh,  see 
abovej,  contain  numerous  tombs.  The  facade  of  one  of  these,  the 
Tomb  of  the  Lions,  standing  just  above  the  opening  of  the  lateral 
valley,  soon  strikes  the  eye  of  the  ascending  traveller.  The  en- 
trance is  guarded  by  two  lions  placed  on  either  side  of  the  door;  the 
architrave  is  embellished  with  heads  of  Medusa  above  the  pilasters, 


Excursions. 


PBTRA. 


21.  Route.    183 


the  rest  of  its  decoration  consisting  of  alternate  shields  and  triglyphs. 
This  monument  dates  from  the  3rd  cent,  of  the  Christian  era.  — 
A  little  higher  the  path,  which  now  turns  to  the  left,  becomes  merely 
a  rough  staircase  leading  to  the  plateau  occupied  by  Ed-Deir.  The 
facade  of  the  temple  (ca.  147  ft.  long  and  138  ft.  high)  is  evidently 
an  imitation  of  the  Khazneh  (p.  178),  except  that  in  both  stories 
two  corner-pilasters  have  been  added  to  the  six  columns,  which 
has  the  effect  of  widening  the  front.  The  style  of  the  whole  is  much 
more  florid.  The  interior  contains  only  one  chamber  (37'/2  ft-  by 
39!/2 't. ),  devoid  of  ornamentation;  in  a  niche  in  the  rear  wall 
stands  an  altar. —  On  the  plateau  are  also  several  places  of  worship 
and  sacrifice,  but  no  tombs.  To  the  W.  we  have  a  fine  view,  especi- 
ally of  the  Jebel  Harun  to  the  S.W. 

The  ascent  of  the  Mount  of  the  Obelisks  (En-Nejr;  1  hr.  from  the  end 
of  the  E.  Sik)  is  even  more  fatiguing.  The  route  ascends  the  tirst  gorge 
on  the  left  from  the  extremity  of  the  Sik  (p.  179).  The  path  is  hewn  out 
of  the  rock  and  at  places  takes  the  form  of  a  staircase,  which  alone  proves 
the  importance  attached  by  the  Nabatwans  to  the  places  of  worship  crown- 
ing the  hill.  On  reaching  the  terrace  on  the  summit,  we  first  see  two 
Stone  Columns  (Mazzeba)  hewn  out  of  the  living  rock,  a  symbol  of  divinity 
which  characterizes  all  the  holy  places  of  the  ancient  Semitic  cult.  To 
theN.  andW.  of  the  terrace  arc  places  of  sacrifice.  We  ascend  to  the  highest 
point  towards  the  N. ;  here  are  first  the  ruins  of  a  Crusadtrs'  Castle  (  Cita- 
delle),  and  then  the  great  Place  of  Sacrifice,  with  principal  altar,  circular 
altar,  pool,  and  court.  The  whole  affords  the  visitor  an  excellent  picture 
of  one  of  the  holy  places  of  the  primitive  Semitic  race. 

Excursions.  —  To  El-Beida  (ca.  2  hrs.  to  the  K.  of  the  exit  of  the 
E.  Sik).  We  ascend  the  Wddi  Khirbet  en-ATasd7'd  (p.  17!))  as  far  as  the 
group  of  tombs  of  the  same  name  (p.  181)  ;  leaving  these  to  the  right,  we 
ascend  across  smooth  rocks  (with  traces  of  a  Roman  road)  to  a  plateau. 
To  the  left  is  a  curiously-shaped  mass  of  rock  called  ElFejd;  farther  ou 
we  see  a  tomb  with  a  Nabataan  inscription.  The  broad  valley  here  takes 
the  name  of  El-Beida.  To  the  left  a  narrow  gorge  like  the  Sik,  named 
El-Bdrid,  leads  to  the  W.  among  the  rocks.  Both  valleys  contain  rock- 
caverns,  cisterns,  and  ruins  of  khans.  The  caverns  seem  mostly  to  have 
served  as  store-rooms,  and  not  as  tombs,  and  the  spot  itself  was  doubtless 
a  camping  place  for  the  caravans,  which  are  scarcely  likely  to  have  enter- 
ed the  town  of  Petra.  The  wares  in  transit  were  probably  sorted  and 
distributed  here  according  to  their  destination. 

In  the  Wddi  Sabra,  to  the  S.  of  Petra  (l3/t  hr.  from  the  theatre),  lie 
the  ruins  of  Sabra,  They  include  a  theatre  (or  Naumachia?),  and  farther 
down,  on  a  small  elevation,  the  Acropolis,  below  which  are  other  structures. 

The  road  to  the  Jebel  Harun  (from  Kasr  Firfaun  to  the  foot  of  the 
mountain,  ca.  1  hr. ;  travellers  are  warned  against  the  exorbitant  demands 
of  the  sheikh  of  Elji)  lies  along  the  S.W.  rock-wall  of  the  valley,  and  at 
its  S.  extremity  turns  to  the  W.  across  the  plain.  —  The  Jebel  Hdrdn 
(4360  ft.),  erroneously  identified  by  tradition  with  the  ancient  Mount  H6r, 
dominates  all  the  surrounding  country.  The  mountain  has  two  peaks. 
On  the  E.  peak  is  situated  the  Tomb  of  Aaron  ( Jiabr  Jldrdn),  to  which 
pilgrimages  are  made.  The  tomb  is  shown  to  Christians  very  unwillingly. 
Near  the  summit  are  a  few  ruins  which,  perhaps,  belonged  to  an  old 
monastery.  The  tomb  is  a  miserable  modern  building  containing  a  modern 
sarcophagus.  At  the  N.W.  corner  a  passage  descends  from  the  chapel  to  a 
subterranean  vault  (light  necessary).  The  tradition  that  Aaron  was  buried 
here  (Numbers  xx.  28),  is  certainly  ancient,  and  is  mentioned  by  Josephus. 
Many  Arabic  and  Hebrew  inscriptions  have  been  written  here  by  pilgrims. 
The  view  hence  is  very  curious,  including  the  necropolis  of  Petra,  the  gorges 
anil   chasm  of  the  mountains,  and  to  the  W.  the  desert  of  the  r.\rab:i. 


22.   The  Peninsula  of  Sinai. 

The  best  Season  for  the  journey  is  between  the  middle  of  February 
and  the  end  of  April ,  and  between  the  beginning  of  October  and  the 
middle  of  November.  Even  at  the  end  of  May  the  weather  is  hot,  while 
in  summer  the  glare  of  the  sun,  reflected  from  the  granite  rocks  of  the 
Sinai   mountains,   is  very  oppressive.     In  winter  the  nights  are  too  cold. 

This  expedition  is  generally  undertaken  from  Suez  (see  Baedeker •  *  Egypt) 
and  takes  at  least  15-17  days,  including  those  spent  at  the  monastery. 
The  traveller  should  procure  through  his  consul  a  letter  of  introduction 
from  the  Monastery  of  the  Ninait.es  at  Cairo  to  those  of  the  Monastery  of 
St.  Catharine.  All  the  preliminaries  for  the  journey  must  be  arranged 
at  Cairo.  The  first  thing  to  be  done  is  to  enter  into  relations  with  a 
trustworthy  tourist-agency  or  to  engage  a  good  Dragoman,  who  provides 
camels,  tents,  and  provisions.  The  traveller  should  himself  supervise 
his  preparations  (comp.  pp.  xx  et  seq.).  A  written  Contract  is  exceedingly 
desirable  (for  a  specimen,  see  p.  xviii),  and  this  should  be  signed  at  the 
consulate.  Express  stipulations  should  be  made  for  an  adequate  supply 
of  water,  both  for  drinking  and  for  washing.  With  regard  to  personal 
equipment,  comp.  p.  xxi.  Strong  shoes  are  necessary,  as  the  rocks  are 
very  sharp  and  angular.  Warm  rugs  should  be  taken  to  fold  over  the 
saddle  and  to  be  used  at  night.  Arabian  saddlebags  (p.  xx)  are  very 
convenient  for  carrying  the  requirements  of  the  toilet,  books,  and  either 
articles.  The  traveller  should  have  his  own  drinking- cup  and  water- 
bottle,  which  latter  can  be  filled  from  time  to  time  from  the  small  cask 
in  which  the  general  supply  of  water  is  carried.  —  No  one  should  attempt 
to  make  the  trip  without  a  dragoman  and  tents,  unless  he  is  experienced 
in  Oriental  travelling  and  is  master  of  the  Arabic  language  (comp.  p.  195).  — 
For  the  expedition  from  the  Sinai  Monastery  to  Petra,  comp.  pp.  209,210. 

The  Riding  Camels  (called  '/<e</m'  in  Egypt  and  ideliW  in  Syria)  are 
selected  animals  of  noble  breed,  and  very  superior  to  the  ordinary  camel 
(called  jemel)  of  the  caravans.  The  saddle  consists  of  a  kind  of  wooden 
frame  with  leather  cushions.  The  traveller  sits  with  one  leg  round  the 
foremost  crutch,  somewhat  in  the  way  in  which  ladies  ride.  Mounting 
is  not  easy  at  first.  When  the  animal  kneels  down,  the  rider  grasps  the. 
two  crutches,  and  places  one  knee  on  the  cushion;  he  then  swings  the 
other  leg  into  the  saddle  over  the  hindmost  crutch.  The  camels  have  a 
trick  of  getting  up  while  the  rider  is  in  the  act  of  mounting,  but  the 
drivers  prevent  this  by  putting  their  feet  on  one  of  the  animal's  bent 
fore-legs.  The  first  movements  arc  always  somewhat  violent,  and  the 
novice  must  hold  fast  by  the  crutches;  as  the  camel  always  gets  up  with 
its  hind-legs  first,  the  rider  should  at  first  lean  back,  and  afterwards 
forward.  The  walking  motion  is  pleasant  enough  when  one  has  become 
accustomed  to  it.  The  rider  need  not  hold  the  reins  in  his  hand.  As  a 
standard  of  distance  we  adopt  the  average  speed  of  the  camels.  The  rate 
of 'travelling  by  camel  is  about  2'/s  M.  per  hour. 

The  Peninsula  of  Sinai,  beginning  at  the  Isthmus  of  Suez, 
projects  into  the  Ked  Sea  and  is  bounded  by  the  Gulf  of  Sue?,  on 
the  W.  and  the  Bay  of  rAkaba  on  the  East.  This  triangular  region 
is  9625  sq.  M.  in  area  (i.e.  about  the  same  size  as  Sicily),  and  politi- 
cally forms  a  part  of  Egypt.  In  the  N.  part  of  it  is  the  Jebel  et-Tili, 
alimestone  range  of  moderate  height,  intersected  by  numerous  wadis, 
which  runs  from  the  Gulf  of  Suez  towards  the  S.E.,  and  then  sends 
forth  a  number  of  ramifications  to  the  E.  and  N.E.  The  S.  part  of 
the  peninsula  is  occupied  by  the  massive  granite  elevations  of  the 
Mount  Sinai  Group,  culminating  in  the  Jcbel  Kutherin  (p.  205),  the 
Jebel  Musd  (p.  203),  and  the  Jebel  Serbdl  (p.  193).  The  peninsula 
has  always  been  thinly  populated,  as  it  is  but  scantily  supplied  with 


U- 


II 


WmF^i 


History. 


PENINSULA  OF  SINAI.       22.  Route.    185 


water  and  is  adapted  for  cultivation  in  a  very  few  spots  only.  About 
4-5000  Bednins,  called  Towara  ('Folk  of  the  Mountain  Tor',  i.e.  Sinai), 
manage  to  obtain  a  livelihood  in  it.  The  peaceful  tribes  of  the  W. 
hunt  the  mountain -goat,  convey  millstones,  charcoal,  and  other 
wares  to  Egypt,  and  conduct  pilgrims  (chiefly  of  the  Greek  faith)  to 
Mt.  Sinai.  The  tribes  in  the  E.  are  of  a  wilder  and  more  warlike 
character.  Each  tribe  has  its  particular  district,  the  boundaries  of 
which  are  indicated  by  stones  at  doubtful  points.  These  Beduins 
have  long  professed  Islam,  but  know  little  or  nothing  of  the  prophet 
and  his  religion.  They  are  seldom  seen  to  pray,  but  they  celebrate 
festivals  to  Salih  and  Miisa  (Moses),  their  national  saints,  and  sacri- 
fice animals  in  their  honour. 

The  Mount  Sinai  Group.  'This  huge  range,  composed  of  primaeval  gneiss 
and  granite,  or,  in  more  precise  geological  terminology,  of  colourless  quartz, 
flesh-coloured  felspar,  green  hornblende,  and  black  slate,  rising  in  majestic 
and  precipitous  masses  and  furrowed  by  vertical  clefts,  extends  from 
Serbal  to  the  Om  Shomar,  and  from  the  Om  Shomar  to  the  IJas  Moham- 
med. Since  the  time  of  their  formation  these  crystalline  masses  have 
undergone  no  geological  change,  but  have  reared  their  summits  above 
the  ocean  from  the  beginning  of  time  ,  unaffected  by  the  transitions  of 
the  Silurian  or  Devonian,  the  Permian,  Triassic,  or  chalk  periods.  At  the 
base  only  do  these  venerable  mountains  show  any  trace  of  alteration.  Thus 
the  Red  Sea  has  on  one  side  thrown  a  girdle  of  coral  around  Mount  Sinai, 
and  so  in  recent  times  produced  a  coast  district;  while  towards  the  N.  the 
sea,  during  the  chalk  period,  has  formed  the  limestone  plateau  of  the  desert 
of  Tib.  (5900  ft.  above  the  sea-level),  which  stretches  across  the  whole  of 
Sinai  to  Mount  Lebanon.  The  crystalline  masses  of  the  Sinai  chain, 
which  extend  from  N.  to  S.  for  a  distance  of  about  40  M.,  exhibit  no 
great  variety.  The  whole  range  forms  a  central  nucleus  traversed  by 
diorites  and  porphyries1  (O.  Fraas). 

History.  The  peninsula  has  never  played  a  prominent  part  in 
history.  The  Egyptian  rulers  carried  on  mining  here  (p.  189),  and 
in  the  period  of  the  Ilyksos  the  mountain-tribes  succeeded  for  a  time 
in  shaking  off  the  Egyptian  yoke.  Ramses  II  (ca.  B.C.  1324-1258), 
who  is  frequently  identified  with  the  oppressor  of  the  Jews  in  the 
Bible  narrative,  is  the  last  Pharaoh  named  on  the  inscriptions.  With 
regard  to  the  wanderings  of  the  Israelites  in  Sinai,  it  must  be  admitted 
that  the  attempts  to  identify  the  localities  mentioned  in  the  Book  of 
Exodus  are  quite  futile.  The  Mount  of  Lawgiving,  named  Horeb  in 
some  places  and  Sinai  in  others,  was  placed  by  the  older  tradition 
near  the  S.  boundary  of  Judah;  it  was  not  till  after  the  Captivity 
that  it  was  assigned  to  the  Sinai  Peninsula ,  and  the  list  of  the 
stations  of  the  Israelite  wandering  in  the  desert  also  belongs  to  this 
period.  After  the  middle  of  the  4th  cent,  the  peninsula  was  gradu- 
ally peopled  with' Anchorites  and  numerous  Ccenobites ,  who  were 
bound  by  a  common  monastic  rule.  They  suffered  much  from  the 
attacks  of  the  Saracens  and  Blemmyes.  Terrible  massacres  of  the 
monks  of  Sinai  were  perpetrated  by  the  Saracens  in  373  and  395 
or  411,  of  which  Ammonius  and  Nilus,  two  eye-witnesses,  have 
given  accounts.  The  castle  erected  by  Justinian  (p.  198)  ultimately 
afforded  them  some  protection  against  these  onslaughts.    At  a  later 


•f  kkfvwAl-  vvvWtVi 


186   Route  22.         PENINSULA  OF  SINAT.         7.  From  Suez 

date  the  Monastery  of  St.  Catharine  was  the  only  spot  in  the  penin- 
sula that  was  not  submerged  by  the  advancing  tide  of  Islam. 

Litkkaturk.  Prof.  W.  Flintier t  Fetrie,  lieseurches  iu  Sinai  (London,  1S06); 
Hull,  Mount  Seir,  Sinai,  and  West  Palestine  (London,  1885);  Dean  Stanley, 
Sinai  and  Palestine  (London,  1856;  new.  ed.  1905);  Ordnance  Survey  of 
the  Peninsula  of  Sinai  (3  vols. ;  Southampton,  1809) ;  Palmer,  The  Desert 
of  the  Exodus  (Cambridge,  1871);  and  works  by  Burckhardl,  Robinson, 
Fraas,  and  Ebers  (see  pp.  xcviii  et  seq.). 


1.  From  Suez  to  Mount  Sinai  via  Maghara  and  Wadi  Firan. 

8  Days.  —  1st  Day.  It  is  customary  to  start  in  the  afternoon  and  go 
no  farther  than  'Ain  MUtsd  (2'/z  hrs.).  —  2nd  Day.  From  rAin  Musa  to  the 
beginning  of  the  Wddi  Werdan  (p.  187),  8  hrs.  —  3rd  Day.  From  the 
beginning  of  the  Wadi  Werdan  to  Wddi  O/iarandel  (p.  187),  73/4  hrs.  — 
4th  Day.  From  Wadi  Gharandel  to  Jids  Abu  Zenimeh  (p.  188),  83A  hrs. 
The  4th  day  may  be  divided  into  two  days,  if  the  Jehel  Hammdm  Fa/tin 
(p.  188)  is  to  be  visited.  The  best  camping-place  is  at  tlie  mouth  of  the 
Wddi  Kuweisfh.  —  5th  Day.  From  Ras  Abu  Zenimeh  to  the  mines  in  the 
Wddi  Ataghdra  (pu.  189,  190).  8'A  hrs.  —  6th  Day.  From  Wadi  Maghara  to 
the  hill  of  El-Meitarrel  in  the  Wddi  Firdn  (p.  191),  9  hrs.  The  6th  days 
journey  should  be  divided  into  two  parts  by  those  who  are  specially 
interested  in  the  mines  of  the  Wadi  Maghara  and  the  inscriptions  in  the 
Wadi  Mokatteb.  On  the  7th  day  we  then  arrive  in  good  time  at  the  Oasis 
of  Firdn  (p.  192).  —  7th  Day.  "From  the  hill  of  El-Meharret  to  the  end 
of  the  Wddi  Stldf  (p.  194),  73/4  hrs.  The  traveller  who  desires  to  ascend 
Mt.  Serbal  (p.  193)  should  devote  this  day  to  the  excursion,  giving  notice 
to  the  Beduins  of  his  intention  on  the  previous  day.  They  will  then 
provide  guides,  and  pitch  the  tents  near  the  best  starting-point  for  the 
ascent,  which  should  be  begun  at  an  early  hour.  —  8th  Day.  Over  the 
Nakb  el-Hawi  (p.  195)  to  the  Monastery  of  Sinai  (p.  198),  4'/2  hrs.  Ifthe 
easier  route  from  the  Oasis  of  Firan  through  the  Wadi  esh-Sheikh  (p.  206) 
to  the  monastery  (123/.»  hrs.)  is  preferred,  the  party  should  encamp  on  the 
7th  day  by  the  defile  of  El-Watiyeh  (9  hrs. ;  p.  207). 

Suez  (Hotel  Bel-Air;  Hot.  Bachet),  see  Baedeker1  s  Egypt.  —  "We 
are  rowed  across  the  shallows  lying  between  the  town  and  the  harbour 
island,  then,  turning  to  the  left,  enter  the  Suez  Canal,  and  row  to 
the  N.  to  the  landing-place,  which  is  about  6'/2  M.  from  the  Springs 
of  Moses.  The  whole  of  the  route  thither  by  land  traverses  the  sand 
of  the  desert,  skirting  the  sea.  Towards  the  W.  tower  the  dark 
masses  of  the  Jebel  'Ataka.  To  the  left  rise  the  yellowish  ranges  of 
the  Jebel  er-Rdha,  belonging  to  the  chain  of  the  Jebel  et-Tih. 

The  Springs  of  Moses  ('Ayun  Musa)  form  an  oasis  of  luxuriant 
vegetation,  abouttfive  furlongs  in  circumference.  Lofty  date-palms 
and  wild  palm-saplings,  tamarisks,  and  acacias  thrive  in  abundance; 
and  vegetables  are  successfully  cultivated  by  the  Arabs.  The  springs, 
varying  in  temperature  from  70°  to  82°  Fahr.,  are  situated  among  the 
gardens,  which  are  enclosed  by  opuntia  hedges  and  palings.  Some 
aie  only  slightly  brackish,  while  others  are  undrinkably  bitter.  The 
largest;  in  the  garden  farthest,  to  the  S  ,  is  said  to  have  been  the 
bitter  spring  which  Moses  sweetened  by  casting  into  it  a  particular 
tree  (Ex.  xv.  23  et  seq.).  The  traveller  may  here  rest  and  partake 
of  coffee.  —  A  mound,  ca.  10  min.  to  the  S.E.  of  the  gardens, 
which  is  about  15  ft.  high  and  is  marked  by  a  solitary  palm-tree, 


to  Sinai. 


PENINSULA  OK  SINAI.         22.  Route.    187 


commands  a  fine  view.  The  pool  on  the  top  of  the  mound  is  one 
of  the  most  characteristic  of  the  springs,  and  is  full  of  animal  life. 

Beyond  rAyun  Musa  the  route  traverses  the  Wadi  el- Iran,  and 
afterwards  an  undulating  region.  On  the  hillsides  specimens  of 
isinglass-stone  are  frequently  found.  To  the  right  stretches  the 
sea,  beyond  which  rise  the  spurs  of  the  'Ataka  mountains;  on  the 
left  are  the  heights  of  the  Jehel  er-Raha,  and,  farther  on,  those  of 
the  Jebel  et-Tili  (p.  184).  About  9  M.  from  'Ayun  Musa  begins  a 
monotonous  tract,  which  extends  for  a  distance  of  over  20  M.  in  the 
direction  of  the  Wadi  el-'Amdra.  Near  the  beginning  of  the  plain, 
the  so-called  Derb  Far'un  (or  'road  of  the  Pharaohs'),  skirting  the 
coast,  diverges  to  the  right  to  the  Jebel  Hammam  Farrun  (p.  188), 
while  another  route  to  the  left  leads  to  the  Jebel  er-Raha  and  the 
desert  of  Et-Tih.    We  follow  the  camel-track  between  these  two. 

We  next  cross  (2  hrs.)  several  wadis,  the  most  important  of 
which  is  the  broad  WddiSudur,  adjoined  by  the  Jebel  Bishr  or  Su- 
d&r  on  the  left,  and  separating  the  chains  of  Er-Raha  and  Et-Tih. 
After  a  journey  of  fully  5  hrs.  from  the  beginning  of  the  plain  we 
reach  the  Wadi  Werdan.  The  surface  of  the  desert  is  sprinkled  at 
places  with  sharp  flints,  which  may  be  fragments  of  nodules  burst 
by  the  heat,  and  resemble  arrow-heads,  knives,  and  the  like. 

We  traverse  the  Wadi  Werdan  in  iy4  hr.  On  the  left  the  hills 
of  the  Jebel  Wuta,  which  belong  to  the  Tih  chain,  approach  the 
route,  and  we  obtain  a  fine  retrospect  of  the  Jebel  Sudur  (see  above). 
The  light-coloured  limestone  hills,  and  the  whitish-yellow  surface 
of  the  desert,  present  a  remarkably  colourless  appearance. 

The  desert  is  not  entirely  destitute  of  vegetation,  especially  in  spring. 
One  of  the  commonest  plants  is  the  Beitardn  (Cantolina  fragrantissima), 
of  which  the  camels  are  very  fond,  and  which  is  full  of  aromatic  juice; 
it  is  collected  by  the  natives  in  the  N.  part  of  the  peninsula.  Golden 
colocynths  (Banzai;  Citrullus  colocyntkis)  are  sometimes  seen  lying  on 
the  wayside.'  The  dried  shells  are  used  by  the  Beduins  for  holding  water, 
or  as  a  receptacle  for  butter.  The  inside  of  the  fruit  is  used  as  a  medi- 
cine.    The  Seydl  (p.  170)  occurs  frequently  farther  to  the  S. 

The  (2Vo  hrs.)  Wadi  el-Amara,  and  beyond  it  the  Hajar  er- 
Rekkab  ('rider's  stone'),  consisting  of  several  masses  of  rock,  are  next 
reached.  The  ground  becomes  more  undulating.  In  the  distance, 
to  the  S.,  rise  the  Jebel  Hammam  Far'un  (p.  188)  and  the  long 
Jebel  Gharandel  (see  below).  In  less  than  2  hrs.  we  next  reach  the 
sand-hills  in  the  Wadi  JIawdra,  on  the  summit  of  which  a  bitter 
spring  rises,  supposed  by  some  to  be  the  Biblical  Marah  (Ex.  xv. 
23-25).  Immediately  before  us  rises  the  curiously  shaped  Jebel 
Gharandel  (Gerendel,  Kharandel,  Gurundel),  the  name  of  which 
occurs  at  an  early  period.  The  Wadi  Gharandel  (reached  in  2  hrs. 
more)  is  used  as  a  camping-place  on  account  of  its  supply  of  slightly 
brackish  but  drinkable  water.  The  vegetation  here  is  pleasing. 
Among  the  plants  are  several  lofty  and  bushy  palms,  seyal-trees, 
gharkad-shrubs,  and  tamarisks.  The  remains  of  two  hermit-cells, 
hewn  in  the  rocks,  are  not  worth  visiting. 

Baedeker's  Palestine  and  Syria.    4th  Edit.  12 


la 


188    Route  22.  PENINSULA  OF  SINAI.        1.  From  Suez 


The  route,  farther  on,  at  first  ascends  slowly.  In  1  hr.  we  reach 
the  sepulchral  mound  of  JJosdn  Abu  Zenneh (horse  of  Ahu  Zenneh), 
on  which  the  Beduins,  in  passing,  throw  a  stone  or  a  handful  of 
sand ,  as  a  mark  of  contempt ,  exclaiming  —  'here  is  food  for  the 
horse  of  Ahu  Zenneh.'  The  story  goes  that  an  Arab  called  Abu 
Zenneh  cruelly  rode  his  mare  to  death,  and  then  marked  the  marvel- 
lous length  of  her  dying  leap  with  stones.  —  A  little  farther  on  we 
obtain  a  fine  view :  facing  us  rises  the  triple-peaked  Sarbut  el-Jemel 
(p.  209),  to  the  S.E.  tower  the  summits  of  the  Jebel  Serbal  and  the 
Jebel  el-Benat,  to  the  left  are  the  heights  of  Et-Tih,  and  to  the  right 
the  Jebel  Hammam  Far'iln  and  Jebel  Useit.  We  next  cross  the  Wddi 
Useit,  which  contains  several  pools  of  water  and  palm  saplings. 
About  2  hrs.  beyond  the  Hosan  Abu  Zenneh  we  enter  the  Wddi 
Kuiceiseh,  a  spacious  basin  enclosed  and  traversed  by  low  sand-hills, 
and  lying  at  the  base  of  the  Jebel  Useit  and  Jebel  Hammam  Far  uti. 

The  Jebel  Hammam  Far"un  (1567  ft. ;  V2-I  day;  provisions  should  be 
taken) ,  or  the  '■JSatk  of  Pharaoh"1',  is  most  conveniently  ascended  from 
this  point,  and  is  chiefly  interesting  to  geologists.  On  the  side  next  the 
sea  there  are  several  weak  saline  springs,  which  are  used  by  the  Arabs 
as  a  cure  for  rheumatism.  Some  of  them  attain  a  temperature  of  157°. 
Before  using  the  water  the  Arabs  are  in  the  habit  of  presenting  a  pro- 
pitiatory cake  or  other  offering  to  the  spirit  of  Pharaoh,  who  is  to  be 
eternally  boiled  here  for  his  sins. 

The  route  continues  to  follow  the  Wadi  Kuweiseh  for  U/4  hr. , 
and  then  crosses  the  Wddi  et-Tdl,  a  valley  of  considerable  breadth, 
which  descends  to  the  sea  towards  the  S.W.  in  the  form  of  a  narrow 
gorge.  After  '/2  nr-  we  reach  the  Wddi  Sheleikeh.  In  3/4  hr.  more  we 
reach  the  junction  of  this  valley  with  the  Wadi  el-Homr  (p.  209 ). 

We  follow  the  valley  descending  towards  the  sea,  now  called 
the  W&di  Tayyibeh,  with  numerous  windings,  several  springs  of 
ban  water,  and  a  few  stunted  palms.  The  valley  is  enclosed  amphi- 
theatrically  by  barren  slopes  of  whitish-yellow  sand  and  by  rocks. 
A  striking  appearance  is  presented  by  the  Jebel  Tayyibeh,  situated 
near  the  sea,  and  consisting  of  oblique  strata  of  different  colours; 
the  lowest  of  these  is  golden  yellow,  surmounted  in  turn  by  red, 
rusty  black,  and  yellow  layers.  After  l3/4  hr.  the  valley  expands,  and 
we  approach  the  open  sea,  washing  the  banks  of  the  sandy  plain  of 
El-Mehdir.  After  a  walk  of  l'/o  hr.  along  the  coast  we  reach  the 
Kas  Abu  Zenimeh,  which  still  bears  the  tomb  of  the  saint,  and 
affords  a  beautiful  and  sheltered  camping-ground.  At  this  spot  some 
authorities  locate  the  Reedy  Sea  of  the  Bible  (Numb,  xxxiii.  10). 
In  ancient  times  the  roads,  by  which  ore  and  stone  were  brought 
from  the  mines  of  the  Wadi  Maghara  and  Sarbut  el-Khadem  for 
farther  conveyance  by  water,  converged  here. 


Beyond  Abu   Zenimeh  the   route   skirt 


IV2  hr. 


From  time  immemorial  Sinai  travellers  have  here  amused  them- 
selves by  picking  up  shells.  To  the  left  of  the  route  rise  curiously 
formed  yellowish  limestone  hills  piled  up  in  strata,  and  apparently 
resting  on  gigantic,  shell-shaped  pedestals.    At  the  S.  end  of  these 


to  Sinai. 


PENINSULA  OF  SINAI.        22.  Route.    189 


hills  rises  the  Jebel  en-Nokhel,  ahold  eminence  ahutting  so  closely 
on  the  sea  that  it  is  washed  by  the  -waves  at  high  water,  in  which 
case  the  traveller  must  cross  it  by  a  path  ascending  in  steps. 

Beyond  this  hill  we  reach  a  plain,  called  El-Markha,  of  consid- 
erable extent,  and  not  destitute  of  vegetation.  It  is  bounded  on 
the  N.E.  by  the  black  Jebel  el-Markha  (590  ft.).  Proceeding  to  the 
S.E.  for  2^4  hrs.  more,  we  at  length  reach  the  more  mountainous 
part  of  the  peninsula,  which  we  enter  by  the  valley  named  Hanak 
el-Lakam.  After  3/4  lir.  we  reach  the  mouth  of  the  Wddi  Ba'ba'  on 
the  N.  (left),  which  is  commanded  by  the  dark  Jebel  Ba'ba',  while 
on  the  S.  (right)  begins  the  Wddi  Shelled.  Traversing  the  latter, 
we  next  enter  the  Wadi  Budra.  The  winding  route  ascends  grad- 
ually. We  pass  several  mountain -slopes  resembling  huge  walls 
of  blocks  of  stone,  artificially  constructed.  Farther  on  we  observe 
grey  and  red  granite  rocks  amidst  other  formations.  In  every  direc- 
tion lie  long  heaps  of  black,  volcanic  slag.  Beside  them  lie  numer- 
ous fragments  of  brown,  grey,  and  red  stone,  including  felsite  por- 
phyry, which  is  remarkable  for  the  bright,  brick-red  colour  of  the 
orthoclase  felspar.  After  l1/^  hr.  we  come  to  a  frowning  barrier  of 
rock.  A  steep  bridle-path  ascends  to  the  pass  of  Nakb  el-Budra 
(1263  ft.),  which  was  traversed  in  ancient  times  by  the  road  from 
the  Wadi  Maghara  to  the  sea  (comp.  p.  188).  The  C/4  hr.)  summit 
of  the  pass  commands  a  fine  retrospective  view  of  the  wild  Wadi 
Budra,  the  Has  Abu  Zenimeh,  the  Jebel  Haramam  Far'un,  and  the 
sea.  Beyond  the  pass  the  valley  is  called  the  Wddi  Nakb  el-Budra, 
through  Avhich  we  descend  in  l1/^  hr.  to  the  Wddi  Sidr,  a  winding 
valley  enclosed  by  rocks  of  red  granite.  We  soon  reach  the  Wddi 
Umm  Temdn  on  the  left,  where  Messrs.  Palmer  and  Wilson  (in  1869) 
discovered  mines  similar  to  those  at  Maghara.  The  (3/4  hr.)  Wddi 
Maghara  next  diverges  to  the  left.  This  has  been  identified  by 
many  authorities  with  the  ancient  Dophkah  in  the  Wilderness  of  Sin 
(Num.  xxxiii.  12).  At  the  angle  formed  by  the  Wadi  Maghara  with 
the  Wddi  Jinneh  {Qinne  on  the  maps),  descending  from  the  E.,  are 
situated  the  famous  old  — 

Mines  of  Maghara,  which  deserve  a  visit  (2  hrs.). 

According  to  the  inscriptions  in  the  mines,  Snefru,  the  first  king  of 
the  4th  Dynasty  (ca.  2500  B.C.),  carried  on  mining  here.  The  next  are 
Khufu  (Kheops),  the  huilder  of  the  Great  Pyramid  of  Gizeh,  several  monarchs 
of  the  5th  and  6th  Dynasties,  and  Usertesen  II.  and  Amenemhet  III.,  of 
the  12th  Dynasty.  During  an  expedition  to  Maghara,  undertaken  in  1904 
for  the  Egypt  Exploration  Fund,  Prof.  Flinders  Petric  found  that  many  of 
the  ancient  inscriptions  had  been  destroyed  or  injured  by  a  modern  mining 
company.  Eleven,  which  remained  intact,  were  removed  to  (he  Cairo 
museum.  A  pillar  here  dates  from  the  time  of  Ramses  II.  (ca.  B.C.  1324-1258). 
Reliefs  on  the  rocky  walls  show  how  the  people  were  forced  to  work  in 
the  mines.  A  gigantic  Pharaoh  is  shown  grasping  the  necks  of  a  number 
of  the  vanquished  with  one  hand,  while  with  the  other  he  brandishes  a 
weapon.  Sacrifices,  festivals,  and  a  visit  paid  to  the  mines  by  inspectors 
are  also  represented.  —  The  mineral  obtained  here  is  called  ilafkat  in 
the  inscriptions ;  it  was  not,  however,  emerald,  but  a  kind  of  malachite 

12* 


190    Route  22.         PENINSULA  OF  SINAI. 


From  <Swes 


(probably  tbe  'false  emerald''  of  Theophrastus).  Pieces  of  green  glass  of 
the  early  Egyptian  period  are  still  preserved.  The  copper-green  named 
'chrysocolla'  was  probably  another  form  of  this  mineral. 

The  brown  and  brick-red  slopes  of  the  Wadi  Maghara  rise  pre- 
cipitously to  a  considerable  height.  They  belong  partly  to  the  sand- 
stone, and  partly  to  the  granite  formation.  The  mines  are  situated 
on  the  slopes  on  the  N.W.  side,   about  145  ft.  above  the  bottom  of 


Xit«rip(.||fcucr.|fri^r.?   j, 


the  valley.  The  shaft  penetrates  the  rock  to  a  considerable  depth, 
being  very  wide  at  first,  but  afterwards  contracting.  Numerous  pillars 
have  been  left  for  the  support  of  the  roof;  old  chisel-marks  are  still 
observable.  At  many  places  the  reddish  stone  contains  small  bluish- 
green,  very  impure  turquoises,  which  may  easily  be  detached  with 
a  penknife.  These  stones  lose  their  colour  entirely  after  a  few  years. 
The  Beduins  frequently  offer  for  sale  large,  but  worthless,  turquoises 
at  exorbitant  prices.  Clambering  up  the  rugged  slope  of  the  hill 
from  the  entrance  to  the  mines,  we  reach  a  number  of  figures  en- 
graved on  the  rock,  discovered  by  Prof.  Palmer,  and  consisting  of  the 
hawk,  the  bird  sacred  to  Horus.  five  human  forms,  and  some  ille- 
gible hieroglyphics.  The  hill  opposite  the  entrance  to  the  mines 
is  crowned  with  the  remains  of  a  fort  and  of  the  mining  settlement 
of  the  period  of  the  Pharaohs.  Here  also  are  found  various  tools  of 
flint,  particularly  arrow-heads  and  sharp  instruments,  which  were 


J.SeroiHl  /,„**  I  V;  \  r 

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■yit&i     ■■■■■■■■^■1    ;*s*&r      ■■■^■■■1 


to  Sinai. 


PENINSULA  OF  SINAI.        22.  Route.    191 


perhaps  used  for  engraving  inscriptions.  On  the  farther  side  of  the 
hill  is  the  ruined  house  of  Major  Macdonald,  who  made  an  unsuccess- 
ful searcli  for  turquoises  in  the  old  mines  in  1863.  There  is  a  spring 
about  25  min.  distant  from  the  house. 

A  little  beyond  the  mouth  of  the  Wadi  Maghara  the  Wddi  Sidr 
turns  to  the  S.,  skirting  the  JebeL  Abu'Aldka  (2620  ft."),  and  after 
fully  an  hour  leads  to  a  large  tableland.  To  the  E.,  opposite  to  us, 
is  the  mouth  of  the  Wddi  Neba',  and  to  the  S.  lies  the  W&di  Mokatteb, 
i.e.  'Valley  of  Inscriptions',  which  we  now  follow.  On  theW.  side 
of  this  broad  valley  rises  the  Jebel  Mokatteb  (2380  ft.),  at  the  foot  of 
which  are  strewn  blocks  of  sandstone,  several  of  them  bearing  the 
famous  so-called  'Inscriptions  of  Sinai'. 

Most  of  the  Sinaitic  Inscriptions  arc  in  the  Nabatsean  character,  others 
in  Greek,  and  a  few  in  Coptic  and  Arabic.  The  small  figures,  which  are 
entirely  destitute  of  artistic  value,  represent  armed  and  unarmed  men, 
travellers  and  warriors,  laden  and  unladen  camels,  horses  with  and  without 
riders  and  attendants,  mountain-goats,  ships,  crosses,  and  stars.  A  priest 
with  raised  arms,  and  an  equestrian  performer,  are  worthy  of  notice.  Cosmas 
(Indicopleustes,  or  the  'Indian  Traveller'),  who  visited  the  Peninsula  of 
Sinai  in  A.D.  535  and  saw  these  inscriptions,  believed  them  to  have  been 
executed  by  the  Israelites  during  the  Exodus.  Later  investigations,  how- 
ever, have  ascertained  that  they  date  from  the  first  four  centuries  of  the 
Christian  era ;  and  that  the  authors  of  these  inscriptions  were  simple 
travellers.  The  Nabateean  inscriptions  are  pagan,  but  the  Greek  inscriptions 
were  added  by  Christian  pilgrims.  By  the  figure  of  a  'Diakonos  Hiob1  a 
soldier,  who  was  hostile  to  the  Nazarenes,  has  written:  —  'a  bad  set  of 
people  these  ;  I,  the  soldier,  have  written  this  with  my  own  hand.' 

The  S.  entrance  to  the  Wadi  Mokatteb,  a  valley  about  4'^  M. 
in  length,  is  closed  by  a  spur  of  the  Jebel  Mokatteb,  which  our 
route  crosses.  Beyond  the  pass  (1520  ft.),  whence  Ave  obtain  an 
excellent  survey  of  the  imposing  mass  of  Mt.  Serbal,  the  route 
traverses  heights  and  hollows  strewn  with  small  stones.  The  red 
rubble  looks  like  fragments  of  bricks,  and  the  slopes  resemble 
dilapidated  walls  of  loose  stones. 

After  3/4hr.  we  enter  the  W§.di  Fir&n,  which  is  probably  the  most 
important  in  the  peninsula.  It  begins  above  the  Oasis  of  Firan,  at  the 
base  of  the  Serbal.  The  granite  slopes,  flanking  the  valley,  are  not 
far  apart  at  places,  while  in  other  parts  the  valley  expands  to  a  con- 
siderable width.  The  grey  primitive  rock,  veined  with  reddish-brown 
porphyry  and  black  diorite,  rises  in  picturesque  forms ;  these  veins 
run  almost  invariably  from  N.  to  S.  The  picturesqueness  of  the 
scene  is  greatly  enhanced  by  the  imposing  summits  of  the  barren 
mountains  towering  above  the  slopes  of  the  valley  to  the  south. 
At  the  entrance  of  the  valley,  where  at  the  foot  of  the  Jebel  Nesrin 
the  small  Wddi  Nesrm  opens  on  the  left,  are  several  ancient  tombs. 
On  our  right  next  diverges  the  Wddi  Nedlyeh,  on  the  left  the  Wddi 
cr-llemmdneh  and  the  Wddi  Mokheires,  and  to  the  right  again  the 
Wddi  el-Fesheiheh,  the  last  two  being  commanded  by  peaks  of  the 
same  names.  The  next  valleys  on  the  right  are  the  Wddis  ed-Deir, 
Nehbdn,   FA-  Tarr,   and  Abu  Gerrdydt ;  and  opposite  the  last  opens 


192    Route  22.  PENINSULA  OF  SINAI. 


From  Suez 


the  Wadi  Koseir.  A  little  before  reaching  the  oasis  we  pass  a  rock 
called  the  Hesi  el-Khatt&tin,  which  is  entirely  covered  with  small 
stones.  According  to  the  Beduins  this  rock  is  the  one  which  yielded 
water  when  struck  by  Moses  (comp.  p.  205). 

The  plants  of  the  desert  now  occur  more  frequently,  and  are  of 
more  vigorous  growth  ;  bushes  of  tamarisk,  the  nebk,  the  seyal,  and 
palm-trees,  make  their  appearance,  and  the  scene  is  enlivened  by 
the  notes  of  birds.  With  feelings  of  unmitigated  delight,  after  a  hot 
journey  of  more  than  5  hrs.  in  the  Wadi  Firan,  we  enter  the  Oasis 
of  Firan,  the  'Pearl  of  Sinai',  and  by  far  the  most  fertile  tract  In  the 
whole  peninsula.  We  first  reach  the  dale  of  El-Hesweh,  a  few 
hundred  paces  only  in  length,  watered  by  an  inexhaustible  brook 
which  is  suddenly  swallowed  up  by  the  earth  here.  The  gardens  are 
watered  by  means  of  shadufs  or  buckets ;  the  dates  grown  here  are 
celebrated.  On  the  roadside,  and  on  the  left  slope  of  the  valley,  are 
Beduin  huts,  gardens,  and  the  ruins  of  stone  houses,  dating  from  the 
time  of  the  ancient  Pharan  (p.  193).  In  i/i}\r.  more  we  reach  a  second 
small  group  of  palms,  and  lor  a  few  minutes  we  obtain  a  view  of  the 
W.  side  of  Mount  Serbal.  In  20  min.  more  we  reach  a  wider  part 
of  the  valley,  in  which  the  rocky  and  isolated  hill  of  El-Meharret 
rises  to  a  height  of  about  100  ft.,  bearing  on  its  summit  the  traces  of 
an  early  Christian  monastery  and  church.  Exactly  opposite  the  ruin 
of  the  monastery  the  traveller  should  notice  a  very  curious  geological 
formation,  consisting  of  a  vein  of  green  diorite  in  flesh-coloured 
porphyry,  which  is  in  its  turn  imbedded  in  grey-green  mica-slate. 
The  largest  fragment  of  the  ruins,  called  Hererdt  el-Kebir,  stands 
on  the  summit  of  the  hill  which  the  Beduins  regard  as  the  spot 
where  Moses  prayed  during  the  battle  with  the  Amalekites  (Exo- 
dus xvii.  10),  and  at  its  base  the  relics  of  a  large  church  are  still 
traceable.  Fragments  of  columns  and  ornaments,  which  once  be- 
longed to  it,  arc  to  be  found  built  into  the  walls  of  the  houses. 
The  Wudis  Ejcleh  and  'Aleydt,  valleys  diverging  here,  are  watered 
in  winter  by  streams  from  the  mountains  which  are  sometimes 
covered  with  snow.  The  best  camping-ground  is  a  little  to  the  E. 
of  the  entrance  to  the  Wadi  'Aleyat,  and  in  such  a  position  as  to 
command  a  view  of  the  pinnacled  summit  of  Mt.  Serbal  (p.  193). 

Leaving  the  hill  of  El-Meharret  (see  above),  we  proceed  towards 
the  N.E.  under  palm-trees.  The  ground  becomes  soft,  and  is  carpeted 
with  turf,  moss,  and  reeds,  interspersed  with  blue  and  red  flowers. 
We  pass  rich  fields  of  wheat,  besides  tobacco  and  other  industrial 
crops ;  the  bushes  are  enlivened  by  birds.  After  1  hr.  the  palm 
trees  cease,  and  are  succeeded  by  a  thicket  of  tarfa  shrubs,  which 
we  traverse  in  J/4  hr.  Many  of  these  shrubs  assume  the  form  of 
trees,  272~3  ft.  in  circumference.  From  the  end  of  April  to  June 
the  tarfa  plants  yield  the  well-known  Manna.  Minute  holes  aTe 
bored  in  the  line  bark  of  the  thin,  brown  twigs,  by  an  insect  (Coccus 
manniparus)  which  was  first  observed  by  Ehrenberg,  and  from  the 


to  Sinai. 


PENINSULA  OF  SINAI.         22.  Route.    193 


almost  invisible  openings  issues  a  transparent  drop  of  juice,  which 
then  falls  off  and  hardens  in  the  sand.  This  sweet  gum,  resembling 
honey,  is  collected  by  the  monks  of  Sinai  and  sold  to  pilgrims. 

The  Oasis  of  Firfm  was  originally  a  lake,  as  is  proved  by  the  deposits 
of  earth,  60-100  ft.  in  height,  in  the  angles  of  the  valley.  After  the  barrier 
at  Hererat  had  been  removed,  the  brook  still  remained  as  a  relic  of  the 
ancient  lake,  and  its  sudden  appearance  and  equally  sudden  disappearance 
in  the  rock  at  El-Hesweh,  were  a  constant  source  of  wonder  to  the  vivid 
imagination  of  the  inhabitants  of  the  desert.  —  Eusebius  identifies  the 
oasis  as  the  scene  of  the  great  battle  between  the  Amalekites  and  the 
Israelites  (Rephidim,  Ex.  xvii.  8  et  seq. ;  comp.  p.  1S2).  In  the  2nd  cent.  A.D. 
Claudius  Ptolemseus  speaks  of  the  town  of  Pharan,  which  soon  became  an 
episcopal  see  and  the  central  point  of  the  monastic  and  anchorite  frater- 
nities of  the  peninsula.  Remains  of  old  monasteries  and  hermits'  cells 
are  nowhere  more  numerous  than  here  and  on  the  rocky  slopes  and  plateaux 
of  the  Serbal.  The  council  of  Chalcedon  accorded  to  the  oasis  an  arch- 
bishop of  its  own,  who,  however,  was  subordinate  to  the  recently  founded 
patriarchate  of  Jerusalem.  The  Romans  were  nominally  masters  of  Pharan, 
tut  in  reality  it  was  subject  to  the  sway  of  the  Saracen  princes;  and  one  of 
these,  named  Abokharabos,  presented  it  to  Justinian,  who,  as  a  reward, 
appointed  him  phylarch  of  the  Saracens  of  Palestine.  Early  in  the  5th 
cent,  the  monks  and  anchorites  of  Pharan  began  to  embrace  heretical 
principles,  and  we  frequently  hear  of  admonitions  and  tflreats  directed 
by  the  orthodox  synods  and  the  Emperors  against  them  as  Monothelites 
and  Jlonophysites. 

The  most  conspicuous  of  the  hills  visible  hence  is  the  Jebel 
et-Tdhuneh  (or  Mill  Mountain),  rising  above  the  bed  of  the  valley 
to  a  height  of  700  ft.,  and  crowned  with  the  ruin  of  a  handsome 
church.  The  steep  path  ascending  to  it  is  flanked  with  the  remains 
of  ancient  chapels ;  and  near  it  are  many  houses  built  of  loose  stones. 
The  windows  of  these  look  towards  the  outside,  and  not  into  the 
court  according  to  Oriental  usage.  Farther  to  the  N.  rises  the  lofty 
Jelel  el-Bint  (4915  ft.),  or  'Mountain  of  the  Virgin'.  It  is  probably 
so  called  from  a  chapel  of  the  Virgin  situated  on  its  summit.  — 
On  the  N.  side  of  the  valley  are  numerous  tombs,  where  the  bodies 
had  been  buried  in  a  line  from  E.  to  W.,  in  coarse  shrouds  and 
coffins,  of  which  traces  remained  when  rediscovered  by  Palmer. 

Mount  Serb&l  (G730  ft.)  rises  to  the  S.  of  the  Oasis  of  Firan  in 
the  form  of  a  broad,  serrated  pyramid.  It  was  regarded  by  Eusebius 
and  other  old  authorities  as  the  Sinai  of  Scripture  (comp.  p.  185). 
The  ascent  is  difficult  and  fatiguing,  and  should  not  be  attempted, 
without  guides.  The  expedition  takes  a  whole  day  (the  ascent 
6  hrs.).  Strong  boots  are  essential.  The  route  leads  first  through 
the  Wddi  'Aleydt  on  the  N.W.  side,  traversing  ridges  of  rocks, 
hollows,  and  ravines,  and  small  plains  watered  with  springs  and 
richly  clothed  with  vegetation.  It  passes  several  cells  of  anchorites 
and  traces  of  walls,  and  then,  for  3  hrs.,  ascends  rapidly  through 
the  Wddi  Abu  Hamad.  The  highest  of  the  Ave  peaks  which  form 
the  summit  of  Mt.  Serbal,  and  which  are  separated  by  deep  ravines 
and  chasms,  is  called  El-Medauwa  (the  'beacon-house').  Its  ascent 
(aU  '"*•)  should  not  be  attempted  by  persons  inclined  to  giddiness. 
Free  use  should  be  made  of  the  guide's  assistance.    The  traveller 


194    Route  22.  PENINSULA  OF  SINAI.         7.  From  Suez 


should  observe  the  caverns  in  the  rock  which  were  once  occupied  by 
hermits,  the  ruins  of  their  huts,  the  Sinaitic  inscriptions,  and  the 
traces  of  old  paths  and  of  a  flight  of  steps,  particularly  near  the  sum- 
mit. On  the  lower  terrace  of  the  peak  is  an  artificial  circle  of  stones. 
The  "Vikw  from  the  summit  is  very  imposing;  towards  three  points  of 
the  compass  the  prospect  is  unimpeded,  but  towards  the  S.  it  is  concealed 
by  the  intervening  pinnacles  of  the  higher  fllusa  group.  Towards  the  E.  we 
survey  the  Bay  of  rAkaba;  towards  the  N.  lies  the  interminable  desert 
plateau  of  Till,  stretching  to  the  distant  heights  of  Petru  ;  and  towards  the 
W.  are  the  Gulf  of  Suez,  and  the  hills  between  the  Nile  and  the  Red  Sea. 
'Every  detail  of  these  remarkable  formations  is  distinctly  visible  hence. 
The  wfidis,  including  the  long,  crescent-shaped  "Wudi  e*h-Sheikh,  are  seen 
turning  and  winding  in  every  direction.  The  innumerable  hills  stand  forth 
in  prominent  relief,  with  well  defined  colours;  the  dark  granite,  the  brown 
sandstone,  the  yellow  desert,  the  strips  of  vegetation  Hanking  the  Wadi 
FirSn,  and  the  solitary  green  spot  occupied  by  the  large,  groups  of  palms 
of  Eephidim  (assuming  its  identity  to  be  established)  are  all  surveyed  at 
a  glance'. 

Adjoining  the  rocky  slopes  on  the  left  rise  numerous  tent- 
shaped  mounds  of  earth,  upwards  of  100  ft.  in  height,  which  Fraas 
takes  to  be  the  remains  of  ancient  moraines.  After  '/j  ',r-  the 
y/ddi  el-Akhdar  (p.  207),  leading  towards  the  K.,  diverges  to  the 
left.  Opposite  to  it  opens  the  Wadi  Itattameh,  to  the  right  (W.) 
of  which  rises  a  hill,  called  the  Jebel  el-Mundja,  i.e.  'Mountain  of 
the  Conversation'  (between  God  and  Moses).  The  Arabs  still  offer 
sacrifices  here  to  Moses  within  a  circle  of  stones  on  the  summit  of 
the  hill,  singing  —  '0  mountain  of  the  conversation  of  Moses,  we 
seek  thy  favour;  preserve  thy  good  people,  and  we  will  visit  thee 
every  year'.  Farther  to  the  E.  we  reach  in  '/4  fir.  the  defile  of 
El-Buweib,  i.e.  little  gate,  or  El-Bdb,  i.e.  gate,  where  the  valley 
contracts  to  a  width  of  about  20  ft.   The  Wadi  Firan  terminates  here. 

Two  routes  lead  from  El-Buweib  to  the  Sinai  monastery.  The 
easier,  through  the  Wadi  esh-Sheikh  (11  hrs.  to  the  monastery), 
is  more  suitable  for  the  return-journey  (comp.  pp.  206  etseq.);  the 
other  (10^2  nrs-  to  the  monastery),  rougher  but  more  picturesque, 
leads  across  the  Nakb  el-Hawi.  We  select  the  second  of  these  routes. 

We  quit  the  Wadi  esh-Sheikh  at  (!/4  hr.)  the  entrance  to  the 
monotonous  W&di  Sel&f,  through  which  our  route  runs  for  nearly 
0  hrs.  On  the  right  opens  the  Wadi  er-Rimm,  ascending  to  Mt. 
Serbal,  and  on  the  same  side  the  Wadi  Vmm  Tdkha,  containing 
several  curious  stone  huts  in  the  form  of  beehives,  called  'nawamis', 
to  which  the  absurd  tradition  (arising  from  the  similarity  of  the 
Arabic  words  for  'flies'  and  'tombs')  attaches  that  the  Israelites 
sought  refuge  in  them  from  tormenting  flies.  In  2  hrs.  we  reach 
the  Wadi  'Ejdwi,  through  which  the  road  from  Tur  (p.  196)  on  the 
Red  Sea  joins  our  route  from  the  S.W.  Mt.  Serb!]  now  at  length  be- 
comes visible  in  all  its  majesty,  and  remains  in  sight  behind  us 
for  V'2nr-  We  pass  the  Wadi  Abu  Tdlib  to  the  left,  at  the  entrance 
of  which  the  prophet  Mohammed,  on  his  way  to  Syria  (Sham)  in 
the  service  of  his  uncle  Abu  Talib,   is  said  to  have  rested.    Several 


to  Sinai. 


PENINSULA  OF  SINAI.         22.  Route.    195 


other  small  wadis  are  passed  on  the  right  and  left.  At  the  upper 
end  of  the  Wadi  Selaf  there  is  a  good  camping-place,  commanding 
a  fine  distant  view  of  Mt.  Serbal. 

At  this  point  hegins  the  ascent  of  the  Nakb  el-Hawi  Defile 
(4930  ft.),  occupying  272  hrs.  The  camels  progress  very  slowly,  so 
that  the  traveller  will  find  it  pleasanter  to  dismount,  and  walk  up 
the  hill.  The  granite  rocks  on  each  side,  weathered  into  singularly 
fantastic  forms,  are  upwards  of  800  ft.  in  height.  The  camel- 
path  skirts  the  cliffs  which  hound  the  gorge,  through  which  the 
winter-torrents  often  run  so  violently  as  to  carry  everything  before 
them.  The  last  part  of  the  ascent  is  less  precipitous,  and  we  now 
observe  a  few  traces  of  vegetation.  The  rocks  here  also  bear  some 
Sinaitic  inscriptions  (p.  191).  At  the  upper  end  of  the  defile  the 
barren  cliffs  of  the  Sinai  group  (p.  203)  become  visible,  the  Ras 
cs-Safsaf  (p.  204)  making  an  especially  impressive  appearance. 

Our  route  now  traverses  the  mountain-girt  Plain  of  Er-Raha, 
which  commentators  regard  as  the  camping-place  of  the  Israelites 
while  waiting  for  the  promulgation  of  the  law  (comp.  p.  206). 
A  dark-green  spot,  in  which  antimony  is  probably  to  be  found,  is 
called  Kohli  after  that  mineral.  A  block  of  rock  (perhaps  an  old 
boundary  stone),  at  the  beginning  of  the  plain,  bearing  peculiar 
marks,  is  the  subject  of  an  Arabian  tradition,  to  the  effect  that 
the  Gindi  tribe  struck  their  lances  into  this  block  in  token  of 
confirmation  of  the  oath  of  their  sheikh  that  the  monks  should 
never  pass  this  stone.  About  l'/2  hr.  after  leaving  the  summit  of 
the  Nakb  el-  Hawi  we  pass,  on  the  left,  the  mouth  of  the  Wadi 
esh-Sheikh  (p.  206),  which  is  commanded  by  the  Jebel  ed-Deir 
(p.  206)  on  the  E.  The  gorge,  called  the  Wadi  ed-Deir,  or  the  Wadi 
Shu'ail  (valley  of  Jethro),  ascending  gradually,  and  closed  by  the 
hill  of  Munaja,  opens  before  us.  To  the  left'of  its  entrance  rises  the 
hill  of  Hdrun,  on  the  summit  of  which  Aaron  (Harun)  is  said  to 
have  set  up  the  golden  calf.  In  the  vicinity  are  the  remains  of 
stone  huts.  We  enter  the  Shu'aib  valley,  flanked  by  enormous  cliffs 
of  reddish-brown  granite,  towering  to  a  dizzy  height.  In  l/a  hr. 
more  we  reach  the  terraces  of  the  green  garden  of  the  Monastery  of 
St.  Catharine  (p.  199),  which  lies  to  the  right  of  the  path. 


2.  From  Suez  by  Sea  to  Tur,  and  thence  to  Mt.  Sinai. 

The  route  via  Tur  (5-6  days)  is  of  importance  mainly  for  those 
travellers  who  can  speak  Araliic  and  have  had  sufficient  experience  to  lie 
able  to  procure  camels  for  themselves  in  Tur.  All  provisions  and  other 
necessaries  for  the  journey  must  be  brought  from  Cairo  (comp.  p.  184). 
Parties  accompanied  by  a  dragoman  must  send  on  the  camels  from  Suez 
to  Tur  in  advance,  a  journey  which  occupies  them  three  days. 

'The  First  Two  Dats  are  occupied  by  the  sea-voyage  to  THr.  We  hire 
the  boat  (with  4  boatmen,  ca.  126  fr.)  in  Suez  with  the  aid  of  the  British 
Consul.  The  master  of  the  vessel  should  be  required  to  provide  himself 
with  the  necessary  ship's  documents.  At  the  time  of  the  Mecca  pilgrim- 
ages (p.  196)  the  steamers  may  be  used.    The  afternoon  of  the  second  day 


mmmmm  ■ 


196   Houte  22.         PENINSULA  OF  SINAI.     2.  From  Suez  to 


and  the  Thibd  Day  are  occupied  with  the  excursion  to  the  Jebel  Ndkdt 
(p.  197),  and  with  the  preparation  for  the  continuation  of  the  journey. 
Camels  are  always  to  be  had  in  Tur,  but  good  saddles  are  rare.  Travellers 
who  can  speak  Arabic  or  modern  Greek  will  find  the  letter  of  introduction 
to  the  convent  on  Mt.  Sinai  (p.  184)  also  of  use  with  the  monks  at  Tiir.  — 
The  Foubth,  Fifth,  and  Sixth  Days  are  occupied  by  the  land  journey  to 
Sinai.  This  may  be  made  either  via  the  Wddi  et-Slei  (p.  197),  or  more 
conveniently  via  the  Wddi  Hebrdn  (p.  198;  9  hrs.),  and  then  via  the  Wddi 
Selaf  (p.  194;  10  hrs.)  and  the  plain  of  Er-Rdha  (p.  195)  to  the  /Sinai 
Monastery  (572  hrs). 

Sea  Voyage  to  Tub  (15-30  hrs.).  —  The  start  from  Suez  (see 
Baedeker's  Egypt)  is  usually  made  towards  evening.  On  the  right 
rises  the  Jebel  'Ataka  (p.  186),  with  the  promontory  of  the  same 
name,  and  to  the  left  are  the  palms  of  'Ayiin  Musa  (p.  186),  beyond 
which  is  the  low  chain  of  the  Jebel  et-Tih  (p.  184).  Farther  on,  to 
the  right,  in  the  foreground,,  is  the  lighthouse  of  Rds  Za'ferdneh, 
opposite  to  which,  on  the  left,  is  the  Jebel  JJammdm  Far'un  (sec 
p.  188),  abutting  on  the  sea.  The  bay  expands.  To  the  right,  in 
the  foreground,  rises  the  huge  and  picturesque  Jebel  Ohdrib  (about 
5900  ft.  in  height),  at  the  foot  of  which  is  a  second  lighthouse.  On 
the  left  arc  the  conical  peaks  of  the  Jebel  el-Araba,  the  base  of 
which  we  now  skirt.  Beyond  the  Jebel  Gharib,  which  becomes  more 
and  more  prominent,  rises  the  tableland  of  Jebel  ez-Zeit,  which  yields 
petroleum.  The  chain  of  Jebel  el-'Araba  is  prolonged  by  the  sandy 
Jebel  Ndkus  (p.  197),  and  the  Jebel  Hammdm  Sidna  Musd  (see  below). 
We  at  length  come  in  sight  of  the  palm-groves  and  buildings  of  Tur, 
beyond  which  lies  the  sterile  desert  of  El-Kd'a  (p.  197);  above  the 
latter  tower  the  imposing  mountains  of  Serbdl  (p.  193)  on  the  left, 
and  of  TJmm  Shomar  on  the  right,  between  which  appear  the 
mountains  of  Sinai. 

Tur  affords  the  only  good  anchorage  in  this  part  of  the  Red  Sea, 
besides  Suez.  The  harbour  is  admirably  protected  by  coral  reefs, 
which,  however,  are  dangerous  to  those  unaeqainted  with  their 
situation.  Excellent  fish,  numerous  shells,  and  interesting  marine 
animals  abound  here.  Tur  is  the  chief  quarantine  station  of  the 
Mecca  pilgrims.  On  the  arrival  of  the  pilgrims  the  desert  to  the  S. 
of  Tur  presents  a  scene  of  great  animation.  Long  rows  of  tents, 
arranged  in  groups,  afford  ample  accommodation  for  the  largest 
concourse  of  pilgrims,  while  the  throng  is  swelled  by  traders  from 
Suez  and  Cairo,  who  sell  their  inferior  wares  at  the  most  exorbi- 
tant prices.  On  the  side  next  Tur  is  the  camp  of  the  soldiers  who 
maintain  the  quarantine. 

To  the  N.  of  the  town  the  Jebel  Hammdm  Sidnd  Mtisd  ('Moun- 
tain of  the  Baths  of  our  Lord  Moses' ;  ca.  395  ft. ),  a  spur  of  the  low 
range  of  coast-hills,  projects  Into  the  soa.  At  the  foot  of  this  hill 
lie  sulphur-springs  of  the  temperature  of  81-83°,  which  are  used 
by  the  natives  chiefly  as  a  cure  for  rheumatism.  The  Kal'at  et-Tur, 
a  castle  erected  by  Sultan  Murad,  is  in  a  dilapidated  condition.  Most 
of  the  palm-plantations  belong  to  the  monks  of  Mt.  Sinai,   and  are 


lur  and  Sinai.        PENINSULA  OF  SINAI.      22.  Route.    197 


managed  by  their  servants.  The  Greek  Convent  at  Tur,  which  is 
connected  with  the  Sinai  Monastery,  is  modern  and  uninteresting. 
The  caravans  between  the  sea  and  the  monastery  are  conducted 
by  the  Beduins  of  the  convent. 

About  a  mile  to  the  N.W.  of  the  town  lies  the  palm-garden  of  El-Wddi. 
In  the  limestone  slopes  of  the  Jebel  Hammam  Sidna  Musa  (p.  196)  are 
numerous  dilapidated  hermitages,  with  Christian  crosses,  and  several  Greek 
and  Armenian  inscriptions,  dating  from  A.D.  633.  To  the  N.  rises  the 
Jebel  Mokatteb.  which  boasts  of  several  Sinaitic  inscriptions  (p.  191). 

A  visit  should  be  paid  to  the  Jebel  Nakiis,  or  'Bell  Mountain',  4>/2  hrs. 
distant  by  camel  from  Tur  and  about  1  SI.  "from  the  shore  of  the  Red  Sea. 
On  ascending,  in  dry  weather,  we  hear  a  peculiar  sound,  resembling  that 
of  distant  bells,  which  gradually  increases  until  it  terminates  in  a  strange 
kind  of  roar.  This  phenomenon  is  caused  by  the  sand  falling  into  the 
clefts  of  the  sandstone  rock  on  which  it  lies.  The  Arabs  believe  that  the 
sounds  proceed  from  a  monastery  buried  under  the  sand. 

From  Ttjr  to  Mt.  Sinai  there  arc  two  routes ,  one  through  the 
Wadi  Hebran  (p.  198),  the  other  through  the  Wadi  es-Slei.  The  start 
should  be  made  at  a  very  early  hour,  in  order  that  the  desert  El- 
Ka'a,  which  forms  the  first  part  of  each  route,  may  be  crossed  before 
the  heat  of  the  day.  The  route  to  the  Wadi  es-Slei  leads  to  the  E., 
through  the  gradually  ascending  desert,  in  the  direction  of  the  huge 
Jebel  Umm  Shomar  (p.  206).  On  reaching  (ca.  6  hrs.)  the  base  of  the 
mountain,  we  descend  very  rapidly  into  a  basin  resembling  the  bed 
of  a  lake,  which  has  been  formed  by  the  mountain-torrent  issuing 
from  the  Wadi  es-Slei.  At  the  bottom  of  this  basin  we  enter  the 
narrow,  rocky  defile  of  the  W&di  es-Slei,  one  of  the  most  romantic 
ravines  in  the  whole  peninsula.  After  ascending  this  gorge  with 
its  turbulent  brook  for  half-an-hour  we  reach  a  charming  resting- 
place  where  there  is  excellent  water.  The  brook  sometimes  disap- 
pears altogether  in  the  upper  parts  of  the  valley ,  but  there  is 
water  enough  everywhere  to  support  the  vegetation ,  which  is  very 
luxuriant  at  places.  Palms  and  numerous  tamarisks  thrive  in  the 
lower  part  of  the  valley.  The  rider  must  dismount  at  the  most  dif- 
ficult parts  of  the  ravine  as  he  proceeds.  About  ll/%  nr-  fr°m  *he 
entrance  of  the  valley  the  route  divides ,  and  we  turn  to  the  left. 
At  the  next  bifurcation,  10  min.  farther  on,  our  route  leads  to 
the  right.  We  enter  a  rocky  gorge  which  alternately  contracts 
and  expands.  We  pass  a  few  palm-trees,  many  tamarisks,  So- 
laneae,  and  thickets  of  reed.  At  the  next  bifurcation  (1  hr.)  we 
turn  to  the  right.  We  pass  (20  min.)  the  precipitous  bed  of  a 
torrent  on  the  right,  and  then  a  second  descending  from  a  curious- 
looking  hill  crowned  with  a  huge  mass  of  rock.  The  valley,  which 
now  takes  the  name  of  Wadi  Tarfa,  becomes  wilder  and  more 
barren.  After  5-6  hrs.  we  enter  the  broad  Wadi  Rahabeh,  and 
traverse  an  open  and  undulating  basin  for  6  hrs.  more,  first  towards 
the  N.E.  and  then  towards  the  N.W.,  and  at  length  reach  the 
Wddi  Sebd'iyeh  (p.  206),  at  the  S.E.  base  of  the  Jebel  Musd.  [To- 
wards the  N.  the  Wadi  Seba'iych  is  connected  with  the  Wadi  esh- 
Sheikh  by  the  Wddi  es-Sadad ;  comp.  p.  206.]  A  saddle  of  moderate 


198  Route  22.  PENINSULA  OF  SINAI.  2.  From  Suez  to  Sinai. 

height  separates  the  Wadi  Seba'iyeh  from  theWadi  ed-Deir  (p.  195). 
To  the  left,  on  the  precipitous  Jehel  Alusa,  we  perceive  the  zigzags 
of  the  road  constructed  hy  r  Abbas  I.  Pasha  (p.  202).  We  at  length 
descend  the  narrow  Wddi  ed-Deir  (Shu'uib),  and  reach  the  Monastery 
of  St.  Catharine  (see  below). 

The  route  via  the  Wadi  Hebran  leads  to  the  N.  from  Tur,  ascend- 
ing a  gradual  slope  with  a  saline  soil  to  ( 1  hr.)  Umm  Sa'ad,  where 
a  spring  of  fresh  water  affords  support  to  a  few  families.  The 
water-skins  should  he  filled  here.  We  now  follow  the  road  of  "Abbas 
Pasha  (comp.  p.  202),  which  crosses  the  desert  of  Ei-Kd'a.  For  the 
first  hour  or  two  we  pass  a  number  of  dum-palms,  but  these  also  at 
length  disappear.  A  single  seyal-tree  stands  about  halfway,  but 
otherwise  we  are  surrounded  by  the  hot  desert,  which  is  at  first 
covered  with  fine  sand,  afterwards  with  rubble,  and  at  length  with 
enormous  blocks  of  stone.  The  Wadi  Hebran  is  reached  in  7-8  hrs. 
from  Umm  Sa'ad.  At  the  point  where  it  issues  from  the  mountains 
it  is  a  deep  and  very  narrow  rocky  ravine,  through  which  water  runs 
during  most  of  the  year.  A  rocky  recess  close  to  the  entrance  affords 
quarters  for  the  first  night. 

The  route  continues  to  follow  the  unfinished  road,  which  winds 
upwards  through  the  Wadi  Hebran.  The  formation  is  granite,  in 
which  syenite  predominates;  it  contains  thick  veins  of  hornblende, 
greenstone,  and  various  kinds  of  basalt.  The  brook  is  bordered  with 
vegetation.  A  number  of  Sinaitic  inscriptions  (p.  191)  are  passed. 
After  l3/4  hr.  the  valley  divides,  and  the  road  of  'Abbas  Pasha  leads 
to  the  N.  At  a  second  bifurcation  (_3/4hr.)  the  valley  expands,  and  in 
'/2hr.  more  we  reach  a  clear  and  abundant  spring,  but  disagreeably 
warm.  The  tarfa  bushes  and  palms  here  form  an  impenetrable 
thicket.  Water  now  disappears  (10  min.),  the  vegetation  becomes 
scantier,  and  we  cross  the  precipitous  Nakb  ei-'£/aiPi(3286ft.).  Our 
quarters  for  the  second  night  are  near  the  Wddi  Seldf(j>.  194),  where 
we  reach  the  route  from  Suez  to  Alt.  Sinai  (pp.  186-195).  On  the 
third  day  we  arrive  at  the  Monastery  of  St.  Catharine  (see  below"). 


3.    Monastery  of  St.  Catharine  on  Ht.  Sinai  and  its  Environs. 

Accommodation.  The  traveller  presents  his  letter  of  introduction  (p.  184) 
and  is  admitted  by  a  side-door.  The  Beduins  and  camels  remain  outside. 
The  monastery  contains  visitors1  rooms,  beds,  sofas,  and  a  kitchen.  The 
dragoman  must  make  his  own  bargain  with  the  monks,  to  whom  the  traveller 
may  afterwards  present  a  gift  on  his  own  account.  Those  who  have  to  pay 
their  own  expenses  are  generally  charged  at  least  4  shillings  a  day  each  for 
lodging  alone.  It  is  healthier  during  the  cold  nights  in  these  mountains 
in  spring,  as  well  as  more  interesting,  to  lodge  in  the  monastery ;  but  the 
traveller  will  find  it  more  independent  and  less  expensive  to  camp  in  some 
suitable  spot  in  the  lower  Wadi  Shu'aib.  —  The  Jebeliyeh  (p.  199),  as 
the  servants  of  the  monks  are  called,  are  excellent  guides  for  the  excursions 
described  at  pp.  202  et  seq.,  and  will  accompany  the  traveller  for  a  trifling 
fee,  carrying  the  necessary  provisions. 

History  of  the  Monastery.  The  Monastery  of  St.  Catharine  occupies 
the  site  of  a  fort,  built  by  Justinian  in  527  A.D.,  under  the  protection  of 


■■ 


ENVmOHTS  of  the  MONASTERY  OF  MT  SINAI  and  of  the  JEBEL  MtTSA 

=SEngl.JEU  Scale,  1:50.000  1 fin  i         tllf  T"  ""Pirn 


Dra-wn  by  !T.Kiepert 


Geograpb.lnstit.  of  Wa&ner  tDrtes, Leipzig 


■Ml 


3.  Monastery.        PENINSULA  OF  SINAI.        22.  Route.    199 

which  all  the  anchorites  of  Mt.  Serbal  gradually  congregated  (comp.  p.  1931. 
The  monks  were  greatly  benefited  by  a  gift  from  Justinian  of  a  hundred 
Roman,  and  a  hundred  Egyptian  slaves,  with  their  wives  and  children. 
From  these  retainers  are  descended  the  Jebeliyeh,  who  still  render  service 
to  the  monks,  but  are  despised  by  the  Beduins  and  stigmatized  as  'Nazar- 
enes'  and  'fellahin',  in  spite  of  the  fact  that  they  have  all  embraced  Is- 
lam. The  shrewd  monks  contrived  to  ward  off  their  Mohammedan  perse- 
cutors, partly  by  displaying  an  alleged  letter  of  protection  from  Mohammed, 
to  whom  they  had  accorded  a  hospitable  reception  on  one  of  his  journeys, 
partly  by  their  hospitality  to  pilgrims,  and  partly  also  by  their  care  of 
spots  held  sacred  by  the  Muslims.  The  safety  of  the  monks,  who  belong 
to  the  Greek  Orthodox  church,  is  now  perfectly  insured,  owing  to  the 
protection  of  Russia.  Formerly  the  monastery  is  said  to  have  contained 
3-400  inmates,  but  the  number  is  now  reduced  to  20-30  only,  who  are 
chiefly  natives  of  Crete  and  Cyprus.  There  are  offshoots  of  the  monastery 
scattered  all  over  the  East.  —  The  Monastic  Rule  is  very  strict.  The 
monks  are  prohibited  from  partaking  of  meat  or  wine ;  but  they  are 
permitted  to  drink  an  excellent  liqueur  which  they  prepare  from  dates 
('Araki).  The  monastery  is  presided  over  by  an  archbishop,  who  when 
absent  is  represented  by  a  prior  or  wekil,  but  the  affairs  of  the  monastery 
are  actually  managed  by  an  intendant  ('oikonomos,J. 

The  Monastery  of  St.  Catharine  lies  501*2  ft.  above  the  sea- 
level,  on  the  N.E.  granite  slopes  of  the  Jelel  MusCi  (p.  203),  in  the 
Wddi  Shu'aib  (p.  198).  The  monastery  consists  of  a  very  irregular 
and  heterogeneous  pile  of  buildings,  enclosed  by  a  high  wall.  Most 
of  these  structures  abut  on  the  protecting  wall,  but  the  church, 
mosque,  library,  and  residence  of  the  prior  stand  in  the  middle  of 
the  enclosure.  The  apartments  occupied  by  the  monks,  pilgrims, 
and  travellers  are  situated  on  the  first  floor  of  the  houses,  which  are 
only  one  room  in  depth,  their  doors  being  connected  by  a  long 
wooden  gallery.  The  whitewashed  walls  bear  numerous  Greek  in- 
scriptions, some  of  which  were  written  by  a  monk  of  Athos,  named 
Cyril,  who  was  formerly  librarian  here.  The  different  buildings  are 
separated  by  small  courts.  The  low  buildings  are  commanded  by 
a  lofty  cypress.  From  the  embrasures  in  the  walls  and  ramparts  a 
few  small  cannons  still  frown  on  the  now  peaceful  'Saracens'.  The 
whole  is  dominated  by  the  lofty  tower  of  the  church.  The  wells 
yield  excellent  water,  particularly  one  in  a  shed  at  the  back  of  the 
church,  which  the  monks  point  out  as  the  one  at  which  Moses 
watered  the  flocks  of  Jethro's  daughters. 

The  Church  of  the  Transfiguration  is  an  early  Christian  ba- 
silica. The  exterior  is  uninteresting.  The  church  is  entered  by  a 
porch,  and  a  flight  of  steps  descending  beyond  it.  In  the  middle 
of  each  of  the  topmost  steps  is  a  letter  of  the  name  of  St.  James 
(I-A-K-Q-B-0-2).  —  We  first  enter  a  Vestibule  (narthex)  with  a 
Byzantine  window,  containing  a  large  modern  basin  for  holy  water, 
with  small  silver  eagles.  The  framework  of  the  door  leading  into 
the  nave  is  richly  decorated  and  the  panels  are  embellished  with 
old  pictures  in  enamel,  of  small  size. 

The  interior  of  the  basilica,  notwithstanding  the  lowncss  of  its 
aisles  and  the  superabundant  decoration ,  is  not  devoid  of  effect. 
Each  of  the  lofty  walls  bearing  the  entablature  of  the  nave  rests  on 


200  Route  22.         PENINSULA  OF  SINAI.         3.  Monastery. 

six  thick  columns  of  granite,  covered  with  stucco  and  painted  green, 
the  capitals  of  which  are  adorned  with  holdly  executed  foliage. 
The  ceiling  has  been  repainted,  and  divided  into  bright-coloured 
sections  containing  indifferent  medallion-figures  of  John  the  Baptist, 
the  Virgin  and  Child,  and  the  Saviour.  The  aisles  are  lighted  by  five 
Byzantine  windows  on  each  side,  and  are  covered  by  a  sloping  roof. 
The  pavement  is  of  coloured  marble.  On  the  left  side  of  the  nave 
is  a  marble  Pulpit  adorned  with  pleasing  miniatures,  which  was 
presented  to  the  church  in  1787.  On  the  right  is  the  Episcopal 
Throne,  dating  from  the  18th  century  and  interesting  on  account 
of  a  representation  of  the  monastery  at  that  period,  painted  by  an 
Armenian  artist.  The  inscription  repeats  the  erroneous  monkish 
tradition  that  the  monastery  was  founded  by  Justinian  (in  527 ; 
comp.  pp.  198, 198).  Between  eacii  pair  of  columns  are  rudely  carved 
choir- stalls.  From  the  ceiling  are  suspended  three  candelabra, 
which  are  lit  at  the  evening  service  and  made  to  swing  from  side 
to  side;  also  a  hundred  lamps  of  every  shape  and  size,  some  of 
which  are  made  of  ostriches'  eggs. 

The  raised  Tribuna  projects  into  the  nave  far  beyond  the  choir. 
A  wooden  screen  ('septum') ,  coloured  blue,  yellow ,  and  red,  and 
overladen  with  carving,  with  a  broad  gate  flanked  with  gilded  col- 
umns and  rich  ornamentation,  separates  the  choir  from  the  nave 
and  aisles.  The  painted  crucifix  reaches  to  the  ceiling.  The  cande- 
labra, placed  in  front  of  the  screen  and  covered  with  red  velvet, 
stand  on  very  ancient  bronze  lions  of  curious  workmanship ,  per- 
haps executed  before  the  Christian  era.  —  The  beautiful  rounded 
Apse  is  adorned  with  well-preserved  ^Mosaics  of  great  value, 
executed  by  European  artists  as  early  as  the  7th  or  8th  century. 
The  most  important  of  these  is  the  Transfiguration  of  Christ ,  in 
memory  of  which  the  church  was  originally  consecrated.  In  the 
centre  of  the  mosaic  the  figure  of  the  Saviour  soars  towards  heaven. 
Elijah,  the  prophet  of  Mt.  Sinai,  is  pointing  to  the  Messiah ;  St. 
John  kneels  at  the  feet  of  his  master;  Moses  points  to  the  latter  as 
the  fulflller  of  his  law,  and  St.  Peter  lies  on  the  ground,  while 
St.  James  is  kneeling.  Each  figure  is  accompanied  by  the  name  of 
the  person  it  represents.  A  kind  of  frame  is  formed  to  this  picture 
by  a  series  of  busts  of  prophets,  apostles,  and  saints  in  mosaic, 
admirably  executed.  Above  the  apse,  on  the  left,  Moses  kneels 
before  the  burning  bush;  on  the  right  he  stands  before  Mt.  Sinai, 
with  the  tables  of  the  law  in  his  hand.  Between  these  scenes  and 
the  arch  of  the  apse  hover  two  angels  adjoining  two  medallion-figures 
(perhaps  Moses  and  St.  Catharine),  which  the  monks  point  out  as 
portraits  of  Justinian  and  Theodora,  although  they  do  not  in  the 
least  resemble  other  portraits  of  the  emperor  and  his  wife. 

Among  the  sacred  utensils  in  the  choir  are  a  finely  executed 
Ciborium,  or  stand  for  the  communion  chalice,  and  a  short  marble 
sarcophagus  said  to  contain  the  head  and  one  hand  of  St.  Catharine  of 


3.  Monastery.       PENINSULA  OF  SINAI.         22.  Route.   201 

Alexandria,  who  is  specially  revered  by  the  Orthodox  Greeks.  Here, 
too,  is  shown  a  valuable  reliquary,  presented  by  Russian  Christians. 
The  head  of  St.  Catharine  rests  on  a  silver  pillow,  her  face  and 
hands  being  enamelled.  Another  similar  reliquary,  bearing  a  figure 
of  the  saint  in  silver-gilt,  was  given  by  the  Empress  Catharine. 

The  Chapel  of  the  Burning  Bush ,  at  the  back  of  the  apse, 
marking  the  spot  where  God  is  said  to  have  appeared  to  Moses,  is 
probably  the  oldest  part  of  the  structure.  Visitors  must  remove 
their  shoes  before  entering.  The  walls  are  covered  with  slabs  of 
porcelain.  The  spot  where  the  bush  is  said  to  have  stood  is 
indicated  by  a  plate  of  chased  silver;  over  it  is  placed  a  kind  of 
altar,  within  which  are  suspended  three  burning  lamps.  At  the 
back  of  this  sanctuary  is  a  small  niche  adorned  with  figures,  in  a 
line  with  the  apse,  the  semicircular  wall  of  which  encloses  the 
whole  E.  end  of  the  building.  A  ray  of  the  sun  is  said  to  enter 
this  sanctuary  once  a  year  only,  gaining  admission  through  a  cleft 
of  the  rock  on  the  E.  side  of  the  valley.  From  a  cross  erected  there 
the  hill  has  been  named  the  Jebel  es-Salib  ('hill  of  the  cross'). 

The  Chapels  surrounding  the  nave  are  dedicated  to  SS.  Anna, 
the  holy  martyrs  of  Sinai,  James,  Constantia  and  Helena,  Deme- 
trius and  Sergius.  Adjoining  the  right  aisle  of  the  basilica  are  the 
chapels  of  SS.  Simon  Stylites  and  Cosmas  and  Damianus ;  adjoin- 
ing the  left  aisle  are  those  of  SS.  Anna,  Marina,  and  Antipas.  — 
The  chapel  for  the  Latins,  near  the  visitors'  rooms,  is  now  disused, 
as  the  Roman  Catholics  no  longer  make  pilgrimages  to  this  monastery. 

Close  by  the  church  stands  the  Mosque,  which  was  erected  in 
the  14th  cent,  to  conciliate  the  Muslims.  It  is  a  building  of  simple 
construction,  in  bad  preservation.  —  The  stone  wall  of  an  out- 
building near  the  mosque  and  an  arch  between  the  mosque  and  the 
church  still  bear  several  coats-of-arms  in  the  early  mediaeval  style, 
perhaps  those  of  Crusaders. 

Opposite  is  the  Chapel  of  thb  Panagia,  which  contains  several 
portraits  of  bishops  and  archbishops  of  Sinai  and  a  large  model  of  a 
projected  reconstruction  of  the  monastery,  which  has  never  been 
carried  out,  since  the  property  of  the  convent  in  Russia  and  Wa- 
lachia  has  been  secularized. 

The  Library  of  the  monastery  was  arranged  in  suitable  rooms 
only  a  few  years  ago,  when  also  the  MSS.  were  catalogued. 

The  library  contains  a  great  many  Greek  and  Arabic  MSS.,  besides 
others  in  Syrian,  ./Ethiopian,  Persian,  Georgian,  Slavonic,  and  Russian. 
A  complete  catalogue  of  the  Greek  MSS.  by  Prof.  Gardthausen  of  Leipzig 
was  published  at  Oxford  in  1886,  and  one  of  the  Arabic  MSS.,  by  Gibson, 
at  London  in  1894.  The  chief  treasure  of  the  library  was  formerly  the 
famous  Codex  Sinailicus ,  discovered  by  Prof.  Tischendorf ,  a  Greek  MS. 
of  the  Bible,  dating  from  about  400  A.D.  and  surpassed  by  the  Codex 
Vaticanus  alone  in  age  and  authority.  Several  leaves  of  the  precious  MS.  arc. 
preserved  at  the  Leipzig  University  Library,  under  the  name  of  the  'Codex 
Friderico-Augustanus1,  but  the  greater  part  of  it  is  at  St.  Petersburg,  having 
been  purchased  from  the  monastery  by  Alexander  II.  for  8000  fr.  in  1869. 
Some  loose  pages  of  a  Greek  Bible  which  the  monks  show  do  not  belong, 


Environs  of 

as  they  assert,  to  the  Codex  Sinaiticus.  —  The  most  valuable  of  the  MS8. 
still  remaining  in  the  monastery  is  the  so-called  Codex  Syrsin,  the  oldest 
known  Syrian  translation  of  the  Bible.  It  is  unfortunately  very  incomplete, 
and  is  probably  taken  from  a  Greek  text  of  the  2nd  century.  It  was  found 
and  published  in  1893  by  Mrs.  Lewis  and  Mrs.  Gibson.  —  The  so-called 
Evangelium  Theodosianum,  a  collection  of  passages  from  the  New  Testament, 
is  described  without  any  ground  whatever  as  a  gift  of  the  Emp.  Theodosius 
(760  A. 1).),  and  in  all  likelihood  dues  not  date  farther  back  than  1000  A. D. 
It  is  written  on  white  parchment,  both  sides  of  each  sheet  having  two 
columns  in  golden  characters.  A  kind  of  frontispiece  is  formed  by  a  series 
of  elaborate  miniatures  of  Jesus,  Mary,  the  Evangelists,  and  St.  Peter.  The 
Psalterianum  Cassianum,  containing  the  whole  of  the  Psalms  written  in 
microscopical  characters  on  six  leaves,  was  not  executed  by  a  nun  of  the 
9th  cent.,  named  Cassia,  but  is  a  piece  of  laborious  trifling  dating  from 
the  period  of  the  Renaissance. 

On  the  N.  side  of  the  monastery  is  the  Burial  Plack,  consisting 
of  a  strongly  vaulted  crypt.  The  remains  of  the  bishops  are  preserved 
in  boxes,  and  those  of  the  priests  in  a  separate  part  of  the  vault, 
while  the  bones  and  skulls  of  the  monks  are  merely  piled  up  together. 
The  skeletons  of  several  highly  revered  hermits  are  suspended  from 
the  wall.  At  the  gate  of  the  priests'  vault  crouches  the  skeleton  of 
St.  Stephanos  (A.  580),  wearing  a  skull-cap  of  violet  velvet.  Not 
far  from  this  vault  is  a  well,  and  beyond  it  is  the  rarely  used  burial- 
ground  for  pilgrims  who  have  died  here. 

A  flight  of  steps  descends  from  this  court  to  the  *Garden,  the 
trees  of  which  blossom  most  luxuriantly  in  March  and  April, 
presenting  a  grateful  sight  in  the  midst  of  this  rocky  wilderness. 
It  is  laid  out  in  the  form  of  terraces ,  and  contains  peach-trees, 
orange-trees,  vines,  etc.,  overshadowed  by  some  lofty  cypresses. 

Into  the  wall  of  the  monastery  facing  the  garden  are  built  two  frag- 
ments of  marble  bearing  inscriptions,  one  in  Greek,  and  one  in  Arabic, 
both  referring  the  foundation  of  the  monastery  to  Justinian  (p.  200).  These, 
however,  date  from  the  12th  or  13th  century. 


Excursions  from  the  Sinai  Monastery. 

The  Ascent  of  the  Jebel  Musa.  occupies  3  hrs.,  and  presents 
no  trouble.  The  start  should  be  made  at  5  a.m.  or  earlier.  —  There 
are  two  main  routes  to  the  top.  One  of  these  is  an  unfinished  road, 
which  ascends  the  Wadi  Shu'aib,  and  was  begun  by  r  Abbas  I.  Pasha, 
who  had  planned  the  erection  of  a  summer-palace  at  the  top  of  the 
mountain  (comp.  p.  198).  The  other  ascends  the  interesting  but 
fatiguing  pilgrimage-steps,  said  to  have  been  constructed  by  the 
Empress  Helena,  but  more  probably  of  the  6th  or  7th  century. 

The  Pilgrimage  Steps  (which  according  to  Pococko  are  3000  in 
number)  begin  at  a  side-portal  in  the  W.  wall  of  the  convent,  and 
mount  the  bare  granite  on  the  W.  side  of  the  Wadi  Shuaib.  In 
20  min.  we  reach  a  small  spring  where,  according  tc  the  Arab3, 
Moses  once  tended  the  sheep  of  Jethro,  whom  they  call  Shu'aib. 
The  monks,  on  the  other  hand,  declare  that  it  issued  from  the  rock 
in  consequence  of  the  prayers  of  the  holy  abbot  Sangarius.  In 
12  min.  more  we  come  to  a  hut,  styled  the  Chapel  of  Mary,  said  to 


the  Monastery.       PENINSULA  OF  SINAI.        22.  Route.    203 

have  been  erected  by  the  monks  in  gratitude  for  their  deliverance 
by  the  Virgin  from  a  plague  of  vermin.  The  traveller,  however,  at 
a  late  period  of  the  year,  will  have  abundant  opportunity  of  observing 
that  this  miracle  needs  renewing.  Farther  up  the  route  crosses  a 
small  ravine,  and  then  passes  through  two  rude  gates.  After  a  few 
minutes  more  we  reach  a  pleasant  green  plain,  called  the  'Plain  of 
the  Cypress',  after  a  gigantic  cypress  which  rises  in  the  middle  of  it. 
It  is  enclosed  by  bold  and  barren  masses  of  rock,  and  reddish-brown 
and  grey  pinnacles  of  hard  granite.  To  the  N.  rises  the  peak  of 
Ras  es-Safsaf  (p.  204),  to  the  S.  is  the  Jebel  Musa (see  below),  farther 
distant  the  lofty  Jebel  Katherin  (p.  205).  We  turn  to  the  left  of 
the  cypress,  and  mount  the  rugged  blocks  over  which  lies  the  route 
to  the  summit  of  the  Jebel  Musa.  On  a  small  height  (G900  ft.)  to  the 
left  of  the  path  is  the  Chapel  of  Elijah,  a  plain  white  stone  building, 
containing  two  chapels  dedicated  to  the  prophets  Elijah  and  Elisha. 
The  rudely-whitewashed  interior  contains  a  hollow  which  the  monks 
point  out  as  the  cavern  in  which  Elijah  concealed  himself  (1  Kings 
xix.  9  et  seq.).  Here  probably  stood  the  Church  of  the  Virgin  which 
Justinian  built  at  the  same  time  as  the  fort  (p,  198).  The  road  of 
"Abbas  ends  close  by. 

Beyond  the  Chapel  of  Elijah  the  pilgrimage-steps  become  steeper. 
They  offer  no  danger  by  daylight  but  should  not  be  attempted  after 
dark.  There  are  still  about  1000  steps  from  this  point  to  the  sum- 
mit. The  granite  is  at  first  speckled  red,  afterwards  grey,  green, 
and  yellow.  After  an  ascent  of  40  min.  more  a  natural  hollow  in 
the  granite  is  pointed  o*it  by  the  Arabs  (left)  as  a  foot-print  of  the 
camel  which  the  prophet  rode  on  his  visit  to  Sinai,  before  his  call. 
In  3/4  hr.  more  we  reach  the  summit  of  the  Jebel  MusS.  (7363  ft.), 
which  rises  2350  ft.  above  the  monastery.  On  the  plateau  at  the 
top  lie  a  small  chapel  and  a  small  mosque.  The  Arabs  smear  the 
blood  of  their  sacrifices  (p.  185)  on  the  door  of  the  mosque.  Under 
the  mosque  is  a  grotto,  and  adjoining  the  chapel  the  apse  of  an  old 
church  is  distinguishable,  which  extended  as  far  as  the  mosque.  This 
is  supposed  to  be  the  church  mentioned  by  the  pilgrim  Silvia  in  the 
4th  cent.,  while  the  grotto  is  believed  to  be  the  hollow  where  Moses 
stood  when  the  glory  of  the  Lord  passed  by  (Ex.  xxxiii.  22).  According 
to  the  Muslim  tradition,  Moses  remained  here  fasting  for  forty  days 
while  writing  the  ten  commandments.  The  Greeks  claim  that  the 
exact  spot  is  a  small  rocky  recess  near  their  chapel.  Perhaps,  how- 
ever, the  whole  tradition  identifying  the  Jebel  Musa  with  the  Moun- 
tain of  the  Law  was  transferred  to  this  point  in  the  (ith  cent,  from 
Serbal  (p.  193),  when  the  monks  of  the  latter  migrated  to  the  Castle 
of  Justinian  and  the  orthodox  synods  condemned  the  monks  of 
Pharan  as  heretics  (p.  193).  In  any  case  the  Jebel  Musa  has  been 
held  as  the  genuine  Mt.  Sinai  from  that  time  on.  "t" 

The  *View  is  wild  and  imposing.  Towards  the  S.W.  rise  the 
sombre  and  majestic  Jebel  Zebtr  and  Jebel  Katherin,  the  twin  peaks 


204 


Route  22. 


PENINSULA  OF  SINAI.      3.  Environs  of 


of  one  mountain,  and  the  highest  summits  in  the  peninsula.  To  the 
S.E.  we  survey  the  Wadi  Seba'iyeh  (p.  20G).  Above  it  rises  a 
multitude  of  mountain-chains  and  peaks,  picturesquely  interspersed 
with  deep  valleys.  Towards  the  E.  the  Jebel  el-Me'allawi  is  parti- 
cularly conspicuous.  In  clear  weather  the  Red  Sea,  and  even  the 
greater  part  of  the  Bay  of  'Akaba,  are  visible.  The  island  of  Tiran 
to  the  S.E.  of  the  peninsula  is  also  sometimes  descried.  Towards 
the  N.W.  is  the  Has  es-Safsaf,  while  below  us  lie  the  valleys  of 
the  two  monasteries.  Beyond  these,  on  the  right,  framing  the 
picture,  rise  the  Jebel  rAribeh,  El-Ferir,  and  Es-Sannar;  on  the  left, 
the  Jebel  er-Rabba  and  Ez-Zafariych,  with  the  chateau  of  'Abbas 
Pasha.  Towards  the  N.,  beyond  the  Has  es-Safsaf,  we  obtain  a 
glimpse  through  the  defile  of  the  Nakb  el-Hawi  of  the  less  moun- 
tainous region  of  the  peninsula  in  that  direction. 

Those  who  remain  Jong  enough  on  the  Jebel  Musa  to  enjoy  (lie 
magnificent  spectacle  of  a  sunset  must  start  immediately  after  the  disap- 
pearance of  the  sun  and  walk  rapidly,  so  as  lo  have  lime  and  light  enough 
to  descend  to  the  Chapel  of  Elijah,  whence,  with  the  aid  of  a  guide, 
they  may  reach  the  monastery  in  an  hour  without  difficulty,  even  in  the 
dark,  by  following  the  road  of  rAbbas  Pasba. 

Travellers  usually  combine  the  return-route  from  the  Jebel  Musa 
with  a  visit  to  the  Ras  es-Safsaf,  which  also  claims  to  be  the  Mount 
of  the  Law.  We  descend  in  20min.  to  the  cypress  plain,  whence  the 
guides  conduct  us  in  3/4hr.  through  two  fertile  hollows  by  a  slightly 
descending  path  to  a  third  valley,  picturesquely  commanded  by 
rocks.  The  first  dale  contains  the  remains  of  a  cistern  and  a  chapel 
dedicated  to  John  the  Baptist.  Prom  the  vr.lley  in  which  this  path 
terminates  it  is  usual  to  make  the  ascent  of  the  Ras  es-Safsaf 
('mountain  of  the  willow';  C540  ft.).  We  may  here  enjoy  a  cool 
draught  from  a  spring  near  a  dilapidated  chapel  dedicated  to  the 
'Sacred  Girdle  of  the  Virgin  Mary',  and  inspect  the  venerable  willow 
which  gives  its  name  to  the  mountain,  and  from  which  Moses  is 
said  to  have  cut  his  miraculous  rod.  The  ascent  of  the  Safsaf  is  at 
first  facilitated  by  steps.  Farther  up  the  path  becomes  steeper,  and 
the  extreme  summit  can  be  attained  only  by  persons  with  steady 
heads  by  dint  of  scrambling.  Those  who  are  not  disposed  for  this 
undertaking  should  take  their  stand  by  the  opening  of  a  chasm  which 
descends  precipitously  into  the  Wadi  er-Raha,  situated  about  50 
paces  below  the  summit  of  the  mountain.  To  the  N.  rise  the  red 
porphyry  masses  of  the  Jebel  el-Ferif  (p.  207),  to  the  E.  is  the  Jebel 
cd-Deir  (p.  206),  to  the  W.  the  Ughret  el-Mehd. 

Those  who  wish  to  return  hence  to  the  monastery  may  descend 
by  the  ravine  called  the  Sikket  Shu'aib.    The  route  is  difficult. 

To  the  Wadi  bl-Leja  and  the  Mona stkits  o±'  Dfir  ei.-Arija'in 
(4  hrs.'  riding;  guide  not  indispensable).  The  route  descends  the 
Wddi  ed-Deir  to  the  hill  of  Hiiriln,  at  the  beginning  of  the  plain 
of  Er-Raha  (p.  195),  and  there  turns  to  the  left  into  the  Wadi  el- 
Leja.    Before  we  enter  the  valley  the  place  is  shown,  in  a  gorge 


the  Monastery.       PENINSULA  OF  SINAI.        22.  Route. 


205 


of  the Eas  es-Safsaf,  where  the  earth  is  supposed  to  have  swallowed 
up  the  company  of  Korah  (Numb.  *vi);  a  hole  in  the  rock  is  also 
pointed  out  as  the  mould  of  the  golden  calf. 

The  Wadi  el-Leja,  which  flanks  the  W.  side  of  the  Jebel  Mfisa, 
owes  its  name  to  an  Arabian  tradition  that  Leja  was  a  daughter  of 
Jethro,  and  a  sister  of  Zipporah  (Arabic  Zafurtya).  At  the  en- 
trance we  first  observe,  on  the  right,  the  dilapidated  hermitages 
dedicated  to  SS.  Cosmas  and  Damianus,  and  a  disused  chapel  of 
the  Twelve  Apostles.  On  the  left  is  the  ruinous  monastery  of 
El-Bustdn,  with  a  few  plantations;  farther  on  we  come  to  a  mass 
of  rock,  called  by  the  Arabs  Hajar  Musa,  or  'Stone  of  Moses', 
and  said  to  be  the  Rock  of  Horeb,  from  which  the  spring  issued 
when  struck  by  Moses  (Numb.  xx.  8  et  seq.  ;  comp.  p.  19'2).  It  is 
probably  in  accordance  with  an  ancient  Jewish  tradition,  with 
which  both  St.  Paul  (1  Cor.  x.  4),  and  the  expounders  of  the  Koran 
seem  to  have  been  familiar,  that  the  monks  assure  us  that  this 
rock  accompanied  the  Jews  throughout  their  wanderings  in  the 
desert,  and  then  returned  to  its  old  place.  It  is  of  reddish-brown 
granite  and  about  12  ft.  in  height.  The  S.  side  is  bisected  somewhat 
obliquely  by  a  band  of  porphyry  about  10  in.  wide,  from  holes  in 
which  jets  of  water  for  each  of  the  12  tribes  are  said  to  have  flowed. 
Two  of  the  holes,  however,  seem  to  have  disappeared.  —  Several 
Sinaitic  inscriptions  (p.  191)  are  to  he  seen  here. 

About  20  min.  to  the  S.  of  this  point  is  the  Deir  cl-Arbain, 
or  Monastery  of  the  Forty  (i.e.  martyrs  slain  by  the  Saracens),  witli 
an  extensive  garden.  In  the  upper  and  rocky  part  of  the  site  rises 
a  spring  with  a  grotto  near  it,  which  is  said  once  to  have  been  oc- 
cupied by  St.  Onofrius.  The  monastery  was  abandoned  by  the  middle 
of  the  17th  century.  Two  or  three  monks  reside  here  occasionally 
to  look  after  the  extensive  garden. 

The  Ascent  of  the  Jebel  KatiierJn  (comp.  the  Slap,  p.  190)  takes  a  full 
day  and  is  hardly  suitable  for  ladies.  The  start  should  be  made  very  early, 
or  the  previous  night  should  be  spent  at  the  Deir  el-Arba'in  (see  above). 
Koute  as  far  as  the  (2  hrs.)  Deir  el-Arba'in,  see  p.  204  and  above.  We 
then  follow  a  gorge  to  the  S.W.,  which  soon  contracts  considerably,  and 
observe  several  Sinaitic  inscriptions.  After  IV4-IV2  nr-  we  reach  the  Btr 
esh-Shutuiiir,  or  'partridges'  weir,  which  (Jod  is  said  to  have  called  forth 
for  behoof  of  the  partridges  which  followed  the  corpse  of  St.  Catharine 
when  borne  to  Mt.  Sinai  by  angels.  The  route  now  inclines  more  to  the 
W.,  and  is  very  steep  and  fatiguing  until  (f/2  hr.)  we  reach  the  ridge  of 
rocks  leading  to  the  top.  The  pilgrims  have  indicated  the  direction  of 
the  path  by  heaping  up  .'■mall  pyramids  of  stones  on  larger  masses  of  rock. 
After  another  hour  of  laborious  climbing  we  reach  the  summit.  The 
Jebel  Katherin  has  three  peaks,  the  Jebel  Kdthain,  the  Jebel  Zebir ,  and 
the  Jebel  Abu  linmeil,  the  first  of  which  (8536  ft.)  is  the  highest  mountain 
in  the  peninsula.  The  air  is  often  bitterly  cold  here  ,  and  snow  lies  in 
the  rocky  clefts  till  summer.  Half  of  the  narrow  plateau  on  the  summit 
is  occupied  by  a  small  and  rudely  constructed  chapel.  The  unevenness 
of  the  floor  is  declared  by  the  monks  to  be  due  to  a  miraculous  impression 
of  the  body  of  St.  Catharine,  which  was  found  here  300,  or  according  to 
others,  500  years  after  her  execution,  and  to  which  attention  was  attracted 
by  the  rays  of  light  emanating  from  it.     The  view  is  magnificent  in  fine 


Route  22. 


PENINSULA  OF  SINAI.        4.  From  Sinai 


weather,  but  towards  the  S.W.  it  is  intercepted  by  the  Jebel  Uinm  Shomar 
(see  below).  Towards  the  S.E.  lies  the  broad  Wadi  Nash.  Part  of  the 
0'ilf  of  'Akaba,  the  Arabian  mountains,  and  even  sometimes  the  Has 
Mohammed  (to  the  S.)  are  visible.  The  Gulf  of  Suez  is  surveyed  as  far 
as  the  African  coast,  on  which  rises  the  conspicuous  .lebcl  Gharib  (p.  196). 
On  the  W.  coast  of  the  peninsula  lies  the  sterile  plain  of  El-Ka'a  (p.  197), 
which  terminates  near  Tur.  To  the  N.  tower  Mt.  Serbal  aiid  the  Jebel 
el-Bint  (p.  193),  and  farther  distant  lie  the  light-coloured  sandy  plain  of  Er- 
Kamleh  and  the  long  range  of  the  Jebel  et-Tih. 

The  Wadi  Seba'iyeh  (afternoon  excursion  of  ca.  3  hrs.)  is  interesting 
from  its  being  regarded  by  several  authorities  as  the  camping-place  of  the 
Jews.  We  ascend  the  Wddi  Shu'aib  (p.  195),  cross  the  moderate  height  of 
the  Jebel  el-Mundja  (p.  195),  and  enter  the  rocky  Wddi  Seba'iyeh,  which  i3 
filled  with  heaps  of  rocks  and  small  stones.  We  may  now  return  by  a 
longer  and  easier  route  through  the  Wadi  es-Sadad  and  the  Wadi  esh-Sheikh 
(see  Map,  p.  192).  In  the  Wadi  esh-Sheikh  (see  below)  we  keep  to  the  left, 
until  the  entrance  of  the  Shu'aib  valley  and  the  monastery  come  in  sight. 

To  reach  the  Jebel  Umm  Shomar  (8443  ft.)  »ve  quit  Sit.  Sinai  by  the 
Wddi  Sebd'iyelt,  enter  the  broad  Wadi  Jiahabeh,  and  pass  the  night  at  the 
Wadi  Zeittln.  Next  morning  we  first  ascend  the  Jebel  Abu  Sliejer,  rising 
1180  ft.  above  the  valley.  The  Wddi  Zerakiyeh.  on  the  right,  contains  the 
scanty  ruins  of  the  old  monastery  of  Mdr  Antus.  The  majestic  granite 
masses  of  the  Jebel  Umm  Shomar,  with  its  huge  pinnacles,  somewhat 
resemble  Mt.  Serbal. 


4.  Keturn  Route  from  the  Monastery  of  Sinai  to  Suez  via  the  Wadi 
esh-Sheikh. 

5-7  Days.  —  1st  Day.  From  the  Monastery  of  Sinai  to  the  Wddi  el-  Tarr 
(p.,  207),  through  the  Wadi  esh-Sheikh, 73/4hrs.  —  2ndDay.  FromWadiet-Tarr. 
via  Wadi  Soleif,  Wadi  Berah,  and  Wadi  Lebweh,  to  the  lower  end  of  the 
Wddi  Barak  (p.  207),  83A  hrs.  —  3rd  Day.  From  the  lower  end  of  the 
Wadi  Barak  to  the  beginning  of  the  Wddi  el-Homr  (p.  208),  9'/4  hrs.  — 
4th  Day.  Through  the  Wadi  el-Homr  to  the' Wddi  Qharandel  (p.  187), 
91/4  hrs.  —  5th  Day.  From  the  Wadi  Oliarandel  to  the  Wddi  Werdan  (p.  187), 
73/i  hrs.  —  6th  Day.  From  the  Wadi  Werdan  to  '  Ay  fin  Mdsd  (p.  187),  8  hrs. 
—  7th  Day.     From  'Ayun  Miisa  to  Suez  (p.  186),  2l/2  hrs. 

Those  who  desire  to  visit  the  monuments  of  Sarb&t  el-Khddem  (p.  208) 
should  go  on  the  3rd  day  as  far  as  the  Wddi  Merattameh,  and  devote  the 
afternoon  to  the  antiquities.  They  would  then  proceed  on  the  4th  day  as 
far  as  the  Wddi  Shebeikeh,  which  is  5lfe  hrs.  from  the  Wadi  Werdan. 

On  starting  from  the  monastery,  we  descend  the  Wadi  ed-Deir 
(p.  195),  leave  the  plain  of  Er-Ilaha  (p.  195)  to  the  left,  and  turn  to 
the  N.E.  into  the  Wadi  esh-Sheikh,  which  is  joined  hy  the  Wddi 
es-Sadad  (p.  197)  on  the  S.,  1  hr.  farther  on.  On  the  right  rises  the 
Jebel  ed-Bdr,  or  'Mountain  of  the  Monastery',  and  on  the  left  the 
Jebel  Sona,  both  of  which  are  precipitous.  On  the  left,  farther 
on,  is  the  Jebel  Khizamhjeh.  The  broad  Wadi  esh-Sheikh,  which 
is  inhabited  at  places,  extends  in  a  large  semicircle  of  about  15 
hours'  journey  from  the  Jebel  Musa  towards  the  N.W.  down  to  the 
Wadi  Firan  (p.  191),  presenting  on  the  whole  but  little  attraction. 

After  l'/4  hr.  more  we  observe  the  Tomb  of  the  Sluiku  Salih 
(Nebi  Salih),  from  which  the  valley  derives  its  name.  The  exterior 
is  hung  with  votive  offerings,  such  as  tassels,  shawls,  ostriches'  eggs, 
camels'  halters ,  and  bridles.  The  Towara  Beduins  regard  Sheikh 
Salih  as  their  ancestor.   Every  May  a  great  festival  takes  place  here, 


to  Suez. 


PENINSULA  OF  SINAI.         22.  Route.    207 


accompanied  with  sacrifices,  feasting,  and  games,  at  which  women 
also  are  present,  and  a  smaller  festival  takes  place  after  the  date- 
harvest.  At  the  close  of  the  proceedings  the  children  of  the  desert 
ascend  the  Jebel  Miisa,  and  there  offer  sacrifices  to  Moses  (p.  203). 

To  the  W.  of  the  tomb  a  hill ,  hearing  a  few  ruins ,  rises  from 
the  valley.  We  next  pass  C/4  hr.)  the  entrance  to  the  Wadi  Suweinyeh 
on  the  right,  which  is  traversed  by  the  route  to  'Akaba  (p.  209). 
Opposite  us,  to  the  left,  are  several  small  towers,  above  which  rises 
the  pointed  Jebel  el-FerV  (6890  ft.),  a  mountain  of  porphyry.  After 
1/2  hr.  the  valley  expands  into  a  wide  basin,  bounded  by  precipitous 
rocky  slopes.  Beyond  this  basin  (40  min.),  and  beyond  the  mouth 
of  the  Wadi  Shi'b,  on  the  left,  the  route  traverses  (10  min.)  the  El- 
Watiyeh  Pass  (4022  ft.),  enclosed  by  imposing  masses  of  granite. 
Immediately  beyond  it  rises  a  stone,  resembling  an  altar,  with  a  white 
summit,  which  the  Beduins  point  out  as  the  scene  of  Abraham's  sacri- 
fice. A  rock  near  it,  in  the  form  of  a  chair,  is  called  the  Mak'ad  Nebi 
Musii,  or  seat  of  the  prophet  Moses,  which  he  is  said  to  have  occupied 
while  tending  the  sheep  of  his  father-in-law  Jethro  (comp.  p.  202). 

At  this  point  begins  the  lower  part  of  the  Wadi  esh-Sheikh. 
The  character  of  the  region  becomes  less  mountainous,  and  the 
route  enters  an  undulating  district.  In  less  than  an  hour  we  reach 
a  luxuriant  growth  of  tarfa  shrubs  (comp.  p.  192).  Beyond  these 
shrubs,  on  the  left,  opens  the  (3/4hr.)  Wadi  Kasab,  which  leads  to 
the  S.  to  the  Nakb  el-Hawi  (p.  195).  The  (iy4'hr.)  Wadi  Magheirdt, 
to  the  right,  lies  3566  ft.  above  the  sea-level.  The  imposing  mass 
of  Mt.  Serbal  now  becomes  visible.  Near  the  (1  hr.)  Wadi  et-Tarr 
(right)  are  a  few  inscriptions  (p.  191).  Here  the  first  night  is  spent. 
The  next  valley  on  the  right  is  the  (35  min.)  Wadi  Soleif;  and  35  min. 
farther  on  is  another  valley  of  the  same  name,  opposite  which  opens 
the  broad  Wadi  Sahab,  through  which  the  Nakb  el-Hawi  (p.  195) 
may  be  reached  in  5  hrs.  At  this  point  (2856  ft.)  our  route  quits 
the  Wadi  esh-Sheikh,  which  leads  to  the  (23/4  hrs.)  defile  of  El- 
Buweib  (p.  194),  farther  to  the  S.W.  We  ascend  rapidly  to  the  N.  W. 
in  the  W.  part  of  the  Wadi  Soleif,  which  soon  contracts  to  a  gorge. 
Several  valleys  are  now  crossed,  particularly  the  Wadi  el-Akhdar 
and  the  Wadi  el-'Ishsh,  as  well  as  the  low  ranges  of  hills  which 
separate  them ;  and  in  l3/4  hr.  we  reach  the  long  Wadi  Berah,  lying 
at  the  base  of  the  Jebel  Berah.  We  now  ascend  this  valley,  obtaining 
at  first  a  fine  retrospect  of  the  Sinai  group,  and  reach  (l3/4  hr.)  the 
top  of  the  pass,  at  the  base  of  the  pyramidal  hill  of  Zubb  el-Baheir 
Abu  Baharlyeh  (3895  ft.).  We  next  enter  the  broad  Wadi  Lebweh, 
through  which  the  route  descends  in  2  hrs.  to  the  foot  of  the  Nakb 
Wadi  Barak.  The  Wadi  Lebweh,  which  makes  a  bend  here  to  the 
S.W.  and  descends  to  the  Wadi  Firan,  now  takes  the  name  of  Wddi 
el-'Akir.  Our  route  ascends  in  l/%  hr.  over  loose  shingle  to  the  top  of 
the  Nakb  Wadi  Barak  Pass,  beyond  which  begins  the  Wadi  Barak, 
a  wild,  stone-besprinkled  valley,  sometimes  contracting  to  a  gorge, 


I  'IB 


tfow<e  22. 


PENINSULA  OF  SINAI.       4.  From  Sinai 


and  overgrown  with  remarkably  fine  old  seyal-trees.  Near  the  head 
of  the  valley  are  several  'Naw amis'  (stone  huts;  see  p.  194),  Sinaitic 
inscriptions,  and  fragments  of  a  rude  granite  wall. 

On  the  right  opens  the  Wadi  Mesakkar,  and  on  the  left,  lower 
down,  the  Wadi  Tayyibeh,  at  the  base  of  the  lofty  DablUs  'Ilak, 
In  <21/i  hrs.  more  the  Wadi  Barak  reaches  the  Wadi  Sik,  which 
(V4  hr.)  turns  sharply  to  the  left,  leading  to  the  Wadi  Sidr  (p.  189), 
while  the  Wadi  el-Merayih  (r.)  leads  to  the  Debbet  er-Ramleh.  Our 
route  ascends  in  a  N.W.  direction  and  in  i/2  nr-  reaches  a  narrow 
sandy  plain  called  the  Debeibet  Sheikh  Ahmed,  from  the  tomb  of  a 
Beduiu  chief  to  the  right  of  the  path.  We  then  descend  into  the 
Wadi  KhamUeh,  in  which  we  again  ascend  to  (2  hrs.)  the  Rds 
Swvik  (2475  ft.).  On  the  left  is  the  Jebel  Gharabi,  a  curiously 
eroded  mass  of  sandstone,  with  some  Sinaitic  inscriptions.  An 
extensive  view  is  obtained  over  the  Jebel  et-Tih  and  the  plain  of 
Kamleh.  —  We  descend  from  the  pass  by  a  steep  zigzag  path  into 
the  Wadi  SHwik,  in  which  after  l*/j  hr.  we  reach  the  mouth  of  the 
small  Wadi  Merattameh. 

From  this  point  (he  Sarbiit  el-Khadem  ('hill  of  the  castle';  from 
Khadem  or  Khatem,  the  ancient  Egyptian  word  for  a  fort  or  castle)  may  be 
visited  in  about  72  day.  The  actual  ascent,  which  is  somewhat  fatiguing 
and  requires  a  steady  head,  occupies  fully  an  hour.  On  the  level  plateau 
on  the  top  (690  ft.  above  the  valley)  are  traces  of  an  old  enclosing  wall, 
57  yds.  long  and  23  yds.  broad,  surrounded  by  sixteen  ancient  Egyptian 
upright  steles.  Similar  stones  bearing  inscriptions,  are  lying  on  the  ground, 
and  there  are  the  ruins  of  a  small  temple.  The  sanctuary  and  a  pronaos 
of  this  edifice  were  hewn  in  the  rocks  in  the  reign  of  Arnenemhet  III. 
(12th  Dyn.).  and  furnished  with  handsomely  painted  inscriptions  (which, 
however,  are  nearly  obliterated).  In  the  reign  of  Thutrmsis  III.  (18th  Dyn.) 
the  temple  was  extended  towards  the  W.  by  the  erection  of  a  pylon  and 
anterior  court,  and  several  rooms  on  the  W.  side  were  afterwards  added 
by  other  kings.  As  in  the  Wadi  Maghara  (p.  189),  the  goddess  Hathor,  and 
particularly  the  Hathor  of  Mafkat  (p.  189),  was  principally  worshipped  here. 
In  the  neighbourhood  copper  and  mafkat  were  formerly  worked,  and  the 
plateau  was  occupied  with  smelting  furnaces,  and  a  temple  where  the 
miners  and  the  overseers  assembled  to  celebrate  various  festivals.  The 
dwellings  of  the  workmen  and  their  overseers,  and  the  magazines,  lay  nearer 
the  mines,  some  of  which,  in  the  Wadi  Nasb  (see  below),  are  even  yet 
unexhausted.  Most  of  the  monuments  on  the  plateau  were  erected  by  the 
superior  mining  officials,  who  wished  to  hand  down  their  names  and  merits 
to  posterity,  mentioning  the  mineral  they  worked,  the  zeal  with  which  they 
performed  their  duties,  and  the  accidents  which  befell  them,  etc.  Victories 
over  the  native  mountain-tribes  are  sometimes  also  mentioned. 

From  Sarbut  el-Khadem  we  may,  by  taking  an  extra  day  and  sending 
the  camels  round  to  meet  us,  visit  the  ]Vddi  Nasb,  a  side-valley  of  the 
Wddi  Ba'ba',  and  regain  the  Suez  route  farther'  on  (p.  209).  The  old 
mines  in  the  Wadi  Nasb  were  worked  from  the  days  of  Snefru  (p.  189)  until 
the  20th  Dynasty.  At  the  entrance  to  the  valley  are  a  spring,  shaded  by 
palms,  some  ruins,  the  traces  of  old  gardens,  and  a  quantity  of  slag 
brought  from  the  mines,  l'/a  hr.  to  the  N.W.  On  the  hill  above  the  mines 
stands  an  ancient  Egyptian  obelisk  with  half-obliterated  hieroglyphics. 
Descending  the  Wadi  Nasb  towards  the  N.,  we  reach  the  mouth  of  the  Wadi 
Hobuz  (p.  209),  where  we  rejoin  the  caravan. 

Beyond  the  Wadi  Merattameh  the  route  continues  to  follow  the 
}Vadi  Suivik,  to  the  N.W.   After  1  hr.  the  valley  takes  the  name  of 


to  Suez. 


PENINSULA  OF  SINAI. 


22.  Route. 


209 


Wadi  Hobuz,  and  in  1  hr.  more  it  unites  with  the  Wddi  Nasb 
(p.  '208).  We  now  turn  to  the  right,  and  cross  the  sandy  tableland 
of  Debbet  el-Kerai,  where  a  fine  view  is  obtained  of  the  Sarbut 
el-Jemel  (2175  ft.),  dominating  the  valley  to  the  N.  Hence  a  bridle- 
path leads  to  the  Wadi  et-Tal  (p.  188).  In  3  hrs.  we  enter  the 
W&di  el-Homr.  To  the  left,  in  the  distance,  are  picturesquely 
shaped  mountains  with  flat  tops;  to  the  right  is  the  Jebel  et-Tih; 
and  behind  us  are  the  Sarbut  el-Khadem,  the  Jebel  Gharabi,  and 
the  distant  Mt.  Serb'al.  We  now  descend  to  the  broad  route  leading 
to  Nakhleh.  On  the  right  rises  the  long  Jebel  Beida'.  We  observe 
here  a  number  of  curious  geological  formations,  consisting  of  slabs 
and  fragments  of  sandstone  encrusted  with  nodules  of  iron  ore,  with 
a  large  admixture  of  silica,  grouped  like  bunches  of  grapes.  The 
Wadi  el-Homr  unites  with  the  Wadi  Shebeikeh,  Thence  to  Suez, 
see  pp.  188-186. 

5.  From  Sit  Sinai  to  'Akaba  and  El-Ma'an. 

9-12  Days.  This  expedition  will  be  undertaken  by  scientific  travellers 
only,  especially  since  Petra  U  more  easily  reached  from  Jerusalem.  The 
traveller  is  conducted  as  far  as  'Akaba  by  Towara  Beduins  (p.  185).  An 
introduction  to  the  Mudir  of  'Akaba  is  almost  indispensable.  This  should 
be  obtained  at  Cairo. 

The  1st  Day  from  the  monastery  of  St.  Catharine  is  generally  short  on 
account  of  the  late  start  (p.  186).  —  On  the  2nd  Day  the  watershed  between 
the  Gulf  of  Suez  and  that  of  'Akaba  is  crossed,  and  the  Wddi  Sa'l 
traversed.  Beyond  the  Wddi  Marr'a  the  route  is  not  easily  found,  until 
after  2  hrs.  we  reach  a  sandy  plain  extending  to  the  foot  of  the  Jebel 
et-Tih.  After  4  hrs.  we  pass  the  'Ain  el-Khadra,  a  spring  lying  to  the 
right,  perhaps  the  Biblical  Ilazeroth  (Numb.  xi.  35,  etc.).  After  having 
passed  through  a  narrow  defile,  we  proceed  to  the  N.E.,  enter  the  plain 
of  El-Ohdi;  traverse  the  spurs  of  the  Tih  chain,  and  reach  the  Wddi  Ghandl. 
The  night  is  passed  in  the  Wddi  ev-Ruweihibiyeh.  —  3bd  Day.  In  2'/«  hrs, 
we  reach  the  broad  Wddi  Samghi,  quit  it  (l3/«  hr.),  turn  towards  the  N.E., 
and  pass  huge  masses  of  rock.  The  narrowest  part  of  the  path  is  called 
El-Buweib,  'the  little  gate'.  The  path  gradually  approaches  the  Gujf  of 
"Akaba  (Bahr  'Akaba).  In  another  hour  we  come  to  the  good  spring  of 
El-Terrdbin.  The  night  is  spent  on  the  sea-shore.  —  4th  Day.  The  routo 
skirts  the  shell-strewn  shore.  Towards  noon  the  spring  of  Abu  Suweiva  is 
reached,  and  we  pitch  our  tents  near  the  Wddi  Iluweimirdt.  The  hills  on 
the  opposite  coast  are  low.  From  our  quarters  for  the  night  the  Arabian 
village  of  Ifakl  is  visible.  —  5th  Day.  The  route  leads  across  promontories 
stretching  far  out  into  the  sea,  particularly  near  the  Wddi  Merdkh.  The 
territory  of  the  Huweitat  Beduins  begins  here.  Negociations  for  a  new 
escort  must  be  made  with  these,  who  are  often  unreasonable.  About 
4  hrs.  from  the  Wadi  Iluweimirat  we  observe  the  small  granite  island  of 
Kureiyeh  or  Jezirel  Fav'Hn  (Pharaoh's  Island),  on  which  is  a  ruined  Saracen 
castle  (probably  Aila,  see  below).  The  broad  Wddi  Tdba',  farther  to  the  N., 
contains  a  bitter  spring  and  dum-palms.  Close  by  is  a  cistern  of  red  stone. 
The  lids  el-Masri,  a  promontory  of  dark  stone,  must  be  rounded,  the  moun- 
tains recede,  and  we  soon  reach  the  broad  pilgrim-route  {Derb  el-Hajj, 
p.  157).  We  now  cross  a  saline  swarnp,  leave  a  ruined  town  on  the  left, 
proceed  to  the  8.,  and  at  last  enter  the  fortress,  on  the  E.  bank  of  the  bay. 

'Akaba  (Kal'at  el-' Akaba;  Turkish  telegraph)  is  the  seat  of  a  Mudir 
(p.  lvii")  and  contains  a  Turkish  garrison.  The  Mudiriyeh  of 'Akaba  forms  part 
of  the  Kada  of  El-Ma'an  in  the  vilayet  of  Siiriya.  —  In  this  neighbourhood 
lay  the' Eloth  of  Scripture  (1  Kings  ix.  26),  which  was  garrisoned  during 
the  Roman  period  by  the  tenth  legion.    It  was  afterwards  called  Aila,  and. 


m 


210    Route  22.    PENINSULA  OF  SINAI.   5.  Fr.  Sinai  to  M&'an. 


was  still  inhabited  by  Jews  at  the  time  of  the  Crusades.  In  order  to 
protect  themselves  against  the  attacks  of  the  Saracens,  botli  Jews  and 
Christians  pretended  to  possess  a  letter  of  protection  from  Mohammed. 
During  the  Byzantine  period  it  paid  tribute  to  the  emperors,  but  was 
afterwards  under  the  protection  of  the  Mohammedan  princes  of  Egypt,  and 
was  especially  patronized  by  Ahmed  Ibn  Tuliin.  During  the  Crusades  it 
was  taken  by  the  Franks,  but  in  A.  D.  117*0  Saladin  recaptured  it.  Down 
to  the  loth  cent,  the  town  is  spoken  of  as  a  large  and  prosperous  place ; 
but  it  afterwards  fell  into  decay,  though  situated  on  the  great  pilgrimage- 
route  to  Mecca.  The  Turkish  fortress  of  'Akaba  is  rectangular  in  form, 
each  angle  of  its  massive  walls  being  defended  by  a  tower.  The  entrance- 
gate  (bearing  an  old  Arabic  inscription),  is  also  protected  by  towers. 

About  4-5  hrs.  from  'Akaba  is  the  Jebel  Barghir  or  Jebel  en-Aur 
('Mountain  of  Light'),  which  has  also  been  supposed  to  be  the  Mt.  Sinai 
of  Scripture.  The  Arabs  say  that  Moses  once  conversed  here  with  the 
Lord.     Upright  stones   and   Sinaitic   inscriptions   have  been    found    lure. 

From  'Akaba  to  El-Ma'an,  3  days  (escort  of  1-2  Kbayyals  necessary).  — 
1st  Day.  From  'Akaba  we  cross  the  plain  to  the  N.  After  Ufa  hr.  we 
begin  to  ascend  the'  Wddi  Yelem.  In  1/2  hr.  the  route  leads  to  the  E.  into 
the  mountains;  after  •/<  hr.  we  come  to  an  embankment  (El-Afasadd),  built 
of  rough-hewn  stone  blocks  8'/2  ft.  thick  and  stretching  right  across  the 
valley.  After  passing  several  lateral  valleys  we  reach  the  (IV2  hr.)  Wddi 
Ruweiha.  on  the  right,  where  the  Wadi  Yeteni  makes  a  bend  to  the  N. 
After  23/4  hrs.  we  arrive  at  the  small  plain  of  El-Mezra'a,  with  the  remains 
of  a  Roman  road  leading  due  N.  to  Petra.  Hence  to  the  (l'/i  hr.)  plain 
of  El  Medifein,  where  camp  is  pitched  for  the  night.  —  2nd  Day.  The 
route  now  leaves  the  Wadi  Yetem  and  leads  in  a  N.N  E.  direction  past 
the  (l3/<  hr.)  Jebel  Mahr&k  to  the  (50  min.)  spring  of  'Ain  Kuheireh;  close 
by  are  the  remains  of  a  Roman  fort.  Thence  to  the  N.E..  across  the  great 
plain  of  Hismeh,  and  past  the  hills  of  (IV2  br.)  Mehaimeh  and  (l'/«  hr.) 
Meshdrek.  '  After  2l/4  hrs.  begins  the  ascent  of  Nakb  Es/itdr,  leading  to  the 
high  plateau  of  the  Syro-Arabian  desert.  In  l1/-*  hr.  we  reach  the  highest 
point,  whence  a  fire  view  is  obtained  of  the  mountains  of 'Akaba,  the 
'Araba  (p.  175),  and  the  plateau  of  El-Tih  (p.  184).  1/2  hr.  Rd's  Eshlar; 
10  min.  Khirbet  Fu'eileh  (khan?);  1  hr.  'Ain  Abuyl  Lisdn  (nightquarters).  — 
3rd  Day.  We  iide  to  the  N.E.  for  1  hr.  to  the  ruins  of  Weideh,  and  1  hr. 
later  reach  the  Wddi  Mekaffd;  the  country  is  monotonous  and  uncultivated. 
3  hrs.  Wddi  Semneh,  whence  we  reach  El-Ma'an  (p.  153)  in  1  hr. 

From  El-Ma'an  to  Petra,  see  p.  174. 

From  El-Ma'an  to  Damascus  by  the  Hejaz  Railway,  see  pp.  153-151. 

From  El-Ma'an  to  Jerusalem.  We  take  the  Hejaz  Railwayas  far  as  'Amman 
(comp.  p.  153),  where  riding-animals  maybe  obtained.  Thence  to  Jerusalem, 
gee  RR.  17  and  15. 


III.  SAMARIA,  GALILEE,  PHOENICIA. 


Route  Page 

'23.  From  Jerusalem  to  Nabulus  (Shechem) 211 

From  El-Bireh  to  "Ain  el-Haramivch  via,  Beitin.     .     .     .  213 

Seilun .' 214 

From  Nabulus  to  Beisan  and  Tiberias 220 

'24.  From  Nabulus  to  Jenin  and  Haifa 220 

Tell  Dotban ' 222 

25.  Haifa  and  its  Environs 225 

Mount  Carmel 226 

From  Haifa  to  Acre  (/Akka) 228 

From  Acre  to  Safed 230 

26.  From  Haifa  to  Jaffa  via  'Athlit  and  Caesarea     ....  231 

27.  From  Haifa  to  Damascus  by  Railway 235 

28.  From  Haifa  to  Nazareth 237 

From  Acre  to  Nazareth 238 

29.  From  Jenin  to  Nazareth  via  Zer'in  and  Sulem  ....  239 

From  Suleui  to  Naiti  and  Endiir 240 

30.  Nazareth 241 

31.  From  Nazareth  to  Tiberias 244 

a.  Via  Mount  Tabor 244 

b.  Via  Kafr  Kenna 246 

From  Tiberias  to  Kal'at  el-Husn 261 

32.  From  Tiberias  to  Tell  Hum  and  Safed 251 

From  Khan  Jubb  Ytisuf  to  Baniyas  direct 253 

From  Safed  to  Meiron  and  Kafr  Birim 255 

From  Safed  to  Tyre,  direct  and  via  Tibnin 255 

33.  From  Safed  to  Damascus  via  Baniyas 257 

Tell'el-Kadi  (Dan) 259 

From  Baniyas  to  Birket  Ram  and  to  Hasbeiya  ....  261 

From  Safed  to  Damascus  via,  El-Kuneitra 263 

34.  From  Haifa,  to  Beirut  by  Land  via  Tyre  and  Sidou  .    .  264 

From  Acre  to  Tyre  via  Kalfat  Kara 269 

35.  Beirut  and  its  Environs 274 

Exclusions:  to  the  Dog  River,  p. 280;  to  Jebeil,  Bek- 

feiya,  Beit  Meri,  and  Brummana,  pp.282,  283;  to 
'Aleih,  p.  284. 


) 


23.  From  Jerusalem ''to  Nabulus  (Shechem). 

li-ll'/z  lirs.  (not  including  halts).  Road  under  construction.  —  Travel* 
lers  without  tents  had  better  spend  the  night  at  the  khan  in  El-Bireh 
(9l/s  M.  5  p.  212),  at  the  Latin  monastery,  or  at  the  Quakers1  mission- 
station  (p.  212)  of  RaiiHtlWi  (3'/4  hrs.);  those  with  tents  should  camp  at 
'Ain  Sini/d  (14  M.  i  p.  213)  or  at  'Ain  el-llar&mUjeh  (19  M.i  p.  213).  If  time 
la  of  consequence  a  carriage  may  be  taken  as  far  as  El-Lubbnn  (p.  214; 
(horses  must  be  sent  on  in  advance),  so  that  Ndbulut  may  be  reached  in 
I  day.   —  Gomp.  the  Maps  at  pp.  92,  10. 

Beyond    the    upper   Kidron  valley  (p.  76)  the  Nabulus   road 
diverges  from  that  to  the  Mt.  of  Olives  and  traverses  the  lofty  plain 
Babdekek's  Palestine  and  Syria.    4th  Edit.  13 


?#5*f  j        ^^m 


212    Route  23. 


EL-BIREH. 


From  Jerusalem 


in  a  due  northerly  direction.  After  20  niin.  we  see  to  the  left  Shu' fat 
( perhaps  the  Nob  of  1  Sam,  xxi, 23),  with  fragments  of  a  church  and 
a  small  reservoir  hewn  in  the  rock.  To  the  right,  after  10  min.,  rises 
the  hill  of  Tell  el-FCd,  probably  the  same  as  the  Gibcuh  of  Benjamin 
(Judg.  xix.  12 )  and  perhaps  also  tohe  identified  with  'Gibeah  of  Saul' 
(1  Sam.  xv.  34)  and  'Gibeah  of  God'  (1  Sam.  x.  5;  conip.  p.  98). 
There  are  the  ruins  of  a  large  building,  perhaps  a  fort  erected  by 
the  Crusaders,  and  some  smaller  remains;  the  view  is  extensive. 
To  the  W.  (left)  are  seen  the  villages  of  Beit  Iksa  (p.  18),  Beit 
Hanina  (p.  95),  and  Bir  Nebala  (p.  97).  Farther  on  ( i/o  hr.)  a  road 
diverges  on  the  left,  leading  to  El-Jib  (p.  97). 

In  about  13/4  hr.  from  the  Damascus  Gate  we  reach  (left)  the 
dilapidated  Khan  cl-Khardib.  To  the  right  rises  a  hill,  on  which 
lies  the  small  village  of  Er-Rdm,  the  ancient  Ramah  of  Benjamin 
(1  Kings  xv.  17). 

Ramah  of  Benjamin  formed  a  kind  of  frontier  castle  between  the  N. 
and  8.  kingdoms.  After  the  captivity  it  was  repeopled.  It  is  now  occupied 
by  about  15  families  only.  —  To  the  W.  of  the  village  lies  the  Makdm 
Sheikh  IJusein,  containing  the  ruins  of  a  small  basilica.  The  view  from  it 
is  very  extensive.  From  Er-Ram  the  traveller  may  follow  the  crest  of  the 
hill  towards  the  E.,   and  in  95  min.  reach  the  village  of  Jeba'  (p.  98). 

Continuing  onr  journey,  we  perceive  to  the  left  ( W. )  Kalandtyeh, 
and  then  (40  min.)  Khirbel  el-'Atara,  a  ruined  village  on  a  hill, 
■with  two  old  ponds  and  tombs  (Ataroth-Addar,  Joshua  xvi.  5). 

We  now  cross  the  watershed  between  the  Mediterranean  and  the 
Jordan  valley,  skirt  the  Wadi  es-SuweinU  (p.  98),  which  descends 
to  the  latter,  and  in  I/*  hr.  (Q1/*  M.  from  Jerusalem)  reach  — 

El-Bireh  a  village  of  about  1000  inhab.,  situated  in  a  poor 
district.  It  owes  its  name  ('cistern')  to  its  abundant  supply  of  water, 
and  is  perhaps  the  ancient  Beeroth,  which  has  the  same  meaning. 
This  was  a  town  of  Benjamin  (Joshua  ix.  17;  2  Sam.  iv.  2,  3).  Near 
the  principal  spring,  below  the  village,  to  the  S.W.,  are  the  remains 
of  some  ancient  reservoirs.  On  the  highest  ground  in  the  village 
lie  the  ruins  of  a  Christian  Church,  beside  which  is  a  Mohammedan 
Weli.  The  church  was  erected  by  the  Templars  in  1140,  and  closely 
resembles  the  church  of  St.  Anne  at  Jerusalem  (p.  48);  the  three 
apses  and  the  N.  wall  only  are  now  standing.  The  tradition  that  this 
was  the  spot  where  Mary  and  Joseph  first  discovered  the  absence  of 
the  child  Jesus  from  their  company  is  mentioned  for  the  first  time 
in  the  records  of  pilgrimages  in  the  14th  cent.  ( Luke  ii.  43  et  seq.). 
The  tower  to  the  N.  of  the  village  is  in  part  constructed  of  ancient 
materials. 

About  3/4  M.  to  the.  W.  of  El-Bireh  lies  Ramallah,  a  large  Christian 
village,  with  English  and  Quaker  mission-Stations  and  schools,  an  English 
physician,  and  churches,  convents,  and  schools  of  the  Greek  and  Latin 
patriarchates  (Sisters  of.  St.  Joseph). 

The  Carriage  Road  feom  El-Bireh  to  'A in  el-IIaramiyeh 
(10  M.)  leads  past  (20  min.  )  the  small  pond  of  FJ-Bdiu'a,  which 
is  often  dry.    After  36  min.  we  see  in  front  of  us  the  Wadi  Jifnii. 


to  Ndbulus. 


BEITIN. 


23.  Route.    213 


Here,  in  a  pleasant  oasis,  lies  the  v'llage  df  Jifnd,  inhabited  by  about 
600  Christians.  This  is  the  ancient  Qophnah,  which  was  a  place  of  con- 
siih  -able  importance  and  became  the  capital  of  one  of  the  ten  toparchies 
into  which  Judcea  was  divided  hy  the  Romans.  On  the  slope  of  the  hill 
are  the  Latin  monastery  and  church,  to  the  E.  of  which  the  ruins  of  an 
old  church  are  visible.  Built  into  the  ruins  to  the  S.  of  the  village  is  a 
Greek  church,  containing  some  antiquities  found  in  the  neighbourhood, 
including  a  sarcophagus  built  into  the  wall.  On  the  hill  to  the  S.  are 
the  ruins  of  an  old  castle.  —  A  road  to  the  N.W.  leads  from  Jifna  to 
Tibmh,  perhaps  the  ancient  Timnath  Serah,  where  Joshua's  grave  has  been 
shown  since  the  5th  century  among  Other  rock-graves  (Joshua  xix.  50; 
xxiv.  30).     Josephus  calls  it  the  capital  of  a  toparchy  (Bell.  Jud.  iii.  3,5). 

The  road  descends  in  long  windings  along  the  E.  slope  of  the 
valley  to  (35  inin.)  'Ain  Sinyil,  a  village  about  14 M.  from  Jerusalem 
and  probably  the  Jeshanah  of  2  Chron.  xiii.  19.  We  then  follow 
the  valley  to  the  N.,  with  Yebrud  and  the  ruin  of  Kasr  BerdawU 
(Castle  of  Baldwin)  lying  above  us  to  the  right,  while  to  the  left 
is  'Atdra.  At  (40  niin.)  the  last-mentioned  point  the  road  bends 
sharply  to  the  S.E.  and  descends  into  a  side-valley  of  the  Wddi 
el-IIardrruyeh,  resuming  its  N.  direction  on  reaching  the  main  valley. 
In  3,4  hr.  ( 19  M.  from  Jerusalem)  we  reach  the  spring  of  — 

'Ain  el-Haramiyeh.  The  water  trickles  down  from  the  base  of 
a  cliff.    Adjacent  are  rock-tombs,  caverns,  and  the  ruins  of  a  khan. 

The  shorter  but  very  rough  Bkidlb  Path  pbom  El-Bihkii  to  'Ain  ej,- 
Hakamiyeii  diverges  to  the  right  (N.E.)  from  the  road  aliout  5  min.  to  the 
N.  of  El-Bireh.  After  20  min.  we  pass  a  spring  and  two  caverns  (ancient 
reservoirs,  called  'At/un  el-Har&miyeh  in  the  middle  ages)  on  our  left.  The 
ceiling  of  one  of  these  is  supported  by  two  columns.  Soon  afterwards  we 
pass  another  spring,  and  in  10  min.  more  the  spring  'Ain  el-Akabeh  on  our 
right.     In  10  min.  we  reach  the  miserable  hovels  of  — 

Beitin  (ca.  360  inhab.),  whicli  stancs  on  a  hill  and  is  probably  identical 
with  Hethel.  The  view,  especially  from  the  roof  of  the  sheikh's  house,  is 
extensive.  To  the  N.W.,  on  the  highest  point  in  the  village,  lie  the  ruins 
of  a  tower,  on  old  foundations;  a  little  lower  are  the  remains  of  a  Crusaders' 
church;  in  the  valley  to  the  \V.  is  a  fine  reservoir  (103  yds.  long  and 
72  yd^.  wide),  in  the  centre  of  which  the  spring  is  enclosed  in  a  circular 
basin.  A  little  to  the  N.  of  the  village  is  a  remarkable  circle  of  stones 
whicli  may  possibly  have  bad  a  religious  significance  (comp.  p.  xoiii). 

Beth-el  signifies  'house  of  God'  (Gen.  xxviii.  19)  ;  according  to  Judges  i.  28, 
26  the  place  was  originally  called  Lvz.  The  town  was  captured  and  occupied 
by  the  tribe  of  Ephraim  (Judges  i.  22  et  seq.) ;  in  the  list  in  Joshua  xviii. 
13,22  it  is  allotted  to  the  tribe  of  Benjamin  as  their  frontier-town  towards 
Ephraim.  Under  Jeroboam  it  became  the  centre  of  the  worship  of  Jehovah 
in  the  northern  kingdom  (as  Jerusalem  was  for  the  southern  kingdom); 
comp.  Amos  iv.  4,  vii.  13;  1  Kings  xii.  32.  After  the  captivity  Bethel  was 
again  occupied  by  Benjamites,  and  in  the  time  of  the  Maccabees  it  was 
fortified  by  the  Syrian  Bacchides.    It  was  afterwards  taken  by  Vespasian. 

From  Beitin  the  road  traverres  the  crest  of  the  hills  towards  the  X.; 
on  a  hill  in  front  of  us  lies  the  Christian  village  of  El-Tayyibeh.  In 
40  min.  we  see  Sir  ez-Zeit  on  a  hill  in  the  distance  to  the  left,  with  Jifnd 
(p.  212)  below  it  and  'Ain  Yebrtld  on  the  top  of  a  hill  near  us.  Vines, 
figs,  and  olives  remind  us  that  we  are  now  in  the  favoured  territory  of 
Ephraim.  Farther  on  we  perceive  'Ain  Siny.i.  (see  above)  and  Khirbet 
el-'Atara  (\k  212)  above  it,  and  (after  35  min.)  Yebrud  (see  above),  all  on 
the  left.  The  road  down  the  valley  through  the  rock-gardens  is  very  bad. 
Passing  a  height  crowned  with  a  ruin  called  Kasr  Berdawil  (see  above), 
the  road  leads  to  a  cross  valley  in  32  min.,  where  we  choose  the  road  to 
the  N.,  hading  past  extensive  ruins  with  magnificent  olive-trees  into  the 
Wddi  el-Har&miyeh  and  to  the  ('/<  hr.)  spring  of  that  name  (see  above). 

13* 


„JBMHHBMH1 


214  Eouie  23. 


SEILUN. 


From  Jerusalem 


From  'Ain  el-Haraniiyeh  we  ascend  the  valley  to  the  N.  To 
the  left,  after  V4nr->  appears  the  ruin  of  Et- Tell.  On  the  right, 
after  ^2  hr.,  opens  a  broad,  well-cultivated  plain  with  the  village  of 
Turmus  'Aiyd  (the  Thormasia  of  the  Talmud),  where  the  road  to 
Seilun  diverges  on  the  right,  while  the  direct  route  to  Khan  el- 
Lubban  proceeds  towards  the  left. 

The  slight  digression  to  Seilun  is  worth  making,  if  only  for  the  view. 
The  road  crosses  the  plain  towards  the  N.E.,  and  after  lj\  hr.  leaves  the 
village  of  Turnms  'Aiya  to  the  right.  We  next  cross  the  low  watershed, 
and  reach  (1/2  hr.)  the  ruins  of  — 

Seilun,  on  the  site  of  the  Shiloh  of  Scripture.  It  was  here  that  the  Temple 
of  Jehovah  stood  (.Ter.  vii.  12)  with  the  Ark  of  the  Covenant;  and  in 
honour  of  the  Lord  a  festival  was  annually  celebrated,  on  which  occasion 
dances  were  performed  by  the  daughters  of  Shiloh  (Judges  xxi.  19,  21).  This 
was  the  residence  of  Eli  and  of  the  youthful  Samuel  (1  Sam.  ii,  iii).  At 
what  time  the  catastrophe  mentioned  by  the  prophet  (Jerem.  vii.  12,  14; 
xxvi.  6)  overtook  the  town,  is  unknown.  In  the  time  of  St.  Jerome  the 
place  was  in  ruins  (comp.  also  p.  96).  The  first  ruin,  which  lies  on  our 
right  a  little  distance  from  the  road,  is  called  Jdmi'  el- Arba'in  (the 
40  companions  of  the  prophet).  The  lintel  of  the  portal  (N.)  is  formed  of 
a  monolith  with  beautiful  antique  sculptures.  The  main  building  was 
about  33  ft.  in  length  and  breadth,  and  the  roof  was  supported  by  four 
columns  with  Corinthian  capitals.  During  a  restoration  vaults  were  built 
and  the  side-walls  buttressed.  A  small  mosque  has  been  added  on  the  E. 
side.  —  The  road  to  the  village  (5  min.  to  the  N.)  leads  past  a  pond  parti- 
ally hewn  in  the  rock.  The  more  modern  ruins  of  the  village  on  the  hill  show 
traces  of  ancient  building  materials.  In  the  hillside  are.  rock-tombs.  At 
the  S.  foot  of  the  hill  is  the  mosque  Jdmi'  el-Yeteim,  close  to  which  is  an 
old  oak.  The  interior  of  the  mosque  is  vaulted  and  supported  by  two 
columns.  Behind  the  village,  on  the  N.  side  of  the  hill,  is  a  remarkably 
large  terrace;  it  is  possible  that  the  Tabernacle  stood  here. 

From  Seilun  we  descend  into  the  Wddi  SeilAn  in  a  N.W.  direction,  and 
descend  its  course  to  the  W.  After  50  min.  the  Khdn  el-Lubban  (see  below) 
comes  in  sight  to  the  left.  In  5  min.  we  turn  to  the  N.,  and  join  the 
direct  road  from  Beitin. 

On  the  direct  route  to  Khan  el-Lubban  we  see,  on  the  hill  to 
the  left,  the  village  of  Sinjil,  called  Casale  Saint  Giles  by  the 
Crusaders,  from  Count  Raymond  of  Saint  Giles.  This  point  marks 
the  present  limit  of  the  carriage-road.  We  now  skirt  the  E.  slope 
of  the  valley  (passing  on  the  right  the  Weli  Abu  'Auf,  and  on  the 
left,  on  the  other  side  of  the  valley,  the  ruin  of  KMrbet  El-Bur j) 
and  reach  the  top  of  the  pass  in  35  min.,  where  we  obtain  a  glimpse 
of  Mount  Hernion  and  the  green  basin  of  El-Lubban  before  us.  The 
footpath  (right)  descends  rapidly;  the  better  road  (left)  leads  in 
20  min.  to  the  large  dilapidated  Khan  el-Lubban,  with  a  good  spring. 

About  5  min.  farther  on  we  see  to  the  left  the  village  of  El- 
Lubban,  the  ancient  Lebonah  (Judges  xxi.  19).  In  the  N.E.  comer 
of  the  plain,  which  we  traverse  lengthwise,  we  turn  to  the  right 
into  a  broad  level  valley  which  ascends  gradually  and  terminates 
in  a  barren  ridge.  In  '25  min.  we  leave  Es-Sdwiyeh  to  the  left,  and 
in  20  min.  more  reach  the  dilapidated  Khun  es-Sdwiyeh.  Hence  the 
the  road  descends  to  the  N.W.  into  the  Wddi  Yetma  C/4  hr.) ;  to 
the  right  of  the  road  lie  Kabeldn  and  Yetma,  to  the  left  Ydsuf. 
On  the  N.  side  of  the  valley  the  road  again  ascends  steeply.    At 


t'i  Ndbulus. 


JACOB'S  WELL. 


23.  Route.    215 


the  top  of  the.  hill  (^  nr0  we  obtain  a  view  of  the  large  plain  of 
Kl-Makhna,  framed  by  the  mountains  of  Samaria.  Before  us  rise 
Ebal  and  Gerizim,  and  far  to  the  N.  the  Great  Ilermon  (p.  289). 
We  descend  to  [20  min. )  the  S.  extremity  of  the  plain  of  El-Makhna. 
To  the  left  is  the  village  of  Kuza,  to  the  right  Beita.  Skirting  the  W. 
margin  of  the  plain,  we  pass  (20  min.")  the  large  village  of  Huwdra 
on  the  left,  situated  at  the  foot  of  the  chain  of  Gerizim  (pp.  218, 219). 
The  village  of  'Audalldh  next  lies  on  the  hill  to  the  right.  This  is  the 
broadest  part  of  the  plain  of  Makhna.  On  the  right,  after  V^nr.,  lies 
'Awerta,  where  the  tombs  of  Eleazar  and  Phinehas  (Joshua  xxiv.  33) 
are  shown.  On  Mt.  Gerizim  stands  the  Weli  Abu  Isma'ln  (Ishmael). 
After  */2  hr.  the  village  of  Kafr  Kallln  lies  to  the  left,  and  that  of 
Rujib  to  the  right  beyond  the  plain.  Above  us,  on  the  summit  of 
Mt.  Gerizim,  is  a  Muslim  weli. 

The  road  skirts  the  N.E.  corner  of  Mt.  Gerizim.  After  35  min., 
to  the  right  of  the  road,  is  situated  Jacob's  Well,  which  belongs 
to  the  Greeks  and  has  been  enclosed  with  a  wall.  According  to  an 
ancient  tradition  this  is  the  well  where  Jesus  met  the  Woman  of 
Samaria,  who  came  from  Sychar. 

The  cistern  is  situated  on  the  highroad  from  Jerusalem  to  Galilee, 
thus  according  with  the  narrative  of  St.  John  (iv.  5-30;  comp.  p.  220). 
The  opening  of  the  cistern  now  lies  in  the  crypt  of  a  Crusaders'  chapel, 
which  was  erected  on  the  ruins  of  a  church  of  the  4th  century.  The  cistern, 
which  is  lined  with  masonry,  is  Vfc  ft.  in  diameter,  and  it  is  still  75  ft. 
deep  in  spite  of  the  rubbish  thrown  into  it.     It  is  dry  in  summer. 

About  '/2  M.  to  the  N.  of  Jacob's  Well  is  shown  Joseph's  Tomb. 
This  monument  was  restored  in  1868,  and  has  the  usual  form  of 
a  Muslim  weli. 

Jews,  Christians,  and  Muslims  agree  that  here  lay  the  'parcel  of  ground' 
(Josh.  xxiv.  32)  purchased  by  Jacob,  where  the  Israelites  afterwards  buried 
Joseph.  This  tradition  dates  from  the  4th  century.  The  Jews  burn  small 
votive  offerings  in  the  hollows  of  the  two  little  columns  of  the  tomb. 

From  Jacob's  Well  we  turn  to  the  W.  into  the  fertile  and  well- 
cultivated  valley  of  Nabulus,  which  is  flanked  by  Mt.  6erizim(jp.  219) 
on  the  S.  and  Mt.  Ebal  (p. 220)  on  the  N.  On  the  right,  after  7  min., 
is  the  village  of  Batata.  Here,  according  to  early  Christian  tradition 
and  the  Samaritan  chronicle,  stood  the  oak  (ballut)  of  Shechem 
(Joshua  xxiv.  26;  Judges  ix.  6).  About  4  min.  farther  on  rock- 
tombs  are  visible  on  Mt.  Ebal.  We  now  reach  the  spring  'Ain  Defna, 
near  which  Turkish  barracks  with  an  arsenal  and  hospital  have  been 
erected.  Olive-groves  soon  begin.  To  the  left  lies  the  chapel  of  the 
liijal  el-'ArnM  (men  of  the  columns),  where  forty  Jewish  prophets 
are  said  to  be  buried  and  the  pillar  of  Abimelech  (Judges  ix.  6) 
perhaps  stood.    In  12  min.  more  we  reach  the  gate  of  Nabulus. 


Nabulus  (Shechem). 

Accommodation  in  the  Hotel  Nablus  of  the  Hamburg- American  Line,  or 
in  the  Latin  Mission  House  (letter  of  introduction  from  Jerusalem  advisable). 
—  The  Camping  Ground  is  on  the  W.  side  of  the  town.  It  is  reached 
by  turning  to  the  right  before  we  come  to  the  gate  and  riding  round  the 


tSWt 


216   Route  23. 


NABULUS. 


History. 


N.  side  of  the  town.  The  commandant  should  be  requested  to  furnish  one 
or  two  soldiers  as  a  guard  for  the  tents  (about  1/2  mej.  per  man),  as  the 
inhabitants  are  fanatical,  turbulent,  and  quarrelsome. 

The  English  Ckvrc/i  Missionary  Society  (p.  21)  has  a  station  here  (church 
and  hospital  with  English  physician). 

Post  and  Telegraph  Office  (Turkish). 

History.  The  name  Siohem  or  Shechem  means  'neck'  or  'ridge'  (as 
the  top  of  a  pass).  The  town  is  mentioned  as  far  back  as  the  (lays  of  the 
patriarchs;  and  Abraham,  Jacob,  and  his  sons  all  encamped  temporarily 
in  the  plain  near  Shechem  (Gen.  xii.  6;  xxxiii.  18;  xxxv.  12).  Joshua 
also  held  here  his  last  assembly  of  the  people  (Josh.  xxiv.  1,25).  At  a  later 
date  the  town  belonged  to  the  tribe  of  Ephraim.  Abimelech,  who  was  the 
son  of  Gideon  and  a  woman  of  Shechem,  ruled  it  for  three  years  (Judges  ix). 
Under  Rehoboam,  the  national  assembly  was  held  here  (B.C.  933),  which 
resulted  in  the  final  separation  of  the  Northern  tribes  from  the  Kingdom 
of  David  (1  Kings  xii).  Jeroboam  chose  Shechem  for  his  residence.  About 
50  years  later,  Omri  transferred  the  royal  residence  to  the  newly- founded 
Samaria  (p.  221),  the  nam"  of  which  gradual];  came  ;nto  use  i'nr  the  whole 
country.  After  a  part  of  the  population  had  be-^n  carried  oil'  by  the  As- 
s\  i-ians  (B.C.  722),  their  place  was  taken  by  pagan  colonists  (2  Kings  xvii.  24)  ; 
and  from  thiir  union  with  those  of  the  Israelites  who  had  been  left  behind 
sprang  the  mixed  people  of  the  Samaritans,  toward  whom  the  Jews  after 
their  return  from  exile  behaved  with  the  most  jealous  reserve,  excluding 
them  from  all  share  in  the  religious  rites  of  Jerusalem.  The  Samaritans, 
therefore,  under  the  leadership  of  Sanballat  (Nehem.  ii.  10,  19),  founded 
a  temple  of  their  own  on  Jit.  (ieriziin,  in  consequence  of  which  the  town 
of  Shechem  again  rose  in  importance,  while  Samaria  declined.  This 
temple  was  destroyed  in  B.C.  129  by  John  Hyrcanus,  the  Asmonean  (p.lxxix), 
but  its  site  continued  be  held  sacred  by  the  Samaritans.  The  enmity 
between  the  Jews  and  the  Samaritans  is  also  sharply  emphasized  in  the 
New  Testament.  The  Jews  regarded  the  name  of  Samaritan  as  a  term  of 
reproach  (John  viii  48).  The  apostles  did  not  at  first  go  to  Samaria  to 
preach  the  gospel  (Matth.  x.  5),  though  in  the  Book  of  the  Acts,  viii.  5-25, 
we  read  of  preaching  and  baptism  taking  p'ace  there.  In  67  A.D.Vespasian 
conquered  the  country,  slaying  11,000  of  the  inhabitants.  Shechem  was 
rebuilt  after  the  war,  and  received  the  name  of  Flavia  NeapoUa,  in  honour 
of  the  emperor.  During  the  Chrislian  period  Ts'eapolis  became  the  seat  of 
a  bishop,  but  collisions  between  the  Samaritans  and  the  Christians  were 
frequent.  The  last  serious  revolt  was  put  down  by  the  troops  of  Justinian 
in  529  A.D.  The  synagogues  were  closed.  Many  of  the  Samaritans  took 
refuge  in  Persia,  some  accepted  Christianity,  but  others  remained  true  to 
their  hereditary  faith.  In  the  12th  cent.  Benjamin  of  Tudela  still  found 
about  1CO0  adherents  of  the  sect  of  the  Samaritans  in  Palestine,  of  whom 
100  were  at  Nabulus,  300  at  Ascalon,  200  at  Ctesarea,  and  4<  0  at  Damascus. 
The  Crusaders  under  Tancred  captured  the  town,  and  Baldwin  II.  held  a 
great  Diet  here.  —  The  name  of  Nabulus,  a  corruption  of  Neupolis,  offers 
one  of  the  rave  instances  in  which  a  place  has  changed  its  ancient 
Semitic  name  for  a  later  one  of  Roman  origin  (p.  lvii).  For  a  time  the 
town  was  also  known  as  Mcdiorlha,  which  signifies  pass  or  'place  of  passage'. 

The  sect  of  the  Samaritans  is  still  represented  by  about  160  people 
at  Nabulus  (comp.  p.  218).  The  prayers  arc  repeated  in  the  Samaritan 
dialect,  although  Arabic  is  now  the  colloquial  language  of  the  people.  The 
men  wear  white  surplices  and  red  turbans,  and  have  preserved  a  venerable 
type  of  Jewish  physiognomy.  The  Samaritans  are  strict  monotheists, 
and  abhor  all  images  and  all  expressions  whereby  human  attributes  are 
ascribed  to  (iod.  They  believe  in  good  anil  evil  spirits,  in  the  resur- 
rection and  last  judgment.  They  expect  the  Messiah  to  appear  6000years 
after  the  creation  of  the  world,  but  they  do  not  consider  that  he  will  be 
greater  than  Moses.  Of  the  Old  Testament  they  possess  the  Pentateuch 
only,  in  a  version  differing  somewhat  from  ours.  Their  literature  chiefly 
consists  of  prayers  and  hymns.  Their  oldest  chronicles  date  from  the  12th 
century.  Three  times  a  year,  viz.  at  the  festival  of  unleavened  bread,  the 
feast  of  weeks,   and   the  feast  of  tabernacles,  they  make  a  pilgrimage  to 


Population. 


NABUL1  S. 


23.  Route.   217 


the  sacred  Mt.  Qerizim.  They  celebrate  all  the  Mosaic  festivals.  At  the 
Passover,  to  which  strangers  will  find  great  difficulty  in  obtaining  ad- 
mittance, seven  white  lambs  are  sacrificed  in  strict  accordance  with  the 
Old  Testament  ritual.  The  office  of  high-priest  is  hereditary  in  the  family 
of  the  tribe  of  Levi;  the  present  occupant  of  the  post  is  called  Ya'ktib. 
He  is  the  president  of  the  community  and  at  the  same  time  one  of  the 
district  authorities.  His  stipend  consists  of  tithes  paid  him  by  the  flock. 
Bigamy  is  permitted  if  the  first  wife  be  childless,  and  when  a  married  man 
dies,  his  nearest  relative  other  than  his  brother  is  bound  to  marry  the  widow. 


',  ?;-VjiW>v„/. 


NABU  WIS  (SHECHEM). 

5    from  do  Saulcy.'Ronn/*  Xiep.el. 


Ndbulus  (1870  ft.  above-  the  sea-levell,  the  capital  of  one  of  the 
live  liwas  of  the  Beirut  Vilayet  (p.  Ivii),  contains  24,800  inhab. 
and  is  garrisoned  by  a  regiment  of  infantry.  There  are  8  large 
mosqnes,  and  2  Muslim  schools  (a  girls'  school  and  a  college),  in 
addition  to  the  Koran  schools.    The  Christian  inhabitants,  about 


IPHHHWHHP 


218   Route  23. 


NABULUS. 


700  in  number,  are  mostly  Orthodox  (with  a  bishop  and  church)  or 
United  Greeks  (with  a  church).  The  few  Latins  have  a  church  and 
a  mission-house  of  the  Patriarchate.  There  are  also  about  150  Prote- 
stants, with  a  church,  school,  and  hospital  of  the  Churoh  Missionary 
Society  (see  p.  216),  200  .Tews,  and  100  Samaritans.  —  Nabulus 
carries  on  a  considerable  trade  with  the  country  to  the  E.  of  Jordan, 
particularly  in  wool  and  cotton.  It  contains  about  15  manufactories 
of  soap,  which  is  made  chiefly  from  olive-oil.  Excellent  wheat  is 
grown  in  the  surrounding  country. 

The  present  town,  which  lies  in  a  long  line  on  the  floor  of  the 
valley,  between  Mt.  Gcrizim  and  Mt.  Ebal  (pp.  219,  220),  anciently 
extended  farther  to  the  E.,  perhaps  to  the  spring  of  Defna  (p.  215). 
Its  interior  resembles  that  of  Jerusalem,  but  is  much  better  provided 
with  water.  Of  the  22  springs,  most  of  which  rise  on  Mt.  Gerizim, 
only  about  half  are  dry  in  summer.  Water  is  heard  rushing  under 
every  street.  The  town  contains  few  attractions  beyond  the  bazaar 
and  mosques. 

The  'great  mosque'  of  Jam?  el-Keblr  (PI.  1),  in  the  E.  part  of 
the  town,  was  originally  a  basilica  built  by  Justinian,  and  rebuilt 
by  the  canons  of  the  Holy  Sepulchre  in  1167.  The  E.  portal,  which 
is  well  preserved,  and  resembles  that  of  the  Church  of  the  Sepulchre, 
consists  of  5  recessed  arches,  borne  by  small  semi-columns.  The 
outermost  arch  is  adorned  with  sculptures  in  the  Romanesque  style. 
The  court  contains  a  reservoir  surrounded  by  antique  columns.  Ad- 
mission to  the  interior  is  not  easily  obtained.  —  The  Jdrni'  en-Nasr, 
or  'mosque  of  victory'  (PI.  4),  is  probably  a  Crusaders'  church  too, 
as  certainly  is  the  Jam?  ei-Khadrd  (Pi.  2),  the  'mosque  of  Heaven'. 
The  latter  is  said  to  stand  on  the  spot  where.  Joseph's  coat  was  brought 
by  his  brethren  to  Jacob.  By  the  church  rises  a  kind  of  clock-tower 
resembling  that  of  Er-Itamleh  (p.  12),  a  slab  in  the  wall  of  which 
bears  a  Samaritan  inscription.  —  Immediately  to  the.W.  rises  a  large 
mound  of  ashes,  which  commands  a  good  view  of  the  town.  —  In  the 
N.E.  corner  of  the  town  is  the  Jdmi'  el-Mesdliin.  the  'mosque  of  the 
lepers'  (who  live  there).  It  was  probably  erected  by  the  Crusaders, 
perhaps  as  a  hospital  for  the  Templars.  —  A  little  farther  to  the  N. 
is  shown  what  Muslim  tradition  declares  to  be  the  Tomb  of  Jacob's 
Sons,  beside  a  lately  erected  mosque. 

The  quarter  of  the  Samaritans  is  in  the  S.W.  part  of  the  town. 
Their  Synagogue  (Kenlset  es-Sdmireh)  is  a  small,  whitewashed 
chamber.  The  Samaritan  codex  of  the  Pentateuch  shown  here  is 
old,  but  that  it  was  written  by  a  grandson  or  great-grandson  of 
Aaron  is  a  myth,  as  it  is  certainly  not  older  than  the  Christian  era. 
An  inferior  codex  is  generally  palmed  off  on  travellers:  the  genuine 
codex  is  kept  in  a  costly  case,  with  a  cover  of  green  Venetian  fabric. 
The  fee  to  the  kohen  for  a  single  person  is  2  fr.,  for  a  party  1  fr.  each. 

The  slopes  of  Mt.  Gerizim  afford  the  best  view  of  Nabulus. 
By  the  highest  row  of  gardens  we  turn  to  the  left  ( E.),  and  follow  a 


Ml.  GERIZIM. 


23.  Route.   219 


terrace,  skirting  the  rocky  slope.  The  large  caverns  here  (comp.  tho 
Plan  at  p.  217)  were  probably  once  quarries.  From  the  terrace  wo 
at  length  reach  a  platform.  This  spot  accords  better  than  any  other 
with  tho  narrative  of  Judges  ix.  7-21,  while  the  passage  Joshua  viii. 
30-35  (comp.  Deut.  xxvii.  12)  applies  best  to  the  amphitheatrical 
bays  of  Ebal  and  Gerizim  to  the  E.  of  Nabulus. 

The  usual  route  to  the  top  of  Mt.  Gerizim  (1  hr.)  leads  from  the 
S.W.  comer  of  the  town  and  through  the  valley  ascending  thence 
towards  the  S.,  in  which  (10  min.)  rises  the  copious  spring  Ras 
cl-Ain.  A  climb  of  40  min.  brings  us  to  a  lofty  plain,  where  the 
Samaritans  pitch  their  tents  for  seven  days  (p.  216)  at  the  feast  of 
the  Passover.  Thence  to  the  summit  is  a  walk  of  10  min.  more. 
The  mountain  is  composed  almost  entirely  of  nummulite  limestone 
(tertiary  formation'). 

The  summit  of  Mt.  Gerizim  (2848  ft.),  Arab.  Jebel  et-T6r  or 
el-Kibli  (the  S.  mountain),  consists  of  a  large  plateau,  at  the  N.  end 
of  which  are  the  ruins  of  a  castle,  probably  erected  in  Justinian's 
time  (533),  although  the  walls,  5-10  ft.  thick,  consisting  of  drafted 
blocks,  may  possibly  belong  to  astill  older  structure.  The  castle  forms 
a  large  square  and  is  flanked  with  towers.  Adjoining,  to  the  N.E.,  rises 
the  weli  of  Sheikh  Ghanirn  (magnificent  view  from  the  window,  see 
below),  and  on  the  N.  side  of  the  castle  is  a  large  reservoir.  Of  the 
Church  which  once  stood  here  the  lowest  foundations  only  are  extant. 
It  was  an  octagonal  building  with  an  apse  towards  the  E.,  having 
its  main  entrance  on  the  N.  and  chapels  on  five  sides.  It  is  said  to 
have  been  erected  in  474  (?533).  To  the  S.  of  the  castle  are  walls 
and  cisterns,  and  there  is  a  paved  way  running  from  N.  to  S.  Some 
massive  substructions  a  little  below  the  castle,  to  the  S.,  are  shown 
as  the  twelve  stones  of  the  altar  which  Josb.ua  is  said  to  have  erected 
here  (  viii.  30-32).  In  the  centre  of  the  plateau  the  Samaritans  point 
out  a  projecting  rock  as  having  once  been  the  site  of  the  altar  of  their 
temple.  The  whole  surface  of  the  plateau  seems  to  have  once  been 
covered  with  houses,  as  is  evidenced  by  the  numerous  cisterns  and 
other  remains.  Towards  the  E.  are  several  paved  terraces.  At  the 
S.E.  corner  tho  spot  where  Abraham  was  about  to  offer  up  Isaac  is 
pointed  out.  —  The  summit  commands  a  noble  *Pkospi:ct:  to  the  E. 
lies  the  plain  of  El-Makhna,  bounded  by  gentle  hills,  with  the 
village  of  'Asker  (p.  220)  lying  on  the  N.  side,  and  that  of  Kafr 
KalLin  on  the  S. ;  farther  to  the  E.  arc,  in  the  direction  from  N.  to  S., 
'Azmut,  Salim  (with  Beit  Dejan  behind),  Rujib,  and  rAwerta.  Tho 
valley  to  the  S.  is  the  Wadi  fAwerta.  To  the  E.,  in  the  distance,  riso 
the  mountains  of  Gilead,  among  which  Osha'  (p.  137)  towers  con- 
spicuously. Towards  the  N.  the  Great  llermon  is  visible,  but  the 
greater  part  of  the  view  in  this  direction  is  shut  out  by  Mt.  Ebal. 
Towards  the  N.W.  Carmel  is  visible  in  clear  weather.  Towards  tho 
W.  the  valleys  and  hills  slope  away  to  the  blue  band  of  the  distant 
Mediterranean;  Cssarea  may  sometimes  be  recognized  (S.W.). 


f!M^*<*&*J*rt*r- 


220   Route  23. 


MOUNT  EBAXi. 


The  ascent  of  Mount  Ebal  (3077  ft."),  Arab.  Jebel  Esldmiyeh  or 
esh-Shemdii  ('N.  mountain'),  also  takes  1  hr.  The  path  winds  up  over 
terraces  hedged  with  cactus.  Near  the  top  on  the  W.  side  stands  a 
Muslim  weli  which  attracts  pilgrims  and  is  said  to  contain  the  skull 
of  John  the  Baptist.  The  highest  part  of  the  mountain  is  towards  the 
W.  side;  on  the  summit  are  the  ruins  of  El-Kal'a  ('the  fortress'),  the 
walls  of  which  are  very  thick ;  a  little  farther  to  the  E.  are  other  ruins 
called  Khirbet  Kuneiseh  ('little  church').  The  *View  is  more  open 
than  that  from  Mt.  Gerizim  and  extends  over  the  mountain-chain  of 
Galilee,  from  Carmel  across  the  plain  of  Jezreel  to  Gilboa;  Mt. 
Tabor,  Safed  in  the  extreme  distance  near  Hermon.  the  coast-plain 
to  the  W.,  and  the  distant  mountains  of  the  Ilauran  to  the  E.  are 
all  visible.  —  On  a  hill  a  little  to  the  N.  of  Mt.  Ebal  is  Talluza, 
identified  on  rather  insufficient  grounds  with  Tirsdh,  which  for  a 
time  was  the  capital  of  the  northern  kingdom  (1  Kings  xvi.  8,  etc.). 

Fkom  Nabulus  to  Beisan  and  Tiberias.  The  route  follows  the  great 
Damascus  caravan-road;  to  Beisan  10  lirs.,  thence  to  Tiberias  7  hrs.  — 
We  ride  round  the  E.  side  of  Ebal  to  (25  mill.)  'Asker  (the  S</char  of 
John  iv.  5;  comp.  p.  215).  There  are  rock-tombs  and  a  spring  here.  After 
25  min.  we  pass  opposite  the  villages  of 'Azm&t,  Deir  el-Hatab,  and  Sdlim, 
and  traverse  the  gorge  of  the  Wddi  Biddn  to  (2  hrs.)  Bur j  el- Far' a,  whence 
the  large  Wddi  el-Fdr'a  descends  towards  the  S.E.  to  the  Jordan.  We  cross 
a  hill  to  (1  hr.  10  min.)  the  village  of  TUbds  (Thebez,  Judges  ix.  50;  2  Sum. 
xi.  21).  On  the,  right  (D/4  hr.)  lies  a  small  building  of  ancient  construc- 
tion, probably  a  tomb,  with  a  sculptured  marble  portal.  From  the  village 
of  (5  min.)  Taydsir  the  Wddi  el-Mdlih  descends  to  the  Jordan  ;  and  so  also 
does  the  Wddi  Khazneh  towards  the  N.E.  Descending  the  latter,  our  road 
leads  to  (2  hrs.  50  min.)  the  ruin  of  Ka'un  in  the  wide  Jordan  valley. 
From  Ka'iin  we  ride  to  the  N.  in  1  hr.  to  Tell  Ma'jera,  and  thence  in  1  hr. 
more  to  Beisan  (p.  235).  The  formation  of  the  hills  is  volcanic,  the  rock  basalt. 

From  Beisan  we  at  first  descend  through  underwood  to  the  N.N.E. 
We  cross  (22  min.)  a  copious  brook,  with  a  stony  bed,  and  a  conduit. 
In  40  min.  more  the  large  Wddi  'Es/ieh  descends  from  the  W.  After  1  hr. 
we  see  the  village  of  Kdkab  el-Hawa  on  the  hill  to  the  left.  This  point 
answers  to  the  castle  of  Belvoir,  which  was  erected  by  King  Fulke  at  the 
same  time  as  Safed  (about  1140)  and  taken  by  Saladin  in  1L82  (beautiful 
view  from  the  top,  where  there  arc  extensive  ruins).  In  20  min.  we  reach 
the  Wddi  Bireh,  and  in  1/2  hr.  we  descend  to  the  bridge  of  Jisr  el-Mvjdmi' . 
Hence  to  (4  hrs.)  Tiberias,  see  p.  159. 

Bail  way  from  Beisan  to  Ilaifd  and  to  Samak/i,  see  p.  235. 


24.  From  Nabulus  to  Jenin  and  Haifa. 

From  Nabulus  to  Sebastiyeh  a  ride  of  2  hrs.;  thence  to  Jenin,  where 
the  night  is  passed,  41/2  hrs.  The  pack-animals  are  sent  in  advance  to 
Jenin  by  the  direct  route  via  Beit  Imrin  and  Jebn'  (p.  222).  —  It  takes  7  hrs. 
to  drive  from  Jenin  to  Ilaifd  (carriage  ordered  from  Haifa,  see  p.  225), 
while  riding  takes  D/2-4  hrs.  more.  —  The  water  in  most  of  the  springs 
en  route  is  unwholesome. 

Fkom  Nabi/luis  to  Jenin  via.  Skuastiykh.  The  route  ascends 
the  valley,  following  the  Jaffa  road.  After  2)3  min.  we  see  Rdfidiyeh 
lying  '/4  nr-  to  the  left,  and  soon  afterwards  Zawdta  on  the  hill  to 
the  right.  The  villages  of  (20min.)  Beit  Uzin  and  Beit  lba  (10  min.) 
also  lie  to  the  left.     When  we  come  in  sight  of  a  water-conduit 


'<WM&G%SWfiffi&     Wfe 


^    "     mMJ^'  B*9S 


SEBASTIYI.H. 


2d.  Route.    221 


crossing  the  valley  to  a  mill  we  ascend  out  of  the  valley  to  the  right 
(N.W.).  As  the  road  ascends  it  affords  (20  min.)  a  view  of  the 
village  of  Deir  Sheraf  in  the  valley  below;  on  the  height  opposite 
us  is  Kcistn,  and  to  the  W.  of  it  Beit  Lid ;  by  the  roadside  is  a  spring 
with  good  water.  The  view  becomes  more  extensive  when  we  reach 
the  top  1^/4  nr0 !  t°  the  N.  W.  we  see  R&mtn  and  'Andbetd,  and  En- 
Nilkura  on  the  hill  to  the  right.  We  then  descend  into  the  valley. 
The  road  passes  under  (12  min.)  a  conduit.  On  the  hill  to  the  right 
is  a  weli.  A  final  ascent  of  17  min.  at  length  brings  us  to  Sebastiyeh. 

The  village  of  Sebastiyeh,  the  ancient  Samaria,  which  in  the 
days  of  the  Maccabees  gave  name  to  the  whole  of  Central  Palestine, 
stands  on  an  isolated  terraced  hill,  rising  330  ft.  above  the  valley. 

The  foundation  of  Sltomron  (prob.  'watch-hill's  Aramaic  Shdmerayim, 
Greek  Samdreia)  was  due  to  Omri,  Kin;;  of  Israel  (p.  l.xxxvi ;  1  Kings  xvi.  24). 
The  town  continued  to  be  the  capital  of  the  northern  kingdom  until  it 
was  taken  by  Sargon  in  B.C.  722,  after  a  siege  of  three  years.  In  the 
time  of  the  Maccabees  it  was  again  an  important  and  fortified  place,  but 
it  was  once  more  destroyed  by  Hyreanus  (p.  216.)  in  129  A. D.  Pompey 
included  Samaria  in  the  province  of  Syria,  and  it  was  rebuilt  by  the 
general  Oabinius.  Augustus  presented  the  town  to  Herod  the  Great,  who 
caused  it  to  be  handsomely  restored  and  fortified,  and  gave  it  the  name 
of  isebasle  (Greek  for  Augusta).  A  large  colony  of  soldiers  and  peasants 
was  then  established  in  the  place.  Sebaste.  however,  was  gradually  sur- 
passed in  prosperity  by  Neapolis  (p.  216).  St.  Philip  preached  the  Gospel 
in  Samaria  (Acts  viii.  5),  and  the  place  afterwards  became  an  episcopal 
see,  which  was  revived  by  the  Crusaders. 

Below  the  village  lies  the  Church  of  St.  John,  a  Crusaders'  work 
of  the  second  half  of  the  12th  cent.,  now  converted  into  a  mosque. 
St.  Jerome  is  the  first  author  (4th  cent.)  who  mentions  the  tradition 
that  John  the  Baptist  was  buried  at  Samaria.  The  statement  that  he 
was  beheaded  here  is  of  much  later  origin  (comp.  p.  149).  In  the 
0th  cent,  a  basilica  stood  here.  The  church,  including  the  porch, 
is  b\i  yds.  long  and  25  yds.  wide.  The  nave  is  separated  from  the 
aisles  by  square  piers  with  columns,  on  which  the  pointed  vaulting 
rests.  The  rounded  windows  are  in  the  Romanesque  style.  Both  nave 
and  aisles  ended  on  the  E.  in  apses,  which  have  been  walled  up. 
From  a  small  rock-hewn  chamber  in  the  crypt  we  look  through  holes 
into  three  (empty)  tomb-chambers,  one  of  which  is  said  to  be  the 
tomb  of  the  Baptist  (Nebi  YahydJ,  the  others  those  of  the  prophets 
Obadiah  (probably  from  a  confusion  with  the  official  mentioned  in 
1  Kings  xviii.  3)  and  Elisha.  —  To  the  N.  of  the  church  are 
the  ruins  of  a  large  building,  at  the  corners  of  which  were  square 
towers.  This  was  either  the  residence  of  the  bishop  or  of  the  knights 
of  St.  John. 

In  and  among  the  houses  of  the  modern  village  are  scattered 
many  fragments  of  ancient  buildings,  such  as  hewn  blocks,  shafts 
of  columns,  capitals,  and  portions  of  entablatures.  The  natives,  who 
are,  it  should  be  remembered,  very  fanatical,  offer  coins  and  other 
relics  for  sale.  —  Above  the  village,  to  the  W.,  is  a  large  arti- 
ficially levelled  terrace,  now  used  as  a  threshing-floor.    To  the  W. 


222 


AWe  24. 


SEBASTIYEH. 


From  Nubulus 


of  it  stand  upwards  of  a  dozen  columns  without  capitals,  forming 
an  oblong  quadrangle.  Here  probably  stood  the  temple  which 
Herod  the  Great  is  said  to  have  erected  in  honour  of  Augustus  'on 
a  large  open  space  in  the  middle  of  the  city.'  From  this  terrace 
we  soon  reach  the  top  of  the  hill  (1452ft.  above  the  sea),  which 
is  compared  in  Isaiah  xxviii.  1  to  a  crown  and  commands  an  unob- 
structed view.  Sebastiyeh  is  surrounded  by  ranges  of  gently  sloping 
hills.  Numerous  villages  aT6  visible,  (hi  the  S.W.,  a  little  below 
the  crest  of  the  hill,  the  thick  foundation-walls  of  a  rather  large 
building,  possibly  a  tower,  are  still  visible.  In  the  interior  are  four 
columns.  A  few  sarcophagi  lie  upon  the  hillside.  —  Around  this 
hill,  now  itself  cultivated,  are  terraces  at  several  places.  On  a  terrace 
to  the  S.,  at  about  the  same  level  as  the  village,  runs  the  Street 
of  Coluinri3  which  Herod  carried  round  the  hill.  The  columns,  all 
of  which  have  lost  their  capitals,  are  16  ft.  high  and  some  of  them 
are  monoliths.  The  colonnade  was  about  20  yds.  wide  and  fully 
1  M.  in  length.  —  To  the  N.E.,  where  the  hill  forms  a  bay,  are 
further  numerous  fragments  of  columns,  probably  the  ruins  of  a 
hippodrome  (480  yds.  by  60  yds.);  possibly,  however,  these  belong 
to  a  second  colonnade  which  diverged  at  an  angle  from  the  first. 

Starting  from  the  church  of  St.  John,  we  proceed  to  the  N.  past 
the  hippodrome  mentioned  above  and  descend  into  the  Wddi  Beit 
Imrin  (10  mill.);  the  large  village  of  the  same  name  is  on  the 
mountain  on  our  right.  Beyond  the  valley  we  are  careful  to  take 
the  road  on  the  left  and  ascend  to  (20  min.)  its  N.  margin  (fine 
retrospect  of  the  mountains  of  Samaria).  The  road,  still  ascending 
and  crossing  two  other  roads,  soon  reaches  (25  min.  )  the  top  of  the 
hill,  which  commands  an  extensive  view.  On  the  right  (E.),  on  tho 
hill,  stands  the  weli  of  Kheimet  ed-Dehur.  To  the  N.  is  the  village 
of  SUet  ed-Daltr,  and  somewhat  farther  distant,  beyond  a  beautiful 
little  plain,  are  Er-lldmeh  (Remeth  of  Joshua  xix.  21)  and  'Anza, 
opposite  each  other.  The  road  begins  to  descend  to  the  E.N.E.,  and 
passes  (3/4kr. )  Kl-Fandakumiyeh  (an  ancient  Pentacomias).  At 
(25  min.)  Jeba'  (the  spring  of  which  is  beyond  it)  we  reach  tho 
direct  road  from  Nabulus  to  Jeirin  (p.  220).  "We  follow  the  valley, 
whirh  narrows  towards  its  head,  and  then  emerge  on  a  plain,  in 
35  min.  we  reach  the  foot  of  the  hill  on  which  lies  the  former 
fortress  of  Sdnur,  destroyed  by  Ibrahim  Pasha  in  1839  (p.  lxxxv). 
To  the  E.  lies  the  beautiful  and  fertile  plain  of  Merj  el-(Jh<irnk 
('the  meadow  of  sinking  in'),  upwards  of  1  hr.  in  length,  which 
in  winter  forms  a  swamp.  The  road  skirts  its  W.  side.  On  the 
right,  at  the  end  of  the  plain  (35  min.),  lies  Zebdbda,  to  the  N.  of 
which  is  Mithittyeh  (perhaps  the  Bethuliak  of  the  Book  of  Judith, 
the  site  of  which  must  be  looked  for  in  this  neighbourhood).  Op- 
posite the  latter,  to  the  left,  is  Jerbd. 

The  traveller  who  wishes  to  visit  the  ruins  of  Dothan  diverges  here 
to  the  left,  so  as  to  leave  the  village  of  Jerba  on  the  right.  Ascending 
at  first  towards  the  N.W.,  then  descending  to  the  W.,  we  come  in  a  narrow 


to  Haifa. 


JENIN. 


24.  Route.   223 


ravine  (22  min.)  to  a  footpath  on  the  right  which  leads  to  (1/4  hr.)  Tell 
Dothan.  A  few  ruins  only  lie  on  the  hill  near  some  terebinths.  At  the 
S.  foot  of  the  hill  is  the  spring  El-llafire/i.  This  is  doubtless  the  site 
of  the  ancient  Dothan  (Gen.  xxxvii.  17),  for  which  reason  it  is  still  called 
Jubb  }'6sitf  ('Joseph's  pit').  In  the  time  of  Klisha  a  village  seems  to  have 
stood  here  (2  Kings  vi.  13).  From  Dothan  the  ordinary  route  to  Kvbatiyeh 
may  be  regained  in  22  min. ;  or  Jenin  may  be  reached  by  a  direct  road 
to  it,  passing  a  few  hundred  paces  to  the  W.  of  Dothan. 

At  the  end  of  the  plain  we  enter  a  small  valley  and  riding  to 
the  N.  cross  (25  min.)  a  small  elevation  with  a  fine  view  (Carmel, 
Nazareth,  the  Great  Hermon,  etc.).  On  the  right  stands  a  sacred  tree 
(p.  lxxiv),  hung  with  votive  offerings  and  rags.  The  steep  descent 
leads  through  the  village  of  Kubdttyeh  and  in  t/o  hr.  reaches  the  floor 
of  the  valley.  We  then  follow  the  telegraph-wires  and  after  crossing 
two  other  small  valleys  reach  the  (35  min. )  Wddi  Bel'ameh,  in  which 
Jenin  lies.  The  hrook  is  named  after  the  ruin  of  Khirbet  Bel'ameh 
(Ibleam,  Joshua  xvii.  11;  2  Kings  ix.  27),  at  the  foot  of  which  it 
rises.  Following  its  course, we  come  in  l/g hr.  to  Jenin.  Tents  may 
be  pitched  either  to  the  N.  or  S.  of  the  village.  A  guard  is  necessary. 

Jenin  (Hotel  Jenin  of  the  Hamburg- American  Line),  more  accu- 
rately Jinln,  a  village  of  some  importance,  with  about  1500  inhab., 
including  a  few  Christians,  is  situated  on  the  boundary  between 
the  mountains  of  Samaria  and  the  plain  of  Jezreel.  It  is  the  seat 
of  a  KAimmakiim  (p.  lvii),  and  possesses  a  bazaar,  two  Muslim 
schools,  and  two  mosques,  one  of  which  may  formerly  have  been  a 
church.  An  excellent  spring,  rising  to  theE.,  is  conducted  through 
the  village,  which  also  contains  a  Turkish  telegraph-ofrice.  It  is 
supposed  to  be  the  Ginea  of  Josephus,  which  again  seems  to  answer 
to  the  ancient  'Enganrilm,  or  garden-spring  (Josh.  xix.  21;  xxi.  29), 
within  the  territory  of  Issachar,  and  may  also  be  the  Beth  Hagyan 
or  'garden  house'  of  2  Kings  ix.  27. 

The  Plain  of  Jezreel  (260  ft.),  Greek  Esdraelon,  now  Merj  ibn  'Amir 
(meadow  of  the  son  of  'Amir),  is  properly  only  the  low  ground  by  the 
village  of  Jezreel  (p.  239)  and  descending  thence  eastwards  towards  Beisfui 
(p.  235).  In  a  wider  sense  the  name  embraces  also  the  plain  to  the  W. 
of  the  Gilboa  mountains,  which  is  called  the  'great  plain',  or  plain  of 
Megiddo.  in  the  Old  Testament.  This  plain  is  triangular  in  form,  the 
base  running  from  Jenin  towards  the  N.W.  for  a  distance  of  24  M.,  while 
the  shortest  side  is  the  eastern,  extending  from  Jenin  northwards  to  IksAl. 
It  also  forms  bays  running  up  into  the  mountains  at  several  points.  The 
plain,  though  marshy  at  places,  is  on  the  whole  remarkable  for  its  ferti- 
lity. The  blackish  soil  consists  chiefly  of  decomposed  volcanic  rock.  In 
spring,  when  seen  from  the  mountains,  the  plain  resembles  a  vast  green 
lake.  Cranes  and  storks  abound  here,  and  gazelles  are  sometimes  seen. 
The  plain  is  drained  by  the  Nahr  el-MukiUta',  the  brook  Kuhon  of  the 
Bible  (1  Kings  xviii.  40,  etc.),  which,  however,  is  very  intermittent  except 
in  its  lower  course  from  the  Tell  el-Kussis  (p.  224)  onwards,  where  it  is 
fed  by  the  springs  of  Sa'dfjeh. 

From  Jenin  to  Hatfa.  The  carriage-Toad  (p.  220)  skirts  the 
foot  of  the  hills  towards  the  N.  VV.,  passing  El-  Ydrrwn  (t  hr. ;  left), 
SUt  (25  min. ;  left),  and  (35  min.)  Ta'annak.  The  last-named  vil- 
lage answers  to  the  ancient  Taanach,  a  (Janaanitish  town  allotted 
to  JVlanasseh,  and  mentioned  in  the  song  of  Deborah  (Judges  v.  19). 


HHHHHMHHflBHttffH 


224   iJou<c  24. 


EL-LEJJUN. 


The  high  antiquity  of  the  town  is  confirmed  by  the  recent  excavations 
of  Prof.  Sellin  in  the  hill  adjoining  the  track,  which  brought  to  light  the 
ancient  sanctuary.  In  ihe  interior  were  found,  as  in  Gezer  (p.  13),  clay- 
vessels  containing  the  bodies  of  children  used  in  sacrifices,  numerous 
objects  in  clay  dating  from  the  earliest  times,  and  several  tablets  with 
cuneiform  inscriptions,  similar  to  those  of  Tell  'Amarna  (p.  Ixxv).  One 
of  these,  a  letter  from  the  Prince  of  Megiddo  (see  below),  proves  how  pre- 
dominant the  influence  of  Babylonian  culture  was  here  in  ancient  times. 

About  25  min.  farther  on  we  cross  some  low  hilly  ridges;  to  the 
right  lies  the  village  of  Zebuba.  20  min.  Spring  used  by  the  village 
of  Sallm,  which  lies  on  the  hill  to  the  left;  V4nr*  Selefeh,  above 
us  to  the  left;  25  min.  mill  and  garden  belonging  to  the  village  of 
Khirbet  el-Lejjun,  which  lies  about  3/4  M.  up  the  valley.  In  5  min. 
more  we  reach  the  hill  of  Tell  el-Mutesellim. 

El-Lejjun  corresponds  to  the  Leyio  of  Eusebius.  and  also  to  the  ancient 
Megiddo,  which  is  often  mentioned  in  connection  with  ihe  neighbouring 
Taanach.  The  place  lay  on  the  military  road  leading  from  the  East  to 
Egypt,  and,  owing  to  its  commanding  situation,  was  strongly  fortified  by 
Egyptians,  Canaanites,  and  Israelites  (1  Kings  iv.  12;  ix.  15).  The  sur- 
rounding plain  was  often  named  after  it,  while  the  Kishon  (p.  223)  was 
known  as  the  'waters  of  Megiddo'  (Judges  v.  19).  It  was  near  Megiddo 
that  Barak  and  Deborah  signally  defeated  the  Canaanites  (Judges  v),  and 
it  was  here  also  that  Josiah  attacked  the  Egyptian  army  (2  Kings  xxiii.  29). 
The  excavations  undertaken  by  the  German  Palestine  Society  on  the  Tell 
el-Mutesellim  also  show  that  the  place  was  fortified  in  the  most  ancient  times. 
The  old  castle  or  palace,  dating  from  before  the  20th  cent.  B.C.,  and  the 
ancient  brick  enclosing-wall,  2S  ft.  thick,  prove  the  importance  of  the 
place,  while  the  influence  of  Babylon  is  evidenced  by  a  number  of  gems  and 
cylindrical  seals  found  here.  These  include  the  oldest  known  Hebrew 
seal,  which   belonged   to    a  high   officer   of  King  Jeroboam  II.  (p.  lxxvii). 

Our  route  skirts  the  hill  and  crosses  [}/%  hr.)  a  valley  opening 
to  the  W.;  to  the  right  is  a  spring.  To  the  S.  we  see  the  volcanic 
hill  of  Sheikh  Iskander  ( 1700  ft.);  in  front  ot  us  the  white  chapel 
of  the  Muhraka  (p.  2*28)  is  visible  high  up  on  Mt.  Carmel,  while, 
in  our  rear  we  observe  the  round  summit  of  Mt.  Tabor  (p.  245)  and 
the  mountains  to  the  E.  of  the  Jordan.  In  i/2  hr.  more  we  cross  the 
Wddi  Abu  Shusheh,  beyond  which  lies  the  Tell  Abu  Shusheh,  with 
the  village  of  that  name  above  us  to  the  left.  In  20  min.  we  see  a 
small  brook  to  the  left,  flanked  by  oleanders.  1/4  hr.  Spring  and 
brook  oi'Ain  es-Sureik;  20  min.  bed  of  another  small  brook;  10  min. 
spring  to  the  right  of  the  road;  5  min.  to  the  left,  Beduin  burial- 
place  at  the  foot  of  the  Tell  Kaimun,  which  probably  corresponds 
to  the  ancient  Jokneam  (Josh.  xii.  22,  etc.).  To  the  left  opens 
the  Wddi  el-Milh  (p.  226;  'valley  of  salt').  About  25  min.  farther 
on,  immediately  below  the  Muhraka  chapel,  to  the  right,  on  the 
right  bank  of  the  Kishon,  rises  the  Tell  el-Kassis,  a  barren  hill 
bounding  the  plain  towards  the  W.  On  the  N.  side  of  this  hill  runs 
the  railway  to  Beisan.  The  road  leads  through  (I/4  hr. )  the  Kishon 
(p.  223),  and  then  follows  the  railway,  reaching  the  Nazareth  road 
below  El-Hurithtyeh  (p.  238).  The  bridle-path,  which  is  somewhat 
shorter,  keeps  to  the  left  side  of  the  hill,  and  reaches  the  Nazareth 
road  at  (40  min.)  the  bridge  over  the  Kishon.  —  From  this  point  to 
(8  M.)  Haifa,  see  pp.  238,  237. 


225 


25.  Haifa  and  its  Environs. 

Arrival.  Austrian  and  Egyptian  steamers  (pp.  2,  3)  touch  at  Haifa  once 
a  week  in  each  direction;  an  Italian  steamer  leaves  every  fortnight  for 
Jaffa.  A  small  steamer  plies  twice  a  week  (weather  permitting)  between 
Haifa  and  Acre,  Tyre,  Sidon,  and  Beirut  (voyage  to  Beirut,  14  hrs. ;  fares 
1st  cl.  10,  2nd  cl.  5  fr.).  —  The  harbour  of  Haifa  is  fairly  good,  but  steamers 
have  to  cast  anchor  at  a  considerable  distance  from  shore.  A  larger 
harbour  is  contemplated  in  connection  with  the  railway  to  Damascus 
(p.  235).     Row-boats  as  at  Beirut  (p.  274). 

Hotels.  Hotel  Cakmkl  (PI.  20;  proprietors,  Messrs.  Kraft),  in  the  German 
colony  (p.  226),  pens.  8-10  fr.  per  day,  wine  extra;  Grand  New  Hotel  (kept 
by  A.  flassar):  Ghk.mas  Catholic  Hospice  (PI.  11),  near  tiie  German  colony. 
Accommodation  on  31 1.  Carmel,  see  p.  227.  —  Wine  and  Beer  Rooms.  Pross 
(PI.  21),  Wagner  (PI.  22),  in  the  German  colony. 

Post  Offices.  Austrian,  in  Lloyd's  Office;  French,  near  the  Telegraph 
Office;    Turkish  (PI .  23),  in  the  Telegraph  Office. 

Consulates.  British  (PI.  17),  Abela;  United  States  (PI.  16),  Jon.  Struve; 
Austrian  (PI.  18),  A.  Duck;  German  (PI.  14),  Fr.  Keller  (in  the  German 
colony);  French  (PI.  18),  //.  Gaillardot;  Russian  (PI.  19),  Dr.  Schmidt  (agent); 
Belgian.   Th.  Lange. 

English  Church  (PI.  5a;  p.  220),  service  every  Sunday  at  10  a.m. 

Physicians.  Dr.  Coles,  physician  of  the  English  Hospital  (p.  226);  Dr. 
Schmidt,  Dr.  Peters,  both  in  the  German  colony;  Dr.  Fallscheer  (a  woman). 
Sisters  of  the  order  of  St.  Charles  Borromseus  at  the  German  Catholic 
Hospice  (PI.  11;  sec  above).  —  Chemist:  H.  Jlulach,  near  the  Latin  Church. 

Tourist  Agencies.     Cook  and  Son;  Hamburg  American  Line. 

Bankers.  German  Bank  of  Palestine;  A.  Diick  <(•  Co.,  in  the  town 
(p.  2?6).  Rate  of  Exchange:  1  mejidi  =  23.10  pi. ;  1  beshlik  =  3  pi,  2^/i  pa. ; 
English  sovereign  =  137  pi.;  20 -franc  piece  =  109  pi.;  Turkish  pound 
=  124  pi.  30  pa. ;  1  franc  =5  pi.  to  5  pi.  10  pa. ;  1  shilling  =  6 pi.  10  pa. ;  other- 
wise the  same  as  in  Beirut  (comp.  also  the  table  facing  the  title-page). 

European  Shops  for  travellers'  requisites.  A.  Diick  d-  Co.  (see  above); 
Struve  tt  Beck,  O.  Fischer  Jr.,  both  in  the  town;  0.  Fischer  Sr.  (PI.  25),  J. 
Bitzer,  both  in  the  German  colony.  —  Saddlers.  Kraiss  (PI.  26),  O.  Beck, 
both  in  the  German  colony.  —  Soap.  Struve  &  Co.  (PI.  27).  —  Provisions. 
/.  Beilharz,  Joh.  Ruff  (meat,  etc.);  Miinzenmay,  J.  Stoll  (bread,  etc.);  A.  Diick 

6  Co.  (see  above),  Vincenti  &  Co.,  Germain  (preserves). 

Carriages  and  Horses  should  be  obtained  through  the  hotel.  The  follow- 
ing are  trustworthy  carriage-hirers  and  coachmen,  acquainted  with  the 
roads  in  the  vicinity:   G.  Sus,  Unger  &  Hermann.  —  Charges:  to  Mt.  Carmel 

7  fr.;  to  Nazareth  and  back  30-40  f r. ;  to  Tiberias  and  back  90-100  fr.; 
to  Acre  and  back  12-15  fr.;  to  Safed  and  back  90-100  fr.;  to  Jenin  (p.  223) 
30,  there  and  back  40  fr. ;  to  Jaffa  (p.  231;  H/a-2  days)  100-140  fr.  (ac- 
cording to  the  weather);  to  Zammarin  (p.  232)  and  back  (H/2  day)  30-40  fr. 

Haifa  or  Khaifa,  a  flourishing  seaport  with  about  15,000  inhab., 
is  the  seat  of  a  Kaiimnakam  (p.  lvii),  ami  is  prettily  situated  to  the  S. 
of  the  Bay  of  Acre,  at  the  foot  of  Mt.  Carmel.  It  corresponds  to  the 
Sycaminum  of  Greek  and  Roman  writers.  J)uring  the  Crusades  the 
town  was  captured  by  Tancred,  but  it  reverted  to  Saladin  (p.  lxxxiii) 
in  1127.  After  its  destruction  by  Zahir  el-'Omar  (p.  230)  in  1761, 
it  was  rebuilt  to  the  E.  of  its  old  site.  Under  the  stimulation  of 
the  colony  of  German  Templars  established  here  in  1869,  Haifa" 
has  of  late  made  very  rapid  advances  and  has  absorbed  most  of  the 
trade  of  Acre.  Wheat,  maize,  sesame,  and  oil  are  its  staples.  In 
1903  it  exported  11,400  tons  of  goods,  and  imported  13,500  tons. 
In  1904  its  harbour  was  entered  and  cleared  by  263  steamers  of 


226    Route  25. 


MOUNT  CARMEL. 


Environs 


296,855  tons'  and  974  sailing-vessels  of  13,248  tons'  burden.  — 
Half  the  natives  are  Muslims,  about  400  Latins,  1000  Greeks,  1000 
Jews,  the  remainder  Maronites  and  United  Greeks.  Over  500  of  the 
650  Europeans  are  Germans.  There  are  two  mosques,  several  Christian 
churches  (comp.  PI.  1,  2,  3,  4,  5,  6a),  an  institution  belonging  to 
the  Dames  de  Nazareth  (PI.  8),  a  German  Catholic  Hospice  and 
Sisters'  Home  (Congregation  of  St.  Charles  Borromaeus;  PI.  11),  a 
school  of  the  Freres  des  Ecoles  Chretiennes  (PI.  7),  a  Franciscan 
convent  (PI.  9),  on  the  hill  to  the  S.  of  the  old  town,  a  convent  of 
the  Soeurs  Carmelites  (PI.  2),  to  the  N.W.  of  the  colony,  and  an 
English  church  and  hospital  (PI.  5a;  see  p.  225),  and  schools. 

The  old  town  contains  a  frequented  Bazaar,  and  is  adjoined  on 
the  E.  by  the  newer  quarters  of  the  Haret  csh-Sharktyeh.  Farther 
out  is  a  Jewish  colony.  —  On  the  slope  of  Mt.  Carmel,  to  the  S., 
are  some  old  rock-tombs;  above  these  is  the  castle  of  liurj  es-Sl'im. 

The  dwellings  of  the  German  Colony  to  the  N.W.  of  the  town, 
built  in  the  European  style,  present  a  pleasing  contrast  to  the  dirty 
houses  of  the  Orientals.  The  Templars  (p.  10)  number  about360  souls 
and  possess  a  meeting-house  and  a  school;  the  other  Germans 
(about  160)  in  the  colony  also  have  a  school  and  a  church.  Vineyards 
have  been  planted  by  the  colonists  on  Mt.  Carmel ;  the  wine  is  ex- 
cellent. The  German  cemetery  contains  the  grave  of  Mrs.  Laurence 
Oliphant  (comp.  p.  228;  d.  1886).   Near  it  are  more  old  rook-tombs. 

*Mount  Carmel  (Jebel  Mar  ElyiisJ,  the  beauty  of  which  has 
been  extolled  in  the  Bible  (Isaiah  xxxv.  2  and  Song  of  Solomon 
vii.  5),  stretches  from  Haifa  towards  the  S.E.  for  about  12  M.  and 
reaches  its  highest  point  (1810  ft.)  to  the  S.  of  Esfiyeh  (p.  228). 
On  the  S.  it  is  separated  by  the  WMi  el-Milh  (p.  224)  from  the 
mountains  of  Samaria.  The  mountain  consists  of  limestone  with  an 
admixture  of  hornstone.  Its  rich  vegetation  includes  oaks,  wild 
almond  and  pear  trees,  and  pines.  Thanks  to  the  heavy  dew  which 
falls  every  night,  Mt.  Carmel  remains  green  throughout  the  whole 
year,  a  very  unusual  phenomenon  in  Palestine.  Its  fauna  includes 
gazelles,  partridges,  a  few  roe-deer,  and  an  occasional  wild-cat  (nimr). 
Carmel  has  been  regarded  as  the  'mount  of  Cod'  from  the  earliest 
period,  and  the  miracle  of  Elijah  (1  Kings  xviii)  has  invested  it 
with  special  sanctity  for  both  Jews  and  Christians. 

According  to  the  Bible  story,  King  Atiab  of  Israel  had,  under  the  in- 
fluence of  his  wife  Jezebel  (p.  lxxxvij,  introduced  the  cult  of  Baal,  and 
had  in  consequence  been  punished  by  .lehovah  by  three  years  of  famine. 
Tin  prophet  Elijah  then  appeared  before  him  and  invited  the  priests  id' 
Baal  to  a  test  on  Mt.  Carmel.  While  these  priests  invoked  their  gods  in 
vain,  the  burnt- offering  of  Elijah  was  licked  up  by  fire  descending  from 
heaven.  The  people  thereupon  recognized  the  might  of  .lehovah.  and  at 
the  command  of  Elijah  slew  the  priests  of  Baal.  Tacitus  mentions  an 
altar  to  the  'Cod  of  Carmer  which  stood  here  without  temple  or  image, 
and  Vespasian  caused  the  oracle  of  this,  gud  to  be  consulted.  At  an  early 
period,  many  Christian  hermits  occupied  the  natural  caverns  which  abound 
on  the  mountain,  especially  on  its  W.  side;  some  of  these  still  contain 
Greek  inscriptions.     About  llou'  arose  the  order  of  the  Carmelites, which 


of  ILiifS. 


MOUNT  CARMKL. 


25.  Route.    227 


was  <  nnfirmed  by  Pope  Honorius  III.  in  1207  and  spread  to  Europe  after 
123S.  In  1252  the  monastery  was  visited  liy  St.  Louis.  In  1635  the  church 
was  converted  into  a  mosque.  Afterwards,  however,  the  monks  regained 
their  footing  on  the  mountain.  In  1775  the  church  and  monastery  were 
plundered.  When  Napoleon  besieged  Acre  in  1799  (p.  230)  the  monastery 
was  used  by  the  French  as  a  hospital,  but  on  their  retreat  the  inmates 
were  murdered  by  the  Turks.  The  monastery  was  destroyed  in  1821  by 
r.\ bdal lah  Pasha,  of  Acre,  but  it  was  rebuilt  in  1828. 

Most  travellers  content  themselves  with  a  visit  to  the  N.W. 
summit  of  the  ridge,  which  is  surrounded  on  three  sides  by  the  sea. 
The  magnificent  *View  includes  the  sea,  the  encircling  mountains, 
and  the  coast,  extending  on  the  N.  to  the  lighthouse  of  Tyre  (p.  267) 
and  on  the  S.  to  Ciesarea  (p.  232).  Acre  is  visible  on  the  N.  side 
of  the  bay.  The  mountains,  the  most  prominent  of  which  is  Mt. 
Hermon  (p.  289),  extend  on  the  E.  to  Mt.  Lebanon;  in  the  extreme 
E.  are  the  heights  to  the  E.  of  the  Jordan;  in  the  foreground  is 
Haifa,  embedded  in  groves  of  olives  and  palms. 

A  road  ascends  the  mountain  from  the  German  colony  (p.  226; 
comp.  Plan).  On  the  ridge  (1/a  hr.)  the  road  divides.  The  branch 
to  the  left  leads  to  (20  min.)  the  large  German  concession,  on  which 
stand  a  few  dwelling-houses,  the  old  Hotel  Carmelheim,  and  the 
simple  Carmelheim  Sanatorium  (pens.  4-0  i'r.,  wine  extra).  The 
right  branch  leads  to  the  monastery  (3/4  hr.  from  Haifa),  which  may 
also  be  reached  by  a  somewhat  shorter  bridle-path. —  A  second  but 
much  longer  road  leads  round  the  promontory  (p.  231). 

The  Monastery  (560  ft.  above  the  sea)  is  a  large  and  airy  build- 
ing, occupied  by  18  to  20  monks  and  containing  numerous  rooms 
for  the  accommodation  of  pilgrims.  It  is  shown  to  visitors  by  a  ser- 
vant (fee  6  pi.).  The  church,  with  its  conspicuous  dome,  is  built  in 
the  Italian  style.  The  wall  at  the  back  is  covered  with  line  slabs 
of  porcelain.  On  a  side-altar  is  an  old  wood-carving,  representing 
Elijah.  Below  the  high-altar  is  a  grotto  in  which  Elijah  is  said  once 
to  have  dwelt.  The  spot  is  revered  by  the  Muslims  also.  The  terrace 
of  the  monastery  commands  a  delightful  view.  To  the  N.  of  the 
monastery  stands  the  monument  to  the  French  soldiers  (see  above), 
and  close  by  is  a  building  now  used  for  native  pilgrims,  and  sur- 
mounted by  a  lighthouse,  which  is  visible  at  a  considerable  distance. 
: —  An  aromatic  Carmelite  Spirit  (Eau  de  Me'lisse )  and  a  good  liqueur 
are  distilled  by  the  monks  and  offered  for  sale. 

Leaving  the  monastery-court,  we  turn  to  the  left  and  skirt  the 
wall  round  the  monastery.  The  footpath  on  the  right  descends  in 
0  min.  to  a  chapel  in  memory  of  St.  Simon  Stock,  an  Englishman, 
who  in  the  13th  cent,  became  general  of  the  Carmelite  order.  De- 
scending hence,  and  keeping  to  the  right,  we  reach  a  Muslim  cemetery, 
beyond  which  we  enter  an  enclosure.  Passing  through  the  house, 
which  is  usually  open,  we  come  to  the  door  of  the  so-called  School 
of  the  Prophets,  a  large  cavern,  partly  artificial.  The  Holy  Family 
is  said  to  have  reposed  here  in  returning  from  Egypt.  Fee  to  the 
Muslim  keeper,  2  pi.,  parties  more. 

JJAi^LiuiK's  Palestine  and  Syria.  4th  Edit.  14 


Hi 


228   Route  25. 


EL-MUHRAKA. 


Environs 


Numerous  petrifactions  and  melon-shaped  clusters  of  crystals  are  found 
on  Mt.  Carmel  near  'Ain  Siydh,   about  l'/2  M.  to  the  8.  of  the  monastery. 

The  fatiguing  but  interesting  excursion  to  the  top  of  Mt.  Carmel 
takes  one  day  (guide  necessary).  The  good  road  leads  from  the 
old  hotel  (p.  227)  along  the  ridge  of  Mt.  Carmel  to  the  E.  We  pass 
the  ruins  of  Rushmiya  (on  the  left)  and  in  1  hr.  reach  a  beautiful 
group  of  trees  {Shejardt  el-Arba'tn,  'the  trees  of  the  40'  i.e.  martyrs), 
formerly  a  sacred  grove,  beside  the  ruins  of  Khirbet  el-Khreibi.  After 
35  min.  the  Toad  divides:  the  branch  to  the  right  leads  to  Daliyet 
(see  below).  We  take  the  road  to  the  left  and  reach  (3  4hr.)  the  Druse 
village  of  Esflyeh,  near  the  highest  point  of  Mt.  Carmel  (p.  226). 
Proceeding  to  the  S.E.,  we  reach  (2  his.)  El-Muhraka,  'the  place 
of  burning',  the  S.E.  point  of  Mt.  Carmel  (1685  ft.).  On  the  sum- 
mit is  a  chapel  (with  a  room  where  the  night  may  he  spent;  key  kept 
by  theSheikh  of  Daliyeh),  and  a  little  lowertowards  theE.,  hidden  in 
the  wood,  are  ruins,  possibly  the  remains  of  an  old  castle.  This  spot 
is  said  to  have  been  the  scene  of  the  slaughter  of  the  priests  of  Baal 
( p.  226).  The  *Viuw  from  the  platform  of  the  chapel  is  magnificent, 
especially  to  the  N.  and  E.  We  look  over  the  green  and  yellow  plain 
of  Jezreel  with  the  brook  Kishon;  just  below  us  is  the  Tell  el-Kassh 
(p.  224;  steep  descent,  1  hr.),  behind  it  the  mountains  of  Nazareth, 
Tabor,  Great  and  Little  Hermon,  the  region  beyond  Jordan,  and 
the  chalk  cliffs  of  Eds  en-Nukura  (p.  266)  rising  from  the  sea;  to  the 
S.W.  we  see  the  large  village  of  Ikzim,  the  Jewish  settlement  of 
Zammdrin,  and  the  sea  in  the  neighbourhood  of  Casarea. 

The  return-route  may  be  chosen  via  the  Druse  village  of  Daliyet 
el-Karmal  (1  hr.  W.N.W.).  In  the  prettily  situated  village  is  a  villa 
which  belonged  to  Laurence  Oliphant  (d.  1888).  There  is  a  pretty 
view  of  the  sea  to  the  W.  and  of  the  ruins  of  'Athlit  ( p.  231).  Hence 
to  Haifa  in  4-41/2  his.,  along  the  ridge  of  Mt.  Carmel,  or  via  El-J6z. 

Another  route  is  to  ride  from  DAliijet  to  (4-472  hrs.)  the  Jewish  colony 
of  Zammdrin  (p.  232),  spend  the  night  there,  and  return  the  next  day  by 
Mamdt  (Mii/amds,  50  min.),  Tanttira  (2'/2  hrs.,  p.  231),  and  'Athlit  (S/4  hr., 
p.  231)  to  Haif&  (3  hrs.).         '      ' 

Excursion  to  Acre. 

By  Water  across  the  bay,  I-IV2  hr.,  according  to  the  wind.  By  Lanp, 
2'/^  hrs.  to  ride,  or  l'/2  hr.  to  drive. 

The  road  (good  views)  runs  along  the  sea-coast,  crosses  (20  min.) 
a  bridge  at  the  mouth  of  the  Kishon  (p.  223),  which  is  here  about 
100  ft.  wide,  and  traverses  the  great  plain  of  Acre.  The  beach  is 
strewn  with  beautiful  shells,  and  among  them  are  still  found  the 
murex  bmndctris  and  rnurex  trun cuius,   the  spiny  shells  of  the  fish 


from  which  the  Phoenicians 


indent  times  obtained  the  far-famed 


Tyrian  purple.  The  place  where  these  fish  most  abounded  was  the 
river  Belus,  now  Nahr  Nn'mein,  which  we  reach  in  ca.  2  hrs.  more. 
Pliny  informs  us  that  glass  was  made  from  the  fine  sand  of  this  river, 
and,  according  to  Josephus,  on  its  bank  once  stood  a  large  monument 


of  Haifa. 


ACRE. 


25.  Route.   229 


of  Menmon.  Beyond  the  river,  on  the  right,  rises  the  Tell  el-Fulchdr, 
on  which  Napoleon  planted  his  batteries  in  1799.  On  the  harbour 
are  the  ruins  of  a  tower  of  the  Crusaders.  In  J/4  nr-  we  reach  the 
public  garden  and  in  5  min.  more  the  gate  of  — 

Acre  ('Akkd).  —  Accommodation.   The  Franciscan  Monaster?  (Deir 
Latin ;  PL  4)  affords  unpretending  accommodation ;  introduction  from  Haifa 


ACRE   «    ENVIRONS.   I    j 


desirable.  The  terrace  commands  a  fine  view.  —  Cafes.  In  the  Public 
Garden,  a  popular  resort  on  the  road  to  Haifa  (see  above),  and  at  the 
harbour.  —  Turkish  Post  Office.  International  Telegraph.  —  Physician. 
Br.  Cropper  (English).  —  Hospital  of  the  English  Mission. 

History.  Accho  (Judges  i.  31)  was  not  a  town  of  the  Israelites,  although 
a  Jewish  colony  was  afterwards  established  in  it.  Accho  was  considered 
by  the  Greeks  to  belong  to  Phoenicia.  It  was  afterwards  called  Plolemais  by 
one  of  the  Ptolemies,  perhaps  Ptolemy  Sotcr.  By  Roman  authors,  and  on 
coins,  the  place  is  represented  as  a  colony  of  the  Emperor  Claudius.  It 
was  of  importance  as  a  seaport.  St.  Paul  once  spent  a  day  at  Ptolemais 
(Acts  xxi.  7),  and  during  its  later  Christian  period  the  place  became  an 
episcopal  see,  the  names  of  several  of  the  bishops  being  handed  down  to 
us.  In  6i)8  the  town  was  captured  by  the  Arabs,  after  which  its  Greek 
name  was  again  lost.  It  was  taken  by  Baldwin  I.  in  1104  with  the  aid  of 
a  Genoese  fleet.    Acre  then  became  very  important  as  the  chief  landing- 

14* 


230   Route  25. 


ACHE. 


place  of  the  Crusaders,  and  also  as  a  commercial  place;  the  fleets  of  the 
Cenoese,  Venetians,  and  Pisans  frequented  the  harbour,  and  the  forti- 
fications were  strengthened.  At  length,  in  1187,  after  the  battle  of  Halt  in 
(p.  246),  Acre  was  reduced  by  Saladin.  In  1189  King  Guy  of  Lusignan 
encamped  before  Acre,  while  a  Pisan  fleet  besieged  it  by  sea.  On  June  5th 
1191,  Richard  Cceur-de-I.ion  landed  here,  and  with  his  aid  the  town, 
which  Saladin  had  done  his  utmost  to  save,  was  taken  on  July  L2th 
(eomp.  p.  Ixxxiii).  As  the  sum  which  Saladin  was  to  pay  for  the  ransom 
of  the  prisoners  was  not  forthcoming,  Richard  caused  2500  of  them  to  bo 
massacred  in  a  meadow  near  Acre.  Henceforward  cAkkfi  was  the  chief 
Christian  stronghold  in  the  Holy  Land.  The  headquarters  of  the  orders 
of  knights  were  transferred  thither,  and  the  Knights  of  St.  John  named 
the  town  St.  Jean  d^Acre.  In  1291  Sultan  Melik  el-Ashraf  took  the  place, 
and  thus  put  an  end  to  the  Frankish  domination,  though  rAkka  still  re- 
mained the  usual  landing-place  for  pilgrims  from  the  West.  In  the  middle 
of  the  18th  century  a  certain  Sheikh  Zahir  el-'Omar  made  himself  master 
of  Central  Palestine  and  chose  Acre  as  his  residence.  The  town  now 
rapidly  began  to  prosper.  His  successor  was  the  infamou."  and  cruel  Jezzar 
Pasha,  who  established  for  himself  an  extensive  independent  sovereignty, 
extending  to  the  X.  as  far  as  the  Dog  River  and  Ba'albek,  and  to  the  S. 
as  far  as  Csesarea.  He  was  chiefly  famous  for  his  buildings,  for  which  he. 
caused  ancient  materials  to  be  brought  from  Ascalon  (p.  121),  Csesarea 
(p.  232),  and  other  districts.  In  1799  Acre  was  successfully  defended 
against  Napoleon  by  the  garrison,  aided  by  some  British  sailors  under 
Sir  Sidney  Smith.  Jezzar  Pasha  died  in  1804,  and  the  country  was  now 
more  peacefully  governed  by  his  son  Soliman.  In  1832  Ibrahim  Pasha 
took  and  destroyed  the  town,  but  soon,  as  on  former  occasions,  it  sprang 
up  anew.  In  1840  Acre  was  bombarded  for  a  short  time  by  vessels  of  the 
united  fleets  of  England,  Austria,  and  Turkey.  The  town  having  thus  so 
often  been  destroyed,  it  is  almost  destitute  of  antiquities. 

Acre,  a  seaport  with  11,000  inliab.  (over  3000  Christians  and 
Jews)  and  the  seat  of  a  Mutesarrif  (p.  lvii),  is  situated  on  a  small  pro- 
montory, at  the  S.E.  end  of  which  remains  of  a  mole  are  still  seen 
under  water.  The  only  gate  is  on  the  E.  side.  The  ramparts  date  in 
part  from  the  times  of  the  Crusaders.  The  harbour  of  Acre  was 
etitered  and  cleared  in  1904  by  121  steamers  of  79,421  tons'  and  1078 
sailing-vessels  of  17,037  tons'  burden.  The  harbour  is  now  much 
choked  with  sand.  The  English  Mission  has  a  station  here,  with  a 
school  and  a  small  hospital.  The  town  also  contains  numerous  higher 
and  elementary  Muslim  schools,  and  elementary  schools  of  the  Latins, 
the  United  and  the  Orthodox  Greeks,  and  the  Jews.  —  The  spacious 
but  tasteless  Mosque,  in  the  N.  part  of  the  town,  was  built  by  Jezzar 
Pasha  with  ancient  materials;  the  columns  are  from  Casarea.  Jezzar 
himself  is  buried  in  the  court.  By  the  N.  entrance  is  an  elegant  foun- 
tain. —  The  present  military  hospital  is  said  ouce  to  have  been  the 
residence  of  the  Knights  of  St.  John.  —  Opposite  the  lighthouse  are 
several  interesting  old  vaults  with  apsidal  recesses  and  ornamen- 
tations j  above  are  the  remains  of  a  Crusaders'  church,  some  columns  of 
which  maybe  seen  in  the  house  of  the  Latin  Sisterhood.  The  church 
of  the  United  Greeks  retains  traces  of  an  ancient  apse.  —  On  the 
N.E.  side  of  the  town  is  a  fine  aqueduct  constructed  by  Jezzar  Pasha. 

From  Acee  to  Safed,  two  days.  The  road,  which  is  practicable  for 
carriages  (fares,  p.  223)  in  summer,  leads  via  El-Berteeh,  Mejd  ei-Kertimt 
ErR&meh,  and  MeirSn.    romp,  the  3Iap,  p.  220. 

From  Acre  to  Nazareth,  see  p.  238. 


231 


26.  From  Haifa  to  Jaffa  via  cAthlit  and  Csesarea. 

This  is  a  fatiguing  trip,  taking  l'/2-2  days  (ca.  20  lirs.)  by  carriage  and 
2-3  days  on  horseback.    The  times  here  given  refer  to  riders. 

'Athlil,  3  hrs.;  Tanlih'a,  l3/4  hr.;  Zammdrin,  ls/4  hr. ;  Caesarea,  2'/4  hrs.j 
El-Khudeira,  1  hr. :  Jaffa,  9  bis.  Accommodation  for  the  night  may  be  found 
at  Zammarin  (p.  232)  and  Kalansdweh  (p.  232),  the  former  being  preferable. 
It  is  advisable  for  riders  to  take  a  khayyal  as  escort. 

Starting  from  the  German  colony  (p.  226),  the  road  leads  to  the 
W.  throngh  the  fields.  To  the  right  are  the  convent  of  the  Sceurs 
Carmelites,  churchyards,  and  the  German  windmills.  After  !/2  nr- 
we  skirt  the  hase  of  Mt.  Carmel.  After  1/4  hr.  we  reach  Tell  es- 
Semek  (a  hill  with  ruins);  on  our  left  is  the  road  to  the  convent 
and  a  few  minutes  farther  on  a  footpath  to  the  'Spring  of  Elijah'. 
20  mtn.  German  Templar  Colony  of  Neuhardthof,  founded  in  1898-99, 
and  the  ruins  of  Kafr  es-Sdmir,  at  the  foot  of  Mt.  Carmel,  both  to  the 
left.  40  min.  Et-Tireh  on  our  left,  and  on  our  right  Bir  el-Keniseh, 
so  named  from  the  ruins  close  by.  35  min.  Blr  el-Beddwtyeh  on  the 
right.  After  25  min.  we  reach  the  ruins  of  Dustrei  ('de'troit'),  a 
mediaival  fort,  belonging  to  the  outer  wall  of  'Athlit.  The  fort  com- 
mands the  pass  (Petra  Incisa?  'the  hewn-out  rock')  which  leads 
through  the  rocks  here.  Traversing  this  pass,  we  reach  C/4  hr.)  'Athlit. 

'Athlit,  celebrated  in  the  period  of  the  Crusaders  under  the  name 
of  Castellmn  Peregrinorum,  or  Castle  of  the  Pilgrims,  and  also  known 
as  Petra  Incisa  (^see  above)  at  the  beginning  of  the  13th  cent.,  was 
strongly  fortified  by  the  Templars  in  1218  and  made  chief  seat  of 
the  order.  In  1291  it  was  destroyed  by  Sultan  Melik  el-Ashraf 
(p.  230).  It  is  now  an  insignificant  village,  belonging  to  Baron 
E.  Rothschild,  of  Paris.  'Athlit  occupied  a  very  strong  position  on 
a  rocky  mountain-spur  between  two  bays.  The  outer  wall  had  two 
towers  and  three  gates  to  the  E.,  and  one  gate  to  the  S.;  the  moat 
could  be  (ilLed  from  the  sea.  The  inner  wall  had  only  one  gate  (on 
the  E.),  which  was  protected  by  bastions.  In  front  of  the  gate  was 
a  moat,  and  then  a  wall  with  an  outer  moat.  The  principal  ruins  are 
on  the  N.E.,  where  the  remains  of  the  tower  El- Kami f eh,  built  of 
beautiful  drafted  blocks,  and  also  large  vaults  are  to  be  seen.  Many 
of  the  stones  used  for  the  buildings,  especially  those  of  the  decagonal 
Crusaders'  church,  have  been  transported  to  Acre. 

Proceeding  to  the  S.E.  from  'Athlit  and  passing  by  the  ruins  of 
the  S.  tower  of  the  outer  wall,  we  reach  (25  min.)  the  village  oiJeba' 
(left);  after  */2  nr-  we  Pass  Sarafand  on  our  left;  after  12  min.  we 
see  Kafr  Lam  on  our  left,  with  the  ruins  of  a  Crusaders'  fort,  and 
farther  up,  on  the  hill,  'Ain  Qhazal;  we  then  pass  the  ruins  otHaidara 
and  reach  (40  min.)  — 

Tantura,  the  ancient  Dor  (Josh.  xvii.  11;  Judg.  i.  27)  and  the 
seat  of  one  of  Solomon's  officers,  now  an  unimportant  village  of  a 
few  hundred  inhabitants. 

Classical  authors  mention  Dora  as  a  Phoenician  colony.  On  the  rocky 
coast  here  the  murex,  or  purple  shell-fish,  was  captured  in  large  quantities, 


232   Route  26. 


CLE  S  ARE  A. 


From  Haifa 


and  was  apparently  the  source  of  the  prosperity  of  the  place.  In  the  in- 
scription of  Esbmunazar  (p.  273)  the  epithet  'mighty''  is  applied  to  the 
town.  During  the  ware  of  the  Diadochi  Dor  was  destroyed.  The  Roman 
general,  Gabinius,  restored  the  town  and  harbour.  In  the  time  of  St.  Jerome 
the  ruins  of  'this  once  very  great  city'  were  still  an  object  of  admiration. 

Opposite  the  little  town  are  several  small  islands,  and  between 
it  and  the  hills  to  the  E.  lies  a  swamp.  To  the  N.  rises  a  rocky 
eminence  bearing  the  ruins  of  a  high  tower,  El-Burj  or  Khirbet 
Tantura;  it  formed  part  of  a  strong  fort  built  by  the  Crusaders.  On 
the  S.  side  of  the  rock  are  several  caverns.  To  the  N.  of  the  tower 
is  the  port  of  the  ancient  town;  remains  of  the  harbour  buildings 
(a  large  structure  with  columns)  are  stil]  visible  on  the  shore  below. 
Old  tombs  are  also  to  be  found.  A  road  led  from  the  ruins  to  l.l- 
Hanndneh  (ancient  cistern),  where  a  few  ancient  columns  are  still 
standing. 

The  road  now  bends  towards  the  mountains;  after  ca.  l^hr.  we 
reach  Zammdrin,  a  Jewish  agricultural  colony  maintained  by  Baron 
Rothschild.  Tolerable  accommodation  may  be  obtained  in  a  small 
hotel  here.    Many  of  the  colonists  speak  German. 

We  descend  hence  in  a  S.E.  direction  (50  min.)  Mdmds  (Miya- 
mds),  passing  numerous  remains  of  columns.  On  the  right  is  a 
khan,  which  was  formerly  a  fort  and  adjoins  an  ancient  Roman 
theatre.  Remains  of  the  aqueduct  are  also  visible:  it  ran  along  here 
from  the  springs  of  Sindydneh  (E.)  to  Cscsarea.  —  A  little  farther 
on  we  cross  a  bridge  over  the  Nahr  ez-Zerkd  ('the  blue  river),  the 
Crocodile  River  of  Pliny.  Strabo  also  mentions  a  town  named  Cro- 
codilon.  As  the  climate  of  this  region  resembles  that  of  the  Delta 
of  the  Nile,  there  is  nothing  extraordinary  in  the  appearance  of  cro- 
codiles here;  some  German  colonists  from  Haifa  shot  a  female  cro- 
codile here  in  1877. 

After  crossing  the  bridge  the  road  divides  :  the  branch  to  the  right 
leads  to  Caesarea  (see  below);  the  other  leads  to  the  S.,  via  (11  M.) 
Kdhun,  (5  M.)  Kalansdweh  (nightquarters  if  necessary  in  the  khan), 
with  two  Crusaders'  castles,  (4t/2  M-)  Et-Ttreh,  (4  M.)  Kafr  Saba,  and 
(2  M.)  Btr  'Adas,  to  the  (4  M.)  New  Bridge  over  the  Nahr  el-'Aujd, 
ili  hr.  below  Rds  el-'Ain  (p.  10).    This  point  is  9^2  M.  from  Jaffa. 


The  Digression  to  C2esarea  can  be  made  only  in  dry  weather. 
From  the  bridge  over  the  Nahr  ez-Zerka  (see  above),  we  reach  the 
ruins  in  l1^  hr.  Circassians  have  been  settled  here  since  1884  and 
can  supply  rough  nightquarters  in  case  of  need. 

Ruins  of  Caesarea  (Kaisdrlych).  —  The  history  of  the  town  begins 
with  Herod  the  Great,  who  erected-  a  magnificent  seaport  on  the  site  of 
'Strata's  Tower'',  and  named  it  Caesarea  or  Kaisaria  Sebatle,  in  honour  of 
Augustus  (B.C.  13;  Joseph.  Bell.  Jud.  1.  21,  5-8;  etc.).  Cscsarea  soon  became 
the  most  important  city  in  Palestine,  and  was  appointed  the  residence  of 
the  Roman  procurators.  Vespasian  and  Titus  bestowed  upon  it  the  privi- 
leges of  a  Roman  colony.  SS.  Paul,  Philip,  and  Peter  visited  the  place, 
and  St.  Paul  was  a  prisoner  here  for  two  years.  About  A.D.  200  Caesarea 
became  the  residence  of  a  bishop,  who  down  to  451  was  the  metropolitan 


to  Caesarea. 


OiESAllKA. 


26.  Route.   233 


of  all  the  bishops  of  Palastina  Prima,  including  even  the  bishop  of  Jeru- 
salem. As  early  as  the  3rd  cent,  the  city  possessed  a  learned  school  at 
which  Origen  once  taught,  and  where  Eusebius  (d.  340,  afterwards  bishop 
of  Csnsarea,  was  educated).  At  a  later  period  the  town  is  said  to  have 
been  besieged  by  the  Muslims  for  seven  years,  and  to  have  capitulated 
at  last.  In  1101,  when  it  was  besieged  and  taken  by  Baldwin  I.,  it  yielded 
a  rich  booty.  Among  other  prizes  was  found  a  hexagonal  vase  of  green 
crystal,  supposed  to  have  been  used  at  the  Last  Supper.  This  vase  plays 
an  important  part  in  medict-val  poetry  as  the  'holy  grail'.  During  the 
Crusaders'  period  the  town  was  twice  rebuilt  by  the  Crusaders,  but  it 
was  destroyed  by  Beibars  in  1265.  A  great  part  of  the  ruins  was  carried 
away  in  the  19th  cent.  (comp.  p.  230),  and  the  work  of  destruction  is  still 
going  on. 


The  Mediaeval  Town,  which  occupied  a  part  only  of  the  area  of 
the  Roman  town,  was  built  in  the  form  of  a  rectangle,  measuring 
600  yds.  from  N.  to  S.  and  250  yds.  from  E.  to  W.  The  walls,  which 
are  scarped,   are  8y2  ft.  thick  and  are  enclosed  by  a  moat,   lined 


eS&Sffiffi 


234   Route  26. 


ARSUF. 


with  masonry,  about  40  ft.  wide.  Bastions,  33-53  ft.  wide  and 
projecting  23-30  ft.,  occurred  at  intervals  of  16  to  29  yds.  along 
the  wall ;  nine  of  them  may  still  be  counted  along  the  E.  side.  The 
E.  and  N.  walls  had  each  a  strong  tower  in  the  middle,  and  the  E. 
and  S.  walls  had  each  an  entrance-gate.  That  in  the  S.  wall  is  still 
in  existence.  The  ruins  are  all  of  sandstone,  with  the  exception 
of  the  fragments  of  columns  of  grey  and  reddish  granite.  —  Within 
the  wall  on  the  S.  side  of  the  town  are  the  remains  of  a  large  church 
of  the  Crusaders'  period  (PI.  1),  the  three  apses  of  which  are  still 
recognizable.  A  little  to  the  N.  of  the  church  are  the  ruins  of  what 
has  been  supposed  to  be  the  temple  (l'l.  2)  erected  by  Herod  in 
honour  of  Cssar.  Not  far  from  the  mole,  which  is  almost  entirely 
built  of  columns  and  enemies  the  harbour  on  the  N.,  are  the  ruins 
of  a  smaller  church  (Pi.  3).  —  On  the  S.W.  side  a  ridge  of  rock, 
bounding  the  small  harbour,  runs  out  into  the  sea  for  about  250  yds. 
This  natural  pier  was  enlarged  by  Herod,  and  on  it  stood  his  so- 
called  Tower  of  Drusus.  Large  blocks  of  granite  are  still  seen 
under  water.  The  foundations  only  of  the  Temple  of  Caesar  are  now 
extant,  and  their  white  stones  confirm  the  statement  of  Josephus 
that  the  materials  for  it  were  brought  from  a  great  distance.  The 
extremity  of  the  reef  was  probably  the  site  of  the  'Tower  of  Strato' 
(PI.  4).  Adjacent  are  the  remains  of  a  mediaeval  castle  (PI.  5),  within 
which  a  government  building  has  been  erected. 

The  Roman  Town  covered  an  area  of  some  370  acres.  To  the  S. 
of  the  town,  5  min.  beyond  the  gate  of  the  mediaeval  wall,  is  traceable 
the  vast  amphitheatre  of  Herod,  turned  towards  the  sea.  It  was 
formed  of  earth  and  accommodated  20,000  spectators.  The  N.  and 
S.  walls  are  each  furnished  with  a  tower  at  the  sea- end.  The 
whole  was  afterwards  converted  into  a  fortress  and  surrounded  by  a 
moat.  In  the  middle  of  it  are  remains  of  a  semicircular  building, 
probably  a  theatre,  which  could  be  filled  with  sea-water  by  means 
of  canals  and  turned  into  a  nauuiachia.  —  In  the  S.E.  corner  of  the 
town  (a  little  to  the  N.E.  of  the  amphitheatre)  are  the  remains  of  a 
hippodrome.  —  The  town  was  supplied  with  water  by  two  aque- 
ducts. One  of  these  is  a  tunnel  coming  from  the  Nahr  ez-Zerka 
(p.  2;]2)  on  the  N.,  and  a  wall  was  built  for  the  purpose  of  directing 
the  waters  of  the  marshy  land  into  this  channel.  The  other  aqueduct 
comes  from  Miyamas  (see  p.  232). 

Those  travelling  by  carriage  must  return  from  Ceesarea  to  the  carriage 
road  (p.  232).  Eiders  may  proceed  directly  (to  Jaffa  about  lOhrs.)  by  the 
road  to  the  S.  to  (3/4  hr.)  the  Nahr  el-Mefjir  (or  Wddi  el-Khwleira);  10  min. 
El-Khudeira,  a  village  where  nightquarters  may  be  obtained;  l'/4  '"*•  Nahr 
Itkanderdneh  (Abu  Zabtira).  After  10  min.  the  road  bends  inland,  to  the 
left;  in  I.1/4  hr.  we  come  <o  Mukhdlid,  and  in  l'/a  hx.  more  to  Nahr  el-FAlik 
(with  ruins  of  the  same  name),  in  the  spring  an  extensive  swamp  with 
papyrus-plants.  In  l'/s  hr.  we  reach  the  ruins  of  Arsuf.  Arsilf  is  the 
Apollonia  of  the  ancient  geographers  ;  the  modern  name  seems  to  be  con- 
nected with  the  god  Reseph,  who  was  identified  with  Apollo.  In  the 
middle  ages  this  place  was  believed  to  be  the  ancient  Antipatrii.  The  ruins 
date  from  the  period  of  the  Crusaders  and  are  gradually  disappearing.     In 


BEISAN. 


27.  Route. 


235 


the  plain  of  Arsuf  a  great  battle  was  foaght  on  Sept.  7th,  1191,  between 
the  Crusaders  (Richard  Cceur-de-  Lion)  and  the  Saracens  (Saladin).  In 
18  min.  we  reach  the  Ilaram  'AH  ibn  'Aleim  (Sidna  'AH),  a  Muslim  pilgrim- 
resort  with  ruins  and  the  remains  of  a  harbour.  Hence  along  the  sea- 
coast  to  (1  hr.  20  min.)  the  ford  of  the  Nahr  el-'Aujd  (p.  10)  and  to  (2  hrs.) 
Jaffa-  In  spring,  however,  when  the  river  is  very  full  of  water  and  not 
fordable,  it  is  better  to  ride  into  the  country  to  El-Jelil  (Va  hr.)  and  thence 
in  l'/4  br.,  passing  the  Sheikh  Mu'annis,  to  the  Old  Bridge  (comp.  p.  232). 
From  the  bridge  past  the  German  colony  Sarona  to  Jaffa  in  2  hrs. ;  see  p.  10. 


27.  From  Haifa  to  Damascus  by  Railway. 

The  line  from  Haifd  to  Derdt  (100  M.)  was  constructed  by  the  Turkish 
government  to  connect  the  Hejaz  Railway  (p.  151)  with  the  coast,  and  was 
opened  on  Oct.  15th,  1905.  —  For  the  present,  threejfrains  ply  weekly  in 
both  directions,  leaving  Haifa  on  Mon.,  Wed.,  ana  Sat.  ai  6  a.  m.  and 
stopping  at  numerous  stations,  including  (36'/2  M.)  BeUdn,  (53'/^  M,)  Samakh 
and  (100  M.)  Uer'dt.  At  Dercat  we  connect  with  the  line  to  Damascus 
(pp.  152,  151). 

The  liailicay  Station  of  Haifa  lies  to  the  E.  of  the  town,  near  the  sea, 
11  ft.  above  sea-level.  Carriage  to  or  from  the  hotel  in  the  German  colony, 2fr. 

The  railway  skirts  the  N.  edge  of  Mount  Carmel  and  runs  to  the 
S.E.,  parallel  with  the  carriage- road,  through  the  plain  of  the 
Kishon.  On  the  right  are  the  villages  of  Beled  esh-Sheikh,  El-Ydjur, 
ami  Kl-Jelameh.  After  8M.  we  cross  the  Kishon  (p.  224).  The  line 
follows  the  N.  hank  of  the  stream,  and  to  the  N.  of  the  Tell  el-Kassts 
(p.  224)  enters  the  Plain  of  Jezrecl  ( p.  223),  which  it  crosses  in  an 
almost  straight  S.E.  direction.  After  passing  the  station  of  (iSl/^M.) 
Tell  esh-Shammcin,  it  reaches  the  foot  of  the  Nebi  Dahi  (p.  240)  at 
( 23  M.)  El-Fuleh.  It  then  descends  the  Nahi  Jalud  (p.  130),  passing 
(31V,  M.)  ShatttL 

36V2M.  Beisan  (430  ft.  below  the  level  of  the  Mediterranean)  is 
the  capital  of  a  Mudiriyeh  (p.  lvii),  contains  about  2500  inhab.,  and 
lies  in  an  expansion  of  the  valley  of  the  Nahr  Jalud,  which  slopes 
down  hence  to  the  depression  of  the  Ghor(p.  130),  upwards  of  BOO  ft. 
helow.  The  district  belongs  to  the  imperial  domain  (Jiftlik).  The 
Old  Testament  Beth- Shean  or  Beth-Slum  was  much  more  extensive 
than  the  present  village.  During  the  reign  of  Saul  it  still  belonged 
to  the  Canaanites  (Judg.  i.  27  et  seq. ;  1  Sam.  xxxi.  10),  though  it 
lay  in  the  territory  of  Manasseh  (Josh.  xvii.  11).  David  seems  to 
have  conquered  Beth-Shean,  and  one  of  Solomon's  officers  resided 
here  (1  Kings  iv.  12),  but  it  never  became  a  Jewish  town  (2  Mace, 
xii.  30).  In  the  Greek  period  the  town  was  called  Scijthopolis,  and 
belonged  to  the  Decapolis  (p.  lxxix).  In  the  Christian  period  Scytho- 
polis  was  an  episcopal  see.  In  the  time  of  the  Crusades  it  was 
known  by  both  its  names.  Numerous  palms  are  said  to  have  once 
nourished  in  the  environs,  but  in  the  13th  rent,  the  Arab  geographer 
Yakut  saw  two  only. 

The  most  important  ruins  are  the  following:  1.  To  the  W.  of  the 
village  a  hippodrome,  now  almost  concealed  by  vegetation.  —  2.  To 
the  N.E.  the  foundation-walls  of  the  mosque  Jdmir  el-Arba'inOhazdwi, 


"Wm  ^~v«,4**:#y;- aft 

■  ■  ■  H 


236   Route  27. 


SAMAKII. 


From  Haifa 


finished  in  1403-4.  It  was  formerly  a  church;  the  apse  is  still 
distinctly  traceable  at  the  E.  end.  —  3.  Proceeding  N.W.  from  the 
mosque  and  passing  some  tombs,  we  come  to  the  great  amphitheatre 
(El-'Akud)  in  the  bed  of  the  valley,  the  best-preserved  theatre  in 
the  country  to  the  W.  of  the  Jordan.  It  is  60  yds.  in  diameter  and 
had  12  tiers  of  seats.  The  passages  and  outlets  of  the  interior  are 
still  preserved.  The  remarkable  recesses  probably  served  to  improve 
the  acoustics  of  the  theatre.  —  4.  A  colonnade  once  led  along  the 
brook  in  a  N.E.  direction  to  an  ancient  bridge,  Jisr  el-MaktiV,  a 
little  below  the  point  where  the  brook  flows  into  the  Nahr  Jalud. 
—  5.  On  the  other  side  (N.)  of  the  bridge  are  remains  of  an  old 
street ;  to  the  left  is  Tell  el-Mastaba  with  the  ruins  of  a  fort;  to  the 
right,  near  some  columns,  is  the  reservoir  El-Hammdm ;  close  by 
are  numerous  rock-tombs  and  still  farther  to  the  S.  a  large  rock- 
tomb  called  Maghdret  Abu  Ydghi.  —  6.  On  the  hill  Tell  el-IIum,  to 
the  N.  of  the  theatre,  are  traces  of  the  thick  wall  which  once  enclosed 
the  summit,  and  a  partially  preserved  portal.  The  view  extends  to 
the  W.  up  to  Zer'in  in  the  valley  of  Jezreel.  To  the  E.  and  S.  we 
look  down  into  the  Ghor,  and  beyond  it,  to  the  E.,  are  Kalrat  er- 
Kubud,  etc.  —  7.  Interesting,  too,  is  the  upper  bridge  Jisr  el-Khan, 
at  the  N.W.  extremity  of  the  territory  of  Beisan.  From  the  bridge 
we  obtain  a  pretty  view  of  the  valley  with  its  numerous  columns 
and  other  ruins.  If  we  follow  the  old  road  from  the  bridge  north- 
wards, we  reach  [}l±  hr.)  the  large  Khan  el-Ahrnar,  the  greater  part 
of  which  is  built  of  ancient  materials. 

Leaving  Beisan,  the  train  first  ascends  the  W.  side  valley  of  the 
Jordan,  and  then  crosses  the  river  close  to  the  S.  of  the  old  bridgfe 
of  Jisr  el-Mujdmi'  (47 V2  M.;  p.  220).  The  railway-bridge,  65  yds. 
in  length,  marks  the  lowest  point  of  the  line  (816  ft.  below  the 
level  of  the  sea").  After  crossing  the  (49  M.)  Yarmuk  close  to  its 
junction  with  the  Jordan,  we  continue  along  the  E.  side  of  the  valley, 
and  reach  the  Lake  of  Tiberias  at  the  unimportant  village  of  — 

53Va  M-  Samakh  (610  ft.  below  the  level  of  the  sea).  The  trip 
from  Samakh  to  Tiberias  (carriage-road  under  construction)  must 
for  the  present  still  be  made  by  boat  (2fr.  each  person). 

The  line  now  enters  the  mountains  of  the  country  E.  of  the 
Jordan,  and  commences  to  ascend  the  valley  of  the  Yarmuk.  This 
river,  which  derives  its  Arab  name,  SherVat  el-Menddireh  from  the 
Beduin  tribe  'Arab  el-Menddireh,  was  known  to  the  Greeks  as 
Hieromyces,  a  corruption  of  Yarmuk,  the  name  given  to  it  in  the 
Talmud.  It  descends  from  the  Hainan  and  Jolan,  separating  the 
latter  from  the  Jebcl  'Ajlun  to  the  S.  Its  volume  is  nearly  as  great 
as  that  of  the  Jordan.  The  deep  valley  through  which  it  flows 
penetrates  rocks  of  limestone;  but,  after  the  channel  had  been  hol- 
lowed out,  the  valley  must  have  been  covered  with  a  stream  of  vol- 
canic, rock,  through  which  the  river  had  to  force  a  new  passage. 

Alter  twice  crossing  the  river  the  line  reaches  — 


to  Damascus. 


wAdi  kleit. 


27.  Route.   237 


63  M.  El-Hammi,  with  the  famous  hot  springs  of  Gadara  or 
Amalha.  The  sanatory  properties  of  these  springs  are  highly  extolled 
byEusebius  and  many  other  ancient  writers,  and  they  are  to  this  day 
■visited  by  many  persons  during  the  season  (April).  The  principal 
springs  arc  situated  in  a  small  open  space  on  the  right  bank  of  the 
river.  Around  the  large  basin,  which  is  partly  artificial,  are  traces  of 
vaulted  bath-houses.  The  water  smells  and  tastes  of  sulphur,  and 
though  clear  in  appearance,  deposits  on  the  stones  a  sediment  which 
is  used  medicinally.  The  Beduins  regard  the  bathing-place  as  neutral 
ground.  The  ancient  Gadara,  now  named  Mukeis  (see  p.  159),  lies 
on  the  height  to  the  S.  of  the  river,  1  hr.  distant  from  the  springs. 

The  line  continues  to  follow  the  Yarmuk  valley,  recrossing  to 
its  S.  side.  The  passage  of  the  narrow  gorges,  with  their  steep  rocky 
sides  and  (in  the  rainy  season)  rushing  torrents,  presents  a  series 
of  picturesque  views.  A  number  of  similar  deep  wadis  debouch  from 
both  sides  into  the  Yarmuk  valley.  Just  before  reaching  .the  mouth 
of  the  Wddi  Ain  Ghazdl  (left;  S.),  the  line  crosses  again  to  the  N. 
side  of  the  valley.  It  then  threads  several  tunnels.  The  Wddi  Kleit 
then  joins  the  valley  from  the  left  (S.). 

6672  M.  Station  of  Wddi  Kleit.  The  Yarmuk  is  now  joined 
on  the  right  (N.)  side  by  the  Nahr  er-Rukkdd,  which  rises  on  the 
S.  slopes  of  Mount  Ilermon.  Though  this  is  the  chief  river  of  the 
Jolan,  it  is  quite  dry  in  summer.  At  the  confluence  of  the  two 
rivers  we  are  still  157  ft.  below  the  level  of  the  sea. 

74  M.  Esh-Shajara.  —  77  M.  Tell  el-Makurim  lies  at  the  junction 
of  three  important  streams:  the  Wddi  esh-Shelldleh  {]>.  ibQ ),  coming 
from  the  S.E. ;  the  Wddi  ez-Zeidi  (see  below),  from  the  E.;  and  the 
main  source  of  the  Yarmuk,  from  the  N.E.  The  upper  part  of  the 
last  is  known  as  the  Wddi  el-Ehreir.  The  line  now  leaves  the  Yarmuk 
valley  and  ascends  in  wide  and  steep  curves  to  — 

84  M.  Zeizun  (820  ft.  above  the  level  of  the  sea),  on  the  N.  side 
of  the  Wddi  ez-Zeidi,  here  named  Moyet  Zeizun. 

92^2  M.  El-Muzeirlb,  also  a  station  (2M.  distant)  of  the  French 
llauran  Railway  (p.  157). 

100  M.  Defdt  (1735  ft. ;  bullet),  situated  on  the  S.  slope  of  the 
Wadi  ez-Zeidi  (see  above),  and  also  a  station  of  the  Ilejaz  Railway. 

From  Der'at  to  (761/2  M.)  Damascus  or  to  (208i/2  M.)  El-Ma' dn, 
see  pp.  151-153. 

28.  From.  Haifa  to  Nazareth.   J 


9/—  Bridle-natk  2~°  H-' 


24  M.  Carriage-road;  carriage  (p.  22o)  in  about  6  hrs.-' —  Bridle-path 
from  Acre  to  Nazareth,  see  p.  238. 

The  road  leads  through  theE.  suburb,  passes  the  Jewish  colony, 
and  crosses  a  bridge  over  the  Wddi  Rushmiya.  About  1/2  M.  farther 
on  we  leave  the  gardens  and  traverse  the  plain  of  the  Kishon, running 
parallel  with  the  railway  (p.  235)  and  crossing  the  waters  of  the 
brackish  springs  of  'Ayun  es-Sa'di  by  an  embankment.  Beyond  (3  M.) 


238   Route  28. 


SEMUNIYEH. 


the  village  of  Beled  esh-Sheilch  we  pass  through  a  beautiful  olive-grove 
with  the  Btr  Maryam,  a  spring  of  good  water.  5  M.  the  poor  village 
of  El-Ydjur,  with  extensive  mulberry-plantations ;  7  M.  Wddi  esh- 
Shomariyeh;  8  M.  Tell  'Omar  (on  the  hill  to  the  right  is  El-Jelameh). 
The  road  then  crosses  the  Kishon  (a  road  diverges  here  to  the  right 
to  Jenin,  p.  224),  and  ascends  past  the  village  of  El-Hdrithiyeh,  which 
is  probably  the  ancient  Harosheth  (Judges  iv.  2).  At  this  point  we 
have  a  pretty  retrospect.  The  road  then  ascends  through  a  pleasant 
valley,  with  groves  of  oaks,  to  the  crest  of  the  hill  (about  575  feet ) 
and  descends  into  the  marshy  Wddi  Jeida.  The  unwholesome  water 
of  the  springs  should  under  no  circumstances  be  drunk.  121/.}  M. 
the  village  of  Jeida.  15  M.  Semuniyeh,  to  the  left  on  the  hill,  the 
first  settlement  in  Palestine  of  the  German  Templars,  is  now  almost 
entirely  deserted.  Not  far  from  the  road  is  an  unwholesome  spring. 
Farther  on,  on  a  hill  at  some  distance  to  the  right,  is  Jebdta;  we 
skirt  the  foot  of  the  hills  till  we  have  above  us  the  village  of  Ma'lul, 
The  road  next  ascends  to  (18  M.~)  the  large  village  of  Mujeidil,  which 
possesses  a  Greek  chapel,  a  school  of  the  Russian  Palestine  Society, 
and  a  Protestant  community  with  a  little  church  and  a  school.  The 
road  then  strikes  across  the  threshing-floor  and  leads  up  to  the  ridge 
of  the  mountains.  From  the  point  where  the  road  bends  to  the  E. 
we  enjoy  the  finest  view  on  the  Nazareth  road.  To  the  right,  below 
us,  lies  the  village  of  Jinjdr.  A  little  farther  on  are  traces  of  a 
Roman  road  on  the  right.  We  cross  the  undulating  plateau,  till  we 
reach  (22  M.)  the  pretty  village  of  Ydfd,  the  Japhia  of  Joshua  xi\.  12. 
A  tradition  arose  in  the  middle  ages  that  the  home  of  Zebedee  and 
his  sons  James  and  John  was  situated  here.  Josephus  fortified  the 
place.  Yafa  has  a  Protestant  school,  two  Latin  churches,  and  a  Greek 
church  and  school.  After  a  short  ascent,  Nazareth  suddenly  comes 
into  view.  To  the  left,  on  the  top  of  the  hill,  is  Belloni's  School 
(p.  242);  to  the  right,  on  the  edge  of  a  precipice,  is  a  Greek  chapel 
in  the  form  of  a  tower;  in  front,  in  the  midst  of  a  grove  of  cypresses. 
is  the  Latin  chapel  of  Maria  del  Trernore,  so-named  from  a  legend 
of  the  12th  cent,  according  to  which  the  Virgin  was  standing  here 
when  the  Jews  of  Nazareth  (p.  241)  wanted  to  cast  Jesus  down  head- 
long from  the  top  of  the  hill  (Luke  iv.  28,  29).  —  Nazareth,  see  p.  241. 

From  Acre  to  Nazareth. 

The  bridle-path  (6'/2  hrs.)  traverses  the  plain  towards  the  S.K.,  leaving 
the  Safed  road  (p.  230)  to  the  left  and  the  Haifa  road  (p.  228)  to  the  right. 
It  crosses  (13/4  hr.)  the  Nahr  Ncfmein  (p.  228),  leaving  the  Tell  el-Kurddni 
to  the  right,  and  reaches  (2  hrs.)  — 

Shefa  'Amr,  a  village  with  2700  inhab.  of  all  confessions,  a  Latin 
nunnery,  &nd  a»  English  Protestant,  school  and  chapel.  According  to  the 
Arabian  geographer  Yakut,  SaladirTs  camp  was  situated  here  whilst  he 
harassed  the  Franks  who  were  besieging  Acre.  The  most  interesting  build- 
ing is  the  ancient  Castle,  once  a  spacious  stronghold  with  thick  walls, 
said  to  have  been  built  by  a  certain 'Amr  (or  by  Zahir  el-'Omar,  p.  230). 
The  ancient  entrance  was  on  the  E.  side,  the  present  entrance  is  on  the 
S.  side ;   the  N.  front  is  the  best  preserved  part.    About  l/t  hr.  to  the  S. 


ZKirix. 


29.  Route.    239 


of  the  village,  on  a  hill  whose  slopes  contain  many  cisterns  and  caverns, 
is  situated  El-Burj  ('tower1),  another  medieval  ruined  castle  with  thick 
walls.  The  top  commands  a  lino  view.  To  the  S.  of  Shefa'Amr  are  beautiful 
rock-tombs  with  ornaments,  garlands,  and  figures  of  lions  in  Byzantine  style. 

From  Shefa  rAmr  we  continue  to  follow  the  top  of  the  hill  towards  the 
E.,  then  O/4  hr.)  descend  into  a  small  valley,  and  O/4  hr.)  avoid  a  path  to 
the  right.  To  the  left,  at  (V2  hr.)  the  Bir  el  Beddiciyeh,  wc  obtain  a  fine  view 
of  the  fertile  plain  called  Sahel  el-Battdf  (basalt  formation),  which  answers 
to  the  Plain  0/  Zebulon.  The  Greeks  arid  Romans  called  it  Asochis.  Wo  now 
enter  a  small  valley  to  the  right.  After  3/i  hr.  we  turn  to  the  left  and  in  10 
min.  reach  the  hill  of  — 

Saffuriyeh.  The  village,  which  lies  on  the  S.W.  side  of  the  hill, 
corresponds  with  the  Sepphoris  of  Josephus,  the  Sippori  of  the  rabbis,  and 
the  Diocaesarea  of  the  Romans.  It  was  the  seat  of  one  of  the  live  synedria 
into  which  Gabinius  divided  this  region.  Herod  the  Great  took  it  by  storm, 
and  alter  his  death  it  was  destroyed  by  Varus.  Subsequently,  however, 
it  was  splendidly  rebuilt  by  Herod  Antipas  and  became  the  capital  and 
largest  town  in  Galilee.  About  the  year  A.  D.  ISO  the  Great  Sanhedrim 
was  transferred  hither  by  the  rabbi  Juda  Nasi,  but  .Sepphoris  was  de- 
stroyed in  839,  as  the  numerous  Jews  who  resided  here  had  revolted  against 
the  Romans. 

To  the  N.  of  the  village,  beside  a  modern  Franciscan  chapel,  are  the 
ruins  of  the  Crusader?  Church,  on  the  traditional  site  of  the  dwelling  of 
the  parents  of  the  Virgin  (p.  48).  The  principal  apse  and  that  of  the  N. 
aisle  are  preserved.  As  early  as  the  end  of  the  6th  cent,  a  chapel  stood 
on  the  spot  where  the  Virgin  is  said  to  have  been  hailed  by  the  angel.  — 
The  Cattle,  which  also  dates  from  the  Crusaders'  time,  has  a  round-arched 
portal  adorned  with  rosettes.  The  walls  are  of  great  thickness.  In  the 
interior  a  damaged  stair  ascends  to  a  chamber  with  pointed  vaulting  and 
small  windows.  The  top  commands  a  charming  view  of  the  green  environs. 
Large  ancient  reservoirs  and  a  conduit  exist  in  the  neighbourhood  of 
Satliiriyeh. 

The  road  to  Nazareth  leads  to  the  S.  and  0/4  hr.)  enters  a  small 
valley.  To  the  left  we  observe  (i/a  hr.)  the  village  of  Er-Reineh,  and  by 
the  Welt  Nebi  Sain  we  reach  the  height.  In  20  min.  more  we  are  at 
Nazareth  (p.  241). 


29.  From  Jenin  to  Nazareth  via  Zer  in  and  Sulem. 

A  carriage-road  is  under  construction  from  Jenin  to  El-Fuleh  (railway- 
station,  see  p.  235)  and  thence  to  Nazareth  (ca.  G  hrs.).  The  route  described 
below,  via  Sdlem  and  A'am,  is  slightly  longer  (7  hrs.),  but  more  interesting. 

On  quitting  Jenin  (p.  223),  we  leave  the  mosque  to  the  left  and 
ride  towards  the  spurs  of  the  Jebel  Fuku'a  (1700  ft.),  running  from 
E.S.E.  to  W.N.W.,  with  a  precipitous  face  towards  the  plain  of 
Jezreel,  and  answering  to  the  ancient  Gilboa  Mountains.  It  now 
presents  a  bare  appearance,  except  towards  the  S.,  hut  was  once 
wooded.  On  the  chain  of  hills  to  the  right  are  the  villages  of  Jclbon 
(preserving  the  name  of  Gilboa)  and  Fuk&'a,  in  front  of  which  lies 
Beit  Kdd.  To  the  AV.,  at  the  foot  of  the  hills,  are  the  villages  of 
El-Ydmon  and  Silt  (p.  223).  About  50  min.  from  Jenin  'Ardneh  is 
seen,  1/4  hr.  to  the  right,  and  'Arraboneh  farther  up.  To  the  left 
(10  min.)  is  El-Jelemeh,  beyond  which  rises  the  hill  of  Mukeibeleh. 

On  a  hill  to  the  right,  after  8/4  hr.,  is  seen  the  Nebi  Alezar,  a 
Muslim  place  of  pilgrimage.    We  next  reach  (25  min.)  — 

Zerin,  situated  on  a  N.W.  spur  of  the  Gilboa  mountains.  Zer'in 
is  the  ancient  Jezreel,  a  town  of  Issachar. 


fmf4     ^H  $&£ 


240 


itouie  2(?. 


SULEM. 


Close  by  was  the  scene  (if  the  great  battle  fought  by  Saul  against  the 
I'hilistines  (1  Sam.  xxix.  1).  Saul  himself  fell  here,  whence  David  in 
his  lament  says  'Ye  mountains  of  Gilboa,  let  there  be  no  dew,  neither 
let  there  lie  rain  upon  you'  (2  Sam.  i.  21).  After  Saul's  death  Jezreel 
remained  for  a  time  in  possession  of  his  son  Ishbosheth  (2  Sam.  ii.  8,  9). 
It  was  afterwards  the  residence  of  King  Ahab  and  Jezebel  (1  Kings  xviii. 
45  et  seq.;  1  Kings  xxi.;  2  Kings  ix).  Tn  the,  book  of  Judith  Jezreel  is 
called  Esdraelon  or  E$drelom.  In  the  time  of  the  Crusaders  it  is  men- 
tioned as  Pctrvum  Gerinum. 

We  now  stand  on  the  watershed;  the  hill,  partly  artificial, 
gradually  slopes  down  on  almost  every  side.  There  are  old  wine- 
presses on  the  E.  and  S.E.  slopes.  The  mediaeval  tower  affords  a 
good  view  of  the  valley  as  far  as  Beisan  (p.  235),  of  the  mountains 
to  the  E.  of  Jordan,  and  of  the  plain  of  Jezreel  as  far  as  Mt.  Carmel. 
To  the  N.,  through  an  opening  in  the  hills,  is  seen  Nazareth. 

Beyond  Zer'in  our  route  leads  to  theN.,  across  the  bottom  of  the 
valley,  to  the  heights  of  the  Nebi  Dahi,  which  derives  its  name  from 
a  makam  or  sanctuary  and  a  village  situated  near  the  top  (1690  ft.). 
It  is  also  known  as  Little  Hermon,  a  name  due  to  St.  Jerome's  mistaken 
reference  to  Ps.  lxxxix.12.  The  hill  Moreh  (Judges  vii.  1)  is  also  to 
be  looked  for  in  this  vicinity.  Our  route  passes  (J/4  hr.)  the  cistern 
Bir  es-Siceid,  and  (i/4  hr.)  crosses  a  water-course.  A  path  diverging 
here  to  the  left  also  leads  to  Nazareth.  Our  road,  which  leads  more 
to  the  N.E.,  next  reaches  the  small  village  of  Sulem,  situated  on 
the  S.W.  slope  of  the  Nebi  Dahi. 

Sulem  is  the  ancient  Sunem  or  Shunem,  a  town  of  the  tribe  of 
Issachar.  The  form  Sulem  is  found  in  the  word  Shulamite  (Song  of 
Sol.  vi.  13).  Here,  too,  probably  stood  the  house  of  the  Shunammite 
woman  (2  Kings  iv.  8).    The  view  from  the  summit  is  extensive. 

The  road  to  (II/3  hr.)  Nazareth  skirts  the  W.  slope  of  the  hills 
until  it  reaches  an  arm  of  the  great  plain.  We  obtain  ('/2  hr.)  a 
view  of  Mt.  Tabor  to  the  N.E.,  and  cross  the  great  caravan  route 
from  Egypt  to  Damascus.  Several  water-courses  are  crossed  in  the 
plain.  On  the  right  (20  min.)  lies  Iksdl  ( Chesulloth,  Joshua  xix.  18, 
on  the  frontiers  of  Zebulon  and  Issachar).  There  are  numerous 
ancient  tombs  here.  On  the  N.  side  the  rocks  descend  precipitously; 
and  it  is  here  that  tradition  has  since  the  12th  cent,  localized  the 
'Saltus  Domini',  where  the  Nazarenes  attempted  to  cast  Christ  down 
headlong  (p.  238).  To  the  E.  of  this  hill  is  the  mouth  of  a  preci- 
pitous wadi,  which,  however,  we  do  not  ascend.  We  turn  more  to 
the  left,  following  the  slope  of  the  hill,  and  then  mount  (10  min.)  by 
a  steep  path.  This  leads  to  (^4  hr.)  a  small  valley  which  we  follow 
towards  the  N.,  past  a  spring  called  Bir  Abu  Teise/i,  to  (10  min.) 
Ydfd,  a  village  on  the  road  from  Haifa  to  Nazareth  (p.  238). 

The  village  of  A'aiu  may  be  visited  by  making  a  slight  digression 
(40  min.)  from  Sulem.  We  follow  at  first  the  direct  road  to  Nazareth 
above  described,  and  then,  after  35  min.,  diverge  from  it  to  the  left. 
The  road  skirts  the  base  of  the  hill  and  soon  reaches  (1/2  hr.)  Nam,  a  small 
village  famed  as  the  scene  of  the  raising  of  the  widow's  son  (Luke  vii. 
11-15).  The  village  consists  of  wretched  clay  huts.  Near  it  are  rock- 
tombs  and  a  Franciscan  chapel.    Farther  on  we  leave  O/2  hr.)  Iksdl  on  the 


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30.  Route.   241 


right.  ;i ml  soon  reach  (25  min.)  the  liill  from  which  his  enemies  attempted 
to  throw  the  Saviour  (p.  240). 

The  digression  may  be  prolonged  from  Nain  to  (1  hr.)  Endur,  the  road 
to  which  also  skirts  the  foot  of  the  hill.  The  small  and  dirty  village 
contains  no  antiquities  except  a  feu'  caverns.  This  was  the  ancient  Endor, 
a  town  of  Manasseh,  where  the  shade  of  Samuel  was  raised  by  the  witch 
and  consulted  by  Saul  on  the  eve  of  the  disastrous  battle  of  Oilboa  (I  Sam. 
xxviii.  7-20).  In  the  time  of  Eusebius  Endor  was  still  a  large  village. 
—  In  returning  from  Endur  we  cross  the  valley  again,  this  time  towards 
the  N.W. ;  and  after  l'/g  hr.  we  reach  the  Nain  road  near  Iksal. 


30.  Nazareth. 

Accommodation.     Hotel  Gekmania  (landlord,  Heselschwert),   at   the  S.  , 

entrance  to  the  town,   plain   but   good  and  clean,  pension  (without  wine)  7c7  P-C" 
8-10  fr. ;    Hospice    (Casa   Nuova)   of   the   Franciscan    monastery,    similar  ^       I 
charges.  —  The  best  camping-ground  is  among  the  orchards  to  the  N.  or 
on  the  threshing-floor. 

Horses:   Khalil  Sem'dn  and  Sliakdtlt  Doleri  are  recommended  as  Mukaris. 

Physicians.  Dr.  Scrimgeour  (English);  Dr.  Vartan,  who  has  studied 
in  England;  Dr.  0.  Mayr,  a  German.  —  Scottish  Protestant  Hospital  (Dr. 
Scrimgeour);  Atistro- German  Hospital  of  the  Order  of  Fate  bene  t'ratelli 
(Brothers  of  Mercy  of  St.  John  of  God);  Hospital  of  the  Sisters  of  St.  Vin- 
cent de  Paul. 

Turkish  Post  Office;  international  Telegraph. 

Agency  of  the  German  Bank  of  Palestine. 

History.  Nazareth,  where  the  Saviour  spent  his  early  youth  and  after- 
wards taught  in  the  synagogue,  is  not  mentioned  in  the  Old  Testament  or  by 
Josephus.  In  the  time  of  Our  Lord  it  was  a  small  and  unimportant  town 
(John  i.  46).  The  name  of  Nazarene  was  applied  as  an  epithet  of  deri- 
sion, first  to  Christ  himself,  and  then  to  his  disciples  (Matth.  ii.  23; 
Acts  xxiv.  5);  the  Oriental  Christians  call  themselves  nasdra  (sing,  nus- 
rdni).  The  name  of  the  place  is  also  preserved  in  the  modern  name  of 
En-Ndsira.  Down  to  the  time  of  Constantine  Samaritan  Jews  (p.  218)  only 
occupied  the  village.  About  the  year  600  a  large  basilica  stood  here.  In 
consequence  of  the  Muslim  conquest  Nazareth  again  dwindled  down  to  a 
mere  village.  In  970  it  was  taken  by  the  Greek  emperor  Zimisces.  The 
Crusaders  afterwards  erected  churches  here  and  transferred  hither  the 
bishopric  of  Scythopolis  (p.  235).  In  1220  the  Emperor  Frederick  II.  rebuilt 
the  place,  and  in  1250  it  was  visited  by  Louis  IX.  of  France.  When  the 
Franks  were  finally  driven  out  of  Palestine  Nazareth  lost  much  of  its 
importance.  After  the  conquest  of  Palestine  by  the  Turks  in  1517  the 
Christians  were  compelled  to  leave  the  place.  At  length,  in  1620,  the 
Franciscans,  aided  by  Fakhreddin  (p.  278),  established  themselves  at 
Nazareth.  Under  the  Arab  Sheikh  Ziihir  el-'Omar  (p.  230)  the  place  re- 
covered a  share  of  its  former  prosperity. 

Nazareth,  Arab.  En-Ndnra,  the  capital  of  a  district  (Kada)  in 
the  Mutesarriflik  of  Acre,  is  situated  in  a  basin  on  the  S.  slope  of 
the  Jebel  es-Stkh  (p.  243),  perhaps  a  little  lower  than  the  earlier 
town.  The  appearance  of  the  little  town,  especially  in  spring, 
when  its  dazzling  white  walls  are  embosomed  in  a  green  framework 
of  cactus-hedges,  fig-trees,  and  olive-trees,  is  very  pleasing.  The 
population  amounts  to  about  11,000,  viz.  4000Muslims,  4000  Ortho- 
dox Greeks,  1000  United  Greeks,  1500  Latins,  200  Maronites,  and 
250  Protestants.  Most  of  the  inhabitants  are  engaged  in  farming 
and  gardening,  and  some  of  them  in  handicrafts,  and  in  the  cotton 
and  grain  trade.  The  inhabitants  are  noted  for  their  turbulent  dis- 
position.   Many  pretty  female  figures  are  to  be  seen.    The  district  is 


mm  H  ■  mmm%^d;r-w 


242 


7?<™<e  3W. 


NAZARETH,      ./lnnimcjotton  Church. 


comparatively  rich,  and  the  Christian  farmers  have  retained  many 
peculiarities  of  costume,  which  are  best  observed  at  weddings.  On 
festivals  the  women  wear  gay,  embroidered  jackets,  and  have  their 
foreheads  and  breasts  laden  with  coins,  while  the  riding-camel  which 
forms  an  indispensable  feature  in  such  a  procession  is  smartly  capa- 
risoned with  shawls  and  strings  of  coins. 

The  various  confessions  have  their  own  quarters.  On  the  S.  side 
is  the  Latin  Hdret  el-Latin,  on  the  N.  the  Greek  Hdret  cr-ltum, 
and  in  the  centre  the  Mohammedan  Hdret  cl-lsldm,  with  a  mosque 
and  new  government-buildings  (Serai).  The  other  quarters  contain 
a  mixed  population.  —  The  Christians  are  under  the  government 
of  special  heads.  The  Orthodox  Greeks  have  a  bishop  and  a  church 
dedicated  to  the  Angel  Gabriel,  connected  with  which  are  a  school 
and  convent.  They  also  possess  a  Russian  boys'  and  girls'  school,  a 
Russian  teachers'  college,  and  a  Russian  hospice,  in  a  large  new 
building.  The  United  Greeks  have  a  new  church.  The  Latins  have  ? 
Franciscan  monastery  with  a  church  and  school,  a  new  hospice,  a 
school  for  Muslim  boys,  an  orphanage  and  school  of  the  Dames  de 
Nazareth,  a  nunnery  of  the  Clarisses,  a  new  Sisters'  Home,  hospital, 
and  school  of  the  Sisters  of  St.  Joseph,  a  Sisters'  Home  and  hospital  of 
the  Soeurs  de  Charite",  a  school  of  the  Frcres  des  Ecoles  Chre'tiennes, 
and  Belloni's  boys'  school.  The  Maronitts  have  erected  a  church. 
The  Protestants  have  a  hospital  of  the  Edinburgh  Medical  Mission 
(mentioned  at  p.  '241),  and  a  church,  mission-school,  and  bible-depot 
of  the  Church  Missionary  Society.  The  English  Female  Education 
Society  has  also  erected  a  handsome  institution  for  orphan  girls  on 
the  hill  (p.  244). 

The  Latin  Monastery  (see  the  Plan)  is  the  best  starting-point 
for  a  walk  through  Nazareth.  The  Church  of  the  Annunciation 
(Ecclesia  AnnunciationisJ,  situated  within  the  monastery,  was  in  its 
present  form  completed  in  the  year  1730.  It  is  23  yds.  long,  16  yds. 
wide,  and  has  a  nave  and  two  aisles.  The  vaulting  of  the  nave  rests 
on  four  large  arches,  borne  by  four  massive  pillars.  On  each  side 
are  two  altars.  The  high-altar  is  dedicated  to  the  Angel  Gabriel. 
The  church  contains  several  paintings,  including  an  Annunciation 
and  a  Mater  Dolorosa,  attributed  to  Tcrallio,  a  Spanish  painter. 
The  Crypt  is  below  the  high-altar.  A  handsome  flight  of  marble 
steps  (PI.  a)  descends  to  a  vestibule  called  the  Angel's  Chapel; 
on  the  right  (E.)  is  the  altar  of  St.  Joachim  (PI.  b),  on  the  left 
that  of  the  Angel  Gabriel  (PI.  c).  Between  the  two  altars  is  the 
entrance  to  the  Chapel  of  the  Annunciation,  which  contains  the 
Altar  of  the  Annunciation  (PI.  f ;  inscribed  'Ilic  verbum  caro  factum 
est',  here  the  Word  was  made  flesh),  the  round  upright  Column 
of  Gabriel  (PI.  d),  marking  the  place  where  the  angel  stood,  and 
the  Column  of  Mary  (PI.  e),  a  fragment  of  a  red  granite  column 
depending  from  the  ceiling,  and  said  to  be  miraculously  supported, 
above  the  spot  where  the  Virgin  received  the  angel's  message.   This 


Workshop  of  Joseph.       NAZARETH. 


30.  Route.  243 


\ 


fragment,  which  was  formerly  revered  even  by  the  Muslims,  has 
been  very  variously  described  by  pilgrims.  It  probably  belonged 
originally  to  an  older  building.  On  the 
rock  here,  which  is  now  richly  overlaid 
with  marble,  is  said  to  have  stood  the 
House  of  the  Virgin,  which,  according 
to  a  tradition  of  the  15th  cent.,  was 
miraculously  transported  in  1291  to 
Loretto  (Loreto),  near  Ancona,  in 
order  to  prevent  its  desecration  by 
the  Muslims.  Adjoining  the  Chapel 
of  the  Annunciation  is  a  second  dark 
chamber,  called  the  Chapel  of  St.  Jo- 
seph, which  contains  the  'Altar  of  the 
Flight  into  Egypt",  with  the  inscrip- 
tion: 'Hie  erat  subditus  illis'  (here 
he  became  subject  to  them ;  PI.  g).  — 
From  this  chamber  a  staircase  (PI.  h) 
leads  into  the  monastery.  On  our  way 
out  by  this  egress  we  may  examine  an 
old  cistern  called  the  Kitchen  of  the 
Virgin,  the  mouth  of  which  is  said  to 
be  the  chimney.  —  At  the  monastery 
we  obtain  the  keys  of  the  Workshop  of  "  %^uj^3^i^-j*.±=u? 
Joseph  and  the  Church  of  the  Mensa 
Christi. 

•  To  the  N.E.  of  the  monastery  is  the  Workshop  of  Joseph,  situated 
in  a  small  enclosed  court.  The  chapel  was  built  in  1858.  The  tradi- 
tion dates  from  the  beginning  of  the  17th  century.  On  the  open  space 
immediately  adjoining  are  the  foundations  of  a  church  with  three 
apses,  dating  from  the  time  of  the  Crusaders.  —  The  history  of  the 
Synagogue,  in  which  Christ  is  said  to  have  preached  (Luke  rv.  16  et 
seq.)is  traceable  as  far  back  as  theyear570.  The  building  experienced 
many  vicissitudes.  In  the  13th  cent,  it  was  converted  into  a  church, 
and  it  has  had  different  situations  at  different  periods.  At  the  present 
day  the  'Synagogue'  is  in  possession  of  the  United  Greeks.  —  Before 
we  reach  the  synagogue  a  path  on  the  left  leads  to  the  Protestant 
Church  and  parsonage;  from  the  open  space  in  front  of  it  we  gain  a 
good  view  of  the  town.  —  "We  now  cross  the  market  and  proceed  to 
the  Kenlset  el-Balcita  or  Mensa  Christi  (Table  of  Christ),  on  the 
W.  side  of  the  town ;  the  present  chapel  was  erected  in  1861  and 
belongs  to  the  Latins.  The  table  is  a  block  of  hard  chalk,  Hl/2  ft. 
long  and  9J/2  ft-  broad,  on  which  Christ  is  said  to  have  dined  with 
his  disciples  both  before  and  after  the  Resurrection.  The  tradition 
is  not  traceable  farther  back  than  the  17th  century. 

The  view  from  the  Jebel  es-Sikh  (1600  ft.),  a  hill  to  the  N.W. 
of  Nazareth,  amply  repays  the  ascent.     The  roof  of  the  English 
Bakdekkr's  Palestine  and  Syria.   4th  Edit.  15  16 


244   Route  30. 


NAZARETH. 


Mary's  Well. 


Protestant  Girls'  Orphanage,  which  stands  on  this  height,  commands 
a  fine  survey  of  the  valley  of  Nazareth.  Over  the  lower  mountains 
to  the  E.  peeps  the  green  and  cultivated  Mt.  Tabor,  to  the  S.  of 
whioh  are  the  Nebi  Dahi,  Endur,  Nain,  Zer'in,  and  a  great  part  of 
the  plain  of  Esdraelon  fas  far  as  Jenin).  To  the  W.  Mt.  Carmel 
projects  into  the  sea.  To  the  N.  stretches  the  beautiful  plain  of  El- 
Battof,  at  the  S.  end  of  which  rises  the  ruin  of  Saffuriyeh  (p.  239); 
to  the  N.  also,  farther  distant,  is  seen  Safed  (p.  254),  on  an  eminence 
beyond  which  rises  Mt.  Hermon.  To  the  E.,  beyond  the  basin  of 
Tiberias,  are  the  distant  blue  hills  of  Jolan.  —  Not  far  from  the 
orphanage  stands  the  Weli  Nebi  Sa'ln  (or  Well  Sim'an). 

Descending  to  the  E.,  we  may  visit  Mary's  Well  ('Ain  Miryam), 
situated  near  the  Church  of  Gabriel,  or  the  Church  of  the  Annuncia- 
tion of  the  Orthodox  Greeks.  This  church  was  built  about  the  end 
of  the  18th  cent,  and  is  half  under  ground.  The  spring  is  situated 
to  the  N.  of  the  church,  and  is  conducted  past  the  altar  on  the  left 
side.  There  is  an  opening  here  for  drawing  water,  and  the  Greek 
pilgrims  use  the  sacred  stream  for  bathing  their  eyes  and  heads. 
Through  this  conduit  the  water  runs  to  'Mary's  Well',  where  women 
are  constantly  to  be  seen  drawing  water  in  pitchers  of  graceful  form. 
The  spring  is  also  known  as  Jesus'  Spring  and  Gabriel's  Spring,  and 
a  number  of  different  traditions  are  connected  with  it.  As  this  is 
the  only  spring  which  the  town  possesses,  it  is  all  but  certain  that 
the  Child  Jesus  and  his  mother  were  once  among  its  regular  frequent- 
ers. The  motley  throng  collected  around  the  spring,  especially  to- 
wards evening,  presents  a  very  picturesque  appearance. 

I , ,      fl-M',    f~*Y~  2-^X-O  • 

31.  From  Nazareth  to  Tiberias. 

a.  Via  Mount  Tabor. 

Tabor,  2l/a  h"- ;  Tiberias,  4'/*  hrs.  Luggage  may  be  sent  on  to  Tiberias 
by  the  direct  route.  —  Accommodation  on  Tabor,  in  the  Greek  or  Latin 
monastery.  The  latter  has  the  finer  view.  Travellers  intending  to  stay 
for  the  night  should  bring  letters  of  recommendation  from  the  guardian 
of  the  Franciscan  monastery  in  Nazareth. 

Leaving  Mary's  Well  (see  above),  we  first  ride  along  the  carriage 
road  to  Tiberias,  but  leave  it  at  the  end  of  the  town,  at  the  point 
where  it  turns  to  the  left,  and  go  straight  on  up  the  hill  past  the 
Austrian  hospital  (p.  241).  After  3/4  hr.  we  descend  to  the  N.E.  into 
a  valley,  the  slopes  of  which  are  overgrown  with  oak-bushes,  and 
(20  min.)  enter  a  valley  in  front  of  Mt.  Tabor;  in  20  min.  more  we 
reach  the  base  of  the  hill.  The  ascent  begins  by  a  narrow  path.  To 
the  right  (l/4  hr.)  in  the  valley  below  we  see  Dabilriyeh  (the  ancient 
Daberath,  on  the  frontier  of  Zebulon  and  Issachar,  Josh.  xix.  12). 
It  contains  the  ruins  of  a  church.  The  path  winds  gradually  up- 
wards in  zigzags.  On  the  (60  min.)  top  of  the  plateau  it  divides. 
Turning  to  the  left,  we  pass  an  Arabic  inscription  of  the  period  of 


MOUNT  TABOR. 


31.  Route.    245 


Saladin  and  the  so-called  Grotto  of  Melchkedek  and  reach  the  Greek 
Monastery  on  the  N. ;  turning  to  the  right,  we  pass  under  a  pointed 
archway  (restored)  of  the  mediaeval  Arabian  period,  now  called  Bab 
el-Hawd,  and  enter  the  precincts  of  the  Latin  Monastery. 

Mount  Tabor,  Arab.  Jebel  et-T6r  (1846  ft.),  has,  when  seen 
from  the  S.W.,  the  form  of  a  dome,  but  from  the  W.N.W.  that  of 
a  truncated  cone.  The  slopes  of  the  hill  are  wooded.  The  soil  is 
fertile,  yielding  luxuriant  pasture.  Oaks  (Quercus  ilex  and  aegilops) 
and  butm  (Pistacia  terebinthus)  formerly  covered  the  summit,  but 
most  of  them  have  been  felled  by  the  peasants.  The  monks,  however, 
are  again  endeavouring  to  propagate  them.  Partridges,  hares,  foxes, 
and  various  other  kinds  of  game  abound. 

Mt.  Tabor  was  situated  on  the  frontier  of  Issachar  and  Zebulon.  In 
the  Psalms,  Tabor  and  Hermon  are  extolled  together  (lxxxix.  12).  The 
hill  was  afterwards  called  Itabyrion  or  Atabyrion.  In  B.  C.  218  Antiochus 
ihe  Great  found  a  town  of  the  same  name  on  the  top  of  the  hill.  Josephus 
afterwards  caused  the  place  to  be  fortified.  Origen  and  St.  Jerome  speak 
of  Mt.  Tabor  as  the  scene  of  the  Transfiguration  (Mark  ix.  2-10),  but  this  can 
hardly  have  been  the  case,  as  the  top  was  covered  with  houses  in  the  time 
of  Christ.  The  legend,  however,  attached  itself  to  this,  the  most  conspicuous 
mountain  in  Galilee ,  and  so  early  as  the  end  of  the  6th  cent,  three 
churches  had  been  erected  here  in  memory  of  the  three  tabernacles  which 
St.  Peter  proposed  to  make.  —  The  Crusaders  also  erected  a  church 
and  a  monastery  on  Mt.  Tabor.  In  1212  Mt.  Tabor  was  fortified  by  Melik 
el-rAdil  (p.  lxxxiv),  the  brother  and  successor  of  Saladin.  Five  years  later  this 
fortress  was  unsuccessfully  besieged  by  the  Christians.  It  was  afterwards 
dismantled  by  the  Muslims  themselves,  and  the  church  was  destroyed. 

The  Ruins  on  Mt.  Tabor  belong  to  several  different  periods.  The 
substructions  of  the  wall  surrounding  the  summit,  and  enclosing  a 
plateau  of  about  4  sq.  M.  in  area,  consist  of  large  blocks,  some  of 
which  are  drafted,  and  are  probably  of  the  Roman  period.  The 
castle,  which  occupied  the  highest  part  of  the  plateau,  dates  from  the 
middle  ages  and  is  now  a  mere  heap  of  stones.  Within  the  Latin 
monastery  (see  above)  are  still  to  be  seen  the  ruins  of  a  Crusaders' 
Church  of  the  12th  cent.,  consisting  of  a  nave  and  aisles  and  three 
chapels  in  memory  of  the  three  tabernacles  which  St.  Peter  wished 
to  build.  There  is  also  a  large  subterranean  crypt.  The  Greek 
Church  also  stands  on  the  site  of  a  very  ancient  church  of  the  4th 
or  5th  century,  of  which  the  two  apses  and  a  portion  of  the  mosaic 
pavement  of  black  and  white  stone  have  been  carefully  preserved. 
The  Greeks  and  Latins  differ  as  to  the  actual  spot  where  the  Trans- 
figuration took  place,  each  claiming  it  to  be  within  their  own  church. 
Excavations  are  being  continued.  To  the  E.  of  the  Latin  monastery 
and  to  the  W.  of  the  Greek  monastery  several  other  ancient  buildings 
have  been  discovered. 

The  *Vikw  from  Mt.  Tabor  is  very  extensive.  To  the  E.  the 
N.  end  of  the  Lake  of  Tiberias  is  visible,  and  in  the  extreme 
distance  the  blue  chain  of  the  mountains  of  the  Hauran.  To  the  S. 
of  the  Lake  of  Tiberias  is  the  deep  gap  of  the  Yarmuk  valley  (p.  236), 
then  the  Jebel  'Ajlfin.     On  the  Nebi  Daht  (p.  240)  lie  Endur, 

15,16* 


^tea&afiaik  ■■■  &***&  *$#■•#  umw  $MM>mtkp>       .- -^ 


^C('  '         !/»vr    tV-«^*i    >uXt.    vi-\      Mc     A - 

246   R&uteSl. 


KAFR  KENNA 


A 


From  Nazareth 


Nain  (p.  240),  and  other  villages.  Towards  the  S.W.  we  survey  the 
battlefield  of  Barak  and  Sisera  (Judges  iv)  as  far  as  Megiddo  and 
Taanakh;  to  the  W.  rises  Mt.  Carmel.  To  the  N.  rise  the  hills  of 
Zebud  and  Jerinak  (p.  255),  near  which  is  the  town  of  Safed  (p.  254). 
Above  all  presides  the  majestic  Herroon.  Below  us,  to  the  N. ,  lie  the 
Khan  et-Tudjar(see  below),  Lubiyeh  (see  below),  and  the  Circassian 
village  of  Kafr  Kama. 

-1  We  descend  on  foot  by  the  path  by  which  we  came  up,  and 
after  40  min.  take  a  path  to  the  right.  On  the  right  (4  min.)  we 
observe  a  cistern  with  vaulting,  beyond  which  we  enter  a  beautiful 
green  valley.  Here  we  cross  two  other  paths,  and  after  25  min.  leave 
the  valley,  continuing  to  follow  the  broad  road.  In  20  min.  we  reach 
Khan  et-Tudjdr,  a  ruinous  khan  of  1487,  with  a  spring.  On  a  height 
to  the  N.W.  of  the  khan  are  the  ruins  of  an  Arab  castle.  Farther 
on,  to  the  left,  are  seen  some  houses  belonging  to  the  Jewish  colony 
Es-Sajara.  In  3/i  hr.  we  come  to  Kafr  Sabt,  a  village  inhabited  by 
Algerian  peasants.  A  fine  view  sifon  opens  out  to  the  right  over  the 
valley  of  the  Jordan  and  the  mountains  beyond.  Straight  in  front 
of  us  we  see  ih&Karn  Hattln  (1035  ft.),  a  rocky  hill  with  two  peaks. 
On  the  plain  near  the  hill,  on  July  3rd-4th,  1187,  Saladin  signally 
defeated  the  Franks ,  thereby  giving  a  death-blow  to  their  power  in 
Palestine.  During  the  latter  part  of  the  Crusaders'  period  the  Latins  gave 
currency  to  a  tradition  that  Karn  Hattin  was  the  Mountain  of  the  Beati- 
tudes, or  scene  of  the  Sermon  on  the  Mount,  and  also  the  place  where 
the  five  thousand  were  fed.  Here  the  Jews  show  the  grave  of  Jethro, 
Exod.  iii-  1  (Nebi  Shu'aib). 

After  40  min.  we  reach  the  carriage-road  near  the  Khan  LUbiyeh. 
Thence  to  Tiberias,  see  p.  247. 


b.  ViS.  Kafr  Kenna. 

16  M.  (5  hrs.  20  min.).  Road  practicable  for  carriages.  Carriages,  etc., 
see  p.  218.     The  scenery  is  uninteresting. 

From  Mary's  Well  (p.  244)  we  ascend  to  the  N.  to  the  (!/4  hr.)  top 
of  the  hill  of  El-Khanuk  (fine  retrospect) ;  below,  in  front,  appears 
Er-Reineh  and,  beyond  it,  El-Meshhed,  with  the  weli  of  Nebi  Yunus 
(Jonah)  on  the  hill  (see  below).  In  20  min.  we  reach  Er-Reineh.  In 
9  min.  more  the  road  passes  a  small  spring,  perhaps  the  'cress  spring' 
near  which  the  Franks  gained  a  victory  over  the  Muslims  in  1187. 
After  10  min.  we  pass,  on  the  left,  the  village  of  El-Meshhed,  the 
ancient  Gath-Hepher,  a  town  in  the  territory  of  Zebulon,  and  the 
birthplace  of  the  prophet  Jonah  (2  Kings  xiv.  25),  whose  tomb  is 
shown  here  (see  above).  Descending,  we  reach  (20  min.)  the  spring 
of  Kafr  Kenna  (with  a  sarcophagus  used  as  a  trough)  and  (5  min.) 
the  village  itself. 

Kafr  Kenna  is,  according  to  ecclesiastical  tradition,  the  Cana  of 
the  Bible  (John  ii.  1-11).  The  village  contains  ca.  800  inhab.,  half 
Muslims,  and  the  remainder  mostly  Greek  Christians  with  150  La- 
tins and  a  few  Protestants.    The  children  run  after  the  traveller 

4  n,^^^jjj^tt^}^U^^^  -<]. 


to  Tiberias. 


TIBERIAS. 


37.  Route.  247 


with  shouts  of  'hajji,  hajji'  (pilgrim),  and  offer  him  water.  The 
Franciscans  have  a  school  for  girls  and  hoys,  the  Greeks  one  for  hoys. 
The  Latin  chapel  occupies  the  site  of  a  church  of  the  Crusaders,  as 
was  recently  discovered  during  its  enlargement,  which  in  its  turn 
had  succeeded  a  still  more  ancient  church.  A  Hehrew  mosaic  in- 
scription (3rd  or  4th  cent.)  in  front  of  the  altar  of  the  latter  names 
a  certain  Joseph  as  its  founder.  This  may  possibly  have  heen  Count 
Joseph  of  Tiberias,  a  converted  Jew,  who  was  created  a  count  by 
Constantine  the  Great,  and  built  several  churches.  Some  still  earlier 
remains  seem  to  have  belonged  to  a  synagogue,  traditionally  said 
to  occupy  the  spot  where  the  water  was  made  wine  (John  ii).  In 
the  Greek  church  stone  jars  are  shown  which  are  said  to  have  been 
used  on  the  occasion  of  the  miracle.  Tradition  also  points  out  the 
house  of  Nathaniel  (John  i.  45). 

From  Kafr  Keuna  the  route  leads  to  theN.E.  through  the  broad 
and  well-cultivated  W&di  Rummaneh,  a  side-valley  of  the  plain  of 
Sahel  el-Battof(j).  239).  After  3/4  hr.  Tur'dn  is  seen  to  the  left. 
In  35  inin.  we  pass  the  ruins  and  water-basin  of  Birket  Meskana 
and  in  20  min.  more  reach  the  foot  of  the  hill  on  which  lies  the 
village  of  Lubiyeh.  In  1799  the  French  under  Junot  fought  heroic- 
ally against  the  superior  forces  of  the  Turks  near  Lubiyeh.  We 
now  cross  a  low  saddle,  whence  a  flue  view  is  obtained  of  the  trough- 
shaped  plain  of  Sahel  el-Ahrnd  and  of  the  mountains  beyond  Jordan. 
The  road  is  here  joined  on  the  right  by  that  from  Tabor(comp.p.244). 
In  about  23  min.  we  reach  the  ruins  of  the  Khan  Lubiyeh.  The 
Karn  Hattin  (p.  246)  becomes  visible  to  the  N.  AVe  ride  along  the 
base  of  the  hill  and  after  50  min.  approach  the  edge  of  the  plateau, 
whence  we  have  our  first  view  of  the  lake.  Safed  (p.  254)  lies  to 
the  N.,  high  up  on  the  monntain,  and  Tiberias  itself  becomes  visible 
in  '/jj  hr.    It  takes  3/4  hr.  more  to  descend  in  windings  to  the  town. 


Tiberias  (Tabariyeh). 

Accommodation.  Hotel  Tiberias  (landlord,  Qrossmann) ,  in  a  pictur- 
esque and  lofty  situation,  pens.,  without  wine,  8-10  fr.  —  Latin  Monaster! 
(Franciscans),  pens.  incl.  wine  10  fr.,  previous  notice  necessary  in  the  sea- 
son. —  The  Greek  Monastery,  at  the  S.  end  of  the  town,  is  perhaps  not 
quite  so  good,  pens.  6-8  fr.,  wine  extra.  —  Tents  had  better  be  pitched  on 
the  bank  of  the  lake,  to  the  S.  of  the  town.  —  Tiberias  is  notorious  through- 
out Syria  for  its  fleas;   the  Arabs  say  the  king  of  the  fleas  resides  here. 

Turkish  Post  Office;  international  Telegraph. 

Physician.  Dr.  Torrance  (Edin.),  physician-in-chief  of  the  Hospital 
of  the  Scottish  Medical  Mission  (p.  249).  —  There  are  several  chemists 
and  two  Jewish  physicians. 

Boats  are  obtained  through  the  hotel  or  the  monastery.  An  exact  bargain 
as  to  voyage  and  price  advisable.  Charges  for  a  boat  and  6-8  travellers: 
to  Tell  Ilhm  (p.  252;  about  3  hrs.),  in  summer  15-20  fr.,  in  winter  25-30  fr. ; 
round  trip  (to  the  mouth  of  the  Jordan  on  the  N.  and  back,  1  day)  30  fr., 
in  bad  weather  40  fr. ;  to  Samakh  (p.  236)  1-2  fr.  e«ch  person. 

Tabariyeh,  the  ancient  Tiberias,  lies  on  the'W.  bank  of  the  Lake 
of  Gennesaret  (p.  249),  on  a  narrow  strip  of  plain  between  the  lake 


:$m  mk  ^^  &$S* 


■H 


248   Route  31. 


TIBERIAS. 


and  the  hills  to  the  W.,  'while  the  original  town  extended  more 
southward?.  Tiberias  has  improved  considerably  of  late  years.  It 
is  the  chief  town  of  a  Kada  of  the  Liwa  of  Acre.  Of  the  f)000  in- 
habitants about  two-thirds  are  Jews  (with  10  synagogues),  ahout 
1400  are  Muslims,  and  200  Christians  (Orthodox  Greeks,  United 
Greeks,  Latins,  and  Protestants).  Many  of  the  Jews  are  immigrants 
from  Poland,  speak  German,  and  live  on  alms  sent  from  Europe. 
They  wear  large  black  hats  and  fur-caps  (even  in  summer). 

Tiberias  was  tlie  capital  of  Galilee  ('district  of  the  heathens'1;  Isaiah 
ix.  1 ;  Matth.  iv.  15),  a  name  originally  applied  to  the  highlands  only  which 
extend  from  the  N.  of  the  Lake  of  Gennesaret  to  the  W.  The  tribes  of 
Asher,  Zebulon,  and  Issachar  dwelt  here,  but  the  land  was  colonized  anew 
after  the  captivity  by  Jews  from  the  South.  The  population,  however,  retained 
its  mixed  character,  and  the  name  of  Galilee  was  extended  to  the  whole 
province  lying  between  the  plain  of  Jezreel  and  the  river  Litani.  The 
U.  part  was  called  Upper  Galilee,  to  the  S.  of  which  was  Lower  Galilee. 
The  country  was  famed  for  its  fertility,  rich  pastures  and  luxuriant  forest- 
trees  being  its  chief  features.  The  tract  situated  to  the  W.  of  the  lake 
was  the  most  beautiful  part  of  the  country.  In  the  Koman  period  Galilee 
formed  a  separate  province  and  was  densely  peopled  (see  p.  lxxix).  The 
Jewish  element  still  continued  predominant,  but  was  more  affected  by 
foreign  influences  than  in  Judwa.  The  language  also  varied  from  that 
spoken  in  Judaea  (Matth.  xxvi.  73).  The  Jews  of  this  district  seem  to  have 
been  less  strict  and  less  acquainted  with  the  law  than  those  of  Judaea,  by 
whom  they  were  consequently  despised.  Their  revolt  against  the  Romans 
in  A.D.  67  proved,  however,  that  their  national  spirit  was  still  strong. 

Galilee  attained  the  height  of  its  prosperity  about  the  time  of  Christ, 
when  Herod  Antipas  (p.  lxxx)  was  the  ruler  of  the  land.  This  prince  founded 
Tiberias  (named  in  honour  of  the  Emp.  Tiberius)  and  made  it  his  capital 
in  the  place  of  Sepphoris  (p.  239).  Tiberias  is  said  by  the  rabbinicai  writers 
to  occupy  the  site  of  a  place  called  Rakkalh,  but  there  is  no  authority  for 
this  statement.  According  to  Josephus  the  building  of  the  city  began 
between  10  and  19  A.D.  and  was  finished  in  22  A.D.  In  the  construction  of 
the  foundations  a  burial-place  was  disturbed.  As,  according  to  the  Jewish 
law,  contact  with  graves  defiled  the  person  for  seven  days,  but  few  Jews 
could  be  persuaded  to  live  in  the  place;  and  Herod  was,  therefore,  obliged 
to  people  it  chiefly  with  foreigners,  adventurers,  and  beggars,  so  that  the 
population  was  of  a  very  mixed  character.  The  town  was,  moreover, 
constructed  in  entire  accordance  with  Grseco-Roinan  taste,  and  even  its 
municipal  constitution  was  Roman.  It  possessed  a  racecourse,  and  a 
palace  adorned  with  figures  of  animals,  probably  resembling  that  of  fArak 
el-Emir  (p.  145).  These  foreign  works  of  art  were  an  abomination  to  the 
Jews,  who  were  for  the  most  part  rigidly  conservative;  and  thus  it  happens 
that  the  new  city  is  only  once  or  twice  mentioned  in  the  New  Testament 
(John  vi.  1,  23;  xxi.  1).  It  is  possible,  too,  that  it  was  never  visited  by 
Christ.  During  the  Jewish  war,  when  Josephus  became  commander-in- 
chief  of  Galilee,  he  fortified  Tiberias.  The  inhabitants,  however,  volun- 
tarily surrendered  to  Vespasian,  and  the  Jews  were  therefore  afterwards 
allowed  to  live  here.  After  the  destruction  of  Jerusalem,  Tiberias  became 
the  chief  seat  of  the  Jewish  nation.  The  Sanhedrim  (or  Sanhedrin)  was 
transferred  from  Sepphoris  (p.  239)  to  Tiberias,  and  the  school  of  the  Talmud 
was  brought  here  from  Yamnia  (p.  123).  Here,  too,  about  A.D.  200,  the 
famous  Jewish  scholar  Rabbi  Jehuda  ha-Nasi  published  the  ancient  tra- 
ditional law  known  as  the  Mishna.  In  the  first  half  of  the  4th  cent,  the 
Palestinian  Gemara  (the  so-called  Jerusalem  Talmud)  came  into  existence 
here ,  and  between  the  6th  and  7th  cent,  the  'Western'  or  'Tiberian1 
pointing  of  the  Hebrew  Bible,  which  is  now  universally  accepted.  It 
was  from  a  rabbi  of  Tiberias  that  St.  Jerome  (p.  106)  learned  Hebrew. 
The  study  of  the  Talmud  still  flourishes  in  the  region.  Christianity  seems 
to  have  made  slow  progress  here,  but  bishops  of  Tiberias  are  mentioned 


LAKE  OF  TIBERIAS. 


31.  Route.   249 


as  early  as  the  5th  century.  In  637  the  Arabs  conquered  the  town  without 
difficulty.  Under  the  Crusaders  the  bishopric  was  re-established,  and 
subordinated  to  the  archbishopric  of  Nazareth.  It  was  an  attack  by  Sala- 
din  on  Tiberias  which  gave  rise  to  the  disastrous  battle  of  Hattin,  on 
the  day  after  which  the  Countess  of  Tripoli  was  obliged  to  surrender  the 
castle  of  Tiberias.  About  the  middle  of  the  18th  century  it  was  again 
fortified  by  Zahir  el-rOmar. 

The  Lake  of  Tiberias,  through  which  the  Jordan  (p.  130)  flows,  S  «*-<—- 
was  anciently  called  Kinneret  or  Kinnerot,  a  name  commonly  derived  f?-"~J/<~ 
from  the  supposed  resemblance  of  the  irregular  oval  form  of  the  I,  ~*  y 
lake  to  a  lute  (kinnor).  In  the  time  of  the  Maccabees  it  was  called 
the  Lake  of  Gennezar,  or  Gennesaret,  from  the  plain  of  that  name 
at  its  N.W.  end.  Its  surface  is  681  ft.  below  that  of  the  Mediter- 
ranean; its  greatest  depth  is  137-157  feet.  The  height  of  the  water, 
however,  varies  with  the  seasons.  The  lake  is  13  M.  long,  its  greatest 
width  nearly  6  M.  The  hills  surrounding  the  blue  lake  are  of  mod- 
erate height,  and  the  scenery,  enlivened  by  a  few  villages,  is  of  a 
smiling  and  peaceful  character  without  pretension  to  grandeur.  The 
bottom  is  for  the  most  part  covered  with  fragments  of  basalt  of 
various  sizes,  and  near  the  bank  with  ancient  building-material.  The 
water  is  drunk  by  all  the  dwellers  on  its  banks;  but  near  the  hot 
springs  (p.  250)  it  has  an  unpleasant  taste.  We  learn  from  the 
Gospels  that  the  lake  was  once  navigated  by  numerous  vessels,  but 
there  are  now  a  few  miserable  fishing-boats  only. 

The  lake  still  contains  many  good  kinds  of  iish.  Several  do  not 
occur  elsewhere  except  in  the  tropics.  Of  particular  interest  are  the 
Chromis  Simo/iis,  the  male  of  which  carries  the  eggs  and  the  young  about 
in  its  mouth,  and  the  Clarias  macr  acanthus,  the  Coracinut  of  Josephus  and 
the  barbilr  of  the  Arabs,  which  emits  a  sound. 

The  banks  of  the  lake  form  a  veritable  paradise  in  spring.  The 
lava  soil  of  the  basaltic  formations  is  very  fertile;  and  the  great 
heat+  consequent  on  the  low  situation  of  the  lake  produces  a  sub- 
tropical vegetation,  although  for  a  short  period  only.  Fever  is  very 
prevalent  after  the  first  rains  of  autumn,  but  otherwise  Tiberias  is 
not  unhealthy. 

On  the  S.  side  the  town  is  unenclosed,  but  on  the  rest  of  the 
land  side  it  is  protected  by  a  massive  wall  and  towers.  Here,  for 
the  first  time,  we  encounter  buildings  of  the  black  basalt  which  is 
the  material  generally  used  beyond  Jordan.  As  we  approach  by 
the  carriage-road  from  Nazareth,  we  first  observe  the  Serai  with 
its  numerous  domes,  to  the  left,  and  the  recently  restored  Mosque 
with  its  handsome  minaret,  to  the  right.  Below  the  Serai,  at  the  N. 
town-gate,  are  the  large  hospital  and  the  physician's  and  pastor's 
dwellings,  belonging  to  the  Mission  Station  of  the  United  Free 
Church  of  Scotland.  —  The  church  and  monastery  (with  school) 
of  the  Orthodox  Greeks  adjoin  the  town-wall  at  the  S.E.  end  of 

+  The  mean  annual  temperature  (74°  Fahr.)  is  ca.  7°  higher  than  that 
of  Jerusalem:  on  about  103  days  it  exceeds  90",  and  on  45  of  these  it  is 
upwards  of  100°. 


^^mm^ms^wm       m  '    ■ 


250   Route  31.  TIBERIAS. 

the  town,  near  the  lake,  and  were  built  in  1869  among  ruins,  said 
to  date  from  the  Crusades.  —  The  small  church  and  parsonage  of 
the  United  Greeks  are  huilt  against  the  town-wall  in  the  S.W.  part 
of  the  town.  —  St.  Peter's  Church  and  the  Franciscan  hospice  and 
monastery  (with  school)  lie  close  to  the  lake  on  the  N.  side  of 
the  town.  The  tradition  that  the  miraculous  draught  of  fishes 
(John  xxi.  6-11)  took  place  here  is  comparatively  modern.  There 
are  two  Synagogues  on  the  hank  of  the  lake.  The  Frank  synagogue, 
huilt  on  a  square  ground-plan,  has  ornamentation  in  the  Arabian 
style.  The  synagogue  of  the  German  Jews  is  a  long  rectangle  with 
ancient  columns  and  round  arches;  there  is  an  ancient  Greek  in- 
scription on  the  exterior.  —  The  extensive  ruins  of  the  Castle  lie 
to  the  N.  Near  it  is  a  mosque  with  a  few  palms.  The  top  of  the 
ruins  commands  a  beautiful  view. 

About  5  min.  to  the  N.  of  the  town ,  below  the  new  road  to 
Nazareth,  is  shown  the  tomb  of  the  famous  Jewish  philosopher  Mai- 
monides  (Rambam,  d.  1204);  near  to  it  are  the  tombs  of  Rabbi  Ami 
and  Rabbi  Jochanan  Ben  Sakai;  ^  hr.  farther  up  the  hill,  the  tomb 
of  the  celebrated  Rabbi  Aklba  (p.  lxxx). 

About  '/-2  hf-  tft  the  S.  of  Tiberias  lie  the  celebrated  Hot  Baths, 
reached  by  a  good  road  (seat  in  a  carriage  '/2  fr.).  On  nur  way  we 
pass  numerous  ruins  of  the  ancient  city,  including  the  remains  of  a 
thick  wall,  fragments  of  buildings  and  of  a  fine  aqueduct  towards 
the  hill  on  the  right,  and  many  broken  columns.  Nearest  the  town 
is  the  new  bath-house,  with  private  baths;  farther  to  the  S.  lies 
another  bath-house,  with  several  dirty  general  rooms  and  also  two 
private  baths.  Still  farther  to  the  S.  is  the  oldest  bath-house  of  all, 
close  to  the  chief  spring.  The  general  bathroom  in  theN.  bath  should 
be  avoided.  The  charge  for  a  private  bath  (which  should  be  cleaned 
and  freshly  filled  for  each  bather)  is  l1^"^  fr.  (in  April  and  May, 
during  the  season,  3-4  fr.).  Bathers  are  recommended  to  douche 
themselves  with  lake-water  after  the  warm  bath,  as  otherwise  the 
strongly  saline  spring-water  is  apt  to  induce  an  uncomfortable  irri- 
tation of  the  skin.  The  water  is  much  extolled  as  a  cure  for  rheu- 
matism and  cutaneous  diseases.  The  principal  spring  has  a  tem- 
perature of  143°  Fahr. ;  other  similar  springs  flow  into  the  lake 
unutilized,  leaving  a  greenish  deposit  on  the  stones.  The  water  has 
a  disagreeable  sulphureous  smell,  and  a  salt,  bitter  taste.  It  con- 
tains sulphur  and  chloride  of  magnesium. 

Beyond  the  baths  is  a  Synagogue  of  the  Sephardim,  and  close 
by  a  school  of  the  Ashkenazim,  with  the  graves  of  the  celebrated 
Talmudist  Rabbi  Metr  and  two  of  his  pupils. 

A  Sail  on  the  Lakk  (see  p.  247)  should  not  be  omitted,  but 
voyagers  should  keep  close  to  the  shore,  on  account  of  the  sudden 
squalls.  An  expedition  to  Et-Ta'Mgha  (p.  252)  and  Tell  Htim 
(p.  252)  is  recommended  to  those  who  do  not  make  the  tour  to 
Safed  (R.  32). 


I 


KAI/AT  EL-HUSN. 


31.  Route.    251 


Excursions  to  the  E.  Bank  of  the  Lake  are  unsafe,  owing  to  the  Be- 
duins,  and  must,  therefore,  either  be  made  by  boat,  or  with  an  escort.  The 
price  of  a  boat  is  20-30  fr.,  according  to  the  length  of  the  excursion. 
Crossing  the  lake  obliquely  from  Tiberias,  we  may  land  near  the  ruin  of  — 

Karat  el-Husn.  Kalfat  el-Husn  is  most  probably  the  ancient  Qamala. 
The  situation 'of  the'town  was  very  secure,  and  Josephus  compares  the 
hill  on  which  it  stood  to  the  back  of  a  camel  (Heb.  'gamaT).  Herod  was 
defeated  here  by  his  father-in-law  Aretas.  Gamala  was  taken  and  destroyed 
by  Vespasian.  It  seems,  however,  to  have  been  still  occupied  at  a  later 
period. 

The  plateau  on  which  the  town  and  castle  stood  is  precipitous  on 
three  sides,  and  is  accessible  from  the  E.  only.  The  walls  ran  round 
the  brink  of  the  plateau.  Caves,  columns,  and  other  interesting  remains 
may  be  seen.  —  About  1/2  ^t.  to  the  S.E.  of  Kal'at  el-Husn  is  SUsiyeh,  the 
ancient  Hippos  of  the  Decapolis. 

From  this  point  we  proceed  to  the  X.  to  Kursi,  lying  on  the  left  bank 
of  the  Wddi  es-Samak.  The  extensive  ruins  are  enclosed  by  a  wall.  An 
attempt  lias  been  made  to  identify  Kursi  with  Oergesa  (Matth.  viii.  28), 
although  Mark  v.  1  and  other  passages  read  Oadara.  In  the  vicinity  there 
are  many  'steep  places'  descending  into  the  lake.  —  We  may  next  proceed 
to  the  plain  of  El-Batiha  (El-Ebteiha),  at  the  X.  end  of  the  lake.  At  the 
X.  end  of  this  plain,  on  the  slope  of  the  hill,  and  3/t  hr.  from  the  lake, 
lie  the  ruins  of  Et-Tell,  the  ancient  Bethsaida  (Luke  ix.  10;  John  i.  44), 
the  birthplace  of  Peter,  John,  and  Philip,  which  was  rebuilt  by  Philip, 
the  son  of  Herod,  in  the  Roman  style,  and  named  Julias  in  honour  of  the 
daughter  of  Augustus  (but  comp.  p.  252).  The  ruins  consist  only  of  a  few 
ancient  fragments,  the  building  material  used  being  basalt.  —  From  this 
point  we  may  skirt  the  W.  bank  of  the  lake  to  Tell  Hdm  (p.  252). 

From  Tiberias  to  Beisdii,  see  p.  220. 


32.  From  Tiberias  to  Tell  Hum  and  Safed, 

6V2  hrs.  To  Khdn  Mint/eh,  2  hrs.  10  min.  5  Tell  Hum,  55  min.  j  Safed, 
3'/i  hrs.  The  start  should  be  made  early,  as  the  ride  along  the  bank  of 
the  lake  is  very  hot.  —  Travellers  who  intend  to  accomplish  the  journey 
from  Tiberias  to  Bdniyds  (p.  259)  in  two  days  had  better  ride  to  a  point 
beyond  Safed  on  the  lirst  day,  else  the  second  day's  ride  will  be  too  ex- 
hausting (R.  33). 

The  road  at  first  runs  30-40  ft.  above  the  level  of  the  water, 
commanding  a  fine  view.  After  35  min.,  the  Wddi  'Ameis  descends 
from  the  left ;  we  perceive  below  us  attractive  gardens  and  several 
springs  ('Ain  el-Bdrideh),  the  water  of  which  is  warm  and  brackish. 
Some  of  the  springs  have  an  enclosure  of  stone,  forcing  the  water 
to  ascend.  On  the  hill  to  the  left  are  several  rock-tombs.  —  The 
miserable  village  of  Mejdel  (25  min.)  is  identical  with  Magdala,  the 
birthplace  of  Mary  Magdalen,  and  perhaps  also  with  Miydal-El  of 
the  tribe  of  Naphthali  (Joshua  xix.  38).  Here,  too,  we  may  perhaps 
place  Taricheae  (comp.  p.  159),  which  played  an  important  part  in 
the  war  with  Rome. 

About  1/2  hr.  to  the  W.  of  Mejdel,  on  the  left  side  of  the  Wadi  el- 
Hamam  (p.  252),  lie  the  ruins  of  the  castle  of  KaFat  Ibn  Ma'dn,  reached 
by  a  stiff'  ascent  of  1  hr.  The  cliffs  here  are  about  1180  ft.  in  height.  The 
castle  consists  of  caverns  in  the  rock,  connected  by  passages  and  protected 
by  walls.  This  inaccessible  fastness  was  once  the  haunt  of  robbers.  Herod 
the  Great  besieged  them  here,  and  only  succeeded  in  reaching  and  destroy- 
ing them  by  letting  down  soldiers  in  cages  by  ropes  to  the  mouths  of  the 
caverns.    The  caverns  were  afterwards  occupied  by  hermits.  —  Opposite, 


252 


«ow<e  32. 


KHAN  MINYEH. 


.From  Tiberias 


on   the  right  side  of  the  Wadi  el  -  Haina.ni,  lies  Irbid,   the  ancient  Arbela, 
with  the  ruins  of  an  old  synagogue  mentioned  in  the  Talmud. 

Near  Mejdel  the  hills  recede  from  the  lake  towards  the  W.,  and 
here  begins  the  plain  of  El-Ghuweir,  the  ancient  Gennesar,  about 
3  M.  long  and  1  M.  wide. 

The  soil  is  extremely  fertile  (comp.  p.  249).  The  banks  of  the  lake 
and  the  brooks  are  fringed  with  oleanders  (difleh)  and  nebk.  The  brooks 
contain  numerous  tortoises  and  crayfish,  and  shells  abound  on  the  shores 
of  the  lake.  The  principal  spring  is  the  'Ain  el-Mudawwara  ('round  spring'), 
which  lies  25  rain,  to  the  N.W.  of  Mejdel.  The  basin,  enclosed  by  a  round 
wall,  and  about  30  yds.  in  diameter,  is  concealed  among  the  bushes.  The 
water,  2  ft.  deep,  is  clear  and  good,  and  bursts  forth  in  considerable 
volume.  From  'Ain  el-Mudawwara  we  return  to  the  bank  of  the  lake  by 
crossing  the  plain  obliquely  (1/2  hr.). 

Leaving  Mejdel,  we  cross  (V4  hr.")  the  Wadi  el-Hamdm,  through 
"which  runs  the  caravan  road  from  Nazareth  to  Damascus.  We  next 
reach  the  (10  min.)  brook  of  the  'Ain  el-Mudawwara  (see  above), 
the  (10  min.)  brook  Er-Rabadlyeh,  and  the  C/4  hr.)  mouth  of  the 
Wadi  el-'Amud.  In  20  min.  more  we  arrive  at  Khkn  Minyeh,  lying 
a  short  distance  from  the  shore  of  the  lake,  the  ruins  of  which, 
dating  from  the  time  of  Saladin,  show  that  it  was  once  a  place 
of  some  importance.  Attempts  have  been  made  to  identify  this 
spot  with  the  Bethsaida  of  the  New  Testament,  but  it  is  doubtful 
whether  there  ever  was  another  village  of  this  name  except  Bethsaida 
Julias  (p.  251). 

From  Khan  Minyeh  the  baggage-horses  may  be  sent  by  the  caravan 
route  (which  is  also  the  ancient  Roman  road)  direct  towards  the  N.  to 
(1  hr.  25  min.)  Khan  Jubb  Yusuf  (p.  253)  and  Safed. 


The  narrow  path  skirts  the  rocky  slope  of  the  hills,  to  the  right 
(E.)  at  some  height  above  the  lake.  The  ruins  of  a  (modern) 
aqueduct,  which  ran  from  'Ain  et-Tdbigha  to  Khan  Minyeh,  serve 
as  a  bridle-path.  On  the  right  we  soon  observe  the  'Ain  et-Ttn,  or 
tig-spring,  below  us  (much  papyrus),  and  beyond  it  (20  min.)  reach 
the  copious  fAin  et-Tabigha  (=  Heptapegon,  'seven  springs'),  which 
was  formerly  supposed  to  be  the  scene  of  the  miracle  of  feeding  the 
live  thousand  (Mark  vi.  30-44).  The  water  is  brackish  and  has  a 
temp,  of  89.6°  Fahr.  On  the  left,  about  2  min.  from  the  road,  is  the 
large  octagonal  enclosure  of  the  spring.  A  little  to  the  S.  of  the 
spring  the  German  Catholic  Palestine  Society  has  established  a  small 
colony  with  a  Hospice  (kind  reception  but  limited  space,  pens.  incl. 
wine  10  fr.),  near  a  few  ruins.  Some  authorities  locate  Bethsaida 
here  (comp.  p.  251  and  above),  which  is  possible;  others  seek  to 
identify  the  spot  with  the  ancient  spring  of  Capernaum  (comp.  below). 

The  path  from  'Ain  et-Tabigha  continues  to  skirt  the  bank,  on 
which  several  springs  and  remains  of  buildings  are  observed,  and 
reaches  (35  min.)  the  ruins  of  — 

Tell  Hum.  —  History.  The  identification  of  Tell  Hum  with  Caper- 
naum  is  as  good  as  certain.  Jewish  authors  mention  a  place  here  called 
Kafar    TankhUm  or  A'akhUm.     Whether  'Tell  Hum'  was  corrupted   from 


to  Safed. 


KHAN  JUBB  YUSUF.  32.  Route.    253 


jTankkum'',  or  whether  the  Arabic  'Tell'  (hill)  was  substituted  for  'Kaphar' 
(village)  and  NakhiSm  shortened  to  Hum,  is  very  questionable.  The  ex- 
tent of  the  ruins  of  Tell  Hum  points  to  an  ancient  place  of  considerable  im- 
portance, as  indeed  the  town,  with  its  custom-house  and  garrison,  must 
have  been. 

The  ruins  aTe  surrounded  by  a  wall  and  belong  to  the  Francis- 
cans, who  own  a  small  Hospice  (no  beds)  and  a  farm  here.  Per- 
mission to  inspect  the  ruins  should  he  brought  from  the  guardian 
at  Tiberias.    Excavations  are  being  made. 

On  the  bank  of  the  lake  lies  a  Church,  built  with  ancient  materials. 
In  the  midst  of  the  mass  of  black  ruins  we  can  trace  the  remains  of  a 
beautiful  ancient  building  of  white  limestone  resembling  marble.  This 
structure,  about  25  yds.  long  and  18  yds.  wide,  was  partly  composed  of 
very  large  blocks  of  stone.  On  the  8.  side  there  were  three  entrances. 
In  the  interior  are  still  seen  the  bases  of  the  columns,  while  beautiful 
fragments  of  Corinthian  capitals  and  richly-ornamented  lintels  lie  scattered 
about.  These,  as  some  think,  must  have  formed  part  of  a  synagogue  (per- 
haps the  one  mentioned  in  Luke  vii.  5  et  seq.),  and  the  ruins  are  certainly 
older  than  some  others  adjacent,  which  perhaps  belonged  to  the  basilica 
that  stood  here  about  the  year  600  on  the  site  of  St.  Peter's  house.  At  the 
!N.  end  of  the  town  are  two  tombs,  one  of  which,  lined  with  limestone, 
is  subterranean,  while  the  other  is  a  square  building,  which  must  have 
been  capable  of  containing  many  bodies.  From  the  ruins  of  the  deeply 
humiliated  city  (JIatth.  xi.  23)  the  eye  gladly  turns  to  the  lake,  bounded 
by  gentle  hills  and  stretching  far  to  the  S. 

"We  follow  the  water-course  from  Tell  Hum  along  a  very  had, 
steep  path.  On  the  left  hank  (1  hr.)  lie  the  ruins  of  Kerazeh,  the 
ancient  Chorazin,  once  apparently  an  important  place  (Matth.  xi. 
21).  The  ruins  lie  partly  in  the  channel  of  the  brook,  and  partly 
on  an  eminence  above  the  valley.  Many  walls  of  houses  are  preserved. 
In  the  centre  are  one  or  two  columns  for  the  support  of  the  roof, 
which  seems  to  have  been  flat.  In  the  middle  of  the  town  are  the 
ruins  of  a  floridly  ornamented  synagogue.  The  rocky  eminence 
commands  a  fine  view  of  the  lake.  To  the  N.  of  the  town  are  the 
remains  of  a  street  running  northwards.  From  Kerazeh  our  route 
leads  to  (1  hr.)  the  ruined  — 

Khan  Jubb  Yfisuf.  —  This  khan  derives  its  name  from  a  tradition 
current  among  old  Arabian  geographers  to  the  effect  that  the  pit  into 
which  Joseph  was  thrown  by  his  brethren  was  situated  here,  and  the 
pit  is  actually  shown.  The  tradition  was  probably  based  on  the  as- 
sumption that  the  neighbouring  Safed  was  identical  with  the  Dothan  of 
Scripture,  but  this  is  erroneous:  comp.  Gen.  xxxvii.  17  (see  p.  223). 

From  Khan  Jdbb  YCsup  to  Baniyas,  direct,  10  hrs.  We  first  proceed 
N.  along  the  direct  caravan  route  from  Acre  to  Damascus.  After  crossing 
the  Wddi  Ndshif  we  turn  to  the  left  (18  min.  from  the  khan)  and  skirt  the 
mountains  of  Safed  on  the  left.  This  tract  is  called  Ard  el-Khuil.  In  H/2  hr. 
we  reach  the"  floor  of  the  upper  Ghor.  To  the  left  on  the  hill  lies  the 
village  of  Ja'dneh.  We  cross  the  Wddi  Fir'im,  and  presently  see  (1/2  hr.) 
El-Mughar  on  the  left.  We  next  reach  (25  min.)  the  village  of  El-Wakkds 
and  (2/4  hr.)  the  brook  Nahr  Ilenddj.  On  the:  slopes  to  the  left  above  "us 
lie  the  ruins  of  KasijUn.  In  1  hr.  more  we  arrive  at  'Ain  Afelldha,  a  beau- 
tiful spring.  The  night  is  best  spent  at  Kebd'a  or  Marts,  villages  on  the 
hill  to  the  left,  from  which  we  obtain  a  view  of  Lake  Huleh. 

Lake  Huleh.  Josephus  (Antiq.  xv.  10,  3)  calls  the  whole  district 
Ulatha,  and   the  lake   Samachimilis.    It  is  hardly  possible  that  it  can  be 


^^m^B 


254   Route  32. 


SAFED. 


From  Tiberiat 


the  Waters  of  Merom  (Josh.  xi.  5,  7).  —  The  Jake  is  a  triangular  basin  of 
the  Jordan  (p.  130),  10-16  ft.  in  depth,  and  lying  about  6  ft.  above  the 
sea-level.  It  abounds  in  pelicans,  wild  duck,  and  other  waterfowl,  but 
swamps  render  it  difficult  or  impossible  of  access  on  the  N.  side,  on  which 
rises  a  dense  jungle  of  papyrus  (Arab,  babtr).  The  other  banks  are  devoid 
of  vegetation.  The  lake  has  been  carefully  explored  by  Macgregor  ('The 
Eob  Roy  on  the  Jordan'). 

The  plain  to  the  N.  of  Lake  Huleh  forms  a  basin  of  tolerably  regular 
form,  and  about  5  51.  in  width.  The  E.  hills  are  less  abrupt,  though  higher 
than  the  W.  The  broad  bed  of  the  valley  is  for  the  most  part  a  mere  swamp, 
in  which  the  buffaloes  belonging  to  the  Beduins  wallow.  These  Beduins 
(Ghawarineh)  are  generally  peaceable;  their  occupations  are  hunting,  fish- 
ing, and  cattle-breeding.  The  soil  of  the  sides  of  the  valley  is  good.  Trav- 
ellers should  be  on  their  guard  against  malaria. 

In  order  to  avoid  the  marshes,  the  road  skirts  the  W.  hills  (guide 
necessary).  On  the  left,  after  about  1  hr.  10  min.,  lies  'Ain  el-Beldta;  after 
21/4  hrs.  the  road  crosses,  below  the  fortress  of  Hunin  (p.  258),  on' the  left, 
the  Nahr  Derddra,  a  tributary  of  the  Jordan  descending  from  51crj  'Ayiin 
(p.  287).  Near  the  ruin  of  Khirbet  el- Kh&n,  on  the  right,  some  authorities 
place  the  site  of  ancient  Razor.  We  now  turn  towards  the  N.E.,  and  in 
1  hr.  reach  Jisr  el-Qhajar  (p.  258).    Hence  to  Bdniyds,  see  pp.  258,  259. 

The  Roman  road  leads  to  the  N.  past  the  Khan  Jubb  Yusuf,  and 
limestone  rocks  now  take  the  place  of  basalt.  Ascending  towards 
the  N.  W.  by  a  poor  road,  we  pass  some  ruins  (55  min.)  at  the  sum- 
mit, and  then  descend  (J/4  hr.  J  to  the  beautiful  spring  of  'Ain  el- 
Hamra  with  its  surrounding  gardens.  The  road  now  bends  to  the 
right  and  leads  up  the  valley,  soon  reaching  the  first  houses  of 
(10  min.)  — 

Safed.  —  Accommodation  in  the  house  of  Herr  Maass,  a  cabinet- 
maker, or  in  some  other  respectable  house  indicated  by  him. 

Turkish  Post  Office;  international  Telegraph. 

Consulates.  Britain  (vice-consul)  and  Austria  (consular  agent),  Miklosc- 
wicz:  France,  Hui  (consular  agent). 

Physicians.  Dr.  Wilson,  of  the  Scottish  51ission;  Dr.  Anderson,  of  the 
London  Mission  to  the  Jews.  —  Both  Missions  have  Hospital*. 

History.  The  name  of  'Safef  occurs  in  the  Talmud  of  Jerusalem,  and 
the  place  is  also  known  to  Arabian  geographers  under  that  name.  In  1140 
a  castle  was  erected  here  by  Fulke.  Saladin  had  great  difficulty  in  re- 
ducing the  fortress.  In  1220  the  castle  was  demolished  by  the  Sultan  of 
Damascus,  but  it  was  afterwards  restored  by  the  Templars.  In  1266  the 
garrison  surrendered  to  Beibars.  In  1759  it  was  destroyed  by  an  earth- 
quake, aud  in  1799  it  was  occupied  by  the  French  for  a  short  period. 
The  town  sustained  a  terrible  blow  from  the  earthquake  of  1st  Jan.,  1837.  — 
The  Jewish  colony  now  settled  at  Safed  was  not  founded  earlier  than  the 
16th  cent.  A.I).,  and  soon  after  that  period  a  learned  rabbinical  school 
sprang  up  here.  The  most  famous  teachers  were  originally  Spanish  Jews. 
Besides  the  schools  there  were  eighteen  synagogues  and  a  printing-office 
here.  Cabbalistic  lore  was  also  much  studied  in  Safed. 

Safed  is  the  seat  of  a  Kaimmakam  (under  Acre)  and  contains 
some  30,000  inhab.,  mostly  Jews,  with  about  7000  Muslims,  400 
Greeks  (with  a  church),  and  a  few  Protestants.  There  are  stations 
here  of  the  English  Mission  to  the  Jews  and  of  the  Scottish  Mission. 
Most  of  the  Jews  now  at  Safed  aTe  Polish  immigrants  (Ashkenazim), 
under  Austrian  protection.  The  Jews  regard  this  town  also  as  holy, 
for,  according  to  their  tradition,  the  Messiah  is  to  come  from  Safed. 
Among  the  Sephardim  Jews  (pp.  lxij,  Ixiii)  settled  here  polygamy 


to  Safed. 


KAFR  BIR1M. 


32.  Route.    255 


is  still  practised.  The  Muslim  inhabitants  are  fanatical.  Theclimate, 
owing  to  the  lofty  situation  of  the  town  (2749  ft.),  the  highest  in 
Galilee,  is  very  healthy. 

The  town  surrounds  the  castle-lull  on  theW.,  S.,  and  E.  It 
is  very  hilly  and  extraordinarily  dirty ,  especially  in  the  Jewish 
quarter  on  the  W.  side.  There  are  two  mosques  and  an  attractive 
Serai  with  a  tower.  —  The  Ruined  Castle  commands  a  fine  view. 
To  the  W.  rise  the  beautifully  wooded  Jebcl  Zebud  (3655  ft.)  and 
Jebel  Jcrmak  (3933  ft. );  the  ascent  of  the  latter,  the  highest  moun- 
tain in  Palestine  on  this  side  of  the  Jordan ,  is  said  to  be  in- 
teresting. Below,  the  Wadi  ct-Tawahin  (mill  valley)  descends  to 
the  E.  to  the  plain.  To  the  S.  rises  Mt.  Tabor,  and  to  the  S.W.,  in 
the  distance,  the  ridge  of  Mt.  Carmel;  to  the  S.E.  the  mountains  to 
the  E.  of  Lake  Tiberias  are  visible,  while  in  the  distance  to  the  E. 
rise  the  ranges  of  Jolan  and  the  Hauran  with  the  summit  of  the 
Kuleib  (p.  164). 

From  Safed  to  Meiron  and  Kafr  Bir'im  (3!/2-4  hrs.). 

Meiron  lies  fi/2-2  hrs.  to  the  W.JJ.W.  of  Safed.  The  village,  which 
is  mentioned  in  the  Talmud,  is  the  most  famous  and  highly  revered  pil- 
grimage-shrine of  the  Jews.  There  is  situated  here  the  ruin  of  an  old 
Synagogue,  of  which  the  S.  wall  with  its  largo  hewn  stones  is  the  part 
best  preserved.  The  two  door-posts  are  monoliths,  nearly  10  ft.  high. 
Near  this  synagogue  is  situated  the  tomb  of  Rabbi  Jochanan  Sandelar  ('shoe- 
maker'), and  in  the  enclosed  burial-ground  arc  those  of  Rabbi  Simeon  ben 
Jochai,  who  is  said  to  have  written  the  book  Zohar,  and  of  his  son  Rabbi 
Eleatar.  On  the  pillars  are  small  basins  in  which  offerings  are  burned, 
especially  on  the  great  annual  festival  on  the  30th  April.  A  little  lower 
down  the  hill  is  the  tomb  of  Rabbi  Httlel  and  his  'thirty-six  pupils',  in  a 
large  rock-chamber  with  seven  vaults.  The  grave  of  the  Rabbi  Bhammai 
is  also  shown.  These  rabbis,  who  flourished  in  the  first  centuries  of  the 
Christian  era,  were  among  the  oldest  and  most  distinguished  Jewish 
teachers,  and  their  dicta  preserved  in  the  Talmud  are  considered  of  the 
highest  authority. 

From  Meiron  we  descend  into  the  valley  by  a  steep  road,  and  in  '/2  hr. 
pass  the  small  village  of  Safsdf  on  the  right.  We  then  reach  (10  min.) 
a  low  ridge,  descend  into  the  Wddi  Khildl ,  avoid  the  road  to  Sa'sa'  (p.  256) 
on  the  left,  and  cross  the  Wddi  Ndsir  C/4  hr.).  Again  ascending,  we  come 
to  (35  min.)  the  Maronite  village  of  — 

Kafr  Birrim.  This  was  formerly  another  important  Jewish  place  of 
pilgrimage  (at  the  feast  of  Purim),  and  was  famous  as  the  burial-place  of  the 
judge  Barak  and  the  prophet  Obadiah.  The  ruin  of  a  Synagogue,  likewise 
dating  from  the  first  centuries  of  the  Christian  era,  lies  in.thc  N.E.  part  of 
the  village.  In  front  of  the  facade  stood  a  colonnade  of  two  rows  of  columns. 
The  capitals  are  in  the  form  of  superimposed  rings  diminishing  in 
girth  towards  the  shaft  of  the  column.  The  central  portal  is  richly  de- 
corated; over  the  cornice  is  an  arch  embellished  with  a  frieze  of  grape- 
vines. On  each  side  of  the  portal  are  smaller  doors,  and  over  each  is  a 
window.  Among  the  fields,  5  min.  to  the  N.E.,  are  traces  of  another 
synagogue.  The  Hebrew  inscription  belonging  to  it  has  been  built  into  the 
wall  of  a  private  house. 

From  Kafr  Birrim  to  Tyre-,  see  below. 


From  Safed  to  Tyre. 
1.   Direct  Route  (ca.  11  hrs.).  —  This  route  leads  to   the  N.W.   to 
(I8/4  hr.)  Saftdf,   whence  it  goes  on  direct  to  (ltys  hr.)  Kafr  Bir'im  (see 
above),    leaving  El-Jish  above  on  the  right.    We  then  descend  through  a 


256    tfouie  32. 


TOMB  OF  HIRAM. 


beautiful  valley  to  (1  hr.  10  min.)  Rumeish,  and  in  50  min.  more  we  pass 
below  the  village  of  Dibl.  We  continue  to  follow  the  windings  of  the 
deeply-cut  valley  for  8/4  hr.  more,  leaving  it  at  a  point  where  it  makes 
a  sharp  bend  to  the  S.  A  steep  ascent  of  40  min.  brings  us  to  Ycfter, 
where  we  obtain  a  beautiful  view  of  the  sea  and  of  the  coast  plain  of 
Tyre.  Our  route  now  descends  through  the  Wddi  Ntdra,  passing  (i/s  hr.) 
a  grotto  in  the  right  wall  of  the  valley.  In  20  min.  we  ascend  along  the 
right  side  of  the  valley  to  a  hill  with  the  ruins  of  'Ait/eh  (to  the  right), 
to  the  N.  (right)  of  which  lies  the  village  of  Sedakin.  In  50  min.  more 
we  come  to  the  Christian  village  of  Kana. 

From  Kana  we  may  reach  the  Tomb  of  Hiram  (see  below)  in  1  hr.  via 
(8/4  hr.)  Hann&weh  in  the  Wddi  Ab,  where  large  hewn  blocks  and  broken 
sarcophagi  lie  scattered  about.  This  appears  to  have  been  once  an  im- 
portant place,  perhaps  the  'stronghold  of  Tyre1,  or  frontier-fortress  of  the 
Tyrian  district  (2  Sam.  xxiv.  7;  Josh.  xix.  2!1). 

A  somewhat  longer  route  from  Kana  leads  at  first  to  the  ruins  of 
El-Khusneh  (cisterns,  graves,  etc.),  which  command  a  view  of  the  hilly 
country  of  Tyre.  The  village  of  J/ammdm  lies  to  the  left.  Numerous  other 
ruins  in  every  direction  indicate  that  this  part  of  Phoenicia  was  once 
densely  peopled.  In  50  min.  more  we  reach  the  so-called  Tomb  of  Hiram 
(Kabr  Ilairdn),  the  tradition  connected  with  which  is  not  traceable  farther 
back  than  1833.  The  structure  itself,  however,  is  undoubtedly  a  Phoenician 
work,  possibly  of  a  pre-Hellenic  period.  It  has  an  unfinished  appearance 
and  consists  of  a  pedestal  of  huge  stones,  each  10  ft.  long,  about  8  ft.  wide, 
and  3  ft.  thick.  On  this  lies  a  still  thicker  slab  of  rock,  overhanging  on 
every  side,  and  bearing  a  massive  sarcophagus,  covered  with  a  stone  lid 
of  irregular  pyramidal  form.  The  monument  is  about  20  ft.  high.  Behind 
the  tomb  is  a  rock-chamber,  to  which  a  stair  descends.  —  The  little  valley 
to  the  S.  of  the  road  contains  another  small  necropolis,  where  sarcophagi 
are  hewn  in  the  rock  and  have  lids  consisting  of  prismatic  blocks.  On 
the  Tyre  road,  about  330  yds.  from  Kabr  Hairan,  are  the  remains  of  a 
Byzantine  church,  whence  a  fine  mosaic  pavement  (5th  cent.)  has  been 
carried  to  Paris. 

As  we  proceed,  we  pass  several  cisterns  and  oil-presses.  After  '/*  nr- 
the  road  forks,  the  left  branch  descending  to  the  W.  to  (20  min.)  Ras 
el-rAin  (p.  2G7).  Our  route  (to  the  right)  continues  to  follow  the  ridge 
for  some  time  longer  and  reaches  Tyre  (p.  267)  in  H/2  hr. 

2.  Via  Tibnin  (ca.  12  hrs.).  —  To  'Ain  ez-ZeMn  (20  min.),  see  p.  257. 
We  ascend  to  the  N.W.  ;  after  8/4  hr-  we  see  the  village  of  Kadila  on  the 
left  and  Taiteba  (p.  257)  on  the  right.  We  next  reach  (25  lhin.)  a  large, 
crater-like  basin  called  Birhet  el-Jish.  which  sometimes  contains  water, 
beyond  which  (20  min.)  we  come  to  the  end  of  the  lofty  plain.  On  the 
left  lies  Sa'sa'  (p.  255).  In  10  min.  we  reach  the  foot  of  a  conical  height, 
on  which  El-Jish  is  situated.  This  is  the  Gush  Halab  of  the  Talmud, 
and  the  Giscala  of  Josephus,  by  whom  it  was  once  fortified;  it  was  the 
last  fortress  in  Galilee  to  succumb  to  the  Romans.  St.  Jerome  informs  us 
that  the  parents  of  St.  Paul  lived  here  before  they  removed  to  Tarsus. 

Leaving  El-Jish,  we  turn  towards  the  E.,  and  then  descend  the  beauti- 
ful valley  towards  the  N.W.  for  1  hr.  The  village  of  Ydriln  (probably  the 
Iron  of  Joshua  xix.  38)  becomes  visible  on  the  slope  of  the  hill.  To  the 
N.E.  of  Yarun,  on  a  small,  isolated  eminence,  are  the  ruins  of  Ed-Deir 
(the  monastery).  The  Greek  cross  on  one  of  the  Corinthian  capitals 
shows  that  a  monastery  once,  stood  here,  but  there  is  no  doubt  that  the 
building  was  originally  a  synagogue,  resembling  that  of  Kafr  Bir'im 
(p.  255).  Here  also  a  colonnade  stood  in  front  of  the  principal  entrance 
on  the  S.  side.  The  three  gates,  whose  jambs,  nearly  8  ft,  in  height, 
are  monoliths,  are  on  the  W.  side.  In  the  interior  a  double  row  of  columns 
ran  from  the  gates  towards  the  altar. 

Here  begins  the  district  of  Bildd  Beshdra,  in  which  many  Metawileh 
live  (p.  lxxii  I .  In  2  hrs.  we  reach  the  village  Binl  Umm  Jebeil.  A  little  farther 
on  we  obtain  a  striking  view  of  the  fortress  of  Tibnin,  which  is  still  2  hrs. 
distant.    The  road  descends  into  a  valley   flanked  with  precipitous  hills. 


KADES. 


33.  Route.    257 


Tibnin,  a  considerable  village,  inhabited  by  Metawileh  and  Christians, 
lies  upon  a  saddle  opposite  the  fortress,  which  stands  upon  the  abrupt 
N.K.  peak  of  the  hill.  A  steep  path  ascends  to  the  Castle,  which  is  now 
occupied  by  the  Mudir  of  the  Nahiya  Bilad  Beshara.  —  Hewn  stones 
of  ancient  workmanship  on  the  E.  side  and  the  numerous  cistern  cavities 
prove  that  this  was  a  fortified  place  at  an  earlier  period  than  the  middle 
ages.  It  may  be  the  Tafnit  of  the  Talmud.  The  fortress  of  Toron  was 
erected  in  1107  by  Hugh  of  St.  Omer,  lord  of  Tiberias,  for  the  purpose 
of  making  incursions  hence  into  the  territory  of  Tyre.  After  the  battle 
of  Hattin  the  circumstances  were  reversed,  and  the  Saracens  made  pre- 
datory attacks  from  the  castle  against  the  Christians  of  Tyre.  The  castle 
was  besieged  unsuccessfully  by  the  Christians  in  1197-98.  Tibnin  was 
afterwards  razed  by  Sultan  El-Murazzam.  Its  destruction  was  completed 
by  Jezzar  Pasha  (p.  230).  —  The  castle  commands  a  superb  "View,  ranging 
over  an  extensive  mountainous  region  with  numerous  gorges.  Towards 
the  W.  the  sea  is  visible  as  far  as  Tyre,  and  to  the  N.E.  rise  the  snow 
mountains.  To  the  B.,  near  the  village  of  Bara's/iit,  stands  a  huge  oak, 
known  as  the  Tree  of  the  Messiah.  The  tomb  of  Shamgar  (Judges  iii.  31) 
is  shown  near  Tibnin. 

From  Tibnin  we  ride  round  the  S.  lateral  valley  and  reach  C/2  hr.) 
the  head  of  the  Wddi  el-Md,  where  we  enjoy  a  fine  view.  We  descend 
the  Wddi  el-JedUn  into  the  (25  min.)  Wddi  el-'AshUr,  which  latter  valley 
we  follow.  After  1  hr.  the  road  leads  to  the  small  plateau  of  Merj  Safrd 
to  the  left,  after  1/4  hr.  descends  towards  the  W.,  and  (5  min.)  reaches 
the  village  of  Kdna  (p.  256),  after  crossing  the  Wddi  esh-Shemdli.  From 
Kana  to  Tyre,  see  p.  256. 


33.  From  Safed  to  Damascus  via  Baniyas. 

24'/2  hrs.  Meis,  51/4  hrs. ;  Bdniyds,  4'/4  nrs-  i  Kafr  Huwar,  8  hrs. ;  Damas- 
cus, 7  hrs.  —  NiGHTQUAitTKKS  in  Meis,  Baniyas,  and'  Kafr  Hawar.  —  For 
the  less-frequented  route  via  El-Kuneitra,  see  p.  263. 

The  shortest  route  leads  from  Safed  down  the  valley  and  joins 
the  direct  road  from  Khan  Juhb  Yusuf  to  Baniyas  (p.  253). 

The  more  interesting  route  crosses  the  mountains  towards  the 
N.  We  descend  to  the  N.N.W.  into  the  valley  to  (20  min.)  'Ain 
ez-Zeitiln,  whence  we  have  a  beautiful  retrospect.  Beyond  the  vil- 
lage a  path  on  the  left  leads  to  Meiron  (p.  255).  Several  small 
valleys  are  crossed,  and  (25  min.)  the  path  to  Deldta  (visible  to  the 
N.E.)  diverges  on  the  right.  We  next  come  to  (25  min.)  Taiteba, 
to  the  E.  of  which  is  a  water-basin.  The  road  first  leads  to  the 
N.E.  and  then  (25  min.)  turns  to  the  N.  From  the  top  of  the  hill 
we  enjoy  an  admirable  survey  of  the  valley  of  Jordan  and  the  basin 
of  Lake  Hfileh.  Our  road  now  (20  min.)  traverses  the  Wddi  el- 
Mesheirejeh.  On  the  left  is  the  village  of  Rds  el-Ahmar.  In  25  min. 
we  reach  'Almd,  and  perceive  Fdra  to  the  left.  The  route  descends 
(26  min.)  into  the  deep  Wddi  'Aubd,  and  (1/4  hr.)  again  ascends. 
To  the  left,  on  the  hill,  lies  Deishttn,  picturesquely  situated  above 
the  valley.  We  reach  it  in  20  min.  The  inhabitants  are  Moghrebins 
from  Algiers.    In  3/4  hr.  we  reach  the  village  of  — 

Kades.  —  History.  Kedesh  was  allotted  to  the  tribe  of  Naphtali  (Joshua 
xx.  7).  It  was  the  native  place  of  Barak,  Deborah's  general  (Judg.  iv.  6). 
The  town  was  taken  and  its  inhabitants  carried  into  captivity  by  Tiglath- 
Pileser.  The  tombs  of  Barak  and  Deborah,  among  others,  were  afterwards 
shown  here. 


1HHB 


HUNIN. 


From  So  fed 


By  the  spring  below  the  village  are  several  large  sarcophagi,  some 
of  which  are  used  as  troughs.  To  the  N.E.  of  the  spring  is  a  small 
building,  a  vaulted  tomb,  constructed  of  large  blocks;  two  arches  are 
preserved,  and  also  part  of  the  door,  which  looks  southwards.  Farther 
to  the  E.  are  several  sarcophagi,  standing  together  on  a  raised  plat- 
form. On  the  sides  are  hewn  rosettes.  The  lids,  some  of  which 
cover  two  receptacles,  are  finely  executed.  Farther  to  the  E.  lie  the 
ruins  of  a  large  building,  named  El-Amdra,  possibly  a  Roman 
temple.  A  piece  of  the  E.  wall,  with  a  large  portal  flanked  by  two 
smaller  ones,  is  still  standing.  The  village  contains  an  interesting 
octagonal  column,  many  capitals,  and  other  fragments. 

The  road  leads  direct  to  the  N.  across  a  small  plain ;  after  about 
20  min.  it  leads  to  the  N.AV.  up  a  valley  ;  after  6  min.,  a  reservoir; 
after  5  min.  the  valley  divides  (on  the  hill,  the  village  of  Bidden). 
We  now  ascend  the  hill  to  the  N.W.  between  the  two  valleys,  pass- 
ing (10  min.)  some  ruins,  leave  (10  min.)  Umm  Habib  on  the  hill 
to  the  left,  and  (1/4  hr.)  reach  Meis,  a  large  double  village  on  two 
separate  hills  (quarters  for  the  night  in  private  houses). 

A  little  farther  on  we  come  upon  traces  of  a  Roman  road.  After 
a/4  hr.  we  see  the  ruined  castle  of  Menara  on  the  hill  to  the  right. 
SVe  then  come  to  the  margin  of  the  chain  of  hills  and  enjoy  a  fine 
view  of  the  Jordan  valley  and  Lake  Huleh ,  the  grand  range  of 
Mt.  Hermon,  the  fortress  of  Tibnin  to  the  W.,  and  Hunin  to  the 
N.  —  In  35  min.  we  reach  the  ruins  of  the  extensive  fortress  of 
Hunin  (2953  ft.  above  the  sea-level).  It  is  unknown  to  what  ancient 
place  Hunin  corresponds.  In  the  middle  ages  it  was  a  link  between 
Baniyas  and  the  coast.  The  castle  was  seriously  damaged  by  the 
earthquake  of  1837.  The  substructions  (now  used  as  stables)  are 
certainly  ancient,  as  is  proved  by  the  drafted  blocks  on  the  E.  and 
S.  sides.  Similar  stones  are  seen  in  a  portal  in  the  village.  The 
castle  was  defended  by  a  moat  19  ft.  deep  and  of  the  same  width. 
Hunin  commands  a  beautiful  *View,  and  Baniyas  is  visible  in  the 
distance. 

From  Hunin  to  Tibnin  (p.  257),  3  hrs. 

The  road  now  descends  rapidly  into  the  valley.  In  the  plain  be- 
low lies  the  Christian  village  of  AMI  el-Kamh,  answering  to  the  an- 
cient Abel  of  Beth  Maachah  (2  Sam.  xx.  14,  16);  and  farther  to  the 
N.  is  Mutelleh,  a  Druse  village.  Our  route  leaves  both  of  these  to 
the  left,  and  (55  min.)  reaches  the  low  ground  where  all  the  sources 
of  Jordan  unite  and  empty  themselves  into  Lake  Huleh  (p.  253). 
After  8  min.  we  cross  the  Derddra  by  a  bridge  of  a  single  arch.  On 
the  left  side  are  several  ruins.  The  view  down  the  valley  is  very 
fine.  This  tract  was  once  richly  cultivated,  but  is  now  chiefly  used 
as  grazing-land  by  the  Beduins,  who  find  excellent  pastures  here. 
After  10  min.  we  cross  a  dry  water-course,  and  in  25  min.  reach 
the  dilapidated  bridge  of  Jisr  el-Ohajar,  which  crosses  the  Nahr 
el-Hdsbant,  the  chief  source  of  the  Jordan  (comp.  pp.  259,  287). 


to  Damascus. 


B  ANITAS. 


33.  Route.    259 


The  entire  district  is  well  watered  and  frequently  forms  a  great 
marsh  in  winter.  The  road  now  leads  to  the  S.E. ;  before  us,  on  the 
hill  a  little  to  the  right,  is  the  wcli  of  Nebi  Seyyid  Yehuda.  After 
3/4  hr.  we  see  a  little  to  the  right  (S.)  of  the  road  — 

Tell  el-K&di,  an  extensive  mound,  330  paces  long,  270  paces 
wide,  and  30-38  ft.  above  the  plain.  On  the  top  is  a  Muslim  tomb 
\inder  an  oak. 

HisTOKr.  The  words  Kadi  (Arabic  for  'judge1)  and  Dan  (Hebrew)  are 
synonymous.  On  the  Tellel-Kadi  doubtless  stood  the  ancient  city  of  Dan, 
the  N.  frontier-town  of  the  Is'raelitish  kingdom,  whence  arose  the  often 
recurring  expression  'from  Dan  to  Beersheba'.  Before  the  place  was  con- 
quered by  the  Danites  (Judg.  xviii.  27  et  seq.)  it  was  called  Lnith,  and 
belonged  to  the  territory  of  Sidon.  It  was  afterwards  conquered  by 
Benhadad,  King  of  Syria  (1  Kings  xv.  20). 

On  the  W.  side  of  the  hill  is  a  basin  about  GO  paces  in  width,  from 
which  a  stream  emerges  (500  ft.  above  the  sea-level).  From  the  S.W. 
corner  of  the  mound  issues  another  stream,  soon  uniting  with  the  first 
to  form  El-Ledd&n.  This  stream,  which  Josephus  calls  the  Little  Jordan, 
is  popularly  regarded  as  the  chief  source  of  the  Jordan  from  its  being  the 
most  copious.  It  contains  twice  as  much  water  as  the  stream  from  Baniyas 
(p.  260),  and  thrice,  as  much  as  the  Hasbani  (p.  25S).  The  three  sources 
unite  at  Sheikh  Ytisuf.  about  D/2  M.  farther  to  the  S.  At.  this  last  point 
the  Jordan  is  45  ft.  wide,  its  bed  being  double  that  width,  and  it  lies 
13-20  ft.  below  the  level  of  the  plain. 

The  path  gradually  ascends  through  wood,  passing  several  mur- 
muring brooks;  in  about  40  min.  we  reach  — 

B&niyas,  beautifully  situated  in  a  nook  of  the  Hermon  moun- 
tains, 1080  ft.  above  the  sea-level  and  575  ft.  above  Tell  el-Kadi, 
between  the  Wddi  Khashabeh  (N.)  and  the  Wadi  Za'areh  (  S. ),  two 
valleys  coming  from  the  E.  A  third  valley,  the  Wadi  el-'Asal,  opens 
a  little  to  the  N.,  from  a  deep  wooded  ravine  among  the  mountains. 
"Water  abounds  in  every  direction,  calling  into  life  a  teeming  luxu- 
riance of  vegetation,  and  serving  to  irrigate  the  fields  which  extend 
hence  down  to  the  plain.  The  present  village  consists  of  about  fifty 
houses,  most  of  which  are  enclosed  within  the  ancient  castle-wall. 
On  the  S.  side  of  this  wall  flows  the  brook  of  the  Wadi  Za'areh, 
which  unites  a  little  lower  down  with  the  copious  stream  of  the 
infant  Jordan.  Remains  of  columns  show  that  the  ancient  city  ex- 
tended far  to  the  S.  beyond  the  Wadi  Za'areh. 

The  modern  Baniyas  was  anciently  the  Greek  Paneas,  which,  accord- 
ing to  Josephus,  appears  also  to  have  been  the  name  of  a  district.  A  grotto 
above  the  source  of  the  Jordan  was  a  sanctuary  of  Pan  (Paneion).  Herod  the 
Great  erected  a  temple  over  the  spring  (p.  260)  in  honour  of  Augustus. 
Philip  the  Tetrarch,  Herod\s  son,  enlarged  Paneas  and  gave  it  the  name 
of  Caesareu  P/iilippi,  to  distinguish  it  from  Ca-sarea  Palscstinee  (p.  232).  This 
is  probably  the  most  northerly  point  ever  visited  by  Christ  (Matth.  xvi.  13; 
Mark  viii.  27).  Herod  Agrippa  II.  extended  the  town  and  called  it  Nero- 
nias,  but  the  older  name  never  entirely  disappeared  and  in  the  4th  cent, 
was  again  revived.  Titus  here  celebrated  the  capture  of  Jerusalem  with 
gladiatorial  combats.  An  early  Christian  tradition  makes  this  the  scene 
of  the  healing  of  the  woman  with  the  issue  of  blood  (Matth.  ix.  20  et  seq.). 
In  the  4th  cent,  a  bishopric  was  founded  here  under  the  patriarchate  of 
Antioch.  During  the  Crusades  Baniyas  was  in  1229  or  1230  surrendered, 
together  with  the  lofty  fortress  of  Ef-Subeibeh  (p.  260),  to  the  Christians 


260   Route  33.         KAI/AT  ES-SUBEIBEH.  From  Safed 

after  their  unsuccessful  attack  on  Damascus.  In  1132  it  was  taken  by  Taj 
el-JIuluk  Buri,  Sultan  of  Damascus,  but  in  1139  it  was  recaptured  by 
the  Christians.  A  Latin  bishopric,  subordinate  to  the  archbishopric  of 
Tyre,  was  then  founded  here.  Nureddin  (p.  lxxxiii)  conquered  the  town  in 
1157,  but  could  not  reduce  the  fortress.  The  town  was  retaken  by  Bald- 
win III.,  but  was  finally  occupied  by  Nureddin  in  1165.  Sultan  el-Mu'azzam 
caused  the  fortifications  to  be  razed. 

The  massive  Castlb  in  the  N.  part  of  the  town  was  protected  on 
the  N.  side  by  the  waters  of  the  Baniyas  spring.  The  comer-towers 
of  the  walls  were  round  and  constructed  of  large  drafted  blocks. 
Three  of  these  towers  are  preserved.  In  the  centre  of  the  S.  side  of 
the  castle  stands  a  portal,  which  is  antique,  though  bearing  an 
Arabic  inscription.  A  stone  bridge,  which  is  also  partly  ancient, 
crosses  the  wadi  from  this  point,  and  several  columns  of  granite  are 
observed  in  its  walls. 

The  chief  object  of  interest  is  the  Souecb  of  tiik  Jordan,  which 
issues  below  the  W.  end  of  the  lofty  castle-hill.  The  mountain  ter- 
minates here  iii  a  precipitous  cliff  of  limestone  (mingled  with  basalt), 
and  appears  to  have  been  so  broken  away  by  convulsions  of  nature, 
that  a  large  cavern  which  once  existed  here  has  been  nearly  destroyed. 
Beneath  the  mass  of  broken  rocks  that  choke  the  entrance  to  the 
cavern  (Arab.  Mugharet  Rds  en-Neba',  'the  cavern  of  the  spring') 
and  almost  conceal  it,  bursts  forth  an  abundant  stream  of  beautiful 
clear  water.  By  this  spring  stood  the  Paneion  and  the  Temple  of 
Herod  (p.  259).  On  the  face  of  the  cliff,  to  the  right  of  the  cavern, 
are  four  votive  niches,  partly  hollowed  out  in  the  form  of  shells, 
which  were  once  much  higher  above  the  ground  than  now.  Over  the 
small  niche  to  the  E.  is  the  inscription  in  Greek  :  'Priest  of  Pan'.  — 
On  the  rock  stands  the  small  weli  of  Sheikh  Khidr  ( St.  George), 
which  commands  a  good  survey  of  Baniyas. 

The  huge  castle  above  Baniyas,  *Kal'at  es-Subeibeh  (a  name 
now  almost  unused),  however,  commands  a  far  finer  prospect,  and 
the  ascent  (1  hr.)  is  strongly  recommended  (guide  desirable). 
Riding  is  practicable  nearly  all  the  way  to  the  top.  The  castle, 
which  is  one  of  the  best-preserved  and  largest  in  Syria,  stands  on 
the  irregularly  shaped  summit  of  a  narrow  ridge,  from  590  to  690  ft. 
high,  separated  from  the  flank  of  Mt.  Hermon  by  the  Wadi  Khas- 
habeh  (p.  259).  The  edifice  follows  the  irregularities  of  its  site. 
From  E.  to  W.  it  is  480  yds.  long,  at  each  end  120  yds.  wide,  but 
in  the  middle  much  narrower.  The  E.  part  of  the  building  is  higher 
than  the  W.  part,  and  affords  a  survey  of  the  whole  fortress.  This 
part  was  originally  meant  to  form  a  distinct  citadel,  being  sep- 
arated from  the  "W.  part  by  a  wall  and  moat.  The  N.  side  of  the 
castle  presents  the  most  striking  appearance. 

The  greater  part  of  the  castle  was  erected  by  the  Franks,  who  held 
possession  of  it  from  1139  to  1164.  All  the  substructions  consist  of  drafted 
blocks  of  beautiful  workmanship.  Part  of  the  enclosing  wall  has  fallen 
over  the  precipice.  The  entrance  is  on  the  S.  side;  a  little  to  the  E.  is 
preserved  a  round  tower  called  by  the  Arabs  El-Mehke.meh,  or  'house  of 
judgment'.    Externally  it  possesses  very  handsome  pointed  niches,   and 


to  Damascus. 


H1BBARIYEH. 


33.  Route.    261 


the  thick  wall  is  pierced  with  small  arched  apertures  resembling  loopholes. 
The  vaulting  is  borne  by  a  large  pillar.  The  ear-shaped  enrichments  on 
the  arches  are  curious.  On  the  S.  side  of  the  castle  several  other  build- 
ings resembling  towers  are  still  standing.  The  Arabic  inscriptions  reach 
back  to  the  beginning  of  the  13th  cent.,  and  probably  have  reference  to 
the  thorough  restoration  of  the  castle.  The  S.W.  angle  (2486  ft.)  com- 
mands the  best  "View  of  Baniyas,  the  Huleh  Lake  (p.  253),  and  the  hills 
beyond  Jordan.  To  the  N.W.  Kal'at  esh-Shakif  (p.  286),  and  to  the  W. 
Hunin  (p.  258)  serve  as  it  were 'to  balance  the  picture.  To  the  S.  fAnflt  is 
visible,  and  above  it,  Za'areh.  To  the  S.E.  is  cAin  Kanya  (see  below);  to 
the  E.,  the  village  of  Jubbata.    The  view  is  one  of  the  linest  in  Syria. 

Leaving  the  castle  towards  the  E.S.E.,  we  may  descend  by  a  steep 
path  into  the  valley,  ascend  a  little  on  the  opposite  side,  and  thus  regain 
the  Damascus  road  at  ('/a  hr.)  'Ain  er-Rihdn  (see  below). 

In  order  to  visit  the  Birket  Ram  from  Baniyas  (2  hrs.;  guide  neces- 
s  ary).  we  proceed  past  the  Wadi  Za'areh  (p.  259)  and  via,  (I  hr.)  'Ain  Kanya. 
The  Birket  Ram  is  the  lake  of  P/iiala,  mentioned  by  Josephus.  It  was  at 
one  time  believed  that  the  spring  of  Baniyas  was  fed  from  this  lake,  but  the 
impossibility  of  this  theory  has  long  been  recognized.  The  lake  of  Phiala, 
named  after  its  shape  ('cup''),  obviously  occupies  an  extinct  crater,  situated 
150-200  ft.  below  the  surrounding  tableland,  and  about  3000  paces  in  cir- 
cumference. The  water  is  impure.  According  to  tradition,  the  lake  occu- 
pies the  site  of  a  village,  which  was  submerged  to  punish  the  inhabitants 
for  their  inhospitable  treatment  of  travellers.  —  Riding  hence  to  the  N.N.E. 
towards  Mejdel,  we  regain  the  Damascus  road  in  1  hr.  (p.  262). 

Fkom  Baniyas  to  Hasbeita  (4%  hrs.).  —  The  road  leads  to  (20  min.) 
the  W.  margin  of  the'terrace.  After  1/4  hr.  it  crosses  the  Wddi  el-'Asal, 
and  after  1/2  br.  more  turns  more  to  the  N.,  towards  the  Wddi  el-Teim. 
It  then  passes  (25  min.)  a  spring  on  the  left,  and  reaches  (1/4  hr.)  'Am 
el-Khirwa'a,  near  a  small  village,  where  there  is  a  fine  view.  About  40  min. 
beyond  fAin  Khirwara  we  begin  to  ascend  the  hills  on  the  E.  side  of  the 
Wadi  et-Teim,  reach  the  (1/4  hr.)  Wddi  Serayib,  cros3  a  hill,  and  grad- 
ually descend  thence  into  the  Wddi  Khureibeh.  The  village  remains  on  the 
left.  The  direct  route  hence  leads  to  Hasbeiya  (p.  287)  in  2  hrs.  We  may, 
however,  follow  the  more  interesting  route  O/2  hr.  longer)  which  ascends 
to  (35  min.)  the  large  village  of  Rdsheiyal  el-Fukhdr,  where,  as  the  name 
imports,  there  are  numerous  potteries.  After  25  min.  we  begin  to  des- 
cend into  the  Wddi  SMb'a.  In  40  min.  we  reach  Hibbariyeh.  The  views 
are  beautiful.  Among  the  fields  below  the  village  stands  a  tolerably 
well-preserved  Temple,  part  of  which  has  now  been  built  into  a  house. 
The  building  stands  on  a  basement  71/2  ft.  high,  with  a  cornice  running 
round  it.  On  the  N.  and  W.  sides  are  entrances,  probably  once  leading 
into  vaults  whence  the  cella  could  be  reached.  The  temple  is  'in  antis', 
and  faces  the  E.  It  is  56  ft.  long,  29  ft.  wide,  and  from  the  platform  to 
the  cornice  26  ft.  high.  At  the  corners  are  pilasters  in  the  wall  with  Ionic 
capitals,  between  which  on  the  E.  side  the  portico  was  formed  by  two 
columns.  On  each  side  of  the  portal  (15  ft.  in  height)  are  two  niches, 
the  lower  being  shell-shaped.  The  arch  above  is  borne  by  pilasters.  The 
upper  niches  are  crowned  with  pediments.  The  interior  of  the  temple 
is  bur;ed  in  rubbish.  At  the  S.W.  corner  of  the  cella  a  staircase  leads 
through  the  wall.  In  the  interior  of  the  pronaos  and  the  cella  a  moulding 
runs  round  the  whole  building.  On  the  outside  the  stones  are  drafted.  — 
In  1/4  hr.  from  this  point  we  cross  the  brook  of  the  Wddi  SMb'a,  and  in 
1/2  hr.  more  reach  the  village  of  'Ain  Jurfu.  We  then  ascend  to  the 
(1/4  hr.)  tableland,  which  is  planted  with  vineyards.  After  20  min.  we 
reach  H4sbeiya  (p.  287). 

From  Baniyas  we  ride  to  'Ain  er-Bthdn,  1  hr. ;  near  this  spring 
is  the  weli  of  Sheikh  'Othmdn  el-Haz-dri.  The  slopes  of  Hermon 
abound  with  water,  but  the  paths  are  had,  being  covered  with  blocks 
of  basalt.  In  ascending  we  keep  the  castle  in  view  until  (56  min.), 
beyond  the  top  of  the  hill,  we  descend  into  a  valley.    We  then  cross 


am^^*xs^swl^Si 


262   Route  33. 


KAFR  HAWAR. 


From  Safed 


(18  miu.)  a  small  valley  where  there  is  a  mill  in  a  plantation  of 
silver  poplars.  This  belongs  to  the  Druse  village  of  Mejdel  esh-Shems, 
which  lies  behind  the  hill  to  the  left  and  soon  comes  in  sight 
(18  min.). 

The  road  now  becomes  fatiguing,  for  volcanic  rocks  begin  to  pre- 
dominate. Myrtles  appear  for  the  first  time.  The  road  ascends  to 
the  (55  min.)  lofty  plain  of  Merj  el-Hadr,  which  is  partly  culti- 
vated, and  in  May  yields  a  beautiful  flora.  On  the  left  rises  the 
bare  Mt.  Hermon,  where  fields  of  snow  of  some  extent,  particularly 
in  the  clefts  of  the  rocks,  are  seen  as  late  as  the  end  of  May.  We 
(40  min.)  reach  a  point  commanding  the  first  view  of  the  great  plain 
bounded  by  Anti-Libanus  on  theW.,  which  on  sunny  days  appears 
like  a  vast  blue  sea.  The  plain  of  Damascus  is  separated  from  that 
of  the  Hauran  by  the  Jebel  el-Amxtd  (black  mountain),  which  rises 
to  the  E.  of  our  standpoint.  The  extensive  mountain-range  of  the 
Hauran  rises  before  us.  In  the  plain  below  is  seen  the  village  of 
El-Kuneitra  (p.  263).  After  1  hi.  we  leave  the  basalt  district  and 
in  20  min.  reach  the  large  -village  of  Beit  Join,  situated  between 
steep  rocky  slopes,  in  which  are  several  rock-tombs.  We  follow 
the  course  of  the  beautiful  Nahr  el-Jenndni  (a  tributary  of  the  Nahr 
el-Afwaj,  p.  161),  past  the  mills  and  through  plantations  of  the  silver 
poplar,  a  tree  which  forms  a  characteristic  feature  of  the  environs 
of  Damascus,  and  is  largely  used  for  building  purposes.  After 
25  min.  we  leave  the  valley  and  ride  across  an  undulating  country 
more  to  the  N. ;  to  the  right,  below,  lies  El-Mezra'a,  while  the  snowy 
summit  of  Hermon  presides  over  the  scene  on  the  left.  The  road 
passes  (48  min.)  the  village  of  Hineh  on  the  left,  and  (IV2  nr0 
reaches  Kafr  Hawar,  the  usual  halting-place  between  Baniyas  and 
Damascus.  The  village  is  inhabited  by  Muslims  and  contains  (on 
the  W.  side)  the  ruins  of  a  small  square  temple  of  the  Roman  period. 
The  interior  (which  is  empty)  must  be  approached  through  the  hut 
in  front.  By  the  house  above  the  waterfall  on  the  hill  we  obtain  a 
fine  view  of  the  plain,  particularly  of  the  region  of  Sarsaf  (p.  263). 

We  next  cross  the  Wddi  'Ami  (10  min.)  and  pass  (10  min.) 
Beitlma,  which  lies  on  the  hill  to  the  left.  The  watch-tower  near 
Beitima  was,  perhaps,  originally  a  temple  of  the  Druses.  Our  route 
crosses  (Ihr.)  the  Nahr  Barbar  (p.  151)  and  next  reaches  (l^hr.)^- 
Katand,  a  Turkish  telegraph-station  and  village  surrounded  by 
orchards  (not  to  be  confounded  with  the  Katana  mentioned  at  p.  263). 
There  is  a  carriage-road  from  this  point  to  Damascus.  The  road 
passes  (2  hrs.)  Mu'addamtyeh,  which  lies  to  the  right,  and  enters 
vineyards.  The  capabilities  of  the  soil  of  the  plain  of  Damascus, 
when  properly  irrigated,  are  already  apparent  iiere.  To  the  left 
are  the  hills  of  Kalabat  el-Mezzeh.  The  road  soon  reaches  (^  nr- ) 
the  orchards  (p.  296),  then  (1  hr. )  Kafr  Susa,  and  (20  min.)  the 
gate  of  Damascus  (p.  294). 


to  Damascus. 


EL-KUNEITRA. 


33.  Eoute. 


263 


From  Safed  to  Damascus  via  El-Kuneitra. 

20-21  hrs. ;  Jordan  Bridge,  3  hrs. ;  El-Kuneitra,  5  hrs. ;  Damasms,  12'/2  hrs. 

From  Safed  (p.  254)  the  route  descends  to  the  N.E.,  and  enters  the 
Wddi  Fir'iin.  After  l'/s  hr.  we  cross  the  road  leading  from  Khdn  Jubb 
Y&sufiy.  253)  to  Bdniyds.  In  '/4  hr.  we  reach  the  ruins  of  El-Katand  (not  the 
same  as  that  mentioned  at  p.  262),  in  1  hr.  the  point  where  the  descent 
into  the  deeper  part  of  the  Jordan  valley  begins,  and  in  1/4  hr.  more  the  — 

Jisr  Benat  Ya'kub  (Khdn,  with  cafe),  which  crosses  the  Jordan,  here 
about  80  ft.  in  width  and  42  ft.  below  the  level  of  the  Mediterranean,  in 
three  arches.  It  is  constructed  of  basalt  and  probably  antedates  the  middle 
of  the  10th  century.  —  The  name,  'Bridge  of  the  Daughters  of  Jacob', 
probably  dates  from  the  time  when  the  Jews  were  doing  their  utmost 
to  fix  the  scenes  of  their  sacred  history  in  Galilee,  viz.  during  the  later 
period  of  the  prosperity  of  Tiberias.  Jacob  is  said  to  have  once  crossed 
the  Jordan  here  (Gen.  xxxii.  22).  Another  explanation  asserts  that  some 
Jacobin  nuns  were  killed  here  during  the  Crusades.  From  time  imme- 
morial a  ford  across  the  Jordan  has  been  here  on  the  great  caravan  route, 
the  Via  Maris  of  the  middle  ages,  connecting  Egypt  with  Damascus  and 
the  regions  of  the  Euphrates.  The  point  was,  moreover,  of  strategical 
importance.  King  Baldwin  III.  was  defeated  here  by  Nureddin.  In  1178 
Baldwin  IV.  built  a  castle  to  defend  the  bridge,  and  committed  it  to  the 
custody  of  the  Templars,  but  it  was  taken  by  storm  by  Saladin  in  the 
following  year.  The  slight  remains  of  this  castle  are  to  be  seen  1/4  hr. 
below  the  bridge.  In  1799  the  French  penetrated  as  far  as  this  point.  — 
The  present  bridge  was  last  repaired  by  Je/.zar  Pasha  (p.  230). 

The  banks  are  bordered  with  oleanders,  zakkum  (p.  128),  papyrus,  and 
other  kinds  of  bushes  and  reeds.  Beyond  the  Jordan  begins  the  district 
of  J6ldn,  the  ancient  Gaulanilis,  named  after  the  city  of  Golan,  which 
belonged  to  Manasseh  (Josh.  xx.  8;  1  Chron.  vi.  71).  This  region,  which 
extended  to  the  Hierouiyces  (Sherirat  el-Menadireh,  p.  159),  and  formed 
part  of  Peruea.  belonged  to  the  tetrarchy  of  Philip.  —  On  Jdldn,  compare 
Schumacher,  'The  Jaulan'  (London,  1883). 

Arrived  at  the  top  of  the  steep  left  bank  of  the  Jordan  (20  min.),  we 
enjoy  a  fine  view  ;  on  the  left  is  the  village  of  Dabdra.  After  D/4  hr.  we  pass 
the  ruined  village  of  Nu'ardn.  Here  the  Hauran  road  diverges  to  the  right. 
The  Damascus  road  brings  us  (1  hr.  5  min.)  to  the  ruins  of  Kafr  Naffdkh, 
where  oak-shrubs  begin.  In  40  min.  we  reach  the  Tell  Abu'l-Khamir  (boar 
hill),  which  we  leave  to  the  right.  On  the  right  (40  min.)  we  observe  a 
cistern,  and  farther  on,  the  Tell  Abu  Yusuf  and  several  Circassian  villages; 
to  the  left  is  the  Tell  Abu'n-Nedd.    In  a  little  more  than  1  hr.  we  reach  — 

El-Kuneitra,  a  neatly  and  regularly  built  little  town,  situated  3300  ft. 
above  the  sea-level.  The  village  is  the  seat  of  the  government  of  J6ldn 
(see  above;  a  Kadfi  of  the  Liwa  of  the  Ilauran)  and  has  1300  inhabitants, 
mostly  Circassians.  International  Telegraph.  Little  is  left  of  the  ancient 
village.  This  is  the  best  place  on  the  route  for  spending  the  night.  Trav- 
ellers are  cautioned  against  sleeping  in  the  open  air,  as  heavy  dews  fall 
here.     An  ancient  Roman  road  leads  hence  to  Baniyas. 

Beyond  El-Kuneitra  we  travel  towards  the  K.E.  Here  begins  the  district 
of  Jeiddr,  strictly  so  called,  which  is  also  noted  for  its  pastures;  to  the  right, 
in  the  distance,  rises  the  isolated  Tell  Jldra.  The  khan  of  El-Khureibeh 
is  passed  on  the  left,  ca.  2'/«  hrs.  farther  on;  the  Tell  Dubbeh  (25  min.)  also 
remains  to  the  left,  and  we  now  enter  the  forest  of  Shakkdra.  We  next 
cross  (2  hrs.)  the  brook  Mxtghanniyeh  by  a  bridge,  and  descend  to  (1  hr.) 
Sa'su',  situated  on  the  water-course  of  the  Wddi  el-Jenndni  (p.  262),  at  the 
foot  of  an  isolated  hill.  We  cross  O/2  hr.)  the  'Ami,  pass  (l1/?  hr.)  a 
khan,  and  reach  (D/2  hr.)  the  village  of  KQkab,  which  lies  between  two 
hills  of  the  Jebel  el-Aswad.  We  next,  reach  (JU/j  hr.)  Ddreiya  (railway 
station,  see  p.  156)  and  (1  hr.)  El-Kadem,  20  min.  beyond  which  is  the 
S.  end  of  the  Meidan  Suburb  (p.  3(39)  of  Damascus. 


&%&&j?i^*3*vKg*  ■6»i-a'W?>i7*f; ■   *<i  ■*$.♦  »&**>  ■■  '1B^' 


264 


34.  From  Haifa  to  Beirut  by  Land  via  Tyre  and  Sidon. 

From  Haifa  to  Tyre-,  a  ride  of  about  10  hrs. ;  from  Tyre  to  Sidon,  about 
7  hrs.  (carriage-road  under  construction);  from  Sidon  to  BeirOt,  7'/2  hrs. 
on  horseback,  5  hrs.  by  carriage,  including  stop  at  Sa'dtyeh  (p.  274),  where 
simple  refreshments  are  to  be  had  at  the  coffee-houses.  Carriages  stand 
in  front  of  the  hotel  at  Sidon  (p.  271).  Regular  carriage-service,  starting 
twice  daily  (fare,  1  mejidi  each  person). 

History.  The  ancient  Phoenicia  extended  from  the  Eleutheros  (Nahr 
el-Kebir,  p.  351)  on  the  N.  to  Jaffa  (later  to  D6r,  p.  231)  on  the  S.  It  was 
a  narrow  but  fertile  strip  of  land,  with  some  ports  suitable  for  small 
vessels,  promontories,  and  islands  such  as  the  Phoenicians  were  fond  of 
colonizing.  Farther  inland  the  Phoenicians  had  but  few  possessions. 
Laish  (p.  259)  was  one  of  these.  The  origin  of  the  name  Phoenician,  used 
by  the  later  Greeks,  is  uncertain.  Both  Homer  and  the  Old  Testament 
(Oen.  x.  19)  style  the  Phoenicians  'Sidonians'  from  the  name  of  their  most 
important  town.  They  were  among  the  first  immigrants  of  Canaanitish  stock 
to  enter  the  country  from  Arabia  (p.  lxxv).  Classical  authors  state  that  the 
Phoenicians  migrated  from  the  Erythraean  Sea  (according  to  Herodotus  = 
Persian  Gulf)  to  the  E.  coast  of  the  Mediterranean.  They  were  in  the 
highest  degree  skilful  and  able  merchants;  the  commercial  intercourse 
between  the  East  and  the  countries  on  the  coasts  of  the  Mediterranean 
was  in  their  hands  (comp.  Kzekiel  xxvii).  All  along  the  Mediterranean, 
and  even  beyond  Gibraltar,  they  established  commercial  agencies  and 
colonies.  The  principal  articles  of  their  commerce  were  precious  stones, 
metals,  glass-ware,  costly  textiles,  and  especially  purple  robes  and  artistic 
objects  of  daily  use.  They  were  also  slave-dealers.  They  taught  other 
nations  the  art  of  ship-building,  and  even  ventured  to  circumnavigate 
Africa.  To  them  is  due  not  the  invention,  but  the  dissemination  of  the 
Semitic  alphabet,  the  mother  of  all  our  western  alphabets.  They  also 
transmitted  a  knowledge  of  Babylonian  art  and  religion,  mathematics, 
weights,  and  measures  to  other  nations.  They  thus  exerted  a  great  in- 
fluence on  the  intellectual  culture  of  the  West,  though  in  art  they  were 
noted  for  technical  skill  rather  than  for  depth  or  originality. 

The  religion  of  the  Phoenicians  was  a  pronounced  polytheism.  The 
general  appellation  of  a  male  deity  was  El  (god),  Ba'al  (lord;  Greek, 
Be'os),  or  ilelek  (king;  the  Biblical  Moloch),  while  a  female  deity  was 
termed  Ba'alat  (Greek,  Beltis)  or  Astart.  These  terms  were  misunder- 
stood by  the  Greeks  as  applying  to  individual  gods.  One  series  of  Phoe- 
nician deities  are  'nature-gods',  such  as  Ba'alShaman,  the  'Lord  of  the 
Sky',  who  had  numerous  temples,  and  his  feminine  counterpart  'Astarte 
of  the  Sky'.  The  symbolic  representation  of  the  latter  with  cow's  horns 
and  the  solar  disk  led  the  Greeks  to  confuse  her  with  the  goddess  of  the 
moon,  while  they  also  regarded  Baral-Shaman  as  the  sun-god.  Another 
nature-god  was  Eshmun,  the  god  of  vitalizing  warmth,  whom  the  Greeks 
called  Asklepios  (./Esoulapius)  as  the  god  of  life  and  healing.  The  most 
widely  known  cult  of  the  Phoenicians  was  that  of  AdoDis  (Adorn  =  lord), 
which  spread  over  the  whole  of  Asia  Minor  but  had  its  chief  home  in 
Byblos.  Philo  of  Byblos  (see  p.  334),  who  professed  to  have  drawn  his 
information  from  an  old  Phoenician  writer  Sanchuniathon,  narrates  the 
myth  as  follows:  El,  the  supreme  god,  wanders  over  the  earth  and  leaves 
Byblos  to  his  wife  Ba'allis.  Eliun  (Adonis)  becomes  her  companion  and  is 
killed  by  El,  or,  according  to  another  version,  by  a  boar  (comp.  p.  336). 
The  mourning  for  the  slain  Adonis  was  one  of  the  principal  religious 
ceremonies  in  Byblos.  It  was  paramount!}'  with  thin  cult  that  orgies 
were  connected.  Astarte-Ba'altis  is  the  goddess  of  fertility,  her  lover  is 
the  god  of  spring;  hence  the  myth  symbolizes  the  alternation  of  life  and 
death  in  nature.  It  goes  back  as  far  as  Babylon  (Istar  and  Thammuz) 
and  is  also  adopted  by  Greek  mythology  (Venus  and  Adonis).  —  In  de- 
tails the  worship  of  the  Phoenicians  had  many  points  of  similarity  with 
that  of  the  Hebrews,    particularly   as   regards  sacrifices.     The  Phoenician 


PHOENICIA. 


34.  Route.  265 


language  and  alphabet  were  closely  allied  to  those  of  the  Hebrews.  The 
language  was  gradually  supplanted  by  the  Greek,  although  it  maintained 
its  ground  in  North  Africa  till  the  4th  or  5th  cent.  A.D.  —  Nothing  of 
the  Phoenician  literature  has  been  handed  down  to  us  except  a  few  frag- 
ments translated  into  Greek  (Sanchuniathon).  Many  Phoenician  inscrip- 
tions and  coins,  however,  are  still  extant,  although,  curiously  enough, 
Phoenicia  itself  has  hitherto  yielded  much  fewer  inscriptions  than  the 
Phoenician  colonies,  especially  those  of  N.  Africa,  Athens,  Marseilles,  etc. 

With  regard  to  the  earliest  History  of  (he  Phoenician  Towns  we  possess 
only  fragmentary  accounts  from  Menandcr.  Their  kings,  who  professed 
to  be  descended  from  the  gods,  had  a  council,  probably  from  the  noble 
families,  to  advise  them;  and  the  voice  of  the  ordinary  citizen  was  also 
not  devoid  of  influence.  It  would  seem  that  Tyre  and  Sidon  originally 
formed  one  community,  and  the  Tyrians  called  themselves  by  the  name 
of  the  old  metropolis  Sidon.  The  Phoenicians  strove  by  repeated  rebellions 
to  protect  themselves  from  incorporation  with  the  Babylonian -Assyrian 
empire.  The  Phoenician  towns  were  raised  to  a  high  degree  of  prosperity 
by  the  alliance  which  united  Tyre,  Sidon,  and  Aradus,  with  a  federal  seat 
in  'Tripolis'  under  the  suzerainty  of  Persia.  They  furnished  a  powerful 
contingent  to  the  fleet  of  the  Persian  monarchs.  But  at  that  time,  too, 
they  more  than  once  gave  evidence  of  their  love  of  independence.  After 
the  conquest  of  Phoenicia  by  Alexander  the  Phoenician  towns  still  enjoyed 
a  certain  amount  of  prosperity;  but  the  foundation  of  Alexandria  did  much 
to  guide  the  commerce  of  the  world  into  fresh  channels. 

Literature:  Kenriei;  'History  and  Antiquities  of  Phoenicia',  1855;  Renan, 
'Mission  de  Phenicie',  1864-74;  E.  Meyer^s  'Phoenicia',  in  Cheyne  &  Black's 
Encyclopsedia  Biblica,  1899-1903;  Ratnlinson,  'History  of  Phoenicia',  1889; 
Landau,  'Die  Phonizier',  Leipzig,  1901;  Perrot  &  Chipiez,  'Histoire  de  l'Art 
dans  l'Antiquito'  (Vol.  Ill;  1885);  'Corpus  Inscriptionum  Semiticarnm', 
Paris,  1881-90  (Vol.  I).  For  the  inscriptions,  comp.  Lidzbarski's  'Hand- 
buch  der   nordscmitischen  Epigraphik'. 

From  Haifa  to  Tyre.  From  Haifa  to  Acre  (2'/2  hrs.),  see  p.  228. 
Outside  the  gate  of  Acre,  and  beyond  the  fortifications,  we  turn  to 
the  left  and  ascend  slightly;  to  the  right,  in  the  direction  of  the 
mountains ,  are  the  villages  of  El-Judeideh ,  El-Mekr ,  and  Kafr 

Yasif.  We  leave  (20  min.)  the  village  of  Bakhjeh  on  the  right 
and  pass  under  an  arch  of  the  aqueduct.  After  */2  nr-  the  roa(i 
crosses  the  Wddi  es-Semtrlyeh  by  a  bridge  and  in  20  min.  more 
reaches  the  village  of  that  name,  probably  the  ancient  Shimron- 
Meron  (Josh.  xii.  20),  and  the  Casale  Somelaria  Templi  of  the 
Crusaders.  The  country  is  richly  cultivated.  On  the  right  lie  the 
villages  of  El-Kuweikdt,  'Amka,  Sheikh  Damun,  Sheikh  Ddiid,  El- 
Kahiueh,  and  El-Kabtreh,  at  the  last  of  which  the  aqueduct  begins. 
Towards  the  N.  the  white  rocks  of  Itas  en-Nakura  (p.  266)  be- 
come more  conspicuous.  We  cross  (4  min.)  a  water-course  and 
pass  the  (12  min.)  Wddi  el-Mejuneh.  The  village  of  El-Mezra'a 
remains  on  the  right.  After  18  min.  we  reach  the  bridge  over  the 
Nahr  Mefshuh.  After  37  min.  we  turn  to  the  left  and  in  */4  hr. 
(2l/2  hrs.  from  Acre)  reach  Ez-Zib.  The  village,  which  stands  on 
a  heap  of  de'bris,  was  the  ancient  Achtib  (Josh.  xix.  29;  Judges  I. 
31)  and  the  classical  Ecdippa  (interesting  ruins).  To  the  N.  of 
Ez-Zib  we  cross  the  Wddi  el-Karn  (Ilerdawll)  and  (35  min.)  the 

Wddi  Karkara.  After  10  min.  we  see  (on  the  right )  Vim  Meshcrfch, 
perhaps  the  ancient  Misrephoth- Maim  (Josh.  xi.  8).    To  the  right 


pi 


266 


Route  3d. 


HAS  EL-ABYAD. 


From  Haifa 


lies  the  village  of  El-Bassa.  The  chain  of  the  Jebel  el-Mushakkah 
here  approaches  the  coast. 

We  now  ascend  the  steep  rocks  of  the  Has  en-Nakura.  a  spur 
of  this  range,  by  a  fair  road.  According  to  Josephus  (Bell.  Jud.,  ii. 
10,  2),  it  is  identical  with  the  Scala  Tyriorum.  Its  extremity 
( 13  miu.)  affords  an  excellent  view.  Towards  the  S.  we  obtain  a 
last  glimpse  of  the  great  plain  of  Acre  and  of  Carmel.  On  the  coast 
to  the  left,  below  us,  are  remains  of  an  old  watch-tower,  or  tower 
of  customs.  The  road  then  crosses  the  cliff  and  leads  inland.  The 
hard  rock  contains  numerous  fossil  starfish.  We  next  cross  (35  min. ) 
a  valley,  beyond  which  Tyre,  4  hrs.  distant,  comes  in  sight.  To 
the  right  on  the  hill  is  Kal'at  Shem'a,  a  castle  probably  of  recent 
origin.  After  l/%  hr.  more  we  perceive  the  Khan  en-Ndkura,  where 
there  is  a  good  spring  (Arabian  fare  may  also  be  obtained).  By  the 
spring  are  Arabic  inscriptions  of  Melik  ez-Zahir,  who  had  the  road 
repaired  in  1294.  By  a  water-course  on  the  right  we  pass  (22  min.) 
the  ruins  of  Umm  el-'Am&d  (or  'Awamid),  where  there  is  a  kind 
of  acropolis  with  remains  of  columns,  the  Ionic  capitals  of  which 
belong  to  a  good  Greek  period  of  art.  The  older  name  of  the  place 
seems  to  have  been  Turdn.  Phoenician  inscriptions,  sphinxes,  and 
rudely  executed  figures  have  also  been  discovered  here.  The  brook 
which  falls  into  the  sea  here  comes  from  Hamul,  which  is  supposed 
by  some  to  be  the  ancient  Hammon  (Josh.  xix.  28).  After  10  min. 
a  column  is  passed  on  the  roadside,  and  on  the  right  are  rock- 
tombs.  After  32  min.,  on  the  right,  are  the  ruins  and  spring  of 
Islcanderiineh.  On  the  hills  to  the  E.  lies  Kal'at  Shem'a  (see  above), 
about  1  hr.  distant;  nearer  are  Tell  ed-Daba'  and  Tell  Irmid,  form- 
ing a  complete  girdle  of  ancient  fortifications. 

lskanderuneh  is  the  ancient  Alexandroskene,  so  named  from  Alexander 
Severus,  in  whose  and  Caracalla's  reigns  the  road  was  constructed.  At 
a  later  time  the  work  was  attributed  to  Alexander  the  Great.  In  1116 
Baldwin  I.  restored  the  fortifications,  with  a  view  to  attack  Tyre  from 
this  point.     The  place  was  then  called  Scandarium  or  Sccmdalium. 

Beyond  Iskanderuneh  the  path ,  which  is  partly  hewn  in  the 
rock,  crosses  the  Has  el-Abyad,  the  Promontorium  Album  of  Pliny, 
so  called  from  its  hard  white  clay,  containing  a  few  streaks  only  of 
dark  pebbles.  Halfway  up  we  see  on  the  right  the  Bur)  el-Beyddeh 
(a  modern  watch-tower);  on  the  left  is  a  precipice  of  nearly  200  ft. 
At  the  top  (40  min. )  stands  the  Khan  el-Hamrd,  probably  an  an- 
cient watch-tower.  The  descent  is  difficult.  The  road  is  ancient, 
and  waggon-ruts  in  the  stone  are  still  traceable.  At  the  end  of  the 
pass  are  some  artificial  grottoes  on  a  level  with  the  sea.  On  a  hill 
to  the  right  are  the  ruins  of  Shibenyeh.  Farther  distant  are  Biyud 
es-Seid  and  El- Ezzlyeh.  After  */2  hr.  we  cross  the  Wddi  el-Ezzlyeh 
near  an  ancient  bridge,  beyond  which  we  see  the  village  of  Kleileh 
(p.  269)  on  the  right.  We  next  cross  (20  min.)  the  Nahr  el-MansHra 
near  the  village  of  Deir  Kdnun  (p.  269),  and  pass  (25  min.  )  /Ms 
el-'Ain  (p.  267),  from  which  Tyre  is  reached  in  1  hr. 


Dr«no\  ewgi-avei  A  printed  \ry 


Wagner  *  Detiea.  leip 


to  Bcir&t. 


TYRE. 


34.  Route. 


267 


The  octagonal  chief  reservoir  of  Has  el-'Ain  is  situated  10  min.  from 
the  sea.  In  order  to  raise  the  water  to  the  height  of  the  aqueduct  thick 
walls  over  24  ft.  high  have  been  constructed  around  the  spring.  The 
sides  are  of  unequal  length,  and  of  different  ages.  In  the  interior  it  is 
lined  with  cement.  The  sugar-cane  was  grown  in  the  vicinity,  and  mul- 
berry-trees are  now  planted  in  considerable  numbers.  This  reservoir  was 
connected  by  an  aqueduct  with  three  smaller  pools  situated  10  min.  to 
the  N.,  close  to  the  Tell  er-Rethidiyeh.  The  reservoirs  are  probably  all  of 
the  Roman  period.  In  the  middle  ages  they  were  ascribed  to  Solomon 
(on  the  authority  of  Song  of  Sol.  iv.  15).  An  Arabian  aqueduct  with 
pointed  arches  runs  towards  the  sea.  The  main  body  of  water  was  carried 
to  the  Tell  el-Ma'shuk  (p.  269). 

Tyre.  —  Accommodation  at  the  Latin  Monasters'  (see  pp.  xvi,  xvii). 

Turkish  Post  and  Telegraph  Office. 

Tyre,  now  called  /Stir,  is  an  unimportant  town,  with  about  6000 
inhab.,  ca.  2700  of  whom  are  Muslims  and  2500  Latin  Christians 
and  United  Catholics.  It  is  the  seat  of  a  Kaimmakam  and  of  a 
United  Greek  archbishop.  The  Muslims  have  primary  and  secondary 
schools  for  boys  here.  The  Franciscans  and  the  Sisters  of  St.  Joseph 
have  convents  and  schools;  the  United  and  the  Orthodox  Greeks 
also  maintain  schools.  The  'British  Syrian  Mission'  has  schools  for 
boys  and  girls,  one  for  the  blind,  and  Sunday-schools.  The  trade 
of  Tyre  has  been  almost  entirely  diverted  to  Beirut,  but  it  still 
exports  cotton,  tobacco,  and  mill-stones  from  the  Hauran. 

According  to  Phoenician  and  Greek  tradition,  Tyre  is  a  very  ancient 
city,  and  with  it  are  associated  many  interesting  old  myths.  Astarte  is 
said  to  have  been  born,  and  Melkart  to  have  reigned  here;  and  the  Tyrians 
are  credited  with  the  development  of  agriculture,  the  production  of  wine, 
and  many  important  inventions.  The  ancient  and  the  present  name  is  Stir, 
after  which  the  Romans  sometimes  called  the  purple-shell  'Sarranus  murex'. 
The  oldest  part  (Palaetyrus)  of  the  town  lay  on  the  mainland.  On  two 
bare  rocky  islands  off  the  coast  lay  the  seaport  with  its  warehouses.  Hiram 
(see  below)  extended  the  E.  part  of  the  island  next  to  the  mainland,  and 
conducted  water  to  it ;  he  also  connected  the  smaller,  more  westerly, 
island  with  the  larger  by  means  of  an  embankment.  Excavations  made 
here  tend  to  show  that  the  smaller  island,  on  which  stood  a  temple  to  a 
god  called  Zeus  by  the  Greeks,  lay  at  the  S.W.  end  of  the  larger,  and 
still  exists  in  connection  with  it,  as  in  ancient  times.  On  the  larger  island 
lay  the  so-called  old  town,  with  the  royal  palace,  the  shrine  of  Agenor 
Baal,  the  temple  of  Astarte,  the  forum,  and  the  bazaar.  On  the  highest 
ground  (behind  the  modern  Serai  erected  by  Ibrahim  Pasha)  probably 
stood  the  temple  of  Jlelkaxt,  the  central  sanctuary.  This  island  was,  there- 
fore, Tyre's  most  cherished  possession  (comp.  Ezek.  xxviii.  2).  The 
dominions  of  the  princes  of  Tyre  extended  as  far  as  Lebanon.  Hiram,  the 
son  of  Abibaal,  furnished  Solomon  with  cedar  and  fir  wood  for  the  build- 
ing of  the  Temple  (1  Kings  v.  8),  as  he  had  already  sent  carpenters  and 
masons  to  assist  in  the  building  of  David's  palace  (2  Sam.  v.  11),  and  for 
this  service  Solomon  ceded  to  him  the  Galilsean  district  of  Cabul  with 
twenty  cities  (1  Kings  ix.  11).  The  luxury  of  the  great  mercantile  city 
contrasted  strongly  with  the  simple  habits  of  the  Israelites  (comp.  Ezekiel 
xxvi-xxviii  and  Isaiah  xxiii).  After  a  siege  of  thirteen  years  Nebuchad- 
nezzar made  a  treaty  with  Ithobaal  of  Tyre  about  the  year  B.C.  576.  The 
Tyrians  furnished  the  Persians  with  a  large  fleet,  and  Alexander  was, 
therefore,  especially  anxious  to  destroy  the  power  of  the  city.  Palsetyrus 
was  still  a  very  large  town  at  that  period,  and  some  authorities  state  that 
it  extended  6  M.,  from  the  present  Nahr  el-Kasimiyeh  on  the  N.  to  Ras 
el-'Ain  on  the  S.  Alexander  is  said  to  have  destroyed  Paleetyrus  entirely, 
and  to  have  used  the  building  materials  in  the  construction  of  his  cel- 
ebrated embankment,  65  yds.  wide   and  V«  M>  long,  by  means  of  which 


Route  34. 


- 


H 


TYRE. 


From  Haifa 


he  wag  enabled  to  approach  the  island-city  (see  below).  The  siege  lasted 
seven  months.  The  island-city  was  not  entirely  destroyed,  and  17  years 
later,  in  the  time  of  the  Ptolemies,  it  resisted  the  attacks  of  Antigonus 
for  15  months.  —  The  district  of  Tyre  and  Sidon  was  afterwards  visited 
by  Christ  (Mark  vii.  24).  A  Christian  community  sprang  up  here  at  an 
early  period,  and  St.  Paul  spent  seven  days  at.  Tyre  (Acts  xxi.  3,  4).  The 
town  then  became  the  seat  of  a  bishop,  and  it  is  called  by  St.  Jerome  the 
first  and  greatest  city  of  Phoenicia.  Even  in  the  middle  ages  Tyre  was  a 
place  of  some  consequence,  and  was  regarded  as  well-nigh  impregnable.  In 
1124  the  Crusaders,  favoured  by  the  dissensions  of  the  Arabian  governors 
of  the  city,  succeeded  in  capturing  the  place.  Saladin  besieged  the  city 
unsuccessfully.  In  1190  Frederick  Barbarossa  was  buried  here  (p.  269). 
After  the  fall  of  Acre  in  1291  (p.  230)  the  Franks,  who  had  been  in  posses- 
sion of  the  town  for  167  years,  were  at  last  compelled  to  surrender  it.  It. 
was  then  destroyed  by  the  Muslims.  Since  that  period  Tyre  has  never 
recovered  any  of  its  ancient  importance,  although  Fakhreddin  (p.  278) 
endeavoured  to  restore  it. 

The  present  town  lies  at  the  N.  end  of  the  former  island 
(p.  267),  which  lay  in  a  long  line  parallel  with  the  mainland.  A 
few  palms  and  the  view  of  the  mountain-slopes  lend  some  pictur- 
esqueness  to  the  scene.  The  island  still  has  an  area  of  about  125 
acres,  being  almost  as  extensive  as  in  ancient  times,  when  it  afforded 
space  for  about  25,000  inhabitants.  The  W.  and  S.  sides  of  the  is- 
land are  now  used  as  arable  land  and  burial-grounds.  The  large 
Embankment  of  Alexander  (see  p.  267),  which  probably  started  from 
a  natural  promontory  and  crossed  a  shallow  strait,  has  been  widened 
by  deposits  of  sand,  and  the  long  neck  of  land  is  now,  at  the  point 
where  it  leaves  the  coast,  upwards  of  1  M.,  and  where  it  reaches  the 
old  ramparts  on  the  island,  650  yds.  in  width.  —  The  course  of  an 
old  Town  Wall  is  traceable  from  the  former  S.E.  end  of  the  island 
as  far  as  a  cliff  to  the  W.S.W.  The  still  partly  distinguishable 
fortifications  of  the  Crusaders  followed  the  S.  bank;  among  their 
remains  are  the  so-called  Algerian  Tower,  situated  in  a  garden.  The 
rocky  conglomerate  of  the  bank  contains  fragments  of  glass  which 
have  been  consolidated  with  the  sand  into  a  hard  mass.  Here,  on 
the  S.  side  of  the  island,  are  a  number  of  cells,  lined  with  very 
hard  stucco,  which  may  have  been  tombs,  workshops,  or  chambers 
for  the  preparation  of  the  purple  dye  obtained  by  crushing  the  shell 
of  the  murex.  Along  the  W.  side  we  can  follow  the  ruins  of  the 
mediaeval  fortifications,  of  which  fragments  of  columns  and  other 
remains  are  visible  under  water. 

Few  other  antiquities  have  been  preserved,  and  many  of  the  old 
architectural  fragments  have  been  removed  to  Acre  and  Beirut.  — 
The  most  interesting  of  the  old  buildings  is  the  Crusaders'  Church 
(see  Plan).  The  E.  part  only  is  preserved,  and  the  three  apses  are 
built  into  the  modern  walls  of  the  town.  The  windows  are  enriched 
outside  with  a  kind  of  moulding  in  rectangular  zigzags.  The  ch.nch 
was  about  71  yds.  long  and  27  yds.  wide,  and  the  transepts  projected 
5  yds.  from  each  of  the  aisles.  In  the  interior  handsome  columns  of 
rose-coloured  granite  lie  scattered  about;  these  were  used  in  the  dec- 
oration of  the  piers,  and  were  perhaps  taken  from  some  older  building. 


to  Beirut. 


KAL'AT  KARN. 


34.  Route.    269 


The  church,  founded  by  the  Venetians  and  dedicated  to  St.  Mark,  was 
begun  in  1125  and  completed  at  the  beginning  of  the  13th  century.  It 
possibly  occupies  the  site  of  the  basilica  of  Paulinus,  which  was  conse- 
crated by  Bishop  Busebius  in  323.  The  church  is  said  to  contain  the  re- 
mains of  the  German  emperor  Frederick  Barbarossa  (d.  1190),  but  the  ex- 
cavations have  led  to  no  definite  result  as  to  the  position  of  his  tomb. 
Conrad  of  Montferrat,  who  was  murdered  in  the  church  in  1192,  was  also 
interred  here.  The  assertion  that  Origen  is  buried  here  rests  on  a  baseless 
modern  tradition. 

The  present  Harbour  occupies  the  site  of  the  'Sidoniari  or 
Northern  Harbour  of  Tyre,  and  is  only  slightly  choked  with  sand ; 
traces  of  ancient  harbour  structures  are  still  seen  here.  The  so- 
called  'Egyptian'  Harbour,  on  the  S.  side  of  the  island,  is  now 
entirely  filled  with  sand. 

The  chief  water-supply  of  Tyre  was  derived  from  the  Tell  el- 
Ma'shuk,  about  1^2  M.  to  the  E.  At  the  foot  of  the  rock  towards 
the  S.  and  S.E.  are  remains  of  large  reservoirs.  The  water  was 
conducted  to  the  hill  from  Ras  el-'Ain  (p.  267)  and  other  places 
and  then  conducted  to  the  island-city.  The  conduits  above  ground 
are  less  ancient  than  those  under  ground.  The  site  of  the  present 
Weli  el-Ma'shuk  was  probably  once  occupied  by  a  temple.  The 
slopes  of  the  hill  are  covered  with  ancient  ruins,  sarcophagi,  and 
oil-presses.  At  the  back  of  the  hill  lies  a  small  necropolis,  but  the 
chief  burial-place  of  Tyre  extends  over  the  whole  chain  of  hills  to 
the  E. ,  and  is  most  interesting  at  El-'Awwdtin.  Many  of  the  rock- 
tombs  have  fallen  in,  and  are  empty  and  destitute  of  inscriptions. 

The  environs  of  Tyre  towards  the  S.E.  also  abound  with  anti- 
quities. Near  the  village  of  Deir  Kdntin,  about  ^/j  hr.  to  the  S.E. 
of  Ras  el-'Ain ,  are  curious  figures  hewn  in  the  rock.  This  neigh- 
bourhood is  full  of  rock-caverns,  and  farther  on,  towards  Kleileh, 
are  numerous  burial-places  and  sarcophagi.  No  remains  of  temples 
are  to  be  found  here.  This  is  accounted  for  by  the  fact  that  the 
whole  of  the  environs  of  Tyre  were  inhabited  by  wealthy  villagers 
only,  whose  rock-cisterns,  olive-presses,  and  tombs  were  in  keeping 
with  the  condition  of  their  owners. 

From  Acre  to  Tyre  via  Kai/at  Karn,  2  days.  From  Acre  we  ride  to 
the  N.E.  in  about  2  hrs.  to  'Artika,  whence  KaVat  Karn  may  be  reached 
in  about  3  hrs.  (guide  necessary;  this  part  of  the'  journey  also  makes 
pleasant  walking).  The  road  passes  the  insignificant  ruin  of  Kal'at 
Jiddtn,  called  Judin  in  the  Crusaders'  time.  Kal'at  Karn,  the  Moris 
Fortis  of  the  Crusaders,  was  begun  in  1229  by  Hermann  von  Salza,  Grand 
Waster  of  the  Teutonic  Order.  This  'Montforv,  the  chief  possession  of  the 
order  in  Syria,  was  destroyed  by  Beibars.  The  situation  is  imposing.  The 
castle  stands  on  a  rocky  neck  of  land  between  two  valleys,  which  are 
nearly  600  ft.  in  depth.  The  rock  is  artificially  separated  from  the  hill 
towards  the  E.  by  a  moat,  out  of  which  the  building  material  was  quarried. 
The  rocky  slopes  are  rendered  inaccessible  in  many  places  by  buttresses  of 
masonry.  Along  the  N.E.  side  run  several  vaults.  On  the  N.W.  side  a 
large  gateway  is  preserved,  and  on  the  S.E.  side  another.  Near  the  latter 
is  a  kind  of  crypt  or  cistern.  The  arches  are  all  pointed.  To  the  N.W. 
stands  an  octagonal  pier,  6  ft.  in  diameter,  once  connected  with  the  walls  by 
a  series  of  eight  arches,  the  remains  of  a  former  chapel  or  hall.  —  The 
road  now  descends  the  W&di  el-Kam  to  the  (272-3  hrs.)  Christian  village 
of  El-Ilassa,  near  the  Bds  en-NdHru,  on  the  road  to  Tyre  (p.  266). 


' 


I 


270 


tfou<e  3i. 


SARAFAND. 


From  Haifa 


From  Tyre  to  Sidon.  —  The  road  skirts  the  coast;  but  turns 
inland  after  l/g  hr.  On  the  right,  are  the  villages  of  Turn  and  Bidyds. 
"We  pass  (5  min.)  'Ain  Babuk,  an  excellent  spring  on  the  left,  and 
reach  (55  min.")  the  khan  near  the  bridge  over  the  Nahr  el-Lttanl 
(p.  286),  which  is  here  called  Nahr  el-Kdsimhjeh.  The  river  is  of 
considerable  depth  at  this  point,  and  flows  hence  to  the  sea  in  a 
very  serpentine  course.  On  the  heights  above  the  khan  are  the  ruins 
of  Bur j  el-Hawd.  About  1/i  hr.  farther  inland  are  the  tombs  called 
Kubiir  el-Muluk  ('Tombs  of  the  Kings').  By  a  very  ancient  build- 
ing here  lies  a  huge,  richly-decorated  sarcophagus,  near  which  are 
others,  one  of  them  being  still  undetached  from  the  rock. 

After  25  min.,  near  a  ruined  khan  (1.),  two  white  rocks  become 
visible  to  the  right  of  the  road.  Here  are  two  curious  grottoes.  The 
walls  of  the  smaller  are  enriched  with  crosses,  and  the  other  con- 
tains a  Greek  inscription.  On  the  wall  adjoining  the  caverns  are 
triangles  and  figures,  some  of  them  of  childish  rudeness,  with  in- 
scriptions in  Greek  and  Plwenician.  (The  triangles  and  palms  were 
probably  emblems  of  the  worship  of  Astarte. )  After  20  min.  we 
cross  the  brook  Abu'l-Aswad,  leaving  a  ruined  old  bridge  on  our 
right,  and  soon  reach  a  series  of  ruins.  On  the  right,  after  22 min., 
we  see  the  Well  Nebi  Se'ir,  and  on  the  left  several  columns  near 
some  rock-tombs.  We  next  reach,  on  the  right,  (1/4  hr. )  the  village 
of  'Adlun,  probably  the  Ornilhopolis  of  Strabo. 

In  the  shelving  side  of  the  projecting  hill  is  a  large  Necropolis,  ex- 
tending to  the  sea,  and  consisting  chiefly  of  chambers,  6  ft.  square,  with 
tombs  on  three  sides,  of  the  post-Christian  period.  On  the  left  of  the  road 
is  a  larger  cavern,  called  the  Mvghdret  el-Bezeiz,  and  n,  little  to  the  N.-  of 
it  an  Egyptian  'stele'.  There  is  a  handsome  rock-hewn  basin  near  the  sea. 
Alongside  of  the  road  lie  tombs,  cisterns,  and  oil-presses. 

On  the  right  we  soon  see  the  village  of  El-Ansdrhjeh,  and  then 
cross  (38  min.)  the  Nahr  Haisardni.  Near  the  village  of  Es- 
Seksekiyeh  are  caverns  with  paintings  and  other  antiquities.  To  the 
left,  after  22  min.,  we  see  more  ruins,  and  to  the  right,  on  the  hill, 
the  village  of  Sarafand,  the  ancient  Zarephath  (1  Kings  xvii.  9),  the 
Sarepta  of  the  New  Testament  (Luke  iv.  26).  The  Crusaders  founded 
an  episcopal  see  here.  A  chapel  once  stood  on  the  spot  where  Elijah 
is  said  to  have  lived,  but  has  been  displaced  by  the  Weli  el-Khidr. 
On  the  old  harbour  are  traces  of  ancient  buildings,  and  to  the  N. 
of  this  point  are  numerous  rock-tombs. 

Sidon  now  soon  comes  in  sight.  We  pass  (1/4  hr.)  the  spring 
'Ain  el-Kantara,  and  cross  (18  min.)  the  Wddi  el-'Akbhjeh.  Below 
us,  on  the  coast,  stands  the  old  tower  of  Bur)  el-Khidr.  We  next 
cross  (13  min.)  the  Nahr  el-Jesarhjeh,  near  a  ruined  bridge.  The 
water-courses  are  overgrown  with  oleanders.  Near  the  (9  min.) 
Nahr  el-'Adastyeh  are  the  Tell  and  Khan  el-Burdk,  with  a  good 
spring  and  gardens.  Traversing  sand,  we  next  come  to  (18  min.) 
the  brook  of  Ez-Zaherdnt  (the  bridge  is  modern  and  in  ruins). 
Beyond  the  (25  min.)  Wddi  et-Teish,  on  the  right,  lies  the  village 


%  a  i  R  ^Merrurcns  of aneiait  Harbour  structures  and 

fortifications.    QU    Births     10  Mosque* 
KI111  ri s :  i  Tombs  : 

aja.c<i-^c&Aff^AD2.j   SJtomZf-.s7i*ai D.2. 

ZJOi.  er-Ttutz  .  CJ).2.    ^Mohammed es-SdU       .  D.2. 

SXhJBertrand     D.2.    LTdatTUa  (Hurt  Saints)  S  2. 

itJOiiraTisawi      C.&l  8.  Barracks  D.2. 


Kala'at  el-Ba^u- 


* 


Old  Egyptian  Harbour 

Churches  : 

]      lOXatinJfonasUry  C.S. 

n.Mrronitr  Ch.  BC.5. 
|  Mosipies  : 

12.Jdma'alel-Kebcr  ABA. 

H I    i3..l3ma!adtiuJraJ!>ite/iHi-a. 

USeraz iTeleffraph.  ■  C.3. 

Gates: 

15JM*a£ofe  .  .  .  .  C.D.5. 

KMcinit  Gate  .  D.2. 

Drawn.  m#Tu»*d    *  -pruitcd   W 


K  a  1  a'a  t 
el   AUuv/.zp.h. 

-^-       J4-S  v,V 

*>■*  of  * 


.Ifocotd  ofSk?7U 


^y,;''*- 

■ 


KrctmJleTisji's'Mi.ssioTi  deXHUnicie! 


to  Beirut. 


SIDON. 


34.  Route.    271 


of  El-Ghdziyeh.  The  plain  expands.  We  then  cross  (40  min.)  tho 
broad  Nahr  Senile  (p.  273),  near  a  khan  with  a  Roman  milestone 
built  into  its  wall.  On  the  right  are  the  villages  of  Deir  Beshi  and 
Miyumtyeh.  We  soon  reach  the  gardens  of  Sidon,  cross  (20  min.) 
the  brook  Nahr  el-Baryhut,  and  (5  min.)  arrive  at  the  first  houses 
of  Sidon. 

Sidon.  —  Accommodation.  The  Arab  Hotel  des  Fleurs  provides 
lodging  only  and  not  food.  The  best  accommodation  may  be  obtained  at 
the  houses  of  the  consular  agents  and  those  of  other  Christians,  and  in 
case  of  necessity  at  the  large  French  khan  (PI.  4).  —  Tents  may  be  pitched 
in  the  Egyptian  cemetery  in  the  S.E.  part  of  the  town. 

Vice-Consulates.  Great  Britain  and  the  United  States,  Dr.  ShibliAbeila; 
Austria,  Calafago;  France,  Porlalis;  Russia,  FadOl  Rittallah. 

Turkish  Post  &  Telegraph  Office,  at  the  Serai. 

Steamers.    For  steamboat  connection  with  Beirut  and  Haifa,  see  p.  225. 

Physicians.  Dr.  Joseph  Abeila  (of  the  American  School  in  Beirut); 
Dr.  Shibli  Abeila  (of  New  York  University).  —  Chemist,  Dr.  Joseph  Abeila. 

Sidon,  now  called  Saidd,  stands,  like  most  of  the  Khoenioian 
towns,  on  a  promontory,  in  front  of  which  lies  an  island.  On  the 
landward  side,  particularly  on  the  N.,  it  is  surrounded  by  luxuriant 
orchards  and  gardens,  in  which  are  grown  oranges,  lemons,  almonds, 
apricots,  bananas,  and  palms.  Beyond  the  green  plain,  above  the 
lower  spurs,  tower  the  snowy  peaks  of  Lebanon,  the  Jebel  er-Rihan 
and  the  Tomat  Niha  (p.  292). 

The  town  now  contains  about  11,500  inhab.,  of  whom  8000  are 
Muslims,  2500  Latins  (including  the  United  Churches),  800  Jews, 
and  200  1'rotestants.  It  is  the  chief  town  of  a  Kada  and  the  residence 
of  a  Maronite  and  two  Greek  Orthodox  bishops.  It  possesses  Mus- 
lim schools  for  boys  and  girls.  The  American  Mission  (p.  276)  main- 
tains a  boys'  and  girls'  school;  the  Franciscans  have  a  monastery, 
church,  and  boys'  school;  the  Sisters  of  St.  Joseph  have  a  school 
and  orphanage;  the  Jesuits  have  a  mission-station,  with  a  church 
and  school.  The  Maronites,  the  United  Greeks,  and  the  Orthodox 
Greeks  also  maintain  schools  and  churches.  The  Alliance  Israelite 
has  also  established  a  school.  The  trade  of  the  place,  which  is 
chiefly  concerned  with  the  export  of  oranges  and  lemons,  has 
somewhat  improved  of  late  years.  In  1898  the  harbour  was  entered 
by  218  steamers,  of  38,253  tons'  burden,  and  781  sailing  ships,  of 
7831  tons. 

In  the  Homeric  poems  Sidon  is  spoken  of  as  rich  in  ore,  and  the 
Sidonians  as  experienced  in  art.  Although  Sidon  had  sent  out  colonies  at 
an  earlier  period  than  Tyre  (e.g.  Hippo,  Carthage,  etc.),  it  afterwards 
became  less  enterprising  in  this  respect  than  the  sister-city,  and  even 
seems  to  have  acknowledged  her  supremacy  (1  Kings  v.  6;  Ezek.  xxvii.  8), 
while  always  retaining  a  certain  degree  of  independence,  as  kings  of  Sidon 
are  spoken  of  (1  Kings  xvi.  31  \  Jerem.  xxv.  22).  The  Sidonians  are  said 
to  have  been  versed  in  astronomy,  arithmetic,  and  nocturnal  navigation. 
During  its  dependency  on  the  Asiatic  empire  Sidon  continued  to  be  an 
important  commercial  town.  In  consequence  of  a  revolt  against  Arta- 
xerxes  III.  Ochus  it  was  destroyed  in  the  year  351.  Afterwards  Sidon 
willingly   opened   her  gates  to  the  Greeks.     Even  in  the  Roman  period 

Baepekeb's  Palestine  and  Syria.    4th  Edit.  17 


Route  34. 


SI  DON. 


From  Haifa 


the  city  had  its  own  archons,  senate,  and  national  council.  It  was  some- 
times dignified  with  the  title  of  Nuuarchis  (mistress  of  ships),  and  was 
also  called  Colonia  Augusta  and  Metropolis.  Christianity  was  introduced 
here  at  an  early  period  (Acts  xxvii.  3),  and  a  bishop  of  Sidon  attended 
the  Council  of  Nic&a  in  325.  In  637-638  Sidon  surrendered  to  the  Muslims 
without  resistance,  as  it  was  then  in  an  enfeebled  condition.  In  the  Cru- 
saders' period  the  town  experienced  terrible  vicissitudes.  In  1107  it  pur- 
chased immunity  from  a  threatened  siege,  but  owing  to  a  breach  of  faith 
was  in  1111  besieged  and  taken  by  Baldwin  I.  In  1187,  after  the  battle 
of  Hattin,  Saladin  caused  the  town  and  its  fortifications  to  be  razed.  In 
1197  the  Crusaders  again  obtained  possession  of  the  place,  but  it  was 
once  more  destroyed  by  Melik  el-rAdil  the  same  year.  The  town  was 
rebuilt  by  the  Franks  in  1228,  again  razed  by  Eyyub  in  1249,  and  refortified 
by  Louis  IX.  in  1253.  It  was  then  purchased  by  the  Templars,  but  in 
1260  it  was  devastated  by  the  Mongols.  In  1291  Sidon  at  lenglh  came 
permanently  into  the  possession  of  the  Muslims,  and  was  razed  by  Sultan 
Ashraf.  At  the  beginning  of  the  17th  cent,  it  gradually  regained  impor- 
tance as  the  residence  of  the  Druse  Emir  FafrhrediHn  (p.  278).  The  Euro- 
peans were  favoured,  and  trade  revived.  Fakhreddin  erected  a  handsome 
palace  for  himself  and  khans  for  the  merchants,  and  the  silk-trade  became 
a  source  of  great  profit.  Sidon  was  at  that  period  the  seaport  of  Damascus. 
Even  after  the  fall  ot  the  Druse  prince  the  commerce  of  Sidon  continued 
to  thrive,  until  about  the  end  of  the  18th  century.  Vnder  the  Egyptian 
supremacy  Sidon  again  revived,  and  was  enclosed  by  a  wall.  In  1840  the 
harbour-fortress  was  destroyed  by  the  allied  European  fleet. 

The  present  town  contains  few  attractions.  The  largest  of  the 
nine  mosques,  the  Jtimi'  el-Keblr  (PI.  12),  was  formerly  a  church 
of  the  Knights  of  St.  John.  In  the  space  in  front  of  the  mosque 
once  stood  the  palace  of  Fakhreddin  (see  above),  and  it  is  now 
occupied  hy  a  Muslim  school.  To  the  S.E.  of  the  principal  squnre 
stands  the  Sertii  (PI.  14),  and  to  the  S.W.  of  it  the  mosque  of 
Abu  Nakhlch  (PI.  13),  formerly  a  church  of  St.  Michael.  To  the  N. 
of  this  is  the  Khan  Fransdivi  (PI.  4),  erected  hy  Faklireddin.  — 
To  the  S.E.  of  the  town  rises  the  citadel  of  KaL'at  el-Mu'ezzeh 
(no  admission),  standing  on  a  heap  of  rubbish,  in  which  layers  of 
the  purple-shell  are  visible. 

By  the  Khan  ed-Debbdgh  (PI.  1),  at  the  N.E.  end  of  the  town, 
a  bridge  with  8  arches  crosses  to  the  small  island  of  Kai/at  el-Bahu, 
where  there  are  ruins  of  a  Castle  (no  admission).  The  style  of  the 
present  walls,  with  the  inserted  fragments  of  columns,  as  well  as 
the  pointed  arches,  seems  to  point  to  the  13th  cent,  as  the  period 
of  its  erection.  Around  the  island,  particularly  on  the  S.W.  side, 
are  remains  of  quays  built  of  large  hewn  stones.  The  old  Northern 
Harbour  still  exists.  It  is  protected  hy  a  ledge  of  rock,  along 
which  are  strewn  remains  of  quays.  Fakhreddin  caused  the  entrance 
to  be  filled  up  in  order  to  exclude  the  Turkish  fleet.  The  blocks  of 
which  the  quays  had  been  constructed  were  then  removed  for  build- 
ing-purposes, the  consequence  of  which  is  that  the  sea  washes  over 
Iho  rocks  Into  the  harbour  in  stormy  weather.  The  broad  tongue  of 
land  which  bounds  the  harbour  on  the  "W.  also  bears  remains  of 
ancient  walls,  and  on  the  E.  side  are  two  artificial  basins  (coinp. 
Plan).  The  old  Southern  or  'Egyptian'  Harbour  was  filled  up  by 
Fakhreddin. 


Ruiying  Grounds, 
1  Foreigners'  Turbjk 

5.  Ol&Gtvek 

3.  Jfew   .    . 

4.  IsraeVti.h 

5    Latin 

6.  Moroni  ft' 

7.  Metdtrih-Ji 

8.  Mohammedan. 

9.  fit 'Stan  e> 'Annul 

10.  ,       .  cLBobbu, 

11.  .      ,  elJOmattr 

12.  ,       ,  McMiedeh 

13.  Mohamjih-Antai 
34.  Garde/voft/ieSifard 


15.  R/jmanJHilos-lonp 
10.  Spinning  Mitts 
IT.  la&6net,Mekh*dfho% 
1R.  RrmainxofanefoxB^ 
and.-  mosaic  pare. 


to  Beirut. 


SI  DON. 


3d.  lloult.   273 


The  ancient  city  of  Sidon,  which  lias  been  sadly  damaged  by 
treasure-seekers,  extended  farther  towards  the  E.  than  the  present 
town.  Here,  situated  in  the  limestone  rocks,  but  slightly  elevated 
above  the  plain,  lies  the  Necropolis  or  Sidon. 

There  are  several  different  kinds  of  Tombs:  —  (1).  Rectangular  grot- 
toes, entered  from  the  surface  of  the  earth  by  a  perpendicular  shaft  of 
10-13  ft.  in  depth  and  3-7  ft.  wide.  The  visitor  descends  by  steps  cut  in 
the  sides  of  the  shaft,  and  reaches  two  doora  leading  into  unadorned 
chambers  which  are  rarely  connected  with  each  other.  Similar  tombs 
occur  in  Egypt,  and  Kenan  considers  this  kind  the  oldest.  —  (2).  Vaulted 
grottoes  with  side-niches  for  the  sarcophagi,  or  merely  with  square  holes 
in  the  ground,  and  with  round  air-holes  communicating  with  the  surface 
of  the  ground  above.  These  are  entered  by  flights  of  steps,  and  they 
occur  chiefly  at  the  S.E.  angle  of  the  necropolis.  —  (3).  Grottoes  cemented 
with  lime,  painted  in  the  Grseco-Koman  style,  and  generally  furnished  with 
Greek  inscriptions.  Some  of  these  also  have  air-holes.  —  Grottoes  of  the 
earlier  kinds  have  sometimes  been  remodelled  in  the  later  style.  Several 
of  the  vaults  have  fallen  in,  while  others  have  long  been  filled  with  earth. 

The  Sakcophagi  are  also  in  different  styles.  The  grottoes  of  the  first 
kind  contain  marble  sarcophagi  of  the  specifically  Phoenician  style,  i.e. 
so-called  'anthropoid'  receptacles,  accurately  fitted  to  the  shape  of  the 
mummy,  which  the  Phoenicians  were  in  the  habit  of  embalming.  At  a 
later  period  the  receptacle  assumed  a  more  simple  form,  the  position  of 
the  head  only  being  indicated  by  a  narrowing  of  the  space  at  one  end. 
Sarcophagi  in  lead,  and  others  with  simple  three-edged  lids,  also  occur. 
The  sarcophagi  in  the  second  kind  of  grotto  are  generally  of  clay,  while 
those  in  the  third  kind  resemble,  baths  in  shape,  and  are  highly  decorated 
with  garlands  and  other  enrichments. 

A  visit  to  the  Necropolis  takes  half-a-day  (guide  necessary). 
The  principal  tombs  lie  to  the  S.E.  of  the  city.  We  quit  Sidon  by 
the  Acre  gate  (PI.  15),  and  in  3  min.  reach  the  Weli  Nebi  Seidiin. 
The  .lows  make  pilgrimages  to  this  weli,  which  they  call  the  Tomb 
of  Zebulon.  It  is  surrounded  by  a  wall,  and  by  it  is  a-  beautiful 
column.  After  4  min.  we  cross  the  Nahr  tl-Barghut  (p.  271).  We 
next  pas?  (2  min. )  important  burial-places  on  the  right  and  left, 
named  Mughdret  Ablun,  which  has  been  translated  'cavern  of  Apollo' 
and  perhaps  correctly,  as  figures  of  Apollo  have  been  found  here. 
The  tomb-chambers  here  contain  several  sarcophagi  and  a  few  rude 
wall-paintings.  The  basalt  sarcophagus  of  the  Sidoniau  king  Esh- 
munazar,  now  in  Paris,  was  found  in  one  of  them  in  1855.  — 
I'eyond  the  (20  min.)  Nahr  Senile  is  a  khan.  In  10  min.  more  we 
reach  Seyyidct  el-Mantara  (  view  ),  with  the  ruins  of  a  castle,  per- 
haps the  mediaeval  Franche  Garde,  the  platform  of  which  is  reached 
by  a  flight  of  steps  about  325  ft.  in  length  and  10-13  ft.  wide.  A 
grotto  a  little  to  the  S.  of  the  ruins,  now  a  chapel  of  St.  Mary,  was 
probably  once  a  temple  of  Astarte.  A  similar  temple  is  situated 
near  the  village  of  Maghdusheh,  10  min.  to  the  S. ;  the  cavern  hero 
is  called  the  Mughdret  el-Makdura,  and  contains  ati  unpleasing 
female  figure  sculptured  on  the  left  side.  Near  Mughdret  cz-Zeitun 
is  another  grotto  containing  a  medallion. 

The  tombs  to  the  K.K.  of  Sidon,  between  the  villages  of  El-Heldliyeh 
and  Baramiyeh,  have  all  been  covered  with  rubbish  again.  The  sarcophagi  dis- 
covered below  El-Helilliyeh  in  1S87  (among  them  that  assigned  by  tradition 
to  Alexander)  are  now  in  Constantinople. 


^i  i 


274   Route  31, 


SIDON. 


From  Sidon  to  Beirut.  The  road  first  leads  to  theE.  and  then 
bends  to  the  N.,  soon  reaching  (25  min.)  the  Nahr  el-'Auwali 
(the  ancient  Bostrenus),  which  separates  the  district  of  Teffdh  on 
the  S.  from  that  of  Kharnub  on  the  N.  The  bridge  overlooks  a 
garden  (Bustdn  esh-Sheikh;  on  the  right),  where  the  massive  foun- 
dation-walls of  the  platform  of  a  Temple  of  Eshmum  or  Asklepeion, 
along  with  inscriptions  of  King  Bodastart  and  other  Phn'nician 
antiquities,  were  brought  to  light  in  1903.  An  aqueduct  diverges 
from  the  river  at  the  point  where  it  leaves  the  mountains.  The 
road  rounds  a  promontory  affording  a  fine  retrospect  of  Sidon.  After 
40  min.,  having  regained  the  coast,  we  leave  the  village  of  Er- 
Rumeileh  on  the  right  (below  which  is  a  necropolis),  and  cross  the 
Nahr  el-Bur j  and  (!/2  hr.)  the  Wddi  es-Sekkeh  (with  a  khan  and  a 
few  houses).  The  promontory  here  is  called  RdsJedra.  In  50  min. 
we  reach  the  large  village  of  El-Jiya,  with  beautiful  gardens  and 
the  Khan  en-Nebi  Yunus;  to  the  right,  on  the  hill,  lies  Barja. 
According  to  the  Muslim  tradition,  Jonah  (Arab.  Dhu'n-nun,  'fish 
man')  was  cast  ashore  here  by  the  whale.  Near  this  spot  the  city  of 
Porphyreon  must  have  stood  in  ancient  times.  In  B.C.  218  Pto- 
lemy IV.  (Philopater)  was  defeated  by  Antiochus  the  Great  here. 

After  18  min.  we  cross  a  brook.  On  the  hill  to  the  right  lies  the 
village  of  Maksaba.  We  have  now  to  pass  the  spur  of  the  Kfi-s  ed- 
D&mur.  We  return  to  the  coast  (35  min.)  at  Sadiyeh,  the  halting- 
place  for  carriages  (comp.  p.  264).  In  9  min.  we  reach  an  iron 
bridge  over  the  broad  Nahr  ed-Ddmur,  the.  Tamyras  of  the  ancients, 
with  banks  fringed  by  oleanders.  Beyond  the  river  lies  the  (10  min.) 
straggling  village  of  El-Mu'allaka.  A  few  minutes  beyond  begin 
the  houses  of  En-Nd'imeh,  with  mulberry-plantations.  In  about 
1  hr.  the  road  again  approaches  the  sea  and  in  !/■>  hr.  more  it  reaches 
the  Khan  el-Khuldeh,  the  Heldua  of  the  4th  cent.,  a  place  with  an 
extensive  necropolis.  After  '/a  hr.  the  road  begins  to  quit  the  coast. 
The  carriage-road  makes  a  wide  de'tour  and  leads  through  olive- 
groves  to  (50  min.)  Esh-Shuxceifdt  (p.  284).  Thence  it  runs  via 
(1  hr.)  Hadeth  to  Beirut,  l</2  hr. 

The  bridle-path  (2i/2hrs.)  continues  to  follow  the  plain,  crosses  (3omin.) 
the  Wddi  Shuwei/dt ,  and  reaches  O/2  hr.)  the  Nahr  el-Ohadir.  We  soon 
enter  the  mulberry-plantations  and  gardens  of  Beirut.  In  35  min.  we  pass 
the  well  Bir  Hvteini  (chapel  of  St.  Joseph).  Wc  now  traverse  pine-planta- 
tions (p.  279),  and  at  length  (i  hr.)  reach  Beirut  (see  below). 


+ 


35.  Beirut  and  its  Environs. 


Arrival  and  Departure.  The  steamers  cast  anchor  in  the  Harbour 
(PI.  F,  G.  1).  The  landing  (boat  2  fr.  each ;  .cheaper,  by  arrangement, 
for  a  party)  is  conducted  in  a  more  orderly  fashion  than  at  Jaffa.  The 
hotels  and  tourist-companies  send  their  agents  on  board.  The  Douane 
(PI.  F,  1),  where  the  passports  and  luggage  are  examined  (comp.  pp.  xxiii, 
xxiv),  is  close  to  the  landing-place  of  the  steamers.  The  Steamboat  Offices 
are  also  close  at  hand:  Austrian,  in  the  street  behind  the  house  of  Orosdi 
Beg;  Egyptian.,  opposite  the   custom-house j  French  and  Jiuuian,    in  the 


v-*.~    y  ^  ->^ 3     BEIRUT.  '35.  Route.    275 


'M- 


(,af  9 oi via 

Khan  Antun/Beg  (PL  F,  1).  —  To  the  K.  (if  the  Douane  lies  the  Rail- 
way Station  (Gave,  PL  F,  G,  1;  to  Damascus,  see  p.  291;  to  Ma'amiltcin, 
see  p.  282). 

Hotels.  Hotel  d'Okient  (PL  b,  El;  kept  by  N.  Bassoul  Jc  Sons),  with 
Cook's  Agency;  Hotel  d'Allemagne  (Deutscher  Hof ;  PL  a,  El;  J.  &  C. 
Blaich;  well  spoken  of),  these  two  near  the  sea,  pens.  12-15  fr.,  wine  extra; 
Gassmann's  Hotkl  (PL  c;  F,  1),  near  the  Douane,  comp.  below.  —  Hotel- 
Pension  Victoria  (Nayoum),  less  pretentious.  —  The  following  houses 
are  chiefly  frequented  by  Levantine  merchants :  Hotel  de  i/Eukope  (Uarri- 
carirt;  PL  e,  Fl),  pension  without  wine  from  8  fr. ;  Okiental  Palace 
Hotel  (Mow-ad;  PL  f,  F  1);  Hotel  de  l'Umveks  (PL  g;  E,  1). 

Beer  and  Coffee  Houses.  Gassmann  (see  above),  the  seat  of  the  Schweizer 
Verein  or  Swiss  Club,  to  which  strangers  provided  with  an  introduction 
are  admitted;  Blaich,  near  the  Deutseher  Hof,  with  garden  and  bowling- 
alley.  At  these  German  beer  is  sold  (8  pi.  a  bottle).  —  On  the  beach  and 
in  the  Place  des  Canons  are  a  number  of  cafes,  kept  by  Levantines,  and 
frequently  enlivened  by  Bohemian  bands  of  music;  these,  like  the  Arab 
cafes   in   the   Place  des  Canons  (p.  27'J),  are  not  recommended  for  ladies. 

Post  Offices.  Turkish  (Poste  Ottomane),  in  the  Silk  el-Jemil.  British, 
French,  German,  Austrian,  and  Russian,  in  the  Khan  Antun  Beg,  near 
the  harbour  (PL  4).  The  Russian  post  is  used  only  for  local  letters.  The 
offices  are  closed  '/2  hr.  or,  for  registered  letters,  1  hr.  before  the  departure 
of  the  steamer,  but  letters  may  be  carried  on  board  the  steamer  even  after 
the  departure  of  the  small  post-boat.  —  Telegraph  (internat.),  in  the  main 
street  (Derb  el-Kebireh)  from  the  Place  des  Canons  to  the  barracks.  Tariff 
via.  Constantinople,   see   p.  xxv ;   via   Egypt  (Engl,  telegr.)  much   dearer. 

Provisions  and  Wine  at  the  hotels  or  from  Gassmann  (see  above); 
G.Komnos,  11.  Nag  ear,  both  in  the  Suk  Sayur;  Letaif,  Suk  Tawileh. 

Tourist  Agencies.  Cook  &  Son,  in  the  Hotel  d'Orient;  Hamburg -American 
Line,  near  the  Hotel  d'Allemagne;  Agence  Lubin,  near  both  the  above  hotels. 

Dragomans  (comp.  p.  xvii) :  Michel  Sha'ya,  Naaman  Abbas,  Selim  Dabed, 
Elyai  Telliemi,  'Abdul la  Durzi,  Melhem  Ouardi,  K/ialil  Teba,  John  Michel  Janko. 

Carriages.  Tariff:  single  trip  4  pi. ;  by  time  7l/z  pi.  an  hour  within 
the  town,  10  pi.  outside  the  town;  more  on  Sundays;  longer  trips  by 
agreement;  to  the  Dog  River  (p.  280)  10-12  fr.  —  Horses,  generally  good; 
charge  ll/j  mej.  for  a  day,  lmej.  for  I/zday,  but  less  for  prolonged  tours. 

Baths.  Turkish  Baths  (PL  B ;  F,  2),  price  1/2  mej.,  with  fee  of  •/*  nie.j. 
to  attendant  (comp.  p.  xxx).  —  Sea  Baths  (PL  E,  1),  to  the  W.  of  the  Hot. 
d'Orient  (21/*  pi.).  Towels,  etc.,  had  better  be  taken.  There  are  several 
other  inferior  sea-baths.  Sharks  are  not  uncommon  in  the  bay  of  Beirut, 
and  swimmers  should  therefore  not  venture  far  from  the  shore. 

Consulates  (open  9a.m.-12  noon).  United  States  (PL  65  C,  2),  C.  A. 
Bergholz,  consul-general.  Great  Britain  (PL  2;  G,  2),  R.  Drummond  Han, 
consul-general.  Austria  (PL  3;  H,  2),  Count  Kheienhiiller - Metsch,  consul- 
general.  Belgium  (PL  4;  D,  2),  J.  Leithe,  consul.  Denmark  (PL  5;  E,  2), 
C.  Sigrist  Weber,  consul.  France  (PL  7;  F,  1),  Fouques-Duparc,  consul- 
general.  Germany  (PL  1;  E,  2),  Dr.  Schroeder,  consul-general.  Holland 
(PL  10;  E,  2),  J.  Hummel,  consul-general.  Italy  (PL  9;  E,  2),  11.  Motta, 
consul-general.  Russia  (PL  11 ;  E,3),  Prince  de  Gagarine.  Spain  and  Portugal, 
A.  Parodi,  consul. 

Bankers  (comp.  pp.  xi,  xxii).  R.  Erny ;  Frankhanel  <t  Schi/ner ;  F.  Leithe; 
E.  Liillicke  <V  Co.;  Ney  <£  Co.;  F.  Wehner ;  Weber  <{■  Co.  —  The  Banaue  Otto- 
mane (see  p.  xi)  has  a  branch  in  the  Place  des  Canons.  For  rate  of 
exchange,  see  table  facing  the  title-page.  The  railways  (pp.  282,  291)  have 
a  special  rate  of  exchange:  1/.  sterling  =  110  pi.,  I  nap.  =  87'/2pL,  1  mejidi 
=  18'/z  pi.,  3  nehasi  =  5 pa.,  1  baghut  =  37 pa. ;  otherwise  like  the  official  rate. 

Physicians.  Dr.  Brigslocke,  Dr.  Wortabet,  Dr.  Post,  Dr.  Graham  (ill  Eng- 
lish), physicians  at  St.  John's  Hospital,  p.  276;  Dr.  Van  Dyck  (American)  ; 
Dr.  Loylved  and  Dr.  Kbnig  (German) ;  Dr.  de  Brun,  Dr.  Rouvier  (French). 
—  Dentists:  Mr.  Williams,  Mr.  Dray  (English);  Gladrow  (German);  BeUot 
(Greek).  —  Prussian  Pharmacy  in  the  Turkish  military  hospital  (PL  F,  2). 


276   Boufc  35. 


BEIRUT. 


Practical  .\otes. 


Shops.  European  Articles  at  various  places  in  the  Suk  et-Tawileh 
(PI.  F,  2,  1).  —  Tailors:  Araman,  in  the  Suk  et-Tawileh;  Paulo  tfortello, 
in  the  Suk  el-Jamil  (PI.  F,  1).  —  Saddlers:  Stephanski,  Friischie,  Althans, 
Fr.  Laufer  A  Son.  —  Arabian  Wares.  Silk  kefl'iyehs  (p.  lxiii),  quilled 
table-covers,  slippers,  cushions,  carpets,  and  tobacco-pouches  may  be  ad- 
vantageously purchased  at  Beirut.  The  filigree  work  of  Beirut,  a  cel- 
ebrated and  not  expensive  specialty,  is  largely  exported.  All  these  may 
be  procured  from  Tarasi,  Habis,  Omar  Lausi,  and  other  Arab  dealers  in 
the  city.  Bargaining  and  caution  are  necessary  (p.  xxviii),  both  in  the 
bazaar  and  with  traders  who  come  to  the  hotels  (p.  275). 

Booksellers.  European  hooks  at  Charles  Bezies  Fils,  in  the  Suk  et-Tawi- 
leh  (PI.  F,  2,1);  at  the  Jesuits''  Bookshop,  in  the  University  of  St.  Joseph 
(PI.  G,  3);  and  at  the  Book  Store  of  the  American  Mission,  near  the  American 
Church  (PI.  F,  2).  Arabic  works  at  Amtn  Kauri's  or  Ibrahim  Sadies,  both 
near  the  Place  des  Canons. 

Photographers.  Bonftls,  Dumas,  both  in  the  street  leading  from  the 
two  principal  hotels  into  the  town  (large  stock  of  good  photographs,  price 
7  fr.  a  dozen);  J.  Lind  (portraits),  near  the  barracks.  Photographic  require- 
ments are  also  on  sale  at  all  the  above. 

Churches,  Convents,  Hospitals,  and  Schools.  —  The  American  Mission 
(Presbyterian)  has  been  labouring  in  Syria  since  1821,  and  Beirut  is  the 
centre  of  its  operations.  It  aims  at  elevating  the  people  not  only  by  religious 
but  also  by  scientific  training,  and  men  like  Eli  Smith,  Van  Dyek,  and 
Thomson  have  rendered  eminent  service  in  this  latter  field.  Service  is 
held  in  the  Mission  Church  (PI.  F,  2)  on  Sundays,  at  11  a.m.  in  English 
and  at  9  a.m.  in  Arabic.  Close  by  are  a  Sunday  School  Mouse,  a  Gii-W 
School,  and  a  Printing  Office,  which  has  already  issued  a  number  of  publi- 
cations in  Arabic,  besides  a  weekly  paper  and  a  monthly  magazine  for 
children.  There  is  also  a  Female  Seminary.  The  Syrian  Protestant  College 
(College  Americain;  PI.  C,  1,  2)  at  Beirut,  with  its  theological  seminary, 
medical  faculty,  astronomical  observatory,  and  training-college,  shows 
that  the  mission  rightly  appreciates  the  requirements  of  the  country.  The 
pupils  of  the  medical  school  receive  a  four  years'  training  and  are  un- 
doubtedly far  superior  to  the  native  doctors.  —  The  total  number  of  schools 
of  the  American  Mission  is  111,  with  over  5550  pupils  of  both  sexes;  there 
are  106  mission-stations.     The  College  had  736  students  in  1905. 

The  Church  of  Scotland  Jewish  Mission  has  been  in  existence  since 
1864  and  devotes  itself  principally  to  the  Jews  and  especially  to  the  edu- 
cation of  the  young.  It  maintains  a  boys'  and  a  girls'  school,  as  well 
as  a  boarding-school  for  girls.  —  The  St.  Oeorge^s  Institute  for  Muslim  and 
Druse  girls  is  conducted  by  a  Scottish  lady,  Miss  Taylor. 

The  British  Syrian  Mission  Schools  and  Bible  Work  was  established 
for  the  reception  of  the  orphans  after  the  slaughter  of  the  Christians  in 
1860  and  has  its  headquarters  in  Beirut,  where  the  institutions  are  presided 
over  by  Mr,  and  Mrs.  Mott.  They  are  admirably  organized.  There  are  in 
Beirut,  a  training  institute  for  female  teachers  (PL  I),  E,  3)  and  eight  other 
Schools,  among  them  two  for  the  blind.  The  total  number  of  pupils  is 
more  than  700.  The  Mission  has  also  a  number  of  stations  in  Syria  with 
35  schools  (3500  pupils)  and  missionary  work. 

German  Institutions.  The  Hospital  of  the  Prussian  Order  of  St.  John 
(PI.  I),  2),  founded  in  1.866,  is  beautifully  situated  on  the  lias  Beirut  and  is 
well  equipped;  its  physicians  are  Dr.  Post  and  Dr.  Graham  (polyclinic 
separate),  and  the  nurses  are  deaconesses  from  Kaiserswerth.  It  has  about 
70  beds  and  private  rooms  for  patients;  1st.  class  20  fr.,  2nd  class  10  fr. 
a  day.  —  The  beautiful  Orphanage  of  the  Kaiserswerth  Deaconesses  (0r- 
pheiinat  Atteinand,  1'i.  E,  1)  accommodates  130  native  orphans]  the  ad- 
joining Boarding  School  is  as  good  as  a  girls'  high  school  in  Europe.  The 
building  also  contains  the  lYolcstant  Chapel :  service  in  German  at  10  a.m. 
on  Sundays.  The  Asfuriyeh  Insane  Asylum  (l>r.  Waldmeyer;  physican, 
Dr.  Wolf)  is  on  the  Damascus  Road.,  1/2  M.  beyond  El-IIazmiyeh  (p.  27'J). 

French  Institutions.  The  large  establishment  of  the  Soeurs  de  la 
Charitd  de  St.  Vincent  de  Paul  contains  an  orphanage,  day-school,  and  board- 


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Popula  ulation. 


BEIRUT. 


35.  Route.    277 


ig-school  ),)i  (2000  girls).  —  The  large  Hospital  of  the  Lazaritls  (PI.  F,  2) 
i  excelleiillcntly  equipped  and  managed  by  the  Soeurs  de  la  Charite.  The 
azarists  Us  have  also  a  boys'1  school  (175  pupils)  and  a  handicraft-school.  — 
ioarding  ag  and  day  school  of  the  Dames  de  tfazareth  (PI.  G,  H,  4,  see  p.  279), 
it li  BOO  g0  girls.  —  The  Jesuits  maintain  the  Universiti  de  St.  Joseph  (PI.  E,  3), 
large  ins  institution  (700  pupils),  with  medical,  theological,  and  Oriental 
acuities,  as,  a  seminary,  a  secondary  school,  and  an  admirable  Printing  Office, 
rom  whic  liieh  a  whole  series  of  valuable  works  lias  been  issued.  The  Jesuits 
ossess  in  ;  in  all  eight  stations  in  Syria,  with  schools  attended  by  6800  boys  (1000 
n  Beirut)  it)  and  4(300  girls.  —  The  Franciscans  possess  a  monastery  (PI.  G,  2) 
nd  a  haii'iandsome  church.  — The  Capuchins  have  a  monastery  and  a  school 
150  boys  •,  ,-s  •,  PI.  F,  2).  —  The  Freres  des  Ecoles  Chritiennes  maintain  two  schools, 
i ml  the  i,'  native  Ilelvjieuses  du  Sacri-Coeur  one.  The  Soeurs  de  St.  Joseph 
[PI.  E,  3)  13)  have  a  convent. 

The  le  Italians  have  founded  several  new  schools  in  Syria. 
The  Ge  Greeks,  Maronites,   and   other  confessions  are  also  well  provided 
with  scho'.hools. 

Beiruirut  or  Beyrout  is  beautifully  situated  on  the  S.  side  of 
St.  Georj:orge's  Bay,  between  the  heights  of  Ras  Beirut  (p.  280)  and 
St.Dimitnitri  (p.  279),  in  30°50'  N.  latitude  and  35°30'  E.  longitude. 
It  is  the  ie  chief  commercial  place  in  Syria,  the  capital  of  the  Vilayet 
p.  1  vii )  o  )  of  the  same  name,  and  the  residence  of  the  Vali  (Khalll  Pasha). 
It  is  alsulso  the  seat  of  a  Latin  archbishop,  who  is  Papal  Delegate  of 
Syria,  a  a  Greek  Orthodox  bishop,  and  a  Maronite  archbishop.  The 
populatiution  is  120,000,  including  a  garrison  of  500  infantry  and 
250  cava  valry.  The  plain  is  covered  with  luxuriant  gardens.  Beyond 
them  thehe  mountains  rise  rapidly,  over-topped  by  the  summits  of  the 
Sanniu  ai  and  Keneiseh  (snow-clad  till  early  summer;  coihp.  p.  283), 
and  furnrrowcd  by  several  deep  ravines,  but  cultivated  to  a  consider- 
able heiieight.  The  climate  of  Beirut  is  very  mild  (comp.  p.  xlix). 
The  crococus,  cyclamen,  and  other  flowers  thrive  even  in  winter,  and 
palms  a  are  frequently  seen  in  the  gardens.  The  heat  of  summer  is 
tempereired  by  a  fresh  sea-breeze.  August  and  September,  however, 
are  ofter.en  very  hot,  owing  to  the  absence  of  wind ;  and  most  of  the 
Europeaean  and  wealthier  native  residents  remove  then  to  the  heights 
of  Lebaiianon  (comp.  pp.  282,  283).  October  and  November  are  usually 
pleasantnt  months;  the  first  heavy  rains  generally  occur  at  the  end 
of  Septotember.  Since  the  construction  of  the  water-works  in  1875 
(p.  2«~>1)1)  Beirut  has  been  looked  upon  as  the  healthiest  town  on  the 
Syrian  <••  coast. 

Theie  Muslim  clement  of  the  population  is  in  every  way  less  im- 
portant t  than  the  Christian.  The  36,000  Muslims  have  23  mosques, 
23  schocools  for  boys,  with  2100  pupils,  and  4  girls'  schools,  with 
550  purapils.  The  Christian  population  includes  35,000  Orthodox 
Greeks,  s,  28,000  Maronites,  9000  United  Greeks,  1800  Latins,  2100 
Protestatants,  500  Syrian  Catholics,  200  United  Armenians.  400  Dru- 
ses, andid  4300  Europeans.  There  are  38  Christian  churches,  42  boys' 
schools, s,  and  25  girls'  schools.  The  Jews  number  2500.  Italian  was 
t'ormerlyly  the  commonest  language  here,  next  to  Arabic,  but  it  is  now 
being  didisplaced  by  French,  as  many  of  the  Roman  Catholic  Christians 
have  tlnheir  children  educated  in  the  Lazarist  and  other  good  French 


278 


Route  35. 


BEIRUT. 


History. 


schools.  The  percentage  of  persons  at  Beirut  who  cannot  read  or  write 
is  comparatively  low  for  an  Eastern  town.  As  evidence  of  the  intel- 
lectual activity  of  the  people  it  may  be  added  that  20  printing- 
offices  (the  best  are  the  Jesuit  and  the  American)  exist  in  Beirut, 
and  12  Arabic  newspapers  find  readers.  Beirut  is  in  fact  the  centre 
of  the  Oriental  book-trade  in  Syria. 

In  1904  the  port  of  Beirut  was  entered  by  2512  sailing-vessels 
of  63,814  tons  and  by  1001  steamers  of  1,170,698  tons.  The  exports, 
to  the  value  of  32  million  fr.  in  the  same  year,  consist  chiefly  of  raw 
silk  and  cocoons,  olive-oil,  liquorice,  cotton,  fruit,  sesame,  raisins,  figs, 
soap,  sponges,  cattle  and  goats,  etc.  The  chief  imports  (75  million  fr. 
ill  1904)  are  textiles,  timber,  firewood,  coffee,  petroleum,  rice,  sugar, 
and  manufactured  goods.  The  native  Christians  of  Beirut  are  very 
industrious,  apparently  possessing  a  share  of  the  commercial  enter- 
prise of  the  ancient  Phoenicians.  Many  of  the  firms  have  branches 
in  England,  Marseilles,  and  America  and  compete  keenly  with  the 
European  merchants  settled  in  Syria.  In  spite  of  all  impediments 
thrown  in  the  way  by  government  large  numbers  of  the  natives 
(especially  Christians)  emigrate  from  Beirut  and  Lebanon  to  America. 
These,  however,  live  there  with  the  utmost  frugality,  and  return  to 
Syria  as  soon  as  they  have  accumulated  a  little  property. 

History.  In  the  Tell  el-'Amarna  letters  (p.  lxxv)  the  name  of  Berytus 
occurs  as  the  seat  of  the  Egyptian  vassal  king  Ammunira;  but  it  is  not 
to  be  identified  with  Berothai  (2.  Sam.  viii.  8;  Ezek.  xlvii.  16).  It  lay 
in  the  territory  of  the  Canaanitish  'Giblites1,  a  N.  branch  of  the  Phoeni- 
cians. It  is  not  named  in  the  history  of  the  campaigns  of  Alexander.  In 
the  second  century  after  Christ  Berytus  is  said  to  have  been  entirely 
destroyed  in  the  course  of  the  struggle  for  the  crown  between  Tryphon 
and  Antiochus  VII.,  but  the  Romans  afterwards  rebuilt  it  and  made  it  a 
colony,  which  they  named  Julia  Augusta  Felix  Jierylut  after  the  daughter 
of  the  Emperor  Augustus.  On  a  coin  of  the  reign  of  Caracalla  the  town 
is  named  Antoniniana.  Herod  the  Great,  Herod  Agrippa  I.,  and  Herod 
Agrippa  II.  embellished  Berytus  with  baths  and  theatres.  An  aqueduct 
supplied  the  town  with  water  from  the  Magoras  (p.  280).  In  the  middle 
of  the  3rd  cent,  a  Roman  school  of  law,  which  afterwards  became  very 
celebrated,  began  to  flourish  here.  Berytus  became  famous  for  its  silk 
manufacture,  which  was  thence  carried  to  Greece,  and  afterwards  from 
Greece  to  Sicily.  In  529  Berytus  was  destroyed  by  an  earthquake,  after 
which  the  town  was  never  rebuilt  in  its  ancient  importance.  In  635  it 
was  taken  by  the  Muslims.  In  1125-87  and  1197-1291  it  was  almost  con- 
tinuously in  the  possession  of  the  Crusaders.  Beirut  was  the  favourite 
residence  of  Fakhreddln  (1595-1634),  an  able  Druse  prince  who  succeeded 
in  founding  an  independent  kingdom  for  himself  in  alliance  with  the 
Venetians,  the  natural  enemies  of  the  Turks.  He  favoured  the  native 
Christians  and  promoted  trade.  He  afterwards  went  to  the  court  of  the 
Medicis  at  Florence  to  beg  for  assistance  against  the  Turks,  and  remained 
nine  years  in  Italy.  On  his  return  he  made  many  enemies  by  his  inno- 
vations, and  by  erecting  a  number  of  buildings  in  the  European  style. 
His  son  'All  was  defeated  and  slain  by  the  Turks  at  Safe.',  and  Beirut 
was  taken.  Shortly  afterwards  Fakhreddin  himself  was  taken  prisoner,  and 
was  strangled  by  order  of  Sultan  Amurath  at  Stambul.  During  the  19th  cent. 
Beirut  gradually  attained  a  new  lease  of  prosperity.  Under  the  Egyptian 
rule  (p.  Ixxxv)  its  sea-borne  commerce  increased,  while  Sidon  and  Tripoli 
declined.  In  1840  the  town  was  bombarded  by  the  British  fleet  and  recap- 
tured for  the  Turks,  but  sustained  no  great  damage.    Numerous  Christians 


The  Pines. 


BEIRUT. 


35.  Route.    279 


have  settled  at  Beirut,  especially  since  the  massacre  of  the  Christians  in 
1860,  and  the  place  has  since  then  greatly  increased  in  extent. 

Beirut  contains  few  objects  of  interest.  Some  fragments  of  col- 
umns, mosaics,  sarcophagi,  and  rock-tombs  are  the  only  evidences  of 
antiquity,  the  last  occurring  mainly  in  the  direction  of  the  promont- 
ory of  Has  Beirut.  —  The  streets  of  the  Old  Town  (PI.  F,  1,  2")  are 
narrow  and  badly  paved.  The  Bazaar  is  unattractive  to  visitors,  as 
European  influence  has  deprived  it  of  many  Oriental  characteristics. 
The  Gre<it  Mosque(P\.F,  2),  to  which  admission  is  not  easily  obtained, 
was  originally  a  church  of  St.  John  of  the  Crusaders'  period,  and  the 
inside  walls  have  been  adorned  by  the  Muslims  with  rude  arabesques. 
It  has  no  dome.  The  so-called  Place  des  Canons  (PL  F,  2),  which  has 
been  adorned  with  flower-beds,  is  adjoined  by  the  new  Serai,  the  bar- 
racks, and  numerous  coffee-houses,  where  the  manners  of  the  native 
population  may  be  studied.  —  The  New  Quarters  of  the  town, 
especially  to  the  W.  on  the  slopes  of  the  Has  Beirut  and  to  the  E.  on 
Mt.  St.  Dimitri,  have  broad  and  airy  streets,  with  numerous  pretty 
villas  and  pleasant  gardens.  Charming  views  of  the  heights  encircling 
the  town  and  of  the  ridge  of  the  Sannin  (p.  283)  are  framed  in  the 
green  foliage  of  orange  and  lemon  trees,  sycamores,  and  palms. 

The  Damascus  Road  (PI.  G,  4,  5)  leads  past  the  Israelite  and 
Protestant  Cemeteries  (with  the  castle-like  building  of  the  Dames  de 
Nazareth  above  us  to  the  left;  see  p.  277)  to  (1  '/2  M.)  the  Pines  (Iiois 
de  Pins;  PI.  F,  G,  6;  Arabic  Hersh),  a  grove  of  pines  (Pinus  Halebensis) 
planted  by  Fakhreddin  (p.  278)  as  a  protection  against  the  encroach- 
ment of  the  sand  from  the  S.  Just  short  of  the  first  group  of  pines, 
to  the  right,  are  some  new  cavalry  barracks,  adjoined  by  a  beautiful 
garden.  —  On  the  Damascus  Road,  about  1 1/%  M.  beyond  the  Pines, 
lies  El-IIazmtyeh,  with  the  tomb  of  the  respected  Franko  Pasha, 
governor-general  of  the  Lebanon.  Close  by  is  the  tomb  of  the  cel- 
ebrated Beirut  scho'ar  Paris  esh-Shidyak  (continuation  of  the  road, 
see  p.  284).  From  El-IIazmiyeh  we  may  proceed  to  the  S.W.  and 
return  to  (l'/j  hr.)  Beirut  via  El-Hadeth,  passing  a  clean  coffeehouse 
on  the  way,  or  we  may  proceed  to  the  N.E.  across  the  bridge  over  the 
Nahr  Beirut  (p.  280),  passing  near  Rustem  Pasha,s  Garden  (now  a 
pleasure-resort),  and  regain  the  town  by  the  Tripoli  road  ( ca.  1  '/•>  'ir  l« 
Conip.  the  annexed  Map.  Another  pleasant  object  for  a  walk  is 
afforded  by  Mt.  St.  Dimitri  (Demetrius;  PI.  H,  5-3),  about  li/2  M. 
from  the  Place  des  Canons.  "We  follow  the  Derb  en-Nahr  road  to  the 
E.,  passing  the  Franciscan  Convent,  and  beyond  the  Greek  Orthodox 
Hospital  (PL  H,  2)  we  ascend  to  the  right.  To  the  left  lies  the  Maro- 
nite  College.  Shortly  before  reaching  the  Jsraelitish  College  (PL  H,  3) 
we  take  the  road  diverging  to  the  left,  which  leads  to  the  lower 
Reservoir  of  the  Beirut  water-works.  The  hill  is  partly  cultivated  and 
overgrown  with  trees  and  shrubs.  The  northernmost  point  of  the 
hill,  where  a  more  open  space  is  reached  (5  min.)  near  a  cemetery 
and  some  pines,   affords  a  delightful  *View  of  the  bay  and  town  of 


280   flou<e  35. 


HAS  BEIRUT. 


Excursions 


Beirut.  To  the  E.  rises  Mt.  Lebanon.  The  contrast  between  the 
rosy  tint  of  the  mountains  and  the  deep  blue  of  the  sea  is  highly 
picturesque  by  evening-light.  —  We  may  return  thence  to  Beirut 
by  descending  to  the  N.E.  to  the  Tripoli  road. 

The  R&s  Beirut  (PI.  A,  1)  is  reached  by  a  road  passing  the 
Hospital  of  the  Knights  of  St.  John  (Pi.  D,  2;  p.  276)  and  the 
American  College  (PI.  C,  1,  2;  p.  276).  In  1/2  hr.  w©  reach  the 
Lighthouse  (Phare,  PI.  A  2:  Arabic  fan&r).  Thence  the  road  decends 
in  windings  to  the  sea.  On  the  coast  here,  opposite  the  two  small 
rocky  islands ,  are  several  beautiful  caves,  known  as  the  Pigeons' 
Grottoes.  These  may  be  reached  by  boat  from  the  lighthouse  in 
10  min.  (12-15  pi.);  from  the  harbour  in  J/2  hr.  with  a  favourable 
wind  (I72  mej.).  The  colouring  is  finest  just  before  sunset.  The 
first  and  largost  grotto  is  130  ft.  long,  50  ft.  broad,  and  65  ft.  high  ; 
the  second  grotto  is  double  and  shows  perhaps  the  finest  colouring ; 
the  third  grotto  is  more  accurately  a  very  narrow  cleft  in  a  project- 
ing cliff.  Opposite  the  third  grotto  is  an  arch  of  rock.  When  the 
sun  stands  behind  the  arch,  the  play  of  colours  in  the  water  beneath 
is  magnificent. 


Excursions  from  Beirut. 

The  Excursion  to  the  Dog  Riveb.  is  worth  making,  not  only 
for  its  scenic  beauty  but  also  for  the  interesting  inscriptions  and 
sculptures  on  the  promontory  itself.  It  occupies  about  half-a-day: 
railway  (^  hr.),  see  p.  282;  carriage  (ca.  IV2  hr.),  see  p.  275; 
horse  along  the  beach  (ca.  2  hrs. )  3-5  fr. 

The  road  (Derben-Nahr,  P1.F,G,2;  Route  de Tripoli,  PI.  0,  H,2) 
leads  at  first  along  the  N.  foot  ofMt.  Dimitri,  passing  the  ruins 
of  a  Chapel  of  St.  George,  marking  the  legendary  site  of  his  con- 
flict with  the  dragon.  To  the  left,  on  the  beach,  are  the  Gas  Works 
and  the  Quarantine  Building.  Beyond  the  old  railway-station  (to 
the  left)  the  road  crosses  (ca.  2  M.  from  the  Place  des  Canons)  the 
Nalir  Beirut,  the  Magoras  of  the  ancients,  by  a  handsome  bridge, 
either  built  or  restored  by  F&khre&din.  The  river  forms  the  boun- 
dary between  the  Beirut  Vilayet  and  the  Liwa  of  Lebanon  (p.  lvii ). 
On  the  right  bank  the  road  to  Rustem  Pasha's  garden  (p.  279)  di- 
verges to  the  right.  In  14  min.  we  cross  the  bridge  over  the  brook 
'Adawtyeh,  From  this  point  travellers  on  horseback  may  take  the 
road  along  the  beach.  The  road  runs  at  a  little  distance  from  the 
beach  through  luxuriant  gardens  and  plantations  of  mulberry-trees 
op.  liii).  A  number  of  villages  may  be  observed  scattered  along 
(lie  range  of  hills  on  the  right.  In  10  min.  we  reach  the  first  houses 
tf  the  little  village  of  El-Jedeideh  (on  the  right  is  the  bridle-path 
to  Beit  Meri,  p.  282).  In  5  min.  we  come  to  the  Nahr  el-M6t  ('the 
river  of  death' ).  We  then  cross  (35  min.)  a  bridge  over  the  Nahr 
Antelyds  (probably  St.  Ellas'),  so  named  from  the  village  on  the 


KNVniONS 
of 

JB'IRVT(BERYTUS) 

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Statute  Miles 


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"Wagner  A  Debra'  G^ogra.ph.JEKtabl*.  l.eipii|r. 


Hi 


from  Beirut. 


NAUR  EL-KELB. 


35.  Route.    281 


light  bank;  on  the  right  is  the  road  toBekfeiya(p.282).  The  road  now 
skirts  the  coast  and  the  railway.  In  35  min.  we  reach  Debdyeh,  with 
the  engine-honse  and  filtering- beds  of  the  water-works  (Beyrout 
"Waterworks  Company,  Limited),  which  are  fed  by  the  Dog  River. 

The  road  crosses  the  railway,  skirts  the  rocky  promontory  which 
here  protrudes  into  the  sea,  and  reaches  (in  20  min.)  the  bridge  over 
the  Dog  River,  forming  the  goal  of  our  excursion.  This  pass  played 
a  r6le  in  history,  not  only  in  antiquity  but  also  in  the  first  Crusade 
and  during  the  Syrian  and  Egyptian  wars  of  the  19th  century.  A 
Roman  road  crossed  the  mountain  at  a  height  of  about  100  ft.  above 
the  present  road;  this  was  hewn  in  the  rock  in  177-180  A.D.  during 
the  reign  of  the  Emperor  Marcus  Antoninus,  and  was  formerly 
paved  with  slabs  of  stone.  Still  higher  up  are  numerous  Egyptian, 
Assyrian,  and  other  inscriptions  and  sculptures,  indicating  the  exist- 
ence of  a  much  more  ancient  road.  The  Egyptian  inscriptions  refer  to 
the  campaigns  of  Sesostris  (Ramses  II.,  B.C.  1324-1258).  In  the  As- 
syrian inscriptions  of  Shalmaneser  II.  (B.C.  859-825)  the  promontory 
is  named  Barli-ras.    The  inscriptions  are  best  seen  from  the  bridge. 

The  inscriptions  consist  of  panels  hewn  some  5  or  (j  inches  deep  in  the 
rocky  wall.  They  are  from  l^fa  yd.  to  nearly  3  yds.  in  height  and  from  about 
2  ft.  4  in.  to  Ufa  yd.  in  breadth.  No.  1,  near  the  bridge,  is  an  inscription  of 
the  French  expedition  of  18G0  and  1861,  for  which  the  panel  of  an  ancient 
Egyptian  inscription  (dedicated  to  Ptah)  has  been  used.  No.  2,  about  6  yds. 
farther  to  the  S.,  is  an  Assyrian  inscription,  with  the  figure  of  a  king 
raising  his  right  hand.  No.  3,  close  by,  is  an  Assyrian  figure,  of  which 
the  head  alone  is  distinctly  recognizable.  About  22  yds.  higher  up  and 
a  little  above  the  old  road  is  No.  4,  an  indistinct  Assyrian  figure  on  a  rather 
smaller  panel,  rounded  at  the  top.  Farther  on  along  the  old  road  are 
No.  5,  a  Latin,  and  No.  6,  a  Greek  inscription.  A  little  higher  up  is  No.  7, 
a  panel  with  rounded  top,  containing  an  Assyrian  figure;  close  by  it  is 
No.  8,  a  large  Egyptian  tablet  with  a  frieze  (Pharaoh  sacrificing  to  the 
Sun-god  Ka).  About  33  yds.  farther  on  is  No.  9,  an  Assyrian  inscription, 
with  rounded  top;  fhe  figure  of  the  king  is  well  preserved.  About  40  yds. 
farther  we  come  to  No.  10,  Egyptian,  a  large  panel  with  a  fine  frieze 
(Pharaoh  and  the  Theban  god  Amnion  of  Upper  Egypt).  Near  it  is  No.  11, 
Assyrian  inscription,  referring  to  the  conquest  of  Egypt  by  the  Assyrian 
King  Esarhaddon  and  the  expulsion  of  King  Tirhaka  (B.C.  G70)  Esar- 
haddon  is  represented  with  a  curly  beard,  clad  in  a  long  robe  and  the 
Kidaris  cap  on  his  head;  the  left  hand  holds  a  sceptre  and  is  placed  against 
his  breast;  the  right  hand,  as  usual  with  such  Assyrian  figures,  is  extended 
as  if  in  the  act  of  offering  something. 

The  Nahr  el-Kelb  or  Dog  River,  known  to  the  Greeks  as  the  Lykos 
('Wolf River)  rises  on  the  Sannin(p.283)  and  flows  through  a  narrow 
green  ravine  into  the  sea,  about  7'^  M.  from  Beirut.  Tradition 
relates  that  on  a  cliff  in  the  sea  stood  a  gigantic  stone  dog,  which 
barked  on  the  approach  of  an  enemy.  The  stream  is  crossed  by  a 
handsome  bridge,  with  a  cafe  at  each  end  of  it.  Below  the  bridge 
is  the  railway  viaduct.  Higher  up  is  a  smaller  bridge,  built,  as  an 
inscription  records,  by  Emir  Beshir  (p.  288)  in  the  year  1224  of 
the  Ilegira  (1828-29). 

A  bridge  has  probably  existed  here  since  the  earliest  times.  An 
Arabic  inscription  to  the  S.  of  the  smaller  bridge,  states  that  a  bridge 
was  built  here  by  Sultan  Selim  (p.  lxxxv);  and  a  Latin  inscription  between 


282   tfotUe  35. 


BEKFEIYA. 


Excursions 


the  two  bridges  records  the  construction  of  the  Roman  road  under  Marcus 
Antoninus  (p.  281).  An  old  aqueduct  runs  down  the  N.  bank  of  the  gorge 
towards  the  valley.  Below  is  an  almost  illegible  cuneiform  inscription 
of  four  columns,  mentioning  King  Nebuchadnezzar  II.  of  Babylon  (p.  395). 

The  Excursion  to  Jebeil  (p.  334),  with  its  interesting  necro- 
polis, requires  a  whole  day.  We  proceed  by  railway  (train  every 
3  hrs.)  to  Ma'amiltein  in  55  min.  (fare  10  pi.  35  pa.,  11  pi.  10  pa.; 
comp.  note  on  the  rateof  exchange,  p.  275),  and  go  on  thence  by 
carriage  (l3/4  hr. ;  fare  8-10  fr.),  -which  is  always  easily  obtainable. 

The  railway  leads  along  the  sea  below  the  road  described  at 
p.  280.  1  M.  Ed-Dora;  2  M.  Nahr  tl-Mot;  3'/2  M.  Antelyas;  5  M. 
Debdyeh.  The  line  now  crosses  the  road  and  passes  by  a  cutting 
through  the  spur  to  the  S.  of  the  Nahr  el-Kelb  (p.  '281).  Beyond 
(N.)  the  river  we  again  run  close  to  the  sea  and  beyond  (8  M.)  Antura 
-we  skirt  the  beautiful  bay  of  Juneh.  97-2  M.  Sarbd;  10'/2  M.  Juneh, 
a  village  with  a  small  harbour  and  a  Turkish  telegraph-office.  The 
mountain-slopes  are  thickly  studded  with  villages,  the  houses  of 
which  are  picturesquely  scattered  among  gardens.  Above  Juneh  lies 
Ghadtr,  adjoining  which  is  Sarbd  (with  its  railway-station  to  the 
S.E.),  while  at  the  very  top  of  the  hill  is  Bkerki,  the  residence  of 
the  Greek  bishop,  separated  by  a  small  valley  from  Zuk  Mikdyil.  — 
12  M.  Ma'amiltein,  on  the  N.  side  of  the  bay.  Hence  to  Jebeil,  see 
p.  335. 

To  Bekfeiya,  ca.  15^2  M.,  carriage-road  (regular  carriage-service 
during  the  summer).  We  take  the  Tripoli  road  as  far  as  the  Nahr 
Antelyas  (i1/^  hr. ;  see  p.  280),  where  we  diverge  to  the  right  by 
a  road  which  at  once  begins  to  ascend  the  hill.  In  1%  hr.  we  reach 
'Ain  'Ar,  about  J/4  hr.  above  which  lies  the  monastery  Kurnet 
esh-Shahwdn,  the  seat  of  the  Maronite  bishop  of  Cyprus.  We  reach 
Bekfeiyft.  (Turkish  telegraph)  in  another  II/4  hr.  The  Jesuits  have 
a  church,  monastery,  and  schools  here.  Bekfeiya  is  a  rather  large 
place  with  silk-factories.  It  is  beautifully  situated  high  up  on  the 
mountain,  directly  above  the  deep  ravine  of  theDog  River. —  Farther 
on  the  road  leads  us  along  the  crest  of  the  hills  to  the  E.  (Esh-Shu- 
weir,  an  English  mission -station,  with  large  silk -manufactories, 
lies  1/i  hr.  to  our  left)  to  El-Mutein. 


The  villages  on^the  Slope  of  the  Lebanon,  such  as  Beit  Meri, 
Brummana,  and  'Aleih,  are  favourite  summer -resorts  of  the  in- 
habitants of  Beirut  (p.  277)  and  are  also  frequented  by  the  Euro- 
peans living  in  Egypt  and  Cyprus.  The  air  is  very  healthy,  the 
heat  is  moderate  even  in  the  height  of  summer,  and  there  is  a  con- 
siderable fall  cf  temperature  at  night. 

To  Beit  Meri  (lO1^  M.)  and  Brummana  (12  M.),  carriage-road 
with  daily  carriage-service  in  3^2  or  4  hrs.  Beyond  the  bridge  across 
the  Nahr  Beirut  C/2  hr- ;  see  P-  280)  we  diverge  to  the  right  from  the 
Tripoli  road,  and  in  20  min.  more  we  take  the  road  on  the  left  across 


from  Beirtit. 


BEIT  MERI. 


35.  Route.   283 


the  plain  of  Sdhel  to  the  E.  At  the  village  of  Tekweini  (25  min.) 
the  road  begins  to  ascend  the  hill  in  curves.  The  higher  we  ascend 
the  more  beautiful  is  the  view.  In  about  3  hrs.  we  reach  the  village 
of  'Am  Se'ddeh  (the  summer-residence  of  the  Maronite  archbishop), 
and  in  20  min.  more  the  Maronite  village  of  — 

Beit  Meri  (2395  ft.  above  the  sea-level),  with  2000  inhab., 
which  has  two  hotels  in  the  season.  A  little  pine-grown  hill,  to  the 
S.,  offers  a  magnificent  *Vikw:  to  the  S.  Deir  el-Kal'a  (see  below); 
far  beneath  to  the  E.  the  Wddi  SalimCi  unites  with  the  Wddi  Ham- 
tndna  to  form  the  Beirut  river.  Between  the  two  is  the  ridge  of 
El-Metn  with  the  village  of  Rds  el-Metn. 

From  Beit  Meri  the  Maronite  monastery  of  Deir  el  -  Kal'a  may  be 
reached  in  '/<  hr.  It  is  situated  2200  ft.  above  the  sea-level.  There  Is  a  fine 
view  from  the  roof  of  the  monastery  church.  Many  remains  of  antiquities 
and  sarcophagi  are  found  here.  The  foundations  of  an  ancient  temple, 
35  yds.  long  by  18  yds.  broad,  are  still  preserved.  The  front  looked  to- 
wards the  plain.  Fragments  of  the  columns  of  the  portico  are  still  to 
be  seen.  The  large  drafted  stones  testify  to  the  great  antiquity  of  the 
building,  which,  according  to  an  inscription,  was  dedicated  'Jovi  Balmai-- 
codi',  which  has  been  translated  'Lord  of  the  Dancing  Festivals'.  —  Trav- 
ellers on  horseback  may  return  by  the  monastery  of  Mdr  R6kus  and 
Tekweini  (see  above),  or  by  Rustein  Pasha's  garden  (p.  279). 

From  Beit  Meri  we  take  the  road  along  the  crest  of  the  hills, 
enjoying  a  beautiful  view  of  the  deep  Wddi  Salimd  on  our  right, 
and  arrive  in  35  min.  at  — 

Bninimana  (2360  ft.;  Lebanon  Hotel,  kept  by  Saalmiiller,  a 
German,  plain  but  good,  fine  view  from  the  terrace ;  Hotel  des'  Climes, 
kept  by  Bonflls.  at  both  these,  pens,  with  wine  8-10  fr. ;  Turkish 
Telegraph),  which  contains  2600  inhab.  and  is  the  seat  of  the  Kaim- 
makam  of  the  district  of  El-Metn.  It  is  the  chief  station  of  the 
Quakers,  who  havo  a  church,  boys'  and  girls'  schools,  and  a  hospital 
and  dispensary.  It  also  possesses  a  schools  of  the  Lazarists.  The 
name  ('Beit  rummana')  means  'house  of  the  pomegranate'. 

The  carriage  goes  on,  passing  Mdrsha'yd,  an  Orthodox  and  a 
Maronite  monastery  on  the  heights  to  the  left,  to(3/4hr.)  Ba'abddt. 

From  Brummana  an  ascent  of  the  Sannin  (8560  ft.)  may  be  made; 
11-12  hrs.  We  follow  the  carriage-road  to  Ba'abddt  (3/4  hr. ;  see  above), 
whence  a  bad  road  leads  past  the  monastery  of  Mdr  Milsd  ed-Dmcdr  to  Dahr 
esh- Shuweir  (1  hr.),  where  there  is  a  cafe.  We  proceed  thence  by  road  to 
(3/4  hr.)  El-Mutein  (p.  282),  whence  a  stony  path  leads  to  the  (11/*  hr.) 
beautiful  spring  of  A'eba'  Bkale'a  (or  Kale'a)-  We  pass  some  peasants'  houses 
and  turn  to  the  left  (N.),  after  which  we  reach  O/4  hr.)  the  deep  grotto  of 
Mis/imishi'h  and  in  another  '/«  hr.  the  J6z,  a  group  of  walnut-trees  about 
20  min.  from  the  road,  where  there  are  ruins  of  a  building  of  the  Phoeni- 
cian-Hellenistic period,  and  some  sarcophagi.  In  I1/2  hr.  we  reach  the 
spring  A'eba'  Manbtikh,  and  in  2  hrs.  Neba'  Sannin,  beneath  the  summit 
of  the  Sannin:  there  are  a  few  peasants''  houses  here.  From  the  spring 
we  now'  turn  to  the  S.E.  till  we  reach  the  crest  of  the  hill  between  Sannin 
and  Keneiteh  (l'/i  br.),  whence  we  take  the  path  to  the  N.  to  the  summit 
(2l/<  hrs.).  We  have  a  pretty  view  of  the  sea,  Beirut,  and  the  district  of 
El-Metn;  to  the  E. ,  the  Bikaf  and  the  Anti-Libanus ;  towards  the  N.  the 
prospect  is  bounded  by  the  ranges  of  the  KesrawSn.  In  some  of  the  ravines 
snow  lies  till  July.  On  the  N.  slopes  are  ancient  ruins.  —  The  steep 
descent  to  Zahleh  (p.  292)  takes  5-6  hrs. 


284   Route  35. 


'ALEin. 


To  'Aleih,  besides  tlic  railway  (p.  Q91),  carriages  ply  daily  in 
summer  (21/j  hrs.).  The  Damascus  road  leads  past  El-Hazmiyeh 
(p.  279)  and  the  Asfuriyeh  Insane  Asylum  (p.  276)  and  then  winds 
upwards  among  the  well-cultivated  slopes  of  the  Lebanon,  affording 
a  series  of  magnificent  views.  After  a  time  the  deep  ravine  of  the 
Nahr  Beirut  (p.  280)  becomes  visible  on  our  left.  A  little  to  the 
left  below  Kh&n  Jemhur (QifeM.)  lies'Areiy&( station  on  the  railway, 
p.  292),  a  favourite  summer-resort  of  the  inhabitants  of  Beirut.  From 
this  point  on  the  mountain-district  is  named  El-Gharb  (the  west).  — 
At  Khan Sheikh  Mahmud  (lO1/-.)  M.)  the  road  diverges  to  the  right  and, 
running  along  the  verge  of  the  hills,  leads  us  (about  1  M.)  to  — 

'Aleih.  —  Hotels.  II6t.  Bassoul,  a  branch  of  the  Hot.  d'Orient  in 
Heh'Ut;  Hot.  Ktrillo;  Anglo-American  Pension;  pens,  at  all  these  10  fr. 
(wine  extra),  less  for  a  prolonged  stay.  —  Po9T  &  Telegraph  Office, 
where  French  may  be  used. 

'Aleih  (2460  ft.  above  the  sea- level)  is  a  favourite  summer- 
resort  of  the  inhabitants  of  Beirut  and  has  many  handsome  villas. 
Pop.  2500.  The  Jesuits  have  a  station  and  school  here.  The  view 
of  the  plain  of  the  coast  is  magnificent;  immediately  below  us  is  the 
fertile  Wddi  Shahrur,  with  the  villages  of  Bestls  (the  Gotham  of  the 
Lebanon),   Wddi  Shahrur,  and  Kafr  Shimd. 

The  road  goes  on  to  the  S.  along  the  hill.  Beyond  Bemekkin 
(small  hotel)  it  forks,  the  left  branch  leading  to  (10  min.)  Suk 
el-dharb  (Arab  Locanda) ,  with  2000  inhab.  and  many  summer- 
residences  of  natives  from  Beirut.  The  road  to  the  right  leads  to 
(1  hr.)  'Ain  'Anub,  an  English  mission-station.  Thence  we  descend 
in  windings  to  (1^2  nr)  t'ie  thriving  Druse  village  of  Esh-Shuweifdt 
(Turkish  Telegraph  Office).  We  leave  the  beautifully  situated  Greek 
Catholic  monastery  of  Deir  tl-Karkafth  to  the  right,  cross  the  Wadi 
IShahrur  (see  above),  and  reach  (1  hr.)  El-liadeth  (rail,  station, 
pp.  292,  279). 


IV.  THE  LEBANON.  CENTRAL  SYRIA, 


Route  Page 

3(3.  From  Sidon  to  Hasbeiya  and  Rasheiya.    Mt.  Hermon  285 

From  Kalfat  esh-Shakif  to  Beirut 286 

From  Beit  Laya  to  rAin  Harsha, 288 

From  Rasheiya  to  Damascus : 

a.  Via  Deir  el-rAshair 290 

b.  Via  El-Katana 291 

37.  Railway  from  Beirut  to  Damascus 291 

38.  Damascus 294 

History 297 

Topography.    Population.    Administration 299 

Walk  through  the  Bazaars 301 

Walk  through  the  Meidan  and  round  the  City  Walls 

(Christian  Quarter) 309 

The  Omayyade  Mosque  and  its  Neighbourhood   .    .    .  313 
Excursions : 

To  Es-Salehiyeh  and  to  the  Jebel  Kasyun 316 

To  Jobar  '. '.  ' 317 

To  the  Meadow  Lakes 317 

39.  From  Damascus  to  Ba'albek 318 

a.  Railway  via  Reyak 318 

b.  Bridle  Route  via  Ez-Zebedaiu 318 

From  Damascus  to  Ez-Zebedani  via  Helbun     ....  319 

Ba'albek ' 320 

Environs  of  Ba'albek  (Ras  el-'Ain) 326 

40.  From  Ba'albek  to  Tripoli  and  Beirut  via  the  Cedars  of 
Lebanon 327 

From   the  Cedars  to  Ehden  via,  Bsherreh  and  Kannobin  33t> 

From  Ma'amiltein  to  the  Nahr  el-Kelb  via  Gha'zir      .     .  335 

From  the  Cedars  to  Beirut  via,  Bsherreh  and  Afka    .     .  336 

41.  From  Damascus  (or  Horns)  to  Palmyra 337 

From  Palmyra  to  Damascus  via,  Nebk  and  Seidnaya  .    .  348 

From  Palmyra  to  Riblah " 349 

From  Palmyra  to  Ba'albek 350 

From  Palmyra  to  Ed-Deir 350 


36.    From  Sidon  to  Hasbeiya  and  Rasheiya. 
Mount  Hermon. 

From  Sidon  to  Rasheiya  ca.  lG'/a  hrs.  To  Jitr  el-KhardeH  ca.  7  hrs.; 
HdsbeiyA  3'/2brs.;  R&sheiyA  6  hrs. 

Quitting  Sidon  by  the  S.E.  gate,  we  reach  (40  min.)  the  village 
of  Deir  Bettin,  (ca.  1  hr.)  the  Nahr  ez-Zaherdni,  and  (50  min.")  Khan 
Mohammed  'Ali ,  and  traverse  a  stony  tableland.  The  village  of 
Ziftd  remains  on  the  right.    The  road  then  leads  to  (ca.  21/2  hrs.) 

Baedeker's  Palestine  and  Syria.    4th  Edit.  18 


•SrafSrapSaS» 


Bl 


286   flouie  36. 


JEZZIN. 


From  <Si<ion 


the  large  Metawileh  village  of  En-Nabapyeh,  where  tho  carriage- 
road  ends.    IV2  hr.  'j4rni2n. 

Ahout  20  min.  to  the  S.,  on  a  precipitous  rock  rising  ahove 
the  ravine  (1500  ft.  deep)  of  the  Litani,  stands  the  castle  of  Kal'at 
esh-Shakif  (2345  ft.  ahove  the  sea- level),  which  commands  the 
mountain-pass  from  Sidon  to  Damascus. 

The  castle  is  first  mentioned  in  1179  as  a  stronghold  of  the  Christians. 
It  was  called  Belfort  by  the  Crusaders.  In  1196  the  garrison  was  forced 
to  surrender  to  Saladin.  In  1210  the  castle  was  purchased,  along  with 
Sidon,  by  the  Templars,  but  it  was  taken  from  them  again  in  1280. 
Finally  it  was  restored  by  Fakhreddin  (p.  278)  in  the  17th  century. 

On  the  S.  and  W.  sides  the  castle  is  protected  by  a  moat  hewn 
in  the  rock  to  a  depth  of  50-120  ft.  On  the  S.  side  only  it  is  con- 
nected  with  a  narrow  mountain-ridge.  The  entrance  is  on  the  S.E. 
side.  The  building  is  130  yds.  long  (from  N.  to  S.)  and  33  yds. 
wide.  At  the  N.  end  the  rock  projects  23  yds.  towards  the  E.  The 
court  on  the  E.  side  is  ahout  16  yds.  wide,  and  the  outworks  are 
ahout  the  same  width.  The  walls  slope  outwards  to  a  distance  of 
6-10  yds.  The  S.  wall  was  defended  by  two  semicircular  towers. 
There  is  no  trace  of  any  building  here  earlier  than  the  later  Roman 
period.  Most  of  the  remains  are  mediaeval  Saracenic.  In  the  centre 
of  the  E.  side  is  a  mediaeval  chapel.  —  The  *Vikw  is  magnificent. 
Far  below  is  the  Litani,  a  mountain-torrent  of  green  water,  dashing 
over  its  rocky  bed.  On  the  opposite  slope,  which  is  less  precipitous, 
lie  several  villages  emhosomed  in  foliage.  Beyond  the  plain  of 
Merj  'Ayfin  (p.  287)  towers  Mt.  Hermon,  adjoining  which  is  the 
stronghold  of  Kal'at  Es-Subeibeh  (p.  260).  Towards  the  S.  lies  the 
hilly  country  of  Naphtali  as  far  as  the  neighbourhood  of  Safed.  Onj 
the  right  rises  the  Jebel  Jermak;  Hunin  (p.  258)  is  also  visible.  To 
the  N.E.  we  look  up  the  valley,  above  which  rises  the  Jebel  er-Rihan. 

From  'Arnfin  we  descend  in  40  min.  to  the  Jisr  el-Khardeli,  a 
bridge  across  the  Litani,  near  which  is  the  best  camping-ground 
in  the  neighbourhood. 

Fkom  Kal'at  esii-Shakif  to  BeieOt.  This  beautiful  but  fatiguing] 
tour  cannot  well  be  undertaken  earlier  than  the  middle  of  May  (guide 
necessary).  The  scenery  is  very  characteristic  of  Syria.  —  Starting  from] 
the  Jitr  el-Khardeli  (see  above),  we  follow  the  W.  bank  of  the  Llt&ni.  Enter-J 
ing  the  WMi  Jermuk.,  we  reach  in  l'/shr.  the  Druse  village  of  that  name. J 
After  V2  "r-  we  pass  on  the  left  the  ruins  of  El-Afedtneh,  and  in  1  hr.  more 
cross  the  Nahr  ez-Zaherdni  (p.  285).  We  then  ascend  to  (40  min.)  the  J 
considerable  Christian  village  of  Jerjti'a.  In  1  hr.  we  reach  Jebd'a,  with  aj 
modern  castle;   in  1  hr.  25  min.  Zdhalteh;  and  in  ca.  50  min.  Jezzin. 

Jezzin,  now  the  seat  of  a  Kaimmakam,  was  named  in  medifeval  times 
Casale  de  Oezin.     The  Christians   who    compose  the  entire  population  are] 
chiefly  occupied    with   the   vine   and    silk  culture.     At  the  foot  of  a  rockj 
(650  ft.  in  height)  behind  the  town  flows  the  Nahr  el-'Auwali,  the  Bostrc 
ma  of  the  ancients.    >  fatiguing  path  ascenda  this  cliff  to  ;■.  plain  U/4  M 
in  width,   beyond   which  rises  the  lofty   Tdmdt  Nihd  (6070  ft.).    Or.  the] 
summit  (U/2  hr.)  arc  the  ruins  of  a  temple.  —  About  5  min.  to  the  N.  ofl 
Jezzin  the  'Auwali  falls  to  a  depth  of  130  ft.  over  an  amphitheatre  of  rocks. 
This  river  separates  the  districts  of  Teffdh  and  Jezzin,  to  the  E.  of  Teft'ah,J 
from  that  of  KhornUb,  situated  farther  to  the  N. 

From  Jezzin  we  descend  the  brook  for  about  50  min.,  passing  a  numbeij 


h 

Scale  of  l".  soo.ooo 


'      —  ■      —g^gf^tr,],    '  ' 

RJi  i'm    Stations  of  the  Great  Road  between 
Beiiit  and  Khtora. 
.;.  KIim.  Jenihir  1XS0  Ftet 

Shekk  Xaanixtd    ZHO 
Mu  l>o}Jian  3Z22 

M-Kore\-e/i  3SVt 

Sue-set  A-famra  SSS7    ■■ 
'Ain-Sofar  UM     ■ 


Mil 


YJerij 
Muni,! 
El  .Vrejdl 


t*03 


i)*4*  «w  XainuAi 


RcuDdmur 


Khan.  «J -Jl/alUaf'       JfnBluirvQ      . 

*  ; 


:RBostrenus, 


Xu~TeJlsel-Bun 


/}    j    .  l.cl.biM 


Horaf end 


Vi 


ZuhtfeJ) 
t&fnfarapen 

Pitch   C/5  >-*      &tluir~  ^o~- 

,,- -^nrr.ih,  <  Kg-.,    ^.u^y.     Jf^l^fHi-flB/Sn 


T-V 


ofe 


s  JJatrebeh 


»7l-      ^ 


'  •  i,  ,.  ,■  i  -■" 

Btdiij&ti 


',> 


JKal'Mjt%m         \  "h'll'eA 


<NK  Jfo/V./nv/i 
.Ibayeh.        \       u 


( 


EwKSSaScra  mm 


to  Rdsheiyd. 


HASBEIYA. 


36.  Route.   287 


of  villages.  At.  the  point  where  the  'Auwali  (p.  286)  unites  with  the 
B&rdk  stand  four  columns  of  Egyptian  granite,  4  ft.  thick  and  13  ft.  high. 
Proceeding  up  the  river  on  its  left  bank,  we  next  reach  (25  min.)  Bdtir 
and  (1  hr.  10  min.)  Hdret  el-Jeneidleh,  and  then  proceed  past  'Ain  Mattir 
and  'Ain  Kanya  (on  the  right)  to  (50  min.)  El-Mukhtdra,  the  Casale  Maktara 
of  the  Crusaders,  situated  on  a  lofty  mountain-spur  at  the  confluence  of 
the  'Auwali  with  the  Khardbeh,  which  comes  from  the  E.  The  large  vil- 
lage contains  schools  of  the  British  Syrian  Mission.  The  carriage-road 
hence  leads  via  El-Jedeideh,  'Ain  es-SAk,  and  SAkaniyeh  to  (5  M.)  — 

Beit  erf-Din  or  Bteddin  (Arab  Locdnda;  Turkish  Telegraph  Office),  the 
seat  in  summer  of  the  government  of  Lebanon  (winter-seat  at  Barabda, 
see  p.  292).  It  contains  a  small  garrison.  The  Castle,  a  restored  palace 
of  the  Emir  Beshir  (see  p.  288),  with  its  numerous  courts,  gardens,  colon- 
nades, baths,  etc.,  is  finely  situated  and  worth  visiting  (previous  per- 
mission from  the  pasha  necessary).  —  About  2'/2  M.  to  the  S.  of  Beit 
ed-Din,  by  carriage-road,  lies  Ba'aklin  (Turkish  Telegraph  Office),  an 
important  place  inhabited  by  Druses. 

From  Beit  ed-Din  a  carriage-road  leads  in  a  wide  curve  to  (1  hr.)  — 
Deir  el-Kamar,  the  'monastery  of  the  moon''  (5000  Maronite  inhab.), 
a  Mudiriyeh  immediately  subject  to  the  Governor.  It  contains  a  modest 
Locanda  and  a  Turkish  Telegraph  Office.  The  Serai  is  an  ancient  palace 
of  Fakhreddin  (p.  278).  The  village  (2830  ft.  above  the  sea-level)  is  sur- 
rounded by  luxuriantly  fertile  and  well-cultivated  terraces.  The  vine  and 
silk  culture  are  carried  on  here,  and,  as  throughout  the  whole  district,  silk- 
stuffs  and  embroidery  are  manufactured.  —  Public  conveyances  ply  daily 
in  summer  between  Deir  el-Kamar  and  Beirut  (8  hrs.)-  The  road  leads 
in  many  windings  to  (2  hrs.)  the  bridge  over  the  copious  Nahr  el-Kddi,  and 
thence  ascends  via,  Mhdla  and  Deif-un  (fine  views)  to  (l3/4  kr.)'Aindb,  which 
has  about  1000  inhabitants.  A  short  digression  may  be  made  to  the  large 
educational  institution  of  the  American  missionaries  in  'Abeih.  From  rAinab 
we  descend  in  20  min.  to  Shumldn,  3/t  hr.  beyond  which  we  reach  'Ain 
'Antib,    Thence  to  Beirut,  see  p.  284. 

From  Jisr  el-Khardeli  we  first  ride  to  the  N.  to  the  (l1^  hr.) 
large  village  of  El-Jedcideh,  which  possesses  a  school  of  the  Ameri- 
can mission,  and  then  to  the  E.  to  (1  hr.)iSwfc  cl-Khdn.  The  green 
tract  of  Mcrj  'Aijun  lies  on  onr  right  (the  Ijon  of  1  Kings  xv.  20). 
The  road  now  leads  to  the  N.,  following  the  course  of  the  Nahr  el- 
Hdsbani,  to  (3/4  hr.)  a  bridge,  and  thence  to  C/2  hr.)  — 

Hisbeiyft,  (2280  ft.;  Turkish  Telegraph  Office),  a  small  town 
with  6000  inhab.  (4000  Christians),  situated  on  the  W.  side  of  an 
amphitheatre  of  hills,  from  which  a  brook  descends  to  the  Nahr  el- 
Ildshdril  (p.  258).  The  American  Mission  and  the  British  Syrian 
Mission  have  a  church  and  schools  here.  On  both  sides  of  the  valley 
are  terraces  luxuriantly  planted  with  olives  and  vines.  The  grapes 
are  either  converted  into  raisins  or  into  syrup  (dibs).  Hasbeiya  is 
supposed  to  be  the  ancient  Baal  Gad,  which  lay  at  the  foot  of  Her- 
mon  (Josh.  xi.  17,  etc.).  The  castle,  once  occupied  by  the  Druse 
emirs  of  the  Shihab  family  (p.  288),  is  now  in  possession  of  the 
Turkish  authorities.  —  In  the  environs  of  Hasbeiya  are  numerous 
bitumen  pits,  which  are  let  by  government.  Near  the  source  of 
the  Hasbani,  '/2  hr.  to  the  N.,  the  ground  is  partly  of  a  volcanic 
character. 

The  Wddi  et-Teim  has  always  been  the  headquarters  of  the  Druse 
6ect  (p.  lxxiii),  as  its  founder  Ed-Darazi  is  said  to  have  lived  here. 

18* 


*S»SW?/?s/*.?5f  mHHHHHlllM 


HI 


288  iJoute  36. 


RASHER' A. 


About  20  min.  above  Hasbeiya  is  the  Khalwet  cl-Biyad,  a  central 
shrine  of  the  sect. 

The  Histoet  of  the  Dbuses  (p.  Ixxiii)  during  the  last  two  centuries 
consists  chiefly  of  a  narrative  of  the  party-struggles  of  various  powerful 
noble  families.  After  the  expulsion  in  1694  of  the  Ma'anide  family,  to 
which  Fakhreddin  (p.  278)  belonged,  the  Shihab  family  got  the  upper  hand. 
The  most  eminent  member  of  that  family  was  Emir  Beshir  (1789-1840),  who 
established  himself  at  Deir  el-Kamar  with  the  aid  of  Sir  Sidney  Smith, 
the  admiral  of  the  British  flee't,  and  allied  himself  more  closely  with 
Ibrahim  Pasha  (p.  lxxxv)  with  a  view  to  strengthen  his  hands  against  his 
antagonist  the  Sheikh  beshir  at  Mukhtara,  of  the  Jambelat  family.  He 
privately  professed  to  be  a  convert  to  the  Maronite  church,  in  order  to 
ensure  the  support  of  the  clergy,  but  he  did  not  venture  to  favour  the 
Christians  openly.  With  the  help  of  the  Egyptians ,  he  suppressed  a 
revolt  fomented  "by  Sheikh  Beshir  and  caused  the  Sheikh  himself  to  be 
slain.  The  struggles  between  the  Maronites  and  the  Druses,  however, 
continued.  When  the  Druses  were  afterwards  armed  by  the  allies  of 
Turkey  for  the  purpose  of  revolting  against  the  Egyptians,  Emir  Reshir 
remained  faithful  to  the  latter,  and  was  banished  to  Malta  at  the  age  of 
eighty  years.  Anarchy  now  prevailed  in  this  mountain  region.  In  1841 
the  Druses  revolted  and  defeated  the  army  of  the  Maronites.  The  Turkish 
government  rejoiced  to  see  the  rival  sects  thus  destroying  one  another, 
but  in  1843  the  chief  authority  was  so  divided  that  the  Maronites  and 
Druses  each  had  a  sheikh  of  their  own.  This  distribution  of  power,  how- 
ever, led  to  new  disturbances.  In  1859  a  revolt  broke  out  among  the 
Maronites,  and  the  government  availed  itself  of  this  opportunity  for  dis- 
arming the  Christians  of  the  Lebanon  and  exposed  them  to  the  fury  of 
the  murderous  Druses  (p.  299). 

Beyond  Hasbeiya  the  road  crosses  a  small  valley  to  the  N.  hy  a 
bridge,  and  ascends  to  the  top  of  the  hill  (*/4  hr.).  It  then  leads  to 
(1  hr.)  Mimis  and  (3/*  hr.)  Kufeir  (with  a  'khalweh'  or  Druse  chapel). 
In  20  min.  it  reaches  the  top  of  the  hill,  which  it  follows  to  the  right. 
To  the  left  below  is  seen  the  Wadi  et-Teim  (p.  287;  40  min.).  Wa 
then  descend  (25  min.),  leaving  Es-Seflneh  on  the  right,  and  enter 
the  mountains  towards  the  £.,  in  the  direction  of  Beit  Laya  (1  hr.). 

About  40  min.  to  the  S.  of  Beit  Laya  lies  'Ain  Harthd,  20  min.  above 
which  stands  one  of  the  best -preserved  temples  of  the  Hermon  districts 
It  is  'in  antis\  facing  the  E.,  39  ft.  long,  26  ft.  wide,  and  19  ft.  high  froni 
platform  to  cornice.  The  pronaos  is  8  ft.  by  19  ft.,  and  the  cella  26  ft.  bj 
16  ft.  The  W.  side  of  the  cella  is  4i/«  ft.  higher  than  the  others.  Theri 
are  here  four  pedestals  with  columns  built  into  the  wall.  The  bases  oi 
these  are  Attic,  the  capitals  Ionic.  Above  is  a  cornice  running  round  tha 
wall  of  the  cella;  on  each  side  are  two  lions'  heads  with  a  tiger's  head 
between  them.  The  roof  of  the  temple  has  fallen  in.  The  building  stands 
on  a  basement  which  is  71/2  ft.  high  on  the  W.  side.  It  possesses  a 
beautifully  enriched  gate,  on  one  side  of  which  is  a  niche.  In  the  tyraJ 
panum  at  the  W.  end  is  a  bas-relief  bust  of  a  woman  with  two  small 
horns  (comp.  p.  264). 

To  the  N.  of  Beit  Laya  we  next  reach  C/2  hr.)  Bkeiyif'eh  and 
(35  min.,  bad  road)  — 

Rasheiya.  The  village  (Turkish  Telegraph  Office)  lias  abouj 
3000  inliab.,  including  a  few  Protestants,  and  rises  in  terraces  oh 
a  steep  slope  in  the  midst  of  orchards.  Towards  the  S.,  above  thl 
lofty  castle,  Hermon  rears  its  majestic  head. 


MOUNT  HERMON. 


36.  Route.    289 


Mount  Hermon  (Jebel  esh-Sheikh).    ***"  f1 


The  Ascent  of  Hermon  cannot  be  undertaken  before  May.  The  ex- 
pedition requires  a  whole  day  (ascent  7  hrs.,  descent  6  hrs.)  and  is  very 
fatiguing.  The  start  should  be  made  before  sunrise.  The  usual  starting 
points  are  Hasbeiya,  (p.  287)  and  Rasheiya  (p.  288).  A  guide  (6-8  fr.)  is 
necessary.  Provisions  and  water  should  not  be  forgotten.  Those  who 
intend  to  spend  a  night  in  a  tent  on  the  top  should  take  a  supply  of  fuel. 
Travellers  must  see  on  the  previous  day  that  the  horses  and  their  gear  are 
lit  for  this  unusually  rough  work,  and  that  they  are  thoroughly  well  fed 
and  rested.  Luggage  should  be  sent  to  the  place  to  which  the  descent  is 
to  be  made. 

In  Arabic  Mt.  Hermon  is  called  Jebel  esh-Sheikh,  i.  t.  'mountain  of  the 
white-haired1,  or  Jebel  el-Telj,  'snow -mountain'.  The  Sidonians  called 
Hermon  '■Sin'ora',  and  perhaps  the  name  Shenir  (Deut.  iii.  9)  was  applied 
to  part  of  Hermon  only.  As  a  landmark  of  Palestine,  and  indeed  of  Syria 
also,  Jit.  Hermon  is  frequently  mentioned  in  the  Old  Testament.  It  was 
a  holy  mountain,  and  numerous  ancient  temples  situated  on  and  near  the 
mountain  serve  as  a  memorial  of  the  ancient  worship.  The  Hebrews  ex- 
tolled its  majestic  height  (Psalm  lxxxix.  12).  They  valued  it,  too,  as  a 
collector  of  clouds  (Psalm  cxxxm.  3).  It  is  spoken  of  as  a  haunt  of  wild 
beasts  (Song  of  Sol.  iv.  8),  and  its  snow  was  used  in  ancient  times,  accord- 
to  St.  Jerome  (comp.  Prov.  xxv.  13),  as  at  the  present  day,  for  cooling 
the  beverages  of  the  wealthy.  It  extends  from  N.E.  to  S.W.  for  a  distance 
of  about  20  M.  Its  rock-formation  is  hard  limestone,  covered  at  places 
with  soft  chalk,  while  basalt  makes  its  appearance  in  the  S.  spurs  and  near 
Hasbeiya.  Crystals  of  calcareous  spar  are  occasionally  found.  Hermon  is 
separated  from  Anti-Libanus  by  a  ravine  on  the  N.  side.  In  winter  the 
mountain  is  covered  with  heavy  masses  of  snow,  and  even  in  summer 
patches  of  snow  are  to  be  found  in  shaded  hollows.  Bears  are  still  fre- 
quently seen  on  Mt.  Hermon ;  the  species  is  called  'TJrsus  Syriacus',  but 
it  resembles  the  brown  bear  of  other  countries.  Foxes,  wolves,  and  various 
kinds  of  game  also  abound.  The  industrial  crops  are  the  same  as  in  other 
mountain-districts  of  Syria,  and  the  culture  of  the  vine,  which  above 
Rasheiya  ascends  to  a  height  of  4725  ft.,  is  of  considerable  importance. 
Above  the  cultivated  land  are  a  few  thin  and  scattered  groups  of  oaks 
(Quercus  cenis,  Look  <fe  Mellul).  About  500  ft.  above  the  vines  begins  an 
xtensive  growth  of  tragacanth  bushes  with  prickly  leaves,  and  at  a  height 
of  3770-5420  ft.  several  edible  wild  fruits  occur.  The  almond  abounds, 
and  is  the  commonest  tree  on  the  W.  slopes  of  the  mountain  at  this  con- 
siderable height,  whence  this  region  is  sometimes  called  'Akabel  el-L6zeh 
(almond  mountain).  There  are  three  kinds  of  almond-trees,  two  large 
plum3,  a  cherry,  and  a  pear.  If  the  explorer  proceeds  from  Rasheiya  in 
the  direction  of  Hasbeiya,  through  the  'Akabet  el-Jenina  to  the  Jebel  Khdn, 
he  will  meet  with  a  dense  growth  of  two  interesting  conifers,  viz.  the 
thin- branched  Juniperus  excelsa  M.  Bieb,  or  dwarf  tree-juniper,  and  the 
Juniperus  dvupacea  Lahill,  a  much  rarer  shrub.  The  latter,  called  dufr&n 
by  the  Arabs,  bears  berries  as  large  as  plums  with  blue  streaks.  Above 
this  scattered  but  very  interesting  growth  of  trees  we  find  a  poor  and 
insignificant,  growth  of  prickly  and  other  shrubs,  all  belonging  to  the  flora 
of  the  Oriental  steppes,  some  of  which,  however,  are  peculiar  to  this  region, 
as  Astragalus  Acantholimon ,  Coiisinia,  and  others.  Near  the  snow -fields 
occurs  also  the  Ranunculus  demissus.  On  the  S.  side  of  the  mountain,  which 
is  greener  than  the  others,  occur  large  patches  of  the  large  umbelliferous 
sttkerdn,  a  kind  of  ferula. 

From  Hasbeiya,  we  ascend  the  opposite  slope  of  the  valley  to 
(J/2  hr.)  'Ain  Kanya  and  ('/$  hr.)  Shuweiyd,  and  reach  (^  hr.)  the 
atershed  between  the  wooded  Wadi  Beni  Hasan  on  the  left  and 
the  Wadi  el- Hibbdriyeh  on  the  right.  Passing  the  ruins  of  Khirbet 
Shuweiyd,  we  reach  ('/4  ^r0»  on  tne  ^e^>  tne  Mughdret  Shuweiyd, 
>r  ancient  tomb-caverns  of  Shuweiya.    The  ascent  of  the  height 


j~?(p 


290  Route  36. 


MOUNT  IIERMON. 


which  conceals  Mt.  Hermon  from  view  is  fatiguing.  Beyond  it  we 
enter  the  Wddi  'Ain  'Atd,  and  now  see  the  summits  of  the  moun- 
tain before  us.  In  about  3  hrs.  we  reach  the  crest  of  the  mountain 
and  follow  it  towards  the  N.  to  the  (lV-2  ur-)  barren  summit. 

Mount  Hermon  culminates  in  three  peaks,  consisting  partly  of 
rubble;  the  northern  and  southern,  about  500  paces  apart,  are  each 
about  9050 ft.  in  height;  the  western,  about  100  ft.  lower,  is  separ- 
ated from  the  others  by  a  small  valley,  and  is  700  paces  distant 
from  them.  On  the  S.  peak,  are  some  ruins  (called  Kasr  'Antar), 
probably  belonging  to  a  temple  which  is  mentioned  by  St.  Jerome. 
On  the  summit  is  a  hollow,  bounded  by  an  oval  enclosure  of  stones 
which  are  placed  close  together.  The  well-hewn  blocks  are  inserted 
in  the  uneven  surface  of  rubble  or  rock.  To  the  S.  of  this  elliptical 
enclosure  stood  a  building,  now  entirely  destroyed,  which  was  prob- 
ably a  sacellum  (a  small  sanctuary  without  a  roof).  The  rock  which 
formed  the  foundation  has  been  hewn  for  the  purpose.  To  the  N.E. 
is  a  rock-cavern  with  traces  of  columns. 

The  *View  is  of  vast  extent,  embracing  a  great  part  of  Syria.  In 
the  distance,  to  the  S.,  we  see  the  mountains  of 'Ajlun  extending 
towards  Moab,  then  the  Jordan,  with  the  lakes  of  Tiberias  and 
Huleh,  to  the  W.  of  which  are  Samaria  and  Galilee  extending  to- 
wards Carmel,  and  the  Mediterranean  from  Carmel  to  Tyre;  next  to 
this  part  of  the  landscape  rises  the  range  of  Lebanon  in  a  wide  curve 
from  Jebel  er-Rihan  and  Jebel  Keneiseh  to  the  lofty  peaks  of  the 
Sannin  (p.  283)  and  the  Makmal  to  the  N. ;  between  these  lies  the 
valley  of  the  Litani,  from  Kalrat  esh-Shakif  upwards,  extending  far 
into  the  plain  of  El-Bikar  (p.  292);  we  next  perceive  Anti-Libanus ; 
to  the  N.W.  stretches  the  plain  of  Damascus,  as  far  as  the  'meadow 
lakes',  to  the  S.  of  which  rise  Jebel  el-Aswad  and  Jebel  el-Mauic 
(p.  151");  next  to  these  is  seen  the  whole  range  of  the  Hauran,  in 
front  of  which  are  El-Lejah  and  Jeidur.  In  the  foreground,  to  the 
W.,  lies  the  Wadi  'Ain  fAta,  to  the  E.  the  Wadi  'Ami,  and  to  the 
S.E.  the  Wadi  Shitfa. 

The  descent  may  be  made  by  the  same  route  or  to  Rdsheiyd 
(4  hrs.,  guide  necessary). 

Another  route  (guide  necessary)  descends  from  the  summit  to  (4  hrs.) 
Kal'al  Jendel  on  the  E.  side.  This  village  contains  a  ruined  castle,  and 
iit  'Ami,  3  hrs.  to  the  S.S.W.,  are  the  ruins  of  a  temple.  From  KaFat 
Jendel  the  traveller  may  proceed  to  El-Katand,  near  Damascus  (p." 262), 
in  about  2'/«  hrs. 

From  Rasheiya  to  Damascus.  —  a.  Via  Deir  el-'Asuair  (guide  neces- 
sary). We  first  ride  in  1  hr.  to  Kafr  Kdk,  situated  at  the  E.  end  of  a 
basin-like  plain,  which  In  winter  forms  a  lake.  The  village  contains  a 
few  relics  of  antiquity.  After  10  min.  we  ascend  a  steep  hill  (E.N.E.), 
on  the  top  of  which  (20  min.)  we  traverse  a  furrowed  plateau.  Iu  about 
3/4  hr.  more  we  descend  into  the  valley.  After  20  min.  the  valley  turns 
towards  the  N.E.,  and  leads  to  (1  hr.)  Deir  el-'Ath&ir,  at  the  E.  end  of  a 
small  plain.  The  village  is  inhabited  by  Druses  and  Christians.  Among 
the  houses  stands  an  ancient  temple,  the  walls  of  which  are  preserved. 
From  Deir  el-cAshair  we  descend  to  the  plain  on  the  E.N.E.,  cross  (i/ahr.)  a 


RAKLEH. 


36.  Route.   291 


low  watershed,  and  reach  (i/zhr.)  Khdn  Meithel&n.  on  the  post-road.  Thence 
we  proceed  to  (lO'/s  M.)  El-Hami  (p.  294)  and  (6V2  M.  farther)  Damascus. 

D.  Via  El-Katana  (guide  necessary).  We  cross  a  narrow  plateau  to 
the  E.,  obtain  ('1/4  hr.)  a  view  of  the  deep  basin  of  the  plain  of  Kafr  KUk 
(p.  290),  and  reach  (1/4  hr.)  'Aihd.  To  the  N.  of  the  village  once  stood 
a  temple,  of  which  few  remains  are  left.  After  IV4  hr.  (to  the  N.E.)  we 
come  to  the  top  of  Elh-Thughra  ('hollow  way'),  pass  some  ruins,  and  in 
11/*  hr.  reach  Rakleh.  The  village  stands  in  a  small  plain,  5010  ft.  above 
the  sea-level,  and  is  surrounded  by  ruins.  Two  temples  once  stood  here. 
The  higher,  situated  in  the  village,  is  completely  ruined  (several  Greek 
inscriptions).  The  other,  better  preserved,  is  about  100  paces  below  the 
village,  to  the  N.E.  It  is  noteworthy  that  this  temple  faced  Mt.  Hermon 
towards  the  W.,  while  the  other  temples  around  the  mountain  face  the  E. 
Outside  the  S.  wall,  near  the  S.E.  corner,  is  a  large  block  of  stone,  on 
which  there  is  a  kind  of  medallion  with  a  face  in  relief,  surrounded  by 
flames  (possibly  the  sun-god);  to  it  belongs  the  figure  of  an  eagle  with 
outspread  wings,  carved  on  a  stone  that  has  been  broken  away ;  the  whole 
is  probably  from  the  architrave  of  the  temple.  There  are  also  a  few 
rock-tombs  at  Rakleh.  —  From  Rakleh  to  El-Katand  about  4  hrs.;  thence 
to  Damascus,  see  p.  262. 

About  1  hr.  20  min.  to  the  S.W.  of  Rakleh  are  situated  the  ruins  of 
Burkush,  5203  ft.  above  the  sea-level.  The  most  interesting  part  of  them 
is  the  skilfully  executed  substructure  of  a  large  platform,  about  52i/2  yds. 
long  (from  N.W.  to  S.E.)  and  39  yds.  wide.  On  the  S.  side  the  wall  is 
39  ft.  high;  on  the  N.  side  the  rock  has  been  artificially  levelled.  A  large 
chamber,  1 71/2  yds.  wide,  extends  along  the  whole  length  of  the  substructure. 
Above  it  is  a  series  of  arches,  of  segment  shape  in  the  inside.  Adjacent 
are  several  chambers ,  one  of  which  seems  to  have  been  used  as  a  bath. 
A  large  Byzantine  basilica  seems  once  to  have  stood  on  the  platform, 
perhaps  on  the  site  of  an  earlier  edifice.  Many  capitals  of  different  forms 
lie  scattered  around.  —  About  58  yds.  to  the  N.  of  this  building  are  the 
ruins  of  another,  evidently  once  adapted  for  use  as  a  Christian  church,  but 
the  original  purpose  of  which  is  unknown.  We  may  now  descend  hence 
to  El-Katana  (near  Damascus;  p.  262)  in  3!/2  hrs. 


>wi*fcy 


37.   Railway  from  Beirut  to  Damascus.^c^'  ^i'  15^- 


91 M.  Railway  of  the  SociUi  Ottvmane  des  Chemins  de  Fer  de  Damas,  ffamd, 
el  Prolongemenls,  opened  in  1895.  There  is  one  passenger-train  daily  in 
each  direction  (from  Beirut  Harbour  at  7  a.m.,  from  Damascus  Beramkeh  at 
8.30  a.m.)  and  also  one  'mixed'  train  (from  BeirOt  at  5  p.m.,  from  Damascus 
at  6.45  p.m.).  —  From  Beirut  (passenger  train)  to  (2  hrs.  11  min.)  s/leih,  fares 
18  pi.,  12  pi. ;  to  (51/4  hrs.)  Reydk,  51  pi.  30,  34  pi.  20;  to  (7  hrs.)  Ez-Zebeddni, 
75  pi.  30,  50  pi.  20;  to  (9  hrs.)  Damascus  (Beramkeh  Station),  110  pi.  10, 
75  piastres.  The  mixed  train  takes  12-14  hrs.  —  As  the  time-table  is  liable 
to  alteration^  travellers  should  make  enquiries  at  the  hotels  as  to  the  de- 
parture of  the  trains.  —  Luggage  must  be  at  the  station  not  less  than 
V4  hr.  before  the  departure  of  the  train.  —  Travellers  are  strongly  recom- 
mended to  have  the  exact  fare  in  readiness.  For  the  rate  of  exchange, 
comp.  p.  275.  —  The  carriages  are  more  comfortable  than  those  of  the 
Jaffa  and  Jerusalem  line,  but  are  still  capable  of  improvement.  European 
travellers  are  recommended  not  to  travel  in  the  third-class  carriages, 
though  even  ladies  may  make  use  of  the  second  class  without  fear.  — 
A  halt  of  V2  hr.  is  made  at  Reydk  (buffet)  for  dinner.  Fruit  and  other 
refreshments  are  offered  for  sale  at  several  other  stations. 

The  railway  is  a  narrow-gauge  line,  with  20  M.  of  Abt's  rack- 
and-pinion  system  in  the  mountainous  parts  of  the  first  30  M.  In 
the  Lebanon  it  generally  follows  the  diligence-route.  Most  travellers 
start  from  the  Harbour  Station  at  Beirut  (p.  275).    The  line  at  first 


ana    ftS|W$!  MR 


k&t#*±?M**i,       ki'AX}.* 


292    Route  37. 


EL-MU'ALLAKA. 


From  Tieirili 


skirts  the  sea-coast  and  then  turns  inland  towards  the  main  railway 
station.  It  is  next  carried  across  the  Tripoli  road  by  a  viaduct,  then 
turns  towards  the  S.,  and  follows  the  course  of  the  Nahr  Beirut 
(p.  2S0).  At  Bustem  Pasha's  Garden  (p.  279)  it  crosses  the  carriage- 
road  to  Damascus  and  proceeds  to  the  S.  on  a  level  course  to  (4'/2  M.) 
El-Hadeth.  Thence  the  line,  turning  to  the  E.,  ascends  steadily.  — 
51/2  M.  Ba'abdd  (795  ft.),  the  winter-residence  of  the  Governor  of 
the  Lebanon  (p.  lvii),  who  occupies  the  old  but  remodelled  chateau  of 
the  Emir,  to  the  W.  of  the  village  (summer-residence  at  Beit  ed-Din, 
see  p.  287).  Ba'abda  affords  a  fine  view  of  Beirut  and  St.  George's 
Bay.  —  772M.  Jemhur,  beyond  which  the  road  is  once  more  crossed. 
—  Near  (lO1^  M.)  'Areiyd  (p.  284)  is  a  short  tunnel.  The  line  de- 
scribes a  wide  curve  and  doubles  back  on  its  track  in  a  loop,  affording 
as  the  direction  changes  continuous  pretty  views  of  the  coast  and 
of  the  nearer  and  well-cultivated  Wddi  Shahrur.  —  13  M.  'Aleih 
(p.  284);  17  M.  Behamddn;  19  M.  'Ain  Sofar.  To  the  left  is  the 
green  ravine  of  the  Wddi  Hammdna.  Vegetation  gradually  ceases 
and  we  enter  a  bleak  region.  The  line  pierces  the  tunnels  of  Mudeirij 
(300  yds.)  and  Baidar  (Khdn  Murdd;  390  yds.),  reaching  its  highest 
level  (4880  ft.)  in  Lebanon  in  the  latter.  On  the  E.  side  we  descend 
to  (271/2  M.)  El-Mreijdt.  We  enjoy  a  fine  view  of  the  Jebel  Keneiseh, 
on  the  left,  and  of  the  Jebel  el-Bdruk,  on  the  right.  —  29  M.  El- 
JedUeh-Shtora  (J'ditah);  32*/2  M.  Saiyid-Ndyil  (Said  Neil). 

35  M.  El-Mu'allaka,  a  considerable  Muslim  village  belonging 
to  the  vilayet  of  Suriya,  and  containing  a  school  and  station  of  the 
British  Mission  and  a  Jesuit  settlement. 

To  the  N.W.  of  El-Mural)aka  and  separated  from  it  by  a  road  only 
lies  Zahleh  (3100  ft. ;  H6tel  Central*  near  the  bridge,  an  Arab  locanda  offering 
fair  accommodation ;  Turkish  Telegraph  Ofjice),  a  Christian  town  with  about 
15,000  inhah.,  schools  of  the  British  Syrian  Mission,  a  Jesuit  monastery  and 
church,  and  numerous  other  churches.  Zahleh  belongs  to  the  district  of 
Lebanon,  while  El-Mu'allaka  is  in  the  vilayet  of  Syria.  The  little  town 
nestles  among  woods,  and  winds  in  great  curves  along  both  banks  of  the 
brook  El-BavdAnt,  which  descends  through  a  ravine  from  the  Sannin.  It 
possesses  numerous  industries,  and  much  wine  is  grown  here.  In  i860 
the  inhabitants  suffered  much,  when  the  Druses  took  the  town. 

From  Zahleh  travellers  may  undertake  the  ascent  of  the  Sannin 
(8555  ft.;  p.  283)  with  good  guides;  the  ascent  is  steep  and  precipitous. 

Beyond  Mu'allaka  the  line  turns  to  the  E.  and  traverses  El-Bik&f 
('lowland'),  a  broad  valley,  resembling  a  tableland,  between  Le- 
banon and  Anti-Libanus.  Towards  the  S.  it  is  bounded  by  the 
spurs  of  the  Tomdt  Nthd  ('twins  of  Niha'),  through  the  rocks  of 
which  the  Nahr  el-Litdnt  forces  its  way  with  difficulty.  The  valley 
was  anciently  called  Coelesyria  ('hollow  Syria') ,  a  name  which, 
however,  is  generally  used  by  classical  authors  to  designate  all  the 
district  to  the  S.  of  Seleucia  (with  the  exception  of  Phoenicia), 
as  far  as  the  Desert  of  Mt.  Sinai.  The  Bikaf  is  much  less  richly 
cultivated  now  than  in  ancient  times.  —  The  train  crosses  the  Nahr 
el-Lit&ni. 

41  M.  Iteydlc  or  Rayah  (Buffet,  D.2i/2fr.),  where  a  halt  of  >/2  hr-  is 


to  Damascus. 


EZ-ZEBEDANI. 


37.  Route.    293 


miade.  Railway  hence  to  Ba'albek  and  Hama.  see  pp.  318,  364.  — 
The  line  now  enters  the  Anti-Libanus  and  follows  the  narrow  ravine 
of  the  W&di  Yahfufeh.  —  48»/2  M.  Yahfxifth.  The  valley  is  covered 
Trith  oaks,  plane-trees,  and  wild  rose-bushes,  and  its  sides  rise 
slheer  on  each  side.  The  train  runs  to  the  S.  E.  to  the  bridge  Jisr 
eir-Rummdneh  (4330  ft.),  then  turns  to  the  S.W.,  and  ascends  be- 
tween the  two  chains  of  the  Anti-Libanus  to  (oS1^  M.)  Sarghdyil 
(.Zerghaya;  comp.  p.  319),  on  the  watershed.  This  is  the  highest 
P'Oint  (4610  ft.)  attained  by  the  line  in  the  Anti-Libanus  and  com- 
miands  a  fine  mountain-view.  The  railway  descends  towards  the 
S.W.  to- 
61  M.  Ez-Zebedani  (3885  ft.),  the  capital  of  a  Kada,  situated 
in  the  midst  of  exuberant  vegetation.  It  has  6500  inhab.  (one-half 
of  them  Christians),  a  garrison,  and  a  Russian  school  for  boys.  The 
apples  of  Ez-Zebedani  are  famous  and  the  oval  grapes  are  common 
here.    There  are  no  antiquities. 

The  railway  now  runs  to  the  S.,  following  the  valley  of  the  Nahr 
Baradd  through  the  Plain  of  ez-Zebedani,  which  stretches  from  N. 
to  S.  between  mountains  of  considerable  height.  The  steep  range 
to  the  W.  is  the  Jebel  ez-Zebeddni.  The  plain,  which  was  probably 
once  a  large  lake,  is  nearly  3  M.  broad,  and  is  beautifully  culti- 
vated and  well  watered.  It  is  covered  with  apple,  apricot,  and 
walnut  trees,  poplars,  etc.,  and  many  of  the  gardens  are  enclosed  by 
green  hedges.  —  After  crossing  the  Barada,  the  train  passes  Et-Tek- 
ktyeh,  threads  a  short  tunnel,  and  reaches  — 

7172  M.  Suk  Wadi  Barada,  a  village  surrounded  by  orchards, 
and  situated  at  the  outlet  of  a  defile  which  the  stream  has  formed 
for  itself  between  precipitous  cliffs. 

The  village  occupies  the  site  of  the  ancient  Abila  Lysaniae  (mentioned 
by  Ptolemy,  etc.),  the  district  around  which  was  called  Abilene  and  is 
described  by  Josephus  as  the  tetrarchy  of  Lysanias.  St.  Luke  mentions  a 
certain  Lysanias  as  tetrarch  of  Abilene  in  the  fifteenth  year  of  Tiberius 
(iii.  1).  A  tetrarchy  of  Abilene  cannot  have  been  established  until  B.C.  4, 
when  the  inheritance  of  Herod  the  Great  was  divided.  It  was  afterwards 
presented  by  the  Roman  emperors  to  Agrippa  I.  and  II. 

Among  the  rocks  above  the  village  are  seen  a  number  of  Rock  Tombs. 
—  The  name  of  Abila  is  popularly  derived  from  'Abel',  and  on  the  hill 
to  the  W.  (right)  a  tradition  of  the  16th  cent,  points  out  the  Nebi  H&bil 
as  the  spot  where  Cain  (Kabil)  slew  Habil,  his  brother  (according  to 
the  Koran).  Adjacent  are  the  ruins  of  a  Temple,  about  15  yds.  long  and 
83/4  yds.  wide.  At  the  E.  end  of  the  temple  is  a  vaulted  tomb  with  steps 
in  the  rock  near  it.  —  Near  the  bridge,  10  min.  above  the  village,  and 
about  100  ft.  above  the  river,  on  the  left  bank,  is  an  Ancient  Road,  13-16  ft. 
wide,  hewn  in  the  rock  for  a  distance  of  300  paces.  At  places  a  ledge 
of  rock  has  been  left  to  form  a  parapet,  and  the  other  parts  of  the  road 
were  probably  protected  by  a  wall.  At  the  N.E.  end  the  road  terminates 
at  a  precipice,  whence  it  was  perhaps  carried  onwards  by  a  viaduct. 
Latin  inscriptions  on  the  rock  record  that  this  road  was  constructed  during 
the  reigns  of  the  emperors  Marcus  Aurelius  and  Lucius  Verus  (t.  e.  a  little 
after  the  middle  of  the  2nd  century).  A  few  paces  below  the  road  runs 
an  ancient  Aqueduct,  partly  hewn  in  the  rock  and  covered  with  obliquely 
placed  stones.  It  may  be  used  as  a  means  of  access  to  some  of  the 
rock-tombs. 


^^^H 


Route  38 


DAMASCUS. 


Beyond  Suk  Wadi  Barada  the  railway  runs  to  the  S.E.  to  [74  M.) 
Deir  Kanun  and  (76^2  M.)  fAin  Fijeh.  The  name  Fijeh  is  probably 
corrupted  from  the  Greek  TCTjf/]  (spring).  The  spring  here  is 
regarded  as  the  chief  source  of  the  Barada,  though  not  the  most 
distant  from  its  mouth,  as  it  supplies  that  stream  with  twice  as 
much  water  as  it  contains  before  it  is  thus  augmented. 

Above  the  caverns  containing  the  springs  rises  a  kind  of  platform, 
partly  of  rock  and  partly  of  masonry,  bearing  the  ruins  of  a  small  temple 
built  of  huge  blocks.  A  few  paces  to  the  S.  is  a  vaulted  chamber,  37'/v  ft. 
in  length  and  27  ft.  in  breadth,  of  which  only  the  walls  remain.  Niches 
are  visible  in  the  interior.  In  the  direction  of  the  river  was  once  a  portal. 
The  remains  of  this  venerable  shrine,  which  was  perhaps  dedicated  to 
the  river-god,  are  still  enclosed  by  a  grove  of  beautiful  trees. 

From  'Ain  Fijeh  the  railway  follows  the  river  to  — 
80  M.  EL-Judeideh  (J'deydch)  and  (82</2  M.)  El-Hdmi,  where  it 
once  more  reaches  the  carriage-road.  —  84!/2  M.  Dummar,  a  place 
consisting  of  villas.  We  soon  come  in  sight  of  the  distant  minarets 
of  Damascus.  On  the  left  rises  the  Jebel  Kazydn  (p.  316),  on  the 
right  the  hill  of  Kalabat  el-Mezzeh. 

S9l/i  M.  Damascus  Beramkeh,  on  the  W.  side  of  the  city,  where 
most  travellers  alight  (see  below).  The  train  goes  on,  skirting  the 
outside  of  the  city,  to  the  (91  M.)  principal  station  of  Damascus 
Meidan  (p.  156). 


38.    Damascus. 

Plans.  In  the  accompanying  text  PL  I  refers  to  the  adjoining  general 
plan  of  Damascus,  PL  II  to  that  of  the  central  part  of  the  city  (p.  301). 

Railway  Stations.  The  Beramkeh  Station  (PL  I,  C4;  see  above),  for 
Beirut,  is  situated  to  the  W.  of  the  town,  near  the  hotels.  —  The  Meidan 
Station  (Gare  du  Meidan ;  PL  I,  B  8),  the  principal  station  of  the  French 
line,  for  El-Muzeirib  and  Beirut,  lies  to  the  S.  of  the  Meidan  suburb 
(pp.  156,  309).  —  The  Kadem  Station  [VIA;  C,  8),  for  the  Hejaz  Railway 
(p.  151),  also  lies  to  the  8.  of  the  Meidan.  —  Cab  (see  below)  from  the 
Beramkeh  Station  to  the  hotels  6-8  pi.,  from  the  Meidan  and  Kadem 
Stations  l-l'/i  mej.  (stringent  bargaining  necessary). 

Hotels  (comp.  p.  vi).  Hotel  Victoeia  &  Damascus  Palace  Hotel 
(PL  II,  C  A;  landlord,  Pietro  Paulicevich,  a  Dalmatian),  Hotel  d'Obient 
(PL  II,  C  4;  landlords,  Kaouam  Freres),  two  establishments  near  the  Beram- 
keh Station  and  the  Serai,  pens.  12-15  fr.,  wine  extra  (more  when  travellers 
are  numerous).  A  reduction  is  made  by  both  hotels  after  the  season,  or 
for  a  prolonged  stay  (6-10  fr.  per  day).  Prices  should  be  agreed  on  before- 
hand. —  Bottle  of  Beer  2  fr.,  of  Wine  (of  Shtora)  3-5  fr.,  very  good. 

The  Arab  Cafes  of  Damascus  are  the  largest  in  the  East,  and  a  visit 
to  one  of  them  is  interesting.  Most  of  them  have  a  stream  flowing  past 
one  side.  They  consist  of  large  saloons  or  gardens  with  a  number  of 
diminutive  little  tables  and  still  smaller  chairs  or  benches,  on  which  the 
Damascene  sits  cross-legged,  smoking  his  nargileh  and  playing  back- 
gammon. Travellers  may  visit  the  Cafi  SOfaniyeh  (PL  I ;  F,  3)  and  the  garden- 
cafe's  along  the  Beirut  road  and  in  froiit  of  the  Bab  Tunia  (p.  3i2). 

Cabs  of  varying  quality  in  the  square  in  front  of  the  post-office.  Price : 
in  the  town  10-12  pi.  an  hour,  single  trip  6-7  pi.  Fares  rise  considerably 
during  the  season  and  on  holidays  when  the  demand  is  great ;  a  bargain 
should  always  be  made  in  advance  with  the  driver. 

Electric  Tramways  are  now  being  constructed  by  a  Belgian  Company. 


DAMASCUS. 


38.  Route.   295 


Consulates:  Great  Britain  (in  tbe  Muslim  quarter;  PI.  I  4,  C,  D  4) ; 
United  States.  N.  Meshaka,  consular  agent  (in  the  Christian  quarter; 
PI.  I  viii,  F  4);  Austria,  F.  Zitterer  (PI.  I,  5;  F  4,  5);  France,  E.  Bertrand 
(PI.  1, 2 ;  F,  4)  ;  Germany,  B.  Asfar  (near  the  Greek  bazaar ;  PI.  1 3,  D  4) ;  Italy, 
E.  Carrara,  vice-consul  (in  the  'Straight  Street');  Russia,   O.  Batyoushkoff. 

Post  it  Telegraph  Office  (international;  see  p.  xxv),  in  the  square  near 
the  Serai  (PI.  I,  22;  C,  4). 

Dragomans  (comp.  p.  xvii).  Travellers  will  do  well,  at  any  rate  at 
first,  to  take  a  valet-de-place  with  them  when  strolling  through  the  streets, 
making  purchases,  visiting  mosques,  etc.  Fee  in  the  town  about  10  i'r. 
in  tbe  season.  A  bargain  should  be  made.  The  dragoman  should  on  no 
account  be  entrusted  with  money  or  articles  purchased. 

Banks.  Banque  Ottomane  (PI.  I,  1;  D,4),  Suk  el-fAsruniyeh;  Liilticke 
A  Co.,  Fankhaenel  &  Schifner  (German  bankers).  The  majority  of  the  other 
large  Beirut  banking-houses  have  agencies  here. 

Physicians.  Dr.  Frank  J.  Mackinnon  (English),  at  the  Victoria  Hospital 
(see  below);  Dr.  Hurductano,  at  the  French  hospital;  Dr.  Melkonian  (Ar- 
menian)-—  Chemists.  At  the  hospitals;  also,  Pharmacie  Belediyeh,  at  the 
corner  of  the  'Asruniyeh  and  the  Greek  Bazaar  (p.  305);  Selim  Faris; 
Wanes  Maker;  Turkish  Municipal  Dispensary. 

Photographs  at  Suleiman  Hakim4"*,  in  the  'Asruniyeh. 

Tailor.     'Abdullah  Manstir,' 'in  the  Suk  el-Arwam. 

Bazaars.  The  stalls  are  opened  at  8' a.m.  and  closed  ljt-i  hr.  before 
sunset.  The  variety  of  wares  in  the  Damascus  bazaars  is  very  tempting. 
Silks  and  other  goods  may  be  equally  well  procured  at  Beirut,  but  there 
is  more  choice  here.  As  regards  purchasing,  see  p.  xxviii.  A  few  of  the 
merchants  in  Damascus  speak  a  little  French,  but  most  purchasers  will 
require  the  assistance  of  a  dragoman.  Every  dragoman  gets  a  commission 
of  10-15  per  cent  from  the  seller.  Some  of  the  dealers  bring  their  wares 
to  the  hotels.  It  is  preferable,  if  only  because  more  interesting,  to  buy 
in  the  bazaars.  [5.  Asfar  and  Musa  Arouani,  in  the  Suk  el-Arwam,  and 
0.  Nassar  &  Co.,  near  the  Bab  esh-Sherki  (PI.  I,  F,  4,  5;  p.  311),  may  be  re- 
commended;  a  visit  to  the  factory  of  the  last-named  firm  is  interesting.] 

Churches,  Hospitals,  &  Schools.  Protestants.  The  Victoria  Hospital 
of  the  Edinburgh  Medical  Mission  Society  (7  min.  from  tbe  Gate  of  St.  Thomas) 
has  two  British  doctors,  a  staff  of  British  and  native  nurses,  and  in-patient 
and  outpatient  departments.  There  are  also  a  Turkish  civil  hospital  and 
a  French  hospital  (lately  opened).  The  British  Syrian  Mission  maintains  four 
schools  (the  largest  is  St.  Paul's),  a  school  for  the  blind,  and  three  schools 
for  girls  at  outlying  stations.  The  American  Mission  has  a  well-attended 
school.  Both  the  Irish  Presbyterian  Mission  and  the  London  Jews  Society  have 
boys1  and  girls'  schools.  The  efforts  of  tbe  London  Jews  Society  have 
not  hitherto  been  crowned  with  success.  Church  of  England  Service 
in  the  chapel  of  the  London  Jews  Society,  in  English  at  11,  in  Arabic  at 
9  a.m.;  Presbyterian  Service  (Irish  Presbyterian  Mission)  in  English  at  10.45, 
in  Arabic  at  9.15  a.m.  —  Latins.  The  French  Lazarists  have  a  hospital, 
served  by  the  Soeurs  de  Chariti,  and  an  excellent  'college'  (PI.  I,  8;  F,  4). 
The  Franciscans  also  have  a  'college'  (PI.  I,  6 ;  F,  4).  The  Soeurs  de  Chariti 
have  a  well-attended  girls'  school  and  an  orphanage.  The  Jesuits  have 
two  schools  for  boys  and  three  for  girls.  —  The  United  Greeks  have  three 
churches,  a  patriarchal  seminary,  three  boys'  schools,  and  two  girls'  schools 
in  the  Meidan.  Their  Patriarch  of  Antioch  resides  here.  —  Okthodox 
Greeks  and  other  Christian  denominations,  too,  have  schools  of  their  own.  — 
Most  of  the  Jews  of  Damascus  are  descendants  of  those  who  were  settled 
here  in  ancient  times,  and  belong  to  the  Sephardim  (pp.  Ixii,  lxiii).  They 
have  fourteen  synagogues  and  a  school  established  by  the  Alliance  Israelite. 

The  Baths  (comp.  p.  xxx),  all  kept  by  Muslims  (even  those  in  the 
Christian  quarter;  PI.  I,  viii,  F  4),  are  famed  throughout  the  East  for  their 
magnificence.  A  visit  should  be  paid  to  the  Hamni&m  el-Khaiydtin,  or  the 
H.  ed-Derwishiyeh  or  el-Malikeh  (p.  308). 

Most  of  the  Drinking  Water  of  Damascus  is  brought  from  the  Baradd 
(p.  296)  and,  though  generally  filtered,  is  not  very  wholesome.  Many 
houses  in  the  Christian  quarter  have  draw-wells,  the  water  of  which  is 


^^^m 


296  Boute  35. 


DAMASCUS. 


Situation. 


also  apt  to  be  of  doubtful  quality  in  autumn  or  after  a  dry  winter,  as  the 
ground  on  which  the  town  stands  consists  largely  of  rubbish. 

The  Streets  of  Damascus  (comp.  pp.  301  et  seq.)  present  quite  as  rich  a 
variety  of  thoroughly  Oriental  scenes  as  those  of  Cairo,  and  should,  there- 
fore, be  frequently  explored  by  the  traveller.  Walking  is  preferable  to 
riding,  as  the  horses  and  donkeys  and  their  gear  are  generally  bad. 

Climate  (comp.  p.  xlix).  Owing  to  the  lofty  situation  of  the  town,  frost 
is  not  uncommon  in  winter  but  fire-places  are  unknown  except  in  the 
hotels.  Spring  does  not  really  begin  before  March,  though  mild  days  occur 
towards  the  end  of  February.  The  maximum  temperature  is  100-104'  Fahr. 
In  the  height  of  summer  the  traveller  should  beware  of  the  treacherous 
night-air,  especially  in  well-watered  gardens.  In  case  of  illness  refuge 
should  at  once  be  taken  among  the  mountains. 

Distribution  of  Time,  comp.  p.  xiv.  Travellers  generally  allow  1-2  days 
only  for  Damascus,  but  a  longer  stay  is  very  desirable. 

Damascus,  called  Esh-Shdm  (p.  xlvii)  by  the  natives,  though  the 
older  name  of  Dimishk  is  not  wholly  unknown  to  them,  is  the  largest 
city  in  Syria,  and  affords  the  best  opportunity  for  observing  the 
characteristics  of  the  natives.  There  are  few  antiquities  or  build- 
ings worthy  of  mention.  The  chief  attractions  are  the  variety  of 
costumes,  the  brisk  and  motley  traffic  in  the  streets,  and  the  en- 
virons. The  city  lies  2266  ft.  above  the  sea,  on  the  W.  margin  of 
the  great  Syrian  desert,  and  is  surrounded  by  mountains  on  three 
sides.  To  the  N.  rises  Anti-Libanus,  extending  into  the  desert  to- 
wards the  N.E.  To  the  N.W.,  close  to  the  city,  rises  the  baro  Jelel 
Kasyun  (p.  316),  adjoining  which,  farther  to  the  W.,  towers  Mt.  Uer- 
mon.  On  the  S.  the  volcanic  hills  of  the  Jebel  Aswud  and  Jelel  el-MdnV 
are  visible.  The  plain  round  the  city  is  occupied  by  umbrageous 
gardens  (the  so-called  Ghuta),  extending  towards  the  S.  and  E.  for 
a  distance  of  about  9  M.  From  the  mountain-gorges  of  Anti-Liba- 
nus several  brooks  descend  to  the  Ghuta,  the  most  important  being 
the  Nahr  Baradd  (cold),  or,  as  it  was  called  by  the  Greeks,  the 
Chrysorrhoas  (golden  stream).  This  is  the  Abana  (or  Amana)  of  the 
Old  Testament  (2  Kings  v.  12) ;  Pliarpar  corresponds  with  the  pre- 
sent Nahr  el-Arwaj  (p.  151').  The  Rarada.  is  well  stocked  with  a 
small,  poor  kind  of  fish.  All  the  streams  which  water  the  plain  of 
Damascus  flow  into  the  so-called  Meadow  Lakes,  about  18  M.  to 
the  E.  of  Damascus  (p.  317).  At  the  outlet  of  its  gorge  the  Baxada 
(sources,  see  p.  294)  divides  into  seven  branches,  two  of  which 
are  used  for  distributing  water  in  numerous  conduits  (kandt) 
throughout  the  city,  while  the  rest  are  employed  in  irrigating;  the 
orchards,  hi  accordance  with  the  description  given  in  the  Koran, 
the  Arabs  picture  to  themselves  paradise  as  an  orchard,  traversed 
by  'streams  of  flowing  water',  where  the  most  delicious  fruits  are 
ever  ready  to  drop  into  the  mouth.  This  ideal,  so  rarely  approached 
in  the  Arabian  peninsula,  appeared  to  the  natives  of  that  sterile 
region  to  be  realized  at  Damascus,  and  the  city  and  its  surround- 
ings are  accordingly  lavishly  extolled  by  Arabian  poets.  The  E\iro- 
pean  is  naturally  less  impressed  by  the  attractions  of  the  Ghuta.  Yet 
in  May,  when  the  walnut-tree  is  in  full  leaf  and  the  vine  climbs 
exuberantly  from  tree  to  tree,  or  still  later,  when  the  large  apricot- 


History. 


DAMASCUS. 


38.  Iioute.    297 


trees  in  the  midst  of  their  rich  carpet  of  green  herbage  hear  their 
countless  golden  fruits,  and  the  pomegranates  are  in  the  perfection 
of  their  blossom,  the  gardens  are  truly  beautiful. 

History.  Jews,  Christians,  and  Muslims  have  numerous  different 
legends  regarding  the  origin  of  the  city.  During  the  reign  of  Solomon 
Reion  succeeded  in  establishing  an  Independent  Kingdom  of  Damascus 
(1  Kings  xi.  23-25).  The  foreign  policy  of  the  Northern  Kingdom  of  Israel 
is  almost  exclusively  occupied  with  its  relations  to  Damascus  (see  1  Kings  xv 
and  xx  for  such  struggles).  The  most  formidable  enemy  of  Israel  was 
Hazael.  whose  usurpation  of  the  Syrian  throne  appears  to  have  been 
promoted  by  Elijah  and  Elisha  (2  Kings  viii.  7-15).  Owing  to  the  hostil- 
ities between  the  two  Jewish  kingdoms  the  Damascenes  could  attack 
Israel  unopposed.  Hazael  devastated  the  country  to  the  E.  of  Jordan, 
crossed  that  river,  captured  the  town  of  Gath,  and  made  the  King  of  J  ad  ah 
pay  dearly  for  the  immunity  of  Jerusalem  from  siege  (2  Kings  xii.  17,  18). 
Benhadad  III.,  the  son  of  Hazael,  was  less  successful  than  his  father  had 
been  (2  Kings  xiii.  25).  Jeroboam  II.  succeeded  in  recapturing  the  former 
Jewish  territory  from  Damascus  (2  Kings  xiv.  28).  Shortly  afterwards  we 
find  Pekah,  King  of  Israel,  in  alliance  with  Rezin  of  Damascus  against 
Jotham  and  Ahaz,  Kings  of Judah  (2  Kings  xv.  37).  Ahaz  was  compelled  to 
restore  the  seaport  of  Elath  on  the  Red  Sea  to  the  Syrians  (2  Kings  xvi. 
5,  6),  but  invited  the  Asstkians  to  aid  him.  These  allies  took  one  after 
the  other  of  the  three  kingdoms  which  ought  to  have  united  their  forces 
against  them,  and  first  of  all  Damascus,  to  which  Ahaz  repaired  to  pay 
homage  to  the  King  of  Assyria.  In  the  Assyrian  accounts  the  kingdom 
of  Damascus  is  called  Imtrisu,  and  the  city  Dimaski. 

Thenceforward  the  ancient  city  seems  entirely  to  have  lost  its  in- 
dependence. After  the  battle  of  Issus  (B.  C.  333)  Damascus,  where  the  harem 
and  treasures  of  Darius  had  been  left,  was  surrendered  to  Parmenio  by 
treachery.  During  the  contests  of  the  Diadochi  Damascus  and  Lebanon 
sometimes  fell  into  the  hands  of  the  Ptolemies.  In  112  the  step-brothers 
Antiochus  Grypus  and  Antiochus  Cyzicenus  divided  the  empire  of  Syria,  the 
latter  being  established  at  Damascus  and  reigning  over  Phoenicia  and  the 
Bikaf  (p.  292).  Demetrius  Eucaerus,  the  fourth  son  of  Grypus,  supported  by 
Egypt,  next  became  King  of  Damascus.  On  the  invitation  of  the  Jews  he 
invaded  Palestine  in  B.  C.  88  and  defeated  Alexander  Jannocus  at  Shechem. 
After  his  overthrow  Antiochus  Dionysus,  another  brother,  reigned  in  Syria 
for  three  years,  but  fell  in  B.  C.  85  in  a  battle  against  Aretas,  King  of 
Arabia.  Aretas  next  became  King  of  Damascus,  after  which  it  came  into 
the  possession  of  Tigranes,  King  of  the  Armenians,  and  was  subsequently 
conquered  by  Metellus,  the  Roman  general.  In  64  Pompey  here  received 
ambassadors  with  presents  from  the  neighbouring  kings,  and  Syria  became 
a  Roman  Province.  Herod,  when  a  young  man ,  visited  the  proconsul 
Sextus  Caesar  at  Damascus  and  received  from  him  tbe  territory  of  the  Bika.'', 
and  he  afterwards  caused  the  city  to  be  embellished  with  a  theatre  and 
a  gymnasium,  although  it  lay  beyond  his  dominions.  In  the  history  of 
the  Christian  church  Damascus  likewise  played  a  very  important  part. 
The  miraculous  conversion  of  St.  Paul  took  place  whilst  he  was  on  his 
way  thither,  and  shortly  afterwards  the  apostle  boldly  preached  Christ 
in  the  city  (Acts  ix.  1-25).  Under  Trajan,  150  years  later,  Damascus  at 
length  became  a  Roman  provincial  city. 

Civilization  at  Damascus  must  once  have  been  in  a  very  advanced 
condition,  and  the  city  was  undoubtedly  an  important  manufacturing  and 
commercial  place,  being  the  great  starting-point  of  the  caravan  traffic 
with  the  East,  and  particularly  with  Persia.  The  language  of  the  city  was 
Syrian.  The  Graaco-Roman  influence,  however,  made  itself  felt  at  an  early 
period.  A  considerable  colony  of  Jews  was  resident  here.  —  An  interesting 
fact  in  the  history  of  Damascus  is  that  the  Arabs  gained  a  footing  in  the 
city  at  a  very  early  period.  The  Nabateeans  sometimes  extended  their  power 
as  far  as  Damascus  (2  Cor.  xi.  32).  The  town  has  always  been  a  goal  for  the 
attacks  of  the  nomadic  tribes  of  the  Syrian  desert,  and  the  dense  hedges 
and  clay  walls  of  the  orchards  with  which  Damascus  is  surrounded  were 


l*?j&      •CWjflC  .«&»#**       «i$*. 


'&*$£ 


298   Route  38. 


DAMASCUS. 


History. 


erected  for  protection.  —  The  city  was  also  politically  important  to  the 
Byzantines  as  an  outpost  in  the  direction  of  the  desert.  Damascus  after- 
wards became  the  residence  of  a  Christian  bishop,  who  in  point  of  rank 
was  the  second  in  the  patriarchate  of  Antioch.  The  names  of  many  of  the 
bishops  have  been  handed  down  to  us.  The  Emperor  Theodosius ,  who 
destroyed  the  heathen  temples  in  Syria,  converted  the  large  temple  of 
Damascus  into  a  Christian  church,  and  a  new  church  was  erected  in  the 
city  by  Justinian.  Damascus  suffered  severely  in  the  course  of  the  conflicts 
between  the  Byzantines  and  the  Persians,  and  during  the  reign  of  Heraclius 
(610-41)  many  of  the  inhabitants  were  carried  off  as  slaves  to  Persia. 

The  third  and  most  brilliant  period  in  the  history  of  the  city  soon 
afterwards  began  with  the  introduction  of  Islam.  Damascus,  as  already 
stated,  had  long  been  surrounded  by  the  Aeabs,  who  materially  aided 
their  co-religionists  in  their  encroachments  westwards.  [For  an  account 
of  the  powerful  Ghassanides  in  the  Hauran,  see  p.  155.]  After  the  battle 
of  the  Yarmuk  (p.  lxxxi)  Damascus  fell  into  the  hands  of  the  Arabs  under 
Abu  'Ubeida.  Khalid  Ibn  Welid,  the  victor  on  the  Yarmuk,  scaled  the 
walls  by  means  ot  rope-ladders  one  night  when  the  Greeks  were  off  their 
guard,  opened  the  E.  gate,  and  thus  gained  access  for  his  troops.  When 
the  Damascenes  observed  this,  they  surrendered  to  the  generals  who  were 
besieging  their  other  gates,  and  the  Arabs  accordingly  entered  the  city, 
in  the  middle  of  which  they  encountered  the  pillaging  hordes  of  Khalid. 
The  city  was,  therefore,  regarded  half  as  a  conquered  place,  and  half  as  one 
which  had  voluntarily  surrendered.  The  Christians  were  on  this  occasion 
secured  in  possession  of  fifteen  churches  (at  the  beginning  of  the  year  635). 

The  splendour  of  Damascus  begins  with  the  supremacy  of  the  Omat- 
tades  (p.  lxxxi),  who  were  unquestionably  the  greatest  princes  ever  pro- 
duced by  Arabia.  Mu'dwiya  was  the  first  who  established  his  residence 
at  Damascus.  (With  regard  to  the  building  of  the  great  mosque,  see 
p.  313.)  The  central  point  of  the  empire  was  removed  to  Bagdad  by  the 
cAbbasides,  and  the  Damascenes  were  therefore  dissatisfied  with  their 
new  masters.  During  the  following  centuries  the  city  was  in  possession 
of  the  Tulunides  of  Egypt.  The  district  was  devastated  by  internal  feuds, 
which  the  later  Egyptian  dynasty  of  the  Fatimites  were  unable  to  quell. 
In  1075-76  the  city  fell  into  the  hands  of  the  Seljuks  (p.  lxxxii).  —  In  1126 
the  Crusaders  gained  a  victory,  to  the  S.  of  the  city,  over  Togtckin,  but 
were  afterwards  obliged  to  withdraw.  In  1148  Damascus  was  besieged 
in  vain  by  Conrad  III.  Mujireddtn  Eibek,  Prince  of  Damascus,  was  almost 
constantly  at  war  with  the  Franks,  but  Damascus  was  at  length  wrested 
from  him  by  NUreddin  (1153).  The  new  master  of  the  city  embellished  it 
in  various  ways.  He  surrounded  it  with  new  fortifications,  and  caused 
many  mosques  and  schools  to  be  built  and  fountains  repaired.  In  1177 
Damascus  was  again  threatened  by  the  Franks,  but  its  immunity  from 
attack  was  purchased  by  the  vicegerent  of  Saladin  (p.  lxxxiii).  The  city  after- 
wards became  the  headquarters  of  Saladin  during  his  expeditions  against 
the  Franks,  and  during  the  wars  of  his  successors  was  subjected  to  several 
sieges.  In  1260  it  was  taken  by  the  Mongols  under  EUlagtl  (p.  lxxxiv),  by 
whom  the  Christians  were  much  favoured,  but  they  again  experienced  a 
great  reverse  when  the  city  was  recaptured  by  Kotuz(x>.  lxxxiv),  the  Mameluke 
sovereign  of  Egypt.  The  successor  of  Kotuz  was  Beibars,  who  rebuilt  the 
citadel  of  Damascus.  In  1300  the  city  was  plundered  by  the  Tartars  under 
Ghazzan  Khan,  and  many  buildings  were  burned.  In  1399  Timur  (p.  lxxxv) 
marched  against  the  place,  but  the  citizens  purchased  immunity  from  plun- 
der with  a  sum  of  a  million  pieces  of  gold.  All  the  famous  armourers  of 
Damascus  were  on  this  occasion  carried  away  as  prisoners,  and  introduced 
the  art  of  manufacturing  Damascus  blades  at  Samarkand  and  Khorasan, 
where  it  flourishes  to  this  day,  while  at  Damascus  it  has  fallen  into 
complete  oblivion.  In  1516  the  Turkish  sultan  Selim  marched  into  Damas- 
cus, and  since  that  period  it  has  been  one  of  the  provincial  capitals  of 
the  Turkish  Empiee. 

The  cruel  tragedy  of  1860  must  lastly  be  mentioned.  The  Muslim  mind 
had  been  much  excited  by  the  Indian  Mutiny.  The  Vali  of  Damascus 
is  said  himself  to  have  given  the  signal  for  the  massacre  from  the  Turkish 


1.  Topograph! . 


DAMASCUS. 


38.  Route.    299 


barracks,  and  the  soldiers  fraternized  with  the  Druses  and  the  populace 
of  Damascus.  The  whole  Christian  quarter  was  soon  converted  into  a 
heap  of  ruins.  All  the  consulates,  except  the  British  and  the  Prussian, 
were  burned  down.  rAbd  el-Kader  (p.  316),  the  Algerian  ex-chief,  with  his 
Moorish  retinue,  succeeded  in  saving  many  Christians.  Similar  tragedies 
took  place  among  the  mountains,  where  the  Druses  gave  vent  to  their 
inveterate  hatred  of  the  Maronites.  The  whole  number  of  Christians  who 
perished  in  these  days  of  terror  is  estimated  at  14,000.  It  was  not  until 
aroused  from  its  apathy  by  the  universally  expressed  indignation  of  Europe 
that  the  Turkish  government  attempted  to  interfere  in  the  matter.  A  French 
corps  of  10,000  men  was  despatched  to  Syria  (comp.  p.  lxxxv),and  dispersed 
the  Druses.  Many  of  the  latter  emigrated  at  this  period  from  Lebanon  to 
the  Hauran  (p.  155),  while  many  Christians  removed  to  Beirut.  During 
the  last  two  decades  the  commerce  and  industry  of  the  city  have  steadily 
lost  ground.  Its  importance  as  a  focus  of  international  trade  disappeared 
with  the  construction  of  the  Suez  Canal,  and  the  flooding  of  the  general 
market  with  European-made  goods  has  paralyzed  large  branches  of  the 
home  industry. 

1.  Topography.    Population.    Administration. 

The  city  contains  several  different  Quarters.  The  Jewish  Quar- 
ter (PI.  I,  ix;  E,  5),  in  the  S.E.,  still  lies,  as  in  Apostolic  times, 
near  the  'Street  which  is  called  Straight'  (p.  307).  To  the  N.  of 
this  extends  the  large  Christian  Quarter  (PI.  I,  viii,  F  4;  p.  311).  The 
other  parts  of  the  town  are  Muslim.  The  present  form  of  Damascus 
is  not  unlike  that  of  a  spoon,  the  handle  being  the  long  and  narrow 
Meidan  Suburb  (p.  309),  which  extends  towards  the  S.  These 
quarters  are  subdivided  into  smaller  sections,  formerly  provided  with 
wooden  gates,  which  were  opened  on  demand  by  the  watchmen.  At 
present  it  is  not  advisable  to  walk  through  the  town  at  night. 

The  Houses  of  Damascus  (comp.  p.  xxvii)  are  famous  for  the 
luxurious  style  in  which  they  are  fitted  up.  The  spacious  courts  are 
paved  with  coloured  stones,  provided  with  a  large  basin  of  water 
and  fountain  in  the  centre  (supplied  from  the  Barada),  and  bordered 
with  flowers  and  groups  of  orange,  lemon,  pomegranate,  and  jasmine 
plants.  On  the  S.  side,  opening  towards  the  N.,  there  is  usually 
a  lofty,  open  colonnade  with  pointed  arches,  called  the  liicdn,  bor- 
dered with  soft  couches,  and  forming  a  delightful  sitting-room. 
The  walls  are  adorned  with  mouldings  in  stucco  or  with  mosaics, 
and  sometimes  enriched  with  texts  from  the  Koran.  Beyond  the 
first  court  is  a  second,  and  occasionally  a  third,  similarly  fitted  up. 

It  is  extremely  difficult  to  estimate  the  Population.  According 
to  recent  statistics  there  are  144,200  Muslims;  16,500  Orthodox 
Greeks;  15,000  United  Greeks;  1210  Armenians;  380  United  Ar- 
menians; 800  United  Syrians;  1420  Orthodox  Syrians;  450  Maro- 
nites; 700  Latins;  730  Protestants;  8000  Jews;  150  Druses;  320 
United  Chaldeans;  total:  189,800,  besides  a  garrison  of  12,000 
men.    Other  authorities  estimate  the  population  at  250,000./^  °°f 

The  Muslims  have  in  all  248  Mosques  and  colleges  in  Damascus; 
of  these  71  are  large  mosques,  in  which  sermons  are  preached  on 
Fridays,  and  177  smaller  chapels.  Probably  about  100  of  the  latter 
were  originally  endowed  schools.    Some  of  them  possess  Libraries, 


oo) 


300   «ou<e  38. 


DAMASCUS. 


1.  Administration. 


Most  ol  the  Muslim  schools  have  been  closed,  as  the  purposes  for 
which  they  were  founded  have,  intentionally  or  otherwise ,  been 
consigned  to  oblivion.  Five  'Medresehs'  only  are  preserved  in  which 
the  pupils  still  receive  annual  payments  from  the  foundation.  The 
chief  branch  of  study  is  theology,  including  the  interpretation  of 
the  Koran  and  the  traditions  of  the  prophets.  Next  conies  juris- 
prudence; after  which  philosophy,  especially  logic,  and  grammar 
are  studied  on  account  of  their  relations  to  theology.  All  other 
branches  of  learning  are  almost  entirely  neglected.  Damascus  was 
once  a  great  resort  of  scholars,  but  is  now  almost  deserted  by  them. 
Education  flourished  again  for  a  short  time  under  the  fostering  care 
of  Midhat  Pasha,  but  practically  all  the  schools  he  founded,  with  the 
exception  of  the  'Kcole  des  Me'tiers  et  des  Arts',  have  again  been 
closed.  There  are  numerous  primary  schools  and  a  military  school.  — 
Latterly  the  Christians  have  shown  great  activity  in  establishing 
schools  at  Damascus  (comp.  p.  295). 

The  Damascenes  are  very  fond  of  their  city.  The  citizens  of 
every  creed  are  notoriously  fanatic,  and  since  the  middle  ages  their 
character  has  been  generally  reputed  to  be  insolent  and  malevo- 
lent. The  Damascene  Muslim  is  proud  and  ignorant  at  the  same 
time.  He  feels  the  superiority  of  the  West,  and  vents  his  wrath 
at  being  disturbed  in  his  rigid  conservatism  against  the  native 
Christians.  The  Arabs  had  long  considered  themselves  superior  to 
all  other  nations,  and  the  circumstance  that  they  have  come  into 
contact  with  a  culture  undeniably  superior  to  their  own  renders  them 
jealous  and  fanatical,  instead  of  stimulating  them  to  greater  exertion. 
The  ancient  native  manufactures,  moreover,  have  greatly  declined  in 
face  of  the  ever-growing  competition  of  European  industries.  There 
still  remain,  however,  about  10,000  looms  (of  the  most  primitive 
character)  for  the  weaving  of  silk,  cotton,  and  woollen  stuffs,  which 
are  often  of  great  beauty.  —  The  various  handicrafts  form  a  number 
of  guilds.  Even  the  beggars  are  organized  in  this  way,  but  they 
are  comparatively  rare,  as  living  here  is  very  cheap.  When  ac- 
costed by  one  of  the  dervishes  or  vagrant  madmen,  who  are  known 
by  the  scantiness  of  their  clothing,  the  traveller  should  lose  no  time 
in  getting  rid  of  him  by  bestowing  a  trifling  alms.  In  summer  most 
of  the  inhabitants  live  on  fruit,  which  is  often  imperfectly  ripe, 
and  notwithstanding  the  heavy  dews  and  the  coolness  of  the  nights, 
they  sleep  on  the  flat  roofs  of  their  houses.  In  consequence  of  this 
ophthalmia,  intermittent  fever,  and  dysentery  are  not  uncommon. 
Dogs  are  very  numerous  (comp.  p.  lv). 

Administration.  Damascus  is  the  residence  of  the  Vali  of  the 
province  of  Suriya  and  of  the  Mushir  (geneial  in  command)  of  the 
fith  Turkish  Army  Corps,  who  has  charge  of  the  military  affairs  of 
the  province.  The  garrison  is  comparatively  large  (see  p.  299). 
Municipal  affairs  are  managed  by  a  town-council,  which  includes 
several  Christians  and  Jews. 


^La-c^a    ^~#u*vi  *sw~ . 


f   -  o; 


'AW 


p.*U? 


$  H*M> 


2.  Bazaars. 


DAMASCUS. 


38.  Route.   301 


2.  Walk  through  the  Bazaars. 

The  public  life  of  the  city  is  concentrated  in  the  chief  bazaars, 
and  nany  amusing  scenes  may  be  witnessed  here  and  in  the  streets. 
The  public  writers,  who  sit  at  the  corners  of  the  streets,  are  often 
surrounded  by  peasants  and  Beduins,  and  sometimes  by  women. 
The  engraver  of  seals  is  another  important  personage  here,  as  the 
granter  of  a  deed  completes  it  by  appending  his  seal  and  not  his 
signature.  The  Persians  are  particularly  noted  for  their  skill  in  seal 
engraving  and  caligraphy.  The  public  slaughtering  of  animals  has 
become  rarer  since  a  slaughter-house  was  erected  in  the  Meidan. 
Carts  being  unknown,  the  butchers  are  often  seen  carrying  the  car- 
cases to  tlieir  shops  on  their  shoulders.  The  Bakees'  Shops  are 
interesting.  The  thin,  flat  bread  is  baked  by  being  pasted  against 
the  tennur,  or  stove.  The  Orientals  prefer  to  eat  their  bread  warm. 
The  flat  cakes  are  sold  by  weight,  or  at  about  10  paras  each.  The 
boy  who  carries  them  about  constantly  shouts  'yd  rezzdlc  ('0  Giver 
of  sustenance',  —  i.e.  0  Allah,  send  customers),  or  'abu'l  'asharcC 
( 'this  for  10  paras').  Benevolent  Muslims  are  sometimes  seen  buying 
bread  to  feed  the  dogs.  Finer  kinds  of  bread  are  also  offered  for 
sale.  Thus  the  berdzik  is  thin  wheaten  bread,  spread  with  butter- 
and  grape-syrup ,  and  sprinkled  with  sesame.  The  seller  shouts 
'alldh  er-rdzik,  yd  berfaw  ('God  is  the  nourisher,  buy  my  bread'), 
or  'akel  es-snunu'  ('food  for  the  swallows',  i.e.  for  delicate  girls). 
During  the  fasting-month  of  Ramadan  an  unusually  large  quantity 
of  fancy  bread  and  sweetmeats  is  consumed.  Damascus  also  con- 
tains numerous  Pastky  Cooks,  whose  long  tables  are  garnished 
with  bottles  of  liqueurs,  lightly  stoppered  with  lemons  or  coloured 
eggs  by  way  of  ornament.  Lemonade  and  other  beverages  are  cooled 
with  snow  from  Lebanon  (20  paras  per  glass).  Ice  cream  is  sold 
by  the  Confectioners.  The  shops  for  the  sale  of  comestibles  often 
contain  handsome  copper  dishes  bearing  inscriptions  with  elaborate 
flourishes,  all  of  which  are  said  to  date  from  the  time  of  Sultan 
Beibars  (p.  298).  The  bazaars  also  contain  Restaurants.  Small 
pieces  of  fresh  mutton  with  strips  of  the  fat  tail  between  them 
(kebdb)  are  slowly  roasted  on  large  spits.  The  traveller  may  for 
curiosity  taste  the  flesh  of  the  so-called  kebab  in  the  Greek  bazaar 
(p.  B04),  where  the  shops  are  more  civilized  than  in  other  parts  of 
the  town.  Small  rooms  at  the  back  of  the  restaurants  here,  with 
diminutive  stools  for  diners,  are  set  apart  for  customers.  A  peep 
may  also  be  obtained  of  a  Reading  School,  where  the  pupils  recite 
the  Koran  in  chorus,  swaying  their  bodies  back  and  forward  like  the 
children  in  the  Jewish  schools.  The  Barobeh,  too,  in  his  stall  hung 
round  with  mirrors,  incessantly  and  skilfully  plies  his  trade  of 
shaving  heads  and  bleeding.  Everyone  is  busy.  When  the  merchant 
is  at  leisure  he  sometimes  reads  the  Koran,  repeats  his  prayers, 
hires  a  nargileh  from  one  of  the  itinerant  smoke  purveyors,  or  chats 
amicably  with  his  neighbour.    One  pleasant  feature  of  the  scene  is 

Baedeker's  Palestine  and  Syria.    4th  Edit.  19 


302   Ko«<e  35. 


DAMASCUS. 


2.  Bazaars. 


that  tliere  appears  to  be  no  jealousy  between  the  rival  -vendors  of 
similar  wares.  'Allah  has  sent  a  good  customer  to  my  neighbour', 
they  argue  resignedly,  'and  will  in  due  time  send  me  one  also'.  In 
the  same  spirit  they  place  above  their  booths,  in  gilded  letters,  the 
words  lyd  rezzdk'1  or  lyd  fettdK'  (i.e.  0  Thou  who  givest  sustenance). 

The  various  street- cries  are  full  of  interest.  The  vendor  of 
Refreshments,  carrying  on  bis  back  a  wide,  two-handled  jar,  with 
a  narrow  neck,  or  a  vessel  made  of  glass,  rattles  with  the  brazen 
cups  he  holds  in  his  hands,  shouting  —  'berrid  'aid  kalbak'  ('refresh 
thy  heart'),  or — 'itfi  el-hardra''  ('allay  the  heat').  These  are  the 
cries  of  the  dealers  in  lemonade  and  eau  sucree.  The  seller  otjulldb, 
or  raisin-water,  shouts — 'mu'allal,  yd  welecT  ('well-cleared,  my 
child'),  etc.,  while  the  purveyor  of  khushdf,  a  beverage  prepared 
from  raisins ,  oranges,  apricots,  etc.,  extols  its  coolness  in  the 
words  —  '■bdlak  snunak'  ('take  care  of  your  teeth').  Liquorice  water 
and  plain  water  are  carried  about  in  goat-skins  by  other  itinerant 
dealers.  An  interesting  custom  is  the  so-called  sebU  (p.  lxxiv);  that 
is,  when  any  one  is  desirous  of  doing  a  charitable  deed,  he  pays  for 
the  contents  of  a  water-skin  and  desires  the  carrier  to  dispense  it 
•gratuitously  to  all  comers.  Water-bearers  with  good  voices  are 
selected  for  the  purpose,  and  they  loudly  invite  applicants  with — 
lyd  'atshdn,  es-sebW  ('0  thirsty  one,  the  distribution'). 

Fruit  of  all  kinds  is  sold  in  a  similar  manner,  being  generally 
described  by  some  quaint  periphrasis,  instead  of  being  called  by 
its  name.  Many  kinds  of  Vegetables  are  pickled  in  vinegar  or 
brine  and  carried  through  the  streets  for  sale  in  wooden  tubs. 
The  commonest  are  beetroot  (shawender),  turnips  (lift),  and  cu- 
cumbers (khiydr).  These  last  form  the  principal  food  of  the  lower 
classes  during  several  months  of  the  year,  one  kind  being  eaten 
raw,  the  other  cooked  with  meat.  The  cry  of  the  sellers  is  —  lydbu 
'eileh,  khudlak  sheikh,  bitldtm  roll  el-khiydr'  ('0  father  of  a  family, 
buy  a  load;  for  30  paras  a  rotl  of  cucumbers',  i.e.  5  lbs.).  The 
cress  is  praised  somewhat  as  follows  —  "orra  tartyeh  min  'ain  ed- 
du'lyeh,  tdkulha  'l-'ajuz  tisbih  sab7yeh'  ('tender  cresses  from  the  spring 
of  Ed-Du'iyeh ;  if  an  old  woman  eats  them  she  will  be  young  again 
next  morning').  —  lSeidndwi  yd  Ba'V  ('from  Seidnaya,  0  Baal') 
is  the  cry  of  the  fig-dealers.  [Baal  now  signifies  an  unwatered  or 
unirrigated  district,  such  as  that  in  which  Seidnaya  (p.  349)  lies; 
and  these  districts  are  considered  to  produce  the  best  fruit.]  — 
Along  with  pistachios  Cfistik  jed1d\  fresh  pistachios),  roasted  peas 
are  also  frequently  purveyed,  with  the  cry — lumm  enndrein  ('mother 
of  two  fires'),  which  means  that  they  are  well  roasted,  or  —  '■haya 
halli  ma  tehmil  el-isnarC  ('here  is  something  too  hard  for  the  teeth 
to  bite').  —  Hawkers  of  nosegays  cry  —  lsdlih  hamCitaW  ('appease 
your  mother-in-law',  i.  e.  by  presenting  her  with  a  bouquet).  — 
The  constant  din  is  increased  by  the  lusty  singing  of  the  beggars 
and  by  the  sonorous  repetition  of  the  Mohammedan  creed  by  the 


2.  Bazaars. 


DAMASCUS. 


38.  Route. 


303 


muezzins,  which  resounds  from  one  minaret  to  another  throughout 
the  whole  city.  The  scene  is  frequently  varied  by  the  appearance 
of  a  Turkish  efl'endi,  sometimes  accompanied  by  soldiers,  and  mounted 
on  a  richly  caparisoned  horse;  but  his  progress  is  necessarily  slow, 
and  he  is  obliged  to  clear  the  way  by  shouts  of  'dahrak,  dahrak'' 
(literally  'your  back1,  anglioe  'get  out  of  the  way'). 

As  to  the  best  way  of  making  purchases,  corop.  pp.  xxviii,  295. 

The  most  important  bazaars  (Suk,  market)  are  grouped  round 
the  citadel  (comp.  Plan  II;  D,  4).  Leaving  the  hotels  and  skirting 
the  Barada,  we  soon  reach  an  open  square,  in  the  centre  of  which 
is  a  fountain  surrounded  by  trees.  To  the  W.  of  this  square  is  the 
Town  Hall  (PI.  II ;  C,  4).  On  the  S.  side  of  the  square  are  the  police- 
offices  (PI.  II;  C,  D,  4).  We  proceed  along  the  N.  side  of  the  square, 
passing  the  criminal  court,  the  post  and  telegraph  office  (PI.  II; 
C,  D,  4),  and  a  small  cafe  (good),  and  then  turn  to  the  left  through 
a  covered  bazaar  (mostly  fruits  and  tobacco),  called  Suk  'Ali  Pasha 
(PI.  II;  I),  4)  to  an  extensive  square,  the  Suk  el-Hamir  (Ass  Market, 
PI.  II,  D  4;  formerly  the  horse-market,  Suk  el-IOieil). 

We  follow  the  open  street  which  leads  to  the  E.  along  the  S. 
side  of  the  square  (Suk  el-Jemdl,  Camel  Market),  passing  the  stalls 
for  the  sale  of  grain  and  beans.  A  market  for  the  sale  of  camels  is 
held  here  on  the  arrival  and  departure  of  the  pilgrim  -  caravans. 
Straight  in  front  is  a  covered  portion  of  a  bazaar,  through  which  we 
reach  the  Fruit  Market  (PI.  II;  D,  4). 

Id  May  apricots  are  the  most  abundant  fruit.  They  are  often  dried, 
pressed,  and  made  into  thin,  reddish- brown  cakes  called  kamreddin.  In 
autumn  there  are  several  excellent  kinds  of  grape,  the  most  esteemed  of 
which  have  long,  thin  berries  and  are  very  ileshy.  Delicious  water-melons 
also  ripen  in  autumn. 

Close  by  the  fruit-market  is  a  large  plane-tree,  1Ql/o  ft.  in 
girth,  and  said  to  have  been  planted  at  the  birth  of  Mahomet.  We 
here  turn  to  the  right  into  a  small  lane,  which  ends  after  a  few 
paces  in  the  Saddle  Market  (Suk  es-SurujIyeh ;  PI.  II,  D  4).  The 
saddles  are  more  gaily  than  tastefully  decorated,  and  some  of  them 
are  covered  with  rich  cloth.  Besides  these  the  bazaar  contains  an 
ample  stock  of  straps,  girths,  bridles,  the  peculiar  sharp  Arabian 
bits,  the  broad  and  clumsy  stirrups,  pistol-holsters  embroidered  with 
silver  thread,  and  many  other  specimens  of  leather-work. 

The  saddle-market  ends  at  a  small  triangular  open  space  with 
a  large  tree.  Opposite  lies  the  J  ami  es-Sanjakddr ;  the  carriagu- 
road  to  the  serai  diverges  to  the  right  (W.).  We  turn  to  the 
left  down  the  broad  street  leading  to  the  S.  On  each  side  the 
Coppersmiths  (hence  the  name  of  the  street:  Suk  en  -  Nahhdsln) 
noisily  pursue  their  craft.  Oriental  dinner-services,  sometimes 
adorned  with  inscriptions,  are  here  displayed  on  low  wooden  stands 
for  sale.  The  principal  dish  or  tray,  standing  in  the  middle,  is 
sometimes  as  much  as  6  ft.  in  diameter.  The  peasantry  and  Beduins 
consider  it  honourable  to  possess  such  large  dishes,  as  they  are  sup- 

19* 


Bazaars. 


Is 


1^ 


W 


posed  to  indicate  tlie  measure  of  the  owner's  hospitality.  There 
are  also  various  cooking  utensils,  including  coffee-pots  with  long 
spouts,  made  of  copper  or  hrass  lined  with  tin. 

A  little  farther  on,  to  the  left,  we  reach  the  entrance  to  the  Cita- 
del (PL  II;  D,  4),  guarded  hy  sentries.    Strangers  are  not  admitted. 

The  fortress,  a  large  square  structure,  was  erected  by  Jlelik  el-Ashraf 
in  1219  and  was  renovated  by  Beibars  (p.  lxxxiv).  It  is  surrounded  by  a  moat 
about  19'/2  ft.  wide  and  14:/2  ft-  deep.  The  moat  on  the  S.  fide  is  now 
covered  by  the  Suk  el-Arwam  (see  below).  The  walls  are  very  thick,  and 
their  substructions  are  ancient.  The  principal  gate  faces  the  W.,  and 
there  is  a  small  postern  towards  the  E.  At  the  corners  of  the  castle  are 
projecting  towers,  twelve  in  all,  with  overhanging  stories.  In  the  entrance- 
gateway  are  four  antique  columns. 

Immediately  beyond  the  citadel  a  street  diverges  to  the  right  to 
s  the  Brokers'  Market  (Suk  el-  #wweiJe/(, 'louse-market'), wheresecond- 
hand  clothes,  old-fashioned  fire-arms,  and  other  articles  are  bought 
and  sold.  A  brisk  trade  is  sometimes  carried  on  here.  The  auction- 
eer shouts  out  the  word  hardj  (literally  'raise')  and  the  price  last 
offered,  and  runs  with  the  article  for  sale  from  shop  to  shop,  at 
one  or  other  of  which  he  is  occasionally  stopped  by  a  dealer  de- 
sirous of  examining  the  goods  and  of  making  a  fresh  bid. 

A  few  paces  to  the  right  of  the  brokers'  market  is  the  Military 
Serai  (PL  II;  D,  4),  an  extensive  building.  The  Turkish  military 
band  plays  here  daily. 

Opposite  the  military  serai,  to  the  left,  is  the  entrance  to  the 
so-called  Greek  Bazaar  (Sufc  el-Arwam;  PL  II,  D  4),  one  of  the 
largest  at  Damascus,  rebuilt  since  its  destruction  by  fire  in  1893. 
Weapons,  shawls,  carpets,  clothing,  and  antiquities  are  sold  here. 
The  dealers  usually  importune  strangers  to  buy  their  'Damascus' 
blades  and  other  wares,  such  as  daggers,  armour,  various  weapons, 
pipes,  tobacco-pouches,  etc.    A  small  fraction  only  of  the  prices 
they  demand  should  be  offered,  and  they  will  often  gladly  sell  an 
article  for  a  fourth  of  what  is  first  asked.    The  daggers  are  mostly 
modem,  the  blades  being  probably  of  the  inferior  steel  largely  im- 
ported from  Solingen  in  Germany.   The  handles  of  these  'Damascus' 
weapons  are  showily  enriched  with  mother-of-pearl  and  other  or-  ] 
naments.    Pretty  saucers  (zarf)  for  the  small  Oriental  coffee-cups 
may  sometimes  be  bought  here  (or  of  the  goldsmiths,  p.  306).   Long  | 
pipe-stems  made  of  the  wood  of  the  cork-tree,  and  gaily  decked  \ 
with  gold  and  silver  thread,  are  among  the  specialities  of  this  bazaar,  ( 
but  the  coloured  thread  with  which  they  are  decorated  fades  very  j 
soon.    This  bazaar  is  also  the  headquarters  of  the  tailors,  chiefly 
Greeks,  many  of  whom  make  the  European  clothes  which  are  now  i 
becoming  common  among  the  Christians.    Among  the  caps  will  be 
observed  small  velvet  caps  for  children,  the  red  fez  of  European  | 
manufacture,  the  felt  hat  worn  by  the  peasantry,  and  the  white  linen 
skull-caps  worn  by  the  natives  under  the  fez. 

The  continuation,  straight  on,  of  the  Greek  bazaar,  is  the  broad  i 
new  bazaar  called  Suk  el-Hamldlyeh  (PL  II;  D,  4),  elaborately 


2.  Bazaars. 


DAMASCUS. 


38.  Route. 


305 


decorated.    It  contains  several  handsomely  fltted-up  Arab  confec- 
tioners' establishments  (p.  302). 

On  leaving  the  Greek  bazaar,  we  turn  into  a  bazaar-street  on 
the  left  and  come  to  the  stalls  of  the  vendors  of  Water  Pipes,  espe- 
cially of  the  so-called  Jozehs,  which  are  smoked  by  the  peasantry. 
The  cocoa-nut  vessels  from  which  they  derive  their  name  are 
mounted  with  gold  and  silver,  and  are  fitted  with  decorated  stems 
to  which  the  bowl  is  attached.  The  nut  is  filled  with  water,  and 
the  smoke  is  then  drawn  from  it  by  the  tube  on  the  other  side.  — 
The  continuation  of  the  street,  beyond  the  Banque  Ottomane  (PL  II;  » 
D,  4),  leads  direct  to  the  rear  of  the  citadel  (p.  304),  the  substruc- 
tions of  which,  consisting  of  large,  finely  hewn,  drafted  blocks,  are 
visible  beyond  a  moat. 

At  the  Banque  Ottomane  (see  above)  we  turn  into  the  Siik  el- 
'Asruruyeh,  a  lane  to  the  right,  flanked  with  shops,  some  of  which 
are  in  the  European  style,  where  glass  of  European  manufacture 
and  utensils  for  the  table  and  the  kitchen  are  sold.  On  small  open 
tables  lies  the  greenish  henna  with  which  the  Arab  women  stain 
their  finger-nails  red.  Attar  of  roses  in  small  phials  is  also  offered 
at  a  high  price.  —  In  the  next  bazaar  {Suk  Bab  el-Berid,  so  named 
from  the  gate  of  the  mosque,  PI.  I,  xi,  D  4;  p.  313),  which  bears 
a  little,  to  the  right,  drapers'  wares  are  sold ,  a  large  proportion  of 
which  are  European.  The  street  soon  leads  back  to  the  Siik  el-Ha- 
midtyeh  (PI.  II,  D  4;  p.  304).  Opposite  is  the  entrance  to  the  Khan 
cl-Oumrak  ('Customs  Khan',  formerly  the  seat  of  the  customs),  con- 
taining European  goods.  Following  the  Suk  el-Hamidiyeh  to  the  E., 
we  come  in  about  50  paces  to  a  cross-street.  To  the  left  is  a  small 
street  loading  to  the  Medreseh  of  the  Melik  ez-Zahir  Beibars 
(PI.  II,  D,  E,  4;  p.  315).  In  a  straight  direction  we  descend  a 
few  steps  into  the  bazaar-street  of  the  Booksellers  (leading  to 
the  Ommayade  Mosque,  p.  313),  in  which  only  five  small  book- 
shops now  remain.  Above  the  entrance  to  the  Booksellers'  Bazaar 
rises  an  old  Triumphal  Arch  (PI.  II;  D,  E,  4),  whence  a  double  row 
of  columns  once  led  to  the  ancient  temple  (p.  313).  The  relics  of 
these  columns  may  be  seen  from  the  lower  end  of  the  Booksellers' 
Bazaar  or  (better)  from  the  minaret  of  the  Mosque  (p.  314).  On  six 
Corinthian  capitals  rests  a  highly  ornate  architrave,  one  end  of  which 
is  adjoined  by  the  remains  of  the  arch.  The  height  of  the  arch  must' 
have  been  nearly  70  ft.  —  Instead  of  descending  the  steps  leading  to 
the  Booksellers'  Bazaar,  we  turn  to  the  right  (S.)  and  follow  the 
Drapers' Bazaar,  where,  especially  in  the  afternoon,  we  encounter 
a  crowd  of  women  enveloped  in  their  white  sheets  and  covered  with 
fine  flowered  veils,  waddling  from  shop  to  shop,  carefully  examining 
numberless  articles  which  they  do  not  mean  to  buy,  and  vehemently 
chaffering  about  inflnitesimally  small  sums.  So  eager  arc  these 
customers  to  gain  their  point,  that  they  are  sometimes  seen  coquet- 
tishly  raising  their  veils  by  way  of  enforcing  their  argument;  but 


306    Eow<c  35. 


DAMASCUS. 


2.  Bazaars. 


in  this  jealous  and  fanatical  city  it  is  impolite  and  even  dangerous 
to  be  too  observant  of  the  fair  sex  (comp.  p.  xxvii). 

In  a  straight  direction  we  next  enter  the  Cloth  Bazaar,  which  is 
well  stocked  with  German  and  English  materials.  The  Damascene 
attaches  much  importance  to  fine  clothes,  and  delights  to  have  liis 
kumbdz,  or  long  robe,  made  of  the  best  possible  stuff.  This  bazaar 
generally  drives  a  brisk  trade.  The  crowd  is  densest  before  the 
great  festival  of  Beiram,  that  being  the  orthodox  season  for  a  new 
outfit.  As  Orientals  generally  sleep  in  their  clothes,  they  wear  them 
out  very  quickly.  —  In  this  bazaar,  to  the  right,  is  the  Mausoleum 
of  Nureddm  (d.  1174;  p.  298;  PI.  II,  D  4).  Non-Muslims  are  not 
admitted.   The  street  terminates  in  the  Suk  et-Tawileh  (p.  307). 

Instead  of  following  the  Cloth  Bazaar,  we  may  turn  down  the  first 
side-street  to  the  left,  in  which  is  the  Svk  cl-Har'r  ('Silk  Bazaar', 
now  chiefly  occupied  by  shops  with  manufactures),  and  which  leads 
into  the  region  of  the.  Khans,  the  seat  of  the  wholesale  trade.  We 
first  reach  the  Khan  el-Harlr,  or  Silk  Khan,  now  used  by  the  fur- 
riers. Immediately  afterwards  the  street  leads  into  a  broad  cross- 
road. Keeping  to  the  left  (in  the  direction  of  the  mosque),  we  come 
to  the  Sazaar  of  the  Goldsmiths  {Bazar  des  Orfevres;  PI.  II,  E  4). 
Few  specimens  of  the  goldsmith's  art  are  exhibited  here,  as  each  of 
the  dealers  keeps  his  precious  wares  carefully  locked  up  in  a  chest 
before  him;  but  they  are  always  ready  to  show  them  when  desired. 
The  necklaces  and  bracelets  are  too  clumsy  to  be  pleasing.  Valuable 
jewels  and  interesting  coins  are  sometimes  to  be  met  with,  but 
exorbitant  prices  are  asked.  The  filigree  work  is  inferior  to  the 
Italian;  the  prettiest  specimens  of  it  are  the  lzarf\  or  saucers,  in 
which  the  coffee-cups  are  handed  round. 

Adjoining  the  S.  side  of  the  mosque  lies  the  Bazaar  of  the  Joiners, 
where  pretty,  though  not  highly  finished,  objects  in  wood,  inlaid 
with  mother-of-pearl,  are  largely  manufactured.  Among  these  arc 
mirrors,  kabkdb  (a  kind  of  pattens ,  worn  in  the  baths,  and  by  I 
women),  large  chests  in  which  the  wedding-outfit  of  the  women  of 
Damascus  is  presented  to  them  (provided  by  their  future  husbands"), 
cradles,  small  tables,  and  the  polygonal  stools  (kursi)  which  the  i 
natives  use  as  dining-tables  (p.  303). 

"We   return   to  the   E.  end  of  the  Suk   el-llarir  (see  above), 
"and,  passing  the  latter,  continue  in  a  S.  direction.     Here  on  the 
loft  (W.)  are  the  shops  of  the  Shoemakers,  where  red  and  yellow  ■ 
pointed    shoes,  ladies'  slippers   of  very  soft  yellow  leather,  chil-j 
dren's  shoes  embroidered  with  silver  thread,  and  heavy,  hobnailed! 
boots   for  peasants   are   displayed    in  profusion   and    at  moderate 
prices.  —  Farther  on  we  pass  the  Tobacconists'  Stalls.   At  the  point 
where  the  street  turns,  on  the  left,  stands  the  House  of  Asrad  Pasha, 
one  of  the  handsomest  in  Damascus.     Admission  is  obtained  with 
the  aid  of  the  dragoman.    From  this  house  the  street  leads  into  a 
bazaar  of  drugs  and  sweetmeats. 


2.  Bazaars. 


DAMASCUS. 


38.  Route.    307 


\\q  next  reach  the  Khan  Asrad  Pasha  (PI.  II ;  E,  4),  the  largest 
and  1  andsomest  in  Damascus.  Around  the  couTt,  and  along  the 
galleiy  running  round  the  first  floor  at  the  hack,  are  rows  of  shops. 

T:ie  building  is  constructed  of  alternate  courses  of  black  and  yellowish 
stone.  The  entrance  consists  of  a  lofty  'stalactite'  vault.  The  court  is 
divide  1  into  nine  squares  by  four  large  pillars  connected  by  four  arcb.es, 
which  again  are  connected  with  the  walls  by  eight  other  arches,  and 
above  the  squares  rise  nine  domes  enriched  with  arabesques  and  pierced 
with  lofty  windows.  Some  of  these  fell  in  during  the  18th.  century  and 
have  been  imperfectly  restored.  The  centre  of  the  court  is  occupied  by 
a  large  round  basin  of  water. 

After  a  few  paces  the  lane  leads  into  the  Long  Bazaar  (Suk 
et-TawUeh).  This  street,  which  is  one  of  the  longest  in  Damascus, 
rims  straight  from  W.  to  E.  almost  through  the  whole  town,  and  ends 
at  the  E.  gate  (Bab  esh-Sherki,  p.  311~).  It  answers  to  the  'Street 
which  is  called  Straight'  (Acts  ix.  11;  RueDroite,  PL  I,  D-F,  4,  5) 
or.  as  it  is  still  named  (though  perhaps  by  a  literary  revival),  Derb 
el-Mustuklm.  In  ancient  times  it  possessed  a  colonnade,  and  traces 
of  the  columns  are  still  discovered  in  and  in  front  of  the  houses 
( p.  308).  The  broad,  clean,  and  airy  bazaar  with  its  carriage-road  is 
the  work  of  Midhat  Pasha  (p.  300)  and  is  called  after  him  El-Mid- 
haiiyeh.  The  continuation  of  the  street  eastwards  is  described  at 
p.  311.  We  now  turn  to  the  right  (AV\).  Close  by,  on  the  S.  side,  is 
the  Khun  Suleiman  Pasha  (PI.  II;  D,  E,  5),  in  which  silks  and,  in 
particular,  Persian  carpets  are  sold.  The  patterns  of  the  genuine 
Persian  carpets  are  more  quaint  than  pretty;  but  the  colours  wear 
admirably.  The  prices  vary  considerably  according  to  the  demand. 
— -  To  the  right,  by  the  opening  of  the  Cloth  Bazaar  (p.  306),  is  the 
Silk  Bazaar,  which  is  interesting  from  the  fact  that  it  contains  more 
of  the  produce  of  native  industry  than  any  of  the  others.  The  eye 
is  chiefly  attracted  by  the  silk  kefflych,  or  shawls  for  the  head.  The 
Beduins  and  peasants  are  especially  partial  to  those  with  gaudy  yel- 
low and  red  stripes,  but  the  white  ones  with  narrow  coloured  edges 
are  in  tetter  taste.  Those  of  smaller  size  may  be  used  for  the  neck, 
and  will  be  found  very  durable.  They  cost  from  50  to  150  pi., 
according  to  quality  and  size.  The  thin  silk  scarfs  (sherbeh)  and  the 
heavy  silks  are  often  very  beautiful.  Another  speciality  consists  in 
the  tab:e- covers  of  red  or  black  woollen  cloth  embroidered  with 
coloureii  silk  (40-70  fr.).  The  letters  on  them  are  generally  mean- 
ingless; being  purely  ornamental.  The  embroidered,  or  rather 
woven,  tobacco-pouches,  slippers,  and  other  articles  all  come  from 
Lebanon,  and  may  be  purchased  more  cheaply  at  Beirut.  The  fancy 
dresses,  such  as  jackets  for  children,  are  sometimes  very  tasteful. 
Another  characteristic  Oriental  article  is  the  'abdyeh,  or  woollen 
cloak  worn  by  the  peasants  and  Beduins,  which  is  to  be  had  here 
in  evfsrj  variety,  from  the  coarse  striped  brown  or  black  and  Avhite 
to  the  ftnie  brown  and  braided  mantle  of  Baghdad.  Cotton  fabrics 
are  also  manufactured  at  Damascus  and  Horns.  The  handkerchiefs 
streaked  with  yellow  or  white  silk  thread,  which  the  Muslims  use 


Route  38. 


DAMASCUS. 


2.  Bazaars. 


as  turbans,  are  also  worthy  of  mention.  Most  of  the  women's  veils 
sold  here  are  imported  from  the  Swiss  canton  of  Glarus. 

Near  theW.  end  of  the  Suk  et-Tawileh,  which  is  continued  in  a 
straight  direction  to  the  Suk  es-Sinaniyeh  (p.  309),  a  lane  on  the 
left  leads  to  the  Suk  el-Kutn  (Cotton  Bazaar).  This  is  dedicated  to 
mattress-makers  and  wool-carders,  who  hold  the  carding  instruments 
with  their  toes.  The  character  of  the  crowd  indicates  that  we  are 
approaching  the  peasant  and  Beduin  quarter.  The  small,  tattooed 
Beduin  women  are  frequently  seen  stealing  shyly  along,  unveiled, 
and  feasting  their  eyes  on  all  the  splendours  of  the  great  city. 
To  the  left  we  obtain  a  view  of  the  court  of  the  great  mosque  of 
Es-Sinaniyeh  (PI.  II ;  D,  5). 

The  oblong  court  ia  paved  with  marble;  on  one  side  is  a  colonnade 
of  six  black  columns.  The  principal  porta!  on  the  E.  side  is  interesting 
on  account  of  its  rich  stalactites  or  brackets.  The  minaret  is  entirely 
covered  with  blue  and  green  glazing  (kisMni).  The  stone  balustrade  of  the 
gallery  which  runs  round  it  is  of  delicate  open-work,  resembling  lace. 

Tho  bazaar  is  here  called  Suk  el-'Attdrin,  or  Spice  Market. 
Drugs  and  spices  are  again  displayed  in  interminable  rows  of  boxes 
and  glasses.  At  the  point  where  the  bazaar  joins  the  broad  cross- 
street,  the  street  to  the  left  (Suk  es-Sinaniyeh;  PI.  I,  D  5;  p.  309) 
leads  into  the  suburb  of  Meidtin  (p.  309),  while  that  in  a  straight 
direction  takes  us  to  the  suburb  of  Kanawdt  (PL  I,  xiv;  D,  5)  named 
after  a  large  conduit. 

We  turn  to  the  right  and  go  up  the  street  to  the  N.  The  Suk 
et-Tawileh,  which  opens  on  the  right,  offers  few  attractions  from 
the  point  where  we  left  it  (see  above).  During  the  construction  of 
the  bazaar  a  number  of  columns  were  discovered,  belonging  to  the 
'Straight  Street'  (p.  307).  —  The  broad  street  along  which  we  are 
now  proceeding  is  one  of  the  main  streets  of  Damascus  and  runs  in 
almost  a  straight  line  to  the  N.  from  the  S.  end  of  the  Meidan  to 
the  citadel.  On  both  sides  are  many  restaurants  (p.  302).  We  soon 
quit  the  covered  bazaar  and  reach  the  Suk  el-Kharrdtln,  or  Market 
of  the  Turners.  The  large  mosque  on  the  left,  with  the  white  and 
red  stripes,  is  the  Jumi'  el-Kharrdtin,  beyond  which,  on  the  same 
side,  is  the  handsome  Jdmi'  ed-Derwishtyeh  (ca.200  years  old),  which 
gives  its  name  to  the  prolongation  of  the  street.  Farther  on,  to  the 
left,  is  a  handsome  bath,  Hammdm  ed-Derwishtyeh  (or  el-Malikeli).\_ 
The  street  is  shaded  here  by  a  few  plane-trees.  There  are  several 
stalls  here  where  the  red  fezzes  are  ironed  on  round  moulds.  A 
few  paces  farther  on  we  again  find  ourselves  at  the  entrance  to  the 
Greek  Bazaar  (p.  304). 


3.  Meidan. 


DAMASCUS. 


38.  Route.    309 


3.  Walk  through  the  Meidan  and  round  the  City  Walls 
(Christian  Quarter). 

(Walk  or  drive.)  The  long  and  broad  bazaar  which  leads  from 
the  citadel  to  the  Es-Sinaniyeh  Mosque  (p.  308)  continues  in  a  S.E. 
direction  as  the  Suk  es-Sinaniyeh  (PI.  I ;  D,  5).  It  is  entirely  covered 
by  a  wooden  roof  resting  upon  stone  arches,  29!/2  ft-  in  height.  This 
is  an  emporium  for  the  requirements  of  the  Beduins  and  the 
peasantry ,  such  as  clothing ,  sheepskins ,  boots ,  weapons,  pipes 
('aeons',  smoked  without  a  tube),  milking-tubs  ,  coloured  round 
straw  mats  which  serve  as  dining- tables,  and  oaken  mortars  for 
coffee  (considered  the  best).  —  On  quitting  this  bazaar  we  observe 
the  handsome  Medreset  es-Sinaniyeh,  with  stalactite  enrichments 
on  the  gateway  and  windows.  On  the  right  we  next  see  the  Jdmi' 
cs-Sabuntych,  built  of  layers  of  black  and  white  stone,  and  adorned 
with  tasteful  arabesques.  Opposite  is  the  cemetery  Makbaret  Bab 
es-Saghir  (PL  I,  D  5;  p.  310).  Farther  on,  to  the  left,  is  a  tomb 
covered  by  two  domes;  on  the  right  is  the  Jdmi'  esh-Sheibdntyeh  and 
several  dilapidated  schools  (medresehs).  On  the  right,  where  the 
street  bends,  rises  the  mosque  Jdmi'  el-Idein  (PL  I,  11;  D,  5).  We 
follow  the  bend,  and  soon  see  the  Meidan  lying  before  us  to  the  S. 

The  suburb  of  Meidan  (PI.  I;  C,  D,  6-8),  which  is  fully  1  M.  in 
length,  deserves  a  visit,  as  its  character  is  materially  different  from 
that  of  the  city  itself.  The  whole  suburb  is  of  comparatively  modern 
origin,  and  the  numerous  dilapidated  mosques  on  each  side  of  the 
road  have  stood  at  most  for  a  century  or  two.  The  houses  are  poorer 
than  those  in  the  interior  of  the  town,  Part  of  the  bazaar  is  occupied 
by  smiths,  and  part  by  corn-dealers,  whose  grain  is  heaped  up  in  open 
sheds.  The  most  interesting  scene  to  be  witnessed  in  this  quarter 
is  the  arrival  of  a  caravan.  A  long  string  of  camels  stalk  through 
the  street ,  accompanied  by  ragged  Beduins  with  matted  hair  and 
wild  appearance.  In  the  midst  of  the  procession  may  be  seen  the 
llauranian  bringing  his  corn  to  market,  or  the  Kurd  shepherd,  clad 
in  his  square  cloak  of  felt,  driving  his  flock  to  the  slaughter-house. 
The  Beduins,  poor  as  they  seem,  often  ride  beautiful  horses,  guid- 
ing them  with  a  halter  only,  and  they  are  usually  armed  with  a  long 
lance  or,  more  rarely,  with  a  gun.  Some  of  the  Beduins,  called 
Sleibis,  live  chiefly  by  gazelle  hunting,  and  wear  gazelle  skins,  but 
these  rarely  come  to  the  town.  Sometimes  a  Druse  of  high  rank 
(p.  lxxiii)  may  be  seen  riding  in  at  the  head  of  an  armed  troop.  His 
appearance  is  imposing.  His  turban  is  snowy  white,  he  is  equipped 
with  a  lance,  handsome  pistols,  a  sword,  and  perhaps  a  gun  also, 
and  his  horse  is  often  richly  caparisoned.  There  are  two  days  in 
the  year  when  examples  of  almost  all  these  types  may  be  seen  at 
once,  viz.  the  day  on  which  the  great  caravan  of  pilgrims  starts  for 
Mecca,  and  (still  more  favourable)  the  day  of  its  return  (p.  310). 

The  following  mosques  are  situated  in  the  Meidan.   On  the  right, 


II 


■ 


310 


jRoute  35. 


DAMASCUS. 


3.  0<i/  WaH. 


^ 


the  Jdmi'  Stdt  Jumdn.  Then,  on  the  right,  the  handsome  Jdmi' 
Menjik,  named  after  the  Emir  Menjik  (d.  1669),  with  columns 
painted  red  at  the  entrance  and  in  the  court.  On  the  left,  the  Jdmi' 
er-Iiifd'i.  On  the  left  lies  the  Hulcla  quarter  of  the  town,  which 
contains  several  handsome  houses  and  some  weaving -factories. 
Opposite  a  guard-house  is  the  more  recently  built  mosque  Kd'at  et~ 
Tdniyeh.  Next  comes  the  Mesjid  Sa'deddhi,  and  on  the  right  the 
beautiful  mosque  Kd'at  el-Ula,  with  fine  arabesques  and  a  stalactite 
gate  between  two  domes,  but  sadly  dilapidated.  On  the  left  is  the 
mosque  Shihdbcddin.  The  end  of  the  Meidan  is  named  Bauwdbet 
Allah  (PI.  I;  B,  C,  8)  or 'Gate  of  God',  so  called  as  being  the  starting- 
point  of  the  pilgrimage.  Adjoining  is  the  mosque  Mastabet  Sa'deddtn. 
Outside  the  limits  of  the  town  lies  a  cemetery,  near  which  olive 
plantations  begin.  Farther  on,  some  10  min.  beyond  the-  last  houses, 
are  the  two  Meidan  railway-stations  (p.  294):  the  El-Muzeirtb  Sta- 
tion of  the  French  line  (right;  p.  156;  PI.  I,  B  8)  and  the  Kadem 
Station  (PI. I;  C,  8)  of  the  Hejaz  Railway  (left;  p.  151). 

The  Pilgrimage  (p.  lxxi)  properly  begins  at  Damascus,  where  the  holy 
tent  of  the  pilgrim-caravan  is  preserved  in  the  great  mosque  (p.  313). 
But  since  steamboats  have  plied  on  the  lied  Sea  and  the  Persian  Gulf, 
few  Persians  and  N.  Africans  come  to  Damascus,  though  a,  few  Circas- 
sians and  inhabitants  of  Central  Asia  are  still  to  be  seen.  In  1905  the 
pilgrimage-caravan  returned  about  the  beginning  of  April,  and  each  suc- 
cessive year  it  arrives  about  twelve  days  earlier  than  the  year  before. 
On  these  occasions  are  seen  the  grotesque  camel  litters,  rudely  made  of 
wood,  covered  with  coloured  cloth,  and  open  in  front,  containing  two 
inmates  reclining  on  beds.  The  litter  is  sometimes  borne  by  two  camels, 
one  before  and  the  other  behind,  which  are  trained  to  keep  step  with 
each  other.  The  camels  arc  adorned  with  a  headgear  of  leathern  straps, 
to  which  shells,  coins,  and  small  bells  arc  attached.  A  handsome,  richly 
caparisoned  camel  bears  a  large  litter,  which  is  hung  with  green  cloth 
embroidered  with  gold,  and  contains  an  old  Koran  and  the  green  flag  of 
the  prophet.  The  pilgrims,  who  have  an  eye  to  business  as  well  as  reli- 
gion, bring  back  goods  from  Mecca;  the  Damascus  merchants  therefore 
travel  as  far  as  the  Hauran,  as  does  also  the  Governor,  to  meet  the  return- 
ing cavalcade.  The  party  is  accompanied  by  many  half-naked  dervishes 
and  by  an  escort  of  soldiers,  Druses,  and  Beduins. 

We  return  to  the  JamT  el-Idein  (p.  309),  and  thence  visit  the 
Makbaret  Bdb  es-Saghlr,  or  Burial  Ground  (PL  I;  D,  5,  6). 

Two  of  the  wives  of  Mohammed,  anil  his  daughter  Fatima,  are  in- ; 
terrcd  here.  Over  their  grave  rises  a  modern  dome  made  of  clay.  No] 
tracts  i>f  the  tomb  ofMu'awiya  (p.  298)  now  exists.  On  Thursday  women] 
come  to  mourn  at  the  graves. 

Beyond  the  burial-ground  stands  the  mosque  Jdmi'  el-Jcrdh,  \ 
which  is  said  to  contain  the  tomb  of  Abu  'Ubeida  (p.  298).  Fronij 
this  point  we  follow  the  road  leading  round  the  outside  of  the  walls. 

The  Walk  round  the  City  Walls  occupies  2-21/2  hrs.  —  The 
two  or  three  lowest  courses  of  the  City  Wall  are  Roman,  jointed 
without  mortar,  the  central  part  is  of  the  Arabian,  and  the  upper] 
part  of  the  Turkish  period.  Round  and  square  towers  flank  the] 
wall  at  intervals,  but  are  mostly  in  a  tottering  condition.  The] 
greenish  herb  with  white  flowers  and  an  unpleasant  smell  which] 


3.  Christian  Quarter.       DAMASCUS. 


38.  Route.   311 


grows  wild  outside  the  gates  of  Damascus  is  the  Peyanum  harmala. 
One  of  the  towers  hears  an  inscription  containing  the  name  of 
Nureddin  (p.  298)  and  the  date  664  (1171).  To  the  right,  a  little 
farther  on,  we  observe  a  tomb  among  the  fields  with  a  white  dome 
( 1M.  I;  F,  6),  where  BilCil  el-Habeshi  (of  Ethiopia),  Mohammed's 
muezzin,  is  said  to  be  buried.  Adjacent  to  it  is  a  minaret.  After 
2  min.  more  we  pass  a  built-up  gate  in  the  town-wall.  This  was 
the  old  Bab  Kisdn  (PI.  I;  F,  5),  which  was  erected  by  a  person  of  that 
name  in  the  time  of  Mu'awiya  (p.  298)  on  the  site  of  an  older  gate. 
At  the  Bab  Kisan  (above  tbe  Turkish  wall !)  is  still  pointed  out  the 
window  where  St.  Paul  was  let  down  in  a  basket  by  night  (Acts  ix.  25; 
2  Cor.  xi.  32,  33).  Opposite  this  gate,  about  50  paces  distant,  is  the  Tomb 
of  Xt.  George,  a  porter  who  is  said  to  have  assisted  St.  Paul  in  his  escape. 
This  tomb  is  much  revered  by  the  Christians.  The  conversion  of  St.  Paul 
was  localized  in  the  middle  ages  at  the  village  of  Kdkeb,  about  9  31.  to 
the  S.W.  of  the  town,  but  since  the  18th  cent,  tradition  has  conveniently 
fixed  the  site  nearer  the  Christian  burial-grounds,  which  lie  about  '/z  M. 
to  the  E.  of  the  Bab  Kisan.  In  odc  of  them  is  interred  Henry  Thomas 
Buckle,  the  eminent  English  historian  (d.  1862). 

About  500  paces  farther  on  we  reach  the  S.K.  corner  of  the 
wall,  where  we  perceive  the  remains  of  an  ancient  tower  with 
drafted  stones.  Nearly  opposite  is  a  spot  where  the  caravans  which 
travel  between  Damascus  and  Baghdad  two  or  three  times  a  year 
generally  encamp.  These  merchants  bring  Persian  carpets  and  tum- 
bak  (tobacco  for  the  water-pipe,  which  grows  in  Persia  only,  see 
p.  xxix)  from  Baghdad,  and  carry  back  European  and  other  wares. 
This  trade  is  chiefly  in  the  hands  of  the  rAgeil  Beduins  (p.  337). 

We  continue  to  follow  the  wall,  near  which  rope-makers  busily 
ply  their  craft.  On  the  wall  above  are  several  houses  of  the  Jewish 
quarter.  We  thus  reach  the  Bab  esh-Sherki  (PI.  I;  F,  4,  5),  the  East 
Gate  of  the  city,  which  is  of  Roman  origin.  It  consisted  of  a  large 
gateway,  38  ft.  high  and  20  ft.  wide,  and  two  smaller  gates  of  half 
the  size;  but  the  principal  gate  and  the  smaller  S.  gate  have  long 
been  built  up.  The  small  gate  on  the  N.  side  is  the  present  entrance 
to  the  town.    Above  the  gate  rises  a  minaret. 

[Fkom  the  East  Gate  back  to  the  Bazaar  along  the  Straight 
Street  (p.  307).  Within  the  gate  we  turn  into  the  first  lane  to  the 
right,  and  in  3  min.  reach  what  is  traditionally  known  as  the  House 
of  Ananias,  now  converted  into  a  small  church,  with  a  crypt,  and 
belonging  to  the  Latins.  We  are  now  in  the  Christian  Quarter 
(PI.  I,  viii;  F,  4),  where  the  lanes  are  narrow  and  poor,  and  the 
houses  are  in  a  ruinous  condition.  The  second  street  on  the  right 
leads  to  the  Leper  House,  or  Hadlra.  Following  the  Straight  Street 
towards  the  W.,  we  reach  a  Barrack  (PI.  I;  F,  5)  on  the  left.  A  street 
to  the  right  leads  from  the  barrack  to  the  N.  through  the  Christian 
quarter  to  the  Gate  of  St.  Thomas  (p.  312).  In  this  street  are  the 
large  Monastery  and  School  of  the  Luzarists  on  the  right.  The  Emperor 
Frederick  III.  of  Germany  occupied  the  handsome  house  to  the  left 
in  1869. 


312   i?ou«e  35. 


DAMASCUS.     3.  Gate  o/"  -S«.  T/iomus. 


In  the  Straight  Street,  farther  on,  we  come  to  a  bazaar  chiefly 
in  possession  of  Joiners.  Arabian  locks,  of  exceedingly  simple  but 
ingenious  construction,  are  manufactured  here.  Then  we  reach  the 
bazaar  of  the  Box  Makers  and  the  beginning  of  the  Midhatiyeh 
(p.  307).] 

Continuing  our  walk  along  the  outer  side  of  the  town -wall, 
beyond  the  East  Gate  (p.  311),  we  observe  on  the  right,  between 
the  Gate  and  the  N.E.  corner  of  the  town-wall,  near  the  tombs,  a 
dilapidated  building  also  occupied  by  lepers,  which  is  styled  the 
House  of  Naaman  the  Syrian  (2  Kings  v. ;  PI.  I,  F  4).  Here  again 
the  city-wall  contains  some  ancient  materials.  The  corner-tower  of 
the  wall  was  erected  by  Melik  es-Salih  Eyyub,  one  of  the  last  of 
the  Eyyubides  (1249).  At  a  bend  in  the  road  is  the  large  tomb  of 
Arsldn,  a  famous  sheikh  of  the  time  of  Nureddin.  The  road  now 
leads  to  the  Gate  of  St.  Thomas. 

The  Gate  of  St.  Thomas  (Bdb  Tumd;  PI.  I,  F  4)  is  in  good 
preservation.  The  Christian  Quarter  (p.  311)  lie?  to  the  S.  of  this 
gate.  A  road  to  the  W.  skirts  the  old  town-wall  and  the  canal  of  the 
Barada,  which  is  here  called  El-Akrubdni.  This  part  of  the  wall  is 
built  of  large  hewn  stones,  and  probably  dates  from  the  Byzantine 
period.  On  the  left  bank  of  the  stream  lies  the  Mahallet  el-Farrdtn, 
the  quarter  of  the  tanners  and  furriers.  "We  next  reach  the  Bdb  es~ 
Saldm  (PI.  I,  v;  F,  4),  which  apparently  belongs  to  the  same  period  as 
the  Bab  Tuma.  A  lane  called  Bein  es-Surein  ('between  the  two  walls') 
leads  hence  round  the  inside  of  the  old  wall.  The  wall  on  the  right  is 
concealed  by  houses  built  in  front  of  it,  and  it  is  uncertain  whether 
that  on  the  left  still  exists.  We  now  come  to  two  gates,  the  inner  of 
which  is  called  the  Bdb  el-Farddts  (PI.  II;  E,  4),  the  outer  (beyond 
the  Barada)  the  Bdb  el-Amdra  (PI.  II;  E  4).  The  lane  next  leads 
to  the  former  Bazaar  of  the  Water-Pipe  Makers  (p.  305). 


The  broad  road  running  towards  the  N.  from  the  Gate  of  St.  Tho- 
mas (see  above)  is  the  great  caravan-route  to  Horns  and  Palmyra. 
^Beyond  and  at  the  arm  of  the  river  are  several  pleasant  cafe's  and 
^"^  Public  Gardens,  chiefly  frequented  by  Christians.  The  favourite 
beverage  here  is  raki,  or  raisin  brandy,  and  Arabic  songs  are  fre- 
quently heard.  The  Arabian  style  of  singing  is  very  unpleasing  to 
European  ears,  and  consists  of  recitative  cadences  loudly  shouted 
out  in  a  shrill  falsetto,  sometimes  accompanied  by  a  kind  of  guitar. 
A  stray  Bohemian  band  sometimes  finds  its  way  here.  After  2  min. 
we  turn  into  the  street  to  the  left  (that  on  the  right  leads  to  Jobar, 
p.  317).  The  street  first  passes  through  gardens;  a  road  on  the  right 
leads  to  the  beautiful  cemetery  of  Ed-Dahd&h,  named  from  a  com- 
panion of  Mohammed  who  was  buried  here.  We  then  pass  the  Jdmi' 
el-Mu'allak  on  the  left.  Continuing  to  follow  the  street,  we  arrive  at 
the  market-place  to  which  the  inhabitants  of  theMerj  district,  i.e.  the 
pasture  country  (p.  317)  beyond  the  extensive  gardens  of  the  environs, 


4.  Omayyade  Mosque.      DAMASCUS. 


38.  Route.  313 


bring  their  timber  for  sale.  On  the  right  lies  the  suburb  El-'Amura. 
On  the  left  a  road  leads  to  the  citadel  (p.  304).  On  the  broad  main 
road  the  market  for  saddlers  (saddles  for  beasts  of  burden)  begins, 
which  soon  brings  us  to  the  plane-tree  mentioned  at  p.  303. 


4.  The  Omayyade  Mosque  and  its  Neighbourhood. 

Fee  to  the  sheikh  who  acts  as  conductor,  1  mej.  each  person,  or  slightly 
less  in  proportion  for  a  large  party;  1-2  pi.  more  for  the  use  of  slippers 
(obtained  at  the  gate). 

The  great  *0mayyade  Mosque  (Jdmi'  el-Vmawt;  PI.  II,  E  4)  lies 
at  the  E.  end  of  the  Silk  el-Hamidiyeh  (p.  304).  It  is  143  yds.  in 
length  and  41^2  yds.  wide.  The  usual  entrance  is  by  the  W.  gate, 
the  Bab  el-Bend  ('Post  Gate' ;  PI.  I,  xi,  D,  4),  at  the  end  of  the 
Booksellers'  Bazaar:    [For  the  other  gates,  see  p.  315.] 

It  is  probable  that  a  heathen  temple  stood  originally  on  the  site  of 
the  present  mosque.  The  building  was  converted  into  a  Christian  church, 
probably  by  the  Emperor  Arcadius  (395-408).  It  once  contained  a  casket 
in  which  the  'head  of  the  Baptist1  was  shown,  and  was  thence  named  the 
Church  of  St.  John.  To  this  day  the  Damascenes  swear  by  the  head  of 
'Yahia'.  Khalid  and  Abu  'Ubeida  (p.  298)  are.  said  to  have  met  near  this 
church,  in  consequence  of  which  the  E.  part  was  regarded  as  conquered, 
while  the  undisturbed  possession  of  the  W.  part  was  guaranteed  to 
the  Christians.  Muslims  and  Christians  entered  their  place  of  prayer 
by  the  same  gate.  It  was  not  till  the  beginning  of  the  8th  cent,  that 
Welid  (705-715)  deprived  the  Christians  of  their  part  of  the  church  and 
gave  them  in  return  the  guaranteed  possession  of  several  other  churches 
in  and  around  Damascus.  The  khalif  then  proceeded,  without  entirely 
demolishing  the  old  walls,  to  erect  a  magnificent  mosque  on  the  site 
of  the  church.  This  building  is  extravagantly  praised  by  Arabic  authors. 
The  architects  were  Greeks,  and  1200  artists  were  said  to  have  been  sum- 
moned from  Constantinople  to  assist.  Antique  columns  were  collected  in 
the  towns  of  Syria  and  used  in  the  decoration  of  the  mosque.  The  pavement 
and  the  lower  walls  were  covered  with  the  rarest  marbles,  while  the  upper 
parts  of  the  walls  and  the  dome  were  enriched  with  mosaics.  The  prayer- 
niches  were  inlaid  with  precious  stones,  and  golden  vines  were  entwined 
over  the  arches  of  the  niches.  The  ceiling  was  of  wood  inlaid  with  gold, 
and  from  it  hung  600  golden  lamps.  Prodigious  sums  are  said  to  have 
been  expended  on  the  work;  one  story  relates  that  the  accounts  of  the 
various  artificers  rendered  to  Welid  formed  eighteen  mules'1  loads.  — 
'Omar  ibn  'Abd  el-rAziz  (717-720)  caused  the  golden  lamps  to  be  re- 
placed by  others  of  less  value.  In  1069  part  of  the  mosque  was  burned 
down,  and  since  the  conquest  of  Damascus  by  Timur  the  building  has 
never  been  restored  to  its  ancient  magnificence.  In  1893  the  mosque 
was  again  much  injured  by  fire ,  but  has  since  then  been  restored  in 
the  former  style. 

Several  of  the  older  parts  of  the  mosque  are  still  preserved, 
such  as  the  handsome  Entrance  Archway  on  the  W.  side  (p.  315), 
and  the  remains  of  a  gateway  on  the  S.  side  (p.  315). 

The  first  glance  at  the  Intbbior  of  the  mosque  shows  us  that  the 
plan  is  that  of  a  basilica,  with  a  nave  and  aisles  formed  by  two  rows 
of  columns.  The  columns,  which  are  23  ft.  high,  are  surmounted 
by  'colonnettes',  to  which  round-arched  windows  in  the  outer  wall 
correspond.  Above  these  are  richly  painted  beams  supporting  pointed 
ceilings,  from  which  numerous  lamps  are  suspended.    Towards  the 


314 


Route  38. 


DAMASCUS,      d.  Omayyadc  Mosque. 


court  the  interior  is  open,  but  the  columns  on  this  side  are  now 
concealed  by  piers  of  masonry.  On  the  W.  wall  are  written  the 
names  of  Abu  Bekr,  fOmar,  'Othinan,  and  rAli,  the  first  four 
khalifs,  in  large  letters.  On  the  S.  wall  runs  a  band  of  large  and 
heavy  writing,  being  an  extract  from  the  Koran  (Sureh  ix.  18  to 
end).  Hound  three  sides  of  the  interior  run  the  Surehs  xxv  and 
lxvi,  and  the  capitals  of  the  columns  are  enriched  with  texts  from 
the  Koran.  In  the  S.  wall,  above  the  pulpit  and  the  chief  prayer- 
niche,  are  three  lofty  round-arched  windows  filled  with  fine  stained 
glass.  Other  niches  (kibleh)  belong  to  the  Shafe'ites  (p.  lxxi),  and 
that  by  the  dome  to  the  Hanefites,  the  principal  sect  at  Damascus. 
The  E.  'kibleh'  is  also  called  Mihrdb  es-Sahdbeh,  or  prayer-niche  of 
the  companions  of  Mohammed. 

The  Domh  is  called  Kubbel  cn-Nisr  (dome  of  the  vulture),  as 
the  aisles  of  the  mosque  seen  from  this  point  in  the  transept  have 
been  thought  to  resemble  the  outspread  wings  of  a  vulture.  It  rests 
on  an  octagonal  substructure,  on  each  side  of  which  are  two  small 
round-arched  windows.  Below  the  dome  is  a  handsome  prayer- 
niche.  The  small  niches  are  supported  by  small,  slender,  spiral 
columns. 

The  Transept  consists  of  four  massive  piers ,  covered  with 
coloured  marble.  In  the  E.  wing  rises  a  wooden  dome -covered 
building,  richly  gilded  and  surmounted  by  a  golden  crescent,  which 
is  said  to  stand  above  the  Head  of  John  the  Baptist.  The  conqueror 
Kahlid  is  said  to  have  found  this  revered  relic  in  a  crypt  below.  A 
few  paces  to  the  right  of  the  dome  is  a  handsome  pulpit,  and  in  the 
direction  of  the  court  is  the  fountain  of  John. 

We  now  enter  the  large  Court,  which  was  once  likewise  paved 
with  costly  marble.  It  is  surrounded  by  corridors ,  some  of  the 
pilasters  of  which  are  clumsy.  The  capitals  of  the  columns  are  not 
unlike  those  of  the  Egyptian  style.  On  the  projecting  square  capitals 
rest  forty-seven  round  arches,  slightly  tapered  in  horseshoe  form. 
A  pleasing  contrast  to  this  medieval  work  is  afforded  by  the  Kubbet 
el-Khazneh  (dome  of  the  treasure)  in  the  W.  part  of  the  court.  In 
the  centre  of  the  court  stands  the  Kubbet  en-Naufara  (dome  of  the 
fountain),  said  to  mark  the  central  point  of  the  route  from  Constan- 
tinople to  Mecca.  Under  this  dome  the  Muslims  perform  their  re- 
ligious ablutions.  The  third  and  most  eastern  dome  is  called  the 
Kubbet  es-Sd'a  (dome  of  hours).  —  Behind  the  passages  surrounding 
the  court  are  apartments  for  scholars  and  students. 

As  a  termination  to  our  visit  we  may  now  ascend  the  Minaret  on 
the  S.W.  side,  the  Mddinet  el-O'harbiyeh,  a  masterpiece  of  Arabian 
skill.  It  is  octagonal  in  shape,  and  has  three  galleries,  one  above 
the  other.  It  taners  towards  the  top,  and  ends  in  a  ball  crowned 
with  a  crescent.  Beyond  the  mosque  the  eye  ranges  over  a  great 
part  of  the  city.  To  the  W.  towers  the  citadel,  and  to  the  E.S.E.  the 
Greek  church.     The  rich  girdle  of  green  which  encircles  the  city 


4.  Tomb  of  Beibars.       DAMASCUS. 


38.  Route. 


315 


makes  the  barrenness  of  the  surrounding  mountains  the  more  con- 
spicuous. 1'rom  here  also  the  ancient  Triumphal  Arch  (p.  313)  is 
visible  to  the  W.  of  the  mosque.  —  The  Mddlnet  el-'Arus  ('bride's 
minaret' )  on  the  N.  side  is  said  to  have  been  built  by  Welid.  The 
minaret  on  the  S.E.  side  is  called  the  Mddinet  'ha,  from  the  tradi- 
tion that  Jesus  will  take  his  place  on  its  summit  at  the  beginning 
of  the  Last  Judgment. 

We  leave  by  the  South  Gatk  of  the  Mosque,  called  the  Bab 
ez-'/Ay'tdeh  (i.e.  Gate  of  the  Addition),  probably  owing  to  its  having 
been  newly  erected  by  the  Muslims,  and  enter  the  Bazaar  of  the 
Joiners  (p.  30fi)  on  the  left  (E.).  From  the  roof  of  this  bazaar  we 
see  the  whole  of  the  S.  side  of  the  mosque.  Near  the  end  of  the 
transept  are  seen  the  remains  of  a  beautiful  gate,  with  a  smaller 
one  on  each  side.  This  was  probably  the  entrance  used  by  Christians 
and  Muslims  alike  (see  p.  313).  The  architrave  is  lavishly  enriched 
with  garlands  and  foliage.  On  the  upper  beam  of  the  gate  is  a  well- 
preserved  Greek  inscription:  'Thy  kingdom,  0  Christ,  is  an  ever- 
lasting kingdom,  and  thy  dominion  endureth  throughout  all  genera- 
tions' (  Psalm  clxv.  13,  the  words  '0  Christ'  being  an  interpolation  ). 

At  the  end  of  the  Bazaar  of  the  Joiners  we  turn  to  the  left  to 
inspect  the  BCib  Jeirun,  the  East  Gateway  of  the  Mosque.  It 
consists  of  three  different  portals.  The  central  portal  is  usually 
closed.  Of  its  two  old  bronze-plated  valves  that  to  the  right  is 
missing.  The  left  valve  is  embellished  with  Arabic  inscriptions  and 
two  bronze  vases  in  relief  (the  coat-of-arms  of  the  Mameluke  sul- 
tans). The  portal  is  enclosed  by  a  porch.  Here,  in  ancient  times, 
as  also  on  the  W.  side,  a  broad  colonnade  led  to  the  temple.  Some 
of  the  columns  are  still  visible  built  into  the  walls  of  the  houses. 
The  fountain  below  the  stair  dates  from  1020. 

Passing  the  fountain,  entering  the  next  lane  to  the  left,  and 
keeping  as  close  to  the  mosque  as  possible,  we  pass  on  the  left  the 
Medreset  es-Someisatiyeh,  and  then  the  '0  marly  eh,  founded  by  'Omar 
ibn  'Abd  el -'Aziz  (d.  720),  both  being  schools  attached  to  the 
mosque.  Between  these  a  lane  leads  to  the  Bab  el'Amdra,  the  eastern- 
most of  the  two  Northern  Portals  of  thb  Mosqub.  On  the  other 
(1.)  side  of  the  lane,  in  a  court,  is  the  Tomb  of  Saladin  (Kabr  Sald- 
heddln;  Pi.  II,  E4;  p.  298),  a  handsome  mausoleum  with  beautiful 
fayence  work  (adm.  6  pi.).  A  glass-case  at  the  head  of  the  sar- 
cophagus contains  the  wreath  of  flowers  which  the  Emperor  Wil- 
liam II.  laid  here  in  1898.  The  road  ends  at  the  street  leading 
to  the  Suk  el-Hamidiyeh  (p.  305).  On  the  right,  at  the  corner,  is 
the  medreseh  of  Mellk  ez-Zdhir  Beibars  (PI.  II;  D,  E,  4),  with  walls 
of  rarefully  polished  reddish  sandstone,  built,  according  to  the 
inscription,  in  1279.  The  portal  with  its  stalactites  is  as  high  as 
the  building  itself.  The  beautiful  mosaic  pictures  on  the  walls 
in  the  interior  are  worthy  of  attention.  In  one  of  the  two  simple 
catafalques  reposes  Beibars ,   whose  name  and  exploits  are  still 


■  - 

■ 


I 


316 


Route  38. 


JEBEL  KASYUN. 


5.  BxcMrsi07i'« 


popular  with  the  Muslims  (comp.  p.  lxxxiv).  His  son  rests  in  the 
other.  Over  the  catafalques  are  the  hookcases  containing  the  library 
which  Midhat  Pasha  collected  here.  The  beautiful  manuscripts  are 
readily  exhibited  to  visitors.  Opposite  is  a  mosque  which  the  son 
of  Beibars  erected.  Both  buildings,  including  their  details,  are  flue 
specimens  of  Arabian  architecture.  Turning  to  tho  8.  from  this 
point,  we  pass  several  bakeries  and  soon  reach  the  Suk  el-Hamtdtyeh, 
at  the  beginning  of  the  Booksellers'  Bazaar. 


5.  Excursions  from  Damascus. 

To  Es-Salehiykh  and  to  the  Jebel  Kasyun  ([KJeisun  in  vulga 
dialect").    As  far  as  (ca.  25  niin. )  Es-Salehiyeh  there  is  a  carriage 
road,  flanked  with  numerous  villas.    The  road  leads  past  the  hotels 
fright)  and  the  Military  Hospital  (left;  PI.  I,  0  3,1,  and  after  '/4  hr. 
crosses  the  Tora,  a  stream  conducted  out  of  the  Barada  from  a  point 
a  good  deal  higher  up. 

The  village  of  Es-Salehiyeh  (PI.  I;  B-D,  1,  2),  with  about 
10,000  inhab.,  is  situated  on  the  Jezld,  another  arm  of  the  Barada, 
and  forms  a  kind  of  suburb  of  Damascus.  The  Damascenes  fre- 
quently visit  it,  especially  in  December,  when  tho  habb  el-ds, 
myrtle -berries  are  ripe.  The  village  received  its  name  in  the 
5th  cent,  of  the  Llegira  ,  when  it  was  peopled  by  Turcomans,  to 
whom  a  colony  of  Kurds  was  afterwards  added.  Recently  the  popu- 
lation has  been  increased  by  a  number  of  Muslim  refugees  from 
Crete.  The  interesting  old  buildings  of  the  schools  and  mosques 
are  now  almost  all  in  a  ruinous  condition.  Some  of  them  are  still 
adorned  with  rich  stalactite  vaulting,  while  their  walls  and  domes 
are  enriched  with  arabesques.  The  finest  mosque  is  that  which, 
was  erected  over  (or  beside)  the  tomb  of  Muhieddin  ibn  el-'Arabi 
(d.  1240),  philosopher,  poet,  and  mystic,  which  is  frequented  by] 
pilgrims.  rAbd  el-Kader  (p.  299)  is  also  buried  here.  It  is  now 
easy  to  obtain  admission  to  the  mosque.  Many  wealthy  people  were] 
formerly  interred  near  Salehiyeh,  and  a  number  of  handsome  tombs] 
are  still  scattered  along  the  hill. 

At  the  back  of  the  village  rises  the  barren  Jebel  Kasyun  (3715  ft.jj 
PI.  I,  A,  B,  1),  which  is  ascended  from  the  W.  end  of  the  village] 
through  a  new  quarter  erected  for  the  Cretan  refugees.  About  25  minj 
below  the  summit  we  pass  a  platform  constructed  for  the  Emperoa 
"William  II.,  which  affords  a  good  view.  A  still  finer  *View  is  ob-4 
tained  at  a  small  open  building  called  the  Kubbet  en-Nasr  (Domd 
of  Victory),  which  is  close  to  the  summit  itself.  The  city  lied 
stretched  out  at  our  feet,  encircled  by  its  broad  green  belt  of  teeming 
vegetation.  To  the  W.  and  N.  extend  the  barren  heights  of  Anti- 
Libanus;  in  the  distant  E.  appear  the  Tulul  es-Safa.  (p.  317);  to 
the  S.,  in  the  extreme  distance,  are  visible  the  mountains  of  thaj 
Hauran,  and  nearer  are  the  Jebel  el-Manif  and  Jebel  el-Aswad. 


o 
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m-'Atebeh 


a  *  primed  try  WtigjKT  *  l)rte».  Leipiig. 


from  Damascus. 


JOBAR. 


38.  Route. 


317 


The  Jebel  Kasyun  is  held  sacred  by  the  Muslims,  as  Abraham  is  said 
here  lo  have  learned  the  doctrine  of  the  unity  of  God  (p.  lxvii).  Adam 
Is  believed  once  to  have  lived  here,  and  Mohammed  is  said  to  have  visited 
the  place,  but  not  to  have  entered  Damascus.  The  hill  consists  partly 
of  reddish  rock,  and  its  colour  gave  rise  to  the  legend  that  it  contained 
a  blood-stained  cavern  in  which  the  dead  body  of  the  murdered  Abel 
(Habil)  was  hidden.  On  the  N.  slope  stands  the  Kubbet  el-Arba'in,  where 
forty  Muslim  prophets  are  said  to  be  buried.  Numerous  fossils  are  found 
upon  the  mountain. 

From  the  Jebel  Kasyun  a  path  descends  on  the  W.  side  to  Dum- 
mar  (xl-i  hi.),  which  is  7  M.  from  Damascus  by  road.  The  floor  of 
the  valley  adjoining  the  stream  is  wooded,  magnificent  walnut-trees 
being  particularly  noticeable,  and  the  vegetation  is  luxuriant.  The 
so-called  Merj  is  the  favourite  exercising  ground  for  horsemen,' and 
is  frequented  by  walkers  also,  who  are  sometimes  seen  sitting  on 
the  banks  of  the  stream  smoking  water-pipes.  Horses  are  also  fre- 
quently ridden  to  water  here.  At  the  so-called  Tekkiyeh.  (PI.  I ;  C,  4) 
the  meadow  is  broadest.  The  Tekkiyeh  was  erected  by  Sultan 
Selim  in-  1516,  chiefly  for  the  entertainment  of  pilgrims.  It  is 
entered  from  the  E.  "We  pass  several  poor  houses  occupied  by  der- 
vishes. The  court  contains  two  large  reservoirs  and  is  enclosed  by  a 
colonnade,  beyond  which  are  dome-covered  chambers  roofed  with 
lead.  The  mosque  on  the  S.  side  has  a  marble  colonnade  in  front 
of  it,  and  is  covered  with  a  large  dome.  On  each  side  rises  a  slender 
minaret.    The  whole  edifice  is  falling  to  decay. 

To  Jobar  (1/2  lir.).  From  the  Gate  of  St.  Thomas  (p.  812)  we  go  a  little 
way  along  the  Aleppo  road.  In  2  min.  a  road  diverges  to  the  right,  passing 
by  a  favourite  resort  of  the  Damascenes.  After  2  min.  more  we  follow  a 
road  to  the  N.  to  (25  min.)  Jobar,  a  large  village  occupied  by  Muslims 
and  a  few  Jews.  The  old  Synagogue  (KenUeh),  in  the  S.E.  part  of  the 
village,  is  visited  on  the  occasion  of  festivals  by  many  of  the  Jews  of 
Damascus.  Near  its  entrance  is  a  space  enclosed  by  railings,  in  which 
Elijah  is  said  to  have  anointed  Elisha  to  be  a  prophet  and  Hazael  to  be 
king  of  Syria.  At  the  back  is  a  kind  of  chamber  where  Elijah  is  said  to 
have  been  fed  by  ravens  (1  Kings  xvii.  6).  There  is,  however,  no  mention 
of  this  tradition  in  the  work  of  Rabbi  Tudela,  who  collected  all  the  legends 
of  this  kind  which  existed  in  the  12th  century.  A  cabinet  here  contains 
some  scrolls  of  the  Torah,  of  considerable  antiquity. 

To  the  Meadow  Lakes  (D/2  day  5  guide  necessary).  This  excursion 
affords  a  glance  at  the  famous  Ager  Damascenus,  or  country  around  Damascus, 
where  a  soil  of  extreme  fertility  is  cultivated  by  a  peasantry  settled  here 
from  a  very  early  period,  and  where  many  remains  of  handsome  ancient 
edifices  are  still  to  be  found.  —  We  ride  down  the  N.  side  of  the  Barada., 
and  in  12'/»  hrs.  reach  the  round  hill  of  Tell  es-Sdlehtyeh.  In  21/2  hrs.  more 
we  come  to  the  village  of  'Ateibeh,  situated  on  a  kind  of  promontory  in 
the  Itahrat  el-' Ateibeh,  the  largest  of  the  Meadow  Lakes.  These  lakes  are 
of  considerable  size  in  spring  and  summer  and  are  then  visited  by  numerous 
Jieiluins.  In  autumn  and  winter,  however,  they  are  nothing  but  marshes. 
Beyond  the  marshes  are  seen  the  Tttllll  es-Safd,  a  long  range  of  extinct 
craters.  To  the  E.  of  the  lakes  lies  a  tract 'called  Derb  el-Ghazawdt  (road 
of  tin'  1  ihbinies)  on  account  of  its  insecurity,  where  the  three  interesting 
ruins  of  Ed-JJiy&ra  are  situated.  From  'Ateibeh  we  may  reach  the  mouth 
of  the  Uaradfi.  towards  the  S.  in  40  min.,  and  Harr&n  el-'Awdmtd,  where 
there  are  three  Ionic  columns  of  an  ancient  temple,  in  1/2  br.  more. 
From  this  point  Damascus  may  be  regained  in  about  4  hrs. 


ISaepekeu's  Palestine  and  Syria.    4th  Edit. 


20 


318 


39.  From  Damascus  to  Bacalbek. 
a.  Railway  via  Reyak. 


•  p;  "  64V2M.  From  Damascus  (Beramkch  Station)  to  Reydk,  481/2  M.,  in  ca. 
3  hrs.  (time-table,  see  p.  291).  From  Beyak  to  Ba'albek,'  16  M.,  one  train 
daily  (starting  at  12.50  p.m.)  in  3/4  hr.  (fare's  15  pi.  30  pa.,  11  pi.;  rate  of 
exchange,  see  p.  275). 

From  Damascus  to  (48 V2  M.)  Reyak,  see  pp.  294-292.  Carriages 
are  changed  here  (pp.  292, 293),  and  a  delay  of  ahout  1  hr.  takes  place. 

The  railway  traverses  the  well-cultivated  hut  thinly -peopled 
plain  of  Coelesyria  (El-Bikd',  p.  292),  keeping  near  its  E.  margin. 
On  the  W.  margin  of  the  plain  we  see  the  following  villages, 
reckoning  from  Mu'allaka-Zahleh  (p.  292)  towards  the  N.:  Kerak 
Nuh,  where  the  tomh  of  the  'Prophet  Noah'  (100  feet  in  length !)  is 
shewn;  Ablah,  a  small  Christian  village  in  a  depression;  then 
Temnin  et-Tdhtd  ('the  lower')  and  Temriin  el-Fokd  ('the  upper'), 
near  which  are  200  tomh-chamhers  with  entrances  in  the  Phoenician 
style.  On  the  right,  at  the  foot  of  the  mountain,  are  Zerin9  Tareiya, 
and  Berttdn  (prohably  the  ancient  Beroihai;  2  Sam.  viii.  8,  Ezek. 
xlvii.  16).  —  8  M.  (from  Reyak)  Talia.  The  village  lies  some 
distance  to  the  E.  of  the  station.  The  line  now  approaches  the  W. 
side  of  the  plain,  passes  near  Talliyeh  (left),  and  crosses  the  old 
road.  Adjacent,  to  the  left,  lies  Mejdelun.  Beyond  (14^2  M.)  Btiris, 
to  the  right,  lies  Kubbet  Duris,  a  modern  weli  built  of  ancient 
materials,  with  8  beautiful  granite  columns,  over  which  an  archi- 
trave has  ignorantly  been  placed.  More  in  the  background  are  seen 
the  stone-quarries  of  Ba'albek,  and  the  town  itself,  with  the  great 
columns  of  the  temple  of  Jupiter. 

16M.  Ba'albek,  see  p.  320.  The  railway-station  lies  3/4  M.  to  the 
S.W.  of  the  town.  —  Journey  thence  to  Horns  and  Hamd,  see  p.  365. 

b.  Bridle  Route  via  Ez-Zebedani. 

13J/4  hrs.  To  Ez-Zebeddni  (nightquarters)  63/4  hrs.,  thence  to  Ba'albek] 
6'/2hrs.  Tents  necessary  if  ladies  are  of  the  party  (comp.  p.  xviii).  Thos 
who  travel  with  tents  may  spend  a  night  at  'Ain  Fijeh  and  another  in  8ar-\ 
ohdyd,  and  may  take  the  route  to  rAin  Fijeh  by  E$-Sdlehiyeh  and  the  J  del 
Kasyttn  (comp.  p.  316).  —  This  tour  is  usually  combined  with  R.  40.  Trav-] 
ellers  may  also  go  by  railway  to  Ez-Zebedani  or  Yahfufeh ,  sending  thej 
horses  in  advance  the  day  before,  and  ride  thence  in  one  day  to  Ba'albek. j 

Damaicus,  sec  p.  294.  We  follow  the  diligence-road  to  (1  hr.)  Dummar  \ 
(p.  294).  Here  we  leave  the  road  and  turn  to  the  right,  past  some  white 
limestone  hills  (3/4  hr.).  We  ride  for  an  hour  across  the  barren  plain  of] 
Es-Sahra,  descend  a  small  cultivated  valley  to  the  left,  pass  El-Ashrafiyeh,  i 
and  reach  (25  min.)  Bessima,  in  the  valley  of  the  Barada..  A  curious! 
mcky  passage  which  connects  Bessimawith  El-Ashrafiyeh  was  probably  oncej 
a  channel  to  conduct  the  pure  water  of  the  Fijeh  springs  to  Damascus.] 
It  is  on  an  average  2  ft.  8  in.  wide,  but  varies  in  height,  and  the  roof  has] 
been  broken  away  at  places;  at  other  places  ihere  are  open  galleries] 
affording  an  outlook  towards  the  valley.  —  Ascending  the  narrow  valley,] 
we  reach  (V2  hr.)  the  village  and  (5  min.  later)  the  spring  of  rAin  Fijeh 
(p.  294).  —  The  path  continues  to  ascend  the  valley,  following  the  wind-] 
ings  of  the  brook  between  barren  cliffs,  800-1000  ft.  high.  We  pass  (25  min.)] 
Deir  Mukurrin  and  (}/thr.)Ka/r  ez-Zeit  (oil-village).  Wc  next  perceive  (lOmin.)j 


HELBUN. 


39.  Route.    319 


Deir  Kdnfin  opposite  to  us,  on  the  right  bank  of  (he  river,  pass  O/4  hr.) 
El-Hutciniyeh,  and  reach  (•/«  hr.)  Kafr  el-'Awdmid,  on  an  eminence  near 
which  are  the  ruins  of  a  small  Greek  temple,  consisting  of  fragments  of 
columns,  of  capitals,  and  of  a  pediment.  Beyond  this  we  cross  the  river  by 
a  bridge.  On  the  right,  below  us,  after  25  min.,  we  perceive  Suk  Wadi 
Barada  (p.  293).  About  10  min.  above  the  village  we  cross  the  stream  by 
another  bridge  and  follow  the  left  bank.  After  20  min.  the  valley  ex- 
pands into  a  small  plain,  where  the  brook  forms  a  waterfall.  A  little 
above  the  fall  are  remains  of  an  old  bridge.  The  stream  is  here  augmented 
by  the  discharge  of  the  Wddi  el-Karn,  coming  from  the  S.W.  Ascending, 
we  ride  round  the  hill  to  the  right  and  suddenly  come  upon  the  Plain  of 
Ez-Zebeddni.  Traversing  the  plain,  in  2  hrs.  20  min.  more  we  reach  the 
village  of  Ez-Zebedani  (p.  293). 

Thence  the  road  ascends  the  valley.  The  spring  of  'Ain  ffawar,  with 
the  village  of  that  name,  remains  on  the  right  (1  hr.);  we  then  cross  the 
watershed  and  arrive  (I  hr.)  at  the  village  of  Sarghdyd  (p.  293).  On  the 
spur  of  the  hill  to  the  E.  some  rock-tombs  are  visible.  The  tombs  con- 
tain six  arches  with  niches  for  the  sarcophagi.  Near  the  tombs  is  a 
marble  column  with  a  Greek  dedication.  Beyond  the  rock  are  slight 
remains  of  a  village.     Near  a  large  oak  are  several  other  rock-tombs. 

After  28  min.  we  descend  from  Sarghaya  to  the  Wddi  Yahf&feh,  where 
the  brook  is  crossed  by  a  bridge  called  Jisr  er-Rummdneh.  '  We  descend 
the  valley  on  its  right  bank,  after  16  min.  cross  the  brook  again,  and  after 
14  min.  cross  a  third  bridge.  The  village  of  Yahfufeh  (p.  293)  lies  a  little 
lower  down,  on  the  left.  We  now  ascend  the  hill,  disregarding  a  path  to 
the  left.  On  the  top  of  the  hill  (23  min.)  is  revealed  a  beautiful  view  of  Le- 
banon and  the  plain  of  El-Bika'  (p.  292).  A  village,  En-Nebi  Shit  (SethV), 
with  the  conspicuous  Makam  o'f  the  Prophet,  remains  to  the  left.  The  route 
pursues  a  straight  direction,  passing  many  cross-paths.  After  ltyi  hr.  we 
see  the  village  of  Khortdneh  below  us  on  the  left,  and  we  ride  through  a 
deep  valley.  After  1  hr.  we  reach  the  deep  Wddi  et-Tayyibeh.  in  35  min. 
more  avoid  a  path  to  the  right,  and  reach  (10  min.)  the  village  of  'Ain  Berddi, 
beyond  which  (4  min.)  we  soon  perceive  the  gardens  of  Ba'albek  (p.  320) 
and  its  acropolis.  In  11  min.  we  reach  a  broad  road  coming  from  the 
left,  and  in  7  min.  more  the  first  houses  of  the  village. 

Fkom  Damascus  to  Ez-Zebedani  via  Helbun,  Tl/2  hrs.  Starting  from 
the  Bdb  7'timd  (p.  312),  we  follow  the  Aleppo  road  and  diverge  from  it  to 
the  left  after  11  minutes.  In  40  min.  we  reach  the  village  of  Berzeh.  A 
Muslim  legend  makes  this  the  birthplace  of  Abraham,  or  at  least  the  point 
to  which  he  and  his  servants  penetrated  in  this  direction  (Gen.  xiv.  15). 
Here  we  turn  to  the  left,  thread  a  long  and  narrow  gorge,  and  P/a  hr.) 
cross  a  bridge.  We  see  the  village  of  Ma'rabd  on  the  hill  to  the  left. 
Ascending  the  course  of  the  principal  stream,  we  reach  'Ain  es-Sdhib 
(2t/4  hrs.  from  Berzeh)  and  (40  min.)  HelbUn. 

Helbun.  —  Ezekiel  (xxvii.  18)  mentions  Helbon  as  the  place  whence 
Tyre  obtained  her  wine  through  the  agency  of  the  merchants  of  Damascus. 
Its  wine  is  also  mentioned  in  Assyrian  chronicles  of  the  time  of  Nebu- 
chadnezzar, and  this  appears  to  agree  with  the  statement  of  Strabo  (and 
Athcnams)  that  the  kings  of  Persia  imported  their  wine  from  Chalybon. 
The  country  is  admirably  adapted  for  the  culture  of  the  vine,  the  valley 
being  bounded  by  vast  slopes  of  fine  chalky  rubble.  Some  of  these  are 
still  covered  with  vines,  but  the  grapes  are  now  all  dried  to  form  raisins. 
Fragments  of  columns  and  ancient  hewn  stones  are  built  into  the  houses 
and  garden-walls.  The  mosque  in  the  middle  of  the  village  is  recognizable 
by  its  old  tower;  in  front  of  it  is  a  kind  of  colonnade,  with  columns 
composed  of  numerous  fragments  of  stone.  A  copious  spring  wells  forth 
from  below  the  mosque. 

Beyond  Helbun  the  path  ascends  the  left  side  of  the  valley.  After 
22  min.  we  descend  to  the  abundant  spring  'Ain  Fakhtikh  (4  min.).  Our 
route  follows  the  main  valley,  traverses  plantations  of  sumach  (Rhus 
coriaria),  and  reaches  (26  min.)  a  bifurcation,  where  we  ascend  to  the 
right.    After  43  min.  we  obtain  a  survey  of  the  plain  of  Damascus,  and  in 

20* 


320   «ou<e  39. 


BA'ALBEK. 


His  tori. 


17  min.  descend  into  a  valley,  the  bottom  of  which  is  cultivated  (26  min.). 
The  road  again  ascends  to  the  right  and  reaches  (24  min.)  a  small  table- 
land. After  17  min.  we  descend  to  the  village  of  Bltiddn  (4845  ft.  above 
the  sea-level),  whence  we  reach  Ez-Zebed&ni  (p.  293)  in  40  minutes.  Thenco 
to  Ba'albek,  see  p.  319. 

Baalbek. 

The  Railway  Station  lies  10  min.  to  the  W.  of  the  town.  Carriage 
I-I1/2  fr. 

Hotel  Allkmand  (landlord,  Zapf,  a  German);  Grand  Hotel  de  Pal- 
mire  (landlord,  Mimikaki,  a  Greek) ;  Grand  New  Hotel  (landlord,  Antoine 
Arbeed);  Hot.  Victoria  (landlord,  Skander  Kurbasli).  Pension  at  these, 
without  wine,  8-15  fr. ;  bargaining  advisable. 

Post  &  Telegraph  Office  (Turkish). 

Ba'albek  (3840  ft.  above  the  sea),  the  Greek  Ileliopolis,  lies  on 
the  E.  side  of  the  valley  of  the  Lttani,  which  is  here  very  fertile.  Npt 
far  distant  is  the  v/atershed  between  this  river  and  the  El-'Asi 
(Orontes).  The  town,  which  is  the  seat  of  a  Kaimmakam,  contains 
about  5200inhab.  (2/5  Mohammedans,  2/5  Metawileh,  */s  Christians), 
a  small  garrison,  and  '2  Greek  and  2  Maronite  monasteries.  The 
British  Syrian  Mission  has  a  girls'  school,  in  a  handsome  building; 
the  Sisters  of  St.  Joseph  also  have  a  girls'  school. 

The  origin  of  the  town  is  unknown.    On  ancient  Assyrian  and  Egyptian 
inscriptions  we  find  the  name  of  Balbiki,  which  proves  the  town  to  have 
been  a  centre  of  the  worship  of  Ba'al.    The  Greeks,  who  identified  Ka'al 
with  the  sun-god  Helios,  translated  Balbiki  into  Seliopolii,  and  the  Romans, 
in  their  turn,  spoke  of  Jupiter  of  Ileliopolis.    This  god  was  represented  (see 
p.  321)  as  a  beardless  young  man  clad  in  a  kind  of  cuirass,  accompanied  by 
two  bulls,  and  holding  a  whip  in  his  right  hand,  and  a  thunderbolt  and  ears 
of  corn  in  his  left.     Mercury    and  Venus  were   likewise  worshipped  here. 
Augustus  is  said  to  have  brought  Roman  colonists  into  the  town,  and  coins 
of  Heliopolis   show   that   the  town  was  a  Roman  colony  as   early  as   the 
1st  century.    Antoninus  Pius  (138-161  A.D.)  began  the  building  of  a  magnifi- 
cent temple  to  the  three  divinities  of  the  town,  and  the  work  was  carried 
on  by  his  successors   and   finished  by  Caracalla  (211-217).    A  temple  was 
also   erected  to  Bacchus.    The  worship  of  Venus  was  suppressed  by  Con- 
stantine   the   Great  (324-337).     Theodosius  (379-395)   destroyed    the   great, 
temple,  which  had  already  been  much  damaged  by  earthquakes,  and  built 
a  church  opposite  the  facade  of  the  old  building.    Both  before  and  after] 
Constantine  the  Christians  were  persecuted  at  Heliopolis.   At  a  later  period! 
bishops  of  Heliopolis  are  mentioned.    In  634  A.D.  Ba'albek  was  conquered 
by  Abu  'Ubeida  (p.  298)  on  his  march  from  Damascus  to  Horns.    The  Arabs  ' 
converted  the  acropolis,  the  erection  of  which  they  attributed  to  Solomon, 
into  a  citadel   at   an  early  period.     As  a  fortress  it  was  important  in  the] 
wars  of  the  middle  ages.     In  1139  the  town  and  castle  were  captured   l>y 
Emir  Zenghi,   and   in  1175  the  district  of  Ba'albek  came   into   possessii 
of  Saladin.    In  1260  Ba'albek  was  destroyed  by  Hulagil  (p.  lxxxiv),   andj 
it  was  afterwards  conquered  by  Timur. 

The  ancient  *  Acropolis  of  Ba'albek,  surrounded  by  gardens,  and] 
running  from  W.  to  E.,  rises  to  the  W.  of  the  little  town.  It  is] 
covered  by  the  Te.mains  of  two  temples  of  the  2nd  cent.  A.D.,  which 
were  erected  upon  massive  substructions  and  were  preceded  by  courts. 

Erection  of  the  temples,  see  above.  Coins  of  Septiinius  Severus  (193-211) ; 
show  the  outlines  of  these  two  temples,  as  do  also  coins  of  later  date; 
but  it  is  unknown  whether  the  larger  was  ever  finished.  From  the  votive 
inscriptions  of  Antoninus  Pius  it  would  appear  that  the  larger  temple  was 
dedicated  to  all  the  gods  of  Heliopolis;  the  smaller  was  the  temple  of 
Bacchus.     Both  temples  most  probably  date  from  the  stune  period.     The 


■■■■MMMi 


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Acropolis. 


BAALBEK. 


39.  Route.    321 


jArabs  convened  them  into  a  fortress.  They  afterwards  fell  into  ruin. 
;In  the  middle  of  the  16th  cent,  the  ruins  of  Ba'albek  were  rediscovered 
by  Europeans,  but  they  have  again  suffered  severely  from  earthquakes, 
particularly  from  that  of  1759.  Various  interesting  details  were  brought 
to  light  by  tiio.  German  excavations  of  1900-1904,  while  portions  in  danger 
of  falling  were  restored. 

The  Entrance  (tickets  1  mej.  each)  is  at  the  E.  side.  The  broad 
flight  of  steps  which  formerly  here  led  up  to  the  Propylaja  is  now 
Tepresented  by  a  narrow  modern  staircase,  erected  by  the  German 
Emperor  among  the  luxuriant  fruit-trees. 

The  Propylaea  stand  about  19  ft.  above  the  adjoining  orchard, 
on  a  platform  supported  by  a  large  vault.  They  consist  of  a  portico, 
ca.  66  yds.  in  length  and  13  yds.  in  width,  flanked  by  two  towers. 
In  front  the  portico  had  twelve  columns ,  the  bases  of  which  are 
still  preserved.  Three  of  these  bear  Latin  inscriptions  to  the  effect 
that  the  temple  was  erected  under  Antoninus  Pius  and  Caracalla, 
and  was  dedicated  to  the  'great  gods'  of  Heliopolis.  The  towers  are 
enriched  externally  by  a  moulding  running  round  them  at  the  same 
height  as  that  of  the  portico.  The  lower  story  of  the  N.  tower  is 
alone  ancient,  the  upper  story  was  added  by  the  Arabs.  Doors  led 
from  the  vestibule  into  a  chamber  in  the  interior  of  the  tower. 
The  back-wall  of  this  chamber  was  embellished  with  niches  flanked 
by  Corinthian  columns,  a  style  of  decoration  which  constantly  recurs 
in  the  building,  especially  in  the  exedrae  of  the  Court  of  the  Altar 
(see  below). 

A  lofty  doorway  and  two  smaller  side-doors  lead  from  the  Pro- 
pylaea into  the  hexagonal  Forecourt,  which  is  about  65  yds.  deep, 
and  from  angle  to  angle  about  83  yds.  wide.  It  was  surrounded  with 
colonnades,  the  floors  of  which  were  paved*  with  simple  mosaic.  On 
four  sides,  there  were  originally  square  exedrae,  or  lateral  chambers, 
in  front  of  each  of  which  stood  four  columns.  Between  these  exedrae 
lay  smaller  chambers  of  irregular  shape.  The  Arabs  converted 
these  exedrae,  with  the  exception  of  that  to  the  N.W.,  into  forti- 
fications ,  and.  used  the  windows  as  loopholes  for  their  guns.  —  In 
the  space  adjoining  the  door  leading  to  the  Court  of  the  Altar,  we 
observe  a  representation  of  Jupiter  Heliopolitanus,  taken  from  a 
small  round  temple  to  the  E.  of  Ba'albek  (comp.  p.  320). 

A  threefold  portal  led  from  the  hexagon  into  the  large  and 
handsome  Court  of  the  Altar.  The  smaller  N.  portal  only  is  pre- 
served (on  the  right).  This  court,  which  is  about  147  yds.  long 
from  E.  to  W.,  and  123  yds.  wide,  was  also  surrounded  on  three 
sides  by  colonnades  of  polished  granite  columns.  Of  these  columns 
there 'were  once  eighty-four.  Bases  of  columns,  Corinthian  capitals, 
fragments  of  the  entablature ,  and  a  monolithic  shaft  25^  ft.  in 
length  still  lie  among  the  ruins.  On  both  sides  of  the  court  and 
at  the  E.  end  are  exedrae;  three  of  those  on  each  side  are  square 
and  two  semicircular,  while  at  the  E.  end  there  is  a  square  chamber 

each  side  of  the  portal.    The  mural  decoration  is  very  elaborate, 


'mftwafliji  l*^*1  ^H 


^H  I  ^H 


■ 


I 


ifoute  39. 


BA'ALBEK. 


Acropolis. 


especially  in  the  semicircular  exedrae,  where  the  wall-surfaces  are 
articulated  by  Corinthian  pilasters  with  rich  capitals.  The  lower 
parts  of  the  fields  thus  formed  contain  large  niches  for  statues, 
sometimes  in  the  form  of  a  shell,  sometimes  semicircular  with  a 
curved  entablature.  Above  each  niche  is  an  aedicula  with  a  pointed 
pediment,  projecting  from  the  flat  wall  and  also  used  as  the  support 
of  a  statue.  The  narrow  wall-spaces  between  the  exedrae  are  also 
adorned  with  niches  for  statues  ,  above  each  of  which  is  an  aedicula 
between  two  Corinthian  corner- pillars.  The  decoration  of  the 
square  exedrae  is  somewhat  less  elaborate.  The  place  of  the  lower 
niches  is  taken  by  a  row  of  acdiculae  with  a  straight  entablature ; 
the  pediments  of  the  upper  acdiculae  are  alternately  pointed  and 
round.  There  are  no  pilasters  between  them.  The  exedrae  were 
all  covered,  and  in  some  of  them  interesting  remains  of  the  mould- 
ing of  the  ceiling  are  extant.  The  exedrae  were  intended  for  the  use 
of  visitors,  who  (e.  </.)  took  shelter  here  in  bad  weather. 

Near  the  middle  of  the  court,  in  front  of  the  large  flight  of  steps 
ascending  on  the  W.  to  the  great  temple,  stood  the  colossal  Altar, 
one  half  of  which,  with  the  steps  which  the  priests  ascended  at  the 
time  of  sacrifice,  has  been  brought  to  light  by  the  excavations.  The 
other  half  was  destroyed  during  the  erection  of  the  basilica  (see 
below).  To  the  N.  and  S.  of  this  were  two  oblong  basins  for  lustra- 
tion, part  of  the  kerb  of  which,  with  beautiful  reliefs  of  festoons, 
heads,  sea-lions,  and  the  like,  has  been  preserved.  —  Immediately- 
above  the  altar,  a  Basilica  was, built  at  a  later  date  by  Theodosius 
(p.  320),  and  remains  of  it  are  plainly  visible.  This  church  was 
constructed  originally  with  its  front  toward  the  W.,  but  at  some 
later  alteration  it  was  made  to  face  the  E.  On  the  W.  it  is  ter- 
minated by  a  thick  rectilineal  wall ;  thus  the  three  apses  were  not 
visible  from  without.  They  stand  on  the  exact  spot  formerly  occu«j 
pied  by  the  temple  steps,  which  were  removed  to  make  room  ton 
the  new  building.  To  the  S.  of  the  basilica  lay  a  Basin  surrounded] 
with  vaulted  corridors ,  probably  belonging  to  a  bath  connected] 
with  the  church.  This  was  built  over  the  ancient  basin  of  lustrationJ 
which  has  in  consequence  been  partly  destroyed. 

The  Great  Temple  itself  was  consecrated  to  all  the  gods  ot 
Heliopolis ,  or ,  according  to  a  later  statement ,  to  Jupiter  (see 
p.  320);  it  was  also  known  as  the  Trilithon  Temple  (see  p.  325). 
Few  remains  of  it  are  now  extant.  The  six  huge  *  Columns  of  tha 
Peristyle,  over  60  ft.  in  height,  are  visible  to  the  traveller  long  beford 
he  reaches  Ba'albek.  The  yellowish  stone  of  which  they  are  comJ 
posed  looks  particularly  handsome  by  evening-light.  The  columnsJ 
which  do  not  taper,  have  Corinthian  capitals.  The  architrave  is  in 
three  sections.  Above  it  is  a  frieze  with  a  close  row  of  corbelsj 
which  appear  to  have  borne  small  lions.  Still  higher  is  tooth  mouldJ 
ing,  then  Corinthian  corbels,  and  still  higher  a  cornice,  in  all  17  ftj 
high.    The  smooth  shafts  are  7!/2  ft.  in  diameter,  and  consist  of 


Acropolis. 


BA'ALBEK. 


39.  Boute.    323 


three  pieces  held  together  with  iron.  The  Turks  have  barbarously 
made  incisions  in  the  columns  at  several  places,  in  order  to  remove 
the  iron  cramps.  The  peristyle,  of  which  these  six  columns  formed 
part,  had  19  columns  on  each  side  and  10  at  each  end,  and  many 
of  these  now  lie  scattered  around.  —  For  the  Substructions  of  the 
temple,  see  p.  324. 

Proceeding  towards  the  S.E.  from  the  six  columns,  we  reach 
the  *Temple  of  Bacchus,  the  smaller  of  the  two.  This  temple  is  one 
of  the  best-preserved  and  most  beautiful  antique  buildings  in  Syria. 
It  stands  on  a  stylobate  of  its  own,  lower  than  the  larger  temple, 
and  quite  unconnected  with  it.  It  has  no  court,  but  was  approached 
from  the  E.  by  a  stair,  now  partly  hidden  by  the  Arab  wall,  ascend- 
ing in  three  sections  direct  to  the  portal. 

The  Peristole,  partly  preserved,  had  fifteen  columns  on  each 
sidf ,  and  eight  at  the  W.  end.  The  columns  and  the  wall  of  the  cella 
are  10  ft.  apart.  The  columns,  including  the  Corinthian  capitals, 
are  52'/2  ft-  in  height,  and  bear  a  lofty  entablature  with  a  handsome 
double  frieze.  The  entablature  is  connected  with  the  cella  by  huge 
slabs  of  stone ,  which  form  a  very  elaborately  executed  coffered 
ceiling,  consisting  of  hexagons,  rhomboids,  and  triangles  with  cen- 
tral ornaments,  while  the  intervening  spaces  are  filled  with  busts 
of  emperors  and  gods  relieved  by  foliage,  which  have,  however,  been 
terribly  mutilated  by  Muslim  barbarism.  The  leaf-work  is  beauti- 
fully executed,  recalling  the  Byzantine  style  in  its  treatment.  Four 
connected  columns  are  preserved  on  the  S.  side,  but  of  the  others 
the  bases  only  are  left,  most  of  the  shafts  having  been  thrown  down 
from  the  platform.  Here,  too,  the  Turks  have  destroyed  the  shafts 
and  bases  of  the  columns,  in  order  to  extract  the  iron.  On  the  W. 
side  three  columns  are  still  upright,  and  connected  with  each  other ; 
of  the  others  fragments  alone  remain.  Huge  masses  of  the  coffered 
ceiling  have  fallen  in,  one  of  the  finest  fragments  being  a  female 
bust  surrounded  by  five  other  busts.  The  peristyle  on  the  N.  side 
is  almost  entirely  preserved.  Its  ceiling  consists  of  thirteen  more 
or  less  damaged  sections  with  fine  busts. 

The  flight  of  steps  at  the  E.  end  (see  above)  leads  to  a  Vestibule. 
In  front  is  a  row  of  8  columns  with  smooth  shafts ,  behind  which 
is  a  second  row  of  6  fluted  columns,  flanked  by  two  of  the  smooth 
columns  of  the  peristyle.  This  second  row,  with  the  projecting 
walls  of  the  cella  (antse),  before  each  of  which  stood  another  fluted 
column,  formed  the  actual  vestibule.  —  Traversing  the  portico,  we 
come  to  the  very  elaborately  executed  *Portal  of  the  temple,  the 
gem  of  the  structure.  The  door-posts  are  lavishly  enriched  with 
vines,  garlands,  and  other  symbols  of  Bacchus ;  to  the  left,  at  the 
base,  the  youthful  god  is  represented  suckled  by  a  nymph,  while 
above  are  Pan,  satyrs,  and  bacchantes.  The  lintel  consists  of 
three  stones.  On  its  lower  side  is  the  figure  of  an  eagle,  holding 
in  its  claws  the  caduceus   and   in  its  beak   long   garlands,  the 


____■ 


324   Bowie  39. 


BA'ALBEK. 


Acropolis 


ends  of  which  are  held  hy  genii.  On  both  sides  of  the  main 
portal  are  two  small  doors.  Above  these,  round  the  wall,  runs  a 
frieze  which  was  obviously  intended  to  be  adorned  with  represen- 
tations in  relief;  only  a  small  part  of  this,  however,  to  the  right  of 
the  door  of  the  cella,  has  been  executed  (representation  of  a  sacrificial 
procession).  On  each  side  of  the  entrance  to  the  Cella  are  massive 
piers  containing  spiral  staircases.  The  entrance  to  one  of  these  is 
built  up,  but  in  the  other  pier  several  steps  have  been  preserved. 
The  cella  is  about  29  yds.  long  and  24>/2  yds.  broad.  The  N.  side 
is  less  injured  than  the  S.  The  system  of  mural  decoration  here  is 
that  characteristic  of  the  buildings  of  Ba'albek:  each  side-wall  of 
the  cella  is  divided  into  fields  by  six  fluted  semi-columns,  while 
the  walls  of  the  adyton,  to  the  W.,  are  each  articulated  by  three 
Corinthian  pilasters.  The  capitals  are  very  elaborate.  The  wall- 
faces  between  have  two  sediculae  (niches)  above  each  other,  the 
lower  with  a  semicircular  pediment,  the  upper  with  a  pointed 
pediment,  and  both  elaborately  decorated.  The  upper  niche  in  the 
middle  of  the  N.  wall  now  bears  a  tablet  commemorating  the  visit 
of  the  German  Emperor.  —  The  Adyton  at  the  "\V.  end  of  the  cella 
lay  at  some  height  above  its  floor.  A  staircase  in  three  sections  and 
occupying  the  whole  width  of  the  room  ascended  to  a  platform  or 
landing,  on  which  rise  two  half-columns.  Between  these,  a  second 
flight  of  seven  steps  led  to  the  adyton  proper.  The  wall  on  each 
side  of  the  staircase  is  adorned  with  reliefs  representing  Dionysos 
with  bacchantes  and  maenads.  The  base  for  the  statue  of  the  god 
is  still  recognizable.  Between  the  half-column  on  the  N.  and  the 
N.  wall  are  steps  descending  to  a  crypt  consisting  of  two  vaulted 
chambers;  a  corresponding  staircase  on  the  S.  side  ascends  to  the 
S.  aisle  of  the  adyton. 

Opposite  the  facade  of  this  temple  stands  a  later  Arabian 
building  with  a  stalactite  portal,  constructed  mostly  of  ancient 
materials. 

We  leave  the  Acropolis  by  the  vaulted  tunnel  on  the  S.    The. 
extensive  Soutekrains  or  Vaults  were  intended  to  raise  the  level  j 
of  the  temple.    Some  of  the  cellars  were  used  as  shops.    Another 
vaulted  gallery  on  the  N.  corresponds  to,  and  runs  parallel  with, 
that  on  the  S.     These  vaults  bear  the  Propyl&a  and  the  rows  of  I 
columns  as  well  as  the  walls  of  all  the  buildings  which  surround 
the  elevated   courts.     The  vaults  are  adjoined  by  two  low  side-  ] 
chambers  (exedrae),  one  under  the  N.E.  and  one  under  the  S.E.  I 
corner  of  the  altar- court  (PI.  b,  b);  both  of  these  were  accessible 
from  the  outside.    That  to  the  S.,  which  is  still  in  good  preserva- 
tion, is  elaborately  decorated;  the  spaces  between  the  Corinthian 
pilasters  are  filled  with  niches  in  the  shape  of  shells  surmounted  ] 
by  arched  or  pointed  gables  (resembling  those  in  the  exedree  of  ] 
the  altar-court,  seep.  322).    The  coffered  and  vaulted  ceiling  is 
adorned   with  fine  reliefs.     The  facade  of  the  chamber  had  four 


Wail. 


BA'ALBEK. 


39.  Route.    325 


Ionic  columns,  the  spaces  between  which  have  been  built  up  by 
the  Arabs. 

Enclosing  Wall.  The  Great  Temple  stood  upon  an  elevated 
Ixerbacb.  Its  stylobate  lay  44^2  ft.  above  the  level  of  the  plain,  and 
about  '23  ft.  above  that  of  the  altar-court.  For  the  construction  of 
this  terrace  large  Substructions  were  necessary.  To  the  N.W.  and 
S.  of  the  temple-foundations  and  at  a  distance  from  them  of  about 
33  ft.  ran  the  outer  enclosing  wall  of  the  terrace.  The  intervening 
space  was  filled  up  with  large  blocks  of  stone.  This  construction 
may  now  be  best  studied  on  the  N.  side,  where  a  large  number  of 
the  intervening  blocks  have  been  removed  for  use  in  other  buildings. 
This  procedure  has  created  a  large  moat  or  ditch  between  the  ex- 
terior wall  and  the  foundation-wall,  and  this  ditch  is  entered  by  a 
gate  formed  in  the  outer  wall  at  a  later  period.  The  foundation- 
wall  thus  exposed  to  view  consists  of  13  courses  of  drafted  stones, 
each  course  being  33/4  ft.  high.  On  the  N.,  the  enclosing  wall  meets 
the  N.W.  corner  of  the  wall  of  the  large  Forecourt,  which  projects 
about  75  ft.  beyond  the  enclosing  wall.  A  portal  here  led  into  tho 
vaults;  to  the  left,  above  this  portal,  lies  a  second  door  (now  walled 
up)  witli  Corinthian  columns.  The  outer  wall  is  composed  of  blocks 
of  stones  of  extraordinary  size.  The  lowest  course  consisted  of  stones 
of  moderate  size,  above  which  there  appear  to  have  been  three  other 
layers,  each  about  13  ft.  in  height.  The  lowermost  of  these  three 
courses,  which  is  still  extant  on  all  three  sides,  consists  of  stones 
each  about  30  ft.  long,  13  ft.  high,  and  10  ft.  thick.  The  middle 
row  is  extant  on  the  W.  side  only  and  there  consists  of  three 
gigantic  *Blocks,  which  are  perhaps  the  largest  stones  ever  used  in 
building.  One  of  these  is  about  64  ft.,  another  63^2  ft.,  and  a  third 
62^2  ft-  in  length ;  each  of  them  is  about  13  ft.  high,  and  about 
10  ft.  thick.  The  greatest  marvel  is  that  they  have  been  raised 
to  the  top  of  a  substruction  already  23  ft.  high.  It  was  probably 
from  these  three  extraordinary  blocks  that  the  temple  derived  its 
name  of  Trilithon  ('three-stoned').  The  uppermost  row  has  long 
been  missing.  The  numerous  carefully  chiselled  square  holes  ob- 
served on  the  blocks,  were  probably  intended  for  the  insertion  of 
levers.  On  the  W.  side  an  Arab  wall  has  been  erected  on  the  top 
of  the  large  blocks. 

In  the  modern  village,  to  the  S.E.  of  the  Acropolis,  is  the 
Temple  of  Venus  (or  possibly  of  Fortunri),  a  small,  well-preserved 
circular  structure  (key  with  the  custodian  of  the  Acropolis).  Curi- 
ously enough ,  the  steps  ascend  to  it  on  the  N.  side.  At  the  top  a 
pair  of  columns  stood  both  to  the  right  and  left;  the  projecting  ends 
of  the  cella-wall  were  also  flanked  by  two  columns  ,  of  which  one 
(a  monolith)  is  still  standing.  The  rounded  cella  stands  at  the 
back  of  this  straight  facade.  The  ornamentation  of  the  interior  is 
similar  to  that  in  the  buildings  of  the  Acropolis;  below  are  niches, 
surmounted  by  xdiculaj  with  round  or  angular  pediments.     The 


326   Route  39. 


BAALBEK. 


outside  is  the  most  remarkable  part  of  this  temple,  which  is  a  fine 
example  of  the  late-Roman  baroque  style.  The  cella  is  surrounded 
by  Corinthian  monolithic  columns.  The  podium  between  the< 
columns  is  not  convex,  as  the  wall  of  the  cella  would  seem  to  suggest, 
but  concave,  as  is  also  the  entablature,  the  cornice  of  which  is  lav- 
ishly enriched  with  dentels  and  other  decoration.  The  bases  and 
capitals  of  the  columns  are  pentagonal.  Between  the  corresponding 
pilasters  or  responds  of  the  cella-wall  are  shell-niches,  with  a  curved 
architrave  borne  by  small  Corinthian  pilasters.  Along  the  upper 
part  of  the  wall  of  the  cella  runs  a  frieze  with  wreaths  of  foliage. 
The  building  was  formerly  used  as  a  Greek  chapel,  whence  the 
remains  of  crosses  on  the  interior  walls. 


Environs  of  Ba'albek.  At  the  foot  of  the  lull  of  Skeikh  'Abdullah 
(so  named  after  the  grave  of  a  saint),  */jj  hr.  to  the  S.  W.  of 
Ba'albek,  are  the  ancient  Quarries,  where  another  colossal  hewn 
block  (hajar  el-hubld,  or  'Stone  of  the  Pregnant  Woman1),  probably 
likewise  destined  to  be  used  in  the  construction  of  the  outer  wall 
of  the  Acropolis  (p.  3251,  but  not  yet  separated  from  the  rock,  is 
still  to  be  seen.  Its  prodigious  dimensions  are  appreciated  only  on 
closer  inspection.  It  is  70  ft.  in  length,  14  ft.  high,  and  13  ft.  wide, 
and  would  probably  weigh  at  least  1000  tons.  How  such  a  mass  of 
stone  could  be  transported  remains  an  insoluble  problem.  From 
the  hill  above  we  enjoy  an  admirable  survey  of  the  little  town,  the 
Acropolis,  the  beautiful  wide  plain  with  its  red  earth  (coloured  with 
oxide  of  iron),  the  summit  of  the  Sannin,  and  to  the  N.  of  it  the 
Muneitireh  mountain,  with  its  wooded  slopes.  To  the  E.,  in  the 
small  valley  separating  this  spur  from  Anti-Li banus,  is  the  spring 
Has  el-'Ain  (see  below).  On  the  hill  are  the  remains  of  a  Muslim 
chapel,  and  higher  up  is  a  tomb  surrounded  with  fragments  of  col- 
umns. The  old  towm-walls  of  Ba'albek  skirt  the  slopes  of  this  hill.  — 
Following  the  slope  towards  the  N.E.,  we  come  to  a  heap  of  frag- 
ments of  columns,  and  in  a  few  minutes  to  large  Rock  Tombs  ex- 
tending along  the  N.E.  slope.  [From  this  point  we  may  return 
through  the  town.]  —  Following  the  hill  to  the  right,  we  may  pro- 
ceed to  (20  min.)  Rds  el-'Ain.  A  copious  brook  here  bursts  from 
the  earth  and  is  enclosed  in  a  basin.  Adjacent  are  the  ruins  of 
two  Mosques.  The  smaller  was  built,  according  to  the  inscription, 
by  Melik  ez-Zahir  in  670  of  the  Hegira  (1272),  and  the  larger  by 
his  son  Melik  el-As'ad.  The  outer  wall  of  the  latter  is  still  standing. 
From  this  point  a  shady  road  following  the  course  of  the  brook 
brings  us  in  ca.  l/t  hr.  back  to  the  town. 


a    bv"ffa£jier  *  Debfs,  LeipMg 


327 


40.   From  Ba'albek  to  Tripoli  and  Beirut  via  the 
Cedars  of  Lebanon. 

4*5  Pays.    From  Ba'albek  to  the  Cedars  about  91/4  hrs.;  thence  to  Tripoli 
'■  8'/«  hrs . ;  thence  to  Beirdl  16i/g  hrs.  —  It  is  preferable  (and  even  necessary 
for  travellers  not  provided  with  tents)  to  devote  5  days  to  the  expedition. 
I  We  spend  the  first  night  at  Deir  el-Ahmar  (3  hrs.),  or  at  'Aineita  C&f*  hrs. 
farther),    both    of  which   afford  very   poor   quarters;  the   second  night  at 
i  (61/2  hrs.  from  'Aneita)  Ekden  (or  at  Bsherreh;  43/4  hrs.);  the  third  night  at 
;  Tripoli  (4*/«  hrs.;  9-/4  hrs.  from  Bsherreh);  the  4th  night  at  Jebeil  (9-/4  hrs.; 
poor  accommodation.). —  Until  about  the  end  of  May  the  tour  over  Mt.  Le- 
banon on  horseback  is  generally  impracticable  owing  to  the  snow.    In  that 
case  the  Cedar*  may  he  visited  on  foot  from  'Aineita  (3'/2  hrs.  each  way), 
without,  incurring  any  very  great  fatigue. 

The  road  passes  the  Kishlak,  a  large  barrack  of  the  time  of 
'Ibrahim  Pasha,  and  crosses  the  plain  towards  the  N.W.  After4min. 
it  f.;nis  to  the  right,  and  after  27  rain,  to  the  right  again.  On  the 
left  we  see  the  village  of  Hoshet  es-Sdf.  We  next  pass  (5  min.) 
the  village  of  Ya'dlh  (left),  which  is  occupied  by  Metawileh,  and  is 
badly  supplied  with  water.  Farther  on  (28  min.)  onr  road  is  joined 
by  another  from  the  left.  In  the  fields  to  the  left  we  soon  see 
(17  min.)  the  large  Column  of  Ya'at,  which  we  may  reach  by 
making  a  digression  of  10  minutes.  It  is  a  solitary  monument  with 
an  illegible  inscription  on  the  N.  6ide,  standing  on  a  pedestal  about 
6-/a  I-  hi?h  and  altogether  about  65  ft.  in  height.  The  Corinthian 
capital  is  much  disintegrated.  —  After  1  hr.  we  reach  the  end  of 
the  plain;  towards  the  S.  rises  Mt.  Hermon.  We  now  ride  by  a 
stony  path  to  the  N.  round  a  hill.    In  32  min.  wo  reach  — 

Deir  el-Ahmar,  an  extensive  village  with  a  large  church.  Here 
begins  the  territory  of  the  Maronites  (p.  lxii),  who  are  rather  im- 
portunate. The  water  is  bad.  The  village  derives  its  name  ('red 
church'  l  from  the  abundant  red  stone  in  the  neighbourhood. 

A  guide  from  Deir  el-Ahmar  to  'Aineita  is  necessary.  We  first 
enter  the  small  valley  to  the  S.W.  of  the  village,  and  ascend  a  bad 
path  through  an  oak-wood.  The  oaks  are  low,  but  have  thick 
trunks,  and  are  interspersed  with  juniper  and  barberry.  After 
40  min.  on  the  height  we  avoid  a  path  to  the  right,  and  in  25  min. 
descend  into  a  green  valley  which  we  go  up.  Proceeding  in  a  N. 
direction,  we  cross  several  small  valleys  with  numerous  transverse 
paths  and  pass  the  village  of  Bsheithjch  on  our  left.  In  l3/4  hr.  we 
reach  the  miserable  Maronite  village  of 'Aineita,  near  which  is  a 
dale  planted  with  walnuts.  We  cross  this  dale  by  the  upper  (N.) 
road  (0  min.);  on  our  left  is  a  beautiful  spring,  and  then  a  second 
and  larger  one  (12  minA  Here  we  take  the  path  to  the  left,  which 
ascends,  along  the  right  slope  of  the  valley.  After  25  min.  we  pass 
a  gorge  ascending  to  the  right.  The  path  ascends  steeply  in  wind- 
ings, continuing  to  afford  a  fine  view  of  the  village  of 'Aineita, 
of  the  Lake  of  Yammtineh  to  the  8.,  and  of  the  great  range  of  Anti- 
Libanus  opposite.  After  55  min.  we  cross  to  the  loft  side  of  the  valley. 


S%*,  v-^"^  ■■■■■ 

■■■■■    MMMi 


328 


«0«(f   40. 


THE  CEDARS. 


Fro>n  Ba'albek 


In  20  min.  more  we  reach  the  top  of  the  pass  of  the  Jebel  el-Arz-, 
or  'Cedar  Mountain'  (7700  ft.),  on  which  snow  often  lies  even 
in  summer.  The  range  of  Lebanon  stretches  from  S.W.  to  N.E.  ; 
its  chief  summits  rising  to  the  N.  of  the  pass  are  J)ahr  el-Kodlb 
(10,050  ft.),  Nab'a  csh-Shemeila  or  El- Miskiy eh  (10,037  ft.),'  and 
Jebel  Makmal  [10,010  ft.).  The  view  from  the  top  of  the  pass  is 
very  extensive.  The  whole  landscape  seems  tinted  with  different 
shades  of  blue,  from  the  dark  blue  of  the  foreground  to  the  pale 
blue  of  the  horizon.  The  valley  of  the  Iiikar  (p.  292)  is  spread 
like  a  map  at  our  feet.  The  long  range  of  Anti-Libanus  termin- 
ates with  the  summit  of  Mt.  Hermon,  to  the  right  of  which  the 
depression  of  the  Jordan  valley  is  distinguishable.  Towards  the  8j 
the  Jebel  Sannin  (p.  283)  and  the  lake  of  Yammuneh  (p.  327) 
are  visible.  Towards  the  W.  the  mountains  slope  away  to  the  sea. 
Tripoli  with  its  harbour,  and  a  wide  expanse  of  the  Mediterranean 
are  visible,  while  the  foreground  consists  of  a  grand  amphitheatre 
of  mountains  with  the  cedar  groves. 

We  now  descend  into  the  valley  where  the  deep  ravine  of  the 
Nahr  Kadisha  ('sacred  river')  begins.  In  Vfa  hr.  we  reach  the  bed 
of  the  brook,  and  in  20  min.  more  the  group  of  — 

*Cedars  (6315  ft.  above  the  sea),  situated  at  the  foot  of  the  Dahr 
el-Kodib  (see  above),  a  precipitous  and  bald  snowy  peak.  Opposite 
them,  to  the  W.,  rises  the  peak  of  f  urn  el-Mizdb.  The  group  occupies 
the  top  of  a  hill  (a  moraine),  on  the  E.  and  W.  sides  of  which  runs 
a  water-course.  It  is  one  of  the  smallest,  containing  about  400  very 
old  trees,  the  tallest  of  which,  however,  does  not  exceed  80  ft.  in 
height.  The  rock  on  which  they  grow  is  white  limestone,  and  the 
decaying  spines,  cones,  and  other  matter  have  formed  a  dark-* 
coloured  soil.  The  oldest  trees,  seven  in  number,  are  on  the  S.E. 
height.  In  the  midst  of  the  N.W.  cluster  stands  a  Maronite  chapel. 
A  few  paces  to  the  N.  of  the  chapel  by  the  house  stands  the  largest 
cedar;  it  has  a  circumference  of  47  feet.  The  peasants  celebrate  ad 
annual  festival  here  in  August. 

The  Cedar  (Cedrvt  Libani;  Arab,  arz,  Hebrew  aeraez)  is  always  mentioned 
in  ancient  works  of  botany  as  the  noblest  of  trees.  The  Israelites  especially 
admired  it  as  the  ornament  of  Lebanon  (Ezek.  xxxi.  3  et  acq.;  Psalms  xciu 
12,  civ.  16),  where  it  formerly  covered  many  summits  that  are  now  barej 
No  such  trees  grew  in  the  land  of  Israel,  so  that  Solomon  caused  cedari 
to  be  brought  from  Lebanon  for  the  building  of  the  Temple  (1  Kings  v.  6)1 
and  a  supply  from  the  same  source  was  obtained  for  the  second  Templa 
(Kzra  iii.  7).  The  trunk  of  the  cedar  was  also  used  for  the  masts  of  ships 
(Ezek.  xxvii.  5).  It  is  possible,  however,  that  by  aeraez  the  Hebrews  majj 
also  have  meant  other  trees  of  the  pine  family. 

The  cedar  belongs  to  the  conifers,  most  nearly  resembling  the  larch, 
but  is  distinguished  from  it  by  its  evergreen  leaves  which  do  not  fall  ofl 
in  winter,  by  the  horizontal  roof-iike  spreading  of  its  branches,  and  bjj 
its  superior  size  in  every  part,  and  especially  by  its  cones,  which  ara 
nearly  as  large  as  a  goose's  egg.  So  flatly  do  the  branches  and  twigs  ol 
the  cedar  extend  from  the  trunk,  that  the  cones  seem  to  lie  upon  them 
as  if  on  small  patches  of  meadow.  In  the  character  of  its  branches  tha 
cedar  resembles  an  aged  larch,  but  in  some  of  the  finest  examples  its 
limbs  rather  recall  the  majestic  oak.     The  wood  is  whitish  and  nioderatcljl 


to  Beir&t. 


THE  CEDARS. 


40.  Route.   329 


soft,  and  for  economical  use  is  far  inferior  to  the  timber  of  the  cypress. 
!  The  great  modern  region  of  cedars  is  the  Cilician  Taurus,  where  the  ex- 
tensive mountain-range  beyond  Mersina  and  Tarsus,  and  above  the  ravines, 
is  beautifully  clothed  with  these  trees,  interspersed  with  black  firs.  In 
the  Taurus,  as  well  as  on  Lebanon,  two  varieties  occur:  one  is  the  dark 
green,  with  bright  green  leaves;  the  other  the  silvery  white,  the  leaves 
of  which  have  a  bluish  bloom.  This  dimorphism  rarely  occurs  with  plants 
.  of  the  same  kind  and  in  the  same  place.  The  cedar  of  Lebanon  is  only 
ja  local  form  of  a  more  widely  extended  species,  of  which  there  are  two 
other  varieties,  viz.  the  cedar  of  the  Himalaya  (Cedrus  deodara  Roxburgh) 
and  that  of  the  Atlas  (Cedrus  atlanlica  Manetti).  Between  these  three  great 
groups  is  no  specific  distinction;  they  merely  differ  in  size,  and  somewhat 
in  habits,   according  to  the   climate  to  which   they  belong  —  the  humid 


i~*V.  / 


CtDAM    01    kEBA^JQlHJ, 

By  t  11   ILalmer; 


mountains  of  India,  the  temperate  Lebanon,  or  the  dry  atmosphere  of 
Algeria.  The  Indian  cedar,  the  'wood  of  the  gods'  (devadaru)  in  Sanscrit, 
is  one  of  the  most  magnificent  trees  in  existence.  It  attains  a  height  of 
165  ft.  (twice  that  of  the  Lebanon  cedar)  and  a  circumference  of  39  ft., 
while  its  cones  are  also  much  larger.  The  cedar  of  the  Atlas,  on  the  other 
hand,  is  smaller  than  that  of  Lebanon;  its  leaves  are  very  short,  its  cones 
smaller,  and  its  growth  more  gnarled.  —  The  cedar  has  been  frequently 
introduced  into  Europe,  and  thrives  particularly  well  in  England.  Those 
in  the  .lardin  des  Plantes  at  Paris  have  grown  from  seeds  imported  by 
Tournefort  at  the  beginning  of  the  18th  cent.,  and  are  among  the  oldest 
in  Europe,  but  are  not  so  tall  as  one  near  Geneva,  which  has  attained  a 
height  of  120  ft. 


^ 


330 


JZoufe  40. 


EHDEN. 


/Vom  Ba'albeh 


Leaving  the  Cedars,  we  again  turn  towards  the  W".  and  descend 
to  the  road,  which  we  follow  towards  the  N.  W.  In  25  min.  the  path 
divides,  the  branch  to  the  left  leading  to  Bsherreh  (see  below).  We 
keep  to  the  right  and  pass  (20  min.)  the  large  spring  'Ain  en-Neba'. 
We  obtain  repeated  glimpses  of  the  valley  of  the  Kadisha,  which  is 
surrounded  by  villages.  In  40  min.  we  reach  the  beginning  of  a  large 
basin,  into  which  we  descend.  After  1  hr.  we  cross  a  valley  which 
descends  from  the  monastery  of  Mar  Serkls.  Skirting  the  margin 
of  the  gorge,  we  ascend  to  (1/4  hr.)  Ehden  (4740  ft.  ;  quarters  at  the 
house  of  the  KhUri,  p.  xvii;  tents  are  pitched  under  the  walnuts 
above  the  village).  The  village  (ca.  450  Maronite  families)  lies  on 
a  slope  at  the  extremity  of  the  amphitheatre  of  mountains  sur- 
rounding the  valley  of  the  Kadisha,  and  is  encircled  with  pines,  mul- 
berry and  fig  trees,  and  vineyards.  On  theE.  side  flows  a  large  brook. 

From  the  Cedaes  to  Ehden  via.  Bsherreh  and  Kannobin  (about  61/2  hrs.)- 
An  interesling  digression,  occupying  1  day;  tolerable  accommodation  in 
Bsherreh.  From  the  point  where  the  path  divides  (25  min.  from  the  Cedars, 
see  ahove)  we  descend  a  steep  path  through  a  side-valley,  watered  by 
the  fAin  en-Nebar  (see  above),  to  (35  min.)  Bsherreh,  beautifully  situated 
on  a  spar  above  the  Kadisha  valley,  the  slopes  of  which  are  terraced, 
and  planted  with  walnut,  fig,  mulberry,  and  poplar.  The  country  gives 
manifest  tokens  of  the  industry  and  prosperity  of  its  inhabitants.  The 
village  has  four  churches  and  a  Latin  monastery,  the  large  Maronite  church 
being  apparently  old.     |From  Bsherreh  to  Beirut  via  Afka,  see  p.  336.] 

We  now  descend  the  valley  on  the  right  side  (guide  desirable).    In 
a  sheltered   situation  below   is   visible   a  small  Maronite  monastery;    on 
the  opposite  hill  is  the  village  of  Bakdfra,  and  farther  off  Bkarkdslieh 
(p.  336).  On  the  hill  to  the  right,  after  16  min.,  we  see  Deir  Hamalldh,  and 
to  the  left,  below,  Mdr  Jirjis.  After  6  min.,  a  large  brook;  then  Deir  Mdr 
Tedrits,   on  the  hill  to  the  right;   opposite,  on  the  left  side  of  the  valley, \ 
the  village  of  Bez'dn.    In  12  min.  more  we  cross  the   Wddi  llajit.    After! 
11  min.  we  pass  under  an  arch  of  the  aqueduct  of  Hajit.     On  the  opposite 
side  of  the  valley  lies  JlasrHn.    In  34  min.   we  pas's  opposite  to  Bdt-nidn, 
above  which  is  JIadeth  (p*.  336).     Below,   towards    the  valley,   lies  BUze.h. 
We  then  obtain  a  view  ('A  hr.)  into  the  profound   Wddi  Kann6bin.    After! 
a  very  steep  descent  of  43  min.  we  reach  the  monastery  of  — 

Kannobin  (where  the  monks  entertain  travellers  hospitably,  comp.  j 
pp.  xvi,  xvii).  The  monastery,  which  derives  its  name  from  the  Greekj 
xoi-i'dfiiov  (monastery),  stands  romantically  perched  on  the  rock  on  the  right 
side  of  the  Kadisha  valley,  about  390  ft.  above  its  bed,  and  enclosed  by  pre-  j 
cipitous  mountains.  The  hills  are  sprinkled  with  villages  with  gleaming  white  j 
churches.  The  country  is  richly  cultivated.  The  gorges  contain  numerous  ca- j 
verns,  once  used  as  hermitages.  The  monastery  is  said  to  have  been  founded! 
by  Theodosius  the  Great  (379-395).  Since  the  middle  of  (he  15th  cent,  it 
has  been  the  seat  of  the  Maronite  patriarchs,  whose  tombs  lie  beneath  the! 
church.    The  patriarchs  now  reside  at  the  adjacent  village  of  Bdimdn. 

We  again  ascend  the  hill  by  the  same  path,  and  after  23  min.  turn  to 
the  left.  In  the  valley  below  lies  the  village  of  Sib'il.  In  25 min.  we  reach] 
the  village  of  Ilawar.  A  valley  opens  here  to  the  right,  on  the  slope  ofj 
which  Ehden  (see  below)  is  situated.  Nearer  is  the  village  of  Bdn.  After! 
12  min.  we  cross  a  small  valley;  Ban  is  left  on  the  hill  to  the  right.  Wei 
soon  see  the  monastery  of  Kesuaya  in  the  valley  below  Mdt  Anl&n  Keshaydfi 
and  reach  it  in  35  min.  more.  The  monastery  contains  a  printing-office,! 
and  also  several  rooms  for  travellers.     The  church  was  erected  in  1860.     j 

We  retrace  our  steps,  cross  the  bridge,  and  ascend  to  the  left.  Afterj 
10  min.  we  turn  to  the  left  and  obtain  a  charming  retrospective  view.  In] 
40  min.  we  reach  Kafr  Sdb,  opposite  to  'Anturtn.  In  20  min.  we  come  to  the] 
bridge  crossing  the  Ehden,   and  in  •/«  ur-  more  Ehden  itself  (see  above).] 


to  Beirtit. 


TRIPOLI. 


40.  Route.   331 


From  Ehden  we  proceed  towards  the  W.  from  the  village.  After 
*/*  hr.  we  enjoy  a  grand  prospect  towards  the  sea.  The  had  and  stony 
road  next  enters  (%  hr.)  the  wooded  Wddi  Heir&na.  The  path  divides 
(25  min.);  that  to  the  left  is  the  hetter;  (8  min.)  Murhef  Kersd- 
biyeh  is  seen  helow.  The  path  reaches  (33  min.)  the  bottom  of  the 
valley,  passes  (21  min.)  a  small  valley  containing  water,  and 
(23  min.)  affords  a  view  of  MersMneh  on  the  hill  to  the  right.  "We 
have  now  reached  the  hill-country.  After  10  min.  we  leave  the 
village  of  Iyal,  with  its  castle,  on  a  hill  to  the  right.  We  pass 
(18  min.)  Kafr  Hatta  and  reach  (20  min.)  Zegharta,  with  its  large 
church,  the  winter-quarters  of  many  of  the  inhabitants  of  Ehden. 
The  path  descends  hence  into  the  valley  of  the  Kadisha,  which  is 
here  a  considerable  stream,  and  crosses  the  bridge.  To  the  right, 
on  the  hill  (10  min.),  we  see  the  weli  of  Arddt,  and  (10  min.)  on 
the  left  Hdret  Nejdeldya.  In  '/2  hr.  we  enter  the  olive  plantations, 
and  10  min.  later  see  the  first  houses  of  Tripoli  below. 

Tripoli.  • —  Hotel  Beaute  d'Orient  (kept  by  Iskander  Shawi.,  an 
Arab),  pens.  8  fr.,  wine  extra;  Hotel  d'Euuope  (PI.  13,  A  1;  Theod.  Kyria- 
kidis),  both  in  El-Mina  (p.  833). 

Vice-Consulates.  Great  Britain  (PI.  4;  A,l),  /.  Abela;  United  States, 
Dr.  Harris;  Germany,  O.  Catzeflis;  France,  Armez;  Italy,  Pittaluga;  Nether- 
lands (PI.  5;  A,  1),  N.  Beraut. 

Telegraph:  Turkish,  in  the  town;  International  (PI.  A,  1),  in  El-Mina. 
—  Bank:  Branch  of  the  Banque  Ottomane  (PI.  1;  D,  3).  —  Tramway  to  Kl- 
Mina  ('25  min.)  ll/\  piastre.  —  Steamers,  see  p.  360. 

Tripoli  (Tardbulus),  the  capital  of  a  Liwa  in  the  Vilayet  of  Beirut, 
has  30,000  inhabitants :  24,000  Muslims,  4500  Orthodox  Greeks, 
1500  Maronites.  The  town  contains  14churches,  of  which  3  are  Greek, 
5  Latin  (viz.  2  belonging  to  the  Franciscans,  1  to  the  French  Sisters 
of  Charity,  1  to  the  Lazarists,  and  1  to  the  Carmelites),  4  Maronite, 
1  United  Greek,  1  Protestant.  The  American  mission  has  a  station 
and  girls'  school;  the  French  Sisters  of  Charity  have  an  orphanage 
and  a  girls'  home;  and  the  Freres  des  Ecoles  Chre'tiennes  have  a 
convent  and  school  both  here  and  at  El-Mina  (PI.  8;  A,  1).  The 
Muslims  and  other  confessions  also  have  their  schools ;  and  there 
are  14  mosques  and  1  synagogue.  The  Muslims  are  said  still  to 
possess  valuable  libraries  here.  In  1903  the  port  was  entered  and 
cleared  by  268  steamers  of  324,384  tons  register  and  by  1249  sailing 
ships  of  19,137  tons.  The  imports  (chiefly  cotton  goods  and  other 
manufactures)  were  valued  at  lO3/^  mill,  fr.;  the  exports  at  7  mill, 
fr.  (oranges  and  lemons  l1^,  wool  *■/$,  raw  silk  172)  sponges  l/e, 
soap  1,  home  manufactures  l^mill.  fr.).  Since  the  opening  of  the 
Reyak-IIama  railway  trade  has  much  diminished,  goods  now  pass- 
ing to  and  from  the  interior  via  Beirut.  Silk-weaving  and  soap- 
making  (11  factories)  are  the  chief  industries;  the  silk  sashes  of 
Tripoli  are  noted.  The  environs  are  extremely  fertile;  olives  (yield- 
ing 2'/2  mill.  fr.  per  annum),  oranges  and  lemons  (2'^  mill.fr.), 


332   Bowie  40. 


TRIPOLI. 


FroTn  Iia'albek 


and  mulberries  (for  silk-worms)  are  largely  grown.  The  tobacco-cul- 
tivation is  on  the  increase. 

The  ancient  Phoenician  name  of  Tripoli  is  unknown.  The  town  was 
built,  probably  not  earlier  than  B.C.  700,  after  the  foundation  of  Aradus 
(p.  353),  and  was  a  member  of  the  Phoenician  League  (comp.  p.  265),  but 
does  not  seem  to  have  been  an  important  place.  It  then  lay  close  to  the 
sea.  The  Sidonians,  Tyrians,  and  Aradians  occupied  separate  quarters. 
No  trace  now  remains  of  its  ancient  buildings.  The  town  surrendered 
to  the  Muslims  without  resistance.  When  the  Crusaders  attacked  the  place 
it  was  governed  by  an  independent  emir.  The  siege  was  begun  by  the 
Provencal  Count  Raymund  of  St.  Giles  in  1104,  and  in  order  to  prevent 
possibility  of  relief,  a  castle  was  built  on  the  hill  opposite,  named  by 
the  Franks  Mons  Pellegrinus,  and  by  the  Muslims  Sanjil  (St.  Giles). 
Dissensions  among  the  Christians,  however,  delayed  the  capture  of  the 
town  for  five  years,  and  when  it  was  taken  a  valuable  Arabic  library 
of  upwards  of  100,000  vols,  is  said  to  have  been  burned.  Under  the 
Franks  the  town  prospered  for  180  years,  in  spite  of  internal  discord  and 
terrible  earthquakes.  In  1289  it  was  captured  by  Sultan  Kilawun,  At 
that  period  no  fewer  than  4000  silk-weaving  looms  are  said  to  have  been 
worked  at  Tripoli.  The  modern  Muslim  Tardbulus  was  then  founded  a 
little  inland,  near  the  'Pilgrims''  Mount'.  In  the  16th  cent,  the  place  again 
became  large  .and  populous,  and  consisted,  as  at  the  present  day,  of  a 
seaport  town  and  an  inland  town. 

Tripoli  is  considered  unhealthy,  but  fever  rarely  prevails  until 
the  end  of  summer,  and  is  seldom  dangerous.  The  Tripolitans  call 
their  town  Little  Damascus.  The  streets  are  tolerably  paved  and 
provided  with  footways,  and  many  of  them  have  arcades,  as  at  Je- 
rusalem. The  building  material  used  is  a  porous  conglomerate.  The 
aspect  of  many  streets  is  quite  mediaeval.  Native  silks  are  still  to  be 
seen  in  the  bazaar.  There  are  also  several  large  khans,  the  finest  of 
which  is  the  Khan  es-Sdyha  (PI.  D,  2).  Tripoli  is  best  surveyed  from 
the  Castle  (Forteresse;  PI.  D,  3) ,  the  terrace  in  front  of  which  is 
reached  in  5  minutes.  Towards  the  S.W.  is  seen  the  Tailan  Mosque 
(see  below).  Beyond  the  town  extends  a  beautiful  forest  of  orchards. 
On  the  promontory  lies  the  seaport,  near  which  rise  the  ancient 
towers;  beyond  these  stretches  the  sea,  and  to  the  S.  are  mountains. 
Prom  a  somewhat  higher  point  we  have  a  view  of  the  fortress,  situa- 
ted on  a  narrow  ridge.  At  the  foot  of  the  hill  is  the  Derwtsluych 
(PL  D,  3),  a  monastery  of  dancing  dervishes.  The  castle  is  not 
open  to  visitors.  It  contains  few  relics  of  antiquity.  Towards  the  S. 
is  a  fragment  of  vaulting,  possibly  the  remains  of  the  apse  of  a  Cru- 
saders' church.  Parts  of  the  castle  may  have  belonged  to  Raymund's 
original  edifice.  —  On  the  S.W.  side  of  the  castle  a  paved  path  de- 
scends to  the  right,  and  from  this  point  we  may  visit  the  recently 
restored  Tailan  Mosque  (PL  C,  3).  Inside  the  court  is  a  stalactite 
portal.  The  minaret,  with  its  double  winding  staircase,  is  interesting. 
In  order  to  reach  the  Six  Mediaeval  Towers  which  defend  the 
coast  between  the  scapoic  and  the  mouth  of  the  Kadisha  (here  called 
Nahr  Abu'Ali;  PL  D,  1),  we  follow  the  left  bank  of  the  river  from 
Tripoli  towards  the  N.,  and  reach  the  sea  in  20  minutes.  These 
towers  are  partly  built  with  ancient  drafted  blocks  and  fragments 
of  grey  granite  columns.     We  first  pass  the  remains  of  the  liurj 


to  Beirut. 


BATRUN. 


40.  Route.    333 


fads  en- Nahr  (left;  PL  D,  1),  and  then,  farther  along  the  coast 
(1 '2  inin.),  the  Burj  es-Sebd'  (lion  tower ;  PI.  C,l),  the  best-preserved. 
On  the  S.  side  of  the  Seba'  are  six  slightly  pointed  windows,  and  in 
the  middle  a  large  arch.  The  portal  consists  of  a  pointed  arch  of 
white  and  black  stones  alternately.  The  inscription-slab  has  been 
removed.  About  7  min.  nearer  the  harbour  is  the  Burj  et-Takkiyeh, 
with  a  stalactite  portal.    In  8  min.  more  we  reach  the  seaport. 

El-Mina  (tramway,  sec  p.  331)  the  seaport  of  Tripoli,  contains 
ca.  10,000  inhab.  but  is  otherwise  unimportant.  On  the  coast  we  come 
to  (5  min.)  a  fourth  tower,  the  Burj  el-Maghdribeh  (of  the  Moghre- 
bins;  PI.  B,  1,  2),  and  a  lighthouse  (PI.  A,  1).  The  islands  forming 
the  harbour  are  seen  from  here.  Fine  sponges,  with  coral  still  ad- 
hering to  them,  are  offered  for  sale,  and  sometimes  also  antiquities. 
The  steamboat-offices  and  also  some  cafe's  are  at  the  harbour. 

About  5  min.  to  the  S.  of  the  harbour,  on  the  Beirut  road,  is  a 
modern  tower  called  Burj  esh-Sheikh  'Affan.  In  the  vicinity  is  the 
Protestant  church;  to  the  right  is  the  Greek  church;  and  8  min.  to 
the  S.  is  the  monastery  of  Terra  Sancta. 

From  Tripoli  to  El-Ladiktyeh,  see  p.  351. 

Fbom  TniroLi  to  Beirut,  56  M.,  carriage-road.  Following  the 
telegraph-wires  to  the  S.W.  of  Tripoli,  we  reach  (22  min.)  the  road 
which  leads  from  the  seaport  towards  the  S.,  and  ascend  (8  min.)  a 
hill.  After  17  min.  we  regain  the  coast-road,  and  in  20  min.  reach 
the  village  of  Kalamun ,  the  Calamos  of  Pliny.  The  road  now 
crosses  the  promontory  Eds  en-Natur,  After  3/4  hr.  we  see  the  village 
of  Natur  below  us  to  the  right.  -We  pass  (35  min. ),  on  the  left, 
the  village  of  Zekrun.  Farther  on,  below  us  to  the  right,  we  see 
the  village  of  Enfeh  ('nose'),  and  in  front  of  us  Rds  Shakkd.  To 
the  left  on  the  slope  above  (40  min.)  we  see  the  village  of  Sikka 
with  its  church.  The  path  passes  (12  min.)  a  khan,  and  beyond 
the  Nahr  el-'Asfur  a  second,  in  the  background  of  the  picturesque 
bay  of  Rds  Shakkd  (35  min.).  This  promontory  was  the  ancient 
Theouprosopon  ('god's  visage').  Several  Greek  monasteries  are  sit- 
uated on  the  hill.  We  avoid  the  precipitous  extremity  of  the  cape  by 
ascending  a  small  valley  to  the  E.S.E.  At  the  top  we  have  a  view, 
to  the  N.,  of  the  somewhat  barren  chalk  hills,  the  Ras  en-Natur 
(see  above),  and  El-Mina.  To  the  S.W.  lies  a  wooded  valley,  into 
which  we  descend  ('/a  hr.).  The  path  descends  the  valley,  in  the 
middle  of  which,  on  a  precipitous  rock,  rises  an  Arabian  castle, 
where  the  Metawileh  formerly  levied  blackmail  from  travellers. 
After  12  min.,  a  bridge  over  the  Nahr  el-Jauz;  5  min.,  a  brook 
coming  from  the  S.  is  crossed,  and  tobacco-fields  are  passed.  We  soon 
(10  min. )  quit  the  valley.  On  the  slope  to  the  right  lies  the  village  of 
Kubbeh,  and  nearer  the  sea  is  a  castle.    In  20  min.  we  reach  Batriin. 

18'/2  M.  Batr&n  (Turkish  telegraph-office),  the  ancient  Botrys, 
was  founded  by  the  Phoenicians  under  Itoba'al,  in  the  time  of  Ne- 
buchadnezzar, still  earlier  than  Aradus,  as  a  frontier- fortress  for  the 


JEBEIL. 


From  Ba'albek 


defence  of  the  coast-route.  As,  however,  the  harbour  is  very  small, 
the  town  never  became  a  place  of  importance.  Batrun  has  about 
5000  inhab.  (chiefly  Christians),  is  the  seat  of  a  Kaimmakam,  and 
belongs  to  the  Sanjak  of  the  Lebanon.  In  the  middle  of  the  town 
is  a  mediaeval  castle.  To  the  S.  of  Batrun  are  several  rock-tombs 
■with  sarcophagi. 

Beyond  Batrun  the  rocks  approach  the  sea,  where  they  are  curi- 
ously eroded.  We  follow  the  coast.  On  the  hill  to  the  left  is  (33  min.) 
the  village  of  Kafr  'Ablta;  then  (16  min.)  that  of  TehUm.  We  cross 
the  (12  min.)  Wddi  Medfun  by  a  bridge.  On  the  hill  to  the  left 
(22  min.)  lies  the  village  of  Berbara.  On  the  hill  (27  min.),  to  the 
left,  is  El-Munsif;  (25  min.)  'Amked  ('Amshit),  a  water-course,  and 
two  khans;  (12  min.)  another  khan.  On  the  hill  are  some  houses 
and  gardens  with  palms.  We  soon  obtain  (7  min.)  a  view  of  the  ex- 
tensive bay  stretching  to  Beirut.  Above  us,  to  the  left  ('^hr.),  is  an 
old  church.  We  next  pass  (13  min.)  a  khan  and  a  water-course 
and  (10  min.)  a  rock-tomb  (below).   In  7  min.  more  we  enter  — 

Jebeil,  an  unimportant  little  town  of  1000  inhab.,  throughout 
which  are  scattered  numerous  fragments  of  ancient  columns. 

Jebeil  was  the  ancient  Qebal,  the  inhabitants  of  which  (Giblites)  are 
mentioned  in  Scripture  as  'hewers  of  stone''  (1  Kings  v.  18)  and  as  skilled 
in  shipbuilding  (Ezek.  xxvii.  9).  The  Giblites  were  related  to  the  Bery 
tans.  The  Greeks  called  the  town  Byblos.  Byblos  was  the  birthplace  of 
Philo  (p.  264)  who  states  that  it  was  one  of  the  most  ancient  places  in 
the  world,  having  been  founded  by  Ba'alkronos  himself.  On  the  local  reli- 
gion of  Byblos,  to  which  pilgrimages  were  made,  see  p.  264.  In  1103,  when 
it  was  known  as  Giblet,  it  was  taken  by  the  Crusaders;  in  1188  it  was 
recaptured  by  Saladin,  and  was  afterwards  recovered  by  the  Franks. 

The  Castle  was  probably  erected  by  the  Crusaders  with  the  aid 
of  ancient  materials.  In  the  principal  tower  are  several  large  blocks 
(at  the  S.E.  and  S.W.  corners).  On  the  N.E.  side,  towards  the 
cemetery,  a  fragment  of  sculpture  and  two  small  columns  are  built 
into  the  wall.  —  In  the  W.  part  of  the  town  stands  the  fine  Maronite 
Church  of  St.  John,  dating  from  the  early  part  of  the  12th  century. 

It  consists  of  nave  and  aisles.  The  nave  is  covered  with  arched  vault- 
ing, and  contains  capitals  in  a  style  imitated  from  the  Gothic;  on  the  sides, 
by  the  capitals,  are  also  small  enrichments.  The  arcades  are  pointed,  the] 
windows  round-arched,  and  enriched  with  small  columns  outside.  The  pointed] 
windows  of  the  apses  are  built  up,  and  the  portal  has  been  restored.  Oni 
the  N.  side  the  church  is  adjoined  by  a  small  baptistery,  with  a  semi- 
circular dome  resting  on  four  pointed  arches,  each  of  which  is  differently! 
ornamented.  Around  this  building  runs  a  cornice  with  the  ends  of  tl 
beams  projecting. 

To  the  W.  of  this  is  the  Church  of  St.  Thecla,  with  tastefully 
executed  small  domes.  A  third  church,  now  within  a  house,  dates,! 
according  to  the  inscription,  from  1264.  —  The  Harbour,  which  wasj 
once  defended  by  fortifications  «n  the  islands  in  front  of  it,  contains] 
heaps  of  ruined  columns. 

Near  Jebeil  are  extensive  Necropoles;  and  many  sarcophagi,  the] 
famous  Column  of  Jehavmelck,  with  its  inscription  (Corp.  Inscrip- 
Scmit.  i.  1,  No.  1),  and  even  Egyptian  antiquities  have  been  dis^ 


to  Beirdt. 


'ANTURA. 


40.  Route.   335 


i  covered.  Cippi  with  step-like  enrichments  arc  especially  common. 
The  winged  ball,  a  Babylonian  device,  has  been  found  here  also. 
About  3  miu.  to  the  S.  the  road  to  Beirut  passes  through  a  large 

|  necropolis,  but  many  of  the  tombs  are  buried  in  sand.  A  curious 
feature,  especially  in  the  S.  necropolis,  is  that  the  rocks  here  con- 
tain numerous  round  holes,  which  could  not  have  been  intended 
for  admitting  light  or  air,  as  they  taper  away  to  nothing.  A  stone 
is  generally  placed  over  the  mouth  of  such  holes.  On  the  coast,  to 
the  S.  of  Jebeil,  is  a  large  rock-cavern;  and  many  tombs  are  to  be 
found  at  Kasstiba,  10  min.  to  the  E.,  where  a  chapel  has  been 
erected  with  ancient  materials.  Beyond  Kassuba  are  the  substruc- 
tions of  a  large  temple,  which  was  most  probably  the  ancient  sanc- 
tuary of  Adonis.  A  little  farther  to  the  N.E.  are  other  caverns, 
some  of  which  contain  tomb-niches.  To  the  N.  is  the  chapel  of 
Seyyidet  Mdr  Nuhra,  an  interesting  rock-cavern  with  a  stair. 

On  the  road  from  Jebeil  to  Beirut  we  reach  (12  min.)  a  bridge, 
and  then  (22  min.)  another  bridge.  Above,  to  the  left,  is  the  village 
of  Mc'aiteh.  We  pass  C/2  hr.)  a  khan,  and  the  village  of  Hdldt  on 
the  hill;  (5  min.)  tomb-caverns  on  the  left;  on  the  hill  to  the  left, 
Deir  Mdr  Jirjis.  The  road  next  crosses  (20  min.)  the  Nahr  Ibrahim 
(Adonis,  p.  336),  which  issues  from  a  wild  ravine.  We  pass 
numerous  khans;  11  min.,  Mdr  Dumit;  11  min.,  a  khan;  10  miu., 
Khan  Buwdr.  We  pass  O/4  hr. )  ^ie  village  of  Berja,  near  a  small 
bay,  and  (13  min.)  a  khan,  where  a  view  is  disclosed  of  the  great 
Bay  of  Juneh.  On  the  hill  is  seen  the  village  of  Ghmtr.  Round  the 
hill  runs  a  paved  Roman  road,  hewn  in  the  rock.  From  (37  min.) 
Ma'dmiltein  (steam-tramway  to  Beirut,  see  p.  282),  a  path  ascends 
to  Ghazir  (see  below).  From  Ma'amiltein  to  Juneh  (28  min.),  to 
Nahr  el-Kelb  (50  min.),  and  to  Beirut  (2i/4 hrs.),  see  p.  282.  — 
Beirut,  see  p.  274. 

From  Ma'amiltein  via  Ghazir  to  the  Nahr  ki.-Kk.lh.  S3/*  hrs.  We 
ascend  to  (1  hr.)  Ghazir,  where  a  fine  panorama  is  enjoyed  from  the  roof 
of  the  Jesuit  Institution.  From  Ghazir  (guide  advisable)  we  ascend  to  the 
S.E.,  passing  a  guard-house  on  the  hill.  After  ^4  hr.  we  see  on  the 
opposite  hill  the  Armenian  monastery  Mdr  Antdnius,  which  we  reach 
in  1/i  hr. ;  we  then  descend  to  the  (1/4  hr.)  bottom  of  the  valley,  where 
there  is  a  famous  spring.  The  path  next  passes  (8  min.)  the  village  of 
Bhanantr,  and  farther  on  (27  min.)  commands  a  view  of  the  Maronite  mon- 
astery of  'Ain  War^a,  situated  in  a  picturesque,  pine-clad  ravine,  which 
is  soon  reached  (13  min.).  Ohusld  is  next  passed  (10  min.).  Rounding  a 
corner  (40  min.),  we  see  the  village  of  'Almd  below  us  on  the  right. 
To  the  S.,  below,  lies  the  village  of  Der*4ln.  J&neh,  Ghddir,  Sarbd,  and 
Hdret  Sahen  lie  close  together  in  the  plain.-  In  53  min.  we  perceive  Deir 
Bkevki.  Beyond  it  we  reach  (14  min.)  the  bottom  of  the  Wddi  'Ant&ra 
near  a  mill,  and  then,  after  a  slight,  ascent,  (25  min.)  the  large  monastery 
of  rAntura,  which  was  founded  at  the  end  of  the  17th  cent,  by  the  Jesuits. 
A  large  school  is  conducted  here.  To  the  N.E.  lies  the  village  of  Bznmm&r. 
On  the  Nahr  el-Kelb,  a  little  to  the  S.  of 'Antura,  are  interesting  and  ex- 
tensive grottoes,  to  explore  which  a  rope  and  candles  are  necessary.  They 
lie  about  2  hrs.  above  the  mouth  of  the  Nahr  el-Kelb.  Descending  from 
■Antura  we  pass  the  villages  of  Zdk  Mikdyil  and  ZHk  Matbah  on  our  right, 
and  reach  (1  hr.)  the  Nahr  el-Kelb  5  min.   above   the  old  bridge  (p.  281). 


-  immw$*$'i^+^w*%*&*>*x 


336 


Route  40. 


AFKA. 


From  the  Cedars  to  Beirftt  via  Bsherreh  and  Afka. 

Three  Days  (about  2672  hrs.).  The  first  night  may  be  spent  in  'Akilr 
(0'/«  hrs.)  or  KEl-Muneitira  (2  hrs.  farther  on);  the  second  night  in  Reiftln 
(llhrs.  from  'Akiira)  or  'AjeltUn  (3/i  hr.  farther  on);  from  'Ajeltun  to  Beirut 
is^'/a  hrs.  The  accommodation  is  fair;  tents  are  desirable,  and  indis- 
pensable for  ladies.  Guide  necessary  for  the  whole  route  (about  4  fr 
a-day).     Provisions  should  not  be  forgotten. 

From  the  Cedars  to  Bsherreh,  see  p.  330.  —  We  cross  the  Nahr  Kadisha 
1/2  hr.  above  Bsherreh,  and  ascend  to  the  W.  along  the  steep  slope  of  the 
valley.  On  the  left  (20  min.)  we  see  the  village  of  Bakdfra,  pass  O/4  hr.. 
Bkarkdsheh  and  (•/«  hr.)  Bez'tin,  and  reach  (1/4  hr.)  Hasrtin,  a  large  village 
on  an  eminence  (opposite  to  Hajit,  p.  330).  Beyond  Hasriin  our  route 
leads  to  the  left,  gradually  diverging  from  the  gorge  of  the  Kadisha  and 
commanding  magnificent  views.  After  1  hr.  we  sec  Bdimdn  (p.  330)  below 
us  on  the  right.  On  the  hill,  high  above  us,  lies  JJadeth.  (Between  11a- 
deth  and  Nihd  is  a  group  of  cedars.)  Ascending  the  lateral  valley  tr 
the  left,  we  come  to  (V4  hr.)  Brisdt,  and  after  40  min.  reach  the  top  of  the 
hill  (magnificent  view),  whence  we  cross  a  tableland  to  the  (20  min.) 
narrow  Wddi  ed-Dnweir.  In  10  min.  we  reach  the  brook  in  this  ravine, 
ami  ascend  thence  for  20  min.  on  the  other  side.  After  40  min.  we  cross 
the  Wddi  Ilartta  and  then  (35  min.)  a  small  brook,  where  sandstone  rock 
makes  its  appearance,  and  (35  min.)  reach  the  top  of  the  ridge.  We  ride 
across  the  tableland.  Below,  to  the  right,  is  the  wild  and  narrow  Wddi 
Tanntirtn.  After  40  min.  we  cross  the  deep  Wddi  Bushrtkh,  beyond  which 
we  come  to  the  (20  min.)  lofty  plain  of  Ard  'Akl&k,  inhabited  by  half-caste 
Beduins.  About  3/<  hr.  farther  on  the  route  skirts  a  hill, A  and  in  20  min, 
more  reaches  its  highest  point,  whence  we  look  down  on  'Akura,  situated 
in  the  Wddi  el-Mugheiriyeh  at  the  foot  of  steep  rocks.  We  reach  the  village 
in  1  hr.  20  minutes. 

In  35  min.  after  leaving  'Akura  we  cross  the  valley  by  a  'Natural  Bridge, 
and  reach  (1  hr.  20  min.)  the  village  of  Jil-Muneilira.     In  1/4  hr.  we  reach' 
the  Springs  of  Adonis,   now  called  Nahr  Ibrahim',  situated  in  an  imposing 
verdure-clad  amphitheatre,  with  numerous  pines  and  nut-trees.     The  prin- 
cipal spring  wells  forth  from  a  deep  cavern,  to  the  W.  of  which  are  two 
smaller  brooks.     Below  the  bridge  which  crosses  the  basin  are  three  fine 
waterfalls.    On  a  cliff  opposite  the  cavern  are  the  scanty  ruins  of  a  temple, 
which  stood  on  a  platform.     A  particularly  picturesque  view  of  the  springs 
is  obtained  from  the  village  of  Afka,  to  which  we  ascend  in  x/t  hr.     This 
was  the  ancient  Apheca,  the  site  of  a  famous  temple  of  Venus,  which  was, 
destroyed  by  order  of  Constantine  on  account  of  the  impurity  of  the  rites  j 
celebrated  in  it.     The  myth  of  Venus  and  Adonis  was  connected  with  thisi 
place   on   account  of  the  Springs   of  Adonis.     The  stream  is  occasionally] 
coloured  red  with  mineral  matter,  which  the  ancients  regarded  as  the  blood 
of  Adonis  shed  by  the  wild  boar  (p.  264). 

The  route  from  Afka  follows  a  narrow  terrace  of  the  mountain  towards  i 
the  W.S.W.  After  about  1  hr.  20  min.  we  begin  to  ascend  the  hill  to  the 
left,  and  in  35  min.  reach  the  top.  Opposite  us  towers  the  Sannin  (p.  283).  i 
The  path  next  descends  to  the  bottom  (35  min.)  of  the'  Wddi  Shebr&h, 
follows  the  valley,  and  then  C/2  hr.)  leads  into  the  basin  of  the  Nalir  el-] 
Kelb  (p.  281).  The  village  of  Meirubd  lies  to  the  W.  on  a  terrace  (curious] 
rock -labyrinth).  Proceeding  towards  the  angle  of  the  hill  to  the  S.E., 
we  next  reach  (7z  hr.)  the  large  spring  Neba'  el-'Asal  (honey  spring).  Thej 
path  loads  hence  to  the  W.  to  the  O/2  hr.)  gorge  of  Neba'  el-leben  (milkj 
spring),  which  it  crosses  7<  hr.  below  the  spring  by  means  of  a  huge] 
"Natural  Bridge  (Jisr  el-Hajar)  with  a  span  of  125  ft.,  about  75  ft.  above! 
the  stream.  [The  famous  Natural  Bridge  in  Virginia  is  215  ft.  high  and] 
90  ft.  in  span.]  We  now  follow  the  conduit  coming  from  Nebar  el-Lebenj 
to  C/2  hr.)  Fakra,  where  we  first  observe,  on  a  terrace  to  the  left,  the  ruinj 
of  a  large  temple.  The  court  of  this  building  is  partly  enclosed  by  walls 
of  natural  rock,  while  the  front  wall,  towards  the  E.,  and  the  colonnade] 
wore  artificial.  About  5  min.  to  the  N.  of  the  temple  is  the  ruin  of  aj 
substantial  tower,   perhaps  a  sepulchral  monument.     On  the  right  of  thol 


DUMA. 


41.  Route.    337 


oortal  is  an  inscription  mentioning  the  name  of  Tiberius  Claudius.  In 
hr.  we  reach  the  village  of  El-Mezra'a  (Metra'al  Kafr  Dubydn),  on  the 
Blniir  of  the  bill,  and,  riding  through  the  whole  length  of  the  village 
!*/i  hr.),  descend  to  the  narrow  valley  of  the  Nahr  es-Salib  (3/4  hr.).  We 
igain  ascend  the  hill  (»/*  hr.),  and  pass  Klefdt  on  the  left.  We  pass  O/a  hr.) 
H/Hn,  (V-i  hr.)  Deir  Reiftin  (large  Maro'nite  monastery),  and  (40  min.)  the 
straggling  village  oCAjeltHn.  Opposite  fAjeltun  lies  Bekfeiya.  (p.  282).  We 
next  reach  (I1/4  hr.)  the  village  of  Je'ild,  and  (35  min.)  'Anltira  (p.  335). 
Thence  to  the  Dog  River  and  to  Beirut,  see  p.  335  and  pp.  282-280. 


41.  From  Damascus  (or  Horns)  to  Palmyra. 

The  distance  from  Damascus  to  Palmyra  is  160  M.,  or  ca.  45  hrs\ 
This  is  equivalent  to  a  journey  of  4-5  days  on  horseback,  but  with 
a  camel  (now  comparatively  seldom  used)  it  takes  one  day  less.  The 
usual  Night  (Quarters  are:  9  hrs.  Jertld  (p.  338);  12  hrs.  Karyatein  (p.  338), 
where,  if  necessary,  accommodation  may  be  obtained  at  the  Khuri's 
(p.  xvii);  13  hrs,  KJidn  el-Leben  (p.  389;  972  hrs.  from  Palmyra).  —  A  some- 
what, longer  route  to  Karyatein  (25-26  hrs.)  leads  via,  Seidndya  and  Nebh 
(comp.  pp.  349,  348).  — "A  Dragoman  (comp.  p.  xvii;  tariff,  see  p.  xi)  and  a 
tent  are  indispensable  for  this  expedition.  Good  drinking-water  should 
also  lie  taken ,  as  none  is  obtainable  between  Karyatein  and  Palmyra, 
without  a  digression  (p.  339),  and  as  the  water  at' Palmyra  itself  is  also 
poor  (p.  346).  It  should,  therefore,  be  stipulated  in  the  contract  that  the 
dragoman  hire  at  his  own  cost  additional  camels  at  Karyatein  to  carry 
water.  The  traveller  should  also  obtain  a  supply  of  good  spirits,  both 
to  mix  with  the  bad  water,  and  to  counteract  the  effects  of  the  keen  air 
of  the  desert,  and  sufficient  tobacco  for  distribution  to  the  escort  and  to 
Beduins  whom  one  may  chance  to  meet.  The  tribe  of  the  'Ageil  Beduins, 
which  was  many  years  ago  transferred  from  the  Nejd  to  Baghdad,  affords 
the  most  famed  caravan -leaders,  camel-drivers,  and  camel-riders  in  the 
Syrian  desert.  —  The  return-journey  may  be  made  if  desired  via,  Horns 
(see  below)  or  via  Bafalbek  (p.  350). 

A  shorter  and  more  comfortable  way  to  make  this  excursion  is  by 
carriage  from  Horns,  The  distance  is  about  87  M.,  which  is  accom- 
plished in  two  days,  i.e.  in  20  hrs.  of  actual  driving  (on  horseback  in 
8  days).  We  start  in  the  afternoon,  pass  the  nights  in  Forklut  (4^2  hrs.) 
and  'Ain  el-Beida  (ca.  11  hrs.),  and  reach  Palmyra  early  in  the  forenoon  of 
the  third  day.'  The  charge  for  the  Carriage  is  300  fr.  for  a  week  (more 
in  proportion  if  a  longer  stay  be  made  in  Palmyra).  The  total  expenses 
for  a  party,  including  guides  and  all  necessaries,  amount  to  about  4-500  fr. 
for  each  for  a  week.  Tents  are  very  desirable  for  ladies,  but  cannot  be 
obtained  in  Horns.  The  best  plan  is  to  make  the  contract  with  the  owner 
of  the  hotel  'at  Horns  (p.  366). 

The  best  Travelling  Season  is  April  and  May.  The  desert  is  very 
hot  in  summer  (including  Sept.),  while  in  winter  it  is  often  uncomfortably 
cold.  —  An  Escort  (p.  xxvi)  is  sometimes  indispensable  and  always  de- 
sirable. Information  on  this  point  should  be  obtained  at  the  consulate 
in  Damascus  or  from  the  authorities  in  Horns,  and  not  from  the  drago- 
man. The  escort  should  be  provided  and  paid  (each  man  3-4  fr.  a  day) 
by  the  dragoman. 

Damascus,  see  p.  294.  Leaving  the  Bab  Tuma  (p.  312),  we  ride 
along  the  broad  paved  Aleppo  road,  between  orchards.  In  12  min. 
we  reach  thu  Zeinabtyeh,  a  well  on  the  left,  which  is  said  to  contain 
the  best  water  at  Damascus.  In  1  hr.  more  we  reach  the  village  of 
Harestat  el-Basal,  and  next  (40  min.)  see  the  large  village  of  DUma. 
Trees  gradually  cease,  and  we  come  to  open  fields.  */2  hr.,  Spring  of 
good  water.  After  35  min.  we  reach  the  village  of'Adrd,  which  lies 
below  the  road,  to  the  right,  surrounded  by  vegetation.    The  desert 

Baedeker's  Palestine  and  Syria.    4th  Edit.  21 


wm$m$  m» 


lm 


W&4     w^m&iQ&sxzi  ^H 


H 


338   Route  41. 


JERUD. 


From  Damascus 


now  begins.  We  turn  more  to  the  left  (N.),  towards  the  mountains, 
The  conspicuous  round  peak  is  called  Tentyet  Abu'l-'Atd  (hill  o 
Abu'l-'Ata).  We  next  pass  several  caravanserais  (1  hr.),  the  largos' 
of  which  is  the  modern  Khan  el-'Asdfir  (khan  of  the  sparrows ), 
hut  there  is  no  water  here.  The  ascent  is  now  steeper  and  stony. 
After  25  min.  we  pass  a  cistern  with  rain-water  (bad),  on  the  left; 
on  the  right,  some  ruins.  The  road  then  passes  (55  min.)  a  ruined 
khan  (Mathna  el- Ma' Mil),  dating  from  the  year  1000  of  the  Hegira 
(i.e.  1592).  In  the  distance  we  see  before  us  the  villages  of  Aila 
and  El-Kuteifeh,  and  reach  the  latter  in  1  hr.  5  minutes.  We  next 
reach  (40  min.)  the  village  of  El-Mu'addamiyeh,  whence  distinct 
vestiges  of  an  old  wall  with  small  towers  lead  to  another  village. 
On  the  right  we  pass  (1  hr.)  the  remains  of  an  ancient  Conduit, 
which  begins  at  the:  foot  of  the  mountains.  This  conduit,  whiclj 
is  also  visible  at  Palmyra,  is  constructed  on  the  Persian  system, 
with  the  channel  entirely  under  ground.  It  is  lined  with  masonry, 
and  large  enough  to  walk  in.  For  the  purpose  of  keeping  it  clean 
it  is  provided  with  air-shafts  with  steps,  at  intervals  of  16  yds.  In 
1  hr.  more  we  reach  Jerud,  the  ancient  Geroda,  the  gardens  of 
which  have  long  been  visible.  To  the  right,  a  short  distance  from 
the  road,  is  a  salt  lake,  which  is  sometimes  dry.  The  village  is  a 
modern  and  tolerably  clean  place,  with  three  mosques  and  about 
2000  inhab.,  whose  language  and  customs  resemble  those  of  the 
nomadic  tribes. 

The  route  now  traverses  a  broad  valley  between  barren  hills, 
and  reaches  (25  min.)  the  small  village  of  rAtni  (with  a  spring). 
A  supply  of  water  must  be  taken  here  for  the  whole  day.  Tha 
scenery  is  very  dreary.  To  the  right  are  hills  of  salt,  and  the  soil 
yields  nothing  but  dry  woody  herbs,  affording  scanty  nourishment 
to  the  camel,  and  sometimes  used  for  fuel.  After  23/4  hrs.  we  pass: 
the  ruined  Khan  el-Abyad  (white  khan),  which  lies  10  min.  to  thai 
right.  In  1%  hr.  we  come  to  some  heaps  of  stones,  apparently  the] 
remains  of  some  building,  and  in  1  hr.  more  reach  a  dilapidated 
khan  (no  water)  on  the  left.  The  hills  on  the  left  are  encrusted 
with  salt.  After  23/4  hrs.  we  quit  the  outskirts  of  this  chain  of  hills,  I 
and  ascend  to  a  somewhat  higher  plateau.  After  3  hrs.  10  min.; 
more  of  brisk  riding  we  reach  the  village  of  — 

Karyatein,  the  ancient  Nezala  (tents  are  best  pitched  on  the' 
threshing-floors  to  the  W.  of  the  village).  The  inhabitants  are  Mus-^ 
lims  and  Christians,  the  latter  consisting  of  Syrian  Catholics,  Maro-j 
nites,  and  Greeks.  Around  the  village  lie  thriving  gardens,  where] 
the  vine  also  is  cultivated.  Among  the  Beduins  Karyatein  is  famous^ 
for  a  cure  for  insanity  practised  here.  The  patient  is  bound  andj 
confined  in  a  room  by  himself  for  a  single  night  (Mark  v.  3).  Next] 
morning  he  is  found  without  his  fetters  and  cured.  If,  however,? 
he  omits  to  pay  for  his  miraculous  recovery,  he  relapses  into  his  J 
former  condition  I 


to  Palmyra. 


PALMYRA. 


41.  Route.    339 


Beyond  Karyatein  the  Palmyra  route  leads  to  the  E.N.E.  in  a 
broad,  barren  valley  of  the  Jebel  er-Ruwdk.  A  small  valley  (Y2  hr.), 
containing  a  little  water,  is  passed.  The  route  is  very  monotonous. 
|In  about  7'/2  hrs.  from  Karyatein  we  reach  an  old  castle  named  Kasr 
}el-Heir,  the  tower  of  which  has  long  been  visible.  Extensive  walls 
■and  windows  are  still  standing.  Maltese  crosses  are  said  to  have 
been  detected  on  the  walls.  In  the  vicinity  lie  many  hewn  stones, 
some  of  them  of  marble.  (If  water  has  run  short,  a  digression  of 
3  hrs.  towards  the  E.  hills  must  be  made  to  the  spring  'Ain 
el-  Wu'ul ;  guide  necessary.)  After  4y4  hrs.  we  cross  the  small  Wddi 
el-Mutera,  which  lies  about  halfway  between  Karyatein  and  Pal- 
myra. In  13/4  hr.  more  we  reach  the  ruined  Khan  el-Leben.  The 
ground  here  is  covered  with  woody  herbs ,  and  honeycombed  at 
places  by  the  jerboa  (Arab.  yerb&'J,  or  jumping  mouse  (p.  lvi) ; 
it  also  swarms  with  lizards  and  small  snakes,  which  come  out  of 
their  holes  to  bask  in  the  sun.  The  mountain-range  to  the  left  is 
the  Jebel  el-Abyad. 

After  a  tedious  ride  of  7  hrs.  more  we  obtain  a  distant  view  of  a 
sepulchral  tower  of  Palmyra,  and  reach  it  in  2*/4  hrs.  more.  Traces 
of  an  ancient  conduit  are  again  met  with  here  (comp.  p.  338).  On 
the  hill  to  the  left  are  some  ruins.  We  now  traverse  a  small  valley 
with  sepulchral  towers.  In  5  min.  more  we  come  in  sight  of  the 
temple  of  the  sun  and  the  columns  of  Palmyra  and  of  the  Muslim 
castle  on  the  hill  to  the  left. 


Palmyra  (Tudmur). 

Accommodation.  Tents,  for  which  a  guard  of  soldiers  is  indispen- 
sable, had  better  be  pitched  in  the  orchards,  or  at  the  gate  of  the  temple 
near  the  mosque.  Sheikh  Ahmed  receives  travellers  in  his  house  outside 
the  gate.  —  Two  or  three  shopkeepers  sell  coffee,  tobacco,  and  similar 
articles.  Drinking-water,  see  p.  816.  —  It  is  advisable  to  call  on  the 
Mudtr  and  make  him  a  small  present.  —  The  various  sheikhs  act  as  Guides. 
One  day  is  hardly  enough  for  a  thorough  inspection  of  the  ruins. 

Antiquities.  The  coins  the  people  of  Tudmur  offer  for  sale  are  gener- 
ally Roman,  Greek,  or  Arabian,  in  bad  preservation.  Those  with  the  Pal- 
myrene  characters,  such  as  are  seen  on  the  tombs,  as  well  as  lamps  and 
gems  with  the  same  writing,  are  valuable. 

The  modern  village  of  Tudmur,  consisting  of  about  50  huts,  lies 
amidst  the  ruins  of  the  old  city,  and  is  built  in  part  of  fragments 
of  columns  and  other  ancient  material;  long  village-streets  traverse 
the  ruins  in  various  directions.  Visitors  to  the  ruins  need  have  no 
hesitation  in  entering  the  houses  or  climbing  on  their  roofs.  On 
ccount  of  its  spring  (p.  346),  the  trading-caravans  between  Da- 
mascus and  Baghdad  all  call  at  Palmyra. 

Tadmor  was  a  caravan-station  of  importance  at  a  very  early  period, 
ilthough  the  Revised  Version  is  almost  certainly  right  in  reading  Tatnar 
comp.  E/.ek.  xlvii.  19)  instead  of  Tadmor  in  the  passage  in  1  Kings  ix.  18, 
io  the  effect  that  Solomon  'built  Tamar  in  the  wilderness,  in  the  land'. 
The  climate  of  the  place  was  also  favourable  to  its  development,  but  it 
ras  not  until  the  beginning  of  the.  Christian  era  that  Palmyra  (the  name 
y  which  it  was  known  in  the  Greek  period)  is  mentioned  as  an  impor- 

21  • 


340   Route  41. 


PALMYRA. 


Temple  of 


tant  commercial  place.  At  that  time  it  formed  a  depot  for  silk  and  othe 
E.  Asiatic  and  Indian  products  on  their  way  to  the  West.  In  B.C.  3 
Antony  made  a  predatory  expedition  thither,  but  the  Inhabitants  carri 
off  their  treasures  and  deposited  them  in  safety  with  their  friends  tl 
Parthians  beyond  Euphrates.  Palmyra  attained  the  height  of  its  prosper! 
in  the  3rd  cent,  of  our  era.  At  that  time  it  formed  a  republic  under  tl 
protection  of  Home.  Odenathvs ,  who  styled  himself  King  of  Ptilmyra 
rendered  important  services  to  the  Romans  in  their  war  against  Sap 
King  of  Persia,  after  which  he  arrogated  to  himself  the  title  of  'emperor' 
He  was  at  length  assassinated,  leaving  his  authority  to  his  widow  Zenobi 
(267),  a  woman  who  was  celebrated  at  once  for  her  talents,  her  warlik 
disposition,  and  her  refined  taste.  Under  her  Palmyra  reached  the  heigh 
of  its  glory,  and  adopted  the  Grseco-Roman  culture  more  freely  than  In 
fore.  The  people  still  spoke  Aramaic,  as  most  of  the  inscriptions  prove 
but  the  upper  classes  studied  and  spoke  Greek  and  Latin.  Zenobia  sue 
ceeded  in  extending  her  supremacy  over  Syria,  Mesopotamia,  and  even  pai 
of  Egypt,  but  her  ambition  caused  her  ruin.  Emp.  Aurelian  marched  aga  ins| 
her,  deteated  her  troops  near  Horns,  and  besieged  her  capital.  She  fie 
but  was  taken  prisoner  (273),  and  afterwards  graced  the  emperor's  triumph! 
procession  at  Rome.  The  Palmyrenes  received  a  Roman  garrison,  but  soc 
afterwards  revolted,  and  the  city  was  destroyed  by  Aurelian.  Palmyra 
glory  was  now  gone.  The  walls  and  the  temple  of  the  sun  were  indee 
restored.  At  a  later  period  Palmyra  was  merely  a  frontier-town  in  th 
direction  of  the  desert,  and  was  fortified  by  Justinian  (p.  345).  —  In  th 
meanwhile  the  Ababs  had  penetrated  to  this  district  and  formed  th 
ruling  class  even  before  the  Christian  period.  It  is  even  probable  tha 
the  majority  of  the  inhabitants  were  Arabs,  as  many  of  the  names  men 
tioned  in  Greek  inscriptions  at  Palmyra,  as  well  as  in  the  Hauran ,  a: 
genuine  Arabic.  The  Arabs  probably  served  the  Palmyrenes  as  mercenarie 
—  The  Muslim  conquest  left  Palmyra  uninjured,  but  the  town  suffera 
during  the  conflicts  between  the  Omayyades  and  'Abbasides  in  745.  I 
1089  it  was  visited  by  an  earthquake.  In  1173  the  Rabbi  Benjamin  ( 
Tudela  still  found  a  considerable  colony  of  Jews  at  Palmyra.  Later,  th 
town  fell  so  completely  into  oblivion,  that,  when  it  was  visited  by  membei 
of  the  English  factory  at  Aleppo  in  1678,  they  seemed  to  have  made 
entirely  new  discovery.  —  Comp.  'Les  ruines  de  Palmyre  autrement  di( 
Tedmor  au  De'serf,  by  Wood  and  Dawkins,  Paris,  1812  (somewhat  out 
date).  At  that  period  more  of  the  ruins  were  preserved  than  at  the  pr( 
sent  day.  See  also  'Dix  jours  en  Palmyrene,  par  R.  Bernoville'  (Pari 
1868) ;  and  also  'An  Account  of  Palmyra  and  Zenobia',  by  Wm.  Writy 
(London,  1895). 


Ruins  of  the  Old  Town. 

On  the  E.  side  of  the  ruined  city  lies  the  *6reat  Temple  of  th 
Sun,  which  was  dedicated  to  Baal.  It  was  restored  in  273  uncU 
Aurelian,  but  what  parts  date  from  his  period  cannot  now  be  easil 
distinguished.  The  material,  as  of  all  the  buildings  at  Palmyn 
is  a  slightly  reddish  shell-limestone,  obtained  from  quarries  lyifl 
to  the  W.  of  the  castle. 

The  temple  stood  upon  a  raised  terrace  and  was  enclosed  by  a 
Outbb,  Wall,  about  50  ft.  in  height  and  forming  a  square  of  whi< 
each  side  was  256  yds.  in  length  (inside  measure).  One  of  thei 
sides  only  (N.)  is  now  fairly  well  preserved.  The  substructuri 
which  is  probably  still  in  existence  below  the  surface  of  the  eart 
in  other  places  also,  is  about  10  ft.  in  height,  formed  of  fine  law 
blocks,  and  about  20  ft.  broader  than  the  wall.  The  wall  itself  wi 
divided  into  sections  by  thirteen  pilasters,  which  still  exist,   ail 


the  Sun. 


PALMYRA. 


dl.  Route.    341 


flanked  by  pilasters  68  ft.  in  height, 'projecting  in  groups  of  three, 
and  presenting  the  appearance  of  corner-towers.  The  square  win- 
dows between'thejpilasters  are  also  preserved,  although  for  the  most 
part'roughly  filled  with'stones.    One  of  those  not  so  obstructed  may 


342 


.Route  47. 


PALMYRA. 


Temple  of  the  Sun. 


be  used  as  an  entrance  to  the  interior.  Small  gates  were  also  in- 
serted in  the  enclosing  wall,  and  one  of  these,  still  turning  on  its 
ancient  stone  hinges,  is  extant.  The  foundations  only  of  the  other 
three  sides  of  the  outer  wall  are  ancient,  the  upper  part  having  been 
carelessly  built  of  ancient  materials  by  the  Arabs  who  used  the 
temple  as  a  fortress  (like  the  Acropolis  of  Ba'albek,  p.  320).  A  kind 
of  moat  was  also  constructed  by  them.  On  the  W.  side  is  the  Prin- 
cipal Entrance,  which  is  also  an  addition  of  the  Muslim  period, 
with  a  lofty  pointed  portal,  occupying  the  site  of  the  ancient  portal, 
which  was  purposely  destroyed.  A  grand  flight  of  steps,  120  ft.  in 
width,  ascended  to  the  Portico,  which  was  formed  by  Corinthian 
columns  12  ft.  in  height.  Within  this  was  a  large  triple  Portal, 
the  pilasters  of  which  are  still  to  be  seen  in  the  modern  tower,  but 
probably  no  longer  in  their  original  places.  Inside  are  fine  remains 
of  the  ancient  portico  with  rich  garlands. 

Our  survey  of  the  Interior  is  considerably  hampered  by  the 
houses  of  the  modern  village.  The  inside  of  the  enclosing  wall  is 
elaborately  adorned  with  niches  and  recesses,  and  is  connected  by 
beams  with  an  imposing  Colonnade,  which  received  its  lighlj 
through  the  windows  in  the  wall.  On  three  sides  this  colonnade! 
was  double,  but  on  the  entrance-side  (W.)  there  was  a  single  row; 
of  columns  only.  (The  Herodian  Temple  at  Jerusalem  was  built 
on  a  similar  plan;  comp.  p.  51.)  Besides  the  corner-pilasters  theref 
are  still  preserved  whole  rows  of  columns  with  entablature,  distri- 
buted among  the  houses,  about  fifty  in  all.  The  original  number  ofl 
columns  was  about  390.  Almost  every  column  has,  about  two^ 
thirds  of  the  way  up,  a  kind  of  bracket  and  a  pedestal,  and  some-^ 
times  even  two  of  the  latter,  on  which  statues  and  other  votive 
offerings  were  placed.  The  frequency  with  which  these  pedestals 
occur  points  to  the  period  of  the  decline  of  art,  or  to  ignorance  or! 
the  principles  of  Roman  architecture. 

The  imposing  colonnade  enclosed  a  large  square  Court,  traces  ol 
the  paving  of  which  are  still  visible  at  places.  The  large  reservoir! 
(birkeh)  still  existing  were  anciently  used  for  religious  ablutions.    ] 

In  the  centre  of  this  court,  a  little  nearer  the  S.  side,  rose  a 
second  platform,  on  which  stood  the  Temple  itself,  situated  from 
N.  to  S.  (about  G5  yds.  long  and  34  yds.  wide).  It  was  a  peripJ 
teros ,  or  temple  with  a  single  peristyle  of  columns.  Of  thesa 
columns,  which  were  50  ft.  in  height,  a  few  only  arc  preserved! 
chiefly  at  the  back  of  the  building  (E.  side).  They  are  fluted,  ami 
are  now  destitute  of  their  capitals,  which  were  probably  of  bronzfl 
and  therefore  eagerly  appropriated  as  booty.  Opposite  the  ancienj 
portal  in  the  outer  wall  (p.  340)  the  temple  had  a  rich  Portal  bfl 
tween  two  columns,  leading  into  the  colonnade.  This  is  the  mod 
favourable  point  for  a  survey  of  the  rich  ornamentation  of  the  frieze, 
with  its  figures  and  garlands.  The  longer  walls  of  the  temple  |  ■ 
and  W.)  have  each  four  windows,  while  two  columns  with  Ionic 


Street  of  Columns. 


PALMYRA. 


41.  Route.   343 


capitals  project  from  each  side  of  the  end-walls  (N.  and  S.).  The 
Portal  of  the  Cella  (W.),  one  of  the  most  beautiful  architectural 
relics  of  Palmyra,  is  about  33  ft.  high  and  is  lavishly  enriched. 
The  ceiling  of  the  doorway  is  adorned  with  a  relief  representing  an 
eagle  with  outstretched  wings  on  a  starred  ground,  flanked  by  genii. 
A  large  fragment  of  the  entablature  has  fallen,  and  may  be  closely 
inspected.  Inside  the  portal  a  large  and  somewhat  rudely  executed 
stone  figure  lies  on  the  ground.  —  The  ceiling  of  the  ancient  Cella 
has  fallen  in,  and  the  roof  of  the  mosque  occupying  its  site  rests 
I  on  ill-constructed  arches.  In  the  N.  wall  is  a  niche  containing  a 
square  slab  of  stone  bearing  a  circle  with  the  signs  of  the  zodiac, 
in  the  centre  of  which  are  seven  pentagons  with  busts  in  high  relief. 
All  this,  however,  has  been  sadly  damaged  by  Muslim  vandalism. 
The  temple-walls  are  still  all  well  preserved.  On  the  S.  side  is 
now  the  Mihrab  (comp.  p.  lxxiv).  On  the  N.  side  a  richly  decorated 
door  leads  to  a  staircase.  The  striking  view  from  the  top  embraces 
the  temple,  the  village,  and  the  castle  on  the  hill  towards  the  N. 
(p.  348). 

Beyond  the  space  in  front  of  the  W.  facade  of  the  ancient  temple 
stands  the  Jdmi'  el-Fadel,  a  small  modern  mosque.  The  minaret  is 
curiously  constructed  upon  obliquely  laid  fragments  of  columns. 

About  165  yds.  from  the  N.W.  corner  of  the  temple  begins  a 
Street  of  Columns,  which  intersects  the  entire  town  from  S.E.  to 
.N.W.  for  a  distance  of  about  1240  yds.  It  begins  with  a  Portico. 
We  here  find  many  traces  of  magnificent  buildings  and  columns. 
One  large  column,  in  particular,  now  overthrown,  is  of  gigantic 
dimensions.  Huge  capitals  are  scattered  around,  a  remarkably  fine 
one  lying  between  the  mosque  and 
the  portico.  To  the  left  are  seen 
traces  of  a  wall.  The  space  here  was 
perhaps  the  Market  Place,  where 
several  streets  converged.  On  a  col- 
umn here,  in  front  of  the  portico, 
the  votive  inscription  of  the  leader 
of  a  commercial  caravan  has  been 
discovered.  As  the  street  of  columns 
had  a  different  axis  from  that  of 
the  portico ,  the  discrepancy  was 
masked  in  the  manner  shown  on  the 
accompanying  ground -plan.  The 
portico  is,  as  it  were,  wheeling  round 
on  Pillar  1  as  a  pivot,  so  as  to  get 
into  line  with  the  colonnade.  The  following  parts  are  preserved: 
Pillars  1  and  2  with  imbedded  columns  and  the  arch  b,  above  which 
are  remains  of  a  large  square  window.  This  arch  is  still  lavishly 
enriched  on  the  N.W.  side,  the  most  highly  ornate  parts  being  the 


■* 


l         i 


• .  •   • ,  • 


1# 


344 


Route  41. 


PALMYRA. 


Street  of 


I 


tapered  comer-pilasters  and  the  festoons  running  round  the  arch. 
The  erosion  of  the  soft  limestone  should  he  noticed  in  Pillar  1. 
Arch  c,  with  a  roofed  niche  ahove  it,  and  arch  d.  Then  arch  e  with 
pillar  7.  The  hest-preserved  part  of  all  is  arch  a,  seen  from  the 
colonnade.  The  Corinthian  pillars  (PI.  1,  3)  at  the  sides  are  very 
imposing;  the  arch,  ahout  34  ft.  in  height,  is  richly  decorated. 
Unfortunately,  the  keystone  has  slipped,  so  that  the  whole  of  this 
beautiful  arch  threatens  to  fall. 

From  the  great  central  portico  extend  the  Rows  of  Columns 
(PI.  f,  g),  which  are  still  preserved.  In  one  row  stood  about  375 
columns,  each  55  ft.  in  height.  Of  these  about  150  are  wholly  or 
partly  extant,  a  number  of  them,  next  the  portico,  still  bearing 
their  entablature.  All  the  columns  are  provided  with  corbels  or 
pedestals  like  those  of  the  Temple  of  the  Sun  (p.  34'2),  about  two- 
thirds  of  the  way  up,  projecting  towards  the  main  street.  Inscriptions 
are  still  to  be  seen,  recording  the  names  of  meritorious  citizens 
whose  statues  were  placed  here.  The  central  street,  many  traces  of 
the  pavement  of  which  still  exist,  was  flanked  on  each  side  by  a 
covered  colonnade  or  peristyle,  closed  at  the  back  by  houses.  Be- 
tween the  columns  were  doors,  which  probably  led  into  shops. 
Above  the  peristyle,  at  places  at  least,  ran  a  second  and  smaller 
covered  colonnade,  commanding  an  excellent  survey  of  the  busy 
street  below. 

The  row  of  columns  is  interrupted  farther  on  by  a  Tetrapylon 
(p.  xcv).    Here,  instead  of  the  columns,  were  lofty  pilasters,  ad- 
joining which  four  columns  projected  into   the  street.     The  only 
one  of  these  columns  now  standing  is  a  huge  monolith  of  granite 
speckled  with  blue,  probably  brought  from  Egypt.    A  second,   new 
prostrate  on  the  ground,  measures  29  ft.  in  length,  and  is  near  the 
base  a  little  more,  and  near  the  top  a  little  less,  than  3  ft.  4  in.  in  ] 
diameter.  To  the  right,  at  the  back  of  the  pilasters,  we  observe  the 
beginnings  of  arches  and  traces  of  a  street.    One  of  the  streets  bor- 
dered with  columns  led  to  a  small  Temple,  of  whose  peristyle  ten  fine  j 
Corinthian  monolithic  columns  are  preserved.    The  "W.  front  of  this 
peristyle  is  preserved,  besides  which  a  pilaster  is  still  standing  on  i 
the  S.W.,  and  a  column  on  the  N.W.  side.  —  Beyond  the  tetra- 
pylon begins  a  beautifully  preserved  row  of  columns,  eleven  in 
number,  and  connected  by  an  entablature.    Farther  on  is  a  Portico 
between  the  columns,  with  an  arch  resting  on  pilasters  of  the  same 
height  as  the  corbels  projecting  from  the  columns.   This  portal  also 
was  double  on  the  W.  side.   Between  this  point  and  a  second  portal  j 
are  twenty-five  more  columns,  also  connected  by  an  entablature. 
Two  of  these  columns  have  corbeis  for  statues  on  their  W.  side,  j 
The  W.  side  of  the  capitals  has  suffered  seriously  from  exposure  to 
the  weather.    By  the  seventh  column  of  the  twenty-five  is  a  large 
round  opening  in  the  centre  of  the  main  street,  resembling  that  of  a 
cistern,  and  doubtless  belonging  to  an  ancient  conduit. 


Columns. 


PALMYRA. 


41.  Route.   345 


To  the  left,  at  the  back  of  the  row  of  columns,  we  come  to  a  con- 
siderable" building,  near  the  street,  now  called  Dur'Adleh,  and 
containing  a  fine  niche  over  the  portal  in  the  interior.  From  this 
point  a  slightly  curved  row  of  columns  (perhaps  a  stadium)  diverged 
to  the  left.  Ten  columns  are  preserved,  which  lead  towards  a  large 
temple  or  palace,  now  called  the  Serdi.  The  ground-plan  of  these 
structures  is  almost  obliterated  by  the  sand.  To  the  N.  a  well- 
preserved  single  row  of  20  columns  runs  towards  the  main  street. 
Near  the  beginning  of  it  is  the  well-preserved  peristyle  of  a  smaller 
Temple. 

Returning  to  Dur  rAdleh,  we  next  come  to  a  series  of  columns 
preserved  on  the  left  side,  and  then  to  a  handsome  Portal,  about  22  ft. 
wide,  leading  to  the  large  doorway  of  a  building  on  the  left.  Beyond 
this  the  series  of  columns  continues,  and  it  is  noteworthy  that  those 
which  follow  are  higher  than  those  we  have  passed.  On  the  right  are 
four  columns,  the  first  of  which  bears  another  smaller  column.  We 
now  reach  a  small  open  space,  at  the  corners  of  which  are  four  mass- 
ive pedestals  of  large  blocks  (resembling  those  at  Jerash,  p.  140), 
about  32  ft.  apart.  This  was  an  important  efossway  and  business 
centre  of  the  city,  and  was  probably  also  a  vaulted  Tetrapylon.  A 
street  of  columns  diverged  hence  to  the  left  towards  the  Serai.  Curious- 
ly enough,  the  main  street  extended  beyond  this  point  at  a  slight 
angle  (towards  the  right)  with  the  preceding  part,  an  arrangement 
which  was  perhaps  designed  to  enhance  the  effect  of  the  perspective. 

Farther  on  are  remains  of  columns,  two  handsome  sarcophagi, 
and  traces  of  a  street  of  columns  leading  to  the  left.  We  finally 
reach  a  point  where  the  columns  were  terminated  by  a  building  placed 
across  their  line  at  a  right  angle,  probably  a  Tomb.  The  front,  con- 
sisting of  six  monolithic  columns  on  slightly  raised  ground,  with 
well-preserved  bases,  is  still  in  existence.  So  also  is  part  of  the 
pediment,  behind  which  is  a  very  handsome  pilaster  which  formed 
one  corner  of  the  building.  Around  the  ruin  are  a  number  of  large 
hewn  blocks,  some  of  which  are  elaborately  enriched.  Near  it  stands 
a  second  monument  of  similar  character. 


The  Town  Proper  lay  on  both  sides  of  the  row  of  columns.  The 
courses  of  the  streets  are  not  at  once  distinguishable,  although  they 
probably  lie  at  no  great  depth  below  the  rubbish,  and  the  direction 
of  the  side-streets  can  be  determined  only  by  the  position  of  the 
buildings.  On  the  N.E.  side  of  the  city,  a  number  of  large  build- 
ings have  been  preservod.  Towards  the  hill  are  the  remains  of  an 
ancient  City  Wall,  for  the  towers  of  which  the  ancient  sepulchral 
towers  (p.  >347)  were  made  use  of.  It  probably  dates  from  the  time 
of  Justinian  (d.  565),  and  was  erected  for  the  protection  of  the  then 
much  reduced  city  against  the  Arabs.  The  dwelling-houses  of  Pal- 
myra must  have  extended  a  long  distance  towards  the  E.  and  S. 
The  wall  of  Justinian  runs  to  the  S.E.  angle  of  the  Temple  of  the 


■  ■  ^mw^i  m  m%^ 


346 


Route  41. 


PALMYRA. 


Necropolis. 


Sun.  Outside  the  wall,  to  the  N.,  we  observe  a  number  of  ruined 
sepulchral  towers.    Near  the  wall  runs  a  Conduit. 

From  the  end  of  the  street  of  columns ,  we  turn  to  the  first 
Temple  still  preserved  on  this  side  It  is  a  small  square  building  of 
large  hewn  blocks,  with  a  pilaster  at  each  corner.  The  entablature 
and  the  roof  have  fallen.  The  whole  building  is  imbedded  to  a  con- 
siderable depth  in  the  earth.  —  To  the  E.S.E.  of  this  we  next 
come  to  the  remains  of  another  small  Temple  (or  perhaps  a  church, 
as  marked  on  the  Plan).  On  each  side  three  columns  are  still 
standing;  the  capitals  of  five  columns  have  been  thrown  down.  Pro- 
ceeding straight  on  again,  we  reach  a  beautifully  preserved  Temple 
with  a  porch  of  six  columns,  four  of  which  are  in  front.  The  build- 
ing doubtless  rests  on  a  basement,  and  the  fact  that  the  corbels 
projecting  from  the  columns  are  only  20  in.  above  the  ground  shows 
that  the  bases  of  the  columns  must  be  considerably  below  the  sur- 
face of  the  earth.  The  portal  is  somewhat  defaced ;  the  roofed 
windows  at  the  sides' are  better  preserved.  About  300  paces  to  the 
E.  of  this  point  is  a  gigantic  Column,  which,  according  to  a  bilingual 
inscription  (i.e.' Greek  and  Palmyrene)  on  the  S.  side  of  its  base, 
was  erected  in  the  year  450  of  the  Seleucidan  era  (A.D.  139)  in 
honour  of  the  family  of  a  certain  Aailamis. 

The  orchards,  which  are  planted  with  apricot,  pomegranate,  and 
even  palm  trees,  contain  many  antique  fragments.  Passing  round 
the  Temple  of  the  Sun  through  the  gardens  at  the  back,  we  come  to  a 
brook  which  descends  from  the  sulphur  spring  (see  below),  and  is 
sometimes  swollen  to  a  considerable  size.  Following  the  course  of 
this  stream,  we  reach  (^  hr.)  a  Column  similar  to  that  above  men- 
tioned ;  but  this  circuit  perhaps  hardly  repays  the  trouble. 

By  proceeding  towards  the  W.  from  the  Temple  of  the  Sun,  we 
first  reach  a  number  of  Muslim  tombs,  among  which  are  several 
stones  bearing  Palmyrene  inscriptions.  We  descend  to  a  small 
Arabian  mill,  cross  the  steaming  brook  near  it,  and  soon  reach  the 
Spring,  which  gushes  forth  from  a  cavern  on  the  W.  hills.  This,  the 
only  spring  in  Palmyra,  tastes  strongly  of  sulphur  and  has  a  tem- 
perature of  84°  Fahr. ;  it  improves  after  standing  a  little,  and  is 
also  better  about  10  min.  below  the  source.  A  little  below  the 
spring,  on  the  right  bank,  is  an  ancient  Altar  with  an  inscription. 

In  the  plain,  a  little  to  the  S.  of  the  spring,  there  is  also  a  Necro- 
polis, but  most  of  the  tombs  are  covered  with  earth.  The  tombs  are 
hewn  in  the  rock  and  most  of  them  are  vaulted  over,  but  some  are 
open.  The  numerous  sculptures  are  generally  somewhat  rude,  but 
these  works  aff 6 interesting  froio  the  fact  that  they  are  the  product  of 
Greek  art  influenced  by  Oriental  taste,  and  that  they,  with  their 
accompanying  inscriptions,  are  an  important  source  of  information 
with  regard  to  the  history  and  social  life  of  the  Palmyrenes. 

Over  the  whole  slope  of  the  hill  are  scattered  the  so-called 


Sepulchral  Towers. 


PALMYRA. 


41.  Route.    347 


Sepulchral  Towers,  mainly  copied  from  Asiatic  models,  and  doubt- 
less used  as  family -tombs.  These  were  probably  erected  by 
wealthy  inhabitants,  who  were  acquainted  with  the  culture  and  the 
languages  of  the  West,  a  memorial  of  which  is  to  be  found  in  the 
bilingual  inscriptions  which  these  tombs  invariably  bear  on  the  ex- 
terior. In  the  inside  the  names  are  sometimes  in  the  Palmyrene 
character  only. 

The  best-preserved  of  the  sepulchral  towers  are  situated  on  the 
right  bank  of  the  water-course  coming  from  the  W.,  which'is  bounded 
on  the  S.  side  by  the  Jebel  Sitt  Belkls  (Queen  of  Sheba)  and  on  the 
N.  by  the  Jebel  Heseini.  In  front  of  the  second  tomb  lies  a  stone 
with  a  long  Palmyrene  inscription.  The  building  once  had  four 
stories.  The  door  is  covered  with  earth,  but  an  opening  admits  us 
to  a  long  passage.  A  handsome  portal  leads  into  a  chamber  with 
narrow,  but  deep,  recesses  on  each  side,  which  resemble  the 
Jewish  shaft-tombs  (p.  xciv).  The  bier  with  the  body  of  the  deceased 
was  probably  placed  on  the  projecting  ledges.  Among  the  dust 
and  rubbish  accumulated  in  the  interior  lie  remains  of  mummies, 
shreds  of  winding  sheets  soaked  in  tar,  bones,  remains  of  busts, 
and  reliefs  mutilated  by  Muslim  vandalism,  or  injured  by  their  fall 
from  the  ceiling.  Immediately  to  the  left  of  the  entrance  a  staircase 
ascends  to  a  similar  upper  chamber. 

The  next  tomb  towards  the  W.  is  built  of  large  hewn  blocks, 
and  contains  a  double  bust,  the  heads  of  which  are  destroyed.  The 
massive  sarcophagus  in  the  interior,  and  the  well-preserved  ceil- 
ing of  the  first  floor,  are  extremely  interesting.  —  Passing  a  tomb 
buried  in  rubbish,  we  next  reach  another  with  its  lower  floor  im- 
bedded in  the  earth.  In  front  of  the  building  are  statues  and  a 
headless  half- figure  holding  a  branch  in  its  hand.  —  Passing 
another  monument,  we  now  come  to  the  Best -preserved  Tower, 
which  rises  to  a  height  of  about  59  ft.,  and  tapers  towards  the  top. 
The  portal  on  the  N.  side  is  covered  with  a  small  roof.  A  slab 
built  into  the  wall  about  halfway  up  bears  a  bilingual  inscription, 
above  which  is  a  bracket  with  two  winged  figures.  The  bracket 
bears  distinct  traces  of  having  once  been  occupied  by  the  bust  of 
the  most  renowned  occupant  of  the  tomb,  which  was  protected  by 
a  roof  above.  The  interior  of  the  tomb  is  finely  enriched.  The 
chamber  is  27  ft.  long  and  20  ft.  high.  The  recesses  are  separated 
by  Corinthian  pilasters.  At  the  back  of  the  chamber  were  two  rows 
of  busts,  five  in  each,  above  which  is  a  recumbent  figure  in  high 
relief.  The  ceiling,  with  its  panels,  is  particularly  fine,  although  a 
considerable  part  has  fallen ,  and  the  reliefs  are  much  damaged. 
The  blue  and  red  colouring  of  the  stucco  panels  is  still  traceable  at 
places.  The  ceiling  of  the  upper  floor  is  similarly  enriched,  though 
in  many  cases  the  upper  stories  appear  never  to  have  been  completed. 
The  other  tombs  have  wholly  fallen  into  decay.  A  tomb  on 
the  opposite  bank,  called  by  the  Arabs  Kasr  el-Adbd,  which  is 


348   Route  41, 


YAMitiD. 


adorned  with  the  bust  of  a  woman  holding  one  of  her  own  shoulders, 
with  an  inscription  below,  is  especially  striking.  To  the  N.E.  are 
several  caverns,  in  front  of  one  of  which  is  a  sarcophagus  with  buists 
and  garlands. 

Leaving  the  valley  by  the  left  side  of  the  brook,  we  again  coime 
to  Justinian's  wail  (p.  345),  which  here  runs  a  little  way  up  tthe 
hill  and  describes  an  angle.  Within  it,  on  a  raised  terrace  ap- 
proached by  flights  of  steps,  are  the  remains  of  an  important  build- 
ing which  resembles  a  basilica.  A  large  apse  with  niches  and 
roofed  windows  still  exists.  Adjoining  it,  on  the  terrace,  are  nu- 
merous pedestals  of  columns.  A  few  columns  are  still  upright,  but 
they  are  much  disintegrated,  and  their  rich  acanthus  capitals  have 
fallen.  A  large  block  of  stone  here  bears  a  Latin  inscription  in  wh  ich 
ihe  name  of  Diocletian  (d.  313)  is  mentioned.  In  front  of  this  edi- 
fice, in  wild  confusion,  lie  relics  of  other  palatial  buildings. 

The  Muslim  Castle  (Kal'at  Ibn  Ma'n),  on  the  hill  to  the  N.,  is  of 
mediaeval,  or  perhaps  more  recent,  origin,  and  is  said  to  have  been 
built  by  Fakhreddin  (p.  278).  We  reach  it  in  10  min.  and  gain 
the  interior  best  by  climbing  up  at  the  S.W.  corner ;  the  bridge  over 
the  moat  (40  ft.  deep)  on  the  E.  side  consists  of  the  trunks  of  two 
palm-trees  and  is  hardly  passable.  The  highest  pinnacle  commands 
an  admirable  panorama  of  the  Street  of  Columns,  the  Temple  of  the 
Sun,  the  Necropolis,  and  the  desert  surrounded  by  barren  hills. 


From  Palmyra  to  Damascus  via  Nebk  and  Sbidnaya  (ca.  49  hrs.),  a 
more  interesting  route  than  that  via  Jerud  (p.  338).  —  From  Damascus  to 
Karyatein,  beyond  which  we  still  have  a  journey  of  25-26  hrs.,  see  pp.  338,  337. 
About  •/«  hr.  from  Karyatein  we  cross  a  conduit  with  a  number  of  openings 
(perhaps  leading  to  Palmyra)  ;  20  min.,  a  wadi;  1/4  hr.,  a  slight  ascent. 
The  road  skirts  several  salt  lakes,  and  next  passes  (2  hrs.)  Mahtn.  We  ride 
to  the  S.W.  over  a  dreary,  hilly  tract.  Before  us  rise  the  glistening  white 
spurs  of  Anti-Libanus,  and,  some  hours  later,  Deir  'Atiyeh,  and  Hafar  on 
the  right.  Between  Mahin  and  the  point  (5'/2  hrs.)  where  we  reach  the 
road  from  Hafar  to  Deir  'Atiyeh,  no  water  is  to  be  had.  In  »/<  hr.  more 
we  reach  tile  gardens  of  the  large  Christian  and  Muslim  village  of  Deir 
'Atiyeh  (station  of  the  American  mission).  Good  water  by  a  mill  on  the 
right.     We  next  proceed  to  (21/2  hrs.)  — 

Nebk  (Turkish  Telegraph  Oflice;  American  Mission  Station),  a  small 
town  in  a  very  fertile  district,  surrounded  by  well-watered  orchards,  con- 
taining about  2000  inhab.,  including  many  Christians.  The  Greek  Catholic 
Monastery  is  a  very  handsome  building,  and  clean;  the  mud  walls  often 
have  coloured  plates  built  into  them  by  way  of  ornament.  To  the  S.  of 
the  village  are  the  ruins  of  a  large  khan. 

Following  the  telegraph-wires  towards  the  S.W.,  we  pass  (1  hr.)  ex- 
tensive vineyards  and  reach  the  village  of  (25  min.)  Yabrud.  The  place 
is  mentioned  by  Ptolemy  as  Jebruda,  and  a  bishop  of  Yabrfld  is  mentioned 
as  having  been  present  at  the  Council  of  Nicsea.  The  village  is  said  to 
contain  1000  families,  of  which  one-fifth  are  Christian  (Greeks  and  a  few 
Protestants).  The  Greek  Church  is  said  to  have  been  built  by  the  Empress 
Helena.  In  the  interior  it  resembles  an  ancient  basilica;  the  wooden 
ceiling  is  modern.  The  different  kinds  of  stones  of  which  the  outer  wall 
is  composed  on  the  N.  side  indicate  that  the  building  is  of  great  anti- 
quity. To  the  N.  of  the  town  rises  the  Kasr  Berdawil  (Baldwin),  a  cistle 
with  ancient  relics.    A  colonnade  on  the  E.  side  is  half  preserved. 


SEIDNAYA. 


41.  Route. 


349 


Beyond  Yabrud  we  ascend  towards  the  8.,  passing  orchards  to  the 
right,  on  the  hank  of  the  brook,  above  which  rises  a  barren  mountain, 
intersected  by  a  deep  valley.  Beyond  a  meadow  (27  min.)  is  situated  a 
large  spring.  In  the  rocks  to  the  left  are  rock-tombs,  consisting  of  square 
chambers,  with  three  niches  in  each.-  We  pass  several  cisterns.  After  2  hrs. 
a  road  to  the  left  leads  to  the  Muslim  village  of  Bakh'd  (see  below). 
After  13  min.,  a  cistern.  In  4  min.  more  we  diverge  from  the  direct 
route  to  Seidnaya  (by  which  we  may  send  on  the  luggage),  and  descend 
to  the  left  into  the  large,  vine-clad  amphitheatre  of  hills.  In  '/4  hr.  wc 
reach  the  conspicuous  and  picturesquely  situated  Greek  monastery  of  Mdr 
Serkis  (excellent  wine).  A  few  paces  farther  to  the  E.  the  rocks  descend 
precipitously.  We  are  here  on  a  ridge  between  two  deep  ravines. 
Perpendicularly  below  us  lies  the  Christian  village  of  Ma'lula,  the  ancient 
Magluda.  On  the  E.  side  of  the  narrow  gorge  which  runs  to  the  N. 
lies  the  Greek  monastery  of  Mdr  Thekla.  Paths  descend  to  (7  min.)  the 
village  through  gorges,  but  they  are  difficult  for  horses.  At  this  village, 
as  well  as  at  Bakh'd  (see  above),  and  in  the  neighbouring  Jubb  'Adin,  the 
Aramaic  (Syrian)  language,  which,  mingled  with  Hebrew,  prevailed 
throughout  Palestine  and  Syria  in  the  time  of  Christ,  is  still  spoken,  but 
is  gradually  dying  out. 

Quitting  Maflula,  we  follow  the  slope  of  the  hill  to  the  right,  passing 
numerous  reservoirs.  After  50  min.  our  route  is  joined  by  theA  telegraph 
wires  and  road  from  the  mountains  on  the  right  (from  Jubb  fAdin).  On 
the  left  (42  min.)  is  Dawdni,  then  (40  min.)  'Akdbar,  through  which  leads 
the  route  from  Ma'arra  to  Damascus.  We  next  see  (1  hr.)  Telftta  and 
Ma'arrd  on  the  left,  and  (»/,  hr.)  reach  — 

Seidnaya  (accommodation  at  the  convent).  The  large  Greek  Nunnery 
(40  nuns)  stands  on  a  precipitous  rock,  the  top  of  which  is  gained  by 
flights  of  steps.  It  is  said  to  be  very  ancient,  but,  like  the  church,  has 
been  recently  restored.  The  Iconosterium  contains  old  pictures,  one  of 
which  is  said  to  be  a  miracle-working  Madonna.  On  the  E.  side  of  the 
rock  are  ancient  tombs.  Higher  up,  among  the  mountains,  is  the  monastery 
Mdr  Jirjis.  Below  the  convent  is  a  curious  square  building,  now  in  pos- 
session of  the  United  Greeks,  known  as  Mdr  Butrus  er-Rustil  (Apostle 
Peter).  This,  which  is  possibly  a  tomb  of  the  Roman  period,  stands  on 
a  basement  of  three  steps,  and  is  93/4  yds.  square  and  26  ft.  high.  Each 
wall  consists  of  ten  courses  of  finely  hewn  stones.  On  the  S.  side  is  a 
small  door  surrounded  by  a  moulding.  The  vaulted  interior  is  unadorned, 
except  with  a  few  modern  pictures.  We  may  ascend  to  the  roof  for  the 
sake  of  the  view. 

There  are  two  routes  from  Seidnaya  to  Damascus.  One  crosses  the 
plain,  descends  the  hill,  and  leads  through  a  defile  in  about  l8/«  hr.  to 
ifenin.  The  other  leads  via.  Mararra.  We  descend  into  the  valley  (12  min.), 
and  in  22  min.  reach  Ma'arrd,  with  an  excellent  spring.  Following  the 
telegraph,  we  ascend  to  the  top  of  the  hill  (35  min.);  35  min.,  a  reservoir. 
From  the  right  (50  min.)  a  mountain-path  descends  to  our  road.  We 
pass  (14  min.)  the  orchards  of  Et-Tell,  and  (27  min.)  a  reservoir.  We  begin 
(5  min.)  to  descend  rapidly,  (22  min.)  pass  another  reservoir,  and  (13  min.) 
skirt  the  gardens  of  Berzeli  (p.  319).  On  the  left  we  see  (18  min.)  Abtin, 
and  then  (20  min.)  join  the  Aleppo  road.  In  25  min.  more  we  reach  the 
Bdb  TUmd  (p.  312).  

From  Palmyra  to  Riblaii,  ca.  36>/a  hrs.  —  From  Palmyra  to  (22i/a  hrs.) 
Karyatein,  see  p.  339.  From  Karyatein  the  route  leads  to  the  N.W. 
in  3  hrs.  to  the  Sluslim  village  o'f  Ilawdrin  (Roman  castle  and  basilica  with 
some  other  relics);  then  to  (3  hrs.)  Sadad,  a  village  occupied  by  Jacobite 
Christians,  the  ancient  Zedad  (Numbers  xxxiv.  8;  Ezek.  xlvii.  15),  on 
the  N.  frontier  of  the  Israelites.  In  4  hrs.  more  we  reach  Hasyd,  on  the 
caravan-road  from  Horns  to  Damascus,  whence  we  reach  Zard'a  in  3  hrs., 
and  Biblah  (p.  365),  near'the  Ba'albek  and  Horns  Railway,  in, 40  min.  more. 


350  Route  41. 


SUKNEH. 


From  Palmira  to  Ba'albek.  —  To  Yabrud,  see  p.  348.  From  Yabrud 
to  Ba'albek,  12  hrs.  Diverging  to  the  right  at  the  spring  beyond  Yabrud 
we  reach  (2  hrs.)  Mafarra  (p.  349).  We  skirt  the  N.  side  of  the  Rd»  el-Fai 
('head  of  a  shadow'),  from  which  we  have  a  fine  view.  On  the  roadside 
are  some  Greek  inscriptions,  badly  preserved.  The  descent  to  Ba'albck  is 
steep  and  stony.  —  Ba'albek,  see  p.  320. 

From  Palmyra  to  Bd-Deik,  131  M.  The  journey  occupies  5  days  and 
is  somewhat  fatiguing.  The  route  traverses  the  Syrian  Desert,  passing 
(151/2  M.)  Erek,  (llfr/s  M.)  Sukneh,  with  6000  inhab.  and  warm  springs  im- 
pregnated with  sulphur,  and  (56  M.)  Ghab&ghib,  near  which  lies  the  military 
post  (Kishla)  Bir  el-Jedid,  with  a  mineral  spring.  —  Ed-Deir,  see  p.  412. 


V.  NORTHERN  SYRIA. 


4;; 


46 


47 


ute  Page 

.   From  Tripoli  to  El-Ladikiyeh  by  the  Coast 851 

From  El-Ladikiyeh  to  Antioch 357 

From  Urdeh   to  Es -Suweidiyeh  (Seleueia)   via  the  Jebel 

el-Akrar 357 

From  Es-Suweidiyeh  to  Antioch 360 

From  Beirut  to  Alexandretta  and  Mersina  by  Sea    .    .  360 

From  Mersina  to  Soli 362 

From  Mersina  to  Tarsus  and  Adana 362 

From  Alexandretta  to  Aleppo 362 

Railway  from  Reyak  (Beirut,  Damascus)  to  Horns  and 

Hama. 364 

From  Hama  to  Aleppo 369 

From  Hama   to   Biha   via  Kal'at  el-Mudik  (Apamea)   and 

El-Bara    ..."..-.    '.    .    ..."  ." 370 

From  Riha  to  Dana  via  the  Jebel  el-A'la 372 

Aleppo 373 

From  Aleppo  to  Kinnearin 377 

From  Aleppo  to  Karat  Sim'an 377 

From  Kalrat  Sim'an  to  Turmanin 3S1 

From  Aleppo  to  Alexandretta  via  Antioch 381 

From  Antioch  to  Beit  el-Ma  (Daphne) 387 


42.  From  Tripoli  to  El-Ladikiyeh  by  the  Coast. 

261/2  hrs.  —  From  Beirut  to  Tripoli,  see  pp.  335-333. 

Tripoli,  see  p.  331.  —  To  the  N.  of  Tripoli  the  coast  forms  a 
large  bay  (Jun  'Akkdr),  while  the  chain  of  Lebanon  takes  the  name 
of  Jebel  'Akkdr  and  approaches  its  N.  extremity.  The  well-cultivated 
plain  of  the  coast  is  called  the  Juniyeh  (Arab,  'angle,  comer').  — 
Leaving  Tripoli,  we  ride  along  the  carriage-road  to  Horns  as  far  as 
(3/4  hr. )  the  Kubbet  el-Bedddwi,  a  dervish  monastery,  with  an  ex- 
cellent spring  near  it,  containing  fish  (Capoeta  fratercula)  which 
are  regarded  as  sacred.  We  next  cross  (ft1  fa  M.)  the  Nahr  el-Bdrid 
('cold  river'),  which  is  named  Bruttus  in  the  ancient  Itinerarium 
Hierosolymitanum  (dating  from  A.D.  333).  On  the  S.  bank  are  the 
ruins  of  Orthosia  (1  Mace.  xv.  37);  on  the  opposite  side  is  a  khan. 
We  cross  (33/4  M.)  the  Nahr  'Arkd  by  a  bridge;  2i/2  M.,  Kulei'dt 
(left);  IY2  M.,  bridge  over  the  Nahr  'Akkdr.  We  now  leave  the 
highroad  and,  riding  to  the  left,  skirt  the  sea  in  a  N.  direction;  we 
next  reach  ( lJ/4  hr.)  the  bridge  over  the  Nahr  el-Keblr  ('the  great 
river').  This  river,  the  Eleutheros  of  antiquity  (p.  264),  separates 
the  Lebanon  district  from  the  Nosairiyeh  Mts.,  the  Mons  Bargylus 
of  the  ancients.  About  25  inin.  farther  to  the  N.  we  observe  the 
village  of  Sumra,  the  ancient  Simyros.  This  may  have  been  the 
territory  of  the  Zemarites  (Gen.  x.  18;  see  p.  354).  In  1  hr.  more 
we  cross  the  Nahr  el-Abrash  ('the  speckled  river'). 

BABUEKiE's  Palestine  and  Syria.    4th  Edit.  22 


■WW       BJ  ■  HffiJIEH 


352 


7?oi/?e  -/2. 


MARATHUS. 


From  Tripoli 


To  the  right,  on  the  hills  ahove  us,  lies  the  district  of  Sdfitd,  the 
principal  place  in  which,  Burj  Sdfitd,  possesses  a  large  castle  of  the  time 
of  the  Crusades,  but  is  not  easily  reached  owing  to  the  unsafe  state  of 
the  country.  Nearer  the  sea,  on  the  slope  of  the  Safita  mountains,  lies 
Kal'alYahmdr  (about  l'/zhr.  to  theS.  of  Amrit),  another  handsome  castle  from 
the  Crusaders1  period,  though  an  inscription  seems  to  mention  Constantine. 

In  about  l1/*  hr.  from  the  Nahr  el-Abrash  we  reach  the  Nahr  el- 
Kibleh  '(southern  brook');  thence  we  next  pass  the  'Ain  el-Haiy&t 
('snake  spring' ;  see  below)  and  reach  ('/4  hr.)  the  Nahr  Amrit.  The 
last-named  stream  is  joined  a  little  above  its  mouth  by  the  Kahr 
el-Kibleh,  which  turns  to  the  N.  near  the  sea.  On  both  streams, 
nearly  opposite  the  islands  of  Hebles,  to  the  S.W..  and  Aradus.  to 
the  N.W.  (now  Rudd,  see  p.  354),  lay  the  ancient  town  of  — 

Marathus.  —  The  name  of  Marathut  is  preserved  in  Amrit.  The  town 
was  founded  by  the  Arvadites  (p.  353)  and  was  ruled  over  by  the  King  of 
Aradus.  When  visited  by  Alexander  it  was  a  large  and  prosperous  place. 
In  B.C.  219  Marathus  became  independent  of  Aradus,  and  in  148  the  Ar- 
vadites attempted  to  destroy  the  town.  During  the  Roman  period  it  had 
ceased  to  be  a  place  of  any  importance.  The  ruins  of  Marathus  date 
very  probably  from  the  Phoenician  period. 

The  first  Remains  of  the  Ancient  JIaratiius  are  observed  to  the  right 
of  the  road,  about  10  min.  before  we  cross  the  Nahr  el-Kibleh  (see  above). 
The  first  object  of  interest  is  a  Rock  Tomb.  About  165  yds.  to  the  N.  of 
it  is  another  and  larger  tomb,  called  the  I/ajar  el-Hubld  ('stone  of  the 
pregnant  woman'),  with  remains  of  a  pyramid  near  it.  We  descend  into 
a  cavern,  the  walls  of  which  taper  upwards.  The  tomb  consists  of  three 
chambers  with  deep  niches.  —  About  5  min.  to  the  N.W.  of  this  tomb,  to 
the  left  of  the  road,  rises  a  large  cubical  mass  of  rock.  A  similar  cube  of 
rock,  called  Burj  el-Bezzdk  ('snails'  tower1),  is  situated  among  the  bushes, 
110  yds.  to  the  W.N.W. '  Two  entrances  (on  the  E.  and  S.  sides  respec- 
tively) lead  into  a  somewhat  rude  chamber;  and  a  staircase  ascends  to 
the  top  of  the  cube,  which  is  about  16  ft.  in  height,  and  was  probably 
surmounted  by  a  pyramid.  On  the  facade  are  seen  the  holes  where  beams, 
probably  belonging  to  a  porch,  were  once  inserted.  In  about  5  min.  more 
we  reach  the  Nahr  el-Kibleh.  The  road  leads  towards  the  N.W.  to  the 
(9  min.)  fAin  el-Haiyat  (see  above).  Near  the  spring  are  the  insignificant 
remains  of  two  small   Temples,  in  the  Egyptian  style. 

The  best-preserved  Tombs  of  Amrit  are  situated  opposite,  and  to  the 
E.  of,  the  serpents1  spring,  about  !)  min.  distant,  and  to  the  right  of  the 
road,  on  the  hills  running  parallel  with  the  shore.  We  observe  here 
several  monuments  of  the  kind  called  by  the  Arabs  El-Maghdzil  ('spindles1). 
The  northernmost  of  these  consists  of  a  somewhat  rude  and  unfinished 
cubic  pedestal,  bearing  a  monolithic  cylinder,  13  ft.  in  height,  which  is 
surmounted  by  a  small  pentagonal  pyramid.  The  second  monument, 
61/2  yds.  distant,  is  much  more  carefully  executed.  The  circular  pedestal 
of  this  monument  is  adorned  with  four  rude  and  perhaps  unfinished  figures 
of  lions.  On  this  pedestal  rises  a  monolithic  cylinder,  61/2  ft.  high,  with 
a  rounded  summit.  Both  the  lower  and  upper  part  of  the  cylinder  are 
adorned  with  indented  moulding  and  steps  running  round  it.  —  A  third 
monument  of  simpler  character  is  situated  about  2  min.  to  the  S.E.  of 
these  two.  Above  the  cube  is  a  hollow  moulding,  and  above  the  latter 
rises  a  second  and  smaller  cubical  block  which  once  bore  a  pyramid. 
The  entrance  to  the  staircase  which  descends  into  the  tomb-cavern  below 
the  monument  is  covered  with  a  large,  well-hewn  block  of  stone. 

About  5  min.  to  the  N.  of  this  necropolis  stands  a  large  House,  hewn 
in  the  rock.  The  W.  facade  is  33  yds.  long;  the  walls  are  about  19  ft.  in 
height  and  21/2  ft.  in  thickness.  The  interior  of  the  house  was  once  divided 
by  walls  hewn  out  of  the  rock  into  three  chambers.  The  N.  side  is  bounded 
by  a  wall  built  of  hewn  stones,  and  so  is  part  of  the  S.  side  also. 


to  El-LMikhjeh. 


TARTUS. 


42.  Route.    353 


We  now  proceed  to  the  N.W.  from  this  house  to  the  (5  min.)  Nahr 
Amrit  (p.  352),  before  reaching  which  we  perceive  the  shrine  of  El-Ma'bed 
on  the  left.  This  consists  of  a  court,  52  yds.  broad  and  60  yds.  long,  hewn 
in  the  rock.  The  S.  wall  of  the  court  is  now  about  16  ft.  high.  The 
N.  (front)  side  was  probably  once  closed  by  a  wall  of  hewn  stones,  with 
gateways,  where  a  hedge  now  stands.  Eemains  of  pillars  near  the  corners 
of  the  court  appear  to  indicate  that  the  walls  were  flanked  by  corridors. 
In  the  middle  of  the  quadrangle  stands  a  mass  of  rock,  about  10  ft.  high 
and  18  ft.  square,  serving  as  a  basement  for  the  cella,  which  is  open 
towards  the  N.  in  the  direction  of  the  valley,  and  consists  of  four  hewn 
blocks  and  a  monolithic  roof,  vaulted  inside  and  projecting  in  front.  (The 
cella  was  probably  once  entered  by  a  porch.)  A  simple  frieze  and  cornice 
form  the  only  decoration  of  the  building.  On  each  side  are  traces  of  stairs. 
The  basement  seems  to  have  stood  in  water  for  a  long  period.  On  the 
E.  side  of  the  court  is  a  spring,  and  the  arrangements  may  possibly  have 
been  such  that  the  cella  alone  was  intended  to  appear  above  water. 

Opposite  El-Ma'bed,  on  the  N.  (right)  bank  of  the  brook,  are  remains 
of  similar  temples  and  other  buildings.  To  the  right,  a  little  farther  up, 
are  the  ruins  of  a  large  Stadium,  137  yds.  long  and  33  yds.  wide.  The 
arena  is  enclosed  by  ten  tiers  of  seats,  all  of  which  are  hewn  in  the  rock 
on  the  N.  side,  while  half  of  them  on  the  S.  side  are  constructed  of  hewn 
stones.     The  stadium  was  bounded  on  the  E.  by  an  amphitheatre. 

To  the  N.W.  of  Amrit  we  perceive  the  island  of  Ruad  (p.  354)  to 
the  left.  We  next  reach  (40  min.)  the  NahrOhamkeh  and  (20 min.)  — 

Tartus  (Tortosa;  Turkish  Telegraph  Office).  —  History.  It  is 
recorded  that  Aradus,  on  the  small  island  of  the  same  name  now  called 
Ruad  (p.  354),  was  founded  by  refugees  from  Sidon,  but  it  is  probable 
that  this  was  the  resuscitation  of  a  more  ancient  town.  Aradus  often 
appears  as  a  tributary  town  in  the  Assyrian  chronicles.  In  the  Persian 
period  Aradus  is  mentioned  as  the  third  of  the  towns  of  the  Phoenician 
League.  The  Arvadites,  or  Aradians,  were  famed  as  skilful  mariners 
and  brave  soldiers  (Ezek.  xxvii.  8,  11).  The  little  island,  however,  was 
merely  their  place  of  origin  and  headquarters.  The  territory  subject 
to  them  lay  on  the  mainland,  their  colonies  being  Paltus,  Balanea,  Karne, 
Enhydra  (between  Tartus  and  Amrit),  and  Marathus  (p.  352).  The  island 
derived  its  supply  of  water  from  the  mainland,  but  in  time  of  war  could 
obtain  water  from  fresh  springs  in  the  sea,  which  still  exist.  The  Aradians 
were  remarkable  for  their  commercial  enterprise ;  their  chief  place  of 
business  and  seaport  was  at  Karne  (now  Karnun ;  p.  354),  about  3  M.  to  the 
N.  of  Aradus.  King  Strato  of  Aradus,  with  the  whole  of  his  dominions, 
which  appear  to  have  extended  as  far  as  the  Orontes,  at  length  surrendered 
to  Alexander  the  Great.  At  a  later  period  Aradus  was  surpassed  in  im- 
portance by  its  mainland  colony  Anlaradus.  This  town  is  mentioned  for 
the  first  time  by  Ptolemy  (2nd  cent.  A.D.),  after  whose  time  the  two 
towns  are  frequently  named.  In  346  Constantine  caused  Antaradus  to  be 
rebuilt,  and  for  a  time  it  was  called  Constantina.  In  ttie  middle  ages  An- 
taradus was  named  Tortosa.  During  the  Crusades  it  was  an  important 
place,  and  belonged  to  the  county  of  Tripoli.  In  1188  the  town  was  taken 
by  Saladin,  but  he  succeeded  in  capturing  one  of  the  castles  only.  In 
1291  Tortosa,  which  was  defended  by  the  Templars,  and  was  the  last 
place  held  by  the  Christians  in  Syria,  was  finally  taken  by  the  Muslims. 

The  Town  Walls  of  Tartus  are  ahout  2000  yds.  in  circuit,  and 
on  the  S.  side  are  protected  hy  a  moat.  The  present  inhahitants 
live  within  the  walls  of  the  old  Castle,  which  dates  from  the  time 
of  the  Crusades,  though  ancient  materials  were  probably  used  in  its 
construction.  From  N.  to  S.  the  castle  is  165  yds.  in  length.  It  is 
enclosed  on  all  sides,  except  that  next  the  sea,  hy  a  double  wall  of 
drafted  blocks,  and  by  double  moats  hewn  in  the  rock.    The  prin- 

22* 


&'&$&&  ^'ifi  *'ifcffi  f^^  '•-?■'$-*'&' ^-    B9G9SI 


354 


Route  42. 


RUAD. 


From  Tripoli 


cipal  entrance  is  on  the  N.E.  side,  next  the  sea,  where  the  moat 
was  formerly  crossed  by  a  bridge.  Within  the  gateway  Tises  a  lofty 
Gothic  corridor  with  a  stone  roof.  In  the  inner  court  of  the  castle 
is  a  spacious  hall,  51  yds.  long  and  18  yds.  wide,  the  vaulted  roof 
of  which  is  borne  by  Ave  columns  of  red  granite  with  capitals  of 
Corinthian  character.  One  of  the  capitals  represents  the  head  of  a 
crowned  monarch.    Over  one  of  the  windows  is  the  relief  of  a  lamb. 

On  the  8.E.  side  of  the  town  stands  a  handsome  Crusaders' 
Church  (44  by  30  yds.).  The  aisles  are  separated  from  the  nave  by 
slender  pillars  with  capitals  of  Corinthian  tendency.  The  W.  facade 
has  a  pointed  and  richly  ornamented  portal,  with  three  windows 
above  it.  At  the  W.  ends  of  the  aisles  are  pointed  windows.  The 
lateral  apses  are  enclosed  within  square  towers  rising  to  the  height 
of  the  roof.  The  roof  of  the  church  consists  of  tapered  barrel-vaulting, 
in  the  lower  part  of  which  rectangular  windows  are  introduced. 

The  island  of  Ruad  (comp.  p.  353)  may  be  reached  by  boat  from  Tar- 
tus  in  less  than  an  hour.  The  island,  which  commands  a  charming  view, 
lies  about,  H/2  M.  from  .the  mainland,  and  consists  of  an  irregular  ridge  of 
rock,  about  880  yds.  long  and  550  yds.  broad,  on  which  layers  of  sand 
have  been  deposited.  The  modern  village  contains  2-3000  inhab.,  who  are 
chiefly  sailors  and  sponge-fishers.  A  broad  wall,  skirting  the  artificially 
hewn  margin  of  the  island,  once  enclosed  the  whole  of  it,  except  on  the 
E.  side,  where  the  harbour  lay  in  the  direction  of  the  mainland.  Many 
remains  of  columns  are  still  to  be  seen  near  the  harbour  (comp.  p.  xcvii). 
The  most  extensive  remains  of  the  Town  Walls  are  on  the  W.  side,  where 
they  are  still  28-38  ft.  in  height.  The  highest  point  in  the  island  is  crowned 
with  a  large  Saracenic  Cattle,  with  substructions  hewn  in  the  rock.  A 
second  castle  lay  near  the  harbour.  —  The  island  contains  several  hand- 
some cisterns,  and  on  the  S.  8ide  are  remains  of  rock-hewn  dwellings  with 
niches  for  lamps,  etc. 

To  the  N.  of  Tartus  we  reach  (10  min.)  the  poor  harbour.  A  build- 
ing on  a  rock  near  it  was  probably  used  as  a  warehouse  during  the 
Crusaders'  period.  In  the  vicinity  are  several  rock-tombs.  From  the 
harbour  we  reach  (50  min.)  KarnUn,  the  ancient  Karne  (p.  353); 
(10  min.)  Nahr  el-Husein ;  (10  min.)  'Ain  et-Tin  ('fig  spring*); 
(25  min.)  Khirbet  Nastf,  with  numerous  ruins;  (1/2  hr.)  Tell  Bu- 
slreh ;  and  (20  min.)  Zemreh  (Zemarites  are  mentioned  Gen.  x.  18, 
but  see  p.  351).  After  35  min.  more  we  cross  the  brook  Marakia, 
called  after  an  ancient  place  of  that  name.  In  the  middle  ages  the 
Franks  erected  a  huge  seven  -  storied  tower  in  the  sea  opposite 
Marakia,  but  in  1285  they  were  compelled  to  surrender  it  to  the 
Muslims.  In  1  hr.  10  min.  we  come  to  'Ain  el-Frenj,  in  1  hr.  more 
to  the  Nahr  el-B6s,  and  in  2l/s  hrs.  to  — 

Baniyas,  which  since  ca.  1885  has  been  the  seat  of  the  Kaimma- 
kam  of  the  Kada  el-MeTkab  (p.  355). 

B&niy&s  is  the  Balanaia  of  Strabo  and  other  ancient  geographers.  An 
Episcopofl  Balaneornm  i«  mentioned  as  having  attended  tho  Connci]  of 
Nicaa.  In  the  middle  ages  the  Muslims  called  the  place  Bulunyds,  and 
the  Franks  Valania,  Knights  of  St.  John  resided  here.  The  river  of 
Valania  once  formed  the  boundary  between  the  kingdom  of  Jerusalem 
and  the  principality  of  Antioch. 

The  town  is  charmingly  situated  on  the  N.  side  of  the  stream, 


to  El-Lddiklyeh. 


JEBELEH. 


42.  Route. 


355 


but  is  now  deserted.  On  the  E.  side  of  it  are  still  to  be  seen  the 
foundation-walls  of  an  old  church,  and  near  the  shore  a  number  of 
granite  columns  and  remains  of  a  castle. 

About  i1kM.  inland  from  Baniyas  lies  El-Merkab  ('the  watch-tower'), 
the  capital  (1500  inhab.)  down  to  1885  of  the  Kada*  which  is  chiefly  inhab- 
ited by  Nosairiyeh.  The  very  extensive  Cattle  occupies  the  summit  of  a 
trap  rock,  which  rises  to  a  height  of  nearly  1000  ft.  above  the  sea-level.  On 
the  S.  side  a  deep  moat  has  been  hewn  in  the  rock,  and  adjoining  it  rises 
a  tower  66  ft.  in  height,  with  walls  of  basaltic  blocks  16  ft.  in  thickness. 
The  tower  contains  a  Gothic  chapel,  now  a  mosque.  The  fortress  could 
accommodate  2000  families  and  1000  horses.  The  vast  cistern  outside  the 
castle  was  formerly  supplied  with  water  from  the  hills  to  the  E.  It  is  not 
known  by  whom  this  castle  was  erected.  In  the  middle  ages  it  was  called 
the  Castrum  Merghatum,  and  was  a  place  of  great  importance.  In  1285  it 
was  captured  from  the  Hospitallers  by  Sultan  Kilawun  of  Egypt. 

Proceeding  from  Baniyas,  we  next  reach  (1  hr.)  the  river  Jdbar, 
(20  min.)  the  Nahr  Huseisdn ,  and  (3/4  hr.)  the  Nahr  es-Sinn  or 
Nahr  el-Milk  (called  Badas  by  Strabo,  and  supposed  to  have  some 
connection  with  the  Sinites,  Gen.  x.  17).  To  the  S.  of  the  river 
we  perceive  extensive  heaps  of  ruins,  including  several  granite 
columns.  These  ruins  are  named  Beldeh,  and  correspond  with  the 
ancient  Paltus.  A  little  farther  to  the  N.  lies  the  ancient  harbour, 
which  was  artificially  sheltered.  From  the  river  a  canal  was  con- 
ducted towards  the  E.  —  From  the  Nahr  es-Sinn  we  ride  in  35  min. 
to  the  Nahr  Sukdt,  which  empties  itself  into  a  pretty  bay  on  which 
lie  extensive  ruins.  On  theN.E.  side  rises  the  Tell  Sukdt,  bearing 
the  ruins  of  a  castle.  In  1  hr.  we  reach  the  Nahr  'Aln  Burghuz,  and 
in  !/o  hr.  more  — 

Jebeleh  (Turkish  Telegraph  Station),  a  poor  Muslim  village  with 
3000  inhab.,  situated  in  a  fertile  plain  and  the  chief  place  of  a 
Kada  (p.  Ivii). 

Jebeleh  answers  to  the  ancient  Qabala.  In  639-640,  when  the  Muslims 
conquered  this  district,  a  fortress  of  the  Byzantines  stood  here,  and  ad- 
joining it  a  second  castle  was  built  by  Khalif  Mn'awiya.  Jebeleh  wa8 
captured  by  the  Byzantines  in  969,  but  retaken  by  the  Bluslims  in  1081. 
In  1109  the  Crusaders  took  the  place,  and  in  1189  it  was  finally  captured 
by  Saladin. 

The  small  harbour  is  protected  by  piers  of  stones,  some  of  which 
are  1 1  ft.  long.  On  the  shore  are  seen  several  granite  columns,  obvi- 
ously belonging  to  some  fine  old  building.  Near  the  coast  are  a  num- 
ber of  rock-tombs,  some  of  which  seem  to  have  been  used  as  Chris- 
tian chapels.  To  the  N.  of  the  town  is  a  large  Roman  Theatre,  which 
has  a  radius  of  49  yds.  The  vaults  on  which  the  tiers  of  seats  rest- 
ed still  exist,  and  have  17  entrances,  flanked  by  massive  pillars. 
The  arena  and  part  of  the  tiers  of  seats  are  now  covered  with  houses. 
—  The  Mosque  of  Sultan  Ibrdlum  was  originally  a  church. 

Our  route  now  leads  towards  the  N.,  through  a  bleak  district 
frequently  infested  by  Nosairiyeh  robbers,  to  (Jfe  hr.)  the  Nahr  Ru- 
maileh  and  (1  hr.)  the  Nahr  Rus,  over  which  there  is  a  dilapidated 
ancient  bridge.  To  the  N.  rises  a  hill  covered  with  the  ruins  of  an 
extensive  castle.    After  1  hr.  we  reach  the  Nahr  Mudlyukeh,  in 


$3^  &&$•'$$.    ^l^i^'vT  HHH  SPPlwl 


356   Route  42. 


EL-LADIKIYEH. 


From  Tripoli 


i/2  hr.  the  Nahr  Sndbar,  and  in  1  hr.  more  the  Nahr  el-Keblr  ('great 
river').     We  now  turn  to  the  W.,  and  in  1  hr.  reach  — 

El-LS.dik.iyeh.  —  International  Telegraph  Office.  —  Vice-Consuls. 
British  and  Austrian,  Nicholat  Vitali;  Italian,  A.  Gups;   Russian,  Morcos. 

In  ancient  times  El-LAdiktyeh  was  the  Phoenician  Ramilha,  but  is 
better  known  by  its  later  name  of  Laodicea,  as  it  was  called  when  rebuilt, 
by  Seleucus  Nicatur,  who  founded  six  towns  of  that  name  in  honour 
of  his  mother  Laodice.  This  Laodicea  {not  the  Laodicea  of  Kev.  iii.  14) 
was  distinguished  by  the  epithet  'ad  Mare'.  It  was  advantageously  situated, 
facing  the  island  of  Cyprus,  and  possessed  a  good  harbour  and  productive 
vineyards.  Antony  conferred  on  the  town  the  privileges  of  independence 
and  immunity  from  taxation.  Pescennius  Niger,  the  rival  of  Septimius 
Severus,  devastated  the  town,  but  it  was  afterwards  embellished  by  Severus 
(193-211).  During  the  Christian  period  Laodicea  prospered  as  the  seaport 
of  Antioch.  On  the  approach  of  the  Crusaders  it  was  in  the  possession 
of  the  Byzantine  emperors.  In  1102  the  place  was  captured  'by  Tancred, 
and  in  1170  destroyed  by  an  earthquake.  In  1188  it  was  taken  and  destroyed 
by  Saladin.  Many  Europeans  were  allowed  to  stay  here  on  payment  of 
tribute.  Under  the  protection  of  the  Count  of  Tripoli  the  place  began 
again  to  prosper.  In  1287,  however,  it  was  again  destroyed  by  a  violent 
earthquake,  after  which  Sultan  Kilawun  finally  put  an  end  to  the  Christian 
supremacy  and  caused  the  castle  to  be  razed.  —  See  Hartmann,  Das  Liwa 
el-Ladkije,  in  ZDPV.  xiv.  151  et  seq. 

El-Ladikiyeh,  or  Latakia,  is  picturesquely  situated  H/2M.  from 
the  sea,  in  a  fertile  plain,  where  water  is  found  in  abundance  a 
little  below  the  surface.  The  town  contains  about  22,000  inhab., 
about  12,000  of  whom  are  Muslims,  6600  Orthodox  Greeks,  1600 
Gregorian  Armenians,  1200  Maronites,  300  Latins,  and  300  Pro- 
testants. It  is  the  seat  of  a  Mutesarrif  and  of  a  Greek  bishop.  An 
American  missionary-station  is  established  here,  and  there  are  also 
a  convent  and  school  of  the  Freres  des  Ecoles  Chretiennes.  'Latakia' 
tobacco  (p.  xxix)  is  extensively  cultivated  in  the  environs,  and  the 
silk -culture  and  sponge-fishery  are  also  carried  on.  The  annual 
exports  are  valued  at  8,000,000  fr.;  the  imports  at  1,500,000  fr. 

The  present  squalid  and  poverty-stricken  town  lies  to  the  E.  of 
the  ancient  town.  The  low  hills  to  the  S.  probably  indicate  the 
direction  of  the  ancient  city-walls.  To  the  N.  a  double  wall  is  still 
traceable.  Between  these  walls  lie  extensive  Tock-tombs.  To  the 
N.  of  the  outer  N.  wall  are  situated  the  remains  of  a  church.  On 
the  E.  side  runs  a  conduit  in  the  direction  of  the  town.  To  the 
S.E.  probably  once  rose  a  castle,  where  the  mosque  now  stands.  On 
the  same  side  is  a  kind  of  Triumphal  Arch  dating  perhaps  from  tho 
time  of  Septimius  Severus.  It  is  about  16  yds.  square.  On  each 
side  is  an  arch  (now  built  up),  resting  on  a  pilaster.  The  large  arch 
in  front  is  flanked  by  two  corner-columns,  bearing  a  handsome 
entablature,  above  which  rises  a  projecting  pediment.  Over  the 
latter  rises  a  kind  of  attic  story,  which  was  adorned  with  a  bas- 
relief  representing  the  implements  of  war.  Near  this  monument  stand 
four  Corinthian  columns  with  handsome  entablature,  which  perhaps 
once  belonged  to  the  colonnade  of  a  temple.  —  The  road  from  the 
town  to  the  small  Harbour,  situated  l1^  M.  to  the  W.,  leads  through 
beautiful  olive-groves.  Near  the  harbour  are  several  cafe's,  a  custom- 


to  El-Ladikhjeh.         JEBEL  EL-AKRA' 


42.  Route. 


357 


house,  the  quarantine-station,  and  other  buildings.  The  coast  forms 
a  hay  looking  to  the  S.,  while  the  'Promontory  of  Ladikiyeh'  extends 
far  into  the  sea  on  the  N.  side.  The  entrance  to  the  harbour  is 
narrow,  being  contracted  by  the  ruins  of  a  castle  which  was  once 
connected  with  the  mainland  by  an  embankment  on  the  N.E.  side. 
Numerous  ancient  columns  are  immured  in  the  walls.  To  the  E. 
there  seems  to  have  once  been  another  small  square  basin. 


From  El-Ladikiyeh  to  Antioch. 

Dibect  Route,  223/«  hrs.  Escort  desirable.  —  We  at  first  ride  along 
the  plain  of  the  coast  towards  the  N.  to  (2'/2  hrs.)  the  Nosairiyeh  village 
of  Kusd?iu,  and  then  (2  hrs.)  cross  the  Nahr  el-' Arab  (which  separates  the 
regions  where  Arabic  and  Turkish  are  spoken)  to  the  Wddi  Kandil.  We 
now  follow  this  valley,  in  which  we  observe  on  the  right  the  Turkish 
villages  of  Kandiljik  and  Bellurdn,  and  on  the  left  those  of  El-Ku/r, 
Kirjali,  Kav'dineh,  and  Kainarjik.  After  ascending  this  valley  for  2  hrs., 
we  leave  it  and  ascend  to  (I1/*  hr.)  the  village  of  Kestel  el-Ma'af.  We 
next  ascend  to  (2  hrs.)  the  top  of  the  watershed  between  the  Nahr  el- 
Kebir  (p.  351),  and  the  streams  which  descend  to  the  coast.  We  are  now 
in  the  district  of  Bdpir,  the  W.  part  of  which  is  called  El-Bujdk,  and 
the  E.  part  Jebel  el-Akrdd  (Kurd  Bits.).  These  regions  are  inhabited  by 
Turks  and  Nosairiyeh.  We  descend  in  2  hrs.  more  to  the  river  Kwathi 
(tributary  of  the  Nahr  el-Kebir),  cross  it,  and  ascend  to  (}/t  hr.)' Urdeh, 
at  the  E.  foot  of  the  Jebel  el-Akrar  (see  below).  About  1  hr.  farther 
on  we  reach  a  valley  which  we  follow  for  1  hr.  (numerous  plane  trees), 
beyond  which  the  hills  are  traversed  to  (3  hrs.)  the  village  of  Sheikh  Koi  (V). 
We  reach  Beit  el-Md  (Daphne)  in  4  hrs.  more.    Thence  to  Antioch,  see  p.  387. 

Via  the  Jebei,  el-Akka'  and  Es-Su\veid!yeh  (Seleuoia),  28  hrs.  — 
From  LadikJyeh  to  Urdeh  (12  hrs.),  see  above.  The  route  from  Urdeh  to 
Es-Suweidlyeh  (11  hrs.)  leads  to  (2  hrs.)  the  large  Armenian  village  of 
Kesdb  (with  a  Protestant  community),  which  lies  on  the  E.  slope  of  the 
Jebel  el-Akraf,  in  a  very  fertile  region.  As  in  Armenia,  the  houses  here 
are  half  under  ground.  The  ascent  of  the  mountain  (ca.  3  hrs.)  from  this 
point  forms  an  interesting  excursion.  After  1  hr.  we  pass  a  spring. 
Beyond  this  we  must  proceed  on  foot,  sending  the  horses  round  to  await 
our  descent  on  the  N.  side  of  the  hill.  Farther  up  are  pines  and  even 
cedars,  as  well  as  a  luxuriant  growth  of  various  herbs.  —  The  Jebel 
el-Akrar,  the  most  conspicuous  landmark  of  N.  Syria,  derives  its  name, 
el-akru'  ('the  naked'),  from  the  baldness  of  its  summit.  It  appears  to 
have  been  held  sacred  from  a  very  remote  period.  The  Greeks  and  Romans 
here  worshipped  Zeus  or  Jupiter  Casius,  probably  in  reminiscence  of  some 
earlier  rites.  Hadrian  is  said  once  to  have  ascended  the  mountain  in 
order  to  witness  the  spectacle,  during  the  fourth  watch  of  the  night, 
presented  by  night  towards  the  W.,  and  by  day  towards  the  E. ;  and  Julian 
the  Apostate  is  said  to  have  offered  sacrifices  here.  The  summit  commands 
a  very  extensive  view.  The  island  of  Cyprus  is  visible  in  the  form  of  a 
large  triangle.  In  the  extreme  N.  rise  the  snowy,  indented,  and  deeply 
furrowed  masses  of  the  Taurus  Jits.  Nearer  us  rises  the  chain  of  the 
Amanus  (p.  361),  terminating  in  the  Jebel  JIusa,  and  forming  the  W. 
boundary  of  the  plain  of  Antioch.  Beyond  the  latter  the  Lake  of  Antioch 
is  visible.    To  the  S.  towers  the  snow-clad  Lebanon. 

The  N.  slope  of  the  Jebel  el-Akraf  is  steep,  but  the  descent  on  this 
side  is  the  shortest.  In  about  2'/»  hrs.  we  reach  the  Turkish  village  of 
Bezga.  Immediately  at  the  base  of  the  mountain  are  a  gigantic  flight  of 
steps  and  a  road  hewn  in  the  rock.  —  From  Bezga  we  next  reach  (3  hrs.) 
the  ferry  over  the  Orontet,  near  its  mouth.    The  alluvial  soil  here  is  ex- 


■  ^^^H  >?Vf .-'      ^M 


■n 


!!*?\M^>*v*j*> 


#f  SfP'te.Kpp  «(*?  ^<*«f;*^^'^t:  j'f*-:*ff> 


■■1 


358    i?ou<c  42. 


SELEUCIA. 


Harbour. 


tremely  fertile,  and  the  cool  sea-breezes  render  th  climate  healthy.  This 
district  is  also  comparatively  well  peopled  by  Nosairiyeh,  Greeks,  and 
Armenians,  most  of  whom,  however,  generally  speak  Arabic.  —  Beyond 
the  ferry  we  reach  Es-Suweidii/eh  in  1  hr.  About  2'/a  M.  to  the  N.W.  of 
this  village  lie  the  ruins  of  — 

Seleucia.  —  The  fortunes  of  the  seaport  Seleucia  Pieria,  which  was 
founded  by  Seleucus  Nicator  on  the  site  of  an  earlier  town,  were  similar 
to  those  of  Antioch  (comp.  p.  383).  During  the  wars  of  the  Diadochi 
Seleucia  was  occupied  by  the  Ptolemies,  but  was  recovered  for  Syria  by 
Antiochus  the  Great,  B.C.  219.  The  Seleucida:  appear  to  have  fitted  up 
the  city  in  a  very  handsome  style.  Pompey  erected  the  place  into  a  free 
city.  The  Emperor  Constantius  likewise  embellished  Seleucia,  and  caused 
the  harbour  to  be  enlarged  by  extensive  excavations  in  the  rock  (A.D.  338). 
Before  its  capture  by  the  Muslims,  however,  the  city  appears  entirely  to 
have  lost  its  importance.  The  Suweidiyeh  of  the  middle  ages,  the  seaport 
of  Antioch,  whicli  is  probably  identical  with  the  St.  Simeoifs  Harbour  of 
the  Crusaders,  lay  to  the  8.  of  the  ancient  harbour  of  Seleucia,  near  the 
Chapel  of  St.  George.  Seleucia,  which  was  called  by  the  Arabs  SeMkiyeh, 
now  lies  in  a  desolate  region,  enlivened  only  by  the  small  neighbouring 
village  of  El-Kabusi.  The  N.W.  angle  of  the  beautiful  plain  in  which  the 
town  lay  is  bounded  on  one  side  by  the  sea,  and  on  the  other  by  the 
abrupt  spurs  of  the  Jebel  Musa  (p.  301). 

On  our  way  from  Es- Suweidiyeh  we  come  to  a  small  brook.  On  its  S. 
bank  are  the  ruins  of  an  Amimiitheathe  (or  perhaps  of  a  circus),  a  few 
arches  and  galleries  of  which  are  still  visible.  —  After  crossing  the  brook, 
we  observe  a  number  of  rock-tombs  in  the  cliff,  which  is  nearly  200  ft. 
in  height.  We  next  come  to  the  remains  of  a  town-gate,  known  as  the 
Antioch  Gate,  once  connected  with  the  great  city-wall,  which  was  up- 
wards of  5  M.  in  circuit.  The  rocks  to  the  right  here  form  a  semicircular 
space,  containing  gardens,  among  which  are  the  remains  of  an  ancient 
suburb.  —  Proceeding  farther  to  the  IS1.,  and  passing  two  sarcophagi,  we 
reach  a  point  where  the  rocks  again  approach  the  sea,  turning  from  the  W. 
more  towards  the  N.  At  the  angle  formed  by  the  rocks  here  is  the  ancient 
King's  Gate  (p.  359)  and  a  little  farther  to  the  W.  lies  the  Market 
Gate.  At  this  point  the  very  substantial  fortifications  of  the  old  town 
and  the  seaport  turn  to  the  W.  in  the  direction  of  the  harbour.  Outside 
the  wall,  about  500  paces  to  the  S.  of  the  Market,  Gate,  is  a  large 
quadrangular  space,  carefully  paved  with  stone.  —  We  now  reach  the 
Harbour,  which  consisted  of  an  oval  basin  about  660  yds.  long  and  450  yds. 
wide.  The  walls  enclosing  the  basin  are  well  preserved.  At  the  E.  end 
arc  still  remains  of  warehouses  and  other  buildings.  Towards  the  W. 
the  walls  are  thickest,  and  on  this  side  a  tower  and  a  drain  are  still 
preserved.  The  harbour,  into  which  the  water  tlows  from  the  W.,  has 
been  partly  dried  up.  A  canal,  500  yds.  in  length,  leads  from  the  dock 
to  the  sea,  but  is  now  choked  up  with  mud  and  debris.  On  both  sides 
of  this  canal  are  remains  of  watch-towers,  one  of  which  is  hewn  in  the 
rock.  The  entrance  to  the  outer  harbour,  on  the  coast,  is  240  yds.  in 
width,  but  is  now  filled  with  sand.  On  each  side  of  it  projects  a  long 
and  well-built  mole.  That  to  the  N.  is  now  much  damaged,  but  the  S. 
mole,  which  is  120  yds.  long  and  about  10  yds.  wide,  is  still  in  good  preser- 
vation.    It  is  named  after  St.  Paul  (Acts  xiii.  4). 

The  most  remarkable  relic  of  ancient  Seleucia  is  the  great  Hock 
Channel  (Arab,  dehliz),  about  1200  yds.  in  length,  running  from  the  city 
to  the  sea.  To  the  N.  of  the  inner  harbour  lies  a  rocky  valley,  bounded 
by  cliffs  from  400  ft.  to  500  ft.  in  height.  Through  this  flowed  a  stream, 
the  overflow  of  which  frequently  endangered  the  city,  and  its  water  -was 
accordingly  conducted  westwards  to  the  sea  by  means  of  this  great  rocky 
channel.  The  water  was  stored  here  (as  at  the  Bab  el-Hadid  at  Antioch, 
p.  386)  by  closing  the  end  of  the  valley  by  a  wall  of  great  strength  con- 
taining sluices.  The  upper  part  of  the  channel  consists  of  a  tunnel, 
which  begins  50  yds.  from  the  W.  end  of  the  wall  already  mentioned. 
It  is  140  yds.  long,  21  ft.  wide,  and  21  ft.  high.  Beyond  the  tunnel  is  a 
cutting  in  the  rock,  open  at  the  top,   about  88  yds.  in  length,  with  sides 


Rock  Tombs. 


SELEUCIA. 


42.  Route.    359 


nearly  150  ft.  high  at  places.  Next  comes  a  second  tunnel,  45  yds.  long, 
and  beyond  it  the  channel  is  continued  by  means  of  another  open  cutting, 
the  sides  of  which  are  at  first  48  ft.  high,  but  gradually  diminish.  The 
channel  terminates  in  an  abrupt  precipice.  Below  the  second  tunnel  the 
channel  is  crossed  by  a  bridge,  26  ft.  above  it,  which  leads  to  a  fine 
Necropolit,  while  a  staircase  descends  into  the  gorge.  About  3lJ0  yds.  from 
the  upper  entrance  to  the  channel  is  another  outlet  for  the  water  through 
the  rock  on  the  S.  side.  The  remains  of  various  inscriptions  are  visible 
on  the  rocks  lower  down. 

About  200  paces  to  the  S.  of  the  bridge  over  the  rock-channel  are 
a  number  of  Rook  Tombs  in  the  side  of  the  hill,  which  are  supposed 
to  be  those  of  the  Seleucidee.    We  first  enter  a  vestibule,  26  ft.  long  and 


A  a  .'0i:   t 

SE'.EUCIA  PIERIA 

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7-8  ft.  wide,  and  pass  between  a  double  series  of  beautiful  columns, 
under  a  vaulted  roof  consisting  of  the  natural  rock,  to  the  principal 
.chamber,  which  is  richly  decorated  with  friezes,  volutes,  and  other  orna- 
mentation. Beyond  it  are  the  inner  x-ock-chambers,  with  loculi  of  dif- 
ferent sizes  and  shapes. 

The  approach  to  the  Upper  Part  of  the  town  was  defended  by  the 
strongly -fortified  King's  Gate  (p.  358).  A  road,  hewn  in  the  rock,  as- 
cends in  windings  and  crosses  a  bridge.  At  this  point,  in  the  rock  to 
the  left,  are  hewn  spacious  chambers,  which  were  perhaps  used  as  guard- 
rooms ,  as  the  acropolis  probably  rose  immediately  above  them.  On 
reaching  the  plateau  at  the  top,  the  road  divides.  To  the  left  runs  a 
road,  skirting  the  cliffs,  and  hewn  in  the  rock.  To  the  right  (E.)  runs 
the  town-wall,  skirting  the  margin  of  the  plateau.  A  short  distance  from 
this  point  rises  a  handsome  tower.  Over  the  plateau  are  scattered 
numerous  ruins  and  remains  of  columns.    Here  probably  once  stood  the 


mm      ^WS^        ^H^Hfl^H^H    Hi      ^^^H 


360   Route  43. 


TRIPOLI. 


palaees  of  the  wealthy.  The  site  of  an  ancient  temple  is  indicated  by  a 
group  of  columns. 

From  Es-SuwetdIieh  to  Antioch,  about  5  hrs.  The  route  leads  across 
hilly  ground  to  (1  br.)  Ez-Zeittiniyeh,  a  village  occupied  by  Nosairi/'eh 
who  speak  Arabic,  and  to  O/4  hr.)  El-Mishrakiyeh.  After  3/4  hr.  we  cross 
the  Biiyiik  KaraWhai  ('great  black  brook')  and  in  8/4  br.  more  the  Kiijilk 
Karalshai  ('small  black  brook"),  which  flows  through  plantations  of  muller- 
ries.  We  at  length  reach  (l3/4  br.)  the  plain,  and  perceive  the  village  of 
El-Khanni  at  some  distance  to  the  left.  After  '/«  br.  we  cross  the  stone 
bridge  of  Haina,  and  reach  (!/*  br.)  the  bridge  over  the  Orontes  at 
Antioch  (p.  383). 

Another  route,  running  more  to  the  S.,  leads  in  I1/2  hr.  to  the.  isolated 
hill  of  Mdr  Sim'dn,  where  there  is  a  ruined  church  dedicated  to  St.  Simeon 
Stylites  (p.  378).  This  church  is  built  in  the  form  of  a  Greek  cross,  and 
measures  66  yds.  from  N.  to  S.,  and  63  yds.  from  K.  to  W.  In  the  centre 
of  the  nave  rises  a  pedestal  8  ft.  square  and  10  ft.  high,  hewn  in  the  rock. 
On  this  pedestal  once  stood  the  pillar  of  the  saint. 


43.  From  Beirut  to  Alexandretta  and  Mersina  by  Sea. 

The  time-tables  of  the  steamers  are  liable  to  alteration,  and  enquiries 
should  in  every  case  be  made  beforehand.  At  the  places  where  the  ship 
stops  for  a  little  time  the  traveller  should  at  once  take  a  boat  to  the 
land  (I-IV2  fr.  each  person);  the  fare  for  the  return-journey  should  not  be 
paid  till  he  is  safe  on  board  the  steamboat.  Before  leaving  the  steamer 
the  hour  of  its  departure  should  be  ascertained. 

Embarkation  in  Beirut  (comp.  p.  274).  The  boatmen  charge  2  fr.  for 
each  person,  but  better  terms  may  be  made  for  a  large  party. 

Beirut,  see  p.  274.  —  The  view  as  the  steamer  leaves  the  Bay 
of  Beirut,  called  St.  George's  Bay,  is  magnificent,  especially  on 
moonlit  nights.  In  the  background  rises  the  Lebanon  with  the 
snow-clad  Sannin  (p.  283). 

After  5  hrs'.  sail  (for  the  coast,  comp.  pp.  280,  281,  333  et  seq.) 
we  reach  El-Mind,  the  port  of  Tripoli  (p.  333).  [The  steamers  remain 
here  some  hours ;  boat  to  the  land  about  1  fr.  for  each  passenger.] 
Here,  too,  we  have  a  beautiful  panorama  of  sea  and  mountains;  on 
our  right  are  a  number  of  small  islands  and  the  ruins  of  the  former 
mole.  —  From  the  port  a  road  leads  through  orchards  to  (25  min.) 
the  town  of  Tripoli  (tramway,  p.  331) ;  on  the  way  there  or  back  the 
traveller  may  examine  the  Mediaeval  Towers  (p.  332).  In  Tripoli  the 
traveller  should  ascend  the  Castle  Hill  (p.  332)  and,  if  time  allow, 
visit  the  mosque  Taildn  (p.  332). 

For  a  description  of  the  coast  from  Tripoli  toEl-Ladikiyeh,  comp. 
pp.  351  et  seq.  Seen  from  the  water,  El-Ladikiyeh.  (p.  356)  looks  in- 
significant :  it  is  situated  on  a  sand-hill,  surrounded  with  vege- 
tation. The  Nosairiyeh  Mts.  (p.  351),  rising  above  it,  are  very 
inferior  to  Lebanon  in  beauty  of  outline.  The  road  from  the  port 
to  the  town  (l/n  hr.)  leads  through  beautiful  olive-gaTdens.  (If 
time  is  limited,  a  guide  is  desirable.) 

To  the  N.  of  El-Ladikiyeh  the  coast  is  indented  by  numerous  bays. 
The  first  projection  is  the  small  promontory  Eds  Ibn  Hani,  beyond 
which  is  the  Rds  el-Buseit,  the  Posidium  of  antiquity.    Farther 


ALEXANDRETTA. 


43.  Route.   361 


to  the  N.  towers  the  rounded  summit  of  the  Jebel  el-Akra'  (p.  357) ; 
the  steamer  passes  it  in  crossing  the  bay  into  which  the  Orontes  falls. 
The  well-wooded  Jebel  Musd,  the  ancient  Mons  Rhosus  or  Kory- 
phaion,  now  approaches  nearer  the  shore.  Near  the  Rds  el-Khan- 
ztr  ('swine's  promontory',  the  ancient  Promontorium  Rhosicum), 
which  is  clothed  with  the  Aleppo  pine,  we  enter  the  beautiful 
bay  of  — 

Alexandretta.  —  Hotel  Bellevue,  Hotel  Tirsoni,  both  very  un- 
pretending.    There  is  a  restaurant  in  the  market-place.     Several  cafes. 

Vice-Consuls.  British,  A.  Catoni;  United  States,  /.  B.  Jackson  (consul) ; 
French,  Delenda;  German,  Th.  Bel/ante;  Austrian  and  Italian,  Levanle. 

Inteknational  Telegbaph  Office,  on  the  X.  side  of  the  town;  but  the 
official  in  charge  of  it  lives  at  Beilan  in  summer. 

History.  The  foundation  of  Alexandria  on  the  Issicus  Sinus  by  Alexander 
the  Great  probably  did  not  take  place  immediately  after  his  great  victory 
at  Issus  (Oct.,  333),  but  considerably  later.  The  town  was  intended  to 
form  a  starting-point  for  the  great  caravan-route  to  Mesopotamia,  but  the 
Seleucidffi  soon  afterwards  inaugurated  a  new  route  by  Seleucia  and  Antioch. 
In  the  3rd  cent,  it  was  destroyed  by  the  Persians.  As  early  as  the  4th  cent, 
the  town  was  known  as  the  'Little  Alexandria1,  and  sometimes  as  Alexan- 
dria Scabiosa,  on  account  of  the  prevalence  of  leprosy  in  the  district.  It 
is  uncertain  whether  the  later  Arabian  town  occupied  the  precise  site  of 
the  ancient  city  or  not. 

Alexandretta,  Turkish  Iskenderun  or  Scanderoon  (ca.  12,000  in- 
hab.,  half  of  whom  are  Christians),  is  surrounded  by  a  beautiful 
girdle  of  green  hills,  the  offshoots  of  the  Cilician  Taurus.  These 
hills ,  the  Amanus  Mons  of  the  ancients ,  now  bear  no  common 
name;  the  part  adjoining  the  city  is  known  as  the  Jebel  el-Ahmar 
and  Oyaur  T>d<jh.  They  form  the  boundary  between  Syria  and 
Cilicia  (Pyhe  Syro-Cilicise).  The  traveller  coming  from  Palestine 
or  Lebanon  will  be  delighted  with  their  beautiful  green  slopes.  — 
The  Harbour  of  Alexandretta,  about  three-  quarters  of  which  ia 
sheltered  by  the  neighbouring  hills,  is  the  largest  and  best  on  the 
Syrian  coast,  and  steamers  are  enabled  to  load  and  unload  close  to 
the  shore.  The  shipping- trade  is  considerable,  618  vessels  of 
400,286  tons  register  entering  the  harbour  in  1902.  The  imports 
(61  mill.  fr.  annually)  include  manufactured  goods  (40  mill,  fr.) 
and  silk  and  silk  goods  (3J/2  mill,  fr.);  the  exports  (31  mill,  fr.) 
include  wool  (3  mill,  fr.),  native  manufactures  (5  mill,  fr.), 
butter  (3'/2  mill,  fr.),  leather  and  hides  (i3/t  mill,  fr.),  cocoons 
(I1/2  mill,  fr.),  liquorice  (23/4  mill,  fr.),  and  gall-nuts  and  tur- 
meric (1  mill.  fr.).  Most  of  the  inhabitants  gain  their  livelihood  by 
the  transit  trade  with  Aleppo.  Their  complexions  are  generally  of 
a  yellow  hue,  owing  to  the  almost  constant  prevalence  of  fever. 

The  steamers  take  7  or  8  hrs.  from  Alexandretta  to  — 

Mersina.  —  Hotel  Zia  Pasha,  New  Hotel,  Hotel  d'Europe,  all  very 
unpretending.  —  Cafes  at  the  harbour. 

Consulates.  British ,  Massi,  vice-consul ;  French  ,  A.  Guillois,  vice- 
consul  ;  German,  X.  F.  Christmann,  consul ;  Austrian  consular  agent. 

Post  Offices  :  Austrian,  French,  Russian.  —  International  Telegraph 
Office.  —  Agency  of  the  Banque  Oltomane. 


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362   Roule  43. 


AD  ANA. 


Meraina  is  the  seat  of  a  Kaimmakam  in  the  Vilayet  of  Adana. 
It  has  a  rapidly  growing  population  of  about  15,000,  nearly  half  of 
whom  are  Christians,  including  many  Greeks.  The  town  is  sur- 
rounded with  gardens,  but  the  climate  is  unhealthy.  The  exports 
(mainly  cotton,  sesame,  and  other  grain)  are  valued  at  about 
23  mill.  fr.  annually,  the  imports  at  17  mill.  fr.  In  1904  the  port 
was  entered  by  377  steamers  of  458,884  tons  register  and  647  sail- 
ing-vessels of  14,868  tons.  —  As  the  steamers  generally  lie  here 
for  24  hrs. ,  a  visit  may  be  paid  to  Tarsus  (see  below).  —  Mersina  is 
called  at  every  fortnight  by  the  Austrian  Lloyd  (from  Oct.  to  March 
every  week),  the  Russian  Steamship  Co.,  and  the  Messageries  Mari- 
times,  and  is  likewise  connected  with  Alexandria  and  Cyprus  by  the 
Khedivial  Mail  (weekly). 

Excursions.  1  To  Soli  (4*/2  ^f.),  °n  the  road  to  Seleacia  (horse  I  mej. ; 
carr.,  there  and  back,  3-4  mej.).  The  ancient  Soli  (Pompeiopolis),  destroyed 
by  Tigranes  in  B.C.  91,  is  now  represented  by  the  remains  (about  40  pr.ces 
long)  of  a  street  of  smooth  columns.  The  columns,  many  of  which  are 
provided  with  brackets,  are  about  9  ft.  apart  and  rest  on  substantial  bases. 

2.  To  Tarsus  and  Adana,  41  M.,  railway  in  21/i  hrs.  (train  daily  in 
each  direction;  also  train  there  and  back  on  same  day  thrice  a  week).  — 
17  H.  Tarsus,  a  small  and  dirty  town  with  16-18,000  inhab.,  lies  in  a  damp 
and  unhealthy  plain.  It  is  the  residence  of  a  Kaimmakam.  In  the  time 
of  Augustus  it  was  a  very  prosperous  place  and  was  famed  for  its  schools. 
St.  Paul  was  born  here. 

41  M.  Adana  (59  ft.;  accommodation  in  the  poor  Greek  hotels  oi  Deli 
Mehmed  and  Atanassi)  is  beautifully  situated  in  the  plain,  with  a  view  of 
the  Taurus  Jits.,  to  which  it  is  strategically  the  key.  The  place  bore  the 
same  name  in  ancient  times.  The  Sarus  which  flows  past  it,  the  ancient 
Sai'os,  is  crossed  by  an  old  bridge  of  many  arches,  330  yards  long.  Adana 
contains  about  35,000  inhab.,  the  larger  half  of  whom  are  Christians.  The 
town  is  the  residence  of  the  Vali  of  the  province  of  Adana.  The  Banque 
Ottomane  has  a  branch  here,  and  a  French  vice-consul  is  stationed  here. 
The  most  important  branch  of  trade  is  the  export  of  grain  and  cotton. 
The  climate  is  very  hot,  but  is  considered  healthy. 

For  the  route  from  Mersina  to  Constantinople  through  Asia  Minor, 
see   Baedeker's  Kontlantinopel  und  Kleinatien  (at  present  in  German  only). 


44.   From  Alexandretta  to  Aleppo, 

Carriage  Road,  IO21/2M.;  diligence  (very  unpleasant)  several  time-;  a 
week;  a  carriage,  ordered  from  Aleppo  in  advance,  costs  about  80  fr.  — 
Bridle  Route  (used  by  the  Mukaris ;  good  horses  scarce),  7472  M. ;  this 
coincides  with  the  carriage-road  as  far  as  El-Hammam  (p.  363),  and  runs 
thence  direct  to  Aleppo,  avoiding  the  ddtour  made  by  the  road.  —  Aleppo 
is  more  easily  reached  via  Hama  (K.  45). 

Alexandretta,  see  p.  361.  —  The  route  hence  to  the  foot  of  the 
mountains  is  generally  very  hot  in  the  daytime.  To  the  right  are 
traces  of  a  Roman  road.  The  mountains  are  clad  with  evergreen 
oaks,  Aleppo  pines,  and  Pinus  sylvestris.  At  a  point  near  Beilan 
the  road  is  hewn  in  the  rock.    In  2\'2  hrs.  we  reach  (9t/2  M.)  — 

Beil&n  (1410  ft.;  accommodation  in  the  large  Kh&n  at  the  en- 
trance to  the  village),  a  village  with  about  7500  inhab.  (mostly 
Muslims)  and  the  seat  of  a  Kaimmakam,  situated  on  the  N.  slope 
of  a  ravine  between  the  Kara  Dagh  and  the  Jebel  Musa.   The  houses 


SENJIRLI. 


■14.  Route.   363 


arc  built  of  wood  and  rise  in  terraces  one  above  another.  Frcsli  water 
flows  down  from  the  hills  in  every  direction.  The  Beilan  gorge  con- 
tains remains  of  an  aqueduct.  The  place  is  frequented  in  summer 
by  the  inhabitants  of  Alexandretta,  and  even  by  those  of  Aleppo. 
The  vegetation  is  beautiful,  and  vines  and  fruit-trees  abound. 

About  50  min.  beyond  Beilan  we  see  the  large  Lake  of  Antioch 
below  us,  and  reach  the  culminating  point  of  the  pass  at  the  actual 
Pylae  Syriae  (2395  ft.),  which  Alexander  the  Great  traversed  after 
his  victory  at  Issus  (B.  C.  333),  and  later  a  much-used  Roman  road. 
"We  pass  (^4  hr.)  a  watch-house  on  the  right,  where  the  road  to 
Antioch  (6  hrs. ;  p.  388)  diverges  to  the  right,  and  (1  hr.)  reach  a 
plateau  planted  with  line  oaks.  After  40  min.  the  road  leads  to  the 
N.E.  through  a  valley.  In  1  hr.  more  we  reach  (20V2  M.)  Kyryk- 
Khan  or  Khan  Diarbekerli,  situated  at  the  edge  of  the  plain  of  El- 
fAmk  (see below),  where  tolerable  nightquarters  maybe  obtained  in 
one  of  the  three  poor  khans. 

Biding  towards  the  N.  from  Kyryk-Khan  on  the  E.  slope  of  the  Ama- 
nus  chain  (p.  361;  police  escort  necessary),  we  reach  in  about  14  hrs.  the 
small  Kurd  village  and  ruins  of  Senjirli.  The  excavations  of  the  Berlin 
Oriental  Committee  made  in  18SH-9'2  have  brought  to  light  the  interesting 
ruins  of  the  ancient  royal  Ilittite  (pp.  lxxv,  394)  town  of  SartCal.  The 
citadel-hill  was  surrounded  at  some  distance  by  two  city-walls,  the  outer 
probably  dating  from  the  8tb  cent.  B.C.,  the  inner  from  the  13th  century. 
The  inner  city-gate  on  the  S.  and  the  citadel-gate  bear  noteworthy  Hittitc 
reliefs,  some  of  them  accompanied  by  inscriptions.  The  objects  found 
here  are  now  in  the  museums  of  Berlin  and  Constantinople;  they  include 
sculptures  of  important  archaeological  interest,  and  numerous  Aramaic, 
cuneiform,  and  Ilittite  inscriptions,  the  last  of  which  have  not  yet  been 
satisfactorily  deciphered.  Comp.  'Ausgrabungcn  in  Senjirli''  (Berlin,  3  vols., 
1893,  1898,  1902). 

Beyond  Kyryk-Khan  the  way  leads  through  the  marshy  plain  of 
El-Amk  ('depression'),  the  Unki  of  the  Assyrians,  and  called 
the  Plain  of  Antioch  or  Amykion  Pedicn  by  the  Greeks.  This  plain, 
which  lies  about  360  ft.  above  the  sea-level,  was  once  the  bed  of  a 
lake,  and  contains  numerous  artificial  conical  mounds.  It  is  bounded 
on  the  E.  by  the  southernmost  offshoots  of  the  Kurd  Ddyh  (Kurd 
Mts.).  In  A.D.  273  Aurelian  defeated  Zenobia  here  (see  p.  340). 
The  plain  affords  a  fine  retrospective  view  of  the  Amanus  chain 
(p.  361).  —  In  1  hr.  we  cross  a  bridge  over  the  Karasu  ('black 
water')  and  in  l'/2hr.  more  reach  the  long  ancient  bridge  of  Jisr 
Murad,  across  a  deep  marsh.  Riding  between  chains  of  low  hills, 
we  reach  (1  hr.)  the  Turcoman  village  of  'Ain  el-Beida  ('white- 
spring'),  which  lies  about  A/4  hr.  to  one  side  of  the  main  route. 

In  l'/2  hr.  from  fAin  el-Beida  we  reach  (40^2  M.)  the  small  oasis 
of  El-Hammdm,  with  a  warm  sulphur  bath,  a  Turkish  telegraph 
station,  and  the  Khan  Omar  Agha  (poor  nightquarters).  At  this 
point  the  bridle-path  leaves  the  carriage-road.  The  reed  huts  of 
Beduine  are  occasionally  passed.  Large  tortoises  abound  in  this 
district.  In  1  hr.  a  road  on  the  right  diverges  to  the  village  of  Gin- 
darus  (now  Jindareii),  which  Strabo  mentions  as  a  haunt  of  robbers. 


364   Route  44. 


KHIRBET  ED-DEIR. 


■ 


]n  3hrs.  more  wo  cross  (61  M.)  the  river  M/V?n  (the  ancient  Ufrenui), 
beyond  which  we  ascend  through  a  hilly  district  to  (2  hrs. ;  70  M.) 
Katma.  Proceeding  thence  via  Kafr  Allun  and  Deir  Jemdl,  we  rea^h 
(5  hrs.;  102^2  M.)  the  bridge  of  the  Kuweik  and  the  Antakiyeh 
gate  of  Aleppo  (p.  373). 

The  shorter  Bridle  Path  from  El-Hammam  to  Aleppo  le-ids 
to  (3/4  hr.)  the  '  Afrin  (see  above),  which  is  fordable  only  when  the 
water  is  low.  We  then  proceed  to  (3  hrs.)  Hazreh  and  (20  min.) 
Turmanin.  In  the  upper  part  of  the  latter  are  a  few  antiquities. 
One  small  building  is  adorned  with  rosettes  and  crosses,  and  there 
is  a  house  with  several  clustered  columns.  To  the  W.  are  some 
rock-tombs  with  stone  staircases.    To  Kal'at  Sim'an,  see  p.  381. 

In  a  smull  valley  to  the  N.E.  of  Turmanin  (p.  381)  are  situated  me 
very  interesting  ruins  of  (.23  min  )  Khirbet  ed-Heir  ('the  monastery").  'Die 
larger  building  still  standing  within  the  enclosing  wall  was  perhaps  a 
PandocheiOn  (a  kind  of  tavern),  and  is  in  good  preservation  ;  even  the  gable 
and  three  small  arched  windows  still  exist.  The  house  is  partly  sur- 
rounded with  the  remarkable  remains  of  a  peristyle,  built  of  large  ;  nd 
carefully  hewn  blocks.  In  front  of  this  building  is  a  court  paved  with  large 
slabs,  with  two  reservoirs.  The  adjacent  Church,  of  the  6th  cent.,  is  a  more 
ornate  edifice.  It  is  a  columnar  basilica  (p.  xevi),  with  the  peculiarity  that 
the  apse  of  the  nave  projects  in  a  semicircular  form,  while  the  side-apses 
are  enclosed  within  square  towers.  The  chief  apse  has  three  windows, 
and  the  side-apses  one  each,  all  of  which  are  bordered  with  moulding. 
The  front  of  the  church  is  enclosed  between  two  towers,  of  three  stories 
each,  which,  as  well  as  the  nave,  once  bore  gables,  and  were  connected 
by  a  colonnade  above  the  portal. 

Leaving  the  village  of  Turmanin,  we,  ascend  the  hill  to  the  S. 
to  (35  min.)  the  village  of  Deramdn.  Beyond  it  (10  min.)  we 
descend  into  a  valley,  and  obtain  a  view  (^  hr.)  of  the  extensive 
ruins  of  Erhdb,  situated  in  the  valley,  */4  hr.  t0  the  right.  The 
path  then  ascends  to  (V2  hr.)  the  top  of  a  hill.  This  is  the  highest 
point  of  the  Aleppo  road ;  the  village  of  Tokat  is  visible  to  the  right 
among  plantations  of  fig-trees.  We  pass  (55  min.)  a  village  on  the 
left,  (20  min.)  another  on  the  right,  and  (25  min.)  a  third  lying 
1/i  hr.  to  the  right.  On  the  left  (13  min.)  we  next  observe  the  ruins 
of  'Ain  Jdra,  and  soon  obtain  (10  min.)  towards  the  S.E.  a  view  of 
the  citadel  of  Aleppo.  After  23  min.  we  perceive  to  the  left  (J/4  hr. 
distant)  the  village  Kafr  Sieil(J).  On  the  left,  55  min.  farther  on, 
stands  a  deserted  khan.  We  now  descend  to  (40  min.)  a  khan, 
pass  (47  min.)  the  bridge  over  the  Kuweik,  and  enter  Aleppo  (p.  373) 
by  the  Antakiyeh  gate. 

45.  Railway  from  Reyak  (Beirut,  Damascus)  to  Horns 
and  Hama. 

117  M.  One  train  daily,  starting  at  12.50  p.m.  and  connecting  with 
the  trains  from  Beirut  and  Damascus  (see  It.  37),  runs  from  Reyak  via 
Ba'albek  (see  p.  318)  to  (80  M.)  Iloms  in  4>/2brs.  (fares  75  pi.  20,  52  pi.  20  pa.) 
and  to  (117  M.)  llamd  in  5>/s  hrs.  (fares  108  pi.  150,  75  pi.  30  pa.).  For  the 
railway  rate  of  exchange,  sec  p.  275.  The  train  in  the  opposite  direction 
leaves  Ham&  at  4.30  a.m.  and  Homt  at  6.31  a.m.,  reaching  Rey&k  at  11.47  a.m. 
and  connecting  there  with  trains  for  Beirut  and  Damascus. 


LEBWE1T. 


45.  Route.  365 


From  Reydk  (p.  292)  to  (16  M.)  Ba'albek,  see  p.  318.  The  rail- 
way here  reaches  its  highest  point  (3680  ft.).  To  the  W.  of  Ba'albek 
lies  the  watershed  of  the  plain,  the  S.  part  of  which  is  drained 
hy  the  Nahr  el-Litdril,  while  the  waters  of  its  N.  part  collect  in 
the  Nahr  el-'Asi  (Orontes).  The  railway  descends  through  gardens, 
passing  near  the  ruins.  Just  beyond  (19  M.)  the  village  of  Ya'dt, 
which  lies  a  little  to  the  left  of  the  line,  we  see  the  large  column 
of  Yarath  (p.  327)  rising  amid  the  fields.  More  in  the  background, 
on  the  Lebanon,  are  the  villages  of  Shelif,  El-Kuneiseh,  and  the 
large  Deir  el-Ahmar  (p.  327).  26  M.  Sha'ad,  a  little  to  the  left; 
on  the  hill  to  the  right  is  Resm  el-Hadeth.  The  plain  is  here  un- 
dulating and  at  one  point  is  reduced  to  very  narrow  dimensions 
through  the  encroachment  of  the  foot-hills. 

351/-2  M.  Lebweh  (Lebboue;  2820  ft.).  The  village,  the  ancient 
Libo,  lies  some  way  from  the  railway,  and  about  %  M.  from  it,  in 
'Ain  Lebweh,  rises  one  of  the  chief  (though  not  one  of  the  southern- 
most) sources  of  the  Orontes.  —  As  we  proceed,  we  see  the  villages 
of  Nebi  Othmdn,  El-' Ain,  and  El-Jedeideh  on  the  edge  of  the  moun- 
tains to  the  E.  (r.),  while  to  the  W.  (1.)  Harbata  lies  on  the  river  be- 
low us.    Farther  on,  Zabun  lies  to  the  left  and  Fikeh  to  the  right. 

45  M.  Rds  Ba'albek,  the  Conna  of  the  Itinerarium  Antonini,  is 
occupied  by  United  Greeks.  The  village  (2655  ft.),  which  lies  at 
some  distance  from  the  railway  station,  contains  the  foundations  of 
old  churches  and  other  buildings.  —  Beyond  Ras  Ba'albek  we  have 
a  view  to  the  left  for  some  time  of  the  large  Metawileh  village  of 
Harmel  (!/o  hr-  distant,  beyond  the  Orontes),  and  of  the  singular 
monument  of  Kamu'at  el-Harmel  on  the  hither  side  of  the  river. 

This  monument  stands  on  a  pedestal  of  basalt,  3'/2  ft.  high.  On  this 
rests  the  lower  story,  about  10  yds.  square  and  23  ft.  high,  round  which 
runs  a  cornice;  above  is  a  second  story  of  smaller  size,  19  ft.  high,  sur- 
mounted by  a  pyramid,  about  15  ft.  high.  The  whole  is  constructed  of 
limestone.  At  the  8.W.  corner  we  observe  that  the  building  is  solid 
throughout.  The  sides  of  the  lower  story  are  covered  with  sculptures  in 
relief  representing  hunting -scenes:  on  the  N.  side  are  two  stags  and 
hunting-implements;  on  the  E.  a  boar  pursued  by  two  dogs;  on  the  W.  a 
boar  (bear?)  with  two  young  ones.  The  figures  on  the  S.  side  are  un- 
recognizable. 

„About  V«nr-  to  the  S.S.W.  lies  Deir  Mdr  M&rOn,  situated  on  the  Nahr 
el-'Asi.  In  a  perpendicular  cliff,  about  295  ft.  high,  the  cavern  is  shown 
in  which  Maron,  the  founder  of  the  Maronite  sect  (p.  lxii),  is  said  to  have 
lived.  It  contains  several  small,  dark,  and  dirty  cells.  About  500  paces 
farther  to  the  S.W.  bursts  forth  ^a  large  spring  which  is  regarded  as  ono 
of  the  main  sources  of  the  El-'Asi. 

In  the  distance  we  see  the  Lake  of  Homs  (p..366).  We  pass  close 
to  (60  M.)  the  village  of  El-Kd'a.  The  plain  here  is  little  cultivated. 
Towards  the  N.W.  we  see  Riblah,  in  the  valley  of  the  Orontes. 

Riblah  is  mentioned  as  a  town  on  the  divinely  prescribed  N.  frontier 
of  Israel  (Numbers  xxxiv.  11).  Pharaoh-Necho  encamped  at  Riblah  on  his 
campaign  against  Assyria,  and  kept  Jehoahaz  in  captivity  here  (2  Kings 
xxiii.  3i!)-  Nebuchadnezzar  also  made  some  stay  at  Riblah  (2  Kings  xxv. 
6  et  seq. ;  Jerem.  xxxix.  5). 

The  range  of  the  Anti-Libanus  becomes  lower  and  lower.   To 


I  4.iK.-V" 


366   i?o«te  45. 


HOMS. 


From  Rfyak 


the  right  are  the  extensive  mediaeval  ruins  of  (57  M.)  Jitsiyeh  aid 
(61  M.)  the  village  of  Zer'ah,  with  plantations  of  mulberry-trees. 

63  M.  El-Kuseir.  We  have  now  reached  the  N.  extremity  of 
Anti-Libanus,  which  here  loses  itself  in  the  plain,  while  the  Lebanon 
chain  itself  is  also  considerably  lower.  The  handsome  village,  which 
we  pass  after  leaving  the  station,  affords  a  good  example  of  the  st;ie 
of  building  practised  in  the  piain  of  North  Syria.  The  streets  ire 
fairly  straight  and  comparatively  wide;  the  houses  and  their  courts 
are  each  surrounded  by  a  lofty  clay  wall.  —  Farther  on  we  see  to 
the  left  the  hill  of  Tell  Mindau,  dotted  with  white  houses.  Tnis 
place  is  probably  identical  with  the  Laodicea  ad  Libanum  of  ihe 
Grteco-Roman  period  and  the  ancient  Kadesh,  the  fortress  of  the 
Hittites,  which  is  frequently  mentioned  on  Egyptian  mouuments. 
Beyond  (N.)  the  small  plain  of  the  Nahr  el-Kebir  (p.  351)  begins 
the  range  of  the  Jebel  Nosairtyeh  (p.  351),  forming  a  continuation 
of  the  Lebanon  chain.  On  the  first  of  its  higher  summits  we  see 
KaUat  el-Hom  (p.  367). 

QQifaM.'El-Kattlneh.  The  village  lies  nearly  2  M.  farther  to 
the  N.,  at  the  N.E.  end  of  the  Lake  of  Horns  (see  below);  the  ul- 
lage in  the  immediate  neighbourhood  of  the  railway -station  is 
Kmum.  From  this  point  we  overlook  the  Lake  of  Horns  (the  mediae- 
val Lake  of  Kadas),  which  is  about  6  M.  long  and  3  M.  broad.  The 
Orontes  flows  from  S.  *o  N.  through  the  lake,  which  is  shut  in  at  its 
N.  end  by  a  high  and  thick  dam,  built  of  dressed  blocks  of  stone 
and  1^2  M.  in  length.  In  the  lower  part  of  this  dam  are  openings 
which  allow  the  water  to  flow  into  the  bed  of  the  Orontes.  On  the 
E.  shore  of  the  lake  are  several  villages. 

We  pass  the  villages  of  Kefraya  and  Baba  'Amr,  and  reach  — 

80  M .  Homs.  —  The  Railway  Station  lies  1  M.  to  the  S.W.  of  the 
town;  carriage  to  the  hotel,  1-2  fr.  —  Grand  New  Hotel  (owner,  George 
Zmaragdis),  in  the  N.W.  part  of  the  town,  pens.  10  fr.  (wine  extra). 

Carriage  ordered  at  the  hotel,  6  pi.  per  drive;  to  the  railway-station, 
6-12  pi. ;  per  hour,  10-12  pi.  To  Tripoli,  60-70  fr. ;  to  Palmyra,  see  p.  337.  — 
Turkish  Post  Office  &  Telegraph  Station. 

Physician.  Dr.  Alelkonian,  an  Armenian,  Physician  of  the  Jesuit  Hos- 
pital. —  Dispensaries  of  Dr.  Charles  Duba  and  the  Jesuit  Hospital. 

Horns  (1660  ft.)  contains  about  60,000  inhab.,  including  about 
15,000  Orthodox  Greeks  and  about  1000  Latins,  and  is  important  as 
a  market  for  the  surrounding  tribes.  The  sashes  woven  by  the  natives 
are  in  request.  The  Greeks  possess  a  church,  a  monastery,  and 
girls'  and  boys1  schools  supported  by  the  Russians;  the  Jesuits  have 
a  church,  a  convent,  schools,  and  an  hospital  and  dispensary. 

Horns  is  the  ancient  Emesa ,  which  is  first  mentioned  by  Pliny  as 
Hemesa,  but  Emesenea  are  mentioned  at  a  still  earlier  period  among  the 
'Scenites'  (dwellers  in  tents')  who  fought  against  the  Romans.  Emesa  first 
became  celebrated  as  the  native  place  of  Heliogabalus  or  Bassianus,  who 
was  high-priest  here  at  the  famous  temple  of  the  sun-god  (Ba'al),  and 
was  proclaimed  Roman  emperor  in  218.  Emesa  was  also  the  birthplace 
of  Julia  Domna,  wife  of  the  Emp.  Septimius  Severus.  Aurelian  defeated 
the  Palmyrenes  here  in  272  (p.  340).  Under  the  Arabs  Horns  was  an  im- 
portant place  with  a  strong  castle.  In  109U  it  was  captured  by  the  Crusaders. 


to  llama. 


KAL'AT  EL-HOSN. 


45.  Route.   367 


Homs  is  comparatively  clean;  the  old  town  is  almost  entirely 
built  of  basalt,  and  its  streets  are  paved.  The  chief  part  of  tho 
town  lies  to  the  N.  of  the  citadel;  to  the  E.,  S.,  and  W.  are  the 
new  quarters,  mainly  built  of  sun-dried  bricks  and  separated  by  the 
Muslim  cemeteries.  The  principal  relic  of  the  ancient  fortifications 
is  a  hamlsome  gate  on  the  W.  side. 

A  good  survey  of  the  town  is  obtained  from  the  Citadel,  which 
was  blown  up  by  Ibrahim  Pasha  (p.  lxxxv)  on  account  of  a  rebellion 
of  the  townspeople.  The  citadel  is  almost  entirely  destroyed;  only 
one  ancient  gpteway  (Bdb  el-Hawa),  built  of  basalt,  is  still  standing. 
The  \iew  includes  21  minarets  (square  black  towers  of  basalt)  and 
the  domes  of  20  bath-houses;  it  also  affords  an  idea  of  the  way  each 
house  is  surrounded  by  its  own  wall  (comp.  p.  366).  In  the  plain 
to  the  S."W.  lies  the  village  of  Baba  fAmr.  —  A  visit  may  also  be 
made  to  the  wide  Bazaar,  with  its  arched  roof  and  its  numerous 
rustic  and  Beduin  customers.  To  the  N.  of  the  town  is  an  open  space 
with  the  artillery-barracks.  —  The  afternoon  may  be  pleasantly 
spent  in  driving  (1/2  hr.)  to  the  Orontes,  on  the  bank  of  which  are 
several  cafe's. 

From  Homs  to  Tripoli,  58'/2  M.  The  carriage -road  (public  carriage 
daily,  fare  8>/2  fr.  each)  passes,  the  following  points :  2'/j  51.,  bridge  over 
the  Orontes;  61/431.,  village  of  Khirbelet- Tin  on  the  right;  41/3  M.,  village 
of  Khirbet  el-Hamm&m  on  the  right;  5  31.,  village  of  El-Hadideh;  33/4  JI., 
bridge  over  th'e  Nahr  es-Fafa:  21/2  M.,  Jisr  el-Aswad;  12^2  M.,  Khdn  'Aii/dsh, 
at  a  bridge  over  the  Nahr  el-Kebir  (p.  351;  Jisr  el-Abyad);  VU  M.,  Sheikh 
'Aiy&sh,  an  old  khan  on  the  right;  4!/s  M.,  Nalir  'Akkdr  (p.  351);  thence 
to  Tripoli,  see  p.  351.  —  Tripoli,  see  p.  331. 

An  interesting  ddtour  may  be  made  via  Zuweireh  to  (ca.  6  hrs.)  — 

Kal'at  el-Hosn,  or  ffosn  el-Akrdd  (Kurd  fortress).  In  1180  the  castle 
was  in  possession  of  the  Hospitallers,  but  in  1271  it  surrendered  to  Bei- 
bars.  The  castle  commanded  the  pass  leading  from  the  coast  to  Homs 
and  Hama.  A  village  and  the  residence  of  a  Kaimmakam  are  now  estab- 
lished within  the  building,  which  is  well  preserved.  Over  the  portal  on 
the  W.  side  ar-.  two  sculptured  lions. 

From  Kal'at  el-Hosn  we  regain  the  road  from  Homs  to  Tripoli  (see 
above)  at  ('ca.  5  hrs.)  'Ain  es-fiaudd. 

The  railway  now  proceeds  towards  the  N.  over  the  treeless  but 
well-cultivated  plain. 

90'/2  M.  Tell  Bheh,  situated  on  an  isolated  hill  to  the  right.  Its 
houses  consist  of  a  cubical  substructure,  without  windows,  covered 
with  a  lofty,  conical  roof,  built  of  layers  of  stone  overlapping  each 
other  on  the  inside.  —  Farther  on,  to  the  right  of  the  railway,  are 
the  villages  of  TJmm  Shersha  and  El-6hazar.  We  then  (96*/2  M.j 
cross  the  deep  valley  of  the  Orontes  by  a  bridge  33  yds.  in  length, 
and  also  shortly  afterwards  (98  M.)  the  Wadi  Nefsi,  a  lateral  valley. 
—  We  now  pass  the  villages  of  (100  M.)  Harb  Nefsi  (on  the  left), 
(lOBVa  M.)  Beir  el-FerdU  (r. ),  and  (106  M.)  Birm  (1.). 

109^2  M.  KefrbUm  (Kafrabuhum),  a  large  Christian  village. 

117  M.  Hama.  —  The  Railway  Station  lies  in  the  W.  part  of  the 
town,  about  '/a  hr.  from  the  Locanda.  —  Carriages  (to  the  hotel,  1-2  fr.) 
meet  the  train.  At  other  times  they  may  be  ordered  through  the  landlord 
of  the  I.ocanda.     The  fare  to  Aleppo  (2  days)  is  about  60  fr. 

liAEOtivjiK's  Palestine  and  Syria.  4th  Edit.  23 


<*'&T7"«*r5X' 


■■■I 


■■■ 


WwHPBwB  IwHoRnBol 


■ 


^H 


■ 


368    Route  45. 


HAM  A. 


The  Hotel  National  is  an  Arab  Locanda  with  European  beds  (linen 
not  always  clean);  bed  and  coffee,  1  mej.  The  traveller  has  to  furnish 
all  his  own  provisions,  except  tea  or  coffee.  —  Turkish  Post  Office  & 
Telegraph  Station. 

Hamd  (1015  ft.),  which  has  recently  greatly  increased,  now 
contains  80,000  inhah.,  and  is  the  seat  of  a  mutesarrif  (vilayet  of 
Suriya)  and  of  a  garrison.  Its  trade,  carried  on  mainly  with  the 
surrounding  Beduins  and  Nosairiyeh,  is  of  considerable  importance. 
The  native  industries  have  suffered  seriously  from  European  com- 
petition, but  the  fAbayeh,  or  Arabian  mantle,  and  other  textiles, 
are  still  manufactured  here,  and  its  leather  goods  (jackets,  shoes,  etc.) 
are  also  in  demand.  The  inhabitants  are  considered  proud  and  fanat- 
ical.   The  climate  is  hot  and  unhealthy. 

Hamath  was  the  capital  of  a  kingdom  the  extent  of  which  we  do  not 
know.  Amos  (vi.  2)  speaks  of  the  place  as  Hamath  the  Great.  In  2  Kings 
xviii.34  its  capture  by  the  Assyrians  is  mentioned  (comp.Is.  x.  9).  Josephus 
speaks  of  the  town  as  Amat/ia,  and  the  surrounding  country  as  Amat/iitis. 
It  probably  received  the  name  of  Epiphania  from  Antioehus  IV.  Epiphanes, 
and  early  Christian  authors  call  it  Emath  (or  Khamat)  Epiphaniu.  In  639 
llama  surrendered  without  resistance  to  the  advancing  Muslims,  com- 
manded by  Abu  fUbeida  (p.  298),  and  the  church  was  then  converted  into 
the  'mosque  of  the  upper  market1.  In  the  troublous  times  of  the  Cru- 
sades Hama,  was  occupied  by  the  Isma'ilians  (p.  lxxii).  The  place  was 
captured  by  Tancred  in  1108.  In  1115  it  was  again  wrested  from  the  Franks 
by  Toghtekin,  a  Turk.  In  1157  it  was  destroyed  by  a  fearful  earthquake. 
The  place  was  at  length  taken  possession  of  by  Saladin,  in  1178.  Hama, 
again  prospered  for  a  short  period  under  Abul/edd,  a  descendant  of  the 
family  of  Saladin,  and  a  man  of  great  talent,  who  was  born  in  1273.  In 
1310  he  was  appointed  prince,  or  'sultan1,  of  Hama,,  Mararra,  and  Barzin, 
and  was  known  as  El-Jlelik  cl-JIuayyad  ('the  king  favoured  by  God1). 
Even  during  his  warlike  campaigns  be  continued  to  prosecute  his  scientific 
studies,  and  associated  with  eminent  scholars.  A  geographical  work  and 
a  history  written  by  him  still  enjoy  a  high  reputation.  With  his  death 
(in  1331)  ended  the  last  period  of  Rama's  prosperity.  The  Arabian  geo- 
grapher Yakut  (d.  1229)  was  a  native  of  Hama. 

The  town  lies  picturesquely  in  the  narrow  valley  of  the  Orontes 
(Arab.  El-'Asi),  which  flows  through  it  from  S.E.  to  N.W.,  in 
the  form  of  an  S.  In  the  S.  opening  of  this  curve  rises  the  castle 
hill.  The  river  originally  ran  to  the  S.  of  this  hill,  where  the  de- 
pression of  its  old  bed  is  still  distinguishable.  The  chief  part  of 
the  town  lies  on  the  left  (S.)  bank  of  the  river,  which  rises  to  a 
height  of  130-165  ft. ;  on  the  right  bank  are  the  Serai  and  the  ad- 
joining quarters.  The  town  is  comparatively  clean  and  the  streets 
are  paved;  the  houses  are  mostly  of  sun-dried  brick,  though  basalt 
buildings  are  not  lacking.  The  bazaars  are  spacious.  The  river  is 
crossed  by  four  bridges.  The  uppermost  of  these  leads  to  the  Serai, 
the  next  lies  to  the  E.,  and  the  third  to  the  N.  of  the  castle  hill, 
while  the  lowest  stands  at  the  point  where  the  river  bends  at  an 
acute  angle  towards  the  N.  One  of  the  chief  curiosities  of  Hama 
consists  in  its  huge  water-wheeis  (iid'dra),  each  bearing  a  name  of 
its  own.  They  are  used  for  pumping  up  the  water  of  the  Orontes, 
and  their  creaking  is  incessant  by  day  and  night.  The  town  is  sur- 
rounded by  gardens  with  numerous  poplars. 


MA' ARRET  EN-NO'MAN. 


45.  Route. 


369 


The  best  view  of  the  town  is  obtained  from  the  Castle  Hill  (p.  368), 
which  is  about  130  ft.  high  and  seems  to  be  partly  artificial.  No 
remains  of  the  castle  which  once  crowned  the  hill  are  left.  The 
summit  commands  a  fine  view  of  the  valley  and  the  extensive  and 
fertile  plain  to  the  W.  To  the  S.  the  view  is  cut  short  by  the 
isolated  ridge  of  the  Jebel  Arba'tn  (or  Mdrin),  and  on  the  N.  it  is 
limited  by  the  equally  isolated  Sell  Abdln;  to  the  E.  rises  the  Jebel 
el- Ala  (see  below),  and  to  the  W.  the  Nosairiyeh  Mts.  (p.  351).  — 
The  Serai  Bridge  (p.  368),  with  the  gigantic  water-wheels  and  the 
town-gardens,  forms  a  pretty  picture.  Adjoining  the  next  bridge,  on 
the  right  bank  of  the  river,  is  the  'Palace'  of  the  emirs  of  the  Kilani 
family.  The  mosques  possess  remarkably  fine  minarets,  twenty- 
four  in  all,  the  handsomest  being  that  of  the  Jam?  el-Kebir  ('great 
mosque').  The  Jami'  el-Hayya  ('serpent  mosque')  derives  its  name 
from  the  fact  that  two  of  its  columns  are  intertwined  in  a  serpen- 
tine fashion.  The  house  of  Muayyad  Bey  deserves  a  visit,  being 
tastefully  decorated  in  the  interior.  At  the  N.W.  angle  of  the  town, 
where  the  river  turns  to  the  N.,  a  number  of  catacombs  are  said  to 
exist  on  the  right  bank,  at  some  height  above  the  river.  —  Several 
Hittite  Inscriptions  (pp.  lxxv,  394)  have  also  been  found  at  Hania. 

To  the  E.  of  Hania  lies  the  district  of  Jebel  el-' Aid  ('highest  moun- 
tain'). The  Arabs  state  that  there  are  365  villages  among  these  hills.  The 
whole  district  is  covered  with  a  thin  crust  of  basalt.  Fragments  of  build- 
ings and  inscriptions,  frequently  found  here,  indicate  that  the  country 
was  wealthy  and  populous  during  the  Roman  period. 


From  Hania  to  Aleppo. 

Road.  A  carriage  (p.  367)  takes  2  days,  while  on  horseback  2'2-27  hrs. 
(i.e.  3  days)  are  required.  A  railway  (continuation  of  the  Reyak-Hama  line) 
is  to  he  opened  in  the  autumn  of  1C06. 

A  ride  of  50  min.  brings  us  to  the  village  of  Et-Tayyibeh,  beyond 
which  the  route  runs  parallel  to  the  chain  of  the  Nosairiyeh  Mts. 
(p.  351),  traversing  an  open  plain.  The  next  villages  are  (2*/2  hrs.) 
Latmln,  (1  hr.  50  min.)  SheUchUn,  with  a  large  khan,  and  (40  min.) 
El-Hish,  where  there  is  a  lake.  We  then  reach  (2  hrs.)  Marhatdt 
with  an  old  dilapidated  khan  and  a  deep  well,  and  in  2  hrs.  more 
the  large  village  of  Ma' arret  en-No'man  (ca.  5900inhab.),  situated 
on  a  hill  and  named  after  No'man  Ibn  Beshir,  a  companion  of 
Mohammed.  In  1099  the  Crusaders  destroyed  this  town,  which  they 
called  Marra.  The  castle,  Kal'at  en-No'man,  is  in  ruins.  The  en- 
virons are  well  cultivated,   even  figs  and  pistachios  thriving  here. 

Beyond  Ma'arret  en-No'man  the  next  point  of  any  importance 
is  (6'/2  hrs.)  Sermin,  containing  numerous  cisterns  and  wells  hewn 
in  the  rock.  To  the  S.E.  of  the  village  are  artificial  rock-caverns. 
Most  of  the  houses  in  the  N.  Syrian  villages  have  conical  roofs  (see 
p.  367),  but  subterranean  dwellings  also  occur,  ancient  tomb- 
chambers  and  cisterns  having  frequently  been  utilized  for  the  pur- 
pose. —  Beyond  Sermin  we  traverse  an  extensive  and  dreary  desert 

23* 


MHVH  HH9MS99P 


370 


Route  45. 


KAL'AT  EL-MUDIK. 


to  (5^2  hrs.)  Ma' arret  el-lkhwan,  a  miserable  village,  with  inhospit- 
able inhabitants.  The  route  follows  the  telegraph-wires  and  enters 
a  fertile  plain  near  (1  hr.)  the  village  of  Kandtir.  (To  the  left, 
!/2  hr.  distant,  is  Herddeh.)  In  2  hrs.  20  min.  we  reach  the  vjlley 
of  the  Kuweik,  on  a  height  beyond  which  stands  the  Khan  TUmdn, 
near  a  village  of  that  name,  named  after  Tuman,  one  of  the  Mame- 
luke sultans.  After  1  hr.  25  min.  we  perceive  the  minarets  and 
the  citadel  of  Aleppo,  and  from  a  height,  farther  on,  the  town  itself 
becomes  visible.  After  50  min.  we  pass  Ansdri,  and  crossing  the 
Nahr  Kuweik  reach  the  S.  gate  of  Aleppo  (p.  373)  in  */2  hr.  more. 
There  is  a  carriage-road  from  Haina  to  El-Lddikiyeh  fp.  356). 


From  Harna  to  Riha,  via  Kal  at  el-Mudik  and  El-Bara. 

Fro.M  Hi'tna  to  Kal'at  el-TVhiflik  (escort  nnco.ssary  to  this  point)  is  a 
ride  of  8'/4  hrs.,  thence  to  El-Bdra  T'/i  hrs.  The  direct  route  from  El  Bara 
to  Jlihd  takes  33/4  hrs.,  but  the  detour  via  the  Ruins  of  Jebel  ez-Zdwiyeh 
takes' 5  hrs.  more. 

The  route  ascends  a  steep  slope  on  the  W.  side  of  the  town,  and  leads 
across  a  wide,  cultivated  plain  towards  the  W.  to  (l3/4  hr.)  Tizin.  We 
now  turn  to  the  N.,  and  in  40  min.  reach  Ke/relUn.  We  cross  an  affluent 
of  the  Orontes  by  the  four-arched  Jisr  el-Mejdel  ('tower  bridge'),  near 
which  are  some  ruins.  After  about  1  hr.  we  pass  Emhurdi,  which  lies 
1/i  hr.  to  the  right.  In  25  min.  more  the  route  again  enters  the  broad 
plain  of  the  Orontes.  On  the  N.  end  of  the  rocky  slope  by  which  the 
valley  is  bounded  on  the  E.  stands  Kal'at  Seijar  (formerly  Sheizar),  occu- 
pying the  site  of  the  ancient  town  of '  Lai-isa,  founded  (or  at  least  restored) 
by  Seleucus  Nicator.  The  present  village  lies  inside  the  walls  of  the 
large  castle.  The  Orontes  issues  here  from  a  narrow,  rocky  gorge,  and 
we  cross  it  by  a  bridge.  We  next  reach  (2  hrs.)  Heydlin,  and  O/2  hr.)  — 
Kal'at  el-Mudik  (accommodation  at  the  house  of  the  Sheikh)  a  village 
prettily  situated  in"  the  marshy  valley  of  the  Orontes  (El-Qhdb  el-Udle/i), 
which  is  here  4  M.  in  width  and  is  covered  with  rich  meadows.  The  in- 
habitants are  poor,  half-caste  Beduins,  who  are  much  exposed  to  the 
predatory  incursions  of  the  Nosairiyeh.  Kalrat  el-Hudlk  occupies  the 
site  of  the  citadel  of  the  Greek  town  of  Apdmea,  which  was  so  named  by 
Seleucus  after  his  Persian  wife  Apame.  The  place  was  originally  called 
Phamake,  and  is  said  to  have  been  named  Pellet  by  the  companions  of 
Alexander.  Apamea  was  one  of  the  great  centres  of  the  Seleucidian  king- 
dom, and  contained  the  war-treasury  and  national  stud  (30,000  mares  and 
300  stallions).  The  castle  was  destroyed  by  Ponipey.  The  town  after- 
wards became  an  episcopal  see,  but  in  the  7th  cent,  it  was  burned  to  the 
ground  by  Chosroes  II.  Arabian  authors  call  the  town  Fdmia  or  Afdmiya. 
In  1152  it  was  destroyed  by  an  earthquake.  —  The  present  village  lies 
within  the  Arabian  castle.  The  shapeless  Rujns  of  tub  Ancient  City 
lie  to  the  N.  of  the  castle.  From  the  N.  gate  of  the  town  a  Street  of 
Columns,  138  ft.  wide,  ran  towards  the  S.,  consisting  of  1800  columns, 
30  ft-  in  height.  The  shafts  of  the  columns  are  of  different  forms  and  sizes. 
On  each  side  of  the  colonnades  are  niche-like  spaces,  and  a  number  of 
portals  are  still  standing.  About  the  middle  of  the  colonnade,  near  its 
intersection  with  another  columnar  street,  arc  the  ruins  of  a  large  building. 
Beyond  Kal'at  el-Mudik  the  route  traverses  a  necropolis,  then  leads 
to  the  N.W.'  On  the  left  (1>/j  hr.)  we  perceive  a  building  resembling  a 
lower,  standing  on  a  hill,  at  the  foot  of  which  are  several  oval  reser- 
voirs. We  soon  enter  the  district  of  the  Jebel  ez-Zdwiyeh  or  Jebel  el-Arba'in 
('mount  of  the  forty  martyrs'),  or  Jebel  Rthd.  as  it  is  sometimes  called, 
after  the  village  of  that  name  (p.  372).  Among  these  hills  lie  very  numerous 
remains    of   ancient    towns    and    churches.     The   rough    path    ascends    a 


EL-RARA. 


45.  Route.    371 


valley,  and  after  l'/j  lir.  descends  into  a  basin.  In  H/2  hr.  we  reach 
Teifileh,  with  the  remains  of  an  old  church.  We  next  pass  Seburrd  and 
(3/4  hr.)  Fatireh.  To  the  left,  after  1  hr.,  we  observe  the  Kal'at  Jidar; 
to  the  right,  extensive  ruins.  The  route  leads  to  the  N.  through  a  valley 
which  gradually  contracts  to  a  gorge,  passes  through  (1  hr.  20  min.)  the 
deserted  town  of  ifujdeleia,  with  well-preserved  houses  (stables,  tombs, 
church),  and  reaches  ('/«  hr.)  the  squalid  village  of  — 

El-Bara,  situated  in  a  dreary  valley.  It  was  once  a  fortified  town, 
which  was  captured  by  the  Crusaders  in  1098  and  made  an  episcopal  see. 
In  1104  and  1123  the  town   was   attacked  and  destroyed  by  the  Muslims. 

The  very  extensive  Rums  of  the  ancient  town  are  interesting  owing 
to  the  preservation  of  numerous  streets  and  dwelling-houses.  These  old 
buildings  scattered  throughout  the  Jebel  ez-Zawiyeh  (p.  370)  date  from 
the  5-7th  cent,  after  Christ,  and  are  pretty  uniform  in  style.  Although 
the  details  of  many  of  them  are  imperfect,  and  their  forms  sometimes 
unpleasing,  they  undoubtedly  show  a  lively  artistic  sense  and  a  dignified 
treatment  of  their  materials,  while  many  reminiscences  of  the  classical 
style  of  architecture  may  be  detected.  The  pavement  of  the  narrow  streets 
is  constructed  of  large  polygonal  blocks.  The  houses  have  no  opening 
to  the  street  except  their  doors.  The  square  or  arched  doorway  leads 
into  an  oblong  court,  which  is  generally  of  irregular  form.  On  one  side, 
but  in  the  case  of  monasteries  probably  on  two  sides ,  the  court  was 
flanked  with  arcades  in  two  stories,  behind  which  lay  suites  of  apart- 
ments of  moderate  size.  Both  stories  of  these  arcades  were  generally 
adorned  with  columns,  the  lower  being  lofty  and  of  slender  proportions, 
while  the  upper  were  heavier  and  furnished,  moreover,  with  a  balus- 
trade of  slabs  of  stone.  Each  story  terminated  in  horizontal  beams,  the 
upper  of  which  bore  a  gabled  roof.  The  capitals  of  the  columns  are  very 
varied  in  form,  the  calyx  shape  being  the  commonest.  The  masonry 
of  the  houses  is  singularly  substantial.  Some  of  the  stones  are  nearly  15  ft. 
long,  and  mortar  has  never  been  used.  The  portals  and  other  parts  of 
the  buildings  are  richly  adorned  with  vine-leaves,  acanthus,  vases  with 
peacocks,  and  the  like.  Crosses,  Christian  emblems,  and  monograms  also 
occur  (thus  a  and  id).  Balconies  in  some  cases  project  from  the  facades. 
The  doors  and  windows  leading  into  the  arcades  are  often  adjoined  by 
niches.  In  the  construction  of  these  houses  wood  has  never  been  used 
except  for  the  roofs.  The  vine-culture  seems  to  have  been  extensively 
carried  on  in  the  Jebel  ez-Zawiyeh  district,  and  some  of  the  ruins  are 
still  overgrown  with  vines. 

The  town  of  El-Bara  consists  of  a  S.  and  a  W.  quarter.  The  former 
contains  the  ruin3  of  two  churches  and  a  chapel,  and  a  pile  of  ecclesi- 
astical buildings.  A  street  leads  hence  to  the  necropolis,  to  the  N.  of  the 
town.  On  the  hill  between  the  two  quarters  stands  a  well-preserved 
villa  of  two  stories,  with  verandahs.  At  the  back  of  it  are  columns, 
placed  in  the  form  of  a  quadrangle,  which  once  bore  a  roof  to  form  a 
canopy  for  the  sarcophagi  below.  —  The  W.  quarter  of  the  town  also 
contains  the  ruins  of  two  churches,  the  larger  of  which  stands  below  an 
old  Saracenic  castle.  To  the  S.W.  of  this  quarter,  and  separated  from  it 
by  a  ravine,  is  the  Necropolis.  Three  of  the  monuments,  each  consisting  of 
a  cubical  basement  bearing  a  pyramid,  are  worthy  of  careful  inspection. 
The  pyramids  are  hollow  up  to  the  top.  On  the  outside  of  some  of  the 
stones  pointed  bosses  have  been  left.  A  door  leads  into  the  interior  of 
these  tombs,  along  the  walls  of  which  the  sarcophagi  were  arranged. 
There  are  also  interesting  rock-tombs  in  the  necropolis,  one  of  the  best- 
preserved  of  which  is  in  the  S.  slope  of  the  gorge.  It  is  about  15  ft. 
square,  and  is  entered  by  a  vestibule  with  two  columns.  In  each  of  the 
three  walls  are  two  tomb-niches. 

The  Environs  of  El-Bara  are  strewn  with  similar  ruins.  In  every 
direction  we  come  upon  empty  houses,  so  admirably  preserved  as  to 
require  nothing  but  a  wooden  roof  to  render  them  habitable.  Everything 
indicates  that  the  former  inhabitants  must  have  possessed  great  wealth  and 
taste.    The  soil  is  still  fertile. 


■91 


372    Route  45. 


RUWEIHA. 


One  of  the  finest  groups  of  ruins  is  that  of  Khirbet  Hiss,  about  1  hr. 
to  the  S.E.  of  El-Bara.  Among  the  huildings  here  is  a  large  Basilica  with 
seven  pairs  of  columns.  This  church,  like  many  others  of  the  same 
character,  not  only  has  three  entrances  at  the  W.  end.  but  each  aisle  has 
also  two  lateral  doorways,  each  of  which  is  approached  by  a  porch  resting 
on  two  columns.  Adjoining  the  choir,  which  is  rounded  in  the  interior, 
but  does  not  project  beyond  the  nave,  are  two  square  chambers.  A  smaller 
basilica  also  still  exists  here.  The  Necropolis  of  Khirbet  Hass  is  particularly 
interesting.  A  handsome  mausoleum  with  a  pediment  and  rock-niches  is 
still  preserved  here.  Two  of  the  rock-tombs  are  approached  by  inclined 
planes  which  descend  to  the  entrances.  —  The  neighbouring  village  of 
Hass  also  contains  a  basilica  with  a  portico.  This  church  possesses  large 
arched  windows  and  quadrangular  apses  which  project  beyond  the  nave 
and  aisles.  The  Necropolis  of  Hass  contains  a  very  handsome  monument 
to  a  certain  Diogenes,  dating  from  the  4th  century.  The  beautiful  stone 
portal  which  leads  into  the  interior  of  the  cubical  substructure  is  ap- 
proached by  a  porch.  The  second  story  of  the  cube  is  surrounded  with  a 
peristyle,  above  which  rises  a  pyramid  with  bosses. 

About  1  hr.  to  the  N.  of  Hass,  and  1  hr.  to  the  E.  of  El-Bara,  lies 
Serjilla,  where  baths,  churches,  and  numerous  dwelling-houses  are  pre- 
served. One  of  the  tomb-monuments  consists  of  a  square  structure  with 
a  gabled  roof.  On  the  surface  of  the  rock  are  seen  large  monolithic  slabs 
which  form  the  lids  of  sarcophagi  let  into  the  rock,  or  cover  the  stair- 
cases descending  into  tomb-chambers.  (Deir  Sambil,  to  the  N.W.  of  Ser- 
jilla, also  possesses  ruins  and  tombs.)  —  From  Serjilla  we  may  proceed 
farther  to  the  E.  to  (D/4  hr.)  the  ruins  of  Deir  Darin,  a  beautiful  monastery, 
and  (3/4  hr.)  Ma' arret  en-No'mdn  (p.  369). 

About  1  hr.  to  the  K.N.W.  of  Ma'arrct  en-No'man  are  situated  the  ruins 
of  Dana.  A  fine  mausoleum  here  possesses  a  porch  of  four  columns.  Near 
it  is  the  monument  of  a  certain  Olympus,  consisting  of  four  somewhat  rude 
columns  which  form  a  square  for  the  support  of  the  canopy  over  a  tomb. 
—  Farther  to  the  N.  (1  hr.)  are  the  extensive  ruins  of  Ruweiha.  The 
church,  dating  from  the  4th  cent.,  is  a  Basilica  borne  by  pillars.  The  two 
low  piers,  one  on  each  side  of  the  nave,  are  connected  by  means  of  bold 
arcades  and  transverse  arches  thrown  across  the  nave.  The  apse  is  semi- 
circular in  the  interior  and  rectangular  on  the  exterior.  To  the  right  of 
the  church  is  a  tomb-monument  of  a  certain  Bizzos,  with  a  portal  borne 
by  columns.  The  corner-pilasters  do  not  bear  an  entablature,  but  have 
a  fluted  cornice  placed  over  them.  To  the  left  of  the  church  stands  an 
elegant  mausoleum  in  the  form  of  a  small  ancient  temple  with  a  porch 
'in  antis.' 

From  Ruweiha  we  may  next  proceed  to  the  N.W.  to  (1V4  hr.)  Muntif, 
situated  at  the  base  of  the  Jebel  Riha,  whence  we  may  go  on  to  (8/4  hr.) 
Kafr  Ldta,  which  is  surrounded  by  extensive  burial-grounds.  Both  to  the 
W.  and  E.  of  the  village  are  to  be  found  numerous  sarcophagi  and  tomb- 
grottoes  hewn  in  the  rock.  The  narrow  valley  on  the  N.  side  of  the  vil- 
lage contains  a  spring  within  a  dome-covered  monument,  borne  by  four 
columns.  On  the  N.  side  of  the  valley  is  a  large  quadrangular  space 
hewn  in  the  rock,  with  niches  in  its  sides  and  a  large  stone  sarcophagus 
in  the  middle.  ^Farther  to  the  E.  is  a  similar  square  space  with  sarcophagi 
and  tomb-chambers. 

From  Kafr  Lata  we  may  go  on  in  3/t  hr.  to  Riha,  a  small  town  with 
3000  inhab.,  beautifully  situated  at  the  N.  base  of  the  Jebel  el-Arba'in 
(p.  370),  in  the  midst  of  olive-plantations.  To  the  N.W.  of  Riha,  which 
is  reached  from  El-Bara  (p.  371)  direct  in  33/4  hrs.,  extends  'the  Jebel 
Jihazrejiyeh,  by  which  the  valley  of  the  Orontes  is  bounded.  From  Riha 
to  Eermin  (p.  3G9)  direct  is  a  ride  of  3  hrs.  (From  Seraiiu  to  Aleppo, 
HVz  hrs.,  see  pp.  369,  370.) 

From  RIha  to  Dana  via  the  Jebel  el-'Ala,  9-10  hrs.  Crossing  the 
Tell  SlUmd,  w'e  ride  towards  the  N.  to  (2'/2  hrs.)  Jdlib,  the  flourishing  capital 
of  the  Kada.  of  Idlib,  containing  a  few  Christians  among  its  inhabitants. 
The  route' then  leads  N.N.W.  to    (2-3  hrs.)  the  village  of  Harbanvsh  in  the 


KALB  IJ&ZEH. 


45.  Route.    373 


Jehel  el- Aid.  which,  however,  must  not  he  confounded  with  the  mountains 
of  that  name  already  mentioned  (p.  369).  —  About  V«  nr-  to  tlie  N.  of  this 
point  lies  Deir  Seita,  where  there  are  some  fine  ruins  of  dwelling-houses, 
and  that  of  a  basilica  with  a  quintuple  row  of  columns,  and  remains  of 
a  hexagonal  baptistery.  —  To  the  N.W.  of  Deir  Seita,  about  l/t  hr.  distant, 
is  Bakvta,  which  contains  a  ruined  basilica  of  the  6th  century.  This  church 
has  a  porch  with  two  columns,  and  small  porches  at  the  side-entrances. 
The  apse  of  the  nave  projects  in  semicircular  form  externally,  and  has 
three  windows.  —  About  1/2  hr.  to  the  N.W.  of  Bakuza  lies  Kokandya, 
where  we  again  meet  with  admirably  preserved  houses,  and  a  chapel  of 
the  6th  cent,  adorned  with  rosettes  and  many  other  enrichments.  In  the 
vicinity  are  several  sarcophagi  and  a  monument  with  pyramidal  top  (halt 
destroyed).  —  We  may  next  visit  Beshindeldya,  1  hr.  to  the  N.  of  Kokanaya, 
where  we  find  the  tomb  of  Tib.  CI.  Sosandros,  completed  April  27th,  134, 
the  earliest  of  the  dated  tombs  of  N.  Syria.  It  consists  of  a  plain  chamber 
borne  by  pillars  of  Doric  tendency,  with  an  architrave  covered  with  in- 
scriptions, and  a  frieze  adorned  with  bulls1  heads  and  festoons.  Adjacent 
to  the  tomb  rises  a  lofty  memorial  pillar,  surmounted  by  a  figurative  re- 
presentation in  a  shallow  niche.  —  Kafr  Kileh,  which  lies  about  20  min. 
to  the  N.E.  of  Beshindelaya,  possesses  another  fine  basilica,  the  pillared 
portal  of  which  has  a  very  rich  architrave.  From  Kafr  Kileh  we  may 
proceed  to  the  N.  to  (21/2  hrs.)  the  castle  of  Hdrim  (p.  382).  —  Kalb  Luzeh, 
V2  hr.  to  the  N.  of  Kafr  Kileh,  contains  a  basilica  borne  by  piers,  dating 
from  the  6th  cent.,  and  one  of  the  finest  churches  in  N.  Syria.  The  large 
arched  portal  has  fallen.  The  piers  in  the  interior  are  low  and  massive. 
In  the  nave,  above  the  arches,  is  a  series  of  square  windows.  Most  of  the 
small  columns  which  once  stood  between  these  windows  have  disappeared, 
but  their  corbels  and  those  of  the  roof-beams  have  been  preserved.  The 
choir,  which  is  approached  by  a  flight  of  steps,  is  particularly  fine.  The 
semicircular  apse  is  adorned  with  a  double  row  of  mural  columns. 
Above  the  capitals  are  corbels,  while  others  have  been  introduced  between 
the  columns.  These  corbels  bear  the  corona  of  the  small  roof,  above 
which  rises  the  projecting  gable  of  the  nave.  —  About  10  min.  to  the  N. 
of  Kalb  Luzeh  lies  Behio,  where  another  basilica  and  some  fine  rock- 
hewn  olive-presses  may  be  examined.  —  From  Kalb  Luzeh  we  now  ride 
K.N.E.  to  (2>/2  hrs.)  Sermada,  which  possesses  a  sepulchral  monument,  con- 
sisting of  two  columns  connected  by  an  entablature  and  also  by  a  small 
cross-beam  two-thirds  of  the  way  up.  —  About  3/«  hr.  to  the  N.  of  Sermada 
we  at  length  reach  Ddnd  (p.  381),   on   the   way  from  Aleppo  to  Antioch, 


46.  Aleppo. 

Accommodation.  Hotel  d'Aziziteh  (PI.  a;  C,  1),  Hotel  Bellevue(P1.  b  ; 
C,  1),  Hotel  du  1'ako  (PI.  C;  C,  2),  all  three  in  the  suburb  of  'Aziziyeh 
(p.  375),  pens.  5-7  fr.,  wine  extra. 

Bankers.  Agency  of  the  Banque  Ottomane  (PI.  D,  3;  p.  xi) ;  Zollinger 
&  Co.,  Vincenzo  Marcopoli  &  Co.  —  Rate  of  Exchange :  Turkish  pound  127  pi. ; 
Napoleon  111  pi.  5  [Sovereign  139  pi.;  Mejidi  23  pi.  25  pa. 

Post  Office  (PI.  20;  D,  E,  3).  The  Turkish  post  dispatches  the  mails 
by  courier  to  Alcxandretta  to  catch  the  various  steamers.  Overland  post 
to  Damascus  on  the  arrival  of  the  overland  mail  from  Constantinople.  — 
International  Telegraph  Office,  at  the  Serai. 

Consulates.  British  (PI.  8;  C,  1),  S.  D.  Barnham;  United  Slates,  Poche 
(agent);  Austrian  (PI.  C,  1),  A.  Xanthopoulo  (vice-consul);  French  (PI.  9; 
C,  D,  3),  Arnould;  German  (PI.  7:  C,  i),  Dr.  Buege  (vice-consul);  Holland,  A. 
Poche  (vice-consul);  Italian  (PI.  10;  C,  3),  A.  Sola  (vice-consul);  Portugal,  A. 
Marcopoli;  Russian  (PI.  11;  C,  1),  A.   T.  Kruglow;  Spain,  Q.  Marcopoli. 

Physicians.  Dr.  Allounyan;  Dr.  Samuel;  Dr.  Zacriemlty.  Each  physi- 
cian has  his  own  dispensary. 

Antiquities  (especially   coins)   are   both  rare   and   expensive  at  Aleppo. 


BSK    JJflUi  UHMMB  HNNHHNN| 


374    Route  46. 


ALEPPO. 


Population. 


Aleppo  (1215  ft."),  situated  in  36°  11'  32"  N.  latitude,  stands 
on  a  plain,  surrounded  by  hills,  on  the  verge  of  the  desert.  Through 
the  N.W.  part  of  the  city  flows  the  Kuweik  (Kououe'ik),  the  Chains 
of  Xenophon,  which  rises  several  days' journey  to  the  N.  of  Aleppo, 
and  loses  itself  in  a  morass  (el-Matkh)  about  51/q  ^rs-  to  *he  S.  of  it. 
This  river,  which  contains  fine  eels  and  numerous  other  fish,  is 
bordered  near  the  town  by  orchards,  containing  ashes,  maples, 
planes,  silver-poplars,  the  nebk,  the  sumach,  the  walnut,  the  quince, 
and  also  olive-trees.  A  few  leagues  to  the  N.,  where  the  river 
irrigates  the  plain  of  Killis,  the  vegetation  is  very  luxuriant.  Three 
kinds  of  soil  are  distinguished  in  the  neighbourhood  of  the  town  : 
the  sandy  alluvial  soil  of  the  valley ;  the  bright  brick-red  earth  in 
which  wheat  and  the  pistachio  thrive  admirably;  and  the  black 
loam  which  crumbles  and  turns  to  dust  as  soon  as  dry.  The  Phtacia 
Vera  flourishes  especially  on  the  hills  to  the  E.  of  Aleppo  and 
yields  a  large  and  valuable  harvest.  The  Emperor  Vitellius  iin- 
poitcd  pistachios  from  this  region.  The  corn  harvest  takes  place  at 
the  end  of  May.  Near  'AintSb,  to  the  N.  of  Aleppo,  much  wine  is 
produced.  Salt  is  brought  to  Aleppo  from  the  great  salt-lakes  near 
Jebbul,  to  the  E.  and  S.E.  The  town  receives  its  drinking-water 
partly  from  the  river  and  partly  by  means  of  a  conduit  from  Heildn, 
3  hrs.  to  the  N.  The  winter  climate  is  so  raw  that  orange-trees  do 
not  flourish  here ;  snow  and  frost  are  not  uncommon.  The  heat  of 
summer  is  tempered  by  cool  westerly  breezes. 

To  causes  at  present  unknown  is  ascribable  the  'Aleppo  boil'  Qiabh 
fjaleb;  or  habb  es-seneh,  'boil  of  a  year'),  a  skin-disease  which  prevails  in 
this  region,  and  even  extends  hence  to  Persia.  The  eruption,  though  not 
painful,  is  very  disfiguring,  as,  when  healed,  it  leaves  permanent  scars 
behind,  sometimes  as  large  as  a  dollar.  Natives,  foreigners,  and  even  dogs 
and  cats,  are  all  subject  to  the  malady,  and  visitors  are  sometimes  attacked 
by  it  long  after  they  have  left  the  place.  No  remedy  for  the  disease  has 
yet  been  discovered. 

Aleppo  is  the  chief  town  of  a  vilayet  embracing  the  whole  of 
N.  Syria  as  far  as  the  Euphrates.  The  Population  of  the  town  is 
estimated  at  180,000,  of  whom  120,000  are  Muslims,  12,000  Greeks, 
12,000  Jews,  and  about  4000  Armenians,  while  the  remainder  in- 
cludes United  Armenians  ,  Marouites ,  and  Syrian  Catholics.  The 
English  have  established  a  small  Protestant  community  here. 
Each  of  the  religious  communities  has  a  school  of  its  own.  There 
is  also  a  school  of  the  Franciscans  of  the  Terra  Sancta,  and  a 
girls'  school  managed  by  the  Sisterhood  of  St.  Joseph.  The  Alep- 
pines  speak  an  Arabic  dialect  varying  little  from  that  of  the  rest 
of  Syria,  but  Turkish  is  more  frequently  used  here  than  at  Damas- 
cus, as  the  boundary-line  between  the  two  languages  passes  only 
25  M.  to  the  N.  of  Aleppo.  The  Aleppines  do  not  enjoy  a  very 
high  reputation,  and  the  expression  'el-halebi  jelebV  (the  Aleppine 
is  a  'swell')  is  proverbial.  Aleppo  contains  a  much  larger  European 
colony  than  Damascus,  and  in  consequence  of  its  long  connection 
with  the  West  the  town  is   much   less   Oriental   in   its   exterior 


:  n  II1 is  ^ 

■?l.  3;?   §•§.  §| 





IBBBBBHHhhHhmHHhhmhmhI 
RVP9  fflTHffHPB1WlWfffllW  WM 


:^^:<^f^\^^^;^A'4'rf'-^ft'w'V^*';*'»;J:^"' 


History. 


ALEPPO. 


46.  Route.   375 


characteristics.  Besides  the  European  residents  there  are  also  a 
number  >f  Levantines  (p.  lix).  The  native  industry  has  been  almost 
entirely  supplanted  by  the  European.  The  imports  include  all  kinds 
of  cloth  and  other  European  wares,  while  the  exports  consist  ex- 
clusively of  raw  products,  including  grain,  wool,  cotton  (the  culti- 
vation of  which  is  increasing"),  gall-nuts,  buckthorn-berries  (for 
dyeing),  gums,  manna,  scammony,  saffron,  sesame,  and  hides.  For 
native  consumption,  chiefly  in  the  Turkish  provinces,  silk  and  cotton 
stuffs,  embroidery,  and  leather-wares  are  still  manufactured  here. 
In  1902  the  value  of  its  exports  amounted  to  25,000,000  fr.  (wool 
21/g,  ewe-milk  butter  S1^,  hides  23/4,  native  textiles  23/4,  dried 
fruits  l*/2,  and  gall-nuts  l1^  millions),  that  of  the  imports  to 
58,500,000  fr.  (cotton  20,  woollen  and  mixed  goods  6,  silk  5,  and 
groceries  and  beverages  4  millions). 

The  Egyptian  monuments  testify  that  Aleppo  was  in  existence  two 
thousand  years  B.C.  Shahnaneser  mentions  it  in  864  B.C.  and  offered  sacri- 
fices there  to  the  god  Hadad.  Seleucus  Nicator  enlarged  the  town  and 
named  it  Beroea.  In  611  A.D.  the  Persian  King  Chosroes  II  burned  the  town. 
Berasa  surrendered  without  resistance  to  the  Arabs  under  Abu  'Ubeida 
(p.  298),  and  now  became  a  more  important  place  in  consequence  of  the 
destruction  of  the  neighbouring  Kinnesrin  (p.  377)  by  the  Arabs.  Seif 
ed-Dauleh,  the  Hamdanide  (936-967),  made  Haleb  his  residence.  In  961 
the  Byzantines  under  the  Emperor  Nicephorus  obtained  possession  of  the 
town  for  a  short  time,  but  were  unable  to  reduce  the  citadel.  Shortly 
after  this  came  the  troublous  times  of  the  Crusades.  In  1114  the  place 
was  destroyed  by  an  earthquake,  and  in  1124  it  was  unsuccessfully  be- 
sieged by  King  Baldwin.  In  1139  another  earthquake  visited  the  town. 
After  the  terrible  earthquake  of  1170  the  famous  Nureddin  (p.  lxxxiii)  rebuilt 
the  town  and  fortress.  In  1260  the  Mongols  under  Hulagu  destroyed  the 
town  aind  castle.  In  1280  Haleb  was  again  sacked  by  the  Mongols,  but 
soon  revived.  Under  the  supremacy  of  the  Mameluke  sultans  of  Egypt 
(p.  Ixx  xi  v)  Haleb  continued  to  be  the  capital  of  N.  Syria.  In  1400  the  Syrians 
were  defeated  by  Timur,  and  the  town  itself  was  destroyed.  In  151G 
the  T.'urkish  Sultan  Selim  put  an  end  to  the  Mameluke  supremacy,  and 
the  down  then  became  the  capital  of  a  vilayet  (p.  lvii).  At  the  beginning  of 
the  19)th  century  Aleppo  suffered  seriously  in  consequence  of  its  occupation 
by  tine  janizaries.  In  1822  two -thirds  of  the  town  were  destroyed  by  an 
eartlnq  uuke.  The  place  was  visited  by  another  earthquake  in  1830.  Under 
the  Egyptian  supremacy  (1831-40)  the  town  again  prospered,  as  Ibrahim 
Pashai   constituted  it  his  headquarters. 

T'h  ese  frequent  destructions  naturally  left  no  survival  of  the  old 
Beroeia..  For  its  repeated  recovery  from  its  misfortunes  Aleppo  is  chiefly 
indeb)te;d  to  its  situation  on  the  route  of  the  caravan  traffic  to  Persia  and 
India,,  and  it  has  long  carried  on  a  brisk  trade  in  silk,  spices,  linen,  cloth, 
jewelis  ,  and  other  goods.  The  French  and  the  Venetians  possessed  fac- 
tories 1  here  at  an  early  period.  Towards  the  end  of  the  16th  cent.,  during 
the  reeign  of  Queen  Elizabeth,  the  English  also  established  a  factory  and 
a  con.'siulate  at  Aleppo.  The  discovery  of  the  Cape  route  to  India  proved 
detrimnental  to  the  caravan-traffic,  and  at  the  same  time  to  the  prosperity 
of  Aleep>po,  but  several  European  firms  continued  to  thrive.  Among  the 
Britisih  residents  in  the  17th  and  18th  centuries  were  Henry  Maundrell, 
authorr  of  'A  Journey  from  Aleppo  to  Jerusalem'  and  Dr.  Russell,  who  wrote 
a  'Nattmral  History  of  Aleppo'.    The  Dutch  also  possessed  a  factory  here. 

TTlne  modern  town  is  unfortified  and  consists  of  several  quarters 
and  ski  burbs.  In  theN.W.  part  are  the  suburbs  of  Tellal  and 'Asbftyeh 
(PL  (C,  1).    and   the  Salibeh   quarter  (PL  C,  D,  2),    inhabited    by 


■H 


376    Route  46. 


ALEPPO. 


Christians.  Several  handsome  schools  in  the  European  style  and 
churches  have  heen  erected  here.  Salibeh  is  bounded  on  the  N.  and 
E.  by  the  El-Jedeideh  quarter  (PI.  D,  2),  occupied  by  a  mixed  popu- 
lation. The  small  W.  suburb  of  El-Kittub  (PI.  B,  C,  2),  on  the  right 
bank  of  the  Kuweik,  contains  an  exclusively  Christian -Levantine 
population.  The  Jewish  Quarter  (Bahsita;  PI.  C,  D,  2)  lies  to  the  S. 
of  Salibeh.  The  streets  are  clean,  well  paved,  and  generally  provided 
with  side-walks.  A  characteristic  feature  is  the  numerous  passages 
with  pointed  arches.  The  houses,  which  are  mostly  one-storied,  are 
built  of  solid  stone,  and  their  courts  are  usually  handsome  in  a  simple 
style.  The  wholesale  trade  of  the  town  is  concentrated  in  its  spacious 
Khans,  one  of  the  finest  of  which  (PI.  Q,  3)  stands  to  the  right  of  the 
W.  entrance  to  the  bazaar.  On  the  W.  side  is  still  to  be  seen  a  well- 
preserved  wall  with  towers,  belonging  to  the  old  fortifications. 

The  Citadel  (PI.  D,  E,  3)  stands  in  the  middle  of  the  town,  on 
a  hill  of  apparently  artificial  origin,  surrounded  by  a  deep  moat, 
which  can  be  filled  with  water.    Visitors  are  seldom  admitted. 

The  foundations  of  the  citadel  are  certainly  very  ancient,  and  it  is 
even  asserted  that  the  whole  of  ancient  Beroea  once  lay  on  this  hill.  Arabian 
authors  affirm  that  the  hill  is  supported  by  8000  columns.  Down  to  1822 
the  hill  was  partially  occupied  by  dwelling-houses.  We  cross  a  handsome 
bridge  of  a  single  arch,  and  enter  an  outer  tower,  with  tasteful  enrich- 
ments in  iron  on  the  door.  A  viaduct  next  leads  to  a  vestibule.  Over 
the  strong  iron  door  on  the  right  are  sculptured  basilisks.  The  inscrip- 
tions by  Melik  ez-Zahir  date  from  605  of  the  Hcgira  (1209}.  By  the  sides 
of  the  second  door  are  leopards1  heads  carved  on  the  stone.  We  now  reach 
a  plateau  within  the  walls,  which  is  covered  with  a  mass  of  ruins.  The 
direction  of  several  streets  is  traceable,  and  a  number  of  arches  still  exist. 
In  the  middle  of  this  space  is  a  large  vault,  partially  hewn  in  the  rock, 
with  a  roof  borne  by  four  columns  built  into  the  walls.  This  subterranean 
chamber  seems  to  have  been  a  cistern.  The  finest  view  is  enj.oyed  from 
the  top  of  the  minaret.  —  On  the  N.W.  side  of  the  citadel  are  two  interest- 
ing old  cannons,  consisting  of  iron  rings  soldered  together  with  lead. 

The  Bazaar  (PI.  D,  3)  consists  of  a  number  of  handsome,  clean 
streets  roofed  with  stone  (or,  in  a  few  cases,  with  wood).  The  wares 
are  mostly  of  European  manufacture.  The  air-holes  in  the  roof  have 
shades  drawn  over  them  by  cords  when  the  sun  shines. 

To  the  left,  not  far  from  the  W.  entrance  to  the  bazaar,  a  street 
diverges  to  the  Great  Mosque  (Jam?  Zakar'tyd;  PI.  6,  D  3),  which 
occupies  the  site  of  a  church  ascribed  to  the  Empress  Helena. 

This  mosque  is  sometimes  called  J&mi'  el-Umawi  from  having  been 
built  by  the  Omayyades,  and  it  is  said  to  have  resembled  the  great  mosque 
of  Damascus.  In  1169  it  was  burned  down  by  the  Ismarilians  (p.  lxxii), 
and  thereafter  rebuilt  by  Nureddin  (p.  875}.  It  was  again  destroyed  by 
the  Mongols.  The  minaret,  which  rises  at  the  N.W.  angle  of  the  court 
to  a  height  of  about  180  ft.,  dates  from  12S0.  Three  sides  of  the  large 
court  are  flanked  with  colonnades.  The  mosque  itself,  situated  on  the 
S.  side  of  the  court,  is  divided  into  two  parts  by  a  wooden  screen,  the 
smaller  section  being  used  for  daily  prayer,  the  larger  being  set  apart  for 
the  sermon  on  Fridays.  The  'Tomb  of  Zacharias',  the  father  of  John  the 
Baptist,  to  the  possession  of  which  Samaria  and  other  places  in  Syria 
also  lay  claim,  is  enclosed  by  a  handsome  gilded  railing. 


KINNESRIN. 


40.  Route.   377 


Opposite  the  Great  Mosque  rises  the  Jami'  el-Halawlyeh  (PI.  1 ; 
D.  3),  an  ancient  church  attributed  to  the  Empress  Helena,  over 
the  entrance  to  which  there  is  a  handsome  stone  hearing  a  Maltese 
cross.  In  the  interior  are  pilasters  with  acanthus  capitals,  and  a 
cornice  of  the  same  character. 

The  large  Synagogue  in  the  Jewish  quarter  deserves  inspection. 
In  the  centre  is  a  court  flanked  with  arcades.  The  Hebrew  in- 
scriptions here  do  not  seem  ancient,  although  the  custodian  de- 
clares the  building  to  be  thousands  of  years  old. 

Near  the  Bab  el-Makdm  (PI.  D,  4),  in  the  S.  quarter  of  the  town, 
are  several  rock-caverns,  most  of  which  were  probably  once  quarries. 

In  the  S.  wall  of  the  Jami'  el-Kikaneh  (PI.  C,  3)  is  a  block  of 
basalt  bearing  an  inscription  in  the  Hittite  hieroglyphic  character 
(p.  369). 

A  ride  to  the  N.  of  the  town  is  recommended,  past  the  dervish 
monastery  of  Sheikhu  Bekr  (PI.  E,  1)  and  to  the  orchards  on  the 
bank  of  the  Kuweik  (p.  374),  where  the  Aleppines  sometimes  spend 
whole  days  in  their  summer-houses. 

From  Aleppo  to  Kinnesrin,  ca.  blU  hrs.  The  road  leads  to  the  S.  via. 
(3  hrs.)  Khan  Ttim&n,  where  the  valley  expands;  ('/g  hr.)  Kal'ajiyeh,  (i/ghr.) 
Ztitdn,  (*/«  hr!)  Berna,  and  (i/j  hr.)  Nebi  'Is,  a  weli  built  among  the  ruins 
of  a  church  on  the  highest  hill  of  the  chain.  The  Ndhr  Kuweik  (p.  374) 
here  loses  itself  in  the  morass  of  El-Matkh.  Above  the  morass,  on  a  ter- 
race of  the  hills  facing  the  S.,  are  situated  the  ruins  of  — 

Kinnesrin  (Turk.  Eski  Ilaleb,  i.e.  Old  Aleppo).  Kinnesrin  ('eagle's  nest') 
was  the  ancient,  and  became  afterwards  the  modern,' Arabic  name  of  Chalcis, 
which  was  founded  by  Seleucus  Nicator  and  afterwards  became  a  frontier- 
town  of  the  empire  towards  Persia  and  towards  Arabia.  The  inhabitants 
saved  the  town  from  being  plundered  by  the  Persians  by  paying  200  pounds 
of  gold  to  Chosroes.  In  629  the  town  was  captured  and  destroyed  by  Abif 
'Ubeida  (p.  298),  after  which  it  acquired  great  importance  as  a  military 
colony  and  the  capital  of  N.  Syria.  As  Aleppo  increased  in  importance, 
however,  Kinnesrin  gradually  declined,  especially  when  the  great  caravan- 
route  was  "altered  and  ceased  to  pass  the  town.  In  961,  when  the  Em- 
peror Nicephorus  took  possession  of  Aleppo,  the  inhabitants  of  Kinnesrin 
abandoned   their  town.     In  the  13th  cent,  the  place  was  nearly  deserted. 

The  shapeless  Iiuint  consist  of  large  fragments  of  massive  walls,  over 
6  ft.  in  thickness.  On  the  S.E.  side  are  remains  of  a  square  tower.  On 
a  hill  to  the  N.E.  stands  a  ruined  castle  with  subterranean  vaults.  The 
rocks  here  contain  numerous  tomb-grottoes. 

From  Kinnesrin  we  may  reach  Sermin  (p.  369),  on  the  road  to  llama, 
in  6  hrs. 


From  Aleppo  to  KaFat  Sim'in. 

73A  hrs.  The  traveller  who  has  no  dragoman  should  make  sure  that 
his  JIukari  knows  the  way.  Travelling  is  sometimes  rendered  unsafe  by 
the  nomadic  Kurds  and  Turcomans  who  range  through  the  greater  part 
of  N.  Syria. 

Leaving  Aleppo,  we  follow  the  direction  of  the  telegraph-wires,  keep- 
ing them  a  little  to  our  left.  Picturesque  retrospect  of  Aleppo.  After 
1  hr.  35  min.  we  pass  to  the  left  of  the  village  of  Beleramlln,  beyond 
which  we  perceive  Kafr  Hamrd,  about  10  min.  below  us  on  the  right. 
We  next  see  (20  min.)  the  village  of  Ma'arrd  below  us,  and  Anada  in  the 
distance  to  the  right.  In  27  min.  more  we  perceive  a  pilgrimage-shrine  on 
a  hill.    Beyond  (V<  hr.)  Vakit,  on  the  left,  we  follow  the  (5  min.)  telegraph 


■■.■■■■---"■■■■■■-'■■■-■■■"■■■■'."■■■ 


378 


/JoM«e  i«. 


KAT/AT  SIM'AN. 


wires  towards  the  village  of  Busim.  The  barren  Jebel  Sim'dn  rises  on 
the  W.  To  the  N.E.,  40  min.  farther  on,  we  observe  a  pilgrimage-shr.ne, 
1/2  hr.  distant.  In  10  min.  more  we  come  to  the  ruined  village  of  Erkiieh, 
where  there  are  a  few  rock-tombs.  After  i0  min.  'Ain  Jdra  lies  opposite 
us  to  the  S.,  and  in  3/4  hr.  more  we  obtain  a  distant  view  of  the  village 
of  JJawdr,  to  the  S.S.W.  The  route  next  passes  (•/«  hr.)  some  ruins  in  a 
dale  to  the  left,  and  then  (35  min.)  several  cisterns,  beyond  which,  it  a 
bifurcation  of  the  path,  it  turns  to  the  right.  In  25  min.  we  reach  the 
ruins  of  a  large  village  (Bofertin?).  Adjoining  them  is  the  well-preser/ed 
apse  of  a  church,  with  crosses  on  the  doors.  At  both  ends  of  the  village 
are  a  number  of  rock-tombs  with  recesses.  We  next  come  to  C/2  hr.)  an 
interesting  little  church,  built  of  blocks  of  stone,  8  ft.  in  length.  Over 
the  doors  at  the  W.  end,  and  on  the  S.  side,  are  placed  rosettes  with 
crosses  and  arabesques.  The  five- arched  windows  in  the  side  of  the 
church  are  bordered  with  a  frieze.  Near  the  church  stands  a  tower  in 
the  same  style.  To  the  N.  are  the  ruins  of  a  village.  We  pass  (1/2  ar,) 
the  ruined  village  of  Bazeir  on  the  left,  and  soon  obtain  (1/2  hr.)  a  v.ew 
of  the  grand  ruins  of  Kal'at  Sim'an,  which  we  reach  in  1/4  hr.  more. 

KaVat  Simf  an.  — Accommodation  in  tents  ;  Provisions  must  be  brought. 

History.  Kalrat  Sim'an  sprang  up  in  the  5th  cent,  after  Christ  on 
the  establishment  here  of  a  convent  (Mandra)  of  the  order  of  the  StylUes, 
or  'pillar  hermits1.  Simeon,  the  founder  of  the  order,  the  son  of  a  peasant, 
was  born  in  391  and  died  in  459.  He  began  at  an  early  age  to  subject 
himself  to   the  severest  penances  and  privations.     In  422  he   ascended   a 


fflifcficfci 


column  of  moderate  height,  on  which  he  spent  seven  years,  after  which 
he  established  himself  on  the  top  ot  a  column  38  ft.  high,  where  he  spent 
the  rest  of  his  life.  Exposed  here  to  wind  and  storm,  often  fasting,  always 
standing,  and  unable  to  sleep,  or  sitting  with  his  legs  doubled  up  under 
him  when  wounds  and  weakness  rendered  standing  no  longer  possible, 
and  latterly  bound  to  the  column  or  enclosed  by  a  railing,  he  delivered 
lectures  on  the  Holy  Scriptures  from  his  lofty  station  and  attracted  thou- 


KAL'AT  SIM'AN. 


46.  Route.    379 


sands  of  hearers  and  pupils.  The  principal  church  here  dates  from  the 
5th  century.  The  description  given  by  Evagrius,  an  author  of  the  6th  cent., 
applies  perfectly  to  the  ruins  now  before  us.  The  Muslims  made  a  fortress 
out  of  the  church  and  monastery. 

The  Ruins  of  KaFal  Sim'dn,  forming  by  far  the  finest  group  of  the  kind 
in  N.  Syria,  are  surrounded  by  desolate  mountains  and  lie  on  theN.  slope  of 
the  Ldlim  D&gh  or  Jebel  Barakdt,  which  is  named  after  the  Weli  Abu  Barakdt. 
They  occupy  a  plateau  about  600  yds.  long  and  150  yds.  wide,  which  is 
bounded  by  deep  valleys  except  on  the  N.  side.  The  outer  wall  erected 
by  the  Muslims,  with  its  towers,  is  still  traceable  at  places. 

The  centre  of  the  establishment  is  formed  by  the  imposing  Monastery 
Church,  the  plan  of  which  answers  so  well  to  the  description  given  by 
Procopius  of  the  church  of  the  Apostles  erected  by  Constantine  as  his 
burial-place,  that  it  seems  to  be  a  copy  of  that  older  building.  It  con- 
sists of  four  extensive  arms,  each  flanked  with  aisles,  placed  in  the  form 
of  a  Greek  cross  of  equal  arms,  and  each  containing  two  rows  of  six 
columns.  [The  E.  arm  (PI.  A)  contains  nine  pairs  of  columns.]  Where 
the  arms  meet,  there  is  formed  an  imposing,  octagonal ,  open  central 
space,  defined  by  the  end-piers  of  the  arms  of  the  cross.  The  aisles  are 
continued  round  the  diagonal  sides  of  this  central  space  and  extended 
into  small  apses  occupying  the  exterior  angles  of  the  arms  of  the  cross. 
This  remarkable  church  merits  a  high  rank  among  the  monuments  of 
early  Christian  art  as  being  one  of  the  most  ingenious,  earliest,  and 
finest  examples  of  the  combination  of  the  basilica  form  with  that  of  the 
Greek  cross. 

In  front  of  the  North  Wing  or  Transept  (PI.  D)  once  ran  a  peristyle  (a), 
of  which  there  is  now  no  trace.  Over  the  three  portals  («>,  a2,  a8),  one  larger 
and  two  smaller,  leading  into  the  N.  arm  of  the  church,  runs  a  double 
moulding,  the  upper  part  of  which  runs  round  the  small  arched  windows 
over  the  portals,  and  round  the  two  higher  windows  flanking  the  central 
portals.  The  mouldings  on  the  sides  (6,  c)  are  also  prolonged  over  the 
smaller  portals  in  front.  Above  the  middle  portal  (a2),  higher  up,  is 
another  small  moulding  which  supported  three  small  columns,  two  of 
which  are  still  in  situ.  Above  these  again  are  introduced  small  arched 
windows.  The  rest  of  this  facade  is  destroyed.  —  We  now  walk  round 
the  N.W.  corner,  adorned  with  Corinthian  pilasters.  We  find  here  two 
portals  (cl,  c2).  On  a  level  with  the  beginning  of  their  lintels  there  is  a 
string-course  running  along  the  whole  wall.  Above  this  are  arched  win- 
dows, three  between  the  corner  and  the  first  portal,  three  between  the 
two  portals,  and  one  between  the  second  portal  and  the  angle.  Over  the 
portals  are  lower  arched  windows.  All  the  nine  windows  are  bordered 
with  moulding.  From  the  angle  projects  the  small  apse  (2)  of  the  octagon 
with  its  three  small  windows.  Of  the  peristyle  on  the  W.  side  (c)  there 
are  now  few  remains. 

As  the  ground  here  slopes  rapidly,  it  has  been  necessary  to  build  an 
artificial  foundation  for  the  West  Wing  or  Nave  (E).  The  large  arches 
leading  into  these  substructions  are  still  visible.  The  peristyle  was  once 
continued  farther  to  the  W.  on  the  side  marked  d  in  the  plan.  The  W. 
entrance  (e)  was  probably  the  chief  portal  of  the  church,  and  was  ap- 
proached by  a  broad  flight  of  steps  which  covered  the  four  now  visible 
entrances  to  the  substructions.  The  front  was  'in  antis',  and  consisted 
of  three  portals,  of  which  that  on  the  left,  with  a  small  arched  window 
above  it,  is  entire,  while  part  only  of  the  small  portal  on  the  right  is 
preserved.  In  front  of  the  central  portal  stood  three  columns,  one  of 
which  still  exists.  The  bases  of  the  two  others  and  the  adjacent  door- 
post on  the  right  are  still   to  be  seen. 

We  now  return  to  the  W.  side  of  the  K.  transept  (D),  and  enter  by 
the  door  (c1).  The  columns  and  arcades  of  Corinthian  tendency  which 
separated  the  nave  from  the  aisles  here  are  still  partly  preserved,  and  so, 
too,  is  the  side-chapel  /.  A  very  large  arch  leads  hence  into  the  magni- 
ficent Octagon  (Plan  0).  In  the  centre  still  lies  the  pedestal  (,g)  of  a  column 
on  which  perhaps  St.  Simeon  (p.  378)  stood  (comp.  p.  880).  The  arches  of 
the  octagon  are  adorned  with  a  frieze.    They  rest  on  massive  corner-piers 


^H         ■ 


'C;i&;»,-^>V>i.,-^C^i'>V.'*^-^riJ*-i 


380 


J?o?</e  46. 


KAL'AT  STM'AN. 


of  Corinthian  character,  and  on  monolithic  columns,  placed  near  the  cor- 
ners. The  frieze  of  the  arches  is  produced  in  a  straight  line  over  the 
capitals  of  the  piers,  and  in  the  angles  formed  by  the  piers  are  placed 
pedestals  for  statues.  Four  arches  of  the  octagon  lead  into  the  nave.'  of 
A,  B,  D,  and  E;  the  four  others  enter  the  connecting  spaces  between  the 
aisles  5,  6,  7,  and  8,  and  the  round  apses  1,  2,  3,  and  4.  Each  of  these 
connecting  spaces  is  bounded  by  two  arches,  resting  on  the  corner-piers 
of  the  octagon  on  one  side,  and  on  those  of  the  aisles  on  the  other  side. 
The  East  Wing  or  Choir  (A)  is  longer  than  the  others.  On  the  capitals 
to  the  left  there  are  still  traces  of  red  painting.  The  apses  h,  i,  k  of 
this  part  of  the  church  are  most  elaborately  enriched.  The  large  main 
arch,  with  its  wide  band  of  moulding,  here  rests  on  a  pilaster,  the  fluting 
of  which  is  interrupted  by  a  section  adorned  with  flowers  near  the  top. 
Over  the  five  lower  arched  windows  of  the  principal  apse  runs  a  rich 
moulding.  Each  of  the  side-apses  has  a  round-arched  window.  —  Externally 
this  triple  apse  presents  a  very  handsome  appearance,  being  rounded  and 
adorned  with  columns  of  two  orders,  placed  in  rows,  one  above  the  other. 
These  two  rows  are  separated  by  an  abacus,  and  the  upper  columns  serve 
to  support  the  corbels  of  the  cornice.  Between  these  corbels  are  others, 
projecting  independently,  above  each  pair  of  which  a  small  shell-shaped 
niche  has  been  introduced. 

A  door  leads  us  from  the  outside  into  the  space  F,  O,  adjoining  the 
apse,  and  once  apparently  used  by  the  Muslims.  We  cross  the  large 
court  H,  portions  of  the  S.  side  of  which  are  well  preserved.  In  the 
court  stands  a  large  mass  of  rock  (I),  approached  by  steps;  this  may 
possibly  be  the  rock  on  which  the  pillar  of  St.  Simeon  (p.  378)  stood 
(comp.  p.  379). 

The  E.  side  of  the  South  Wing  or  Transept  (B),  in  the  direction  of  the 
court,  is  admirably  preserved  ;  it  has  two  portals,  four  small  windows,  and  a 
small  projecting  part  in  the  middle  (m).  The  mouldings  and  capitals  here 
are  richly  varied.  The  W.  side  (n)  has  three  portals  with  small  arched  win- 
dows above  them,  and  larger  windows  of  the  same  character  between  them. 
On  the  S.  side  of  B  is  a  large  entrance  witli  the  porch  o,  which  is  entered 
by  four  square  doors.  Above  the  two  central  doors  are  lofty  arches,  and 
over  the  doors  of  the  aisles  small  arched  windows  have  been  introduced.  — 
We  cross  the  porch  and  examine  the  outside  of  the  portal.  Its  three  wide 
arches  rest  on  projecting  corner-piers,  while  the  central  arch,  with  its 
highly  elaborate  mouldings,  is  also  supported  by  two  monolithic  columns 
standing  a  short  distance  from  the  piers.  Over  the  three  portals  are  hand- 
some, well-preserved  pediments.  The  outermost  beams  of  the  pediments 
are  produced  upwards  and  bent  over  in  such  a  way  as  to  form  a  long 
cornice  over  the  central  portal.  This  cornice  bears  the  superstructure 
of  the  portal,  flanked  with  short  pilasters,  bearing  a  highly  ornate  entab- 
lature, and  pierced  with  four  arched  windows,  the  moulding  of  which 
is  produced  as  far  as  the  capitals  of  the  corner-pilasters.  The  entablature 
of  the  pediment,  the  mouldings,  and  the  upper  entablature  (as  well  as 
also  the  inner  portals  first  mentioned)  are  all  adorned  with  dentils. 
The  three  columns  which  bore  the  corbels  of  the  upper  entablature,  and 
the  two  columns  which  once  stood  between  the  pediments,  no  longer  exist. 

The  church  is  adjoined  on  the  E.  by  many  other  buildings  of  a  less 
ornate  character,  which  formed  the  Monastery  or  Alandra.  The  sub- 
structions are  practically  all  that  remains  of  the  chapel  /.  The  adjoining 
chamber  K  is  almost  entirely  destroyed.  Of  M  a  large  portal  to  the  W. 
alone  exists.  The  corridor  L  is  still  traceable,  but  the  chambers  to  the 
E.  of  it  are  nearly   obliterated.     The    projecting  structure  N  still  exists. 

To  the  S.  of  this  extensive  pile  of  buildings  rises  another  Church  of 
similar  style,  the  interior  of  which  is  now  occupied  by  several  families. 
It  was  once  covered  with  a  dome.  The  nave  was  of  octagonal  shape,  in- 
serted in  a  square  space.  The  diagonal  sides  of  the  octagon  contain 
corner-niches  (two  round  and  two  square) ;  the  principal  apse  projects. 
Around  the  square  nucleus  of  the  structure  run  aisles  formed  by  columns, 
describing   a  larger  square.     This   church  is   connected   by  means   of  a 


DANA. 


47.  Route.   381 


colonnade  with  an  adjacent  Batilica.  The  latter  contains  four  pairs  of 
columns,  and  tbe  round  apse  of  the  nave  is  externally  square  in  form. 

On  the  N.  side  of  Kal'at  Sim'an,  and  still  within  its  outer  wall ,  is 
the  small  building  0,  with  its  gabled  roof.  The  gable  has  three  windows. 
The  interior,  which  is  partly  hewn  in  the  rock,  is  entered  by  a  portal.  The 
j\t.  and  S.  sides  each  contain  three  vaulted  niches,  and  the  E.  end  two. 

From  Kal'at  Sim'an  to  TurmanIn,  33/4  hrs.  Leaving  Kal'at  Sim'an, 
we  ride  down  the  valley,  skirting  the  E.  side  of  the  village,  where  several 
Other  old  buildings  are  still  standing.  After  20min.  we  cross  the  valley. 
Where  the  path  divides  (20  min.),  we  turn  to  the  right  and  soon  reach 
(1/4  hr.)  the  village  of  Erfeidi,  on  the  opposite  side  of  the  plain,  which 
possesses  a  beautiful  house  dating  from  'Aug.  13th,  510.1  The  upper  story 
is  adorned  with  an  elegant  gallery  borne  by  columns,  with  enriched  bal- 
ustrades. The  arcades  are  bordered  with  a  moulding  which  ends  at  the 
sides  in  volutes.  The  capitals  are  very  varied,  and  some  of  them  bear 
crosses.  —  To  theW.  lie  the  ruins  of  Khatdra,  about  20  min.  from  Erfeidi, 
with  two  interesting  tombs.  That  of  Isidorus,  of  Oct.  9th,  222,  consists 
of  two  pilasters  with  an  entablature,  and  that  of  Emilius  Beginus,  dating 
from  July  20th,  195,  is  formed  by  two  columns  and  an  entablature.  A  path 
leads  to  the  S.W-  from  Khatura  to  (6  hrs.)  the  village  of  Yen*  Shelter  (p.  382). 

From  Khatura  we  regain  our  direct  route  in  10  min.,  and  (5  min.) 
ascend  the  hill  to  the  left.  We  obtain  (25  min.)  another  fine  view  of 
Kal'at  Sim'an,  and  (10  min.)  then  begin  to  descend.  We  next  reacli  (20  min.) 
btirit  Izze/i,  the  chief  place  in  the  Kada  Jcbcl  Sim'an,  and  beyond  it  we 
ascend  to  the  right.  From  the  top  of  the  hill  (10  min.)  the  route  traverses 
the  lofty  plain,  next  reaching  (35  min.)  Mvgh&rel  Za'ler,  a  cavern-dwell- 
ing, with  water  near  it.  We  descend  to  (35  min.)  Te.llddi,  lying  on  the 
right,  pass  (17  min.)  the  ruins  of  Khirbet  ed-Deir  (p.  364)  on  the  left,  and 
reach  (23  min.)   Ttmndnin,  on  the  Alexandretta  road  (see  p.  364). 


47.  From  Aleppo  to  Alexandretta  via  Antioch, 

Ride  of  27'/2  hrs.  Bridle-path  to  (18  hrs.)  Antioch;  road  thence  to 
Alexandretta,  but  mucli  of  it  in  very  bad  order. 

From  Aleppo  to  (6^3  hrs.)  Turmfintn,  see  p.  364.  Beyond 
Turmanin  we  cross  a  well-tilled  plain,  of  a  rich,  reddish  soil,  to 
(53  min.)  — 

Dftna  (accommodation  in  the  Sheikh's  house).  In  the  village, 
towards  the  W.  side,  stands  a  handsome  building,  which  is,  how- 
ever, entirely  surrounded  by  houses,  and  difficult  of  access.  To  the 
*W.  of  it  is  a  small  church  with  handsome  rosettes  and  a  few  win- 
dows. A  little  farther  to  the  S.  rises  a  small  tower  with  a  dome 
resting  on  four  columns.  Near  the  village  are  numerous  rock-cham- 
bers with  recesses  for  the  dead.  A  very  conspicuous  Columnar 
Tomb,  of  the  4th  cent.,  consists  of  a  pedestal  10  ft.  high,  on  which 
four  columns  with  Ionic  capitals  are  placed  in  the  form  of  a  square, 
bearing  a  roof,  surmounted  with  a  small  blunted  pyramid.  —  To 
the  N.W.  lies  an  interesting  Necropolis. 

Starting  from  the  S.  side  of  the  village,  we  proceed  towards  the 
S.W.,  and  soon  observe  to  the  left  (S.),  about  ^4  hr.  distant,  the 
village  of  Terib  ;  after  40  min.  we  perceive  the  ruins  of  Sermada 
(p.  373),  at  the  end  of  the  plain.  18  min.,  a  group  of  ruins;  on 
the  left  are  several  cisterns  with  water,  and  on  the  right  a  number 


382 


Route  47. 


ANTIOCH. 


Accommodation. 


of  gates  and  arcades.  9  min.,  a  flue  rained  church;  42  min.,  on 
the  left,  more  ruins,  heyond  which  (9  min.)  a  path  ascends  the  hill 
to  the  right.  A  little  farther  on  we  observe  traces  of  a  Roman  road 
hewn  in  the  rock.  On  the  right  (17  min.)  lies  a  group  of  ruins 
called  Kasr  el-Bendt  ( 'house  of  the  girls')  from  the  tradition  that  it 
was  once  a  nunnery.  The  W.  side  of  a  basilica,  with  a  tower,  is 
the  best-preserved  relic  here.  25  min.,  Burj  er-Rakseh,  with  nu- 
merous ruins  and  tombs.  Farther  on  (1/g  hr.)  the  valley  expands. 
Beyond  (25  min.)  a  small  village  on  the  left  we  soon  obtain  a  -view 
of  the  great  plain  (El-'Amk),  the  lake,  and  the  chain  of  the  Amanus. 
After  40  min.  our  route  is  joined  by  an  important  road  from  the 
right,  and  in  5  min.  reaches  the  poor  Khdn  Yeni  Sheher  ('new 
town').  The  country  is  well  cultivated,  but  is  infested  with  thieves. 

We  cross  the  brook  here  by  a  bridge  and  skirt  the  chain  of 
hills  to  the  left.  In  l1^  nr-  we  reach  the  village  of  Hdrim.  Here, 
beautifully  situated  on  an  artificial  hill,  is  an  Arabian  castle,  con- 
taining a  number  of  chambers,  Tock-staircases,  a  deep  moat,  and  a 
tunnel  hewn  in  the  rock.  This  castle,  under  the  name  of  Castrum 
Harenkh,  was  famous  in  the  time  of  the  Crusaders,  who  rebuilt  it 
for  the  protection  of  their  flocks.  In  1163  Niireddin  routed  an 
army  of  the  Franks  in  this  neighbourhood  (p.  lxxxiii).  Melik  el-' Aziz 
erected  a  new  and  very  strong  castle  here  in  1232.  The  district 
was  so  fertile  that  it  was  sometimes  called  Little  Damascus.  In 
the  environs  are  numerous  rock-tombs. 

Continuing  to  follow  the  mountains  to  the  W.,  we  cross  a  brook, 
and  in  1  hr.  reach  Khdn  Kusd.  To  the  right  rise  a  number  of  isol- 
ated hills.  In  1  hr.  more  we  reach  the  Orontes,  and  in  25  min. 
the  Jisr  el-Hadtd  ('iron  bridge'),  with  its  four  arches,  formerly  a 
point  of  great  importance.  It  still  possesses  tetes-de-  font.  On  the 
river  are  water-wheels  and  a  mill,  and  beyond  it  is  a  khan.  Farther 
on  we  keep  the  lake  of  Antioch  to  our  right,  and  pass  quantities  of 
the  liquorice  plant  ( Glycyrrhiza  glabra).  After  1  hr.  40  min.  we 
turn  into  a  broad  valley  more  towards  the  S.,  and  pass  some  wells. 
On  the  left  (1/2  hr.)  a  small  valley  opens,  and  on  the  right  are  an 
aqueduct  and  a  group  of  houses  called  JUija.  We  pass  (23  min.  )  a 
well  on  the  left,  and  (20  min.)  two  villages  on  the  right,  and  reach 
(10  min.)  the  beginning  of  the  orchards.  On  the  left  (7  min.)  are 
rock-tombs,  and  on  the  hill  above  us  rise  the  walls  of  ancient  An- 
tioch. In  10  min.  we  pass  the  site  of  the  Bab  Bulus,  or  E.  gate 
(p.  387),  and  in  !/4  hr.  more  observe  numerous  tombs  on  the  left. 
Ill  13  min.  more  we  reach  Antioch, 

Antioch..  —  Accommodation  may  be  obtained  at  the  houses  of  the 
consular  agents,  to  whom,  however,  an  introduction  is  necessary,  or  in  a 
dirty  kind  of  casino,  or  Greek  caf£,  in  the  W.  part  of  the  town.  Visitors 
have  to  bring  their  own  bedding.  —  Tukkish  Post  &  Telegkaph  Station. 

Consulates.  British,  /.  Douek,  vice-consul;  French,  Potton,  consuilar 
agent;  German,  Mardiros Missakian,  consular  agent;  Italian,  D.  Azar,  agent. 

Phtsician.    Dr.  Gh'ptis  (a  Greek). 


u.«y\/  ^~>^  - 


Hiitory. 


ANTIOCH. 


47.  Route.    oOD 


Photographs  are  best  obtained  from  Cttment  Thivenet  at  Aleppo,  though 
taere  is  also  a  photograpber  in  Antioch. 

Antiquities.  Large  numbers  of  gems  and  coins  are  brought  to  light 
ly  the  heavy  showers  of  rain  which  wash  down  the  soil  from  the  hills. 
.Njiiio  of  these  are  admirable  specimens  of  the  die-sinker's  art,  but  for- 
geries are  not  uncommon.     Careful  bargaining  is  always  necessary. 

Antioch  ( Arab.  Antakiyeh)  lies  in  the  beautiful  and  extremely 
fertile  plain  of  the  lower  Orontes,  on  the  left  hank  of  the  stream 
(now  called  El-'Asi),  which  is  here  crossed  by  a  bridge  of  four 
arches.  The  town  nestles  picturesquely  among  the  green  orchards 
at  the  S.  base  of  the  rugged  Mt.  Silpius  (Arab.  Habib  en-Nejjar; 
1445  ft.).  The  peaks  of  this  range  of  hills  (the  Mom  Vastus  of 
antiquity),  anciently  called  Silpius,  Orocassias,  and  Staurin,  are 
separated  from  each  other  by  valleys  which  rarely  contain  water. 
The  modern  town,  occupying  scarcely  one-tenth  part  (to  the  N.W.) 
of  its  ancient  area,  contains  28,000  inhab.  (4000  Christians,  a  few 
Jews)  and  is  the  seat  of  a  Kaimmakdm.  The  ordinary  language  is 
Turkish,  practically  the  only  language  understood  by  the  authori- 
ties ;  but  Armenian  and  Arabic  are  spoken  by  many  of  the  inhabi- 
tants. While  in  ancient  times  the  city  took  an  active  part  in  the 
transmission  of  goods  between  the  East  and  the  West,  and  lay  at 
the  intersection  of  the  important  routes  from  the  Euphrates  to  the 
sea  ( Seleucia)  and  from  the  Bikar  (p.  292)  to  Asia  Minor,  its  pre- 
sent trade  is  very  insignificant.  Liquorice  is  exported  to  America 
and  maize  to  Europe.  There  are  several  soap-factories;  the  shoes 
and  the  plain  but  durable  knives  of  Antioch  are  prized ;  and  the 
eels  with  which  the  Orontes  abounds  are  noted.  Large  water-wheels 
are  used  to  irrigate  the  orchards. 

After  his  victory  at  Ipsus,  in  B.C.  301,  Seleucus  I.  Nicator  (p.  lxxxviii) 
founded  the  city  of  Anliochia  (named  after  his  father)  near  the  altar  of 
Zeus  Bottios,  which  had  been  erected  by  Alexander  the  Great.  The  Greek 
colonies  of  Iopolis,  on  the  hill  of  Silpius  to  the  S.,  and  Pagus  Bollia  had 
already  been  established  here.  The  town,  which  at  first  lay  on  the  S. 
side  of  the  Orontes  only,  was  peopled  with  Macedonians  and  with  the 
inhabitants  of  the  new  town  of  Antigonia,  which  is  supposed  to  have 
lain  about  6  M.  to  the  N.  of  Antiochia.  The  town  also  contained  the 
native  inhabitants  and  a  number  of  Jews.  Seleucus  and  his  successors 
adorned  the  city  with  magnificent  buildings  and  laid  out  streets  of  columns, 
flanked  on  both  sides  with  covered  colonnades  as  a  protection  against 
heat  and  rain.  From  the  reign  of  Seleucus  also  dates  the  seated  statue 
of  the  goddess  of  Antiochia,  by  Eutychides,  a  pupil  of  Lysippus.  We 
obtain  an  idea  of  this  work  from  coins  and  from  the  copy  in  the  Vatican. 
Antiochus  the  Great  (B.C.  223-187)  founded  an  extensive  new  quarter  on 
the  island  in  the  Orontes,  which  was  then  much  larger  than  it  is  at  pre- 
sent, and  united  it  with  the  old  town  by  five  handsome  bridges.  An- 
tiochus Epiphanes  (B.C.  175-164)  added  a  residential  suburb  at  the  S.  end 
of  the  town,  next  the  hill-slope  which  had  been  avoided  by  Seleucus  on 
account  of  its  destructive  torrents. 

Such  is  an  outline  of  the  rapid  rise  of  Antioch,  the  sumptuous  cap- 
ital of  the  splendour-loving  Seleucidffi,  and  at  the  same  time  a  great  centre 
of  commerce.  The  population,  consisting  of  Greek  and  Syrian  elements, 
was  of  a  restless  and  voluptuous  character,  and,  though  frequently  visited 
by  earthquakes,  never  allowed  its  pleasures  to  suffer  much  interruption. 
Notwithstanding  all  its  advantages  Antioch,  being  a  creation  of  the  Mace- 
donian  dynasty,   lacked    the   true  spirit  of  the  ancient  Greek   cities  ,  and 


— ■MUwBMliiaibM«IM*i    '  -:■---:■-*-,?•  mHJM  MM 


384   Route  47. 


ANTIOCH. 


History. 


was  notable  for  the  time-serving  and  fickle  character  of  its  inhabitants. 
In  83,  when  the  Seleucidan  dynasty  was  in  a  tottering  condition,  Antiodi 
was  temporarily  the  residence  of  Tigranes,  King  of  Armenia,  but  his 
supremacy  was  soon  afterwards  succeeded  by  that  of  the  Romans,  whom 
the  citizens  welcomed  as  their  deliverers  from  a  foreign  yoke.  Pompiy 
accorded  a  considerable  degree  of  independence  to  Antioch,  and  the  ciy 
became  the  seat  of  a  prelect  and  the  headquarters  of  the  military  aid 
political  administration  of  the  district.  After  the  battle  of  Pharsalus  n 
B.  C.  48,  however,  the  citizens  speedily  transferred  their  allegiance  from 
Poinpey  to  the  victorious  Caesar,  who  rewarded  them  by  confirming  their 
privileges  and  by  erecting  a  pillared  hall  (Ca>sareuni),  a  theatre,  an  amphi- 
theatre (on  the  Acropolis),  and  a  bath.  Tiberius  built  a  wall  round  tie 
S.  suburb,  which  was  connected  both  with  the  Acropolis  and  with  I  <• 
'old1  and  'new  town',  so  that  thenceforth  Antioch  consisted  of  four  qnar- 
ters.  The  principal  ornaments  of  the  S.  end  were  its  streets  of  columts, 
with  double  colonnades:  the  longest  of  these  ran  from  the  E.  gate  to  tie 
W.  gate,  a  distance  of  4  M.  The  city  owed  its  supply  of  excellent  water 
from  Daphne  to  Caligula,  Trajan,  and  Hadrian.  Notwithstanding  the  dis- 
astrous earthquakes  of  li.C.  184,  A.D.  37,  one  in  the  reign  of  Claudius  (41-54), 
and  the  most  destructive  of  all  in  115,  in  the  reign  of  Trajan  (who  hid 
to  take  refuge  in  the  Circus),  the  city  sustained  no  permanent  injury,  is 
it  was  on  each  occasion  restored  or  rebuilt  in  a  finer  style  than  before. 

At  Antioch  a  Christian  community  was  for  the  first  time  formed  in- 
dependently of  the  synagogue,  and  here  the  members  of  the  new  sect 
were  first  called  Christians  (Acts  xi.  26).  It  was  from  Antioch  that  St.  Paul 
started  on  his  missionary  travels  (Acts  xiii.  4).  Antioch  thus  became  tiie 
cradle  of  Gentile  Christianity,  and  among  its  citizens  were  numbered  many 
martyrs,  including  Bishop  Ignatius  (in  the  time  of  Trajan).  —  In  260  An- 
tioch was  sacked  by  Sapor,  King  of  Persia,  and  shortly  afterwards  it 
was  captured  by  Zenobia,  Queen  of  Palmyra.  Aurelian  recovered  and 
restored  the  city,  and  Diocletian  built  a  gigantic  imperial  palace  on  the 
island.  Constanline  erected  a  magnificent  new  edifice  on  the  site  of  the 
early  and  simple  'Church  of  the  Apostles'  (besides  a  Prsetorium  and  other 
buildings).  The  new  church  was  completed  by  his  son,  Conslantius,  in 
whose  reign  (341)  the  city  was  devastated  by  another  earthquake.  Julian 
the  Apostate,  who  spent  the  winter  of  362-363  at  Antioch,  relieved  his 
preparations  for  the  Persian  war  by  the  composition  of  his  treatise  'against 
the  Christians'.  Antioch  attained  its  greatest  size  under  Theodosius  the 
Great,  who  advanced  the  walls  by  more  than  a  Roman  mile  on  the  W. 
and  mountain  sides.  According  to  reports  of  the  Chinese,  who  at  that 
time  had  commercial  relations  with  Antioch  (which  they  regarded  as  the 
capital  of  the  Roman  empire),  the  circuit  of  the  walls  was  100  stadia,  or 
about  ll'/2  M.  St.  Chrysostom,  who  was  a  presbyter  here  for  12  years 
before  he  was  summoned  to  Constantinople,  estimated  the  population  of 
Antioch  at  the  close  of  the  4th  cent,  at  200,000,  of  whom  one-half  were 
Christians.  The  most  illustrious  pagan  scholar  at  that  date  was  the 
orator  Libanius,  the  teacher  of  Chrysostom. 

Although  at  first  Antioch  lagged  behind  the  older  Alexandria  in  the 
domain  of  science,  yet  after  the  4th  cent,  it  took  the  leading  place  in  the 
department  of  Biblical  criticism  and  exegesis.  In  contrast  to  the  mystical 
and  allegorical  exegesis  of  the  Alexandrians ,  the  'Antiochians'  applied 
the  principles  of  historical  and  grammatical  criticism  to  the  sacred  docu- 
ments. Paul  of  Samosaia  (p.  399),  created  Bishop  of  Antioch  in  260,  ex- 
cited the  wrath  of  the  orthodox  by  his  revival  of  the  doctrine  that  Jesus 
Christ  was  a  human  being  in  whom  the  might  of  God  was  manifested  in 
the  form  of  the  'Logos1,  and  he  was  accordingly  excommunicated  by  the 
Council  of  Antioch  in  269.  Between  the  middle  of  the  3rd  cent,  and  the 
beginning  of  the  6th  more  than  30  ecclesiastical  councils  met  at  Antioch. 
According  to  a  tradition  founded  upon  Gal.  ii.  11  et  seq.,  St.  Peter  was  the  first 
bishop  of  Antioch;  and  the  church  of  Antioch  therefore  ranked  next  to 
Alexandria  and  Rome  at  the  Council  ofNicsea.  The  Patriarch  of  Antioch 
ruled  over  12  provinces  with  167  bishops.  Antioch  became  the 'metropolis 
and  eye'  ofE.  Christendom.  The  Orthodox  Greek  church  retains  the  title 


Serdi. 


ANTIOCH. 


47.  Route.   385 


'Patriarch  of  Antioch.'1,  but  its  holder  now  resides  at  Damascus.  In  457 
and  468  the  island  quarter  of  the  city  was  entirely  destroyed  by  earthquakes. 
In  consequence  of  an  earthquake  in  526,  in  the  reign  of  Justinian,  no  fewer 
than  'Jf>0,000  persons  are  said  to  have  perished,  and  in  528  a  similar  cata- 
strophe; occasioned  the  death  of  5000  more.  In  538  Antioch  was  plundered 
by  the  Sassanide  monarch  Chosroes  I.  (p.  395),  who  carried  away  many  of 
the  inhabitants  to  New  Antioch  in  Assyria.  Justinian  exhibited  much  zeal 
in  rebuilding  the  city,  but  was  unable  to  restore  its  ancient  glory.  —  In 
037  Antioch  was  captured  by  the  Arabs,  from  whom  it  was  at  length 
wrested  by  the  Greek  Emperor  Nicephorus  Phocas  in  969.  In  1084  the 
city  was  betrayed  to  Suleiman,  the  Turkish  prince  of  Iconium. 

In  1097  the  Crusaders  found  it  difficult  to  invest  the  city  completely, 
nor  could  they  wholly  resist  the  demoralizing  influences  of  the  Antiochian 
mode  of  life.  An  earthquake  which  took  place  in  Jan.,  1098,  however, 
had  a  salutary  effect;  they  collected  their  scattered  forces,  and  in  the 
ninth  month  of  the  siege  they  at  length,  with  the  aid  of  a  traitor,  captured 
the  city,  where  they  instituted  a  general  massacre.  A  Persian  army  now 
approached  to  the  relief  of  the  Antiocbians,  whereupon  the  Crusaders 
were  seized  with  despair.  A  reaction,  however,  was  occasioned  by  the 
finding  of  the  'holy  spear1  (with  which  t he  Saviour's  side  is  said  to  have 
been  pierced)  by  Peter  of  Amiens  under  the  altar  of  the  principal  church, 
and  the  Crusaders  succeeded  in  gaining  a  complete  victory  over  an  enemy 
of  greatly  superior  numbers.  After  many  dissensions  Bohemund,  Prince 
of  Tarentum ,  was  appointed  prince  of  Antioch,  nominally  under  the 
suzerainty  of  the  Emperor  of  Byzantium.  The  principality  of  Antioch 
extended  from  Tarsus  to  the  Eleutheros  (Nahr  el-Kebir,  p.  351),  and  east- 
wards to  Seijar  (p.  370)  and  Harim  (p.  382).  In  1170  the  Frank  quarter  of 
Antioch  was  destroyed  by  a'fearful  earthquake.  On  19th  May,  1268,  the 
Muslims,  under  Sultan  Beibars,  finally  regained  possession  of  the  city.  — 
Comp.  Fiirster's  Antiochia  (Breslau,  1897). 

The  Modbrn  Town  presents  a  somewhat  dwarfed  appearance 
within  the  walls  of  the  old  town.  The  streets  are  narrow  but  are 
furnished  on  both  sides  with  comparatively  broad  side-walks  se- 
parated by  a  narrow  hut  deep  depression  for  the  reception  of  garbage. 
The  streets  are  therefore  impracticable  for  carriages,  and  as  there 
are  tew  windows  in  the  walls  of  the  houses  flanking  them  their  ap- 
pearance is  very  sombre.  The  sloping  tiled  roofs  of  the  houses 
present  quite  a  European  aspect. 

A  visit  should  he  paid  to  the  Smrai,  in  the  N.W.  part  of  the  town. 
The  court  of  this  building  contains  a  number  of  capitals  and  drums 
of  columns,  two  fine  Sarcophagi,  and  the  Statue  of  an  orator  or  poet, 
in  the  style  of  the  statue  of  Sophocles  at  the  Lateran,  which  dates 
from  the  late  imperial  epoch.  This  statue  was  found  in  1895  beside 
the  wall  on  the  W.  side  of  the  town.  The  larger  sarcophagus,  which 
Mas  uncovered  during  an  inundation  of  the  Orontes  in  1880-81, 
dates  at  latest  from  the  2nd  cent.  A.I),  and  contained  the  remains 
of  a  victorious  athlete,  whose  portrait  appears  on  one  of  the  ends. 
The  smaller  sarcophagus,  found  between  Seleucia  and  Daphne,  i3 
of  somewhat  later  date  and  inferior  workmanship. 

Inscribed  tombstones  with  reliefs  and  other  antiquities  are  to  be 
seen  in  private  houses,  e.g.  in  that  of  M.  Missakian  (p.  382),  on  the 
Orontes,  about  5  min.  to  the  left  from  the  bridge.  The  finest  collec- 
tion of  the  sort,  including  reliefs  from  Palmyra,  gems,  and  coins, 
belongs  to  Aga  Riffat  Bereket,  a  gentleman  of  European  culture. 


^^^^^^^^^^^^^B 

'?.;>£/??.* 


386    Route  47. 


ANTIOCH. 


Town  Walls 


Ancient  Antioch  lay  not  only  on  the  plain  but  on  the  shpes 
of  Mt.  Silpius  (p.  383)  and  on  the  plateau  of  this  hill.  The  nost 
important  remains  lie  on  the  slopes  to  the  S.  A  walk  round  the 
Ancient  Wall  (about  5  hrs.)  is  very  interesting  but  necessitates  a 
guide.  It  runs  from  the  river  up  to  the  hills  and  beyond  them. 
There  is  almost  no  relic  of  it  in  the  plain,  as  after  the  earthqiake 
of  1872  the  inhabitants  were  allowed  to  use  it  in  rebuilding  tieir 
houses.  The  whole  wall  is  built  of  line  limestone  from  Mt.  Silpus. 
The  interior  is  composed  of  a  conglomerate  of  unhewn  stones  tnd 
mortar,  the  outside  being  faced  with  hewn  stones  of  different  sizes. 
At  the  aqueduct  (see  below)  the  wall  is  10*/2  ft.  thick  includingthe 
projecting  top,  or  9  ft.  without  it,  so  that  the  statement  of  ancent 
authors  that  a  four -horse  chariot  could  be  driven  along  its  top 
seems  not  incredible.  At  this  point  it  is  still  26  ft.  in  height,  wiile 
on  the  top  of  the  mountain  H  is  40  ft.  The  wall  was  interruptei  at 
intervals  of  ca.  53  yds.  by  large  three-storied  towers,  of  which  tlere 
are  said  to  have  been  360  in  all.  Those  on  the  hill  were  70-80  ft. 
high.  Flights  of  steps  led  up  from  one  to  the  other.  To  judge  by 
the  remains  on  the  top  of  the  hill,  there  were  flights  of  steps  within 
the  towers  and  also  cisterns. 

We  begin  on  the  W.  side,  where  there  was  a  gate,  known  as 
Porta  Cherubim,  Daphnetica,  or  Sancti  Oeorgii,  the  site  of  which  nay 
be  identified  near  the  large  barracks  erected  by  Ibrahim  Pasha  -with 
stones  taken  from  the  ancient  town-walls.  Following  the  tracts  of 
the  wall,  we  ascend  to  (10  min.)  a  handsome  four-arched  Aqueluct 
crossing  the  valley.  In  ^hr.  we  reach  a  well-preserved  gateway,  4  ft. 
wide.  In  20  min.  more  we  walk  round  a  small  depression  through 
which  we  look  down  upon  the  modern  town,  with  the  slopes  of  Jebel 
Musa  (p.  361)  beyond  it;  to  the  N.E.  is  the  lake  of  Antioch  (p.  338). 

A  still  finer  view  is  obtained  from  the  point  (*/4  nr0  where  the 
wall  again  begins  to  descend  northwards.  To  the  N.  the  large,  pyra- 
midal Jebel  Bayazid  near  Beilan  (p.  362)  is  visible,  and  the  whole 
course  of  the  Orontes  is  distinctly  traceable.  Following  the  inside 
of  the  wall,  we  next  pass  (8  min.)  a  large  structure  (130  ft.  in  dia- 
meter), which  resembles  an  amphitheatre  in  shape  but  is  more 
probably  a  Reservoir.  —  After  10  min.  we  reach  a  large  ruined  Castle, 
which  may  occupy  the  site  of  the  ancient  citadel,  though  in  its  pre- 
sent form,  as  the  round  towers  indicate,  it  dates  from  the  time  of 
the  Crusaders.  From  that  period  also  dates  the  outer  wall  which 
has  been  built  alongside  the  old  wall  for  a  short  distance  here. 

We  continue  to  skirt  the  wall  till  Qfe  hr.)  we  arrive  at  the  Bab 
el-JIadtd  ('iron  gate').  The  wall  (about  60  ft.  in  height)  here  crosses 
a  deep  ravine,  at  the  lowest  part  of  which  is  a  narrow  sluice  to 
permit  the  outflow  of  the  mountain-stream,  which  descends  with 
great  fury  in  winter.  This  sluice  was  probably  originally  fitted  with 
iron  framework.  Procopius,  who  mentions  the  wall  in  his  memoir 
'On  the  Buildings  of  Justinian'  (ii.  10),  names  the  torrent  Ono- 


Ch.  of  St.  John. 


ANTIOCH. 


47.  Route.    o87 


pniktes.  Close  by  is  a  postern,  but  no  proper  gate.  The  wall  hence 
ascends  the  hill  so  steeply  that  we  can  no  longer  follow  it.  —  We 
may  return  directly  to  the  town  by  joining  the  bridle-path  that 
descends  near  the  Bab  el-Hadid  and  passes  near  the  ruins  of  the 
huge  Theatre,  in  which  Sapor  (p.  384)  surprized  the  citizens. 

We,  however,  cross  the  water-course  and  descend  by  a  rough 
path,  passing  the  aqueduct  over  the  stream,  to  the  end  of  the  slope, 
where  we  find  a  rock-cavern  forming  the  Church  of  St.  John  Chryso- 
stom.  The  small  cemetery  adjoining  belongs  to  the  Latins  (key  at 
the  Capuchin  Monastery  in  the  town). 

About  225  yds.  to  the  E.  of  this  spot  is  a  remarkable  Rock  Relief, 
consisting  of  a  female  head  with  headdress  (14'/2  ft  ia  height)  and 
a  complete  female  figure  resembling  a  caryatid.  These  figures,  the 
outlines  of  which  are  injured,  were  carved  by  order  of  King  An- 
tiochus  Epiphanes,  in  order  to  avert  a  pestilence  from  the  city.  The 
historian  Joannes  Malalas,  who  was  born  in  Antioch  and  flourished  in 
the  reign  of  Justinian,  mentionsthat  they  existed  in  his  time  and  that 
the  spot  was  known  as  Charoneion,  or  'place  of  the  under-world5. 

Farther  on  we  pass  the  remains  of  an  old  conduit  and  the  ruined 
monastery  of  St.  Paul,  and  reach  the  site  of  the  old  Bab  BiUus  or 
St.  Paul's  Oate.  The  town-walls  may  be  traced  N.  from  this  point 
to  the  Orontes,  but  their  remains  are  scanty  and  the  path  is  rough. 

The  best  method  of  tracing  the  N.  wall  is  to  skirt  the  Orontes  to 
the  E.  from  the  Orontes  Gate,  in  which  case  we  may  observe,  to  the 
right,  the  former  course  of  the  Orontes  canal  constructed  by  Justin- 
ian. Just  before  the  wall  bends  to  the  S.  we  see  the  Spina  and 
one  of  the  Metae  of  the  Stadium  (about  220  yds.  in  length)  project- 
ing from  a  marsh.  The  spectators'  seats,  with  the  flights  of  steps 
leading  to  them,  are  also  partly  preserved.  At  a  little  distance  are 
the  girdle-walls  of  an  ancient  building,  probably  the  Thermae  erected 
by  the  Emp.  Valens,  who  also  constructed  the  stadium.  On  the 
opposite  bank  of  the  river  linger  the  remains  of  an  ancient  bridge. 

The  gate  in  the  N.E.  side  of  the  wall  was  named  Bab  el-Jeneineh 
('garden  gate'),  in  European  accounts  of  the  Crusades  it  is  called 
Porta  Ducis,  or  'duke's  gate',  because  Godfrey  de  Bouillon  pitched 
his  tent  in  the  neighbourhood  during  the  siege  of  Antioch. 

A  very  attractive  excursion  (guide  necessary)  may  be  made  from 
Antioch  to  (l3/<  lir.)  Beit  el-Ma  ('house  of  water'),  the  identity  of  which 
with  the  ancient  Daphne  has  been  disputed  without  adequate  grounds. 
We  quit  the  city  on  the  W.  side  and  soon  reach  the  remains  of  an  an- 
cient stone  bridge  over  the  Orontes,  not  far  from  its  confluence  with  the 
mountain-stream  Akakir.  In  1  hr.  we  arrive  at  the  village  of  El-Harbiyeh, 
and  in  1/2  hr.  more  at  Beit  el-Md.  The  most  attractive  sight  here  is  offered 
by  the  numerous  waterfalls  which  descend  close  by  each  other  into  a 
deep  valley,  and  finally  find  their  way  to  the  Orontes.  There  are  also, 
however,  some  remains  of  ancient  buildings  and  of  an  aqueduct  with  an 
intercepting  wall  built  for  its  protection;  also  fragments  of  columns.  A 
few  laurels  likewise  survive.  A  number  of  sarcophagi  project  from  the 
ground  in  the  ancient  Necropolis,  which  lies  to  the  N.E. ;  and  considerable 
remains  of  a  large  wall  have  also  been  found  here.  Close  to  the  last  is  a 
deep  subterranean  Jiock   Orollo,  reached  by  a  long  flight  of  stops.    This 


§■■  ^^^^■^HHH^HHH 


IjMJMJH 


I^^H 


388 


i?oii<e  i7. 


LAKE  OF  ANTIOGH. 


may,  perhaps,  have  been  a  shrine  of  Hecate.  The  highest  point  of  the 
necropolis  commands  a  fine  view.  The  water  of  Daphne  forms  stalactites. 
—  Daphne  was  the  'Buenretiro'  for  Antiochia,  which  was  even  sometimes 
called  'Epidaphne''  {i.e.  'near  Daphne').  Daphne  was  famous  for  its  laurels 
and  cypresses;  the  nymph  Daphne  was  said  to  have  been  metamorphosed 
here  into  a  laurel  when  pursued  by  Apollo.  Scleucus  Nicator  (p.  383) 
built  a  temple  at,  Daphne  to  Apollo,  and  for  this  shrine  Bryaxis,  an  artist 
of  the  Attic  school,  designed  the  widely-admired  statue  of  the  lyre-playing 
Apollo,  a  copy  of  which  appears  on  coins  of  Antioch.  Daphne  also  contained 
temples  of  Artemis,  Isis,  Aphrodite,  and  other  deities.  The  temple  of 
Apollo  was  burned  down  under  Julian.  Antiochus  Epiphanes  built  a 
stadium  in  which  he  celebrated  gorgeous  military  and  musical  festivals, 
taking  personal  part  in  the  latter.  Germanicus  died  at  Daphne,  and  a 
monument  (tribunal)  was  erected  in  his  honour  here  and  another  in  Antioch. 
Olympian  games  were  held  regularly  at  Daphne  from  the  reign  of  Corn- 
modus  until  the  6th  century.  The  remains  of  St.  Babylas,  martyred  under 
Decius,  were  buried  here,  but  were  exhumed  at  the  orders  of  Julian. 

In  continuing  our  journey  from  Antioch  we  turn  to  the  right  (N.) 
beyond  the  bridge  (p.  382)  and  follow  the  telegraph-wires.  On  the  left 
(3  min.)  are  ancient  tombs.  After  25  min.  the  road  crosses  the  small 
Nahv  el-Kuiveiseh,  and  diverges  a  little  to  the  right  of  the  telegraph- 
wires.  The  ground  is  marshy  at  places,  but  covered  with  rich  vege- 
tation. This  was  the  Syria  Pieria  of  the  ancients.  We  pass  (1  hr.) 
a  village  on  a  hill  to  the  right,  and  reach  (1  hr.)  the  Lake  of  Antioch. 
In  the  distance,  to  the  right,  rises  the  Jebel  Sim'an  (p.  378).  The 
lake  is  mentioned  by  Libanius  (p.  384).  It  is  now  called  Bahrat 
Antdkiyeh,  and  through  it  flows  the  Karasu  (Karatshai;  p.  363)  or 
Nahr  el-Aswad  ('black  water'),  the  ancient  Melas,  which  falls  into 
the  Orontes  about  1  hr.  above  Antioch.  The  copious  Nahr  'Afrin 
(coming  from  the  E. ;  p.  364)  and  several  brooks  flow  into  the  lake, 
the  extent  of  which  varies  according  to  the  season. 

After  ll/t  hr.  the  road  reaches  the  end  of  the  plain,  and  re- 
turns to  the  telegraph-wires  near  a  solitary  oak.  The  hill  to  the 
left  is.  crowned  with  a  small  ruin.  We  next  reach  (33  min.)  the 
khan  and  hamlet  of  Karamurt.  To  the  left  in  the  valley,  above  us 
(S.W.),  at  a  distanceof  l/^  hr.,  rise  the  romantically  situated  ruins 
of  the  Kal'at  Baghrds,  a  large  ancient  castle.  This  is  doubtless  the 
Pagrae  of  Strabo.  It  was  a  point  of  great  importance  in  the  middle 
ages,  as  it  commanded  the  S.  entrance  to  the  frequented  Beilan  Pass 
(p.  363).  It  was  for  a  long  period  in  possession  of  the  Crusaders, 
but  was  captured  by  Saladin  in  1189.  Once  more  captured  by  the 
Christians,  it  was  finally  taken  from  them  by  Sultan  Beibars  in  1268. 

After  50  min.  our  route  is  joined  by  an  ancient  road  from  tlie 
right,  and  we  now  follow  the  latter  and  the  telegraph-wires.  The 
slopes  are  clothed  with  arbutus ,  myrtles,  pines,  and  other  trees. 
Still  ascending,  the  road  at  length  (^2  hr.)  reaches  the  top  of  the 
Mil,  which  commands  a  beautiful  vievv.  The  road  passes  (27  aria.) 
a  guard-house,  in  which  soldiers  are  stationed,  and  (6  min.)  is 
joined  by  the  Aleppo  road  winding  up  from  the  right.  Thence  to 
(2  hrs.)  Beilan  and  (2^2  hrs.)  Alexandretta,  coinp.  pp.  363,  362. 


VI.  MESOPOTAMIA  AND  BABYLONIA. 


48. 

49. 
60. 


Route  Page 

Practical  Hints 389 

Geographical  Sketch 391 

Historical  Sketch 393 

From  Aleppo  to  Urfa  (Edessa) 396 

From  Membij  to  Urfa  via,  Birejik 397 

Harran  (Rarrhse).    Samsat  (Samosata) 308,399 

From  Urfa  to  Diarbekr 399 

Weiranshehir      .     .     - 401) 

From  Diarbekr  to  Mosul 401 

a.  Voyage  on  the  Tigris 401 

b.  Land  Route  via  Mardin  and  Nesibin 403 

Sinjar ' 403 

Nineveh.     Khorsabad  (Diir  Sharrukin).     Nimnid     .     .     .  404 

51.  From  Mosul  to  Baghdad  (Gaugamela.    Arbela)     .    .    .   404 

52.  Baghdad' 406 

Excursion  to  Babylon 408 

Hilleh.    Birs  (Barsip).    Kerbela 409 

Nifl'er  (Nippur) 410 

From  Baghdad  to  Basra  (Ctesiphon.    Seleucia)  .    .    .   410 
From  Aleppo  to  Baghdad  along  the  line  of  the  Euphrates  411   I 


53 


The  concession  for  the  building  of  the  Baghdad  Railway,  forming  a 
prolongation  of  the  Anatolian  Railway  from  Ilaidar  Pasha  (Constantinople) 
to  Konia,  was  granted  by  the  Turkish  Government  to  a  Franco-German 
syndicate  on  Jan.  22nd,  1902.  The  construction  must  be  completed  within 
8  years  from  the  turning  of  the  first  sod,  provided  that  the  money  for 
guaranteeing  the  interest  is  duly  forthcoming.  The  entire  length  from  Konia, 
the  present  terminus  of  the  Anatolian  Railway,  to  the  Persian  Gulf 
amounts  to  about  1500  M.  (i.e.  about  1860  M.  from  Constantinople,  or  about 
half  the  length  of  the  Siberian  Railway).  From  Konia  the  railway  will 
cross  the  Taurus  to  Adana  (p  362);  thence  it  will  proceed  in  a  double 
loop,  between  the  spurs  of  the  Taurus  and  the  Amanus,  to  Killis  (whence 
a  branch-line  will  diverge  to  Aleppo;  p.  373)  and  JerabHs  (p.  397).  After 
crossing  the  Euphrates  it  will  run  via  I/arrdn  (p.  398;  the  junction  of  a 
branch-line  to  Urfa,  p.  397).  lids  el-'Ain,  Nesibin  (p  403),  and  Mdsul  (p.  404). 
From  Mosul  it  proceeds  to  Baghdad  (■p.  406)  via  TekrU  (p.  405) 'and  Sheikh 
Ibrahim,  the  junction  of  a  branch-line  which  crosses  the  Tigris  to  Khdnikin 
(p  406).  Beyond  Baghdad  the  railway  makes  a  sharp  bend  to  the  W.  and 
runs  via  Kerield  (p.  409),  A'ejef  (p.  410),  and  Basra  (p.  411)  to  Kadhima  on 
the  Bay  of  El-Kuweit,  where  it  will  end. 

Travelling  in  the  lands  adjoining  the  Euphrates  and  Tigris  goes 
somewhat  beyond  the  scope  of  the  customary  tour  in  the  Orient,  not 
only  on  account  of  the  time  which  it  requires  but  also  in  respect  of 
the  exertions  and  privations  for  which  the  traveller  must  be  pre- 
pared.   No  considerable  change  can  take  place  in  the  conditions 

Bajsdbkbr's  Palestine  and  Syria.   4th  Edit.  24 


SF&rS/  ^B  B  B  ^  B  ^H  B  ^H    B  B  ^1 1 B I ,:  B  B  ^B  1 1 


390 


MESOPOTAMIA 


Practical 


until  the  completion  of  the  Baghdad  Railway  (see  p.  389).  In  spite 
of  all  this,  however,  the  number  of  visitors  to  this  territory,  prompted 
by  geographical,  historical,  or  other  scientific  interest,  lias  greatly 
increased  during  the  last  few  years.  —  The  best  season  is  be- 
tween the  end  of  March  and  the  middle  of  May;  the  second  half 
of  the  latter  month  is  often  uncomfortably  warm.  In  the  S.  portions 
of  the  district  the  only  really  pleasant  periods  for  travelling  are 
October,  November,  February,  and  March.  In  December  and 
January  the  nights  are  very  cold,  even  to  the  S.  of  Baghdad. 

The  Mode  of  Travelling  is  similar  to  that  in  the  remoter  parts 
of  Syria  (comp.  lntrod.,  pp.  xi,  xvii),  but  there  is  on  the  whole 
more  variety,  as  the  traveller  will  sometimes  have  opportunity  to 
use  fairly  comfortable  carriages  of  a  European  pattern,  raits  upon 
the  Tigris  (p.  401),  and  barges  on  the  Euphrates.  Guod  Drayomans 
(p.  xvii)  are  to  be  found  in  Jerusalem  and  Beirut  only,  and  all 
information  may  be  obtained  from  the  tourist-offices  in  those  cities. 
The  prices  are  15  to  20  per  cent  higher  than  for  travelling  in 
Palestine.  The  single  traveller  pays  50-70  fr.  a  day  (including  tent, 
t-0-100  fr.).  The  journey  from  Aleppo  to  Baghdad  takes  about 
4  weeks.  Those  who  undei stand  Turki-h  and  (still  more  important) 
Arabic  can  get  along  with  a  Servant,  who  acts  as  cook  and  receives 
3-6£.  Turkish  monthly;  in  this  case,  however,  the  traveller  has 
himself  to  provide  for  the  equipment  of  the  caravan.  The  charge 
for  a  horse  is  5-6  fr.  per  day,  including  fodder  and  the  wages  of  the 
mukari  (p.  ix).  Those  who  buy  their  horses  should  not  pay  more 
than  Si.  Turkish  for  a  saddle-horse,  or  b-Gl.  Turkish  for  a  pack- 
horse;  they  should  also  arrange,  in  order  to  avoid  great  loss  in 
selling  again,  to  give  the  mukari  about  20  per  cent  of  the  selling- 
price.  The  mukari  receives  about  l'/2  to  2J.  Turkish  monthly.  The 
average  cost  of  feeding  the  horses  ^barley  ,  see  p.  liii)  is  about 
I-IV4  fit-  daily  per  head,  but  this  rate  may  easily  be  quadrupled  after 
a  bad  harvest.  On  the  whole  it  is  not  much  dearer  to  hire  the 
horses  than  to  buy  them.  The  mukari  treats  the  horses  of  his  Arab 
master  more  carefully  than  those  of  the  traveller  and  is,  moreover, 
apt  to  cheat  the  latter  in  the  matter  of  fodder. 

The  health  of  the  traveller  and  his  capacity  for  making  scientific 
observations  will  depend  very  largely  upon  comfortable  night- 
quarters  and  good  food.  Experienced  and  hardy  travellers  may 
possibly  limit  themselves  to  a  light  camp-bed  or  a  mattress  stuffed 
with  wool  or  cotton,  which  may  be  purchased  in  Aleppo;  but  as  a 
general  rule,  it  is  certainly  desirable  to  have  a  tent  also  (p.  x\iii). 
The  notes  at  p.  xvii  give  some  idea  of  the  inconveniences  of  passing 
the  night  in  the  caravanserais  or  in  the  native  huts.  To  cope  with 
the  plague  of  vermin,  many  travellers  recommend  a  wide  sleeping- 
bag  of  thin  but  strong  sheeting,  drawn  round  the  neck  by  a  string. 
Insect-powder,  see  pp.  xxi.  xxii.  An  abundant  supply  of  woollen 
or  camel's -hair  rugs  is  desirable.    The  traveller  should  be   well 


Notet. 


AND  BABYLONIA. 


391 


provided  with  European  canned  goods,  and  should  not  forget  potatoes 
and  flour ;  red  wine  and  brandy  are  also  desirable.  A  month's  supply 
of  provisions  for  six  persons  makes  just  about  half  a  horse-load. 
The  only  kinds  of  food  that  one  can  count  on  procuring  en  route  are 
mutton  (lahem  null  ghanam),  poultry  (fowl,  hen,  dejdjeh;  cock, 
dllsli),  rggs  (egg,  btede,  plural,  bled;  price  for  three,  1  'asheri  or 
metallik),  tolerable  bread  (khubz),  honey  ('asal),  and  sour  ewe-milk 
(shimneh).  In  the  bazaars  of  Uifa  and  Mosul,  and  also  in  many 
smaller  places,  sugar  (shekkarj,  coffee  (gahioeh),  rice  (timmen),  tea 
(tshai),  and  tobacco  (tutun)  may  also  be  obtained ;  but  chocolate, 
cocoa,  and  biscuits  are  nowhere  procurable.  If  a  cook  is  hired  for 
the  journey,  he  generally  provides  the  necessary  utensils  and  dishes. 
These  should  include  a  tea-kettle,  drinking-cups,  a  full  supply  of 
cooking-utensils,  enamelled  tin  plates,  knives,  forks,  spoons,  nap- 
kins, dish-towels,  Arabian  coffee-cups  for  the  reception  of  visitors 
(p.  xxvii),  an  alcohol-lamp,  a  native  lantern  (funds)  protected 
by  wire  netting,  and  matches  (shihhdt;  one  match,  shihhdta).  The 
supplies  of  alcohol  and  of  candles  for  the  lantern  can  be  renewed 
in  towns. 

The  tourist  should  take  with  him  his  evening-clothes,  not  only 
for  visiting  the  pashas  and  other  high  Turkish  officials,  but  for  use 
in  Baghdad,  where  all  the  social  forms  of  Europe  are  observed.  As 
large  trunks  cannot  be  carried  by  the  sumpter-horses,  it  is  advisable 
to  pack  one's  clothes  in  Gladstone  bags  or  dress-suit  cases.  The 
native  saddle-bags  (khurj,  p.  xx)  will  also  be  found  useful. 

An  escort  is  imperatively  necessary  (p.  xxvi).  As  a  rule,  one 
or  two  Zaptiehs  are  enough,  their  pay  ('/-j-I  mejidi  per  day  each) 
should  be  agreed  upon  beforehand.  They  expect  to  share  the  meals 
of  the  servants.  At  the  stopping- places,  especially  in  Christian 
houses,  the  zaptiehs  are  prone  to  make  exorbitant  demands,  for 
which  the  host  expects  compensation  from  the  traveller.  The  pos- 
session of  a  tent  relieves  one  from  this  difficulty. 

Money  for  the  Tour.  The  bankers  at  Aleppo  and  Baghdad  issue 
letters  of  credit  upon  Mosul  and  other  large  towns.  As,  however, 
the  current  expenses  en  route  are  comparatively  small  and  the  rate 
of  exchange  constantly  changes,  the  best  plan  is  to  carry  enough 
Turkish,  English,  or  French  gold  (comp.  p.  xxiii)  to  supply  one's 
needs  from  Aleppo  to  Baghdad.  The  traveller  should  have  an  ample 
provision  of  small  coins  (i.e.  whole,  half,  and  quarter  mejidis), 
which  he  can  procure  by  changing  larger  pieces  at  the  bazaars. 
Gold  coins  should  never  be  displayed  in  the  villages. 

British  or  American  Consular  Representatives  are  to  be  found  at 
Aleppo,  Basra  (Bassorah),  Baghdad,  Diarbekr,  Mosul,  and  Kerbelii. 

Geographical  Sketch.  —  Neither  geography  nor  history  offers 
any  general  name  for  the  district  watered  by  the  Euphrates  (Arabic 
el-Frdt)  and  the  I'igris  (Arabic  ed-Dijleh) ,  which  is  bounded  on 
the  N.  by  the  Armenian  Taurus,  on  the  E.  by  the  Iranian  frontier 

24* 


msm 


•i*w**^ 


B9 


392 


MESOPOTAMIA 


Geography. 


mountains,  on  the  S.E.  by  the  Persian  Gulf,  and  on  the  S.  and  E. 
by  the  Syrian  Desert  ami  the  Syrian  Mountains.  Traditional  isage 
applies  the.  name  of  Mesopotamia  (land  between  the  streams,  Arabic 
eL-Jezireh,  i.e.  the  island)  to  the  upper  or  N.W.  portion  of  the 
district,  roughly  extending  to  a  line  drawn  from  Deli  r Abbas 
(p.  40B)  to  KaVat  Felliija  (p.  412),  while  the  lower  or  S.E.  portion 
is  known  as  Babylonia  (Arabic  'Irak  'Arabi). 

The  N.  part  of  Mesopotamia  is  formed  by  a  Mountainous  and 
Hilly  District,  which  extends  from  W.  toE.  under  the  high  moun- 
tains of  the  Taurus  for  a  distance  of  375  M.,  with  an  average  breadth 
of  45-60  M.  The  geological  character  of  this  district  varies  in 
different  parts.  The  most  conspicuous  features  are  the  volcanic  Kara j a 
Dagh  (p.  400)  and  the  Tur  'A6<im(p.  403),  upon  which  considerable 
quantities  of  snow  fall  in  winter.  Numerous  streams  descending 
from  these  unite  on  the  plain  to  form  the  rivers  of  Bellkh  (p.  398), 
Khdbur  (p.  412),  and  Jaghjagh  (p.  403).  The  most  important  town 
is  Diarbekr  (p.  400).  — Below  these  foot-hills  of  the  Taurus  6tretches 
the  Mesopotamian  Plain,  the  N.  part  of  which,  as  far  as  the  Sinjar 
Mountains  (p  403),  usually  has  a  sufficient  rainfall  to  produce 
abundant  crops  of  wheat  and  barley.  In  consequence  of  this,  the 
country  was  also  thickly  populated  in  antiquity,  as  is  proved  not  only 
by  the  flourishing  condition  of  such  towns  as  Edessa  (Urfa,  p.  397), 
Tela-Anloninupolis  (p.  400),  and  Nisibis  (p.  403)  in  the  Graeco- 
Poman  period,  but  also  by  the  innumerable  Hells' .  or  heaps  of  ruins, 
extending  to  the  bank  of  the  Euphrates,  among  which  numerous 
other  settlements  undoubtedly  lay.  The  S.E.  part  of  the  plain, 
beginning  at  the  lower  course  of  the  Khabur  and  the  Sinjar  Mts., 
consists  mostly  of  barren  Steppes,  which  are  almost  destitute  of 
rainfall  and  are  so  situated  as  to  make  artificial  irrigation  almost, 
impracticable.  Their  gravelly  surface  is  covered  in  spring  with  a 
thin  growth  of  grass,  which  serves  the  Bedouins  for  pasture.  The 
only  suggestion  of  by-gone  cultivation  is  afforded  by  the  numerous 
'tells'  in  the  N.  angle,  between  the  Sinjar  Mts.  and  Mosul  (p.  404). 
—  The  steppes  are  adjoined  by  the  Babylonian  Alluvial  Plain 
(the  so-caLled  Sawad,  i.e.  black  and  fruitful  earth),  which  embraces 
not  only  the  district  between  the  two  great  rivers  but  also  the  lower 
courses  of  the  E.  affluents  of  the  Tigris.  The  gigantic  system  of 
irrigation,  which  in  antiquity  and  the  early  middle  ages  reclaimed 
for  cultivation  a  district  of  about  the  size  of  the  Italian  Peninsula, 
has  gradually  fallen  into  decay  and  disuse  since  the  irruption  of  the 
Arabs  (p.  395).  The  extensive  embankments  which  mark  the  course 
of  the  old  canals  are  to-day  almost  the  only  witnesses  of  the  former 
prosperity  of  the  country. 

The  present  Population  of  Mesopotamia  and  Babylonia  is 
estimated  at  the  most  at  1^2  million  souls.  About  one-third  of 
these  live  in  the  towns,  while  fully  one-fifth  are  nomadic  or  semi- 
nomadic  in  their  habits.     The  rest   of  the   population  consists  of 


History. 


AND  BABYLONIA. 


393 


peasant-farmers,  most  of  whom  occupy  the  narrow  strips  on  both 
sides  of  the  great  caravan-route  from  Aleppo  to  Baghdad  via.  Urfa 
and  Mosul,  which  enjoy  a  condition  of  comparative  military  security. 
The  prevailing  language  is  Arabic,  though  the  only  Arabs  of  pure 
blood  are  the  nomads  of  the  steppes  (comp.  p.  lviii).  The  settled 
population  is  a  mixture  of  descendants  of  the  ancient  Babylonians, 
Assyrians,  and  Aramaeans,  and  of  immigrant  Turks ,  Kurds,  and 
Armenians.  The  Kurds  are  predominant  in  the  N.  parts  of  the 
mountainous  district  and  in  the  province  of  Seruj  (p.  397),  but 
various  Armenian  villages  and  distri  ts  are  interspersed  among 
them.  Turkish  is  spoken  in  the  towns  ofBirejik,Urfa,  andDiarbekr; 
the  Arabic  district  begins  immediately  to  the  8.  of  the  lirst  two 
of  these;  the  people  to  the  S.  of  Diarbekr  speak  Kurdish  and 
Armenian;  Mardtn  (p.  403)  is  Arabic.  On  the  Tigris,  Kurdish  is 
spoken  as  far  as  Joziret  Ibn  rOmar  (p.  40'2),  while  upon  the  left 
bank  it  extends  almost  from  the  gates  of  Mosul  to  Kerkuk  (p.  400) 
on  the.  S.  Beyond  these  points  Arabic  is  the  prevalent  speech.  In 
and  near  Baghdad  are  about  50,000  descendants  of  Jews,  deported 
hither  in  the  Assyrian-Babylonian  period,  who  have  remained  true 
to  their  religion  down  to  the  present  day.  In  Tur'Abdin  (p.  403) 
and  other  inaccessible  mountain-districts  there  are  also  many  Syrian 
Jacobite  villages  and  towns  which  have  preserved  their  Christian 
faith  for  many  centuries.  The  population  of  the  larger  towns  also 
includes  many  Jacobites,  Chaldeans,  Nestorians,  and  other  sects  of 
early  Oriental  Christians  (pp.  lx  et  seq.). 

History.  —  Our  knowledge  of  the  history  of  Babylon  reaches 
well  into  the  4th  millenium  before  Christ,  though  before  that  period 
the  development  of  Babylonian  culture  had  already  passed  its  zenith. 
The  origin  of  this  prehistoric  culture,  as  well  as  of  the  system  of 
cuneiform  writing,  is  commonly  attributed  to  the  non-  Semitic 
Sumerians  or  Akkadians ,  the  earliest  known  inhabitants  of  the 
country.  This  view  involves  the  theory  that  the  land  was  overrun 
by  an  immigration  of  the  Semites  (p.  lxxv)  about  B.  C.  3500.  Other 
authorities,  however,  maintain  that  the  civilization  of  the  great 
alluvial  plain  was  originally  Semitic,  while  the  so-called  Sumerian 
Language  and  alphabet  are  but  parts  of  an  artificial  hieratic  system. 
The  earliest  important  Semitic-Babylonian  kings  of  whom  we  have 
any  record  are  Saryon  of  Agade  or  Akkad  (ca.  B.  C.  3800),  whoso 
empire  extended  at  least  nominally  to  the  Mediterranean,  and  his 
almost  equally  famous  son,  Nardm-Sin  (ca.  B.  C.  3750).  About  B.C. 
2200  Khammumbi  (Hammurabi)  of  Babylon  united  the  various  small 
states  of  the  alluvial  plain  into  one  kingdom,  with  Babylon,  hitherto 
a  place  of  no  importance,  as  metropolis.  The  code  of  laws  promul- 
gated by  this  king  is  the  oldest  now  extant  and  exhibits  many 
points  of  resemblance  to  the  Biblical  commandments.  The  dynasty 
of  Khammurabi  ruled  also  over  Syria  and  probably  over  the  N.  <lis- 


1^ — a» aw— www^rag^w^g 
■^■^■H^B^alBEBEBEBBBDlElRlBBDiBBBlBfl 


BS81 


394 


MESOPOTAMIA 


Historv. 


tricts  on  tlie  Tigris.  From  this  titne,  thougli  the  names  of  many 
kings  are  recorded,  little  is  known  of  the  history  of  the  country 
until  about  1500  B.C.,  when  we  find  Babylon  under  the  dominion  of 
the  Cassites,  who  probably  descended  on  the  S.E.  from  the  Iranian 
Mts.  and  quickly  accommodated  themselves  to  the  Babylonian 
civilization.  About  this  time,  too,  the  rising  star  of  Assyria,  on 
the  N.,  began  to  come  into  evidence.  The  clay  tablets  of  Tell  el- 
'Ainarna  mentioned  at  p.  Ixxv  also  contain  letters  of  the  kings 
of  Babylon  and  Ashur  and  of  the  Hittite  princes  of  the  Milanni 
to  the  Pharaohs,  a  proof  that  at  the  end  of  the  loth  cent.  B.C.  the 
language  and  civilization  of  Babylonia  enjoyed  an  international 
vogue  extending  over  the  whole  of  \V.  Asia  as  far  as  Egypt.  The 
hegemony  over  the  territories  of  the  Tigris  and  Euphrates  now  os- 
cillated for  a  prolonged  period  between  Babylon  and  the  vigorously 
growing  Ashur.  In  the  12th  cent.  B.C.  Nebuchadnezzar  I.  for  a 
short  time  re-established  the  dominion  of  Babylon  over  the  entire 
territory  between  the  S.  sea  and  the  W.  sea.  Somewhere  about 
1100  or  1000  B.C.  we  have  to  chronicle  a  last  invasion  of  hordes  of 
Semite  warriors  in  the  shape  of  the  Chaldeans,  coming  probably 
from  the  interior  of  Arabia.  Starting  at  the  estuary  of  the  rivers, 
these  warriors  spread  over  the  whole  of  Babylonia  and  Mesopotamia, 
establishing  a  number  of  small  states,  among  which  Babylon  was 
distinguished  simply  as  a  centre  of  religion  and  culture. 

In  the  reign  of  Ashur-naslr-pal  III.  (885-860  B.C.)  Assyria 
attained  the  position  of  the  leading  power  in  Hither  Asia.  This 
king  conquered  the  whole  of  Mesopotamia  and  exacted  tribute  from 
the  small  states  of  Syria  and  Phoenicia.  His  successor  ShalmaneserU. 
(860-825)  broke  the  power  of  the  Aramaean  kingdom  of  Damascus 
and  extended  the  protectorate  of  Assyria  over  Babylon.  Under 
Tiylath-Pileser  III.  (745-727),  Sargon  (722-705),  and  Sennacherib 
(705-681)  the  Assyrian  power  reached  its  zenith.  In  689  B.C. 
Sennacherib  inflicted  the  severest  penalties  upon  the  city  of  Baby- 
lon, which  was  constantly  rising  in  rebellion.  He  razed  the  city 
and  its  temples  to  the  ground  and  turned  the  waters  of  the  Euphrates 
over  its  site.  But  the  natural  conditions  and  in  particular  the  needs  of 
the  international  traffic  of  which  this  was  a  focus  proved  stronger  than 
the  decrees  of  the  military  monarchy  of  Nineveh.  Sennacherib's  own 
son  Esarhaddon  (681-668)  had  to  order  the  rebuilding  of  Babylon. 
This  king  divided  his  dominions  between  his  two  sons,  assigning 
Assyria  to  Ashur-bani-pal(Sardanapalus)  and  Babylon  to  Shamash- 
ahum-ukln.  The  latter  leagued  himself  with  neighbouring  kingdoms 
against  his  brother,  but  perished  in  648  B.C.  on  the  capture  of 
Babylon  by  Ashur-bani-pal.  Ashur-bani-pal  (d.  626)  was  followed 
in  succession  by  his  two  sons  Ashur-etil-ildni  and  Sir.-shar-ishJcun, 
the  latter  of  whom  succumbed  to  a  combined  attack  of  the  Medes 
and  Babylonians.  The  fall  of  Nineveh  (p.  404;  ca.  607  B.C. )  marked 
the  end  of  the  Assyrian  kingdom. 


History. 


AND  BABYLONIA. 


395 


Babylon  had  already  attained  its  independence  on  the  death  of 
Ashur-bani-pal.  The  founder  of  this  New  Babylonian  Empire  was 
the  Chaldean  Nabopolassar  (625-605).  His  son  Nebuchadnezzar  II. 
(605-561)  extended  his  dominion  over  the  whole  of  Mesopotamia 
and  Syria  (comp.  p.  397).  Soon  after  this  a  new  power  in  the  shape 
of  the  Persians  comes  into  prominence.  Cyrus  ( 559-529 ),  a  member 
of  the  dynasty  of  the  Achsemenians,  overthrew  the  power  of  the 
Medes  and  conquered  Babylon  (539)  and  Asia  Minor.  Cambyses 
(529-521)  conquered  Egypt.  Darius  the  Great  (521-485)  subdued 
the  rebellious  Babylon  for  the  second  time  and  extended  the  bounds 
of  his  kingdom  to  Europe  (Thrace,  Macedonia).  His  generals,  how- 
ever, were  defeated  by  the  Greeks  at  Marathon  (490),  and  his  son 
Xerxes  (485-465)  was  overthrown  at  Salamis.  The  Achaemenian- 
Persian  dynasty  ruled  over  the  whole  of  \V.  Asia  for  more  than  two 
centuries.  In  334  B.C.  Alexander  the  Great  began  his  triumphant 
progress,  and  the  battle  of  Gaugamela  (p.  405)  decided  the  fate  of 
the  Persian  kingdom.  After  the  death  of  Alexander,  which  occurred 
at  Babylon  in  323  B.C.,  Babylonia  and  Mesopotamia  fell  to  the 
Seleucid^;  (p.  lxxxviii),  who  maintained  their  dominion  till  ca.  the 
middle  of  the  2nd  cent.  R.C. ;  their  capital  was  Seleucia  (p.  410). 
The  Parthians  then  wrested  the  sovereignty  of  the  empire  in  the 
E.  part  of  Hither  Asia  from  the  Syrian  monarchs,  capturing  Se- 
leucia and  founding  Ctesiphon  (p.  410)  on  the  opposite  (E.)  bank. 
Their  wars  with  the  Romans  for  the  possession  of  Mesopotamia  were 
endless  and  bloody.  A  fortunate  campaign  brought  the  Emperor 
Trajan  in  117  A.D.  to  the  neighbourhood  of  the  Persian  Gulf; 
Babylonia  became,  indeed,  nominally  for  a  short  time  a  Roman 
province,  but  the  Romans  found  it  possible  to  exercise  a  permanent 
sway  over  the  N.  districts  only.  On  the  downfall  of  the  Parthian 
power  in  227  A.D.,  the  New  Persian  Kingdom  of  the  Sassanides 
took  up  the  contest  with  Rome.  The  possession  of  Upper  Meso- 
potamia oscillated  constantly  between  the  two  great  powers  of  the 
E.  and  W.  So  far  as  we  know,  however,  the  districts  cf  the 
Euphrates  and  Tigris  attained  their  highest  state  of  economical 
prosperity  in  the  later  period  of  the  Sassanides.  Under  Kings 
Chosroes  or  Chosrau  I.  (531-579)  and  Chosroes  II.  (591-628)  about 
nine-tenths  of  the  great  alluvial  plain  were  under  cultivation;  the 
return  of  the  land-tax  amounted  to  35,000,000/.  in  our  money;  the 
royal  residence  of  Ctesiphon  was  the  most  important  town  of  the 
world  of  its  period  ;  the  number  of  people  living  between  the  Persian 
Gulf  and  Mt.  Taurus  amounted  to  10  or  12  millions  (comp   p.  393). 

The  decay  of  this  fertile  territory  begins  with  the  invasion  of 
the  Arabs,  who  shattered  the  kingdom  of  the  Sassanides  in  the 
battles  of  Kadisiyeh  (to  the  S.  of  Babylon)  in  636  and  of  Nehawend 
(to  the  S.  of  Ecbatana)  about  642.  Even  in  the  best  days  of  the 
caliphate,  under  Harun  er-Ra»hld  and  el-Ma'mun  (p.  407),  the 
nscal  revenues  were  far  below  the  height  previously  attained.    The 


RS3 


396 


Route  48. 


MEMBIJ. 


From  Aleppo 


downfall  of  the  political  power  of  the  caliphate  and  the  appearance 
of  the  Turkish  migratory  tribes  in  \V.  Asia  sealed  the  fate  of  the 
old  civilization.  From  every  side  these  unruly  and  predatory 
nomads  spread  over  the  whole  district.  The  last  blow  was  given 
by  the  Mongolian  irruptions  of  the  13th  and  14th  centuries.  "When 
the  modern  Turks  conquered  the  lands  of  the  two  great  riven  in 
1638,  these  consisted  mainly  of  steppe  and  desert.  The  soil,  however, 
still  retains  its  capacity  for  agricultural  wealth,  the  rivers  still 
contain  as  much  water,  and  the  rainfall  in  the  N.  part  of  the  terri- 
tory is  still  as  high  as  of  yore.  Political  security  and  the  use  of 
modern  means  of  cultivation  and  transportation  are  all  that  is  needed 
to  resuscitate  the  old  prosperity  and  to  produce  exuberant  crops  of 
cotton,  corn,  and  other  vegetable  products.  The  construction  of  the 
Baghdad  Railway  (p.  389)  is  the  first  step  in  this  direction. 

Bibliography  :  A.  H.  Layard,  Nineveh  and  its  Remains  (London  ;  13b7), 
Monuments  of  Nineveh  (London;  1850),  and  Discoveries  in  the  Ruins  of 
Nineveh  and  Babylon  (London;  1S53) ;  W.  K.  Loftus,  Travels  and  Re- 
searches in  Chaldea  and  Susiana  (London ;  1857,);  li.  W.  Rogers.  History  of 
Babylonia  and  Assyria  (New  York;  1900);  O.  S.  Goodspeed,  History  of  the 
Babylonians  and  Assyrians  (New  York;  1902);  Lady  Anne  Blunt,  The 
Bedouin  Tribes  of  the  Euphrates  (Loudon  ;  1880) ;  F.  li.  Chesney,  Narrative  of 
the  Euphrates  Expedition  (London;  1868);  W.  F.  Ainsworth,  The  Euphrates 
Expedition  (London;  1888);  John  F.  Peters,  Nippur,  the  University  of  Penn- 
sylvania Expedition  to  Babylonia  in  1888-90  (Philadelphia;  18'J8);  Clarence 
S.  Fisher,  Excavations  at  Nippur,  Babylonian  Expedition  of  the  University 
of  Pennsylvania  of  1889  1900  (1'art  I.;  Philadelphia,  1905);  Guy  Le  Strange., 
The  Lands  of  the  Eastern  Caliphate  (London;  1905);  //.  Valentine  Geere, 
By  Nile  and  Euphrates  (Edinburgh;  1903,  illus.). 


48.  From  Aleppo  to  Urfa  (Edessa). 

3-4  days.  Carriage  5-8/.  Turkish,  from  Alexandretta  9-11J.  Turkish  (the 
latter  fare  should  include  waiting  in  Aleppo  several  days).  Those  who 
drive  only  as  far  as  Membij,  with  the  view  of  making  the  detour  thence 
via  Birejik  (p.  397),  would  do  well  to  send  on  saddle-horses  in  advance 
from  Aleppo  in  order  to  avoid  delay. 

The  road  strictly  so-called  extends  for  only  a  few  leagues  to 
the  E.  of  Aleppo,  but  the  rest  of  the  route  offers  no  special  diffi- 
culties for  carriages.  By  starting  early,  travellers  may  reach  Membij 
in  one  day.  In  other  cases  the  night  is  spent  at  Bab,  about  20  M. 
to  the  E.  of  Aleppo,  where  the  route  turns  towards  the  N.E. 

Membij  is  a  village  settled  by  Circassians  after  the  Russo- 
Turkish  war  of  1877-78  (comp.  p.  232).  Nightquarters  may  be 
obtained  in  the  khan  or  on  application  to  the  village-chief;  the 
traveller  should  be  on  his  guard  against  pilfering.  Membij  is  the 
ancient  Alabog  (Greek  Bambyke),  the  Graeco-Rouian  Hierapolis,  and 
was  formerly  a  chief  seat  of  the  manufacture  of  cotton.  [Pambuk 
is  to  this  day  the  Turkish  name  for  cotton  and  cotton-w  adding.] 
The  outlines  of  a  theatre  and  a  stadium  are  recognizable.  The  large 
pond  was  once  adjoined  by  a  sanctuary  of  the  Dea  Syra  (Astarte, 
comp.  p.  398).   Hierapolis  was  the  starting-point  of  the  unfortunate 


to  Vrfa. 


URFA. 


48,  Route.    397 


oriental  campaign  of  Crassus  in  53  B.C.,    and  of  the  equally  un- 
lucky campaign  of  Julian  the  Apostate  in  363  A.D. 

Instead  of  tbe  route  described  below,  equestrians  may  proceed  from 
Membij  to  Urfa  via,  Bikejik  (3-4  days).  We  cross  tbe  Sajtir  about  10'/2  M. 
to  tbe  N.  of  Membij ,  pass  to  the  W.  of  the  extensive  ruined  site  of 
Sreisdt,  and  reach  our  nigbtquarters  at  (ca.  12'/2  M.)  the  village  of  Jerdbit 
or  Jerablils,  on  the  right  bank  of  the  Euphrates.  The  plain  which  extends 
to  the  N.  from  this  village  to  (\.l/t1l.)  the  great  Tell  of  Carchemish  (Jerablds- 
Kal'a)  was  probably  the  scene  of  the  decisive  battle  of  Carcltemish,  by  which 
Nebuchadnezzar  (comp.  p.  395),  the  heir-apparent  to  the  Bab)  Ionian  throne, 
checked  tbe  conquering  career  of  Pharaoh  Necho  of  Egypt  (605  B.C.).  In 
tbe  (jrseco-Roman  period  tbe  great  military  road  from  W.  to  E.  here 
crossed  the  Euphrates.  The  place  was  then  known  as  Europos ,  and  it 
wiis  here  that  tbe  Romans  succeeded  in  crossing  in  163  A.D.  in  spile  of 
the  opposition  of  the  Parthians.  The  route  from  JeraMs  to  (17  M. ;  ca.  6  hrs.) 
Birejik  ascends  along  the  right  bank  of  tbe  Euphrates,  and  also  oilers 
many  points  of  interest.  About  halfway  we  cross  the  little  river  of  Kerzin. 
We  finally  cross  by  ferry  to  the  left  bank  of  the  Euphrates  at  a  point 
which  has  been  one  of  the  most  important  crossing-places  of  tbe  great  river 
from  lime  immemorial.  —  The  little  town  of  Birejik  (1250  ft.),  containing 
10,000  inhab.,  most  of  whom  are  Turks  (comp.  p.  393),  is  surrounded  by 
a  wall  and  protected  by  a  rock-citadel.  It  was  known  as  Bira  in  the  time 
of  tbe  Crusades  and  also  played  a  part  in  tbe  Mongolian  contests  of  tbe  13th 
century.  — Tbe  route  from  Birejik  to  (ca.  50  M.)  Urfa  leads  via  Tskarmelik, 
where  the  night  is  spent.     A  road  is  now  in  course  of  construction. 

Those  who  are  driving  proceed  direct  from  Membij  to  Urfa,  a 
distance  of  about  80  M.,  taking  two  long  days  and  necessitating  an 
early  start.  We  cross  the  Euphrates  about  15  M.  to  the  N.E.  of 
Membij,  a  little  below  the  mouth  of  the  Sajur.  The  ferry-boat  is 
generally  to  be  found  opposite  Tell  el-Ahmar;  and  travellers  will 
find  reason  to  admire  the  dexterity  of  the  boatmen  in  carrying  the 
carriage  across  the  broad  and  rapid  stream  in  their  crazy  craft,  from 
Tell  el-Ahmar  our  route  (no  proper  road)  traverses  first  the  steppe 
and  then  the  well-cultivated  Plain  ofSeruj,  with  numerous  villages 
(best  nightquarters  at  Eslci-SerCij    ca.  28  M.  horn  Tell  el-Ahmar). 

There  are  two  routes  from  Sertij  to  Urfa,  each  taking  about  a  day. 
The  shorter  but  rougher  route- proceeds  to  the  N.W.  across  a  barren 
rocky  district  (ca.  2300  ft.  above  the  sea),  strewn  with  ancient  ruins, 
and  joins  the  new  road  from  Birejik  about  1^2  tr.  short  of  Urfa. 
The  longer  but  better  route  makes  a  sweep  to  the  S.E.  through  the 
plain,  skirts  the  Serdj  Dagh,  and  then  runs  to  the  N.  along  the  E. 
side  of  the  Nimrttd  Dagh  to  Urfa. 

TJrfa.  —  Accommodation  may  be  obtained  with  the  aid  of  the  German 
Oriental  Mission  ('Deutsche  Orient  -  Mission' ;  Dr.  Johann  Lepsius,  Gross- 
Li  chterfelde,  near  Berlin),  which  has  its  chief  seat  in  Urfa,  where  it  pos- 
sesses a  large  orphanage  with  30!)  Armenian  children,  a  carpet- factory 
(manager,  Franz  Eckart),  and  a  medical  station.  —  The  horses  of  Vrfa  have 
a  good  reputation,  and  travellers  who  have  come  thus  far  by  carriage  may 
buy  saddle  horses  here  for  the  continuation  of  their  journey. 

Vrfa  (1970  ft.)  or  Orfa,  the  Greek  Edessa,  the  capital  of  the 
Sanjak  of  the  same  name,  contains  about  30,000  inhab.  (one-fourth 
Christian  Armenians,  a  few  Jacobites,  and  the  rest  Turks  and  Kurds), 
and  lies  at  the  base  of  the  foot-hills  of  the  Taurus  chain,  to  the  N.E. 


4ii*  ■*■?■*$•* 


M 


398    Route  48. 


URFA. 


of  theNimrfid  Dagh,  which  runs  hence  towards  theS.  It  is  overlooled 
hy  the  ruins  of  an  ancient  citadel.  The  streets  are  narrow  and  crooked. 
The  Syrian  ;md  Armenian  name  for  Ihe  town  was  Urhai,  and  s  is 
still  sometimes  called  Kuhd  by  the  Arabs.  The  Greeks  recbristenei  it 
Kdetta,  but  also  used  the  form  Orrhoe  or  Osrhoe.  Seleueusl.  (p.  lxxxvii)  is 
said  to  have  greatly  enlarged  the  town.  About  136  B.C.  Una  became  the 
seat,  of  a  dynasty  of  its  own,  the  so-called  'Abgars'  of  Orrhoene,  who  were 
nominally  dependent  first  on  the  Seleucidse  and  then  on  the  Romms. 
The  fifth  Abgar  (13-50  A.I). )  is  said  to  have  interchanged  letters  with  Jisus 
Christ;  these  were  issued  by  Ensebius  (p.  35)  in  a  Greek  translation,  but 
have  long  been  recognized  as  spurious.  In  '217  A.D.  the  district  was  ab- 
sorbed by  the  Romans  and  the  town  converted  into  a  Roman  colony  urxier 
the  name  of  Marcia  Edesttnorum.  The  Aramaic  dialect  of  Edessa  became 
the  common  written  language  of  the  Aramaic  Christians.  In  the  First 
Crusade  Baldwin  (p.  lxxxiii)  made  himself  Prince  of  Edessa  in  1097;  his 
successors  held  the  place  as  an  outlying  bulwark  against  the  Muslims  dawn 
to  1144,  when  Jocelyn  II.  was  defeated  and  slain  by  EmirZengi  Of  JIo-ul. 
At  a  later  period  the  country  was  devastated  by  Mongolians,  Egyptims, 
ami  the  hordes  of  Timur  the  Tartar  (p.  lxxxv).  The  campaign  of  Sultan 
Selim  1.  united  Syria  and  Mesopotamia  with  the  Turkish  kingdom  (1516-17). 

The  largest  building  of  the  town  is  the  Armenian  Greaor.an 
Cathedral,  in  1896,  during  the  terrible  massacre  of  the  Christian 
Armenians  perpetrated  by  Muslims  and  Kurds,  not  without  '.he 
aid  of  the  Turkish  soldiers,  more  than  1000  victims  took  refuge  in 
this  building  ami  were  suffocated  hy  the  smoke  of  burning  carpets 
and  mats,  previously  soaked  in  petroleum.  The  Chief  Mosque  lias  a 
large  octagonal  tower,  which  probably  belonged  originally  to  a 
Christian  church  of  the  time  of  Justinian.  The  two  Sacred  Ponds 
are  remnants  of  the  primaeval  cult  of  the  goddess  Atargatis  (Astarte, 
Derketo).  The  outer  pond  is  surrounded  by  fine  old  trees  and  in- 
habited by  innumerable  carp,  to  this  day  regarded  as  sacred.  The 
square  tower  on  its  S.  side  belonged  to  a  church  of  the  Crusaders. 
The  inner  pond  is  surrounded  by  a  rectangular  wall  and  enclosed 
by  religious  buildings,  including  the  so-called  Mosque  of  Abraham, 
with  the  traditional  birthplace  of  that  patriarcli  (comp.  below).  The 
abrupt  rocky  Tidge  upon  which  the  Citadel  stands  is  separated  from 
the  rest  of -the  hill  by  a  broad  and  deep  moat  hewn  in  the  rock. 
The  two  huge  columns  probably  belong  to  a  vanished  temple  of 
Baal-Jupiter. 

Excursions.  About  25  M.  (a  ride  of  S  lips.)  to  the  S.E.  lies  Harran 
(accommodation  at  the  village  chiefs),  the  town  from  which  Abraham  set 
out  for  Canaan  after  the  death  of  his  father  Terah;  it  is  mentioned  in 
Gen.  xi.  31,  xii.  5.,  etc.,  and  in  various  Assyrian  and  Babylonian  cuneiform 
inscriptions.  The  old  temple  of  the  god  of  the  moon  was  rebuilt  by  N»- 
bonidus  of  Babylon  in  556-539  B.C.  Harran  was  the  liarrhae  (Carrhae)  of  the 
(ireeks  and  Romans,  known  in  history  for  the  terrible  defeat  inflicted  by  Ihe 
Parthians  in  63  B.C.  on  the  consul  M.  I.icinius  Crassus,  who  encountered 
them  here  on  the  bank  of  the  Balissos  (now  BelikK)  at  the  head  of  7  legions, 
40110  light-armed  troops,  and  4000  horsemen.  At  a  later  date  the  town  was 
a  chief  seat  of  the  Sabsean  religion  and  was  also  of  considerable  importance 
as  a  commercial  centre.  A  number  of  low  'tells'  on  both  sides  of  ihe  It'uhr 
el-KUt,  the  chief  source  of  the  Belikh,  date  from  the  pre-Roman  period.  Of 
a  later  date  are  the  ruins  of  a  Romano-Arabic  castle  and  of  a  Christian 
cathedral  said  to  have  been  converted  by  Saladin  into  a  mosque;  the  lofty 
bell-tower  of  the  latter  is  conspicuous  for  many  leagues  around.    In  the 


HABKSIII. 


49.  Route.    399 


vicinity  is  the  so-called  Well  of  liebecat,  where  Rleazar  met  tbe  daughter  of 
Bethuel  (Gen.  xxiv.  16).  —  About  i)0M.  to  the  N.W.  of  Urfa,  on  the  Euphrates, 
lies  the  village  of  Sams  at,  the  ancient  Samosata,  the  capital  of  the  princi- 
pality of  Commagene,  which  is  mentioned  under  the  form  of  Kummukh  as 
early  as  the  Ilth  cent.  B.C.,  and  was  afterwards  conquered  liy  the  Assyrians. 
After  the  downfall  of  the  kingdom  of  the  Seleucidse,  Samosata  remained 
in  possession  of  a  branch  of  this  dynasty  down  to  73  A.l).  The  ancient 
remains  include  the  massive  'tell1  upon  which  the  citadel  stood  and  the 
remains  of  the  Human  aqueduct.  Samosata  was  the  birthplace  of  the 
Greek  author  Lucian  (ca.  130-126  B.C.)  and  of  Bishop  Paul  of  Antioch 
(3rd  cent.  A.D. ;  p.  384).  If  the  water  be  high  enough,  it  is  possible  to 
descend  the  Euphrates  on  a  kelek  (p.  401)  from  Samsat  to  Birejik 
(p.  397;  ca.  80M.)  in  one  day.  The  abrupt  rocky  banks  of  the  river  are 
honeycombed  by  ancient  cave-dwellings.  On  the  right  bank  are  the 
remains  of  a  Roman  road,  on  which,  about  50M.  from  Samsat,  are  the 
ruins  of  the  rock-fortress  of  Rdm-Kal'a,  once  a  Romano-Byzantine  strong- 
hold   and   afterwards   the   residence   of  the  Patriarchs   of  Armenia  Minor. 


49.  From  Urfa  to  Diarbekr. 

Carkiage  Boa i),  a  drive  of  4  days.  —  The  Bridle  Path  via  WetrdvtheMr 
(5  days)  is  more  interesting,  but  much  more  fatiguing.  From  Weiranshehir 
one  may  also  proceed  direct  to  Mar  din  (p.  403). 

The  road,  which  is  traversed  by  the  diligence  and  partly  macad- 
amized ,  ascends  to  the  N.E.  from  Urfa  to  the  Jebel  Garmi'ish, 
dossing  several  streams.  The  first  stopping-place  for  the  night  is 
(30  M.)  Jaghli  M&sa  or  (36  M.)  Tsharmuly.  The  second  night,  is 
spent  at  Severek  (2265  ft.),  a  town  with  a  small  bazaar,  about  24M. 
beyond  Tsharmuly.  The  lower  part  of  the  Tell  of  Severek  is  still 
lined  with  large  blocks  of  stone.  Farther  on,  the  road,  which  is 
still  macadamized,  leads  along  the  N.W.  slope  of  the  volcanic  Karaja 
Dayh  (p.  400),  affording  a  magnificent  view  of  the  Armenian  Taurus, 
which  is  covered  with  snow  till  far  on  in  the  summer.  A  drive  of 
10  hrs.  brings  us  to  Habeshi,  the  stopping-place  for  the  third  night, 
whence  Diarbekr  is  reached  in  about  ftl/.2  hrs.  more. 

The  Biding  Route  to  Diarbekr  via  Weiranshehir  (5  days)  should  not 
be  attempted  without,  an  escort  of  at  least  2  or  3  zaptiehs.  Almost  the 
whole  territory  traversed  is  more  or  less  under  the  sway  of  Ibrahim  Pasha 
(see  p.  400),  the  chief  of  the  Melli-Kurus,  who  lives  in  a  constant  state 
of  feud  with  his  Kurdish  and  Arabic  neighbours.  Like  most  of  the 
migratory  Kurdish  tribes,  theMellis  are  organized  into  so-called  Hamidiyeh 
regiments,  and  form  a  kind  of  yeomanry,  which  is  provided  by  the 
Turkish  Government  with  arms  and  ammunition.  —  The  first  day's  march 
crosses  the  beds  of  several  streams  and  reaches  Irinjeh,  the  stopping- 
place  for  the  night,  in  about  7  hrs.  The  route  then  ascends  to  the  N.E. 
to  Tektek  Dagh,  and  next  runs  to  the  E.,  passing  numerous  heaps  of  ancient 
ruins.  About  4  hrs.  ride  beyond  Irinjeh  and  about  2M.  to  the  left  of  the 
path  lie  the  ruins  of  Mehmed  Khan,  consisting  of  massive  vaults  of  hewn 
stone,  surrounded  by  many  ancient  cisterns  and  other  chambers  hewn  in 
the  rock.  This  was  probably  a  Roman  military  station  for  guarding  the 
road.  [Travellers  sometimes  make  this  their  first  nightquarters,  but  in 
late  summer  the  cisterns  are  often  empty,  and  fuel  must  also  be  brought.] 
The  next  part  of  the  route  is  entirely  destitute  of  water  and  the  march 
is  very  fatiguing  for  both  men  and  beasts.  It  is  therefore  desirable  not 
to  attempt  to  go  the  whole  way  from  Irinjeh  to  Weiranshehir  in  one  day 
(11-12  hrs.),   but    to   seek    for   hospitality   in   some   of   the   Kurdish    tents. 


400   Route  49. 


DIARBEKR. 


The  water  in  these  tents  should  not  be  drunk  unboiled.  In  this  case  we 
reach  Weiranshehir  on  the  forenoon  of  the  third  day. 

Weiranshehir,  which  is  built  almost  entirely  among  the  ruins  and 
with  the  hewn  stones  of  the  Roman  A>itoninupolis  (Tela),  is  now  the 
capital  of  Ibrahim  Pasha,  who  expects  a  ceremonial  visit  from  every 
traveller  and  graciously  grants  his  permission  to  investigate  the  ruins. 
If  he  does  not  himself  assign  his  visitor  quarters  for  the  night,  recourse 
may  be  had  to  either  the  Armenian-Catholic  or  the  Armenian-Gregorian 
priest.  The  lower  courses  of  the  Roman  city-wall  have  been  preserved 
in  almost  their  entire  circuit.  A  few  massive  arches  of  the  main  or  E. 
gate  are  still  standing  and  are  now  occupied  by  a  family  of  Kurds.  The 
ruins  of  a  large  church  to  the  W.  of  the  town,  built  of  black  basalt,  date 
from  the  early  Byzantine  period.  The  hamidiyeh  who  acts  as  guide  will 
also  point  out  various  mosaic  floors,  capitals  of  columns,  vaults,  and  other 
'anlikas'  in  the  interior  of  the  courts  and  buildings. 

The  route  from  Weiranshehir  to  Diarbekr  traverses  the  S.E.  slope  of 
the  Karaja  Dagh  (6070  ft.),  and  takes  two  days  of  difficult  and  fatiguing 
travelling.  Water  is  very  scarce  in  summer  and  autumn,  as  the  wells 
(as  indeed  some  nearer  Urfa)  were  filled  up  by  the  Turks  in  1832  to 
hinder  the  march  of  the  Egyptian  army  (p.  lxxxv).  There  are  no  villages, 
and  the  nights  are  spent  either  in  the  open  air  or  in  the  tents  of  the 
Kurds.  The  party  should  either  be  provided  with  a  letter  of  introduction 
from  Ibrahim  Pasha,  or  should  double  the  strength  of  their  escort. 

The  Route  fkom  Wkiranshkuir  to  MaedIn  (p.  403)  takes  2>/<  days.  The 
first  night  is  spent  at  (8  hrs.)  Heleli  Tepeh,  the  second  at  (9  hrs.)  Tell  Ertntn 
(accommodation  at  the  house  of  the  Armenian-Catholic  priest),  which  is 
identified  by  many  authorities  with  the  Roman  Tigranocerta.  It  possesses 
a  large  'tell',  and  about  3/<  M.  to  the  W.  of  the  village  is  an  important 
group  of  ruins,  among  which  an  old  Christian  basilica,  afterwards  con- 
verted into  a  mosque,  is  conspicuous.  Mardin  is  reached  from  Tell  Ermen 
in  3  hrs.  more. 

Diarbekr  (2165  ft.;  accommodation  on  application  to  Br.  Naab, 
head  of  the  medical  station  of  the  German  Oriental  Mission;  Brit, 
vice-consul,  A.  Shipley),  capital  of  the  vilayet  of  the  same  name, 
is  the  ancient  Arnidn,  and  is  still  often  called  by  the  surrounding 
inhabitants  Kara  (i.e.  black)  Amid,  on  account  of  the  dark-hued 
basalt  of  which  the  city-wall  is  built.  The  town,  which  contains 
about  30,000  inhab.  (comp.  p.  393),  has  been  important  since 
ancient  times  as  tlio  meeting-point  of  the  roads  from  the  Mediter- 
ranean via.  Aleppo  and  Damascus,  from  the  Black  Sea  via  Ainasia- 
Kharput  or  Erzerum,  and  from  the  Persian  Gulf  via  Baghdad.  It 
lies  upon  a  basaltic  mound  rising  about  100  ft.  above  the  right  batik 
of  the  Tiyris,  but  nearly  3J^  M.  from  the  river,  which  is  crossed  a 
few  miles  lower  down  by  a  stone-arched  bridge,  the  buttresses  of 
which  are  perhaps  of  Roman  origin.  The  total  value  of  its  imports 
in  1903  was  274,565/.,  of  its  exports  134,714/. 

Constantius,  the  sun  of  Constantino  the  Great,  made  Amida  the  chief 
stronghold  of  the  Romans  in  the  district  of  the  upper  Tigris,  but  it  was 
soon  taken  fr  >m  him  by  the  Sassanide  Shapiir  II.  (310-379  A.D.).  The 
campaign  of  Emperor  Julian  the  Apostate  in  382-3  was  without  result. 
In  the  5th  cent,  the  place  fell  into  the  hands  of  the  Byzantines,  who  main- 
tained possession  of  it,  with  the  exception  of  a  short  Persian  interregnum 
j:i  003,  until  the  AraDe  captured  it  in  Gj3.  After  various  other  vicissitudes, 
the  town  came  finally  into  the  hands  of  the  Turks  in  1517  (p.  393). 

The  City  Wall,  with  about  90  massive  round  and  square  towers, 
resembles  the  Aurelian  Wall  at  Rome,  and  in  its  lower  courses  dates 


THE  TIGRIS. 


SO.  Route.   401 


certainly  not  later  than  the  time  of  Justinian  —  a  fact  which  the 
traveller  should  not  be  led  to  doubt  by  the  numerous  stones  with 
Arabic  inscriptions  which  have  been  let  into  the  wall.  The  four 
gates,  one  at  each  of  the  main  points  of  the  compass,  are  closed  at 
sunset.    The  citadel  is  a  mass  of  ruins. 

The  streets  of  the  town  are  narrow  and  crooked,  but  it  contains 
a  large  and  well-stocked  bazaar  and  good  public  baths.  The  chief 
object  of  interest  is  a  ruined  Palace,  falsely  ascribed  to  Tigranes  the 
Great  of  Armenia  (d.  B.C.  56),  but  probably  dating  from  the  Sassanide 
period.  The  remains  include  a  court  about  140  yds.  broad,  with  a 
tasteful  fountain  in  the  middle  of  it,  and  a  facade  on  each  of  two 
sides,  with  pointed  arches  in  the  two  lower  stories  and  curious- 
looking  columns  overloaded  with  sculptural  decoration.  A  third  side 
is  adjoined  by  the  JJLu  Jami',  the  chief  of  the  50  mosques  of  the 
town;  owing,  however,  to  the  fanatic  character  of  the  Muslim 
population,  its  interior  is  inaccessible. 

About  one-fourth  or  one-third  of  the  inhabitants  of  Diarbekr  are 
Christians,  including  Gregorian,  Catholic,  and  Protestant  Armenians, 
Jacobite  Syrians,  and  members  of  the  Greek  Church.  There  is  also 
a  Jewish  nommunity.  The  apse  of  the  Jacobite  church  of  SS.  Cosrnas 
and  Damian  is  perhaps  of  ancient  date. 

The  climate  of  Diarbekr  has  a  bad  reputation,  and  typhus  and 
other  fevers  are  rife  in  summer.  The  environs  abound  in  excellent 
melons  and  in  venomous  scorpions. 


50.  From  Diarbekr  to  Mosul. 

The  traveller  may  choose  between  floating  down  the  Tigris  on  a 
raft  and  several  different  land-routes.  The  river-route  is  preferable 
in  spring.,  not  only  on  account  of  the  variety  it  affords,  but  also  on 
account  of  its  scenic  interest.  An  escort  is  necessary  as  well  by 
water  as  by  land. 

a.  Voyage  on  the  Tigris. 

The  lesngth  of  the  course  of  the  Tigris  between  Diarbekr  and  Mosul 
amounts  t<  i  about  270  M.  The  means  of  transport  to-day  are  the  same  as 
in  remotes  t  antiquity,  as  is  evidenced  both  by  Assyrian  sculptures  and  by 
the  account  of  Xenophon,  and  consist  of  so-called  Keleks,  i.e.  rafts  con- 
structed of  the  bladders  of  sheep  or  goats,  with  2  or  3  layers  of  planks 
above  thenn.  In  the  time  of  high  water  (April  June)  the  journey  to  Mosul 
on  a  raft  o>f  this  kind  takes  about  4  days,  but  when  the  water  is  low  (Sept.- 
Jan.)  at  least  double  the  time  is  necessary.  For  one  or  two  travellers, 
with  two  or  three  'Kelektshis1  or  boatmen  and  the  escort,  a  kelek  of 
150-200  blatdders  suffices.  As  the  bladders  are  inflated  simply  by  the  force 
of  the  human  lungs,  it  will  take  about  two  days  to  construct  the  raft,  and 
about  as  llong  a  time  will  probably  be  consumed  by  repairs  on  the  way. 
The  tent  caf  the  traveller,  or  a  little  native  cabin,  is  set  up  in  the  centre 
of  the  rait  and  the  baggage  is  arranged  around  it,  leaving  scarcely 
any  room  for  moving  about.  At  high  water  the  charge  for  the  kelek 
from  Difirlbekr  to  Mosul  is  31.  Turkish,  to  Baghdad  (comp.  p.  404)  5-6/., 
while  at  low  water  the'e  amounts  are  at  least  doubled.  A  charge  is  also 
made  for   Itlie  cabin,   varying  from   2^.  to  bl.  Turkish  according  to  the  re- 


402 


Route  50. 


.1EZIRET  IBN  OMAR 


From  Diarbekr 


quirements  of  the  traveller,  but  about  one  fourth  or  one-fifth  of  this  may 
he  regained  by  sale  at  the  end  of  the  trip.  The  Kelektshis,  usually  Kurds 
or  Armenians  who  understand  a  little  Arabic,  generally  petition  for  a 
small  extra  gratuity  on  passing  difficult  spots,  and  an  occasional  gift  of 
tobacco  will  help  to  keep  them  in  good  humour.  At  ni^ht  the  kelek  is 
moored  to  the  bank  for  a  few  hours. 

The  starting-point  is  on  the  right  bank  of  the  river,  about  1  '/2  M. 
to  the  S.  of  Diarbekr  and  below  the  bridge  mentioned  at  p.  400. 
The  first  day's  journey  is  comparatively  uninteresting.  About  50  M. 
from  Diarbekr  the  valley  contracts  between  the  mountains  of  the 
Bohtan  on  the  N.  and  the  Tur  'Abdin  (p.  403)  to  the  S.  The 
abrupt  rocky  banks  are  honeycombed  with  cave-dwellings.  The 
voyage  down  the  rushing  stream,  the  cross-currents  of  which  some- 
times turn  the  raft  completely  round,  will  probably  give  the  traveller 
all  the  excitement  he  craves;  the  dexterity  of  the  steersman, 
however,  obviates  any  serious  danger.  On  a  narrow  plain  to  the 
right  (below  the  cliffs),  about  80  M.  below  Diarbekr,  lies  the  village 
of  Hasan  Keif;  opposite  this,  on  the  left  bank,  are  some  relics  of  a 
stone  bridge  upon  which  the  road  from  Van  to  Mesopotamia  via 
Bitlis  formerly  crossed  the  river.  The  cliffs  now  hem  in  the  river 
closely  on  both  sides.  On  the  left  we  are  joined  by  the  Bohtan  Su 
or  E.  Tigris,  the  Kentrites  of  antiquity,  which  sometimes  contains 
more  water  than  the  W.  branch.  The  combined  river  soon  turns 
towards  the  S.  In  401  B.C.,  after  the  battle  of  Cunaxa  (p.  412), 
the  10,000  Greeks  under  Xenophon  marched  to  the  N.  along  the 
left  bank  and  then  diverged  into  the  valley  of  the  Kentrites,  where 
they  found  a  ford  a  little  above  the  mouth  of  the  stream. 

The  scenery  continues  to  be  imposing.  On  the  left  bank  rise 
the  Mdi  Mountains  (ca.  13,000  ft.),  which  were  inhabited  by  the 
warlike  Carduchi.  Tradition  avers  that  it  was  here  that  the  Ark 
of  Noah  came  to  rest,  and  both  Muslims  and  Jews  still  offer  sacrifices 
at  a  decayed  sanctuary  on  the  top  of  the  mountains.  About  48  M. 
below  the  Bohtan  Su  lies  Jeziret  Ibn  rOmar,  the  ancient  Bezabde, 
where  Alexander  the  Great  crossed  the  Tigris  12  day6  before  the 
battle  of  Gaugamela  (p.  405);  at  a  later  date  it  was  one  of  the  most 
advanced  frontier-fortresses  of  the  Romans,  and  it  is  now  a  dirty 
little  town  with  a  dilapidated  citadel  built  of  blocks  of  black  basalt. 
Mustapha  Pasha,  a  Kurd  chief  who  has  his  seat  here,  exercises  a 
sway  almost  as  independent  as  that  of  Ibrahim  Pasha  (p.  400j. 
A  little  below  Jeziret  Ibn  rOmar  are  two  arches  of  a  Roman  bridge. 

The  Tigris  now  enters  the  flatter  part  of  Mesopotamia,  the  cradle 
of  the  Assyrian  Empire,  extending  to  the  S.  to  the  great  Zib 
(p.  405).  The  banks  become  lower  and  are  more  thickly  populated. 
On  the  left  is  the  mouth  of  the  Khabur  (not  to  be  confounded  with 
the  tributary  of  the  Euphrates  mentioned  on  pp.  392,  412).  Beyond 
Feishdbur  the  river  flows  for  a  short  time  wTith  a  rapid  current  through 
a  narrow  ravine.  Farther  on  the  voyage  is  monotonous.  To  the  right 
lies  Eski  Mosul,  with  a  'tell'  and  an  old  fortress.  —  Mosul,  seep. 404, 


to  Mfiwl. 


HARDIN. 


50.  Route. 


403 


b.  Land  Route  via  Mardin  and  Nesibin. 


This  is  a  trying  journey  of  10-12  days,   for  pari 
needs  to  be  strengthened. 


if  which   the  escort. 


Diarbekr  is  connected  with  (ca.  60  M.)  Mardin  by  a  rough  road, 
which  is  not  practicable  for  carriages  in  the  rainy  season.  The 
night  is  spent  at  Kh'meki  Taht  or  at  Khdneki  Fok. 

Mardin  (3050  ft.),  the  ancient  Marde,  lies  halfway  up  a  conical 
limestone  mountain  rising  abruptly  from  the  N.  margin  of  the 
Mesopotaruian  plain  and  belonging  to  the  Tur  'Abdin  (see  below),  of 
which  the  summit  (4265  ft.)  is  crowned  by  the  ruins  of  a  citadel  built 
upon  Koinan  foundations.  The  town  contains  25,000  inhab.,  well- 
built  houses,  and  several  mosques.  It  is  the  seat  of  a  Koinan  Catholic 
and  of  an  American  mission,  whose  hospitality  may  be  counted  upon. 

Fbom  Mard!n  to  JezJkeii  via  Midyat,  4-5  days.  The  fatiguing  and 
difficult  route  leads  through  the  mountainous  district  of  TAr  'Abdin. 
Midyat  (3500  ft.)  is  the  capital  of  a  district,  most  of  the  inhabitants  of 
which  have  professed  Christianity  since  the  4th  cent.,  containing  several 
mediaeval  churches  and  convents.  Among  these  may  he  mentioned  those 
of  Sdlah,  I1/4  hr.  to  the  N.  of  Midyat,  and  of  lldh,  about  7  hrs.  to  the 
N.E.,  both  quite  aside  from  the  travelling-route.    Jeziret  Jbn'Omar,  see  p.  402. 

As  the  journey  from  Mardin  to  Nesibin  takes  10-11  hrs.,  the 
traveller  is  recommended  to  make  the  small  de'tour  via  (S1^  hrs.) 
Dara,  where  he  will  obtain  accommodation  from  the  Sheikh,  and 
will  find  some  ancient  ruins  and  an  extensive  necropolis.  The 
Byzantine  frontier-fortress  of  Dara-Anastasiopolu  was  destroyed  in 
673  A.D.  by  the  Sassanide  King  Chosroes  I.  The  march  from 
Dara  to  Nesibin  also  takes  5J/2  nrs- 

Nesibin,  now  a  poverty-stricken  and  fever-ridden  village  on  the 
small  river  Joyhjagh,  is  the  ancient  Nisibu,  mentioned  in  Assyrian 
cuneiform  inscriptions  as  Nasibina.  Under  the  Seleucide  dynasty 
it  was  named  Antiocheia  Mygdonia,  and  was  the  seat  of  a  flourishing 
Greek  colony.  In  149  B.C.  it  was  ceded  to  the  Armenians  and  in 
68  B.C.  it  was  captured  by  the  Romans.  After  its  second  capture 
by  Lucius  Verus  in  165  A.D.  it  became  the  most  important  frontier- 
fortress  of  the  Roman  kingdom  and  of  Christendom  against  the 
Sassanides ,  who  vainly  besieged  it  on  three  different  occasions. 
Jovian  however  ceded  it  to  them  in  363  A.D.  The  ruins  are  ex- 
tensive but  insignificant.  The  course  of  the  old  wall  is  indicated  by 
masses  of  hewn  stone.  The  Syrian-Jacobite  church  of  Mar  Ya'ktib 
dates  from  the  4th  cent.,  and  was  rebuilt  in  the  time  of  Justinian. 

A  little-traversed  route  (escort  of  4-5  horsemen  necessary)  leads  from 
Nesibin  to  the  S.,  crossing  (7  hrs.)  the  deep  and  muddy  river  Er-liadd  to  the 
(0  hrs.)  N.  slope  of  the  Sinjar  Mts.,  and  then  crosses  this  range  to  (9  hrs.) 
Sinjar,  the  ancient  Singara,  situated  in  a  fertile  oasis  on  the  S.E.  slope 
of  the  mountains.  The  inhabitants  of  this  district  belong  to  the  semi- 
independent  tribe  of  the  Yezides,  a  sect  of  so-called  devil-worshippers 
which  arose  in  the  9th  cent,  and  mixes  in  its  religious  belief  many  relics 
of  ancient  paganism  with  Muslim  and  even  Christian  ideas.  From  Sinjar 
to  (ca.  20  hrs.)  Mosul  the  escort  may  be  dispensed  with.  There  are  in- 
numerable Hells'  not  only  to  the  N.  of  the  Sinjar  Mts.  but  also  along  the 
whole  of  the  route  to  Mosul  (comp.  p.  392). 


404   Route  50. 


MOSUL. 


From  NksibIn  to  Mosul.  The  shortest  route  traverses  -:he 
desert  to  the  S.K,  passing  numerous  'tells'  and  the  villages  of 
Tshilpardt  and  Hogna.  The  journey  takes  6  days  and  requires  a 
strong  escort.  —  A  longer  route  leads  via  Jeiiret  lbn  'Omar  (p.  402), 
which  is  reached  via  the  S.  slope  of  the  Tur  'Abdin  (p.  403)  in 
3  short  or  2  long  days'  marches.  Numerous  villages  are  passed  on 
the  way,  and  the  Tigris  is  crossed  just  short  of  our  destination. 
Beyond  Jezireh  the  route  follows  the  left  bank,  but  at  some  distance 
from  the  river,  passing  (6  hrs.)  Nahrav&n,  (6  hrs.)  Zakho,  (8  hrs.) 
Simeil,  and  (9  hrs.)  Filjil.  From  the  last  we  reach  Mosul  in  6  hrs. 
more. 

Mosul  (8'20  it.  ;  accommodation  at  the  khans;  Brit.  cons,  agent; 
Ger.  vice-consul),  the  capital  of  a  vilayet,  with  about  40,000  inhab. 
and  a  strong  garrison,  lies  on  the  right  bank  of  the  Tigris,  which  is 
here  crossed  by  a  long  bridge  resting  partly  on  arches  of  masonry 
and  partly  on  pontoons.  The  municipal  district  is  enclosed  by  a 
dilapidated  wall  of  clay  and  includes  many  pieces  of  waste  land. 
Many  of  the  houses  are  well  fitted -up  in  the  interior  and  have 
sculptured  portals  of  so-called  Mosul  marble  (a  kind  of  coloured 
stucco).  About  one-sixth  of  the  inhabitants  arc  Christians,  mostly 
Jacobites  and  Chaldeans  (p.  lxi);  the  town  possesses  a  few  churches. 
The  French  Roman  Catholic,  Mission  has  several  institutions.  The 
trade  of  the  town  was  important  in  the  middle  ages  but  has  now 
sadly  fallen  off.   Muslin  takes  its  name  from  this  town. 

Opposite  Mosul,  on  the  left  bank  of  the  Tigris,  lie  the  ruins  of 
Nineveh  (Assyrian  Mnua,  Greek  JYinoe),  the  latest  and  greatest  capital  of 
the  Assyrian  Empire,  which  was  the  residence  of  the  Assyrian  kings 
from  ca.  90O  B.C.  till  its  destruction  about  607  B.C.  (p.  394).  The  city 
wall,  which  still  stands  to  a  height  of  40-50  ft.,  has  a  circuit  of  about 
12  M.  Its  most  important  features  are  the  two  citadels  ou  the  side  next 
the  Tigris.  One  of  these,  the  Tell  Nebi  Yilnus,  seems  to  preserve  in  its 
name  a  reminiscence  of  the  prophet  Jonah  (Jonah  iii).  The  name  of  the 
other,  the  Tell  Kuyunjik,  has  been  made  widely  known  by  the  English  and 
French  excavations,  which  brought  to  light  the  remains  of  the  Palace 
of  Sennacherib  (p.  394)  and  his  successors,  and  were  resumed  by  the 
British  Jluseum  (1903-1905).  —  About  15  M.  to  the  >T.  are  the  ruins  of 
Khorsabad,  the  ancient  Dtir  S/iarrukin  (that  is,  Fortress  of  Sargon ;  Sargon  II., 
see  p.  394),  discovered  and  excavated  by  a  French  expedition  in  1843. 
About  10  M.  farther  to  the  N.E.  is  the  Kurd  village  of  Bavidn,  with  rock 
sculptures  and  inscriptions  of  Sennacherib.  —  About  20  M.  to  the  S.W. , 
near  the  Tigris,  are  the  ruins  of  Nimrud,  the  ancient  Calah  (Gen.  x.  li), 
founded  by  Sbalmaneserl.  about  1310  B.C.  and  afterwards  alternating  with 
Ashur  and  Kineveh  as  the  capital  of  the  Assyrian  Empire.  —  These  four 
places  may  be  easily  visited  on  horseback  from  Mosul  in  about  4  days. 


51.  From  Mosul  to  Baghdad. 

The  easiest  but  very  monotonous  way  of  making  the  journey  is  to 
descend  the  Tigris  by  kelek,  which  takes  ;i-4  days  at  high  water  and 
12  days  at  low  water.  Those  who  go  by  kelek  all  the  way  from  Diarbekr 
to  Baghdad  must  allow  at  least  one  or  two  days  for  repairs  en  route 
(comp.  p.  401).  —  The  Land  Route  via  Tekrit  takes  8-9  days,  that  via 
Erbil  and  Kerkuk,  11-12  days. 


erbil. 


51.  Route.   405 


The  Route  via  TekrIt,  ascending  along  the  right  hank  of  the 
Tigris,  is  considered  somewhat  unsafe,  especially  if  we  add  to  it 
the  detour  (1-2  days)  through  the  desert  and  past  El-Hadr  (the 
ancient  Hatra,  with  important  ruins),  on  the  little  river  Tharthdr. 
From  El-Hadr,  which  is  reached  from  Mosul  in  2  days,  we  return 
to  the  Tigris  by  a  march  of  11  hrs.,  reaching  it  at  Kal'at  Shergat 
with  the  extensive  rains  of  Athur ,  the  earliest  capital  of  the 
Assyrians,  where  excavations  were  begun  by  the  Germans  in  1903. 
Farther  on  we  cross  the  Jebtl  Hamrtn  to  (3  days)  Tekrit,  a  miserable 
place  of  4-5000  inhab.,  with  important  ruins.  A  long  day's  march 
on  the  left  bank  of  the  Tigris  brings  us  hence  to  Sdmarrd,  which  also 
possesses  important  ruins.  We  here  cross  the  river  by  a  bridge-of- 
boats  and  reach  Baghdad  by  following  the  right  bank  lor  3  days  more. 
The  Routis  via.  Eiuul  and  Kerkuk  is  the  usual  caravan-route, 
and  is  also  that  followed  by  the  telegraph-wires.  As  the  first  day's 
march  is  pretty  long,  an  early  start  is  necessary.  We  cross  the 
Tigris  bridge  and  traverse  the  ruins  of  Nineveh.  In  about  41/-;  l|rs- 
we  reach  the  village  of  Keremlls.  The  Koyun  Tepe,  a  mound  of 
ruins  l/4  M.  from  the  village,  commands  a  survey  of  the  plain  ex- 
tending on  the  N.  to  the  mountains;  this  was  the  battlefield  of 
Gaugumda  or  Arbela,  where  Alexander  the  Great,  on  Oct.  2nd, 
331  B.C.,  put  an  end  to  the  Persian  Empire  by  his  victory  over  Darius 
Codomannus.  We  find  our  nightquarters  4'/2  hrs.  farther  on,  in  a 
poor  khan  at  Ytni  Kelek,  which  lies  at  the  ferry  across  the  Zab  el- 
A'ld  (i.e.  the  upper  or  greater  Zab);  this  was  the  ancient  Lykos,  in 
the  waves  of  which  thousands  of  the  Persian  army  found  their  death 
in  fleeing  from  the  Macedonian  horsemen.  During  the  period  of 
high  water  the  river  is  about  1  M.  broad,  and  a  good  deal  of  time 
is  spent  on  crossing  it  the  following  morning.  Another  early  start 
is  therefore  necessary  in  order  to  reach  our  next  stopping-place, 
Erbil,  in  the  course  of  the  afternoon  (7  hrs.  I. 

Erbil  (1410  ft.),  the  ancient  Arba'U,  Greek  ArbeLn,  is  the  only 
great  Assyrian  settlement  which  has  been  continuously  inhabited 
and  has  retained  its  ancient  name  down  to  the  present  day.  Most 
of  the  present  village  still  lies  on  the  round  'tell'  which  bore  the 
ancient  citadel,  where  Darius  left  his  treasures  before  the  battle. 
Alexander  fixed  his  headquarters  here  after  his  victory. 

The  third  day's  march  (ca.  10  hrs.)  brings  us  to  Altyn  Kopru 
(920  ft.),  a  small  Kurdish  town  with  several  poor  khans,  situated 
on  an  island  in  the  Zab  es-SagKirox  el-Asfal  (i.e.  the  little  or  lower 
Zab),  which  is  here  crossed  by  a  lofty  arched  bridge  of  stone.  The 
name  of  the  town,  meaning  'Gold  Bridge',  refers  to  the  proceeds  of 
the  ferry-toll  exacted  here. 

The  march  from  Altyn  Kopru  to  Kerkuk  takes  9  hrs.     A  few 

miles  short  of  Kerkuk,  we  pass  a  brook  with  bluish-gseen  sulphur 

water  and  several  naphtha  springs,   the  product  of  which  affords  a 

usable  petroleum  after  a  primitive  process  of  purification.     The 

Baedeker's  Palestine  and  Syria.    4th  Edit.  26 


M«igqK^WWg^MM^BWB^Bt 


— — — — — — i 


I  ■  -£*?' 


406   Route  52. 


BAGHDAD. 


workmen  offer  to  ignite  the  gas  rising  from  the  ground  at  the  prin- 
cipal well,  and  the  imposing  spectacle  this  offers  is  well  worth  the 
small  gratuity  expected.  About  8/4  M.  to  the  left  of  the  route  is  a 
spot  named  Baba  Gurgur ,  where  numerous  flames  of  burning 
hydrogen  gas  issue  from  the  ground  with  a  loud  roaring  noise.  In 
antiquity  this  was  perhaps  the  site  of  a  temple  of  the  Iranian  eaith- 
goddess  Ana'uita.  —  Kerkuk  (1200  ft.;  tolerable  khan),  the  ancient 
Corcura,  now  the  capital  of  a  sanjak  of  the  same  name,  contains 
about  1f),000  inhab. ,  nearly  one-third  of  whom  are  Christian 
Chaldeans,  with  three  churches  and  convents.  Date-palms  now 
occur  in  large  groves,  but  their  fruit  is  not  very  palatable.  Oram.es, 
citrons,  and  lemons  abound. 

From  Kerkuk  we  descend  along  the  small  river  Kissa  to  7iza 
Khurmaty  (835  ft.)  and  (8-9  hrs. )  Tank.  The  next  nightquarters 
are  (7 hrs'. )  Tuz  Khurmaty;  (  7  i/2-S  hrs.)  Kifri  ( 755 ft.) ;  (6l/2-7  tow.) 
Karatepeh.  About  2'^  hrs.  beyond  the  last  we  cross  the  Narin 
7'shai  by  a  stone  bridge  (410  ft.),  and  then  traverse  the  Jehel  Hart<r1n 
(8f)0  ft.),  a  low  and  broad  range  of  hills  consisting  of  conglomerate. 
Farther  on  we  pass  extensive  salt-marshes,  and  in  6*/2"7  hrs.  from 
the  bridge  reach  the  village  of  Deli  'Abbas,  situated  upon  the  Nahr 
Khdlis,  a  broad  canal  which  runs  to  the  S.W.  from  the  copious 
Diyala  to  the  Tigris. 

We  then  cross  the  Nahr  Khali  a  by  a  bridge  and  proceed  to  the 
S.W.,  keeping  not  far  from  the  right  bank  of  the  Diyala.  The 
journey  to  Baghdad  ,  which  requires  22  hrs.  of  riding,  occupies 
2-3  days.  The  route  crosses  numerous  water-courses  and  passes 
many  small  villages.  The  usual  stopping-place  for  the  last  night 
is  El-Jedeideh,  a  village  of  about  300  clay  huts,  about  0  hrs.  from 
Baghdad.  —  As  an  alternative  route  we  may  proceed  due  8.  from 
the  bridge  over  the  Khalis  and,  if  the  water  is  low  enough,  cross 
the  Diyala  by  a  ford  (guide  necessary)  In  this  case  we  arrive 
in  10  hrs.  at  the  little  town  of  Ba'kubd,  lying  on  the  left  bank  of 
the  Diyala,  which  is  here  crossed  by  a  road  coming  from  Khanikhi 
on  the  Persian  frontier.  The  march  from  Ba'kuba  to  Baghdad  takes 
10-11  hrs.  A  little  less  than  hallway  is  the  large  khan  of /Jen? 
Sa'ad,  where  the  Persian  pilgrims  on  their  way  to  Kerbela  (p.  409) 
usually  pass  the  night. 


52.  Baghdad. 


Accommodation.  Hotel  de  I'Eorope,  beautifully  situated  on  the  Tigris, 
fitted  up  partly  in  the  European  style,  pens.  12-15  fr.,  servants  halt-price; 
special  arrangements  should  be  made  for  a  prolonged  stay.  —  Numerous 
Coffee  Houses. 

Consulates.  Great  Britain  (p.  408),  Major  L.  8.  A'etemarch  (consul- 
general);  United  States,  Rudolph  Burner  (vice-consul);  Austria  -  Hungary, 
G.Rouet;  Germany,  K.  Richarz;  France,  67.  Jlouet  (vice-consul);  Russia, 
Mathkoff  (consul-general). 

Banks.     Banque  Ottomaiie;   Raghdad  <<■  London  Banking  Association. 


BAGHDAD. 


52.  Route.   407 


Post  Offices.  Turkish  Post  Office  (ordinary  letters  sent  straight  across 
the  desert  to  Damascus  in  9  days,  to  Europe  in  about  3  weeks);  British 
PoH  Office,  in  the  British  General  Consulate  (letters  sent  to  Europe  via, 
Bombay  in  about  6  weeks).  —  Telegraph  Offices.  Turkish;  British  (via 
Bairu  and  Fao). 

English  Club,  admission  only  on  introduction  by  a  member.  —  Divine 
Service.  Uornan  Catholic,  in  the  Church  of  the  Latin  Carmelites  ;  Protestant, 
at  the  English  Mission. 

Baghdad  or  Bagdad  (165  ft.),  capital  of  the  vilayet  of  the  same 
name  and  seat  of  the  Commandant  of  the  VI.  Turkish  Army  Corps, 
lies  mainly  on  the  lei't  hank  of  the  Tigris,  which  is  here  ahout 
'275  yds.  broad  and  very  deep,  and  is  crossed  by  two  bridges-of-boats 
communicating  with  the  smaller  quarter  of  the  town  on  the  right 
bank.  The  population,  including  the  suburbs,  is  estimated  at  nearly 
200,000  souls.  This  number  embraces  150,000  Muslims,  divided 
between  the  sects  of  the  Shi'ites  (much  the  more  numerous)  and 
Sunnites  (p.  lxxi);  about  40,000  Jews  (comp.  p.  393),  settled  in 
the  N.E.  quarter  of  the  town;  and  upwards  of  6000  Christians, 
chiefly  so-called  Chaldeans  but  also  including  Jacobites,  Armenians, 
and  members  of  the  Greek  Church.  There  are  in  all  six  Christian 
churches.  The  number  of  resident  Europeans  is  about  50.  Baghdad 
is  an  emporium  for  Arabic  and  Persian  products  on  the  one  side  and 
for  European  manufactures  on  the  other.  The  chief  local  articles  of 
export  are  wool,  grain,  and  dates  (the  last  from  Sept.  onwards); 
large  quantities  of  horses  are  also  exported  to  India.  In  1903  the 
value  of  its  exports  was  723,2351.,  of  its  imports  1,924,045£. 

The  site  of  Baghdad  was  occupied  in  remote  antiquity  by  the  Ba- 
bylonian settlement  of  Baghdadtt;  part  of  its  quays  along  the  banks  of  the 
Tigris,  built  of  bricks  stamped  with  the  name  of  Nebuchadnezzar,  are 
still  visible.  The  present  city,  however,  was  founded  in  703  A.D.  by  the 
great  El-Munstir  (754  775  A.D.),  the  second  caliph  of  the  'Abbaside  dynasty. 
Its  most  flourishing  period  was  during  the  rule  of  his  successors  (El-Afahdi, 
775-785;  Ildrtin  er-RashSd,  783-309,  the  familiar  figure  of  'The  Arabian 
Nights';  Muhammed  el-Amin,  809-813 ■. 'Abdalldli  el-Ma'mun,  813-833),  who 
erected  numerous  magnificent  buildings,  fostered  the  sciences,  poetry, 
and  music,  and  summoned  to  their  courts  the  most  eminent  men  of  the 
Mohammedan  world.  The  later 'Abbaside  rulers  transferred  their  residence 
for  a  time  to  Samarra  (p.  405).  An  end  was  put  to  the  caliphate  in  1258 
by  the  capture  and  pillage  of  Baghdad  by  the  Mongols  under  llulagu 
(p.lxxxiv).  During  the  16th  and  17th  cent,  the  city  was  alternately  in  the 
possession  of  the  Turks  and  the  Persians,  but  it  was  permanently  annexed 
to  the  Turkish  empire  by  Sultan  Murad  IV.  in  1633.  Comp.  'Baghdad  dur- 
ing the  Abbasid  Caliphate',  by  Quy  Le  Strange  ('Royal  Asiatic  Society  Jour- 
nal', London,  1899). 

None  of  the  buildings  which  adorned  the  town  at  the  height  of 
its  prosperity  have  been  preserved.  From  the  13th  cent,  date  the 
Medreseh  el-Mustansiriyeh  situated  on  the  Tigris  below  the  bridge- 
of-boats,  now  practically  rebuilt  and  used  as  a  custom-house,  and 
the  minaret  of  Suk  el-Ghatl  in  the  S.E.  part  of  the  city,  of  which  it 
is  the  highest  building.  The  numerous  mosques  are  almost  all  of 
recent  erection;  most  of  them  are  surmounted  by  bright-coloured 
cupolas  arid  minarets.  They  are  practically  inaccessible  to  strangers. 
—  The  Citadel  in  the  N.  part  of  the  town  is  surrounded  by  a  high 

25* 


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!>-&■!■ .-:   1 1 1  1 1 1 1  ,-£**;■ I  I  I 


408   J»w«  5: 


BABYLON. 


wall ;  its  lofty  clock-tower  commands  an  excellent  viewT.  To  the  S. 
of  the  citadel,  also  on  the  Tigris,  is  the  Serai,  the  residence  of  the 
Turkish  governor,  and  a  little  farther  on  is  the  imposing  General 
Consulate  of  Great  Britain.  The  German  Consulate  also  lies  on  the 
Tigris.  —  The  Bazaars  are  very  extensive  and  well-stocked,  hut  of 
recent  erection.  The  houses  of  the  town  are  built  of  brick  and  con- 
sist of  basement  and  groundfloors  surmounted  by  terraced  roofs  ;  the 
outer  walls  are  entirely  blank,  the  windows  all  opening  on  the  inner 
court.  A  number  of  houses  of  a  more  European  typo  have  been 
erected  since  the  time  of  the  reforming  governor  Midhat  Pasha 
(1868-1872),  who  did  much  to  improve  the  conditions  of  traffic. 

In  the  suburb  of  Mtfazzam,  to  the  N.  of  the  town,  is  the  large 
mosque  of  El-ltanaflyeh,  an  almost  wholly  modern  building  with  a 
painted  dome  and  a  minaret.  This  contains  the  tomb  of  Abu  Hanifeh 
(d.  767),  the  founder  of  the  orthodox  sect  of  .Muslims  (p.  ix.xi)  to 
which  the  modern  Turks  belong.  A  bridge-of-boats  leads  from 
Muazzam  to  Kdzimein,  on  the  right  bank  of  the  Tigris.  Here  stands 
the  chief  mosque  of  the  Shi'ites,  restored  with  great  magnificence  in 
the  19th  cent.  ;  its  gilded  minarets  and  cupolas  are  conspicuous  far 
and  wide;  its  interior  is  inaccessible  to  unbelievers.  Ka/.imein  is  con- 
nected with  the  quarter  of  the  city  on  the  right  bank  by  a  tramway. 
—  In  front  of  the  W.  gate  of  the  town  on  the  right  bank  lie  the  at- 
tractive mosque  of  the  Sheikh  Ma'ruf  el-Karkhi  and  the  tomb  of 
Sitteh  Zobeideh,  the  wife  of  Harun  er-Rashid.  The  latter  consists 
of  a  tower-like  superstructure  upon  an  octagonal  basement,  but  has 
been  so  often  restored  that  probably  little  more  than  the  foundations 
of  the  original  structure  remain. 

The  ride  from  Baghdad  to  Ctesiphon  or  to  Seleticia  (p.  410)  takes  one 
day  (there  and  back).     Steamer,  see  p.  410. 

Excursion  to  Babylon  (there  and  back  3  days).  The  distance 
is  about  52  M.  and  is  accomplished  by  carriage  with  four  mules,  with 
three  relays,  in  8-10  hrs.  (fare  10  mejidis).  At  the  time  of  high 
water,  the  drive  through  the  flooded  region  of  the  Euphrates  is  far 
from  comfortable.  It  is  advisable  to  take  provisions  for  the  journey. 
At  Babylon  accommodation  will  be  found,  so  far  as  space  permits, 
in  the  building  of  the  German  Expedition  engaged  in  the  excavation 
of  the  ruins  (German  Oriental  Society  of  Berlin). 

The  ruins  of  Babylon  (Hebrew  Babel,  the  Babilu  of  the  cunei- 
form inscriptions),  as  they  now  lie  before  us,  date  almost  entirely 
from  the  period  of  the  New  Babylonian  Empire  (p.  395).  During 
a  period  of  three  centuries,  reaching  down  to  the  end  of  the  Persian 
Empire,  the  city  took  the  first  place  in  Asia  in  population,  wealth, 
and  magnificence  of  architecture,  perhaps  even  excelling  the 
Egyptian  Thebes,  which  had  then  passed  its  zenith.  Babylon  lay 
on  both  sides  of  the  Euphrates,  the  more  important  quarters  being 
on  the  E.  bank.  According  to  Herodotus,  it  had  a  circumference 
of  480  stadia,  i.e.  about  55  M.,  or  as  much  as  London  and  Paris  com- 


BABYLON. 


52.  Route.    409 


bined.  The  same  authority  states  that  the  city-wall  was  200  cubits 
(ca.  330  ft.)  in  height  and  50  cubits  in  width.  At  the  entry  of 
Alexander  the  Great,  the  circuit  of  the  occupied  part  of  the  city 
is  reported  as  90  stadia  (ca.  10  M.),  which  corresponds  with  the 
present  extent  of  the  ruins.  The  smaller  part  of  the  city  on  the 
right  bank  has  been  almost  entirely  carried  away  by  the  river,  the 
only  remains  here  being  some  fragments  of  the  city-wall.  Even 
on  the  left  bank  the  only  remains  are  those  of  structures  below  tbe 
level  of  the  ground,  as  the  city  was  already  a  heap  of  ruins  in  the 
first  cent,  of  the  present  era,  and  from  that  time  onward  was  used 
as  a  quarry  on  account  of  the  excellence  of  its  bricks  (comp.  below). 

Several  hills  or  mounds  are  distinguished  within  the  city-limits. 
In  the  middle,  to  the  E.  of  the  village  of  Kuarish,  is  the  Kasr,  the 
starting-point  of  the  German  excavations,  which  attains  a  height  of 
about  50ft.  above  the  Euphrates.  On  the  S.  slope  of  this  elevation 
stood  a  palace  of  Nebuchadnezzar,  the  lower  parts  of  tho  walls  in 
several  chambers  of  which  have  been  laid  bare.  The  chief  of  these  is 
the  great  Throne  Room,  measuring  170  ft.  in  length  and  60  ft.  in 
breadth.  On  the  N.  slope  of  the  mound  is  a  terrace  with  retaining 
walls  and  a  few  brick  pillars  belonging  to  another  palace  of  Nebu- 
chadnezzar. To  the  E.  of  the  two  ruined  palaces  the  excavations 
have  brought  to  light  the  so-called  Processional  Road  of  the  god 
Marduk,  which  was  adorned  with  reliefs  in  glazed  and  coloured  tiles 
(lion,  bull,  dragon);  also  the  triumphal  gateway  named  after  the 
goddess  Ishtar  and  the  Temple  of  E-makh.  In  the  heart  of  the  mound 
of  'Amrdn  Ibn'Ali,  to  the  S.  of  the  Kasr,  lies  the  chief  sanctuary 
of  the  Babylonians,  viz.  the  Temple  of  Esagila,  to  which  the  step- 
pyramid  of  Etemenanki,  known  as  the  Tower  of  Babel  (comp. 
below),  belonged.  The  site  of  this  tower  has  been  recognized  in 
Es-Sahen  (the  Bowl),  a  hole  of  about  330  ft.  square  on  the  N. 
front  of  Esagila.  The  lowest  layers  of  brick  were  not  removed  till 
ca.  1887.  To  the  E.  of  the  Kasr,  with  its  axis  running  N.  and  S., 
lies  the  mound  of  Homeird,  on  the  E.  side  of  which  a  long  line  of 
wall  is  recognizable.  About  l'^  M.  to  the  N.  of  the  Kasr  rises  the 
isolated  mound  of  Bdbil,  probably  the  site  of  a  third  palace  of 
Nebuchadnezzar,  with  tho  so-called  Hanging  Gardens  of  Semiramis. 
The  course  of  the  City  Wall  enclosing  this  mound  on  the  N.  and  E., 
running  for  1l/t  M.  to  the  S.E.  and  then  turning  at  a  right  angle,  may 
be  followed  to  the  neighbourhood  of  the  line  of  walls  (see  above). 

On  the  Euphrates,  about  5 M.  to  the  S.,  lies  the.  (own  of  Hilleh,  which 
is  built  entirely  of  brick  taken  from  the  ruins  of  Babylon.  —  A  ride  of 
2ty2-3  hrs.  from  Hilleh  toward  the  S.W.  brings  us  to  the  ruin  of  Birs  or 
Mrs  Nimrdd,  which  is  generally  identified  with  the  Tower  of  Babel;  it 
is,  in  fact,  the  step -pyramid  of  the  chief  temple  of  the  city  of  Barsip 
(Borsippa),  named  Ezida;  its  present  remains  date  from  the  time  of  Nebu- 
chadnezzar. This  tower  and  a  portion  of  the  adjoining  temple  have 
been  excavated  by  Sir  Henry  Rawlinson  and  others. 

About  25  M.  to  the  S.W.  of  Babylon,  beyond  the  Euphrates  and  the 
preat  canal  of  Ilindiyeh,  lies  Kerbela  (Brit,  vice-consul.),  containing  the 
Mosque  of  Hosein,  who  here  fell  in  680  A. D.  in  battle  with  the  enemies 


410   Route  52. 


NIPPUR. 


of  his  father  fAli  (p.  lxxii), murdered  in  661.  This  mosque,  which  is  one 
of  the  chief  shrines  of  the  ShFites,  is  entirely  inaccessible  to  unbe- 
lievers. —  From  Kerbela  a  road  leads  to  the  S.  to  (47  M.)  Nejef  or  Meshed 
'AH-,  where  the  shrine  of  'AH  (see  above),  equally  inaccessible  to  un- 
believers, is  the  chief  sanctuary  of  the  Shi'ites. 

A  journey  of  3  days  along  the  left  bank  of  the  Euphrates  brings  us 
from  Hilleh  via  Imam  Jdsim,  Diicdnipeh,  and  SUk  el-'Affetth  to  Niffer  or 
Nuffar,  with  the  ruins  of  the  Babylonian  city  of  Nippur.  Excavations 
were  carried  on  here  by  the  University  of  Philadelphia  in  1889-1900  under 
Dr.  John  P.  Peters,  Dr.  John  H.  Haynes,  and  Prof.  11.  V.  Hilprecht.  The 
objects  found  are  partly  in  the  Imperial  Museum  at  Constantinople  and 
partly  in  the  Museum  of  Fine  Arts  in  Philadelphia.  They  consist,  mainly 
of  inscriptions  on  clay,  principaUy  tablets,  of  which  about  40,000  are  re- 
ported to  have  been  dug  up  on  this  site.  The  inscriptions  found  here, 
with  those  at  Tell  L6  (see  below),  excavated  by  the  French,  are  the  old- 
est yet  discovered  in  Babylonia.  —  About  8  or  9  hrs.  farther  to  the  S.E. 
lies  Bismyah,  the  ancient  city  of  Udnun,  which  is  now  being  excavated  by 
the  University  of  Chicago.  A  large  number  of  extremely  ancient  Babylonian 
inscriptions  have  been  discovered  here.  —  Still  farther  tc  the  S.,  about 
70  M.  from  Nippur,  near  the  Euphrates,  are  the  sites  of  Warka,  the  ancient 
Erech  of  the  Bible  (Gen.  x.  10)  and  Uruk  of  the  Babylonian  inscriptions, 
and  of  Senkereh,  the  Elkts'ir  Of  the  Bible  (Gen.  xiv.  1)  and  Larsa  of  the  in- 
scriptions.    Both  of  these  have  been  partly  explored  by  Loftus. 

English  and  Turkish  steamers  carrying  both  goods  and  passengers 
ply  on  the  Tigris  between  Baghdad  and  Basra.  The  English 
steamers  perform  the  journey  in  4-5  days,  but  often  take  consider- 
ably longer  when  the  water  is  low  (first-  class  fare  1l.  10s.;  meals 
about  5  rupees  a  day).  The  Turkish  steamers  are  somewhat  cheaper, 
but  take  more  time  and  are  deficient  in  point  of  cleanliness. 

The  banks  are  generally  fl at  an d  the  view  on  the  E.  is  bounded  only 
by  the  mountains  of  Persia.  About  4  hrs.  after  leaving  Baghdad, 
beyond  the  mouth  of  the  Diyala,  the  imposing  ruin  of  Tdk-i-Kesrd 
(Arch  of  Chosrau)  comes  into  sight  on  the  left  bank.  This  is  the  only 
relic  of  Ctesiphon (p.  39o).  The  vaulted  hall,  120  ft.  high,  82 ft.  wide, 
and  164  ft.  long,  was  the  audience-room  of  the  'White  Palace'  of  the 
kings.  Some  insignificant  heaps  of  rubbish  on  the  right  bank  mark 
the  site  of  the  town  of  Seleucia,  which  was  founded  by  Seleucus  I. 
and  built  of  the  materials  of  Babylon.  This  city,  which  is  said  to 
have  contained  at  its  zenith  600,000  inhab.,  was  captured  by  the 
Paithians  in  140  B.C.  and  was  destroyed  by  Lucius  Verus  in  162  A.D. 
The  river  here  forms  a  loop  about  3  M.  long,  the  neck  of  which, 
may  be  crossed  on  foot  in  '/a  ^r-  The  captain  of  the  steamer  generally 
permits  passengers  to  visit  the  ruins  of  Tak-i-Kesra,  and  takes  them 
otv  board  again  at  the  other  end  of  the  loop. 

At  Kul  el-Amara  nearly  half  the  volume  of  the  water  flows  to 
the  right  through  the  Shatt  el-Hai  into  the  Euphrates. 

About  three  days'  journey  down  the  Shalt  el-Hai,  near  Ihe  modern 
town  of  Shatra,  is  the  ruin -mound  of  Tell  L6  or  Tello,  the  site  of  the 
primaeval  city  of  Shirpurla  or  Lagash,  an  almost  inexhaustible  source  of 
the  most  ancient  inscriptions.  French  excavations  have  been  conducted 
here  since  1877.  —  About  32  M.  farther  to  the  S.E.,  near  the  junction  of 
the  Shatt  el-Hai  with,  the  Euphrates,  lies  the  town  of  Nasrlyeh,  from  which 
we  may  visit  the  ruins  of  El-Mughayir,  the  ancient  Ur  (Gen.  xi.  28),  sit- 
uated about  6  M.  to  the  W.,  on  the  opposite  bank  of  the  Euphrates. 


DEILi  HAFIR. 


53.  Route.    411 


The  Tigris  now  contracts.  We  pass  the  villages  of  'Amara,  KaFat 
Sdleh,  and  El-'Ozeir,  the  last  containing  the  alleged  tomb  of  the 
Prophet  Ezra.  Farther  on  is  Kornah(Qurneh),  on  the  tongue  of  land 
at  the  confluence  of  the  Euphrates  and  Tigris.  The  united  stream, 
flanked  by  luxuriant  palm-groves,  is  known  as  Shatt  el- Arab. 

Basra  (Bossorah,  Balsora;  Brit,  consul ,  F.  C.  Crow;  U.  S.  con. 
a^ent,  H.  P.  Chalk;  physician,  Dr.  Scroggie),  the  'harbour  of  Meso- 
potamia and  capital  of  a  vilayet,  is  said  to  contain  upwards  of  50.000 
inhab.  and  lies  about  50  M.  above  the  mouth  of  the  Shatt  el-'Arab  in 
the  Persian  Gulf.  It  is  intersected  by  numerous  canals  which  are 
crossed,  where  bridges  are  lacking,  by  elegant  little  boats  (Arabic 
belem,  plur.  eblarn).  The  river  here  is  deep  enough  for  sea-going 
steamers.  The  wholesale  trade  is  almost  entirely  in  British  hands, 
and  the  British  Consulate  is  the  finest  building  in  the  town,  which 
also  contains  a  Russian  Consulate,  and  British  and  Turkish  post 
and  telegraph  offices.  The  English  Club  is  open  to  visitors  provided 
with  an  introduction.  Those  who  reach  Basra  by  sea  or  from  Persia 
have  to  undergo  a  10  days'  quarantine.  The  quarantine  station  is 
on  the  E.  bank  of  the  river. 

British  Mail  Stkamkhs  run  weekly  from  Basra  to  the  ports  of  the  Per- 
sian Gulf  and  to  Bombay  (14  clays).  —  Some  of  the  Fkkigut  SteambeS  ply- 
ing direct  to  Europe  ;ilso  carry  passengers,  including  steamers  of  the  'Asfar 
Line'  (Fr.  C.  Striek  &  Co.,  24  Leadenhal)  St.,  London,  E.C.),  which  run  once  a 
month  (fare  from  London  to  Basra  ca.35J.,  from  Marseilles  ca.31J.,  incl.  food) 
and  of  the  'Hamburg-American  Line'. 


53.   From  Aleppo  to  Baghdad  along  the  line  of  the 
Euphrates. 

22-55  days.  The  whole  route,  which  is  a  regular  caravan-route,  is 
practicable  for  carriages,  although  at  no  part  of  it  is  there  a  properly 
made  read  in  the  European  sense.  A  landau  may  be  hired  for  the  whole 
journey  for  500-650  fr.,  a  victoria  for  400-500  fr.  Travellers  with  heavy 
DaggagO  also  require  one  or  two  mules  with  a  Mukari,  the  price  for  which 
should  not  exceed  31.  Turkish.  An  ample  supply  of  provisions  should 
he  taken  in  the  carriage,  as  little  or  nothing  can  be  obtained  en  route. 
A  tent  is  indispensable.  —  The  route  is  protected  by  Turkish  military 
stations  (Kishlu).  but  an  escort  is  necessary.  —  In  the  time  of  high  water 
(April-June)  the  traveller  between  Meskeneh  and  Felliija  may  use  large 
flat- bottomed  boats  called  Kaiks  (Caiques).  These  take  8-12  days  (at  low 
water  20-25  days)  and  the  fare  is  about  7-12/.  Turkish  (comp.  p,  401). 

Aleppo,  see  p.  373.  —  The  distance  from  Aleppo  to  Meskeneh, 
where  we  reach  the  Euphrates,  is  about  56  M.,  equivalent  to  a  ride 
of  19  hrs.  The  night  is  spent  at  Deir  Ildfir,  about  halfway.  — 
Beyond  Meskeneh  the  route  descends  along  the  right  bank  of  the 
broad  Euphrates,  which  is  here  studded  with  numerous  islands. 

4  hrs.  Dibseh  occupies  the  site  of  the  ancient  trading-town  of 
Tliapsacus,  the  Tiphsah  of  the  Old  Testament  (1  Kings  iv.  24),  where 
Alexander  the  Great  crossed  the  Euphrates.  —  7^  hrs.  Abu  Hrtireh, 
a  Circassian  village.    About  1  hr.  farther  on  are  the  ruins  of  Si/fin, 


H 


412    Route  53. 


ED-DEIR. 


with  a  lofty  round  tower.  Siffin  was  the  site  of  the  decisive  bartle 
between  'Ali  and  Murawiya,  fought  in  July,  6:")7  A.D.,  and  lastng 
for  three  days  (p.  lxxxi).  —  A  little  beyond  (10  hrs.)  Abu  Gba  or 
JIammam,  the  small  town  of  Er-Rakka  is  seen  on  the  left  bank,  on 
the  site  of  Nikephorion  or  Kallinikos,  which  was  founded  by  Se- 
leucus  I.  —  8 hrs.  Es-Sabkha,  a  small  hamlet;  6^2  ^rs-  El-Hammdla, 
beyond  which  are  the  picturesque  ruins  of  Zenobia,  founded  by  ihe 
queen  of  that  name  (see  p.  340);  7  hrs.  Treif. 

In  8^2  hrs.  more  we  reach  Ed-Deir  or  Deir  ez-Z6r,  a  prosperous 
and  rising  little  town  on  the  right  bank  of  the  Euphrates,  with  7-8(00 
inhab.,  of  whom  700  are  Christians.  It  contains  a  postal  telegraph 
office  and  since  1867  has  been  the  capital  of  a  now  independent 
Liwa,  through  which  the  Reduins  of  the  Syrian  and  Mesopotainian 
steppes  are  to  some  extent  held  in  check.  The  trade  of  the  place  is 
considerable.    A  ^tone  bridge,  built  in  1897,  crosses  the  river  here. 

From  Ed-Deir  through  the  desert  to  Palmyra  (5  days),  see  p.  350. 

Our  route  continues  to  follow  the  right  hank  of  the  river,  the 
windings  of  which  are  avoided  by  direct  mountain-paths.  BeUw 
the  mouth  of  the  Khubur  (p.  392),  about  8  hrs.  from  Ed-Deir,  the 
route  regains  the  river-bank  and  follows  it  to  (1  hr.)  the  unimpor- 
tant village  of  Meyddtn.  On  an  abrupt  rocky  knoll,  3^2  M.  to  the 
\V.,  is  the  castle  of  Rdhaba,  resembling  that  of  Palmyra.  —  9^0  'i:s- 
the  picturesque  ruins  of  Sdlihiyeh  (ancient  name  unknown);  6'/2  nrs- 
Abu'l-Kemal,  a  small  modern  town  with  unusually  wide  streets; 
4'/o  hrs-  t'ie  niins  of  Jabnyeh  (ancient  name  unknown),  surrounded 
by  mud -brick  walls,  with  picturesque  towers  and  mounds;  V2  In-, 
the  Kishla  of  El-Gdim;  9  hrs.  Kishla  of  NaMyeh.  —  8  hrs.  'Anch, 
with  its  suburb  of  Jumeileh  straggling  over  3  M.  The  region  of 
palms  begins  here.  —  7  hrs.  Kishla  of  Kal'at  Iflueml.  ■ —  9  hrs. 
Hadttheh,  a  small  town  built  chiefly  on  an  island  in  the  Euphrates. 
Beyond  Haditheh  we  pass  the  island-towns  of  Jibba  and  El-Uz.  — 

8  hrs.  Wddi  Bayhdddi,  in  a  picturesque  and  lonely  situation.  —  8  hrs. 
Hit,  a  small  town,  mentioned  by  Herodotus  as  Is.  The  smoke  of  its 
bitumen-pits  is  visible  from  a  great  distance.  Hit  is  connected  by 
camel-post  with  Damascus  (see  p.  407).  —  Beyond  the  small  town 
of  (13  his.)  Ramddiyeh  the  mountains  on  the  W.  bank  recede  from 
the  river,  and  the  district  traversed  becomes  level.  After  a  march  of 

9  hrs.  we  cross  the  Euphrates  by  a  fraii  bridge-of-hoats  and  reach  — 

KaVat  Felluja,  on  the  left  bank.  Close  by  lies  the  battlefield  of 
Cunam,  on  which  Cyrus  the  Younger  was  slain  by  his  brother  King 
Artaxsrxes  lUnemon,  against  whom  he  had  rebelled  (401  B.C.). 

Our  route  now  quits  the  Euphrates  and  turns  towards  the  E., 
reaching  the  new  kban  of  Abu  Ghorub  in  5  hrs.  —  To  the  left  is  seen 
the  conspicuous  ruin  of  'Alter  Kuf,  which  formed  part  of  the  Baby- 
lonian town  of  Dur  Kurigalzu,  situated  ca.  4  hrs.  to  the  N.W.  of 
Baghdad.  Finally  we  pass  the  tomb  (right)  of  Sitteh  Zobeideh  (p.  408). 

9-10  hrs.  Baghdad,  see  p.  406. 


INDEX. 


Besides  the  names  of  places  the.  Index  contains  a  number  of  names 
(if  persons  and  words  mentioned  in  the  Handbook.  Tlie  ancient  names 
are  printed  in  Italics. 


Aaron's  Tomb  183. 
Abana  (Amana,   Barada) 

29G. 
cAbara  130. 
'Abbasides,  t   e  lxx.xi 
'Abd  el-Wahhab  lxxii 
'Ahdiin  145. 
fAbeih  287. 

Abel    Beth   Mancltxh  258. 
Abila  Li/samae(^iik  Wad 

Baradi)  293. 
Abil  el-Kamh  258. 
Abilene  293.  ' 
Abimelech,  Pillar  of  215 
Ablab  318. 
Abne'r,  Tomb  of  114. 
Abraham  lxvii. 
Abraham's  Oak  115. 
Abu  rAH,  the  (Kadisha) 

332. 

—  M-Aswad ,    Brook  270. 

—  <Auf,  Weli  214. 

—  Barakat,  Weli  379. 

—  Pis  126. 

—  Gha  412. 

—  Ghosh  (Karyc.t.  el- 
'Knab,  Kivjuth  Jearim) 
17. 

—  Hreireh  411. 

—  Isma'in,  Weli  215. 

—  T-Kemal  412. 

—  Rukeivik,  Kbirbct  169. 

—  Shusheh  (Lake 
Tiberias)  224. 

(near   Rami  eh)  13. 

15. 

—  Suweira,   Spring   of 
209. 

—  Zabdra  234. 
Almlfeda,  Sultan  36S. 
Abil„  349. 

Accho  ('Akka,  Acre)  229. 
Achor,  Valley  of  126. 
Achzib  (Ecdippa,  Zib)  265. 
Acre  (Acco,  'Akka)  229. 
Adana  362. 

rAdawiyeh,  Bro:,k  280. 
'Adlun  270. 
Adonis,  Cult  of  264.  336. 


Adonis    (Nahr    Ibrahim) 

336. 
-A.Ira  337. 

Adullam  .124. 

Adummim  126. 

'Ad  wan  158. 

Aelia  Capitolina  28. 

'Aenezeh  Beduins  lviii. 

Aere  (Es-Sanamein)   156. 

'Aereh  164. 

Afamiya  370. 

el-'Afineh  164. 

Afkii.  (Apheca)  336. 

■  A  frin  364. 

'Ageil  Beduins  337. 

Ager  Damascemis  317. 

Agriculture  liii. 

A^rippa  Ixxx. 

Ahaz  Ixxvii. 

At  98. 

Aiha  291. 

Aila,  (rAkaba)  209. 

—  (Central  Syria)  338. 
sl-'Ain  365. 

Ainab  287. 

rAin  Abu'l  Lisan  210. 
el-Akabeh  213. 

—  'Anub  284.  287. 

—  'Ar  2S2. 

—  el-r  Arils  174. 

—  cAtan  109. 

—  Babuk  270. 

—  el-Bahal  145. 
1 -Band eh  251. 

—  el-Baeha,  Khirbet  144. 

—  el-Beida  (Jordan)  L30. 
—  (North.  Syria)  363. 

-  —  (Wadi  Huseira)  175. 
Beit  Siirik  97. 

—  el-Belata  254. 

—  Kerdai  '319. 
el-Buweirideli   174. 
Uefna  215. 

—  Dilb  15.  17. 

—  ed-Dirweh  112. 
Dilk  (Docus)  129. 

—  Fakhiikh  319. 
Fara  98. 
Fanijeh  109. 


'Ain  Fer'un  130. 

—  Fijeh  294.  318. 

—  el-Frenj  354. 

—  Ghazal  231. 

—  el-Ghuweireh  175. 

—  el-Habis  95. 

—  cl-Haiyat  352. 

—  Ha.fl  eh  133. 

—  e'l-Hamra  254. 

—  el-Haniyeh  93. 
el-Haramiyeh    (near 

Heitiii)  213. 
(near  es-Salt)  137. 

—  Harsha  2y8. 
-  Ilawar  319. 

—  Hazir  136. 

—  Jadur  136. 
Jara  364.  378. 
Jedideh  114. 

—  el-.Tehavvir  133. 
.Tidi  (En'gedi)  170. 

—  .lurfa  261. 
el-Kantara  270. 

—  Kanya  (near  Baniyas) 
2iil. 

—  —  (near  Hasbeya)  289. 

—  —  (near  Mukhtara)  287. 

—  Karim  94.  17. 

—  el-Khadra  209. 
el-Khirwa'a  261. 
el-Kuf  116. 

—  Kuheireh  210. 

—  Lebweh  (Libo)  365. 
el-Mast  aba  138. 

—  Matur'287. 
Mellaha  253. 

—  Meshe'rfeli  '265. 
el-Hikwan  176. 
el-Mudawwara  252. 
el-Mukerfat  136. 

—  Murduk  166; 
Jliisa  (Hauran)  184. 
—  (Sinai)  186. 

—  en-Nawa'imeh  129. 

—  en-Neba'  330. 

—  Nejl  176. 

—  er-Rihan  261. 

—  es-Sahib  319.  ^ 

—  es-Sahwch  175. 


414 


INDEX. 


'Ain  es-Sakka  173. 

—  Salih  103. 

—  es-Siifu  175. 
— ■  es-Siuda  367. 

—  Se'adch  283. 

—  Shems  (Beth  Shemesh) 
14.  124. 

—  Sinya  213. 

—  es-Sitt  175. 

—  Sivali  228. 

—  Sofar  292. 

—  es-SQk  287. 

—  es-Sultan  128. 

—  es-Sur'eik  224. 

—  Suweilih  144. 

—  et-Tabigha  252. 

—  et-f  afileh  175. 

—  et-Tannur  116. 

—  et-Tin     (Lake    Tiber- 
ias) 252. 

(near  Tartus)  351. 

—  Umm  el-.Terein  160. 
Rabi'  138. 

—  Warka  335. 

—  el-Weibeh  175. 

—  el-Wurul  339. 

—  Yalo  (Ajalon)   14.  93. 

—  Yebrud  213. 

—  ez-Zeitun  257. 
'Aineita  327. 
'Aintab  374. 
'Aiyeh  256. 

Ajalon  (rAin  Yalo)  93. 
Ajbcihat,  Khirbet  144. 
'Ajeilat  Beduins  164. 
'Ajeltun  337. 
'Ajlan  (Eglon)  118. 
'Ajlun  15S. 
'Ajur  124. 
'Akaba  209. 
'Akabet  el-Jenina  2^9. 

—  el-.Terad  126. 

—  el-Ldzeh  289. 
Akakir,  the  387. 
'Aker  Kuf  412. 
'Akir  (Ekron)  13. 
'Akka  (Acre,  Aeeo)  229. 
'Akobar  349. 
cl-'Akud  236. 
'Akiir  14. 
'Akflra  330. 
cl-'Al,   Khirbet  (Elealeh) 

,146. 
'Aleih  284. 
Aleppo  (Ilaleb)  373. 
Alexandreion  129. 
Alexandretta  3'  1. 
Alexandria  4. 
Alexandria     Scabiosa 

(Alexandretta)  361. 
Alexandrozkene  (Iskande 

rtlneh)  266. 
'Ali,  Khalif  lxxxi. 


Alnia  (near  Beirut)  335. 

—  (near  Safed)  257. 
Alphabet,"  Arabic  xxxii. 
Altyn  Kopra  405. 
el-'Amaka  175. 
Amana  (Abana  ,  Barada) 

296. 
rAmara  411. 
Amatha  (Hama)  263. 

—  Springs  of  159.  237. 
Amida  (Diarbekr)  400. 
el-'Amk  3r3.  382. 

Amka  '265.  269. 
Amkeid  334. 
'Amman  (Kabbah  Amnion) 

142. 
Ammonites,  the  lxxv. 
Amos,  the  Prophet 

lxxviii. 
Amrii  168. 

Amrit  (Marathus)  352. 
'Amwas  (Emmaits,    Nico- 

polis)  16. 
Amykion  I'edion  363. 
Anabeta  22  i. 
Anada  377. 

Ananiah  (Beit  Hanma)95. 
'Anata,  (Anathoth)  97. 
Aneh  412. 
Annabeh  12. 
An?ari  370. 
el-Ansariyeh  270. 
Antakiyeh  (Antioch)  383. 
Antaradus  (Tartus ,  Tor- 

tosa)  353. 
Antelyas  282. 
Anti-Libanus,  the  xlviii. 
Antioch  (Antakiyeh)  382, 
Lake  of '388. 

,  Plain  of  363. 
Antiocheia  Mygdonia  (Ne- 

sibin)  403. 
Antiochus  Epiphancs 

lxxix. 
Antipalris  234. 
Antiquities  xcviii. 
Antoniniana  278. 
Aiitoninnpolis  400. 
'Antura  282.  335. 
'Anturin  330. 
'An'za  222. 
Apamea  370. 
Apheca  (Afkii)  336. 
Apollonia  234. 
Apostles'  Spring  126. 
'Araba  130.  175. 
Arabic  Language  xxxi. 

—  Literature,  lxxi. 

—  Vocabulary  xxxvii. 
Arabs,  the  lxxx. 
Aradus  352. 
'Ar'air  (Aroer)  119. 
'Arak  el-Emir  145. 


Arak  el-Menshiyit>h  118. 
Arameeans,  the  )x_x>. 
\ ran eh  239. 
Arba'il(ErbU,Arbela  J06. 

Arbela(Arba'il,ETbi\  405. 

—  (Gauyomela)  40i5. 
(Irbid)  252. 

Archelais   (Buseilivc  1 1 

129. 
Archelaus  lxxx. 
Architecture,    Aralii; 
xcvi. 

Hebrew  xciv. 
— ,  Christian  xcvi  . 
Ard  'Abdallah  1 18  . 

'Akl.ik  336. 

el-Beteniyeh  Ir'iT. 

el-Fedayein  16S.< 

—  el-Khait  253. 
Ard  at,  Weli  331. 
'Areiya  284. 
el-Arcmeh  145. 
Areopolis  (Rabba)    149. 
Arimathea  12. 
Arindela    (Guaranidel) 

176. 
el-'Arish  (Rhinncoluvi) 

121. 
Aristobulus   lxxix. 
'Arkfib  el-Mataba'   148. 
Ar  'Moab  (Babba)   149. 
'Ami  290. 
— ,  the  263. 
Arnon  (Mojib)  149. 
'Arniin  286. 
Aroer  ('Ar'air)  1 19  . 
'Arraboneh  239. 
Arsuf  234. 

Art,  History  of  cx;iii. 
Artas  110. 
Artuf  14. 
el-'Asaliyeh  167.^ 
Asalmanos  (Hauram)  154. 
Ascalon  ('Askalfm)    121. 
Asceticism,  Muslirm  lxxi. 
Ashdod  (EsdQd)  183. 
Asher,  Tribe  of  lx;xvi. 
Ashkenazim  (Jew») 

lxiii. 
el-Ashrafiyeh    (Wiiidi   el- 

'A.jem)  157. 
—  (Wadi  Barada)    318. 
Aahlarolh  158. 
Ashur  (Beit  Sahur)  107. 
— ,  Ruins  405. 
el-'Asi  (Oronles)  3(95. 368. 

383. 
'Askalan  (Ascalon)  121. 
'Asker  (Sychar)  220. 
Asochis   (Plain    of    Zebu- 
Ion)  239. 
Asphalt  Sea   (Deaid  Sea) 

132. 


INDEX. 


415 


Assassins,  t lie  lxxii. 
lxxxii. 

Astarte,  Worship  of  264. 

Atabyrion  (Tabor)  245. 

rAtan  109. 

rAtara  213. 

el-'Atara,  Khirbet  (Ala- 
roth  Adar)  212. 

Atavoth  Aclar  (Khirbet  el- 
'Atara)  212. 

—  Gad  ('At(arus)  149. 
'Ateibeh  317. 
'Alhlit  231. 

'Atni  338. 

'Attarfis  (Ataroth)  149. 

'A'udallah  215. 

Augusta    Felix   (Ben/tus) 

278. 
Auranitis  lxxix.  154. 
'Awerta  215. 
el-'Awwatin  269. 
'Ayun  Musa(Mt.Nebo)l  18, 
(near  Suez)  186. 

—  <[s-Sa'di  237. 
el-'Azairiyeh  (Bethany) 

125. 
'Azmut  220. 
Az'otos  '(Ashdod)  123. 

Ba'abda  292. 
Ba'abdat  283. 
Ba'aklin  287. 
Baal  Gad  (Hasbeya)  287. 

—  Meon  (Ma'in)  148. 

—  Shaman,  the  God  264. 
Ba'albek  (  Heliopolis)'$X). 
Ba'alti.s,  the  Goddess  264. 
Bab  396. 

el-Bab  191. 
Baba  'Amr  366. 
Baba  Gurgur  406. 
Bab  et-Tumm  159. 

—  el-Wad  16. 
Babbila  168. 
Babybon   (Babel,  Babilu) 

408. 
Babylonia  392. 
Badas  (Xahr  el-Milk)  355. 
Baghdad  406. 
Bahr  -"Akaba  209. 

—  Luf  132. 

Bahrat  Antakiyeh  388. 

—  el-  Aah'ari  158. 

—  el  'Ateibeh  317. 

—  el-Bajjeh  J57. 
Baidar  292. 
Baither  (Bittir)  14. 
Baitogyabva  (Beit  Jibrin) 

116. 
Bakafira  330.  336. 
Bakh'a,  .349. 
Bakhjeh  265. 
Bakhshish  xxvii. 


BaTulba  406. 
Bakiiza  373. 

Baianaia  (Baniyas)  354. 
Balata  215. 

Balb'iki  (Ba'albek)  320. 
Baldwin  Ixxxiii. 
el-Balu'a  (pool)  212. 
Bomlyke  (Membii)  3C6. 
Ban  ;S30. 

Baniyas  (Paneas,   Caesa- 
rea  Philippi)  259. 

—  (Baianaia)  354. 
Hankers  xi. 
Banque  Ottomane  xi. 
el-Bara  371. 
Barada.,  the  296. 
Barak,  Tomb  of  257. 
BaiMiniyeh  273. 
Bara'shit  257. 

Bar  Cochba  Ixxx. 

el-Barduni,  Brook  292. 

el-Blind  1S3. 

Barja  274. 

Barsip  409. 

Baruk,  the  287. 

Baihan  154. 

Basilicas  cxvi. 

Basim  378. 

Basra  411. 

el-Bassa  266. 

Batanaea  lxxix.  154. 

Baths  xxx. 

el-Batiha,  Plain  251. 

Batir'287. 

Batrun  (Botrys)  333. 

Bavian  404. 

Bayir,  District  357. 

Bazaars  xxviii. 

Bazeir  378. 

Bdiman  330. 

Beduins,  the  xxix.  lviii. 

Beevolh  212. 

Beenheba  169. 

Beggars  xxvi. 

Behamdun  292. 

Behio  373. 

Beibars,  Sultan  lxxxiv. 

el-Beida  183. 

Beilan  362. 

Beirut  (Berylus)  274. 

Beisan  (Beth  Shean)1V) 

Beit  'Atab  14.  124. 

—  Dei  an  11.  15.  18. 

—  ed-Din  287._ 
-  'Knnabeh  15. 

—  ITanina  (Ananiah)  95, 
Hanun  118. 
I  In    220. 
Iksa   IS. 
Iskahil  116. 
Jabr  el-Fokani  127. 

et-Tahtani  127. 

Jala  100." 


Beit  el-Jemal  14. 

—  Jenn  262. 

—  Jibrin  (Jfaresa,  Railo- 
gabra)  1 16. 

—  Kad  239. 

—  el-Kann  149. 

—  Lahm  101. 

—  Lay  a  288. 

—  Lid  221. 

—  el-Ma  (Daphne)  387. 

—  el-Makdis  29. 

—  Meri  283. 

—  Nakuba,  17. 

—  Net'tif  124. 

—  Nuba  16.  96. 

—  Has  160. 

—  Safafa  14.  99. 

—  Sahflr  en-Nasara,  107. 

—  ShVr,  Khirbet  112. 

—  Sur  112. 

—  Surtk  97. 

—  Ta'amir  111. 

—  Tulma  97. 

—  IJ^mmar  112. 

—  'Ur  el-F6ka  18. 
et-Tahta  18. 

—  Uzin  220! 

—  Zakaryii,  Khirbet,  112. 
Beita  215. 

Beilin  (Bethel)  213. 
Beitima  262. 
Bekfeiya  282. 
Bel'anieh,  Khirbet  223. 
Beldeh  (Paltus)  355. 
Beled  esh-Sheikh  235. 
Beleramun  377. 
Bel/orl   (Kal'at    esh-Sha- 

kif)  286'. 
el-Belka  137. 
Bellur'an  857. 
Belus  (Nahr  Na'mein) 

228. 
Belvoir,    Castle    (Kokah 

el-Hawa)  220. 
Bemekkin  284. 
Beni  Na'iin  Beduins  169. 

—  Sakhr  Beduins  lix. 
Benjamin,  Tribeof  Ixxvi. 
Berbara  334. 

Berdela  130. 

Beritftn  (Bevothai)  818. 

Berja  335. 

Berna  377_. 

Beroea  375. 

Bevothai  (Beritan)  318. 

Berriyet  er-Ramleh  15. 

el-Berweh  230. 

Ren/lus  (Beirut)  278. 

Ber/.ch  319. 

Beshindelaya  373. 

Beshir,  Emir  288. 

Bessima  318. 

Besus  284. 


esh 


416 


INDEX. 


Bethabara  130.  131. 
Bethany      (el-'Azariych) 

125. 
Bethar  14. 
Beth-arabah  14. 
TW/t  ^o«i  JI/eo»  148. 
Bethel  (Beitin)  213. 
Beth  Haccerem  111. 

—  Haggan  (Jenin)  223. 

—  Hngla  (Ha.jleh),  L33. 

—  Horons  ('Beit  TJr)    L8. 
Beth-jcsimolh  132. 
Bethlehem  101. 

Beth  Nimrah  (Tell  Nim- 

rin)  136. 
Rethphage  79. 
Hethstiida  (Khan  Minyeh) 

252. 

—  (Julias)  251. 

B«M  Shean  (Beisan)  235. 

—  Shemesh  (r.\in  Sliems) 
14.  124. 

—  Zachariah  112. 

—  Zur  (Beit  Zur)  112. 
Bethidiah  222. 

Bey  rout  (Beirut)  277. 
Bezabde  (Jeziret  Ibn 

'Omar)  402. 
Bezga  357. 
I!p/un  330.  336. 
Biddu  96. 
Bidyas  270. 
el-Bika'  292.  318. 
Bilad  Beshara  256. 
Bint  I'mm  .lebeil  250. 
Bir  Ahu  Yeiseh  240. 

—  'Adas  232. 

—  el-'Aineiziyeh  110. 

—  el-rAneiziyeh  13. 

—  el-Bedawiyeh231.239. 

—  ed-Derej  109. 

—  Eyyub  (Wadi  fAli)  16. 
(near  Jerusalem)  83. 

—  Hasasa  170. 

—  Huseini  274. 

—  el-.Tedid  350. 

—  Kadismu  99. 

—  el-Kenise.h  231. 

—  Lekiyeh  169. 

—  Maryam  238. 

—  el-Mokenneh  169. 

—  Nebala  97. 

—  cs-Safsaf  124. 

—  es-Sakati  169. 

—  es-Sebar,  Kliirbel  169. 

—  esh-Shems  135. 

—  esh-Shunnar  205. 

—  Snkp.irtvfih   170. 

—  es-Sweid  240. 

—  ez-Zeit  213. 
Bira  397. 
Birds  lvi. 

el-Bireh  (Becivlh)  212. 


Birejik  397. 

Birin  367. 

Birket  el-rArrub  112. 

—  Bint  es-Sultan     III 

—  el-Jamus  15. 

—  el-.lish  256. 

—  el-Kazzazin  114. 

—  el-Khalil  170. 

—  Meskana  247. 

—  JIusa  127. 

—  Ram  (Phiala)  261. 

—  es-Sultan  114. 

—  Taw  la  144. 

Bin,  Birs  Kimrtid  409 

Bismyab  (Udttun)  410. 

Bittir  14. 

Biyar  es-Seb'a  176. 

Biviid  es-Scid  266. 

Bkarkashch  336. 

Bkerki  282. 

Bkeiyifeh  288. 

Blanca     Guarda.    Castle 

(Tell  es-Sanyeh)   124. 
Bleideh  258. 
Blozeh  330. 
Bifida  n  320. 
Boaz,  Field  of  107. 
Bofertin  378. 
Bohtan.  Mts.  402. 

—  Su  (Kentrites)  402. 
el-Borj,  Khirbet  121. 
Bosor'ib2. 

Bosra  (Bo.itra)  161. 

—,' Little  (Buseira)  175. 

Bostrenus    (Nahr    el- 
rAuwali)  274.  286. 

Botanical  Notice  Hi. 

Botrys  (Batrun)  333. 

liozrah  (Buseira)  175. 

Breid  xix. 

Brikeh,  Khirbet  142. 144. 

Brindisi  3. 

Brisat  336. 

Brummana  283. 

Bruttus    (Nahr   el-Barid) 
351. 

Bsherreh  330. 

Bsheitiyeh  327. 

Bteddin  287. 

Buildings,  Arabian  xevi 

— ,  Christian  xevi. 

— ,  Frank  xuvii. 

— ,  Greek  xcv. 

— ,  Jewish  xciv. 

— ,  Phoenician  xciv. 

— ,  Roman  xcv. 

el-Bujak  357. 

el-Bnko'ir.->  134 

-,  Plain  of  14.  99.  142. 

Bulunyds  (Baniyas)  354. 

Burak  168. 

el-?urak  (Pools  of  Solo- 
mon) 108. 


Bureir  118. 

Burghu]  liii. 

el-Burj,    Ruin    (near   el- 

Lubban)  214. 

,  Khirbet  96. 
Burj  Beitin  98. 

—  el-Beyadeh  26(6. 

el-Bezzak  352. 

el-Far'a  220. 

el-Hawa  270. 

el-Khidr  270. 

—  el-MagiiSribeh   333. 

—  er-Rakseh  382. 
Ras  en-Nahr  S33. 

—  Safita  352. 

—  es-Seba,'  333. 
esh-Sheikhr.\nan333. 

—  et-Takkiyeh  333. 
Burka  (near  Deir  Diwi  "  I 

98! 
Burkush  291. 
Buseiliyeh  ( Arclialais) 

129. 
Buseira  (liozrah)   175. 
Busr  el-Hariri  152. 
el-Bustiin  205. 
Butm  el-Huleh  1  18. 
1-Buweib  194.  2019. 
Biiyiik  Karatshai   360. 
Bvblos   (Gebal,   Jicbeil) 

334. 
Bzummar  335. 

Oaesarea  (el-Kaisjariyeh) 

232. 

—  Philippi  (Baniyas)  259. 
Cafarloba    (Kafr     Tab) 

15. 
Cafes  xxix. 
Calah  (Nimriid)  4*01. 
Calamos   (Kalamiin)   333. 
Callirrhoe  '(Hamnuum  ez- 

Zerka)  148. 
Camels  184. 
Cana  246. 
Canaanites  lxxv. 
Capernaum  252. 
Capilolias  (Beit  R.as)  160. 
Caravanserais  xvii. 
Carchemish  397. 
Carmel,  Jit.  226. 
Casale  de  Gezin  286. 

—  Saint  Giles  214. 

—  Maklara  287. 

—  Somelaria  Tamjpli  265. 
Caslellum  Peretirimorum 

231. 
Castles,  Frank  xcvii. 
Caslrum  Harenkh   382. 

—  Merghatum  355  . 

St.  Catharine,  Momast.  of 

(Sinai)  19S. 
Caverns  cxiii. 


INDEX. 


417 


Cedar    Mount  (Jebel    el- 

Arz)  328. 
Cedars   of  Lebanon  328. 
Cemeteries  lxiv. 
Chalcis    (Kinnesrin)  377. 
Chalus  (Kuweik)  374. 
Chalybiori  (Helb'un)  31!). 
Chasid  im  (Jews)  lxiii. 
Cheritlv,  Brook  (Wadi  el 

Kelt)  126. 
ChesuUoth  (Iksal)  240. 
Chora/tin  (Kerazeh)  253. 
Cbogn  ies  II  Ixxx. 
Christ.,  Birth  of  lxxix. 
Christian  Sects  lx. 
Chronological  Table 

lxxx  vi. 
Cliryswrrhoas  (Wiidi    Je 

rash)  138. 

—  (Kara da)  296. 
Churc  h,  Armenian 

lxi. 
— ,  Chialdicun  lxi. 
— ,  Coptic  lxi. 
— ,  Creek  Catb.  lxi. 
— ,  Creek  Ortb.  lx. 
— ,  Lattin  (Bom. Catb.) 

lxi. 
— ,  Syrian  Catb.  lxi. 
— ,  Syrian  Jacobite 

lxi. 
Churc  lies,  Frank  xcvii. 
Cigars  xxix. 
Circuimcision  lxiii. 
Cisterns  xciii. 
Climaite  xlix. 
Cobe  (el  Kubab)  15. 
Coelesa/ria  (Bik;V)  lvi.  292 
Coffee;  xxix. 

—  Houses  xxix. 
Coins.,  Ancient  xcviii. 
Coloniia  Augusta    (Sidon) 

272.. 
Commiagene  393. 
Condtucted  Tours  xii. 
Conner  (Ras  Ba'albek)  3G5 
Conttumtia  119. 
Oonstcantina  3");!. 
Constantinople  4. 
Consulates  xxiv. 
Convemts  xvi. 
Corcurra  (Kerkuk)  106. 
Costu.mes  lxiii. 
Creditt,  Letters  of  xi. 
Crocoidile  river  (Nahr  ez 

Zer'ka)  232. 
Crococdilon  232. 
Cross.,    Monastery  of  the 

92. 
Crusaides  lxxxii. 
CunaxM  412. 
Custinin   House  xxiv. 
Custouns,  Muslim  lxiii. 


Dabbus  rllak  208. 
Daberath  (D'abfiriyeh) 

244. 
Dabiira  263. 
Daburiyeh  (Daberath) 

214.  ' 
Da'el  156. 

Dagon,  Cult  of  119. 
ed-Dabariyeb  169. 
Dalir  el-Kodib  328. 
—  esh-Stiu\veir  283. 
Dahrat  erltumman  138. 
ed-Dakaktn   157. 
Dakar,  Khirbet   124. 
Daliyet  el-Karmal  228. 
Damascus  294. 

Administration  300. 

el-'Akrabani  312. 

'Anifira   Suburb  313. 
As'ad    Pasha,    Kbiin 

307. 
Bab  el-fAmara  312. 

—  el-Berid  313. 

—  el-Faradis  312. 

—  Jeirun  315. 

—  Kisan  311. 

—  es-Salam  312. 

—  esh-Sberki  311. 

—  Tuma  312. 

—  ez-Ziyadeh  315. 
Bakers1  Shops  301. 
Barbers  301. 
Baths  295. 

Bauwabet  Allah  310. 
Bazaars: 

Ass  Market  303. 
Booksellers  305. 
Brokers  304. 
Camel  Market  303. 
Cloth  Bazaar  306. 
Coppersmiths  303. 
Cotton  Bazaar  308. 
Drapers  305. 
Goldsmiths  30G. 

Creeks  301. 

Horse  Market  303. 

Joiners  306.  312. 

Long  307. 

Saddle.  .Market  303. 

Shoemakers  306. 

Silk  306.  307. 

Spice  Market  308. 

Turners  308. 

Water  Pipes  305. 
Bein  es-Srtrein  312. 
Burial  Grounds,  Mus- 
lim 310. 
Cafes  294. 

Christian  Quarter  311, 
Churches  295. 
Citadel  304. 
City  Wall  310. 
Confectioners  301. 


Damascus : 
ed-Dabdah  312. 
Derb  el-M'ustakim  307. 
East  Gate  311.' 
Fruit  302. 

—  Market  303. 
Ghuta  296. 
Hadfra  311. 
e'l-Hainidiyeh  301. 
Ilammam  ed-Derwish- 
'  iveb  30S. 

—  el-Malikeb  308. 
Hotels  294. 

House  of  Ananias  311. 

—  of  As'ad  Pasha  306. 

—  of  Naaman  the  Sy- 
rian 312. 

Hukla  Quarter  310. 

Irrigation  295. 

Jews'  Quarter  299. 

Jobar  317. 

Kanawat  Suburb  3U8. 

ftasyiin.  Jebel  316. 

Khans  306. 

Khan   el-Cumrak   305. 

Lazarist  Monastery 

311. 
Leper  House  311. 
Mahallet  el-Farrain 

3i2. 
Makbaret  Bab    es- 

Saghir  310. 
Medreset  of   Melik  ez- 

Zahir  Beibars  315.' 

—  "el-rOmariyeh  315. 

—  es-Siniiniyeh  309. 

—  es-Someisatlyeb.315. 

—  Suk  el-Harir  300. 
Meidaii  Suburb  309. 
Merj,  the  317. 
Military  Hospital   316. 
Military  Serai  304. 
.Mosques: 

Jami'  ed-Derwisht- 
yeb  3J8. 

—  el-Idein  309. 

—  el-.Terah  310. 

—  el-Kharratin   308. 

—  Menjik  310. 

—  el-Murallak  312. 

—  er-Rifa'i  3i0. 

—  es-Sabtiniyeh  309. 

—  es-Sanjakdar  303. 

—  esh-Sbeibaniyeh 
309.  ^ 

—  Sidi  .Ionian  310. 

—  el-Umawi  313. 
Karat  et-Taniyeb  310. 

—  el-Ula  310. 
Mastabet   Sa'deddin 

3i'0. 
Mesjid    Sa'deddin 
310. 


ip-'  S  HIPP  HNH11  HI  HBH 


en 


418 


INDEX. 


Damascus: 

Mosquks : 

Omayyade  313. 

Shihabeddin  310. 

es-Sinaniyeh  308. 
Nureddin,    Mausoleum 

of  306. 
Pastry  Cooks  301. 
Paul,  Flight  of  311. 
Pilgrimage  to  Mecca 

310. 
Population  299. 
Post  Office  295. 
Quarters  299. 
Railway  Stations   294. 
Refreshments  3J2. 
Restaurants  301. 
es-Salehiyeh  3 16. 
Schools  295.  301. 
Straight  Street  307. 
Street  Cries  301-3  '3. 

—  Scenes  301. 
Suk  rAli  Pasha  303. 

—  el-Arwam  304. 

—  el-'Asruniyeh  305. 

—  el-'Attarin  30S. 

—  Bab  e'l-Berid  305. 

—  el-Hamidiyeh  304. 

—  el-Hainir  303. 

—  el-Harir  306. 

—  el-Jemal  303. 

—  el-Kharratin  308. 

—  el-Kheil  303. 

—  el-Kunieileh  301. 

—  el-Kutn  308. 

—  el-Midhatiyeh  307. 

—  en-Nahhasin  303. 

—  es-Sinaniyeh  309. 

—  es-Surfljiyeh  303. 

—  et-Tawi'leh  307.  308 
see  also  Bazaars. 

Suleiman  Pasha,  Khan 

307. 
Tailor  295. 
Tekkiyeh  317. 
Telegraph  295. 
Thomas,  Gate  of  St. 

312. 
Tomb  of  Abu  'Ubeida 

310. 

—  of  Arslan  312. 

—  of  Beibars  316. 

—  of  Bila.1  el-Habeshi 
311. 

—  of  Fatima  310. 

—  of  St."  George  311. 

—  of  Mu'awiya  310. 

—  of  Muhieddin  ibn 
el-'Arab'i  316. 

—  of  Nureddin  306. 

—  of  Saladin  315. 
Topography  299. 
Vegetables  302. 


Damascus : 

Water,   Drinking  295. 

Writers,  Public  301. 
Damur  (Tamyras)  274. 
Dan  (Tell  el-Kadi)  259. 
Dan,  Tribe  of  lxxvi. 
Dana   (near    Turmanin) 

331. 

■    (near     Ma'arret     en- 

No'man)  372. 
Daphne  (Beit  el-Ma)  3^7. 
Dara  Anastaiiupolis  403. 
Dara  403. 
Darciya  156. 
Darit  lz/.eh  331. 
ed-Dartim  (Deir  el-Belah) 

121. 
David,  King  lxxvii. 
David's  Well  100. 
Dawani  349. 
Dead  Sea  132. 
Debayeh  281. 
Debbet  el-Kerai  209. 

—  er-Raml'eh  208. 
Debeibet  Sheikh  Ahmed 

208. 
Debir  169. 

Deborah,  Tomb  of  257. 
Decapolis  Ixxix. 
Deifun  287. 
ed-Deir,  Ruin  (near 

Yarun)  256. 
— ,  Khirbet  364. 

—  (on  the  Euphrates)412 
Deir  Aban  14. 

—  el-rAbud  164. 

—  el-Ahmar  327. 

—  <Ali  '151. 

—  el-Arba'in  114. 
(Sin:ii)  205. 

—  el-rAshair  290. 

—  'Atiyeh  348. 

—  el-Belah  121. 

—  Besin  271.  285. 

—  Bkerki  335. 

—  el-Butum  124. 

—  Darin  372. 

—  Diwan  98. 

—  ed-Dubban  124. 

—  Eyyub  (Hauran)   158. 
(near  Atnwas)  16. 

—  el-Ferdis  367. 

—  Hafir  411. 

—  Hamallah  330. 

—  el-Halab  220. 

—  Jemiil  364. 

—  el-Kal'a  283. 

—  el-Kamar  287. 

—  Kanun  (ne«r  Tyre) 
269. 

(near  Damascus) 

294.  319. 

—  el-Karkafeh  284. 


Deir  el-Karm  149. 
el-Khadr  103. 

—  Mar  Jirjis  335. 

—  Marun  365. 

—  Tedrus  330. 
Yuhannfi  130. 

Mukurrin  318. 
el-Musallabeh  92. 
Nakhklms  116. 

—  Nil  eh  168. 

—  Reifun  337. 

—  Sambil  372. 

—  Seita  373. 
Senan  164. 

—  esh-Sharkiveh  167. 
esh-Sheikh  14. 

—  Sheraf  221. 

—  Shillikh  148. 
es-Sik  135. 

—  Yasin  94. 

—  ez-Zor  412. 

—  ez-Zubeir  lii.J. 
Deishfln  257. 
Dekir  168. 
Delata  257. 
Deli  'Abbas  403. 
ed-Demein  115. 
Deraf  a  113. 
Deraman  361. 
Der'at  (Edrei)  152. 
Derb-Far'un  187. 

—  el-Ghazawat  317. 

—  el-Hajj  157.   160.  209. 
Derdafa,  the  258. 
Derketo,  Worship  of  119. 

121. 
Der  tin  335. 
Dervishes  lxxii. 
Diadochi,  the  Ixxviii. 
Diarbekr  (Amida,   Kara 

Amid)  400. 
Diban  (Dibon)  148. 
Dibl  256. 

Dibon  (Diban)  148. 
Dibseh  411. 
Didi  156. 

Dimaski  (Damascus)  297. 
Dimis'hk  296. 
St.   Dimitri,  Mt.  279. 
Dimreh  118. 
Diocaesarea    (Sepphorit) 

239. 
Diospolis  (Lydda)  11. 
Divisions,  Political  lvii. 
Diwaniyeh  410. 
Diyala,  the  406. 
ed-Diytira,  Ruin  317. 
Docus  ('Ain  Dflk)  129. 
Dog  Rivcr(Nahr  cl-Kelb) 

281. 
Dogs  lv. 

Domestic  Animals  lv. 
Dophkah  189. 


INDEX. 


419 


Dor  (Tantura)  231. 
ed-Ddra  2>2. 
ed-Dosak  176. 
Ddthan  (Dotkan)  222. 
Dragomans  xvii. 
Dress  xxi. 
Drinks  xix. 
Druse  Mts.,  the  155. 
Druses,   the    Ixxiii.  288. 
Duma  (near  Damascus) 

337. 
Dammar  294.  317. 
Duris  318. 
Dur  Eurigalzu  412. 
DUr  $harrukin  (Khor, 

bad)  404 
Duatrei  23i. 
Duweineh  149. 

Ebal,  Mt.  220. 

Ecdippa(Achzib,  Zib)265. 

Edar,  Tower  of  10  i. 

Edetsa  (TJrfa)  397. 

Edomites,  the  lxxv. 

Edrei  (Der'at)  152. 

Eglon  (f Ailan)  118. 

Ehden  330. 

Eibek,  Sultm  ]xxxiv. 

Ekron  (fAkir)  13. 

El,  the  God  261. 

Blah  123.  . 

Elealeh  (Khirbet  el-'Al) 
110. 

Eleazar,  Tomb  of  215. 

Elevthei'opolis  110. 

Eleutfieros  (Nahr  el-Ke- 

bir)  351. 
St.  Eliat  280. 
Elijah,    Monasl.    of  317. 
Elisha,  Spring  of  128. 
— ,  Tomb  of  221. 
Elji  174. 
EUasar  410. 
Eloth  ('Akaba)  2  19. 
Emalli  Epiphania  (llama) 

S68. 
Emesa  (Honis)  360. 
el-Emgheivir'160. 
Emhardi  310. 
Emmaus  16.  96. 
—  Nicopolis  ('Am was)  16 
Kndur  (En  dor)  241. 
Enfeb  333. 
Engannim  (Ginea,  Jenin) 

223. 
Engedi  ('Ain  Jidf)  170. 
Enjfisa  175. 

Ephraim.  Tribe  of  lxxvi 
Ephrath  ll!0. 
Epiphania  368. 
Erbil  (Arba'il,  Arbela) 

405. 
Erech  (  Warka)  410. 


Erek  350. 

Erfeidi  381. 

Erbab  364. 

Eri'ba  140. 

Ertba  (Jericbo)  128. 

Krk'iyeh  378. 

Escort     of     Soldiers     o 

Beduins  xxvi. 
Esdi'aelon  (Jezreel,  Zer 

'in)  240. 
— ,  Plain  223. 
Etdrelom  (Zer'in)  240. 
Ksdud  (As/idod)  123. 
Ksfiyeb  228. 
Es/icol  110. 

Esbmun,  the  God  264. 
— ,  Temple  of  274. 
Eski  Mosul  402. 

—  Seruj  397. 

—  Sbam  (tiosra)  101. 
Etam  110. 
Etham  124. 

Euphrates,  River392.  397. 
Europos  397. 
Exploration    Fund,    Pal- 
estine xcviii. 

— ,  Tour  of  xxii. 
Evyubidcs,  the  Ixxxiv. 
Ezida  409. 
Ezra  Ixxviii. 
Ezra'  (Zoroa)   152. 
el-'Ezztyeh  266. 

Fakr.i  330. 

Famia  370. 

el-Fandakumiyeh  222. 

Fara  257.' 

Fasail  (PhasaHit)  129. 

Fast  Ixx. 

Falimites,  the  lxxxii. 

Falireh  371. 

Fauna  lv. 

el-Feifeb  173. 

el-Fe.ja  183. 

Fcisbabur  402. 

Fertility  liii. 

Field  of  Peas  100. 

Fikeb  305. 

Filfi]  401. 

Firan,  Oasis  of  192. 

F'ish  Ivii. 

Flint   Implements   xciii. 

Flora  lii. 

Fi'anche    Oarde ,     Castle 

273. 
Frank   Mountain    (Jebcl 

el-Fureidis)  110. 
Franks,  the  fix. 
Fruit-trees  liv. 
Fu'eileh,  Khirbet  210. 
el  Fuk'an,  Khirbet  137. 
el-Fuieh  235. 


Fum  el-Mlzab  328. 
Funerals  Ixiv. 

Gabala  (Jebeleb)  355. 
Gabaon,  see  Gibeon. 
Gabriel's  Spring  244. 
Gad,  Tomb  of  112. 
— ,  Tribe  of  lxxvi. 
Oadara  137. 

-  (Mukeis)  159. 

— ,  Springs  of  159.  237. 
el-Gaim  412. 
Galilee  lxxix.  248. 
Qamala  251. 
Oath  123. 

—  J/ep/ier  (el-Mesbhed) 
240. 

Gaugamela  (Arbela)  405. 

Oaulanitii  (Jolan)  lxxix. 
154.  263. 

Gaza    (Gazza.    (ihazzeh) 
119. 

Geba  (Jeba')  98. 

Gebal  (Byblos,  Jebeil)  331. 

Gebalene  (Jcbal)  175. 

Gedor  (Jedur)  112. 

Gehenna  (Valley  of  Hin- 
nom)  80. 

Gennesarel,  Lake  of  (Ti- 
berias) 249. 

Gennezar ,    Lake    of  (Ti- 
berias) 249. 

Genoa  3. 

Geographical    Notice 
xlvii. 

Geologv  li. 

St.George,  Chapel  of  358. 
Tomb  of  11. 

St.  George's  Bav  (Beirut) 
277. 

Gerar  (Lmm  Jerar)   121. 

Gerasa  (Jerash)  13S. 

Gergesa  (Kursi)  251. 

Gerizim,  Mt.  219. 

Geroda  (Jerud)  333. 

Gessius  Florus  Ixxx. 

Gethsemane  75. 

Qezer  (Tell  Jezer)  13. 

Gezin  (Jezzin)  286. 

el-Ghab  370. 

Uhabaghib  156. 

Gliadir  282. 

Qhaxva&tH(Armdela)n6. 

Ghararas,  the  167. 

Ghararat  el-Kibliyeh  108. 

—  esh-Sbemaliyeh  167. 

el-Gharb  284. 

Gnaw  160. 

Uhasm   161. 

Ghasean  161. 

Gbawarineh  Beduins 
lix. 

el  Ghazaleb,Khirbetl52. 


■JHJM    MM  MBWM  MMWMMMM 

■Olr'ir  ■■■■■■■  ■■■■■■■■■■■■■      ■■■■1 


420 


INDEX. 


el-Ghazar  3G7. 
Ghazir  335. 
el-Ghaziyeh  271. 
Ghazzeh  120. 
el-Ghor  (Jordan  Valley) 

130. 
Ghor  es-Safiyeh  173. 
(ihusta  335. 
(ihiita,  the  296. 
Gibeah  of  Benjamin  08.21'J. 

—  of  God  9-i. 

—  of  Si  I II I  98. 

Gibelin  (Beit  Jibrin)  11G. 
Gibeon  (el-Jib)  97. 
Giblet  (Jebeil)  334. 
Giblites,  the  334. 
Gilboa   Afts.    (Jebel    Fu- 

ku'a)  239. 
Giiead  13C 

Qilgal  (Tell  Jeliul)  130. 
Giloh  (Beit  Jala)  It  0. 
Gimzo  (Jim/.u)  18. 
(lindiiviis  (Jindareis)  363. 
Ginea  (Jonin)  223. _ 
Qiscala  (el-Jish)  256. 
•  UoriainExcelsis, Church 

107. 
Godfrey  de  Bouillon 

Ixxxiii. 
Golan  263. 

Gophna/i  (Jifnii)  213. 
Grasshoppers  Mi. 
GushHalab  (el-Jish)  2-56. 

Habeshi  399. 
Kahili  en-Nejjar  383. 
e'l-Habis  177." 
lladar  168. 

el-Hadeth  (near  Beirut) 
271.  279.  292. 

—  (near  Bsherreh)  336. 
el-Hadldeh  367. 
Haditheh  412. 
e'l-Hadr  (Hatra)  405. 

1.1  a  far'  348. 

e'l-Hafireh,  Spring  of  223. 

Haggai,  the  Prophet 

lxxviii. 
Hah  403. 
Haidara  231. 
Haifa,  (Si/cami/iiim)  225. 
Haina  260. 
Hajar  Berdawil  121. 

—  el-Hubla  352. 

—  Mfisa  205. 

—  er-Rekkab  187. 
l.Iajit  330. 

Hakim,  Khalif  Ixxxii. 

Hakl  209. 

I  libit  335. 

Halhul  112. 

llama  (Hamal/i)  3G7. 

el-Hamad  153. 


Haniameh  122. 

Hamath  (Haina)  36S. 

Hambalites,  the  lxxi. 

Hamdanides,  the  Ixxxii 

el-Hami  294. 

el-Hamniada  412. 

el- 1.1  a  m  ma  m.  Khirbet  3G? 

— ,  Oasis  363. 

— ,  Reservoir  236. 

Hammam  Eyyub  157. 

—  es-Siknani  152. 

—  ez-Zerka  lis 

cl -Hamuli'  159.  237. 
Hamilton  (Hamul)  266. 
Hamul  ( //amnion )  26li. 
Hanak  cl-Lakam  189. 
Hanefites,  the  lxxi. 
el-Han iianeb  232. 
Ilannavveh  25G. 
Haram  rAli  ibn  'Aleim 
'  235. 

—  Ramet  el-Khali]  112 
Karhanush  372. 
Harbata  365. 

Harb  Nefsi  367. 
el-llarbiyeh  387. 
Harestat  el-Basal  337. 
Haret  el-.leneidleh  2S7. 

—  Kejdelaya  331. 

—  Sahen  335. 
Harin'i.   Castle  3S2. 
e'l-Harithiyeh  238. 
Harmel  3G5. 
Ilaroshelh  238. 
Harra,  the  1  4. 
Harran  (Karrhae)  398. 
fiarran   el-fA\vamid   .117 
Harun,  Hill  of  195. 
Hariin   er-Rishid    Ixxxii 
el-Harwasi,  Khirbet  1G1 
Hasan  Keif  402. 
Hasbeiya  (Baal  Gad)  2S7 
Hashim,  Tomb  of  121. 
Hasrun  330.  336. 

l'lass,  Khirbet  372. 

Hasva  349. 

Ha'ra  (el-IIadr)  405. 

Ilauran.  the  154. 

Hauwar  158. 

Hawar  330. 

Hawar  378. 

Hawarin  349. 

Hazeroth  (fAin  el-Khadra) 

209. 
el-Hazmiyeh  279. 
Ha'zor  254. 
Hazreh  364. 
Head-dresses  xxi. 
lie. .itli  xxii. 
llebles  352. 
Ilebran  164. 
Hebrews,  the  lxxv. 
Hebron  (el-Khalil)  113 


I  lei  hi  n  374. 
e'l-Helaliveh  273. 
Helbun  "(Helb-on)  819. 
jleldi/a   (Khan    el-Khul- 

deh)  274. 
Heleli  Tepeh  400. 
.St.    Helena,     Cistern    of 

(Ranileh)  IS. 
Heliopolis  (Ba'albek)  320. 
I.lemeimat  149. 
Ilemesa  366. 
el-Henu  131. 
Heradeh  370. 
Hererit  el-Kcbir  192. 
jlermon,  Mt.    (Jebel  e.sh- 

Sheikh)  2891 
— ,  the  Little  I  Nebi  Hahi) 

240. 
llerod  Ixxix. 
— ,  Tomb  of  Ml. 
Herod  Antipa.s  lxxx. 
Bevodium  111. 
Keshan  (Hesltboit)  146. 
Hesi  el-Khattatin  192. 
e'l-Hesweh  L'92. 

Ilevalin  370. 

el-l'leiyat  167. 

Hezekiab  lxxwii. 

I.Iibbariyeh  291. 

i/ierapolis  396. 

Hieromyces  ( V  mrm  li  k )  23G. 

Ililleh  409. 

Hineh  262. 

Hinnom.  Valley  of  84. 

Hippos  (Snsiyeh)  251. 

Hiram's  Toml  i  256. 

el  -  II  is  h  369. 

l.lis'meh,  Plairu  of  210. 

History  lxxv. 

el-Hit  167. 

—  (/*,  on  the  Euphrates) 

412. 
Hittites,  the  1  xxv. 
Hobal  er-Riyfuh  114. 
Hod  el-rA/.iriy  eh,  Spring 
'  (En-Sltemesh)  126. 
Hofa  159. 
Hogna  404. 
Ilommas  161. 
Horns  ( Einesa  )  366. 
— ,  Lake  of  (ttadas)  366. 
llor,  Mt.  183.' 
Horeb,  Rock  of  205. 
Horims,  the  117. 
Horses  xx. 

Kosan  Abu  Zemneh    18S. 
Hosea,  the  Pnophet 

lxxviii. 
— ,  Tomb  of  1  37. 
Hosbet  es-Saf  327. 
Hosn  el-Akradl  367. 
Hospices  xvi. 
Hospitality  xwii. 


INDEX. 


421 


Hotels  xv  i. 

el-Hudeifeh,  Khirbet  175. 
Huiagu,  Sultan  lxxxiv. 
Huleh,  Lake  (Merom) 
'  253. 

Hunin  258. 
Husan  IIS. 
e'l-Huseiniyeh  319. 
el-Husn,  or 
Husn  ''Ajl'in  158. 
Huwara  '215. 
Huweitat  Beduins  209. 
Huzhuz  164. 

Ibelin  (Yebna)  123. 

Ibleam  (Bei'ameh)  223. 

Ibrahim  Pasha  lxxxv. 

Idlib  372. 

Iduniseans,  the  lxxviii. 

Jjon  287. 

Iksal  (Chesullolh)  240. 

Ikzim  228. 

Illness  xxi. 

Imam  rAH,  Weli  15. 

—  Jasiui  410. 
Imiims,  the  Ixxii. 
Imirisu  (Damascus)  29?. 
el-Imtuneh  168. 
Inkb.il  157. 
Inscriptions  xcviii. 
Insects  lvii. 

Intercourse  with  Orient- 
als xxvi. 

lopolis  3813. 
Irbid  159. 

—  (Arbelci)  252. 
Irinjeh  3!  19. 
Iron  (Yarun)  256. 
Is  (Hit)  412. 
Isaiah,  the  Prophet 

lxxviii. 
el-'Isawiveb.  97. 
IshboshetJh,  Tomb  of  114. 
Ishmaelities.  the  lxxxi. 
IskanderiLneh  (Alexan- 

droskenie)  266. 
Iskenderuin  (Alcxan- 

dretta,   Alexandria 

Scabiosa)  361. 
Islam,  El-  Ixv. 
Isma'ilianis,  the  Ixxii. 
Israelites   lrxv. 
Issachar,   Tribe  of  Ixxvi. 
fisicus  Sinus  361. 
Itabyrion  (Tabor)  245. 
Ituraea  1754  - 
Iyal  331. 


Jabboh  (Z.erka)  138. 
Jubncel  (Xabneh.  Jumniu) 

123. 
Jabneh  (Yebna)  123. 
Jabriyeh  412. 

Baki'f.kkk's  Palestine  and  Syria 


Jacobites,  the  lxi. 

Jacob's  Well  215. 

Jadur  Mukeis  159. 

Jafar  175. 

Jaffa  6. 

Jaghjagh,  River  403. 

Jaghli  Jlusa  399. 

Jalud  130.  235. 

Jamnia  (Jabneh)  123. 

Japhia  (Yafa)  238. 

lapho  (Joppa.  Jaffa)  7. 

Jason  lxxix. 

Ja'uneh  253. 

St.  Jean  d'Acre  230. 

Jeba'  (near  'Athlit)  231. 

—  (near  JIakhmas) 
(Oeba)  98. 

—  (near  Sebastiyeh)  222. 
Jeba'a  (near  Jezzin)  286. 
Jebab  152. 

el-Jebal,  District  (Qeba- 

lene)  175. 
JebaU  238. 
Jebbul  374. 
Jebeil  (  Gebal)  334. 
Jebe.l  el-fAbayeh  156. 

—  Abu  'Alaka   191. 

Eumeii  205. 

Shejer  206. 

Tor  84. 

—  el-Abyad  339. 

—  el-Ahma'r  361. 

—  fAkkar  351. 

—  el-Akraf  (Mons  Casius) 
357.    " 

—  el-Akrad  357. 

—  el-Arla  369. 

—  Amriyeh  144. 

—  el-cAraba  196. 

—  el-Arbarin   369.  370. 
372. 

—  el-Arz  328. 

—  el-Aswad  262.  296. 

—  Barbar  1^9. 

—  Barakat  379. 

—  Barghir  210. 

—  el-Baruk  292. 

—  Beidar  2(39. 

—  Berah  207. 

—  el-Bint  193. 

—  Bishr  187. 

—  Dana  176. 

—  e'd-Deir  206. 

—  Eslamiyeh  220. 

—  Ferir  207. 

—  Fukii'a  239. 

—  el-Fureidis  110. 

—  Grarmush  399. 

—  Gharabi  208. 

—  Gharandel  187. 

—  Gharib  196. 

—  Hainmam  Far'un  18S 

—  —  Sidna  MQsa   196. 
4th  Edit. 


Jebel  Hamrin  405.  406. 

—  Harun  183. 

—  Hauran  154. 

—  Heseini  347. 
J'ermak  255. 

—  .lobar  170. 

—  Kafkafa  158. 

—  el-Kahmun  134. 
Karan'tal  129. 
Kasyuii  296.  316. 

—  Katherin  205. 

—  Keneiseh  292. 

—  Khan  289. 

—  Khazrejiyeh  372. 

—  Khizamiyeh  206. 

—  el-Kibli  219. 

—  Libnan  (Lebanon) 
xlviii. 

—  Mahruk  210. 

—  Makma'l  328. 

—  el-Mani'  151.  168.  296. 

—  Mar  Elyas  226. 

—  el-Markha  189. 

—  Jlokatteb  191. 

—  el-Munaja  194.  206. 

—  el-Muntar  121. 

—  Musa  (Mons  Rhosiis) 
361. 

(Bit.  Sinai)  203. 

—  el-Mushakkah  266. 

—  Nakils  197. 

—  Neb'a  148. 

—  Nesrln  191. 

—  el-Nokhel  189. 

—  e,n-Nur  210. 

—  Oshaf  137. 

—  er-Baha  186. 

—  er-Kilia  370. 

—  er-Ruwak  339. 

—  es-Salib  201. 

—  esh-Sheikh   (Ilermon) 
239. 

—  esh-Shemali  220. 

—  Sijagha  148. 

—  es-Sikh  243. 

—  Sim'an  378. 

—  Sitt  Belkis  317. 

—  Sona  2J6. 

—  Sudur  187. 

—  et-Tahilneh  193. 

—  et-tarfiiveh  149. 

—  Tayyibeh  188. 

—  et-Telj  2S9. 

—  et-Tih  184. 

—  et-T6r  219. 
(Tabor)  245. 

—  Umm  Shomar  206. 

—  Usdum  173. 

—  Wuta  187. 

—  ez-Zawiyeh  370. 

—  ez-Zebedani  293. 

—  Zebir  205. 

—  Zebud  255. 

26 


422 


INDEX. 


Jcbcl  ez-Zcit  196. 

—  cz-Zumleh  152. 
Jebeleh  (Gabala)  355. 
Jebruda  (Yabrftd)  348. 

Jehus  24. 

el-Jedeidch    (near  Bagh- 
dad) 40(5. 

—  (near  Beirut)  280. 

—  (near  Btedilin)  287. 

—  (near  lias  Ba'albe.k) 
365. 

—  (Wadi  ct-Teim)  2^7. 
el-Jediheh  Shtdra  2lJ2. 
Jedur,    Khirbet    (Gcdor) 

112. 
Jeidur  263. 
Jefnides,  the  155. 
.lehoiakim  lxxviii. 
Jehoshaphat,  Valley    <■!' 

(Kidron)  80. 
Jehovah  lxxvi. 
Jeida  233. 
Je'itii  337. 

el-Jelameh  235.  233. 
Jelbon  239. 
el-Jelemeh  239. 
el-Jelil  235. 
Jemarrin  164. 
.lemhur  292. 
Jenan  es-Sur  140. 
Jenin  (Gihea)  223. 
Jerabis  397. 
Jerablus  397. 
Jerash  (Gerasa)  138 
Jcrba  222. 
Jeremiah  lxxviii. 
Jericho  127. 
— ,  Rose  of  170. 
Jerjura  286. 
Jeroboam  I.  lx.wii. 

—  II.  Ixxvii. 
Jerome,  Tomb  of  St.  106. 
Jerud  (Geroda)  338. 
Jerusalem  19. 

Abraham,    Monast.    of 

45. 
Abyssinian  Church  21 

—  Monastery  47. 
Aceldama  84. 
cAin  Silwan  83. 

—  Sitti  Jlaryam  82. 

—  TImm  ed-Derej  82. 
el-'Ajemiyeh  (Boys' 

School)  65. 
Akra  26. 

el-Aksa,  Mosque  58. 
Amygdalon(Patriarch's 

Tool)  34. 
Angel's  Stone  72. 
St.  Anne,  Church  of  48 
Antonia  26.  31. 
— ,  Castle  of  49. 
Apostles'  Cave  84. 


Jerusalem  : 
Apostles'  Church  70. 
Armenian   Quarter  34. 
Ascension,    Chapel    of 

the  77. 
Bab  Abdul  Hamid  34. 

—  el-'Amud  85. 
(Ilaram)  03. 

—  Hotta  (Haram)  03. 

—  el-Khalii  33. 

—  el-Hugh'§,ribeh(DuDg 
Gate)  66. 

(Haram)  52. 

—  en-Nebi  Dfiud  72. 

—  es  Silseleh  64. 

—  Sitti  Marvt.m   (Gate 
of  St.  Step"hen)  48 

Bankers  20. 
Barclay's  Gate  05. 
Baris  26.  31. 
Barracks,    Cavalry  61. 
Batn  el-Hawa  82. 
Bazaar,  Chief  47. 
Bethesda,    Pool  of  64. 
Bira  (Baris)  31. 
Bir  Eyyub  83. 
Birket  el-Asbat   73. 

—  Hiimmam  el-Batrak 
34. 

—  el-Hamra.  83. 

—  Isra'in  67. 

—  Mamilla  68. 

—  Sitti  Jlaryam  73. 

—  es-Suitan  69. 
Bridge,  Lower  80. 
— ,  Upper  73. 
el-Burak  Pool  61. 
Burial  Ground,  Ancient 

76. 
Calvary,  Mt.  (Golgotha) 

43. 
St.  Caralombos,    Mon 

astery  of  50. 
Casa    Nuova    of    the 

Franciscans  19. 
Cavern  of  the  Agony 

74. 
Cemeteries  70. 
Charities,  British  21. 
— ,  German  21. 
Chemists  20. 
Christ  Church  35. 
— ,  Prison  of  42. 
Christian  Communities 

and   Institutions  20. 

21. 

—  Street  33. 
Church,  Engiish  '35 
— ,  French  (St.  Anne) 

48. 
— ,  German  Prot.  46. 

—  of  the  Latin   Patri 
arch  20.  34. 


Jerusalem: 

Church,  Russian  (8. 
Cisterns  22. 
Citadel  33. 
CcenacuJiim  70. 
Conduits,  Ancient  25. 
Consulates    19).  68   OH. 
Convents,  Greek  34. 
— ,  Latin  34. 
Coptic  Khan  34. 
Cotton  Grotto   85. 
Cre'dit  Lyonn?  is  68. 
Creed,   Church   of  the 

78. 
Dar  Isbak  Beg  47. 
David,' Castle   of  38. 

—  Street  33.   Ill 
Deaconesses,     Institu- 
tions of  21.   68. 

Deir  er-Rum  el-Kebir 
34. 

—  es-Sultan  47. 

—  ez-Zeituni  135. 
Dome  of  the  Rock  52. 
Dormitio.Church  of  the 

71. 

Dragomans   19.. 

Dragon  Pool  T3. 

Dwelling  Houses  22. 

Ecce  Homo  Arch  49. 

English  Churc  h  35. 

Evil  Counsel,  Mount  of 
84. 

el-Ferdus  84. 

Field  of  Bloodl,  Build- 
ing of  the  84. 

Fire,  Valley  o  f  80. 

Furnace  Tower  31. 

Gate   of  the  Chain  61. 

— ,  Damascus   75.  85. 

— ,  Dung  31.  6i6. 

—  of  Epbraim  31. 
— ,  Fish  31. 

— ,  Gennat  31. 
— ,  Golden  62. 
— ,  Horse  31. 
— ,  Jaffa  33.  67. 
— ,  Moghrebiti;s'  66. 
— ,  New  34. 
— ,  Old  31. 

—  of  the  Prophet  65. 
— ,  Sheep  32. 

— ,  St.  Stephen's  48. 03. 
— ,  Todi  63. 
— ,  Valley  31. 
— ,  Water  31. 

—  of  Zion  72. 
Gates,  Ancient  31. 
Gehenna  80. 
German  Colony  of  the 

Temple  69.  " 
Gcthsemanc,  Garden  of 
75. 


INDEX. 


423 


Jerusalem  : 

Gethsemaue, Monastery 

of  (Greek)  45. 
Giho n,  Spring  of  25. 8'2. 
Golgiotha  35.  43. 
Goliaitb,   Tower  of  34. 
Government  24. 
Habs;  el-Mesih  72. 
Hamimam  el-Batrak  34. 

—  es  h-Shifa  64. 

—  Sitti  Maryam    73. 
Hana.neel,  Tower  of  32. 
Haeam  esh-Shekif  50. 

el-jVksa,   Mosque  58. 
Bab  el-Asbat  63. 

—  el-'Atem  63. 

—  ed-Dahiriyeh  62. 

—  Dau'd  54. 

—  el-Gharb  54. 

—  el-Ghawanimeh 
52. 

—  el-Habs  52. 

—  el-Hadid  52. 

—  Hitta  (Hotta)   63. 

—  el-Jenne'h  54. 

■   —   el-Kattanin  52. 

—  el-Kibieh  54. 

—  el-Mugharibeh  52. 

—  el-M atara  52. 

—  el-Mutawadda  52. 

—  en-Nazir  64. 

—  er-Rahmeh  62. 

—  es-Serai  52. 

—  es-Silseleb  54.  57. 

—  et-Tobeh  62. 
Bailatat  el-Jenneh  57. 
Bi:r  el-Arwah  56. 

—  el-Waraka  58. 
CUiain,   Door  of  the 

57. 
— ,  Gate  of  the  52. 
Cr-adle  of  Christ  61. 

—  of  David  62. 
David's  Place  of  Judg- 
ment 57. 

D<ewadar  Gate  63. 
Diome  of  the  Ascen- 
sion 57. 

—  of  St.  George  57. 

—  of  the  Prophet  57. 

—  of  the  Rock  52. 

—  of  the  Spirits  57. 
Footprint    of   Christ 

60. 
G.ate,  Double  61. 
— ,  Golden  62. 
— ,  Single  62. 
— ,  Triple  62. 
History  51. 
Hluldah  Portal  61. 
ell-Kas  58. 
K  ing's    Cistern  58. 
Kiubbet  el-Arwah  57. 


Jerusalem  : 

II ARAM   ESH-SHEK1F: 

'  Kubbet  el-Khidr  57. 

—  el-Mifr;1j  57.' 

—  en-Nebi  57. 

—  es-Sakhra  52. 

—  Shektf  es-Sakhra 
63.     "  . 

—  es-Silseleh  57. 
Leaf  Fountain  58. 
Mehkemet  Daud  57. 
Mosque  of 'Omar  60. 

—  of  the  40  Witnes- 
ses 60. 

— ,  White  60. 

Porch    of   Solomon 
51. 

Pulpit   of  Kadi  Bur- 
ban  ed-Din  58. 

—  of  Nureddin  60. 
Rock,Donieofthe52. 
— ,  the  Holy  56. 
es-Sakhra  52. 

Sea',  the  58. 
Sebil  Kait  Bei  58. 
Sherif'el-Anbia  63. 
Solomon's  Stables61. 

—  Throne  63. 
Substructions  61. 
Temple   of   Hadrian 

51. 

—  of  Herod  51. 
— •  of  Solomon  51. 
Tomb  of  the  Sons  of 

Aaron  60. 

Vaults  61. 

Walls  62.  63. 
Haret  el-Bizar  (David 
'  Street)  33. 

—  en-Nasara  33. 
Helena,  Cistern  of   St. 

48. 
Hezekiah's  Pool  34.  73. 
Hill   of  Evil    Counsel 

84. 

—  of  the  Field  of  Blood 
84. 

—  of  Offence  82. 
Hinnom,  Valley  of  81. 
Hippicus,  Tower  of  27. 
History    of  Jerusalem 

24. 
Hospice,  Armenian  49. 
— ,  Austrian  19.  49. 
— ,  German      Catholic 

19.  68. 
— ,  Jewish (Montefiore) 

69. 

—  of  Notre   Dame  de 
France  68. 

—  Prussian  (Knights  of 
St.  John)  19.  50. 

— ,  Russian  47.  68. 


Jerusalem  : 

Hospitals  21.  68.  69. 

Hotels  19. 

House  of  Caiaphas  72. 

—  of  Dives  50. 

—  of  Judgment  64. 

—  of  Lazarus  50. 

—  of  the  Poor  Man  50. 

—  of  the  Rich  Man  50. 

—  of  St.  Veronica  50. 
Jaffa  Suburb  68. 

St.  James,  Church  of  35. 
— ,  Grotto  of  81. 
Jebel  Abu  Tor  84. 

—  et-Tur  72. 
Jehoshaphat,  Valley  of 

80. 
Jeremiah,  Grotto  of  86. 
Jesus,  Grave  of  87. 
Jewish    Charitable 

Foundations  24. 

—  Quarter  35. 

—  Settlements  68. 
Jews  24. 

Job's  Well  83. 

St.  John,  Hospice  of  50. 

— ,  Monastery    (Muri- 

stan)  45. 
— ,  —  (Greek)  33. 
el-Kalra  33. 
Karem  es-Sayyad  76. 
Kasr  Jalfld  34. 
Katamon  69. 
Kidron,  Valley  of  the 

79. 
Kings'  Cistern  58. 
Kubbet  es-Sakhra  52. 
Kubur  el-Anbiya,  89. 

—  el-Kudat  89. 

—  es-Salatin   87. 
Last.  Supper,  Chamber 

of  the  70. 
Latin  Buildings  78. 
Latins    (Rom.     Cat.h. 

Church)  20. 
Lepers'  Hospital  69. 
Light,  Mt.  of  72. 
Literature  32.  50. 
Lord's  Prayer,  Church 

of  the  78. 
Mariamne,  Tower  of  27. 
Mar  Sim'an  69. 
St.  Mary   Magdalen, 

Church  of  75. 
St.  Mary's  Bath  73. 

—  Church  (Zion)   71. 

—  Tomb  73. 

—  Well  82. 

S'.nta.  Maria  Latin  a  45. 

Minor  45. 

Mea,  Tower  of  32. 
Mehkemeh  (House    of 
Judgment)  61. 

26* 


424 


INDEX. 


Jerusalem: 
Mesharif  7G. 
Millo,  Bastion  of  24. 
Moghrebin  Quarter  65. 

66. 
Monastery,  Abyss.  47. 
— ,  Armenian  35. 
— ,  Coptic  47. 

—  Dominican  87. 

— ,  Greek  (Great)  34. 

of  Gethsemane 

45. 
— ,  Latin  (Salvator)  20 
Mons   Offensionis  82. 

—  Oliveti  72. 

—  Scandali  82. 
Montefiore's    Jewish 

Colony  69. 
Moriah  Mount  31 
Mosque  of  Siuna  'Omar 

45. 

Mountain  of  Offence  82. 
Muristan  45. 
Nebi  Daiid  70. 
New  Town  33. 
Old  Town  30. 
Olives,  Mt.  of  72. 
Ophel  Quarter  31. 
Orphanage,  Syrian  6S. 
Paternoster  Church  78. 
Patriarch,  Bath  of  the 

33. 
Patriarchate,  G  reek  34 
— ,  Latin  34. 
St.  Paul's  Church  69 
St.  Pelagia,  Vault  of  78 
St.  Peter's   School   68. 
Phasael,  Tower  of  27 

33. 
Photographs  20. 
Physicians  20. 
Pilgrims'1    Hospice, 

Austrian  19.  49. 
Pool  of  Bethesda6?.49. 

—  of  Hezekiah  34.  73. 

—  of  Israel  67. 

—  of  the  Kings  83. 
— ,  Lower  83. 

—  of  Mamilla  68. 

—  of  the  Patriarch  34 
— ,  Serpents'  68. 

—  of  Siloah  83. 

—  of  the  Sultan  69. 
Population  22. 
Porta  Judiciaria  50. 
Post  Office  19.  68. 
ProtestantChapel(Ger' 

manl  46. 
Protestant  Church 
(English)  35. 

—  Community  21. 
Psephinus,    Tower   of 

27.  34. 


|Jerusalem : 

Public  Garden  68. 
Quarters,  Modern  33. 
Railway  Station  19.  89. 
Redeemer,    Church   of 

the  46. 
Religions  24. 
Rephaim  69. 
Robinson's    Arch  66. 
Rock,  Dome  of  the  31 
en-Rogel,  Well  83. 
Russian  Buildings  68 

76. 
es-Salahiyeh(Church  of 

'S't.  Anne)  48. 
St.  Salvator,  Monastery 

of  20. 
Schools  20.  63.  69. 
Scopus  70. 
Scourging,    Chapel   of 

the  49. 

Skpulohuk,  Church  ok 

the  Holy  35. 

Abraham,  Church  of 

36. 
Anastasis  36. 
Angels'  Chapel   4 
Apostles,    Church  of 

the  36. 
Arch  of  the  Emperor 

42. 
Arches  of  the  Virgin 

42. 
Basilica  of  Constan- 
tino 35. 
Bell  Tower  38. 
Calvary,  Mt.  43. 
Cathedral,  Greek  42. 
Catholicon  42. 
Cells  of  the  Francis- 
cans 41. 
Centre  of  the  World 

42. 
Chapel,     Abyssinian 
38. 

—  of  Adam  44. 

—  of  the  Apparition 
41. 

—  of  the  Copts  40. 

—  of   the   Crowning 
•with  Thorns  42. 

—  of   the  Derision 
42. 

—  of  the  Finding  of 
the  Cross  43. 

—  of  St.  Helena  43. 

—  of  St.  James  (Ar- 
n'.e»i:'.n)  38. 

(Greek)  38. 

—  of    St.    Longinus 
42. 

—  of  St.  Mary's  Agony 
44. 


Jerusalem : 
Skhjlorbb,  Ciiukok  of 
the  Holt : 
Chapel  of  th    40  Mar- 
tyrs 38. 

—  of   the    Egyptian 
Mary  38. 

—  of  Mary  Magda- 
len 38. 

—  of  St.  Michael  38. 

—  of  the  Nailinii  to 
the  Cross  41. 

—  of  the  Parting  of 
the  Raiment  42. 

—  of  the  Raising  of 
the  Cross  41. 

—  of  the  Syrians 
(Jacobites)  40. 

—  of  St.  Thecla  33. 
Column  of  l)erision 

43. 

—  of  the  Scourging 
41. 

Crusaders'    Church 

42. 
Derision,  Column  of 

43. 
Entrance   Court  36. 
Fire,  the  Holy  45. 
Golgotha  43. 
Patriarchs'  Seats  42. 
Prison  of  Christ  42. 
Quadrangle  3«B. 
Refectory    of    the 

Greeks  44. 
Rock,    Cleft    in    the 

44. 
Rotunda  39. 
Sacristy,  Latin  41. 
Scourging  Column  of 

the  41. 
Sepulchre,  Chapel  of 

the  40. 
— ,  Holy  40. 
— ,  Rotunda  of  the  39. 
Stone  of  Unction  39. 
Tombs  of  the  Kings 

44. 

—  of  Nicodemus  and 
Joseph  of  Ari- 
mathea  41. 

Serai,01d(State-prison) 

64. 
— ,  Present  (Residence 

of  the  Pasha)  64. 
Siloah  (Silwan)  82. 
Solomon's    Palace    51. 

—  Stables  61. 

—  Temple  51. 

—  Throne  63. 
Spring  of  theFullers  83. 
Stations   (Via  Dolo- 
rosa) 49. 


INDKX. 


425 


Jerusalem: 
Statistics  22. 
St.  Stephen,  Churches 

of  (ruins)  87. 
Street  of  Pain    (Via 

Dolorosa)  48.  49. 
Silk  el-Kattanin  64. 
Synagogues  35. 
Talitha  Cumi  68. 
Tantur   Fir'aun  80. 
Tank  el-Alam  50. 

—  Bab  es-Silseleh  64. 

Sitti  Maryam  49. 

Temple  Hill  25 
Tomb  of  Absalom  80. 

—  of  Baldwin  I.  44. 

—  of  David  70. 

—  of  Godfrey  de  Bouil- 
lon 44. 

—  of  Queen   Helena 
of  Adiabene  88. 

—  of  the  Prophetess 
Huldah  78. 

—  of  St.  James  81. 

—  of  Jehoshaphat  81. 

—  of  Joseph  of  Ari- 
mathea  41. 

—  of  the   rich   Kalba 
Sabua  88. 

—  of  Mary  73. 

—  of  Nicodemus  41. 

—  of  St.  Pelagia  78. 

—  of  Pharaoh's 

Daughter  82. 

—  of  St.  Veronica  50. 

—  of  the  Virgin  73. 

—  of  Zacharias  81. 
Tombs   of  the  Judges 

89. 

—  of  the  Kings  87. 

—  of  the  Frank  Kings 
44. 

—  of  the  Prophets  79. 
Tophet  80. 
Topography  30. 
Tourist  Offices  19. 
Tyropoeon  Valley  30.6i. 
Via  Dolorosa  49. 
Vineyard  of  the  Hunter 

76. 
Virgin,  Fountain  of  the 

82. 
Viri  GaliUei  76. 
el-Wad  64% 
Wadi  el-J6z  76. 

—  er-Rababi  80. 

—  Sitti  Maryam  79. 
Wailing   Place   of  the 

Jews  65. 
Walls,  Ancient  31. 
— ,  Present  65. 
Way  of  the  Cross  (Via 

Dolorosa)  48. 


Jerusalem : 

Weeping     of     Christ, 
Scene  of  the  75. 

Wilson's  Arch  64. 

Zacharias,  Pyramid  of 
81. 

ez-Zahweileh  83. 

Zedekiah,    Cavern    of 
88. 

Zion  31. 

— ,  Church  of  71. 

— ,  Convent  of  the  Sis- 
ters of  49. 

— ,  Monastery   of  Mt. 
72. 

—  Suburb  70. 

Zoheleth',  Stone  of  83. 
Jerusalem,  Kingdom   of 

ixxvi. 
Jeshanah  ('Ain  Sinya)  213. 
Jesus'  Spring  244. 
Jethro,  Grave  of  246. 
— ,  Valley  of  195. 
Jews,   modern   lix.  Ixii. 
Jeziret  lbn  'Omar 

(Bezabde)  402. 
Jezreel  (Zer'in)  239. 

,  Plain  of  223. 
Jezzin  286. 
el- Jib  (Gibeon)  97. 
Jibba  412. 

Jifna  (Oophnah)  213. 
Jilija  382. 
Jimzu  (Gimzo)  18. 
Jindareis  (  Gindarus)3&3. 
Jinjar  233. 

el-Jish  (Giscala)  256. 
Jisr  el-Abyad  367. 
el-Aswad  367. 
Benat  Ya'kub  263. 

—  el-Ghajar  258. 

—  el-Hadid  382. 

—  el-Hajar  336. 

—  el-Khan  236. 

—  el-Khardeli  286. 
el-Maktti'  236. 

—  el-Meisari  160. 
•  el-Mejdel  370. 

el-Mu'jami'  159.  220. 
236. 

—  Murad  363. 
er-Rummaneh  253.319. 

el-Jiya  274. 

Jizeh  161. 

Job,  Monastery  of  (in  the 

Hauran)  158. 
Job's  Bath  157. 

—  Stone  157. 

—  Tomb  167. 
Jobar  317. 
Johar,  the  355. 
Jogbehah  (Ajbeihat)   144. 
John  Hyrcanus  I.  lxxix. 


St.  John,  Grotto  of  195. 

,  Knights  of  lxxxiii. 

,   Monastery    of    ('Ain 

Karim)  94. 
— ,  Wilderness  of  95. 

—  (Sebastiyeh)  221. 
Jokneam  224. 

Jolan  ( Gaulanilis)  263. 

Jolis  123. 

Jonah,  Tomb  of  112. 

Joppa  (Jaffa)  7. 

el-J6ra  122. 

Jordan  (Yarden,  esh-  She- 

ri'a  el-Kebir)  130. 
—,  Ford  of  131. 
— ,  Little  259. 
— ,  Mouth  of  131. 
— ,  Source  of  260. 
Joseph,  Tribe  of  Ixxvi. 
Joseph's  Tomb  215. 
Josiah  lxxviii. 
Joz,  the  283. 
— ,  Khirbet  96. 
el-JubaA  175. 
Jubb  'Adin  349. 

—  Yusuf  223. 
Judaea  lxxix. 
Judah  (Yutta)  169. 
ludah,  Desert  of  169. 
— ,  Kingdom  of  Ixxvii. 

Tribe  of  lxxvi. 
el-Judeideh  (near  Damas- 
cus) 294. 

—  (near  Acre)  265. 
Judges,  Tombs  of  the  89. 
Judi  Mts.  402. 

Judin  (Kal'at  Jiddin) 

269.     ' 
JuliaAugittta  Felix  Berytut 

278. 
Julias  (Rethsaida)  251. 
Jumeileh  412. 
Jun.  'Akkar  351. 
.lunch  (near  Beirut)  282. 

335. 
el-Juneineh  126. 
Juniyeh,  Plain  of  351. 
Jurf  ed-Darawish  153. 
Jusiyeh  366. 
Juttah  (Yutta)  169. 

el-Ka'a  365. 
— ,  Desert  of  197. 
Kabelan  214. 
el-Kabireh  265. 
Kabr  'Abdallah  148. 

—  el-'Azar  125. 

—  Hairan  256. 

—  l'larun  183. 

—  es-Sitt  168. 

—  es-Sultan  144. 
el-Kabu  i25. 
el-Kabusi  358. 


i^^^l^?^  BHSHEE  SSawSHSSS 


426 


INDEX. 


Kadas,  Lake  of  3G6. 
e'l-Kadem  157. 
Kades  257. 
kadesh  366. 

Kadisha,  the  331.  332. 
Kadita  256. 
kadi/lis  (Ga/.a)  119. 
Kafar  NakMm  252. 

—  Tankhilm  252. 
el-Kafr  164. 
Kafr  'Abita  334. 

—  Altun  364. 

—  Abu  Bedd  148. 

—  'Ana.  (Ono)  11. 

—  el-'Awamid  319. 

—  Bir'iin  255. 

—  Hamra  377. 

—  Hatta  331. 

—  Hawar  262. 

—  Kallin  215. 

—  Kama  246. 

—  Kenna  246. 

—  Kileh  373. 

—  Kiik  290. 

—  Lam  231. 

—  Lata  372. 

—  Naffakh  263. 

—  Sab  330. 

—  Saba  232. 

—  Sabt^  246. 

—  es-Samir  231. 

—  Shima  284. 

—  Sieil  364. 

—  Siisa  262. 

—  Tab  (Ca/arloba)  15 

—  et-Tur  76. 

—  Yasif  265. 

—  ez-Zeit  318. 
Kahtanides,  the  lxxxi. 
el-Kahweh  266. 
Kainarjik  357. 
Kaisaria  Sebaste  232. 
el-Kaisariyeh  (Caesarea) 

232. 
Kakun  232. 

el-Kakun,  Khirbet  127. 
el-Kalra  220. 

Kalabat   el-Mezzeh   262. 
'  294. 

Kal'ajiych  377. 
Kalamun  (Calamos)  333. 
Kalandiyeh  212. 
Kalansaweh  232. 
Kal'at  el  'Akaba  209. 

—  Allah  152. 

—  'Aneizeh  153. 

—  el-'Atika  157. 

—  Ba?hras  388. 

—  el-Bahr  272. 

—  el-Bufak  108. 

—  ed-Dab'a  153. 

—  Feliuja  412. 

—  el-Hasa  153. 


Kal'at  el-Hosn  (near 
Horns)  367. 

el-Husn  (on  Lake 
Tiberias)  251. 

Ibn  Sla'an  251. 

Ifhiemi  412. 

—  el-Jedideh  157. 
Jendel  29J. 
Jidar  371. 

—  Jiddin  269. 
Karn  269. 

—  el-Mefrak  153. 

—  el-JIudik'  370. 

—  el-Mu'Wzeh  272. 

—  en-Nofman  369. 

en-Nuhas  151. 

er-Bubud  236. 

—  Saleh  411. 

—  es-Samra,  153. 

—  Seijar  370. 

—  esh-Shakif  286. 

Shem'a  266. 

Shergat  405. 

SinVan  378. 

es-Suheibeh  260. 

—  et-Tur  196. 

—  Yafimur  352. 

—  ez-Zerka  153. 

—  Ziza  153. 
Kalb  Luzeb  373. 
Kallinikoa  412. 
Kaloniyeh  17. 
Kaniu'at    el-Harmel   365 
Kama  256. 
Kanat  Fir'aun  160. 
Kanalha  (el  -  Kanawat) 

165. 

Kauatir  37' I. 

cl-Kanawat  (Kenath,  Ka- 
nalha) 165. 

Kandiljik  357. 

Kannobin  330. 

Karaineh  357. 

Karaja  Dagh  399.  400. 

Karamurt  388. 

Karantal,    .Tebel    (Qua 
ranlana)  129. 

Karasii,  Brook  363.  38S. 

Karatepeh  406. 

Karawa  129. 

karem  ('Ain  Karim)  94. 

Karn  Ilatlin  246. 

—  Sartab'eh  129. 
Karnun  (Karne)  354. 
Karrhae  (Harran)  398. 
el-Karya  17. 
Karyatein  (Nezala)  338. 
Karyet     el-'Fnab     (Abu 
'  Ghosh)  17. 
Kashkala,  Spring  of  114 
el-Kasr  153. 
Kasr  el-'Abd  146. 


Kasr  el-'Adba  347. 

—  fAntar  290. 

—  el-'Areijeh  170. 

—  el-Benat  382. 
Berdawil    (near    'Ain 

el-Haramiyeh)  213. 
—  (near  Yabrud)  348. 
Fir'aun  156. 
Ilajleh  133. 
el-Heir  339. 
el-Melfuf  145. 
Rabba  149. 

—  el-Yehfid  130. 

Kassuba  335. 

Kastal  (in  Judffa)  17. 

Kasyun  253. 

Katamon  69. 

el-Katana  (near   Damas- 
cus') 262. 
,Ruin(WadiFirrini):6J. 

Kathisma  99. 

Katma  364. 

Katraneh  153. 

el-Kattineh  366. 

Ka'un"22D. 

Keba'a  253. 

Kebfila  17.  ' 

kedesh  (Kades)  25  F. 

Keffiyeh  xxi.  lxiii. 

Kefraya  366. 

Kefrbum  367. 

Kefretiin  370. 

Keisin  221. 

Kenan  Eskeir  169. 

Kenath  (Kanatha,  el-Ka- 

nawat)  165. 
lveneiseh  283. 
Kentrites  (Bohtin  Su)  402. 
el-Kerak  (Kir  Moab)  149. 
— ,  Hill  of  159. 
Kerak  Nuh  318. 
Kerazeh  (Chorazin)   253. 
Kerbela  409. 
Keremlis  405. 
Kerioth  (Kureiyat)  149. 
Kerkuk  (Corcura)  406. 
Kesab  357. 
Kcshaya  330. 
Kessoue'  (el-Kifweh)  156. 
Kestel  el-Ma'af  357. 
Khabeb  152. 
Khabur,  the  4(  >2. 
el-Khadr  108. 
el-Khalil  (Hebron)  113. 
Khalkhaleh  168. 
Khalwet  el-Biy&d  288. 
Khamat  Epiphania  36S. 
el  Khan,    Khirbot    (near 

Beit  Nettif)  125. 
— ,  —  (near  Jiisr  el-Gha- 

jar)  254. 
Khan  Abu  Ghrorab  412. 
—  el-Abyad  338. 


INDEX. 


427 


Kuaa  #1-Ahmar  236. 

—  'Aiy  ash  367. 

—  e.-r.Asafir  338. 

—  lemi'Sa'ad  406. 

—  el-PJurak  270. 

—  lu«r  335. 

—  1  ertnun  156. 

—  1'iarbekerli  363. 

—  Hatflrur  126. 

—  tl-Hamril  266. 

—  Jenuhur  234. 

—  Juh>b  YQsuf  253. 

—  tl-Kharaib  212. 

—  tl-Khuldeh    (Heldtta) 
274. 

—  Kuisa  382. 

—  tl-ILeben  339. 

—  el-ILubban  214. 

—  Lu'biyeU  246. 

—  Ma.thnael-Marluli338. 

—  Mehmed  390. 

—  Meithelun  291. 

—  Mimyeh  252. 

—  Mohammed  'All  285. 

—  Mwfad  292. 

—  en-Nakiira  266. 

—  en-Nebi  Yunus  274. 

—  Oimar  Agha  363. 

—  es-Sawiyeh  214. 

—  Sheikh  Mahmiid  234. 

—  Sukreir  123. 

—  et-Tudjar  216. 

—  Tuiman  370.  377. 

—  Ycni  Sheher  382. 

—  Yunus  121. 

—  Zebib  153. 
Khaneki  Fok  403. 

—  Taiht  403.' 
el-Khanni  360. 
Khans  xvii. 
el-Khanuk  246. 
Kharaba  '161. 
Khar;abeh,  the  287. 
Khareitun  110. 

— ,  Mugharet  110. 
Khar<ezmians,  the  lxxxiv. 
Khar-nub,  District  of 

274,  286. 
Khashm  Usduni  173. 
Khat  ura  381. 
el-Kfciazneh,  the  13  ). 
Kheimet  ed-Dehiir,  Weli 

222.  '    ' 

el-KLidr,  Weli  270. 
el-Khiyara  156. 
Kliorsabad  (Di)r  Sharru- 

ktn )  401. 
Khortaneh  319. 
Kho/iba  127. 
el-Khireibi,    Kliirbet  223. 
•  I-Khudeira  234. 
el-Khureibeh  263. 
e,l-Khusneh  256. 


Kidron,  Valley  of  the  79. 

Kifri  406. 

Kilawun,  Emir  lxxxiv. 

Killis,  Plain  of  374. 

Kings,  Tombs  of  the  87. 

Kinneret  (Lake  of  Tibe- 
rias) 249. 

Kinnesrin  (Chalets)  377. 

Kir  Iluraseth  (Kir  Moab) 
149. 

Kirjali  357. 

Kirjath  Arbtt  (Hebron) 
113. 

—  Jearim  17. 

—  Sepher  169. 
Kishon,  Brook  223.  235. 
Kissa,  River  406. 
el-Kisweh  151.   156. 
Kitti  158. 

Klei'at  337. 
Kleileh  269. 
Kmam  366. 
Kokab  263. 

el-Hawa  220. 
Kokanava  373. 
Kokeb  311. 
Kom  el-Muzeirib  157. 
Koran,  the  lxviii. 
koreae  (Karawa)  129. 
Kornah  411. 
Koryphaion  361. 
Kotu/.,  Sultan  lxxxiv. 
Koulon  17. 
Koyun  Teue  405. 
el-Kubab  (Cobe)  15. 
Kubatiyeh  223. 
Kubb'  el-Janib  114. 
Kubbeh  333. 
Kubbct  el-Arbafin  317. 

—  el-Beddawi  351. 

—  Duris  318. 

—  R-ahil  100. 
el-Kub'eibch  96. 
Kubur  el-3Iuluk  270. 
Kudeira  93. 

el-Kuds  (Jerusalem)  29. 
Kufeir  288. 
Kilfin,  Khirbet  112. 
e'l-Kufr  357. 
Kuieib,  Mt.  164. 
Kulei'at  351. 
el-Kuneiseh  365. 
Kuneise.h,  Khirbet  220. 
el-Kuneitra  263. 
el-Kuneiyeh  156. 
Ku'raslii,  Eiver  357. 
Kurd  Mts.  363. 
Kureiyilt  (Keriolh)  149. 
Kureiyeh,  island  209. 
Kurnet  csh-Shahwan  232. 
Kursi  251. 
Kusana  357. 
el-Kuseifeh  168. 


el-Kuseir  366. 
Ku't  el-fAmaia  410. 
el-Kuteibeli  156. 
el-Kuteifeh  338. 
Kuwe'ik,  the  364.  370. 374. 
"  377.  ' 

el-Kuweikat  265. 
Kil/.a  215. 
Kyryk-Khan  363. 

Lachish   (Tell   el-Hast) 

118. 
el-Ladikiych  (Laodicea 

ad  Mare)  356. 
Lagash  410. 
Lahiteh  168. 
Laish  (Dan)  259. 
Lalim  Dagh  379. 
Language,  Arabic  xxxi. 
Laodicea  ad  Libanum  366. 

—  ad  Mare  356. 
Larit  (el-'Arish)  121. 
Larisa  370. 

Larsa  410. 

Latmin  369. 

Latrun  16. 

Lazarus,  Tomb  of  125. 

Lebanon,  the  (Jebel  Lib- 
nan)  xlviii. 

Lebonah  (el-Lubban)  214. 

Lebweh  (Libo)  365. 

el-Leddan,  Brook  259. 

Legio  224. 

Lejah,  the  151.  205. 

el-Lejjun  (Legio,  Me- 
giddo)  224. 

Leontes.  the  xlix. 

Levantines,  the  li'x. 

Levi,  Tribe  of  lxxvi. 

Libb  148. 

Libnah.  124. 

Libo  (Lebweh)  365. 

Lifta  (Nephloah)  18. 

el-Lisan,  Peninsula  132. 
173. 

Litaui,  the  286. 

Literature   of  the  Arabs 
lxxi. 

—  of  the  Jews  lxxx. 

—  on  Palestine  xcviii. 
Ldd  (Lydda)  11. 
Lohf  el-Lejah  151. 
el-Lozeh,  Khirbet  97. 
Lubban  153. 

el-Lubban  (Lebonah)  214. 
Lubiyeh  247. 

I.udd  (Lydda)  11. 
Luggage  xxi. 
Luz  (Bethel)  213. 
Lydda  (Ludd)  11. 
Lykos  405. 

Lykos    (Nahr    el-Kelb) 
281. 


S^iBfSS  '  'BflK    :^^aES^^SEEws^Ss 


428 


INDEX. 


Ma'amiltein  282. 
el-Ma'an  (Ald'dn)  153. 
Ma'arath  112. 
Ma'arra  349.  377. 
Ma'arret  el-Ikhwan  370. 

—  en-Xo'raan  369. 
el-Ma'bed  353. 
Alabog  (Membij)  39G. 
Mabortha  216. 
Maccabees,  tbc  lxxix. 
Macedonian  Supremacy 

lxxviii. 
Machaeru.%  (Mukaur)  149. 
Machpelah ,  Cave  of  113. 

115. 
Madeba  146. 
Afagdala  (Mejdel)  251. 
MaghSra,  Mines  of  189. 
el-Maghazil  352. 
Magbdftsneh  273. 
Magi,  Well  of  the  99. 
Maglitda  (Ma'lula)  349. 
Afagoras    (Nahr    Beirut) 

280. 
Mahadet  el-Hajj  149. 

—  Hajleh  131. 
Mah'ajjeh  152. 
Mahin  348. 

Mahraud,   Sultan   Ixxxv. 
Ma'in    (in    Moab ;    Belh- 

Baal-Meon)  148. 
Afajumas  (Gaza)  119. 
Mak'ad  Nebi  Musa  207. 
Makam  Eyyub  157. 

—  Sheikh  Husein  212. 

Sa'd  f57. 

Makhmas     (Afichmash) 

98. 
el-Makhna,  Plain  of  215. 
Makhrud  130. 
Makhils,  Spring  of  130. 
Makrun  (Migron)  98. 
Maksaba  274. 
Maktara,    Casale  (Jlukh- 

tara)  287. 
Malekites,  the  lxxi. 
Malekshah.Khaliflxxxii. 
cl-Maliha  14.  93. 
Ma'lul  238. 

Ma'lula  (Maglitda)  349. 
Mamas  232. 

Mamelukes,  the  Ixxxiv. 
Mamre,  Grove  of  113. 
— ,  Oak  of  115. 
Manasseh, Tribe  of  lxxvi. 
Mar  Antanius  335. 

—  Antun  Keshaya,  330. 

—  Antus  206.' 

—  Butrus  er-Rasiil  349. 

—  Du'mit  335. 

—  Elyas    (near    Jerusa- 
lem) 99. 

—  Manna  117. 


Mar  .lirjis  (near  Kanobin) 

330. 
(near   Seidnava) 

349. 

—  Miisa   ed-Duwiir    2^3. 

—  Rokus  283. 

—  Saba  134. 

—  Serkis    (near    EUden) 
330. 

(near  Ma'lula)  349. 

—  Sim'an  360. 

—  Thekla  349. 
Ma'raba  319. 
Marah  187. 
Marakia,  Brook  354. 
Afarathus    (Nahr    Amrit) 

352. 
Afareia  Edessenorum  398. 
Mardin  (Marde)  403. 
Af<H-e«ftaA(BeitJibrin)116. 
Marhatat  369. 
el-Markha  189. 
Maronites,  the  l\ii. 
Alar r a  369. 
Marriages  lxiii. 
Marseilles  3. 
Marsha'ya.  283. 
Marus  253. 
Mary  and  Martha,  House 

of  126. 
St.  Mary's  Well  ('Ain  Kii- 

rim)  94. 

(Nazareth)  244. 

el-Ma'sa.  110. 

Afasada  (Sebbeh)  172. 

Ma'sara  16. 

Mat'hna  el-Ma'luli  338. 

el-Matkh  374.  377. 

Mattathias  lxxix. 

Maximianopolis  (es-Su- 

weida)  164. 
Meadow  Lakes  317. 
Me'aiteh  335. 
Measures  xxiii. 
el-Mebrak  163. 
Mecca  lxxi. 

— ,  Pilgrimage  to  lxxi. 
el-Medauwa  193. 
Afedeba  146. 

Mediaeval  Period  xcvii. 
el-Medifein  210. 
el-Medineh  286. 
el-Medyeh  (Mddein)  17. 
Afegiddo  (Legio)  224. 
— ,  Plain  of  223. 
Mehaimeh  210. 
el-Mehair  188. 
el-Meliarret  192. 
el-Mehna  175. 
Meiron  255. 
Meirflba  336. 
Meis  258. 
Mejd  el-Kcrum  230. 


Mej  del  (near  Asealon)  123. 

—  on    Lake     Tiberias 
(Afagdala)  251. 

—  esh-Shems  262. 
Mcjdelun  318. 
el-Mekr  265. 
Melon,  the  3SS. 
Melchizedek,    Grotto    of 

245. 

Melik  el-'Adil,  Sultan 
Ixxxiv. 

el-Meluha  173. 

Membiif'i/aio'ir,  fiambykc) 
396. 

Menara  258. 

Men  in  349. 

Merash  (Afareshnh)  [16. 

Merj  District   (near  Da- 
mascus) 168. 
ibn  'Amir  223. 
'Aviln  287. 

■  cl-Gharak  222. 

■  el-Hadr  262. 
•  Safra  '257. 

el-Merkab  355. 
el-Merkez  158. 
Merom,  Lake  (Huleh)  253. 

25i. 
Mershineh  331. 
Mersina  361. 
Meru  160. 
Mesa'adet  'Isa  129. 
Mesha,  Monument  of  King 

149. 
Mesharek  210. 
Meshed  'Ali  410. 
el-Meshhed  (Gath  Hephe  r) 

246. 
Meshita  153. 
Meskeneh  411. 
Mefopotamia  392. 
Messiah,  Tree  of  the  257. 
Metawileh,  the  lxxii. 
el-Metn  283. 
Metropolis  (Sidon)  272. 
Meyadin  412. 
Me/.fir  Klyesha'  156. 
el-Mezra'a  (on  the  Nahr 

Jennani)  262. 

—  (near  Acre)  265. 

—  (in  the  Kesrawan  Dll  - 
tricl)  337. 

—  (Dead  Sea)  173. 
Mhala  287. 
Micah,  the  Prophet 

lxxviii. 
Midyat  403. 
MigdalEl  251. 

—  Gad  123. 
Migron  (Makrun)  98. 
Mikweh  Israel  15. 
Milk  Grotto  106. 
Mimis  288- 


INDEX. 


429 


eMHln§  (Tripoli)  333. 360. 

Mirdasides,  the  lxxxii. 
M:sdeh  149: 
el-Mislimal  175. 
M  shmisheh.    Grotto    of 

283. 
el-Mishrakiyeh  360. 
elMiskiyeh  388. 
el-Mismiyeh  151. 
M '  srep/iot/i-Mnim  265. 
Mithiliyeh  222. 
M.yamas  228.  232. 
M  yumiych  271. 
Mzpah   of  the  Tribe   n 

Benjamin    (Nolii  Sain 

wil)  96. 

—  in  Judah  (Ten  es-Sa 
Byeh)  124. 

Mizju/i    of    Gilead    (Bs 

Salt)  137. 
Mkes,  see  Mukci.s. 
Hoabites,  the  Ixxv.  149 
MMein  (el-Medyeh)  17. 
Mohammed,  the  Prophet 

lxv. 

—  rA!i,    Pasha  of  Kgypt 
Ixxxv. 

Mohammedan    Religion 

lxv. 
Monasteries  xvii. 
Monastery  of  the  Cross  92. 
Money  xxii. 

—  changers  xxiii. 
Mongols,  the  lxxxiv 
Monks,  Frank  Ixii. 
Mons  Amanus  361. 

—  Asaltnanos  154. 

—  Bargylus  351. 

—  Castas  (Jebelel-Akra') 
357. 

(near  Antioch)  383 

—  Fortis  (Ka  l'at  K  arn)269 

—  OrocusHas  383. 

—  Regalis  (Shobek)  176. 

—  Rhosus    fJebel    .Musa) 
361. 

—  SUpius  383. 

—  Slmirin  388. 
Months,  Muslim  Jxxiv. 
Moreh.  Mill  240. 
Moses  Ixxvi. 
— ,  Springs   of  (near  Mt. 

Nebo)  148. 

—  —  (near  Sue/.)  1^6. 
— ,  Tomb  of(NebiMilsa) 

133. 

— ,  WeIlof(Mauran)164. 

Mosques  Ixxiii. 

Mosquitoes  lvii. 

Mosul  404. 

el-Mdteh  175. 

Mountain    of    the    Beati- 
tudes 246. 


Mountain  of  Evil  Counsel 
84. 

—  of  the  Obelisk  (Petra) 
183. 

—  of  Offence  82. 
el-Mreijat  292. 
Mu'addamtyeb  (near  Da 

reya)  262. 

—  (near  Jeriid)  33S. 
el-Mn'allaka  (near  Sidon) 

274. 

—  (near  Zahleh)  292. 
el-Murarribeh  161. 
.Mu'awiva,  Khali  f  Ixxxi 
Mudeirij  292. 
cl-Mughayir  (Cr)  410. 
Mughanniveh,  Brook  263 
el-Mughar  253. 
Mugharet  Abliin  273. 

—  Abu  Yaghi  236. 

—  el-Bezeiz  270. 

—  Khareitun  110. 

—  el-Makdura  273 

—  lias  en-Neba'  260. 

—  Sandahanneh  1 17. 

—  Shuwe'iya  289. 

—  Za'ter  381. 

—  ez-Zeitun  273. 
el-Muhezzek  176. 
el-Muliraka'228. 
Mujdeleia  371. 
Mujeidil  164.  238. 
Mukari  xx. 
~MuV.a,tla,' (Kishon),  Brook 

223." 
Mukaur  ( Machaerus)  149. 
Mukeibeleh  239. 
Mukeis  (  Gadara)  159. 
Mukh&lid  234. 
Mukharshit  149. 
el-Mukhtara  287. 
Mulebbis  10. 
el-Muneitira  336. 
el-Munsif  334. 
Muntif  372. 
el-Murakscd  173. 
el-Murasras  168. 
Murbef    Kersabiyeh   331. 
Muslim  Cuslonis  lxiii. 

—  Era  lxxiv. 

—  Prayers  lxx. 

—  Sects  Ixxii. 

—  Year  lxxiv. 
Muslims,  the  lix. 
el-Mutein  232. 
Mutelleh  258. 
Muwahhidin,  the  Ixxiii. 
el-Muz'e'irib  157. 
Mysticism,  Muslim  lxxi. 

Na'anch  13. 

Nab'a  eeh-Sbemeila  328. 

Nabatrcans,    the   lxxviii. 


en-Nabaliyeh  286. 
Nabulus  (Sfiec/iem)  215. 
Na'eimeh  158. 
Nahiyeh  412. 
Nahr  el-Abrash  351. 

—  el-rAdasiyeh  270. 

—  'Afrin  388. 

—  rAin  Burghuz  355. 

—  'Akkar  351.  367. 

—  Amrit  (Marathtts)  352. 

—  Antelyas  280. 

—  el-rArab  357. 

—  'Arka  351. 

—  el-rAsfur  333. 

—  el-rAsi  365.  368. 
el-As'vvad  388. 
el-'Auja    10.    232. 
e\-'Auw;\\\(  Boftreii  a  f) 

274.  286. 

el-A'waj    (Pliarpur) 
151. 

Barada  293.  296. 

—  Barbar  151.  262. 

—  el-Barghut  271.  273. 

—  el-Barid  351. 

—  Baruk  2'-<7. 

—  Beirut.  (Itaforas)  2S0. 

—  Bos  354. 

—  el-Burj  274. 

—  ed-Damur  274. 

—  Derdara  254. 
el-Falik  234. 
el-Ghadir  274. 
Ghamkeh  353. 

—  Haisar'anf  270. 
el-Hasbaiii  258.  287. 

—  Hendaj  253. 
el-Husein  354. 

—  Iluseisan  355. 

—  Ibrahim  (Adonis)  336. 
Iskanderuneh  234. 

—  el-Jauz  333. 

—  el-Jennani  262. 
el-Jesariyeh  270. 
el-Kadi  287. 
Kadisba  328. 

— ■  el-Kasimiyeh  (Litani) 
270.' 

—  el-Keliir  (Eleutheros) 
351. 

—  —   (near    Ladikiyeh) 
356. 

—  el-Kelb    (r.'jkos)    2-<l. 
335. 

—  Khalis  406. 

—  el-Kharabeh  287. 

—  el-Kibleh  352. 

—  Kui-ashi  357. 

—  c'l-Kut  398. 

—  Kuweik  364.  370.  374. 
377. 

—  el-Kuweiseh  388. 

—  el-Litani  270.  292.  365. 


480 


INDEX. 


Nahr  el-Mansura  26C. 

—  el-Mefjir  234. 

—  Mefshuh  265. 

—  el-Milk '(Badas)  355. 

—  el-M6t  230. 

—  Mudiyukoh  355. 

—  el-Mukattar  223. 

—  Na'me'in' '(Belus)   223. 

—  Rubin  123. 

—  er-Rukkad  237. 

—  Rumaileh  355. 

—  Rus  355. 

—  es-Sabirani    (A'waj) 
151. 

—  es  Safa  367. 

—  es-Salib  337. 

—  Sen'ik  273. 

—  es-Sinn  355. 

—  Snobar  366. 

—  Sukat  355.  ^ 

—  ez-Zaherani   235. 

—  ez-Zerka,  (Jabbok)  138. 

(near  Coesarea)  232. 

Nahravan  404. 
En-Na'imeh  274. 

Main  240. 

Nakb  el-Budra  189. 

—  'el-'Ejawi  198. 

—  Eshtar  210. 

—  el-Hawi  195. 

—  Wadi  Barak  207. 
Nakhleh  209. 
en-Nakura  221. 
Name?,  Local  lvii. 
Naphtali,  Tril)e  of  lxxvi. 
Naples  3. 

Nargileh  xxix. 

Narin  Tshai  40G. 

on-Nasara,  Khirbet  113. 

Nasib '153. 

Nasif,  Khirbet  354. 

en-Nasira  (  Nazareth  )1i  1 . 

Nasriyeh  410. 

Natrun  16. 

Natur  333. 

Nauarchis  272. 

Nawa  (Neve)  157. 

Nazareth  (en-Nasira)  241. 

Neapolis  in  Samaria  (She- 

chem,  Nabulus)  216. 
Neba'  el-'Asal  336. 

—  Bkale'a,  or 

—  Kale'a.  283. 

—  el-Leben  336. 

—  Manbiikh  233. 

—  Sannin  283. 
Neb'i  l)abi  240. 

—  Habtt  298. 

—  ris  377. 

—  Mezar  239. 

—  Musa.  133. 

—  Othman  365. 

—  Sa'in,  Weli  239.  214. 


Nebi  Salih  206. 

—  Sai'nwii  (Mizpah)  96. 
17.  18. 

Seidfin,  Weli  273. 
■  Seir,  Weli  270. 

—  Scyyid  Yehuda  259. 

—  Sha'ib  136. 

—  Shit  319. 

—  Shu'aib  246. 

—  Yahya  221. 
Yaf'kub  98. 
Yun'us  112. 
— .  Khan  274. 

Nebk  348. 

—  tree,  the  128. 
Nebo,  Mt.  14S. 
Negla  176. 
Nejd  118. 
Nejef  410. 
Nejha  168. 
en-Nejr  183. 
Nehemiah  lxxviii. 
Nekb  Waui  Musa  133. 
Nephloah  (Lifta)  18. 
Neronias   (Caesarea   Phi 

lippi)  259. 
Nesibin  (Nisibis)  403. 
Nestorians,  the  lxi. 
Netop/iah  124. 
Neve  (Nawa)  157. 
Nezala  (Karyatein)  338. 
Nicopolis  '('Amwas)  16. 
NifTer  410. 
Nikephorion  412. 
Nina  336. 

Nimriid  (Calah)  404. 
Nimriid  Dagh  397. 
Nineveh  (Ninua,   Ninos) 

404. 
Nippur  410. 
Nisibis  (Nesibin)  403. 
Noah's  Tomb  318. 
Nob  (el-'isawiyeh)  97. 

—  (Sha'fat)  212. 
Nosairiyeh,  the  lxxiii 

—  Mts.  351. 

Nova  Trajana  Bostra  161. 

Nu'aran  263. 

Nuffar  410. 

Nukat,  el-Khatib  160. 

en-Niikra  152.'  154. 

Nureddin,  Sultan  lxxxiii 

Obadiah.   Tomb  of  221 
Obtei'a  157. 
Okeilides,  the  Ixxxii. 
Olives,  Mount  of  72. 
'Omar,  Kbalif  Ixxxi. 
Omayyades,  the  lxxxi. 
Omri  lxxvii. 
Ono  (Kafr  rAna)  11. 
Ophrah  98. 
Oreb  129. 


Ornilhopolis  270. 
Onwte.t  (Naur  el-rAsi)357. 
361.  365.  368.  370.  382 
Orrhoe  398. 
Orthopia  351. 
Oshr-tree,  the  170. 
Osraans,  the  lxxxv. 
cl-'Ozeir  411. 

Yagrae  388. 
Pagus  Bottia  383. 
Palaetyrus  267. 
Palmyra  (Tadmor)  339. 
Paltus  (Beldeh)  355. 
Paneas  (Baniyas)  259. 
Parvum  Gerinum  (Zer'in) 

240. 
Passport  xxiii. 
Peleshet  119. 
Pella  370. 
Penlacomias      (Fandiiku- 

miyeh)  222. 
Peraea  lxxix. 
Perushim  (.lews)  lxiii. 
Petah  Tikweh  10. 
Peter's  Draught  of  Fishes 

250. 
Petra  (Wadi  Jlusa)  174. 
Petra  Incisa  231. 
/%flie«e(el-Mis]ni_veb)  151. 
P/iaran  193. 
Pharaoh,  Balh  of  183. 
Pharaoh's  Island  209. 
Plutrnake  370. 
Pharpar  (Nahr  el- A'waj) 

151. 
Phasuelis  (Fasuil)  129. 
P/iiala,     Lake     il'.irket 

Ram)  261. 
Philadelphia    (Rabbath 

Amman)  14'3. 
Philip,  King  lxxix. 
Philippopolis     (Shuhba) 

167. 
Philip's  Well  93. 
Philistines,  the  lxxv.  119. 
Phinehas,   Toino  of  215. 
Phoenicia  xlviii.  264. 
Phoenicians  lxxv. 
Phrases,  Arabic  xlvi. 
Pilate  lxxx. 

Pilgrimage  to  Mecca  lxxi. 
—  Route    to   Mecca   157. 
Pipes  xxix. 
Plan  of  Tour  xii. 
Political  Divisions  lvii. 
Polygamy  lxix. 
Pompeiopoiis  "362. 
Population, Ancient  lxxv. 
— ,  Present  l\  ii '.. 
Porphi/reon  274. 
Port  Sa'M  4. 
Posidium  360. 


INDEX. 


431 


Post  Office  xxiv. 
Prayers,  Muslim  lxx. 
Presses  Oil  &  Wine  xciii 
Private  Houses  xxvii. 
Products  liii- 
PVomontorivm  Album  (Ras 
el-Al>yad)  266. 

—  Posidium  (Has  el-Bus 
eit)  ;!60. 

—  Shosicum     (Ras    el- 
Khan  zir)  361. 

Prophets,    Tombs  of  the 

79. 
Protestants  lxii. 
Ptoltmais  (Acre)  229. 
I'tdw.  Syriae  363. 

Qtvarantana  (Karantal) 
129. 

er-Rabadiyeh  252. 

Rabba  ( Itabbeith  Moab) 
149. 

Rabbah  (Rabbath  Amnion, 
P/tiladi  Iphia,  'Amman) 
143. 

Sabbath  Moab  (Rabba) 
149. 

Rachel,  Tomb  of  100. 

er-Radd,   River  403. 

Rafidiyeh  220. 

er-Ratia,  Plain  195. 

Rahab,  House  of  128. 

Rahaba,  Cattle  412. 

Rainfall  xlix. 

er-Rakka  412. 

Rakka'th  (Tiberias)  248 

Rakleh  291. 

er-Ram  (Ramah  of  Ben- 
jamin) 212. 

Ramadan  lxx. 

Ramadiyeh  412. 

Raman  (er-Ram)  212. 

Ramallah  212. 

er-Rameb  (Remeth)   222 

Ram  in  221. 

Ramitha  356. 

er-Ramleh  12. 

Rammon  (Simmon)  98. 

Samoth  Oilead  137. 

Raphia  (Tell  aifah)  121 

Ras  Abu  Zenimeli  188. 

—  el-Abyad  266. 

—  el-Ahmar  257. 

—  el-rAiin(near  Ba'albek) 
326. 

(near  Jaffa)  10.  232. 

(near  Nabulus)  219. 

(near  Tyre)  267 

—  Ba'albek  365. 

—  Beirut  280. 

—  el-Rugseit  36). 

—  ed-Piunur  274. 


Ras  el-Fai  350. 
Feshkhah  131. 
Ibn  Hani  360. 

—  .ledra  274. 
el-Khanzir  361. 
el-Masri  209. 

—  Mersi'd  131. 

—  el-Metn  283. 

—  en-Nakiira  266. 

—  en-Natur  333. 

—  en-Nuweita  170. 

—  es-Safsaf  204. 

—  Shakk'a  333. 

—  Suwik  208. 

—  Za'feraneh  196. 

—  Zerka  Ma'hi  148. 
Kasheiya  283. 
Rasheiyat  el-Fukhiir  261 
Rebecca,  Well  of  399. 
Reedy  Sea  188. 
Reifun  337. 
ei-Reineh  239.  246. 
Religions  lix. 
er-Remeimin  138. 
Remeth  (Rameh)  222. 
er-Remtheh  158. 
Rephaim,    Valley  of   15. 
Rephidim  193. 
Reptiles  lvi. 
er-Reshidiyeh  267. 
Resm  el-Hadeth  365. 
Reuben,  Tribe  of  Ixxvi 
Keyak  292. 
Rliinocolura      (el  -'Arish) 

121. 
Rhosus  (JebelMusa)  361. 
Riblah  365. 

Riding  Equipment  xx. 
Riha  372. 
Rijal  el-'Amud,    Chapel 

of  the  215. 
Rijm  el-Aneibideh  144. 

—  el-'Is  163. 

—  el-Melfu'a  144. 
Rimmon  in  Benjamin 

(Rammon)  9S. 
Rishon  le-Zion  15. 
1!  iver  of  Egypt  (el-'Arish) 

121. 
Rock  Tombs  cxiv. 
Roman  Period  xcv. 
Romans,  the  lxxix. 
Roses,  Valley  of  (Wadi 

el-Werd)  93.  99. 
Iiuad  (Aradus)  352.  354. 
er-Rudeimeh  168. 
Rujib  215. 
Rujm  el-Beidan  174. 

—  el-Kerak  175. 

—  el-Misrif  161. 
Bujum  Sebzin  113. 
Ruineideh  114. 
er-Rumeileh  274. 


Rumeish  256. 
Rum-Kal'a  399. 
er-Rumman  138. 
Rushmiya  228. 
Ruweiha  372. 

es-Sabkha  412. 

Sabra  183. 

Sad  ad  (Zedad)  349. 

Sa'dijeh,  Springs  of  223. 

Safed  254. 

Safety,  Public  xxv. 

Saffuriyeh  ( Sippori,  Sep- 

phoris)  239- 
Safiriyeh  (Sariphaea)  11. 
Safita  352. 
es-Safiyeh  173. 
Safsaf  255. 

es-Safut,  Khirbet  144. 
Sahel  el-Ahma  247. 
Sahel  el-Batt6f  239. 
Sahel,  Plain' of  283. 
Sahnaya,  156. 
es-Sahra,  Plain  of  318. 
Satiwet  el-Khidr  164. 
Saida.  (Sidon)  271. 
Said  Neil  292. 
Saiyid-Nayil  292. 
es-Sajara  246. 
Sajur,  the  397. 
Sakhrat  EyyQb  157. 
Sakiyeh  11.  15.  18. 
Sa'kkaia  (ShakkS)  167. 
Sakut  130. 

Saladin,  Sultan  lxxxiii. 
Salah  403. 
es-Salehiyeh  316. 
Salehiyeh  412. 
Salim  220. 
Salim  224. 
es-Salt  137. 
Samachonitis  253. 
Samakh  159.  236. 
Sam'al  363. 
Samaria  (Sebaste)  221. 
Samaria  lxxix. 
Samaritans,   the  lxxviii. 
Samarra  405. 
Samosata  (Sanisat)  399. 
Samson,  Tomb  of  120. 
Samuel,  Tomb  of  96. 
es-Sanamein   (Aere)   156. 
SaridahanneU  117. 
Sannin  283.  292. 
Sanur  222. 
Saphir  123. 
Sar,  Khirbet  145. 
iWa  14.   136. 
Sarafand  (near   Ramleh) 
'  15. 

—  (near  Tantura)  231. 

—  (Sarepta,    Zarephalh) 
270. 


IB 


HKHMmBflPcHF 


432 


INDEX. 


Sarba  282. 

Sarbiit  el-Jemel  209. 

—  el-Khadem  208. 
Sarepta  (Sarafand)  270. 
Sarghaya  '293.  319. 
Sarikh  158. 

Baripkaea  (Safiriyeh)  it. 
Saris  16. 

Sarona  10. 
Sarus  (Saros)  362. 
Sa'sar    (near    Damascus) 
'  263. 

—  (near  Safed)  256. 
cs-Saru,  Khirbet  175. 
Saul,  King  Ixxvi. 
es-Sawafir  123. 
cs-Sawiyeh  214. 

Scala  Tyriorum  (Ras  en- 
Nakura)  266. 

Scandalium  (Scand arivm, 
Iskanderiineh)  266. 

■Scandcroon  361. 

Scythopolis   (Beisan)  235. 

Sealed  Fountain  108. 

Season  xi. 

Sebasle  221. 

Sebastiyeh  (Sebasle,  Sa- 
maria) 221. 

es-Sebbeh  (Masada)  172. 

Sebil  Abu  Nebbut  8. 

es-Sebkba  173. 

Seburra  371. 

Sects,  Christian  lx. 

— ,  Muslim  lxxi. 

Sedakin  256. 

Scidnaya  349. 

es-Sefineh  288. 

Seir  166. 

Seif  ed-Dauleb,  Kbalif 

Scilun  (Shiloh)  214. 
Sejed  14. 

es-Seksekiveb  270. 
Selar  (Petra)  177. 
Selefeh  224. 
Seleucia  410. 
Seleucia  Pieria  358. 
Selim,  Sultan  Ixxxv. 
Seljuks,  the  lxxxii. 
Scldkiyeh  35S. 
es-Semiriyeh      (Shimron 

Meron)  265. 
Semites  lxxv. 
Semuniyeh  238. 
Senjirli  363. 
Se.nke.rch( Ellasar,  I.arsa) 

410. 
Btnnabrit  159. 
Sephardim  (Jews)  lxii. 
,Se;>p/)<>m(Saffuriych)239 
8erbal,  Jit.  193. 
Serjilla  372. 
Scrmada  373. 


Serroin  369. 

Seruj,  Plain  of  397. 

Severek  399. 

Seyyidet.  el-Mantara  273. 

Mar  Nuhra  335. 
Sha'ad  365.' 
Sha'fat  97. 

—  (Nob)  212. 
Shaferites,  the  lxxi. 
esh-Shajara  237. 
Shakka  (Sakkaia)  167. 
Shakkfira  263. 
Shakra  152. 
esh-Sham    (Damascus) 

296. 

—  (Syria)  xlvii. 
Shanan'ir  335. 
SAaron,  Plain  of  10. 11.15. 
Shatra  410. 

Shatt  el-'Arab  411. 

e'l'-Hai  41Q. 
Shatta'235. 
Shec'hem  (Nabulus)   216. 
Shefa  <Amr  238. 
Sheikh  (Weli)  Ixxiv. 

—  rAiyash  367. 
'Amr,  Weli  118. 

—  Daroun  265. 

—  Daud  265. 
Ghaniin,  Weli  219. 

—  Iskander,  Hill  of  224 

—  Jerrah,  Weli  76. 

—  Khidr,  Weli  260. 

—  Koi  '357. 

—  Madkur  124. 

—  Miskin  156. 

—  fOthman    cl-Hazuri 
261. 

—  Ridwan,  Weli  121. 

—  Sa'd  157. 
Salih  173. 

—  Salih,  Tomb  of  (Sinai) 
206.  ' 

—  Sha'ban,  Weli  121. 

—  Suleiman,  Weli  15. 

—  Yusuf  259. 

—  Zuweid  121. 
Sheikhu  Bekr  377. 
Sheikhun  369. 
Shejarat  el-Arba'in  228 
Shelif  365. 
en-Shemesh  126. 
Shenir  (Hcrmon)  289. 
Shepherds,  Field  of  the 

107. 
— ,  Crotto  of  the  107. 
esh-Shera  176. 
esh-Sherafat  14.  93.  99. 
esh-Sherira  (Jordan)  130. 
Sheri'at  el-Menadireh 

(Yarmilk)  159. 
Shiberiyeh  266. 
Shihan  149. 


Shi'ites,  thelxxii.  Ixxxi. 

Shiloh  96.  214. 

Shimron    Meron     (Seni- 

riyeh)  265. 
Shirpurla  410. 
Shobek  176. 

Shochoh  (Shuweikeh)  124. 
Shomron  (Samaria)  221. 
Shops  xxviii. 
S  h  u  h  b  a    (Ph  Hipp  opolit ) 

167. 
Shumlan  287. 
csh-Shuweifat  3S4. 
esh-Shuweir  232. 
Shuweiya  289. 
Khirbet  289. 
Mugharet  289. 
Shuweikeh  (Socofi)   124. 
Sib'il  330. 

Sichem  (Nabulus)  216. 
Sidna  fAli  235. 
Sidon  (Saida)  271. 
Sidr,  the  128.  170. 
Siffin  411. 
es-Sik  (Petra)  176. 
Sikka  333. 
Sikket  Shu'aib  204. 
Siknani  152. 
Silet  ed-Dahr  222. 
Sili  223.  ' 
Siloah  (Silwan)  82. 

—  or    Siloam,     Pool  of 
83. 

Silpius,  Mt.  3S3. 
Silwan  (Siloah)  82. 
Sim'an,  Weli  244. 
Simeil  404. 

Simeon,  Tribe  of  lxxvi. 
St.  Simeon  Stylitcs  378. 
St.  Simeon's   Harbour 

358. 
Simon  the  Leper,  House 

of  125. 

—  Bar  Cochba  lxxx. 

—  the  Tanner,  House  of 
8. 

Simsim  118. 
Simyros  (Sumra)  851. 
Sin,  Wilderness  of  L89- 
Sinai,  Monastery    of  Mt. 

189. 
— ,  Peninsula  of  184. 
Sinaitic  Inscriptions  191. 
Sindyaneh  232. 
Singara  (Sinjar)  403. 
Sinites,  the  355- 
Sinjar  (Singara)  403. 
-,  Sits.  403. 
Sinjil  214. 
Sinn  en-Nabra  159. 
Sippori  (Sepphoris,  Saffii- 

riyeh)  239. 
Sirion  (Hermon)  289. 


INDEX. 


433 


Sleibis  Beduins  309. 

Socoh  124. 

Sodo?n  173. 

Sodom,  Apple  of  123. 170. 

Soli  362. 

Solomon,  King  lxxvii. 

— ,  Pools  of  108. 

Somelaria  Templi,  Casale 

265. 
Sorek,  Valley  of  123. 
Specula  Alba  (es-Safiveh) 

124. 
Spring  of  Mary  94. 

—  of  the  Sultan  128. 
Sreisat  397. 

Statistics,  Modern  lix. 
Steamboats  1. 

Stone  of  Rest  126. 

Stone   Monuments   xciii. 

Suba,  17. 

Subbet  Firraun  156. 

Suf  158. 

cs-Sfik  118. 

Suk  el  'Affetsh  410. 

—  el-Gharb  284. 

—  el-Khan  287. 

—  Wadi  Barada  293.  319. 
Sukaniyeh  287. 
Sukneh  350. 

Sulem  (Shun em)  240. 

Sultan's  Spring  128. 

Sumeid  163. 

Sumra  (Simyros)  351. 

Sunem  (Sulem)  240. 

Sunnites,  the  lxxi. 

Siir  (Tyrus)  267. 

— ,  R\ii»  (Belka)  146. 

Suristan  (Syria)  xlvii. 

Suriya  300. 

Susiych  (Hippos)  251. 

Suwarat  el-Kebireh  168. 

—  es-Saghireh  168. 
es-Suweida.  164. 
es-Suweidiyeh  3~8. 
Suweifiyeh  145. 
es-Suweiniyeh  149. 
es-S\iweimira  168. 
Sycumimum  (Haifa)  225. 
Sychar  220. 
Synagogues  xcv. 
Syria  Pieria  388. 
Syrians  l\iii. 

Ta'amireh  Beduins  169. 
IVannak  (Taanach)  223. 
Tabaka  146. 

Tabariyeh  (  Tiberias)  247. 
e't-Tabigha  250. 
Tabitba,  House  of  9. 
Tabor.  Mt.  245. 
Tadmor  (Palmyra)  339. 
Tafas  156. 
Taflia  167. 


et-Tafileh  175. 
Ta/nit  (Tibnin)  257. 
Taiteba  257. 
tak'i-Kesra  410. 
TaPat  ed-Dam  126. 
Talia  318. 
Talliyeh  318. 
Talluza  (Tirzah)  220. 
1'almud,  the  Ixxx. 
Talmudists,   Tombs   of 

the  255. 
Tamar  (Palmyra)  339. 
Tamyras  (Damur)  274. 
Tantur  99. 
tantura  (Dor)  231. 
Tarabulus  (.Tripoli)  331. 
Tarbush  xxi. 
Tarciya  318. 
Taricheae  251. 
Tarsus  362. 
Tartus  (Tortosa)  353. 
Tatareh  169. 
Tauk  406. 

Tauros  (Beit  Jabr)  127. 
Tawahin  es-Sukkar  129. 
tayasir  220. 
et-Tayyibeh(nearBeitin) 
'98.  213. 

—  (near  Hama)  369. 
(in  the'  Hauran)    161. 

Taza  Khurmaty  406. 
Teflfah,  District  274.286. 
Tehum  334. 
Teifileh  371. 
et-Teim,  Ruin  148. 
et-Tekkiyeh  293.  317. 
Tekrit  405. 
Tektek  Dagh  399. 
Tekii'a,  Kbirbet  (  Tekoah) 

110. 
Tekweini  283. 
Ttla  40 J. 

Telegraph  Offices  xxv. 
Telfita  349. 
et-Tell  (near  Damascus; 

349. 

—  (Betlisaida)  251. 

— ,    Ruin   (in  the  Wadi 

el-Haramiyeh)  214. 
Tell  Abu  rAlaik  127. 

Hareireh  169. 

en-Neda  263. 

Shajara  168. 

—  Shusheh  224. 

—  Yusuf  263. 

—  AbuT-Khanzir  263. 
Telladi  381. 

fell  el-Ahmar  397. 

—  el-rAjuT  121. 

—  el-Asb'ari  158. 

—  Biseh  367. 

—  Bornat  116. 

—  el-Burak  270. 


Tell  Busireh  354. 

—  ed-Daba'  266. 
ed-Derara  173. 
Dothan  (Dothan)  223. 
Dubbeh  263. 
Ermen  4C0. 
el-Fukhar  229. 
el-Ful  212. 

—  el-Hajar  98. 

—  el-llamir  156. 
Hara  263. 

—  el-Has!  118. 
el-Husn  (Beisiin)  236. 
—  (Ilauran)  158. 

—  Hum  252. 

—  liuma  130. 

—  Irmid  266. 

—  fIzran  167. 

—  Jeljul  (Gilyal)  130. 
Jem'a  121. 

—  Jezer  (Oezer)  13. 

—  el-Judeiyideh  116. 

—  el-Kadi  259. 
Kaimun  224. 
el-Kassis  224. 
el-Khadr  160. 
el-Kurd  an  i  238. 
Kuyunjik  404. 

—  L6  410. 

—  Ma'jera  130.  220. 
el-Makarim  237. 

—  el-Mansura  118. 
el-Marshuk  269. 

—  el-Mastaba  236. 
el-Matabar  148. 

—  Mindau  366. 
el-Mutesellim  224. 

—  Nebi  Yiinus  404. 
Nimrin  136. 

—  'Omar  238. 

—  er-Reshidiyeh  267. 

—  Rifah  121.* 

—  es-Safiyeh  123. 

—  es-$alehiyeh  317. 
Sandehanneh  116. 

—  es-Seniek  231. 

—  es-Semen  158. 

—  esh-Shaghur  148._ 

—  esh-Shamman  235. 

—  Shihan  (Hauran)  168. 
(Moab)  149. 

—  Stuma  372. 

—  Sukat  355. 

—  Zif  (Ziph)  170. 
Temnin  el-Foka  318. 

—  et-Tahta,  318. 
Temperature  1. 
Templars,  the  lxxxiii. 
Teniyet  Abu'l-'Ata,  338. 
Tents  xviii. 
Terebinth  Valley  124. 
Terib  381. 

|Terkumya  116. 


BB 


434 


INDEX. 


et-Tcrrabin  ,    Spring     of 

200. 
Ihapsacut  (Tiphsah)  411, 
Tharthar,  River  405. 
TAe&e*  (.Tubas)  220. 
Theouprosopon  (Ras 

Shakka)  333. 
Thormasia    (Turmus 

fAiya)  214. 
Thrax,  Castle  (lieit  Jabr) 

127. 
elh-Thughra  291. 
Thughrat  'Asfur  158. 
Tiberias  (Tabariyeh)247. 
— ,  Baths  of  250. 

—  ,  Lake  of  249. 
Tibnah  (Timnath  in   Ju- 

dah)  124. 
Tibneh  (near  Jifna)  213. 
Tibnin  257. 
Tigranocerta  400. 
Tigris.  River  392. 400. 401. 
Timnath  (Tibna)  124, 

—  Serah  (Tibneh)  213. 
Timur  lxxxv. 
et-Tin,  Khirbet  367. 
Tiphsah  (Thapsacus)  411. 
et-Tireh  (near  Acre)  231. 

—  (Hauran)  158. 
Tirzah  (Talluza)  220. 
Tizin  37D. 
Tobacco  xxix. 
Tokat  364. 

Tomat  Niha  286.  292. 
Tomb  Chambers  xciv. 
Tora,  Brook  316. 
Toron  (Tibnin)  257. 
Tortosa  (Tartus)  353. 
Towara  Bedirins  185. 
tower  of  Flocks  107. 
Trachon  151. 
Trachonitis  lxxix.  154. 
Travelling     Companions 

xii. 

—  Equipment  xxi. 

—  Expenses  xi. 
— ,  Mode  of  xvii. 

—  Routes  xiii. 

—  Season  xi. 
Trees  of  Syria  liv. 
Treif  412. 
Tricomias  (Terkuuiva) 

116. 
Trieste  4. 
Tripoli  or  Tripolis  (Ta- 

rabulus)  331. 
Tsharmelik  397. 
Tsharmulv  399. 
Tshilparat  404. 
Tubas  (Thebez)  220. 
f  udmur  339. 
Tulul  es-Safa  317. 
Tiir  196!  ' 


Tur  'Abdin,  District  403. 
e't-Tur,  .Tebel  (Mt.  of 

'Olives)  72. 
Tiira  270. 
Tur'an  247. 
Tiirdti   (Umm   el-'Amud) 

266. 
Turconians  lix. 
Turks,  the  lix. 
Turmanin  364. 
Turmus  'Aiya  214. 
et-Turra  160. 
Tuz  Khurmaty  406. 
Tyre  (Sur)  267. 
Tyros  ('Arak  el-Emir)  145. 

Vdniin  (Bismyah)  410. 
Ufrenus  364. 
Vlatha  253. 
Umm  el-rAmud  266. 

el-'Awamid  266. 

edl)abra  145.  ^ 

el-Fiis(near  MarSaba) 
134.     ' 

—  Habib  258. 

—  el-Haretein    (in    the 
Hauran)  168. 

'Jerar  (Gerar)  121. 
el-Meyadin  160. 

—  Rush  18. 
Sa'ad  198. 

—  Shersha  367. 

—  ez-Zeitun  168. 
Unki  (el-'Amk)  363. 
Ur  (el-Mugha'vir)  410. 
Urdeh  357. 

Urfa  (Edessa)  397. 
Urhai  (Urfa)  398. 
Uvuk  410. 
el-Uz  412. 

"VaUmia  (Baniyas)  354. 
Vegetables  liv. 
Venice  3. 
Via  Maris  263. 
Vilayets,  Turkish  lvii. 
Vocabulary,    Arabic 
xxxvii. 

Wadi  Ab  256. 

—  Abu  Gerrayat   191. 

Hamad  193. 

Hamaka  164. 

fteml  148. 

Sedra  130. 

Shiisheh  224. 

Talib  194. 

—  cl-Abyad  129. 

—  el-Ahbal  175. 

—  Ahmed  93. 

—  el-Ahseniyat  136. 

—  rAin'fAta  290. 
Ghazal  237. 


Wadi  'Ain  es-Sitt  149. 

—  el-'Ajam  151.  Iri6 . 

—  el-'Akbiyeh  270. 

—  el-Ak'hdar  207. 

—  el-fAkir  207. 
'Aleyat  192. 

—  'Ali  16; 

—  el-'Amara  187. 

—  el-Amra,z  173. 

—  'Ameis  251. 
'Amman  153. 

—  'Animar  93. 
el-'Amud  252. 
'Antvira  335. 
el-fArab  159. 

—  el-fArais  136. 

—  el-'Areijeh  170. 
el-'Arja  176. 

—  '"Ami  262. 
el-'Arrub  112. 

—  Artas  109.  110. 
el-'Asal  259.  261. 

—  el-'Ashur  257. 

—  'Auba  257. 

—  el-rAujeh  129. 
Ba'ba'  189.  208. 
Baghdadi  412. 

—  Barak  207. 
Baruka  160. 
el-Basta  174. 
Beit  Hanina  17.  <):  >  %. 
Keit  Imrin  222. 
Bel'ameh  223. 
Beni  Hasan  289. 

—  Berah'207. 
el-Be'rdi  157. 
Berej  173.  . 

—  Bidan  220. 

—  Bireh  220. 
Bittir  14.  93.  12ft. 

—  el-Biyar  109.  112.. 
Budra  189. 
Bukei'a  130. 

—  Buseira  175. 

—  Bushrikh  336. 

—  el-Butm  160. 
ed-Dabr  133. 

—  ed-Dahab  158. 

—  Dana  176. 

—  Deiniin  129. 

—  ed-Deir(Wadi  Jeirash) 
138. 

(Sinai)  191. 195. 198. 

206. 

—  Deir  el-Beinit  10!9. 

—  ed-Derara  173. 

—  ed-Diyar  111. 

—  cd-Duvveir  336. 

—  el-Ehreir  158. 

—  'Ejawi  194. 

—  Ejeleh  192. 

—  Esdud  123. 

—  'Esheh  220. 


INDEX. 


435 


Wadi  el-'Ezziyeh  266. 

—  Fara  98. 

—  Farra(near  I  etra)  174 

—  el-Far'a  120.  220. 

—  Fasail  129. 

—  el-Fesheiheh  191. 

—  Firan  191 '. 

—  Kir'iin  253.  263. 

—  Fiyyad  130. 

—  (iharandel  187.  176. 

—  Ghazal  209. 

—  el-Uhazzeh  12!.  169. 

—  el-Ghuweir  176. 

—  Guweyych  173. 

—  el-Hafaf  172. 

—  Ilajit  330. 

—  e'l-Hamam  252. 

—  el-Hammam  142. 

—  Hainmana  283.  292. 

—  e'l-Hamdeh  169. 

—  el-Haramiyeh  213. 

—  Harba  144. 

—  el-Hank  126. 
— ■  Harisa  336. 

—  el-Hasa  175. 

—  Hasas'a  169. 

—  e'l-Ha'si  118. 

—  Hathrura  172. 

—  Ilawfira  187. 

—  Hebran  198. 

—  Heidan  149. 

—  Heiruna  331. 

—  Herdawil  265. 

—  Hesban  146. 

—  el-Hibbariyeh  289. 

—  Hobuz  209. 

—  el-Hod  126. 

—  el-Homr  209. 

—  el-Hrobbeh  101. 

—  Huweimirat  209. 

—  Imam  'AH  16. 

—  el-'Iran  187. 

—  el-'Ishsh  207. 

—  el-Jedun  257. 

—  Jeida  238. 

—  el-Jemel    (near    Be- 
thany) 126. 

(in  the  Ghdr)  130. 

—  cl-Jennani  26'J. 

—  Jerash  138. 

—  Jeri'a  146. 

—  Jermak  286. 

—  el-Jib  175. 

—  .lifna  212. 

—  Jinneb  189. 

—  el-.16z  76. 

—  Kalnniyeh  14.  17. 
— -  Kanawat  152. 

—  Kandil  357. 

—  Kannobin  330. 

—  Karkara  265. 

—  el-Kam(nearAcre)265. 
269.' 


Wad!   el- Kara    (in    the 

Anti-Libanus)  319 

—  Kasab  207. 

—  Kaliun  135. 

—  el-Kedr  172. 

—  el-Kefrein  148. 

—  el-Kelt  126.  130. 

—  el-Keneitera  133. 

—  el-Kerak"  173. 

—  Keirawan  13S. 

—  Khabra  170. 

—  el-Khali]  (near  Latriin) 
16. 

(es-Sebaf)   169. 

—  Khamileh  208. 
Khareitun  169. 
Khashabeh  259. 

—  Khasheibeh  171. 

—  Khazneh  220-n 

—  Kherabiyeh  134. 

—  Kheslan  173. 
Khilal  255. 
el-Khudeira  231. 

—  Khureibeh  261. 
Kleit  237. 

—  Koseir  192. 
e'l-Kuf  116. 

—  Kuttein  137. 

—  Kuweiseh  188. 
Lebweh  207. 

—  el-Leham  124. 

—  el-Lej'ah  205. 

—  el-Luwa.  167. 

—  el-Jla  257. 
Miighara  189. 
Magheirat  207. 

—  Mahras  171. 

—  Ma'in  146. 
Makkus  123. 
el-Malih  130.  220. 
Marra  209. 
el-Meddan  158. 
Medfun  334. 
el-Mejuneh  265. 

—  Mekaffa  210. 
Merakh  209. 
Merattameh  208. 
el-Merayih  20S. 

—  el-JIerj  116. 

—  Mesakkar  208. 
el-Mesheirejeh  257. 
el-Jlilh  224. 
Miserara  11. 

—  el-M6jib  149. 

—  Mokatteb  191. 

—  Mokheires  191. 
Mubaghghak  172. 

—  JIudahdireh  129. 

—  el-Mufakh  126. 
el-Mugheiriyeh  336. 

—  el-Muhauwat  173. 

—  Wusa  174.  176. 

—  el-Mutera  339. 


Wadi  Nakb  el-Budral89. 
— ■  en-Nar  (Kidron 
Valley)  80.  134. 
(in  the  Belka)  146. 

—  Nasb  208. 

—  Nashif  253. 

—  Nasir  255. 

—  en-Nawa'imeh   129. 

—  Neba'  191. 

—  Nediyeh  191. 

—  Nefsi  367. 

—  Nehban  191. 

—  en-Nejl  176. 

—  Nemeila  176. 

Nesrin  191. 

Nimra  167. 

—  Nimrin  136. 

—  Ntara  256.  _ 

—  Nukhbar  173. 

—  en-Numeira  173. 

—  en-Nuweijis  144. 

—  Rabad  el-Yamus   172. 

—  Rababeh  197.  206. 

—  er-Rahib  101. 
er-Rahub  160. 

—  er-Rameh  148. 

—  Ras  el-Bedr  164. 
Rattameh  194. 
er-Rebabi  80. 
er-Remeimin  138. 

—  er-Remmaneh  191. 

—  Reshash  129. 

—  er-Rimm  194. 

—  Ruba'i  175. 

—  Rummaneh  126.  217. 

—  Rnshmiya  237. 

—  Ruweiha  210. 
er-Ruw'eihibiyeh  209. 

—  Sabra  176. 
es-Sadad  197.  203. 
cs-Saflyeh  123. 

—  es-Safasif  171. 
Sah'ab  207. 
Saidun  144. 
Sa'l  209. 
Salihi  138. 
Salima  283. 
es-Samak  251. 
Samghi  209. 
es-Sant  116.  123. 
Sarar  '14.  123. 
l5aris  16. 

—  es-Sebar  169. 

—  Seba'iyeh  206. 
es-Sebbeh  171. 

—  Seilun  214. 
es-Sekkeh  274. 
Selaf  194. 
es-Semiriyeh  265. 

—  es-Seuineh  174. 

—  Semneh  210. 

—  Serayib  261. 

—  Seyal  171. 


43G 


INDEX. 


Wadi  Shahrilr  284.  292. 

—  Sha'ib  136. 

—  Sliakif  170. 

—  esh-Shamiya  174. 

—  Shebeikeh  188.  209. 

—  Shebruh  336. 

—  esh-Sheikh  206. 

—  Shellal  189. 

—  esh-Shellaleh  159. 

—  esh-Shemali  257. 

—  esh-Sheri'a  169. 

—  Shi'b  207. 

—  Shibra  261. 

—  esh-Sbita  145. 

—  esh-Sliomar  160. 

—  esh-Shoinariyeh  238. 

—  Shu'aib  195.  19S. 

—  Shuweifat  274. 

—  Sidr  (Sinai)  189. 

—  es-Sidr  126. 

—  Sik  20S. 

—  es-Sir  145. 

—  es-Sitt  175. 

—  es-Slei  197. 

—  Soleif207. 

—  Sudur  187. 

—  es-Suweimeli  132. 

—  es-Suweinit  98. 

—  Suweiriveti  207. 

—  Siiwik  208. 

—  Tabar  209. 

—  ct-Tafileh  175. 

—  et-lY'l  188. 

—  Tannurin  336. 

—  Tarfa  197. 

—  et-Tarr  191.  207. 

—  et-Tawahin  255. 

—  Tayyibehl8S.208.319 

—  et-Teim  261.  287. 

—  et-Teish  270. 

—  et-Teleika  175. 

—  eth'-Theined  175. 

—  Tubas  130. 

—  Unim  Takha  194. 
Teman  189. 

—  Useit  188. 

—  el-Wa'leh  148. 

—  WarrSn  158. 

—  el-Werd  14.   93.  99. 

—  Werdan  187. 

—  Yahfufeh  293.  319. 

—  Yetem  210. 

—  Yetma  214. 

—  Zarareh  259. 

—  Zaliai-  159. 


Wadi  Zakarya  116. 

—  ez-Zeidi  152.  160. 

—  Zerakiyeh  206. 

—  ez-Zerka.  153. 

—  Zeitun'206. 
ez-Zuweira  173. 

Wahhabis,  the  lxxii. 
el-Wakkas  253. 
Warkd  (Erech)  410. 
el-Watiyeh  Pass  207. 
Weapons  xxv. 
Weideh  210. 
Weights  xxiii. 
Weiranshehir  4I,(). 
el-Welejeh  14.  93. 
Weli  (Sheikh)  lxxiv. 
Wild  Animals  lv. 
Wilhelnia  Colonv  10. 
Winds  1. 
Wine  xix. 
Women  xxvii. 
Wuld  rAli  Beduins  158. 
Wuta  Hills  187. 

Ya'at  327. 

Yabrud  (Jebnula)  348. 

Yafa  7. 

— ,    Village     in    Galilee 

(Japhia)  238. 
Yahfufeh  293. 
el-Yajur  235. 
Yajuz  142. 
Yakit  377. 
Yal'o   16. 
Yammuneh,    Lake    of 

327 
el-Yamon  223. 
Yardi'n  (Jordan)  130. 
Yarmuk   (Hieromyces) 

236. 
Yarun  (Iron)  256. 
Yasuf  214. 
Ya'ter  256. 
Yazur  11.  15. 
Yebna  (Jabneh)  123. 
Yebrud  213. 
el-Yehild,  Khirbet  14. 
el-Yehudiyeh  11. 
Yeni  Kelek  405. 

Sheher  382. 
Yetma  214. 

Yoktanides,  the  lxxxi. 
Yutta  169. 


Zab  el-A'la  405. 


Zab  es-Saghir  405. 

Zabun  365. 

Zacchteus,  House  of  182. 

Zahalteh  286. 

Zahar  en-Nasara  159. 

ez-Zaherani,  'Brook  270. 

Zahleh  252. 

Zakarya  124. 

Zakho  404. 

Zakkvim  Tree,  the  128. 

Zammarin  223.  232. 

Zanu'a  (Zanoah)  124. 

Zara'a  349. 

Zarepludh  (Sarafand)  270. 

Zawata  220'. 

Zebabda  222. 

ez-Zebedani  293.  319. 

Zebedee,  Home  of  238. 

Zebuba  224. 

Zebulon,   Plain  of  (ISat- 

tof)  239. 
~,  Tomb  of  273. 
— ,  Tribe  of  lxxvi. 
Zechariah,  the  Prophet 

lxxviii. 
Zedad  (Sadad)  349. 
Zedekiah  lxxviii. 
Zegharta  331. 
Zeitan  377. 
Zeituniyeh  360. 
Zeizun  237. 
Zekrun  333. 
Zemarites,   the  351.  354 
Zemreh  354. 
Zeinabiyeh  337. 
Zmobhi  412. 
Zengi,  Emir  lxxxiii. 
Zerrah  366. 
Zerakiyeh  156. 
Zerghaya  293. 
Zei'in  (Jezreel)  239. 
Zerka  Ma'in  132. 
ez-Zib  (Achzib,  Ecdi/ma) 
265.  ly  ' 

Zifta  285. 
ez-Ziknani  142. 
Zion  31. 

Ziph  (Tell  Zif)  170. 
Zoreah  (Sar'a)  14. 
Zoroa  (E'zrar)  152. 
Zubb     el-Baheir    Abu 

Bahariyeh  207. 
Zuk  Masbah  335. 
-  iMikayil  2S2.  335. 
Zuweireh  367. 


Printed  by  Breitkopf  &  Hartel,  Leipzig. 


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^t'lVI 


436 

Wadi  Sbabrur  284    2Q 

—  Slu'ib  136 

—  Shakif  170. 

—  esh-ShamJya  174 

—  Shebeikeh  188.  209 

—  Shebruh  336 

—  esh-Sheikh  200. 

—  Shellal  189 

—  esh-Shellaieh  159 

—  esb-Sbemali  257  ' 

—  esh-Sherira  169 

—  Shirb  207. 

—  Shib'a  261. 

—  esb-Shita  145. 
esb-Shdaiar  loo. 

—  £h«raib  195.  198.     £ 

—  Sinweifat  274 

—  ^idr  (Sinai)  189 

—  es-Sidr  120 

—  Sik  20S.      ' 

—  es-Sir  145. 

—  es-Sitt  175. 

—  es-Sld  197. 

—  Soleif  207. 

—  feudur  187. 
es-Suweimeb  J32 

—  es-Suweinit  98 

—  ?uweiriveh  207 

—  Sdwik  20S. 

—  Tabaf  209. 

—  et-Tafileh  175 

—  et-Tai  188. 

—  Tanntirin  330 

—  Tarfa  197. 

—  et-Tarr  191.  20 7. 

—  et-Tawabin  255  ' 

—  Tayyibeh  183.  208 

—  et-Teim  201.  28? 

—  et-Teisb  270 

—  et-Teleika  175. 

—  «th-ThemeJ  175 

—  Tfibas  130. 

—  Unim  Takha  194 

—  —  Teman  189. 

—  tr.seit  188. 

—  ol-Wa'Jeb  148     ' 

—  Warran  158 

—  el-Werd  14.   93 

—  Werdan  187 

—  Yahfdfeh  293 

—  Yetem  210. 

—  Yetma  214. 

—  Za'areb  259. 

—  Zabar  159 


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