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TRAVELS 


IN 


VARIOUS  COUNTRIES 


OF 


EUROPE     ASIA     AND     AFRICA 


BY 


EDWARD  DANIEL  CLARKE    LL.D. 


PART    THE     SECOND 


GREECE    EGYPT   AND    THE    HOLY   LAND 


SECTION    THE    SECOND 


PRINTED   FOR 

T.  CADELD  AND  W.  DAVIES    STRAND    LONDON 

BY    R.  WATTS    BROXBOURN    HERTS. 
MDCCCXiV. 


Hfl 


■HH 


PREFACE 


TO  THE 


SECOND  SECTION  OF  PART  THE  SECOND. 


This  further  addition  to  the  Second  Part  of  these  Travels, 
will  enable  the  Reader  to  form  a  tolerable  estimate  of  the 
probable  compass  of  the  entire  Work :  and  it  may  serve  to 
prove,  that  the  author,  if  he  should  live  to  complete  his 
undertaking,  has  not  exceeded  his  original  estimate,  in  the 
account  of  a  journey  through  forty-five  degrees  of  longitude, 
and  nearly  forty  of  latitude.  By  the  endeavours  made  to 
concentrate  the  subject,  he  may  perhaps  sometimes  have 
omitted  observations  which  a  particular  class  of  Readers 
would  have  preferred  to  those  which  have  been  inserted. 
He  has  sometimes,  for  example,  sacrificed  statistical  notices, 
that  he  might  introduce  historical  information,  where  Antient 
History  is  pre-eminently  interesting ;  and  again,  on  the 
other  hand,  he  has  purposely  omitted  much  that  he  had 
written  on  the  subject  of  Antiquities,  that  he  might  insert  a 
few  remarks  upon  the  Egyptian  and  Grecian  scenery,  and 
upon  the  manners  of  the  people.  General  observations, 
as  applied  to  the  inhabitants  of  Greece,  cannot  well 
vol.  in.  h  be 


■■■  ■■ 


An?  I  •  I  *;rftu' ; 


11  PREFACE  TO  THE  SECOND  SECTION 

be  made:  it  would  be  a  vain  undertaking  to  characterize  in 
one  view  such  a  various  population.  Throughout  every  part 
of  the  country  there  may  be  observed,  not  only  a  difference 
of  morals  and  of  habits,  but  also  peculiarities  of  religion  and 
of  language.  In  the  mixed  society  of  one  island,  the  Italian 
character  seems  to  predominate ;  in  another,  Turks  or  Albanians 
have  introduced  their  distinctions  of  manners  and  customs. 
Perhaps  this  may  be  one  of  the  causes  which,  added  to  the 
fine  climate  of  the  country,  and  to  its  diversified  landscape, 
communicate  such  a  high  degree  of  cheerfulness  during  a 
journey  or  a  voyage  in  Greece :  for  whether  the  traveller 
be  upon  its  continent,  or  visiting  its  islands,  a  succession  of 
new  objects  is  continually  presenting  itself;  and  in  places 
which  are  contiguous  in  situation,  he  may  witness  a  more 
striking  change,  both  as  to  natural  and  to  moral  objects,  than 
would  be  found  in  other  countries,  for  example  in  Russia, 
if  he  were  to  traverse  a  very  considerable  portion  of  the 
globe1.  After  all,  an  author,  in  the  arrangement  of  his 
materials,  cannot  be  supposed  capable  of  making  any  exact 
calculation,  as  to  what  his  Readers  may  deem  it  proper  for 
him  to  omit,  or  to  insert :  but  so  far  as  experience  has 
enabled  the  writer  of  these  Travels  to  determine,  he  has  endea- 
voured to  obviate  former  objections  ;  first,  by  disposing  into 
the  form  of  Notes  all  extraneous  matter,  and  all  citations ; 
and  secondly,  by  compressing  even  these,  as  much  as  possible, 

both 


(l)  "  Where'er  we  tread,  'tis  haunted,  holy  ground, 

And  one  vast  realm  of  wonder  spreads  around." 


Childe  Harold's  Pilgrimage,  p.  105.  Lond.  180.5. 


OF  PART  THE    SECOND. 

both  by  diminishing  the  size  of  the  type,  and  by  the  omission 
of  Latin  interpretations  of  Greek  authors,  which  are  often 
erroneous.  With  regard,  however,  to  the  numerous  additions 
made  to  his  Work  in  the  form  of  Notes,  it  may  be  proper  to 
state,  once  for  all,  that  they  are  exclusively  his  own,  with  the 
exception  of  the  extracts  made  from  the  Manuscript  Journals  of 
his  Friends:  and  when  these  occur,  the  name  of  the  traveller 
has  always  been  added,  to  whom  the  author  is  indebtedfor  the 
passage  inserted.  He  has  been  induced  to  mention  this  cir- 
cumstance, that  no  person  may  be  made  responsible  for  any  of 
those  errors  and  imperfections  which  belong  solely  to  himself. 
In  addition  to  the  Manuscript  Journal  of  Mr.  Walpole, 
this  part  of  the  Work  will  be  found  to  contain  also 
a  few  Extracts  made  from  the  posthumous  Papers  of  the 
late  Lieutenant-colonel  John  Squire,  of  the  corps  of 
Royal  Engineers;  who  met  with  a  melancholy  fate,  in  the 
service  of  his  country,  at  Truxillo  in  Spain,  in  the  thirty-third 
year  of  his  age.  The  death  of  Colonel  Squire  was  owing  to  a 
fever  occasioned  by  excessive  fatigue  at  the  siege  of  Badajoz. 
Never  was  the  loss  of  any  officer  more  deeply  and  sincerely 
lamented  by  his  friends  and  fellow-soldiers.  To  be  em- 
ployed in  fighting  the  battles  of  his  country  was  his  ruling 
passion  ;  and  in  fighting  them  he  had  been  nobly  engaged 
for  the  last  thirteen  years  of  his  life.  During  that  space  of 
time,  he  served  on  the  several  expeditions  to  the  Helder,  to 
Egypt,  to  South  America,  to  Sweden,  under  Sir  J.  Moore, 
to  Portugal  and  Spain,  under  the  same  general,  to  Zealand, 
and  a  second  time  to  the  Spanish  Peninsula,  where  he  ter- 
minated his  honourable  career.     The  active  mind  of  Colonel 

Squire 


ill 


MMB       fiflH 


■pMBBPI 


IV  PREFACE  TO  THE  SECOND  SECTION 

Squire  did  not  content  itself  with  the  acquirements  proper 
to  his  profession  only,  but  was  impelled  by  a  large  and 
liberal  curiosity  to  obtain  every  sort  of  useful  or  of  inter- 
esting knowledge.  In  all  the  countries  which  he  visited, 
he  kept  a  full  and  accurate  journal,  not  only  of  military 
affairs,  but  of  every  thing  else  either  curious  or  important. 
It  is  to  Colonel  Squire  that  the  literary  world  owes  the 
discovery  of  the  Inscription  upon  the  pedestal  of  Pompeys 
Pillar  near  Alexandria,  which  had  eluded  the  ingenuity  of 
all  former  travellers. 

The  Catalogue  of  the  Patmos  Library,  communicated  by 
the  Marquis  of  Sligo  ;  and  the  Remarks  made  by  Mr. 
Walpole,  not  only  upon  that  Catalogue',  but  also  upon  the 
Libraries  of  Greece ;  will,  it  is  hoped,  be  considered  as 
valuable  additions  to  this  Work.  The  author  is  desirous 
also  to  mention  his  obligation  to  the  last  of  these  Gentlemen, 
for  the  assistance  he  has  rendered  in  the  illustration  of  many  of 
the  Inscriptions.  Nor  can  he  pass  in  silence  the  advantages 
he  has  derived  from  the  Manuscript  Journal  of  his  friend  and 
companion,  Mr.  Cripps;  particularly  in  that  part  of  his  Travels 
which  relates  to  Egypt  ;  where  the  continuation  of  his  own 
narrative  was  often  interrupted  by  fatigue  or  by  illness. 

A  more 


(l)  The  original  copy  is  written  in  the  form  usually  adopted  by  the  Modern  Greeks 
in  their  cursive  style ;  abounding  in  contractions,  and  containing  many  orthographical 
errors.  If  the  Reader  only  direct  his  attention  to  the  title  of  one  Manuscript  therein 
mentioned,  namely,  that  of  Diodorus  Siculus,  he  will  be  convinced  of  the  importance 
of  making  further  inquiry  into  the  state  of  the  Patmos  Library  ;  such,  for  example, 
as  the  French  Nation  caused  to  be  instituted,  when  they  despatched  the  celcbratec 
Hellenist,  Villoison,  to  the  Monasteries  of  Mount  Alhos. 


OF  PART  THE  SECOND. 

A  more  accurate  representation  of  the  appearance  of 
antient  Inscriptions  upon  Greek  Marbles,  than  had  appeared 
in  former  books  of  travels,  it  is  presumed  has  been  adopted. 
For  this  purpose,  a  new  species  of  type  was  invented  by  the 
author,  and  used  in  former  publications.  It  has  already 
received  the  approbation  of  literary  men ;  the  Society  of 
Antiquaries  having  applied  to  the  University  of  Cambridge  for 
the  loan  of  these  types,  when  engaged  in  publishing  the  late 
Professor  Porson's  restoration  of  the  celebrated  Rosetta  In- 
scription. Considerable  attention  has  also  been  paid  towards 
making  improvement  in  the  Plates:  and  a  new  mode  of 
representing  Hieroglyphics  will  be  found  in  the  Facsimile 
of  a  Tablet  discovered  among  the  Ruins  of  Sals. 

It  may,  perhaps,  be  deemed  a  bold  acknowledgment  to 
confess,  that  the  account  of  Heliopolis,  and  of  the  Memphian 
Pyramids,  was  written  without  consulting  a  single  page  of 
Jacob  Bryant's  "  Observations  upon  the  Antient  History  of 
Egypt."  The  author  has,  however,  since  bestowed  all  the 
attention  he  could  command,  upon  that  learned  Work; 
and  the  perusal  of  it  has  made  known  to  him,  the  source  of 
Larcher's  opinion  concerning  a  Pseudo- Heliopolis  in  Arabia, 
together  with  his  reasons  for  placing  the  renowned  city  of 
that  name  in  the  Helta,  although  the  French  writer  did  not 
acknowledge  whence  they  were  derived.  Now  the  whole 
of  Larcher's  pretended  discovery,  and  of  Bryant's  most 
elaborate  dissertation,  may  be  reduced  to  a  single  query  ; 
namely,  Whether  we  are  at  liberty  to  alter  the  received  text 
of  an  antient  author,   in  such  a  manner,  as  to  transpose  the 

names 


VI  PREFACE  TO  THE  SECOND  SECTION 

names  of  two  Nomes1}  If  we  be  not  allowed  this  freedom, 
the  opinions  thereby  deduced  have  no  weight.  After  all  the 
labour  bestowed  upon  the  subject,  the  truth  must  rest  upon 
the  examination  of  a  few  brief  extracts  from  Herodotus, 
Strabo,  Ptolemy,  and  the  Itinerary  of  Antoninus,  as  com- 
pared with  the  modern  geography  and  existing  antiquities 
of  Egypt,  with  which  Bryant  was  but  little  acquainted.  It 
will  always  be  urged,  to  use  his  own  words2,  that  "  Strabo 
was  upon  the  spot,  and  very  inquisitive,  and  very  minute 
and  diligent  in  his  description;"  and  that  "  we  cannot  sup- 
pose him  to  have  been  grossly  mistaken."  Bryant  believed 
that  the  whole  space  between  the  Pelusiac  branch  of  the  Nile 
and  the  Red  Sea  was  such  a  sandy  waste,  that  the  Israelites 
never  could  have  inhabited  it :  although  he  confesses  that 
"  the  Jews,  who,  during  the  Captivity,  betook  themselves 
to  this  country,  thought  it  no  despicable  spot  to  settle  in:" 
and  although  the  present  cities  of  Old  and  New  Cairo,  by  their 
situation,  prove  that  this  district  has  now  the  preference,  he 
asserts  that  there  were  "  no  Nomes,  nor  places  of  any  repute," 
in  that  part  of  Egypt  .     "  When  they  were  occupied,"  says 

he, 

(1)  Heliopolites  and  Latopolites.  *" 

(2)  Observations  upon  Antient  History,  p.  120.  Lond.  1767.  So  also,  p.  123  (Note). 
"  Strabo's  authority  must  be  valid:  he  was  an  eye-witness  of  what  he  speaks  of;  and 
seems  to  have  been  very  inquisitive  and  exact."  Strabo  does,  however,  sometimes 
describe  countries  of  which  he  was  ignorant,  from  the  reports  and  writings  of  others; 
as  in  the  account  he  gives  of  Argolis  in  Peloponnesus,  where  he  acknowledges  this, 
and  proves  his  want  of  information,  by  affirming  that  there  existed  in  his  time  no 
remains  of  the  city  of  Mycence. 

(3)  See  Observations,  &c.  p.  109. 


OF  PART  THE  SECOND. 

he4,  "  it  was  chiefly  by  foreigners,  who  obtained  leave  of  the 
princes  of  Egypt  to  take  up  their  habitation  within  them." 
Wherefore  it  should  appear  that  the  presumed  allotment  of 
this  territory  to  the  Israelites  would  be  strictly  consistent 
with  the  antient  usages  of  the  country. 

The  positions  of  Heliopolis,  and  of  the  places  near  to  that 
city,  in  Arabia,  are  by  no  means  doubtful ;  since  they  are 
always  mentioned  together,  and  in  the  clearest  manner,  by 
Herodotus,  by  Strabo,  by  Josephus,  by  Ptolemy,  and  by  Anto- 
ninus, in  his  Itinerary.  Cellarius  places  Phacusa,  Bubastus, 
and  Heliopolis,  in  Arabia  ;  upon  the  authority  of  Ptolemy. 
Bryant  censures  him  for  so  doing ;  and  knowing  nothing  of 
the  rich  borders  of  Arabia,  accuses  him5  of  stationing  pro- 
vinces "  in  the  deserts"  The  authority  of  Cellarius  ought 
not  to  be  superseded  by  the  mere  opinion  even  of  such  a 
scholar  as  Bryant ;  especially  if  that  opinion  be  unsupported 
by  matter  of  fact ;  and  in  this  instance  the  principle  of  the 
"  malim  err  are"  is  very  admissible.  The  evidences  for  the 
position  of  Heliopolis,  as  deduced  from  Herodotus,  Strabo, 
Ptolemy,  and  the  Itinerary  of  Antoninus,  are  as  follow. 

"  To  one  going  upwards  from  Heliopolis,"  says  Herodo- 
tus', "  Egypt  is  narrow,  owing  to  the  Mountain  of  Arabia. 
In  this  mountain  are  the  quarries  whence  the  stones  were 

taken 


vn 


(4)  See  Observations,  &c.  p.  107.  (5)  Ibid.  p.  112.  Note  7. 

(6)  'Ajto  hi  'HXiovrrdXioc  avu  lovri,  (TTmyij  tart.  A'tyvirroc.  ry  p-tv  yap  Tij(. 
'Apafiirjs  upot  TrapariraTUi,  K.  r.  X.  iv  r«  <al  XiOorofilat  tvnoi,  at  ee  ra<;  irvpafiit- 
cas  KctTaTfAiiOtiffai  ro«  Iv  Mifujn.      Herodoti  Euterpe,  c.  viii.  pp.  92>  93>  Lond.  1079- 


Vlll  PREFACE  TO  THE  SECOND   SECTION 

taken  for  building  the  Pyramids  of  Memphis."  The  moun- 
tain, mentioned  by  Herodotus  in  this  passage,  is  evidently 
Mohatam:  and  Letopolis,  Latopolis,  or  Litopolis,  which 
Bryant  thinks1  derived  its  name  from  those  quarries  (q.d. 
AI0OHOAI2),  being  near  to  it,  is  mentioned  with  Heliopolis 
by  other  writers.  We  may  now  consider  the  circumstances 
of  association  under  which  Heliopolis  is  noticed  by  Strabo" : — 
"  These  places  (Phacusa  and  Phithom)  are  near  to  the  vertex 
of  the  Delta:  there  is  the  city  of  Bubastus  and  the  Bubastic 
Nome;  and  beyond  this3  the  Nome  of  Heliopolis,  where  the' 
City  of  the  Sun  is  situated."  After  describing  the  temple 
and  the  antiquities  of  the  city,  he  continues  by  giving  a 
description  of  the  Nile  beyond  the  Delta  ;  speaking  of  Libya 
as  being  upon  his  right,  and  Arabia  upon  his  left.  Then 
he  adds  this  remarkable  observation:  "  Wherefore  the  Helio- 
politan  Nome  is  in  Arabia.'"  After  this,  he  introduces  the 
Litopolitan  Nome  and  the  Babylonian  fortress,  as  next  in 
succession  to  the  Heliopolitan  upon  the  Arabian  side  of 
the  river. 

This  position  of  the  Nomes  in  Lower  Egypt  is  equally 
authorised  by  Ptolemy.  He  enumerates  them  as  they 
occurred   from   north   to   south",    after   Strabo's   method  of 

description  ; 


(0  See  Observ.  upon  Ant.  Hist.  p.  123.  Note  5.    Lond.  1767. 

(2)  Ovtoi  tT  oi  rdiroi  ir\i)(rid£ov(n  r?)  Kopvtyrj  rov  A/Xra.  Avrov  ce  teal  »/  Jiou- 
fiaarot,  jroXt?,  teal  6  Hovfiaarirtjs  vofioq'  teal  inrsp  avrov  6  'ri\io7ro\irt]<;  vofxoK. 
'EvravOa  S'  early  ij  rov  q\iov  jro'Xtt,  k.  r.  X.  Strabon.  Geog.  lib.  xvii.  p.  1141. 
edit.  Oxon.  I8O7. 

(3)  Trip  avrov.     Sic  MS.  Par.  Med.  iv.    Vid.  p.  1141.  ed.  Oxo-n. 

(4)  Vid.  Ptolem.  Geog.  lib.  iv.  p.  212.    Paris,  1546. 


OF   PART  THE  SECOND. 

description ;  giving  them  in  this  order;— "  the  Bubastic  Nome, 
and  its  metropolis  Bubastus  :  the  Heliopolitan  Nome,  and  its 
metropolis  HELiopoLisr"  These,  together  with  Aphroditopolis, 
he  places  in  Arabia". 

The  same  position   is  assigned  to   them  by  the  Itinerary 
of  Antoninus  : 

In  Arabia. 

Aphroditopolis. 

Scenas  Mandras  .   .  m.  p.  xx. 

Babylon m.  p.  xii. 

Heliu     M.  p.  xii. 

Other  evidence  to  the  same   effect,    if  necessary,  may  be 
deduced  from  Dioclorus   Siculus,  and   from  Josephus. 

In  the  observations  upon  Alexandria,  some  additional 
remarks  will  be  found  concerning  the  Soros  of  Alexander  the 
Great,  so  fortunately  added  to  the  trophies  of  our  victories  in 
Egypt,  in  the  very  moment  when  it  was  clandestinely  con- 
veying to  Paris.  Since  the  original  publication  of  the  Testimo- 
nies respecting  this  most  interesting  monument,  the  Editors  of 
the  Edinburgh  Encyclopedia  have  considered  the  evidence  as 
decisive  ;  and  have,  by  means  of  their  valuable  work,  given  it 
a  passport  to  the  notice  of  posterity,  which  the  writings  of  the 
author  were  little  likely  to  afford.  Occasionally,  indeed,  it  has 
been  urged,  that  some  unknown  personage,  belonging  to  the 

British 


IX 


(6)  'Ev  /usdopiu  'Apafltas    ical 

'A.^podiroiroXeug,  Haflv\a)v, 
'HXtovVoXt?.  Ptolem.  Geog.  lib.  iv.  p.  212.    Paris,  1546. 

VOL.   III.  C 


HH 


X  PREFACE  TO  THE  SECOND  SECTION 

British  Museum,  does  not  concur  in  the  opinion  thus  maintained 
concerning  this  remarkable  relique.  The  author  has  been 
sometimes  asked,  Why  it  is  not  called  the  Soros  of  Alexander, 
in  the  Catalogue  of  Antiquities  put  into  the  hands  of  strangers 
who  visit  that  stately  repository  ?  How  shall  he  venture  to 
answer  so  formidable  an  interrogation  ?  May  he  not  also 
propose  another,  equally  redoubtable  ?  it  is  this  :  Why  has 
even  the  historical  evidence,  touching  its  discovery,  been  so 
unaccountably  omitted  ?  Wherefore  has  the  circumstance 
been  withheld  from  notice,  that  the  Arabs  held  it  in  tradi- 
tionary veneration,  as  the  Tomb  of  Alexander  ?  The 
reason  why  it  has  not  received  the  appellation  of  a  Soros 
is  easily  explained.  The  meaning  of  this  word  had  never 
been  duly  understood1,  when  the  Tomb  arrived  in  England; 
although  this  is  precisely  the  name  given  by  Herodian  to 
the  conditory  of  Alexander's  body;  neither  had  it  then 
been  heeded,  that  what  Herodian  termed  a  Soros,  Juvenal, 
according  to  a  custom  of  the  Romans,  mentioned  by 
Augustinus2,  had  himself  alluded  to  under  the  appellation 
of  Sarcophagus3:  nay,  so  remarkable  was  the  ignorance  of  a 
few  persons  who  opposed  the  opinion  now  entertained  of  this 
Soros,  that  because  it  had,  at  a  later  period,  served  as  &  cistern 
in  Egypt,  they  doubted  its  original  sepulchral  use;  and  some 
even  ventured  to  deny,  in  direct  contradiction  of  all  history, 

that 

(1)  This  can  only  be  disproved  by  shewing  that  in  some  publication  dated  anterior 
to  1805  this  word  had  its  real  signification. 

(2)  "  Quia  enim  area  in  qua  mortuus  ponitur,  quod  omnes  jam  ^.ccpKotydyov  vocant, 
lopog  dicitur  Graece."     Augustin.  de  Civitate  Dei,  lib.  xviii.  c.  5. 

(3)  "  Sarcophugo  contcntus  erit." Juvenal. 


OF  PART  THE  SECOND. 

that  Alexander  was  buried  in  Alexandria*.  When  the  Cata- 
logue appeared,  in  which  the  Antiquities  are  enumerated, 
finding  that  it  had  not  been  deemed  advisable  to  state 
any  particulars,  even  regarding  the  modern  history  of  the 
Alexandrian  Soros,  and  that  the  remarkable  fact  of  its  being 
considered  by  the  Arabs  as  the  Tomb  of  the  Founder  of  their 
City  had  been  suppressed,  the  author  wrote  to  request,  that 
a  few  copies  of  a  Letter  he  had  addressed  to  the  Gentlemen 
of  the  British  Museum  upon  the  subject,  might  be  distri- 
buted gratis  by  the  porter  at  the  door:  but  he  was  answered, 
that  this  would  not  be  approved.  The  question  may  there- 
fore now  rest, — and,  as  it  is  humbly  conceived,  not  on  the 
test  of  authority,  but  of  evidence.  If  mere  authority  could 
have  any  weight,  the  author  might  safely  adduce  the 
opinions  which  have  fallen,  not  from  private  individuals, 
but  from  illustrious  and  renowned  men  ;  from  a  Porson, 
and  a  Parr,  and  a  Zouch5;  from  scholars  of  the  highest 
eminence  both  at  home  and  abroad ;  who  have  approved 
his  testimony,  and  have  aided  and  encouraged  him  in 
making  it  public.  It  is  upon  the  evidence  alone  that  this 
question  can  be  decided ;  and  this  is  so  simple,  and  so 
conclusive,  that  it  is  open  to  every  apprehension.  It  merely 
amounts  to  this  :  Whether  the  Cistern  held  sacred  by  the 

Arabs 

(4)  For  the  removal  of  the  body  from  Memphis  to  Alexandria,  see  Quintus  Curtius, 
Pausanias,  &c.  &c.  Kcu  tov  'A\t£dvSpov  vttcpov  ovto<;  6  Karayayuv  i\v  bk  Mep.<ptSog. 
Pausan.  Attica,  c.  vii.  p.  17-  edit.  Kuhnii.    Lips.  \6g6. 

(5)  Dr.  Zouch's  opinion  upon  this  subject  occurs  in  a  Letter  written  by  the  present  Earl 
of  Lonsdale  to  the  Rev.  J.  Satterthwaite,  of  Jesus  College,  Cambridge,  Chaplain  in 
Ordinary  to  His  Majesty ;  who  communicated  it  to  the  author.  Although  the  testimony 
of  such  a  scholar  as  Dr.  Zouch  (with  whom  the  author  had  no  personal  acquaintance) 

be 


XI 


JH^fe  IHH 


Xll  PREFACE  TO  THE  SECOND  SECTION 

Arabs  as  the  conditory  of  Alexander,  be,  or  be  not,  the  sort 
of  receptacle  which  Historians  teach  us  to  believe  did  contain 
his  body.  Any  one  who  had  read  even  such  a  compilation 
as  '  Purchas  his  Pilgrims,'  and  had  therein  found  it  stated, 
probably  from  Leo  Africanus,  that  in  Alexandria  there  "yet 
remainetk  a  little  Chappell,  wherein  they  say  that  the  high 
Prophet,  and  King  Alexander  the  Great  lies  buried,"  would 
surely  have  been  curious  to  inquire  what  was  really 
exhibited  by  the  Arabs  as  the  Tomb  of  the  founder  of  their 
city :  and  if,  during  its  examination,  this  turn  out  to  be 
nothing  of  Arabian  workmanship,  but  in  reality  the  par- 
ticular kind  of  Tomb  which  Historians  have  actually  ascribed 
to  Alexander, — a  Soros,   as  it   is   mentioned   by  Herodian1, 

covered 


be  highly  flattering,  yet  it  is  hoped  that   the  insertion  of  it  may  be  pardoned ;  as  it 

alludes  to  a  fact  of  some  importance  in  the  evidence  concerning  Alexanders  Tomb ; 

namely,  the  remarkable  allusion  made  to   the  Soros  by  Juvenal  (who  himself  visited 

Kgypt),  under  the  appellation  of  Sarcophagus. 

Lord  Lonsdale's  Letter  is  as  follows  5  it  was  dated 

"  Cottesmere,  Jan.  16.  180G. 
"  My  Dear  Sir, 

"  As  Dr.Zouch's  opinion  of  Dr.  Clarke's  history  of  the  Tomb  of  Alexander 

may  not  be  unacceptable  to  you,   I   send  you  the   following   Extract  from   a  Letter 

I  received  from  him  a  few  days  ago." 

'  I  have  been  much  gratified  with  reading  a  history  of  the  Tomb  of  Alexander  by 
Dr.  Clarke,  of  Jesus  College,  Cambridge.  Indeed  I  scarcely  laid  down  the  volume  until 
I  had  gone  through  it.  He  seems  to  have  proved  his  point ;  at  least  to  have  rendered  it 
highly  probable,  that  the  precious  monument  deposited  in  the  British  Museum  is  what 
he  thinks  it  to  be.  I  cannot  but  believe  that  Juvenal  expressly  alludes  to  this  splendid 
Tomb,  in  which  the  remains  of  the  Macedonian  Hero  were  interred  : 
'  Cum  tamen  a  figulis  muuitani  intraverit  urbem 
Sarcopkugo  contentus  erit.'- 

(1)  In  describing  the  visit  paid  to  it  by  Caracalla,  who  placed  upon  it  his  purple 
vest  5 — iTridtjice  rr)  keivov  SOPfll.  Fid.  Herodian.  Hist.  lib.  iv.  Hist.  Rom.  Script, 
at.    U.  Stebh.  1568. 


OF   PART   THE   SECOND. 

covered  with  hieroglyphics ;  being  an  inscription  in  the 
sacred  ivriting*  of  the  Priests,  by  whom  it  had  been  more 
antiently  guarded  and  revered  ; — if  this  prove  to  be  the  case, 
it  will  be  found  a  very  difficult  matter  to  prevent  the  public 
from  identifying  such  a  relique,  however  unsuitable  the 
consequence  may  be,  to  the  views  and  feelings  of  any  private 
individual,  or  set  of  individuals,  belonging  to  the  British 
Museum.  Powerful  evidence  bears  down  all  opposition; — 
it  asks  not  for  opinion ;  it  demands  assent. 

It  has  indeed  been  urged,  that  other  conditories  of  the 
same  kind  were  found  in  Alexandria;  one  of  a  similar 
description  being  now  placed  rwith  the  Alexandrian  Soros 
in  the  British  Museum  :  but  this  is  not  true:  and  even  if 
it  were,  no  other  can  lay  claim  to  the  tradition  which  so 
remarkably  distinguished  this.  The  other  antiquities  alluded 
to,  came  from  Cairo,  and  from  Upper  Egypt:  that,  in 
particular,  now  placed  by  the  side  of  this,  is  the  well-known 
Cistern  which  was  formerly  called  the  "  Lover  s  Fountain," 
and  stood  near  to  the  Castle  of  Kallat  el  Kabsh  in  Grand 
Cairo5.  Other  remains  of  the  same  nature,  less  perfectly  pre- 
served, came  from  Upper  Egypt ;  whence  they  were  brought 
by  the  French  to  Alexandria. 

It  had  been  somewhat  loosely  affirmed,  that  the  Egyptians 
always  buried  their  dead  in  an  upright  posture  :  and  the 
author,  noticing   this  egregious   error  in   his  "  Testimonies 

concerning 


Xlll 


(2)  'Tote  re  \tpo~a;  ypd/ujucKriy.     See  the  Inscription  on  the  Rosetta  Stone. 

(3)  See  a  correct  representation  of  it,  as  engraved  in  Bowyer's  Work,  entitled  Sir 
Robert  Ainslie's  Collection  of  Views  in  Egypt,  &c.  from  Drawings  by  Luigi  Mayer. 


■n 


X1Y  PREFACE  TO  THE  SECOND  SECTION 

concerning  Alexander's  Tomb,"  maintained  that  the  opinion 
could  neither  be  reconciled  with  the  appearance  of  the 
Tombs  of  the  Kings  of  Thebes,  nor  with  the  evidence 
afforded  by  the  principal  Pyramid  at  Memphis1.  Since  that 
publication  appeared,  Mr.  Hamilton  has  incontestably  proved 
that  the  affirmation  was  loose  indeed,  for  that  the  Egyptians 
never  buried  their  dead  in  an  upright  posture2.  A  writer,  how- 
ever, in  one  of  the  Monthly  Journals3,  attacked  the  author  for 
having  disputed,  although  upon  his  own  ocular  demonstra- 
tion, the  upright  position  of  the  bodies.  '«  Surely,"  said  he, 
"  it  will  surprise  the  reader  to  learn,  that  one  of  the  prin- 
cipal writers  by  whom  the  fact  above  alluded  to  has  so 
loosely  been  affirmed,  was  Herodotus."  It  might,  indeed, 
surprise  any  reader,  if  this  were  true :  but  the  assertion  is 
groundless,  and  altogether  founded  upon  the  most  glaring 
misconception  of  the  text  of  that  author ;  as  it  is  not  only 
admitted  by  every  scholar,  but  decidedly  manifested  by  the 
appearance  of  the  bodies  in  the  sepulchres  of  Egypt.  Hero- 
dotus does  not  say  that  they  were  placed  upright  in  the 
tombs,  but  in  the  private  houses  of  the  Egyptians4,  after  the 

persons 


(1)  Tomb  of  Alexander.     Introd.  p.  7.     Camb.1805. 

(2)  See  p.  165,  Note  (8),  of  this  Volume.  See  also  Hamilton's  JEgyptiaca,  p.  3 1 7. 
Lond.  I8O9.  "  It  was  evident,"  says  Mr.  Hamilton,  "  that  the  bodies  had  been  placed 
horizontally,  not  upright ;  consequently  the  passage  of  Silius  Italicus,  quoted  to  assist 
the  contrary  supposition,  must  have  alluded  to  the  posture  in  which  the  deceased  were 
kept,  while  yet  retained  in  the  houses  of  their  relations."  The  same  is  maintained  by 
Pauw:   Philos.Diss.  vol.  II.  p.3g.    Lond.  1795. 

(3)  See  the  Critical  Review  for  July  1805.  vol.  V.  No.  3.  p.  276. 

(4)  See  Pauw,  Philos.  Dissert,  vol.  II.  p.  39.   Lond.  1795. 


OF  PART  THE  SECOND. 


XV 


persons  employed  to  embalm  the  body  had  delivered  it  into 
the  care  of  the  relatives.  It  is  well  known  that  the 
Egyptians  frequently  kept  the  bodies  of  their  dead,  after  the 
funeral  rites  were  performed,  for  a  long  time  in  this  manner 
in  their  dwellings.  Sometimes  they  made  them  to  be 
present  at  their  feasts5.  And  hence  it  is,  that  Herodotus, 
alluding  to  this  practice,  says,  the  relations  take  the  body 
home,  and  place  it  in  a  chamber  appropriated  for  its  recep- 
tion, "  setting  it  upright  against  the  ivall6."  Upon  these 
last  words,  the  absurd  notion  was  founded  of  its  upright 
position  in  the  sepulchres  of  the  country  ;  a  notion  entirely 
exploded,  and  contradicted  by  the  evidence  of  the  sepulchres 
themselves. 

Upon  reviewing  the  observations  made  upon  the  Grecian 
Theatres,  the  author  is  aware  that  they  might  have  been 
more  collectively  disposed,  instead  of  being  dispersed  in 
different  parts  of  his  Work:  but  the  business  of  a  traveller 
requires,  that  he  should  register  facts,  rather  than  write 
dissertations  :  if  his  remarks  be  deemed  worth  preserving, 
others  will  not  be  wanted,  hereafter,  to  collect  the  scattered 
materials,  and  give  them  a  more  connected  form. 


(5) 


-"  Et  kjnensis  exsanguem  baud  separat  umbram." 

Sil.  Ital.  lib.  13. 


(6)  'IvrdvTtc  opQov  7rpo<;  Tolyov.    Herodot.  Hist.  lib.  ii.  c.  86.  p.  120.   Lond.l67Q. 


Camlridge,  May  24th,  1814. 


HH^^^HHHHI 


■■■»■■ 


THE    PRINCIPAL 


COPPER-PLATES,  MAPS,  AND  CHARTS, 


IN  THIS  VOLUME. 


TO  SERVE  AS  DIRECTIONS  TO  THE  BINDEK. 


No.  1.  A  View  of  Pompey's  Pillar  near  Alexandria ;  shewing  the  mode  by 
which  some  British  Sailors  rirst  gained  an  ascent  to  the  Capital  of  the 
Column  5  from  a  drawing  made  upon  the  spot  by  Fauvel,  etched 
by  Letitia  Byrne To  face  the  Title. 

2.  The  Obelisk  of  Heliopolis  near  Cairo ;  from  a  drawing  made  upon  the 

spot  by    the  Author,  etched  by  L.   Byrne     -         -         To  face  page  102 

3.  Entrance  to  the  principal  Pyramid  of  Djiza ;  altered  from  Denon,  and 

etched  by  L.  Byrne  ------         r         _         135 

-J.  Hieroglyphic  Tablet,  as  it  was  discovered  at  Saccara,  closing  the  mouth 
of  one  of  the  Catacombs  or  Mummy-Pits ;  from  a  design  by  the 
Author,    etched  by  Elizabeth  Byrne  -         -         -         -  172 

5.  Lares,  Beads,  Amulets,  &c.  found  at  Saccara  j  designed  from  the  Originals 

by  R.  B.  Harraden,    etched  by  L.  Byrne  -         -         -         -         176 

6.  Antiquities  found  at  Sais;  from  a  drawing  by  Harraden,  etched  by  L.  Byrne,  214 

7.  Fac-Simile  of  an  entire  Hieroglyphic  Tablet,  as  found  at  Sais  in  the 

Delta 3    taken  with  printer's  ink  by  an  impression  upon  the  original 
Stone,    and  afterwards  etched  by  L.  Byrne         -  220 

8.  Inverted  position  of  Hieroglyphics,  as  seen  upon  the  four  sides  of  the 

square  mass  of  breccia  beneath  the  Pedestal  of  Pompey's  Pillar ;  from  a 
sketch  by  the  author,  etched  by  L.  Byrne       -  260 

9.  A  Plan  of  the  Catacombs  of  Necropolis  at  Alexandria,  as  surveyed  by  the 

French  j    engraved   by  Neele  from  a  drawing  made  by  the  Reverend 

George  Wilkins 286 

Vol.  III.  ^ 


COPPER-PLATES,  MAPS,  AND  CHARTS. 


11. 


12. 


No.  10.  View  of  the  Island  of  Rhodes,  as  taken  by  the  Author  in  latitude  36°.  10'. 
from  the  deck  of  a  Turkish  Frigate,  distant  about  twenty  miles  from 
Lindo ;    etched  by   L.Byrne  -  To  face  p.  316 

Entrance  to  the  Bay  of  Marmorice,  bearing  north,  with  a  View  of  the 
Coast  of  Caria,  opposite  Rhodes ;  from  a  sketch  by  the  Author, 
etched  by  L.  Byrne 320 

Head-Lands  visible  at  sea  ;  in  one  plate,  viz. 

1.  Amorgos  at  sun-set  Oct.  12,  bearing  s.  w.  and  by  w.  distant 
thirty  miles. 

2.  Boccaze  of  Samos,  bearing  n.  e.  and  by  e.  distant  fifteen  miles. 

3.  Boccaze  between  Andros  and  Tenos,  bearing  n.  e.  and  by  e. 
distant  ten  miles ;  from  outlines  by  the  Author,  etched  by 
L.  Byrne  -__-_-__         366 

Portal  of  a  Temple  of  Bacchus  near  Naxos,  with  a  View  of  the  Town  and 
Harbour  of  Naxos;  designed  by  H.  Wright,  Esq.  from  a  sketch  made 
by  the   Author,  and  etched   by  E.  Byrne         -  398 

The  Parthenon  at  Athens ;  from  a  drawing  made  upon  the  spot  by 
Preaux,  etched  by  E.  Byrne     -------         488 

The  Erectheum  at  Athens;  from  a  drawing  by  Preaux,  etched  by  L.  Byrne,  49S 

The  Odeum  of  Regilla,  at  Athens,  built  by  Herodes  Atticus;  with  the 
Acropolis  and  Parthenon;  also  a  distant  View  of  the  Temple  of  Jupiter 
Olympius,  the  Choragic  Pillars,  &c. ;  from  a  drawing  by  Preaux, 
etched  by  L.  Byrne         --.._-._         506 

Monument  of  Philopappus,  near  Athens ;  from  a  drawing  by  Preaux, 
etched  by  E.  Byrne  --------         544 

Magnificent  Remains  of  the  Temple  of  Jupiter  Olympius,  at  Athens,  with 
apart  of  Mount  Hymetlus;  from  a  drawing  made  upon  the  spot  by 
Preaux,  etched  by  L.  Byrne     --._-_.         554 

Temple  of  Jupiter  Olympius,  as  seen  in  the  opposite  direction,  looking 
towards  Athens;  with  a  distant  View  of  the  Theatre  and  Torso  of 
Bacchus,  the  Choragic  Pillars,  the  Acropolis,  Parthenon,  &c. ;  from 
a  drawing  made  upon  the  spot  by  Preaux,  etched  by  E.  Byrne  -  556 
An  Athenian  Lady  in  the  dress  commonly  worn ;  engraved  by  Pollard,  5QQ 
Master  of  the  Caique  in  which  the  Author  navigated  the  Archipelago,  as 
taken  from  the  life  by  Theodore  the  Calmuck.  ;  (being  a  widower, 
he  wears  his  beard  as  a  mark  of  mourning,  according  to  the  custom 
of  his  island ;)  engraved   by  Cooper         -----         59s 


13. 

14. 

15. 
16. 


17. 


18. 


1(). 


20. 
21. 


COPPER-PLATES,  MAPS,  AND  CHARTS. 


Xo.  22. 


23. 


24. 

25. 

26. 
27- 

28. 


Part  of  a  terra-cotta  Cornice  and  Frieze  found  in  the  Hieron  of  iEculapius 
in  Epidauria  ;  from  a  drawing  by  W.  Wilkins,  Senr.  Esq.  etched  by 
E.Byrne To  face  p.  622 

Terra-Cotta  Vessels  found  in  the  Sepulchres  of  Peloponnesus;  designed 
from  the  Originals   by  Angelica   Clarke,  etched  by  E.  Byrne        -       664 

Remains  of  the  Temple  of  Jupiter  at  Nemea  ;  from  a  drawing  made 
upon  the  spot  by  Preaux,  etched   by  E.Byrne         -  714 

Temple  of  Octavia  at   Corinth  ;   from  a  drawing  by  Preaux,   etched  by 
E.  Byrne 736 

An   Albanian   of    Greece,    taken  from   the  life ;  engraved  by  Pollard,  762 

View  of  Eleusis,  as  it  appears  in  the  Via  Sacra  from  the  Defile  of 
Daphne;   from   a   sketch  made  by  the  Author,  etched  by  L.  Byrne,  771 

General  Outline  of  the  Route         -         -      N.  B.  for  the  end  of  the  Volume. 


LIST    OF   THE   VIGNETTES. 

No.   1.     Remains    of     an    Edifice   with    "  pointed    arches,"   at  Acre;    from 
Le  Bruyn,  etched  by  E.  Byrne      ----.__ 

2.  Arabs  raising  water  from  the  Nile  into  their  plantations ;  from   Denon, 

etched  by  L.  Byrne         _---.  ... 

3.  Tombs  of  the  Sultans  near  Cairo;    from  Denon,  etched  by  L.  Byrne     - 

4.  Entrance  to  the  Amnis  Trajanus  from  the  Nile;    from  Denon,  etched 

by  L.  Byrne        ----__.___ 

5.  Remarkable  form  of  one  of  the  Pyramids  of  Saccara  ;  as  designed  by  the 

Author,  etched  by  L.  Byrne        _-_-... 

6.  Antient  Egyptian  Sepulchre  having  the  hemispherical  form  of  the  Primeval 

Mound ;  from  a  sketch  made  by  the  Author,   etched  by  L.  Byrne     - 

7.  Transition  from  the  shape  of  the  Primeval  Mound,  in  antient  sepulchres, 

to  the    more  artificial  structure  of   the  Pyramids ;  designed  by  the 
Author,    engraved  on  wood  by  Austin  - 

8.  Antient  Peribolus  of  Sais,  formed  by  high  mounds  of  earth,  as  seen  from 

the  Nile ;  from  a  sketch  by  the  Author,  etched  by  L.  Byrne    - 

9.  View  of  the  Obelisks   called   Cleopatra's  Needles ;  from  Denon,  etched 

by  L.  Byrne      ---.__..-.- 
10.     Land  around  Aboukir,  and  a  bird's-eye  View  of  the  Town;  from  Denon, 
etched  by  L.  Byrne       ......... 


Page 

1 

28 
68 

96 
151 
15CJ 

160 

198 
236 
298 


s&Bm 


LIST  OF  THE  VIGNETTES. 

Page 

No.    11.      Map  of  Patmos;  altered  from  Tournefort,  engraved  by  Neele  -         334 

12.  Map  of  Paros,  Antiparos,  &c.  from  the  Voyage  Pittoresque  de  la  Grcce  ; 

engraved  by  Neele  _-__..._         3*^ 

13.  The  first  sight  of  Athens,  seven  leagues  distant,  as  presented  to  persons 

sailing  from  Sunium  to  the  Pirceeus  ,•   sketched  by  the  Author,   etched 

by  L.  Byrne  _--__-.__         424 

14.  Plan   of  Athens,  from  a  drawing  by  W.  Wilkins,  Jun.  Esq.  engraved  by 

Neele 462 

15.  Charon,  with  Mercury,  conducting  a  Female  Soul  to  the  Shades ;  designed 

from  an    antient  Scarabaean  Intaglio  by  Angelica  Clarke,  engraved 
by  Pollard 5lg 

16.  View  from  the  Parthenon  at  sunset ;  etched  by  L.  Byrne,  from  a  drawing 

made  by  the  Author     ----_.__         $jq 

17.  Headlands  viewed  from  the  summit  of  Hymettus,  bearing  South  and  by 

West ;  a  Wood-cut  by  Austin,  after  the  Author's  outline  done  upon 
the  spot         ---.---.._         58I 

18.  Buined  Structure  now  occupying  the  site  of  the  Temple  of  Apollo,  upon 

Mount  Cynortium,  in  the  Hieron  of  iEsculapius,  in  Epidauria  3  from  a 
drawing  made  by  the  Author  upon  the  spot,  etched  by  L.  Byrne  -         59/ 

19.  Propylaea  of  Mycenae ;  from  a   drawing  by  Sir  William  Gell,  etched  by 

E.  Byrne 653 

20.  Silver  Medal  of  Stymphalus  in  Arcadia  j  from  a  drawing  by  J.  A.  Carr, 

Jun.  Esq.   engraved  by  Cooper  -._.__         709 

21.  Map    of  the  Isthmus  of  Corinth ;    shewing   the   site  of   the  Isthmian 

solemnities,  the  Antient  Vallum,  the  Canal  of  Nero,  &c.  ;     from  an 
original  survey  made  by  the  Author,  engraved  by  Mutlow     -       -         74 1 


\  The  Binder  is  cautioned,  in  cutting  the  edges,  to  beware  of  injuring 

the  Plates. 


GENERAL  STATEMENT  OF  CONTENTS. 


PART  II.     SECT.  II. 


PREFACE  to  the  Second  Section  of  Part  the  Second. 
Catalogue  of  Plates,  Maps,  and  Charts.     List  of  the  Vignettes. 

REMARKS  ON  THE  LIBRARIES  OF  GREECE 
BY   THE  REV.  It.  WALPOLE,  M.J. 

JVith  an  account  of  Me  Catalogue  of  Books  now  preserved  in  the  Monastery  of 
Patmos,   as  it  was  copied  for  the  Marsuis  of  Sligo. 

CHAP.  I. 

VOYAGE  FROM  SYRIA  TO  EGYPT. 
P.  1. 

The  Romulus  makes  preparation  for  sailing — The  Author  takes   leave  of  Djezzar 

Further  Account  of  Acre — Existence  of  the  Pointed  Arch  in  the  Holy  Land,  and 

elsewhere  in  the  East — Anecdote  of  Dear e,  an  English  Sculptor — Voyage  to  Evypt 

Accident  which  befel  the  Romulus — Arrival  at  Aboukir — The  Braakel  receives  Orders 
to  convoy  a  Squadron  to  Marseilles — French  Prisoners — Author  narrowly  escapes 
being  conveyed  to  France — Discovery  of  the  Worship  of  Astarolh  upon  Mount  Libanus 
— Dangerous  Passage  of  the  Bar  at  the  Mouth  of  the  Nile — Fort  St.  Julian — State 
of  Affairs  inRosctta — Price  of  Provisions — Manufacture  of  Coffee — Curious  Remains 
of  Pointed  Arches — Probable  Consequence  of  the  Interruption  of  the  Mecca  Pilgrimage 
— Exhibition  of  the  Psylli,  or  Serpent-Eaters. 

CHAP.  II. 

VOYAGE  UP  THE  NILE  TO  GRAND  CAIRO. 

P.  28. 

Example  afforded  by   a   Naval    Officer — Inaccuracy   in    the  Maps  of  Egypt — Triple 

Harvest  of  the  Delta — Mode  of  raising   Water  from  the  Nile — Summer   Habits  of 

the   Egyptian    Arabs — Ficus    Sycamorus — Etesian    Winds — Motubis — Dancing 

Women — Debe — Sindion  and  Derrul — Turkish   Cavalry — Arab  Customs — Foua 

— Rachmanie — Description   of  the   Country — Diseases — Facility  of  visiting  Upper 

Egypt — Koum    Scheriff — Amrus — Birds — Singular  Animal  Appearance — Plants 

— El  Buredgiat — Remarkable    Phcenomenon — Tumblers — Abundance   of  Corn — 

Southern  Point  of  the  Delta — Arrival  at   Bulac — View  of  the  Pyramids — Visit  to 

the  Reis  Eff'endi— House  of  the  French  Institute— Jewel  Market — Interior  of  Cairo 

— Jugglers — Trees — Incense — Gum  Arabic — Plagues  of  Egypt — Statistics  of  Cairo — 

British  Army  from  India — Dinner  given  by   the   Commander-in-chief — Discovery 

made  by   Brahmins    in   Upper  Egypt — Examination    of    an  Abyssinian  concerning 

Bruce  s  Travels — Fidelity  of  that  Traveller's  Observations  confirmed. 


mm 


GENERAL  STATEMENT  OF  CONTENTS. 

CHAP.  III. 

GRAND     CAIRO. 

P.  68. 
Arabic  Language,  as  spoken  in  Egypt— Dress  of  (he  Women  in  Cairo — State  of  Society 
— Houses — Gardens — Ceremony  of  Ululation  in  honour  of  the  Dead — Exaggerated 
descriptions  of  the  Country— Supposed  Sacrifice  of  a  Virgin  to  the  Nile— Booh  Market 
— Antient  Medals  in  circulation  —  Custom  of  the  Arabs  in  passing  a  Bridge  — 
Appearance  of  Women  in  the  Streets — Enormities  practised  by  the  Turks— Extortions 
— Discovery  of  a  curious  Manuscript  —  Citadel  —  Pointed  Arches  —  Interesting 
Inscription— Mosaic  Painting— Present  State  of  the  Art— Joseph's  Well—  Origin 
of  the  Citadel — View  from  the  Ramparts. 

CHAP.  IV. 

HELIOPOL1S,  AND  THE  PYRAMIDS  OF  DJIZA. 
P.  96. 

Passage  along  the  Canal— Visit  to  Heliopolis— Maiarea— Pillar  of  On—Style  of  the 
Hieroglyphics — Intelligence  concerning  them — their  Archetypes— Cnw  ansata — its 
meaning  explained— Of  the  Hieralpha  and  the  Testudo—  Other  Symbols— Kircher— 
History  of  the  Obelisk— Minerals  of  the  Arabian  Desert— Doubtful  origin  of  Egyptian 
Jasper— Petrifactions— Dates  & 'corn— Almehs— Of 'the  Alleluia  &  cry  oflajnentativ,; 
—Voyage  to  the  Pyramids— Appearance  presented  by  the  principal  Pyramid—  Objects 
seen  from  the  Summit— nature  of  the  Limestone  used  in  its  construction— Extraneous 
Fossil  described  by  Strabo— Mortar— Labours  of  t lie  French  Army— Theft  committed 
by  an  Arab— Visit  to  the  interior  of  the  larger  Pyramid— Notions  entertained  of  its 
violation— Its  passages— Observation  at  the  Well— Examination  of  some  inferior 
Channels— Chamber  of  the  Sepulchre— The  Soros— its  demolition  attempted— -The 
Sphinx— its  surface  found  to  be  painted— Discovery  of  an  Antient  Inscription- 
Custom  of  painting  antient  Statues — Extract  from  Pauw. 


CHAP.  V. 

PYRAMIDS  OF  SACCARA. 
P.  151. 
Illustrious  Travellers  who  have  visited  the  Pyramids— Audience  of  the  Vizier—  Voyage 
to  Saccdra— Nocturnal  Festivities  of  an  Arab  Village— Appearance  of  the  Country 
to  the  South  of  Cairo— lnd\go(cva— Situation  of  Memphis— Tumulus  seen  among  the 
Pyramids— The  most  antient  Sepulchres  not  pyramidal— Village  of  Saccdra— 
Difference  between  the  Pyramids  of  Saccdra  and  those  of  Djiza— Descent  into  the 
Catacombs— Notion  founded  on  a  passage  in  Herodotus— Evidence  for  the  Horizontal 

Position 


GENERAL  STATEMENT  OF  CONTENTS. 

Position  of  the  Bodies — Difficulty  of  ascertaining  the  truth — Repository  of  Embalmed 
Birds — Cause  of  their  Interment — Hieroglyphic  Tablet — Antelope — Antiquities  found 
by  the  Arabs — Horses  of  the  Country — Theft  delected — History  of  the  Pyramids — 
Manner  of  the  Investigation — /lge  of  those  Structures — Their  Sepulchral  Origin — 
Possible  Cause  of  the  violation  of  the  principal  Pyramid — Historical  Evidence 
concerning  the  building  of  Pyramids  in  Egypt — Further  view  of  the  subject — Hermetic 
St  idee — Mexican  Pyramids. 

CHAP.  VI. 

GRAND  CAIRO  TO  ROSETTA. 
P.  198. 
Monastery  of  the  Propagandists — Marriage  Procession — Visit  to  the  Reis  Ejj'endi — 
First  Intelligence  concerning  the  Alexandrian  Soros — Preparation  for  Departure 
— Arrival  of  the  Covering  for  the  Caaba  at  Mecca — Escape  of  four  Ladies — Passage 
down  the  Nile — Chemical  Analysis  of  the  Water  and  Mud  of  the  River  — Remains  <f 
the  City  of  Skis — Antiquities — Bronze  Reliques — Jralriform  Sceptre  of  the  Priests 
and  Kings  of  Egypt — Hieroglyphic  Tablet — Enumeration  of  the  Archetypes  — 
Curious  Torso  of  an  antient  Statue — Triple  Hierogram  with  the  Symbol  of  the  Cross 
— its  meaning  explained — Mahallet  Abouali  —  Berinbal — Ovens  for  hatching  Chickens 
— Tombs  at  Massora  Shibrecki — Birds — Arrival  at  Rosetta — Mr.  Hammer  sails 
for  England — State  of  Rosetta  at  this  season  of  the  year. 

CHAP.  VII. 

ROSETTA  TO  ALEXANDRIA. 
P.  236. 
Voyage  to  Aboukir — Visit  to  Lord  Keith — Journey  to  Alexandria — Arrival  at  the 
British  camp — Communication  with  Lord  Hutchinson — Entrance  into  the  French 
garrison — Wretched  state  of  the  inhabitants — Visit  from  a  party  of  Merchants- 
Discovery  of  the  Tomb  of  Alexander — Circumstances  of  its  removal  by  the  French. 
— Its  situation  upon  the  Author's  arrival — Internal  evidence  of  its  authenticity  — 
Other  antiquities  collected  by  the  French— Cleopatra's  Needles — Pompey's  Pillar 
— Discovery  of  the  Inscription — Sepulchral  origin  of  the  Column — Manner  of  its 
support — Proof  that  it  was  erected  by  the  Romans — Restoration  of  the  legend  upon 
the  pedestal — Events  that  occurred  after  the  death  of  Pompey  —  Shrine  constructed 
by  Coesar  — Testimony  of  the  Arabian  Historians — Hadrian's  monument  to  his 
horse — Traditionary  name  of  the  Pillar  founded  on  historical  evidence — Interview 
with  Menou— Surrender  of  the  Rosetta  Tablet — Intercourse  between  the  armies — 
French  Institute — Catacombs  of  Necropolis — Serapeum  o/Racotis — Of  Hades  and 
of  Amnion — Cause  of  such  elaborate  sepulchres — Descent  into  the  Cryptae — 
Remarkable  Symbol — Imperfect  accounts  of  the  Alexandrian  Antiquities — Conduct 
of  the  Capudan  Pasha. 


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GENERAL  STATEMENT  OF  CONTENTS 

CHAP.    VIII. 

ALEXANDRIA    TO    COS. 
P.  298. 
Preparations  for  leaving  Egypt — Journey  to  Aboukir — Cities  of  Nicopolis,   Taposiris 
Parva,   and  Canopus—  Uncertainty  of  their   topography — Thonis — Changes  which 
have  taken  place  upon  the  coast — Heraclium — Aboukir  Bay — Turkish  Frigate  — 
Persons  composing  her  Creiv — Discipline  at  Sea — Bay  of  Finica  — Meteoric  Phe- 
nomena — Eastern  coast  of  Rhodes  — Lindus  — Southern   shores  of  Asia  Minor  — 
Bay    of  Marmora — Rhodes — Cos — Town    of  Slanchio — Situation   of  the   French 
Consul— Antient  sculpture — Inscriptions — Asclepieum — Votive  offerings — Singular 
article  of  the  Mahometan  Law — Population,  commerce,  and  produce  of  Cos. 

CHAP.  IX. 

COS    TO    P  ATM  OS. 

P.  334. 
Messenger  from  the  Vizier — Botanical  discoveries — Casiot  vessel — Antient  custom  oj 
singing  Vesper s  —  Leria  and  Lepsia — Arrival  at  Patmos — Critical  situation  of 
a  part  of  the  French  army — Monastery  of  St.  John — Library — Ignorance  of  the 
Monks — Manuscripts — Discovery  of  the  Patmos  Plato — Other  valuable  Works — 
Manuscript  in  the  hand-writing  oj  Alexius  Comnenus — State  of  the  island — Antient 
Medals — Extensive  prospect — Holy  Grotto — Dinner  given  by  the  French  Officers 
— Barthelemy — Women  of  the  island — Bells — Stratagem  for  obtaining  the  Greek 
Manuscripts — Fruitless  attempt  to  leave  the  island—  View  of  Samos — Icaria — Western 
port  of  Patmos — Geological  phenomena — Plants  and  animals — Marble  Cippi  — 
Departure  from  Patmos — Prognostics  of  Greek  mariners. 

CHAP.  X. 

PATMOS    TO    PAROS. 
P.  377- 
Gale  of  wind— Vessel  driven  to  the  south  of  Naxos—Panormo— Independent  Shepherds 
—Appearance  of  the  island— Minerals— Naxian  Boccaze—Town  of  Naxos — Manu- 
scripts—Inhabitants— Population—Antiquities  —Inscriptions  —Sculpture  —Medals- 
Gems— Colossal  Statue— Temple  of  Bacchus— Other  Ruins— Smeriglio— Arrival  at 
Paros—?avechia— Castle— Inscriptions— S  hip  stranded— Antiparos— Grotto— its  possible 

origin — mode  of  descent — description  of  the  interior — Nature   of  the  Stalactites 

manner  of  their  deposition — Paradoxical  Phenomena — Crystallization  of  Alabaster 
— Arragonite  —  Visit  of  the  French  Ambassador  —  Oliaros— Antient  Quarries  of 
Parian  Marble — Marpessus — Cause  of  the  prevalence  of  Parian  Marble  in  Grecian 
Sculpture — Marvellous  skill  of  the  Antients  in  working  the  Quarries — Bas-relief— 
Explanation  of  the  Inscription— Origin  of  the  work— Evidence  it  affords— Theory  of 
Crystallization. 


GENERAL  STATEMENT  OF  CONTENTS. 

CHAP.  XL 

PAROS    TO    ATHENS. 

P.  424. 
Voyage  to  Syros—  Affecting  Interview— Syra— Plants— Remains  of  Antient  Customs- 
Gems  and  medals— State  of  the  Island— Voyage  to  Gyams—Hydriots — Wretched 
Condition  of  Jura — Voyage  to  Z'ia—Carthcea — Ravages  committed  ly  the  Russians 
—Ruins  of  Ioulis— Medah —Hospitality  of  the  modern  Greeks— Antient  Dances — 
Produce  of  Zi'a— Minerals. — The  Author  sails  for  Athens — View  near  the  mouth  of 
the  Sinus  Saronicus — S uni um  —Temple  of  Minerva  Sunias— Anecdote  of  a  Naval 
Officer— Yatrode'ia— Other  Islands  in  the  Saronic  Gulph—Calanrea — Albanians— 
Elimbo— First  Sight  of  Athens— Zoster  Promontory— Doubtful  Story  of  Minerva's 
Statue — Arrival  at  the  Piraeeus — Approach  to  Athens. 


CHAP.  XII. 

ATHENS. 
P.  462. 
Origin  of  the  fabulous  Contest  between  Neptune  and  Minerva — Antient   Sepulchral 
monument — Excavations  at  Athens — View  of  the  Cecropian  Citadel— Funereal  Aspect 
of  the  City — Objects  in  the  perspective — State  of  the  Xn\\qxi\\\es— Interesting  Relique 

— Remarks  upon  entering  Athens — Guilletiere — Ascent  of  the  Acropolis Adytum  of 

Pan — 'Isg«    of  the  Greeks — Portable  Shrines— Statue  of  Pan— Celebrated  Artist 

Spoliation  of  the  Temples — Comparison  between  the  Grecian  and  Roman  Buildings 

Athenian,  Posidonian,  and  iEginetan  Architecture— Cause  of  the  Injury  sustained 
in  the  Sculpture  of  the  Parthenon—  Splendid  Representation  of  the  Panathenaea— 
Description  of  the  Work— The  Cothurnus,  and  Petasus  or  Pileus — Practice  of 
gilding  and  painting  Statues— Marbles  used  in  the  Acropolis —Singular  Construction 
of  the  Erectheum—  Of  the  Prytaneum  — Temples  of  Pandrosus  and  Minerva  Polias 
Of  the  Olive,  and  Well— Propylaea— Walls  of  the  Acropolis  —Odeum  of  Regilla— 
General  description  of  the  Theatres  of  Greece — Areopagus — Temple  of  Theseus. 


CHAP.  XIII. 

ATHENS. 
P.  516. 
Temple  of  the  Winds— Unknown  Structure  of  the  Corinthian  Order— The  Bazar— 
Population  and  Trade  of  Athens— State  of  the  Arts— Manufacture  of  Pictures 
—Monochrome  Painting  of  the  Antients  —Terra-  Cot  las— Origin  of  Painting  and 
Pottery  among  the  Greeks  —  Medals  and  Gems— Explanation  of  the  Amphora  as 
a  symbol  upon  Athenian  Coins— Ptolemasum— Antient  Marbles— Theseum— Grave 


Vol.  III. 


of 


■  ■ 

■■■■■Mi 


■■■ 


GENERAL  STATEMENT  OF  CONTENTS. 

of  Tweddell— Description  of  the  Temple— Areopagus —Piraman  Gate—Ynyx— 
Monument  on  the  Museum— Antient  Walls— -Theatre  and  Cave  of  Bacchus— 
Monument  of  Thrasyllus— CAomgz'c  Pillars— Remarkable  Inscription—  Origin  of  the 
Crypt— Ice  Plant  in  its  native  state—  Arch  of  Hadrian— its  origin— when  erected— 
Temple  of  Jupiter  Oiympius— Discordant  accounts  of  this  building— reasons  for  the 
name  assigned  to  it— Ilissus— Fountain  Callirhoe—  False  notions  entertained  of  the 
river— Stadium  Panathenaicum— Sepulchre  of  Herodes— Hadrian's  Reservoir— Mount 
Anchesmus — View  from  the  summit. 

CHAP.  XIV. 

ATHENS. 
P.  568. 
Excavations — Great  Antiquity  of  the  Athenian  JVells— Curious  Inscription  upon  a  Terra- 
cotta Lamp — Excursion  to  Hymettus — Temple  of  Diana — Monastery — Visit  to  the 
summit  of  the  mountain — Plants — Panoramic  Survey  of  the   Country — Return  to 

Athens Singular  Adventure  that  bejel  the  Author — Description  of  the  Ceremonies  of 

the  Bath,  as  practised  by  the  Turkish  and  Grecian  Women — Further  Observations  in 
the  Acropolis — Inscriptions — Specimen  q/Cadmaean  Characters — Additional  remarks 
upon  the  Parthenon — Effect  of  Sunset  behind  the  mountains  of  Peloponnesus. 


CHAP.  XV. 

PELOPONNESUS. 
P.  697. 

Departure  from  Athens  for  the  Peloponnessus — Extraordinary  talents  of  a  Calmuck 
Artist — Further  account  of  the  Piraeeus — the  "  long  walls" — Tomb  o/'Themistocles — 
its  situation — remains  of  this  monument — Objects  visible  in  passing  the  Gulph — 
jEgina — Temple  of  Jupiter  Panhellenius — Antiquities  near  to  the  port — Anchestri 
Isle — Ignorance  of  the  Pilot — Epiada  —  Greek  Medals — Arbutus  Andrachne — 
Appearance  of  the  Country — Liguiio — Conak,  or  inn — Coroni — Cathedra  of  a  Greek 
Theatre —  Hieron — Mountains — Temple  of  iEscnlapius — Stadium — Architectural 
Terra-cottas — Temple  of  the  Coryphaean  Diana — Temple  of  Apollo — Circular  edifice 
— Theatre  of  Polycletus — Epidaurian  serpent — Aspect  of  the  Coilon — Perfect  state 
of  the  structure — dimensions  and  detail  of  the  parts — Journey  to  Nauplia — Lissa — 
Dorian  and  Egyptian  antiquities — Arachnaeus  Mons — Cyclopea — Nauplia — House 
of  the  Consul — Turkish  Gazette — Public  rejoicings  —  Athletae — Pyrrhica — Popu- 
lation— Air — Commerce — Gipsies — Characteristic  features  of  Grecian  cities — Tiryns 
— Celtic  and  Phoenician  architecture — Origin  of  the  Cyclopean  style — History  of 
Tiryns — character  of  its  inhabitants, 


GENERAL  STATEMENT  OF  CONTENTS. 

CHAP.  XVI. 

PELOPONNESUS. 
P.  653. 
Further  inquiry  into  the  Origin  of Tiryns— Road  to  Argos— River  Inachus— Plants  and 
minerals — Argos — Terra-cotta  Vases— Ignorance  of  their  Sepulchral  use — Hecate's 
Supper— Lectisternium— Probable  cause  of  depositing  Earthen  Vessels  in  Sepulchres 
—Origin  of  the  custom— Population  of  Argos— Antiquities— Theatre— Hier on  of 
Venus — Diras — Cyclopia — Alcyonian  Lake — Oracular  Shrine— Other  remains  of 
the  city — Character  of  the  antient  Argives—View  of  the  Argive  Plain — Fabulous 
Contest  between  Neptune  and  Juno— Hieron  of  Ceres  Mysias — Antiquity  of  fictile 
materials  in  building — Mycenae — State  of  the  Ruins — Extraordinary  Sepulchre — 
not  the  Treasury  of  Atreus — Heroum  of  Perseus — Sophocles — internal  evidence  of 
his  having  visited  the  spot — of  the  Aciftx  and  Yiqt-TtvXaict — Tomb  of  Agamemnon — 
Interior  of  the  Tumulus  —  Enormous  lintel— Use  of  the  triangular  cavity  above  the 
entrance — Inner  chaynber— Leonine  Gate  —  Dimensions  and  description  of  the 
Propylaea-  Mythological  Symbols—  Consecrated  Gates— Of  the  Pylagorae  —  Egyp- 
tian characteristics — Worship  of  the  Sun— Walls  of  Mycenae. 

CHAP.  XVII. 

*,  PELOPONNESUS. 
P.  709- 
Journey  to  Nemea— Defile  o/Tretus—  Cave  of  the  Nemeaean  Lion — Fountain  of  Ar- 
chemorus  —  Temple  of  the  Nemeaean  Jupiter — Albanians— Monument  q/'Lycurgus— 
Nemecean  River— Apesas  —  Sicyonian  Plain — Sicy on  —  Theatre — Prospect  from  the 
Coilon—  Stadium  —  Temple  of  Bacchus—  Other  Antiquities—  Medals— Paved  Way 
—  Fertility  of  the  land—  Corinth  —  Fountain  of  the  Nymph  Pirene— Sisypheum — 
Temple  of  Octavia—  Visit  to  the  Governor  —  Odeum  —  Climate  of  Corinth. 

CHAP.  XVIII. 

PELOPONNESUS    AND    ATTICA. 
P.  741. 
Visit  to  the  Isthmus—  Remains  of  the  Antient    Vallum— Canal  of  Nero — Lechaeum  — 
Cinerary  receptacles  in   the  rocks — Remarkable  Tumulus— Acrocorinthus  — ^cewi 
to   the   Citadel—  Hiera  —  Prospect   from   the    Summit—  Hexamillia— Discovery  of 
the  Town  of  Isthmus— Port    Schcenus—  Temple  of  Neptune— Theatre— Stadium 
— Sepulchre  of  Palaemon—  Trees  from  which  Victors  in  the  Isthmia  were  crowned- 
Extraordinary  mart  for   Grecian  Medals— Dress  of  the  Levant   Consuls — Pandcvan 
Horn  —  Cenchreae  —  Bath   of  Helen  —  Convangee  —  Cromyon  —  Manners  of  the 
Peasants—  Scironian  Defile—  Boundary  between   Peloponnesus  and  Hellas—  KAKH 
2KAAA  —  Entrance  of  Hellas—  Causes   of  the  celebrity   of  Megara—  The  modern 
town  —  Inscriptions— Journey  to  Eleusis—  Kerata  —  Eleusinian  Plain  —  Acropolis  of 

Eleusis — 


H vt  !'«-;-t#-;c  it  'hi  iti- m .Ji  Af I 


GENERAL  STATEMENT  OF  CONTENTS. 

Eleusis—  Mar  lie  Torso — The  Flowery  Well— Aqueduct  —Temple  of  Ceres—  Statue 
■  of  the  Goddess— Superstition  of  the  Inhabitants  —  Inscription — Sudden  departure 
for  Athens— Via  Sacra—  Fast  extent  of  Antient  Thrace  —  The  Rheti— Eleusinian 
Cephissus  —  Salt  Lake—  Defile  of  Daphne—  The  rock  called  Pcecile—  Temple  of  Venus 
— Monastery  of  Daph?ie—ti\eron  of  Apollo—  View  of  Athens  at  sunset—  Athenian 
Cephissus  —  Site  of  the  Academy  —  Arrival  at  Athens—  Negotiation  with  the 
Waiwode  —  Return  to  Eleusis  —  Method  devised  for  removing  the  Statue  of  Ceres  — 
Difficulties  encountered — Success  of  the  undertaking  —  Further  account  of  Eleusis  — 
Long  Walls— Of  the  Rharian  and  Thriasian  Plains— Temples  of  Triptolemus,  of 
Neptune,  and  of  Diana  Propylaea  —  Temple  of  Ceres— Port  of  Eleusis— Antient 
Theatre  —  Acropolis  —  Return  to  Athens. 


ADDITIONAL  NOTES p.  794. 

Appendix,  No.  I. 
p.  799. 

Extract  from  Colonel  Squire's  MS.  Journal;   giving  an  account  of  Caiffa,  Acre,  tsfc. 
and  of  his  Interviews  with  Djezzar  Pasha. 

No.  II. 

P.  806. 

On  the  Discovery  by  Colonel  Capper  of  the  Existence  of  Antient  Pagan  Superstitions  in 

Mount  Libanus,  particularly  those  which  relate  to  the  Worship  of  Venus. 

No.  III. 

P.  811. 

A  Catalogue  of  Books  in  the  Hellenic  and  in  the  Romaic  Languages,  printed  at  Venice,  at 

the  Press  of  Theodosius  ofYanina,  with  their  prices  in  Venetian  Liri  and  Soldi. 

No.  IV. 

P.  815. 
Temperature  of  the  Atmosphere,  according   to    Diurnal   Observation  made  during  the 
Journey  ;  with  a  corresponding  Statement  of  the  Temperature  in  England  during  the 
same  period. 

No.  V. 

P.  820. 
Names  of  Places  visited  in  the  Author's  Route. 


REMARKS  on  the  LIBRARIES  of  GREECE, 

BY  THE  REV.  R.  WALPOLE,  M.  A. 


WITH    AN   ACCOUNT  OF  THE 


CATALOGUE  of  BOOKS  now  preserved  in  the  MONASTERY  of  PATMOS, 


AS  IT  WAS  COPIED  FOR  THE  MARQUIS  OF  SL1GO. 


These  Remarks  of  Mr.  Walpole  being  too  long  to  be  inserted  in  the  Notes,  among  the  Extracts 
from  hi*  MS.  Journal,  the  Author  has  prefixed  them  as  an  appropriate  Introduction  to  this 
Volume. 

Ihe  names  of  Nicholas  the  Fifth,  of  Francis  the  First,  of 
some  of  the  Medici  family,  of  Bessarion,  Bushech ',  and 
Peiresc,  are  held  in  just  estimation  by  the  lovers  of  antient 
literature.  By  their  means,  the  Libraries  of  Europe  have 
been  furnished  with  great  numbers  of  valuable  Manuscripts, 
collected  with  cost  and  labour,  in  different  parts  of  the 
Levant.  The  first  of  these  persons  laid  the  foundation  of  the 
Vatican  Library,  and  supplied  it  with  many  Manuscripts 
from  Greece.  From  the  same  country,  Francis  the  First,  at 
the  exhortation  of  Budceus,  procured  many  also;  particularly 
from  Mount  Athos.  The  exertions  of  the  Medicean  family 
are  familiar  to  every  one.  Bessarion,  who  died  in  1483,  had 
made  a  collection  of  Manuscripts  at  the  expense  of  3o,ooo 

crowns ; 


(l)  In   this  manner   he  writes   his  own  name,  always.     Lamb.  1.  i.  99.  &  1.  xi. 
addit.  p.  1007. 


H     ^n    lilffllHHi 


(2) 


REMARKS  ON  THE  LIBRARIES  OF  GREECE. 

crowns  ;  and  his  own  account  of  his  exertions  in  the  cause 
of  Greek  letters  is  worthy  of  notice'.  The  Manuscripts 
purchased  by  Busbeck,  during  his  embassy,  are  known  to 
every  scholar,  from  the  account  given  of  them  by  Lambecius. 
Many  also  were  obtained  in  the  East  by  those  whom 
Peiresc2  had  sent  out;  they  visited  Cyprus,  Egypt,  and 
Constantinople  ;  and  in  the  first  of  these  places,  portions  of 
Polybius  and  Nicolaus  Damascenus  were  found3. 

There  is  no  doubt  that  Constantinople  and  Athos  have 
contributed  the  greatest  number  of  the  Manuscripts  we 
possess  in  different  parts  of  Europe.  There  were  monas- 
teries full  of  learned  men  at  Byzantium,  to  a  late  period  ; 
and  every  monastery  had  its  library.  The  Turks,  on  their 
conquest,  did  not  occasion  that  indiscriminate  destruction 
which  idle  declamation  has  sometimes  imputed  to  them. 
Mahomet  the  Second  secured  the  Library  of  the  Greek 
Emperors,   which  was  preserved  by   his    successors,   until 

it 


(1)  "  Caeteriim,  non  tarn  magnum  numerum  librorum  quam  optimos  et  excellentes, 
deque  singulis  solummodo  unum  exemplum  studui  colligere,  unde  evenit,  ut  ferd 
omnia  volumina  quae  in  ruinis  universes  Grasciae  remanserant  integra,  et  quae  vix  alibi 
reperiuntur,  congesserim."     Cam.  Op.  Sub.  Cent.  3. 

(2)  In  1631.     See  his  Life  by  Gassendi. 

(3)  As  many  Manuscripts  had  been  collected,  at  vast  expense,  in  Greece  for  the 
Library  at  Buda  (destroyed  by  the  Turks  in  1256),  we  ought  not  to  omit  mentioning 
it.  Alexander  Brassicanus  had  seen  in  it  the  whole  of  Hyperides  with  Scholia,  the 
Works  of  many  of  the  Greek  Fathers,  and  of  the  Classical  Writers.  From  this  Library 
issued  parts  of  Polybius  and  Diodorus  Siculus.  A  Manuscript  of  Heliodorus,  from 
which  was  taken  the  first  edition  of  the  JEthiopics,  was  found  by  a  soldier,  and  brought 
to  Vincentius  Obsopceus :  it  belonged  to  this  Library.  Neander  thus  speaks  of  the  collec- 
tion :  "  Ex  media  Graecia  inaestimandis  sumptibus  emerat  Matthias  Corvinus  rex." 
Epist.  p.  10. 


REMARKS  ON  THE  LIBRARIES  OF  GREECE. 

it  was  destroyed  by  Amurat  IV.4  At  Byzantium,  Constantine 
Lascaris  transcribed  many  of  those  works  which  were  after- 
wards placed  in  the  Madrid  Library.  In  this  city  were 
procured  those  Manuscripts  which  were  left  to  the  Escurial 
Library  by  Hartado  de  Mendoza;  and  which  had  been 
presented  to  him  by  Soliman  the  Second.  Possevin  has  given 
partial  Catalogues  of  some  of  the  Libraries  at  Constan- 
tinople ;  and  a  traveller  in  15Q7  mentions  a  valuable 
collection  which  he  had  seen  in  that  city5. 

With  respect  to  Athos,  we  find  that  two  hundred  Manu- 
scripts are  deposited  in  one  library  alone6,  brought  from 
the  monasteries  on  the  mountain  ;  and  a  great  part  of  those 
at  Moscow7  had  been  collected  by  the  Monk  Arscnhis  in 
Athos,  at  the  suggestion  of  the  Patriarch  Nicon. 

We  must  add  Thessaly,  Chios,  Corfu,  Crete,  Cyprus, 
Chalce  (the  island  in  the  Propontis),  Rhodes,  and  Kpidauria, 
as  places  which  have  supplied  some  Manuscripts8.  We 
should  have  had  much  valuable  intelligence  concerning  the 
libraries  in  the  monasteries  of  Thessalv,  if  the  life  of 
Professor  Biornstahl  had  been  prolonged.  He  had  visited 
all  of  them;  and  had  resided  many  days  at  Triccala,  for  the 
express  purpose  of   copying  a  Greek  Manuscript  belonging 

to  a  monastery.     Biornstahl  was  attacked  by  a  fever  at  the 

foot 


(3) 


(4)  Hist    de  I'Acad.  IV.     Jortin's  E.  H.  vol.  V. 

(5)  G.  Dousa.    It.  Const.  71. 

(6)  Praef.  to  the  Catalogue  of  the  Coislen.  Library. 

(7)  In  the  Library  of  the  Holy  Synod. 

(8)  See  the  following  references:     Diar.  Ital.  of  Morttfaucon;    Fabric.    Bib.  Gr. 
7.241;  Fabrotus  Not.  Basilicorumj  Bib.  Coislen.  p.  178 ;  Crush"  Turco-Graec.  p  498. 


(4) 


REMARKS  ON  THE  LIBRARIES  03?  GREECE. 

foot  of  Mount  Olympus :  here  he  was  obliged  to  continue 
ten  days,  without  medical  assistance;  and  was  then  taken 
to  Salonica,  where  he  died,  in  July  1779  . 

Notwithstanding  our  acquisitions  are  already  great,  we 
should  not  intermit  our  researches  in  the  Levant.  Many 
Manuscripts  may  be  saved  by  them  from  destruction. 
"  I  myself,"  says  Dr.  Covell,  "  have  seen  vast  heaps  of 
Manuscripts  (for  I  never  found  them  on  shelves,  or  in  good 
order)  of  the  Fathers  and  other  learned  authors,  in  the 
monasteries  at  Mount  Athos,  and  elsewhere,  all  covered 
over  with  dust  and  dirt,  and  many  of  them  rotted  and 
spoiled2."  An  inquiry  should  be  made  into  the  truth  of 
what  was  stated  to  Hemsterhusius  by  some  Greeks3,  "  that 
part  of  the  Comedies  of  Menander  was  still  in  existence." 
Application  might  be  made  to  the  Greek  Nobles  of  the 
Phanar,  many  of  whom  are  versed  in  Antient  Greek,  and 
who  are  probably  the  possessors  of  some  valuable  Manu- 
scripts. Parts  of  the  First  Book  of  the  Demonstratio  Evan- 
gelica  of  Eusebius  were  printed  by  Fabricius 4  from  a  Manu- 
script belonging  to  Prince  Mavrocordato ;  and  a  copy  of  the 
Greek  Orators,  now  in  England,  was  the  property  of  a 
Greek  Noble. 

It 


(1)  From  a  Writer  of  the  date  1557,  we  have  an  important  notice  respecting  a 
library  on  Mount  Olympus  :  "  Dicitur  adhuc  hodie  in  Olympo  Monte  Monasterium 
reliquum  esse  thesauro  optimorum  librorum  dives  ac  celebre."  Oral,  de  Stud.  ret. 
Phil,  inter  Melanc.  Declam. 

(2)  Villoison's  account  of  the  destruction  of  Manuscripts  at  Patmos  may  be  con- 
sulted.    Proleg.  to  Homer. 

(3)  Jul.  Pollux,  p.  1272,  Note. 

(4)  Delectus  Argumentorum. 


REMARKS  ON  THE  LIBRARIES  OF  GREECE. 

It  may  be  reasonably  supposed,  that  many  Manuscripts 
in  Greece  have  experienced  the  treatment  which  works   of 
the  same  sort  have  met  with  in  other  countries.     Poggius, 
we  are  told,  found,  while   he  was   at  the  Council  of  Con- 
stance, a  Manuscript  of  Quintilian  on  the  table  of  a  pickling- 
shop.    Masson  met  with  one  of  Agobardus  in  the  hands   of 
a   bookbinder,  who  was  about  to  use  it  for  the  back  of  a 
book5:   and  one   of  Asconius  was  about  to  be  employed  for 
the  same  purpose.     Musculus  found6,  in  the  roof  of  a  Bene- 
dictine monastery,  some  of  the  works  of  Cicero,  and  the 
whole   of  Ovid.     Numbers   of  Manuscripts   in    Greece  are 
irrecoverably  lost  to  us,  either  by  design  or  accident;  and 
of  those,  which  we   may  hereafter  meet  with,  we  cannot 
suppose  all  w^ill  prove  to  be  of  equal  value7 : 

Yet  if  we  meet  with  only  few  of  which  we  shall  be  able  to 
say,  as  Casaubon*  once  said  to  J.  Scaligcr,  that  they  are 
"  TToXuriitrira,,  et  vere  %gv<rov  avra|/a,"  the  trouble  of  research 
will  be  well  requited9. 

A  List 


(5) 


(5)  Naude,  121. 

(6)  "  Accidit,  ut  aliquando  sub  ipso  aedium  tecto  confusam  dissolutarum  membra- 
narum  congeriem  Musculus  offenderit,"  &c.     M.  Adamus  in  Vita  Musculi. 

(7)  Those  which  have  an  appearance  of  antiquity  in  the  writing,  are  not  always  the 
most  antient.  The  Monks  employed  persons  who  were  copyists  by  profession  ;  men 
who  not  only  repaired  the  titles  of  Manuscripts,  but  were  dexterous  enough  to  copy  the 
antient  characters.  "  The  Manuscripts  written  in  Lombard  letters,"  says  Simon,  "  are 
not  always  from  a  hand  as  antient  as  the  time  of  Lombard  writing.  The  same  may  be 
said  of  other  works." 

(8)  On  receiving  a  Manuscript  of  the  unpublished  Mechanics  of  Athenaeus. 

(9)  Some  exertions  on  the  part  of  the  Government  would,  without  doubt,  be 
attended  with  success.     Let  us  hear  what  was  done  in  France,  so  late  as  in  the  time  of 

VOL.  III.  /  Fleur>': 


(6) 


REMARKS  ON  THE  LIBRARIES  OF  GREECE. 

A  List  of  Theological  Manuscripts  in  the  Library  of  Patmos 
has  been  given  by  Possevin1;  their  number  amounting, 
according  to  his  statement,  only  to  fifty- five.  The  present 
Catalogue,  containing  the  titles  of  ninety- two  Manuscripts 
and  about  four  hundred  printed  volumes,  and  of  which  an 
account  is  here  subjoined,  by  no  means  precludes  the  neces- 
sity of  further  examination.  The  Greek  compiler  of  it  has 
not  stated  any  circumstance  relating  to  the  Manuscripts, 
by  which  we  can  form  an  estimate  of  their  value:  he  gives 
no  information  respecting  the  form  of  the  letters  or 
that  of  the  spirits,  or  any  of  those  subjects  which  would 
lead  us  to  a  knowledge  of  their  respective  dates. 

There  is  one  Manuscript  mentioned  in  it,  concerning  which 
it  is  impossible  not  to  feel  more  than  common  curiosity: 
it  is  one  of  Diodorus  Siculus.  By  an  accurate  inspection 
of  it,  we  should  learn  whether  the  hopes,  which  have  been 
more  than  once  entertained  of  the  existence  of  the  lost 
books  of  that  historian,  are  in  this  instance  also  to  be  dis- 
appointed9. H.  Stephanus  had  heard  that  the  forty  books  of 
Diodorus  were  in  Sicily.  This  report  arose  probably  from 
Co?istanti?ie  Lascaris  having  said  in  Sicily,  that  he  had  seen 
all  these  books  in  the  Imperial  Library  at  Constantinople. 
Lascaris  fled  from  this  city  at  the  capture  of  it  by  the  Turks. 

In 


Fleury :  "Ila  envoie  dans  le  Levant  quelques  savans  qui  ea  sont  revenus  avec  une 
riche  moisson  de  Manuscrits  ou  Grecs  ou  d'autres  langues  Orientales."  Bib.  Rais. 
Juillet,  1739. 

(1)  See  the  Appar.  Sacr. 

(2)  Photius,  in  the  ninth  century,  perused  entire  Diodorus  Siculus. 


REMARKS  ON  THE  LIBRARIES  OF  GREECE. 

In  the  turbulence  and  confusion  of  that  period,  the  entire 
copy  to  which  he  referred  might  have  been  lost.  "  Deum 
immortalem,"  says  Scaliger,  "  quanta  jactura  historian  facta 
est  amissione  librorum  illius  Bibliothecae,  praesertim  quinque 
illorum  qui  sequebantur  post  quintum8." 


(7) 


CATALOGUE  OF    BOOKS5 

IN.  THE  PATMOS  LIBRARY. 

A. 

Aristophanes.     Tliree  copies. 

Ammonius 4 .     Two  copies . 

Aristotle.     Various  copies. 

Apollonius  Rhodius. 

Exposition  of  John  Zonaras5   on  the  xaweg  ccvcctrrcccri^oi  of  John  of 

Damascus. 
Anastasius   of    Sinai.       His    Questions   and  Answers6.     MS. 
vA<rp,a  ourpuruv,  with  an   Exposition  (perhaps  by  M.  Psellus). 

See  Lamb.  lib.  hi.  p.  77  • 
Arrian. 

Anthology  of  Epigrams. 
'  AX&%uvdgov  rov  gf  ccTroppqrav  y^ocf^pbotriKr}. 
*  A^y/is  fcoci   oclriocg   <xi£i   rm   dvo  IxKXjjoriuv ;  i.  e.   of   the   Greek   and 

Roman  Church. 
iEsop. 


(2)  In  Euseb.  Chron.  cid.iocccclxvii. 

(3)  It  has  not  been  thought  necessary  to  copy  the  title  of  every  one  of  the  printed 
books  mentioned  in  the  Catalogue:  the  names  of  all  the  Manuscripts  are  faithfully 
transcribed. 

(4)  Ammonius,  son  of  Hermias,    master  of  John  Philopcnus. 

(5)  Flourished  about  1120.     See  Mlatius  de  Libris  Eccles.  Grcecorum.  Paris,   1646. 

(6)  Died  599.     See  Lamb.  Comm.  1.  v.  p.  92. 


v*.y       ^^^H 


(8) 


CATALOGUE  OF  BOOKS 

' '  Avdo'koylcc  X&^tcov   diot<pog&>v.      One  volume. 

JE&m. 

Panoplia1  Dogmatica  of  Euthymius  Zigabenus.    MS. 

' AnoarroXiKo)  kou  orvvodixo)  zavoveg*' 

Athanasius. 

Athenseus,  Deipnosoph. 

' AXe%<xvdgov  'lovdcazot. 

' AfAccXQsiug  xsgotg. 

Appian. 

' Af/,<piXo%iovs ,    Msdodiov,   xcu  '  Avdgsou  Kgqrrig,  ru  zv^ktko^vcc. 

' ' Avrooviov  Ka,rri(pogov  ygct{/,{ACLrtx,ri. 

' Agi@[A?irizrig  ffvvoTTtzri  Igfirjvsict,  MsraAavou   (Balanus). 

'  A\e%oc,vopov. 

'  Avflog  yjzplrm  . 

'  AffQctkrig  odqyta,  rqg  xura,  Xgurrov  ^ix?jg  £oong. 

' AkoXovMcx,5  rrjg  ccyictg  AtKursgivrig. 

iEschines. 
' AZvpav  wegi. 

Asncv    laTPiKOV. 

Aoccpt,  ZoigvixaCiov. 

' AdoXepfcicx,  <piXofoog. 

' AXs^ccv^iiccg  vrsgiygoMpri. 

'AvcMrxsvri  rtjg  rov  Bogrtgov  fiiQ'hov.    (Refutation  of  a  Work  of  Voltaire.) 

Agpovia,  UQoyQu.tyix.ri. 


(1)  See,  for  an  account  of  this  work,  Lambecius,  1.  iii.  p.  168. 

(2)  Lamb.  1.  v.  p.  230. 

(3)  Amphilochius,   bishop  of  Iconium,   died  3p3.     Andrew,  archbishop  of  Crete, 
died  720. 

(4)  See  Crusius,  Turco-Graec.  222.  and  Du  Cange,  App.  ad  Gloss.  Gr.  in  v.  TgeAo?. 

(5)  "  Pieces  et  officia."     A<x««g/»»  (Catherine);  sometimes  aspirated;  at  other  times 
with  a  lenis,  as  in  Du  Cange,  i.  1140  3  who  also  gives  Hcecatherina,    in    Index    Auct. 

(6)  Born   at   Amida    (Diarhehr) ;    and   wrote  between   the   years   540   and  550. 
Fab.  ix.  230. 


IN  THE  PATMOS  LIBRARY. 


(9) 


B. 

Basil.     Copies  of  different  parts  of  his  Works. 

~S>rio-(rccpiojvog  ypotUj^otriKri. 

The  Logic  of  Blemmides7.     MS. 

BaXcra^fO?8  l^riy^o-ig  rcuv  hpcov  kuvovuv.      MS. 

Lexicon  of  Phavorinus. 

Lives  of  Saints. 

A  book  called  the  Pastoral  Flute,  avXog  rotpmxos. 

I$i£\iov  KuXovf/Avov  ©yzctpcig. 

A  small  MS.  of  Prayers. 

BXa^oj. 

BovXyapiug    ccffocvru,. 

r. 

Gregory  of  Nazianzum.     Various  copies.. 

Holy  Scripture. 

TspcMrtftov  (BXoffcov  elg  ro\  (Aerzapoy.oyMct.     MS. 

Galen. 

Gregory  of  Nyssa. 

Ta.Qoiri'h1"  <pi\<x,}ii\(pitt.g  itip\  (r^itr^dTHtuv.      MS. 

Tpriyopiov  "  Kopetriov  xccro\  Aotrivuv.      MS. 

Treatises  of  Gerasimus. 

Harmony  of  Scripture. 

Topoiovy   on  o  TLu7ra,g     kou  o  'Nlucipid  strip  o  'AvriwurTog-      MS. 

Grammar  of  Gaza13. 


(7)  Blemmides  lived  in  the  middle  of  the  thirteenth  century.     His  logic  was  pub- 
lished in  1605,  by  JVegelin. 

(8)  Theodore  Balsamon,  of  the  twelfth  century.     Cave,   Hist.  Lit.  5g6. 

(9)  Of  Thcophylact.      "Achridis  in  Bulgaria  archiepiscopus   10/0  clarusj  quern 
inde  Bulgarium  vocant."     Fab.  B.  G.  vii.  586. 

(10)  Gabriel   Severus,   metropolitan  of  Philadelphia ;    "  a  bare-faced  Metousiast." 
Covell.   Rise  of  Transulstantiation. 

(11)  Coresius,  a  friend  of  Goar.     Euchol.  678. 

(12)  "That  the  Pope  and  Mahomet  are  the  Antichrist."     n*V*s,   "the  Pope;" 
irct7rcis,   "  a  priest." 

(13)  On  which  Erasmus  read  Lectures  at  Cambridge. 


%F£'?™^ 


m 


(10) 


CATALOGUE  OF  BOOKS 


A. 


Demosthenes. 

Dio,  and  Herodian. 

Psalms  of  David. 

Af^oca-KccXioci  '  dictcpogaiv  ug  ret  zctrcc  Kvgia,x,yjv. 

Diogenes  Laertius. 

AictfActvrri  pvtriov.      (sic.) 

Dositheus. 

Dionysius  the  Areopagite.     MS. 

Aiccrccyoc)  yctfAou  ^ccfCOV/jX   -ttcctpioc^ov. 

Ai7iyri<rig  {Aspizri    rqg    7ra,Xociclg     'nrropicov  (sic),   acti  Tporu(ng  <p<Xo<ro<p&u 

vtt\p    (perhaps   vep))   rov  Seopot^ov  'Wgwoov.      MS. 
Old  and  New  Testament. 

Aoyuctrixov*  'lajccvvov  JS&xkou   KamrravrivO'TroXesug. 
The  Grammar  of  Daniel. 


Gospels. 

Eustathius. 

Epiphanius. 

Epictetus. 

Euclid. 

Etymologicon. 

Eusebius. 

Encyclopaedia.     Four  volumes. 

Selections  from  different  Fathers. 

Euchologium. 

'EZoftoXoyrircigiov3.      MS. 

Tract  on  Baptism. 

TerpasvuyyiXiov 4. 

Exposition  of  the  Apocalypse. 


(1)  Instructions  respecting  the  Lord's  Day. 

(2)  Veccus,  or  Beccus,  patriarch  of  Constantinople. 

(3)  A  Form  of  Confession,  and  Direction  to  Penitents.     Covell,  260. 

(4)  See  Du  Cange  in  v.  Ei)*yysA«>v. 


IN  THE  PATMOS  LIBRARY. 


(11) 


Eogro'ko'yiCL. 

Euripides. 

'E-TTitrxz^tg  'TTveufjcccriKov  ir^oc,  cco-fovy.   Visit  of  a  Confessor  to  a  sick  person. 


Zonaras. 

Hesiod. 

Herodian. 

Herodotus. 


Z. 

H. 

0. 


Themistius8,  wsgi  <pv(rtx,ng. 

Theodoret. 

Theophrastus. 

Theocritus. 

Theodorus  Ptochoprodromus6. 

Theodorus's   (abbot  of  Studium7)  Catechetical  Discourses. 

Theophylact. 

Ozctrpov  koKitizov. 

Theotoki. 


Thomas  Magister 


John  Chrysostom. 

Isidore's8  (of  Damiata)  Letters. 

Isocrates. 

John  of  Damascus9. 


I. 


(5)  Born  in  317,  in  Paphlagonia. 

(6)  Perhaps  one  of  the  Poems  of  this  Writer  (see  V'dl.  Anec.  Gr.  ii.  243),  or  his 
Exposition  of  Sacred  Hymns.  See  Lamb.  1.  v.  p.  277.  He  lived  in  the  beginning 
of  the  twelfth  century. 

(7)  A  monastery  at  Constantinople.  Theodore  was  born  in  759.  "  II  passe  pour 
un  des  grands  Saints  de  ce  siecle-la  parmi  Messieurs  les  Imaginaires  ;  qu'il  me  soit 
permis  de  me  servir  de  ce  terme,  mille  fois  plus  dou.\  que  celui  d'Iconolatres."  Bayle. 
Rep.  des  Lettres,  Mars  1686. 

(8)  "  One  of  the  most  valuable  men  of  the  fifth  century."     Jortin,  E.  H.  iv.  1 13, 

(9)  Died  750.     The  last  of  the  Greek  Fathers. 


■■■■■■■■■■■■ 


VaT-^ 


(12) 


CATALOGUE  OF  BOOKS 

Justin  (trrogixov). 

John  Philoponus,  n^  noo-poTTOi'iag1. 
The  same,  etg  ra  'AvocXvrixoc. 
Justin  Martyr. 

Justinian,   Kocvovsg  rcuv  kyiw    Awotrro'kav. 
John  Stobseus. 
Julius  Pollux. 

Other  Treatises  of  John  Philoponus. 
Isaac2,   bishop  of  Nineveh;   ra,  evgefovrcc,  a,<rxr,Tixa.. 
Josephus. 

'lo-fAoiriX3  zoctoc.     MS.      "  Against  Mahometanism." 
John  of  Damascus. 

la/ocvvov*  (Tj/oXoMrrtxov  jyyovfisvov   2<va   ogovg. 
Hippocrates.     Aphorisms. 

K. 
YLogvlictkiag  ireg)  -^vy/ig. 
The  Logic  of  the  same. 
Cyril. 
Coresius 5. 

Kctroixovfyjvov  atokoyici  xccto,  Aarimv, 
Callimachus. 

KXeofjuri^ovg  xvxXtxri  Seagtct. 
YLugtaxodgofuov  . 


(1)  See  the  remark  of  Lambecius  on  the  title  of  this  work,  lib.  i.  p.  139.  The 
Alexandrine  Grammarian  nourished  in  the  early  part  of  the  seventh  century  after 
Christ.  Vossius  gives  a  different  date  :  De  Philosoph.  Sec.  c.  17.  The  name  of  John 
Philoponus  was  afterwards  assumed  by  Le  Clerc. 

(2)  Lived  in  the  sixth  century. 

(3)  Cantacusenus  wrote,  in  1360,  a  work  on  this  subject. 

(4)  John  Climacus,  called  Scholasticus.  This  is  probably  his  Life,  written  by 
Daniel,  monk  of  Raith. 

(5)  A  Constantinopolitan  divine ;  and  friend  of  Goar.     Euch.QjQ. 
(<5)  See  Du  Cange,  Gloss.  Graec.  p.  771.  1. 


IN  THE  PATMOS  LIBRARY. 


(13) 


KuXXiygaCpia,. 
Clemens  Alexandrinus. 


A. 


Liturgies. 

Lucian. 

Lexica. 

Treatises  against  the  Roman  Church. 

M. 
Macarius.     Homilies. 

Michael  Psellus7  e\g  rc\  per  utyv  enact.      MS. 
Macarius.     Various  treatises. 
Meletius  on  the  power  of  the  Pope. 

MsX?7    ftO:rjTpiWV    iVViO,. 

Melissa 8. 

Merewgaiv  ft  eg)    eyyeiglhiov. 

M<x,vot<r<r?i  rav  qXiccdov  lyxcupiov  etg  'AXefav^ov  'Y-v^Xavr^.    Encomium 

on  Prince  Ypsilante. 
Maximus  Planudes. 
Matthew  Blastares9. 
Meletius.  Geography. 


N. 


Nectarius 10. 
Nicephorus  Gregoras. 

NofAlXOV     (3ct(Tl'At%0V.         MS. 

Noftoxuvoveg '  . 


O. 


CEcumenius. 

Olympiodorus   etg   rot,    fjuerecogcc    rov   ' AgiCToreXovg    'Oftrigoxivrga,12   xou 
xevrgwveg. 

(7)  Of  the  eleventh  century. 

(8)  Antonius  Melissa  lived  about  760.     Fab.  Bib.  Grcec.  ix.  744.  "  a  studio  colligendi 
MiXio-o-a.,  sive  Apis,  dictus  est." 

(9)  Of  the  fourteenth  century. 

(10)  Patria  Cretensis,  defunctus  anno  1665.     Fab.  ix,  310. 

(11)  Lamb.  1.  vi.  p.  51. 

(12)  Homerici  centones. 

VOL.  III.  g 


(14)  CATALOGUE  OF  BOOKS 

Acts  of  Synods. 

Plutarch. 

Pausanias. 

Pindar. 

HoXefAog  kvsvu,utixo$. 

Polyeenus. 

TloirjToov  rcov  7rccXcaorocrco)i    yeugytzoi,   fiovzoXixu,    xcti    yvvfAtxJc . 

Uocregixov.      MS. 


Ylerpoc  (rxccvdccXov. 
"PrirogtKri    ^pcoutyov. 

'PaXivov  rofAoi — 15. 


P. 


2. 


Catenae  Patrum  on  the  Psalms  and  Matthew. 

Sophocles. 

Suidas. 

HvfAewv  QetrtrccXoviK'/jg. 
Simplicius. 

^vvooizog   vofjiog. 

'SqfAStwo'eig     didcty/av.     MS. 

^vvTccyfAct*  pcuroc  cc^v^cov. 

^vfjuCpuvKX,  rtjg  ygcttpjig. 

Hlvvs<riov  tirurroXugiov. 

Catena  Patrum  on  the  Octateuch. 

T. 

Tcc^ycc     T7\g  'Tturriag  Trig    Yapaizrig  iKK'kri<ricig. 


(1)  Notes  on  Homilies, 

(2)  Respecting  this   controversy  (concerning  unleavened  bread),  see   the  note  in 
Lamb.  I.  iii.  p.  65. 

(3)  Propugnaculum  Fidei.     Fab.  R.  G.  viii.  86.     It  was  edited  at  Paris  in  1658. 

(4)  Perhaps,  TW<*ov  t>?s  yosA>i<r<«<rT<>c>is  uzohavfa'ccs  &c.     "  The  order  of   reading  the 
service."     Lamb.  I.  v.  285. 


IN  THE  PATMOS  LIBRARY. 
0>. 


(15) 


Photius. 
Philo  Judseus. 


X. 


XgiHrocvQcv  Nora^a. 

~Kgurro(pogov  zy%e(gi($io»,   on  the  Procession  of  the  Holy  Spirit. 

Chrysostom  on  the  Psalms. 

Volumes  relating  to  the  Psalms. 

a 

QzsXXov   ZCCTCC. 


KATAAOrOS  rSv  \v  BEMBPANAI2  6  BIBAION. 


A. 


Canons  of  the  Holy  Apostles. 
Athanasius,  without  a  beginning. 

' '  A^offroXog . 

AffogovfjL.svu   ttiC  3-g/a?  ypctCptjc. 
Exposition  of  the  Acts  of  Apostles. 
Anastasius  of  Sinai. 
Canons8  of  the  Apostles  and  Fathers. 
The  Panoplia9  Dogmatica  of  Alexius  Comnenus. 


(5)  Treatises  of  some  of  the  Fathers. 

(6)  "  A  more  common  form  among  the  later  Greeks,"  says  Sahnasius,   "  than 

(7)  Perhaps  the  Work  of  Theodoret,  entitled  QioSu^rov  ug  rk  oL^o^x  t?s  B-uag'y^x^ii  ■ 
or  from  Maximus,  who  died  in  66*2.     See  the  first  volume  of  his  Works. 

(8)  See  Lamb.  l.iv.  p.  197. 

(9)  See  Fabricius,  viii.  329.   Bib.  Gr. 


^^^H 


I  ■ 


(16) 


CATALOGUE  OF  MANUSCRIPTS 

The  Exposition1,  by  Zonaras,   of  the  Canones,  or  Sacred  Hymns,   of 
Joannes  Damascenus. 

'  AirotrroXoevayy  iXiov ' . 

B. 

T$CCO~tX£tUV  TTSgh  uvag^ov . 

BcuriXeiov  rov  ^lyctXov  hoypctriHr}  7ravo7rXtcx.. 

Lives  of  Saints. 

Basil.    9  vols. 

Basil  on  the  Hexaemeron.    1  vols. 

The  same  on  the  Psalms.    '2  vols. 

The  same  on  Isaiah. 

The  Ascetica3  of  the  same. 

JSovXyagtug   .    2  vols. 

B<£x/of  TovgKizov. 

r. 

Ypriyopico b  ru   QeoXoy&i  ffypXia    ztg  ro    "  ttuXiv     Ir/trovg,"   zu)    ug    ro 

Of  the  same  author.     9  vols. 
Of  the  same,  with  Scholia. 

Tg&xprjg  rrjg  Setcig  fyrrjfAciru. 

Ypnyoplovc>   rov    QsoXoyov   ivcc  (BiQXiov,    ro    oto7ov  uvea    ypcc-^i^ov  rov 

fioxriX&ojg  '  AAef /ou  rov  ¥*.o(JL,vrjvov,  rov  idiov  ygcc-^>tf/,ov. 
Gregory  of  Nyssa. 


(1)  Kxvow;  ecm<rra.(nft,»i.    See  Lamb.  I.  ill  -  p.  3Q,  and   the  Notes.      Zonaras  lived 
in  1120. 

(2)  See  Du  Cange,  Glos.  Gr.  in  voce ;  and  Goar,  Euchol.  921. 

(3)  "  Basil  was  a  grand  promoter  of  an  ascetic  life  :   all  the  monks  and  nuns  in  the 
Greek  Church  are  everywhere  of  his  order."      Covell.  p.  251. 

(4)  See  this  title  in  the  Printed  Books,  p.  xi. 

(5)  Gregory  of  Nazianzum  ;  "  cui  post  Johannem  Apostolum   pro  peculiari  pane- 
gyrico,  et  x«t  £|o^>iv,  Theologi  cognomen  adhnesit."     Muratori. 

(Q)  "  A  work  of  Gregory  Nazianzen,  which  is  in  the  hand-writing  of  the  king 
Alexius  Comnenus.     His  own  hand-writing." 


IN  THE  PATMOS  LIBRARY. 

Exposition  of  Holy  Scripture. 

Gregory  the  Theologue.     1  vols. 

Of  the  same,  Epistles. 

Tpnyooiov  rov  S&oXoyov  rirgourriyoiv  ifyywic,. 

Gregory  of  Nyssa,  and  others  of  the  Fathers,  on  the  Lord's  Prayer. 

Orations  of  Gregory  Nazianzen. 

Exposition  on  the  Epistle  to  the  Romans. 

A. 

Demetrius  Gemistus7,   reg)   rtjg    Iv   piyct.'hn  ixxXtiffia   rov   vurgiKgxfiv 

Xsiroupytotg . 
Aiovvtriov  rov   Agzioirccyirov. 
Aiodoogov  'St/tsXitvrov  'IcrrogtKOV. 

E. 
Gospels.     Various  copies. 
ILvuyyzXizr)  crvptpuviu. 
Commentary  on  the  Psalms. 
Interpretation  of  the  Old  Testament. 
'ElaTOOTgAa^a    oXov  rov  ypovov. 
Commentary  on  one  of  the  Gospels. 
Ecclesiastical  History  of  Eusebius. 
'Effoafyj,9  Xoyoi  hutyogoi. 

0. 
(doiXao~<riovw  rov  u££u  zou  '  Avrioyov. 
Theodoret  on  the  Psalms. 
Theodore,  abbot  of  Studium. 

I. 
'l6j<rr,(pu  Rgvevvtov  Koyoi  hcapogoi. 


(17) 


(7)  Deacon  and  prothonotary  in  Constantinople. 

(8)  See  Goar,  Euchol.  p.  436. 

(9)  Ephraem,  or  Ephraim,  born  at  Nisibis  in  Mesopotamia.   See  Lamb.  1.1.  p.  117- 

(10)  Abbot  of  a  monastery  in  Libya.     Cave,  Hist.  Ecc. 

(11)  Lived  about  1420.    A  Byzantine  monk. 


(18)  CATALOGUE  OF  MANUSCRIPTS 

Theological  Enchiridion  of  John  of  Damascus. 
Exposition  of  the  History  of  Job. 

'laccvvov1  rov  o\QQ>oL  qyovfAivov  rrjg  'Fatdov. 

The  same. 

Isidore.    Epistles. 

'Iwavv??2  ra  SsoXoyoj  woigu&'kritrsig. 

'la-oca^  oc££oi  rov  ~%vpov  Xoyoi  utrtcririKOi. 

'laicurrity4  fiatrikiag  'hda/v  j3iog. 

On  the  Ten  Categories. 

John  of  Damascus. 

John  Scylitza5. 

,Ia,rgo<ro<picib.   3  vols. 


KccvovccPtov. 


K. 


A. 


Various  Discourses. 

Discourses  of  Chrysostom  and  others  on  Lent. 


M. 


Maximus,   <jreg)  awoppriray  rtjg  Seiccg  ygciffig. 

M.<x-%iu.'QV  rov  oU/oXoyijTOV  %va  Avyov<rrtvov,  "Svpww  rt  rov  vzov  §eo\oyov, 
y.r/A   rivsg  vzcc^ou  'Foopavov  (BaonXiag7 . 


(1)  Perhaps  the  Epistle  of  John  the  abbot  of  Raith  to  John  Clinacus.      Lamb.  I.  iv. 
p.  185. 

(2)  n#§«*>i»Ve<j ,  Prayers.     St.  John  is  called  in  the  Menaea,  'A§#»iy«s  t*<;  SioAoyi'xs. 

(3)  Lived  in  the  sixth  century. 

(4)  "  Historia  Judaica  de  Barlaamo  eremita,  et  Josapho  rege  Indiae."   Fab.  ix.  737. 

(5)  John  Scylitza,  a  Thracesian  by  birth,  wrote  an  Epitome  of  History.      Lamb. 
I  ii.  p.  578. 

(6)  Collection  from  the  writings  of  Hippocrates,  Galen,  and  Meletius. 

(7)  For  an  account  of  Symeon,  see  Leo  Allat.  deSym.  Scriptis,  from  p.  143  to  1/0. 
Maximus  died  in  662.     Ntx^xi,  novella; ,  of  Romanus  ;   see  Du  Cange  in  voce. 


IN  THE  PATMOS  LIBRARY. 

MeXtrtov*  ^vgriyov  pzraipgocc-rov,  Discourses   on  the  Twelve  Months. 

14  vols. 
Imperfect  Menaeum. 
Menaea  for  the  whole  Year.    12  vols. 

N. 
N;.*?jra9  J,sppaiv  eig  to  koltu,  looocvvfiv. 

NofMXOV. 

Nicolaus,  archbishop  of  Constantinople.    Letters,  and  some  Expositions 
of  Scripture. 

n. 

Life  of  Pachomius  1o. 
n.ccrsgi:ictn .      4  vols. 
UctvXov  rov    opo'koyrirov. 
Ylctv/i'yvgtxov '". 
Acts  of  the  Apostles13. 


(19) 


2. 


^vvu^ocPifrrrjg1*.      2  vols. 
Catena  Patrum  on  Isaiah. 
Also  on  Pentateuch. 

^uvodwv  KCCVOVtg. 

UrovVirov  (perhaps  of  Theodore). 

Tgicodiov   ccrsXsg   . 


T. 


(8)  Meletins  Syrigus,  Cretensis,   (Fab.  ix.  308.)    lived  in  l6"38. 
(y)  Metropolitan  of  Serrae  in  Macedonia,  about  the  year  1077- 

(10)  Died  in  the  middle  of  the  fourth  century. 

(11)  "  Variae  adhortationes  et  narrationes  ex  variis  scriptis  et  vitis  Patrum.  Fab.  ix.  312." 

(12)  Liber  Ecclesiasticus.  Du  Cange  in  voce.    See  also  Cave,  De  Lib.  Eccl.  Grcecorum. 

(13)  A  MS.  of  Pachymer,  who  lived  in  the  middle  of  the  thirteenth  century,  is 
omitted  in  this  Catalogue.      Possevin  mentions  it.     Fab.  vii.  77<5. 

(14)  Synaxariorum  Scriptor.    Du  Cange  in  voce. 

(15)  See  Du  Cange,  Gloss,  in  voce;  and  Cave,  De  Lib.  Ecc.  Graecorum. 


^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^H 


■■■■ 


(20) 


MANUSCRIFfS  IN  THE  PATMOS  LIBRARY. 


'X^ocKorjg1  fl-££<  km  a,Khuv  k^iroov. 


X. 


Chrysostom.     8  vols. 


(1)  Perhaps  from  Theodore  of  Studium.     See  Yriarte,  Cat.  Bib.  Mat,  p.  18. 


CHAP. 


I 

CHAP.  I. 


VOYAGE  FROM  SYRIA  TO  EGYPT. 

The  Romulus  makes  preparation  for  sailing —  The  Author  takes  leave 
of  Djezzar — Further  Account  of  Acre — Existence  of  the  Pointed 
Arch  in  the  Holy  Land,  and  elsewhere  in  the  East — Anecdote  of 
Deare,  an  English  Sculptor — Voyage  to  Egypt — Accident  which 
befel  the  Romulus — Arrival  at  Aboukir  —  The  Braakel  receives 
Orders  to  convoy  a  Squadron  to  Marseilles  —  French  Prisoners 
—  Author  narrowly  escapes  being  conveyed  to  France  —  Discovery 
of  the  Worship  of  Astaroth  upon  Mount  Libanus —  Dangerous 
Passage  of  the  Bar  at  the  Mouth  of  the  Nile  — Fort  St.  Julian — 
State  of  Affairs  in  Rosetta  —  Price  of  Provisions  —  Manufacture 
of  Coffee  —  Curious  Remains  of  Pointed  Arches — Probable  Con- 
sequence of  the  Interruption  of  Mecca  Pilgrimage — Exhibition  of 
the  Psylli,  or  Serpent- Eaters. 

1  he  most  active  preparation   for  sailing  was  made  upon 

our   return   to   the    Romulus    frigate.     Upwards    of   sixty 

vol.  in.  b  bullocks 


CHAP.  I. 


2 


ACRE. 


ration  for 
sailing. 


The  Author 
takes  leave 
of  Djezzar. 


chap.  i.       bullocks  were  on  board,  and  forty  more  were  afterwards 
The  Romulus     added  to  the  number.     Every  exertion  was  then  made  to  get 

makes  prepa- 

in  the  necessary  supply  of  fresh  water.  We  bought  great 
part  of  the  freight  of  melons  from  the  Jaffa  boat,  to  carry 
to  the  fleet  ofFAboukir;  and  a  more  acceptable  donation 
can  hardly  be  imagined,  for  almost  all  its  supplies  came 
from  England :  fruit  and  vegetables  were  particularly 
scarce. 

In  our  last  visit  to  old  Djezzar,  we  found  his  health 
visibly  on  the  decline;  but  there  was  nothing  he  seemed 
more  anxious  to  conceal  from  the  knowledge  of  his 
subjects.  The  well-known  fable  of  the  dying  lion  was 
constantly  present  to  his  imagination  ;  and  no  one  better 
understood  its  moral  application.  Like  the  generality  of 
antient  fables,  it  is,  in  fact,  strikingly  applicable  to  the 
nolicy  and  manners  of  Eastern  nations '.  Although  the 
repose  and  stillness  of  his  charem  were  better  suited 
to  the  preservation  of  his  life  than  the  public  duties 
of  his  palace,  he  knew  too  well  the  consequences  of  a 
rumour  purporting  his  inability  to  transact  the  affairs  of 
his  government,  and  therefore  more  readily  granted  audi- 
ence to  persons  requesting  admission  to  his  presence  ;  con- 
tinuing his  usual  practice  of  cutting  watch-papers,  but  being 
less  ostentatious  of  his  bodily  vigour,   and  the  exhibition  of 

his 


(l)    In  the  tim<    uH  Aristophanes  there  were  three  kinds  of  fables ;   the  Lybian^ 
which  were  the  moat  antient,  the  Sybaritic,  and  the  iEsopian. 


ACRE. 

his  Herculean  strength4.  We  found  him,  as  before,  with 
his  feet  bare,  and  a  bottle  of  water  by  his  side,  but  a  more 
than  ordinary  covering  of  turbans  appeared  about  his  head 
and  neck.  Having  thanked  him  for  the  many  obligations 
he  had  conferred  upon  us,  he  inquired  concerning  our  late 
journey,  and  seemed  to  possess  great  knowledge  of  the 
country,  as  well  as  some  degree  of  information  respecting 
its  antient  history.  Adverting  to  the  dispute  which 
took  place  between  the  Author  and  one  of  the  escort  in  the 
Plain  of  Esdraelon,  (of  which  he  had  been  informed,) 
he  cautioned  us  against  the  imprudence  of  striking  an 
Arab,  unless  with  power  to  put  him  instantly  to  death; 
adding,  "if  you  had  been  any  where  but  in  Djezzar's 
dominions,  and  under  his  protection,  you  would  not  have 
lived  to  tell  the  story.  I  know  the  inhabitants  of  this 
country  better  than  any  man,  and  have  long  found  that  they 
are  not  to  be  governed  by  halves.  I  have  been  deemed 
severe ;  but  I  trust  you  have  found  my  name  respected,  and 
even  beloved,  notwithstanding  my  severity."  This  last 
observation  was  strictly  true ;  for,  in  spite  of  all  his  cruelty, 
such  was  the  veneration  in  which  they  held  the  name  of 
Djezzar  in  many  parts  of  the  Holy  Land,  that  many  of  the 
Arabs  would  have  sacrificed  their  lives  for  him.  As  we- 
were  about  to  take  leave,  he  acknowledged,  for  the  first 
time,  that  he  did  not  feel  himself  well,  and  complained  of 
want  of  sleep  ;  asking  us  if  we  perceived  any  change  in  his 

health. 


CHAP.  I. 


(2)  See  p.  361  of  the  last  Volume. 


ACRE. 


CHAP.  I. 


Further 
Account  of 
Acre. 


health.  His  Interpreter  told  us  that  he  had  never  before 
known  an  instance  of  a  similar  confession  ;  and  augured, 
from  this  circumstance,  that  he  would  not  long  survive ; 
which  proved  true,  although  his  death  did  not  immediately 
follow.  His  last  moments  were  characteristic  of  his  former 
life.  The  person  whom  he  fixed  upon  for  his  successor,  was 
among  the  number  of  his  prisoners.  Having  sent  for  this 
man,  he  made  known  his  intentions  to  him  ;  telling  him,  at 
the  same  time,  that  he  would  never  enjoy  peaceful  dominion 
while  certain  of  the  princes  of  the  country  existed.  These 
men  were  then  living  as  hostages  in  Djezzar's  power.  "You 
will  not  like  to  begin  your  reign,"  said  he,  "  by  slaughtering 
them;  I  will  do  that  business  for  you:"  accordingly, 
ordering  them  to  be  brought  before  him,  he  had  them  all 
put  to  death  in  his  presence.  Soon  afterwards  he  died ; 
leaving,  as  he  had  predicted,  the  undisturbed  possession  of 
a  very  extensive  territory  to  his  successor,  Ismael  Pasha ; 
described  by  English  travellers,  who  have  since  visited  Acre, 
as  a  very  amiable  man,  and  in  every  thing  the  very  reverse 
of  this  Herod  of  his  time. 

After  our  last  interview  with  Djezzar,  we  made  a  final 
survey  of  the  town  of  Acre,  particularly  of  its  market,  which 
is  well  supplied  with  most  of  the  Eastern  commodities. 
Cotton  is  the  principal  export.  Its  tobacco  is  very  highly 
esteemed;  and  coarse  muslins,  remarkable  for  the  durability 
of  their  dye,  are  sold  very  cheap.  The  inhabitants  make 
use  of  pipes  garnished  with  a  swathing  of  silk  or  linen,  for 
the  purpose  of  absorbing  water.  This,  being  kept  moist, 
cools  the  smoke,  as  it  rises  through  the  wooden  tube,  by  the 

constant 


ACRE. 

constant  evaporation.  It  is  a  method  of  smoking  less 
injurious  than  the  Arab  custom  of  using  the  Hooka,  which 
generally  consists  of  nothing  more  than  a  hollow  gourd 
containing  water,  and  two  pieces  of  cane ;  but  the  whole 
of  the  smoke,  instead  of  being  drawn  into  the  mouth, 
is  thereby  inhaled  upon  the  lungs,  and  sometimes 
this  practice  causes  asthma,  where  it  has  been  long  con- 
tinued'. Mariti,  in  the  account  of  his  journey  from  Acre 
to  Mount  Carmel,  mentions  the  exportation  to  Venice 
of  the  sand  of  the  River  Belus,  for  the  glass-houses  of 
that  city.  "  It  is,"  says  he2,  "  to  this  river,  Belus,  that 
we  are  indebted  for  those  magnificent  plates  of  glass  which 
Venice  manufactured,  to  embellish  the  apartments  of  Eu- 
rope." The  Arabs  call  this  river  Kardanc.  We  saw  in 
Acre  several  individuals  engaged  in  manufacturing  the  kind 
of  leather  known  in  England  under  the  vulgar  appel- 
lation   of    Red   Morocco;    and  as   the   whole  process    was 

publicly 


CHAP.  I. 


(1)  Shaw  mentions  this  custom  (See  Travels,  p.  234.  Lond,  \7$7-  -Note  9.)  He  says 
the  Arabs  call  it  Shrob  el  Douhhun,  that  is  to  say,  "  drinking  of  smoke."  It  is  a 
universal  practice,  not  only  in  the  Levant,  but  over  all  the  Mediterranean.  Like  other 
intoxicating  habits,  when  once  acquired,  it  is  not  readily  abandoned.  The  effect  produced 
resembles  that  of  a  dram  ;  causing,  at  the  moment,  distention  of  the  nerves  and  vessels 
of  the  head,  particularly  of  the  eyes.  The  Greek  who  tra\elled  with  us,  after  thus 
conveying  all  the  smoke  he  could  collect  from  a  well-lighted  pipe  into  his  lungs,  could 
retain  it  there  for  a  few  -econd-,  and  sometimes  drink  a  glass  of  water,  before  he 
rendered  back  the  smoke,  in  curling  volumes,  through  his  lips  and  nostrils.  The 
Mahometans  are  so  delighted  by  the  effect  of  inhaling  smoke,  that,  when  they  have 
emptied  their  lungs  of  it,  they  exclaim,  "  Alhandillah,"    God  be  praised  ! 

(2)  Mariti's    Travels    through    Cyprus,     Syria,    and    Palestine,,    vol.   II.  p.  124. 
Lond.  179  J. 


■■■■■ 


wmmm 


CHAP.  I. 


Existence  of 
the  Pointed 
Arch  in  the 
Holy  Land ; 


and  elsewhere 
in  the  East. 


ACRE. 

publicly  exhibited,  it  may  be  regretted  we  did  not  pay  more 
attention  to  the  articles  made  use  of  in  preparing  the  dye, 
which  afforded  the  most  lively  and  brilliant  scarlet  we  had 
ever  beheld.  The  skins  were  constantly  exposed,  during 
the  operation,  to  the  hottest  beams  of  the  sun,  in  the  most 
sultry  season  of  the  year. 

Before  we  quit  this  account  of  Acre,  it  will  be 
proper  to  remark,  that  the  two  arches  of  a  lofty  build- 
ing represented  in  the  engraved  view  of  the  town, 
belong  to  the  edifice  noticed  by  Le  Bruyn '.  The 
pointed  arches,  so  accurately  delineated  by  that  very  able 
artist,  have  been  a  stumbling-block  in  the  way  of  certain 
modern  hypotheses  concerning  the  origin  of  Gothic 
architecture5.  But  these  are,  by  no  means,  the  only  ex- 
amples of  the  pointed  style  in  the  Holy  Land,  erected 
anterior  to  the  existence  of  such  arches  in  England.  The 
Author  has  already  enumerated  others,  which  may  be  referred 
to  the  age  of  Justinian3,  if  not  of  Constantine.  There  are 
similar  remains  of  equal  antiquity  in  Cyprus  and  in  Egypt. 
The  ignorance  which  would  ascribe  such  works  to  the 
labours  of  English  workmen,  in   the  time  of  the  Crusades, 

when 


(1)  See  the  engraving  in  Le  Bruyn's  Travels. 

(2)  And  will  continue  to  be  so.  Acre  was  taken  by  the  Saracens,  A.  D.  1291  : 
the  Christians  have  never  been  permitted  to  gain  a  footing  there  since  that  event ;  there- 
fore the  pointed  arches  noticed  by  Le  Bruyn  belong  to  an  edifice  which  has  been  a 
ruin  during  the  last  six  hundred  and  twenty  years. 

(3)  The  author  of  "  Munimenta  Antiqua,"  notices  pointed  arches  in  an  aqueduct 
of  Justinian.  See  vol.  IV.  p.  J  5.  Note  1.  Lond.  1S05.  The  pointed  arch  is  also  seen  in 
aqueducts  built  by  Trajan. 


ACRE. 

when  foreigners,  or  the  pupils  of  foreigners,  were  employed 
in  England,  for  every  undertaking  of  the  kind,  so  late  as  the 
reign  of  Henry  the  Eighth,  is  really  lamentable ;  nor  is  it 
possible  to  devise  more  fallible  conjecture  than  that  which 
attributes  the  origin  of  any  style  of  architecture  to  the 
North  of  Europe;  whence,  as  it  is  observed  by  a  late  enter- 
taining writer4,  "  Nothing  ever  came  but  the  sword  and 
desolation."  The  statement  of  a  few  facts  are  sufficient, 
in  an  instant,  to  overturn  such  visionary  heresy.  Not  less 
than  six  Oriental  cities  may  be  enumerated,  where  this 
kind  of  architecture  was  formerly  in  use  :  these  are,  Nicotia 
in  Cyprus ;  Ptolemais,  Dio  Cassarea,  and  Jerusalem,  in  the 
Holy  Land ;  Rosetta,  and  Cairo,  in  Egypt.  In  all  of  these 
there  are  remains  of  the  pointed  style,  which  relate  to 
a  much  earlier  period  than  its  introduction  in  England. 
A  further  acquaintance  with  Oriental  architecture  will, 
assuredly,  bring  to  light  many  other  instances  than  those 
which  have  now  been  adduced.  Not  but  that  the  pointed 
style  may  have  possessed,  in  the  north  of  our  island,  a  degree 
of  antiquity  greater  than  even  the  advocates  for  its  English 
origin  have  ever  dreamed  of  assigning  to  it.  Masons  were 
first  brought  into  England  by  a  Monk,  the  preceptor  of 
the  venerable  Bede,  about  the  middle  of  the  seventh  century, 
together  with  the   arts  of  painting  and   glazing5.     About 

this 


CHAP.  I. 


(4)  De  Chateaubriand's  Travels,  vol.  II.  p.  124.  Lond.  1811. 

(5)  "  Benet  the  Monke,  and  maister  of  the  reverend  Beda,  brought  first  the  crafte  of 
Painting,  Glasing,  and  Masons,  into  this  land."  Stow's  Summary  of  the  Chronicles  of 
England,  pp.  27,  28.  Lond.  1598. 


BBS^H^^^^I  iH^H^^H^H 


■■ 


8 


CHAP.  I. 


ACRE. 

this  time  the  monastery  of  Ely  was  founded,  and  the  abbeys 
of  Abingdon,  Chertsey,    and    Barking,    were    built l.      The 
monastery  of  Gloucester  was  also  established2.     But  before 
that  time,   Tona,   upon  the  western  coast  of  Scotland,  was 
the  seat  of  letters  :    the  writings  of  Adamnanus,  its  abbot, 
have  been  often  cited  in  these  Travels.     There  can  be  no 
doubt,  therefore,  but  that  an  abbey  church  existed  in-  that 
island   prior   to   the  foundation   of  the    monastery  at  Ely. 
Adamnanus   was    born    in    the   beginning   of  the   seventh 
century3,  at  Rathboth,  now  called  Raphoe,  in  the  County  of 
Donegal,  in  Ireland;  which  country  he  left  when  he  became 
abbot    of  Iona4.      As   at   that   time    the    model   of    every 
Christian  sanctuary  was  derived  from  the  Holy  Land,  and 
generally  from   the  Church  of  the  Holy  Sepulchre5,  where 
the  pointed  style  may  yet  be  discerned  in  the  original  cover- 
ing of  the  Sepulchre   itself,  it  is  surely  probable  that  Iona, 
whose  abbot  drew  up  so  accurate  an  account  of  all  the  holy 
places,  would  preserve  something  in  imitation  of  its  most 
sacred  edifices.    A  short  time  previous  to  the  journey  which 

constitutes 


(1)  Stow's  Summary  of  the  Chronicles  of  England,  pp.  27,  28.    Lond.  \5QS. 

(2)  Ibid. 

(3)  A.  D.  626. 

(4)  Butler's  Lives  of  the  Saints,  vol.  IX.  p.  303.   Edin.  1799- 

(5)  Witness  the  interesting  though  almost  unnoticed  model  of  the  Church  of  the 
Holy  Sepulchre,  called  "  the  Round  Church,"  in  Cambridge,  built  by  the  Knights  of 
Jerusalem,  and  shewing  precisely  the  form  of  the  building  as  it  was  in  the  seventh 
century.  See  the  Plan  given  by  Adamnanus,  apud  Mabillon.  Acta  Sanctor.  Ordin,. 
Benedicti,  Seec.  3.  Par.  2.  p.  505.    L.  Par.  1672. 

(6)  See  Pococke's  Travels,  and  the  Engravings  already  given  in  this  work. 


A  C  R  E. 

constitutes  the  subject  of  the  present  work,  the  author 
visited  Iona ;  and  in  the  numerous  vestiges  of  ecclesiastical 
splendor  which  he  then  observed  in  the  rude  bas-reliefs 
belonging  to  the  sepulchral  monuments  of  that  island, 
the  granite  coffins,  but,  above  all,  the  remains  of  the 
pointed  Gothic  style8,  a  traveller  there  might  rather 
imagine  himself  viewing  antiquities  belonging  to  the  Holy 
Land,  and  edifices  erected  by  the  mother  of  Constantine, 
than  of  an  ecclesiastical  establishment  upon  a  small  island 
in  the  Hebrides  ;  upon  an  island,  too,  which  was  already 
thus  distinguished,  before  the  inhabitants  of  England  could 
be  said  to  be  converted  to  Christianity ;  and  at  an  aera 
when  the  king  of  the  East  Angles  was  actually  sending 
into  Burgundy  for  missionaries  to  preach  the  Christian 
faith9.  The  state  of  Iona  indeed,  at  that  period,  can  only 
be  accounted  for,  from  the  intercourse  which  was  then 
maintained  with  the  Holy  Land  by  all  parts  of  the  Christian 
world.  As  a  seat  of  learning,  Iona  was  so  renowned,  that 
its  abbot  was  appointed  to  act  as  ambassador  from  Ireland 
to  an  English   monarch10.     It  is   well   known    that    Bede 

borrowed 


9 


CHAP.  I. 


(8)  See  Pennant's  Hebrides,  Plates  xxn  and  xxin.  p.  253.     Chester,  1774. 

(9)  Stow's  Summary,  &c.  p.  27.  Lond.  15Q8. 

(10)  Bede,  as  cited  by  Mabillon,  mentions  the  embassy  of  Adamnanus  to  Ealdfrith 
(called  Alfrid  by  Bede)  a  king  of  the  Northumbrians.  This  event  took  place  a  short 
time  before  the  abbot's  death,  in  705.  "  Adamnanum  mortuum  esse  paullo  post  suam 
legalionem  ad  Aldfridum,  anno  dccv  defunctum,  teste  Beda  in  HI.  v.  cap.  1 9-  o,nno  regni 
sui  vigesimo  necdum  impleto."  (Vid.  Mabillon.  Acta  Ord.  S.  Bened.  Saec.  3.  Par.  2. 
p.  500.    L.  Par.  1672.) 

VOL.   III.  C 


•%*%'*•  :w;*t&y: 


"^(r.v*'  vK^x.i^ 


iHMI^MHBi 


10 


CHAP.  I. 


ACRE. 

borrowed  his  account  of  the  Holy  Land  from  Arculfe's 
testimony,  as  afforded  by  Adamnanus.  We  may  therefore 
with  justice  ask,  Has  it  been  proved,  that,  prior  to  the 
introduction  of  the  Saxon  arch  in  the  southern  provinces  of 
our  island,  no  instance  of  the  pointed  style  adorned  those 
ecclesiastical  establishments  in,  the  north,  which,  having  no 
connexion  with  the  Saxons,  erected  their  edifices  at  an  earlier 
period,  and  after  a  different  model  ?  It  is  conceived  that 
this  question  cannot  be  answered,  by  urging  that  the 
pointed  style  originated  from  the  intersection  of  circular 
arches.  The  plain  fact  of  the  existence  of  pointed  arches 
before  the  period  assigned  for  their  invention  in  England,  is 
an  existing  and  stubborn  document,  which  no  conjecture  can 
supersede1.  How  shall  we  otherwise  explain  the  appearance 
of  pointed  arches  in  Egypt  and  in  the  Holy  Land,  presented 
by  the  examples  already  alluded  to  ?  Even  with  reference  to 
buildings  of  the  twelfth  century,  particularly  the  remarkable 

instance 


(l)  See  the  very  recent  but  most  satisfactory  elucidation  of  this  subject  by  the  Rev. 
T.  Kerrich,  read  before  the  Society  of  Antiquaries,  May  11,  18,  and  June  1,  1809,  and 
since  published  in  the  XVIth  volume  of  their  Archaeologia.  Speaking  of  the  supposed 
English  origin  of  Gothic  architecture,  Mr.  Kerrich  says,  "  The  late  Mr..  Gilpin, 
I  believe,  first  broached  this  notion,  (See  Gilpin's  Northern  Tour,  vol.  I.)  at  least  he 
first  delivered  it  to  the  world  in  print :  he  had  never  been  out  of  England  j  he  was 
therefore  excusable :  but  how  people  who  had  travelled,  and  had  visited  the  other 
countries  of  Europe,  could  patronize  such  a  notion,  is  really  surprising:  they  must  know, 
unless  they  voluntarily  shut  their  eyes,  that  throughout  the  Low  Countries,  from  St. 
Omer's  to  Cologne,  the  old  churches  are  all  Gothic;  and  many  of  them  immense  structures, 
and  wonderfully  beautiful;  such  as  the  cathedrals  of  Antwerp  and  Mechlin,  St.  Gudule's 

at 


ACRE. 


11 


instance  afforded  by  the  mosque  and  sepulchre  of  Sultan  chap,  nx. 
Zahir,  near  the  eastern  gate  of  Cairo2,  will  the  historian,  who 
records  facts  only,  rest  satisfied  with  this  puerile  conjecture, 
as  to  their  origin  ;  that  the  Caliph,  although  an  intolerant 
Mahometan,  perhaps  employed  some  Christian  slaves  for  his 
workmen  ?  Even  supposing  this  were  true,  those  men  must 
have  been  supernaturally  inspired  with  architectural  know- 
ledge for  the  undertaking. 

Acre  has  been  described  as  the  scene  of  a  very  interest- 
ing story  in  English  history,  which  is  said  however  to  have 
no  foundation  in  truth.  It  is  related  by  Speed5,  that  Eleanor, 
wife  of  Edward  the  First,  drew  the  poison  from  her 
husband's  arm,  when  poignarded  by  an  assassin  ;  applying 
her  lips  to  the  wound.  "  Pitie  it  is,"  says  Fuller4,  "so 
pretty  a  storie  should  not  be  true  (with  all  the  miracles  in 
Love's  legends)!  and  sure  he  shall  get  himself  no  credit,  who 
undertaketh  to  confute  a  passage  so  sounding  to  the  honour 

of 


at  Brussels,  and  St.  Bavon's  at  Ghent,  and  numberless  others.  The  whole  of  France  is 
covered  with  them,  from  Calais  to  Lyons,  and  quite  to  the  banks  of  the  Rhine,  where 
the  cathedral  of  Strasburg  is  eminently  light  and  beautiful.  The  cathedral  and  church  of 
St.  Nicaise  at  Rheims,  the  cathedrals  of  Amiens,  Rouen,  and  Evreux,  are  also  well 
known  as  buildings  of  extraordinary  dimensions  and  elegance  in  this  style  of  architecture. 
According  to  Ponz's  Voyage  de  Espaha,  and  the  writings  of  other  travellers,  the  case  is  the 
very  same  in  every  kingdom  of  Spain."  Mr.  Kerrich  then  proves  its  existence,  and 
describes  its  remains,  over  all  Germany  and  Italy.  See  Observations  on  Gothic  Buildings 
and  Architecture,  by  the  Rev.  T.  Kerrich,  Principal  Librarian  of  the  University  of  Cam- 
bridge, M.J.  F.  S.J.    Jrchceologia,  vol.  XVI.  p.  299,  et  seq.    Lond.  1811. 

(2)  Vid.  Museum  Worsleyanum,  p.  87.    Lond.  1794.     Caliph  Zahir  lived  in   the 
twelfth  century. 

(3)  See  Speed's  Hist,  of  Edward  the  First. 

(4)  Fuller's  Historie  of  the  Holy  Warre,  book  iv.  chap.  29.  p.  220.     Caml.  1651. 


HHHH 


12 


CHAP.  I. 


Anecdote  of 
Deare,  an 
English 
Sculptor. 


Voyage  to 
Egypt. 


VOYAGE   FROM   SYRIA 

of  the  sex :  yet  can  it  not  stand  with  what  others  have 
WTitten1, — How  the  physician,  who  was  to  dresse  his  wounds, 
spake  to  the  Lord  Edmund  and  the  Lord  John  Voysie,  to 
take  away  Ladie  Elenor  out  of  the  Prince's  presence,  lest 
her  pitie  should  be  cruel  towards  him,  in  not  suffering  his 
sores  to  be  searched  to  the  quick.  And  though  she  cried 
out,  and  wrung  her  hands,  '  Madame,  said  they,  be  con- 
tented :  it  is  better  that  one  woman  should  weep  a  little 
while,  than  that  all  the  realm  of  England  should  lament 
a  great  season:'  and  so  they  conducted  her  out  of  the  place." 
The  tradition,  however,  which,  after  all,  is  not  disproved  by 
the  evidence  Fuller  has  adduced,  has  given  rise  to  one  of  the 
finest  specimens  of  modern  sculpture  existing  in  the  world*: 
and  as  it  affords,  perhaps,  the  only  existing  proof  of  the 
surprising  abilities  of  an  English  artist,  snatched  from  the 
pursuit  of  fame  in  the  very  opening  of  a  career  which  might 
have  classed  him  with  the  best  sculptors  of -antient  Greece,  the 
Author  considers  it  a  patriotic  duty  to  pay  some  tribute  to  its 
merit,  and  thereby  to  the  memory  of  its  author. 

Our  voyage  from  Acre  was  as  prosperous  as  the  former 
one  had  been  from  Egypt.   The  serenity  of  the  Mediterranean, 

at 


(1)  See  Fox,  Martyrolog.  pag.  337. 

(2)  The  work  of  George  Deare,  who,  at  a  very  early  period  of  life,  attained  to  a 
surprising  degree  of  perfection  in  sculpture  and  design.  He  died  a  few  years  ago,  at 
Rome,  at  the  very  time  when  the  first  proofs  of  his  genius  began  to  obtain  the  patronage 
necessary  for  its  full  development.  The  particular  work  alluded  to,  is  a  bas-relief, 
executed  in  the  marble  of  Carrara.  It  was  purchased  by  Sir  Corbet  Corbet,  an  English 
baronet,  and  belongs  now  to  his  collection.  This  brief  allusion  to  a  young  artist,  who 
would  have  been  an  honour  to  his  country,  is  perhaps  the  only  biographical  document 
concerning  him  likely  to  be  made  public. 


TO   EGYPT. 


13 


at  this  season  of  the  year,  is  surprisingly  contrasted  with  v  chap.i. 
the  tremendous  storms  which  accompany  the  vernal  and 
autumnal  equinoxes.  We  steered  for  Egypt  with  every 
sail  extended,  but  were  driven  by  such  gentle  breezes,  that 
the  motion  of  the  frigate  was  scarcely  perceptible.  On  the 
twenty-first  of  July,  at  seven  o'clock  p.  m.  we  were  under 
weigh,  and  about  ten  came  to  anchor  off  Cape  Carmel. 
The  next  morning,  at  four  a.  m.  we  made  sail  again,  and 
continued  our  progress  all  that  day  and  following  night, 
without  any  occurrence  worth  notice.  On  the  morning 
of  July  the  twenty-fourth,  at  seven  a.  m.  the  Island  of 
Cyprus  was  visible,  bearing  n.  n.  w.  distant  ten  or  eleven 
leagues.  At  five  a.  m.  of  the  following  morning,  the  same 
island  was  still  in  view,  and  nearly  at  the  same  distance, 
bearing  n.  and  by  e. 

July  the  twenty-sixth,  at  seven  p.  m.  we  hailed  the  Thisbe 
frigate.      This  day,  being  Sunday,  we  accompanied  Captain    Accident 

which  hefel 

Culverhouse  to  the  gun-room,  to  dine  there  with  his  officers,  theRomuius. 
according  to  his  weekly  custom,  As  we  were  sitting  down  to 
dinner,  the  voice  of  a  sailor  employed  in  heaving  the  lead  was 
suddenly  heard  calling  " half  four!"  The  Captain,  starting 
up,  reached  the  deck  in  an  instant;  and  almost  as  quickly 
putting  the  ship  in  stays,  she  went  about.  Every  seaman  on 
board  thought  she  would  be  stranded.  As  she  came  about,  all 
the  surface  of  the  water  exhibited  a  thick  black  mud  :  this 
extended  so  widely,  that  the  appearance  resembled  an  island. 
At  the  same  time,  no  land  was  really  visible,  not  even  from 
the  mast-head,  nor  was  there  any  notice  of  such  a  shallow 
in    any    chart    on    board.     The    fact    is,    as   we    learned 

afterwards, 


■.  *;sa..\<; 


V-^.iiiv/^'ft*^^,-,^^*-: :;'*,-*•*; •*.v"»  •'»;*« 


■■ 


■■ 


|IUQBBBHHHn9BBBH9BflH|D 


VOYAGE  FROM   SYRIA 

afterwards,  that  a  stratum  of  mud,  extending  for  many 
leagues  off  the  mouths  of  the  Nile,  exists  in  a  moveable  deposit 
near  the  coast  of  Egypt,  and,  when  recently  shifted  by 
currents,  it  sometimes  reaches  quite  to  the  surface,  so  as  to 
alarm  mariners  with  sudden  shallows,  where  the  charts 
of  the  Mediterranean  promise  a  considerable  depth  of  water. 
These,  however,  are  not  in  the  slightest  degree  dangerous. 
Vessels  no  sooner  touch  them,  than  they  become  dispersed ; 
and  a  frigate  may  ride  secure,  where  the  soundings  would 
induce  an  inexperienced  pilot  to  believe  her  nearly  aground. 
In  the  evening  of  this  day  we  made  land,  and  saw  the 
eastern  fort  at  the  entrance  of  the  Damiata  branch  of  the 
Nile,  bearing  n.  w.  distant  seven  or  eight  miles. 

July  the  twenty-seventh,  at  ten  a.  m.  we  were  employed 
answering  signals  from  the  Heroine ;  and  it  was  very  inter- 
esting to  us  landsmen,  to  observe  the  facilitv  with  which  the 
commanders  of  frigates,  separated  from  each  other  by  such  an 
immense  distance  that  their  vessels  were  scarcely  visible  to 
the  naked  eye,  held  a  conversation  with  each  other.  We  had 
calm  weather  with  light  breezes  during  this  and  the  following 
day:  no  land  visible.  July  the  twenty-ninth,  observed  a 
strange  cutter  to  leeward,  and  land,  bearing  s.  w.  and  by  s. 
supposed  to  be  Cape  Brule,  distant  six  or  seven  miles.  July 
the  thirtieth,  about  three  p.  m.  we  made  land  from  the  mast 
head,  which  proved  to  be  Cape  Berelos,  bearing  s.  s.w.  distant 
about  ten  or  twelve  miles,  the  town  of  Rosetta  being  at  the 
same  time  w.  and  by  s.  half  s.  distant  ten  or  eleven  miles. 

July  the  thirty-first,  a  calm  and  a  strong  current  com- 
pelled us  to  anchor  east  of  Rosetta,  in  five  fathoms  and 

a  half 


TO  EGYPT. 


15 


to  convoy  a 
Squadron  to 
Marseilles. 


a    half    water.       On    the    following    morning,    being  the    ,  chap,  i. 

first  of  August,    at  seven  a.  m.   weighed,    and  made  sail. 

At   four  p.m.   saw   the  fleet  off  Aboukir,  and  plainly  ob-    Arrival  at 

Aboukir. 

served  the  Admiral's  ship.  The  same  evening,  at  eight 
o'clock,  came  to  anchor  nearly  in  the  station  held  by 
the  Romulus  previous  to  her  sailing  for  the  coast  of  Syria. 
Here  we  received  the  joyful  intelligence  concerning  the 
surrender  of  Cairo ;  of  which  reports  had  reached  us 
in  Syria.  Presently  after,  Captain  Clarke  came  alongside, 
in  the  Braakel's  barge,  when,  taking  leave  of  our  kind 
friends,  we  sought  once  more,  as  it  were,  a  comfortable 
home,  within  his  cabin. 

We  had  not  been  here  many  days,  before  the  Braakel    TheBraakel 

J  J  receives  orders 

received  orders  from  the  Admiral,  Lord  Keith,  to  convoy 
the  French  prisoners  captured  at  Rachmanie  and  the 
different  forts  upon  the  Nile,  including  the  garrison  of 
Cairo,  to  Marseilles ;  and,  at  the  same  time,  to  take 
in  as  many  of  those  prisoners  as  possible,  with  their 
artillery,  arms,  baggage,  &c.  and  sail  with  all  possible 
expedition.  So  rapid  were  the  measures  adopted  by 
Captain  Clarke  for  this  purpose,  that  he  was  ready 
before  any  of  the  other  vessels  appointed  to  convey  the 
prisoners  had  obtained  their  cargo ;  and,  making  the  signal 
for  sailing  to  all  the  convoy,  he  was  ordered  to  proceed  on 
his  voyage,  without  waiting  for  the  other  ships.  The  scene 
which  ensued  on  board  the  Braakel,  upon  the  arrival  of  the    French  ph 

.  souers. 

trench  prisoners,  baffles  every  effort  of  description.  No 
strolling  players  in  a  barn  ever  presented  a  more  ludicrous 
exhibition,  or  a  better  burlesque  of  the  military  character. 

Voltaire, 


16 


CHAP.  I. 


' 


VOYAGE  FROM  SYRIA 

Voltaire,  dressed  in  a  pasteboard  helmet,  with  a  laced  coat 
and  long  dirty  ruffles,  to  represent,  in  one  of  his  own  plays, 
the  person  of  Alexander   the  Great,   was  a  hero,  compared 
with  some   of  the  figures  from  the  French  army.     There 
were  many  who  made  their  appearance  upon  the  quarter- 
deck   with    the    most    ghastly    visages,    beneath    helmets, 
of  all  colours,    covered  with   horses'    tails   hanging  about 
their  wrinkled  cheeks  and  shrugged-up  shoulders.     Every 
one  imagined  he  should  testify  a  proper  degree  of  spirit,  and 
perhaps  ingratiate  himself  with  a  British  crew,  by  the  ejacu- 
lation of  some  English  oath,  as  soon,  as  he  set  his  foot  upon 
the  deck.     When  they  were  all  drawn  up,  in  three  lines,  to 
be  reviewed,  and  assigned  to  their  respective  births,  some  of 
them  were  found  to  be  abandoned  women,  wretchedly  dressed 
in  tattered  habits  of  French  soldiers.     Other  females,  more 
pitiable,  came  also  in  men's  clothes;  but  these  were  Georgian 
and  Circassian  girls,  once  the  unfortunate  tenants  of  Turkish 
charems,  and  since  the  more  lamentable  slaves  of  the  lowest 
rabble  of   the  French   army.      They  were  desirous    to    go 
any  where,    rather  than  remain  in  Egypt.    In  that  country 
they  were  sure  of  being  put  to  death,  by  the  first  Moslem 
they  might  encounter. 

As  soon  as  matters  were  a  little  adjusted,  and  the 
wounded  men  taken  care  of,  among  whom  there  were  some 
in  such  terrible  condition  that  they  died  upon  the  following 
day,  a  deputation  from  the  prisoners  waited  upon  the 
Captain,  to  offer  him  the  use  of  a  band  of  music  every 
day  during  dinner,  and  requesting  permission  to  exhibit 
a  club-darmes,  for  fencing  every  morning,   and  a  comddie 

every 


TO    EGYPT. 


17 


CHAP.  I. 


every  evening.  Never  was  there  any  thing  to  equal 
the  gaiety  and  good-humour  of  these  Frenchmen.  All 
animosity  was  laid  aside ;  singing,  dancing,  and  acting, 
became  the  order  of  the  day  ;  even  the  wounded,  when  able 
to  come  upon  deck,  shewed  some  signs  of  the  joy  which 
animated  their  comrades  in  the  thoughts  of  returning  to 
France.  They  would  do  any  thing  to  gratify  the  English 
officers  and  men.  Sometimes,  when  their  band  played  "  God 
save  the  King,"  the  members  of  the  theatrical  party,  in 
the  forecastle,  sang  out,  in  broken  English,  "  Send  him 
victorious  /" 

Tne  moment  came,  however,  which  was  to  create  a  pause 
in  all  this  mirth.  The  Braakel  got  under  weigh;  and  a  stiff 
gale  causing  more  motion  than  suited  either  the  club-d 'armes  or 
the  come1  die,  every  Frenchman  was  indisposed.  Nothing  then 
was  heard  but  groans  and  curses.  All  the  instruments  were 
out  of  tune,  and  the  deck  was  soon  destitute  of  every  other 
symptom  of  activity,  except  that  which  was  manifested  by  the 
ship's  crew.  It  had  been  Captain  Clarke's  intention,  in  tacking 
out  of  Aboukir  Roads,  to  put  us  on  board  the  Sultan  Selim,  the 
famous  three-decker,  belonging  to  the  Capudan  Pasha,  with 
whom  we  were  acquainted  ;  but  this  proved  impracticable. 
To  our  very  great  consternation,  we  found  ourselves,  on  the 
morning  of  the  seventh  of  August,  so  far  advanced  in  the 
voyage  to  France,  that  we  were  already  out  of  sight  of  the  fleet. 
The  Captain  told  us  there  was  only  this  alternative,   to  go    escaPes  Y™1 

•*-  •/  o  conveyed  to 

with  him  to  Marseilles,  or  to  accept  of  a  small  boat,  which    France- 
he  would  willingly  give  us,  and  run  before  the  wind  to  the 
Mouth  of  the  Nile.     The  turbulent  appearance  of  the  sea 
vol.  in.  x>  did 


Author 
narrowly 


18 


CHAP.  I. 


Discovery  of 
the  Worship 
of  Venus 
upou  Mount 
Libanus. 


VOYAGE  FROM   SYRIA 

did  not  at  all  tempt  us  to  try  so  hazardous  an  experiment 
as  the  last;  for  if  we  had  done  this,  and  had  escaped  the 
consequences   of  our  own  ignorance  among    mountainous 
waves,    we    should   inevitably  have  perished   in    the    surf 
upon  the  coast.     We  therefore  could  only  lament  the  loss 
of  our  intended  journey  in  Egypt,  and  retire  into  the  cabin 
with   General  La  Grange,  to  whom  we  made  known  our 
very  embarrassing  situation.     While  we  were   thus  rumi- 
nating upon  the  unexpected  change  in  all  our  plans,  a  cry 
upon  deck  announced  that  a   sail  was  in   sight,   standing 
towards  Aboukir.     This  proved  to  be  the  Diadem,  a  6  i-gun 
ship,  Captain  Larmour,  from  Cyprus,  with  wood  and  water, 
which  presently  drew  near  to  us,  and  was  hailed  from  the 
Braakel.     We  requested   a  passage  to  the  fleet:    this  was 
granted,  and  with  some  difficulty  we  got  on  board.    Here  we 
found  Colonel  Capper,  the  bearer  of  overland  despatches  from 
India  to  the  British  army  in  Egypt.     He  gave  us  an  account 
of  his  very  arduous  expedition  ;  and   communicated  some 
interesting  particulars,  concerning  the  existence  of  antient 
Pagan   superstitions   in  Mount  Libanus,   particularly  those 
of  Venus.    These  were  alluded  to  in  the  preceding  "V  olume ' ; 
and   as   a  renewal  of  the  subject   here  might  be   deemed 
irrelevant,   the  Author  has  reserved  his   observations  upon 
Colonel  Capper's  discovery  for  the  Appendix2 :   it  relates  to 
a    very   interesting   relique  of    the    antient    mythology    of 

Syria. 

Upon 


(1)  See  Vol.  II.  p.  404.    Note  1. 

(2)  See  the  Appendix  to  this  Volume,  No.  H. 


TO  EGYPT. 


1.9 


CHAP.  I. 


Upon  our  return  to  the  fleet,  Captain  Larmour  accompanied 
Colonel  Capper  to  the  Admiral's  ship  ;  and  we  revisited  the 
Ceres,  where  we  found  our  valuable  friend  Captain  Russel, 
to  the  great  grief  of  his  officers  and  crew,  and  all  who  had 
the  happiness  of  knowing  him,  in  such  a  state  of  indispo- 
sition as  put  an  end  to  every  hope  of  his  recovery.  We 
had  much  difficulty  in  obtaining  a  passage  to  Rosetta  on 
board  one  of  the  djerms,  or  boats  belonging  to  the  Nile ; 
but,  at  length,  permission  was  granted  us  to  sail  in  one  of 
these  vessels,  from  the  Eurus,  Captain  Guion,  who  treated  us 
with  that  politeness  we  had  so  often  experienced  from  the 
officers  of  the  British  Navy.     We  left  the  Bay  of  Aboukir,    Dangerous 

...  '11  a  i  Passage  of  the 

August  the  eighth,  about  ten  o  clock  a.  m.     As  we  drew  near    Bar  at  the 

-vt'i  Mouth  of 

to  the  Rosetta  mouth  of  the  Nile,  we  observed  that  the  signal-  Nile 
boat  was  not  out*.  So  many  lives  had  been  lost  upon  the 
bar  by  not  attending  to  this  circumstance 4,  and  such  positive 
injunctions  issued  by  the  Commander-in-chief  against  at- 
tempting to  pass  when  the  signal  was  removed,  that  we 
supposed  the  Arabs  belonging  to  the  djerm  would  take  us 
back  to  the  fleet.  The  wind  was  however  against  our  return; 
and  the  crew  of  the  boat  persisted  in  saying  that  a  passage 
was  practicable.  It  was  accordingly  attempted ;  but  the 
surf  soon   drove  us  back,  and  we  narrowly  escaped  being 

overwhelmed 


the 


(3)  During  the  Egyptian  expedition,  a  boat  with  a  signal-flag  was  always  anchored  on 
the  outside  of  the  mouth  of  the  Nile,  when  the  surf  upon  the  bar  was  passable. 

(4)  Scarcely  a  day  elapsed,  during  our  first  visit  to  Rosetta,  in  which  some  lives  were 
not  sacrificed,  owing  to 'the  inattention  paid  to  the  signal.  It  was  even  asserted,  that 
the  loss  of  men  at  the  mouth  of  the  Nile,  including  those  both  of  the  army  and  navy, 
who  were  here  sacrificed,  was  greater  than  the  total  of  our  loss  in  all  the  engagements 
that  took  place  with  the  French  troops  in  Egypt. 


'tilfeii&'&ii.  .W.fait^;*;^*        *£vft***y*.  aw{--*i-'ii-'.':* 


20 


EGYPT. 


CHAP.  I. 


overwhelmed  by  it.  A  second  attempt  was  then  made,  nearer 
to  the  eastern  side  of  the  river's  mouth.  We  prevailed 
upon  some  English  sailors,  who  were  on  board,  to  let  the 
Arabs  have  their  own  way,  and  not  interfere  with  the  ma- 
nagement of  the  djerm,  however  contrary  it  might  seem  to 
their  usual  maxims.  Never  was  there  a  more  fearful  sight, 
nor  a  scene  of  greater  confusion,  than  ensued  when  we 
reached  the  middle  of  the  tremendous  surf  a  second  time. 
The  yells  of  the  Arabs,  the  oaths  of  the  sailors,  the  roaring 
of  the  waters,  the  yawning  gulphs  occasionally  disclosing 
to  us  the  bare  sand  upon  the  bar,  while  we  were  tossed 
upon  the  boiling  surf,  and,  to  complete  the  whole,  the 
spectacle  afforded  by  another  djerm  swamped  and  wrecked 
before  our  eyes,  as  we  passed  with  the  velocity  of  light- 
ning, unable  to  render  the  least  assistance,  can  never 
be  forgotten.  We  had  often  read  accounts  of  dangerous 
surf,  In  books  of  voyages,  but  entertained  no  notion  in  any 
degree  adequate  to  the  horrors  which  mariners  encounter 
in  such  a  situation  ;  nor  is  there  any  instance  known  of  a 
more  frightful  surf  than  this  river  sometimes  exhibits,  by 
its  junction  with  the  Mediterranean.  No  sooner  had  we 
gained  a  certain  point,  or  tongue  of  land,  advancing  from  the 
eastern  shore  of  the  river  towards  the  north-west,  than  a 
general  shout  from  the  Arabs  announced  that  every  danger 
was  over : — presently  we  sailed  as  serenely  along  as  upon  the 
calmest  surface  of  any  lake.  The  distance  of  the  mouth  of 
the  Nile  from  the  station  of  the  British  armament  is  consi- 
derable ;  but  while  we  remained  at  anchor  in  the  Bay  of 
Aboukir,    we  could  perceive  the  ships  stationed  near  the 

Boccaz ; 


It  O  S  E  T  T  A. 


21 


Boccaz ;  and  in  like  manner  we  here  observed  the  masts  of 
the  fleet  in  the  bay. 

As  we  entered  the  Nile,  we  were  amused  by  seeing 
an  Arab  fishing  with  the  sort  of  net  called  in  England 
a  casting-net :  this,  without  any  difference  either  in  shape, 
size,  or  materials,  he  was  throwing  exactly  after  our 
manner,  which  affords  reasonable  evidence  of  the  anti- 
quity of  the  custom.  Pelicans  appeared  in  great  number 
at  the  mouth  of  the  river;  also  that  kind  of  porpoise 
which  is  called  dolphin  in  the  Levant;  this  may  be  seen 
sporting  in  the  Nile,  as  high  up  as  the  town  of  Rosetta. 
The  first  object,  after  entering  the  Rosetta  branch,  is  the 
Castle,  or  Fort  of  St.  Julian.  In  digging  for  the  fortifica- 
tions of  this  place,  the  French  discovered  the  famous  Triple 
Inscription,  now  in  the  British  Museum ' :  this  will  be  ever 
valuable,  even  if  the  only  information  obtained  from  it  were 
confined  to  a  solitary  fact, — that  the  hieroglyphic  charac- 
ters do  exhibit  the  writing  of  the  priests  of  Egypt*.  This 
truth  will  no  longer  be  disputed;  therefore  the  proper  ap- 
pellation for  inscriptions  in  such  characters  ought  to  be 
Hierograms,  rather  than  Hieroglyphs.  A  surprising  number 
of  Turkish  gun-boats  were  stationed  opposite  to  this  fort, 
at  the  time  we  passed ;  and  when  the  beautiful  prospect  of 
Rosetta  opened  to  our  view,  the  whole  surface  of  the  river, 
in  front  of  the  town,  appeared  also  covered  with  gun- 
boats and  with  djerms. 

Upon 

(1)  See  p.  304.  Chap.  X.  of  the  last  Volume. 

(2)  See  the  words  of  the  Greek  inscription  upon  that  stone,  TOIC  TE    IEPOII 
TPAMMAIIN. 


CHAP.  I. 


Fort  St. Julian. 


HI  H  ^■■^^H^HI 


■■HHH 


22 


CHAP.  1. 


State  of  Affairs 
in  Rosetta. 


ROSETTA. 

Upon  our  arrival,  at  five  o'clock  p.  m.  we  found  an 
amusing  proof  of  the  effect  of  war  annihilating  all  civil 
distinctions.  The  house  we  had  formerly  occupied  was 
full  of  sailors,  soldiers,  and  other  tenants ;  our  apart- 
ments had  been  converted  into  Charems,  and  were  filled 
with  Georgian,  Circassian,  and  Egyptian  girls ;  these  we 
found  sitting  unveiled  upon  the  floor ;  some  working  em- 
broidery, others  chattering  and  laughing.  One  of  them,  a 
beautiful  female,  taken  from  a  tribe  of  Bedouin  Arabs, 
exhibited  a  fine  countenance  disfigured  with  those  blue 
scars  which  were  described  in  the  account  of  Bethlehem. 
They  were  marks,  as  she  pretended,  which  entitled  her 
to  very  high  consideration  among  the  Arabs  of  the  Desert. 
These  women  had  been  presents  from  the  French  prisoners 
to  the  officers  and  men  of  our  army  and  navy.  They  appeared 
to  be  as  much  at  home,  and  as  tranquil,  in  the  protection 
of  their  new  masters,  as  if  they  had  been  thus  settled  for  life. 
The  most  lamentable  part  of  the  story  is,  that  when  our 
people  were  compelled  to  abandon  them,  they  were  certain 
of  being  murdered  by  the  Mahometans.  A  woman  who  has 
admitted  the  embraces  of  a  Christian  is  never  afterwards 
pardoned.  It  is  lawful,  and  deemed  laudable,  for  the  first 
Turk  or  Arab  who  meets  with  her,  to  put  her  instantly  to 
death.  In  this  scene  of  confusion  we  were  constrained  to 
take  up  our  abode;  there  being  no  alternative,  until  we  could 
complete  our  preparations  for  a  voyage  up  the  Nile  to  Grand 
Cairo.  Indeed,  we  had  reason  to  be  thankful  for  such 
accommodations,  considering  the  disordered  state  of  affairs 
at  that  time  in  Rosetta.      We  hired  a  djerm  the  evening 

of 


ROSETT  A. 


23 


of  our  arrival ;  and  made  application  the  next  day,  August  chap.i. 
Qth,  to  the  Commissary  of  the  army,  for  his  permission 
to  purchase  provisions,  in  the  market.  This  we  had 
great  difficulty  in  obtaining.  The  Commissary  seemed  to 
consider,  and  with  reason  at  that  critical  juncture,  every 
application  which  did  not  relate  to  the  business  of  the  army 
as  an  unwarrantable  intrusion.  Some  degree  of  rudeness, 
however,  in  the  manner  of  his  refusal,  struck  us  the  more 
forcibly,  as  we  had  experienced  the  greatest  civilities  from 
his  worthy  predecessor,  who  had  recently  fallen  a  victim 
to  the  effects  of  the  climate.  Having  urgent  letters  of  re- 
commendation from  the  Commanders-in-chief,  both  of  the 
army  and  of  the  navy,  we  made  our  situation  known  to 
Mr.  Wills,  purser  of  Captain  Russel's  ship  the  Ceres,  then 
acting  as  Commissary  for  the  fleet,  who  interested  himself 
warmly  in  our  behalf.  To  his  kindness  we  were  indebted  for 
being  able  to  prosecute  our  intended  voyage  with  expedition 
as  well  as  with  comfort ;  and,  indeed,  without  his  aid  we 
should  not  have  been  allowed  the  use  even  of  the  djerm 
which  we  had  engaged  for  the  undertaking. 

We  employed  the  remainder  of  this  day  in  fitting  up  a 
kind  of  tent,  or  cabin,  by  means  of  mats  and  the  branches 
of  palm-trees,  upon  the  stern  of  our  vessel,  lining  it  with 
our  mosquitoe-nets,  to  protect  us  from  the  swarm  of  those 
insects  upon  the  river.  The  inundation  had  begun,  and  the 
rapidity  of  the  current  was  thereby  exceedingly  increased. 
The  price  of  every  article  of  provision  had  become  very  high,    Price  oi 

Provisions. 

since  our  last  visit  to  Rosetta.     For  half  a  pound  of  tea  we 
were  obliged  to  pay  near  two  pounds  sterling.    The  difference 

between 


24 


ROSETTA. 


CHAP.  I. 


Manufacture 
of  Coffee. 


between  the  markets  of  this  place  and  Damiata  was 
astonishing,  considering  the  short  distance  that  separated  the 
two  towns.  This  will  appear  in  stating  the  value  of 'a  dollar ; 
which,  in  Rosetta,  was  equivalent,  either  to  half  a  sheep,  or  to 
three  geese,  or  four  fowls,  or  an  hundred  eggs.  In  Damiata, 
for  the  same  sum,  might  be  purchased,  either  two  sheep,  six 
geese,  twelve  fowls,  or  eight  hundred  eggs.  The  coffee  of 
Mocha,  when  Rosetta  was  first  captured,  might  be  obtained 
almost  for  nothing ;  but  it  had  been  all  sold,  and  a  great 
quantity  went  in  presents  to  England.  One  of  the  most 
curious  sights  in  Rosetta  was  the  manufacture  of  this 
article.  After  roasting  the  coffee,  it  is  pounded  in  immense 
iron  mortars ;  three  Arabs  working  at  a  time,  with  enormous 
pestles,  each  as  large  as  a  man  can  raise.  The  capacity  of 
the  bottom  of  the  mortar  being  only  equal  to  the  reception 
of  one  of  these  at  a  time,  the  pestles  are  raised  according 
to  the  measure  of  an  air  sung  by  an  attendant  Arab,  who 
sits  near  the  mortar.  The  main  purport  of  this  curious 
accompaniment  to  their  labour  is,  to  prevent  the  hand  and 
arm  of  a  boy,  kneeling  by  the  mortar,  from  being  crushed 
to  atoms.  The  boy's  arm  is  always  within  the  receiver, 
which,  being  hollowed  in  the  shape  of  a  cone,  allows  room 
for  each  pestle  to  pass  in  turn  without  bruising  him,  if 
he  place  it  in  time  against  the  side  of  the  mortar ;  but, 
as  after  every  stroke  he  must  stir  up  the  powder  at  the 
bottom  with  his  fingers,  if  the  precise  period  of  each  blow 
were  not  marked  by  the  measure  of  the  song,  his  arm  would 
be  struck  off.  Intoxication  happily  is  a  vice  with  which 
the  Arabs  are  unacquainted;  or,  as  the  constant  attention  of 

a  whole 


ROSETTA. 


25 


a  whole  party,  thus  employed,  is  necessary  to  the  safety  of 
the  poor  child,  so  stationed,  it  may  be  conceived  what  the 
consequences  of  drunkenness  would  be,  in  a  manufactory 
where  many  of  these  mortars  are  used.  A  sight  of  this  pro- 
cess is  sufficient  to  explain  the  cause  of  the  very  impalpable 
nature  of  the  powder  used  by  the  Turks  in  their  coffee: 
the  infusion  more  resembles  the  appearance  of  chocolate, 
than  of  coffee  as  we  prepare  it  in  England. 

After  visiting  this  manufactory,  we  went  to  see  a 
building  of  very  great,  although  of  unknown,  antiquity, 
used  as  a  warehouse  for  keeping  stores.  It  has  a  vaulted 
stone  roof,  with  the  remarkable  appearance  of  pointed 
arches,  resulting  from  the  intersection  of  palm-branches: 
the  trunks  of  the  trees,  whence  these  ramifications  pro- 
ceed, beautifully  sculptured,  are  represented  as  stationed  in 
the  four  corners  and  by  the  sides  of  the  vaulted  chamber. 
This  curious  relique  has  never  been  noticed  nor  described  by 
any  author;  therefore  it  is  impossible  to  conjecture  either 
the  age  of  the  building,  or  any  thing  concerning  its  history. 
Quaresmius  is  altogether  silent  upon  the  subject.  He  says 
only  of  antient  Rosetta,  that  it  was  called  Scheida  ;  and  its 
present  appellation,  Raschid,  is  familiar  to  every  school-boy 
acquainted  with  the  entertaining  tales  of  its  Caliph,  Aaron  : 
possibly,  therefore,  the  vaulted  edifice  may  be  referred  to  this 
famous  Sultan  Ilaroun  at  Raschid,  in  the  eighth  century. 
Rosetta  may  soon  become  a  place  of  much  more  importance 
than  it  is  at  present,  in  consequence  of  the  total  cessation 
of  pilgrimages  to  Mecca.  The  Wahabee  Arabs  have  destroyed 
all  the   wells  which    formerly  supplied  the  caravans  with 

vol.  in.  e  water ; 


CHAP.  I. 


Curious  Re 
mains  of 
Pointed 
Arches. 


Probable  Con- 
sequence of 
the  Interrup- 
tion of  Mecca 
Pilgrimage. 


l&~      "<k-> 


'ti£l>'<''± 


26 


CHAP.  I. 


Exhibition  of 
the  Psylli,  or 
Serpent- 
Eaters. 


ROSETTA. 

water;    and  nothing  less  than    an   army   is    necessary   for 

their  restoration1.  Quaresmius,  in  mentioning  the  estimation 

wherein  Rosetta,  as   the  birth-place   of  Mahomet,   is  held 

by  the  Moslems,  long  ago   predicted,    that  whenever  the 

journeys  to  Mecca  were  interrupted,  it  would  become  the 

resort  of  Mahometan  pilgrims'.     For  the  reception  of  such 

a  multitude,  Rosetta  is  much  better  provided  than  Mecca ; 

for  it  is  attested  by  all  travellers3,  and  among  these  by  our 

countryman  Sandys4,  that  "  no  place  under  heaven  is  better 

furnished   with   graine,   flesh,    fish,    sugar,    fruits,   roots," 

together  with  all  other  necessaries  and  luxuries  of  life. 

During  our  former  visit  to  Rosetta,  we  neglected  to 
notice  the  particular  day  of  the  year5  on  which  a  most 
singular   exhibition   of    the    Serpent-eaters,    or   Psylli,    as 

mentioned 


rn  «  It  is  now  five  year?  since  the  Wahabees  have  prevented  the  pilgrims  from  per- 
forming their  journey  to  Mecca.  They  have  destroyed  the  cisterns  in  the  Desert  3  and 
it  is  impossible  to  have  these  repaired  without  sending  an  army  to  protect  the  workmen. 
This  condition  will  hardly  ever  be  fulfilled,  as  there  are  not  more  than  10,000  soldiers 
in  all  Syria;  and  the  Wahabee  Chief  has,  at  any  time,  more  than  100,000  men  mounted 
on  camels,'  at  his  disposal.  The  interruption  of  this  pilgrimage  is  considered  by  the 
Turks  as  a  sign  of  the  approaching  desolation  of  the  Turkish  empire."  MS.  Letter 
from  Burckhardt,  the  African  traveller,  dated  Aleppo,  May  3,  1811. 

(2)  "  Fertur  in  partibus  iUis,  ex  ea  civitate  originem  traxisse  Mahometem,  pseudo-pro- 
phetam  Turcarum  et  aliorum  Infidelium  caput  3  ac  ideb  illam  magni  aestimant.  Quare, 
si  Mecha,  ubi  sepulchrum  dicitur  esse  Mahometis,  a  Christianis  caperetur,  et  ad  illud 
interdicta  esset  ipsorum  peregrinatio,  Rosetum  peregrinarentur."  Quaresm.  Eluc.  T.  S. 
torn.  II.  p.  1008.    Antv.  \63g. 

(3)  "  In  optima  uberique  regione  sita,  omni  bonorum  genere  ad  opulente  tivendum 
afftuente,  carnibus,  piscibus,  fructibus,  &c."     Ibid. 

(4)  Sandys'  Travels,  p.  166.    Lond.  1637- 

(5)  Denonsays  this  exhibition  takes  place  during  the  annual  procession  of  the  Feast 
of  Ibrahim,  at  Rosetta.  He  regretted  not  having  been  there  at  the  time.  See  Venn's 
Travels,  Eng.  Edit.  vol.  I.  p.  123.    Lond.  1803. 


ROSETTA 


mentioned  by  Herodotus8  and  by  many  antient  authors7,  took 
place.  A  tumultuous  throng,  passing  beneath  the  windows 
of  our  house,  attracted  our  attention  towards  the  quay: 
here  we  saw  a  concourse  of  people  following  men  ap- 
parently frantic,  who,  with  every  appearance  of  convul- 
sive agony,  were  brandishing  live  serpents,  and  then  tearing 
them  with  their  teeth  ;  snatching  them  from  each  other's 
m^utns,  with  loud  cries  and  distorted  features,  and  after- 
wards falling  into  the  arms  of  the  spectators,  as  if  swooning; 
the  women  all  the  while  rending  the  air  with  their  lamen- 
tations. Pliny  often  mentions  these  jugglers8;  and  as  their 
tricks  have  been  noticed  by  other  travellers,  it  is  only  now- 
necessary  to  attest  the  existence  of  this  extraordinary  rem- 
nant of  a  very  antient  custom. 


(6)  Herodot.  lib.  iv.  cap.  173. 

(7)  Strabon.  Geog.  lib.xvii.    Lucan.  ix.  vv.  894,  937.     Pausan.  lib.  ix.  c.  14.     Dio 
Cass.  lib.  li.  c.  14.     Aul.  Gell.  lib.  xvi.  c.  11.  &c.  &c. 

(8)  Plin.  Hist.  Nat.  lib.  vii.  c.  2.  lib.  viii.  c.  25.  lib.  xxv.  c.  10.  lib.  xxviii.  c.  3. 


gags    i3^B»?sj£g  smm 


fater  from  tike  Ml« 


CHAP.  II. 


CHAP.  II. 

VOYAGE   UP  THE   NILE  TO   GRAND   CAIRO. 

Example  afforded  by  a  Naval  Officer — Inaccuracy  in  the  Maps  of  Egypt 
— Triple  Harvest  of  the  Delta — Mode  of  raising  Water  from  the  Nile 

—  Summer  Habits  of  the  Egyptian  Arabs — Ficus  Sycamorus — 
Etesian  Winds — Motubis — Dancing  Women — Debe — Sinbion  and 
Derrul — Turkish  Cavalry — Arab  Customs  —  Foua — Rachmanie 
— Description  of  the  Country  —  Diseases — Facility  of  visiting  Upper 
Egypt  —  Koum  Scheriff — Amrus  —  Birds  —  Singular  Animal 
Appearance — Plants — El  Buredgiat — Remarkable  Phenomenon — 
Tumblers — Abundance  of  Corn— Southern  Point  of  the  Delta — 
Arrival  at  Bulac — View  of  the  Pyramids — Visit  to  the  Reis  Effendi 
— House  of  the  French  Institute — Jewel  Market — Interior  of  Cairo — 
Jugglers  —  Trees  —  Incense  —  Gum  Arabic — Plagues  of  Egypt — 
Statistics  of  Cairo — British  Army  from  India — Dinner  given  by  the 
Commander-in-chief— Discovery  made  by  Brahmins  in   Upper  Egypt 

—  Examination  of  an  Abyssinian  concerning  Bruce  s  Travels  — 
Fidelity  of  that  Traveller  s  Observations  confirmed. 

W  e    left     Rosetta    on    Monday,    August    the    tenth,     at 
seven  a.  m.  and  called  upon  Captain  Hill  jar,  who  had  the 

command 


VOYAGE   UP   THE  NILE. 


29 


command  of  some  gun-boats  to  the  south  of  the  town,  and      chap.  ii. 
whom  we  found  stationed  upon  the  river,  on  board  one  of 
those  vessels.     His  late  arduous  services,  in  several  engage-     Example 

afforded  by  a 

merits  with  the  enemy,  were  then  the  subject  of  very  Naval  °fficer- 
general  conversation.  The  Capudan  Pasha,  in  testimony  of 
the  gratitude  of  the  Turkish  Government,  had  conferred 
upon  him  some  trifling  presents.  But  that  which  particularly 
excited  the  wonder  of  all  his  contemporaries,  and  which 
will  convey  the  name  of  Hillyar  to  posterity,  with  honours 
more  lasting  than  even  those  obtained  by  his  valour  and  his 
victories,  was  the  example  offered  by  this  distinguished 
officer  to  the  navies  of  the  world,  in  proving  the  possibility 
of  fighting  the  battles  of  his  country,  and  maintaining  un- 
rivalled discipline  among  his  crew,  without  the  utterance  of 
an  oath  by  any  man  on  board  the  ship  he  commanded. 

We  had  convincing  evidence  of  inaccuracy  in  our  best    Inacc»racyin 

°  J  the  Maps  of 

maps    of   the  Delta,  and   of  the  course  of  the  Nile,  from    E§ypl- 

the   earliest  comparisons  we  made  in  the  country.     That  of 

Kauffer,  published  at  Constantinople  in  1799,   is  extremely 

incorrect ;   but  it  is  less  so  than  preceding  documents.     Soon 

after   leaving   Rosetta,    we   passed  some    extensive    canals, 

conveying  water  to  lands  above  the  level  of  the  river  :  these 

are  supplied  by  wheels,  sometimes  turned  by  oxen,  but  more 

generally   by   buffaloes.     They   are    banked  by   very   lofty 

walls,   constructed  of  mud,  hardened   by  the  sun.     One  of 

them,  upon  the  western  side  of  the  river,  extended   to  the 

Lake  Maadie.    The  land,  thus  watered,  produces  three  crops    TripieHarv^t 

'    of  the  Delta, 

in  each  year ;   the  first  of  clover,  the  second  of  corn,  and 
the  third  of  rice.    The  rice-grounds  are  inundated  from  the 

time 


■ 

I 


30 


CHAP.  II. 


Method  of 
raising  Watei 
from  the 
Nile. 


VOYAGE   UP  THE  NILE 

time  of  sowing  nearly  to  harvest:  the  seed  is  commonly  cast 
upon  the  water,  a  practice  twice  alluded  to  in  Sacred  Scrip- 
ture.   Balaam  prophesied  of  Israel1,  that  "  his  seed  should  be 
in  many  waters."     In  the  directions  given  for  charity  by 
the  son  of  David,  it  is  written2,  "  Cast  thy  bread  upon  the 
waters :  for  thou  shalt  find  it    after  many  days."     When 
the  rice-plants  are  about  two  feet  high,  they  are  transplanted. 
Besides  the  method  of  raising  water  into  the  high  grounds 
near  the  river,  by  means    of  buckets  fastened  to  a  wheel, 
where  the  land  is  not  much  elevated  above  the  surface  of 
the  Nile,   they  use  a   simple,  and  probably  a  very  antient 
contrivance3,  of  lifting  it  in  a  basket  lined  perhaps  with  close 
matting  or  with  leather.     Two  men,  holding  the  basket  be- 
tween them,  by  a  cord  in  each  hand  fastened  to  the  edge  of  it, 
lower  it  into  the  Nile,  and  then  swing  it  between  them  until 
it  acquires  a  velocity  sufficient  to  enable  them  to  throw  the 
water,  over  a  bank,  into  a  canal  near  the  river.    The  regular 
continuance  of  their  motion  gives  them,  at  a  distance,  the 
appearance    of   automaton    figures,    rather   than   of  living 
beings.    They  work  stark  naked,  exposed  to  the  sun's  most 
powerful  rays,    during   the  whole  day ;    repeating  one    of 
their  Arabian   songs  ;  for  they  seem  to  have  a  peculiar  air 
adapted  to  every  labour.    As  to  their  summer  clothing,  when 
,  •   •  they 

(1)  Numbers  xxiv.  7.  (2)  Ecclesiastes  xi.  1. 

(3)  See  the  Pignette  to  this  Chapter.  Those  who  are  interested  in  tracing  resem- 
blances between  the  customs  of  the  Chinese  and  Egyptians,  may  be  informed  that  this 
manner  of  irrigating  land,  which  certainly  possesses  something  of  singularity,  is  practised 
upon  the  rivers  in  China,  without  the  smallest  difference.  An  engraved  represen- 
tation of  it  is  given  in  the  account  of  Lord  Macartney's  Embassy.  See  vol.  II.  p.  35Q. 
Lond.  1797- 


TO   GRAND  CAIRO. 


31 


they  wear  any,  it  consists  only  of  a  blue  cotton  shirt,  ^hap.ii, 
girded  by  a  belt  round  the  waist.  The  Arabs  whom  we 
saw  occasionally  near  the  river,  whether  alone,  or  in  com- 
pany, made  their  appearance  without  any  kind  of  covering. 
Sometimes  they  were  seen  in  parties  of  ten  or  twelve  at 
a  time,  walking  together,  young  and  old,  as  naked  as  they 
were  born,  without  seeming  sensible  of  any  indecency  in 
their  appearance. 

Fahrenheit's  thermometer,  observed  in  the  shade,  this  day 
at  noon,  indicated  a  temperature  of  ninety  degrees.  Our 
course,  by  a  very  good  boat-compass,  given  to  us  by  Captain 
Clarke  of  the  Braakel,  was  at  that  time  south,  half  east.  In 
half  an  hour  we  found  it  to  be  east  and  by  north.  We 
observed  several  trees  of  a  very  singular  form:  they  re- 
sembled, by  the  spreading  of  their  boughs,  the  shape  of 
a  fan,  and  looked  at  a  distance  like  enormous  peacocks  with 
their  tails  expanded.  As  we  drew  near  and  examined  them, 
they  proved    to  be,   every  one  of  them,   the   Ficus  Syca-    FicusSi/ca- 

morus. 

moms,  or  Sycamore  Fig;  and  of  this  species,  although 
so  common  in  Egypt,  there  was  scarcely  a  single  speci- 
men in  any  British  herbary,  until  our  return  to  England. 
It  attains  an  enormous  size  near  Cairo;  particularly  in 
the  Isle  of  Rhouda,  where  some  of  those  trees  appear  larger 
than  the  stateliest  oaks  of  our  forests.  The  fruit  re- 
sembles the  common  fig  in  shape;  but  it  is  smaller,  very  dry, 
insipid,  and  rarely  eaten.  The  peculiar  form  of  the  trees  in 
this  part  of  Egypt  is  owing  entirely  to  the  north  and  north- 
west, or  Etesian  winds,  which  prevail  with  much  violence,  and 
for  a  considerable  length  of  time,  during  the  months  of  July 

and 


Etesian 
Winds. 


mmtOtO^mm 


:'<}i*"'--'*t<<\-r:*.b I 


- 
^^B^H  H3tf9|QiDiQ|Qp9iBPBiO 


PPBIV 


^^^■■MM 


32 


CHAP.  II. 


Motubis. 


Dancing 
Women. 


VOYAGE  UP  THE  NILE 

and  August.  As  this  monsoon  happens  annually,  at  the  period 
of  the  Nile's  inundation,  the  wonderful  advantages  it  offers 
for  the  commerce  of  the  country  exceed  any  thing  perhaps 
known  upon  earth.  A  vessel,  leaving  Rosetta,  is  driven  by 
it  with  extraordinary  velocity  against  the  whole  force  of 
the  torrent  to  Cairo,  or  into  any  part  of  Upper  Egypt.  For 
the  purpose  of  her  return,  with  even  greater  rapidity,  it  is 
only  necessary  to  take  down  mast  and  sails,  and  leave  her 
to  be  carried  against  the  wind  by  the  powerful  current  of 
the  river.  It  is  thus  possible  to  perform  the  whole  voyage, 
from  Rosetta,  to  Bulac  the  quay  of  Cairo,  and  back  again, 
with  certainty,  in  about  seventy  hours  ;v  a  distance  equal 
to  four  hundred  miles1. 

At  half  past  one  p.  m.  we  came  in  view  of  Motubis, 
sometimes  written  Metubis,  or  Mctabis*,  famous  or  infamous 
for  those  dancing  women  called  Almchs,  which  however 
are  common  in  most  parts  of  Egypt.  When  the  French 
army  marched  to  Cairo,  General  Menou  halted  here,  in  the 
true  spirit  of  French  licentiousness,  pretending  business 
with  the  Sheiks,  but  in  reality  to  gratify  himself  and  his 
soldiers  by  the  disgusting  exhibition  of  these  prostitutes. 
The  Sheiks  of  the  place  wished  to  be  spared,  even  in 
Motubis,  the  degradation  attending  a  public  display  of 
these  dances,  and  raised  difficulties  against  their  attendance ; 
but,    says  Denon3,    "  the    presence    of  the  generals,    and 

especially 


(1)  Shaw   makes  the  distance  from  Rosetta  to  Cairo   equal  to  200  miles.     See 
Shaw's  Travels,  p.  294.    Lond.  1757- 

(2)  See  Denon's  Traveis,  vol.  I.  p.  77-    Lond.  1803.  (3)  Ibid.  p.  7B. 


TO   GRAND   CAIRO. 


33 


Dibt. 


especially  of  two  hundred  soldiers,  removed  the  obstacles." 
In  order  to  heighten  the  dissoluteness  of  this  Canopic  festival, 
brandy  was  administered  to  the  women  in  large  glasses, 
which,  says  the  same  writer,  they  drank  like  lemonade.  If, 
therefore,  in  the  scene  that  followed,  something  revolting, 
even  to  the  feelings  of  a  French  army,  ensued,  it  should  have 
been  deemed  rather  characteristic  of  the  Parisian  rabble- 
ment  who  were  present,  than  of  the  natural  habits  of  the 
people  of  the  country.  As  we  approached  Motubis,  our 
course  altered  from  south-east  to  south-west.  According 
to  KaufFer's  map,  the  course  is  south-east  towards  this  place 
from  Rosetta.  We  arrived  at  two  o'clock  p.  m.  and  ob- 
served here  some  troops  of  English  cavalry  ;  but  continued 
our  voyage  without  landing.  Opposite  to  the  town  of 
Motubis,  but  farther  towards  the  south,  stands  Deb6.  The 
generality  of  these  towns  upon  the  banks  of  the  Nile  are 
small,  but  there  is  a  pleasing  variety  in  their  appearance ; 
for  they  have  no  resemblance  to  each  other,  although  all  of 
them  are  shaded  by  groves  of  date  and  sycamore.  We 
passed  Sindion  and  T>erruly  two  towns  opposite  to  each 
other,  on  different  sides  of  the  river.  At  Sindion  we  had  the 
pleasing  sight  of  a  party  of  Turkish  cavalry  upon  their 
march  ;  and  were  awhile  amused  by  considering  the  grati-  Cavalry 
fication  their  appearance  would  afford,  if  we  could  have 
removed  them,  in  their  full  costume,  to  one  of  the  London 
theatres.  They  had  their  colours  flying  ;  yellow  and  green. 
Passing  through  the  villages,  they  continued  to  beat  small 
kettle-drums ;  proceeding  always  by  a  sluggish  pace,  with 
their  knees  up  to  their  chins,  evidently  annoyed  by  a 
vol.  in.  f  situation 


CHAP  TI. 


Sindion  and 
Derrill. 


Turkish 


« 


Ya^JA*?^*1'  '^'A^SftWf**^ 


34  VOYAGE  UP  THE  NILE 

chap.  ii.      situation  so  hostile   to  their  natural  indolence   as   that  in 
which  a  certain  degree  of  active  exertion  was  unavoidable. 
Their  ludicrous  appearance  was  a  source  of  mirth  to  the 
cavalry  of  the  French  army,  even  in  the  heat  of  battle ; 
among  whom  the  order  of  a  charge  was  frequently  expressed, 
with  their  natural  levity,  by  the  words  "  Bas  les  PastequesT 
Down  ivith  the  Water-melons  I  alluding  to  the  appearance 
presented  by  the  bulky  swathing  of  their  large  turbans, 
which  give  to  their  heads  something  of  a  similitude  to  that 
enormous  kind  of  fruit ;  and  it  was  a  sound  of  which  the 
Moslems  rarely  awaited  the  result,  but  fled  as  soon  as  they 
heard  it,  in  the  utmost  disorder. 
\rab  custom*.  The  Arab  crew  of  our  boat  washed  their  hands,  faces, 

and  teeth,  before  and  after  eating ;  cleaning  their  teeth 
with  wood  ashes,  which  they  collected  for  that  purpose 
from  the  fire  for  boiling  our  kettle.  The  common  fuel  used 
by  the  inhabitants  of  the  country  is  prepared  from  a 
mixture  of  camel's  dung,  mud,  and  straw:  these  ingredients, 
being  mixed  as  a  paste,  they  collect  into  balls,  which  are 
flattened  upon  the  walls  of  their  huts  for  drying  in  the 
sun,  and  made  into  circular  cakes.  From  the  ashes  of 
those  cakes  the  Muriat  of  Ammonia  is  obtained,  which 
is  afterwards  sent  to  Europe.  The  process  is  briefly  and 
perspicuously  described  by  Shaw,  in  the  Appendix  to  his 
Travels1.     About  four  miles  to  the  south  of  Sindion,  the 

Nile 


(1)  Collectanea,  No.  X.  p.  480.    Sbaw's  Travels.  Lond.l757> 


TO  GRAND   CAIRO. 

Nile  had  overflowed  its  banks,  and  was  making  rapid  pro- 
gress over  the  adjoining  fields.  It  began  to  rise  upon  the 
seventeenth  day  of  June.  The  canal  of  Cairo  was  cut  upon 
the  eighth  of  August,  the  day  of  our  arrival  at  Rosetta  from 
the  Holy  Land,  with  the  usual  observance  of  public  festivity ; 
the  Nile  having  then  attained  its  proper  height.  After  this, 
all  the  banks  were  cut,  and  dykes  opened,  to  receive  the 
inundation,  from  Cairo  to  the  sea2.  Our  course  here  was 
e.  n.  e.  towards  the  village  of  Foua,  falsely  marked  as  a 
town  in  all  the  maps.  Soon  afterwards  we  steered  south- 
east, and  passed  that  village.  It  is  opposite  to  Rachmanie, 
now  celebrated  as  the  scene  of  action  between  our  troops  and 
those  of  the  enemy  under  General  Le  Grange.  This  officer 
was  raised  by  Buonaparte  from  the  ranks :  high  respect  is  due 
to  him  for  his  conduct  upon  many  occasions ;  but,  in  par- 
ticular, for  his  subsequent  humane  and  exemplary  treatment 
of  the  wife  of  one  of  our  commanders  in  the  West  Indies,  who 
became  his  prisoner  while  her  husband  was  engaged  with 
him  in  the  warmest  hostilities.  If  it  be  a  Christian  duty  to 
love  our  enemies,  it  is  doubly  incumbent  upon  every  English- 
man to  cherish  the  memory  of  actions  which  thus  exalt  the 

character 


35 


CHAP.  II. 


(2)  The  Reader  may  perhaps  be  curious  to  know  what  the  symptoms  are  in  th'e  Nile 
(when  at  the  lowest  ebb)  denoting  the  incipient  flood.  We  were  in  Rosetta  at  the 
precise  period  for  making  the  observation.  This  happened  upon  the  sixteenth  of  May. 
For  several  days  before,  the  water  in  the  river  was  very  shallow,  and  seemed  to  stagnate. 
The  smell  of  it  was  like  that  of  an  unwholesome  pool,  and  its  surface  became  partly 
covered  with  a  green  slime.  By  attentively  observing  it  about  this  time,  a  number  of 
little  whirlpools,  not  more  than  an  inch  in  diameter,  might  be  occasionally  noticed, 
suddenly  becoming  visible,  and  as  suddenly  disappearing.  The  Arabs  pointed  to  these 
as  the  earliest  indications  oi  the  coming  flood. 


mm^s^mtiimms^^ 


36 


Description 
of  the 
Country. 


VOYAGE  UP  THE  NILE 

character  of  a  soldier  to  that  of  a  hero.    The  English  flag 
was  flying  upon  the  castle  of  the  fortress  of  Rachmanie  ;  and 
a  party  of  our  troops  was  stationed  there,  to  guard  the  town. 
We  spoke  to  some  Irish  soldiers,  asking  them  the  hour ;  and 
were  much  amused  by  the  reply :  "  To  be  sure,  at  sun-set 
is  it  not  half  past  four?"     Opposite  to  Rachmanie  there  is 
a  small  island,  in  the  middle  of  the  river.     A  laro-e  vessel 
with  three  masts  was  stationed  near  the  town.    The  Nile  is 
here  very  broad,  and  the  current  was  at  this  time  prodigiously 
rapid ;  yet  the  force  of  the  Etesian  wind  enabled  us  to  stem 
it,  and  to  proceed  with  very  great  velocity.     Villages,  in  an 
almost  uninterrupted  succession,   denoted  a   much   greater 
population   than  we  had   imagined   the  country  contained. 
Upon    each    side   of  the    river,    as    far   as    the    eye    could 
survey,  were  rich  fields  of  corn  and  rice,  with   such  beau- 
tiful groves,    seeming  to  rise  out  of  the  watery  plains,  and 
to    shade    innumerable    settlements    in    the    Delta,    amidst 
never-ending  plantations  of  melons  and  all  kinds  of  garden 
vegetables,  that,  from  the  abundance  of  its  produce,  Egvpt 
may  be  deemed  the  richest  country  in  the  world.     Such  is 
the  picture   exhibited    to   the  native   inhabitants,    who  are 
seasoned   to   withstand   the   disorders   of  the  country,   and 
can   bear    with    indifference   the   attacks  of  myriads  of  all 
sorts   of  noxious  animals ;   to  whom  mud  and  mosquitoes, 
or  dust  and  vermin,  are  alike  indifferent ;  who,  having  never 
experienced  one  comfortable  feeling  in   the   midst  of  their 
highest  enjoyments,  nor  a  single  antidote  to  sorrow  in  the 
depths   of  wretchedness,  vegetate,    like    the    bananas   and 
sycamores  around  them.     But  to  strangers,  and  particularly 

to 


TO   GRAND   CAIRO. 


37 


CHAP.  II. 


to  inhabitants  of  Northern  countries,  where  wholesome 
air  and  cleanliness  are  among  the  necessaries  of  life,  Egypt 
is  the  most  detestable  region  upon  earth.  Upon  the  retiring 
of  the  Nile,  the  country  is  one  vast  swamp.  An  atmosphere, 
impregnated  with  every  putrid  and  offensive  exhalation, 
stagnates,  like  the  filthy  pools  over  which  it  broods.  Then 
the  plague  regularly  begins,  nor  ceases  until  the  waters  Diseases. 
return  again1.  Throughout  the  spring,  intermitting  fevers 
universally  prevail.  About  the  beginning  of  May  certain  winds 
cover  even  the  sands  of  the  desert  with  the  most  disgusting 
vermin*.  The  latest  descendants  of  Pharaoh  are  not  yet 
delivered  from  the  evils  which  fell  upon  the  land,  when  it 
was  smitten  by  the  hands  of  Moses  and  Aaron:  the  "  plague 
of  fro<rs,"  the  "  plague  of  lice,"  "the  plague  of  flies,"  the 
"murrain,  boils,  and  blains, "  prevail,  so  that  the  whole 
country  is    "corrupted,"   and   "the  dust    of  the   earth 

BECOMES    LICE,    UPON  MAN      AND     UPON     BEAST,      THROUGHOUT 

the  land  of  Egypt."  This  application  of  the  words  of 
Scripture  affords  a  literal  exposition  of  existing  facts ;  such 
an  one  as  the  statistics  of  the  country  do  now  warrant2.  In 
justification  of  this  statement,  it  is  only  necessary  to  appeal 
to   the   testimony  of  all   those  who   have   resided    in    the 

country 


(1)  General  Le  Grange  assured  us,  when  on  board  the  Braakel,  that  the  ravages  in 
the  French  army,  caused  by  the  plague  during  the  month  of  April,  at  one  time  amounted 
to  an  hundred  men  in  a  single  day. 

(2)  Sir  Sidney  Smith  informed  the  Author,  that  one  night,  preferring  a  bed  upon  the 
sand  of  the  desert  to  a  night's  lodging  in  the  village  of  Etko,  as  thinking  to  be  secure 
from  vermin,  he  found  himself,  in  the  morning,  entirely  covered  by  them.  Lice 
and  scorpions  abound  in  all  the  sandy  desert  near  Alexandria. 


,*^:£*£«M?         ^^H    fy***/*^**?.?. 


38 


CHAP.  II. 


Facility  of 
visiting 
Upper  Egypt. 


VOYAGE   UP  THE  NILE 

country  during  the  very  opposite  seasons  of  its  prosperity 
and  privation ;  during  the  inundation,  and  when  the  flood 
has  retired  ;  or  before  it  takes  place,  in  the  beginning  of  the 
year.  At  the  period  of  the  overflow,  persons  who  drink 
the  water  become  subject  to  the  disorder  called  "  prickly 
heat:"  this  often  terminates  in  those  dreadful  wounds 
alluded  to  in  Scripture,  by  the  words  "  boils  and  blains." 
During  the  months  of  June,  July,  and  August,  many  indi- 
viduals are  deprived  of  sight,  by  a  disease  of  the  eyes  peculiar 
to  this  country,  and  which,  having  no  other  name  for, 
Europeans  have  called  Ophthalmia,  from  the  organs  it  af- 
flicts. There  was  hardly  an  individual  who  did  not  suffer, 
more  or  less,  the  consequences  of  this  painful  malady.  It 
commences  with  a  sensation  as  if  grains  of  sand  had  been 
blown  into  the  eyes,  which  no  care  can  remove1.  At  this 
season,  also,  the  dysentery  begins  to  number  its  victims ;  and 
although  some  are  fortunate  enough  to  escape  the  worst 
effects  of  this  disorder,  it  proves  fatal  in  many  instances4. 
A  traveller  may  escape  most  of  these  evils  by  proper  atten- 
tion :  and  if  he  visit  the  country  so  as  to  profit  by  the 
Etesian  winds  at  the  time  of  the  inundation,  and  hires  a 
djerm  for  his  constant  residence  upon  the  river,  he  may 

venture 

(1)  It  is  said  even  yet  to  exist  in  this  country,  as  a  contagious  disorder  brought  by 
our  army  from  Egypt. 

(2)  The  best  remedies  for  this  terrible  complaint  are,  first  a  swathing  of  flannel,  in 
many  folds,  about  the  abdomen ;  and,  secondly,  a  drink  of  water,  in  which  rice  has 
been  boiled,  carefully  strained  from  the  grains  of  rice,  which  should  not  be  eaten. 
The  very  worst  effects  may  be  apprehended  from  brandy,  or  any  of  those  heating- 
cordials  usually  administered,  by  ignorant  people,  upon  these  occasions.  Rice-water  and 
abstemious  diet  is  the  cure  resorted  to  by  the  Arabs  themselves. 


TO   GRAND   CAIRO. 


39 


venture  into  Upper  Egypt,  and  visit  Thebes  with  greater  ,  chap.il 
ease  and  comfort  than  he  ever  performed  any  other  expe- 
dition. The  never-failing  monsoon  will  carry  him  along, 
sitting  in  a  cool  and  comfortable  cabin,  with  every  conveni- 
ence for  reading  or  writing,  for  food,  or  rest;  and  the 
current  of  the  river  alone  will  operate  as  favourably  for  his 
return.  We  considered  the  time  we  passed  upon  the  Nile 
as  the  most  pleasing  part  of  all  our  travels ; — that  which  was 
required  by  our  residence  on  shore  the  most  disagreeable  ; 
notwithstanding  the  very  commodious  lodgings  we  had, 
whether  in  the  cities  of  Rosetta,  Cairo,  or  Alexandria. 

After  passing  Rachmanie,  darkness  compelled  us  to  take 
leave  of  the  very  interesting  landscape  which  had  continually 
gratified  us  during  the  day.  We  continued  sailing  almost 
the  whole  night,  under  the  care  and  guidance  of  our  steady 
pilot  at  the  helm,  who,  as  captain  of  the  djerm,  remained 
at  his  post  until  morning  dawned.  Four  men  besides  him- 
self constituted  the  whole  crew ;  these  were  all  Arabs. 
During  the  time  they  remained  in  our  service,  we  found 
them  diligent,  industrious,  faithful,  always  sober,  obliging, 
and  skilful  in  the  management  of  their  vessel.  When  day- 
light appeared,  upon  Saturday,  August  the  eleventh,  they 
told  us  they  had  anchored  for  some  time  at  a  village,  fear- 
ful of  being  boarded  by  pirates  during  the  extreme  darkness 
that  prevailed,  especially  as  the  light  burning  in  our  cabin 
rendered  the  djerm  visible  from  the  sides  of  the  river. 
About  eight  o'clock  a.  m.  we  reached  a  miserable  town,  called 
Koum  or  Komme  ScJieriff,  built  entirely  with  mud.  Soon  KoumScher;//. 
afterwards  we  passed  the  town  of  Amrus,  also  constructed    Amrw. 

of 


wmmmmm$mB" 


i&iii£ty'i&irZ,AiZf*i,£i* 


wmm 


mm 


40 


CHAP.  If. 


Birds. 


VOYAGE  UP  THE  NILE 

of  mud,  and  containing  a  number  of  tall  and  large  cones, 
built  in  the  same  manner,  and  serving  as  pigeon-houses  : 
these  have  a  singular  appearance  in  the  approach  to  the  place. 
Pigeon's  dung,  everywhere  valuable  as  manure,  is  here  an 
important  acquisition  ;  for  by  mixing  it  with  the  sand  upon 
the  little  islands  left  by  the  torrent  in  the  midst  of  the  river, 
a  soil  is  formed,  capable  of  producing  water-melons1. 

The  birds  which  frequent  the  Nile,  if  we  except  the 
account  given  by  Hasselquist2,  are  but  little  known,  and 
our  observations  will  add  nothing  to  this  deficiency  in 
ornithology.  A  most  superb  collection  was,  however, 
forwarded  to  England  under  the  patronage  and  by  the  im- 
mediate orders  of  Lord  Hutchinson.  It  had  been  formed, 
with  consummate  skill  and  labour,  by  a  person  of  the  name 
of  Savigny.  We  principally  noticed  pelicans,  from  the  mouth 
of  the  Nile,  as  far  as  Rachmanie.  The  Sterna  Ntlotica,  or 
Egyptian  sea-swallow,  appeared,  in  immense  flocks,  near  the 
sides  of  the  river.  Afterwards  we  saw  many  beautiful  birds, 
of  which  we  were  entirely  ignorant ;  particularly  one  of 
the  plover  kind,  whose  plumage  exhibited  the  most  lively 
and  variegated  colours1.  The  pigeon-cones  increased  very 
much  after  passing  Amrus,  almost  every  village  being 
furnished  with  them.  The  buffaloes,  swimming  about  in 
the  Nile,  afford  a  singular  sight,  with  their  black  muzzles 

sticking 


(1)  See  also  Baron  de  Tott's  Memoirs,  vol.11,  p.  248.  Lond.  1/85. 

(2)  See  Travels,  p.  1Q3.  Lond.  1766. 

(3)  Probably  the  "  Tringa  jEgyptiaca"  of  Linnaeus,  "  longirostris,  fusco  allidoque 
variegata."     See  Hasselq.  Trav.  p.  199. 


TO    GRAND    CAIUO. 


41 


sticking  out  of  the  water,  and  snorting  as  they  cross  from    v  ,CHAP-  "• 

side  to  side ;  all  the  rest   of  their  bodies  being  concealed. 

But  the  most  remarkable  animal  appearance  may  be  noticed    singular 

1  L  \  Animal  Ap 

bv  merely  dipping  a  ladle  or  bucket  into  the  midst  of  the  pea«mce. 
torrent,  which  is  everywhere  dark  with  mud,  and  observing 
the  swarms  of  animalcuke  it  contains.  Among  these, 
tadpoles  and  young  frogs  are  so  numerous,  that,  rapid  as  the 
current  flows,  there  is  no  part  of  the  ^ile  where  the  water 
does  not  contain  them.  The  additions  to  our  herbary  were  Plants. 
not  of  any  importance  ;  for  the  season  was  too  far  ad- 
vanced \    The  rice-plants,  however,  may  be  excepted ;  these 

had 

(4)  In  the  account  of  our  journey  from  Aboukir  to  Rosetta,  (See  Chap  IX.  Vol.  II) 
five  new  species  were  omitted,  which  may  be  noticed  here,  although  perhaps  not  found 
so  hi°"h  up  the  Nile.  The  first  genus  is  not  mentioned  in  Professor  Martyn's  edition 
of  Miller's  Dictionary. 

I.  A  non-descript  grass,  being  a  new  species  of  Polypogon  ;  growing  in  little  tufts, 
about  two  inches  high.  We  have  called  it  Polypogon  pumilum.  (See  the  character 
of  this  genus  in  the  Flora  Atlantica  of  M.  Desfontaines,  Protessor  of  Botany 
in  the  Museum  of  Natural  History  at  Paris.)  This  was  found  near  Rosetta.  Poly- 
pogon pumilum,  paniculd  ovata  coarctata,  aristis  calyce  hirsuto  fere  duplo  longiori- 
bus.  Radix  annua  fibrosa.  Culmi  numerosi  gcniculati,  fere  ad  apices  foliosi.  Folia 
glabriuscula  striata,  longh  vaginantia,  supra  plana,  patenlia.  Stipulce  laceratce, 
nitidce.  Paniculce  incequales,  superiores  lineas  sex  ad  novem  longce ;  inferiores 
dimidio  minores. 
[I.  A  non-descript  species  of  Lotus,  with  shining  silky  leaves,  very  closely  crowded 
together  towards  the  tops  of  the  branches.  We  have  called  it  Lotus  polyphyllus. 
This  was  found  between  Aboukir  and  Rosetta,  in  the  month  of  April.  Lotus  caule 
suffrutescente  ramoso,  foliis  lineari-parabolicis  olliquis,  imbricatis,  sericeis,  nitidis 
intemodiis  longioribus ;  floribus  subternis ;  leguminibus  glabris  calyce  hirsutissimo 
paulo  longioribus.  Rami  adscendentes  flexuosi,  deorsum  e  casu  fuiiorum  cicatriabus 
notati  nudi ;  supradense  folios i,  hirsuti.  Fo/iola  lineas  tres  longa,  utrinuue  sericea. 
Stipulce  foliolis  simil/imte.  Flores  foliis  par  urn  longiores,  interdum  solitarii. 
Legumina  turgida  stylo  persistente  coronata. 
III.  A  magnificent  non-descript  species  of  Orobanche,  with  a  furrowed  scaly  stem, 
and  a  close  spike  of  flowers  about  three  inches  broad,  and  above  a  foot  in  height. 
vol.  m.  «  We 


42 


CHAP.  II. 


VOYAGE  UP  THE  NILE 


had  not  attained  maturity,  being  now  about  two  feet  in 
height.  They  resembled  a  species  of  Typlia,  common  in 
large  ponds  in  the  south  of  England,  vulgarly  called  flags, 
as  these  appear,  when  young,  rising  from  the  water.  We 
made  the  usual  observation  upon  Fahrenheit's  thermometer, 
EiBuredgiat.  at  noon,  just  before  arriving  at  El  Burcdgiat,  and  found  the 
temperature  equal  to  that  of  the  former  day;  ninety  degrees. 
This  village  is  placed  accurately  in  KaurFer's  map.  We 
steered  south-east  and  by  south.  Proceeding  towards  Nadir, 
the  course  altered,  and  we  steered  due  east.     The  river  here 

appeared 


'  We  have  called  it  Orobanche  insignis.  This  was  also  found  between  Aboukir 
and  Rosetta,  at  the  same  time.  Orobanche,  caule  simplici,  corollis  infiatis,  recurvis, 
quinquefidis ,  laciniis  integerrimis,  calycibus  quinquepartitis,  bracteis  ternis  quater- 
nisve,  spica  imbricata,  oblungd,  crassissima  ;  antheris  hirsutis. 

IV.  A  non-descript  shrubby  species  of  Salsola,  belonging  to  that  division  of  the  genus 
called  Sueda  by  Forskahl  and  Pallas,  and  distinguished  principally  by  the  want  of 
the  membranaceous  wing  to  the  calyx.  The  species  is  very  much  branched,  with 
the  bark  of  an  ash  colour ;  the  smaller  branches  very  leafy  ;  the  leaves  two  to  three 
lines  long,  a  little  convex  below  ;  the  flowers  are  attended  by  three  small  bracts, 
and  generally  ternate,  but  are  found  also  solitary  j  the  seeds  black  and  shining, 
very  small.  We  have  called  it  Salsola  nitida.  This  was  found  in  the  neighbour- 
hood of  Rosetta.    Salsola  fruticosa,  foliis  ovatis  supra  planiusculis ,  glabris,  obtusis ; 

floribus  axillaribus  sub  ternis  ;  calycibus  Jructiferis  inappendiculatis ,  conniventibus ; 
seminibus  reniformibus  turgidis. 

V.  A  non-descript  species  of  Wall-flower,  (Cheiranthus  Linn.)  the  short  stems  of 
which  spread  upon  the  ground,  and  seldom  extend  beyond  the  radical  leaves  : 
these  measure  two  and  a  half  or  three  inches  in  length ';  the  flowers  in  loose  racemes, 
with  purple  petals,  broad  and  notched  at  the  end,  and  interwoven  with  dark  veins } 
the  pods  compressed,  an  inch  to  an  inch  and  a  half  in  length,  with  a  large  three- 
cornered  head,  and  thinly  covered  (like  every  part  of  the  plant,  the  petals,  stamens, 
and  roots  excepted)  with  white  forky  hairs.  We  have  called  it  Cheiranthus 
humilis.  This  grew  in  the  neighbourhood  of  Rosetta.  Cheiranthus  pubescens, 
humilis ;  pilis  dichotomis ;  foliis  anguslis  elongatis  omnibus  pinnatifidis ;  siliauis 
compressis,  linearibus,  tricuspidatis  calycibusque  pubescentibus. 


TO    GRAND    CAIRO. 


4cz 
o 


appeared  like  an  immense  lake.  A  singular  phenomenon 
engrossed  all  our  attention.  One  of  those  immense  columns 
of  sand,  mentioned  by  Bruce,  came  rapidly  towards  us, 
turning  upon  its  base  as  upon  a  pivot :  it  crossed  the  Nile 
so  near  us,  that  the  whirlwind  by  which  it  was  carried 
placed  our  vessel  upon  its  beam-ends,  bearing  its  large  sail 
quite  into  the  water,  and  nearly  upsetting  the  boat.  As  we 
were  engaged  in  righting  the  vessel,  the  column  disappeared. 
It  is  not  probable  that  those  columns  fall  suddenly  upon 
any  particular  spot,  so  as  to  be  capable  of  overwhelming 
an  army  or  a  caravan ;  but  that,  as  the  sand,  thus  driven,  is 
gradually  accumulated,  it  becomes  gradually  dispersed,  and, 
the  column  diminishing  in  its  progress,  at  length  disappears. 
A  great  quantity  of  sand  is  no  doubt  precipitated  as  the  effect 
which  gathers  it  becomes  weaker  ;  but,  from  witnessing  such 
phenomena  upon  a  smaller  scale,  it  does  not  seem  likely 
that  the  whole  body  of  the  sand  is  at  once  abandoned. 

Parties  of  young  Arabs  continually  accompanied  our  djerm 
this  day,  running  along  the  banks  of  the  river,  and  tumbling, 
to  obtain  a  few  paras,  as  we  see  children  in  many  parts  of 
England ;  sometimes  walking  upon  their  hands,  with  their 
heels  in  the  air;  at  others,  whirling  upon  their  hands  and 
feet,  to  imitate  the  motion  of  a  wheel.  Judging  from  the 
appearance  these  presented,  the  Arab  complexion,  at  a  very 
early  age,  is  tawny,  and  almost  black.  They  swim  and  dive 
remarkably  well;  but  these  are  arts  in  which  all  Oriental 
nations  excel  those  of  the  Western  world.  About  three 
leagues  before  our  arrival  at  Kafrakadia,  there  was  such  an 

amazing 


CHAP.  II. 


Remarkable 
Phamomenon. 


Tumblers. 


JifWiWShMfei^jWSWr*^ 


44 


VOYAGE  UP  THE  NILE 


CHAP.  II. 


Abundance 
of  Corn. 


Southern 
Point  of  the 
Delta. 


Arrival  at 
BulAc. 


View  of  the 
Pyramids. 


amazing  quantity  of  corn  formed  into  heaps  near  the  river, 
that  it  extended  nearly  to  the  length  of  a  mile.  At  this 
last-mentioned  place  there  was  a  manufactory  for  extracting 
a  dark  blue  dye  from  the  indigo  plant.  Here  girls  of  four- 
teen or  fifteen  years  of  age  walked  the  streets,  with  jars  of 
water  upon  their  heads,  perfectly  naked.  Our  course  latterly 
had  varied  occasionally  from  s.  e.  to  s.  w.  At  half  past  six 
p.  m.  we  reached  that  part  of  the  Nile  where  the  river  divides, 
so  as  to  inclose  the  Delta  by  the  Rosetta  and  Damiata 
branches.  Its  appearance  above  the  point  of  separation 
was  truly  noble,  being  at  this  time  three  miles  wide.  The 
village  or  town  of  Beersamps  stands  upon  the  southern  point 
of  the  Delta.  Koutomey  is  upon  the  western  side  of  the 
main  river,  and  Kafranamooh  upon  the  eastern.  After  we 
had  passed  the  point  of  Beersamps,  our  course  along  the 
undivided  bed  of  the  Nile  was  s.  e.  We  arrived  at  Bulac 
at  midnight ;  having  thus  performed  a  voyage  from  Rosetta 
to  the  quay  of  Cairo  in  thirty-six  hours,  against  the  utmost 
force  and  rapidity  of  the  torrent. 

On  Wednesday,  the  twelfth  of  August,  we  were  roused, 
as  soon  as  the  sun  dawned,  by  Antony,  our  faithful  Greek 
servant  and  interpreter,  with  the  intelligence  that  the 
Pyramids  were  in  view.  We  hastened  from  the  cabin  ; — 
and  never  will  the  impression  made  by  their  appearance 
be  obliterated.  By  reflecting  the  sun's  rays,  they  ap- 
peared as  white  as  snow,  and  of  such  surprising  mag- 
nitude, that  nothing  we  had  previously  conceived  in  our 
imagination  had  prepared  us  for  the  spectacle  we  beheld. 

The 


TO    GRAND    CAIRO. 

The  sight  instantly  convinced  us  that  no  power  of  de- 
scription, no  delineation,  can  convey  ideas  adequate  to  the 
effect  produced  in  viewing  these  stupendous  monuments. 
The  formality  of  their  structure  is  lost  in  their  prodigious 
magnitude :  the  mind,  elevated  by  wonder,  feels  at  once  the 
force  of  an  axiom,  which,  however  disputed,  experience 
confirms, — that  in  vastness,  whatsoever  be  its  nature,  there 
dwells  sublimity1.  Another  proof  of  their  indescribable 
power  is,  that  no  one  ever  approached  them  under  other 
emotions  than  those  of  terror ;  which  is  another  principal 
source  of  the  sublime2.  In  certain  instances  of  irritable 
feeling,  this  impression  of  awe  and  fear  has  been  so  great, 
as  to  cause  pain  rather  than  pleasure5;  of  which  we  shall 
have  to  record  a  very  striking  instance  in  the  sequel.  Hence, 
perhaps,  have  originated  descriptions  of  the  Pyramids  which 
represent  them  as  deformed  and  gloomy  masses,  without 
taste  or  beauty.      Persons  who  have  derived  no  satisfaction 

from 


45 


CHAP.  II. 


(1)  "  Sublime  objects  are  vast  in  their  dimensions."  Burke  on  the  Sublime,  &c. 
Sect.  27.  Part 3.  p.  237.  Lond.  1782. 

(2)  Ibid. 

(3)  Confirming,  in  a  striking  manner,  these  words  of  Burke,  concerning  the  dis- 
tinctions of  greatness  and  beauty:  "  They  are  indeed  ideas  of  a  very  different  nature; 
one  being  founded  on  pain,  the  other  on  pleasure.''  (Ibid.)  Having  referred  to 
the  opinions  of  this  truly  great  philosopher,  upon  a  subject  so  interesting  to  every 
reflecting  mind,  it  may  not  be  unseasonable  to  insert  here  a  brief  comparison  between 
the  theories  of  Longinus  and  Burke.  There  appears  to  be  as  much  difference  in  them 
as  between  mechanism  and  intellect ;  between  the  operations  of  a  piece  of  clock-work 
and  those  of  human  reason.  Longinus  directs  us  to  the  effects  of  the  sublime  ;  Burke 
points  out  its  causes.  Longinus  teaches  us  to  seek  for  the  subMme  without  us;  Burke,  to 
create  it  within  ourselves.  Longinus  views  it  in  its  broad  and  well-known  channel; 
Burke  conducts  us  to  its  source. 


Warn    DBH  TiCTfiTPinTfTifir;i ■-••■'-•  '-'-'-  * ■■■ 


DanaaaBBaaaBBBB 


46' 


CHAP.  II. 


Visit  to  the 
Reis  Effeudi. 


House  of  the 

French 

Institute. 


GRAND    CAIRO. 

from  the  contemplation  of  them,  may  not  have  been 
conscious  that  the  uneasiness  they  experienced  was  a  result 
of  their  own  sensibility.  Others  have  acknowledged  ideas 
widely  different,  excited  by  every  wonderful  circumstance  of 
character  and  of  situation ; — ideas  of  duration,  almost  endless ; 
of  power,  inconceivable  ;  of  majesty,  supreme  ;  of  solitude, 
most  awful ;  of  grandeur,  of  desolation,  and  of  repose. 

As  soon  as  we  landed,  we  met  several  officers  from  India, 
belonging  to  the  sixty-first  regiment,  then  stationed  in  the 
Isle  of  Rhouda,  in  the  Nile ;  where  the  Indian  army  was 
encamped.  They  had  been,  upon  asses,  to  Cairo.  We 
profited  by  their  return,  to  hire  the  same  animals,  with  their 
drivers,  in  order  to  be  conducted  to  the  house  of  the  Reis 
Effendi.  The  Reis  understood  something  of  the  English 
language,  and  spoke  French  remarkably  well.  He  had  been 
in  England ;  and  had  written  a  work  upon  the  manufactures, 
manners,  customs,  and  laws  of  Great  Britain.  Of  this 
curious  document  we  never  could  obtain  a  sight,  although 
it  is  often  sold,  among  the  other  manuscripts,  by  the 
booksellers  in  Cairo  and  Constantinople.  Perhaps  he 
did  not  choose  to  make  our  countrymen  at  that  time 
acquainted  with  his  sentiments  upon  these  subjects.  He 
told  us,  he  found  every  thing  very  good  in  London, 
especially  veal  and  cyder,  but  that  nothing  was  cheap. 
We  gave  him  a  letter  from  the  Capudan  Pasha,  and  he 
promised  to  render  us  all  the  service  in  his  power.  His 
janissaries  conducted  us,  at  our  request,  to  Colonel  Holloway, 
who,  with  Major  Hope,  and  other  officers  of  the  artillery, 
were  quartered  in  a  large  building,  where  the  French  Members 

of 


GRAND    CAIRO. 

of  the  Institute  held  their  sittings  during  the  time  they 
were  in  possession  of  Cairo.  Having  presented  our  letters  to 
the  Colonel,  we  were  received  by  him  with  great  politeness, 
and  were  afterwards  indebted  to  him  for  every  civility  it  was 
in  his  power  to  show  us.  He  introduced  us  to  Dr.  Whitman, 
who  has  since  published  an  account  of  his  travels ;  and  under- 
took to  forward  our  letters  to  England,  and  to  present  us  to 
the  Grand  Vizir.  In  the  court  belonging  to  the  house  where 
these  officers  resided,  were  several  interesting  articles  of 
antiquity,  abandoned  by  the  French  upon  the  surrender  of 
the  city.  Among  these  was  the  stele  of  porphyry  which  is 
now  deposited  in  the  Vestibule  of  the  University  Library 
at  Cambridge.  Colonel  Holloway  kindly  permitted  us  to 
remove  this  to  England.  We  placed  it  in  the  prow  of 
our  djerm  ;  thereby  giving  it  the  appearanGe  of  a  gun- 
boat, to  awe  the  pirates  upon  the  river,  during  our 
subsequent  voyage,  in  returning  to  Rosetta.  There  were 
also  in  this  court  certain  fragments  of  Egyptian  statues, 
formed  of  the  substance  commonly  called  Antient  basalt, 
which  is  a  variety  of  trap,  exceedingly  compact,  and  sus- 
ceptible of  a  very  high  polish.  But  the  most  remarkable 
relique  of  the  wmole  collection,  since  unaccountably  neg- 
lected, (for  it  is,  in  all  probability,  still  lying  where  we  left 
it,)  was  a  very  large  slab,  covered  with  an  inscription,  in 
Hieroglyphic,  Egyptian,  and  Greek  characters,  exactly  similar 
to  the  famous  trilinguar  stone  now  in  the  British  Museum1. 

Upon 


47 


CHAP.  II. 


(l)  Its  being  left  in  Egypt  is  a  circumstance  wholly  unaccountable.     It  was  once 
Colonel  Holloway's  intention  to  have  allowed  us  also  the  privilege  of  conveying  this 

interesting 


48 


GRAND    CAIRO. 


chap.  ii.  Upon  the  following  day,  Thursday,  August  the  thirteenth, 

we  again  visited  the  Reis  Effendi;  who  promised  us  an 
escort  to  the  Pyramids,  and  said  that  a  day  should  be 
appointed  for  our  presentation  to  the  Vizir,  at  that  time 
Jewel  Market,  in  Cairo.  Afterward  we  visited  the  bazars,  expecting 
to  obtain  from  the  jewellers'  shops  of  this  city  some  of  the 
precious  minerals  of  the  East,  at  a  reasonable  rate.  Not 
a  single  specimen  worth  notice  could  be  procured.  The 
French  had  bought  up  almost  every  thing;  and  perhaps  the 
frequent  disturbances  which  had  happened  in  the  city  had 
caused  the  concealment  of  every  valuable  commodity. 
Among  the  goldsmiths  we  found  only  two  antique  intaglio 
gems,  and  a  few  medals  of  very  little  value,  such  as  large 
copper  coins  of  the  Ptolemies.  The  cotton  shawls  manu- 
factured in  England  would  find  a  ready  sale  in  this  place. 
They  asked  two  hundred  piastres  even  for  old  turbans  which 
had  been  mended.  In  the  fruit-market  we  saw  fresh  dates, 
exceeding  fine  grapes,  and  peaches.  Sausages  were  dressed, 
and  sold  hot  in  the  streets,  as  in  London  :  but  whether  the 

ingredients 


interesting  piece  of  antiquity  to  our  own  country.  We  did  not  afterwards  discover  the 
reason  which  prevented  the  fulfilment  of  this  liberal  design  ;  and  we  were  too  much  in- 
debted to  his  politeness  and  hospitality  to  attribute  it  to  any  other  cause  than  a  desire 
to  ensure  its  safe  transportation,  by  entrusting  it  to  men  better  provided  with  means  for 
its  removal.  But,  as  it  still  remains  in  Cairo,  some  notice  should  be  taken  of  it,  that 
measures  may  be  adopted  to  prevent  its  being  finally  lost.  It  should  also  be  added,  that 
the  inscriptions  upon  this  stone  are  much  effaced.  The  Greek  characters  are  so  little 
legible,  that  the  Author  could  not  succeed  in  copying  them.  But  there  is  a  wide  diffe- 
rence between  the  opportunity  offered  for  that  purpose,  when  exposed  to  the  heat  of 
an  open  court  at  Cairo  in  the  middle  of  August,  and  a  leisurely  examination  of  the  sur- 
face of  the  stone,  with  precisely  the  degree  of  light  proper  for  the  undertaking. 


GRAND    CAIRO. 


49 


CHAF.  II. 


ingredients  were  pork,  or  any  other  meat,  we  did  not 
inquire.  To  describe  the  interior  of  the  city  would  be  only 
to  repeat  what  has  been  often  said  of  all  Turkish  towns ; 
with  this  difference,  that  there  is  not  perhaps  upon  earth 
a  more  dirty  metropolis.  Every  place  is  covered  with  dust ; 
and  its  particles  are  so  minute,  that  it  rises  into  all  the 
courts  and  chambers  of  the  city.  The  streets  are  destitute 
of  any  kind  of  pavement :  they  exhibit,  therefore,  a  series 
of  narrow  dusty  lanes,  between  gloomy  walls.  It  is  well 
known  that  Europeans  were  formerly  compelled  to  walk, 
or  to  ride  upon  asses,  through  these  streets  ;  nor  had  the 
practice  been  wholly  abandoned  when  we  arrived  ;  for, 
although  some  of  our  officers  appeared  occasionally  on  horse- 
back, many  of  them  ambled  about,  in  their  uniforms,  upon 
the  jack-asses  let  for  hire  by  the  Arabs.  Horses  were  not 
easily  procured.  To  ride  these,  it  was  necessary  first  to 
buy  them.  And  even  when  riding  upon  asses,  if  a  favour- 
able opportunity  offered,  when  our  military  were  not  in 
sight,  the  attendants  of  the  rich  Turks,  running  on  foot 
before  their  horses  to  clear  the  way,  made  every  Christian 
descend  and  walk,  until  the  bearded  grandee  had  passed. 
We  noticed  several  jugglers  exhibiting  their  craft  in  the  Jugglers 
streets  of  Cairo  ;  bearing  in  their  hands  a  kind  of  toy, 
common  in  England,  consisting  of  a  number  of  pieces  of 
wood,  in  the  shape  of  playing-cards,  strung  together,  and 
revolving  from  top  to  bottom ;  such  as  are  called  by 
children  trick- track,  and  are  often  painted  to  display  the 
Cries  of  London.  These  toys  seemed  to  delight  the  Arabs, 
who  considered  them  as  put  together  by  magic.  For  the 
vol.  in.  h  rest 


wmm- 


<5ii.'*A.!| 


[ 


■■H 


50 


CHAP.  II. 


Trees. 


GRAND    CAIRO. 

rest  of  the  exhibition,  it  much  resembled  the  shows  of  our 
mountebanks  ;  each  party  having  its  Merry  Andrew,  who 
endured  hard  kicks  and  cuffs  for  the  amusement  of  the 
populace. 

By  means  of  the  canal  which  intersects  the  city,  now  filled 
with  its  muddy  water,  we  visited  great  part  of  Cairo  in  a  boat. 
The  prodigious  number  of  gardens  give  it  so  pleasing  an 
appearance,  and  the  trees  growing  in  those  gardens  are  so 
new  to  the  eyes  of  a  European,  that,  for  a  moment,  he 
forgets  the  innumerable  abominations  of  the  dirtiest  metro- 
polis in  the  world.  Many  of  the  most  conspicuous  of  these 
trees  have  been  often  described,  but  not  all  of  them.  The 
most  beautiful  among  them,  the  Mimosa  Lebbeck,  has  not 
even  been  mentioned  in  any  account  yet  published  of  the 
city.  This  is  the  more  extraordinary,  as  it  grows  upon  the 
banks  of  the  canal  ;  and  its  long  weeping  branches,  pendent 
to  the  surface  of  the  water,  could  not  escape  notice.  We 
brought  the  seeds  of  it  to  the  Garden  of  Natural  History  at 
Cambridge,  where  it  has  since  flourished.  This  plant  has 
been  hitherto  so  little  known  in  Europe,  that  although 
cultivated  in  some  botanic  gardens  for  more  than  half  a 
century,  it  has  never  been  properly  recognized.  About 
thirty  years  ago,  Professor  Jacquin,  who  received  some  seeds 
of  it  from  the  East  Indies,  described  it  as  a  new  species, 
under  the  name  of  Mimosa  speciosa ;  and  by  this  name  it  is 
still  distinguished  in  the  English  catalogues.  It  grows 
promiscuously  with  the  Gum  Arabic  Acacia,  or  Mimosa 
Niloika:  both  of  these,  and  also  the  Mimosa  Senegal,  are 
seen  adorning  the  sides  of  the  canal.     Hasselquist  says,  that 

he 


GRAND   CAIRO. 


51 


Gum  Arabic. 


he  saw  the  two  last  growing  wild  in  the  sandy  desert,  near 
the  antient  sepulchres  of  the  Egyptians1.  The  Mimosa 
Nilotica,  or  Acacia  vera,  produces  the  frankincense.  It  is  incense 
gathered  in  vast  quantities  from  trees  growing  near  the  most 
northern  bay  of  the  Red  Sea,  at  the  foot  of  Mount  Sinai ; 
and  called  Thus,  by  the  dealers  in  Egypt,  from  Thur  and 
Thor,  which  is  the  name  of  a  harbour  in  that  bay ;  thereby 
being  distinguished  from  the  Gum  Arabic  which  comes  from 
Suez*.  These  gums,  says  Hasselquist,  differ  in  other  parti- 
culars besides  their  localities;  the  first  being  limpid  and 
colourless  ;  the  latter  less  pellucid,  and  of  a  brown,  or  dirty 
vellow  colour1.  We  purchased  a  considerable  quantity  of 
the  white  gum.  The  fragrant  odour  diffused  in  burning  it  is 
well  known  ;  but  its  operation,  as  an  enlivener  of  the  spirits, 
in  persons  of  weak  health,  does  not  seem  to  have  been  much 
regarded.  Perhaps  the  pleasing  antidote  it  affords  to  the 
effects  of  foul  air  in  crowded  assembly-rooms,  may  possibly 
hereafter  give  it  a  place  among  the  luxuries  of  London  and 
Paris.  Hitherto  the  sacred  Sabrean  odour  has  been  exclusively 
reserved  for  the  religious  ceremonies  of  the  Greek  and  Roman 
churches ;  and  that  which  was  once  considered  an  offering 
worthy  the  altars  of  the  Most  High  God,  now  scarcely  ob- 
tains any  notice.  Fifteen  hundred  years  before  the  Christian 
aera,  the  ordinances   concerning  incense4  were  delivered  to 

the 


CHAP.  II. 


(1)  Travels  to  the  East,  p.  250.     Lond.  1776. 

(2)  Ibid. 

(3)  Ibid. 

(A)   "  And  thou  shalt  make  an  altar  to  burn  incense  upon."     Exod,  xxx.  1, 


r^mu^Ss  ■   ^X£»^^^^^'^iiie&      ^^^^H 


OTWCTQBMHH 


-*4Ati      :  ik'msiijkt; 


Plagues  of 

Egypt- 


GRAND    CAIRO. 

the  leader  of  the  Jewish  nation  ;  and  the  history  of  the  most 
antient  Pagan  rites  also  bears  testimony  to  a  similar  custom. 
It  seems  evident,  from  the  words  of  Scripture,  that  the 
practice  of  burning  incense,  among  the  Jews,  was  introduced 
with  reference  to  the  supposed  salutary  nature  of  the  ex- 
halation. Immediately  following  the  ordinance  for  its  use, 
it  is  stated,  that  the  time  of  burning  it  shall  be  at  the  dressing 
and  lighting  of  the  lamps1 ;  when  an  offensive  smell,  thereby 
created,  might  probably  have  pervaded  the  temple.  What- 
ever may  have  been  the  cause  of  its  original  introduction 
among  the  sacrifices,  whether  of  the  Jews  or  Heathens,  its 
being  appropriated  to  the  service  of  the  Temple  long  caused 
it  to  be  held  in  superstitious  veneration.  Many  medical 
properties,  which  it  never  possessed,  have  been  attributed  to 
it ;  and,  down  to  the  latest  ages,  considered  as  an  offering 
acceptable  unto  Heaven,  it  has  been  celebrated  as  giving 
efficacy  to  prayer,  or,  in  the  language  of  poetry,  as  wafting  to 
Paradise  the  orisons  of  men. 

The  mercury  in  Fahrenheit's  thermometer  seemed  at  this 
time  fixed.  It  remained  at  Q0°  for  several  days,  without  the 
smallest  perceptible  change.  Almost  every  European  suffered 
an  inflammation  of  the  eyes.  Many  were  troubled  with 
cutaneous  disorders.  The  prickly  heat  was  very  common. 
This  was  attributed  to  drinking  the  muddy  water  of  the  Nile, 
the  inhabitants  having  no  other.     Their  mode  of  purifying 

it, 


(l)  "  And  Aaron  shall  burn  thereon  sweet  incense  every  morning  :  when  he  dresseth 
the  lamps,  he  shall  burn  incense  upon  it.  And  when  Aaron  Lighteth  the  lamps  at  even, 
he  shall  burn  incense  upon  it ;  a  perpetual  incense  before  the  Lord,  throughout  your 
generations."     Exod.  xxx.  7,  8. 


GRAND    CAIRO. 


53 


it,  in  a  certain  degree,  is  by  rubbing  the  inside  of  the  water- 
vessels  with  bruised  almonds  :   this  precipitates  a  portion  of 
the  mud,  but  it  is  never  quite  clear.     Many  persons  were 
afflicted  with  sores  upon  the  skin,  which  were  called  "  Boils 
of  the  Nile ;"   and  dysenterical  complaints  were  universal. 
A  singular  species  of  lizard  made  its  appearance  in  every 
chamber,  having    circular  membranes   at  the   extremity  of 
its  feet,  which  gave  it  such  tenacity  that  it  crawled  upon 
panes  of  glass,  or  upon  the  surface  of  pendent  mirrors.     This 
revolting  sight  was  common  to  every  apartment,  whether  in 
the  houses  of  the  rich  or  of  the  poor.     At  the  same  time, 
such  a  plague  of  flies  covered  all  things  with  their  swarms, 
that  it  was  impossible  to  eat  without  hiring  persons  to  stand 
by  every   table    with  feathers,    or  flappers,   to  drive   them 
away.     Liquor  could  not  be  poured  into  a  glass ;  the  mode 
of  drinking  was,    by   keeping    the    mouth  of  every  bottle 
covered   until  the  moment  it  was  applied  to  the  lips;   and 
instantly  covering  it  with  the  palm  of  the  hand,  when  re- 
moving it  to  offer  to  any  one  else.     The  utmost  attention  to 
cleanliness,  by  a  frequent  change  of  every  article  of  wearing 
apparel,  could  not  repel  the  attacks  of  the  swarms  of  vermin 
which    seemed    to    infest    even    the   air   of  the  place.      A 
gentleman  made  his  appearance,  before  a  party  he  had  invited 
to   dinner,   completely   covered    with    lice.      The  only  ex- 
planation he  could  give  as  to  the  cause  was,  that   he  had 
sat  for  a  short  time  in   one  of  the  boats   upon   the  canal. 
Perhaps   objection  may  be   made  to  a   statement,   even   of 
facts,  which  refers  to  no  pleasing  theme;  but   the  author 
does  not  conceive  it  possible  to  give  Englishmen  a  correct 

notion 


CHAP.  II. 


54 


CHAP.  H. 


Statistics  of 
Cairo. 


GRAND   CAIRO. 

notion  of  the  trials  to  which  they  will  be  exposed  in  visiting; 
this  country,  without  calling  some  things  by  their  names. 
The  insects  of  the  Nile  are  many  of  them  also  common 
to  the  Don  :  other  instances  of  similarity  in  the  two 
rivers  have  been  before  noticed1.  The  gardens  of  Cairo 
are  filled  with  turtle-doves,  whose  melancholy  notes  suit 
the  solitary  disposition  of  the  Turks.  Their  music  has  the 
same  plaintive  character.  The  houses  of  the  city  are  larger 
and  better-built  than  those  of  Constantinople,  the  founda- 
tions being  of  stone,  and  the  superstructure  bricks  and 
mortar ;  but  they  have  the  same  gloomy  appearance  externally. 
The  interior  consists  principally  of  timber.  The  French  had 
pulled  down  many  houses,  in  order  to  get  fuel :  owing  to  this, 
and  to  the  commotions  that  had  taken  place,  a  considerable 
part  of  the  city  appeared  in  ruins.  The  inhabitants  generally 
ride  upon  mules  or  asses:  the  latter  are  so  active  in  this 
country,  and  possess  such  extraordinary  strength,  that  for  all 
purposes  of  labour,  even  for  carrying  heavy  burthens  across 
the  sandy  desert,  they  are  next  in  utility  to  the  camel,  and 
will  bear  work  better  than  horses.  The  horse  in  Egypt  is 
used  rather  as  an  animal  of  parade,  than  for  essential  service. 
The  vast  army  of  the  Wahabees  in  the  desert  were  said  to 
be  mounted  upon  camels  and  upon  asses.  The  population 
of  Cairo  consisted  at  this  time  of  Arabs  and  Mamlukes,  for 
the  chief  part ;  and,  besides  these,  were  Copts,  Jews,  and 
Greeks,  together  with  the  adventitious  multitude  caused  by 

the 


(1)  See  Vol.  I.  p.  270.     Second  edition. 


GRAND     CAIRO 


55 


CHAP.  II. 


the  events  of  war,  which  had  filled  the  streets  of  the  city 
with  the  Sepoys  and  various  casts  of  India,  with  Turks, 
Italians,  French  and  English  soldiers,  merchants,  and  adven- 
turers of  every  description.     The  Indian  army  under  General    British  Army 

_  from  India. 

Baird  was  encamped  in  the  Isle  of  Rhouda,  and  presented  the 
finest  military  spectacle  it  is  possible  to  conceive ;  offering 
a  striking  contrast  to  the  appearance  of  the  troops  from 
England,  which  were  encamped  upon  the  Alexandrian  Plain. 
The  Indian  army,  in  possession  of  abundant  supplies,  and 
having  all  the  comforts  which  wealth  and  power  could 
bestow,  might  be  considered  rather  as  an  encampment  of 
mightiest  princes  than  of  private  men.  The  tents  of  its  sub- 
alterns were  superior  to  the  marquees  of  general-officers  in 
the  English  army,  where  the  Commander-in-chief  lived  as  the 
poorest  soldier,  and  wretchedness  and  privation  were  the 
standing  orders  of  the  day*.  Every  morning,  at  sun-rise,  as 
in  Lord  Hutchinson's  army,  a  gun  was  fired,  and  the  whole 
line  of  the  troops  from  India  were  under  arms,  amounting 
to  3000  men.  At  this  hour,  we  often  resorted  to  the  Isle 
of  Rhouda,  to  view  the   magnificent  parade.     An  immense 

grove 


(2)  The  luxury  and  pomp  of  the  Indian  army  may  be  conceived,  by  simply  stating 
the  fact,  that  glavs  lustres,  manufactured  in  London,  exported  to  India,  and  thence  con- 
veyed, after  a  voyage  up  the  Red  Sea,  upon  the  backs  of  camels  across  the  desert  from 
Cosseir  to  the  Nile,  were  suspended  in  the  audience-pavilion  of  the  Commander-in-chief. 
Breakfasting  with  a  lieutenant  of  the  sixty-first  regiment,  we  were  regaled  with  white  bread, 
and  fresh  butter,  made  upon  the  spot  for  the  occasion,  (which  perhaps  had  never  been 
seen  before  in  Egypt,)  fruit,  cream,  tea,  coffee,  and  chocolate.  The  impression  made  by 
external  splendor,  upon  men,  characterized  as  are  the  inhabitants  of  the  Turkish  empire, 
is  more  effectual  for  the  advancement  of  our  political  interests  in  the  East,  than  the 
operations  of  war.  An  ignorant  Moslem  attaches  higher  ideas  of  power  to  the  appear- 
ance of  wealth ,  than  to  any  effect  of  military  strength. 


jTffffiTTTTnTfrrrrnj!g|gHgJWi'tww 


56 


CHAP.  II. 


Dinner  given 
by  the  Com- 
mander-in- 
Chief. 


GRAND   CAIRO.       . 

grove  of  the  most  enormous  sycamore  fig-trees,  larger  than 
any   of  our  forest  trees',  secured  almost   the   whole  army 
from  the  rays  of  the  sun.    Troops  in  such  a  state  of  military 
perfection,  or  better  suited  for  active  service,  were  never  seen, 
not  even  in  the  famous  parade  of  the  chosen  Ten-thousand 
belonging  to  Buonaparte's  legions,  which  he   was  so  vain 
of  displaying,  before  the  present  war,   in  the  front  of   the 
Thuilleries  at  Paris.     Not  an  unhealthy  soldier  was  to  be 
seen.     The  English   inured  to  the  climate   of   India    con- 
sidered that  of  Egypt  as  temperate  in   its  effects  ;   and  the 
sepoys  seemed  as  fond  of  the  Nile  as  of  the  Ganges.     After 
General   Baird   had   inspected   the   line,    the    sepoys    were 
marched  to   Cairo,  where,   having  piled   their  arms  before 
one  of  the  principal  mosques,   they  all  joined  the  Moslems 
in  their  devotions, — to  the  surprise  and  satisfaction  of  the 
Turks  and  Arabs,  who    speedily   circulated  a    report   over 
Cairo,  that  the   English  army  was   filled  with  soldiers   be- 
longing to  the  Faithful.     These  men  were  all  volunteers  ; 
and  no  instance  had  ever  occurred  of  their   being  conveyed 
so  far  from  their  native  land  at  any  former  period. 

A  dinner  given  by  General  Baird  to  all  the  English  officers, 
and  others  of  our  countrymen  in  Cairo,  took  place  while 
the  camp  remained  upon  the  Isle  of  Rhouda.  We  were 
invited  :   and  the  scene  was  so  extraordinary,  that  it  ought 

to 


(l)  The  Editor  of  Hasselquist's  Travels  has  mistaken  his  measure  of  circumference  for 
diameter : — "  This  is  a  huge  tree,  the  stem  being  often  fifty  feet  thick."  See  Hasselquist's 
Travels,  p.  25Q.  Lond.  1766.  It  cannot  surely  be  intended  that  the  sycamore- trees  of 
Egypt  were  nearly  nineteen  yards  in  diameter. 


GRAND    CAIRO. 


57 


to  be  noticed.  The  dinner  was  given  in  the  pavilion  before 
mentioned :  this  was  lighted  by  glass  lustres  suspended  from 
an  enormous  bamboo  cane,  sustaining  the  inner  covering 
of  the  tent;  and  by  wax  candles  in  glass  cylinders.  English 
porter,  roasted  pigs,  and  other  English  fare,  together  with 
port,  claret,  and  Madeira  wines,  appeared  upon  the  table. 
The  dinner  was  cooked  by  Indian  servants,  upon  the  sand 
near  the  tent ;  and  a  view  of  the  extraordinary  clean- 
liness observed  by  these  cooks,  as  well  as  of  their  peculiar 
habits,  were  among  the  most  curious  parts  of  the  exhibi- 
tion. Having  drawn  a  line  around  them,  they  suffered  no 
person  to  pass  this  boundary.  The  rules  of  their  cast 
enjoined  that  none  of  the  cooking  vessels  should  be  touched, 
except  by  their  own  hands.  After  dinner  the  officers 
smoked  the  hooka:  every  pipe  had  its  peculiar  attendant  upon 
the  outside  of  the  tent ;  the  long  flexible  tubes  alone  being 
brought  under  the  sides  of  the  pavilion  to  those  seated  at 
table.  The  servants  in  waiting  were  principally  negroes, 
dressed  in  white  turbans  with  muslin  jackets,  but  without 
stockings  or  shoes.  The  upper  part  of  the  pavilion  was 
adorned  with  beautiful  net-work,  the  hangings  were  of 
green  silk,  and  the  floor  covered  with  Indian  mats.  The 
tables  were  of  polished  mahogany;  and  the  company 
present  in  full  uniform  ; — an  association  of  things  so  incon- 
gruous with  the  natural  horrors  and  barbarism  of  the 
country,  upon  the  border  of  an  interminable  desert,  and 
in  the  midst  of  such  a  river  as  the  Nile,  where  persons 
from  India  and  from  England  were  met  to  banquet  together, 
that  perhaps  no  similar  result  of  commerce  and  of  conquest 
vol.  in.  i  is 


CHAP.  II. 


3'«^'A^^,V*"'.:«Vj,*«S*iil*ti*;i'>-T 


58 


CHAP.  II. 


Discovery 
made  by 
Brahmins  in 
Upper  Egypt. 


Examination 
of  an  Abyssi- 
nian concern- 
ing Bruce's 
Travels. 


GRAND    CAIRO. 

is  ever  likely  to  occur  again,  in  any  part  of  the  habitable 
globe.  Upon  this  occasion  we  heard  the  extraordinary 
fact,  maintained  and  confirmed  by  indisputable  testimony, 
that  certain  Brahmins  who  had  accompanied  the  Indian 
army  in  its  march  from  the  Red  Sea  to  the  Nile,  from 
Cosseir  to  Ken6,  saw  at  Dendera  the  representation  of 
their  God  Vishnu  among  the  antient  sculpture  of  the 
place1;  and  were  with  difficulty  restrained  by  their  officers 
from  assaulting  the  Arabs,  on  account  of  the  neglected  state 
in  which  his  temple,  as  they  supposed,  was  suffered  to 
remain.  The  officers  of  General  Baird's  army  spoke  highly 
of  the  accuracy  of  Bruce's  observations  ;  and  the  General 
himself  assured  us,  that  he  considered  Great  Britain  as 
indebted  to  Bruce's  valuable  Chart  of  the  Red  Sea,  for 
the  safety  of  the  transports  employed  in  conveying  the 
British  forces. 

At  this  time  there  happened  to  arrive  in  Cairo  an 
Abyssinian  Dean,  a  negro,  who  had  undertaken  his  immense 
journey  for  religious  purposes,  and  then  resided  in  the  mo- 
nastery belonging  to  the  Propaganda  Friars 2.  The  author  had 
been  often  engaged  in  noting  from  this  man's  account  of 
his  country,  some  information  respecting  the  state  of  Chris- 
tianity in  Abyssinia ;  and  had  purchased  of  him  a  written 
copy    of  the    Gospel   of   St.   John,    together  with    certain 

prayers 

(1)  It  were  to  be  wished  that  some  officer  belonging  to  the  Indian  army,  who  was 
present  upon  that  occasion,  would  specify  what  particular  figure  the  Brahmins  con- 
ceived to  be  a  representation  of  Vishnu. 

(2)  There  are  two  monasteries  in  Cairo  •  one  called  the  Terra  Sancta,  and  the 
other  the  Propaganda,  Monastery. 


GRAND    CAIRO. 


59 


prayers    in    the    Abyssinian    language:    these    manuscripts      chap.  u. 
are  now   in    the  Bodleian   Library  at  Oxford.     As   General 
Baird  had  a  copy  of  Bruce's  Travels  then   in   his  posses- 
sion,  and  was   kind  enough  to  allow  us   the   use   of   it,  a 
better  opportunity  might  rarely  ofler  of  submitting  Bruce's 
narrative    to    the   test  of  a  comparison   with  the  evidence 
afforded  by  a  native  of  Abyssinia.    We  therefore  appointed 
a   day    for   this   purpose ;    and    sent  an   invitation   to    the 
Abyssinian  Dean.     In  order  to  make  the  inquiry  as  public 
as    possible,    we     also    requested    the    attendance    of  Mr. 
Hamilton,  secretary  of  the  Earl  of  Elgin,  of  Dr.  Whitman, 
and  of  Mr.  Hammer,  a  celebrated  Oriental  scholar,  during 
the  investigation.     One  of   the    Propaganda    Friars    served 
us  as  our  interpreter  with  the  Abyssinian  priest.     It   was 
at   first   disputed  whether  any  mention  should  be  made  of 
Bruce,    or   not ;    but  at  length    we    resolved  that    a  series 
of  questions  should    be   put   from   Bruce's   work,   without 
any  mention   being   made  of  him,  or  any  allusion  to   his 
travels  in  Abyssinia.    The  sight  of  his  volumes  on  the  table 
were  not  likely  to  offer  any  clue,  respecting  the  purport  of 
our  inquiry,  to  an  ^Ethiopian  who  had  never  seen  a  printed 
quarto  before  in  his  life,  and  to  whom  the  language  in  which 
it   was  written  was  altogether   unknown.     His  testimony, 
therefore,  as  a  native  of  Abyssinia,  to  the  accuracy  of  Bruce's 
description  of  the   country,   will   not  be  disregarded  ;  and 
the   following   result  of  our   conversation  with   him    may 

terminate  this  chapter5. 

Our 


(3)  There  lias  not  been  an  example,  in  the  annals  of  literature,  of  more  unfair  and 
disgraceful  hostility  than  that  which  an   intolerant  and  invidious  party  too  successfully 

levelled, 


60 


CHAP.  II. 


GRAND     CAIRO. 

Our  first  questions  related  to  the  place  of  his  birth; 
and  of  his  usual  residence  before  he  left  Abyssinia.  In 
answer  to  these  he  stated,  that*  he  was  born  at  Gellebedda\ 
in  the  province  of  Tigre,  whose  capital  is  Adowa\  dis- 
tant twenty-five  or  thirty  days  from  the  Nile,  and  sixteen 
or  seventeen  from  Massuah  upon  the  Red  Sea  ;  that  his 
usual  place  of  residence,  and  to  which  he  should  return, 

after 


levelled,  during  a  considerable  period,  against  the  writings  of  Bruce.  Soon  after  the 
publication  of  his  "  Travels  to  discover  the  Source  of  the  Nile,"  several  copies  of  the 
work  were  sold  in  Dublin  as  waste  paper,  in  consequence  of  the  calumnies  circulated 
against  the  author's  veracity.  This  happened  in  the  year  1791-  1°  the  year]  800, 
Mr.  John  Antes,  of  Fulnec  in  Yorkshire,  published  a  small  volume  of  "  Observations  on 
Egypt;'  a  work  not  less  remarkable  for  its  fidelity  and  genuine  worth,  than  for  the 
little  notice  it  received.  Speaking  of  Bruce,  that  author  observes :  "  When  Mr.  Bruce 
returned  from  Abyssinia,  I  was  at  Grand  Cairo.  I  had  the  pleasure  of  his  company  for 
three  months,  almost  every  day:  and  having,  at  that  time,  myself  an  idea  of  penetrating 
into  Abyssinia,  I  was  very  inquisitive  about  that  country,  on  hearing  many  things  from 
him  which  seemed  almost  incredible  tome.  I  used  to  ask  his  Greek  servant  Michael 
(a  simple  fellow,  incapable  of  any  invention)  about  the  same  circumstances,  and  must 

SAY    THAT   HE    COMMONLY    AGREED    WITH    HIS    MASTER     IN   THE  CHIEF    POINTS."   (See 

Observat.  on  the  Mann,  and  Cust.  of  the  Egyptians,  by  John  Jntes,  Esq.  p.  I/,  Lond. 
1800.)  Many  stronger  testimonies  in  favour  of  Bruce's  accuracy  have  also  at  different 
times  been  adduced,  particularly  by  Mr.  Browne  (See  Pref.  to  his  Travels) ;  and  the 
work  has  consequently  risen  very  considerably  in  the  public  estimation.  Some  tra- 
vellers, indeed,  have  attempted  to  invalidate  certain  of  his  assertions,  which,  after  all,  are 
not  of  much  moment,  whether  they  be  true  or  false  •.  such,  for  example,  as  the  cir- 
cumstance related  by  Bruce  of  the  part  he  took  in  the  wars  of  the  country;  and  of  the 
practice  he  witnessed  of  taking  flesh  from  a  living  animal,  as  an  article  of  food  :  this 
last  has,  however,  now  been  fully  confirmed  by  the  statement  of  the  native  priest,  as 
given  above.  It  is  probable  that  Bruce  would  never  have  encountered  the  opposition 
he  met  with,  if  his  writings  had  not  been  characterized  by  offending  egotism.  Baron 
de  Tott's  work  experienced  a  similar  fate,  from  the  same  cause  ;  and  has  similarly 
obtained,  at  last,  the  consideration  to  which,  by  its  great  merit,  it  is  justly  entitled. 

(2)  This  place  is  mentioned  in  Mr.  Salt's  Narrative,  as  published  by  Lord  Valentia, 
and  written  Gullybudda.  (See  vol.  III.  p.  71.  Lond.  180Q.)  He  describes  it  as 
"  a  place  of  considerable  extent  and  population." 

(3)  Bruce  also  describes  Adowa,  as  being  the  capital  of  Tigre.  A  view  of  the 
town  accompanies  Mr.  Salt's  Narrative,  in  Lord  Valentia's  Travels,  vol.  III.  p.  76. 
Lond.  180Q. 


Gil  A  ND     CAIRO. 


61 


vations  con- 
firmed. 


after  leaving  Cairo,  was  a  village  about  fifteen  days'  journey      chap^ii. 
from   Gondar.     We   asked  him  what    kind    of    coin    was 
circulated  in  his  native  province  :  he  said  that  fossil  salt  was 
used  in  Tigre  as  a  substitute  for  money4. 

Our  next  inquiry  related  to  the  long-disputed  fact,  of    Fidelity  of 

.     .  r  r  _.  Bruce'sObser- 

a  practice  among  the  Abyssinians  or  cutting  from  a  live 
animal  slices  of  its  flesh,  as  an  article  of  food,  without 
putting  it  to  death.  This  Bruce  affirms  that  he  witnessed  in 
his  journey  from  Massuah  to  Axum5.  The  Abyssinian, 
answering,  informed  us,  that  the  soldiers  of  the  country, 
during  their  marauding  excursions,  sometimes  maim  cows  after 
this  manner,  taking  slices  from  their  bodies,  as  a  favourite 
article  of  food,  without  putting  them  to  death  at  the  time ;  and 
that  during  the  banquets  of  the  Abyssinians,  raw  meat, 
esteemed  delicious  throughout  the  country,  is  frequently  tahen 
from  an  ox  or  a  cow,  in  such  a  state  that  the  fibres  are  in 
motion ;  and  that  the  attendants  continue  to  cut  slices  until  the 
animal  dies.  This  answer  exactly  corresponds  with  Bruce's 
Narrative  :  he  expressly  states  that  the  persons  whom  he  saw 
were  soldiers6,  and  the  animal  a  cow7.     Such  a  coincidence 

could 


(4)  Mr.  Salt,  speaking  of  a  manufacture  of  cloth  at  Adowa,  s.iys,  it  circulates  as 
money  through  the  country  ;  but  he  adds,  "  Each  piece  is  about  sixteen  cubits  long,  and 
one  and  three  quarters  wide.:  its  value  is  thirty  pieces  of  salt,  or  one  dollar."  Valmtids 
Travels,  vol.  III.  p.  78.  Lond.  I8O9.  Also  in  vol.  111.  p.  54,  "  The  small  enrrency 
{at  Ant  alow)  consisted  of  wedges  of  rock-salt,  each  weighing  two  or  three  pounds,  and 
estimated  at  -,V  of  a  dollar." 

(5)  Braces  Travels,  vol.  III.  p.  142.  Edinb.  1790.  "When  I  first  mentioned  this 
in  England,  I  was  told  by  my  friends  it  was  not  believed.  I  asked  the  re.'.son  of  this 
disbelief  and  was  answered,  that  people  who  had  never  been  out  of  their  own  country, 
and  others  well  acquainted  with  the  manners  of  the  world,  for  they  had  travelled  as  far 
as  France,  had  agreed  the  thing  was  impossible,  and  therefore  it  was  so."    Ibid.  p.  144. 

(6)  Bruce's  Travels,  ibid.  p.  142.  (7)  Ibid. 


HUHHi 


■■^^^^^^^^^^^^^^M 

;.-.-.-.--:.—- 


GRAND    CAIRO. 

could  hardly  have  happened,  unless  the  practice  really  existed. 
We  inquired  if  other  animals  were  thus  treated ;  and  were 
answered  in  the  negative.  Mutton  is  always  boiled  ;  and 
veal  is  never  eaten,  in  any  way '.  In  times  of  famine  alone 
the  inhabitants  eat  boiled  blood. 

Among  other  absurd  accusations  brought  against  Bruce, 
a  very  popular  charge  at  one  time  was,  that  some  of  the 
plants  engraved  in  his  work  never  existed  in  nature,  but 
were  the  offspring  of  his  own  fertile  imagination.  We 
therefore  resolved  next  to  exhibit  the  engravings  to  our 
Abyssinian,  and  desire  him  to  name  the  plants,  and  to 
describe  their  properties.  It  was  impossible  that  this  man 
should  read,  and  much  less  comprehend,  the  Abyssinian 
names  which  Bruce's  engraver  had  inscribed  upon  the 
bottom  of  those  plates. 

The  first  plates  offered  to  his  notice  were  those  which 
represent  the  Sassa*.  He  recognised  the  plants,  but  knew 
nothing  of  the  name  Bruce  had  given  them,  and  denied  that  # 
any  gum  was  produced  by  them.  Matters  went  on  more 
swimmingly  when  the  next  were  shewn  to  him.  He  named 
the  following  instantly,  and  gave  the  same  account  of  them 
that  Bruce  had  done ;  namely,  Ergett  Dimmo ;  Ergett 
el  Krone ;  En  set  e;  Kol- Quail  \  Gir  Gir;  Kantuffa;  &c.  all 
of  whose  Abyssinian  appellations  he  pronounced  exactly  as 
Bruce  had  written  them.  The  Ergett  el  Ri*one,  he  said, 
grew  near  the  Lake  Tzana,  and  in  every  part  of  Abyssinia ; 

but 

(1)  This  agrees  with  the  account  published  by  Lord  Valentia,  from  Mr.  Salt's  Journal. 
See  Valentids  Travels,  vol.  III.  p.  \5Q.    Lond.  I8O9. 

(2)  Bruce's  Travels,  Appendix,  p.  28. 


GRAND     CAIRO. 

but  that  it  was  of  no  use  to  the  inhabitants.      He  described 
the  leaves  of  the  Ensete  as  resembling  those  of  the  Banana ; 
but  the  plant  as  yielding  no  fruit.    They  boil  the  root  of  it,  as 
a  garden  vegetable,  with  mutton.     The  Kol-Quall  he  named 
instantly ;   saying,   that,  on  beating  it,  it  yields  a  quantity  of 
milk,   which  is  poisonous,  but   may  be  used  as  a  cement, 
capable   of  joining    two    pieces    of     stone.       Its    smaller 
branches,   when  dry,   are  used  for  candles  ;  and  its  wood 
serves  for  timber,  in  building  houses.     It  produces  no  gum3. 
Bruce   relates    all   this;   and  adds,   that  upon   cutting    two 
branches  of  the  Kol-Quall  with  his  sabre,  not  less  than  four 
English  gallons  of  the  milk  issued  out ;  which  was  so  caustic, 
that  although  he  washed  the  sabre  immediately,  the  stain  never 
left  it4.  We  were  amused  by  the  eager  quickness  with  which 
our  Abyssinian  recognised  and  named  the  Kantuffa ;  telling 
us  all  that  Bruce  relates  of  its  thorny  nature,  as  if  he  had  his 
work  by  heart.     The  Balessan,  or  Balsam-tree,  was  entirely 
unknown  to  him.     He  had  seen  the   Papyrus  in  Emluird, 
in  the  province  of  Lebo,  growing  in  marshy  lands.     Con- 
cerning   the    other   plants   engraved   in  Bruce's    work,   his 
observations  agreed  with   those  of  Bruce,  with   very  little 
exception.     He  denied  that  the  mode  of  eating  raw  meat 
was  by  wrapping  it  up  in  cakes  made  of  Tiff.    These  cakes, 
he  said,  were  used  for  plates,  or  as  bread  only  for  women 
and  sick  persons.    The  Abyssinians  do  not  make  beer  from 
Teff,  according  to  his   account,    but   from  a  plant    called 

Sell  eh. 

(3)  Therefore    not    the   Euphorbia   ojjicinarum   of  Linnaeus.     See   bruce's    Tray. 
Append,  p.  44. 

(4)  Ibid.  p.  43. 


^^■■■l 


64  GRAND     CAIRO. 

Selleh.  Bruce  mentions  different  sorts  of  Teff\  of  which, 
perhaps,  Selleh  may  be  one.  The  Abyssinian  concurred  with 
Bruce,  in  attributing  the  frequency  of  worm-disorders,  in  his 
country,  to  the  practice  of  eating  raw  flesh.2.  This  is  con- 
sidered always  as  a  luxury,  and  therefore  the  priests  abstain 
from  it.  In  his  own  village,  he  said,  the  soldiers  and 
principal  people  prefer  raw  meat  to  every  other  diet ;  that 
before  he  became  a  priest,  he  had  himself  eaten  much  of  it ; 
that  he  considered  it  as  very  savoury  when  the  animal  from 
which  it  is  taken  is  fat  and  healthy.  He  professed  himself  to 
be  ignorant  of  the  virtue  ascribed  by  Bruce  to  the  IVooginoos3, 
now  called  Brucea  antidysenterica ;  although  he  knew  the 
plant  well,  and  said  it  cured  all  disorders  caused  by  magic  : 
but  he  verified  all  that  Bruce  had  related  of  the  Cusso*,  or 
Banksia  Abyssinica,  and  added,  that  it  was  customary  to  drink 
an  infusion  made  from  it  every  two  months,  as  a  preventative 
against  the  disorder  noticed  by  Bruce.  When  shewn  the 
Walhaffa,  he  mentioned  a  curious  circumstance,  which  Bruce 
has  not  related ;  namely,  that  the  bark  of  this  plant  serves 
the  Abyssinians  as  a  substitute  for  soap.  He  knew  nothing  of 
the  word  Carat,  as  a  name  said  by  Bruce  to  be  given,  in  the 
south  of  Abyssinia,  to  the  bean  of  the  Kuara-tree,  and  used 
in  weighing  gold. 

Having  thus  discussed  the  plants,  we  directed  his  atten- 
tion to  the  quadrupeds,  birds,  and  other  articles  of  natural 

history. 

(1)  See  Bruce's  Trav.  vol.  III.  p.  280.    Edinl.  1790. 

(2)  Bruce  entertained  the  same  opinion.    See  Travels,  Append,  p.  80.    Edinh.  1/90. 

(3)  Ibid.  p.  69.  (4)  Ibid.  p.  73. 


IMH^ 


GRAND    CAIRO. 

history.  His  answers  gave  us  as  much  reason  to  be  con- 
vinced of  Bruce' s  accuracy  in  this,  as  in  the  former  part  of 
his  work.  It  would  take  up  too  much  of  the  reader's  attention 
to  detail  all  the  evidence  we  collected  for  this  purpose. 
He  added,  that  the  rhinoceros  was  called  Chartiet  by  the 
Abyssinians,  and  said  that  its  horn,  used  for  lining  the  interior 
of  drinking-vessels,  is  considered  as  an  antidote  to  poison. 
When  the  engraving  representing  the  Aslikoko  was  placed 
before  him,  he  recognised  the  animal,  and  related  the  cir- 
cumstance mentioned  by  Bruce'  of  its  being  considered 
unclean,  both  by  Christians  and  by  Mahometans.  Speaking 
of  its  name,  he  made  a  curious  distinction ;  saying  that  it 
is  called  Aslikoko  in  the  Court  language,  but  Gehre  in  the 
vulgar  tongue. 

If  there  be  a  part  of  Bruce' s  work  apparently  fabulous, 
from  its  marvellous  nature,  it  is  the  account  he  has 
given  of  that  destructive  fly,  the  Zimb,  or  Tsaltsalya" ; 
yet,  in  the  history  of  this  insect,  as  in  every  other  instance, 
the  testimony  of  the  Abyssinian  Dean  strictly  confirmed  all 
that  Bruce  had  written  upon  the  subject.  He  told  us,  that 
horses  and  cows  were  its  principal  victims ;  that  there  were 
not  many  of  those  insects  in  his  native  province  ;  but  that  he 
had  heard  of  armies  being  destroyed  in  consequence  of  this 
terrible  scourge.  We  questioned  him  concerning  the  plant 
which  is  said  to  render  persons  invulnerable  to  serpents  or 
scorpions,  merely  by  chewing  its  leaves.  He  replied,  that  he 
knew  the  plant  well,  but  had  forgotten  its   name ;  that  it 

resembled 

(5)  See  Bruce  s  Travels,  Appendix:,  p.  145. 

(6)  Ibid.  p.  188.     See  also  vol.  I.  p.  388. 
VOL.  III.  K 


65 


CHAP.  II. 


i£?*^i!f'i»li*-zj-r*-: 


66 


GRAND     CAIRO. 


chap,  ii.  resembled  hemp,  and  that  he  had  often  made  use  of  it  to 
prove  its  virtues  ;  but  he  added,  that  it  must  be  chewed  at 
the  time  of  touching  the  serpent  or  the  scorpion. 

Previous  to  the  introduction  of  any  inquiry  concerning 
the  source  of  the  Nile,  we  shewed  to  him  Bruce's  map 
of  the  Lake  Tzana,  and  of  the  surrounding  country.  At 
this  he  was  highly  gratified.  He  knew  all  the  places 
mentioned  in  the  territories  of  Bdessen,  Begemder,  Gqjam, 
and  AgowSy  and,  attempting  to  shew  to  us  the  situation  of 
Gondar,  actually  pointed  out  the  spot  marked  by  Bruce  for 
the  locality  of  that  city. 

The  Nile  (which  before  its  junction  with  the  Lake  Tzana 
he  called  Aleaoui)  he  described  as  having  but  one  source1,  in 
a  marshy  spot,  upon  the  top  of  a  mountain,  about  five  or  six 
miles  from  the  lake,  and  upon  its  south-eastern  side.  He 
had  not  been  there  himself,  but  had  often  visited  that  side 
of  the  lake.  There  are  many  villages  in  the  neighbourhood 
of  the  place.    The  inhabitants  are  all  Christians;  but  they 

entertain 


(l)  Bruce's  account  of  the  origin  of  this  river  will  perhaps  be  found,  after  all,  more 
correct  than  any  we  can  obtain,  even  from  the  Abyssinians  themselves,  who  do  not 
reside  near  enough  to  the  spot  to  have  made  personal  observation.  Mr.  Salt  mentions 
the  little  reliance  he  could  place  in  the  various  accounts  given  to  him  upon  this  subject. 
"  When  I  found,"  says  he,  "  that  I  must  give  up  all  hopes  of  penetrating  beyond  the 
Tacazza,  I  took  every  occasion  to  make  inquiries,  of  such  persons  as  were  likely  to  give 
me  any  intelligence  respecting  the  Nile.  Their  accounts  generally  agreed  with  each 
other ;  but  it  appeared  to  me  that  they  spoke  from  what  they  had  heard,  and  not  from 
personal  knowledge.  Its  situation  near  the  village  of  Geesh ;  the  marshiness  of  the 
plain  ;  the  elevation  of  the  spot  whence  it  flows  above  the  surrounding  country  ;  its  circuit 
from  Gojam ;  were  points  familiar  to  them  all:  but  they  differed  considerably  as  to  the 
number  of  the  fountains  from  which  it  springs;  some  speaking  of  three,  others  of  four, 
and  one  person  of  Jive"     Lord  Valentia's  Trav.  vol.  III.  p.  100. 


GRAND     CAIRO. 


67 


entertain  no  veneration  for  the  spot,  neither  are  any  honours    ^  chap.  11. 
whatsoever  paid   to   the    source  of  the   river.     There  are, 
indeed,  many  springs  which  are  medicinal,  and  said   to   be 
the  gift  of  certain  saints,  but  he  had  never  heard  that  the 
fountain  of  the  Nile  was  one  of  these. 

Here  we  terminated  our  investigation,  as  far  as  it  related 
to  Bruce's  account  of  Abyssinia;  and  the  result  of  it  left  a 
conviction  upon  our  minds,  not  only  of  the  general  fidelity 
of  that  author,  but  that  no  other  book  of  travels,  published 
so  long  after  the  events  took  place  which  he  has  related, 
and  exposed  to  a  similar  trial,  would  have  met  with  equal 
testimony  of  its  truth  and  accuracy. 


(2)  In  the  interesting  memoir  of  Mr.  Salt's  Journey  in  Abyssinia,  as  published  by 
Lord  Valentia,  its  author  has  assailed  the  veracity  of  Bruce,  in  a  manner  which  may  be 
lamented  by  those  who  hold  Mr.  Salt's  Narrative  in  the  highest  estimation  :  and  for 
this  reason  ;  that,  with  an  evident  disposition  to  dispute  the  correctness  of  Bruce's  re- 
presentation, no  writer  has  contributed  more  effectually  to  the  establishment  of  Bruce's 
credit.  Mr.  Salt  speaks  in  the  most  positive  terms  of  the  accuracy  with  which  Bruce  has 
detailed  his  historical  infoimation.  (See  Lord  Valentia's  Travels,  vol.  III.  pp.  103.  209. 
&c.  &c.  Lond.  I8O9.)  He  also  mentions  the  astonishment  of  the  natives 'at  his  own 
knowledge  of  their  history  :  (Ibid.  p.  227.)  and,  above  all,   that  he  was   considered  by 

them  as  a  superior  being,  when  he  exhibited  Bruce's  drawings  of  Gondar.    (Ibid.)     In 

1 
many  other    instances   he   bears   ample    testimony   to   Bruce's  accuracy.     (See  vol.  II. 

p.  460.  480.  &c. ;  vol.  III.  pp.  163.211.  217.     See  also  the  instances  adduted  in  the 

Edinb.  Encyclop.  vol.  V.  Part  I.  pp.  9,  10.)     When  to  all  this  is  added  the  evidence 

afforded  by  the  celebrated  Browne  (See  Preface  to  his  Travels),  in  support  of  the  few 

facts  which  are  questioned  by  Mr.  Salt,  and  the  opinion  given   of  his  work    by  the 

Commander-in-chief  of  the  British  army  sent  from  India  by  the  Red  Sea,  as  before 

alluded  to,  we  may  surely  consider  the  writings  o(  this  illustrious   traxeller  to  be  placed 

beyond  the  reach  of  cavil  :  and   we  ought   to  agree  with  that  profound   scholar,  (See 

Vincent's    Periplus  of  the  Erythr.  Sea,  p  93  )   who,    maintaining  that   Bruce's   work 

"bears  throughout  internal  marks  of  veracity,"  considered  it  to   be  a  duty  "  not  to 

TREAT  WrITH   INGRATITUDE  THOSE  WHO  EXfLORE  THE  DESERT  FOR  OUR  INFORMATION." 


CHAP. 


.»yiwrt<» 


Hi 


CHAP.   III. 


CHAP.  HI. 


Arabic  Lan- 
guage, as 
spoken  in 
■Egypt. 


GRAND     CAIRO. 

.Arabic  Language,  as  spoken  in  Egypt — Dress  of  the  Women  in  Cairo — 
State  of  Society — Houses — Gardens — Ceremony  of  Ululation  in 
honour  of  the  Dead—  Exaggerated  descriptions  of  the  Country  — 
Supposed  Sacrifice  of  a  Virgin  to  the  Nile — Book  Market — Antient 
Medals  in  circulation —  Custom  of  the  Arabs  in  passing  a  Bridge — 
Appearance  of  Women  in  the  Streets — Enormities  practised  by  the 
Turks — Extortions — Discovery  of  a  curious  Manuscript —  Citadel — 
Pointed  Arches — Interesting  Inscription — Mosaic  Painting — Present 
State  of  the  Art — Joseph's  Well — Origin  of  the  Citadel — View 
from  the  Ramparts. 

Any  Englishman  hearing  a  party  of  Egyptian  Arabs  in 
conversation,  and  being  ignorant  of  their  language,  would 
suppose  they  were  quarrelling.  The  Arabic,  as  spoken  by 
Arabs,  is  more   guttural   even   than  the  Welsh ;    but   the 

dialect 


GRAND     CAIRO.  6*9 

dialect  of  Egypt  appeared  to  us  to  be  particularly  harsh,      chap.  in. 
It  is  always  spoken  with  a  vehemence  of  gesticulation,  and 
loudness  of  tone,  which  is  quite  a  contrast  to  the  stately 
sedate  manner  of  speaking  among  the  Turks  :  we  were  con- 
stantly impressed  with  a  notion  that  the  Arabs,  in  conver- 
sation, were  quarrelling.     More  than  once  we  ordered  the 
interpreter  to  interfere,   and  to  pacify  them,  when  it   ap- 
peared that  we  were  mistaken,  and  that  nothing  was  further 
from  their  feelings,  at  the  time,  than  anger.     The  effect  is 
not  so  unpleasing  to  the  ear  when  Arab  women  converse ; 
although    the   gesticulation    is    nearly    the    same.       Signor 
Rosetti1,   whose     hospitality    to  strangers    has    been   cele- 
brated   by   every   traveller   in   Egypt    during   nearly   half 
a  century,  introduced  us  to  a  Venetian  family,  of  the  name 
of  Pint  -,  in  which  there  were  many  beautiful  young  women, 
and  with  whom  we  had  frequent  opportunity  of  hearing  the 
Arabic  as  spoken  by  the  most  polished  females  of  the  city. 
The  dress  of  those  young  ladies  was  much  more  elegant  than    Dress  of  the 
any  female  costume  we  had  before  observed  in  the  East,  and    Cairo. 
it  was  entirely  borrowed  from  the  Antients.    A  zone  placed 
immediately  below  the  bosom  served  to  confine  a  loose  robe, 
open  in  front,  so  as  to  display  a  pair  of  rich  pantaloons.     The 

feet 


(1)  Mr.  Bruce  mentions  him  (Trav.  vol.1,  p.  30.  Edin.  1790.)  under  the  name  of 
"  Carlo  Rosetti,  a  Venetian  merchant,  a  young  man  of  capacity  and  intrigue."  Bruce 
was  in  Cairo  in  the  beginning  of  July  1768.  Signor  Rosetti  told  us  he  well  remem- 
bered Bruce,  and  entertained  no  doubt  as  to  the  truth  of  the  narrative  which  he 
published  concerning  his  travels. 

(2)  "There  is  also  at  Cairo  a  Venetian  Consul,  and  a  house  of  that  nation  called 
Pini,  all  excellent  people."     Bruce's  Trav.  vol.  I.  p.  2(5. 


<$<3&< 


:'i.v-.':  ?*■'*■: 


%>-±j.'i<4Jk?4  <*i->*3X;         £'?ivf>.' £/■'>■•*.«* 


m 


70 


CHAP.  HI. 


State  of 
Society. 


GRAND    CAIRO. 

feet  were  covered  with  embroidered  slippers,  but  the  ankle 
and  instep  were  naked;  and  round  the  lower  part  of  the  leg, 
above  the  ankle,  they  wore  large  cinctures  of  massive  gold  ; 
like  that  which  was  discovered  in  a  tomb  upon  the  Cimme- 
rian Bosporus,  and  represented  in  a  former  part  of  this  work l. 

Denon  speaks  of  the  pleasurable  sensations  daily  excited 
by  the  delicious  temperature  of  Cairo,  causing  Europeans,  who 
arrive  with  the  intention  of  spending  a  few  months  in  the 
city,  to  remain  during  the  rest  of  their  lives,  without  ever 
persuading  themselves  to  leave  it.  Few  of  those,  how- 
ever, with  whom  we  associated,  were  disposed  to  acquiesce 
in  the  opinion  of  this  very  amiable  writer.  Persons  studious 
of  uninterrupted  repose,  or  capable  of  tolerating  the  endless 
monotony  which  society  exhibits  in  every  family  where 
strangers  are  received,  may  perhaps  endure,  without  mur- 
muring, a  temporary  residence  in  the  midst  of  disease  and 
dirt  and  torpid  inactivity. 

The  effect,  whether  it  be  of  climate,  of  education,  or  of  go- 
vernment, is  the  same  among  all  settlers  in  Egypt,  except  the 
Arabs ;  a  disposition  to  exist  without  exertion  of  any  kind  ;  to 
pass  whole  days  upon  beds  and  cushions,  smoking,  and  count- 
ing beads.  This  is  what  Maillet  termed  Le  vrai  gthiie  Egyp- 
tierme*;  and  that  it  maybe  acquired  by  residing  among  the 
native  inhabitants  of  Cairo,  is  evident  from  the  appearance  ex- 
hibited by  Europeans  who  have  passed  some  years  in  the  city. 

When 


(1)  See  Part  I.  chap.  xvii.  p.  398.    Second  Edition. 

(2)  Description  de  l'Egypte,  torn.  II.  p.  220.    a  la  Haye,  1?40. 


GRAND     CAIRO. 


71 


When  we  first  arrived,  we  had  no  other  place  of  lodging  .chap.hi. 
than  what  our  djerm  afforded.  This  was  stationed,  during  the 
day,  at  Bulac,  and  guarded  by  our  faithful  Arabs.  Every  night 
these  men  moved  it  over  to  the  Isle  of  Rhouda,  and  anchored 
close  to  the  camp  of  the  Indian  army,  in  order  to  avoid  the 
mice,  flies,  vermin,  and  dust,  which  infested  us  from  the  quay, 
and  prevented  our  rest.  But,  after  a  short  time,  we  procured 
a  large  house,  which  had  been  inhabited  by  French  officers, 
in  a  very  populous  part  of  the  city,  near  the  residence  of 
Signor  Rosetti.  This  greatly  added  to  our  facility  of  seeing 
the  city,  and  observing  the  manners  of  its  inhabitants. 

Their  best  houses  answer  to  the  description  given  in  a  Houses. 
former  part  of  this  work,  of  the  palace  of  an  Armenian 
merchant,  at  Nicotia  in  Cyprus3.  The  taste  shewn  in 
decorating  their  apartments  is  of  the  kind  called  Arabesque : 
this,  although  early  introduced  into  England  from  the 
Cast,  is  not  Saracenical,  but  Egyptian*.  It  is  a  style  which 
the  Greeks  themselves  adopted,  and  it  was  received 
amongst  the  Romans  in  the  time  of  Augustus.  Where  the 
windows  are  glazed,  which  generally  consist  of  open  lattice- 
work, they  are  ornamented  with  stained  glass,  repre- 
senting landscapes  and  animals,  particularly  the  lion,  which 
seemed  to  be  a  favourite  subject  in  works  of  this  sort.  No 
one  has  paid  any  attention  to  the  origin  of  the  painted  glass 
in  Cairo.  Do  the  glaziers  of  that  city  still  preserve  an 
art  supposed  to  be  imperfectly  known  in  Europe  ?     From  the 

open 


(3)  See  Part  II.   Sect.  1.  Chap.  xi.  of  these  Travels. 

(4)  See  the  observations  of  Denon,  Trav.  in  Egypt,  vol.  I.  p.  211.    Loncl.  1803, 


72 


GRAND     CAIRO. 


CHAP.  III. 

Gardens. 


Ceremony  of 
Ululation  in 
honour  of  the 
Dead. 


open  terraces  which  are  found  in  many  of  the  principal 
houses,  and  from  the  flat  roofs  common  to  all  of  them, 
a  view  is  presented  over  the  numerous  gardens  of  the  city. 
But  every  thing  is  disfigured,  and  rendered  uncomfortable,  by 
dust ;  all  the  foliage  of  the  trees  is  covered  with  it ;  and 
the  boasted  vegetation  of  Cairo,  (instead  of  displaying  that 
pleasing  verdure  which  Europeans,  and  particularly  English- 
men, picture  to  their  imagination,  in  reading  descriptions 
of  a  city  filled  with  groves  and  gardens,)  rather  exhibits  the 
dull  and  uniform  colour  of  the  desert. 

Upon  the  first  evening  after  our  removal  to  our  new 
habitation,  we  were  serenaded  by  a  species  of  vocal 
melody,  which  we  had  never  heard  before.  It  began 
about  sun-set,  and  continued,  with  little  intermission, 
not  only  all  the  night,  but  during  many  succeeding  nights 
and  days.  We  were  at  first  doubtful  whether  the  sounds 
we  heard  were  expressions  of  joy  or  of  lamentation.  A  sort 
of  chorus  mixed  with  screams,  yet  regulated  by  the  beating 
of  tambourines,  now  swelling  upon  the  ear,  now  expiring 
in  cadences,  was  repeated  continually;  and  as  often  as  it 
seemed  to  cease,  we  heard  it  renewed  with  increased  vehe- 
mence. Having  inquired  the  cause,  we  were  told  that  it 
was  nothing  more  than  the  usual  ceremony  of  bewailing 
a  deceased  person,  by  means  of  female  mourners  hired  for 
the  occasion.  This  very  curious  relique  of  the  Ululation  of 
the  Antients,  it  may  be  supposed,  was  not  suffered  to  pass 
without  further  notice.  We  sent  our  interpreter  to  the 
house  whence  the  sounds  proceeded,  desiring  him  to  pay 
particular  attention  to  the  words"  used  by  the  choristers  in 

their 


GRAND     CAIRO. 

their  lamentation.  He  told  us,  upon  his  return,  that  we 
mi"-ht,  if  we  thought  proper,  have  the  same  ceremony  per- 
formed in  our  apartments  :  that  the  singers  were  women, 
hired  to  sing  and  lament  in  this  manner;  the  wealthier  the 
family,  the  more  numerous  were  the  persons  hired,  and,  of 
course,  the  louder  the  lamentations :  that  those  female 
singers  exhibited  the  most  frightful  distortions,  having 
their  hair  dishevelled,  their  clothes  torn,  and  their  counte- 
nances daubed  with  paint  and  dirt ;  that  they  were  relieved 
at  intervals  by  other  women  similarly  employed  ;  and  thus 
the  ceremony  may  be  continued  for  any  length  of  time. 
A  principal  part  of  their  art  consists  in  mingling  with 
their  Ululation  such  plaintive  expressions  of  praise  and  pity, 
such  affecting  narrative  of  the  employments,  possessions, 
and  characteristics  of  the  deceased,  and  such  inquiry  as  to  his 
reasons  for  leaving  those  whom  he  professed  to  love  during 
life,  as  may  excite  the  tears  and  sighs  of  the  relations  and 
friends  collected  about  the  corpse.  From  all  this,  and  the 
information  we  afterwards  obtained,  it  is  evident  that  this 
practice,  together  with  the  caoinan  of  the  Irish ',  and  the 
funeral  cry  of  other  nations2,    are   remains  of  ceremonies 

practised 


73 


CHAP.  III. 


(1)  See  an  account  of  the  Ceremony  of  Ululation  among  the  Irish,  as  taken  from 
the  Transactions  of  the  Royal  Irish  Academy,  in  Dr.  Adam  Clarke 's  Edition  of 
"  Harmers  Observations,"  vol.  III.  p.  40.  Loud.  1808.  Among  other  expressions  used 
by  the  Irish  mourners,  they  continually  repeat  the  words  "  Ullaloo  !  Ullaloo  ! 
why  didst  thou  die?"  "The  Ullaloo  of  the  Irish,"  says  the  learned  Editor  of  H.irmer's 
work,  "  is  the  same,  both  in  sense  and  sound,  with  the  jj  J  oolooleh  of  the  Arabians, 
the  ululo  of  the  Romans,  the  6\o\vfa  of  the  Greeks;  and  the  bV  yalal  of  the  Hebrews." 

(2)  The  custom  seems  to  have  been  universal ;  for  it  has  been  observed 
among  the  descendants  of  the  three  great  families ;  the  Arab,  the  Tartar,  and  the 

VOL.  III.  L  Goth- 


. 


GRAND      CAIRO. 

practised  in  honour  of  the  dead  in  almost  every  country  of 
the  earth;  they  are  the  same  that  Homer  describes  at  the 
death  of  Hector1;  and  they  are  frequently  alluded  to  in 
sacred  record2: — "Call  for  the  mourning  women,  that 

THEY  MAY  COME  ;  AND  SEND  FOR  CUNNING  WOMEN,  THAT 
THEY  MAY  COME  :  And  LET  THEM  MAKE  HASTE,  AND  TAKE 
UP  A  WAILING  FOR  US,  THAT  OUR  EYES  MAY  RUN  DOWN  WITH 
TEARS,    AND  OUR  EYELIDS  GUSH  OUT  WITH  WATERS." 

Exaggerated  As  one  writer  of  travels   has  copied  another,   the  same 

Descriptions  ' 

oftheCountry.  absurd  descriptions  are  continually  given  of  the  luxuries  of 
Egypt,  during  the  inundation  of  the  Nile.  That  its  gardens, 
from  the  novelty  of  the  plants  found  in  them,  are  sometimes 
pleasing  to  the  eye  of  a  European,  may  be  admitted ;  and  it 
has  been  before  acknowledged,  that  the  plantations  adorning 
the  sides  of  the  canal  may  for  a  short  time  render  a  stranger 

unmindful 


Goth.  The  Arab,  as  here  related.  The  Tartar,  as  in  Russia.  (See  Olearius,  lib.  iii. 
p.  143.  Land.  1662.)  The  Goth,  Getce,  or  Greeks,  as  we  learn  from  Homer.  It  is 
found  even  among  the  Greenlanders.  "  The  women  continue  their  weeping  and  la- 
mentation. Their  how  I  is  all  in  one  tone  ;  as  if  an  instrument  were  to  play  a  tremulous 
fifth  downwards,  through  all  the  semitones.  Now  and  then  they  pause  a  little."  See 
Crantz's  History  of  Greenland,  vol.  I.  p.23Q.  Lond.  1767'  See  also  Part  I.  of  these 
Travels,  p.  192,  Second  Edit,  for  an  account  of  the  same  custom  in  Russia. 

(1)  Tlapd  o'  eTaav  aotcWc, 

Qpijvuv  t^dp\ovq,  dire  OTOvotcroav  doifojv 

Ot  ficv  dp   tdptjveov,  tTrl  Be  tjrtvdyovro  yvvcuKt<;. 

"  Juxtaque  collocarunt  cantores 

Luctus  principes  :  hi  flebile  carmen, 

Hi  quidem  lamentabantur :  insuperque  gemebant  mulieres." 

Homer i  Iliados,  lib.  xxiv.  p.  425.    Ed.  Spond.    Basil.  1606. 

(2)  Jer.  ix.  17,  18.     See  also  2Chron.  xxxv.  25.    Judges  xi.  3Q,  40.     Amos  v.  16. 
also  Mark  v.  38.  &c.  &c. 


GRAND    CAIRO. 


75 


unmindful  of  the  filth  and  wretchedness  of  the  city.  As  for  t  chap,  hi. 
the  boasted  lakes,  or  rather  mud-pools,  into  which  the 
waters  of  the  river  are  then  received,  particularly  the 
famous  Esbequir  Birket3,  these  would  certainly  be  consi- 
dered nuisances  in  any  part  of  the  civilized  world.  The 
canal  had  been  cut  about  three  days  when  we  arrived ;  and 
every  one  was  still  telling  of  the  rejoicings  and  ceremonies 
which  that  event  had  occasioned.  These  have  been  all 
described,  until  it  were  tedious  to  renew  the  subject. 
Some   of  our  officers    saw   the   pillar,    or   statue,   of  mud,    supposed 

Sacrifice  of  a 

which  is  raised  every  year  between  the  dyke  of  the  canal  ^|in  t0  the 
and  the  Nile,  called  Jnes,  or  The  Bride  \  and  after- 
wards carried  away  by  the  current,  when  the  water  from 
the  river  is  suffered  to  fall  into  the  canal.  This  curious 
custom  is  said  to  have  given  rise  to  the  fabulous  story  of  an 
annual  sacrifice  -of  a  virgin   to  the  Nile5.     Niebuhr  says, 

however, 


(3)  It  is  quite  amusing  to  read  some  of  the  accounts  published  of  this  place,  and 
to  contrast  them  with  the  real  appearance.  "  Rien  nest  plus  agreable  que  de  voir  un 
terrein,  qui  pendant  huit  nwis  de  I'annee  est  un  prodigieux  bassin  rempli  d'eau,  devenu 
pendant  les  quatre  autres  un  jardin  riant  et  perpe'luel."  Descript.  de  l'Egypte  par 
Maillet,  torn.  I.  p.  263.  a  la  Haye,  IJAO.  The  same  author  speaks  of  the  houses 
ornamenting  the  sides  of  this  lake  ;  whereas  Denon  observes,  "  the  less  the  houses  were 
visible,  the  more  they  would  please."  Trav.  in  Egypt,  vol.  I.  ?•  105.  Lond.  1803.  In 
fact,  nothing  can  be  more  wretched  than  either  the  one  or  the  other ;  the  filthy  pool 
called  a  lake;  or  the  hovels,  described  by  many  authors  as  stately  and  elegant  buildings. 

(4)  See  Niebuhr's  Travels,  vol.  I.  p.  69.    Edin.  \7gi. 

(5)  Ibid.  See  also  De  Tott,  vol.11,  p. 243.  Lond.  1785.  De  Tott  says,  the 
antient  Egyptians  called  the  sacrifice  Arroussee,  The  new  Bride.  This  name,  he  observes, 
is  still  preserved  in  the  more  humanized  ceremony.  Moreri  (Diet.  Hist.  torn.  VII. 
p.  1041.  Paris,  1759,)  thus  speaks  of  the  sacrifice,  as  having  really  existed:  "  Les 
Egyptiens  idoldtres  s'imuginoicnt  que  leur  dieu  Serapis  etoit  I'auteur  de  ce  debordement 
merveilleux  du  Nil :  ainsi  lorsqu'il  retardoit,  Us  lui  sacrifioient  une  Jille,  &c.     Cette 

barlare 


BIBdm^b^hK^HC 


WBW 


.  <.>';■*#/*  *ift#.&*tfr£2*4t*tl*-ljP 


ki:*t$*W{*i&<. 


76 


CHAP.  III. 


GRAND     CAIRO. 

however,  that  the  pillar  of  earth  serves  as  a  sort  of  Nilo- 
meter,  for    the   use  of  the  common   people';    and    this    is 
probably  the  only  use  for  which  it  was  ever  intended.     We 
entered  the  canal,  in  our  djerm,  about  noon,  on  the  fifteenth 
of  August ;  and  after  making  the  tour  of  nearly  the  whole 
city,  by  means  of  the  canal,  and  a  series  of  dykes  filled  with 
the  muddy  water  of  the  river,  we  at  last  entered  the  Es- 
bequir    Lake,    or  Birket   il  Ezbequie,   at    six    o'clock    p.  m. 
Having  crossed  this  piece  of  water,  we  landed,  and  went  to 
the  house  we   had  taken ;  observing  everywhere  the  same 
uniform    appearance   of  dirt  and  degradation.    The   inha- 
bitants, rejoicing  in  the  expulsion  of  the  French,  and  enjoying 
the  festivity  of  the  season,  were  carousing  by  the  sides  of  the 
numerous  channels  then  filled  with  the  foul  and  stagnant 
water  of  the  Nile.     Some  degree   of  danger  too   might  be 
annrehended   from    the    turbulent    mirth   of   Turkish   sol- 
diers,  who  were  firing  ofF  their  carabines  in  all  directions ; 

or 


barlare  devotion  fut  abolie,  disent  les  historiens  Arales,  par  le  Calife  Omar."  Neither 
Moreri,  however,  nor  any  other  author  by  whom  this  circumstance  is  related,  mentions 
his  authority  for  the  fact.  Mentelle  (Geogr.  Anc.  torn.  II.  p.  441.  Paris,  1/8Q) 
alludes  to  the  same  custom.  The  whole  story  seems  to  be  founded  upon  a  passage  in 
the  writings  of  Murtadi,  an  Arabian,  who  gave  a  legendary  account  of  the  "  Won- 
ders of  E"ypt,"  which  is  nevertheless  mentioned  in  terms  of  commendation  by  Gibbon, 
(Chap.li.  Note  128.  Hist.  &c.)  This  work  was  composed  in  the  13th  century,  and 
was  afterwards  translated  by  Vatier  at  Paris,  1666. — Murtadi  affirms  that  the  annual 
sacrifice  of  a  virgin  was  abolished  by  the  Caliph  Omar.  But  human  sacrifices  were  never 
tolerated  by  the  antient  Egyptians.  Herodotus  reproaches  the  Greeks  with  having  enter- 
tained a  contrary  opinion  {Euterpe,  c.  45.  p.  \06.  ed.  Gronov.  L.  Bat.  1/15) ;  and  it  is  less 
probable  that  such  sacrifices  were  suffered  to  take  place  at  the  time  of  Omar's  conquest., 
when  the  Christians  were  in  possession  of  Egypt. 
(1)  Niebuhr,  vol.  I.  p.  69. 


GRAND    CAIRO. 


77 


or  else  the  sight  of  so  many  cheerful  groupes  afforded  of 
itself  a  much  more  pleasing  spectacle,  than  either  the 
buildings  of  the  city  or  its  boasted  canal.  But  how  Euro- 
peans, in  speaking  of  Cairo,  can  call  any  thing  magnificent 
which  is  surpassed  even  by  the  poorest  parts  of  Venice,  is 
truly  surprising.  To  read  some  of  the  descriptions  which 
have  been  given  of  this  city2,  one  would  fancy  them  derived 
from  the  inflated  accounts  of  Arabian  writers,  who,  having 
never  seen  any  thing  finer  than  Cairo,  speak  of  it  as  the 
"Wonder  of  the  world"  the  "Delight  of  the  imagination" 
"  the  Great  among  the  great,"  the  Holy  City3.  In  fact,  it  may 
be  said  of  Cairo,  as  of  Egypt  in  general,  that  it  has  always 
been  the  subject  of  exaggeration,  from  the  earliest  periods 
of  its  history4. 

We  often  visited  the  book-market,  and  found  no  sight 
more  interesting  than  the  prodigious  number  of  beautiful 
manuscripts  offered  there  for  sale.  A  Catalogue,  pub- 
lished in  the  Appendix  to  the  First  Section  of  this  Part 
of  our  Travels,  will  serve  to  render  the  great  variety  of 
works  in  Oriental  literature,  which  are  upon  daily  sale  in 
the  cities  of  the  East,  more  known  than  it  has  hitherto 
been5.    We  purchased  many  of  these  manuscripts.    Writings 

of 


CHAP.  III. 


Book  Market. 


(2)  "  Cette  grande  et  illustre  ville,"  says  Vansleb,  (p.  117.  Nouvelle  Re- 
lation dun  Voyage  en  Egypte,  Paris,  1077.)     "  Elle  est  situe'e  dans  une  plaine  la 

PLUS  DELICIEUSE   DU  MONDE."        {Ibid.  p.  120.) 

(3)  See  Denon's  Trav.  vol.1,  p.  103.    Lond.  1803. 

(4)  "  I  never  saw  a  place  I  liked  worse,  nor  which  afforded  less  pleasure  or  in- 
struction, than  Cairo,  nor  antiquities  which  less  answered  their  descriptions."  Brace's 
Travels,  vol.  I.  p.  33.    Edinb.  179O. 

(5)  See  Part  the  Second,  Section  the  First.     Appendix,  No.  II. 


78 


CHAP.  III. 


GRAND     CAIRO. 

of  any  celebrity  bear  very  high  prices,  especially  famous 
works  in  History,  Astronomy,  Geography,  and  Natural 
History.  The  Mamalukes  are  more  fond  of  reading  than 
the  Turks ;  and  some  of  their  libraries,  in  Cairo,  contained 
volumes  of  immense  price.  The  French  had  been  guilty 
of  so  much  plunder,  that  the  booksellers,  as  well  as  other 
tradesmen,  had  for  some  time  concealed  their  most  valu- 
able property.  The  best  manuscripts  were,  therefore, 
only  beginning  to  be  exposed  for  sale.  During  our 
inquiry  after  a  complete  copy  of  the  "  Arabian  Nights ," 
a  bookseller  said  he  knew  where  to  find  a  copy  of  this 
work;  but  that  its  owner  had  carefully  concealed  it, 
through  fear  of  the  French.  The  title  of  this  compila- 
tion, in  Arabic,  "  Alif  Lila  va  Lilin,"  is  vulgarly  pro- 
nounced, by  the  dealers  in  Cairo,  Alf  Leela  o  Lila.  To 
our  very  great  joy,  this  manuscript,  or  rather  collection  of 
manuscripts,  was  brought  to  us,  in  four  quarto  cases,  con- 
taining One  hundred  and  seventy- two  Tales, 'separated  into 
One  thousand  and  one  portions,  for  recital  during  the  same 
number  of  Nights.  Each  case  contained  about  fifty  numbers, 
sewed  up  like  so  many  loose  manuscript  sermons.  The 
whole  was  fairly  written  ;  and  the  price  set  upon  it  amounted 
only  to  the  moderate  sum  of  one  hundred  piastres,  (about 
seven  pounds  English,)  according  to  the  state  of  exchange 
at  that  time.  We  bought  it ;  and  its  lamentable  fate  has 
been  before   related1.      This  is  to  be  the    more  regretted, 

because 


(l)  See  Note  (l),  p.  51  of  the  former  volume. 


GRAND    CAIRO. 


79 


because  many  of  the  tales8  related  to  Syrian  and  Egyptian 
customs  and  traditions,  and  have  not  been  found  in  any 
other  copy  of  the  same  work. 

A  few  cursory  observations  may  now  be  introduced, 
as  they  were  made,  and  as  the  author  finds  them  occurring 
in  his  journal.  Who  could  have  believed  that  antient 
Roman  coins  were  still  in  circulation  in  any  part  of  the 
world  ?  yet  this  is  strictly  true.  We  noticed  Roman 
copper  medals  in  Cairo,  as  given  in  exchange  in  the  markets 
among  the  coins  of  the  country,  and  valued  at  something 
less  than  our  halfpenny.  What  is  more  remarkable,  we 
obtained  some  of  the  large  bronze  medals  of  the  Ptolemies, 
circulating  at  higher  value,  but  in  the  same  manner.  The 
manufacture  of  silk  and  cotton  handkerchiefs  had  been 
taught  to  the  inhabitants  by  the  French.  Such  handker- 
chiefs were  then  selling  for  seven  shillings  English  each ; 
and  it  was  in  buying  these  that  we  first  noticed  the  cir- 
culation of  the  antient  among  the  modern  money  of 
Egypt.  The  Arabs,  wlio  generally  sing  during  labour, 
use  the  antient  Hebrew  invocation  of  the  Deity  while  they 
are  passing,  in  their  boats,  beneath  a  bridge ;  calling  out 
Elohe  !  Elohe  !  in  a  plaintive  singing  tone  of  voice 3.  The 
females  of  Cairo  are  often  seen,  in  the  public  streets,  riding 
upon  asses  and  upon  mules :  they  sit  in  the  masculine 
attitude,  like  the  women  of  Naples  and  other  parts  of  Italy. 

Their 


CHAP.  HI. 


Antient  Me- 
dals in  circu- 
lation. 


Custom  of  th« 
Arabs  in  pass- 
ing a  Bridge. 


Appearance  of 
Women  in 
the  Streets, 


(2)  See  the  List  given  in  No.  III.  of  the  Appendix  to  the  preceding  section  of  Part 
the  Second  of  these  Travels. 

(3)  See  Genesis  xxxiii.  20.  also  Mark  xv.  34. 


80 


CHAP.  III. 


Enormities 
practised  by 
the  Turks. 


GRAND     CAIRO. 

Their  dress  consists  of  a  hood,  and  cloak,  extending  to  the 
feet,  with  a  stripe  of  white  calico  in  front,  concealing  the 
face  and  breast,  but  having  two  small  holes  for  the  ej  es. 
In  this  disguise,  if  any  man  should  meet  his  own  wife,  or 
his  sister,  he  would  not  be  able  to  recognise  her,  unless  she 
were  to  speak  to  him ;  and  this  is  seldom  done,  because  the 
suspicious  Moslems,  observing  such  an  intercourse,  might 
suppose  an  intrigue  to  be  going  on ;  in  which  case  they 
would  put  one,  if  not  both  of  them,  to  death.  The  Turks 
had  committed  great  enormities  in  Cairo,  from  the  first 
moment  of  their  arrival  after  the  capture  of  the  city. 
Wherever  they  found  an  unfortunate  female,  of  whatsoever 
rank,  who  had  admitted  the  embraces  of  a  Frenchman,  or 
of  any  other  Christian,  they  put  her  to  death,  without  the 
smallest  compunction.  We  assisted  three  ladies  in  their 
escape  ;  and  had  the  good  fortune  to  provide  them  with  the 
means  of  concealment,  until  they  reached  the  house  of  a 
relation  in  Alexandria.  A  young  man  who*  lived  in  the 
same  house  with  us,  in  a  set  of  apartments  under  our's,  was 
wounded  by  a  musquet-ball  on  the  day  of  our  arrival.  He 
had  been  looking  from  the  terrace  at  seme  Turks  below, 
when  one  of  them  fired  off  his  piece,  and  shot  him.  The 
only  excuse  made  was,  that  they  mistook  him  for  a  French- 
man. In  like  manner  they  strangled  a  Christian  in  one  of 
the  public  baths  ;  offering  the  same  apology  for  the  act  they 
had  committed.  Notwithstanding  the  circumstance  of  the 
city's  being  at  that  time  garrisoned  by  our  troops,  it  was 
not  safe  to  venture  alone  in  public.  We  were  riding  one 
day  with  a  priest  of  the  Propaganda  monastery,  mounted 

upon 


GRAND    CAIRO. 


81 


upon  asses ;  when  suddenly  a  party  of  Bostanghies,  belonging 
to  a  Turk  of  distinction,  running  before  his  horse,  ordered  us 
to  descend  until  the  grandee  had  passed.  This  we  positively 
refused  to  do ;  upon  which,  not  daring  to  meddle  with  us, 
they  vented  all  their  rage  upon  the  poor  priest,  whom  they 
dragged  from  his  ass,  and  chastised  with  their  white  wands 
in  our  presence.  Complaint  was  accordingly  made  to 
the  officers  of  the  garrison,  and  to  the  Vizier ;  and  a 
promise  obtained  from  the  Turks  of  better  behaviour  in 
future;  upon  which,  however,  little  reliance  could  be  placed. 
The  English  had  a  very  small  force,  at  that  time,  in  Cairo ; 
and  it  was  deemed  prudent  not  to  exasperate  a  fanatical 
mob,  by  any  violation  of  their  pride  or  their  prejudices, 
when  it  could  be  avoided.  The  events  that  took  place 
afterwards,  in  Egypt,  fully  justified  this  precaution.  Never- 
theless, orders  had  been  issued,  that  no  Englishman  should 
be  compelled  to  descend  and  humble  himself  before  a 
Moslem,  which  caused  us  to  offer  the  resistance  we  had 
made. 

Soon  after  this  adventure,  descending  from  our  house  to 
a  part  of  the  canal  where  our  djerm  was  stationed,  With  a 
view  to  make  an  excursion  upon  the  water,  we  found  it 
completely  filled  by  a  party  of  dastardly  Turks ;  who  had 
expelled  the  worthy  Reis,  to  whom  the  boat  belonged, 
together  with  his  crew,  and  had  taken  full  possession  of  it, 
for  their  own  use.  These  grave  personages  were  seated, 
quite  at  their  ease,  with  their  pipes  lighted;  and  were 
moving  off  in  great  state,  as  we  arrived.  There  was  not 
much  time  to  be  lost  in  idle  parley;  so  we  all  leaped,  from 

vol.  in.  m  the 


CHAP.  III. 


■1 


82 


CHAP.  III. 


Extortious. 


.    GRAND    CAIRO. 

the  side  of  the  canal,  into  the  midst  of  the  self-constituted 
divan,  whose  members  instantly  surrendered,  with  great 
seeming  humility,  and,  being  landed,  scampered  01T  with 
more  speed  and  less  composure  than  usually  characte- 
rizes the  Turkish  deportment.  The  matter,  however,  did 
not  end  here.  Watching  the  opportunity  when  our  good 
Reis  was  again  left  to  the  guardianship  of  his  djerm,  they 
bound  him  hand  and  foot,  and  carried  him  to  a  house  in  the 
neighbourhood,  where  they  bastinadoed  him  most  unmerci- 
fully, by  way  of  wreaking  their  vengeance  upon  us,  for 
the  indignity  they  had  experienced ;  nor  could  we  ever 
bring  the  offenders  to  justice,  or  obtain,  for  the  person  they 
had  thus  injured,  the  slightest  redress.  Such  was  the  state  of 
affairs  in  Grand  Cairo,  at  the  time  the  English  were  in  pos- 
session of  the  city.  It  may  be  easily  imagined,  therefore,  what 
the  situation  of  its  Christian  inhabitants  must  be,  when  all 
things  are  left  to  the  discretion  of  its  Mahometan  masters. 
The  extortions  practised  upon  the  inhabitants  exceed  all 
credibility.  The  French,  at  one  time,  levied  a  contribution 
of  ten  millions  of  piastres ;  and  of  this  sum  a  single  mer- 
chant paid  fifty  thousand  dollars.  The  same  person,  upon 
the  subsequent  arrival  of  the  Grand  Vizier  with  his  armv, 
was  compelled  to  pay  the  enormous  sum  of  three  hundred 
and  sixty  thousand  dollars.  Neither  Buonaparte  nor  Kleber 
distressed  the  people  of  Cairo,  by  their  extortions,  so  much 
as  did  Menou,  who,  in  the  latter  part  of  his  tyrannical 
government,  omitted  no  measures  whereby  he  might 
plunder  the  inhabitants  of  their  property.  Nothing  was 
too  mean  for  his   avarice;    nothing  large    enough   for   his 

rapacity. 


GRAND     CAIRO. 


83 


rapacity.      In  addition  to  all  the  privations  and  horrors  the      chap.  in. 
citizens  had  endured,  the  plague  spread  its  ravages  to  every 
corner  of  the  city,  and  thirty-two  thousand  persons,  in  one 
year,  became  its  victims.     A  disorder,  not  less  fatal  than  the 
plague,  (the  dysentery,)  begins  to  prevail  when  the  plague 
retires ;    but    this    principally    attacks    strangers.     Colonel 
Stewart's  regiment,  quartered  at  Djiza,  near  the  Pyramids, 
was  reduced,  by  this  complaint,  in  one  month,  from  three 
hundred  men  to  seventy.     The  Colonel  was  lodged  in  the 
palace  of  Murad  Bey.     Of  this  edifice  it  is  difficult  to  give 
an   idea  by  description  :    it  contained  barracks    capable  of 
quartering  sixty  thousand  men,  including  a  very  great  pro- 
portion of  cavalry;  together  with  a  cannon-foundry,  and 
every  thing  necessary  for  the  immense  system  of  warfare 
carried  on  by  that  prince,  who  rivalled  in  wealth  and  power 
the  antient  sovereigns  of  Egypt. 

Upon  the  nineteenth  of  August,  our  friend  Mr.  Discovery  of  a 
Hammer  breakfasted  with  us,  and  brought  with  him  script. 
a  valuable  Arabic  manuscript,  presented  to  him  by 
the  Consul  Rosetti,  of  very  diminutive  size,  but  most 
exquisitely  written.  The  translation  of  it,  by  Mr. 
Hammer,  has  since  been  published  in  England ;  and 
this  work,  although  hitherto  little  regarded  by  the 
public,  merits  particular  notice.  It  professes  to  explain 
the  hieroglyphics,  and  many  antient  alphabets ;  giving, 
moreover,  an  account  of  the  Egyptian  priests,  their 
classes,   initiation,  and  sacrifices1.     It  illustrates  the  origin 

of 


(l)  For  this  publication  the  world  is  indebted  to  the  munificent  patronage  of  Earl 
Spenser  and  of  Sir  Joseph  Banks,  at  whose  expense,  principally,  the  undertaking  took 

place  3 


-i..VJi:/;;* £'•*>". '^-i  ,4fA.f.'*i*«i&*    *i'*^'*   '^f-.X-V' 


84 


CHAP.  III. 


Citadel. 


Pointed 
Arches. 


GRAND    CAIRO. 

of  placing  embalmed  birds  in  tbe  catacombs  of  Saccara  ; 
a  circumstance  that  will  be  again  alluded  to,  in  describing 
those  subterraneous  repositories. 

We  then  set  out  for  the  Citadel.     After  the  numerous 
accounts  published  of  this  place,  it  were  useless   to  write 
a  particular  description  of  it2.     The  most  interesting  parts 
of  it  to  an  English  traveller,  as  connected  with  the  history 
of  the  architecture  of  his  country,  are  the  splendid  remains 
of  buildings   erected  by  the  antient  Caliphs  of  Egypt,  par- 
ticularly   the    edifice   vulgarly    called    "    Joseph's    Palace," 
built  by  Sultan  Salah  cd  din,  or  Saladine,  whose  name  was 
Joseph3.     Here   we    beheld   those   pointed   arches,    which, 
although  constructed  soon  after  the  middle  of  the   twelfth 
century,  by  a  fanatic  Moslem4,  (now  ranked  among  the  Ma- 
hometan Saints,  for  his  rigid  adherence  to  all  the  prejudices 

~e 


place  ;  also  to  the  literary  care  of  Dr.  C.  Wilkins,  Librarian  to  the  East-India  Company. 
(See  the  account  given  of  it  in  the  Naval.  Chronicle,  vol.  XXII.  p.  392.)  The  title  is 
as  follows.-  "Antient  Alphabets  and  Hieroglyphic  Characters  explained;  with  an 
Account  of  the  Egyptian  Priests,  their  Classes,  Initiation,  and  Sacrifices,  in  the  Arabic 
Language,  ly  Ahmad  Bin  Abubekr  Bin  Wahshi  ;  and  in  English,  by  Joseph 
Hammer,  Secretary  to  the  Imperial  (Austrian)  Legation  at  Constantinople.  London. 
Nicoll,  Pall-Mall,  1806." 

(2)  "  Aloft,  and  neere  the  top  of  the  mouniaine,  against  the  south  end  of  the  citie, 
stands  the  Castle,  (once  the  stately  mansion  of  the  Mamaluck  Sultans,  and  destroyed 
by  Selymus)  ascended  unto  by  one  way  onely,  and  that  hewne  out  of  the  rocke, 
which  rising  leisurely  with  easie  steps,  and  spacious  distances,  (though  of  a  great  height) 
may  be  on  horsebacke  without  difficultie  mounted."  Sandys'  Travels,  p,  122. 
Lond.  163/.  The  reader  may  be  referred  to  Lord  Falentia's  Travels  for  the  best 
account  of  the  place ;  and,  above  all,  for  the  accurate  and  beautiful  views  of  the 
buildings  in  it,  which  his  lordship  published,  after  Mr.  Salt's  designs  made,  upon  the  spot. 
See  vol.  III."  p.  372,  &c.  Lond.  I8O9.     See  also  Niebuhr,  vol.  I.  p.  5Q.  Edin.  \/Q2. 

(3)  Niebuhr,  Hid. 

(4)  "  In  a  fanatic  age,  himself  a  fanatic."     Gibbon,  vol.  XI.  p.  119.    Lond.  ISO/. 


GRAND    CAIRO. 

of  Islam5,)    certain  English  antiquaries  would  fancifully  at- 
tribute to  the  labours  of  English  workmen6. 

To  increase  the  interest  exited  by  the  examination  of 
Sultan  Saladine's  magnificent  palace,  Mr.  Hammer  had  the 
satisfaction  to  discover,  among  many  Arabic  inscriptions 
yet  remaining  in  the  great  hall  of  the  building,  one  in 
excellent  preservation,  and  in  large  characters,  which  he 
copied,  with  this  legend; 

SALAHEDDIN,    DESTROYER  OF  INFIDELS  AND  HEATHENS; 

so  that  the  origin  of  the  building  and  its  date,  which  before 
rested,  in  great  measure,  on  tradition,  is  thereby  established. 

Had 


85 


(5)  "  All  profane  science  was  the  object  of  his  aversion."     Ibid.  p.  118. 

(6)  See  Milner  on  the  Eccles.  Architect,  of  England.     Not  that,  by  the  removal  of 
this    solitary  objection  to  the   English   origin   of  the  pointed  arch,  any   satisfactory 
conclusion  could  be  drawn,   as  to  the  want  of  its   existence  elsewhere  in   the   East. 
Tliis  kind  of  arch,  according  to  its  very  best  proportions,  as  defined  by  the  advocates 
for  its  English  origin,  (See  Milner,  as  above,  p.  104,  Note  a,)  and  as  it  become  fashion- 
able in  England  between  the  end  of  the  thirteenth  and  the  latter  part  of  the  fifteenth 
century,    is  a  peculiar  characteristic  of  the  architecture  of  the  Saracens  in  Egypt,  in  all 
their  oldest  buildings.    (See  the  designs  of  Luigi  Mayer,  as  published  by  Sir  R.  Ainslie.) 
It  moreover  exists  in  some  of  the  sepulchres  in  Upper  Egypt,  and  among  the  ruins  of 
Tartar   edifices,   in  the  remote  district  of  Madshary,   between  the  Kuma  and  Byvalla 
rivers.'     See  Pallas  s  Travels  in  the  South  of  Russia,  vol.  1.  Plates  xii,  and  xiii,    and 
Vignette  6.     Sec  also  the  remains  of  the  same  style  of   architecture,   Fragmens   des 
Voyages,  PL  xx.  p.  430.  Berne,  1792.      In  the   "  Voyages  de  Chardin,"  tome  troisieme, 
are  several  views  of  the  interior  of  different  Persian  palaces,    of  caravanserais,  bridges, 
&c.     Each  of  these  plates  affords  specimens  of  the  pointed  arch.     There  is  a  remark- 
able curve  in  all  these  arches.    At  about  two-thirds  of  the  distance   from  the  spring 
of  the  arch   to   its   summit,  the  curvature    becomes  convex  to    the   interior  of  the 
arch.     The  same  remark  is  applicable  to  some  pointed  arches  in  the  elevation  and 
section  of  a   sepulchral  monument  at  Mosslof-Kuut,    on  the  river   Podkuma,   at  the 
foot  of  Caucasus,  as  given  in  Pallas' s  Travels,  Plate  xiv.     This  curious  circumstance  of 
the  convex  curvature,  between  the  spring  of  the  arch  and  its  vertex,  is  not,  however, 
peculiar   to  the  pointed   arch  in   the  East :    it  is  found  in  "buildings   erected  in    the 
beginning  of  the  fifteenth  century  in  England.    An  instance  occurs  in  the  arched  niches, 
for  the  reception  of  images,  above  the  altar  of  an  old  church  of  the  Holy  Trinity,   now 
the  Rectory  church,  at  Harlton  in  Cambridgeshire. 


CHAP.  III. 


Interesting 
Inscription. 


86 


CHAP.  III. 


Mosaic 
Painting. 


GRAND    CAIRO. 

Had  it  not  been  for  these  inscriptions,  it  might  have  been 
considered  as  of  higher  antiquity  than  the  age  of  Saladine ; 
for,  in  many  respects,  it  resembles  edifices  erected  in  the 
age    of    Justinian ;    and   particularly   in    the    profusion    of 
Mosaic  painting,    whereby  its    stately    ceilings    and    walls 
are  ornamented.     We  collected  specimens  of  this  Mosaic. 
The  French,   who  made  use  of  the  building  as  an  hospital, 
had  torn  it  down,  in  many  places,  during  their  residence 
here,  and  scattered  it  among  the  rubbish.     It  corresponded, 
in    a    remarkable    manner,     both    by    the    nature    of    its 
composition,  and  by  the   style  of  the  workmanship,  with 
the    mosaic    ornaments   of  St.  Sophia   at    Constantinople; 
containing  the  same  gilded   and  coloured  fritta,  imbedded 
in  fine  mortar,   as   white   as  snow.     The  principal  remains 
of  Mosaic  painting  were  in  a  room  opposite  to  the  great  hall; 
and  the  subjects  so  represented,  exhibited  castles,houses,  trees, 
gardens,  fruit,  flowers,  and  animals.     Among  the  substances 
used  for  this  kind  of  work,  we  observed  pieces  of  the  shell 
called  Mother  of  "Pearl:    this  may  be  considered,    perhaps, 
peculiar  to  the  Mosaic  of  the  age  of  Saladine  ;  as  it  does  not 
appear  among  the  tesselated  pavements  of  the  Antients,  nor  in 
the  Mosaic  of  St.  Sophia.     The  materials  of  antient  Mosaic 
generally   consisted  of  small  pieces   of  variously  coloured 
glass ;    although,  in   some  parts  of  St.  Sophia,    the    tesscrce 
are  of  marble  of  different  hues.     The  curious  art  of  painting 
in  Mosaic  existed  in  a  very  remote  period.     Several  writers 
maintain   that   it  was   derived  originally  from   Persia1;    in 
proof  of  this,  they  cite  the  first  chapter  of  the  book  of  Esther, 

where 


(1)  See  Winkelmann,  Hist.de  VArt,  torn.  II.  p.  157.  Paris,  An  2  de  la  Republique. 


GRAND    CAIRO. 


87 


where  it  is  said  of  the  palace  of  Ahasuerus'  that  "  the  ****•  I|II-'y 
beds  were  of  gold  and  silver,  upon  a  pavement  of  red,  and 
blue,  and  white,  and  black  marble."  Pliny  however 
attributes  the  invention  to  the  Greeks1.  Works  in  Mosaic 
were  by  the  Greeks  appropriated  to  the  pavement  of 
their  temples  and  dwellings.  Many  of  the  floors  in  the 
houses  at  Pompeii  have  this  kind  of  covering.  It  was  in 
a  later  age  that  the  same  sort  of  ornament  was  used  for 
lining  walls,  and  for  coating  the  interior  of  domes  and 
vaulted  buildings4.  In  process  of  time,  tables  were  thus 
constructed,  which,  being  fixed  in  marble  frames,  might  be 
moved  without  loosening  the  tesserce.  Celebrated  pictures 
in  Mosaic,  the  work  of  Grecian  artists,  existed  among  the 
Romans5.  This  admirable  invention,  capable  of  giving 
perpetuity  to  works  in  painting,  has  survived  the  down- 
fall of  letters  ;  but  it  has  never  penetrated  beyond  the 
Alps  :     it    still  exists  in    Italy,  where  it  has  been  carried    Present  state 

1  J  of  the  Art. 

to  a  degree  of  perfection  unknown  in  any  former  age. 
The  finest  works  of  Raphael,  and  of  other  great  masters, 
have  been  thus  copied ;  and  these  copies  may  defy  the  attacks 
to  which  the  originals  were  liable,  while  they  preserve  all 
their  perfections.     Miniature  painting  of  the  most  exquisite 

colouring 

(2)  C.  I.  v.  6. 

(3)  "  Pavimenta  originem  apud  Graecos  habent  elaborata  arte,  picturae  ratione,  donee 
lithostrota  expulcre  earn."     Pirn.  Hist.  Nat.  lib.  xxxvi.  c.  25.  L.Bat.  1635. 

(4)  "  Pulsa  deinde  ex  humo  pavimenta;  in  cameras  transiere,  e  vitro:  novitium 
et  hoc  inventum."  {Ibid.)  "  Ensuite  elle  a  servi  a  revetir  les  voutes  des  batimens." 
Winkelmann,  Hist,  de  VArt,  ubi  supra,  p.  158. 

(5)  Witness  the  celebrated  work  of  Sosus  of  Pergamus,  mentioned  by  Pliny, 
(lib.  xxxvi.  c.  25.)  of  The  Dove  drinking  out  of  a  Vase  of  Water,  found  ,in  Adrian's 

Villa 


^-;*£# 


tiflUMMMl 


88 


CHAP.  III. 


Joseph's  Well. 


GRAND     CAIRO. 

colouring  has  also  been  executed  in  the  same  manner; 
the  artist  using  vitrified  tesserce  of  different  hues,  instead 
of  liquid  colours.  The  gilded  tesserce  which  we  procured 
from  the  Mosaic  of  Saladine's  palace,  resemble,  in  size  and 
appearance,  those  of  the  Mosaics  which  line  the  domes  of 
buildings  in  Rome,  Ravenna,  Milan,  Yenice,  and  Constan- 
tinople ;  all  of  these  were  the  works  of  Grecian  artists,  as 
the  inscriptions  yet  remaining  imply.  Each  tessera  is  a 
cube  of  glass,  of  the  size  of  our  common  playing  dice, 
traversed  by  a  thin  film  of  gold,  in  such  a  manner  that 
the  gold  leaf  does  not  lie  coating  the  exterior  surface,  but 
appears  through  a  vitrified  superficies. 

One  of  the  marvels  of  Egypt,  in  former  times,  was  the 
fountain  belonging  to  the  Citadel,  called  "  Joseph's  Well;' 
but  since  the  country  has  been  accessible  to  enlightened 
travellers,  it  is  no  longer  considered  as  any  thing  extraordi- 
nary1. A  regular  descent,  by  steps,  has  been  cut  to  it, 
through  the  soft  calcareous  rock  on  which  the  Citadel 
stands,  to  the  depth  of  two  hundred  and  seventy-six  feet. 
The  mouth  of  the  well  is  twenty-four  feet  in  length,  and 
eighteen  in  breadth2.     As  an    example  of  human  labour, 

Niebuhr 


Villa  at  Tivoli,  and  lately  preserved  in  the  Capitol  at  Rome  ;  the  celebrated  works  of 
Dioscorides  of  Samos,  found  in  Herculaneum  j  and  the  famous  Mosaic  of  Palestrina.  See 
Winkelmann,  lib.  iv.  c.  8.  sect.  47.     also  lib.  vi.  c.  ?.  sect.  18,  tffc. 

(1)  It  is  not,  in  fact,  the  only  work  of  the  kind  in  the  neighbourhood  of  Cairo. 
The  Consul  Maillet  found  five  other  wells,  of  the  same  nature,  in  the  ruins  of  old 
Cairo.  "  J'en  ai  decouvert  cinq  a-peu-pres  semblables  dans  les  mines  du  vieux  Cairo, 
au  pied  das  montagnes  vers  lesquelles  la  ville  s'elevoit  depuis  les  bords  du  Nil,  par  un 
espece  d' environ  trois-quarts  de  lieue.  Us  sont  de  meme  creuses  dans  le  roc,  et  dune 
profondeur  etonnante."     Descript.  de  I'Egypte,  torn.  I.  p.  269.  a  La  Haye,  1740. 

(2)  Norden's  Travels,  vol.  I.  p.  65.  Lond.  17 57. 


GRAND    CAIRO. 

Niebuhr  considers  it  to  be  not  at  all  comparable  to  the 
works  of  the  antient  Indians,  who  have  cut  whole  pagodas 
in  the  very  hardest  rocks3.  Yet  it  must  be  confessed  that 
few  similar  designs  have  ever  been  attempted ;  and  if 
the  skill  which  has  been  shewn  in  conducting  the  exca- 
vation be  taken  into  consideration,  the  perforations  for 
admitting  light  all  the  way  down,  and  the  general  per- 
fection of  the  work  itself,  it  may  be  compared  rather  to 
the  labours  of  the  antient  Egyptians,  than  to  any  modern 
undertaking. 

Other  parts  of  this  Citadel  afford  reason  to  believe 
that  an  establishment  was  made  here  long  before  the 
time  of  the  Saracen  Caliphs.  Not  to  insist  upon  the 
appearance  of  hieroglyphic  inscriptions  mentioned  by 
Paul  Lucas4,  and  which  perhaps  belonged  to  the  remains 
of  edifices  brought  here  as  building  materials,  yet,  from 
the  size  of  some  of  the  stones  upon  which  a  modern 
superstructure  has  been  raised,  as  well  as  from  the  conformity 
of  its  general  appearance,  as  an  Acropolis,  to  the  plans 
of  the  most  antient  cities,  it  may  be  inferred  that  a 
citadel  existed  here  before  any  Saracen  settlement  had 
taken  place  in  this  part  of  Egypt. 

The  subject  seems  to  merit  more  attention  than  it  has  yet 

received. 


89 


CHAP.  III. 


(3)  Niebuhr's  Travels,  vol.  I.  p.  59.  Edinh.  17Q2. 

(4)  "  J'apperc.us  meme,  sur  quelques-uns  de  ces  pierces,  plusieurs  caracteres  hiero- 
glyphiques  qui  sont  de  la  premiere  antiquite."  Voyage  du  Paul  Lucas,  torn.  II.  p.  126. 
Amst.  1714. 


VOL.   III. 


?* 


BlffljjKFT^'^fflgWqfflWWTpTp 


w&.;\\i*^>uj>s{*txi   I  ^H 


TTIClFJn 


90 


CHAP.  III. 


GRAND    CAIRO. 

received.  Abdol  Caliph,  in  his  History  of  Egypt1,  ascribes 
both  the  Well  and  the  Castle  to  Saladine 2;  but  Shaw,  who 
mentions  this  circumstance,  says,  it  was  the  restoration  of 
the  Citadel,  rather  than  its  construction,  which  should  be 
ascribed  to  Saladine.  Savary,  upon  the  authority  of  an 
Arabian  writer,  maintains  that  the  origin  of  the  city 
and  castle  of  Cairo  must  be  ascribed  to  the  Saracens3. 
Yet,  notwithstanding  Savary' s  Oriental  researches,  the  Ci- 
tadel of  Cairo  may  stand  upon  the  spot  once  occupied  by 
the  Acropolis  of  the  Egyptian  Babylon :  this  opinion, 
maintained  by  Shaw  in  opposition  to  Pococke,  who  assigned 
a  different  position  for  the  Babylonian  fortress4,  is  further 
confirmed  by  the  style  of  the  work  used  in  the  structure ; 
by  the  skill  manifested  in  hewing  the  rock  upon  which 
it  stands,  for  the  way  up  to  it ;  for  the  well ;  and  for 
other  purposes.  Pococke  affirmed  that  the  hill  itself 
seemed  to  have  been  separated,  by  art',  from  the  eastern 
extremity  of  Mount  Mokatam;  and  this  name,  according 
to  Shaw6,  signifies  "  a  mountain  hewn,  or  cut  through." 
Such   immense  labour  is  more  characteristic  of  an  Assyrian 

colony, 


(1)  P.  85.     See  Shaw's  Travels,  vol.11,  p.  265.    Lond.  1757. 

(2)  Salah  Oddin  Joseph  Ebn  Job,  as  written  by  Shaw. 

(3)  Lettres  sur  l'Egypte,  torn.  I.  p.  84.     Paris,  1786. 

(4)  "  Old  Cairo  seems  to  have  succeeded  to  the  town  and  fortress  of  Babylon, 
which  I  imagine  to  have  been  on  Mount  Jehusi,  at  the  south  end  of  Old  Cairo." 
Pococke's  Description  of  the  East,  vol.  I.  p.  25.     Lond.  1743. 

(5)*  Ibid.  p.  32. 

(6)  Shaw's  Travels,  uhi  supra. 


GRAND    CAIRO. 

colony,  than  of  the  Arabians,  in  any  period  of  their  history  : 
and  that  such  a  settlement  was  actually  made  many  ages 
before  the  conquest  of  Egypt  by  the  Arabs,  is  clear  from 
the  evidence  of  Diodorus  Siculus7,  of  Strabo8,  and  of  Jose- 
phus9.  But  long  before  the  foundation,  even  of  the  Egyptian 
Babylon,  an  establishment  had  taken  place  upon  the  same 
spot.  The  situation  of  the  Citadel  of  Cairo  corresponds 
with  the  locality  of  a  city  almost  as  old  as  Memphis.  The 
district  in  which  it  stands  was  the  Land  of  Goshen,  or 
Rameses  of  Scripture,  assigned  by  Joseph  unto  his  father 
and  his  brethren,  that  they  might  be  near  to  the  seat  of  the 
Egyptian  kings'0.  Their  first  settlement  was  in  the  same  terri- 
tory, at  On  ",  the  Bethshemesh  of  the  Prophet  Jeremiah1", 
both  of  which  names  are  rendered,  in  the  Septuagint, 
Heliopolis13;  but  in  their  departure,  according  to  Josephus, 
they  passed  by  the  ruins  of  a  city  called  Letopolisli,  upon 
the  site  of  which  Cambyses  afterwards  erected  the  Egyp- 
tian Babylon". 

Among 


91 


CHAP.  III. 


(7)  Diod.  Sic.  lib.  i.  p.  52.     Hanov.  1604. 

(8)  Strabon.  Geog.  lib.  xvii.  p.  1143.  Ed.  Oxon.  1807. 

(9)  Josephus  de  Antiq.  Jud.  lib.  ii.  c.  15.     Colon.  \QQ\. 

(10)  "  And  thou  shalt  be  near  unto  me,  thou  and  thy  children."    Gen.  xiv.  10. 

(11)  Josephus  uses  the  words  iv  'HAIOYIIOAEI.    Antiq.  lib.  ii.  cap.  A. 

(12)  Jerern.  xliii.  13. 

(13)  'HXtoi/VoXtc. 

(14)  So  called  from  Anrovs,  Latona  Dea.  It  has  been  confounded  with  Latopolis. 
See  the  Notes  to  the  Oxford  edition  of  Strabo,  vol.  II.  p.  1143.  Might  not  the  annual 
sacrifice  of  a  Virgin  to  the  Nile,  which  is  said  by  some  authors  to  have  happened  here, 

at  the  period  of  its  inundation,  have  some  reference  to  the  mythological  history  of  the 
persecution  of  Latona  by  the  Serpent  Python  ? 

(15)  Joseph.  Antiq.  lib.  ii.  cap.  15.    Colon. 


»-.j$*«K*fcA  ■ 


-■--■■■•■■>■■•-.'■.•••-■-'-■ 


92 


CHAP.  III. 


View  from  the 
Ramparts. 


GRAND    CAIRO. 

Among  all  the  sights  which  this  extraordinary  country 
presents  to  the  eyes  of  an  European  traveller,  there  is 
nothing  more  novel  than  the  view  of  objects  beheld 
from  the  Citadel1.  A  very  considerable  district,  whether 
the  spectator  regard  the  East  or  the  South,  is  distinguished 
by  one  uniform  buff  colour.  Towards  the  North,  this  colour 
is  opposed  by  the  most  vivid  green  that  imagination  can 
conceive;  covering  all  the  Delta.  Upon  the  West  are  seen 
the  Pyramids,  reflecting  the  sun's  beams,  and  as  white  as 
snow.  In  order  that  the  reader  may  comprehend  the  exact 
situation  of  all  that  is  seen  from  hence,  this  Chapter  may 
conclude  by  a  detail  of  the  relative  position  of  the  dif- 
ferent abjects,  as  they  were  observed  by  a  mariner's  compass. 
This  node  of  description  was  frequently  used  by  the  cele- 
brated Wheler,  in  the  account  he  published  of  his  Travels 
in  Greece';  and  it  will  be  occasionally  adopted  in  the 
remaining  Chapters  of  this  Section. 

View 


(1)  After  the  author's  return  to  England,  he  often  endeavoured  to  direct  the 
attention  of  some  Panorama  painter  of  London  to  this  curious  spot ;  being  convinced 
that  a  mere  surprising  subject  for  that  kind  of  painting  could  not  be  found  in  any  other 
part  of  the  world.  Some  years  afterwards,  a  View  of  Cairo,  painted  by  Mr.  Barker,  after 
designs  by  Mr.  Salt,  was  exhibited  in  Leicester  Fields.  The  effect,  however,  was 
deficient.  The  objects  represented,  and  especially  the  Pyramids,  were  too  diminutive ; 
the  remarkable  contrast  of  colour,  and  the  peculiar  hues  displayed  by  the  original  scene, 
were  not  preserved ;  and  the  general  cast  of  the  scenery  had  too  much  the  air 
of  an  European  landscape.  As  a  picture,  considering  the  difficulty  encountered  by 
an  artist  in  the  representation  of  a  scene  he  had  never  beheld,  it  was  a  work  of 
great  merit ;  but  to  delineate  with  fidelity  that  which  is  like  nothing  else,  the  artist 
must  himself  visit  Egypt. 

(2)  See  Wheler's  Travels,  pp.  410,  442,  449,  &c.    Lond.  1682. 


GRAND    CAIRO. 


93 


View  from  the  Citadel  of  Cairo. 

East. 

A  very  unusual  and  striking  spectacle  ;  all  the  landscape 
being  of  a  buff,  or  bright  stone-colour ;  and  the  numerous 
buildings  in  view  having  the  hue  of  the  plains  on  which 
they  stand.  In  the  distance  is  an  arid  desert,  without  a 
single  mark  of  vegetation.  Nearer  to  the  eye  appear 
immense  heaps  of  sand,  the  Obelisk  of  Heliopolis,  and  the 
stately  mosques,  minarets,  and  sepulchres,  belonging  to  a 
Ccemetery  of  the  Caliphs  in  a  suburb  of  Cairo,  called 
Beladcensan ;  a  place  crowded  with  buildings  of  a  singular 
form3. 

South  East. 

Hills  and  broken  mounds,  disposed,  in  vast  masses,  with 
very  great  grandeur. 

South. 

A  grand  scene  of  desolation;  the  same  buff  colour 
prevailing  over  every  object.  In  the  fore-ground  are  the 
lofty  quarries  of  Mount  Mokatam,  with  ruined  castles, 
mouldering  domes,  and  the  remains  of  other  edifices,  above, 
below,  and  stretching  beneath  the  heights,  far  into  the 
plain.  More  distant,  appear  the  mountains  of  Upper  Egypt, 
flanking  the  eastern  bank  of  the  Nile,  and  a  wide  misty  view 
of  the  Said. 

South  West,  and  West. 

Immediately  beneath  the  eye  is  seen  the  Aqueduct, 
supported  by  arches,  and  extending  two   miles  in  length, 

from 


CHAP.  III. 


(3)  See  Plate  24.  in  the  large  Paris  Edition  of  Denon's  Travels. 


94  GRAND    CAIRO. 

chap.  in.  from  the  Nile  to  the  Citadel ;  together  with  mosques, 
minarets,  and  immense  heaps  of  sand.  But  the  grand  object, 
viewed  in  this  direction,  is  the  Nile  itself.  At  this  time, 
having  attained  its  greatest  elevation,  extending  over  a 
wide  surface,  and  flowing  with  great  rapidity,  it  appeared 
covered  with  barges  belonging  to  the  army,  and  the  va- 
rious vessels  of  the  country,  spreading  their  enormous  sails 
on  every  part  of  it.  The  Ruins  of  Old  Cairo,  the  Island  and 
groves  of  Rhouda,  enrich  this  fine  prospect.  Beyond  the 
river  appears  the  town  of  Djiza,  amidst  the  most  beautiful 
groves  of  sycamore,  fig,  and  palm  trees ;  still  more  remote, 
the  Pyramids  of  Djiza  and  Saccara ;  and,  beyond  these,  the 
great  Libyan  Desert,  extending  to  the  utmost  verge  of  the 
visible  horizon  ;   a  vast  ocean  of  sand. 

North  West,  and  North. 

The  green  plains  of  the  Delta  occupy  all  the  distant 
perspective  in  this  direction,  like  so  many  islands,  covered 
with  groves  and  gardens,  and  adorned  with  white  edifices  ; 
among  these  the  djerms,  the  canjas,  and  other  beautiful 
boats  of  the  Nile,  are  seen  sailing. 

North  East. 

The  whole  City  of  Cairo,  extending  from  the  North 
towards  the  North  East,  and  surrounded,  in  the  latter 
direction,  by  heaps  of  sand.  Immediately  beneath  the 
spectator  is  seen  a  grand  and  gloomy  structure,  called  The 
Mosque  of  Sultan  Hassan,  standing  close  to  one  of  two  lakes, 
which  appear  among  the  crowded  buildings  of  the  city. 

Such 


GRAND    CAIRO. 

Such  is  the  surprising  and  highly  diversified  view  from 
the  Citadel  of  Grand  Cairo.  It  will  not  be  too  much  to 
affirm  of  this  extraordinary  prospect,  that  a  scene  more 
powerfully  affecting  the  mind,  by  the  singularity  of  its 
association,  is  not  elsewhere  contained  within  any  scope  of 
human  observation; — a  profusion  of  Nature,  amidst  her  most 
awful  privation ;  a  disciplined  army,  encamped  amidst 
lawless  banditti ;  British  pavilions,  and  Bedouin  tents ; 
luxurious  gardens,  and  barren  deserts ;  the  pyramid  and 
the  mosque ;  the  obelisk  and  the  minaret ;  the  sublimest 
monuments  of  human  industry,  amidst  mouldering  reliques 
of  Saracenic  power. 


95 


CHAP.  III. 


CHAP. 


'  A&VtM&jMfifey*      ■■■■■■ 

SflS3BiJB»S5S5B'»*53e* 


• 


CHAP.   IV. 


HELIOPOLIS,  AND  THE  PYRAMIDS  OF  DJIZA. 

Passage  along  the  Canal — Visit  to  Heliopolis — Matarea — Pillar  of 
On — Style  of  the  Hieroglyphics — Intelligence  concerning  them — their 
Archetypes— -Crux  ar.sata — its  meaning  explained — Of  the  Hieralpha 
and  the  Testudo — Other  Symbols — Kircher — History  of  the  Obelisk 
— Minerals  of  the  Arabian  Desert  — Doubtful  Origin  of  Egyptian 
Jasper — Petrifactions — Dates  and  Corn — Almehs — Of  the  Alle- 
luia, and  cry  of  lamentation — Voyage  to  the  Pyramids — Appearance 
presented  by  the  principal  Pyramid — Objects  seen  from  the  summit — 
Nature  of  the  Limestone  used  in  its  construction — Extraneous  Fossil 
described  by  Strabo — Mortar — Labours  of  the  French  Army — Theft 
committed  by  an  Arab — Visit  to  the  interior  of  the  larger  Pyramid — 
Notions  entertained  of  its  violation — Its  passages — Observation  at  the 
Well — Examination  of  some  inferior  Channels — Chamber  of  the  Se- 
pulchre— The  Soros — its  demolition  attempted — The  Sphinx — its 
surface  found  to  be  painted — Discovery  of  an  antient  Inscription — 
Custom  of  painting  antient  Statues — Extract  from  Pauw. 

Our  house  in  Grand  Cairo  stood  in  a  principal  street,  near 
the  northern  bank  of  the  Canal;  so  that  our  djerm,  being 

always 


GRAND    CAIRO. 

always  at  hand,  served  us,  like  a  gondola  at  Venice,  instead 
of  a  carriage;  and  we  frequently  used  it  to  visit  the  different 
parts  of  the  city  accessible  by  canals.  Upon  the  twenty- 
first  of  August,  the  inundation  being  nearly  at  its  height,  we 
attempted  a  passage  by  water  to  the  utmost  extremity  of  the 
the  Amnis  Trajanus1,  in  the  direction  of  the  Birk  el  Hadjee, 
or  Pilgrim  s  Lake,  which  was  the  first  station  of  the  great 

Caravan, 

(l)  The  Khalig,  or  principal  Canal  of  Cairo,  believed  to  be  the  TPAIAN02 
ITOTAM02  of  Ptolemy,  (Fid.  Geog.  lib.  iv.  c.  5.)  and  called  also,  by  some  writers,  Fossa 
Traiana.  Savary,  upon  the  authority  of  Elmacin,  an  Arabic  historian,  attributes  this  work 
entirely  to  Omar,  and  says  it  was  Adrian,  rather  than  Trajan,  who  caused  a  canal  to  be 
dug  near  Cairo.  (Lettres  sur  VEgypte,  torn.  I.  p.  94.  Paris,  1785.)  There  is,  however, 
reason  to.  believe  that  Omar's  work  was  merely  a  restoration  of  the  antient  dyke.  It 
extends  eastward  of  the  Nile,  to  the  distance  of  twelve  miles,  and  is  terminated  by  the 
Pilgrim's  Lake.  Formerly  it  was  continued  to  Heroopolis,  upon  the  banks  of  the  Red 
Sea.  This  undertaking  was  begun  by  Sesostris,  carried  on  by  Darius,  and  finished  by 
Ptolemy  Philadelphus.  Its  last  restoration  took  place  in  the  year  644,  under  Caliph  Omar. 
(Strabon.  Geog.  lib.  xvii.  torn.  II.  p.  1140.  Edit.  Oxon.  See  also  the  Notes  in  the  Oxford 
edition  of  Strabo.)  The  history  of  this  great  undertaking,  in  its  origin,  is  thus  related 
by  Pliny,  who  says  the  design  was  abandoned  through  fear  of  inundating  Egypt  with 
the  waters  of  the  Red  Sea.  "  Daneon  portus,  ex  quo  navigabilem  alveum  perducere  in 
Nilum  (qua  parte  ad  Delta  dictum  decurrit  lxii  mill.  pass,  intervallo,  quod  inter 
jlumen  et  Rubrum  mare  interest)  primus  omnium  Sesostris  JEgypti  rex  cogitavit :  mox 
Darius  Persarum :  deinde  Ptolemceus  sequens :  qui  et  duxit  fossam  latitudine  pedum 
centum,  altitudine  triginta,  in  longitudinem  xxxvii  mill,  d  pass,  usque  adfontes  amaros: 
ultra  deterruit  inundationis  metus,  excelsior e  tribus  cubitis  Rubro  mari  comperto,  quam 
terra  JEgypti."  (Plin.  Hist.  Nat.  lib.xi.  cap.2g.  torn.  I.  p.  331.  L.  Bat.  1635.)  Ac- 
cording to  the  passage  which  Savary  has  translated  from  Elmacin,  Omar's  lieutenant, 
Amrou,  opened  the  communication  between  the  Red  Sea  and  the  Nile  by  means  of 
this  canal  ;  and  a  navigation,  bearing  the  produce  of  Egypt,  actually  commenced.  "Les 
bateaux  partant  de  Fostat,  porterent  dans  la  Mer  de  Colzoum  les  denrees  de  I'Egypte." 
(Voy.  Lett,  sur  VEgypte,  torn.  I.  p.  96.  Paris,  1785.)  «  Such,"  says  Savary,  »  is  the 
origin  of  that  famous  canal,  which  travellers,  copying  each  other,  have  called  Amnis 
Trajanus."  Be  it  remembered,  however,  that  in  this  number  are  Pococke  and  Shaw ; 
and  with  all  deference  to  Savary's  great  abilities,  and  to  his  predilection  for  Arabic 
histories,  it  may  be  presumed  that  neither  of  these  writers  was  unacquainted  with  the 
sources  whence  the  French  author  derived  his  information. 
VOL.  III.  O 


97 


CHAP.  IV. 


•- 


98 


HELIOPOLIS. 


CHAP.  IV. 


Visit  to  He- 
liopolis. 


Caravan,  in  its  journey  to  Mecca.  We  soon  found  our  pro- 
gress obstructed  by  the  arch  of  a  bridge,  which  was  so 
low,  that  our  djerm  could  not  pass  beneath  it,  and  we  were 
compelled  to  return. 

The  next  day,  having  obtained  horses  and  a  Janissary,  we 
set  out  again,  in  the  same  direction,  by  land,  desirous  of  seeing 
the  remains  of  Heliopolis,  one  of  the  most  antient  cities  of 
the  world  whereof  a  vestige  can  now  be  traced.  More  than 
eighteen  hundred  years  ago  its  ruins  attracted  the  regard  of 
the  most  enlightened  travellers  of  Greece  and  Rome.  Nearly 
thirty  years  before  the  Christian  osra  they  were  visited  by 
Strabo ;  and  the  interesting  description  which  he  has  given 
of  them,  proves  the  condition  of  that  once  famous  seat  of 
science  to  have  been  then  almost  as  desolate  as  at  the 
present  period.  If,  as  Shaw  has  ingeniously  attempted  to 
prove1,  the  accretion  of  soil,  from  the  annual  inundation  of 
the  Nile,  "has  been  in  a  proportion  of  somewhat  more  than  a 
foot  in  a  hundred  years,'  we  might  search  for  some  of  the 
antiquities  mentioned  by  Strabo,  at  the  depth  of  six  yards 
below  the  present  surface.  But  when  Pococke  visited  the 
place,  he  observed  the  fragments  of  Sphinxes  yet  remaining, 
in  the  antient  way  leading  to  the  eminence  on  which  the 
Temple  of  the  Sun  stood,  between  the  principal  entrance  to 
its  area,  and  the  southern  side  of  the  obelisk  standing  before 
it2.  The  Sphinxes  which  Pococke  saw,  were,  in  fact,  a  part  of 
the  identical  antiquities  that  were  noticed  by  Strabo  so  many 

centuries 


(1)  Travels,  Second  Edition,  p.  308.  Ch.  II.  sect.  3. 

(2)  Pococke's  Descript.  of  the  East,  vol.  I.  p.  23.    Lond,  1743. 


HELIOPOLIS. 


.99 


CHAP.  IV. 


centuries  before3 ;  whence  it  is  reasonable  to  conclude,  that 
very  little  labour  would  be  necessary  to  excavate  even  the 
pavement  of  the  temple4.  From  the  observations  made 
by  Pococke,  he  deduces  an  inference,  that  the  utmost 
height  to  which  the  soil  has  accumulated  does  not  exceed 
seven  feet  and  a  half.  At  the  time  of  our  visit  to 
Heliopolis,  all  the  area  of  the  antient  temple  was 
under  water ;  so  that  any  search  of  this  kind  was  thereby 
prevented. 

Our  road  to  this  place  from  Cairo  was  along  the 
southern  side  of  the  canal,  through  the  most  fertile  gardens, 
and  amidst  thick  groves  of  olive  and  orange  trees.  In  our 
way,  we  halted  at  Matarea,  a  village  which  is  generally  Matar^a. 
believed  to  occupy  a  part  of  the  site  of  the  antient  city6. 
Here  travellers  are  entertained  with  a  number  of  absurd 
superstitions,  similar  to  those  already  described  in  the 
account  of  the  Holy  Land.  The  principal  number  of 
Christians  who  visit  Matar6a  are  pilgrims,  attracted  by  the 
supposed  sanctity  of  the  spot,  as  connected  with  the  history 

of 


(3)  A<o  cs  tov  /.dJkouq  Travros  ifyjr  l(j>'  sKctTcpa  tov  irXdrovc  cfyiyytx  'ISpwrai 
XiOti'cti,  7n/Yt<c  ttKoaiv,  fj  ptKpu  irXttovc  dif  dXXtjXoip  ctlxovaai,  uad'  tva  fxlv  Ik  Se^iuv 
tlvou  otikov  (iTToiyov)  tuv  irfiyycov,  tva  V  i£  tvuvvfiuv.  "  Per  totam  vero  longitudinem 
deinceps  ex  utraque  lalitudinis  parte  sunt  positse  lapidese  sphinges,  vicenis  cubitis,  vel 
paulo  pluribus  inter  se  distantes :  ut  altera  sphingum  series  sit  a  dextra,  altera  a  sinistra." 
Strab.  Gcog.  lib.  mil  torn. 11.  p.  1142.  Edit.  Oxon. 

(4)  Ibid. 

(5)  Descript.  of  the  East,  vol.  I.  p.  23. 

(0)  This  place  is  said  by  Quaresmius  to  be  ten  geographical  miles  from  Cairo/ 
(Fid.  Elucid.  Terr.  Sanct.  lorn.  II.  p.  948.  Antv.  163Q)  meaning,  probably,  from  Old 
Cairo:   as  it  is  only  five  from  Grand  Cairo,  according  to  Bernardino. 


^B^HH  mmmok 


I H  H 1BBBB  BHI  VWWQHUwMCm 

-     *.  .  I i  ... .  •*    '-v -.  v  ..  *- .  j*     •<-_ —  -r*^Z2*&iae  >ix,±jytt*— !•*•**''*■"* 


100 


CHAP.  IV. 


HELIOPOLIS. 

of  our  Saviour.  The  celebrated  Fountain  of  the  Sun1, 
whence  the  city  itself  seems  to  have  been  originally  named, 
and  whose  delicious  water  attracted  the  earliest  settlers  to 
the  eastern  side  of  the  Nile,  was,  according  to  Monkish 
legends,  only  known  from  the  time  that  the  Holy  Family 
came  into  Egypt.    It  burst  forth,  they  say,  when  the  Virgin 

with 


(1)  Called  Ain  Schemps  by  the  Arabs,  which  agrees  with  the  name  of  Heliopol'iSj 
as  found  in  Abulfeda,  and  cited  by  the  learned  Kircher ;  CEdip.  &gypt.  lorn.  III. 
p.  331.  Rom.  1655.  "Ain  Schemps,  sive  Heliopolis,  quam  et  Oculum  seu  fontem 
Solis  appellant,  temporibus  nostris  desolata  est,  neque  sunt  in  ea  habitationes  ullae;  et 
dicitur,  quod  merit  civitas  Pharaonis :  sunt  in  ea  insignia  antiquitatis  monumenta, 
constructa  ex  lapidibus  et  saxis  maximis ;  inter  caetera  verb  columna  quadrata,  quae 
vocatur  Acus  Pharaonis  (id  est  Oleliscus),  longitudo  ejus  30  cubitorum,  estque  a  Cayro 
fere  media  mergala5  est  etiam  ibidem  villa  dicta  Matarea,  sita  ad  latus  sinistrum 
Orientalis  Nili." 

It  may  be  proper  to  notice  here  a  very  extraordinary  doubt  of  the  learned  Larcher 
concerning  this  city,   as  it  is  expressed  in   the  Table  Geographique,  published  in  the 
Appendix  to  his  Translation  of  Herodotus.    M.  Larcher  asserts,  in  opposition  to  every 
preceding  writer,  that  Heliopolis  was  situated  in  the  Delta,  and  that  Matarea  stands  on 
the  site  of  an  insignificant  town  of  the  same  name,  which  has  been  confounded  with 
the  more  renowned  city.     For  this  assertion  M.  Larcher  offers  no  proof  whatsoever ; 
but  refers  his  reader  to  a  separate  dissertation,  which  he  intends  to  publish  upon  this 
subject.    With  the  utmost  deference  to  that  profound  scholar,  it  may  be  surely  urged, 
that  what  Kircher,  Pococke,  and  Shaw,  considered  to  be  established,  will  not  be  hastily 
abandoned.     In  addition  to  this  it  may  be  asked,  do  not  the  remains  of  Sphinxes,  noticed 
by  Pococke,  confirm  the  description  given  by  Strabo  of  the  ruins  of  Heliopolis  ?   Do  not 
the  stupendous  Obelisks,  one  of  which  is  now  standing,  (two  others  were  taken  to  Rome, 
Vid.  Stralon.  Geog.    lib.  xvii.  p.  1142.   Ed.  Oxon.)    indicate,  beyond   a  possibility   of 
contradiction,  the  vestiges  of  no  inconsiderable  city  ?    The  observations  of  Strabo  con- 
cerning the  situation  of  the  'H\ioiro\iT>)'j  vo/toV,  and  the  tov  'HXiov  tto'Ak,  are  given  with 
remarkable  precision ;  and  when  these  are  compared  with  the  observations  made  by 
modern  travellers,  the  evidence  for  the  position  of  the  city  is  complete}  and  nothing  seems 
likely  to  supersede  it.     He  is  describing  the  country  along  the  Pelusiac   branch  of  the 
Nile;  and  coming  to  the  Canal  between  that  river  and  the  Red  Sea,  he  deduces  its 
origin  from  a  period  anterior  to  the  Trojan  War.     The  subject  leads  him  to  Arsinoe, 
near  which  city  this  canal  joined  the  Sinus  Heroopoliles.     Thence  returning  to  the 
Nile,  he  speaks  of  places  on  its  eastern  side,  which  are  near  to  the  southern  point  or 

vertex 


HELIOPOLIS. 

with  Joseph  and  the  infant  Jesus  reposed  themselves,  in  their 
flight  from  the  fury  of  Herod.  We  breakfasted  beneath  the 
shade  of  a  sycamore  fig-tree,  which  is  said  to  have  opened  and 
to  have  received  the  fugitives,  when  closely  pursued2 :  and  here 
we  listened  to  many  other  stories  of  the  same  nature,  the 
relation  of  which  even  old  Sandys  considered  to  be  "an 
abuse  of  time,  and  a  provocation  of  his  reader3."  However, 
by  imitating  the  conduct  of  the  pilgrims,  in  breaking  off 
and  bearing  away  with  us  a  few  scions  of  this  venerable 
tree,  (as  Sandys  says4,  "  all  to  be  hacktfor  the  wood  thereof, 

reputed 

vertex  of  the  Delta ;  mentioning  first  Bui  as  t  us,  then  Heliopolis,  Letopolis,  &c.  and 
their  respective  nomes ;  enumerating  these  as  they  occurred  from  the  North  towards 
the  South,  until  he  reaches  the  Nile  beyond  the  Delta  ;  and  speaks  of  Libya  as  being  on 
the  right,  and  Arabia  upon  the  left :  "  Wherefore,"  says  he,  "  the  Heliopolitan  district 
is  in  Arabia."  'H  /u.ev  ovv  'HXiottoXitk;  iv  nj  'Apafiiq.  krrlv.  After  this  observation, 
can  it  be  affirmed  that  Heliopolis  was  in  the  Delta  r  Another  very  remarkable  observation 
of  Strabo  may  be  cited,  with  reference  to  antiquities  observed  by  Maillet,  which  seem  to 
prove,  not  only  that  Matarea  denotes  the  site  of  Heliopolis,  but  also  that  Old  Cairo  stands 
within  the  Letopolitan  district :  it  is,  the  mention  he  makes  of  certain  Cave?,  or  pits,  for 
astronomical  observations,  lying  in  the  Letopolitan  prefecture,  beyond  Heliopolis.  Maillet 
discovered,  among  the  ruins  of  Old  Cairo,  several  pits  excavated  to  a  very'great  depth  in 
the  rock,  after  the  manner  of  Joseph's  Well.  (See  the  Note  to  p.  88.  of  this  volume.) 
These  correspond  with  the  notions  at  present  entertained  of  the  astronomical  wells  of 
the  Antients  ;  and  perhaps  they  are  the  Astronomical  Caves  alluded  to  by  Strabo. — 
For  other  particulars  concerning  Heliopolis,  see  Herodot.  Euterpe;  Diodorus  Siculus,  lib.  v. 
c.  57  ;   Ptolemceus;  Stephanus  ;  tsfc.  &c. 

(2)  See  an  Engraving  of  the  Well ;  the  edifice  erected  over  it;  and  of  this  tree; 
in  Bernardino's  Trattato  delle  Piante  et  lmmagini  de  sacri  Edifizi  di  Terra  Santa,  &c. 
Firenza,  1620.  The  representation  includes  the  famous  Balsam  Garden  of  Cleopatra, 
which  no  longer  exists.     Bernardino  was  in  Egypt  in  15p7. 

(3)  Sandys'  Travels,  p.  127.  Lond.  1637.  The  reader,  who  is  curious  to  be  amused 
with  a  complete  detail  of  all  the  Christian  superstitions  concerning  Cairo  and  its  neigh- 
bourhood, may  consult  Quaresmius,  Elucid.  Terr.  Sanct.  torn.  II.  Antv.  1630.  His 
account  of  the  Sanctities  of  Matarea  is  given  in  p.  Q48  of  that  volume. 

(4)  Ibid. 


101 


CHAP.  IV. 


%:a<^;^aiA*M^*S&*A*     !-Xj*a{*-#»x? 


_  .  ._     _ ,  ■    _.._.   ,    ..............  . 


CHAP.  IV. 


102  HELIOPOLIS. 

reputed  of  soveraigne  vertuc")  we  were  enabled  to  gratify 
our  botanical  friends  in  England  with  very  rare  specimens 
for  their  herbaries1.  The  well  of  Matarda  is  supposed  to 
be  pictured  in  the  famous  Mosaic  pavement  of  Praeneste2, 
where  a  representation  is  also  preserved  of  the  Temple  of 
the  Sun,  or  Bethshemesh  of  sacred  scripture3,  with  the  obelisks 
as  they  stood  before  the  vestibule  of  the  building, 
pniar  of  on.  We  then  went  to  visit  the  renowned  pillar  of  On%  or 

Obelisk  of  Heliopolis,  (the  only  great  work  of  antiquity 
now  remaining  in  all  the  Land  of  Goshen  ,)  standing  on  the 
spot  where  the  Hebrews  had  their  first  settlement6.  All  the 
surrounding  plain  was  at  this  time  inundated,  so  that  it 
seemed  as  rising  from  a  lake.  The  water  was,  however, 
shallow,  and  we  rode  upon  our  horses  towards  the  obelisk. 
The  ground  being  rather  elevated  towards  its  base,  the  author 
was  here  enabled  to  gain  a  precarious  footing  in  the  midst 
of  the  pool,  where  he  might  remain  and  leisurely  delineate 
the  hieroglyphics   which   are   rudely  sculptured   upon    this 

superb 

(1)  See  Chap.  II.  p.  31.  y 

(2)  Shaw's  Travels,  sect.  7.  ch.  2.  p.  424.  Lond.  1/57-  See  also  the  history  of 
this  pavement  in  Montfaucon's  Antiquities,  vol.  xiv. 

(3)  "  He  shall  break  also  the  Images  of  Beth-shemesh  (i.  e.  the  house,  or  City  of 
the  Sun)  that  is  in  the  land  of  Egypt."    Jer.  xliii.  13. 

(4)  "  And  Pharaoh  called  Joseph's  name  Zaphnath-paaneah  :  and  he  gave  him  to 
wife  Asenath  the  daughter  of  Poti-pherah  priest  of  On."  Gen.  xli.  45.  This  name  of 
the  city  is  rendered  'HXtoviroXeus  by  the  LXXII,  as  is  also  the  Hdlbrew  word  Beth- 
shemesh, mentioned  in  the  preceding  Note. 

(5)  See  Shaw's  Travels,  torn.  II.  chap.  5. 

(6)  %vyt-^uprjfrcv  avru  (i]v  fxerd  tuv  tikvuv  Iv  'YiXiovrrdXei.  "  Concessit  ei  cum 
liberis  suis  Heliopolin  habitare."  Josephi  Antiq.  Jud.  lib.  ii.  cap.  7.  torn.  I.  p.  Q5. 
Amst.  &c.  1726. 


St./,Jh,  r.miutli^ 


IELISK    of    HE  LI  OF  ©LIS 


fte&Usked  \W  16*161$,  hrT.<M,-U  .<■  JTtkwf  Sinm.L  Em 


IBB  ■sDwaiianiBK^SjS]  HBi 

■OC*.^r'*^r-^t^^ii^v3^> dfi^tS--.  H  >*./>^.  ■:< .■  i*---~>^.^?,'<-*.  r&*v&','*Xr'  ■iK<*TJi  J^jP2frCT''#' 


HELIOPOLIS. 


103 


superb  monument.  These  have  been  already  engraved,  both  chap.  iv 
by  Norden  and  by  Shaw;  but  in  neither  instance  with 
accuracy7.  From  the  coarseness  of  the  sculpture,  as  well  as 
the  history  of  the  city  to  which  this  obelisk  belonged,  there 
is  reason  to  believe  it  the  oldest  monument  of  the  kind  in 
Egypt'.  Its  height  is  between  sixty  and  seventy  feet9;  its 
breadth,  at  the  base,  six  feet :  the  whole  being  one  entire 
mass  of  reddish  granite,  the  Granites  durus  rubcscens  of 
Linnaeus.  Each  of  its  four  sides  exhibits  the  same  characters, 
and  in  the  same  order.  Those  which  face  the  south  have 
been  the  least  affected  by  the  decomposition  of  the  sub- 
stance in  which  they  are  hewn  ;  and  it  is  from  the  southern 
side  that  the  author's  design  is  taken.  He  has  endeavoured 
to  imitate  the  rude  style  of  the  antient  sculpture,  and  to 
present,  as  nearly  as  possible,  a  faithful  representation  of 
the  original.  After  the  remark  made  by  Strabo,  concerning 
the  hieroglyphics  of  Heliopolis,  that  they  much  resembled 
the  works  left  by  the  Etrurians,  and  by  the  antient  Gre- 
cians10, a  curiosity  to  see  these,   in  particular,   is   naturally 

excited. 

(7)  The  same  may  be  said  of  the  engraving  of  this  obelisk  in  Kircher's  CEdipus 
jEgyptiacus,  where  the  scarabceus  pilularius  is  introduced,  instead  of  the  rude  symbol 
which  appears  upon  the  original,  and  which  was  probably  intended  to'  represent  that 
insect. 

(8)  ' '  Antiquissima  fuit,  ut  origoetiam  ad  fabulas  referatur."  Cellar.  Geog.  torn.  II. 
Pars  3.  p.  42.     Lips.  1706. 

(9)  Shaw  makes  its  height  equal  only  to  sixty-four  feet ;  (Trav.  p.  366.  Lond.1757.) 
although  he  says  "  other  travellers  have  described  it  to  be  upwards  of  seventy."  Pococke 
ascertained  its  height,  by  the  quadrant,  and  found  it  to  be  sixty- seven  feet  and  a  half. 
Descript-.  of  the  East,  vol.1,  p.  23.     Lond.  1743..   .' 

(10)  'Aj'ay\i/<pac  0  i^ovntv  oi  rotvot  ovroi  /nsydXuv  siCiSKav,  ofxoiuv  roU  TvppijviK0~i<;, 
Kal  role  dpyaloie  fffocpa  tuv  vapd  role  ''E\\r/<7t  crffiiovpytifidruy,  "  Hi  parietes  ingen- 
tium  simulacrorum  sculpturas  habent,  Etruscis  et  antiquis  Graecise  operibus  per  similium." 
Strabon.  Geog.  lib.xvW.  p.  1142.    Ed.  Oxon.  I8O7. 


104 


CHAP.  IV. 


Style  of  the 
Hierogly- 
phics. 


HELIOPOLIS. 

excited.  They  are  remarkably  characterized  by  the  rudeness 
of  their  style  of  sculpture;  but  in  the  representations 
given  of  them  in  books  of  Travels,  the  simplicity  of  the 
original  work  has  been  sacrificed,  in  attempting  to  express, 
from  more  perfect  models,  the  intended  delineation  of 
the  antient  sculptor.  Thus,  in  the  view  of  this  obelisk, 
published  by  Shaw,  and  also  by  Norden,  many  of 
the  hieroglyphic  figures  are  fancifully  restored,  under  a 
notion  of  improving  their  appearance ;  and  some  are  alto- 
gether omitted.  In  the  first  oval  inclosure,  from  the  top  of 
the  obelisk,  there  is  a  rude  figure,  something  like  what  is 
vulgarly  called  a  bird-bolt,  with  a  circle  above  it.  Shaw 
believed  this  to  be  intended  for  the  scarabceus  pilularius, 
which  is  so  frequently  seen  upon  Egyptian  monuments  : 
accordingly,  he  completely  restored  the  figure  of  the  beetle, 
making  it  appear  as  a  more  perfect  representation  of  what 
he  had  seen  elsewhere '.  Borden  also  did  the  same0.  Possibly 
they  were  right  in  their  conjectures  as  to  the  figure  intended 
by  the  antient  artist ;  but  one  proof  of  the  great  antiquity  of 
this  monument  rests  upon  the  style  of  the  workmanship;  and 
to  misrepresent  this,  in  copying  the  hieroglyphics,  by  any 
aim  at  superior  delineation,  is  as  barbarous  as  to  exhibit  an 
antient  inscription  in  modern  characters3. 

The 


(1)  See  the  Plate  facing  p. 365,  in  Shaw's  Travels.    Lond.  175/. 

(2)  Norden's  Travels,  Plate  facing  p.  14.    Lond.  1757. 

(3)  If  the  reader  believe  Hasselquist,  he  was  able  to  distinguish  every  species 
of  bird  upon  this  pillar,  which  he  calls  the  handsomest  obelisk  in  Egypt.  "  I  could 
know,"  says  he,  "  a  strix  (owl)  which  stood  uppermost  on  the  top  of  the  obelisk." 
See  Trau.  to  the  East,  p.QQ.  Lond.  1766. — All  other  authors,  and  among  these 
Kircher,  have  made  the  strix  of  Hasselquist  a  vulture. 


HELIOPOLIS. 

The  reader's  curiosity  to  become  acquainted  with  the 
hidden  meaning  of  the  symbols  upon  this  obelisk  is  perhaps 
quite  equal  to  that  of  the  author;  and  if  all  that  Rircher 
has  written  for  its  illustration  be  adequate  to  this  effect, 
nothing  is  easier  than  to  transcribe  his  observations4. 
But  Isis  long  ago  declared,  that  no  mortal  had  ever 
removed  her  veil';  and  the  impenetrable  secret  seems 
not  likely  to  be  divulged.  One  solitary  fact  has  been 
vouchsafed  to  ages  of  restless  inquiry  upon  this  subject; 
namely,  that  the  hieroglyphic  characters  constituted  a  writ- 
ten language6,  the  signs  of  an  antient  alphabet,  expressed 
according  to  the  most  antient  mode  of  writing,  in  capital 
letters1 :  and  it  is  probable  that  the  more  compound  forms 
were  a  series  of  monograms,  like  the  inscriptions  upon  the 
precious  stones  worn  by  the  High  Priest  of  the  Hebrews, 
which  were  ordered  to  be  made  after  the  manner  of  "  the 
engravings  of  a  signet*,"  and  thus  to  contain  within  a  very 
small  compass,  "  as  stones  of  memorial" ',"  even  upon  "  two 
onyx-stones ,  the  names  of  the  children  of  Israel™.     Strabo's 

observation 


105 


CHAP.  IV. 


(4)  CEdipus  iEgyptiacus,  p.  330.  Romce,  1654. 

(5)  TON   EMON    IIEnAON    OYAEI2    TUl  0NHTOZ    AIIEKAAYYEN. 

Plutarch,  de  Iside  et  Osir.  cap.  g. 

(6)  See  the  words  of  the  Greek  Inscription  upon  the  Ptolemaic  tablet  found  near 
Rosetta. 

(7)  The  letters  of  the  most  antient  written  language  of  Egypt,  according  to  Dio- 
dorus,  were  derived  from  the  Ethiopians  5  and  represented  all  sorts  of  beasts,  the  parts  of 
the  human  body,  and  divers  instruments.  The  capital  letters  of  the  Armenian  alphabet 
(as  published  in  the  grammar  printed  by  the  Propaganda  Fidei)  are  represented  by 
animals :  and  it  is  observed  by  Pococke,  who  mentions  this  circumstance,  {Description 
of  the  East,  vol.  I.  p.  228.  London,  1743,)  that  "  the  names  of  some  antient  letters  are 
the  names  of  beasts." 

(8)  Exodusxxviii.il.        '  (9)  Ibid.  ver.  12.  (10)  Ibid.  ver.  9. 
VOL.   III.                                                 P    « 


***«»»«**  !*W>«i«  »**»»****»»?  4ft 


106  H  EL  10  POL  IS. 

t  chap,  iv.  ^  observation  upon  the  Heliopolitan  sculpture  is  here  of  impor- 
tance :  he  says,  it  resembled  the  workmanship  of  Etruscans  : 
and  by  the  similarity  already  noticed l,  between  the  letters 
of  the  Etruscan  alphabet  and  the  characters  observed  upon 
Phoenician  signets,  as  well  as  the  evident  agreement  of  the 
signs  upon  Phoenician  coins 2  with  the  Egyptian  hieroglyphics, 
it  may  be  inferred  that  the  mode  of  writing  used  by  the 
priests  of  Egypt  corresponded  with  that  which  Moses  caused 
to  be  engraven  upon  the  stones  for  the  ephod,  and  for  the 
breast-plate  of  judgment,  which  are  expressly  and  repeatedly 
described3  as  "  the  ivorks  of  an  engraver  in  stone,  like  the 
engravings  of  a  signet." 

But  with  reference  to  the  inscription  upon  the  obelisk  at 
Heliopolis,  and  to  the  numerous  examples  of  the  same  kind 
which  have  been  noticed  among  the  antiquities  of  Egypt, 
although  we  are  unable  to  explain  any  thing  of  their  original 
import,  there  is  one  mode  of  considering  them,  in  which  a 
careful  examination  of  the  signs  thus  represented  may  be 
attended   with  amusement,    if  not  with  instruction.     This 

Archetypes  of    consists,  first,  in  ascertaining  what  the  archetypes  were  of  the 

the   Hierogly- 
phics, several  figures  used  to  denote  letters :    these  are  sometimes 

clearly    exhibited,    but    often    confusedly    sketched,    as    if 

with  a  view  to  abbreviation;  and,  secondly,  in  using  these 

documents,  not  only  to  illustrate  the  manners  of  the  most 

antient 


(1)  See  Part  II.  Sect.  I.  Chap.  X.  of  these  Travels,  p.  327.    Broxlourne,  1812. 

(2)  Witness  the  appearance  of  the  Crux  ansatc  upon  a  Phoenician  medal  found  in 
Cjprus.     See  Vignette  to  Chap.  XL  Part  II.  Sect.  I.  of  these  Travels. 

(3)  Exodus,  xxviii.  11,  21. 


HELIOPOLIS. 

antient  nations,  but  also  to  prove  the  existence  of  many  antient 
customs  from  their  existing  reliques.  In  this  point  of  view, 
the  discoveries  made  by  Denon4  among  the  hieroglyphics  of 
Upper  Egypt  are  valuable.  The  light  thrown  upon  the 
history  of  Architecture,  of  the  Arts,  and  certain  even  of 
the  Sciences,  by  the  pictured  representation  of  things  as 
they  existed  in  the  earliest  periods,  must  gratify  a  laudable 
curiosity,  and  may  answer  the  more  important  purpose  of 
conveying  historical  information.  The  hieroglyphics  of 
Heliopolis  will  perhaps  afford  less  illustration  of  this  nature 
than  any  other  characters  of  the  same  kind;  because  the 
style  of  sculpture  is  here  so  rude,  that  many  of  the  arche- 
types, whence  the  types  of  the  inscription  were  derived, 
cannot  now  be  ascertained ;  but,  on  account  of  their  great 
antiquity,  the  few  that  may  be  discerned  are  worth  notice. 
In  the  very  summit  of  the  obelisk,  beneath  the  figure  of  a  vul- 
ture, may  be  observed  the  Crux  ansata5.     The  original  of  this 

curious 


107 


CHAP.  IV. 


Crux  ansata. 


(4)  See  Denon's  account  of  the  hieroglyphics  in  the  Sepulchres  of  the  antient  Kings  of 
Thebes.  Travels  in  Upper -and,  Lower  Egypt,  vol.11,  p.  173.  London,  1803. — Also  of 
the  hieroglyphics  of  "  Tentyra,"  where  he  discovered  the  first  models  of  the  style  of 
decoration  improperly  termed  Arabesque,  such  as  were  executed  in  painting  at  the  Baths 
of  Titus,  and  copied  by  Raphael.     See  vol.  I.  p.  211. 

(5)  "  Sed  non  erat  ullum  templum,  in  quo  non  figura  crucis  ansatce,  ut  earn  eruditi 
vocant,  saepius  visenda  occurreret,  hodieque  in  ruderibus  ac  minis  etiamnum  oc- 
currat.  Ejus  haec  est  species  -£•  -  -  -  -  Crucem  vero  istam  ansatam,  quae  in  omnibus 
iEgyptiorum  templis  saepius  ficta  et  picta  extabat,  quam  signa  Deorum  ./Egyptiorum 
manu  tenere  solent,  quae  partem  facit  ornatus  sacerdotalis,  nihil  aliud  esse  quam 
phallum,"  &c.  (Fide  Jablonski  Panth.  jEgypt.  I.  282.)  Jamblichus  thinks  the 
Crux  ansata  was  the  name  of  the  Divine  Being.  Sozomen,  and  other  Christian  writers, 
(Vide  Sozomen.  Eccl.  Hist,  lib.y'n.  c.  15.  Ruffin.  Eccl.  Hist.  lib.  ii.  c.  2Q.)  conceive  the 
whole  figure,  or  at  least  the  cross,  to  be  expressive  of  the  "  life  to  come  ,•"  deriving  this 

opinion 


108 


CHAP.  IV. 


HELIOPOLIS. 

curious  type  was  the  sort  of  hey  in  use  among  the  Antients, 
which  generally  appears  fastened  to  a  ring.  Sometimes  it 
is  seen  annexed  to  a  rosary  of  beads,  as  in  the  remarkable 
instance  where  the  same  symbol  appears  upon  a  Phoenician 
medal1  found  at  Citium  in  the  Isle  of  Cyprus,  of  which  an 
engraving  was  given  in  the  preceding  Section*.  This  kind 
of  key  is  not  entirely  banished  from  modern  use;  and  such 
instruments  have  been  discovered  in  the  ruins  of  antient 
cities.  They  are  often  seen  in  the  hands  of  Egyptian 
statues.  Two  were  represented,  as  pendent  from  hooks,  upon 
a  hieroglyphical  tablet  found  near  the  Pyramids  by  Paul 
Lucas8.  The  archetype  of  this  symbol  may  possibly  there- 
fore have  been  a  hey.     It  is  not  the  less  likely  to  answer  to 

Jablonski's 


opinion  from  the  explanation  given  of  it  by  those  of  the  Heathens  who  understood  the 
hieroglyphics,  and  were  converted  to  Christianity.  Sometimes  it  is  represented  by  a 
cross  fastened  to  a  circle,  as  above ;  in  other  instances,  with  the  letter  f  only,  fixed  in 
this  manner  -^  to  a  circle.  By  the  circle,  says  Kircher  (Prod.  Copt.  p.  l6g),  is  to  be 
understood  the  Creator  and  Preserver  of  the  world ;  as  the  wisdom  derived  from  him, 
which  directs  and  governs  it,  is  signified  by  the  -f- ,  t>  tne  monogram,  as  he  further 
conjectures,  of  Mercury,  Tkoth,  Taaut,  or  <|>T  Ptha.  "  It  is  certainly  very  extra- 
ordinary," (says  Shaw,  who  has  collected  almost  every  information  upon  this  subject,) 
"  and  worthy  of  our  notice,  that  this  crux  ansata  should  be  so  often  in  their  symbolical 
writings ;  either  alone,  or  held  in  the  hands,  or  suspended  over  the  necks,  of  their  deities. 
Beetles,  and  such  other  sacred  animals  and  symbols,  as  were  bored  through,  and 
intended  for,  amulets,  had  this  figure  frequently  impressed  upon  them."  (See  Shaw's 
Trav.  p.  360.  Lond.  175/.)  The  same  author  considers  it  to  be  the  same  with  the 
ineffable  image  of  Eternity,  noticed  by  Suidas.     Vide  Euseb.  Prcef.  Evan.  p.  6g. 

(1)  It  seems  to  have  as  much  reference  to  Phoenicia,  as  to  Egypt.     Upon  a  medal 
of  Sidon  the  cross  appears  carried  by  Minerva  in  a  boat. 

(2)  See  Part  II.  Sect.  I.  p.  328.  Vignette  to  Chap.  XI. 

(3)  See  the  Engraving  of  this  in  the  Second  Volume  of  his  Travels,  as  published  at 
Amsterdam  in  1744,  torn.  II.  p.  130. 


HELIOPOLIS. 


109 


Meaning1  of 
the  Crux  an- 
sata. 


Jablonski's  explanation  of  it  on  this  account  \  We  have  chap,  iv 
historical  information  relative  to  the  meaning  of  the 
Crux  ansata.  Indeed,  it  may  be  considered  as  the  only 
hieroglyphical  type  concerning  whose  import  we  have 
any  certain  intelligence.  The  singular  appearance  of 
a  Cross  so  frequently  recurring  among  the  hieroglyphics 
of  Egypt,  had  excited  the  curiosity  of  the  Christians  in  a 
very  early  period  of  ecclesiastical  history3;  and  as  some  of 
the  priests6,  who  were  acquainted  with  the  meaning  of 
the  hieroglyphics,  became  converted  to  Christianity,  the 
secret  transpired.  "  The  converted  Heathens,"  says  Socrates 
Scholasticus7,  "explained  the  symbol;  and  declared  that 
it   signified    ■  life   to    come.'  Ruffinus    mentions    the 

same  fact8.      Kircher's    ingenuity   had  guided  him  to    an 
explanation  of  the  Crux  ansata,  as  a  monogram,  which  does 

not 


(4)  See  Note  5,  p.  107,  containing  an  extract  from  Jablonski,  upon  the  meanino- 
of  the  Crux  ansata.  The  women  of  Naples  wear  it  as  a  pendant  for  the  ear ;  annexing 
to  this  ornament  the  signification  which  Jablonski  has  given  of  the  Crux  ansata ;  but  the 
use  of  the  metaphorical  verb  Ckiavare,  in  their  language,  proves  that  the  same  interpre- 
tation is  applicable  to  a  key.  An  observation  occurs  in  Athenaeus  where  the  letter  T  is 
deemed  obscene. 

(5)  The  Serapeum  at  Alexandria  was  destroyed  about  the  year  3 89.  It  was  at  the 
destruction  of  this  building  that  the  Christians  first  became  acquainted  with  the  meaning 
of  the  Cross  among  the  Egyptian  hieroglyphics. 

(6)  No  liberty  is  here  taken,  either  with  the  text  of  Ruffinus  or  of  Socrates, 
in  saying  the  priests  ;  because  no  others  possessed  a  knowledge  of  the  sacred  writing. 

(7)  Tovtgiv  £e  dn^iafinrovf-ievuv,  Tivh;  rwv  ILWtjvuv  toj  H.pt(rriavca/j.o}  irpoatXdovres, 
rd  lrpoy\v(j)iKa  re  ypdfi/Liara  liriardpitvoi,  c;iep/unvtvoi>r£<;  tov  OTUvpotic^i)  vapatcriipa, 
HXtyov  arjixaivtiv  ZilHN  EflEPXOMENHN.  "Dum  haec  inter  illos  agitaturcontro- 
versia,  quidam  ex  Gentilium  errore  ad  Christi  fidem  conversi,  qui  hujusmodi  literarum 
notitiam  habebant,  notam  hanc  crucis  forma  depictam  interpretantes,  venturam  vitam 
significare  docuerunt."  Socrat.  Scholast.  Histor.  Ecclesiast.  lib.  v.  c.  17.  p.  276.  Paris, 
1668. — The  reader  will  do  well  to  consult  the  whole  chapter,  which  contains 
very  curious  information. 

(8)  Ruffin.  Hist.  Eccl.  lib.  ii.  c.  29.     See  also  Heliod.  iEthiop.  lib.  iii.  p.  148. 


HELIOPOLIS. 

not  militate  against  the  signification  thus  obtained.  He 
says,  it  consisted  of  the  letters  <I>T,  denoting  Ptha,  a  name 
of  Mercury ' ;  and  the  name  of  this  deity,  as  a  conductor  of 
the  souls  of  the  dead,  might  well  be  used  with  reference  to  a 
state  of  existence  after  death.  But  as  every  Egyptian  monogram 
had  its  archetype  in  some  animal,  or  instrument  of  common 
use,  and  the  original  of  the  Crux  ansata  seems  to  have 
been  a  key,  we  may  perhaps,  by  attending  to  this  curious 
circumstance,  arrive  at  the  origin  of  those  allegorical  allusions 
to  a  key,  which,  with  reference  to  a  future  state  of  existence, 
are  introduced  into  the  Holy  Scriptures.  Such  an  allusion 
is  made  in  the  prophecies  of  Isaiah,  concerning  the  kingdom 
of  Christ2.     Our  Saviour  says  unto  Peter3,  "  I  will   give 

UNTO  THEE  THE  KEYS  OF  THE  KINGDOM  OF  HEAVEN  :"    and  the 

author  of  the  book  of  Revelations,  as  if  the  sacred  symbols 
of  antient  Egypt  had  suggested  the  image  to  his  mind, 
describes  the  Angel  of  the  Resurrection*  as  having  in  his 
hand  a  key.  Also,  in  the  sublime  prophecy  concerning  the 
second  advent  of  the  Messiah,  a  similar  allusion  may  be 
noticed5:    "I  am   he  that  liveth  and  was  dead;    and, 

BEHOLD,  I  AM  ALIVE  FOR  EVERMORE,  AMEN  ;  AND  HAVE  THE 
KEYS  OF  HELL  AND  OF  DEATH." 

Among  the  other  signs  used  to  express  words  upon  this 
monument,  there  is  one,  respecting  which  our  information  is 

not 


(1)  Kircher.  Prod.  Copt.  p.  169.     See  also  a  former  Note  upon  the  Crux  ansata. 

(2)  "  The  key  of  the  house  of  David  will  I  lay  upon  his  shoulder."  Isaiah  xxii.  22. 

(3)  Matthew  xvi.  19. 

(4)  "  And  I  saw  an  angel  come  down  from  heaven,  having  the  key  of  the  bottom- 
less pit,  and  a  great  chain  in  his  hand."     Revel,  xx.  1. 

(5)  Revel,  i.  18. 


HELIOPOLIS. 


Ill 


CHAP    IV. 


not  attended  with  the  same  certainty  as  in  the  preceding  in- 
stance, although  its  meaning  be  not  entirely  unknown.  This 
is  the  curious  monogram,  called  Hieralpha  by  Kircher6,  com-  Hieraipha. 
posed  of  the  Greek  letters  A  and  A,  which  he  explains,  from 
Plutarch,  to  signify  Agatho  Daemon,  and  to  have  had  for  its 
archetype  an  Ibis,  in  a  particular  attitude7.  It  may  be 
observed  near  the  centre  of  the  obelisk,  immediately  above 
another  figure  of  the  Crux  ansata,  similar  to  that  which 
has  been  already  described.  Pauw  ridicules  Kircher's  no- 
tion ;  admitting,  at  the  same  time,  a  resemblance  between 
the  first  letter  of  the  Greek  alphabet  and  the  Theban 
plough 8.  Now  the  plough  was,  in  fact,  an  archetype  of  the 
symbol  which  Kircher  calls  Hieralpha :  and  although  Pauw 
has  proved  this  point,  perhaps  beyond  dispute,  yet  some- 
thing may  still  be  added  in  its  confirmation.  The  sort 
of   hand-plough,    represented    as    a   sceptre   in   the    hands 

of 


(6)  "  Hie  character  idem  significat,  quod  'AyaflcY  Aai/nuv,  id  est,  Bonus  Genius  ; 
et  componitur  ex  initialibus  Uteris  A  et  A.  Si  enim  producitur  A  litera,  fiat  A,  quod  in 
se  monogrammatice  continet  A  et  A ;  invenitur  autem  haec  litera  hieroglyphica  in  om- 
nibus fere  ./Egyptiacis  inscriptionibus,  &c.  quam  et  Hieralpham  imposterum  vocabi- 
mus."  {Kircher.  CEdip.  j&gypt.  Theatrum  Hieroglyphicum,  torn.  III.  p.  50.  Rom.  1654.) 
Also  (in  Prod.  Copt.  p.  231.)  the  same  author  says,  "  Hoc  p.ovoypapaiov  A,  ex 
A  et  A  compositum,  in  nullo  non  obelisco  frequentissimum,  iEgyptiarum  vocum 
CDlV^-OOC  A.CJt*.0n,  quibus  bonumgeniumDefttf?  Nili  seusEgypti  signant,  index  ; 
cum  praeter  dictarum  vocum  capitales  literas,  ejus  quoque  JEgypti  portionis  figuram 
quam  A  passim  vocant,  clare  dictum  fj.ovoypaf.ip.ov  exprimat." 

(7)  'I/3tc  re  iroiei  ttJ  tuv  irodav  diroaTcifrci  irpdi;  dWtjXovc,  KOI  trpog  to  piyKOc  iao- 
irXevpov  rpiyuivov.  "Ibis  pedum  divarication e  eorum  inter  se,  et  cum  rostro  comparatione, 
triangulum  refert  cequilaterum."  Plutarch.  Sympos.  5.  Also  'E^/if/c  Xiyirac  Qtuv  iv 
A.tyvTTT<j>  ypctpfxara  irpioroc  evpeiv,  hid  Kal  to  tuv  ypaf.ifiq.TMV  AiyviTTioi  irpuTov"lj3iv 
ypcx(povffi,  Jc  'Ep/j.rj  (Wyadotaip.ovi)  7rpo<T)')Kov(rav.  "  Mercurius  primus  Deorum  in 
iEgypto  traditur  invenisse  literas,  atque  adeo  Ibin  iEgyptii  primam  literam  faciunt  Mer- 
cuno,  videlicet  Agathodaemoni,  convenientem."  Id.  in  lib.  vs..  Sympos.  2,3,  See  also 
Kircher  CEdip.  sEgypt.  Theat.  Hieroglyph,  p.  43.  Rom.  1654. 

(8)  Philosoph.  Diss.  &c.  vol.11,  p.  121.  Lond.  1795. 


H  «ffi  l^gtl   H 


■■HHM 


CHAP.  IV. 


112  HELIOPOLIS. 

of  the  priests  and  kings  of  Egypt l,  is  still  used  by  many  of 
the  Celtic  tribes.  The  author  has  also  seen  it  in  Lapland. 
It  has  this  form,  V  which  precisely  corresponds  (although 
in  an  inverted  position)  with  the  sort  of  sceptre  men- 
tioned by  Diodorus,  and  denominated  Hier alpha  by  Kircher. 
There  are  also  a  few  symbols  rendered  interesting  in 
the  representations  they  offer  of  instruments  still  used 
by  modern  nations,  without  any  deviation  from  their 
Tettudo.  most  antient  form:  such,  for  example,  as  the  Testudo, 
or  Cithara,  of  the  Antients,  a  two-stringed  lyre,  con- 
structed of  the  shell  of  a  land- tortoise,  common  to  all 
the  shores  of  the  Mediterranean.  It  corresponds  with  the 
Balalaika  of  the  Russians,  and  is  in  use  among  theCalmucks2. 
This  instrument  is  believed  to  be  the  <K)PMirs  of  Homer*. 
It  may  be  observed  about  half  way  up  the  face  of  the 
obelisk,  upon  the  left  hand,  placed  by  the  side  of  an  axe  or 
hatchet.  The  sort  of  staff,  capped  with  the  representation 
of  an  animal's  head,  which  is  seen  in  the  hands  of  Egyptian 
deities  among  their  hieroglyphic  figures,  and  frequently 
delineated  upon  Greek  vases,  as  a  badge  of  distinction  worn 
by  Grecian  Hierarchs,  is  yet  in  use  among  the  Patriarchs 

and 


(1)  Philosoph.Diss.&c.  ibid.     Fid.  Diod.  Sic.  lib.'iv.      Tibullus,  lib.  i. 

"  Primus  aratra  manu  solerti  fecit  Osiris, 
Et  teneram  ferro  solicitavit  humura." 

(2)  See  Part  I.  of  these  Travels,  Chap.  XII.  p.  244.    Second  Edit. 

(3)  The  author  is  indebted  for  this  observation  to  a  letter  he  received  from  R.  P.  Knight, 
Esq.  soon  after  the  publication  of  the  First  Part  of  these  Travels.  Alluding  to  the  account 
given  in  p.  244  (Second  Edition),  of  a  two-stringed  lyre  represented  in  the  Calmuck 
paintings,  Mr.  Knight  said  that  he  considered  this  instrument  to  be  the  same  which 
Homer  mentions,  uuder  the  name  of  tyopfxiyt, : 

T^olacv  B'  cv  fiiatroiat  ird'os  (\>6pp,tyyi  \iytin 

'ljuepoev  Kiddpifc. Iliad.  2.  569. 


HELIOPOLIS. 


113 


and  Bishops  of  the  Greek  Church  ;  and  this  may  be 
observed  in  two  instances  upon  the  Heliopolitan  pillar. 
For  the  rest,  the  reader,  if  he  have  patience  for  the  inquiry, 
may  be  referred  to  Kircher3;  who  has  written  a  particular 
dissertation  upon  this  obelisk,  and,  in  his  endeavour  to 
explain  its  symbols  in  detail,  has  brought  together  all  that 
his  vast  erudition  enabled  him  to  communicate ;  although 
it  must  be  evident,  since  the  discovery  of  a  Greek  translation 
of  hieroglyphics  upon  the  Rosetta  Stone,  that  the  interpre- 
tation proposed  by  him,  of  these  characters,  cannot  accord 
with  their  real  signification. 

With  the  description  of  this  obelisk  the  author  is  com- 
pelled to  terminate  his  very  limited  observations  concerning 
Heliopolis  :  for  such  is  the  solitary  remnant  of  a  city  and 
University  where  Herodotus  was  instructed  in  the  wisdom  of 
the  Egyptians  ;  and  where,  eighteen  hundred  years  ago,  the 
schools'1  of  Plato,  and  of  Eudoxus,  were  shewn  to  Roman  tra- 
vellers, as,  in  some  future  age,  the  places  where  a  Locke  and 

a  Newton 


CHAP.  IV. 


(3)  Vid.  Syntagma  vm.    Theat.  Hieroglyph.   CEdipi  y£gyptiaci,  torn.  III.  p.  330. 

Rom.  1654.     Kircher's  account  of  this  obelisk  is  divided  into  four  distinct  chapters. 

1.  "  De  origine  Obelisci  Heliopolitani."  2.  "De  erectione  et  mensurd  Obelisci."  3.  "  Ar- 
gumentum  hujus  Obelisci."  4.  "  Interpreiatio  Obelisci."  Of  these,  the  reader  will  in  all 
probability  rest  satisfied  with  the  two  first :  these,  being  historical,  are  valuable.  An  ex- 
amination of  Kircher's  work  will  offer  a  striking  example  of  the  patient  research  and 
amazing  erudition  which  characterized  the  learned  labours  of  the  Jesuits ;  but  when  he 
proceeds  to  fhe  interpretation  of  the  hieroglyphics  in  detail,  his  reveries  may  be  com- 
pared to  the  feverish  dreams  of  a  scholar,  who,  from  intense  application  to  his  studies, 
is  visited,  as  by  the  night-mare,  with  a  continual  recurrence  of  postulates  unattended  by 
a  single  conclusion. 

(4)  AIATPIBAI  dicuntur  Philosophorum  congressus  ac  disputationes,  quae  Plut. 
Ziarpiftal  irepl  Xoyovr,.  Item  locus,  in  quo  ciarpifiovai  irepl  rl,  AlATPIBH  dicitur. 
Sic  leg.  Strab.  'E<CEt  ofiv  icEiKvvvro  01  tc  tg>v  itpiuv  oikoi,  kcu  Ti\aro>vog  xai  \Lvd6£,ov 
<)ictTpifiai.  "  Ostendebantur  ergo  ibi  sacerdotum  aedes,  ac  domicilia  in  quibus  Eu- 
doxus et  Plato  egcrant."     Strabon.  Geog.  lib.  xvii.  torn.  II.  p.  1143.    Ed.  Oxon. 

VOL.  III.  Q 


114 


EGYPT. 


CHAP.  IV. 


History  of 
the  Obelisk. 


a  Newton  held  their  disputations  may  be  pointed  out  among 
the  mouldering  edifices  of  Oxford  and  of  Cambridge.  That 
other  monuments,  equally  entitled  to  consideration,  may 
possibly  exist  around  this  pillar,  concealed  only  by  a  thin 
covering  of  soil,  can  hardly  be  doubted ;  and  these,  succeeding 
travellers  may  bring  to  light.  The  antiquities  observed  by 
Pococke  are  probably  among  the  number.  Yet,  if  this  alone 
continue  to  mark*the  situation  of  Heliopolis,  the  evidence  it 
affords,  when  added  to  other  proofs,  will  be  sufficient  to 
identify  the  locality  of  the  city.  Indeed,  when  it  is  considered 
that  Heliopolis  was  altogether  a  deserted  city  so  long  ago  as 
the  time  of  Strabo ',  and  that  the  Romans  carried  from  Egypt 
so  many  of  its  antient  monuments,  it  is  surprising  that  this 
obelisk,  stupendous  as  it  is,  remains  in  its  original  position. 
Among  several  trophies  of  this  description,  which  were 
removed  to  Italy,  Strabo  mentions  two  obelisks  that  were 
carried  to  Rome  from  the  ruins  of  Heliopolis2.  According 
to  Pliny,  the  first  monuments  of  this  kind  that  were  raised 
in  Egypt  were  placed  within  this  city5;  and  the  elevation 
assigned  by  him  to  each  of  the  four  obelisks  erected  here 
by  Sochis,  so  nearly  corresponds  with  the  measure  of  the 
one  which    now  remains,  that,   making  allowance    for   its 

pedestal, 


(1)  Ylavtprjiuor  rj  irokt<; — "  Omnino  urbs  deserta  est."  Strah.  Geog.  lib.  xvii.  torn.  II. 
p.  1142.    Ed.  Oxon.  ISO?. 

(2)  T£lv  ?vo  teal  els  'Pufirfv  iKOfMiffdtjcrav,  01  //>/  KEKatcu/uitvot  teKsuc.  "  Quorum  duo 
Romam  delati   sunt,   non  omnino  corrupti."    Ibid. 

(3)  "  Primus  omnium  id  instituit  Mitres,  qui  in  Solis  urbe  regnabat,  somnio  jussus  : 
et  hoc  ipsum  inscription  est  in  eo :  etenim  sculpturae  illae  effigiesque,  quas  videmus, 
EgyptijE  sunt  literje.  Postea  et  alii  regum  in  supra  dicta  urbe."  Plinii  Hist. 
Nat.  lib.  xxxvi.  c.  8.  torn.  III.  p.  481.    L.Bat.  1635. 


E  O  Y  P  T. 


115 


pedestal,  its  height  would  be  the  same4.  On  this  account,  chap.  iv. 
Pococke",  and  Shaw6,  consider  it  to  be  one  of  the  four 
thus  mentioned  by  Pliny.  Diodorus  relates7,  that  two 
other  obelisks  were  erected  at  Heliopolis  by  Sesostris  ;  but 
each  of  these  was  one  hundred  and  twenty  cubits  in  height, 
ar.d  eight  in  breadth ;  an  elevation,  therefore,  much  too 
ccnsiderable  to  correspond  with  the  present  appearance  of 
this  pillar. 

After    leaving   this    place,    the    author   was    so    much 
exhausted   by    fatigue,    that   he   returned    to    Cairo,  across 
the  sandy  plain  of  the  desert  which  lies  east  of  the  city 
and    extends    all    the     way    from    the    Nile    to    the    Red 
Sea.      Mr.  Cripps,   accompanied  by  Mr.  Hammer,   and    by 
Mr.  Hamilton,  then  secretary  of  our  Ambassador  at  Con- 
stantinople, continued  their  journey  as  far  as  the  Pilgrim  s 
Lake,  whence  the  canal  is  supposed  to  have  extended  to  the 
Red  Sea;  and  returned  afterwards  by  the  route  which  the 
author  had  taken.    They  found,  at  the  lake,  the  remains  of  a 
very  large  Caravanserai,  and  discerned  the  traces  of  a  canal, 
bearing   thence    towards    the   south-east,    in    the    direction 
of  Suez.     But  the  most  curious  objects  noticed  in  this  part 
of  the  day's  journey  were  presented   to    our   whole  party 
where  we  least   expected   to    find   any  thing  remarkable; 

namely, 

(4)  That  is  to  say,  48  cubits ;  and  admitting  the  Roman  cubit  to  equal  ]  8  inches, 
the  whole  height  of  the  obelisk  would  be  72  feet.  Pococke  found  the  height  of  that 
part  of  the  obelisk  which  is  above  the  surface  of  the  soil  to  equal  6'7  feet,  measuring  it 
by  a  quadrant.  Shaw  took  its  elevation  "  by  the  proportion  of  shadows,"  and  made  it 
only  sixty-four  feet ;  thereby  allowing  eight  feet  for  the  pedestal.  Pococke's  men- 
suration allows  ov\y  jive. 

(5)  Descript.  of  the  East,  vol.1,  p.  23.    Lond.  1743. 

(6)  Travels,  p.  366.    Lond.  1757. 

(7)  Diod.  Sic.  Biblioth.  lib.  i.  p.  38.    Hanov.  1604. 


'■'  ■  i'X-"*.  ■      *fr  A  i<J.  &itf*  i-~K, 


m  :j'±»*iyx 


-■•'--•-■-■--'■ 


116 


CHAP.  IV. 


Minerals  of 
tbe  Arabian 
Desert. 


Petrifactions. 


Doubtful 
Origin  of 
Egyptian 
Jasper. 


E  G  Y  F  T. 

namely,  in  the  mineral  productions  of  the  desert  itself.  A 
beautiful  and  well-known  variety  of  jasper,  commonly 
called  Egyptian  Pebble,  is  found  in  such  abundance,  among 
masses  of  the  most  curious  mineralized  wood,  upon  the 
surface  of  the  sands,  over  all  the  district  eastward  of  Grand 
Cairo,  even  to  the  borders  of  the  Red  Sea,  that  specimens 
might  be  obtained  in  sufficient  abundance  to  serve  as  ballast 
for  a  vessel  bound  from  Suez  to  England.  The  author  had 
collected  almost  enough  to  load  a  camel  before  he  arrived  at 
the  walls  of  the  city  ;  but  when  the  rest  of  the  party  returned, 
they  brought  with  them  a  more  considerable  burden.  Among 
these  were  large  blocks  of  petrified  palm-tree,  of  which 
Mr.  Cripps  had  collected  a  very  great  variety.  They  found 
these  masses  lying  in  detached  fragments  among  the  loose 
sand,  wholly  disengaged  from  any  other  stratum,  and  scat- 
tered over  the  surface  of  the  desert.  In  the  same  manner, 
but  more  frequently,  appeared  the  large  pebbles  of  Egyptian 
jasper,  being  almost  always  of  a  flattened  ovate  shape.  This 
mineral  is  too  well  known  to  require  a  more  particular 
description ;  but  who  can  explain  its  origin  ?  The  received 
opinion,  and  that  which  daily  experience  confirms,  respecting 
siliceous  concretions  in  general,  is  this,  that  they  have  been 
deposited,  after  a  stalactical  process,  in  the  fissures  and  ca- 
vities left  by  air  in  substances  of  anterior  formation.  Admit- 
ting, therefore,  that  every  one  of  these  Egyptian  pebbles  or.ee 
occupied  such  cavities,  in  strata  now  reduced  to  a  pulverized 
state  and  become  the  sand  of  the  desert,  what  idea  can  be 
formed  of  the  antiquity  of  this  kind  of  jasper?  Unlike 
other  flinty  substances,  it  seems  almost  incapable  of  decom- 
position by  exposure  to  the  atmosphere ;  having,  as  an  exterior 

crust. 


EGYPT. 

crust,   a  thin  investiture  of  a  reddish  colour,  which  differs 
in  appearance  only  from   the    nature   of  the   stone   itself; 
the  chemical  analysis  being  precisely  the  same.     Masses  of 
pure    silex,   and    some    chalcedonies    containing    almost  as 
much  alumine  as  the  Egyptian  jasper,  when  thus  exposed  to 
the  continued  action  of  air  and  moisture,  gradually  decom- 
pose, and  assume  the  white  colour  common  to  the  matter  of 
silex    when    in   a    state    of    extreme    division.     But    these 
pebbles,  although  constantly  exposed  to  the   nightly  dews 
of    a    country    where    water    falls    during    the     night    as 
abundantly  as  heavy  rain,  and  to   the  powerful  rays  of  a 
burning  sun  during    the   day,  have   sustained  little    or  no 
alteration.     They  have  also  another  very  remarkable  cha- 
racter.   Although  they  be  destitute  of  that  whitish  surface 
which  is  common  to  every  siliceous  body  long  acted  upon 
by  the  atmosphere,  they  are  always  characterized  by  a  lighter 
colour  towards  the  center  of  each  pebble  ;  and  this  is  some- 
times white.     They  vary  in  their  size,  from  that  of  a  hen's 
egg  to  the   egg   of  an   ostrich;  but  are  rarely    larger,    and 
always    appear     more   or   less    flattened,    so   as    to    exhibit 
a    superior    and    an    inferior    elliptical    surface    upon    each 
specimen.     The   masses   of  mineralized    or   petrified   wood 
had    no  regularity    of   shape,    except   that  parisitical   form 
which   the  mineral,   thus  modified,   had   derived   from  the 
vegetable  whose  fibres  it  had  penetrated  when  in  a  fluid 
state.     It  is  evident,  therefore,    that  these  pebbles  do   not 
owe  their  spheroidal   shape  to  the  effect  of  any  previous 
attrition  in  water;  because  the  masses  of  mineralized  wood, 
possessing  a  degree  of  hardness  inferior  to  the  jasper,  and 
being   associated   with    it,   would   also   have   undergone  a 

^  similar 


.BBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBWWBBWBW 

■■•-•■ 


118 


CHAP.  IV. 


Dates  and 

Corn. 


EGYPT. 

similar  change.  Pococke,  and,  more  recently,  that  intel- 
ligent traveller  Browne,  noticed  these  appearances  in  the 
deserts  ;  the  first  on  the  Arabian,  and  the  last  on  the  Libyan 
side  of  the  Nile1.'  Pococke  seems  to  have  observed  the 
examples  he  alludes  to,  upon  the  same  spot  where  we 
found  them,  or  very  near  to  it,  for  they  occurred  in  the 
first  part  of  his  journey  from  Grand  Cairo  to  Suez2.  Shaw 
mentions,  also,  his  having  observed  instances  of  the  same  kind, 
on  the  isthmus  between  Cairo  and  Suez;  and  the  fabulous 
accounts  of  the  famous  Ras  Sem,  or  petrified  village  in  the 
Cyrenaica,  are  supposed  by  him  to  have  derived  their  origin 
from  similar  phenomena5.  Shaw  notices  a  method  by 
which  the  petrified  palm-tree  may  be  distinguished  from 
any  other  mineralized  wood.  He  says4,  the  fibres,  as  in  the 
living  plant,  "  do  not  run  straight  and  parallel,  as  in  other 
trees;  but  are  for  the  most  part  oblique,  or  diverging  from 
one  another,  in  an  angle  of  about  ten  degrees." 

In  the  gardens  and  cultivated  grounds  near  the  Nile, 
the  inhabitants  were  now  beginning  (August  22)  to  collect 
their  dates ;  but  the  corn  was  still  out  in  some  places. 
The  mercury  in  the  thermometer,  at  noon  this  day,  when 
observed  in  the  desert  east  of  Heliopolis,  did  not  stand 
higher  than  87°  of  Fahrenheit.     The  heat  in  England  has 

been 


(1)  Travels  in  Africa,  from  the  year  1792  to  1798,  by  W.G.  Browne. 

(2)  "  I  observed  in  the  road  many  stones  that  looked  like  petrified  wood 

I  saw  one  piece  that  seemed  to  have  been  a  large  body  of  a  tree."    Descripl,  of  the 
East,  vol.l.p.lZl.   Lond.  1743. 

(3)  See  Shaw's  account  of  the  petrified  village,  or  city,  at  Ras  Sem,  in  the  province 
of  Dasha,  in  the  kingdom  of  Trifoly.     Travels,  p.  155.    Lond.  17&7- 

(4)  Ibid.  p.  161. 


GRAND    CAIRO, 


119 


been    sometimes   almost   equal   to  this   in   the   month    of 
September. 

The  facility  with  which  the  Arabs  run  up  and  down 
the  date-trees,  at  first  sight  surprises  a  stranger ;  but  when 
the  attempt  is  made,  nothing  can  be  easier.  A  series 
of  cavities  in  the  bark  of  those  trees,  as  if  purposely  exca- 
vated to  admit  the  hands  and  feet,  render  the  ascent,  and 
descent,  as  practicable  as  upon  the  steps  of  a  ladder.  We 
frequently  climbed  to  the  top  of  the  tallest  palm-trees  by 
means   of  this  natural  staircase. 

In  the  evening  after  our  arrival,  some  of  our  party  went  to 
see  an  exhibition  of  the  Almehs,  or  Dancing  women,  at  the 
house  of  a  lady  of  some  distinction,  and  where  it  was  believed 
this  curious  remnant  of  antient  Egyptian  ceremonies  might 
be  unattended  with  those  violations  of  decorum  by  which 
they  are  generally  characterized.  This  however  was  not  the 
case.  The  dance  was,  as  usual,  destitute  of  grace,  activity, 
or  decency.  It  consists  wholly  of  gestures,  calculated  to 
express,  in  the  most  gross  and  revolting  manner,  the  inter- 
course of  the  sexes.  In  any  part  of  Europe,  even  if  it  were 
tolerated,  it  would  be  thought  a  degrading  and  wretched 
performance  ;  yet  the  ladies  of  Cairo,  accustomed  to  the  in- 
troduction of  these  women  upon  festival  days,  regard  the 
exercise  of  the  Almehs  with  amusement,  and  even  with 
applause.  If  we  may  judge  from  the  representations  upon 
Grecian  vases,  the  female  Bacchanals  of  antient  Greece 
exhibited  in  their  dances  a  much  more  animated  and  more 
graceful  appearance  :  yet  the  manner  of  dancing  practised 
by  the  Almehs,  however  offensive  in  the  eyes  of  civilized 
nations,   is   the   most   antient.     Hence  the  observation   of 

Cicero, 


CHAP.  IV. 


Almehs. 


GRAND    CAIRO. 

Cicero  ',  "Nemo  saltat  sobrius,  nisi  forte  insanit  :"  and  if 
the  history  of  this  exercise  be  traced  to  its  origin,  it  will  be 
found  to  have  nearly  the  same  character  ail  over  the  world. 
In  the  anger  of  Moses  at  the  dancing  of  the  Israelites';  in 
the  reproach  cast  upon  David,   by  Michal  the  daughter  of 
Saul,  for  his  conduct  when  dancing  before  the  ark5 ;  in  the 
gratification  afforded  to   Herod  by  the  dance  of   Salome4; 
we  may  perceive  what  were  the  characteristics  of  primaeval 
dances  :  and  if  curiosity  should  lead  any  one  to  inquire  what 
sort  of  dancing  is  found  among  modern  nations,  where  the 
exercise  has  not   been  refined  by  civilization,  his  attention 
may  be  directed  to  the  Tarantello  of  Italy,  the  Fandango  of 
Spain,  the  Barina  of  Russia,    the   Calenda  of   Africa,  and 
the  Timorodec  of  Otaheite.     Egypt,  where  no  lapse  of  time 
seems    to  have    effected   change,   where    the  constancy   of 
natural  phenomena  appears   to   have  been  always  accom- 
panied with  the   same  uniformity  of  manners  and  customs, 
Egypt  preserves  its  pristine  attachment  to  a  licentious  dance ; 
and   exhibits   that  dance    as    it   was   beheld,    above   three 
thousand  years  ago,   in   the  annual  procession  to  Bubastus, 
when  the  female  votaries  of  Diana  distinguished  themselves 
in  the  cities  through-  which  they  passed  by  indecency  and 
dancing5.     Considered  therefore  with  reference  to  the  moral 
character  and  habits  of  the  people,  as  well  as  to  their  antient 
history,  this  practice  of  the  Almehs  may  be  entitled  to  some 

notice. 

(1)  Orat.  pro  Muraena. 

(2)  Exod.  xxxii.  19. 

(3)  2  Samuel  vi.  20. 

(4)  Matth.  xiv.  Mark  vi.    Joseph.  Antiq.  Jud.  lib.  xviii.  c.  2. 

(5)  Herodot.  Euterpe,  c.  60.  ] 


GRAND    CAIRO. 

notice.  Indeed,  the  part  they  sustain  in  the  scale  of  society  in 
Egypt  is  so  considerable,  and  the  partiality  shewn  to  them  so 
inveterate  \  that  it  is  impossible  to  give  a  faithful  account  of 
the  country  without  some  allusion  to  these  women.  They 
wear  upon  their  fingers  little  bells,  like  small  cymbals, 
which  they  use  as  the  Italians  and  Spaniards  do  their  cas- 
tagnettes.  They  have  also  tambours  of  different  kinds.  The 
form  of  one  of  these  seems  to  have  been  derived  from  that  of 
the  common  pumpkin,  which  is  frequent  among  the  vege- 
tables of  Egypt ;  for,  although  the  tambour  is  made  of 
wood,  it  has  exactly  the  appearance  of  half  a  large  pump- 
kin, scooped,  with  a  skin  bound  over  it.  The  Arabs  use 
hollow  pumpkins,  when  dried,  as  bottles  to  contain  water  : 
these  becoming  hard,  are  very  durable,  and  may  have  preceded 
the  use  of  a  hollow  hemisphere  of  wood,  in  the  manufacture 
of  a  tambour.  The  dances  of  the  Almehs  are  accompanied 
by  vocal  as  well  as  by  instrumental  music ;  if  that  may  be 

termed 


121 


CHAP.  IV. 


(5)  "  //  nest  point  defete  sans  dies ;  point  defestin  dont  dies  ne  /assent  I'ornement. 

Les  Alme  sont  appellees  dans  tous  les  Harem  ....  Les  Alme  assistent  aux 

ceremonie  de  marriage,  et  marchent  devant  la  mariee  en  jouant  des  instrumens.  Elles 
Jigurent  aussi  dans  les  enterremens,  et  accompagnent  le  convoi  en  chantant  des  airs 
funebres.  Elles  poussent  des  gemissemens,"  kc.  Savary,  Lett,  sur  VEoypte,  torn.  I. 
pp.  150,  152,  154.  Paris,  1785.  Strangers  who  reside  for  some  time  in  Cairo,  however 
disgusted  by  the  exhibition  of  the  Almehs  at  first,  gradually  adopt  the  taste  of  the 
native  inhabitants.  Of  this  we  find  an  instance  in  Niebuhr's  Travels.  "  However 
much  disposed  to  receive  entertainment,  they  did  not  please  us  at  first ;  their  vocal  and 
instrumental  music  we  thought  horrible  ;  and  their  persons  appeared  disgustingly  ugly, 
with  their  yellow  hands,  spotted  faces,  absurd  ornaments,  and  hair  larded  with  stinking 
pomatum.  But  by  degrees  we  learned  to  endure  them,  and,  for  want  of  better,  began 
to  fancy  some  of  them  pretty,  to  imagine  their  voices  agreeable,  their  movements 
graceful,  though  indecent,  and  their  music  not  absolutely  intolerable."  Travels  in 
Arabia,  vol.  I.  p.  140.    Edinb.  1792. 

vol. in.  r 


^S9Hn 


V2C2 


GRAND    CAIRO. 


CHAP.  IV. 


Of  the  Alleluia 
and  Cry  of 

Lamentation. 


termed  vocal,  which  consists  of  a  continual  recurrence  of 
the  same  shrill  sounds,  caused  by  trilling  the  tongue  against 
the  roof  of  the  mouth,  without  the  utterance  of  any 
distinct  words.  Yet  this  singular  mode  of  expressing  joy  is 
all  that  constitutes  the  Alleluia  of  the  Antients.  When 
Lord  Hutchinson  first  entered  Cairo,  after  the  capture  of 
the  city,  he  was  met  by  a  number  of  women  who  greeted 
him  with  Alleluias :  they  accompanied  him  through  the 
streets,  clapping  their  hands,  and  making  this  extraordinary 
noise,  in  a  loud  and  shrill  tone.  It  seems  to  be  a  constant 
repetition  of  the  same  syllable,  al ;  uttered  in  this  manner, 
Alalalalalalalalal,  with  the  utmost  rapidity,  and  without 
interruption  or  pause  of  any  kind.  The  person  who  is 
able  to  continue  this  kind  of  scream  for  the  longest  time, 
without  drawing  breath,  is  supposed  to  be  the  best  per- 
former. The  same  sort  of  singing  is  practised  bv  the 
Almehs  at  funerals,  with  this  difference :  the  Alleluia,  or 
cry  of  joy,  consists  in  a  repetition  of , the  syllable  al ;  and 
that  which  is  used  to  denote  grief,  is  formed  by  a  similar 
repetition  of  the  syllable  ul,  or  el,  constituting  the  lono- 
protracted  elelelelelu,  or  ululation1.  The  tone  of  voice  con- 
tinues the  same  through  both  of  these ;  the  Alleluia,  and 
the  Ululation:  but  there  seemed  to  be  this  distinction 
in  the  manner  of  delivering  the  sounds ;  that  in  the  former 

it 


(l)  In  the  Prometheus  Vinctus  of  iEschylus,  Io  utters  this  cry  of  lamentation 
'YLXtXtXiXtXiv ,  which  the  Scholiast  denominates  Op/VwcSfc  lirid>iityfia.  See  Pau'w's 
jEschylus,  torn.  I.  p.  88,  S77.    Hag.  Com,  1745.    Stanley,  Blomficld,  &c. 


PYRAMIDS    OF    DJIZA. 


123 


it  was  a  tremulous  note  ascending;  in  the  latter,  the 
same  note  descending  in  continual  cadences.  However,  it 
is  exceedingly  difficult,  as  perhaps  the  reader  has  already 
perceived,  to  convey,  or  to  obtain,  ideas  of  musical  sounds 
by  means  of  a  mere  verbal  description. 

Upon  the  twenty-third  of  August  we  set  out  for  the 
Pyramids,  the  inundation  enabling  us  to  approach  within 
less  than  a  mile  of  the  larger  pyramid,  in  our  djerm. 
Messrs.  Hammer  and  Hamilton  accompanied,  us.  We 
arrived  at  Djiza  by  day-break,  and  called  upon  some 
English  officers  who  wished  to  join  our  party  upon  this 
occasion.  From  Djiza,  our  approach  to  the  Pyramids  was 
through  a  swampy  country,  by  means  of  a  narrow  canal, 
which  however  was  deep  enough ;  and  we  arrived  without 
any  obstacle,  at  nine  o'clock,  at  the  bottom  of  a  sandy  slope, 
leading  up  to  the  principal  pyramid.  Some  Bedouin  Arabs, 
who  had  assembled  to  receive  us  upon  our  landing,  were  much 
amused  by  the  eagerness  excited  in  our  whole  party,  to  prove 
who  should  first  set  his  foot  upon  the  summit  of  this  artificial 
mountain.  As  we  drew  near  its  base,  the  effect  of  its  pro- 
digious magnitude,  and  the  amazement  caused  in  viewing 
the  enormous  masses  used  in  its  construction,  affected 
every  one  of  us  ;  but  it  was  an  impression  of  awe  and  fear, 
rather  than  of  pleasure.  In  the  observations  of  travellers  who 
had  recently  preceded  us,  we  had  heard  the  Pyramids  described 
as  huge  objects  which  gave  no  satisfaction  to  the  spectator, 
on  account  of  their  barbarous  shape,  and  formal  appearance  : 
yet  to  us  it  appeared  hardly  possible,  that  persons  sus- 
ceptible   of    any   feeling   of    sublimity  could  behold  them 

unmoved. 


CH\P.  IV. 


Voyage  to  the 
Pyramids.  p 


Appearance 
presented  by 
the  principal 
Pyramid. 


124 


CHAP.  IV. 


PYRAMIDS    OF    DJIZA. 

unmoved.  With  what  amazement  did  we  survey  the  vast 
surface  that  was  presented  to  us,  when  we  arrived  at  this 
stupendous  monument,  which  seemed  to  reach  the  clouds  ! 
Here  and  there  appeared  some  Arab  guides  upon  the 
immense  masses  above  us,  like  so  many  pigmies,  waiting  to 
shew  the  way  up  to  the  summit.  Now  and  then  we  thought 
we  heard  voices,  and  listened ;  but  it  was  the  wind,  in 
powerful  gusts,  sweeping  the  immense  ranges  of  stone. 
Already  some  of  our  party  had  begun  the  ascent,  and  were 
pausing  at  the  tremendous  depth  which  they  saw  below. 
One  of  our  military  companions,  after  having  surmounted 
the  most  difficult  part  of  the  undertaking,  became  giddy 
in  consequence  of  looking  down  from  the  elevation  he  had 
attained ;  and  being  compelled  to  abandon  the  project,  he 
hired  an  Arab  to  assist  him  in  effecting  his  descent.  The 
rest  of  us,  more  accustomed  to  the  business  of  climbing 
heights,  with  many  a  halt  for  respiration,  and  many  an 
exclamation  of  wonder,  pursued  our  way  towards  the  sum- 
mit. The  mode  of  ascent  has  been  frequently  described; 
and  yet,  from  the  questions  which  are  often  proposed  to 
travellers,  it  does  not  appear  to  be  generally  understood. 
The  reader  may  imagine  himself  to  be  upon  a  staircase, 
every  step  of  which,  to  a  man  of  middle  stature,  is 
nearly   breast   high1;    and    the    breadth    of    each    step    is 

equal 


(l)  "  The  stones,  wherewith  the  Pyramids  are  built,  are  from  five  to  thirty  feet 
long  (Herodotus  makes  none  of  these  stones  less  than  thirty  feet)-,  and  from  three  to  four 
feet  high."    Shaw's  Travels,  p.  367.    Lond.1757. 


PYRAMIDS    OF   DJIZA. 


125 


eoual  to   its    height :    consequently,  the  footing  is  secure  ;    ^hap.iv. 
and   although   a   retrospect,    in   going   up,    be    sometimes 
fearful  to  persons  unaccustomed  to  look  down  from   any 
considerable  elevation,  yet  there  is  little  danger  of  falling. 
In    some   places,    indeed,    where   the   stones  are  decayed, 
caution  may   be    required  ;    and   an  Arab  guide  is  always 
necessary,    to    avoid  a  total  interruption;    but,    upon    the 
whole,    the   means    of  ascent  are  such   that   almost   every 
one  may  accomplish  it2.     Our  progress   was    impeded'  by 
other    causes.     We   carried   with   us    a   few   instruments ; 
such   as,   our   boat- compass,    a  thermometer,    a   telescope, 
&c. ;  these  could  not  be  trusted  in  the  hands  of  the  Arabs, 
and   they    were    liable    to    be   broken  every  instant.      At 
length  we  reached  the  topmost  tier,  to  the  great  delight  and 
satisfaction  of  all  the  party.     Here  we  found  a  platform, 

thirty- 


(2)  Upon  this  account,  when  we  reached  the  top  of  the  pyramid,  we  sent  an  Arab 
with  a  short  note  to  the  officer  who  had  abandoned  the  undertaking  ;  urging  him  to 
renew  the  attempt.  After  some  time,  the  messenger  returned,  but  without  our  com- 
panion. The  author,  hearing  this,  went  down  to  him,  and  found  him  in  the  entrance 
to  the  pyramid,  sitting  with  some  Arabs  in  the  shade  afforded  by  the  large  projecting 
masses  of  stone ;  and,  having  with  some  difficulty  prevailed  upon  him  to  renew  the 
attempt,  succeeded  in  conducting  him  to  the  top.  He  expressed  himself  unwilling  to 
return  without  having  gratified  his  curiosity  by  a  view  from  the  summit ;  but  confessed 
that  the  effect  produced  upon  his  mind,  by  the  stupendous  sight  around  him,  was 
rather  painful  than  pleasing,  and  had  rendered  him  wholly  unfit  for  the  exertion  it 
required.  It  is  to  this  circumstance  that  allusion  was  before  made  (See  Chap.  II.  p.  45); 
and  it  confirms  the  truth  of  Mr.  Burke's  observations,  upon  the  impressions  to  which 
men  are  liable,  who,  without  the  smallest  personal  danger,  are  exposed  to  the  contem- 
plation of  objects  exceedingly  vast  in  their  dimensions.  Mr.  Burke  describes  the 
impression  produced  by  the  sublime  as  bordering  upon  a  sensation  of  pain ;  illustrating 
this  by  reference  to  a  person  standing  in  perfect  security  beneath  a  precipice,  and 
looking  up  towards  its  summit.  (See  Philosophical  Enquiry  into  the  Origin  of  our  Ideas 
»f  the  Sublime,  &c.  by  Edmund  Burke.     Sect.  27.  Part  3.  p.  237,  Wc  Lond.  1782. 


SUMP 


126 


CHAP.   IV. 


PYRAMIDS    OF    DJIZA. 

thirty-two  feet  square  ;  consisting  of  nine  large  stones,  each 
of  which  might  weigh  about  a  ton ;  although  they  be  much 
inferior  in  size  to  some  of  the  stones  used  in  the  construction 
of  this  pyramid.  Travellers  of  all  ages,  and  of  various  nations, 
have  here  inscribed  their  names.  Some  are  written  in  Greek ; 
many  in  French ;  a  few  in  Arabic ;  one  or  two  in  English ;  and 
others  in  Latin.  We  were  as  desirous  as  our  predecessors1 
to  leave  a  memorial  of  our  arrival ;  it  seemed  to  be  a  tribute 
of  thankfulness,  due  for  the  success  of  our  undertaking; 
and  presently  every  one  of  our  party  was  seen  busied  in 
adding  the  inscription  of  his  name2. 

Upon  this  area,  which  looks  like  a  point  when  seen 
from  Cairo,  or  from  the  Nile,  it  is  extraordinary 
that  none  of  those  numerous  hermits  fixed  their 
abode,  who  retired  to  the  tops  of  columns,  and  to  almost 
inaccessible  solitudes  upon  the  pinnacles  of  the  highest 
rocks.  It  offers  a  much  more  convenient  and  secure 
retreat  than  was  selected  by  an  ascetic  who  pitched  his 
residence  upon  the  architrave  of  a  temple  in  the  vicinity 
of  Athens.  The  heat,  according  to  Fahrenheit's  thermome- 
ter, at  the  time  of  our  coming,  did  not  exceed  8  1°  ;  and  the 
same  temperature  continued  during  the  time  we  remained, 
a  strong  wind  blowing  from  the  north-west.  The  view 
from  this  eminence  amply  fulfilled  our  expectations  ;  nor  do 

the 


(1)  "  Apres  que  nous  eumes  grave  nos  noms  sur  le  sommet  de  la  pyramide,  nous 
descendimes,"  &c.     Savary  Lett,  sur  V Egyp'te,  torn.  I.  p.  188.    Par,  1/85. 

(2)  In  order  to  prove  how  commodious  a  station  this  place  affords,  it  may  be  men- 
tioned that  the  author  was  enabled  to  write  upon  the  spot  a  letter  to  a  friend  in  England. 


Summit. 


PYRAMIDS    OF    DJIZA.  YZJ 

the  accounts  which  have  been  given  of  it,  as  it  appears  at  this      chap,  iv. 
season  of  the  year,  exaggerate  the  novelty  and  grandeur  of  the    objects  seen 

from  the 

sight.  All  the  region  towards  Cairo  and  the  Delta  resembled  a 
sea,  covered  with  innumerable  islands.    Forests  of  palm-trees 
were  seen  standing  in  the  water;    the  inundation  spreading 
over  the  land  where  they  stood,  so  as  to  give  them  an  appear- 
ance of  growing  in  the  flood.    To  the  north,  as  far  as  the  eye 
could  reach,  nothing  could  be  discerned,  but  a  watery  sur- 
face  thus   diversified    by  plantations  and   by   villages.     To 
the  south  we  saw  the  Pyramids   of  Saccara ;  and,  upon  the 
east  of  these,   smaller  monuments  of  the  same  kind,   nearer 
to    the   Nile.     An    appearance    of  ruins   might   indeed   be 
traced  the  whole  way  from  the  Pyramids  of  Djiza  to  those 
of  Saccara  ;  as  if  they  had  been   once  connected,   so  as  to 
constitute  one  vast   coemetery.      Beyond   the   Pyramids   of 
Saccara   we   could   perceive   the  distant  mountains   of  the 
Said  ;    and    upon    an    eminence   near   the  Libyan  side   of 
the  Nile  appeared   a  monastery  of  considerable   size.     To- 
wards  the  west  and  south-west,   the  eye  ranged  over  the 
great  Libyan  Desert,  extending  to  the  utmost  verge  of  the 
horizon,    without  a   single    object  to    interrupt  the  dreary 
horror  of  the  landscape,  except  dark  floating  spots,  caused 
by  the  shadows  of  passing  clouds  upon  the  sand. 

Upon  the  south-east  side  is  the  gigantic  statue  of  the 
Sphinx,  the  most  colossal  piece  of  sculpture  which  emains 
of  all  the  works  executed  by  the  Antients.  Th  „  French 
have  ^uncovered  all  the  pedestal  of  this  statue,  and  all 
the  cumbent  or  leonine  parts  of  the  figure;  these  were 
before  entirely  concealed   by  sand.     Instead,  however,  of 

answering 


mhHNmI  mm 


■■■     >#«*&*?    ■■■■■■■■ 


■MMBI  ■ 


128  PYRAMIDS    OF   DJIZA. 

chap.  iv.  answering  the  expectations  raised  concerning  the  work 
upon  which  it  was  supposed  to  rest,  the  pedestal  proves 
to  be  a  wretched  substructure  of  brick- work,  and  small 
pieces  of  stone,  put  together  like  the  most  insignificant  piece 
of  modern  masonry,  and  wholly  out  of  character,  both  with 
respect  to  the  prodigious  labour  bestowed  upon  the  statue 
itself,  and  the  gigantic  appearance  of  the  surrounding  objects. 
Beyond  the  Sphinx  we  distinctly  discerned,  amidst  the 
sandy  waste,  the  remains  and  vestiges  of  a  magnificent 
building  ;  perhaps  the  Serape'um.  A  sort  of  chequered  work 
appeared  in  the  middle  of  many  of  the  stones  belonging 
to  this  ruined  edifice.  It  is  unnoticed  by  every  author  who 
has  written  upon  the  Pyramids.  Indeed,  the  observation  of 
Geoffroy,  as  given  in  a  Rapport  made  to  the  Institute  of 
Egypt,  during  the  residence  of  the  French  at  Cairo ',  is  very 
just ;  that  all  preceding  travellers  have  attended  only  to  the 
principal  objects  in  their  visits  of  the  Pyramids.  They 
have  disregarded  a  number  of  other  remains,  less  entire, 
and  more  diminutive,  but  calculated  to  throw  conside- 
rable light  upon  the  history  of  those  antiquities  which  here 
occupy  such  a  surprising  extent.  Strabo,  whose  observations 
were  certainly  made  upon  the  spot,  as  will  hereafter  be 
proved,  has  given,  in  his  account  of  Memphis,  a  description  of 
the  situation  of  the  Serape'um,  pointedly  applicable  to  this 
position  of  it;  indeed  it  seems  almost  identified  by  his  remark. 

He 


(l)  "  Rapport  a"  rinstitut  sur  les  recherches  h  faire  dans  l'emplacement  de  l'ancienne 
Memphis,  et  dans  toute  l'etendue  des  ses  sepultures."  Vby.  Courier  de  I'Egypte, 
No.  104.  p.  3.  Au  Kaire,  de  I'Imprimerie  Nationale. 


PYRAMIDS    OF    DJIZA. 

He  says  it  stood  in  a  place  so  sandy,  that  hills  of  sand  were 
heaped  there  by  the  winds;  and  mentions  the  remains  of 
Sphinxes,  as  marking  the  place  where  it  stood2.  A  writer 
of  somewhat  later  date,  the  author  of  the  Sibylline  Verses, 
which  are  believed  to  be  a  composition  of  the  second  century, 
may  rather  allude  to  the  Serapeum  at  Memphis,  than  to 
the  temple  at  Alexandria,  by  the  situation  he  assigns  to 
Serapis  . 

Immediately  beneath  our  view,  upon  the  eastern  and 
western  side,  we  saw  so  many  tombs,  that  we  were 
unable  to  count  them;  some  being  half  buried  in  the 
sand,  others  rising  considerably  above  it.  All  these  are 
of  an  oblong  form,  with. sides  sloping,  like  the  roofs  of 
European  houses.  A  plan  of  their  situation  and  appear- 
ance is  given  in  Pococke's  Travels4.  The  second  pyramid, 
standing  to  the  south-west,  has  the  remains  of  a  covering 
near  its  vertex,  as  of  a  plating  of  stone  which  had  once 
invested  all  its  four  sides.  Some  persons,  deceived  by  the 
external  hue  of  this  covering,  have  believed  it  to  be 
of  marble ;  but  its  white  appearance  is  owing  to  a 
partial  decomposition,  affecting  the  surface  only.  Not 
a    single   fragment   of   marble'   can   be   found    anywhere 

near 


129 


CHAP.  IV. 


(2)  "Eort  Se  rat  ^tpdireiov  hv  dfi/nuhi  totu  otyodpa,  waff  vr  dvt/xuv  Qlvac  dfifiuv 
owpevtodai,  d<f  uv  al  ofyiyyiz-  k.  t.  \.  "  Est  etiam  Serapium,  in  loco  valde  arenoso,  adeo 
ut  arenae  colles  a  ventis  exaggerentur:  ibi  vidimus  Sphinges,"  &c.  Strab.  Geog.  lib.xv'u. 
p.  1145.  Ed.  Oxon. 

(3)  Kai  av  lipan,  \16u1g  eiriKeipievo.  "  Tuque  Serapi  sedens  in  saxis."  Sibyllina 
Oracula,  lib.  v.  ad  Jin. 

(4)  Description  of  the  East,  vol.1.   Plate  xvi.  p.  41.   Lond.  1743. 

(5)  Marble  was  not  used  for  buildings  in  very  antient  times.    "  It  does  not  appear," 

vol.  in.  s  "ys 


*•.*--.  »^bp»-».»  »;>..<;•  .-»,>,r »-'*.,»-'*.--■  .'.^.j  ■    :•.>.-:  /-t^^t-Jn.i-J'.v^r.' 


130 


CHAP.  IV. 


Limestone 
used  in  con- 
structing the 
greater  Pyra- 
mid. 


PYRAMIDS    OF    DJIZA. 

near  this  pyramid.  It  is  surrounded  by  a  paved  court, 
having  walls  on  the  outside,  and  places  as  for  doors,  or 
portals,  in  the  walls  ;  also  an  advanced  work,  or  portico. 
A  third  pyramid,  of  much  smaller  dimensions  than  the 
second,  appears  beyond  the  Sphinx,  to  the  south-west; 
and  there  are  three  others,  one  of  which  is  nearly  buried 
in  sand,  between  the  large  pyramid  and  this  statue,  to 
the  south-east1. 

Having  thus  surveyed  the  principal  objects,  as  they 
appeared  from  the  summit  of  the  greater  pyramid,  we 
proceeded  to  the  examination  of  the  substances  which 
compose  its  exterior  surface. 

The  stones  of  the  platform  upon  the  top,  as  well  as 
most  of  the  others  used  in  constructing  the  decreasing  ranges 
from  the  base  upwards,  are  of  soft  limestone  ;  a  little  harder, 
and  more  compact,  than  what  some  of  our  English  masons 
vulgarly  call  chinch;  whereof  King's  College  Chapel  <xt 
Cambridge,  and  great  part  of  Ely  Cathedral,  is  built.  It  is 
of  a  greyish  white  colour ;  and  has  this  remarkable  property, 
that  when  broken  by  a  smart  blow  with  a  hammer,  it  exhales 

the 


says  Shaw,  "  that  marble  was  used  by  the  Grecian  artists,  either  in  sculpture  or  building, 
before  the  15th  Olympiad,  B.C.  720.  Daedalus's  statues  of  Hercules  and  Venus 
were  of  wood  ;  of  which,  or  of  rough  stone,  were  likewise  their  idols  and  temples,  till 
that  time.  The  antient  Temple  of  Delphi  was  built  about  the  65th  Olympiad,  B.C. 
520,  or  513  years  after  the  Temple  of  Solomon."  See  Shaw's  Trav.  p.  368.  Note  5. 
Lond.  1757. 

(1)  In  mentioning  these  particulars,  the  author  may  possibly  repeat  what  other 
travellers  have  said  before,  without  being  conscious  of  so  doing :  indeed,  it  is  hardly 
possible  to  avoid  repetition,  upon  a  subject  which  has  been  discussed  by  thousands, 
although  the  utmost  vigilance  be  used. 


PYRAMIDS    OF    DJIZA. 

the  fetid  odour  common  to  the  dark  limestone  of  the  Dead 
Sea,  and  of  many  other  places  ;  owing  to  the  disengagement 
of  a  gaseous  sulphureted  hydrogen.  This  character  is 
very  uncommon  in  white  limestone,  although  it  may  be 
frequently  observed  in  the  darker  varieties.  It  is  now  very 
generally  admitted,  that  the  stones,  of  which  the  Pyramids 
consist,  are  of  the  same  nature  as  the  calcareous  rock 
whereon  they  stand,  and  that  this  was  cut  away  in  order 
to  form  them :  Herodotus  says  they  were  brought  from 
the  Arabian  side  of  the  Nile4.  Another  more  compact 
variety  of  limestone  is  found  in  detached  masses  at  the  base 
of  these  structures,  exactly  as  it  is  described  by  Strabo ; 
seeming  to  consist  entirely  of  mineralized  exuvice,  derived 
from  some  animal  now  unknown.  We  did  not  observe  this 
variety  among  the  constituents  of  the  Pyramids  themselves, 
but  in  loose  fragments  upon  the  sand3.  The  forms  of  the 
petrifaction  are  lenticular.  We  noticed  an  extraneous  fossil 
of  the  same  nature  in  the  Crimea,  which  has  also  been 
described  by  Pallas4.  Strabo's  description  of  this  substance 
corresponds,  in  so  striking  a  manner,  with  its  present  ap- 
pearance, that  his  account  of  it  may  be  noticed  as  affording 
internal    evidence  of  his  visit   to  the  spot.    "  Among   the 

wonders, 


131 


CHAP.  IV. 


(2)  Euterpe,  c.  8. 

(3)  The  author  has  since  been  informed  that  it  has  been  observed  among  the 
stones  of  which  the  principal  pyramid  is  built. 

(4)  It  has  received  the  appellation  of  Lapis  Nummularius,  from  the  resemblance  of 
these  lenticular  forms  to  small  coins.  See  the  First  Part  of  these  Travels,  Chap,  XX. 
p.5lQ.    Second  Edition. 


HHhHH       I^HBNKB^flHRfli 


132 


CHAP.  IV. 


Extraneous 
Fossil  de- 
scribed by 
Strabo. 


PYRAMIDS    OF    DJIZA. 

wonders/'  says  he1,  "  which  we  saw  at  the  Pyramids,  there  is 
one  which  ought  on  no  account  to  pass  without  notice.  There 
are  heaps  of  stones,  lying  among  the  ruins  before  the 
Pyramids,  in  which  are  found  little  petrifactions,  in  form 
and  size  exactly  resembling  the  natural  appearance  of 
lentils.  The  tradition  is,  that  these  lentils  are  the  petrified 
remains  of  the  food  given  to  the  workmen."  Notwith- 
standing the  throng  of  travellers,  particularly  of  late  years, 
who  have  resorted  to  the  Pyramids,  almost  all  of  whom 
have  borne  away  some  memorial  of  their  visit  to  the  place, 
not  a  single  specimen  of  this  very  curious  variety  of  lime- 
stone has  yet  been  observed  in  any  collection  of  minerals, 
public  or  private4.  Shaw  mentions  the  mortar  used  in  the 
construction  of  t*he  Pyramids3 ;  although  a  very  erroneous 
notion  be  still  prevalent,  that  the  most  antient  buildings  were 
erected  without  the  use  of  cement.  A  reference  to  this  kind 
of  test  has  been  frequently  made,  with  a  view  to  ascertain 
the  age  of  antient  architecture.  All  that  can  be  asserted, 
however,  upon  this  subject,  with  any  degree  of  certainty, 
is,  that  if  the  most  antient  architecture  of  Greece  sometimes 

exhibit 


(1)  ''Ev  Se  ti  tuv  opaQivruv  v<$>  r\\iuv  iv  raig  Uvpa/uiai  irapacofav  ovk  afyffv 
irapaKiiTEltv.  'Ek  yap  rrjc  Xari/V^c  ovpoi  rivs<;  irpo  tuv  Tlvpa/ulcuv  tceivTai'  iv  rov- 
tois  cP  evptoKtrat  \ptjyp,ara  ical  rvirto  ical  p.tytdei  <[>aicoti<i>j'  ivionj  t)f,  ical  u>;  dv  wTiap.a 
otov  TfpiiXtTriffTuv  viroTpcyti.  tyaol  c)'  dTToXcdudfjvat  Xct^ava  rfjg  tuv  ipya^ojxevup 
Tpocpiji.     Stralon.  Geog.  lib.wn.  p.  1146.     Ed.  Oxon. 

(2)  Greaves  was  almost  disposed  to  doubt  the  truth  of  Strabo's  description,  because 
he  did  not  observe  these  petrifactions.  "  Were  not  Strabo  a  writer  of  much  gravity, 
I  should  suspect  these  petrified  graines."      Pyramidog.  p.  l\g.    Lond,  1646. 

(3)  Travels  in  the  Levant,  p.  368.    Lond.  17 57. 


PYRAMIDS    OF    DJIZA. 


123 


exhibit  examples  of  masonry  without  mortar,  that  of  Egypt  ^hap.iv. 
is  very  differently  characterized.  As  we  descended  from  the 
summit,  we  found  mortar  in  all  the  seams  of  the  different 
layers  upon  the  outside  of  the  pyramid ;  but  no  such 
appearance  could  be  discerned  in  the  more  perfect  masonry 
of  the  interior.  Of  this  mortar  we  detached  and  brought 
away  several  specimens.  It  is  of  a  coarse  kind ;  and  con- 
tains minute  fragments  of  terra  cotta.  Grobert  says  it  does 
not  differ  from  the  mortar  now  in  use4.  Shaw  believed  it 
to  consist  of  sand,  wood  ashes,  and  lime*. 

The  French  had  been  very  assiduous  in  their  researches    Labours  of 

the  French 

among  these  buildings.  They  even  attempted  to  open  the  Army. 
smallest  of  the  three  principal  Pyramids  ;  and  having 
effected  a  very  considerable  chasm  in  one  of  its  sides, 
have  left  this  mark  behind  them,  as  an  everlasting  testi- 
mony of  their  curiosity  and  zeal.  The  landing  of  our 
army  in  Egypt  put  a  stop  to  their  labour.  Had  it 
not  been  for  this  circumstance,  the  interior  of  that 
mysterious  monument  would  probably  be  now  submitted 
to  the  inquiry  which  has  long  been  an  object  among 
literary  men. 

We  wrere  employed  for  a  considerable  time  in  a  very 
useless  manner,  by  endeavouring  to  measure  the  height  of 
the  greater  pyramid.     This  we  endeavoured  to  effect,   by 
extending    a    small   cord   from    the    summit   to   the  base, 
along  the  angles  formed  by  the  inclination  of  its  planes  ; 

*      and 


(4)  See  Denon's  Voyage,  as  published  by  Peltier,  torn.  II.  p.  80.  Append.  Land.  1802. 

(5)  See  Shaw's  Travel*,  p.  368.  also  p.  200.    Lond.  1757. 


'  ■     ■'  I    ' 


»&» 


■  HBB     BUS  BBB 


134 


PYRAMIDS    OF    D  J  I  Z  A. 


chap,  iv.  an(i  then  measuring  the  base  as  accurately  as  possible, 
together  with  the  angle  of  inclination  subtended  by  the 
sides  of  the  pyramid.  The  result,  however,  as  it  disagreed 
with  any  account  hitherto  published,  did  not  satisfy  us\ 
It  is  a  curious  circumstance,  that  all  accounts  of  its  per- 
pendicular height  differ  from  each  other.  Some  French 
1  engineers  measured  successively  all  the  different  ranges  of 
stone,  from  the  base  to  the  summit.  According  to  their 
observations,  the  height  of  this  pyramid  equals  four  hundred 
and  forty-eight  French  feet'. 

We  now  proposed  to  enter  this  pyramid  :  and  as  an 
inquiry  into  the  origin  and  antiquity  of  these  buildings  will 
be  reserved  for  a  subsequent  consideration,  (after  a  careful 
examination  of  the  Pyramids  of  Saccdra,  as  well  as  of  those 
of  Dj'iza,)  a  few  brief  remarks,  containing  little  else  than 
a  mere  description  of  objects,  as  they  appeared  to  us,  are  alL 
that  will  be  added  to  this  Chapter. 

As  we  ascended  the  sandy  slope  that  extends  from 
the  mouth  of  the  pyramid,  on  each  side,  towards  the 
angles  at  the  base,  we  observed  that  the  Arabs  had  con- 
siderably increased  in  number  since  our  arrival,  and  were 
very  clamorous.     One  of  them,  while  we  were  measuring 

the 


(1)  "  Although  these  immense  masses  had  been  within  our  view  for  the  preceding 
three  days,  and  we  gradually  approached  them  in  the  boat,  on  our  arrival  we  were 
more  astonished  than  ever  :  the  prodigious  stones  which  are  piled  one  upon  another 
in  regular  courses,  and  joined  together  with  cement,  are  continued  to  such  an  exceeding 
height,  that  some  persons  on  the  top  of  the  great  pyramid  appeared  to  us  immediately 
under  it,  as  if  they  were  birds."     Squire  s  MS.  Journal. 

(2)  Descript.  des  Pyratti.  de  Gkize,  par  J.  Grolert.     See  Peltier's  Edit,  of  Voyage 
en  Egypte  par  Denon,  append,  torn.  II.  p.  62.     Lond.  1802. 


PYRAMIDS   OF  DJIZA. 


135 


the  pyramid,  had  stolen  the  boat-compass  given  to  us  by 
Captain  Clarke ;  an  irretrievable  loss  in  such  a  situation. 
We  offered  ten  times  its  value  to  the  Sheik  who  accom- 
panied us,  but  the  thief  had  disappeared;  besides,  it  was 
impossible  to  make  an  Arab  sensible  of  the  sort  of  instru- 
ment for  whose  recovery  the  reward  was  proposed.  The 
JBecouin,  who  had  stolen  it,  no  doubt  considered  it  to  be 
a  tox  of  magic  or  of  divination,  whereby  infidels  w^ere 
guiled  to  the  knowledge  of  hidden  treasure;  in  search  of 
wh:ch  they  always  believed  us  to  be  engaged.  They  had 
the  same  opinion  of  the  thermometer  which  they  saw  us 
carry  to  the  summit.  In  many  parts  of  Turkey,  this  last 
was  believed  to  be  an  instrument  for  ascertaining  distances 
during  a  journey. 

Having  collected  our  party  upon  a  sort  of  platform 
before  the  entrance  of  the  passage  leading  to  the  interior, 
and  lighted  a  number  of  tapers,  we  all  descended  into 
its  dark  mouth.  The  impression  made  upon  every  one 
of  us,  in  viewing  the  entrance,  was  this  ;  that  no 
set  of  men  whatever  could  thus  have  opened  a  pas- 
sage, by  uncovering  precisely  the  part  of  the  pyramid 
where  the  entrance  was  concealed,  unless  they  had  been 
previously  acquainted  with  its  situation;  and  for  these 
reasons:  First,  because  its  position  is  almost  in  the 
centre  of  one  of  its  planes,  instead  of  being  at  the 
base.  Secondly,  that  not  a  trace  appears  of  those  dila- 
pidations which  must  have  been  the  result  of  any  search 
for  a  passage  to  the  interior ;  such  as  now  distinguish  the 

labours 


CHAP.  IV. 

Theft  com- 
mitted by 
an  Arab. 


Visit  to  the 
Interior  of  the 
larger  Pyra- 
mid. 


■-■-■■■-.• 


136 


CHAP.  IV. 


PYRAMIDS    OF   DJIZA. 

labours  of  the  French  upon  the  smaller  pyramid,  which  they 
attempted  to  open.  The  persons  who  undertook  the  work, 
actually  opened  the  pyramid  in  the  only  point,  over*  all 
its  vast  surface,  where,  from  the  appearance  of  the  stones 
inclined  to  each  other  above  the  mouth  of  the  passage, 
any  admission  to  the  interior  seems  to  have  been  ori- 
ginally intended.  So  marvellously  concealed  as  this  was, 
are  we  to  credit  the  legendary  story  given  to  us  from 
an  Arabian  writer,  who,  discoursing  of  the  Wonders  of 
Egypt1,  attributed  the  opening  of  this  pyramid  to  Almamon, 
a  Caliph  of  Babylon,  about  nine  hundred  and  fifty  years 
since  ?  A  single  passage  of  Strabo  overturns  its  credit  in  an 
instant ;  as  the  same  entrance  was  evidently  known  to  him, 
above  eight  centuries  before  the  existence  of  the  said  Caliph. 
He  describes  not  only  the  exact  position  of  the  mouth  of 
the  pyramid,  but  even  the  nature  of  the  passage  leading  to 
the  ©ifcij,  or  Soros,  in  such  a  manner,  that  it  is  impossible 
to  obtain,  in  fewer  words,  a  more  accurate  description9.     It 

seems 


(1)  G.  Almec.  Hist.  Arab,  ex  Edit.  Erp.  See  Greaves's  Pyramidographia,  pag.  44. 
Lond.  1646.  Maillet  had  a  similar  notion:  "  Ce  fut  done  sans  doute  sous  les 
Princes  Mahometans,  et  par  le  Calife  Mahmout,  qui  regnoit  a  Bagdad,  et  qui 
mourut  l'an  de  l'Egyre  205,  ainsi  que  le  rapportent  les  auteurs  Arabes,  que  cette 
impiete  fut  commise."     Description  de  VEgypte,  torn.  I.  p.  3 1 9.     1740. 

(2)  "'Evft  <T  t'v  v\pei  fxtoar,  true  ruv  ifktvpuv  \lQov  i^atpeffi/Liov'  dpdivroc  ce  <rvpiv\ 
iarX  tTKoXtd  pe^pi  rfji  drJKrfc.  "  In  media  fere  laterum  altitudine,  lapis  exemtilis  est  1 
eoque  sublato  obliqua  fistula  usque  ad  loculum."  Stral.  Geog.  lib.  xvii.  p.  1145. 
Ed.  Oxon. 

The    Oxford   Editor  of   Strabo,    in  commenting  upon   the    words  vvpivl,    earl 

ck6\i  d 


Entrance  to  il.r    PRINCIPAL    PYRAMID    of  DJI'/.A, 
/ii'/i/    /Jetton 

/•„/.;,.  i  <;,,,,,/  x  it. /),,,,:.<  . '//,/,„/  London 


.  iwiiii  mm®  -mm  mm 


■■ 


PYRAMIDS    OF    DJIZA. 

seems  also  true,  that  this  opening  had  been  made  before 
the  time  of  Herodotus,  although  his  testimony  be  less  de- 
cisive. He  speaks  only  of  subterraneous  chambers3;  but  it 
were  impossible  to  know  any  thing  of  their  existence,  unless 
the  pyramid  had  first  been  entered^  Hence  it  is  evident, 
that  a  passage  to  the  interior  had  been  open  from  the  ear- 
liest times  in  which  any  account  was  given  of  this  pyramid ; 
and  perhaps  it  never  was  so  completely  closed,  but  that  with 
a  little  difficulty  an  access  might  be  effected.  Proceeding 
down  this  passage,  (which  may  be  compared  to  a  chimney 
about  a  yard  wide,  inclined,  as  Greaves  affirms4,  by  an  angle 
of  twenty-six  degrees  to  the  platform  at  the  entrance,) 
we  presently  arrived  at  a  very  large  mass  of  granite  ;  this 
seems  placed  on  purpose  to  choke  up  the  passage  :  but  a  way 
has  been  made  round  it,  by  which  we  were  enabled  to 
ascend  into  a  second  channel,  sloping,  in  a  contrary  direction, 
towards  the  mouth  of  the  first.  This  is  what  Greaves  calls 
the  first  gallery";  and  his  description  is  so  exceedingly  minute, 
both  as  to  the  admeasurements  and  other  circumstances 
belonging  to  these  channels,  that  it  were  a  useless  waste  of 
the  reader's  time  to  repeat  them  here.  Having  aseended 
along  this  channel,  to  the  distance  of  one  hundred  and  ten 

feet, 


137 


CHAP.  IV. 


trcoXid  iii\pt  rrjs  drjtcris,  justly  observes  (Fid.  Not.  1"J.  ibid.)  the  coincidence 
between  Strabo's  description  of  the  entrance,  and  that  given  by  Greaves  and 
Le  Bruyn. 

(3)  Herodot.   Euterpe,  c.  125. 

(4)  Pyramidographia,  p.  85.    Lond.  \6AQ. 

(5)  Ibid.  p.  8(3. 

VOL.    III.  T 


138 


PYRAMIDS    OF    DJ1ZA. 


'  CHAP1Vj  ^eet?  we  came  to  a  horizontal  passage,  leading  to  a  chamber 
with  an  angular  roof,  in  the  interior  of  the  pyramid.  In 
this  passage  we  found,  upon  our  right  hand,  the  mysterious 

observation  at    well,  which  has  been  so  often  mentioned.     Pliny  makes  the 

the  Well. 

depth  of  it  equal  to  one  hundred  and  twenty-nine  feet ;  but 
Greaves,  in  sounding  it  with  a  line,  found  the  plummet  rest 
at  the  depth  of  twenty  feet.  We  were  able  to  ascertain  the 
cause  of  failure  in  Greaves's  observation,  and  in  those  of 
almost  all  others  who  have  attempted  to  measure  the  depth  of 
this  well.  The  mouth  of  it  is  barely  large  enough  to  admit 
the  passage  of  a  man's  body ;  but,  as  this  may  be  effected,  it 
is  to  be  regretted  that  the  French,  during  all  their  researches 
here,  did  not  adopt  some  plan  for  the  effectual  examination 
of  a  place  likely  to  throw  considerable  light  upon  the  nature  of 
the  pyramid,  and  the  foundation  upon  which  it  stands.  This 
would  require  more  time  than  travellers  usually  can  spare,  and 
more  apparatus  than  they  can  carry  with  them.  In  the  first 
place,  it  would  be  necessary  to  fasten  lighted  tapers  at  the 
end  of  a  long  cord,  to  precede  the  person  descending,  as  a  pre- 
caution whereby  the  quality  of  the  air  below  may  be  proved, 
and  those  fatal  effects  prevented  which  often  attend  an 
improvident  descent  into  wells,  and  subterraneous  chambers 
of  every  description.  Many  hands,  too,  would  be  required 
above,  to  manage  and  sustain  the  ropes  by  which  any  ad- 
venturer, during  the  experiment,  must  remain  suspended. 
'  The  greatest  danger  to  be  apprehended  would  consist  in  the 
hazard  of  an  exposure  to  mephitic  air ;  but  due  precaution, 
in  a  careful  attention  to  the  tapers  lowered  first,  might 
obviate  this.     We  threw  down  some  stones,  and  observed 

that 


PYRAMIDS    OF    DJIZA. 

that  they  rested  at  about  the  depth  which  Greaves  has  men- 
tioned ;  but  being  at  length  provided  with  a  stone  nearly  as 
large  as  the  mouth  of  the  well,  and  about  fifty  pounds 
in  weight,  we  let  this  fall,  listening  attentively  to  the  result 
from  the  spot  where  the  other  stones  rested :  we  were 
agreeably  surprised  by  hearing,  after  a  length  of  time  which 
must  have  equalled  some  seconds,  a  loud  and  distinct  report, 
seeming  to  come  from  a  spacious  subterraneous  apartment, 
accompanied  by  a  splashing  noise,  as  if  the  stone  had  been 
broken  into  pieces,  and  had  fallen  into  a  reservoir  of  water 
at  an  amazing  depth.  Thus  does  experience  always  tend  to 
confirm  the  accounts  left  us  by  the  Antients  ;  for  this  exactly 
answers  to  the  description  given  by  Pliny  of  this  well ';  and, 
:n  all  probability,  the  depth  of  it  does  not  much  differ  from 
hat  which  he  mentions,  of  eighty-six  cubits,  or  one  hundred 
ind  twenty- nine  feet,  making  the  cubit  equal  to  eighteen 
nches.  Pliny  says  that  the  water  of  the  Nile  was  believed  to 
:ommunicate  with  this  well.  The  inundation  of  the  river  was 
low  nearly  at  its  height.  Can  it  be  supposed,  that,  by 
some  hitherto  unobserved  and  secret  channels,  it  is  thus  con- 
veyed to  the  bottom  of  this  well  ?  It  seems  more  probable, 
that  the  water  is  nothing  more  than  the  usual  result  of  an 
?xcavation  in  a  stratum  of  limestone,  carried  on  to  the  depth  at 
which  water  naturally  lies  in  other  wells  of  the  same  country ; 
as,  for  example*  in  the  pit  called  Joseph's  Well,  in  the  Citadel 
of  Grand  Cairo.     The  hill  on  which  this  pyramid  stands  is 

elevated 


139 


CHAP.  IV. 


(1)  "  In  Pyramide  maxima  est  intus  puteus  octoginta  sex  cubitorum,  flumen  ill© 
admissum  arbitrantur."     Plin.  Hist,  Nat.    lib.  xxxvi.  c.  12.     L.  Bat.  1635. 


'  M^^H  -v***  w*T  ■ 


y4Vitf*?«8S!S^^ 


140 


PYRAMIDS    OF    DJTZA. 


CHAP.  IV. 


Examination 
of  some  infe- 
rior Channels. 


elevated  about  a  hundred  feet  above  the  level  of  the  plain 
country  through  which  the  Nile  flows  ;  and,  allowing  for 
the  height  of  the  mouth  of  the  well  above  the  base  of  the 
pyramid,  we  shall  have  nearly  the  distance  required  for  a 
shaft  sunk  below  the  bed  of  the  river. 

Some  of  the  officers  belonging  to  our  party,  while  we  were 
occupied  in  examining  the  well,  had  discovered  two  or  three 
low  ducts,  or  channels,  bearing  off  from  this  passage  to  the 
east  and  west,  (like  those  intersecting  veins  called  by  miners 
cross -courses,)  and  which  they  believed  to  have  been  over- 
looked by  former  travellers.  Certainly  there  is  no  accurate 
notice  of  them  in  the  descriptions  given  by  Sandys,  Greaves, 
Vansleb,  Pococke,  Shaw,  Niebuhr,  Maillet,  Lucas,  Norden, 
Savary,  or  any  other  author  that  we  have  consulted.  Per- 
haps the  French  engineers  employed  under  Menou  in  the 
examination  of  the  Pyramids,  by  removing  the  stones  which 
had  closed  the  mouths  of  these  channels,  have  laid  them 
open.  We  undertook  a  most  laborious  and  difficult  task,  in 
penetrating  to  the  extremities  of  these  ducts.  The  entrance 
being  too  low  to  admit  a  person  upon  his  hands  and  knees,  it 
was  necessary  to  force  a  passage  by  lying  flat  upon  our  faces, 
gradually  insinuating  our  bodies,  by  efforts  with  our  arms 
and  feet  against  the  sides.  The  difficulty,  too,  was  increased 
by  the  necessity  of  bearing  lighted  tapers  in  our  hands, 
which  were  liable  to  be  extinguished  at  every  instant,  in  the 
efforts  made  to  advance.  As  we  continued  to  struggle  in  this 
manner,  one  after  another,  fearful  of  being  at  last  jammed 
between  the  stones,  or  suffocated  by  heat  and  want  of  air,  a 
number  of  bats,  alarmed  by  our  intrusion,  endeavoured  to 

make 


PYRAMIDS    OF    DJIZA. 


141 


make  their  escape.  This  we  would  gladly  have  permitted,  but 
it  was  not  easily  effected.  Flying  against  our  hands  and 
faces,  they  presently  extinguished  some  of  our  tapers,  and 
were  with  difficulty  suffered  to  pass  by  us.  After  all  our 
trouble,  we  observed  little  worth  notice  at  the  end  of  any  of 
these  cavities.  In  one,  whicli  the  author  examined,  he 
found,  at  the  extremity  of  the  channel,  a  small  square  apart- 
ment, barely  large  enough  to  allow  of  his  sitting  upright; 
the  floor  of  which  was  covered  with  loose  stones,  promiscu- 
ously heaped,  as  by  persons  who  had  succeeded  in  clearing 
the  passage  leading  thither.  All  these  trifling  channels  and 
chambers  are  perhaps  nothing  more  than  so  many  vacant 
spaces,  necessary  in  carrying  on  the  work  during  the  con- 
struction of  this  vast  pile,  which  the  workmen  neglected  to 
fill  as  the  building  proceeded;  like  the  cavities  behind 
the  metopes  in  the  Parthenon  at  Athens,  which,  although 
usually  filled  in  Grecian  temples,  were,  as  we  find  in  certain 
instances,   left  void. 

After  once  more  regaining  the  passage  whence  these  ducts 
diverge,  we  examined  the  chamber  at  the  end  of  it,  mentioned 
by  all  who  have  described  the  interior  of  this  building.  Its 
roof  is  angular ;  that  is  to  say,  it  is  formed  by  the  inclination 
of  large  masses  of  stone  leaning  towards  each  other,  like 
the  appearance  presented  by  those  masses  which  are  above 
the  entrance  to  the  pyramid.  Then  quitting  the  passage 
altogether,  we  climbed  the  slippery  and  difficult  ascent  which 
leads  to  what  is  called  the  principal  chamber.  The  work- 
manship, from  its  perfection,  and  its  immense  propor- 
tions, is  truly  astonishing.     All   about  the  spectator,  as  he 

proceeds, 


CHAP.  IV. 


Chamber  of     • 
the  Sepulchre. 


mmm  ■  wmmm  ^^■■^M  m^mm 


PYRAMIDS    OF    DJIZA. 

proceeds,  is  full  of  majesty,  and  mystery,  and  wonder.  The 
materials  of  this  gallery  are  said  by  Greaves  to  consist  of 
white  and  polished  marble i.  This  we  did  not  observe. 
Pococke  also  mentions  pilasters  in  an  anticloset  before  the 
principal  chamber2.  Both  which  imply  circumstances  in- 
consistent with  received  opinions  in  the  history  of  antient 
architecture.  The  pilaster  is  believed  to  be  of  modern  date; 
and  marble,  according  to  some  writers,  was  not  used  by  archi- 
tects before  the  fifteenth  Olympiad3.  Presently  we  entered 
that  "  glorious  roome,"  as  it  is  justly  called  by  Greaves4, 
where,  "  as  within  some  consecrated  oratory,  Art  may  seem 
to  have  contended  with  Nature."  It  stands  "  in  the  very 
heart  and  centre  of  the  pyramid,  equidistant  from  all  its 
sides,  and  almost  in  the  midst  between  the  basis  and  the  top. 
The  floor,  the  sides,  the  roof  of  it,  are  all  made  of  vast 
and  exquisite  "tables  of  Thebaick  marble."  By  Greaves's 
Thebaick  marble  is  to  be  understood  that  most  beautiful 
variety  of  granite  which  Linnaeus  distinguished  by  the 
epithet  of  durus  rubescens,  called  by  the  Italians5  Granito 
rosso,  composed   essentially  of  feldspar,  quartz,  and    mica. 

It 

(1)  Pyramidographia,  p.  90.     Lond.  \646. 

(2)  Descript.  of  the  East,  vol.  I.  p.  45.    Lond.  1743. 

(3)  Before  Christ,  720.  See  a  former  Note  in  this  Chapter.  It  should  be  said, 
however,  that  Shaw,  who  makes  this  remark,  (Trav.  p.  368,  Note  5.  Lond.  1757,) 
applies  it  to  the  Grecian,  and  not  to  Egyptian  artists.  There  are  Doric  pilasters,  of 
the  age  of  Augustus,  in  the  remains  of  Mcecenass  Villa  near  Rome ;  -and  the 
immense  capitals  discovered  among  the  ruins  of  a  temple  at  Girgenti  evidently 
belonged  to  pilasters  of  much  earlier  date. 

(4)  Pyramidographia,  p.  Q5. 

(5)  See  Forbes's  Travels,  p.  226.  Lond.  1776. 


PYRAMIDS    OF    DJIZA.  143 

It  is  often  called  Oriental  granite,  and  sometimes  Egyptian    v^^JI^ 
granite,  but  it  differs    in    no  respect   from  European  gra- 
nite,  except  that  the  red  feldspar  enters   more  largely  as 
a   constituent   into    the    mass    than    is    usual  in  the    gra- 
nite of  Europe6.      So    exquisitely  are  the   masses  of  this 
granite  fitted  to  each  other  upon  the  sides  of  this  cham- 
ber, that,  having  no    cement   between  them,    it   is  really 
impossible    to    force  the    blade    of    a    knife    within    the 
joints.     This  has  been  often  related  before  ;  but  we  actually 
tried  the  experiment,  and  found  it  to  be  true.     There  are 
only  six  ranges  of  stone  from  the  floor  to  the  roof,  which 
is  twenty  feet  high  ;    and  the   length  of   the  chamber  is 
about  twelve  yards.     It  is  also  about  six  yards  wide.     The 
roof  or  cieling   consists  only  of  nine  pieces,  of  stupendous 
size  and  length,  traversing  the  room  from  side  to  side,  and 
lying,   like  enormous  beams,    across  the  top. 

Near  the  western  side,  stands  the  Soros,  of  the  same  TheSoros. 
kind  of  granite  as  that  which  is  used  for  the  walls  of  the 
chamber,  and  as  exquisitely  polished.  It  is  distinguished 
by  no  difference  of  form  or  dimensions  from  the  common 
appearance  of  the  Soros,  as  it  is  often  seen  in  Turkish 
towns,  when  employed  by  the  inhabitants  to  supply 
the  place  of  a  cistern.  It  resembles,  as  Greaves  has 
remarked8,  "  two  cubes,  finely  set  together,  and  hollowed 
within  ;   being  cut  smooth  and  plain,"  without  sculpture  or 

engraving 

(6)  The  author  has  seen  granite   of  the  same  kind,    and  of    equal  beauty,    in 
fragments,  upon  the  shores  of  the  Hebrides  j  particularly  at  Icolmkill. 

(7)  See  Pyramidog.  p.  94. 

(8)  Ibid.  p.  96. 


tOffKf*   '•JfCTW:  JI,  "frT  Jp?  •?CW;' 


Mm       [H      P^ 


9 


144 


CHAP.  IV. 


Demolition  of 
the  Soros  at- 
tempted. 


PYRAMIDS    OF    DJIZA. 

engraving  of  any  kind.  Its  length  on  the  outside  is  seven 
feet  three  inches  and  a  half;  its  depth  three  feet  three 
inches  and  three  quarters;  and  it  is  the  same  in  breadth. 
Its  position  is  north  and  south. 

This    beautiful    relique    was    entire   when    our    troops 
were  landed  in  Egypt.      Even  the  French  had  refused   to 
violate    a    monument   considered    by    travellers    of   every 
age    and   nation  as    consecrated   by  its  antiquity ;     having 
withstood    the     ravages    of    time    above    three     thousand 
years,  and  all   the  chances   of  sacrilege    to  which  it  was 
exposed  during  that  period  from   wanton  indiscriminating 
barbarity.     It  is  therefore  painful  to  relate,  that  it  is  now 
no  longer  entire.    The  soldiers  and  sailors  of  our  army  and 
navy   having   had   frequent   access   to    the  interior   of  the 
pyramid,  carried  with  them  sledge-hammers,   to  break  off 
pieces,  as  curiosities  to  be  conveyed  to  England  ;  and  began, 
alas!   the  havoc  of  its  demolition1.     Had  it  not  been  for 
the  classical  taste,  and  the  laudable  interference,  of  Colonel 
now   General    Stewart,     then    commanding-officer  in    that 
district,  who  threatened  to  make  an  example  of  any  indivi- 
dual, whether  officer  or  private,  who  should  disgrace  his 
country  by  thus  waging  hostility  against  History  and  the  Arts, 
not   a  particle  of  the  So?*os  would  have  remained.     Yet,  as 
a  proof  of  the  difficulty  which  attended  this  worse  than 
Scythian  ravage,  the  persons  who  thus  left  behind  them  a 

sad 


(1)  During  the  same  week  in  which  this  Chapter  was  printing,  little  pieces  of 
granite  were  shewn  to  the  author,  as  "  bits  of  King  Pharaoh's  Tomb  "  which  were 
taken  from  this  sepulchre. 


PYRAMIDS    OF    DJIZA. 


143 


sad  memorial  of  the  British  name,  had  only  succeeded  in      chap,  iv. 
accomplishing  a  fracture  near  one  of  the  angles.     It  was 
thus    disfigured  when  we   arrived ;  and  every  traveller  of 
taste  will  join  in  reprobating  any  future  attempt  to  increase 
the  injury  it  has  so  lamentably  sustained. 

Having  quitted  this  Pyramid,  we  amused  ourselves  by 
a  cursory  s*urvey  of  the  rest;  concerning  which  we  have 
nothing  to  communicate  that  would  not  be  a  mere 
repetition  of  what  has  been  already  related  by  a  dozen 
other  writers.  We  then  descended  into  some  of  the 
smaller  sepulchres.  The  walls  within  these  were  adorned 
with  hieroglyphics.  In  some  instances,  we  noticed  the 
traces  of  antient  painting,  an  art  that  seems  to  have  been 
almost  co-eval  with  the  human  race.  The  most  remark- 
able instance  of  this  kind  was  discovered  by  the  author 
in  a  situation  where,  of  all  others,  it  was  least  expected, — 
upon  the  surface  of  the  Sphinx.  As  we  drew  near  to  The  sphinx. 
view  this  prodigious  colossus,  a  reddish  hue  was  discernible 
over  the  whole  mass,  quite  inconsistent  with  the  common 
colour  of  the  limestone  used  in  building  the  Pyramids,  and 
of  which  the  Sphinx  itself  is  formed.  This  induced  us  to 
examine  more  attentively  the  superficies  of  the  statue: 
and  having  succeeded  in  climbing  beneath  the  right  ear 
of  the  figure,  where  the  surface  had  never  been  broken, 
nor  in  any  degree  decomposed  by  the  action  of  the  atmo- 
sphere, we  found,  to  our  very  great  surprise,  that  the 
whole  had  once  been  painted  of  a  dingy  red  or  blood 
colour,  like  some  of  the  stuccoed  walls  of  the  houses  in  Pom- 
peii and  Herculaneum.     Upon  this  painted  surface  there  was 

vol.  in.  u  also 


Its  surface 
found  to  be 
painted. 


►7h7* 


!Wmmfm  tifflmsmmmmmn 


146 


CHAP.  IV. 


Discovery  of 
an  antient 
Inscription. 


PYRAMIDS    OF    DJIZA. 

also  an  Inscription;  but  so  concealed,  by  its  situation 
beneath  the  enormous  ear  of  the  Sphinx,  and  so  out  of  the 
reach  of  observers  viewing  the  statue  from  below,  that  no 
notice  has  yet  been  taken  of  it  by  any  preceding  traveller. 
As  to  the  age  of  this  inscription,  the  reader  must  determine 
for  himself.  The  two  first  lines  are  Coptic ;  the  rest  is 
Arabic.  The  characters  were  of  considerable  size,  and 
they  were  inscribed  in  black  paint  upon  the  red  surface 
of  the  statue.  The  author  bestowed  all  possible  care  and 
attention  in  making  the  following  copy  of  them,  as  a 
facsimile. 


H  4\ 

e-^  c 


Above 


PYRAMIDS  OF   DJ1ZA. 


147 


Above  these,  and  closer  under  the  ear,  were  written,  very      chap.iv. 
conspicuously,  these  curious  monograms, 


r — r^*^ 
a  s 

r — V 


Statues. 


probably  also  Arabic,  but  in  their  appearance  somewhat 
resembling  the  kind  of  writing  preserved  among  the 
Inscriptiones  Sinaicce,  as  published  by  Rircher  and  by 
Pococke1.  According  to  Pococke,  this  was  not  engraven, 
but  painted,  or  stained,  upon  the  rock  where  he  saw  it. 

Whatsoever  may  be   the  age  of  these  characters,    the    Custom  ot 

painting 

specimen  of  painting  exhibited  by  the  superficies  of  antieut 
the  stone  is  of  still  higher  antiquity;  not  merely 
because  the  inscription  appears  upon  the  painted  surface, 
but  from  the  resemblance  which  the  style  of  colouring 
bears  to  other  examples  which  may  be  mentioned. 
The  statues  of  the  Parthenon  at  Athens  were  originally 
painted  and  gilded2;   and   however   contrary    the    practice 

may 

(1)  See  Plate  LV.  Inscript.  86.  Descr.  of  the  East,  vol.  I.  p.  \4Q.  Lond.  1743.  "  The 
Grreeks,"  says  Pococke,  "  call  this  inscription  Qeov  ^dpaKra  ypdjxfxara,  "  The  words  of 
God  engraved."  The  same  inscription  may  be  found  also  in  Kircher's  Prodromus  Copticus. 

(2)  "  Avant  que  ce  marbre  precieux  eut  ete  nettoye,  il  conservoit  des  traces,  non- 
■eulement  de  la  couleur  encaustique  dont,  suivant  l'usage  des  Grecs,  on  enduisoit  la 
culpture,  rmis  encore  d'une  veritable  peinture  dont  quelques  parties  etoient  couvertes ; 
isage  qui  tient  aux  procedes  de  l'enfance  de  l'art,  dont  il  ne  s'etoit  pas  encore  debar- 
asse.  Le  fond  etoit  bleu;  les  cheveux  et  quelques  parties  du  corps  etoient  dore's." 
Voy.  Monumens  Antiques  inedits.  Description  d'un  Bas-Relief  du  Parthenon,  par 
4.  L.  Millin.  Traces  of  gilding  are  still  to  be  perceived  on  the  hair  of  the  Venus  de 
Medicis. 


- 


148 


CHAP.   IV. 


PYRAMIDS    OF     DJIZA. 

may  seem  to  our  notions  of  taste,  a  custom  of  painting 
statues,  and  of  gilding  the  hair  of  images  representing 
celestial  beings,  has  continued,  without  intermission, 
from  the  age  of  Pericles  and  the  golden-haired  Apollos  of 
Greece,  down  to  the  aera  of  those  Italian  artists  who 
filled  our  old  English  churches  with  alabaster  monuments, 
where,  besides  the  painted  effigies  of  our  ancestors1,  may  be 
seen  the  figures  of  angels,  with  gilded  wings  and  gilded  hair. 
But  these  are  subjects  which,  to  a  writer  fond  of  pursuing 
the  mazes  of  antient  history,  offer  such  alluring  devi- 
ations from  the  main  route,  as  might  lead  both  him  and 
his  reader  into  almost  endless  digression:  the  vestiges  of 
antient  art,  and  the  remains  of  antient  customs,  visible  in 
our  daily  walks  and  in  every  haunt  of  society,  so  frequently 
suggest  themselves  to  philosophical  reflection,  that,  if  due 
attention  were  paid  to  them,  whole  volumes  would  be 
inadequate  to  the  dissertations  that  might  be  written.  A  few 
observations  only,  selected  from  the  pages  of  an  author  who 
has  expressed  a  similar  observation  ;  and  who,  most  learnedly 
illustrating  the  arts  of  painting  and  writing  among  the 
antient  Egyptians2,  has  concentrated  within  a  small  compass 
whatever  might  have  been  added  upon  these  topics ;   may 

terminate  this  chapter. 

"The 


(1)  A  splendid  monument  of  this  kind,  erected  over  the  bodies  of  Lord  Surrey  the 

Poet  and  his  family,  may  be  seen  in  Framlingham  Church,  Suffolk.     Shakspeare  has 

finely  availed  himself  of  this  practice  in  the  image  of  Hermione  {Winter  s  Tale)  : 

"  Paul.  O  patience! 

The  statue  is  but  newly  fixt,  the  colour 's 
Not  dry. .*' 

(2)  Philosophical  Dissertation  on  the  Egyptians  and  Chinese,  by  De  Pauw,  vol.  I. 
pp.  187,  188,  189,  190,  202,  203.     Lond.  1795. 


PYRAMIDS   OF    DJIZA. 


149 


"  The  number  of  things  to  be  spoken  of  here  will  not  chap.  iv. 
permit  us  to  treat  of  each  in  particular  ;  for  it  is  necessary  Extract  from 
sometimes  to  neglect  details,  and  confine  ourselves  to 
essentials  only,  that  a  chapter  may  contain  what  might 
otherwise  require  a  whole  book.  The  loss  of  the  greater  part 
of  the  history  of  the  Arts  in  Egypt  is  a  circumstance  truly 
lamentable.  All  the  wrecks  now  remaining  form  only  a 
mutilated  body.  *     *     * 

"  Pliny  has  fallen  into  an  unpardonable  contradiction, 
when  he  maintains  that  the  art  of  writing  had  been  known 
from  all  eternity3,  and  denies,  at  the  same  time,  that  the 
Egyptians  practised  painting  during  six  thousand  years. 
Plato  finds  no  difficulty  in  believing  it  to  have  been  known 
to  them  for  ten  thousand  years4.  When  Plato,  in  his 
Dialogues,  makes  an  anonymous  interlocutor  assert  that  ten 
thousand  years  had  elapsed  since  some  pictures  then  seen  in 
Egypt  were  painted,  we  should  observe,  that  colours, 
applied  in  all  their  natural  purity  on  the  partitions  of  the 
Theban  grottoes,  might  really  be  capable  of  supporting  so 
long  a  period.  The  fewer  mixtures  are  admitted  in  colours 
termed  native,  and  appertaining  neither  to  the  vegetable  nor 
animal  kingdom,  the  less  they  are  subject  to  change,  where 
the  rays  of  the  sun  do  not  penetrate.     This  was  the  case  in 

the 


(3)  De  Pauw  is  evidently  here  aiming  at  the  introduction  of  his  own  sceptical  notions 
with  respect  to  chronology.  We  are  to  understand  Pliny's  use  of  the  word  eternity  only 
as  referring  to  a  period  antecedent  to  existing  records,  or  those  of  the  avrd^dovec :  an 
observation  necessary  to  rescue  many  of  the  antient  philosophers  from  the  absurd 
nations  imputed  to  them. 

(4)  De  Legibus,  Dial.  2. 


S-Vi'vtf 


PYRAMIDS    OF    DJIZA. 
» 

the  excavations  we  have  cited,  where  many  tints  could  be 
distinguisned,  of  a  beautiful  red,  and  of  a  particular  blue. 
Colours  have  remained  until  our  day  in  some  royal  sepul- 
chres of  Biban-el-Moluk,  which,  in  my  opinion,  have  been 
constructed  before  the  Pyramids.  The  walls  of  great  edi- 
fices, when  once  coloured,  remained  so  for  many  centuries ; 
or  rather,  for  ever.  The  Egyptians  do  not  seem  to  have 
used  any  particular  procedure  for  making  the  colours  and 
gilding  adhere  to  the  wall  or  the  bare  rock,  as  some  people 
have  supposed.  Count  Caylus  says,  that  the  manner  of 
laying  them  on,  practised  by  the  Egyptians,  was  not  fa- 
vourable '.  Like  all  the  Eastern  artists,  they  employed  only 
virgin  tints,  and  coloured  rather  than  painted." 

(l)  Antiq.  Egypt.  Etrusc.  &c.  vol.1. 


uu&Od  .  I  g  of  Salens* 

CHAP.    V. 


PYRAMIDS   OF  SACCARA. 


Illustrious  Travellers  who  have  visited  the  Pyramids — Audience  of  the 
Vizier  —  Voyage  to  Saccdra  —  Nocturnal  Festivities  of  an  Arab 
Village  —  Appearance  of  the  Country  to  the  South  of  Cairo  -:- 
Indigofera  —  Situation  of  Memphis  —  Tumulus  seen  among  the 
Pyramids  —  The  most  antient  Sepulchres  not  pyramidal — Village 
of  Saccdra — Difference  between  the  Pyramids  of  Saccdra  and  those  of 
Djiza — Descent  into  the  Catacombs — Notion  founded  on  a  passage  in 
Herodotus — Evidence  for  the  Horizontal  Position  of  the  Bodies  — 
Difficulty  of  ascertaining  the  truth — Repository  of  embalmed  Birds — 
Cause  of  their  Interment — Hieroglyphic  Tablet — Antelope — Anti- 
quities found  by  the  Arabs — Horses  of  the  Country — Theft  detected — 
History  of  the  Pyramids — Manner  of  the  Investigation — Age  of  those 
Structures — Their  Sepulchral  Origin — Possible  Cause  of  the  Violation 
of  the  principal  Pyramid  —  Historical  Evidence  concerning  the 
building  of  Pyramids  in  Egypt — Further  view  of  the  subject- — 
Hermetic  Stela: — Mexican  Pyramids. 

It  is  impossible  to  leave  the  Pyramids  of  Djiza  without 
some  notice  of  the   long   list   of  Philosophers,    Marshals, 

Emperors, 


chap.  v. 


;>3M~i:      -vi;^ 


15c2 


CHAP.  V. 


Illustrious 
Travellers  who 
have  visited 
the  Pyramids. 


THE    PYRAMIDS. 

Emperors,   and  Princes,  who,  in  so  many  ages,   have  been 
brought   to    view   the    most   wonderful    of  the    works    of 
man.     There    has    not   been   a     conqueror    pre-eminently 
distinguished   in   the  history  of  the  world,    from  the  days 
of  Cambyses  down    to  the  invasion  of  Napoleon   Buona- 
parte,  who  withheld  the    tribute   of  his   admiration   from 
the  Genius  of  the  place.     The  vanity  of  Alexander  the  Great 
was   so   piqued   by   the  overwhelming  impression  of  their 
majesty,  that  nothing  less  than  being  ranked  among  the  Gods 
of  Egypt  could  elevate  him  sufficiently  above  the  pride  of  the 
monarchs  by  whom  they  were  erected.     When  Germanicus 
had   subdued  the  Egyptian  empire,  and  seated  "a  Roman 
praefect  upon  the  splendid  throne  of  the  Ptolemies,"  being  un- 
mindful of  repose  or  of  triumph,  the  antiquities  of  the  country 
engaged  all  his  attention1.   The  humblest  pilgrim,  pacing  the 
Libyan  sands  around  them,  while  he  is  conscious  that  he  walks 
in  the  footsteps  of  so    many  mighty  and  renowned  men, 
imagines  himself  to  be  for  an  instant  admitted  into  their 
illustrious   conclave.     Persian   satraps,   Macedonian   heroes, 
Grecian  bards,  sages,  and  historians,  Roman  warriors,  all  of 
every  age,  nation,  and  religion,  have  participated,  in  common 
with  him,  the  same  feelings,  and  have  trodden  the  same 
ground.     Every  spot  that  he  beholds,  every  stone  on  which 
he  rests  his  weary  limbs,  have  witnessed  the  coming  of  men 
who  were  the  fathers  of  law,  of  literature,    and  of  the  arts. 

Orpheus, 


(1)  "  Caeterum  Germanicus  aliis  quoque  miraculis  intenditanimum,  quorum  praecipua 
fuere  Memnonis  saxea  effigies,  ubi  radiis  solis  icta  est,  vocalem  sonum  reddens :  dis- 
jectasque  inter  et  vix  pervias  arenas,  instar  montium  eductae  Pyramides,  certamine  et 
opibus  regum."     Tacit.  Annal.  lib.  ii.  c.  6.  torn.  I.  p.  308.    Par.  1682. 


THE    PYRAMIDS. 

Orpheus,  Musaeus,  Homer,  Lycurgus,  Solon,  Pythagoras, 
Plato,.  Plutarch,  contributed  by  their  presence  to  the  dig- 
nity of  the  place.  Desolate  and  melancholy  as  the  scene 
appears,  no  traveller  leaves  it  without  regret,  and  many 
a  retrospect  of  objects  which  call  to  his  mind  such  nume- 
rous examples  of  wisdom,  of  bravery,  and  of  virtue. 
To  this  regret,  on  our  part,  was  added  the  consciousness 
that  we  had  now  reached  the  utmost  limit  of  our  travels  in 
this  interesting  country ;  for,  with  the  exception  of  a  visit 
to  the  Pyramids  of  Saccdra,  our  journey  towards  the  south 
was  here  terminated.  We  had  now  traversed  about  forty 
degrees  of  latitude,  and  principally  by  land ;  through  coun- 
tries, however,  in  which  little  of  the  refinements  of  civilized 
nations  had  ever  been  experienced :  and  we  returned  from 
Dj'iza  to  Cairo,  to  conclude  our  observations  in  Egypt, 
previous  to  the  rest  of  our  travels  in  Greece. 

The  next  day  we  all  dined  with  Signor  Rosetti,  who  sent 
a  messenger  to  the  Sheik  of  the  Bedouin  Arabs  at  Saccara, 
stating  that  we  were  desirous  of  seeing  the  Pyramids 
and  Catacombs  of  that  place,  and  begging  to  be  informed 
on  what  day  we  might  find  guides  and  horses  ready  for  us. 
On  the  following  evening,  August  the  twenty-fifth,  his 
answer  arrived.  The  Sheik  sent  two  men  of  his  tribe,  one 
to  conduct  us,  and  the  other  to  return  with  our  message, 
fixing  the  time  for  our  visit.  The  Arab  who  was  to  be  our 
conductor  ran  away,  but  we  procured  another  who  happened 
to  be  then  in  Cairo.  In  all  the  great  houses  of  this  city, 
the  earthen  vessels  for  containing  water  are  perfumed.  This 
becomes  quite  a  ceremony.     They  first  put  into  the  vase 

vol.  in.  x  some 


153 

CHAP.  V. 


154 

CHAP.  V. 


Audience  of 
the  Vizier. 


GRAND    CAIRO. 

some  mastic,  and  a  substance  called  MaJcourgourivic,  which  is 
brought  from  Upper  Egypt.  The  name  is  written  as  it  was 
pronounced  ;  but  perhaps  it  consists  of  more  than  one  word. 
They  then  clarify  the  water  with  almond-paste,  cool  it  by 
the  evaporating  jars,  and  thus  it  is  made  fit  for  drinking. 

On  the  twenty- seventh  we  purchased  every  variety  of 
seed  which  we  could  obtain  from  the  gardeners  of  Cairo. 
After  this  we  visited  a  manufactory  of  sabres,  wishing  to 
learn  the  art  by  which  the  Mamaluke  blades  are  ornamented 
with  a  sort  of  clouded  work.  Sabres  thus  enamelled  are  said 
to  be  damascened,  from  the  city  of  Damascus,  where  this 
w  ork  is  carried  on  in  the  greatest  perfection.  We  saw  the 
artificers  use  a  red  liquid  for  this  purpose,  which  appeared 
to  be  some  powerful  acid,  from  the  caution  they  observed 
in  touching  it;   but  they  would  not  allow  us  to  examine  it. 

We  then  paid  our  long-promised  visit  to  the  Vizier. 
This  venerable  man  had  lived  so  much  with  our  artillery 
officers,  that  he  entertained  very  sincere  regard  for  them. 
We  made  our  appearance  before  him  in  company  with  Colonel 
Holloway  and  Major  Hope.  He  welcomed  these  officers  as 
if  they  had  been  his  brothers.  He  had  lost  an  eye  when  he 
was  young,  in  playing  the  game  of  Djirit.  He  regaled  us 
in  the  usual  Oriental  style;  and  conversed  -cheerfully 
upon  the  subject  of  his  marches  with  our  countrymen  in 
the  Desert ;  also  of  his  own  exploits  in  battle.  He  was 
magnificently  dressed,  in  robes  of  rich  silk;  and  wore, 
instead  of  a  turban,  a  high  purple  cap;  such  as  the 
Grand  Signior  puts  on  upon  public  occasions.  The  pipe 
which  he  used  for  smoking  was  valued  at  seven   thousand 

piastres; 


PYRAMIDS    OF    SACCARA. 


155 


e  to 
Saecara. 


piastres;  and  his  poignard  was  ornamented  with  the  largest 
emerald  we  had  ever  seen,  being  equal  in  size  to  a  walnut. 
He  resided  in  a  new  and  magnificent  palace,  the  windows 
of  which  were  ornamented  with  beautifully  stained  glass. 
His  couch  consisted  of  ebony,  inlaid  with  mother  of 
pearl ;  and  a  magnificent  mirror,  covered  with  a  gauze 
net,  decorated  his  apartment.  His  attendants  were  more 
numerous  than  is  usual  with  other  Pashas;  but,  in  his 
manners,  there  was  neither  the  pride,  the  stateliness,  nor 
the  affected  pomp,  which  we  had  remarked  in  the  Viceroys 
of  Cyprus,  of  Jerusalem,  and  of  other  places. 

In  the  evening,  at  six  o'clock,  we  again  set  out  in  our  \oyag 
djerm,  upon  an  excursion  to  the  Pyramids  of  Saccdrd, 
accompanied  by  Mr.  Hammer  and  Dr.  Whitman '.  *We 
arrived,  about  ten  o'clock,  in  the  village  of  Sheik  Atman; 
and    were    much    gratified    upon    our    landing   by  a   fine    Nocturnal 

,.n  .  ,   .    ,  ,  .  r_  i     *        ,  .    .  Festivities  of 

moon-light  scene,  in  which  two  beautiful  Arab  girls  were 
performing  a  dance  called  Rack,  beneath  a  grove  of  palm- 
trees,  to  the  music  of  a  tambour  and  a  pipe  made  of  two 
reeds  which  the  Arabs  call  Zumana.  A  party  of  Arabs 
was  seated  in  a  circle  round  them,  as  spectators.  The 
rest  of  the  inhabitants  were  sleeping,  either  in  the  open 
air  beneath  the  trees,  or  collected  in  tents,  pell-mell, 
among  asses,  mules,  and  dogs.  Some  of  their  children 
were  running  up  and  down  the  palm-trees,  as  if  these 
had  been  so  many  ladders,  to  gather  bunches  of  ripe  dates 
for  the  circle  round  the  dancers.  The  broad  surface  of 
the  Nile  reflected  the  moon's  image,  and  conduced  to  the 

perfection 


an  Arab 
Village. 


(l)  This  gentleman  has  since  published  an  Account  of  his  Travels  in  Turkey. 


■■^■■H 


156 


CHAP.  V. 


Appearance  of 
the  Country 
to  the  South 
of  Cairo. 


PYRAMIDS    OF    SACCARA. 

perfection    of  this    most    beautiful    spectacle.     The  Arabs 
suffered  us  to  walk  among  them,  without  being  interrupted 
in  their  amusement  or  their  repose.     Some  of  them  brought 
us  fruit,  and  offered  other  refreshments.     The  women  were 
all  prostitutes,  and  almost  naked :  they  wore  coral  necklaces, 
and  large  ivory  bracelets.     An  Arab  joined  the  dance,  which 
we  had  never  seen  any  of  the  men  do  before :  he  began 
by  exhibiting  a  variety  of  attitudes  with  his  drawn  sabre  ; 
and  then  proceeded  to  express  the  tenderness  of  his  passion 
for  the  female  dancer  in  a  very  ludicrous  manner,  squeaking 
and  howling  like   some   wild  animal.     One   of  the   Sheiks 
who  had  received  us  upon  our  arrival  went  to  a  neighbouring 
village,    to   procure    some    additional   horses  for   the    next 
morning.     The  music  and  the  dancing  continued  during  the 
whole  of  the  night.    Our  boat  was  anchored  opposite  to  the 
farthest  pyramid,  towards  the  south ;  Cairo  being  still  in  sight. 
In    the    morning    of    August    the    twenty-eighth,    at 
five    o'clock,     as    the   sun    was    rising    in    great    splendor 
behind    the    mountainous   ridge    of    Mokatam,     we    went 
round    the     village,     which     consisted     entirely     of    mud 
huts.     Near  to  these  were  several  gardens,    in  which  we 
gathered  radishes  for  our  breakfast.     We  noticed  also  some 
dwarf  varieties    of   the    Palm,  which    we   had   not  before 
observed,    growing  in   clusters  among  the   taller  trees,  and 
bearing  abundance  of  fruit,  but  hanging  so  low  that  it  might 
be  reached  by  the  hand.     One  variety  was  called  Balack 
Mahadt:  the  average  height  of  this  did  not  exceed  ten   or 
twelve  feet.    Another  bore  the  name  of  Balack  Seaivee,  which 

grew 


(l)  Phoenix  dactylifera. 


PYRAMIDS    OF    SACCARA. 


157 


CHAP.  V. 


grew  somewhat  taller.  A  female  of  uncommon  beauty  made 
tar  appearance  out  of  one  of  the  huts,  without  any  veil ; 
aid,  to  add  to  the  rarity  of  such  a  sight,  her  complexion 
was  fair ;  much  more  resembling  that  of  a  Circassian  than 
pf  an  Egyptian  woman.  The  quantity  of  pigeons  hovering 
a^out  these  villages  is  quite  astonishing.  We  also  saw 
fights  of  larks  of  a  very  large  size.  All  the  country,  as1 
far  as  the  eye  extended,  was  so  covered  with  water,  that 
no  particular  course  of  the  Nile  could  be  perceived  :  it  was 
more  like  a  sea  than  a  river.  The  Pyramids  of  Saccdra 
appeared  in  the  distant  view,  beyond  a  country  rich  in  plan- 
tations and  full  of  villages :  they  are  less  regular  in  their 
structure  than  those  of  Dj'iza.  The  Arabian  side  of  the 
Nile  is  not  so  fertile  as  the  Libyan.  Towards  Mokatam, 
the  country  below  the  heights  seemed  to  be  quite  a  desert. 
Mount  Mokatam  is  itself  variously  perforated  by  cavernous 
excavations :  these  were  either  the  habitations  or  the 
sepulchres  of  the  earliest  settlers  upon  the  eastern  side 
of  the  Nile.  At  a  neighbouring  village,  called  Etterfile, 
two  gun-boats,  and  one  smaller  vessel,  were  now  building. 
Near  this  village  grew  a  great  quantity  of  Indigofera,  which  ind,°ojera 
the  Arabs  call  Nile.  Under  a  similar  appellation  it  was 
mentioned,  at  the  close  of  the  sixteenth  century,  as  an 
object  of  inquiry  by  Richard  Hakluyt";  for  at  that  time  it 
was  not  known  in  England  what  plant  produced  the  Indigo3. 
Instructions  were  therefore  given,  "  to  know  if  Anile,  that 
coloureth   blew,    be    a  natural   commodity ;    and,    if  it   be  - 

compounded 


(2)  A.  D.  1582. 

(3)  See  Martyn's  edition  of  Miller's  Dictionary.     Art.  Iniigofera. 


vw»w  "W* ■.*: 


^«S&      ^^H  • 


158 


CHAP.  V. 


Situation  of 
Memphis. 


PYRAMIDS    OF    SACCARA. 

compounded  of  an  herbe,  to  send  the  seed  or  root,  with 
the  order  of  sowing."  It  is  remarkable  that  Nil,  or  Anil, 
is  the  American  name  of  the  Ind'igo  plant.  The  Portu- 
guese have  adopted  their  Anil,  or  Andeira,  from  the 
American.  In  Chinese  it  is  called  Tien  Laam,  which 
signifies  sky  blue.  The  Arabs,  in  Egypt,  sow  the  seed  of  this 
plant  only  once  in  seven  years  ;  and  they  obtain  two  crops 
from  it  in  each  year.  They  cut  it  green,  when  about  two 
feet  in  height:  (they  were  cutting  some  at  this  time:)  it  is 
then  put  into  boiling  water,  and  left  in  jars  for  several  days  : 
after  this  it  acquires  the  blue  colour.  The  French  had  taught 
them  to  boil  the  plant,  and  use  the  scum  for  a  dye. 

We  saw  two  Arabs  crossing  the  Nile,  where  it  was  at  least 
half  a  mile  wide,  by  means  of  empty  gourds,  which  they  used 
instead  of  bladders,  with  their  clothes  fastened  upon  their 
heads.  It  was  nine  o'clock  before  we  steered  our  djerrn  into 
a  canal  leading  towards  Saccara.  We  passed  the  village  which 
Savary  believed  to  denote  the  situation  of  antient  Memphis, 
and  concurred  with  him  in  his  locality  of  the  city1.  His 
description  of  the  place,  particularly  of  the  Causeway  and 
the  Lake,  is  very  accurate.  But  the  village  is  not:  called 
Menf,  or  Menph,  as  he  pretends,  but  Memhee  a  Dashoo*. 
The  Lake  at  this  time  was,  in  great  measure,  become  a  part 
of  the  general  inundation.  We  sailed  the  whole  way  to  the 
Pyramids  of  Saccara,  with  the  exception  of  about  half  a 
mile,  which  it  was  necessary  to  ride  over,  to  the  Mummy  Pits. 

Just 


(1)  Pococke  also  places  it  near  the  same  spot. 

(2)  This  seems  to  have  been  Pococke's  "  El  Menshieh  Dashour."    See  Descr.  of  the 
East,  vol.  I.  p.  4Q, 


PYRAMIDS  OF  SACCARA.  159 

Just  beyond  Menshee  a  Dashoo  we  were  much   struck      CHAP-  v- 
by  the  appearance  of  a  Tumulus,  (standing  to  the  south  of  a    ?w&»I^a 
large   graduated   pyramid,)   which,  instead  of  being  pyra-    Sv 
midal,    exhibits    a    less    artificial    and    therefore   a    more 
antient  form  of  sepulchre,   than   any  of  the  Pyramids.     It 
is    a  simple   hemispherical  mound.      We   saw  afterwards 
others  of  the  same  kind. 


Comparing  these  appearances  with  that  regularity  of  struc-  The  most 
ture  which  characterizes  the  Pyramids  of  Djiza,  and  also  with  p"1'^5  »°t 
another  style  of  architecture  observable  at  Saccara,  where  a 
transition  may  be  discerned  between  one  and  the  other,  (the 
curved  outline  not  having  wholly  disappeared,  nor  the  recti- 
linear form  prevailing  altogether,)  we  may  establish  a  rule 
for  ascertaining  different  degrees  of  antiquity  throughout 

the 


^■■■■■1  $?gK 


160 


CHAP.  V. 


PYRAMIDS    OF    SACCARA. 

the  whole  series  of  these  monuments.  The  most  antient  lie 
towards  the  south.  Almost  all  the  buildings  of  Saccara,  of 
whatever  size  or  shape,  whether  hemispheroidal  or  pyramidal, 
seem  to  be  older  than  those  of  Djiza:  and,  as  we  proceed  in 
surveying  them  from  the  south  towards  the  north,  ending 
with  the  principal  pyramid  of  Djiza,  we  pass  from  the 
primeval  mound,  through  all  its  modifications,  until  we 
arrive  at  the  most  artificial  pyramidal  heap  ;  something  after 
the  manner  represented  by  the  following  sketch. 


Primeval  Mound. 


Pyramid  of  Sacc&ra. 


Pyramid  of  Djiza. 


The  same  rule  will  apply  to  similar  monuments  in  America, 
which  have  been  held  sacred  among  the  inhabitants  of  that 
great  continent  from  the  earliest  periods  of  their  history. 
In  fact,  the  Scythian  Mound,  the  Tartar  Tepe,  the  Teutonic 
Barroiv,  and  the  Celtic  Cairn,  do  all  of  them  preserve  a  mo- 
numental form  which  was  more  antiently  in  use  than  that  of 

a  Pyramid, 


161 


CHAP.  V. 


PYRAMIDS    OF    SACCARA. 

a  Pyramid,  because  it  is  less  artificial ;  and  a  proof  of  its 
alleged  antiquity  may  be  deduced  from  the  mere  cir- 
cumstance of  its  association  with  the  Pyramids  of  Egypt, 
even  if  the  testimony  of  Herodotus  were  less  explicit 
as  to  the  remote  period  of  its  existence  among  northern 
nations'. 

We  came  to  the"Wretched  village  of  Saccdra.  Near  to  this  village  of 
place,  towards  the  south,  there  is  an  antient  causeway,  com- 
posed of  stones  twelve  yards  wide,  leading  up  the  short  ascent 
to  the  plain  on  which  the  Pyramids  stand.  Several  of  the 
Arabs  left  their  huts  to  accompany  us.  When  we  reached 
the  principal  cluster  of  them,  which  is  behind  the  village 
towards  the  west,  we  were  conducted  to  the  mouth  of  one  of 
the  Catacombs ;  and  prepared  for  a  descent,  as  into  the 
mouth  of  a  well,  by  means  of  a  rope-ladder  which  we  had 
brought  with  us  for  that  purpose.  The  sandy  surface  of 
the  soil  was  covered  with  a  quantity  of  broken  vessels  of 
terra  cotta,  pieces  of  human  bones,  sculls,  bits  of  antient 
glass,  and  heaps  of  ruins. 

These  Pyramids  appear  to  be  a  continuation  of  the  same 
great  ccemetery  to  which  those  of  Djiza  also  belonged.  They 
extend  four  or  five  miles,  both  to  the  north  and  to  the 
south   of   the   village    of    Saccara.      Some    of    them    are     Difference 

})tit w ecu  the 

rounded  at  the  top,  and,  as  it  was  observed  by  Pococke  *,     Pyramids  of 

Saccara  and 

"  do   not  look  like  pyramids,  but  more  like  hillocks  cased    those  of  Djiza. 
with  stone."    One  of  these  is  graduated,  like  the  principal 

pyramid 


(1)  See  the   account  given  by  Herodotus  of  the  Scythian  mode  of    sepulture, 
Melpomene,  :s7l- 

(2)  Descr.  of  the  East,  vol.  I.  p.  50. 

VOL.  III.  Y 


vm> 


162 


CHAP.  V. 


Descent  into 
the  Cata- 
combs. 


PYRAMIDS    OF    SACCARA. 

pyramid  of  Dj'iza ;  but  with  this  difference,  that  the  gra- 
dations here  are  much  larger,  although  the  pyramid  be 
smaller.  It  consists  only  of  six  tiers  or  ranges  of  stone  ;  the 
pyramid  itself  being  an  hundred  and  fifty  feet  in  height'. 
The  ranges  or  steps  are  twenty- five  feet  high,  and  eleven 
feet  wide.  The  rest  of  these  structures  are  so  fully  and 
accurately  described  by  Pococke,  that  little  will  be  added 
here  to  his  description  of  them.  There  is  one,  built  also 
with  steps,  which  he  believed  to  be  as  large  as  the  prin- 
cipal pyramid  of  Dj'iza.  The  works  at  Sacca'ra,  inde- 
pendently of  the  different  forms  which  characterize  them, 
do  all  appear  to  be  older  than  those  of  Dj'iza ;  the  buildings 
being  more  decayed,  and  the  stones  crumbling,  as  if  they 
were  decomposed  by  longer  exposure  to  the  action  of  the 
atmosphere.  Four  miles  to  the  south  of  Saccara  stands 
a  pyramid  built  of  unburned  bricks.  This  is  in  a  very 
mouldering  state.  The  bricks  contain  shells,  gravel,  and 
chopped  straw:  they  are  of  the  same  nature  as  the  un- 
burned bricks  in  modern  use  in  Egypt.  Pococke  concl tided, 
from  its  present  appearance,  that  this  pyramid  was  built  with 
five  gradations  only2.  It  is  of  the  same  height  as  the  other 
graduated  pyramid  of  six  degrees. 

Our  rope-ladder  was  not  more  than  fifteen  feet  in 
length,  and  yet,  when  placed  in  the  mouth  of  a  catacomb 
near  the  graduated  pyramid,  we  found  it  reach  low  enough  to 
enable  us  to  descend  into  the  first  row  of  chambers.  We 
entered  a  room  containing  scattered  bones  and  fragments 

of 


(1)  Descr.  of  the  East,  vol.  II.  p.  50. 


(2)  Ibid.  p.  53. 


PYRAMIDS    OF    SACCARA. 


163 


of  broken  mummies:  these,  when  entire,  had  evidently 
been  placed  horizontally,  upon  a  sort  of  shelf  or  tier  of 
st^ne,  about  breast  high,  formed  in  the  natural  rock,  and 
extended  the  whole  length  of  this  subterraneous  apart- 
ment. Beyond  the  first  chamber  were  others  on  the  same 
level,  exhibiting  similar  remains;  and  below  these  was 
a  series,  extending,  in  like  manner,  beneath  the  upper 
range.  The  smell  in  these  catacombs  was  so  exceedingly 
offensive,  that  it  speedily  drove  us  up  again*;  although  we 
could  not  explain  the  cause,  for  it  seemed  very  improbable 
that  it  could  originate  in  embalmed  bodies  deposited  there 
so  many  ages  before.  We  saw  enough,  however,  to  be 
convinced  that  an  erroneous  notion  has  been  derived  from 
a  passage  in  Herodotus  concerning  the  mode  of  placing 
mummies  in  these  repositories*.  It  was  impossible  that  the 
dead  could  have  been  placed  upright  upon  their  feet,  for 
there  was  not  sufficient  space  between  the  roof  of  the 
cavern  and  the  place  where  the  bodies  were  laid.  From  a 
former  view  of  the  Soros  in  the  Dj'fza  pyramid,  and  also  from 
the  appearance  here,  it  became  evident  that  the  position  of 
the  corpses  in  Egyptian  sepulchres  was  not  vertical,  but 
horizontal.  This  may  be  one  of  those  instances  mentioned 
by  Pauw 3,  in  which  Herodotus  (if  the  common  notion  of  his 
meaning  be  correct)  was  deceived  by  his  interpreters ;  not 

having 


chap.  v. 


Evidence  for 
the  Horizon- 
tal Position  of 
the  Bodies. 


(2)  Kat  k-arak-Xf/tffavrcc  ovru,  6t)<ravpi£ouffi  iy  oiKtjfiarc  drjKaiy,  iffrdvrst  opQov 
irooc  to~i\ov.  "  Inclusumque  ita,  reponunt  in  conclavi  loculis  talibus  dicato,  statuentes 
rectum  ad  parietem."  Herodot.  Hist.  lib.  ii.  c.  86.  p.  143.  Ed.  Valcken.  et  Weaseling 
Amst.  1763. 

(3)  Philos.  Diss,  on  the  Egyptians  and  Chinese,  vol.  II.  p.  43.    Lond.  1795. 


mmmm-: 


Wxsffia^aja^ 


-  ■     ■  -  •  ■ 


164 


CHAP.  V. 


PYRAMIDS    OF    SACCARA. 

having  himself  examined  the  interior  of  the  sepulchral  repo- 
sitories of  the  country.  However,  any  doubt  of  this  kind,  as 
to  the  accuracy  of  an  antient  historian,  should  never  be  raised 
without  the  utmost  caution ' ;  and  nothing  but  the  most 
positive  evidence,  derived  from  actual  observation,  has  in- 
troduced one  here.  The  testimony  now  given  is,  however, 
confirmed  by  many  other  writers.  Kircher  has  given  an 
engraved  representation,  made  from  a  view  of  the  Mummy 
Crypts,  by  Burattinus ;  delineated,  as  he  says,  with  the  ut- 
most accuracy2,  in  which  the  bodies  are  all  represented 
cumbent,  with  their  faces  upwards.  Denon's  description 
of  the  Cryptce  to  the  north-east  of  Thebes  is  of  the 
same  nature3.  "  At  the  bottom  of  the  galleries,  the 
sarcophagi  stood  insulated,  of  a  single  block  of  gra- 
nite each,  of  twelve  feet  in  length  and  eight  in  width, 
rounded  at  one  end,  squared  at  the  other,  like  that  of  St. 
Athanasius,  in  Alexandria."  And  again,  in  his  long  and 
difficult  search  to  discover  "  the  manner  in  which  a  mummy 
was  placed  in  its  sepulchre,' '  having  ventured  into  cryptce 
where  the  bodies  had  never  been  disturbed,  he  found4  them 
"  placed  upon  the  ground,  and  allowed  as  much  space  as 
could  contain  them  in  regular  order."  Pococke,  describing 
the  Catacombs  of  Saccara,  speaks  of  H  benches  about  two 
feet  above  the  passages,"  on  which  "  he  supposes5  they  laid 

the 


(1)  See  Note  1,  p.  166. 

(2)  Vid.  CEdip.  ./Egypt,   syntagma  xiii.  c.  4.  torn.  III.  p.  400.    Rom.  1654. 

(3)  Denon.  Trav.  in  Egypt,  vol.  II.  p.  174,    Lond.  1803. 

(4)  Ibid.  p.  226. 

(5)  Descr.  of  the  East,  vol.  I.  p.  54.   Lond.  1743. 


PYRAMIDS    OF    SACCARA. 

the  mummies ;"  but,  being  desirous  of  adopting  even  these 
appearances  to  a  notion  of  their  upright  posture,  he  adds 6, 
"  probably  the  inferior  persons  were  piled  one  upon  an- 
other, and  the  heads  of  the  family  set  upright  in  the  niches." 
The  suggestion  is  borrowed  from  Maillet,  who  mentions 
"  several  niches,"  wherein  the  bodies  "  des  maitres  de  la 
famille"  were  placed7.  All  this  is  very  easily  said;  and  it 
is  all  without  proof.  The  fact  is,  that  no  traveller,  as  far 
as  we  can  learn,  ever  did  succeed  in  observing  the  position 
of  a  mummy  within  its  crypt''.  The  Arabs,  if  they  can 
avoid  it,  will  suffer  no  one  to  behold  what  the  French9  writers 
call  a  virgin  mummy.  Denon  says10,  <c  It  was  a  particular 
ivlnich   they  concealed  with   the  utmost  obstinacy"       Maillet 

mentions 


(6)  Descr.  of  the  East,  vol.  I.  p.  54.    Lond.  1743. 

(7)  Descr.  de  l'Egypte,  torn.  II.  p.  21.  A  la  Haye,  1740. 

(8)  If  any  traveller  could  have  succeeded  in  making  observation  to  this  effect,  it 
would  have  been  Mr.  W.  Hamilton,  during  his  travels  in  Upper  Egypt.  In  reply  to 
the  author's  inquiry  upon  this  subject,  he  says,  "  I  never  was  in  a  situation  to  see 
muimmies  in  a  constructed  catacomb,  or  crypt ;  but  a  few  miles  above  Philae,  I  assisted 
at  ithe  opening  of  a  common  grave,  full  of  mummies,  lying  upon  their  lacks :  these  were 
covered  with  the  common  sand  of  the  desert.  The  sculptures  in  the  Egyptian  temples, 
whiich  frequently  represent  mourners  around  a  mummy,  always  place  the  latter  in  a 
horizontal  posture."  The  testimony  of  one  of  Mr.  Hamilton's  fellow  travellers  at 
Saiccdra  also  confirms  what  has  been  said  of  the  difficulty  of  making  these  observations. 
"  We  did  not  see  the  mummies  of  human  bodies  :  those  pits  which  the  Arabs  ge- 
nerally shew  are  filled  up  with  sand,  interspersed  with  bones,  and  not  at  all  inter- 
esting to  examine.  The  places  in  which  there  are  perfect  mummies  are  covered  over 
\vit:h  palm-branches  and  sand,  with  a  view  to  conceal  their  situation.  There  is  a  sort  of 
mummy  trade  among  the  Arabs ;  and  you  are  much  more  likely  to  procure  one  at 
Caii'ro,  than  at  Saccara."     Squire's  MS.  Journal. 

(9)  See  Denon, 'vol.  II.  p.  224.  Vansleb  (Relation  d'Egypte,  p.  149.  Par.  1667) 
hass  a  different  expression,  "  Un  puits  vierge." 

(10)  Travels  in  Egypt,  Eng.  Edit.  p.  224.  vol.  II.   Lond.  1803. 


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PYRAMIDS    OF    SACCARA. 

mentions  the  same  difficulty1.  With  regard  to  the  different 
attitudes  assigned  by  Maillet  and  by  Pococke  to  the  bodies 
of  the  rich  and  the  poor  in  Egyptian  sepulchres,  it  may 
generally  be  remarked,  that  the  more  magnificent  an 
Egyptian  tomb  is  found  to  be,  the  more  striking  is  the 
evidence  it  contains  for  the  horizontal  position  of  the  body: 
witness  the  Soros  of  the  principal  pyramid  of  Djiza,  and 
the  Sarcophagi  mentioned  by  Denon  in  the  sepulchres  of 
Thebes2. 

Upon  the  whole,  therefore,  as  we  cannot  reconcile 
existing  facts  with  the  common  notion  which  has  been 
derived  from  the  text  of  Herodotus,  it  is  more  reasonable  to 
admit  that  his  meaning  has  been  misunderstood,  than  that 
the  text  itself  involves  an  error  ;  that  he  alludes,  in  fact,  to 
the  position  of  the  mummy  in  the  private  dwellings  of  those 
among  the  Egyptians  who  had  no  sepulchre  for  its  re- 
ception. In  their  private  houses  the  Egyptians  placed  the 
bodies  upright.  This  we  learn  from  Diodorus  Siculus,  who 
says3,  "  Those  who  have  not  sepulchres  built  \  make  a  new 
building  in  their  own  houses,  and  place  the  chest  upright." 
Silius  Italicus  alludes  also  to  this  standing  posture5. 

After  our  descent  into  these  catacombs,  we  were  taken 
to  other  mummy  pits ;    but  the  smell  in  all  of  them  was 

offensive, 

(1)  Descr.  de  l'Egypte,  torn.  II.   p.  22.  A  la  Haye,  1740. 

(2)  Denon's  Voyage  en  Egypte,  torn.  I.  p.  236.    Paris  Edit. 

(3)  Diodor.  Sic.  lib.  i.  c.  Q2.    Artist.  1746. 

(4)  Krto-ac.       Ibid. 

(5)  " jEgyptia  tellus 

Claudit  odorato  post  funus  stantiu  busto 
Corpora.  — — — — " 


PYRAMIDS   OF    SACCARA. 


167 


CHAP.  V. 


offensive,  and  the  appearances  were  merely  repetitions  of 
what  we  had  seen  before.  Every  one  of  these  places  had 
been  opened,  and  ransacked,  by  the  Arabs.  We  observed  a 
beautiful  crystallization,  in  diverging  fibres,  of  some  white 
substance,  upon  the  wall  of  one  of  the  chambers,  perhaps 
a  fibrous  carbonat  of*  soda  ;  but  in  our  endeavours  to  remove 
it,  the  specimen  was  destroyed :  it  broke  immediately  upon 
the  slightest  touch.  We  were  then  conducted  to  the  mouth 
of  one  of  those  subterraneous  repositories  in  which  the 
embalmed  birds  were  deposited.  Like  the  entrance  to  all 
the  other  catacombs,  this  resembled  that  of  a  well.  We 
descended,  as  before,  by  our  rope  ladder,  to  the  depth  of 
twenty  feet;  and  here  found  a  level,  or  horizontal  duct, 
along  which  we  were  compelled  to  creep  upon  our  bellies, 
to  the  distance  of  about  sixty  feet,  when  we  came  to  a 
central  place,  whence  several  passages  diverged6.  These 
were  almost  choked  by  sand,  by  a  number  of  broken  jars,  ^Ximed  °f 
and  by  a  quantity  of  swathing  and  of  embalmed  substances,  Birds" 
looking  like  so  much  tinder  and  charcoal  dust,  which  had 
been  taken  out  of  those  jars.     As  we  followed  the  intricate 

windings 


(6)  "  The  well  itself  is  about  six  feet  square:  the  sand,  and  stones,  and  broken 
p'Ottery,  which  are  constantly  falling,  render  the  descent  extremely  inconvenient.  At 
tiie  bottom  of  it  is  a  small  hole,  which,  by  those  who  are  at  all  corpulent,  is  passed  with 
v  ery  great  difficulty  5  indeed,  each  time  it  is  necessary  to  clear  the  sand  from  the  hole, 
which  constantly  fills  up  the  entrance.  Here,  having  taken  off  our  coats,  with  candles 
in  our  hands,  our  faces  to  the  ground,  our  feet  foremost,  and  an  Arab  pulling  our  legs 
from  within,  we  worked  our  way  through  a  passage  about  twenty  yards  in  length,  until 
we  arrived  at  the  place  where  the  sacred  birds  are  deposited.  The  whole  is  excavated  out 
of  the  solid  rock,  and  of  an  inconceivable  extent.  We  did  not  wander  far  from  the 
entrance,  fearful  of  being  lost  in  the  labyrinth.  To  the  right  and  left  of  the  entrance 
are  passages,  which,  as  you  advance,  branch  off  in  various  directions."  Squire's  MS. 
Journal. 


BB  bMbBBBBP 


PYRAMIDS    OF    SACCARA. 

windings  of  these  channels,  we  came  at  last  to  a  passage 
ten  feet  in  height,  and  six  in  width,  where  the  whole  space 
was  filled,  from  the  floor  to  the  roof,  by  the  jars,  in  an 
entire  state,  as  they  were  originally  deposited.  These  have 
often  been  described.  They  were  all  lying  horizontally, 
tier  upon  tier,  the  covers  being  toward*  the  outside,  after 
the  manner  in  which  quart  bottles  are  often  placed  in  our 
cellars.  We  took  down  several  of  them  ;  but  as  fast  as  we 
removed  one  row,  another  appeared  behind  it :  and,  as  we 
were  told  by  the  Arabs,  such  is  their  prodigious  number, 
that,  if  hundreds  were  removed,  the  space  behind  them 
would  appear  similarly  filled  up.  The  same  appearance  is 
presented  at  the  extremities  of  all  these  galleries,  the 
passages  having  been  cleared  only  by  the  removal  of  the  jars. 
We  opened  several  of  them  in  the  pit.  For  the  most  part, 
the  contents  of  all  these  vessels  were  the  same ;  but  there 
were  some  exceptions.  Generally,  after  unfolding  the  linen 
swathing,  we  found  a  bird,  resembling  the  English  curlew, 
having  a  long  beak,  long  legs,  and  white  feathers  tipped 
with  black.  It  is  certainly  the  same  bird  which  Bruce  lias 
described1,   called  by  the  Arabs,  Abou  Hannes*.     In  some 

of 

(1)  See  the  plate  and  description  of  this  bird  in  Bruce s  Travels,  vol.  V.  p.  172. 
Edin.  1790. 

(2)  The  only  entire  specimen  of  this  bird,  taken  from  its  embalmed  state,  was 
obtained  from  one  of  the  Egyptian  jars  by  Mr.  John  Pearson,  Surgeon,  of  London  ; 
who,  having  carefully  removed  all  the  linen  swathing,  and  every  extraneous  substance, 
succeeded  in  the  entire  developement  of  the  perfect  animal.  Mr.  Pearson  communicated 
his  observations  upon  the  subject  to  the  Royal  Society,  among  whose  Transactions  they 
were  published  ;  accompanied  by  an  engraved  representation  of  the  bird,  as  it  appeared 
after  the  covering  was  removed. — See  a  very  interesting  publication,  entitled  Histoire 
Naturelle  et  Mythologique  de  /'Ibis  j  par  Juees-Ce'sar  Savigny,  Membre  de  Vlnstitut 
d'Egypte.  8vo.  with  Plates  exquisitely  drawn  and  coloured.     Paris,  1805. 


PYRAMIDS    OF    SACCARA. 

of  these  jars,  however,  instead  of  a  bird,  were  found  parts 
of  other  animals,  carefully  embalmed,  and  wrapped  in 
linen ;  as  the  head  of  a  monkey,  or  of  a  cat,  without  the 
entire  body.  Such  appearances  are  rare.  Pococke  relates, 
that,  in  one  of  the  irregular  apartments,  he  saw  several 
larger  jars,  which  might  be  intended  for  dogs,  or  for  other 
animals :  of  these,  says  he,  some  have  been  found,  but 
they  are  now  very  rare5.  We  saw  none  of  those  larger  jars : 
they  all  appeared  to  be  of  equal  size,  about  fourteen  inches 
in  length,  of  a  conical  form,  and  made  after  the  same  manner, 
of  coarse  earthenware.  A  luting  fastened  on  the  cover  :  this 
luting  has  been  described  as  mortar,  but  it  seems  rather  to 
have  consisted  of  the  mud  of  the  Nile4.  It  required  consi- 
derable labour  to  move  about  a  dozen  of  these  jars  with 
us,  in  our  passage  back  to  the  mouth  of  the  repository ; 
but  we  succeeded  in  rolling  them  before  us,  until  we  re- 
gained the  rope-ladder,  when  they  were  easily  raised  to  the 
surface,  and  afterwards  sent  to  England,  to  be  distributed 
among  our  friends.  Another  obligation  now  remains  :o  be 
fulfilled ;  namely,  that  of  endeavouring  to  account  for  the 
singular  deposit  of  these  birds  in  the  manner  which  has 
been  described. 

A    reverence   for   certain   birds  that   destroy   flies  and 
serpents  seems  common  to  the  inhabitants  of  all  countries. 

In 

(3)  Description  of  the  East,  vol.  I.  p.  53.     Lond.  1743. 

(4)  "  The  pottery  itself,  although  three  thousand  years  old,  appears  as  new  as  if  it 
were  of  yesterday.  We  broke  several  of  the  pots,  and  found  some  very  perfect  birds. 
We  met  with  a  wing  of  the  Ibis,  having  the  feathers  still  on  the  pinion :  as  soon, 
however,  as  this  was  exposed  to  the  air,  the  plumage  fell  to  pieces,  and  was  lost." 
Squire's  MS.  Journal.  . 

VOL.  III.  Z 


Cause  of  the 
Interment  of 
the  Ibis. 


mm 


'-.ft ' J-  i: .  Mr  I  i**  if-  <  ■  ■  >■  &  I  .V* 


■BHH^HOHBhS 


170  PYRAMIDS  OF  SACCARA. 

chap.  v.      In   almost  all  parts  of  the  world,    it    is   considered  as   an 
unpropitious    omen    to    put   to    death    the  swallow   or   the 
marten.     The  same  respect  has  generally  been  paid  to  the 
stork,  the  heron,  and  their  different  species.  At  this  day,  the 
coming  of  these  birds  is   hailed  as  a  lucky  presage  over  all 
the    north    of    Europe ;     particularly   in    Denmark    and   in 
Holland,  where  the  nests  of  the  stork  maybe  observed  upon 
the   roofs    of   cottages  and   farm-houses,    in  almost   every 
village.     It  is  observed  by  Pauw ',  that  the  Turks,   who  do 
not  pretend  to  be  idolaters,  are  as  careful  in  preventing  the 
Ibis  from  being  destroyed  as  the  Greeks  and  Romans.     It 
would  have  been  well  if  this  writer  had  explained  what  par- 
ticular bird  he  alluded  to  under  this  appellation ;  because  it  is 
believed  that  the   bird  antiently  called  Ibis   is  become  very 
rare  in  Turkey.    The  Egyptians,  says  Pauw9,  instead  of  being 
the  inventors   of  a  superstitious  reverence  for  the  stork  and 
the  Ibis,  brought  this  with  them  from  ^Ethiopia ;  together 
with  the  worship  of  the  cat,  the  weasel,  the  ichneumon,  the 
sparrow-hawk,  the  vulture,  and  the  screech-owl ;   a  worship 
founded  on  the  utility  of  these  animals.     "  It  was  absolutely 
necessary,"  says  he3,    "  to  put  them  under  the  protection  of 
the  law,  otherwise  the  country  would  have  been  altogether 
uninhabitable."      The   Mahometans,    according    to    Shaw4, 

have 


(1)  Philosophical    Dissertations   on   the   Egyptians  and    Chinese,   vol,  II.  p.  100, 
Lond.  1795.  f 

(2)  Ibid. 

(3)  Ibid. 

(4)  Travels,  p.  410.    Lond.  1757. 


PYRAMIDS    OF    SACCARA. 

have  the  stork5  in  the  highest  esteem  and  veneration:  it  is 
as  sacred  anong  them  as  the  Ibis  was  among  the  Egyptians ; 
and  no  less  profane  would  that  person  be  accounted,  who 
should  attempt  to  kill,  nay,  even  to  hurt  or  to  molest  it 6.  We 
are  moreover  told  by  Pliny,  that  the  Egyptians  invoked 
the  Ibis  agiinst  the  approach  of  serpents7.  In  the  earliest 
ages  of  Egyptian  history,  the  same  regard  was  paid  to  the 
Ibis,  and  for  the  same  cause.  Josephus  mentions  this  bird 
in  the  beginning  of  his  Jewish  Annals,  as  harmless  to 
all  creatures,  except  to  serpents.  He  relates  that  Moses, 
leading  an  army  into  ^Ethiopia,  made  use  of  the  Ibis  to 
destroy  a  swarm  of  serpents  that  infested  his  passage*. 
Cicero  alludes  to  this  property  in  the  Ibis9;  and  Pliny 
speaks  of  the  reverence  in  which  it  was  held.  The 
punishment  in  Thessaly  for  having  occasioned  the  death 
of  one  of  these  birds  was  equal  to  that  for  homicide10. 
Thus  we  have  the  most  ample  testimony  as  to  the  veneration 

in 


(5)  "  Lekleh,  or  Legleg,  is  the  name  that  is  commonly  used  by  the  Arabian  authors, 
although  Bel-arje  prevails  all  over  Barbary.  Bochart  (Hierog.  lib.  ii.  cap.  29.)  supposeth 
it  to  be  the  same  with  the  Hasida  of  the  Scriptures."  Ibid.  Note  6. 

(6)  Travels,  ibid. 

(7)  "  Invocant  et  iEgyptii  Ibes  suas  contra  serpentium  adventum."  Plin.  Hist.  Nat. 
cap.  28.  torn.  I.  p.  530.     L.  Bat.  1635. 

(8)  Josephi  Hist.  Antiq.  Jud.  lib.  ii.  c.  10.  Colon.  1691.  It  is  however  maintained 
by  Savigny,  from  the  anatomy  of  the  Ibis,  that  this  bird  could  not  have  swallowed 
serpents. 

(9)  "  Ibes  maximam  vim  serpentium  conficiunt,"  &c.  Cic.  de  Nat.  Deor.  lib.  i. 
p.  210.   Ed.  Lamb. 

(10)  "  Honos  iis  serpentium  exitio  tantus,  ut  in  Thessalia  capitale  fuerit  occidisse, 
eademque  legibus  pcena,  quae  in  homicidam."  Plin.  Hist.  Nat.  lib.  x.  c.  23.  torn.  I. 
p.  527.     L.  Bat.  1635. 


172 


CHAP.  V. 


Hieroglyphic 
Tablet. 


PYRAMIDS    OF    SACCARA. 

in  which  these  birds  were  universally  held.  The  peculiar 
circumstances  which  occasioned  the  remarkable  burial  of 
so  many  of  their  bodies  in  the  Catacombs  of  Egypt,  are 
explained  by  Ibn  Washi,  an  Arabian  writer  ;  who  says,  that 
it  was  usual  to  embalm  and  bury  an  Ibis  at  the  initiation 
of  the  priests1.  When  we  reflect  upon  the  number  of 
the  priests  who  officiated  in  the  temples  and  colleges  of 
the  country,  and  the  lapse  of  ages  during  which  the  prac- 
tice continued,  extending  even  to  the  conquest  of  Egypt 
by  the  Arabs,  we  may  easily  account  for  the  astonishing 
number  of  these  birds  thus  preserved.  Plutarch,  more- 
over, mentions  the  burial  of  the  Ibis,  and  of  other  animals 
held  sacred  among  the  Egyptians.  He  says,  it  was  some- 
times a  private,  and  sometimes  a  public  ceremony2.  The 
Ibis,  with  other  sacred  animals,  was  put  to  death  by 
the  priests,  and  privately  buried,  as  an  expiatory  sacrifice 
to  avert  pestilential  diseases.  The  burial  was  public  when 
any  particular  species  of  the  sacred  animals  was  to  be 
interred3. 

We  had  no  sooner  left  the  sepulchres  of  the  Ibis,  than  we 
observed  Mr.  Hammer,  on  horseback,  coming  towards  us, 
followed  by  a  large  party  of  Arabs,  who  were  dragging 
after  him  a  large  stone,  which  had  closed  the  mouth  of  one 
of  the  Mummy-pits.  It  was  a  very  fine  hieroglyphical  tablet; 
and  as  Mr.  Hammer  wished  very  much  to  send  it  to  the 

Oriental 


(1)  See  the  work  of  Ibn  Washi,  on  Antient  Alphabets,  &c.  as  translated  by  Mr. 
Hammer.    The  same  writer  is  mentioned  by  Kircher,  under  the  name  of  Aben  Vaschia* 

(2)  Plutarch,  de  Isid.  et  Osir.  c.  73.    Cantb.  1744.  (3)  Ibid. 


>»  M 


PL     Z 

H 


^ 


• 


PYRAMIDS    OF   SACCARA. 


173 


Oriental  Academy  of  Vienna,  we  assisted  him  in  moving  it  to- 
wards the  djerm,  and  succeeded  in  getting  it  on  board.  It  was 
afterwards  sent  to  Rosetta,  and  to  the  English  fleet ;  but  we 
are  yet  ignorant  whether  it  ever  reached  its  destination.  In 
the  fear  that  it  may  have  been  lost,  and  at  the  same  time  in 
the  hope  of  making  known  to  whom  it  properly  belongs,  if 
it  now  exist  in  other  hands  than  those  for  whom  Mr.  Ham- 
mer intended  it,  a  few  words  may  be  added  as  a  description 
of  it,  accompanied  by  an  engraved  representation  of  the 
stone. 

It  seemed,  from  the  rude  and  angular  style  of  the 
sculpture,  as  well  as  from  the  substance  itself,  upon  which 
the  characters  were  engraved,  to  be  of  the  highest  degree 
of  antiquity.  It  was  a  slab  of  common  grey  limestone, 
about  four  feet  in  length,  and  two  in  breadth.  Certain 
of  the  inscribed  characters  (for  example,  IAI  and  I A  I)  are 
so  evidently  written  letters,  that  if  this  single  tablet  alone 
remain,  as  a  specimen  of  hieroglyphic  writing,  there  will 
be  little  reason  to  doubt  the  use  of  these  characters. 
Among  the  four  figures  in  the  upper  department,  Anubis 
is  seen  with  an  egg  upon  his  head,  and  the  Crux  ansata 
in  his  left  hand.  Osiris,  by  his  side,  bears  in  his  right  hand 
the  flagellum,  and  in  his  left  the  crook.  Upon  the  right 
and  left  of  these  figures,  on  either  side,  is  seen  an  altar 
supporting  the  lotus  flower ;  and,  beyond  these,  are  two  figures 
in  the  attitude  of  Almehs,  uttering  the  Eleleu  at  funerals, 
but  perhaps  intended  to  represent  a  similar  ceremony  as 
practised  by  the  priests,  who  are  distinguished  by  the 
baldness  of  their  heads.  Herodotus  says  that  it  was  the  peculiar 

custom 


chap.  v. 


HDBs  TigrT         &ESE99  UJ  S||JHl|SUU|AU|BtB83BBHB^pHH|KH9iB^ 


PYRAMIDS     OF     SACCARA. 

custom   of  Egyptian   priests    to  shave    their  heads1.     The 
whole  of   this  symbolical  picture    may  have  related    to   a 
sepulchral  subject:  its  meaning  was  explained  by  inscriptions 
placed  above  the  figures,  and   in  other  parts  of  the  tablet. 
Anubis  with  the  egg,  and  the  type  of  Life  to  come  in  his 
left  hand2,  may  typify  that  embryo  state  of  the  soul  which 
precedes   its   revivification    after   death;   as    may    also    the 
unexpanded  flower  of  the  Lotus.    Another  symbolical  pic- 
ture, below  this,  exhibits  a  solemn  procession,  perhaps  the 
same  which  Plutarch   describes3  as  taking  place  annually, 
upon  the  nineteenth  of  the  Egyptian  month  Pachon,  when 
the  priests  carried   rich  odours  and  spices  to  celebrate  the 
finding  of  Osiris,  a  ceremony  much  resembling  that  of  the 
Resurrection  in  the   Greek  Church ;    the    Christos    voscress 
of  the  Russians.     Inscriptions  occupy  all  the    rest    of  the 
tablet,  either  engraven  in  regular  lines  beneath,   upon  the 
lower  part  of  the  stone,  or  above  the  heads    and  by  the 
sides  of  the  pictured  figures.     This  very   curious    relique, 
therefore,  shews  us,  not  only   the  sacred  writing,  but  also 
the  sort  of  symbolical  painting  used  by  the  priests  of  Egypt. 
At  the  same  time,  in  rudeness  of  design,  and  in  the  forced 

exhibition 


(1)  Herodot.  Euterpe,  c.  36.  Eudoxus  shaved  not  only  his  beard,  but  his  eyebrows, 
during  the  time  that  he  resided  with  the  priests  of  Egypt.  Diogen.  Laert.  lib.  viii. 
segment.  87.  pag.  545.  Herodotus  further  relates  (Euterpe,  c.  37.)  that  the  priests 
shaved  their  whole  bodies  every  third  day. 

(2)  See  Chap.  IV.  p.  109.  of  this  Volume. 

(3)  Plut.  de  Isid.  et  Osir.  p.  39.    Camb.  1744. 


PYRAMIDS    OF    SACCAR  A.  1^5 

exhibition  of  profile,  the  style  of  delineation  resembles  that      CHAP- v. 
which  is  seen  upon  the  most  antient  terra-cotta  vases,  found 
in   the    sepulchres    of    those    Grecian    colonies    that  were 
established  in  the  south  of  Italy. 

Some  young  Arabs  brought  us  an  antelope,  which  Antelope, 
they  had  recently  caught.  This  we  purchased  of  them 
for  three  piastres ;  about  four  shillings  of  our  money. 
They  had  so  bruised  its  legs  with  cords,  that,  notwith- 
standing all  our  endeavours  to  preserve  this  beautiful 
animal,  it  lived  with  us  but  a  short  time.  The  poor 
creature,  after  being  compelled  to  exchange  its  free  range 
of  the  desert  for  a  confined  birth  on  board  the  djerm, 
grew  tame,  and  seemed  sensible  of  the  kindness  of  its 
keepers,  for  it  actually  died  licking  the  hands  of  the 
person  who  fed  it.  The  people  of  Saccara  brought  us  also 
several  antique  idols,  beads,  amulets,  &c.  found  about  the 
Pyramids,  and  in  the  Catacombs.  Of  these  we  shall  briefly 
notice  the  more  remarkable. 

].  Scarabcei,  formed  of  onyx-stones,  with  signets,  con-    Antiquitie* 

.     .  .  .  found  by  the 

taming  hieroglyphic  characters,  but  executed  in  the  Arab« 
coarsest  manner;  the  stones  being  at  the  same  time 
so  decomposed,  that  they  are  become  of  a  whitish 
colour,  quite  opaque,  and  externally  resemble  com- 
mon limestone.  Of  this  nature  were  the  signets  men- 
tioned by  Plutarch,  as  worn  by  soldiers4.  See  Nos.  1, 
and  2,  of  the  Piute. 

2.  Small 


(4)  De  Isid.  et  Osir.  c.  10.     Lut.  1624. 


HMMMHBNlJi 


"TCPtl^i^T*  ■  f**^  S?! 


176 


CHAP.  V. 


PYRAMIDS    OF    SACCARA. 

2.  Small  lachrymatory  vessels  of  terra-cotta,  formed  of 
pale-white  clay,  without  varnish. 

3.  Vessels  of  libation,  of  the  same  materials. 

4.  Knife-blades  of  copper.  These  are  frequently  repre- 
sented in  hieroglyphic  writing. 

5.  Small  idols,  formed  of  blue  glass,  shaped  to  resemble 
the  form  of  the  Mummy -chests.    See  No.  3. 

6.  Smaller  images  of  Anuhis,  of  the  same  substance,  bored 
to  be  worn  as  ear-drops,  or  amulets  round  the  neck. 
See  No.  4. 

J.  Similar  figures  of  Orus.    See  No.  5. 

8.  Sculptured  idols,  formed  of  limestone,  representing 
the  double  image  of  Leo  and  Virgo,  crowned  by  an 
orb,  as  the  Sun.    See  No.  6. 

9.  Similar  figures  of  Isis.    See  No.  7. 

10.  Beads  of  "white  glass,  each  of  which  has  seven  blue 

spots.    See  No.  8. 
]  1.  Beads  of  white  glass,  without  spots. 

12.  Deformed  images,  resembling  the  idols  of  India  and 
China.    See  No.  9. 

13.  Phalli,  and  indecent  images  of  Osiris,  as  mentioned 
by  Plutarch1.  All  these  are  of  blue  glass,  bored,  to 
be  worn  as  amulets. 

14.  Small  amulets  of  the  same  substance,  and  similarly 
bored,  which  are  very  numerous,  representing  a  horses 

head. 


(l)  Wavrayov  £e  teal  dv6puir6p.optyov  'Gtripicos  ayaX/ua  ^likvvovtiv,  lt,opOid£ot>  r%> 
«!toi'j),  2nd  to  yovifiov  teal  to  Tpotyi/xov.    Plut.  de  Isid.  et  Osir.  c.  51.    hut.  1624. 


MtlUnrt.,,  JA\ 


l.rttttj  !\mu     ..<./•' 


Lares,  Heads.  Amu  lets,  frr,  round  n\  Saccara, 


I'uhUJir.i  ''a  ii  tA*iy  T.&dtM  t  KMmm.S*mmd. Imtln  . 


■■    §■■■  ■■■■■ 

■MOM 


PYRAMIDS    OF    SACCARA,  177 

head.  This  is  the  symbol  which  Virgil  mentions  as  chap,  v. 
being  found  by  the  Carthaginians  in  digging  for  the 
foundation  of  their  city9.  It  is  represented  upon  the 
medals  of  Carthage,  which  probably  suggested  the 
circumstance  to  Virgil's  mind.  It  also  appears  upon  the 
Soros,  called  the  Lover  s  Fountain,  which  was  found 
near  the  castle  of  Kallat  el  Kabsh  in  Cairo,  and  is  now 
in  the  British  Museum.  Nor  are  we  without  its  ex- 
planation ;  for  Ceres,  who  was  the  same  as  Isis,  was 
worshipped  under  the  form  of  a  horse's  head  in  Sicily. 
It  is  therefore  only  one  of  the  modifications  under 
which  the  Antients  recognised  Isis,  the  Pantamorpha 
Mater.  Some  of  these  amulets  were  curiously  adorned 
with  small  eyes  of  antient  bronze.  See  Nos.  10,  11. 
15.  Sculptured  images,  formed  of  an  opaque  vitrified  sub- 
stance, resembling  No.  5.  only  larger  in  size,  and 
covered  with  hieroglyphic  characters.  These  were 
about  four  inches  in  length.     See  Nos.  12,  13. 

The  horses  of  our  Arab  guard  were  the  finest  we  had  ever    Horses  of  the 

Country. 

seen;  not  even  excepting  those  of  Circassia.  In  choosing 
their  steeds,  the  Arabs  prefer  mares  :  the  Turks  give  the 
preference  to  stallions.  The  Mamalukes  and  Bedouin  Arabs 
are  perhaps  better  mounted  than  any  people  upon  earth  ;  and 
the  Arab  grooms  were  considered,  by  many  of  our  officers, 

as 


(2)     "  Lucus  in  urbe  fuit  media,  laetissimus  umbrA, 
Quo  primum  jactati  undis  et  turbine,  Pceni 
Effodere  loco  signum,  quod  regia  Juno 


Monstrarat,  caput  acris  equi."- 
VOL.   III. 


/Emid.l.  44ft. 


2  A 


178 


CHAP.  V. 


Theft 
detected. 


PYRAMIDS    OF    SACCARA. 

as  superior  to  those  of  our  own  country.  These  grooms 
affirm  that  their  horses  never  lie  down,  but  sleep  standing, 
when  they  are  fastened  by  one  leg  to  a  post ;  and  that  the 
saddle  is  never  taken  off,  except  for  cleaning  the  animal. 
We  give  this  relation  as  we  heard  it,  without  venturing 
to  vouch  for  its  truth.  After  paying  the  sheik  for  the 
horses  we  had  hired,  and  the  peasants  for  their  labour,  we 
returned  in  our  boat  to  Sheik  Atman,  where  we  had  rested 
the  preceding  night;  and  found,  as  before,  a  party  of  Almehs, 
with  bells  upon  their  fingers,  exhibiting  the  dance  we  had 
then  noticed,  as  if  it  had  continued,  without  intermission, 
from  the  time  of  our  first  coming  to  the  village.  Several 
Turkish  soldiers  had  arrived  from  the  Vizier,  to  collect  straw 
for  his  cavalry.  While  our  servant  was  conversing  with  one 
of  these  men,  who  was  seated  upon  the  ground  observing 
the  dance,  an  Arab,  understanding  the  Turkish  language, 
joined  them,  and  entered  into  conversation.  This  man  con- 
trived to  steal  from  the  servant  his  purse,  containing  four 
sequins  of  Holland.  Upon  being  accused  of  the  theft,  he 
denied  it ;  but  all  the  Turks,  indignant  at  the  audacious 
manner  in  which  the  theft  had  been  committed,  insisted 
upon  a  general  search.  The  money  was  found  in  the  Arab's 
shoes,  placed  beneath  his  pillow,  under  a  date- tree;  and  the 
purse  where  he  had  thrown  it,  at  the  distance  of  a  quarter 
of  a  mile.  Upon  the  following  morning  we  left  the  village 
as  soon  as  daylight  appeared,  and  at  eleven  A.  M.  again 
entered  the  canal  of  Cairo. 

Having  thus  concluded  our  observations  upon  the  Pyr- 
amids of  Saccdra,  as  well  as  those  of  Dfiza,  the  remainder 

of 


THE    PYRAMIDS. 


179 


o:  this  chapter  will  be  appropriated  to  a  few  observations      chap.  v. 
upon  the  history  of  these  remarkable  monuments. 

After  the   numerous  accounts  which,   during  so    many    History  of  the 

.     .  r  Pyramids. 

ages,  have  been  written  to  illustrate  the  origin  of  the 
Pyramids,  it  is  not  probable  that  any  new  remarks  will 
meet  with  much  attention.  Yet  how  few,  among  all  the 
;authors  who  have  undertaken  to  investigate  this  subject, 
Ihave  ever  ventured  to  express  an  opinion  of  their  own. 
{Struck  by  the  magnitude  of  the  objects  themselves;  by 
ttheir  immense  antiquity ;  and  by  a  consciousness  of  the 
obscurity  in  which  their  history  has  been  veiled,  every 
succeeding  traveller  contents  himself  with  a  detail  of  the 
observations  of  his  predecessors,  only  shewing  the  extent 
of  the  labyrinth  wherein  he  is  bewildered.  Yet  something 
perhaps  might  be  accomplished,  were  it  allowable  upon 
good  authority  to  annihilate  a  most  redundant  source  of 
error  and  imposture.  With  this  view,  it  may  be  ad- 
visable to  abandon  all  that  Grecian  historians  have  written 
upon  the  subject1.  The  arrogance  and  vanity  with  which 
they  endeavoured  to  explain  every  thing,  consistently 
with  their  own  fables  and  prejudices,  caused  the  well- 
known  observation  made  to  Solon  by  an  Egyptian  priest, 
who,  according  to  Plato,  maintained  that  the  "  Greeks  were 
always  children,  and  had  no  knowledge  of  antiquity." 
Hence  originate  those  difficulties  mentioned  by  Pauw,  as 
encountered  by  persons    who    study  the  monuments   of  a 

country 

(l)  "  Mirum  est  quo  procedat  Graeca  eredulitas.    Nullum  tam  impudens  mendacium 
est,  ui  teste  careat."    Pirn.  Hist.  Nat.  lib.  viii.  c.  20.  torn.  I.  p.  425.    L.  Bat.  1(535. 


so 


tT^iA/i*^^  1^-V  £&*>Af~*fc 


180  THE     PYRAMIDS. 

chap.  v.  country  concerning  which  the  moderns  have  conspired  with 
the  antients  to  give  us  false  ideas.  "  The  latter  indeed," 
says  he',  "  were  probably  deceived  by  being  at  the  discretion 
of  a  set  of  men  called  Interpreters,  whose  college  was  esta- 
blished in  the  reign  of  Psammetichus,  and  who  might  be 
compared  to  those  people  called  Ciceroni  at  Rome.  Tra- 
vellers who  went  and  returned,  like  Herodotus,  without 
knowing  a  word  of  the  language  of  the  country,  could 
learn  nothing  but  from  these  Interpreters.  These  men, 
perceiving  the  inclination  of  the  Greeks  for  the  marvellous, 
amused  them,  like  children,  with  stories  inconsistent  with 
common  sense,  and  unworthy  of  the  majesty  of  history." 
If  we  would  obtain  authentic  information  concerning  the 
earliest  history  of  the  Egyptians,  we  must  be  contented 
to  glean  from  other  sources  ;  and  principally  from  Jewish 
and  Arabian  writers.  The  Jews,  by  the  long  residence  of 
their  forefathers  in  Egypt,  and  also  by  the  constant  inter- 
course offered  in  the  contiguity  of  this  country  and  Judaea, 
were  of  all  people  the  most  likely  to  have  preserved  some 
knowledge  of  Egyptian  antiquities :  and  the  Arabs  have 
preserved  not  only  the  names  bestowed  upon  the  Pyramids 
from  the  earliest  times,  but  also  some  traditions  as  to  the 
use  for  which  they  were  intended.  By  the  dim  light  thus 
afforded,  and  by  comparing  the  existing  remains  with 
similar  works  in  other  countries,  and  with  the  knowledge 
we  possess  of  the  customs  of  all  nations  in  their  infancy, 
we  may  possibly  attain  something  beyond  conjecture,  as   to 

the 


(1)  Philosoph.  Diss,  on  the  Egyptians  and  Chinese,  vol.  II.  p.  43.    Lond.  1/95 


THE    PYRAMIDS. 


181 


the  people  by  whom  the  Pyramids  were  erected,  and  the  ,  CHAp- v- , 
purpose  for  which  they  were  intended.  The  epocha  of  their 
origin  was  unknown  when  the  first  Greek  philosophers 
travelled  into  Egypt2.  They  are  even  more  antient  than  the 
age  of  the  earliest  writers  whose  works  have  been  trans- 
mitted to  us.  That  we  may  arrive,  therefore,  at  any  thing 
like  satisfactory  information  concerning  them,  the  following 
order  of  inquiry  may  be  deemed  requisite  : 

i.  Who  were  the  inhabitants  of  this  part  of  Egypt  in    Manner  of  the 

Investigation. 

the  remote  period  to  which  these  monuments  refer  ? 

ii.  Is  there  any  thing  in  the  Pyramids,  as  they  now 
appear,  which  corresponds  with  any  of  the  known 
customs  of  this  people  P 

in.  Did  any  thing  occur  in  the  history  of  the  same  people 
which  can  possibly  be  adduced  to  explain  the  present 
violated  state  of  the  principal  pyramid  ? 

iv.  Doth  any  record  or  tradition  attribute  the  origin  of 
the  Pyramids  to  this  people,  or  to  a  period  equally 
remote  with  that  of  their  residence  in  Egypt? 

If  the  three  last  of  these  queries  admit  of  an  answer  in  the 
affirmative,  and  a  satisfactory  reply  can  be  given  to  the  Jirst, 
the  result  will  surely  be,  either  that  we  do  possess  docu- 
ments sufficient  to  illustrate  this  very  difficult  subject,  or,  at 

least, 


(2)  "  Nihil  certius  est,  quam  omnia,  quae  de  conditoribus  Pyramidum  prodita  nobis 
sunt  ab  iEgyptiis  et  Graecis,  esse  incertissima.  Ip-i  id  Veteres  fatentur."  Ferixonii 
/Egypt.  Orig.  et  Temp,  anticjuiss.  Investigatio,  cap.  xxi.  p.  386.    L.  Bat.  17U- 


KM 


p^p^p^pj   pp_ 


■IS  .JJ?»-:»  --•*-A*-^-'<«  -*r^i  S;:">ii*i"<»J«6<v5X'».'Jf»it-«-^.')tt 


Age  of  the 
Pyramids. 


;   THE   PYRAMIDS. 

least,  that  a  very  high  degree  of  probability  attaches  to  the 
opinion  thereby  suggested  ;  and  that  the  obscurity  in  which 
this  part  of  antient  history  has  been  involved,  is  principally 
owing  to  the  cause  assigned  by  Pauw ',  namely,  to  a  train  of 
theories  founded  upon  the  bewildering  fables  of  the  Greeks. 
To  proceed,  therefore,  according  to  the  proposed  method 
of  investigation  : 

i. 

Who  were  the  Inhabitants  of  this  part  of  Egypt,  in  the  remote  period 
to  which  these  monuments  refer  f 

The  kingdom  of  Egypt,  according  to  the  best  authorities 
admitted  in  chronology2,  had  lasted  about  seventeen  hundred 
years  at  the  conquest  of  Cambyses3.  The  first  Princes  spoken 
of  in  sacred  scripture  are  those  "  of  Pharaoh,"  mentioned 
in  the  books  of  Moses4,  near  two  thousand  years  before  the 
Christian  sera.  The  first  pyramid,  according  to  Herodotus5, 
was  built  by  Moeris,  the  last  of  a  line  of  kings  from  Menes 
to  Sesostris ;  and  therefore  it  must  have  been  erected  some 
ages  before  the  Trojan  war.  Without,  however,  placing 
any  reliance  upon  this  record,  or  attempting  to  assign  a 
particular  epocha  for  any  one  of  these  monuments,  we  may 
venture  to  assume,  as  a  fact,  upon  the  authority  of  all 
writers  by  whom  they  are  noticed,  that  they  existed  above 

sixteen 


(1)  Philosoph.  Diss.  &c.  vol.11,  p.  43.     Lond.  1795. 

(2)  See  the  calculation  of  Constantine  Manasses. 

(3)  B.  C.525. 

(4)  "  The  Princes  also  of  Pharaoh."    Genes,  xii.  15. 

(5)  Herodot.   Euterpe,  c.  101. 


THE    PYRAMIDS. 


183 


sixteen  hundred  years  before  the  birth  of  Christ.  Almost  a 
century  before  that  time,  the  prosperity  of  Joseph,  then 
a  ruler  in  this  country,  and  a  dweller  in  the  very  city 
to  which  these  monuments  belonged,  is  described  as  having 
extended  "unto  the  utmost  bounds  of  the  everlasting 
hills."  These  words6,  as  applied  to  the  place  of  his 
residence,  and  the  seat  of  his  posterity,  are  very  remarkable. 
He  "  bought  all  the  land' of  Egypt  for  Pharaoh,"  reducing 
all  its  independent  provinces  into  one  monarchy.  The  entire 
administration  of  this  empire  was  intrusted  to  him ;  for 
Pharaoh  said7,  "Only  in  the  throne  will  I  be  greater  than 
thou."  In  the  remote  period,  therefore,  to  which  the 
Pyramids  refer,  "  Joseph  dwelt  in  Egypt,  he,  and  his 
father's  house."  It  is  said  of  them8,  that  they  "increased 
abundantly,  and  multiplied,  and  waxed  exceeding  mighty, 
and  the  land  was  filled  with  them."  The  customs  of 
embalming  bodies,  and  of  placing  them  in  sepulchral 
chambers,  were  then  practised;  for  Jacob9  was  embalmed, 
and  "  gathered  unto  his  fathers  in  the  cave  of  the  field 
of  Ephron."  At  the  death  of  Joseph,  he  too  was  em- 
balmed'0, but  not  "gathered  unto  his  fathers.  He  was 
entombed,  to  use  the  literal  expression  of  the  Septuagint", 
EN  THI  20PM,  in  Egypt.  And  this  mode  of  his  interment 
suggests  a  reply  to  the  second  question  before  proposed. 

Is 


CHAP.  V. 


(6)  Genes,  xlix.  26. 
(8)  Exod.  i.  7. 
(10)  Ibid.  l.  26. 


(7)  Gen.  xli.  40. 
(9)  Ibid.  l.  2. 
(11)  Ibid. 


184 


CHAP.  V. 


Sepulchral 
Origin  of  the 
Pyramids. 


THE   PYRAMIDS. 


II. 


Is  there  any  thing  in  the  Pyramids,  as  they  now  appear,  tvhich  corre- 
sponds with  any  of  the  known  Customs  of  this  People  ? 

The  nature  of  a  Soros  has  been  repeatedly  explained, 
upon  the  indisputable  authority  of  Inscriptions  where  this 
name  has  been  assigned  to  a  particular  kind  of  receptacle 
for  the  dead,  one  of  which  now  exists  in  the  chamber  of 
the  principal  pyramid.  This  kind  of  coffin  has  sometimes 
one  of  its  extremities  rounded,  and  sometimes  both  are 
squared ;  but  its  dimensions  are  almost  always  the  same, 
and  it  is  very  generally  monolithal,  or  of  one  stone.  This 
is  the  kind  of  coffin  which  the  Romans  called  Sarco- 
phagus ' ;  and  any  doubt  as  to  its  use,  seems  to  be 
without  reason ;  because  the  Soros,  in  many  instances, 
has  borne,  not  only  its  name  inscribed  upon  it  in  legible 
characters,  but  also  the  purport  for  which  it  was  in- 
tended. The  principal  pyramid  therefore  contains  that 
which  corresponds  with  the  known  customs  of  a  people 
who  inhabited  Egypt  in  the  remote  period  to  which  the 
Pyramids  refer,  because  Joseph's  body  was  put  iv  rrj  2o>w. 
And  on  this  fact  alone,  if  no  other  could  be  adduced, 
the    sepulchral    origin    of   those    monuments    is    decidedly 

manifest2. 

in.  Did 


(1)  Augustin.  de  Civit.  Dei,  1.  xviii.  c.  5.    Julius  Pollux,  x.  150. 

(2)  "  Communior  ergo  sententia  fuit,  sepulchra  fuisse  Regum  (Fide  Diodorum  Sic. 
lib.i.  pag.  40,  41.)  quod  ex  solio  seu  sandapila  in  illis  residua  satis  constat."  Perizon. 
dig.  Mgypt.  c.1\.  p. 393.    L.  Bat.  1711. 


THE   PYRAMIDS. 


III. 


Did  any  thing  occur  in  the  History  of  the  same  People  which  can  possibly 
be  adduced  to  explain  the  present  violated  state  of  the  principal 
Pyramid  f 

Previous  to  the  consideration  of  this  question,  it 
may  be  proper  to  mention,  that  the  custom  of  heaping 
an  artificial  mound,  whether  of  stones  or  of  earth,  above 
the  Soros,  after  interment,  was  a  common  practice  of  the 
Antients.  Examples  of  this  kind  have  been  previously 
alluded  to  in  the  former  volumes  of  these  Travels.  The 
most  antient  form  of  this  sort  of  mound  was  not  pyra- 
midal. However  antient  the  Pyramids  may  be,  a  simpler 
hemispheroidal  or  conical  form  seems  to  have  preceded  the 
more  artificial  angular  structure.  Among  the  Pyramids  of 
Saccdra,  which  appear  to  be  more  antient  than  those  of 
Djha,  there  are  instances,  as  we  have  shewn,  not  only  of 
this  primeval  pile,  but  of  its  various  modifications,  until 
it  assumed  the  pyramidal  shape.  One  example  has  been 
noticed  among  the  Pyramids  of  Saccdra,  of  an  immense 
mound,  which  corresponds  in  its  form  with  the  common 
appearance  presented  by  antient  Tumuli  almost  all  over  the 
world,  as  they  are  found  in  countries  where  the  pyramidal 
shape  was  never  introduced.  But  to  proceed,  in  the  dis- 
cussion of  the  third  question. 

The  body  of  Joseph  being  thus  placed  h  rrj  26Pp,  and    Possible  cause 

of  the  Vioia- 
buried  according   to   the  accustomed  usage   of  the   Egyp-     tumofthe 

principal 

tkms  (as  manifested  by  the  existence  of  one  of  their  antient    pyramid. 


VOL.    III. 


2  B 


sepulchres 


SWlfiM  $lrj-l>V      ViiWWS  *&'*$? 


THE    PYRAMIDS. 

sepulchres  containing  the  receptacle  in  question),  was  not 
intended  to  remain  in  Egypt.  The  Israelites  had  bound 
themselves  to  him  by  an  oath,  that  when  they  left  the  land, 
they  would  "  carry  his  bones"  with  them1.  Accordingly 
we  find,  that  when  a  century  and  a  half  had  elapsed  from 
the  time  of  his  burial,  the  sepulchre,  which  during  all  this 
period  had  preserved  his  reliques  in  a  Soros,  was  opened  by 
the  children  of  Israel.  Their  number  amounted  to  six  hun- 
dred thousand  men  when  they  went  out  of  Egypt,  besides 
the  mixed  multitude  by  whom  they  were  accompanied2; 
a  sufficient  army,  surely,  even  for  the  opening  of  a  pyramid 
if  it  were  necessary,  especially  when  the  persons  employed 
for  the  undertaking  were  acquainted  with  the  secret  of  its 
entrance ;  having,  from  the  very  moment  of  the  patriarch's 
interment,  been  under  a  solemn  engagement  to  remove  the 
body  which  they  had  there  placed.  However  this  may  be 
determined,  it  is  certain  the  tomb  was  opened ;  for  no 
sooner  is  their  departure  mentioned,  than  we  read3- — "  Moses 
took  the  bones  of  Joseph  with  him."  Here,  then,  we 
have  a  record  in  history,  which  implies  the  violation  of 
a  sepulchre,  and  the  actual  removal  of  an  embalmed  body 
from  the  Soros  in  which  it  is  said  to  have  been  deposited. 
The  locality,  too,  of  this  sepulchre  seems  to  coincide  with 
that  of  the  particular  coemetery  where  this  pyramid  has  for 

so 


(1)  "  And  Joseph  took  an  oath  of  the  children  of  Jsrael,  saying,  God  will  surely 
visit  you,  and  you  shall  carry  up  my  bones  from  hence."     Gen.  l.  25. 

(2)  Exod.  xii.  37,  3b.  « 

(3)  Ibid.  xiii.  19. 


THE    PYRAMIDS. 

so  many  ages  unaccountably  borne  the  marks  of  a  similar 
violation  ;  its  secret  entrance  being  disclosed  to  view;  and  its 
Soros  always  empty4.-  It  is  by  no  means  here  presumed  that 
this  circumstance  will  account  for  its  violated  state ;  but  it 
furnishes  a  curious  coincidence  between  the  present  appear- 
ance of  the  pyramid,  and  a  fact  recorded  in  antient  history 
which  may  possibly  be  urged  to  that  effect.  No  other  pyramid 
has  been  thus  opened ;  neither  is  it  probable  that  any  such 
violation  of  a  sepulchre  would  ever  have  been  formerly 
tolerated ;  so  sacrilegious  was  the  attempt  held  to  be  among 
all  the  nations  of  antiquity,  Egyptians,  Jews,  Greeks,  and 
Romans5.  At  the  same  time,  there  are  many  weighty  argu- 
ments against  the  opinion  that  such  a  stupendous  pyramid 
would  have  been  erected  by  Joseph's  posterity  over  his 
remains,  even  if  they  had  worshipped  him  as  a  God,  when 
it  was  known  that  his  body  was  not  intended  to  remain  in 
the  country:  but  the  honours  paid  to  the  dead  in  Egypt  were 
in  certain  instances,  as  it  is  evident,  almost  beyond  our  con- 
ception ;  and  there  is  no  saying  what,  in  a  century  and  a  half, 
the  piety  of  some  hundred  thousand  individuals  might  not 
have  effected,  especially  when  aided  by  the  Egyptians  them- 
selves, who  equally  revered  the  memory  of  Joseph,  although 
they  became,  at  last,  inimical  to  his  descendants.  This  part  of 
the  subject  is  not  altogether  essential  to  the  end  proposed  :  it 
has  been  introduced  rather  as  a  curious  inquiry  suggested  by 

the 


18? 


CHAP.  V. 


(4)  "  Locus  quoque,  in  quo  condits  sunt  Pyramides,  ab  Israelitarum  habitation*4 
minime  fuit  alienus."     Perizonii  Origines  jEgyptiacce,  c.  21.  p.  390.    L.  Bat.  1 7 1 1 . 

(5)  See  Ch.  xvii.  of  the  former  Section,  p.  600;  and  Note  (3). 


!  wwwgsyfga-         -y'^BBHHlH  H  Hi  #*l^s       ««§ 


188 


CHAP.  V. 


Historical 
Evidence  con- 
cerning the 
building  of 
Pyramids  in 

Egypt. . 


THE    PYRAMIDS. 

the  connection  which  appears  to  exist  between  the  Pyramids 
and  the  history  of  the  Hebrews :  it  neither  affects  nor 
alters  the  main  argument,  as  to  the  nature  of  these  monu- 
ments in  general. 

IV. 

Doth  any  record  or  tradition  attribute  the  origin  of  the  Pyramids  to 
the  Israelites,  or  to  a  period  equally  remote  ivith  that  of  their  resi- 
dence in  Egypt  P 

This  brings  us  to  the  last  article  of  the  inquiry.  For 
the  record,  we  have  only  to  refer  to  Josephus1;  who  ex- 
pressly states  it  as  one  of  the  grievous  oppressions  which 
befel  the  Hebrews  after  the  death  of  Joseph,  that  they 
were  compelled  to  labour  in  building  Pyramids2;  and 
the  curious  memorial,  as  given  by  the  Jewish  Historian, 
is  sustained  by  collateral  evidence  in  the  books  of  Moses. 
The  principal  labour  of  the  Israelites  is  described  in 
Exodus3  to  be  a  daily  task  of  making  bricks,  without 
being  allowed  a  requisite  portion  of  straw  for  their  manu- 
facture. The  mere  circumstance  of  six  hundred  thousand 
persons  being  employed  at  the  same  time  in  making  bricks, 
affords  of  itself  a  proof  that  the  building  for  which 
these    materials   were    required    could    be    of  no    ordinary 

magnitude. 


(1)  "  Ego  certe  Josepho,  Israelitarum  tempore  factas  censenti  accesserim."  Perizon* 
Orig.  jEgypt.    c.  21.  p.  387.     L   Bat.  1/11. 

(2)  TlvpafilBas  te  dvoiKolop.ovvrt<:  t^irpv^nv  ij/uoiv  to  yfVo?.  "  Pyramidibus  etiam 
exstruendis  homines  nostros  adhibentes  deterebant."  Josephi  Antiq.  Jud.  lib.  ii.  c.  g. 
Edit.  Havervampi,  torn.  I.  p.  g7«    1726. 

(3)  Exod.  v.  16. 


THE    PYRAMIDS. 


189 


magnitude4.  This  happened  too  after  the  death  of  one  of  the  v  chap-  v-^ 
kings  of  Egypt5,  at  which  time,  it  is  said,  they  began  "  to 
sigh  by  reason  of  their  bondage."  It  is  therefore  very 
probable  that  the  pyramid  at  which  they  laboured  was 
the  sepulchre  of  this  king:  this  is  matter  of  conjecture; 
although  it  may  be  added,  that  one  of  the  Pyramids  near 
Saccara  is  built  of  bricks,  containing  chopped  strata6.  The 
fact  for  present  attention  is  the  record  preserved  by  Jose- 
phus,  which  attributes  to  the  Israelites  the  origin  of  certain 
Pyramids  in  Egypt:  and  for  other  evidence,  proving  them 
to   have  existed  in  a  period  equally   remote   with   that  in 

which 


(4)  "Quid  vero  tanto  temporis  intevvallo  tot  millia  hominum  perfecerint,  non  reperi- 
mus,  nisi  munitionem  duarum  vel  trium  urbium,  quae  ab  iis  intra  paucissimos  annos  facil- 
lime  perfici  potuit.  Debuerunt  etiam  aliud  quid  maximae  niolis,  laboris,  temporis,  praesti- 
tissie,  quodque  conveniens  esset  aliquot  centenis  millibus  hominum  longissimo  et  continuo 
tempore  ad  opus  adactis.  Nihil  autem  majus  et  operosius  in  iEgypto,  atque  ejus  Histo- 
ria  invenimus  exstructione  Pyramidum,  quas  ab  aliis,  aut  alio  tempore  exstructas  minime 
comstat."     Perizon.  Orig.  uEgypt.  c.  21.  p.  388.    L.  Bat.  1711. 

(5)  Exod.  ii.  23. 

(6)  See  Pocockes  Descript.  of  the  East,  vol.  I.  p.  53.  Lond.  1/43.  It  stands 
abo>ut  three  miles  and  a  half  to  the  south  of  the  Pyramids  of  Saccara,  near  the  village  of 
Memshieh  Dashour,  and  is  called  Ktoube-el-  Menshieh,  the  bricks  of  Menshieh.  It  is 
mentioned  by  Herodotus  {Euterpe,  c.  136).  Greaves,  who,  though  an  accurate  writer, 
was  not  always  an  accurate  observer,  after  two  visits  made  to  the  Pyramids,  and  having, 
as  he  says,  (Pref.  to  Pyramidog.  Lond.  16-16.)  examined  even  the  neighbouring  desert, 
knew  not  the  existence  of  this  pyramid.  And  he  urges  this  as  a  reason  for  not  sub- 
scribing to  the  opinions  of  those  modern  writers  (Spondanus  de  Ccemeteriis  Sacris,  lib.  i. 
par .  1.  cap.  6.  Brodceus  Epigr.  Grcec.  sk  vaovt;)  who  believed  the  Pyramids  to  have  been 
erected  by  the  Israelites:  "The  sacred  Scriptures,"  says  he,  "  clearely  expressing  the 
slaverie  of  the  Jewes  to  have  consisted  in  making  brick,  whereas  all  these  Pyramids 
consist  of  stone."  (Pyramidographia,  p.  1.)  Exactly  after  the  same  manner,  he  neg- 
lected to  notice  (he  petrified  lentils  described  by  Straboj  and  then  accounts  for  their 
disappearance,  by  supposing  them  to  have  been  "  consumed  by  time,  or  scattered  by  the 
wimds"."!  or,  "  buried  in  sand."    Ibid.  p.  lig. 


BBBHW 


190 


CHAP.  V. 


THE    PYRAMIDS. 

which  this  people  inhabited  the  country,  we  may  refer  to 
the  testimony  of  Manetho,  whose  authority  is  respected  by 
Josephus,  and  who,  from  his  situation  as  an  Egyptian 
priest1,  had  access  to  every  record  preserved  in  the  sacred 
archives  of  the  country.  Manetho  affirms,  that  these  struc- 
tures were  begun  by  the  fourth  king  of  Egypt,  during  the 
first  dynasty2;  which  carries  their  antiquity  back  to  a  period 
earlier  than  the  age  of  Abraham s.  Of  this  nature  are  the 
records  required  by  the  last  question  in  the  proposed  inquiry, 
without  having  recourse  to  any  of  the  writers  of  Greece 
or  Italy.  As  for  the  traditions  which  refer  the  origin  of 
these  monuments  to  the  age  of  the  Israelites  in  Egypt,  these 
exist  not  only  among  the  Arabians,  but  also  among  the 
Jews  and  Egyptians.  The  author  of  a  book  entitled  Morat 
Alz&nan,  cited  by  Greaves  in  his  Pyramidographia* ,  speaking 
of  the  founders  of  the  Pyramids,  says,  "  some  attribute  them 
to  Joseph,  some  to  Nimrod."    The  Arabians  distinguished 

the 


(l)  Josephus  says,  that  the  care  and  continuance  of  the  public  records  were  the  pe- 
culiar province  of  the  priests.  {Fid.  lib.  i.  cont.  Apion.)  Manetho  belonged  to  the  College 
at  Helopolis,  the  very  seat  of  Egyptian  science.  His  testimony  was  preferred  by  Marsham 
to  that  of  Josephus  himself.  However,  it  should  be  acknowledged  that  Perizonius,  who 
considered  the  Dynasties  of  Manetho  as  fabulous,  attacked  Marsham  upon  this  ground ; 
describing  him  as  "  absurdissima  quceque  Manethonis  recipiendi  studiosior,  quam  speciosa 
Joseph."    Vid.  Jac.  Perizonii  yEoyrT.  Orig.  Invest,  cap.  21.  p.  384.  L.  Bat.  1711. 

(2'  "  Etenim  Manetho  jam  in  dynastia  1.  quartum  ejus  regem,  Venephen,  Pyra- 
midos  erexisse  tradit ;  ac  dein,  in  dynastia  iv.  regem  secundum,  Suphin,  pyramidum 
maxirnam  exstruxisse."  Perizon.  JEgyptiacce,  cap.  21.  p.  383.  L.  Bat.  \y  11.  This 
authority,  admitted  by  Marsham,  is  contemned  by  the  author  from  whom  it  is  now 
cited. 

(3)  Ibid.  p.  384. 

(4)  P.  6.    Lond.  1646. 


THE    PYRAMIDS. 


191 


tihe  Pyramids  by  the  appellation    of  Djebel   Pharooun,  or    ,  chap. 
Pharaoh" s  Mountains' ';  and  there  is  not  one  of  these  Oriental 
writers  who  does  not  :onsider  them  as  antient  sepulchres6. 

Upon  these  premises,  thus  derived  from  sources  that  are 
not  liable  to  the  objections  urged  by  Pauw,  being  wholly 
independent  of  any  nctions  which  he  supposes  the  Greeks 
to  have  blended  with  their  accounts  of  the  Pyramids,  the 
following  conclusions  may  perhaps  appear  to  be  warranted : 

1 .  That  the  Hebrews  inhabited  Egypt  in  the  period  to 
which  the  Pyramids  may  be  referred. 
That  the  Pyramids  contain  an  existing  document  cor- 
responding with  the  mode  of  interment  practised  by 
this  people,  and  were  therefore  intended  as  sepulchres. 
That  the  present  state  of  the  principal  pyramid  may 
possibly  be  owing  to  the  circumstance  related  in  their 
history,  of  the  removal  of  Joseph's  reliques  from  the 
So?™  in  which  they  had  been  preserved. 
That  from  the  records  of  Jewish  and  Egyptian  his- 
torians, as  well  as  from  the  traditions  of  the  country, 
we  may  attribute  the  origin  of  some  of  the  Pyramids 
to  the  Hebrews  themselves  ;  and  may  assign  to  others 
a  period  even  more  remote  than  the  age  in  which  this 
people  inhabited  Egypt. 

In 


2. 


3. 


4. 


(5)  See  also  Egmont  and  Hey  man's  Travels,  vol.  II.  p.  85.  Lond.  1759. 

(6)  See  the  Extracts  from  lbn  Aid  Alhokm,  and  the  Arabian  authors,  as  given  by 
Greaves,  &c.  &c. 


■a--*<>?>?f->,H:i?       er>>.: 


■■■■■■1 


192 


CHAP.  V. 


Further  View 
of  the  Subject. 


THE    PYRAMIDS. 

In  the  principal  point  to  be  determined,  namely,  the  use 
for  which  these  structures  were  erected  by  the  Antients, 
there  cannot  remain  even  the  shadow  of  a  doubt.  That 
they  were  sepulchres,  has  been  demonstrated  beyond  the 
possibility  of  a  contradiction  ;  and  in  proving  this,  all  the  best 
authorities  have  long  concurred1.  In  their  whole  extent 
from  Dj  iza  to  Saccara,  the  Pyramids,  and  all  their  contiguous 
subterranean  catacombs,  constituted  one  vast  coemetery, 
belonging  to  the  seat  of  the  Memphian  kings2,  the  various 
parts  of  which  were  constructed  in  different  periods  of  time. 
Some  learned  writers  however,  as  Shaw,  and  the  author  of 
Philosophical  Dissertations  on  the  Egyptians  and  Chinese, 
have  exercised  their  erudition  in  attempting  to  prove  that 
the  Pyramids  were  mythological  repositories  of  Egyptian 
superstitions ;  and  they  have  described  the  Soros,  in  direct 
opposition  to  Strabo.  either  as  a  tomb  of  Osiris3,  or  as  one 
of  those  Kitnai  iepal  in  which  the  priests  kept  their  sacred 
vestments4.  Nor,  perhaps,  would  these  conjectures  have 
appeared  so  visionary,  if  those  distinguished  writers  had 
carried  the  investigation  somewhat  further.  If  the  connection 
between  antient  Egyptian  mythology  and  Jewish  history 
had  been  duly  traced,   an  evident  analogy,   founded  upon 

events 


(1)  See  the  authorities  and  arguments  stated  by  Perizonius,  Origines  JEgyptiacce, 
cap.  21.  p.  393.  L.  Bat.  17 11.  Also  Greaves  's  Pyramidographia,  p.  43.  Lond.  l(J4(5. 
&c.  tSfc. 

(2)  Td(j>oi  tuv  fiaaiXiav.  (Stralon.  Geog.  lib.  xvii.  p.  1145.  Ed.  Oxon.)  In  the 
threatenings  denounced  against  the  Israelites  (Hosea,  ch.  ix.v.  0.)  it  is  said,  "Memphis 

SHALL  BURT  THEM." 

(3)  See  Pauw  on  the  Egypt,  and  Chinese,  vol.  II.  p.  48.    Lond.  1/95. 

(4)  See  Shaw's  Travels,  p.  371.    Lond.  1757. 


THE    PYRAMIDS. 

events  which  have  reference  to  the  earliest  annals  of  the  He- 
brews, might  be  made  manifest.  The  subject,  of  itself  suffi- 
cient to  constitute  a  separate  dissertation,  would  cause  too 
much  digression ;  although  an  endeavour  may  be  made  to 
concentrate  some  of  its  leading  features  within  the  compass 
of  a  note 5.  The  main  object  at  present  is  to  prove  the  inten- 
tion for  which  the  Pyramids  were  erected ;  and  in  this,  it 

is 


193 


(5)  Perhaps,  with  due  attention  to  facts  collected  from  antient  and  modern  writers, 
the   whole   connection    might   be   traced  between    the  history  of  Joseph,  and  the 
Egyptian  mythology  founded  thereon.     For  this  purpose,  the  reader  may  be  referred 
to  all  that  Vossius  has  written  upon  the  subject  (Fid.  lib.i.  cap.2%  torn.  I.  p.  213.  de 
Theologid  Gentili :   Amst.  1642),  who  considers  the  Egyptian  Apis  as  a  symbol  of  the 
Patriarch.     He  supports  his  opinion  by  authority  from  Ruffinus  {Histories  Ecclesiastic*, 
lib.il  cap.  33.);  and  derives  evidence  from  Augustin,    (Script.  Mirab.  Li.  c.\5.)   to 
prove  that  the  Egyptians  placed  an  Ox  near  the  sepulchre  of  Joseph.     It  appears  also, 
from  Suidas  (voce  Idpartt),  that  Apis  was  by  some  considered  a  symbol  of  Joseph  : 
"  Quo  ut  magis  inclinem  facit,"  observes  Vossius,  "  quod  Josephus  Deuteronomii  cap. 
penult,  commute  17,  bos  vocetur,  secundum  codices  Hebrceos."  But  if  Apis  were  the  same 
as  Joseph,  so  must  also  be  Serapis  (or  Sarapis,  as  it  was  written  by  the  Greeks)  and 
Osiris  j  for  these  are  but  different  names  of  the  same  mythological  personage.   "  Faclus 
est  Joseph  quasi  rex  totius  Mgypti,  et  vocaverunt  eum  Apis"  says  Kircher  (CEdip.AEgypt. 
torn.  I.  p.  196.  Horn.  i652) ;   and  he  gives  us  from  Varro  the  reason  why  he  was  called 
Serapis  :    "  Quia  Area  (inquit  Varr)  in  quapositus  erat,  Greece  seu  Mgyptiace  dicitur 
lopoc,  undelopdirc?, [quasi  Area  Apis,  deinde,  una  litera  mutata,  lepairts  dictus  est."  Also, 
according  to  Strabo,  Apis  was  the  same  as  Osiris.   "O?  cittiv  ("Am?)  6  avrot  Kal 
'Oarlpis  (lib.  xvii.  p.  1144.    Ed.  Oxon.)     Hence  it  may  be  inferred,  that  as  Joseph, 
together  with  the  names  of  Apis  and   Serapis,  also  bore  that  of  Osiris,  the  annual 
mournings  which  took  place  in  Egypt  for  the  loss  of  Osiris'  body,  and  the  exhibition  of 
an  empty  Soros  upon  those  occasions,  were  ceremonies  derived  from  the  loss  of  Joseph's 
body,  which  had  been  carried  away  by  the  Hebrews  when  they  left  the  country.    Julius 
Firmicus,  who  nourished  under  the  two  sons  of  Gonstantine,  endeavours  to  explain  the 
reason  (De  Error.  Profan.  Relig.)  why  Joseph  was  called  Serapis.     In  opposition  to 
the  origin  assigned  by  Varro,  for  the  name  Serapis,  it  may  be  observed,  that  Plutarch 
(De  Isid.  et  Osir.  c.  29.)   derides  a  notion  which  prevailed  maintaining  that  Serapis 
was  no  God,  but  a  mere  name  for  the  sepulchral  chest  where  the  body  of  Apis  was  de- 
posited :    Ovk  ttvat  Of 6v   tov  Idpairiv,   dWd  rrjv  'AlIIAOS  20PON  ovrot  ovofid- 
frtrdai.     But   things  which  were  rejected  by  the  Greeks,  as  inconsistent  with  ttheir 
VOL.  III.  2  c'  religious 


CHAP.  V. 


«Ri  Immm  ESSB 


194 


CHAP.  V. 


THE    PYRAMIDS. 

is  hoped  we  may  succeed.     If  these  were  the  only  monu-   , 
ments  of  the  kind  belonging  to  the  antient  world,  and  we 

had 


religious  opinions,  may  come  much  nearer,  on  this  account,  to  truth,  and  to  our  own. 
A  very  popular  notion  has  long  been  entertained,  concerning  an  extraneous  idol  brought 
to  Alexandria,  by  one  of  the  Ptolemies,  from  the  coast  of  Pontus,  which  received  the 
appellation  of '  Serapis  upon  its  arrival  in  Egypt.   But  the  word  Serapis  is  purely  Egyptian 
(Vid.  Jablonski  Panth.  u^gypt.  torn.  I.  p.  232.  Franco/.  1750);  and  there  is  something  ex- 
tremely  improbable  in  the  circumstances  of  the  importation.    That  any  of  the  Ptolemies, 
cooped  as  they  were  in  Egypt,  should  insult  the  inhabitants  of  the  country  (Macrobius, 
Saturnal.  1. 1  C.J.)  by  the  introduction  of  a  strange  Divinity  from  the  Euxine,  has 
always  worn  an  appearance  of  fable.    Jablonski  has  refuted  the  opinion,  by  proving 
that  Serapis  was  worshipped   in   Memphis  long  before   the   time   of  the  Ptolemies 
(Panth.  Egypt,  lib.il  c.  5.  p.  233.    Franc.  1750),   and  by  shewing  from  Eustathius 
'that  the  whole  story  of  this  Sinopic  Deity  was  derived  from  Sinopium  near  Memphis. 
Thus   Tacitus,   "  Sedem,    ex   qua   transient   (Serapis)   Memphin   perhibent,    inclytam 
olim,  et  veteris  Egypti  columen."      Yet  Gibbon  seems  to  imply  (Hist.  c.  28.  vol.  V. 
*  QO.   Lond.  1807)  that  both  the  name  and  the  idol  were  alike  strangers  to  the  priests 
f  Eevpt  •  and  he  sneers  at  the  notion  of  Vossius,  that  the  Patriarch  Joseph  had  been 
adored  in  the  country  as  the  Bull  Apis,  and  the  God   Serapis.    (Ibid.    See  Note  36.) 
The   reader   may   consult   the   learned   observations   of   Bochart    upon    this    subject 
(Hieroxoicon,  torn.  I.  l\\.  c.  34.  pp.  345,  346,  347,  348),  and  also  of  Jablonski,  upon 
which   Gibbon  may  have  grounded  his  scepticism,  although  he  has  not  mentioned 
his  authors.    The  following  passage  of  Apollodorus,  as  cited  by  Bochart,  proves  the 
name  Serapis  to  be  of  antient  date  in  Egypt :    "  Apis,  relatus  inter  Deos,  Sakapis  appel- 
latus  est."    Upon  the  identity  of  Serapis  and  Joseph  many  learned  writers  are  agreed. 
"  Sunt  qui  Apim  et  Serapidem  unum  Numen  putarinl,  et  per  Serapidem  Josephum 
intellexerint ;  neg  veritati  contraria  videtur  ii^ec  opinio."     (Cunceus  de  Repub. 
Hel.Annot.Nicolai,c\7.  not.  14.    Thes.  Antiq.  Sac.  Ugolini,  Venet.  1745.)    Indeed, 
the  numbor  of  authors  and  commentators  by  whom  this  opinion  is  maintained  may  be 
considered  as  more  than  a  counterpoise  to  the  objections  of  Bochart  and  of  Jablonski. 
Tirinus,   (Annot.  in  Sulpit.  Sever,  p.  50.  Ed.  Horn.    L.  Bat.  1654,)  in  addition  to  the 
authorities  above  cited,  mentions  also  Pierius  and  Baronius :  and  he  further  observes, 
"  Idque  patet,  turn  ex  nomine  Serapis  quod  Bovem  notat ;  turn  ex  nomine  Arsaph, 
quo  teste  Plutarcho,  Osiris  vocabatur,  levi  commutatione  ex  Joseph  facta  :  turn  ex  Hiero- 
glyphics, quibus  Osiridem  designabant,  puta  figura  bovis  seu  vituli,  notis  Lunae  et  Solis 
insignia :  item  juvenis  imberbis  cum  modio  et  calatho  in  capita.     Quae  in  Josephum, 
ejusVe  boves  et  spicas,  et  aetatem,  et  astrologiae  peritiam,  ad  amussim  quadrant.    Sub- 
scribunt  Clemens  Alexandrinus,  Augustinus,  A  Lapide,  et  Bonfrerius."     See  also  Spencer 
deLeg.Heb.  lib.  Hi.  pp.  270,271.  Beyer,  Hen.  VVeghorst.devero  DeiCultu,pag.m.2b. 
edit.  Kilon.  167 1.    Michael.  Not.  ad  Gaffarell.  Curiosiiates,  edit.  Hamburg.  &c.  &c. 


THE    PYRAMIDS. 


195 


had  not  the  evidence  afforded  by  the  Soros  in  the  principal 
pyramid,   a  greater  degree   of  difficulty  might  oppose  the 
undertaking.     But,  in  addition  to  the  testimony  offered  by 
this  remarkable   relique,  we  are  enabled,   by  collateral  evi- 
dences derived  from   other  countries,  to   establish,   beyond 
all  controversy,  the  truth  of  their  sepulchral  origin.    It  has 
been  already   shewn,  that,  of  themselves,   they   constitute 
but    remaining   traces   of    a    custom    common    to   all    the 
nations    of   antiquity1.     An   antient  Tumulus    for    men  of 
princely  rank  seems  very  generally  to  have  consisted  of  three 
parts ;   the  Soros,  the  Pile,  or  Heap,  and  the  Stele.    Of 
these,  Homer  mentions  two  at  once  ;  as  being  those  parts  of 
a  Tumulus  which  were  externally  visible2.     As  the  practice 
occasionally  varied   among    different  nations,    only  one  of 
these  was  used  to  denote  an  antient  burying-place.     In  Asia 
Minor,   the  Soros,  of  gigantic  proportion,  sometimes  stood 
alone,  without  the  Pile  and  the  Stele  \     In  Scythia,  and  in 
many  Northern  countries,  the  Pile  only  appears4.    In  Greece 
perhaps,  although  no  instance  is  decidedly  known,  the  simple 
Stele,  without  the  pile,  might  serve  to  denote   the  grave  of 
a   deceased    person5.      The   Pile,    or  Heap,   was   generally 
nothing  more  than  a  lofty  mound  of  earth.     More  rarely,  it 

was 


chap.  v. 


Hermetic 
Stela;. 


(1)  "  Apud  majores,  nobiles  aut  sub  montibus,  aut  in  montibus,  sepeliebantur  j 
unde  natum  est,  ut  supra  cadavera  aut  Pyramides  fierent,  aut  ingentes  collocarentur 
coliumnae."     Servii  Comment,  in  Virgil. 

(2)  Tvufiu  re,  IrtjXn  re.    II.  IT.  456.  See  Greek  Marbles,  p.  2.    Camb.  I8O9. 

(3)  See  the  account  of  the  sepulchres  at  Telmessus,  in  the  former  Section,  Ch.  vm. 

(4)  See  Part  the  First  of  these  Travels.     Vignette  to  Chap.  xi. 

(5)  Kat  Dtj/Xjjv  iv\avTa  yevitrBat,  o'lct  vtxpip.  Clem.  Alex.  Strom,  lib.  v.  Oxon.  1/'15. 
The  great  Column  at  Alexandria,  called  "  Pompey's  Pillar,"  may  possibly  be  an  example 
of  the  Stele,  standing  alone;  as  will  be  shewn  in  a  subsequent  Chapter. 


wr  ■  «**.-.T.^y,  Vtfi*:     V  ii::  *■«$ 


196 


CHAP.  V. 


Mexican 
Pyramids. 


THE    PYRAMIDS. 

was  a  magnificent  pyramid.  A  square  platform  was  left, 
in  some  instances,  upon  the  tops  of  those  pyramids,  as  a 
pedestal  for  the  Stdle.  This  seems  to  have  been  the  case 
upon  the  summit  of  the  principal  pyramid  of  Dj'iza'.  Hence 
originated  the  appellation  of  Hermetic  Stelce  (because  Hermes 
had  the  care  of  the  dead),  and  air  the  Grecian  Mythology 
connected  with  them2.  In  America,  pyramids  were  built 
in  this  manner  by  the  antient  inhabitants  of  that  great 
continent.  That  those  pyramids  were  also  temples,  is  true ; 
because  all  antient  sepulchres  were  objects  of  worship,  and 
tombs  were  the  origin  of  temples3.  The  Spaniards,  when 
they  first  arrived  in  Mexico,  found  pyramids  as  temples 
there  ;  but  they  were  sepulchres.  Gage  describes  one  of 
these4 :  "  It  was,"  says  he,  "  a  square  mount  of  earth  and 
stone,  fifty  fathoms  long  every  way,  built  upwards  like 
to  a  pyramid  of  Egypt,  saving  that  the  top  was  not  sharp, 
but  plain  and  flat,  and  ten  fathoms  square.  Upon  the  west 
side  were  steps  up  to  the  top."  By  the  account  Gemelli 
gives5  of  the  Mexican  Pyramids  at  Teotiguacan  (signifying, 
in  the  language  of  the  country,  a  Place  of  Gods,  or  of 
Adoration),  they  were  erected,  like  the  Egyptian  Pyramids, 

for 


(1)  Vansleb  mentions  marks  of  this  kind,  which  he  supposes  were  intended  for  a 
Colossus.  "  On  remarque  encore  les  enfoncures  qui  y  sont,  lesquelles  servoient  pour 
tenir  ferme  la  base  du  Colosse  qui  y  estoit  pose."  Relation  d'Egypte,  p. 141.  Paris,  16J7- 
It  was  in  all  probability  a  Stele ;  but  we  did  not  perceive  any  such  appearance ;  neither 
did  Pococke,  as  he  confesses,  p.  43.  vol.  I.  Descript.  of  the  East,  Lond.  1743. 

(2)  See  the  former  Section  of  Part  II.  of  these  Travels,  p.  352.  A  dog  is  often  repre- 
sented upon  the  sepulchral  Stel?e,  as  a  type  of  the  Egyptian  Mercury.  This  Deity  ap- 
pears upon  Egyptian  monuments,  represented  by  a  human  figure  with  a  dog's  head. 

(3)  See  Part  I.  of  these  Travels,  Ch.  xvn.  p.  399.    Second  Edit. 

(4)  Survey  of  the  West  Indies,  Chap.  xn.    Lond.  1 6/ "J, 

(5)  Travels,  lib.  ii.  c.  8.   Part  6. 


THE     PYRAMIDS. 

tor  sepulchres.  The  first  he  saw  was  a  Pyramid  of  the  Moon, 
about  one  hundred  and  fifty  feet  in  height.  "It  was  made," 
he  says,  "of  earth,  in  steps,  like  the  Pyramids  of  Egypt;" 
and  on  the  top  of  it  was  a  great  stone  idol  of  the  Moon. 
The  Pyramid  of  the  Sun  was  about  forty  feet  higher,  and 
upon  the  top  of  it  a  vast  statue  of  the  Sun :  And  as  these 
pyramids  were  erected  for  devotion,  so  were  they  for  sepul- 
chres. The  same  author  further  informs  us,  that  within  the 
Pyramid  of  the  Moon  were  vaults  where  their  kings  were 
buried,  for  which  reason  the  road  to  them  is  called  Micaotli, 
that  is  to  say,  The  Way  of  the  Dead.  Precisely,  too,  after 
the  manner  in  which  the  Pyramids  of  Egypt  are  sur- 
rounded by  sepulchres  of  a  more  diminutive  form,  the 
Mexican  Pyramids  have,  as  Gemelli  tells  us,  "  about  them, 
several  little  artificial  mounts,  supposed  to  be  burying-places 
of  lords."  Another  instance  of  a  similar  nature,  and  more 
remarkable  for  the  similitude  it  bears  to  the  principal 
pyramid  of  Egypt,  was  found  in  the  same  country, 
about  thirty  years  ago,  by  some  hunters.  This  is  the  great 
pyramid  of  Papantla,  mentioned  by  Humboldt ;  for,  in  this, 
mortar  may  he  discerned  in  the  interstices  between  the  stones. 
It  is  an  edifice  of  very  high  antiquity,  and  was  always  an 
object  of  veneration  among  the  Mexicans.  Humboldt  says 
"  they  concealed  this  monument  for  centuries,  from  the 
Spaniards;"  and  that  it  was  discovered  accidentally,  in  the 
manner  that  has  been  mentioned. 


197 


CHAP.  V. 


(6)  Travels  in  New  Spain,  vol.  II.  p.  259. 


CHAP. 


1^1«'  ' 


CHAP.   VI. 


CHAP.  VI. 


Monastery  of 
the  Pro- 
pagandists. 


GRAND    CAIRO    TO    ROSETTA. 

Monastery  of  the  Propagandists  —  Marriage  Procession  —  Visit  to  the 
Reis  Effendi — First  Intelligence  concerning  the  Alexandrian  Soros 
— Preparation  for  Departure — Arrival  of  the  Covering  for  the  Caaba 
at  Mecca  —  Escape  of  four  Ladies — Passage  down  the  Nile  — 
Chemical  Analysis  of  the  Water  and  Mud  of  the  River — Remains  of 
the  City  of  Sais  —  Antiquities  —  Bronze  Reliques  —  Aratriform 
Sceptre  of  the  Priests  and  Kings  of  Egypt — Hieroglyphic  Tablet — 
Enumeration  of  the  Archetypes — Curious  Torso  of  an  antient  Statue 
— Triple  Hierogram  with  the  Symbol  of  the  Cross  —  its  meaning  ex- 
plained— Mahallet  Abouali — Berinbal — Ovens  for  hatching  Chickens 
— Tombs  at  Massora  Shibrecki — Birds — Arrival  at  Rosetta — Mr. 
Hammer  sails  for  England — State  of  Rosetta  at  this  season  of  the  year. 

After  our  return  to  Cairo,  we  visited  the  library  of  the 
Propaganda     Society,     in    a    monastery   belonging    to    the 

Missiona- 


GRAND    CAIRO. 


199 


Missionaries,  and  found  a  collection  of  books  as  little  worth 
notice  as  that  of  the  Franciscans  at  Jerusalem.  It  consisted 
wholly  of  obscure  writings  on  points  of  faith,  the  volumes 
being  mixed  together  in  a  confused  manner.  From  their 
appearance,  it  was  evident  they  had  not  been  opened  by 
their  present  possessors.  We  were  shewn  some  drawings 
of  the  Costumi  of  Cairo,  which  had  been  made  by  one  of 
the  Monks,  very  ill  done,  but  worth  seeing,  as  they  con- 
tained a  representation  of  every  thing  remarkable  in  the 
manner  of  the  inhabitants  of  this  city.  The  church  be- 
longing to  the  convent  is  kept  in  very  neat  order.  The 
Copts  have  a  place  allowed  them  for  baptism,  near  to  the 
altar.  The  Coptic  language  is  now  preserved  only  in  their 
manuscripts.  We  purchased  a  folio  manuscript  copy  of  the 
Gospels,  finely  written,  which  had  the  Arabic  on  one  side, 
and  the  Coptic  on  the  other.  In  the  Coptic  service  of  the 
church,  the  prayers  are  read  in  Arabic,  and  the  gospels  in 
Coptic.  Browne,  who  has  written  the  best  account  of 
Cairo,  computes  the  number  of  its  mosques  at  more  than 
three  hundred,  and  the  total  population  of  the  city  as  equal 
to  three  hundred  thousand  souls '. 

In  our  road  to  the  English  head- quarters,  from  the  convent 
of  the  Propagandists,  we  met  a  marriage  procession.  First  came 
a  person  bearing  a  box,  looking  like  the  kind  of  show  which 
is  carried  about  the  streets  of  London,  covered  with  gilding 

and 


CHAP.  VI. 


Marriage 
Procession. 


(l)  Travels  in  Africa,  p.  71.  Land.  1799-  The  reader,  wishing  for  a  further  sta- 
tistical detail,  may  be  referred  to  the  volume  published  by  this  faithful,  intelligent,  and 
most  enterprising  traveller. 


200  GRAND    CAIRO. 

chap.  vi.  and  ornaments.  The  use  of  this  we  could  not  learn.  Next 
followed  two  boys,  superbly  dressed,  and  mounted  on  very 
fine  horses  richly  caparisoned.  Two  grooms  were  in 
attendance  upon  each  of  these  horses.  Then  followed  a 
great  number  of  men,  on  foot.  After  these  came  the 
bride,  beneath  a  canopy  supported  by  four  men,  and  pre- 
ceded by  a  female  attendant,  who,  as  she  walked,  continued 
to  fan  her  with  one  of  the  large  semicircular  fans  of  the 
country,  made  of  differently  coloured  feathers.  The  bride 
was  entirely  covered  by  a  veil  of  scarlet  crape,  spangled 
from  head  to  foot:  she  was  supported  on  each  side  by 
a  female,  veiled,  according  to  the  common  costume  of 
the  country.  Then  followed  a  band  of  musicians,  playing 
upon  hautboys  and  tambours.  After  the  musicians,  came 
a  party  of  Almehs,  screaming  the  Alleluia,  as  before 
described.  The  procession  closed  with  a  concourse  of  people 
of  all  descriptions. 

On  Monday,  August  the  thirty-first,  we  were  on  a  visit 
to  the  Reis  Effendi,  a  minister  of  the  Turkish  government, 
holding  a  situation  which  answers  to  the  office  of  our 
Secretary  of  State.  Two  of  the  principal  officers  in  the 
Turkish  army  were  sitting  with  him.  The  garden  belonging 
to  this  house  was  that  in  which  Kleber  was  assassinated. 
While  we  were  conversing  with  the  Reis,  a  Tartar  came 
into  the  room,  saying,  in  the  Turkish  language,  "  Alexandria 
is  taken ! "  Mr.  Hammer,  who  was  with  us,  interpreted 
what  the  Tartar  had  said.  To  our  great  amazement,  these 
Turkish  officers  received  this  important  intelligence  in  total 
silence,  without   the  slightest   change   of  countenance,    or 

even 


Visit  to  the 
Reii  Effendi. 


GRAND    CAIRO. 

even  a  look  towards  each  other.  Mr.  Hammer  said,  he 
believed  they  did  not  wish  the  people  of  Cairo  to  know  that 
the  English  were  the  captors.  After  a  few  minutes  t'.ius 
passed  in  silence  and  gravity,  they  began  to  whisper  to 
each  other,  and  then  wrote  with  a  reed  the  name  of  the 
Tartar  who  brought  the  news.  Afterwards,  addressing  us, 
the  Reis  asked  if  we  had  understood  what  the  Tartar  said. 
We  answered  in  the  affirmative.  "  I  do  not,"  said  he, 
"  place  much  faith  in  the  news  ;  but  I  will  send  to  the  Vizier, 
and  inquire  if  he  has  received  any  despatches."  Having 
done  this,  an  answer  came,  stating  that  Alexandria  was  not 
taken,  but  that  an  armistice  had  taken  place,  and  that  the 
French  were  in  treaty  for  the  surrender  of  the  city.  With 
this  welcome  information  we  took  our  leave,  and  determined 
instantly  to  hasten  to  the  British  camp,  and  to  make  Lord 
Hutchinson  acquainted  with  some  particulars  that  had  come 
to  our  knowledge  respecting  the  antiquities  collected  by  the 
trench  in  Egypt,  all  of  which  we  knew  to  be  deposited 
in  Alexandria. 

Previous  to  our  departure,  it  was  necessary  to  collect  as 
rtuch  additional  information  as  possible,  and  especially  with 
regard  to  the  Rosetta  Tablet ' ;  as  there  was  no  doubt  but 
erery  artifice  would  be  used  to  prevent  our  Commander- 
in-chief  from  becoming  acquainted  with  the  place  of  its 
concealment.      A   report   had    already    foeen    industriously 

circulated, 


201 


CHAP.  VI. 


(l)  See  the  account  given  of  the  discovery  by  Bouchard,  Part  II.  of  these  Travels. 
Set.  I.  Chap.  X.  p.  304,  Note  (3).    Broxbourne,  1812. 

VOL,  III.  2  D 


202 


CHAP.  VI. 


First  intel- 
ligence of  the 
Alexandrian 
Soros. 


GRAND    CAIRO. 

circulated,  that  this  stone  had  been  sent  to  France.    We 
therefore  waited  upon  the  only  person  capable  of  furthering 
our  views  in  this  respect,  and  whcse  name  it  is  no  longer 
necessary  to  conceal1.     This  person  was  no   other  than  the 
intelligent  Carlo  Rosetti,  whose  inquisitive  mind  and  situa- 
tion  in  the  country  had  enabled  him  to  become  acquainted 
with   every  thing  belonging  to  the  French  army.     In  the 
course  of  a  conversation  with  him  on  the   subject  of  the 
Rosetta  Stone,  which  he  maintained  to  be  still  in  Alexandria, 
he  informed   the   author,  that  something   even  of  a   more 
precious  nature  was  contained  among  the  French  plunder : 
that   they  had   removed,   by  force,  a  relique  long  held  in 
veneration  among  the  inhabitants  of  Alexandria,  after  every 
entreaty  had  failed  for  that  effect ;  and  that  they  entertained 
considerable  apprehension  lest  any  intelligence   concerning 
it   should  reach  the  English  army:    that  Menou,  and  some 
other  of  his  officers,  had  used  every  precaution  to  prevent 
the   people  of  Alexandria  from  divulging  the   place  of  its 
concealment,  before  it  could  be  conveyed  beyond  the  reach 
of  our  forces. 

Signor  Rosetti' s  remote  situation,  with  regard  to  Alex- 
andria, prevented  his  giving  a  more  definite  history  of  this 
monument,  or  the  place  where  it  originally  stood.  It  was, 
he  said,  of  one  entire  piece  of  stone,  of  an  astonishing  size, 
and  of  a  beautiful  green  colour :  the  French  had  taken  it 
from  some  mosque,  where  it  was  venerated  by  the  Arabs  : 

and 


(l)  See  "  Tomb  of  Alexander,"  p.  31. 


GRAND    CAIRO. 


203 


ard  he  ended  by  giving  us  a  letter  addressed  to  one  of  the      chap,  vi. 
principal  merchants  in   Alexandria,  who,  upon   our  arrival 
in  that    city,   would   communicate   any  other  information 
we  might  require  upon  this  subject. 

The  following   day  was  passed  in  taking  leave   of  our    Preparation 

for  departure 

trends,  and  in  preparation  tor  our  departure.  We  had  from  Cairo, 
another  audience  of  the  Yizier,  who  made  several  inquiries 
abjut  the  Pyramids,  and  very  kindly  asked  if  there  were  any 
th.ng  else  in  Cairo,  or  its  neighbourhood,  which  we  might 
wish  to  see.  He  then  subjoined  a  few  pertinent  questions 
concerning  the  embalmed  birds  found  at  Saccara;  requesting 
at  the  same  time  that  we  would  send  him  one.  This  very 
rare  curiosity  in  a  Turk  surprised  us  ;  for,  in  general,  nothing 
can  exceed  either  their  ignorance  or  their  indifference,  as  to 
literary  intelligence.  We  sent  him  one  of  the  jars  which  con- 
tain the  Ibis,  unopened ;  and  another  with  the  lid  removed 
and  the  interior  visible,  that  he  might  examine  its  contents, 
if  he  wished  to  preserve  the  other  vessel  as  it  was  found. 
"When  we  rose  to  take  leave,  the  attendants  presented  each 
of  us  with  an  embroidered  handkerchief,  according  to  the 
usual  custom  in  the  East. 

This  day  the  tapestry  destined  for  the  covering  of  the    Arrival  of  the 

n       -L.  TVT  r  /~i  Covering  for 

Caaba  at  Mecca  arrived  from  Constantinople,  by  the  wav  ^^caaba  at 
of  Syria.  We  were  desirous  of  seeing  the  entry  into  Cairo 
of  the  cavalcade  by  which  it  is  accompanied,  but  found 
it  to  be  impossible,  from  the  extreme  danger  attending  it. 
Mr.  Hammer,  although  in  the  Arabian  dress,  dared  not  to 
venture  into  the  fanatical  and  furious  mob  that  had  as- 
sembled upon  the  outside  of  the  city.    The  people  ran  from 

every 


Mecca. 


204 


CHAP.  VI. 


Escape  of 
four  Ladies. 


GRAND    CAI1U 

every  house  and  corner  of  Cairo,  to  greet  its  coming ;  and 
happy  was  the  Mahometan  who  could  get  near*  enough  to 
kiss  a  part  of  the  trappings,  or  even  the  tail  of  the  camel  by 
which  it  was  carried.  After  parading  it  through  the  prin- 
cipal streets,  it  was  taken  to  the  Citadel,  to  be  kept  until  the 
great  Caravan  of  Pilgrims  began  its  march  to  Mecca.  Every 
house  in  Cairo,  upon  this  occasion,  displayed  the  most 
gaudy  hangings ;  but  the  principal  colours  were  blue,  scarlet, 
crimson,  and  yellow.  The  whole  city  was  one  scene  of  fes- 
tivity. In  several  houses  we  saw  a  figure  made  up  of  wool 
or  cotton,  to  resemble  a  sheep,  but  could  r?ot  learn  for 
what  purpose  it  was  so  placed. 

On  Wednesday  September  the  second,  at  twelve  o'clock, 
we  set  out  from  Cairo,  passing  along  the  Canal  in  our  djerm, 
and  having  on  board  four  ladies,  recommended  to  us  for 
protection  by  the  Propaganda  Missionaries.  Mr=  Hammer 
was  also  on  board,  and  rendered  us  great  service  in  this 
dangerous  undertaking,  by  being  in  his  Oriental  habit.  We 
placed  the  women  in  our  cabin,  concealed  by  lattice-work 
and  boughs,  Mr.  Hammer  and  the  rest  of  our  party  standing 
before  the  entrance.  The  banks  of  the  canal  were  co- 
vered by  Galeongics  and  Turkish  troops,  carousing,  and 
discharging  their  carabines.  Had  they  only  suspected  the 
presence  of  females  in  our  boat,  the  consequences  would 
have  been  dangerous  to  us ;  but  the  lives  of  these  ladies 
depended  upon  the  success  of  the  plan  adopted  for  their 
escape,  many  women  being  daily  sacrificed  by  the  Turks, 
in  consequence  of  having  been  married  to,  or  having  lived 
with  Frenchmen.    In  order  to  avoid  being  searched,  or  giving 

rise 


GRAM)  CAIRO  TO  ROSETTA. 


205 


rise  to  suspicion,  we  had  chosen  the  most  public  time  of  the 
day  for  passing  the  canal.  Our  Arab  boatmen  had  promised 
their  assistance;  and  they  were  \ery  faithful.  When  we 
entered  the  boat,  we  believed,  from  their  appearance,  that  our 
passengers  were  old  women.  They  sat  muffled  up,  and  com- 
pletely concealed  by  coarse  and  thick  veils,  which  covered  not 
only  their  faces  but  their  persons.  When  we  had  cleared  the 
canal,  and  reached  the  open  channel  of  the  river,  they  took 
off  their  veils,  and  we  were  surprised  to  find  that  they  were 
all  young.  One  of  them  was  very  beautiful;  she  had  been 
married  about  four  years  before ;  but  her  husband  dying  of 
the  plague,  during  the  last  summer,  had  left  her  a  widow. 
They  accompanied  us  as  far  as  Buiac,  when  meeting  with 
two  of  the  Propagandists  who  had  assisted  their  escape  from 
Cairo,  and  being  unable,  from  the  small  size  of  our  djerm, 
to  offer  them  suitable  means  of  conveyance  for  their  passage 
to  Rosetta,  we  engaged  the  cabin  of  a  large  barge  preparing 
to  descend  the  Nile,  where,  secluded  from  the  observation  of 
the  other  passengers,  they  might  have  secure  and  convenient 
accommodation. 

Upon  our  arrival  at  Bulac,  we  met  Lord  Hutchinson's  bro- 
ther upon  the  quay,  and  two  other  English  officers,  who  had 
just  arrived  with  despatches  for  the  Grand  Vizier,  containing 
news  of  the  capitulation  then  pending  between  our  Com- 
mander-in-chief and  General  Menou,  for  the  surrender  of 
Alexandria.  As  they  were  unable  to  speak  the  language  of 
the  country,  we  sent  our  interpreter  to  hire  a  party  of 
Arabs  to  conduct  them  to  the  English  head-quarters  in 
Cairo. 

At 


CHAP.  VI. 


■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■i^BHlHHHHHIi 


206' 


CHAP.  VI. 


Passage  down 
the  Nile. 


EGYPT.  0 

At  six  o'clock  p.  m.  we  embarked  again,  and,  having 
lowered  the  sails,  committed  our  djerm  to  the  rapidity 
of  the  river.  Its  course  might  rather  be  described  as 
a  torrent  than  as  a  current.  Although  a  strong  contrary 
wind  prevailed  during  the  whole  of  our  voyage  down  the 
Nile,  we  descended  with  even  greater  rapidity  than  we 
had  sailed  in  coming  from  Rosetta.  The  water  in  the 
Nilometer  of  Rhouda  had  risen  nine  feet  during  the  month 
of  August :  at  this  time  it  wanted  only  two  inches  of  ele- 
vation to  cover  entirely  the  whole  of  the  Corinthian  column 
on  which  the  height  of  the  inundation  is  measured,  and  it 
was  expected  to  rise  yet  for  twenty  days.  The  great  heats 
had  evidently  subsided ;  although  the  mercury  in  Fahrenheit's 
thermometer,  this  day  at  noon,  stood  at  ninety  degrees. 

As  we  left  Bulac,  we  had  one  of  the  finest  prospects 
in  the  world,  presented  by  the  wide  surface  of  the  Nile 
crowded  with  vessels,  the  whole  city  of  Cairo,  the  busy 
throng  of  shipping  at  the  quay,  the  Citadel  and  heights  of 
Mokatam,  the  distant  Said,  the  Pyramids  of  Djiza  and  Sac- 
cara,  the  Obelisk  of  Heliopolis,  and  the  Tombs  of  the  Sultans  ; 
all  these  were  in  view  at  the  same  time  ;  the  greater  objects 
being  tinged  with  the  most  brilliant  effect  of  light  it  is  pos- 
sible to  conceive  ;  while  the  noise  of  the  waters,  the  shouts 
of  the  boatmen,  and  the  moving  picture  everywhere  offered 
by  the  Nile,  gave  a  cheerful  contrast  to  the  stillness  of  the 
Desert,  and  the  steadfast  majesty  of  monuments,  beautifully 
described  by  a  classic  bard  as  "  looking  tranquillity."  We 
continued  our  progress  during  the  evening  and  the  whole  of 
the  night.    The  next  morning,  September  the  third,  we  found 

ourselves 


GRAND  CAIRO  TO  ROSETTA. 


207 


ourselves  at  Teranc,  and  went  on  shore  to  procure  a  little  milk 
for  our  breakfast.  Here  we  rilled  two  large  earthen  jars  with 
Nile  water;  and  having  rendered  them  air-tight,  we  luted 
them  carefully  with  the  mud  of  the  Nile :  then  placing 
them  in  wooden  cases,  we  filled  all  the  vacant  spaces  with 
the  same  substance.  The  mud  soon  became  dry,  and 
very  hard;  thus  preserving  the  jars  from  the  danger  of 
being  broken  by  any  shock  which  the  cases  containing 
them  might  afterwards  sustain ;  and  also,  by  the  total 
exclusion  of  atmospheric  air,  preventing  any  change  from 
taking  place  in  the  chemical  constituents  of  the  water. 
In  this  state  they  were  sent,  one  to  the  University  of 
Cambridge,  and  another  to  Professor  Jacquin  at  Vienna. 
It  is  not  yet  known  what  chemical  union  takes  place  in 
Nile  water,  when  the  addition  of  pounded  almonds  causes 
it  to  precipitate  the  substances  it  holds  in  a  state  of  imperfect 
solution :  this  is  the  common  mode  adopted  in  Egypt 
for  clarifying  the  water.  The  only  result  we  have  been  able 
to  obtain,  from  the  most  careful  chemical  analysis  of  the 
Nile  water,  proves  it  to  contain  the  carbonates  of  Magnesia, 
Lime,  and  Iron  ;  the  MUriat  of  Soda;  and  a  small  portion  of 
Silex  and  Alumine.  But  it  is  one  of  the  purest  waters 
known  ;  remarkable  for  its  easy  digestion  by  the  stomach, 
and  for  its  salutary  qualities  in  all  the  uses  to  which  it  is 
applied1.     The  mud,  or  slime,  left  by  this  water  is  found  to 

consist 


CHAP.  VI. 


Chemical  Ana- 
lysis of  the 
Water  and 
Mud  of  the 
River. 


(1)  "  L'eau  du  Nil  joint  d'une  grand  purete :  cette  qualite  la  rend  bien  precieuse, 
non  seulement  pour  la  preparation  des  alimens,  mais  encore  pous  les  ai  ts  chymiques  ou 
elle  pent  remplacer  l'eau  de  pluie  dont  ce  pays  est  prive,  et  l'eau  distillee."  La  Decade 
Egyptienne,  torn.  I,  p.  266.     Au  Kaire,  An.  7- 


HHH     ■ 


208 


CHAP.  VI. 


Remains  of 
the  City  of 
Sa'is. 


EGYPT. 

consist  principally  of  Alumine  in  a  state  of  great  purity  : 
it  contains  nearly  half  its  weight  of  this  substance  ;  the  rest 
is  carbonate  of  Lime,  Water,  Carbon,  Iron  oxide,  Silex,  and 
carbonate  of  Magnesia.  The  persons  concerned  in  agri- 
culture, in  Egypt,  regard  it  as  a  sufficient  manure,  without 
any  addition  of  dung1 :  this  they  reserve  for  other  purposes, 
and  principally  for  fuel. 

Having  received  information,  from  some  Bedouin  Arabs 
inhabiting  the  Delta,  of  Ruins  on  the  spot  marked  by 
D'Anville  as  the  situation  of  the  antient  City  of 
Sa'is,  we  determined  to  visit  them.  They  are  near  to 
a  village  now  called  S6'l  Hajar,  or  Se  el  Hajar2:  this 
name,  literally  translated,  signifies  "  The  antient  Sa'is.'" 
These  Ruins  were  not  observed  by  the  French  during 
their  residence  in  Egypt :  they  seem  to  have  been  igno- 
rant even  of  their  existence3.  The  first  notice  of  them 
by  Europeans  occurs  in  the  Travels  of  Egmont  and 
Heyman4 ;  and  Mr.  Bryant  refers  to  the  account  given  by 
those    Dutchmen,    in    his    observations    upon    the    locality 

of 


(1)  "  Agri  ita,pingue  hunt,  ut  stercoratione  non  egeant."  (Prosper  Alpinus.)  Vby. 
Decade  Egypt,  torn.  I.  p.  219. 

(2)  Mr.  Hamilton,  perhaps  more  judiciously,  writes  the  name  of  this  place 
Sa-el-Haggar.  (See  jEgyptiaca,  p.360.  Lond.  I8O9.)  It  has  been  here  written  as 
nearly  as  possible  to  the  manner  in  which  the  name  is  pronounced  upon  the  spot.  But 
the  Arabs  make  one  word  of  it ;  as  Selhajar ;  and  some  of  them  seemed  to  call  it 
Silhajar.     Egmont  and  Heyman  (vol.  II.  p.  1 13.   Lond.  1 75Q.)  wrote  it  Sa  el  Hajer. 

(3)  See  Denon's  account  of  the  observations  made  by  the  French  in  Upper  and 
Lower  Egypt. 

(4)  Travels  through  Part  of  Europe,  Asia  Minor,  &c.     Vol.  II.  p.  111.    Lond.  1759. 


RUINS    OF    SAIS. 

of  Zoan\  The  situation  of  Se'l  Hajar  is  not  laid  downi  in 
any  modern  map;  but  our  boatmen  were  acquainted  with,  it, 
and  they  informed  us  that  we  should  not  reach  it  before 
midnight.  We  therefore  ordered  them  to  anchor  as  soon 
as  they  came  near  to  the  village,  and  to  remain  there  until 
day-light.  The  velocity  with  which  we  proceeded  against 
a  violent  north-west  wind  quite  astonished  us.  Our  boat 
lay  upon  the  water  with  her  broadside  to  the  current,  and 
was  generally  held  in  this  position  by  the  crew ;  but 
sometimes  she  was  suffered  to  float  as  the  stream  carried 
her,  turning  about  in  all  possible  directions. 

The  next  morning,  Friday,  September  the  fourth,  being 
told  by  our  boatmen  that  we  were  close  in  with  Se'l 
Hajar,  we  rose  a  little  before  day-light,  to  take  a  hasty 
breakfast,  and  set  out  for  the  Ruins.  As  soon  as  the 
dawn  appeared,  we  landed  upon  the  eastern  side  of  the 
river,  a  little  to  the  south  of  Rachmanie ;  near  the  place 
where  a  canal,  passing  across  the  Delta,  joins  the  Pelusiac 
with  th<e  Canopic  branch  of  the  Nile.  About  half  a  mile 
from  the  shore  we  came  to  the  village  of  SS'l  Hajar,  and 
found  the  Arab  peasants  already  at  their  work.  They  were 
employed  in  sifting  soil  to  lay  upon  their  corn  land,  among 
evident  remains  of  antient  buildings.  The  present  village 
of  Sd'l  Hajar  seems  to  be  situated  in  the  suburban  district 
of  the  antient  city  ;  for  as  we  proceeded  hence,  in  an  eastern 
direction,  we  soon  discerned  its  vestiges.     Irregular  heaps, 

containing 


209 


CHAP.  VI. 


(5)  See  Observations  relating  to  various  Parts  of  Antient  History,  by  Jacob  Bryant,, 
p.  312.     Camb.1767, 

VOL.  III.  2  E 


k«Z 


HHBHHHiHi 


I9SE  IMUMMMW— MB  BjfllnDTin-'        ~   -r.i..  ...  ,  ..r  i   ,.    ...  .. 


■■H 


210 


CHAP.  VI. 


FROM  GRAND  CAIRO  TO  ROSETTA. 

containing  ruined  foundations  which  had  defied  the  labours 
of  the  peasants,  appeared  between  the  village,  and  some  more 
considerable  remains  farther  towards  the  north-east.  The 
earth  was  covered  with  fragments  of  antient  terra  cotia, 
which  the  labourers  had  cast  out  of  their  sieves.  At  the 
distance  of  about  three  furlongs  we  came  to  an  immense 
quadrangular  in  closure,  nearly  a  mile  wide,  formed  by  high 
walls  or  rather  mounds  of  earth  facing  the  four  points  of 
the  compass,  and  placed  at  right  angles  to  each  other,  so 
as  to  surround  a  spacious  area.  In  the  centre  of  this  was 
another  conical  heap,  supporting  the  ruins  of  some  building, 
whose  original  form  cannot  now  be  ascertained.  The  ram- 
parts of  this  inclosure  are  indeed  so  lofty,  as  to  be  visible 
from  the  river ;  although  at  this  distance  the  irregularity  of 
their  appearance  might  cause  a  person  ignorant  of  their  real 
nature  to  mistake  them  for  natural  eminences1.  In  their 
present  appearance,  they  seem  to  correspond  with  the  ac- 
count given   of  a  similar  inclosure  at  San,  or  Tanis2,  by  a 

friend 


(1)  See  the  Vignette  to  this  Chapter. 

(2)  It  m3y  be  proper  to  mention,  that  the  learned  Jacob  Bryant,  in  his  dissertation 
upon  the  situation  of  Zoan,  distinguishes  this  city  from  Tanis,  and  confounds  it  with 
Heliopolis  :  (See  Olservations  relating  to  various  Parts  of  Antient  History,  p.  301. 
Cami.  1767.)  Until  M.  Larcher  shall  have  written  his  promised  dissertation  upon  the 
two  cities  which  bore  the  name  of  Heliopolis,  and  better  evidence  be  given  for  the  notion 
of  a  Pseudo- Heliopolis  upon  the  Arabian  side  of  the  Nile,  the  following  localities  will  be 
here  assigned  for  the  three  cities,  Sai's,  Tanis,  and  Heliopolis  : — for  the  first,  Se'l  Hajar  ; 
for  the  second,  San  ;  for  the  third,  Matarieh.  M.  Larcher's  doubts  upon  this  subject 
are  so  closely  allied  to  the  following  remarks  made  by  Bryant,  that  it  is  impossible  to 
believe  they  had  not  a  common  origin  :  indeed,  the  French  writer  seems  almost 
to  have  literally  translated  Bryant's  words.     "  There  were  two  cities  named  Heliopolis  ; 

OF  WHICH  I  SHALL  HAVE  A  GREAT  DEAL  TO  SAY   HEREAFTER.        *      *     *      »      *       This  is 

a  cir- 


RUINS    OF   SAIS. 


811 


friend  of  our  party,  who  visited  the  Pyramids  with  us,  and  t  CHAP- VI- 
who  was  engaged  in  a  voyage  down  the  Nile  at  the  time 
we  were  employed  among  the  Ruins  of  Sais3.  The  water 
of  the  river,  in  consequence  of  the  inundation,  had  obtained 
access  to  this  inclosure,  so  as  to  form  a  small  lake  around 
the  conical  heap  of  ruins  which  stood  in  the  middle  of  the 
area.  Perhaps  it  was  thus  admitted  in  antient  times ;  as  the 
vast  rampart  of  the  inclosure,  both  in  its  bulk  and  ele- 
vation, render  it  well  calculated  to  contain  water.  The 
description  given  by  Herodotus  of  a  sepulchre"  at  Sais  is  so 
applicable  to  the  general  appearance  of  this  place,  that 
perhaps  the  evidence  it  affords  may  be  deemed  almost  con- 
clusive as  to  the  locality  of  the  city.  He  says  it  stood 
within  the  sacred  inclosure,  behind  the  temple  of  Minerva ; 
mentioning  also  a  shrine*,  in  which  were  obelisks  ;  and  near 

those 


a  circumstance  that:  has  escaped  the  notice,  not  only  of  all  the  moderns,  but  of  most  of 
the  Antients."  ('See  Bryant,  Observat.  &c.  p.  82.  Note  2.  Camb.  1767.)  "  II  y  avoit 
deux  villes,"  says  Larcher,  "de  ce  nom  (HeliopolisJ .  *  *  «  *  *  Ceci  auroit  besoin 
d'  etre  appuye  de  preuves,  mais  comme  cela  exigeroit  une  dissertation  fort  longue,  je 
:.e  ferai  probablement  dans  une  memoire  a  part.  Table  Geographique  de  I'His- 
toire  d'Herodote,  pp.  171,  172.    Paris,  1/86. 

(3)  William  Hamilton,  Esq.  F.  A.  S.  one  of  his  Majesty's  Under-Secretaries  of  State, 
author  of  "  Remarks  on  several  Parts  of  Turkey,"  of  which  only  Part  the  First,  under 
the  title  of  JEgypliaca,  has  yet  appeared.  It  is  to  be  hoped  that  Mr.  Hamilton's  other 
important  avocations  will  not  prevent  the  continuation  of  this  valuable  work.  For  his 
account  of  the  situation  of  San,  and  the  present  appearance  of  its  ruins,  see  JEgyptiaca, 
p.  382.  Lond.  I8O9.  A  Map  of  their  Topography,  and  a  Plan  of  the  Ruins,  as  they  were 
discovered  by  the  French,  are  given  in  Plate  xvu  of  Denon's  large  work.  In  the  same 
plate  may  be  seen  also  a  Plan  of  an  Inclosure  and  Ruins  near  Beibeth,  which  exactly  re- 
presents the  present  appearance  of  the  inclosure  at  Sais. 

(4)  Herodot.  Euterpe,  c.  170.  Herodotus  says  he  was  not  permitted  to  name  the 
person  to  whom  this  sepulchre  belonged. 

(5)  Tf/xtvoK.    Euterpe,  e.  170. 


FROM  GRAND  CAIRO  TO  ROSETTA. 

those  obelisks   a  lake,  flanked  with   stone,  equal  in  size  to 

the  Lake  Trocho'is   at  Delos.     But  the  form    of   the  lake, 

according    to    him,   was    circular.       Nocturnal   solemnities 

were  exhibited  upon  it,  according  to  a  custom  still  kept  up 

at   Grand    Cairo,    at   the    overflowing  of   the   Nile.      The 

solemnities  of  Minerva  at  Sais  were  reckoned  to  hold  the 

third  rank  in  importance  among  all  the  festivals  of  Egypt'. 

It  was  the  metropolis  of  Lower  Egypt2;  and  its  inhabitants 

were  originally  an  Athenian  colony.     Egmont  and  Heyman 

found  here  a  very  curious  Inscription3  in  honour  of  Marcus 

Aurelius  Antoninus,  its  benefactor,    certain  of  whose 

titles  are  given 4 : 

AYTOKPA- 


(1)  Herodot.  ibid.  c.  169.  The  principal  solemnities  were  held  at  Bubastus,  in 
honour  of  Diana.  Those  of  Busiris,  in  honour  of  Isis,  held  the  second  rank.  Minerva 
was  worshipped  at  -Saw  under  the  name  of  Neith,  according  to  Plato  and  Plutarch. 

(2)  Kai  >;  Id'tc  [xrjTpoiroXis  r^«.  Kara  j^upac.  Strabon.  Geogr.  lib.-x.xW.  p.  1137 
ed.  Oxo?i. 

(3)  Egmont  and  Heyman's  Travels,  vol.11,  p.  112.     Lond.  175Q. 

(4)  As  this  Inscription  is  the  only  one  which  has  been  found  by  the  moderns  at  Sais, 
in  any  legible  characters  3  and  is,  moreover,  materially  connected  with  the  history  of  the 
city  ;  and  as  the  work  which  contains  it  is  now  become  rare  ;  the  author  hopes  its 
repetition  here  will  not  be  deemed  superfluous. — Another  Inscription,  of  much  greater 
celebrity,  is  preserved  by  Plutarch  (De  hid.  et  Osir.  c.  Q.),  as  it  existed  upon  the 
pedestal  of  Minerva's  statue  at  Sais.  Kircher  has  attempted  to  shew  the  manner  in 
which  it  was  engraven.  It  was,  in  all  probability,  written  in  the  Sacred  characters  ;  but, 
if  it  were  a  Greek  inscription,  it  might,  from  its  antiquity  and  the  number  of  the  letters, 
have  stood  in  the  following  order  : 

ErnEiMinANTorEr 

ONOXKAIONKAI  EZO 
MENONKAITONEMON 

nEnAONOYAEixnne 

NHTOIAHEKAAYtEN 


RUINS    OF    SAIS. 

AYTOKPATOPAKAICAPA 
MAPKONAYPHAIONANTX2NEINON 
CEBACTONAPMHNIAKONMHAIKON 
nAPGIKONMEriCTON 

HnOAICTONEYEPTETHN 

They  saw  also  the  colossal  statue  of  a  female,  with  hiero- 
glyphics, the  head  of  which  had  been  broken  off  and  re- 
moved to  Cairo.  Fourteen  camel-loads  of  treasure  were 
said  to  have  been  found  among  the  Ruins.  Our  inquiry  after 
antiquities  was,  however,  for  a  long  time  unsuccessful ;  and 
we  began  to  despair  of  carrying  from  Sai's  any  thing  be- 
longing to  the  antient  city,  except  our  description  of  the 
place,  and  a  slight  sketch  of  the  in  closure,  as  seen  from  the 
river5.  The  French  had  so  often  stripped  and  terrified  the 
inhabitants  of  other  parts  of  the  Delta,  that,  although  Sa'is 
had  hitherto  escaped  their  visitation,  the  mere  coming  of 
strangers  filled  the  Arabs  with  distrust  and  alarm.  However, 
the  sight  of  a  fewnewly-coined/mrtffo  presently  subdued  their 
apprehensions,  and  we  were  surrounded  by  men,  women, 
and  children,  bringing,  as  at  Saccdra,  a  number  of  curious 
antiquities.  Among  these  were  various  fragments  of  antient 
sculpture,  formed  of  dark  grey  Granite,  of  Hornblende  Por- 
phyry*, and  of  the  sort  of  Trap  which  Winkelmann7  and 

others 


213 


CHAP.  VI. 


(5)  See  the  Vignette  to  this  Chapter. 

(6)  This  substance  is  the  Ner.  e  lianco  of  the  Italian  lapidaries  (See  Ferbers  Trav.  in 
Italy,  p.  217.  Lond.  \776-)  It  consists  of  white  opaque  crystals  of  Feldspar,  which  owe 
their  colour  to  decomposition,  imbedded  in  black  Hornblende.  The  word  Porphyry 
may  now  be  used  to  denote  any  compound  mineral  containing  crystals  of  Feldspar.  Thus 
we  have,  Hirnblende  Porphyry,  Pitchstone  Porphyry,  Serpentine  Porphyry,  &c.  &c. 

(7)  CEuwes  de  Winkelmann,  torn.  I.  p.  168.    Paris,  An  2  de  la  Republique. 


214 


FROM  GRAND  CAIRO  TO  ROSETTA. 


CHAP.  VI. 


Bronze 
Heliques. 


others'  have  called  green  basaltes.  This  last  substance  has  been 
described  as  one  of  the  hardest  materials  of  antient  art :  it  is 
certainly  one  of  the  most  durable,  for  the  works  executed  in 
it  retain  their  original  polish  as  perfect  as  when  they  issued 
from  the  hands  of  the  sculptor.  We  procured  also  a  number 
of  bronze  reliques.  From  the  state  of  decomposition  in 
which  these  appeared,  as  well  as  from  the  circumstances  of 
their  form,  they  seemed  to  be  of  high  antiquity.  The  bronze 
itself  has  since  been  analyzed,  and  is  found  to  consist  of 
copper  and  tin ;  a  compound  common  to  almost  all  the 
brazen  works  of  the  Antients.  We  bought  of  the  peasants 
a  bronze  tripod,  originally  intended  for  a  lamp  ;  also  a  small 
bronze  bust  of  Ammon,  with  the  remarkable  appendage  of 
tvings,  and  a  lions  paw  for  its  pedestal2.  Perhaps  it  was 
originally  an  antient  weight.  Its  very  great  antiquity  may 
be  determined  by  the  shape  of  the  wings,  which  are  curved 
upwards  from  the  back  of  the  head.  This  peculiarity  is 
found  only  in  the  works  of  artists  belonging  to  the  earliest 
ages,  as  we  learn  from  the  sculpture  and  coinage  of  Greece, 
particularly  of  Corinth.  They  brought  also  a  bronze 
image  of  Orus,  formerly  worn  as  an  amulet,  together  with 
a  number  of  Lares  and  other  amulets,  similar  to  those 
already  described  in  the  account  of  the  antiquities  found  at 
Saccara.  One  of  the  former,  in  the  shape  of  a  Mummy, 
similar  to  Nos.  12  and  13,  in  the  Plate  representing  the 
Antiquities  found  at  Saccara,  but  of  larger  size,  deserves 
more  particular  notice3.    The  substance  of  it  is  porcelain, 

resembling 

(1)  "  Basaltes  Orientalis  viridis"  (Ferler,  uli  supra,  p.  233.)  "Extremely  hard,, 
homogeneous,  and  compact,  without  any  crystallizations." 

(2)  See  Nos.  1  and  2,  of  Plate  annexed.  (3)  See  Nos.  3,  4,  of  Plate. 


i;   lilUr*J,„J,l> 


ANT IQU  IT  (  BS   found  al    sa  [S  . 


Tublished  i ',/  niSu.by  T.Caddl  till  iDantt.Stnmd.  Imdm 


RUINS    OF    SAIS 


215 


Sceptre. 


resembling   the    sort   of    earthenware    called    Delft ;    and      chap.  vi. 
it  offers,  perhaps,   the    most   antient  specimen  of  the  art 
in  the  world.     The   interior  exhibits    a    pale  baked   clay, 
and    the   exterior   is    covered   with   a  highly  vitrified  var- 
nish.    The    lower   part  of    the    figure    has    been    broken 
off  near  the  feet ;    but   all    the   upper   part   is    entire.     It 
has  a   long  narrow   beard,  hanging  from  the  extremity  of 
the  chin  ;  and  below  the  breast  are  five  lines  of  an  hierogly- 
phical  inscription.    The  hands  are  crossed  upon  the  breast ; 
sustaining  against  either  shoulder  such  perfect  models  of  the 
symbol  which  Kircher  has  denominated  Hieralpiia\  that  it    Aratriform 
is  impossible  we  can  remain  any  longer  in  doubt  respecting 
its  real  signification.    The  subject  has  been  before  alluded 
to';  but  something  may  yet  be  added  for  its  illustration;  for, 
in  fact,  it  is  here  rendered  more  evident  that  an  antient  Plough 
was  the  archetype  of  an  Egyptian  character,  common  in  hiero- 
glyphic writing.     Upon  this  figure   the  entire  model  of  the 
instrument   is   complete ;    and   even    the    twisted   cordage, 
binding  the  plough-share  to  the  handle,  is  distinctly  repre- 
sented6.    But,  in  order  to  remove  all  remaining  doubt  con- 
cerning this  symbol,  we  perceive  in  the  left  hand  of  the 
figure  a  stouter  cord7,  from  which  is  suspended  a  Harrow 

hanging 


(4)  See  A,  B,  of  No.  3. 

(5)  See  Chap.  IV.  pp.  Ill,  112. 

(6)  See  m,  n,  of  No.  3,  in  the  Plate  annexed. — In  the  beautiful  designs  by  Roncalli, 
of  the  Obeliscus  Campensis,  engraved  by  Antonini,  for  Zoega's  work  "  Be  Origine  et 
Usu  Obeliscorwn,"  published  at  Rome  in  1797,  the  delineation  of  this  symbol,  as  a 
Plough,  is  so  distinct,  that  even  the  rings  attached  to  the  cordage  are  visible.  See  No.  5 
of  the  Plate,  as  copied  from  that  work. 

(7)  See  x,  x,  of  Nos.  3  and  4. 


-<■•  —  --■■- 


216 


CHAP.  VI. 


FROM  GRAND  CAIRO  TO  ROSETTA. 

hanging  behind  the  left  shoulder1.  We  see  clearly,  therefore, 
the  kind  of  instrument  mentioned  by  Diodorus2,  who  says 
the  priests  and  kings  of  Egypt  bore  a  sceptre  in  the  form  of 
a  plough.  An  instrument  of  this  kind  was  said  to  be  in  use 
among  the  Celtic  tribes3.  The  inhabitants  of  St.  Kilda,  in  the 
Hebrides,  use  it  as  a  sort  of  spade,  or  hand-plough.  But  in 
the  north  of  Sweden  and  Finland,  a  different  race  of  men 
use  a  plough  of  the  same  form,  upon  a  larger  scale:  it  is 
there  drawn  by  cattle;  and  it  is  further  distinguished  by 
having  a  double,  instead  of  a  single  plough-share.  Linnceus 
first  observed  this  very  antient  model  of  the  plough, 
during  his  travels  in  his  native  country ;  and  a  repre- 
sentation of  the  Finland  plough  has  been  here  introduced, 
as  it  was  copied  from  one  of  his  drawings  \  This  curious 
relique  therefore  preserves  a  model  of  one  of  the  most 
antient    instruments  of  agriculture  known    in   the   world5; 

the 


(1)  See  2,  of  No.  4. 

(2)  Diodor.  Sic.  lib.  iv. 

(3)  See  p.  1 1 1  of  this  Volume. 

(4)  See  No.  6  of  the  Plate. 

(5)  Osiris  is  said  to  have  constructed  his  own  plough.  Tibullus  (lib.  i.  eleg.  7.) 
makes  him  the  first  husbandman.  There  were  two  methods  of  using  the  very  simple 
instrument  here  represented  ;  one  being  the  more  antient,  but  the  shape  of  the  plough 
remaining  the  same  ;  which  was  that  of  an  Alpha,  with  one  side  shorter  than  the  \ 
other,  As  a  hand-plough,  the  vertex  was  capped  with  brass  or  iron,  which  the  \j 
husbandman  forced  into  the  ground  with  his  foot.  It  was  then  held  in  this  position,  y 
and  in  this  manner  it  is  now  used  by  the  natives  of  St.  Kilda.  When  used  as  a  draft- 
plough,  which  must  have  been  suggested  by  the  improvement  of  a  later  age,  the  shorter 

limb  of  the  Alpha  was  tipped  with  metal,  and  it  was  then  held  in  this  position,  ■*— r* 

as  it  is  now  used  by  the  inhabitants  of  Ostro-Bothnia.  The  hand-phugh  was  of 
course  the  antient  sceptre  j  not  only  on  account  of  its  antiquity,  but  as  being  the  only 
portable  instrument. 


RUINS    OF   SAIS. 


217 


the  primeval  plough  of  Egypt,  and  of  the  Eastern  world ;      chap.vi. 

held    in   veneration    from  the  earliest  ages,  and  among  all 

nations ;   considered  as   a   sacred    symbol ;    an   emblem   of 

power  and  dignity  ;  a  sceptre  fit  for  kings,  and  even  Gods,  to 

wear6  ;  a  type  of  Nature's  bounty,  and  of  peace  on  earth7. 

To  this  veneration  of  the  plough  may  be  referred  all  the 

mysteries  of  Ceres,  and  many  of  the  most  sacred  solemnities, 

the   rites  and  the  festivals,  of  Egypt  and  of  Greece.     Such 

is  the  explanation  of  Kircher's  Hieralpha,   in   a  symbolical 

view.    That,  as  an  archetype,  it  subsequently  gave  birth  to  an 

alphabetical  sign,  which  was  introduced  among  the  characters 

used  in  Egyptian  writing,  is  very  probable  ;  for  a  gradual 

change  from  the  pictured  forms  of  visible  objects  to  written 

types,  is  manifest  to  any  one  who  will  give  himself  the  trouble 

to  collect  and  to  compare  the  various  modifications  which  the 

hieroglyphics  have  sustained 8. 

Having 

(0)  "  In  antient  times,  the  sacred  plough   employ'd 

"  The  Kings,  and  awful  fathers  of  Mankind."  Thomson. 

(7)  •"  And  they  shall  beat  their  swords  into  plough-shares."     Isaiah  ii.  4. 

(8)  Mr.  Hamilton's  observations  upon  the  rolls  of  Papyrus  which  are  found  in  the 
Mummies  of  the  Thebai'd  confirm  this  opinion  in  a  remarkable  manner. — "Of  the 
four,"  says  he,  "  which  I  brought  to  England,  one  is  in  the  British  Museum ;  another  in 
the  possession  of  the  Society  of  Antiquaries  :  the  other  two  are  but  fragments  ;  one  of 
them  written  in  the  common  Egyptic  character,  that  of  the  other  approaching  much 
more  to  the  hieroglyphical  mode  of  writing. 

"  This  circumstance  had  first  induced  me  to  consider,  in  a  Memoir  submitted  to  the 
Society  of  Antiquaries,  the  vulgar  character,  or  lyyapia  ypdfxfxara,  of  antient  Egypt,  as 
having  derived  its  origin  from  the  picture-writing  of  earlier  ages :  and  I  am  further 
inclined  to  that  opinion  by  the  observation  of  many  peculiarities  in  which  they  still 
resemble ;  these  resemblances  becoming  more  and  more  distant,  in  proportion  to  the 
remoteness  of  the  period  of  such  writings  from  the  original  institution  of  their  hierogly- 
phical archetype.  In  some  rolls  of  Papyrus,  almost  every  letter  bears  a  faint  resemblance 
to  some  visible  object,  as  an  eye,  bird,  serpent,  knife,  &c.  j  whereas  in  others  it  is  very 
difficult  to  trace  it :  and  at  the  date  of  the  Inscription  on  the  Rosetta  Stone,  the  copy 
VOL.  III.  2  F  seems 


FROM  GRAND  CAIRO  TO  ROSETTA. 

Having  by  this  time  gained  the  confidence  and  good- will 
of  the  Arabs,  we  might  have  extended  our  researches  by 
making  an  excavation  within  the  antient  inclosure,  if  bur 
time  had  not  been  limited.  They  told  us,  that  it  was 
their  frequent  practice,  when  they  dug  up  stones  with 
hieroglyphic  figures,  to  bury  them  again.  And  were  this 
not  true,  it  is  very  improbable  that  all  the  colossal  works 
which  once  adorned  the, city  of  Sais  have  been  removed  or 
destroyed.  From  the  account  given  of  them  by  Herodotus, 
we  may  conclude  that  subsequent  generations  were  unable  to 
carry  off  such  stupendous  masses  of  stone,  for  nothing  less 
than  gunpowder  would  have  been  equal  to  their  demolition. 
Amasis  constructed  at  Sais  a  propylceam  in  honour  of 
Minerva,  which  in  magnitude  and  grandeur  surpassed  every 
thing  before  seen,  of  such  enormous  size  were  the  stones 
employed  in  the  building  and  in  its  foundation.  Herodotus, 
enumerating  the  decorations  given  by  Amasis  to  this 
edifice,  mentions  colossal  statues  of  prodigious  magnitude, 
under  the  appellation  of  Androsphinges' .  A  statue  of  this 
kind   was    discovered    soon    after    we    left    Egypt2.       But 

the 


seems  so  much  to  have  degenerated  from  the  original,  as  to  leave  no  means  whatever  of 
forming  a  comparison  between  the  two :  and  we  know  that  there  are  instances  of 
both  characters  being  applied  to  the  same  use  ;  some  few  rolls  of  Papyrus  having  already 
been  published,  written  in  what  is  called  the  Sacred  Character."  See  Hamilton  s  /Egyp- 
tiaca,  p.  407.     Lond.  I8O9. 

(1)  Tovto    Si,   tcoXoffffoi/t    fuydXovt;   teal  'ANAPOS^INrAi    Treptfii'iKcac;    dvtdt}Kt. 

"  Quinetiam   ingentes   colossos,    et  immanes  ANDROSPHINGAS,  ibidem  posuit." 

Herodot.  Euterpe,  c.  175.     Ed.  Galei. 

t 

(2)  Soe  Hamilton's  iEgyptiaca,  p.  382.     Lond.  I8O9. 


RUINS    OF    SAIS. 


219 


the  most  surprising  work  at  Sais  was  a  monolithal  shrine',  chap,  vi. 
brought  from  Upper  Egypt ;  in  the  conveyance  of  which, 
from  Elephantine,  two  thousand  persons  were  employed, 
during  three  years4.  A  celebrated  colossus,  given  by 
Amasis  to  the  temple  of  Vulcan  at  Memphis,  had  also 
its  duplicate  at  Sa'is,  of  the  same  size,  and  in  the  same 
attitude5.  Within  the  sacred  inclosure  were  buried  the 
sovereigns  of  the  Saitic  dynasty6;  and  it  may  be  sup- 
posed that  the  ransacking  of  such  a  ccemetery  would  lead 
to  the  discovery  of  many  curious  antiquities,  and  even  give 
probability  to  the  narrative  related  by  the  inhabitants  of 
Se"l  Hajar  to  Egmont  and  Heyman7,  concerning  the  camel- 
loads  of  treasure  which  were  found  upon  the  spot.  Our 
next  inquiry  was  directed  towards  the  mosque  ;  suspecting 
that,  in  the  materials  employed  for  this  building,  something 
more  might  come  to  light.  After  a  slight  hesitation,  they 
also  granted  us  permission  to  carry  on  our  researches  here, 
and  admitted  us  to  view  the  interior  of  the  structure.  The 
fragments  of  some  antient  columns  appeared  in  the  walls  ; 
and  in  the  steps,  before  the  entrance,  we  noticed  a  large 

slab 


(3)  Count  Caylus  wrote  a  dissertation  upon  this  extraordinary  structure.  Voy,  Mem. 
de  VAcademie,  iffc.  tom.wxx.  Hist.  p.  23. 

(4)  Herodot.  Euterpe,  c.  175. 

(5)  Ibid.  c.  176.  The  colossal  hand  of  granite,  which  is  now  in  the  British  Museum, 
W3s  found  by  the  French  upon  the  site  of  antient  Memphis,  between  Djiza  and  Saccara, 
and  believed  by  them  to  have  belonged  to  one  of  the  statues  mentioned  by  Herodotus, 
as  being  near  the  Temple  of  Vulcan. 

(6)  Herodot.  ibid.  c.  169.  For  an  account  of  this  dynasty,  see  Kircher,  CEdip. 
jEgypt.  torn.  i.  c.  10.  p.  97.     Rom.  1652. 

(7)  See  Egmont  and  Heyman's  Travels,  vol.  II.  p.  112.     Lond.  1759. 


220 


CHAP.  VI. 


Hieroglyphic 
Tablet. 


RUINS    OF   SAIS. 

slab  of  polished  Syenite.     Having  with  some  difficulty  ex- 
tricated   and  turned   the   stone,  we  found  it  to  be  the  base 
or  pedestal  of  one  of  those  upright  statues  which  seem  to 
correspond  with  the  notion  entertained  of  the  Androsphinxes 
mentioned  by  Herodotus  >  although  it  does  not  answer  in  its 
size    to    the  proportion  necessary   for   the   colossal   figures 
alluded   to  by  the  historian.     It  is  now  in  the  Vestibule  of 
the  University  Library  at  Cambridge  \     One  foot  only  be- 
longing   to    the  statue   now    remains  upon    this    pedestal. 
What  renders  it  peculiarly  interesting  is,  that  it  exhibits, 
among  the   characters  of  an  hieroglyphic    tablet  which  is 
quite  entire,  a  perfect  representation  of  the  Ibis.    The  other 
signs   are   also    such    accurate    figures    of    visible     objects, 
that  almost  all  their  archetypes  may  be  enumerated ;   either 
by   comparing   them    with    things  found  among  barbarous 
nations  ;  or  with  natural  phenomena ;   or  with  existing  anti- 
quities ;    or   by   explaining  the   ideas  they  are  intended  to 
convey,  according  to  facts  derived  from  the  study  of  anti- 
quities in  general.     That  the  Reader  may  therefore  compare 
a   few  observations   upon  this    subject    with    an    engraved 
representation   of  these  hieroglyphics,  they  will  be  given 
according  to  a  numerical  order  corresponding  with  ciphers 
upon  the  Plate. 


(1)  See  "  Greek  Marbles"  No.  II.  p.  3.     Camb.  180Q. 


No.l. 


M^B 


■■'<  Wmmm 


,'"■, 


nil:1! 


IBiflSlliif  * 
•- *  ■'■-' 


"ilillflMI* 


,  <:m 


■■■ 


a 


lllillSI 


■IBSm 


■ 


fill 


Mr 


I!      Vvt,  I1 

m  1 


II 1 1 


lit  ft 


:'.■■ 


■■  :  :l1 

IIwm 


:ilBII! 


Ill 


||1| 


11 Ik 


■■;■' 


IS, 


•m 


HIEROGLYPHIC  TABLET  FOUND  AT  SA1S. 


221 


CHAP.  VI. 


N.  B.    See  the  Plate. 


No.  1.  1  he  Segment  of  a  Circle,  thus  placed,  is  believed,  by  almost  all  writers     Enumeration 
upon  the  subject  of  Egyptian   Hieroglyphics,   to  signify  the  Loiver    Archetypes. 
Hemisphere.     May  it   not  rather  denote  a  period  of  time  ?     Some- 
times a  small  Orb  is  placed  within  it,  as  at  No.  31. 

2.  An  Egyptian  Si  strum,  with  four  Chords,  or   Bars,    as   described   by- 

Plutarch  (De  Isid.  et  Osir.  c.  63.)  the  sound  of  which  was  believed 
to  avert  and  drive  away  Typhon.  Plutarch  has  given  a  particular 
account  of  this  instrument. 

"  Quid  nunc  AZgyptia  prosunt 

Sistra?" 

3.  Two  Battle-axes,  fashioned  like  weapons  brought  from  the  South  Seas, 
with  stone  blades,  fastened  to  wooden  handles. 

4.  The  Scarabcean  Ball; — among  the  Egyptians,  a  Type  of  the  Sun.    See 

Kircher  (Edip.  JE>gypt.  &c. 

5.  Perhaps  an  antient  Auger,  used  in  boring  stones  for  lapidary  inscrip- 
tions, &c. 

6.  An  Eagle,  as  seen  on  Medals  of  the  Ptolemies. 

7.  The  Testudo,  or  two-stringed  Lyre ;   the  fopptyZ  of  Homer. 

8.  Another  Musical  Instrument. 

9.  A  supposed  Type  of  the  Upper  Hemisphere,   as  contrasted  with  No.  1. 

10.  The  Sawed  Inclosure  of  Sais,  and  Coemetery  of  their  Kings.     See  Hero- 

dotus, Strabo,  &c. 

11.  A  cumbent  Sceptre,  or  War  Instrument. 

12.  Testudo,  and  Battle-axe. 

13.  The  appearance  of  a  Line,  as  seen  here,  inclosing  some  of  the  hiero- 
glyphic characters,  which  are  thereby  separated  from  the  rest,  may 
possibly  be  nothing  more  than  a.  parenthetical  mark.  These  are  com- 
mon on  the  Obelisk  of  Heliopolis.  The  characters  so  included  repre- 
sent the  Scarabcean  Bull,  as  at  No.  4.  and  two  Vessels  of  Terra  Coita, 
with  forms  often  observed  among  antient  Vases  of  Earthen-ware. 

14.  Represents  the  same  instrument  as  at  No.  2.  and  a  copper  Knife-blade, 
like  those  which  are  found  in  the  Catacombs  of  Saccdra,  and  other 
Sepulchres  of  Egypt. 

15.  Same 


222  HIEROGLYPHIC   TABLET 

CHAP.  VI.     No.  15.  Same  as  No.  4. 

16.  A  Fillet,  seen  upon  representations  of  Apis  ;  with  the  square  Soros,  or 

Chest,  in  which  his  remains  were  deposited. 

17.  An  Owl. 

18.  Forceps,  as  found  in  Greek  sepulchres  ;  used  to  fasten  garments. 

19.  Same  as  No.  1. 

20.  The  Horns  of  Apis.  (Et  comes  in  pompd  Uorniger  Apis  erat.")    Such 

was  the  symbol  of  Power  and  Divinity  over  all  the  Eastern  world. 
"And  the  ten  horns  which  thou  sawest  are  ten  Kings." 
Rev.  xvii.  12.    See  also  Psalms  18.  12.  75.  10.    Dan.  vii.  24  ;  &x.  &c« 

21.  Axes  for  beheading  Victims.  Instruments  of  the  same  form  were  used 
in  beheading  cattle  during  the  public  festivals  of  Venice  ;  particularly 
during  the  Carnival. 

22.  Entrances  to  the  Adyta  jEgyptiorum.  (See  Kircher,  torn.  I.  p.  393. 
Rom.  1652.)  "  And  he  brought  me  to  the  door  of  the  court  : 

AND  WHEN  I  LOOKED,  BEHOLD  A  HOLE  IN  THE  WALL.  THEN  SAID 
HE  UNTO  ME,  SON  OF  MAN,  DIG  NOW  IN  THE  WALL.  And  WHEN 
I  HAD  DIGGED  IN  THE  WALL,  BEHOLD  A  DOOR.  So  I  WENT  IN,  AND 
SAW;  AND  BEHOLD,  EVERY  FORM  OF  CREEPING  THINGS,  AND  ABO- 
MINABLE BEASTS,  AND  ALL  THE  IDOLS  OF  THE  HOUSE  OF  ISRAEL, 
POURTRAYED    UPON    THE    WALL    ROUND    ABOUT."       Ezekiel,  ell.  viii. 

7,  8.  10.  See  also  Eusebius,  lib.  ii.  Prcep.  Evang.  Justin.  Qutest.  ad 
Orihodoxos  ;  &c. 

23.  Small  Vessels  of  pale  Clay,  exactly  of  this  form,  baked  only  by  the  Sun's 

heat,  are  found  in  digging  among  the  Antiquities  of  Sai's,  and  also  in 
the  Catacombs  of  Saccara. 

24.  This  strange  looking  figure  can  only  be  comprehended  by  comparing 

it  with  other  representations  of  the  same  thing,  where  the  object  is 
more  distinctly  delineated.  It  is  intended  for  an  angle  of  the  elbow, 
with  the  lower  part  of  the  arm  and  hand  extended  horizontally ;  the 
hand  containing  a  cup,  or  small  vase.  It  is  very  perfectly  represented 
in  Zoega's  Plate  of  the  Oleliscus  Campensis. 

25.  Two  Battle-axes. 

26.  Same  as  No.  10. 

27.  Same  as  No.  5. 

28.  Vessels  of  Terra  Cotta,  as  found  at  Sai's. 

59.   Same 


FOUND   AT   SAIS. 


223 


No.  29. 


30. 


31. 

32. 
33. 
34. 

35, 
37- 
38. 
39- 


40. 
41. 
42. 
43. 
44. 
45. 
46. 
47- 
48. 


Same  as  No.  4.  The  mark  towards  the  centre  exhibits  only  a  con- 
vexity found  in  almost  all  hieroglyphics,  rising  from  their  inferior 
surface. 

Is  an  Astronomical  Sign;  and  it  proves  that  the  antient  symbol  of 
Byzantium  was  derived  from  Egypt.  Upon  the  Byzantine  medals,  the 
Star  appears  above  the  Crescent,  which  is  here  given  in  an  inverted 
position.  It  is  still  seen  upon  the  walls  of  the  Grand  Signior's  palace 
at  Constantinople;  near  the  gilded  iron  gate  in  the  Gardens  of  the 
Seraglio,  by  which  the  Sultan  enters  from  his  winter  apartments. 
The  Turks  display  it  upon  their  banners.  The  very  antient  tradition 
preserved  in  Athenaeus,  of  '  the  Sun's  sailing  over  the  Ocean  every 
night  in  a  Cup,'  may  possibly  refer  to  this  part  of  the  Egyptian 
Mythology.  (See  Athen.  p.  469.  Also  Bentley  upon  Phalaris,  p.  81.) 
It  seems  to  correspond  with  representations  seen  upon  heads  of  Isis, 
and  also  of  Ceres,  where  an  entire  Orb  is  placed  within  a  Crescent. 

Same  as  No.  1.  distinguished  only  by  containing  an  Orb,  or  Scarabaan 
Ball. 

Similar  to  No.  30. 

Same  as  No.  31. 

Triglyph,  as  seen  in  Doric  Architecture.  This  iigure  occurs  as  a  written 
character  in  the  antient  vernacular  language  of  Egypt. 

&  36.  Same  as  No.  31. 

Same  as  No.  29. 

Same  as  No.  l. 

The  Serpent,  as  described  by  Herodotus;  held  sacred  in  antient  Egypt, 
and  still  venerated  by  its  modern  inhabitants.  Ceres  was  represented 
among  the  Greeks  in  a  Car  drawn  by  Serpents:  and  our  Saviour  used 
the  expression,  "  Be  ye  wise  as  serpents,  and  harmless  as  doves." 

Same  as  No.  9. 

Perhaps  a  Dyke,  or  Canal. 

An  Owl 

Same  as  No.  10. 

Same  as  No.  7. 

Same  as  No.  28. 

Same  as  No.  29. 

Head  of  an  Ostrich,  and  of  an  Ox  or  Heifer. 

A.  well-known  sign,  used  by  the  Antients,  upon  their  medals,  gems, 
vases,  &x.  to  denote  Water.    The  representations  of  ( 10  crossing  the 

Sea'  have  frequently  no  other  sign  to  signify  water  than  this  type 
beneath  the  figure  of  the  Heifer. 

49.  The 


CHAP.  VI. 


224 


HIEROGLYPHIC    TABLET 


CHAP.  VI.     No.  49.  The  Coluber  Cerastes,  or  Horned  Viper,  a  native  of  Egypt.    See  Hassel- 
quist,  p.  221.  Lond.  1766.     Linn.  Syst.  Nat.  p.  217. 

50.  Same  as  Aft.  20. 

5 1 .  A  Lachrymatory,  between  two  Strigils. 

52.  Perhaps  the  Ham-string ;  an  instrument  of  punishment  used  in  the 
East. 

53.  An  Egyptian  Altar. 

54.  Same  as  No.  24. 

55.  A  perfect  representation  of  the  Ibis.  That  which  Dr.  Shaw  has 
given,  as  found  upon  a  Sardonyx,  is  far  from  being  so  faithful  a 
portrait  of  this  animal.  See  Shaw's  Travels,  Plate  facing  p.  409. 
Lond.  1757. 

56.  Same  as  No.  23. 

57.  8c  58.     Unknown. 

59.  Same  as  No.  1. 

60.  Same  as  No.  5. 

61.  Unknown. 

62.  Same  as  No.  1. 

63.  A  Dove. 

64.  Same  as  No.  1. 

65.  Same  as  No.  28. 

66.  Same  as  No.  29. 

67.  Same  as  No.  40,  accompanied  by  the  Thyrsus  Scyllocyprius.  See  Kir- 
cher,  CEdip.  JEgypt.  torn.  I.  p.  277.    Rom.  1652. 

68.  Unknown. 

69.  An  Obelisk. 

70.  Same  as  No.  3. 

71.  Here  the  type  of  the  Upper  Hemisphere  is  introduced  between  the 
figures  of  a  Bird  and  one  of  those  Crosses,  but  without  a  handle,  men- 
tioned by  Ruffijius,   and  by  Socrates  Scholasticus,  lib.  v.  c.  17. 

72.  Same  as  No.  22. 

73.  Unknown. 

74.  Same  as  No.  9. 

75.  Same  as  No.  69. 

76.  Three  Axes. 
77-  Same  as  No.  1. 
78.  The  same  Bird  appears  at  No.  71.    Unknown. 


79.  Shews 


FOUND    AT    SAIS. 

No.  79.  Shews  the  only  instance  which  occurs,  in  this  Hieroglyphic  Tablet,  of 
the  mode  by  which  the  Priests  compounded  several  archetypes  into 
one  symbol.  The  Fillet,  as  at  No.  16,  is  thrown  over  a  sign  of  the 
Upper  Hemisphere1,  as  at  No.  9  ;  and  these  form  a  pedestal,  supporting 
a  Dove,  as  at  No.  63  ;  and  the  Blade  of  a  Knife,  somewhat  similar  to 
that  seen  at  No.  14. 

80.  Seems  also   a  part  of  the  compound   figure. in  No.  79;    being  in  the 
same  line  with  the  extremities  of  the  Fillet. 

81.  Unknown. 

82.  Same  as  No.  9. 

83.  Same  as  No.  69. 


225 


The  reader  will  perhaps  deem  these  observations  of  little 
importance ;  yet  surely  the  first  step  towards  any  chance  of 
discovering  a  key  to  the  Hieroglyphic  characters  will  be  that 
which  enables  us  to  determine  the  archetypes  whence  the 
letters  were  severally  derived :  for  although  these  may 
appear  somewhat  plainly  delineated  upon  this  very  antient 
Tablet,  they  are  by  no  means  so  universally.  As  soon  as 
the  full  outline  was  modified,  and  approached  nearer  to 
signs  used  as  letters,  the  original  forms  were  so  altered  that 
they  almost  disappeared.  Thus  we  find  examples,  in  the 
manuscripts  taken  from  mummies,  of  a  mode  of  writing, 
where  the  representation  of  an  animal,  or  of  any  other 
visible  object,  only  now  and  then  appears,  mingled  with  the 
letters,  and  very  imperfectly  traced2.  Nor  was  this  the  only 
change  that  took  place.    The  inscription  upon  this  Tablet, 

as 


CHAP.  VI. 


(1)  By  these  expressions,  "  Upper"  and  " Lower Hemisphere,"  ought  properly  to  be 
understood  the  Sun  in  the  upper  or  lower  hemisphere ;  and,  generally,  an  orb  is  repre- 
sented in  the  semicircle.  By  the  frst,  the  Egyptians  denoted  Ammonj  by  the  second, 
according  to  Jablonski,  Serapis.  See  Jablonski's  beautiful  illustration  of  these  signs; 
Pantkeon  JEgypt.  torn.  I.  p.  235.     Franco/.  1? 50. 

(2)  See  Hamilton's  JEgyptiaca,  p.  407,  &c.  Lond.  I8O9. 
VOL.  III.  2  G 


226 


FROM  GRAND  CAIRO  TO  ROSETTA. 


CHAP.  VI. 


Curious  Torso 
of  an  antient 
Statue. 


as  it  is  evident,  was  intended  to  be  read  vertically,  or  from 
top  to  bottom,  according  to  the  form  now  observed  in  the 
vulgar  writing  of  the  Calmucks1,  and  some  other  Oriental 
nations:  but  in  process  of  time  the  horizontal  manner  of 
tracing  the  signs  was  introduced,  as  we  see  by  the  in- 
scriptions upon  the  tablet  found  at  Saccara2;  and  the 
characters  were  then  read  from  left  to  right,  if  we  may 
judge    from  the  position  of  the  figures  introduced  among 

r 

the  hieroglyphics  upon  that  stone. 

When  we  had  agreed  with  the  Arabs  for  the  purchase  of 
this  Tablet,  and  for  its  safe  conveyance  on  board  the  djerm, 
we  prepared  to  examine  the  interior  of  the  Mosque.  Here 
we  found,  among  other  materials  loosely  put  together  for 
the  purpose  of  supporting  a  stone  table,  the  finest  piece  of 
Egyptian  sculpture  we  had  yet  seen.  This  was  the  Torso  of 
a  statue  of  the  kind  of  trap  mentioned  before,  or  green 
Oriental  basalt.  So  perfect  is  its  preservation,  that  the 
polish  upon  its  surface  equals  that  of  glass.  A  zone,  covered 
with  hieroglyphics,  fastens  the  apron  round  its  waist ;  and 
this  apron  is  believed  to  represent  the  leaf  of  some  Egyp- 
tian plant.  But  that  which  particularly  distinguishes 
this  Torso,  is  the  curious  exhibition  it  offers  of  the  process 
used  by  the  antient  sculptors  of  Egypt  in  graving  the 
hieroglyphical  symbols  ;  a  part  only  of  the  graved  work 
being  completed,  and  the  rest  of  the  figures  sketched,  as 
delineations  upon  the  stone,  with  great  ingenuity  and  accu- 
racy,   preparatory    to  their  incision.      Another   remarkable 

circum- 

(1)  The  sacred  writing  of  the  Calmucks  is  read  from  left  to  right,  like  our  own. 
See  Part  the  First  of  these  Travels,  p.  335.  Second  Edit. 

(2)  Seep.  174,  and  the  Plate. 


RUINS    OF    SAIS. 


227 


circumstance,  but  generally  characterizing  the  best  hiero- 
glvphical  sculpture,    may  be  distinctly  observed  upon  this 
Torso.     Although  the  engraved  characters  be  "all  of  them 
intagliated,  and  may  be  considered  as  intaglios,  yet  a  bold 
convexity  is  perceivable  within  each  figure,  rising  in  relief 
from  the  inferior  surface,  like  the  workmanship  of  a  Cameo*. 
There  is  a  third  point  of  view  in  which  this  curious  frag- 
ment of  the  finest  sculpture  of  Egypt  is    also  entitled  to 
more  particular  regard ;  not  only  in  the  University  where 
it   is  now  placed,  but  from  literary   men   in   general,   and 
among  all  those  who  are  interested  in  Ecclesiastical  history. 
The  very  first  hieroglyphical  character  engraven  upon  the 
back  of  this   statue,   is   the    Crux   ansata  ;    the    identical 
type  mentioned  by  early  writers  of  the  Church,  as  having 
caused   such  a  stir  among  Christians   and  Pagans,  at  the 
destruction  of  the  Heathen  temples  in  Alexandria*.     From 
the  time  of  RufHnus,   of  Socrates,    and  of   Sozomen,  this 
type  has  occasionally  exercised  the  ingenuity  and  the  eru- 
dition of  the  most  learned  scholars5.     It  is  seen  suspended 
from  a  hook,  which  is  fastened  by  its  other  extremity  to  a 

globe 


CHAP.  VI. 


Triple  Hicro- 
gram  with  the 
symbol  of  the 
Cross.        * 


(3)  Johnson  writes  this  word  Camaieu,  from  Chamachuia ;  but  it  is  now  become 
sufficiently  naturalized,  under  its  present  form,  to  admit  of  its  being  written  according  to 
the  common  mode  of  pronouncing  the  word.  Nicols,  in  his  "  Lapidary,'"  chap.  xxv. 
p.  131,  (printed  at  Cambridge  in  1652,)  wrote  it  both  Chamehuia,  and  Cameus.  The 
Editors  of  the  Edinburgh  Encyclopedia,  vol.V.  Part  I.  Edin.  1812,  have  adopted  the 
word  Cameo. 

(4)  See  Chap.  IV.  p.  107,  of  this  volume. 

(5)  Jamblichus,  in  an  earlier  period,  had  endeavoured  to  explain  it.  Among  the 
moderns,  Kircher,  Jablonski,  our  countryman  Dr.  Shaw,  De  Pauw,  and  others,  have 
all  written  upon  this  subject.  - 


228 


CHAP,  VI. 


RUINS    OF    SAIS. 

globe  or  ball,  evidently  intended  for  the  Sun  \  Admitting 
therefore  the  explanation  of  the  Crux  ansata,  as  given  to  us, 
upon  the  testimony  of  converted  Heathens,  by  RufTinus  and 
by  Socrates  Scholasticus2,  and  supposing  the  meaning  of 
these  figures  to  be  symbolical  in  this  instance  rather  than 
literal,  we  may  explain  the  signification  of  this  triple  hiero- 
glyphic without  further  conjecture  ;  for  it  plainly  indicates 
that  Life  to  come  proceeds  from,  and  depends  upon,  the 
Giver  of  Light.  The  Christians,  says  Socrates3,  perceiving 
that  this  great  truth  was  couched  under  hieroglyphical  signs, 
and  that  the  same  signs  did  also  prognosticate  the  downfall 
of  the  Temple  of  Serapis,  whenever  it  came  to  light,  exulted 
in  the  discovery,  and  made  it  the  ground  upon  which 
many  of  the  Heathens  were  converted.  After  the  same 
manner,  continues  the  historian4,  did  the  Apostle  St.  Paul 
convert  many  of  the  Athenians  to  the  faith,  by  using  for  his 
purpose  a  Heathen  altar,  which  he  found  with  an  inscription 

"  To  THE  UNKNOWN  GoD." 

Having  also  purchased  this  Torso,  and  conveyed  it  on 
board  the  vessel,  as  the  day  was  now  far  advanced,  we 
prepared  for  our  departure  from  Sais ;  much  gratified  by 
a  view  of  the  place,  and  by  the  acquisitions  we  had  made  in 
so  short  a  space  of  time.  The  Arabs  expressed  equal  satis- 
faction, for  the  whole  village  assembled  to  accompany  us  as 

far 


(1)  See  No.'  y,  of  the  last  Plate. 

(2)  See  Chap.  IV.  p.  10g,  of  this  volume. 

(3)  Socrates  Scholasticus,  lib.  v.  c.  17-  p.  2/6.  Paris,  1668. 

(4)  Ibid. 


FROM  GRAND  CAIRO  TO  ROSETTA. 


229 


far  as  the  river  ;   the  women  dancing,  singing,  and  clapping     chap.  vj. 

their  hands ;  and  the   men  playing  upon  reed  pipes,   called 

here  Zumana\     Many  of  these  women  wore  large  bracelets 

of  ivory;  and  exhibited  the  same  indecent  gestures  which 

we  had  noticed  among   the   dancing  girls  in  our   visit  to 

Saccara.     They  remained  dancing  upon  the  shore  until  we 

lost  sight  both  of  them  and  of  So"  I  Hajar.     The  Nile  was 

truly  boisterous,  and  the  rapidity  of  our  descent  rendered 

our  loss  of  time  of  less  consequence :  it  was  like  a  passage 

of  the  rapids  in  some  of  the  rivers  that  fall  into  the  Gulph 

of  Bothnia ;    and,   towards  evening,  the   turbulence  of  the 

waves  induced  our  boatmen  to  anchor,  for  a  short  time,  at 

the  village  of  Mahallet  Aboaali.     The  wind  was  less  violent    Mahaiiet 

after  sun-set ;  and  we  passed   Rachmanie  during  the  night, 

regretting  that  we   could   not  see   the  great  Canal   which 

supplied  Alexandria  with  water  from  the  river. 

Before  daylight  in  the  morning,  September  the  fifth,  we  Berinbai. 
went  to  the  village  of  Berinbai,  to  see  the  manner  of  hatch- 
ing poultry,  by  placing  their  eggs  in  ovens,  so  frequently 
mentioned  by  authors,  and  so  well  described  by  one  of  our 
oldest  travellers,  George  Sandys6.  Notwithstanding  this, 
the  whole  contrivance,  and  the  trade  connected  with  it,  are 
accompanied  by  such  extraordinary  circumstances,  that  it  re- 
quired all  the  evidence  of  one's  senses  to  give  them  credibility. 

We 


(5)  It  is  the  same  instrument  which  we  noticed  at  Saccara,  under  the  name  of 
Zabuna. 

(6)  See  "  Relation  of  a  Journey  begun  A.D.  1610,"  p.  125.  Lond.  1637. 


230 


CHAP.  VI. 


Ovens  for 
hatching 
Chickens. 


FROM    GRAND    CAIRO 

We  were  conducted  to  one  of  the  principal  buildings 
constructed  for  this  purpose;  and  entered  by  a  narrow- 
passage,  on  each  side  of  which  were  two  rows  of  chambers, 
in  two  tiers,  one  above  the  other,  with  cylindrical  holes,  as 
passages,  from  the  lower  to  the  upper  tier.  The  floor  of 
the  upper  tier  is  grated  and  covered  with  mats,  on  which 
is  laid  camel's  dung ;  somewhat  resembling  the  manner  of 
placing  hops,  for  drying,  in  English  Oast-houses.  We 
counted  twenty  chambers,  and  in  each  chamber  had  been 
placed  three  thousand  eggs ;  so  that  the  aggregate  of  the 
eggs  then  hatching  amounted  to  the  astonishing  number  of 
sixty  thousand.  Of  these,  above  half  are  destroyed  in  the 
process.  The  time  of  hatching  continues  from  autumn  until 
spring.  At  first,  all  the  eggs  are  put  in  the  lower  tier.  The 
most  important  part  of  the  business  consists,  of  course,  in 
a  precise  attention  to  the  requisite  temperature :  this  we 
would  willingly  have  ascertained  by  the  thermometer,  but 
could  not  adjust  it  to  the  nice  test  adopted  by  the  Arab 
superintendant  of  the  ovens.  His  manner  of  ascertaining 
it  is  very  curious.  Having  closed  one  of  his  eyes,  he 
applies  an  egg  to  the  outside  of  his  eyelid  ;  and  if  the 
heat  be  not  great  enough  to  cause  any  uneasy  sensation, 
all  is  safe ;  but  if  he  cannot  bear  the  heat  of  the  egg  thus 
applied  t©  his  eye,  the  temperature  of  the  ovens  must  be 
quickly  diminished,  or  the  whole  batch  will  be  destroyed1. 
During  the  first  eight  days  of  hatching,  the  eggs  are  kept 
carefully  turned.  At  the  end  of  that  time,  the  culling  begins. 

Everv 

«/ 

(1)  We  may  therefore  suppose  the  temperature  about  equal  to  blood-heat,  or  100** 
of  Fahrenheit. 


TO  ROSETTA. 


231 


Every  egg  is  then  examined,  being  held  between  a  lamp  v  CHAP  VI- 
and  the  eye  ;  and  thus  the  good  are  distinguished  from  the 
bad,  which  are  cast  away.  Two  days  after  this  culling, 
the  fire  is  extinguished  ;  then  half  the  eggs  upon  the  lower 
are  conveyed  to  the  upper  tier,  through  the  cylindrical  pas- 
sages in  the  floor ;  and  the  ovens  are  closed.  In  about  ten 
days  more,  and  sometimes  twelve,  the  chickens  are  hatched. 
At  this  time  a  very  singular  ceremony  ensues.  An  Arab 
enters  the  ovens,  stooping  and  treading  upon  stones  placed  so 
that  he  may  walk  among  the  eggs  without  injuring  them, 
and  begins  clucking  like  a  hen ;  continuing  this  curious 
mimicry  until  the  whole  are  disclosed.  We  heard  this  noise, 
and  were  equally  surprised  and  amused  by  the  singular 
adroitness  of  the  imitation.  The  chickens  thus  hatched  are 
then  sold  to  persons  employed  in  rearing  them.  Many  are 
strangely  deformed  ;  and  great  numbers  die,  not  only  in 
rearing,  but  even  during  the  sale;  for,  to  add  to  the  extra- 
ordinary nature  of  the  whole  undertaking,  the  proprietors 
of  these  ovens  do  not  give  themselves  the  trouble  of  counting 
the  live  chickens,  in  order  to  sell  them  by  number,  but 
dispose  of  them,  as  we  should  say,  by  the  gallon;  heaping 
them  into  a  measure  containing  a  certain  quantity,  for  which 
they  ask  the  low  price  of  a  parak ;  rather  more  than  a 
farthing  of  our  money.  Four  soldiers  were  at  this  time 
stationed  at  Berinbal,  to  protect  the  inhabitants  from  being 
pillaged  by  our  allies,  the  Turks. 

Near  this  village  we  noticed  the  superb  tomb  of  some    Tombs  at 
Santon,    or  Sheik,    standing  upon  the   banks   of  the  Nile,    brecki. 
The  form  of  the  dome,    so   prevalent  in  these  buildings, 

seems 


i#si#^#*        •    ■  m  bbss* 


232  "  FROM    GRAND    CAIRO 

chap.  vi.  seems  to  have  been  originally  borrowed  from  the  shape 
either  of  a  pumpkin  or  of  a  melon ;  the  external 
fluted  surface,  and  almost  the  entire  form  of  the  fruit, 
being  modelled  by  the  architect.  The  custom  also  of 
surrounding  a  principal  tomb  with  humbler  sepulchres, 
as  it  existed  in  ages  when  the  Pyramids  were  erected, 
seems,  by  the  appearance  of  this  ccemetery,  to  have  been 
common  in  the  country.  The  place  is  called  Massora 
Shibrecki.  Other  travellers  have  observed,  not  only  in 
Egypt,  but  also  in  Syria,  and  particularly  in  the  neighbour- 
hood of  Damascus,  a  form  of  sepulchre  precisely  corre- 
sponding, though  upon  a  smaller  scale,  with  the  graduated 
structure  of  the  Pyramids  ;  being  all  of  them  pyramidal, 
with  decreasing  ranges,  of  Jour  or  more  steps,  like  the 
principal  Pyramids  of  Saccara'.  It  is  proper  to  mention 
this,  because  it  tends  to  confirm  what  was  before  said  of 
the  sepulchral  origin  of  the  Pyramids  ;  and  also  because  this 
peculiarity  is  not  observable  in  the  ceemetery  at  Massora 

Shibrecki, 


(1)  Colonel  Squire  mentions  this  circumstance  twice  in  his  Journal ;  once  in  de- 
scribing the  Coemeteries  of  Damascus,  and  a  second  time  in  his  account  of  the  Pyramids 
of  Saccara.  Speaking  of  the  latter,  he  says,  "  To  this  day  the  inhabitants  cover  the 
spot  where  the  body  is  interred  with  a  sort  of  monument,  which  is  evidently  taken  from 
the  form  of  a  pyramid.  The  large  pyramid  at  Saccara  is  formed  in  four  stages,  and  is 
flat' at  the  top.  Indeed  all  the  Pyramids,  although,  as  it  is  reported,  they  may  have  been 
cased  with  a  smooth  stone  surface,  are  built  with  steps,  and  many  of  them  are  flat  on 
the  summit.  At  present,  the  common  tombs  of  the  inhabitants  of  Egypt  and  Syria  are 
built  in  this  form.  In  the  towns,  the  work  is  masonry  ;  in  the  villages,  they  are  con- 
structed of  mud  j  but  they  retain,  in  either  instance,  a  resemblance  to  the  Pyramids  in 
their  forms.  This,  joined  toother  circumstances,  seems  to  afford  a  strong  proof  that 
the  Pyramids  were  originally  intended  as  receptacles  for  the  dead."  Squire's  MS. 
Journal. 


TO    ROSETTA.  233 

Shibrecki,    which   might  be  supposed  to   exhibit  the  usual    J^J^ 
form   of  Oriental  tombs.     The   shape   here  of  the   smaller 
sepulchres  is  rather  cylindrical  than  pyramidal. 

A  little  below  Berimbal,  there  is  a  canal  which  extends 
to  the  Lake  Berelos*:  at  the  mouth  of  it  we  saw  some  birds 
of  exquisite  beauty,  to  which  the  Arabs  give  the  name  of 
Sicsach ;   but  could  learn  nothing  further  of  their  history. 
Also  a  species  of  Ardea,  entirely  of  a  white  colour,  by  some 
mistaken  for  the  Ibis;  but  the  bill  is  differently  shaped,  and 
the  Ibis  has  generally,  if  not   always,  some  black  feathers 
near  the  tail.     Hasselquist  described  the  Ibis  as  a  species  of 
Ardea,  of  the  size  of  a  raven3.     He  says  that  it  eats  and 
destroys  serpents4,  small  frogs,  and  insects;  that  it  is  very 
common   in   Egypt,  and  almost  peculiar  to  that  country. 
We  saw  also  the  Egyptian  Plover,  or  Tringa  Mgyptiaca  of 
the  same  author.     The  rest  of  our  voyage  to  Rosetta  was  so 
expeditious,  that  we  arrived  there  by  eight  o'clock   in  the    Amvaiat 
same  morning ;  and  repaired  to  our  former  residence  upon 
the  quay.     As   soon  as  we  landed,  Mr.  Hammer  heard  that 
Sir  Sidney  Smith  was  upon  the  point  of  sailing  for  England  ; 
and  being  unable  to  resist  the  opportunity  thus  offered  of 
visiting  a  country  he  so  much  wished  to  see,  he  gave   up 
the  plan  he   had  formed  for  an    expedition    to  the   Oases, 
and  set  out  immediately  for  the  British  fleet.    While  he  was 
employed  in  procuring  camels   for  himself  and  his  servant, 

we 


(2)  See  the  Map  facing  p.  290,  in  the  former,  Volume. 

(3)  Hasselquist's  Travels,  p.  198.    Lond.  1766. 

(4)  See  Savigny's  observation  upon  the  anatomy  of  the  His,  denying  this  property. 

VOL.  III.  2  H 


234 


CHAP.  VI. 


ROSETTA, 

we  wrote  a  few  letters  of  introduction  for  him  to  some 
of  our  correspondents  in  the  University  of  Cambridge,  and 
in  other  parts  of  England,  and  with  great  regret  took  leave 
of  our  valuable  friend. 

We  found  an  evident  difference  of  climate  between  this 
place  and  Grand  Cairo.  The  dates  were  not  yet  ripe ;  and 
the  mercury  in  Fahrenheit's  thermometer,  when  we  made 
our  usual  observation  at  noon,  had  fallen  five  degrees  lower 
than  it  stood  at  Grand  Cairo  only  four  days  before  ;  being  at 
eighty-nine  upon  September  the  first;  and  this  day,  Septem- 
ber the  fifth,  at  eighty-four.  The  number  of  English 
women  that  had  assembled  at  Rosetta  from  the  different 
ships  in  the  fleet,  and  were  walking  daily  upon  the  strand, 
offered  a  singular  contrast  to  the  appearance  exhibited  by 
the  Arab  females,  in  their  passage  to  and  from  the  Nile  for 
water,  and  in  the  markets  of  the  town.  To  these  were  also 
occasionally  added  the  women  of  the  Indian  army,  now 
encamped  near  Rosetta,  wearing  large  rings  in  their 
noses,  and  silver  cinctures  about  their  ankles  and  wrrists  ; 
their  faces,  at  the  same  time,  being  frightfully  disfigured  by 
red  streaks,  traced  above  the  eyebrows.  Each  party  of 
these  females  doubtless  regarded  the  other  two  as  so  many 
savages  ;  and  who  shall  say  which  was  the  most  refined  ? 
The  town  had  undergone  other  alterations,  and  was  much 
improved  as  a  place  of  residence  since  we  left  it  in  the 
beginning  of  August.  An  Italian  had  opened  a  coffee- 
house, which  was  the  resort  of  the  officers  both  of  the  army 
and  navy.  A  prospect  of  tranquillity  had  brought  back 
many  families,  who  had  before  deserted  it :  and  Arabs  were 

seen 


ROSETT  A. 


235 


seen  in  great  number  in  the  streets,  selling  sugar-canes,  ^^ 
fruit,  and  other  vegetables  ;  and  employed  in  making  chairs, 
tables,  and  bedsteads,  from  the  branches  of  the  date  trees'. 
We  had  no  time  to  spare  for  any  further  inquiry  into  the 
history  of  the  place,  or  the  antiquities  it  might  conceal2 : 
yet,  in  spite  of  every  exertion  to  prosecute  our  expedition 
to  Alexandria,  we  were  detained  three  days  in  preparing  and 
packing  cases,  containing  the  collection  we  had  made,  and 
in  procuring  another  djerm  to  convey  them  to  the  fleet; 
the  boat  in  which  we  came  having  been  pressed  for  the 
service  of  the  army  as  soon  as  it  arrived. 


(1)  Rosetta  was  again  become  an  emporium  for  the  surprising  harvest  of  Upper  as 
well  as  of  Lower  Egypt.  Mr.  Wills,  acting  as  Commissary  for  our  fleet,  to  whom  we 
were  indebted  for  many  acts  of  civility,  at  this  time  received  an  order  for  corn,  to  the 
amount  of  seventeen  thousand  pounds  sterling.  This  gentleman  informed  us,  and  said 
he  was  convinced  of  the  truth  of  the  statement,  that  Upper  Egypt  could  annually  supply 
five  millions  of  Cairo  ardepts  of  wheat;  each  ardept  being  equal  to  Jive  bushels  of  our 
measure;  besides  a  great  supply  of  barley  and  rice,  the  precise  quantity  of  which  he 
was  unable  to  ascertain. 

(2)  Captain  Squire  arrived  at  Rosetta  in  the  evening  of  the  same  day  on  which  we 
left  it.  The  following  remarks  occur  in  his  Journal.  "  The  town  of  Rosetta,  or  Ras- 
ckid  ;is  it  is  called  by  the  Arabs,  was  built  in  the  year  of  Christ  875  ;  and  is  now  in  a 
very  ruinous  state  :  the  houses,  which  are  built  of  burned  brick,  are  high  ;  and  the 
streets,  as  in  all  Turkish  towns,  narrow.  At  this  time  it  is  but  thinly  inhabited,  although 
trade  (now  the  ports  of  Egypt  are  relieved  from  a  blockade)  seems  about  to  revive  :  the 
shops  are  well  stocked  with  provisions  of  all  kinds.  Wild  fowl  may  be  had  in  abun- 
dance. It  may  easily  be  conceived  that  the  eye  would  revel  in  a  prospect  so  refreshing 
as  the  Delta,  (after  contemplating  the  sandy  deserts  of  Aboukir,  and  the  neighbourhood 
of  Alexandria,)  forming  so  delightful  a  contrast  by  its  verdure  and  cultivation.  Of  late 
years,  the  desert  has  encroached,  even  here,  considerably  on  the  town ;  and  the  west 
side  of  Rosetta  is  completely  skirted  by  sand  hills."      Squire's  MS.  Journal. 


CHAP. 


CHAP.  VII. 


ROSETTA   TO    ALEXANDRIA. 


Voyage  to  Aboukir — Visit  to  Lord  Keith — Journey  to  Alexandria — 
Arrival  at  the  British  camp — Communication  with  Lord  Hutchinson 
— Entrance  into  the  French  garrison — Wretched  state  of  the  inhabi- 
tants— Visit  from  a  party  of  Merchants — Discovery  of  the  Tomb 
of  Alexander — Circumstances  of  its  removal  by  the  French — Its 
situation  upon  the  author  s  arrival — Internal  evidence  of  its  authen- 
ticity— Other  antiquities  collected  by  the  French — Cleopatra  s  Needles 
— Pompey's  Pillar — Discovery  of  the  Inscription — Sepulchral  origin 
of  the  Column — Manner  of  its  support — Proof  that  it  was  erected  by 
the  Romans — Restoration  of  the  legend  upon  the  pedestal — Events 
that  occurred  after  the  death  ofPompey — Shrine  constructed  by  Ccesar 
— Testimony  of  the  Arabian  Historians — Hadrians  monument 
to  his  horse — Traditionary  name  of  the  Pillar  founded  on  historical 
evidence — Interview  with  Menou — Surrender  of  the  Rosetta  Tablet 
— Intercourse  between  the  armies — French  Institute — Catacombs  of 
Necropolis — Serapeum  of  Racotis — Of  Hades  and  of  Ammon— 

Cause 


ROSETTA  TO  ALEXANDRIA. 


237 


Cause  of  such  elaborate  sepulchres — Descent  into  the  Cryptse — 
Remarkable  Symbol — Imperfect  accounts  of  the  Alexandrian  Anti- 
quities— Conduct  of  the  Capudan  Pasha. 

llrfARLY  on  the  morning  of  September  the  eighth,  we  got     chap,  vii. 
once  more  under  weigh,   in  a  large  djerm,   having  all  our    voyage  to 

-r*  Aboukir. 

-Egyptian  collection  of  antiquities  on  board  ;  and  saw  the 
beautiful  prospect  of  Rosetta  disappear,  as  we  sailed  be- 
tween the  Isle  of  Sarshes*  and  the  Delta.  We  had  little 
wind,  but  it  was  favourable ;  and  as  we  passed  the  fearful 
bar  at  the  mouth  of  the  Nile,  there  was  not  the  smallest  surf. 
A  small  isle  at  the  entrance  of  the  river  was  entirely  covered 
with  pelicans.  About  half  way  between  the  boccaze  and 
the  fleet,  we  observed  a  salute  from  all  the  Turkish  ships 
at  anchor ;  in  honour,  as  it  was  said,  of  some  Mahometan 
festival.  The  mud  of  the  immense  torrent  now  pouring 
into  the  Mediterranean,  at  the  highest  period  of  the  Nile's 
inundation,  extended  over  the  surface  of  this  part  of  the 
sea ;  and  the  water  tasted  fresh  at  a  considerable  distance 
from  the  embouchure.  As  Captain  Clarke's  frigate  no 
longer  remained  among  the  transports,  we  steered  our 
vessel  among  the  merchant  ships  lying  nearer  to  the  coast 
towards  Aboukir,  and  came  alongside  the  Felicitd  from 
Smyrna,  laden  with  stores.  Here  we  were  hospitably  re- 
ceived by  our  friend  Mr.  Schutz,  of  that  city,  who  was  on 
board,  as  supercargo,  and  by  a  worthy  Ragusan  who  was 
master  of  the  merchantman. 

The 


(1)  See  the  Map  facing  p.  290  of  the  former  Volume. 


238 


CHAP.  VII. 


Arrival  at  the 
British  Camp. 


ROSETTA  TO  ALEXANDRIA. 

The  next  morning,  Wednesday  September  the  ninth,  we 
waited  upon  Lord  Keith,  to  thank  him  for  the  civilities  he 
had  shewn  us,  and  to  take  our  leave.  He  told  us  that  no 
vessels  would  be  permitted  to  sail  into  the  port  of  Alexandria, 
until  the  French  had  evacuated  the  city,  and  the  magazines 
been  properly  secured  by  our  army ;  as  he  knew  that  there 
were  not  less  than  fifty  or  sixty  ships,  manned  by  Greeks 
and  Turks,  waiting  for  the  sole  purpose  of  plunder.  We 
could  not  therefore  obtain  permission  for  the  Felicite  to  take 
us  thither  ;  and  we  returned,  to  undertake  the  journey  by 
land.  A  contrary  wind,  with  a  very  heavy  sea,  had  caused 
so  much  delay,  and  had  given  us  so  much  labour  in  working 
up  to  the  Admiral's  ship,  that  we  did  not  get  back  again 
until  the  day  was  far  advanced.  We  passed  that  night  upon 
the  deck  of  the  FeliciU ;  the  cabin  swarming  to  such  a  degree 
with  bugs,  that  the  table,  during  dinner,  was  covered  with 
them.  We  set  out  very  early,  September  the  tenth,  accom- 
panied by  Mr.  Schutz,  and  reached  the  British  camp  by 
day-break.  The  Commander-in-chief  was  on  horseback, 
inspecting  the  lines.  We  waited  in  his  tent  until  he  re- 
turned, when  he  received  us  with  his  usual  condescension 
and  kindness.  He  told  us  that  our  friend  Mr.  Hamilton  had 
also  reached  the  camp  that  morning,  and  had  been  furnished 
with  a  passport  to  enter  Alexandria.  The  capitulation  for 
the  surrender  of  that  city  had  been  protracted  by  the  con- 
tumacy of  the  French  General,  Menou,  who  was  unwilling 
to  deliver  up  the  Antiquities  demanded  by  the  English ;  and 
his  reluctance,  in  this  respect,  was  considerably  augmented 
by  observing  the  increasing  nature  of  those  demands  :  for  as 

the 


ROSETTA  TO  ALEXANDRIA. 

the  French  had  carefully  concealed  what  they  possessed, 
fresh  intelligence  continually  came  to  Lord  Hutchinson 
concerning  the  acquisitions  they  had  made,  and  gave  rise  to 
some  new  exaction  on  the  part  of  our  army.  Thus  finding 
himself  likely  to  be  stripped  of  all  the  Egyptian  trophies 
with  which  he  had  prepared  to  adorn  the  Museum  at  Paris, 
Menou  gave  no  bounds  to  his  rage  and  mortification. 
Sometimes  he  threatened  to  bury  himself  and  his  troops  in 
the  ruins  of  Alexandria,  sooner  than  accede  to  the  proposals 
he  had  received ;  at  other  times  he  had  recourse  to  the 
most  ridiculous  gasconade,  and  threatened  to  meet  Lord 
Hutchinson  in  single  combat.  The  valuable  Tablet  found  near 
Rosetta,  with  its  famous  trilinguar  inscription,  seemed  to  be 
more  than  any  other  article  the  subject  of  his  remonstrances ; 
because  this,  he  maintained,  was  "  his  private  property ;  and 
therefore  as  exempt  from  requisition  as  the  linen  of  his 
wardrobe,  or  his  embroidered  saddles1."  We  then  ventured 
to  inform  his  Lordship,  that  we  had  reason  to  believe  there 
was  something  concealed  in  Alexandria  for  the  possession  of 
which  the  French  were  more  anxious  than  even  for  this 
Tablet:  and  making  known  to  him  the  nature  of  our  errand, 
received  his  orders  to  set  out  instantly  for  Alexandria ;  and 
endeavour  to  discover,  not  only  where  the  particular  monu- 
ment was  hid  to  which  we  alluded,  but  also  whatsoever  other 
antiquities  the  French  might  have  secreted  in  the  city.  He 
gave  us  also  authority  from  himself  to  receive  the  Rosetta 

Tablet, 


329 


CHAP.  VII. 


(l)  These  were  nearly  Menou's  own  words,  as  they  are  given  in  the  sequel. 


240 


ROSETTA  TO  ALEXANDRIA. 


chap,  vii.  Tablet,  and  to  copy  its  inscriptions  ;  fearful  lest  any  accident 
might  befal  it,  either  while  it  remained  in  the  possession  of 
the  enemy,  or  in  its  passage  home.  His  Lordship  had 
already  obtained  an  impression  from  the  stone,  made  with 
red  chalk,  upon  paper,  by  some  member  of  the  French 
Institute ;  but  the  characters  so  impressed  were  too  imper- 
fectly marked  to  afford  a  faithful  representation  of  the 
original :  this  he  consigned  to  our  care,  as  likely  to  assist 
us  in  the  undertaking.  While  we  were  thus  engaged  in 
receiving  his  Lordship's  instructions,  Colonel  Montresor 
came  in,  and  undertook  to  procure  for  us  the  horses  and 
forage  which  Lord  Hutchinson  had  ordered.  Having 
then  given  us  a  passport  for  quitting  the  English  lines  and 
entering  the  city,  we  were  conducted  to  the  tent  of  Colonel 
Probyn,  of  the  Royal  Irish  ;  and  in  a  short  time  Colonel 
Montresor,  from  whom  we  had  often  before  experienced  the 
most  friendly  attentions,  arrived  with  horses  and  every  thing 
necessary  for  our  conveyance. 

Thus  provided,  we  left  the  British  camp,  and,  crossing  the 
valley  which  separated  the  two  armies,  drew  near  to  the  out- 
works of  Alexandria.  Our  sentinels,  being  then  advanced  close 
to  the  fortifications  of  the  place,  challenged  us  ;  and  having 
given  them  the  word,  we  were  suffered  to  pass  on.  As  we 
approached  the  gates  of  the  city,  we  saw  a  vast  number  of 
Arabs,  who  were  stationed  on  the  outside  of  the  walls,  with 
baskets  of  poultry  and  other  provisions,  waiting  for  per- 
mission from  the  English  to  supply  the  inhabitants ;  who 
were  then  greatly  distressed  for  want  of  food.  At  the  gates,  a 
French  sentinel  received  our  passport,  and  conducted  us  to 

an 


ALEXANDRIA. 


241 


Entrance  into 
the  French 
Garrison. 


an  officer  for  its  examination;  who  directed  us  to  present  chap. vii 
it  again,  when  we  should  arrive  at  head-quarters  within  the 
city.  In  the  desolate  scene  of  sand  and  ruins  which  inter- 
venes between  the  outer  gates  and  the  interior  fortifications, 
we  met  a  party  of  miserable  Turks,  who  were  endeavouring, 
literally,  to  crawl  towards  their  camp1.  They  had  been 
liberated  that  morning  from  their  dungeons.  The  legs  of 
these  poor  creatures,  swoln  to  a  size  that  was  truly  horrible, 
were  covered  with  large  ulcers  ;  and  their  eyes  were  terrible 
from  inflammation.  Some,  too  weak  to  advance,  had  fallen 
on  the  sand,  where  they  were  exposed  to  the  scorching 
beams  of  the  sun.  Immediately  on  seeing  us,  they  uttered 
such  moans  that  might  have  pierced  the  hearts  of  their  cruel 
oppressors.  They  begged  for  water,  but  we  had  none  to 
give  them  ;  for,  eager  in  the  pursuit  of  our  object,  we  had 
neglected  to  supply  ourselves  with  provisions.  We  suc- 
ceeded, but  not  without  difficulty,  in  prevailing  upon  some 
Arabs  to  take  care  of  them  until  relief  could  be  obtained2; 
and  at  eleven  o'clock,  4.  m.  we  passed,  through  the  inner 
<rates,  into  the  great  square  of  Alexandria. 

We  found   the  inhabitants  in  the  greatest   distress    for    Wretched 

state  of  the 

want  of  provisions :  many  of  them  had   not   tasted  meat  or    inhabitant*  of 
bread  for  several  months.     The  French,   who  were  better 
supplied  for  some  time,  were  now  driven  to  such  straits,  that 

they 


Alexandria. 


(1)  Some  repetition  will  perhaps  be  noticed  of  observations  made  in  a  former 
work  (Tomb  of  Alexander,  p.  38.) ;  but  the  author  did  not  consider  any  thing  which 
occurred  in  a  preceding  publication  as  authorizing  the  omission  of  a  part  of  his  Journal 
upon  the  present  occasion. 

(2)  We  had  afterwards  the  happiness  of  hearing  that  they  reached  the  Turkish  camp. 

VOL.  III.  2  I 


ALEXANDRIA. 

they  had  put  to  death  fifteen  horses  every  day,  for  many  days 

past,  to  supply  their  own  soldiers  with  food.     The  families, 

to  whom  we  had  brought  letters,  were  in  a  state  of  misery 

hardly  to  be  described.     We  first  went  to   the  house  of  the 

Imperial  Consul.     They  asked  us  eagerly  when  the  English 

were   to  enter   the   city:    and    being   told  that   some   days 

would  elapse  before  this  could  take   place,  they  burst  into 

tears.     Every  individual  beneath  the  Consul's  roof  exhibited 

proof   of  the    privation    which  his   family  had   sustained : 

fallen  cheeks;    clothes  hanging   loose,   as   if   too  large  for 

their  bodies;   and    a   general    appearance   of  wretchedness 

and  dejection.     The  Consul  said,  that  his  family  had  tasted 

neither  bread  nor  meat  for  many  months :  that  their  principal 

food  had   been  bad  rice  and  onions.     Upon   the  landing  of 

our  army,  most  of  the  inhabitants  were  under  the  necessity 

of  making  biscuit  for  the  support  of  their  families ;  but   as 

soon  as  this  was  known  to  Menou,  he  ordered  the  whole  of 

it  to   be    seized,   for  the  use  of   the    garrison.     When   we 

inquired  what  other   measures  the   French  had  adopted  to 

maintain  themselves,  we  were  informed,  that  they  had  seized 

all  the  specie,  plate,  and  merchandize  in  the  city;  and  given, 

in  lieu  thereof,  bills  upon  their  one  and  indivisible  Republic  ; 

thus  having  the   means  of  buying  up,  at   enormous  prices, 

whatever  article  of  food  might  be  brought  in  by  the  Arabs, 

or  appear  in  the  markets  of  the  place1. 

If 


(1)  The  following  prices  were  given,  upon  the  day  of  our  arrival,  for  provisions,  which 
of  course  the  merchants  were  precluded  from  buying,  as  they  had  been  stripped  of  ever* 
thing  likely  to  be  accepted  in  exchange. 


ALEXANDRIA 


243 


If  the  capitulation  had  been  prolonged  another  tort- 
night,  every  merchant's  family  would  have  been  found 
destitute  even  of  clothing  ;  for,  every  fortnight,  additional 
exactions  were  made  by  the  troops ;  and  already  every 
thing  else  had  been  seized.  It  was  calculated  that  of  the 
Turks,  then  prisoners  in  the  city,  upwards  of  forty  perished 
caily.  The  French  had  carried  their  cruelty  to  these  men 
to  the  severest  extremities ;  making  them  work,  like  horses, 
at  their  mills,  and  in  drawing  water.  All  the  male  inhabi- 
tants had  been  compelled  to  assist  in  the  duties  of  the  gar- 
rison, and  to  bear  arms,  upon  pain  of  imprisonment  if  they 
refused ;  a  species  of  oppression,  however,  which  might 
have  been  expected  from  any  troops  similarly  situated; 
neither  would  it  be  proper  to  judge  of  Frenchmen  in 
general  by  the  sample  which  their  army  in  Egypt  afforded ; 
collected  as  it  had  been,  from  the  refuse  not  only  of  the 
French  republic,  but  of  all  the  rovers  and  banditti  of  the 
Levant.  So  desirous  were  the  French  soldiers  of  abandoning 
Alexandria,  notwithstanding  the  obstinacy  of  their  General 
Menou,  whom  they  detested,  that  they  had  been  seen  to  seize 
Arabs  by  the  beard,  who  arrived  by  stealth  with  provisions, 

and 


CHAP.  VII. 


For  one  pound  of  beef    . 
One  bottle  of  wine    . 
One  ditto  of  brandy  . 
One  pound  of  bad  rice 
One  ditto  of  cheese   . 
A  fish  (the  size  of  a  mackarel)   0 

One  egg 0 

Neither  bread  nor  wood  could  be  obtained  at  any  price :  the  French  soldiers  were 
then  employed  in  pulling  down  the  houses  of  the  inhabitants  for  fuel. 


L. 
0 

s. 
10 

d. 
0 

English. 

l 

0 

0 

l 

10 

0 

0 

1 

0 

0 

9 

0 

el)    0 

5 

0 

0     8 


244 


CHAP.  VII. 


Discovery  of 
the  Tomb  of 
.Alexander. 


ALEXANDRIA. 

and  beat  them,  in  order  that  supplies  of  food  might  not   be 
the  means  of  protracting  the  surrender  of  the  place. 

We  had  scarcely  reached  the  house  in  which  we  were  to 
reside,  when  a  party  of  the  merchants,   who  had  heard  of 
our  arrival  from  the  Imperial  Consul,   came  to  congratulate 
us  upon  the  successes  of  our  army,  and  to  offer  any  assis- 
tance in  their  power,  for  expediting  the  entry  of  the  English 
into  Alexandria.     Some  of  these  waited  until  the  room  was 
cleared  of  other  visitants,  brought  by  curiosity,  before  whom 
they  did  not  think  proper  to  make  further  communication. 
But  when   they  were  gone,  speaking  with  circumspection, 
and  in  a  low  voice,  they  asked  if  our  business  in  Alexandria 
related  to  the  subject  of  contention  between  Lord  Hutchinson 
and  Menou  ;  namely,  the  Antiquities  collected  by  the  French 
in  Egypt  ?    Upon  being  answered   in  the  affirmative,  and, 
in  oroof  of  it,  the  copy  of  the  Rosetta  Stone  being  produced, 
the  principal  person  among  them  said,  "Does  your  Com- 
mander-in-chief know  that  they  have  theTomb  of  Alexander?" 
We  desired  them  to  describe  it :   upon  which  they  said,  that 
it  was  of  one  entire  and  beautiful  green  stone1,  shaped  like 
a  cistern,  and  taken  from  the  Mosque  of  St.  Athanasius ; 
that,  among  the  inhabitants,  this  cistern  had  always  borne 
the  appellation  of  Alexander 's  Tomb.     Upon  further  conver- 
sation, it  was  evident  that  this  could  be  no  other  than  the 
identical  monument  to  which  our  instructions  from  Cairo 
referred.    We  produced  the  confidential  letter  entrusted  to 

us 

( 1 )  The  fact  is,  that  the  stone,  being  a  mass  of  breccia,  is  variegated ;  and  parts  of 
it  only  are  of  a  green  colour. 


ALEXANDRIA. 

us  upon  this  subject.  The  person  to  whom  it  was  written 
was  not  present;  but  they  offered  to  conduct  us  to  his  house. 
We  had  hitherto  carefully  concealed  the  circumstance  of  its 
being  in  our  possession  ;  and,  for  obvious  reasons,  we  shall 
not  mention,  even  now,  the  name  of  the  individual  to  whom 
it  was  addressed.  "  It  relates  then,"  said  they,  "  to  the  par- 
ticular object  of  our  present  visit ;  and  we  will  put  it  in  your 
power  to  get  possession  of  it."  They  then  related  the  unjusti- 
fiable measures  used  for  its  removal  by  the  French,  upon 
whom  they  bestowed  every  degrading  epithet  which  their 
indignation  could  suggest ;  telling  us  also  the  veneration  in 
which  the  Mahometans  had  always  held  it,  and  the  tradition 
familiar  to  all  of  them  respecting  its  origin.  Indeed  this  had 
been  so  long  established,  that  one  wonders  it  had  been  so 
little  noticed  among  the  enlightened  seminaries  of  Europe8. 
Leo  Africanus,  long  subsequent  to  the  conquest  of  Alex- 
andria by  the  Saracens,  had  recorded  the  tradition3;  and 
Freinshemius,  in  his  Supplement  to  Livy,  had  admitted  the 
authority  of  Leo4.  That  it  should  particularly  excite  the 
attention  of  Frenchmen  is  easily  explained.  Their  own 
countryman,  Rollin,  had  directed  their  regard  towards  it,  by 
countenancing  the  opinion  and  testimony  of  Freinshemius5. 

So 


245 

CHAP.  Vlf. 


(2)  Many  were  misled  by  the  words  of  Juvenal : 

**  Cum  tamen  a  figulis  munitam  intraverit  urbem 

"  Sarcophago  contentus  erit." 

supposing  the  allusion  to  be  intended,  rather  for  Babylon,  than  for  Alexandria,  where 
Juvenal  had  himself  visited  the  Tomb. 

(3)  Alexandria:  Descript.  torn.  II.  lib.  8.  p.  677.    Elzev.  1632. 

(4)  Lib.  133.  torn.  V.  p.  637.    edit.  Crevier. 

(5)  Rollin.  vol.  V.  p.  13". 


246 


CHAP.  VII. 


ALEXANDRIA. 

So  eager  were  they  to  obtain  it,  that  the  most  solemn  treaty 
was  infringed,  whereby  they  had  guaranteed  to  the  Moslems 
the  inviolable  possession  of  their  sanctuaries.  The  Mosque 
of  St.  Athanasius  was  forcibly  entered  by  a  party  of  their 
pioneers,  with  battle-axes  and  hammers ;  and  the  "  Tomb  of 
Iscander,  founder  of  the  city"  was  borne  away,  amidst  the 
howling  and  lamentation  of  its  votaries1.  But  we  must  turn 
our  attention,  at  present,  from  the  circumstances  of  its  removal 
by  the  French,  to  pursue  a  narrative  of  events  which  ulti- 
mately placed  in  our  possession  a  trophy,  still  destined,  in  th  en- 
sanguine expectations,  to  grace  their  national  Museum2.  At 
the  moment  of  our  arrival  in  the  city,  not  a  single  individual 
of  our  army  or  navy,  nor  even  in  Great  Britain,  knew  that 
the  monument  at  which  Leo  Africanus  had  himself  done 
homage,  as  a  Mahometan,  and  which  had  so  long  been 
venerated  by  Moslems  under  the  remarkable  appellation  of 

the  Tomb  of  Alexander,  existed  in  Alexandria3. 

We 


(1)  See  also  the  communication  made  to  Dr.  Henley,  by  General  Turner,  respecting 
the  last  instance  of  devotion  paid  to  the  Tomb  by  many  Moslems  of  distinction,  at  its 
departure  from  Alexandria.     Append,  to  Tomb  of  Alex.  No.  II.  p.  144. 

(2)  Perhaps  few  of  our  countrymen  have  yet  attended  to  the  language  they  hold 
upon  this  subject.  The  following  extract  from  an  account  of  the  French  Expedition  to 
Egypt,  by  Charles  Norry,  architect,  one  of  the  members  of  the  "  Societe  Philotech- 
nique,"  attached  to  the  Expedition,  will  offer  a  specimen  of  the  hopes  entertained  in 
France  for  the  recovery  of  this  valuable  monument.     "  Sans  doute  ce  Monument 

NOUS    SERA  APFORTE    AU    MUSEUM    DE    PARIS  !    AU    MOINS    E£T-IL  DEJA  DESIGNE  POUR 

l'orner  un  jour"!!!        See  Peltier's  edit,  of  Denoris   Voyage  in  Egypt,    torn.  II. 
Append,  p.  12Q.     Lond.  1802. 

(3)  This  is  evident,  from  the  total  silence  respecting  it  in  all  the  works  published 
concerning  Egypt  since  the  campaign ;  neither  was  there  any  thing  known  concerning 
the  history  of  this  monument  after  it  was  deposited  in  the  British  Museum,  until  the 
period  of  the  author's  publication  upon  the  subject  in  1805. 


ALEXANDRIA  247 

We  then  visited  the  person  to  whom  our  letter  from  chap.vii. 
Gai*o  had  been  addressed,  respecting  the  communication  to 
be  nade  upon  our  arrival ;  and  found  that  every  information 
had  been  anticipated  by  the  intelligence  we  had  already 
received,  excepting  that  which  related  to  the  place  where 
thiie  valuable  relique  was  now  deposited.  This,  however, 
the-''  readily  gave  us.  We  were  told  that  it  was  in  the 
hold  of  an  hospital  ship,  named  La  Cause,  in  the  inner 
harbour ;  and  being  provided  with  a  boat,  we  there  found 
it,  half  filled  with  filth,  and  covered  with  rags  of  the  sick 
peoole  on  board4.  It  proved  to  be  an  immense  monolithal 
Sarcophagus,  or,  according  to  the  name  borrowed  by  the 
Greeks  from  the  antient  language  of  Egypt,  a  Sorosb; 
converted,  in  ages  long  posterior  to  its  formation,  into  a 
cistern,  according  to  a  custom  which  has  been  universal 
in  the  East,  wherever  such  receptacles  for  the  dead  have 
been  discovered.  The  nature  of  the  stone,  and  the  testi- 
monies concerning  its  history,  have  been  already  before  the 
public0:  some  repetition  has  therefore  now  occurred  ;  but 
to  repeat  the  whole  of  a  detail  which  was  then  unavoidably 
elaborate,   would  be    considered    not   only   as  tedious,    but 

altogether 


(4)  Mr.  Hamilton  afterwards  saw  it  in  the  same  situation.  "  We  were  conducted," 
says  he,  "  alongside  or'  a  large  hospital  ship,  on  board  of  which  was  the  celebrated 
Alexandrian  Sarcophagus  :  it  had  been  for  se\ei..l  months  in  the  hold,  and  was  intended 
to  be  sent  to  France  the  first  opportunity.  This  monument  was  resigned  to  us  not 
without  much  regret,  as  it  had  long  been  considered  one  of  the  most  valuable 
curiosities  in  Alexandria."'     Hamilton's  A^gyplmca,  p.  403.    Lund.  180Q. 

(5)  See  Jablonski,  Bochart,  Kircher,  &x. 

(6)  See  "  The  Tomb  of  Alexander,"  as  published  by  the  author  in  1805. 


248 


CHAP.  VII. 


ALEXANDRIA. 

altogether  as  a  work  of  supererogation.  The  Soros  is  now 
placed  where  it  is  open  to  the  inspection  of  any  one  who 
may  deem  it  to  be  an  object  of  curiosity.  All  that  the 
author  wishes  to  insist  upon,  as  conveying  indisputable 
evidence,  is,  the  corresponding  testimony  afforded  by  the 
remarkable  nature  of  the  receptacle,  with  the  tradition 
mentioned  by  Leo  Africanus,  and  preserved  among  the 
Moslems  to  the  hour  of  its  removal1:  a  species  of  evidence 
which  may  fairly  be  deemed  internal;  because  it  is  impos- 
sible that  a  set  of  ignorant  barbarians  could  be  aware  that 
the  object  of  their  veneration  was,  in  fact,  that  particular 
species  of  conditory,  which  Herodian,  speaking  of  the  Tomb 
of  Alexander,  has  designated  by  the  term  Soros ;  still  less 
that  the  same  Soros,  inscribed  with  the  sacred  ivriting  of 

the 


(l)  The  Arabs  retain  both  the  name  and  the  aera  of  Alexander  in  their  calendars ; 
calling  him,  always,  \ji.^j*"  3^  bicornis ;  and  Golius  explains  the  true  cause  of  this 
appellation.  "  Arabes  eum  Bicornem  vocant,  non  tarn  ob  partum  Orientis  etOccidentis 
imperium,  quam  a  cornutd  Alexandri  effigie,  nummis  exhibitd,  ut  Jovis  Ammonis  filius 
agnosceretur."  (Fid.  Annot.  in  lib.  ii.  Sulpit.  Sever,  c.  25.  p.  343.  Edit.  Horn. 
L.  Bat.  1654.)  The  image  of  Alexander,  so  expressed,  appears  upon  the  medals  of 
Lysimachus,  and  was  common  to  many  States  after  his  death,  although  it  is  always  falsely 
considered  as  the  head  of  some  other  person.  His  image  also  appears  very  commonly 
covered  with  the  spoils  of  a  lion  ;  when  it  is  improperly  considered  as  a  young  Hercules : 
sometimes  also  it  is  seen  armed  with  a  helmet,  and  then  it  is  confounded  with  the 
figures  of  Minerva.  Le  Brun  has  been  censured  and  ridiculed  for  introducing  what 
has  been  called  a  head  of  Minerva,  upon  the  figure  of  Alexander,  in  his  celebrated 
paintings  of  his  battles ;  whereas  it  is,  in  all  probability,  a  genuine  portrait  of  that 
hero.  Alexander  is  thus  alluded  to  in  the  Tailor's  Story  before  the  Sultan  of  Casgar, 
in  the  Arabian  Tales.  "  Sir,"  said  he,  "  you  will  be  pleased  to  know  that  this  day  is 
Friday,  the  18th  of  the  month  Saffar,  in  the  year  653  from  the  retreat  of  our  great 
Prophet  from  Mecca  to  Medina,  and  in  the  year  7320  of  the  Epocha  of  the  gheat 

ISKENDER  WITH  TWO  HORNS." 


ALEXANDRIA. 


249 


the   priests,    is    thereby    demonstrably   the   tomb   of  some     chap.  vii. 
person  deified  by  the  Egyptians,  as  Alexander  incon  testably 
was  after  his  interment*. 

In  the  evening  of  the  same  day,  about  five  o'clock,  we 
waited  upon  Monsieur  Le  Roy,  Ordonnateur  de  la  Marine, 
in  consequence  of  receiving,  by  Menou's  Aid-de-Camp,  an 
order  from  the  French  General  to  see  the  other  antiquities 
their  army  had  collected  to  send  to  France,  and  which 
they  had  been  compelled  to  surrender.  This  gentleman 
treated  us  with  great  politeness,  and  conducted  us  to  some 
magazines  near  the  old  port:  here  many  of  the  reliques  were 
then  deposited  which  are  now  in  our  national  Museum. 
A  Soros,  brought  from  Grand  Cairo,  was  upon  the  beach 
near  those  magazines,  together  with  part  of  another  from 
Upper  Egypt,  ready  to  be  shipped  off,  as  soon  as  an 
opportunity  might  offer.  Near  to  these  was  also  placed  a 
granite  fragment,  being  the  hand  of  a  colossal  statue 
discovered  by  the  French  engineers  upon  the  site  of 
antient  Memphis3,  and  supposed  to  have  belonged  to 
the  Temple  of  Vulcan4.     Another  fragment,  exactly  similar 

to 


(2)  See  Lucian,  vol.  I.  p.  29O.  edit .  Amstelod.  Blaeu.  Marcus  Aurelius  Alexander 
Severus  was  born  in  a  temple  sacred  to  Alexander  the  Great,  and  thence  received  the 
name  of  Alexander.  See  also  the  various  proofs  of  Alexander's  deification  adduced  in 
the  Tomb  of  Alexander,  Camb.  1805  ;  and  the  additional  evidence  of  the  fact,  as  pub- 
lished by  Dr.  Henley,  in  the  Appendix  to  that  work. — "  'Errtih}  'AXefaptyos  fiovXsrai 
6e6g  that,  tara  Qtog.  Quandoquidem  Alexander  vult  esse  Deus,  esto  Deus."  vElian. 
lib.  ii.  Far.  Hist.  cap.  19. — See  also  Fbssius,  de  Cultu  Alexandri  Magni,  torn.  II. 
cap.  17.  p.  602.    Amst.  1642,  &c. 

(3)  Where  the  villages  of  Metrahenny  and  Mohannan  are  now  situated. 

(4)  The  reader  will  find  this  Colossus  mentioned  in  the  "  Rapport  fait  au  Premier 
Consul  Bonaparte,  par  le  Ciloyen  Ripaud,"  in  the  Appendix  to  Peltier's  edit,  of  Denon's 

VOL.  III.  2  K  Travels 


■ 


3SU?iO' 


250 


CHAP.  VII. 


ALEXANDRIA. 

to  this,  is  yet  lying  among  some  Ruins  upon  the  shore  to 
the  east  of  Alexandria,  believed  by  the  French  to  denote 
the  site  of  Canopus1.  An  intentional  reserve  has  been 
carefully  maintained  by  their  writers,  upon  the  subject 
of  all  the  antiquities  that  came  into  our  possession :  on 
this  account  the  places  where  some  of  them  were  dis- 
covered are  still  unknown  in  this  country.  We  saw  also 
three  large  Syenite  statues,  each  in  a  sitting  attitude,  holding 
the  Crux  Ansata  in  the  left  hand:  these  were  repre- 
sentations of  the  twofold  symbol  worshipped  by  the 
Egyptians  with  a  lion's  head2.  The  largest  statues  of  this 
form  are  those  of  Tliebes,  about  four  hundred  miles  to 
the  south  of  Cairo3,  one  of  which  has  been  commonly 
called  Memnons  Statue.  From  the  drawings  made  of 
those  figures  by  Denon4,  it  is  plain  that  neither  of  them 
were  represented  with  human  heads ;  but  that  they  cor- 
responded with  the  double  image  of  a  human  figure 
with  a  lion's  head,  common  among  the  antiquities  of 
Egypt;  the  nose  and  under-jaw  of  the  leonine  bust 
belonging  to  each  of  them  having  fallen  off,  but  the  rest  of 

the 


Travels  in  Egypt,  torn.  II.  p.  38.    Lond.  1802.  but  without  any  specific  description.     Its 
dimensions  alone  are  stated  —  "  Un  Colosse  a" environ  trente-cinq  pieds  de proportion." 

(1)  It  is  represented,  with  part  of  a  Sphinx,  and  other  broken  pieces  of  sculpture,  in 
one  of  the  plates  belonging  to  the  large  Paris  edition  of  Denon's  Travels.  See  torn.  II. 
Plate  3.  "  Ruines  de  Canope." 

(2)  See  the  Plate  representing  Antiquities  found  at  Saccara. 

(3)  According  to  Norden,  405  miles,  who  makes  the  distance  equal  to  135  French 
leagues.    See  Drawings  of  some  Ruins,  &c.  published  by  the  Royal  Society  in\7A\ .  p.  0. 

(4)  See  Plate  44  of  the  large  Paris  edition  of  the  Voyage  en  Egypte  par  Vivcnt 
Denon. 


ALEXANDRIA. 


251 


the  head   being  similar  to  that  which  appeared  up.on  the    CHAP-  vu. 

sta.ues  here  shewn  to  us  by   Monsieur  Le  Roy,  and  since 

renoved  to  our  national  Museum'.     This  is  so  evident,  that 

it    s  remarkable  none   of  the  travellers  who  have   visited 

Thebes    have    paid    attention    to    the    fact.      They    were 

perhaps    misled,     by    expecting    to    find   the    image    of   a 

human   form,    as    belonging    to   the    supposed    statue    of 

Memnon.     Indeed  Norden,  in  the  design  he  made  upon  the 

spot,  as  appears   by  the   etching   he    afterwards   engraved 

from  it6,  has  attempted   a  faint  delineation   of  the  human 

countenance,    by  introducing   an    imperfect  restoration   of 

the  features,  as  they  were  suggested  to  his  imagination  by 

the  appearance  of  the  stone.     Pococke  used  still  greater 

freedom7;   but  Denon  accurately  delineated  the  figures  as  he 

found    them.      According   to   his   plate,   there   is   not    the 

smallest   trace   left  of  any  human   countenance ;    and  the 

back  of  the  head,  in  each  statue,  agrees  with  those  figures 

which  have  the  leonine  bust.     Strabo,  who  was  himself  at 

Thebes,  and  mentions  these  colossal  statues,  does  not  say 

that  either  of  them  was  a  statue  of  Memnon ;  but  that  they 

were  near  the  Memnonium ;  and  that  a  sound  issued  every 

day  from  one  of  them8. 

Within 


(5)  See  also  the  Plate  of  the  Antiquities  found  at  Saccara,  as  before  referred  to. 

(6)  See  Norden's  Etchings,  tab.  I.  as  before  cited.    Lond.  1741. 

(7)  Pococke's  Observations  upon  Egypt. 

(S)  Strabon.  Geogr.  lib.  xv\i.  p.  1155.  Ed.  Oxon.  The  observation  of  Strabo  may 
remove  the  difficulty  that  has  always  attended  any  endeavour  to  reconcile  the  statue 
from  which  the  sound  issued  with  that  of  an  actual  statue  of  Memnon ;  Memnonis  saxea 
effigies,  as  mentioned  by  Tacitus.  The  persons  who  heard  the  sound  might  attribute 
that  sound  to  Memnon,  without  considering  the  statue  to  be  his  statue. 


m    ■     ■     ¥& 


252  ALEXANDRIA. 

chap. vii.  Within   the  magazine  we  saw  many  other  antiquities; 

particularly  the  head  of  a  colossal  image  of  the  Ram,  or  of 
Ammon,  whose  name  and  worship,  derived  from  ^Ethiopia1, 
became  a  source  of  the  most  absurd  and  fabulous  history 
among  the  Greeks2.  Also,  two  oblong  slabs  of  stone,  adorned 
with  hieroglyphical  sculpture,  together  with  an  Egyptian 
coffin  of  stone,  adapted  to  the  human  form ;  and  the  frag- 
ment of  a  Soros,  both  brought  from  Upper  Egypt.  Also 
other  antiquities,  the  description  of  which  might  afford 
very  pleasing  employment:  but  a  volume,  rather  than  a 
chapter,  would  be  required  for  the  undertaking  ;  and  all  these 
reliques  are  now  under  the  guardianship  of  scholars  amply 
qualified  to  satisfy  the  public  curiosity  concerning  their 
history.  At  the  house  of  General  Friant,  we  were  afterwards 
shewn  two  statues  of  white  marble  ;  one  of  Marcus  Aurelius, 
and  the  other  of  Septimius  Severus,  which  are  also  now  in 
England. 

The 


(1)  See  Vossius  de  Orig.  et  Prog.  Idol.  lib.  ii.  c.  11.  Amst.  1642.  Kircher  CEdip. 
jEgypt.  Synt.  3.  cap.  6.  Rom.  1652.  Pauw  Philos.  Diss.  part.  iii.  sect.  J.  Lond.  I?g5, 
&c.  &c.  The  reader  may  also  consult  Diodorus,  and  the  jEthiopica  of  Heliodorus. 
Kircher  has  cited  a  very  remarkable  communication,  made  to  him  by  an  Abyssinian, 
upon  this  curious  subject,  which  he  has  thus  translated  into  Latin.  "  Quoniam  a  me 
petiisti  tibi  dicer e  aliquid  de  Diis  &thiopum.  Noveris  quod  palres  nostri  cum  Gentilibus 
et  Pagants  passim  commiscerentur,  inceperunt  discere   opera  eorum ;    et  fecerunt  sibi 

Deos  privatos,  et  adoraverunt   eos,    sculpturam   manu   hominis  perfectam Et 

ego  adhuc  multa  in  Ethiopia  in  Barnagasch  hujusmodi  vidi ;  erant  autem  magna  ex 
parte  referentia  caput  Leonis  et  Arietis  ;  nomen  eorum,  Amuna." 

(2)  "  Plane  ridiculum  est,  velle  Ammonis  nomen  petere  a  Gratis :  ciim  iEgyptii 
ipsi  'A/xovv  appellent,  teste  etiam  Herodoto."  Vossius  de  Orig.  &c.  Idolat.  lib.  ii.  c.  11. 
torn.  I.  p.  362.  Amst.  1642.  The  name  cf  the  Supreme  Being  among  the  Brahmins 
of  India  is  the  first  syllable  only  of  this  word,  pronounced  AM. 


ALEXANDRIA. 


253 


Cleopatra's 
Needles. 


The   next   morning,    September  the   eleventh,   another    f11^-™ 
French    officer    attended    us,    in    company  with  Mr.  Ha- 
mihon,     to    the    Obelisks,     commonly    called    Cleopatra  s 
Needles.       One   alone   is    now   standing ;    the  other,  lying 
down,  measures  seven  feet  square  at  the  base,  and  sixty- six 
feet  in  length.     They  are   so  well  known,  that  it  is   not 
necessary  to   give  a  very  particular  description  of  them3. 
They  are  covered  with  hieroglyphics,   cut  to  the  depth  of 
two  inches  into  the  stone,  which  consists  of  red  granite  ; 
but,  owing  to  a  partial  decomposition  of  the  feldspar,  its 
red    colour   has    faded    towards    the    surface.      A   similar 
decomposition      has     frequently    hastened    the    decay    of 
other   antient  monuments ;    and   it   offers  proof  of  a  fact 
worthy  the  notice  of  persons  employed   in  national  archi- 
tecture; namely,   that  granite  is  less  calculated  for  works 
of  duration,  than  pure  homogeneous  marble,   or  common 
limestone.     The  action  of  the  atmosphere  conduces   to  the 
hardness  and  durability  of  the  two  latter ;  but  it  never  fails  to 

corrode 


(3)  After  the  English  were  in  possession  of  Alexandria,  a  subscription  was  opened 
among  the  officers  of  the  army  and  navy,  for  the  purpose  of  removing  the  cumbent 
Obelisk  to  Great  Britain.  With  the  money  thus  raised  they  purchased  one  of  the 
vessels  that  Menou  had  sunk  in  the  old  port  of  Alexandria ;  this  they  raised,  and 
prepared  for  its  reception.  The  work  went  on  rapidly  ;  the  Obelisk  was  turned,  and  its 
lower  surface  was  found  to  be  in  a  high  state  of  preservation.  It  was  then  moved,  by 
means  of  machinery  constructed  for  the  purpose,  towards  the  vessel  prepared  to 
receive  it.  Lord  Cavan  presided  in  this  undertaking.  A  naval  officer,  who  was  present 
upon  the  occasion,  brought  over  to  England  the  plans  projected  for  conveying  this 
splendid  trophy  of  the  success  of  our  arms  to  the  Metropolis  of  this  country ;  and 
there  is  every  reason  to  believe  the  design  would  have  been  accomplished.  Its  inter- 
ruption took  place  in  consequence  of  an  order  preventing  the  sailors  from  assisting  at 
the  work. 


254 


CHAP.  VII. 


Pompey's 
Pillar. 


ALEXANDRIA. 

corode  and  to  decompose  substances  where  feldspar  is  a 
constituent.  Examples  may  be  adduced  of  marble,  after 
continual  exposure  to  air  and  moisture  during  two  thousand 
years,  still  retaining  the  original  polish  upon  its  surface 
unaltered ;  but  granite,  under  similar  circumstances,  has 
not  only  undergone  alteration,  but,  in  certain  cases,  has 
crumbled,  and  fallen  into  the  form  of  gravel,  owing  to  the 
decomposition  of  the  feldspar.  Instances  of  such  disinte- 
gration may  be  noticed  among  the  ruins  of  Alexandria  Troas, 
anc  over  all  the  district  of  Troas  in  general.  Some  of  the 
granite  columns  used  by  the  Turks  in  the  fabrication  of  their 
cannon-balls  have  been  found  in  such  a  state  of  decompo- 
sition, that,  although  sufficiently  compact  to  admit  of  their 
receiving  a  spheroidal  form,  yet,  when  fired  at  our  ships, 
the  substance  shivered,  and  flew  about  in  small  pieces, 
like  canister  shot,  proving  a  very  destructive  species  of 
ammunition'. 

We  were  now  desirous  of  visiting  the  stupendous  Column 
so  long  distinguished  by  the  appellation  of  "  Vompeys 
Pillar."  It  is  visible  from  almost  every  spot  in  the  neigh- 
bourhood of  Alexandria.  The  Inscription  upon  its  pedestal 
(containing,  as  many  have  believed,  the  name  of  the  Emperor 
Diocletian)  was  not  then  known  to  exist,  although  it  had  been 
mentioned  by  the  Consul  Maillet2,  and  after  him  by  Pococke3. 

The 


(1)  The  author  has  specimens  of  this  decomposed  Granite,  which  the  Turks  em- 
ployed against  our  fleet,  during  its  passage  of  the  Dardanelles,  under  Admiral  Duckworth. 
The  Feldspar  has  entirely  lost  its  colour ;  and  the  mass  is  become  friable,  like  loosely 
cohering  Breccia. 

(2)  Descr.  de  L'Egypte,  tome  I.  p.  180.    a  la  Haye,  1740. 

(3)  Descr.  of  the  East,  vol.  I.  p.  8.    Lond.  1748. 


ALEXANDRIA. 


255 


The  circumstances  of  our  visit  may  therefore  be  (deemed  ,chap.  vh. 
carious  ;  as  Mr.  Hamilton  was  one  of  our  party,  who 
afterwards  assisted  in  the  development  of  this  important 
record,  and  who  himself  discovered  the  name,  believed  to  be 
that  of  Diocletian,  soon  after  the  Inscription  was  again 
recognised4.  When  wre  had  gratified  our  curiosity  by  a 
general  survey  of  this  surprising  monument,  and  had  gazed 
for  some  time  in  utter  astonishment  at  the  sight  of  a  column 
of  granite,  whose  shaft  alone,  of  one  entire  mass,  with  a 
diameter  of  eight  feet,  measures  sixty- three  in  height5, 
Mr.  Hamilton  expressed  a  wish  to  find  something  remaining 
of  the  Inscription  mentioned  by  Pococke.  In  search  of  this, 
we  examined  the  four  sides  of  the  pedestal:  the  western 
side  seemed  to  be  corroded,  as  many  authors  have  described 
it  to  be  ;  but  not  a  trace  of  any  existing  inscription  could 
be  discerned.  The  author  wishes  to  lay  some  stress  upon 
this  singular  fact,  that  due  merit  may  be  attributed  to  those 
who  have  since  so  remarkably  recovered  the  characters  of 
that  Inscription ;  after  it  had  also  baffled  every  research  of 
the  French  during  their  long  residence  in  the  country,  as 
their  own  writers  do  acknowledge6.     Mr.  Hamilton,  who 

participated 


(4)  Mr.  Hamilton  communicated  this  circumstance  in  a  Letter  to  the  author. 

(5)  The  height  of  the  whole  column,  including  the  capital,  shaft,  and  pedestal,  is 
eighty-eight  feet,  six  inches,  as  measured  by  the  French  engineers. 

(6)  See  particularly  the  "Rapport  par  Charles  Norry,"  in  the  Appendix  to  Peltier's 
edition  of  Denon's  Travels,  (Lond.  1802.)  as  it  was  read  before  the  Institute.  "  It  is 
greatly  to  be  regretted,"  says  Norry,  "  that  an  inscription  formerly  placed  on  one  of  the 
sides  of  the  pedestal  should  be  no  longer  legible." 


256 


ALEXANDRIA.. 


chap,  vii.  participated  the  labour,  has  since  published  an  account  of  the 
transaction  :  but  the  person  to  whom  the  literary  world 
has  been  exclusively  indebted  for  first  making  known  tthe 
actual  existence  of  the  Inscription,  after  its  supposed  dis- 
appearance, has  never  yet  been  mentioned  as  the  discoverer 
of  it,  in  any  of  the  publications  that  have  appeared  upon 
the  subject.  At  the  time  of  our  visit,  it  was  considered 
not  merely  as  illegible,  but  altogether  as  lost ;  neither  Mr. 
Hamilton,  nor  the  author,  nor  any  other  individual  of  our  pairty, 
being  able  to  discern  even  the  part  of  the  pedestal  where 
it  had  been  inscribed.  This  may  serve  to  explain  the  diifri- 
culty  which  afterwards  attended  its  recovery,  when  a  whole 
day  was  frequently  required  for  the  purpose  of  obtaining 
a  single  letter.  Mr.  Hamilton  arrived  in  Alexandria,  as  it 
has  been  related  by  him ',  after  the  Inscription  had  been 
found,  and  the  undertaking  for  copying  it  had  been  begun. 
He  himself  assisted  in  making  a.  facsimile  of  it ;  and  it  was 
he,  as  was  before  stated,  who  observed  the  letters  which 
are  now  believed  to  complete  the  name  of  the  Emperor 
Diocletian.  There  is  indeed  good  reason  to  conjecture 
that  Diocletian  s  name  is  mentioned  in  that  Inscription ;  but 
it  by  no  means  necessarily  follows  that  the  pillar  was 
erected  by  him ;  and  some  reasons  will  be  given  in  the 
sequel  to  shew  that  the  legend  admits  of  a  different,  although 
a  doubtful,  reading.  At  present,  in  justice  to  the  memory  of 
a  distinguished,  but  now  lamented  officer,  it  is  necessary  to 

prove 


(1)  iEgyptiaca,  p.  403.    Lond.  I8O9. 


ALKX  \NDRIA. 


257 


prove  that  all  the  information  afforded  by  the  Inscription      ^iap.vii. 
itself  would   have  been   consigned  to   everlasting   oblivion,     Discovery 

°  of  the 

butforthe  important  discovery  made  by  the  late  Lieutenant-  inscription. 
colonel  Squire  of  some  remaining  characters  upon  the  pedestal, 
while  Mr.  Hamilton,  and  his  companion,  Major  Leake,  were 
in  Upper  Egypt*.  Therefore,  whatsoever  maybe  the  nature 
of  the  intelligence  derived  from  any  subsequent  examination 
of  those  characters,  it  will  be  due  in  the  first  place  to  the 
individual,  who  made  known  the- circumstance  of  their  ex- 
istence ;  for  not  only  the  Members  of  the  French  Institute, 
but  all  who  were  with  our  army  in  Egypt,  and  almost  every 

traveller 

(2)  This  circumstance  is  mentioned  in  a  Letter  to  his  Brother,  in  the  following  words  : 
"  I  believe  the  Paper  presented  to  the  Antiquarian  Society  contains  the  best  history  of 
the  discovery  of  the,  Alexandrian  Inscription "  (alluding  to  the  misrepresentations 
published  upon  the  subject  by  Colonel  Walsh  and  Sir  R.  Wilson).  "  I  wish  not  to  be 
brought  forward  in  any  literary  dispute  ;  but  the  fact  is,  thai  most  of  the  letters  were 
discovered  by  me  while  Messrs.  Hamilton  and  Leake  were  in  Upper  Egypt.  I  had 
seen  the  same  Inscription  in  Pococke's  Travels  before,  and  knew  of  its  existence  from  that 
book."  The  next  Extract  is  taken  from  a/ormer  Letter  written  by  Colonel  Squire  to 
his  Brother,  from  Alexandria  :  it  relates  to  his  discovery  of  the  Inscription 5  and  is  dated 
Alexandria,  Christmas  Day,  1801.  "  Here  let  me  remark,"  says  Colonel  Squire, 
"  that  it  is  not  impossible  but  that  part  of  the  Inscription  on  the  great  pillar  may  be 
read  :  II  and  O  are  legible  enough  ;  and  by  other  remains  of  characters,  /  can  plainly 
perceive  that  the  Inscription  consisted  of  four  lines,  in  Greek.  With  sulphur,  an  impression 
of  these  characters  might  be  taken,  aud  perhaps  something  satisfactory  discovered. 
Before  we  quit  the  country,  I  will  certainly  endeavour  to  make  the  experiment." 

The  public  will  therefore  perceive  that  all  idea  of  attempting  the  discovery  is  due  to 
Colonel  So.uire  ;  that  he  had  the  greatest  share  in  its  execution,  and  that  even  the 
device  of  the  sulphur  is  due  to  him.  The  Consul  Maillet,  about  fifty  years  before,  had 
recommended  wax  for  the  same  purpose :  "  Ce  quil  y  a  de  certain,  cest  qu'au  bas  de 
sonfut,  du  cote  de  Vouest,  ou  trouve  une  inscription  Grecque,  dont  je  ne  ctois  put  qu'on 

ait  encore  tire  de  copie Le  seul  moyen  de  I' avoir,  seroit,  a  mon  avis,  d'en  prendre 

Vempreinte  sur  de  la  cire  molle."  Description  de  l'Egypte,  torn.  I.  p.  ISO.  a  la 
Haye,  1740. 

VOL.  III.  2  L 


258 


CHAP.  VII. 


ALEXANDRIA. 

traveller  who  has  visited  Alexandria  since  the  time  of 
Pococke,  did  consider  the  Inscription  as  being  entirely  lost. 
As  for  the  Column  itself,  the  shaft  is  of  much  earlier 
antiquity  than  either  the  capital  or  the  pedestal.  A  similar 
shaft,  of  the  same  kind  of  granite,  and  nearly  of  equal  mag- 
nitude, has  been  already  described'  among  the  ruins  of 
another  city,  built  also  by  the  founder  of  Alexandria; 
remaining,  like  this,  alone,  without  any  contiguous  archi- 
tecture serving  to  prove  that  a  pillar  of  such  vast  dimen- 
sions belonged  to  any  temple,  colonnade,  or  other  edifice 
of  the  antient  city.  It  was  before  suggested,  in  the 
account  given  of  that  remarkable  relique,  that  each  of  these 
columns  may  have  supported  a  statue :  but  this  notion  of 
the  use  of  a  single  pillar  is  not  found  to  be  warranted  by 
any  evidence  on  which  we  can  rely.  It  is  certain  that  some 
conspicuous  relique  was  placed  upon  the  capital  of  the, 
Alexandrian  Column ;  a  circular  cavity  having  been  there 
discovered,  proving  that  there  was  formerly  a  projection 
for  its  support".  A  question  then  naturally  arises  ;  Whether 
the  antient  inhabitants  of  Asia  Minor,  of  Egypt,  and  of 
Greece,  were  accustomed  to  use  pillars  for  other  purposes 

than 


(1)  See  Section  the  First,  Chap.  VI.  of  Part  II.  of  these  Travels. 

(2)  Norry  describes  a  circular  cavity,  two  inches  deep,  upon  the  summit  j  "  which," 
says  he,  "  gives  reason  to  suppose  that  there  has  formerly  been  a  projection  on  the  top 
for  supporting  a  statue;  but  this  is  merely  conjecture."  {See  "  Rapport,"  &c.  as  before 
cited.)  However,  we  have  reason  for  more  than  conjecture  upon  this  subject,  as  will 
be  manifest  in  the  sequel  5  not  indeed  that  a  statue  was  here  placed,  whose  pedestal 
would  hardly  have  been  circular;  but  a  cinerary  urn,  for  the  foot  of  which  a  circular 
cavity  is  peculiarly  suitable. 


ALEXANDRIA. 


259 


than  those  of  architecture  ?  This  question  may  be  decidedly  chap,  vfi. 
answered  in  the  affirmative.  The  Stelce  of  the  Antients  had 
precisely  the  form  of  the  shaft  of  this  Column  ;  although 
no  instance  has  yet  been  observed  of  a  sepulchral  pillar  of 
such  magnitude.  Indeed,  until  lately,  the  Stelce  themselves 
had  been  remarkably  overlooked  :  they  were  as  so  many 
stumbling-blocks  to  antiquaries;  and  nothing  puzzled  literary 
travellers  more  than  the  numerous  examples  of  small  pillars 
of  granite,  porphyry,  and  marble,  scattered  over  the  shores 
of  the  iEgean  Sea :  these  were  found  generally  in  the  vicinity 
of  tombs,  or  near  to  the  walls  of  cities  where  tombs  v/ere 
situated ;  being  always  insulated,  and  generally  without 
capitals  or  pedestals.  The  Turks,  imitating  the  customs  of 
their  predecessors,  have  introduced  them  into  their  cene- 
teries.  Now  and  then  a  modern  structure  exhibits  several 
sUlce  of  different  sizes,  collected  together,  and  made  to  serve 
as  props  for  the  building:  in  such  instances,  capitals  and 
pedestals,  in  barbarous  taste,  and  of  various  materials,  have 
been  added  to  them.  Remains  of  this  kind  may  be  dis- 
cerned in  some  of  the  edifices  erected  in  the  lower  ages  of 
the  Roman  Empire.  Possibly,  then,  this  pillar,  stupendous 
as  it  is,  was  erected  upon  some  memorable  occasion,  as  a 
sepulchral  monument.  A  few  observations  will  soon  shew 
whether  this  possible  illustration  of  its  origin  be  also  probable: 
nay  more;  whether  we  have  not  strong  presumptive  evidence 
to  prove,  that  a  monument  of  this  form  was  actually  erected 
in  this  place,  and  for  the  purpose  of  a  stele  or  sepulchral 
pillar. 

After  a  vain  search  for  the  Inscription,  we  observed  that 

the 


260 


CHAP.  VII. 


ALEXANDRIA. 

the  pedestal  itself  did  not  rest  upon  the  sand ;  but  that,  by 
removing  some  of  this,  we  might  get  beneath  it,  and  examine 
the  manner  of  its  support.  Here,  to  our  surprise,  we  found 
that  the  whole  of  this  immense  pile,  consisting  of  three 
parts,  pedestal,  shaft,  and  capital,  was  sustained  upon  a 
small  prop  of  stone,  about  four  feet  square,  exactly  as  it  is 
described  by  Paul  Lucas1,  although  positively  contradicted 
by  Nprden*.  Around  this  central  base,  but  in  very  irregular 
positions,  had  been  placed  other  masses,  the  sepulchral 
fragments  of  antient  Egyptian  monuments,  which  did  not 
appear  to  contribute  to  the  support  of  the  Column,  but  to 
have  been  brought  there  for  the  purpose  of  maintaining  the 
prop  in  its  adjusted  situation  until  the  pedestal  could  be 
raised  upon  it.  The  prop  itself  consists  of  a  mass  of  that 
beautiful  kind  of  breccia,  called,  peculiarly,  Egyptian.  The 
four  sides  of  it  are  inscribed  with  hieroglyphic  figures  ;  but 
the  position  of  these  figures  shews  that  the  prop  has  its 
original  base  uppermost,  for  they  appear  inverted :  thus 
affording  a  complete  proof,  that  the  stone,  whereon  they  are 
inscribed,  belonged  to  other  more  antient  works ;  and  that 
these  must  have  been  in  ruins  before  the  Column  was  erected 
upon  its  present  basis3.     But  this  is  not  all  the  intelligence 

we 


(1)  Voyage  fait  par  Ordre  de  Louis  XIV.  en  1714.    torn.  II.  p.  23.    Amst.  1744.    ' 

(2)  Travels  in  Egypt  and  Nubia,  vol.  I.  p.  16.    Lond.  17 57. 

(3)  See  the  Plate  annexed;  where  those  hieroglyphics  are  represented,  according  to 
a  design  which  the  author  made  of  them  upon  the  spot,  as  accurately  as  the  difficulty 
of  the  situation,  and  the  imperfect  state  of  those  rude  symbols,  would  admit. 


I 


Inverted  positwn  />/  the  hieroglyphics  seen  en  the  sides if tbr  smtare  bir<rw  pnvt  under  tt>e  pedestal  <f Jbmpeys Hilar, 

/'///>/>:,/,.■,/  ~BforTi5.itJ3  /»■  TCaddl  .<•//: Danes,  Smnd'.Zendtm  . 


ALEXANDRIA. 


261 


we  derive  from  the  topsyturvy  position  of  the  hieroglyphics :  chap. 
we  have,  in  this  curious  circumstance,  most  satisfactory 
evidence  that  this  Column  was  not  set  up,  as  it  now  stands, 
either  by  the  antient  inhabitants  of  Egypt,  or  by  the  people 
of  Alexandria  under  the  Ptolemies;  for  nothing  would  be 
more  absurd,  than  to  suppose  that,  in  an  age  when  Egyptian 
superstitions  were  revered,  and  the  hieroglyphics  were  re- 
garded as  sacred,  such  sacrilegious  work  would  have  been 
tolerated,  as  the  burying  of  the  holy  images  and  symbols, 
pell-mell,  to  prop  and  to  support  a  Corinthian  pillar,  even  if  it 
could  be  admitted  that  such  an  order  of  architecture  then 
existed.  Hence  it  is  manifest,  without  further  inquiry, 
that  this  monument,  as  it  now  appears,  must  be  attributed 
entirely  to  the  Romans ;  since  the  warmest  advocates  for 
the  arts  and  ingenuity  of  the  Arabs  will  not  venture  to 
ascribe  a  work  of  this  kind  to  the  Moslems,  in  any  period 
of  their  history.  This  is  nearly  all  the  intelligence  we  can 
obtain  concerning  it.  The  Inscription  upon  the  pedestal,  as 
its  characters  were  obtained  in  consequence  of  Colonel 
Squire's  discovery,  gives  us  no  information  as  to  the  origin 
of  the  Column,  although  it  may  throw  some  light  upon  its 
restoration  under  its  present  form.  The  only  visible  part 
of  the  legend  is  as  follows:4 

TO ooTATONAYTOKPATOPA 

TONnOAIOYXONAAGEANAPeiAC 

AIO  ....   IANONTON TON 

no enAPXocAirYnTOY 

In 

(4)  See  the  communication  made  by  Dr.  Raine  to  the   Society  of  Antiquaries,  as 
read  before  the  Society,  Feb.  3,  1803. 


262 


CHAP.  VII. 


ALEXANDRIA 

In  the  third  line,  the  fourth,  fifth,  sixth  and  seventh  letters, 
being  indistinct,    were   supplied  by   dotted   characters1,   in 
order  to  complete  a  supposed  reading  of  AIOKAHTIANON. 
But   this   introduction  of  the  name  of  a  Roman   Emperor, 
without  an  epithet   immediately  preceding  it,   is   unusual ; 
and  when  letters  are  thus   to  be  added  by  conjecture,  or  in 
consequence  of  some  imaginary  resemblance,   in   the  indi- 
stinct traces  of  the  original  legend,  to  the  characters  which 
have  been  substituted,  every  person  is  at  liberty  to  make  his 
own  hypothesis  ;  provided  only  that  a  reading  be  produced 
which  shall  contain  exactly  the  number  of  letters  requisite 
to  fill  the  vacant  spaces  upon  the  stone.     For  example,  the 
perpendicular  line  of  the  dotted  K,  as  proposed  in  the  paper 
read  to  the  Society  of  Antiquaries2,  may  with  equal  authority 
be  written  N.     The  two  lines  of  the  A  may  also  belong  to 
A.     The  cross  bar  of  the  H  may  be  the  lower  line  of  A,  and 
the  T  may  with  equal  probability  be  written  p ;  and  when  this 
is  granted,  the  reading  becomes  evidently  AIONAAPIANON. 
The  use  of  AI02,  as  an  epithet,   answering   to  DIWS,  so  fre- 
quently bestowed  upon   Roman  Emperors,  and  particularly 
upon  Hadrian3,  although  authorized  in  this  sense  by  Hesiod 
and     by    Homer,    is    perhaps    unknown    in    Greek   prose. 

Hadrian 


(1)  According  to  the  plan  pursued  by  Taylor,  when  he  added  the  letters  supposed 
to  be  wanted  in  the  Marmor  Sandvicense. 

(2)  See  Dr.  Raine's  communication,  as  above. 

(3)  Sic  passim.  "  Ut  Divus  Hadrianus  in  quadam  oratione  ait."  &c.  (Uljnauus. 
lib.50.  Dig.  tit  15.  de  Censibus,  &c.  &c.)  IMP .  CAESARI .  DIVI .  HADRIANI .  fee. 
Donii  Inscript.  Antiq.  ah  Gorio.  Classis  tertia,  No.lG,  See  also  Nos.  17,  18,  &i 
Florent.  1731. 


ALEXANDRIA. 

Hadrian  was  called,  by  the  Greeks4,  both  AAPIANOC 
OAYMniOC  and  GEOC  OAYMniOC.  The  epithet  Aiog  was 
consequently  appropriate ,  and  the  more  so,  as  it  was 
poetical;  the  language  of  poetry  being  often  adopted  in 
Greek  inscriptions,  which  are  very  commonly  written  in 
metre3.  At  the  same  time,  it  must  be  confessed  that  there 
is  this  powerful  objection  to  the  reading  now  proposed; 
that  among  all  the  epithets  applied  to  Roman  Emperors 
which  are  preserved  by  Gronovius,  Goltzius,  Gorius, 
Vaillant,  Harduin,  and  Eckhel,  there  is  not  an  example 
where  Aiog  is  thus  used.  In  this  uncertainty  with  regard 
to  the  four  letters  which  immediately  follow  AIO  in  this 
Inscription,  it  must  remain  for  some  future  traveller  to 
determine  what  the  true  reading  really  is.  The  probability 
is  certainly  strong  for  AIOKAHTI  ANON,  but  this  is  by  no 
means  certain;  and  in  favour  of  AIONAAPIANON,  it  may 
be  urged,  that  Sicard,  as  cited  by  Brotier0,  who  examined 

the 


263 


CHAP.  VII. 


(4)  See  Harduin.  Num.  Antiq.  p.  329.  Paris,  1684.  Also  Vaillant.  Num.  Imp. 
pp.  34,  30.  L.  Par.  1698.  Spanhem  mentions  an  Athenian  medal  with  this  inscription 
to  Hadrian  :  OAYMIIION  .  IftTHPA  .  TON  .  EYEPrETHN .  De  Prcestantia  et 
Usu  Num.  p.  384.    Amst.  1671. 

(5)  Such  inscriptions  are  commonly  found  in  Asia  Minor,  and  among  the  ruins  of 
Paphos  in  Cyprus ;  also  in  the  Island  of  Rhodes.  See  Part  II.  Sect.  I.  of  these  Travels, 
Chap.  8. 

(rj)  Sicard  believed  the  name  to  be  that  of  Dionysius  Ptolemceus,  brother  of 
Cleopatra,  by  whose  order  Pompey  was  assassinated.  "  Serapeum  fait  in  vico,  cui 
nomen  Necropolis,  prope  Columnam  Pompeii,  ut  vulgo  loquuntur ;  quam  verius 
columnam  Dionysii  Ptolemcei  dicerent,  ut  ex  semesis  inscriptiones  Uteris  observavit 
P.  Sicard  egregius  yEgyptiacarum  antiquitatum  indagator.  {Vid.  Brotier.  Annot.  in 
Tacit.  Hist.  lib.  iv.  cap.  84.)  The  circumstance  of  Sicard's  maintaining  that  the  name 
at  the  beginning  of  the  third  line  of  the  Inscription  was  Dionysius,  &c.  proves, 
at  least,  that  he  read  AION,  and  not  AIOK. 


ALEXANDRIA. 

the  Inscription  long  ago,  declared  the  fourth  letter  to  be  N 
instead  of  K.  In  order  to  account  for  the  introduction  of 
Diocletian  s  name,  the  supposed  gratitude  of  the  people  of 
Alexandria  to  Diocletian,  for  an  allowance  of  corn,  has  been 
mentioned1;  but  there  is  no  authority  in  History  either  for 
the  tribute  itself,  or  for  the  feelings  thereby  believed  to 
have  been  commemorated.  Hadrian,  on  the  contrary,  for 
the  services  he  rendered  to  their  city,  was  pre-eminently 
entitled  to  their  gratitude.  This  is  evident  from  his 
own  observations,  when  speaking  of  Alexandria2:   "  Huic 

EGO     CUNCTA     CONCESSI,     VETERA    PRIVILEGIA     REDDIDI,     NOVA 

sic  addidi,  ut  pr^esenti  gratias  agerent."  Hadrian,  ac- 
cording to  Dio  Cassius,  performed  funeral  rites  to  Pompey3. 
Julius  Caesar  had  done  the  same4;  and  it  is  related,  both 
by  Lucan "  and  by  Valerius  Maximus e,  that  when  the  head 
of  Pompey  was  brought  to  him  in  Alexandria,  he  caused 
it   to   be  burned  with  odours   and  the  most  solemn  rites, 

and 


(1)  "  The  occasion  may  perhaps  be  found  in  that  part  of  the  history  of  this 
Emperor,  where,  after  having  severely  chastised  the  inhabitants  of  Alexandria  ivho  had 
rebelled  against  the  government,  he  established  a  public  allowance  of  corn  for  the  city 
at  two  millions  of  medimni.  See  the  Memoir  read  to  the  Society  of  Antiquaries, 
Feb.  3,  1803,  as  before  cited. 

(2)  Epistola  Hadriani  Aug.  Serviano  Cos.  /Egypt.  Vid.  Vopisc.  in  Satur?iino, 
p.  245. 

(3)  Dio  Cass.  Hist.  Rom.  lib.  lxix.  vol.  II.  p.  115y.    Hamb.  1750. 

(4)  Ibid.  lib.  xlii.  c.  8.  vol.1,  p.  310. 

(5)  De  Bell.  Civil,  lib.  ix.  ad  fin. 

(6)  "  Caput  autem  plurimis  et  prcticsissimis  odoribus  cremandum  curavit."  Vdlerii 
Maximi,  lib.  v.  p.  246.    Paris,  1679- 


ALEXANDRIA.  265 

and  its  ashes  to  be  enshrined  within  an  urn '.     It  sometimes    t  chap.vii. 
was    customary  with  the   Romans    to  place   their   cinerary    sepulchral 

J        origin  of  the 

urns  in  conspicuous  situations,  upon  the  pinnacles  of  lofty  Column- 
and  magnificent  monuments.  The  famous  Cone,  or  Pine- 
apple, of  gilded  brass,  preserved  in  the  Vatican  at  Rome, 
and  originally  placed  upon  the  Mausoleum  of  Hadrian,  was 
perhaps  intended  to  contain  the  ashes  of  that  Emperor : 
and  in  the  examination  of  the  Alexandrian  Column,  we  find 
the  extraordinary  coincidences,  first,  of  the  workmanship, 
which  is  decidedly  Roman ;  secondly,  of  its  form,  which  is 
that  of  a  Stele  or  sepulchral  pillar ;  thirdly,  of  a  circular 
cavity  discovered  upon  its  capital,  as  for  the  reception  of  an 
urn;  all  agreeing  with  its  remarkable  traditionary  appellation 
of  Pompey's  Pillar.  Some  little  variety,  as  might  be  expected, 
appears  in  the  accounts  given  by  writers  of  different  ages, 
with  regard  to  the  manner  in  which  funeral  honours  were 
rendered  to  Pompey's  head  by  Julius  Caesar.  Lucan's  allu- 
sion to  an  urn  is  however  consistent  with  the  Roman  custom 
of  burning  instead  of  burying  the  dead;  and  it  is  supported 
by  the  earlier  testimony  of  Valerius  Maximus.  Appian, 
who  flourished  during  the  subsequent  reigns  of  Trajan 
and  Hadrian,   says   the  head  was  buried;  but  he  adds  the 

remarkable 


(7)  "  Et  placate  caput,  cineresque  in  litore  fuso* 

Colligite,  atque  imam  sparsis  date  manibus  urnani." 

Lucani  de  Bell.  Civil,  lib.  ix.  IO92.     Lips.  1726. 
Fabricius,  in  his  Notes  to  Dio  Cassius  (lib.  xlii.  Note  50.)  mentions  an  antient  gem, 
the  subject  of  which  represented  the  bringing  of  Pompey's  head  to  Caesar.      "  Icon 
ollati  CcBsari  capitis  Pompeii  in  veteri  gemma  apud  Licetum,  p.  248." 
VOL.  III.  2  M 


ALEXANDRIA. 

remarkable  fact  of  a  shrine  constructed  over  it1,  in  a  situation 
exactly  answering  to  that  of  this  pillar,  which  Caesar  dedi- 
cated to  Nemesis,  the  protecting  goddess  of  the  reliques  and 
the  memory  of  deceased  persons.  This,  it  seems,  was  over- 
thrown in  the  time  of  Trajan ;  which  may  explain  the  cause 
of  its  restoration  by  Hadrian.  It  is  also  worthy  of  notice, 
that  Pococke  mentions  a  name  given  to  this  monument  by 
Arabian  historians,  which  bears  testimony  to  the  event 
recorded  by  Appian  ;  inasmuch  as  it  attributes  the  origin  of 
the  work  to  Julius  Caesar9.  The  presumptive  evidence  is 
therefore  somewhat  striking,  as  to  the  corresponding  testi- 
mony borne  by  the  monument  itself  to  the  funeral  honours 
rendered  to  Pompey  both  by  Julius  Caesar  and  by  Hadrian, 
whatsoever  be  the  legend  of  the  Inscription  upon  its  pedestal. 
A  circumstance  recorded  by  Dio  Cassius,  in  his  life  of  Ha- 
drian; may  also  prove  that  this  kind  of  monument  was,  in 
the  age  of  that  Emperor,   no  unusual  mark  of  sepulchral 

dignity  ; 


(1)  Trjv  $e  KtiJHxXrjv  tov  Y\ofnrr]iov  jrpofT^tpofxivyjp  ovv  inriaTT],  ciWci  irpoviTa'^t 
ratyijvai,  Kai-  ri  avr)]  TEMEN02  fipavv,  irpo-  rrji;  7r6Xtuc  irtpiTtOti',  NEME2Efl£ 
TEMEN02  eicaXeiTO'  owip  rV  ifiov  Kard'Yufiaiuv  avTOKpdropa  'Tpa'iavov,  t^oWvrra 
to  iv  AiyvTTTu  ^loveaiuv  yivos,  vrro  tuv  \ovZaiuv  eg  rdc  tov  TroXt/uov  -^piia<:  KaTrjptitpdtj. 
"  Caput  autem  Pompeii  oblatum  aversatur  Ccesar,  sepeliri  jussit  in  suburbis, 
sacelfumque  ibi  dedicavit  Nemeseos ;  quod  nostra  aetate,  quum  Trajanus  Augusms 
Judaeos  exitiali  bello  persequeretur,  ab  his  ob  praesentem  necessitatem  est  dirutum." 
Appiani  Rom.  Hist.  De  Bell.  Civil.  lib.W.  vol.  II.  p.  299.  Ed.  Schweigh.    Lips.  1785. 

(2)  "  Some  Arabian  historians,  on  what  authority  I  know  not,  call  it  the  Palace 
of  Julius  Caesar."  (Pocockes  Descript.  of  the  East,  vol.1,  p.  8.  Lond.  1743.)  The 
authority  is  clearly  found  in  the  circumstance  related  by  Appian  {De  Bell.  Civil,  lib.  ii. 
c.  90.  Lips.  1785.)  of  the  shrme  (riptvoc)  constructed  by  Julius  Caesar  at  the  funeral 
of  Pompey  s  head. 


ALEXANDRIA. 

dignity ;  for  when  he  wished  to  honour  his  horse  Borys- 
thenes  with  funeral  rites  worthy  of  a  deceased  hero,  it  is 
related  that  he  set  up  a  Stele  upon  bis  tomb3. 

From  the  different  accounts  given  by  historians  of  the 
disposal  of  Pompey's  remains,  (his  head  being  honoured  with 
funeral  rites  at  Alexandria4,  and  his  body,  according  to  some 
writers,  burned  and  buried  near  Pelusium5,  while  others  main- 
tain that  its  ashes  were  conveyed  to  Rome6,)  the  place  of  his 
sepulchre  is  involved  in  uncertainty7;  but  every  thing  that 
relates  to  the  historical  evidence  touching  the  funeral  rites 
offered  to  his  memory  by  Roman  Emperors  in  Alexandria,  is 
clear  and  decisive ;  and  when  Dio  Cassius  relates  that  Hadrian, 
in  a  copy  of  verses  which  he  composed,  boasted  he  had 
repaired  the  monument  formerly  raised  to  Pompey8,  it  is 

probable 


(3)  Kai  6  YiopvaQi'i'ns  6  'tirrroQ,  <Z  pdXiara  6np(~>v  tjpeaKero,  arj^tuov  itrriv.  dwoQavSvTi 
yap  avTf  teal  rd<(>ov  tcaTacrKtvarre,  Kal  2THAHN  tart/ae  teal  Emypdj.ip.aTa  ireypax^ey. 
Dio  Cass.  Hist.  Rom.  vol.  II.  lib.  lxix.  p.  115Q.     Hamburg.  i;50. 

(4)  Appian.  De  Bell.  Civil,  lib.  ii.  c.  go.  Lips.  1785.  Valerius  Maximus. 
Lucan.  De  Bell.  Civil,    lib.  ix.    Lips.  1726. 

(5)  Strabon.  Geog.  torn.  II.  lib.xvi.  p.  1081.  lib.  xvii.  p.  1130.  Ed.  Oxon.  1807 . 
Dio.  Cassii,  lib.  xlii.  c.  5.  vol.  I.  p.  3(X).  Hamburg.  1750.  Appiani  Alex.  De  Bellis 
Civil,   lib.  ii.   p.  481.     Par.  1592.       Lucan.  De  Bell.  Civil,  lib.  viii,  &c. 

(6)  Ta  St  \ei\pava  rovWopirrjiov  Kopvr^Xia  Be^ap-ivi]  KofiitrQivra,  irepl  tov  AXfiavov 
tdtficev.    Plutarch,  in  Fit.  Pomp.    Par.  l6'24. 

(7)  "  Atque  erit  ^Egyptos  populis  fortasse  nepotum 

"  Tarn  mendax  Magni  turnulo,  quam  Creta  Tonantis." 

Lucani  de  Bell.  Civil,  lib.  viii.  p.  87 1.    Lips.  1726. 

(8)  Kai  to  pt,vr\p.a  avrov  StetyOappivov  dvoyicocoprjaev.  (Dio  Cass.  Hist.  Rom. 
lib.  lxix.  vol.  II.  Hamburg.  1 750.)  It  should  at  the  same  time  be  observed,  that  Spartian, 
c.  1 4.  together  with  Appian,  and  some  other  writers,  speak  of  a  restoration  by  Hadrian  of 
Pompey's  sepulchre,  at  Pelusium,  near  Mount  Cassius j  that  is  to  say,  the  sepulchre  of  his 

body ; 


268 


CHAP.  VII. 


ALEXANDRIA. 

probable  that  he  alluded  to  this  sepulchral  pillar ;  bearing, 
besides  its  traditionary  name,  the  marks  of  restoration,  and 
the  most  characteristic  features  of  the  purpose  for  which 
it  was  erected. 

A  few  remarks,  with  regard  to  the  rest  of  the  Inscription, 
will  conclude  the  whole  of  our  observations  upon  this 
magnificent  and  interesting  monument. 

The  epithet  at  the  conclusion  of  the  third  line  could 
not  be  ascertained  at  the  time  the  Inscription  was  again 
recognised1 ;  but  there  appeared  to  be  five  characters  wanted. 
These  five  characters  have  been  ingeniously  supplied  by  a 
learned  friend  of  the  author2,  for  they  are  evidently  the  first  five 
letters  of  the  word  cebacton.  The  Prefect's  name,  at  the 
beginning  of  the  fourth  line,  was  supposed3  to  be  Ylo^n'iog ; 
but  the  third  letter  is  found  to  be  c,  and  not  M,  and  it  was 
thus  read  by  Pococke  many  years  before4.  Having  therefore 
noc,  we    may    read   nocTOMOC.      This   name    is   found   in 

Gruter, 


body  ;  the  information  concerning  which,  as  derived  from  the  Antients,  is  not  only 
uncertain,  but  contradictory.  But  Appian  also  mentions  another  distinct  sepulchral 
TE/utvor,  erected  over  the  head  of  Pompey  at  Alexandria  by  Julius  Caesar.  This  was 
ruined  in  the  time  of  Trajan ;  and  it  is  to  the  restoration  of  this  monument,  by  Hadrian, 
which  Dio  Cassius  seems  to  allude,  under  the  words  /j,rij/j,a  avrov. 

(1)  See  the  Paper  read  to  the  Society  of  Antiquaries,  Feb.  3,  1803. 

(2)  The  Rev.  George  Adam  Browne,  M.A.  Fellow  of  Trinity  College,  Cambridge, 
the  intimate  friend  of  the  late  Professor  Poison,  and  of  Dr.  Raine,  late  of  the 
Charter  House.  Mr.  Browne  also  proposed  the  substitution  of  J\o<rrofxo<;  for  Ylofxinjiot 
in  the  fourth  line. 

(3)  See  Paper  mentioned  in  Note  (l). 

(4)  See  Pococke's  copy  of  the  Inscription.  Description  of  the  East,  vol.  I.  p.  8. 
Note  (d).    Lond.  1743. 


ALEXANDRIA. 

<G:uter,  in  several  instances,  written  Postumus*.  It  occurs 
in  an  inscription  discovered  upon  an  edifice  which  contains 
the  famous  Zodiac  at  Dendera  in  Upper  Egypt6,  as  the 
mime  of  a  Praefect  who  lived  under  Augustus.  We  have, 
moreover,  in  the  Dendera  inscription,  a  sort  of  formula 
enabling  us  to  supply  the  last  line,  which  is  entirely  wanted. 
We  there  read  the  words  OlAnoTHiMHTPOnoAE.QX,  wc  The 
People  of  the  Metropolis."  Upon  the  whole,  then,  that  has 
been  before  adduced,  and  with  the  aid  of  the  document 
alluded  to,  it  is  proposed  to  read  the  Inscription  upon 
Pcmpey's  Pillar  in  the  following  manner;  the  Reader  being 
left  to  use  his  own  judgment  as  to  the  introduction  of 
Htdriaris  name,  or  that  of  Diocletian,  in  the  third  line.  We 
have  rather  preferred  the  former,  for  the  reasons  already 
given. 

TONTIMICJUTATONAYTOKPATOPA 
TONinOAIOYXONAAEZANAPEIAC 
AIONAAPIANONTONCEBACTON 
nOCTOMOCEriAPXOCAirYnTOY 

KAIOIAnOTHCMHTPOnOAEDS 


269 


CHAP.  VII. 


POSTUMUS  PREFECT  OF  EGYPT,  AKD  THE  PEOPLE  OF  THE 
METROPOLIS,  {'honour')  THE  MOST  REVERED  EMPEROR, 
THE  PROTECTING  DIVINITY  OF  ALEXANDRIA,  THE  DIVINE 
HADRIAN    AUGUSTUS." 

In 


(5)  See  Gruter.    Inscript.  113.  1. — 172.  10.  &c.  &c.     Amst.  1707. 

(6)  See  Denon,  Hamilton,  &c.  The  Inscription  was  also  copied  by  several  of  our 
orficers  who  came  with  the  Indian  army  to  Egypt.  It  is  there  written  Marcus  Clodius 
Postumus.     Denon  wrote  the  name  ITOCTOYMOC. 


270 


CHAP.  VII. 


ALEXANDRIA. 

In  the  forenoon  of  this  day,  the  author  waited  upon 
General  Menou,  requesting  a  passport,  that  might  enable 
him  to  pass  and  repass  the  outer  gate,  to  and  from  the 
British  camp ;  and  at  the  same  time  made  application  for 
permission  to  copy  the  Inscriptions  upon  the  Rosetta  Tablet, 
which  was  still  carefully  concealed.  One  of  the  Aid-de- 
Camps  conducted  him  into  a  small  tent,  pitched  in  a 
spacious  area,  or  square,  near  the  inner  gates  of  Alexandria, 
where  the  parade  of  the  garrison  was  daily  held.  This 
tent,  small  as  it  was,  had  been  separated  into  two  parts  by 
a  curtain,  behind  which  Menou  had  his  Charem ;,  giving 
audience  in1  the  outer  part,  near  to  the  entrance,  where  there 
was  hardly  room  enough  to  stand  upright.  Having  waited 
some  time,  during  which  women's  voices  were  heard  in 
conversation  behind  the  partition,  the  curtain  was  suddenly 
raised,  and  .Taques  Abd'aUah  made  his  appearance.  A  more 
grotesque  figure  can  hardly  be  conceived.  He  wore  a 
flowered  embroidered  waistcoat,  with  flaps  almost  to  his 
knees,  and  a  coat  covered  with  broad  lace.  Elevating  his 
whiskered  face  and  double  chin,  in  order  to  give  all  imagi- 
nable pomp  and  dignity  to  his  squat  corpulent  figure, 
which  covered  with  finery  much  resembled  that  of  a 
mountebank,  he  demanded,  in  an  imperious  tone  of  voice, 
"  Que  souhaite-t-il,  Monsieur  Clarke?"  Having  explained  the 
cause  of  the  visit,  as  far  as  it  related  to  the  passport,  and 
being  directed  to  apply  for  this  to  Rdne,  General  of  Brigade, 
the  author  ventured  to  introduce  the  subject  of  the  Rosetta 
Stone ;    stating,    that   he   was   about  to    return    to    Lord 

Hutchinson, 


ALEXANDRIA.  2^1 

Hutchinson,  and  wished  to  obey  the  orders  he  had  received  chap.vii. 
from  his  Lordship,  for  copying  the  Inscription.  At  the  very 
mention  of  this  Stone,  Menou  gave  vent  to  his  rage  ;  and, 
ready  to  burst  with  choler,  exclaimed,  "  You  may  tell  your 
Commander-in-chief  he  has  as  much  right  to  make  this 
demand,  as  a  highwayman  has  to  ask  for  my  purse  !  He 
has  a  cannon  in  each  of  my  ears,  and  another  in  my  mouth  ; 
let  him  take  what  pleases  him.  I  have  a  few  embroidered 
saddles,  and  a  tolerable  stock  of  shirts,  perhaps  he  may 
fancy  some  of  these !"  The  author  assured  him  that  he 
could  be  the  bearer  of  no  message  of  this  kind ;  but  what- 
ever he  might  think  proper  to  put  in  writing,  should  be 
carefully  conveyed,  and  as  punctually  delivered.  Having 
left  the  tent,  and  waited  upon  General  Rene  for  the  passport, 
while  this  was  preparing1,  a  note  came  from  Menou  for 
Lord  Hutchinson.  With  this  note  the  author  and  his  com- 
panions set  out  for  the  English  camp  ;  and  arriving  at  head- 
quarters, presented  it  to  his  Lordship,  making  known  at  the 
same  time  all  that  had  transpired  concerning  the  Sarcophagus 
from  the  Mosque  of  St.  Athanasius,  together  with  the  in- 
telligence which  had  been  obtained  with  regard  to  the  other 
antiquities.  To  Menou's  note  his  Lordship  disdained  making 
any  reply  ;  transmitting  only  a  verbal  message,  cautioning 
him  to  beware  of  sending  any  more  messages  or  letters  to 
him,  but  to  obey  the  conditions  proposed  for  the  surrender  of 

Alexandria, 


(l)  See  a  copy  of  the  original,  in  the  Appendix. 


272 


CHAP.  VII. 


ALEXANDRIA 

Alexandria,  upon  pain  of  having  not  only  his  own  baggage, 
but  that  of  all  the  officers  of  the  French  army,  submitted  to  an 
examination.  All  the  antiquities,  without  reservation,  were  to 
be  delivered  to  the  English  ;  and  to  this  demand  was  added  an 
order  for  the  collection  of  specimens  belonging  to  Natural 
History,  and  whatsoever  other  literary  acquisition  had  been 
made  in  Egypt  for  the  French  nation.  His  Lordship  directed 
that  the  most  diligent  inquiry  should  be  made  concerning 
every  thing  of  this  nature;  and  having  given  orders  for  a 
supply  of  provisions  to  accompany  us  upon  our  return,  offered 
the  use  of  his  horses  while  we  remained  in  Alexandria,  and  a 
groom  to  assist  us  in  taking  care  of  them.  After  this  we 
had  an  opportunity  of  witnessing  the  sort  of  fare  which  the 
Commander-in-chief  of  a  British  army,  who  had  so  liberally 
provided  for  others,  allowed  for  his  own  use.  He  gave 
us  a  general  invitation  to  his  table;  adding,  "If  you  have 
appetite  enough  to  dine  with  a  soldier,  you  will  this  day 
have  something  more  than  usually  substantial."  The 
dinner  was  served  in  his  tent,  and  we  sat  down:  it  consisted 
of  the  remaining  half  of  a  cold  pie,  made  by  one  of 
the  privates  the  day  before,  containing  some  lumps  of 
meat  encased  in  a  durable  crust  about  an  inch  thick,  of  the 
coarsest  flour :  a  surprising  contrast  to  the  magnificent 
entertainment  we  had  experienced  with  the  Anglo- Indian 
army  in  the  Isle  of  Rhouda.  Some  of  the  officers  in- 
formed us  that  such  was  his  daily  diet ;  and  that  it  rarely 
differed  from  the  allowance  made  to  the  common  soldiers  of 
the   army.      In   the    evening   we  returned.     It  was  quite 

dark, 


ALEXANDRIA. 


273 


dark,  and  the  gates  were  shut ;  but  we  found  no  difficulty 
ini  obtaining  admission,  by  means  of  our  passport. 

Saturday,  September  the  twelfth.  This  day  the  flesh  of 
horses,  asses,  and  camels,  sold,  in  the  market,  at  a  price 
nearly  equivalent  to  half  a  guinea  of  our  money,  for  a  single 
rottda,  equal  to  about  a  pound  and  a  quarter.  Mr.  Hamilton 
went  with  us  to  the  French  head-quarters,  and  undertook  to 
mention  to  Menou  the  result  of  our  visit  to  Lord  Hutchinson. 
We  remained  near  the  outside  of  the  tent;  and  soon  heard 
the  French  General's  voice,  elevated  as  usual,  and  in  strong- 
terms  of  indignation  remonstrating  against  the  injustice  of 
the  demands  made  upon  him.  The  words  "  Jamais  on  na 
pith  Ic  monde !"  diverted  us  highly,  as  coming  from  a 
leader  of  plunder  and  devastation.  He  threatened  to  publish 
an  account  of  the  transaction  in  all  the  Gazettes  of  Europe ; 
and,  as  Mr.  Hamilton  withdrew,  we  heard  him  vociferate  a 
menace  of  meeting  Lord  Hutchinson  in  single  combat — 
"  Nous  nous  verrons,  de  bien  prcs — de  Men  pres,  je  vous 
assure  /"  However,  Colonel,  now  General,  Turner,  who 
had  arrived  also  in  Alexandria,  with  orders  from  our  Com- 
mander-in-chief respecting  the  surrender  of  the  Antiquities, 
soon  brought  this  matter  to  a  conclusion.  The  different 
forts  were  now  occupied  by  our  army ;  and  the  condition 
of  the  garrison  was  such,  that  Menou  did  not  deem  it 
prudent  to  resist  any  longer:  he  reluctantly  submitted  to 
the  loss  of  his  literary  trophies.  The  Rosetta  Tablet 
was  taken  from  a  warehouse,  covered  with  mats,  where  it 
had   been   deposited    with    Menou's    baggage;    and   it  was 

vol.  in.  2  n  surren- 


CHAP.  VII. 


Surrender  of 
the  Rosetta 
Tablet. 


274 


ALEXANDRIA. 


chap.  vii.  surrendered  to  us,  by  a  French  officer  and  Member  of  the 
Institute,  in  the  streets  of  Alexandria ;  Mr.  Cripps,  Mr. 
Hamilton,  and  the  author,  being  the  only  persons  present, 
to  take  possession  of  it.  The  officer  appointed  to  deliver  it 
recommended  its  speedy  conveyance  to  some  place  of  safety, 
as  he  could  not  be  answerable  for  the  conduct  of  the  French 
soldiers,  if  it  were  suffered  to  remain  exposed  to  their 
indignation.  We  made  this  circumstance  known  to  Lord 
Hutchinson,  who  gave  orders  for  its  immediate  removal;  and 
it  was  given  in  charge  to  General  Turner,  under  whose 
direction  all  the  monuments  of  Egyptian  antiquity,  resigned 
to  us  by  the  articles  of  the  capitulation,  were  afterwards 
conveyed  to  England1. 

Every  thing  now  seemed  to  indicate  the  speedy  evacua- 
tion of  the  garrison  by  the  French2.  The  officers  and 
soldiers  were  actively  employed  in  selling  the  plunder  they 
had  made.  Negro  slaves  of  both  sexes,  watches,  jewels, 
horses,  camels,  sabres,  were  bartered  in  all  parts  of  the  city. 
A  plain  silver  watch  might  be  bought  for  three  or  four 
dollars ;  a  fine  Arabian  horse,  for  about  five  and  twenty. 
A  French  General  sold  two  horses,  of  perfect  beauty,  with 
their  saddles  and  bridles,  to  an  English  clergyman,  chaplain 
in  the  fleet,  for  fifty  dollars.  Several  valuable  camels,  from 
the  great  scarcity  of  every  kind  of  provender,  were  turned 

adrift, 


(1)  See  Hamilton's  ^gyptiaca,  p.  402.    Lond.  I8O9. 

(2)  The  first  division  of  the  French  army  embarked  at  Aboukir  on  the  14th  of 
September. 


ALEXANDRIA. 


275 


adrift,  to  find  owners  without  the  gates  ;  no  purchasers  being     chap,  vii. 

found,  who  would  undertake  the  charge  of  them  within  the 

walls.     A  better  understanding,  however,  began  to  subsist,     intercourse 

between  the 

at  this  time,  between  the  contending  forces.  Some  strag-  Annies. 
glers  from  the  French  army  advanced,  during  the  day- 
time, into  the  neutral  ground  between  the  two  armies,  and 
there  offered  their  Egyptian  sabres,  and  other  articles,  for 
sale  to  the  English :  here  and  there,  even  in  the  British 
camp,  might  be  seen  a  French  officer  joining  in  conviviality 
with  our  troops  ;  drinking  toasts  for  the  health  of  King- 
George,  the  success  of  the  capitulation,  and  a  speedy  deli- 
verance from  the  government  of  Menou.  The  utmost 
harmonv  and  good-humour  prevailed  at  these  meetings: 
and  a  sincere  desire  to  quit  the  country  was  evident  on  the 
part  of  the  French  soldiers  ;  every  one  of  whom  seemed 
to  consider  himself  as  upon  an  equal  footing,  even  with  the 
Generals  of  his  own  army3. 

In  the  course  of  this  dav,  we  visited  the   Members  of    French  insti- 

J  tl.t.V 

the  French  Institute,  at  the  house  where  they  held  their 
sittings  ;  and  found  them  assembled  round  a  long  table, 
inspecting  and  packing  a  number  of  drawings,  plans,  and 

maps. 


tute. 


(3)  A  Creole  trumpeter,  who  had  served  under  Buonaparte  in  his  campaigns  of  Italy 
and  Egypt,  and  pretended  to  have  been  always  about  his  person,  came  one  day,  and 
asked,  when  the  garrison  of  Alexandria  would  sail  for  France  ?  As  we  could  neither 
answer  this  question,  nor  were  disposed  to  pay  any  attention  to  the  account  he  gave  of 
himself,  he  said,  "  If  you  should  mention  the  name  of  LEsprit  to  the  little  Corsican, 
you  will  find  that  I  am  pretty  well  known  to  him  :"  and,  by  way  of  proving  his  im- 
porance,  he  added,  "  Quandj'arriverai  a  Paris,  je  lui  ferai  expliquer  pourquoi  il  me 
lausa  dans  ce  maudit  pays-ci." 


w* 


276 


CHAP.  VII. 


ALEXANDRIA 

maps1.  We  were  very  politely  received,  at  our  entrance,  by 
Monsieur  Le  ■  Pere,  Architect,  Director  of  the  Class  of 
Civil  Engineers  :  and  we  experienced  from  all  of  them  that 
urbanity,  which,  in  despite  of  the  impressions  and  pre- 
judices caused  by  the  consequences  of  hostility,  and  the 
lawless  deeds  of  a  promiscuous  soldiery  during  the  ravages 
of  war,  must  yet  be  considered  as  the  distinguishing  charac- 
teristic 


(1)  The  FRENCH  INSTITUTE  of  Egypt  was  divided  into  four  sections; 
severally  consisting  of  the  Mathematics,  Physics,  Political  Economy,  Literature  and 
the  Fine  Arts.     The  following  persons  were  its  Members. 

(Tfiose  marked  with  an  asterisk  had  left  Egypt  at  the  time  of  our  arrival.) 

MATHEMATICS. 

Malus. 

*  Monge. 
Nouet. 

*  yuesnot. 


*   Dubois  (pert). 
Geoffroy. 
Larrey. 
Savigny. 


*  Andreossy. 

s 
| 

Girard. 

*  Buonaparte. 

Lancret. 

Costaz. 

Le  Pere. 

Fourier,  perpetual  Secre- 

* LeRoy. 

tary  of  the  Institute. 

PHYSICS. 

*  Beauchamp. 

Delisle. 

*  Berthollet. 

Descotils. 

Boudet. 

Desgenettes. 

Chanipy  (pert). 

X 

*  Dolomieu. 

Conte\ 

\ 

Corancey. 

*  Dugua. 

*  Fauvelet-Bourienne. 


Denon. 
Dutertre. 
Le  Pere. 

Norry. 


POLITICAL  ECONOMY. 

Jacotin. 
*  Poussielque. 


LITERATURE  and  ARTS. 

\  *  Parseval. 

Protain. 
\  Don-Raphael. 

Redoute. 


Reynier. 
Tallien. 


Rigo. 
Rjgel. 
Ripaut. 


To  these  Sections  of  the  Institute  were  also  annexed  the  following  persons,  under  the 
several  heads  of 


Librarians. 
Coquebert.  M^ehain. 


Commission  of  Agriculture. 
Champy  (pe"re).  Nectoux. 

Delisle. 

COMMJS- 


ALEXANDRIA. 


277 


tcristic  of  the  French  people,  in  their  conduct  even  towards  chap.  vh. 
their  enemies.  We  assured  them,  that  although  our  business 
ir  Alexandria  related  to  the  literary  acquisitions  made  for  their 
nition  by  their  army  in  Egypt,  it  had  nothing  whatsoever  to 
do  with  the  private  collections  or  journals  of  individuals  ; 
and  therefore  we  hoped  they  would  allow  us  to  compare 
notes  with  them  upon  certain  points  of  observation,  in  which 

we 


COMMISSION  of  ARTS  and  SCIENCES. 


Antiquaries. 

Ripault. 

*  Pourlier. 

Architects. 

Balzac. 

*  Norry. 

Le  Pere. 

Protain. 

Astronomers. 

Nouet. 

M^chain     (fiL 

CJuesnot. 

Botanists. 

Deslisle. 

Nectoux. 

Coquebert. 

Chemists. 

Berthollet. 

Descotils. 

Cbampy  (p 

"•re).         Cbampy  (fils) 

Swgeons. 

Dubois. 

Lacypierre. 

Labate. 

Artist  for  Design. 

Dutertre. 

Geometricians. 

Monge. 

Costaz. 

Fourier. 

Coranccy. 

Engraver. 

Fouquet. 

Civil  Engineers. 

Le  Pere. 

Caristie. 

Girard. 

Favier. 

Faye. 

Dubois. 

Le  Pere  (Gratian).    Devilliers. 

Martin. 

Moline. 

Saint  Gen  is 

Duchanoy. 

Lancret. 

Alibert. 

Fevre. 

Regnault. 

Chabrol. 

Bernard. 

Jollois. 

Potier. 

Raffeneau. 

Viard. 

Arnolet. 

Geographical  Engineers. 
Jacotin.  Bertrc. 

Simonel.  Lecesne. 

Levesque.  Larocbe. 

Joinard.  Faurie. 

Corabeuf. 

Engineers'   Constructors. 
Boucher.  *  Gresle. 

Chaumont. 

Oriental  Literature. 


Marcel. 
*  Joubert. 
Belletete. 

Raige. 
Delaporte 

Literati. 

*  Denon. 

*  Parseval. 

Lerouge. 

Mechanics. 
Conte.  Coutelle. 

Artists. 
Adnea   (pere).  Adnes  (fils). 

Ctfcile  (Mecha-       Couvreur. 

nical  Engineer).  Lenoir   {Mathematical 
Ainie.  Instrument  Maker) . 

Collin. 

Musicians. 
Rigel.  Villoteau. 

Mineralogists. 
*  Dolomieu.  Roziere. 

Cordier.  Dupuy. 

Naturalists. 
Geoffroi.  Savigny. 

Fainters. 
Redoubte,   (Puinter  of  Natural  History). 


Rigo. 
Boudet. 


Apothecaries. 

Roubieres. 
Sculptor. 
Casteix. 


278 


CHAP  VII. 


ALEXANDRIA. 

we  might  be  mutually  interested ;  and  we  further  solicited 
permission  to  consult  the  splendid  map  of  Egypt  which  their 
geographers  had  completed.  This  proposition  was  not  acceded 
to  on  their  part ;  nor,  perhaps,  was  it  reasonable,  at  that 
time,  to  expect  that  our  request  could  be  complied  with. 
They  very  candidly  confessed,  that  it  would  give  them 
pleasure  to  satisfy  our  curiosity  any  where  else ;  but  that, 
under  the  present  circumstances,  they  could  only  consider 
our  inquiry  as  likely  to  lead  to  additional  demands  on  the  part 
of  our  Commander-in-chief;  and  for  this  reason  alone  they 
must  decline  acceding  to  our  request.  We  had,  however,  a 
short  conversation  with  them  upon  the  subject  of  the  Ruins 
of  Sa/is,  which  their  countryman  Savary  had  mentioned 
among  the  desirable  objects  of  discovery  in  Egypt';  although 
Egmont  and  Heyman  had  published  their  notice  of  them 
twenty  years  before  Savary  began  the  account  of  his  travels 
in  the  country2.  These  Ruins  had  altogether  escaped  their 
observation.  They  said  that  their  researches  had  always 
been  restricted  to  the  march  of  their  army,  and  therefore, 
in  Lower  Egypt,  had  been  principally  confined  to  the  western 
side  of  the  Nile;  that  they  had  heard  of  the  ruins  at  S'el- 
hajar,  but  did  not  conceive  them  to  be  so  considerable  as 
we  had  found  them.  Being  asked  whether  any  of  them  had 
seen  the  interior  of  an  Egyptian  sepulchre,  containing  mum- 
mies, before  the  position  of  the  bodies  had  been  disturbed  by 

the 


(1)  See  Savary's  Letters  on  Egypt,  vol.  II.  Lett.  73.    Lond.  1786. 

(2)  Savary's  first  Letter  is  dated  July  24,  1777- 


ALEXANDRIA. 


279 


CHAP.  VII. 


the  Arabs,  they  answered  in  the  negative.  With  this  infor- 
mation we  took  our  leave  of  them,  accompanied  by  one  of 
the  younger  Members  of  the  Institute,  who  kindly  offered  to 
accompany  us  to  the  Catacombs  of  Necropolis,  lying  west- 
ward of  Alexandria.  These  we  were  now  desirous  to 
examine. 

Among  all  the  antiquities   of  this   once  celebrated  city,     cryPt»ot 

*5  J  ^  Necropolis. 

which  after  the  destruction  of  Carthage  ranked  next  to  Rome 
in  magnitude  and  population,  the  Cryptae  of  Necropolis  are 
the  least  known,  and  the  most  wonderful.  They  have  been 
incidentally  but  not  frequently  mentioned,  in  the  various 
descriptions  given  of  Alexandria  in  books  of  modern  travels3; 
but  the  Antients  have  left  us  much  in  the  dark  concerning 
their  history.  Strabo  indeed,  after  giving  an  account  of  a 
navigable  canal  which  extended  from  the  Old  Port  to  the 
Lake  Mareotis,  carries  his  observations  westward,  and 
notices  the  Catacombs,  under  the  name  of  Necropolis4.  In 
the    very  brief  description  which   he  has  given  of   them, 

enough 


(3)  See  the  "  Description  de  I'Egypte"  par  Maillet,  torn.  I.  p.  l6Q.  A  la  Haye, 
1740.  Pococke's  Descr.  of  the  East,  vol.1.  Lond.  1743.  Norden's  Travels,  vol.1, 
p.  17.  Lond.  1756,  &c.  Savary's  Letters  on  Egypt,  vol.  I.  p.  43.  Lond.  1786.  An 
Extract  from  Savary  may  afford  a  specimen  of  the  manner  in  which  these  Catacombs 
have  been  generally  noticed.  This  writer  does  not.  seem  to  have  ever  entered  them. 
"  At  half  a  league's  distance  to  the  southward  of  the  town,  is  the  descent  into  the 
Catacombs,  the  antient  asylum  of  the  dead.  Winding  passages  lead  to  the  subterraneous 
grottoes  where  they  were  deposited." 

(4)  Ef0'  >')  NeKp(')7ro\i<;,  to  rrpodfTTvov  (sic  leg.  Cod.  MSS.  Medic.  Esc.  et  Paris.  Fid. 
Led.  Far.  in  Stralon.  edit.  Oxon.)  tv  §  k^tto'i  re  iroXXol  ical  rcubal  icai  icarayayai, 
rpoc  rac  rapi^e'tcn;  tuv  ve^puv  bctrrfieiai,  Stralon.  Geog.  lib.  xvii.  p.  1128.  ed.  Oxoti. 
1807. 


*MM*»,-.. <v*^ -■•>;-»  ^v.Aff 


280 


CHAP.  VII. 


ALEXANDRIA. 

enough  is  said  to  prove  that  every  characteristic  of  the  most 
antient  cemeteries  of  Oriental  nations  belonged  to  them ; 
for  they  were  suburban,  and  were  situated  in  the  midst  of 
gardens1.  Enough  remains  also  in  the  severe  simplicity  of 
their  structure,  and  in  the  few  Egyptian  symbols  found 
within  them,  to  shew  that  they  are  of  earlier  antiquity  than 
the  foundation  of  Alexandria  by  the  Macedonians,  even  if  we 
had  not  the  most  decisive  evidence  to  prove  that  the  regal 
sepulchres  of  the  Alexandrian  monarchs  were  within  the  city. 
As  repositories  of  the  dead  they  were  consequently  places  of 
worship,  whose  dark  and  subterraneous  caverns  were  aptly 
'  .        suited 


(l)  "  And  he  was  buried  in  his  Sepulchre,  in  the  Garden  of  Uzza,"  (Kings  xxi.  26.) 
In  the  same  chapter,  ver.  18.  it  is  said  of  Manasseh,  that  "  he  slept  with  his  fathers, 
and  was  buried  in  the  garden  of  his  own  house,  in  the  Garden  of  Uzza  :"  that  is  to  say, 
in  the  garden  of  the  sepulchre  of  his  own  house,  or  family  ;  the  cemeteries  of  the 
Jews  exhibiting  always  a  series  of  gardens,  each  of  which  belonged  to  some  particular 
family.  Among  the  Heathens  such  gardens  were  places  of  religious  worship.  Thus  in 
Isaiah,  (c.  Ixv.  3.)  "  A  people  that  provoketh  me  to  anger  continually  to  my  face, 
that  sacrifccth  in  gardens."  An  illustration  is  hereby  suggested  of  a  remarkable 
passage  in  Ezekiel,  (c.  xiii.  19,  20.)   "  And  will  ye  pollute  me  among  my  people  ....  to 

slay  the  souls  that  should  not  die Behold  I  am  against  your  pillows,  wherewith  ye 

there  hunt  the  souls  into  gardens."  The  Garden  to  which  our  Saviour  "  oflimes 
resorted  with  his  Disciples"  at  the  foot  of  the  Mount  of  Olives,  "  over  the  Brook 
Cedron"  (John  xviii.  1,2.)  was  in  all  probability  a  place  for  pious  meditation,  in  the 
midst  of  Tombs;  for  the  antient  Jewish  sepulchres  extend  over  all  the  base  of  the 
mountain  opposite  to  Jerusalem.  Hither  he  retired  to  pray,  the  night  before  his 
crucifixion.  And  when  his  body  was  buried,  "  as  the  manner  of  the  Jews  is  to  bury," 
(John  xix.  40,  41.)  the  sepulchre  wherein  they  laid  him  was  in  "  a  Garden."  The 
same  custom  of  adorning  cemeteries  with  gardens,  and  resorting  to  them  for  meditation 
and  prayer,  still  exists  among  all  the  Eastern  Jews,  who  write  upon  the  tomb  of  a 
deceased  person,  "  Let  his  soul  be  in  the  garden  of  Eden  5"  also  among  the  Moslems 
over  all  the  Turkish  Empire.  It  is  said  also  of  the  Mexicans  (See  Purchas's  Pilgrim, 
p.  804.  Land.  1514.)  "  The  places  where  they  buried  them  were  their  Gardens." 


CATACOMBS  OF  NECROPOLIS. 


281 


suited  to  the  ideas  entertained  of  Hades,  the  invisible  abode  chap.vil 
of  departed  spirits2.  Of  such  a  nature  was  the  Serapeum  of  straptum  of 
Racotis,  described  as  of  much  earlier  antiquity  than  the 
temple  of  the  same  name  founded  by  one  of  the  Ptolemies3. 
Racotis  was  in  ruins  before  the  building  of  Alexandria4; 
and  the  Cryptce  of  Necropolis,  from  their  situation,  can  be 
attributed  only  to  that  antient  city'.  Having  before  shewn 
that  the  worship  of  Serapis  in  Egypt  was  long  anterior  to  the 
introduction  of  an  idol  under  that  name  by  Ptolemy  Soter6,  as 
related  by  Tacitus7,  and  also  mentioned  the  authorities  which 
refer  its  origin  to  the  death  of  the  Patriarch  Joseph8,  it  will 

be 


(2)  K.a\ovfiev  %c  tov  avrov  tovtov  tcai  ^.dpawiv  rov  ditrj  drfkovori.  rrpoc  or  <j»](Tiv 
dro)  TToptvecrdai  rdc  ^i/^ac  rwr  fiiuardrruy,  dlpiara  kal  SiKaidrara.  "  Quem  nos  alio 
nomine  Serapim  vocamus,  ut  qui  est  diSrjs,  sub  aspectum  minime  cadens  :  ad  quem 
Plato  sublimes  ait  evehi  illorum  animas,  qui  quam  optime  justissimeque  vixerunt."  Juli- 
anus  Imp.  Orat.  iv.  p.  136.    Fid.  Jallonski  Panth.  ALgypt.  torn.  I.  p.  Ti"J .    Franco/.  1/50. 

(3)  "  Fuerat  illic  sacellum  Serapidi  atque  Isidi  antiquitus  sacratum."  Tacit.  Hist, 
lib.  iv.  c.  84. 

(4)  "  Nam  Racotis,  quae  postea  nonnisi  suburbium  Alexandria  fuit,  diu  ante  urbem 
hanc  regiam  ab  Alexandra  erectam,  illic  steterat.  Vid.  Jallonski  Pantheon  JEgypti- 
orum,  torn.  I.  p.  231.  Franco/.  175O.  Also  the  authors  by  him  cited.  Pausanias, 
lib.  v.  p.  432.  Strabo,  lib.  xvii.  p.  545.  Plinius,  lib.  v.  c.  10.  Clemens  Alexandrinus, 
Protreptico,  p.  31.     Stephanus  Ethnicographus,  in  voce  'Pa>c«r?/c,  &c.  &c. 

(5)  Jablonski,  &c.  ubi  supra. 

(6)  See  Chap.  V.  p.  193,  Note  (5),  of  this  volume.  In  addition  to  the  evidence 
there  offered  for  the  antiquity  of  the  worship  of  Serapis  in  Egypt,  may  be  also  cited 
the  following  powerful  argument,  as  urged  by  Cuper  in  his  Harpocrates,  p.  83. 
Utrecht,  1687-  "  Anti  advectum  ex  Ponto  Serapin,  alius  in  iEgypto  eodem  nomine 
deus  colebatur.  Pausanias,  lib.  i.  scribit  Athenienses  Serapidis  cultum  a  Ptolemaeo 
accepisse,  et  templum  ejus  iwi^arinraTov  esse  Alexandrinis,  dpyaiorarov  H  iv  Mc/lujhi  : 
unde  absque  dubio  sequitur,  ante  Pl'olem^um  Lagi  F.  si  is,  ut  plerique  tradunt, 
SLnopensem  deum  advehi  curavit,  Sarafin  in  ./Egyfto  cultum  fuisse." 

(7)  Tacit.  Histor.  lib.  iv.  cap.  84. 

(S)  See  Chap.  V.  of  this  volume,  as  above  cited. 

VOL.  III.  2  O 


282 


CHAP.  VII. 


Remarkable 
Symbol. 


ALEXANDRIA. 

be  proper  briefly  to  notice  the  opinion  of  Jablonski,  as  to 
this  part  of  the  Egyptian  mythology;  because  a  symbol 
which  we  discovered,  forming  a  central  and  conspicuous 
ornament  of  the  Catacombs,  may  seem  to  strengthen 
his  opinion,  and  thereby  shew  that  here  was  the  Sera- 
peum  of  Racotis.  He  endeavours  to  prove,  from  various 
authorities,  but  principally  by  a  passage  which  he  has  cited 
from  the  Saturnalia  of  Macrobius1,  that  Serapis  was  a  type 
of  the  infernal  sun,  that  is  to  say,  of  the  sun  during  its  course 
through  the  lower  hemisphere,  or  winter  signs  of  the  Zodiac; 
as  Ammon  was  of  the  supernal,  or  path  of  the  sun  during  the 
summer  months2.  Hence  the  name  of  Hades,  bestowed 
upon  Serapis  by  the  Emperor  Julian3,  and  the  analogy 
between  this  deity  and  the  Pluto  of  the  Greeks4.  According 
to  Macrobius,  the  Egyptians  were  wont  to  represent  the 
sun,   in   their  winged  images   of  that  luminary,   with   two 

colours ; 


(1)  "  Hoc  argumentum  YEgyptii  lucidius  absolvunt,  ipsius  solis  simulacra  pinnata 
fingenteS;  quibus  color  apud  illos  non  unus  est.  Alterum  enim  caerulea  specie,  alteram 
clara  fingunt ;  ex  his  clarum  superum,  et  caeruleum  inferum  vocant.  Inferi  autem 
nomen  Soli  datur,  cum  in  infexiore  hemisphaerio,  id  est  hyematibus  signis,  cursum 
suum  peragit ;  superi,  cum  partem  Zodiaci  ambit  aestivam."  Macrob.  Saturial. 
lib.  i.  c.  19. 

(2)  "  Sol  superus  et  clarus  est  Ammon.  Sol  caeruleus  et  inferus  est,  ut  oihi 
persuadeo,  Serapis."     Jablonsk.  Panth.  AEgypt.  torn.  I.  p.  235.    Franco/.  1750. 

(3)  See  the  observation  of  Julian  upon  Serapis,  as  before  cited.  See  also  Cyill. 
Alexand.  adversus  Julian,  p.  13. 

(4)  "  Scriptores  plerique,  ubi  ad  Serapidem  eorum  deflectit  oratio,  eum  fere  senper 
Plutonem  interpretari  solid  fuerint."  Jablonski,  ubi  supra,  p.  236.  See  also  the 
authors  by  him  cited.  Diodorus,  lib.  i.  p.  22.  Clemens  Alexandr.  in  Protrepdco, 
passim.  Eusebius,  Prceparat.  Evang.  lib.  iii.  c.  11.  p.  113.  Porphyrius  Julianus,  lnp. 
Oral.  4.  p.  136.  Cy rill.  Alexandr.  lib-  \.  in  Julian,  p.  13.  Aristides,  Oratione  in  Stra- 
pim,  passim. 


CATACOMBS  OF  NECROPOLIS. 

colours5;  one  being  white,  as  typical  of  Amman  or  the 
supernal  sun;  the  other  blue,  to  denote  Serapis,  or  the  sun's 
descent  into  Hades  during  winter,  when  it  received  the 
appellation  of  infernal6.  It  is  a  very  curious  circumstance, 
that  the  distinctions  of  colour  mentioned  by  Macrobius 
may  be  noticed  in  all  the  mythological  paintings  of  the 
Tartars,  the  Chinese,  and  the  people  of  Japan,  where  an 
image  of  the  sun  is  introduced  ;  but  with  this  difference, 
that  the  colours,  instead  of  being  white  and  blue,  are  white 
and  red1.  The  inhabitants  of  some  parts  of  India,  as  it  is 
well  known,  who  are  worshippers  of  the  Sun,  revere  the 
invisible  as  well  as  the  visible  luminary ;  the  former  of  which 
answers  to  the  AIAH2  and  AOPATOS  of  the  Egyptians  and 
the  Greeks8.     This  notion  of  Jablonski  concerning  Serapis 

is 


283 


CHAP.  VII. 


(5)  Vid.  Macrob.  Saturnal.  ubi  supra. 

(0)  Hence,  perhaps,  the  very  antient  superstition  of  the  blue  colour  of  flame  at  the 
approach  of  departed  spirits,  coming  from  Hades.  One  of  the  Witches  in  Macbeth 
begins  her  incantation,  "  Blue  spirits  and  white  .'"   &c. 

(7)  The  reader  may  see  such  representations  in  the  engravings  made  from  the 
sacred  Pictures  of  the  Calmuck  tribes.  {Part  I.  of  these  Travels,  p.  244,  second  edit.) 
In  three  of  those  pictures,  this  double  representation  of  the  Sun  is  introduced ;  although 
the  plate  has  not  been  coloured,  and  the  minutiae  of  the  distinction  were  little  attended 
to  by  the  engraver.  In  the  original  drawings,  one  orb  is  red,  and  the  other  white.  The 
author  at  first  supposed  they  were  intended  for  the  Sun  and  Moon. 
(8)  Qpdfco  rdv  ndvriov  virarov  dedv  e/ufxev  id<o, 

Xeifiari  fxey  r    diSt]v,   Aia   S'  e'lapoc  dp\op.kvoio 

'HiXiov  $£  Bcpevg. — 

Die  Deorum  omnium  supremum  esse  Iao, 

Quem  liyeme  orcum  vocant,  ineunte  autem  vere  Jovem, 

.^Estate  porro  Solem. 

"  Jam  bene  intelligitur,  quam  bene  et  recte  auctor  versuum  allatorum  affirmet,  Solent 
ab  iEgyptiis,  tempore  hyberno  vocari  dtinv,  eum,  qui  non  videtur,  quoniam  nempe  lux 

ejus, 


284 


ALEXANDRIA- 


CHAP,  vii.  is  by  him  opposed,  to  an  opinion  of  the  Fathers,  which 
maintained  that  Serapis  was  a  symbol  of  Joseph :  but  even 
admitting  it  to  be  true  in  its  fullest  extent,  it  will  rather 
serve  to  confirm  that  opinion,  if  attention  be  paid  to  the 
titles  which  the  Egyptians  were  accustomed  to  bestow  upon 
their  deified  princes.  The  language  of  the  valuable  Inscrip- 
tion on  the  Rosetta  Tablet  will  set  this  truth  in  a  very  clear 
point  of  view :  we  there  find  the  deceased  sovereign  men- 
tioned as  being1,  "  like  the  great  Vulcan."     He  is  said 

tO    be    EVEN    AS    THE    SUN,    THE     GREAT    KING    OF    THE    UPPER 

and  lower  regions2,  and  his  successor  is  called  Son  of 
the  Sun3.  If  therefore  the  Sun  in  Hades,  according  to  the 
most  antient  mythology  of  Egypt,  was  called  Serapis, 
Joseph  having  descended  thither,  and  being  "  even  as  the 
Sun,"  according  to  a  style  of  deification  which  was  inva- 
riable in  Egypt,  where  the  customs  of  the  country  were 
almost  as  unalterable  as  its  climate,  would  receive  the 
appellation  of  Serapis,  after  the  same  manner  in  which  the 

name 


ejus,  illo  anni  tempore,  sub  terram  demersa  est.  Eundem  Pseudo-Callisthenes 
dixit  doparov  tov  lipuriov,  invisibilem  in  Sinopio.  Eustathius  vero,  eodem  loco 
allatus,  testatur  Serapim  in  Sinopio  Memphi  coli."  Jablonsk.  Panth.  jEgypt.  torn.  I. 
pp.  236,  238.     Franco/.  1750. 

(1)  Ka6aVf|0   6  "H^atorroc   o  [ityas. 

(2)  Kaddrrip  6 ''H\ioc  [Acyas  j3ct(rt\iv<;  to>v  ti  avo  teal  tuv  rt  KCtrot  vupuv.  The 
word  y^wpuv,  in  this  Inscription,  has  been  usually  translated  districts,  with  reference  to 
the  division  of  Egypt  into  upper  and  lower ;  but  this  division  is  of  modern  date ;  and 
the  Sun  would  hardly  be  styled  "  King  of  Upper  and  Lower  Egypt."  The  expression 
seems  to  be  metaphorical,  and  rather  applicable  to  the  antient  notions  concerning  Sol 
Superus  and  Sol  Inferus ;  as  mentioned  by  Macrobius. 

{3)  Xiov  tov  'HXiov. 


CATACOMBS  OF  NECROPOLIS. 

name  of  Vulcan,  father  of  the  Sim\  was,  so  many  ages 
after,  applied  to  Ptolemy,  by  the  priests  of  Egypt. 

We  will  detain  the  Reader  no  longer  with  such  observa- 
tions ;  but  proceed  to  a  survey  of  the  surprising  repositories 
that  have  given  rise  to  them,  and  which  received  among  the 
Antients  the  appropriate  appellation  of  the  "  City  of  the 
Dead."  Nothing  so  marvellous  ever  fell  within  our  obser- 
vation ;  but  in  Upper  Egypt,  perhaps,  works  of  a  similar 
nature  may  have  been  found.  The  Cryptce  of  Jerusalem, 
Tortosa,  Jebilee,  Laodicea,  and  Telmessus3,  are  excavations 
of  the  same  kind,  but  far  less  extensive.  They  enable  us, 
however,  to  trace  the  connection  which  antiently  existed  in 
the  sepulchral  customs  of  all  the  nations  bordering  the 
eastern  coast  of  the  Mediterranean  ;  from  the  shores  of 
Carthage  and  of  Cyrene,  to  Egypt,  to  Palaestine,  to  Phoenicia, 
and  to  Asia  Minor.  An  inclination  common  to  man,  in  every 
period  of  his  history,  but  particularly  in  the  patriarchal  ages, 
of  being  finally  "  gathered  unto  his  fathers,"  may  explain 
the  prodigious  labour  bestowed  in  the  construction  of  these 
primeval  sepulchres.  Wheresoever  the  roving  Phoenicians 
extended  their  colonies,  whether  to  the  remotest  parts  of 
Africa,  or  of  Europe,  even  to  the  most  distant  islands  of 
their  descendants    the    Celtae  in  the    Northern  Ocean,  the 

same 


285 


CHAP.VI. 


Descent  into 
the  Cryptce. 


(4)  See  Note  (l). 

(5)  See  Chap.  XVI.  of  the  former  Section  of  Part  II.  of  these  Travels,  p.  549,  &c. 
also  the  observations  in  Note  (4),  p.  550,  as  to  the  situation  of  such  sepulchres. 


286 


ALEXANDRIA. 


chap,  vii.     same  rigid  and  religious  adherence  to  this  early  practice  may 
yet  be  noticed1. 

The  Alexandrian  guides  to  the  Catacombs  will  not  be 
persuaded  to  enter  them  without  using  the  precaution  of  a 
clue  of  thread,  in  order  to  secure  their  retreat.  We  were 
therefore  provided  with  a  ball  of  twine  to  answer  this 
purpose ;  and  also  with  a  quantity  of  wax  tapers,  to  light 
us  in  our  passage  through  these  dark  chambers.  They  are 
situated  about  half  a  league  along  the  shore,  to  the  westward 
of  the  present  city.  The  whole  coast  exhibits  the  remains 
of  other  sepulchres,  that  have  been  violated,  and  are  now  in 
ruins.  The  name  of  Cleopatra  s  Bath  has  been  given  to  an 
artificial  reservoir,  into  which  the  sea  has  now  access  ;  but 
for  what  reason  it  has  been  so  called,  cannot  be  ascertained  : 
it  is  a  bason  hewn  out  of  the  rock ;  and  if  it  ever  was  intended 
for  a  bath,  it  was,  in  all  probability,  a  place  where  they  washed 
the  bodies  of  the  dead  before  they  were  embalmed.  Shaw 
maintained  that  the  Cryptce  of  Necropolis  were  not  intended 
for  the  reception  of  mummies,  or  embalmed  bodies 2;  in  which 

he 


(1)  Among  the  Wild  Irish,  every  avocation  yields  to  the  paramount  duty  of  conveying 
a  corpse  to  its  destination,  whatsoever  may  be  the  distance  of  the  place  designed  for 
its  interment.  When  the  bearers  arrive  with  a  coffin,  which,  in  order  to  fulfil  the 
wishes  of  the  deceased,  is  to  be  carried  to  some  distant  part  of  the  country,  they  deposit 
it  in  the  middle  of  the  first  village  or  town  at  which  they  rest,  whence  it  is  immediately 
forwarded  by  others  who  become  its  voluntary  supporters. 

(2)  "  The  Cryptce,  &c.  were  not  intended  for  the  reception  of  mummies  or  embalmed 
bodies."     Shaw's  Travels,  p.  293.  Lond.  1757- 


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&  '/<  j "'^/^; ^  ^-M^A^muA  s/rs  r  '/Y/vvy,'//^//,', 


Scale  of '£ '//////.r//  JTuv&r. 

Jbmi 


S,,/i  Jfc>,  .<:/■„■/<,! 


mm 

m 


: 


CATACOMBS  OF  NECROPOLIS. 

he  is  decidedly  contradicted  by  the  text  of  Strabo5.  Perhaps 
he  was  one  of  those  who  had  been  induced  to  adopt 
an  erroneous  opinion  that  mummies  were  placed  upright 
upon  their  feet  in  Egyptian  sepulchres,  and  therefore  was 
at  a  loss  to  reconcile  the  horizontal  position  of  the  Theccs 
with  his  preconceived  notions.  We  shall  presently  have 
very  satisfactory  evidence  as  to  the  manner  in  which  em- 
balmed bodies  were  laid,  when  deposited  within  these  tombs 
by  the  inhabitants  of  Egypt,  before  the  foundation  of  Alex- 
andria. The  original  entrance  to  them  is  now  closed,  and 
it  is  externally  concealed  from  observation.  The  only  place 
whereby  admittance  to  the  interior  is  practicable,  may  be 
found  facing  the  sea,  near  an  angle  towards  the  north  : 
it  is  a  small  aperture,  made  through  the  soft  and  sandy 
rock,  either  by  burrowing  animals,  or  by  men  for  the 
purpose  of  ransacking  the  cemetery.  This  aperture  is  barely 
large  enough  to  admit  a  person  upon  his  hands  and  knees4. 
Here  it  is  not  unusual  to  encounter  jackals,  escaping  from 
the  interior,  when  alarmed  by  any  person  approaching : 
on  this  account  the  guides  recommend  the  practice  of 
discharging  a  gun,  or  pistol,  to  prevent  any  sally  of  this 
kind.  Having  passed  this  aperture  with  lighted  tapers,  we 
arrived,  by  a  gradual  descent,  in  a  square  chamber,  almost 
filled  with  earth :  to  the  right  and  left  of  this  are  smaller 
apartments,   chiseled  in  the  rock  :    each  of   these  contains 

on 


287 


CHAP.  VII. 


(3)  Kai  Karayuyal,  7rpog  rac  rapi^e'ias   tuv  veKpuv  CTrtTtjSeiai.     Strahon.  Geogr. 
lib.  xvii.  p.  1128.     Oxon.  1807. 

(4)  See  the  aperture  marked  A,  in  the  Plan  of  the  Catacombs. 


-&5&&S       ^^3^^Z^^£S$^ 


290 


CHAP.  VII. 


CATACOMBS  OF  NECROPOLIS. 

excessive.      The   cryptce   upon  the  south-west  side    corre- 
sponded with  those  which  we  have  described  towards  the 
north-east.     In  the  middle  between  the  two,   a  long  range 
of  chambers  extended  from    the  central  and  circular  shrine, 
towards  the   north-west ;  and  in  this  direction  appears  to 
have  been  the  principal  and  original  entrance.     Proceeding 
towards  it,  we  came  to   a  large  room  in   the  middle  of  the 
fabric,     between    the    supposed    Serapeum   and   the   main 
outlet,  or  portal,  towards  the  sea.     Here  the  workmanship 
was  very  elaborate  ;  and  to  the  right  and  left  were  chambers, 
with  receptacles  ranged  parallel  to  each  other.     Farther  on, 
in  the  same  direction,  is  a  passage  with  galleries  and  spacious 
apartments  on  either  side;  perhaps  the  KATAHirAi  mentioned 
by    Strabo   for    embalming    the    dead;    or    the    chambers 
belonging  to  the  priests,    who  constantly  officiated  in   the 
Serapeum.     In  the  front  is  a  kind  of  vestibulum,  or  porch  ; 
but    it   is    exceedingly   difficult    to    ascertain   precisely   the 
nature  of  the  excavation  towards  the  main  entrance,  from  the 
manner  in  which  it  is  now  choked   with  earth  and  rubbish. 
If  this   part   were  laid  open,  it  is  possible  that  something 
further  would  be  known  as  to  the  design  of  the  undertaking; 
and,  at  all  events,  one  of  the  most  curious  of  the  antiquities 
of  Egypt   would   then   be  exposed   to   the  investigation   it 
merits.     Having  passed  about  six  hours  in  exploring,  to  the 
best  of  our  ability,  these  gloomy  mansions,  we  regained,  by 
means  of  our  clue,  the  aperture   by  which  we  had  entered, 
and  quitted  them  for  ever. 

We  have  now  concluded  almost  all  that  relates  to  our 
residence  in  Alexandria,  and  to  our  observations  in  Egypt. 

A  journey 


ALEXANDRIA. 


291 


A  journey  to  the   Oasis  would  have  been  a  desirable  com-     chap,  vh. 
pletion  of  the  African  part  of  our  travels;  but  our  friend  Mr. 
Hammer,  in  whose  company  we  hoped  to  have  made   it, 
had  left  the  country  ;  and  neither  our  health  nor  the  dispo- 
sition of  the    Arabs   were  favourable    to   the  undertaking. 
We   forbear    from    noticing   many   interesting    objects    of 
curiosity  in  Alexandria,  particularly  its   prodigious  cisterns, 
which  are  coeval  with  the  city,  because  they  have  so  often 
been  described.     The  difficulty  of  "  knowing  when  to  have 
done,"    is    perhaps    never    more    sensibly  felt,  than    in    a 
territory  so  fertile  of  resources  as  that  we  are  now  leaving. 
The  time   is  perhaps  not  distant,  when  Alexandria  alone,  a 
city  once  so  vain  of  its  great  reputation  and  the  rank  it  held 
among  the  Pagan   states>   shall  again  become   the   resort,  if 
not  the  resting-place,  of  learned  men,  who  will  dedicate 
their  time  and   their  talents  to  a  better  investigation  of  its 
interesting  antiquities1.     So  little  are  we  acquainted  with  its 
valuable  remains,  that  not  a  single  excavation  for  purposes 
of  discovery   has  yet  been  begun ;    nor  is  there  any  thing 
published  with   regard  to  its  modern   history,  excepting  the 
observations  that  have  resulted  from  the  hasty  survey  made 
of  its   forlorn  and  desolated    havens,    by   a  few  travellers 
whose  transitory  visits  ended  almost  with  the  days  of  their 
arrival2.       Scarcely  had   we    felt   the  importance   of  more 

accurate 


(1)  A  local  work  of  this  kind,  restricted  entirely  to  the  Antiquities  of  Alexandria, 
might  complete  one  of  the  most  splendid  and  valuable  publications  which  have  yet  been 
added   to  the  archives  of  taste  and  of  literature. 

(2)  A  very  curious  instance  is  afforded  by  Bruce.,  who  wrote  an  account  of  Alex- 
andria, and,  literally,  did  not  spend  one  entire  day  in  the  city.     He  was  at  sea  on  the 

morning 


29ci 


CHAP.  VII. 


ALEXANDRIA. 

accurate  and  careful  inquiry,  than,  like  our  predecessors, 
we  also  prepared  for  our  departure.  A  long  track  lay 
before  us ;  and  in  order  to  do  something  everywhere,  it  was 
necessary  to  rest  nowhere.  A  few  days  before  the  French 
garrison  was  allowed  to  march  out  with  the  honours  of 
war,  we  set  out  upon  a  visit  to  the  Capudan  Pasha,  who 
was  encamped,  with  the  Turkish  troops,  in  the  rear  of  the 
British  army.  He  had  promised  us  a  passage,  on  board  a 
Turkish  frigate,  to  any  part  of  the  Archipelago ;  and  we 
hastened  to  receive  a  letter  from  him  to  the  Captain,  pre- 
viously to  the  vessel's  sailing  for  Constantinople.  As  soon 
as  we  reached  the  Pasha's  tent,  he  asked  after  the  author's 
brother,  Captain  Clarke,  and  desired  to  see  him.  Being  told 
that  he  had  sailed  with  a  part  of  the  French  army  to 
Marseilles,  he  solicited  that  we  would  oblige  him  by 
conveying  a  verbal  message  to  Sir  Richard  Bickerton,  then 
in  the  old  port  of  Alexandria.  This  message  contained 
nothing  less  than  a  request  that  the  Turkish  fleet  might 
have  permission  to  enter  that  port  before  the  surrender  of 
the  city  to  the  English  army.  We  had  consequently  to 
return  back  to  Alexandria,  and  give  up  our  own  business  for 
the  present. 

Arriving  on  board  Sir  Richard's  ship,  we  delivered  our 
message,  and  were  invited  into  his  cabin  to  dinner  ;  but 
being  desirous  of  carrying  back  his  answer  that  evening, 
we    declined    his    kind    offer.       He   had    before   positively 

refused 


morning  of  the  twentieth  of  June  17&8.,  previously  to  his  landing  at  Alexandria  ;  (Sec 
Bruce's  Travels,  vol.  I.  p.  7 .  Edin.  1790.)  and  in  the  afternoon  he  left  that  city  for 
Rosetta. 


ALEXANDRIA. 


293 


refused    the    same  request    from    the    Pasha :    its    renewal    chap,  vii. 
was   therefore  troublesome,   and   even  impertinent;    for   it    conduct  of 

the  Capudan 

was  well  known  to  Sir  Richard,  and  to  Lord  Keith,  that  Pasha- 
it  had  no  other  design  for  its  basis  than  the  payment  of  the 
Turkish  Galeongies  by  the  plunder  of  the  city.  The  Capudan 
Pasha  was  a  person  upon  whom  no  reliance  could  be  placed, 
although  he  had  not  then  manifested  all  the  atrocity  of  his 
character  by  the  murder  of  the  Beys ' :  however,  he  received 

us  » 


(l)  This  happened  soon  after  our  departure.  The  circumstances  are  thus  detailed 
by  Colonel  Squire,  who  was  an  eye-witness  of  the  transaction,  in  a  Litter  to  his 
Brother,  the  Rev.  E.  Squire,  dated  Alexandria,  October  31,  1801.  None  of  the  real 
or  supposed  massacres  of  Buonaparte  can  be  said  to  have  equalled  this  in  treachery  or 
atrocity. 

"  We  are  now  engaged  in  a  sort  of  warfare  with  the  Turks.  Before  this  arrives, 
you  will  have  heard  the  cause  :  but  as  you  may  wish  to  have  an  accurate  account  of 
this  horrible  affair,  I  shall  detail  to  you  the  principal  circumstances.  The  Capudan 
Pasha,  whose  encampment  was  in  the  rear  of  the  English,  wrote  to  some  of  the  Beys 
at  Cairo,  requesting  them  to  honour  him  with  a  visit.  They  accepted  hi-  invitation, 
although  they  had  been  frequently  admonished  by  Sir  J.  {now  Lord)  Hutchinson,  not 
to  engage  in  too  great  an  intimacy  with  the  Turk';.  Tliey  were  escorted  fiom  Rosetta 
to  the  camp  off  Alexandria  by  an  English  guard,  and  they  remained  with  the  Pasha 
under  our  immediate  protection.  Two  days  previous  to  their  intended  reUrn  :o  Cairo, 
the  Pasha  proposed  an  excursion  to  Alexandria.  During  their  visit,  the  Turk  had 
loaded  them  with  every  pretended  proof  of  civility  and  kindness.  The  ver/ day  on 
which  this  dastardly  assassin  perpetrated  his  black  design,  he  swore  by  h:s  heard,  in 
presence  of  the  Beys  who  were  breakfasting  at  his  table,  and  by  the  holy  Koran  which 
was  before  him,  that  he  was  their  firm  friend  and  supporter.  When  the  eir.erainment 
was  nearly  concluded,  an  attendant  came  into  the  Pasha's  tent,  to  inform  his  Highness 
that  a  sufficient  number  of  horses  and  trappings  could  not  be  procured  for  the  whole 
of  the  retinue.  The  Pasha,  hearing  this,  pretended  to  be  highly  incensed  at  the  mes- 
senger— "  However,"  said  he,  "  Gentlemen,  we  will  not  be  disappointed  in  our  excursion  ; 
my  boats  are  in  the  lake,  close  to  the  camp,  and  we  may  proceed  to  Alexandria  by 
water,  where  your  'Mamalukes,  and  my  attendants,  may  meet  us  in  the  city."  The 
cunning  of  this  is  evident':  he  separates  the  Beys  from  their  body-guard,  that  there 
may  be  no  prospect  of  an  effectual  resistance.  The  poor  unsuspecting  Beys  embarked 
ivith  the  Pasha,  and,  attended  by  four  or  five  boats,  steered  towards  the  inundation. 

Scarcely 


294 


CHAP.  VII. 


ALEXANDRIA. 

us  with  great  politeness,  but  returned  this  brief  and  pithy 
answer;  that  "  the  first  Turkish  ship  which  presumed  to  enter, 

before 

Scarcely  had  they  advanced  a  quarter  of  a  mile  from  the  shore,  when  a  boat  arrived, 
with  a  messenger  who  pretended  to  have  a  particular  despatch  for  the  Pasha  from  Con- 
stantinople. The  Turk,  immediately  opening  the  letter,  apologized  to  the  Beys , 
saying  that  he  was  obliged  to  answer  the  despatch,  but  that  he  would  afterwards 
follow  them  to  Alexandria.  In  this  manner  he  left  the  Beys,  and  returned  in  the 
small  boat  to  the  camp ;  by  this  artifice  avoiding  the  exposure  of  his  own  person  in 
the  scuffle  that  was  to  ensue.  Shortly  after  his  departure,  the  boats  alter  their  course, 
and  steer  for  Aboukir  Bay,  with  an  intention  of  putting  the  Beys  on  board  the  Sultan 
Selim,  there  at  anchorage.  The  Beys  now  perceived  the  whole  design  of  this  dark 
plot.  They  first  remonstrated  ;  then  resisted  ;  and,  exclaiming  they  were  betrayed,  a 
discharge  of  musquetry  was  poured  upon  them  from  two  or  three  of  the  boats.  Endea- 
vouring to  defend  themselves,  they  were  attacked  by  the  crew  of  the  Pasha's  boat  with 
swords.  Notwithstanding  all  this,  they  fought  manfully  with  their  poignards.  Osman 
Bey  Tombourgee,  successor  to  Mourad  Bey,  received  seventeen  wounds.  The 
event  of  this  affair  was,  that  of  seven  Beys,  and  a  Cashef,  or  Prime  Minister,  two  were 
killed  with  the  Cashef,  one  was  most  cruelly  wounded,  and  two  were  drowned.  Two 
only  remain,  who  were  made  prisoners  by  the  hired  assassins  of  the  Pasha.  The  whole 
of  this  transaction  being  reported  to  Sir  J.  {now  Lord)  Hutchinson,  he  immediately 
waited  upon  the  Pasha  at  the  head  of  his  troops,  and,  after  calling  him,  to  his  face,  liar, 
coward,  villain,  assassin,  and  using  every  menace  and  other  opprobrious  expression 
until  the  mean  traitor  burst  into  tears,  he  demanded  the  bodies  of  the  Beys ;  of  those 
who  were  dead,  as  well  as  of  the  living.  Thus  intimidated  by  the  spirited  behaviour 
of  the  English  General,  the  Pasha  delivered  up  the  three  dead  bodies,  together  with  the 
persons  of  the  living.  The  three  bodies  were  interred  with  military  honours  within  the 
city.  Thus  the  English  have  taken  a  very  decided  part  in  favour  of  the  Mamalukes, 
and  God  knows  what  will  be  the  event.  We  are  in  complete  possession  of  Alexandria  : 
no  armed  Turk  is  permitted  to  enter  the  town.  The  same  sort  of  scene  has  been 
attempted  at  Cairo.  The  Vizier  pretended  to  invite  the  Beys,  and  to  present  them 
with  pelisses  :  they  have  all  been  seized,  although  I  have  not  yet  heard  that  any  violence 
has  been  offered  to  their  persons.  Sir  J.  Hutchinson  has  threatened,  it  is  said,  to  march 
an  army  against  the  Vizier,  if  he  do  not  immediately  release  the  Beys  from  their 
confinement.  Whatever  may  have  been  the  policy  of  England,  our  General  has 
conducted  himself  with  honour  and  propriety.  He  could  not  have  remained 
an  inactive  spectator  of  such  base  transactions.  The  Beys  were  under  his  immediate 
protection  ;  therefore,  by  the  common  laws  of  hospitality,  he  was  bound  to  declare 
himself  their  guardian.  His  own  honour,  and  that  of  his  country,  were  pledged  for  their 
safety.     I  saw  this  infamous  transaction  from  our  camp.     I  was  witness  to  the 

firincr 


ALEXANDRIA. 

before  the  city  was  surrendered,  would  instantly  be  sunk."  It 
was  towards  sun-set  when  the  author  reached  once  more  the 
magnificent  Turkish  pavilion  of  audience,  stationed  on  the 
borders  of  the  Lake  of  Aboukir,  near  to  the  place  where  the 
sluices  were  cut  through  the  Canal  of  Alexandria,  for  inun- 
dating the  old  bed  of  the  Lake  Mareotis.  The  Pasha  was  out  on 
horseback  ;  and  the  officers  of  the  pavilion,  drawn  up  in  two 
lines,  from  the  entrance  of  the  tent  to  the  rich  cushions  placed 
for  the  Pasha  at  the  upper  extremity,  were  amusing  them- 
selves with  the  tricks  of  a  fool  kept  by  the  Pasha,  who  was 
mimicking  the  state  ceremonies  of  his  master  when  giving 
audience  ;  consequently,  one  of  his  frolics  was  to  receive  the 
author  as  if  the  Pasha  had  been  present.  This  unusual  face- 
tiousness  on  the  part  of  the  Turks  was  soon  put  to  flight  by 
the  arrival  of  the  great  man  himself,  with  his  Interpreter ; 
who  no  sooner  heard  the  answer  to  his  message,  than,  acting 
with  much  less  dignity  than  his  buffoon,  he  spat  on  the 
ground1,  stamped,  and,  abruptly  quitting  the  tent,  hurried 
on  board  a  covered  boat  upon  the  lake,  in  which  he  was 
accustomed  to  pass  the  night,  and  made  his  appearance  no 
more  on  that  evening.    All  hopes  of  a  passage  on  board  the 

frigate 


2.95 


CHAP.  VII. 


firing  of  the  musquetry ;  but  not  suspecting  what  was  passing,  I  did  not  take  particular 
notice  of  the  circumstance."     Colonel  Squire  s  MS.  Correspondence. 

(l)  The  malediction  of  the  Turks,  as  of  other  Oriental  nations,  is  frequently  ex- 
pressed in  no  other  way  than  by  spitting  on  the  ground,  of  which  an  instance  will  be 
related  in  the  next  Chapter.  May  not  this  explain  the  reason  why  our  Saviour,  (who 
taught  to  "  bless,  and  curse  not,"  and  who,  in  the  annihilation  of  Heathen  superstitions, 
frequently  made  the  outward  sign  subservient  to  opposite  purposes  of  grace  and 
benevolence)  when  he  healed  the  blind  and  the  deaf,  is  said  to  have  "  spat  on  the 
ground."  See  John  ix.  6.  Mark  vii.  33.  and  viii.  23.  See  also  a  Note  in  Chap.  IX. 
Part  I.  of  these  Travels,  where  allusion  is  made  to  this  custom,  as  practised  at  a 
Russian  Christening. 


» 


296 


CHAP.  VII. 


ALEXANDRIA. 

frigate  seemed  therefore  for  a  moment  at  an  end.  But 
Isaac  Bey,  the  Capudan  Pasha's  interpreter  and  secretary, 
conducted  the  author  to  his  own  tent,  and,  pleading  a  sudden 
indisposition  on  the  part  of  his  master,  promised  to  accom- 
modate matters ;  begging,  at  the  same  time,  that  his  behaviour 
might  not  be  noticed  at  head- quarters,  and  desiring  that  we 
would  come  again  upon  the  sixteenth. 

A  curious  adventure  befel  us  upon  our  return  for  the 
second  time  this  evening,  Monday,  September  the  fourteenth, 
into  Alexandria.  The  English  sentinels  had  advanced  from 
their  former  stations,  close  to  the  gates  of  the  garrison,  the 
first  division  of  the  French  army  having  this  day  embarked  at 
Aboukir.  The  ivord  for  the  night,  as  given  by  the  French 
General  for  passing  the  gates,  was  "  Qitoyen."  As  the  author 
rode  up  to  the  Rosetta  Gate,  hearing  a  distant  challenge 
somewhat  indistinctly,  and  supposing  he  had  passed  all  the 
English  sentinels,  he  gave  the  French  word  as  he  had  been 
instructed  to  do.  Presently  drawing  nearer,  he  was  able  to 
discern  a  soldier  levelling  his  musket  at  his  breast,  exclaiming 
at  the  same  time,  with  a  broad  Scotch  dialect,  "  Whds  that 
says  Citoycn  f — gee  the  richt  word,  or  you  re  a  deed  inonT — 
Had  this  happened  during  the  negotiation  for  the  surrender 
of  the  city,  the  honest  Highlander  would  not  perhaps  have 
acted  with  so  much  forbearance;  but  the  French  and  the 
English  sentinels  were  then  standing  close  to  each  other, 
and  it  was  probably  nothing  more  than  a  vaunt  of  his 
patriotism  in  the  presence  of  his  enemy.  Some  difficulty 
too  occurred  at  the  inner  gates,  which  had  never  before 
happened ;  the  sentinels  there  refusing  to  lower  the  draw- 
bridge without  a  written  order  from  Menou.     We  offered 

to 


ALEXANDRIA. 

to  shew  our  passport,  signed  by  General  Tcnc,  but  must  have 
passed  the  night  upon  the  sands,  if  one  of  our  party  had  not 
resorted  to  a  stratagem,  and  pretended  being  the  bearer  of 
despatches  to  the  French  Commander-in-chief.  We  were 
then  allowed  to  enter ;  and  being  conducted  by  a  sentinel 
to  head-quarters,  were  permitted,  after  explaining  what  had 
happened,  to  return  to  our  lodgings. 

The  fifteenth  was  passed  chiefly  in  taking  leave  of  our 
friends,  and  in  preparations  for  our  voyage  in  Greece.  We 
obtained  permission,  through  the  kindness  of  Signor  Fontossi, 
from  whom  we  received  many  civilities,  to  trace  with  a 
pencil  a  beautiful  plan  of  the  Catacombs  of  Necropolis, 
which  had  been  finished  by  one  of  the  chief  engineers 
belonging  to  the  French  Institute'.  A  poor  Negro  girl,  who 
had  been  sold  as  a  slave2  to  some  Frenchman,  endeavoured 
this  day  to  throw  herself  from  a  very  high  window ;  but 
being  alarmed  in  the  attempt,  by  the  depth  below  her, 
held  by  her  hands,  and  remained  suspended  in  that  situation 
until  her  cries  brought  some  persons  to  her  assistance. 


297 


C'rAP.  VII. 


(1)  It  is  the  same  from  which  the  Rev.  G.  Wilkins  completed  the  drawing  of 
those  Catacombs  that  has  been  engraved  tor  this  woik. 

(2)  The  officers  of  the  French  army  purchased  a  number  of  these  slaves.  The 
Negro  women  were  particularly  in  request  among  them,  and  many  were  conveyed  to 
France.  The  cause  of  this  singular  taste  has  been  explained  by  one  of  their  own 
Savuns,  in  the  Appendix  to  Peltier's  Edition  of  Denon's  Travels. 


VOL.  III. 


2  Q 


CHAP. 


CHAP.  VIII. 


CHAP.  VIII. 


ALEXANDRIA   TO    COS. 

Preparations  for  leaving  Egypt — Journey  to  Aboukir — Cities  of  Nico- 
polis,  Taposiris  Parva,  and  Canopus — Uncertainty  of  their  topo- 
graphy— Thohis — Changes  which  have  taken  place  upon  the  coast— 
Heraclium — Aboukir  Bay — 7 urkish  Frigate — Persons  composing 
her  Creiv — Discipline  at  Sea — Bay  ofFiniva — Meteoric  Phenomena 
— Eastern  coast  of  Rhodes — Lindus — Southern  shores  of  Asia 
Minor — Bay  of  Marmora — Rhodes — Cos — Town  of  Stanchio — 
Situation  of  the  French  Consul — Antient  sculpture — Inscriptions — 
Asclepi^um — Votive  offerings — Singular  article  of  the  Mahometan 
Law — Population,  commerce,  and  produce  of  Cos. 

In  the  morning  of  September  the  sixteenth,  we  left  Alex- 
andria ;  taking  back  our  horses,  &c.  to  the  British  camp. 
A  Chiaotix,  or  constable  of  the  Turkish  army,  rode  with  us 
from  the  gates.  This  man  expressed  great  indignation  that 
the  French  were  permitted  to  capitulate  for  the  surrender  of 

the 


ALEXANDRIA  TO  COS 

the  place :  he  said  it  was  very  evident  that  the  Djoiurs 
(Infidels)  were  all  acting  in  concert  with  each  other,  and  that 
their  apparent  enmity  was  a  mere  device  to  deceive  the 
Turks.  Being  asked  what  the  Turks  would  have  done,  if 
the  whole  management  had  been  left  to  them,  he  answered, 
"  We  should  have  cut  off  all  their  heads,  to  be  conveyed  to  the 
Grand  Signior ;  or  have  stripped  them  naked,  and  turned 
them  into  the  Desert"  In  our  way  through  the  British 
camp,  we  called  upon  Lord  Hutchinson,  and  endeavoured 
to  express  our  gratitude  for  the  unceasing  patronage  be- 
stowed by  him,  from  the  moment  of  our  first  arrival  in 
Egypt,  in  the  midst  of  his  other  important  avocations ;  and  we 
hope  that  this  now  disinterested  memorial  may  shew  that 
his  kindness  has  not  been  forgotten.  We  then  visited  a  few 
other  friends,  who  were  rejoicing  in  the  prospect  of  a  speedy 
termination  to  one  of  the  severest  campaigns  which  British 
soldiers  are  likely  to  encounter — a  termination,  too,  that 
covered  them  with  glory.  The  number  of  the  enemy 
expelled  by  our  army  from  Egypt,  after  all  the  losses  he  had 
sustained,  was  greater  than  the  aggregate  of  the  English 
combined  forces  when  they  were  first  landed  at  Aboukir1. 
It  was  a  contest  against  veteran  troops,  under  every  circum- 
stance of  privation ;  a  species  of  warfare  to  which  our 
soldiers  were  unaccustomed ;   carried  on  against  men,  who 

were 


(1)  "  When  we  landed,  the  effective  force  of  our  army  did  not  exceed  15,000  men. 
The  French,  an  enemy  well  established  in  a  country  full  of  resources,  embarked  from 
Cairo  13,000;  from  Alexandria  (miralnle  dictu !)  10,000.  We  must  perhaps  deduct 
5000,  for  the  civil  tribe  and  the  merchants,  who  followed  the  army  :  there  will  then 
remain  18,000  for  their  effective  force."  Colonel  Squire 's  MS.  Correspondence.  Letter 
dated  Alexandria,  Oct.  5,  1801. 


300 


CHAP.  VIII. 


Journey  to 
Aboukir. 


ALEXANDRIA  TO  COS. 

were  in  full  possession  of  the  territory,  were  inured  to 
the  unhealthiness  of  the  climate,  and  had  all  the  advantages 
of  position.  Succeeding  generations  may  indeed  exult  in 
the  triumph  thus  obtained  for  our  country;  for,  so  long  as 
the  annals  of  our  Empire  shall  remain,  it  shall  be  said,  that 
"  lance  to  lance,  and  horse  to  horse,"  the  legions  of  France, 
who  had  boasted  themselves  to  be  invincible,  fled,  or  fell, 
before  the  youth  of  Britain. 

From  the  British,  we  went  to  the  Turkish  camp ;  and 
again  had  an  audience  of  the  Capudan  Pasha.  He  had  reco- 
vered his  composure  ;  and  he  gave  us  three  letters  :  one  to 
the  Captain  of  his  own  ship,  the  Sultan  Selim;  a  second  to 
the  Captain  of  the  frigate  in  which  we  were  to  sail;  and  a 
third  to  the  Governor  of  Rhodes,  containing,  as  he  said,  an 
order  for  boats  to  take  us  either  to  Stanchio,  or  to  Scio. 
Thus  provided,  we  continued  our  journey  to  Aboukir,  along 
the  sandy  neck  of  land  which  stretches,  in  the  shape  of  a 
ribbon,  from  the  place  where  our  army  landed,  entirely  to 
Alexandria;  having  the  Lake  of  Aboukir  upon  our  right, 
and  the  sea  upon  our  left.  The  whole  of  this  tract  is  a 
desert,  interspersed  here  and  there  with  a  few  plantations 
of  palm-trees.  The  dates  hung  from  these  trees  in  such 
large  and  tempting  clusters,  although  not  quite  ripe,  that  we 
climbed  to  the  tops  of  some  of  them,  and  carried  away  with 
us  large  branches',  with  their  fruit.  In  this  manner  dates 
are  sometimes  sent,  with  the  branches,  as  presents  to  Con- 
stantinople.   A  ripe  Egyptian  date,  although  a  delicious  fruit, 

is 


(1)  The  leaves  of  these  trees,  when  grown  to  a  size  for  bearing  fruit,  are  six  or  eight 
feet  long ;  and  may  be  termed  branches,  for  the  trees  have  no  other. 


ALEXANDRIA  TO  COS. 


301 


is  never  refreshing  to  the  palate.  It  suits  the  Turks,  who 
are  fond  of  sweetmeats  of  all  kinds ;  and  its  flavour  is  not 
unlike  that  of  the  conserved  green  citron  which  is  brought 
from  Madeira.  The  largest  plantation  occurred  about  half- 
way between  Alexandria  and  Aboukir,  whence  our  army 
marched  to  attack  the  French  on  the  thirteenth  of  March : 
the  trees  here  were  very  lofty,  and,  from  the  singular 
formation  of  their  bark,  we  found  it  as  easy  to  ascend 
to  the  tops  of  these  trees  as  to  climb  the  steps  of  a  ladder. 
Wherever  the  date-tree  is  found  in  these  dreary  deserts,  it  not 
only  presents  a  supply  of  salutary  food,  for  men  and  camels2, 
but  Nature  has  so  wonderfully  contrived  the  plant,  that  its 
first  offering  is  accessible  to  man  alone ;  and  the  mere  cir- 
cumstance of  its  presence,  in  all  seasons  of  the  year,  is 
a  never-failing  indication  of  fresh  water  near  its  roots. 
Botanists  describe  the  trunk  of  the  date-tree  as  full  of  rugged 
knots3;  but  the  fact  is,  that  it  is  full  of  cavities,  the  vestiges 
of  its  decayed  leaves,  which  have  within  them  an  horizontal 
surface,  flat  and  even,  exactly  adapted  to  the  reception  of 
the  human  feet  and  hands ;  and  it  is  impossible  to  view 
them  without  believing  that  he,  who  in  the  4  beginning 
fashioned  "  every  tree,  in  the  which  is  the  fruit  of  a 
tree  yielding  seed"  as  "  meat  for  man,"  has  here  mani- 
fested one  among  the  innumerable  proofs  of  his  bene- 
ficent design.  The  extensive  importance  of  the  date-tree  is 
one  of  the   most     curious    subjects   to    which   a   traveller 

can 


CHAP.  VIII." 


(2)  The  Arabs  feed  their  camels  with  the  date-stones,   after  grinding  them  in  their 
hand-mills. 

(3)  See  Phvenix  dactylifera.    Martyn's  Edit,  of  Miller's  Diet.    Lond.  I8O7. 

(4)  Gen.  i.  29. 


302  ALEXANDRIA  TO  COS. 

chap,  viii  can  direct  his  attention.  A  considerable  part  of  the 
inhabitants  of  Egypt,  of  Arabia,  and  Persia,  subsist  almost 
entirely  upon  its  fruit.  They  boast  also  of  its  medicinal 
virtues.  Their  camels  feed  upon  the  date-stones.  From 
the  leaves  they  make  couches,  baskets,  bags,  mats,  and 
brushes ;  from  the  branches,  cages  for  their  poultry,  and 
fences  for  their  gardens ;  from  the  fibres  of  the  boughs, 
thread,  ropes,  and  rigging;  from  the  sap  is  prepared  a 
spirituous  liquor;  and  the  body  of  the  tree  furnishes  fuel: 
it  is  even  said  that  from  one  variety  of  the  palm-tree,  the 
Phoenix  farinifera,  meal  has  been  extracted,  which  is  found 
among  the  fibres  of  the  trunk,  and  has  been  used  for  food1. 
We  cut  off* a  few  dyerids*,  and  sent  them  to  serve  as  walking- 
sticks  for  some  friends  in  England,  as  memorials  of  the 
heroism  displayed  by  our  troops  upon  the  sands  where  they 
grew.  Beneath  these  trees,  we  found  some  of  the  smaller 
cannon-shot  used  by  the  French,  when  driven  by  our  troops 
along  this  sandy  district.  Nothing  can  exceed  the  dreary  nature 
of  all  the  prospect  between  Alexandria  and  Aboukir,  if  we 
except  these  plantations  :  yet  in  this  narrow  maritime  tract3, 

the 


(1)  See  Roxburgh's  Plants  of  Coromandel,  as  published  by  the  East- India  Company, 
under  the  direction  of  Sir  Joseph  Banks.    Lond.  1 79$  ■ 

(2)  The  name  given  by  the  Turks  and  Arabs  to  the  midrib,  or  longitudinal  stem  of 
the  leaf  of  the  palm-tree.  Hence  the  name  of  Djerid,  given  to  the  equestrian  sport 
wherein  short  staves  are  thrown  by  the  combatants:  these  were  originally  Djerids ; 
but  this  name  is  now  common  to  all  short  sticks  used  as  darts  in  that  game. 

(3)  The  shape  of  it  may  be  compared  to  that  of  a  band,  or  girdle;  and  it  is  worthy 
of  remark,  that  Strabo,  speaking  of  the  district  between  the  sea  and  the  Canopican 
Canal,  uses  the  expression  artvtj  tkj  raivia  :  whether  with  reference  to  the  territory 
between  Alexandria  and  Aboukir,  or  not,  others  may  determine. 


ALEXANDRIA  TO  COS. 


303 


the  whole  of  which  may  be  comprehended  in  one  bird's-eye    ,™xp- VIIJ- 
view4,  were  situated  the  cities  of  Nicopolis,  Taposiris  Parva,     °f  the  Ci^s 

'  ■* .  '  of  Nicopolis, 

and  Canopus,  mentioned  by  Strabo\  A  person  actually  J^jr"and 
surveying  the  country,  considers  the  fact  as  scarcely  ere-  Can°p»s- 
dible ;  for  where,  in  this  confined  and  desert  space,  could 
those  cities  have  been  placed?  Notwithstanding  the  very 
general  observation  to  which  the  whole  district  has  been 
recently  exposed,  nothing  is  less  decided  than  the  locality 
of  any  one  of  those  places.  Until  lately,  we  had  not 
the  smallest  idea  of  the  geography  of  this  part  of  Egypt8; 
and  even  now,  when  we  are  become  acquainted  with 
it,  it  exhibits  only  a  long  ridge  of  sand,  extending  east 
and  west,  for  about  a  dozen  or  fifteen  miles,  which 
seems  liable,  at  every  instant,  to  be  washed  into  the 
sea7.  If,  as  some  have  supposed8,  Aboukir  denote  the  site 
of  Canopus,  the  ruins  engraved  by  Denon 9  under  that  name 

may 

(4)  See  the  Vignette  to  this  Chapter. 

(5)  Mfra  St  rrjv  Sioipvyd  rr\v  iwi  ^.ytliav  dyovaav,  6  ££>/<;  «r»  tov  Kdvaflov  nXotit 
icrri  7rapdXt)\vi;  rr\  napaXio:,  ttj  diro  *bdpov  f-i\pt-  tov  Kavo>j3tKov  OTop.a.TO<;'  artyij 
ydp  tis  Taivia  /xtra^v  SiijKtt  tov  rt  mXdyovs  teal  tjj?  Siupvyos,  iv  ?}  etrrlv  if  Tt 
fAtKpd  Tanooipn;,  /u.trd  rtjv  NtKoVoXti/  /cat  to  ZttyvptoV  dxpa  vd'ioKov  t-^ovaa 
1 Apcrivotjs  ' A<f>poS iTtjt;'  to  St  rraXaidv,  Kal  Qwviv  Tiva  woXiv  tvravdd  <j>ao~iW  k.t.X. 
"  Post  fossam,  quae  Schediam  et  Canopum  ducit,  est  navigatio  secundum  maritimam 
oram  ei,  quae  a  Pharo  usque  ad  Canopicum  ostium  perducit,  aequalibus  semper  spatiis 
opposita  :  angnsta  enim  quaedam  fascia  inter  pelagus  et  fossam  extenditur,  in  qua  est 
Parva  Taposiris,  post  Nicopolim  ac  Zephyrium,  et  promontorium  ac  Veneris  Arsinoes 
sacellum  habet.  Hoc  in  loco  dicunt  olim  urbem  Thonhn  fuisse,  &c."  Strabon.  Geog. 
lib.x\Y\.  p.  1135.     Oxon.  1807. 

(6;  See  any  of  the  Maps  of  Egypt  previous  to  the  landing  of  the  English  army  in  1801. 

(7)  See  the  "  Survey  of  the  country  between  Aboukir  and  Alexandria,"  Map  facing 
p.  272  of  the  last  Section. 

(8)  See  the  Notes  to  the  Oxford  edit,  of  Strabo,  p.  1135,  note  31. 

(9)  See  PI.  8.  Fig.  2.   torn.  II.  of  the  large  Paris  edition. 


304 


CHAP.  VITI. 


ALEXANDRIA  TO  COS. 

may  have  belonged  to  Parva  Taposiris ' ;  or  to  the  antient 
fane,  alluded  to  by  Strabo3,  at  the  Zephyrium  promontory, 
where  Thorns  formerly  stood.     But,  if  this  be  true,  where 
are  the  vestiges  of  the  channel  in  which  the  annual  devotees 
#  performed  their  voyage  from  Alexandria  to  Canopus3?    It  is 
evident  this  could  not  have  been  the  Alexandrian  Canal,  if 
Aboukir  stood  on  the  site  of  Canopus ;  for  this  Canal  has  no 
connection   with   Aboukir.     Was    it   then  a    Canal  which, 
traversing    the  bed  of  the  new  Lake,  now  called  that  of 
Aboukir,  communicated  with  the  Alexandrian  >  All  this  is  very 
uncertain.    Neither  the  observations  made  during  the  time  our 
troops  were  in  Egypt,  nor  by  the  French  who  preceded  them, 
have  in  any  degree  elucidated  this  very  difficult  part  of  the 
antient  geography  of  Egypt.    The  country  itself  seems  to  have 
been  subjected   to  the  most  mighty  revolutions,   from  the 
convulsions  of  Nature.    The  present  state  of  Nelson's  Island, 
and  of  the  antiquities  found  upon  it,  prove  that  a  very  con- 
siderable part  has  been  swallowed  by  the  waves.     The  Lake 
of  Aboukir,  or  Said,  now  a  very  considerable  inlet  of  the  sea, 

is 


(1)  They  were  thus  alluded  to  by  Colonel  Squire.  "  Three  leagues  eastward  of 
Alexandria,  immediately  on  the  sea-shore,  are  the  ruins  of  very  superb  and  extensi  e 
buildings.  It  is  imagined  these  formed  part  of  the  city  of  Taposiris  parva.  Here 
are  also  cut  out  of  the  solid  rock  a  number  of  places  which  have  the  appearance  of 
baths.  Not  far  from  this  spot,  at  a  short  distance  in  the  sea,  may  be  seen  the  fragments 
of  several  pieces  of  antient  sculpture,  granite  and  marble  Sphinxes,  a  colossal  fluted 
statue  with  the  head  of  a  dog,  an  immense  granite  Jist,  and  other  reliques,  plainly 
indicating  the  site  of  a  temple."     Colonel  Squire's  MS.  Letters. 

(2)  See  Strabo,  uli  supra. 

(3)  Strabon.  Geog.  lib.xvii.  p.  1136.    Oxon.  180/. 


ALEXANDRIA  TO  COS. 


305 


is  the  result  of  an  inundation  which  happened  within  the  chap.  vm. 
last  thirty  years.  How  is  it  possible,  therefore,  to  settle  the 
topography  of  places  whose  remains  are,  perhaps,  at  this 
time,  under  water?  The  changes  which  the  coast  has 
undergone  will  render  it  no  very  easy  task;  and  certainly  it 
has  not  yet  been  determined.  Whenever  we  undertook  the 
inquiry,  our  investigation  proved  fruitless;  and  it  is  therefore 
better  to  state  our  uncertainty,  than  to  aim  at  illustration, 
when  there  is  so  little  chance  of  precision.  Perhaps  the 
difficulty  may  have  been  increased  by  considering  Aboukir  as 
the  antient  Canopus4.  Misled  by  this  prejudice,  the  traveller 
is  withdrawn  from  the  line  of  observation  marked  out  by 
Strabo.  His  route  from  Alexandria  to  Canopus,  instead  of 
being  in  the  direction  of  Aboukir,  may  possibly  have  been 
along  the  course  of  the  Alexandrian  Canal:  and  if  this  be  the 
AlftPYH  on  which  the  Canopican  festivities  were  annually 
celebrated5,  we  must  look  for  Canopus,  and  also  for  Hera- 
clium6,  rather  in  the«direction  of  Utko  and  of  Rosetta,  towards 
the  Delta;  or  of  Rachmanie,  rather  than  in  that  of  Aboukir. 
It  was  about  sun-set  when  we  reached  the  shore  near 
Aboukir.     Here  we   hired  a  Greek  boat  to  take  us  to   our 

former 


(4)  See  Chap.  X.  p.  301.  of  the  former  Section. 

(5)  'Ev  Se^ia  Si  rfjc  Kav«/3iio/<;  ttvXvc  Qiovti,  t}  SiupvE,  lotiv  tj  C7rl  Kdvufiov  avv- 
aTTTovaa  rrj  \</nv^.  "  E  Canopica  porta  exeunti  addextram  est  fossa,  quae  lacuijungitur, 
«t  Canopum  fert."     Strab.  Geog.  lib.x\n.  p.  1135.    Oxon.  I8O7. 

(6)  Merd  Si  tov  Kdvuflov  hart  to  'HpaicXetov  to  'HpcucXeow;  t\ov  iepov'  eira  to 
K.avo)[3iKdv  <TT6p.a,  kui  t}  dp^j  tov  Ac'Xra.  "  Post  Canopum  est  Heraclium,  quod  Herculis 
templum  habet.  Inde  est  Canopicum  ostium,  et  ipsius  Delta  initium."  Stralon.  Geog. 
lib.w'n.  p.  1136.      Oxon.  I8O7. 

VOL.  III.  2   R 


306 


CHAP.  VIII. 


ALEXANDRIA  TO  COS. 

former  station  on  board  the  Felicite  merchantman,  lying 
among  the  transport  ships,  where  we  arrived  at  seven  o'clock 
the  same  evening.  The  good  old  Ragusan  Captain  gave  us 
a  hearty  welcome  to  his  cabin,  and  prepared  for  us  a  supper 
of  roasted  quails  and  pilau.  Lord  Keith  had  sailed  about 
four  days  before  for  Malta,  which  prevented  our  taking  leave 
of  him,  and  of  the  officers  of  his  ship,  from  whom  we  had 
experienced  many  civilities.  Dew  fell  in  such  abundance, 
that  the  decks  were  wetted  as  during  a  heavy  shower;  never- 
theless, from  the  very  animated  state  of  the  cabin,  we 
preferred  passing  the  night  in  this  damp  situation;  and  expe- 
rienced from  it  no  inconvenience. 

We  were  detained  in  the  fleet  until  the  twenty- third. 
Upon  the  seventeenth,  Mr.  Schutz,  who  had  been  our  com- 
panion since  we  left  Rosetta,  quitted  the  ship,  and  set  out  for 
Smvrna.  During;  the  whole  of  the  seventeenth  and  eighteenth 
it  blew  with  such  violence  from  the  north-west,  that  our  fre- 
quent endeavours  to  reach  the  Turkish  squadron  proved  inef- 
fectual. During  one  of  them,  the  crew  being  quite  exhausted 
with  rowing,  and  a  considerable  swell  meeting  the  boat  from 
that  quarter,  we  put  about,  and  hoisted  sail.  In  this  manner  we 
were  carried  unawares  so  much  to  the  leeward,  that  we  soon 
found  ourselves  approaching  the  surf.  The  first  symptom  we 
had  of  this  was  in  a  wave  which  broke  over  our  boat.  A  djerm, 
whose  course  we  had  imprudently  followed,  stood  nearer  in 
towards  the  shore,  and  gave  us  notice  of  our  danger,  by  being 
stranded  in  view  of  us.  These  accidents  happen  so  fre- 
quently to  the  Arabs,  that  they  are  under  very  little  alarm 
when  they  occur.      It    was    the    second  instance   we  had 

witnessed 


ALEXANDRIA  TO  COS. 

witnessed  of  the  same  nature1.     The  crew  of  the  djerm  were 
presently  seen  swimming  towards  the  shore,   having  aban- 
doned their  boat,  and  its  cargo,   in  the  midst  of  the   surf. 
We  saw  them  all  reach  the  land  in  perfect  safety.     In  the 
mean  time,  having  strained  every  sinew,  by  dint  of  hard  and 
continued  exertions  with  our  oars,  we  succeeded  at  last  in 
extricating  ourselves  from  this  perilous  situation.     The  old 
Ragusan,  when  we  came  on  board,  was  very  angry  with  his 
men ;  and  said  he  had  been  watching  the  boat  with  his  glass, 
expecting  every  moment  to  see  her  meet  the  same  fate  which 
the  djerm  had  experienced.     Upon  the  nineteenth,  we  had 
better  success,  being  enabled  to  reach  the  English  transport 
ships,   and  to  take  leave  of  several  of  our  friends.     We  also 
purchased  provisions  for  our  voyage;  a  little  biscuit,  some 
Adrianople  tongues,  and  some  English  porter :   all  these  were 
consumed  by  the  Turks,  nearly  as  soon  as  they  were  taken  on 
board  the  frigate  in  which  we  were  to  sail.     The  porter  had 
been   sent   as  an  adventure  from  Malta,  and  was    sold   in 
bottles,  at  the  rate  of  thirty  shillings  per  dozen.     Many  of 
the  Turks   are  fond  of  it;  and   they  can  drink  it  without 
violating  the  prohibitory  laws  of  the  Koran  respecting  wine. 
Potatoes,  the  best  of  all  provisions  for  a  sea  voyage,  could 
not  be  had ;   rice  was  very  scarce ;   and   tea  was  not  to   be 
purchased.     Encouraged,  however,  by  the  splendid  promises 
of  the  Capudan  Pasha,  who  had  been  so  liberal  to  us  upon  a 
former  occasion2,  we  bestowed  very  little  thought  upon  our 

means 


.307 


CHAP.  VIII. 


(1)  See  Chap.  I.  p.  20.  of  this  Volume. 

(2)  See  Chap.  III.  p.  6l.  of  the  former  Section. 


^$mmmm^      pm?&    #p|pip 


308 


CHAP.  VIII. 


Turkish 

Frigate. 


ALEXANDRIA  TO  COS. 

means  of  subsistence;  little  expecting  what  befel  us  in  the 
sequel.      The  nineteenth  was  passed  in  looking  over    and 
transcribing  the  Notes  for  our  Journals;  and  in  buying  a 
few  books,  taken  on  board  a  French  prize,  which  had  been 
destined  for  the  use  of  the  Institute  in  Egypt.    Upon  the 
twentieth,  the  wind  being  less  violent,  we  set  out  for  the 
Turkish  frigate,  called  Say   Yaat  Ebarey,  on  board  a   large 
barge  belonging  to  the  Fdlicite.     We  pulled  to  windward  as 
far  as  Nelson's  Island, and  then  hoisted  sail.    When  we  arrived 
on  board,  we  were  ordered  into  the  ward-room,  where  we 
were   permitted   to   sling   our  cots.     This    birth    (although 
contrary    to    the    orders    given   for    our    reception,    which 
had  assigned  us  a  place  in  the  Captain's    cabin)  proved  an 
advantageous    one    to    us,   as  it   enabled    us    to    view   the 
interior  management  of  a  Turkish  ship  of  war.     It  was  the 
rendezvous   of  all  the    officers   on    board;     two    of  whom 
were   Ragusans.      These     men,     although     entirely    under 
the    dominion    of    the   Turks,    conversed    freely   upon   the 
ignorance  and  incapacity  of  their  masters,  and  often  enter- 
tained us  with  an  account  of  their  blunders  and  imbecility. 
They  told  us,   that  the  superannuated  Captain  of  the  frigate 
had  never  been  to  sea  before  his  present  voyage;  that,  at  the 
age  of  seventy,  he  had  espoused  a  relation   of  the  Capudan 
Pasha's,  and  obtained  in  consequence  his  appointment  to  the 
frigate;    that  his   nephew,  a  young  man,  had  rather  more 
experience,  and  held  a  station  similar  to  that  of  first-lieutenant 
on  board  one  of  our  ships.     All  the  business  of  steering  the 
vessel  was  left  to  the  two  Ragusans,  and  to  an  old  pilot  who 
had  never  consulted  a  chart  in  his  life;  the  Captain's  nephew 

having 


ALEXANDRIA  TO  COS. 


309 


having  the  management  of  the  crew,  and  the  care  of  the  ,CHAP; VIIL 
rigging.  A  few  French  prisoners  were  kept  in  irons,  ready 
to  be  sent  aloft  in  rough  weather.  To  these  were  added,  a 
sturdy  buffoon,  who  might  be  considered  as  burlesquing  the 
office  of  boatswain  ;  it  was  his  duty  to  keep  the  crew  in 
good-humour  by  all  sorts  of  tricks  and  jokes;  to  promise, 
and  sometimes  to  distribute,  backshish ',  when  any  additional 
hands  were  required  in  aid  of  the  French  prisoners  aloft, 
and  when  the  Turkish  sailors  refused,  as  they  constantly 
did,  to  venture  from  the  deck;  an  ideot,  held  sacred 
as  a  saint,  and  kept  on  board  for  good  luck ;  a  couple  of 
dervishes ;  an  auctioneer,  employed  daily  in  hawking  com- 
modities for  sale  between  the  decks;  an  immense  concourse 
of  passengers,  from  all  parts  of  the  Levant ;  pilgrims  upon 
their  return  from  Mecca;  Tartars,  as  couriers;  sixty  Arabian 
horses,  belonging  to  the  Capudan  Pasha,  with  their  Arab 
grooms;  venders  of  coffee  and  tobacco,  who  had  regular 
shops  established  in  different  parts  of  the  ship; — and,  to  sum 
up  the  whole,  a  couple  of  English  travellers,  with  their 
interpreter,  a  Greek,  who  was  continually  crossing  himself 
at  the  scene  of  confusion  he  witnessed. 

The  first  day  after  our  arrival  on  board  this  frigate,  we 
received  information  that  the  Ceres  was  stationed  at  a  small 
distance  from  the  Turkish  fleet.  We  hastened  to  pay  our 
respects  once  more  to  our  excellent  friend  Captain  Russel, 
and  to  the  officers  of  his  ship ;  but  it  was  to  take  a  last  farewell 
of  him.  We  had  the  melancholy  spectacle  of  beholding 
him  almost  in  his  last  moments.     The  fever  which  he  had 

caught 

(l)  An  expression  answering  to  drink- money  in  English, 


3  JO  ALEXANDRIA  TO  COS. 

chap.  viii.     caught  in  Cyprus  had  scarcely  ever  left  him ;  and  Mr.  Hume, 
the  skilful  surgeon  of  his  ship,  had  given  over  every  hope  of 
his  recovery.    On  the  twenty-second  we  received  a  visit  from 
Captain  Culverhouse  of  the  Romulus :  returning  with  him,  we 
spent  the  day  where  we  had  before  been  so  long  and  hospitably 
entertained,  in  company  with  the  captains  of  other  ships  then 
at  anchor  in  the  bay.   Here  we  received  the  news  of  Nelson's 
glorious  victory  at  Copenhagen,  adding  to  the   triumphs  of 
our  beloved  country  which  we  had  witnessed  in  Egypt;  and 
the  more  highly  gratifying  to  us,  as,  during  our  residence  in 
Alexandria,  the  French  had  industriously  circulated  a  report 
that  Nelson  had  been  defeated.     Upon  the  twenty- third,  at 
day-break,  we  were  under  weigh,  and  soon  lost  sight  of  the 
British  fleet.      Having  thus  detailed  every  particular  of  our 
voyage  and  travels  in  the  most  interesting  region  which  it  was 
our  fortune  to  visit,  and  perhaps  more  minutely  than  was  often 
necessary,  the  remainder  of  this  section,  relating  to  the  rest  of 
our  observations  and  adventures  in  the  East,  may  be  given  less 
circumstantially;  because  they  will   be  found  to  have  refe- 
rence to  countries  better  known,  and   where  a  strict  atten- 
tion  to  every  notice   of  time  and  season,  if  it  ever  be  of 
consequence,  is  certainly  of  little  moment. 

We  had  not  been  long  on  board  the  Turkish  frigate, 
before  we  began  to  perceive  what  sort  of  fare  we  were 
likely  to  expect.  Every  article  of  food  we  had  brought 
with  us  speedily  disappeared  among  the  motley  tenants  of 
the  ward-room.  Muddy  coffee,  unsophisticated  by  any 
ingredient  which  could  add  to  its  nutritive  qualities,  might 
be  purchased  at  any  time,  in  small  cups,  each  containing 

as 


ALEXANDRIA  TO  COS. 

as  much  of  the  liquid  as  would  fill  a  dessert  spoon,  the  rest 
beinn  substantial  sediment :   this   and  the  fumes  of  tobacco 
promised   to   be   the  whole  of  our  sustenance.     At  night, 
the  spectacle  on  board  was  perhaps  one  of  the  most  striking 
which    persons   unaccustomed    to    venture    with    Turkish 
mariners    can    possibly  witness.      The  ship  seemed   to    be 
left  pretty  much  to  her  own  discretion  ;  every  officer  of  the 
watch  being  fast  asleep,  the  port-holes  all  open,  an  enormous 
quantity  of  canvas  let  loose,  and  the  passengers  between  decks, 
with  paper  lanterns,  snoozing  over  their  lighted  pipes;  while 
the  sparks  from  these  pipes,  with  pieces  of  ignited  fungus1, 
were  flying  in  all  directions.     Now  and  then,  an  unexpected 
roll    called   forth    murmuring  ejaculations   of  "Alia!"    or 
"  Mahmoud  ! "  and  a  few  were  seen  squatted  singly,  counting 
their   prayers   according  to  the  beads  upon  their  Tespies*. 
Upon  one  of  these  occasions,  the  weather  being  somewhat 
boisterous  and   the   night  very  dark,  a   gun  was  suddenly 
heard  close  under   the  ship's  bows,   and  the  snorers  were 
presently  in  uproar.      What  had  happened,  or  what  was  to 
be   done,   no   soul  on    board   could   tell.     A  message   came 
speedily    into    the    ward- room,    ordering    the    two   djowrs 
(infidels)  and  their  interpreter  to  come  with  all  haste  to  the 
Captain.     We  found  him,   with  his    long  white  beard  and 
flowing  dress,  surrounded   by  all    the  paper   lanterns   that 
could   be  collected,  extending  his  arms  upon  the  deck,  and 

scolding 


311 


CHAP.  VIII. 


(1)  Commonly  called  Amadou,    the  Boletus  igniarius,   used  over  all  Europe  and 
Asia  as  tinder ;  although  rarely  applied  to  that  purpose  in  England. 

(2)  See  Chap.  XVI.  of  the  former  Section,  p.  537,   Note  (3). 


312 


ALEXANDRIA  TO  COS. 


chap,  viii.  scolding  the  buffoon.  Before  he  could  articulate  a  word 
of  his  business  with  us,  the  report  of  another  gun  came  like 
a  clap  of  thunder,  and,  by  the  flash  which  accompanied  it, 
this  second  discharge  seemed  to  be  pointed  towards  the  frigate. 
He  then  asked  us,  with  great  agitation,  what  those  signals 
were  ?  and  what  would  be  the  consequence  of  his  not 
answering  them  ?  We  told  him  we  knew  not  what  the 
signals  were;  but  that  if  he  delayed  answering  them,  it  was 
possible  the  next  would  be  accompanied  with  shot.  He  said 
he  had  been  ordered  to  answer  a  friend  by  four  stern  lanterns, 
placed  one  above  the  other.  We  advised  him  by  all  means 
to  answer  as  to  a  friend;  and  after  a  general  "  hue  and  cry," 
the  old  Captain  himself  ascending  the  poop,  the  lanterns  were 
displayed ;  but  whether  according  to  the  proper  form  or 
not  was  never  ascertained.  We  heard  no  further  cause 
of  alarm.  When  tranquillity  was  somewhat  restored,  the 
old  Captain,  peering  to  leeward,  affected  to  see  what  no 
one  else  could  discern,  and  called  out  with  great  seeming- 
satisfaction,  "  Kootchuk!  Kootchuk ! '"  a  little  one!  a  little  one! 
as  possibly  it  might  have  been  ;  viz.  one  of  our  English 
cutters,  whose  crew  were  perhaps  amusing  themselves  with 
the  aukwardness  of  our  manoeuvres,  and  the  panic  they  had 
occasioned. 

There  was  no  log-book  to  which  we  could  refer,  as  in 
our  former  voyages,  on  board  English  men-of-war;  conse- 
quently we  had  little  opportunity  of  adding  to  nautical 
observations.  The  mercury,  in  Fahrenheit's  thermometer, 
stood,  September  27,  at  78,  at  noon:  yet,  coming  from 
a  warmer  climate,  we  felt  chilly,  and  put  on  our  winter 
clothing.     Towards  evening,  this  day,  the  weather  became 

squally, 


ALEXANDRIA  TO  COS. 


313 


squally,  and  the  old  Captain  would  gladly  have  made  a  chap,  vnr. 
few  reefs  in  his  wide- spreading  canvas  :  the  buffoon  was  ac- 
cordingly set  to  work,  to  have  this  accomplished ;  in  the  mean 
time  the  fore-sail  went  to  shivers.  Never  was  there  a  scene 
of  greater  confusion.  In  the  midst  of  it,  one  of  us  attempted 
to  assist,  and  even  spoke  to  the  Captain.  His  rage  upon 
being  addressed  by  an  infidel  at  this  critical  moment 
exceeded  all  bounds.  He  spat  first  upon  the  deck1,  then  into 
the  sea,  attributing  the  accident  entirely  to  our  presence  on 
board,  and  cursing  the  whole  race  of  Christians,  as  the 
authors  of  all  the  ill-luck  he  had  ever  encountered.  The 
gale  increased  ;  but  it  came  on  from  the  north-west  with 
more  steady  violence,  and  by  taking  it  in  poop,  and  running 
before  it,  according  to  the  invariable  practice  of  the  Turks, 
we  were  secure  as  long  as  sea- room  could  be  found.  It 
continued  in  this  manner  during  one  entire  night;  and  if  it 
had  not  abated  the  next  morning,  Sept.  28th,  the  ship,  being 
suffered  to  drive,  would  have  been  wrecked  upon  the  first 
lee-shore  that  intervened  in  her  course  towards  the  south- 
east. This  day  at  noon,  the  author  having  found  an  excel- 
lent sextant  in  the  ward- room,  which  had  been  taken  from  a 
French  prisoner,  made  an  observation  of  the  ship's  latitude ; 
and  calculating,  as  well  as  he  was  able,  the  course  she  had 
made,  upon  a  chart  belonging  to  one  of  the  Ragusans,  ascer- 
tained her  position,  Lat.  34°.  50',  French  Longit.  48°.  As 
the  pilots  on  board,  being  out  of  sight  of  land,  knew  nothing 
of  her  situation,  he  sent  the  chart,  with  a  respectful  message 

to 

(1)  The  Oriental  mode  of  cursing,  by  spitting  upon  the  ground.     Allusion  has  been 
already  made  to  this  practice  in  the  former  Chapter.     See  p.  2Q5,  Note  (l). 

VOL.  III.    .  '  2  S 


314 


ALEXANDRIA  TO  COS. 


CHAP.  VIII. 


to  the  Captain,  telling  him  the  ship's  latitude,  and  her  pro- 
bable distance  from  Rhodes,  Finica  Bay,  Cyprus,  &c.  Upon 
this  he  was  summoned,  with  the  Ragusan,  into  the  cabin, 
and  immediately  asked,  how  he  could  pretend  to  know 
where  the  ship  then  was  ?  Having  stated  that  he  had  ascer- 
tained this  by  means  of  a  sextant  found  in  a  drawer  of  the 
ward-room,  and  a  calculation  of  the  ship's  course,  according 
to  the  common  observations  daily  made  on  board  English  and 
other  ships,  the  Ragusan  was  despatched  to  bring  the  thing 
called  sextant  instantly  before  the  Captain.  This  instrument 
being  altogether  incomprehensible  to  him,  he  contented 
himself  with  viewing  it  in  every  direction,  except  that 
in  which  it  might  be  used ;  and,  stroking  his  long  beard, 
said  to  the  Ragusan,  "  Thus  it  is  always  with  these  poor 
djowrs  (infidels),  they  can  make  nothing  out  without  some 
peeping  contrivance  of  this  kind :  now  tue  Turks  require  no 
sextants — we,  (pointing  with  his  finger  to  his  forehead)  we 
have  our  sextants  here," 

The  wind  changing,  we  continued  drifting  about, 
with  occasional  apprehensions  of  starvation,  drowning,  or 
of  being  blown  up  by  the  ship's  taking  fire.  The  first 
land  we  saw  was  ascertained  to  be  a  part  of  the  moun- 
tainous coast  of  Caramania,  or  Lycia.  Passing  in  view  of  the 
Chelidonian  Isles,  and  Promontorium  Sacrum,  we  stood  into 
Bay  of  Finica.  Finica  Bay,  whither  the  Turkish  fleet,  lying  at  Aboukir, 
had  resorted  for  fresh  water  from  the  river  Limyrus,  which 
falls  into  the  bay,  near  the  village  or  town  of  Finica,  where 
Limyra  formerly  stood.  Here  we  were  becalmed ;  and 
being  near  enough  to  see  the  houses  on  shore,  we  applied 
for  permission  to  land,  that  we  might  examine  the  remains  of 

Limyra, 


ALEXANDRIA  TO  COS. 


315 


Limyra,  and  also  of  My ra,  which  stood  near  the  mouth  of  chap^viii. 
another  river,  upon  the  western  side  of  the  bay.  Our 
Captain,  by  the  advice  of  his  pilots,  acted  for  once  like  a 
true  seaman,  and  would  allow  no  one  to  land ;  intending, 
as  he  said,  to  get  farther  out  to  sea  as  soon  as  possible. 
As  the  evening  advanced,  a  land-breeze  carried  us  again 
from  the  bay ;  but  before  night  came  on,  it  blew  only  in 
hot  gusts ;  and  being  upon  deck,  we  were  in  utter  asto- 
nishment at  the  indescribable  grandeur  of  the  Lycian 
coast,  and  the  awful  phenomena  by  which  we  were  sur- 
rounded. Stupendous  mountains,  as  the  shadows  increased, 
appeared  close  to  the  ship,  towering  above  our  top- masts  ; 
the  higher  parts  being  covered  with  snow,  or  partly  con- 
cealed by  thick  clouds ;  the  air  around  us  becoming  every 
instant   more   sultry   and    stagnant.     Presently    the    whole    Meteoric 

Phenomena. 

atmosphere  was  illuminated.  The  mountains  seemed  to 
vomit  fire.  A  pale  but  vivid  lightning  darted  innumerable 
flashes  over  every  object,  even  among  the  masts  and  rig- 
ging. Never  surely  was  such  a  scene  elsewhere  exhibited ! 
The  old  Greek  pilots  crossed  themselves,  but  comforted 
us  with  the  assurance  that  this  appearance  of  the  kindling 
elements  was  common  upon  this  coast;  and  that  it 
denoted  favourable  weather.  We  heard  little  thunder; 
but  streams  of  living  light  ran  continually  from  the 
summits  of  the  mountains  towards  the  sea,  and,  seeming  to 
separate  before  they  reached  the  water,  filled  the  air  with 
coruscations.  Since,  reflecting  upon  this  circumstance 
as  characterizing  the  coast,  it  seems  to  explain  a  fabulous 
notion    which   the   Antients   entertained    of  the   Chimaera 

disgorging 


jiii 


316 


CHAP.  VIII. 


Chimera  of 
the  Antients. 


Eastern  Coast 
of  Rhodes. 


ALEXANDRIA  TO  COS. 

disgorging  flames  upon  the  Lycian  territory1,  alluded  to  by 
Ovid  in  the  wandering  of  BibhV.  It  is  true,  that  a  volcano 
might  suit  the  story  better ;  and  it  is  thus  explained  by 
Servius,  with  reference  to  a  burning  mountain  in  the  neigh- 
bouring region  of  Caria;  the  topographical  history  of  the 
Chimera  being  by  some  writers  attributed  to  Caria,  and 
by  others  to  Lycja;  but  the  existence  of  this  volcano  has  not 
yet  been  ascertained  :  indeed  such  is  our  ignorance  of  the 
whole  coast  of  Asia  Minor,  from  Cnidus  to  Tarsus,  in- 
cluding all  the  maritime  districts  of  Caria,  Lycia,  Pamphylia, 
and  Cilicia,  that  we  have  no  account  either  of  its  ruins  or  its 
natural  history3. 

Sailing  westward  the  whole  night  and  following  day,  on 
the  morning  of  October  the  first,  at  sun-rise,  we  made  the 
eastern  coast  of  the  Island  of  Rhodes,  and  put  the  ship's 
head  to  the  north.  During  this  day  we  had  some  pleasant 
sailing,  within  twenty  miles  of  the  shore:  the  atmosphere 
being  exceedingly  clear,  we  seemed  to  survey  the  whole 
island  in  one  view,  from  its  southern  towards  its  northern 
extremity.  Coming  opposite  to  Lindus,  the  weather  being 
calm,  the  author  was  enabled  to  complete  an  outline  of  this 
once-favoured  land4,  according  to  its  bearing  at  the  time. 

It 


(1)  "  In  Lycia  igitur,  a  promontorio  ejus  oppidum  Simena,  "ions  Chim&ra  noctibus 
flagrans."    Plin.  Hist.  Nat.  lib.  v.  c.  27.  torn.  I.  p.  271.     L.  Bat.  1635. 

(2)  Ovid.  Metam.  lib.  ix. 

(3)  In  the  number  of  English  travellers  now  visiting  the  Eastern  shores  of  the  Medi- 
terranean, it  is  hoped  that  some  one  will  be  induced  to  explore  these  regions. 

(4)  "  Pulcherrima  et  libera  Rhodos."    (Plin.  Hist.  Nat.  1.  v.  c.  31.   L.  Bat.  1635. 
See  also  Lucian. 


fit*.'!1 


Ml  ijiri 


'     ■     I    LM'I 


RHODES LINDUS. 


317 


It  embraces  nearly  its  whole  extent,  from  north  to  ,CHAP- VIlt* 
south ;  shewing  the  relative  position  of  Lindus  and  Rhodes, 
and  the  appearance  exhibited  by  its  rough,  craggy,  and 
broken  land,  as  compared  with  the  features  of  other  islands 
represented  in  the  former  section.  The  country  immediately 
around  Lindus  is  described  by  Philostratus  as  being  the  most 
rugged  of  the  Rhodian  territory.  It  was  particularly  fa- 
vourable for  the  cultivation  of  the  vine  and  the  fig-tree,  but 
ill  adapted  to  other  purposes  of  agriculture,  and  impassable 
for  carts  and  waggons.  In  this  perhaps  it  resembled  the 
Land  of  Judaea,  where  corn  has  always  been  cultivated  by 
means  of  terraces  formed  upon  the  sides  of  the  mountains. 
From  the  nature  of  the  land  about  Lindus,  the  whole  island 
received  the  appellation  which  it  bears  in  Statius6,  of*'  the 
rugged  Rhodes"  Our  pilots  pointed  out  to  us  the  emi- 
nence on  which  the  remains  of  antient  Lindus  are.  situ- 
ated. The  collection  of  rarities  once  dedicated  in  votive 
offerings  at  the  shrine  of  the  Lindian  Minerva,  must  have 
rendered  the  temple,  considered  as  a  museum  only,  one  of 
the  most  curious  sights  to  which  the  inhabitants  of  Greece 
resorted.  Vessels  of  antient  bronze,  military  trophies,  armour, 
and  weapons,  were  frequently  suspended  as  donatives  in 
their  sanctuaries.  But  such  was  the  antiquity  of  some  of 
the  gifts  in  the  Lindian  temple,  that  one  of  them,  a  bronze 
caldron,  had  been  presented  by  Cadmus ;  and  it  was  distin- 
guished  by  an   inscription  in  Phoenician  characters6.     An 

offering 


(5)  In  Equo  Domitiani,  lib.  ii. 

(6)  Diodorus  Sic.  lib.  ii.    Herodot.  lib.ii. 


318 


CHAP.  VIII. 


Southern 
Shores  of 
Asia  Minor. 


ALEXANDRIA  TO  COS. 

offering  of  Amasis,  king  of  Egypt,  seems  to  have  been  re- 
garded as  the  principal  marvel  of  the  temple,  notwithstanding 
the  pictures  of  Parrhasius  and  of  Zeuxis,  by  which  it  had  been 
adorned ;  this  was  a  linen  thorax  of  net- work,  each  thread 
consisting  of  as  many  filaments  as  there  are  days  in  the  year. 
The  Consul  Mutianus,  says  Pliny,  had  himself  unravelled  one 
of  these  threads,  and  had  borne  testimony  to  the  fact1. 

From  the  eastern  coast  of  Rhodes  our  Captain  stood  over 
once  more  towards  the  coast  of  Lycia  and  the  Seven  Capes. 
In  the  morning  of  October  the  second,  we  found  ourselves 
in  the  midst  of  islands  and  promontories,  placed  upon  the 
bright  expanse  as  it  were  of  a  mirror  without  boundary.  It 
is  quite  impossible  to  excite,  by  description,  any  ideas  of  such 
scenery.  The  impression  made  upon  our  minds,  who  had 
beheld  these  sights  before,  was  new  again.  The  immensity 
of  the  objects ;  the  varied  nature  of  the  territory  over  all  the 
southern  shores  of  Asia  Minor;  the  prodigious  effect  of  light 
and  shade,  in  masses  extending  for  leagues;  the  sublime 
effulgence  and  the  ineffable  whiteness  of  the  snow-clad 
summits,  contrasted  with  the  dark  chasms  on  the  sides  of 
the  mountains ;  the  bold  precipices,  and  the  groupes  of 
numerous  islands ;  the  glorious  brightness  and  the  intensity 
of  colour  diffused  over  the  horizon  ; — these  indeed  may  be 
enumerated,  but  they  cannot  be  described.  We  con- 
tinued surveying  them,  as  if  we  had  then  seen  them  only 

for 

(l)  "  Mirentur  hoc,  ignorantes  in  iEgyptii  quondam  regis,  quern  Amasim  vocanr, 
thorace  in  Rhodiorum  insula  ostendi  in  templo  Minervae  ccclxv  fills  singula  fila  constare. 
Quod  se  expertum  nuper  Romas  prodidit  Mutianus  ter  Consul,  parvasque  jam  reliquias 
ejus  superesse  hac  experientium  injuria."    Plin.  Hist.  Nat.  lib.  xix.  c.  1.   L.  Bat.  1635. 


ALEXANDRIA  TO  COS. 


319 


for  the  first  time.  The  Turkish  practice  of  keeping  near  the 
shore,  when  land  is  in  view,  enabled  us  to  see  the  whole 
coast  of  Lycia  and  of  Caria.  As  we  proceeded  towards 
Doris,  the  eye  commanded  in  one  prospect  the  whole  of 
that  part  of  Asia  Minor,  even  to  the  Triopian  Promontory, 
or  Cape  Crio,  together  with  the  islands  of  Rhodes,  Syme, 
Sicklia,  Telo,  and  even  Scarpanto,  lying  at  the  distance  of 
thirty  leagues  in  the  Carpathian  Sea2. 

During  this  day  we  were  employed  in  crossing  the  mouth 
of  the  Gulph  of  Glaucus.  Continuing  our  voyage  towards 
the  north-west,we  found  ourselves  becalmed  near  the  entrance 
of  the  Bay  of  Marmora,  antiently  that  of  Perzea,  the  memorable 
rendezvous  of  our  fleet,  previous  to  the  Egyptian  Expedition. 
The  magnificent  harbour  it  affords  has  been  described  by 
other  writers;  but  as  it  remained  so  long  unknown,  and  may 
always  prove  an  important  place  of  refuge  for  vessels  in  these 
stormy  seas,  the  author  again  availed  himself  of  the  tranquil 
situation  of  the  ship  to  sketch  the  appearance  of  the  coast, 
and  to  note  the  bearing  of  the  land  when  the  view 
was  made'.      It   will  shew  the  mountainous  course  of  the 

territory 


chap,  viil 


(2)  "  Rhodiorum  insulae,  Carpathus,  quae  mari  nomen  dedit."  Plin.  Hist.  Kat. 
lib.  v.  c.31.  torn.  I.  p. 280.    L.  Bat.  1635. 

(3)  A  short  extract  from  Colonel  Squire's  MS.  Correspondence  will  afford  the 
reader  a  description  of  this  bay  ;  and  the  curious  circumstance  of  the  "  myrtle  fascines," 
prepared  for  the  attack  in  Egypt,  will  not  pass  without  observation.  It  is  taken  from 
a  Letter  to  the  Rev.  E.  Squire,    dated    "  Marmorice  Bay,  Jan.  21,  1801." 

"  Our  present  situation  is  as  charming  and  picturesque  as  can  well  be  imagined  :  the 
bay  is  completely  landlocked,  and,  from  within,  appears  as  a  sheet  of  water,  or  lake, 
surrounded  by  lofty  mountains,  wooded  to  the  very  summit;  but  here  and  there  divided 
by  deep  impenetrable  valleys,  thick  with  shrubs  of  every  description  ;  to  which  a  clear, 
yet  constant  stream,  imparts  freshness  and  verdure.    Sometimes  one  height  is  separated 

from 


Bay  of 
Marmora. 


'••wwwjran  «Bv«^7a»»^<   7*r'w^?*s~      i*<F!**<r-  ■  *w*j2 


320  ALEXANDRIA  TO  COS. 

chap.  viii.     territory  opposite  Rhodes ;  although  the  features  of  Nature 
do  not  here  present  so   gigantic   an  appearance  as  to  the 
eastward    of  the   Seven  Capes.      The  wind  afterwards  be- 
coming favourable  for  Rhodes,  we  stood  for  the  town ;  and 
coming  close  to  it,  fired  a  gun,  as  a  signal  for  a  boat  to  put 
off  to  the  ship.     When  the  boat  arrived,  we  represented  to 
the  Captain  the  necessity  of  our  landing  with  the  despatches 
from  the  Capudan  Pasha,  which  he  had  charged  us  to  deliver 
with  our  own  hands  to  the  Governor;  but  the  wary  old  Turk, 
apprehending  at  least  the  possibility  of  its  being  an  order  for 
his  own  execution1,  delivered  the  despatches  to  the  boatmen, 
and,  without  waiting  for  any  answer,  made  all  the  sail  he 
could  to  get  away  from  the  island.     The  Ragusans  explained 
his  conduct  to  us;  for   it  seemed  otherwise  unaccountable 
that  he  should  thus  wantonly  disobey  his  commanding  officer, 
to  whom,  at  the  same  time,  he  was  so  nearly  related. 

On  the  following  morning  we  found  that  we  had  made 
but  little  progress,  being  off  the  Island  of  Episcopia,  or 
Piscopy,  called  Hellika  by  the  Turks,  and  Telo  by  the  modern 

Greeks, 


from  another  by  a  large  extensive  plain,  divided  into  fields,  and  covered  with  an 
abundance  of  cattle  :  add  to  these  the  little  town  of  Marmorice,  with  its  mosque  and 
minaret,  the  shipping  at  anchor,  the  boats  passing  to  and  fro,  the  tents  on  differert  parts 
of  the  shore,  and  the  variety  of  objects,  will  be  found  to  compose  a  picture  tint  can 
never  be  surpassed.  On  the  ninth  instant,  my  brother  officers  and  myself  were  hnded, 
and  encamped  with  a  party  of  two  hundred  artificers,  for  the  purpose  of  making  fiscines, 
and  preparing  our  particular  branch  of  the  service  for  the  ensuing  campaign.  Would 
you  believe  that  most  of  our  fascines  are  of  the  most  beautiful  myrtle  j  an<i  that, 
probably,  in  a  few  weeks,  we  shall  be  planting  our  cannon  in  myrtle 
batteries   before  Alexandria?"     Colonel  Squire's  MS.  Correspondence. 

(l)  The  grandees  of  Turkey  are  sometimes  sent  to  Rhodes,  when  it  is  necesary  to 
get  rid  of  them,  with  an  order  to  the  Governor  for  their  own  execution. 


ISLAND   OF   COS. 


321 


Town  of 
Stanciiio. 


Greeks,  antiently  Telos*.  Thence  doubling  again  the  chvp.  vu. 
Triopian  promontory,  we  came  once  more  in  sight  of  Cos, 
and  arrived  near  the  town  of  Stanchio,  Sunday,  October  the 
fourth.  Here  a  Dervish,  who  came  with  us  from  Egypt, 
wished  to  go  on  shore ;  and  as  we  had  still  much  to  do  in 
Greece,  and  were  very  desirous  of  leaving  the  Turkish  frigate, 
we  renewed  our  applications  to  the  Captain  to  enable  us  to 
land  with  the  Dervish.  He  told  us  not  to  lose  a  moment,  if 
such  were  our  intentions,  as  the  small  boat  which  he  had 
prepared  was  incapable  of  containing  many  persons,  and  it 
was  filling  very  fast  from  the  port-holes.  We  committed 
some  of  our  trunks  to  his  care,  to  be  conveyed  to  Constan- 
tinople ;  and  taking  with  us  as  few  necessaries  as  possible, 
leaped  into  the  midst  of  the  crowd  in  the  boat,  at  the  moment 
in  which  it  was  leaving  the  ship.  Fortunately  the  sea  was 
perfectly  calm;  for  we  soon  found  that  with  the  smallest 
motion  we  should  all  go  to  the  bottom,  the  water  being 
already  even  with  the  boat's  edge;  and  it  required  the  utmost 
caution  in  rowing  her  three  miles  from  the  ship  to  the  shore, 
to  prevent  her  filling;  so  deeply  was  she  laden. 

A  Greek  bishop  had  arrived  in  Stanchio  since  our  last  visit, 
to  whom  we  were  introduced.  He  began  already  to  wish  for 
the  money  which  his  promotion  had  cost  him ;  having  gained 
nothing  by  the  bargain,  as  he  himself  told  us,  excepting  a  fine 
painted  and  gilded  firman,  from  Constantinople,  which  no  one 
respected.    He  intended  however,  as  he  told  us,  to  reimburse 

himself 


(2)  See  Plate  facing  p.  220  of  the  First  Section  of  Part  II. 
VOL.  III.  2  T 


322 


CHAP.  VIII. 


Situation  of 
the  French 
Consul. 


ISLAND   OF   COS. 

himself  in  his  capacity  of  magistrate;  the  bishops  in  the 
Isles  acting  as  justices  of  the  peace,  in  all  disputes  among  the 
Greeks,  and  generally  taking  care  to  be  well  paid  for  their 
trouble.  He  accompanied  us  to  the  Governor,  where,  having 
obtained  an  audience,  we  produced  a  letter  from  the  Capudan 
Pasha,  enjoining  all  persons,  as  far  as  the  Turkish  power  by 
sea  extended,  to  render  us  assistance  upon  our  travels.  We 
told  the  Governor,  that  we  had  no  other  favour  to  ask  of 
him,  than  to  procure  for  us  some  vessel  which  we  might 
hire  by  the  month.  He  said  there  was  nothing  suitable  at 
present  in  the  harbour;  but  desired  our  Interpreter  to  accom- 
pany one  of  his  officers  to  the  opposite  port  of  Budrun 
(Halicarnassus) ,  where  it  might  be  possible  to  find  something 
adapted  to  our  undertaking.  To  this  we  agreed,  and  hired 
a  set  of  apartments  near  the  bishop's  house,  where  we 
remained,  waiting  the  return  of  our  messengers. 

The  next  day  we  received  a  visit  from  our  old  friend  the 
French  Consul,  who  came  to  welcome  our  arrival,  and,  poor 
as  he  wTas,  to  offer  his  services.  He  had  not  received  a 
single  sous  from  his  government  since  he  had  resided 
upon  the  island;  nor  was  there  any  prospect  that  the  arrears 
would  be  paid.  While  he  remained  with  uss  he  received 
information  that  a  transport  ship,  with  French  prisoners 
from  Egypt,  having  separated  from  the  convoy,  had  put  in 
for  water  and  provisions.  We  told  him,  that  a  proper 
opportunity  now  offered  of  obtaining  some  supply  from  his 
countrymen;  as  they  had  been  allowed  to  remove  to  France 
the  wealth  which  they  had  acquired  in  Egypt  by  plunder,  and, 
doubtless,  had  much  treasure  on  board.  He  smiled  at  the 
idea  of  receiving  assistance  from  any  of  the  "  Heroes  of  the 

Republic. .'" 


\ 


ISLAND   OF    COS. 

Republic /"  but  allowed  us  to  make  the  experiment;  stating 
first  a  memorial  of  his  case  in  writing,  and  addressing  it 
to  the  officers  and  privates  in  the  transport.  With  this 
document  we  hastened  on  board;  and  being  conducted  into 
the  cabin,  found  there  a  General  of  the  French  army,  who  had 
lost  a  leg  in  one  of  the  late  actions,  and  was  confined  to  his 
cot,  surrounded  by  French  soldiers,  some  of  whom  were 
officers,  all  disputing  and  talking  at  once.  As  soon  as  we 
had  obtained  a  hearing,  we  presented  our  petition,  and 
endeavoured  to  urge  the  suit  entrusted  to  us  with  all  the 
persuasion  we  could  use.  It  w^as  to  no  purpose.  The 
Consul,  they  said,  might  be  a  man  of  merit ;  he  had 
served  his  country  faithfully;  but  there  was  nothing  in  their 
situation,  or  in  his,  that  could  warrant  an  interposition  on 
their  part  between  the  republic  and  its  agents.  We  contended 
that  it  ought  not  to  be  considered  as  an  interference  in  State 
matters,  but  as  a  work  of  common  charity,  and  as  an  act 
of  real  patriotism:  but  these  terms,  charity  and  patriotism,  as 
they  were  to  be  paid  for,  were  not  very  graciously  received. 
After  a  few  more  appeals  and  repeals,  bows,  protestations, 
and  grimaces,  we  were  forced  to  return  without  having 
accomplished  the  object  of  our  mission. 

During  four  days  that  we  were  detained  upon  the  island, 
we  renewed  our  search  after  antiquities,  and  particularly 
after  Inscriptions.  We  had  every  reason  to  believe  that  re- 
mains of  this  kind  might  be  found  within  the  Castle;  but  our 
entrance  was,  as  usual,  strictly  prohibited.  The  Consul  himself 
had  never  obtained  admission;  so  cautious  are  the  Turks  in 
preventing  foreigners  from  inspecting  their  fortifications. 
We  ventured,  however,  upon  the  draw-bridge  which  crosses 

the 


323 


CHAP.  VIII. 


Antient 
Sculpture. 


Inscriptions. 


ISLAND   OF  COS. 

the  mote  on  the  land  side;  and  as  we  drew  near  to  the 
gateway,  observed  above  the  entrance,  six  masks ',  of  the  most 
exquisite  sculpture:  some  of  these  were  represented  with 
beards.  We  saw  also,  very  distinctly,  the  letters  of  a  Greek 
Inscription  on  each  side  of  the  entrance2. 

These  Inscriptions,  notwithstanding  the  expedition,  and 
the  circumspection  also,  requisite  in  tracing  them,  the 
author  believes  he  has  copied  with  accuracy.  The  first 
is  a  most  affecting  and  beautiful  memorial  of  filial  piety  in 
an  eminently  virtuous  woman.  It  is  in  the  wall,  on  the  left 
side  of  the  Castle-gate,  to  a  person  facing  the  entrance. 
It  sets  forth,  that  "  the  senate  and  people  have  honoured 

SUETONIA  THE  DAUGHTER  OF  CAIUS,  WHO  HAS  LIVED  CHASTELY 
AND  WITH  DECORUM;  BOTH  ON  ACCOUNT  OF  HER  OWN  VIRTUE, 
AND  THE  BENEVOLENCE  SHE  HAS  SHEWN  TOWARDS  HER  FATHER." 

The  legend  is  as  follows: 


ABOYAAKAIOAAMOZ 

ETEI  M  AZANZOYHTI2 

NIANrAIOYGYrATEPA 

nPEIMANZHZAZAN 

Zf2<l>PON12ZKAIKOZ 

M  IftZAIATETANAYTAZ 

APETANKAIAIATANEZ 

TON  n  ATEPAAYTAZ 

ZOYHTflNIONEPMI 

ANEYNOIANTEIMAZXAPIM 


On 


(1)  A  part  of  the  frieze  mentioned  in  the  former  Section,  Chap.  VII.  p.  213, 
Note  (1).   Broxb.  1813. 

(21  As  neither  of  these  Inscriptions  has  been  observed  or  published  by  Spon,  or 
any  other  former  traveller,   no  apology  is  necessary  for  their  insertion  here.     It  may 

be 


ISLAND   OF  COS. 


325 


On  the  right-hand  side  of  the  gate,  exactly  opposite  to  this,     chap.viii. 
is  another   Inscription  of  a  similar  nature,  commemorating 
the  exemplary  conduct  of  a  woman  towards  her  husband; 
purporting  that  "  the  people  erect  anaxinaea  daughter 

OF  EUAEON,  WIFE  OF  CHARMYLUS,  ON  ACCOUNT  OF  HER  VIRTUE 
AND     CHASTITY    AND    BENEVOLENCE    TOWARDS    HER   HUSBAND." 

This  is  the  order  of  the  legend : 

OAAMOZANE0HKE 

ANAZINAHANEYAIONOZ 

TYNAIKAAEXAPMYAOYTOY 

XAPMYAOYAPETAZEN  EKAKAI 

Zn<t>POZYNAZKAITAZnOTI 

TONANAPAAYTAZEYNOIAZ 

What  an  exalted  idea  do  these  records  convey  of  the  state 
of  society,  in  a  country  where  the  private  virtues  of  the 
inhabitants  were  considered  as  public  benefits,  and  were 
gratefully  and  publickly  commemorated  by  the  Senate  and  the 
People;  where  the  filial  piety  and  the  chastity  of  its  women 
were  thus  honoured  and  rewarded!  Even  amidst  the  de- 
praved state  of  public  morals,  in  the  modern  cities  of  Europe, 
were  these  virtues  estimated  at  as  high  a  price,  each  nation 
would  have  to  boast  of  an  Anaxincea  and  a  Suetonia.  Let 
there  be  only  an  equal  excitement  to  virtue,  and  human-nature 
would  be  found   the  same  in  every  age.     The  sublime  and 

affecting 

be  said,  th.it  a  more  methodical  distribution  of  the  subject  of  these  Travels  would- have 
required  their  introduction  into  the  account  of  Co*,  as  it  was  published  in  the  lormer 
Section:  but  in  the  very  beginning  of  his  undertaking  (See  Part  1.  p.  3.)  the  author  pro- 
mised to  make  his  Work  "  as  similar  as  possible  to  the  state  in  which  Notes  taken  on  the 
spot  were  made;'  and  he  is  not  conscious  of  having  ever  deviated  from  his  engagement. 


s 


326 


ISLAND   OF   COS. 


chap,  viii.  affecting  institution  of  national  honours  for  exemplary  morals 
would  not  operate  less  effectually  in  this  enlightened  age 
than  in  the  best  periods  of  Grecian  history ;  and  although  "  the 
price  of  a  virtuous  woman  is  far  above  rubies,"  yet  in  such 
an  institution  even  female  virtue  would  find  its  value :  "  her 
own  works  would  praise  her  in  the  gates,"  and  "  strength 
and  honour  would  be  her  clothing." 

We  found  other  Inscriptions  in  our  second  visit  to  this 
island,  but  of  less  consideration.  Upon  a  slab  of  Cipolino 
marble,  forming  a  bench  near  to  the  old  Greek  Monastery, 
we  observed  an  Inscription  of  some  length,  relating  to  one 
of  the  vessels  employed  in  a  bath ;  beginning  hittaaoi,  and 
followed  by  a  list  of  names.  Others  upon  votive  altars  were 
numerous.  Near  to  an  arch  at  the  entrance  of  the  Market, 
we  saw  a  beautiful  altar  of  Parian  marble,  ornamented  with 
bulls'  heads,  having  bands  or  fillets,  as  for  sacrifice,  falling 
on  each  side;  and  supporting  festoons  of  flowers,  beauti- 
fully sculptured.     It  had  this  Inscription : 

HPAKAEIAOYTOY 

APTEMIAnPOY 

AAEZANAPEI1Z 

These,  with  fragments  of  porphyry,  breccia,  and  other  ma- 
terials of  antient  sculpture,  lying  about  the  modern  town  of 
Stanchio,  and  already  alluded  to1,  are  all  that  we  noticed 
upon  this  occasion.  Of  the  renowned  Asclepie'um,  men- 
tioned 


(l)  See  Chap.  VII.  p.  213,  of  the  former  Section  of  Part  II.    Broxb.  1812. 


ISLAND   OF   COS. 


327 


timed  by  Strabo2,  we  could  find  no   traces;  although  it  is     chap.vih., 
reasonable  to   expect  that   the  remains  of  such  a  building     Asdepteam. 
nay  be  here   discovered:    it  was  situated  in  a  suburb  of  the 
antient  city;  notofJstypalea,  the  first  metropolis  of  the  people 
01  Cos — for  that  city  stood  elsewhere3 — but   of  Cos,  a  city 
built  upon  the  point  of  Scander'ia,  to  the  westward;  so  that  its 
stburbs  probably  occupied  the  situation  of  the  modern  town. 
Possibly  the  Mosque  may  now  occupy  the  original  site  of  the 
A.clepieum:    near  to  it  there  was  a  grove,  consecrated  to 
iEsculapius4.     One  of  the  assassins  of  Julius  Caesar,  Publius 
Turullius,  a  Roman  senator,   cut  down  almost  all  the  trees 
for  ship  timber;  but  afterwards,  being  delivered   up  by  his 
friend  Anthony  to  Augustus,  he  was  put   to  death.     In  the 
uncertainty  which  prevails  with  regard  to  the  age  of  trees5, 
and  particularly  of  the  Plane-tree,  which  is  known  to  exist  for 
centuries,  perhaps  the  marvellous   tree  ofStanchio,  alluded  to 
upon  a  former  occasion6,  if  it   be  not  a  venerable  remnant 
of  this  grove,  may,  as  a  spontaneous  produce  resulting  from 
it,  denote  its  actual  situation.     The  conjecture  seems  to  be 
warranted  by  the  number  of  antient  altars  still  remaining 
about  the  body  of  this  tree.     The  Asclepieum  was  filled 

with 


(2)  'A2KAHIHEION.    Strabon.  Geog.  lib.xiv.  p.g41.    Oxon.  I8O7. 

(3)  'H  Sc  tuv  Kuuy  tt6\i<;  tKaXciro  to  rraXaidy  "A-frrvwakaia,  Kal  uiictiro  h  <x\\f 
Tony.     Strabon.  Geog.  lib.xiv.  p.  940.    Ed.  Oxon.  I8O7. 

(4)  Dio  Cassius. 

(5)  Cowper  speaks  of  an  oak  which  had  flourished  from  the  time  of  the  conquest  5 
(See  Hayley's  Life  of  Cowper,  vol.  III.  p.  166.  Chichest.  1806.)  and  allusion  has  been 
already  made  to  the  famous  olive-tree  in  the  Citadel  at  Athens,  that  had  existed  from 
the  foundation  of  the  city. 

(6)  See  p.  198  of  the  former  Section.    Broth.  1812. 


328 


CH\P  VIII. 


Votive 
Otferinjrs. 


ISLAND   OF    COS. 

with  the  most  costly  vows;  and,  among  the  number,  the  most 
famous  paintings  of  Apelles — his  Antigomis,  and  his  Venus 
Anadyomene.  Augustus  removed  the  last  picture  to  Rome, 
and  there  consecrated  it  in  the  shrine  of  his  father1. 

The  custom  of  suspending  pictures  in  churches,  repre- 
senting hair-breadth  escapes  from  casual  disaster  or  disorder, 
as  votive  offerings  to  patron  Saints  who  are  believed  to  have 
been  propitious  to  the  donors,  is  still  common  in  many  coun- 
tries, particularly  where  the  Greek  and  the  Catholic  religion 
is  professed:  in  the  same  manner,  models  in  wax,  or  sculp- 
tured representations  of  parts  of  the  human  body,  such  as 
the  hands  or  the  feet,  recovered  from  disease,  are  often  placed 
before  an  image,  in  small  shrines  near  to  the  road  side,  in  the 
defiles  of  mountains,  particularly  in  the  Alps.  The  most 
curious  fact  connected  with  the  practice  is  this,  that  it  is 
much  older  than  the  time  of  Hippocrates.  Such  offerings 
have  been  made  from  time  immemorial  by  the  Hindoos2: 
but  among  the  Greeks,  it  was  customary  to  devote  within 
their  temples  something  more  than  the  mere  symbol  of  a 
benefit  received;  inscriptions  were  added  to  such  signs, 
setting  forth  the  nature  of  the  remedy  that  had  been  suc- 
cessful, or  giving  a  description  of  the  peculiar  grace  that  had 

been 


(1)  Strabon.  Geog.  lib.xlv.  p.Q41.  Oxon.  1807 .  "  Venerem  exeuntem  e  mari 
Divus  Augustus  dicavit  in  delubro  patiis  Caesaris,  quae  Anadyomene  vocatur."  Plin. 
Hist  Nat.  lib.  xxxv.  cap.  10.  L.Bat.  1 035.  The  same  circumstance  is  also  related 
by  Quintilian. 

(2)  The  women,  in  many  parts  of  India,  hang  out  offerings  to  their  Deities;  either 
a  string  of  beads,  or  a  lock  of  hair,  or  some  other  trifling  present,  when  a  child,  or  any 
one  of  their  family,  has  been  recovered  from  illness. 


ISLAND   OF  COS. 


329 


been  accorded5.     In  the  churches  of  the  North  of  Europe,      chap  viil 
and    particularly  in   those  of  Denmark   and   Norway,   the 

traces 


(3)  "  Among  the  remains  of  antiquity  which  offer  themselves  to  the  notice  of  the 
traveller  in  hisjourney  through  Greece  and  Asia,  there  are  some,  hitherto,  not  sufficiently 
regarded:  and  yet  they  are  of  importance,  as  being  connected  with  the  religious  opinions 
of  the  Antients,  and  as  being  prototypes  of  a  custom  existing  at  this  day  in  Christian 
countries.  I  allude  to  the  votive  offerings  which  were  presented  to  some  Deities,  on  the 
restoration  to  health,  after  a  bodily  complaint  or  disease.  The  eyes,  the  feet,  the  hands, 
sometimes*  the  whole  body,  were,  as  soon  as  health  returned  to  the  invalid,  formed  in 
marble,  earthenware,  and  other  materials,  and  offered  to  a  presiding  Deity.  In  Italy, 
and  in  other  Roman-Catholic  countries -f,  this  custom  still  prevails;  and  in  the  Greek 
churches  we  have  witnessed  similar  representations,  in  silver,  wax,  and  other  substances, 
dedicated  to  patron  saints. 

"A  question  here  arises  concerning  the  antiquity  of  this  practice:  In  what  country, 
and  at  what  period,  did  it  first  commence  }  On  these  points  we  are  in  possession  of  an 
authentic  fact,  by  which  we  are  enabled  to  answer,  in  some  degree,  the  question :  at 
least,  we  are  informed  by  it,  that  the  antiquity  of  the  custom  is  great ;  and  that  it  prevailed 
in  the  East,  and  was  thence  probably  introduced  into  Greece. 

"  When  the  Philistines  had  taken  away  the  Ark  of  the  God  of  Israel,  the  hand  of 
the  Lord,  we  read,  was  heavy  upon  them  ;  and  he  smote  them.  When  they  determined 
to  send  back  the  ark,  they  asked  their  priests  what  offering  they  should  make  to  the 
Lord,  that  they  might  be  relieved  from  the  disorder  which  attacked  their  bodies, 
and  from  the  other  calamity,  that  of  mice,  which  destroyed  the  land.  The  priests 
answered,  '  Ye  shall  make  golden  images  of  your  emerods,  and  images  of  your  mice 
'  that  mar  the  land  ;  and  ye  shall  give  glory  unto  the  God  of  Israel ;  peradventure  he  will 
'  lighten  his  hand  from  olf  you.  And  they  did  so;  and  they  laid  the  Ark  of  the  Lord 
'  upon  the  cart,  and  the  coffer  with  the  mice  of  gold,  and  with  the  images  of  their 
'  emerods  J.' 

"This,  we  have  no  doubt,  is  the  earliest  mention  of  the  custom  we  are  considering. 
We  have  observed  at  Phocaea  in  the  antient  Lydia,  at  Eleusis,  at  Athens,  and  other  parts 
of  Greece,  holes  of  a  square  form,  cut  in  the  limestone  rock,  for  the  purpose  of  receiving 

* these 

*  In  the  Island  of  Santorin  there  are  some  singular  representations,  on  the  rock.  Tomasini 
gives  the  votive  figure  of  a  man  in  a  dropsical  state. 

f  "  Ea  quippe  licentia,  (says  Baronius,)  qua  Deorum  deluhra  in  Ecclesias  Christianorum  sunt 
laudabiliter  commutata,  alii  quoque  ritus  a  nobis  benedictionibus  expiati  divino  sunt  cultui 
consecrati." 

t  1  Samuel  vi.  5,  11.  "  Solebant  Veteres,  (says  Bochart,  on  this  passage,)  aliquo  metu  vel 
periculo  defuncti,ipraeteritorum  malorum  insignia  ac  monumenta  illis  Diis  consecrare,  a  quibus 
se  liberatos  putabant."     Hieroz.  lib.  xi.  c,  36. 


VOL.   III. 


2  U 


.^^.^TT^flfTV 


330 

CHAP.  VIII. 


ISLAND   OF   COS. 


traces  of  this  antient  custom  may  yet  be  observed  ;  the  dona 
votiva  being  often  suspended  in  the  form,  of  pictures  repre- 
senting hair-breadth  escapes,  a  deliverance  from  banditti,  or 

a  recovery 


these  votive  offerings :  sometimes  the  offerings  themselves,  eyes,  feet,  hands,  have  been 
discovered.  At  Cyzicum  there  is  a  representation  of  two  feet  on  marble,  with  an 
inscription;  probably  the  vow  of  some  person  who  had  performed  a  prosperous  journey. 
The  same  subject  is  referred  to  in  the  engraving  of  a  tablet  published  by  Tomasini, 
on  which  are  seen  two  feet,  accompanied  with  these  letters,  QVIE  IANAE  H  D, 
shewing  that  it  was  an  offering  by  a  person  of  the  name  of  Jana  to  Hygeia :  and'  if  the 
word  Quie  be  properly  explained',  quiescentis,  the  whole  has  reference,  as  we  have 
observed,  to  a  journey  performed  with  safety. 

"  Women,  after  child-birth,  made  votive  offerings;  and  a  representation  of  the  girdle 
was  consecrated  to  Diana*.  Acuuherus  explains  the  subject  of  a  marble,  in  which  a 
person  of  the  turn i  of  Libmedon  makes  an  offering  to  the  Lochian  Diana,  on  the  safe 
delivery  of  his  wife. 

"  All  these  offerings,  which  were  made  either  during  illness,  or  after  recovery  from 
it,  were  termed  yapiarripia  r>/<;  ffurrfpiac-  the  words  hupov,  ydpicrixa,  dvdBt]p:a, 
were  also  used  :   and  in  Latin,  Dona,  and  Donaria. 

"  As  the  temples  of  Neptune  received  the  votive  tributes  of  those  who  had  escaped 
the  dangers  of  the  sea  ;  so  the  temples  of  iE-culapius  were  adorned  with  tablets  pre- 
sented by  persons  restored  to  health.  Invalids  were  allowed  to  sleep  in  the  porticoes, 
and  the  interior,  of  the  fanes  of  Isis  and  iEsculapius  ;  and  there,  by  the  way  of  dream, 
they  received  advice  concerning  the  remedies  they  should  use  to  procure  their  health. 
'  Julian  (says  an  old  inscription)  vomited  blood  ;  and  was  given  over :  the  God  told 
'  him  to  come  and  take  the  cones  of  a  pine-tree,  and  eat  them,  with  honey,  for  three 
*  days.  He  received  his  health,  and  came  and  returned  thanks  in  the  presence  of  the 
'  people.' 

"  '  Valerius  Aper,  a  soldier,  was  blind.  The  God  told  him  to  take  the  blood  of  a 
'  white  cock;  to  mix  it  with  honey,  and  make  an  ointment  of  it ;  and  apply  it  to  his  eye» 
'  for  three  days.    He  gained  his  sight,  and  came  and  returned  thanks.' 

"  On  these,  and  similar  occasions,  we  must  suppose  the  votive  offerings  were  pre- 
sented;  many  of  which  are  found  in  Greece  and  Asiaf.     They  were  fixed,  as  we  have 

observed,. 

*  Called  Diana  Aurlgawos.  Zonam  solvere,  in  Latin,  has  reference  to  marriage :  among;  the 
Greeks,  it  referred  to  the  birth  of  the  first  child.      Scaliger  on  Catullus. 

f  The  medicine  itself  was  sometimes  placed  in  the  temples  ;  as  in  the  case  of  a  goldsmith,  who. 
on  his  death  bed,  bequeathed  an  ointment  to  a  temple,  which  those  who  were  unable  to  see  tb< 
physicians  might  use. — /Etius,  Tetr.  xi.  Serm.  4. 


ISLAND   OF   COS. 


a  recovery  from  sickness  ;  and  these  pictures  are  frequently 
inscribed  with  the  particulars  of  the  case  thereby  com- 
memorated.    It   was  from  a  list   of  remedies  collected   in 

the 


331 


CHAP.  VIII. 


observed,  sometimes  in  the  rock,  near  the  sacred  precincts  of  a  temple;  sometimes 
appended  to  the  walls  and  columns  of  the  temples :  they  were  fastened  also  by  wax  to 
the  knees,  or  other  parts  of  the  statues  of  the  Gods*. 

"  When  we  say,  that  the  offerings  were  made  in  the  temple  of  Isis,  we  must  under- 
stand, that  the  honour  was  paid  particularly  to  Serapis,  joint-tenant  of  the  temple,  as 
the  God  of  Medicine.  '  Ego  Medicina  a  Serapi  utor,%  says  Varrof.  See  also  Cicero,  in 
his  second  book,  De  Divinat.  Nor  did  those  only  who  recovered  from  illness  pay  their 
votive  tribute  of  gratitude  to  the  Gods;  their  friends  often  united  with  them  in  this  act 
of  devotion. 

"  The  period  of  the  first  introduction  into  the  Christian  church  of  this  custom,  once 
so  prevalent  in  Pagan  Italy  and  Greece,  cannot  be  precisely  fixed.  But  Theodoret, 
one  of  the  Greek  Fathers,  has  a  passage  in  his  Therapeutics  §,  which  attests  the  existence 
of  the  practice,  in  the  fifth  century,  of  Christians  offering,  in  their  churches,  representa- 
tions of  parts  of  the  body  restored  to  health :  '  Some,'  he  says,  '  offer  up  effigies 
'  (cKrvird/j,aTa)  of  eyes;  others,  of  feet;  others,  of  hands;  made  of  gold,  and  silver.' 

"  The  same  spirit  of  religious  feeling  which  prompted  the  Pagans  to  make  the 
offerings  we  have  adverted  to,  urged  them  to  consider  themselves,  in  every  trans- 
action and  situation  of  life,  as  under  the  presiding  care  of  some  Deity;  to  whom,  oonse- 
quently,  some  manifestation  of  gratitude  was  due  in  all  successful  undertakings.  The 
husbandman,  after  the  harvest,  offered  up  his  instruments  of  husbandry ;  poets,  and 
men  of  genius,  consecrated  their  harps,  lyres,  and  volumes,  to  Minerva  and  Apollo ; 
conquerors  presented  some  of  the  spoils  won  in  warll.  The  temples  of  the  Greeks 
were,  we  know,  used  by  different  States,  as  Banks ;  to  this  circumstance  was  owing,  in 
part,  the  vast  wealth  which  they  contained;  and  this  was  increased  by  the  costly 
offerings  t  in  gold  and  silver,  presented  on  various  occasions."     IValpolcs  MS.  Journal. 


*  Juven.  Sat.  x.  54.     Prudent,  contra  Symm.  lib.  i.     Lucian.  Philop. 

f  Turn.  Adv.  lib.  iii.  c.  8.  "  An  /Esculapius,  an  Serapis,  potest  prsscribere  per  somnium 
curationem  valetudiuis."     Cicero  de  Divin. 

§   Lib.  viii. 

||  Of  this  description  \%  the  antiont  Arrive  helmet  found  in  the  alluvial  soil  of  the  Alpheus,  at 
Olvmpia,  by  Mr.  Morritt  ;  now  in  the  possession  of  Mr.  Knight. 

i  One  of  the  most  antient  offerings  in  Greece  was  that  bearing  an  inscription,  in  Cadmean 
letters,  on  a  tripod,  at  Thebes.  Herod-  lib.  v.  p.  400.  ' Kfj.^tr^uuv  ft  uvUwctv  )uv  d.-ro  "X^Xi^oian. 
?*»  is  the  emendation  of  Valguarnera.     via?  is  preferred  by  Villoison,   (Anec.'n.  129.)  with  inttixt. 


332 


ISLAND   OF   COS. 


Singular  part 
of  the  Maho- 
metan Law. 


chap.  viii.  the  temples  that  Hippocrates  of  Cos  framed  a  regular  set 
of  canons  for  the  art  of  medicine,  and  reduced  the  practice 
of  physic  to  a  system1. 

A  remarkable  cause  was  tried  while  we  were  in  Cos  ;  and 
a  statement  of  the  circumstance  on  which  it  was  founded  will 
serve  to  exhibit  a  very  singular  part  of  the  Mahometan  law; 
namely,  that  which  relates  to  "  Homicide  by  implication."  An 
instance  of  a  similar  nature  was  before  noticed,  when  it  was 
related  that  the  Capudan  Pasha  reasoned  with  the  people  of 
Samos  upon  the  propriety  of  their  paying  for  a  Turkish  frigate 
which  was  wrecked  upon  their  territory;  "  because  the  acci- 
dent would  not  have  happened  unless  their  island  had  been  in 
the  way."  This  was  mentioned  as  a  characteristic  feature  of 
Turkish  justice,  and  so  it  really  was;  that  is  to  say,  it  was  a 
sophistical  application  of  a  principle  rigidly  founded  upon  the 
•fifth  species  of  homicide ,  according  to  the  Mahometan  law;  or 
"  Homicide  hy  an  intermediate  cause"  which  is  strictly  the  name 
it  bears9.  The  case  which  occurred  at  Cos  fell  more  imme- 
diately under  the  cognizance  of  this  law.  It  was  as  follows. 
A  young  man  desperately  in  love  with  a  girl  of  Stanchio, 
eagerly  sought  to  marry  her  ;  but  his  proposals  were  re- 
jected. In  consequence  of  his  disappointment,  he  bought 
some  poison  and  destroyed  himself.     The  Turkish  police 

instantly 


(1)  "Tunc  earn  revocavit  in  lucem  Hippocrates,  genitus  in  insula  Coo,  in  primis 
clara  ac  valida,  et  ./Esculapio  dicata.  Is,  cum  fuisset  mos,  liberatos  morbis  scribere  in 
templo  ejus  Dei,  quid  auxiliatum  esset,  ut  postea  similitude-  proficeret,  exscripsisse  ea 
traditur,  atque  (ut  Varro  apnd  nos  credit)  jam  templo  cremate-,  instituisse  medicinam 
banc,  quae  Clinice  vocatur."  Plin.  Hist.  Nat.  I.  xxix.  c.  1.  torn.  III.  p.isy.  L.  Bat.  1635. 

(2)  See  the  communication  made  to  the  author  by  Mr.  Keane,  as  published  in 
Note  (4),  p.  193,  of  the  former  Section.    Second  edition.    Broxb.  1813. 


ISLAND    OF  COS. 


333 


instantly  arrested  the  father  of  the  young  woman,  as  the  chap,  vjii. 
cause,  by  implication,  of  the  man's  death :  under  the  fifth 
species  of  homicide,  he  became  therefore  amenable  for  this 
act  of  suicide.  When  the  cause  came  before  the  Magistrate, 
it  was  urged  literally  by  the  accusers,  that  "  If  he,  the 
accused,  had  not  had  a  daughter,  the  deceased  would  not  have 
fallen  in  love;  consequently  he  ivould  not  have  been  disap- 
pointed; consequently  he  would  not  have  stv allowed  poison ;  con- 
sequently he  would  not  have  died : — but  he,  the  accused,  had  a 
daughter;  and  the  deceased  had  fallen  in  love;  and  had  been 
disappointed;  and  had  sivallowed  poison;  and  had  died." 
Upon  all  these  counts,  he  was  called  upon  to  pay  the  price 
of  the  young  man's  life ;  and  this,  being  fixed  at  the  sum 
of  eighty  piastres,  was  accordingly  exacted. 

The  population  of  Cos  had  much  diminished  of  late  years.  Population, 
There  were  formerly  20,000  inhabitants;  and  of  this 
number  only  eight  or  ten  thousand  now  remained.  Three 
thousand  had  been  carried  off  by  a  severe  plague  the  year 
before  ;  and  great  numbers  had  been  draughted,  to  serve 
as  soldiers  in  the  war.  The  island  contains  five  villages : 
it  produces  corn  and  cattle.  Its  fine  rich  grapes  were  now 
selling  for  less  than  a  halfpenny  the  pound :  pomegranates 
and  melons  were  in  great  abundance,  and  of  delicious 
flavour.  Its  trade  consists  in  the  manufacture  of  barrels,  and 
in  the  sale  of  wine,  brandy,  raisins,  lemon-juice,  preserved 
fruit,  &c.  Corn  sold  for  four  piastres  and  a  half  the  Quilot* : 
the  average  price  was  reckoned  at  seventy  or  eighty  paras. 


commerce, 
and  produce 
of  Cos. 


(3)  The  quilot,  according  to  Tournefort,  is  a  measure  of  three  panaches;  each 
panache  is  eight  oques ;  and  each  oque  is  twenty-five  pounds.  See  Tournef.  Voy.  du 
Lev.  torn.  II.  p.  109.    Lyon,  1717. 


1  Port  ot'Ltv  Scala 

2  Port  of Sapsila 
A  Port  Grieou 
4  Port  Merita 


a    Small  Western  Creek 

6  Port  ofDiacvrti 

7  Monistny  it  Town  !>tPi 

8  Cave  )t' the  Apocuhpsi 


CHAP.  IX. 


W^.* 


CHAP.  IX. 


COS    TO     PATMOS. 

Messenger  from  the  Vizier — Botanical  discoveries  —  Casiot  vessel — 
Antient  custom  of  singing  Vespers — Leria  and  Lepsia — Arrival  at 
Patmos  —  Critical  situation  of  a  part  of  the  French  army  — 
Monastery  of  St.  John  —  Library  —  Ignorance  of  the  Monks  — 
Manuscripts — Discovery  of  the  Patmos  Plato — Other  valuable  Works 
— Manuscript  in  the  hand-writing  of  Alexius  Comnenus — State  of 
the  island — Antient  Medals — Extensive  prospect — Holy  Grotto  — 
Dinner  given  by  the  French  Officers — Barthelemy  —  Women  of  the 
island — Bells — Stratagem  for  obtaining  the  Greek  Manuscripts — 
Fruitless  attempt  to  leave  the  island — View  of  Samos — Icafia — 
Western  port  of  Patmos  —  Geological  phcenome*  a  —  Plants  anc 
animals — Marble  Cippi — Departure  from  Patmos  —  Prognostics 
of  Greek  mariners. 

On   Tuesday,  October  the  sixth,  as  we  were  sitting  with 
the  Governor,  a  Greek  officer  of  the  name  of  Riley,  who  hac 

beer 


ISLAND  OF  COS. 

been  interpreter  to  Colonel,  now  Sir  Charles  Holloway,  in  the 
Turkish  army,  arrived  from  Grand  Cairo  with  dispatches 
from  the  Vizier.  He  brought  letters  for  us  from  England, 
which  had  been  sent  first  to  Constantinople,  and  then  to 
Egypt,  and  yet  reached  us  with  so  recent  a  date  as  the 
twelfth  of  August.  When  he  entered  the  Governor's 
apartment,  we  supposed  him  to  be  a  Turk :  he  wore  the 
Turkish  habit,  and  conversed  with  great  fluency  in  the 
Turkish  language:  presently,  to  our  surprise,  he  addressed  us 
in  English ;  and  afterwards  gave  us  intelligence  of  all  that 
had  happened  at  Cairo  since  we  left  that  city.  A  report 
had  reached  him  after  he  sailed  from  Egypt,  that  the 
Vizier  had  been  ordered  into  exile,  to  Giddah,  where  the 
air  is  supposed  to  be  so  unwholesome,  that  the  punishment 
of  being  banished  thither  is  considered  as  almost  equivalent 
with  death.  Hearing  that  we  intended  to  visit  Patmos, 
he  requested  a  passage  thither  in  our  vessel :  his  wife 
resided  upon  that  island,  and  it  was  his  wish  to  see  her, 
in  his  way  to  Constantinople.  We  readily  acceded  to 
his  proposal;  and  a  very  fortunate  circumstance  it  proved, 
in  the  services  he  rendered  to  us  during  a  negotiation 
with  the  Monks  of  Patmos  for  the  Manuscripts  we  after- 
wards obtained. 

We  employed  the  rest  of  our  time  principally  in  botanical 
excursions,  and  were  very  successful  ;  having  found  no  less 
than  six  non-descript  species:  although,  as  we  mingled  all 
the  specimens  collected  in  this  island  in  March  with  those 
which  we  now  gathered  in  October,  we  cannot  precisely 
state  the  time  when  any  particular   plant  came  into  flower. 

There 


335 


CHAP.  IX. 


Messenger 
from  the 
Vizier. 


Botanical 
Discoveries. 


336 


CHAP.  IX. 


ISLAND  OF  COS. 

There  is,  however,  reason  to  believe  that  they  principally 
belong  to  the  autumnal  season ;  as  our  stay  was  very  short  in 
March,  and  it  was  before  observed  that  the  plants  of  this 
island  had  not  then  attained  a  state  of  maturity1.  According 
to  our  usual  plan,  we  shall  only  refer  the  reader  now  to  the 
new-discovered  species ;  reserving  for  a  general  list,  in  the 
Appendix  to  this  Part  of  our  Travels,  the  names  and  the 
localities  of  others,  whether  rare  or  common,  which  pre- 
ceding authors  have  already  described*. 

On 


(1)  See  Chap.  VII.  of  the  former  Section,  p.  205. 

(2)  I.  A  very  curious  small  species  of  Plantain  (Plantago  Linn.),  of  which  there  is  ;a 
figure  and  description  in  Clusius's  "  Plantarum  Rariorum  Historia,"  lib.  v.  cap.  1(5. 
under  the  name  of  Catanance  prima  Dioscoridis ;  but  this  has  been  omitted 
by  Linnaeus,  and  by  all  the  editors  of  his  works.  The  whole  plant  is  scarcely  an 
inch  and  a  half  in  height ;  its  leaves  are  of  a  narrow  lance-shape,  and  ciliated  ; 
the  flowers  in  little  round  upright  heads;  and  these,  together  with  the  short 
stalks  supporting  them,  are  clothed  with  long  soft  wool.  The  species  ought  to 
be  arranged  near  the  Cretan  Plantain  (Planlago  Cretica),  to  which  it  is  nearly 
allied  ;  but  it  may  be  easily  distinguished,  either  by  the  leaves,  or  by  the  heads  of 
the  flowers.  We  have  called  it  Plantago  Catananche.  Planlago  foliis 
lanceolato-linearihus ,  ciliatis,  pilosis;  spied  subrotundd  erecid,  scapo  brevissimo 
bracteisque  lanatis.  Catanance  prima  Dioscoridis.  Clus.  Plant.  Rar.  Hist.  2. 
p.  112.  cum  tabula. 

II.  A  non-descript  species  of  Crow-foot  Ranunculus,  with  slender  erect  unbranched 
stems,  and  single  flowers.  We  have  called  it  Ranunculus  gracilis.  Ranun- 
culus caule  simplici,  gracili,  erecto:  foliis  radicalibus  quinquepartitis  tripartitisque, 
laciniis  flab  ellif or  mibus  sinuato-dentatis ;  caulinis  multipartitis  laciniis  sublinearibus, 
glabris.  Radices  tuberoses,  fasciculatce.  Folia  radicalia  circumscriptione  cordato 
subrotundd,  diametro  pollicario  vel  parum  ultra ;  petioli  longi,  pilosi :  folia 
caulina  duo  seu  tres  sessilia,  superiora  subtrifda.  Caulis  pedalis,  teres,  pubescens. 
Calyx  glaber,  reflexus.  Corolla  magnitudine  R.  repentis,  flavd.  Petala  obovata. 
III.  An  elegant  non-descript  species  of  Trefoil,  (Trifolium  Linn.)  This  we  have 
named  Trifolium  ornatum.  Trifolium  annuum,  caulibus  ramosis  sub-erectis. 
foliolis  obovatis  argutissime  serratis,  mucronalis,  glabris ;  stipulis  opposilis ;  spicis 

terminalibus, 


ISLAND  OF  COS. 


337 


On  Wednesday,   October   the   seventh,   our  interpreter, 
Antonio,  returned  from  Budrun  with  the  Governor's  chiaoux, 

in 


chap.  IX. 


terminalibus ,  solitariis,  subrotundis,  last  bracteatis,  apice  sterilibus ;  bracteis 
suboctonis,  calycis  dentibus  subulatis  cequalilus.  Caules  striatl  pilosi.  Folia 
striata  vix  semipollicaria,  summa  opposita.  Petioli  partiale*  ciliali,  i '  revissimi. 
Spicce  pedunculated  foliis  breviores.  Bractitc  subcordato-ovatce,  nitidce.  Calyx 
corolla  dimidio  brevior,  basin  versus  pilosus. 

IV.  A  non-descript  herbaceous  Milk-wort  (Polygala  Linn.)  with  racemes  of  pale  blue 
flowers.  We  have  called  it  Polygala  adscendens.  Poly  gala  Jlorib  us  cristatis, 
racemis  axillaribus ,  pedunculatis  ;  aliis  calycinis  corolla  breviorilus  obiusis  nervosis ; 
caulibus  herbaceis  adscendentibus ;  foliis  lanceolatis  acutis,  inferioribus  obovalis 
ohtusis.  Caules  quinque  ad  octo  pollices  longi,  parum  ramosi.  Folia  minute 
villosa,  lineas  quinque  ad  septem  longa,  inferiora  gradatim  breviora  et  obtusiora. 
Racemi  bracteati  sex  ad  decemjlori.  Bractece  pedicellis  longiores,  lanceolatce ,  mox 
deciduce.  Flores  P.  Sibiricae  duplb  jnajores,  coerulei. 
V.  A  non-descript  species  of  Hartwort,  (Tordylium  Linn.)  about  a  span  in  height, 
with  leaflets  notched  at  the  base,  and  rounded  above  with  a  few  blunt  teeth  on 
their  margin.  The  Tordylium  humile  of  Mons.  Desfontaines  is  the  species  which 
it  most  resembles  ;  but  from  this  it  dirlers,  in  not  having  the  leaflets  lobed,  and 
by  its  flowers,  which  are  four  times  as  large  as  in  that  species.  We  have  called 
it  Tordylium  insulare.  Tordylium  foliis  pinnatis,  foliis  cordato-subreniformibus 
inciso-dentatis,  petiolis  pilosis;  involucri  folio/is  subulatis  brevibus  subguinis ; 
involucelli  laciniis  ciliatis  pedicellos  excedentibus ;  jloribus  majusculis ;  seminibus 
crenulatis. 

VI.  A  very  showy  non-descript  species  of  Allium  ;  varying  from  about  ten  inches  to 
above  two  feet  in  height ;  the  leaves  very  thin  and  delicate,  streaked  with  about 
twenty  parallel  lines,  and  finely  fringed  ;  their  breadth  from  about  half  an  inch  to 
three  quarters  ;  the  umbel  of  the  flowers  straight  3  nearly  hemispherical,  with  the 
number  of  rays  varying  from  eight  to  about  twenty,  according  to  the  size  and 
vigour  of  the  plants  3  the  petals  nearly  oval,  white.  We  have  called  it  Allium 
pulchrum.  Allium  caule  angulato,  basifolioso,  foliis  caule  brevioribus  lanceolcto- 
oblongis,  sub-planis,  margine  brevissime  ciliatis ;  umbella  laxa  liemispluericd ; 
petalis  ovalibus  staminibus  simplicibus  longioribus,  majusculis ;  spatha  monophylld 
ventricosd  acunnnalo-subrotundd.  This  species  is  allied  to  the  Allium  Neapolitanum 
of  Cyrilli ;  to  the  Allium  subhirsutum  of  Linnaeus ;  and  to  the  Allium  ciliatum 
of  Curtis  and  Sims.  From  the  first  it  differs  in  the  form  of  the  umbel,  which  at 
once  distinguishes  it  :  from  the  two  last  the  difference  consists  in  the  form  of  the 
leaves,  the  few  rays  which  are  found  in  the  umbel,  the  simple  sheath,  and  the 
lame  blossoms. 


VOL.   III. 


2  X 


i^v'-V-Tv^VN^'v-rH-V''^-,1  y?^v.N^^*fV>  ■^M/^Ys'ffcW.  *T» 


338  '  .       COS    TO   PATMOS. 

chap.  ix.      in  a  small  caique,  manned  by  a  single  family  of  the  Island 
casiot vessel,     of    Casos,    consisting    of    four    individuals ;    viz.    a   young 
widower,  his  son,  his  brother,  and  a  very  oid  man  his  uncle. 
Antonio  had  found  no  vessel  that  would  suit  us  in  the  port  of 
Budrun ;  and  was  returning  in  the  open  boat  which  conveyed 
him,  when,   coming  from  the  harbour,  he  beheld  the  Casiot 
bark,   coasting  slowly  eastward,  and  within  hail.     Having 
boarded  this  vessel,  he  found  that  it  was  empty,   returning 
to  Casos  for  want  of  a  freight.     He  easily  prevailed  upon  the 
poor  Casiots   to   steer  for   Stanchio,   in   the  hope  of  being 
hired  by  us,  and  we  very  gladly  availed  ourselves  of  the 
opportunity.    The  vessel  was  old,  and  the  large   triangular 
sails  were  tattered  and  rotten.      It   was,   in  fact,    nothing 
more  than  an  open  boat;  a  man  of  middle  stature,  standing 
in    the    hatchway  with  his  feet  in  the  hold,  had    at    least 
the  half  of  his  body  above   the  deck :     it   was   impossible 
therefore   to   contrive  any  thing  like  a  cabin  in  which   to 
stand  upright;  but  by  clearing  and  cleansing  this  place,  we 
found  we  could   obtain  a  shelter  for  the  night,  and  during 
the  day  we  should  of  course  prefer  being  upon  the   deck. 
Landsmen  in  harbour,   especially  during  fine  weather,  are 
.  easily  reconciled  to  all  chances  in  preparing  to  go   to  sea : 
without  further  consideration,  we   hired  this  vessel,  at  the 
rate  of  four  hundred  and  fifty  piastres  per  month,  engaging 
to  find  our  own  provisions,  and  having  the  crew  to  provide 
for  themselves.     They  fell  to  work  briskly,  preparing  their 
vessel  for  our  reception  ;  and  by  the  next  evening,  at  sunset, 
having  every  thing  necessary  on  board,  we  were  desired  to 
embark.     Mr.   Riley  went   with    us    to   take  leave  of  the 

Governor, 


COS    TO    PATMOS.  339 

Governor,  from  whom  we  had  experienced  great  kindness    tCHAP.  ix. 

and    civility:    the  Greek   Bishop,    and   the   worthy   French 

Consul,  accompanying  us  to  the  shore,  and  taking  leave  of  us 

upon  the  deck  of  our  little  bark.    At  eight  o'clock  we  were 

under  weigh  :  a  land  breeze  drove  us  smoothly  along;  and 

the  Casiots  began  their  evening  hymn.    This  reminded  us  of    Antient 

.  Custom  of 

a  passage  in  Lo??gus  ,  who,  in  the  very  seas  we  were  now 
traversing,  describes  a  similar  custom :  "  While  they  rowed, 
"  one  of  the  crew  sang  to  them ;  the  rest,  as  a  chorus,  at  inter* 
"  vols  joined  ivith  him*."  The  Venetian  sailors  have  a  hymn 
which  they  sing  exactly  after  the  same  manner,  the  crew 
being  all  upon  deck  at  the  time,  and  upon  their  knees3. 
It  is,  in  fact,  a  very  antient  custom,  and  it  is  still  common 
all  over  the  Mediterranean. 

The 


singing 
Vespers. 


(1)  Longus,    lib.  Hi.    Paris,  1778. 

(2)  Ol  Be  Xoirroi,  Kaddmp  ^opo<;,    6/j.0([>g)i>ch- 

Kara  Kaipov  r>;c   eksipov    (JHovr/c  cfiouv.  Ibid. 

(3)  We  have  preserved  the  words  of  a  Venetian  Hymn,  as  we  heard  it  sung  every 
evening,  when  the  weather  permitted,  in  the  Black  Sea,  on  board  the  Venetian  brig  in 
which  we  sailed  from  Russia  for  Constantinople  : 

"  O  santa  Barbara,  nostra  avocata ! 
Che  sei  inadre  de  la  Maria, 
Questa  nave,  i'artilleria, 
Sempre  da  voi  lascia  guardata  ! 

Chor.         O  Santa  Barbara  .'  ifc. 

"  O  santissinio  Sacramento  ! 

Jesu  Christo,  nostro  signore  ! 
Qui  ehe  guarda  tutti  l'hore ! 
Qui  che  salva  ogni  moraento  ! 

Ciiok.  O  Santissimo .'  Sfc." 


340 


CHAP.  IX. 
Leria. 


COS   TO   PATMOS. 

The  next  morning,  October  the  ninth,  we  found  ourselves 

to  be  opposite  to  the  small  Isle  of  Leria,   bearing  s.  w.  and 

by  w.  distant  eight  miles,  the  wind  being  tranquil,  and  the 

sea  calm1.     We   saw  the  monastery  and  town  of  Lera,  as 

it  is  now  called. 

This   little  island  has  three  harbours,  and  it  is  said  by 

Dapper    to    produce   abundance   of  the  wood   of  aloes,  so 

much  esteemed  in  Turkey  as  a  perfume2.    Dapper's  assertion 

may  be  doubted ;  for  the   enormous  price  of  this   wood  at 

Constantinople  seems  to  prove  that  it  is  not  found  abundantly 

anvwhere  so  near  to  that  city.    The  character  of  the  antient 

inhabitants  of  Leria,  who  were  originally  a  Milesian  colony', 

gave  rise  to  the  very  antient  epigram  of  Phocylides,  so  often 

in  after  ages  parodied  and  imitated,  but  perhaps   never  with 

more  success  than  by  our  illustrious  countryman,  Porson4: 

Ka)  roos  t&axvXidiaj'    A&gioi  Kattoi'    a^  o  y^v,  og  o  ov' 

Ylccvreg,   tXtji*  UgoxXexg'   xai  W^oTtXirig  Aegiog. 

At 

(1)  "Lera  is  nine  leagues  n.w.  and  by  w.  from  Slanchio."    Perry's  View  of  the 
Othoman  Empire,  p.  482.     Lond.  1743. 

(2)  Dapper  Description  des  Isles  de  l'Archipel.  p.  183.     Amst.  1703. 

(3)  Strabon.  Geog.  lib.xiv.  p.  910.    Oxon.  I8O7.     Strabo  writes  the  name  of  this; 
island  both  Aipiu  and  Aepos. 

(4)  In  the  following  Epigram  upon  the  Greek  scholars  of  Germany,  which  the; 
author  has  transcribed  from  his  own  hand-writing. 

Kr/iSec  ec-re  fierpuifj,    u>  leuToyt c,   oux  5  Mf(J>   *oc  8'  o J' 
ria'/zTec,  7r\i;v    CPMANNOC    o   £'  tzpnappoc   c<p6£pa  Ttiiruip. 

The  Germans  in  Greek 
Are  sadly  to  seek, 
Not  five  in  five  score, 
But  ninety-five  more  : 
All,  save  only  Herman, 
And  Herntaii's  a  German. 


ISLAND   OF   PATMOS. 


341 


CHAP.  IX. 


Patmos. 


At  half  past  eight  a.  m.  we  made  the  Island  of  Patmos5; 
and  afterwards  passing  between  Leria  and  Lcpsia,  Samos 
appeared  most  beautifully  in  view,  covered  by  a  silvery 
mist,  softening  every  object,  but  concealing  none.  Lcpsia 
is  now  called  Lipso.  At  eleven  o'clock  a.m.  we  entered 
the  port  of  La  Scala6,  in  Patmos.  We  were  surprised  by  Arrival  at 
meeting  several  boats  filled  with  French  soldiers,  fishing. 
In  order  to  prevent  our  caique  from  being  fired  at,  as  a 
pirate  vessel  (which  she  much  resembled,  and  probably 
had  been),  we  had  hoisted  an  English  flag  given  to  us  by 
Captain  Clarke,  and  recommended  for  our  use  in  the  Archi- 
pelago. The  Frenchmen,  seeing  this  proud  distinction  upon 
our  humble  skiff,  called  out,  by  way  of  taunt,  "  fbila  un  beau 
venez-y  voir!  Le  Pavilion  Anglois !  Trcmblez  Messieurs  /" 
They  were  much  too  numerous  to  venture  a  reply,  if  we  had 
been  so  disposed  ;  and  as  soon  as  we  landed,  we  found  the 
quay  covered  with  French  privates,  among  whom  were  some 
of  the  inferior  officers  of  the  French  army.  These  men  were 
a  part  of  the  army  which  had  surrendered  to  our  troops  in 
Egypt,  on  their  passage  to  France.  The  transport  hired  for 
their  conveyance  was  commanded  by  an  Algerine :  this 
man  had  put  into  Patmos,  under  the  pretence  of  careening  his 
vessel ;  saying  that  it  was  unsafe  to  continue  the  voyage  until 
this   had   been  done;    but  it   was   feared  that  he  intended 

to 


(5)  "  Patmos  is  six  leagues  from  Lera,  n.  w.  by  n."  Perry's  View  of  the  Levant, 
p.  483.    Lond.  1743. 

(6)  Dapper  says  it  received  the  name  of  La  Scala  from  the  quay  which  has  been 
constructed  here;  but  it  may  have  been  so  called  from  the  steep  ascent  to  the  monastery 
which  begins  at  the  landing-place  of  this  harbour. 


-Jp;/-.J  I  ■  ■ 


342 


CHAP.  IX. 


Critical  situa- 
tion of  a  part 
of  the  French 
armv. 


ISLAND    OF    PATMOS. 

to  seize  an  opportunity,  after  landing  these  Frenchmen, 
to  escape  with  the  ship  and  all  the  booty  on  board. 
We  had  been  but  a  short  time  on  shore,  when  a  petition 
was  brought  to  us  signed  by  the  French  officers,  stating 
their  fears,  and  begging  that  we  would  represent  their  case  to 
our  Minister  at  Constantinople.  They  said  they  had  already 
removed  their  trunks,  and  were  resolved  to  return  no  more 
on  board  the  Algerine  ;  the  rascally  Captain  having  twice 
attempted  to  poison  their  food.  All  this  was  uttered  in  a 
very  different  sort  of  tone  from  that  in  which  we  had 
been  hailed  upon  our  coming  into  the  harbour,  and  we 
entered  warmly  into  their  cause.  Their  situation  was,  to 
be  sure,  critical.  They  had  property  belonging  to  some  of 
the  French  Generals,  besides  their  own  effects  ;  and  all  the 
cases  containing  these  things  were  lying  upon  the  open  quay. 
They  were  forced  to  appoint  a  regular  guard,  day  and  night; 
hourly  dreading,  as  they  told  us,  a  visit  from  some  of  the 
numerous  pirates  which  swarm  around  Patmos1:  besides  all 
this,  the  mutinous  behaviour  of  their  own  men  made  it 
impossible  for  them  to  rely  even  upon  the  sentinels  set  over 
the  baggage,  for  they  were  constantly  in  a  state  of  intoxication 
with  the  wine  of  the  island.  As  Mr.  Riley  was  going  to 
Constantinople,  we  wrote  to  the  British  Ambassador,  briefly 
explaining  the  event  that  had  taken  place :  and  our  letter, 

as 


(1)  Patmos  has  always  been  exposed  to  the  attacks  of  pirates.  Tournefort  relates, 
that  the  town  was  formerly  in  the  port  of  La  Scala  ;  hut  that  the  pirates  compelled  it> 
inhabitants  to  abandon  it,  and  to  retire  to  the  heights  where  it  is  now  situated,  close  to 
ihe  Monastery  of  St.  John. 


ISLAND   OF   PATMOS. 


343 


as  we   were  afterwards  told,  procured  them  another  ship. 
In  the  mean  time,  it  was  necessary  to  take  some  immediate 
step  for  the   security  of  their  baggage.     For   this   purpose 
we    proposed   making  an  application  to  the   monks  of  the 
Monastery  of  the  Apocalypse,  which  is  situated  two  miles  and  a 
half  from  the  quay,  upon  the  top  of  a  mountain,  in  the  highest 
part  of  all  the  island,   close  to  the  town  of  Patmos.     Here 
it  mio-ht  be  secure  from  pirates  ;  for  the  building  is  strongly 
fortified,  and  it  is  proof  against  any  attack  of  that  nature2. 
A  commissary  of  the  French  army  proposed  to  accompany  us 
upon  this  expedition  ;  and,  as  the  plan  was  highly  approved, 
we  set  off  without  further  delay  for  the  Convent.     The  ascent 
is  steep  and  rugged,  but  practicable  for  asses  and  mules ;  and 
upon  the  backs  of  these  animals  we  proposed  to  convey  the 
trunks.     When  we  arrived  at  the  Monastery,  we  were  quite 
struck  by  its  size  and  substantial  appearance.     It  is  a  very 
powerful  fortress,  built  upon  a  steep  rock,  with  several  towers 
and  lofty  thick  walls  ;  and  if  duly  mounted  with  guns,  might 
be  made  impregnable.     According  to  Tournefort,  it  is  said 
to  have  been  founded  by  Alexius  Comnenus,  in  consequence 
of  the  persuasion  of  St.  Christodulus3;  but  Dapper  relates, 
that   the    saint    himself    founded    the    Monastery,    having 

obtained 


CHAP  IX. 


Monastery  of 
St.  John. 


(2)  "  Palmosa,  Patmo  anticamente  detta,  insula  pesta  nell'Arcipelago :  sopra 
loqnale :  S.  Joannis  Evangelista  scrisse  il  sacro  Apocalypsi :  essendo  stato  ma'ndato  in 
exilio  da  Domitiano  Imperat.  In  memoria  delquale,  un  bellissimo  Monasterio  del  suo 
nome,  da  suui  Discipoli  fu  fabricate) :  et  da  caloiri  hora  habitato :  conservnndosi  da 
corsari  essere  otfeso."  Martin.  Cms.  Turco-Grcecia,  lib.  iv.  p.  302.  Annot.  Epist. 
Macar.  Basil,  sine  anno. 

(3)  Voyage  du  Levant,  torn.  II.  p.  141.    Lyon,  1717- 


344  ISLAND  OF   PATMOS. 

v  CHAPIX-/  obtained  permission  to  this  effect  from  Alexius,  towards  ttie 
end  of  the  tenth  century,  when  he  retired  to  Patmos,  to 
avoid  the  persecution  of  the  Turks1.  St.  Christodulus  had 
been  Abbot  of  Latros,  a  day  and  a  half's  journey  from 
Ephesus,  where  he  presided  over  twenty  convents2.  We 
were  received  by  the  Superior  and  by  the  Bursar  of  the 
Monastery,  in  the  Refectory.  Having  made  known  the  cause 
of  our  coming,  we  presented  to  them  our  circular  letter 
from  the  Capudan  Pasha:  this  being  written  in  Turkish, 
was  interpreted  by  Mr.  Riley.  After  a  short  consultation, 
they  acquiesced  in  the  proposal  made  for  the  French  officers  ; 
and  agreed  to  receive  the  whole  of  the  baggage  at  the  quay, 
within  their  walls ;  also  a  single  officer  to  superintend  the 
care  of  it,  until  a  vessel  should  arrive  from  Constantinople, 
or  from  Smyrna,  for  its  removal.  This  business  being 
settled,  we  asked,  permission  to  see  the  Library,  which 
was  readily  granted ;  and  while  the  French  Commissary 
went  into  the  town  to  hire  some  mules,  the  two  Caloyers,  by 
whom  we  had  been  received,  conducted  us  thither. 
Library.  ^e  entered  a  small   oblong  chamber,   having  a  vaulted 

stone  roof;  and  found  it  to  be  nearly  filled  with  books,  of 
all  sizes,  in  a  most  neglected  state ;  some  lying  upon  the 
floor,  a  prey  to  the  damp  and  to  worms ;  others  standing 
upon  shelves,  but  without  any  kind  of  order.  The 
books  upon  the  shelves  were  all  printed  volumes ;  for 
these,   being   more    modern,    were    regarded   as    the    more 

valuable, 

(1)  Dapper.  Descr.  des  Isles  de  l'Archipel.  p.  181.    Arnst.  1/03. 

(2)  Ibid. 


ISLAND    OF   PATMOS. 


345 


CHAP.  IX. 


valuable,  and  had  a  better  station  assigned  them  than  the  rest, 
many  of  which  were  considered  only  as  so  much  rubbish. 
Some  of  the  printed  books  were  tolerably  well  bound,  and  in 
good  condition.  The  Superior  said  they  were  his  favourites; 
but  when  we  took  down  one  or  two  of  them  to  examine  their 
contents,  we  discovered  that  neither  the   Superior  nor  his     ^""ceor 

the  Monks. 

colleague  were  able  to  read3.  They  had  a  confused  tradi- 
tionary recollection  of  the  names  of  some  of  them,  but  knew 
no  more  of  their  contents  than  the  Grand  Signiqr.  We  saw 
here  the  first  edition  of  the  Anthologia,  in  quarto,  printed  at 
Florence,  in  capital  letters,  a.d.  mccccxciv.  a  beautiful  copy. 
At  the  extremity  of  this  chamber,  which  is  opposite  to 
the  window,  a  considerable  number  of  old  volumes  of 
parchment,  some  with  covers  and  some  without,  were 
heaped  upon  the  floor  in  the  utmost  disorder;  and  there 
were  evident  proofs  that  these  had  been  cast  aside,  and  con- 
demned to  answer  any  purpose  for  which  the  parchment 
might  be  required.  When  we  asked  the  Superior  what  they 
were  ?  he  replied,  turning  up  his  nose  with  an  expression  of 
indifference  and  contempt,  XeigoygaQu !  It  was  indeed  a  Manuscripts, 
moment  in  which  a  literary  traveller  might  be  supposed  to 
doubt   the  evidence   of  his    senses,  for  the  whole  of  this 

contemned 


(3)  Mons.  De  Choiseul-Gouffier  (Voyage  Pittoresque  de  la  Grece,  torn.  I.  p.  103.) 
found  only  three  monks  in  Patrnos  who  knew  how  to  read.  Sonnini  speaks  of  their 
extraordinary  ignorance  ;  but  he  is  mistaken  when  he  affirms  that  they  have  no  library. 
"  There  is  no  library,"  says  he,  "  in  the  Convent:  and  of  what  utility  would  it  be  among 
people  who,  for  the  most  part,  cannot  read."  See  Sonnini's  Travels  in  Greece,  &c 
ch.  36.  p.  473.     Lond.  1801. 


VOL.   III. 


2  Y 


346 


CHAP.  IX. 


ISLAND   OF  PATMOS. 

contemned  heap  consisted  entirely  of  Greek  manuscripts,  and 
some  of  them  were  of  the  highest  antiquity.  We  sought  in 
vain  for  the  Manuscript  of  Homer,  said  to  have  been  copied 
by  a  student  from  Cos,  and  alluded  to  upon  a  former  occa- 
sion l.  We  even  ventured  to  ask  the  ignorant  monks,  if  they 
had  ever  heard  of  the  existence  of  such  a  relique  in  their 
library.  The  Bursar2 maintained  that  he  had,  and  that  he 
should  know  the   Manuscript  if  he  saw  it3.     Presently  he 

produced 


(1)  See  the  former  Section,  Chap.  XI.  p.  210. 

(2)  Paul  Ricaut  has  well  described  the  state  in  which  we  found  the  Patmos 
Library  j  and  also  mentions  this  office  of  Bursar,  whose  business  it  is  to  take  care  of 
the  books.  "  Every  monastery  hath  its  library  of  books,  which  are  kept  in  a  lofty 
tower  under  the  custody  of  one  whom  they  call  lKevotj)v\aKa,  who  is  also  their 
steward,  receives  their  money,  and  renders  an  account  of  all  their  expenses  :  but  we 
must  not  imagine  that  these  libraries  are  conserved  in  that  order  as  ours  are  in  the 
Darts  of  Christendom  ;  that  they  are  ranked  and  compiled  in  method  on  shelves,  with 
labels  of  the  contents ;  or  that  they  are  brushed  and  kept  clean,  like  the  libraries  of  our 
Colleges :  but  they  are  piled  one  on  the  other,  without  order  or  method,  covered  with 
dust,  and  exposed  to  the  worm."  Ricaut's  State  of  the  Greek  and  Armenian  Churches, 
p.  260.    Lond.  1679. 

(3)  This  Manuscript  was  afterwards  discovered  by  Mr.  Walpole  in  the  hands  of 
a  schoolmaster,  at  the  Grotto  of  the  Apocalypse,  below  the  Monastery.  Mr.  Walpole's 
observations  upon  this  Library  are  particularly  interesting  5  because  they  prove  that  one 
of  the  Manuscripts  brought  away  by  the  author  was  known  to  Villoison  ;  and  that  the 
removal  of  the  rest  had  excited  some  sensation  in  Greece,  as  appears  by  the  inscription 
over  the  door. 

"  There  was  at  Patmos,  for  many  years,  a  school  frequented  by  the  modern  Greeks, 

which  possessed   a  higher  reputation  than  any  other  in  the  Levant.     This  has  now 

yielded  the  pre-eminence  to  one  established  at  Kidoniais,  near  Smyrna.     A  Greek  in 

the  Island  of  Antiparos,  who  accompanied  us  to  the  grotto  there,  told  me  he  had  been 

educated  at  Patmos  j  and  repeated    to   me   the   beginning   of  the  Romance  of  the 

JEthiopics  of  Heliodorus.     During  our  stay  at  Patmos  we  visited  the  lower  Monastery, 

where  the  grotto  is  shewn  in  which    St.  John  wrote  the  Apocalypse;    it  is  called 

QeooKryvofrri.     Here   is  also  a  small  school:    we  found    the    schoolmaster   reading   a 

manuscript  Homer,  with  some  notes ;  it  was  written  on  paper ;  and  did  not  appear  ot 

great  date.  m, 

*  "  The 


ISLAND   OF   PATMOS. 

produced  from  the  heap  the  volume  he  pretended  to  recog- 
nise: it  was  a  copy  of  the  Poems  of  Gregory  of  Nazianzen, 
written  upon  vellum,  evidently  as  old  as  the  ninth  century. 
The  cover  and  some  of  the  outer  leaves  had  been  torn  off; 
but   the    rest   was   perfect.       The  ink  had  become  red ;  a 

circumstance 


"  The  Monastery  on  the  summit  of  the  island  is  a  very  handsome  building :  from 
it,  we  had  a  most  extensive  view  over  the  Archipelago,  and  some  of  the  Greek  islands. 
In  the  two  visits  I  made  to  Patmos,  I  was  not  permitted  to  examine,  as  I  wished,  the 
collection  of  books  and  papers  in  the  Library  of  the  Monastery  of  St.  John.  There  was 
no  Greek  in  the  place  from  whom  I  could  obtain  any  satisfactory  information.  On  the 
shelves,  in  compartments,  are  arranged  Theological  works  :  these  Villoison,  in  his  visit 
to  the  island,  found  less  injured  than  the  manuscripts  of  classical  writers.  The  monks 
told  him,  that, twenty  years  before  his  arrival,  they  had  burnt  from  two  to  three  thousand 
manuscripts ;  duo  vel  tria  millia  circiter  codicum  comlwssisse.  Of  these  reliquice 
Danaum,  a  copy  of  the  Lexicon  of  Cyrill  had  escaped  the  flames,  and  was  preserved 
by  the  Abbot. 

"  On  one  side  of  the  Library  is  a  confused  heap  of  what  appears,  for  the  most  part, 
to  be  manuscript,  consisting  both  of  vellum  and  paper.  Here,  if  an  accurate  search 
were  made,  might  be  found  probably  many  literary  fragments  of  importance.  Over 
the  door  of  the  Library  are  the  following  lines ;  intended,  doubtless,  for  hexameter  verses : 
they  were  placed  there,  as  the  date  informs  us,  in  1802. 

Aevp',  "Ayep,  keivtcu  oaai   (batival  y^tipoypatboi  /3</3\o«, 
'AvSpl  pu  (j)cprtpat  itivvtu  yjpvalov  SoKtovcrai' 
Tour  dpa  Ttjpee  (pv\a^  trtio  fxaXKov  fitoroio, 
Tgji>   cjo'jUOc  ovvEKa   oe   vvv   roc   yiva.ro  <p£yyo'/3o\oc  y£. 
brl    ETOVS    A«/)'    Mtjvoi;  A.VyOV(TTOV. 

"  In  this  place  are  lying  whatever  manuscripts  there  are  of  note  :    MORE 

ESTIMABLE  ARE  THEY  TO  A  WISE  MAN  THAN  GOLD  :  GUARD  THEM,  THEREFORE, 
WATCHFULLY,  MORE  THAN  YOUR  LIFE;  FOR  ON  THEIR  ACtOUNT  IS  THIS  MONASTERY 
NOW    BECOME    CONSPICUOUS. In    THE    MONTH    AUGUST,    THE    YEAR     1802." 

JValpole's  MS.  Journal. 

The  inscription  over  the  door  of  the  Library  has  been  added  since  the  author's  visit; 

and  the  Lexicon  of  Cyrill,  mentioned   by  Villoison,  is  the  identical  Codex  he  bought  of 

the  Superior,  and  brought  away.     For  a  more  detailed  account  of  the  MSS.  of  Greece, 

the  Reader  is  referred  to  some  remarks  by  Mr.  Walpole,  in  the  beginning  of  this  Section. 


K.V— X4  -^•1*-v4r-\  -£*■.  !»;■•  iv^it  ■ 


^,»3rt^Kv»irt,7..ir>^ir.-w.-ii«i*rs*-i.jff.^-,X'<»»r.-'  .**■'»->«*;,< 


348 


CHAP.  IX. 


Discovery  of 
the  Patmot 
Plato. 


ISLAND   OF   PATMOS. 

circumstance  alluded  to  by  Montfaucon  in  ascertaining  the 
age  of  Greek  Manuscripts ;  and  the  writing  throughout 
matnifested  an  equal  degree  of  antiquity1.  What  was  to  be 
done?  To  betray  any  extraordinary  desire  to  get  possession 
of  these  treasures  would  inevitably  prevent  all  possibility  of 
obtaining  any  of  them.  We  referred  the  matter  to  Mr.  Riley, 
as  to  a  person  habituated  in  dealing  with  knavish  Greeks ; 
and  presently  such  a  jabbering  took  place,  accompanied 
with  so  many  significant  shrugs,  winks,  nods,  and  grimaces, 
that  it  was  plain  something  like  a  negotiation  was  going 
on.  The  author,  meanwhile,  continued  to  inspect  the  heap  ; 
and  had  soon  selected  the  fairest  specimen  of  Grecian  calli- 
graphy which  has  descended  to  modern  times.  It  was  a 
copy  of  the  twenty-four  first  Dialogues  of  Plato,  written 
throughout  upon  vellum,  in  the  same  exquisite  character, 
concluding  with  a  date,  and  the  name  of  the  calligraphist. 
The  whole  of  this  could  not  be  ascertained  at  the  instant'2. 

It 

(1)  "  Quod  autem  jam  in  vetustioribus  manuscripts  Graecis  conspicimus  atramentum, 
a  prisco  nigrore  multum  recessit :  nee  tamen  omnino  flavum  languidumque  evasit ;  sed 
fulvum  rutilumque  manet,  ut  persaepe  a  minii  colore  non  multum  recedat.  Id  autem 
observes  in  Codicibus  permultis  a  quarto  ad  duodecimum  usque  saeculum."  Montfaucon. 
Palceog.  Grcec.  lib.i.  c.  1.  p.  2.     Paris,  1708. 

(2)  This  Manuscript,  after  the  author's  return  to  England,  remained  in  the  hands 
of  his  friend,  the  late  Professor  Porson,  until  his  death.  It  is  now,  with  the  other  MSS. 
from  Patmos,  8cc.  in  the  Bodleian  Library  at  Oxford.  For  further  particulars  concerning 
it,  the  reader  is  therefore  referred  to  the  Catalogue  of  all  the  MSS.  brought  from 
Greece  by  the  author,  written  by  the  celebrated  Professor  Gaisford,  and  printed  at  the 
Clarendon  Press  in  1812;  a  work  which  has  impressed  every  scholar  with  the  most 
profound  admiration  of  the  writer's  learning  and  great  critical  acumen.  Reference  may 
also  be  made  to  the  observations  of  one,  who  could  best  have  appretiated  Professor 
Gaisford's  surprising  talents;  namely,  of  the  illustrious  Porson  himself;  as  they  are 
now  published  in  his  Adversaria,  by  his  successor  Professor  Monk,  and  the  Rev.  Charles 

Blomfield : 


ISLAND   OF  PATMOS. 


349 


It  was  a  single  volume  in  folio,  bound  in  wood.  The  cover  ^hap.ix. 
was  full  of  worms,  and  falling  to  pieces :  a  paper  label 
appeared  at  the  back,  inscribed,  in  a  modern  hand,  AtuXoyoi 
^■jjKidrovg :  but  the  letters  of  Plato's  name,  separated  by 
stars,  appeared  very  distinctly  as  a  head-piece  to  the  first 
page  of  the  Manuscript,  in  this  manner : 

n#A*A#T*n#N#»o#c 

A  postscript  at  the  end  of  the  volume  stated  that  the 
Manuscript  had  been  "  ivritten  by  John  the  Calligraphist,  for 
"  Arethas,  Dean  of  Pat  tee,  in  the  month  of  November  896, 
"  the  14.  year  of  the  Indiction,  and  6404.  year  of  the  world,  in 
"  the  reign  of  Leo  son  of  Basilius,  for  the  sum  of  thirteen 
"  Byzantine  Nummi,"  about  eight  guineas  of  our  money. 
The  Manuscript  mentioned  by  Dorville  on  Chariton3  is  one 
year  older. 

The  author  afterwards  discovered  a  Lexicon  of  St.  Cyrill    Discovery  of 

r     .  .  ,    .  .  .    .  ,  .       other  valuable 

of  Alexandria,   written  upon  paper,  without  any  date,  and    mss. 
contained  in  a  volume  of  Miscellanies.     He  also  found  two 
small  volumes  of  the  Psalms  and  of  Greek  Hymns,  accom- 
panied  by  unknown    characters,   serving  as   antient   Greek 

musical 


Blomfielcl  j  the  learned  editors  respectively  of  Euripides  and  of  ./Eschylus.  To 
mention  every  person  who  has  contributed  to  the  celebrity  of  this  inestimable  volume, 
would  be  to  enumerate  the  names  of  almost  all  the  eminent  Greek  scholars  in  the  kingdom. 
Of  the  importance  of  the  marginal  notes,  and  the  curious  fragments  they  contained  from 
Greek.  Plays  that  are  lost,  together  with  a  variety  of  particulars  relating  to  the  other 
Manuscripts  here  mentioned,  the  author  does  not  intend  to  add  a  syllable  :  it  were  pre- 
sumptive and  superfluous  to  do  so,  after  the  observations  already  published  upon  the 
subject.  His  only  aim  is,  to  give  a  general  narrative  of  the  manner  in  which  he  succeeded 
in  rescuing  the-e  Manuscripts  from  rottenness  and  certain  destruction  in  the  Monastery. 
(3)  See  Dorville  on  Chariton,  pp.  49,  50. 


ISLAND  OF  PATMOS. 

musical  notes.  They  are  the  same  which  the  Abbe  Barthelemy 
and  other  writers  have  noticed ;  but  their  history  has  never 
been  illustrated.  Besides  these,  he  observed,  in  a  Manuscript 
of  very  diminutive  size,  the  curious  work  of  Phile  upon 
Animals1,  containing  an  account  of  the  Ibis,  bound  up  with 
twenty- three  other  Tracts  upon  a  great  variety  of  subjects*. 
After  removing  these  volumes  from  a  quantity  of  theological 
writings,  detached  fragments,  worm-eaten  wooden  covers 
(that  had  belonged  to  books  once  literally  bound  in  boards), 
scraps  of  parchment,  Lives  of  Hermits,  and  other  litter,  all 
further  inquiry  was  stopped  by  the  promptitude  and  caution 
of  Mr.  Riley,  who  told  us  the  Superior  had  agreed  to  sell  the 
few  articles  we  had  selected,  but  that  it  would  be  impos- 
sible to  purchase  more;  and  that  even  these  would  be  lost,  if 
we  ventured  to  expose  them  to  the  observation  of  any  of  the 
inhabitants  of  the  town.  Then  telling  us  what  sum  he  had 
agreed  to  give  for  them,  he  concealed  two  of  the  smaller 
volumes  in  the  folds  of  his  Turkish  habit,  entrusting  to 
the  honour  of  the  two  Caloyers  the  task  of  conveying  the 
others  on  board  our  vessel  in  the  harbour.  Upon  this 
honour,  it  must  be  confessed,  we  did  not  rely  with  so  much 
confidence  as  we  ought  to  have  done ;  but  as  there  was  no 
other  method  which  promised  any  chance  of  success,  we 
were  forced  to  comply;  and  we  left,  as  we  believed,  the 
most  valuable  part  of  our  acquisition  in  very  doubtful 
hands.     Just  as  we  had  concluded  this  bargain,  the  French 

Commis- 


(1)  ToV    QlXt)    7TCpl   (uu>V   ici(JTl]TO<;  Old   (TTIJ^UV. 

(2)  See  Professor  Gaisford's  "  Catalogus  sive  Notitm  Manuscriplorum"  &c.  p.  62. 
Ozon.  1812. 


ISLAND  OF  PATMOS. 


35] 


Commissary  returned;  and  finding  us  busied  in  the  Library,  ^chap.ix. 
afforded  an  amusing  specimen  of  the  sort  of  system  pursued 
by  his  countrymen,  upon  such  occasions.  "  Do  you  find," 
said  he,  "  anything  worth  your  notice,  among  all  this 
rubbish  ?"  We  answered,  that  there  were  many  things  we 
would  gladly  purchase.  '"  Purchase  !"  he  added,  "  I  should 
never  think  of  purchasing  from  such  a  herd  of  swine:  if  I 
saw  anything  I  might  require,  I  should,  without  ceremony, 
put  it  in  my  pocket,  and  say,  Bon  jour  /" 

After  this,  some  keys  were  produced,  belonging  to  an 
old1  chest  that  stood  opposite  to  the  door  of  the  Library; 
and  we  were  shewn  a  few  antiquities  which  the  monks  had 
been  taught  to  consider  as  valuable.  Among  these,  the  first 
thine:  they  shewed  to  us  was  an  original  Letter  from  the    Manuscript 

o  J  in  the  hand- 

Empekor  Alexius  Comnenus,  concerning  the  establishment    writing  of 

°  Alex-ius 

of  their  Monastery,  inscribed  upon  a  large  roll,  and  precisely  comnenus. 
corresponding,  in  the  style  of  the  manuscript,  with  the 
fragment  preserved  by  Montfaucon  in  his  Palaeographia3. 
Besides  this  were  other  rolls  of  record,  the  deeds  of  suc- 
ceeding Emperors,  with  their  seals  affixed,  relating  to  the 
affairs  of  the  Convent.  We  calculated  the  number  of 
volumes  in  the  Library  to  be  about  a  thousand;  and  of  this 
number  above  two  hundred  were  in  manuscript.  After  we 
had  left  the  Library,  we  saw  upon  a  shelf  in  the  Refectory 

the 


(3)  "  Impkratoris  GrjECi  Epistolte  Insigne  Fragmentum."  See  Montfaucon, 
Palceog.  Grccc.  p.  266.  Paris,  1708.  This  Epistle  is  believed  by  Montfaucon  (from  the 
remains  of  the  signature  *  *  *  *  tantinus)  to  have  been  written  in  the  ninth  century, 
by  Constantinus  Copronymus,  to  Pepin,  the  French  king.  The  style  of  the  writing  very 
much  resembles  that  which  is  now  lying  in  the  Library  at  Patmos. 


i^tCoK-yn  <*,«ic.;.'aM 


CHAP.  IX. 


State  of 
Island. 


352  ISLAND   OF  PATMOS. 

the  most  splendid  Manuscript  of  the  whole  collection,  in. 
two  folio  volumes,  richly  adorned :  it  was  called  the 
Theology  of  Gregory  of  Nazianzen  ',  and  purported  to  be 
throughout  in  the  hand-writing  of  the  Emperor  Alexius2. 
Nothing  could  be  more  beautiful.  As  a  singular  circum- 
stance, it  may  also  be  mentioned,  that  we  saw  upon  the  same 
shelf,  and  by  the  side  of  this,  a  Manuscript  of  the  writings  of 
Gregory's  greatest  admirer,  Erasmus. 

The  Capudan  Pasha's  letter  enabled  us  to  order  bread 
from  the  island  for  our  voyage ;  and  this  the  monks  promised 
the  to  see  provided.  The  inhabitants  import  wheat  from  the 
Black  Sea ;  and  they  have  twelve  small  vessels  engaged  in 
commerce,  with  which  they  trade  to  different  ports  in  the 
Euxine  and  to  the  Adriatic,  bringing  corn  for  their  own 
use,  and  also  carrying  it  as  far  as  Ancona  in  Italy.  In 
Tournefort's  time  there  were  hardly  three  hundred  men  upon 
the  island,  and  at  least  twenty  women  to  one  man.  The 
population  remains  nearly  the  same  as  it  was  when 
he  wrote ;  for,  as  it  is  observed  by  Sonnini5,    "  While  the 

monasteries 

(1)  Cave  mentions  a  work  of  Gregorius  Nazianzenus  under  this  title  :  "  De  Theo- 
logid  Orationes  V.  contra  Eunomianos  et  Macedonianos :"  (see  Scriptor.  Ecclesiast. 
Hist.  Lit.  Sceculum  Arianum,  p.  200.  Lond.  1688.)  but  the  Patmos  MS.  being  in  two 
large  folio  volumes,  in  all  probability  contains  other  of  Gregory's  writings. 

(2)  This  MS.  is  noticed  in  the  Patmos  Catalogue  (See  the  beginning  of  this 
Section);  and  the  same  circumstance  is  related  of  the  hand-writing  of  the  Emperor 
Alexius:  it  is  there  called,  in  modern  Greek,  "  J  work  of  Gregory  the  Theologian, 
which  is  in  the  hand-writing  of  the  Emperor  Alexius  Comnenus ;  his  own  hand-writing ." 
Tpnyopiov  tov  dioXoyov  tva  fitfiXiov  to  oiroiov  tlvai  ypct\hifiov  tov  fiatnXcuc  'AXetyov 
tov  Kofiptjvov,  tov  iSiov  ypdiptfiov.  There  Were,  however,  tv/o  Calligr aphis ts  of  this 
name  Alexius;  the  one  wrote  the  Lives  of  the  Saints  in  1292;  the  other,  a  MS.  of 
Hippocrates  in  the  fourteenth  century.  See  Montfaucon,  Pal.  Gr.  lib.'x.p.QA.  Par.  1708. 

(3)  Travels  in  Greece,  &c.  p.  473.    Lond.  1801. 


ISLAND   OF  PATMOS 


353 


monasteries  swarm  with  sluggards,  the  fields  become 
deserts;"  and  population  is  consequently  diminished.  Yet, 
in  the  neighbouring  isles,  Patmos  is  described  as  the 
University  of  the  Archipelago  :  it  is  hither  that  the  Greek 
families  send  their  sons  to  be  educated,  by  a  set  of  monks 
unable  to  read  their  own,  or  any  other  language.  After 
we  left  the  Monastery,  we  paid  a  visit  to  Mr.  Antonio 
Gilly,  the  Prussian  Consul,  of  whom  we  purchased  several 
Greek  medals.  Among  these,  were  a  bronze  medal  of 
Eleusis,  representing  Ceres  in  her  car,  drawn  by  two 
serpents,  with  a  sow  on  the  reverse;  and  two  beautiful 
gold  medals  of  Lysimachus  and  of  Philip,  in  as  high 
a  state  of  preservation  as  if  they  had  been  just  issued 
from  the  mint.  The  freshness  of  their  appearance 
might  induce  a  suspicion  of  their  being  a  modern 
fabrication,  if  it  were  not  a  well-known  fact  that  to 
imitate  the  best  coinage  of  Thrace  and  Macedonia  is 
impossible ;  and  therefore  in  such  cases  we  may  defy 
imposture.  The  present  price  of  Greek  medals,  through- 
out the  Levant,  is  generally  the  same;  unless  they  be 
found,  as  it  sometimes  happens,  in  the  hands  of  trading 
antiquaries  and  ignorant  pretenders  to  a  knowledge  of 
antiquity,  when  the  most  absurd  and  exorbitant  terms 
are  set  upon  them.  The  usual  rate  of  selling  them, 
among  the  poor  artificers  in  gold  and  silver  found  in 
almost  all  the  towns,  is  this :  for  gold  medals,  twice 
their  weight  in  Venetian  sequins;  for  silver,  from  two 
plasties  to  five,  or  six,  according  to  the  size ;  and  for 
vol.  in.  2  z  bronze, 


CHAP.  IX. 


Antient 
Medals. 


354 


CHAP.  IX. 


ISLAND   OF  PATMOS. 

bronze',    about   a  para   for    each   medal.     Hence   it  must 
be  evident  that,  with  the  exception  of  the  silver  (which  are 
generally   of  the  highest    antiquity,   and  always  estimated 
below  their  present  price  in  England),  the  medals  of  Greece 
may  be  purchased   cheaper  in  London  than  in  the  Levant. 
Indeed,  the  Grecian  copper  coinage  is   now   considered  as 
being   of    such   modern    date,   that    it  is    little  valued    by 
collectors  of  Greek  medals2.     Roman    copper  is   found   in 
great  abundance ;   and  among  this  may  be  easily  obtained 
many  rare  and  valuable   coins,   illustrating    the  history    of 
Grecian  cities,  where  no  medals  were  struck  during  the  period 
in  which  they  were  governed  by  their  own  laws.    No  medal 
of  Patmos  has  been  discovered;  neither  is  it  likely  that  any 
ever  did    exist,   as  the  island  was  hardly  inhabited  when 
the  Romans  made  it  a  place  of  exile.     The  gold  medals  sold 
to  us  by  the  Prussian  Consul  were,  in  all  probability,  not 
found  upon  the  island,  but  brought  by  its  trading  vessels: 
it  is  a  common  occurrence  to  meet  with  such  antiquities  in 
the  hands  of  Greek  sailors,  who  collect  them  for  sale.     The 
medal  of  Lysimachus  exhibited,   as   usual,  a  fine  portrait  of 
the  deified  Alexander;  whose  image,  "  expressed  on  gold  or 

silver." 


(1)  The  author  has  generally  used  the  word  bronze  instead  of  brass,  as  applied  to 
Grecian  antiquities ;  and  for  this  reason  :  antient  bronze  consists  of  copper  containhg 
about  ten  per  cent,  of  tin,  and  therefore  differs  from  brass  which  is  a  compound  of 
copper  and  zinc;  but  whether  the  constituents  of  antient  bronze  be  found  in  the  Grecitn 
copper  coinage  has  not  perhaps  been  determined. 

(2)  It  has  been  sold  in  London  for  a  price  equivalent  to  the  weight  of  the  metal. 


ISLAND  OF   PATMOS. 


355 


silver,"  was  so  long  considered  as  propitious  to  its  possessor*. 
Concerning  the  medals  of  Lysimachus,  and  this  image,  the 
author  must  refer  to  a  former  work,  rather  than  repeat 
what  has  been  already  published4;  but  with  regard  to  the 
gold  medals  of  Philip,  bearing  the  legend  <t>IA!PPOY,  so  much 
doubt  has  generally  prevailed,  that  it  may  be  proper  to  add 
a  few^  words  upon  the  subject.  It  has  been  usual  to  attribute 
them  to  Philip  the  Second,  the  father  of  Alexander  the 
Great,  simply  from  the  circumstance  of  the  gold  mines 
discovered  during  his  time,  and  of  which  he  was  the  possessor*. 
There  is,  however,  much  greater  probability  that  they  were 
struck  during  the  reign  of  Philip  Arid^eus,  and  for  the 
following  reasons:  first,  that  some  of  them  have  the  legend 
BAXIAEnX4>IAIPPOY,  a  title  not  found  upon  Greek  medals 
before  the  time  of  Alexander  the  Great6;  secondly,  that  in  these 
medals  the  art  of  coining  was  carried  to  a  degree  of  per- 
fection unknown  in  any  former  period,  and  to  which  it  never 
afterwards  attained.  The  medals  of  the  Macedonian  kings 
before  the  age  of  Alexander  have  no  resemblance,  whether 
in  form,  in  weight,  in  substance,  or  in  the  style  of  their 
fabrication,   to   those  which  bear  the  name  of  Philip  :  the 

onlv 


chap.  ix. 


(3)  "  Dicuntur  juvari  in  omni  actu  suo  qui  Alexandrum  expressum  vel  auro  gestitant 
vel  argento."  Trebell.  Pollio,  Quiet,  xiii.  p.  IO9O.  Hist.  Rom.  Script,  upud  H.  Steph. 
1568. 

(4)  See  "  Tomb  of  Alexander:'    Camb.  1805. 

(5)  Pellerin  Recueil  de  Medailles  de  Rois,  p.  9.    Paris,  1?62. 

(6)  Hardouin  and  Froelich  ascribed  all  the  medals  with  this  legend  to  Philip 
Aridaeus.  Eckhel  maintained  a  different  opinion.  See  Doctrina  Num.  Vet.  Pars  I. 
vol.  II.  p.  94.    Vindohon.  1/94. 


■ 


^5g  ISLAND  OF   PATMOS. 

chap.  ix.  only  examples  to  be  compared  with  them,  in  relative  beauty 
and  perfection  of  workmanship,  are  the  medals  of  Lysimachus ; 
and  even  these  are  in  a  certain  degree  inferior.  Many  of 
the  medals  of  Alexander  the  Great,  although  remarkable  for 
boldness  of  execution  and  for  the  sharpness  of  the  die,  do  yet 
betray  something  of  the  rude  style  discernible  in  the  coinage 
of  his  predecessors,  although  the  art  was  subsequently  carried 
to  such  an  extraordinary  point  of  perfection  during  the 
reigns  of  Lysimachus  and  of  Philip  Aridaeus.  In  order  to 
form  a  correct  opinion  upon  this  subject,  and  to  be  convinced 
that  the  gold  coinage  now  alluded  to  did  not  belong  to  the 
age  of  Philip  the  Second,  something  more  is  requisite  than 
the  examination  of  a  particular  medal:  it  is  necessary  to 
view  the  whole  series  of  the  coins  of  the  Macedonian 
kings,  and,  by  observing  the  changes  introduced  into  their 
mint,  to  become  acquainted  with  the  style  which  denoted 
the  progress  of  the  art  at  any  particular  period ;  from  the 
unfigured  reverses  and  indented  squares  of  Alexander  the 
First  and  of  Archelaiis,  struck  nearly  five  centuries  before 
the  Christian  aera,  to  the  exquisite  perfection  of  design 
and  the  elegant  fabrication,  visible  in  the  medals  of 
Macedon  and  Thrace,  under  the  immediate  successors  of 
Alexander  the  Great. 

A  few  of  the  inhabitants  came  to  the  Consul's  house  to 
see  us.  Nothing  can  be  more  remarkable  than  the  situation 
of  the  town,  built  upon  the  edge  of  a  vast  crater  sloping 
off  on  either  side  like  the  roof  of  a  tiled  house.  Perry 
has  compared  it  to  "  an  asses  back;"  upon  the  highest  ridge 

of 


ISLAND  OF  PATMOS. 


357 


CHAP.  IX. 


Extensive 
prospect. 


of  which  stands  the  Monastery1.  The  inhabitants,  therefore, 
have  no  space  for  exercise,  either  on  foot  or  on  horseback : 
they  can  only  descend  and  ascend  by  the  rugged  path  that 
leads  to  the  harbour.  On  one  of  the  towers  of  the  Monas- 
tery a  look-out  is  regularly  kept  for  the  pirates;  the  view 
here  being  so  extensive,  that  no  vessel  can  approach  the 
island  without  being  perceived.  We  returned  to  enjoy  the 
prospect  from  this  place.  The  sight  was  extremely  mag- 
nificent ;  as  may  be  conceived  by  any  reader  who  will 
judge  from  the  appearance  exhibited  by  the  island  itself, 
and  by  this  Monastery,  at  the  distance  of  six  leagues  at  sea2. 
We  commanded  the  whole  Island  of  Amorgos,  which  is 
nearly  forty  miles  from  the  nearest  point  of  Patmos3;  and 
were  surrounded  by  many  of  the  grandest  objects  in  the 
Archipelago. 

As  we  descended  from  the  great  Monastery  of  St.  John,  Holy  Grotto. 
we  turned  off  upon  our  right  to  visit  a  smaller  edifice  of 
the  same  nature,  erected  over  a  cave,  or  grot,  where  the 
Apocalypse,  attributed  to  that  Evangelist,  is  said  to  have 
been  written.  It  can  hardly  be  considered  as  any  other 
than  a  hermitage,  and  it  is  entirely  dependent  upon  the 
principal   monastery.     As    to    the  cave  itself,   whence  this 

building 


(1)  Perry's  View  of  the  Levant,  p.  483.  Lond.  1/43.  Tournefort  makes  the  same 
comparison  with  reference  to  another  island,  that  of  St.  Minas  :  "  Elle  est  faite  en  dos 
d'ane."     Voyage du  Levant,  torn.  II.  Lett.\.  p.  150.    Lyon,  IJ l?. 

(2)  See  the  former  Section,  Plate  facing  p.  194. 

(3)  Thirteen  leagues,  according  10  the  Chart  of  D'Anville,  published  at  Paris, 
October,  1/56. 


EBB       HHH  ■■■■■■■  !*.-^A^*rt*e*'»?*:; 


£^@@£^g^g£$gat&si 


358 


CHAP.  IX. 


Dinner  given 
by  the  French 
Officers. 


ISLAND    OF  PATMOS. 

building  derives  its  origin,  and  to  which  it  owes  all  its 
pretended  sanctity,  it  may  be  supposed  that  any  other  cave 
wrould  have  answered  the  purpose  fully  as  well  :  it  is  not 
spacious  enough  to  have  afforded  a  habitation  even  for  a 
hermit ;  and  there  is  not  the  slightest  probability  that 
any  thing  related  concerning  it,  by  the  monks,  is  founded 
in  truth.  The  reader  will  find  a  very  accurate  represen- 
tation of  it  in  Tournefort1,  shewing  the  crevices  in  the 
stone  through  which  it  is  pretended  that  the  Holy  Spirit 
conveyed  its  dictates  to  the  Apostle.  It  affords  another 
striking  proof,  in  addition  to  many  already  enumerated, 
that  there  is  no  degree  of  absurdity  too  gross  for  the  pur- 
poses of  altarage  and  superstition.  There  seemed  to  be 
something  like  a  school  held  in  the  building  erected  about 
this  cave ;  but  the  only  monk  who  shewed  the  place  to  us, 
and  who  appeared  to  superintend  the  seminary,  was  not 
much  better  informed  than  his  godly  brethren  in  the  parent 
monastery9. 

Descending  from  this  place  towards  the  Port  of  ha  Scala, 
we  were  met  by  several  of  the  Frenchmen,  coming  with  the 
Commissary  to  invite  us  to  dinner ;  so  grateful  were  they 
for  the  attention  paid  to  their  request,  and  the  consequent 
safety  of  their  baggage,  that  each  seemed  to  strive  with  the 

other 


(1)  Voyage  du  Levant,  torn.  II.  p.  145.  a  Lyon,  17*7- 

(2)  Mr.  Walpole,  who  arrived  afterwards,  has  mentioned  in  his  Journal  that  the 
schoolmaster  was  able  to  read.  He  found  him  reading  a  Manuscript  of  the  Odyssey 
of  Homer.  See  the  Extract  from  Mr.  Walpole 's  Journal,  in  a  preceding  page  of  this 
Chapter. 


ISLAND   OF   PATMOS. 


359 


other  who  could  render  us  the  greater  civility.    We  accepted      chap.ix. 
their   invitation;    and    were   conducted   into   a   warehouse 
near  the  quay,  where  a  large  table  was  prepared  with  fish, 
wine,  and  biscuit.     Here  we  found  several  French  women 
conversing  with  their  usual  gaiety,   and  we  all  sat  down 
together.     During  dinner,  the  conversation  turned  upon  the 
events  that  had  happened  in  Egypt ;  and,  as  each  began  to 
boast  of  his  personal  prowess  in  the  late  campaign,  some 
contradictions   took  place,  and  a  most  turbulent  scene  of 
dispute  ensued.     In  the  midst  of  this,  a  figure  entered  the     Bartheiemy. 
warehouse,  whose  appearance  silenced  the  whole  party,  and 
was  particularly  gratifying  to   our  curiosity.     It  was  Bar- 
theiemy, the  famous  Greek  pirate,  who  engaged  in  the  French 
service  under  Buonaparte,  and  was   chief  of  a  regiment  of 
Mamlukes  in  Egypt.     His  figure  was  uncommonly  martial 
and   dignified :    he   wore   the   Mamluke    dress,   and  carried 
a  large  knotted  club  as  a  walking  stafF.     Placing  himself 
at  the  table,  he  began  to  complain,  in  a  very  hoarse  voice, 
of  the   treatment    he   had    experienced,    which    he    stated 
to   be   contrary  to  the  most  solemn   stipulations ;   contrary 
to  his    deserts ;    and   highly   dishonourable   to   the   French 
army,  for  whom  he  had  fought  so  many  battles,  and  made 
such    important    sacrifices.     They    made    free,    it    seemed, 
with  his  women ;  of  whom  he  had  many  that  he  was  con- 
veying as  his  property  to  France.     One  or  two  of  the  prin- 
cipal persons  present    endeavoured  to   pacify  him,  bv  the 
assurance    that  he   should   not  be  molested  in  future;   and 
filling  a  large  goblet  of  wine,   proposed  to  him  to  drink 
"  Success  to  the  Republic,   and   the  liberation  of  Greece." 

The 


m 


360 


'  CHAP.  IX. 


Women  of 
the  Island. 


ISLAND    OF   PATMOS. 

The  wary  old  Corsair  did  not  appear  to  relish  the  toast; 
and  had  probably,  by  this  time,  both  heard  and  seen  quite 
enough  of  Gallic  emancipation. 

We  remained  near  a  week  at  Patmos.  The  next  day 
we  revisited  the  Monastery,  and  were  again  admitted 
to  the  Library.  We  found  it  would  be  impossible  to 
purchase  any  other  Manuscripts  than  those  for  which  we 
had  stipulated ;  for  upon  this  and  every  subsequent  occasion 
some  of  the  inhabitants  of  the  town  thought  proper  to 
accompany  us  into  the  Convent.  The  Superior  took  occasion 
to  assure  us,  that  both  he  and  the  Bursar  were  willing  enough 
to  part  with  the  xstgoyguQa ;  but  that  if  it  were  known 
to  have  brought  them  any  gain,  the  people  of  Patmos, 
acting  as  spies  for  the  Capudan  Pasha,  would  make  it  the 
cause  of  a  very  heavy  imposition  upon  the  Monastery. 
We  could  not  procure  a  catalogue,  either  of  the  Manuscripts 
or  of  the  printed  books'.  This  day  we  dined  with  the 
monks,  and  afterwards  went  again  into  the  town.  The 
women  of  the  island,  here  collected  as  it  were  upon  a  single 
point,  are  so  generally  handsome,  that  it  is  an  uncommon 
sight  to  meet  with  any  who  are  otherwise.  Their  houses 
are  kept  very  clean:  it  is  customary  with  them  to  raise  their 

beds, 


(1)  The  Marquis  of  Sligo  afterwards  visited  Patmos,  and  obtained  the  Catalogue 
alluded  to  in  a  preceding  Note  :  it  is  written  in  modern  Greek,  and  contains  a  List  of  all 
the  Books  in  the  Patmos  Library.  This  Catalogue  his  Lordship  kindly  presented  to  the 
author.  Nothing  is  said  in  it  as  to  the  editions  of  the  different  authors,  nor  a  syllable 
concerning  the  age  of  the  Manuscripts  :  the  reader  is,  however,  referred  to  it  for  more 
detailed  information  concerning  the  latter;  and  to  the  Dissertation  by  Mr.Walpole,  in 
the  beginning  of  this  Section. 


ISLAND   OF  PATMOS. 

beds,  at  least  ten  feet  from  the  floor,  and  they  ascend  to 
them  by  steps.  Dapper  mentions  several  villages  in  Patmos, 
existing  at  present  only  in  his  work2.  The  island  produces 
very  little  wheat,  and  still  less  of  barley:  even  the  corn 
consumed  in  the  Monastery  is  brought 'from  the  Black  Sea. 
There  are  several  bells  at  the  Monastery,  which  the  monks 
are  frequently  ringing.  The  enjoyment  of  this  noise  is  con- 
sidered as  a  great  indulgence ;  bells  being  prohibited  by  the 
Turks.  Dapper  says,  that,  excepting  upon  Mount  Libanus, 
Patmos  is  the  only  place  in  all  the  Turkish  empire  where 
bells  may  be  heard3:  in  this  he  is  however  mistaken,  for 
Naxos  has  the  same  privilege. 

The  whole  of  Sunday,  October  the  eleventh,  was  passed 
in  great  anxiety,  being  the  day  on  which  the  Superior  of  the 
Monastery  had  engaged  to  send  the  remaining  Manuscripts 
purchased  by  the  author  from  the  Library.  Mr.  Riley  had 
left  Patmos  for  Constantinople ;  and  we  began  to  fear,  as  the 
evening  approached,  that  his  absence  might  become  the 
pretext  for  a  breach  of  contract  on  the  part  of  the  monks. 
Towards  sun-set,  being  upon  the  deck  of  our  caique,  and 
looking  towards  the  mountain,  we  discerned  a  person 
coming  down  the  steep  descent  from  the  Monastery  towards 
the  port :  presently,  as  he  drew  near,  we  perceived  that  he 
had  a  large  basket  upon  his  head,  and  that  he  was  coming 
towards  the  quay,  opposite  to  the  spot  where  our  vessel  was 
at  anchor.     Upon  his   arrival,  we  saw  him   making  signs 

for 


361 


CHAP.  IX. 


Bells. 


(2)  Dapper,  Description  des  Isles  de  l'Archipel.  p.  181.    Arnst.  1703, 

(3)  Ibid.  p.  180. 

VOL.  III.  3  a 


362 


ISLAND   OF  PATMOS. 


CHAP.  IX. 


Stratagem  for 
obtaining  the 
Greek  Manu- 
scripts. 


Fruitless  at- 
tempt to  leave 
the  Island. 


for  a  boat ;  and  we    sent  to  him  the  little  skiff  belonging 
to    our   caique.      As   he    came  along- side,    he   said    aloud 
that    he    had    brought   the   bread    ordered    for  us   in   con- 
sequence   of    our    letter    from    the    Capudan    Pasha;    but 
coming  upon  deck,  he  gave  a  significant  wink,  and  told  us 
the  Superior  desired  that   we  would  "  empty  the   basket 
ourselves,  and  count  the  loaves,  to  see  that  all  was  right/* 
Wc  took  the  hint,  and  hurried  with  the  precious  charge  into 
our  birth,  where,  having  turned  the  basket  bottom  upwards, 
we  found,  to  our  great  joy,  the  Manuscript  of  Plato,  the 
Poems  of  Gregory,  the  work  of  Phile,  with  the  other  Tracts, 
and  the  volume  of  Miscellanies  containing  the  Lexicon  of 
St.  Cyrill:  these  we  instantly  concealed  beneath  a  mattress 
in  one  of  our  cots  ;  and  making  a  grand  display  of  the  loaves, 
returned  with   the  basket  upon   deck,   giving  a  handsome 
present   to  the  porter,  and   desiring   he  would  inform   the 
Superior,    with   our  most  grateful   acknowledgments,    that 
"  all  was  perfectly  right"    Having  set  him  again  on  shore, 
we  gave  orders  to  our  Captain  to  have  every  thing  ready  for 
sailing  the  next  morning,   and  to  stand  out  of  the  port  as 
soon  after  sun-rise  as  possible,  intending  to  leave  Patmos. 

In  this  design  we  were,  however,  disappointed ;  but 
as  the  delay  which  ensued  gave  us  an  opportunity  of 
discovering  some  curious  geological  phamomena,  we  had 
no  reason  to  regret  that  we  were  thus  detained. 

At  seven  o'clock  the  next  morning  the  wind  served,  and 
we  hoisted  sail.  Steering  east  out  of  the  harbour,  and  then 
putting  the  head  of  our  caique  towards  the  north,  we 
endeavoured  to  double  the  north-eastern  point  of  the  island. 

Tournefort,. 


«* 


ISLAND  OF  PATMOS. 

Tournefort,  who  is  always  accurate,  published,  a  century 
ago,  a  better  map  of  Patmos  than  can  be  found  in  any  other 
work1.  Such  is  often  the  inaccuracy  of  Dapper,  notwith- 
standing the  industry  shewn  in  his  compilation  relative  to 
the  islands  of  the  Archipelago,  that  he  describes  the  harbour 
of  La  Scala  as  on  the  western  side  of  the  island,  opposite 
to  the  Isle  of  Naxos9;  perhaps  confounding  it  with 
Tournefort' s  Port  de  Merica.  Patmos  has  many  ports  ;  and 
from  this  cause  it  is  so  much  infested  by  pirates,  who 
resort  to  the  port  of  La  Scala  to  careen  their  vessels,  and 
for  fresh  water.  During  the  last  war  maintained  by  the 
Venetians  against  Candia,  La  Scala  was  the  wintering-place 
of  their  fleet:  there  are  many  ruined  buildings  near  the 
quay.  The  most  contradictory  accounts  have  been  published 
of  the  island ;  some  describing  it  as  the  most  barren  rock  of 
the  Archipelago',  and  others  extolling  its  fertility4.  From 
all  that  we  could  collect  upon  the  subject,  it  is  as  capable  of 
repaying  the  labours  of  husbandry  as  any  other  of  the 
neighbouring  isles,   were  it   not  for  the  danger  to  which 

property 


363 


CHAP.  IX. 


(1)  See  the  Vignette  to  this  Chapter,  taken  from  the  edition  of  Lyon,  1717, 
torn.  II.  p.  140;  and  engraved  with  little  addition. 

(2)  "  Le  meilleur  port  de  cette  ile  et  tout  l'Archipel  est  au  devant  de  la  ville  de 
Patino,  dn  cote  d1  Occident,  vis-a-vis  de  Pile  de  Naxos.  II  est  generalement  connu  parmi 
les  mariniers  sous  le  nom  de  La  Scala."  (Description  des  Isles  de  l'Archipel.  p.  lfQ. 
Amst.  1/03.)  To  such  mistakes  a  compiler  may  be  liable;  but  when  he  undertakes  to 
explain  the  legends  upon  Greek  medals,  the  reader  is  little  prepared  for  an  interpretation 
like  the  following:  "  KOINOMKYnPIXlN,  c'est  a  dire,  Conon  des  Cypriens.  Ce 
Conon  etoit  apparemment  le  fondateur  du  temple"  ! !  !    Ibid.  p.  523. 

(3)  Tournefort,  torn.  II.  p.  142.  Lyon,  1717. 

(4)  Dapper,  p.  179.    Amst.1703.     Georgirenez,  &c. 


»jHW»« 


364 

CHAP.  IX. 


View  of 
Samos. 


ISLAND    OF   PATMOS. 

property  is  exposed,  from  the  continual  incursions  of  the 
pirates.  Its  harbours  render  it  an  important  station  as 
a  place  of  commerce  :  but  the  circumference  of  the  whole 
island  does  not  exceed  eighteen  miles,  although  Pliny 
makes  it  equal  to  thirty1.  It  seems  to  have  been  hardly 
known  before  the  Christian  agra.  Strabo  merely  notices 
its  situation  as  one  of  the  Sporades,  near  to  Amorgos, 
Lebinthus,  and  Leria*. 

As  we  sailed  to  the  northward  of  the  island,  we  were 
surprised  to  see  Samos  so  distinctly  in  view.  It  is  hardly 
possible  that  the  relative  situation  of  Samos  and  Patmos  can 
be  accurately  laid  down  in  D'Anville's,  or  any  more  recent 
chart ;  for  keeping  up  to  windward,  we  found  ourselves  to  be 
so  close  under  Samos,  that  we  had  a  clear  view,  both  of 
the  island  and  of  the  town3.  This  island,  the. most  conspi- 
cuous object  not  only  of  the  Ionian  Sea,  but  of  all  the 
^Egean,  is  less  visited,  and  of  course  less  known,  than  any 
other :  it  is  one  of  the  largest  and  most  considerable  of 
them  all,  and  so  near  to  the  main  land  that  it  has  been 
affirmed  persons  upon  the  opposite  coasts  may  hear  each 
other  speak4.  The  generality  of  Greek  authors  describe  its 
circumference  as  equal  to  eighty-seven  and  a  half  of  our  miles. 

Strabo 


(1)  Hist.  Nat.  lib.  iv.  cap.  12.  torn.  I.  p.  224.    L.  Bat.  1635. 

(2)  JJXrfffiov    cT  £<tti    teat    r\  Ila'ryuoi,    k.  t.  X.      Strabon.   Geog.    lib.  xvii.    p.  Jll. 
Oxon.  I8O7. 

(3)  The  relative  position  of  these  islands  seems  to  be  more  accurately  delineated  in 
the  old  Map  of  Antient  Greece,  by  William  Delisle,  dated  Paris,  October,  1707. 

(4)  Dapper,  p.  190.     Amst.  1703. 


ISLE  OF   SAMOS. 

Strabo  considers  it  as  somewhat  less :  but  its  surprising 
elevation  and  relative  position,  with  regard  to  the  lower 
islands  of  Fourni  and  Nicaria,  make  it  a  land-mark  all  over  the 
Archipelago5.  According  to  Constantine  Porphyrogenetes, 
any  very  lofty  place  was  called  Samos6.  The  name  of 
KATABATH  was  antiently  given  to  the  terrible  rock  which 
forms  the  cape  and  precipice  upon  its  western  side,  as  col- 
lecting the  clouds,  and  generating  thunder :  Jupiter  the 
Thunderer  being  also  called  Kara/Sarjjs  ZsuV-  One  of  the 
monasteries  is  called  Tlccvccyia,  fBgovtiu,  Our  Tady  of  the  Thunder. 
There  are  four  nunneries  upon  the  island,  and  above  three 
hundred  private  chapels  ;  yet  the  population  does  not  exceed 
12,000  men;  which  is  explained  by  Tournefort,  who  says, 
that  the  island  is  entirely  in  the  hands  of  churchmen, 
possessing  seven  monasteries.  The  swarm  of  Caloyers  and 
Greek  Papas  have  made  a  desert  of  this  fine  island,  where 
all  the  qualification  necessary  to  become  a  priest,  and  live 
by  the  industry  of  othe/s,  is  the  talent  of  being  able  to 
repeat  mass  from  memory.  The  bishop  of  Samos,  who  is 
also  bishop  of  Nicaria,  enjoys  an  annual  income  of  two 
thousand  crowns ;  and  derives,  besides,  a  considerable 
revenue    from    the    important   services   he    renders    to    the 

islanders, 


365 

CHAP.   IX. 


(5)  A  fact  has  been  disputed,  which  the  author  is  still  disposed. to  maintain;  viz. 
that  the  Boccaze  of  Samos  may  be  seen  from  the  summit  of  Hymettus  in  Attica. 

(6)  See  also  Tournefort,  torn   II.  lett.  3.     Lyon,  1 717. 

(7)  Kara/3aV?/c  Ztt/e,  irapd  to  Karafltfidfciv  top  Ktpavvov.  Suidas.  Jul.  Poll, 
lib.'i.  cap.  I.  Lilanius,  Legat.  ad  Julian.  Pausan.  Eliac.  prior  Pharnutus  in  Jovis  cog- 
nominilus,  speak  of  Jupiter  Kara</3aVf/c,  who  darts  the  thunder.  See  also  Tournef. 
Voy.  du  Lev.  torn.  II.  p.  105.    Lyon,  1717  5  whence  this  note  is  taken. 


:*£*:«  ^H  ^Mfi  ^^^H 

————— 


ISLE  OF    SAMOS. 

islanders,  in  blessing  for  them  their  water  and  their  cattle 
in  the  beginning  of  May.  All  the  produce  of  the  dairies 
on  that  day  belongs  to  him:  he  has  also  two  beasts  out  of 
every  herd'.  In  such  a  state  of  affairs,  we  cannot  wonder  at 
the  change  that  has  taken  place  between  the  antient  and  the 
modern  population  of  Samos  :  its  fertility  in  former  ages 
made  it  the  subject  of  proverbial  admiration  and  praise*. 
It  is  related  in  Athenaeus,  that  the  fruit  and  rose-trees  of 
the  island  bore  twice  a  year3.  Tournefort  says,  that  Samos 
is  infested  with  wolves;  and  that  tigers  sometimes  arrive 
from  the  main  land,  after  crossing  the  little  Boccaze4; 
thereby  confirming  an  observation  made  by  the  author  in  the 
former  section,  with  regard  to  the  existence  of  tigers  in 
Asia  Minor. 

Passing  across  the  great  Boccaze,  between  Samos  and 
Icaria,  we  were  much  struck  by  the  extraordinary  intensity 
of  the  deep  blue  colour  of  the  sea ;  and  this,  which  is  as 
much  a  distinguishing  characteristic  of  the  Archipelago  as 
the  brightness  of  its  sky,  has  been  noticed  by  no  writer, 
excepting  our  enchanting  bard,  now  so  deservedly  the  theme 
of  general  praise5. 

As 


(1)  See  Tournef.  Voy .  du  Lev.  torn.  II.  p.  107-    Lyon,  17 1 7- 

(2)  'On  <pcpei  tot  dpvidcov  ydXa  ;   Kada7rsp  ttov  Kctl  Mivav£po<;  i(f»n.    Strabon.  Geos, 
lib.  xiv.  p.  914.    Ed.  Oxon. 

(3)  Athen.  Deipn.  lib.  xiv. 

(4)  Voyage  du  Lev.  torn.  II.  p.  112.    Lyon,  \J\7. 

(5)  "  He  that  has  sailed  upon  the  dark  blue  sea, 

**  Has  viewed  at  times,  I  ween,  a  full  fair  sight." 

Byron's  "  Childe  Harold"  p.  6g.    Lond.  1812. 


Armorgos.  at  Sun  set  Oct.li  bearing  S.W.and  by  W.dietantjo  Jf,-V,:>\ 


ftheBoeeaze  of  Samoa  bearing  X.K.i-  byE.distant  U2£tes.with  Samoi.fbttrni.andJfamri. 
taken  h>>m  r/ifSorth  Coast  of  Patmes. 


1  lew  of  the  Boeeaze.  or  Passage  between jlfuhvs  and  teiws.  bearina  .V./'.r  /•■,/.'  .//.<•/.;;//  .i/><<nt  i,  n  Mile. 


PublttheA  Mm  ■>  1S14  by  T.CadeU  r  :';.7'./i/,-..-..>".7v/,7.i'./.,'.7./.vv. 


ICARIA.  $67 

As  evening  drew  on,  we  took  the  bearings  of  the  principal      chap.jx. 
headlands  then  in  view,  and  found  them  to  be  accurately 
as  follow  : 

Fourni n. 

Samos n.  n.  e. 

Asiatic  Coast e.  n.  e. 

La  Scala,  Patmos  Port  .  .  s.  e. 
Groupe  of  small  Isles  .  .  s.  and  by  w. 
Island  called  Anguaro  .  .  s.  w. 

Amorgos s.  w.  and  by  w. 

Naxos w.  and  by  s. 

Cape  of  Icaria n.  w.  and  by  w.  and  w.  n.  \v. 

Whenever  it  is  practicable  to  make  these  observations  at 
sunset  in  the  Archipelago,  surrounded  as  a  vessel  always  is 
by  land,  they  ought  to  be  carefully  noticed. 

After  sunset,  we  were  becalmed  off  the  Point  of  Icaria,      icaria. 
and  remained,   during  part  of  the  night,  in  a  state  of  great 
apprehension,   owing    to    the    fears   of   our    mariners   with 
regard  to  the  pirates.     Some  fires  were  exhibited  on  shore; 
first   one,  and   then   another  above   it,   until   we    saw  five 
burning  at  the  same  time.     These  our   Captain   maintained 
to   be   signals  made  by   corsairs   on  the  island,   who  were 
collecting  to  attack  our  vessel ;  consequently  we  extinguished 
every  light  on  board,  and  began  to  row  with  all  the  energy 
in   our  power,   drawing  off  towards    Naxos.     Icaria   is    at 
present  one  of  the  grand  resorts  of  these  predatory  rovers, 
who    are  always   upon    the    watch   for    ships    passing   the 
Boccazc  of  Samos.     Small  vessels,  unfortunately  becalmed 
near  to  their  haunts,   have  but  little  chance   of  escaping. 

Icaria 


368 


CHAP.  IX. 


icaria; 

Icaria  is  at  present  hardly  known :  it  once  gave  name 
to  the  Icarian  Sea1,  and  had  two  towns  in  the  time  of 
Pliny2.  These  must  have  been  the  small  towns  mentioned 
by  Strabo5,  of  CEnoe,  and  Drepanum;  called,  in  the  Doric 
dialect,  Dracanum.  No  traveller  has  sought  for  any  anti- 
quities upon  Icaria;  yet  we  are  further  informed  by 
Strabo4,  that  it  had  a  temple  of  Diana,  called  Tauropolium  ; 
and  Goltzius  has  preserved  a  medal  of  the  island,  with 
the  legend  iKAPinN,  representing  Europa  passing  the  sea 
upon  a  bull,  with  the  effigy  of  Diana  armed  with  a  bow, 
and  accompanied  by  a  hound,  upon  the  reverse.  It  received 
the  name  of  Icaria  from  the  story  of  the  flight  of  Icarus 
from  Crete,  whose  body,  fabled  to  have  been  cast  upon 
this  island,  after  falling  into  the  iEgean,  was  buried  by 
Hercules5;  and  this  antient  name  it  retains  to  the  present 
day6.  The  Italians,  but  more  particularly  the  French,  have 
introduced  a  number  of  appellations  for  the  islands  of  the 
Archipelago,  which  do  not  exist  among  the  Greeks :  thus 
Icaria  has  been  often  called  Naccari;  Cos,   Stanchio;  and 

Crete 


(1)  Njjo-oc  >/  'IicapKx,  d<f  17c  7-0  'lKapiov  viXayoi.    Stralon.  Geog.  lib.  xiv.  p.Ql5. 

Oxon.  1807. 

"  Icarus  Icariis  nomine  fecit  aquis." 

Ovid.  Trist.  lib.  iii.  El.  4.  v.  22. 

(2)  "  Cum  oppidis   duobus,   tertio  amisso."      Hist.  Nat.   lib.  iv.   cap.  12.    torn.  I. 
p.  223.    L.  Bat.  1635. 

(3)  Strabon.  Geog.  ubi  supra. 

(4)  Ibid. 

(5)  Pomp.  Mela,  ii.  cap.  7.     Ptolem.  5.  cap.  2.     Strab.  ubi  supra. 

(6)  Tournefort  made  the  same  observation  :   "  N icaria  n'a  pas  change  de  nom,  elle 
s'appelle  Icaria,  tout  comme  autrefois."      Voy.  du  Lev.  torn.  II.  p.  96.    Lyon,  1/1/. 


RETURN    TO   PATMOS. 


369 


Crete  almost  always  bears  the  name  of  Candia.     Our  Casiot    t^HA^ix;, 
mariners,  in  their  common  conversation,  called  these  islands 
severally,   Icaria,  Cos,   and  Crete;    never  using  the  words 
Naccari,  Stanchio,  and  Candia. 

After  labouring  for  several  hours,  the  wind  began  to 
come  in  squalls  from  the  south-west,  directly  contrary  to 
our  course  for  Naxos ;  the  sky  at  the  same  time  lowering, 
with  flashes  of  lightning,  to  windward;  a  never- failing  indi- 
cation of  violent  gales  in  these  seas.  Our  Captain  proposed 
that  we  should  run  for  the  first  port  on  the  western  side  of 
Patmos  :  to  this  we  gladly  consented  ;  and  especially  because 
he  declared  himself  to  be  well  acquainted  with  the  entrance 
to  a  small  harbour  on  that  side  of  the  island.  As  the 
daylight  began  to  appear,  w7e  found  ourselves  close  under  Western  port 
some  very  high  cliffs,  in  the  face  of  which  appeared  a  dark 
chasm,  the  narrow  mouth  of  this  port.  Through  this 
passage  we  entered  ;  and,  having  brought  our  vessel  to 
anchor,  perceived  that  the  harbour  in  which  we  were  now 
stationed  was  opposite  to  that  of  La  Scala,  being  separated 
from  it  only  by  a  small  isthmus.  It  proved  to  be  a  fine, 
clear  day.  The  mercury  in  Fahrenheit's  thermometer  stood, 
at  noon,  at  ;5J.  Soon  after  coming  to  anchor,  the  author 
landed,  with  a  view  of  examining  the  cliffs;  as  the  ports  of  the 
island  have  the  appearance  of  craters,  and  substances  resem- 
bling lava  are  common  among  the  fragments  of  its  rocks.  The 
Monastery  of  St.  John  is  situated  upon  the  highest  verge  of 
a  crater  of  this  description  ;  and  the  harbour  of  La  Scala 
owes  its  origin  to  another.  Perhaps  there  is  not  a  spot  in 
the  Archipelago  with  more  of  the  semblance  of  a  volcanic 

vol.  in.  3  b  origin 


370 


CHAP.  IX. 


Geological 
Phenomena. 


ISLAND   OF  PATMOS. 

origin  than  Patmos.  The  cliffs  exhibit  no  form  of  regular 
strata,  but  one  immense  bed  of  a  porous  black  rock,  in  which 
are  numerous  nuclei  of  a  white  colour,  as  large  as  a  pullet's 
egg,  in  the  form  of  crosses.  Those  crosses  are,  of  course, 
considered  by  the  ignorant  inhabitants  as  so  many  miraculous 
apocalyptical  types:  and  it  is  singular  that  the  monks  have 
not,  as  is  usual  in  such  cases,  some  marvellous  tale  to  relate 
of  their  origin.  The  rock  itself,  upon  a  nearer  examination, 
proved  to  be  a  very  curious  porphyry :  the  nuclei  were  all 
of  them  intersecting  crystals  of  feldspar,  imbedded  in 
decomposing  trap1.  Among  the  geological  phenomena  of 
the  Archipelago,  it  is  perhaps  impossible  to  point  out  any  that 
are  more  worthy  of  observation  than  those  which  are  exhibited 
in  the  cliffs  surrounding  this  remarkable  harbour  ;  and  there 
has  never  been  exhibited  specimens  of  porphyry  where  the 

crystals 


(l)  We  succeeded  in  detaching  some  of  those  twin  crystals  tolerably  entire :  their 
intersection  had  taken  place  obliquely  in  the  direction  of  their  lateral  planes,  the  major 
diameter  of  each  crystal  being  parallel  to  that  of  its  associate.  Owing  to  this  intersection, 
the  appearance  ot  a  cross  was  exhibited  whenever  the  nuclei,  by  weathering,  had 
been  worn  away  transversely,  so  as  to  become  level  with  the  superficies  of  the  rock 
in  which  they  were  imbedded.  This  relative  position  and  their  colour  give  them 
some  resemblance  to  leucite;  differing  from  leucite  otherwise  in  the  size  and  shape 
of  the  crystals.  Leucite  is,  however,  so  nearly  allied  to  feldspar,  that  were  it  not  for 
the  very  minute  portion  of  lime  which  is  found  in  the  latter,  their  chemical  constituents 
would  be  nearly  the  same,  and  in  the  same  proportions ;  and  possibly  the  double 
cleavage  observed  by  Hairy  in  the  former,  which  caused  him  to  bestow  upon  it  the 
name  of  amphigene,  may  be  owing  to  some  circumstance  of  intersection  which  so 
commonly  characterizes  the  crystals  of  feldspar.  At  all  events,  it  may  be  proposed  as 
a  mineralogical  query,  "  Whether,  if  leucite  be  found  before  it  has  sustained  the  action 
of  fire,  it  do  not  prove  to  be  a  variety  of  Aduluriu,  ?" 


ISLAND  OF  PATMOS. 


371 


CHAP.  IX. 


crystals  of  feldspar  are   in  any  degree  comparable  in   size 
with  those  which  are  now  mentioned2. 

This  day,  Tuesday,  October  the  thirteenth,  we  observed,    Plants. 
in  a  small  garden  near  this  harbour,  a  Karob-tree  (Ceratonia 
Siliqua)  in  bloom.    A  few  shrubs  grew  among  the  rocks,  but 
we  could  procure  no  specimens  of  plants  worth  collecting 
for  our  herbary.     The  island  abounds  in  goats,  rabbits,  and    Animals 
partridges.  In  the  evening  we  amused  ourselves  in  fishing,  and 
caught  some  red  mullets.    The  harbour  appeared  as  literally 
swarming  with  the  most  beautiful  fishes,  of  all  colours.    We 
perceived  some  that  were  green,  others  that  were  blue,  and 
again  others  that  were  striped.     Our  sailors  taught  us  to  use 
small  shell-fish  for  our  baits  ;  and  as  we  lowered  these  to  the 
bottom,  the  water  being  as  clear  as  crystal,  the  fish,  tempted 
from   their  haunts  among   the   marine  plants  that  covered 
the   rocks,  were  seen  distinctly   whenever    they    took    the 
snare.     The    Greeks    are  very  expert  fishermen,    and    our 
sailors  caught  many  more  than  we  could  do ;  they  had  also 
a  curious  method  of  luring  the  fish  out  of  the  spiral  shells 
which  we  found  here,  by  a  continued  and  gentle  tapping 
of  the  shell  with  the  point  of  a  knife,  accompanied  by  a 
tremulous  whistling.    We  found  several  kinds  of  shell-fish  ; 
and  could  discern  some  large  scollops  lying  upon  the  rocks 

beneath 


(2)  Martin  Crusius,  in  his  annotations  upon  an  Epistle  of  Macarius  (abbot  of 
Patmos)  to  the  Greek  Patriarch,  in  J 5/Q,  has  cited  a  work  printed  at  Venice,  which 
states  that  the  island  is  metalliferous.  "  La  quale  insula,  e  montuosa,  et  di  vene  di  metalli 
copiosa."    Vid.  Tnrco-Graeciae,  lib.  iv.  p.  302.    Basil,  sine  anno. 


^•^•■n^^v^-tti-.-jr^  ^.■jticye-JK,:.-.         ^.wal^v-'i-.^]-       ^^^HHHBT 


372 


ISLAND   OF  PATMOS. 


CHAP.  IX. 


beneath  the  clear  still  water,  but  they  were  out  of  our  reach. 
Very  fine  spunges  might  also  be  gathered  from  the  same  rocks, 
all  around  the  bay.  It  continued  calm  all  the  next  day. 
The  author  went  early  on  shore,  to  see  if  any  antiquities 
might  be  found  between  the  two  ports ;  and  was  fortunate 
enough  to  discover  two  Greek  Marbles,  the  first  of  which, 
a  bas-relief  with  an  inscription,  he  purchased  and  brought 
away.  It  was  found  by  a  peasant  upon  a  small  rocky  isle 
near  to  the  mouth  of  the  harbour  of  La  Scala.  The 
sculpture  had  not  much  merit ;  but  any  relique  is  worthy 
of  notice  which  exhibits  an  example  of  Grecian  sculpture  at 
Patmos,  where  no  antiquity  of  this  kind  has  hitherto  been 
Marbiec^w*.  discovered.  This  marble  is  a  sepulchral  tablet,  or  Cippus, 
as  distinguished  from  the  Stele,  and  it  is  now  deposited  in 
the  Vestibule  of  the  University  Library  at  Cambridge1.  The 
subject  represented  is  the  Death-bed  of  "  Aristeas  son  of 
ZosixMUs."  A  dog  is  introduced  into  the  design,  apparently 
watching  for  the  moment  of  dissolution.  This  figure,  denoting 
the  Anuhis  of  the  Egyptians,  and  Hermes  of  the  Greeks, 
commonly  appears  upon  sepulchral  monuments,  as  a  symbol 
of  Mercury  the  conductor  of  the  souls  of  the  dead.  Beneath 
the  bas-relief  is  this  inscription: 


A  PI  CTEAC 

ZOIIMOY 


The 


(1)  See"  Greek  Marbles"  No.  XIII.  p.  11.    Caml.  I8O9. 


ISLAND   OF   PATMOS.  373 

The  other  marble  was  also  a  cippus,  nearly  of  the  same  form,    v  chap,  ix.  t 
with  an  inscription  almost  as  brief  as  the  preceding: 

A  I  O  A  n  P  A 

XPHITE 
X  A  I  PE 

The  meaning  of  the  word  ^a/^s  upon  a  cippus  will  hardly 
admit  of  dispute.  It  is  the  common  form  of  salutation, 
"  hail,  and  farewell"  upon  almost  every  Grecian  tombstone. 
But  those  who  are  curious  to  learn  its  various  significations, 
when  used  in  conversation  by  the  Greeks,  may  consult  Lucian 
himself,  who,  when  apprentice  to  his  uncle  the  sculptor, 
had  often  employed  his  chisel  in  carving  the  letters  of  a 
word  on  stone,  which  he  afterwards  used  as  the  subject 
of  one  of  his  critical  dissertations2. 

This  being  the  evening  of  the  sixth  day  since  our  first    Departure 

ii  •  i       from  Patmos. 

arrival  in  Patmos,  and  perhaps  being  as  well  acquainted 
with  it  as  if  we  had  spent  a  year  in  its  examination,  we 
became  impatient  to  leave  it;  and  began  to  fancy,  that  as  our 
caique  was  hired  by  the  month,  its  owners  would  create  as 
much  delay  as  possible,  and  loiter  in  port  when  they  might 
safely  venture  out.  Accordingly,  after  midnight,  having 
roused  the  Captain,  we  told  him  that  it  was  a  fine  night, 
and  that  we  wished  he  would  put  to  sea.  This  man  was 
one  of  the  most  experienced  pilots  of  the  Archipelago,  and 
as  worthy  a  Greek  as  ever  navigated  these  seas  ;  but  we  had 
not  at  that  time  learned  to  place   the  confidence    in    him 

which 


(2)  Vid.  Luciani  Opera,  torn.  III.  p.  186.     "  Pro  lapsu  in  Salutando."    Edit.  Reitz. 
Bipont,  1790. 


374 


DEPARTURE  FROM  PATMOS. 


CHAP.  IX. 


Greek 
mariners 


which  he  highly  deserved.  He  was  very  poor ;  and  having 
become  a  widower  in  an  early  period  of  his  life,  had  suffered 
his  beard  to  grow,  according  to  the  manner  of  mourning  in 
his  native  Isle  of  Casos,  wearing  at  the  same  time  a  black 
Prognostics  of  turban.  Without  making  any  answer  to  our  proposal,  he 
continued  for  the  space  of  a  minute  looking  up  attentively, 
with  his  eyes  fixed  towards  the  zenith-  Presently  he  shook 
his  head ;  and  pointing  upwards,  with  his  arm  extended, 
asked  us,  How  we  liked  the  sky  ?  As  it  seemed  to  be  very 
clear,  and  there  were  many  stars  visible,  we  replied  that 
there  was  every  sign  of  fair  weather.  "  Do  you  not  see," 
said  he,  "  some  small  clouds,  which  now  and  then  make 
their  appearance,  and  instantly  afterwards  vanish  ?"  We 
confessed  that  we  did;  but  rather  hastily  insisted  that 
instead  of  peering  after  signs  in  the  sky,  he  should  get  the 
vessel  out  of  harbour  as  speedily  as  possible.  His  only 
comment  upon  this  order,  so  inconsiderately  given,  was  a 
summons  to  his  companions  to  heave  the  anchor,  and  hoist 
the  sails.  We  had  barely  light  enough  to  steer  through 
the  narrow  channel  at  the  entrance,  without  running 
against  the  rocks ;  and  we  had  no  sooner  cleared  the 
port,  than  it  fell  a  dead  calm.  A  prodigious  sea  tossing 
our  vessel  in  all  directions,  soon  convinced  us  of  the 
nature  of  the  birth  for  which  we  had  exchanged  our  snug 
station  but  a  few  minutes  before.  Surrounded  as  we  had 
been  by  the  lofty  cliffs  of  the  island,  we  had  not  the 
most  distant  conception  of  the  turbulent  sea  we  should 
encounter.  Our  steady  helmsman  endeavoured  in  vain  to 
keep  the  prow  of  his  vessel  to  any  particular  point ;    and 

calling 


DEPARTURE  FROM  PATMOS. 

calling  to  our  interpreter,  bade  him  notice  what  he  termed 
in  Greek  "  the  belching  of  the  deep."    This  happens  during 
the  roll  of  a  calm,  when  a  wave,  lifted  to  a  great  height, 
suddenly  subsides,  with  a  deep  and  hollow  sound,   like  air 
bursting    through   a    narrow  channel.     Our   apprehensions 
had    already  got    the    better    of   our   indifference    to    such 
observations  ;    and   in   a  very  different  tone  of  voice  from 
that  in    which    we    had    ordered    him    out    of    port,     we 
asked   the  Captain,  What  that  noise  denoted  ?    He  calmly 
replied,   that  it  was  generally  considered  as  a  bad  omen; 
but  that  he   more    disliked   the  appearance  which   he  had 
desired  us  to  notice  before  we  left  the  harbour.     Being  by 
this  time  heartily  sick  of  our  usurped  authority,   we  begged 
that   he    would    be   guided    in   future   by    the    dictates    of 
his  own  experience,  and  further   requested  that  he  would 
put  back  into   port.     This  he   affirmed  to  be   impossible ; 
and  that  he  would  not  venture  towards  a  lee- shore  during 
the   night   for  any  consideration.     We  prepared   therefore 
to  suffer,  as  we  had  deserved,   for  our  extreme    folly  and 
rashness,  and,  strange  as   it  may  seem,   not  without  many 
an  anxious  thought  for  the  antient  Manuscripts  we  had  on 
board.     The    crew    lighted    a    wax    taper   before    a    small 
picture  of  some  Saint  in  the  foreship,  as  we  occupied  all 
the   after-part   of  the    hold    with    our    cots    and    baggage. 
Here,    when    we   endeavoured    to    lie   down   for    rest,   we 
were  over-run  by  swarms  of  stinking  cock-roaches ' ;   we 

remained 


375 


CHAP.  IX. 


(l)  Blatta  Orientalis.  Linn.  The  modern  Greeks  call  it  Katsarida.  According 
to  Sonnini,  they  consecrate  the  festival  of  St.  Gregory  to  these  disgusting  and  troublesome 
insects.    Trav.  in  Greece,  p.  185.    Lond.  1801. 


376  DEPARTURE  FROM  PATMOS. 

chap.  ix.  remained  therefore  sitting  upon  some  planks  that  we  had 
placed  to  serve  as  a  floor,  with  our  heads  touching  the 
roof  which  the  deck  afforded,  sustaining  the  violent  motion 
of  the  vessel,  and  anxiously  expecting  the  coming  of  the 
morning. 


rrkb.'Mu  ,«.._l. 


PATMOS  TO   P-AROS. 

Gale  of  wind — Ifessel  driven  to  the  south  of  Naxos — Panormo — 
Independent  Shepherds — appearance  of  the  island  —  Minerals 
— Naxian  Boccaze — Toivn  of  Naxos — Manuscripts — Inhabitants — 
Population — Antiquities  —  Inscriptions —  Sculpture — Medals — Gems 
— Colossal  Statue — Temple  of  Bacchus — Other  Ruins — Smeriglio — 
Arrival  at  Paros — Parechia — Castle — Inscriptions — Ship  stranded — 
Antiparos — Grotto — its  possible  origin — mode  of  descent — description  of 
the  interior — Nature  of  the  Stalactites — manner  of  their  deposition — 
Paradoxical  Phccnomena — Crystallization  of  Alabaster — Arragonite 
— Visit  of  the  French  Ambassador — Oliarcs — Antient  Quarries  of 
Parian  Marble — Marpessus — Cause  of  the  prevalence  of  Parian 
Marble  in  Grecian  Sculpture — Marvellous  skill  of  the  Antients  in 
zvorking  the  Quarries — Bas-relief— Explanation  of  the  Inscription — 
Origin  of  the  work — Evidence  it  affords — Theory  of  Crystallization. 

.Tor  some  time  after  leaving  the  port,  we  endeavoured,  by 

hoisting    canvas,    to    avail  ourselves  of  the  short  gusts  of 

vol.  in.  3  c  land- 


chap.  x. 


Gale  of  wind. 


ISLAND   OF  NAXOS.  ? 

land-wind  that  came   from    the   east   during   the    calm;   a 
heavy  and  unsteady  sea  rolling.     Afterwards,  a  light  breeze 
prevailing  from  that  quarter,  we  were  enabled  to  stand  over 
to  Icaria ;  where  we  were  entirely  becalmed  :  and  the  usual 
alarm  taking  place,  as  to  pirates  upon  the  coast,  we  hauled 
ofF  with  our  oars.    Towards  morning,  a  fresh  wind  sprung 
from  the  north-west,  accompanied  by  flashes  of  lightning ; 
and  we  directed  the  prow  of  our   caique  towards   Naxos. 
As  the  sun  rose,  the  sky  bore  a  very  angry  aspect ;  the  horizon 
being  of  the  deepest  crimson,  interspersed  with  dark  clouds. 
We  soon  perceived  that  the  prediction  made  by  the  Casiot 
master  of  our  vessel  would  be  fulfilled,  and  that  we  should 
encounter  a  storm.    The  high  land  of  Icaria  sheltered  us 
until  we  got  farther  towards  the  south-west ;  when  the  gale 
freshened,   and    came   upon    us    with    such    violence,    that 
we   could    not    keep  our   course.      All  our   endeavours    to 
beat    to   windward,  so   as   to  weather   the   northern    point 
of  Naxos,  and   bear   down  the  strait  between  that   island 
and    Paros,    were    ineffectual  :    we   fell    fast    to    leeward ; 
and  getting  among   some   rocks   upon   the  eastern   side   of 
Naxos,    the  foresail    was    carried   away.     The    first  notice 
that   we    received  of   this    accident,    came    with    a  wave, 
which    broke     over     the   caique,     and    almost    filled     our 
birth  :    it  was    fortunate   that    those  upon  deck   were  not 
washed  overboard.     We  made  our  way  up  as  well  as  we 
could,   expecting  every  instant  that  something  more  serious 
would  happen.     The  waves  ran   mountains  high,  and  the 
caique  would  not  answer  to  her  helm.     During  the  delay 
caused  by  getting  the  foresail  repaired,  we  shipped   water 

continually; 


ISLAND    OF   NAXOS 

continually;  and  being  obliged  to  take  the  gale  in  poop,  such 
a  sea  followed  us,  that  there  was  reason  to  fear,  if  the 
mainsail  gave  way,  the  vessel  would  founder.  When 
matters  were  somewhat  rectified,  we  steered  for  a  narrow 
channel  between  some  high  rocks  and  the  eastern  side  of 
the  island:  it  seemed  rather  like  flying  than  sailing:  our 
little  caique  ran  over  the  curling  tops  of  the  highest  waves, 
without  shipping  any  more  water.  This  was  remarked  by 
our  undaunted  Captain,  stationed  with  his  crew  at  the  helm, 
who  exclaimed,  "  Let  us  see  one  of  your  frigates  in  such  a  sea 
as  this  :  there  is  not  one  of  them  could  weather  it  like  my 
little  caique  ! "  We  passed  like  lightning  within  a  cable's 
length  of  some  dreadful  rocks,  over  which  the  sea  was  dashing 
as  high  as  our  mast  head;  until  getting  under  the  lee,  to  the 
south  of  Naxos,  we  ran  the  vessel  aground,  close  to  a  small 
creek,  upon  some  white  sand. 

Within  this  creek  another  small  bark  had  taken  shelter; 
the  crew  of  which,  seeing  our  situation,  came  to  assist  our 
Captain  in  getting  his  caique  off  the  sand,  and  in  hauling 
her  farther  up  the  creek,  in  which  they  happily  succeeded. 
We  then  cast  anchor,  and  began  to  examine  the  state  of 
our  baggage.  Like  true  shipwrecked  mariners,  wet  to  the 
skin,  and  without  a  dry  thread  on  board,  we  opened  all  our 
stores  upon  the  rocks,  to  expose  our  clothes  in  the  beams  of 
the  sun.  Every  article  of  our  linen  was  completely  soaked; 
but,  to  our  great  joy,  the  Manuscripts  had  escaped,  and  were 
safe.  We  had  put  them  into  a  small,  but  stout  wooden  box, 
in  the  stern  of  the  vessel;  and  had  covered  this  with  every 
article  of  canvas,  &c.  that  could  be  collected. 

The 


Vessel  driven 
to  the  south 
of  Naxoe. 


'■-,'v-i-.\*-i«      ■  ■    \*£*P 


380 


CHAP.  X. 


Panormo. 


Independent 
Shepherds. 


ISLAND   OF  NAXOS. 

The  gale  continuing  from  the  same  quarter,  and  with  the 
force  of  a  hurricane,  we  were  detained  here  during  this 
and  the  following  day.  It  is  surprising  for  what  a 
length  of  time,  and  how  often,  the  north-west  rages  in  the 
Archipelago.  It  prevails,  almost  unceasingly,  through  the 
greater  part  of  the  year.  After  sunset  there  is  generally  a 
calm,  which  is  succeeded  by  light  breezes  from  the  land, 
especially  from  mountains  surrounding  gulphs  ;  but  at  sun- 
rise the  north-west  begins  again1.  The  little  creek  in  which 
our  vessel  found  shelter  is  called,  by  the  islanders,  the  Bay 
of  Panormo,  and  there  are  some  insignificant  ruins  upon  the 
rocks  above  it,  which  they  call  Panormo  Castle*.  The  only  in- 
habitants we  saw  were  parties  of  men  leading  uninterruptedly 
a  pastoral  life,  without  paying  any  tax,  either  to  the  island 
or  to  the  Turkish  government:  we  found  them  tending  their 
sheep  and  goats  in  this  wild  part  of  Naxos,  like  a  race  of 
primeval   shepherds3.     They  brought  us  some  sheep   soon 

after 


(1)  Mr.  Spenser  Smith,  brother  of  Sir  Sidney  Smith,  informed  the  author  that  he 
was  an  entire  month  employed  in  endeavouring  to  effect  a  passage  from  Rhodes  to 
Stanchio:  the  north-west  wind  prevailed  all  the  time  with  such  force,  that  the  vessel 
in  which  he  sailed  could  not  double  Cape  Crio. 

(2)  Tonrnefort  mentions  this  little  harbour,  under  the  name  of  Panormo.  {Voy.  du 
Levant,  torn.  I.  p.  248.  Lyon,  171/-)  None  of  the  ports  of  Naxos  are  proper  for  the 
reception  of  large  vessels,  and  therefore  it  is  that  Tavernier  says  the  island  has  no  ports. 

(3)  According  to  Herodotus,  the  most  antient  inhabitants  of  Naxos  were  a  race  of 
Ionians.  Aristotle  relates,  that  the  most  wealthy  of  them  lived  in  the  town,  and  thst 
the  rest  were  scattered  about,  among  the  villages,  in  different  parts  of  the  island.  A 
very  antient  Inscription  found  near  the  base  of  Zia  (AIA),  the.  principal  mountain, 
which  is  preserved  by  Spon  and  by  Tournefort,  will  prove  that  the  pastures  of  Naxcs 
had  invited  shepherds  in  a  very  ca.ly  age.    It  consists  only  of  three  words.  OPO^  AIOS 

.  MEAJ1XIOV,  "'  Mountain  of  Jupiter,  Guardian  of  Flocks."     The  title  of  Shepherd,  is 

applied 


ISLAND  OF   NAXOS. 

after  our  arrival ;  descending  the  rocks  with  their  bare  feet, 
and  wearing  upon  their  legs  the  cothurnus,  in  its  most 
antient  form,  made  of  the  undressed  skins  of  their  goats, 
with  the  hair  on  the  outside.  Whence  they  came,  or  who  they 
were,  we  could  not  learn ;  for  they  said  they  had  little  con- 
nection with  any  of  the  villages  of  the  island,  nor  any  settled 
place  of  residence ;  that  they  had  neither  wives  nor  houses ; 
sleeping  at  night  behind  some  bush,  in  the  open  air,  and 
labouring  merely  for  subsistence,  without  a  thought  of  riches. 
They  had  all  the  same  kind  of  clothing  :  it  consisted  of  a 
woollen  jacket,  and  short  trowsers,  of  their  own  manufacture, 
partly  concealing  the  cothurnus  of  goat's  hair  upon  their  legs. 
They  cover  their  heads  with  a  red  scull-cap,  which  is  manu- 
factured at  Venice4.  Reckoning  their  goats  and  sheep 
together,  these  independent  shepherds  have  five  or  six 
hundred    animals   in  each  flock.     They  shear  their    sheep 

twice 

applied  to  the  Deity,  is  of  great  antiquity.  It  is  often  found  in  Scripture.  "  Give  ear, 
O  thou  Shepherd  of  Israel!"  (Psalm  Ixxx.  1.)  "The  Lord  is  my  Shepherd 
—  He  m.yketh  me  to  lie  down  in  green  pastures  :  he  lkadeth  me  beside 
the   still   waters."      Psalm  xxiii.  J,  2. 

(4)  This  part  of  the  modern  Greek  and  Albanian  dress  is  the  most  antient :  it  may 
be  observed  upon  a  Bas-relief  of  the  highest  antiquity,  near  to  Orchomenos  in 
Boeotia :  it  is  still  worn  throughout  Albania,  and  among  all  the  Grecian  Isles,  as  it 
was  by  their  ancestors;  and  by  the  Byzantine  Emperors.  It  is  common  also  to  the 
Turks,  from  the  Grand  Signior  to  the  meanest  slave,  who  wear  it  beneath  the  turban  : 
and  the  portrait  of  Manuel  Palaeologus  (exhibiting  this  cap  with  the  addition  only  of 
ornamental  gems  about  it)  which  was  engraven  as  a  Vignette  to  the  First  Chapter  of 
the  former  Section,  was  placed  there  expressly  to  shew,  that  the  Turks  in  their 
domestic  habits  (when  it  is  s;ometimes  usual  for  them,  as  destitute  of  ceremony,  to 
take  oft'  their  turban)  do  exhibit  a  costume  precisely  corresponding  with  the  appearance 
presented  by  that  portrait.  Persons  who  have  never  seen  the  Turks  except  upon 
occasions  of  ceremony,  when  their  heads  are  covered  by  high  calpacks  and  by  turbans, 

and 


381 


CHAP.  X. 


«*?«*  s^r? 


382 


CHAP  .  X. 


Appearance 
of  the  Island. 


ISLAND   OF   NAXOS. 

twice  a  year;  putting  the  rams  to  the  ewes  in  May,  and 
removing  them  when  the  latter  begin  to  lamb.  They  speak 
the  modern  Greek  language;  and  perhaps  recruit  their 
numbers  from  the  race  of  Albanians  which  is  scattered  over 
all  Greece.  They  told  us  that  they  made  three  or  four  hun- 
dred piastres  annually,  out  of  a  flock  of  five  hundred  sheep 
and  goats :  and  this  sum  they  spend  in  the  few~  necessaries 
or  indulgences  they  may  require.  We  killed  and  dressed 
one  of  their  sheep  :  the  mutton  had  a  very  bad  flavour. 

The  island  has  no  port  on  its  eastern  side :  it  is  there 
mountainous,  but  the  soil  is  black  and  barren.  The  rocks 
in  this  part  of  it  consist  of  alternate  strata  of  schistus  and 
limestone.  We  noticed  a  stratum  of  primary  limestone, 
surmounted  by  schistus;  and  above  that  was  a  layer  of  a 
soft  kind  of  Cipolino  marble,  striped  blue  and  white.  The 
next  day,  October  the  sixteenth,  we  landed  to  collect  plants, 
and  to  examine  the  traces  of  buildings  above  this  little 
bay,  which  may  be  called  Panormo  Creek,  for  it  merits  no 
higher  consideration.  We  found  the  remains  of  walls,  built 
above  precipices,  in  which  cement  had  been  used;  and 
noticed  a  door,  with  a  small  room  that  had  once  been  stuccoed. 
In  a  rude  chapel,  which  the  shepherds  had  constructed  of 
loose  stones,  we  observed  the  fragment  of  an  antique  marble; 
but,   upon   the   whole,    these  works   had    much    more  the 

appearance 

and  who  do  not  therefore  remark  the  antient  and  common  covering  for  the  head  which 
is  below  these,  will  not  perceive  any  resemblance  between  the  figure  of  a  modern 
Sultan  and  the  portrait  of  Manuel  Palaeologus ;  although  nothing  can  be  more  striking; 
for  they  have  the  same  characteristic  aquiline  features,  the  same  length  of  visage  and  of 
beard,  and  the  same  covering  of  the  crown  on  the  head. 


ISLAND   OF  NAXOS.  383 

appearance  of  buildings  hastily  constructed  by  pirates,  than  ,  chap. x- , 
by  anv  people  acquainted  with  architectural  science.  We 
noticed  some  caves  near  the  shore  ;  and  it  is  probable  that 
this  obscure  and  almost  unknown  retreat  has  offered  an 
occasional  asylum  to  some  of  the  numerous  corsairs  of  the 
Archipelago.  After  this,  our  botanical  excursions  led  us  a 
short  distance  into  the  interior,  over  a  barren  district, 
"jitter"  as  Tournefort  said  of  the  whole  island1,  "  to  inspire 
sadness  than  joy."  We  saw  neither  fixed  inhabitants,  nor  any 
mark  of  cultivation2.  The  high  rocks  above  the  creek  were 
covered  with  the  blossoms  of  a  species  of  Cyclamen,  probably 
the  autumnale  of  Ray3:  we  collected  a  great  number  of 
these,  and  several  bulbous- rooted  plants,  particularly  one 
with  a  small  and  very  elegant  white  flower,  which  we 
thought  was  new,  but  the  specimens  were  afterwards  injured 
or  lost.  We  could  not  find  Tournefort's  Heliotropium  humi- 
fusum4;  we  had  seen  it  often  in  the  Holy  Land,  and  wished 
to  observe  the  change  that  might  be  effected  by  such  a 
difference  of  situation.  The  mineralogy  of  this  island  Minerals, 
promises  to  be  highly  interesting,  when  an  opportunity  is 
offered   to  any  naturalist  for  its  investigation  ;   but  where 

there 


(1)  "  Elle  nous  parut  d'abord  plus  propre  a  inspirer  de  la  tristesse  que  de  la  joye." 
Voyage  du  Levant,  torn.  I.  p.  254.    Lyon,  1 717- 

(2)  Count  de  Choiseul  Gouffier  gave  a  very  different  description  of  the  north  part  of 
the  island.  "  Si  Ton  avance  dans  les  terres,  on  trouve  des  vallees  delicieuses,  arrosees  de 
mille  ruisseaux,  et  des  forets  d'orangers,  de  figuiers,  et  de  grenadiers.  La  terre  par  sa 
feconditc  semble  prevenir  tons  les  besoins  de  ses  habitans;  elle  nourrit  un  grande  quan- 
tlte  de  bestiaux,  de  gibier.  Le  ble,  l'huile,  les  figues,  et  le  vin,  y  sont  toujours  abondans. 
On  y  recueille  aussi  de  la  soie."    Voyage  Pittoresque  de  la  Grece,  p.  41.    Paris,  1782. 

(3)  Raii  Hist.  1200'. 

(4)  Tournef."  ibid.  p.  265. 


384 


CHAP.  X. 


ISLAND   OF   NA&OS. 

there  are  no  mines,  the  mere  traveller,  examining  only  those 
excavations  which  Nature  carries  on,  has  little  chance  of 
adding  greatly  to  his  stock  of  knowledge.  The  Geologist, 
attending  only  to  aggregation,  may  fare  better  in  the 
midst  of  the  compound  masses  which  are  everywhere  pre- 
sented to  his  view.  A  species  of  breccia  was  found  here, 
called  Ophites  by  the  antient  Greeks,  which  may  have  been 
the  Verde  antico;  it  is  described  as  of  a  green  colour,  spotted 
with  white.  From  the  position  of  the  strata,  as  before 
noticed,  this  compound  may  frequently  occur,  where  the 
layers  of  schistus  and  marble  meet,  and  where  the  schistus 
is  either  of  a  green  colour  itself,  or  contains  green  serpentine. 
It  has  been  also  pretended  that  gold  ores  exist  in  the  island, 
but  that  the  inhabitants  carefully  conceal  the  secret  of  their 
locality,  through  fear  of  being  compelled  by  the  Turks  to 
work  those  ores.  The  famous  Emery  of  Naxos  is  situated 
in  an  opposite  part  of  the  island,  towards  the  north- 
west :  the  author  has  ever  since  regretted  that  his  rough 
treatment  at  sea  entirely  banished  from  his  recollection  all 
thought  of  this  important  part  of  the  natural  history  of 
Naxos  ;  and  he  has  the  more  regretted  his  inattention  to  it, 
as  we  are  entirely  ignorant  of  the  geological  position,  asso- 
ciation, and  matrix  of  Emery.  Since  the  celebrated  Tennant 
hasdiscovered  its  relationship  to  Corundum',  independently 
of  its  consequence  in  a  commercial  view,  and  of  its  con- 
nection with  antient  history,  it  is  peculiarly  entitled  to  notice. 
The  matrix  of  the  Corundum  of  the  Carnatic  is  a  stone  of  a 

peculiar 


(l)  See  the  Communication  read  to  the  Royal  Society,  July  1,  1802,  on  the  compo- 
sition of  Emery,  by  Sinithson  Tennant,  F.  R.  S. 


L**ti»feU^»» 


ISLAND    OF  NAXOS.1 

peculiar  nature,  resembling  the  Naxian  marble*.  The 
crystals  of  Corundum  are  dispersed  in  it  in  the  same  manner 
as  those  of  feldspar  are  disposed  in  porphyry5.  The  author 
has  succeeded  in  obtaining,  by  the  accidental  fracture  of  the 
compact  emery  of  Naxos,  as  regular  an  hexagonal  form  as 
that  which  may  be  noticed  in  the  Corundum  of  the  Mysore  : 
nor  is  it  unreasonable  to  infer,  as  a  probability,  that  Telesia, 
or  perfect  Corundum,  under  the  forms  exhibited  by  the 
Oriental  sapphire  and  Oriental  ruby,  may  be  found  by 
future  travellers  in  the  mines  of  emery  at  Naxos.  Tournefort 
relates,  that  in  his  time  those  mines  were  situated  at  the 
bottom  of  a  valley,  beyond  a  place  called  Perato,  in  the 
territory  of  the  French  Consul;  but  that  the  inhabitants 
find  emery  as  they  plough  the  earth,  and  carry  it  down  to  the 
sea  coast,  where  the  English  did  often  ballast  their  ships  with 
it ;  and  it  was  so  cheap,  that  twenty-eight  hundred  weight 
of  it  might  be  purchased  for  a  crown4.  Dapper  says,  that  a 
cape  on  the  north-west  side  of  the  island  takes  its  name 
from  this  stone  .  Almost  all  the  emery  of  commerce  comes 
from  Naxos.  The  island  has  been  celebrated  for  ages  in 
being  the  peculiar  deposit  of  this  remarkable  mineral.  Pliny, 
in    the    description  he   has   given   of  a  green   stone  which 

the 


385 


CHXP   \. 


(2)  "  It  is  similar,"  says  the  Count  de  Bournon,  "  to  the  kind  of  marble  known  by 
the  name  of  Coarse-grained  Saline  Marble."  (See  Bournon  on  the  Corundum  Stone, 
p.  50.    Lond.  1802.)     This  description  answers  to  the  marble  of  Naxos. 

(3)  See  Bournon,  &c.  as  above. 

(4)  Tournef.  Voy.  du  Levant,  torn.  I.  p.  263.    Lyon,  171 7. 

(5)  Capo  Smeriglio;  the  Italians  calling  emery,  Srneriglio,  or  Smerillo.  See  Dapper, 
Isles  de  VArchipel.  p.  350.    Amst.  1703. 

VOL.  III.  3  D 


386 


CH\P.  X. 


Naxian 
Boccaze. 


ISLAND  OF  NAXOS. 

the  Antients  called  topaz,  says  it  was  the  only  gem  that 
admitted  the  impression  of  a  file;  that  all  other  gems  were 
polished  by  means  of  the  grin  ding- stones  of  Naxos ' :  and,  in  a 
preceding  part  of  his  work,  he  speaks  of  Naxium  as  used  in 
polishing  marble  and  gems2.  The  shepherds  told  us  that 
wild  honey  is  found  in  great  abundance  in  this  island  :  the 
children  set  out  in  parties  to  collect  it,  as  in  the  other  islands 
of  the  Archipelago.  From  the  rocks  above  Panormo  Creek, 
we  had  a  fine  view  of  the  great  cluster  of  islands  lying 
towards  the  south-east. 

On  Saturday,  October  the  seventeenth,  at  sun-rise,  we  got 
under  weigh,  with  a  light  breeze  from  the  north-west,  and 
steered  for  the  south  of  the  boccaze,  or  strait,  between  this 
island  and  Paros.  In  passing  up  the  channel,  we  were  obliged 
to  use  our  oars  ;  but  by  ten  o'  clock  a.  m.  we  came  to  anchor 
in  the  port,  close  to  the  town  of  Naxos,  having  nearly  com- 
pleted the  tour  of  the  whole  island.  We  found  only  a  few 
boats  in  the  harbour.  The  Greek  sailors  still  preserve  the 
custom,  mentioned  by  Homer,  of  hauling  their  vessels  on  the 
shore,  with  the  prows  resting  upon  the  beach  :  having  done 
this,  they  place  the  mast  lengthwise  across  the  prow  and  the 
poop,  and  spread  the  sail  over  it,  so  as  to  form  a  tent ;  then 
beneath  these  tents  they  sing  their  songs,  drinking  wine 
freely,    and  accompanying    their  voices   with   the    lyre   or 

three- 


(1)  "  Eadem  sola  nobilium  limam  sentit :   ceterse  Naxiis  cotibus  poliuntur."     Plin. 
Hist.  Nat.  lib.  xxxvii.  c.  8.  torn.  III.  p.  542.    L.  Bat.  1035. 

(2)  "  Signis  e  marmore  poliendis.    gemmisque   etiam  scalpendis    atque    limandis 
Naxium  diu  placuit  ante  alia."     Ibid.  lib.  xxxvi,  c.  7.  torn.  III.  p.  478. 


■ 


RrT.'*"  *-*•.•■»-,., 


ISLAND  OF  NAXOS. 


3^7 


CHAP  X. 


three-stringed    viol :    such    a    concert   greeted   our   arri\aL 
Being  told  that  a  Latin  archbishop  resided  in  the  place,  we 
paid  him  a  visit.    The  town  makes  a  neat  appearance  from  the    Town  of 
harbour,  but  has  altogether  the  character  of  an  antient  Greet 
city  when    it  is   entered  ;   the  streets  being  irregular,  deep, 
narrow,   and    dirty.     We  found  upon  the   mart,   near  the 
shore,  large  heaps  of  the  most  enormous  green  citrons  we  had 
ever  seen,  ready  to  be  removed  on  board  some  boats  waiting 
to  convey  this  kind  of  freightage  to  Constantinople.    They 
are  valued  principally  for  their  very  thick  rind,  of  which  a 
green   sweetmeat   is  prepared :   but   we  could   hardly  have 
credited  an   account  of  the  size  to  which  this  fruit  here 
attains.     Some   of  these  citrons   were  as  large  as  a  man's 
head,   and  of  the  most  singular  forms ;   consisting  almost 
wholly  of  the  rind,   with  very  little  juice  in  any  of  them. 
The  archbishop   received  us  very  politely,  and  prepared  a 
dinner  for  us  ;  but  we  begged  to  make  the  best  use  of  our 
time,  and  therefore  declined  his  invitation.     By  his  kindness 
we  were  admitted  to  the  churches,  which  have  the  privilege 
of  being  furnished  with  bells,  as  at  Patmos.    A  Greek  priest, 
in  answer  to  our  inquiry  for  Manuscripts,  produced  from     Manuscript*. 
beneath  an  altar,  lying  upon  the  damp  pavement  of  one  of 
the  sanctuaries,  a  quarto  Codex  of  selections  from  the  Gospels, 
written  upon  vellum  for  the  use  of  the  Greek  Church :  this, 
as  usual,  had  been  condemned  as  soon  as  a  printed  copy 
had  supplied  its  place.    We  easily  contrived  to  purchase  it; 
and  afterwards  obtained,  for  a  small  sum,  by  means  of  the 
same  priest,  a   similar  Manuscript,  apparently  of  the  same 

age, 


wBBfflBBS^agBaam 


»*V*S»<t 


388 

CHAP.  X. 


Inhabitants. 


ISLAND   OF  NAXOS. 

age.  from  one  of  the  Greek  families  in  the  place1.  In 
this  manner  antient  copies  of  the  Gospels  may  be  procured 
in  the  Archipelago,  by  persons  who  will  be  at  the  pains  to 
seek  for  them ;  as,  in  our  own  country,  the  rarest  English 
editions  of  the  Scriptures  may  be  found  in  counties  at  a 
distance  from  the  metropolis,  where  they  have  either  been 
banished  from  the  churches  to  make  way  for  more  modern 
Bibles,  or  laid  up  in  store-rooms  as  waste  paper  in  private 
families,  being  too  antiquated  and  inelegant  in  their  appear- 
ance for  the  taste  of  the  owners2. 

The  want  of  a  proper  port  for  large  'shipping  has  saved 
Naxos  from  many  a  visit  on  the  part  of  the  Turks.  We 
were  told  that  not  i.  single  Mahometan  could  be  found  in 
the  whole  island,  and  that  many  of  the  inhabitants  of  the 
interior  had  never  seen  a  Turk  ;  but  they  sometimes  ex- 
perience the  honour  of  a  call  from  their  masters,  en  passant ; 
and  then,  "  upon  the  arrival  of  the  meanest  commander  of  a 
galliot,"  says  Tournefort3,  "  neither  Latins  nor  Greeks  ever 
dare  appear  but  in  red  caps,  like  the  common  galley-slaves, 
humbling  themselves  before  the  pettiest  officer."  As  soon 
as  the  Turks  have  left  them,  nothing  is  to  be  heard 
but  tables  of  their  genealogy ;  some  deducing  their  origin 

from 

(1)  These  are  the  same  Manuscripts  mentioned  by  Professor  Gaisford,  Nos.  47,  48. 
p.  100.  of  his  Catalogue.     Oxon.  1812. 

(2)  The  author  has  seen  old  black-letter  Bibles  discarded  in  the  chests  of  country 
churches  j  and  once  found  a  copy  of  Miles  Coverdales  revised  translation  of  the  Scriptures 
in  the  hands  of'  a  Welch  housekeeper  who  was  preparing  to  use  it  in  covering  preserves. 

(3)  Tournef.  Voy.  du  Levant.   Lett.  V.  torn.  I.   p.  257.    Lyon,  1717. 


ISLAND  OF  NAXOS. 


389 


from  the  Paleologi,  or  from   the  Cwnnenii ;  others  from  the 
noblest  Venetian  families*.    The  island  was  for  three  hundred 
years  the  residence  of  princes  appointed  by  the  Venetians  as 
Dukes  of  the  Archipelago ;  from  the  beginning  of  the  thir- 
teenth century,  when  the  Emperor  Henry  gave  this  title  to 
Marco  Sanudo,  until  the  expulsion  by  the  Turks,  under  Selim 
the  second,   of  Giacomo   Crispo,    the   twenty- first  and  last 
duke.     It  is  owing  to  this  circumstance  that  the  Venetian 
costume   still  exists  among  the  Latin  ladies.     That  of  the 
Greek  women  is  very  remarkable ;    but  it  has  been  already 
described  and  accurately  represented  in  Tournefort's  Travels5. 
We  were   unable  to  resist  the  hospitable  importunity  with 
which  some  of  the  inhabitants  invited  us  into  their  dwellings; 
and  might 'have  sacrificed  the  wrhole  of  our  time  in  going 
from  house  to  house,    to    be  regaled   with   lemonade   and 
sweetmeats.     Some  of  the  ladies  were  very  anxious  to  be 
informed  how  the  women  of  our  island  passed  their  time; 
and  whether  the  rich  dresses  of  the  Naxian  women  accorded 
with   the   habits   of  English    females    of  distinction.     We 
told  them  that  English  ladies  of  elevated  rank  aimed  only  at 
simplicity  in  their  dress;   that,  in   our  commercial  country, 
wealth  was  very  often  on  the  side  of  low  birth ;  and,  con- 
sequently,   that  expensive  habits  and  costly  ornaments,  so 
far  from    being    the  distinguishing   characteristics   of  high 
breeding,  were  generally  considered  as  marks  of  vulgarity; 
that  the  wives  and  daughters  of  our  nobility  wore  the  plainest, 

and 


chap.  x. 


(4)  Tournef.  ibid. 

(5)  Ibid.  p.  228. 


390  ISLAND  OF  NAXOS. 

*. ( ,up,x'i  and  generally  the  cheapest,  apparel.  Still  their  curiosity  was 
not  satisfied  :  they  wished  we  would  tell  them  of  what  mate- 
rials the  dresses  consisted;  and  whether  any  thing  of  the  kind 
could  be  had  at  Malta,  or  Constantinople  :  and  in  the  evident 
desire  which  they  betrayed  of  imitating  the  London  mode, 
we  were  amused  in  thinking  what  sort  of  a  metamorphosis 
would  be  effected  by  the  arrival  of  an  English  woman  of 
rank  at  Naxos  :  what  discarding  of  brocade,  and  coloured 
velvet,  and  embroidered  vests,  for  British  muslin  and  stuffs  : 
what  scrambling  for  a  few  pieces  of  crape  and  cambric,  if 
such  merchandize  should  arrive  in  the  midst  of  the  revolution: 
how  all  the  old  family  wardrobes,  which  had  been  handed 
down  in  form  and  substance  from  the  Justinianis,  the 
Grimaldis,  and  the  Summaripas1,  would  give  place  to  the 
simplest  English  costume.  As  we  had  a  variety  of  other 
business  to  claim  our  attention,  during  the  short  stay  we 
intended  to  make,  we  put  an  end  to  a  chain  of  inquiries  that 
redoubled  after  every  answer,  by  promising  to  send  all  the 
latest  modes  by  the  earliest  opportunity,  either  from  Paris 
or  London, 

Population.  The  population  has  not  been  altered  since  Naxos  was 

visited  by  Tournefort :  that  of  the  whole  island,  including 
the  women,  may  be  estimated  at  eighteen  thousand  persons: 
about  three  thousand  of  this  number  are  Latins,  and  the  rest 
are  Greeks.  During  war,  they  pay  forty  purses  as  a  tax  tc 
the  Turkish  Government,  each  purse  being  equivalent   tc 

five 


(l)  See  Tournefort,  p.  257.  torn.  I.    Lyon,  1717- 


ISLAND   OF  NAXOS. 

live  hundred  piastres.  In  time  of  peace  very  little  impost  is 
levied.  Their  wine  maintains  its  pristine  celebrity,  and  we 
thought  it  excellent.  The  Latin  families  live  together  in 
the  castle,  or  fortress,  separated  from  the  Greeks,  not  only  by 
situation,  but  by  numberless  petty  feuds  and  jealousies. 
We  found  fragments  of  a  red  porphyry  here,  much  resem- 
bling lava.  In  the  evening  it  rained,  which  was  quite  a  novel 
spectacle  to  us  at  that  time.  The  archbishop  had  again  pre- 
pared his  table  for  us  ;  and,  as  we  had  refused  his  dinner,  we 
went  to  sup  with  him.  He  had  also  provided  beds  and  every 
other  necessary  convenience  for  our  accommodation;  but  as 
the  impossibility  of  making  any  adequate  return  for  such 
civilities  is  often  a  painful  reflection  upon  these  occasions,  we 
determined  to  rough  it  out,  as  usual,  in  our  caique.  The 
Greek  houses  of  every  description,  it  is  true,  swarm  with 
vermin  ;  but  we  could  not  pique  ourselves  upon  the  supe- 
riority of  our  accommodation  on  board,  even  in  this  respect, 
from  the  swarms  of  cock- roaches  by  which  we  were 
infested  :  and  some  rats,  the  athlctce  of  their  kind,  during 
the  last  night  that  we  remained  in  Panormo  Bay,  actually 
carried  off,-  not  only  the  author's  book  of  plants,  filled  with 
specimens,  but  also  a  weighty  Turkish  poignard,  tied  up 
within  it,  used  for  the  double  purpose  of  digging  roots,  and 
as  a  weapon  of  defence. 

Early  the  next  day  we  landed  to  seek  for  some  remains    Antiquities. 
of  the  antient  city,  which  was   nearly  in  the  situation  of 
the  modern   town.     The  antiquities  of  Naxos  relate  almost 
exclusively  to  the  worship  of  Bacchus.    The  inhabitants  are 
still  much  addicted  to  drinking,  and  every  medal  and  gem 

of 


CHAP.  X. 


392  ISLAND  OF  NAXOS. 

of  the  island  prove  how  prevalent  the  rites  of  Bacchus  once 
were.  This  god  is  represented  bearded  upon  all  the  Naxian 
coins  and  signets.  We  obtained  several,  which  we  shall 
presently  describe.  Below  the  window  of  a  house  belonging- 
inscriptions,  to  the  Chancellor  of  Naxos,  we  found  an  Inscription,  upon 
the  capital  of  a  column,  of  an  order  in  architecture  unknown 
to  us.  It  was  discovered  by  a  monk,  who  was  digging  for 
building  materials  among  the  remains  of  the  antient  city:  he 
found  the  shaft  of  the  column  near  to  it,  and  a  small  antique 
lamp  of  terra-cotta.  The  pillar  itself  was*  in  all  probability, 
a  sepulchral  steU.  The  inscription  is  hardly  worth  pre- 
serving, as  it  contains  only  a  few  names;  but  one  is  unwilling 
to  neglect  the  preservation  of  any  Grecian  relique,  and 
especially  where  few  are  found. 


XAIHTOZKAI 

HPOAOYKAiZE 

AEYKOYKriOAXP 

OY 


AIOTENOY 
K  Al 

AM  MilNlOY 


n  po  i^oz  n  po 

KAOYKAI  A  AE 
•AN APOYKAI 
HI! I  M  OY 
ZY 


We 


ISLAND  OF  NAXOS. 


393 


We  were  afterwards  shewn,  upon  the  top  of  a  house  below 
the  walls  of  the  fortress,  a  small  slab,  rather  of  Parian  than 
of  Naxian  marble  (the  grain  being  finer  than  in  the  latter) 
containing  an  inscription  of  great  antiquity :  the  letters 
were  small ;  and  they  were  exceedingly  well  cut,  like  some 
of  the  inscriptions  which  have  been  found  in  Troas,  of  the 
age  of  the  Seleucidae.  The  names  of  Aristotle,  Socrates, 
Theocritus,  and  Alexander,  inscribed  upon  the  same  marble, 
somewhat  excited  our  curiosity  ;  but,  after  all,  we  did  not 
find  a  single  fact  stated  in  this  inscription:  it  consists  only 
of  a  list  of  names ;  and  many  of  these  are  lost,  owing  to  the 
injury  the  stone  has  sustained. 

EnirYMNAZIAPXOYAnO 

KAIYnOTYM   .    .   OYZEKA  .  .  .OI 

YriEINOYTOYAriOAAO  ....  TOY.. ..  H*H  B  . . . 
ZINOI  APIZTOTEAHZAPIZTOTEAOYZ  .  .  .  <t>ANOZZftZ 
<t>ANOAIKOZZnZTPATOY.NIKAIOZM....TOYeEOrEI  .  . 
ZfiZIMOYnOAAO  .  .  .  APZIAPXOY  .  .  .  Z  I  A  Efll*  I  AOI  .  . 
nOllAIOZAPEAAIOZZKP  .    .  ^1   .    .    .    NAXEHZNEOTEPO 

EYTYXOZP.  .  .  NAIOYIIY.  .  .  n M  AKYAPIZTOAHN 

GEOKAEIAOYNEMEK  .  .   .  ITOE HZTOZIIEPITO 

0EO<M  AOZ0EOKAEI MftNNIKHPATOZ 

KTHZl4>nNTOZ EMHNNIKAIOY 

KAEftNY nOYHMEPOZ 

AHMHTPIOI  .  HPAZ ZINOI   .   .   AYAOZ 

KAIAIKIOZATA OAOZ  .  .  KAEIAOYZHZAN APOZ 

NIKANAPOYNIKANAPOZNIKAN  APOYAH  MHTPIOZ 
EniNIKOYMAPKOZnOAAIOZMAPKOYAEKMOZ 
AY<MAIOZZnOPIOYZi2KPATHZNIKIOY 
0EOKPITOZeEOKPITOYAYAOZZOA<J>IKIOZ 
AYAOYAAEZANAPOZAPTEMX2NOZAEYKIOZ 
ZEHTIAIOZZnOPIOYTPY<l>nNXAPMI 
AOY  .  .  Y  .  .  HPETHZAPTEMX2N 
vol.  in.  3  E  We 


CHAP.  X. 


CHAP.  X. 


394  ISLAND   OF  NAXOS. 

We  copied  this  inscription  with  difficulty,  being  continually 
interrupted  by  the  exorbitant  demands  of  the  woman  to 
whom  the  house  belonged.  She  positively  refused  to  sell 
the  marble,  having  a  superstitious  notion  that  it  prevented 
evil  spirits  from  coming  to  her  dwelling:  after  insisting 
upon  a  payment  of  thirty  piastres  for  a  sight  of  it,  she 
allowed  us  to  copy  it  for  a  hundred  parahs,  but  not  without 
continual  interruption,  and  the  most  clamorous  entreaty 
for  more  money. 

sculpture.  We  had  sufficient  employment  afterwards,  among  many 

valuable  antiquities.  Every  fragment  of  the  anticnt  sculpture 
of  Naxos  denoted  the  most  splendid  a?ra  of  the  art ;  but 
Bacchus  was  all  in  all.  The  fragment  of  a  marble  bust  of  the 
God,  crowned  with  vine  leaves,  was  shewn  to  us,  of  the  most 
perfect  sculpture;  but  the  price  set  upon  every  thing  proved 
our  approximation  to  western  countries,  and  that  the  inter- 
course between  this  island  and  Italy  had  taught  them  how  to 
appretiate  the  works  of  Grecian  artists.  An  antient  weight 
had  been  dug  up,  of  an  oblong  square  form,  with  its  handle, 
neatly  cut  in  marble:  this  we  brought  away:  it  weighs  exactly 
four  pounds,  seven  ounces  and  a  half.    A  Greek  had  recently 

Medals.  discovered  a  vessel  of  terra  cotta,  containing  some  small  bronze 

coins  of  Naxos,  of  the  finest  die,  exhibiting  the  head  of  the 
bearded  Bacchus  in  front,  and  a  diota  on  the  reverse,  with  the 
legend  NAZIHN  :  we  bought  ten  of  these.  The  author  had 
also  the  good  fortune  to  procure  a  silver  medal  of  the  island, 
of  such  uncommon  rarity,  that  it  is  believed  there  is  not  a 
duplicate  of  it  in  any  collection  in  Europe.  It  has  on  the 
front  a  bearded  head  of  Bacchus;  and  for  reverse,  the  diota, 
with   the   letters   N  A.     It  is    wonderful,    considering    the 

wealth 


ISALND   OF  NAXOS. 


395 


wealth  and  population  which  the  testimony  of  Herodotus 
proves  the  Island  of  Naxos  to  have  possessed,  that  its  coins 
should  be  so  scarce,  and  generally  so  paltry ;  while  those  of 
its  Sicilian  colony,  so  much  less  noticed  in  history,  are  by  no 
means  uncommon  ;  and  for  size  and  workmanship  the  latter 
are  among  the  finest  examples  of  art  extant. 

Visiting  as  usual  the  working  silversmiths,  we  found 
among  them  several  gems.  The  first  was  a  carnelian  with 
the  figure  of  a  goat,  a  symbol  of  Bacchus:  the  second,  which 
we  could  not  obtain,  represented  a  whole  length  figure  of 
the  God,  reeling,  decorated  with  vine-leaves  and  grapes, 
and  followed  by  a  dog;  he  held  a  thyrsus  in  one  hand, 
and  a  diota  in  the  other  turned  bottom  upwards,  as  a 
proof  that  he  had  emptied  the  contents  of  the  vase.  Upon 
another  gem,  which  we  were  also  unable  to  purchase,  we 
observed  an  altar,  supporting  a  bust  of  Bacchus  crowned 
with  vine-leaves,  in  a  very  singular  attitude,  with  its  mouth 
open,  as  if  making  a  libation  of  the  effects  of  intoxication: 
around  it  appeared  the  letters  of  his  name,  YODYNOIA, 
written,  in  very  antient  charactei*s,  from  right  to  left.  At 
the  house  of  the  Chancellor,  from  whom  we  experienced 
the  most  hospitable  attention,  we  saw  the  hand  of  an 
antient  statue,  executed  in  the  best  style  of  Grecian  sculpture, 
and  certainly  not  inferior  to  any  thing  yet  discovered.  Also, 
near  to  his  house,  the  torso  and  bust  of  a  military  figure, 
with  a  robe  over  the  shoulder,  of  the  most  exquisite  work- 
manship. The  sculpture  of  the  island  appeared  to  be 
generally  of  the  sort  of  marble  called  Parian,  whether 
found  in  Paros  or  in  Naxos;  and  the  remains  of  works  in 

archi- 


CHAP.  X. 


Gems. 


396 


CM\I»  X. 


Colossal 
Statue. 


Temple  of 
Bacchus. 


ISLAND   OF  NAXOS. 

architecture  to  have  been  executed  in  the  splendid,  broader- 
grained,  and  sparry  marble,  which  is  more  peculiar  to  the 
Kaxian  quarries :  but  neither  the  one  nor  the  other  exhibited  the 
smallest  appearance  of  that  false  lustre  and  glittering  surface 
which  has  sometimes,  and  very  improperly,  been  supposed 
to  characterize  works  of  art  executed  in  the  marble  of  these 
islands1.  Age  had  given  to  all  a  warm  and  beautiful  tint 
of  a  yellow  colour:  and,  to  the  eye,  every  fragment  seemed 
to  possess  the  softness  and  consistency  of  wax  or  of 
alabaster.  The  Chancellor  told  us,  that  in  the  interior  of  the 
island,  at  the  distance  of  three  hours  from  the  town,  near 
to  some  antient  marble  quarries,  there  yet  remains  an 
unfinished  colossal  statue,  as  he  said,  of  Apollo,  but  evidently 
of  Bacchus,  with  a  bearded  countenance,  sixteen  feet  in 
length4.  A  public  fountain  near  to  the  town  is  still  con- 
sidered by  the  inhabitants  as  the  fountain  of  ariadne, 
and  it  is  called  by  that  name.  Some  traces  of  antient  works 
which  may  yet  be  discerned  near  to  this  fountain  shew  that 
it  has  long  been  held  in  more  than  usual  consideration. 

Being  unable  to  undertake  a  journey  into  the  interior,  we 
next  visited  the  ruins  of  a  Temple  of  Bacchus,  upon  an 
insular  rock  on  the  north  side  of  the  port.    The  portal  of  that 

temple 


(1)  "  Le  marbre  Grec  est  a  gros  grains  crystallins,  qui  font  de  faux  jours,  et  qui 
sautent  par  petit  eclats,  si  on  ne  le  menage  avec  soin."  Tournef.  Voy.  du  Lev.  Lett.  V. 
torn.  I.  p.  241.    Lyon,  1717. 

(2)  Mr.  Hamilton,  author  of  JEgyptiaca,  with  his  companions,  afterwards  visited 
Naxos,  and  saw  this  statue  of  Bacchus.  It  is  of  such  enormous  size,  that  Mr.  Hamilton's 
party  spread  a  cloth  upon  the  beard,  and  made  it  serve  as  their  table  for  breakfast. 


ISLAND   OF  NAXOS. 

temple  has  been  long  famous,  and  an  account  of  it  is  given  in 
every  book  of  travels  where  Naxos  is  mentioned.  We  shall 
therefore  not  detain  the  Reader  with  any  dissertation  as  to 
the  probable  history  of  the  temple,  but  simply  describe  what 
we  saw.  It  is  asserted,  that  the  isle  was  once  connected  with 
Naxos  by  means  of  a  bridge  and  an  aqueduct :  the  author  of 
the  "  Voyage  Pittoresqae  de  la  Grece,J  says  that  its  vestiges  are 
yet  visible3:  we  did  not  observe  them,  when  we  were  upon 
the  spot.  It  is  an  error  to  suppose,  as  many  have  affirmed, 
that  nothing  remains  of  the  temple  but  this  portal,  although 
it  be  true  that  little  else  can  be  seen.  Considering  the  pains 
that  have  been  lately  bestowed  by  many  of  our  English 
travellers  in  making  excavations  in  different  parts  of  Greece, 
it  is  rather  extraordinary  that  no  person  has  been  induced  to 
lay  open  the  site  of  this  remarkable  building,  where  there 
are  no  Turks  to  interfere  with  the  workmen,  and  where 
there  is  almost  a  certainty  of  reward  for  their  trouble. 
For  our  part,  we  had  not  the  means  of  carrying  on  such 
works  ;  but  we  uncovered  a  part  of  the  soil,  and  discovered 
a  beautiful  capital  of  a  Doric  pillar,  thereby  ascertaining  the 
order  of  architecture  observed  in  the  building.  We  were 
struck  with  admiration  at  the  massive  structure  and  the 
simple  grandeur  of  that  part  of  the  temple  which  still 
remains  standing:  it  consists  of  three  pieces  only  of  the 
Naxian  marble,  two  being  placed  upright  and  one  laid 
across.    Below  these  are  large  square  masses,  which  belonged 

to 


397 


CHAP.  X. 


(3)  Voy.  Pittor.  torn.  I.  p.  43.    Paris,  1782. 


398  ISLAND  OF  NAXOS. 

chap.x.      to  the  threshold;   and  this  consisted  of  three  pieces  only1. 
The  view  through  this  portal,  of  the  town  of  Naxos  with 
its  port,  and  part  of  the  island,  is  very  fine.    We  endeavoured, 
by  a  sketch  made  upon  the  spot,  to  preserve  a  memorial  of 
the  scene;    and  it  has  been  since  rendered  more  perfect, 
without  interfering  with  the  fidelity  of  the  representation2. 
The  mountain  seen  to  the  left  is  probably  A I  A,   now  called 
Z'ia,  whence  the  island  was  formerly  named.     We  brought 
away  some  large  specimens  of  the  marble  which   lies  in 
fragments  near  the  portal :  it  is  so  much  softer  and  more 
laminary  than  the  Parian,  that  the  difference  between  the 
two  kinds  is  easily   to   be   recognised   by   fracture.     It  is 
singular  that  no  account  of  a  building  of  such  magnificence 
should  be  preserved  in  any  author.    Ptolemy,  as  it  is  observed 
by  Tournefort,  seems  to  mention  an  antient  city  upon  which 
it  is  probable  that  the  modern  town  of  Naxos  is  built3;   but 
no  allusion  to  this  small  isle  and  its  temple  occurs  in  any 
antient  description  of  Greece,  notwithstanding  all  that  has 
been  said  of  Naxos,  by  Herodotus,  by  Appian,  and  by  other 
writers.     From    this    isle   we    returned    to    conclude    our 
researches  in  Naxos. 

The  citadel  was  constructed  under  Marco  Sanudo,   the 

first 

(1)  Tournefort  ascertained  the  dimensions  of  the  portal:  according  to  him,  (see 
torn.  I.  Lett.V.  a  Lyon,  1717)  it  is  eighteen  feet  high,  and  eleven  feet  three 
incnes  broad;  the  lintel  is  four  feet  thick;  the  two  uprights  are  four  feet  thick,  aid 
three  feet  and  a  half  broad.  All  the  parts,  he  says,  were  cramped  with  copper,  lor  he 
found  small  pieces  of  that  metal  among  the  ruins. 

(2)  See  the  Plate  annexed,  from  a  drawing  by  Mr.  H.  Wright  of  Magdalen  College, 
Cambridge.  ■ 

(3)  Ncf£ov  N>/<roi/  j]  7r6Xic.     Ptol.  Geog.  lib.  iii.  cap.  15. 


ISLAND  OF  NAXOS. 


399 


first  duke  of  the  Archipelago;  and  the  antient  palace  of  his     v  chap,  x. 
successors   was    the    large    square    tower    which    is    now     other  Ruins, 
remaining  within  this  circular  fortress4.     Near  to  a  small 
chapel  beneath  its  walls,  we  found  a  Cippus,  representing 
two  female  figures,  in  bas-relief.     There  is  not  a  house  in 
the  town  that  has  not  some  relique  of  this  kind  near  to  it;  and 
similar    remains    in    the   interior  are   very   common.     The 
inhabitants  told  us,  that  there  are  two  places  where  ruins  and 
inscriptions  are  found ;  the  one  called  Apollonon,    and   the 
other  a  village  which  bears   the  name  of  Philotes.    They 
spoke  of  ruins  at  two  hours  distance  from  Naxos,   towards 
the  east,  and  offered  to  conduct  us  to  them  :   but  the  journey 
would  have  detained  us  another  dav  ;  and  we  were  afraid  of 
loitering  at  this  season  of  the  year  with  such  a  vessel  as  ours 
upon   a  doubtful  speculation,  and   therefore  refused  to  go. 
Nothing  happened  to  us  more  extraordinary  than  our  almost 
unaccountable  neglect  in  not  visiting  the  Emery  mines:  this 
arose  partly,  as  has  been  stated,  from  the  alarm  into  which 
we  had  been  thrown  upon  our  first  coming  to  the  island, 
which  made  us  forget  to  inquire  after  them  ;  and  also  in 
some  degree  from  not  rightly  comprehending  the  meaning  of 
the  term  Smeriglio,  when  the  exports  were  stated  to  us :  we     Smerigiw. 
would  willingly  have  bartered  the  time  which  we  spent  in 
copying,  and  in  procuring  permission  to  copy,  an  imperfect 
and  unintelligible  inscription,  for  the  opportunity  of  making  a 
few  observations  upon  the  Naxian  Corundum,  of  which  they 
have  two  varieties,  very  different  in  their  qualities.    They  find 

also 


(4)  Tournef.  Voy.  du  Lev.  torn.  I.  Lett.  V.    Lyon,  1717. 


CHAP.  X. 


400  ISLAND  OF   PAROS. 

also  abundance  of  Marcasite,  or  sulphuret  of  iron :  this  was 
mentioned  to  us  by  the  Chancellor,  but  we  were  not  told 
what  use  they  made  of  it.  Formerly  it  was  employed  in 
the  manufacture  of  ear-rings  and  bracelets  in  England  ;  and 
buttons  are  yet  made  of  it  in  Birmingham,  which  have  for  a 
short  time  almost  the  lustre  of  real  brilliants. 

At  eight  o'clock  a.m.  October  the  19th,  we  found  our 
vessel  entering  the  harbour  of  Naussa1,  at  the  northern 
extremity  of  the  Isle  of  Paros  ;  having  availed  ourselves  of 
the  land  breeze  in  the  night  to  leave  Naxos.  This  is  the 
principal  port  for  large  vessels;  but  as  our  object  was  to 
Parechia.         get  to  Parechia,  the  chief  town,  we  ordered   our  men  to 

bear 


Arrival  at 
Paros. 


(l)  See  the  Vignette  to  this  Chapter.  This  must  be  the  Porto  Ausa  of  Dapper. 
(Descript.  des  Isles  de  V  Archipel,  p.l6l.  Amst.1703.)  Tournefort  mentions  Nausa, 
or  Agousa  (torn.  I.  Lett.Y.  p.  241.  Lyon,  1717) :  ar,c*  an  author  who  accompanied 
Mons.  de  Nointel,  during  his  Voyage  in  the  Archipelago  in  1673,  writes  it  Agosa 
(L'Etat  present  de  V Archipel  de  Monsieur  M.D.L.  Cologne,  1678.  p.  57.)  " Udpor 
s^u  Kaarpa  Svo,  teal  \o>pa  jula.  1.  TlapijKia,  ETnaKovdro.  2.  KMaAoc,  Kdarpo. 
3.  'Ayoora.  Ins.  Paros  habet  castra  duo,  et  unam  civitatem.  1.  Parikiam,  episcopatum. 
2.  Kephalon,  castrum.  3.  Augustam."  (Fid.  Martini  Crusii  Annotationes  in  Epistolas 
Doctorum,  p.  207 '•  Turcogrcncice.  Basil,  sine  anno.)  Sonnini  calls  it  Naussa.  (Trav. 
in  Greece,  p.  454.  Lond.  1801.)  These  particulars  are  noted,  because  Paros  may 
hereafter  excite  the  notice  of  our  Government.  It  was  in  this  port  that  the  Russians 
established  the  depot  of  their  forces,  when  they  promised  to  restore  liberty  to  Greece, 
and  became  the  scourge  of  the  inhabitants  j  desolating  the  finest  works  of  antiquity 
wherever  they  went.  There  is  no  harbour  in  Greece  better  calculated  for  a  national  esta- 
blishment. Fleets  may  lie  there  in  perfect  safety,  and  in  the  very  center  of  the 
Archipelago.  The  Turks  make  no  use  of  Paros  themselves :  and,  viewed  only  with 
regard  to  the  abundance  of  its  valuable  marble,  it  ought  to  be  considered  as  an  island 
of  importance  to  a  nation  vain  of  its  distinction  in  the  Fine  Arts.  A  very  fine  Chart  of 
this  harbour  has  been  engraved  in  the  "  Voyage  Pittoresque  de  la  Grece,"  with  all  the 
soundings,  &c.  as  it  was  surveyed  by  Kauffer  in  1776 ;  shewing  the  situation  of  the 
Russian  magazines  and  fortifications.    See  PI.  xxxi.  p.  70.  torn.  I.  Paris,  1782. 


ISLAND   OF  PAROS. 

bear  down  the  western  side  of  the  island.  This  island  is 
surrounded  by  harbours,  and  that  of  Naussa  alone  is  said 
to  be  capable  of  containing  a  hundred  vessels. 

A  contrary  wind  soon  after  met  us ;  in  consequence  of 
which  we  landed,  and  walked  about  three  miles  ;  meeting  in 
the  first  Greek  we  saw  a  proof  of  that  hospitality  which  is 
so  common  in  the  Archipelago.  He  was  the  owner  of  a  house 
in  Paros  to  which  he  invited  us ;  saying  that  his  son  should 
be  our  guide  to  the  marble  quarries,  and  that  he  would  shew 
us  all  the  antiquities  in  the  neighbourhood.  We  accom- 
panied him  ;  and  made  a  hearty  meal  upon  salted  olives, 
grapes,  boiled  pumpkins,  and  Parian  wine.  Our  boat  did  not 
arrive  until  ten  at  night.  Parechia  is  a  wretched  relique  of 
the  antient  and  famous  Paros.  Every  building  in  the  place, 
but  particularly  the  Castle,  bears  some  evidence  of  its 
pristine  splendor,  and  of  the  havoc  that  has  ensued. 

October  the  20th,  the  Waiwode  of  Paros,  who  is  a  native 
of  Tenos  sent  as  Governor  to  collect  the  taxes,  but  not  con- 
stantly resident,  came  to  visit  us,  and  offered  to  shew  to  us 
the  Castle.  In  the  walls  of  this  building  we  saw  some 
columns  which  had  been  placed  horizontally  among  the 
materials  used  in  building  it ;  and  their  butt-ends,  sticking 
out,  were  singularly  inscribed  with  the  letter  A,  placed  close 
to  the  cavity  intended  for  the  reception  of  the  iron  instru- 
ment called  by  modern  architects  the  Louis'" ;   either  as  a 

mark 

(2)  The  name  of  this  dove-tailed  instrument  is  in  general  use  among  architects  ;  but 
it  is  not  found  in  any  English  Dictionary.  Its  origin  is  very  uncertain :  the  French  call 
the  same  instrument  Louve.  Piranesi,  in  his  third  volume  of  the  "  Magnificcnza  di  Roma" 
mentions  having  found  stones  in  antient  buildings  in  which  there  were  cavities  for  an 
instrument  of  this  dove-tailed  shape. 

VOL.  III.  3   F 


401 


CHAP.  X. 


Castle. 


HI       MM| 


402  ISLAND    OF  FAROS. 

chap,  x.  mark  by  which  to  adjust  the  several  parts  of  the  shaft, 
or  as  a  curious  method  of  preserving  the  initial  of  the 
architect's  name ;  so  that  it  could  not  be  seen  until  the 
building  became  a  ruin.  An  instance  of  a  similar  nature 
occurred  at  Telmessus,  where  the  name  of  Hermolycus  had 
been  carefully  inscribed,  but  in  such  a  manner  as  to  be 
concealed  from  observation  when  the  building  was  entire  : 
this  letter  may  therefore  possibly  relate  to  Amphilochus,  "  the 
glory  of  whose  art,"  in  an  inscription  found  at  Rhodes', 
was  said  "  to  reach  to  the  mouths  of  the  Nile,  and  to  the 
utmost  Indus."  The  entrance  to  the  interior  is  of  very 
singular  form,  being  as  wide  as  one  entire  side  of  the  Castle. 
It  is  truly  lamentable  to  view  the  wreck  of  beautiful  sculp- 
ture, visible  not  only  in  the  construction  of  this  fortress,  but 
all  over  the  town  of  Parechia,   the  wretched  remnant  of  a 

inscriptions.      city  famous  for  the  birth  of  Phidias  and  of  Praxiteles.     We 

copied  part  of  an  inscription  yet  existing  in  the  Castle  wall : 

AHPHZAZANE0HKEN 
A  P  XniMTOCJU  EN 

Also  near  to  a  windmill   we  found  inscribed,   "Niciratus 

son  of  Alc^us  :" 

Nl  KHPATOX 
A  A  K A  I  OY 

It  may  be  said,  perhaps,   that  these  inscriptions  are  hardly 

worth  preserving;  but   instances   have    occurred   in  which 

even  such  scraps  have  not  been  without  utility,  in  adding  to 

the  general  stock  of  literature.    We  afterwards  found  an 

inscription    of   greater    length :    it  was    in    the   left-hand 

door- 


(1)  See  the  former  Section,  Chap.  VIII.  p.  228. 


*fc$W&mmiimiir*~**-r~-.. 


ISLAND   OF  PAROS. 

door- way  of  the  Chapel  of  St.  Nicholas,  in  the  Church  of 
St.  Helen,  the  stone  being  placed  in  an  inverted  position. 
It  states  that  "  The  son  of  Theocles,  who  had  conducted 

HIMSELF   WELL    IN    THE    OFFICE    OF    AGORANOMOS,    TWICE,    IS 

crowned  with  a  golden  crown."  The  legend  requires 
a  little  restoration,  which  is  here  marked  by  dotted  letters. 

HBOYAHKAIOAHMOZETIMHZEN 

KA;£ZTE<t>ANnZENXPYZftZTE*\A.NO. 

NI2NmPYTON0EOKAEOYZArO 

PANOMHZANTAAIZKAAnZKA^ 

AiKAIHZKATETOYZNOMOYZKAi 

KATATOKOINONnAZIZYM<l>EPON 

In  a  wall  of  the  court  we  observed  a  Lectisternium,  in  bas- 
relief;  but  it  had  been  whitewashed,  and  this  made  it  difficult 
to  copy  an  inscription  upon  the  marble.  In  one  part  of  the 
stone  there  appeared,  in  small  characters  : 


403 


TOETOSAAESANAPOT 

ipoMoipnJEsmSAJ 


Below  this  were  some  figures   in  a  reclining  posture  ;  and 
then  followed,  in  larger  letters  : 

ZnXAPMOYnAPAl 

EniKAIEZ<t>0IMENO 

EITAPKAiriAYPAZEn 

AZIOZAINEIZOAI 
OP<t>ANAMENMOPAIT 

KEIZOnnAIZIXPON 

The  four  last  lines   in   this  inscription   were  evidently   in 
metre,  as  we  may  judge  from  the  beginning  of  each  : 

Ei   yoig   kcci  ircLugois 
A%iog   aivfttrQcti 

Kg7<r#<y  tockti  %gov  -  - 

Similar 


chap.  x. 


*w>.'^ : 


404 


CHAP,  X. 


ISLAND  OF  PAROS. 

Similar  imperfect  remains  may  be  observed  in  all  parts 
of  the  town,  which  have  been  used  for  building  materials,  and 
generally  white- washed.  Near  the  house  of  the  Imperial 
Consul,  facing  the  street,  we  saw  this  inscription  in  the 
wall :    "  Dionysius,  son  of  Euschemon,  farewell  :" 

AIONYCIOC 
EYCX  H  MONOC 
XPHCTEXAIPE 

Two  forms  of  the  Sigma  are  observable  in  this  inscription. 
That  the  C  and  Z  were  used  promiscuously  in  very  antient 
times,  has  been  frequently  shewn.  The  C  wras  of  the  highest 
antiquity,  and  certainly  in  use  prior  to  the  aera  of  the  first 
Punic  War1.  The  C  appears  on  coins  and  marbles  of  very 
antient  date2.  Somewhat  farther  on,  in  another  street, 
we  found  an  inscription  relating  to  "  a  daughter  of 
Agathemeris  :" 

ZCJUCAPIN  .  .  On  A A-- 

©YrATHPAe 
ATA0HM6PIAOC 

It  is  impossible  to  assign  any  date  to  these  inscriptions  ;  in 
which  not  less  than  three  different  forms  of  a  single  letter 
may  be  observed  :  but  this  want  of  uniformity  is  no  proof  of 
the  age  of  the  writing. 

This  day,  as  the  Governor  offered  to  accompany  us  to  see 

the 


(1)  Torremuzza  Inscript.  di  Palermo,  p.  237- 

(2)  See  Paciandis  Observations  on  Medals,  bearing  the  legend  LAHII2N    and 
OP0HCIEHN.     Mon.  PelL34. 


ISLAND   OF  PAROS. 


405 


the  famous  Grotto  of  Antiparos,  and  as  our  host  had  prepared 
mules  and  guides  for  the  expedition,  we  set  off  at  eight  a.  m. 
and  rode  by  the  side  of  a  mountain,  through  corn  fields,  until 
we  came  to  the  narrowest  part  of  the  channel,  between 
Paros  and  Antiparos.  Paros  seemed  to  be  in  a  higher  state 
of  cultivation  than  Naxos.  The  island  produces  excellent 
oil,  and  abundance  of  wine.  Its  ripe  olives  are  highly 
esteemed  by  the  natives  as  an  article  of  food,  after  being 
salted  for  one  day :  this  sort  of  diet  has  been  often  deemed, 
by  inconsiderate  English  travellers  in  Italy  and  Greece, 
very  hard  fare  for  the  poor  inhabitants:  but  it  is  one  of  their 
greatest  luxuries  ;  and  we  became  as  fond  of  it  as  the  people 
everywhere  seem  to  be  from  one  extremity  of  the  Mediter- 
ranean to  the  other.  As  soon  as  we  reached  the  shore  from 
which  we  were  to  pass  over  to  Antiparos,  we  observed  a 
large  Turkish  merchant  ship,  laden  with  soap,  and  bound 
from  Crete  to  Constantinople,  stranded  in  the  middle  of  the 
strait.  The  master  of  the  vessel,  without  any  compass,  and 
with  the  usual  fatality  attending  his  countrymen  in  their  sea 
voyages,  had  relied  upon  an  ignorant  pilot,  who  had  persuaded 
him  that  this  was  the  greater  boccaze  between  Naxos  and 
Paros,  and  the  ship  in  consequence  was  driven  upon  the 
shallows.  We  went  on  board,  and  found  the  master  squatted 
within  his  cabin,  smoking,  and  listening  to  a  duet  performed 
by  two  of  his  crew  upon  a  drum  and  a  lyre,  while  the  rest 
were  gone  in  search  of  people  to  assist  in  hauling  the  vessel 
off  the  rocks.  Nothing  could  exceed  his  perfect  Moslem 
indifference ;  for  although  it  seemed  to  be  doubtful  whether 
his  vessel  would  ever  move  again,  or,  if  she  did,  whether  she 

would 


chap.  x. 


Ship  stranded. 


giftcapw  i.«jw 


406 


CHAP.  X. 


Antiparos. 


Grotto. 


Its  possible 
Origin. 


ISLAND   OF   ANTIPAROS. 

would  not  go  to  the  bottom  in  consequence  of  the  damage 
she  had  sustained,  he  would  not  stir  from  the  seat  where  he 
had  remained  from  the  moment  the  accident  happened. 

We  landed  upon  the  barren  island  of  Antiparos,  and 
were  conducted  by  the  Governor  to  a  small  village :  here 
we  found  a  few  inhabitants,  who  were  described  to  us  as  the 
casual  legacies  of  different  vessels,  and  principally  Maltese, 
taken  by  corsairs,  and  left  on  shore  to  shift  for  themselves. 
Some  of  them  provided  us  with  mules,  ropes,  and  candles  for 
the  grotto,  which  is  situated  near  the  summit  of  the  highest 
mountain  of  Antiparos,  in  the  south  part  of  the  island.  As 
we  rode  along,  our  beasts  were  terrified  by  the  attacks  of 
the  gad-fly,  an  insect  which  infests  every  one  of  the  Cyclades. 
Having  reached  the  top  of  the  mountain  before  mentioned, 
we  came  to  the  mouth  of  this  most  prodigious  cavern,  which 
may  be  described  as  the  greatest  natural  curiosity  of  its 
kind  in  the  known  world.  The  entrance  to  it  has  nothing 
very  remarkable :  it  is  beautifully  represented  in  the  Voyage 
Pittoresque  of  De  Choiseul  Gouffier ' ;  but  no  book  of  travels 
ever  did  or  ever  can  pourtray  the  beauties  of  the  interior. 
As  to  its  origin,  it  may  possibly  have  been  a  very  antient 
mine,  or  a  marble  quarry,  from  the  oblique  direction  of  the 
cavity,  and  the  parallel  inclination  of  its  sides.  The  rock 
immediately  above  it  consists  of  the  following  substances. 
The  upper  surface  or  summit  of  the  mountain  is  a  stratum 
of  limestone,  inclined  very  considerably  from  the  horizon  : 

beneath 


(l)    See  Plate  xxxvi.  p.  72.  torn.  I.    Par.  1782. 


Mode  of 
Descent. 


ISLAND   OF  ANTIPAROS. 

beneath  this  is  a  layer  of  schistus,  containing  the  sort  of  marble 
called  Cipolino,  that  is  to  say,  a  mixture  of  schistus  and  marble : 
then  occurs  the  cavity  which  forms  the  grotto,  parallel  to  the 
dipping  inclination  of  the  superior  strata,  and  this  cavity  was 
once  probably  occupied   by  a  bed  of  marble,  succeeding  in 
regular  order  to  the   superincumbent  schistus ;   but  this  is 
mere  hypothesis  ;  and  any  traveller  who  enters   the  grotto 
will  soon  perceive,   that  all  the  theories  he  may  form  have 
been  set  at  nought  by  Nature,  in  the  darksome  wonders  of 
her  subterraneous  laboratory.     We  may  therefore  come  at 
once  to  the  practical  part  of  the  inquiry.     The   mode  of 
descent  is  by  ropes,   which  on  the  different  declivities  are 
either  held  by  the  natives,  or  they  are  joined  to  a  cable  which 
is  fastened  at  the  entrance  around  a  stalactite  pillar.     In  this 
manner,  we  were  conducted,  first  down  one  declivity,  and 
then  down  another,  until  we  entered  the  spacious  chambers 
of  this  truly  enchanted  grotto.     Having  visited  the  stalactite     Description  of 
caverns  of  the  Gulph  of  Salcrnum  upon  the  coast  of  Italy, 
those  of  Terni,  and  many  other  places,  the  author  expected 
to  find  something  similar  here ;  but  there  is  nothing  which 
resembles  this  grotto.     The  roof,  the  floor,  the  sides  of  a 
whole  series   of  magnificent  caverns,  were  entirely  invested 
with  a  dazzling  incrustation   as   white  as  snow.     Columns, 
some  of  which  were  five  and  twenty  feet  in  length,  pended 
in  fine  icicle  forms  above   our  heads :  fortunately  some  of 
them  are  so  far  above  the  reach  of  the  numerous  travellers 
who,  during  many  ages,  have  visited  this  place,  that  no  one 
has   been    able    to   injure    or    to    remove    them.      Others 
extended  from  the  roof  to  the  floor,  with  diameters  equal  to 

that 


wv^w*:  *.-***:•.>  fi&atk*  t,aw»;*»S«<)*P»ft« 


-|^BB      $$W9M&pi^e»«^«»g^^ 


ISLAND   OF   ANTIPAROS. 

that  of  the  mast  of  a  first-rate  ship  of  the  line.  The 
incrustations  of  the  floor,  caused -by  falling  drops  from  the 
stalactites  above,  had  grown  up  into  dendritic  and  vegetable 
forms,  which  first  suggested  to  Tournefort  the  strange  notion 
of  his  having  here  discovered  the  vegetation  of  stones. 
Vegetation  itself  has  been  considered  as  a  species  of  crystalli- 
zation1 ;  and  as  the  process  of  crystallization  is  so  surprisingly 
manifested  by  several  phenomena  in  this  grotto,  some 
analogy  may  perhaps  be  allowed  to  exist  between  the  plant 
and  the  stone ;  but  it  cannot  be  said  that  a  principle  of  life 
existing  in  the  former  has  been  imparted  to  the  latter.  The 
last  chamber  into  which  we  descended  surprised  us  more  by 
the  grandeur  of  its  exhibition  than  any  other ;  and  this 
seems  to  have  been  the  same  which  Tournefort  intended  to 
represent  by  the  wretched  view  of  it  given  in  his  work2. 
Probably  there  are  many  other  chambers  below  this,  yet 
unexplored,  for  no  attempt  has  been  made  to  penetrate 
farther3 :  and  if  this  be  true,  the  new  caverns,  when  opened, 
would  appear  in  perfect  splendor,  unsullied,  in  any  part  of 
them,  by  the  smoke  of  torches,  or  by  the  hands  of  intruders  ; 
for  although,  in  the  general  whiteness  of  the  grotto,  as  it 
now  appears,  the  partial  injuries  its  beauty  has  sustained  be 

not 

(1)  See  Patrin,  Hist.  Nat.  torn.  III.  pp.  130,  146.  Par.  An  Q.  Lametherie,  &c.  &c. 

(2)  Voyage  du  Levant,  torn.  I.  p.  227.  a  Lyon,  \y\7-  A  better  idea  of  it  may  be 
formed  by  seeing  the.beautiful  Plate  engraved  by  Tilliard,  from  a  drawing  of  the  interior 
by  Hilair,  in  the  Voyage  Pittoresque,  torn.  I.  p.  74.     Paris,  1782. 

(3)  Tournefort  mentions  an  opening  of  this  kind  :  "  A  cote  de  cette  tour  se  voit 
un  trou  par  oii  Ton  entre  dans  une  autre  caverne,  mais  personne  n'osa  y  descendre." 
Voy.  du  Lev.  torn.  I.  p.  231. 


ISLAND  OF   ANTIPAROS. 

not  at  first  perceived,  there  are  proofs  that,  in  the  course 
of  time,  by  the  increased  frequency  of  the  visits  paid  to 
it,  and  the  damage  caused  by  breaking  the  stalactites  to 
remove  as  curiosities,  the  splendid  effect  produced  by  the 
whole  must  be  diminished.  After  this  general  description,  it 
will  now  be  proper  to  give  a  more  philosophical  detail  of 
our  observations  upon  its  natural  history. 

The  substance  itself  which   is   thus   deposited  is  purely     Nature  of  the 
alabaster;  that  is  to  say,  it  is  a  concretion  of  carbonated  lime 
which  was  employed  by  the  Antients  in  the  manufacture 
of  their  unguentary  vases9;    and  it  is  distinguished   bv  its 
chemical  constituents  from   the  alabaster  of  modern  times, 
or  gypsum,  which  is  a  sulphat  of  lime.    The  formation  of  the 
carbonated  alabaster  by  the  stalactite  process  is  now  so  well 
known,  that  its  explanation  may  be  comprehended  in  very 
few  words.     Nothing  is  more  common  than  the  presence  of 
carbonic  acid  in  water  ;   and  when  a  superabundance  of  this 
acid  is  present,  the  fluid  is  capable  of  sustaining,  in  solution, 
a  portion  of  lime  carbonate  ;  but  upon  the  slightest  agitation, 
or  division,  or  exposure   to  atmospheric   air,  or  change  of 
temperature,  the  carbonic   acid   makes  its  escape,  and  the 
fluid,  thus  losing  its  solvent  power,  necessarily  lets  fall  the 
lime.    All  this  is  very  simple,  and  very  easily  comprehended. 
The 

(2)  "  There  came  unto  him  a  woman  having  an  alabaster  box  of  viry 
precious  ointment."  (Matthew  xxvi.  7.)  The  author  found  among  the  ruins  of 
the  city  of  Sais,  in  Egypt,  the  fragment  of  one  of  the  unguentary  vases  of  the  Antients  : 
it  consists  of  white  carbonated  alabaster.  Pliny  says,  that  the  best  alabaster  was  of 
the  colour  of  honey,  and  that  it  was  a  defect  in  the  stone  to  be  white  and  translucid. 
The  alabaster  of  Antiparos  is  of  a  honey  colour,  like  to  that  which  comes  to  us  from 
Gibraltar  in  a  manufactured  state. 


VOL.   III. 


3   G 


■MMlMNMMMMiNMMMMHMNBR 


410 


CHAP.X. 


Paradoxical 
Phenomena. 


Crystalliza- 
tion of 
Alabaster. 


ISLAND   OF   ANT1PAROS. 

The  paradox  remains  now  to  be  stated:  it  is  this;  that  these 
enormous  stalactites,   thus  formed  during  a  series  of  ages 
by  the  slow  and  gradual  deposition  of  lime-water,  filtering 
drop  by  drop  from  the  roof  of  the  cavern,   offer  concentric 
layers  only  towards  their  superficies  ;   their  interior  structure 
exhibiting  a  completed  crystallization,  which   separates  by 
fracture  into  semi-transparent  rhombs,  as  perfectly  formed 
as  if  they  had   resulted  from  a  simultaneous   instead  of  a 
continued  process.     Almost    every  mineralogist   may  have 
noticed  a   rhomboidal  termination   of  the   small   translucid 
stalactites  which  are  found  at  Castleton  in  Derbyshire ;  but 
there  the  operation  has  been  carried  on  in  water,  a  globule 
of  which  has  remained  constantly  suspended  at  the  point  of 
each  stalactite ;  but  in  this  grotto,  crystallization  has  been 
the  result  of  a  modification  sustained  by  the  whole  interior 
of  a  mass  of  alabaster,  subsequently  to  its  original  deposition. 
That  the  cavern  has  neither  been  filled  with  water,  nor  with 
any  other  fluid  than  atmospheric  air,  is  very  evident,  by  the 
formation  of  the  stalactites,  which  could  not  otherwise  have 
existed  as  they  now  appear.    Every  thing  belonging  to  them, 
and  to  this  cavern,  will  tend  to  perplex  and  to  confound  the 
naturalist ;  and  many  proofs  of  this  are  yet  to  follow.     In 
the  different  cavities,  and   between   the   interstices   of  the 
stalactites,  we  had  the  satisfaction  to  discover,  what  no  one 
has  hitherto  noticed, — the  crystallization  of  alabaster, 
in  distinct   groups  of  large   rhomboidal   primary  crystals, 
upon  the  exterior  surface  of  the  several  concretions :  and 
that   these   crystals  were   gradually   accumulating  in    size, 
until  they  met  together  and  constituted  one  entire  mass,  was 

evident, 


ISLAND    OF   ANTIPAROS. 

evident,  because,  upon  a  diligent  examination  of  all  parts  of 
the  grotto,  we  found,  that  where  the  stalactites  were  small, 
and  in  an   incipient  state,  the  crystals  upon  their  surface 
were  exceedingly  minute ;  where  they  were  large,  the  crystals 
were   also   large,  some   of  them   exceeding   two   inches   in 
diameter.     Another    surprising  fact  is,    that  although  the 
outer  crust  of  these  crystals  be  opaque,  and  similar  to  the  ex- 
terior incrustation  of  the  concretions  themselves,  the  crystals, 
when  broken,  are,  each  and  all  of  them,   integral  parts  of 
the  stalactite  upon  which  they  have  been  formed.    We  care- 
fully detached  a  great  variety  of  specimens,   to  illustrate  and 
to  confirm  these  observations ;  and  although  the  Waiwode 
who  accompanied  us,  like  a   child  craving  the  toy  which 
amuses  another,  insisted  upon  having  the  finest  specimen, 
under  the  pretext  of  presenting  it  to  his  ignorant  patron  the 
Capudan  Pasha,  we  had  the  good  fortune  to  bring  many  of 
these  specimens  to  England,  and  to  the  University  of  Cam- 
bridge, where  they  have  been  annually  exhibited  during  the 
Mineralogical  Lectures.     It  was  in   that  University,   when 
the  author  was  engaged  in  shewing  them  to  the  celebrated 
Tennant,  now  Professor  of  Chemistry  there,  that  the  Professor 
noticed  among   the   stalactites   one    which  was  remarkably 
distinguished    from   the    rest     by    its    fascicular    structure, 
by  its  superior    hardness,   and    by  the  appearance  of  rays 
diverging  from  a  common  centre  towards  the  circumference1. 

Its 


411 


Cll\P.  x. 


(l)  A  similar  formation  was  noticed  by  Tournefort:  "Distingue*,  par  six  cercles 
concentriques,  dont  les  fibres  vont  du  centre  a  la  cir confer en  re."  (Voy.  du  Lev.  torn.  I. 
p.  228.  Lyon,  1717)  It  is  remarkable  that  the  same  writer  denies  the  dropping  of 
water  in  the  grotto — "  //  ne  tombe  pas  une  seule  goutte  d'eau  dans  ce  lieu."     Ibid. 


' 


I  ^H  ■  Mi?J      ■  ■  J 


Arragonitt. 


ISLAND   OF    ANTIPAROS. 

Its  fracture  is  not  rhomboidal:  and  its  dispersion  into 
a  powder,  by  heat,  exhibits  the  still  mouldering  appear- 
ance of  arragonite, — and  not  the  decrepitation  of  such  par- 
ticles of  carbonated  lime  as  contain  water,  of  which  specific 
nature  are  the  generality  of  the  stalactites  in  this  grotto. 
From  all  these  circumstances  Professor  Tennant  had  no 
doubt  of  its  being  arragonite,  and  in  the  stalactite 
form,  which  has  never  before  been  noticed.  Indeed  the 
mineral  itself  has  hitherto  been  so  rare,  that  were  it  not 
for  the  attention  shewn  to  it,  and  the  interest  excited,  in 
consequence  of  its  being  the  only  anomaly  in  Hauy's  theory 
of  crystallization,  very  little  of  its  real  history  would  be 
known  ;  nor  can  there  be  a  greater  inducement  now  offered 
to  naturalists  to  visit  the  Grotto  of  Antiparos,  than  the 
discovery  thus  made  of  a  new  locality  of  this  curious  mineral. 
Another  singular  circumstance  in  the  history  of  the  grotto  is, 
that  the  incisions  made  by  persons  who  have  formerly  in- 
scribed their  names  in  the  alabaster,  have  not  only  been 
filled  up,  but  the  letters  so  marked  have  since  protruded  in 
relief  from  the  surface  of  the  stone ;  and  this  has  hitherto 
received  no  explanation.  Some  Greek  inscriptions  near  the 
entrance,  also  noticed  by  Tournefort,  prove  that  the  grotto 
was  visited  in  a  very  early  period.  One  of  them,  which  he 
has  preserved  very  entire,  mentions  that  a  number  of  persons, 
whose  names  are  subscribed,  "  came  thither  during  the 
administration  of  Criton." 


EH! 


Bsltefl*  mm 


ISLAND   OF  ANTIPAROS. 

En  i 

KPITHNOZ 
OIAEHA0ON 
MENANAPOZ 
IOXAPM OI 
M  EN  EKPATH  £ 
ANTin  ATPOI 

innoM  EAiiN 

APIITEAZ 
4>l  A  E  AZ 

roproi 

AIOTENHI 
<M  AO  KPATHZ 

ONEZIMOZ 

Monsieur  de  Nointel,  French  ambassador  to  Constan- 
tinople, seems  to  have  flattered  himself  that  he  was  the  first 
person  who  had  ever  ventured  into  this  cavern1.  During 
Christmas,  in  the  year  1 673,  he  caused  mass  to  be  celebrated 
in  the  grotto,  at  midnight;  remaining  here  three  entire  days, 
accompanied  by  upwards  of  five  hundred  persons.  The 
cavern  was  then  illuminated  by  four  hundred  lamps,  and 
one  hundred  large  wax  flambeaus ;  the  elevation  of  the 
host  was  accompanied  by  the  music  of  trumpets,  hautboys, 
fifes,  and  violins,  as  well  as  by  the  discharge  of  artillery 

placed 


Visit  of 
the  French 
Ambassador. 


(1)  "  Monsieur  le  Marquis  de  Nointel,  ayant  entendu  dire,  qu'il  y  avoit  dans  l'autre 
isle  voisine,  nommee  Antiparos,  une  grotte  ou  personne  n'osoit  entrer,  y  voulut  de- 
scendre  la  veille  de  Noel.  Je  m'orrris  a"  l'y  accompagner,  &c."  L'Etat  present  de 
I'Archipelt  de  Mons.  M.  D.L.    a  Cologne,  1678.  p.  65.  Premiere  Partie. 


5SES  PS    "      P£  RHS"  H 


414 


CHAP.  X. 


Oliaros. 


Antient 
Quarries  of 
Parian  Marble. 


RETURN  TO   PAROS. 

placed  at  the  entrance  of  the  cavern.  Two  Latin  inscriptions 
yet  record  this  subterranean  solemnity,  which  may  be  con- 
sidered as  ascertaining  the  epocha  of  the  first  visit  paid 
to  the  grotto  in  modern  times.  In  the  words  which  the 
Ambassador  caused  to  be  inscribed  upon  the  base  of  the 
stalagmite  which  supplied  him  with  an  altar  for  the  occa- 
sion, we  have  a  striking  example  of  the  Roman-Catholic 
faith,  as  to  the  miraculous  presence  of  the  Messiah  in  the 
consecrated  wafer : 

HIC  .  IPSE  .  CHRISTVS  •  ADFVIT 

EJVS  •  NATALI  •  DIE  •  MEDIA  •  NOCTE 

CELEBRATO  .  MDCLXXIII. 

The  channel  between  the  two  islands  is  not  more  than 
a  mile  wide  :  but  it  is  two  leagues  from  the  port  of  Anti- 
paros  to  that  of  Paros.  It  was  this  distance  which  convinced 
Tournefort  that  Antiparos  is  the  island  called  Oliaros,  or 
Olearos,  by  the  Antients.  We  returned  to  Paros  highly 
gratified  by  our  very  interesting  expedition,  and  carefully 
packed  the  specimens  we  had  collected. 

Wednesday,  October  the  twenty-first.  This  day  we  set 
out  upon  mules  for  the  antient  quarries  of  the  famous  Parian 
marble,  which  are  situated  about  a  league  to  the  east  of  the 
town,  upon  the  summit  of  a  mountain,  nearly  corresponding 
in  altitude  with  the  situation  of  the  Grotto  of  Antiparos. 
The  son  of  our  host,  a  young  married  man,  accompanied  us. 
We  rode  through  several  olive  plantations  in  our  ascent: 
the  fruit  of  these  trees  was  the  sole  topic  of  conversation 
with  our  worthy  guide,   who  spoke  of  a  ripe  olive  as  the 

most 


ISLAND   OF  PAROS. 


415 


CHAP.  X. 


most  delicious  dainty  which  Heaven  had  vouchsafed  to  man 
upon  earth  ;  giving  him  greater  strength,  vigour,  and  agility, 
than  any  other  kind  of  food.     "Oh!"   said  he,   smacking 
his  lips,  "  how  we  feast  at  my  father's,  when  olives  first  come 
into    season."      The  mountain   in   which    the   quarries  are 
situated,  now  called  Capresso,  is  believed1  to  have  been  the 
Marpessus  mentioned  by  Servius2  and  by  Stephanus  Byzan-    Marpanu. 
tints5:   there  are  two  of  those  quarries.     When  we  arrived 
at  the  first,  we  found,  in   the  mouth  of  the  quarry,  heaps 
of  fragments  detached  from  the  interior:   they  were  tinged, 
by  long  exposure   to  the  air,  with  a  reddish  ochreous  hue, 
but,   upon    being   broken,    exhibited    the    glittering  sparry 
fracture  which  often  characterizes  the  remains  of  Grecian 
sculpture;  and  in  this  we  instantly  recognised  the  beauti/ul 
marble  which  is  generally  named,  by  way   of  distinction, 
the   Parian,    although    the    same    kind   of   marble  be  also 
found  in   lliasos" ;  and  it  is  remarkable  that  the  inhabitants 
of  Thasos  were  a  Parian  colony5.    The  marble  of  Naxos  only 
differs  from  the  Thasian  and  Parian  in  exhibiting  a  more  ad- 
vanced state  of  crystallization.    The  peculiar  excellence  of  the 

Parian 


(1)  See  Tournefort  (Voy.duLev.  torn.  I.  p.  23Q.  Lyon,  1717)  and  the  following 
authorities  by  him  cited. 

(2)  "  Marpesos  mons  est  Pariae  insulae."     Servius  in  sEneid.  vi. 

(3)  MAPITE22A  oftoi:  Tlupov  d<f  ov  oi  \i6oi  ifaipovrai.  Stephanus  Byzantinus. 
L.  Bat.  l(J94. 

(4)  For  this  remark  the  author  is  indebted  to  Mr.  Hawkins,  the  publication  of 
whose  Travels  in  Greece  has  long  been  anxiously  expected  by  all  who  know  the 
industry  of  his  researches  and  the  superior  accuracy  of  his  observations. 

(5)  'Ytto  c)£  Wapiuv  cKTiffdr]  Qdaos.     Stralon.  Geog.  lib.  x.  p.  /l\.     Oxon.  1807. 


416 


CHAP.  X. 


Cause  of  the 
Prevalence  of 
Parian  Marble 
in  Grecian 
Sculpture. 


ISLAND  OF  PAROS. 

Parian  is  extolled  by  Strabo  ' ;  and  it  possesses  some  valuable 
qualities    unknown  even    to    the    Antients,   who   spoke  so 
highly  in  its  praise2.     These  qualities  are,   that  of  hardening 
by  exposure  to  atmospheric  air  (which  however  is  common 
to  all  homogeneous  limestone,)  and  the  consequent  propertv 
of  resisting   decomposition  through  a  series  of  ages, — and 
this,  rather  than  the  supposed  preference  given  to  the  -Parian 
marble  by  the  Antients,  may  be  considered  as  the   cause  of 
its   prevalence   among    the   remains    of  Grecian   sculpture. 
That  the  Parian  marble  was  highly  and  deservedly  extolled 
by  the  Romans,  has  been  already  shewn;  but  in  a  very  early 
period,  when   the  Arts   had   attained  their  full  splendor  in 
the  age  of  Pericles,  the  preference  was  given  by  the  Greeks, 
not  to  the  marble  of  Paros,  but  to  that  of  Mount  Pentelicus ; 
because  it   was  whiter ;  and  also,  perhaps,  because  it   was 
found  in  the  immediate  vicinity  of  Athens.     The  Parthenon 
was    built    entirely  of  Pentelican    marble.       Many    of  the 
Athenian   statues,    and    of  the    works   carried   on    near  to 
Athens  during   the  administration  of  Pericles,  (as,  for   ex- 
ample, the  Temple  of  Ceres  at  Eleusis,)  were  executed  in  the 
marble   of  Pentelicus.      But   the    finest    Grecian    sculpture 
which  has  been   preserved  to  the  present  time  is  generally 
of  Parian  marble.     The  Medice'an  Venus,  the  Belvidere  Apollo, 

the 


(1)  'Ev  c?t  rrj  Tldpa  ij  Uapia  \idoi  Xtyojxtvt],  dpiarrj  Trpoc  rt}y  p.app.apoy\v<hiav. 
Stralon.  Geog.  lib.x.  p.7\\.    Oxon.  I8O7. 

(2)  "  Paros,  cum  oppido,  ab  Delo  xxxvm  mill,  marmore  nobilis  ;  quam  primo 
Pactum  (MS.  Plateam),  postea  Minoida  vocarunt."  Plin.  Nat.  Hist.  lib.  iv.  c.  12. 
L.  Bat.  1635.  torn.  I.  p.  223. 


ISLAND    OP   I'AROS. 


417 


CHAP.  X. 


the  Antinous,  and  many  other  celebrated  works,  are  of  Parian 
marble ;  notwithstanding  the  preference  which  was  so  early- 
bestowed  upon  the  Pentelican :  and  this  is  easily  explained. 
While  the  works  executed  in  Parian  marble  retain,  with  all 
the  delicate  softness  of  wax,  the  mild  lustre  even  of  their 
original  polish,  those  which  were  finished  in  Pentelican 
marble  have  been  decomposed,  and  sometimes  exhibit  a 
surface  as  earthy  and  as  rude  as  common  limestone.  This 
is  principally  owing  to  veins  of  extraneous  substances 
which  intersect  the  Pentelican  quarries,  and  which  appear 
more  or  less  in  all  the  works  executed  in  this  kind  of 
marble.  The  fracture  of  Pentelican  marble  is  sometimes 
splintery,  and  partakes  of  the  foliated  texture  of  the  schistus 
which  traverses  it ;  consequently  it  has  a  tendency  to 
exfoliate,  like  Cipolino,  by  spontaneous  decomposition. 

We  descended  into  the  quarry,  whence  not  a  single 
block  of  marble  has  been  removed  since  the  island  fell  into 
the  hands  of  the  Turks ;  and  perhaps  it  was  abandoned 
long  before ;  as  might  be  conjectured  from  the  ochreous 
colour  by  which  all  the  exterior  surface  of  the  marble  is 
now  invested.  We  seemed  therefore  to  view  the  grotto 
exactly  according  to  the  state  in  which  it  had  been  left  by 
the  Antients :  all  the  cavities,  cut  with  the  greatest  nicety, 
shewed  to  us,  by  the  sharpness  of  their  edges,  the  number 
and  the  size  of  every  mass  of  Parian  marble  which  had  been  Quarnes 
removed  for  the  sculptors  of  Antient  Greece.  If  the  stone  had 
possessed  the  softness  of  potter's  clay,  and  had  been  cut  by 
wires,  it  could  not  have  been  separated  with  greater  nicety, 
evenness,  and  economy.    The  most  evident  care  was  every- 

vol.  in.  3  h  where 


Marvellous 
skill  of  the 
Antients  in 
working  the 


TWWywWBW^BSCTWWtggBWWijj  MRU 


>?  I  ^i^'^'^AlRh  tW"^'  d*w*A*  H  J*^J»^/.i*J*Ali-_.  v-^^".^*_H!*fc*?'l«2l"*3 


^^^^Bff 


Bas-relief. 


ISLAND    OF  PAR  OS. 

where  displayed  that  there  should  be  no  waste  of  this 
precious  marble :  the  larger  squares  and  parallelograms 
corresponded,  as  a  mathematician  would  express  it,  by  a 
series  of  equimultiples  with  the  smaller,  in  such  a  manner 
that  the  remains  of  the  entire  vein  of  marble,  by  its  dipping 
inclination,  resembled  the  degrees  or  seats  of  a  theatre.  It 
was  impossible  to  view  such  a  source  of  materials  which  had 
exercised  the  genius  of  Grecian  sculptors,  without  fancying 
that  we  could  ascertain  the  different  works  for  which 
the  several  masses  had  been  removed.  "  Here,"  said  we, 
"  were  slabs  for  Metopes  and  Triglyphs;  there,  were  blocks 
for  altars  and  Doric  capitals ;  here  was  an  Apollo ;  there, 
a  Venus;  that  larger  cavity  may  have  supplied  a  mass  for  a 
Laocoon ;  from  this  place  they  perhaps  removed  a  Soros ; 
the  columns  taken  hence  had  evidently  divided  shafts,  there 
being  no  cavity  of  sufficient  length  to  admit  the  removal  of 
entire  pillars.^  These  and  similar  observations  continually 
escaped  us :  but  who  shall  explain  the  method  used  by  the 
Antients  in  hewing,  with  such  marvellous  precision,  and 
with  such  apparent  ease,  the  interior  of  this  quarry,  so  as 
neither  to  leave  one  casual  fracture,  nor  any  where  to  waste 
its  produce  ?  They  had  very  little  knowledge  of  machinery  ; 
but  human  labour  was  then  of  little  value,  and  the  most 
surprising  works  may  always  be  referred  to  ages  when  this 
was  easily  obtained. 

We  quitted  the  larger  quarry,  and  visited  another  some- 
what less  elevated.  Here,  as  if  the  Antients  had  resolved 
to  mark  for  posterity  the  scene  of  their  labours,  we  observed 
an  antient  bas-relief  upon  the  rock.     It  is  the  same  which 

Tournefort 


ISLAND   OF  PAROS.  419 

Tournefort  describes ' ;  although  he  has  erred  in  stating  the  ,  ^HAP>  ^  , 
subject  of  it.  It  is  a  more  curious  relique  than  is  commonly 
supposed.  The  French  have  twice  endeavoured  to  remove  it, 
by  sawing  the  marble  behind ;  but  perceiving  that  it  would 
separate  into  two  parts  if  they  persisted,  owing  to  a 
fissure  in  the  stone,  they  had  the  good  taste  to  abandon  the 
undertaking.  The  subject  is  literally  a  Grecian  Caricature.  It 
represents,  in  three  departments,  a  festival  of  Sile?ius,  mistaken 
by  Tournefort  for  Bacchus.  The  demigod  is  figured  in  the 
upper  part  of  it  as  a  corpulent  drunkard,  with  ass's  ears, 
accompanied  by  laughing  satyrs  and  dancing  girls.  A  female 
figure  is  represented  sitting,  with  a  fox  sleeping  in  her  lap. 
A  warrior  is  also  introduced,  wearing  a  Phrygian  bonnet. 
There  are  twenty-nine  figures;  and  below  is  this  inscription: 

A A A  M  AX 
OAPYIHI 
N  Y  M  <1>A  I  Z 

which  may  be  thus  rendered  into  English,  "  Adamas  Odryses    Exp'anati<m 

J  °  of  the 

to  the  Lasses,"  for  by  Nymphs  were  intended  unmarried  IuscriPtiou- 
women2.  Chandler,  in  his  Travels  in  Greece,  describes  the 
Nymphceum  near  Vary  in  Attica,  and  gives  three  inscrip- 
tions3, one  of  which  purports  that  "  Archidamus  made  the 
Cave  for  the  Nymphs."  In  another  inscription,  found  in  the 
same  Cave  of  the  Nymphs,  the  latter  part,  whether  designedly 

or 


(1)  Voy.  du  Lev.  torn.  I.  p.23g.    a  Lyon,  \7\7- 

(2)  See  Diod.  Sic.  Biblioth.  Hist.  lib.  iii.  Animad.  ad  Stat,  part  2.   Also  Tournefort, 
tom.  II.  p.  240.    Lyon,  1717. 

(3)  See  Inscript.  Antiq.  p.  76. 


420 


ISLAND   OF    PAROS. 


CHAP.  X. 


Origin  of 
the  Work. 


or  not,  is  an  Iambic  trimeter1.  In  the  Corycian  Cave, 
the  existence  of  which  was  discovered  by  the  author  in  a 
subsequent  part  of  these  Travels,  although  he  did  not  then  visit 
the  place2,  some  of  his  friends  found  an  inscription  to  Pan  and 
the  Nymphs3;  therefore  this  kind  of  dedication  was  common  in 
Greece.  The  marble  in  both  these  quarries  was  excavated  by 
the  lightof  lamps;  and  to  this  circumstance  Pliny  attributes  one 
of  its  names,  Lychnites*.  The  same  appellation  occurs  also 
in  Athenaeus5.  With  regard  to  the  image  of  Silenus,  in  the 
bas-relief,  it  has  never  been  observed  that  Pliny  mentions  it 
as  a  natural  curiosity,  and  one  of  the  marvels  of  Antient 
Greece.  The  figure  of  Silenus  was  accidentally  discovered, 
as  a  lusus  Natnrce,  in  splitting  the  rock ;  and,  of  course, 
all  the  other  parts  of  this  piece  of  sculpture  had  been 
adjusted  by  Odryscs  to  the  natural  representation,  when 
he  dedicated  his  work  to  the  young  women  of  the  island. 
Such  a  method  of  heightening  and  of  improving  any  casual 
effect  of  this  kind  has  been  very  common  in  all  countries, 
especially  where  the  populace  are  to  be  deluded  by  some 
supposed  prodigy :  and  thus  the  cause  is  explained  why 
this   singular  piece  of  sculpture,    so    rudely   executed,    yet 

remains 


(1)  <bpa£aZ<ji  Nvju<f>wi>  iivTpov  ifyipyrjactTO. 

(2)  See  "  Tomb  of  Alexander,"  p.  153.    Camb.  1805. 

(3)  Tlavirv/iKpatc.  The  inscription  was  discovered  by  Mr.  Raikes,  in  company  with 
Mr.  Gell,  Mr.  Dodwell,  and  others.  Mr.  Raikes  found  also  a  small  terra- cotta  vessel, 
elegantly  formed,  which  the  Antients  had  left,  as  an  ex  voto,  in  the  cave. 

(4)  "  Omnes  autem  candido  marmore  usi  sunt  e  Paro  insula,  quern  lapidem  coeperc 
Lychniten  appellare,  quoniam  ad  lucernas  in  cuniculis  csederetur."  Plin,  Hist.  Nat. 
lib.  xxxvi.  c.5.  torn.  III.  p.  468.    L.  Bat.  1625. 

(5)  Aldog  Av^ni/'t,    Athen.  Deipn.  lib.  v. 


ISLAND    OP    PAROS. 


421 


affords. 


remains  as  a  part  of  the  natural  rock  ;  whence  it  would  be  '  chap.x. 
an  act  of  worse  than  Gothic  barbarity  to  remove  it.  "A  won- 
derful circumstance,"  says  Pliny6,  "is  related  of  the  Parian 
quarries.  The  mass  of  entire  stone  being  separated  by  the  Evidence  it 
wedges  of  the  workmen,  there  appeared  within  it  an  effigy 
of  Stxenus."  In  the  existence  of  this  bas-relief  "as  an  integral 
part  of  the  natural  rock,  and  in  the  allusion  made  to  it  by  Pliny, 
we  have  sufficient  proof  that  these  were  antient  quarries 7 ; 
consequently  they  are  the  properest  places  to  resort  to  for  the 
identical  stone  whose  colour  was  considered  as  pleasing  to 
the  Gods 8,  which  was  used  by  Praxiteles9  and  by  other  illus- 
trious Grecian  sculptors,  and  celebrated  for  its  whiteness  by 

Pindar 


(6)  "  Sed  in  Pariorum  mirabile  proditur,  gleba  iapidis  unius  cuneis  dividentium  soluta, 
imaginem  Sileni  intus  extitisse."  Plin.  Hist.  Nat.  lib.\xx\i.  c.5.  torn.  III.  p. 468. 
L.  Bat.  1635. 

(7)  This  curious  las-relief,  together  with  the  entrance  to  the  quarry  which  contained 
it,  are  represented  in  the  Voyage  Pittoresque  of  Count  de  Choiseul  Gouffier,  (Voyage 
Pittoresque  de  la  Grece,  tome  I.  p.  68.  Paris,  1732.)  but  with  more  attention  to  the 
effect  of  a  beautiful  picture  than  to  accuracy  of  design.  The  plates  in  that  magnifi- 
cent work  are  almost  equal  in  their  style  of  composition,  and  in  their  execution,  to  the 
engravings  of  Audran,  from  paintings  by  Le  Brun ;  and  that  to  which  allusion  is  now 
made  is  faithful  in  every  thing,  except  in  the  detail  of  this  piece  of  antient  sculpture. 
A  reference  to  the  French  work  will,  however,  serve  to  shew  its  situation  in  the  quarry, 
and  render  unnecessary  any  further  attempt  at  delineation,  where  the  manner  of  it  must 
necessarily  be  so  very  inferior.  The  antiquity  itself  is  the  greatest  curiosity  in  the 
island ;  and  perhaps,  from  the  circumstance  which  Pliny  has  mentioned,  it  will  excite 
the  attention  of  travellers  more  than  it  has  hitherto  done. 

(8)  Plato  de  Leg.  torn.  II.  lib.  xii.  p.  296. 

(9)  Praxitelem  Paria  vindicat  arte  lapis"  Propertius,  lib.  iii.  Eleg.  vii.  16.  Also 
Quinctilian.  lib.  ii.  19.  "  Praxiteles  signum  aliquod  e  molari  lapide  conatus  est  exscul- 
pere,  Parium  marmor  vellem  rude:"  &c.  See  also  a  curious  Treatise  of  Blasius  Caryo- 
philus  (vulgh  Biagio  Garofolo,  JScupolitanus),  entitled  "  De  Antiquis  Marmoribus 
Opusculum,"  p.  10.    Utrecht,  1743  :  and  the  numerous  authors  therein  cited. 


I 


422 


CHAP.  X. 


ISLAND   OF  PAROS. 

Pindar1  and  by  Theocritus3.  We  collected  several  speci- 
mens :  in  breaking  them  we  observed  the  same  whiteness  and 
brilliant  fracture  which  characterizes  the  marble  of  Naxos,  but 
with  a  particular  distinction  before  mentioned — the  Parian 
marble  being  harder,  having  a  closer  grain,  and  a  less  foliated 
texture.  Three  different  stages  of  crystallization  may  be 
observed,  by  comparing  the  three  different  kinds  of  marble, 
dug  at  Carrara  in  Italy,  in  Paros,  and  in  Naxos  ;  the  Carrara 
marble  being  milk-white3  and  less  crystalline  than  the 
Parian;  and  the  Parian  whiter4  and  less  crystallized  than  the 
Naxian :  lastly,  as  a  completion  of  the  process,  may  be 
mentioned  the  stalactites,  or  alabaster,  of  Antiparos ;  in 
which  the  same  chemical  constituents  are  perfectly  crystal- 
lized, exhibiting  the  rhombo'idal  fracture  and  the  specific 
gravity  of  the    Iceland  spar,  which,    in  all  probability,  is 

also 


(1)  Vid.  Nem.  Ode  IV.  p.  262.    Genev.  1626. 

^LrdXctv  Qifitv  Tlapiov 
AiOov  XevKortpav. 

(2)  Theocritus  (Idyll,  vi.  38.)  compares  the  whiteness  of  teeth  with  Parian  marble  : 

TWV  %'<■   t  oZovtmv 

AevKorlpav  avydv  TIapla<;  virityatvt  XiOoio. 

(3)  Pliny  mentions  the  superior  whiteness  of  the  Carrara  marble,  in  comparing  it  with 
the  Parian.  The  quarries  of  Carrara  are  the  Lunensian  of  that  author;  Luna  being 
the  name  of  a  city,  and  Lunensis  that  of  a  promontory  near  to  the  modern  Carrara. 
"  Multis  postea  candidioribus  repertis,  nuper  etiam  in  Lunensium  lapidicinis."  Plin. 
Hist.  Nat.  lib.xxxv'u  c.5.  torn.  III.  p.  468.    L.  Bat.  1635. 

(4)  Although  the  Parian  was  not  the  whitest  marble  known  to  the  Antients,  as 
appears  by  the  preceding  Note,  yet  its  whiteness  was  one  cause  of  its  great  celebrity.  It 
is  thus  described  in  the  Itinerary  of  Antoninus  : 

INSVLA  PAROS 

IN   HAC   LAFiS   CANDIDISSIMVS    NASCITVK 

ttVI    DICITVR    PARIVS. 


«M«tfM,.i 


ISLAND   OF  PAROS. 


423 


also  a  stalactite.    These  phaenomena  do  oppose  striking  facts    t  CHAP- x- 
to  the   Plutonian  theory  of  the  crystallization  of  carbonated    Theory  of 

J  *  Crystalliza- 

lime  by  means  of  heat  and  pressure:  not  that  the  author  tion« 
wishes  to  maintain  any  argument  against  the  possibility  of 
crystallization  by  means  of  heat,  because  all  that  seems 
necessary  for  crystallization  is  a  separation  of  particles,  and 
a  subsequent  retreat.  Whether  this  separation  be  effected  by 
solution,  or  by  fusion  (which  is  only  another  name  for 
solution) ;  and  whether  the  retreating  body  be  an  aqueous 
fluid,  or  the  fluid  matter  of  heat ;  a  regularity  of  structure 
may  equally  become  the  result :  basaltic  forms  have  been 
recognised  in  the  bottom  of  a  furnace5,  as  well  as  upon  the 
borders  of  a  lake6.  The  facts  now  adduced  are  opposed,  it 
is  true,  to  the  Plutonian  theory  ;  because  they  prove  the 
crystallization  of  carbonated  lime  by  an  aqueous  process  :  but 
they  affect  this  theory  only  as  a  system  which  generalizes  too 
much  from  partial  appearances,  in  explaining  the  formation 
of  mineral  bodies. 


(5)  A  specimen  exhibiting  a  basaltic  configuration,  as  found  in  the  bottom  of  an  iron 
furnace,  is  preserved  in  the  Royal  Collection  at  Stockholm. 

(6)  Witness  the  lakes  in  the  South  of  Sweden ;  the  Lake  of  Bolsenna  in  Italy  y 
the  Lake  of  Gennesareth  in  the  Holy  Land ;  &c.  Sec. 


• 


CHAP.  XI. 


Voyage  to 
Syros. 


CHAP.  XI. 


PAROS    TO   ATHENS. 

Voyage  to  Syros — Affecting  Interview — Syr  a — Plants — Remains  of 
AnUent  Customs — Gems  and  Medals — State  of  the  Island — Voyage 
to  Gyarus  —  Hydriots  —  Wretched  Condition  of  Jura  — Voyage  to 
lixa. —  Carthcea  —  Ravages  committed  by  the  Russians  —  Ruins  of 
Ioulis  —  Medals  —  Hospitality  of  the  Modern  Greeks — Antient 
Dances — Produce  of  Zia — Minerals — The  Author  sails  for  Athens 
— View  near  the  Mouth  of  the  Sinus  Saronicus — Sunium — Temple 
q/'Minerva  Sunias — Anecdote  of  a  Naval  Officer — Patrocleia — Other 
Islands  in  the  Saronic  Gulph — Calaurea — Albanians — Elimbo — 
First  Sight  of  Athens — Zoster  Promontory — Doubtful  Story  of 
Minerva  s  Statue — Arrival  at  the  Piraeus — Approach  to  Athens. 

J*  rom  the  quarries  of  Marpessus  we  descended  again  to 
Parechia ;  and  the  next  day,  the  wind  being  favourable, 
although  somewhat  boisterous,  we  embarked,  and  set  sail 
for  Syros,  now  called  Syra.  Our  Captain  would  have 
steered  for  Delos :  but  this  island,  since  the  visit  paid  to  it 

by 


VOYAGE  TO   SYR  OS.  425 

by  the  Russians,  has  been  stripped   of  all  its  valuable  anti-    t  CHAP,XL. 

quities ;  besides  this,  the  gale  we  had  encountered  between 

Patmos  and  Naxos  had  somewhat  intimidated  us ;   and  as 

our  crazy  old  caique  was   not  sea-worthy,  we  resolved  to 

run  for  the  most  western  port  in  our  course  towards  the 

Saronic  Bay,  now  called  the  Gulph  of  Engia  from  a  modern 

name  of  the  Island  of  Mgina.    We  saw  the  Delian  Isles  as 

we  passed  with  a  rapidity  known  only  to  the  swallows1  of  the 

Archipelago,  and  entered  the  harbour  of  Syra  in  the  morning 

of  October  the  twenty- second.    Our  faithful  Greek  servant, 

who  had  travelled  with  us  as  our  interpreter  ever  since  we 

left  Petersburg,  burst  into  tears  at  the  sight  of  a  small  chapel 

constructed  upon  a  rock  in  the  port,  which  he  had  himself 

assisted  in  building  some  years  before.     He  described  it  as  the 

votive  offering  of  a  party  of  young  Greeks  to  their  patron 

Saint :  but  his  feelings  experienced  a  severer  trial  when  we    Affecting 

Interview* 

landed  ;  for  in  the  person  of  an  old  man,  established  as  a 
wine-seller  upon  the  quay,  he  recognised  his  own  father, 
of  whose  fortunes  and  situation  he  had  long  been  ignorant. 
The  islanders  bore  a  part  in  the  joy  of  this  meeting ;  and 
their  national  hospitality  was,  in  consequence,  redoubled. 
All  the  young  people  came  to  express  their  congratulations, 
and  a  party  began  the  Romdca*.    Antonio  hastened  again  on 

board 


3Bi 


(1)  This  is  one  of  the  names  given  to  the  boats  used  for  navigating  the  Archipelago. 

(2)  The  Romeca,  the  most  popular  of  all  the  dances  of  the  Modern  Greeks,  is 
faithfully  and  beautifully  represented  in  the  Voyage  Pittoresque  de  la  Grece  of  Count 
De  Choiseul  Gouffier,  from  a  drawing  by  /.  B.  Hilair,  engraved  by  Martini.  See  Plate 
facing  p.  68.  vol.  I.  of  that   work,  Paris,  1/82.      "The  passion  of  the  Greeks  for 

VOL.  III.  3  I  dancing,", 


426 


ISLAND   OF  SYROS. 


CHAP.  XI. 


Syra. 


board  for  his  balalaika1,  and,  joining  the  festive  throng, 
gave  himself  up  entirely  to  singing  and  dancing  for  the 
remainder  of  the  day  and  night.  Towards  evening  we  saw 
him  in  the  midst  of  a  very  numerous  choir,  inviting  us  to 
taste  of  the  wine  with  which  his  father  was  making  libations 
to  all  comers. 

The  town  of  Syra  is  built  upon  the  summit  of  a  lofty 
hill,  so  remarkable  for  its  conical  form  that  it  may  be  com- 
pared to  a  vast  sugar-loaf  covered  with  houses.  At  the  base 
of  this  cone  is  the  quay,  where  there  are  several  warehouses 
for  supplying  vessels  with  the  produce  of  the  island,  which  is 
principally  wine.  There  are  some  ruins  near  the  port;  and 
many  antient  marbles  are  said  to  remain  buried  behind  the 
magazines.  We  met  the  English  Consul  soon  after  we 
landed,  and  accompanied  him  to  his  house  in  the  town  ; 
where  we  were  regaled  with  an  excellent  conserve,  highly 
esteemed  by  the  Greeks,  made  of  the  apples  (as  they  are  called) 
of  a  species  of  Sage,  the  Salvia  pomifera:  these  apples  are  pro- 
duced in  the  same  manner  as  galls  upon  the  oak,  and  they  are 
owing  to  punctures  made  by  a  species  ofCynips  in  the  branches 
of  the  plant.  The  common  Sage  of  the  Island  of  Crete  has  the 
same  excrescencies;  which  are  there  carried  to  market  under 
the  name  of  sage-apples'1.    This  conserve  is  said  to  possess 

the 


dancing,"  (says  Mons.  De  Guys,  vol.  I.  p.  208.  Lond.  1781.)  "  is  common  to  both  sexe>; 

who  neglect  every  other  consideration,   when  they  have  an   opportunity  of  indulgirg 
that  passion." 

(1)  The  antient  guitar  of  Scythia  and  Tartary.     See  Part  I.  of  these  Travels,  Plcte 
facing  p.  244.  Second  edit.  Br oxbourn,  1811 ;  exhibiting  its  use   among  the  Calmuck 

tribes. 

(2)  Tournef.  Voy.  du  Lev.  torn.  I.  p.  93.  Lyon,  1717- 


ISLAND    OF  SYROS. 


427 


the  healing  and  salutary  quality  of  Sage  in  general:  we 
perceived  in  it  an  agreeable  astringent,  and  somewhat  bitter 
favour;  but  as  almost  any  vegetable  may  be  used  for 
conserves,  and  the  savour  is  often  owing  to  other  ingredients, 
very  little  of  this  taste  might  be  owing  to  the  produce  of 
the  Sage.  The  plant  itself  thrives  abundantly  upon  this 
island,  growing  to  the  size  of  a  small  shrub.  Sage  leaves  are 
collected  annually  by  the  Greeks,  and  dried,  to  be  used  medi- 
cinally as  an  infusion :  they  are  very  particular  in  the  time 
and  manner  of  collecting  these  leaves  ;  they  are  gathered  on 
the  first  of  May,  before  sun-rise.  The  flavour  and  smell  of  the 
Grecian  Sage  is  much  more  powerful  than  in  the  Salvia  offici- 
nalis,so  common  in  the  English  gardens.  We  sometimes  drank 
an  infusion  of  the  leaves,  instead  of  tea  :  it  had  the  effect  of 
exciting  a  profuse  perspiration,  and  perhaps  may  be  useful  in 
those  dangerous  obstructions  to  which  perspiration  is  liable 
in  an  Eastern  climate  ;  but  it  produces  languor,  and  even 
faintness,  if  it  be  used  in  any  excess.  In  mentioning  the 
plants  of  Syra,  there  is  one  of  so  much  beauty  and  rarity  that 
it  ought  not  to  pass  without  especial  notice :  it  is  called 
the  Tree  Pink,  Dianthus  Arboreus,  and  pre-eminently 
merits  its  lofty  name  of  AI02  AN0O2.  It  grows  also  in 
Seriphos :  but  Syra  is  the  only  place  in  all  Greece  whence 
we  were  able  to  obtain  specimens ;  and  we  did  not  find 
these   ourselves  upon  the  island3.     Perhaps   the  season   was 

too 


CHAP.  XI. 


(3)  We  were  indebted  for  tliem  to  the  kindness  of  Mr.  Dodwell,  who  visited  Syra 
in  company  with  Mr.  Gell.  The  former  has  since  distinguished  himself  by  his  indefa- 
tigable researches  in  Greece,  particularly  by  the  attention  he  has  bestowed  upon  the 
antient  sepulchres  of  the  country. 


Plants. 


428 


CHAP.  XT. 


Remains  of 

Antient 

Customs. 


ISLAND   OF   SYROS. 

too  far  advanced  to  observe  this  beautiful  ornament  of 
the  Grecian  Isles ;  for  we  were  unable  to  find  many  other 
rarities  which  have  been  described  as  natives  of  Syria, 
although  we  remained  two  days  in  search  of  them,  parti- 
cularly the  plant  which  produces  the  Persian  Manna, 
mentioned  by  Tournefort1,  Hedysarum  Alhagi.  The  Dianthus 
arboreus,  both  in  Syra  and  in  Seriphos2,  sprouts  out  of 
the  crevices  of  the  most  rugged  and  otherwise  barren  rocks. 
It  was  raised  from  seed  in  the  Royal  Garden  at  Paris,  in  the 
time  of  Tournefort ;  "  where,"  says  that  author3,  "  it  has 
sustained  no  change  by  its  altered  situation,  but  maintains 
the  honours  of  Greece  amidst  an  infinite  number  of  rare 
plants  from  the  same  country."  No  traveller  has  yet  added 
this  very  uncommon  species  of  Dianthus  to  the  botanic 
gardens  of  our  island. 

There  is  no  other  town  or  village  upon  the  island 
excepting  this  which  so  singularly  covers  the  sugar-loaf 
hill  above  the  quay;  and  the  number  of  inhabitants  does 
not  exceed  four  thousand,  almost  all  of  whom  profess  the 
Catholic  religion  :  yet  there  is  no  part  of  the  Archipelago 
where  the  traveller  will  find  the  antient  customs  of  Greece 
more  purely  preserved.  Syros  was  the  original  name  of  the 
town,  as  well  as  of  the  island.    Some  traces  of  its  ruins  still 

exist 


(1)  Tournefort.  Voyage  du  Levant,  tom.ll.  p. 4.  Lyon,  1717.  It  is  the  Alhagi 
Maurorum  of  Rauwolf.  Sir  George  Wheler  found  it  in  Tinos.  Manna  is  found  on  this 
plant  in  Mesopotamia  and  in  other  Eastern  countries.  (See  Russel's  Aleppo.)  It  grows 
plentifully  near  Tauris. 

(2)  Tournef.  Voy.  du.  Lev.  torn.  I.  p.  219.  (3)  Ibid. 


^SSmmammm-f 


ISLAND  OF  SYROS. 


429 


exist  near  the  port.  The  modern  town  of  Syr  a  probably 
occupies  the  site  of  the  antient  Acropolis.  The  island  has 
been  always  renowned  for  the  advantages  it  enjoys,  in  the 
excellence  of  its  port,  in  its  salubrity,  and  its  fertility.  It  is 
thus  extolled  by  Homer4: 

Ey (2oto g,  evftqXog,  ohoir'kriQrjg,  iroXvvvPog . 
It  produces  wine,  figs,  cotton,  barley,  and  also  wheat, 
although  not  so  plentifully  as  barley.  We  saw  an  abun- 
dance of  poultry,  and  a  very  fine  breed  of  pigs ;  but  the 
streets  of  the  town  are  as  dirty  and  as  narrow  as  they 
probably  were  in  the  days  of  Homer.  If  the  antient  Persians 
have  been  characteristically  described  as  the  worshippers  of 
jire,  the  inhabitants  of  Syra,  both  antient  and  modern,  may 
be  considered  as  the  worshippers  of  water.  The  old  fountain, 
at  which  the  nymphs  of  the  island  assembled  in  the  earliest 
ages,  exists  in  its  original  state ;  the  same  rendezvous  as  it 
was  formerly,  whether  of  love  and  gallantry,  or  of  gossiping 
and  tale-telling.  It  is  near  to  the  town,  and  the  most 
limpid  water  gushes  continually  from  the  solid  rock.  It  is 
regarded  by  the  inhabitants  with  a  degree  of  religious  vene- 
ration ;  and  they  preserve  a  tradition  that  the  pilgrims  of 
old  time,  in  their  way  to  Delos,  resorted  hither  for  purification. 
We  visited  the  spot  in  search  of  an  Inscription  mentioned 
by  Tournefort  %  but  we  could  not  find  it :  we  saw,  however, 
a  pleasing  procession,  formed  by  the  young  women  of  the 
island,  coming   with   songs,    and   carrying    their    pitchers 

on 


CHAP.  XI. 


(4)  Odyss.  O.  v.405. 

(5)  Tournef.  Toy.  du  Lev.  torn.  II.  p.  4.    Lyon,  1^17. 


i.*f»«»x**      $K4£*lMi»> 


430 


CHAP.  XI. 


ISLAND  OF  SYROS. 

on  their  heads,  from  this  fountain.  Here  they  are  met  by 
their  lovers,  who  relieve  them  from  their  burdens,  and  bear 
a  part  in  the  general  chorus.  It  is  also  the  scene  of  their 
dances,  and  therefore  the  favourite  rendezvous  of  the  youth 
of  both  sexes.  The  Eleusinian  women  practised  a  dance 
about  a  well  which  was  called  Callichoms,  and  their  dance 
Was  also  accompanied  by  songs  in  honour  of  Ceres.  These 
"  So?igs  of  the  Well"  are  still  sung  in  other  parts  of  Greece 
as  well  as  in  Syra.  De  Guys  mentions  them.  He  says  that 
he  has  seen  the  young  women  in  Prince's  Island,  assembled 
in  the  evening  at  a  public  well,  suddenly  strike  up  a  dance,, 
while  others  sung  in  concert  to  them1.  The  Antient  Poets 
composed  verses  which  were  sung  by  the  people  while  they 
drew  the  water,  and  were  expressly  denominated  "  Songs  of 
the  Well"  Aristotle,  as  cited  by  Winkelmann,  says  the 
public  wells  serve  as  so  many  cements  to  society,  uniting 
the  people  in  bands  of  friendship  by  the  social  intercourse 
of  dancing  so  frequently  together  around  them2.  This  may 
serve  to  explain  the  cause  of  the  variety  of  beautiful  lamps, 
pitchers,  and  other  vessels  of  terra  cotta,  which  have  been 
found  at  the  bottom  of  wells  in  different  parts  of  Greece ; 
as  well  as  to  direct  the  attention  of  travellers  towards  the 
cleansing  of  dry  wells,  who  are  desirous  of  procuring  those 
valuable  antiquities.  Among  other  antient  customs  still 
existing  in  Syra,  the  ceremonies  of  the  vintage  are  particu- 
larly  conspicuous.     Before  sun-rise,    a   number   of  young 

women 


(1)  Letters  on  Greece,  vol.  I.  p.  220.    Loud.  1/81. 

(2)  Ibid. 


ISLAND   OF  SYROS.  ' 

women  are  seen  coming  towards  the  town,  covered  with  the 
branches  and  leaves  of  the  vine  ;  when  they  are  met  or 
accompanied  by  their  lovers,  singing  loud  songs,  and  joining 
in  a  circular  dance.  This  is  evidently  the  orbicular  choir9 
who  sung  the  Dithyrambi,  and  danced  that  species  of  song 
in  praise  of  Bacchus.  Thus  do  the  present  inhabitants  of 
these  islands  exhibit  a  faithful  portraiture  of  the  manners 
and  customs  of  their  progenitors ;  the  ceremonies  of  antient 
Greece  have  not  been  swept  away  by  the  revolutions  of 
the  country :  even  the  representations  of  the  theatre,  the 
favourite  exhibitions  of  the  Attic  drama,  are  yet  beheld,  as 
they  existed  among  the  people  before  they  were  removed 
from  the  scenes  of  common  life  to  become  the  ornaments  of 
the  Grecian  stage. 

Some  verv  fine  gems  and  medals  were  shewn  to  us  by    Gems  and 

J  D  Medals. 

a  native  of  Syra ;  but  the  price  he  demanded  for  them 
exceeded  all  moderation.  One  of  the  gems  was  of  high 
antiquity.  It  was  an  intaglio  of  red  jasper;  the  subject 
Pegasus,  with  wings  inflected  towards  the  head,  in  the  most 
antient  style  of  the  art;  a  boar  was  also  introduced,  with 
the  singular  representation  as  of  a  battering  ram  projecting 
from  its  breast.  Among  the  medals  there  were  two  of  silver, 
in  good  preservation.  The  first  was  of  Chios  :  it  exhibited 
in  front  a  winged  sphinx,  and  for  reverse  the  diota,  with 
this  legend,  APrElOX  XIOZ.  The  other  was  very  small,  but 
of  extraordinary  beauty ;  probably  it  was  of  Clazomence  in 

Ionia, 


(3)  'EynvKktoc  \opo<;.     See  De  Guys,  vol.  I.  p.  218  5  and  the  authors  by  him  cited. 


432 


CHAP.  XI. 


State  of  the 
Island. 


ISLAND   OF  SYROS. 

Ionia,  and  possibly  of  Cititim  in  Cyprus'.    The  head  of  a 
youthful  Deity  appeared  in  front,  in  very  high  relief;  and  the 
reverse,  equally  prominent,  exhibited  the  image  of  a  ram 
couched.    Among  all  the  subjects  represented  upon  Grecian 
medals,   nothing  is  more  rare  than  the  figure  of  this  very 
common  quadruped.     Almost  every  other  sacred  animal  may 
be  observed  :  but  the  sheep,  so  often  the  object  of  sacrifice^ 
not  only  seldom  occurs,  but  when  it  has  been  found  upon 
an  antient  medal,  it  is  always  upon  one  of  the  highest  anti- 
quity, destitute  of  any  legend,  and  which  generally  classes, 
in  numismatic  collections,  among  coins  of  uncertain  or  of 
unknown  origin.    The  cause  of  this  has  not  been  explained. 
The  minerals  of  Syra  are  rather  remarkable,  considering 
the  prevalence  of  limestone  among  the  Grecian  Isles.     We 
found  fragments  of  green  steatites  and.  schistus  containing 
garnet.    The  mercury  in  Fahrenheit's  thermometer  stood  at 
75'  at  noon,  on  the  first  day  after  our  arrival,   and  at   78 
upon  the  second ;  which  is  the  average  temperature  of  the 
city  of  Naples,  during  the  summer  months,  situated  above 
three    degrees    nearer   to   the    pole :    and   as    the   climates 
both  of  Italy  and  Greece  are  very  regular,   this  autumnal 
temperature    in   Syra  is  about    commensurate    to    the    dif- 
ference of  latitude.    There  is  not  a  Turk  to  be  found  upon 
the  island  ;  its  inhabitants  are  all  Greeks ;  and  as  they  profess 
the  Catholic  religion,  it  might  have  afforded  a  comfortable 
asylum  for   many   of  those    expatriated    Frenchmen   who 

were 

(l)  See  the  Vignette  to  Chap.  XI.  Part  II.  of  these  Trav.  Sect.  l. 


■*- 


VOYAGE    TO   GYARUS.  433 

were  driven  by  the  calamities  of  their  country  all  over  the      ™AP  XL , 
Levant ;   some  of  whom  we  had  seen  in  places  of  residence 
less  suited  to   their  circumstances,  and    where   they  were 
exposed    to    inconveniences   which   they   would   not   have 
encountered  in  this  healthy  and  wealthy  island. 

Saturday,    October     the    twenty- fourth,    a   light   wind    voyage  to 

J  .  Gyartts. 

tempted  us  to  weigh  anchor  at  three  a.  m.  intending  to  sail 
for  Ceos,  now  called  2,'ia.  After  we  left  the  port,  we  were 
becalmed  :  but  about  eight,  we  found  ourselves  to  be  near  to 
the  Island  of  Tenos  ;  and  at  nine,  the  wind  coming  aft,  we 
bore  away  for  Gyarus,  now  called  Jura.  After  we  had 
doubled  the  northern  point  of  Syra,  we  saw  the  Promontory 
of  Eubo3\,  called  Carpharde ;  also  Andros,  Jura,  and  Z'ia. 
Jura  is  only  twelve  geographical  miles  from  the  nearest  point 
of  Syra  ;  it  is  now  almost  uninhabited,  but  we  were  curious 
to  visit  a  spot  alluded  to  by  Juvenal2  as  a  place  of  banishment 
for  Roman  criminals  :  and  soon  afterwards  we  landed.  The 
Master  of  our  caique  wished  to  sail  between  some  rocks 
into  the  harbour,  and  for  this  purpose  desired  us  to  ascend 
the  heights,  and  point  out  a  passage  for  the  vessel.  When 
we  had  done  this,  we  clearly  discerned  the  rocks  below  the 
surface,  and  were  much  amazed  at  the  very  great  depth  in 
the  water  which  our  situation  enabled  us  to  view.  Being 
within  hearing  of  the  crew,  we  called  to  them,  and  gave 
them  instructions  how  to  steer;  by  which  means  the  caique 
was  conducted  through  a  gorge  where  none  but  Greek 
sailors  w7ould  think  of  venturing.     While  we   were  in  this 

situation, 

(2)  "  Aude  aliquid  brevibus  Gyaris  et  carcere  dignum."     Juv.  Sat. 
VOL.  III.  3  K 


434 


CHAP.  XI. 


Hydriots. 


BAY    OF    JURA. 

situation,  looking  down  upon  the  vessel  and  the  harbour, 
there  came  suddenly  round  the  northern  point  of  the  island 
a  long  narrow  open  boat,  like  a  dart,  filled  with  mariners, 
believed  by  our  sailors  to  be  Hydriots,  to  the  number  of  thirty 
or  forty,  all  plying  their  oars;  who  presently  landed,  removed 
from  the  rocks  some  spars  which  they  had  previ  ously  left 
there ;  and  pushing  out  again  to  sea,  disappeared  with  the 
same  surprising  velocity  with  which  they  had  arrived.  We 
saw  their  little  bean-cod,  as  it  were  instantaneously,  reduced 
to  a  speck  upon  the  waves :  and  while  we  were  admiring 
the  dauntless  intrepidity  with  which  these  men,  in  a  bark 
that  could  be  compared  only  to  a  long  canoe,  ventured  to 
cross  such  a  dangerous  sea,  our  Captain  arrived ;  who  said 
we  might  thank  our  good  stars  that  they  did  not  plunder 
our  vessel  of  every  thing  she  contained.  He  added,  that  there 
was  not  a  part  of  the  Archipelago  which  the  Hydriots  would 
not  traverse  in  such  a  boat,  venturing  in  all  wreather,  and 
braving  the  most  tempestuous  seas :  and  the  only  reason  he 
could  give  for  their  not  having  attacked  our  caique  was, 
that  he  believed  they  did  not  see  it;  for  it  had  not  cleared 
the  passage  of  the  rocks  before  they  left  the  harbour.  We 
remained  in  the  Bay  of  Jura  during  the  rest  of  this  day,  and 
the  following  night.  The  few  inhabitants  of  this  desolate 
spot,  believing  us  to  be  pirates,  were  afraid  to  approach ; 
so  that  although  we  saw  a  few  traces,  as  of  human 
beings,  upon  the  island,  not  one  of  them  appeared.  We 
collected  a  few  plants  and  minerals.  The  mountain  around 
the  bay,  and  especially  that  part  of  it  which  extends  in 
the   same   line    of  direction    as  Syra,   consists  of  schistus, 

containing 


BAY   OF   JURA. 


435 


CHAP.  XI. 


containing  masses  of  quartz,  exhibiting  a  beautiful  contrast 
of  colour.  We  found  some  quartz  crystallized,  and  also 
crystals  of  carbonated  lime.     Tournefort  describes  Jura  as    wretched 

Condition  of 

the  most  barren  and  disagreeable  spot  in  the  Archipelago,  Jura, 
and  says  its  plants  are  all  of  them  common.  It  is  not  more 
than  four  leagues  in  circumference.  In  the  time  of  Strabo, 
and  indeed  in  all  ages,  its  poverty  and  wretchedness  were 
proverbial ;  and,  while  a  less  contemned  spot  hardly  obtains 
from  that  author  any  other  notice  than  the  introduction  of 
its  name,  Gyarus,  from  the  supremacy  of  its  indigence, 
occupies  a  more  considerable  portion  of  his  regard1.  A  mean 
and  miserable  village,  inhabited  solely  by  fishermen,  was  the 
only  settlement  at  that  time  upon  its  barren  rocks  :  he  men- 
tions their  embassy  to  Augustus,  who  was  at  Corinth,  after  the 
battle  of  Actium,  praying  a  diminution  of  their  annual  tribute, 
which  they  were  unable  to  pay ;  and  he  cites  the  antient  poet 
Aratus,  to  shew  how  long  the  poverty  of  the  island  had 
been  its  only  distinction2.  Tournefort  has  countenanced 
the  story  related  by  Pliny5  of  the  expulsion  of  its  inhabitants 
by  rats,   or  by  field-mice  ;    affirming  that  he  saw  some  large 

animals 


(1)  Vid.  Strab.  Geog.  lib.  x.  p.  708.    Oxon.  I8O7. 

(2)  "  ArjXol  cc  T(i<;  dvopias  avruv  tcaVAparos  iv  role  Kara  Xtrrroy, 

Tft  Ai)to~i,  ffv  fiivsie  fiiv  crtSypdr]  tyoXtydvdpp 
AtiXrj,  rj  Yiiapov  TrapeXevaai  uvriy/  6p.oiqv. 
Paupertatem  eorum  etiam  Aratus  sic  innuit  in  minutis : 

Te  Latona  tenet,  puto,  ferrea  nunc  Pholegandrus, 
Aut  Gyaron  nihilo  meliorem  forte  subisti." 

Strabon.  Geog.  lib.x.  p.  7O9.     Oxon.  I8O7. 

(3)  Vid.  Plin.   Hist.  Nat.  lib.  viii.  c.29.    De  Civitat.  et  Gent,  a  minutis  animalibus 
deletce.     "  Ex  Gyaro  Cycladum  insulk  incolas  a  muribus  fugatos,"  &c. 


436 


BAY    OF    JURA. 


CHAP.  XI. 


Voyage  to  Z'ia. 


animals  of  this  kind  which  were  probably  of  the  antient 
race1.  Instead  of  the  field-mice,  we  saw  plenty  of  sheep 
and  goats  belonging  to  the  people  of  Syra ;  yet  the 
existence  of  the  animals  mentioned  by  Pliny  is  attested  by 
many  authors,  some  of  whom  pretend  that,  driven  by  hunger, 
the  mice  have  been  constrained  to  gnaw  the  iron  ore  taken  from 
the  mines" ;  a  most  improbable  story :  but  we  perhaps  learn 
from  it  the  reason  why  exiles  were  sent  hither  by  the 
Romans  ;  the  labour  of  mining  having  been  antiently,  as  it 
is  now  in  many  countries,  a  punishment  allotted  to  state 
criminals :  however,  we  perceived  no  traces  either  of  the 
mineral  thus  alluded  to,  or  of  the  works  carried  on  for  its 
excavation. 

We  left  Jura  for  Z'ia,  October  the  twenty-fifth,  the 
weather  being  calm.  As  we  drew  near  to  Zia,  there  sprung 
a  fresh  breeze,  and  our  sailors  endeavoured  to  steer  the 
caique  into  what  they  believed  to  be  the  harbour  of  the 
island,  at  its  northern  extremity.  Fortunately  we  had  a 
small  compass,  and  a  copy  of  Tournefort's  travels,  the  accu- 
racy of  whose  maps  we  had  before  proved ;  and,  finding  that 
neither  our  Captain  nor  any  one  of  the  Casiot  crew  knew 
anything  of  the  coast,  the  author  undertook  to  pilot  the 
vessel  into  a  harbour  which  he  had  never  seen,  and  actually 
by  the   aid   of  charts   which  have  neither   soundings   nor 

bearings 

(l)  "  Nous  n'y  vimes  que  de  gros  mulots,  peut-etre  de  la  race  de  ceux  qui  obli- 
gerent  les  habitans  de  l'isle  de  l'abaudoner,  comme  Pline  le  rapporte."  Tournef. 
V  y.  du.  Lev.  torn.  II.  p.  30.    Lyon,  1717. 

('4)  See  the  Authors  as  cited  by  Tournefort:  Antigon.  Carist.  Narrat.  Mirab.  cap.  12. 
Arist.  lib.  de  Mirab.  Ausc.    /Elian.  Hist.  Anim.  lib.  V.  cap.  14.  Steph.  Byxant.  &c. 


VOYAGE   TO    ZIA. 


437 


bearings3.  As  soon  as  we  had  doubled  the  northern  point  chap. xi. 
of  the  island,  the  wind  freshened  apace;  but  it  came  entirely 
aft,  with  a  heavy  sea,  which  drove  us  before  it  with  great 
rapidity  down  the  channel  between  Z'ia  and  the  island  lying 
off  Cape  Sunium,  antiently  called  Helena,  and  now 
Macronisi.  Presently  the  mouth  of  the  port  which  is  on 
the  western  side  of  Z'ia,  opposite  to  Helena,  began  to 
appear:  but  we  stood  on,  so  as  to  clear  any  rocks  which 
might  be  on  its  northern  side,  and  to  have  a  full  view 
of  the  entrance,  which  is  between  the  finest- North- West, 
and  West;  and  then  we  luffed,  and  stood  towards  it.  In 
this  manner  we  entered  the  port,  about  noon,  in  per- 
fect safety  ;  and  found  there  a  Ragusan  ship  at  anchor. 
It  is  a  very  large  and  commodious  haven,  fit  for  ships  of 
any  burden,  and  even  for  the  largest  fleets.  It  extends,  in 
an  elliptical  form,  from  the  north  towards  the  south  :  the  best 
anchorage  is  upon  the  southern  side,  but  small  vessels  may 
anchor  anywhere.  The  great  article  of  commerce  belonging 
to  the  island,  now  exported  from  this  harbour,  consists  of 
the  acorns  of  the  Velani  Oak4,  Quercus  JEgilops,  used  for 
dyeing.  A  kind  of  cloak  made  of  goat's  hair,  which 
is  sold  in  the  port,  is  said  by  Tournefort  to  be  manufactured 
in  Z"ia:  but  in  this  he  was  mistaken;   for  those  cloaks  are 

brought 


(3)  See  Tournef.  Voy.  du  Lev.  torn.  II.  pp.  14,  21.     Lyon,  \7\7- 

(4)  Tournefort  describes  this  beautiful  species  of  oak  as  growing  to  the  size  of  our 
common  oak,  the  Quercus  Ro/ur.  We  never  observed  the  Quercus  sEgilops  but  as 
a  shrub  ;  however,  the  accuracy  of  such  a  writer  as  Tournefort  is  by  no  means  to  be 
disputed  upon  a  point  that  he  was  so  peculiarly  qualified  to  determine.  The  Velani 
acorns  which  we  brought  to  the  botanic  Garden  at  Cambridge,  although  collected  with 
the  utmost  care,  did  not  produce  a  single  plant.    ; 


SmHHmHmmIMmmmH 


438 


CHAP.  XI. 


Carthaea. 


Ravages 
committed  by 
the  Russians. 


ISLAND    OF    ZIA. 

brought  to  Zia  from  the  Isle  of  Joura,  pronounced  Zoura, 
near  Salonica.  There  has  been  a  great  defalcation  in  the  sale 
of  the  Velani  acorns  :  formerly  they  sold  for  forty  pounds 
sterling  the  quintal ;  and  when  we  arrived,  the  dealers  in 
this  article  were  glad  to  get  fifteen  pounds  sterling  for  the 
same  quantity.  The  produce  of  the  island  in  these  acorns 
alone  amounts  annually  to  fifteen  thousand  quintals. 

It  being   Sunday,  we  found  nobody  at  the  quay,    and 
therefore  set  off  for  the  town,   and  the  only  one  upon  the 
island;  it  is  at  the  distance  of  three  miles  from  the  harbour: 
we    passed    through  a  valley    towards    it,    and    afterwards 
ascended  to  the  hill  on  which  it  stands.     It  is  built  upon 
the  site  of  the  antient  Garthcea,    after  the  manner  of  the 
town  of  Syra,  but  in  the  form   of  a  theatre,  and  upon  a 
much  higher  mountain;  the  houses  being  erected  in  terraces 
one  above  another,  so  that  the  roofs  of  a  range  of  dwellings 
below  serve  as   a  street    to  another  range  above.      Those 
streets,  as  at  Syra,  are  beyond  description  filthy.     Such  a  sin- 
gular manner  of  building  gives  to  the  place  a  very  novel  and 
extraordinary  appearance.     The  citadel  is  upon  the  left,  to  a 
person  entering  by  the  narrow  pass  that  leads  to  the  town ; 
and  here,  says  Tournefort1,  sixty  Turks,  armed  only  with  two 
muskets,  defended   themselves   against  the  whole  Venetian 
army.     The  ravages  committed  by  the  Russians,  when  their 
fleet  visited   this  island  during  the  reign   of  Catharine  the 
Second,  were  even  yet  the  subject  of  conversation.  The  inha- 
bitants told  us  that  their  houses  were  entirely  stripped  by 

them. 


(1)  Voy.  du  Lev.  torn.  II.  p.  15. 


MMimHbWka 


ISLAND    OF    ZIA. 

them.  The  specious  promises  which  they  held  out  to  the 
people  of  Greece  are  now  seen  in  their  true  light  by  that 
people,  and  they  will  not  again  become  the  dupes  of  any 
Scythian  treaty.  Sonnini  says  they  had  rendered  the  very 
name  of  Liberty  so  odious  at  Paros,  that  the  inhabitants 
would  hear  no  proposals  for  their  deliverance  from  the 
power  of  the  Turks  ;  they  preferred  Turkish  despotism  to 
Russian  emancipation.  "  Armed,"  says  he2,  "  in  appearance 
for  the  purpose  of  restoring  to  the  Greeks  their  antient 
liberty,  they  (the  Russians)  became  their  scourge."  Surely 
the  examples  of  national  perfidy  they  have  afforded  will  not 
be  lost  upon  the  Cabinets  of  Europe.  It  was  not  the 
property  of  the  natives  alone  which  suffered  upon  this 
occasion :  the  Russians  removed  or  destroyed  the  most 
valuable  antiquities;  which  could  not  have  been  more 
effectually  sacrificed  if  they  had  perished,  with  the  plunder 
of  the  Parthenon,  among  the  rocks  of  Cythera3.  The  Fine 
Arts,  who  always  deprecate  their  coming  as  they  would 
another  invasion  of  Alaric,  will  remember  with  regret  the 
days  they  passed  in  the  Archipelago :  and  when  truth  pre- 
vails over  the  interests  of  political  intrigue  and  the  preju- 
dices of  party  zeal,  it  will  be  seen  that  an  author  has  not 
erred  who  thus  described  them4:  RVSSI  INTER  christianos 
barbaphtatoi. 

The  male  population  of  Z'ia  amounts  to  three  thousand 

persons. 


439 


CHAP.  XI. 


(2)  Travels  in  Greece  and  Trnkey,  p.  454.    Lond.  1801. 

(3)  The  memorable  fate  which  attended  the  spoils  of  the  finest  temple  Greece 
ever  saw,  in  Cerigo  Bay,  A.D.  18*02. 

(4)  Vid.  Johannis  Lomeieri  Li  b.  de  Bibliothecis,  cap.  xi.  p.  358.      Ultraject.   1680. 


440 


CHAP  XI. 


Ruins  of 

Ioulis. 


RUINS    OF    IOULIS. 

persons .     Each  house  pays  a  tax  of  ten,   twelve,   or  fifteen 
piastnes,  annually.    We  called  upon  the  English  Consul,  who 
promised  to  send  mules  for  us  to  the  marine,  if  we  would  come 
the  next  day  and  dine  with  him ;  to  which  we  consented.     He 
informed  us  of  a  circumstance  before  alluded  to,  but  of  which 
we  had  never  till  then  heard;  namely,  that  the  famous  Oxford 
Marble,  generally  believed  to  have  been  found  in  Paros,  was 
in  reality  discovered  among  the  Ruins  of  Ioulis,  in  the  Isle  of 
Zia,  at  four  hours  distance  from  the  town ;  and  he  appealed 
to  some   of  the  inhabitants,    well  acquainted  with  the  cir- 
cumstance, for  the  truth  of  the  fact.     Those  ruins  are  little 
known:  Tournefort  has  briefly  noticed  them;  but  it  remains 
for  some  future  traveller  to  make  us  better  acquainted  with 
the  remains  of  a  city  not  only  renowned  as  the  birth-place 
of  many  celebrated  men1,  of  Simonides*,  of  Bacchylides,   of 
Erasistratus3,  and  of  Ariston\  but  particularly  entitled  to 

a  careful 


(1)  'Ek  he  rijt;  Toi/\<coc  o,  tc  2t/u«v«h/c  %v  6  fieXoTroidt,  Kai  j3aK^vXldtis  dBsXtjttSovc 
ckeivov.  Kal  fierd  ravra  ^paffiarparoq  6  tarpon,  kcli  tuv  £K  tov  TreptTrtiTov  tpiXotrvipui' 
'Apioruv,  orov  fiopvadsvirov  fliuvoc  fyXuTw.    Strabon.  Geog.  lib.  x.  p.7l0.  Oxon  1807 . 

(2)  The  antient  name  of  Zia,  KEOl,  called  KIA  by  Ptolemy,  was  sometimes 
abbreviated,  and  written  K02;  and,  owing  to  this  circumstance,  the  country  of  the 
Poet  Simonides  has  sometimes  been  confounded  with  that  of  Hippocrates.  Stephanus 
Byzantinus  uses  the  word  K02  to  signify  KE02,  in  speaking  of  the  city  Ioulis.  'lovXk 
jro'Xtc  iv  K.y.  (Vid.  Steph.  Byzant.  Geog.  L.  Bat.  1094.)  Among  the  Romans,  it  was 
also  usual  to  abbreviate  Ceos  by  writing  Cos.  Pliny  says  the  island  had  been  called 
Ceos,  and  in  his  time  Cea.  ' 

(3)  The  famous  physician  who  discovered,  by  the  motion  of  the  pulse,  the  love 
which  Antiochus  had  conceived  for  his  mother-in-law,  Stratonice.  He  was  the 
grandson  of  Aristotle. 

(4)  There  were  two  philosophers  of  this  name :  the  first  mentioned  by  Strabo  as 
a  native  of  Ceos,  was  a  Peripatetic ;  the  second  was  a  Stoic,  and  a  native  of  Chios  : 
they  have  been  confounded  together,  and  it  has  been  proposed  to  read  'hpioruv  Kfiov 
for  XToc. 


ISLAND    OF    ZIA. 


441 


a  careful  examination,  from  the  circumstance  of  the  discovery  chap.  xi. 
there  made  of  this  important  chronicle,  so  long  believed  to 
owe  its  origin  to  Paros.  A  place  which  has  been  hitherto 
little  regarded,  as  lying  remote  from  common  observation, 
where  the  soil  has  never  been  turned,  nor  hardly  a  stone 
removed  from  the  situation  in  which  it  was  left  when  the 
city  was  abandoned  by  its  inhabitants,  may  well  repay  the 
labour  and  the  expense  necessary  for  this  purpose.  The 
season  was  far  advanced  at  the  time  of  our  visit,  and  our 
eagerness  to  get  to  Athens  so  paramount  above  every  other 
consideration,  that  we  did  not  choose  to  delay  our  voyage 
thither,  by  making  a  visit  to  these  ruins ;  which  we  have 
ever  since  regretted.  Some  notion  may  be  formed  of  their 
magnitude,  and  the  degree  of  consideration  in  which  they 
were  held  by  Tournefort,  from  the  manner  in  which  he 
introduces  his  account  of  them,  after  describing  the  remains 
of  Carthcea* :  and  with  regard  to  the  valuable  chronicle 
which  the  present  inhabitants  of  Z'ia  maintain  to  have  been 
found  at  Ionlis,  there  is  something  like  an  internal  evidence 
of  the  fact  in  the  remarkable  records  preserved  upon  the 
marble,  not  only  with  regard  to  Simonides  the  poet,  who  was 
a  native  of  the  city,  but  also  of  his  descendant  Simonides  son 
of  Lcoprepis,  who  explained  at  Athens  the  principles  of  a 
Mvqpovixov,  or  scheme  for  artificial  memory,  of  which  he 
was  the  inventor.     The  antient  road  from  loulis  to  Carthcea, 

the 


(5)  "  Pour  voir  ouelque  chose  de  plus  superbe,  il  faut  prendre  la  route  du 
sud  sud-est,"  &c.     Voy.  du  Lev.  torn.  II.  p.  15. 

VOL.  III.  3  L 


■r  —  r^-:*- 


442 


CHAP.  XI. 


RUINS    OF    IOULIS. 

the  finest  thing  of  the  kind,  says  Tournefort1,  which  perhaps 
can  be  found  in  all  Greece,  yet  exists.  He  traced  it  for 
three  miles  in  extent,  flanking  the  sides  of  the  hills,  and 
sustained  by  a  strong  wall,  of  which  the  coping  consisted  of 
immense  blocks  of  a  greyish  stone,  having  the  property  of 
splitting  like  the  slate  used  in  the  Grecian  Isles  for  covering 
houses  and  chapels.  The  remains  of  Ioulis  are  now  called 
nOAI2  by  the  inhabitants  of  Zia.  They  cover  the  top  of  a 
promontory,  to  the  south-south-east  of  the  present  town ;  the 
base  of  which  is  washed  by  the  sea,  although  it  was  a 
league  distant  from  it  in  the  time  of  Strabo.  The  ruins  of 
the  Acropolis  are  upon  the  point  of  the  Cape ;  and  somewhat 
farther  from  the  shore  the  temple  is  conspicuous,  in  the 
magnificence  of  its  remains :  those  of  the  city  extend  from 
the  hill  quite  into  a  valley  which  is  watered  by  the  streams 
of  a  fountain  whence  Ioulis  received  its  name.  "  Never," 
observes  the  author  now  cited2,  "  have  I  seen  such  masses 
of  marble  employed  in  architecture,  as  those  used  for  con- 
structing the  walls  of  this  city  :  some  of  the  blocks  are  more 
than  twelve  feet  in  length."  The  British  Consul  told  us,  that 
the  head  of  the  fine  Torso  represented  in  Tournefort's  travels 
was  carried  away  by  an  Englishman.  Strabo  relates,  that 
there   were    once   four   cities    upon    this    island,  Poeeessa, 

Cartkcea, 


(1)  Voy.  du  Lev.  lorn.  II.  p.  16.    Lyon,\J\J. 

(2)  Ibid.     Tournefort  found  the  remains  of  an  inscription  upon  a  broken  marble  in 
a  Greek,  chapel  among  the  ruins,  containing  the  word  IOTAIAA. 


CH\P  XI. 


RUINS    OF    IOULIS.  443 

Ccrthcea,  Caressw,  and  Ioulis ;  but  that  in  his  time  the 
inhabitants  of  Poeeessa  had  settled  in  Carthcea,  and  those  of 
Caressus  in  Ioulis.  He  has  preserved  from  Menander  an  antient 
and  memorable  law  of  the  inhabitants  of  this  island3:    "  Let 

HIM  WHO  CANNOT  LEAD  AN  HONOURABLE,  NOT  LEAD  A  DISHO- 
NOURABLE life."  Ptolemy  mentions  three  cities,  instead  of 
four,  Caressus,  Ioulis,  and  Carthcea*.  From  the  ruins  of  the  last 
of  these  has  originated  the  present  town  of  Zia,  the  only  one 
in  the  whole  island  :  those  ruins  may  be  traced  in  the  valley, 
the  whole  way  from  the  harbour  to  the  citadel5.  The  name 
of  this  city — written  KAP0AIA  by  Strabo  and  by  Ptolemy, 
and  consequently  Carthaea  by  Latin  writers — appears  upon 
its  medals  KAP0A,  which  is  probably  an  abbreviation.  We  Medals, 
were  fortunate  in  procuring  several:  but  they  were  all  of 
bronze ;  nor  have  we  ever  seen  or  heard  of  a  silver  medal 
either  of  Ioulis  or  of  Carthcea.  Those  of  the  latter  city 
exhibited  in  front  a  laurelled  bust;  and  for  reverse,  the  fore 
quarters  either  of  a  fawn  or  of  a  dog,  and  in  some  instances 
with  a  bee  below,  and  a  semicircle  of  diverging  rays  above 
the  head  of  the  animal.    Their  legends  were  either  K,  simply, 

or 


(3)  'O  fxrj  cvvdfisvos  £ijv  koXw,  ov  #/  kukuc.  Thus  rendered  by  Xy  lander,  "  Qui 
non  potest  vivere  bene,  non  male  moritur :"  perhaps  alluding  to  an  antient  custom  in 
Zia,  of  putting  to  death  aged  and  infirm  persons.  The  Editor  of  the  Oxford  Strabo 
has  disputed  this  interpretation,  and  says  the  sense  should  be,  "  Qui  non  bene  vitam 
agere  potest,  non  male  vitam  agat."  Vid.  Annot.  in  Strabon.  Geog.  lib.  x.  p.  710. 
Ozon.  1807.  Not.  12. 

(4)  Km  vi)(T0t;  Iv  f/  voken:  rpfn;,  Kctprjarffos,  'IovXtc,  KapBaia.  Ptolem.  Geog.  lib.  iii. 
cap.  15.    Amst.  1618. 

(5)  Tournefort  speaks  of  an  inscription  of  forty-one  lines  in  the  Chapel  of  St.  Peter, 
but  it  was  much  effaced,  and  almost  illegible. 


w*#rjm*. 


Hospitality  of 
the  Modern 
Greeks. 


ISLAND    OF    ZIA. 

or  KAP0HA;  but  in  no  instance  KAP0AIA.  The  bee 
evidently  refers  to  Ioalis,  of  which  city  this  was  the  symbol ; 
as  appears  by  some  bronze  medals  in  the  French  Collection, 
on  which  the  bee  appears,  with  the  legend  IOYAI.  Possibly, 
therefore,  loulis  was  leagued  with  Carthcea,  or  had  become 
tributary  to  it,  when  some  of  the  medals  were  struck  which 
we  brought  from  the  island. 

An  amusing  adventure  befel  us  the  next  day,  in  our  search 
for  medals.  We  have  before  had  occasion  to  allude  to 
the  hospitality  of  the  Greeks,  to  their  love  of  festivity,  and 
to  the  sort  of  sensation  excited  by  the  arrival  of  strangers 
among  them;  but  perhaps  the  following  anecdote  may 
exhibit  these  their  national  characteristics  in  a  more  striking 
manner  than  has  been  hitherto  done.  The  Consul  having 
sent  his  mules  to  the  harbour,  we  went  to  visit  him,  as  we 
had  promised  to  do,  and  despatched  messengers  about  the 
town  in  search  of  medals  and  gems.  Towards  the  evening, 
as  we  were  preparing  to  take  leave  of  our  host,  a  little  girl 
arrived ;  who  said,  if  we  would  follow  her,  she  would  conduct 
us  to  a  house  where  several  antiquities  would  be  offered  to 
us  for  sale.  When  we  got  into  the  street,  we  were  surprised 
to  meet  a  young  lady  very  splendidly  dressed,  who  offered 
to  us  some  medals,  and  said,  if  we  would  accompany  her, 
she  would  take  us  to  a  house  where  the  owner  kept  a 
collection  of  such  rarities.  Presently  we  met  a  second 
female,  nearly  of  the  same  age,  and  similarly  habited  ;  who 
addressed  the  first,  laughing,  and  then  literally  seized  one  of  us 
by  the  arm,  bidding  her  companion  secure  the  other:  and  in 
this  manner  we  were  hurried  into  a  crowded  assembly,  where 

many 


ISLAND    OF    ZIA. 


445 


many  of  the  inhabitants  had  been  collected  for  a  regular  ball. 
The  dancing  instantly  began ;  and  being  welcomed  with  loud 
cheers  into  the  midst  of  the  party,  there  was  no  alternative  but 
to  give  up  all  thoughts,  for  the  rest  of  the  evening,  of  returning 
to  our  caique,  and  contribute  to  the  hilarity  of  those  by 
whom  we  had  been  thus  hospitably  inveigled.  Our  con- 
ductors proved  to  be  the  two  daughters  of  the  'lhovgolzsvos, 
who  thus  honourably  entertained,  after  the  manner  of  his 
forefathers,  two  private  strangers  whom  he  was  never  likely 
to  see  again,  and  from  whom  he  could  reap  no  possible 
advantage.  Every  species  of  Greek  dance  was  exhibited 
for  the  amusement  of  his  guests ;  from  the  bounding  Movo- 
X,ogog  or  hornpipe,  and  the  Ai%ogo$  or  rigadoon1,  to  the  more 
stately  measures  of  the  orbicular  bratvl*,  and  the  "  threadle- 
my~needle"  of  the  modern  Roitieka3.  The  whole  night 
passed  in  one  interrupted  scene  of  the  most  joyous  vivacity. 
To  us  it  seemed  to  exhibit  a  moving  picture  of  other  times ; 
for  in  the  dances  we  actually  beheld  the  choirs  of  the  antient 
Greeks,  as  originally  they  were  led  around  the  altars  of 
Delos,  or  amidst  the  rocks  of  Delphi,  or  by  the  waters  of 
Helicon,  or  along  the  banks  of  the  Eurotas4.  When  morning 
dawned,  we  retired:  but  we  left  them  still  dancing;  and  we 
heard  their  reiterated  songs  as  we  descended  through  the 

valley  towards  the  shore. 

The 


CHAP.  XI. 


Antient 
Dances. 


(1)  See  De  Guy's  Letters  on  Greece,  vol.  I.  p.  149.     Lond.  1781. 

(2)  See  p.  431  of  this  volume. 

(3)  See  p.  425,  Note  (2),  of  this  volume. 

(4J                   "  Qualis  in  Eurotae  ripis,  aut  per  juga  Cynthi 
Exercet  Diana  choros." 


Virg,  JEneid.  lib.  i.     Sedan.  1625. 


446 


CHAP.  XI. 


Produce  of 
Zia. 


ISLAND   OF   ZIA. 

The  fertility  of  Zia  has  been  mentioned  by  antient  and 
by  modern  authors,  and  it  was  particularly  noticed  by  us 
upon  the  spot1.  It  appeared  to  be  the  best  cultivated  of 
any  of  the  Grecian  Isles.  In  our  way  to  and  from  the 
town,  we  found  among  the  rocks  some  very  rare  plants  ; 
particularly  the  Ferhascum  Grcecum  of  Tournefort,  which 
here  flourishes  in  great  perfection.  The  cotton-plants  were 
in  flower;  the  island  produces  also  abundance  of  wine,  barley, 
silk,  figs,  and  cattle.  The  old  road  from  this  harbour  to  the 
city  of  Garthcea  was  cut  out  of  the  solid  rock,  and  the  traces 
of  it  are  still  visible.  There  was  a  tradition  in  the  time  of 
Pliny,  that  Zia,  or,  as  he  writes  it,  Cea\  had  been  separated 
from  Eubcea  by  the  sea,  and  that  a  considerable  part  of  it 
towards  the  north  had  been  swallowed  by  the  waves3.  This 
event  might  possibly  occur  at  the  bursting  of  the  Thracian 
Bosphorus ;  and  to  this  perhaps  the  antient  Greek  name  of 
the  island,  Hydrussa\  may  be  attributed,  rather  than  to  the 
abundance  or  excellence  of  its  water,  as  the  same  name 
was  common  to  other  isles ;  for  example,  to  Tenos,  which 
may,  from  its  relative  situation  to  Eubosa,  have  had  a 
similar  origin.     The  mountains  of  Zia  are  all  of  limestone  : 

there 


(i) 


-*'  Et  cultor  nemorum,  qui  pinguia  Cece 


Ter  centum  nivei  tondent  dumeta  juvenci." 

Virg.  Georgic.  lib.'x.  vet:  14.     Sedan.  1625. 

(2)  "  Quam  nostri   quidam  dixere  Ceam."     Plin.  Hist.  Nat.  til.  iv.   c.  12.  torn.  I 
p.  111.    L.  Bat.  1635. 

(3)  "  Avulsa  Euboeae,  quingentis  longa  stadiis,  fuit  quondam;  mox  quatuor  fere 
partibus,  quae  ad  Boeotiam  vergebant,  eodem  mari  devoratis."     Ibid. 

(4)  Vid.  Plin.  Hist.  Nat.  ubi  supra. 


DEPARTURE   FROM    ZIA.  447 

there  are  no  vestiges  of  any  volcanic  operation.    The  mineral    t  ^HAR  XL , 

mentioned  by  Tournefort*,  under  the  appellation  of  "  Craie       Minerals. 

de  Briangon,"  a  variety  of  talc,  is  found  in  great  abundance 

near  the  Monastery  of  St.  Marine,  or  Marinas,  distant  about 

three  hours  journey  from  the  town  of  Z'ia  :  the  inhabitants 

make  no  use  of  it.     Lead  ore  is  also  found  near  the  same 

place.     From  hence  there  are  two  ways  of  going  to  Athens  : 

the  first  is  by  landing  at  a  port  near  Sunium,  which  is  called 

Dascallio ;  two  hours  from  which  place  is  a  village  called, 

from  the  abundance  of  its  Karob-trees,  Keratia,  whence  the 

distance  is  only  eight  or  ten  hours,  by  land  the  whole  way, 

to  Athens  :  the   other  way  is  by  sea,  up  the  Gulph  of  Engia 

to  the  Piraeus.     Our  Consul  had  recommended  the  former 

way,  as  the  easiest,  the  safest,  and  the  best;  but  we  adopted 

the  latter,  that  we  might  have  the  satisfaction  of  making 

our  first  approach  to  Athens  from  one  of  its  antient  harbours, 

and  of  seeing  as  much  as  possible  of  the  magnificent  scenery 

which  the  gulph  exhibits. 

We  hired  a  pilot  from  Z'ia,  for  the  Saronic  Gulph  ;  and     Departure 

r  L  for  Athens. 

left  the   harbour,  with  a  fair  wind,   October  the  twenty- 
seventh,  soon  after  sun-rise. 

We  passed  Macronisi,  once  called  Helena,  because 
Helen  is  said  to  have  landed  here  after  her  expulsion  from 
Troy6;  and  we  had  such  a  glorious  prospect  of  this  island, 
and  of  the  temple  of  Minerva  Sunias  standing  upon  the 
Cape,   together  with  other  more   distant  objects,  that  we 

could 


(5)  Voy.  du  Lev.  torn.  II.  p.  21.    Lyon,\J\J. 

(6)  See  Pausanias,  lib.i.  c.35. 


VOYAGE  TO   ATHENS. 

could  recollect  nothing  like  it:  such  a  contrast  of  colours., 
such  an  association  of  the  wonders  of  Nature  and  of  Art;  such 
perfection  of  grand  and  beautiful  perspective,  as  no  expres- 
sion of  perceptible  properties  can  convey  to  the  minds  of 
those  who  have  not  beheld  the  objects  themselves.  Being 
well  aware  of  the  transitory  nature  of  impressions  made 
upon  the  memory  by  sights  of  this  kind,  the  author  wrote 
a  description  of  this  scene  while  it  was  actually  before  hiss 
eyes  :  but  how  poor  is  the  effect  produced  by  detailing  the 
parts  of  a  view  in  a  narrative,  which  ought  to  strike  as  a 
whole  upon  the  sense !  He  may  tell  indeed  of  the  dark 
blue  sea  streaked  with  hues  of  deepest  purple — of  embrowning 
shadows — of  lights  effulgent  as  the  sun — of  marble  pillars 
beaming  a  radiant  brightness  upon  lofty  precipices  whose 
sides  are  diversified  by  refreshing  verdure  and  by  hoary 
mosses,  and  by  gloomy  and  naked  rocks ;  or  by  brighter 
surfaces  reflecting  the  most  vivid  and  varied  tints,  orange, 
red,  and  grey:  to  these  he  may  add  an  account  of  distant 
summits,  more  intensely  azured  than  the  clear  and  cloudless 
sky — of  islands  dimly  seen  through  silvery  mists  upon  the 
wide  expanse  of  water  shining,  towards  the  horizon,  as  it 
were  "a  sea  of  glass:" — and  when  he  has  exhausted  his 
vocabulary,  of  every  colour  and  shape  exhibited  by  the 
face  of  Nature  or  by  the  works  of  Art,  although  he  have 
not  deviated  from  the  truth  in  any  part  of  his  description, 
how  little  and  how  ineffectual  has  been  the  result  of  his 
undertaking  ! 

As  we   passed  the   southern   point  of   Macronisi,    and 
drew    nearer   to    the    promontory,    the    temple    upon    the 

Cape 


VOYAGE  TO  ATHENS. 


449 


(I)  There  is  a  very  accurate  representaiion  of  Cape  Sunium  and  the  Temple, 
engraved  from  a  drawing  by  Mr.  Gell,  in  the  edition  of  Falconer's  Shipwreck  pub- 
lished by  the  Rev.  James  Stanier  Clarke,  LL.B.  brother  of  the  author  of  these  Travels. 


CHAP.  XI. 


Gape  appeared  to  the  greatest  advantage  in  which  it  is 
possible  now  to  view  it1;  for  it  seemed  to  be  entire,  its 
deficiencies  being  concealed  by  the  parts  which  yet  remain 
uninjured.  When  we  had  doubled  the  southern  point  of 
the  Cape,  we  anchored  in  the  antient  port  of  Sunium,  an  sunium 
insignificant  bay,  lying  within  the  gulph,  sheltered  by  the 
promontory.  Here  we  landed.  The  owners  of  a  small  boat 
which  we  observed  coasting,  believing  us  to  be  pirates,  ran  their 
vessel  aground,  and  abandoned  her  as  soon  as  they  perceived 
our  caique  coming  round  the  Cape,  making  their  escape 
up  the  rocks  near  to  the  shore.  We  endeavoured,  by 
signs,  to  convince  them  of  our  peaceable  intentions;  but  they 
betook  themselves  to  some  woods,  and  appeared  no  more 
while  we  remained  in  the  bay.  Proceeding  towards  the 
temple,  we  found  the  rocks  covered  with  evergreens  and 
bushy  shrubs,  among  which  we  noticed  the  Pistacia  Leu- 
tiscus,  the  myrtle,  the  Velani  oak,  and  some  dwarf  cedars. 
We  also  found  some  rolled  pieces  of  green  trap  or  basalt, 
containing  a  dendritic  crystallization ;  but  had  not  leisure  for 
a  due  examination  of  the  strata  on  which  this  temple  stands; 
our  sailors,  who  had  themselves  been  mistaken  for  pirates, 
being  very  impatient  to  get  under  weigh,  through  fear  that 
some  of  the  real  robbers  would  arrive,  who  make  the  bay  of 
Sunium  their  lurking-place,  where  they  lie-in-wait  for  vessels 
going  in  or  out  of  the  gulph.     It  was  with  difficulty  we 

could 


VOL.   III. 


3  M 


<V->^>-<t~*r-:-fc-,^-,> 


HM||MMMn  ^^H 


450 


CFHP.  XI. 


Temple  of 

Hfinerva 

Sunias. 


Anecdote  of  a 
Naval  Officer. 


PORT   OF   SUN11TM. 

could  pacify  the  masterof  the  caique  during  the  time  we  spent 
in  the  examination  of  the  temple.  This  beautiful  building  was 
once  adorned  with  the  most  exquisite  sculpture:  its  materials 
were  of  the  whitest  marble  ;   it  was  of  the  Doric  order  ;  and 
the  remains  of  it  are  sufficient  to  prove  that,  when  it  was 
entire,  it  exhibited  one  of  the  most  highly-finished  specimens 
of  Attic  architecture  in  all  Greece.     Chandler1  believed  it  to 
have  been  "  erected  in  the  same  happy  period  with  the  great 
Temple  of  Minerva,  called  the  Parthenon,  in  the  Acropolis 
at  Athens,   or  in   the   time  of  Pericles,  it  having  like   pro- 
portions, though  far  inferior  in   magnitude."     Besides  the 
temple,  there  w7as  also  a  Propyleum  of  the  Doric  order  at 
Sunium.     We  found  fifteen  columns    yet   standing.      The 
surfaces  in  some  of  those  facing  the  sea  were  much  decom- 
posed.    Several  persons    had  written  their  names  upon  the 
marble  ;   and    even   those   which    had   been  inscribed  with 
pencils  remained,  with  their  dates,  as  fresh  as  when  they  were 
first  written.  We  read  the  names  of  the  lamented  Tweddell, 
and  of  the  Hon.  Captain  William  Paget.    The  last  of  these, 
a  gallant  naval  officer,  now  buried  at  Gibraltar,  will  not  want 
a  memorial  in  Greece.     His  name  will  be  long  remembered, 
for  the  coolness,   the  intrepidity,   and  the  humanity  which 
he  displayed  when  commander  of  the  Romney,  a  fifty-gun 
ship,   during  his  memorable  action   with  a  French  frigate, 
La  Sibylle,  in  the  harbour  of  Myconi.     The  French  officer 
was  an  old  acquaintance,  and  one  with  whom  he  had  lived  in 

habits 

(l)  Travels  in  Greece,  p.  8.     Oxf.  1$7<5. 


VOYAGE    TO   ATHENS. 

habits  of  friendship.    Captain  Paget  sent  a  boat  to  him,  saying 

he  was  sorry  they  had  met  under  such  circumstances,  but  that 

he  must  desire  him  to  surrender.    He  received  for  answer,  that 

the  Captain  of  La  Sibylie  well  knew  Captain  Paget's  force2, 

and  that  he  would  defend  himself  to  the  last  extremity.    The 

Frenchman  fired  first,   aided  by  four  armed  vessels,  which 

were  stationed  so  as  to  rake  the  Romney.     Captain  Paget 

having  observed  that,  from   the  situation  of  his  ship,  some 

mischief  would  ensue  to  the  inhabitants  of  Myconi,  patiently 

sustained  this  powerful  attack  without  returning  a  single  shot, 

until,  by  getting  a  spring  upon  his  cable,  he  had  brought  the 

Romney  into  a  situation  where  the  cannon  might  play  without 

doing  any  inj  ury  to  the  town ;  then  he  gave  his  broadside,  with 

three  cheers  from  his  crew.     The  Frenchman  returned  the 

salute ;   and  a  warm   contest  ensued,  in  which  the  Romney 

was  ultimately  victorious.    The  history  of  this  action  is  often 

related  in  the  Archipelago,  although  it  has  not  been  recorded 

in  England  :   and  as  the  name  of  the  hero  appears  inscribed 

with  his  own  hands  upon  the  conspicuous  pillars  of  Sunium, 

the  2THAAI  AIA4ANEI2,  visible  from  afar,  may  stand  as  lasting 

a  monument  of  his  fame,  as  the   glorious  sepulchre  which 

chance  did  assign  to  the  memory  of  Tweddell,   when  it 

caused  him  to  be  buried  in  the  Temple  of  Theseus. 

Chandler  says  that  the  Temple  of  Minerva  Sunias  was 
within  the  wall  of  the  old  town3.     We  saw   no  remains  of 

this 


451 


CHAP.  XI. 


(2)  The  Romney  was  short  of  her  complement  by  seventy-live  men. 

(3)  Trav.  in  Greece,  p./.    Oxf.  17/6.      See  also  Wheler's  Journey  into  Greece, 
Book  vi.  p.  448.    Land.  1682. 


Patrocle'ia. 


ISLANb  OF  PATROCLEIA. 

this  town ;  but  we  were  induced  to  believe,  from  the 
appearance  of  some  ruins  upon  an  opposite  hill,  on  the 
northern  side  of  the  port,  that  these  were  the  remains  of 
Siinium.  The  impatience  of  our  mariners  prevented  our 
visiting  those  ruins,  although  they  have  been  hitherto  unde- 
scribed.  They  seemed  to  be  too  near  to  have  belonged  to 
Laurium.  Among  the  remains  of  the  temple  we  found  the 
point  of  an  antient  lance,  and  many  fragments  of  terra-cotta 
vessels,  those  indestructible  and  infallible  testimonies  of 
places  resorted  to  by  the  antient  Greeks.  As  soon  as  we  had 
descended  to  the  caique,  our  Captain  weighed  anchor,  and  set 
sail  for  the  Piraeus,  now  called  Porto  Lione,  distant  forty- 
two  miles  from  the  Cape  ;  but  we  had  no  sooner  entered 
the  channel,  between  the  Island  Patrocleia  and  the  coast  of 
Attica,  than  we  were  becalmed.  This  island  is  now  called  by 
at  least  half  a  dozen  different  modern  names;  it  is  therefore 
best  to  adhere  as  much  as  possible  to  original  appellations, 
for  these  will  be  found  frequently  preserved  by  the  inhabi- 
tants of  the  country.  All  the  barbarous  nick-names  given 
to  places  and  islands  in  Greece,  and  introduced  into  modern 
geography,  have  been  principally  owing  to  the  Italians. 
Thus  Athens  received  the  strange  appellation  of  Settines, 
although  it  never  lost  its  old  name  among  its  resident  citi- 
zens, nor  ever  fell  into  the  state  of  desolation  and  desertion 
which  has  been  falsely  ascribed  to  it.  The  little  Island  of 
Patrocle'ia  still   preserved  its  name  in  Wheler's  time1;   but 

it 


(])  Wheler  writes  it  Patroclea;  but  Spon,  Patrocleia.  See  Wheler's  Journ. 
into  Greece,  Book  vi.  p.  44().  Lond.  1682.  Spon,  Voyage  de  Grece,  torn.  II.  p.  155. 
'it  La  Haye,  1724. 


^fHMEBM&Mft* 


VOYAGE    TO    ATHENS. 

it  has  been  called  Gaitharonesi  (Asses  Isle),  the  Island  of 
Ebony,  Guidronisa,  Garderonis,  &c. ;  and  owing  to  all  these 
names,  it  has  been  sometimes  multiplied,  and  laid  down  in 
charts  as  a  cluster  of  small  isles,  rather  than  as  one  island. 
Some  geographers  have  believed  this  island  to  be  the  Bclbina 
of  Strabo2,  from  the  manner  in  wiiich  he  has  connected  the 
BzXQiva  vr,<rog  with  the  rampart  constructed  by  Pat  rod  us3 ; 
but  in  a  former  part  of  his  work  he  is  more  explicit  as  to 
the  situation  of  Belbina4,  describing  its  situation  as  farther 
from  the  coast,  and  which  some  have  believed  to  be  the 
island  now  called  St.  George  d Arbor i,  as  it  is  named  in 
a  chart  by  D'Anville5. 

The  pilot  whom  we  had  brought  from  Z'ia  informed  us, 
that  ebony  still  grows  upon  Patrocle'ia ;  and  we  availed  our- 
selves of  the  delay  caused  by  our  being  becalmed,  to  land  in 
search  of  it.  We  collected  many  rare  plants  upon  this 
otherwise  barren  spot ;  but  could  not  find  a  single  specimen 
of  the  Ebcnus,  either  Cretica  or  pinnata.     Our  sailors  also 

landed ; 


453 


CHAP.  XI. 


(2)  See  De  L'Isle's  "  Grcecice  Antu/uce  Tabula  Nova"  as  published  at  Paris  1"4>5. 

(3)  WpoKt irai  li  Kal  70V7mv  7uv  TOiruv  heXpiva  v>;ffoc,  ov  ttoXv  drruQtv,  kou  6 
U((7io6k\ov  \df>a£.     Strabon.  Geog.  lib.  ix.  p.  5/8.     Oxon.  1807. 

(4)  Nnvitia  cl  irtpiKtircu  TtoWd  fitv  7rpo<;  ~r\  ninipa'  BA/kj'O  £r  irpds  76  rtXayos 
dvartivovaa.     [bid.  lib.  viii.  p.  544.     Oxon.  1807- 

(5)  See  D'Anville's  Chart  of  the  Archipelago,  published  at  Paris  in  1756.  The 
Editor  of  the  Oxford  Edition  of  Strabo  believed  Lavousa  to  be  the  modern  name  of 
Bclbina.  "  Bclbina  nunc  Lavousa  dicitur."  {Fid.  Not.  in  Strabon.  Geog.  p.  544.  Oxon. 
ISO/.)  This  is  the  island  mentioned  by  Spon,  to  whose  work  the  reader  may  be 
referred  for  the  best,  indeed  the  only  accurate,  account  of  the  islands  in  the  Saronic 
Gulph.  "  Entre  /Egina  et  Coulouri,  il  y  a  une  petite  isle  appellee  Laou.-.a."  Voyage  de 
Greco,  fait  aux  Annies  1675  et  1676,  par  Jacob  Spon,  torn.  II.  p.  156.   a  la  Haye,  1724. 


CHAP.  XI. 


Islands  in  the 
SaronicGulph. 


454  ISLAND    OF    CALAUREA. 

landed  ;  and  they  caught  abundance  of  echini,  upon  which 
they  fed  heartily,  both  on  this  and  the  following  day.  The 
name  of  this  prickly  shell-fish,  if  written  abbreviated  as  they 
pronounced  it,  would  be  ccy/,v,  instead  of  e%7vos.  The  thermo- 
meter, this  day  at  noon,  was  80°  of  Fahrenheit.  We  were 
unable  to  leave  our  station  off  Patrocle'ia  before  the  next 
day ;  and  being  afraid  to  venture  upon  the  coast  of  Attica, 
we  contiued  upon  the  island,  collecting  plants  until  the 
evening,  and  admiring  the  glorious  prospect  exhibited  on 
all  sides.  In  this  gulph,  between  the  two  promontories  of 
Sunium  and  Scyllceum,  there  are  not  less  than  twenty  islands ' ; 
but  only  three  of  them  are  inhabited,  Calaurea,  tEgina,  and 
Salamis.  At  present  we  shall  only  speak  of  the  first  of  these, 
Caiaurea.  Calaurea,  because  the  others  will  occur  in  the  order  of  our 
route.  Its  situation  with  regard  to  the  Scyllcean  Promontory, 
is  the  same  as  Patrocleia  with  respect  to  the  Sunian. 
Calaurea,  rarely  visited,  and  almost  unknowrn,  is  the  island  to 
which  Demosthenes  fled,  when  he  sought  to  avoid  the  fury  of 
Antipater ;  and  where  he  swallowed  poison,  in  the  Temple 
of  Neptune:  and  although  it  has  been  disputed  whether  the 
island,  now  sometimes  called  Poros  from  a  small  adjoining 
peninsula,  be  the  same  with  the  antient  Calaurea,  an  inscription 
discovered  there  by  Chandler9  has  put  an  end  to  all  doubt  upon 
the  subject.  He  found,  among  the  ruins  of  the  city  and  of 
the  temple,  an  inscription,  upon  a  pedestal,  containing  an 

acknow- 


(1)  See  Spon,  torn.  II.  p.  155.    a  La  Haye,  1724. 

(2)  Chandler's  Travels  in  Greece,  p.  212.     Oxf.  1776> 


VOYAGE   TO   ATHENS. 


455 


CHAP.  XI. 


acknowledgment  of  the  services  of  King  Eumenes  "  to 
the  God,  ajsd  to  the  Calaureans,  and  to  the  other 
Greeks."  The  monument  of  Demosthenes  remained  within 
the  precincts  of  the  temple  in  the  second  century3.  This 
island  is  eighteen  miles  in  circumference  :  it  is  now  inhabited 
bv  those  descendants  of  the  antient  Macedonians  who  are  Albanians. 
called  Amaouts,  or  Albanians ;  a  people  of  whom  we  shall 
have  frequent  occasion  to  speak  during  our  travels  in 
Greece,  and  who  have  been  much  vilified,  in  being 
often  represented,  in  books  of  travels,  as  a  lawless  set  of 
banditti,  and  as  being,  with  regard  to  terra  fir  ma,  what  the 
Mainotcs,  or  Lacedaemonians,  are  upon  the  waves4.  We 
are  not  so  well  acquainted  with  the  latter ;  but  have  reason 
to  believe  that  they  also  have  been  greatly  calumniated  in 
the  accounts  published  of  them  from  the  hear-say  statements 
of  the  Turks  and  Greeks.  As  to  the  Albanians,  it  was 
often  our  good  fortune,  in  our  subsequent  journeys,  to  prefer 
a  night's  lodging  in  their  cottages  to  the  less  cleanly 
accommodation  of  more  stately  dwellings  :  and  this  brief 
allusion  to  them  has  been  now  made,  rather  by  anticipation, 
that  the  Reader,  finding  hereafter  an  account  of  them   very 

different 


(3)  Tou  wepifioXov  Be  Ivtoc,   kcu  to  i\t]/iioaOiyovc  fiv>if.ia  eari.    Pausan.   lib.  ii.  c.  33. 

p.  189.    Lips.  i6gG. 

(4)  "  II  demcuroit  dans  ces  cabanes  de  ces  sortes  de  gens  que  les  Turcs  et  Ies  Grecs 
connoissent  sous  le  nom  d'Amaut^s,  et  nous  autres  sous  celuy  cVAllanois.  lis  sont  en 
partie  originaires  de  la  frontiere  occidentale  de  la  Macedoine,  proche  des  villes  d'Apoli- 
mena  et  de  Sapoza ;  et  en  partie  de  l'Epire,  vers  les  montagnes  de  la  Chymere.  lis 
sont  naturellement  braves,  determinez,  et  inratigables,  grands  voleurs,  et  justement  dans 
la  tone  ferme  de  Grece  ce  que  les  M.ignottes  sont  sur  mer."  Voyage  dAthenes,  tsfc. 
par  le  Sr.  de  la  Guilletiere,  p.  88.    a  Paris,  \QJ5. 


■ 


-  -**>-  I  ■    V/tSSVfir 


Elimb6. 


First  Sight 
of  Athens. 


VOYAGE    TO    ATHENS. 

different  from  the  notions  generally  entertained  of  this  people., 
may  not  be  induced  to  attribute  to  first  impressions  a 
description  of  their  manners  which  has  been  the  result  of 
repeated  experience. 

The  next  morning,  we  hoisted  sail  as  the  sun  was  rising 
in  great  splendor  above  the  mountains ;  but  the  wind  blew 
in  gusts,  and  we  made  little  progress.  At  one  time  it  came 
with  such  sudden  violence  down  the  side  of  a  high  mountain 
upon  the  Attic  coast,  that  it  nearly  upset  the  caique.  These 
transitory  gales  are  common  in  all  gulphs  surrounded  by  high 
land,  and  they  render  the  navigation  precarious  for  small 
vessels.  The  mountain  to  the  east  of  us  was  called,  by  our 
sailors,  Elimbo,  which  is  a  modern  name  for  Olympus;  and  the 
latter,  perhaps,  formerly  denoted  any  very  lofty  eminence,  as 
it  is  the  appellation  which  was  common  to  many  celebrated 
mountains;  to  one  in  Pieria,  the  seat  of  the  Gods;  to  another 
in  Bithynia;  to  a  third  in  Mysia  ;  a  fourth  in  Cyprus;  a  fifth  in 
Crete;  a  sixth  in  Elis;  and  a  seventh  in  Arcadia.  In  the  course 
of  this  day  we  found  ourselves  to  be  accompanied  by  a  few 
small  vessels,  sailing  up  the  gulph,  with  red  sails.  At 
four  o'clock  in  the  afternoon,  being  off  Cape  Pari,  and  upon 
the  look-out  towards  the  n.  n.  e.  we  beheld,  with  great 
transports  of  joy,  the  first  sight  of  Athens  ;  its  lofty 
edifices  catching  the  sun's  rays,  and  rendering  the  buildings 
in  the  Acropolis  visible  to  us  at  the  distance  of  fifteen 
miles.  The  reflected  light  gave  them  a  white  appearance. 
The  Parthenon  appeared,  first,  above  a  long  chain  of  hills  in 
the  front:  presently  we  saw  the  top  of  Mount  Anchesmus, 
to  the  left  of  the  temple ;  the  whole  being  backed  by  a 
lofty    mountainous     ridge,    which     we     supposed     to     be 

Parnes. 


Vrrin'tr 


VOYAGE  TO    ATHENS. 


457 


CHAP.  XI. 


Parses.     All  the  fore-part  of  this  fine  scene  was  occupied 
by  Cape  Vari  and  the  Gulph  \    Vari,  or  Vary,  is  mentioned  by 
Chandler,  but  in  such  an  uncertain  manner,  that  it  is  impos- 
sible,  from  his  description,   to   make  out  its  antient  name2. 
It  may  have  been  so  called  from  the  Island  Phaura,  which 
was   situated   before  one  of  the  Capes  between  Phal.erum 
and  Sunium ;   and   there    is  a  small  island  off  Cape  Vari. 
According  to  Chandler,  Vari  is  only  four  hours'  journey  from 
Athens    by   land,    which    nearly   agrees  with    the  distance 
mentioned   to  us   by  our  pilot.    The  famous   Grotto  of  the 
Nymphs   is   only  three   quarters   of    an    hour    distant   from 
Vari,  inland ;  it  is  situated  in  a  part  of  Mount  Hymettus, 
which  here  stretching  out  into  the  sea,  forms  the  promontory     zoster  Pro- 
once  called  Zoster ;  and  this  may  be  the  same  now  called 
Cape  Vari.     In  this  manner,  then,  we  may  perhaps  settle  the 
geography  of  this  part  of  the  coast ;   the  promontory  being 
Zoster,  and  the  island  Phaura.    Zoster  was  so  called  because 
it  was  said  Latona  had  loosed  her  zone  there,  in  her  way  to 
Delos,    whither   she  was   conducted   by  Minerva.     On  the 

shore  was    an   altar.       A    strange    notion    seems   to   have     Doubtful 

story  of  Mi- 
been  founded  upon  a  passage  in   Pausanias ;    namely,  that     nerva's  statue. 

a  part  of  the  colossal  statue  of  Minerva  in  the  Acropolis 

of  Athens  was  visible  from  the  Sunian  Promontory.     After 

the 


(1)  The  author  made  a  sketch  of  it  at  the  time,  which  has  been  engraved  for  this 
Work  :  it  has  nothing  to  recommend  it  but  the  fidelity  of  its  outline,  to  which  he  paid 
all  possible  attention. 

(2)  Trav.  in  Greece,  pp.  147,  150.    Oxf.  1776. 

VOL.  III.  3  N 


458 


CHAP.  XI. 


VOYAGE   TO    ATHENS. 

the  repeated  proofs  which  have  occurred  of  late  years,  con- 
firming the  truth  of  antient  geographers  and  historians  upon 
many  points  before  doubted,  one  would  not  hastily  conclude 
that  a  thing  positively  asserted  is  untrue,  because  it  has  not 
remained  to  undergo  the  test  of  our  experience.    The  distance 
is  forty-two  miles,  and  we   barely  discerned  the  Parthenoni 
at  fifteen  ;  but  the  representation  of  this  statue,  as  it  appears 
upon  an  antient  medal  of  Athens1,  proves  that  it  was  much 
higher  than  the  Parthenon ;  and  there  is  no  saying  what  the 
effect  might  be,  of  light  reflected  from  a  statue  of  polished  or 
gilded  brass  in  such  an  atmosphere,  even  at  the  extraordinarv 
distance  from  which  the  point  of  the  spear  and  crest  of  the 
helmet  are  said  to  have  been  visible.    This  gulph  has  never 
been  accurately  surveyed  ;  and  the  relative  situation  of  the 
different  parts  of  it  appeared  to  us  to  be  erroneously  marked 
in  our   best  maps.     But  Pausanias  does   not  say  the  statue 
was  visible  from  Sunium:  his  words  are,   "  to  tfiose  sailing 
from  Sunium:"  the  situation,  and  distance,  of  the  spectator 
are  therefore  very  indefinitely  marked2. 

Towards  evening  we  were  again  becalmed,  and  anchored 
near  to  a  Cape  which  is  opposite  to  a  point  of  the  Island 
of  Salam is.  Here  we  sent  the  pilot  on  shore  whom  we  had 
brought  from  Z'ia,  as  he  was  the  only  person  acquainted 
with    the    country,    directing   him    to    go    to   Athens    and 

hire 


(1)  See  "  Voyage  du  Jeune  Anachar sis ."     Tab.  XXVII.  Fig.  1.     Paris,  1790. 

(2)  Trjv  'Afl^d?   i)   tov    SSparoc   ui-^jbirj    Kal    6   \6(j>or    rov    KpdvovQ,    drro   \ovviov 
-rrpoairXtovaiv  lariv  ijcr)  avvowTa.     Pausaniae  Attica,  c.  28.  p.  67 .     Lips.  l6§6. 


VOYAGE    TO   ATHENS. 


459 


hire  horses  to  meet  us    at    the    Piraeeus  on   the  following      chap.xi. 
dav.       Soon   after    midnight    a    breeze    sprung    up ;    and 
ou:    impatience     getting   the   better   of    all    apprehension, 
we   resolved  to  steer   for  the  Piraseus,  without  any    other 
pilot  than  the   stars,    which  shone    with  great  brightness. 
We   knew   that    our    course   was    due  north ;    and    there- 
fore   pointing   out    the    polar   star    to    the    master    of  the 
caique,  we  persuaded  him   to   get   under   weigh,  promising 
to   pilot    his    vessel    into    harbour   as    safely   as    we    had 
done    before    into    the    port    of   Z'ia3.     There   was    barely 
wind  enough  to  keep  the  vessel  steady  to  her  helm  ;    there- 
fore if  she  chanced  to  fall  upon  a  rock  or  a  shoal,  it  would 
be  easy  to  get  her  off  again,  and  the  pilot  had  said  that  the 
course  was  clear.     Accordingly  wre  set  sail,   and  for  once 
ventured  towards  a  lee-shore,  without   seeing  any  thing  of 
the  land.     In  this  manner  passing  the  mouth  of  the  old  haven 
Phalerum,  as  we  drew  near  to  the  Munychian  Isthmus,  we 
distinctly  perceived  the  coast,   like  a  long  dark  wall  before 
us.     Upon  this,  we  stood  somewhat  farther  out  towards  the 
north-west ;    and    doubling   the  point,    lowered    our   sails, 
and  took  to  the  oars,    steering  north-east,   and  afterwards 
due  east ;   by  which  means  we  soon  entered  the  outer  port  of    Arrival  at 
Piraeus ;    but   endeavouring  to  pass  farther  in,  we  drove 
the  vessel  upon  the  ruined  pier,  on   the  Munychian  side. 
Daylight  was  beginning  to  dawn ;   and  a  part  of  this   pier 
rose  above  the  water,  so  that  we  were  enabled  to  land  upon 

it, 


(3)  The  variation  of  the  compass  12°.  55'.  as  observed  in   1751,  makes  the  course 
exactly  north  by  the  magnetic  needle.     See  Stuart's  Athens ;  Map  of  Attica;  vol.  III. 


K**%+  as^vSHs*-*^.  ***>  -y 


460 


CHAP.  XI. 


Approach  to 
Athens. 


APPROACH   TO    ATHENS. 

it,  and  lighten  the  caique,  while  our  sailors  were  employed 
in  getting  her  head  off  the  pier.  We  found  the  entrance 
to  the  inner  harbour  to  be  close  to  this  part  of  the  antient 
rampart;  but  it  was  eight  o'clock  a.  m.  October  the  twenty- 
ninth,  before  we  brought  the  vessel  to  an  anchor  off  the 
custom-house,  in  a  good  sandy  bottom,  and  about  four 
fathoms  water.  Seven  or  eight  fathoms  may  be  found  nearer 
to  the  mouth,  and  eleven  between  the  two  piers ;  the  bottom 
shelving  into  fifteen  and  twenty  fathoms  in  the  outer  port, 
with  good  anchorage1. 

At  ten  o'clock  we  landed;  and  having  mounted  our 
horses,  took  the  antient  road  to  the  city,  by  the  indistinct 
remains  of  the  walls  of  Conon2,  the  Sepulchre  of  Menander, 
and  the  Cenotaph  of  Euripides.  It  were  useless  to  relate 
the  feelings  with  which  we  viewed  the  grandest  and  most 
afFecting  sight  that  hath  been  left  for  modern  times. 
The  Classical  Reader,  already  convinced  that  nothing 
exists  upon  earth  to  equal  it,  may  give  a  traveller  credit  for 
emotions,  similar  to  those  excited  in  his  own  mind  by  the 
mere  mention  of  an  approach  to  Athens  ;  and  he  will  antici- 
pate, by  his  imagination,  what  it  is  impossible  to  describe. 

Such 


(1)  As  an  extraordinary  event  in  the  history  of  the  Pirceeus,  it  may  be  mentioned, 
that  the  author's  brother,  Captain  Clarke  of  the  Royal  Navy,  brought  an  English 
frigate,  the  Braakel,  to  an  anchor  within  this  port ;  but  not  without  considerable  damage 
to  the  ship.  The  Athenians  flocked  in  crowds  to  witness  this  extraordinary  spectacle. 
See  a  narrative  of  the  event,  in  the  Notes  to  an  edition  of  Falconer's  Shipwreck,  ly  the 
Rev.  J.  S.  Clarke,  LL.B.  the  Biographer  of  Nelson,  &c.  &c. 

(2)  'Aviovruv  ce  cKTleipaius,  ipeiwia  ruv  tbi\u>v  evtiv,  d  K-iVwj/  vcrrtpov  rtjc  Trpo: 
KviScv  vavf+ayiaq  dvioTjpi.    Pausan.  Attica,  c.  2.  p./.    Lip$.\5g6. 


APPROACH  TO  ATHENS. 


461 


Such  is  the  nature  of  the  place,  and  such  the  magnitude  of  its  chap,  xi. 
ruins,  that,  in  a  general  view,  time  seems  to  have  spent  its 
ravages  upon  it  in  vain.  The  Acropolis,  and  the  Temples, 
and  the  Tombs,  and  the  Theatres,  and  the  Groves,  and  the 
Mountains,  and  the  Rocks,  and  the  Plain,  and  the  Gardens, 
and  the  Vineyards,  and  the  Fountains,  and  the  Baths,  and 
the  Walls,  and  the  Gates,  are  as  they  appeared  to  Pericles, 
to   Socrates,   and  to  Alcibiades.      "  Adsunt  Athene,  unde 

HUMANITAS,  DOCTRINA,  RELIGIO,  FRUGES  JURA,  LEGES  ORT^E, 
ATQUE  IN  OMNES  TERRAS  DISTRIBUTEE  PUTANTUR ;  DE  QUARUM 
POSSESSIONE,  PROPTER  PULCRRITUDINEM,  ETIAM  INTER  DeOS 
CERTAMEN  PRODITUM  EST.  UrBS,  INQUAM,  QU^E  VETUSTATE 
EA  EST,  UT  IPSA  EX  SESE  SUOS  C1VES  GENUISSE  DICATUR : 
AUTHORITATE  AUTEM  TANTA,  UT  JAM  FRACTUM  PROPE  ET 
DEBILITATUM  GREECIJE  NOMEN,  HUJUS  URBIS  LAUDE  NITATUR." 


tag  Antieru 
10  Stadawi  of'L 
21  Pedestal 
*t  Fountain  ^^^H 
33  Forum 

34.Tihi/j!c  cflli'lTmlt 
;.')  (Wnimuiiiiiiir'Ptckm 
26  Tem/'/r  nf'TIusW 
,\'n,Ti,l  (^ritlhrnlktm 

\lhlMrw  Hattff  Hrtm 


CHAP.  XII. 


ATHENS. 

Origin  of  the  fabulous  Contest  between  Neptune  and  Minerva  — 
Antient  Sepulchral  Monument — Excavations  at  Athens — View  of  the 
Cecropian  Citadel — Funereal  Aspect  of  the  City — Objects  in  the 
perspective — State  of  the  Antiquities — Interesting  Relique — Remark 
upon  entering  Athens — Guilletiere — Ascent  of  the  Acropolis  — 
Relique  of  Phidian  Sculpture — Adytum  of  Pan — 'hgci  of  the  Greeks 
— Portable  Shrines — Statue  of  Pan — Celebrated  Artist — Spoliation 
of  the  Temples — Comparison  between  the  Grecian  and  Roman  Buildings 
— Athenian,  Posidonian,  and  iEginetan  Architecture — Cause  of 
the  Injury  sustained  in  the  Sculpture  of  the  Parthenon — Splendid 
Representation  of  the  Panathenaea — Description  of  the  Work — The 
Cothurnus,  an^Petasus  or  Pileus — Practice  of  gilding  and  painting 
Statues — Marbles  used  in  the  Acropolis — Singular  Construction  of 
the  Erecth^um  — Of  the  Prytan^um — Temples  of  Pandrosus  and 
Minerva  Polias — Of  the  Olive,  and  Well — Propylaea  — Walls  of 

the 


ATHENS. 


463 


CHAP.  XII. 


Origin  of  the 
fabulous  Con- 


the  Acropolis — Odeum    of    Regilla — General   description   of  the 
Theatres  of  Greece — Areopagus — Temple  of  Theseus. 

This  road,  from  the  Piraeeus  to  Athens,  extending  for  about 
five  miles,  formerly  passed  over  marshy  ground  ;  for  the 
foundations  of  the  two  long  walls,  which  inclosed  the  Piraeeus 
within  the  precincts  of  Athens,  were,  according  to  Plutarch, 
laid  in  a  marshy  soil,  prepared  for  the  purpose  by  being 
filled  with  huge  pieces  of  rock1.  An  inference  may  be 
deduced  from  this  circumstance,  which  does  not  seem  to  have 
been  noticed ;  that  inasmuch  as  the  plains  of  Greece  have 
evidently  resulted  from  the  retiring  of  waters  gradually 
carried  off  by  evaporation  and  by  other  causes,  the  lakes 
and  marshes  which  remained  in  antient  times  were  so 
many  reliques  of  the  retreating  flood.  Hence,  perhaps, 
the  origin  of  the  antiquated  and  popular  fable,  among  the  SptuneaS 
earliest  settlers  in  Attica,  of  the  contest  between  Neptune 
and  Minerva  for  the  country,  rather  than  that  which 
Plutarch2  has  assigned  as  the  source  of  it;  who  believed  it 
to  have  been  founded  on  the  endeavours  of  the  kings  to 
withdraw  the  people  from  a  sea-faring  life  to  the  labours  of 
agriculture.  After  this  contest  is  said  to  have  happened, 
Neptune  is  described  as  endeavouring  to  regain  the  territory 
by  subsequent  inundations.     Some  of  the  lakes  noticed  by 

historians 

(1)  Af'ytrai  tic  teal  twv  fAUKpuv  thxuv  &  (TKeXifKaXovai,  ffvvreXeirdtjvai  fj.sy  varepov 
n)v  otKocojxiav,  rrjv  ()£  rrpiortji'  QefieXiaxriv,  eh  toxovc  eXuSeiv  «al  diafipo^ove  tg>v  cpyav 
lii-maovTMv  ipsiadtjvai  Sid  K/jUwyoc  d<r<paXut;}  ydXiKi  iroXXrj  teal  XWoig  ftapeai  tuv 
iXuv  viiaQivTuv,  eicetvov  ^p7]f.tccta  Tropi£ovros  Kal  hi<)6vToc.  Plutarchi  Cimon.  tpm.  III. 
p.  125.     Lond.  1J23. 

(2)  Vid.  Plutarch,  in  Themi3t.  torn.  I.  p.  268.    Lond.  1729. 


^^^J^^i^"S^09ii9      ■      ^jt^JwJj^V-^^^faW-it^^^ 


^m 


S2* 


ywy**-'. 


464 


CHAP.  XII. 


Antient  Se- 
pulchral 
Monument. 


Excavations 
at  Athens. 


ATHENS. 

historians  arc  now  become  marshes,  and  the  marshes  they 
mention  are  become  dry  land.    There  is  now  little  appearance 
of  marshy  land  between  the  Piraeeus  and  Athens ' :   the  road 
lies  through   vineyards,    olive-grounds,    and  plantations    of 
fig-trees.     Several   plants    were   in  flower,   and   the  speci- 
mens we  collected  were  fresher  than  those  we  gathered   in 
the  islands.     In  one  of  the  vineyards   we  saw  a  Tumulus, 
which  is  undoubtedly  an  antient  sepulchre.     The  monument 
of   Euripides  was  a  Cenotaph,    but  that  of  Menander  did 
really   contain  his   ashes.     The  tomb  of  Euripides  was   at 
Pella,  in  Macedonia ;   possibly,  therefore,  this  mound  may 
have  been    the   sepulchre   of  the   Comic  Poet.     Pausanias, 
speaking    of  the   Cenotaph    of  Euripides,    calls   it  Mrjgfua8. 
This  is  evidently  a  Td<pog,  but  it  has   upon  its  summit  the 
remains  of  some  structure,  not  as  for  the  support  of  a  Stele, 
but  of  a  Mvnpfiov  raised  upon   the  mound ;  and  this  would 
rather  confirm  Chandler's  opinion,   who  believed  it  to   be 
the  monument  raised  to  Euripides3.     It  had  not  been  opened 
at  the  time  of  our  arrival.     The  business  of  making  exca- 
vations among   the  Grecian  tombs   was  then  beginning  in 
the  neighbourhood  of  Athens,  and  it  has  since  abundantly 
rewarded  the  taste  of  those  travellers  under  whose  patronage 
such  labours  have  been  carried  on4.  We  observed  the  remains 

of 

(1)  We  did  not  observe  any  thing  of  this  nature  in  the  road  from  the  Pirceeus ;  but 
in  the  map  of  Attica,  as  surveyed  by  Stuart,  there  is  notice  of  a  marshy  soil  borderirg 
the  Phalerum,  now  called  Porto  Phanari.     See  Stuart's  Athens,  vol.  III.  Lond.  l?94 

(2)  See  Pausanias,  lib.  i.  c.  2.  p.  6.    Lips.  \6g6. 

(3)  See  Trav.  in  Greece,  p.  24.    Oxf.  1/76. 

(4)  A  French  artist.  Mons.  Fauvel,  is  said  to  have  met  with  great  success  in  these 
researches.     Don  Battista  Lusieri  opened  several  tombs,  and  thus  made  a  collection  jf 

tie 


ATHENS. 


465 


of   the   antient   paved   way    leading    from     the     Piraeus;      chap  xir.^ 

also  of  an  aqueduct.     As   we   drew  near  to   the  walls,  we 

beheld  the  vast  Cecropian  Citadel,  crowned  with  temples     cecmpiau  ; 

Citadel 

that  originated  in  the  veneration  once  paid  to  the   memory 

of 


the  most  valuable  Grecian  vases.  Among  English  travellers,  the  Earl  of  Aberdeen  is 
particularly  distinguished  for  his  liberality  in  encouraging  works  of  this  kind:  the  more 
laudable,  in  being  opposed  to  the  lamentable  operations  which  another  British  Earl,  one 
of  his  Lordship's  countrymen,  was  then  prosecuting,  to  the  utter  ruin  of  the  finest  works 
of  Antient  Greece.  To  Lord  Aberdeen,  History  and  the  Fine  Arts  will  ever  be  indebted, 
for  the  pains  he  bestowed  in  the  excavation  and  restoration  of  the  Pnyx,  and  for  other 
similar  undertakings.  {See  Appendix  to  the  Cambridge  Marbles,  p.  67.  Camb.  I8O9.) 
Many  of  our  countrymen  have  since  followed  Lord  Aberdeen's  example. 

Upon  the  subject  of  the  excavations  at  Athens,  Mr.  Walpole  has  the  following 
observations  in  his  Journal : 

"  Travellers  who  will  be  at  the  pains  to  excavate  the  soil  in  the  vicinity  of  Athens 
will  be  amply  rewarded  for  their  trouble.  The  vases  which  Signor  Lusieri  has  found  in 
digging  near  the  city  are,  in  their  form  and  general  execution,  not  to  be  surpassed  by  any 
that  have  been  discovered  in  Italy  and  Sicily.  Among  other  remains  of  antiquity,  he  has 
found  musical  instruments  (the  avXdt  and  wXayiavXos,  called  by  the  Modern  Greeks, 
rraytavXtov),  ornaments  of  dress  of  various  kinds,  ear-rings  of  gold,  and  mirrors.  These 
last  are  of  metal :  in  Pliny  (lib.  34.)  we  find  mention  of  the  employment  of  tin  and 
silver  in  the  fabrication  of  them  :  the  Jews  and  Egyptians  used  those  made  of  brass.  In 
the  time  of  Pompey  there  were  some  of  silver.  The  form  of  the  antient  mirror  is 
observed  frequently  on  vases  in  this  shape  <j>,  being  the  character  of  one  of  the  planets 
and  a  metal;  namely,  Venus,  and  copper:  the  meaning  of  it,  thus  applied,  is  evident, 
as  mirrors  were  sacred  to  Venus,  and  were  made  of  a  metal  from  Cyprus  j  that  is, 
copper,  and  were  covered  with  a  leaf  of  silver.  In  the  analysis  of  a  mirror,  Caylus 
discovered  a  mixture  of  copper,  regulus  of  antimony,  and  lead :  copper  was  the  pre- 
ponderating; lead,  the  least  part. 

"  In  the  Ceramicus,  near  to  the  site  of  the  Academy,  was  discovered  that  very  antient 
and  interesting  Inscription  in  verse  (now  in  England),  of  which  Mons.  Fauvel  gave  me  a 
copyat  Athens,  relating  to  those  Athenians  who  had  fallen  at  Potidaea,  in  thePeloponnesian 
war:  the  first  line, legible,  begins,  AI0EPMEM$2YXAIYriEAEX2ATO  .  .  . 
The  form  of  the  letters,  and  other  archaisms,  render  the  inscription  very  valuable.  Near 
the  Church  of  Soteira  Lycodemon,  probably  the  site  of  the  antient  Lyceum,  was  found 
an  Inscription  copied  also  by  Mons.  Fauvel,  mentioning  Dionysius,  Avke'iov  tV^fX^'r^c. 
The  removal  of  the  earth  from  part  of  the  Pnyx  has  given  us  a  more  exact  notion  of 
VOL.  III.  3  O  the 


W^B^BI 


466 


CHAP.  XII. 


Funereal 
Aspect  of  the 
City. 


ATHENS. 

of  the  illustrious  dead ',  surrounded  by  objects  telling  the  same 
theme  of  sepulchral  grandeur,  and  now  monuments  of  de- 
parted greatness,  mouldering  in  all  the  solemnity  of  ruin.  So 
paramount  is  this  funereal  character  in  the  approach  to  Athens 
from  the  Pirceens,  that  as  we  passed  the  hill  of  the  Musdum, 
which  was  in  fact  an  antient  cemetery  of  the  Athenians,  we 
might  have  imagined  ourselves  to  be  among  the  tombs  of 
Telmessus,  from  the  number  of  the  sepulchres  hewn  in  the 
rock,  and  from  the  antiquity  of  the  workmanship,  evidently 
not  of  later  date  than  any  thing  of  the  kind  in  Asia  Minor. 
In  other  respects  the  city  exhibits  nearly  the  appearance 
so  briefly  described  by  Strabo  eighteen  centuries  before 
our  coming2;  and  perhaps  it  wears  a  more  magnificent 
aspect,  owing  to  the  splendid  remains  of  Hadrian's  Temple 
of    Olympian   Jove,   which    did    not    exist    when    Athens 

was 

the  form  of  that  celebrated  place  of  assembly.  A  number  of  votive  offerings  were 
found  at  the  time  of  the  excavation  by  Lord  Aberdeen ;  but  to  what  Deity  or  what 
temple  they  belonged,  it  is  difficult  to  say.  On  one  of  them,  having  an  eye  sculptured 
on  the  stone,  were  the  words  EiloSoc  w|/(Vrw  sif^r/v :  on  another  I  saw  *S.vvTpo6o<: 
v\piaru  Aift  ^apKTrtjpiov ."  Walpole"  s  MS.  Journal. 

(1)  The  first  place  of  worship  in  the  Acropolis  of  Athens  was  the  Sepulchre  of  Cecrops. 
The  Parthenon  was  erected  upon  the  spot.  (See  the  Observations  in  Ch.  XVII.  of  tie 
First  Part  of  these  Travels,  p.  400.  Second  edit.)  The  Athenians  preserved  his  tonb 
in  the  Acropolis,  and  that  of  Ericthonius  in  the  Temple  of  Minerva Polias.  (Vid.Antioci. 
ap.  Clemen.  Alexand.  torn.  I.  p.3Q.  Oxon.  1715.)  Hence  Clemens  is  of  opinion  tint 
tombs  were  the  origin  of  all  their  temples :  Nf«e  fiev  ev<j)^/u.uc  6vop.aCop.ivov., 
TU<f>ovs  Si  ytvofiivovs,  Tovrtan  rov\  rdcftovt;  vfw\-  i7riKiK\np.ivovg.  Clementis  Ale;- 
andrini  Cohortatio  ad  Gentes,  c.  3.  torn.  I.  p.  39.     O\on.  1715. 

(2)  To  £'  darv  avro  irlrpa  iarlv  iv  irehiu,  vtptoiKovp.iv>f  kvk\^>'  iirl  Si  rij  wlrpq.  70 
rtjr  'AOtjvck;  iepov,  o,  tb  dp\cuos  vtoh  6  rijs  IloAtacSoc,  iv  y  6  daftearoc  Xv^vot,  Keti  6 
Uup6tvi.h>,  ov  tTrohjGEv  Iktivos,  iv  u  ro  tov  Qticlov  'ipyov  iXt&dvrivov,  r\  'Adriiu. 
Strabon.  Geog.  lib.  viii.  p.  574.     Oxon.  1S07. 


: -fi  JRS^**T*»SWwa«^,- 


ATHENS. 


46? 


was  visited  by  the  disciple  of  Xenarchus.  The  prodigious 
columns  belonging  to  this  temple  appeared  full  in  view 
between  the  Citadel  and  the  bed  of  the  Ilissus3:  high 
upon  our  left  rose  the  Acropolis,  in  the  most  impressive 
grandeur4:  an  advanced  part  of  the  rock  upon  the  western 
side  of  it  is  the  Hill  of  the  Areopagus,  where  St.  Paul 
preached  to  the  Athenians,  and  where  their  most  solemn 
tribunal  was  held5.  Beyond  all,  appeared  the  beautiful 
Plain  of  Athens,  bounded  by  Mount  Hymettus.  We  rode 
towards  the  craggy  rock  of  the  Citadel,  passing  some 
tiers  of  circular  arches  at  the  foot  of  it ;  these  are 
the  remains  of  the  Oddum  of  Herodes  Atticus6,  built 
in  memory  of  his  wife  Regilla.  Thence  continuing  to 
skirt  the  base  of  the  Acropolis,  the  road  winding  rather 
towards  the  north,  we  saw  also,  upon  our  left,  scooped  in 
the  solid  rock,  the  circular  sweep  on  which  the  Athenians 
were  wont  to  assemble  to  hear  the  plays  of  ^Eschylus, 
and  where  the  Theatre  of  Bacchus  was  afterwards  con- 
structed. The  Torso  of  a  statue  of  the  Indian  Bacchus, 
placed,  in  a  sitting  attitude,  upon  the  Choragic  Monument 
of  Thrasyllus  above  this  theatre,  exhibited  to  us  the  first 

specimen 


(3)  See  the  Plate  facing  p.  504,  from  a  drawing  by  Preaux,  made  upon  the  spot: 
also  the  Vignette  to  this  Chapter.  The  author  pretends  not  to  agitate  the  quescion, 
whether  this  building  be  really  the  Temple  of  Jupiter,  or  the  Pantheon ;  the  Reader  may 
be  referred  to  the  proofs  in  support  of  the  former  opinion,  as  they  are  given  by  the  Earl 
of  Aberdeen,  in  the  Introduction  to  IFilkins's  Translation  of  Vitruvius,  p.  66.  also  in 
Note  (1)  to  page  Q  of  the  Text  of  that  work.     Lond.  1812. 

(4)  See  the  Plate  facing  p.  504.  and  Vignette  to  this  Chapter. 

(5)  Ibid.  (6)  Ibid. 


CHAP.  XII. 


Objects  in  the 
perspective. 


State  of  the 
Antiquities. 


^^s^s^ss^jtf^ 


■ 


468 


CHAP.  XII. 


Interesting 
Relique. 


ATHENS. 

specimen  of  Athenian  sculpture  which  we  had  seen  upon 
the  spot;  and  with  the  additional  satisfaction  of  viewing 
it  in  the  situation  where  it  was  originally  placed'.  Stuart 
considered  the  theatre  as  the  Oddum  of  Pericles2;  and  it  is 
remarkable  that  Pausanias  mentions  a  statue  of  Bacchus,  as 
worthy  of  notice,  in  a  conspicuous  situation  upon  entering 
the  Odeum5.  Upon  the  eastern  side  of  this  statue,  fastened 
in  the  rock,  appeared  a  still  more  interesting  relique;  namely, 
the  very  antient  Sun-dial  which,  in  the  time  of  iEschylus,  of 
Sophocles,  and  Euripides,  indicated  to  the  Athenian  people 
the  hour  at  which  their  plays  were  to  begin.  This  we  had 
reason  to  hope  would  be  permitted  to  remain  where  it  had 
been  so  long  preserved ;  as  no  antient  nor  modern  Alaric 
had  deemed  it  to  be  an  object  worthy  of  his  regard.  Above 
the  statue  we  saw  also  the  two  Choragic  Pillars  for  supporting 
tripods,  described  by  Chandler4  and  by  Stuart5,  standing  high 

upon 

(1)  This  statue  was  long  believed  to  be  that  of  a  female.  Stuart  represented  it  with 
a  female  head.  (See  Stuart's  Antic/,  of  Athens,  vol.11,  ch.'w.  PL  6.  LomLl/Sy.) 
Chandler  considered  it  as  the  statue  of  Niobe.  (Trav.  in  Greece,  p.  64.  Oxf.  17/6.) 
It  really  represented  the  Indian,  or  bearded,  Bacchus ;  part  of  the  beard  having  been 
discovered  upon  the  statue.  It  is  moreover  decorated  with  the  spoils  of  a  pantler. 
Alas  !  not  only  this  Statue,  but  also  the  antient  Sun-dial  near  to  it,  which  had  exis:ed 
there  ever  since  the  time  of  iEschylus,  Sophocles,  and  Euripides — antiquities  which  were 
only  valuable  as  long  as  they  remained  in  their  original  situation — have  been  since  puded 
down  and  carried  off,  in  the  name  of  the  British  Nation,  by  the  agents  of  our  Ambassalor 
at  the  Porte!!! 

(2)  Antiq.  of  Athens,  vol.  II.  p.  /.  Letter  k. 

(3)  'Ec  ct  to  Adtjvtjiriv  tKjeXdovmp  pdeiov,  dWd  tz  Kal  kiuvvaoc  kutcii  deac  cttoi. 
Pausan.  lib.  i.  c.  14.  p.  34.    Lips.  l6g6. 

(4)  Trav.  in  Greece,  p.  63.    Oxford,  1776. 

(5)  Antiq.  of  Athens,  vol.  II.  ch.  4.    Lond.  \7%7- 


$r*stfe&mii)*mKW!n* 


ATHENS. 


469 


upon  the  steep  acclivity  of  the  rock".     Fortunately  for  us,      chap-xii. 
we  arrived  before  the  spoliation  of  this  part  of  the  antient 
city  had  been  begun,  and  we  therefore  saw  all  these  interesting 
objects  as  they  existed  in  the  time  of  Pericles. 

We  then  entered  the  gate  of  the  modern  city;  and  almost 
the  first  object  we  beheld  was  the  only  remaining  structure 
of  all  the  consecrated  fabrics  that  once  adorned  the  famous 
Street  of  the  Tripods,  the  elegant  choragic  Monument  of 
Lysicrates1 .  In  the  small  Capuchin  convent  annexed  to 
this  building,  our  friend  and  former  companion  in  the  Plain 
of  Troy,  Don  Battista  Lusieri8,  had  fixed  his  residence. 
A  monk  told  us  that  he  was  then  busy  in  the  Acropolis,  making 
drawings  in  the  Erectheum  ;  therefore  leaving  our  horses 
and  baggage,  we  set  out  instantly  in  pursuit  of  him, 
anticipating  the  gratification  we  should  receive,  not  only  in 

surprising 


(6)  See  the  Plate. 

(7)  See  Stuart's  Antiq.  of  Athens,  vol.  I.  ch.  iv.  Plate  3.    Land.  1J62. 

(8)  This  celebrated  artist,  better  known  by  the  name  of  Don  Tita,  is  a  native  of 
Naples :  he  resided  many  years  in  Italy,  where  he  was  renowned  for  his  beautiful 
drawings  in  water-colours.  Many  of  his  best  works  are  in  the  Collections  of  our 
English  Nobility.  By  some,  his  compositions  have  been  deemed  too  laboured  ;  but  his 
colouring  is  exquisite,  and  nothing  can  exceed  the  fidelity  and  perfection  of  his  outline 
and  perspective.  It  may  be  said  of  Lusieri,  as  of  Claude  Lorrain,  "  If  he  be  not  the  Poet, 
he  is  the  Historian  of  Nature."  When  the  French  invaded  Naples,  he  retired  to  Sicily, 
and  was  long  employed  among  the  Ruins  of  Agrigentum,  devoted  entirely  to  his  favourite 
pursuit.  The  desire  of  seeing  Greece  tempted  him  to  follow  the  British  Embassy  to 
Constantinople  in  1799-  whence  he  removed  to  Athens $  where  he  now  lives,  sur- 
rounded by  every  thing  that  may  exercise  his  genius  j  and  where  he  is  not  less 
distinguished  by  his  amiable  disposition,  and  disinterested  attention  to  travellers  who  visit 
the  city,  than  by  his  taste,  and  knowledge  of  every  thing  connected  with  the  history  of 
the  Pine  Arts. 


470 


CHAP.  XII. 


Remarks  upon 

entering 

Athens, 


ATHENS. 

surprising  him  by  our  appearance  where  he  had  not  the 
smallest  expectation  of  seeing  us,  but  also  in  viewing  the 
noblest  monuments  of  antiquity  with  a  Cicerone  so  well 
qualified  to  point  out  their  beauties. 

As  we  are  now  about  to  ascend  the  Acropolis,  and  of 
course  to  enter  upon  a  description  of  antiquities  which  are 
well  known,  it  is  necessary  to  premise  that  our  observations 
will  be  brief.  To  give  a  detailed  account  of  every  thing 
which  has  been  hitherto  deemed  worthy  of  notice  in  such 
a  city  as  Athens,  would  be  as  much  a  work  of  supererogation 
as  to  republish  all  the  inscriptions  which  have  been  found 
in  the  place,  and  to  renew  the  detail  of  every  circumstance 
so  often  related  concerning  its  antient  history.  The  author's 
remarks  will  be  confined  to  such  observations  as,  to  the 
best  of  his  knowledge,  have  not  been  made  by  former 
travellers  ;  but  perhaps,  even  in  such  a  communication,  it 
will  not  be  always  possible  to  avoid  repeating  what  others 
may  have  said.  A  mistaken  opinion  prevailed  until  towards 
the  end  of  the  seventeenth  century1,  that  the  remains  of 
Athens  had  been  almost  rased  from  the  earth,  and  that  even 
its  name  no  longer  existed.  The  few  merchants  who  re- 
sorted to  the  Piraeus,  from  Italy  and  from  other  parts  of  the 
Mediterranean,  had  given  to  it  the  barbarous  appellation  of 

Setines, 


(l)  Chandler  says,  " until  the  middle  of  the  sixteenth  century;"  but  the  public 
curiosity  does  not  appear  to  have  been  directed  to  this  city  until  long  after  the  publication 
of  the  work  to  which  he  alludes. 


ATHENS. 


471 


Serines,  or  Sethina-;  although,  "  of  all  the  antient  cities  in  chap,  xii. 
Greece,"  as  an  early  traveller  hath  remarked  who  will  pre- 
sently be  more  particularly  noticed,  "  no  one  has  preserved  its 
name  with  better  success  than  Athens  has  done ;  for  both 
Greeks  and  Turks  call  it  'A0tivtj."  This  is  another  instance 
of  the  corruptions  introduced  into  the  modern  nomencla- 
ture of  places  in  Greece  by  Italians  and  by  Frenchmen  : 
and  it  ought  to  be  the  constant  endeavour  of  authors,  by 
whom  the  country  is  described,  to  prevent  this  abuse,  by 
adopting  the  antient  names  in  their  writings,  where  it  can 
be  done  with  propriety,  and  certainly  in  all  cases  where 
they  have  been  preserved  by  the  inhabitants.  It  has  been 
supposed  that  the  first  intelligence  of  the  better  fate  of 
Athens  was  communicated  to  the  world  by  the  valuable 
publications  of  Sir  George  Wheler  and  Jacob  Spon :  but 
seven  years  before  Wheler  and  his  companion  arrived  in 
Athens,  it  had  been  visited  by  the  traveller  above  mentioned; 
who  anticipated  almost  every  thing  which  they  have  said 
upon  this    subject ;    and  the  narrative  of  whose   Travels, 

although 


(2)  Sethina,  and  Satina,  are  corruptions,  according  to  Portus  and  Meursius,  from 
etc  'A6>}vd.  Various  conjectures  have  arisen  touching  the  origin  of  the  antient  name. 
Heinsius  (in  Aristar.  Sac.  Synt.  I.  1.  p.  2J.)  derives  it  from  the  Chaldaean  ton  thena, 
signifying  to  study  or  learn,  written  with  an  article,  hatthena.  In  the  time  of  Diodorus 
Siculus,  and  before  him,  it  was  a  received  opinion  that  Athens  was  peopled  by  the 
Egyptians:  Sais  in  the  Egyptian  language  answering  to  Athence  in  Greek.  The  word 
Sethina  is  found  in  the  Latin  Poem  of  Hugo  Favolius  (in  Hodcep.  Byz.  I.  iii.)  who 
himself  visited  the  spot. 

"  Undique  sic  miserae  nobis  spectantur  Athenae, 

Daedala  quas  Pallas  sese  coluisse  negaret, 

Quas,  Neptune  pater,  nunquam  tua  mcenia  dicas, 

Indigenae  Sethina  vocant." — — — 


472 


CHAP.  XII. 


Guilletiere. 


ATHENS. 

although  little  known  and  rarely  noticed  by  any  subsequent 
author,  contains  the  most  racy  description  of  the  city  and 
of  its  inhabitants,  of  its  antiquities  and  statistics,  which 
had  appeared  before  the  time  of  its  publication.  This 
traveller  was  De  La  Guilletiere,  or,  as  he  sometimes  signed 
himself,  Guillet,  answering  to  a  name  common  in  England, 
Willet.  After  four  years  of  slavery  in  Barbary,  he  arrived  in 
Athens,  in  company  with  two  Italians,  two  Germans,  and  an 
Englishman  of  the  name  of  Drelingston,  the  first  of  our 
countrymen  who  voluntarily  undertook  this  voyage  for  the 
mere  gratification  of  classical  taste  and  literary  curiosity. 
The  original  edition  of  Guilletiere 's  work  appeared  in  Paris 
in  January  1675.  In  the  beginning  of  June  in  the  same  year, 
Wheler  "  hastened  to  Venice,"  (it  is  his  own  expression1,) 
after  his  travels  in  France  and  Italy,  in  search  of  Dr.  Spo?i, 
to  accompany  him  upon  a  similar  voyage.  It  is  therefore 
highly  probable  that  the  success  of  Guilletiere 's  expedition 
excited  Wheler  to  this  sudden  undertaking :  that  he  had 
seen  his  work  is  evident,  for  he  cites  it,  calling  its  author 
De  La  Guiltier*,  and  Guiliter5 ;  and  although  he  speaks 
rather  lightly  of  his  predecessor4,  he  sometimes  copies  him 
without  owning  his  obligation5.     His  companion,  Spon,  had 

done 

(1)  Wheler's  Journey  into  Greece,  p.  1.    Land.  1682. 

(2)  Ibid  p.  340. 

(3)  Ibid.  p.  363. 

(4)  "  But  not  as  Monsieur  Guiliter  affirmeth"  ....  "  My  companion  and  I  were 

not    so   much    surprized,  &c.    as   Monsieur  Guiliter" those  marvelous  stones 

Monsieur  Guiliter  makes  such  a  miracle  of"  ....  &c.        Ibid. 

(5)  Of  this,  several  instances  may  be  pointed  out,  where  the  transcript  is  as  literal  as 
it  can  be  from  one  language  into  another.  "  A  l'egard  du  langage,  il  est  le  plus  pur,  et 
le  moins  corrompu  de  la  Grece."    (Guillet,  p.  155.    Paris,  1675.)     "  The  Athenians 

seem 


?3Wa^**»sw*.., 


ATHENS.  4^3 

done  the  same  ;  but,  with  all  his  learning,  he  has  not  pro-  chap.  xii. 
duced  either  so  entertaining  a  work  as  that  of  Guilletiere, 
or,  divested  of  its  inscriptions,  one  that  contains  more  of 
information.  We  may  therefore,  perhaps,  look  to  Guilletiere 
as  to  the  person  who  first  drew  the  attention  of  English 
travellers  towards  the  Ruins  of  Athens  ;  for  although  the 
Letters,  giving  a  description  of  the  city,  which  were  published 
by  Martin  Crusius,  appeared  nearly  a  hundred  years  before, 
yet  those  Letters  have  attracted  more  notice  in  this  country 
since,  than  before,  Wheler  s  time ;  and  they  always  tended 
rather  to  maintain  than  to  confute  the  erroneous  notion, 
which  was  so  long  prevalent,  concerning  the  condition  of 
the  city6.  Guilletiere' s  unassuming  although  very  diminutive 
publication  is  so  comprehensive,  that,  abating  a  few  partial 
inaccuracies,  the  consequences  of  pursuing  an  untrodden 
path,  his  book  is,  even  at  the  present  day,  a  useful  guide  to 
the  antiquities  of  Athens  ;  and  his  plan  of  the  city,  rude  as 
it  may  appear  among  the  works  of  later  artists,  is  so  much 

better 


seem  to  retain  more  of  the  antient  Greek  in  their  language  than  the  rest  of  the  modern 
Greeks  do.1*  {Wheler' s  Journey  into  Greece,  p.  355.  Lond.  1682.)  And,  after  all, 
this  is  not  true ;  for  the  purest  Greek  is  not  spoken  in  Athens.  Again,  Guilletiere,  after 
the  passage,  which  the  author  has  cited,  concerning  the  existence  of  the  antient  name  of 
the  city,  says,  "  Nos  geographes  ont  beau  nous  le  vouloir  alterer  en  l'appellant  Setines." 
Wheler  transcribes  the  whole;  and  also  adds,  «  I  wonder  our  modern  geographers  have 
been  no  better  informed  concerning  so  eminent  a  place,  calling  it  most  corruptly,  in  their 
maps,  Setines".  .  .  &c.  There  are  many  other  examples  of  a  similar  nature,  in  the 
Volumes  both  of  Wheler  and  Spon. 

(6)  One  of  those  Letters  is  from  a  native  of  Nauplia  :  it  was  written  in  1575.     Its 

author   says,     <"A\\rf   rt   tuv  'AOijvw  fivr^dt,   fxaKpoXoycZ;   Up^a    Xe^de^ag  rov 

rrdXat  work  frov.     Sed  quid   multa  de  Athenis  dico  ?     Superest  hodie   tantum  pellis  : 

animal  ipsum  olim  periit."  Vid.  Epist.  Fam.  TurcograscicB,  lib.  vii.  p.  430.     Basil.  1583. 

VOL.   III.  3  P 


47* 


CHAP.  XII. 


Ascent  of  the 
Acropolis. 


ATHENS. 

better  than  that  which   Whdcr  afterwards  edited,    that  it 
is  strange  the  latter  did  not  adopt  it  in  his  work. 

As  we  ascended  the  steep  rock  on  which  the  Citadel  stands, 
our  first  subject  of  wonder  was  the  power  displayed  by  the 
Antients  in  conveying  up  such  an  acclivity  the  enormous 
masses  of  marble  necessary  in  the  construction  of  so  man}- 
sumptuous  edifices ;  when  all  the  skill  and  ingenuity  of  the 
best  workmen  in  Europe  were  requisite,  at  the  time  of  our 
arrival,  to  remove  some  of  the  most  delicate  ornaments  of 
the  temples,  in  an  entire  state,  from  the  Acropolis  to  the 
lower  city.  None  of  the  materials  of  those  temples  are  of 
the  same  nature  as  the  rock  upon  which  they  were  erected  : 
the  quarries  of  Pentelicus,  of  Hymettus,  of  the  Cyclades,  of 
Lacedcemon,  and  of  the  most  distant  mountains  of  Greece, 
contributed  to  the  works  necessary  for  their  completion. 
All  the  huge  blocks  of  marble  required  for  the  several  parts 
of  each  building  must  have  been  moved  up  the  same  steep  ; 
for  there  is  now,  as  there  was  formerly,  but  one  way  facing 
the  Piraeus  by  which  the  summit  may  be  approached1. 
[n  our  ascent  we  found  an  inscription  on  white  marble, 
stating  that  "  the  Senate  of  the  Areopagus,  and  of  the  six 
hundred,  &c.  honour  Julius,"  &c.  the  rest  being  wanted: 
we  could  only  make  out  the  following  characters  : 

HEZAPEIOYHArOYBOY 

AHTI1NEEAKOZIX2NKAI 

IOYAION  N  I  KAN  OPA  .  . 
Soon  afterwards,  somewhat  higher  up,  we  also  saw,  among 

some 

(l)  'Ec    £«   ti)v    aKpoToXip,   toriv   ntroloc   fita,    (ircpav   £t   ov   7raptysTcti,    vaact 
awoTonos  otiaa)  teal  retvos  t^ovoa  cyypdv.    Pausaniae  Attica,  c.  22.  p.  51.    Lips.  l6g6. 


«?  hIS'  rWlM&M-Mum.—  I 


ATHENS. 


475 


some  loose  stones  used  as  the  materials  of  a  wall,  near 
to  the  gate  of  the  Citadel,  a  piece  of  sculpture  of  white 
marble  in  very  bold  relief,  representing  the  torso  of  a 
male  figure.  This  proved  to  be  nothing  less  than  a  frag- 
ment of  one  of  the  metopes  belonging  to  the  Parthenon; 
and  therefore,  as  the  undoubted  work  of  Phidias,  although 
but  a  fragment,  could  not  fail  to  be  regarded  by  us  as 
a  valuable  relique,  and  a  very  great  curiosity.  It  was 
not  to  be  easily  procured ;  neglected  and  abandoned  as 
we  found  it  lying;  owing  to  the  embargo  then  laid  upon 
every  thing  of  this  kind  by  our  Ambassador,  and  the 
absolute  prohibition  against  moving  any  thing,  excepting 
into  his  store-house.  The  Disdar,  however,  afterwards 
claimed  it  as  his  property,  and  presented  it  to  us;  and 
it  is  now  in  the  Vestibule  of  the  University  Library  at 
Cambridge,  a  solitary  example  of  sculpture  removed  from  the 
ruins  of  the  Parthenon  without  injuring  what  time  and  the 
Goths  have  spared.  Upon  the  left  hand  we  saw,  in  the  face 
of  the  rock,  the  small  cavern  which  perhaps  may  be  consi- 
dered as  the  Grotto  of  Pan;  for  this,  by  its  relative  position 
to  other  objects,  seems  to  be  the  identical  cavity  which  is 
represented  in  the  view  of  the  Acropolis  preserved  upon 
an  antient  medal  of  Athens  in  the  Collection  at  Paris2. 
It  is  below  the  right  wing  of  the  Propylcea,  or  antient 
vestibules  of  the  Citadel,  in  the  situation  which  Pausanias 
assigns  for  it :  and  somewhat  lower  in  the  rock  is  the  fountain 

mentioned 


CHAP.  XII. 


Relique  of 

Phidian 

Sculpture. 


Adytum 
of  Pan. 


(2)  See  the  Greek  Coin  engraved  for  Barthelemy's  Anacharsis,  Tab.  XXVII.  No.  1. 
Paris,  179O. 


M 


476 


A  THEN  S. 


chap,  xti.     mentioned  also  by  him1.     In  other  respects  it  seems  ill  suited 
to  the  stories  which  caused  it  to  be  considered  as  the  scene  of 
Apollo  s  amours  with  Creusa,  and  as  a  place  of  residence  for 
Pan:  but  when  the  mind  is  completely  subdued  by  super- 
stition, it  is  seldom  burdened  by  any  scruples'  as  to  proba- 
bility :   the  same  priests  who  now  exhibit  at  Jerusalem  the 
altar  of  a  small  chapel  as  the  Hill  of  the  Crucifixion*  are  a 
modern  example  of  the  NaopuXaxeg  who  attended  the  Shrine 
of  Pan,  and    they  possess    a   degree   of  intellect   as  well 
calculated  for  admitting  the  extravagances  related  of  the  one 
as  of  the  other.     The  Grotto,  as  it  now  appears,  seems  to  be 
nothing  more  than  one  of  those  niches   in  which  votive- 
offerings  were  placed;    and  although   described  as  a  cave 
which  contained  a  temple  of  Apollo,  and  of  Pan3,    would 
barely  admit  the  size  of  a  human  figure.     But  this  allusion 
in  antient  history  to  temples  so  diminutive  that  they  could 
not  have   exceeded   the   size  of  a  child's  baby-house,   may 
receive  illustration,  like  many  other  parts  of  the  Heathen 
religion,   from  existing  superstitions.     The  subject  has  not 
perhaps  been  sufficiently  explained;  as  none  of  the  authors 
who  have  written  on  Grecian  antiquities  seem  to  be  aware 
of  a  custom  which  has  been  transmitted  from  the  earliest 
ages  of  Pagan  worship  to  modern   times.     The  'Is^a  of  the 
Greeks,  as  well  as  the  Tabernacles  of  Eastern  nations,  were 

sometimes 


'lig<x  of  the 
Greeks. 


(1)  Kctrafidcri  Bt  ovk  te  rrjy  kcItu  ttoXiv,  cfW  oaov  vtto  rd  7rpoirv\a.ia,  mfyfi  Tt 
vdaTOc  tun,  teal  irXrjcriov  ' AttoWuvos  iepov  iv  tnnfkaia,  ical  Ylav6<:.  Pausaniae,  lib.  i. 
cap.  28.  p.  68.    Lips.  I6g6. 

(2)  See  the  former  Section,  cap.  xvi.  p.  54^.    Second  Edition. 

(3)  Vid.  Pausan.  lib.  i.  ubi  supra. 


ATHENS. 


47? 


sometimes  not  only  portable,  but  they  were  so  small,  that 
the   zia-rcci  Ugbs),   used   for  inclosing  them  during  journeys, 
scarcely  exceeded   the   size   of  the  fashionable  snuff-boxes 
now    used    by    the    petit-maitres    of    Paris    and    London. 
Examples   of  this  kind    of  portable  shrine  are  particularly 
common   in    Russia,    and    in    all    countries    professing   the 
religion    of  the  Greek   Church:    they   are  made   either    of 
wood  or  of  metal,  with  two  little  folding-doors,  which  are 
thrown  open  when  the  Bogh  or  idol  is  to  be  worshipped4.    Of 
such  a  nature  were  the  shrines  alluded  to  in   the  history  of 
the  actions  of  the  Apostles,  where  Demetrius  is  described  as 
stirring  up  those  who  made  silver  shrines  or  tabernacles  for 
Diana5;   that  is   to  say,  little  temples,  or  cabinets  after  the 
manner    of  temples.     The  custom  of  using  them   has  been 
retained  among  the  Roman-Catholics.     The  first  converts  to 
Christianity  brought  the  use  of  portable  temples  with   them 
into  the  Christian  Church;  for,  according  to  Socrates  Scho- 
lasticus,  the  Emperor  Constantine  carried  with  him  a  portable 
temple   in   his  expedition  against  the  Persians,   not  for  the 
worship  of  any  idol,  but  of  the  true  God6:   this  was  a  kind 
of  fczz^said  to  resemble  the  tabernacle  of  Moses  in  the  desert7. 
Temples  of  this  kind  were  also  drawn  by  cattle.  The  Philistines 

sent 


CHAP.  XII. 


Portable 
Shrines. 


(4)  The  pictures  of  Roman-Catholic  churches  have  preserved  the  form  of  these 
shrines  to  a  very  late  age;  the  doors  themselves  being  painted,  and  serving,  when  thrown 
open,  to  exhibit  a  subject  in  three  com  parti  men  ts.  Of  this  form  was  the  famous  picture 
of  the  Crucifixion,  by  Rubens,  in  the  Cathedral  at  Antwerp. 

(5)  Acts  xix.  24. 

(6)  Socrates  Scholasticus,  lib.  i.  c.  18.  Cantab.  1^20. 

(7)  Ibid. 


:\Qii-^tCx!*ot<.*r.y9t* 


......... 


ATHENS. 

sent  back  "  the  Ark  of  the  God  of  Israel"  in  "a  new 
cart"  drawn  by  "  two  milch  kine1."  The  temple  of  Agrotes, 
according  to  Sanchoniatho,  was  drawn  by  oxen.  The  portable 
temple  was  also  sometimes  carried  upon  men's  shoulders: 
and  although  the  "  bearing"  or  "  talcing  up  of  Tabernacles" 
are  expressions  used  metaphorically  in  Scripture  for  the 
adoration  paid  to  them,  yet  they  are  borrowed  from  a 
practice,  which  was  well  known  at  the  time,  of  carrying 
the  Tabernacle  upon  the  shoulders  of  men  from  one  place 
to  another.  Thus  the  Israelites  are  said  to  have  "  borne" 
and  to  "  take  up"  the  "  Tabernacle  of  Moloch2."  Such 
portable  temples  among  the  Antients  were  conveyed  with 
them  to  their  wars,  and  accompanied  them  upon  their 
travels.  This  was  the  constant  usage  of  the  Arabians3, 
Egyptians4,  Trojans5,  Carthaginians6,  and  Germans7.  When 
settlements  were  made,  and  cities  built,  they  were  of 
course  deposited  in  safe  but  conspicuous  places;  in  cavities 
fashioned  for  the  purpose,  within  the  rocks  on  which  their 
citadels  stood;  or  in  niches,  by  the  side  of  their  most 
frequented  roads.  Hiera,  answering  to  this  description, 
are   found    at    this    day,    in    all   countries    professing    the 

Greek 

(1)  1  Sam.  c.  vi.  3,  7,  &c. 

(2)  Amos,  c.  v.    Psalms,  &c. 

(3)  See  the  authors  quoted  by  Hottinger,  Comp.  Theatri  Orient,  c.  i. 

(4)  Apuleius  Apol.  p.  506. 

(5)  See   Servius  on  iEn.  vi.  ver.  68.    Dio,  lib.  xl.    Herodian.  lib.  iv.   and   Amni. 
Marcellinus,  lib.  xxii. 

(6)  See  Calmet's   Diet.    art.  Niches  ,•  and   the  authors  referred    to   by  Fal-rkiu., 
Bibliographia  Ant.  c.  viii.  IS. 

(7)  Tacit,  de  Mor.  Germ. 


ATHENS. 


479 


Statue  of 
Pan. 


Greek  and  Roman-Catholic  religions;  before  which  votive  t CHAp- xir. 
gifts  are  placed,  as  in  former  ages :  and  this  seems  sufficient 
to  explain  the  sort  of  temples  alluded  to  by  antient  authors, 
as  being  here  stationed  within  a  niche,  called  the  Cave  of  Pan, 
in  the  face  of  the  rock  below  the  Acropolis  of  Athens. 
Within  this  cave  there  formerly  stood  a  statue  of  the  goat- 
footed  God;  who,  on  that  account,  was  said  by  Euripides8, 
and  by  Luciany,  to  have  fixed  his  residence  at  Athens,  beneath 
the  northern  or  Pelasgic  wall  of  the  Acropolis:  and  it  is 
rather  remarkable,  that  in  a  garden  below  this  Grotto  at 
the  foot  of  the  rock,  there  was  discovered  a  marble  statue 
of  Pan,  of  a  size  to  suit  the  cavity,  which  exactly  corresponds 
with  the  description  of  the  antient  image  in  the  Grotto, 
bearing  a  trophy  upon  its  head10;  for  the  iron  cramp,  by 
which  this  burden  was  sustained  and  connected  with  the  mass 
of  marble  used  for  the  lower  part  of  the  figure,  yet  remains. 
We  saw  this  statue  upon  the  spot  where  it  was  discovered ; 
and  we  removed  it  to  the  University  of  Cambridge, 
where   it   is  now    placed,    with  the  other   Greek  Marbles, 

in 


(8)  K|0.  ''Aicove   TOivvv'   olaQa  K.£Kpo7ria<;  TrtTpar,  j 

TJpdfrfioppov  dvrpov,  dV  MctKpd<;   KtKkijOKdfiev. 
Up.  Qic,  cvOa  Havoc  dhvTa,  teal  (iafiol  irfKac. 
"  Audi  igitur:   novisti  Cecropias  rupes, 

Septentrionale  in  iis  antrum,  quas  Macras  vocamus?" 
<e  Scio,  ubi  est  sacellum  Panis  et  ara  prope." 

Euripid.  in  Ion.  936.  p.  334.     Edit.  Barnes.  Cantab.  16Q4. 

(9)  Kat  to  dtr  tKtivov,  rrjv  viro  rrj  dtcpoTroXti  <T7r>j\vyya  ravrrjv  aVoXfi/jo^evoc,  o'ikh 
piKpov  v7ro  tov  HtXacyiKov,  k.  t.  X.  Luc'iani  Bis  Accusatus,  torn.  VII.  p.OO.  Bipont.  1790. 

(10)  Lucian.  Deorum  Dialogi,  xxii.  3.  Panis  et  Mercurii.  Bipont.  179O. 


■■■Hi  HSU 


480 


CHAP.  XII. 


ATHENS; 

in  the  Vestibule  of  the  Public  Library1.  The  drapery  afforded 

by  the  spoils  of  a  goat  thrown  over  the  figure  is  executed 

in  the  very  antient  style  of  sculpture  called  Graeco-Etruscan ; 

and  there  is  great  reason  to  believe  that  this  is   the  identical 

statue  alluded  to  by  Lucian,  as  before  cited.     Not  far  from 

the  same  place  there  was  also  found  the  torso  of  a  small 

marble  statue  of  Apollo,   of  a  more   diminutive   size  than 

that  of  Pan,  but  executed   in  a  style  of  sculpture  equal  to 

any  thing  produced  in  the  most  splendid  rera  of  the  art.     This 

we  also  brought  to  England.     There  is  certainly  something 

singular  in    such   an    association   so   near   to   the  Adytum, 

said  to   be   tenanted    by  these  two  Deities.     The   identity 

of  the  Grotto  itself  was  a  theme  of  dispute  among  earlier 

travellers,  who  gave  to  the  subject  more  consideration  than 

perhaps  it  may  seem  to  merit.     Guilletiere  is  the  first  of  the 

moderns  by  whom    it  is   noticed.     He  had   been  with  his 

companions  to  visit  the  small  chapel  called  Panagia  Spilio- 

tissa,  or  our  Lady  of  the  Grotto,  in  a   hollow   of  the    rock 

above  the  Theatre  of  Bacchus,  at  the  south-east  angle  of  the 

Acropolis ;  which  a  Greek  spy,  a  native  of  Candia,  had  pointed 

out  to  the  Venetians  as  a  proper  place  to  serve  as  a  mine  in 

blowing 


(1)  An  engraving  of  this  statue,  from  a  drawing  by  the  celebrated  Flaxman,  was 
made  for  Mr.  Wilkins's  Antiquities  of  Magna  Graecia  (p.  71).  For  a  further  account 
of  it,  see  "  Greek  Marbles,"  p.  Q.  No.  XI.  Camb.  I8O9.  The  author  is  however 
fully  disposed  to  agree  in  the  opinion  which  was  first  suggested  by  Flaxman,  that  the 
burden  upon  the  head  (which,  from  the  appearance  of  the  iron  cramp,  must  have  been 
equal  in  size  to  the  whole  mass  of  the  marble)  was  the  identical  trophy  mentioned  by 
Lucian. 


ATHENS. 

blowing  up  the  citadel4.  Guilletiere  persuaded  himself  that 
the  Panagia  was  nothing  less  than  the  actual  grotto  once 
dedicated  to  Apollo  and  Pan,  which  is  mentioned  by  Euri- 
pides in  two  or  three  of  his  tragedies5.  Seven  years  after 
Guilletiere  s  visit,  the  same  cavern  was  examined  by  Wheler 
and  by  Spon ;  both  of  whom  deny  that  it  was  the  Grotto  of 
Pan,  as  mentioned  by  Guilletiere;  and  they  place  the  real 
Grotto  of  Pan  upon  the  northern  side  of  the  Citadel,  beneath 
the  Pelasgic  Wall,  according  to  the  testimonies  of  Euripides 
and  of  Lucian4.  Chandler  afterwards  confirmed  their  obser- 
vations5: and  in  this  state  the  question  now  rests;  no  one 
having  since  expressed  any  doubt  upon  the  subject. 

As  we  drew  near  to  the  present  entrance  of  the  Citadel, 
we  passed  before  the  facade  of  the  Bropylcea;  the  old 
entrance  to  the  Acropolis  between  its  Doric  pillars  being 
walled  up.  The  Turkish  guard  at  the  gate  suffered  us  to 
pass  as  soon  as  we  mentioned  the  name  of  Lusieri ;  and  one 
of  them  offered  to  conduct  us  to  the  spot  where  he  was 
then  at  work.  We  found  him  in  the  midst  of  the  ruins 
of  the  Erecthdum,  seated  upon  a  heap   of  stones,  with  his 

drawing 


481 


CHAP.  XII. 


(2)  Voyage  d' Athens  par  Sr.  De  la  Guilletiere,  p.  180.  Paris,  1675. 

(3)  "  Des  que  nous  fusmes  sortis  de  Panagia,  j'obligeay  nos  gens  a  tourner  la  teste 
pour  y  regarder  avec  plus  d'attention,  parce  que  je  les  fis  souvenir  que  c'estoit  la  cette 
Grotte  si  celebre  dans  l'antiquite,  &c.  Grace  a  la  durete  du  rocher,  c'est  la  le  plus  entier 
de  tous  les  celebres  monumens  qui  nous  sont  restez  de  l'ancienne  Athenes.  Euripide 
a  parle  de  cet  autre,  en  deux  ou  trois  endroits  de  ses  trajedies."  Hid.  p.  1 79. 

(4)  Euripid.  in  Ion.  vv.  17,501,936.  Lucian,  as  before  cited.  See  Wheler's  Journey 
into  Greece,  p.  369.  Lond.  1082.  Also  Voyage  par  Jacob  Spon,  torn.  II.  p.  97.  d,  la 
Haye,  1724. 

(5)  Chandler's  Travels  in  Greece,  p.  59.  Oxford,  \77Q. 

VOL.  III.  3  Q 


482 


ATHENS. 


:IL  drawing  implements  before  him,  equally  surprised  and 
delighted  to  see  us  once  more,  and  in  such  a  place.  It 
happened  that  the  very  pencil  which  he  was  then  using  was 
one  of  several,  made  by  Middleton,  which  the  author  had 
conveyed  for  him  from  England  to  Naples  many  years  before. 
He  had  only  two  remaining :  and  he  considered  them  of  so 
much  importance  to  the  perfection  of  his  designs,  that  he 
would  willingly  have  purchased  more  at  an  equal  weight  of 
gold ;  using  them  only  in  tracing  the  outline,  and  as 
sparingly  as  possible.  The  best  illustration  of  his  remark 
was  in  a  sight  of  the  outlines  he  had  then  finished.  It  might 
have  been  said  of  the  time  he  had  spent  in  Athens,  as  of 
Apelles,  "  Nulla  dies  sine  lined  :  but  such  was  the  extraor- 
dinary skill  and  application  shewn  in  the  designs  he  was  then 
completing,  that  every  grace  and  beauty  of  the  sculpture, 
every  fair  and  exquisite  proportion,  every  trace  of  the 
injuries  which  time  had  effected  upon  the  building,  every 
vein  in  the  marble,  were  visible  in  the  drawing ;  and  in 
such  perfection,  that  even  the  nature  and  qualities  of  the 
stone  itself  might  be  recognised  in  the  contour1.  He  would 
not  hear  of  our  descending  again  from  the  Acropolis  before 

the 


(l)  Whoever  may  hereafter  be  the  possessor  of  these  Drawings,  will  have  in  the  mere 
outlines  (for  it  is  impossible  this  artist  can  ever  finish  the  collection  he  has  made)  a  repre- 
sentation of  the  antiquities  and  beautiful  scenery  of  Greece,  inferior  to  nothing  but  the 
actual  sight  of  them.  Hitherto  no  Maecenas  has  dignified  himself  by  any  thing  deserving 
the  title  of  a  patron  of  such  excellence.  Many  have  bought  his  designs  when  he  could 
be  induced  to  part  with  them,  by  which  means  he  has  barely  obtained  subsistence  ;  and 
he  is  too  passionately  attached  to  the  sources  which  Athens  has  atForded  to  his  genius, 
to  abandon  Greece,  even  for  the  neglect  which,  in  his  letters  to  the  author,  he  complains 
of  having  there  experienced. 


ATHENS. 


483 


the  evening :  but  gave  us  a  recommendation  to  the  house 
of  a  widow,  sister  of  the  late  English  Consul,  where  he 
said  we  might  be  comfortably  lodged;  and  to  which  he 
promised  to  conduct  us,  after  dining  with  him  and  the 
Disdar  or  Governor  of  the  citadel,  in  the  midst  of  the 
splendid  remains  of  architecture  and  sculpture  by  which  we 
were  surrounded.  He  became  our  guide  to  all  the  different 
buildings;  and  began  by  shewing  us  the  Parthenon.  Some 
workmen,  employed  under  his  direction  for  the  British 
Ambassador,  were  then  engaged  in  making  preparation,  by 
means  of  ropes  and  pulleys,  for  taking  down  the  metopes, 
where  the  sculpture  remained  the  most  perfect.  The 
Disdar  himself  came  to  view  the  work,  but  with  evident 
marks  of  dissatisfaction  ;  and  Lusieri  told  us  that  it  was  with 
great  difficulty  he  could  accomplish  this  part  of  his  under- 
taking, from  the  attachment  the  Turks  entertained  towards 
a  building  which  they  had  been  accustomed  to  regard  with 
religious  veneration,  and  had  converted  into  a  mosque. 
We  confessed  that  we  participated  the  Mahometan  feeling 
in  this  instance,  and  would  gladly  see  an  order  enforced  to 
preserve  rather  than  to  destroy  such  a  glorious  edifice. 
After  a  short  time  spent  in  examining  the  several  parts  of 
the  temple,  one  of  the  workmen  came  to  inform  Don  Battista 
that  they  were  then  going  to  lower  one  of  the  metopes. 
We  saw  this  fine  piece  of  sculpture  raised  from  its  station 
between  the  triglyphs :  but  the  workmen  endeavouring  to 
give  it  a  position  adapted  to  the  projected  line  of  descent, 
a  part  of  the  adjoining  masonry  was  loosened  by  the 
machinery;   and  down  came  the  fine  masses  of  Pentelican 

marble, 


CHAP.  XII. 


Spoliation 
of  the 
Temples. 


nasm 


484 


ATHENS. 


marble,  scattering  their  white  fragments  with  thundering 
noise  among  the  ruins.  The  Disdar,  seeing  this,  could  no 
longer  restrain  his  emotions ;  but  actually  took  his  pipe  from 
his  mouth,  and,  letting  fall  a  tear,  said  in  a  most  emphatical 
tone  of  voice,  "TsXo?!"  positively  declaring  that  nothing 
should  induce  him  to  consent  to  any  further  dilapidation  of 
the  building'.  Looking  up,  we  saw  with  regret  the  gap  that 
had  been  made;  which  all  the  ambassadors  of  the  earth,  with 
all  the  sovereigns  they  represent,  aided  by  every  resource  that 
wealth  and  talent  can  now  bestow,  will  never  again  repair. 
As  to  our  friend   Lusieri,  it  is  hardly  necessary  to  exculpate 

him: 


(1)  This  man  was,  however,  poor,  and  had  a  family  to  support ;  consequently  he  was 
unable  to  withstand  the  temptations  which  a  little  money,  accompanied  by  splendid 
promises,  offered  to  the  necessities  of  his  situation.  So  far  from  adhering  to  his  resolution 
he  was  afterwards  gradually  prevailed  upon  to  allow  all  the  finest  pieces  of  sculpture 
belonging  to  the  Parthenon  to  betaken  down}  and  succeeding  tiavellers  speak  with 
concern  of  the  injuries  the  building  has  sustained,  exclusively  of  the  loss  caused  by  the 
removal  of  the  metopes.  One  example  of  this  nature  may  be  mentioned  j  which,  while 
it  shews  the  havoc  that  has  been  carried  on,  will  also  prove  the  want  of  taste  and  utter 
barbarism  of  the  undertaking.  In  one  of  the  angles  of  the  pediment  which  was  over 
the  eastern  facade  of  the  temple,  there  was  a  horse's  head,  supposed  to  be  intended 
for  the  horse  of  Neptune  issuing  from  the  earth,  when  struck  by  his  trident,  during 
his  altercation  with  Minerva  for  the  possession  of  Attica.  The  head  of  this  animal  had  been 
so  judiciously  placed  by  Phidias,  that,  to  a  spectator  below,  it  seemed  to  be  rising  from 
an  abyss,  foaming,  and  struggling  to  burst  from  its  confined  situation,  with  a  degree  of 
energy  suited  to  the  greatness  and  dignity  of  its  character.  All  the  perspective  of  the 
sculpture  (if  such  an  expression  be  admissible),  and  certainly  all  the  harmony  and  fitness 
of  its  proportions,  and  all  the  effect  of  attitude  and  force  of  composition,  depended  upon 
the  work  being  viewed  precisely  at  the  distance  in  which  Phidias  designed  that  it  should 
be  seen.  Its  removal,  therefore,  from  its  situation  amounted  to  nothing  less  than  its 
destruction: — take  it  down,  and  all  the  aim  of  the  sculptor  is  instantly  frustrated  ! 
Could  any  one  believe  that  this  was  actually  done  ?  and  that  it  was  done,  too,  in  the 
name  of  a  nation  vain  of  its  distinction  in  the  Fine  Arts  ?  Nay  more,  that  in  doing  this, 
finding  the  removal  of  this  piece  of  sculpture  could  not  be  effected  without  destroying 

the 


I^J^m^^^mnMt, 


ATHENS.  4g>5 

him;  because  he  could  only  obey  the  orders  he  had  received,      chap.xii. 

and  this  he  did  with  manifest  reluctance:  neither  was  there 

a  workman  employed  in  the  undertaking,  among  the  artists 

sent  out  of  Rome  for  that  purpose,   who  did  not  express  his 

concern  that  such   havoc  should  be  deemed  necessary,  after 

moulds  and  casts  had  been  already  made  of  all  the  sculpture 

which    it   was    designed   to    remove.      The   author    would 

gladly  have  avoided   the  introduction   of  this  subject:    but 

as  he  was  an  eye-witness  of  these  proceedings,  it  constitutes 

a  part  of  the  duties  he  has  to  fulfil  in  giving  the  narrative 

of  his  travels;  and  if  his  work  be  destined  to  survive  him, 

it 

the  entire  angle  of  the  pediment,  the  work  of  destruction  was  allowed  to  proceed  even 
to  this  extent  also  ?  Thus  the  form  of  the  temple  has  sustained  a  greater  injury  than  it 
had  already  experienced  from  the  Venetian  artillery ;  and  the  horse's  head  has  been 
removed,  to  be  placed  where  it  exhibits  nothing  of  its  original  effect:  like  the  acqui- 
sition said  to  have  been  made  by  another  Nobleman,  who,  being  delighted  at  a  puppet- 
show,  bought  punch,  and  was  chagrined  to  find  when  he  carried  him  home  that  the 
figure  had  lost  all  its  humour.  Yet  we  are  seriously  told,  (Memorandum,  p.  8.  Lond. 
1811.)  that  this  mischief  has  been  done  with  a  view  to  "  rescue  these  specimens  of 
sculpture  from  impending  ruin:"  then,  why  not  exert  the  same  influence  which  was 
employed  in  removing  them,  to  induce  the  Turkish  Government  to  adopt  measures  for 
their  effectual  preservation!  Ah  no!  a  wiser  scheme  was  in  agitation:  it  was  at  first 
attempted  to  have  them  all  mended  by  some  modern  artist !  !  !  (See  Memor.  p.  39.) 
From  this  calamity  they  were  rescued  by  the  good  taste  of  Canova.  (Ibid.)  The  sight  of 
them  (Memor.  p.  42.)  "  so  rivetted  and  agitated  the  feelings  of  Mrs.  Siddons,  the  pride 
of  theatrical  representation,  as  actually  to  draw  tears  from  her  eyes."  And  who  marvels 
at  such  emotion  ? 

"  Cold  is  the  heart,  fair  Greece  !  that  looks  on  thee, 

Nor  feels  as  lovers  o'er  the  dust  they  lov'd ; 

Dull  is  the  eye  that  will  not  weep  to  see 

Thy  walls  defae'd,  thy  mouldering  shrines  reruov'd 

By  British  hands,  which  it  had  best  hehov'd 

To  guard  those  relics — ne'er  to  he  fstor'd. 

Curst  be  the  hour  when  from  their  isle  they  rov'd, 

And  once  again  thy  ijapless  bosom  gor'd, 
And  snatch'd  thy  shrinking  Gods  to  northern  climes  abhorr'd." 

Childe  Harold's  Pilgrimage,  Canto  II.  15.     Lond.  1812. 


■J      tSvrv* 


486 


CHAP.  XII. 


Comparison 
between  the 
Grecian 
and  Roman 
Buildings. 


ATHENS. 

it  shall  not,  by  its  taciturnity  with  regard  to  the  spoliation 
of  the  Athenian  temples,  seem  to  indicate  any  thing  like 
an  approval  of  the  measures  which  have  tended  so  materially 
towards  their  destruction. 

To  a  person  who  has  seen  the  ruins  of  Rome,  the  first 
suggestion  made  by  a  sight  of  the  buildings  in  the  Acropolis 
is  that  of  the  infinite  superiority  of  the  Athenian  architecture. 
It  possesses  the  greatness  and  majesty  of  the  Egyptian,  or 
of  the  antient  Etruscan  style,  with  all  the  elegant  propor- 
tions, the  rich  ornaments,  and  the  discriminating  taste  of  the 
most  splendid  aera  of  the  Arts.  "Accustomed  as  we  were," 
said  Stuart1,  in  speaking  of  the  Parthenon,  "  to  the  antient 
and  modern  magnificence  of  Rome,  and,  by  what  we  had 
heard  and  read,  impressed  with  an  advantageous  opinion  of 
what  we  were  come  to  see,  we  found  the  image  our  fancy 
had  preconceived  greatly  inferior  to  the  real  object."  Yet 
Wheler,  who  upon  such  a  subject  cannot  be  considered 
as  of  equal  authority  wi\h  Stuart,  says  of  the  monuments 
of  antiquity  yet  remaining  in  Athens2,  "  I  dare  prefer  them 
before  any  place  in  the  world,  Rome  only  excepted."  If 
there  be  existing  upon  the  earth  any  buildings  which  may 
fairly  be  brought  into  a  comparison  with  the  Parthenon, 
they  are  the  temples  of  P  cesium  in  Lucania;  but  even 
these  can  only  be  so  with  reference  to  their  superior 
antiquity,  to  their  severe  simplicity,  and  to  the  perfection 
of  design  visible  in  their  structure:  in  graceful  proportion, 

in 


(1)  Antiquities  of  Athens,  vol.  II.  p.  9.  Lond.  \JS" . 

(2)  Journey  into  Greece,  BookV.  p.  357.  Lond.  \682. 


ATHENS. 

in  magnificence,  in  costliness  of  materials,  in  splendid  deco- 
ration, and  in  every  thing  that  may  denote  the  highest  degree 
of  improvement  to  which  the  Doric   style   of  architecture 
ever  attained,  they  are  vastly  inferior.     This  is  at  least  the 
author's    opinion.     Lusieri,  however,   entertained    different 
sentiments;   and  his  authority  upon  such  a  subject  is   much 
mote  worthy  of  the  reader's  attention.      Lusieri  had  resided 
at  Pcestum;  and  had  dedicated  to  those  buildings  a  degree 
of  study  which,  added  to  his  knowledge  of  the  arts,  well 
qualified  him   to  decide   upon   a   question  as  to  the  relative 
merits  of  the  Athenian  and  Posidonian  specimens  of  Grecian 
architecture.     His  opinion  is  very  remarkable:  he  considered 
the  temples  of  Pcestum  as  examples   of  a  purer  style;   or, 
as  he  termed  it,  of  a  more  correct  and  classical  taste.  "  In 
those   buildings,"  said  he,   "  the  Doric  order  attained  a  pre- 
eminence beyond  which  it  never  passed;  not  a  stone  has 
been  there  placed  without  some  evident  and  important  design ; 
every  part  of  the  structure  bespeaks  its  own  essential  utility." 
Pie  held  the  same  opinion  with  regard  to  the  Temple  of  the 
Panhellenian   Jupiter  in  the  Island   of  iEgina.     "  Of  such 
a  nature,"   he  added,   "  were  works  in  architecture,  when 
the  whole  aim  of  the  architect  was  to  unite  grandeur  with 
utility;   the  former  being  founded  on  the  latter.     All  then 
was    truth,    strength,    and   sublimity."      According    to    his 
opinion,  a  different  character  is  applicable  to  the  Parthenon. 
In  this  building,  the  Doric,  having  attained  its  due  propor- 
tions,  was  supposed  to   be  displayed  with  every  perfection 
which  the  arts  of  Greece   could  accomplish;    but  this  has 
not  been  the  case.     In  all  that  relates  to  harmony,  elegance, 

execution, 


Athenian, 
Posidonian, 
and  sEginetan 
Architecture. 


488 


ATHENS. 


chap.  xir.     execution,    beauty,    proportion,    the    Parthenon    stands    :a 
chef-d'oeuvre;    every  portion  of  the  sculpture  by  which  iit 
is  so  highly  decorated  has  all  the   delicacy  of  a. cameo:  buit 
still  there  are  faults  in  the  building,  and  proofs  of  negligence?, 
which  are  not  found  in  the  temples  of  Paestum;  and  thes«e 
Lusieri   considered   as    striking    evidences    of   the   state    o>f 
public  morals  in  the  gay  days  of  Pericles;  for  he  said  it  wats 
evident  that  he  had  been  cheated  by  his  workmen.  He  pointe<d 
those  defects  out  to  us.     Above  the  architrave,   behind  the 
metopes  and  triglyphs,  there  are  vacuities  sufficiently  spacious 
for  a  person  to  walk  in,  which,  in  some  instances,  and  perhap>s 
in  all,  had  been  carelessly  filled  with  loose  materials;  buit 
at  Paestum  the  same  parts  of  the  work  are  of  solid  stone, 
particularly  near  the  angles  of  those  temples;  which  consist 
of  such  prodigious  masses,  that  it  is  inconceivable  how  they 
were  raised  and  adjusted.     In  other  parts  of  the  Parthenon 
there  are  also  superfluities;  which  are  unknown  in  the  build- 
ings of  Paestum,  where  nothing  superfluous  can  be  discerned. 
These  remarks,  as  they  were  made  by  an  intelligent  artist, 
who,  with  leisure  and  abilities   for  the  inquiry,   has  paid 
more  attention  to  the   subject  than  any  one  else,  we  have 
been  careful  to  preserve.     For  our  own   parts,  in  viewing 
the  Parthenon,   we  were   so  much  affected  by  its   solemn 
appearance,  and  so  much  dazzled  by  its  general  splendor  and 
magnificence,  that  we  should  never  have  ventured  to  this 
critical  examination  of  the  parts   composing   it ;  nor  could 
we  be  persuaded   entirely  to   acquiesce  in  the  opinion  thus 
founded  upon  a  comparison  of  it  with  the  Posidoman  and 
JEginetan   buildings.     Often  as  it  has  been  described,  the 

spectator 


fjmmw.jwwyrr******--.. 


ATHENS. 


489 


spectator  who  for  the  first  time  approaches  it  finds  that  chap. xir. 
nothing  he  has  read  can  give  any  idea  of  the  effect  produced 
in  beholding  it.  Yet  was  there  once  found  in  England 
a  writer  of  eminence  in  his  profession  as  an  architect1, 
who  recommended  the  study  of  Roman  antiquities  in  Italy 
and  in  France,  in  preference  to  the  remains  of  Grecian  archi- 
tecture in  Athens;  and  who,  deciding  upon  the  works  of 
Phidias,  Callicratcs,  and  Ictinus,  without  ever  having  had 
an  opportunity  to  examine  them  but  in  books  and  prints, 
ventured  to  maintain  that  the  Parthenon  was  not  so  consi- 
derable an  edifice  as  the  Church  of  St.  Martin  in  London; 
thereby  affording  a  remarkable  proof  of  the  impossibility 
of  obtaining  from  any  written  description,  or  even  from 
engraved  representation,  any  adequate  idea  of  the  buildings 
of  Antient  Greece  ;  compared  with  whose  stupendous  works, 
the  puny  efforts  of  modern  art  are  but  as  the  labours  of 
children. 

By  means  of  the  scaffolds  raised  against  the  Parthenon 
for  the  Formatori  and  for  other  artists  who  were  engaged 
in  moulding  and  making  drawings  from  the  sculpture  upon 
the  frieze,  we  were  enabled  to  ascend  to  all  the  higher 
parts  of  the  building,  and  to  examine  with  the  minutest 
attention  all  the  ornaments  of  this  glorious  edifice.  The 
sculpture  on  the  metopes,  representing  the  Combats  of  the 
Centaurs   and   Lapithoe,     is  in   such    bold   relief,    that   the 

figures 


(l)  See  a  Treatise  on  the  Decorative  Part  of  Civil  Architecture,  by  Sir  William 
Chambers,  pp.  19,  21,  &c.  Thud  edition.  Lond.  1/9 1. — Also  Reveley's  Reply,  in  his 
Pref.  to  the  Third  Volume  of  Stuart's  Antiq.  of  Athens,  p.  10.   Lond.  \7Q4. 

VOL.  III.  3    R 


.-..-■ 


490 


CHAP.  XII. 


Cause  of  the 
Injuries  sus- 
tained in  the 
Sculpture  of 
the  Part /tenon. 


ATHENS. 

figures  are  all  of  them  statues :  upon  coming  close  to  the 
work,  and  examining  the  state  of  the  marble,  it  was  evident 
that  a  very  principal  cause  of  the  injuries  it  had  sustained 
was  owing,  not,  as  it  has  been  asserted',  to  ''the  zeal  of 
the  early  Christians*,  the  barbarism  of  the  Turks,  or  to  the 
explosions  which  took  place  when  the  temple  was  used  as 
a  powder  magazine,"  but  to  the  decomposition  of  the 
stone  itself,  in  consequence  of  the  action  of  the  atmosphere 
during  so  many  ages.  The  mischief  has  originated  in  the 
sort  of  marble  which  was  used  for  the  building ;  this,  not 
being  entirely  homogeneous,  is  characterized  by  a  tendency 
to  exfoliate  when  long  exposed  to  air  and  moisture.  Any 
person  may  be  convinced  of  this,  who  will  examine  the 
specimens  of  sculpture  which  have  been  since  removed  to 
this  country  from  the  Parthenon;  although  being  expressly 
selected  as  the  most  perfect  examples  of  the  work,  they  do  not 
exhibit  this  decomposition  so  visibly  as  the  remaining  parts 
of  the  building.     But  throughout  the  metopes,  and  in  all  the 

exquisite 

(1)  Memorandum  on  the  Subject  of  the  Earl  of  Elgin's  Pursuits  in  Greece,  p.  11. 
Lond.  1811. 

(2)  In  the  little  Tract  which  the  author  published  in  1803,  containing  the  "Testi- 
monies of  different  Authors  respecting  the  Statue  of  Ceres,"  p.  4.  and  also  in  his  Account 
of  the  "  Cambridge  Marbles  "  published  in  1 800,  p.  15.  he  attributed  to  "  the  zeal  of  the 
early  Christians"  a  part  of  the  injury  done  to  the  Temple  atEleusis.  He  has  since  been 
much  amused  by  finding  the  same  expression  adopted  by  the  writer  of  the  Earl  of 
Elgin's  "Memorandum"  above  cited,  where  the  "  early  Christians"  are  made  also  respon- 
sible for  the  injury  done  to  the  metopes  of  the  Parthenon  (See  Memorandum,  p.  ll). 
Now,  abating  the  long  arms,  or  the  long  ladders,  which  the  said  Christians  must  have 
called  into  action  to  reach  the  entablature  of  this  building,  it  does  not  appear  highly 
probable  that  the  very  people  who  consecrated  the  Parthenon,  as  Wheler  says,  "  to  serve 
God  in"  would  take  so  much  pains  to  disfigure  and  to  destroy  their  place  of  worship. 


ATHENS.  491 

exquisite  sculpture  of  the  frieze  which  surrounded  the  outside      chap,  xu 

of  the  cell  of  the  temple,  this  may  be  observed :  a  person 

putting  his  hand  behind  the  figures,  or  upon  the  plinth,  where 

the  parts  have  been  less  exposed  to  the  atmosphere,  may 

perceive  the  polished  surface,  as  it  was  left  when  the  work 

was  finished,  still  preserving  a  high  degree  of  smoothness  ; 

but   the  exterior  parts  of  the  stone  have  been  altered   by 

weathering;  and  where  veins  of  schistus  in  the  marble  have 

been   affected    by  decomposition,    considerable   parts   have 

fallen    off.      Yet    to    operate   an   effect    of   this   nature    it 

required  the  lapse  of  twenty-three  centuries ;  and  we  may 

fairly  conclude  that  what  remained  had  undergone  sufficient 

trial    to    have    continued    unaltered   for    a    aeries    of   ages : 

at  all   events   it  would   have  been   safe  from   the   injuries 

to    which    the    finest   parts    of    the   sculpture   have   been 

since   so  lamentably  exposed,  when   they  were   torn  from 

the  temple,  either  to  be  swallowed  by  the  waves  of  Cythera, 

or  to  moulder  under   the  influence  of  a  climate  peculiarly 

qualified  to  assist  their  progress  towards  destruction3. 

It  is  with  reluctance  that  the  author  omits  a  description  of 
the  whole  of  the  sculpture  upon  the  frieze  beneath  the  ceiling 
of  the  Peripterus\     To  an  artist,  the  boldness  and  masterly    splendid 

Represeuta- 

execution  of  the  metopes  may  be  more  interesting;  but  a    tionofthe 

Panathenaa. 

sight  of  the  splendid   solemnity  of  the  whole  Panathenaic 
Festival,  represented  by  the  best  artists  of  Antient  Greece, 

in 


(3)  "  The  Ambassador  has  carried  off  every  rich  morsel  of  sculpture  that  was  to 
be  found  in  the  Parthenon:  so  that  he,  in  future,  who  wishes  to  see  Athens,  must  make 
a  journey  to  Scotland."     Colonel  Squire's  MS.  Correspondence. 

(4)  For  a  full  account  of  it,  see  Stuart's  Athens,  vol.  II.  p.  12.    Lond.  17&7- 


Description 
of  the  Work. 


ATHENS. 

in  one  continued  picture  above  three  feet  in  height,  and 
originally   six    hundred    feet    in    length,   of  which    a   very 
considerable  portion  now  remains,  is  alone  worth  a  journey 
to  .Athens;  nor  will  any  scholar  deem   the  undertaking  to 
be    unprofitable    who    should  visit   Greece    for   this    alone. 
The  whole  population  of  the  antient  city,  animated  by  the 
bustle  and  business  of  the  Panathencea,  seems  to  be  exhi- 
bited by   this   admirable  work ;   persons  of  either  sex  and 
of  every  age,  priests,  charioteers,  horsemen,  cattle,  victors, 
youths,    maidens,    victims,     gods,    and   heroes,     all    enter 
into    the    procession  ;     every    countenance    expresses    the 
earnestness    and    greatness    of    the    occasion ;    and    every 
magnificence    of    costume,     and   varied    disposition    of    the 
subject,    add    to    the   effect    of    the    representation.      It    is 
somewhere  said  of  Phidias,  that,  as  a  sculptor,  he  particularly 
excelled  in  his  statues  of  horses :  perhaps  some  notion  may 
be  conceived  of  the  magic   of  his  art,   when   it  is  related, 
that    of  a    hundred    horses    introduced    by    him    into     the 
Panathenaic  pomp,  there  are  not  two,  either  in  the  same 
attitude,     or    which    are    not    characterized    by    a    marked 
difference  of  expression.     Some  circumstances  were   made 
known  to   us    by   our  being    able    to  examine  the  marble 
closely,  which   we   did  not  know   before;    although   they 
had  been  alluded  to  by   Stuart1 :  the  bridles  of  the  horses 
were    originally  of  gilded    bronze ;    this    we   perceived   by 
the    holes    left    in    the    stone    for   affixing   the   metal,    and 
also  by  little  bits  of  the  bronze  itself,  which  the  Formatori 

had 

(1)  Antkj.  of  Athens,  vol.  II.  p.  14.    Lond.  1/87. 


ATHENS. 


493 


had  found  in  the  work.  We  should  hardly  have  believed 
that  such  an  article  of  dress  as  the  leathern  boot,  witth  its 
top  turned  over  the  calf  of  the  leg,  was  worn  by  the  amtieiit 
Athenian,  as  well  as  by  English  cavaliers,  if  we  had  not  seen 
the  Cothurnus  so  represented  upon  the  figures  of  some  of 
the  young  horsemen  in  this  procession  ;  and  as  coxcomically 
adapted  to  the  shape  of  the  leg,  and  set  off  with  as 
great  nicety,  as  for  a  Newmarket  jockey.  Another  singular 
piece  of  foppery,  worn  also  by  the  Athenian  beaux, 
consisted  of  a  light  gipsey  hat,  perhaps  made  of  straw,  tied 
with  ribbands  under  the  chin.  We  noticed  the  figure  of  a 
young  horseman  with  one  of  these  hats,  who  seemed  from 
his  appearance  in  the  procession  to  be  a  person  of  distinction, 
curbing  a  galloping  steed ;  but  the  wind  had  blown  the  hat 
from  his  head,  and,  being  held  by  the  ribbands  about  the  neck, 
it  hung  behind  the  rider,  as  if  floating  in  the  air  :  the  sculptor 
having  evidently  availed  himself  of  this  representation  to 
heighten  the  appearance  of  action  in  the  groupe,  and 
nothing  could  be  more  spirited.  That  this  kind  of  hat  was 
considered  as  a  mark  of  distinction,  seems  to  be  probable, 
from  the  circumstance  of  its  being  still  worn  by  the  Patriarchs 
of  the  Greek  church2:  it  appears  upon  the  head  of  the  Patri- 
arch of  Constantinople,  as  he  is  represented  by  a  wood-cut 
in  the  work  of  Martin  Crusius2;  but  perhaps  in  the  latter 
instance  it  should  rather  be  considered  as  the  petasus4,  than 

the 


CHAP.  XII. 


Of  the 

Cothurnus; 


and  Petasus, 
or  P ileus. 


(2)  See  Part  I.  of  these  Travels,  p.  150.    Second  Edit.  Broxlourn,  1811. 

(3)  Turco-Grsecia,  p.  106.    Basil.  1583. 

(4)  Vid.  Lipsius  de  Amphitheat.  c.  IQ. 


BMHBgB       —  1Mb 


494 


CHAP.  XU. 


ATHENS. 

the  pileus.    Also,  by  attending  to  its  appearance  upon  Grecian 
vases  of  terra  cotta,  we  may  perceive  that  it  was  worn  by  no 
common  individuals.     A  beautiful  figure   of  Actceon,  with 
this  kind  of  hat,  is  preserved  upon  one  of  the  Greek  Marbles 
in  the  University  Library  at  Cambridge ' :  and  another  repre- 
sentation of  the  same  person,  similarly  attired,  appears  upon 
the  Neapolitan  Vase",  where  there  is  also  an  effigy  of  Castor 
with  the  pileus  upon  his  head ;   for  Actceon,    in  both   in- 
stances, is  figured  with  his  head  uncovered,  the  hat  hanging, 
by  its  ribbands,  in  graceful  negligence  behind  his  shoulders; 
and   after  this   manner  it  is  more  frequently  represented. 
Among    the   Romans,    who    rarely  used   any  covering  for 
the  head,   the  pileus,  when   worn,    was   the  distinguishing 
badge  of  freed-men ;  and  the  use  of  it,  as  a  privilege,  was 
granted  to  persons  who  had  obtained  their  liberty.     In  the 
Heroic  age  no  kind  of  hats  were  worn,  if  we  may  judge  from 
the  Poems  of  Homer,   where  there  is  no   allusion   to   any 
such  article  of  apparel.     Indeed,  Eustathius  affirms  that  the 
Romans  derived  their  custom  of  going  bareheaded  from  the 
Greeks':  hence  it  may  almost  be  proved,  that  in  this  bas- 
relief,    (as  nothing  was  ever  introduced   by  antient   artists 
into  their  designs  without  some  symbolic  allusion,)  the  hat 

was 


(l)  This  marble  represents  the  body  of  an  Amphora,  about  three  feet  in  length, 
from  the  shore  of  the  Propontis.  It  was  presented  to  the  University  by  Mr.  Spencer 
Smith,  late  Minister  Plenipotentiary  at  the  Ottoman  Porte,  and  brother  of  Sir  Sidney 
Smith.     The  sculpture  is  in  low  relief,  but  it  is  very  antient. 

(2)  Now  in  the  possession  of  Mr.  Edwards  of  Harrow,  late  bookseller  in  Pall  Mall, 
London. 

(3)  Vid.  Eustath.  in  Homer.  Odyss,  lib.  i. 


■■*■ 


ATHENS. 


495 


Statues. 


was  intended  as  a  distinguishing  token  ;  and  its  appearance     chap.  xii. 
is  the  more  interesting,  because  it  has  been  the  opinion  of 
antiquaries  that  this  frieze   contained  the  portraits   of  the 
leading  characters  at  Athens,  during  the  Peloponnesian  war; 
particularly  of  Pericles,  Phidias,  Socrates,  and  Alcibiades4. 

We  saw  with  the  same  advantage  all  the  remaining 
sculpture  of  this  stately  edifice ;  visiting  it  often  afterwards 
to  examine  the  different  parts   more  leisurely.     Among  the    Practice  of 

gilding  and 

remains  of  the  sculpture  in  the  western  pediment,  which  is  painting  the 
in  a  very  ruined  state,  the  artists  had  observed,  not  only 
the  traces  of  paint  with  which  the  statues  had  antiently 
been  covered,  but  also  of  gilding.  It  was  usual  to  gild 
the  hair  of  the  statues  which  represented  Deities,  and  some- 
times other  parts  of  the  bodies.  This  practice  remained  to  a 
very  late  period  of  the  art,  as  it  has  been  already  shewn  in  a 
former  part  of  this  work5.  During  an  excavation  which 
Lusieri  had  carried  on  here,  he  had  discovered  the  antient 
pavement,  in  its  entire  state;  consisting  of  the  same  white 
marble  as  the  temple.  We  found  an  Inscription,  which 
proves  how  antient  the  custom  was  of  pronouncing  the 
Greek  B  like  the  Roman  V,  by  the  manner  of  writing  a 
name  which  must   have  been  their  Victorinus:   "  Phaneas, 

HlEROPHANT,   SON  OF  VlCTORLNUS." 


4>ANeiACTHCBIKT0UPGI 
N  O  Yl  6P04>  ANTH  C 


Among 


(4)  See   Memorandum  on  the  subject  of  the  Earl  of  Elgin's  Pursuits  in  Greece, 
p.  12.    Lond.  181J. 

(5)  See  Chap.  IV.  p.  148.  of  this  Section. 


►>-»<»  -*<*-"("?" 


496 


CHAP.  XII. 


Marbles  usd& 
in  the 
Acropolis. 


Singular 
Construction 
of  the 
Ereethium. 


ATHENS. 

Among  the  ruins  of  this  and  of  other  buildings  in  the  Acro- 
polis, we  noticed  the  fragments  of  almost  every  kind  of 
marble,  and  of  the  most  beautiful  varieties  of  breccia ;  but 
particularly  of  the  verd- antique,  entire  columns  of  which  had 
once  adorned  the  Erccthcum  :  under  a  heap  of  loose  stones 
and  rubbish  in  the  centre  of  it,  we  discovered  the  broken 
shaft  of  a  verd-antique  pillar  of  uncommon  beauty :  this  we 
purchased  of  the  Disdar ;  and  having  with  great  difficulty 
removed  it  from  the  Acropolis,  we  sent  it  to  England1.  A 
bluish-grey  limestone  was  also  used  in  some  of  the  works ; 
particularly  in  the  exquisite  ornaments  of  the  Erectile  urn, 
where  the  frieze  of  the  temple  and  of  its  porticoes  are  not  of 
marble,  like  the  rest  of  the  building,  but  of  this  sort  of  slate- 
like limestone  :  the  tympanum  of  the  pediment  is  likewise  of 
the  same  stone;  a  singular  circumstance  truly,  and  requiring 
some  explanation*.  It  resembles  the  limestone  employed  in 
the  walls  of  the  Cella  of  the  Temple  of  Ceres  at  Eleusis,  and 
in  buildings  before  the  use  of  marble  was  known  for  pur- 
poses of  architecture  ;  such,  for  example,  as  the  sort  of  stone 
employed  in  the  Temple  of  Apollo  at  Phigalia5,  and  in  other 
edifices  of  equal  antiquity  :  it  effervesces  briskly  in  acids,  and 

hes 


(1)  It  is  now  in  the  Vestibule  of  the  University  Library  at  Cambridge.  S;e 
"  Greek  Marbles,"  No.  XVII.  p.  39.    Carnl.  I8O9. 

(2)  For  this  fact  the  aufhor  is  indebted  to  Mr.  Wilkins,  author  of  the  Antiquities  :>f 
Magna  Gnecia,  &c. 

(3)  Specimens  of  this  slate-like  limestone  were  brought  to  the  author  for  tie 
Mineralogical  Lecture  at  Cambridge,  from  the  Temple  of  the  Phigalian  Apollo  in  tie 
Morea,  by  Mr.  Walpole.  It  is  also  found  upon  Parnassus,  and  in  other  parts  of  Greece. 
Some  of  the  limestone  of  Parnassus  breaks  with  a  conchoi'dal  fracture,  and  is  had 
enough  to  cut  glass. 


msifi 


ATHENS. 


497 


has  all  the  properties  of  common  compact  limestone  ;  except  CHAP-  xn- 
that  it  is  hard  enough  to  cut  glass,  and  of  course  is  sus- 
ceptible of  a  fine  polish;  exhibiting  a  flat  conchoi'dal  fracture, 
which  is  somewhat  splintery.  We  could  not  discover  a  single 
fragment  of  porphyry ;  which  is  remarkable,  as  this  substance 
was  almost  always  used  by  the  Antients  in  works  of  great 
magnificence.  Among  the  loose  fragments  dispersed  in  the 
Acropolis,  we  found  a  small  piece  of  marble  with  an 
inscription,  but  in  so  imperfect  a  state,  that  it  is  only  worth 
notice  as  a  memorial  of  the  place  where  it  was  found,  and 
in  its  allusion  to  the  Prytanhim,  which  is  the  only  legible 
part  of  it4.     That  the  Prytaneum,  where  the  written  laws    ofthe 

.  Prytantum. 

of  Solon  were  kept  ,  was  not  situated  near  to  the  spot,  but 
in  the  lower  city,  may  be  easily  proved.  Yet  some  have 
believed  that  it  was  in  the  Acropolis ;  owing  to  that 
remarkable  passage  in  Pausanias,  which  sets  at  rest  the 
mistaken  opinion  of  Ptolemy's  importation  of  the  worship 
of  Serapis  into  Egypt ;  Memphis  having  been  the  original 
source  of  this  superstition,  both  for  the  Alexandrians  and 
the  Athenians0.  After  speaking  of  the  Prytandum,  Pausanias 
says7,  "  Hence,  to  those  going  towards  the  lower  parts  of 

the 


(4)  Now  in  the  Vestibule  at  Cambridge.  See  "  Greek  Marbles,"  No.  XXX.  p. 52. 
Camb.  I8O9. 

(5)  IlXi/a-tW  tf  Tipvravuov  tarty,  iv  u>  vofiot  te  ot  2o'\6>voc  elfft  yeyoafifilvoi. 
Pausaniae.,  lib.  i.  c.  IS.  p.  41.     Lips.  l6g6. 

(6)  See  Chap.  VII.  of  this  Section,  p.  281.  Note  (6)  of  this  Volume. 

(7)  ''Eivrevdev  lovtnv  ec  rot  kUtm  ri}<j  ttoXigh;,  ^.apciiri^6<;  effTtv  Itpov,  tv  'Adtjvalot 
■napd  UroXe/xaiov  Qtov  iarjydyoyro.  Aiyvnrioic  6t  itpd  ^apdyrt^og,  iwityavLaTUTOv 
fih  Eoriv  'AXefavSpevaiv,  dpyaiorarov  ce  iv  Mf/i^a.  Pausaniae,  lib.  i.  c.  18.  p.  42. 
Lips.  i6g6. 


VOL.   III. 


3  S 


498 


ATHENS. 


chap.  xn.  fag  clfy}  the  Temple  of  Serapis  presents  itself;  whose  worship 
the  Athenians  received  from  Ptolemy:"  adding,  " Among  the 
Egyptian  fanes  of  this  Deity,  the  most  renowned  indeed  is 
that  of  Alexandria,  but  the  most  antient  that  of  Memphis." 
But,  in  answer  to  this,  it  may  be  observed,  that  the  same 
author  also  ascends  from  the  Prytaneum  along  the  street 
of  the  Tripods,  towards  the  Propylcea\  Moreover,  it  is 
recorded,  that  the  tablets  of  the  laws  which  had  been 
preserved  in  the  Citadel  were  afterwards  removed  to  the 
Prytaneum*;  and  they  were  termed  rug  xdrufav  vo^ovg,  because 
they  were  kept  in   the   loiver  city. 

Ertctteum.  With  regard  to  the  Erectheum,  which  is  situated  at  the 

distance  of  about  a  hundred  and  fifty  feet  to  the  north  of  the 
Parthenon,  it  has  generally  been  described  as  consisting  of 
three  contiguous  temples ;  that  of  Erect heus,  of  Minerva 
Polias,  and  of  Pandrosus.  Stuart  considered  the  eastern  part 
of  the  building  alone  as  being  the  Erectheum;  the  part 
to  the  westward  as  that  of  Minerva;  and  the  adjoining 
edifice  on  the  south  side,  distinguished  by  the  Caryatides 
supporting  the  entablature  and  roof,  as  the  chapel  which 
was  dedicated  to  the  Nymph  Pandrosus3.  This  opinion 
has  been   adopted  by  other  writers4:    but   it   seems  more 

consistent 


(1)  vE(m  It  ohos  dwd  tov  Wpvraveiov  KaXov/itvtj  TpfaroSes.  Pausan.  lib.  i.  c.  20. 
p.  46.    Lips.  \6g&. 

(2)  Jul.  Pollux,  lib.viii.   c.  10.    Amst.  1706. 

(3)  Antiq.  of  Athens,  vol.11,  chap.  2.  p.  16.    Lower.  1787 . 

(4)  ",Near  the  Parthenon  are  three  temples."  (Memorandum  of  the  Earl  of 
Elgin's  Pursuits  in  Greece,  p.  23.  Lond.  1811.)  See  also  Chandler 's  Trav.  in  Grme, 
.chap.  11.  p.  52.    Oxf.  1786.  &c.  &c. 


TEM  PUE    of    I'l RECTI  E  US  .-.i    ATI  I  EHS; 


Published  Slay  ^..  ■•>;.,.  by  T.CndcU  «•  Wfliwies.St,  uui  . 


^A";-,^'S?-ij?  I 


Tim   ^M 


Mmm*» 


ATHENS. 


499 


consistent  with  the  description  and  allusions  to  this  build-    ™i^"_ 
ing  in   the  works  of  antient  authors,  to  suppose  that  the 
whole  structure  was  called  Erectheum,   consisting  only  of 
two  contiguous  temples ;  that   of  Minerva  Potias,  with  its    J£M«  of 
portico  towards   the  east ;    and  that  of  Pandrosus  towards    £*£*""■ 
the  west,   with  its    two   porticoes   standing  by  the   north 
and  south  angles,   the   entrance   to   the  Pandroseum  being 
on  the  northern  side5.     Pausanias6  calls  the  whole  build- 
ing   EPEX0EION,   and    he   decidedly   describes  it,   not  as  of 
a  triple,   but  as  of  a  duple  form7 ;  and  in   the  succeeding 
chapter  he   mentions   the  two  parts  of  which  it   consisted, 
naming  them  the  Temples  of  Pandrosus  and  Minerva6.    The 
sepulchral   origin  of  the  Parthenon,   as  of  all  the  Athenian 
temples,  has  been  already  proved  ;  and  the  same  historian 
who  has  preserved  a  record  of  the  situation  of  the  sepulchre 
of  Cecrops  also   informs  us   that   the  tomb  of  Ericthonius 
existed    in   the    Temple,  of   Minerva   Polias9.     The  Turks 
had    made   a   powder-magazine  of  one    of   the    vestibules 

of 


(5)  See  a  Plan  of  these  buildings  by  Mr.  W.  Wilkins,  author  of  the  Antiquities  of 
Magna  Grnecia,  &c.  as  engraved  for  Mr.  Walpole's  Selections  from  the  MS.  Journals 
of  Travellers  in  the  Levant. 

(6)  "Eort  cc  kcu  ok>ifia  'E(o£^0«ov  KaXovfxevov.  Pausan.  lib.  i.  c.  26.  p.  62. 
Lips.  i6g6. 

(7)  Kdl  ci7r\ovv  yap  iffri  to  okr/pa.       Ibid. 

(8)  Tw  vaa  £e  rrjg  'AOrjvdg  Wavcpovov  vuoc  nvvs^rjc  tart.  Ibid.  c.  27.  p.  64. 
Lips.  1696. 

(9)  'ABrfvtj'Ji  he  iv  dKpnvd\H,  HcKporoi,  wc  fritTiv  ' ' Avrioyog  h  tu>  Ivvdrf  rav 
iaropiav  ri  cal  'F.pucOoviot; ;  01/Vt  iv  tu>  vef  rt;<;  YtoXtdSoc  KEKtjdlvrai.  "  AtheniS 
autem  in  ipsa  pariter  Acropoli,  Cecropis,  ut  Antiochus  Historiarum  nono  scriptum  reli- 
quit.  Quid  porro  Ericthonius?  nonne  in  Poliadis  templo  sepultus  est?"  QkmcnUs 
Alezandrini  Cohortalio  ad  Gentes,  lorn.  I.  p.3g.     Oxon.  1715. 


I  **+^>*^?*t*{*i.ri*P>.-:*^-r)*u~'*' 


;-*.-«.>•« 


ATHENS. 

of  this  building;   so  that  it  was  necessary  to  creep  through 
a  hole  in  the  wall  in  order  to  see  the  finest  specimen  of  Ionic 
architecture  now  existing :  it  was  an  inner  door  of  one  of  the 
temples  ;  and  it  has  been  judiciously  remarked1  of  the  sculp- 
ture everywhere  displayed  in  this  edifice,  that  "  it  is  difficult 
to  conceive  how  marble  has  been  wrought  to  such  a  depth 
and  brought  to  so  sharp  an   edge,  the  different  ornaments 
having  all   the  delicacy  of  works  in  metal."      Lusieri,  for 
whom  and  for  the  other  artists  this  passage  had  been  opened, 
said,  that  he  considered  the   workmanship  of  the  frieze  and 
cornice,  and  of  the  Ionic  capitals,  as  the   most  admirable 
specimens   of  the  art  of  sculpture   in   the  world:   he   came 
daily  to  examine  it,  with  additional  gratification  and  wonder. 
He    directed    our    attention    to    the   extraordinary    state    of 
preservation  in   which   the  Caryatides   of   the    Pandroseum 
still  remained ;    passing   the  hand   over  the  surface  of  the 
marble  upon  the  necks  of  these  statues,  it  seemed  to  retain 
its  original  polish  in  the  highest  perfection.     Within  this 
of  the  oiive;     building,  so   late  as  the  second  century,  was  preserved  the 
olive-tree  mentioned  by  Apollodorus8,  which  was  said  to  be 
as  old  as  the  foundation  of  the  citadel.     Stuart  supposed  it 
to  have    stood  in  the  portico  of  the  Temple  of  Pandrosus 
(called  by  him  the  Pandroseum),  from  the  circumstance  of 
the   air    necessary  for   its    support,   which   could    here    be 
admitted  between  the  Caryatides;    but   instances   of  trees 
that  have  been  preserved  unto  a  very  great  age,  within  the 

interior 

(1)  Memorandum,  &c.  p.  24.    Lond.  1811. 

(2)  ViQ.  Pausan.  lib.  i.  c.  27.  p.  (54.     Lips.  1696. 


MftMwmiiitii* 


ATHENS. 


501 


interior  of  an  edifice  inclosed  by  walls,  may  be  adduced.   The     chap,  xii. 
building  was  of  course  erected  subsequently  to  the  growth 
of  the   tree,   and   was   in  some  degree  adapted  to  its  form. 
A  very  curious  relique  of  this  kind  may  be  seen  at  Cawdor 
Castle,   near  Inverness   in    Scotland;   in   which  building   a 
hawthorn-tree  of  great  antiquity  is  very  remarkably  preserved. 
Tradition  relates,  that  the  original  proprietor  of  the  edifice 
was  directed  by  a  dream  to  build  a  castle  exactly  upon  the 
spot    where   the   tree   was  found ;    and  this    was   done   in 
such  a  manner  as    to  leave    no    doubt    but    that   the   tree 
existed  long  before  the  structure  was  erected.      The  trunk 
of    this   tree,  with   the    knotty    protuberances    left   by    its 
branches,    is    still  shewn3    in    a  vaulted   apartment    at   the 
bottom     of    the    principal    tower:     its     roots    branch     out 
beneath  the  floor,  and  its  top  penetrates  the  vaulted  arch  of 
stone  above,  in  such  a  manner  that  any  person   seeing   it   is 
convinced  the  masonry  was  adjusted  to  the  shape  and  size  of 
the  plant,  a  space  being  left  for  its  admission  through  the  top 
of  the  vault.     The  hawthorn- tree  of  Cawdor  Castle,  and  the 
traditionary  superstition  to  which  it  has  owed  its  preservation 
during  a  lapse  of  centuries,   may  serve  as  a  parallel  to   the 
history  of the  Athenian  Olive,  by  exhibiting  an  example  nearly 
similar ;   the   one  being  considered   as  the  Palladium  of  an 
antient  Highland  Clan4,  and  the  other  regarded  as  the  most 

sacred 


(3)  The  author  saw  it  in  1797.  The  name  of  the  building,  as  it  is  now  pro- 
nounced, is  not  Cawdor,  but  Calder  Castle. 

(4)  It  had  been  a  custom,  from  time  immemorial,  for  guests  in  the  castle  to  assemble 
around  this  tree,  and  drink  "  Success  to  the  hawthorn,"  or,  in  other  words,  "  Prosperity 
to  the  house  of  Cawdor."  The  first  toast  after  dinner  in  a  Welch  mansion  is,  generally, 
"  The  chief  beam  of  the  house." 


"^^M  w*-.>><  "»3#^ 


502 


CHAP.  XII. 


and  0/ 


ATHENS. 

sacred  relique  of  the  Cecropian  Citadel.  Within  the  Era> 
theum  was  the  Well  of  salt  water,  also  shewn  as  a  mark  of 
the  contest  for  Attica  between  Neptune  and  Minerva'. 
This  well  is  mentioned  by  Wheler2,  who  could  not  obtain 
permission  to  see  it :  he  was  assured  that  it  was  "  almost 
dry"  when  he  visited  the  Acropolis:  but  before  Wheler 
arrived  in  Athens  it  had  been  seen  and  very  curiously 
described  by  Guilletiere,  whose  account  of  the  notions  enter- 
tained concerning  it  by  the  inhabitants  exactly  corresponds 
with  all  that  Pausanias  had  related  of  its  antient  history'. 
The  existence  of  the  well,  in  such  a  remarkable  situation, 
identifies  the  ILrecihewn  better  than  any  proof  derived  from 
the  present  appearance  of  the  building. 

We  dined  with  Signor  Lusieri  and  the  artists  who  were 
his  fellow-labourers  in  the  Acropolis,  upon  a  boiled  kid 
and  some  rice.  Honey  from  Mount  Hymettus  was  served, 
of  such  extraordinary  toughness  and  consistency,  although 
quite  transparent,  that  the  dish  containing  it  might  be 
turned  with  its  bottom  upwards  without  spilling  a  drop ; 
and  the  surface  of  it  might  also  be  indented  with  the  edge 
of  a  knife,  yielding  to  the  impression  without  separation, 
like  a  mass  of  dough.  As  an  article  of  food,  it  is  reckoned 
very  heating;  and  persons  who  eat  much  of  it  are  liable  to 

fever. 


(1)  Pausan,  lib.  i.  c.  26.    Lips.  1696. 

(2)  Journey  into  Greece,  p.  364.     Lond.  1682. 

(3)  "  Au  sortir  du  temple  nous  vlmes,  a  cinquante  pas  de  la,  ce  puys  eclebre,  dont 
on  a  toujours  parle  comme  d'unedesmerveilles  de  la  Nature ;  et  adjourd'hny  les  Athe- 
niens  le  content  pour  une  des  plus  curieuses  raretez  de  leur  pays.  Son  eau  est  salee,  et  a 
la  couleur  de  celle  de  la  mer :  routes  les  fois  que  le  vent  du  ,midy  souffle,  elle  est  agitee,  et 
fait  un  grand  bruit  dans  le  fond  du  puys."    Voyage  d'  Athene s,  p.  298.     a  Paris,  l6/5. 


ATHENS. 


503 


fever.    We  tasted  the  wine  of  Athens,  which  is  unpleasant    .CHA*;  ™\ 
to  those  who  are  not  accustomed  to  it,  from  the  quantity  of 
resin  and  lime  infused  as  substitutes  for  brandy.     After  dinner 
we    examined  the  remains  of  the  Propyl^.a  ;    concerning    Propyls 
which  we  have  little  to  add  to  the  remarks  already  published. 
Over  the  entrance  may  be  seen  one  of  those  enormous  slabs 
of  marble,   called  marble  beams  by  Wheler4;  and  to  which 
Pausanias    particularly    alluded,    when,    in    describing    the 
Propylcea,  he  said,  that,  even  in  his  time,  nothing  surpassing 
the  beauty  of  the  workmanship,  or  the  magnitude  of  the 
stones  used  in  the  building,  had  ever  been  seen'.     We  have 
since  compared  the  dimensions  of  this  slab  with  those  of 
an   architrave    of  much  greater  size,    namely,   that  which 
covers  the  entrance  to  the  great  sepulchre  at  Mycerut ;  for 
it  is  remarkable  that  Pausanias,  who  would  have  mentioned 
the  fact   if  he  had  seen   the  latter,   gives   a  very   detailed 
account  of  the  ruins  of  that  city,  and  yet  takes  no  notice  of 
the  most  prodigious  mass  perhaps  ever  raised  for  any  purpose 
of  architecture,  and  which  is  nearly  four  times  as  large6  as 

any 


(4)  Journey  into  Greece,  Book  V.  p.  359.    Lnnd.  ]6'82. 

(5)  Tft  t£  7rpo7rv\aia  \1B0v  \tvnov  ri}v  opotyrjv  t\ci,  Kal  ko'<t/<«  KOt  fieyidti  ruy 
Xidwi'  /nty^pt   ye   teal   inov  7rpoe7^£.     Pausanine  Attica,   c.  2J.   p.  51.     Lips.  l6Q6. 

(6)  The  slab  at  Mycenae  is  of  granite,  twenty-seven  feet  long,  seventeen  feet  wide, 
and  above  four  feet  and  a  half  in  thickness.  That  which  remains  at  the  Prupylcsa  is  of 
white  marble,  cut  with  the  utmost  precision  and  evenness  :  its  length  is  seventeen  feet 
nine  inches.  The  former  has  quite  an  Egyptian  character  :  the  latter  bespeaks  the 
finer  art  of  a  much  later  period  in  history.  But  the  slab  of  marble  at  the  Propyl&a 
is  not  the  largest  even  in  Athens :  an  architrave  belonging  to  the  Temple  ot  Jupiter 
Olvmpius  exceeds  it  in  cubical  dimensions :  the  length  of  this  architrave  equals  twenty-two 
feet  six  inches  5  its  width  three  feet;  and  its  height  six  feet  six  inches.  See  Stuart's 
Athens.     Pref.  to  vol.  III.  p.  9.    Lo)id.  1/94. 


504 


ATHENS. 


CHAP.  XII. 


Walls  of  the 
Acropolis. 


any  of  the  stones  that  so  much  excited  his  admiration  in 
viewing  the  Propylaea.  This  magnificent  building,  fronting 
the  only  entrance  to  the  Citadel,  has  also  experienced  some 
of  the  effects  of  the  same  ill-judged  rapacity  which  was 
levelled  against  the  Parthenon.  If  the  influence  of  a  better 
spirit  do  not  prevent  a  repetition  of  similar  "  Pursuits  in 
Greece,"  Athens  will  sustain  more  damage  in  being  visited 
by  travellers,  calling  themselves  persons  of  taste,  than  when 
it  was  forgotten  by  the  world,  and  entirely  abandoned  to 
its  barbarian  possessors :  in  a  few  years,  the  traveller  even 
upon  the  spot  must  be  content  to  glean  his  intelligence 
from  the  representation  afforded  by  books  of  Travels,  who 
is  desirous  to  know  what  remained  of  the  Fine  Arts  so 
lately  as  the  time  in  which  the  city  was  visited  by  Wheler, 
by  Chandler,  or  by  Stuart.  We  afterwards  examined  the 
remains  of  the  original  walls  of  the  Acropolis ;  and  observed 
some  appearances  in  the  work  which  had  not  at  that  time, 
as  far  as  we  were  informed,  been  noticed  by  preceding 
travellers.  They  exhibit  three  distinct  periods  of  construc- 
tion ;  that  is  to  say,  the  masonry  of  modern  times  in  the 
repairs ;  a  style  of  building  which  can  only  be  referred 
to  the  age  qfCimon,  or  of  Pericles ;  and  the  antient  Pelasgic 
work,  as  mentioned  byLucian1.  This  was  pointed  out  to  us 
by  Lusieri ;  but  the  circumstance  which  had  escaped  his 
notice,  and  which  we  afterwards  ascertained,  was,  that  a 
row  of  triglyphs,  and  intervening  metopes,  had  been  con- 
tinued all  round  the  upper  part  of  the  walls,  immediately 

beneath 


(1)  Bis  Accusatus,  torn.  VII.  p.  60.    Bipont.  1790. 


iiMnttiM^.*^.  ■  I  _ 


%^-<m 


ATHENS.  505 

beneath  the  coping.  Other  travellers  have  since  observed  chap.  xn. 
and  mentioned  this  fact9:  hence  it  is  evident,  from  the  cir- 
cumference of  the  Acropolis  being  thus  characterized  by  the 
symbols  of  sacred  architecture,  that  the  whole  peribolus  was 
considered  as  one  vast  and  solemn  sanctuary.  We  have  an 
instance  of  the  same  kind  of  sanctuary  in  modern  times,  and 
in  our  own  age.  The  Kremlin  at  Moscow,  the  Acropolis  of 
a  city  whose  inhabitants  have  preserved,  with  their  religion, 
many  a  remnant  of  Grecian  manners,  is  in  like  manner 
held  sacred  by  the  people ;  and  no  person  is  permitted  to 
pass  the  "  Holy  Gate"  leading  to  the  interior,  but  with 
his  head  uncovered*. 

We  then  descended,  to  visit  the  Odeum  of  Regilla,  (the     odeumot 

Regilla. 

building  we  had  passed  in  the  morning,)  at  the  foot  of  the 
rock  of  the  Acropolis,  and  upon  its  south-western  side4. 
The  remains  of  this  edifice  are  those  which  Wheler  and  all 
former  travellers,  excepting  Chandler,  even  to  the  time  of 
Stuart,  have  described  as  the  Theatre  of  Bacchus.  Chandler 
considered  it  as  the  Odeum  of  Pericles,  rebuilt  by  Herodes 
Atticus.  But  Pausanias,  speaking  of  the  Oddum  erected  by 
Herodes  in  memory  of  his  wife,  mentions  it  as  an  original 
structure.  It  was  therefore  distinct  both  from  the  edifice 
erected  by  Pericles  and  from  the  Theatre  of  Bacchus ;  so 
that  perhaps  no  doubt  will  hereafter  be  entertained  upon 

the 


(2)  Memorandum,  &c.   p.  28.    Lond.  1S11. 

(3)  See  Part  I.  of  these  Travels,  Chap.  VII.  p.  1 13.     Second  Edit.    Broxh.  1811. 

(4)  See  the  Plan  of  Athens,  engraved  as  a  Vignette  to  this  Chapter. 

VOL.  III.  3  T 


ss«r*«< 


506 


CHAP.  XII. 


ATHENS. 

the  subject,  as  far  as  this  building  is  concerned1.  All  the 
remaining  parts  of  this  most  costly  theatre  are,Jirst,  three  rows 
of  circular  arches,  one  row  above  another,  facing  the  south- 
west ;  and  these  now  constitute  an  outwork  of  the  fortress,, 
but  originally  they  belonged  to  the  exterior  face  of  the  Scenes 
secondly,  the  semicircular  sweep  or  cavity  within,  for  the 
seats  of  the  spectators,  at  present  almost  choked  with  soil2- 
Nearly  all  that  we  know  of  the  building  is  derived  frorra 
an  accidental  allusion  made  to  it  by  Pausanias,  in  his 
description  of  Achaia;  for  it  was  not  erected,  as  he  himself 
declares,   when  he  had  finished  his  account  of  Attica5.     It 

was 


(1)  See  the  Vignette  to  this  Chapter.  The  Odeum  of  Pericles  was  on  the  south- 
east side,  and,  according  to  Vitruvius,  upon  the  left  of  those  who  came  out  of  the 
Theatre  of  Bacchus :  "  Exeuntibus  a  theatro  sinistra  parte,  Odeum,  quod  Athenis 
Pericles  columnis  lapideis  disposuit."  (Vitruv.  lib.  v.  c.  9.)  It  is  this  circumstance 
alone  which  has  caused  the  Odeum  of  Herodes  to  be  confounded  with  that  Theatre  ; 
but  the  monument  alluded  to  by  Vitruvius  was  at  the  end  of  the  Street  of  the  Tripods, 
and  between  that  street  and  the  Theatre  of  Bacchus.  There  were  three  different  mo- 
numents which  had  received  the  name  of  Odeum  :  one  at  the  south-east  angle  of  the 
Citadel,  which  was  the  Odeum  of  Pericles ;  another  at  the  south-west  angle,  which  was 
the  Odeum  of  Herodes  Atticus.  The  Odeum  mentioned  by  Pausanias  is  again  considered 
as  a  third :  the  Abbe  Barthelemy  believed  the  Pnyx  to  have  been  called  Odeum  by 
Pausanias.  The  subject  is  indeed  somewhat  embarrassed:  and  the  reader  who  wishes  to 
see  it  more  fully  illustrated,  may  consult  the  Notes  to  the  12th  Chapter  of  the  "Voyage 
du  Jeune  Anacharsis,"  torn.  II.  p.  542.  sur  le  Plan  d  Athenes  (a  Paris,  1/90);  and  the 
authorities  cited  by  its  author. 

(2)  There  is  a  fine  view  of  the  interior  published  in  the  second  volume  of  Stuart's 
Athens,  eh.  iii.  PI.  1.  ;  but  the  annexed  representation,  from  a  drawing  by  Preaux,  will 
perhaps  be  found  more  faithful  as  to  its  external  appearance.  It  also  affords  one  of  the 
most  interesting  views  of  the  Acropolis  5  shewing  the  situation  of  the  Propylcea,  the 
Parthenon,  and,  to  the  right  of  the  Theatre  of  Herodes,  the  site  of  the  long  Porticoes 
surmounted  by  the  two  Choragic  Pillars  near  to  the  Theatre  of  Bacchus,  the  columns 
of  Hadrian's  Temple  of  Olympian  Jove,  and  a  distant  view  of  the  ridge  of  Hymettus. 

(3)  Pausaniae  Achaica,  c.  20.  p.  574.    Lips.  l(k)6. 


NMPMMMMMMPHMH 


ATHENS. 

was  raised  by  Herodes  in  memory  of  his  wife,  and  consi- 
dered as  far  surpassing  in  magnitude  and  in  the  costliness 
of  its  materials  every  other  edifice  of  the  kind  in  all  Greece4. 
The  roof  of  it  was  of  cedar.  The  cavity  for  the  seats  was 
scooped  in  the  solid  rock  of  the  Citadel;  a  practice  so 
antient,  that  from  this  circumstance  alone  a  person  might 
be  induced  to  believe,  with  Chandler,  some  more  antient 
theatre  existed  upon  the  spot  before  Herodes  added  any 
thing  to  the  work.  The  first  thing  that  strikes  a  modern 
traveller,  in  viewing  the  Grecian  theatres,  is  the  shallowness 
of  the  Proscenion,  or  place  for  the  stage.  It  is  hardly  pos- 
sible to  conceive  how,  either  by  the  aid  of  painting  or  by 
scenic  decoration,  any  tolerable  appearance  of  distance  or 
depth  of  view  could  be  imitated.  The  actors  must  have 
appeared  like  our  modern  mountebanks  upon  a  waggon,  as 
to  any  effect  of  scenic  deception.  But  so  little  is  known  of 
the  plan  of  an  antient  theatre,  particularly  of  the  Proscenion, 
and  the  manner  in  which  the  Dramas  were  represented, 
that  the  most  perfect  remains  which  we  have  of  such  struc- 
tures leave  us  still  in  the  dark  as  to  the  parts  necessary 
to  compose  the  entire  building.  There  is  no  traveller  who 
has  better  compressed  what  antient  and  modern  writers  have 
said  upon  the  subject,  or  in  a  more  perspicuous  manner, 
than  Guilletiere;  who  piqued  himself  upon  the  value  of  his 
observations5,  although  no  one  since  has  ever  noticed  them. 

It 

(4)  Tovto  yap  /xeytdet  re  ml  £c  n)v  naaav  wreprJKe  KaraaKevtjv.  Pausaniae  Achaica, 
c.  20.  p.  574.    Lips.  16Q6. 

(5)  "  Je  vous  avoue  franchement  que  c'est  icy  que  je  pretens  bien  vous  faire  valoir 
la  peine  de  mes  voyages,  et  le  fruit  de  mes  observations."  Voyage  d'Athenes,  p.  306. 
a  Paris,  1675. 


507 


CHAP.  XII. 


508 


ATHEN  S. 


chap,  xit.  It  is  observed  by  him1,  that  among  all  the  subjects  of  which 
antient  authors  have  treated,  that  of  the  construction  of 
their  theatres  is  the  most  obscure,  the  most  mutilated,  and 
delivered  with  the  most  contradiction.  Vitruvius,  says  he, 
conducts  his  readers  only  half  way0:  he  gives  neither 
the  dimensions,  nor  the  situation,  nor  the  number  of 
the  principal  parts  ;  believing  them  to  be  sufficiently  well 
known,  and  never  once  dreaming  that  they  were  likely  to 
perish.  For  example,  he  does  not  determine  the  quantity  of  the 
Diazomata,  or  Prcecinctio?ies,  which  we  call  corridors,  retreats, 
or  landing-places :  and  even  in  things  which  he  does  specify, 
he  lays  down  rules  which  we  actually  find  were  never  at- 
tended to;  as  when  he  tells  of  two  distinct  elevations  observed 
in  the  construction  of  their  rows  of  benches,  and  neither  the 
one  nor  the  other  accords  with  any  thing  now  remaining  of 
the  antient  theatres,  4mnng  modern  writers,  the  Jesuit 
Gallutius  Sabicnus,  and  the  learned  Scaliger,  have  neglected 
the  most  essential  parts:  and  the  confused  mass  of  citations 
collected  by  Bulengerus  intimidates  any  one  who  is  desirous 
to  set  them  in  a  clear  light :  after  being  at  the  pains  to 
examine  his  authorities,  and  glean  whatever  intelligence  may 
be  derived  from  Athenceus,  Hesychius,  Julius  Pollux,  Eusta- 
thius,  Suidas,  and  others,  our  knowledge  is  still  very  im- 
perfect. The  Greek  theatres  were  in  general  open ;  but  the 
Odeum  of  Regilla  was  magnificently  covered,  as  has  been 
stated,  w  ith  a  roof  of  cedar.    The  Odeum  of  Pericles,  or  Music 

theatre, 


(1)  Voy age  d'Athenes,  p.  306.  a  Paris,  1675. 

(2)  ...  "  a  moitie  chemin. "    Ibid. 


ATHENS. 


509 


theatre,  was  also  covered;  for,  according  to  Plutarch,  it  was  ^hap.xii. 
the  high  pointed  and  tent-like  shape  of  its  roof;  which  gave 
occasion  to  the  comic  poet  Cratmus  to  level  some  ingenious 
raillery  at  Pericles,  who  had  the  care  of  it3.  In  their  open 
theatres,  the  Greeks,  being  exposed  to  the  injuries  of  weather, 
commonly  made  their  appearance  in  large  clokes  ;  they  also 
made  use  of  the  sciadion,  answering  to  our  unibrella,as  a  screen 
from  the  sun.  The  plays  were  performed  always  by  day- 
light. When  a  storm  arose,  the  theatre  was  deserted,  and  the 
audience  dispersed  themselves  in  the  outer  galleries  and  ad- 
joining porticoes4.  During  their  most  magnificent  spectacles 
odoriferous  liquors  were  showered  upon  the  heads  of  the 
people ;  and  the  custom  of  scattering  similar  offerings  upon 
the  heads  of  the  people  was  often  practised  at  Venice  during 
the  carnival. 

By  the  word  Theatre  the  Antients  intended  the  whole    Description  of 

au  autient 

body  of  the  edifice  where  the  people  assembled  to  see  their  Greek 
public  representations.  The  parts  designed  for  the  spectators 
were  called  the  Conistra,  or  pit ;  the  rows  of  benches ;  the 
Diazomata,  or  corridors  ;  the  little  stairs;  the  Cercys;  and  the 
Echea.  The  other  principal  parts  of  the  theatre,  belong- 
ing to  the  actors,  were  called  the  Orchestra ;  the  Pro- 
scenion  ;  and  the  Scene,  that  is  to  say,  the  front  or  face  of 
the  decorations;  for,  properly,  the  word  Scene  has  no  other 

signification. 


Theatre. 


(3)  O   <TytvoK£<j>a\oc  Ztv<;   b?e  TrpouipytTai 
X\tptK\it)(;,   Ttgcilov   irrl   rov   Kpaviov 
'\Lyuy,   iTrei^t]  rovarpaKov  TrapoiKsrai. 

Vid.  Plut.  in  Pericl.  torn.  I.  p.  353.    Lond.  1723. 

(4)  Vitru  .  lib.  v.  cap.  9.  p.  92. 


510 


CHAP.  XII. 


ATHENS. 

signification.  The  interior  structure  extended  like  the  arc 
of  a  circle,  reaching  to  the  two  corners  of  the  Proscenion : 
above  that  portion  of  the  circumference  were  raised  four 
and  twenty  rows  of  benches,  surrounding  the  Conistra,  or 
pit,  for  the  spectators.  These  benches,  in  their  whole  height, 
were  divided  into  three  sets  by  the  Diazomata  or  corridors, 
consisting  of  eight  rows  in  each  division.  The  Diazomata  ran 
parallel  to  the  rows  of  seats,  and  were  of  the  same  form ; 
they  were  contrived  as  passages  for  the  spectators  from  one 
part  of  the  theatre  to  another,  without  incommoding  those 
who  were  seated :  for  the  same  convenience,  there  were  little 
steps1  that  crossed  the  several  rows,  and  reached  from  one 
corridor  to  another,  from  the  top  to  the  bottom,  so  that 
persons  might  ascend  or  descend  without  incommoding  the 
audience.  Near  to  those  staircases  were  passages  leading  to 
the  outer  porticoes,  by  which  the  spectators  entered  to  take 
their  places.  The  best  places  were  in  the  middle  tier,  upon 
the  eight  rows  between  the  eighth  and  the  seventeenth 
bench.  This  part  of  the  theatre  was  called  Bouleuticon ;  it 
was  set  apart  for  the  magistrates.  The  other  tiers  were 
called  Ephebicon,  and  were  appropriated  to  the  citizens  after 
they  had  attained  their  eighteenth  year.  Along  each  corridor, 
at  convenient  distances,  in  the  solid  part  of  the  structure, 
small  cellular  cavities,  called  Echcea,  containing  brass  vessels, 
open  towards  the  Scene.  Above  the  upper  corridor  there  was 
a  gallery  or  portico,  called  Ccrcys,  for  the  women ;  but  those 

who 

(l)  Each  of  those  little  steps  was  exactly  half  the  height  of  one  of  the  benches.  They 
formed  diverging  radii  from  the  Conistra.  Such  staircases  remain  very  entire  in  the 
theatres  of  Asia  Minor,  as  at  Telmessus ;  in  Epidauria  ;  at  Sicyon  ;  Chsronaea ;  &rc. 


ATHEN  S. 


511 


who  had  led  disorderly  lives  had   a  place  apart  for   their     chap.xii. 
reception.     Strangers  and  allies  who  had  the  freedom  of  the 
city  were  also  placed  in  the  Cercys.     Individuals  had  also, 
sometimes,  a  property  in  particular  places;  which  descended 
by  succession  to  the  eldest  of  the  family. 

Thus  much  for  the  parts  appropriated  to  the  spectators. 
With  regard  to  others  belonging  to  the  Drama,  the  Orchestra 
(an  elevation  out  of  the  Conistra  or  pit)  began  about  fifty- 
four  feet  from  the  face  of  the  Proscenion  or  stage,  and  ended 
at  the  Proscenion.     Its  height  was  about  four  feet ;  its  shape 
an  oblong  parallelogram,   detached  from  the  seats   of  the 
spectators  :  here  were  stationed  the  musicians,  the  choir,  anid 
the  mimics.     Among  the  Romans  it  was  destined  for  a  more 
noble  use ;   the  Emperor,  the  Senate,  the  Vestals,  and  other 
persons  of  quality,  having  their  seats  upon  it.    The  Proscenion 
or  stage  was  raised  seven  feet  above  the  Orchestra,  and  eleven 
above  the   Conistra;    and  upon  it  stood  an  altar  dedicated 
to  Apollo.     The  part  called  the  Scene  was  nothing  else  than 
the  columns,  and  architectural  decorations,  raised  from  the 
foundations,  and  upon  the  wings  of  the  Proscenion,  merely 
for   ornament.      When    there    were  three   rows  of  pillars 
one  above  another,  the  highest  row  was  called  Episcenion. 
Agatarchus  was  the  first  architect  who  decorated  the  Scene 
according  to  the  rules  of  perspective :  he  received  his  instruc- 
tions from iEschylus2.  The  theatres  of  Greece  and  Asia  Minor 

were 


(2)  Besides  the  parts  of  a  Greek  theatre  here  enumerated,  Guilletiere  mentions  line 
Logeion,  or  Thymde,  which  the  Romans  called  Pulpituvi;  and  the  Hyposcenion  ;  both 
which  were  parts  of  the  Orchestra.  Also  the  Parascenion,  or  space  before  and  behind 
the  Scene ;  and  a  species  of  machinery  for  introducing  the  Gods,  which  was  called 
Theologeion. 


512 


CHAP.  XII. 


ATHENS. 

were  not  solely  appropriated  to  plays  and  public  shews :  some- 
times they  were  used  for  state  assemblies ;  and  occasionally 
as  schools,  in  which  the  most  eminent  philosophers  harangued 
their  scholars.  St.  Paul  was  desirous  :o  go  into  the  theatre 
at  Ephesus,  to  address  the  people,  during  the  uproar  caused 
by  Demetrius  the  silversmith1;  but  was  entreated  by  his 
disciples  not  to  present  himself  there.,  through  fear  that  he 
would  encounter  the  violence  which  Gaius  and  Aristarchus 
had  already  experienced-. 

From  the  Odium  of  Regilla  we  went  to  the  Areopagus; 
wishing  to  place  our  feet  upon  a  spot  where  it  is  so  decidedly 
known  that  St.  Paul  had  himself  stood ;  and  to  view  with 
our  eyes  the  same  scene  which  he  beheld,  when  he  declared 
unto  the  Athenians3  the  nature  of  the  Unknown  God 
whom  they  so  ignorantly  worshipped,  and  opposed  the  new 
doctrine  of  "  Christ  crucified"  to  the  spirit  and  the  genius 
of  the  Gentile  faith.  They  had  brought  him  to  the  Court  of 
the  Areopagites,  to  explain  the  nature  of  the  rash  enterprise 
in  which  he  was  engaged;  and  to  account  for  the  unex- 
ampled temerity  of  an  appeal  which  called  upon  them  to 
renounce  their  idols,  to  abolish  their  most  holy  rites,  and  to 
forsake  their  Pantheon  for  One  only  God   "  who  dwelleth 

not 


(1)  Actsxix.  30,  31. 

(2)  This  brief  survey  of  the  form  of  an  antient  Greek  theatre,  and  of  its  various  parts, 
will  be  found  useful  to  travellers  during  their  examination  of  the  remains  of  such  struc- 
tures. Those  who  wish  to  see  the  subject  more  fully  discussed,  may  consult  Guilletiere, 
from  whose  researches,  added  to  his  personal  observations,  it  has  been,  with  very  little 
alteration,  derived.  The  author,  having  already  proved  its  accuracy,  by  comparing  it  with 
the  Notes  he  made  among  the  ruins  of  the  Grecian  theatres,  and  rinding  that  it  had  been 
unaccountably  overlooked,  conceived  it  might  make  a  useful  addition  to  his  work. 

(3)  Acts  xvii.  22. 


ATHENS. 


513 


not  in  temples  made  with  hands," — the  God  of  the  Hebrews  chap,  xir. 
too,  a  people  hated  and  despised  by  all.  It  does  not  seem 
possible  for  the  mind  to  conceive  a  situation  of  greater  peril, 
or  one  of  severer  trial  to  the  sincerity  of  a  preacher, 
than  that  in  which  he  was  then  placed:  and  the  truth  of 
this,  perhaps,  will  never  be  better  felt,  than  by  a  spectator 
who,  from  this  eminence,  actually  beholds  the  stately  monu- 
ments of  Pagan  pomp  and  superstition  by  which  he,  whom 
the  Athenians  considered  as  "  the  setter-forth  of  strange 
Gods,"  was  at  that  time  surrounded;  representing  to  the 
imagmation,  at  the  same  time,  the  disciples  of  Socrates  and , 
of  Plato,  the  Dogmatist  of  the  Porch,  and  the  Sceptic 
of  the  Academy,  addressed  by  a  poor  and  lowly  man,  whose 
plain  unvarnished  precepts  contained  nothing  but  what  was 
contrary  to  their  taste,  and  very  hostile  to  their  prejudices. 
One  of  the  peculiar  privileges  of  the  Areopagitce  seems  to 
have  been  set  at  defiance  by  the  zeal  of  the  Apostle  upon 
this  occasion  ;  namely,  that  of  inflicting  extreme  and  exem- 
plary punishment  upon  any  person  who  should  slight  the 
celebration  of  the  holy  mysteries,  or  blaspheme  the  Gods 
of  Greece.  We  ascended  to  the  top,  by  means  of  steps  cut 
within  the  natural  stone,  which  is  of  breccia.  The  sublime 
scene  here  exhibited  is  so  striking,  that  a  brief  description 
of  it  may  prove  how  truly  it  offers  to  us  a  commentary 
upon  St.  Paul's  words,  as  they  were  delivered  upon  the  spot. 
He  stood  upon  the  open  summit  of  the  rock,  beneath  the 
canopy  of  heaven4.     Before  him  there  was  spread  a  glorious 

prospect 

(4)  The  Senate  of  the  Areopagus  assembled  sometimes  in  the  Royal  Portico ;   (vid. 

Dcmosth.  in  Aristog.  />.  J331.)  but  its  most  ordinary  place  of  meeting  was  on  an  eminence 

VOL.  III.  3  U  at 


r^r* 


|W*/»K ■  !?->r.««>  1 1 


514 


ATHENS. 


chap. xii.  prospect  of  mountains,  islands,  seas,  and  skies:  behind  him 
towered  the  lofty  Acropolis,  crowned  with  all  its  marble 
temples.  Thus  every  object,  whether  in  the  face  of  Nature 
or  among  the  works  of  Art,  conspired  to  elevate  the  mind, 
and  to  fill  it  with  reverence  towards  that  Being  "  who 
made  and  governs  the  world"1;  who  sitteth  in  that  light 
which  no  mortal  eye  can  approach,  and  yet  is  nigh  unto 
the  meanest  of  his  creatures ;  "  in  whom  we  live,  and  move, 
and  have  our  being." 

Within  the  Pcribolus  of  the  Areopagus  was  the  AJomi- 
ment  of  (Edipus,  whose  bones,  according  to  Pausanias2,  «were 
brought  hither  from  Thebes  ;  and  the  actual  site  of  the  altar 
mentioned  by  the  same  author  may  still  be  seen  in  the  rock. 
It  is  scarcely  necessary  to  repeat  the  history  of  a  place  so  well 
known,  and  so  long  renowned  for  the  impartial  judgment 
which  was  here  administered3.     We  turned  from  it  towards 

the 


at  a  small  distance  from  the  Citadel,  (Herodot.  lib.vi'u.  c.  52.)  called "Apuoc  irdyoQ.  Here 
a  space  was  levelled  for  this  Court  by  planing  the  summit  of  the  rock ;  and  the  steps  which 
conducted  to  it  were  similarly  carved  out  of  the  solid  stone.  In  this  respect  it  somewhat 
resettled  Pnyx.  The  origin  of  this  Court  may  be  traced  back  to  the  time  of  Cecrops : 
(Marmor.  Oxon.Epoch.3.)  The  Areopagus  had  no  roof;  but  it  was  occasionally  defended 
from  the  weather  by  a  temporary  shed.    (Jul.  Poll.  lib.Vni.  c.  10.   Vitruv.  lib.  ii.  c.  1.) 

(1     Acts  xvii.  24,  28. 

(2 1  "Effri  Ci  ivrds  rov  TrspcfioXov  /uvif/xa  OlSiirodoc.     Uo\v7rpay/xoy(.>v  ct,   tvpiaKov 
ret  otr-d  it:  Q>]ft(jy  Kopitadcyra.      Pausan.   lib.  i.  c.  28.   p.  69.     Lips.  I696. 

(3  1  Every  thing  the  Reader  may  wish  to  see  concentrated  upon  this  subject,  may  be 
found  in  the  Thesaurus  Grcecarum  Antiquitatum  of  Gronovius ;  and  particularly  in  the 
Areopagus  Meursii,  as  edited  by  him.  (Fid.  Volum.  Quint.  p.10"J\.  L.  Bat.  1699.) 
That  the  Hill  of  the  Areopagus  was  a  continuation  of  the  western  slope  of  the  Acropolis, 
seems  manifest  from  the  following  allusion  made  to  it  by  Lucian  : — Movov  drriofitv  «r 
Apeioy  77Uyov,  fiaXkov  ct  ii<;  ti)v  'A/vyjoVoXtv  avrrjv,  u<;  dV  ix  rfjc  vepiuTri]';  itfxa  rar«- 
(j>aveu)  vuvra  rd  iv  rij  7r6\si.  " Tantum  ad  Areopagum  abeamus,  seu  potius  in  ipsam 
Arcem ;  ut  tanquam  c  specula,  simul  omnia,  quae  in  urbe,  conspiciantur."  Fid.  Lucian. 
in  Piscatorc,  ap.  Meurs.  Areop.  c.  1.   Edit.  Gronovii. 


ATHENS. 


515 


the  Temple  of  Theseus,  which  exists  almost  as  perfect 
as  when  it  was  at  first  finished :  having  gratified  our 
curiosity  by  a  hasty  survey  of  the  outside  of  this  building — 
which,  although  not  of  so  much  magnitude  as  the  Parthenon, 
ranks  next  to  it  in  every  circumstance  of  chaste  design  and 
harmonious  proportion — we  entered  the  modern  city  by  a> 
gate  near  to  the  Temple,  and  were  conducted  to  the 
comfortable  dwelling  assigned  for  our  abode,  by  Lusieri, 
during  the  remainder  of  our  residence  in  Athens. 


CHAP.  XII. 


Temple  of 
Theseus. 


^fc: 


*«*  Gem,  in  the  Authors  Y^e 

CHAP.  XIII. 


CHAP.  XIII. 


ATHENS. 

Temple  of  the  Winds — Unknown  Structure  of  the  Corinthian  Order 
—  The  Bazar — Population  and  Trade  of  Athens  —  State  of  the 
Arts  —  Manufacture  of  Pictures — Monochrome  Painting  of  the 
Antients — Terra  Cottas — Origin  of  Painting  and  Pottery  among 
the  Greeks — Medals  and  Gems — Explanation  of  the  Amphora  as 
a  symbol  upon  Athenian  Coins — Ptolemaeum — Antient  Marbles  — 
These'um —  Grave  of  Tweddell — Description  of  the  Temple — 
Areopagus — Pirceean  Gate  —  Pnyx — Monument  on  the  Museum 
— Antient  Walls — Theatre  and  Cave  of  Bacchus — Monument  of 
Thrasyllus —  Choragic  Pillars — Remarkable  Inscription  —  Origin 
of  the  Crypt — Ice  Plant  in  its  native  state — Arch  of  Hadrian — its 
origin — ivhen  erected — Temple  of  Jupiter  Oly  m  pi  us— Discordant 
accounts  of  this  building — reasons  for  the  name  assigned  to  it  — 
Ilissus — Fountain  Callirhoe — False  notions  entertained  of  the  river 
—  Stadium  Panathenaicum  —  Sepulchre  of  Herodes — Hadrians 
Reservoir — Mount  Anchesmus — View  from  the  summit. 

1  h  e  next  morning,  October  the   thirtieth,  we  received  a 
visit  from   the  English  Consul,  Signor  Spiridion  Logotheti, 

who 


ATHENS.  517 

who  accompanied   us   to   the  Waiwode,     or  Turkish    Go-     chap.  xm. 

vernor.     This  ceremony  being  over,  Lusieri  conducted  us 

to  see  the  famous  marble  Tower  of  the  Winds,  at  a  short    Tcmpieof 

the  lPri?idSn 

distance  from  the  bazar.  This  octagonal  building  is  known 
to  be  the  same  which  Vitruvius  mentions,  but  it  is  entirely 
unnoticed  by  Pausanias.  The  soil  has  been  raised  all  around 
the  tower,  and  in  some  places  it  has  accumulated  to  the 
height  of  fifteen  feet :  owing  to  this  circumstance,  the  spec- 
tator is  placed  too  near  to  the  figures  sculptured  in  relief 
upon  the  sides  of  the  edifice;  for  these  appear  to  be  clumsy 
statues,  out  of  all  proportion  to  the  building.  Lusieri 
believed  that  it  had  been  the  original  design  of  the  architect 
to  raise  those  figures  to  a  greater  elevation  than  that  in  which 
they  were  viewed  even  before  the  accumulation  of  the  soil. 
Stuart  has  been  so  diffuse  in  the  description  of  the  building 
and  every  thing  relating  to  it,  that  he  has  left  nothing  to 
be  added  by  other  travellers'.  It  seems  the  Christians  once 
made  use  of  it  as  a  church ;  and  their  establishment  has  been 
succeeded  by  that  of  a  college  of  Dervishes,  who  here  exhibit 
their  peculiar  dance.  Probably  it  was  one  of  the  sacred 
structures  of  the  antient  city ;  and,  as  a  place  of  religious 
worship,  answered  to  other  purposes  than  that  of  merely 
indicating  the  direction  of  the  Winds,  the  Seasons,  and  the 
Hours.  The  author  of  the  Archceohgia  Grceca  seems  to  have 
entertained  this  opinion,  by  calling  it,  after  Wheler,  the 
Temple  of  the  Eight  Winds2. 

We 


(1)  Antiquities  of  Athens,  vol.  III.  c.3.    Lond.  1762. 

(2)  Archreol.  Graec.  vol.1,  c.  8.  p.  35.    Lond.  If 51. 


S&gB5£m» 


518 


CHAP.  XIII. 


ATHENS. 

We  then  went  to  the  bazar,  and  inspected  the   market. 

The  shops  are  situated  on  the  two  sides  of  a  street  lying  to 

the  north  of  the  Acropolis,  which  is  close  and  parallel  to  the 

wall  and  columns  of  a  magnificent  building  of  the  Corinthian 

Unkn  order.      The    entablature,  capitals,  and  parts  of  the  shafts 

thecorinthian     of  these  columns,   may  be  viewed  from  the  street ;  but  the 

Order. 

market  is  for  the  most  part  covered  by  trellis-work  and 
vines.  So  little  is  known  concerning  the  history  of  this 
building,  that  it  were  vain  to  attempt  giving  an  account  of 
it.  Spon1,  Wheler8,  and  Le  Roy5,  call  it  the  Temple  of 
Jupiter  Olympius.  The  temples  of  Jupiter  were  generally 
not,  like  this  building,  of  the  Corinthian,  but  of  the  Doric 
order :  the  same  objection,  however,  applies  to  the  received 
opinion  concerning  those  columns  of  Hadrian  near  the  Ilissus, 
which  are  now  believed  to  have  belonged  to  that  temple. 
Stuart  considered  this  Corinthian  structure  near  the  bazar  as 
the  Stoa,  or  portico,  which  was  called  Poikile4,  or  Pcecilc. 
A  fine  view  of  the  bazar,  and  also  of  the  building,  is  given  in 
The  Bazar.  Le  Roy's  work5.  It  is  highly  probable  that  the  bazar  is 
situated  upon  the  antient  market  of  the  inner  Ceramicus, 
and  near  to  the  site  of  the  greater  Agora,  from  the  circum- 
stance of  the  Inscription  mentioned  by  Spon  and  by  Wheler, 
containing  a  decree  of  the  Emperor   Hadrian  relating   to 

the 

(1)  Voyage  de  Grece,  et  du  Levant,  fait  aux  annees  16/5  et  1676,  torn.  II.  p.  107, 
a  La  Haye,  1724. 

(2)  Journey  into  Greece,  p.391.    Lond.  1682. 

(3)  Ruines  des  Monumens  de  la  Grece,  p.  19.    Paris,  1758. 

(4)  See   Stuart's  Athens,    vol.1,  c.5.   Lond.  17 62.     Ako   vol.  III.   Plan   of  ths 
Antiquities.    Lond.  1794. 

(5)  See  Plate  X.  Ruines,  See.    Paris,  1758. 


ATHENS. 


519 


the  sale  of  oil,  which  was  found  upon  the  spot6.  And  if  this 
be  true,  the  Corinthian  edifice  may  be  either  the  old  Forum  of 
the  inner  Cer  amicus,  called  APXAIA  afopa,  where  the  public 
assemblies  of  the  people  were  held,  which  is  the  most  pro- 
bable conjecture  as  to  its  origin,  or  the  remains  of  the  Temple 
of  Vulcan,  or  of  Venus  Urania ;  for  the  Boric  portico  which 
Stuart  believed  to  have  belonged  to  the  Agora1  is  exactly 
in  a  line  with  the  front  of  this  building ;  and  its  situation 
corresponds  with  that  of  the  portico  called  BasiUuni  by 
Pausanias,  beyond  which  the  Temple  of  Vulcan  stood8. 
The  measures  for  dry  things,  in  the  bazar,  were  fashioned 
in  the  antient  style,  and  of  the  materials  formerly  used, 
being  made  of  white  marble  ;  but  their  capacity  has  been 
adapted  to  modern  customs  :  instead  of  the  medimnus,  the 
chcenix,  and  the  vcstcs,  we  found  them  to  contain  two 
quintals,  one  quintal,  and  the  half  quintal.  The  population 
of  Athens  amounts  to  fifteen  thousand,  including  women 
and  children.  The  principal  exports  are  honey  and  oil  : 
of  the  latter  they  send  away  about  five  vessels  freighted 
annually.  Small  craft,  from  different  parts  of  the  Archipelago, 
occasionally  visit  the  Pirceeus  and  the  neighbouring  coast,  for 
wood.  The  shops  maintain  an  insignificant  traffic  in  furs 
and  cloth.    The  best  blue  cloth  in  Athens  was  of  bad  German 


CHAP.  XIII. 


Population 
and  Trade 
of  Athens. 


raanu- 


(6)  See  Spon,  as  above,  p.  106.  Wheler,  p. 389.  KAovo/ia  vopufAOv  Qiov  'Acptavov, 
k.  r.  A.    See  also  the  Plan  of  Athens  engraved  as  a  Vignette  to  the  last  Chapter. 

(7)  Antiquities  of  Athens,  vol.1,  c.  1.  p.  3.    Lond.  1762. 

(8)  '\7r1p   oi   rdv    Ktpujbieticdv   icttt    orodv   n)v   Ka\()vp,ivt]v   Baafkttov,   vao<:   icrriv 

'HyaicTTov irXifuiov  cc  hpov  iariv  'AtypvciTt)';  Ovpavias.    Pausaniae  Attica, 

«•  14.  p.  30'.    Lips.  I696. 


520 


ATHENS. 


State  of  the 

Arts. 


Manufacture 
of  Pictures. 


chap.  xin.  manufacture,  selling  under  the  name  of  English.  Indeed, 
in  almost  all  the  towns  of  Europe,  when  any  thing  is  offered 
for  sale  of  better  manufacture  than  usual,  it  is  either  English> 
or  said  to  be  English1  in  order  to  enhance  its  price. 

The  silversmiths  were  occupied  in  making  coarse  rings  for 
the  Albanian  women;  and  the  poor  remains  of  Grecian  painters 
in  fabricating,  rather  than  delineating,  pictures  of  Saints  and 
Virgins.  Their  mode  of  doing  this  may  serve  to  shew  how 
exactly  the  image  of  any  set  of  features,  or  the  subject  of  any 
representation,  may  be  preserved  unaltered,  among  different 
artists,  for  many  ages.  The  prototype  is  always  kept  by  them, 
and  transmitted  with  great  care  from  father  to  son  (for  in 
Greece,  as  in  China,  the  professions  are  often  hereditary, 
and  remain  in  the  same  family  for  a  number  of  generations) : 
it  consists  of  a  piece  of  paper  upon  which  the  outline  and 
all  the  different  parts  of  the  design,  even  to  the  minutest  cir- 
cumstance, have  been  marked  by  a  number  of  small  holes 
pricked  w  ith  the  point  of  a  pin  or  a  needle.  This  pattern  is 
laid  on  any  surface  prepared  for  painting,  and  rubbed  over 

with 


(l)  For  the  most  accurate  information  respecting  the  commerce  of  Greece,  in  all 
its  parts,  the  Reader  is  referred  to  the  publication  of  Mons.  Beaujour  (Tableau  cu 
Commerce  de  la  Grece,  par  Felix  Beaujour,  Ex-Consul  en  Grece.  Paris,  1800).  Upon 
the  subject  of  "  La  draperieAnglaise,"  these  imitations  of  English  cloth  are  mentioned 
as  having  the  preference  over  the  original  manufacture.  "  Depuis  cette  epoque  (173;) 
le  credit  de  la  draperie  Anglaise  a  toujours  baisse.  On  a  vu  sur  cette  place  le  debit  dis 
Londres  diminuer  progressivement  par  la  concurrence  de  nos  londrins,  fails  a  leur 
imitation.  Les  londres  sont  des  draps  leges  et  grossiers,  ainsi  nommes,  parce  que  lis 
premiers  fabriques  furent  etablies  a  Londres.  L'assortiment  etait  d'abord  invariablemeat 
un  tiers  vert,  un  tiers  bleu,  et  un  tiers  garance.  On  demande  aujourd'hui  des  assorii- 
mens  composes  tout  de  bleu."    Tableau  du  Coram,  torn.  II.  p.  b. 


ATHENS. 


521 


with  finely-powdered  charcoal :  the  dust  falling  through  the  P*AP'X1I1\ 
holes  leaves  a  dotted  outline  for  the  painter,  who  then  pro- 
ceeds to  apply  the  colours  much  after  the  same  manner,  by  a 
series  of  other  papers  having  the  places  cut  out  where  any 
particular  colour  is  to  be  applied.  Very  little  skill  is 
requisite  in  the  finishing;  for,  in  fact,  one  of  these 
manufacturers  of  effigies  might  with  just  as  much  ease 
give  a  rule  to  make  a  picture,  as  a  tailor  to  cut  out  a  suit  of 
clothes  :  the  only  essential  requisite  is  a  good  set  of  patterns, 
and  these  are  handed  from  father  to  son.  Hence  we  learn 
the  cause  of  that  remarkable  stiffness  and  angular  outline 
which  characterize  all  the  pictures  in  the  Greek  churches : 
the  practice  is  very  antient;  and  although  the  works  of  some 
Greek  painters,  which  yet  remain,  enable  us  to  prove  that 
there  were  artists  capable  of  designing  and  drawing  in  a 
more  masterly  manner,  yet  it  is  highly  probable  that  the 
pictures  of  the  Antients  were  often  of  this  description. 
Whoever  attentively  examines   the    paintings  upon   terra-     Monochrome 

•  i  -i  r  7  *ii        Painting  of 

cotta  vases,  executed  in  the  style  call  Monochromalon  ,  will  the  Antients. 
be  convinced  that  such  a  process  was  used;  only  with  this 
difference :  the  parts  for  the  picture  were  either  left  bare, 
being  covered  by  the  pattern,  and  the  whole  surface  of  the 
vessel  which  remained  exposed  was  coated  with  black  paint ; 
or,  cavities  being  cut  out  for  the  figures,  were  filled  with 
the  black  or  white  colour,  and  the  rest  of  the  vase  possessed 
the  natural  hue  of  the  clay  after  being  baked.    The  latter 

process 


(2)  "  Secundam  singulis  coloribus,  et  monochromatun  dictam,  postquam  operosior 
inventa  erat."    Plin.  Hist.  Nat.  lib.  xxxv.  c.3.  torn.  III.  p.  417.    L.  Bat.  1635. 

VOL.  III.  3  X 


522 


A  THEN  S. 


chap,  xiii.  process  was  the  more  antient ;  and  vases  of  this  description  arc 
decorated  with  black,  or  very  rarely  with  white,  figures  and 
ornaments  upon  a  red  ground.  The  fact  is,  that  the  white 
colour  has  been  generally  decomposed,  and  nothing  remains 
but  the  ground  upon  which  it  was  laid.  After  a  vase 
has  been  discovered  in  an  antient  sepulchre,  the  white  colour 
is  so  fugitive  that  it  is  sometimes  carried  off  by  the  mene 
process  of  washing  the  vessel  in  common  water,  and  it 
never  resists  the  acids  which  are  used  for  that  purpose. 
The  persons  who  deal  in  these  antiquities,  at  Naples 
and  in  other  parts  of  Italy,  very  commonly  retouch  and 
restore  their  vases,  adding  a  little  white  paint  where  the 
white  colour  has  disappeared.  The  monochrome  paintings 
of  the  Antients  sometimes  consisted  of  white  colour  upon 
a  red  or  black  ground  :  this  style  of  painting  was  expressed 
by  the  word  Mvxoygdtpst/.  The  most  beautiful  of  the 
monochrome  paintings  are  those  which  were  executed  upon 
earthen  vases  when  the  Arts  were  considerably  advanced  : 
these  exhibit  red  figures  upon  a  black  ground  ;  the  beautiful 
red  colour  is  owing  solely  to  the  fine  quality  of  the  clay  : 
the  effect  was  afterwards  heightened  by  the  addition  of  an 
outline,  at  first  rudely  scratched  with  the  point  of  a  sharp 
instrument,  but  in  the  best  ages  of  the  Arts  carefully 
delineated  ;  and  often  tinted  with  other  colours,  in  so 
masterly  a  style,  that  it  has  been  said  Raphael,  under  similar 

circum- 

(1)  (Aristot.  Poet.  c.Q.  See  also  Winkelmann  Hist,  de  VArt,  torn.  II.  p.  144. 
Paris,  An  2.)  Sometimes  a  red  colour  was  singly  applied  upon  white  marble  ;  in 
which  style  of  painting  four  pictures  were  found  in  Herculaneum :  and,  lastly,  there 
were  monochrome  paintings  with  a  black  colour  upon  a  red  ground  j  as  upon  the 
terra-cotta  vases. 


ATHENS. 


523 


circumstances,  could  not  have  produced  any  thing  superior  chap,  x ml 
either  in  beauty  or  correctness2.  But  the  vases  which  are  Terra Cottas- 
characterized  by  such  perfection  of  the  art,  rarely  exhibit 
paintings  of  equal  interest  with  those  fabricated  at  an 
earlier  epocha.  The  designs  upon  the  latter  generally 
serve  to  record  historical  events;  or  they  represent  the 
employments  of  man  in  the  earliest  ages;  either  when 
engaged  in  destroying  the  ferocious  animals  which  infested 
his  native  woods,  or  in  procuring  by  the  chace  the 
means  of  his  subsistence3.  The  representations  upon  the 
former  relate  only  to  the  ceremonies  of  the  bath  and  of 
the  toilet;  or  to  the  dances,  and  the  games,  as  they  were 
celebrated  at  the  Grecian  festivals.  The  subject  of  Grecian 
painting  has  insensibly  led  to  that  of  the  terra-cotta  vases, 
because  these  have  preserved  for  us  the  most  genuine 
specimens  of  the  art  as  it  existed  in  the  remotest  periods 
of  its  history ;  and  we  now  see  that  the  method  employed 
by  the  earliest  Grecian  artists  in  their  monochrome 
painting  is  still  used  by  Athenian  workmen  in  the  ma- 
nufacture of  their  idol  pictures.  The  silver  shrines  with 
which  such  pictures  are  covered,  especially  in  Russia,  having 
holes  cut  in  them  to  shew  the  faces  and  hands  of  their  Saints 
and  Virgins,  exhibit  exactly  the  sort  of  superficies  used 
upon  these  occasions  for  laying  on  the  parts  of  the  painting; 

and 


(2)  See  the  observations  of  D'Hancarville,  Italinski,  Sir  W.  Hamilton,  &c.  &c. 

(3)  Monochrome  paintings  upon  ivory  have  been  found  where  it  might  be  least 
expected  that  anything  resembling  the  arts  of  Etruria  or  of  Greece  would  be  discovered  j 
namely,  among  the  Aleoutau  Isles,  between  North  America  and  Kamschatka.  The 
author  had  in  his  possession  an  ivory  bow,  brought  thence  by  Commodore  Billings;  on 
which  the  natives  were  represented  as  engaged  in  fishing,  &c. ;  the  figures,  delineated  in  a 
black  colour,  perfectly  resembled  the  paintings  on  the  oldest  terra-cotta  vases. 


524  ATHENS. 

chap,  xii l  an(j  ^  :s  verv  probable  that  the  Russian  painters,  who 
manufacture  these  images  for  sale,  received  from  the  Greeks 
with  their  religion  this  method  of  preparing  them.  A  curious 
piece  of  chicanery  is  practised  by  the  Russian  dealers  in  this 
species  of  holy  craft.  The  silver  shrine  is  supposed  to  serve  as 
a  mere  case  to  inclose  the  sacred  picture ;  leaving  only  the 
small  apertures  before  mentioned,  for  their  Bog/is,  or  Gods, 
to  peep  through  :  but  as  the  part  beneath  the  silver  super- 
ficies is  not  seen,  they  spare  themselves  the  trouble  of 
painting  anything  except  the  face  and  hands  of  the  image; 
so  that  if  the  case  by  any  accident  fall  off,  the  bare  wood 
is  disclosed,  instead  of  the  rest  of  the  picture.  But  to  return 
to  the  art  of  painting  among  the  Antient  Greeks :  If  we  except 
the  pictures  found  in  Herculaneum,  Pompeii,  and  Stabia,  and 
the  few  faint  vestiges  upon  marble  statues,  we  may  despair 
of  seeing  anything  so  perfect  as  those  specimens  which 
are  preserved  upon  terra  cotta ;  whether  upon  facings 
intended  for  architecture1,  or  upon  vases  found  in   Grecian 

origin  of  sepulchres.     It    is    evident    that    these   pictures   are  purely 

Painting  and  *  l.xj 

fheGrSs011*  Grecian,  because  Greek  inscriptions  so  often  accompany 
them  ;  but  it  seems  equally  evident  that  the  Greeks  were 
indebted  for  the  art  to  the  Etruscans.  The  art  of  making 
earthenware  was  transported  from  Etruria  into  Greece.  The 
Romans  also  borrowed  this  invention  from  the  Etruscans; 
to  whom  Greece  was  indebted  for  many  of  its  ceremonies 
and     religious    institutions2,     and    for    its    mechanics    and 

artificers. 


(1)  Painted  terra  cotta  was  sometimes  used   in  Grecian  buildings,   for  the  fries 

and  other  ornaments :  of  this  an  example  will  be  given  in  a  subsequent  descriptioi 
of  Ruins  in  Epidauria. 

(2)  Plato  de  Leg.  lib.  v. 


ATHENS. 


525 


artificers3.  According  to  Heraclides  Ponticus,  the  inhabitants    chap.xiii. 

of  Etruria  were  distinguished  in  all  the  Arts  and  Sciences4; 

and  before  the  foundation  of  Rome  the  art  of  painting  had 

attained  a  high  degree  of  perfection  in  that  country,  for 

Pliny  mentions  pictures  at  Ardea  which  were  older  than 

the  birth  of  Romulus5.    This  alone  is  sufficient  to  shew,  that, 

in  the  eighth  century  before  the  Christian  tera,  and  above  an 

hundred  years  before  the  age  of  Solon,  consequently  before 

the  Arts  obtained  any   footing  in  Greece,  the  same  people 

who  taught  the  Greeks  the  art  of  making  earthenware  were 

also  well  acquainted  with  the  art  of  painting.    In  addition, 

it   may  be  urged  that  the  cities  of  Nola  and  Capua  were 

founded  and  built  by  the  Etruscans6;  and   it  is  remarkable 

that  the  vases  of  Nola  are  peculiar  for  elegance  of  design 

and  excellence  of  workmanship7. 

Among  the  few  articles  of  Athenian  cutlery  to  be  met 
with  in  the  market,  we  found  some  small  knives  and  forks, 
with  white  bone  handles,  inscribed  with  mottoes  in  modern 
Greek,  characteristic  of  the  manners  and  sentiments  of  the 
people  ;  such,  for  example,  as  the  following :  'P/£a  rctvruv 
tm  kkkm  \o-7tv  7]  pXugyvgiu,  "  The  love  of  money  is  the  root  of 

all 


(3)  Pherecrates  ap.  Athen.  Diepnos.  lib.  x. 

(4)  In  Fragment,  ad  Calc.     JEIian. 

(5)  "  Extant  certe  hoditque  antiquiores  urbe  picture  Aides:  in  aedibus  sacris, 
quibus  equidem  nnllas  cequc  demiror  tarn  longo  aevo  durantes  in  orbitate  tecti,  veluti 
recenter."     Plin.  Hist.  Nut.  lib.  xxxv.  torn.  III.  p.  4ig.     L.  Bat.  1635. 

(6)  Cato  ap.  Vel.  Paterc.  lib.  i.  c.  7. 

(7)  The  author  has  not  seen  a  Dissertation  by  the  Able  Lanzi,  which  is  cited  in  a 
work  published  by  the  Society  of  Dilettanti  (entitled  "  Specimens  of  Antient  Sculpture," 
Load.  I8O9.)  as  containing  proof  that  the  Etruscans  {See  the  Observations  facing 
Plate  17.)  "  followed  the  improvements  of  the  Greeks  at  a  respectful  distance,  find  had 
no  pretensions  to  that  venerable  antiquity  in  the  Arts  which  has  been  assigned  to  them." 


•*i+K-M***UJKr&**&*&t*ti*ll'> 


526 


CHAP.  XIII. 


Medals  and 
Gems. 


ATHENS. 

all  evils  "  Mrjfom  %a,ru,(pgovfiv,  "  Fbw  should  despise  no  one.  ' 
For  the  rest,  nothing  can  be  more  wretchedly  supplied  than 
Athens  with  the  most  common  articles  of  use  or  convenience. 
The  artists  employed  for  the  British  Ambassador  were  under 
the  necessity  of  sending  to  Smyrna  to  obtain  a  wheeled  cart 
for  moving  the  marbles  to  the  Pirceeus,  and  for  all  the 
materials  and  implements  wanted  in  preparing  cases  to 
contain  them.  No  ladders  could  be  found,  nor  any  instru- 
ments proper  for  making  them.  It  was  not  possible  to 
procure  the  most  ordinary  domestic  utensils,  nor  a  single 
article  of  curriery1. 

Specimens  of  antient  art  are  less  rare.  A  goldsmith  sold  to 
us  some  beautiful  gold  medals,  of  Alexander  and  of  Philip,  for 
double  their  weight  in  Venetian  sequins.  He  had  several  gems 
of  great  beauty  in  his  possession,  but  he  estimated  them  as  if 
he  intended  to  make  his  fortune  by  the  sale  of  them.  Some 
of  these  are  perhaps  now  in  England.  One  of  them  was 
a  small  red  and  white  sardonyx  cameo ;  the  subject,  Jupiter, 
in   his   war  with  the  Giants,  hurling  the  thunder ;  the  god 

being 


(l)  A  couple  of  old  Turkish  saddles,  which  had  belonged  to  the  late  Mr.Tweddell, 
were  first  recommended  and  afterwards  sold  to  us  by  Spiridion  Logotheti,  the  English 
Consul,  at  an  enormous  price,  as  his  own  property  :  possession  in  Athens,  as  elsewhere, 
with  regard  to  Mr.  Tweddell's  effects,  being  considered  equal  to  "  nine  points  of  the 
law."  He  knew  very  well  that  our  future  travels  in  Greece  depended,  in  a  great  measure, 
upon  this  acquisition,  and  he  took  care  to  profit  by  the  occasion.  All  subsequent  travellers 
have  noticed  his  rapacity.  When  Stuart  was  in  Athens,  he  met  with  similar  treatment 
from  our  Consul :  and  as  long  as  these  situations  are  held  by  Greeks,  Englishmen  who 
visit  the  country  will  be  liable  to  their  exactions.  Hardly  a  day  passed  without  a  demand 
from  this  man  for  money,  under  some  pretext  or  other.  This  Note  is  therefore  inserted 
as  a  caution  to  the  number  of  our  countrymen  now  visiting  Greece;  that  they  may 
have  as  little  intercourse  as  possible  with  Greeks  calling  themselves  English  Consuls,  or 
really  acting  in  that  capacity. 


ATHENS. 


527 


being  represented  in  a  car,  with  four  horses :    the  work-     chap,  xm, 

manship  of  this  cameo  was  exceedingly  fine2.     The  author 

also  obtained  here,   for  forty  piastres,  the  fine  silver  tetra- 

drachm  of  Lysimachus,  exhibiting  the  portrait  of  Alexander 

the  Great,  which  he  caused  to  be  engraved  for  a  Dissertation 

upon  the   Soros  brought  from  Alexanders   Tomb;  and   he 

afterwards   procured,    from   an    Albanian    family,  a   silver 

medal  of  Athens,  of  equal  size,   and  almost  equal  beauty,     symbol  of  the 

x  void  Amphora 

The  well-known  symbol  of  the  void  Amphora,  lying  horizon-  explained. 
tally  upon  the  reverses  of  Athenian  medals,  has  never  received 
any  satisfactory  illustration.  It  is  accompanied  by  an  owl, 
and  the  bird  is  represented  sitting  upon  the  vessel.  The 
mythological  principle  implied  by  the  one  may  therefore  be 
supposed  to  have  an  allusion  also  in  the  other;  and  that 
this  is  true,  and  that  the  principle  so  expressed  was  passive 
as  to  its  nature,  may  be  clearly  shewn  by  reference  to  a 
few  facts.  The  owl  was  the  symbol  of  Pallas,  because  it 
denoted  the  privation  or  the  absence  of  light ;  and  the  author 
has  proved,  upon  a  former  occasion 3,  that  Pallas,  or  the 
whole  body  of  female  Divinities  whom  this  Goddess  was 
supposed  to  personify,  or  Night,  or  Silence,  or  Death,  or 
any  other  sign  of  privation,  was  but  a  type  of  the  passive 
principle  :  consequently,  the  void  amphora,  or  the  Gorgonian 
head  (which  Pallas  bore  upon  her  aegis,  and  which  also 
often  appears  with  the  amphora  upon  the  medals  of  Athens), 

or 


H 


(2)  The  same  subject  is  represented,  but  with  the  addition  of  the  Giants  and  their 
serpent  legs,  precisely  after  the  same  manner,  by  the  fine  antique  engraved  in  the 
Paris  edition  of  Winkelmann's  works.  Voxj.  CEuvrcs  completes  de  Winkelmann,  torn.  IL 
liv.  iv.  c.  8.  p.  115.     Paris,  An  2. 

(3)  See  "  Greek  Marbles,"  p.  30.    also  Append,  p.  72. 


528 


ATHENS. 


chap.  xiii.  or  the  owl,  or  the  mythological  principle  denoted  by  any 
one  of  these,  was  an  allusion  to  the  sleep  of  Nature,  and 
must  have  been  considered  as  the  memento  mori  of  the 
Pagan  world.  For  a  decisive  proof  of  this,  it  may  be  urged, 
that  the  form  of  the  amphora  itself  was  sometimes  given  to 
the  Stele,  as  a  sepulchral  monument1.  A  tomb  was  opened 
in  the  South  of  Russia,  containing  on  either  side  of  it  a  void 
amphora  leaning  against  the  Soros"1.  Sometimes  the  Antients 
represented  a  winged  Sphinx  as  sitting  upon  an  empty 
amphora*;  and  the  Sphinx,  as  it  is  well  known,  is  one  of 
the  sepulchral  monuments  in  the  great  cemetery  of  Memphis. 
The  same  vessel  was  made  an  accompaniment  of  Charon  and 
Hermes  when  conducting  to  Hades  the  souls  of  the  dead,  as 
they  are  represented  upon  the  gems  of  Greece4. 

Proceeding  through  the  inhabited  part  of  the  city, 
towards  the  north-west,  a  little  beyond  the  Corinthian 
structure  to  which  we  have  so  lately  alluded,  we  came  to 
an  extensive  Ruin,  encumbered  with  modern  buildings, 
which   Stuart,  from  the   imperfect  survey  he  was  able  to 

ptoicmaum.       make  of  it,  considered  as    the  Gymnasium  of  Ptolemy'. 

Its 


(1)  A  marble  amphora  of  this  description  is  in  the  Collection  of  Greek  Marbla  at 
Cambridge:  it  was  found  upon  the  shore  of  the  Propontis ;  and  presented  by  Speacer 
Smith,  Esq.  late  Minister  Plenipotentiary  at  the  Ottoman  Porte,  brother  of  Sir 
Sidney  Smith. 

(2)  The  place  is  called  Ovidiopol  by  the  Russians.  There  is  an  engraved  representa- 
tion of  the  interior  of  the  tomb  in  Pallas's  Travels  through  the  South  of  Russia, 
vol.  II.  p.  244. 

(3)  Voy.  Recherches  sur  l'Origin  des  Arts,  &c. 

(4)  .See  the  Vignette  to  this  Chapter ;  from  a  scarabcean  gem  in  the  autlor's 
possession.  Mercnry,  in  this  representation,  appears  to  be  offering  the  cake  of  four 
and  honey  to  appease  Cerberus.  Fid.  Aristoph.  in  Lysist.  v.  601.  Schol.  ib.  Ic.  in 
Eccles.  v.  534. 

(5)  See  vol.  III.  p.  3.  Antiq.  of  Athens.    Lond.  1794. 


ATHENS. 

Its  vicinity  to  the  Temple  of  Theseus  renders  this  Ihighly 
probable.  Stuart  indeed  speaks  of  its  plan;  but  he  has  not 
given  it.  Concealed  as  it  is  by  dwellings,  and  greatly 
dilapidated,  we  have  not  even  attempted  to  supply  what 
that  able  architect  and  inquisitive  traveller  did  not  feel  him- 
self authorised,  from  the  state  of  the  Ruin,  to  communicate. 
As  we  passed  through  the  town,  there  was  hardly  a 
house  that  had  not  some  little  marble  fragment  of  antient 
sculpture  stuck  in  its  front,  over  the  door ;  and  since  most 
of  the  houses  have  court-yards,  where  the  objects  within 
are  concealed  from  the  observation  of  passengers  in  the 
streets,  many  valuable  antiquities  will  be  brought  to  light 
as  Athens  becomes  more  visited.  The  few  articles  which 
we  collected,  during  our  residence  here,  may  be  con- 
sidered as  promising  indications  of  future  acquisitions  of 
the  same  nature.  In  the  yard  belonging  to  the  house  where 
we  resided,  there  were  two  Bas-reliefs ;  and  although  the 
workmanship  in  each  of  them  is  not  characterized  by  the 
masterly  style  and  execution  which  distinguishes  the  sculpture 
in  the  Acropolis,  yet  it  is  easy  to  perceive  that  they  have  been 
touched  by  the  hand  of  an  Athenian  artist.  They  were  both 
given  to  us  by  our  hostess  the  first  day  after  our  arrival  ;  and 
they  are  now  in  the  University  Library  at  Cambridge.  One 
of  them  represents  the  initiation  of  Hercules  by  a  priestess 
of  Ceres';  and  it  is  singular  that  the  figure  of  Hercules  is 
draped.  The  other  exhibits  a  female  figure,  seated,  to  whom 
a  male  is  presenting  a  new-born  infant.    The  Grecians  were 

accustomed 


Antient  * 
Marbles. 


(5)  This  ceremony  is  said  to  have  taken  place,  not  at  Eleusis,  but  at  the  Temple  of 
Ceres  in  Agra,    where  the  lesser  mysteries  were  celebrated.     Vid.  Stephan.  in    Lib. 
Meursii  de  Populis  Attiar,  ap.  Gronov.  Thes.  Grcec.  Antiq.  vol.  IV.  p.  6'S3.  L.  Ba  1. 11 699. 
VOL.   III.  3  Y 


9W*:  ^fT***  »j»wp^i"j»*lim  TT"  ".,Tr     WJH 


<'.%^»w-,c*.TNB>i.'*;>-,>».'f,>t>v>l»Sr.^»W,-* 


530 


CHAP.  XIII. 


ATHENS. 

accustomed  to  consign  their  newly-born  children  to  the 
tutelar  care  of  some  Deity,  upon  the  fifth  day  after  their 
birth :  upon  this  occasion  they  went  in  white  robes,  with 
their  feet  bare.  But  the  figure  in  this  bas-relief  carrying 
the  child  may  allude  to  a  circumstance  which  occurred  in 
the  life  of  Caligula,  who  placed  his  infant  daughter, 
Livia  Drusilla,  in  the  lap  of  the  protecting  Minerva.  The 
sculpture  is  remarkable  for  the  ease  and  freedom  which 
it  displays.  It  is  a  very  uncommon  circumstance  to  have 
these  things  pointed  out  by  a  Turk :  but  \vc  had  this 
good  luck ;  for  passing  the  door  of  a  Turkish  house,  its 
owner  hailed  us  with  the  usual  appellation,  —  "  Djowrs  !  here 
is  some  rubbish  suited  to  your  taste :  take  it  off  my  premises  /." 
He  had  found  in  his  garden,  among  some  old  foundations, 
the  half  of  a  marble  bas-relief,  which  represented  the  annual 
procession  of  the  Athenian  citizens,  with  their  youth,  to  tie 
ceremony  of  initiation  at  Eleusis  ;  and  for  a  trifle  he  allowed 
us  to  remove  it,  seeming  to  be  quite  happy  in  getting  rid  of 
a  stone  on  which  human  figures  were  delineated.  We  saw 
also,  in  one  of  the  streets,  an  antient  marble  Stele,  lying 
horizontally,  and  serving  as  a  horse-block.  When  we  drew 
near  to  examine  it,  we  discovered  that  it  had  been  placed 
upon  the  Tomb  of  Euclid  of  Hermione,  whom  we  found 
to  be  represented  upon  the  upper  part  of  the  pillar,  standing 
beneath  an  arch,  in  a  philosopher's  habit,  and  with  a  sere II 
in  his  hand.  Beneath  this  figure,  near  to  the  base  of  tie 
pillar,  and  upon  the  part  of  the  stone  which  must  have  been 
buried  when  the  Ste'le  was  erected,  we  observed  the  usual 
animal  symbol  of  Anubis,  the  infernal  Mercury,  in  the  foitn 
of  a   dog,  rudely  sketched  upon  the  surface;  and  over  tie 

arched 


A  T  HENS. 

arched  recess,  containing  the  figure  of  the  philosopher,  we 
read,  in  very  legible  characters,  this  Inscription  in  the  Doric 
dialect,  remarkable  for  the  variation  in  the  genitive  case  : 

EYKAIAAZ  EYKAIAOY 
EPM I ONEYZ 

"  EUCLID    SON    OF    EUCLID    OF    HERMIONE." 

Of  two  celebrated  philosophers  who  bore  this  name,  the 
disciple  of  Socrates,  as  the  first,  was  a  native  of  Megara; 
and  the  mathematician,  as  the  second,  flourished  at 
Alexandria.  The  manner  of  the  writing,  the  style  of  the 
sculpture,  and  the  form  of  the  arch,  might  induce  an  opinion 
that  this  Stele  was  not  of  antient  date  sufficient  for  either 
of  their  sepulchres;  yet  it  may  be  observed  that  Spon1  has 
given,  from  a  medal  struck  at  Megara,  a  portrait  of  Euclid 
the  Wrangler,  with  his  name  on  one  side,  and  that  of 
Hadrian  on  the  other ;  and  Bellori  has  published  a  different 
coin  (MErAPEXIN)  with  the  head  of  Euclid,  as  Aulus  Gellius* 
describes  it,  "  rkd  vclatus,"  with  which  the  figure  on  the 
Stele  agrees.  Both  representations  may  therefore  have 
been  intended  to  represent  the  same  individual;  and  what 
further  confirms  this  is,  that  whilst  the  reverse  of  the  medal 
exhibits  the  figure  of  Diana,  bearing  in  either  hand  a  torch, 
as  the  symbol  of  the  lower  regions  and  of  night,  so  the  dog 
on  the  Stele,  the  animal  figure  of  Anubis,  is  also  that  of 
Sirius  at  its  heliacal  setting  :  a  significant  and  appropriate 
emblem  of  the  philosopher  descending  into  the  infernal 
shades.     These  marbles,  together  with  our  other  subsequent 

acqui- 


531 


CHAP.  XIII. 


(l)  Miscell.  Erud.  Antiq.  sec.  iv. 


(2)  Lib.  vi.  c.  10. 


532  ATHENS. 

?HAP-XI"-,  acquisitions  in  bas-reliefs  and  fragments  found  in  Athens, 
amounting  to  fourteen  pieces  from  this  city  alone,  are  now 
in  the  University  Library  at  Cambridge  :  and  as  the  author's 
account  of  them  is  already  before  the  public,  it  will  be 
unnecessary  in  this  place  to  notice  the  rest1. 

We  accompanied  Signor  Lusieri  to  the  Theseum  ;  and, 
having  obtained  admission  to  the  interior  of  the  temple, 
paid  a  melancholy  visit  to  the  grave  of  that  accomplished 
scholar  whose  name  we  had  found  inscribed  upon  the  pillars 
of  Sunium;   the  exemplary  and  lamented  Tweddell*.     it 


Theseum. 


Grave  of 
Tweddelju 


was 


(1)  See    "Greek   Marbles/'  Nos-  x.  xi.   xn.  xv.   xvn.    xvm.    xxn.  xxvn.  xxx. 
xxxui.  xxxv.  xxxvi.  xxxvu.     Camlridgc,  I8O9. 

(2)  John   Tweddell,    the  eldest  son  of   Francis  Tweddell,  Esq.  of  Threcpwood 
in   the  County  of  Northumberland,  was  born   on  the   1st  of  June  I/69;   and  after 
passing  through  the  usual  course  of  preparatory  education,   was  entered   at  Trinity 
College,  Cambridge,  where  he  distinguished  himself  by  such  proofs  of  original  genius 
as  are,  perhaps,  without  example,  even  in  the  records  of  that  learned  Society.     As  a 
candidate  for  University  honours,  his  <f  Prolusiones  Academict$"  attest  his'success  to  have 
been    equally  brilliant    and  extraordinary,  and   supersede    the   necessity  of  particular 
illustration.     Mr.  Tweddell  was  elected  a  Fellow  of  Trinity  College  in  1/92,  and  soon 
afterwards  entered  himself  a  Student  of  Lincoln's  Inn,  where  he  kept  his  terms  and 
continued  to  reside  until  the  year  17Q5,  when  he  left  England  to  commence  his  travels 
on  the  continent  of  Europe — and   met   with   that   untimely  fate  which  has  mixed  his 
ashes  with   those  of  the  sages  and  philosophers  of  Greece.     He  visited  Switzerland, 
Germany,  most  parts  of  the  Russian  Empire,  and   particularly  the  Crimea,   where  his 
intercourse  with  Professor  Pallas  was  of  the  most  intimate  kind,  and  had  so  endeared 
him  to  that  amiable  scholar,  that   the  admiration  with  which  he  spoke  of  him  partook 
of  the  tenderness  and  affection  of  a  father.     From   the  borders  of  the  Euxine,    where 
his    researches  were  both  diligent  and  productive,   he  proceeded  to   Constantinople ; 
and  after  spending  some  part  of   the  summer  of  1798  under  the   hospitable  roof  of 
Spencer  Smith,  Esq.  the  English  Minister,  he  took   his   departure   for  the  Grecian 
Islands ;    and  having   traversed  the  provinces  of  Macedonia  and  Thessaly,  arrived  a: 
Athens,  where,   after  a  residence  of  several  months,   he  reached  the  period  of  all  his 
learned  labours,  on  the  25th  of  July  ]  799. 

Mr.  Tweddell,   independent  of  the  advantages  which  his  own  merit  secured  for  bin 

in  the  countries  which  he  visited,  possessed  recommendations  and  facilities  of  a  superioi 

kind  for  conducting  his  learned  pursuits  ;   and  his  industry  keeping  pace  with  his  talenb 

and 


ATHENS.  533 

was  simply  a  small  oblong  heap  of  earth,  like  to  those  over  chap.  xm. 
the  common  graves  in  all  our  English  church-yards,  without 
stone,  or  inscription  of  any  kind.  The  body,  too,  had  been 
carelessly  interred  :  we  were  told  that  it  did  not  lie  more 
than  three  or  four  feet  beneath  the  surface.  The  part  of  the 
temple  where  it  has  been  buried  is  now  converted  into 
a  Greek  church,  dedicated  to  St.  George ;  but  as  it  is  left 
open  during  particular  times  of  the  year,  and  is  always 
liable  to  be  entered  by  foraging  animals  who  creep  into  such 
retreats,  we  thought  it  probable  that  the  body  would  be 
disturbed  unless  further  precaution  were  used ;  and  at  any 
rate  it  was  proper  that  some  stone  should  be  laid  upon  the 
spot.  Having  therefore  obtained  permission  to  take  up  the 
coffin,  and  Lusieri  promising  to  superintend  the  work,  we  sat 
about  providing  a  proper  covering  for  the  grave  ;  promising 
to  send  an  inscription  worthy  of  the  name  it  was  destined 
to  commemorate.    Large  blocks  of  Pentelican  marble  from 

the 


and  opportunities,  his  Collections  and  Manuscripts  are  known  to  have  been  extensive 
and  singularly  valuable.  Perhaps  no  traveller  of  modern  times  has  enjoyed  in  an  equal 
degree  the  means  of  investigating  the  Antiquities  of  Greece.  Thai  the  literary  property, 
therefore,  of  this  gentleman,  after  being  in  the  undisputed  custody  of  the  British  Ambas- 
sador at  Constantinople,  should  absolutely  have  disappeared  in  toto,  and  eluded  the  most 
diligent  inquiries  of  his  family  and  friends,  presents  a  subject  for  the  deepest  regret,  and 
is  a  circumstance  in  itself  of  the  most  unaccountable  nature.  Upon  this  point,  however, 
the  author  refrains  from  saying  all  that  he  might,  in  the  expectation  of  seeing  this  strange 
mystery  unfolded  by  a  kindred  hand  which  may  justly  aspire  to  the  best  information. 
He  will  therefore  close  this  imperfect  sketch  of  his  accomplished  friend,  with  briefly 
observing,  that  the  endowments  of  the  scholar,  in  this  instance,  were,  in  a  singular  degree, 
associated  with  those  polished  but  unaffected  manners  which  give  them  peculiar  lustre ;  and 
recommended  yet  more  substantially  by  the  addition  of  the  most  amiable  and  engaging 
virtues.  As  a  consolotary  expectation,  he  believes  he  may  venture  to  add,  that  the 
friends  of  Mr.  Tweddell  have  a  prospect  of  being  gratified  with  a  selection  of  his 
correspondence. 


■      ■      '     • ■     ■ 


534 


ATHENS. 


Description  of 
the  Temple. 


chap.  xiii.  the  Parthenon,  which  had  been  sawed  from  the  bas-reliefs 
intended  for  our  Ambassador,  were  then  lying  in  the 
Acropolis  ready  for  the  purpose :  we  therefore  begged  for 
one  of  these  ;  and  before  we  left  Athens  every  thing  had 
been  settled,  and  seemed  likely  to  proceed  according  to  our 
wishes'. 

This  beautiful  Doric  temple,  more  resembling,  in  the 
style  of  its  architecture,  the  temples  of  Paestum  than  that 
of  Minerva  in  the  Acropolis,  and  the  most  entire  of  any  of 
the  remaining  structures  of  Antient  Greece  were  it  not  for 
the  damage  which  the  sculptures  have  sustained,  may  be 
considered  as  still  perfect.  The  ruined  state  of  the  metopes 
and  frieze  has  proved  indeed  a  very  fortunate  circumstance ; 
for  it  was  owing  solely  to  this  that  the  building  escaped  the 
ravages  which  were  going  on  in  the  Parthenon.  Lusieri 
told  us  there  was  nothing  but  what  was  considered  as  too 
much  mutilated  to  answer  for  the  expense  and  difficulty  of 

taking 


(l)  A  curious  sort  of  contest  has,  however,  since  impeded  the  work.  Other  English 
travellers  arrived  in  Athens;  and  a  dispute  arose,  fomented  by  the  feuds  and  jealousies 
of  rival  artists  and  opposite  parties  in  politics,  both  as  to  the  nature  of  the  inscription, 
and  the  persons  who  should  be  allowed  tc  accomplish  the  work.  At  length,  it  is  said 
that,  owing  to  the  exertions  of  Lord  Bynn,  and  another  most  enterprising  traveller 
Mr.  John  Fiott,  of  St.  John's  College,  Cambridge,  the  stone  has  been  laid  ;  and  the 
following  beautiful  Epitaph,  composed  by  Mr.  Walpole  in  1805,  has  been  inscribec 
thereon. 

Ei/'ti£«c   £v   <j>difjLtvoi(Ti'  p.drr\v  Zo^irjc  itot   E^piipat 

"AvdfCt,     KCtl    CTE    VEOV    Moi/ff     C(j>l'\l]<TE    fld'tt]V . 

'AXXa  fiovov  toi  cru/ua  to  yjj.vov  dfityiKukvirru 

Tvfifios'  rrjv  \pv\rjp  ovpatos  dlirve  *%"• 
'Hp.iv  0'  oi  <T£  (j)i\oi,  (f>i\ov  tk,  Kara  £dnpv  ytovrte, 

Myijjua   tyikotypoavvt]*;,   yrk^pov,  ocvpopeda, 
'HEv  y  opus  Kal  rtpirvov   evuv  tout  iariv,  'AQHNAIi 
''Us  av,   J&ptTavvoc  'euv,   ceiosai  tv  tT7rocit{. 


ATHENS. 

taking  it  down2.  The  entire  edifice  is  of  Pentelican 
marble :  it  stands  east  and  west,  the  principal  front  facing 
the  east ;  and  it  is  that  kind  of  building  which  was  called 
by  antient  architects,  as  it  is  expressed  in  the  language 
of  Vitruvius  and  explained  by  Stuart3,  a  Peripteros ;  that 
is  to  say,  it  has  a  portico  of  six  columns  in  each  front,  and 
on  each  side  a  range  of  eleven  columns,  exclusive  of  the 
columns  on  the  angles.  All  these  columns  remain  in  their 
original  position,  excepting  two  that  separated  the  portico 
from  the  pronaos,  which  have  been  demolished.  Every 
circumstance  respecting  them  has  already  been  often  de- 
tailed. Like  all  pillars  raised  according  to  the  most  antient 
Doric  style  of  building,  they  are  without  bases  or  pedestals; 
standing,  with  inexpressible  dignity  and  simplicity4,  upon  the 

pavement 


535 


CHAP.  XIII. 


(2)  Accordingly  we  read, — "  As  the  walls  and  columns  of  this  monument  are  in  their 
original  position,  no  part  of  the  sculpture  has  been  displaced,  nor  the  minutest  fragment 
of  any  kind  separated  from  the  building."  {Memorandum,  p.  18.  Lond.  1811.) 
There  is  nothing  said  here  of  the  "  impending  ruin  "  {Ibid.  p.  8.)  to  which  the  remaining 
sculpture  is  exposed  ;  nothing  of  "  the  zeal  of  the  early  Christians"  {p.  11.)  and  "  the 
barbarism  of  the  Turks  :"  but  we  are  told  that  "  the  temple  itself"  {p.  19.)  is  very 
inferior  in  decorative  sculpture  to  the  Parthenon ,-"  and  this  remark,  made  with  great 
naivete,  most  happily  explains  the  hair-lreadth  escape  of  the  building  from  the  ill-judged 
rapacity  which  has  tended  to  the  ruin  of  the, noblest  monuments  of  Greece.         , 

(3)  See  Stuart's  Athens,  vol.  III.  p.  5.    Lond.  1/Q4. 

(4)  "  The  awful  dignity  and  grandeur  in  this  kind  of  temple,  arising  from  the  perfect 
agreement  of  its  parts,  strikes   the   beholder  with  a  sensation  which  he  may  look  for  in 

vain  in  buildings  of  any  other  description There  is  a  certain   appearance  of 

eternal  duration  in  this  species  of  edifice,  that  gives  a  solemn  and  majestic  feeling,  while 

every  part  is  perceived  to  contribute  its  share  to  this  character  of  durability 

These  considerations  will  convince  us  that  no  material  change  can  be  made  in  the  pro- 
portions of  the  genuine  Doric,  without  destroying  its  peculiar  character."  See  Reveley's 
Pref  to  vol.  III.  of  Stuarts  Athens,  p.  14.    Lond.  I7g4. 


536 


ATHENS. 


chap.  xin.  pavement  of  the  covered  walk  around  the  cell  of  the  temple;. 
Some  of  the  metopes  represent  the  labours  of  Hercules  ; 
others,  the  exploits  of  Theseus ;  and  there  arc  some  whicln 
were  never  adorned  with  any  sculpture.  Above  the  antae 
of  the  pronaos  is  a  sculptural  frieze,  the  subject  of  which 
cannot  now  be  determined ;  and  the  battle  of  the  Centaurs  and 
Lapithae,is  represented  upon  a  similar  frieze  of  the  posticus:. 
In  the  tympanum  of  the  pediment,  over  the  eastern  front., 
Stuart  observed  several  holes  in  the  marble,  where  rrietal 
cramps  had  been  fixed  for  sustaining  sculpture  in  entire 
relief,  as  over  the  eastern  entrance  to  the  Parthenon1.  The 
action  of  the  atmosphere  in  this  fine  climate  upon  the 
marble  has  diffused  over  the  whole  edifice,  as  over  all  the 
buildings  in  the  Acropolis,  a  warm  ochreous  tint,  which  is 
peculiar  to  the  ruins  of  Athens :  it  bears  no  resemblance  to 
that  black  and  dingy  hue  which  is  acquired  by  all  works 
in  stone  and  marble  when  they  have  been  exposed  to  the 
open  air  in  the  more  northern  countries  of  Europe,  and 
especially  in  England.  Perhaps  to  this  warm  colour,  so 
remarkably  characterizing  the  remains  of  antient  buildings  at 
Athens,  Plutarch  alluded,  in  that  beautiful  passage-  cited  by- 
Chandler, 


(1)  See  Stuart's  Athens,  vol.  III.  p.  2.     Lond.  17Q4. 

(2)  "Ode v  kciI  /xdWov  6av/xd^rrai  ret  TlepiK\cov<;  ipya  rrpSt  ttoKvv  -^povov  h>  6\iy<p 
yti'd/ueva.  KctWet  fj.tv  yap  [Kairrov  tvdvs  ?)V  tots  dpyalov,  at;  ftp  Si  fttyP1  vvv 
7rp6rT(j>aTdv  can  Kal   veovpyov'    ovtm>;   tTravdu   Tit;  KttivdTiy;  del   dducrov   vrro  tov   y/pdvou 

BiaTvpovtxu  t,}v  tyiv,  ftiriEP  AEI0AAE2  IINEYMA  KAI  YYXHN  AFHPft 
KATAMEMIFMEXHN  TUN  EPH1N-  EXONTflN.  Plutarch,  in  Vit.  Pericl. 
torn.  I.  p.  352.     Lond.  1/2Q. 


ATHENS. 

Chandler',  when  he  affirmed,  that  the  structures  of  Pericles 
possessed  a  peculiar  and  unparalleled  excellence  of  cha- 
racter; "  a  certain  freshness  bloomed  upon  them,  and 
preserved  their  faces  uninjured,  as  if  they  possessed  a  never- 
fading  spirit,  and  had  a  soul  insensible  to  age."  In  the 
description  given  of  the  These'um  by  Pausanias,  he  mentions 
TPA<t>AI  among  the  decorations4;  and  Chandler  gives  this  word 
as  he  found  it  in  the  original  text  of  that  author5,  without 
rendering  it,  as  some  have  done,  "pictures,"  or  "painted 
representations."  The  very  subjects  of  those  representations 
correspond  with  the  remaining  sculptures  upon  the  metopes 
and  frieze  ;  and  Mycon,  who  is  mentioned  as  the  artist, 
was  a  statuary  as  well  as  a  painter.  The  history  of  the  hero, 
to  whose  memor}r  this  magnificent  building  was  erected, 
resembles,  as  to  its  probability,  one  of  the  extravagant  fictions 
of  the  "  Arabian  Nights  ;*'  and  may  be  regarded  as  upon  an 
equality  with  the  "  Voyages  of  Sinbad,"  or  the  "  Story  of 
Aladdin."  That  it  was  originally  a  tomb,  like  all  other 
Grecian  temples,  can  admit  of  no  doubt  :  eight  hundred 
years  had  elapsed,  when  Cimon  removed  the  precious 
reliques  from  the  Isle  of  Scyros,  which  were  here  en- 
shrined ;  and  the  circumstances  of  the  brazen-headed  lance 
and  sword,  found  with  the  bones  said  to  have  belonged 
to   Theseus,   denote  weapons   of   the  remotest  ages0:    but 

the 

(3)  Trav.  in  Greece,  c.  9.  p.  39.     Oxford,  1776. 

(4)  I  patyai  Se  eioi,  k.  t.  X.     Itypairrui  ct  cv  tu>  tqv  Qrjatax:  itpv  kciI  i\  Hevravpuv 
Kul  >}  Aamdaiy  fid^)).      Pausaniae  Attica,  c.  17 '•  p.  40.     Lips.  l6g6. 

(5)  Trav.  in  Greece,  c.  1-4.  p.  71.      Orf.  1/76. 

(o)   EivptHt)  cc  d)JK)/  re  fnydXuv  rrcSfxaror,,  alvuij  rt  TrapaKei^.tv>)  ^a\K>j,  xal  £160$, 
Plut.  in  Vit.  Thes.  torn.  I.  p.  35.     Lond.  1729. 
VOL.  III.  3  Z 


537 


CHAP.  XIII. 


538 


ATHENS. 


cHAP.xiir.  the  manner  in  which  the  place  of  his  original  intermenit 
had  been  pointed  out1,  calls  to  mind  the  juggling  of  ;a 
later  period,  when  the  mother  of  Constantine  sought  t<o 
discover  the  real  timber  on  which  the  Messiah  had  suffered 
crucifixion  :  so  easy  has  it  been  in  every  age  to  gratify 
a  credulous  and  superstitious  people,  by  delusions  of  pre- 
tended miracles,  and  dreams  of  a  particular  Providence 
interrupting  the  order  of  Nature  for  purposes  the  most  con- 
temptible; although,  in  the  history  of  the  world,  few  instances 
have  occurred  where  a  monument  of  equal  magnificence 
has  resulted  from  any  idle  and  stupid  fiction.  The  buildinjg 
is  believed  to  bear  date  from  the  event  mentioned  hj 
Plutarch,  both  in  his  Life  of  Cimon,  and  of  Theseus;  wheni, 
after  the  conquest  of  Scyros,  the  son  of  Miltiades  arrived  iin 
Athens  bearing  the  mouldering  bones  and  weapons  he  had 
so  marvellously  discovered.  They  were  received  by  the 
Athenians,  says  Plutarch2,  as  if  Theseus  himself  had  returned 
among  them.  The  solemnity  of  their  interment  took  place 
in  the  very  midst  of  the  city,  near  to  the  Gymnasium9; 
accompanied  by  every  splendid  pomp  and  costly  sacrifice  wTith 
which  the  Athenians,  of  all  people,  were  the  most  ready  to 
appease  the  manes  of  a  departed  hero.  This  event  happened 
during  the  Archonship  of  Apsephion ;  so  that  the  These'um 

has 


(1)  THi>  cc  ical\a(5eiv  diropia,  Kal  yvutvai  tov  rdtyov,  dfxt^lai  Kal  y^uXeirdrtiTt  tg>v 
IvoiKovvToyy  ftapftdpuv.  ov  fitv  d\\d  Kal  Kifivv  iXwv  tijv  vtjaov,  wf  iv  rote  ircpl  tKtivov 
yLypaTrTui,  Kal  <j>t\ort/Liov/,iei>oc  Qavevpuv,  AETOT  TINA  TOIION  BOTNOEIAH 
KOI1TONT02,  we  <pu(T(,  T(f  arofxari  kuI  diaoriXXovroe  tok,  ovv'^i,  Qiiai  tiv\  ri/vjy 
Mfxtipomjactf;,  dviaKaxj/sv.     Plut.  in  Vit.  Thes.  p.  35.     Lond.  1729. 

(2)  '' Slain p  avrov  tiravtp^dfitvov  eh  to  uarv.    Ibid. 

(3)  Tlapd  to  vvv  yvp.vdcnov.     Ibid. 


ATHENS. 


539 


has  now  braved  the  attacks  of  time,  of  earthquakes,  and  chap,  xm. 
of  barbarians,  during  a  lapse  of  considerably  above  two 
thousand  years4;  and  its  relative  position  with  regard  to  the 
Gymnasium  renders  it  an  important  point  of  observation, 
whence  the  situation  of  many  other  buildings  of  the  antient 
city  may  be  ascertained. 

Leaving  the  Theseum,  we  again  visited  the  Areopagus ;  and 
we  detached  from  the  rock  some  specimens  of  the  remark- 
able aggregate  whereof  this  eminence  consists.  All  the 
lower  part  of  it,  as  before  mentioned,  consists  of  breccia  ; 
but  we  found  here  a  sparry  carbonate  of  lime,  of  a  honey 
colour,  exhibiting,  by  fracture,  imperfect  prisms  ranged 
parallel  to  each  other.  From  the  Areopagus  we  proceeded 
to  a  little  chapel,  situated  upon  the  spot  where  the  antient 
PiryEean  Gate  of  the  city  formerly  stood :  near  to  this,  as  piraeanGate. 
Pausanias  relates5,  there  was  a  tomb  with  an  equestrian  statue 
by  Praxiteles.  The  place  where  the  gate  wras  situated  may  still 
be  discerned ;  and  also  a  part  of  the  northern  limb  of  the 
"  long  legs,"  puKgu  cxixvi,  extending  from  the  city  to  the  sea. 
We  then  ascended  towards  the  north  of  the  Pirceean  Gate6, 
where  may  still   be   seen,  in  a  state  of  the  most  admirable 

preser- 


(4)  The  arrival  of  Cimon  with  the  bones  of  Theseus  happened  in  the  same  year  as 
the  birth  of  Socrates  ;  that  is  to  say,  in  the  fourth  year  of  the  77th  Olympiad,  469  years 
before  Christ,  according  to  Corsini.  iEschylus  and  Sophocles  then  disputed  the  prize 
of  Tragedy,  which  was  adjudged  to  Sophocles.  (Fid.  Chronicon  ex  Marmoribus 
Aru  tide  Harris,  Epoch.  57 .)  If  we  allow,  therefore,  ten  years  for  the  building  of  the 
temple,  (and  Jive  has  been  considered  a  sufficient  number,)  this  edifice  has  stood  nearly 
twenty-three  centuries. 

(5)  Pausania-  Attica,  c.  2.  p.  6.     Lips.  l6g6. 

(6)  See  the  Plan  of  Athens,  engraved  as  a  Vignette  to  Chap.  XII.    Nos.  1,  and  2. 


Kf  IfllJ  >| 


!»n?7">7< 


540 


ATHEN  S. 

preservation,  the  ground-plot  and  entire  form  of  the  Pjsyx, 
or  antient  place  of  parlement  of  the  Athenians ;  as 
it  was  appropriated  by  Solon  to  the  assemblies  of  the 
citizens1.  This  structure  is  not  likely  to  be  much  affected 
by  the  lapse  of  entire  centuries  :  almost  the  whole  of  it, 
even  to  the  pulpitum  for  the  orators,  which  yet  remains, 
is  an  excavation  of  the  rock;  and  the  several  parts  of 
it  were  carved  in  stone,  of  one  solid  mass,  with  the 
exception  only  of  the  semicircular  area,  the  farthest  part 
of  which  from  the  pulpitum  consists  of  masonry2.  In 
the  perpendicular  surface  of  the  rock,  facing  this  area, 
are  niches  for  the  votive  tablets ;  the  characteristic  and 
most     genuine     marks    of    places    held     in    any    peculiar 

degree 

(1)  Tivvt,,  so  called  cid  to  TrtTrvtcvmaQai  roir  Xcdoaj. 

(2)  That  this  place  was  really  the  Pnyx,  is  now  universally  the  opinion  of  travellers 
who  have  visited  Athens.  It  had  been  called  Areopagus  and  Odeum.  Chandler  was 
the  first  by  whom  it  was  accurately  described.  The  altar  and  stone  pulpit,  which  he 
mentions,  agree  with  its  furniture  as  upon  record.  Chandler  says  these  have  been 
removed  j  but  the  pulpit,  if  not  the  altar,  certainly  remains.  A  more  attentive  examina- 
tion of  the  antiquities  of  Athens,  if  it  effect  no  change  as  to  the  name  now  given  to  this 
place,  will  very  probably  alter  the  appellations  too  hastily  bestowed  upon  some  of  the 
others.  Perhaps  the  Pnyx  may  be  considered  as  better  ascertained  than  almost  any 
remaining  structure  destitute  of  an  inscription  whereby  it  maybe  identified ;  and  for 
this,  the  literary  world  is  mainly  indebted  to  the  Earl  of  Aberdeen,  who  carried  on  a 
very  extensive  examination  of  the  spot,  sparing  no  expense  during  an  excavation  which 
he  made  here,  to  have  this  point  determined.  The  dona  votiva  which  he  discovered  are 
very  remarkable.  (See  the  Extract  from  Mr.  JValpoles  Journal,  p.  403  of  this  Vol.) 
But  the  site  of  the  Odeum  of  Pericles  is  entirely  unknown.  It  must  have 
stood  at  the  termination  of  the  street  of  the  Tripods.  The  situation  of  the 
Prytaneum  remains  also  to  be  determined  ;  and  it  cannot  be  said  that  our  evidence  for 
identifying  the  three  great  buildings,  the  Temple  of  Jupiter  Olympius,  the  Theatre 
of  Regilla,  and  the  Theatre  of  Bacchus,  with  the  remains  which  severally  bear  either 
of  these  appellations,  is  altogether  satisfactory.  There  is  much  to  be  done  by  future 
travellers  ;  and  the  excavations  which  they  may  make,  by  bringing  to  light  many 
valuable  documents,  will  greatly  tend  to  illustrate  the  topography  of  the  city. 


ATHENS. 


541 


degree  of  consideration  throughout  the  whole  of  Antient     chap,  xiii. 
Greece,     and    in    every    country    where    her    colonies    ex- 
tended.      To   approach    the    spot    once    dignified    by   the 
presence   of  the  greatest  Grecian   orators ;    to  set  our  feet 
where    they     stood ;    and    actually    to     behold    the    place 
where   Demosthenes    addressed    the    "  Men    of  Athens," 
calling    to    mind    the    most    memorable   examples    of   his 
eloquence  ;  is  a  gratification  of  an  exalted  nature.     But  the 
feelings  excited   in  viewing  the  Pnyx  peculiarly  affect  the 
hearts  of  Englishmen  :   that  holy  fire,   so  much  dreaded  by 
the   Athenian    tyrants,  and   which    this  place   had  such   a 
remarkable   tendency  to  agitate,  burns  yet  in  Britain  :  it  is 
the   very    soul    of   her    liberties ;    and    it    strengthens    the 
security   of    her   laws ;     giving  eloquence   to    her   senate, 
heroism  to  her  arms,  extension  to  her  commerce,  and  freedom 
to  her  people  :   although  annihilated  in  almost  every  country 
of  the  earth,  it  lives  in  England  ;  and  its  extinction  there, 
like    the   going   out   of   the    sacred  flame    in    the   Temple 
of  Delphi,    would    be   felt   as   a  national    calamity.      The 
circumstances  connected  with  the  history  of  the  Pnyx  prove 
how  difficult  a  thing  it  was  to  subdue   the  love  of  freedom 
among  the  Antient  Grecians.    The  Athenian  tyrants  vainly 
imagined    that  it  originated  solely   in    the   position  of   the 
fijjtcct,  or   stone  pulpit,  whence  the   orators   harangued   the 
people  ;  forgetting  that  it  is  a  natural  principle  implanted  by 
providence  in  the  human  heart.     Under  the  notion  they  had 
thus  conceived,  they  altered  the  plan  of  the  Pnyx :  the  /8^a 
had  been  fronted  towards  the  sea ;   they  fronted  it  towards 
the  land ;  believing  that  a  people  diverted  from  allusions  to 

maritime 


P*T  I  sv*i*^»: 


BUM  HR0S 


542 


CHAP.  XIII. 


ATHENS. 

maritime  affairs  towards  those  of  agricultural  labour  would 
be  more  easy  under  an  oligarchical  dominion1.  The  project 
was  not  attended  with  the  consequences  that  were  expected  ; 
the  same  spirit  yet  prevailed:  but  this  place  was  still 
considered  as  its  source ;  and  at  last,  rinding  that  alterations 
of  the  structure  availed  nothing  towards  its  dissolution,  the 
meetings  in  the  Pnyx  were  entirely  abolished.  The  place 
itself  has,  however,  been  suffered  to  remain  unaltered  to  the 
present  day,  and  may  serve  to  illustrate  passages  in  antient 
authors  which  before  were  but  imperfectly  understood. 
A  very  accurate  design  of  the  structure,  as  it  now  exists, 
has  been  already  published  by  Stuart,  in  which  the  /3^« 
is  represented :  and  if  it  were  possible  to  naturalize  this 
word,  it  might  be  preferable  to  any  other,  as  applied  to  the 
pulpit,  whence  the  Grecian  orators  addressed  the  people. 
Rostrum  is  a  Roman  appellation,  and  introduces  associations 
of  a  foreign  nature:  the  same  remark  applies  to  Tribunal: 
Logdum,  and  Thymele,  are  terms  borrowed  from  the  Grecian 
theatres :  it  is  Berna  only  which,  upon  the  authority  of 
Plutarch,  confines  the  name,  and  fixes  the  attention,  accu- 
rately and  exclusively,  upon  the  throne  of  Grecian  eloquence. 
Here  we  find  the  object  itself  within  the  Pnyx,  fronted 
towards  the  city  and  the  plain,  exactly  as  it  was  left  by 
the  Athenian  Tyrants.      The  altar  is   also  seen ;    forcibly 

illustrating, 

(l)  Ato  Kal  to  (St}/j.a  to  iv  TIvvkI  TTETrottj/xiyov  uvt  cvroj3\eweiv  irpoK  t>)v  OdXaacrav, 
vaTtpov  ol  TpiaKovTa  -pos  Ti)v  ^upav  UTrtarptxpav ,  oiopLtvoi  ti)v  pip  Kurd  dclXarrav 
dp^tjy,  ytvsaiv  avai  3i)p.0KpctTias,  oXiyapviai.  S1  ^ttov  cvoxipuivuv  tov<;  ytupyovvrac. 
Plutarch,  in  Theraist.  p.  268.  torn.  I.    Lond.  172Q. 


A  T  H  E  N  $. 


543 


illustrating,    at    this   hour,    the   following    passage    of    the 
comic  poet: 

'  Ocrng  zga.ru  vvv  rov  XfOov  rov  v  ryji  Tlvvxi. 

From  this  illustrious  memorial  of  Athenian  history, 
we  descended  once  more  to  the  Coele,  or  hollow  ivay,  of 
Pausanias  ;  and,  crossing  the  road  from  the  Pirceeus,  passed 
the  Cryptai  of  the  Hill  of  Muscens,  and  ascended  to  the 
Monument  of  Phijlopappus,  standing  upon  its  summit2. 
There  is  no  account  of  this  structure  by  any  antient  author, 
if  we  except  Pausanias ;  who  merely  says  of  it3,  that  in  the 
place  where  Musceus  was  buried  a  monument  was  afterwards 
erected,  uvdg)  'Svgu,  without  adding  a  syllable  as  to  his  name 
or  history ;  which  is  remarkable,  considering  the  attention 
usually  bestowed  by  him  upon  objects  much  less  worthy 
of  regard.  It  is  within  the  walls  of  the  antient,  although 
at  some  distance  from  those  of  the  modern  city4;  and  the 
view  from  hence  of  the  Citadel  of  Athens,  the  Sinus  Saronicus, 
and  the  neighbouring  territories,  is  very  striking.  Looking 
towards  the  sea,  the  eye  commands  the  ports  of  the  Piraeus, 
Munychia,  and  Phalerus ;  the  isles  of  Salamis  and  JEgina ; 
and  the  mountains  of  Peloponnesus,  as  far  as  the  Gulph  of 
Argos.  The  frequent  mention  of  it  by  other  travellers5, 
added  to  the  beautiful  views  of  its  several  parts  engraved 
for  Stuart's  "Antiquities  of  Athens6,''  render  any  descriptive 
detail  unnecessary.     It  is  supposed,   from    the  inscriptions 

upon 

(2)  See  the  Plan  of  Athens,  as  a  Vignette  to  Chap.  XII.    No.  4. 

(3)  Pausaniae  Attica,  c.  26.  p.  6l.     Lips.  \6gQ. 

(4)  See  the  Plan  ;   Vignette  to  the  preceding  Chapter. 

(5)  See  Wheler,  Spon,  Le  Roy,  Stuart,  Chandler,  &c.  &c. 

(6)  Vol.  III.  chap.  5.  Plates  1,  2,  3,  4,  5,  6,  7,  8,  9,  10,  11.    Lond.  1794. 


CHAP.  XIII. 


Monument  of 
the  Museum. 


544 


CHAP.  XIII. 


ATHENS. 

upon  it1,  that  it  was  erected  in  the  beginning  of  the  second 
century.  Stuart,  in  opposition  to  Wheler  and  Spon,  believed 
it  to  have  been  raised,  not  in  memory  of  a  single  individual2, 
but  "  in  honour  of  the  last  king  of  Commagene,  and  more 
than  one  of  his  descendants."  It  originally  consisted  of 
three  compartments  between  four  Corinthian  pilasters  ;  that 
is  to  say,  of  an  arched  recess,  containing  a  central  sitting 
figure,  and  having  a  square  niche  on  each  side  of  it.  Below 
these  appeared  three  superb  sculptures  in  relief;  that  in  the 
centre,  beneath  the  sitting  statue,  exhibits  Trajan  in  a  car 
drawn  by  four  horses,  as  he  is  represented  on  many  monuments 
of  the  triumphs  of  that  emperor;  and  his  figure  here  corre- 
sponds with  the  image  of  him  which  is  preserved  upon  the 
arch  of  Beneventum  in  Italy.  On  either  side,  in  square  com- 
partments, were  seen  the  attendants  preceding  and  following 
the  triumphal  car.  Of  this  superb  structure,  all  that  now 
remains  is  exhibited  by  the  annexed  engraving3.  When  Stuart 
visited  Athens,  it  was  not  more  perfect  than  it  is  now  :  but 
he  was  fortunate  enough  to  discover,  at  the  bottom  of  the 
hill,  two  statues  that  had  stood  erect,  in  Roman  habits;  and 
these,  being  exactly  in  the  same  style  of  workmanship 
with  the  sculptures  still   remaining  on  the  monument,    he 

supposed 

(1)  Under  the  figure  in  the  left  niche  : 

B  A  21 A  EY2ANTIOX02BAXI  AEftS  ANTIOXOT 
Under  the  figure  in  the  middle  niche  : 

OlAOnAnnOSEITOANOYXBHSAIEYS 
Upon  the  pilaster  between  these  niches  : 
C  •  IVLIVS  •  CF  •  FABIA  •  ANTIOCHVS  •  PHILOF  VPPVS  •  COS  ■  FRATER 
ARVALIS  •  ALLECTVS  •  INTER  •  PRAETORIOS  •  AB  •  IMP-  CAESARE  •  NER7A 
TRAIANO  •  OPTIMO  •  AVGVSTO-  GERMANICO  ■  DACICO 

See  Stuart's  Athens,  vol.  III.   c.  i. 

(2)  Ibid.  p.  36,  (3)  From  a  drawing  made  upon  the  spot  by  Preaux,  in  180G 


WW«if!*ilWP>J^>v 


ATHENS. 


545 


supposed  to  have  stood  above  the  two  central  pilasters5. 
But  if  this  be  true,  there  were  probably  two  other 
figures  above  the  remaining  pilasters  at  the  sides,  to 
complete  the  symmetry  of  the  work  ;  which  might  thus 
admit  of  easy  restoration  from  the  hand  of  an  artist 
willing  to  represent  the  whole  of  this  most  stately  monu- 
ment as  it  originally  appeared.  The  statues  mentioned  by 
Stuart  disappeared  about  thirty  years  after  he  left  Athens4. 

Descending  from  the  Museum,  we  observed  some  remains 
of  the  antient  walls  of  the  city  upon  its  southern  side, 
and  of  the  entrance  from  Phalerum*.  The  vestiges  of  these 
walls  also  appear  extending  towards  the  Monument  of 
Philopappus,  which  they  inclosed;  thence  they  bore  off 
towards  the  Pirzeean  Gate,  in  a  line  of  direction  almost  due 
north  and  south6.  Afterwards,  crossing  the  plain,  we  visited 
the  Theatre  and  Cave  of  Bacchus  ;  and  some  substructions 
were  shewn  to  us  by  Signor  Lusieri,  which  he  conceived  to  be 
the  foundations  of  a  temple  dedicated  also  to  the  same  Deity. 
Nothing  exists  now  of  the  theatre,  excepting  the  circular 
sweep  for  the  seats,  as  in  the  earliest  ages  of  dramatic 
representation  it  was  universally  formed,  by  scooping 
the  sloping  side  of  a  rock7.  But  how  majestic,  and  how 
perfect  in  its  preservation,  rises  the  Choragic  Monument  of 
Thrasyllus  above  this  theatre8!  and  how  sublime  the  whole 

groupe 

(3)  See  Stuart's  Athens,   p.  36. 

(4)  In  1/85.     See  Stuart's  Athens,  vol.  III.  p.  36,  Note  (a). 

(5)  See  the  Plan,  Vignette  to  Chap.  XII. 

(6)  See  the  Plan,  No.  ]i).  (7)   Ibid.  No.  16. 

(8)  See  the  Plan,  No.  14.  The  best  representation  of  it  is  in  Le  Roy  ("  Ruines 
de  la  Grece,"  PL  8.  Paris,  1/5S)  ;  now  the  more  valuable,  as  the  monument,  in  its 
present  mutilated  state,  no  longer  exhibits  the  appearance  it  then  presented. 

VOL.  III.  4  A 


CHAP  xiir. 


AntientWalls. 


Tlieatre  and 
Cave  of 
Bacchus. 


Monument  of 
77irasyllus. 


546 


ATHENS. 


chap,  xiii.    groupe  of  objects  with  which  it  was  associated  at  the  time  of 
our  visit,  and  before  the  work  of  dilapidation  had  commenced 
— the  antient  sun-dial ;  the  statue  of  the  God  ;  the  pillars  for 
the  tripods ' ;  the  majestic  Citadel !      The  last  of  these  has 
indeed  defied  the  desolating  ravages  of  Barbaric  power ;  but 
who  shall  again  behold  the  other  objects  in  this  affecting 
scene  as  they  then  appeared  ?  or  in  what  distant  country, 
and  obscure  retreat,  may  we  look  for  their  mutilated  frag- 
ments >    Often  as  these  monuments  had  been  described,  we 
observed  some  things  which  perhaps  have  not  been  before 
noticed.    This  part  of  the  rock  of  the  Acropolis  consists  of 
a  hard  red  breccia,  similar  to  that  which  was  observed  at 
the  Areopagus.     Towards  the  left  of  the  Monument    of 
Thrasyllus  the  surface  of  the  stone  has  been  planed  per- 
pendicularly; and  here,  beneath  the  two  Choragic  Pillars, 
we    saw,   upon    the    rock,    an   Inscription    alluded  to,  but 
not   copied,  by  Stuart3,  and  mentioned  by  no  other  writer. 
It  extends  in  two  parts,  which  may  have  belonged  to  two 
separate  legends,  one  above  the  other;  but  the  characters 
are  alike  in  both,  and  they  are  deeply  engraven  in  the  stone, 
after  the  manner  of  those  Inscriptions  which  we  discovered 
at    Jerusalem,    over    the    doors    of    the  tombs    in   Mount 
Sion3.      The  only  letters   sufficiently  perfect  to  be  legible 
are  the  following ;  but  the  termination   of  the   upper  line 
could  not   be   ascertained,  and   this   line  was    remarkably 

separated 


Remarkable 
Inscription. 


(1)  See  the  Plan,  No.  13. 

(2)  Antiq.  of  Athens,  vol.11,  p.  7.    Lond.  1787.     Stuart  wrote  ANE0H IAN  for 
ANE0E2AN. 

(3)  See  Section  I.  of  Part  II.  of  these  Travels,  p.  556,     Broxb.  1812. 


HWaU 


ATHENS.  547 

separated  from  the  lower  part  of  the  inscription  by  a  natural    tCHAP; xin; 
or  artificial  linear  cavity  in  the  stone : 

AHEIIWNI  ANOZAAI  ... 

TPinOCANEGECAN 

In  its  very  imperfect  state  it  must  be  left  to  the  conjectures 
of  the  learned4.  The  importance  of  its  situation,  and  the  cir- 
cumstance of  its  never  having  been  published  before,  certainly 
entitles  it  to  the  Reader's  notice.  As  to  its  interpretation,  it 
evidently  refers  to  the  erection  of  tripods :  this  appears  both 
from  the  words  of  the  inscription,  and  from  its  contiguity  to 
the  Choragic  Pillars.  The  name  Pisonianus  seems  to  occur 
before  A«< ;  and  these  letters  may  have  reference  to  the  word 
Auifjuun,  in  one  of  its  cases.  Bacchus  bears  the  title  of  Daemon 
throughout  the  Bacchce  of  Euripides5.  With  regard  to  the 
Crypt  which   is  behind   the  Monument  of  Thrasyllus,  by    origin  of 

the  Crypt. 

some  called  the  Cave  of  Bacchus,  and  now  a  Greek  chapel 
bearing  the  appellation  of  Panagia  Spiliotissa,  or  the  Blessed 
Lady  of  the  Grotto,  it  is  decidedly  mentioned  by  Pausanias  ; 
and  his  allusion  to  it,  added  to  the  description  which  he 
gives  of  its  situation,  serve  to  identify  the  Theatre.  He 
says  it  contained  a  tripod,  with  the  figures  of  Apollo  and 
Diana,    represented   as  destroying  the  children  of  Niobe*. 

But 

(4)  Tpirrof;  is  found  in  Hesychius.  The  use  of  the  verb  dvsdEcrav  occurs  thus  in 
Lucian  :  'Y\ac  dwErifiovTo,  KCtl  oprj  dvedecrav,  ical  opvea  KaQilpaaav,  ical  rd  (j>vrd 
i>7rc<j>t'}iu.i<rav  cxac-vy  Qau'    Montes  dedicarunt,  vel  consecrdrunt,  unicuique  Deo. 

(5)  'O  haiftuv,  6  AtoV  wait.  \\4\J.  top  Sainov  tlatyipuv  viov.  V.  256.  fdvevra 
6yt)Totc  hai^iova.  v. 42.  h[i§avi)<;  cai/nuv  fiporow.  v.  11.{Camb.  1694.)  K.r.X.  The  Greek 
Writers,  and  especially  the  Poets,  use  the  word  kaifxav  as  applied  to  a  God,  or  Goddess. 

(6)  En  ae  thi  koptohi  tot  ©eatpot,  Siihaaion  estin  en  tais  iietpais  'tiio  thn 

AKPOnOAIN.       Tpt7T0VC     Si     CTTtan     KCtl  TOVTU.      'AffoWuV     $E     tV     aVTip     Kal  '  ApTEjUlS    TOVq 

Tra'tZac  titrlv  dvaipovvrtr  rove  Nidfirjc.    Pausaniae  Attica,  c.  21.  p.  49.    Lips.  l6g6. 


vf?-^wrv\r. »,  wwipwaw  ^^mft     ^W"1*       yi>  y»"?  'yyiyiiqw 


■HBHMMMnMMHMHHHjjHlN  wis**-,"*  «iC>ancsv 


548 


CHAP.  XIII. 


ATHENS. 

But  its  mere  antient  history  may  possibly  refer  to  an 
earlier  period  than  that  of  the  choragic  games  of  the 
Athenians,  and  to  customs  which  existed  in  Attica  lona; 
before  the  institution  of  the  Dionysia.  That  it  ought 
not  to  have  been  considered  as  necessarily  associated  with 
the  structure  now  placed  before  it,  seems  to  be  evident 
from  the  circumstance  of  the  entrance  being  closed 
when  the  building  was  added.  In  the  inscription,  upon 
the  middle  of  the  architrave  and  immediately  over  the 
central  pilaster  of  the  monument,  no  mention  is  made 
of  the  grotto :  the  legend  appears  to  refer  only  to  the 
structure  whereon  it  is  inscribed1.  From  this  it  may  be 
conjectured,  that  the  cave  was  one  of  the  most  antient 
sepulchral  crypto?  of  the  first  settlers  upon  this  rock  : 
there  are  many  other  of  a  similar  nature,  fronting  the 
Phalerum  in  the  approach  to  Athens;  and  in  the  lull  of 
Musceus.  It  is  precisely  in  the  situation  where  such  caves 
were  often  constructed  for  sepulchral  purposes,  by  the  earliest 
Grecian  colonies,  and  by  the  inhabitants  of  all  the  eastern 
shores  of  the  Mediterranean  ;  that  is  to  say,  upon  the  outside 
and  beneath  the  walls  of  the  Acropolis;  being  hollowed  in 
the  rocks  upon  which  their  citadels  were  erected.  Instances 
of  this  custom  have  been  mentioned  more  than  once  in  the 
former  parts  of  this  work0.  Here  we  were  gratified  by  find- 
ing the   Ice-plant   {Mesemhry  anthem  um  crystallbium,  Linn.) 

sprouting 


(1)  See  Chandler's  Trav.  in  Greece,  p.  63.     Oxf.  \7"j6. 

(2)  See  Part  I.  of  these  Travels,  Chap.  XX.  p.  205.    Third  edit. 


ATHENS. 


549 


sprouting  luxuriantly,  in  its  wild  and  native  state,  among  chap,  xih. 
the  ruins:  it  was  now  in  seed3;  and  we  collected  the  ice  Plant. 
capsules  to  send  to  England4.  This  was  the  only  spot  in  all 
Greece  where  we  remarked  this  plant.  The  observations  of 
former  travellers  prove  it  to  be  an  Athenian  plant5;  yet  it 
had  been  transported  to  England,  and  was  cultivated  there 
so  early  as  the  beginning  of  the  last  century6. 

On  the  following  day  we  set  out  to  visit  those  prodigious 
columns,  which,  owing  to  their  magnitude  and  situation, 
are  almost  everywhere  in  view,  bearing  traditionally  the 
name  of  Hadrian  s  Pillars.  In  our  wray  thither,  we 
passed  beneath  an   arch  which  conducted  from  the  old  city    Archof 

Hadrian. 

of  Theseus  to  the  New  Athens  built  by  Hadrian ;  upon 
which  the  several  appellations  of  Porta  Hadriani,  Arch  of 
Theseus,  and  Arch  of  JEgeus,  have  been  bestowed7.  Its 
situation  with  respect  to  the  walls  of  the  antient  city, 
and  the  obliquity  of  its  position  with  regard  to  the 
peribolus  which  inclosed  the  plane  of  Hadrian  s  Pillars, 
seems  to  authorise  an  objection,  already  urged8,  against  the 
notion  of  its  having  been  originally  a  gate.     Le  Roy's  view 

of 


(3)  October  30. 

(4)  We  collected  many  rare  plants  in  the  neighbourhood  of  Athens ;  but  the 
specimens  were  destroyed  in  their  passage  home,  by  the  wreck  of  the  Princessa 
merchantman,  off  Beachy  Head. 

(5)  It  was  found  near  to  Athens,  by  John  Sibthorpe,  M.  D.  Professor  of  Botany  at 
Oxford. 

(6)  In  1727,  according  to  Bradley.    See  Martyn's  edit,  of  Miller's  Diet.     Loud.  1  807. 

(7)  See  Wheler,  Spon,  Le  Roy,  Stuart,  Cnandler,  8cc.  fcc.  See  also  the  Plan, 
Vignette  to  Chap.  XII.  No.  18. 

(8)  Stuart's  Antiq.  of  Athens,  as  above  cited. 


550 


CHAP.  XIII. 


Its  origin. 


ATHEN  S. 

of  it1  is  much  finer,  as  to  general  effect,  than  that 
which  Stuart  has  given9,  and  exhibits  more  of  the 
grandeur  of  the  original.  The  stones  are  put  together 
without  cement ;  but  the  work  is  adorned  with  a  row  of 
Corinthian  pilasters  and  columns,  with  bases  supporting  an 
upper  tier  in  the  same  style  of  architecture,  thereby 
denoting  a  mode  of  building  more  characteristic  of  the 
age  of  Hadrian  than  of  any  earlier  period  in  Athenian 
history.  In  the  endeavours  which  have  been  made  to 
trace  its  origin,  and  to  ascertain  its  antiquity,  it  is  some- 
what strange  that  no  one  has  stated,  what  the  first  view 
of  it  seems  to  suggest  as  the  most  probable  opinion  con- 
cerning this  structure ;  namely,  that  it  was  a  triumphal 
arch,  erected  in  honour  of  Hadrian  upon  his  coming  to 
Athens.  Stuart  has  observed5,  that  "  it  appears  evidently 
not  to  have  been  connected  with,  or  to  have  made  a  part 
of,  any  other  building,  but  to  have  been  originally  intended 
to  remain  insulated."  He  also  considers  the  inscriptions 
upon  the  two  sides  of  it  "  as  a  complimentary  effusion 
of  gratitude  to  a  liberal  benefactor;"  and  yet  he  has 
been  induced,  by  the  forced  construction  of  a  passage  in 
Plutarch,  to  believe  this  building  to  be  the  Arch  of  JEgeus, 
rebuilt  by  the  Roman  Emperor.  If  this  had  been  the 
case,  and  if  Hadrian,   as  he  supposes,  had  really  restored 

a  venerable 


(1)  Les  Ruines  des  plus  beaux  Monumens  de  la  Grece,  PI.  21.     Paris,  17$7- 

(2)  Antiq.  of  Athens,  vol.  III.  c.  3.  PI.  1.     Lond.  1794. 

(3)  Ibid.  p.  20. 


ATHENS. 


551 


a  venerable  fabric  owing  to  any  regard  for  the  consideration  F^xm/ 
in  which  its  original  founder  was  held,  he  would  not  surely 
have  opposed  his  own  fame  to  that  of  Theseus,  as  we  find 
it  to  be  vaunted  in  the  two  inscriptions  upon  the  arch4.  It 
seems  more  reasonable  to  suppose  that  these  inscriptions 
were  placed  by  the  Athenians  upon  a  triumphal  arch 
erected  in  honour  of  Hadrian,  as  adulatory  testimonies  of 
their  regard  for  a  patron  to  whose  munificence  their  city 
was  so  much  indebted,  and  as  the  highest  compliment  they 
could  bestow.  That  Hadrian  coveted  the  thanks  and  praises 
of  dependent  states ;  that  he  sought  to  be  so  rewarded  for  the 
favours  he  conferred  upon  them ;  seems  to  be  evident  from 
one  of  his  epistles  alluding  to  the  acknowledgments  made  by 
the  people  of  Alexandria  for  his  bounty  to  their  city,  and 
already  cited  in  a  former  part  of  this  work5.  The  form  and 
style  of  the  structure  also  agrees  with  this  opinion  of  its 
origin  ;  for  it  resembles  the  usual  form  of  the  triumphal 
arches   raised  in  honour  of  the   Roman  Emperors6.     It  is 

built 


(4)  On  the  south-eastern  side,  towards  the  Acropolis  : 

AIAEIIA0HNAI0H2EftIHnPINnOAI2 

Hce  sunt  istce  Athence  Thesei  quondam  urbs. 
On  the  north-western  side,  towards  the  Temple  of  Jupiter  Olympius  : 

AIAEI2AAPIANOYKOYXI0E2Eft2IIOAI2 
Hce  sunt  istce  Athence  Hadriani,  et  nequaquam  Thesei  urbs. 

(5)  See  Chap.  VII.  p.  264.  of  this  Vol. 

(6)  The  first  specimen  of  Grecian  architecture  erected  in  Great  Britain  was 
modelled  from  this  arch  j  and  the  remains  of  the  copy,  although  offering  a  paltry 
imitation,  and  upon  an  insignificant  scale,  may  still  be  seen  in  the  University  of 
Cambridge.  It  is  the  southern  front  of  the  gate  of  Caius  College,  facing  the  Senate 
House  and  Public  Library ;  erected  in  1557,  by  John  Caius,  M.D.  after  designs  by  John 
of  Padua. 


■tf»,*»i»j  e*;j*rj»a:  ^^^^H  >x-si*CBJ«  >ws*><  Wit*  f-^.v.*»c 


When  erected. 


ATHENS. 

built  entirely  of  Pentelicaji  marble ;  nor  was  tbis  magni- 
ficence inconsistent  with  the  materials  commonly  used 
in  constructing  triumphal  arches.  The  arches  of  Romulus, 
it  is  true,  were  of  brick;  and  that  of  Camillus  was  of  plain 
square  stone ;  but  those  of  Ccesar,  Drusus,  Titus,  Trajan, 
and  Gordian,  were,  like  this  of  Hadrian,  entirely  of 
marble.  In  addition  it  may  be  urged,  that  trophies  of  this 
kind  were  unknown  in  Greece  before  the  time  of  the 
Roman  Emperors.  The  mere  circumstance  of  its  form  is 
therefore  almost  decisive  as  to  its  origin  ;  for  the  practice  of 
erecting  arches,  as  monuments  of  noble  enterprises,  and  in 
honour  of  distinguished  personages,  was  not  a  Grecian  but  a 
Roman  custom.  Its  proper  appellation  seems  therefore  to  be 
that,  which  tradition,  supported  by  the  evidence  of  an 
inscription  upon  its  south-eastern  side,  has  long  assigned  to 
it;  namely,  the  Arch  op  Hadrian':  and  the  occasion  of  its 
erection  will  be  found  in  the  remarkable  event  of  Hadrians 
return  to  Athens  for  the  consecration  of  the  identical 
temple  to  which  this  arch  conducted  :  this  happened  early 
in  the  second  century1.  Three  years  only  had  elapsed  since 
the  Emperor  entered  into  the  priesthood  of  the  Elcusinian 
Ceres;  an  event  which  was  distinguished  by  the  martyrdom  of 
many  Athenian  Christians,  with  Publius  their  bishop2.  The 
Heathens  were  therefore  animated  by  every  emotion  of 
religious  zeal,  and  by  every  sentiment  of  gratitude,  to 
receive  with  all  the  honours  of  triumph  the  patron  who  had 

restored 


(1)  A.D.  128. 


(2)  A.D.  125. 


ATHENS. 


553 


restored  the  temples  of  their  Gods  ;  the  champion  who  had  chap,  m. 
trodden  down  the  enemies  of  their  faith5.  IF  ever,  in  the 
history  of  the  world,  there  was  a  time,  when  it  was 
peculiarly  appropriate  that  a  triumph  should  be  decreed,  it 
was  at  this  period,  and  upon  this  occasion.  The  antient 
city  seemed  to  revive  with  more  than  pristine  splendor 
from  its  ruins :  ever  since  the  age  of  Diccearchus,  its  condition 
had  been  described  as  so  wretched,  that  foreigners,  upon 
the  first  sight  of  it,  would  scarcely  believe  they  beheld 
what  once  had  been  so  renowned  a  city4:  but  a  new  Athens 
had  arisen  under  the  auspices  of  the  Emperor.  Magnificent 
temples,  stately  shrines,  unsullied  altars,  awaited  the  bene- 
diction of  the  sacerdotal  monarch ;  and  •  it  would  indeed 
have  been  marvellous  if  the  Athenians,  naturally  prone  to 
adulation,  neglected  to  bestow  it  upon  a  benefactor  so  well 
disposed  for  its  reception.  The  triumphal  arch  was  of 
course  prepared ;  and  lasting  characters,  thereon  inscribed, 
have  proclaimed  to  succeeding  ages  that  "  the  Athens  of 
Hadrian  had  eclipsed  the  city  of  Theseus." 

We  now  advanced  towards  the  stupendous  pillars  which 
also  bear  the  name  of  that  emperor ;  and  a  much  more 
difficult  task  would  remain,  if  we  should  undertake  to 
develope  the  circumstances  of  their  history.  According  to 
the  routine  of  objects  as  they  were  observed  by  Pausanias, 


on 


(3)  Upon  his  return  to  Athens,  Hadrian  presided  as  magistrate  at  the  celebration  of 
the  Dionysia,  and  wore  the  Athenian  dress.  He  also  gave  to  the  Athenians  the  island 
Cephallenia.     Fid.  Din.  Cass,  in  Fit.  Hadrian. 

(4)  ' KniarrjQdj)    <T  dv  i^ai^yrji:   vtto  tu>v  £tvav   deupoi/fityi],   ft  avrtj   ecttiv   »/  rrpoff- 
etyopevofiivrj  tuv  'Adrjyaiuv  ttoXu.  '  Dicaearchi  Status  Graeciae,  p.  8.     Oxon.  1703. 

VOL.   HI.  4  JB 


BERG       SB6B  -■'•.»' V:-.',*:.-'  ^BK  ^B^B 


554 


CHAP.  XIII. 


Temple  of 

Jupiter 

Olympius. 


ATHENS. 

on  this  side  of  the  city,  the  hundred  and  twenty  pillars  of 
Phrygian  marble,  erected  by  Hadrian,  were  in  this  situation  ; 
that  is  to  say,  south-eastward  of  the  Acropolis1.  Sixteen 
columns  of  white  marble,  each  six  feet  in  diameter,  and 
nearly  sixty  feet  in  height,  now  remain  standing ;  all  of 
the  Corinthian  order,  beautifully  fluted,  and  of  the  most 
exquisite  workmanship2.  But,  by  the  appearance  of  the  plane 
upon  which  the  columns  stand,  Wheler  was  induced  to 
believe  that  there  were  originally  six  rows  of  pillars,  and 
twenty  in  each  row,  which  would  complete  the  number 
mentioned  by  Pausanias3.  Chandler  and  Stuart  are  the 
first  authors  who  have  described  the  Columns  of  Hadrian  as 
the  remains  of  the  Temple  of  Jupiter  Olympius*.  Le  Roy 
considered  them  as  a  part  of  the  Pantheon";  a  name  bestowed 

occasionally, 

(1)  Ta  tc   iTTi^aviaTara,    ckcxtov    e'tKom    Kioves   Q)pvyiov    \fflov.      Pausan.   Attica, 
p.  43.     Lips.  I696. 

(2)  Such  is  their  inordinate  size,  when  compared  with  the  relative  proportion  of 
any  other  architectural  pillars  to  natural  objects,  that  in  every  representation  of  them 
hitherto  engraven,  where  figures  of  living  beings  have  been  introduced  by  the  artist  to 
afford  a  scale  for  their  dimensions,  the  design  has  been  frustrated  by  the  reluctance  of 
the  engraver  to  represent  these  figures  sufficiently  diminutive.  This  has  been  the  case 
in  the  annexed  Plates  ;  for,  unable  to  conceive  the  existence  of  columns  of  such  mag- 
nitude that  a  man  of  ordinary  stature  may  remain  concealed  within  any  of  the  canelures, 
some  addition,  as  usual,  has  been  made  by  the  engraver  to  the  size  of  the  figures, 
and  the  apparent  magnitude  of  the  architecture  has  been  thereby  diminished.  The 
original  drawings  were  not  wholly  without  this  defect ;  but  it  is  more  visible  in  the 
engraved  copies. 

(3)  "  Which,  therefore,  must  be  that  hundred  and  twenty,  Pausanias  speaketh  of, 
as  built  by  the  Emperor  Hadrian  of  Phrygian  marble,  being  whiter  than  that  of 
Pentelycus."    Journey  into  Greece,  BookV.  p.  371.    Lond.  1682. 

(4)  See  Trav.  in  Greece,  vol.  II.  p. /4.  Oxf.17/6.  Also  Antiq.  of  Athens,  vol.  III. 
p.  11.    Lond.  1794. 

(5)  Les  Ruines  des  plus  beaux  Monumens  de  la  Grece,  PL  22.  p.  35.  Paris,  1758. 
Le  Roy's  View  of  the  Ruin  is  perhaps  the  finest  in  that  magnificent  work. 


ATHENS. 


555 

CHVP.X1II. 


occasionally,    by   different   travellers,    upon    almost   every 
building    in    Athens,    whether    in    the    upper    or    in    the     ^^T 
lower  city.     Thcodosius  Zygomalas,  author  of  the  Letter  to    j^J"^ 
Martin  Crusius,  published  in  1583,  mentions  the  Parthenon6 
under  this  last  appellation.     Guilletiere  affirms  positively, 
that    the    principal    mosque    in    the    lower    city    was    the 
Pantheon1,  and  afterwards  describes  it  as  superior  to  that  of 
Rome.     A  recent  traveller8  applies  the  name,  and  with  more 
reason,  to  an  edifice  described  by  Stuart  as  the  Poikile9,  and 
by  Wheleras  the  Olympicum'0.     In  this  imperfect  state  of 
our  knowledge  with   regard    to    the   real  history  of  these 
pillars,  as  of  many  other  antiquities  in  Athens,  the  author 
would     leave    the     question    to     be     decided     by    subse- 
quent    investigation,    and   by    the    discoveries    which    the 

excavations 


(6)  This  circumstance  is  alluded  to  by  Spon,  {Voyage  de  Grece,  &c.  torn.  II.  p.  37. 
d,  la  Haye,  1  /24.)  but  it  may  have  originated  in  an  error  of  the  transcriber  of  Zygomalas's 
Letter,  or  in  an  error  of  the  Press  ;  TrdvQzov  being  written  for  napQwuv.  The  words  are  : 
"  To  irdvBaov:  oiKoZop.rjv,  viKuoav  wdacK:  oiKoSo/j.d<::  yXi/^rwc  CKros  Sid  nd<n]<;  rrjg  oiko- 
Co/Atjc  e-^ovadv  rd<;  Icrropia^'EWijytoy :  Kal  ravra,  r«c  dfiac.  Ipsum  Panthen.m  :  quod 
est  aedificium,  aliis  omnibus  excellentius :  in  quo  extra  circumquaque  historiae  Grae- 
corum  sculptae  sunt,  et  quidem  divinae."  (Fid.  Turco-Grcecice,  lib.  vii.  p.  430. 
Basil.  1583.)  The  author  is  here  evidently  describing  the  Parthenon;  and,  as  he  after- 
wards mentions  the  horses  of  Praxiteles,  "  awdvu  rij<;  fitydXrii;  ttA>/c  (supra  magnam 
portam),"  it  is  not  very  probable  that  he  believed  the  building  to  be  the  Pantheon 
of  Hadrian ;  unless  indeed  he  alluded  to  the  horses  which  were  on  each  side  of  the 
Propylcea. 

(7)  "  II  y  a  trois  mosquees  a  Athenes :  une  dans  le  chasteau,  qui  est  l'incomparable 
temple  de  Minerve  ;  et  deux  dans  la  ville,  dont  la  principale  est  le  fameux  Pantheon, 
qu' Adrian  y  fit  bastir."     Voyage  d'Athenes,  p.  156.    Paris,  1675. 

(8)  Mr.  Wilkins.  See  the  Plan  engraved  for  the  Work  about  to  be  published  by 
Mr.  Walpole,  on  Parts  of  Greece,  Asia,  and  Egypt,  from  the  MS.  Journals  of  Travellers 
in  the  Levant. 

(9)  Antiq.  of  Athens,  vol.1,  c.  5.  p.  37.    Lond.  1762. 

(10)  Journey  into  Greece,  Book  V.  p.  392.    Lond.  1682. 


I 


^^^H  ^^^H 


•!*>.^-*>.,-»;-.;-*>...vW,v.'frT.-;.-.» 


H9 


556 


ATHENS. 


CHAP.xm^    excavations  of  future   travellers  may  bring  to  light,  were 

?h?NamI°r       **   not  ^or  tne  recent  observations   upon    this    subject    by 
assigned  to  n.     tne     Earl     of    Aberdeen1,    added    to     the     plan    of   this 

mighty    structure    as    afforded   both   by  Chandler2  and   bv 
Stuart3  from  their  own  personal  observations  ;  which  seem 
to  place  the  history  of  the   building  beyond  a  doubt,  and 
prove   it    to   have   been    the    Temple   of  Jupiter  Olympius, 
constructed  with  double  rows  of  columns,  ten  in  front,  and 
twenty-one   in  flank,   amounting  in  all  to  one  hundred  and 
twenty-four  ;   the  extent  of  the  front  being  one  hundred  and 
seventy-one  feet,  and  the  length  of  the  flank  more  than  four 
hundred :    of  wThich  sumptuous   and   stately  temple,   these 
pillars  are  the  majestic  ruin.    The  area,  or  peribolus,  within 
which  it  stood,  was  four  stadia  in  circumference.    "  Rome," 
says   Chandler4,  "  afforded   no   example   of  this  species  of 
building.     It  was  one  of  the  four  marble  edifices  which  had 
raised  to  the  pinnacle  of  renown  the  architects  who  planned 
them*;  men,  it  is   said,   admired   in    the  assembly    of  the 
Gods    for    their   wisdom   and    excellence."     Some    of  the 
columns    still    support   their    architraves ;    one    of   which, 
being  measured  while  we  were   in  Athens,  was  found  to 
equal  three  feet  in  width  ;  and,  although  of  one  entire  piece 
of  marble,    it    extended,    in   length,   twenty-two    feet   six 

inches. 

(1)  Introduction  to  Wilkins's  Transl.  of  Vitruvius,  p.  66.    See  also  Note  (1)  to  p.  9, 
of  the  Text  of  that  Work.    Lond.  1812. 

(2)  Trav.  in  Greece,  vol.11,  c.  15.  p.  74.     Orf.\T]6. 

(3)  Antiq.  of  Athens,  vol.111,  c.  2.  PI.  2.    Lond.  1794. 

(4)  Trav.  in  Greece,  as  above  cited. 

(5)  Antistates,  Callaeschros,  Antimachides,  and  Porinus,  were  the  earlier  architect 
employed  on  this  fabric. 


—^ ^^^H 


ATHENS. 


557 


inches5.  Upon  the  top  of  the  entablature,  on  the  western  side  chap.xiii. 
of  the  principal  groupe,  is  shewn  the  dwelling  of  a  hermit, 
who  fixed  his  solitary  abode  upon  this  eminence,  and 
dedicated  his  life  entirely  to  the  contemplation  of  the 
sublime  objects  by  which  his  mansion  was  everywhere 
surrounded.  Seventeen  of  these  pillars  were  standing  in 
1676:  but  a  few  years  before  Chandler  arrived  in  Athens, 
one  was  thrown  down,  for  the  purpose  of  building  a 
new  mosque  in  the  market-place.  Such  instances  of  dila- 
pidation on  the  part  of  the  Turks  are  fortunately  very  rare; 
and  we  find  that,  in  this  instance,  the  damage  done  to 
the  remains  of  the  temple  was  made  a  pretext  for  extorting 
fifteen  purses  from  the  Governor  of  Athens  ;  a  tax  levied  by 
the  Pasha  of  Negropont,  as  expressly  stated,  for  the  violence 
committed  by  the  Wahvode  in  overthrowing  the  pillar. 

Descending  from  the  area  of  the  temple  towards  the  iiumt. 
Ilissus,  we  visited  the  fountain  Callirhoe,  sometimes  called 
Enneacrunus1.  We  observed  niches  in  the  rock,  for  the  votive 
offerings,  where  there  had  been  a  cascade  :  and  hereabouts 
were,  in  all  probability,  the  altars  of  those  Muses  mentioned 
by  Pausanias,  who  were  called  Ilissiades.    Afterwards,  as  we 

examined 


Fountain 
Callirhoe. 


,  (6)  What  the  feelings  of  the  Athenians  must  have  been  upon  the  restoration  of  this 
temple,  may,  in  some  degree,  be  collected  from  the  following  observations  of  Plutarch, 
and  of  Diccearchus,  concerning  the  edifice  in  its  imperfect  state,  'ft?  yap  ?;  7ro'X<f  tu>v 
Adtjvaioy  to  'OXv/uttieiov,  o'vtuc,  t}  TlXdruvos  trotyLa  Trjv'A.rXavTiKov  iv  7roXXoi<;  KaXols 
fiovov  'ipyov  drtXe<;  err^Kev.  {Plutarch,  extremo  Sulone.)  Dicaearchus  seems  to  have  had 
a  foresight  of  its  future  splendor.  He  says:  X)Xv/j.7rtoi',  qfiirsXet  jj.iv,  Kardn-Xrj^ip 
3'  f^oj'  rrjy  Tt}<;  oiKodofurjaeut;  vnoypatyrjv'  ytvdfxevov  fr  dv  fitXricrrov,  EI  ZYNETE- 
AE20H.    Dicaearch.  Descript.  Graec.  ap.  Meurs.    De  Athenis  Atticis.   lib.  i.  c.  10. 

(7)  Vid.  Meursii   Ceramic.  Gemin.  c.  14.  ap.  Gronov.  Thesaur.  Graec.    torn.  IV. 
p.  982.    L.  Bat.  16QQ. 


558 


CHAP.  XIII. 


False  Notions 
entertained  of 
the  River. 


ATHENS. 

examined  the  channel  of  the  river,  for  a  considerable  extent, 
we  found  it  to  exhibit  such  evident  traces  of  a  powerful  cur- 
rent having  worn  away  the  solid  substance  of  its  rocky  bed, 
that  we  were  convinced  it  could  not  formerly  have  been 
characterized  by  the  appearance  it  now  exhibits ;  namely,  that 
of  an  occasional  torrent,  sometimes  dry  throughout  the  entire 
year.  Chandler  says,  he  visited  it  several  times  after  snow  had 
fallen  on  the  mountains,  and  after  heavy  rain  ;  but  that  he 
never  found  even  the  surface  of  the  channel  to  be  covered 
with  water :  it  lodged  only  in  the  hollows  of  the  stone,  and 
trickled  from  one  cavity  to  another1.  Yet  we  should 
reluctantly  conclude  with  that  writer,  that  the  Poets  who 
celebrated  Ilissus  "  as  a  stream  laving  [the  fields,  cool  and 
lucid,"  either  conceived  or  conveyed  "  a  false  idea  of 
this  renowned  water-course."  Some  other  cause  must  be 
assigned  for  the  disagreement  of  their  descriptions  with  the 
real  character  which  the  river  now  bears.  The  earliest 
traveller  whose  work  we  have  cited  seems  to  have  found 
no  difficulty  in  accounting  for  the  loss  of  the  current,  but, 
soon  after  his  arrival  at  Athens,  distinctly  states,  that  the 
water  of  the  Ilissus  had  been  diverted  and  divided  by  an  infinite 
number  of  rivulets,  cut  on  purpose  to  supply  the  fountains  in 
the  gardens  about  the  town2.  In  a  former  part  of  his  work 
he  seems  to  insinuate  that  the  current  had  also  been  carried 

off 

(1)  Trav.  in  Greece,  vol.  II.  p.  79-     Oxf.  1776- 

(2)  "  Le  pont  est  soiitenu  de  trois  arches;  et  au  desscms  est  le  canal  ou  passoit  l'Missus 
quand  il  estoit  riviere,  car  aujourd'huy  le  , canal  est  sec ;  V Missus  a  este  diverty,  et 
partage  en  une  infinite  de  rigoles,  qui  s'epanchent  de  coste  et  d'autre,  pour  aller  faire  des 
jets  d'eau  dans  les  jardins  des  environs  de  la  ville."  Voyage  d'Athenes,  par  De  la 
Guilletiere,  p.263.    Paris,  1675. 


uiatiM 


ATHENS. 


55$ 


off  for  the  use  of  the  mills  near  to  the  city3;  and  those  who  chap.xiii. 
have  visited  Troas  know  very  well  that  a  channel  thus  diverted, 
for  a  single  Turkish  mill,  is  sufficient  to  carry  off  a  torrent 
of  water  not  less  potent  than  was  the  stream  of  the  Ilissus4. 
In  the  simple  narrative  of  Dela  Guilletiere  we  have  therefore 
sufficient  evidence  to  justify  a  conclusion,  although  in  oppo- 
sition to  Chandler,  that  the  antient  writers  by  whom  the 
Ilissus  is  mentioned  did  not  fall  "  into  local  absurdities  and 
untruths5"  in  their  descriptions  of  that  river:  neither  is 
there  any  thing  more  justly  reprehensible  in  literary  matters, 
than  the  very  common  propensity  to  depreciate  the  accuracy 
of  Poets  and  Historians,  whenever  a  difficulty  occurs  in 
reconciling  their  statements  with  existing  appearances6. 

From 


(3)  "  Le  Didascalos  nous  die,  que  e'estoit  la  faute  des  moulins,et  que  la  riviere  iV Missus 
estoit  prescntement  coupee  en  tant  de  canaux,  qu'elle  ne  pouvoit  fournir  assez  d'eau  pour 
bien  moudre  le  bled."     Ibid.  p.  236. 

(4)  See  Gell's  Topography  of  Troy,  p.  48.    Lond.  1804. 

(5)  See  Chandler's  Travels  in  Greece,  vol.  II.  p.  7g.     Oxf.  1776. 

(6)  Plato  (in  Phxd.  torn.  III.  p.  229.)  mentions  the  pure  and  limpid  waters  of  the 
Ilissus  ;  but  as  this  passage  of  that  author  is  expressly  alluded  to  by  Mr.  Walpole,  in  his 
MS.  Journal,  when  writing  upon  the  same  subject,  his  observations  will  now  be  added,  as 
strongly  supporting  the  opinion  already  given.  "  Neither  wood  nor  water  seem  to  have 
abounded  in  Attica.  I  did  not  meet  a  stream  of  any  magnitude  (excepting  the  Cephissus) 
in  any  part  of  it.  Dio  Chrysoslom  says,  there  are  not  great  mountains  to  be  seen,  nor 
are  there  rivers  flowing  through  the  country,  p.>jre  7ro~afiol  ciacpeovrw,  Orat.  6. 
Athens  itself  was  supplied  with  well-water;  hence  the  number  of  antient  wells  we 
observe  cut  in  the  rock  about  the  city  near  Lycabettus.  Pausanias  (lib.  i.),  as  well  as 
Plutarch  in  his  life  of  Solon,  makes  mention  of  them.  The  exportation  of  wood  and 
pitch  was  forbidden  by  law,  as  we  find  from  the  Scholiast  on  a  passage  in  the  Knights  of 
Aristophanes.  What  the  country  afforded  was  required  for  the  use  of  the  navy.  The 
Lyceum  and  Cynosarges  were,  according  to  Dicaearchus,  KardZevcpa,  well  wooded; 
because,  as  places  of  public  resort,  they  were  much  attended  to  ;  but  trees  arc  not  now 
to  be  found  there.  It  would  be  as  difficult  to  find  the  pure  and  limpid  waters  of  the 
Ilissus,  Kadapd  kcu  cia<j>avn,  which  Plato  mentions  in  the  Pnaedrus ;  there  is  never  any 

quantity 


Stadium  Pa- 
nathenaicum. 


ATHENS. 

From  the  bed  of  the  river—after  visiting  that  part  of  it 
where  the  marble  bridge  of  three  arches,  mentioned  by  all 
writers  to  the  time  of  Stuart1,  conducted  across  the  limits' 
to  Agiue2,  the  scene  of  one  of  Plato's  dialogues '-—we 
ascended  to  view  the  remains  of  the  Stadium  Pana- 
thenaicum,  which  was,  in  fact,  a  continuation  of  the 
bridge ;  for  the  latter  was  seventy  feet  wide,  and  conducted 
immediately  into  the  arena  of  the  former.  It  has  been 
usual  to  say  of  this  most  wonderful  of  all  the  marvellous 
works  of  Herodes  Attkus\  that  nothing  now  remains  of  its 
former  magnificence.  To  our  eyes,  every  thing  necessary 
to  impress  the  mind  with  an  accurate  idea  of  the  object 
itself,  and   of  its  grandeur,   and   of  the  prodigious  nature 

of 


quantity  of  water  in  the  river-bed.     In  former  times,  the  channel  was  full.     Besides  the 

passage  from  Plato,  the  following  allusion  of  Cratinus  to  a  famous  orator  suppoi  is  this 

opinion  : 

Ye  Gods,  what  a  flow  of  words  is  here ! 

Ilissus  is  in  his  throat :    ''IXhtctoc  ev  rfj  <pdpvyt. 

and  we  know  that  the  Pelasgi  were  accused  of  way-laying  the  Athenian  women,  when 

they  went  from  the  city  to  draw  water  from  the  Ilissus."     Walpole's  MS.  Journal. 

(1)  See  the  view  of  it  in  Stuart's  Athens.    The  bridge  no  longer  exists. 

(2)  &iaj3a<ri  Ie  tovWiXmkjqv,  ywpiov"Aypai  icaXovfitvov,  k.  t.  X.  Pausaniae  Attica,, 
C.  19.  p.  45.     Lips.  I696. 

(3)  The  Pheedrus;  so  called  from  one  of  the  disciples  of  Socrates. 

(4)  It  was  originally  constructed  by  Lycurgus ;  but  it  was  restored  by  Herodes, 
whose  real  name,  as  given  by  Spon  from  an  Athenian  inscription,  was  Tiberius 
Claudius  Atlicus  Herodes.  He  lavished  upon  it  the  most  enormous  sums,  covering  it 
entirely  with  the  white  marble  of  Mount  Pentelicus.  Pausanias  did  not  expect  to  be 
credited,  even  in  the  brief  description  of  this  work,  as  thus  given :  To  de,  aKovaaat 
uiv  ovy  6fxoi(>>s  iirayoiyov,  Qavfia  $'  iSovat,  ordfsiov  earl  Xevkov  Xidov,  p,Eyido<;  ce 
avrov   rij^E    civ  r«c  fidXtOTU   TtKj.iaipot.TO.    dvuQtv  opo<;  wrtp  rov  QiXiaaov  dp~)(opitvov 

IK  flTJVOEUOVC     KCcd)']KEl     TOV  TTOTCt/UOV     TTpO£    Tt)V   V^dfJV    Evdtf    TE    K'Ot    ( ITtXoVV'     TOVTO     UV1]p 

''Adrjvuioc;  'HptJEtjs  uKocdpirjat,   KCtl  01  to  -noXv  rrjc  XiOoToplas  rr}<;  HevtIXticiv  ic  tijv 
okotiopriv  dvtjXudi].    Pausan.  Attica,  c.  19.  pp.  45, 46.    Lips.  1696". 


ATHENS. 

of  the  work,    seemed    to    exist   as  if  it   had   been   in   its 
perfect  state.    The  marble  covering  of  the  seats,  it  is   true, 
no  longer  appears ;  but  the  lines  are  visible  of  the  different 
ranges  ;   and  perhaps  a  part  of  the  covering  itself  might  be 
brought  to  light  by  a  removal  of  the  soil.    The  absence  of 
ornament  is  of  little  consequence  as   to  the  general  effect : 
the  decorations  of  a  Stadium,  however  costly  in  their  nature, 
may  be  easily  imagined  ;  and  if,  instead  of  having  ransacked 
the  quarries    of  Pcntdicus    for   its    garniture,    some    more 
precious  material  had  been  used,  the  superficial  investment, 
in   so  vast  a  theatre,  would  not  materially  have  altered  its 
general  appearance.    The   remains    of  Stadia  still  exist  in 
different  parts  of  Greece ;   but  this  of  Athens  surpasses,   as 
in    the   days    of   its    splendor,    every   other   in   the  world. 
Its  form   is   so  perfect,    that  the    spectator   traversing    the 
arena    between    its  sloping    sides,    towards    the    sweep    at 
its  south-eastern  extremity,  almost  imagines  himself  to  be 
transported   to  the  age  in  which   it  was  prepared  for  the 
reception    of   its   innumerable    guests  :     and   when    seated 
in    the  higher  part  of  it,   where   people    from   all   Attica, 
ranged  by  thousands,  could  survey  a  still  gathering  multi- 
tude, thronging  eagerly  toward  the  spot;  every  countenance 
being  animated  by    the   greatness   of  the    solemnity,    and 
every  heart   beating  with  the  most  impatient  expectation  ; 
how    affecting     is     the    scene    before    him !     Nothing   is 
wanted  to  render  it  more  impressive,  but  the  actual  presence 
of    the    pomp    itself — the    noise    of    the    chariots  —  the 
prancing  and  the  neighing   of  the  horses  —  the  sounds  of 
the   music  —  the   exhibition   of  the  combatants — and   the 
vol.  in.  4  c  shouts 


561 


CHAP  XIH. 


562 


CHAP.  X1H. 


Sepulchre  of 
Herodes. 


ATHENS. 

shouts  of  the  people.  Even  the  passages  through  which 
ferocious  animals1  were  conducted  into  the  arena,  and  the 
entrances  and  retreats  for  those  who  contested  prizes,  do 
yet  remain  almost  in  their  entire  state.  Nothing  has  been 
removed  or  destroyed  but  the  parts  which  were  merely 
ornamental ;  and  these  are  not  missed  in  the  general  survey 
of  .a  structure  necessarily  simple  as  to  its  form,  but  inex- 
pressibly great  and  striking  in  its  aspect :  and  this  effect 
is  owing,  not  solely  to  its  artificial  character,  but  to  the 
grandeur  of  its  appearance  as  a  work  of  Nature;  the. very 
mountains  having  contributed  to  the  operations  of  art 
in  its  formation2.  Such  a  combination  may  be  often 
observed  in  antient  theatres  of  a  semicircular  form  ;  but 
there  is  not,  either  in  Hellas  or  in  Asia  Minor,  an  instance, 
where  the  natural  lineaments  of  the  country  have  admitted  of 
a  similar  adaptation  to  the  appropriate  shape  of  the  Grecian 
Stadium.  This  splendid  memorial  of  Attic  splendor,  and  of  the 
renown  of  a  private  citizen  of  Athens,  became  ultimately  his 
funeral  monument:  and  a  very  curious  discovery  may  be 
reserved  for  future  travellers  in  the  majestic  sepulchre  of 
Herodes  himself;  who  was  here  interred3  with  the  highest 

obsequies 

(1)  When  Hadrian  was  in  Athens,  he  presided  at  the  Panathencea,  and  caused  one 
thousand  wild  beasts  to  be  hunted  in  the  Stadium,  for  the  diversion  of  the  people. 
"  Athenis  vrille  ferarum  venationem  in  Stadio  exhibuit."    Spartianus,  in  ejus  Vita,  c.  ]g. 

(2)  There  is  a  very  fine  view  of  it,  as  engraved  by  Landseer  from  a  drawing  by 
Reveley,  in  Stuart's  Athens,  vol.  III.  c.  7.  PI.  3.    Land.  J  794. 

(3)  The  funeral  of  Herodes  Atticus  must  have  afforded  one  of  the  most  affecting 
solemnities  of  which  History  makes  mention.  He  was  seventy-six  years  old  when 
he  died :  and  in  the  instructions  which  he  left  for  his  interment,  he  desired  to  be 
buried  at  Marathon,  where  he  was  born ;  but  the  Athenians  insisted  upon  possessing 
his  remains,  and  they  caused   the   youth  of  their  city  to  bear  him  to  the   Stadium 

Payiathe- 


ATHENS.  5g3 

obsequies  and  most  distinguished  honours  a  grateful  people    chap.  xiii. 
could  possibly  bestow  upon  the  tomb  of  a  benefactor,  who 
spared  no  expense  for  them  while  he  was  living,  and  every 
individual  of  whom  participated  in  his  bounty  at  his  death4. 
A  little  eastward   of  the  Stadium  are  the  vestiges  of  the 
Temple  of  Diana  Agrcea.    Having  again  crossed  the  Ilissus, 
we    observed,    near    to    its    northern  bank,  some   remains 
which  Stuart  and  others  have  considered  as   those   of  the 
Lyceum.     Hence  we  proceeded  toward  the  east,  to  ascend 
Mount  Anchesmus,  and  to  enjoy  in  one  panoramic"  survey 
the  glorious  prospect  presented  from  its  summit,  of  all  the 
antiquities  and  natural  beauties  in  the  Athenian  Plain.     At 
the  foot  of  this  mount  were  the  remains  of  a  reservoir,  con- 
structed by  Hadrian  for  the  purpose  of  receiving  water  for 
his  new   city,  after  being  conveyed  by  a  most  expensive      Hadrian's 

Reservoir. 

aqueduct, 


Panathenaicum,  which  he  had  built ;  all  the  people  accompanying,  and  pouring  forth 
lamentations  as  for  a  deceased  parent.  'AQr,valoi,  roue  ruv  tyi'ifiav  -ytpalv  dpnd- 
aavrei,,  c<j  aarv  ijveyKav,  vpoairavTuvrtc,  ry  X£^£t  nana  qXiKia,  Satcpvou;  dp.a,  ical 
tvftjpovpTec,  ova  iralces,  yjpr](TTOv  irarpos  \rjpevaayTec.  (Philostratus  in  ejus  Vita, 
Sophist,  lil.'u.  Lips.l/OQ.)  What  a  subject  for  the  pencil  of  a  Raphael!  Histo- 
rical painters  sometimes  complain  that  every  event  in  antient  history  has  been  already 
handled  :  here  is  one,  at  least,  to  which  this  complaint  is  not  applicable. 

(4)  He  bequeathed  to  every  Athenian  a  sum  nearly  equal  to  three  pounds  of  our 
money. 

(5)  Since  the  plan  has  been  adopted  in  England  of  exhibiting  the  views  of  celebrated 
cities  by  the  sort  of  painting  called  Panorama,  a  hope  has  been  excited  that  Athens 
will  one  day  become  the  subject  of  such  a  picture ;  and  for  this  purpose  it  is  highly 
probable  that  Mount  Anchesmus  will  be  made  the  point  of  observation.  At  the  same 
time,  it  is  liable  to  this  objection  j  that  the  grandeur  of  effect  is  always  diminished  in 
proportion  to  the  elevation  of  the  spectator.  The  city  makes,  perhaps,  a  more  striking 
appearance  in  the  road  from  Eleusis,  immediately  after  leaving  the  defile  of  Daphne. 


■QBE  ;£*£$'*!»•*$"'**      -     B^H  |^Bb  HHMH 


564 


ATHENS. 


chap.  xin.    aqueduct,  whose  broken  piers  may  be  traced  to  the  distance 
of  seven  miles  from  the  spot,  in  a  north-easterly  direction, 
towards  the  country  between  Parnes   and   Pentelicus.     In 
Stuart's    time,    part   of   an    arcade    of    marble     remained, 
consisting  of  two  Ionic  columns,   with   their  entablature; 
and  the  spring  of  an  arch,   containing  the  fragment  of  an 
inscription,  which  was  remarkably  restored   by  Spon's   dis- 
covery of  the  entire  legend  in  a  manuscript  at  Zara\     It 
stated,    that  the  work  was  begun  by  Hadrian,  in  the  new 
Athens,  and  completed   by  his  son  Antoninus  Pius*.     The 
whole  fabric  is  now  destroyed,  so  that  even  the  site  of  the 
arcade   cannot  be  determined  ;    but  the   architrave  yet  re- 
mains, with  that  part  of  the  inscription  which  was  observed 
here  when  Wheler  and   Spon  visited  the  spot :  it  forms  the 
lintel    or  top   of  one   of    the   gates,    leading    towards   its 
antient   situation,  in  the  present  wall    of    the  city3.      We 
ascended  to  the  commanding  eminence  of  the  mount,  once 
occupied  by  a  temple  of  Anchesmian  Jupiter.     The  Pagan 
shrine  has,  as   usual,  been  succeeded  by  a   small  Christian 
sanctuary:  it  is  dedicated  to  St.  George.     Of  the  view  from 
this  rock,  even  Wheler  could   not  write  without  emotion. 

"  Here," 


Mount 
Anchesmus. 


(1)  Wheler  says  at  Spalatro.  See  Spon,  Voyage  de  Dalmatie,  &c.  torn.  I.  p.  51. 
a  la  Haye,  1/24. 

(2)  IMP-  CAESAR-  T-  AELIVS  •  HADRIANVS  •  ANTONINVS  •  AUG  •  PIVS  •  COS-  III  • 
TRIB  ■  POT  •  II  •  PP  •  AQVAEDVCTVM  •  IN  •  NOVIS  •  ATHENIS  -  COEPTVM  •  A  •  DIVO  • 
HADRIANa-  PATRE  •  SVO  •  CONSVMMAVIT  •  DEDICAVITQVE 

(3)  See  the  third  volume  of  Stuart's  Athens,  as  edited  by  Reveley,  p.  28.  Note  (a) 
Loml.  1794. 


ATHENS. 

"  Here,"  said  he4,  "  a  Democritus  might  sit  and  laugh  at  the 
pomps  and  vanities  of  the  world,  whose  glories  so  soon 
vanish;  or  an  Heraclitus  weep  over  its  manifold  misfortunes, 
telling  sad  stories  of  the  various  changes  and  events  of 
Fate."  The  prospect  embraces  every  object,  excepting  only 
those  upon  the  south-west  side  of  the  Castle.  Instead 
of  describing  the  effect  produced  in  our  minds  by  such 
a  sight,  it  will  be  more  consistent  with  the  present 
undertaking,  to  note  down  what  the  objects  really  are 
which  the  eye  commands  from  this  place.  It  is  a  plan  we 
propose  to  adopt  again,  upon  similar  occasions,  whenever 
the  observations  we  made  upon  the  spot  will  enable  us  so 
to  do.  The  situation  of  the  observer  is  north-east  of 
the  city:  and  the  Reader  may  suppose  him  to  be  looking,  in 
a  contrary  direction,  towards  the  Acropolis;  which  is  in 
the  centre  of  this  fine  picture:  thence,  regarding  the  whole 
circuit  of  the  Citadel,  from  its  north-western  side,  towards 
the  south  and  east,  the  different  parts  of  it  occur  in  the 
following  order ;  although,  to  a  spectator,  they  all  appear 
to  be  comprehended  in  one  view. 

Central  Object. 
The    lofty   rocks   of  the  Acropolis,  crowned  with    its 
maiestic  temples,   the  Parthenon.    Erect  heum,  Sec. 

Fore  Ground. 
The  whole  of  the  modern  city   of  Athens,   with  its 
gardens,  ruins,  mosques,  and  walls,  spreading  into  the  plain 

beneath 

(4)  Juurucy  uiio  biecce,  UoukV.  p.  3/4.    Lund.  lt)S2. 


565 


CHAP.  XIII. 


View  from  the 
summit. 


56*6  ATHENS. 

chap,  xiii.  beneath  the  Citadel.  The  procession  for  an  Albanian 
wedding,  with  music,  &c.  was  at  this  time  passing  out  of 
one  of  the  gates. 

Right,  or  North- Western  Wing. 
The  Temple  of  Theseus. 

Left,  or  South- Eastern  Wing. 
The  Temple  of  Jupiter  Olympius. 

View  beyond  the  Citadel,  proceeding  from  West,  to  South  and 

East. 

l .  Areopagus.  2.  Pnyx.  3.  Ilissus.  4.  Site  of  the  Temple 
of  Ceres  in  Agree,  and  Fountain  Callirhoe.  5.  Stadium 
Panathenaicum,  Site  of  the  Lyceum,  &c. 

Parallel  Circuit,  with  a  more  extended  radius. 

1.  Hills  and  Defile  of  Daphne,  or  Via  Sacra.  2.  Piraseus. 
3.  MunychiaandPhalerum.  4.  Salamis.  5.JEgina.  6.  More 
distant  isles.     ;.  Hymettus. 

Ditto,  still  more  extended. 

1.  Parnes.  2.  Mountains  beyond  Eleusis  and  Megara. 
3.  Acropolis  of  Corinth.  4.  Mountains  of  Peloponnesus. 
5.  The  iEgean  and  distant  Islands. 

Immediately  beneath  the  Eye. 

1 .  Plain  of  Athens,  with  Albanians  engaged  in  agriculture; 
herds  of  cattle,  &c.  &c. 

Hereafter, 


ATHENS. 


567 


Hereafter,  in  describing  prospects,  where  our  situation  as    ^chap.xiu. 
spectators    has  been  more  elevated,   and  the  view  thereby 
rendered  still  more  extensive,  as  well  as  the  objects  more 
numerous,    we    shall    complete    an   entire   circumference; 
noting     our    observations    according    to    the    points    of    a 
mariner's    compass,    after    the   plan   adopted   by  Wheler. 
During    the   time    that  we  were  occupied  in  making  our 
survey   from    this    eminence,    Lusieri   began    to    trace   the 
outlines    of   the    inestimable    View    of  Athens   which   he 
designed,  and  afterwards  completed,  upon  this  spot ;  adding 
every  colour,  even  the  most  delicate  tints  and  touches  of 
his  pencil,   while  the  objects  he  delineated  were  yet  before 
his  eyes l.    We  remained  with  him  during  the  greater  part  of 
the  day :  and  having  now  examined  all  the  principal  anti- 
quities in  the  immediate  vicinity  of  Athens,  we  returned  by 
the  gate  leading  to  Anciiesmus,  where  the  inscribed  marble, 
relating  to  Hadrian's  reservoir  for  water  at  the  foot  of  the 
mount,  is  now  placed.     After  entering  the  city,  we  resolved 
to  try  our   success  by  making  an  excavation,  not  only  in 
one  of  the  tombs,  but  also  in  the  exhausted  wells,  of  which 
there  are  many  in  the  neighbourhood  of  Athens. 


(l)  In  this  manner  he  finished  his  View  of  Constantinople,  taken  from  an  eminence 
above  the  Canal  ;  working  with  his  colours  in  the  open  air.  His  rival  Fauvel  was  not 
in  Athens  during  the  time  of  our  visit ;  a  Frenchman  equally  renowned,  for  his  talents 
as  an  artist,  his  researches  as  an  antiquary,  and  his  disinterested  attention  to  alj 
traveller*,  whether  of  his  own  or  of  any  other  nation. 


:non  across  :.UONI0TS. 

■i  .'", ./.•  Sarotticut.         vJcropo,  -  -  > 

"  ■  .  ■ 


CHAP.  XIV. 


CHAP.  XIV. 


ATHENS. 

Excavations — Great  Antiquity  of  the  Athenian  Wells — Curious  Inscrip- 
tion upon  a  Terra-cotta  Lamp —Excursion  to  Hymettus — Temple 
of  Diana  —  Monastery — Visit  to  the  summit  of  the  mountain  — 
Plants — Panoramic  Survey  of  the  Country — Return  to  Athens — 
Singular  Adventure  that  befel  the  Author — Description  of  the  Cere- 
monies of  the  Bath,  as  practised  by  the  Turkish  and  Grecian  Women 
— Further  observations  in  the  Acropolis — Inscriptions — Specimen  of 
Cadmaean  Characters — Additional  remarks  upon  the  Parthenon  — 
Effect  of  Sun-set  behind  the  Mountains  of  Peloponnesus. 

Having  hired  some  Albanian  peasants  for  the  work,  and 
obtained  permission  from  the  Wakvode,  we  began  the 
examination  of  some  of  the  wells.  Mr.  Cripps,  in  the  mean 
time,  superintended   the  excavation  of  a  tumulus  near  the 

road 


ATHENS. 


569 


road  leading  to  the  Pirceeus  ;  but  the  difficulty  of  carrying  on 
any  undertaking  of  this  kind,   owing  to   the  jealousy,  not 
only  of  the  Turks,  but  also  of  the   Greeks,  who  always 
suppose    that   some  secret  horde  of  gold   is  the   object   of 
research,  renders  it  liable  to  continual  interruption.     After 
two  days  spent  in  opening  the  tomb,  we  had  the  mortification 
to  find  that  it  had  been  examined  before ;   and  we  had  good 
reason   to   believe   that  a  knowledge  of  this   circumstance 
was  the  sole  ground  of  the  easy  permission  we  had  obtained 
to  begin  the  labour  for  the  second  time.     In  the  examination 
of  the  wells,  we  succeeded  better;  but  our  acquisitions  were 
as   nothing   compared  with   those  which   have  since  been 
made1.    The  reasons  which  induced  the  author  to  suspect 
that  the  cleansing  of  an  old  well  would  lead  to  the  dis- 
covery of  valuable  antiquities  were  these  :  first,  the  wells  of 
Greece  were  always  the  resort  of  its  inhabitants;   they  were 
places   of  conversation,    of   music,   dancing,   revelling,  and 
almost  every  kind  of  public  festivity;  secondly,  that  their 
remote  antiquity  is  evident  from  the  following  extraordinary 
circumstance.    Over  the  mouth  of  each  well  has  been  placed 
a  massive  marble  cylinder,  nearly  corresponding,  as  to  its 
form,   ornaments,  height,   and    diameter,   with   the  marble 
altars  which  are  so  commonly  converted  by  the  Turks  into 
mortars  for  bruising  their  corn.      A  very  entire  altar  of  this 

shape 

(1)  Particularly  by  Mr.  Dodwell,  and  by  Mr.  Graham  of  Trinity  College,  Cambridge, 
son  of  Sir  James  Graham,  Bart.  The  latter  of  these  gentlemen,  in  opening  one  of  the 
wells,  restored  to  the  inhabitants  of  Athens,  to  their  great  joy,  a  very  fine  spring  of  water, 
which  burst  forth  upon  the  removal  of  the  rubbish  by  which  the  well  was  filled  :  the 
most  valuable  gift  he  could  have  made  to  a  city  where  water  is  particularly  scarce. 
VOL.  III.  4  D 


CHAP.  XIV. 

Excavations. 


Great  Anti- 
quity of  the 
Athenian 
Wells. 


wm 


570  ATHE  N  S. 

chap.  xiv.  shape  is  in  the  Cambridge  collection  of  Greek  Marbles1. 
These  wells  had  no  contrivance  for  raising  water  by  means 
of  a  windlass,  or  even  of  the  simple  lever2,  common  over  all 
the  north  of  Europe,  which  is  often  poised  by  a  weight  at 
the  outer  extremity.  The  water  rose  so  near  to  the  surface, 
that  it  was  almost  within  reach  of  the  hand  ;  and  the  mode 
of  raising  it  was  by  a  hand-bucket,  with  a  rope  of  twisted 
herbs.  Owing  to  the  general  use  of  this  rope,  and  its  con- 
sequent friction  against  the  sides  of  the  well,  the  interior 
of  those  massive  marble  cylinders  has  been  actually  grooved 
all  round,  to  the  depth  of  two  or  three  inches :  in  some 
instances,  transverse  channels  appear  crossing  the  others 
obliquely,  and  to  an  equal  depth.  An  effect  so  remarkable, 
caused  in  solid  marble  by  its  attrition  with  one  of  the  softest 
substances,  affords  convincing  proof  that  a  great  length  of 
time  must  have  elapsed  before  any  one  of  those  furrows  in 
the  stone  could  have  been  so  produced;  and  that  many  ages 
would  be  requisite  to  form  such  channels  in  any  number. 

Having  selected  a  dry  well  for  our  experiment,  whose 
mouth  was  covered  by  a  cylinder  remarkably  distinguished 
by  this  appearance,  we  removed  a  quantity  of  stones  and 
rubbish,  and  found  at  the  bottom  a  substratum  of  moist 
marie.  In  this  humid  substance  (the  original  deposit  of 
the  water  when  the  well  was  used),  the  quantity  of 
terra-cotta   vessels,  lamps,    pitchers,    bottles,  some   entire, 

others 


(1)  Presented  to  the  author  by  Bridges  Harvey,  Esq.  M.  A.  of  Jesus  College.  It 
was  brought  from  Delos. 

(2)  The  lever  is  now  used  for  some  of  the  wells  in  Athens  ;  but  it  seems  probable 
that  the  use  of  this  mechanical  power  among  the  Modern  Greeks  was  introduced  by 
the  Albanians. 


ATHENS. 

others  broken,  was  very  great.      We  removed   not  fewer 
than  thirty-seven  in  an  entire   state,  of  various   sizes   and 
forms.       They     were    chiefly    of    a    coarse    manufacture, 
without  glazing  or  ornament  of  any  kind  ;  but  the  workmen 
brought  up  also  the   feet,   handles,   necks,   and  other  parts 
of  earthen  vases  of  a  very  superior  quality  and  workmanship : 
some  of  these  were  fluted,  and  of  a  jet  black  colour  ;  others 
of  a  bright  red,   similar  to  those  innumerable  fragments  of 
terra  cotta  found  upon  the  site  of  all  Grecian  cities ;  espe- 
cially in  the  outer  Ceramicus*,  and  in  the  sepulchres  of  Athens 
since  opened,  as  well  as  those  of  Italy  and  of  Sicily.    While 
this  work  was  going  on,  a  lamp  was  brought  to  us,  without 
any  information  of  the  place  where  it  was  found,  but  of  such 
singular  beauty  and  interest,  that  the  author  would  be  guilty 
of  an   unpardonable   omission  if  he  neglected  to  insert  its 
particular  description :  he  has  an  additional  motive  for  so 
doing;  namely,  the  hope  of  being  one  day  able  to  recover 
this  curious  relique  :  for  its  extraordinary  perfection  so  much 
excited  the   cupidity  of  one  of  the  Roman  formatori,  that 

having 


(3)  By  collecting  upon  the  spot  these  fragments  of  Grecian  pottery,  and  comparing 
•afterwards  the  fragments  found  upon  the  site  of  one  antient  city  with  those  discovered 
upon  the  site  of  another,  a  very  marked  difference  of  manufacture  may  be  observed. 
The  Corinthians  seemed  to  have  used  a  particularly  heavy  and  coarse  black  ware ; 
that  of  Athens  was  the  lightest  and  most  elegant ;  that  of  Sicyon  the  rudest  and  most 
antient.  The  mo  st  perfect  pottery  of  Modern  Greece  is  the  earthenware  of  Larissa, 
where  it  may  be  found  almost  equal  in  beauty  to  the  antient  terra  cotta.  Mr.  Cripps 
discovered  at  Athens,  upon  the  outside  of  the  city,  fragments,  of  the  finest  antient 
vases,  lying  as  in  a  quarry,  and  sufficient  in  quantity  to  prove  that  a  very  large  esta- 
blishment for  the  manufacture  of  earthenware  once  existed  upon  the  spot.  As  it 
remains  there  at  this  hour,  it  may  assist  in  deciding  the  disputed  'position  of  the  outer 
Ceramicus.  "  Fecit  et  Calcosthenes  cruda  opera  Athenis ;  qui  locus  ab  qfficina  ejus, 
Ceramicos  appellatur"     Plin.  Hist.  Nat.   lib.  xxxv.  c.  12.  L.Bat.  1635. 


■MMMW 


wQ0KpKHS3nBMKniBHH 


572  A  T  HENS. 

chap.  xiv.  having  volunteered  the  troublesome  and  difficult  task  of 
packing  up  our  antiquities  when  we  were  about  to  leave 
Athens,  he  availed  himself  of  the  opportunity  to  steal 
this  lamp ;  and  the  theft  was  not  discovered  until  the  case, 
said  by  him  to  contain  it,  was  opened  upon  its  arrival  in 
England.  Possibly,  therefore,  as  it  may  exist  in  some 
cabinet  of  Europe,  the  following  account  of  it  may 
hereafter  lead  to  the  knowledge  of  its  situation;  if  it 
do  not  prove  the  cause  of  its  destruction.  It  was  of  a 
black  colour,  like  to  our  dark  Wedgewood  ware:  when  first 
offered  to  us,  it  seemed  to  be  corroded  and  porous ;  but  after 
it  had  imbibed  a  little  oil,  it  appeared  as  perfect  as  if  it  had 
recently  issued  from  the  hands  of  the  Athenian  potter.  In 
shape  and  size  it  resembled  the  generality  of  antient  terra- 
cotta lamps;  being  of  a  circular  form,  and  about  three  inches 
in  diameter,  with  a  protruding  lip  for  the  wick  in  one  part 
of  the  circumference.  Upon  the  top  of  this  lamp,  a  lion 
was  represented  in  an  erect  posture ;  the  figure  of  the 
animal  expressing   all   the   energy   and   greatness    of    style 

Curious  in-       peculiar  to  the   best  age  of  sculpture.      Within  the  circle  at 

scriptionupon 

aTerm-cotta     the  bottom  of  the  lamp  was  this  inscription  : 

Lamp. 

XflKPAT 
HZEXE 

znoN 

SOCRATES  •  ACCEPT- THIS  •  ANIMAL 

It  seems   therefore  to   have  been   originally   one    of  those 
offerings  called  vegregw  uyaXftaru  by  Euripides1,  the  imagines, 

or, 


(l)  Kot  /ii?}v  6pM  auv  Trarepa   ytpaiw  110Z1 

"SreiyovT  owacovt:,   r   tv   yzpoiv  ict/aapTt   <d) 
Kvauoy  <j>ipovT(te,   vapripuv  uyaXuara. 

Euripid.  in  Ale.   v.  ()J2.   p.  282.     Cantal.  169-i. 


ATHENS. 


5/3 


Excursion  to 
Hymettus. 


or,  as  usually  translated,  grata  munera,  which  the  friends  of     c"ap.xiv. 
a  deceased  person  were  wont  to  carry  after  the  corpse  during 
the  funeral  procession  :  and  perhaps  it  was  deposited  in  the 
grave  of  the  most  celebrated  philosopher  of  the  antient  world. 
During  the  first  days  of  November  we  continued  our 
researches  with  the  utmost  diligence,  both  in  making  these 
excavations,  and  in  endeavouring  to  find  Inscriptions  which 
had  escaped  the  notice  of  former  travellers.    Upon  the  third 
of  this  month  we  set  out  upon  an  excursion  to  Hymettus'2, 
intending  to   visit  the  summit   of  the   mountain.     Having 
taken  with  us  horses,  a  guide,  and  provisions  for  the   day, 
we  left  Athens  for  this  purpose,  at  sun-rise;   Signor  Lusieri 
being  of  our  party.    In  our  way  we  crossed  the  Ilissus  ;  and 
again  passing  the  Stadium,  we  visited  a  small  Greek  chapel 
towards  the  east,   upon  the  top  of  a  hill.    This  building  was 
alluded  to  in  the  preceding  Chapter,  as  marking  the  site  of 
the  Temple  of  Diana  Jgrcea,  or  Agrotcra.    We  saw  here  the 
remains  of  columns  of  three  distinct  orders  in  architecture ; 
the    most    antient   Doric,    the    Ionic,    and    the    Corinthian ; 
therefore  it   is  rather  the  situation   of  the  building,    with 
reference  to   the  course   pursued   by  Pausanias',    than  any 
specific  part  of  the  antiquities   remaining,   which    may  be 

relied 


Temple  of 
Diana. 


(2)  "  Many  places  in  Greece  preserve  their  antient  names  :  others  retain  them  with 
a  slight  alteration  ;  as,  Elimbo  for  Olympus  ;  Lyakoura  for  Parnassus,  from  Lycorea  the 
antient  city  upon  that  mountain:  others  bear  appellations  imposed  on  them  by  the 
Venetians  and  Genoese  :  but  no  instance  lias  occurred  of  a  more  singular  meta- 
morphosis in  Grecian  nomenclature  than  in  the  name  of  Hymettus.  The  Venetians, 
who  called  it  Monte  Hymetto,  corrupted  it  into  Monte  Ma  I  to:  Mat  to  signifies  mad; 
and  the  modern  Greeks  have  chosen  to  translate  the  two  words  literally,  by  Trdo-Vouni^ 
'  the  Mad  Mountain'.  "     Walpole's  MS.  Journal.. 

(3)  Vid.  Pausan.  in  Atticis,  c.  )Q.  p.  44.     Edit.  Kuhnii.     Lips.  I6g6. 


MMHVMHnftl 


99W9V^At^f^f^K^0^M0tftltfU^tttt^tttttUtMitSSt  3SEES339I 


Monastery. 


ATHENS. 

relied  upon,  as  denoting  where  this  temple  of  Dicma  stood, 
After  his  visit  to  the  Gardens,  and  the  Temple  of  Venus 
(in  hortis),  having  mentioned  the  Shrine  of  Hercules 
(which  was  called  Cynosdrges) ,  and  the  Lyceum,  being  still 
eastward  of  the  Stadium,  he  crosses  the  Ilissus,  in  that 
part  of  it  where  it  received  the  Eridanus  ;  and  entering 
Agra,  or  Agr^e1,  immediately  upon  his  arrival  st  the 
southern  side  of  the  river2,  notices  the  Temple  of  Diak  ^ 
Agrotera.  No  part  of  his  description  seems  to  be  involve  m 
less  uncertainty  than  his  position  of  this  edifice,  which  exa  \y 
corresponds  with  that  of  the  Greek  chapel  nowmentioi    J. 

Hence  we  proceeded  to  the  Monastery  of  Saliani*, 
upon  Mount  Hymettus.  Chandler  believed  this  to  have 
been  antiently  renowned  as  the  scene  where  the  jealous 
Procris  met  her  fate  from  the  unerring  dart  of  Diana, 
which  she  had  given  to  her  husband  Cephalus*.  A  temple 
of  Venus  stood  upon  the  spot ;  and  near  to  it  there 
was  a  fountain  whose  water  was  believed  to  conduce  to 
pregnancy,  and  to  an  easy  delivery.  The  modern  supersti- 
tion with  regard  to  the  fountain,  which  is  close  to  the 
Convent,  confirmed  his  opinion  in  a   manner  that  he  does 

not 


(1)  "Ay  pa,  Kal'1  Ay  pat,  \bipiov,  iviKuq  koX  7t\i)0vi'tikw.  Stephanus.  Vid.  Meurs. 
lib.  de  Populis  Atticae,  ap.  Gronov.  Thesaur.  Grace.  Antiq.  vol.  IV.  p.  683.  L.  Bat.  1 6QQ. 

(2)  Ata/octct  fie  rov  EtXtercoV,  yapiov  "\ypai  KaXovficvov,  teal  vads  'Aypo-cpac 
ierTiv'ApTspiiSos.      Pausan.  c.  19.  p. 45.     Lips.  1696. 

(3)  So  we  believed  the  name  to  be  pronounced;  perhaps  corrupted  from  some 
derivative  of  'ZaXsvu,  Jiuctuo;  the  water  here  continually  gushing  forth.  Wheler  calls 
this  place  Hagios  Kyriani ;  Chandler,  Cyriani ;  and  Stuart  has  written  it,  in  his  Map 
of  Attica,  Monastery  of  Syriani. 

(4)  See  Chandler's  Trav.  in  Greece,  p.  145.     Oxf.  1776. 


ATHENS. 


575 


not  appear  to  have  noticed :  the  priest  told  him.  that  ^CHAP-  X1V- 
"a  dove  is  seen  to  fly  down  from  heaven,  to  drink  of  the 
water  annually,  at  the  feast  of  Pentecost."  It  is  remark-  * 
able  that  an  ignorant  superstition  should  thus  have  selected 
the  bird  which  was  peculiarly  sacred  to  Venus:  and  Chandler 
also  adds,  that  the  Greek  women  still  repair  to  the  Monastery 
at  particular  seasons.  Being  earnest  in  the  pursuit  of 
antiquities,  we  neglected  to  attend,  as  we  ought  to  have 
done,  to  the  traditions  of  the  inhabitants ;  but  we  found 
enough  to  convince  us  that  this  was  the  site  of  some 
antient  temple.  We  observed  in  the  church  of  the 
Monastery  several  Ionic  columns ;  also  the  shaft  of  a 
pillar  of  granite  ;  and  at  the  fountain  we  saw  the  head 
of  a  bull,  or  of  a  cow5,  sculptured  upon  a  white  marble 
Soros,  now  used  as  a  cistern.  This  Monastery  is  visible 
from  Athens.  The  water  from  the  fountain  falls  into  the 
Ilissus.  We  found  here  a  slab  of  white  marble,  with  an 
inscription  ;  the  stone  had  been  brought  from  some  ruins 
near  another  convent,  higher  up  than  the  Monastery,  and 
upon  an  opposite  eminence  towards  Athens.  Our  guide 
wished  much  to  conduct  us  thither ;  but  we  postponed  going, 
in  order  to  copy  this  inscription,  until  it  was  too  late  ;  as  we 
wished  to  reach  the  summit  of  Hymettus  before  noon,  that 
we  might  there  estimate  the  temperature  of  the  atmosphere, 

and 


(5)  The  Venus  of  Egypt  and  of  Pkocnicc  had  this  form.  The  image  of  Isis, 
according  to  Herodotus  (lib.  n.),  had  the  form  of  a  woman  with  the  horns  of  a  cow 
upon  her  head,  as  the  Grecians  represented  JO.  Wheler  seems  to  allude  to  this  piece 
of  sculpture,  (See  Journey  into  Greece,  Book  VII.  p.  411.  Lond.  1682.)  but  he  calls 
it  "  a  sheep's  head." 


HSRM'll9%9tlPlH4VlHHHCTMw^H|HMBMBMH  ■HBMmBRSMhSHBhmKBBBBIBbBI 


576 


ATHENS, 


chap.  xiv.  an(i  alSo  avail  ourselves  of  the  clearness  and  serenity  of 
the  weather  for  other  observations.  From  the  distant  view 
*  we  had  of  those  ruins,  added  to  the  description  given  of 
them,  there  seemed  to  be  a  ground-plot  and  foundation  as 
for  a  temple.  This  marble,  which  had  been  brought  from 
the  spot,  will  of  course  render  the  place  worthy  the  exami- 
nation of  future  travellers.  The  subject  of  the  Inscription 
relates  to  the  genealogy  of  some  family.  We  have  since 
found  that  it  has  been  already  published  by  Chandler,  who 
takes  no  notice  of  the  place  where  it  was  originally  dis- 
covered ;  but  as  it  may  be  consulted  in  the  works  of  that 
author,  we  shall  not  offer  it  a  second  time  to  the  public1. 

From  this  Monastery  it  is  practicable  to  ride  the 
whole  way  to  the  summit  of  Hymettus  ;  but  we  preferred 
walking,  that  we  might  the  more  leisurely  examine 
every  object,  and  collect  the  few  plants  in  flower  at 
this  late  season  of  the  year2.  We  saw  partridges  in 
great  abundance ;  and  bees,  in  all  parts  of  the  moun- 
tain ;  not  only  at  the  Monastery,  where  a  regular 
apiary  is  kept,  but  also  in  such  number  dispersed  and 
feeding  about  the  higher  parts  of  Hymettus,  that  the 
primeval  breed3  may  still  exist  among  the  numerous 
wild    stocks    which   inhabit    the    hollow   trees    and   clefts 

of 


Visit  to  the 
Summit  of 
the  Mountain. 


(1)  Vid.  Inscript.  Antiq.  p.  64.  AAAOTKO,  k.  t.  \. 

(2)  'Our  specimens  were  all  lost  in  the  wreck  of  the  Princessa  merchantman;  but 
Wheler  has  given  a  catalogue  of  the  plants  collected  by  him,  in  the  month  of  February, 
upon  this  mountain.     See  Journey  into  Greece,  Book  VI.  p.  414.     Lond.  1682. 

(3)  The  Anlients  belived  that  bees  were  first  bred  here,  and  that  all  other  bees  were 
but  colonies  from  this  mountain. 


ATHENS. 

of   the    rocks.      Their   favourite    food,    the    wild    Thyme 
(%g*o*.Xov,  Thymus  Serpyllum,  Linn.),  in  almost  every  variety, 
grows  abundantly  upon  the  mountain,  together  with  Salvia 
pomifera,  and  Salvia   verbascum;  and  to  this  circumstance 
may  be   owing  the  very  heating   quality  of  the  honey  of 
Hymettus.     The    powerful    aromatic    exhalation    of    these 
plants  fills  the  air  with  a  spicy  odour:  indeed,  this  scented 
atmosphere  is  a  very  striking  characteristic  of  Greece   and 
of  its  islands,  but  it  peculiarly  distinguishes   the  mountains 
of  Attica.       The    0yp?  of  Theophrastus  and   Dioscorides 
was    used    as    incense    in    the    temples.       We    could    hear 
nothing  of  the  silver  mines4   mentioned  by  Strabo,   where 

the 


577 


(4)  "  The   Athenians,  we  are   informed,  obtained  copper  from  Colone,  close  to 

Athens;   where  Scphocles  has  laid  the  scene  of  one  of  his  most  beautiful  plays.     Silver 

was  procured  from  Laurium,  and  was  the  metal  in  general  circulation  :   there  were  ten 

different  coins  of  silver,  from  the  tetradrachm  to  the  quarter  of  an  obolus.     Lead  was 

purchased  from  the  Tyrians  :  ToV  /uoXvftcov  tov  Ik  twv  Tvpiav,    are  the  words  of 

Aristides.    II.  Be  Cur.  Rei  Fam.  3Q6.     Gold  was  so  scarce,  at  one  time,  in  Greece,  that 

the  Lacedaemonians  could  find  none  to  gild  the  face  of  the  statue  of  Apollo  at  Amyclae, 

(ovk  evpiffKovres  (v  rij  'EXXt^t  yjpvaiov ,  Athene,  231.)  and  therefore  sent  to  Lydia  for 

it.     There  was  an  abundance  when  the  Temple  of  Apollo  was  plundered  by  the  Phocian 

tyrants,  and  when  Alexander  had  pillaged,  says  Athenaeus,  the  treasures  of  Asia : 

lib.  vi.  231.     It  is  worth  remarking,  that  we  can  tell  pretty  nearly  the  century  in 

which  the  mines  of  silver  of  Laurium  (which  was  about  thirty  miles  S.  E.  from  Athens) 

began  to  fail ;  at  least  according  to  the  opinion  of  the  Antients.    Thucydides  mentions 

them  in  two  places  of  his  History  (Book  ii.  and  vi.) :  in  the  sixth  book  he  talks  of  the 

revenue  derived  from  the  silver  mines.     It  is  the  object  of  a  treatise  of  Xenophon  -to 

recommend  the  Athenians  to  work  the  silver  mines  of  Laurium  (jrepl  wopuv).     But 

what  do  Strabo  and  Pausanias  say  ?    The  latter  asserts  that  they  hadfailed.     Strabo's 

words  are  decisive  as  to  this  point:  (Book  ix.)  'The  silver  mines  in  Attica,  formerly 

celebrated,  are  now  deficient.    The  men  who  work  there,  submitting  again  to  the 

operation  of  fire   the   former  refuse   and  scoria   (aKMpiav),  find  silver  still  in  it :   the 

Antients  having  used  their  furnaces  without  any  skill.'     The  ground  about  Laurium  is 

covered  frequently,  for  many  yards,  with  great  quantities  of  scoria,  lying  in  the  road." 

JValpoles  MS.  Journal. 


CHAP.  XIV. 
Plants. 


VOL.   III. 


4   E 


P^SPmKIRqmpSN  Hmiw*SMmI     MMHiPMMB        BhBB    >««»t A^  HH^H       BBBBBSBBBBBBBB     BBBBBBH        I 


579  ATHENS. 

"v*  the  best  honey  of  Hymettus  was  found.  The  ascent 
was  truly  delightful;  the  different  prospects  varying  in 
extent  and  magnificence,  as  we  pursued  a  devious  track 
among  the  rocks,  in  our  way  upwards  to  the  top  of  the 
mountain.  We  reached  the  summit  about  twelve  o'clock  : 
there  was  no  wind,  and  the  sky  was  without  a  cloud.  We 
had  some  difficulty  to  find  a  shaded  situation  for  the  ther- 
mometer: however,  the  difference  amounted  only  to  three 
degrees  of  Fahrenheit,  whether  the  scale  remained  in  the 
shade,  or  exposed  to  the  sun's  rays.  The  mercury  stood 
at  48y  in  the  former  situation,  and  it  rose  only  to  51°  in 
the  latter;  affording  sufficient  proof  of  the  mild  climate  of 
Attica,  in  this  warm  temperature  upon  the  summit  of 
its  loftiest  mountain,  in  the  beginning  of  the  month  of 
November1.  Even  upon  this  elevated  spot,  and  upon  the 
naked  surface  of  the  limestone,  without  an  herb  or  a  drop 
of  water  to  allure  it,  one  of  the  wild  bees  came  and  settled 
upon  the  scale  of  the  thermometer,  as  if  curious  to  inquire 
what  singular  intrusion  interrupted  its  aerial  solitude.  We 
did  not  perceive  any  remarkable  difference  between  the 
apj >earance  of  this  insect  upon  Hymettus,  and  the  common 
bee  of  our  own  country,  except  that  we  considered  the 
forme  as  rather  smaller,  and  of  a  more  golden  colour. 
Lusieri  had  already  placed  himself  upon  a  sloping  part  of  the 
summit  facing  the  south,  and  was  beginning  to  delineate  the 

wonderful 


(l)  It  may  perhaps  be  asked  why  the  author  did  not  carry  a  barometer,  rather 
than  a  thermometer,  to  the  summit  of  Hymettus : — simply,  because  such  instruments 
are  not  lound  in  any  part  of  the  Turkish  Empire  ;  nor  indeed  anywhere  else,  in  per- 
fection, except  in  England. 


ATHENS. 

wonderful  sight  he  beheld.  From  the  spot  where  he  was 
seated,  a  tremendous  chasm  of  Hymettus,  awfully  grand, 
extended,  in  one  wide  amazing  sweep,  from  the  summit  to 
the  base  of  the  mountain.  Into  this  precipitous  ravine  there 
projected  from  its  sides  the  most  enormous  crags  and  per- 
pendicular rocks.  These  he  had  chosen  to  be  the  fore-ground 
of  his  sublime  picture ;  the  eye  looking  down  into  an  abyss 
which  at  the  bottom  opened  into  a  glorious  valley,  reaching 
across  the  whole  promontory  of  Attica,  from  sea  to  sea. 
All  beyond  was  the  broad  and  purple  surface  of  the  ^Egean, 
studded  with  innumerable  islands,  and  shining  with  streaks 
of  the  most  effulgent  light.  While  he  was  engaged  in  his 
delightful  employment,  we  undertook  a  task  of  less  diffi- 
culty ;  namely,  that  of  making  a  panoramic  survey  of  all 
the  principal  objects ;  noting  their  situation  according  to 
the  points  of  a  mariner's  compass,  which  we  placed  upon 
the  upmost  pinnacle  of  the  mountain ;  beginning  with  the 
north  point,  and  proceeding  regularly  from  left  to  right,  so 
as  to  complete  an  entire  circumference  whose  centre  is  the 
summit  of  Hymettus. 


Panoramic  Survey  of  Attica,  the  ./Egean  Sea,  &c. 
from  the  Summit  of  Hymettus. 

North. 
Parnes  mountain,  and  the  valley  east  of  Athens,  leading  to    Panoramic 

D-V  i        i  .  .  -~  ,  7  Survey  of  the 

rentelicus  :  the  highest  point  of  Parnes  bearing  due  north.       country.. 

North  North-East. 
A  very  high  mountain  covered  with  snow,  of  a  conical 
torm,  but  at  so  great  a  distance  that  we  could  not  decide 
with  certainty  as  to  its  name :  possibly   it   may  have   been 

the 


'.V-*'*''  **)*** 


"r-*Tf-  *=T.^^. 


MMHMNBl 


■mMHHMB 


^-T*3S5?3        53§355!3R3s553» 


580 


CHAP.  XIV. 


ATHENS. 

the  mountain  mentioned  by  Wheler,  belonging  to  Eubcea. 
and  now  called  Delphi1;  but  the  bearing,  according  to  his 
observation,  was  north  and  hy  cast.  Nearer  to  the  eye, 
in  this  direction  (n.  n.  e.),  is  one  of  the  mountains  of  Eubcea, 
extending  from  north  and  hy  east  to  north-east ;  that  is  to 
say,  the  mountainous  chain  of  Negropont. 

North- East. 
Pentelicus  mountain,  intercepting,  with  its  summit,  the 
visible  range  of  the  Negropont  mountains. 

North-East  and  hy  East. 

The   range  of  Eubcban  Mountains    (olim,  Ocha  Mons), 

extending    to    east   and   by   south  :    the   Sea  of  Marathon 

intervening  in  front. 

East. 

The  Southern  Promontory  of  Eubcea,  called  Caristo. 

East  and  by  South. 
The  strait  between  Andros  and  Eubcea. 

East  South- East. 
The  summit  of  Andros. 

South- East  and  by  East. 
Tenos  :  nearer  to  the  eye,  and  nearly  in  the  same  direc- 
tion, the   north  point   of  Macronisi,   or    Isle    of    Helena. 
extending  thence  towards  south-east  and  by  south. 

South- East. 

Gyaros,  now  called  Jura;  and  half  a  point  more  towards 

the  south,  Mycone,  and  the  Delian  Isles. 

South- 

(1)  See  Journey  into  Greece,  p.  410.    Lond.  1682. 


nam- 


ATHENS.  581 

South-East  and  by  South.  chap.xiv. 

Eastern  point  of  Z'ia,  Ceos  ;   this   island  concealing  all 
the  Cy  chides  excepting  Cythnus,  now  Thermia. 

South  South- East. 
Island  of  Ceos,  now  Zta. 

South  and  by  East. 
Cythnus,  now  Thermia,  appearing  beyond  the  southern 
point  of  Ceos  ;  and  nearer  to  the  eye,  a  mountain  extending 
across  the  promontory  of  Attica  from  sea  to  sea,  being 
opposed  to  Hymettus,  (perhaps  that  called  E/imbo).  Still 
nearer,  beneath  the  view,  the  great  valley  which  lies 
between  the  two  mountains,  composing  the  three  grand 
features  of  all  Attica,  south-east  of  Athens. 

South. 
Cape    Sunium,    bearing  into    the    sea,   in  a  line  from 
north-east  to  south-west. 

South  and  by  West. 
A  lofty  cape,  with  lower  islands  so  much  resembling 
the  Cape  and  Precipice  of  Samos,  with  the  Samian  Boccaze, 
and  the  Isles  of  Fourni  and  Nicaria,  that  nothing  but  its 
situation  by  the  compass  could  convince  us  to  the  contrary. 
The  rude  sketch    made  upon  the  spot    will  give    an   idea 


of  its  appearance.     We  know  not  the  name   either  of  the 
cape  or  of  the  islands.     The  distance  in  which  they  are 

here 


*7W* 


^HmmMM 


HHmK  MfiHGHIiwHEH     BHHBMH 


582  ATHENS. 

chap.  xiv.  here  viewed  was  the  utmost  stretch  of  the  radius  of  our 
circle :  they  were  seen  only  by  the  outline  of  their  forms., 
thus  interrupting  the  horizontal  line  of  the  sea.  The  only 
land  in  this  direction,  as  laid  down  in  D'Anville's  Chart  of 
the  Archipelago,  that  could  have  been  visible  to  us,  is  the 
Island  of  Falconera;  Milo  being  to  the  east  of  the  south. 
Nearer  to  the  eye,  in  the  same  direction,  we  saw  the  Island 
of  St.  George  D  Arbor  i. 

Between  South  and  by  West,  and  South  South-West. 

An  island  at  an  immense  distance,  perhaps  Caravi:  it 
had  some  resemblance  to  Patmos ;  and  our  stupid  guide 
insisted  upon  it  that  it  was  actually  Patmos  ;  calling  it  also 
eAy*awV<,  "  Holy  Island." 

South  South-West. 

The  open  sea.  Close  to  the  eye,  upon  the  coast  of 
Attica,  a  large  mountain,  forming,  on  this  side  of  Hymettus, 
a  profound  and  magnificent  valley  with  precipitous  sides. 

South-West  and  by  South. 
An  island  somewhat  resembling  Amorgos  in  its  shape, 
but  quite  in   a  different  situation,    appearing   beyond   the 
south-eastern  point  of  Hydra;  perhaps  Belo  Poulo. 

South- West. 
Aristera,  now  called  Hydra;  extending  in  a  line  from 
the  south-east  towards  the  north-west. 

South- 


*fc.-.v.*'',a"(/i'itj*,3 


ATHENS. 

South- West  and  by  West, 
The  ScylljEan  Promontory,  and  entrance  to  the 
Gulph  of  Argos  ;  a  small  island  lying  in  the  mouth  of  it : 
the  whole  territory  of  Argolis  being  visible  in  this  direction  ; 
its  mountainous  ridges  exhibiting  vast  irregular  undulations, 
like  the  boiling  of  a  troubled  sea. 


583 


CHAP.  XIV. 
*— N ' 


West  South-West. 

Sinus  Saronicus  :  the  Island  of  ^Egina,  backed  by  the 
Mountains  of  Epidaurus. 

West  and  by  South. 

More  distant  summits  of  Peloponnesus,  even  to  Arcadia, 
seen  between  two  small  islands  north-west  of  Mgina. 

West. 

Smaller    Isles,    and    Rocks,    towards   the   north   of  the 
Saronic  Gulph  ;  and  distant  Mountains  of  Peloponnesus. 

West  and  by  North. 
Phalerum;  and  beyond  it,  the  south-west  part  of  the 
Island  of  Salamis. 


West  North- West : 

Piraeus  ;  the  Island  of  Salamis;  the  Acropolis 
of  Corinth,  backed  by  very  lofty  mountains,  separating 
Arcadia  and  Achaia,  in  the  interior  of  Peloponnesus. 

North- 


584 

CHAP.  XIV. 


ATHENS. 
North-  West  and  by  West. 
Megara  ;  Mons  Gerane  a  ;  and  other  high  mountains 


more  distant. 


North  -  West. 


Eleusis,  backed  by  a  mountainous  territory:  the  extre- 
mity of  the  Saronic  Gulph  :  and  in  this  direction  the 
point  of  JEgaleos  is  visible  where  Xerxes  is  supposed  to 
have  sat  during  the  battle  of  Salamis. 

Then  succeeds  the  Plain  of  Athens,  covered,  on  the 
northern  side,  by  extensive  olive-plantations:  afterwards, 
still  nearer  to  the  eye,  appear  the  Acropolis  and  City 
of  Athens,  and  all  the  Athenian  Plain  at  the  foot 
of  Hymettus.  Athens,  as  viewed  from  this  situation, 
makes  a  most  beautiful  appearance  :  a  description  of  it  may- 
be written  as  from  a  model.  It  lies  in  a  valley,  having 
Phalerum  and  the  Sea  to  the  west,;  Mount  Pentelicus 
to  the  east ;  the  mountainous  range  of  Parnes,  or  Nozia, 
to  the  north  ;  and  Hymettus  upon  the  south.  In  the  plain 
of  this  fine  valley,  thus  surrounded  by  vast  natural  ramparts, 
there  are  other  very  remarkable  geological  features.  A  series 
of  six  insular  mountain  rocks,  of  breccia,  surmounted  by 
limestone,  rise  in  the  plain  in  very  regular  succession,  from 
the  east  towards  the  west;  (that  is  to  say,  from  Pentelicus 
towards  the  sea  ;)  gradually  diminishing  in  that  direction. 
The  Hill  of  Musceus  is  the  last  of  the  succession;  that  is  to 
say,  it  is  the  sixth  in  the  series  towards  Phalerum.  The 
Acropolis  of  Athens  stands  upon  the  fifth,  or  the  last  but  one, 
towards  the  sea.    The  fourth  is  the  lofty  reck  called  Mount 

jinchesmus ; 


ATHENS. 


585 


Anchesmus ;  and  this  rock,  by  some  convulsion  of  Nature,  tCHAP.xiv. 
has  been  separated  into  two  parts  :  farther  towards  the  east 
are  three  other,  carrying  on  the  series  towards  Pentelicus1. 
On  the  northern  side  of  the  city  is  a  range  of  olive  planta- 
tions :  between  these  and  Hymettus,  in  the  plain,  occurs 
the  chain  of  rocks,  extending  east  and  west :  the  south 
side  of  the  plain,  nearer  to  the  base  of  Hymettus,  wears  a 
barren    aspect4,    broken   by  mountainets,    hills,   and  rocks. 

Parnes, 


(l)  No  person  will  accuse  an  author  of  being  prolix  who  endeavours  to  make 
his  Readers  familiar  with  this  interesting  territory,  by  every  possible  mode  of  description. 
The  most  youthful  Student  may  be  taught  to  model  it  with  the  greatest  facility. 
By  placing  three  books  on  a  table,  in  the  form  of  a  Greek  IT,  he  will  have  the 
juxta-position  of  the  three  mountains,  Parnes,  Pentelicus,  and  Hymettus,  and  the  sea  in 
front  upon  the  open  side  ;  then  if  he  place  six  counters,  or  pebbles,  diminishing  in 
size  in  a  right  line  within  the  area,  between  the  two  parallel  sides,  in  this  manner, 
he  will  bear  in  his  memory  a  key  to  the  topography  of  Athenian  history,  which 
will  not  easily  be  lost. 


Parnes. 


*&' 


3    *r  <!V 


,-v 


fp 


jjjl" 


HYMETTUS. 

(2)  "  On  the  road  from  Marathon  to  the  monastery  on  Pentelicus,  and  on  that 
from  Keratia  back  to  Athens,  we  passed  some  spots  which  in  beauty  of  natural  scenery 
might  vie  with  any  thing  we  had  seen  in  Greece.  The  Athenians  were  very  partial  to 
a  country  life  (Thucydides,  lib.  ii.) ;  and  many  of  these  places,  like  that  beautiful 
village  of  Cephissias,  seven  miles  to  the  north  of  Athens,  which  Aulus  Gellius  has 
described,  were  the  favourite  abodes  of  the  Athenians,  whenever  they  could  retire  from 
the  noise  of  the  popular  assemblies  at  Athens.  It  does  not  however  appear  that  they 
attended  much  to  the  agriculture  of  the  country  :  "  Every  man,"  says  Xenophon,  (de 
CEcon.)  '*  may  be  a  farmer  j  no  art  or  skill  is  requisite  :"  a  very  good  proof,  observes 
Hume,  that  agriculture  was  not  much  understood.  When  we  consider  this,  and  the 
natural  sterility  of  Attica,  which  the  Antients  so  often  mention,  (see  the  Schol.  on 
Olym.  7.  of  Pindar,)  we  cannot  but  wonder  at  the  great  population  which  the 
country  was  able  to  maintain.  Heyne  says  barley  was  indigenous  in  the  north  of  Attica : 
and  the  olive-tree,  which  abounds  in  this  country,  might  have  contributed  to  the 
VOL.  III.  4  f  support 


JgEaD  hm!  IHfl  BWWMW  ESS 


586 


AT  HENS 


chap.  xiv.     Parties,  Pentelicus,  and  Hymettus,  are  all  barren,  and,  from 
this  elevation,  seem  to  be  destitute  of  trees. 

North-West  and  by  North. 

Exceeding  high  mountains  of  Bceotia  and  Phocis; 
one,  nearer  to  the  eye,  shaped  like  a  saddle,  forming  a  range 
with  Panics  from  e.n.e.  tow.  s.  w.  In  this  direction,  and 
immediately  under  the  view,  lies  the  double-rock  of  Anchcs- 
nius,  in  the  Athenian  plain,  to  the  east  of  Athens.  With 
regard  to  the  distant  mountains,  they  are  probably  Helicon, 
now  Zagara,  and  Cith^eron,  now  Elatcea.  Wheler  lays 
the  first  n.  w.  by  w. ;  and  the  second,  he  says,  begins  n.  w. 
by  w.  and  ends  N.  w.  by  n. 

North  North  -  West. 
Another  distant  and  very  lofty  mountain,  appearing  with 
its  blue  peak  towering  behind  the  range  of  Mount  Parnes, 
and  possibly  Parnassus. 

North  and  hy  West. 
Part  of  the  range  of  Parnes;  and,  nearer  to  the  eye,  the 
fine  valley  or  plain  of  Athens. 

North, 


support  of  great  numbers ;  it  being  used  antiently,  as  it  is  now,  for  a  common  article  of 
daily  food.  But  immense  supplies  of  corn  were  constantly  imported  from  Sicily,  Egypt, 
and  the  Euxine.  Attica  was  not  able  to  maintain  her  inhabitants  :  these  we  may 
calculate,  in  the  year  312  A.  C.  at  524,000 ;  supposing  the  text  in  Athenaeus  to  be  not 
corrupted.  There  were  21,000  citizens,  and  10,000  strangers:  allowing  to  each  of 
these  a  wife  and  two  children,  we  have  the  number  of  free  persons,  1 24,000 ;  and 
adding  the  slaves,  {according  to  Athenceus,)  400,000,  we  find  524,000  to  be  the 
aggregate.     Attica  contained  855  square  leagues."     IValpoles  MS.  Journal. 


ATHENS. 

North. 
Has  been  already  noticed.      The  Circle  is  therefore   here 
completed. 

The  desire  of  leaving  a  memorial  of  the  visit  one  has 
paid  to  any  memorable  spot,  seems  to  be  so  natural,  that 
however  the  practice  may  have  been  derided,  the  most 
eminent  travellers,  in  common  with  the  most  insignificant, 
have  left  their  names  in  some  conspicuous  situation  :  those 
of  Wheler  and  Spon  have  been  observed  upon  the  walls  of 
the  Temple  of  Theseus  ;  that  of  Shaw  remains  in  the  Fran- 
ciscan Convent  at  Jerusalem ;  that  of  Pococke  at  Thebes, 
in  Upper  Egypt;  and  that  of  Hasselquist  upon  the  principal 
pyramid  of  Memphis.  Upon  the  summit  of  Hymettus  no 
such  inscriptions  appeared  ;  but  the  naked  surface  of  the 
limestone  seemed  to  be  so  well  calculated  for  their  preser- 
vation, that  we  felt  a  reluctance  to  return  without  carving 
our  names,  as  indelibly  as  our  time  would  allow,  upon  the 
top  of  the  mountain.  Having  done  this,  we  descended  once 
more  towards  the  Convent,  where  we  arrived  late  in  the 
evening,  and  immediately  proceeded  to  Athens. 

The  following  day  was  attended  by  a  singular  adventure. 
We  had  agreed  to  spend  the  greater  part  of  that  day  with 
Lusieri,  among  the  antiquities  of  the  Citadel ;  and  for  this 
purpose  Mr.  Cripps  accompanied  him  to  the  Acropolis  soon 
after  breakfast.  The  author  followed  towards  noon.  About 
half- way  up  the  steep  which  leads  to  the  Propylcza,  he 
heard  a  noise  of  laughter  and  of  many  clamorous  voices, 

proceeding 


H99l_ 


mm       wKMnHM  BKBSKBBKS 


588 


CHAP.  XIV. 


Singular 
Adventure 
that  befel 
the  Author. 


ATHENS. 

proceeding  from  a  building  situated  in  an  area  upon  the  left 
hand,  which  had  the  appearance  of  being  a  public   bath. 
As  it  is  always  customary  for  strangers  to  mingle  with  the 
Mahometans  in  such  places  without  molestation,  and  as  it 
had  been  the  author's  practice  to  bathe  frequently  for  the 
preservation  of  his  health,   he  advanced  without   further 
consideration  towards  the  entrance,  which  he  found  to  be 
covered    with    a   carpet  hanging   before  it.     Not  a  human 
creature  was  to  be   seen  without  the  bath,  whether  Turk 
or   Greek.      This    was    rather  remarkable;    but   it   seemed 
to   be  explained   in   the  numbers  who  were  heard  talking 
within.      As  the  author  drew  nigh  unto  the  door  of  the 
building,  the  voices  were   heard  rather  in   a  shriller  tone 
than  usual;  but  no   suspicion   entering  into    his   mind,  as 
to  the  sort  of  bathers  which  he  would  find  assembled,  he 
put    aside    the   carpet,   and,    stepping    beneath    the    main 
dome    of    the    bagnio,    suddenly    found    himself    in    the 
midst  of  the  principal  women  of  Athens,   many  of  whom 
were   unveiled    in   every   sense   of   the    term,    and   all    of 
them  in  utter  amazement  at  the  madness  of  the  intrusion. 
The  first  impulse  of  astonishment  entirely  superseded  all 
thought    of    the    danger    of   his    situation :     he    remained 
fixed  and  mute  as  a  statue.    A  general  shriek  soon  brought 
him  to  his  recollection.     Several  black  female   slaves  ran 
towards   him,    interposing    before    his    face   napkins,   and 
driving  him  backwards  towards  the  entrance.     He  endea- 
voured, by  signs  and  broken  sentences,  to  convince  them 
that  he  came  there  to  bathe  in  the  ordinary  way ;  but  this 

awkward 


ATHENS.  589 

awkward  attempt   at  an  apology  converted  their  fears  into    chap.  xiv. 

laughter,  accompanied   by  sounds  of  Hist!  Hist!  and  the 

most  eager  entreaties  to  him  to  abscond  quickly,  and  without 

observation.    As  he  drew  back,  he  distinctly  heard  some  one 

say  in  Italian,  that  if  he  were  seen  he  would  be  shot.     By 

this  time  the  negro  women  were  all  around  him,  covering 

his  eyes  with  their  hands  and  towels,  and  rather  impeding 

his  retreat,  by  pushing  him  blindfolded   towards  the  door ; 

whence  he  fled  with  all  possible  expedition.     As  the  sight 

of  women  in  Turkey  is  rare,  and   always    obtained   with 

difficulty,    the    Reader   may  perhaps  wish  to  know   what 

sort  of  beings  the   author  saw,    during  the  short  interval 

that  his  eyes  were  open  within  the  bagnio;  although  he 

can  only  describe  the   scene    from  a  confused  recollection. 

Upon  the  left  hand,  as  he  entered,  there  was   an  elderly    Description  of 

,  the  Cere- 

female,  who  appeared  to  be  of  considerable  rank,   from  the    monies  of  the 

Women's 

number  of  slaves  sumptuously  clad  and  in  waiting  upon  her.  Bath. 
She  was  reclined,  as  it  is  usual  in  all  Turkish  baths,  upon  a 
sort  of  divan,  or  raised  floor,  surround  ingthe  circular  hall  of 
the  bath,  smoking  and  drinking  coffee.  A  rich  embroidered 
covering  of  green  silk  had  been  spread  over  her.  Her  slaves 
stood  by  her  side  upon  the  marble  pavement  of  the  bath. 
Many  other  women  of  different  ages  were  seated,  or  standing, 
or  lying,  upon  the  same  divan.  Some  appeared  coming  in  high 
wooden  clogs  from  the  sudatories  or  interior  chambers  of  the 
bath,  towards  the  divan  ;  their  long  hair  hanging  dishevelled 
and  straight,  almost  to  the  ground  :  the  temperature  of  those 
cells  had  flushed  their  faces  with  a  warm  glow,  seldom  seen 
upon  the  pale  and  faded  cheeks  of  the  Grecian  and  Turkish 

women. 


•^.--■■9;'       ■—  .'*^*,,^;*,W'.' 


I 


590 


CHAP.  XIV. 


Further  obser- 
vations in  the 
Acropolis. 


A  T  H  E  N  S.  ♦ 

women.  Some  of  them  were  very  handsome.  Within  the 
centre  of  the  area,  immediately  beneath  the  dome,  the  black 
women  and  other  attendants  of  the  bath  were  busied 
heating  towels,  and  preparing  pipes  and  coffee  for  the 
bathers  ;  according  to  the  custom  observed  when  men 
frequent  these  places. 

The  cause  of  this  mistake  remains  now  to  be  explained. 
This  bath  was  not  peculiarly  set  apart  for  the  use  of  females  : 
it  was  frequented  also  by  the  male  inhabitants;  but  at  stated 
hours  the  women  have  the  privilege  of  appropriating  it  to 
their  use  ;  and  this  happened  to  be  their  time  of  bathing ; 
consequently  the  men  were  absent.  Upon  such  occasions, 
the  Greek  and  Turkish  women  bathe  together :  owing  to 
this  circumstance,  the  news  of  the  adventure  was  very 
speedily  circulated  over  all  Athens.  As  we  did  not  return 
until  the  evening,  the  family  with  whom  we  resided,  hearing, 
of  the  affair,  began  to  be  uneasy,  lest  it  had  been  brought 
to  a  serious  termination ;  well  knowing  that  if  any  of  the 
Arnaouts,  or  of  the  Turkish  guard  belonging  to  the  Citadel, 
had  seen  a  man  coming  from  the  bath  while  the  women 
were  there,  they,  without  hesitation  or  ceremony,  would  have 
put  him  instantly  to  death :  and  the  only  reason  we  could 
assign  for  its  never  being  afterwards  noticed,  was,  that 
however  generally  it  became  the  subject  of  conversation 
among  the  Turkish  females  of  the  city,  their  Mahometan 
masters  were  kept  in  ignorance  of  the  transaction. 

We  remained  in  the  Citadel  during  the  rest  of  the  day ; 
not  only  to  avoid  any  probable  consequences  of  this  affair, 
but   also   that  we   might  once  more    leisurely   survey  the 

interesting 


X.Alfai. 


An  ATHENIAN  LAJLiT  in  tke  ID  EEC  5  commonly  wort , 


v/V/.V/W .  .//<//>//  /,/*./  I>v  T.riitMl  k-W.  l>,inW.  Strand  Zmdm. 


^^^^^^^^^^^m    sot 


MMUaIm 


;.4  4ftliji 


A  THEN  S. 


501 


interesting  objects  it  contains  ;  and,  lastly,  have  an  oppor-      chap.xiv. 
tunity  of  seeing,  from  the  Parthenon,  the  sun  setting  behind 
the  Acropolis  of  Corinth  ;  one  of  the   finest   sights  in  all 
Greece. 

It  was  mentioned  in  the  preceding  Chapter,  that  the 
frieze  of  the  Erectheuiti,  and  of  its  porticoes,  consists  of  a 
bluish-grey  limestone,  resembling  slate ;  and  that  the 
tympanum  of  the  pediment  is  likewise  of  the  same  stone; 
but  the  rest  of  the  temple  is  of  marble.  Perhaps  this 
kind  of  limestone  was  introduced  into  those  parts  of  the 
building  intended  to  contain  inscriptions ;  because  the 
letters,  when  cut,  being  of  a  different  colour  from  the 
polished  stone,  would  thereby  be  rendered  the  more 
conspicuous.  A  circumstance  which  renders  this  probable, 
is,  that  inscriptions  are  often  found  upon  this  kind  of 
limestone,  among  the  remains  of  buildings  constructed 
of  marble.  The  author  found  the  following  Inscrip- 
tion this  day,  in  the  Acropolis,  upon  a  blue  slate-like 
limestone  : 

POAYAAOZPOAYAAiAOYPAIANIEYZ 
EIKONATHNAANE0HKEPOAYZTPATOZAYTOYAAEA4>ON 
MNHMOZYNHN0NHTOYXnMaTOZA0ANATON 

The  name  written  in  the  first  line,  Polyllus,  seems  to  have 
been  inscribed  beneath  the  statue  (image)  of  a  person  who 
belonged  to  one  of  the  dfaoi  of  Attica.  YIuimwg  MjfMs,  that 
is  to  say,  Pcsaniensis  populus;  for  in  the  verses  which 
follow,  we  read,  that  "  Poly  stratus  raised  this  representation 
— his  own  brother ;  an  immortal  memorial  of  a  mortal  body." 

If 


G95  EREst  EflGflGB      *w*fc»3K»s*  ^":,'^*;*t*-'*r^-*?B5BHBP' 


592 


CHAP.  XIV. 


ATHENS. 

If  the  statue  were  of  white  marble,  the  blue  limestone 
placed' below  it  may  have  been  selected  as  better  adapted 
for  the  purpose  of  adding  the  inscription. 

We  also  copied  an  Inscription  of  the  Roman  times, 
relating  to  "  Pammenes  the  son  of  Zeno  of  Marathon"  who 
is  mentioned  as  Priest;  but  it  is  in  a  very  imperfect  state  : 


M020EMEftMII:KAI2 miKAI2API2TPA TNT02  .  .  HIT 

TA2nAMMENOT2TOTXHNnNO2MAPA0nNIOTIEPE£220EA2 

MH2KAI2EBA2TOT2flTHPO2EPAKPOnOAEIEniIEPEIA2A0H 
POAIAAO2MEri2TH2TH2A2KAHniAAOrAAAIEfl20rrAT  .  . 


L^: 


Afterwards,  Lusieri  shewed  to  us  an  inscribed  marble  which 
he  had  been  ordered  to  send  to  England  with  the  spoils  of 
the  Parthenon ;  but  as  the  author  does  not  know  whether  it 
met  with  the  fate  of  a  large  portion  of  the  sculpture  in 
Cerigo  Bay,  or  ultimately  reached  its  destination,  he  will 
subjoin  the  copy  he  made  of  this  Inscription  upon  the  spot, 
because  it  is  one  of  the  most  antient  that  have  been  found 
in  Greece.  It  is  written  in  what  are  called  Cadmcean 
letters  ;  recording  the  names  of  certain  Athenians  and  their 
tribes.  The  double  vowels  were  not  in  general  use  before 
the  Archonship  of  Euclid  in  the  ninety-fourth  Olym- 
piad. Instead  of  E  we  have  here  X  £  as  in  TIMOX£ENO£. 
The  forms  also  of  the  Gamma,  Lambda,  and  Sigma,  are  most 
antient;  they  are  thus  written  N,  U,  and  £.  The  H  is 
used  for  the  aspirate,  asinHlPO0ONTIAO£.  In  other 
respects,  as  it  is  merely  a  list  of  names,  this  is  all  which 
may  be  here  requisite  for  its  illustration. 


ATHENS. 


593 


EPI   .    .   PEYS 

PAYS  AAEEI 

<M  H  P  P  I  AE£ 

KEKPOPI AOS 

UYNOM  EAEY 

OEOAOPOS 

UYKI   .   O   . 

ANA  .   I   .   IOS 

AENEKUES 

<1>PYNI  KOS 

HIPO0ONTIAOS 

OEOTIMOS 

^KYPOKl/EC 

XAPI  AS 

EYAhhElO^ 

Nl  KOSTPATOS 

0PASYM  AXOS 

<I>  ANI  AS 

KAUH  Kl  ES 

EXEO  P I AAES 

Al  ANTI  AOS 

KPATI  NOS 

ANTIOXI  AOS 

A  PUTOM  EAE£ 

AM  EINOKTES 

AISXINES 

P ANTAKU  ES 

XAPIAEMOS 

Tl MOXSENOS 

ANTI<t>AN  ES 

EM  P  OTEI  AAI  AS 

PANTAKl^ES 

AhNOAEM  OS 

APXI AS 

E  N  A  M  <J>  (  P  O  U  E  I 

<MUO<!>  PON 

EP I0PAI KES 

EYKPATES 

EMPYUOIS 

Eh IAS 

ENS  EPMYHAI 

POI/YMN  ESTOS 

ESSIAAOI 

P AYSIAS ISS 

A  .  S   . 

VOL.  III. 


.   .    .    .    STP  . 

TF  .  .  AN  .  .  . 
Eh  .  .  BA  .  .  . 
It  ES 

ON 

Eh 
XAE 

AEMOSTPAT 
KEh    .  OPI  AEI 
UYKEN   .  .  .   . 
Tl  MOS  .  .  I  .   .   hE 
SOIhlYTI   .  . 
UEOKA   .... 

AIAI   .... 
AUAYKh. . . 
OPAS  ON 
ANTI<I>0 
ANTIO* 
El   .   ITEAIA 
EY0Y  .   .  AXO 
N  I  KIP  PO 


N   .    E  .  .  . 

A  .    S    •  •  • 
SOXSOIAU 

AY  PI  K 

AEXMOS 
MN  EAOPAS 
nEPI      CPIAES 
HEI     <MAOS 
ON  ES  I  MOS 
H IE  .   .   .   E 
ANA  .   .   . 
X£  EN<M 
A0EN      APIS 
EY<l>PAIOS 
XAIPYS     N 
nos  E  .  .  .  TOS 
M  ENO  .  .  . 
STPATO 


CHAP.  XIV. 


4   G 


The 


Kty\t 


«r  ^H  r**?*^    '"fflf., 


594  ATHENS. 

The  other  Inscriptions  which  we  collected  here,  and  in 
the  lower  city,  have  been  already  published.  Some  of  them 
are  in  Gruter;  others  may  be  seen  either  in  Spon  or  in 
Chandler1;  with  the  exception  of  one  which  we  afterwards 
found  in  a  school-room,  near  the  celebrated  Temple  of  the 
Winds.  It  was  inscribed  upon  a  marble  bas-relief,  repre- 
senting a  female  figure  seated,  holding  by  the  hand  an  old 
man  who  is  standing  before  her.  As  this  brief  inscription 
will  be  the  last  we  shall  notice  in  Athens,  it  may  be  here 
introduced  as  a  companion  of  those  already  given  in  this 
Chapter.  The  Header  is  referred  to  Suidas  and  Harpocration 
for  an  illustration  of  the  word  Alyi\iev$.  ^Egilia  was  one 
of  the  Attic  tiijfAot,  and  belonged  to  the  tribe  Antiochis. 

PANKMAOZMEIHAAOYAPXIPPH 

AITIAIEYIMEIEIAAOY 

Additional  re-       The  sun  was  now  setting,  and  we  repaired  to  the  Parthenon. 

remarks  upon 

theParthenon.  This  building  in  its  entire  state,  either  as  a  Heathen  temple, 
or  as  a  Christian  sanctuary,  was  lighted  only  by  means  of 
lamps :  it  had  no  windows ;  but  the  darkness  of  the 
interior   was  calculated    to   aid    the  Pagan    ceremonies   bv 

on? 


(l)  The  celebrated  Marmor  Atheniense  has  been,  however,  inaccurately  edited  ly 
the  last  of  these  authors.  It  was  lately  found  in  a  neglected  state  in  the  British 
Museum  ;  and  has  since  exercised  the  erudition  and  critical  acumen  of  that  accon- 
plished  scholar,  and  learned  antiquary,  Richard  Payne  Knight,  Esq.  As  this  marbe 
was  originally  removed  from  the  Acropolis,  it  may  be  proper  here  to  add,  that  t 
preserves  a  record  of  a  very  interesting  nature  ;  nothing  less  than  the  name  of  tie 
architect  who  built  the  Erectheum ;  namely,  Philocles  of  Acharnje.  This  part  <f 
the  Inscription  was  recovered  by  W.  Wilkins,  Esq.  who  communicated  the  circumstanc 
to  the  author. 


2--^ 


ATHENS. 


595 


one  of  the  most  powerful  agents  of  superstition.  The  chap.  xiv. 
priests  at  Jerusalem  have  profited  by  a  similar  mode  of 
construction  for  their  pretended  miracle  of  the  "  holy  fire" 
at  the  Tomb  of  the  Messiah ;  and  the  remains  of  man}'  antient 
crypts  and  buildings  in  Egypt  and  in  Greece  seem  to 
prove  that  the  earliest  places  of  idolatrous  worship  were  all 
calculated  to  obstruct  rather  than  to  admit  the  light.  Even 
in  its  present  dilapidated  state,  the  Parthenon  still  retains 
something  of  its  original  gloomy  character :  it  is  this  which 
gives  such  a  striking  effect  to  the  appearance  of  the  distant 
scenery,  as  it  is  beheld  through  the  portal  by  a  spectator 
from  within,  who  approaches  the  western  entrance.  The 
Acropolis  of  Corinth  is  so  conspicuous  from  within  the  nave, 
that  the  portal  of  the  temple  seems  to  have  been  contrived 
for  the  express  purpose  of  guiding  the  eye  of  the  spectator 
precisely  to  that  point  of  view.  Perhaps  there  was  another 
temple,  with  a  corresponding  scope  of  observation,  within 
the  Corinthian  Citadel.  Something  of  this  nature  may 
be  observed  in  the  construction  of  old  Roman-Catholic 
churches,  where  there  are  crevices  calculated  for  the  purpose 
of  guiding  the  eye,  through  the  darkness  of  the  night, 
towards  other  sanctuaries  remotely  situated ;  whether  for 
any  purpose  of  religious  intercourse,  by  means  of  lights 
conveying  signs  to  distant  priests  of  the  celebration  of 
particular  solemnities,  or  as  beacons  for  national  signals,  it 
is  not  pretended  to  determine.  As  evening  drew  on,  the 
lengthening  shadows  began  to  blend  all  the  lesser  tints,  and 

Mountains  of 

to  give  breadth  and  a  bolder  outline  to  the  vast  objects  in     Peloponnesus. 
the   glorious    prospect  seen   from    this   building ;    so  as  to 

exhibit 


Effect  of 
Sun-set 
behind  the 


596 


CHAP.XIV. 


ATHENS. 

exhibit  them  in  distinct  masses :  the  surface  of  the  Sinus 
Saronicus,  completely  land-locked,  resembled  that  of  a 
shining  lake,  surrounded  by  mountains  of  majestic  form, 
and  illustrious  in  the  most  affecting  recollections.  There 
is  not  one  of  those  mountains  but  may  be  described  in  the 
language  of  our  classic  bard  as  "  breathing  inspiration." 
Every  portion  of  territory  comprehended  in  the  general 
survey  has  been  rendered  memorable  as  the  scene  of  some 
conspicuous  event  in  Grecian  story;  either  as  the  land  of 
genius,  or  the  field  of  heroism  ;  as  honoured  by  the  poet's 
cradle,  or  by  the  patriot's  grave ;  as  exciting  the  remem- 
brance of  all  by  which  human-nature  has  been  adorned 
and  dignified  ;  or  as  proclaiming  the  awful  mandate  which 
ordains  that  not  only  talents  and  virtue,  but  also  states  and 
empires,  and  even  the  earth  itself,  shall  pass  away.  The 
declining  sun,  casting  its  last  rays  upon  the  distant  summits 
of  Peloponnesus,  and  tinging  with  parting  glory  the  moun- 
tains of  Argolis  and  Achaia,  gave  a  grand  but  mournful 
solemnity  both  to  the  natural  and  the  moral  prospect.  It 
soon  disappeared.  Emblematical  of  the  intellectual  darkness 
now  covering  these  once  enlightened  regions,  night  came 
on,  shrouding  every  feature  of  the  landscape  with  her  dusky 
veil. 


.  .  ■   . 


.  XV. 


PELOPONNESUS. 

Departure  from.  Athens  for  the  Peloponnesus — Extraordinary  talents  of 
a  Calmuck  Artist — Further  account  of  the  Piraeeus —  the  "long 
walls" — Tomb  of  Themistocles  —  its  situation  —  remains  of  this 
monument — Objects  visible  in  passing  the  Gulph — ^Egina — Temple 
of  Jupiter  Panhellenius — Antiquities  near  to  the  port — Anchestri 
Isle — Ignorance  of  the  Pilot — Epiada — Greek  Medals — Arbutus 
Andrachnc — Appearance  of  the  Country  —  Ligurio — Conak,  or 
inn — Coroni — Cathedra  of  a  Greek  Theatre — Hieron — Mountains 
— Temple  o/*,/Esculapius — Stadium — Architectural  Terra-cottas — 
Temple  of  the  Coryphsean  Diana — Temple  of  Apollo — Circular 
edifice — Theatre  o/"Polycletus — Epidaurian  serpent — Aspect  of  the 
Coilon  —  Perfect  state  of  the  structure  —  dimensions  and  detail 
of  the  parts — Journey  to  Nauplia — Lessa — Dorian  and  Egyptian 
antiquities — Arachnaeus  Mons — Cyclopea — Nauplia — House  of  the 

Consul — 


^■1 


598 


DEPARTURE  FROM  ATHENS. 


CHAP.  XV. 


Dej>arture 
from  Athens 
for  the 
Peloponnesus. 


Consul — Turkish  Gazette — Public  rejoicings — Athletse — Pyrrhica 
— Population —  Mr — Commerce — Gipsies  —  Characteristic  features 
of  Grecian  cities — Tiryns —  Celtic  and  Phoenician  architecture  — 
Origin  of  the  Cyclopean  style — History  of  Tiryns — character  of 
its  inhabitants. 

kJn  Thursday,  November  the  fifth,  we  left  Athens  at 
sun-rise,  for  the  Pirceens ;  having  resolved  to  sail  to  Epi- 
daurus ;  and  after  visiting  Epidauria  and  Argolis,  to  return 
through  the  northern  districts  of  Peloponnesus,  towards 
Megara  and  Eleusis.  The  Governor  of  Athens  had  kindly 
commissioned  a  relation  of  his  family,  a  most  amiable 
and  worthy  Turk,  to  accompany  us  in  the  capacity  of 
Tchohadar;  a  word  which  we  shall  not  attempt  to  translate  : 
it  is  enough  to  say  that  such  was  his  title,  and  that  he 
travelled  with  us  as  an  officer  who  was  to  provide  for  us, 
upon  all  occasions,  and  to  be  responsible,  by  his  authority, 
for  our  safety  among  the  Albanians.  Our  caique  had 
remained  at  anchor  since  our  arrival :  the  men  belonging 
to  her  had  been  daily  employed  in  repairing  the  sails  and 
rigging.  Lusieri  offered  to  accompany  us  as  far  as  ^Egina; 
having  long  wished  for  an  opportunity  of  seeing  that 
island :  although  rich  in  valuable  antiquities,  it  had  been 
strangely  overlooked  by  almost  every  traveller,  excepting 
Chandler.  As  he  expected  ample  employment  for  his 
pencil,  he  was  desirous  of  being  also  attended  by  one 
Extraordinary  of  the  most  extraordinary  characters  that  has  been  added 
to  the  list  of  celebrated  artists  since  the  days  of  Phidias. 
This   person    was   by   birth   a    Calmuch,    of  the   name   of 

Theodore ; 


Artist. 


■ 


IBH9IBHGBB  IB  *V«  IBBBBBBBIDBBHB      HOBBL— 


- 


DEPARTURE  FROM  ATHENS. 


599 


Theodore ;  he  had  distinguished  himself  among  the  painters 
at  Rome,  and  had  been  brought  to  Athens  to  join  the  band 
of  artists  employed  by  our  Ambassador,  over  which  Lusieri 
presided.      With   the   most   decided    physiognomy  of   the 
wildest   of  his  native  tribes,   although  as  much  humanized 
in  his  appearance  as  it  was  possible  to  make  him  by  the 
aid  of  European  dress  and  habits,  he  still  retained  some  of 
the  original  characteristics  of  his  countrymen ;  and,  among 
others,    a   true    Scythian    relish   for   spirituous    liquor :    by 
the  judicious  administration  of  brandy,  Lusieri  could  elicit 
from  him,  for  the  use  of  his  patron,  specimens  of  his  art, 
combining  the  most  astonishing  genius  with  the  strictest 
accuracy  and  the  most  exquisite  taste.      Theodore  presented 
a  marvellous  example  of  the  force  of  natural  genius  unsub- 
dued by  the  most  powerful  obstacles.     Educated  in  slavery ; 
trained    to    the    business    of  his    profession   beneath    the 
active  cudgels  of  his  Russian  masters ;  having  also  imbibed 
with  his  earliest  impressions    the  servile  propensities  and 
sensual  appetites  of  the  tyrants  he  had  been  taught  to  revere; 
this    extraordinary   man    arrived   in   Athens    like    another 
Euphranor,  rivalling  all  that  the  Fine  Arts  had   produced 
under  circumstances  the  most  favourable  to  their  birth  and 
maturity.      The  talents  of  Theodore,  as  a  painter,  were  not 
confined,  as  commonly  is  the  case  among  Russian  artists,  to 
mere  works   of  imitation  :   although  he  could  copy  every 
thing,  he  could  invent  also  ;  and  his  mind  partook  largely  of 
the  superior  powers  of  original   genius.     With   the   most 
surprising  ability,  he  restored  and  inserted  into  his  drawings 

all 


CHAP.  XV. 


jWWP«i 


600 


CHAP.  XV. 


Further  Ac- 
count of  the 
Piraeus — the 
"long  walls." 


THE     PIRAEUS. 

all  the  sculpture  of  which  parts  only  remained  in  the 
mutilated  bas-reliefs  and  buildings  of  the  Acropolis.  Besides 
this,  he  delineated,  in  a  style  of  superior  excellence,  the  same 
sculptures  according  to  the  precise  state  of  decay  in  which 
they  at  present  exist1. 

There  are  many  Ruins  about  the  three  ports,  Munychia, 
Phalerum,  and  the  Pirceeus ;  and  we  may  look  to  future 
excavations  in  their  vicinity  as  likely  to  bring  to  light  many 
valuable  antiquities.  The  remains  of  the  long  walls  which 
joined  the  Pirceeus  to  Athens,  (making  of  it  a  burgh 
similar  to  what  Leith  is  with  respect  to  Edinburgh2,) 
although  very  indistinct,  yet  may  be  traced  sufficiently 
to  ascertain  the  space  they  formerly  included.  These 
walls  appear  to  have  had  different  names  (distinguishing 
them  from  the  town  walls  of  Pirceeus)  among  the 
Greeks  and  Romans.  By  the  former  they  were  termed 
either  Ma^«  rsi^tj,  the  long  walls,  or  M«^a  <mA?j,  literally 
answering  to  a  nick-name  bestowed  upon  one  of  our 
kings  of  England,  who  was  called  Long-shanks.  We 
find  them  alluded  to  under  this  appellation  by  Diodorus 
Siculus ;  as  a  term  whereby  they  are  distinguished  from  the 
Pirceean  walls*.  The  Romans  adopted  a  different  appellation  : 

by 

(1)  See  Memorandum  on  the  Earl  of  Elgin's  Pursuits  in  Greece,  p.  5.    Lond.  1811. 

(2)  Edinburgh  exhibits  a  very  correct  model  of  a  Grecian  city  :  and  with  its  Acro- 
polis, Town,  and  Harbour,  it  bears  some  resemblance  to  Athens  and  the  Piraeus. 

(3)  IvvtdBvro  t>)v  eipifyrfv,  Xvts  TA  MAKPA  2KEAH,  teal  TA  TEIXH  TOT 
ITEIPAIEns,  irepteXetv.  Diod.  Sic.  lib.  xiii.  ap.  Meurs.  Pir.  Vid.  Gronov.  Thesaur. 
Gr.  torn.  V.  p.  1932.    L.  Bat.  1699. 


THE    PIRAEUS.  601 

by  them  the  "long-shanks"  were  called  the  "arms"  or  chap. xv. 
"  long  arms."  They  are  thus  mentioned  by  Livy\  and  by 
Propertiiis'.  A  corrupt  mode  of  writing  the  word  Pirceeus 
seems  to  have  been  adopted  by  some  authors,  who  express 
Ilsigottsvs  by  Pirams.  Meursius,  upon  the  testimony  of  all 
the  early  Greek  authorities,  is  decisive  for  the  former 
reading6.  In  his  admirable  treatise  upon  this  harbour  and 
its  antiquities,  he  has  concentrated  with  wonderful  erudi- 
tion every  thing  that  the  Antients  have  left  concerning 
its  history.  In  its  original  state  it  had  been  an  island, 
whence  it  received  its  name7,  like  many  later  towns \ 
from  its  ferry9.  Travellers  have  pretended  to  recognise 
the  tomb   of  Themistocles.     A  square  stone   resting  on  a     Tomb  of 

i       ,  i      i         •  /-  ,,  Themistocles- 

simple  base,  and  destitute  of  any  ornament,  was  all  that 
denoted  the  place  of  his  interment.  It  was  near  to  the 
principal  harbour10,  of  course  that  of  Pirceeus11,  containing 

three 


(4)  "  Inter  angustias  semiruti  muri,  qui  duobus  brachiis  Piraeeum  Athenis  jungit." 
Livius,  lib.  xxxv.  ap.  Meurs.  Pir.  ut  supra. 

(5)  "  Inch:  ubi  Piraei  capient  me  littora  portus, 

Scandam  ego  Theseae  brachia  longa  via?." 

Propertius,  lib.  iii.  Eleg.  20.  ap.  Meurs.  ut  supra. 

(6)  Meursii  Piraeeus,  passim.     Sic  Suidas,  Stephanus,  Hesychius,  &c.  &c. 

(7)  ToV  tc  Wtipaia,  vr\aid'CovTa  Trporepov,  ical  vipav  r?/c  'Acn/c  Ktipievov,  ovruc 
■ipatrlv  oyo/nacrdtji'at.    Strabon.  Geog.  lib.i.  p.  86.     Oxon.  1807 . 

(8)  Trajectum  ad  Mosarn,  Maestricht  in  Brabant ;  Trajectum  ad  Rkenum,  Utrecht, 
Trajectum  ad  Mcenum,  Francfort  upon  Mcene ;  Trajectum  ad  Oderam,  Francfort 
upon  the  Oder. 

(9)  rHv  Trpdrepor  6  Hi:ipatcv<;  vtjaoc'  odev  Kai  rovvof.ia  Et\t)6cv,  viro  rt)v  hunrepdv. 
'*  Primitus  insula  erat  Piraeeus  :   unde  et  nomen  accepit,  a  trajectu."     Suidas. 

(10)  Kou  Trpdr  tu  pieyifTTu  Xtfitvi  rdtyor  QcfxidTOKklovi;.  Pausan.  Attic,  p.  3. 
Lips.  1696. 

(11)  "  Piraeus,  qui  et  ipse,  magnitudine,  ac  commoditate,  primus."  Meurs.  Pir.ap. 
Gronov.  Thesaur.  Gr.  tom.V.   p.  1931.     L.  Bat.  1699. 

VOL.  III.  4  H 


602 


THE    PIRAEUS. 


CHAP.  XV. 


Situation  of 
the  Tomb  of 


three  smaller  ports,  as  docks1:  for  the  port  of  Phalerum, 
within  the  road  of  that  name,  was  very  small2.  Its 
situation  seems  to  be  so  clearly  designated  by  a  passage 
rhemistocics.  -m  piutarch,  at  the  end  of  his  life  of  Themistocles3,  that  it 
would  seem  almost  impossible  to  mistake  the  spot.  It  was 
situated  at  the  promontory  of  Alcimus,  where  the  land, 
making  an  elbow,  sheltered  a  part  of  the  harbour ;  here,  above 
the  still  water,  might  be  seen  the  tomb.  The  base,  although 
simple,  as  stated  by  Pausanias,  is  by  Plutarch  said  to  have 
been  of  no  inconsiderable  magnitude4;  and  the  tomb  itself, 
that  is  to  say,  the  Soros,  resembled  an  altar  placed  thereon. 
Guided  by  this  clue,  we  felt  almost  a  conviction  that  we  had 
discovered  all  that  now  remains  of  this  monument.     The 

promontory 


(1)  It  contained  three  vpfiot,  or  docks ;  the  first  called  lidvdapos,  from  a  hero  of 
that  name ;  the  second  "Atypociaiov,  from  'Afpociri),  or  Venus,  who  had  these  two 
temples;  the  third  Zt'u,  from  bread  corn,  which  was  called  by  the  Grecians  fad. 
(Poller's  Arch.  vol.  I.  p. 43.  Lond.  1751.)  Scylax  mentions  its  three  ports:  X)  ct 
Htipatcv<;\ifAiyas  E^ei  rpih.     (Scylacis  Caryandensis  Periplus,  p.  47.    L.  Bat.  l6g~.) 

"  On  the  twenty- fourth  of  June  we  anchored  in  the  convenient  little  harbour  of 
the  Piraeus,  where  the  chief  objects  that  call  for  one's  attention  are,  the  remains 
of  the  solid  fortifications  of  Themistocles ;  the  remains  of  the  moles  forming  the  smaller 
ports  within  the  Pirjeeus  ;  two  monuments  on  the  sea-shore  ;  and  palpable  vestiges  of 
the  long  walls  which  connected  the  harbour  with  Athens,  a  distance  of  about  four 
miles  and  a  half."     Colonel  Squires  MS.  Correspondence. 

(2)  "  Cum  Phalero  portu,  neque  magno,  neque  bono,  Athenienses  uterentur,  hujus 
consilio  triplex  Piraeei  portus  constitutus  est."  Cornelius  Nepos  in  Themistocle,  ap. 
Gronov.  Thesaur.  Gr .  tom.V.  p.  1934.      L.  Bat.  16QQ. 

(3)  TIcpl  rrjv  Xtfxcva  rov  Xlsipatuc,  diro  rov  icard  ti)v  "AXiciftov  dk-pu-yjotov,  TrpoKeiTui 
r<<;  oivv  dyKuv.  ical  Ka/J.\pavTi  tovtov  ivrd<;,  ))  to  vrrovliov  r»;c  OaXdrrrjs,  tcpnrrU;   tariv 
evfieyedrjt,  kuI  to   Trtpl  avTy)v   fiufioEicer,  Tatyoi    tov   (dtptcTTonKtow;.       Plutarch,    in 
extremo Themist.  torn.  I.    Lond.  1/29. 
(4"l    \Li)[j.tyi6Tfc, 


— -J-  '-""■•'  ■•■"'■ 


THE     riR.EEUS. 


6'03 


Remains  of 
this  Monu- 
ment. 


promontory  alluded  to  by  Plutarch  constitutes  the  southern 
side  of  the  entrance  to  the  harbour5 :  jutting  out  from 
the  Pircecan  or  Munychian  peninsula,  it  forms,  with  the 
opposite  promontory  of  Eetion,  the  natural  mouth  of  the 
port,  lying  towards  the  west,  that  is  to  say,  beyond  the 
artificial  piers  whereby  it  was  inwardly  closed6.  Here  we 
landed  ;  and  found  precisely  the  sort  of  base  alluded  to  by 
the  historian ;  partly  cut  in  the  natural  rock,  and  partly  an 
artificial  structure ;  so  that  a  person  ascended  to  the  Soros, 
as  by  steps,  from  the  shore  of  the  sea.  Our  position  of 
the  tomb  may  be  liable  to  dispute :  the  Reader,  having 
the  facts  stated,  will  determine  for  himself.  Of  the  Soros 
not  a  trace  is  now  remaining. 

As  we  sailed  from  the  Pirceeus,  we  soon  perceived  the     objects  risible 

in  passing 

Acropolis  of  Corinth,  and,  behind  it,  high  mountains  which  the<3uiPh. 
were  much  covered  by  clouds,  although  the  day  was 
remarkably  fine.  We  lost  some  time  in  the  harbour,  and 
were  afterwards  detained  by  calms.  About  three  o'clock, 
p.  m.  we  passed  a  small  island,  called  Bclbina  by  D'Anvitte7. 
About  an  hour  before,  we  had  observed  the  thermometer, 
in  the  middle  of  the  gulph  :    the  mercury  then  stood  at  6s° 

of 


Belbimt. 


(5)  Voy.  Barthel.  "  Plan  des  Environs  d'Athenes  pour  le  Voyage  da  Jeune  Ana- 
fharsis."  Troisieme  edit,     a  Paris,  1790. 

(6)  "  Ut  non  tan  turn  arte  tutus,  sed  natura  etiam  esset."  Meursii  Pirceeus,  ap. 
Gronov.  Thes.  Gr.  tom.V.  p.  1935.    L.  Bat.  1699. 

(/)  Its  modern  name  is  Lavousa,  according  to  D'Anviile's  Chart  of  the  Archi- 
pelago. Chandler  considers  the  Island  of  Bellina  as  lying  towards  the  mouth  of  the 
Galph.     See  Trav.  in  Greece,  p.  11.    Oxf.  177*3. 


KB!  s^»  ^^B 


■■■i  m 


^^M 


CHAP.  XV. 


604  VOYAGE   TO  .EGINA. 

of  Fahrenheit.  A  mountain  of  very  great  elevation  was 
now  visible  behind  the  lofty  rock  of  the  Corinthian  Citadel, 
and  at  a  great  distance.  Lusieri  insisted  upon  its  being 
Parnassus ;  and  Theodore  was  of  the  same  opinion.  Judging 
from  our  position,  it  could  not  have  been  one  of  the 
mountains  of  Peloponnesus  ;  and  therefore,  supposing  it  to 
have  been  situated  either  in  JEtolia  or  Phocis,  the  circum- 
stance alone  is  sufficient  to  shew  how  little  agreement  our 
best  maps  have  with  actual  observations,  as  to  the  relative 
position  of  places  in  Greece.  De  Elsie1  is  perhaps,  in  this 
respect,  more  disposed  to  confirm  what  is  here  written,  than 
D'Anville :  yet  in  neither  of  their  maps  of  the  country 
would  a  line  drawn  from  the  island  we  have  mentioned 
through  the  Aero- Cor  inthus ,  reach  the  mountainous  terri- 
tories to  the  north  of  the  Gulph  of  Corinth.  Such  a  line, 
traced  upon  D'Anville  s  Map  of  Greece2,  would  traverse 
the  Sinus  Corinthiacus ,  far  to  the  south  of  all  Phocis 
and  the  land  of  the  Locri  Ozolce ;  and  would  only  enter 
JEtolia,  near  the  mouths  of  the  Evenus  and  Acheloiis  rivers. 
D'Anville  s  Chart  of  the  Archipelago3  is  liable  to  the  same 
remarks;  we  dare  not  call  them  objections,  until  they 
have  been  confirmed  by  other  travellers.  About  five, 
Angina.  P.  m.  we  were  close  in  with  ./Egina  :  and  as  we  drew  near 
to  the  island,  we  had  a  fine  view  of  the  magnificent  remains 

of 


(!)  Graeciae  Antiquae  Tabula  Nova.     Paris,  Oct.  1707. 

(2)  Published  at  Paris  in  1762. 

(3)  Dated,  Paris,  Oct.  1756. 


E&£iraa5g62&a^*^(5$3i£m9 


VOYAGE   TO   ^EGINA. 


605 


of  the  Temple  of  Jupiter  Panhettenius ;  its  numerous  Doric  ^chap.  xv.^ 
columns  standing  in  a  most  conspicuous  situation  upon  the  j*m^pan 
mountain  Panhellenius,  high  above  the  north-eastern  shore  heUenius- 
of  the  island,  and  rising  among  trees,  as  if  surrounded 
by  woods.  This  is  the  most  antient  and  the  most 
remarkable  Ruin  of  all  the  temples  in  Greece :  the  inhabi- 
tants of  /Egina,  in  a  very  remote  age,  maintained  that 
it  was  built  by  Macus.  Chandler  had  given  so  copious 
a  description  of  JEgina,  and  of  this  temple,  that  to  begin 
the  examination  of  the  island  again,  without  being  able  to 
make  any  excavations,  we  considered  as  likely  to  be 
attended  with  little  addition  to  our  stock  of  information; 
and  almost  as  an  encroachment  upon  ground  already 
well  occupied.  We  therefore  resolved  to  continue 
our  voyage  as  soon  as  we  had  landed  Lusieri  and  the 
Calmuck4.     Sailing  round  the  north-western  point  of  the 

island, 


(4)  We  had  good  reason  afterwards  to  repent  of  our  folly  in  making  this  resolution; 
for  although  Chandler  spent  some  time  upon  the  island,  it  has,  in  fact,  been  little 
visited  by  travellers.  Lusieri  found  here  both  medals  and  vases  in  such  great  number, 
that  he  was  under  the  necessity  of  dismissing  the  peasants  who  had  amassed  them, 
without  purchasing  more  than  half  that  were  brought  to  him  ;  although  they  were 
offered  for  a  very  trifling  consideration.  The  medals  and  the  vases  which  he  collected 
were  of  very  high  intiquity.  The  medals  were  either  in  silver  or  lead;  and  of  that 
rude  globular  form,  with  the  lortoise  on  one  side,  and  a  mere  indentation  on  the  other, 
which  is  well  known  to  characterize  the  earliest  Grecian  coinage  ;  indeed,  the  art  itself  of 
coining  money  was  first  introduced  by  the  inhabitants  of  this  island.  Of  the  terra-cotta 
vases  which  he  collected,  we  afterwards  saw  several  in  his  possession  :  they  were  small, 
but  of  the  most  beautiful  workmanship  3  and  as  a  proof  of  their  great  antiquity,  it  is 
necessary  only  to  mention  mat  the  subjects  represented  upon  them  were  historical,  and 
the  figures  black  upon  a  red  ground.  We  have  since  recommended  it  to  persons  visiting, 
Greece,  to  be  ddigent  in  their  researches  upon  iEgina;  and  many  valuable  antiquities 
have  been  consequently  discovered  upon  the  island. 


w^m" 


6'06 


CHAP.  XV. 


Antiquities 
near  to  th« 
port. 


M  G  I  N  A. 

island,  we  observed  a  very  large  barrow,  upon  the  shore ; 
this  is  noticed  by  Chandler1  as  the  mound  of  earth  (^(aa) 
raised  by  Telamon  after  the  death  of  Phocus,  as  it  was  seen 
by  Pausanias  in  the  second  century2.  Mear  to  this  mound 
there  was  a  theatre,  next  in  size  and  workmanship  to  that 
of  the  Hieron  in  Epidauria,  built  by  Polycletus  :  and  it  had 
this  remarkable  feature,  that  it  was  constructed  upon  the 
sloping  side  of  a  stadium  which  was  placed  behind  it ;  so 
that  the  two  structures  mutually  sustained  each  other3. 
Afterwards,  entering  the  harbour,  we  landed  to  view  the 
two  Doric  pillars  yet  standing  by  the  sea  side  ;  these  may 
be  the  remains  of  the  Temple  of  Venus,  which  stood  near  the 
port  principally  frequented4 :  and  JEgina,  even  for  small 
vessels,  is  elsewhere  difficult  of  access,  owing  to  its  high 
cliffs  and  latent  rocks*.  We  saw  none  of  the  inhabitants; 
but  sent  the  Tchohadar  in  search  of  a  pilot  to  conduct  our 
caique  into  the  port  of  Epidauria.     He  returned  with  a  man 

who 


(1)  Travels  in  Greece,  p.  15.     Oxford,  177  6- 

(2)  OvToir  ej  rov  KpvirTOv  Ka.Xovp.Evov  Xtpiva  l(nr\svaa>;  vvKTup,  ettoIei  yujza.  ica- 
tovto  f.itv  c'tepyaadev,  rat  re  vfiuc  etc  pivEi.  (Pausan.  Corinth,  c.  2Q.  p.  J  8C 
Lips.  1696.)  In  a  preceding  passage  of  the  same  chapter  it  is  stated,  that  the  tomt 
(Tu'<j)Oi)  of  Phocus,  which  is  also  called  ^w/ia,  was  near  to  the  /Eaceum  :  Tlupd  Se  ri 
Aidxttov,  <l>b)icov  tU(J>oc  \u>pa  carl,  k.  t.  X.  The  JEaceum  was  a  tetragonal  peribolus  o: 
white  marble,  in  a  conspicuous  part  of  the  city:  Ev  inityu.vzaTa.To  11  ->/c  ttoXeox:,  n 
A.idKstov  KaXvvpEvov,  TTEpifioXos  TZTpdyvvoc  Xevkov  Xidov. 

(3)  Vid.  Pausan.  Corinth,  c.  29.  p.  180.    Lips.  1696. 

(4)  JlXtjviov  Ze  rov  Xijlievoc,  iv  u  paXiara  6pp.i£ovrai,  NA02  E2TIN  A<I>PO- 
AITH2.     Pausan.  Corinth,  c.  29.  p.  1/9.     Lips.  1696. 

(5)  WpornrXtvvai  Cz  AITINA  iuTi  vijauv  ruv  KXXtjviZuyv  dnupMrarii.  rnrpai  Tt  ydf 
vfaXoiwEpl  TTd<jav,Kal  yoipdcE<;  dvEOTriKaai.  Pausan.  Corinth,  c.  29.  p.  1 7^-  Lips.\6()6 


ISLAND  OF  ANCHESTHI. 


60/ 


CHAP.  XV. 


Ignorance  of 
the  Pilot. 


who  pretended  to  have  a  perfect  knowledge  of  the  coast, 
and  we  took  him  on  board  ;  leaving  the  two  artists,  both  of 
whom  were  already  busied  in  drawing. 

As  we  drew  near  to  Peloponnesus,  the  mountains  of 
Argolis  began  to  appear  in  great  grandeur.  We  passed  along 
the  northern  shore  of  an  island  called  by  our  mariners  Anckesmuu. 
Anchestri :  it  was  covered  with  trees6.  As  the  evening 
drew  on,  we  discovered  that  our  stupid  pilot,  notwithstand- 
ing all  his  boasting,  knew  no  more  of  the  coast  than  the 
Casiot  sailors.  As  soon  as  fogs  or  darkness  begin  to  obscure 
the  land,  the  Greek  pilots  remain  in  total  ignorance  of  their 
situation  :  generally,  losing  their  presence  of  mind,  they  either 
run  their  ships  ashore,  or  abandon  the  helm  altogether  and 
have  recourse  to  the  picture  of  some  Saint,  supplicating  his 
miraculous  interference  for  their  safety.  It  more  than  once 
happened  to  us,  to  have  the  responsibility  of  guiding  the 
vessel  without  mariner's  compass,  chart,  or  the  slightest 
knowledge  of  naval  affairs.  It  may  be  supposed  that  under 
such  circumstances  an  infant  would  have  been  found  equally 
fit  for  the  undertaking.  This  was  pretty  much  the  case  upon 
the  present  occasion :  we  were  close  in  with  a  lee-shore : 
fortunately,  the  weather  was  almost  calm ;  and  our  interpreter 
Antonio,   by   much  the  best  seaman    of  a    bad   crew,    had 

stationed 


(6)  The  name  of  this  island  is  written  Angistri  by  D'Anville ;  and  by  Mr.  Gell,  in 
his  valuable  Map  of  Argolis  :  (See  Itin.  of  Greece,  PL  xxvm.  by  W.  Gell,  Esq.M.A. 
Member  of  the  Society  of  Dilettanti.  Lond.  \8\0.J  Chandler  wrote  it  nearly  as  we 
have  done,  Anchistre:  (Trav.  in  Greece,  p.  200.  Oxf  1776.)  he  says  it  contained 
"  a  few  cottages  of  Albanians." 


MhilfeMWMMlMMBMMMtMiiSI 


QI0w!lfM0HPIiSlHMcW9H9S9MiB9iv^BlMK9fi9fi 


■ 


608 


CHAP.  XV. 


PELOPONNESUS. 

stationed  himself  in  the  prow  of  the  caique,  and  continued 
sounding  as  we  drew  nigh  to  the  land.  Presently,  being 
close  in  with  the  shore,  we  discerned  the  mouth  of 
a  small  cove;  into  which,  by  lowering  our  sails,  and 
taking  to  the  oars,  we  brought  the  vessel ;  and,  heaving 
out  the  anchor,  determined   to  wait  there  until  the  next 

morning. 

When  day-light  appeared,  we  found  ourselves  in  a  wild 
and  desert  place,  without  sign  of  habitation,  or  any  trace  of 
a  living  being :  high  above  us  were  rocks,  and  among  these 
flourished  many  luxuriant  evergreens.  We  did  not  remain 
to  make  farther  examination  of  this  part  of  the  coast ;  but 
got  the  anchor  up,  and,  standing  out  to  sea,  bore  away 
towards  the  south-west.  We  had  not  a  drop  of  fresh  water 
on  board,  but  drank  wine  as  a  substitute,  and  ate  some 
cold  meat  for  our  breakfast,— the  worst  beverage  and  the 
worst  food  a  traveller  can  use,  who  wishes,  in  this  climate, 
to  prepare  himself  for  the  fatigue  he  must  encounter.  Our 
pilot,  being  also  refreshed  with  the  juice  of  the  grape, 
affected  once  more  to  recognise  every  point  of  land,  and 
desired  to  know  what  port  we  wished  to  enter.  Being 
told  that  we  were  looking  out  for  the  harbour  of  Epidaurus, 
or,  as  it  is  now  called,  IllAAYPO,  he  promised  to  take  the 
vessel  safely  in.  It  was  at  this  time  broad  day-light,  and  we 
thought  we  might  venture  under  his  guidance  ;  accordingly, 
we  were  conducted  into  a  small  port  nearly  opposite  to 
Anchestri.  Here  we  landed,  at  ten  o'clock  a.  m.  and  ser.t 
the  Tchohadar  to  a  small  town,  which  the  pilot  said  w*s 
near  to  the  port,  to  order  horses.     We  were  surprised  ia 

finding 


E  P  I  A  D  A. 


609 


CHAP.  XV. 


finding  but  few  ruins  near  the   shore;  nor  was  there  any 
appearance  to  confirm  what  he  had  said  of  its  being  Pidauro: 
we  saw,  indeed,   the  remains  of  an  old  wall,  and  a  marsh 
filled  with  reeds  and  stagnant  water,  seeming  to  indicate  the 
former  existence  of  a  small  inner  harbour  for  boats  that 
had  fallen   to  decay.     The  air  of  this  place  was  evidently 
unwholesome,   and  we  were  impatient   to   leave  the  spot. 
When  the  Tchohadar  returned  with  the  horses,  he  began  to 
cudgel  the  pilot ;   having  discovered  that  Pidauro  was  farther 
to  the  south-west ;  this  port  being  called  EniAAA,  pronounced 
Epi-atha,  the  A  sounding  like  our  Th,  harsh,  as  in  thee  and    Epidda. 
thou.     It  is  laid  down  in  some  Italian  maps  under  the  name 
of  Plada.     The  pilot  now  confessed  that  he  had  never  heard 
of  such   a   port  as  Pidauro  in  his  life.     As    it   would  have 
been  a  vain  undertaking  to  navigate  any  longer  under  such 
auspices,  we  came  to  the  resolution  of  dismissing  our  caique 
altogether.      We   therefore  sent  back  the  pilot  to  JEgina  ; 
ordering  the  good  Captain    to   wait   there  with   his  vessel 
for  the  return  of  Lusieri  and  the  Calmuck ;   and  promising 
him,  if  he  conveyed  them  in  safety  to  the  Piraeus,  to  give 
him,  in  addition  to  his  stipulated  hire,   a  silver  coffee-cup, 
to  be  made  by  an  Athenian  silversmith,  and   to  be  inscribed 
with  his    name,    as    a  token   of  our  acknowledgments  for 
the    many  services  he  had   done  for   us.      The  poor  man 
seemed    to   think    this  cup  of  much  more  importance  than 
any  payment  we  had  before  agreed  to  make  ;  and  we  left 
him,  to   commence  our  tour  in  the  Peloponnesus. 

The  road  from  the  port  to  the  town  of  Epiada  extends 
vol.  in.  4  i  through 


m yv'-i.^'VV*  xswt^i > 


H3N9K9    R9IBIBI9  I^B^BSI  BB  fl^BS      I9^VM 

■Sfiflfi  mKBB    mmNi    0IBS       KHBli9SHw4i9l0^l9tfffl0VvlJHiPvPMPV 


!■■■■   Wm 

MMMMMM 


610 


PELOPONNESUS. 


chap.  xv.  through  olive-plantations  and  vineyards.  The  town  itself 
is  situated  upon  a  lofty  ridge  of  rocks,  and  was  formerly 
protected  by  an  old  castle,  still  remaining.  In  conse- 
quence of  our  inquiry  after  antient  medals,  several  Venetian 
coins  were  offered  to  us ;  and  the  number  of  them  found 
here  may  serve  to  explain  the  origin  of  the  castle,  which 
was  probably  built  by  the  Venetians.  But  besides  these 
coins,  the  author  purchased  here,  for  twenty  piastres,  a  most 

Greek  Medals,  beautiful  silver  tetradrachm  of  Alexander  the  Great,  as  finely 
preserved  as  if  it  had  just  issued  from  the  mint ;  together  with 
some  copper  coins  of  Megara.  The  Greek  silver  medals,  as 
it  is  well  known,  are  often  covered  with  a  dark  surface, 
in  some  instances  quite  black,  resembling  black  varnish : 
the  nature  of  this  investment  perhaps  has  not  been  duly 
examined :  it  has  been  sometimes  considered  as  a  sulphuret ; 
but  the  colour  which  sulphur  gives  to  silver  is  of  a  more  dingy 
nature,  inclining  to  grey :  the  black  varnish  is  a  muriat  of 
silver1.  It  may  be  decomposed  by  placing  the  medals  in  a 
boiling  solution  of  potass  ;  but  antiquaries  in  general  do  not 
choose  to  have  the  dark  varnish  removed.  All  Greek  silver 
coins  are  not  thus  discoloured  ;  many  of  them  retain,  in  the 
highest  perfection,  the  natural  colour  and  lustre  of  the  metal: 
those  only  exhibit  the  appearance  of  a  black  crust  or  varnish 
which  have  been  exposed  to  the  action  of  muriatic  acid, 
either  by  immersion  in  sea  water,  or  by  coming  into  contact 

with 

(l)  It   once  happened  to  the  author  to  open  a  small  case  of  silver  medals  that 
had  been  sunk  in  sea-water.     The  medals   had  been  separately  enveloped  in  brown 

paper, 


EPI  ADA. 

with  it  during  the  time  that  they  have  remained  burred  in 
the  earth.  As  it  had  been  our  original  intention  to  land  at 
Epidaurus,  to  examine  the  remains  of  that  city,  so  we 
determined  now  to  go  first  to  that  port ;  but  the  people  of 
Epidda  told  us  that  there  were  scarcely  any  vestiges  even  of 
ruins  there :  that  all  the  antiquities  we  should  find  consisted 
of  a  headless  marble  statue  (answering  to  the  description 
given  by  Chandler2)  ;  and  that  the  remains  of  the  Temple 
of  Msculapius,  whom  they  called  'Ao-Kkavios,  were  near  to 
Ligurib.  "  There,"  said  one  of  the  inhabitants,  "  are  the 
Ruins  of  his  Temple ;  but  the  seat  of  his  government 
and  his  palace  were  at  Epidaurus  fPidauroJ,  although 
nothing  now  remains  excepting  a  few  broken  pieces  of 
marble."  The  person  who  gave  us  this  information  seemed 
to  be  possessed  of  more  intelligence  than  it  is  usual  to  find 
among  the  Greeks :  we  therefore  profited  by  his  instructions, 
and  set  out  for  Ligurib. 

The  temperature  on  shore,  this  day  at  noon,  was  the  same 
as  it  had  been  upon  the  preceding  day  in  the  middle  of 
the  gulph  ;    that  is  to  say,  68°  of  Fahrenheit.     It  was  four 

o'clock 


611 


CHAP.  XV. 


paper,  which  was  now  become  dry.  To  his  great  surprise,  he  found  every  one  of  them 
covered  with  a  fine  impalpable  powder,  as  white  as  snow.  Placing  them  in  a  window, 
the  action  of  the  sun's  rays  turned  this  powder  to  a  dark  colour  :  when  a  brush  was 
used  to  remove  it,  the  silver  became  covered  with  a  black  shining  varnish,  exactly 
similar  to  that  which  covers  the  antient  silver  coinage  of  Greece  ;  and  this  proved  to 
be  a  muriat  of  silver. 

(2)  Trav.  in  Greece,  p.  221.  Oxf.  1776.     Chandler  calls  it  "  a  maimed  statue  of 
bad  workmanship." 


»»*w*J?    WtjfiWf-SWJ  »W*«B  8B?Wfl«Wi 


,*■>  /*■".-.,-••' 


V.-  ...'»r,  «»-.^:^<^;«f.^>. 


612 


CHAP.  XV. 


Arbutus 
Andraehnc. 


PELOPONNESUS. 

o'clock  p.  m.  before  wc  left  Epidda.  We  noticed  here  .a 
very  remarkable  mineral  of  a  jet  black  colour,  which  at  nrs;t 
sight  seemed  to  be  coal,  but,  upon  further  examination,  lit 
rather  resembled  asphaltum.  It  was  very  soft,  and,  in  places 
where  water  had  passed  over  it,  the  surface  was  polished.  Thie 
specimens  being  lost,  this  is  all  the  description  of  it  we  cam 
now  give.  Our  journey  from  Epidda  towards  the  interior 
of  Epidauria  led  us  over  mountains,  and  through  the  mos>t 
delightful  valleys  imaginable.  In  those  valleys  we  found  thie 
Arbutus  Andrachjie,  with  some  other  species  of  the  same  genus 
flourishing  in  the  greatest  exuberance,  covered  with  flowers 
and  fruit.  The  fruit,  in  every  thing  but  flavour  and  smell!, 
resembled  large  hautbois  strawberries  :  we  found  the  berrie:s 
to  be  cooling  and  delicious,  and  every  one  of  our  party  ate 
of  them1.  This  shrub  is  found  all  over  the  Mediterranean  :  i  t 
attains  to  great  perfection  in  Minorca;  and  from  thence 
eastward  as  far  as  the  coast  of  Syria  it  may  be  found 
adorning  limestone  rocks,  otherwise  barren,  being  never  desti- 
tute of  its  dark  green  foliage,  and  assuming  its  most  glorious 
appearance  at  a  season  when  other  plants  have  lost  their 
beauty.  The  fruit  is  one  entire  year  in  coming  to  maturity  ; 
and  when  ripe,  it  appears  in  the  midst  of  its  beautiful 
flowers.  The  inhabitants  of  Argolis  call  this  plant 
Cuckoomari:  in  other  parts  of  Turkey,  particularly  at 
Constantinople,    it    is     called    Koomaria,     which    is    very 

near 


(l)  "  Arbuteos  foetus,  montanaque  fraga  legebant." 


AUGOirS. 


613 


near    to    its   Greek  name,  Kofiugo?.      It   is  the  'Avfyayyii  of   ^hap.xv.^ 
Theophrastus. 

We  passed  an  antient  edifice  :  it  was  near  to  a  windmill, 
in  a  valley  towards  the  right  of  our  road  and  at  some 
distance  from   us.     Nothing  could  exceed  the  grandeur  of    Appearance  of 

.  the  Country. 

the  scenery  during  the  rest  of  our  ride  to  Ligurib.  On 
every  side  of  us  we  beheld  mountains  reaching  to 
the  clouds ;  although  we  rode  continually  through  deli- 
cious valleys,  covered  by  cultivated  fields,  or  filled  with 
myrtles,  flowering  shrubs,  and  trees.  Every  fertile  spot 
seemed  to  be  secluded  from  all  the  rest  of  the  world,  and 
to  be  protected  from  storms  by  the  lofty  summits  with 
which  it  was  surrounded.  A  white  dress,  worn  by  the 
peasants,  reminded  us  of  the  garments  often  seen  upon 
antient  statues  ;  and  it  gave  to  these  delightful  retreats  a 
costume  of  the  greatest  simplicity,  with  the  most  striking 
effect.  Lusieri  had  spoken  in  rapturous  terms  of  the  country 
he  had  beheld  in  Arcadia :  but  the  fields,  and  the  groves, 
and  the  mountains,  and  the  vales  of  Argolis,  surpassed  all 
that  we  had  imagined,  even  from  his  description  of  the  finest 
parts  of  the  Peloponnesus.  To  render  the  effect  of  the 
landscape  still  more  impressive,  shepherds,  upon  distant 
hills,  began  to  play,  as  it  were  an  evening  service,  upon 
their  reed  pipes ;  seeming  to  realize  the  ages  of  poetic 
fiction,  and  filling  the  mind  with  dreams  of  innocence, 
which,  if  it  dwell  anywhere  on  earth,  may  perhaps  be 
found  in  these  retreats,  apart  from  the  haunts  of  the 
disturber,  whose  "  whereabout"  is  in  cities  and  courts, 
amidst  wealth  and  ambition  and  power.     All  that  seems  to 

be 


*;I^NJ,  H  *J  >  5,^.3. 


i^(5!»  ■iff*'^  «*»<"TF  m^p^? 


Ligurib. 


PELOPONNESUS. 

be  drteadcd  in  these  pastoral  retreats,  are  the  casual  and 
rare  visits  of  the  Turkish  lords  :  and,  unfortunately  for  us, 
it  was  necessary  that  our  arrival  at  Ligurib  should  be 
announced  by  one  of  their  agents  ;  namely,  Ibrahim  the 
Tchohadar;  who,  though  a  very  excellent  man  in  his  way, 
had  been  brought  up  under  a  notion  that  Greeks  and 
Albanians  were  a  set  of  inferior  beings,  whom  it  was 
laudable  to  chastise  upon  every  occasion,  and  to  whom  a 
word  should  never  be  administered  without  a  blow.  It  was 
nearly  dark  when  we  reached  the  town ;  if  a  long  straggling 
village  may  bear  this  appellation.  Ibrahim  rode  first,  and  had 
collected  a  few  peasants  around  him,  whom  we  could  just 
discern  by  their  white  habits,  assembled  near  his  horse.  In 
answer  to  his  inquiries  concerning  provisions  for  the  party, 
they  replied,  in  an  humble  tone,  that  they  had  consumed 
all  the  food  in  their  houses,  and  had  nothing  left  to  offer. 
Instantly,  the  noise  of  Ibrahim's  lash  about  their  heads  and 
shoulders  made  them  believe  that  he  was  the  herald  of  a 
party  of  Turks,  and  they  fled  in  all  directions  :  this  was 
"  the  only  way,"  he  said,  "  to  make  those  misbegotten  dogs 
provide  any  thing  for  our  supper."  It  was  quite  surprising 
to  see  how  such  lusty  fellows,  any  one  of  whom  was  more 
than  a  match  for  Ibrahim,  suffered  themselves  to  be  horse- 
whipped and  driven  from  their  homes,  owing  to  the  dread 
in  which  they  hold  a  nation  of  stupid  and  cowardly 
Mahometans.  We  should  not  have  seen  another  Ligurian, 
if  Antonio  had  not  intercepted  some  of  the  fugitives,  and 
pacified  their  fears,  by  telling  them  who  the  travellers 
really  were  ;  and  that  Englishmen  would  accept  of  nothing 

from 


t,  1  G  U  R  I  O. 


615 


from  their  hands  without  an  adequate  remuneration.  After  chap.  xv. 
this  assurance,  several  times  repeated,  and  a  present  being 
made  to  them  of  a  few  pards,  we  were  conducted  to  what 
is  called  a  Condk,  or  inn;  but  in  reality  a  wretched  hovel,  Condk,  or  inn. 
where  horses,  asses,  and  cattle  of  every  description,  lodge 
with  a  traveller  beneath  the  same  roof,  and  almost  upon  the 
same  rloor.  A  raised  platform  about  twelve  inches  high, 
forming  a  low  stage,  at  one  extremity  of  the  building,  is  the 
part  appropriated  to  the  guests;  cattle  occupying  the  other 
part,  which  is  generally  the  more  spacious  of  the  two.  Want 
of  sleep  makes  a  traveller  little  fastidious  where  he  lies  down; 
and  fatigue  and  hunger  soon  annihilate  all  those  sickly  sensi- 
bilities which  beset  men  during  a  life  of  indolence  and 
repletion.  We  have  passed  many  a  comfortable  hour  in 
such  places ;  and  when,  instead  of  the  Condk,  we  were 
invited  to  the  cleanly  accommodation  offered  beneath  the 
still  humbler  shed  of  an  Albanian  peasant,  the  night  was 
spent  in  thankfulness  and  luxury. 

Here,  as  at  Epidda,  the  coins  which  were  brought  to 
us,  as  antient  medals,  "were  evidently  Venetian  ;  some  of 
them  had  this  legend,  armata  •  et  •  morea  •  but  without  any 
date.  The  Ligurians,  like  the  inhabitants  of  Epidda,  amused 
us  with  traditionary  stories  of  Asclapius,  considering  him  as  a 
great  king  who  had  once  reigned  in  Epidauria.  Immense 
plants  of  the  Cactus  Ficus  Indica  flourished  about  this  place. 
We  set  out  for  the  sacred  seat  of  ^Esculapius,  at  sun-rise. 
The  Ruins  are  situated  at  an  hour's  distance  from  Ligurib,  at 
a  place  now  called  Je'ro,  pronounced  Ye'ro,  which  is  evidently 
a  corruption  of  'Ugov  (sacra  cedes).     Chandler  converted  this 

word 


SEES 


WS*v  'I7R?**1 


HHHHHi 


■I 


■ 


616 


PELOPONNESUS. 


word  J6ro  into  Gdrao,  which  is  remarkable,  considering  his 
usual  accuracy.  Our  friend  Mr.  Gell,  who  was  here  after 
our  visit  to  the  spot,  and  has  published  a  description  and  plan 
of  the  Ruins1,  writes  it  Iero,  as  being  nearer  to  the  original 
appellation.  Circumstances  of  a  peculiar  nature  have  con- 
spired to  render  these  Ruins  more  than  usually  interesting. 
The  remains,  such  as  they  are,  lie  as  they  were  left  by  the 
antient  votaries  of  the  god :  no  modern  buildings,  not  even 
an  Albanian  hut,  has  been  constructed  among  them  to 
confuse  or  to  conceal  their  topography,  as  it  generally  happens 
among  the  vestiges  of  Grecian  cities  :  the  traveller  walks  at 
once  into  the  midst  of  the  consecrated  Peribolus,  and,  from 
the  traces  he  beholds,  may  picture  to  his  mind  a  correct 
representation  of  this  once  celebrated  ivatering- place — the 
Cheltenham  of  Antient  Greece — as  it  existed  when  thronged 
by  the  multitudes  who  came  hither  for  relief  or  relaxation. 
Until  within  these  few  years,  every  vestige  remained 
which  might  have  been  necessary  to  complete  a  plan  of 
the  antient  inclosure  and  the  edifices  it  contained2.  The 
Ligurians,  in  the  time  of  Chandler,  remembered  the  removal 
of  a  marble  chair  from  the  theatre,  and  of  statues  and 
inscriptions  which  were  used  in  repairing  the  fortifications  of 
Nauplia,  and  in  building  a  mosque  at  Argos3.    The  discovery 

of 


(1)  Itinerary  of  Greece,  p.  103.   Lona.  1810. 

(2)  Mr.  Gell,  from  the  remains  existing  at  the  time  of  our  visit  to  the  place,  did 
afterwards  complete  a  very  useful  Plan,  as  a  Guide  for  Travellers,  both  of  the  inclosure 
and  its  environs  :  this  was  engraved  for  his  "  Itinerary  of  Greece."  See  Plate  facing 
p.  10S  of  that  work.    Lend.  IS  10. 

(3)  See  Trav.  in  Greece,  p.  226.     Oxf.  1776. 


LlGUlUO.  617 

of  a  single  marble  chair,  either  within  or  near  to  almost  every     chap.  xv. 
one  of  the  celebrated  theatres  of  Greece,  is  a  circumstance    Cathedra  of 

a  Greek 

that  has  not  been  sufficiently  regarded  by  those  who  are  Theatre. 
desirous  to  illustrate  the  plan  of  these  antient  structures.  We 
afterwards  found  a  relique  of  this  kind  at  Chceronea,  near 
to  the  theatre  ;  whence  it  had  only  been  moved  to  form  part 
of  the  furniture  of  a  Greek  chapel :  another  has  been  already 
noticed  in  the  description  of  Athens  ;  and  the  instances  which 
have  been  observed  by  preceding  travellers  it  is  unnecessary 
now  to  enumerate.  These  chairs,  as  they  have  been  called, 
have  all  the  same  form  ;  consisting  each  of  one  entire  massive 
block  of  white  marble,  generally  ornamented  with  fine 
sculpture.  Owing  to  notions  derived  either  from  Roman 
theatres,  or  from  the  modern  customs  of  Europe,  they  have 
been  considered  as  scats  for  the  chief  magistrates  ;  but  even  if 
this  opinion  be  consistent  with  the  fact  of  there  being  one 
Cathedra  only  in  each  theatre,  it  is  contrary  to  the  accounts 
given  of  the  places  assigned  for  persons  of  distinction  in 
Grecian  theatres,  who  wTere  supposed  to  have  sate  in  the 
Bouleuticon ;  that  is  to  say,  upon  the  eight  rows  of  benches 
within  the  middle  of  the  (KoTXov)  Cavea  of  the  theatre, 
between  the  eighth  and  the  seventeenth  row4.  How 
little  beyond  the  general  form  of  a  Greek  theatre  is  really 
known,   maybe  seen  by  reference   to  a  celebrated  work  in 

our 


(-1)  This  is  the  part  of  a  Greek  theatre  assigned  for  the  flovXevriKov  by  Guilletiere, 

{seep.  510,  Ch.  XII.  of  this  Section,)  who  has  founded  his  observations  upon  a  careful 

comparison  of  the  accounts  left  by  the  Antients  with  the  actual  remains  of  the  theatres 

VOL.  in.  4  K  themselves. 


^^H  ^^H     ■■■■  '.vV'S 


618 


CHAP.  XV. 


PELOPONNESUS. 

our   own  language1,  written  professedly  in  illustration    of 

the    ''-Antiquities  of  Greece."      Yet  this   author,  upon  the 

subject  of  the  \oyfiov,    or  Qvf/Axri,   commonly  translated   by 

the  word  pulpit,    states,    distinctly  enough,   that   it    stood 

in  the   middle  of  the  orchestra*;   which,  as  far   as  we  can 

learn,  is   nearly  the  spot  where  these  marble  reliques  have 

been   found  :    hence   a    question    seems   to    arise,    whether 

they  were  not  intended,  each  as  a  conspicuous  place  in  the 

orchestra    of   the   theatre   to   which    it    belonged,   for    the 

better  exhibition  of  those  performers  who   contested  prizes 

upon    any  musical   instrument,    or   were    engaged    in    any 

trial  of  skill,  where  one  person  only  occupied  the  attention 

of  the  audience.    The  sculpture  upon  one  of  them,  as  thrice 

represented  in   the  third  volume  of  Stuart's  Antiquities  of 

Athens3,  seems  to  favour  this  idea  of  their  use;   because  its 

ornaments  are  actually  those  prizes  wmich  were  bestowed 

upon  successful  candidates ; — a  vessel   of  the  oil   produced 

by  the  olive-tree  that   grew  in  the  Academia;    and   three 

wreaths,  or  chaplets,  with  which  victors  at  the  Panathenaa 

were  crowned. 

Proceeding 

themselves.  Bat  Potter,  and  after  him  other  authors  who  have  written  upon  Grecim 
Antiquities,  consider  the  lowest  part  of  the  coilon  as  the  place  appropriated  to 
the  seats  of  the  magistrates 5  which  agrees  with  a  custom  still  retained  in  sone 
countries,  particularly  in  Sweden.  In  the  theatre  at  Stockholm,  the  King  and  Quen 
gate,  in  two  chairs,  in  the  pit,  in  front  of  the  orchestra.  For  the  fiovXevriKov,  tie 
reader  is  referred  to  Aristophanes,  and  to  Julius  Pollux,  lib.  iv.  c.  19. 

(1)  Archaeologia  Gracca,  by  John  Potter,  D.D.  Archbishop  of  Canterbury. 

(2)  See  vol.1,  p.  42.    Lond.  1/51. 

(3)  See  Stuart's  Athens,  vol.  III.  pp.  19,  29.  "  Whether  they  have  been  seats  or 
a  magistrate  in  a  court  of  judicature,  or  of  officers  in  a  Gymnasium,  is  not  easlj 
determined  from  their  situation."     Ibid.  p.  25.    Lond.  179-4. 


cohoki; 


619 


Proceeding  southward  from  Lignrib,  we  soon  arrived  chap.  xv. 
at  a  small  village  called  Coroni\  whose  inhabitants  were  cormi. 
shepherds.  Here  we  noticed  a  noble  race  of  dogs,  similar 
to  the  breed  found  in  the  province  of  Abruzzo  in  Italy ; 
and  it  is  somewhat  singular  that  the  very  spot  which  still 
bears  an  appellation  derived  from  the  name  of  the  mother  of 
/Esculapiiis  should  be  now  remarkable  for  the  particular  kind 
of  animal  materially  connected  with  his  history.  It  was  a 
shepherd's  dog  who  guarded  the  infant  god  when  exposed 
upon  Mount  Titthion*.  We  bought  a  young  one,  for  ten 
piastres,  of  great  size  and  beauty.  It  resembled  a  wolf,  with 
shining  black  hair.  To  complete  all  the  circumstances  of 
analogy,  they  had  given  to  it  the  name  of  YLogdxi,  as  if  in 
memory  of  the  xoguZ  which  Apollo  set  to  watch  Coro?iis  after 
she  became  pregnant.  Cordki  proved  a  useful  companion  to 
us  afterwards ;  as  he  always  accompanied  our  horses,  and 
protected  us  from  the  attacks  of  the  large  dogs  swarming  in 
the  Turkish  towns  and  villages,  and  constantly  assailing  a 
traveller  upon  his   arrival  :    indeed,  sometimes  it  became  a 

question 


(4)  "  Possibly  an  antient  name  taken  from  the  Nymph  Cor  on  is,  the  mother  of 
'JEsculapius."  (Cell's  Itinerary  of  Greece,  p.  103.  Lond.  1810.)  It  were  to  be 
wished  that  this  industrious  traveller  would  complete  the  design  originally  announced  by 
the  appearance  of  this  publication,  and  extend  it  to  the  rest  of  Greece,  all  of  which  has 
been  visited  and  accurately  surveyed  by  him.  Such  a  work,  to  use  his  own  words, 
"although  it  le  only  calculated  to  become  a  look  of  reference,  and  not  of  general 
entertainment,"  would  be  really  useful ;  and  its  value  would  be  felt,  if  not  by  an 
indolent  reader  at  his  fire-side,  yet  by  the  active  and  enterprising  scholar,  who  wishes 
to  be  guided  in  his  researches  throughout  these  interesting  regions. 

(5)  A  shepherd's  dog  was  represented  as  an   accompaniment   to   the  statue  of  the 
God,  of  ivory  and   gold,  in  his  temple. 


The  Hieron. 


Mow)  tains. 


PELOPONNESUS. 

question  with  us,  whether  Ibrahim  or  Cor  ah  i  were  the  most 
intelligent  and  useful  Tchohadar. 

At  Coroni,  turning  towards  the  east,  we  had  the  first 
sight  of  the  Hiekon.  Its  general  disposition  may  have  been 
anticipated  by  the  Reader,  in  the  description  already  given 
of  the  features  of  Epidauria.  It  is  a  small  and  beautiful 
valley,  surrounded  by  high  mountains ;  one  of  superior 
magnitude  bounding  the  prospect  on  its  eastern  side.  This, 
from  its  double  summit,  consisting  of  two  rounded  eminences, 
may  be  the  mamillary  mountain,  thence  called  Titthion,  by 
Pausanias1,  from  nrOog ;  which  word,  among  a  great  variety  of 
other  instances  proving  the  common  origin  of  the  two  lan- 
guages2, we  have  retained  in  our  word  teat ;  now  becoming 
obsolete.  In  this  valley  were  the  sacred  grove3,  and  Sanc- 
tuary of  Msculapius,  together  with  numerous  baths,  temples,  a 
Stadium,  a  Theatre,  and  some  medicinal  springs  and  wells  ;  the 
remains  of  all  which  may  still  be  severally  discerned.  The 
first    artificial  object    that  appeared   after    we    left    Coroni. 

was 


(l)  "0/0/7   cc    tlaiv    V7rlp    to    a\ao<;,    to    ti    TIT0IOY,    ical    erepov    dvofxaZ6utvo> 
KvvopTtov,  MaXta'roj/  cf  'Atto'XXwvoc  ispov   ev  civt<o.     Pausan.  Corinth,  c.  2/ .    pp 
175.    Lips.  1696. 

(2)  The  nation  from  whom  the  Greeks  were  descended,  and  the  eailiest  settlers  h 
Britain,  spoke  dialects  of  the  same  language.  The  numberless  proofs  that  might  b^ 
adduced  of  this  are  foreign  to  the  object  of  this  publication  3  but,  as  to  an  authority  fo" 
the  common  origin  of  the  two  colonies,  the  author  is  proud  to  refer  to  his  Grandfathers 
learned  work  on  "  the  Connection  of  the  Roman  and  Saxon  Coins ;" — a  work  that  was 
highly  prized  by  the  greatest  Grecian  scholar  England  ever  had  ;  namely,  the  illustrious 
Poison ;  whose  frequent  illustrations  and  evidences  of  the  fact  here  alluded  to  are  recen 
in  the  recollection  of  all  who  knew  him. 

(3)  To  t£  'It(ooV  dXrrot;  tov  'AfficXtpriov  7r£ptc\ovcriv  opoi  TravTcevddev,  pausania 
Corinthiaca,  c.  2/.  p.  1/2.     Lips.  1696. 


■^-'-^ 


II  I  E  R  O  N. 


621 


was  a  considerable  Ruin,  somewhat  resembling  a  castle,  at  chap.  xv. 
a  short  distance  in  the  valley  upon  our  right.  Upon  closer 
inspection,  it  proved  to  be  a  Roman  edifice  of  brick-work, 
and  of  a  square  form  ;  possibly  one  of  the  benefactions  of 
Antoninus  Pius,  who,  while  ^  Roman  senator,  erected  here 
an  hospital  for  the  reception  of  pregnant  women  and  dying 
persons,  that  were  before  always  removed  out  of  the 
Peribolus*,  to  be  delivered,  or  to  expire  in  the  open  air. 
Farther  on  we  perceived  the  traces  of  a  large  building, 
divided  into  several  chambers,  and  stuccoed  ;  and  it  is  known 
that  the  same  senator  also  built  the  Bath  of  JEscalapius, 
besides  making  other  donations.  We  soon  came  to  what 
we  supposed  to  have  been  the  ground-plot  of  the  Temple:  Temple  of 
its  remains  are  seen  only  at  one  extremity,  but  the  oblong 
plane  upon  which  this  immense  fabric  stood  is  clearly  marked 
out  by  the  traces  of  its  foundations.  We  had  no  sooner 
arrived,  than  we  were  convinced  that  the  time  we  proposed  to 
dedicate  to  these  Ruins  would  by  no  means  prove  adequate 
to  any  proper  survey  of  them  :  we  found  enough  to 
employ  the  most  diligent  traveller  during  a  month,  instead 
of  a  single  day.  Near  to  the  temple  is  the  Stadium;  and  its 
appearance  illustrates  a  disputed  passage  in  Pausanias*,  for 
it  consisted  principally  of  high  banks  of  earth,  which  were 

only 


&sculaj>ius. 


Stadh 


(•l)   Oi'd  a-odvijaKovaiv,   ovii  tiktovgiv  at  .yvvaiKEg   a<j)iaiv   ivrog   rov  7reptf3d\ov. 
Pausaniae  Corinthiaca,  ib. 

(5)  Vid.  Pausan.  Corinth,  c.  2?.  p.  173.  lib.  xiy.   cum  Annot.  Xyland.  et  Sylb* 
Edit.  Kuhnii.     Lips.  lGyO. 


■■■■ 


■■■■■■■■■■■■■■I 


Theatre. 


Architectural 
Terra  cottas. 


PELOPONNESUS. 

only  partially  covered  with  seats.  We  observed  here  a  sub- 
terraneous vaulted  passage,  now  choked  with  rubbish,  which 
conducted  into  its  area1,  on  the  left  side  of  it,  and  near  to  the 
principal  entrance.  This  Stadium  has  fifteen  rows  of  seats  ; 
but  the  seats  are  only  at  the  upper  end  of  the  structure  :  the 
rest  is  of  earth,  heaped  so  as  to  form  its  sides.  The  Theatre 
is  farther  on  towards  the  mountains,  on  the  right  hand; 
and  it  is  one  of  the  most  remarkable  in  all  Greece;  not 
only  from  the  state  in  which  it  remains,  but  in  being  men- 
tioned by  Patisanias  as  a  work  of  Polycletus,  renowned  for 
excelling  all  other  architects  in  the  harmony  and  beauty  of  his 
structures*.  We  found  a  subterraneous  building,  resembling 
a  small  chapel,  without  being  able  even  to  conjecture  for 
what  purpose  it  was  constructed,  unless  it  were  for  a  bath. 
Near  to  it  we  saw  also  a  little  stone  coffin,  containing  frag- 
ments of  terra-cotta  vases  :  it  had  perhaps  been  rifled  by  the 
peasants,  and  the  vases  destroyed,  in  the  hope  of  discovering 
hidden  treasure.  But  the  most  remarkable  reliques  within 
the  sacred  precinct  were  architectural  remains  in  terra  cotta. 
We  found  the  ornaments  of  a  frieze,  and  part  of  the  cornice 
of  a  temple,  which  had  been  manufactured  in  earthenware. 
Some  of  these  ornaments  had  been  moulded  for  relievos ;  and 
others,  less  perfectly  baked,  exhibited  painted  surfaces.    The 

colours 


(1)  Chandler  says,  it  was  a  private  way,  by  which  the  Agonothetce,  or  Presidents, 
with  the  priests  and  persons  of  distinction,  entered.     Sec  Trav.  in  Greece,  p.  225. 

(2)  'Apfioviac  he  f)  tcdWovs  t'lveKa,  dp\tTiKTo>v  7roto<;  ic  ajtiWav  YIoXvkXcitu 
ycvoiT1  av  d'£toy£psuc;  TIoXvkXzitos  ydp  Kai  Oiarpov  rovro,  KCtt  (HKTjua  to  irtpiytpis 
6  7roitj(ras  rjv.     Pausaniae  Corinthiaca,  c.  27-  p.  174.    Lips.  l6g6. 


— — — Ml  ■■_ 


HIERON. 


623 


colours  upon  the  latter  still  retained  much  of  their  original     chap,  xv. 
freshness:    upon  being  wetted   with    water,  they  appeared 
as  vivid   as  when  they  were  first  laid  on ;  resembling  the 
painted   surfaces  of  those  "pictured  urns"    (as  they   were 
termed  by  our  English  Pindar)  upon  which  it  is  now  usual 
to  bestow  the  appellation  of  "  Grecian  vases"      The  won- 
derful state  of  preservation  manifested  by  the  oldest  painted 
terra  cottas  of  Greece  has  been  supposed  to  be  owing  to  the 
circumstance   of   their  remaining  in   sepulchres   where   the 
atmospheric   air   was  excluded :  but  these   ornaments  were 
designed  for  the  outside  of  a  temple,  and  have  remained  for 
ages  exposed  to  all  the  changes  of  weather,  upon  the  surface 
of  the  soil.    In  the  description  before  given  of  the  Memphian 
Sphinx,    another   striking    example   was    adduced,   proving 
through   what   a   surprising  lapse  of  time  antient  painting 
has   resisted    decomposition :    and    if  the  period   of  man's 
existence  upon  earth  would  admit  of  the  antiquity  ascribed 
by  Plato  to    certain  pictures  in  Egypt,    there    would  have 
been  nothing  incredible  in  the   age  he  assigned   to  them9. 
The    colours  upon  these  terra  cottas  were  a  bright  straw- 
yellow  and  red.     The  building  to  which   they  belonged  is 
mentioned  by  Pausanias  ;  and  to  increase  the  interest  excited 
by   the    discovery    of   these   curious  remains,  we  found  the 
same  passage   of    that  historian   cited    by    Winhelmann,    to 
prove  that  such  materials  were  used  in  antient  architecture4. 

After 


(3)  See  p.  149,    Chap.  IV.  of  this  Section.      "The  walls  of  great  edifices,"    says 
Pauw,  (ibid.)    "  when  once  paintedj  remained   so  for  ever." 

(4)  Histoire  de  l'Art  chez  les  Anciens,  torn.  II.  p,  544.    Paris,  An  2. 


^m 


;,97.',k 


HB^^^B^S  '  ?  BBB9BBSBBBBBBBH  BBBB  ■^■^^■v^^^H  I 


624 


CHAP.  XV. 


Temple  of  the 

Coryphcean 

Diana. 


PELOPONNESUS. 

After  describing  the  Theatre,  the  Stadium,  and  other  edifices. 
Pansanias  adds1:     "  The  Hieron  once    contained  a  portico 
{a-rocC),  called  that  of  Cotys;   but  the  roof  falling  in,  caused 
the  destruction  of  the  whole  edifice,  owing  to  the  nature  of 
its  materials,  which  consisted  of  crude  tiles." 

We  then  went,  by  an  antient  road,  to  the  top  of  a  hill 
towards  the  east,  and  found  upon  the  summit  the  remains  of  a 
temple,  with  steps  leading  to  it  yet  remaining  :  there  is  reason 
to  believe  this  to  have  been  the  Temple  of  the  Coryphcean 
Diana,  upon  Mount  Cynortium,  from  the  circumstance  of  an 
Inscription  which  we  discovered  upon  the  spot.  It  is  imper- 
fect ;  but  it  mentions  a  priest  of  Artemis,  of  the  name  oiApota- 
tilius,  who  had  commemorated  his  safety  from  some  disorder  : 

APTEMI AOCAP 
OTATEI  AIOCCCJUN 

EPAHOAHACTOC 

By  the  side  of  this  temple  there  was  a  bath,  or  reservoir, 
lined  with  stucco,  thirty  feet  by  eight,  with  some  Lu- 
machella  columns  of  the  Doric  order  :  the  foundations 
and  part  of  the  pavement  of  the  temple  yet  exist,  and 
these  are  not  less  than  sixty  paces  in  extent :  we  noticed 
some  channels  grooved  in  the  marble,  for  conveying  water 
in  different  directions.  The  traces  of  buildings  may  be 
observed   upon    all   the    mountains    which   surrounded    the 

sacred 


(l)  Kcu  %v  yap  crrod  Ka\ovpkvr\  KoVi/oc,  Karabpiftvros  ci  ol  rov  opocbov,  Ficddapro 
rj^rj  nana,  are  aprjs  rrj<;  irXivdov  rrotrjQeiffa.  Pausan.  Corintbiaca,  C.  2"J .  p.  \J\, 
Lips.  I696. 


feJIft^ar 


HIERON. 


625 


sacred  valley  ;  and  over  all  this  district  their  remains  are  as     chap.  xv. 

various  as   their  history  is  indeterminate.     Some  of  them 

seem  to  have  been  small  sanctuaries,  like  chapels ;  others 

appear  as  baths,  fountains,   and  aqueducts.    The  Temple  of 

the  Coryphcean   Diana   is    mentioned    by    Pausanias2;    and 

being  identified  with  this  ruin,  it  may  serve  to  establish  a 

point  of  observation  for  ascertaining  the  edifices  described 

by  the  same  author  as  in  its  neighbourhood.     It  was  upon  the 

summit  of  Cynortium;  and  had  been  noticed  by  Telesilla  in 

her  poems.    We  next  came  to  a  singular  and  very  picturesque    Temple  of 

structure,  with    more  the  appearance  of  a  cave   than  of  a      P° 

building.    It  was  covered  with  hanging  weeds,  overgrown 

with  bushes,  and  almost  buried  in  the  mountain :  the  interior 

of  it  exhibited  a    series    of  circular  arches,  in   two   rows, 

supporting  a  vaulted  roof;  the  buttresses  between  the  arches 

being  propped  by  short  columns.     Possibly  this  may  have 

been  the  building  which  Chandler,  in  his  dry  way,  called 

"a  Church"  without  giving  any  description  of  it;  where, 

"  besides  fragments,  he  found  an  Inscription  to  far-darting 

"  Apollo*.*'     He  supposes  the  Temple  of  Apollo  which  was 

upon  Mount  Cynortium  to  have  stood  upon  this  spot. 

Below  this  mountain,  by  the  northern  side  of  a  water-course,     circular 
now  dry,  and  rather  above  the  spot  where  it  discharged  itself 

into 


(2)  E7rt  Be  Tt]  ukoci  tov  opovs,  Kopv(j>aia<;  larlv  lepou  ,Apre/nido<;,  ofi  teal  TeXiaiWa 
eTTOujaaro  iv  aafxarL  fxvrfjxt]v.     Pausan.  Corinth,  c.  28.  p.  175.     Lips.  \6q6. 

(3)  See  the  Vignette  to  this  Chapter.  The  arches  may  be  as  old  as  the  time  of 
Pausanias.  The  Inscription  mentioned  by  Chandler  is  as  follows :  "  Diogenes  the 
hierophant,  to  far-darting  Apollo,  on  account  of  a  vision  in  his  sleep."  Trav.  in 
Greece,  p.  225.     Oxf  1776. 

VOL.  III.  4  L 


^^■■■1     ■■■■■■■ 


626 


CHAP.  XV. 


Theatre  of 
Potycletus. 


PELOPONNESUS. 

into  the  valley,  is  a  small  building  of  a  circular  form, 
covered  by  a  dome,  with  arches  round  the  top.  We  found 
a  few  imperfect  Inscriptions,  one  of  which  mentions  Hiero- 
phants,  or  Priests  of  Mars,  (Uv^^oi,)  dedicating  some  votive 
offering.     All  that  we  could  trace  were  these  letters : 

I  APE 

<t>  AHN 
PYP*OPO 
AN  E0H  K A 

The  circular  building  is  too  modern  in  its  aspect,  and 
too  mean  in  its  materials,  for  the  Tholus  of  Pausanias1, 
of  white  marble,  built  by  Polycletus,  architect  of  the 
theatre;  but  it  may  perhaps  correspond  better  with  the 
fountain  which  he  alludes  to,  as  remarkable  for  its  roof 
and  decorations-;    this  kind  of  roof  being  almost  unknown 


in  Greece. 


l,  ■u:, 


i  lit   Dunaing,    although   smaller,    bears  some 


mil- 


resemblance  to  the  well-known  hath,  improperly  called  the 
Temple  of  Venus  at  Baice. 

Hence  we  repaired  to  the  Theatre,  now  upon  our  left 
hand,  but  upon  the  right  to  those  entering  the  Hieron  from 
Coroni,  that  is  to  say,  upon  its   southern  side'.    Chandler 

speaks 


(1)  Oiicrffia  Se  7rspi(j>£pL<;  XiOov  \£vkov  KaXovptvov  ©OA02,  uKocd^Tai  7r\t)(T,oi>, 
6cas  afyov.     Pausaniae  Corinthiaca,  c.  27.  p.  173.    Lips.  1696. 

(2)  KcU     Kfitjvr]    TU>    T£    dpotyw    KCtl   KdlTflU)    TU>     Xoi7TU)    (}£OtC    ullCl.         Ibid.    p.  174. 

(3)  'ETTidavpioie  vi  inn  diarpop  'EN  THI  'IEPftl,  ftdXierra  ipol  Bokbiv  dcu<;  a&v. 
(Ibid.)  This  expression  of  Pausanias,  "  Within  the  Hieron,"  or  sacred  precinct,  has 
been  by  some  preposterously  rendered  "  Within  the  Temple."  A  Theatre  witbls  a 
Temple  ! !  ! 


II  I  E  It  O  N.  627 

speaks  of  its  "marble  seats"  as  "  overgrown  with  bushes4:"  t  CHAP-  xv-, 
we  found  those  seats  to  consist  of  common  limestone,  a 
difference  of  little  moment;  but  as  we  paid  particular  atten- 
tion to  the  dimensions  and  figure  of  this  splendid  structure, 
one  of  the  most  entire  of  all  the  Grecian  theatres,  and  in  its 
original  and  perfect  state  one  of  the  most  magnificent 5,  so 
we  shall  be  very  particular  in  giving  an  account  of  it. 
We  found  it  tenanted  by  a  variety  of  animals,  which  were 
disturbed  at  our  approach, — hares,  red-legged  partridges, 
and  tortoises  :  our  new  acquaintance  Cordki,  accompa- 
nied by  his  former  master,  a  descendant  of  the  goat-herd 
Aresthanas,  bounded  among  the  seats,  and,  driving  them  from 
their  haunts,  soon  put  us  into  sole  possession.  But  an 
animal  of  a  very  different  nature  was  dragged  from  his 
lurking-place  by  Mr.  Cripps;  who,  delighted  by  the  dis- 
covery he  had  made,  came  running  with  an  extraordinary  Epidaurian 
snake  which  he  had  caught  among  some  myrtles,  and  held 
writhing  in  his  hands.  It  was  of  a  bright  yellow  colour, 
shining  like  burnished  gold,  about  a  yard  in  length,  such  as 
none  of  us  had  seen  before.  The  peasants,  however,  knew 
it    to  be   a    species  of  harmless  serpent,  which  they  had 

been 


(4)  Trav.  in  Greece,  p.  225.     Oxf.  1776. 

(5)  This  is  evident  from  the  manner  in  which  it'is  always  mentioned  by  Pausanias, 
who  speaks  of  the  comparative  magnificence  and  architectural  skill  shewn  in  other 
theatres,  with  reference  to  this  of  Polycletus  in  Epidauria.  Thus,  when  he  is  giving 
an  account  of  a  theatre  in  JEgina,  he  says  of  it,  Qiarp6t>  hrc  deas  ci^iov,  Kara  to 
"E^-icavpiuv  fxd\i<TTa  fxiyiQoQ  kuI  ipyaaiav  Tt)v  XourTJy.  Pausan.  Corinth,  c.  29.  p.  180. 
Lips.  1696. 


^^H 


■■■■      fwfm  ww 


mm: 


Aspect  of 
the  Ooilon. 


PELOPONNESUS. 

been  accustomed  to  regard  with  tenderness,  and  even  with 
superstitious  veneration;  telling  us  it  would  be  unlucky  in 
any  one  who  should  do  it  injury.  It  was,  in  fact,  one  of 
the  curious  breed  described  by  Pausanias,  as  peculiar  to  the 
country  of  the  Epidauriaiis,  being  always  harmless,  and  of 
a  yellow  colour'.  We  could  not,  however,  assist  Mr.  Cripps 
in  its  preservation ;  no  one  of  our  party  being  able  to  divest 
himself  sufficiently  of  a  very  common  antipathy  for  serpents  : 
and  the  consequence  was,  that  being  unwilling  to  put  it  to 
death,  and  the  peasants  wishing  for  its  release,  he  suffered 
it  to   escape. 

The  Coiion  of  this  theatre,  as  usual,  has  been  scooped  in 
the  side  of  a  mountain  ;  but  it  faces  the  north.  As  the  sea 
could  not  enter  into  the  perspective,  which  seems  to  have 
been  a  general  aim  of  the  architects  by  whom  such  structures 
were  planned  throughout  Greece,  this  position  of  the 
theatre  may  have  been  designed  to  afford  it  as  much  shade 
as  its  situation  was  capable  of  receiving.  Its  northern  aspect, 
and  the  mountain  towering  behind  it,  must  have  protected 
the  whole  edifice,  during  a  great  portion  of  the  day,  from 
the  beams  of  the  sun  ;  and  we  may  suppose  this  to  have  been 
a  consideration,  rather  than  any  circumstance  of  expediency 
as  to  the  mountain  itself,  because  the  whole  circumference 
of  the  Peribolus  afforded  declivities  equally  well  adapted  to 
the  purpose  of  constructing  a  theatre  :  and   it  is  also  well 

known 


(1)     ApUKOl'Ttr    (  I  ul    \0lTT0i  Kdl'tTtpOV  yiVOS  h  TO     '^avQoTEpOV    pilTOVTCi     "XpOat,     tfX't 

uiv  tuv    A(TK\>i7nov  vofii£ovrat,   kcii    eiffiv   uvdpuiTron;   ijpupoi'   Tpi<f>£i    os  fiovi]  trtycs    >< 
tmv  yJ£jwuii\ i.oiwi'  yij.    Pausaniae  Corinthiaca,  c.  28.  p.  1/5.     Lips.  1696. 


HIERON. 

known  that  the  Greeks  were  frequently  obliged  to  carry 
umbrellas  (<nctuhia)  with  them  into  their  theatres ;  sub- 
mitting to  their  incumbrance,  rather  than  remain  exposed  to 
the  sun's  rays.  The  women  upon  such  occasions  were  also 
attended  by  their  umbrella-bearers  (o-Ktufaqtogot)*;  and  this 
custom,  from  the  increase  it  occasioned  in  the  throng,  added 
to  the  embarrassment  caused  among  the  audience  by  the 
number  of  umbrellas  intercepting  the  view  of  the  stage,  must 
have  rendered  a  shaded  theatre  a  very  desirable  acquisition. 
Indeed  we  know  that,  upon  some  occasions,  temporary 
sheds  and  large  awnings  were  erected  for  the  convenience 
of  the  spectators.  Every  provision  of  this  kind  was  doubly 
necessary  in  the  Hieron  ;  by  its  nature  sultry,  owing  to  its 
surrounding  mountains,  and  filled  with  inhabitants  selected 
from  all  the  invalids  of  Greece, — the  feeble,  the  enervated, 
the  effeminated  votaries  of  the  God, — vainly  seeking  in  these 
retreats  a  renovation  of  exhausted  nature ;  or  aged  and  infirm 
persons,  anxiously  looking  for  some  gleam  of  cheerfulness, 
wherewith  to  gladden  the  termination  of  a  career  that  knew 
no  hope  beyond  the  grave.  It  is  evident  that  the  disposition 
of  this  popular  place  of  amusement  was  arranged  with  luxury 
as  well  as  convenience;  for,  in  addition  to  the  shade  it 
offered,  the  salutary  waters  of  the  Hieron  flowed  in  the 
deep  bed  of  a  torrent  immediately  beneath  its  front3.  With 
regard  to    the  theatre  itself,   ftie  Scene,  or,  as  it  has  been 

sometimes 


629 


CHAP.  XV. 


(2)  iElian.  Hist.  Var.  lib.  vi.  c.  1.     Lips.  17SO. 

(3)  It  is  impossible  to  multiply  the  number  of  engravings  so  often  as  the  insufficiency 
of  a  written  description  renders  their  aid  requisite  ;  but  the  Reader  is  particularly  referred 

to 


630 


PELOPONNESUS. 


CHAP.  XV. 


Perfect  state 
of  the 
structure. 


sometimes  improperly  called,    the  Proscenion1,    has    totally 
disappeared;  and  as  it  was   here  that  Polycletus  probably 
exhibited  the  greatest  proof  of  those  architectural  talents  so 
highly  extolled   by  Pausanias,  the  loss  of  it  is  highly  to  be 
regretted  :  but  such  is  the  entire  state  of  the  structure  within 
the  Cotton,  that   not  one  of    the  seats   is  either  missed   or 
imperfect.      Owing   to  their  remarkable   preservation,   we 
were  enabled  to   measure,   with  the  greatest  accuracy,   the 
diameter  of  the  Conistra,  and  the  dimensions  of  all  the  parts 
appropriated  to  the  spectators.    There  is  something  remark- 
able even  in  the  position  of  the  seats  :  their  surface  is   not 
perfectly  horizontal ;  the  architect  has  given  to  them  a  slight 
inclination,  perhaps  that  water  might  not  rest  upon   them 
during  rain.     The  section  of  these  seats   would  exhibit  a 
profile  of  this  kind  : 


By 


to  a  view  of  this  Theatre,  of  the  torrent's  course,  which  is  now  dry,  and  of  the  whole 
Hieron,  as  engraved  from  a  drawing  made  upon  the  spot  by  W.  Gell,  Esq.  See 
Itinerary  of  Greece,  Plate  22.  p.  104.    Lond.  IS  10. 

(1)  This  name  applies  only  to  the  Stage  of  a  Greek  theatre. 


HIERON.' 


631 


By  a  simple  contrivance,  which  is  here  visible,  the  seats  of   ^chap.xv. 
the  spectators  were  not  upon  a  level  with  the  places  for  the    Dimensions 
feet  of  those  who  sate  behind  them;    a  groove,   eighteen    the  parts!  ° 
inches  wide,  and  about  two  inches  deep,  being  dug  in  the 
solid  mass  of  stone  whereof  each  seat  consisted,  expressly  for 
the  reception  of  the  feet;  and  this  groove  extended  behind 
every  row  of  spectators,  all  around  the  theatre;  by  which 
means  their  garments  were  not  trampled  upon  by  persons 
seated  above  them.     The  width  of  each  seat  was  fourteen 
inches,  and  its  perpendicular   elevation  sixteen  inches.    The 
number  of  the  seats,  counted  as  steps  from   the  Conistra  or 
Pit,  to  the  top   of   the  Coilon,   was  fifty-six2:    in  the  same 
direction  from  the  Pit,  upwards,  the  semicircular  ranges  of 
the  seats  were  intersected  at  right  angles  by  above  twenty 
flights  of  little  stairs  ;  each  flight  being  twenty-eight  inches 
and  a   half  wide,  and    each    step    exactly  half  the    height 
of  one   of  the  benches  :  these,  crossing   the  several  rows 
from  the  Pit  upwards,  enabled  persons  to  ascend  to  the  top 
of  the  theatre,  without  incommoding  the  spectators  when 
seated.      Guilleiiere,    speaking   of    such    stairs,   says,    that 
near  to  them  were  passages  leading  to  the  outer  porticoes, 
by  which  the  spectators  entered  to  take  their  places3.     He 
seems  to  have  founded  this  notion  upon  the  plan  of  a  Roman 
theatre,  the  view  of  which  he  has  given  in  his  work4.     We 

do 


(2)  Mi.  Gell  says  fifty-five. 

(3)  See  Chap.  XII.  p.  510,  of  this  Vol.  line  15. 

(4)  Sec  Plate  facing  p.  1,  from  a  design  by  Guillet ;  engraved  by  Gobille,  "  Athenes 
ancienne  et  modcrne."     Parts,  ].675. 


632 


PELOPONNESUS. 


chap,  xv.  do  not  remember  ever  to  have  seen  in  Grecian  theatres  any 
such  retreats  or  entrances,  near  to  the  little  stairs  for  crossing 
the  benches :  the  entrances  to  a  Greek  theatre  were  either 
vaulted  passages  at  the  sides,  near  to  what  we  should  call 
the  stage-boxes,  or  in  the  exterior  front  of  the  Scene,  behind 
the  stage  itself1.  Many  authors  speak  of  those  porticoes,  as 
being  erected  behind  the  Cavea ;  which,  as  applied  to  the 
theatres  of  Greece,  is  ridiculous2;  for  what  can  be  more 
absurd  than  to  tell  of  buildings  behind  seats,  which  were 
either  integral  parts  of  a  mountain,  or  were  adapted  to  its 
solid  surface.  The  porticoes  to  which  the  audience  retired 
for  shelter,  in  rainy  weather,  must  have  had  a  different 
situation.  The  whole  of  the  Cotton,  or  Cavea,  that  is  to  say, 
of  the  seats  taken  altogether,  was  separated  into  two  parts, 
an  upper  and  a  lower  tier,  by  a  diazoma  or  corridor,  half 
way  from  the  top,  running  parallel  to  the  rows  of  seats;  and 
in  this,  as  upon  a  platform,  there  was  space  from  one  extre- 
mity of  the  circular  arch  to  the  other.  The  two  parts  of  a 
theatre  thus  separated  are  perhaps  all  that  Vitruvius  intended 
by  the  "two  distinct  elevations  of  the  rows  of  benches," 
which  Guilletiere  complained  of  being  unable  to  reconcile 
with  anything  now  remaining  of  antient  theatres3.  The 
diameter  of  the  Conistra,  or  Pit,  taken  in  the  widest  part,  is 


one 


(1)  See  a  View  of  the  Theatre  at  Telmessus,  Chap.  VIII.  of  the  former  Section, 
facing  p.  236.     Broxhourne,  Second  Edit. 

(2)  See  Potter's  Archaeolog.  Graec.  vol.1,  p.  42.    Land.  1751.      Har wood's  Gnec. 
Antiq.  p.  18.    Lond.  1801,  &c.  &c. 

(3)  See  p.  508,  line  13.  Chap.  XII.  of  this  Volume. 


LESSA. 


633 


one  hundred  and  five  feet ;  but  as  the  circular  arch  of  the 
Theatre  is  greater  than  a  semicircle,  the  width  of  the 
orchestra,  that  is  to  say,  the  chord  of  the  arch,  is  barely  equal 
to  ninety  feet4.  Facing  the  Theatre,  upon  the  opposite 
bank  of  the  bed  of  the  torrent  before  mentioned,  are  the 
foundations  of  an  edifice  of  considerable  size :  but  it  were 
endless  to  enumerate  every  indistinct  trace  of  antient  build- 
ings within  this  celebrated  valley;  nor  would  such  a  detail 
afford  the  smallest  portion  of  satisfactory  information.  With 
the  description  of  the  Theatre  we  shall  therefore  conclude 
our  observations  upon  the  Hieron  ;  hoping  that  nothing- 
worthy  of  consideration  has  been  omitted,  respecting  one  of 
the  most  perfect  structures  of  the  kind  in  all  Greece. 

We  returned  by  the  way  of  Coroni ;  and  near  to  Ligurib 
took  a  western  course  in  the  road  leading  towards  Nauplia, 
the  antient  port  of  Argos*.  After  journeying  for  about  an 
hour,  through  a  country  resembling  many  parts  of  the 
Apennines,  we  saw  a  village  near  the  road,  with  a  ruined 
castle  upon  a  hill,  to  the  right,  where  the  remains  of  Lessa 
are  situated.  This  village  is  half  way  between  Ligurib  and 
Nauplia ;  and  here  was  the  antient  boundary  between  Epi- 
dauria  and  the  Argive  territory6.  Those  Ruins  have  not  yet 
been  visited  by  any  traveller :  indeed,  there  is  much  to  be 

done 


CHAP.  XV. 


Journey  to 
Nauplia. 


Lessa. 


(4)  Mr.  Gell  states  it  as  equal  to  eighty-nine  feet.  See  Itin.  of  Greece,  p.  108.  Lond. 
IS  10. 

(5)  'H    NATnAIA,  70    ruv  'Apytiav  vavaradfxov.    Strab.  Geog.   lib.  viii.  p.  505. 
ed.  Oxon.  1807. 

(6)  Kara    tie   rrjv  Atjaaav  tytTai   rr}<;  'Apyeias   >/   'JLnihavpiav.     Paus.  Corinth. 
c.  26.  p.  169.    Lips.  1696. 

VOL.  III.  4  M 


y*;  i®y& 


634 


CHAP.  XV. 


Dorian  and 
Egyptian  An- 
tiquities. 


PELOPONNESUS. 

done  throughout  Argolis :  this  country,  particularly,  merits 
investigation.     The  antiquities  that  occurred  in  our   route 
were  principally  of  a  sepulchral  nature,  near  to  the  antient 
road  leading  from  Nauplia  towards  Lessa  and  Epidaurus;  but 
so  peculiarly  characterized,  as  to  form  and  structure,  that  it 
is    evident    they  were  the   works    of  the   earliest  colonies 
in    Peloponnesus,    and  probably  of   Dorian    origin.       One 
of  these   monuments  is  decidedly  mentioned   by  Pausanias, 
as    we  shall   presently   shew;    the  only  author  to    whom 
we   can  refer  for  information  concerning  this  part  of  the 
Peloponnesus.      Strabo  makes  but  few  remarks  upon  the 
Argivc  territory;    and   even  these  are  delivered   from    the 
observations    of  Artemidorus  and   Apollodorus  ;  not  having 
himself  visited   the    spot1.     We   passed  some    tombs    that 
were  remarkable  in  having  large  rude  stones,   of  a  square 
form,   placed   upon    their    tops;    a   custom    alluded    to    by 
Pausanias  in  the  description  he  has  given    of  the    tumulus 
raised    by    Telamon    upon    the    shore  of  JEgina,    near   to 
the  JEaceum.     The    foa^a)   heap  had  upon    the   top  of  it 
(xidog  r^xk)  "  a  rugged  stone,"  once  used,  according  to  a 
tradition   in    the   second    century,   by  Peleus   and  Telamon, 
as  a  discus,  with  which  Peleus  slew  Phocus  during  a  game  of 
quoits*.     It  has  been  a  common  notion    everywhere,  that 
antient  heroes  were  men  of  gigantic  stature.     The  fable, 

therefore, 


(1)  "ETrieavpos,  w<   ,Aprefxicup6c  ^aiv.     'ArroWdLipog  $i,   k.  t.  X.      Shab.  Geog. 
lib.  mi.  pp.  534,  535.  edit.  Oxon.   1807. 

(2)  Vid.  Pausan.  in  Corinthiac.  c.29.  pp.  179.  180.    Lips.  1 696. 


ARGOLIS. 


635 


therefore,  as  related  to  Pausanias  by  the  Mginetans,  is  of  little    ^chap  xv. 
moment ;  but  the  fact  of  a  stone  so  placed  is  sufficient  to 
prove  that  such  a  substitute  for  the  Stele  was  found  upon  a 
Dorian  tumulus  of  very  remote  antiquity;  and  the  observation 
of  the  historian  is  in  some  measure  confirmed  by  the  exis- 
tence of  similar  tombs   in  Argolis  corresponding    with    his 
description  of  the  mound  in  Mgina ;   the  Dorians  having 
possessed  this  island  and  the  Argive  territory  nearly  twelve 
centuries  before  the  Christian  aera :  at  that  time  the  Pelo- 
ponnesus was  the  principal  seat  of  their  power,  and  by  them 
the  city  of  Megara  was  then  founded.     Upon  the  left-hand 
side  of  the  road  we  also  observed  an  Egyptian  sepulchre, 
having  a  pyramidal  shape  ;  and  agreeing  so  remarkably,  both 
as  to  form  and  situation,  with  a  monument  mentioned  by 
Pausanias,  that  we  believed  ourselves  to  be  actually  viewing 
the  identical  tomb  seen  by  him3.     He  supposes  the  traveller 
coming   in   a    contrary    direction   from    the     line    of    our 
route ;  that  is  to  say,  from  Argos  towards  Epidauria;  and  in 
so  doing  he  describes  a  pyramidal  structure  as  being  upon 
the  rifyJit  of  the  observer.     It  contained,  he  says4,  shields 
of  an  Argolic  form ;  for  a  battle  had  once  been  fought  in  the 
place,  between  the  armies  of  Prcetus  and  Acrisius,  upon 
which  occasion  shields  were  first  used,  and  those  who  fell 

on 


(3)  'EpxofiivOK;  3'  g  "Apyovs    k    r>/v    TSeritavp'tav,    tort*    ohoUpi^a    h    fc&f 
vvpaiilli  pdXiora  ekdtrfisvoy,   c.r.  X.      Pans.  Corinth,  c.25.  p.  168.    Lips.  1696. 

(4)  Ibid. 


w*p  mm 


Arachneeus 
Mom. 


PELOPONNESUS. 

on  either  side  were  here  buried  in  one  common  sepulchre. 
However,  he  is  evidently  describing  a  sepulchre  nearer  to 
Argos  ;  for  he  adds,  that  upon  quitting  the  spot,  and  turning 
towards  the  right  hand,  the  Ruins  of  Tiryns  appear  ':  there- 
fore the  pyramidal  form  may  have  been  common  to  many 
antient  sepulchres  in  Argolis.  Lessa  was  hut  a  village  in  the 
time  of  Pausanias 2,  as  it  now  is :  but  it  was  remarkable  for  a 
temple  and  wooden  image3  of  Minerva  ;  and  upon  the  moun- 
tain above  the  village,  perhaps  where  the  castle  now  stands, 
there  were  altars  of  Jupiter  and  Juno,  whereon  sacrifices- 
were  offered  in  times  of  drought4.  The  mountain  then  bore 
the  name  of  Arachneeus:  its  antient  appellation,  under 
Inachus,  had  been  Sapyselat.6nb . 

During  this  part  of  our  journey  the  more  distant  moun- 
tains of  the  Morea  appeared  extremely  lofty,  elevating  their 
naked  summits  into  the  pure  aether,  with  uncommon  sub- 
limity. The  road  led  through  a  mountain  pass  that  had 
been  strongly  fortified.  We  saw  everywhere  proofs  of  the 
fertility  of  the  soil*  in  the  more  open  valleys,  plantations  of 
pomegranate  and  mulberry  trees;  and  even  amidst  the  most 
rocky  situations  there  sprouted  myrtles,  beautiful  heaths,  and 
flowering    shrubs,    among   which    sheep    and    goats    were 

browsing 


(1)  Ylpotouat  Sc  hrevdiy  kcii  EKTpaireiffiv  h  Sefydv,  Tipvvdut;  iertv  eptiwta.   Pausan. 
Corinth,  c.  25.  p.  169.    Lips.  1696. 

(2)  Kara   cie  rrjv  ec  'JLiricavpov  evdetav,   'iffTt  K.HMII  Ar/ffffa.     Ibid.  p.  l6g. 

(3)  Nadc   »cat  ^oavov.     Ibid. 

(4)  Ibid. 

(5)  Ha7rvfff\ciTuv.     Ibid. 


AltGOLIS.  QW 

browsing  in  great  number.     We  met  several  herds  upon  the      chap.  xv. 
road,  each  herd  containing  from  seven  to  nine  hundred  head  of 
cattle.    As  we  drew  near  to  the  sea-side,  we  passed  a  very  ex- 
tensive plantation  of  olive-trees ;  and  came  to  an  antient  paved 
road,  leading  from  Nauplia  towards  Argos  the  once  renowned 
capital.     Sepulchres,  as  old  as  the  age  of  Danaus,  appeared 
among    the   rocks    before    we   reached  the   town.      Strabo 
assigns   to   them   even  an   earlier  date ;  he  says  they  were 
called  Cyclopia,  as  having  been  the  work  of  the  Cyclops6;     cychpt*. 
it  being  usual  to  attribute  to  a  race  of  men  who,  from  their 
power,  were   considered  by  after-ages  as  giants,   any  result 
of  extraordinary    labour7.     The   beauties    of   the   scenery, 
and  the  interesting  nature  of  the  country,  had  detained  us  so 
long,  that  we  did  not  reach  Nauplia  until  the  gates  were     NavPua. 
shut8;  and  there  was  no  possibility  of  causing  a  request  to 
be  conveyed  to  the  Governor  for  their  being  opened ;  neither 
Would  any  attention  have  been  paid  to  such  our  petition, 
if  it  had  been  made.     The  worst  of  the  scrape  was,   that 
all  our  beds  and  baggage,  being  with  the  sumpter-horses 
and  guides,   had  already  entered  the  town  before  the  gates 

had 


(6)  'E^>f£>/c  cf  rjj  Noi/TrX/a  rd  <nrt}\ata,  rat  ol  iv  civtois  otKocofiqrol  Xafitfpivdoi' 
KTKAQIIAEIA  c   ovojxd&vaiv.     Strabon.  Geog.  lib.  viii.  p.  566.  ed.  Oxon. 

(7)  "  Cyclopia  autem  dicta  haec  videntur,  ob  magnitudine :  '  nam,'  inquit  vetus 
Papinii  interpres  (ad  Theb.  1.  i.  ver.  251.)  '  auicquid  magnitudine  sua  nolile  est, 
Cyclopum  manu  dicitur  faMcatum.'  Vid.  Annot.  Casaub.  in  Strabon.  Geog.  lib.  viii. 
p.  536.  (4.)  edit.  Oxon.  1807 . 

(8)  Mr.  Geil  makes  the  distance  from  Ligurib  to  Nauplia  live  hours  and  forty-eight 
minutes  3  not  quite  equal  to  sixteen  miles  English.  See  Win.  of  Greece,  p.  101.  Lond. 
1810. 


;*.-'," 


638  NAUPLIA. 

chap.  xv.  had  been  closed.  There  seemed,  therefore,  to  be  no  other 
alternative  but  that  of  ending  a  long  day  of  entire  fasting 
without  any  hope  of  nourishment,  and  with  the  certainty  of 
passing  the  rest  of  the  night  houseless  in  the  suburbs  of 
Nanplia.  After  some  time,  the  Tchohadar  found  a  miserable 
shed,  whose  owner  he  compelled  to  provide  a  few  boards  for 
us  to  sit  upon  ;  but  neither  the  offers  of  money,  nor  Ibrahim's 
boasted  resource  of  fiagellattony  from  which  we  found  it 
almost  impossible  to  restrain  him,  availed  any  thing  towards 
bettering  either  our  lodging  or  our  fare.  Weary,  cold,  and 
comfortless,  we  remained  counting  the  moments  until  the 
morning ;  without  fire,  without  light,  without  rest,  without 
food:  but  the  consciousness  of  being  upon  terra  fir  ma  y  and 
that  we  were  not  exposed,  as  we  had  often  been,  under  cir- 
cumstances of  equal  privation,  to  the  additional  horrors  of  a 
tempestuous  sea,  made  our  situation  comparatively  good, 
and  taught  us  to  be  thankful. 

As  soon  as  day-light  appeared,  the  worthy  Consul, 
Mr.  Victor  Dalmar,  who  had  received  our  baggage,  and  was 
uneasy  for  the  safety  of  his  expected  guests,  caused  the 
gates  to  be  opened  rather  earlier  than  usual  \  The  Governor, 
to  whom  he  had  made  application,  sent  orders  to  the  gate, 
desiring  to  see  us.  We  begged  to  decline  this  honour, 
pleading  our  fatigue  and  indisposition  as  an  apology  for  not 
waiting  upon  him ;  but  sent  the  Tchohadar  as  our  repre- 
sentative. 


(l)  "  The  Turks  suspend  a  sabre  over  the  gateway,  as  a  memorial  that  the  pla<i» 
was  taken  by  assault."     Squire's  MS.  Correspondence. 


N  AU  PL  I  A. 

sentative.     Ibrahim,  having  put  on  his  fur  pelisse,  and  a  fine 
tall  calpack  with  a  turban   of  white  muslin,  looked  like  a 
Vizier,  and  quite  as  respeetable  as  any  Pasha  of  three  tails 
throughout    the    Grand   Signior's    dominions.      When    we 
arrived  at   the  Consul's  house,  we  found  sitting   in  a  little 
hot  close  room,  smelling  most  unpleasantly  of  stale  tobacco 
fumes,  a  short  corpulent  man,  about  fifty  years  of  age,  who 
began    talking  to  us  very  loud,  as  people  often   do   with 
foreigners,  believing  them  to  be  deaf:    he  announced  himself 
to  us  as  our  host ;    and,  from  the  appearance  of  everything 
around  him,  we  expected  indifferent  accommodation.  In  this 
however,  we  were  mistaken  :   we  were  shewn  to  some  rooms 
lately  whitewashed ;    the  chambers  of  the  Consul's  house,  as 
usual,  surrounding  a  court,  and  communicating  with  each 
other  by  means  of  a  gallery.     In  these  rooms  there  was  not  a 
single  article  of  furniture ;  but  they  were  clean,  and  we  were 
able  to  spread  our  matrasses  upon  the  floor;  and  soon  found 
ourselves  comfortably  lodged  in  as  hospitable  a  mansion  as  any 
in  all  Greece;   our  benevolent  host  contriving  everything  for 
our  welcome,  and  endeavouring  to  prolong  our  stay  as  much 
as  possible.    After  we  had  taken  a  little  rest,  we  were  roused 
by  the  firing  of  Turkish  cannon  in  the  Citadel ;  and  Ibrahim, 
returning  from  his  mission,  brought  the  Governor's  message 
to  the  Consul,  informing  him  that  he  had  just  received  from 
Stambol  (Constantinople)  intelligence  of  the  expulsion  of  the 
French  from  Egypt ;  and  that  he  had  orders  from  his  Govern- 
ment to  make  it  publickly  known.    We  were  shewn  a  copy  of 
the  Takhrir,  or  official  note,  the  only  Turkish  Gazette  we  had    Turkish 

Gazette. 

ever  seen,  announcing  an  event  nearly  a  quarter  of  a  year 

after 


House  of  the 
Consul. 


i****7 


640 


CHAP.  XV. 


Public 
Rejoicings. 


Athletes. 


PELOPONNESUS. 

after  it  had  happened.    It  was  in  manuscript,  and  Mr.  Dalmar 
translated  it  for  us.  The  nature  of  the  intelligence  was  curious 
enough  :  it  set  forth,  after  a  long  pompous  preamble,    that 
"  public  rejoicings  were  to  be  held  throughout  the  Ottoman  Em- 
pire for  the  deliverance  of(Misr)  Egypt  from  the  hands  of  cursed 
Infidels  forsaken  of  God,  owing  to  the  bravery  and  prudence  of 
Hussein  Fasha  and  of  the  troops  belonging  to    the  Sublime 
Porte  of  solid  glory ,  led  on  by  their  great  Prophet"  &c.  £s?c. 
The  only  mention  made  of  any  obligation  to  Great  Britain 
was  tagged  on  in  the  form  of  a  postscript,    merely  stating 
that  "  the  English  Djowrs  (Infidels)  had  acted  friendly  upon 
the  occasion."     Thus  the  deliverance  of  Egypt,  purchased  at 
the  price  of  British  blood,  and  for  which  Abercrombie  died, 
throughout  the  immense   empire  of  Turkey  was  ascribed 
to  a  dastardly   banditti,   who    were   idle   spectators   of  the 
contest,   encumbering  rather  than  aiding  the  operations  of 
our  armies. 

The  rejoicings  at  Nauplia  began  immediately :  they 
consisted  of  an  irregular  discharge  of  small  artillery  most 
wretchedly  managed,  and  the  exhibition  of  athletic  sports 
before  the  Governor's  windows ;  followed  afterwards  by  a 
few  bad  fireworks,  displayed  without  any  effect,  by  day-light. 
The  Athletce  were  principally  wrestlers.  We  saw  two  of 
them  advance  into  the  arena  where  the  combat  was  to  take 
place  :  they  came  hand  in  hand,  capering  and  laughing  as  if 
highly  gratified  by  the  opportunity  of  shewing  their  skill  : 
presently  they  put  themselves  into  various  attitudes,  and  began 
to  make  faces  at  each  other.  These  men  afforded  a  perfect 
representation  of  the   antient  IlaX^,  the  oldest  of  all  the 

exercises. 


■ 


NAUPLIA.1 


641 


CHAP.  XV. 


exercises1.     They  wore  tight  leather  breeches  well  soaked  in 
oil;  in  other  respects  their  bodies  were  stark  naked,  except 
being  anointed  with  oil2,  and  rubbed  over  with  dust5.     To 
pain  the  victory,  it  was  necessary  not  only  that  one  of  the 
combatants  should  throw  the  other,  but  that,  having  thrown 
him,  he  should  be  able  to  keep  his  adversary  lying  upon  his 
back  until  he,  the  conqueror,  regained  his  feet ;    for  in  the 
struggle   they   always   fell   together4.      We   had    also   the 
satisfaction  of  seeing  that  most  antient  military  dance  the 
Pyrrhica,  as  it  had  perhaps  existed  in  Greece  from  the  time  of    Fyrri&m 
its  introduction  by  the  Son  of  Achilles,  or  by  the  Corybantes. 
In  fact,  it  was  a  Spartan  dance,   and  therefore  peculiarly 
appropriate  at  a  neighbouring  Nauplian  festival.     It  consisted 
of  men  armed  with  sabres  and  shields,  who  came  forward 
in  a  kind  of  broad-sword  exercise,  exhibiting   a  variety  of 
martial  evolutions  to  the  sound  of  Turkish  flutes.      Such 
amusements  and  customs  are  never  likely  to  be  discontinued 
in  any  country,  so  long  as  any  portion  of  the  original  inhabi- 
tants remains :  indeed,  they  often  continue  to  exist  when  a  new 

race 


(1)  Even  the  origin  of  its  name,  IlaXt/,  is  uncertain.  Virgil  derives  the  exercise 
from  the  Trojans,  ^En.  lib.iu.  280. 

"  Actiaque  Iliads  celebraams  littora  ludis." 

(2)  "  Exercent  patrias  oleo  labente  palaestras 

Nudati  socii." Ibid.  281. 

(3)  Fid.  Ovid.  Met.  ix.  35.  Stat.  Theb.  vi.  846.  Lucian.  de  Gymn.  p.270.  Among 
the  Antients,  the  dust  for  the  wrestlers  was  kept  in  a  particular  place.  Plutarch. 
Sympos.  II.  Probl.  4.  p.  638.     C.  Vitruv.  V.  11.     Leisner's  Notes  to  Bos. 

(4)  The  same  rule,  according  to  Mr.  Thornton,  is  observed  in  other  parts  of  Turkey. 
(See  Thorntons  Turkey,  vol.  II.  p.  207 .  Lond.  I8O9.)  In  antient  wrestling,  the  prize 
was  obtained  by  throwing  an  adversary  three  times. 

VOL.  III.  4  N 


ff*f& 


CHAP.  XV. 


Population. 


64C2  PELOPONNESUS. 

race  has  succeeded  to  the  old  inhabitants;  being  adopted 
by  their  successors  l. 

The  population  of  Nauplia  consisted  of  two  thousand 
persons  at  the  time  of  our  arrival.  The  plague  had  raged 
during  three  successive  years,  and  had  carried  off  six 
thousand  of  its  inhabitants.  When  free  from  this  scourge, 
it    is    a  very   unhealthy   place,   the  people    being  attacked 

Bad  Ai.-.  annually   with  a   malaria  fever.     The  few  merchants   who 

reside  here  have  generally  country-houses,  and  leave  the 
town  in  the  summer  months.  The  night  we  had  passed  in 
the  suburb  exposed  us  to  an  attack  of  this  kind  ;  the  author 
having  caught  the  fever,  and  all  our  party  being  in  a  certain 
degree  affected  by  the  unwholesome  air.  The  only  remedy 
is  the  red  Peruvian  bark  ;  but  it  must  be  administered  in  very 
powerful  doses.  A  traveller  in  Greece  should  consider  this 
medicine  as  absolutely  necessary  to  his  existence,  and  never 

Commerce.  journey  unprovided2.  The  commerce  of  Naiiplia  has  been  for 
some  time  upon  the  decline.  The  exports  are  oil,  spunges, 
and  wine.  Formerly,  the  produce  of  the  Morea  for  expor- 
tation, in  the  first  of  these  articles  alone,  (and  almost  all  of  it 
wrent  from  Nauplia,)  amounted,  in  a  good  year,  to  one  million 
of  Turkish  quilots :  even  now,  if  the  crops  have  not  been 
deficient,  the  produce  of  Corinth,  Misitra,  Nauplia,  Argos,  &c. 

is 


(1)  All  the  invasions  and  conquests  to  which  our  island  has  been  liable,  during  nine- 
teen centuries,  have  not  abolished  the  rites  of  the  Misletoe;  and  some  of  the  games  of 
the  earliest  inhabitants-  of  Great  Britain  are  still  practised  in  the  country. 

(2)  Perhaps  the  arsenic  solution,  called  "  tasteless  ague  drops,"  might  prove  even  a 
more  potent  remedy;  and  it  would  be  more  portable,  owing  to  the  small  quantity  of 
arsenic  necessary  in  its  preparation. 


N  A  U  P  L  I  A. 


643 


is  sufficient  for  the  freightage  of  twenty-fire  vessels.  A  barrel  tCHAP- xv- 
of  fine  oil  sells  here  for  twenty-six  or  twenty-eight  piastres; 
each  barrel  containing  forty-eight  okes.  The  other  exports  of 
the  Morea,  from  this  port,  are  Yelani  acorns,  vermilion, 
and  wine,  of  which  a  great  quantity  is  made,  the  soil  of  the 
Peninsula  being  particularly  favourable  to  vineyards.  The 
people  of  Nauplia  were  early  renowned  for  the  cultivation 
of  the  vine  :  they  formerly  worshipped,  as  an  idol,  an  asss 
head ;  because  that  animal,  by  browsing  the  vines,  taught 
them  the  art  of  pruning3.  Very  excellent  oil  is  made  at 
Mitylene,  whence  a  considerable  quantity  comes  to  Nauplia 
to  be  exported.  They  receive  also  from  Misitra  forty  or  fifty 
thousand  okes  of  silk  ;  and  this  is  of  three  sorts  or  qualities  : 
the  finest  is  called  (o\f/s)  Opsc ;  the  second  sort,  Karatch  ketni 
litchi ;  and  the  third,  Kassagico4.  There  is  perhaps  no  place 
in  Greece  where  the  anticnt  medals  of  the  country  may  be 
purchased  in  greater  number,  or  found  in  a  higher  state  of 
perfection,  than  at  Nauplia.  We  obtained  here  the  oldest 
silver  medals  of  Corinth,  of  yJrgos,  of  Dorium,  in  Messenia, 
and  of  JEgina.  Old  Roman  copper  coins  might  be  had 
literally  by  the  handful.  Silver  medals  of  the  Achaian League, 
with  the  head  of  Jupiter,  laurelled,  in  front,  and  the  mono- 
gram /£\  on  the  obverse  side,  were  very  common.  Upon  the 
oldest  Corinthian  silver,  the  head  of  Pallas  was  represented, 

within 


(3)  Vid.  Pausan.  in  Corinthiac.  c.  38.  p.  201.     Lips,  16q6. 

(4)  We  cannot  pretend  to  accuracy  in  writing  these  words  j.  they  are  merely  an 
adaptation  of  the  letters  of  our  alphabet  to  sounds,  as  they  seemed  to  be  uttered.  The 
Karatch  is  a  capitation  tax,  levied  upon  Greeks  and  Jews ;  and  possibly  the  second 
sort  of  silk  may  be  the  result  of  such  a  tax  taken  in  kind. 


644  'PELOPONNESUS. 

chap.  xv.  within  an  indented  square;  or  the  figure  of  a  flying  Pegasus 
with  the  wings  curved  towards  the  head,  and  beneath 
the  animal  the  Phoenician  letter  Q.  Koph.  Some,  upon  their 
obverse  sides,  exhibited  only  the  indented  square,  divided 
into  four  parts,  with  a  grain  in  each. 
Gipsies.  We  had  not  seen  any  Gipsies  since  we  left  Russia ;  but 

we  found  this  people  in  Nauplia,  under  the  name  they  bear 
in  Moldavia,  of  Tchinganehs.     How  they  came  hither,  no  one 
knew;  but  the  march  of  their  ancestors  from  the  north  of  India 
to  Europe,  so  lately  as  the  beginning  of  the  fifteenth  century, 
will  account  for  their  not  being  found  farther  towards  the 
south ;  and  this  is  now  so  well  ascertained,  that  no  one  would 
expect  to  meet  a  Gipsy  upon  any  of  the  southern  shores  of  the 
Mediterranean.    To  have  found  them  in   the  Peloponnesus 
is  rather  remarkable,  considering  that  their  whole  tribe,  at 
the  first,  did  not  exceed  half  a  million:  and  this  number  has 
subsequently  much  diminished.    Their  progress  towards  this 
peninsula  may  have  been  through  Bulgaria,  Thrace,  and  the 
other  northern  parts  of  Greece,  from  Moldavia,  Transylvania, 
and  Wallachia,  where  they  are  numerous,  and  find  employ- 
ment  in   collecting  gold  from   the  alluvial  deposit   of  the 
rivers.     Through  the  same  countries  they  may  have  reached 
Asia  Minor ;  but  we  believe  that  the  Morea  has  been   the 
ultimate  of  their  journey  towards  the  south,  since  the  period 

of  their  first  migration1. 

The 


(1)  Beauj our  mentions  them  as  forming  part  of  the  population  of  Salonica,  under 
the  name  of  Tchinghenais.  Tableau  de  la  Coram,  de  la  Grece,  torn.  I.  p.  53^ 
Paris,  1800. 


NAUPLI  A. 


645 


The  streets  of  Nauplia  are  as  they  probably  existed  in  the  .chap.xv. 
time  of  Pausanias;  narrow,  dark,  and  dirty.  It  is  mentioned 
both  by  Xenophon'1  and  by  Euripides3;  but  its  antient  name  of 
Nauplia  is  now  corrupted  by  the  Italians  into  Napoli  di  Ro- 
mania. The  high  and  abrupt  mountain  upon  which  the  Acro- 
polis is  situated,  still  retains  the  name  of  the  hero  Palamedes, 
son  of  Nauplius,  in  the  appellation Palamedi.  There  is  nothing 
remarkable  in  the  town  itself,  excepting  its  situation ;  and  this, 
like  the  site  of  many  other  Grecian  cities,  borrows  from  Nature 
some  of  her  grandest  features,  each  disposition  of  them  being 
at  the  same  time  distinguished  by  something  peculiar  to  itself. 
Athens,  Argos,  Nauplia,  Corinth,  and  many  more,  had  each     characteristic 

-  features  of 

their  lofty  citadel,  with  its  dependent  burgh,  and  fertile  Grecian  cities. 
plain :  in  this  they  resembled  each  other  ;  but  in  certain 
characteristics  they  all  differ.  Athens  appears  as  a  forsaken 
habitation  of  holiness:  for  a  moment,  unmindful  of  the 
degrading  character  of  its  Divinities,  the  spectator  views 
with  a  degree  of  awe  its  elevated  shrines,  surrounded  on 
every  side  by  a  mountain  barrier,  inclosing  the  whole 
district  as  within  one  consecrated  Peribolus.  Argos,  with 
less  of  a  priestly  character,  but  equal  in  dignity,  sits 
enthroned  as  the  mistress  of  the  seas  :  facing  the  sun's  most 
powerful  beams,  she  spreads  her  flowery  terraces,  on  either 
side,    before    the    lucid    bosom    of    the   waters    in    regal 

majesty. 


(2)  Xenophont.  Hellenic,  lib.  iv.  Annot.  Forst.  in  Strabon.  lib.  ix.  p.  535.  ed.  Oxon, 

(3)  Euripides  in  Oreste,  ver.  53.     Ibid. 

"H«t  ydp  sis  y*jv  Mcy/At^c  T^oo/ac  awo, 
Aifxha   £t  ~Nav7r\itiov  tKifki)puv  irkdry, 
"AK-aiaiv  opfAti,  ...i  — ..  . 


SHW^S^iA'. 


f?l$JZf  ^•ff-*- 


646 


PELOPONNESUS. 


chap.  xv.  majesty.  Nauplia,  stretching  out  upon  a  narrow  tongue  of 
land,  and  commanded  by  impregnable  heights,  rich  in  the 
possession  of  her  port,  "  the  most  secure  and  best  defended 
in  the  Morea1,"  but  depending  always  upon  Argos  for 
supplies,  was  fitted,  by  every  circumstance  of  natural  form, 
to  become  a  mercantile  city,  and  the  mart  of  Grecian  com- 
merce. Corinth,  the  Gibraltar  of  the  Peloponnesus,  by  its 
very  nature  &  fortress,  is  marked  by  every  facility  that  may 
conduce  to  military  operations,  or  render  it  conspicuous  for 
its  ivarlike  aspect.  In  every  part  of  Greece  there  is  some- 
thing naturally  appropriate  to  the  genius  and  the  history  of 
the  place ;  as  in  the  bubbling  fountains  and  groves  of 
Epidauria,  sacred  to  JEsculaphis ;  the  pastoral  scenes  of 
Arcadia,  dedicated  to  the  Muses  and  to  Pan ;  the  hollow 
rocks  of  Phocis,  echoing  to  Pythian  oracles;  and  perhaps 
the  custom  of  making  offerings  to  all  the  Gods,  upon  the 
summits  of  Olympus  and  Parnassus,  did  not  so  much 
originate  in  any  Eastern  practice,  as  in  the  peculiar  facility 
wherewith  the  eye  commanded  from  those  eminences  almost 
every  seat  of  sanctity  in  Greece2. 

On 


(1)  Chandler's  Trav.  in  Greece,  p.  227.     Oxf.  1/70. 

(2)  The  old  Grecian  cu3tom  of  uttering  the  Kvpts  l\itjrrov  ("  Lord  have  mercy  npoi 
Us  /")  and  making  sign  of  reverence  upon  coming  in  sight  of  any  place  of  worship,  « 
still  retained  among  Greek  Christians,  but  particularly  in  Russia  :  the  Russians  us; 
the  same  expression  literally  translated,  "  Ghospodi  pomilui!  "  As  the  practice  enjoinec 
reverence  to  every  particular  shrine,  it  must  necessarily  become  a  general  homage  t< 
all  the  Divinities,  when  temples  belonging  to  all  the  Gods  where  rendered  visible  a 
the  same  time,  with  as  much  ease,  and  more  strikingly,  than  churches  become  con- 
spicuous to  the  common  people,  who,  in  every  Christian  country,  frequently  emploj 
themselves  in  counting  them  from  the  tops  of  their  hills.     Perhaps  this  may  explain  th( 

beoinninc 


FROM  NAUPLIA  TO  TIRYNS. 


647 


On  Wednesday,  November  the  ninth,  we  left  Nauplia, 
accompanied  by  the  two  sons  of  Mr.  Dalmar,  to  visit  the 
remains  of  Tiryns3,  and  thence  proceed  to  Argos,  Mucence, 
and  Nemddyin.  our  way  to  Sicyon  and  Corinth.  The  lofty 
Citadel  of  Palamedi  towered  above  us,  on  our  right  hand. 
We  passed  several  gardens,  and  some  pleasing  kiosks,  or 
summer-houses,  situated  near  the  town.  The  wralls  of 
Tiryns  are  not  more  than  an  English  mile  and  a  half  Tiryns. 
distant  from  Nauplia;  or  half  an  hour,  according  to  the 
Turkish  mode  of  reckoning4.  The  sight  of  them,  in  a 
moment,  carried  our  reflections  back  to  the  most  distant  ages 
of  history  :  we  seemed,  in  fact,  to  be  once  more  among  the 
Ruins  of  Memphis.     By  whomsoever  they  were  built 5,  they 

are 


CHAP.  xv. 


beginning  of  those  offerings  to  all  the  Gods  which  were  made  by  the  Antient  Greeks 
upon  the  summits  of  their  mountains;  rather  than  the  ridiculous  notion  of  being  nearer 
to  their  Divinities.  The  first  temples  were  tombs;  and  these  were  not  upon  the  tops  of 
mountains,  but  in  the  plains  below,  near  to  the  cities  and  public  roads :  therefore,  by- 
going  to  the  summits  of  mountains,  they,  in  fact,  went  farther  from  their  Gods.  This 
suggestion  is,  however,  only  made  with  reference  to  Polytheism,  and  to  the  nature  of 
the  offering  :  the  worshippers  of  one  God,  as  we  learn  from  Herodotus,  with  regard  to 
the  Persians  who  built  no  temples,  chose  tha  tops  of  the  highest  hills  and  mountains 
for  their  places  of  worship.  {Herodot.  Hist,  lib.i.)  Strabo  also  observes  of  them, 
that  they  had  neither  images  nor  altars,  but  paid  their  adoration  upon  some  high  place. 
(Strabon.  Geog.  lib.  xv.)  Cyrus  having  had  a  dream,  forewarning  him  of  his 
approaching  death,  sacrificed  upon  the  summit  of  a  mountain.  {Vid.  Xenophon.  lib.  viii.) 
The  inhabitants  of  Pontus  and  Cappadocia  practised  the  same  kind  of  worship. 
{Appian.  lib.  de  bdlo  Mithrid.  p.  366.) 

(3)  Mcrot  ci  XctKEcaluova  tt6\ic-  lcxtiv  ''APrOS,  teal  iv  uvrij  NATTTIAIA  noXtr, 
teal  \i/u>jy.  'Ev  usaoyeiq  ci  KAEP.NAI,  kcu  MXKHNAI,  kcu  TIPTN0A.  Scylacis 
Caryandensis  Perbius,  p.  43.     L.  Bat.  1697. 

(4)  See  Gell's  Itinerary  of  Greece.     Lond.  1810. 

(5)  It  is  said  by  Strabo,  Pausanias,  and  other  historians,  that  the  walls  of  Tiryns 
were  built  by  the  Cyclops,  the  same  persons  to  whom  Strabo  ascribes  the  origin  of  the 

Nauplia?i 


648 


PELOPONNESUS. 


Celtic  and 
Phoenician 
Architecture 


chap.  xv.  are  decidedly  of  Egyptian  origin,  and  one  of  the  greatest 
curiosities  in  all  Greece.  The  coming  of  an  Egyptian  colony 
to  this  part  of  Peloponnesus,  about  fifteen  centuries  before 
our  gera,  is  a  fact  attested  by  the  highest  authority  of  written 
testimony1 ;  but  there  is  something  in  the  style  of  the  archi- 
tecture here,  which,  when  compared  with  other  remains  of 
a  similar  nature,  and  added  to  a  few  historical  facts,  seems 
rather  to  prove  it  of  Celtic,  than  of  Egyptian  origin.  We 
purposely  avoid  entering  into  any  detailed  description  of 
the  dimensions  of  this  gigantic  building,  because  a  most 
faithful  delineator  has  already  anticipated  whatever  we  might 
have  said  upon  the  subject.  To  his  work  we  must  therefore 
refer  the  Reader2;  merely  stating  of  the  walls  of  the  Citadel, 
that,  with  the  exception  of  the  interior  structure  of  the  Pyr- 
amids, a  more  marvellous  result  of  human  labour  has  not  been 
found  upon  earth.  The  Celts  have  left  in  Great  Britain  a 
surprising  specimen  of  the  Cyclopean  style  in  architecture  : 
and  it  may  be  said  of  their  temple  at  Stonehenge,  that  it  has 
all  the  marks  of  a  Phoenician  building3:   hence  a  conclus.on 


misrht 


Nauplian  Caves.  Of  the  Cyclops  nothing  certain  is  known.  They  were  supposel  to 
be  the  sons  of  Coclus  and  Terra;  and  this  notion  is  enough  to  prove  that  all  concening 
their  history  is  involved  in  fable.  There  were  no  less  than  three  distinct  races  of  nen 
who  bore  this  appellation.  (Vid.  Casaubon.  Annot.  in  Strabon.  lib.  viii.)  Some  illu- 
sion to  the  builders  of  Tiryns  will  be  again  introduced  in  the  next  Chapter. 

(1)  A$   OX  NATS  riENTHKONTA  KXinHN   ES  AIFTnTOT 
EI2  THN  EAAAAA  EIIAErSE,   k.  t.  X. 

Vid.  Chronicon  ex  Marmor.  Arundel.  Epoch  ix. 

(2)  See  Gell's  Itinerary  of  Greece,  pp.  54,  55,  56,  5"],  58.     Plates  xv.  xvi.  :vii. 
Loud.  1810. 

(3)  Stonehenge  might  be  considered  as  a  Phoenician  building,  from  its  resembhnce 
to  the  style  of  the  architecture  observed  upon  the  eastern  shores  of  the  Mediterranan, 

aided 


TIRYNS. 


649 


might  be  deduced,  that  the  Celts  were  originally  Phoenicians, 
or   that  they  have    left  in    Pkoenice    monuments    of  their 
former  residence  in   that  country.     If  it  be  asked,  in  what 
region    of  the    globe   a    taste   originated    for   the    kind    of 
architecture  termed  by  the  Greeks  Cyclope,an\  perhaps  the 
answer  may  be,  that  it  was  cradled  in  the  Caves  of  India; 
for  many  of  these,  either  partly  natural,  or  wholly  artificial, 
whether   originally  sepulchres,    temples,    or   habitations,   it 
matters    not,  are   actually  existing  archetypes  of  a  style  of 
building   yet  recognised   over  all  the  western   world,  even 
to  the  borders  of  the  Atlantic  ocean  :  and  the  traveller  who 
is  accustomed   to  view    these   Cyclopean  labours,  however 
differing  in  their  ages,   beholds  in  them  as  it  were  a  series 
of  family  resemblances,  equally  conspicuous  in  the  caverns 
of  Elephanta,    the    ruins    of  Persepolis,   the  sepulchres   of 
Syria  and  of  Asia  Minor,  the  remains  of  the   most  antient 
cities  in  Greece  and  Italy,  such  as  Tiryns  and  Crotona,  and 

the 


CHAP.  XV. 


Origin  of  the 

Cyclopean 

style. 


added  to  the  knowledge  we  hare  of  Phoenician  settlements  upon  our  south-western 
coasts :  but  the  same  kind  of  building  exists  in  the  northern  parts  of  our  island,  and  in 
Ireland,  and  may  be  noticed  over  all  the  territories  of  the  Bel  gee  and  Cimbri.  Having 
accidentally  alluded  to  this  remarkable  structure,  it  would  be  worse  than  mere  omission 
to  avoid  noticing  an  observation  concerning  it  by  that  learned  antiquary  R.  P.  Knight, 
Esq.  as  founded  upon  a  fragment  of  the  writings  of  Hhcatjeus.  "  From  a  passage 
of  Hecatceus,  preserved  by  Diodorus  Siculus,  I  think  it  is  evident  that  Stonehenge,  and 
all  the  other  monuments  of  the  same  kind  found  in  the  North,  belonged  to  the  same 
religion,  which  appears,  at  some  remote  period,  to  have  prevailed  over  the  whole 
northern  hemisphere.  According  to  the  same  historian,  the  Hyperboreans  inhabited  an 
island  beyond  Gaul,  as  large  as  Sicily,  in  which  A  olio  was  worshipped  in  a  circular 
temple  considerable  for  its  size  and  riches." 

(4)  See  a  former  Note  upon  the  application  of  this  term  among  the  Greek  writers. 
VOL.  III.  4  o 


HHH  m&  P8j$&  spg 


History  of 
Tiryns. 


PELOPONNESUS. 

the  more  northern  monuments  of  the  Celts,  as  in  the 
temples  called  Druidical;  especially  that  of  Stonehenge, 
in  the  south  of  England.  The  destruction  of  Tiryns  is  of 
such  remote  antiquity,  that  its  walls  existed  nearly  as 
they  do  at  present  in  the  earliest  periods  of  Grecian 
history.  iElian  says  its  inhabitants  fed  upon  wild  Jigs1 , 
and  the  Arcadians  upon  acorns2.  The  Argives  laid  waste 
the  city,  and  removed  its  inhabitants  to  their  own  capital. 
Pausanias,  by  whom  this  is  mentioned3,  makes  frequent 
allusion  to  its  marvellous  walls4,  considered  by  him  not 
less  entitled  than  the  Pyramids  of  Egypt  to  rank  among 
the  wonders  of  the  antient  world5.  The  prodigious 
masses  of  which  they  consist  were  put  together  without 
cement ;  and  they  are  likely  to  brave  the  attacks  of 
time  through  ages  even  more  numerous  than  those  which 
have  already  elapsed  since  they  were  built.  Owing  to  its 
walls,  the  city  is  celebrated  in  the  poems  of  Homer 6;  and 
the  satisfaction  of  seeing  an  example  of  the  military 
architecture  of  the  heroic  ages,  as  it  was  beheld  by  him,  is 

perhaps 


(1)  This  is  rather  an  argument  for  their  ./Egyptian  origin;  for  by  the  wild  Jig  is 
probably  intended  the  Ficus  Sycomorus,  the  fruit  of  which  is  still  eaten  in  Egypt.  We 
did  not,  however,  notice  this  tree  in  Greece. 

(2)  jElian.  Hist.  Var.  lib.  Hi.  c.  39. 

(3)  'Aptarr)crav  ct  ical  TipvvQiour;  Apyetoi,  <rvvoiicov<;  vpotrKafttLv,  teat  to  ''Apyu^ 
*7ravt,t)orat  OeXfauvrer.     Pausan.  Corinth,  c.  26.  p.  169.    Lips.  l6g6. 

(4)  Vid.  Pausan.  in  Achaic.  c.25.  p.  5S9.  in  Boeotic.  c.  36.  p./33,  &c.  Lips.  1696. 

(5)  La  rti-^Tj  Tit  tv  TipviOt  ovdo  cVt  ftpaxy  i/yayov  piv^py]^,  ovci  oyra  iXdrrovoi 
Oavp-aTor.    Ibid.  p.  783.    Boeotic.  c.  36.     Lips.  1696. 

(6)  0<  B'"Apyos  t   tlypv,  Tipvvdd  tc  Tei^idttTtrav. 

Iliad,  ft.  vcr.559. 


TIRYNS. 


651 


perhaps  only  granted  to  the  moderns  in  this  single  instance. 
They  have  remained  nearly  in  their  present  state  above 
three  thousand  years.  It  is  believed  that  they  were  erected 
long  before  the  Trojan  war :  as  to  the  precise  period, 
chronologists  are  so  little  agreed  with  regard  even  to  the 
arrival  of  the  Phoenician  and  Egyptian  colonies  under  Cadmus 
and  Danans,  that  a  difference  of  at  least  a  century  may  be 
observed  in  their  calculations7.  The  celebrity  of  their 
Citadel  is  almost  all  that  is  now  known  of  the  Tirynthians, 
excepting  their  natural  tendency  to  mirth  and  frivolity.  If 
we  may  rely  upon  an  anecdote  cited  by  the  Abbe 
Barthelemy8  from  Athenams9,  in  their  characteristic  dispo- 
sition they  were  nearly  allied  to  the  Parisians  of  the  present 
day  ;  and,  for  want  of  a  better  argument,  the  Members  of 
the  French  Academy  may  recur  to  the  story,  in  support 
of  a  very  probable  truth ;  namely,  that  the  Tirynthians 
and  the  Gauls  were  only  earlier  and  later  scions  of  the  same 
Indo-Europcean  stock.  Such  was  their  remarkable  levity, 
that  the  most  serious  and  important  concerns  served  among 
them  merely  to  give  a  turn  to  a  bon  mot.  At  last,  even  Jim 
became  a  bore ;  and  they  applied  to  the  Oracle  of  Delphi,  to 

be 


CHAP.  XV. 


Character  of 
the  Tiryn- 
thians. 


(7)  The  Editor  of  the  Chronicle  improperly  called  Parian  (which  we  stated  to 
have  been  found  in  Ceos)  dates  the  coming  of  Cadmus  to  Thebes  1519  years  before 
Christ :  but  he  adds,  in  a  Note,  "  Diodorus  and  Eusebius  make  Danaus  go  into  Greece, 
before  Cadmus  went  in  search  of  Europa.  Diod.  Sie.  lib.  v.  p.  32Q.  Our  chronologer 
places  Cadmus  eight  years  before  Danaus."  (See  p.  25.  Lond.  1/88.)  Other9  date  the 
arrival  of  Cadmus  1493  before  Christ. 

(8)  Voyage  du  Jeune  Anacharsis,  torn.  iv.  p.  349.    a  Paris,  if  go. 

(9)  Theophr.  ap.  Athen.  lib.  vi.  c.  17.  p.  26l.  Eustath.  in  Odyss.  lib.  xviii. 
p.  1839.  lin.4/. 


«3B*ff. 


652 


CHAP.  XV. 


TIRYNS. 

be  delivered  from  the  ennui  of  its  perpetual  recurrence. 
The  answer  of  the  Oracle  put  them  to  a  trial,  which  only 
served  to  render  their  natural  character  the  more  conspi- 
cuous :  it  promised  relief,  upon  condition,  that,  after  having 
gravely  sacrificed  a  bull  to  Neptune,  they  should  as  gravely 
cast  it  into  the  sea.  For  this  purpose  the  Tirynthians 
assembled  upon  the  shore  ;  taking  especial  care  to  prevent  the 
juvenile  members  of  their  society  from  being  present  at  the 
solemnity.  A  young  pickle,  however,  made  his  way  into 
the  crowd ;  and  finding  they  were  eager  to  drive  him  from 
the  ceremony,  exclaimed,  ((  Are  ye  then  afraid  lest  I  should 
swallow  your  bull?"  The  words  were  no  sooner  uttered, 
than  a  general  roar  of  laughter  burst  from  the  whole 
assembly;  and  being  thus  persuaded  of  their  incurable  dis- 
position, they  submitted  to  their  destiny. 


CHAP.  XVI. 


PELOPONNESUS. 

Further  inquiry  into  the  Origin  of  Tiryns — Road  to  Argos —  River 

Inachus  —  Plants  and  Minerals — Argos — Terra-cotta  FaSes — 
Ignorance  of  their  Sepulchral  use — Hecate's  Supper — Lectisternium 
— Probable  cause  of  depositing  Earthen' Vessels  in  Sepulchres — 
Origin  of  the  custom — Population  of  Argos — Antiquities — Theatre 
— Hieron  of  Venus  —  Diras  — Cyclopea  —  Alcyonian  Lake  — 
Oracular  Shrine — Other  remains  of  the  city — Character  of  the 
antient  Argives — View  of  the  Argive  Plain  —  Fabulous  Contest 
between  Neptune  and  Juno  —  Hieron  of  Ceres  Mysias — Antiquity 
of  fictile  materials  in  building — Mycenae — State  of  the  Ruins  — 
Extraordinary  Sepulchre — not  the  Treasury  of  Atreus — Heroum 
of  Perseus-  -Sophocles — internal  evidence  of  his  having  visited  the 
spot — of  the  A-opa  and  U^oTrvXaicc — Tomb  of  Agamemnon  — 
Interior  oj  the  Tumulus — Enormous  lintel — Use  of  the  triangular 

cavity 


V.-WS 


3K9I9R9H9  RB^BQI  RhSH^^hIh         I  "■r^ 


654 


PELOPONNESUS. 


cavity  a&ove  i/te  entrance — Inner  chamber — Leonine  Gate — Dimen- 
sions and  description  of  the  Propylaea —  Mythological  Symbols — 
Consecrated  Gates — Of  the  Pylagorae — ^Egyptian  characteristics — 
Worship  of  the  Sun — Walls  of  Mycenae. 

chap,  xvi.      JL  he  advocates  for  the  early  origin  of  "  the  pointed  style" 
Further  in-       in  Gothic  architecture  will  have  cause  enough   for   triumph 

quiry  into  the 

ori-in  of  in  the   Cyclopean    Gallery  at  Tiryns  ;    exhibiting   ''lancet 

TSryns. 

arches"  almost  as  antient  as  the  time  of  Abraham1:  and  if 
the  learned  Pezron  have  not  erred  in  his  history  of  the 
Gauls,  the  Citadel,  itself  may  be  considered  as  a  Celtic 
structure2.  Be  this  as  it  may,  the  subject  is  certainly 
curious;  and  if  it  serve  only  as  an  amusing  topic  of  research, 
will  perhaps  be  gratifying  to  the  studious  Reader.  In 
tracing  the  march  of  the  Celtce  out  of  the  regions  of  Upper 
Asia,  he  brings  a  colony,  under  the  name  of  Titans,  from 
Phrygia  into  Peloponnesus,  some  years  before  the  death  of  the 
patriarch  Abraham3.  These  men,  owing  to  their  astonishing 
power  and  prowess,  and  the  mighty  works  whereby 
they  became  signalized,  he  believes  to  have  been  the 
Giants  and  Titans  of  the  Septuagint  version  of  Isaiah*  and 
of  Judith5;  men  who  became  afterwards  the  omnipotent  and 

sovereign 

(1)  The  author  would  have  accompanied   this   by  an   engraving,  bnt    it  has  been 
.                        superseded  by  Mr.  Gell's  most  accurate  representation  of  the  Gallery  at  Tiryns,  as 

published  in  his  Work,  to  which  the  Reader  is  particularly  referred.  See  Gell's 
Itinerary  of  Greece,  Plate  xvi.  p.  56.     Lond.  1810. 

(2)  See  a  most  ingenious  Dissertation  on  the  "  Antiquities  of  Nations."  by  Paul 
Pezron.     Lond.  I8O9. 

(3)  "I  have  shewn,  in  treating  of  those  princes  who  ruled  over  the  Titans,  that 
they  were  the  contemporaries  of  Abraham,  and  even  of  his  father  Terah."  Pezroris 
Antiq.  of  Nations,  p.  185.    Lond.  ISOy.     See  also  p.  83. 

(4)  TiyavTuq  01  dpfavres  rtjs  yni.     Isaiah,  xiv.  Q. 

(5)  Judith,  lib.  vi.  ver.  6,  and  7-    viol  Ttrdvuy. 


T  I  R  Y  N  S. 


655 


sovereign  gods  of  Greece  and  Rome ;  according  to  the  chap,  xvi. 
common  practice  among  the  Antients,  of  deifying  their 
deceased  monarchs.  He  finds,  moreover,  the  names  of 
all  their  Princes  in  the  Celtic  language3.  In  a  work  of 
this  kind  we  must  leave  such  profound  researches  to  the 
investigation  of  antiquaries  and  philologists.  Let  us  only 
see,  with  reference  to  Tiryns  (concerning  whose  origin 
any  sound  information  is  as  light  shining  in  darkness), 
whether  there  be  aught  connected  with  its  history  likely 
to  corroborate  Pezrons  opinion.  All  the  writers  by  whom 
its  builders  are  mentioned,  attribute  its  architecture  to  the 
identical  race  he  has  mentioned ;  that  is  to  say,  to  the 
Giants,  under  a  different  appellation  of  Cyclops :  and  this 
name  was  bestowed  upon  them  in  consequence  of  a  custom 
which  any  Celtic  helmet  would  illustrate,  namely,  that  of 
having  only  one  aperture  for  sight,  in  the  middle  of  the 
visor.  They  came  also  from  the  country  whence  Pezron 
deduces  his  Titan  colony  ;  from  the  southern  provinces  of 
Phrygia  Magna,  Caria,  and  Lycia1.  In  the  next  place 
occurs  a  circumstance  of  a  more  decisive  nature,  calculated 
to  confirm  the  observations  of  that  author  in  a  very  striking 

manner ; 


(6)  Pezron's  Antiq.  of  Nations.  Pref.  p.  xviii.  Also  B.  I.  c.  14.  p.  111.  B.  II.  c.  1. 
p.  185,  &c.     Land.  I8O9. 

(7)  "  CasaubonuSj  ex  Apollodoro,  Cyclophs  in  Lycia  invenit,  et  eos  in  Graecia 
regnante  Jobates  habitasse  ait.  Jobates  Bellerophonti  luit  coaevus,  qui  tertia  aetate 
ante  bellum  Trojanum  exiitit.  Quo  tempore  Tiryns  forsan  fuit  condita.  Strabo 
K.dpas  quosdam  ad  Epidaurum  ducit.  Caria  Lyciae  proxima  est,  ergo  Cyclopes  Lycii 
cum  colonia  Carum  forsan  Tirynthem  advenerunt."  Fid,  Annot.  in  Strabon.  Geog. 
lib.  viii.  p.  5-10.    ed.  Oxon.  180/. 


Pmtm 


656 


CHAP.  XVI. 


Road  to 
Argos. 


PELOPONNESUS. 

manner ;  although  by  him  unnoticed.  It  is  found  in  an 
antient  name  of  the  Inachus,  flowing  between  Tiryns  and 
Argos.  This  river  was  called  Haliacmojn,  from  a  person 
who  is  mentioned  by  Plutarch '  as  of  Tirynthian  race,  but 
bearing,  in  fact,  the  same  name  as  the  father  of  Uranus, 
by  whom  the  Titan-Celts  were  conducted  into  Peloponnesus1. 
His  name  was  Acmon  ;  but  Sanchoniathon,  who  wrote,  as 
it  is  believed,  his  history  of  Phoenice  before  the  Trojan  war, 
plainly  intimates  that  this  prince  was  styled,  in  the  language 
of  that  country,  Elion  (Most  high),  answering  to  the  Greek 
title  TYirro?,  altissiinus* .  In  Phrygia  there  was  a  town 
called  Acmonia*;  and  one  of  the  Cyclops  had  the  name  of 
Acmonides*.  Hence  it  seems  evident  that  the  Titan-Celtce 
were  of  the  same  race  as  the  Cyclops,  who  constructed  the 
Tirynthian  Citadel ;  and,  consequently,  that  the  walls  of 
Tirvns  are  of  Celtic  original. 

We  crossed  the  Inachus  at  its  junction  with  the 
Charadrus,  in  our  road  from  Tiryns  to  Argos.  The  distance 
is  about  six  English  miles.  Nothing  can  exceed  the  magni- 
ficence of  the  scenery  all  around  the  Gulph  ;  and  it  cannot 

be 


(1)  Ivayoa  Tora/nos  tan  r>jc  'Apyeia?  \dpac.  zkoKuto  ce  re  nporipov  \Lupudru>p. 
' AXidx/xav  ci  rp  yivtt.  Tipvvdiog,  ev  ru>  Y^OKKvyiu  iroif.iaivQV  opti,  teal  tear  dyvoiav  rq 
"Pr'at  ovyyivopctvov  t>jq  Ala  deaadpevos,  cp:/j.ayt]c  ey'tvero,  cat  p.ed'  6p/ui]<;  ivsydtlt, 
'IfiuXev  iavrov  ?<V  irorafxov  Kap/xdvopa,  6c  an-'  avrov  'AAlAKMflN  jxtrMvopidoOij. 
Plutarch,  de  Fluviis,  pp.  58,  5Q.     Tolosce,  \6l5. 

(2)  See  Pezron's  "  Antiquities  of  Nations,"  B.I.  e.g.  p.  6l.     Lond.  I8O9. 

(3)  Sanchon.  apud  Euseb.  Praep.  Evangel,  lib.  i.   c.  10. 

(4)  Step.  Byzantin.  Acmonia. 

(5)  Ovid.  Fast.  IV.   v.  288. 


FROM  TIRYNS  TO  ARGOS.  657 

be  necessary  to  enumerate  the  interesting  recollections  that  .CHAP- XVI- 
serve  to  render  it  still  more  impressive.-  In  this  ride  from 
Tiryns  to  Argos,  the  prospect  is  particularly  striking:  the 
antient  Capital,  even  in  its  state  of  wretchedness,  with 
scarcely  a  wreck  remaining,  has  still  an  appearance  which 
is,  in  every  sense  of  the  term,  imposing.  It  leads  the 
traveller  to  believe  that  he  shall  find,  upon  his  arrival, 
the  most  ample  traces  of  its  pristine  greatness.  This 
is  principally  owing  to  a  cause  already  assigned;  to  the 
prodigious  contribution  made  by  the  geological  features 
of  the  country,  in  the  plans  of  Grecian  cities ;  where 
Nature  has  herself  supplied,  upon  a  most  stupendous  scale, 
what  Art  would  otherwise  more  humbly  have  contrived. 
In  various  parts  of  Greece,  where  the  labours  of  man  have 
been  swept  away,  —  where  time,  barbarians,  nay,  even 
earthquakes,  and  every  other  moral  and  physical  revolution, 
have  done  their  work,  an  eternal  city  seems  still  to  survive; 
because  the  Acropolis,  the  Stadium,  the  Theatre,  the 
Sepulchres,  the  Shrines,  and  the  votive  receptacles,  are  so 
many  "sure  and  firm-set"  rocks;  slightly  modified  indeed 
by  the  hand  of  man,  but  upon  which  the  blast  of  desolation 
passes  like  the  breath  of  a  zephyr.  Argos  is  conspicuous  in 
this  class  of  cities  :  and  if  in  the  approach  to  it  from  Tiryns, 
where  Art  seems  to  have  rivalled  Nature  in  the  eternity  of 
her  existence,  the  view  be  directed  towards  the  sea,  a 
similar  and  not  less  striking  object  is  presented,  in  the 
everlasting  Citadel  of  Nauplia.  The  Inachus,  separating  The  River 
the  two  capitals  of  Acrisius  and  Erostus,  is  now,  as  it  was 
formerly,  a  wide,  but  shallow  water-course,  sometimes 
vol.  in.  4  p  entirely 


f?pE^ 


^^h  **^  assess  J^P  yzm   .**&■ 

Wtgi  KB  BB         t-vj-.o?- 


658 


PELOPONNESUS. 


chap,  xvi.  entirely  dry.  It  was  dry  when  we  passed.  Callimachus 
mentions  its  beautiful  waters'.  On  account  of  its  periodical 
exsiccation,  it  has  been  considered  by  travellers  as  having 
been  the  subject  of  a  greater  alteration  than  it  has  really 
sustained.  Antient  stories,  it  is  true,  pretended  that  it 
was  once  remarkable  for  suicides,  committed  by  persons 
who  had  precipitated  themselves  into  its  flood'1 :  but  these 
events  might  happen  in  an  occasional  torrent,  as  well  as 
in  a  perennial  river3.  A  circumstance  related  by  Agathoclcs 
the  Milesian,  and  cited  from  his  writings  by  Plutarch*, 
in  his  description  of  the  Inachus,  may  prove  that  the 
state  of  the  river  now  does  not  differ  from  its  antient 
condition.  Agathocles  maintained,  that  being  thunderstruck 
by  Jupiter,  it  became  dry  in  consequence  of  the  heat5. 
Strabo's  description  of  it  is  applicable  to  a  water-course, 
rather  than  to  a  flowing  river*.  Plutarch  has  stated  a 
few  observations  connected  with  its  natural  history,  which 
our  time  did  not  enable  us  to  verify.  Speaking  of  its  plants 
and  minerals,  he  says,  that  the  herb  Cyura  grew  in  the 
bed  of  the  river,  celebrated  for  its  properties  in  assisting 
parturition  :    it    resembled  Peganum1 ;    and   this    word   the 

Latin 


Plant*  and 
Minerals. 


(1)  See  the  Hymn  bf  Callimachus  upon  the  Baths  of  Pallas. 

(2)  Vid.  Plutarch,  de  Fluviis,  pp.  58,  59.    Tolos.  16 15. 

(3)  "  Most  of  the  Grecian  streams  are   winter  torrents,  and  dry  in  the  summer 
Squire's  MS.  Correspondence. 

(4)  Plutarch,  de  Fiuv.  ut  supra,  p.  60. 

(5)  A<a   wavoxipyiav   vwo  rov   Scot;  KsnavvuOivra,  %Wo6v   ytviaQai.      Ibid. 

(6)  ~S.apacpoi^r]<j  Trora/icog.     Strabon.  Geog.  lib.  viii.  p.  537-    Ed.  Oxon. 

(7)  VLtydvu  Trpouoj-ioiog.     Ibid. 


■Mi  -*Mi*MLZ, 


FROM  TIRYNS  TO  ARGOS.  659 

Latin  translator  of  Plutarch  has  rendered  by  Ruta  ;  perhaps     chap.xvi. 
from  the  extraordinary  virtues  ascribed  universally  to  Rue, 
which  caused  it  to  receive  at  an  early  period  in  our  country 
the  name  of  "  Herb  of  grace*."     Rue  has  been  celebrated  as 
an  antidote  against  poison,  pestilence,  and  the  devil ;  being 
used  in  exorcisms,  and  extolled  and  recommended  by  almost 
all  medical  writers  from  Hippocrates  to  Boerhaave.     But  the 
herb  called  Peganum  by  Theophrastus  and  Dioscorides  differs 
from   Ruta9.     The   plant    mentioned   by  Plutarch    remains 
therefore  to  be  ascertained ;   because,  as  "Pvrv  was  the  more 
antient  name,  particularly  in  Peloponnesus10,  and  Ilriyocvov  the 
more  modern,  it  may  be  supposed  that  Plutarch  would  have 
bestowed  the  former  appellation  upon  it,    if  it   had  been 
applicable.      The    same    author    mentions    also    the    herb 
Selene,   producing  a   species   of  foam    (u,<pgog),   which   the 
peasants  collected  in  the  beginning  of  summer,  and  applied 
to  their  feet  as  an  antidote  against  the  venom  of  reptiles". 
Its  minerals  were,  the  Beryel12,  and  a  stone  called  Corybas", 
of  a  raven  colour,  used  as  a  charm  against  fearful  dreams. 
The  latter  was  probably  nothing  more  than  the   dark  fetid 
limestone,  to  which  imaginary  virtues  are  still  ascribed  in  the 

East : 


(S) "  there's  Rue  for  you; — here's  some  for  me; — we  may  call  it 

Herb  of  grace  o'  Sundays."  Shakspcare's  Hamlet. 

(9)  "As   Celastrus   from  Euonymus."     See  Martyn's  Edit,  of  Miller,  vol.11. 
Parti.    Lond.1807. 

(10)  Ibid.    Vol.11.  Part  2. 

(11)  Plutarch  de  Fluv.  p. 62.    Tolos.l6l5. 

(12)  Ibid.  p.  60. 

(13)  Ibid.  p.  64. 


TMWJSf 


660 


PELOPONNESUS. 


:VL,  East :  we  found  it  among  the  most  antient  amulets  in  the 
catacombs  of  Saccdra  in  Egypt.  With  regard  to  the  former, 
it  is  exceedingly  difficult  at  this  time  to  determine  the 
particular  stone  called  Beryll  by  the  Antients.  We  learn 
from  Epiphanins,  that  it  was  of  a  yellow  colour1,  and  found 
near  Mount  Taurus.  But  there  were  other  varieties  of 
Beryll;  one  resembling  the  pupil  of  a  serpent's  eye2;  another 
like  wax,  found  near  the  mouth  of  the  Euphrates5.  Hence 
it  is  evident  that  different  minerals  bore  this  name  among 
the  Antients  :  the  first  variety  may  have  been  our  Topaz ;  the- 
second  and  third  were  in  all  probability  different  appearances 
of  Chalcedony r.  Theophrastus  does  not  mention  the  Beryll ; 
and  in  Pliny's  account  of  the  stone,  fifty  different  minerals 
may  be  included.  He  begins  by  placing  it  among  Emeralds4 ; 
and  the  account  he  gives  of  the  hexangular  shape  preserved 
by  the  lapidaries  in  polishing,  seems  to  prove  that  it  had  the 
natural  form  of  our  Emerald,  care  being  taken  to  polish  it 
upon  its  lateral  planes  :  but  his  subsequent  remarks,  added 
to  his  concluding  observation  that  all  Berylls  are  liable  to 
capillary  blemishes,  and  to  be  vitiated  by  extraneous 
substances,  brings  his  Beryll  at  once  to  our  Quartz ;  and  this 
also  crystallizes  in  the  hexagonal  form. 

We 


(1)  Aidoi  BHPTAAION,  yXavicifav  fxh  tan,  k.t.X.     Epiphanius  de  xii  Gemmis. 
quae  erant  in  veste  Aaronis.    p.  JO.    Tigur.  1565. 

(2)  Tate  Kopats  tuv  o^daXfxwv  rov  IpdxovTOs  iari  TrapcurXrjtyia.      Ibid. 

(3)  "E<TTt   Ct  teal   c'iXX?}  7rdXiv  6/noiu   icrjpu).      Ibid. 

(4)  Vid.  Plin.  Hist.  Nat.  lib.  xxxvii.  c.  6.  p.  535.  torn.  III.    L.Bat.  1635. 


iV-i^fh- 


ARGOS. 


661 


We  arrived  at  Argos,  and  were  most  hospitably  received  chap.  xvr. 

by  the  English Barataryb,  Mr.  Blasopulo,  pronounced  Vlasopulo.  Arg°*- 
He  presented  us,  upon  our  arrival,  a  silver  medal  of  Ptolemy, 

and  some   beautiful  terra- cotta  vases  found    in  sepulchres  at  Terracotta 

Vases. 

a  village  called  Pesopodce,  near  the  Inachus,  situated  to  the 
north  of  Argos.  The  Albanian  peasants  by  whom  they 
were  discovered  had  broken  many  more;  not  choosing  to 
use  vessels  that  had  been  taken  from  graves,  and  conceiving 
them  to  be  of  no  value.  They  were  all  evidently  Grecian, 
and  made  in  an  age  when  the  Arts  were  much  advanced,  if 
not  in  their  most  splendid  a?ra6.    A  patera  with  two  handles, 

of 


(5)  A  Baratary  is  a  person  who  enjoys  the  protection  of  some  nation  in  alliance 
with  the  Porte.     Mr.  Blasopulo  was  protected  by  the  British  nation. 

(6)  The  annexed  Plate  exhibits  thirteen  of  the  most  remarkable  of  the  terra  cottas 
found  here  or  at  Sicyon,  or  in  other  parts  of  the  Peloponnesus. 

Fig.  1.  is  evidently  a  Patera  ;  but  for  what  particular  use  this  vessel  was  designed 
by  the  Greeks,  is  not  so  conspicuous.  Such  pateras  are  sometimes  represented  in  the 
hands  of  female  Bacchanals ;  possibly  therefore  it  was  used  for  drinking  wine  :  the 
Turks  drink  sorbet  out  of  vessels  of  the  same  form,  but  without  foot  or  handle.  Virgil, 
in  describing  Dido's  royal  feast,  says,  "  Implevit  mero  pateram."  After  the  fair  Queen 
had  made  a  libation,  she  presented  the  patera  to  Bitias,  who  drank  the  whole  of  its 
contents  : 

"  Turn  Bitias  dedit  iocrepitans :    ill©  impiger  hausit 

Spumantem  pateram." 

The  blood  of  victims  was  received  in  such  vessels ;  and  it  is  highly  probable  that  their 
form  was  originally  derived  from  the  top  part  of  the  human  scull,  used  by  all  the  Celtic 
tribes  in  drinking  the  blood  of  their  enemies,  and  as  a  drinking  vessel.  A  bumper  in 
Norway  is  still  called  a  Skool ;  and  the  sorbet  cups  of  the  Turks,  being  without  handles 
and  feet,  have  exactly  the  shape  of  the  upper  part  of  the  cranium.  Upon  the  subject 
of  Pateras,  Gale,  in  his  "  Court  of  the  Gentiles,"  has  the  following  observations :  "  The 
Levite  having  killed  the  victime,  the  Priest  received  the  blood  in  a  vessel  j  which  Moses 
(Exod.xx'iv.6.)  calls  ni3J«  Aganoth;  and  the  Chaldee  tPpTTD,  that  is  to  say,  an  Aspersorie: 
the  Lxx  render  it  KpaTijpa.<; ;  so  the  Vulgate,  Crateras.  In  imitation  -whereof,  the  Popa 
having  killed  the  victime,  the  Priest  received  the  blood  in  a  vessel ;  which  vessel  the 
Attickscall  cqciywv.  Homer  (Odyss.  y.)  styles  it  dfxpioy.  the  Latin,  Pateras.  So  Virgil 


P8P3 


fWAT^vyk  ***x.-*^jg  ^-wtrr^fl 


I  ■  ,■»■•.-.?&*  ,-*'.*,■*  k^v»/j>r  i*,.«»W* 1  .•*.■**  vt^i'.v  "j^v.^.-.i*^.  .-J1 


,-tow -i  V>. ; ^la,  ,•*•.'■       r.-.-*^, 


662 


PELOPONNESUS. 


of  the  most  perfect  form  and  exquisite  workmanship,  was 
almost  covered  with  a  white  incrustation,  like  mortar,  as 
hard  as  flint.    After  placing  it  for  thirty-six  hours  in  diluted 

muriatic 


(JEn.  I.  iii.)  '  Sanguinis  et  sacri  pateras; — which  he  understands  of  the  victimes,  as 
Servius." 

Fig.  2.  A  Libatory  Vessel,  four  inches  in  height,  painted  with  dark  stripes  upon 
a  yellow  ground  j  perhaps  for  containing  oil.  It  has  no  orifice  above  the  neck  :  the 
only  opening  is  like  the  spout  of  a  tea-pot,  a  part  being  broken  off;  but  the  rest  is  seen 
between  the  right  handle  and  the  neck  of  the  vessel. 

Fig.  3.  A  beautiful  double-handled  Cup  and  Cover,  curiously  painted  red  and  black 
upon  a  yellow  ground,  four  inches  high,  and  five  inches  in  diameter.  It  was  probably 
intended  for  honey,  the  handles  being  stouter  than  in  the  others,  and  the  cover  perhaps 
designed  to  preserve  its  contents  from  flies  or  other  insects. 

Fig.  4.  A  Lamp  of  red  clay  ;  perhaps  one  of  the  viprepov  dydX/naja  mentioned 
afterwards  in  the  text.  Sometimes  the  representation  of  a  human  head  is  found  with 
a  handle  and  spout,  as  a  drinking  vessel,  like  the  toys  sold  in  our  potteries.  The  forms 
of  various  animals  also  occur  as  lamps  and  vessels  of  libation. 

Fig.  5.  The  Greek  Pitcher,  for  milk,  or  water,  5^  inches  high  to  the  top  of  the 
handle,  A\  inches  to  the  lip. 

Fig.  6.  A  Lachrymal  Phial  of  coarse  dark  clay;  nine  inches  in  length:  we  found 
several  of  these  in  Sicyon.  This  is  the  most  antient  form  of  the  Lachrymatory  :  in 
later  ages  they  were  smaller,  and  of  glass.  "  Put  thou  my  tears  into  thy  bottle." 
Ps.  viii.  8. 

Fig.  7.  A  Lachrymatory,  found  upon  the  site  of  antient  Cromyon,  of  the  same 
material  as  the  preceding  :  this  is  A\  inches  high.  It  has  white  circles  upon  a  dark 
ground,  the  common  colour  of  marl. 

Fig.  8.  Three  of  this  form,  beautiful  Libatory  Vessels,  with  black  ornaments 
on  a  red  ground,  were  found  in  Epidauria.  The  plant  painted  uponthem  is  that  which 
architects  call  Acanthus,  and  antiquaries  sometimes  the  Lotus. 

Fig.  Q.  Above  twenty  vessels  of  this  shape,  of  different  sizes,  were  found  in 
Epidauria ;  the  largest  not  being  more  than  four  inches  high,  and  about  five  inches  in 
diameter,  of  a  bright  red  colour  j  sometimes  almost  covered  with  black  varnish,  shining 
like  polished  jet ;  but  of  the  most  delicate  workmanship,  and  nearly  as  thin  as  paper. 

Fig.  10.  A  Lamp,  of  dark,  coarse,  heavy  clay. 

Figs.  11,  12.  Small  vessels,  the  largest  being  only  one  inch  in  height,  and  two  inches 
diameter:  perhaps  designed  for  the  same  use  to  which  they  are  still  applied  by  modern 
nations ;  namely,  as  stands  for  salt. 

Fig.  13.  Small  Lachrymatory,  of  red  clay. 


A  It  G  O  S. 


663 


muriatic  acid,  during  all  which  time  the  extraneous  cement 
dissolved  with  effervescence,  there  appeared  upon  its 
surface  a  beautiful  black  varnish,  shining  like  polished  jet, 
not  in  the  slightest  degree  affected  by  the  acid.  Within 
the  lower  superficies  of  the  foot  of  the  vessel,  the  maker's 
name  was  expressed  by  a  Greek  monogram  ;  proving  either 
that  a  Grecian  potter  was  proud  to  acknowledge  this  masterly 
piece  of  workmanship,  or  that  it  was  usual  to  inscribe  the 
names  of  places  celebrated  in  the  manufacture  of  earthen- 
ware ;  and  in  this  case,  the  monogram  may  be  intended  for 
MErAPEftN.  It  consisted  of  the  letters  ME,  which  had  been 
inscribed  with  the  point  of  a  sharp  instrument,  and  written 
in  this  manner  :  AyJ^" 

There  were  other  pateras  of  the  same  manufacture,  but 
not  entire  :  also  a  number  of  lachrymatories,  and  tibatory 
vessels,  adorned  with  monochrome  painting;  cups  resem- 
bling our  sugar-basons,  with  covers,'  variously  decorated 
by  yellow,  red,  and  black  colours ;  singularly  formed  lamps, 
some  representing  human  figures  ;  smaller  cups,  and  however 
minute  in  their  size,  each  of  these  had  its  double  handle.  The 
Baratary  shewed  to  us  a  very  remarkable  intaglio,  because, 
although  antient,  it  had  been  cut  in  glass  of  a  green  colour; 
the  only  instance  of  the  kind  we  had  ever  seen. 

We  requested  that  our  host  would  in  future  spare  no 
pains  in  his  endeavours  to  collect  all  the  terra  cottas  found 
in  the  neighbourhood  ;  promising  him  that  we  would  find 
purchasers  for  them  in  England,  and  patrons  who  would 
amply  repay  him  for  all  his  expense  and   trouble  as  soon  as 

he 


664 


CHAP.  XVI. 


Ignorance  of 
their  sepul- 
chral use. 


Hecate's 
Supper. 


PELOPONNESUS. 

he  should  give  us  information  that  he  had  succeeded  in  his 
researches.  He  said  he  would  gladly  undertake  the  work, 
if  it  were  only  to  afford  a  proof  of  his  gratitude  for  the 
protection  he  enjoyed  from  the  British  nation  :  but  we 
received  no  intelligence  from  him  afterwards.  It  is  a  most 
extraordinary  fact,  that  in  all  the  elaborate  treatises  we 
possess  touching  the  funerals  of  the  Antients,  no  satisfactory 
cause  has  been  assigned  for  the  quantity  of  earthen  vases 
found  in  Grecian  sepulchres.  In  the  View  of  Charon  s  Ferry, 
engraved  as  a  Vignette  for  a  former  Chapter,  the  Cymba 
sutilis,  fashioned  like  a  Welch  Coracle,  or  rather  an 
American  canoe1,  is  freighted,  besides  passengers,  with 
empty  Amphorce :  but  these  are  not  the  sort  of  vases  found 
within  any  of  the  tombs ;  although  sometimes,  as  symbols 
of  departed  souls,  they  were  placed  upon  the  outsidcs  of  the 
immediate  receptacles  for  the  body2.  The  vases  within  the 
graves  are  of  a  much  finer  quality;  and  sometimes  contain 
little  gilded  representations  of  herbs  and  fruit.  There  is  a 
passage  in  the  Dialogues  of  Lucian,  where  Mercury  is  asked 
by  Charon  what  he  carries  in  the  satchel,  with  which  we  see 
him  so  often  represented;  and  he  answers,3  "  Lupines,  so 
please  you  !  and  a  supper  for  Hecate."  This  raillery  seems 
to   be  levied  against  a  practice  among  his  countrymen,  of 

providing 


(1)  Herodotus  {lib.  i.)  mentions  the  boats  made  of  skins.     The  Scholiast  to  Apol- 
lonius  Rhodiu-i  {lib.  ii.  v.  168.)  describes  them  as  universally  in  use. 

(2)  See  p.  528  of  this  Volume. 

(3)  0f'/)yuoi/v,  et  diXsic,  Kai  rfjc  'Eccir^c  ro  osiirvuv.     Luciani  Dialog.  Mort.  Charon,. 
Menippus,  et  Hermes. 


Mtm 


X 


s 


.~.  ■^.^y.-.s 


A  It  G  O  S. 

providing  deceased  persons  with  some  of  the  good  things  of    ,  *ff  AP- XVI 
this  world,  as  a  passport  for   their  admission  to  the  next  ; 
rather  than  as  an  allusion  to  the  monthly  offerings  made  at  the 
expense  of  the  wealthy,  when  a  public  (hlvvov)  supper  was 
provided  for  the  poor4.     Hecate's  supper,   we  may  suppose, 
would  be  regulated  by  the  rank  and  wealth  of  the  deceased4 ; 
lupines  being  considered  as  the  mean  and  miserable  diet  of 
the  lowest  persons :  and  hereby  is  explained  the  reason  why 
sometimes  a   single  vase  is  found,  of  the  poorest  quality; 
and    why,     in    certain    instances,     the   number   has    been 
increased  to  forty,  of  the    most  costly   workmanship.     It 
should   be  observed,    that  Lectisternium,  or  the  custom  of 
giving  a  supper  in  a  temple  to  the  Gods,  may  have  originated 
in  the  funeral  feast  at  tombs,   from  what  has  been  already 
said  of  the  origin  of  temples6.  .  This  practice  of  feasting  at 
funerals  has   existed  from   the   days  of  Homer7;  and  still 
exists  among  the  descendants  of  the  antient  Celts,  both  in 
Ireland  and  Scotland;  and  it  was  once  common  in  England8. 
An   author  has  indeed  observed,  that  Lectisternium  began 

*    about 


Lectister- 
nium. 


(4)  See  Potter  on  the  EKATH2IA.  Archaeologia  Graeca,  vol.1,  p.  386.  Lond.  1751. 

(5)  Or  by  the  age ;  for  of  this  we  have  curious  testimony  in  the  following  answer 
of  Apollo,  when  interceding  for  the  life  of  Alcestis  : 

h.(fy  ypavs,  bXrjrac  irkovaiug  ra^rjaerat. 

(6)  See  Part  I.  of  these  Trav,  Ch.  XVII.  p.  400.     Broxl.  1811. 

(7)  6  oi  Trarspa  kXvtov  'cktu, 

"WtOL  6   T1]r   KTSIVCIC  CUIVV   T(X(j)OV  'ApySlOHTtV 

M.rjTp6c  re  arvyEpfjt:  k<xi  aVa'X/ctcoc  Klyivdoio. 

Horn.  Odyss.  lib.  iii. 

(S)  "  the.  funeral  baked  meats 

Did  coldly  furnish  forth  the  marriage  tables." 

Sliakspeare's  Hamlet,  Act  I.  sc.  ? 

VOL.   III.  4  Q 


npir* 


w»Tii  V«va!  »^fs  ^^h  mm 


►»,-,■«> 


666 


PELOPONNESUS. 


Probable 
cause  of 
depositing 
Earthen 
Vessels  in 
Sepulchres. 


chap.  xvi.  about  a.  u.  c.  356. '  that  is  to  say,  it  was  then  adopted  by 
the  Romans  ;  but  it  was  a  much  older  ceremony  in  Greece  : 
and  the  occasion  of  its  introduction  among  the  Romans 
shews  that  it  was  connected  with  offerings  for  the  dead*,  as 
it  was  during  a  solemn  supplication  for  deliverance  from  the 
plague.  We  do  not  know  precisely  the  nature  of  the 
offering  that  was  placed  within  any  of  these  earthen  vases, 
in  Grecian  tombs :  the  cake  of  flour  and  honey  (^sXirovroc) 
was  put  into  the  mouth  of  the  deceased,  together  with  a 
piece  of  money  (tiuvuxti)  as  Charon  s  fare,  and  not  into  any 
vessel  by  the  side  of  the  corpse :  but  there  were  other 
offerings,  rarely  noticed  by  any  writer,  of  which  these 
vessels  may  be  examples ;  namely,  the  -/.ovpoi  that  were 
carried  to  the  grave  in  honour  of  the  funeral.  We  have 
before  stated  that  the  sepulchral  terra-cottas  have  sometimes 
the  form  of  images.  Every  person  who  attended  the  cere- 
mony of  a  Grecian  funeral  brought  a  complimentary  token 
(rov  %6<rpov)  of  his  respect  for  the  deceased;  such  as  Admetus, 
in  Euripides3,  denied  his  father  the  liberty  to  give  to  his  wife, 
which  all  the  rest  of  the  company  had  previously  presented. 
The  nature  of  the  yJa-^oi  has  never  been  explained  ;  any  more 
than  of  the  vsgr&gau  ccyocX^ocrcx,\  said  to  be  carried  by  those  who 
followed  the  corpse  ;  by  some  translated  imagines ;  by  others, 
grata  munera.  From  the  light  thrown  upon  the  subject  by 
a  view  of  the  sepulchres  themselves,  there  is  every  reason  to 

believe 


(1)  O.  Walker  on  Coins  and  Medals,  ch.  vi.  p.  89.     Lond.  1697. 

(2)  "  They  joined  themselves  unto  Baal-Peor,  and  ate   the  sacrifices  of  the  dead.' 
Psalms,  cvi.  28. 

(3)  K6t/u.op  Be  rov  16v  ovttoc'  7}  c'  ivBvairat..      Euripid.  in  Ale.  v.  630, 

(4)  Ibid.  v.  612. 


A  II  G  O  S.  gg^ 

believe  that  these  beautiful  vases,  with  all  the  lamps,  lachry-  chap.xvi; 
matories,  and  earthen  vessels,  found  in  Grecian  tombs,  many 
of  them  being  highly  ornamented,  were  the  gifts  alluded  to 
by  Euripides,  either  to  the  dead,  or  to  the  Gods  of  the  dead. 
Hence  perhaps  we  arrive  at  the  meaning  of  the  Inscription 
mentioned  in  the  fourteenth  Chapter,  as  found  upon  an 
Athenian  lamp, — "  Socrates,  accept  this  animal!"  Pure  clay 
was  an  offering  to  the  Gods5.  Another  curious  subject  of 
inquiry  suggested  by  the  sight  of  them  is,  Whence  the  origin  of  the 
custom  originated  ?  for  it  is  undoubtedly  of  much  earlier 
date  than  any  thing  purely  Grecian.  It  is  impossible  to 
discuss  this  question  here ;  but  it  may  briefly  be  stated,  that 
in  the  most  antient  sepulchres  of  the  Celts,  in  all  parts  of 
Europe,  earthen  vessels  are  also  found  of  the  simplest  form 
and  rudest  workmanship,  apparently  possessing  a  degree  of 
antiquity  far  beyond  the  age  denoted  by  any  of  the  Grecian 
terra- cott as.  Pausanias  mentions  a  terra-cotta  Soros  that  was 
dug  up  at  Argos,  supposed  to  have  been  that  wherein  Ariadne 
had  been  buried  ;  thereby  demonstrating  its  great  antiquity6. 
Such  vessels  are  also  found  in  the  Tumuli  or  Mounds  of 
Tartary,  and  in  North  America  ;  their  situation,  construc- 
tion, form,  and  contents,  being  so  similar,  that  there  can  be 
no  hesitation  in  ascribing  their  origin  to  the  same  people7. 

The 


(5)  See  Greek  Marbles,  p.  70.     Camb.lSOQ. 

(6)  Kepa^eav  aopov.     Paus.  Corinth,  c.  23.  p.  l64.     ed.  Kuhnii. 

(7)  See  Harris's  Tour  into  the  Territory  North-west  of  the  Alleghany  Mountains, 
p.  175.     Boston,  1605. 


HHWWj'-"--  J/^         Sr^Tf 


668 


CHAP.  XV!. 


PELOPONNESUS 

The  supposed  tomb  of  Theseus,  opened  by  Cimon  son  of 
Miltiades,  in  the  Isle  of  Scyros,  from  the  description  given 
of  the  weapons  found  within  it,  appears  to  have  been  one 
of  these  aboriginal  sepulchres.  De  Stchlin,  who  was 
secretary  to  the  Imperial  Academy  at  Petersburg,  declared 
that  there  is  not  one  instance  of  such  a  Tumulus  bein'g  found 
to  the  northward  of  the  fifty-eighth  degree  of  north  lati- 
tude1. This  perhaps  is  doubtful.  A  full  account  of  those 
monuments  ought  to  constitute  an  independent  work ;  and 
whenever  the  subject  is  properly  treated,  the  observations 
it  is  calculated  to  introduce  will  illustrate  a  part  of  history 
hitherto  entirely  unknown. 

We  employed  the  whole  of  this  day  in  examining  the 
Town  and  its  Ruins ;  a  period  certainly  too  short  for  the 
undertaking ;  but  where  much  is  to  be  effected,  some  things 
must  be  done  quickly.  Argos  is  a  large  straggling  place, 
full  of  cottages,  with  few  good  houses:  and,  as  we  have 
before  alluded  to  Celtic  remains  in.  this  part  of  Peloponnesus, 
it  may  be  proper  to  mention,  that  the  roofs  here  are  not 
flat,  as  in  almost  all  parts  of  the  East,  but  slope  like  those 
of  Northern  nations.  The  same  style  of  building  may 
be  observed  in  Athens,  and  in  other  parts  of  Greece. 
Whether  introduced  by  Albanian  workmen,  or  owing  tc 
customs  which  antiently  existed  in  the  country,  we  have  not 
been  able  to  learn.  The  women  were  busjed  in  collecting 
their  cotton  from  the  fields ;  and  at  this  season  of  the  yeai 

al. 


(l)   See  Harris's  Tour,  p.  171-     Boston,  1805. 


/ 


a  R  G  O  S. 

all  the  marriages  take  place.    The  present  population  consists     chap.xvi. 

of  six  thousand,  including  females  and  children2.     There  is     Population. 

a   school   kept  by  a  Greek  priest.    Being  desirous  to  know 

what  the  children  were  taught,  we  visited  the  master,  who 

seemed  pleased  by  our  inquiries,  as  if  he  had  bestowed  pains 

upon  hfs  scholars.    He  said  they  were  instructed  in  writing, 

arithmetic,    astronomy,   physic,   and  rhetoric.    About  forty 

years  before,  it  had  been  customary  for  the  principal  families 

of  Nauplia  and  Argos  to   send   their  children  to  Athens  for 

instruction.    The  Consul  at  Nauplia  had  been  there  educated : 

it  was   in  giving  us  an  account  of  his  journeys  to  Athens 

that  we  first  heard  any  mention  made  of  the  Statue  of  Ce?*es 

at  Eleusis  ;  for  this  had  excited   his   curiosity  when   a   boy, 

and  was  regularly  visited  by  him  in  his  way   to  and  from 

Athens.    The  houses  in  Argos  are   built  with  a  degree   of 

regularity,  and  fitted  up  with  some  comforts  uncommon  in 

this  part  of  the  world,  although  in  other  respects  wretched 

hovels.     They  are  all  ranged  in   right   lines,  or  in  parallel 

lines  ;     and    each    house   consisting  of  a    single   story  has 

an    oven  ;   so   that   even  the  Albanians  do  not   bake    their 

unleavened  cakes  upon  the  hearth,   as  it  is  usual  elsewhere 

in   their  cottages.     From  Ar^os,  the  distance   to  Mantinea 

is  only  eight  hours  ;    and  it  is  but  a   day's  journey  to  Tripo- 

lizza,  the  capital  of  the  Morea.     When  we  heard   this,  and 

the  pressing  invitation  of  our  Baratary  to  visit  with  him 

a   part   of  Arcadia,   whose   mountains   are   actually  visible 

from 


(2)  "  Not  four  thousand,"  according  to  Mr.  Gell;  {I tin.  of  Greece,  p.  6g.)  perhaps 
opt  including  children  and  women. 


a^s^jTOf1  ?ot«W;  r***^F  l^p1^  hh 


670 


CHAP.  XVI. 


PELOPONNESUS. 

from  the  Citadel,  and  also  to  extend  our  journey  to 
Misitra,  we  gladly  ordered  horses  for  the  expedition  ;  but  a 
powerful  antidote  to  enterprise,  the  mat- aria  fever,  returning 
amongst  us  with  its  most  violent  paroxysms  during  the 
night,  had  so  considerably  reduced  our  stock  of  energies 
before  the  morning,  that  with  deep  regret  we  were  com- 
pelled to  abandon  the  design  of  seeing  Mantinea,  Megalopolis, 
and  Sparta,  and  to  adhere  to  our  original  plan.  How 
few  are  the  travellers  who  have  seen  the  interior  of  the 
Morea  !  and  in  that  small  number,  where  may  we  look  for 
one  who  has  given  any  intelligence  that  may  be  called 
information,  respecting  the  Ruins  of  the  cities  which  that 
country  is  known  to  contain1?  Perhaps  the  time  is  at  hand 
when  we  shall  know  more  of  a  region  as  easily  to  be  visited 
as  the  County  of  Derbyshire,  and  where  the  traveller  is  not 
exposed  to  half  the   dangers    encountered   every    night   in 

the 

(l)  Yes !  there  is  one  traveller,  whose  qualifications  for  this  purpose  are  well 
known,  and  have  been  already  noticed  in  this  Work  ;  but  who  could  never  be  prevailed 
upon  to  estimate  the  value  of  his  own  observations  high  enough  to  induce  him  to 
publish  them.  This  traveller  is  John  Hawkins,  M.A.  of  Trinity  College,  Cambridge: 
and  as  any  thing  coming  from  one  who  has  the  satisfaction  to  rank  among  his  friends, 
may  be  imputed  to  partiality,  an  Extract  from  the  MS.  Letters  of  Colonel  Squire  to 
his  brother  may  here  be  considered  appropriate.  "  With  Greece"  {says  Col.  Squire) 
"  our  most  learned  scholars  have  but  a  small  acquaintance:  few 'travellers  have 
published  their  observations  ;  many  events  in  history  have  been  misunderstood  ;  and 
translators  and  commentators  have  been  entirely  bewildered,  owing  to  their  ignorance 
of  its  topography.  The  writers,  to  whom  we  refer  as  our  best  authorities,  are  trifling, 
inaccurate,  and  superficial.  There  is,  however,  a  Gentleman  in  England,  Mr.  Hawkins, 
brother  of  Sir  Christopher  Hawkins,  a  man  of  shrewd  sagacity,  erudition,  and  inde- 
fatigable exertion,  who  has  explored  every  part  of  the  country,  and  now  possesses 
very  ample  means  to  render  a  signal  service  by  the  publication  of  the  materials  he  has 
collected."     Colonel  Squires  MS.  Correspondence. 


ARGOS. 


6/1 


the  neighbourhood  of  London.  Groundless  apprehensions,  chap. xvi. 
calculated  only  to  alarm  children,  concerning  imaginary 
banditti,  and  the  savage  nature  of  its  inhabitants,  have  been 
hitherto  powerful  enough  to  prevent  travellers  from  exploring 
its  interior  ;  but  these  are  beginning  to  vanish ;  and  we  may 
hope  that  many  years  will  not  elapse  before  the  shepherds 
of  Arcadia  and  Laconia,  of  Messenia  and  Elis,  will  have 
become  as  good  guides  to  the  antiquities  of  their  mountains 
and  valleys,  as  the  natives  of  Puzzoli  now  are  to  the  Ruins 
of  Baice. 

The  antiquities  of  Argos,  once  so  numerous2,  may  Antiquities. 
now  be  comprised  within  a  very  short  list.  It  will  be 
useful  for  other  travellers  if  we  give  a  brief  summary, 
omitting  statues  and  altars,  as  they  existed  in  the  second 
century ;  and  then  introduce  a  description  of  the  principal 
remains,  as  we  found  them  ;  for  these  are  not  likely  to  be 
much  affected  by  any  lapse  of  time.  It  is  useless  to  refer 
to  Strabo  upon  this  occasion,  because  he  was  not  upon  the 
spot ;  but  Pausanias,  as  abrorryig,  coming  from  Myeence  to 
Argos,  before  he  arrives  at  the  Inachus,  mentions  the  Hieron 
of  Ceres  Mysias ;  containing  one  of  those  curious  temples 
of  which  we  discovered  some  remains  in  Epidauria  ;  (Nao$ 
oTrrrig  kXUQov)  not  merely  a  temple  roofed  with  baked  tiles 
(for  it  stood  within  another  building  originally  itself  roofed, 
although  in  ruins  when  Pausanias  saw  it),  but  actually 
a  terra-cotta  temple.  The  fragments  of  this  building  may 
yet  be  discerned  ;  although  we  could  find  no  part   of  it  so 

entire 


(2)  See  the  long  list  of  them  in  the  Second  Book  of  Pausanias,  chapters  18,  19,  20, 
21,  22,  23,  24,  from  p.  149  to  p.  167,  of  the  edition  by  Kuhnius.    Lips.  169G. 


jyt^rs*—* 


W">: 


■■  $?m 


67c2 


PELOPONNESUS. 


chap.  xvi.  entire  as  the  beautiful  terra-cotta  cornice  and  frieze  we  had 
been  so  fortunate  as  to  ..discover  in  Epidauria.  Thence 
entering  Argos,  by  the  Gate  of  Lucina,  the  same  author 
notices  in  the  lower  city,  as  the  most  conspicuous1  of  all  the 
temples,  that  of  Apollo  Lycias.  Afterwards,  it  is  difficult  to 
enumerate  all  the  other  temples  mentioned  by  him,  because 
we  do  not  distinctly  know  what  he  intends  by  the  word  cIefo», 
as  distinguished  from  Naoj.  Thus,  for  example,  he  mentions 
the  most  anticnt  Temple*  of  Fortune,  and  the  Hieron  of  the 
Hours3.  We  have  proved  already  that  Hieron  does  not 
necessarily  signify  a  Temple,  nor  even  a  building:  any  thing 
containing  what  was  sacred  received  this  appellation ;  a  Cave; 
a  Grove  ;  a  portable  Shrine  ;  and  perhaps  a  Clepsydra.  There 
were,  however,  many  Temples  in  Argos.  There  were  also 
Sepulchres  and  Coenotaphs  ;  a  Theatre;  a  Forum;  a  Mound  of 
Earth',  believed  to  be  the  Tomb  of  the  head  of  the  Gorgon 
Medusa ;  a  Gymnasium ;  and  a  subterraneous  edifice.  After  this, 
beginning  his  ascent  towards  the  Acropolis,  Pausanias  notices 
the  Hieron  of  Juno  Acrcva,  and  a  Temple  of  Apollo,  situated 
upon  a  ridge  called  Diras*.  Here  was  an  Oracle,  where 
answers  were  given  so  lately  as  the  time  when  Pausanias  saw 
the  temple.  Close  to  this  temple  there  was  also  a  Stadium*', 
and  this  circumstance  is  enough  to  prove  that  by  Diras 
Pausanias    does    not    mean    the  summit    of   the    hill;    for 

after 


(i)   'ErrKpayiararoy.  lib.  ii.   c.  1().   p.  152.     ed.  Kuhnii. 

(2)  Tv'^/c  effrlv  k  iraXaiotdrov  NA02.     Ibid.  c.  20.  p.  154. 

(3)  'fljOfJc  'IEPON  evriv.    -Ibid.   p.  155. 

(4)  X«>a   yij'j   itrnv,    lv    U   aur?    KeltrQat   t>)v  Mccovcrtjr    Xiyovffi    rijs  Topy6vot 
KefaXtjy.      Ibid.  p.  159- 

(5)  "On  Kai  6  roirot;  ovtok  KaXehat  AEIPAS.      Ibid.  C.  24.  p.  165. 

(6)  Ibid. 


ARGOS 


673 


after  leaving  the  Stadium  he  continues  his  ascent  by  the  chap.xvi. 
monument  of  the  sons  of  JEgyptus,  on  the  left-hand  side  of 
his  road,  until  he  arrives  (W  axga)  upon  the  summit  called 
Larissa,  where  he  finds  the  temples  of  Jupiter  Larissceus 
and  of  Minerva.  And  in  a  subsequent  part  of  his  description, 
speaking  of  the  roads  from  Argos  to  Mantinasa7,  and  to 
Lyrcea%  he  says  they  began  from  the  gates  near  Diras; 
consequently  the  Oracular  Temple  must  have  been  lower 
than  the  summit,  although  upon  the  hill  of  the  Acropolis. 
With  so  much  information,  and  some  of  the  monuments 
yet  remaining  in  Argos,  it  would  not  be  difficult  for  a 
traveller,  having  leisure  and  opportunity,  to  complete  a  plan 
of  the  antient  city.  This  our  time  would  not  permit ;  but  we 
ascertained  some  of  the  antiquities  :  and  first  the  Theatre,  Antiquities. 
upon  the  south-eastern  side  of  the  hill  of  the  Acropolis  ;  one 
of  the  principal  objects  noticed  by  Pausanias  upon  entering 
the  city.     Some  of  the  sepulchres  also  may  be  observed. 

The  Theatre  is  a  very  remarkable  structure.  As  usual,  Theatre. 
it  is  entirely  an  excavation  of  the  rock;  but  it  differs 
from  every  other  theatre  we  saw  in  Greece,  in  having  two 
wings,  with  seats,  one  on  either  side  of  the  Cavea ;  so  that 
it  might  be  described  as  a  triple  Coil-on.  We  could  not 
conceive  for  what  purpose  these  side  cavities  were  designed ; 
unless  for  minor  representations  ;  or  as  steps  in  ascending  to 
the  central  sweep  :  but  if  the  latter  were  intended,   there 

would 


VOL.  III. 


(7)  Pausan.  Corinth,  c.25.  p.  167. 

(8)  Ibid. 

4  R 


^M        sSPfs  SfSff  g££  SfS^tf-j  ■ 


674 


CHAP.  XVI. 


Huron  of 
Venus. 


PELOPONNESUS. 

would  have  been  no  necessity  for  the  curved  shape  that  has 
been  given  to  them ;  making  the  whole  structure  wear  the 
appearance  rather  of  three  theatres  than  of  one.  Within  the 
centre  Cavea  there  were  sixty-four  seats  remaining ;  the 
height  of  each  seat  being  thirteen  inches.  Opposite  to  this 
structure  are  the  remains  of  a  very  large  edifice,  built  entirely 
of  tiles ;  probably  a  part  of  the  Castellum  {•xju^'ov)  which 
was  near  to  the  Theatre ;  called  Criterion,  once  a  court  or 
tribunal  of  judgment.  Above  the  Theatre1  was  the 
Hieron  of  Venus;  and  this  we  certainly  found.  Within  this 
temple  there  was  a  statue  of  the  Poetess  Telesilla,  the 
Manuella  Sancho  of  her  day;  who,  like  the  modern 
heroine  of  Saragossa  at  the  head  of  a  band  of  female 
warriors,  repelled  from  the  walls  of  the  city  the  enemies  of 
her  country,  when  the  Lacedaemonians  attacked  Argos. 
'*  She  was  represented,"  says  Pausanias*,  "  standing  upon  a 
pillar,  with  the  books  of  her  poetry  scattered  at  her  feet,  in 
the  act  of  regarding  a  helmet  which  she  was  about  to  put 
upon  her  head."  And  when  the  Spanish  Telesilla,  who  has 
so  nobly  followed  the  example  offered  by  her  Grecian 
predecessor,  shall  have  a  monument  consecrated  to  the 
memory  of  her  illustrious  achievements,  her  countrymen 
may    find   in    this    description    a    classical    model   for    its 

design. 


(1)  The  expression  is  wrip  It  to  Qiarpov :  and  this  by  Amasaeus  (vid.  Pans.  Cor. 
r.  20.  p.  156.  ed.  Kuhnii)  is  rendered  supra  theatrum  ;  but  wrip,  in  many  instances, 
is  by  Pausanias  used  to  signify  leyond ;  that  is  to  say,  the  next  object  occurring  in 
the  line  of  his  observation.  In  this  instance  the  building  alluded  to  was  above  the 
Theatre,  upon  the  hill  towards  the  Acropolis. 

(2)  Vid.  Paus.  in  Corinth,  c.20.  pp.  156,  157.    ed.  Kuhnii. 


A  11  G  O  S. 


675 


design.  The  site  of  the  Hieron  is  now  occupied  by  a  Greek  tCHAp.  xvr. 
chapel,  but  it  contains  the  remains  of  columns  whose 
capitals  are  of  the  most  antient  Corinthian  order ;  a  style  of 
building  unknown  in  our  country,  scarcely  a  model  of  it 
having  ever  been  seen  in  England ;  although  it  far  exceeds 
in  beauty  and  simplicity  the  gaudy  and  crowded  foliage  of 
the  later  Corinthian.  The  temples  of  Venus  being  generally 
of  the  Corinthian  order,  we  have  reason  to  believe  that  the 
Hieron,  in  this  instance,  was  one  of  them  ;  and  we  have  there- 
fore, in  this  chapel,  another  point  of  observation,  as  a  beacon, 
in  ascertaining  the  antiquities  enumerated  by  Pausanias. 
We  observed  this  building  in  our  way  down  from  the  Citadel 
towards  the  sea ;  therefore  it  will  be  better  to  describe  the 
objects  first  noticed  in  our  ascent  from  the  modern  town. 

Going  up  to  the  fortress,  we  saw  towards  our  left, 
that  is  to  say,  upon  the  north-eastern  side  of  the  hill 
of  the  Acropolis,  the  ridge  called  Diras  by  Pausanias, 
where  the  Temple  of  Apollo  Diradiotes  was  situated. 
A  monastery  now  occupies  the  site  of  the  temple,  standing 
upon  a  high  rock,  with  precipices  above  and  below. 
It  is  said  to  contain  a  cavern,  well  suited  to  the  contri- 
vance necessary  for  the  oracles5  delivered  here  in  the  time 
of  that  author.  Afterwards,  as  we  proceeded,  we  saw  the 
remains  of  antient  works  also  upon  our  left ;  and  it  was  upon 
his  left  hand  in  ascending  to  the  Acropolis  that  Pausanias 

observed 


(3)  See  Gelis  It'ni.  of  Greece,  p.  67.  Mr.  Gell  says,  there  is  here  also  space 
enough  for  a  Stadium ;  and  this  agrees  with  the  description  of  Pausanias,  who  says 
the  Stadium  adjoined  the  Temple  of  Apollo. 


Diras. 


■■       p*p*       ggg  $m 


6^6  PELOPONNESUS. 

■Cr?AIJ™'  observed  a  monument  of  the  sons  of  MgyptusK  The  way  up 
a  mountain  is  little  liable  to  alteration  ;  and  probably  the 
track  we  pursued  was  nearly,  if  not  entirely,  the  same  that 
was  trodden  by  him.  The  fortress  itself  is  evidently  a 
modern  building,  for  its  walls  contain  fragments  of  anti- 
quities used  as  materials  in  building  them';  but  on  the  sides 
cyclopia.  and  lower  part  of  it  we  observed  the  remains  of  Qyclope'an 
architecture,  as  antient  as  the  Citadel  of  Tiryns,  and  built  in 
the  same  style.  This  structure  is  mentioned  by  Pausanias, 
in  his  seventh  book  ;  where  he  states  that  the  inhabitants  of 
Mycenae  were  unable  to  demolish  the  wall  of  the  Argives, 
built,  like  that  of  Tiryns,  by  the  Cyclops3.  The  Cyclopean 
ivalls  and  towers  of  Argos  are  also  noticed  by  Euripides, 
Polybius,  and  Seneca.  Hence  we  had  a  glorious  view  of 
almost  all  Argolis,  and  great  part  of  the  Arcadian  territory, 
even  to  the  mountains  of  Laconia,  visible  from  this 
eminence4.  Placed  centrally  with  regard  to  the  Sinus 
Argolicus,  the  eye  surveys  the  Laconian  and  Argolic  Pro- 
montories ;  and  looks  down  upon  Nauplia,  Tiryns,  and  all 
the  south-western  side  of  the  Gulph,  almost  with  the  same 
facility  as  it  regards   the   streets  of  Argos.     We   saw   the 

A  Icyonian 


(1)  'Ec  oi  Ttjv  dk'poTroXiv  iovaiv  %ffTiv  iv  dptanpq  rrjc    o£ov  tmv  Alyvrrov  runu' 
Kal  tuvttj  nvtjfxa.     Pausan.  in  Corinth,  c.  24.  p.  165.    ed.  Kuhnii. 

(2)  Mr.  Gell  found  here  a  very  antient  Inscription  j  and  says  that  VUloison  intimate} 
the  existence  of  a  very  curious  one  at  Argos.     See  Win.  of  Greece,  p.  68.    Land.  1S10, 

(3)  Pausan.  in  Corinth,  lib.  vii.  c.  25.  p.  589-    ed.  Kuhnii. 

(4)  See  this  prospect  as  engraved  from  a  most  accurate  drawing  made  upon  thi 
spot  by  Mr.  Gell.     [tin.  of  Greece,  Plate  xix.  p.  68.     Land.  1810. 


A  R  G  O  S. 


677 


CHAP.  XVI. 


AJcifoman  Lake  in  the  last  direction,  now  a  weedy  pool5 

the  natives  of  Argos  relate  of  it,  as  did  Pausanias6,  that    Aicyonian 

°  '  Lake. 

nothing  swims  upon  its  waters.  On  this  side  of  the  Gulph 
we  saw  also  the  Plain  of  herna,  once  fabled  to  be  infested 
with  the  Hydra;  and,  in  the  same  direction,  the  road 
leading  to  TripoUzza,  until  it  lost  itself  in  the  mountains ; 
following  with  our  eyes  great  part  of  a  journey  we  were 
desirous  to  accomplish  more  effectually. 

Hence  we  descended  towards  the  sea;  and  came  to  the 
remains  of  the  Temple  of  Venus  before  mentioned,  above  the 
Theatre,  where  the  Greek  chapel  is  situated7.  We  were 
unable  to  discover  any  remains  of  the  Stadium  ;  but  this,  in  all 
probability,  will  not  elude  the  researches  of  other  travellers. 
After  again  visiting  the  Theatre,  we  found,  at.  the  foot  of 
the  hill  of  the  Acropolis,  one  of  the  most  curious  tell-tale 
remains  yet  discovered  among  the  vestiges  of  Pagan  priest- 
craft :  it  was  nothing  less  than  one  of  the  Oracular  Shrines 

of 


Oracular 
Shrine. 


(5)  There  cannot,  however,  be  much  alteration  in  this  piece  of  water  since  the 
time  of  Pausanias ;  who  describes  it  as  a  pool,  measuring  in  diameter  only  one  third 
of  a  stadium  (about  seventy-three  yards),  and  lying  amongst  grass  and  bulrushes. 
(Vid.  Pausan.  in  Corinth,  c.  37.  p.  200.  ed.  Kuhnii.)  As  to  its  prodigious  depth,  it 
would  be  curious  to  ascertain  what  foundation  there  was  for  the  account  given  of  its 
fathomless  nature,  by  the  same  author ;  who  relates  that  Nero  could  not  reach  the 
bottom  with  lead  fastened  to  ropes  many  stadia  in  length. 

(6)  The  account  given  of  it  by  Pausanias  is,  that  it  draws  persons  to  the  bottom 
who  venture  to  swim  upon  its  surface.  The  same  sort  of  story  is  often  related,  by  the 
common  people  in  this  country,  of  any  deep  water. 

(7)  Mr.  Gell  afterwards  found  here  a  broken  Inscription,  "  evidently,"  he  says, 
"  relating  to  Venus."  It  were  to  be  wished,  although  a  fragment,  that  he  had 
preserved  and  published  it;  as  an  inscription  so  decidedly  identifying  one  of  the 
beacons  mentioned  by  Pausanias  would  materially  tend  to  facilitate  future  researches 
upon  the  spot.     See  Gells  Itin.  of  Greece,  p,  64.     Lond.  1810. 


|HH  HM      H^?    '  «SJ»J»   fT?pr«nEJjffC 


678 


CHAP.  XVI. 


PELOPONNESUS. 

of  Argos  alluded  to   by  Pausanias,  laid  open  to  inspection, 
like  the  toy  a  child  has  broken  in   order  that  he  may  see 
the  contrivance  whereby  it  was  made  to  speak.    A  more- 
interesting    sight    for    modern     curiosity    can    hardly    be 
conceived  to  exist  among  the  ruins  of  any  Grecian  city.. 
In  its  original   state,   it  had  been  a  temple  ;   the  farther  part: 
from  the  entrance,  where  the  altar  was,  being  an  excavationi 
of  the  rock,  and  the  front  and  roof  constructed  with  baked 
tiles.     The  altar  yet  remains,  and  part  of  the  fictile  super- 
structure :    but   the    most  remarkable    part  of   the    whole 
is  a  secret  subterraneous   passage,  terminating  behind  the 
altar  ;  its  entrance  being  at  a  considerable  distance  towards 
the   right  of  a  person  facing  the  altar ;  and  so  cunningly 
contrived  as  to  have  a  small  aperture,  easily  concealed,  and 
level  with  the  surface  of  the  rock.     This  was  barely  large 
enough   to   admit   the  entrance   of  a   single   person ;    who 
having   descended    into   the   narrow  passage,    might   creep 
along  until  he  arrived   immediately  behind   the   center   of 
the  altar;    where,   being   hid    by   some   colossal    statue  or 
other  screen,  the  sound  of  his  voice  would  produce  a  most 
imposing    effect    among    the    humble    votaries,    prostrate 
beneath,  who  were  listening  in  silence  upon  the  floor  of  the 
sanctuary.      We   amused  ourselves  for  a  few  minutes  by 
endeavouring  to  mimic  the  sort  of  solemn  farce  acted  upon 
these  occasions :  and  as  we  delivered  a   mock  oracle,  ore 
rotunda,  from  the  cavernous  throne  of  the  altar,  a  rever- 
beration,   caused    by    the   sides    of  the   rock,    afforded    a 
tolerable   specimen  of  the  "  will  of  the  Gods"   as  it  was 
formerly  made  known  to   the    credulous  votaries   of  this 

now- 


CHAP.  XVI. 


A  R  G  O  S.  679 

now-forgotten  shrine.  There  were  not  fewer  than  twenty- 
five  of  these  juggling  places  in  Peloponnesus,  and  as  many 
in  the  single  province  of  Boeotia :  and  surely  it  will  never 
again  become  a  question  among  learned  men,  whether 
the  answers  in  them  were  given  by  the  inspiration  of  evil 
spirits,  or  whether  they  proceeded  from  the  imposture  of 
priests ;  neither  can  it  again  be  urged  that  they  ceased  at 
the  birth  of  Christ;  because  Pausanias  bears  testimony  to 
their  existence  at  Argos  in  the  second  century1.  Perhaps  it 
was  to  the  particular  shrine  now  described  that  his  evidence 
refers  :  its  position,  however,  does  not  exactly  warrant  this 
opinion  ;  for  the  oracle  he  mentions  corresponded  rather 
with  the  situation  of  the  monastery  upon  a  ridge  of  the  hill 
of  the  Acropolis.  In  this  situation  he  places  other  shrines  ; 
namely,  the  Hieron  of  Jupiter  Saviour,  together  with  a  cell 
(ol'xrspa)  or  abiding  place,  where  the  Argive  women  were 
wont  to  mourn  the  death  of  Adonis2:  and  as  not  only 
Heathen  deities,  but  also  heroes,  were  rendered  subservient  to 
these  purposes  of  priestcraft,  the  worship  of  Adonis  might 
have  contributed  to  swell  the  list  of  temples  where  oracles 
were  delivered.  Near  to  the  same  spot  we  saw  the  remains  other  Re- 
of  an  Aqueduct :  and  to  this  there  seems  also  an  allusion  by  city™ c 
Pausanias,  in  the  obscure  account  he  gives  of  a  channel 

conducting 


(1)  Ma vTtvi rat    yap    'en    ku\    c?    tyyuac.      Vid.  Pausan.   in    Corinth,  c.  24.   p.  1&5. 
ed.  Kuhnii. 

(2)  Kai  Aid',  ianv  ivravda  iepov  (Tu>Ttjpos.  ical  vapiovoiv    eli  to  o'ticijjua,   ivravda 
rdv    ABuviv  ui  yvvaiKCt  'A/jyuW  olvpovTCU.     Ibid.  c.  20.  p.  156. 


•';r*r;  WW;l 


680 


PELOPONNESUS. 


chap.  xvi.  conducting  the  water  of  the  Cephissus  beneath  a  temple 
dedicated  to  that  river1.  But  there  are  other  appearances  of 
subterraneous  structures  requiring  considerable  attention  ; 
some  of  these  are  upon  the  hill :  they  are  covered,  like  the 
Cyclopean  gallery  of  Tiryns,  with  large  approaching  stones, 
meeting  so  as  to  form  an  arched  way  which  is  only  visible 
where  these  stones  are  open2.  Among  them  the  traveller 
may  look  for  the  subterraneous  edifice  with  the  brazen 
Thalamus  constructed  by  Acrisius  for  his  daughter3.  There 
is  also  a  large  church  at  the  southern  extremity  of  the 
town,  containing  fragments  of  Ionic  columns  and  inscrip- 
tions4. One  of  the  mosques  is  said  to  have  been  erected 
with  blocks  brought  from  the  Grove  of  JEsculapius  in 
Epidauria5:  the  same  circumstance  was  also  alluded  to  by 
Chandler6.  Perhaps  the  time  may  arrive  when  a  more 
enlightened  people  than  the  Turks  will  again  bring  to  light 
the  valuable  antiquities  there  concealed ;  although  the 
acquisition  should  be  obtained  even  at  so  great  an  expense 
as  that  of  taking  down  and  rebuilding  a  Mahometan  place 
of  worship. 

We  have  now  concluded   our   very  cursory  survey  of 

Argos; 


(1)  Pausan.  in  Corinth,  c.  20.  p.  156.    ed.  Kuhnii. 

(2)  Gell's  Itin.  of  Greece,  p.  66.     Lond.  1810. 

(3)  Pausan.  ut  supra,  c.  23.  p.  164. 

(4)  Gell's  Itin.  of  Greece,  p.  69. 

(5)  Ibid. 

(6)  See  Chandler's  Trav.    in  Greece,  p.  226.      Oxf.  1776.      Also  the  precediig 
Chapter  of  this  Volume. 


A  R  G  O  S. 


681 


CHAP.  XVI. 


Argos;  but  we  shall  not  quit  the  reliques  of  this  memorable 

city,  without  briefly  noticing  a  circumstance  in  its  history,     Character  of 

the  Antient 

to  which  little  attention  seems  to  have  been  paid  by  the  Argives. 
compilers  of  Grecian  annals ;  namely,  its  illustrious  cha- 
racter, as  founded  on  the  noble  examples  offered  in  the 
actions  of  its  citizens.  If  Athens,  by  arts,  by  military  talents, 
and  by  costly  solemnities,  became  •"  one  of  the  Eyes  of 
Greece,"  there  was  in  the  humanity  of  Argos,  and  in  the  good 
feeling  frequently  displayed  by  its  inhabitants,  a  distinction 
which  comes  nearer  to  the  heart.  Something  characteristic 
of  the  people  may  be  observed  even  in  a  name  given  to 
one  of  their  Divinities;  for  they  worshipped  a  "  God  of 
Meekness1."  It  may  be  said,  perhaps,  of  the  Argive  cha- 
racter, that  it  was  less  splendid  than  the  Athenian,  and 
less  rigid  than  the  Lacedaemonian,  but  it  was  also  less 
artificial ;  and  the  contrast  it  exhibited,  when  opposed  to  the 
infamous  profligacy  of  Corinth,  where  the  manners  of  the 
people,  corrupted  by  wealth  and  luxury,  were  further 
vitiated  by  the  great  influx  of  foreigners8,  rendered  Argos, 
in  the  days  of  her  prosperity,  one  of  the  most  enviable  cities 
of  Greece.     The  stranger  who  visited  Athens  might  indeed 

regard 


(7)  The  Argives  gave  to  one  of  their  Gods  the  name,  MuXiyiov  Aioc,  of  the  Meek 
God,  or  Mild  Jupiter.     Vid.  Pausan.  in  Cor.  c.  20.  p.  154. 

(8)  "  Ex  hac  peregrinorum  horainum  colluvie,  necesse  erat  et  civium  mores  cor- 
rumpi.  Quapropter  Lacedaemonii,  quorum  gravis  et  severa  semper  fuit  Resp.  nullos 
ad  se  peregrinos  recipiebant,  ne  alienigenis  ritibus  urbis  optime  constitute  status  ever- 
teretur."  Gerbclius  in  Corinth.  Descript.  ap.  Gronov.  Thes.  Grcec.  Antiq.  torn.  IV.  p.  51. 
L.  Bat.  1699. 

VOL.  III.  4  S 


U&33U 


^y.flr/ij  %i'kj-'-- 


■ 


682 


CHAP.  XVI. 


View  of  the 
Argive  Plain. 


PELOPONNESUS. 

regard  with  an  eager  curiosity  the  innumerable  trophies 
everywhere  suspended,  of  victors  in  her  splendid  games ; 
might  admire  her  extensive  porticoes,  crowded  with  philo- 
sophers ;  might  gaze  with  wonder  at  the  productions  of 
her  artists;  might  revere  her  magnificent  temples; — but 
feelings  more  affecting  were  called  forth  in  beholding  the 
numerous  monuments  of  the  Argives,  destined  to  perpetuate 
the  memory  of  individuals  who  had  rendered  themselves 
illustrious  only  by  their  virtues1. 

On  Tuesday  morning,  November  the  tenth,  we  took 
leave  of  the  hospitable  Baratary,  fraught  with  a  rich  cargo 
of  Grecian  pottery ;  and  set  out  for  Mycence,  the  city  of 
Agamemnon,  anticipating  a  treat  among  those  Ruins  for 
which  Lusieri  had  already  prepared  us.  We  entered  the 
spacious  Plain  of  Argos,  level  as  the  still  surface  of  a  calm 
sea,  and  extending  in  one  rich  field,  with  the  most  fertile 
soil,  from  the  mouths  of  the  Inachus  towards  the  north. 
Having  again  crossed  the  dry  channel  of  the  XAPAAPfiAHX 
IIOTAMOI,  and  looking  back  towards  the  Larissean  Citadel,  the 
lofty  conical  hill  of  the  Acropolis  appeared  rising  in  the  midst 
of  this  plain,  as  if  purposely  contrived  to  afford  a  bulwark  for 
dominion,  and  for  the  possession  of  this  valuable  land ;  which, 

like 


(])  Witness  the  filial  piety  of  Cleolis  and  Biton,  to  whom  the  Argives  also  erected 
statues  at  Delphi;  the  heroism  of  Telesilla,  in  rescuing  the  city  from  its  enemies  5  the 
conduct  of  another  Argive  woman,  who  saved  her  son's  life  by  slaying  Pyrrhus ;  &c. 
&c.  "  Heec  urls  plurimis  exemplis  ad  virtutem  nos  excitantihus  alundavit."  Gerbel. 
ap.  Gronov.  &c.  p.  52. 


Hiuiitifiyi 


FROM  ARGOS  TO  MYCEN M. 


683 


like  a  vast  garden,  is  walled  in  by  mountains".     Such  was     chap. xvi. 

the  inviting  aspect  exhibited  by  the  Argive  territory  to  the 

earliest  settlers  in  this  country.     No  labour  was  necessary, 

as  amidst  the  forests  and  unbroken  soil  of  the  North  of 

Europe  and  of  America :  the  colonies,  upon  their  arrival, 

found  an  open  field,  with  a  rich  impalpable  soil,   already 

prepared  by  Providence  to  yield  an  abundant  harvest  to  the 

first  adventurer  who  should  scatter  seed  upon  its   surface. 

We    cannot   therefore   wonder,  that  within    a  district   not 

containing  more   square  miles  than  the  most   considerable 

of  our  English  parishes,  there  should  have  been  established, 

in    the  earliest  periods  of  its  history,   four   capital    cities, 

Argos,  Mycenae,  Tiryns,  and  Nauplia,  each  contending  with 

the  other  for  superiority ;  or  that  every  roaming  colony  who 

should  chance  to  explore  the  Argolic  Gulph  endeavoured  to 

fortify  a  position  upon   some  rock  near  to  the  plain,  and 

struggle  for  its  possession.     This  is  all  that  seems  necessary 

to   illustrate   the   first    dawnings  of  government,  not  only 

within    this   district,   but   in   every   part    of  the    HeUenian 

territories :  and  the  fables  transmitted  from  one  generation 

to  another,  concerning  the  contest  between  Neptune  and  Juno    Fabulous  Con- 

test  between 

for  the  country,  as  between  Neptune  and  Minerva  for  Attica,    Neptune  and 
may   be    regarded  as  so  many   records    of  those   physical 
revolutions,  in  preceding  ages,  which   gave   birth  to  these 
fertile  regions ;  when  the  waters  of  the  sea  slowly  retired 
from  the  land ;  or,  according  to  the  language  of  poetry  and 

fable, 


(2)  See  the  former  Section,  Ch.  IV.  p.  74,  on  the  allurements  offered  to  the  early 
settlers  in  Greece  by  the  appearance  of  the  country. 


684 


PELOPONNESUS. 


:hap.xvi.    fab]e.   were  said   to  have  reluctantly  abandoned  the  plains 
of  Greece1. 

About  five  miles  from  Argos,  on  the  left  side  of  the 
road,  we  found  the  remains  of  an  antient  structure,  which  at 
first  we  supposed  to  be  those  of  the  Herceum,  a  temple  once 
common  to  the  two  cities  of  Mycence  and  Argos;  when 
the  twin  brothers,  Acrisius  and  Proctus,  who  were  grandsons 
of  Belus,  possessed  the  two  capitals,  and  worshipped  the  same 
tutelary  Deity2.  This  position  of  it  corresponds,  in  some 
degree,  with  its  situation,  according  to  Pausanias  ;  but  not  in 
all  respects.  He  describes  the  distance  from  Mycence  to  Argos 
as  equal  to  fifty  stadia  (6|  miles),  and  the  Herceum  as  being 
at  the  distance  of  fifteen  stadia  (one  mile  and  seven  furlongs) 
from  that  city.  But  he  places  it  to  the  left3  of  the  city,  and 
upon  the  lower  part4  of  a  mountain  near  a  flowing  stream  called 
Eleutherion.  The  last  observations  do  not  permit  us  to 
consider  the  remains  of  this  structure  as  being  any  part  of 
the  Herceum;  as  they  are  situated  in  the  plain,  and  not  close 
to  any  rivulet  or  water-course.  But  near  to  this  structure 
there  was  another  Ruin,  whose  foundations  more  resembled 

the 


(1)  By  attention  to  natural  phenomena  upon  the  spot,  some  light  may  certain! j 
be  thrown  upon  the  antient  fables  of  the  country.  A  very  happy  illustration  of  the 
origin  of  the  Hydra,  which  infested  the  Plain  of  Lerna,  near  Argos,  was  taken  from  the 
MS.  Journal  of  the  Earl  of  Aberdeen,  by  Mr.  Gell,  and  is  found  in  a  Note  to  his  Work 
See  1  tin.  of  Greece,  p.  /Q.     Loud.  IS  JO. 

(2)  Kcu    to  'Hpaiov   Etvai    koivov    icpov   to   irpoc    tois    MvKrjpaic   d/Aibolv,   K.  r.  X 
Strabon.  Geog    lib.  viii.  p.  539.     Ed.  Oxon. 

(3)  Vid.  Paus  n    in  Corinth,  c.  17.  p.  147.    Ed.Kuhnii. 

(4)  Vid.  Pausan.  ut  supra. 


FROM    ARGOS  TO  MYCEN.E. 


685 


the  oblong  form  of  a  temple:  it  was  built  with  baked  chap. xvi. 
bricks,  and  originally  lined  with  marble.  Here,  then,  there 
seems  every  reason  to  believe  we  discovered  the  remains  mermot 
of  the  whole  Hieron  of  Ceres  Mysias,  noticed  by  Pausanias 
in  his  road  from  My  cents  to  Argos,  by  a  description  very  appli- 
cable to  these  Ruins.  He  says5  the  building  had  no  roof,  but 
contained  within  another  temple  of  brick-work;  and  that 
the  traveller  going  thence  towards  Argos,  arrived  at  the 
river  Inachus.  In  the  different  facts  the  Reader  may  have 
collected  from  this  and  the  preceding  Chapter,  concerning 
the  remains  of  antient  art  in  Argolis,  he  will  have  perceived 
the  very  general  prevalence  of  terra  cotta  in  works  of  much 
higher  antiquity  than  it  is  usual  to  suppose  were  constructed    Antiquity  of 

.  ...  .  .  fictile  materi- 

ol  this  material.  A  vulgar  notion  has  prevailed,  that  this  ais  in  building, 
style  of  building  was  for  the  most  part  Roman.  When  tiles 
or  bricks  have  been  found  in  the  walls  and  foundations  of 
edifices,  among  the  ruins  of  Eastern  cities,  it  has  been 
usual  to  attribute  to  the  structure  a  Roman  origin,  and, 
consequently,  to  consider  works  of  this  kind  as  of  a  date 
posterior  to  the  decline  of  the  Eastern  Empires.  That  this 
mode  of  ascertaining  the  age  of  buildings  is  liable  to  error 
may  perhaps  now  be  evident.  The  statement  of  a  single 
fact,  if  other  satisfactory  evidence  could  not  be  adduced, 
would  be  sufficient  to  prove  the  antiquity  of  such  works ; 
for  example,  that  of  the  tile,  or  brick6,  whereby  the  scull 

of 


(5)  Vid.  Pausan.  in  Corinth,  c.  IS.  p.  150.     Ed.  Kuhnii. 

(6)  Kepct/Aos.     Vid.  Pausan.  Attica,  c.  13.  p.  33.   Ed.  Kuhnii. 


^H 


jjBSjff         9R9EI  b5hi< 


CHAP.  XVI. 


fo'gb'  PELOPONNESUS. 

of  Pyrrhus  was  fractured,  when  he  attempted  to  take  the 
city  of  Argos  by  storm.  Indeed,  in  some  instances,  the 
Romans,  finding  antient  structures  in  Greece  had  gone  to 
decay  because  they  were  built  with  baked  or  crude  tiles  and 
bricks,  repaired  them  with  different  materials.  Of  this  there 
is  an  example  recorded  by  Pausanias,  and  already  alluded  to 
in  the  account  of  Epidauria1.  After  leaving  this  Ruin,  we 
returned  into  the  road  ;  and  quitting  the  plain,  bore  off 
upon  our  right,  towards  the  east,  by  a  rocky  ascent  along 
the  channel  of  a  water- course,  towards  the  regal  residence 
Mycence.  of  Agamemnon,  and  city  of  Perseus,  built  before  the  War 

of  Troy,  full  thirteen  centuries  anterior  to  the  Christian 
cera.  Already  the  walls  of  the  Acropolis  began  to  appear 
upon  an  eminence  between  two  lofty  conical  mountains : 
the  place  is  now  called  Carvato.  Even  its  Ruins  were 
unknown  eighteen  hundred  years  ago,  when  Straho  wrote  his 
account  of  the  Peloponnesus  :  he  says  of  Mycence,  that  not  a 
vestige  of  the  city  remained2.  Eighty  of  its  heroes  accom- 
panied the  Spartans  to  the  defile  of  Thermopylae,  and  share! 
with  them  the  glory  of  their  immortal  deed3:  this  so  muci 
excited  the  jealousy  of  the  sister  city,  Argos,  that  it  was 
never  afterwards  forgiven :  the  Argives,  stung  by  the  recol- 
lection of  the  opportunity  they  had  thus  lost  of  signalizing 

themselves, 


(1)  Pausan.  Corinth,  c.  T] .      See  also  the  preceding  Chapter  of  this  Volume. 

(2)  ''flare    vvv    p,t\V   i-^voe  EvpiaKtaQai  rjjic    Mi/o/vcuW    ndXtac.      Strabon.  Geot. 
lib.  viii.  p.  540.     Ed.  Oxon. 

(3)  Pausan.  Corinth,  c.  16.  p.  140.     Ed.  Kuhnii. 


MYCENjE. 


687 


Ruins. 


themselves,  and  unable  to  endure  the  superior  fame  of  their  chap.xvi. 
neighbour,  made  war  against  Mycence,  and  destroyed  the 
city4:  this  happened  in  the  first  year  of  the  seventy-eighth 
Olympiad5;  nearly  five  centuries  before  the  birth  of  Christ. 
"In  that  region,"  says  Pausanias,  "  which  is  called  Argolis, 
nothing  is  remembered  of  greater  antiquity  than  this  circum- 
stance6." It  is  not  merely  the  circumstance  of  seeing  the 
architecture  and  the  sculpture  of  the  heroic  ages,  which 
renders  a  view  of  Mycence  one  of  the  highest  gratifications 
a  literary  traveller  can  experience:  the  consideration  of  its  state  of  the 
remaining,  at  this  time,  exactly  as  Pausanias  saw  it  in  the 
second  century,  and  in  such  a  state  of  preservation  that  an 
alto-relievo  described  by  him  yet  exists  in  the  identical  position 
he  has  assigned  for  it,  adds  greatly  to  the  interest  excited  by 
these  remarkable  Ruins :  indeed,  so  singularly  does  the 
whole  scene  correspond  with  his  account  of  the  place,  that, 
in  comparing  them  together,  it  might  be  supposed  a  single 
hour  had  not  elapsed  since  he  was  himself  upon  the  spot. 
The  first  thing  that  we  noticed,  as  we  drew  nigh  to  the 
gate  of  the  city,  was  an  antient  Tumulus  of  immense  size,  upon 
our  light,  precisely  similar,  in  its  form  and  covering,  to  those 
conical  sepulchres  so  frequently  the  subject  of  allusion  in 
these  Travels ;  whether  called  barrows,  cairns,  mounds, 
heaps,  or  by  whatever  other  name,  (as  for  example,  Tepe 
by  the  Turks,  and  rktpog  and  yfifJM  by  tne  Greeks,)  they  are 

now 


Extraordinary 
Sepulchre. 


(4)  Mh')/)'(ic  ([  'Apyeioi  KaOuXou  vrro  ^rfKoTViriai.      Ibid. 

(5)  B.C.  466'.     See  Chandler's  Trav.  in  Greece,  p.  230.    Oxf.  1776. 

(6)  E;-  ydp   T2]  vvv    'Apyokifii  ovo^a^Ofxivrf    tu  p.iv  tn    irdkaioTipa  ov  fivt)p\o- 
vsjjovcriv.     Pausan.  ut  supra,  c.  15.  p.  144. 


!»W^ 


r'iK: 


r»«^?  ■)l*»-*^r,<*  ^jr-  ^^m 


688 


PELOPONNESUS. 


chap.  xvi.    now  pretty  well  understood  to  have  all  of  them   reference 
to  a  people  of  the  most  remote  antiquity  (possibly  the  Celtce)), 
and  to  have  been  raised  for  sepulchral  purposes.     Particular 
stress  is  now  laid  upon  this  circumstance,  for  reasons  thait 
will  presently    appear.     This  Tumulus  has   evidently  been 
opened  since  it  was  first  constructed,  and  thereby  its  interior 
has   been   disclosed;    but  at   what   time   this    happened   iis 
quite  uncertain ;    probably  in  a  very  remote  age,  from  the 
appearance  it  now  exhibits.     The  entrance  is  no  longer  con- 
cealed :  like  that  of  a  Tomb  described  in  the  First  Part  of  these 
Travels,  as  found  upon  the  Cimmerian  Bosporus,   the  door 
is  in  the  side  of  the  sepulchre ;  and  there  are  steps  in  front 
of  it.     A  small  aperture  in  the  vertex  of  the  cone  has  also 
been  rendered  visible,  by  the  removal  of  the  soil ;  but  this, 
as  well  as  the  entrance  in  the  side,  was  once  closed,  when 
the  mound  was  entire  and   the  Tumulus  remained  inviolate. 
All  the  rest  of  the  external  part  is  a  covering  of  earth  and 
turf;  such  as   we  see  in  every  country  where  the   Tumuli 
appear.     We  ascended  along  the   outside   to  the  top  :  and 
had  it  not  been  for  the  circumstances  now  mentioned,  we 
should  have   considered    it    in    all    respects   similar   to   the 
Tombs  in  the  Plain  of  Troy,  or  in  the  South  of  Russia,  or 
in  any   of  the    Northern   countries   of  Europe.     But   this 
Sepulchre,  among  modern  travellers,  has  received  the  appel- 
lation of  The  brazen  Treasury  of  A  trcus  and  his  sons ;    an 
assumption  requiring   more   of  historical   document   in    its 
support,  than  has  yet  been  adduced  to  substantiate  the  fact. 
In  the  first  place,  it  may  be  asked,  what  rational  pretext  can 
be  urged  to  prove,  either  that  the  treasury  of  Atreus  was 

brazen, 


not  the  Trea- 
sury of  Atreus 


-"•-•*■-' 


M  YCENTjE. 


689 


brazen,  or  that  this  was  the  treasury?  The  whole  seems  to  chap.xvi. 
rest  upon  the  discovery  of  a  few  brass  nails  within  the 
Sepulchre ;  used  evidently  for  the  purpose  of  fastening  on 
something  wherewith  the  interior  surface  of  the  cone  was 
formerly  lined  :  but  allowing  that  the  whole  of  the  inward 
sheathing  consisted  of  brass  plates,  what  has  this  fact  to  do 
with  the  subterraneous  cells  or  dwellings  (uroyuta,  oixoiof&JifM&ra) 
where  the  treasures  of  Atreus  were  deposited  ?  Cells  of  bronze 
were  consistent  with  the  antient  customs  of  all  Argolis  : 
there  was  a  Cell  of  this  description  at  Argos,  used  for  the 
incarceration  of  Danae1:  a  similar  repository  existed  in  the 
Citadel  of  Mycence,  said  to  have  been  the  hiding-place  of 
Eurystheus,  when  in  fear  of  Hercules'.  But  this  Sepulchre  is 
ivithout  the  walls  of  the  Acropolis ;  nor  can  it  be  credited 
that  any  sovereign  of  Mycence  would  construct  a  treasury 
ivithout  his  Citadel,  fortified  as  it  was  by  Cyclopean 
walls.  Pausanias,  by  whom  alone  this  subterraneous 
treasury  of  Atreus  is  mentioned,  clearly  and  indisputably 
places  it  within  the  Citadel;  close  by  the  Sepulchre  of 
the  same  monarch.  Having  passed  the  gate  of  the  city, 
and  noticed  the  Lions  over  the  lintel,  he  speaks  of 
the  Cyclopean  wall  surrounding  the  city,  and  describes 
the  antiquities  it  inclosed.  "  Among  the  Ruins  of  My- 
cenae,"  says  he3,   "  there  is   a   spring   called   Persea,    and 

the 


(1)  Vid.  Pausan.  in  Corinth,  c.  23.  p.  1(54.    Ed.  Kuhnii. 

(2)  Apollodorus,  lib.  ii.  c.  4.    Goelt.  1782. 

(3)  Mt/jo/vui/  Ie  iv  rote  EGEiiriou  Kpijvr)  re  tort  ica\ov/J.cvr]  Tlepcreia,  ical  'Arjo/«t 
Kul  tuv  7raiSojy  virdyata   olKo^ofi^fiaTa,  'cvda  oi  Qi)aavpoi  a^tai  tojv  ^pi)/LidT(ov  r)rrav. 

VOL.  III.  4  T  r^0i 


:-3^w«?u^ 


.-:*.-.»>.'***\  v:         IPHB 


iHMBMBMiVMkff 


6*90 


CHAP.  XVI. 


U'eroum  of 
Ptrseus. 


PELOPONNESUS. 

the  subterraneous  Cells  of  Alreus  and  of  his  Sons,  where  they 
kept  their  treasures :  and  there  indeed  is  the  Tomb  ofAtreas, 
and  of  all  those  whom,  returning  with  Agamemnon  from 
Troy,  iEgisthus  slew  at  supper."  Cassandra  being  of  course 
included  among  the  number,  he  observes,  that  this  circum- 
stance had  caused  a  dispute  between  the  inhabitants  of 
Mycence  and  those  of  Amy  dee  concerning  the  Monument 
(MvTJfAu)  of  Cassandra,  whether  of  the  two  cities  really 
possessed  it.  Then  he  adds,  that  another  Monument  is  also 
there,  that  of  Agamemnon  himself,  and  of  his  charioteer  Eury- 
medon:  and  he  closes  the  chapter,  saying',  "The  Sepulchres 
of  Clytcemnestra  and  JEgisthus  are  ivithout  the  walls;  not 
being  worthy  of  a  situation  where  Agamemnon  and  those 
slain  with  him  were  laid."  From  these  observations  of  Pan- 
sanias  we  learn  two  things  ;  first,  that  this  Sepulchre  could 
not  have  been  the  Treasury  of  Atreus,  because  it  is  without 
the  walls  of  the  Acropolis  ;  secondly,  that  it  cannot  be  the 
Monument  (Mvypa.)  of  Agamemnon,  according  to  Pausanias, 
because  this  was  within  the  Citadel.  If  the  names  assigned 
by  him  to  the  different  monuments  of  Mycence  may  be  con- 
sidered as  duly  authorised  by  history,  which  perhaps  is 
doubtful,  we  might  consider  it  as  the  Heroum  of  Perseus,. 
with  whose  situation  it  seems  accurately  to  correspond.     As 

soon 


TU(j>ov  Ci  can  fj.lv  'Arptuc,  cicrl  3t  Kctl   o<tovq  avv  ^Ayajxi/xvovi  Ejravi}KovTaq  t£    IX/oi 
cuirvioas  Karttyovtvoiv  Atyicdos.     Pausan.  Corinth,  c.  16.  p.  147 .    ed.  Kuhnii: 

(1)  KXvraifxvijtTTpa  £c  irdtyr/  teal  Aiyierdor  6\iyov  chroiTepoj  tov  Ttivovs.  Ivrds  Si 
umftiuidqcruv,  tvQa  'Ayaui/uvav  rt  ai/Y<k  iKfiTO  Kaloi  nvv  tKtivu  0oyfi/0*Vm.  Pausan 
ut  supra. 


MYCEN^. 

soon  as  P laus anias  leaves  the  Citadel,  and  begins  his  journey 
towards  Argos,  the  first  object  noticed  by  him  is  the  Heroum  ; 
describing  it  as  upon  his  left  hand".  His  account  therefore 
agrees  with  the  position  of  this  magnificent  Sepulchre, 
which  is  worthy  of  being  at  once  both  the  Tomb  and  the 
Temple  of  the  consecrated  founder  of  Mycence.  Here,  if 
we  had  no  other  document  to  consult  than  the  description 
of  Greece  by  that  author,  we  should  be  compelled  to 
terminate  our  inquiry  ;  but,  fortunately  for  our  subject,  we 
are  able  to  select  as  a  guide  upon  this  occasion  a  much 
more  antient  writer  than  Pausanias;  one  indeed  who  has 
cast  but  a  glimmering  light  among  the  Ruins  of  Mycence,  but 
every  ray  of  it  is  precious.  It  was  here  that  Sophocles  laid 
the  scene  of  his  Electra ;  and  evidence  sufficient  is  afforded, 
in  the  present  appearance  of  the  place,  to  prove  that  his 
allusions  to  the  city  were  founded  upon  an  actual  view  of 
its  antiquities.  When  it  is  recollected  that  these  allusions 
were  made  nearly  six  centuries  before  the  time  of  Pausanias, 
everv  inference  fairly  deducible  from  them  is  entitled  to 
consideration.  It  is  worthy  of  remark,  that  Sophocles  was 
thirty-one  years  of  age  when  Mycence  was  laid  waste  by  the 
Argives 3 ;  consequently  he  had  ample  opportunity  of  visiting 
the  city  prior  to  that  event,  and  of  gathering  from  its 
inhabitants    the   circumstances  of  its  antient  history ;  but 

Pausanias 


691 


CHAP.  xvr. 


Sop/wcles* 


(2)  'Ek   Mvkijvuv  ci   ic  "Apyoc  ipyofxtvou:  iv    dptffrepq   TleptTtug  Trapd  rrjv   ohov 
ifTTiy  HPHON.     Pausaniae  Corinthiaca,  c.  18.  p.  14Q.    ed.  Kuhnii. 

(3)  According  to  the  Arundel  Marbles,  Sophocles  died  B.C.  406,  at  the  age  of 
ninety-one,  sixty  years  after  the  capture  and  destruction  of  Mycence  by  the  Argives. 


i>JW5f-#l 


692 


PELOPONNESUS. 


Internal 
evidence  of 
Sophocles 
having'  visited 
Jthe  spot. 


chap.  xvi.  Pausanias  writing  so  long  afterwards,  although  upon  the 
spot,  could  only  collect  from  oral  testimony,  and  tradition, 
his  account  of  the  antiquities :  indeed  it  has  been  already 
shewn,  that,  when  speaking  of  Mycence,  he  says  the  inhabi- 
tants of  Argolis  remembered  nothing  more  antient  than  the 
circumstances    attending   its   downfall1. 

In  the  beginning  of  the  Electra  the  prospect  is  described  as 
it  was  viewed  by  a  spectator  upon  his  arrival  at  Mycence  ;  and 
the  beauties  of  the  poet  can  only  be  adequately  estimated  by 
persons  who  have  been  upon  the  spot.  The  best  commentary 
upon  the  drama  itself  would  be  an  accurate  representation 
of  the  very  scene,  as  it  is  exhibited  to  a  spectator  who  is 
placed  before  the  Vropylcea  of  the  Acropolis  of  Mycence. 
When  the  companion  of  Orestes  is  made  to  say,  upon 
coming  to  the  gates,  that  "  Argos  is  present  to  the  view2,  and 
that  the  Hera*um  is  upon  the  left  hand3."  the  Scholiast  has 
been  so  confounded  as  to  make  of  Argos  and  Mycence  one 
city ;  whereas  the  speaker  is  only  describing  what  the  eye 
commands  from  that  situation.  Argos  is  thence  in  view; 
making  a  conspicuous  object  upon  the  right  hand4 ;  as   the 

Herceum, 


(1)  Vid.  Pausan.  Corinth,  c.  15.  p.  144.    ed.  Kuhnii. 

(2)  To  yap,  TraXaidv"  \pyos,  ov  Vo'Sac,  TOoe. 

Sophocl.  Elect,  v.  4.  torn.  I.  p.  1 70.     Paris,  1781. 

(3)  '          —  ovl,   dpiGTtpac,   ft  ode, 
ripat;  6   xXeu-dr  vaoc 

Ibid.  vv.  11,  12.  p.  178. 

(4)  See  Plates  vm.  ix.  facing  pp.  3d,  38,  of  Gells  Itin.  of  Greece.  Lond.  1810. 
Mr.  Gell's  drawings  afford  a  valuable  commentary  upon  the  iext  of  Sophocles  in  the 
opening  of  the  Electra. 


m 


MYCENii. 


693 


CHAP.  XVI. 


Hercetun,  according  to  Pausanias,  also  did  upon  the  left". 
These  were  objects  naturally  striking  the  attention  in  the 
noble  prospect  from  the  entrance  to  the  city;  and  there 
could  not  have  been  an  individual  within  the  Theatre  at 
Athens  when  this  Tragedy  was  presented,  who  had  ever 
visited  Mycence,  that  would  not  have  been  sensible  of  the 
taste  and  accuracy  of  Sophocles,  in  making  those  remarks. 
We  may  now  see  whether  this  Tumulus  is  not  alluded  to  by 
Sophocles,  and  by  Euripides  as  well,  and  its  situation  distinctly 
pointed  out  as  being  on  the  outside  of  the  gates,  according 
to  the  usual  custom  with  regard  to  Grecian  sepulchres. 
But,  previous  to  this,  it  will  be  necessary  to  state,  that  when 
Sophocles  mentions  the  regal  seat  of  the  Kings  of  Mycence, 
he  is  not  speaking  of  a  single  building  answering  to  the 
vulgar  notion  of  a  house,  but  of  the  whole  structure  of  the 
fortress,  wherein  they  resided;  a  Citadel;  resembling  that 
of  the  Kremlin  at  Moscow,  once  inhabited  by  Russian 
sovereigns  ;  or  like  to  the  Tower  of  our  metropolis,  where  the 
English  monarchs  were  wont  to  dwell.  It  is  in  this  sense 
that  he  uses  the  word  A^a6,  with  reference  to  all  the 
buildings    inclosed  by    the   Acropolis;    and  the   gates  of  it 

are 


TlgoTvXaiec. 


(5)  MvKrjvuv  Se  iv  dpio-epq,  nhrt   dwc^i  Kal  Stica  ardBiu  to  'Wpcuov.      Pausaniae 
Corinthiaca,  c.  17.  p.  147.    e&-  Kuhnii. 


(6) 


da/net  YltXoirioiov- 


Sophocl.  Elect,  v.  10.    Paris,  1781. 


1v   t    (?>  7rarpuoy  lufxa. Ibid.  v.  69. 

Et  tov  rvpdvvov  cJupLUT  Aiyiadov  Tact;      Ibid.  v.  663. 

&6/no>v   £(76i   Tk/vc' Ibid.  v.  40. 

Karct(TTdT>)v  16umv.  Ibid.  v.  J2. 


■Bfl 


$&p*     aa^asf^flc  ^^m 


3EP|E 


694 


PELOPONNESU  S. 


chap,  xvl  are  called  Propylcea\  as  in  the  instance  of  the  Athenian 
Citadel.  This  will  be  further  evident  when  we  proceed 
to  a  description  of  the  entrance  to  the  Acropolis;  for  the 
gate  is  not  more  distinctly  alluded  to  by  Pausanias  than 
by  Sophocles  himself,  as  will  presently  appear.  Orestes, 
desirous  of  bearing  his  vows  to  his  father's  tomb,  repairs 
thither  before  he  enters  the  Propylcea ;  and  Electra,  who  is 
only  permitted  to  leave  the  Citadel  in  the  absence  of  JEgisthus, 
meets  Chrysothemis  upon  the  outside  of  the  gates,  carrying 
the  offerings  sent  by  her  mother  to  appease  the  Manes  of 
Agamemnon'1.  The  position  of  the  Sepulchre  seems  therefore 
in  all  respects  to  coincide  with  that  of  the  Tumulus  we  are 
now  describing ;  but  the  words  of  Sophocles  are  also  decisive 
as  to  its  form  ;  for  the  Tomb  of  Agamemnon  is  not  only 
called  rkqtoq,  but  also  KoKmrj3:  and  as,  in  this  Tragedy,  the  poet 
adapted  his  description  to  a  real  scene,  and  to  existing 
objects,  there  seems  reason  to  believe  that,  in  his  time  at 
least,  this  remarkable  Sepulchre  was  considered  by  the  inha- 
bitants of  Mycence  as  the  Tomb  of  Agamemnon  ;  although 
described  by  Pausanias  rather  as  the  Heroum  of  Perseus. 
But  the  most  striking  evidence  for  the  situation  of  the  Toml 

of 


Tomb  of 
Agamemnon 


(1)  Ibid.   v.  1391.      In  v.  I486,  sEgisthus  commands   the  gates    (miXac)   to  be 
thrown  open. 

(2)  TiV  aS  <rv  Tt}v$e  UP02  ©TPHNOS  itfSots 

'EXdovaa  Ravels,  J  Kao-tyvTJrr),  (jxxriv  ;     Ibid.  vv. 330,331.  torn.  I.  p. 212 

(3)  'EtteI  yap  tfXdov  narpoc  'APXAION  rdtyov, 
'Opu  KOAHNH2  f'i;  aicpaq  vcoppvTovg 
ITrjyaV  yaXaKrot;,  /cat  n-tptffrEtyt)  kijkX^> 

JldvTuv  oV  c'dTtv  dvQiuv  diJKrjy  rar/io.;.       Ibid.   V.  399.   p.  272. 


MYCENAE. 


695 


of  Agamemnon  occurs  in  the  Electra  of  Euripides.  When 
Orestes  in  that  tragedy  relates  to  Pylades  his  nocturnal  visit 
to  the  sepulchre  of  his  father,  it  is  expressly  stated  that  he 
repaired  thither  without  entering  ivithin  the  walls4.  Possibly 
therefore  the  known  existence  of  this  Tumulus,  and  of  its 
form  and  situation,  suggested  both  to  Sophocles  and  to 
Euripides  their  allusions  to  the  Tomb  of  Agamemnon,  and  to 
the  offerings  made  by  Orestes  at  his  father's  sepulchre. 
The  Reader,  after  a  perusal  of  the  facts,  will  of  course  adopt 
his  own  conjecture.  We  shall  now  proceed  to  a  further 
description  of  the  Monument  itself. 

Having  descended  from  the  top  of  it,  we  repaired  to  the 
entrance,  upon  its  eastern  side.  Some  steps,  whereof  the 
traces  are  visible,  originally  conducted  to  the  door.  This 
entrance,  built  with  all  the  colossal  grandeur  of  Phoenician 
and  Egyptian  architecture,  is  covered  by  a  mass  of  breccia, 
of  such  prodigious  size,  that  were  it  not  for  the  testimony 
of  others  who  have  since  visited  the  Tomb,  an  author, 
in  simply  stating  its  dimensions,  might  be  supposed  to 
exceed  the  truth.  The  door  itself  is  not  more  than 
ten  feet  wide ;  and  it  is  shaped  like  the  windows  and 
doors  of  the  Egyptian  and  earliest  Grecian  buildings, 
wider  at  the  bottom  than  at  the  top ;  forming  a  passage 
six   yards  long,  covered   by  two    stones.      The  slab    now 

particularly 


CHAP.  XVJ. 

Euripides. 


Interior  of 
the  Tumulus. 


Enormous 
lintel. 


(4)  Nwktoc  Ie  TtjtSe  7rpuc  rd<f>ov  /xoXwV  Trarpds, 

k.  r.  X. 

KAI  TEIXEHN  MEN  ENT02  OT  BAINfl  nOAA   .  .   . 

Euripidis  Electra,  v.  90.  p.  403.  ed.  Barnes.     Canlab.  l6g4. 


H 


696 


PELOPONNESUS 


chap. xvi.  particularly  alluded  to,  is  the  innermost  entablature;  lying 
across  the  uprights  of  the  portal ;  extending  many  feeit 
into  the  walls  of  the  Tomb  on  either  side.  This  vastt 
lintel  is  best  seen  by  a  person  standing  within  the 
Tomb,  who  is  looking  back  towards  the  entrance1:  itt 
consists  of  a  coarse-grained  breccia,  finished  almost  to  a) 
polish  :  and  the  same  siliceous  aggregate  may  be  observed  ini 
the  mountains  near  Mycenae,  as  at  Athens.  We  carefully/ 
measured  this  mass,  and  found  it  to  equal  twenty-seveni 
feet  in  length,  seventeen  feet  in  width,  and  four  feet  seveni 
inches  in  thickness.  There  are  other  stones  also  of  immense 
size  within  the  Tomb ;  but  this  is  the  most  considerable ;. 
and  perhaps  it  may  be  mentioned  as  the  largest  slab  of 
hewn  stone  in  the  world2.  Over  this  entrance  there  is  a 
triangular  aperture ;  the  base  of  the  triangle  coinciding; 
with  the  lintel  of  the  portal,  and  its  vertex  terminating 
pyramidically  upwards,  so  as  to  complete,  with  the 
inclining  sides  of  the  door,  an  acute,  or  lancet  arch.  This 
style  of  architecture,  characterizing  all  the  buildings  of 
Mycence  and  of  Tiryns,  is  worthy  of  particular  attention; 
for  without  dwelling  upon  any  nugatory  distinctions  as 
to  the  manner  wherein  such  arches  were  constructed ; 
whether  by  projecting  horizontal  courses  of  stone,   or  by 

the 


(1)  See  Plate  VI.  of  Gell's  Itin.  of  Greece,  facing  p.  34.     Lond.  1810. 

(2)  Excepting  only  Pompeys  Pillar:  but  this  is  of  a  different  form,  being 
not  so  wide,  although  much  longer.  The  famous  pedestal  of  the  statue  of  Peter  the 
Great,  at  Petersburg,  often  described  as  an  entire  mass  of  granite,  consists  of  several 
ipieces. 


Use  of  the 
triangular 
cavity  above 
the  entrance. 


MYCEN.E,  Qg^ 

the  later  invention  of  the  curvature  exemplified  in  all  the  chap.  xvi. 
older  Saracenic  buildings3,  it  is  evident  that  the  acute  or 
lancet  arch  is,  in  fact,  the  oldest  form  of  arch  known  in 
the  world ;  and  that  examples  of  it  may  be  referred  to, 
in  buildings  erected  before  the  War  of  Troy.  The  use 
of  the  triangular  aperture  above  the  portal  is  satisfactorily 
explained  by  the  appearance  of  the  Gate  of  Mycenae,  where 
a  similar  opening  is  filled  by  a  triangular  piece  of  sculpture 
in  alto-relievo.  The  cause  of  placing  such  tablets  in  such 
situations  may  be  shewn  by  reference  to  existing  super- 
stition :  they  were  severally  what  a  Russian  of  the  present 
day  would  call  the  Obraze  or  Bogh ;  an  idolatrous  type 
or  symbol  of  the  mythology  of  the  country.  Sophocles, 
in  the  description  he  affords  of  Mycence,  alludes  to  this 
antient  custom,  as  will  afterwards  appear.  Having  passed 
the  entrance,  and  being  arrived  within  the  interior  of 
the  tomb,  we  were  much  struck  by  the  grandeur  of  its 
internal  appearance.  Here  we  found  that  what  appears 
externally  to  be  nothing  more  than  a  high  conical 
mound  of  earth,  contains  within  it  a  circular  chamber 
of  stone,  regularly  built,  and  terminating  above  in  a  co- 
nical dome,  corresponding  with  the  exterior  shape  of  the 
tumulus.  Its  form  has  been  aptly  compared  to  that  of 
an  English  b«ee-hive\    The  interior  superficies  of  the  stone 

was 


Inner 
chamber. 


(3)  See  "  Two  Letters  on  the  subject  of  Gothic  Architecture,"'  by  the  Rev.  John 
Haggitt,  Camb.  1813;  wherein  the  Eastern  origin  of  the  "Pointed  Style"  is  clearly 
demonstrated. 

(4)  The  Greek  bee-hives  have  a  different  form  :  they  are  generally  cylindrical. 
VOL.  III.  4   U 


698 


PELOPONNESUS 


chap.  xvi.  Was  once  lined  either  with  metal  or  with  marble  plates, 
fastened  on  by  bronze  nails ;  many  of  which  now  remain  as 
they  were  originally  driven  into  the  sides.  These  nails  have 
been  analyzed,  and  proved  to  consist  of  copper  and  tin1:  the 
metal  is  therefore,  properly  speaking,  the  ^ocXxog  of  Homer, 
or  bronze ;  a  compound  distinguished  from  the  orichalcum*, 
or  brass,  of  later  ages,  which  consisted  of  copper  and  zinc. 
We  had  scarcely  entered  beneath  the  dome  before  we 
observed,  upon  the  right  hand,  another  portal,  leading  from 
the  principal  chamber  of  the  tomb  to  an  interior  apartment 
of  a  square  form  and  smaller  dimensions.  The  door- way 
to  this  had  the  same  sort  of  triangular  aperture  above  it 
that  we  had  noticed  over  the  main  entrance  to  the  sepul- 
chre ;  and  as  it  was  nearly  closed  to  the  top  with  earth, 
we  stepped  into  the  triangular  cavity  above  the  lintel, 
that  we  might  look  down  into  the  area  of  this  inner 
chamber;  but  here  it  was  too  dark  to  discern  any  thing. 
Being  afraid  to  venture  into  a  place  of  unknown  depth, 
we  collected  and  kindled  a  fagot  of  dry  bushes,  and, 
throwing  this  in  a  blaze  to  the  bottom,  we  saw  that   we 

might 


(1)  In  the  proportion  of  eighty-eight  parts  of  copper  added  to  twelve  of  tin, 
according  to  their  analysis  by  Mr.  Hatchett.  The  same  constituents,  nearly  in  the 
same  proportion,  exist  in  all  very  antient  bronze.  The  celebrated  W.  H.  Wollaston, 
M.  D.  Secretary  to  the  Royal  Society,  analyzed  some  bronze  arrow-heads  of  great 
antiquity  found  near  to  Kremenchuck  in  the  South  of  Russia,  and  observed  the  same 
compound  of  copper  and  tin.  Possibly  the  most  antient  bronze  may  have  been  derived 
from  a  native  alloy  consisting  of  the  two  metals. in  this  state  of  combination. 

(2)  See  Watson's  Chemical  Essays,  vol.  IV.  p.  85,  et  seq.  Canib.  1786.  where 
the  learned  author  ingeniously  proves  that  the  orichalcum  of  the  Romans  was  a  metallic 
substance  analogous  to  our  compound  of  copper  and  zinc ;  or  brass. 


M  Y  C  E  N  M. 


699 


might  easily  leap  down   and   examine   the  whole   cavity,     chap^xvi. 

The  diameter  of  the  circular  chamber  is  sixteen  yards  ;  but 

the  dimensions  of  the  square  apartment  do  not  exceed  nine 

vards  by  seven.    We  did  not  measure  the  height  of  the  dome, 

but  the  elevation  of  the  vertex  of  the  cone,  from  the  floor  in 

its  present  state,  is  said  to  be  about  seventeen  yards3. 

After  leaving  this  sepulchre,  the  Cyclopian  walls  of 
Mycenae,  extending  to  a  short  distance  in  a  parallel  pro- 
jection from  the  entrance  to  the  Citadel,  pointed  out  to  us 
the  approach  to  the  gate  on  this  side ;  which  is  built  like 
Stonchenge,  with  two  uprights  of  stone,  and  a  transverse 
entablature  of  the  same  massive  construction.  Above  this 
is  a  triangular  repository  similar  to  those  already  described 
within  the  tomb ;  but  instead  of  being  empty,  as  in  the 
former  instances,  it  is  entirely  filled  by  an  enormous  alto- 
relievo,  upon  a  stone  block  of  a  triangular  form;  exhibiting  Leonine  Gate 
two  Lions,  or  rather  Panthers,  standing  like  the  supporters 
of  a  modern  coat  of  arms.  This  is  the  identical  piece  of 
sculpture  noticed  by  Pausanias  as  being  over  the  gate  of  the 
Citadel4.  But  the  mention  he  has  made  of  it  does  not  appear 
to  have  been  the  only  instance  where  this  curious  specimen  of 
the  sculpture  of  the  heroic  ages  is  noticed  by  antient  writers. 
The  allusions  to  a  real  scene  in  the  Electra  of  Sophocles 
have  been  recently  stated  ;  and  while  we  now  shew  that  the 
same  drama  has  also  preserved  the  record  of  a  very  curious 

superstition, 

(3)  See  Gell's  Itin.  of  Greece,  p.  30.     Lond.  1810. 

(4)  AtiVcrat   dc    S/ncog  'in   ical    a\\a   rov  irepifidXov,   kccI  i)  irvXrj'    AE0NTE2  $h 
ItbcffT^Kaartv  avry.    Pausan.  Corinth,  c.  16.  p.  146.    ed.  Kuhnii. 


wm  p&g 


700 


CHAP.  XV J. 


Dimensions 
and  descrip- 
tion of  tbe 
Propylaa. 


PELOPONNESUS. 

superstition,  it  will  likewise  appear  that  this  remarkable  mo- 
nument of  the  antient  mythology  of  Mycence  did  not  escape 
his  notice.  Orestes,  before  entering  the  Citadel,  speaks  of 
worshipping  the  statues  of  the  Gods  of  the  country  which 
are  stationed  in  the  Propylcea\  The  antient  custom  of  conse- 
crating gates,  by  placing  sacred  images  above  them,  has  existed 
in  every  period  of  history;  and  it  is  yet  retained  in  some  coun- 
tries. There  is  still  a  holy  gate  belonging  to  the  Kremlin  at 
Moscow;  and  the  practice  here  alluded  to  is  daily  exemplified 
in  the  Russian  city,  by  all  who  enter  or  leave  the  Citadel 
through  that  gate.  Every  thing  therefore  conspires  to  render 
the  Ruins  of  Myccna',  and  especially  of  this  entrance  to  the 
Acropolis,  preeminently  interesting  ;  whether  we  consider 
their  venerable  age,  or  the  allusions  made  to  them  in  such 
distant  periods  when  they  were  visited  by  the  Poets  and 
Historians  of  Greece  as  the  classical  antiquities  of  their 
country ;  or  the  indisputable  examples  they  afford  of  the 
architecture;  sculpture,  mythology,  and  customs  of  the 
heroic  ages.  The  walls  of  Mycenae,  like  those  of  the 
Citadels  of  Argos  and  Tiryns,  were  of  Cyclopean  masonry, 
and  its  gates  denote  the  same  gigantic  style  of  structure. 
Any  person  who  has  seen  the  sort  of  work  exhibited  by 
Stonehenge,  and  by  many  other  Celtic  remains  of  a  similar 
nature,  will    be  at  no  loss  to   figure  to  his  imagination  the 

uprights 


(l)  7rarpu>a  7r(oo<rki>V«v0'  ec>) 

Otuy,  vGOiTTifi  npoirvha  vuiovaiv  rd<:e* 


Sophocl.  Elect,  v.  1391.  torn.  I.  p.  328.     Par.  1/8! 


MYCEN.E.  701 

uprights  and  the  lintels  of  the  Gates  of  Myccnce.  We  chap.  xvi. 
endeavoured  to  measure  those  of  the  principal  entrance, 
over  which  the  leonine  images  are  placed.  The  length  of 
the  lintel  equals  fifteen  feet  two  inches ;  its  breadth,  six 
feet  nine  inches  ;  and  its  thickness,  four  feet :  and  it  is 
of  one  entire  mass  of  stone.  The  two  uprights  supporting 
this  enormous  slab  might  afford  still  ampler  dimensions ; 
but  these  are  almost  buried  in  the  soil  and  rubbish  which 
have  accumulated  below  so  as  to  reach  nearly  to  the  lintel. 
Above  this  lintel  stands  the  remarkable  piece  of  sculpture 
alluded  to  by  Sophocles2  and  by  Pausanias3.  It  therefore 
requires  a  distinct  examination,  and  a  very  particular  descrip- 
tion. The  last  of  these  authors,  in  the  passage  before  cited4, 
has  called  the  two  animals,  there  represented,  Lions ;  but 
they  are  evidently  Panthers,  or  Tigers ;  the  more  appropriate 
emblems  of  that  branch  of  the  Heathen  Mythology  which 
was  peculiarly  venerated  by  the  inhabitants  of  Myccncc.\ 
This  piece  of  sculpture  is,  as  before  stated,  an  alto-relievo 
of  a  triangular  form  ;  the  base  of  the  triangle  resting  upon 
the  lintel  of  the  gate  ;  and  its  top  pointing  upwards,  in  such 
a  manner,  that  a  perpendicular  line  bisecting  the  angle 
of  the  vertex  would  also  divide  the  lintel  into  two  equal 
parts.  Such  a  line  has  been  used  by  the  antient  sculptor 
for  the  position  of  a  pillar  exactly  resembling  a  sepulchral 

Ste'ld, 


Mythological 
Symbols . 


(2)  Vid.  Sophocl.  Elect,  v.  1391.    : 

(3)  Vid.  Pausan.  in  Corinth,  c.  16.  p.  140.    ed.  Kuhnii. 

(4)  Ibid.     See  the  words  of  Pausanias  in  a  former  Note, 

(5)  Vid.  Sophocl.  Elect,  passim. 


hh  ^fm 


•i£& 


702 


CHAP.  XVI. 


PELOPONNESUi. 

Ste'le,  resting  upon  a  pedestal  over  the  lintel;  but  this 
pillar  is  most  singularly  inverted,  tie  major  diameter  of 
the  shaft  being  placed  uppermost ;  so  .hat,  contrary  to  every 
rule  we  are  acquainted  with  respecting  antient  pillars,  its 
diameter  is  less  towards  the  base  thai  at  the  capital.  As 
to  the  order  of  architecture  denotec  by  this  pillar,  it  is 
rather  Tuscan  than  Doric ;  and  it  is  remarkably  ornamented 
by  four  balls,  placed  horizontally  abo^e  the  Abacus.  There 
is  also  a  circular  ornament,  or  Orb  in  the  front  of  the 
pedestal,  which  is  a  double  Torus.  The  pillar  is  further 
supported  by  two  Panthers;  one  standing  erect  on  either  side 
of  it,  with  his  hinder  feet  upon  the  liitel,  but  with  his  two 
fore-paws  upon  the  pedestal  of  the  pillar :  the  heads  of 
these  animals  seem  to  have  been  originally  raised,  fronting 
each  other,  above  the  capital;  where  they  probably  met, 
and  occupied  the  space  included  by  the  vertex  of  the 
triangle ;  but  they  have  been  broker  off,  and  no  part  of 
them  is  now  to  be  seen.  The  two  Panthers,  thus  placed 
on  the  two  sides  of  the  pillar,  exactly  resemble  a  couple 
of  supporters  as  used  in  heraldry  fo:  an  armorial  ensign'. 
The  dimensions  of  this  alto-relievo  are  as  follow  :  the  height, 
nine  feet  eight  inches;  the  width,  in  the  broadest  part 
towards  the  base  of  the  triangle,  eleven  feet  nine  inches ; 
the  thickness  of  the  slab,  one  foot  ten  inches.  The  stone 
itself  exhibits,  upon  one  side  of  it,  evident  marks  of 
a  saw;    but  it  is  in  other  respects  extremely  rude.      As 

it 


(l)  See  the  Vignette  to  this  Clapter. 


MYCENAE. 

it  has  been  fortunately  preserved  in  its  present  situation, 
it  serves  to  explain  the  nature  of  the  triangular  cavities 
above  the  doors  in  the  tomb  we  have  so  lately  described ; 
proving  that  they  were  each  similarly  occupied  by  a  sacred 
tablet  of  the  same  pyramidal  or  triangular  form.  We  have 
before  seen  that  the  whole  inclosure  of  the  Acropolis  of 
Athens  was  one  vast  shrine,  or  consecrated  peribolus ;  and  the 
Citadel  of  Mycence  upon  a  smaller  scale  was  probably  of  the 
same  nature.  These  tablets  therefore  were  the  Hiera,  at  the 
Gates  of  the  holy  places  before  which  the  people  worshipped. 
Of  the  homage  so  rendered  at  the  entering  in  of  sanctuaries, 
we  find  frequent  allusion  in  the  sacred  scriptures.  It  is  said 
in    Ezekiel2,  that    "  the    people    of    the    land    shall 

WORSHIP  AT  THE  DOOR  OF  THE  GATE  BEFORE  THE  LORD, 
IN    THE     SABBATHS,     AND     IN     THE     NEW    MOONS:"    and     in 

the  sublime  song  of  the  sons  of  Korah3,  the  Gates  of  the 
Acropolis  of  Jerusalem,  owing  to  their  sanctity,  are 
described  as  of  more  estimation  in  the  sight  of  God,  "  than 
all  the  dwellings  of  Jacob."  Mycence  has  preserved  for 
us,  in  a  state  of  admirable  perfection,  a  model  of  one  of 
the  oldest  Citadels  of  the  world ;  nor  can  there  be  found 
a  more  valuable  monument  for  the  consideration  of  the 
scholar  profoundly  versed  in  the  history  of  antient  art,  than 
these  precious  reliques  of  her  Propylcea  exhibiting  examples 
of  sculpture  more  antient  than  the  Trojan  War,  and  of 
the   style   of  fortification    used    in    the   heroic    ages;    and 

also 


703 


CHAP.  XVI. 


Consecrated 
Gates. 


(2)  Ezekiel  xlvi.3. 

(3)  Psalms  lxxxvii.  %. 


*»»**" 


,•■&*&■ 


^m    ^m  ^p  ^g 


01 


PELOPONNESUS. 


i:iiap.  xvi.  aiso  a  plan  of  those  Gates,  where  not  only  religious  cere* 
monies  were  performed,  but  also  the  courts  of  judicature 
were  held1.  For  this  purpose  it  was  necessary  that  there 
should  be  a  paved  court,  or  open  space,  in  the  front  of 
the  Propylcea,  as  it  was  here  that  kings  and  magistrates 
held  their  sittings  upon  solemn  occasions.  It  is  said  of 
the  kings  of  Israel  and  Judah,  that  they  sat  on  their  thrones 
in  a  void  place0',  in  the  entrance  of  the  gates  of 
Samaria,  where  all  the  prophets  prophesied  before 
them.  The  Gate  of  Myccp.ce  affords  a  perfect  commentary 
upon  this  and  similar  passages  of  Scripture  :  the  walls  of 
the  Acropolis  project  in  parallel  lines  before  the  entrance, 
forming  the  sort  of  area,  or  oblong  court,  before  the 
Fropylcea,  to  which  allusion  is  thus  made ;  and  it  is  in  this 
open  space  before  the  Citadel  that  Sophocles  has  laid  the 
scene  in  the  beginning  of  his  Electra.  The  Markets  were 
always  in  these  places',  as  it  is  now  the  custom  before  the 
Gates  of  Acre,  and  many  other  towns  in  the  East:  hence 
it  is  probable,  that,  in  the  mention  made  by  Sophocles  of  the 
Lycean  Forum*,  he  is  not  alluding  to  one  of  the  public  Fora 
of  Argos,  but  to  the  Pylagora  or  Market-place  at  the  Gate 

Of 


Of  the 
Pylagorce 


(1)  Vide  Chronicon  Parium,  Epoch  5.  where  the  place  of  Council  for  the 
Amphictyones  is  called  IlvXaia.  Suidas  says,  that  not  only  the  place  (o  roVoc),  but  the 
Assembly  itself,  had  this  name.  (Vid.  Suid.  in  voc.  UvXayopat.)  See  also  Job  xxix.  /. 
Ps.  lxix.  12,  &c. 

(2)  Or  floor,  according  to  the  Hebrew.     See  1  Kings  xxii.  10. 

(3)  See  2  Kings  i.  18. 

(4)  Avtij  o',  'OpitJTCtrov  Xvkoktovov  deov 
'Ayooe*  A>/Vf/o<\ 

Soph.  Elect,  v.6.  pp.  176,  17s.  torn.  I.     Paris,  1781. 


MYCEN  2R. 


705 


of  Mycencc,  whose  inhabitants,    in  common   with    all   the    ^hap.  xvi. 

Argives,   worshipped  the.  Lycean  Apollo.     The  same  author 

makes    the    worship    of  Apollo,    or   the   Sun,    the    peculiar    worship  of 

,     ,  ,  •  the  Sun. 

mythology  of  the  city';  and  it  is  confirmed  by  the  curious 
symbols  of  the  Propylcea,  before  which  Orestes  pays  his 
adoration6.  Apollo,  as  a  type  of  the  Sun,  was  the  same 
divinity  as  Bacchus  ;  and  the  two  Panthers  supporting  the 
pillar  represent  a  species  of  animal  well  known  to  have 
been  sacred  to  the  Indian  Bacchus.     This  divinity,  also   the    Egyptian 

Characteris- 

Osiris  of  Egypt,  was  often  represented  by  the  simple  type  ties. 
of  an  orb  ;  hence  the  introduction  of  the  orbicular  symbols  : 
and  among  the  different  forms  of  images  set  up  by  antient 
nations  in  honour  of  the  Sun,  that  of  a  pillar  is  known  to 
have  been  one.  There  was  an  image  of  Apollo  which  had 
this  form  at  Amyclce7;  and  the  Sun-images  mentioned  in  the 
sacred  Scriptures  seem  to  have  been  of  the  same  nature. 
In  the  book  of  the  Jewish  law,  immediately  preceding  the 
passage  where  the  Israelites  are  commanded  to  abstain  from 
the  worship  of  "  the  sun,  or  moon,  or  any  of  the  host  of 
heaven,"  it  is  forbidden  to  them  to  set  up  any  idolatrous 
pillar*.  All  the  superstitions  and  festivities  connected 
with  the  Dionysia  came  into  Greece  with  Danaus  from 
Egypt9.     The  cities  of  Argolis  are  consequently  of  all  places 

the 


(5)   Soph.  Elect,  v.  1393,  k.  r.  \. 
(0)  Ibid.  v.  1391. 

(7)  Vid.  Pausan.  in  Laconic,  c.  19.  p.  257-  ed.  Kuhnii. 

(8)  Deuteronomy,  xvi.  22  j   xvii.  3. 

(9)  According    to   Plutarch,  tlie   Dionysia  were    the  same   with    the    ALuyptian 
Parnylia.     Ti)v    he    tuv    ITAMTAIflN    kopTi}v    dyovTa;,     (wWf/>    etptfrai)    <j>a\\(Kt}v 

VOL.   III.  4  X  °^av> 


ws*f 


706 


CHAP.  XVI. 


Walls  of 

Mycena\ 


PELOTONNESUS. 

the  most  likely  to  retain  vestiges  of  these  antient  orgies ; 
and  the  orbicular  symbols  consecrated  to  the  Sun,  together 
with  the  pyramidal  form  of  the  tablets,  the  style  of 
architecture  observable  in  the  walls  of  Mycence,  and  the 
magnificent  remains  of  the  sepulchres  of  her  kings,  all 
associate  with  our  recollections  of  Egypt,  and  forcibly 
direct  the  attention  towards  that  country.  That  the  rites 
of  Apollo  at  Mycence:  had  reference  to  the  worship  of  the 
Sun  is  a  circumstance  beautifully  and  classically  alluded 
to  by  Sophocles ;  who  introduces  Elect/a  hailing  the  holy 
light1 ,  and  calling  the  swallow  Messenger  of  the  God2, 
because,  being  the  herald  of  the  coming  spring,  it  was  then 
held  sacred,  as  it  now  is  in  that  country. 

This  gate  faces  the  north-west.  After  we  had  passed 
it,  we  followed  the  circuit  made  by  the  walls  around  the 
hill  of  the  Citadel.  These  consist  of  huge  unhewn  masses 
of  stone,  so  fitted  and  adapted  to  each  other  as  to  have  given 
rise  to  an  opinion  that  the  power  of  man  was  inadequate  :o 
the  labour  necessary  in  building  them.  Hence  the  epithet  }f 
Cyclopean,  bestowed  upon  them  by  different  authors'.  The 
Peribolus  they  inclose  is  oblong,   and  about  three   hundred 

ard 


ovvav,  k.t.X.  Ptut.  dc  hid.  et  Osir.  cap.  36.  Franco/.  15QC).  For  the  JEgypthn 
origin  of  these  festivals,  see  also  Herodot.  lib.  ii.  The  Orgia,  arid  Trieterica,  cane 
from  Thrace,  but  they  were  originally  from  Egypt.     See  Diod.  Sic.  vol.  I.  pp.  239,  2-8. 

(1)  'ft  Qdoe  dyvov.     Sophocl.   Elect,  v.  86.  p.  1S6.  torn.  I.    Paris,  1781. 

(2)  A<oc  &yye\o(.       Ibid.  v.  149- 

(3)  Kvk\u7tbuiv  wokiv  (in  Euripid.  Hercule  Furente).  KvkKuvuv  Ovp.i)at 
(Iphigen.  in.  Aul.).  KvKKu7reia  ovpuvia  rci^j  (in  Sophocl..  Elect.)  ]Lvic\iinav  It  ul 
ravra  epya  tJyai  \cyov<rii>.    Pausan.  in  Corinth,  c.  16.  p.  146.  ed.  Kuhnii. 


MYCEN  M. 


707 


Antient 
Cisteru. 


and  thirty  yards  in  length.  Upon  the  northern  side  are  chap. xvi. 
the  remains  of  another  portal,  quite  as  entire  as  that 
we  have  already  described,  and  built  in  the  same  manner; 
excepting  that  a  plain  triangular  mass  of  stone  rests  upon 
the  lintel  of  the  gateway,  instead  of  a  sculptured  block  as 
in  the  former  instance.  We  saw  within  the  walls  of  the 
Citadel  an  antient  cistern,  which  had  been  hollowed  out  of 
the  breccia  rock,  and  lined  with  stucco.  The  Romans  had  no 
settlement  vXMycence;  but  such  is  the  state  of  preservation  in 
which  the  cement  yet  exists  upon  the  sides  of  this  reservoir, 
that  it  is  difficult  to  explain  the  cause  of  its  perfection 
after  so  many  centuries.  Similar  excavations  may  be 
observed  in  the  Acropolis  oi  A  rgos  ;  also  upon  the  Mount 
Olives  near  to  Jerusalem;  and  among  the  remains  of  the 
antient  cities  of  Taurica  Cliersonesus,  particularly  in  the 
rocks  above  the  Portus  Symbolorum.  The  porous  nature 
of  breccia  rocks  may  serve  to  explain  the  use  and  perhaps 
the  absolute  necessity  of  the  stucco  here;  and  it  may 
also  illustrate  the  well-known  fable  concerning  those 
porous  vessels  which  the  Dana'ides  were  doomed  to  fill  ; 
probably  alluding  to  the  cisterns  of  A  rgos  which  the 
daughters  of  Danaus  were  compelled  to  supply  with  water, 
according  to  the  usual  employment  of  women  in  the  East. 
The  other  antiquities  of  Mycence  must  remain  for  the 
more  attentive  examination  of  future  travellers  ;  who,  as 
it  is  hoped,  will  visit  the  Ruins  provided  with  the  necessary 
implements  for  making  researches,  where,  with  the  slightest 
precaution,  they  will  be  little  liable  to  interruption  on  the 
part  of  the  Turks  ;  the  place  being  as  destitute  of  inha- 
bitants, 


i*w.T 


SS**Hw 


708 


PELOPONNESUS. 


chap,  xvi.  bitants,  and  almost  as  little  known  or  regarded,  as  it  was 
in  the  time  of  Strabo ;  when  it  was  believed  that  not  a 
vestige  of  Mycencc  could  be  found.  The  inducement 
towards  such  inquiries  is  of  no  common  nature:  whatever 
may  be  discovered  will  relate  to  the  history  of  a  city 
which  ceased  to  be  inhabited  long  before  the  Macedonian 
conquest,  and  to  the  manners  of  a  people  coeval  with 
JEschylus  and  with  Euripides. 


CHAP.  XVII. 


PELOPONNESUS. 

Journey  to  Nemea — Defile  of  Tretus — Cave  of  the  Nemeaean  Lion 
— Fountain  of  Archemorus  —  Temple  of  the  Nemeaean  Jupiter  — 
Albanians  —  Monument  of  Lycurgus — Nemecean  River — Apesas — 
Sicyonian  Plain — Sicyon  —  Theatre  —  Prospect  from  the  Coilon 
— Stadium — Temple  of  Bacchus — Other  Antiquities — Medals — 
Paved  Way — Fertility  of  the  land — Corinth — Fountain  of  the 
Nymph  Pirene  —  Sisypheum — Temple  of  Octavia — Visit  to  the 
,    Governor — Odeum — Climate  of  Corinth. 

After  leaving  Mycence,  we  again   descended  towards   the     chap.  xvii. 
Plain  of  Argos\  lying  westward  ;  and   coming  to  a  village    journey  to    • 

.  '  .  Nemea. 

called  Carvati,  made   a  hearty  meal  upon  eggs  and  coffee. 

We 


(] )  "  We  descended,  from  Mycence  into  the  rich  plain  of  Argos ;  not  now  deserving 
the  epithet  of  irnrdfioToi;,  for  the  horses  in  this  neighbourhood  are  beyond  measure 
miserable."      Colonel  Squire  s  MS.  Correspondence. 


fw^sflK*? 


'-.-'*>,-'::*  ZS^M 


■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■ 


?10 


CHAP.  XVII. 


Defile  of 
Tratus. 


PELOTONNESU  S. 

We  carried  with  us  an  introductory  letter  to  a  person  named 
Andriano,  who  had  found,  as  we  were  informed,   another 
Tomb  at  Mycence,  similar  to  the  one  wc  have  described  ;  but 
we  could  not  find  him,  and  the  people  of  the  village  knew 
nothing    of   the    discovery.     We    therefore    continued  our 
journey  northward  for  Nemca.     As  this  route  lies  out  of  the 
antient  road  from   Corinth  to  Argos,    (which   did  not  pass 
through  Nemea,)   the  objects  noticed   by  Pausanias,  in  the 
beginning  of  that  part  of  his  second  book  which  he  calls 
Argolica,  do  not  occur.    The  city  of  Cleonce  was  one  of  this 
number ' ;  whose  remains  have  been  observed  in  the  road  to 
Corinth,  and  at   ten   miles   distance   from   that  city2.     The 
road  from  Mycence  to  Nemea  does,   however,  coincide  with 
the  road  to  Corinth  for  a  short  distance  after  leaving  Carvati  ; 
but  upon  reaching  the  mountains,   which   separate   the  two 
plains  of  Argos  and  Nemea,  it  bears  off  by  a  defde  across  a 
mountain  towards  the  west.     Some  allusion  to  this  defile 
occurs  in   Pausanias,   and   to    its  deviation  from   the  main 
road ;    for   he   says   there   were   two  ways   of  going   from 
Cleonce   to  Argos;    one  of  them    by   Tretus,  a   narrow  and 
a  circuitous  way,  but  the  best  carriage  road  of  the   two3. 
As  we  entered  this  defile,  we  travelled  by  the  side  of  a 

rivulet 


(1)  'Ek  Kopipdov  ci'  nr'Apyoc  ipyofilvui  K\f6)vat  tto\ic  tcrrlv  ov  fxtydXt].  Pausan 
in  Corinth,   c.  15.  p.  143.  ed.  Kuhnii. 

(2)  Chandler  found  them  upon  a  hill  in  the  direct  road  from  Argos  to  Corinth.  Set 
Chandler's  Travels  in  Greece,   ch.  5J .  p.  234.      Oxf.  1/76. 

(3)  'Ek  KAfwvwy  ci  ttcrtv  f'c  "\pyoq  ocoi  Silo'  »/  p.cu  litupciuiy  iv^tSt'Od  rat  tarn 
iTrtroj.ior^  i)  ob  eVi  rov  Ka\ovf.ilpov  Tpnrov,  (TTtv>}  fiiv  (cat  uvrrj  TTtpitxdvTuv  6p&v: 
oyj'jixatT'.  Si  icriv  c/i«c  cTriT^LiGTipa.     Pausan.  ibid.  p.  144. 


JOURNEY  TO  NEMEA. 


711 


rivulet  of  very  clear  water,  through  woods  which  were  once 
the  haunts  of  the  famous  Nemecean  Lion.  The  only  animals 
we  saw  were  some  very  fine  tortoises.  We  passed  one  or 
two  huts  inhabited  by  wild-looking  fellows,  who  told  us 
they  were  the  guards  of  the  pass.  They  brought  water  for 
us  to  drink,  and  we  gave  them  a  few  pardhs.  Hereabout  we 
noticed  a  curious  comment  upon  the  account  given  by  Pau- 
sanias  of  this  defile ;  in  the  marks  of  wheels  upon  the  rocky 
parts  of  the  road ;  the  surface  of  the  stone  being  furrowed 
into  ruts ;  which  must  have  been  wrorn  by  the  wheels  of 
antient  carriages4;  no  vehicles  of  this  kind  being  used  by  the 
present  inhabitants  of  the  Peloponnesus.  The  mountain  over 
which  the  defile  leads  is  still  called  Treto  by  the  natives  ;  it 
extends  from  east  to  west,  along  the  southern  side  of  the  Plain 
of  Nemea.  And  this  mountain,  perforated  by  a  defile,  is  all 
that  Pausanias  means  by  "  Tretus"  but  some  persons  have 
believed  that  there  was  a  town  called  Tretum  lying  to  the 
north  of  Argos5.  We  made  diligent  inquiry  after  the  Cave 
of  the  Nemecean  Lion,  mentioned  by  the  same  author;  being 
fully  assured  that  in  a  country  famous  for  the  caverns  con- 
tained in  its  limestone  mountains,  an  allusion  of  this  kind 

would 


CHAP.  XVII. 


Cave  of  the 

Nemecean 

Lion, 


(4)  Mr.  Gell  measured  the  distance  between  the  furrows.  According  to  his  observa- 
tion, the  wheels  of  antient  carriages  "  were  placed  at  about  the  same  distance  from  each 
other  as  in  those  of  modern  times."     See  Win.  of  Greece,  p.  2/.    Lond.  1801. 

(5)  f- Tretum,  petite  ville  de  l'Argolide,  presqvtau  nord  d' Argos.  Dans  les  raon- 
tagnes  pres  de  cette  ville,  on  montroit  une  caverne  ou  se  retiroit,  disoit-on,  le  lion 
feroce  dont  les  poetes  out  attribue  la  mort  a  Hercule,"  &c.  Encyclopedie  Methodique. 
Giographie  Ancienne,  par  Men  telle.     Tome  troisieme,  p.  3/3.    a  Paris,  179'2> 


IQQV8EB   KBEBBP9B        VEwfl        ■■■ 


CHAP.  XVII. 


PELOPONNESUS, 

would  not  have  been  made  by  so  accurate  an  author  without 
its  actual  reference  to  some  cave  having  borne  this  appellation. 
The  guides  from  Argos  knew  nothing  of  it ;  but  the  people 
of  Nemea  afterwards  brought  us  back  again  to  visit  a  hollow 
rock,   hardly    deserving    the  name  of  a   cave,  although   no 
unlikely  place  for  the  den  of  a  lion.     As  other  travellers  may 
be  curious  to  visit  it,  we  shall  describe  its  situation  in  such 
a  manner  that  they  may  be  easily  guided  to  the  spot.     It  is 
situated    upon   the    top   of  the   mountain,   just   before  the 
descent  begins  towards  Nemea,  but  upon  the  side  of  it  which 
regards  the  Gulph  of  Argos,  and  commands  a  view  of  all 
the  country  in  that  direction.     If  it  be  visited  from  Nemea, 
its  bearing  by  the  compass,  from  the  three  columns  of  the 
Temple  of  Jupiter,  is  due  south-east ;   those  columns  being 
on  the  north-west  side  of  Tretus,  and  at  the   base  of  the 
mountain ;  and  this  cave  at  the  top  of  it,  and  on  the  con- 
trary side,  but  facing  Argos  and  Nauplia.    It  consists  simply 
of  an  overhanging  rock  in  the  midst  of  thickets,  on  the  left 
side    of  the  road  from  Nemea  to  Argos;   forming  a  shed, 
where  the  shepherds   sometimes   pen    their   folds.     As  the 
situation  is  commanding,  we  made  the  following  observations 
by  a  small  pocket  compass. 

A  lofty  pointed  summit,  called  the  Peak  ofGiria,  or  Gcrio,  antiently 
Mons  Gerania,  the  most  distant  object  s.  w.  and  by  w. 

Citadel  of  Argos s.  s.  w. 

Citadel  of  Nauplia s. 

Citadel  of  Corinth e.  n.e.— Below  the  eye, 

in  this  direction,  the  site  of  Cleonce  may  be  discerned  in  the 

few  remaining  vestiges  of  that  city. 

This 


CAVE  OF  THE   NEMEiEAN  LION.  ^13 

This  is  the  only  cave  of  any  description  that  we  could  chap.xvii. 
hear  of  in  the  neighbourhood  :  the  people  of  the  country 
know  of  no  other ;  and  we  may  consider  it  as  identified 
with  that  mentioned  by  Pausanias,  from  the  circumstance 
of  its  position  upon  a  mountain  still  bearing  the  name  of 
the  place  assigned  by  him  for  its  situation1.  Its  distance 
also  from  the  ruins  of  the  Temple,  being  about  a  mile  and 
and  a  half,  agrees  very  well  with  that  which  he  has  stated, 
of  fifteen  stadia2. 

After  regaining  the  road,  the  descent  from  this  place  soon 
conducts  the  traveller  into  the  plain  of  Nemea.  We  passed  Fountain  of 
the  fountain  of  Archemorus,  once  called  Langia,  and  now 
Licorice.  Near  to  it  we  saw  the  Tomb  of  Opheltes3,  at  present 
nothing  more  than  a  heap  of  stones.  Pausanias  calls  the 
fountain  the  Adrastcan  spring4:  a  superstition  connected 
with  it  gave  rise  to  all  the  sanctity  and  celebrity  of  the 
surrounding  Grove:  victors  in  the  Nemecean  Games  received 
no  other  reward  than  a  chaplet  made  of  the  wild  parsley b  that 
grew  upon  its  margin ;  and  the  herb  itself,  from  the  cir- 
cumstance of  its  locality,  was  fabled  to  have  sprung  from 

the 


(1)  Vid.  Pausan.  in  Corinth,  c.  15.  p.  144.    ed.  Kuhnii. 

(2)  'Ey  rovrots  roZc  optai  to  O7ri}\atov  in  CciKvvrai  rov  Af'ovroc,  ical  ij  Nf/ira  ro 
■^topiov  dv'tytt,  aral'iovs  irlvre  irov  cat  ZIkcl.  iv  Zt  civvy  'St/j.tiov  tov  Atck  vaoe  hn 
Qtac  afyoc.     Ibid. 

(3)  'Fapravda  tan  fxiv  '0(j>i\rov  rdcjioc.      Ibid. 

(4)  Tqv  5e  7Tt]yt}i/  'Acpdaraav  ovo/xd^ovaiy,  tirs  in  d'Wt}  nvt  alria,  t'trt  Kai 
dvtvpdvToc  avrrjv  ,A.ZpdffTOv.      Ibid. 

(5)  Victors  at  the  Nemecean  Games,  according  to  Plutarch  (in  Timoleon.)  were 
crowned  with  parsley  said  to  have  sprung  out  of  the  blood  of  Archemorus.  "  This  is 
the  very  herb,"  says  Plutarch,  "wherewith  we  adorn  the  sepulchres  of  the  dead."  The 
Nemecean  were  funereal  games ;  the  presidents  were  clothed  in  Hack  garments. 


VOL.   III. 


4    T 


WHfjWFi-™* 


■■■■■■■■■I 


71  ^  PELOPONNESUS. 

chap.  xvii.    the  blood  of  Archemorus,  in  consequence  of  whose  death 
the   spring  is  said   to  have   received  its   name'.    We  then 

Temple  of  the      Came  to    THE    RuiNS    OF    THE  TEMPLE  OF     THE    NEMSi^AM 
Nemeaan  , 

Jupiter.  Jupiter,  which  becomes  a  very  conspicuous  object  as.  the 

plain  opens.  Three  beautiful  columns  of  the  Doric  3rder, 
without  bases,  two  supporting  an  entablature,  and  a  third 
at  a  small  distance  sustaining  its  capital  only,  are  a.l  that 
remain  of  this  once  magnificent  edifice ;  but  they  stand 
in  the  midst  of  huge  blocks  of  marble,  lying  in  all  positions  ; 
the  fragments  of  other  columns,  and  the  sumptuous  materials 
of  the  building,  detached  from  its  walls  and  foundations. 
The  mountain  Tretus  makes  a  grand  figure,  as  seen  from 
this  temple  towards  the  south-east.  A  poor  village,  con- 
sisting of  three  or  four  huts,  somewhat  farther  in  the 
plain  to  the  north  of  this  mountain,  and  north-east  of 
the  temple,  now  occupies  the  situation  of  the  antient 
village  of  Nemea.  It  bears  the  name  of  Colonna  ;  probably 
bestowed  upon  it  in  consequence  of  these  Ruins.  One  of 
its  inhabitants,  coming  from  those  huts,  joined  cur  company 
at  the  Temple.  lie  told  us  that  there  were  formerly 
ninety  columns  all  standing  at  this  place ;  and  the  other 
inhabitants  of  his  little  village  persisted  in  the  same  story. 
The  columns  now   standing,  as   well  as  the  broken  shafts 

of 


(l)  "  Una  tamen  tacitas,  sed,  jussu  numinis,  undas 

Haec  quoque  secreta  nutrit  Langia  sub  umbra, 
Nondum  illi  raptus  dederat  lacrymabile  nomen 
Archemorus,  ncc  fama  Deae." — — 

Statius  Thelaid.  lib.  iv. 


91 


/  t/JE**Jmu 


ftemaix&s  of  Lite  TEMPLE  of  JUPITER  atHemea 


Publufud  Julv sifiSa.ly  T.  tit,/,-//  ,<■  W.Uarits.SOiind.Irtidm  . 


>*-;*;•»'*  !•--;;•*•,•,>  .>.->.*.<»: 


mmiMMHM  n  mi  !■  i  tfi  *  i 


HP 


RUINS  OP  KEMEA. 

of  many  other  lying  near  to  them,  are  grooved,  and  they 
measure  four  feet  ten  inches  in  diameter.  The  stones  of 
the  foundation  of  the  Temple  are  of  very  great  size.  We 
observed  the  wild  pear-tree,  mentioned  by  Chandler2  so 
many  vears  before,  still  growing  among  the  stones  on  one 
side  of  the  Ruin.  He  pitched  his  tent  within  the  cell  of 
the  Temple,  "  upon  its  clear  and  level  area."  Not  having 
such  comfortable  means  of  accommodation  for  the  night, 
we  accompanied  the  peasant  who  had  joined  us,  to  the 
village,  where  the  Tchohodar  had  already  arrived  and 
engaged  one  of  the  huts  for  our  reception.  The  poor  Albanians.1 
Albanians,  to  whom  this  little  habitation  belonged,  had 
swept  the  earth  floor  and  kindled  a  fire  upon  it;  the  smoke 
escaping  through  a  hole  in  the  roof :  one  end  of  the  hut 
being  occupied  by  their  cattle  and  poultry,  and  the  other  by 
the  family  and  their  guests.  Having  killed  and  boiled  a 
large  fowl,  we  made  broth  for  all  the  party ;  sitting  in 
a  circle  round  the  fire.  Afterwards,  imitating  the  example 
offered  to  us  by  our  host  and  his  family,  we  placed  our 
feet  towards  the  embers,  and  stretched  ourselves  upon 
the  floor  of  the  cottage  until  the  morning.  We  found 
during  the  night,  that  the  women,  instead  of  sleeping, 
were  entirely  engaged  in  tending  the  fire ;  bringing  fresh 
fuel  when  it  was  wanted,  and  spreading  out  the  embers 
so  as  to  warm  the  feet  of  all  present,  who  were  disposed 
around  the  hearth  like  diverging  radii  from  this  common 
focus.     As  soon  as  the  men  had  taken  a  short  nap,  they 

sate 


(2)  See  Chandler's  Travels  in  Greece,  p.  232.     Or/.  1776. 


■ 


JJP'  ^>Ur^ftpji<  SE^T* 


716 


CHAP.  XVII. 


Monument  of 
Lycurgus. 


PELOPONNESUS. 

sate  up,  and  began  talking.  The  conversation  turned  upon 
the  oppressions  of  their  Turkish  masters.  The  owner  of 
the  hut  told  us  that  each  male  is  compelled  to  pay  a  tax  of 
seventy  piastres  ;  that,  for  himself,  having  three  sons,  they 
demanded  of  him  an  annual  payment  of  two  hundred  and 
eighty  piastres,  besides  other  contributions  ;  that  he  toiled 
incessantly  with  his  children  to  gain  enough  to  satisfy 
their  demands,  but  found  himself  unable,  after  all  his 
endeavours.  Having  said  this,  the  poor  man  shed  tears; 
asking  us  if  the  time  would  ever  arrive  when  Greece  might 
be  delivered  from  the  Mahometan  tyranny:  and  adding,  "  If 
we  had  but  a  leader,  we  should  flock  together  by  thousands, 
and  soon  put  an  end  to  Turkish  dominion."  Towards  morning, 
the  braying  of  their  donkies  set  them  all  in  motion.  Having 
asked  the  cause  of  the  stir,  they  told  us  that  the  day  was 
going  to  break  ;  and  they  informed  us  that  the  braying  of 
an  ass  was  considered  by  them  a  better  indication  of  the 
approaching  dawn  than  the  crowing  of  a  cock.  In  the 
present  instance  they  were  certainly  not  deceived,  for  we 
had  no  sooner  boiled  our  coffee  than  day-light  appeared. 

We  then  returned  to  the  Ruins.  Near  to  the  remains 
of  the  Temple,  and  upon  the  south  side  of  it,  we  saw 
a  small  chapel,  containing  some  Doric  fragments,  standing 
upon  an  antient  barrow ;  perhaps  the  Monument  of 
Lycurgus  father  of  Opheltes;  for  this  is  mentioned  by 
Pausanias  as  a  mound  of  earth1 ,     Scarcely  a  vestige  of  the 

grove 


(l)  "Ear*    Ot    \tofta    yffQ  Avtcovpyou  jxyrj^a    tov    '0©Aroi/  7rurpd<j. 
Corinth,  c.  15.  p.  144.    ed.  Kuhnii. 


Pausan.   in 


m^^^m^m^^mmms^^m^^^^^^^mWHm^ 


RUINS    OF    NEMEA. 


717 


grove  remains  where  the  triennial  games  were  celebrated  ;  chap.xvii. 
unless  a  solitary  tree,  here  and  there,  may  be  considered  as 
reliques2.  The  plain  all  around  the  Temple  exhibits  an  open 
surface  of  agricultural  soil.  We  could  discover  no  trace 
either  of  a  Stadium  or  of  a  Theatre5;  both  of  which  are  found 
in  every  other  part  of  Greece  where  solemn  games  were 
celebrated.  When  every  other  monument  by  which  Nemea 
was  adorned  shall  have  disappeared,  this  tomb,  with  that  of 
Opheltes,  and  the  fountain  of  Archemorus  upon  the  slope 
of  the  neighbouring  hill,  will  be  the  only  indications 
of  the  sacred  grove.  The  three  remaining  columns  of  the 
Temple  of  Jupiter  are  not  likely  to  continue  long  in  their  pre- 
sent situation:  some  diplomatic  virtuoso,  or  pillaging  Pasha, 
will  bear  away  these  marble  reliques;  and  then,  notwith- 
standing the  boast  of  Statius*,  the  very  site  of  the  consecrated 
games,  whether  instituted  to  commemorate  Hypsipyles  loss, 

or 


(2)  Pausanias  says  that  the  temple  was  surrounded  by  a  grove  of  cypresses. 
fLvTraftiTcruv  rs  a\aoe  early  Trepl  tov  vaov.  (Fid.  Pausan.  in  Cor.  c.  15.  p.  144.) 
Not  a  cypress-tree  is  now  to  be  seen  anywhere  near  the  Ruins. 

(3)  It  does  not  necessarily  follow,  that  if  this  be  the  Temple  of  Nemecean  Jove,  the 
Games  were  celebrated  close  to  the  spot  where  the  Temple  stands.  Mr.  Gell  found 
the  remains  of  a  Theatre  in  his  journey  from  Corinth  to  Nemea ;  which  although  he 
does  not  seem  to  be  aware  of,  the  circumstance  may  be  that  of  the  Nemecean  Games.  He 
is  just  entering  the  Nemecean  Plain  or  valley  j  and  he  says,  "  Here  joins  the  road  leading 
from  Mycence  to  Nemea,  which  turning  to  the  right,  falls  into  the  valley  of  Nemea, 
between  the  site  of  a  Theatre  on  the  right,  and  a  fount  on  the  left,  now  dry."  See 
Cell's  Itin.  of  Greece,  p.  22.     Lond.  1801. 

W  "  manet  in»ens  gloria  Nympharu, 

Cum  tristcui  Hypsipyletn  ducibus  sudatus  Achaeis 
Liultis,  et  atra  sacrum  recolit  Trieteris  Ophelten." 

Statins  Thelaid.  Kb.  iv. 


H  -ftavi^ 


:*Ssfl«H5W  tJii/fthf**^  <#tp**? 


yjg  PELOPONNESUS, 

chap.  xvii.  or  the  first  labour  of  Hercules1,  may  become  a  theme  of 
dispute.  Perhaps,  indeed,  the  Temple  is  not  of  the  high 
antiquity  that  has  been  assigned  to  it.  The  columns  are 
said  not  to  bear  the  due  proportion  which  is  usually 
observed  in  the  early  examples  of  Doric  architecture2.  This 
edifice  may  have  been  erected  by  Adrian,  when  that 
emperor  restored  to  the  Nemccean  and  to  the  Isthmian  Games 
their  original  splendor. 

Early  this  morning,  Wednesday,  November  the  eleventh, 
we  began  our  journey  towards  Sicyon,  now  called  Basilico; 
following  the  course  of  the  Nemecean  rivulet.  This  stream  is 
alluded  to  by  Statius,  with  reference  to  the  fountain  before 
mentioned3.  It  flows  in  a  deep  ravine  after  leaving  the 
plain,  and  then  passes  between  the  mountains  which  separate 
the  Nemccean  Plain  from  that  of  Sicyon.  On  either  side  of  the 
rivulet  the  rocks  appeared  to  consist  of  a  whitish  chalky 
limestone.  As  we  rode  along  the  left  bank  of  the  rivulet,  we 
saw,  upon  our  right,  a  table  mountain,  believed  by*  Chandler 
to  be  the  Apesas  of  Pausamas,  where  Perseus  was  said  to 
have  sacrificed  to  Jupiter.  Its  flat  top,  he  says,  is  visible 
in  the  Gulph  of  Corinth.     We  passed  some   ruined  Chapels 

upon 


Neniesean 
River. 


rfpesas. 


(1)  According  to  ^Elian,  lib.  iv.  c.  5.  Hercules  transferred  to  Cleonee  the  honous 
bestowed  upon  him  by  the  Nemeans,  for  subduing  the  lion. 

(2)  Mr.  Gell  makes  the  diameters  of  the  columns  of  the  peristyle  equal  five  fed 
two  inches  and  a  half,  and  observes  that  the  columns  are  higher  in  proportion  to  ther 
diameters  than  is  usual  in  the  Doric  Order.     See  Itin.  of  Greece,  p.  23.    Lond.  1601. 

W.J  "  tamen  avia  servat 

Et  nemus,  et  fluvium."  Stat.  Theh.  lib.  iv. 


(4)  Trav.  in  Greece,  p.  233.     Oxf.  1776. 


RUINS    OF   NEMEA. 

upon  our  left.  Almost  every  building  of  this  kind  in  Greece 
has  been  erected  upon  the  ruins  of  some  Pagan  sanctuary  ; 
for  which  reason  they  are  always  worthy  of  a  particular 
examination.  After  riding  about  two  hours  along  the 
Nemecean  rivulet,  we  suddenly  quitted  its  course  upon  our 
light,  and  beheld  Sicyon,  occupying  an  elevated  situation 
upon  some  whitish  cliffs.  Here  we  noticed  a  Tomb  and 
Ruins  upon  our  right  hand,  and  immediately  descended  into 
the  great  fertile  plain  which  extends  along  the  Sinus  Corin- 
thiacus,  between  Sicyon  and  Corinth.  Soon  after  entering 
into  this  plain,  we  observed,  upon  our  right  hand,  a  Chapel, 
containing  Ionic  capitals  and  other  marble  fragments.  Hence 
we  continued  along  the  level  surface  of  the  finest  piece  of 
land  in  all  Greece,  cultivated  like  a  garden  ;  and  after 
crossing  a  river,  observed  in  several  places  upon  our  left 
the  ruins  of  antient  buildings.  We  then  came  to  the  site  of 
the  city  of  Sicyon. 

So  little  is  known  concerning  this  antient  seat  of  Grecian 
power,  that  it  is  not  possible  to  ascertain  in  what  period 
it  dwindled  from  its  high  pre-eminence,  to  become,  what 
it  now  is,  one  of  the  most  wretched  villages  of  the  Pelopon- 
nesus. The  remains  of  its  former  magnificence  are  still 
considerable;  and  in  some  instances  they  exist  in  such 
a  state  of  preservation,  that  it  is  evident  the  buildings 
of  the  city  either  survived  the  earthquakes  said  to  have 
overwhelmed  them,  or  they  must  have  been  constructed 
in  some  later  period.  In  this  number  is  the  Theatre;  by 
much  the  finest  and  the  most  perfect  structure  of  the  kind  in 
all  Greece.    The  different  parts  of  the  city,   whereof  traces 

are 


Sicyoni^n 
Plain. 


Sicyon. 


Theatre, 


iO^SX^^^.i-'-r 


SFs5{i.{>#$w  xf/KTQ&wj**  ii-^fff^vrf^ 


7°20 


PELOPONNESQS. 


chap. xvii.  are  yet  visible,  serving  as  land-narks  in  pursuing  the 
observations  of  Pausanias,  may  be  comprehended  under  the 
following  heads: 

t.  A  Fountain. 

2.  The  Acropolis. 

3.  Foundations  of  Temples  and  other  buildings ;  some  of 
these  constructed  in  a  style  as  nassrve  as  the  Cyclopdan. 

4.  Very  grand  Walls,  although  biilt  of  brick  tiles. 

5.  Remains  of  a  Palace,  with  msny  chambers. 

6.  The  Theatre. 

7.  The  Stadium. 

8.  Remains  of  a  Temple  near  to  the  Theatre. 
Q.  Antient  Caves. 

10.  Antient  Paved  Way. 

11.  Ruins  in  the  plain  below  Sicton,  towards  the  sea. 

Of  some  of  these,  as  it  may  be  expected,  little  can  be  said, 
excepting  the  mere  enumeration  of  the  names  they  bear  in 
this  list ;  but  of  others,  a  more  particular  description  may  be 
given.  The  whole  city  occupied  an  elevated  situation;  but 
as  it  did  not  possess  one  of  those  precipitous  rocks 
for  its  Citadel  which  sustained  the  bulwarks  of  Athens, 
Argos,  Corinth,  and  many  other  Grecian  states,  little 
of  its  Acropolis  can  now  be  discerned,  saving  only  the 
vestiges  of  its  walls.  It  is  situat:d  above  a  place  now 
called  Palcco-Castro;  and  it  occupies  :hat  part  of  the  Ruins  of 
Sicyon  which  lies  upon  the  south-eas:  side,  towards  Corinth. 
Before  we  enter  upon  any  further  detail  of  the  Ruins  here, 
it  may  be   proper,   for  the   advantage  of  other    travellers 

as 


S I  C  Y  O  N. 


721 


Prospect  from 
the  Coilon. 


as  well  as  for  perspicuity/  of  description,  to  state  the  bearings     chap,  xvii 
of  some  principal  objects. 

From  the  village  of  Basilico,  the  Theatre  bears  .  .  w.  n.  w. 
The  Acro-Corinthus,  or  Citadel  of  Corinth    .  .  ;  s.e.  and  by  s.' 
The  mountain  Parnassus,  as  seen  in  Phocis   .  .  .  n. 

Thebes  in  Bceotia e.  n.  e. 

Whether  this  last  object  be  visible  or  not  is  very  doubtful ; 
but  it  was  a  place  called  Thiva  by  the  inhabitants,  lying  in 
the  direction  of  Thebes. 

Hence  it  will  be  evident  that  the  Ruins  of  Sicyon  occupy  a 
prominent  part  of  the  Sicyonian  territory,  extending  towards 
the  n.  N.  e.  into  the  Corinthian  Gulph;  and  that  they  lie 
along  a  ridge  above  the  Plain  of  Sicyon,  in  a  direction  from 
w.  n.  w.  to  e.  s.  e.  having  Parnassus  due  north.  The  Acro- 
polis, upon  the  s.  e.  side  of  the  city,  may  be  recognised, 
both  in  the  nature  of  its  walls,  which  are  very  antient, 
and  in  its  more  elevated  situation.  Hereabouts  we  observed 
the  fragments  of  architectural  ornaments,  and  some  broken 
columns  of  the  Ionic  order.  Near  to  the  Acropolis  may  also  be 
seen  the  Caves  before  mentioned,  as  in  the  vicinity  of  Athens: 
in  all  probability  they  were  rather  the  sepulchres1  than  the 

habitations 


(1)  It  was  highly  satisfactory  to  the  author  to  find  his  observations  by  the  compass 
accidentally  confirmed  by  such  respectable  authority  as  that  of  Sir  George  Wheler,  who, 
observing  the  bearing  of  Basilico  from  the  Acro-Corinthus  (See  Journ.  into  Greece, 
p.  442.  Lond.  1682)  exactly  in  the  opposite  direction,  states  it  to  be  North-west  and 
by  North. 

(2)  The  Sepulchres  of  the  Sicyonians  in  the  second  century  consisted  of  a  heap  of 
earth,  above  which  stood  a  stele,  resting  upon  a  stone  base,  and  surmounted  by  a  species 
of  ornament  resembling  that  part  of  the  roof  of  a  temple  which  was  called  "the  Eagle." 
(Vid.   Paus.  Cor.  c.y.p.  126.    ed.  Kuhn.)    The  history  of  the  Eagle  upon  Grecian 

temples 


VOL.  in. 


4  Z 


!S3i^3  aj¥ftj« 


t+r3±K*im* 


7<2C2 


PELOPONNESUS. 


chap.  xvn.    habitations  of  the  earliest  inhabitants,  although  this  cannot 

now  be  ascertained  :   they  are  all  lined   with  stucco  :   and 

Pausanias  mentions  certain  secret  recesses1  belonging  to  the 

Sicyonians,  in  which  particular  images  were  kept  for  their 

annual  processions   to   the   Temple  of  Bacchus  beyond   the 

Theatre.    There  is  still  an  antient  paved  road  that  conducted 

to   the  Citadel   by  a   narrow  entrance  between  rocks,    so 

contrived  as   to   make   all  who   approached   the  gate  pass 

through  a  defile  that  might  be  easily  guarded.    Within  the 

Acropolis  are  the  vestiges  of  buildings,  perhaps  the  Hiera 

of  Fortuna  Acr,ea,  and  of  the  Dioscuri2;  and  below  it 

is  a  fountain,  seeming  to  correspond  with  that  of  Stazusa, 

mentioned  by  Pausanias  as  near  to  the  gate3.     The  remains 

of  a  temple,    built  in   a   very  massive   style    of  structure, 

occurs    on    the   western    side    of   the   village    of  Basilico; 

and  in  passing  the  fosse   of  the  Citadel  to   go  towards  the 

Theatre,  which   is   beyond   the   Acropolis*,    a   subterraneous 

passage  may  be  observed,  exactly  above  which  the  Temple 

seems 

temples  is  briefly  this.  The  souls  of  kings,  over  whose  sepulchres  temples  were  originally 
erected,  were  believed  {pytioQai)  to  be  carried  to  heaven  upon  eagles'  wings.  At  the 
funeral  it  was  customary  to  let  an  eagle  fly  over  the  grave.  In  allusion  to  this,  Lycophron 
calls  Achilles  dtrov,  an  eagle,  because  he  carried  about  Hector's  body.  An  eagle,  there- 
fore, with  expanded  wings,  was  formerly  represented  upon  the  tympanum  of  the  pedi- 
ment in  all  temples;  and  ultimately,  this  part  of  the  edifice  itself  received  the  appellator. 
of  AET02,  the  Eagle. 

(1)  "AXXa   ci   dyaXpara  iv  'AlIOPPHTHI  ^Lttcvuvioti   tori.     Pausan.  Cor.  7.  c.  7. 
p.  127.  ed.  Kuhnii. 

(2)  'Ev  hi  rjji  vvv  a.Kpo7r6\it  TVvj/c  itpov  iariv  aKpalce:,   p.  era  hi  avro  AiocrKoupuiy 
Pausan.  ibid. 

(3)  Tlpot;  hi  Tt)  TTijXt],  7rny}')  iart,  k.t.X.     Ibid. 

(4)  Pausanias  says,  viro  Tr\v  dttpdwoXiv.     Ibid. 


P" 


SICYONi 


723 


seems  to  have  stood ;  as  if  by  means  of  this  secret   duct    vCHAP- xv". 

persons  belonging  to  the  sanctuary  might  have  had  ingress 

and  egress  to  and   from   the  Temple,  without  passing  the 

gate  of  the  Citadel.    This  was  perhaps   the  identical  place 

called  Cosmeterium  by  Pausanias",  whence  the  mystic  images 

were  annually  brought  forth  in  the  solemn  procession   to 

the  Temple  of  Bacchus,   situated  near  the  Theatre  and  the 

Stadium.     Some  of  the  remains  enumerated  in  the  list  may 

be  those  of  Venetian  edifices ;  as,  for  example,  the  ruin  of 

the  Palace:    the  palaces    of    antient    Sicyon   being   highly 

splendid,  and  all  built   of  marble.     Indeed   an  expression 

used  by  Pausanias  seems  to  imply  that  the  Acropolis,  as  it 

existed  in  his  time6,  was  not  the  most  antient  Citadel.    The 

sea  is  at  the  distance  of  about  a  league  from  Basilico;   but 

the    commanding   eminence   upon    which    the    Ruins    are 

situated  affords  a  magnificent  view  of  the  Corinthidn  Gulph 

and  of  all  the  opposite  coast  of  Phocis.    There  is,  however, 

no  part   of  the  antient  city  where   this   prospect  is   more 

striking  than  from  the  Theatre.    This  structure  is  almost 

in  its  entire  state ;  and  although  the  notes  we  made  upon 

the  spot   do    not  enable  us   to  afford    a   description  of  its 

form    and    dimensions    equally    copious    with  that  already 

given  of  the  famous  Theatre  of  Polycletus  in  Epidauria,  yet 

this  of  Sicyon  may  be  considered   as  surpassing  every  other 


in 


(5)   Tavra    /mif    KaQ'   'Ikchttov    Jfroc    vvktI    h    to    Aiovilarov   bk    rov    kuXov/xcvov 
K02MHTHPI0T  Kofxi^ovai.    Paus.  Cor.  c.7.  p.  127.  ed.  Kuhnii. 
(Q)  'Ev  ct  rtj  vvv  'AKpowokEi,  k.  t.  X.     Ibid. 


ft-^R* 


ll~J,J*TIKJ.rF*:*gT?-4 


724 


PELOPONNESUS. 


chap,  xvi f.  Jn  Greece,  in  the  harmony  of  its  proportions,  the  costliness 
of  the  workmanship,  the  grandeur  of  the.  Coilon,  and  the 
stupendous  nature  of  the  prospect  presented  to  all  those 
who  were  seated  upon  its  benches.  If  it  were  cleared  of 
the  rubbish  about  it,  and  laid  open  to  view,  it  would  afford 
an  astonishing  idea  of  the  magnificence  of  a  city  whose 
luxuries  were  so  great  that  its  inhabitants  ranked  among  the 
most  voluptuous  and  effeminate  people  of  all  Greece.  The 
stone-work  is  entirely  of  that  massive  kind  which  denotes 
a  very  high  degree  of  antiquity.  Part  of  the  Scene  remains, 
together  with  the  whole  of  the  seats,  although  some  of  the 
latter  now  lie  concealed  by  the  soil.  But  the  most  remarkable 
parts  of  the  structure  are  two  vaulted  passages  as  entrances  ; 
there  being  one  on  either  side,  at  the  extremities  of  the 
Coilon,  close  to  the  Scene,  and  about  half  way  up ;  leading 
into  what  we  should  call  the  side-boxes  of  a  modern  theatre. 
Immediately  in  front,  the  eye  roams  over  all  the  Gulph  of 
Corinth,  commanding  islands,  promontories,  and  distant 
summits  towering  above  the  clouds.  To  a  person  seated 
in  the  middle  of  the  Cavca,  a  lofty  mountain  with  bold 
sweeping  sides  occupies  the  front  of  the  view  beyond  the 
Gulph,  being  placed  exactly  in  the  centre,  the  sea  inter- 
vening between  its  base  and  the  Sicyonian  coast ;  and  this 
mountain  marks  the  part  of  Boeotia  now  pointed  out  by  the 
natives  of  Basilico  as  (Thiva)  Thebes ;  but  to  a  person  who 
is  placed  upon  the  seats  which  are  upon  the  right  hand  of 
those  in  front,  Parnassus,  here  called  Lafrura  from  its 
antient  name  Lycorea,  most  nobly  displays  itself:  this 
mountain    is    only    thus    visible    in    very    clear    weather. 

During 


SIC  YON. 

Durino*    the    short    time    we    remained    in    the    Theatre, 
although    a    conspicuous    object    when    we    first    entered, 
it    was  afterwards  covered    by  vast  clouds,    which    rolled 
majestically  over  its  summit,  and  finally  concealed  it  from 
our  view. 

725 

CHAP.  XVII. 

The  Stadium  is  on  the  right  hand  of  a  person  facing  the 
Theatre ;  and  it  is  undoubtedly  the  oldest  work  remaining 
of  all  that  belonged  to  the  antient  city.  The  walls  exactly 
resemble  those  of  Myccnce  and  Tiryns:  we  may  therefore 
class  it  among  the  examples  of  Cyclopean  masonry.  It  is  in 
other  respects  the  most  remarkable  structure  of  the  kind 
existing ;  combining  at  once  a  natural  and  an  artificial 
character.  The  persons  by  whom  it  was  formed,  finding  that 
the  mountain  whereon  the  Coilon  of  the  Theatre  has  been 
constructed  would  not  allow  a  sufficient  space  for  another 
oblong  Cuvca  of  the  length  requisite  to  complete  a  Stadium, 
built  up  an  artificial  rampart,  reaching  out  into  the  plain 
from  the  mountain  towards  the  sea:  so  that  this  front- work 
resembles  half  a  Stadium  thrust  into  the  semi- circular 
cavity  of  a  Theatre ;  the  entrances  to  the  area,  included 
between  both,  being  formed  with  great  taste  and  effect 
at  the  two  sides  or  extremities  of  the  semicircle.  The 
antient  masonry  appears  in  the  front-work  so  placed.  The 
length  of  the  whole  area  equals  two  hundred  and  sixty- 
seven  paces;  the  width  of  the  advanced  bastion  thirty-six 
paces;  and  its  height  twenty-two  feet  six  inches.  Exactly 
in  the  front  of  this  projecting  rampart,  belonging  to  the 
outer  extremity  of  the  Stadium,  but  at  a  short  distance 
below  it,  in  the  plain,  are  also  the  remains  of  a  Temple ; 
completing  the  plan  of  this  part  of  the  antient  city ;  which 

was 


Stadium. 


Temple  of 
Bacchus. 


t&Zfifci.h 


r&S3G^ai-  flK©)Wt      ^H  *^P  ?»«** 


?26 


CHAP.  XVII. 


Other 
Antiquities 


PELOPONNESUS. 

was  here  terminated  on  its  western  side  by  three  magnificemt 
structures,  a  Theatre,  a  Stadium,  and  a  Temple;  as  it  wais 
bounded  towards  its  eastern  extremity  by  its  Acropolis.    We 
can  be  at  no  loss   for  the   name  of  this   Temple,  althouglh 
nothing  but  the  ground-plot  of  it  now  remain  :   it  is  dis- 
tinctly stated   by  Pausanias    to    have   been    the   Temple  of 
Bacchus,  which  occurred  beyond  the  Theatre  to  a  person 
coming  from  the  Citadel1;  and  to  this   Temple  were  made 
those   annual   processions   before    alluded    to,   which    took 
place   at    night    and    by   the   light   of  torches,    when    the 
Sicyomans  brought  hither  the  mystic  images,  called  Baccheu.s 
and  Lysius,   chanting  their  antient  hymns8.    All  around  the 
Theatre  and  Stadium,  besides  the  traces  of  this  Temple,  other 
ruins  may  be  noticed,  but  less  distinct  as  to  their  form.     In 
the  plain  towards  the  sea  are  many  more,  perhaps  extending 
to  the  Sicyonian  haven,  which  we  did  not  visit.    The  Theatre 
itself  was  of  a  much  more  extensive  nature  than  other  edifices 
of  the  same  kind  commonly  are:  its  sides  and  front  projected 
far  into  the  plain.    We  were  not  successful  in  our  search  for 
inscriptions ;  but  the  peasants  sold  to  us  many  medals  and 
small   terra-cotta  vessels,   which   they  said  they  had  found 
in  caves  near  the  spot.     Among    the    latter   we    collected 
lachrymatories  of  more  antient  form  and  materials  than  any 
thing  we  had  ever  before  observed  of  the  same  kind.    These 
vessels,    as  it  is   well   known,   were  often    made   of  glass, 

and 


(1)  Merd  cl  ro  dtctTpov,  Atovvaov  vao<:  iari.     Paus.  Cor.  c.  7-  p.  1^7-    e^-  Kuhnii. 

(2)  Ko/ul£ov(ri  $£  fxtrd  laicoiy  re  tjfifjiivav  teal    vfivuv  Ivivupluv.    tjytirai  fitv  c$v 
i)y  BAKXEION  ovofxd^ovaiv,  k.  t.  \.    rWcu  cc  6  tcaXov/bicpos  AT2I02.      Ibid. 


S  I  C  Y  0  N. 


727 


and  more  antiently  of  earthen-ware-,  being  diminutive  as 
to  their  size,  and  of  delicate  workmanship  :  but  the  lachry- 
matory phials,  in  which  the  Sicyonians  treasured  up  their 
tears,  deserve  rather  the  name  of  bottles:  they  are  nine 
inches  long,  two  inches  in  diameter,  and  contain  as  much 
fluid  as  would  fill  a  phial  of  three  ounces ;  consisting  of 
the  coarsest  materials,  a  heavy  blue  clay  or  marl.  But 
we  also  collected  little  circular  cups  like  small  salt-cellars, 
two  inches  in  diameter,  and  one  inch  in  height,  (which  are 
said  to  be  found  in  great  abundance  at  Sicy on,)  of  a  much 
more  elegant  manufacture,  although  perhaps  nearly  as 
antient.  When  we  first  saw  them,  we  believed  that  they 
had  been  made  of  pale  unbaked  clay,  dried  only  in  the  sun ; 
but  upon  a  nearer  examination  we  perceived  that  they 
had  once  been  covered  with  a  red  varnish,  and  that  this 
covering  had  actually  decomposed,  and  almost  disappeared. 
Hence  some  inference  may  be  deduced  as  to  their  immense 
antiquity ;  instances  having  never  occurred  before  of  the 
spontaneous  decomposition  of  the  varnish  upon  antient 
terra-cotta  vessels  preserving  their  entire  forms.  It  is 
known  to  every  person  who  has  attended  to  the  subject, 
that  the  most  powerful  acids  produce  no  effect  whatsoever 
upon  their  surfaces,  and  that  some  of  the  oldest  terra-cottas 
yet  discovered  in  Greece  are  remarkable  for  the  high  degree 
of  lustre  exhibited  by  the  black  varnish  with  which  they  are 
invested.  The  case  may  perhaps  be  different  with  the  red 
varnish  ;  and  possibly  the  examples  of  pottery  found  in 
Grecian  sepulchres,  and  believed  to  have  been  made  of 
unbaked    clay,   with  surfaces  which  moulder  beneath    the 

fingers 


CHAP.  XVII. 


ATT3SI        ^M 


728 


PELOPONNESUS. 


chap.xvh.     fingers    and    have    a    pale    earthy  aspect,    may    owe    this 
appearance  entirely  to   the  degree  of  decomposition  they 
Medals.         have    sustained.     The    medals    which    we    collected    here 
consisted    principally   of    the    bronze    coinage    of   Sicyon ; 
having  on  one  side  a  Dove  represented  flying,  and  upon  the 
other  the  letters  2,  21,  or  2IK.     Some  were  also  brought  to 
us  of  the  Roman  Emperors  :  and,  among  these,  one  with 
the  head  of  Severus ;  and  upon  the  obverse  side,  a  boy  upon 
a  dolphin,  with  a  tree.    The  whole  illustration  of  this  subject 
is  in  Pausanias:  it  relates  to  a  fable  from  which  the  Isthmian 
Games  were  said  to  have  derived  their  origin.    The  tree  is 
that  Pine  which  was  shewn  near  to  the  town  of  Cromion,  as  a 
memorial  of  one  of  the  exploits  of  Theseus.    Near  to  it  stood 
an  altar  of  Melicerta,  who  was  brought  thither  by  a  dolphin, 
and  afterwards  buried  upon  the  spot  by  Sisyphus  ;  in  honour 
of  whom  the  Isthmian  Games  were  said  to  have  been  insti- 
tuted '.    It  is  always  easy  to  procure  bronze  medals  in  Greece  ; 
but  the  Albanian  peasants  do  not  readily  part  with  those 
which  are  of  silver;  because  they  decorate  the  head-dresses 
of  their  women  with  these  pieces.     They  may  however   be 
tempted  by  newly  coined  pardhs,  which  answer  for  the  same 
purpose ;  and  we  had  accordingly  orovided  ourselves  with 
a  small  cargo,  fresh  from  the  mint     In  exchange  for  this 
base  but  shining  coin,  we  obtained  a  few  silver  medals  of 
Sicyon,    and   one   of  uncommon   rarity  of  Pylus  in   Elis. 
A  single  and  imperfect  impression  cf  this  last  coin  exists  in 

the 

(1)  Vid.  Pausan.  Cor.  c.  1.  p.  111.    ed.  Kuhnii. 


SIC  YON  TO  CORINTH.  /29 

■ 
the  Collection  of  Paris.    That  which  we  obtained  exhibited  in    chap.xvh. 

front  a  bull  standing  upon  a  dolphin,  with  the  letters  /1Y; 

and  for  the  obverse  side  an  indented  square.     Any  silver 

medal  in  their  possession  might  be  bought  of  these  poor 

peasants  for  a  few  new  pardhs,   not  worth  a  penny  ;   but  if 

paid  in  old  coin,  they  would  not  part  with  one  for  the  same 

number   of  piastres.     Ibrahim,  it  is   true,  had  a  summary 

way  of  settling   these   matters  ;    and  by  demanding  every 

thing    a   coup    de  baton,    shortened    all    treaties,    whether 

for  horses,    food,   lodging,    or    antiquities,  by    the   speedy 

dispersion   of  all   whom  he  approached.      For  this  reason, 

whenever  we  wished  to  deal  with   the   natives,    we    took 

especial    care    to   send    him  out   of    the   way.     After    our 

return  to  the  village  of  Basilico,  we  dismissed  him  with  the 

baggage ;    and    the  people   rinding  themselves  to  be  secure 

from  Turkish  chastisement,  came  round  us  with  their  wives 

and  children,  bringing  all  the  antiquities  they  could  collect. 

We  then  set  out  for  Corinth  ;  and  as  we  descended  from 
the  Acropolis,  we  plainly  perceived  the  situation  of  the  gate 
to  have  been  in  the  fosse,  above  where  the  fountain  now  is. 
Here  we  noticed  the  remains  of  the  old  paved  way;  and  saw  Paved  Way. 
upon  our  right,  close  to  the  road,  a  place  where  the  rock 
had  been  evidently  hewn  into  a  square  pedestal,  as  for  the 
base  of  some  colossal  statue,  or  public  monument.  Thence 
we  continued  our  route  across  the  wide  and  beautiful  plain 
which  extends  between  Sicyon  and  Corinth,  bounded  bv 
the  sea  towards  the  north;  a  journey  of  three  hours  and  a 
half,  over  the  finest  corn  land  in  Greece,  and  through  olive- 
plantations  producing  the  sweetest  oil  in  the  world.     This 

vol.  in.  5  a  district 


^^H  ■  m§     ■  m 


730 


PELOPONNESUS. 


Fertility  of 
the  land. 


CHAP^xvn.  district  has  been  justly  extolled  by  antient1  and  by  modern 
authors2.  The  well-known  answer  of  an  antient  Oracle  to  a 
person  who  inquired  the  way  to  become  wealthy,  will  prove 
how  famous  the  soil  has  ever  been  for  its  fertility :  he  was 
told  to  "  get  possession  of  all  the  land  between  Corinth  and 
Sicyon."  Indeed,  a  knowledge  of  the  country  is  all  that  is 
necessary  to  explain  the  early  importance  of  the  cities  for 
which  it  was  renowned.  Both  Sicyon  and  Corinth  owed 
their  origin  to  this  natural  garden  ;  and  such  is  even  now 
its  value  under  all  the  disadvantageous  circumstances  of 
Turkish  government  and  neglected  cultivation,  that  the 
failure  of  its  annual  produce  would  cause  a  famine  to  be  felt 
over  all  the  surrounding  districts3. 

Within  a  mile  of  Corinth  we  passed  a  Fountain  in  a 
cavern  upon  our  right;  formed  by  a  dropping  rock  consisting 
of  a  soft  sand-stone.  Farther  up  the  hill,  and  upon  the  same 
side  of  the  road,  as  we  entered  the  straggling  town  now 
occupying  the  site  of  the  antient  city,  we  observed  some 
Ruins,  and  a  quantity  of  broken  pottery  scattered  upon  the 
soil.  The  old  city  occupied  an  elevated  level  above  the 
rich  plain  we  had  now  passed ;  and  upon  the  edge  of  this 
natural  terrace,  where  it  begins  to  fall  towards  the  corn 
land,  we  found  the  fluted  shaft  of  a  Doric  pillar  of  limestone, 

equal 


Corinth. 


(J)  See   the  authors  cited  by  Barthelemy ;    Athen.  lib.  v.  cap.  19.  p.  21 9.    Liv. 
lib.  xxvii.  cap.  31.    Schol.  Aristoph.  in  Av.  v.  969. 

(2)  Wheler's  Journey  into  Greece,  Book  VI.  p.  443.    Lond.  1682. 

(3)  "  And  its  plenty  failing,  brings  most  certainly  a  famine  upon  their  neighbour 
round  about  them."     Wheler  s  Journey  into  Greece,  p.  443.     Lond.  1682. 


CORINTH. 


731 


equal  in  its  dimensions  to  any  of  the  columns  of  the  Temple    CHAP-  xvu. 
of  Jupiter  Olympius  at  Athens  :  it  was  six  feet  and  one  inch  in 
diameter.    Close  to  this  we  observed  the  ground-plot  of  a 
building,  once   strongly  fortified  ;  that   is  to  say,   a  square 
platform  fronting  the  plain  and  the  sea :  on  this  side  of  it  is  a 
precipice,  and  its  three  other  sides  were  surrounded  by  a  fosse. 
The  area  measures  sixty-six  paces  by  fifty-three ;  its  major 
diameter  being  parallel  to  the  sea  shore.     Upon  the  opposite 
side,  within  the  fosse,  are  also  the  remains  of  other  founda- 
tions; possibly  of  a  bridge  or  causeway,  leading  into  the  area 
on  that  side.     The  remarkable  fountain  before  mentioned 
does    not   here  guide  us,    amidst  the  mazy  description   of 
Pausanias,  to  the  original  name  of  this  building.    Corinth  was 
full  of  fountains  ;  there  was  no  city  in  Greece  better  supplied 
with  water4;  many  of  those  fountains  were  supplied  by  means 
of  aqueducts5:  but  if  we  find  a  passage  in  Pausanias  that 
seems  to  allude  to  the  remarkable  circumstance  of  a  dropping 
spring,    within    a    cavern,    we    may    perhaps    succeed    in 
establishing   a  point  of  observation  for  ascertaining  other 
objects   in   its  neighbourhood.     An  allusion  of  this  nature 
occurs  where  he  mentions  the  water  of  the  Nymph  Pirene, 
who  poured  forth  such  abundance  of  tears  for  the  loss  of 

her 


Fountain  oi 
the  Nymph 
Pirene, 


(4)  K.pijvui  he  TroXkal  fxcv  dvd  rrjv  iroXiv  rtwoltjvTai  vueav,  are  cityddvov 
peovros  aot3ti>  vfUctToe.  Paus.  Cor.  c.  3.  p.  118.  ed  Kuhn.  "Eart  cc  Kal  ruv 
fptuTuf  evrropia  Kara  rrjv  rd\iy.    Strabon.  Geog.  lib.  viii.  p.  550.     ed.  Oxon. 

(5)  The  Emperor  Adrian  brought  water  to  Corinth  from  Stymphalus,  written 
Stemphylus  ir.  the  edition  of  Pausanias  above  cited.     Vid.  Paus.  Cor.  ut  supra. 


■       ■    ■ 


732 


CHAP.  XVII. 


PELOPONNESUS. 

her  son  Cenchrias,  when  slain  by  Diana,  that  she  wais 
metamorphosed  into  a  fountain'.  Even  the  circumstance 
of  the  cellular  cavity  whence  the  water  flows  appears  als^o 
to  have  been  noticed  by  Pausanias ;  in  whose  time  it  wais 
beautified  with  white  marble2.  This  weeping  spring  may 
therefore  be  considered  the  same  with  that  denominated 
by  him  the  fountain  of  the  Nymph  Pirene  ;  as  it  occurs 
in  the  road  leading  from  Corinth  to  Lechceum  on  the  Sicyoniam 
side  of  the  Isthmus,  precisely  where  that  fountain  wais 
situated.  This  point  being  established,  we  might  expect  tio 
make  the  fountain  a  land-mark  for  ascertaining  the  relative 
position  of  other  objects.  But  Strabo  has  given  the  samie 
name  to  another  spring  at  the  base  of  the  Acrocorinthus  ; 
and  Pausanias  allows  that  this  was  not  the  only  fountain 
called  Pirene3.  The  spacious  area  belonging  to  the. fortress 
where  the  Doric  pillar  lies,  relates  to  a  structure  so  lon<£ 
rased,  that  it  may  have  been  overlooked  by  Pausanias,  as  it 

was 


(1)  Mtra  to  avro  ttrocck  tart  ttjq  JJetpfjvv^  Is  to  vcup.  'tart  £t  civrij  \iyovony, 
6>c  >j  Tletpijvn  ycvoiTO  vtto  ecucpvuv  it,  dvQpMirov  irr\yrj,  tov  irat?a  odupopcvtj  K.iy~ 
\piuv  vTroWpTLfxtcos  uicovarjt:  diroQavovTa.     Pans.  Cor.  c.  3.  p.  117-    ed.  Kuhn. 

(2)  Ibid.  The  water  of  this  spring  was  said  to  be  metv  t)lv.  Upon  these  words 
Kuhnius  adds  the  following  note:  "  Unde  ex  hoc  font  e  aquam  petclant  in  usus  domes  ticos 
puelloe  Corinthiorum,  uti  patet  exemplo  La'idos  ad  hue  puellce  vdpotyopovcnjr,  aVe  rtjc 
nft(o>/V?/cj  lib.  xiii.  Jthencci.  Idem  hie  lib.  ii.  defontis  hujus  aqua  :  orafytj/o-ac  to  «Vo 
rns  iv  KoptvOoy  \\ttpi]vr]<;  KU.\ovp:ivr)c,  bhup,  KovtyoTtpov  rdyruy  tvpov  ruv  Kara 
r»jV  'EAXdcJa,  quum  ad  libram  exegissem,  inquit,  aquam  Pyrcnes  /otitis  Corinthii, 
levissimam  earn  omnium  in  tola  Grcecid  deprehendi."  Vid.  Annot.  Kuhnii  in  Paus. 
lib.ii.  c.3.  p.  117.     Lips.lQgQ. 

(3)  Vid.  Paus.  in  Corinth,  c.  5.  p.  122.  ed.  Kuhn.  Strabon.  Geog.  lib.  viii. 
p.  550.     ed.  OxoTi. 


C  O  R  I  N  T  II. 

was  by  modern  travellers  until  our  arrival  ?  and  if  this  be  the 
case,  it  may  be  a  relique  of  the  Sisypheum  ;  a  mole,  or  bul- 
wark, not  mentioned  by  that  writer,  but  noticed  by  Diodorus 
Siculus  and  by  Strabo.  As  Chandler  has  placed  the  Sisypheum 
elsewhere,  we  shall  presently  have  occasion  to  say  something 
further  concerning  this  structure.  The  Corinthians  had  also 
a  Hieron  to  all  the  Gods\  where  there  was  a  statue  of 
Neptune  with  a  Dolphin  spouting  forth  water ;  but  the  water 
of  the  Dolphin  was  conveyed  by  means  of  an  aqueduct,  and 
was  not  a  natural  spring'. 

In  going  from  the  area  of  this  building  towards  the 
magnificent  remains  of  a  temple  now  standing  above  the 
Bazar  whence  perhaps  the  Doric  pillar  already  mentioned 
may  have  been  removed,  we  found  the  ruins  of  antient 
buildings ;  particularly  of  one  partly  hewn  in  the  rock 
opposite  to  the  said  Temple.  The  outside  of  this  exhibits 
the  marks  of  cramps  for  sustaining  slabs  of  marble  once 
used  in  covering  the  walls;  a  manner  of  building  perhaps 

not 


(4)  Qfote  iraoiv'lcpov.     Pausan.  in  Corinth,  c.  2.  p.  116-     ed.  Kuhn. 

(5)  The  curious  marble  discovered  by  the  Earl  of  Aberdeen  at  Corinth,,  and  since 
brought  to  England,  which  was  found  covering  the  mouth  of  an  antient  well,  may 
have  been  the  identical  Hieron  here  alluded  to  by  Pausanias.  The  word  'lepdvj  it  is 
true,  is  translated  Templum  by  Am asceus ;  but  it  does  not  appear  probable  that  this 
could  be  the  author's  meaning;  because  he  is  actually  speaking  of  a  Temple  (Tj/'yijc 
veto*,),  by  which  he  says  the  Hieron  stood.  riapd  tie  avro  OtoUj  vdaiv  ctrriv  iipdv. 
It  is  therefore  at  least  probable  that  all  he  intends,  in  this  passage,  by  the  word  Hieron 
is  the  representation  of  the  Heathen  Deities  upon  the  marble  bas-relief  that  covered 
the  mouth  of  a  well  by  which  the  Temple  of  Fortune  stood.  If  all  the  Hiera  of 
Pausanias  were  to  be  translated  Temples,  there  would  have  been  more  temples  in 
Greece  than  in  the  whole  world  besides. 


i^H 


VfcG.^tHS 


^U.-^-. 


■  ji^.Aav.^ 


^-e'V.  w»v^;i.i 


/34  PELOPONNESUS. 

chap.  xvii.  not  of  earlier  date  than  the  time  of  the  Romans.  Pliny 
mentions  the  time  when  this  kind  of  ornament  began  to  be 
introduced  at  Rome1.  The  Greeks  sometimes  decorated 
marble  edifices  after  the  same  manner,  but  with  plates  of 
metal'1.  In  this  building  were  several  chambers  all  hewn  in 
the  rock,  and  one  of  them  has  still  an  oblong  window 
remaining.  We  then  visited  the  Temple.  It  has  been 
described  by  all  travellers  for  near  a  century  and  a  half. 
In  JVkeler's  time  it  had  eleven  Doric  pillars  standing3;  the 
same  number  remained  when  Chandler  visited  the  place4. 
We  found  only  seven  remaining  upright  :  but  the  fluted 
shaft  before  mentioned  may  originally  have  belonged  to 
this  building,  the  stone  being  alike  in  both ;  that  is  to  say, 
common  limestone,  not  marble ;  and  the  dimensions  are 
perhaps  exactly  the  same  in  both  instances,  if  each  column 
could  be  measured  at  its  base.  When  Wilder  was  here,  the 
pillars  were  more  exposed  towards  their  bases  ;  and  being 
there  measured,  he  found  them  to  equal  eighteen  feet  in 
circumference,  allowing  a  diameter  of  six  feet  for  the 
lower  part  of  the  shaft  of  each  pillar.  Only  Jive  columns 
of  the   seven  now  support  an  entablature.     We  measured 

the 


(1)  "  Prim  urn  Romae  parietes  crusta  marmoris  operuisse  totius  domus  suae  in  Coelio 
monte  Cornelius  Nepos  tradidit  Mamurram  Formiis  natum,  equitem  Romamim,  prse- 
fectum  fabrorum  C.  Caesaris  in  Gallia."  Plin.  Hist.  Nat.  lib.  xxxvi.  c.  6.  torn.  III. 
p.  477.     L.  Bat.  1635. 

(2)  See  the  description  given  of  the  Gymnasium  at  Alexandria  Troas,  in  the  former 
Section. 

(3)  See  Wheler's  Journ.  into  Greece,  p.  440.    Load.  1682. 

(4)  Trav.  in  Greece,  p.  239.    Oxf.  1776. 


CORINTH. 


735 


the  circumference  of  these,  (as  we  conceived,  about  three  chap.xvh. 
feet  from  their  bases,)  and  found  it  to  equal  seventeen  feet 
two  inches.  Each  column  consists  of  one  entire  piece 
of  stone  ;  but  their  height,  instead  of  being  equal  to  six 
diameters,  the  true  proportion  of  the  Doric  shaft  according 
to  Pliny,  docs  not  amount  to  four.  The  destruction  that 
has  taken  place,  of  four  columns  out  of  the  eleven  seen 
by  Wheler  and  Chandler,  had  been  accomplished  by  the 
Governor,  who  used  them  in  building  a  house;  first  blasting 
them  into  fragments  with  gunpowder.  Chandler  suspected 
this  temple  to  have  been  the  Sisyphcum  mentioned  by  Strabobt  suypMum. 
but  without  assigning  any  reason  for  this  conjecture.  Nothing 
can  be  easier  than  an  arbitrary  disposal  of  names  among 
the  scanty  reliques  of  a  city  once  so  richly  adorned;  nor  can 
any  thing  be  more  difficult  than  to  prove  that  such  names 
have  been  properly  bestowed.  The  Sisyphe'um  was  a  building 
of  such  uncertain  form,  that  Sir  oho,  eighteen  centuries  ago, 
could  not  positively  pronounce  whether  it  had  been  a  temple 
or  a  palace ";  whereas  the  first  sight  of  this,  even  in  its 
present  dilapidated  state,  would  have  been  sufficient  to  put 
that  matter  beyond  dispute.  The  Sisyphe'um  was  situated 
below  the  Fountain  Pirene,  and  built  (Asyaf  "ki'&cS)  with  ivhite 
stone;  an  expression  generally  used  to  signify  marble,  both 
by   Strabo  and   by  Pausanias.     The  present  building  does 

"hot 


(5)  Vjto  of  Tij  Titipijuri  to  1tav(f>£tdv  ivriv,  ifpov  tivoc,  y  fiaaiXttov,  Xtvtcy  Xtvu 
vwroir)nivov,  (sic  leg.  Casaub.)  Siaaufav  ipeiiria  ovk  oXiya.  Strabon.  Geog.  lib.  viii. 
p.  550.    ed.  Oxon. 

(6)  Ibid. 


WW 


736' 


CHAP.  XVII. 


Temple  of 
Octavia. 


PELOPONNESUS.1 

not  answer  to  this  description.  The  Sisypheum  is  not  once 
mentioned  by  Paasanias ;  which  could  not  have  been  the  case, 
if  its  remains  were  of  this  magnitude.  The  only  antient 
author  by  whom  the  Sisypheum  has  been  noticed,  excepting 
by  Straho,  is  Diodorus  Siculus ;  who  describes  it  as  a  place 
strongly  fortified,  near  to  the  Citadel1.  As  to  the  real  his- 
tory of  this  very  antient  temple,  the  style  and  the  materials 
of  its  architecture  have  induced  some  to  refer  its  origin  to 
the  earliest  periods  of  the  Dorian  power  in  Peloponnesus. 
We  confess  we  are  not  of  this  opinion  :  the  disproportion 
of  the  length  of  the  pillars  to  their  diameters,  is  with  us 
an  argument,  rather  against,  than  for,  their  high  antiquity. 
If  we  may  credit  the  testimony  afforded  by  so  late  a  writer 
as  Martin  Ci'usius*,  founded  probably  upon  tradition, 
this  building  was  the  Temple  of  Juno ;  and  his  statement 
ao-rees  with  Pousaniasy  who  mentions  a  Hieron  of  Buncean 
Juno5,  below  the  Acrocorinthus :  but  as  it  amounts  almost 
to  a  certainty,  that  so  considerable  a  structure  must  have 
been  mentioned  by  the  latter  writer  with  a  more  distinct 
clue  as  to  its  situation,  there  seems  to  be  no  edifice 
noticed  by  him  with  which  it  more  accurately  corresponds, 
than  with  the  Temple  of  Octavia,  sister  of  Augustus  ;  unto 
whom  the  Corinthians  were  indebted  for  the  restoration 
of  their  city:   this  temple  occupied  the   same  situation  with 

respect 


(1)  Diodor.  Sicul.  lib.  xx.  p.  480-    cd.  IVesseling. 

(2)  Mart.  Crus.  Turcogrsecia. 

(3)  Tavrrj  teal  to  rij?  lWvaiac  tffTtv"Hpas  iipov.     Paus.  Cor.  c.  4.  p.  121.    ed 
Kuhn. 


^■199  it  -_!;*■—. max      v.-kj.-^,      <rc-s2tii,,.y»         sitf%»tl  9B^HBfl  ■■■■ 


■•>-.  ..»-.v»'-V^-»  v.-.M.  .«-.»..> 


yigmmsSgSGmm 


CORIN  T  H. 


7^7 


respect  to  the  Agora4  that  the  present  Ruin  does  with  regard    chap.xvii. 
to   the  Bazar ;   and   it   is   well  known,    that   however   the 
prosperity  of  cities  may  rise  or  fall,  the  position  of  a  public 
mart  for  buying  and  selling  usually  remains  the  same. 

While  we  were  occupied  in  examining  this  building,  and 
in  collecting  the  different  fragments  of  antient  pottery  scat- 
tered among  the  Ruins,  the  Governor  sent  to  desire  that  we 
would  visit  him.  We  found  him  sitting  in  a  mean  little  open  visit  to  the 
apartment,  attended  by  one  of  those  French  agents,  who,  under 
the  name  of  apothecaries,  carried  on,  at  this  time,  a  very 
regular  system  of  espionnage  throughout  the  Turkish  empire; 
and  especially  in  Greece.  This  gentleman  offered  to  be  our 
interpreter:  we  told  him  that  we  had  with  us  a  person  who 
always  acted  in  that  capacity  ;  but  as  the  Governor  seemed 
to  prefer  the  Frenchman,  we  acquiesced ;  and,  after  the 
usual  ceremony  of  pipes  and  coffee,  a  parley  began.  The 
first  questions  put  to  us  related  to  our  travels;  accompanied 
by  many  shrugs  and  shrewd  sarcasms  as  to  the  vagrant  life 
led  by  Djoicrs  in  general.  All  this  was  interpreted  to  us  by 
the  Frenchman,  interlarded  with  every  scurrilous  epithet  he 
could  pour  forth  against  the  old  Turk,  but  bowing  his  head 
all  the  while  with  great  seeming  gravity  and  decorum,  as  if 
he  were  bestowing  upon  him  the  most  honourable  titles. 
The  Governor  was  evidently  out  of  temper ;  and  presently 
the  cause  was  manifest.     "  Your  Tchohodar  has  been  here," 

said 


(4)   'Yirep   ct   djp  'AF0PAN   %txnv   'OKTABIA2   NAOZ,  k.t.X.     Pans.  Cor.    c.  3. 
p.  116.    ed.  Kuhnii. 


VOL.  III. 


5  B 


5*^7^0                                                               ■Jf^K                9*$?*? 

738  PELOPONNESUS. 

chap.  xvu.  saftd  he,  "  and  tells  me  you  intend  to  take  up  your  abode  in 
this  place,  that  you  may  repose  and  take  your  caif1 ;  but  you 
have  brought  me  no  present."  We  said  that  we  neither 
gave  nor  received  mere  gifts  of  ceremony.  "  Then  who  are 
ye?"  added  he  somewhat  sharply.  "English  {Effendies) 
Gentlemen,"  was  the  answer.  "  Effendies  truly  !  and  is  it 
like  an  Effendi  to  be  seen  picking  up  pieces  of  broken  pots, 
and  groping  among  heaps  of  rubbish  ?"  There  was  so  much 
apparent  reason  in  this  remark,  and  it  was  so  utterly  impos- 
sible to  explain  to  a  Mahometan  the  real  nature  or  object  of 
such  researches,  that  we  agreed  with  the  Frenchman  it  was 
best  to  let  him  have  his  opinion,  and,  passing  quietly  for 
paupers  beneath  his  notice,  make  our  obeisance  and  retire. 
This  was  the  first  instance,  since  we  quitted  the  Turkish 
frigate,  in  which  our  firman,  and  the  letter  from  the  Capudan 
Pasha,  had  failed  in  procuring  for  us  a  favourable  reception; 
and  we  began  to  fear  that  among  the  Turks,  especially  in 
the  distant  provinces,  our  credentials  would  have  little 
weight,  unaccompanied  by  bribes.  Ibrahim,  however,  main- 
tained that  it  was  all  owing  to  his  not  being  present  upon 
the  occasion;  and  desired  us  in  future  to  make  no  visits 
unaccompanied  by  him.  A  few  ceremonial  expressions,  and 
a  little  etiquette,  were  alone  wanting,  he  said ;  and  perhaps 
he  was  right. 

There  is  a  considerable  Ruin  consisting  entirely  of  brick- 
work, which  may  have  been    a   part  of  the  Gymnasium. 

We 

(l)  ^$   {Caify  or  Kqfy)  is  aliment  or  nourishment  in  Arab.  Diet. ;  but  in  Turkev 
the  word  Caif  is  often  used  to  denote  entertainment,  or  comfort. 


CORINTH. 


739 


We    did    not   succeed    in    finding    the    Theatre,    nor   any    chap.  xvii. 

remains  of  a  Stadium  ;   but  close  to  the  Bazar  we  saw  part  of      oatum. 

a  very  large  structure,  built  entirely  of  tiles,  or  thin  bricks. 

The  people  of  the  place  remembered  this  more  perfect;  and 

they  described  it  as  a  building   full  of  seats,  ranged   one 

above  the  other.     Possibly  therefore  it  may  have  been  the 

Oddum*;    unless    indeed    it   were   an   Amphitheatre,    or   a 

Tfieatre  raised  entirely  from  the  ground,  like  the  Colisdum 

at    Rome;    without   being  adapted    to    any   natural   slope. 

When  we  reached  the  house  where  we  were  to  pass  the 

night,  the  author  was  again  attacked  with  a  violent  paroxysm 

of  fever,  and  remained  until  the  morning  stretched  upon  the 

floor  in  great  agony.    The  air  of  Corinth  is  so  bad,  that  its 

inhabitants  abandon  the  place  during  the  summer  months. 

They  are  subject  to  the  malaria  fever,  and  pretend  to  remove 

it  by  all  those  superstitious  practices  which  are  common  in 

every  country  where  medicine  is  little  known.    We  procured 

here  some  terra-cottas  of  very  indifferent  workmanship,  and 

much  inferior  to  those  found  near  Argos ;   also  a  few  medals 

and  gems.     There  were  no  Inscriptions  ;   nor  was  there  to 

be  seen  a  single    fragment  of  antient  sculpture.     Such  is 

now  the  condition  of  this  celebrated  seat  of  antient  art  — 

this  renowned  city,  once  so  vain   of  its  high   reputation, 

and  of  the  rank  it  held  among  the  Pagan  States  ! 

We  resolved  to  devote  as  much  of  our  time  as  possible 
to   the   examination   of  the   Isthmus ;    for   although   but  a 

small 


Climate  of 
Corinth. 


(2)   Vid.  Pausan.  Corinth,  c.3.  p.  118.    ed.  Kuhnii. 


im* 


.GwiVi^V^WTr^W^iSft  l&tgm.    4?#.V6H     JfLy-i      ^^m  r^TM?* 


40 


PELQPONNESUS. 


chap.  xvn.  small  district,  it  had  been  hitherto  so  imperfectly  surveyed 
by  modern  travellers,  that  the  site  of  the  Isthmian  Games 
had  never  been  accurately  ascertained ;  and  Chandler,  and 
his  successors,  had  affirmed  that  "  neither  the  Theatre  nor 
the  Stadium  were  visible.1"  The  mischief  arising  from 
such  remarks  is  this ;  that  persons  who  come  afterwards, 
being  thereby  persuaded  that  all  due  diligence  has  been 
used  in  a  research  which  has  proved  fruitless,  willingly 
avoid  the  trouble  of  making  any  further  inquiry.  We  shall 
presently  show,  not  only  that  remains  of  the  Stadium,  of  the 
Temple,  and  of  the  Theatre,  do  yet  exist,  but  that  very 
considerable  traces  of  the  Isthmian  Toivn  itself  may  be 
discerned  ;  plainly  denoting  the  spot  once  consecrated  to 
the  Isthmian  solemnities,  which  continued  to  be  celebrated 
long  after  the  destruction  of  the  city  of  Corinth 2. 

(1)  See  Chandler's  Trav.  in  Greece,  p.  243.     Oxf.  1//6,  &c. 

(2)  Vid.  Pausan.  in  Corinthiac.   c.2.  p.  114.    ed.  Kuhn'ri. 


//      /•:      /.      /.      .  /      s 


P        i:        i.       o       r      a       \       it      ji       s      i        s 


Mttllru  .-,-  I 


CHAP.  XVIII. 


PELOPONNESUS  AND  ATTICA. 
Vidt  to  the  Isthmus— Remains  of  the  Antient  Vallum — Canal  of 'Nero 
—  Lechaeum —  Cinerary   receptacles   in    the   rocks — Remarkable 

Tumulus  — Acrocorinthus  —  Ascent   to   the    Citadel  —  Hiera 

Prospect  from  the  Summit — Hexamillia — Discovery   of  the  Town 

of  Isthmus—  Port  Schoenus — Temple  of  Neptune — Theatre 

Stadium — Sepulchre  o/Palaemon — Trees  from  which  Victors  in  the 

Isthmia  were  crowned— Extraordinary  Mart  for  Grecian  Medals 

Dress  of  the  Levant  Consuls— Pandean  Born — Cenchrese Bath 

of  Helen— Convangee  —  Cromyon—  Manners  of  the  Peasants— 

Scironian  Defile— Boundary  betiveen  Peloponnesus  and  Hellas 

KAKH  2KAAA— Entrance  of  Hellas—  Causes  of  the  celebrity  of 
Megara — The  modern  town— Inscriptions — Journey  to  Eleusis 
— Kerata — Eleusinian  Plain — Acropolis  of  Eleusis — Marble  Torso 
—The  Flowery  Well—  Aqueduct— Temple  of  Ceres— Statue  of  the 
-Goddess  —  Superstition  of  the  Inhabitants — Inscription  —  Sudden 
departure  for  Athens— Via  Sacra— Vast  extent  of  Antient  Thrace — 

The 


tS& 


^n^r^^mf^h^m^Ti^^  intwz.    7fmr\f%y*"-j 


742 


LHAP.XVIII. 


Visit  to  the 
Isthmus. 


Remains  of 
the  Antient 
Vallum. 


Canal  of 
Nero- 


PELOPONNESUS. 

The  Rheti — Elcusinian  Cephissus — Salt  Lake — Defile  of  Daphne 
— The  Rock  called  Poecile  — Temple  of  Venus  — Monastery  of 
Daphne — Hieron  of  Apollo — View  of  Athens  at  sunset — Athenian 
Cephissus — Site  of  the  Academy — Arrival  at  Athens — Negotiation 
with  ^eWaiwode — Return  to  Eleusis — Method  devised  for  removing 
the  Statue  of  Ceres — Difficulties  encountered — Success  of  the  under- 
taking— -Further  account  of  Eleusis — Long  Walls — Of  the  Rharian 
and  Thriasian  Plains — Temples  of  Triptolemus,  of  Neptune,  and 
of  Diana  Propylaea — Temple  of  Ceres — Port  of  Eleusis — Antient 
Theatre — Acropolis — Return  to  Athens. 

Upon  the  thirteenth  of  November  we  set  out  for  the 
Isthmus.  Before  leaving  the  town,  there  is  a  fountain  upon 
the  left  hand ;  and  opposite  to  it  there  are  the  ruins  of  some 
antient  building.  Soon  after,  we  observed  another  fountain 
upon  our  right :  and  here  may  be  observed  the  old  paved 
road  leading  from  the  natural  platform  whereon  the  city 
stood,  into  the  plain  of  the  Isthmus,  which  lies  below  this 
level.  We  descended  towards  it.  The  vestiges  of  antient 
buildings  are  visible  the  whole  way  down.  We  presently 
arrived  at  the  neck  of  the  Isthmus,  and  came  to  the  remains 
of  the  antient  wall  erected  by  the  Peloponnesians,  from  the 
Gulph  of  Corinth  to  the  Sinus  Saroniczis.  The  ground  here 
is  formed  in  such  a  manner  as  to  present  a  natural  rampart ; 
but  there  are  distinct  traces  of  the  old  Vallum ;  and  we  saw 
the  ruins  of  a  fortress,  or  of  some  other  building,  at  its 
termination  upon  the  Corinthian  side  of  the  Isthmus.  The 
remains  of  another  wall  may  be  also  traced  beyond  this, 
towards  the  north-east.  Here  we  found  what  interested  us 
much  more,  the  unfinished  Canal  begun  by  Nero,  exactly 
as  the  workmen  had  left  it,   in  a  wide  and  deep  channel, 

extending 


ISTHMUS  OF  CORINTH. 


743 


extending  N.  w.  and  s.  e.  and  reaching  from  the  sea  to  the 
N.  E.  of  Lechceum,  about  half  a  mile  across  the  Isthmus.  It 
terminates  on  the  s.  e.  side,  where  the  solid  rock  opposed  an 
insurmountable  obstacle  to  the  work ;  and  here  the  under- 
taking was  abandoned.  Close  to  the  spot  where  the  Canal 
ceases,  are  two  immense  tumuli ' ;  and  these,  in  the  general 
sacking  of  Corinthian  sepulchres  mentioned  by  Strabo2, 
seem  to  have  escaped  violation ;  for  their  entrances,  although 
visible,  appear  never  to  have  been  opened  since  they  were 
closed,  and  are  almost  buried.  Beneath  these  tombs  there 
are  sepulchres  in  the  rocks  ;  and  one  of  the  tumuli  seems  to 
be  stationed  over  a  sepulchral  cave  of  this  kind.  The 
remarkable  accuracy  of  Pausanias  is  perhaps  in  no  instance 
more  strikingly  manifested  than  in  the  description  he  has 
given  of  the  Canal ;  corresponding,  even  to  the  letter, 
with  its  present  appearance3.  We  followed  the  Canal  to  the 
shore.  Here  we  observed  that  the  rocks  had  been 
hewn  into  steps,  for  landing  goods  from  the  port  towards 
the  Canal  and  other  works.  The  remains  of  the  Temple  of 
Neptune  are  very  considerable  :  it  has  not  yet  ceased  to 
be  a  place  of  worship.  We  found  here  one  of  the  idol 
pictures  of  the  Greek  Church,  and  some  antient  vases, 
although  in  a  broken  state,  serving  as  vessels  and  offerings 
upon  the  present  altar.    There  is  a  bath  to  which  they  still 

bring 


CHAP.XVIII. 


Lechceum . 


(1)  See  the  Vignette  to  this  Chapter. 

(2)  Vid.  Strabon.  Geog.  lib.  viii.  pp.  553,554.    ed.  Oxon.  ISO/. 

(3)  Kat  oQev  pw  cioputrfftiv  tjp^avro,  cijXdv  inriv,  fc  Zi  to  7rsrpuZe<j  ov  irpoe^v- 
p>)oav  dpyflv.  Pansan.  in  Corinthiac.  c.  ] .  p.  112.  ed.  Kuhnii.  See  also  the  Vignette, 
to  this  Chapter. 


£w4*  ^m^xM     ysp&sg&x    ^sc       «(^s*srwva       «*me  ^fr,"*'i 


744 

PELOPONNESUS 

CHAP.XVIII. 


Cinerary 
receptacles 
in  the  rocks. 


bring  patients  for  relief  from  various  disorders.  A  shortt 
time  before  our  arrival,  this  antient  bath  was  covered  ;  butt 
wanting  materials  for  building  a  mill,  the  inhabitants  of  a 
neighbouring  village  blasted  the  rocks  ;  and  these  falling 
into  the  bath,  have  almost  filled  it.  The  water  of  it  is  verw 
clear  and  brilliant;  its  taste  slightly  brackish,  but  the  saline 
flavour  scarcely  perceptible.  It  comes  out  of  the  rock  from 
two  holes  into  the  bath,  and  thence  falls  into  the  sea- 
Great  part  of  the  ruined  buildings  and  walls  about  the  bath 
were  carried  off  when  the  mill  was  built.  At  noon  we  made 
the  following  estimate,  by  means  of  our  thermometer,  of 
the  temperature  of  the  atmosphere ;  of  the  water  of  this 
warm  chalybeate  spring  ;  and  also  of  the  water  of  the  sea. 

Atmosphere,  in  the  shade  .   .   .    68°  of  Fahrenheit. 

Water  of  the  bath,  in  the  shade,   88°. 

Water  of  the  sea 75'\ 

All  around  this  place  are  sepulchral  caves  hewn  in  the  rocks 
near  the  sea,  resembling  the  burial-places  in  the  neighbour- 
hood of  Jerusalem;  but  the  caves  here  are  much  smaller; 
and  the  recesses  within  them,  instead  of  being  intended  as 
receptacles  for  bodies,  were  evidently  niches  for  cinerary 
urns  ' ;  a  mode  of  sepulture  relating  rather  to  the  Romans 
than  to  the  Greeks  :  whence  it  may  be  proved  that  these 
excavations  cannot  be  more  antient  than  the  restoration  of 
Corinth  by  Julius  Caesar,  and  in  all  probability  they  are  of 
a  much  later  age. 

In 


(l)  There  is  an  engraved  representation  of  these  Caves  in  Montfaucon's  Antiquitc 
Erpliquee,  taken  from  the  Travels  of  M.  de  Monceaux ;  but  the  niches  are  inaccurately 
delineated,  and  they  are  filled  with  imaginary  urns. 


ISTHMUS  OF  CORINTH. 


745 


In  the  second  century  the  inhabitants  of  Corinth  chap.xviii. 
consisted  entirely  of  the  remains  of  that  colony  which  had 
been  sent  thither  by  the  Romans2.  The  original  race,  with 
all  their  customs  and  habits,  had  long  been  removed.  In 
general  we  found  three  niches,  placed  in  a  row,  in  every 
cave;  but  in  some  instances  the  caves  were  double;  and 
within  each  of  the  chambers  there  appeared  a  double  row 
of  recesses  of  different  forms,  probably  adapted,  in  every 
instance,  to  the  shape  of  the  vessel  intended  to  contain  the 
ashes  of  a  deceased  person;  many  of  them  being  little  arched 
recesses,  and  others  oblong  rectangular  cavities  suited  to 
the  shape  of  those  cinerary  receptacles  which  have  been 
occasionally  found,  made  of  marble  or  terra-cotta,  modelled 
after  the  form  of  a  Grecian  sarcophagus,  and  of  a  diminutive 
size.  Several  of  these  caves  remain  yet  unopened;  and 
some  are  entirely  concealed,  the  entrances  being  either  buried 
beneath  large  stones,  or  covered  by  soil  and  vegetation. 

We  spent  the  rest  of  this  day  in  the  examination  of  the 
Isthmus,  but  observed  nothing  which  could  be  considered 
as  the  slightest  indication  of  the  place  where  the  Games 
were  celebrated.  Chandler  had  evidently  laid  down  the 
spot  from  an  erroneous  conjecture3,  founded  upon  the 
observations  of  Wheler:  and  as  he  positively  asserts4  that 

neither 


(2)  Kopivdov    St    oIkovgi    K.opivQiuv    fJ.lv    ovcetc    tri    ruv  dftyaio)v,    ^ttoikol    hi 
dvoirraXiyrec  vtto  'Pw/xaiuv.     Pausan.  Corinthiaca,  c.  1.  p.  111.     ed.  Kuhnii. 

(3)  See  the  '*  Chart  of  the  Isthmus  of  Corinth'"  facing  p.  234  of  Chandler's  Trav. 
in  Greece.     Oxf.  1/76. 

(4)  See  Trav.  in  Greece,  p.  243.     Oxf.  1/76. 

VOL.  III.  5  C 


lyyitfWteii  cr-S*/?7^/»         lTVrfuff  PisiK-jSit,^^'/-! 


ReniarkaLle 
Tumulus. 


745'  PELOPONNESUS. 

chap.xviii.    neither  the  Theatre  nor  the  Stadium  were  visible,  it  is  plain 

he  never  visited  the  part  of  the  Isthmus  to  which  Wheler 

has  alluded1.     We  determined  therefore  to  renew  our  search 

upon   the  morrow,  and  returned  to  Corinth  to  enjoy  the 

prospect  from  the  Acrocorinthus  at  the  setting  of  the  sun. 

From  the  place  where  the  work  of  cutting  the  Canal  was 

abandoned,  going  towards  Corinth,  the  ground  rises  the  whole 

way  to  the  old  Vallum ;  and  there  are  tombs  all  up  the  slope, 

in  the   direction  of  the  Acrocorinthus.     Before  arriving  at 

the  wall  in  this  direction,  there  is  a  lofty  and  very  entire 

Tumulus,  which  is  covered  with  a  whitish  earth  and  with 

stones.     This,    owing    to  its    magnitude   and    situation,    it 

would  be  very  desirable  to  open.     According  to  Pausanias, 

the  sepulchre  of  Sisyphus  was  in  the  Isthmus,  although  his 

tomb    could  not   be  pointed  out12.      We    crossed  the  wall 

again,  and  observed  in  the   more  antient  parts   of  it   some 

stones  of  immense  size  ;  but  where  the  masonry  was  more 

modern    the  parts   were   of  less    magnitude.     We   visited 

several    antient    stone    quarries    which    were    very   large: 

all  the  hills  to  the  left  were   covered  with   these   quarries  : 

they  extend  principally  in  a  straight  line,  east  and  west. 

The  stupendous  rock  of  the  Acrocorinthus,  from  what- 
ever part  of  the  Isthmus  it  is  viewed,  appears  equally 
conspicuous ;  opposing  so  bold  a  precipice,  and  such 
a  commanding  eminence  high  above  every  approach  to  the 

Peninsula, 


4crocorinthus. 


(1)  See  Wheler's  "  Journey  into  Greece"  Bookvi.  p.  437-     Lond.  1682. 

(2)  Vid.  Pausan.  in  Corinthiac.  c.  2.  p.  114.    ed.  Kuhnii.     See  the  Vignette  for  the 
situation  of  this  tomb. 


ACROCORINTHUS. 


747 


Peninsula,  that  if  properly  fortified  it  would  render  all  access    chap.xviii. 

to  the  Morea,  by  land,  impracticable ;  and  as  a  fortress,  it 

might  be  rendered   not  less  secure  than  that  of  Gibraltar. 

It  was  therefore  very  aptly  named  by  an  antient  oracle — 

and  in  times  when  the  art  of  war  was  incapable  of  giving  to 

it  the  importance  it  might  now  possess — one  of  the  horns 

which  a  conqueror  ought  to  lay  hold  on,  in  order  to  secure 

that  valuable  heifer  the  Peloponnesus. 

When  we  returned  to  Corinth,  we  found  that  the 
Governor,  who  began  to  be  uneasy  at  our  scrutinizing 
observations,  and  considered  us  as  nothing  better  than  spies, 
would  not  grant  to  us  permission  for  entering  within  the 
Citadel :  all  that  we  could  obtain  was,  the  privilege  of 
ascending  to  the  summit  of  the  rock,  as  far  as  the  outside  of 
the  gates  of  the  fortress3.  The  whole  of  this  ascent  in  the  time    Ascent  t0  tlK 

to  Citadel. 

of  Pausanias  was  distinguished  by  Hiera  stationed  at  certain  Htera. 
intervals4,  after  the  manner  in  which  little  shrines  and  sanc- 
tuaries now  appear  by  the  way  side,  in  climbing  the  passes 
and  heights  of  mountains  in  Catholic  countries.  A  person 
unacquainted  with  the  nature  of  such  an  ascent,  reading 
his  catalogue  of  the  different  objects  as  they  occurred,  might 

suppose 


(3)  Lusieri  afterwards  obtained  access  to  the  interior,  through  the  interest  of  the 
British  Minister  at  the  Porte ;  but  he  was  narrowly  watched  the  whole  time  :  and 
during  the  short  stay  he  made,  under  the  pretence  of  directing  any  improvement  that 
might  be  necessary  in  the  fortifications,  he  observed  no  remains  of  antiquity,  excepting 
the  shaft  of  a  small  pillar,  which  perhaps  might  have  belonged  to  the  Temple  of  Venus. 

(4)  Vid.  Pausan.  in  Corinthiac.  c.  4.  p.  121.     ed.  Kuhnii.    'Aviovat    Si    eis  rdv 

KlCpOKOplvQoV,   K.T.X. 


&he       ^m 


•w-^i- 


l.^,-^tisj( 


jaq  PELOPONNESUS. 

chap.xviii.  suppose  they  were  so  many  temples,  instead  of  niches,  shrines', 
and  votive  receptacles.  In  the  different  contests  which 
Neptune  is  said  to  have  had  for  the  Grecian  territories,  one 
wTas  also  assigned  to  him  for  the  Isthmus  and  Acropolis  of 
Corinth :  and  as  the  watery  god  disputed  with  Juno  and 
with  Minerva  for  the  possession  of  the  Argive  and  of  the 
Athenian  plains,  so,  in  his  struggle  to  maintain  the  sovereignty 
of  the  Corinthian  region,  he  is  fabled  to  have  retained 
possession  of  the  Isthmus,  when  the  lofty  rock  of  the  Citadel 
was  adjudged  to  the  Sun  ;  a  fable  founded  on  no  very  dark 
tradition  respecting  the  existence  of  this  mountain  above  the 
waters  of  the  sea,  long  before  they  had  entirely  abandoned 
the  plain  of  the  Isthmus.  That  the  Peloponnesus  had  been 
once  an  island,  was  not  only  an  opinion  of  the  Antients 
concerning  it,  but  a  memorial  of  the  fact  is  preserved  in  the 
name  it  always  retained'  of  "  the  Island  of  P 'clops ."  The 
antiquities,  as  they  were  noticed  by  Pausanias1,  in  the  ascent 
of  the  Acrocorinthus,  are  as  follow  :  two  shrines  of  his ; 
two  of  Sarapis  ;  the  altars  of  the  Sun  ;  and  a  Hieron  called 
that  of  Necessity  and  Violence,  wherein  it  was  not  lawful  to 
enter.  It  is  difficult  to  understand  what  was  meant  by  this 
last ;  unless  it  were  a  place  of  refuge,  like  to  some  of  the 
sanctuaries  in  Italy,  into  which  it  is  unlawful  to  follow  any 
fugitive    offender   who    has    there   sheltered   himself  from 

pursuit. 


(1)  ITEAOnOS  NH202.  (Vid.  Strabon.  Geog.  lib.  vi..  p.  465.  Oxon.  1807.). 
ric'XoTroc  plv  Ik  t>~).:  tywyfac  brayofiivou  Xaov  ik  rrp>  oV  avrov  KXrfieiaiu: 
flEAOriONNHSON,  k.t.X. 

(2)  Vid.  Pausan.  in  Corinthiac.  cap.  4.  p.  121.     ed.  Kuhnii. 


■iimiiiilhirt 


ACROCORINTHUS. 


749 


pursuit.      Above   this  was  a  Temple   (vuog)   of  the  Mother  of  chap.xviii. 

the  Gods,  a  Stele,  and  a   Seat    (0g6vo$)    of  stone.       There 

seem   also   to  have  been  fanes  consecrated   to  the  Parcce, 

containing  images  which   were  not   exposed  to  view  ;   and 

near  to  the  same  spot,  a  Hieron  of  Juno  Buncea.     Upon  the 

summit  itself  stood  another  Temple  (mog)  of  Venus.     In  all 

this  list,  there  is  mention  made  of  two  structures  only  which 

can  properly  be   considered  as  temples ;   that  is  to  say,  the 

Temple  of  Venus  upon  the  summit  of  the  rock ;  and  that  of 

the  Mother  of  the  Gods  at   some   resting-place  where  there 

was  a  seat,  perhaps  about  half  way  up.     Fragments  of  the 

former  will  probably  be  discovered  by  future  travellers  who 

have  liberty  to  inspect   the  materials  used  in  constructing 

the    foundations  and  walls    of  the  citadel.      All    that    we 

observed,  in  going  up,  were  the  remains  of  an  antient  paved 

way  near  the  gate  of  the  fortress,  and  the  capital  of  an  Ionic 

pillar  lying;  near  the  same  place.     We  reached   this  gate    Prospect  from 

r  J       °  x  °  the  summit 

just  before  sun-set ;  and  had,  as  is  always  usual  from  the  tops 
of  any  of  <the  Grecian  mountains,  a  more  glorious  prospect 
tharr  can  be  seen  in  any  other  part  of  Europe.  Wheler  calls 
it  "the  most  agreeable  prospect  this  world  can  giveV 
And  as  from  the  Parthenon  at  Athens  we  had  seen  the. 
Citadel  of  Corinth,  so  now  we  had  a  commanding  view, 
across  the  Sinus  Saronicus,  of  Salamis  and  of  the  Athenian 
Acropolis.  Looking  down  upon  the  Isthmus,  the  shadow  of 
the  Acrocorinthus,  of  a  conical  shape,  extended  exactly  half 

across 


of  the  Acro- 
corinthus. 


(3)  See  "Journey  into  Greece,"  Bookvi.  p.  422.     Lond.  1682, 


m 


■JPjp.W 


S'.vflr 


750  PELOPONNESUS. 

chap.xvih.  across  its  length,  the  point  of  the  cone  being  central 
between  the  tivo  seas.  Towards  the  north  we  saw 
Parnassus  covered  with  snow,  and  Helicon,  and  Cithceron. 
Nearer  to  the  eye  appeared  the  mountain  Gerania,  between 
Megara  and  Corinth.  But  the  prospect  which  we  surveyed 
was  by  no  means  so  extensive  as  that  seen  by  Whcler ; 
because  we  were  denied  admission  to  the  fortress,  which 
concealed  a  part  of  the  view  towards  our  right.  We  noted 
however  the  following  bearings  by  the  compass  from  an 
eminence  near  the  gate  : 

North Point  of  Olmice  Promontory. 

North  and  by  East Helicon. 

North-East  and  by  North  .  .  Summit  of  Gerania. 

East  North  East The  Isthmus  of  Corinth  lying  e.n.e. 

and  w.  s.w.    And  beyond  it,  in  the  same  direction,  the  summit 

of  Cithceron. 
East Port  Schoenus;  and  beyond  it,  exact! v 

in    the    same    direction,   Athens. 

North  and  by  West Parnassus.  % 

North- West  and  by  North  .  .  Sicyonian  Promontory. 

On  Saturday  November  the  fourteenth  we  again  mounted 

HexamiiHa.       our  horses,  and  set  out  for  a  village  still  bearing  the  name  of 

Hexamillia.  being  situated  where  the  Isthmus  is  six  miles  over. 

Discovery  of  ° 

the  Town  of      an(j  wnere  the  antient  town  of  the  same  name  formerly  stood. 

Isthmus.         ,  J 

We  had  been  told  that  we  should  be  able  to  purchase 
medals  here  of  the  Albanians  ;  accordingly  we  provided 
ourselves  with  a  quantity  of  newly-coined  parahs,  to  barter 
in  exchange  for  them.  When  we  arrived,  the  number  of 
medals  brought  to  us,  and  their  variety,  were  so  great,  that 

we 


ISTHMUS   OF  CORINTH. 


751 


we  demanded  of  the  peasants,  where  they  had  found  them  chap.xviii. 
in  such  abundance  ?  One  of  the  inhabitants,  who  spoke  the 
modern  Greek,  said  they  all  came  from  a  Palceo- Castro  to 
which  they  often  drove  their  flocks ;  described  by  them  as 
being  situated  near  a  small  port  at  the  extremity  of  the  Port SchcenHs. 
Isthmus  upon  the  side  of  the  Gulph  of  Engia,  towards 
Mevara.  This  could  be  no  other  than  the  Port  Schoenus; 
and  the  mere  mention  of  this  important  appellation,  Palceo- 
Castro,  filled  us  with  the  most  sanguine  expectations  that  we 
should  here  find,  what  we  had  sought  with  so  much 
earnestness,  the  site  of  the  Isthmian  solemnities.  Such  a 
variety  of  coins  belonging  to  different  and  to  distant  States  of 
Greece,  all  collected  upon  one  spot,  could  only  be  accounted 
for  by  a  reference  to  the  concourse  so  often  assembled,  in 
consequence  of  the  Sacred  Games,  from  all  parts  of  Hellas 
and  of  Peloponnesus.  We  therefore  took  one  of  the  peasants 
as  our  guide  to  the  P alceo- Castro ;  and  leaving  the  others 
to  collect  other  medals  from  the  different  cottages, 
promised  to  return  in  the  evening,  and  to  purchase  all 
they  might  be  able  to  procure.  Antient  stone  quarries 
are  numerous  in  the  hills  above  Hexamillia.  Beyond 
this  village,  towards  Mount  Oneius,  which  rises  to  the 
north  of  Schoenus  Port,  we  thought  we  observed  the 
form  of  an  antient  Theatre,  of  which  nothing  but  the  Cotton 
exists  ;  neither  a  seat  nor  a  stone  remaining.  We  then  rode 
directly  towards  the  port  and  the  mountain  ;  and,  crossing 
an  artificial  causeway  over  a  fosse,  we  arrived  in  the  midst 
of  the  Ruins.  A  speedy  and  general  survey  of  the  antiquities 
here  soon  decided  their  history  ;  for  it  was  evident  that  we 

had 


S-Vr.-iairt?         ^M 


nw$l 


752  PELOPONNESUS. 

chap.xviii.  had  at  last  discovered  the  real  site  of  the  Isthmian  Town, 
together  with  the  Ruins  of  the  Temple  of  Neptune,  of  the 
Stadium,  and  of  the  Theatre1.  The  earth  was  covered  with 
fragments  of  various-coloured  marble,  grey  granite,  white 
limestone,  broken  pottery,  disjointed  shafts,  capitals,  and 
cornices.  We  observed  part  of  the  fluted  shaft  of  a  Doric 
column,  which  was  five  feet  in  diameter.  A  more  particular 
examination  was  now  necessary;  and  we  proceeded  imme- 
diately to  trace  the  different  parts  of  this  scene  of  desolation, 
and  to  measure  them  in  detail. 

We  began  first  to  mark,   with   as   much   precision    as 
possible,  the  site  of  these  Ruins,  with  reference  to   other 
objects,    that  future  travellers    (in   direct  contradiction   to 
the   statement   made  by  Chandler)   may  be  guided  to  the 
spot,   and    become    satisfied   of  their  existence.     The  best 
method  of  finding  their   precise   situation    is  to  attend  to 
the  course  of  the  wall  which  traverses  the  Isthmus;    for 
this,    if  it   be    traced   from    the  Corinthian  Gulph,    will  be 
found  to  make  a  sudden  turn   before  it  reaches  the  shore 
of  the   Sinus  Saronicus,  and  to  bear  away  towards  Mount 
Oneius,  embracing  the  whole  of  the  Port  of  Schoenus,   and 
closing  it  in  upon  the  Corinthian  side.     The  ruins  of  the 
Temple,  Stadium,    Theatre,   together   with  ivclls,  and  other 
indications  of  the  Isthmian  Town,  surround  this  port ;  and 
they  are,  for  the  most  part,  situated  upon  its  sides,  sloping 
TNw?une°l        towards  tne  sea.     The  remains  of  the  Temple  of  Neptune 

are 


(1)  Vid.  Pausan.  in  Corinth,  cap.  l  &  2.  pp.  ill,  i  12,  113,  114.  ed.  Kuhnii. 


ISTHMUS  OF  CORINTH. 

are  to  the  west  of  the  Isthmian  Wall ;  upon  an  area  which 
is  two  hundred  and  seventy-six  paces  in  length,  and  sixty- 
four  in  breadth.  A  Greek  Chapel,  also  in  a  ruined  state, 
now  stands  upon  the  area  of  the  temple;  and  this  seems  to 
have  been  the  identical  building  mentioned  by  Wheler,  near 
to  which  he  found  the  Inscription  published  by  him,  relative 
to  many  edifices,  not  mentioned  by  Pausanias,  that  were 
repaired  by  Publius  Licinius  Priscus  Juventianw*.  Indeed 
it  is  wonderful,  considering  the  notice  given  by  him  of  the 
Ruins  here,  that  the  site  of  them  should  afterwards  be  lost. 
The  materials  of  the  temple  are  of  a  white  limestone3-,  and 
the  workmanship  of  the  capitals,  the  fluting  of  the  columns, 
and  of  other  ornamental  parts  of  the  structure,  are  extremely 
beautiful.  ■  Not  a  single  pillar  remains  erect :  the  columns 
with  their  entablatures  have  all  fallen.  The  building,  by  its 
ruins,  appears  to  have  been  of  the  Corinthian  order ;  but  there 
are  remains  of  other  edifices  in  its  neighbourhood  where  the 
Doric  order  may  be  observed,  and  where  the  columns  are  of 
greater  magnitude  than  at  this  temple.  We  measured  some 
of  the  shafts  of  columns  here  that  were  only  two  feet  nine 
inches  in  diameter :  and  this  agrees  with  a  remark  made  by 
Pausanias,  who  states  that  the  dimensions  of  the  Temple 
were    not  extraordinary4.     The  capitals  are  for  the  most 

part 


753 


CHAP.XVIII. 


(2)  "  Journey  into  Greece,"  Book  vi.  p.  438.     Lond.  1082. 

(3)  Called  by  Pausanias  Xidoc  Xevnos   (vid.  p.  112.  Corinthiac.  c.  1.  ed.  Kuhnii.)  j 
but  this  is  an  expression  often  applied  by  him  where  marble  has  been  used. 

(4)  Tw  yap  Se  ovti  fxiytdos  ov  fxu^ovi,  k.  t.  \.  Corinthiac.  c.  1.  p.  1 12.  ed.  Kuhnii, 

VOL.  III.  5  D 


■ 


754 


PELOPONNESUS. 


CHAP.XV111.  part  destitute  of  the  rich  foliage  of  the  acanthus,  although 
finished  with  exquisite  taste  and  in  the  most  masterly  style 
of  sculpture.  Among  seven  or  eight  of  these  capitals,  we 
found  only  one  with  the  acanthus  ornament:  yet  the  edges 
of  the  canelurc  upon  all  the  shafts  of  the  columns  at  this 
temple  were  flattened,  and  not  sharp  as  in  much  larger 
pillars  which  we  observed  higher  up  towards  the  wall.  We 
found  also  a  pedestal,  which  measured  at  its  base  four  feet 
and  four  inches.  The  fallen  architraves  and  other  parts  of 
the  entablature  also  remain.  To  the  south  wall  of  the  area 
of  the  Temple  adjoined"  the  Theatre ;  the  Coilon  of  which, 
almost  filled  and  overwhelmed  by  the  ruins  of  the  Temple 
and  by  the  effect  of  earthquakes,  yet  remains,  facing  the 
Port  Schoenus.  West  of  the  Theatre  is  the  Stadium1,  at 
right  angles  to  the  Isthmian  Wall :  it  has  very  high  sides ; 
and  even  in  its  present  state,  the  stone  front- work  and  some 
of  the  benches  remain  at  its  upper  end,  although  earthquakes 
or  torrents  have  forced  channels  into  the  arena.  It  extends 
east  and  west,  parallel  to  one  side  of  the  area  of  the  Temple, 
to  which  it  wTas  adjoined.  Just  at  the  place  where  the 
Isthmian  Wall  joins  Mount  Oneius,  is  a  Tumulus,  perhaps  that 
which  was  supposed  to  contain  the  body  of  Melicertes  ; 
in  honour  of  whose  burial  the  Isthmian  Games  were  instituted, 
above  thirteen  hundred  years  before  the  Christian  asra.  It 
stands    on   a  very  conspicuous   eminence    above   the  wall, 

which 


Theatre. 


Stadium. 


Sepulchre  of 
Palccmon. 


(1)  0£'u<    li   av-6di    riV   fori   fiiv   0EATPON,   fori    «    ITAAION    XWou 
Xtvicov.    Pausan.  in  Corinth,  c.  1.  p.  112.     ed.  Kuhnii. 


ISTHMUS  OF   CORINTH. 

which  here  passes  towards  the  south-south-east,  quite  to 
the  port,  after  reaching  the  mount.  There  was  within  the 
sacred  Per/bolus,  according  to  Fausanias*,  a  temple  dedicated 
to  Meliceries,  under  his  posthumous  name  of  Palawion3 ;  and 
it  contained  statues  of  the  boy  and  of  his  mother  Leucothea, 
and  of  Neptune.  The  situation  therefore  of  the  Tomb,  being 
almost  contiguous  with  the  Peribolus,  is  very  remarkable ; 
the  whole  of  these  magnificent  structures,  the  Temples,  the 
Theatre,  the  Stadium,  and  the  Isthmia  themselves,  having 
originated  in  the  honours  paid  to  his  sepulchre.  Going  from 
the  Stadium  towards  this  wall,  we  found  fragments  of  Doric 
columns,  whose  shafts  were  near  six  feet  in  diameter ;  the 
edges  of  the  canelure  being  sharp  :  these  were  of  the  same 
white  limestone  as  the  rest.  But  among  all  the  remains 
here,  perhaps  the  most  remarkable,  as  corresponding  with 
the  indications  left  us  by  Pausanias  of  the  spot,  is  the 
living  family  of  those  Pine- trees,  sacred  to  Neptune,  wrhich 
he  says  grew  in  a  right  line,  upon  one  side,  in  the  approach 
to  the  Temple ;  the  statues  of  victors  in  the  Games-  being 
upon  the  other  side4.  Many  of  these,  self  sown,  are  seen 
on  the  outside  of  the  wall,  upon  the  slope  of  the  land  facing 

the 


755 


CHAP.XVIII. 


Trees  from 
which  Vic- 
tors in  the 
Isthmia  were 
crowned. 


{2)  Vid.  Pausan.  in  Corinthiac.  c.  2.  p.  113.    ed.  Kuhnu. 

(3)  'E&vf^&fjTfH  cc  it  tov  Kopivdiuv  'ladfxoy  viro  l£k(biivo<:  («c  Xcytrai)  rov 
Tratcoc,  Tiftial  Kftl  dXXctt  -w  MEAIKEPTHI  ctcovrat  /jurovofiatrdcvTi  TlAAAIMONI, 
k-cu  T.QN  TSQMIHN  En'  ATTHI  TON  AmNA  ArOTSI.  Pausan.  Attica,  c.  44. 
p.  10S.     ed.  Kuhnu. 

(4)  'E\0oVrt  rt  h  rov  deov  to  updv,  rovro  f.uv  ddXtfruy  viK^advrioy  rd  lird/Ka 
iffTiJKCtaiv  ttKovic,  tovto  cc  niTTflN  AENAPA  isrt  7re(j)vrei>f.iiya  Irrl  otoi^ov  rd 
77-oMo  k  svdv  avruv  dvTJKOvra.     Pausan.  Corinth,  c.  1.  p.  112.     ed.  Kuhnii. 


p$sw:^&€£: 


■H  wmptipx  t*w* 


756 


CHAP.XVJII. 


PELOPONNESUS. 

the  port1.  They  may  also  be  observed  farther  along  the 
coast ;  which  exactly  agrees  with  a  remark  made  by  the 
same  author,  who  relates,  that  in  the  beginning  of  the 
Isthmus  there  were  Pine-trees,  to  which  the  robber  Binis 
used  to  bind  his  captives2.  Every  thing  conspires  to  render 
their  appearance  here  particularly  interesting  :  the  victors 
in  the  Isthmia  were  originally  crowned  with  garlands  made 
of  their  leaves,  although  chaplets  of  parsley  were  afterwards 
used  instead  of  them3:  they  are  particularly  alluded  to  by 
Pausanias,  as  one  of  the  characteristic  features  of  the 
country  :  and  that  they  were  regarded  with  a  superstitious 
veneration  to  a  late  age,  appears  from  the  circumstance  of 
their  being  represented  upon  the  Greek  colonial  medals, 
struck  in  honour  of  the  Roman  Emperors.  Allusion  was 
made  in  the  last  Chapter  to  a  bronze  medal  found  at 
Sicyon,  whereon  one  of  these  trees  is  represented  with  the 
boy  MeUcertes  upon  a  dolphin. 

The  vicinity  of  these  Ruins  to  the  sea  has  very,  much 
facilitated  the  removal  of  many  valuable  antiquities,  as 
materials  for  building  ;  the  inhabitants  of  all  the  neighbouring- 
shores  having  long  been  accustomed  to  resort  hither,  as  to  a 

quarry  : 

(1)  This  Pine  is  a  variety  of  the  Pinus  syluestris,  commonly  called  Pinits  maritima. 
Wheler  called  these  trees  "  Sea  Pines  with  small  cones."  See  Journey  into  Greece, 
p.  446.     Lond.  l682. 

(2)  Vid.  Pausan.  in  Corinth,  c.  I.  p.  111.    ed.  Kulnili. 

(3)  Archbishop  Potter  observes,  that  "  the  use  of  parsley  was  afterwards  left  off,  and 
the  Pine-tree  came  again  into  request;  which  alterations  Plutarch  has  accounted  for  in 
the  fifth  book  of  his  Symposiacks,"  (Quaest.  3.)  Archceologia,  vol,  J.  c.  25.  p.  457. 
Lond.  1751. 


ISTHMUS   OF   CORINTH. 

quarry :  but  no  excavations  have  hitherto  taken  place. 
Persons  have  been  recently  sent  from  England  to  carry  on 
researches,  by  digging  upon  the  site  of  the  antient  cities  and 
temples  of  Greece,  and  it  may  therefore  be  hoped  that  this 
spot  will  not  remain  long  neglected.  There  is  no  part  of 
the  country  which  more  especially  requires  this  kind  of 
examination.  The  concourse  to  the  Isthmia  was  of  such 
a  nature,  and  continued  for  so  many  ages,  that  if  there  be 
a  place  in  all  Greece  likely  to  repay  the  labour  and  the 
expense  necessary  'for  such  an  undertaking,  it  is  the  spot 
where  these  splendid  solemnities  were  held.  Indeed  this 
has  been  already  proved,  in  the  quantity  of  medals  found 
continually  by  the  peasants  of  Hexamillia  among  the  Ruins 
here :  and  the  curious  Inscription  which  Wheler  discovered 
lying  upon  the  area  of  the  temple4  affords  reasonable  ground 
for  believing,  that  many  other  documents,  of  the  same  nature, 
might  be  brought  to  light  with  very  little  difficulty. 

In  returning  from  the  site  of  these  antiquities  to  Hexa- 
millia,  we  observed  several  tombs  by  the  side  of  the  old 
road  which  led  from  Corinth  to  the  town  of  Isthmus,  exactly 
similar  to  the  mounds  we  had  seen  in  Kuban  Tartary.  This 
primeval  mode  of  burial,  originally  introduced  into  Greece 
by  the  Titan-Celts,  continued  in  use  among  the  Corinthians ; 
for  Pausanias,  speaking  of  the  antient  inhabitants,  says,  that 
they  interred  their  dead  always  beneath  a  heap  of  earth. 

As 


757 


CHAP.  XVI II. 


(4)   See  Wheler's  "  Journey  into  Greece,"   Book  vi.  p.  438. 

0EOI2  *  11ATPIOIZ  •  KA1  •  THI  •  nATPIAI-  k.  r.  X. 


■  ^^  £■•<,■: 


Pstf^^tM^  SVBfcyti  <»;.<"'«"  *  V;V  i*1' 


758 


PELOPONNESUS. 


CHAP.XVIII. 


As  soon  as  we  arrived  at  HexamUlia,  the  inhabitants  of 

both  sexes,  and  of  all  ages,  tempted  by  the  sight  which  they 

had  already  gained  of  the  new  parahs,  flocked  around  us, 

bringing  carpets  for  us  to  sit  upon  in  the  open  air :  and  a 

Extraordinary    very  curious  market  was  opened  for  the  sale  of  a  single 

Mart  for  Gre- 
cian Medals,       commodity;   namely,   the  antient  medals  found  at   different 

times  among  the  Ruins  we  had  visited.  The  young  women 
wore  several  silver  medals  mixed  with  base  coin  as  orna- 
ments, in  a  kind  of  cap  upon  their  foreheads,  and  among 
their  hair.  These  they  were  not  very  willing  to  dispose  of; 
but  the  temptation  offered  by  the  shining  parahs  was  not  to 
be  resisted,  and  we  bought  almost  all  we  saw.  The  bronze 
coins  were  in  great  number  :  but  we  obtained  many  very 
curious  medals  in  silver ;  and  among  these,  the  most  antient 
of  the  city  of  Corinth,  in  rude  globular  forms  exhibiting  the 
head  of  Pallas  in  front,  within  a  square  indented  cavity  ;  and 
upon  their  obverse  sides,  those  antique  figures  of  Pegasus,  in 
which  the  wings  of  the  horse  are  inflected  towards  the 
mane.  The  medals  with  this  die  have  been  sometimes 
confounded  with  those  of  Sicily ;  but  we  obtained  one 
whereon  appeared,  in  Roman  characters,  the  letters  cor. 
One  of  the  most  curious  things  which  we  noticed  among 
our  acquisitions,  was  an  antient  forgery  ;  a  base  coin  of 
Corinth,  made  of  brass,  and  silvered  over.  The  others 
consisted  of  silver  and  bronze  medals,  of  Alexander  the 
Great ;  of  Phocis ;  of  Tanagra  in  Bceotia ;  of  Megara  ; 
of  Alea  in  Arcadia;  Argos ;  Sicyon ;  JEgina;  and  Chalcis ; 
together  with  a  few  Roman  coins,  and  some  of  less  note. 
We  were  surprised    by    not   finding   among    them  any  of 

Athens ; 


CORINTH. 


759 


Athens',    which   are   common  enough   elsewhere.      When    chap.xvhi, 

we  had  concluded  our  business  in  Hexamillia,  we  returned 

again  to  Corinth ;  and  saw,    in  our  road,    the  remains  of 

some  buildings,  evidently  Roman,  from  the  appearance  of 

the  opus  reticulatum  in  the  masonry  :   among  these  was  the 

Ruin  of  a  large  structure,    which  seemed  to  have  been  an 

aqueduct. 

It  was  late  when  we  reached  our  quarters.     Two  of  the 
Levant  Consuls  sate  with  us  during  the  evening.    Their  uni-     Dress  of  the, 

iii*  r    T-i  Levant 

form  combines,  in  a  singular  manner,  the  habits  of  Eastern    consuls. 
and   Western   nations :    it  is  a  long  dress,  with   a  three- 
cornered  hat,  a  bag  wig,  and  an  anchor  on  the  button  of 
the  hat. 

On  Sunday,  November  the  fifteenth,  there  was  a  fair  in 
Corinth.    We  saw  nothing  worth  notice,  except  an  Arcadian    Pawiapan 

°  *  Horn. 

pipe,  upon  which  a  shepherd  was  playing  in  the  streets. 
It  was  perfectly  Pandcean;  consisting  simply  of  a  goat's 
horn,  with  five  holes  for  the  fingers,  and  a  small  aperture 
at  the  end  for  the  mouth.  It  is  exceedingly  difficult  to  pro- 
duce any  sound  whatever  from  this  small  instrument ;  but 
the  shepherd  made  the  air  resound  with  its  shrill  notes  :  and 
we  bought  his  pipe.  This  day  we  left  Corinth  entirely. 
The  Bey  positively  refused  to  allow  us  to  proceed  by  land 
to  Megara  ;  we  therefore  engaged  with  a  couple  of  men 
who  had  a  boat  stationed  in  the  harbour  of  Cenchrece,  to 
take  us  along  the  coast.  In  our  way  to  that  harbour,  we 
again  visited  the  village  of  Hexamillia  ;  and,  after  passing  the 
same,  we  perceived  that  the  Stone  Quarries,  the  remains  of 
the  Isthmian  Wall,  and  of  the  Town  of  Isthmus  at  its  eastern 

extremity, 


s*¥!  W*f>*t 


^^m 


3^  \ytr^         ^^m  ,-v^ 


v»-W,  -!»■-»¥•'  ■ 


760 


PELOPONNESUS. 


cHAP.xviif.  extremity,  are  seen  forming  a  high  ridge  upon  the  left  hand, 
parallel  to  the  mountains  upon  the  right.     The  Remains  at 

Cenchrem.         Cenchre^b  faithfully  correspond  with  the  description  given 

Bath  of  Helen,  by  Pausanias  of  the  place  '.  We  visited  the  Bath  of  Helen  : 
it  is  formed  by  a  spring,  which  here  boils  up  with  force 
enough  to  turn  a  mill,  close  to  the  sea.  We  found  no  dif- 
ference of  temperature,  whether  the  thermometer  were 
placed  in  the  water  of  this  spring,  or  in  the  sea,  or  exposed 
in  the  shade  to  the  air  of  the  atmosphere  at  mid-day. 
The  three  trials  gave  exactly  the  same  result ; — 64°  of 
Fahrenheit.  The  men  we  had  hired  did  not  return  from  the 
fair ;  so,  after  waiting  for  some  time,  we  procured  another 
boat,  and  went  to  a  village,  the  name  of  which   was  pro- 

convangee.  nounced  Convangee  ",  where  we  passed  the  night.  The  next 
morning,  at  sun-rise,  we  embarked  again.  The  wind  proved 
contrary.  We  landed,  and  reached  a  miserable  hamlet, 
consisting  only  of  six  houses,    called  Carneta  or  Canetto, 

Cromyon.  upon  the  site  of  the  antient  Cromyon.     Its  wretched  inha- 

bitants, a  set  of  sickly-looking  people,  in  the  midst  of  very 
bad  air,  had  never  seen  a  glove,  and  expressed  the  utmost 
astonishment  at  seeing  a  person  take  one  off  his  hand. 
Notwithstanding  the  insalubrity  of  the  situation,  and  the 
unhealthy  looks  of  the  people,  there  was  no  appearance  of 

poverty 


(1)  Vid.  Pausan.  in  Corinth,   c.  2.  p.  114.    ed.Kuhn. — The  place  is  now  called  by 
its  antient  name,  pronounced  Cenchri. 

(2)  This,  in  all  probability,   is  very  remote  from  the  manner  in  which  this  word 
ought  to  be  written.    If  it  be  a  Greek  name,  the  Fis  always  j3. 


Manners  of 
the  Peasants. 


ISTHMUS  OF  CORINTH.  ^(J| 

poverty  or  misery  within  their  cottages.  The  houses,  like  chap.xvhi. 
those  of  the  Albanians  in  general,  were  very  neat,  although 
the  cattle  lodged  with  their  owmers  beneath  the  same  roof. 
The  resemblance  which  the  Albanians  bear  to  the  High- 
landers of  Scotland,  in  their  dress,  habits,  and  mode  of  life, 
is  said  to  be  very  striking  in  a  land  which  is  more  peculiarly 
their  own",  and  where  their  employments  are  less  agricultural 
than  in  the  Morea ;  but  even  here  we  could  not  avoid  being 
struck  with  appearances,  forcibly  calling  to  mind  the  man- 
ners and  customs  we  had  often  witnessed  among  Caledonian 
heaths  and  mountains.  The  floors  were  all  of  earth ;  and 
instead  of  chimnies  there  was  in  every  cottage  a  hole  through 
the  roof;  but  the  walls  were  neatly  white- washed,  and  the 
hard  earthen  floors  were  swept,  and  made  as  clean  as  pos- 
sible. Every  house  had  its  oven,  which  was  kept  remarkably 
clean ;  and  the  whitest  bread  was  set  before  us,  with  the  richest 
and  most  highly-flavoured  honey.  The  fire  being  kindled 
in  the  middle  of  the  floor,  the  peasants  form  a  circle  around 
it,  sitting  or  lying  with  their  feet  towards  the  hearth.  Their 
conversation  is  cheerful  and  animated  ;  and,  as  it  was  inter- 
preted to  us,  it  seemed  to  be  filled  with  as  lively  sallies  of 
wit  against  the  faults  of  their  Governors,  as  it  is  usual  to  hear 

among 


(3)  There  is  an  observation  upon  this  subject  by  Lord  Byron,  in  the  Notes  to  his 
deathless  Poem,  "  Childe  Harold's  Pilgrimage."  "  The  Arnaouts,  or  Allanese, 
struck  me  forcibly  by  their  resemblance  to  the  Highlanders  of  Scotland,  in  dress, 
figure,  and  manner  of  living.  Their  very  mountains  seemed  Caledonian  with  a 
kinder  climate.  The  kilt,  though  white ;  the  spare,  active  form  ;  their  dialect,  Celtic 
in  its  sound  ;  and  their  hardy  habits,  all  carried  me  back  to  Morven  "  Childe  Harold's 
Pilgrimage,  Notes  to  Canto  11.  p.  125.  Lond.  1812. 

VOL.  III.  5  E 


\txm& 


ww1?'-  ffi'if  *??tf*,  JTT^ 


762  PELOPONNESUS. 

chap.xviii.  among  nations  boasting  of  the  freedom  they  enjoy.  We; 
could  not  hear  of  any  antiquities  in  the  neighbourhood;  nor 
did  we  expect  even  a  tradition  of  the  Cromyonian  soiv,  or 
any  other  exploit  of  Theseus  in  the  Straits  of  Peloponnesus, 
among  a  people  who  are  not  the  indigenous  inhabitants  of 
the  country.  A  single  black  terra-cot ta  vessel,  of  small 
size,  and  shaped  like  a  bottle,  found  in  some  sepulchre  near 
the  place,  was  the  only  relique  of  antient  Cromyon  that  we 
were  able  to  procure. 

Monday,  November  the  sixteenth,  the  wind  continuing 
still  contrary,  we  hired  asses,  and  determined  to  proceed  by 
land ;  being  now  safe  from  interruption  on  the  part  of  the 
Governor  of  Corinth,  and  relying  upon  the  Albanians  for 
protection,  who  are  generally  considered  as  the  only  persons 
exercising  the  Scironian  profession  in  these  parts.  At  the 
same  time,  we  sent  the  boat  to  Megara  with  our  baggage. 
In  our  road  we  saw  a  great  number  of  those  pines,  or  pitch- 
trees,  alluded  to  by  authors  with  reference  to  the  history 
of  the  famous  robber  Sinis1;  who,  first  bending  their  stems 
to  the  earth,  fastened  his  prisoners  to  the  branches,  so  that 
when  the  trees,  by  their  elasticity,  sprang  up  again,  the 
bodies  of  his  captives  were  torn  asunder.  We  passed  under 
the  Scironian  rocks  :  their  appearance  is  very  remarkable, 
and  likely  to  give  rise  to  fabulous  tales,  if  they  had  been 
situated  in  any  other  country.  They  consist  of  breccia, 
which  here,  as  in  the  Isthmus  of  Corinth,  and  indeed 
over    all     the     north     of   Peloponnesus,    and    in    Attica,    is 

superjacent 

(1)    "Eort    li    iirl    tov   'ladpov    rr/t    U/C>X>K,    *v^a  °'   ^J/0"7"')5    21NI2   \afipa>dptvQi 
irtTvuvj  yysv  h  to  kcLtu  cr(pu<;.    Pausan.  Corinth,  c.  1.  p.  111.  ed.  Kuhnii. 


Scironian 
Defile. 


Ann.  ALBANIAN   of   (SJREECE. 


J'iiNis/1,,1  .M.irrii.i.iSu.hi'  TihJsli .«•//: Danes ".Strand \Lando 


3mh£  S5B5G65&S3S       6SSS         ESmB  ■BOEjEiMMfi  hmh 


|M_MH|gHajtai|llia| 


SCIRONIAN    ROCKS. 


763 


superjacent  upon  a  stratum  of  limestone.  The  breccia  of  chap.xviu. 
the  Scironian  rocks  presents,  towards  the  sea,  a  steep  and 
slippery  precipice,  sloping  from  the  narrowest  part  of  the 
Isthmian  Strait  towards  the  Si?ws  Saronicus.  It  is  so  highly 
polished,  either  by  the  former  action  of  the  sea  to  which 
it  is  opposed,  or  by  the  rushing  of  torrents  occasionally  over 
its  surface,  that  any  person  falling  from  the  heights  would 
glide  as  over  a  surface  of  glass ;  and  be  dashed  to  pieces 
upon  the  shore,  or,  in  some  parts  of  the  precipice,  fall  into 
the  waves.  The  Story  of  Sappho  has  given  the  name  of  "  The 
Lovers  Leap"  to  at  least  a  dozen  precipices,  in  as  many 
different  parts  of  the  world ;  and  this  is  one  of  the  places 
whence  Ino  is  said  to  have  precipitated  herself,  with  her 
son  Meliccrtes  \  Hence  also  the  old  stories  of  the  dangers 
to  which  travellers  were  exposed  in  the  narrow  pass  above 
the  Scironia  Saxa,  from  the  assaults  of  Sciron,  who,  it 
was  said,  compelled  them  to  wash  his  feet,  and  then  kicked 
them  down  these  precipices  into  the  sea.  Not  only  were 
the  rocks  called  Scironian,  but  the  road  itself  was  named 
Sciron.  It  was  said  to  have  been  enlarged  by  the  Emperor 
Hadrian ;  but  we  found  it  to  be  so  narrow,  after  we  had 
gained  the  heights,  that  there  was  barely  room  for  two 
persons  on  horseback  to  pass  each  other.  A  lofty  mountain 
above  the  pass,  covered  with  snow  during  the  greater  part 
of  the  year,    is  called  Gerao,  the  antient   Gerania3.      We 

had 


(2)  Vid.  Pausan.  in  Attic,  c.  44.  p.  108.    ed.  Kuhnii. 

(3)  Wheler  says  the  modern   name  of  Gerania  is  Palceo-vouni.     See  Journ.  into 
Greece,  p.  436.  Lond.  1682. 


764 


CHAP.XVII1. 


Boundary 
between  Pelo- 
ponnesus and. 
HELLJS. 


KAKH 

2KAAA. 


BOUNDARY  OF  PELOPONNESUS  AND  HELLAS. 

had  seen  it  from  the  pass  of  Tretus,  near  the  Cave  of  the 
Nemecea?i  Lion,  in  our  journey  from  Mycenae  to  Nemea. 
There  is  a  town  near  this  mountain,  called  Calaverti.  We 
soon  came  to  the  antient  Paved  Way  leading  from  Attica  into 
Peloponnesus ;  and  arrived  at  the  Wall  and  arched  Gate,  high 
above  the  sea ;  where,  in  the  narrow  strait,  is  still  marked 
the  antient  boundary  between  the  two  countries.  The 
old  portal,  once  of  so  much  importance,  is  now  a  ruin  ;  but 
part  of  the  stone- work,  mixed  with  tiles,  which  was  above 
an  arch,  yet  remains  on  the  side  of  the  mountain  ;  and 
beyond  it,  on  the  side  of  Attica,  we  saw  more  of  the  old 
paved  road.  The  place  is  now  called  Katche  Scala;  a  modern 
method  of  pronouncing  Kaxrj  2*«Aa,  the  Bad  Way.  The 
defile  was  always  considered  as  full  of  danger  to  the 
traveller;  and  it  maintains  its  pristine  character.  The/Turks 
never  pass  it  without  the  most  lively  apprehensions ; 
expecting  to  be  attacked  here  by  banditti.  Ibrahim,  that  he 
might  avoid  this  pass,  had  preferred  a  tedious  and  turbulent 
passage  in  the  boat  with  our  baggage.  For  our  parts,  we 
reposed  such  confidence  in  our  worthy  Albanians,  that  we 
never  bestowed  a  thought  upon  the  chance  of  meeting 
robbers  ;  and  they  liked  our  society  the  better  because  we 
were  not  accompanied  by  a  Turk.  Close  to  the  Scironian 
Gate  we  observed  a  prodigious  block  of  white  marble, 
lying  out  of  the  road  upon  the  brink  of  the  precipice;  which 
had  been  thrown  down,  and  had  very  nearly  fallen  from  the 
heights  into  the  sea.  There  was  an  Inscription  upon  it, 
perhaps  relating  to  the  widening  of  the  pass,  and  to  the 

repairs 


c . 


MEGA  R  A. 


765 


repairs  of  the  road  by  Hadrian ;  but  we  could  only  trace    chapxvih. 
a  semblance  of  the  following  letters  : 

O  A 
OION  Al  A0I2N  AX1IO 

At  the  place  where  the  Arch  stood  was  perhaps  formerly 
the  Stele1  erected  by  Theseus ;  inscribed  on  one  side, 
"  Here  is  Peloponnesus,  not  Ionia;"  and  upon  the  other, 
"  Here  is  not  Peloponnesus,  but  Ionia."     Having  passed     Entrance  of 

Helios. 

the  spot,  we  now  quitted  the  Morea,  and  once  more 
entered  Hellas1,  by  the  Megarean  land. 

We  began  to  descend  almost  immediately  ;  and,  as  we 
had  expected  from  the  frequent  instances  which  characterize 
the  Grecian  cities,  we  no  sooner  drew  nigh  to  Megara,  than 
the  prospect  of  a  beautiful  and  extensive  plain  opened  before 
us,  walled  on  every  side  by  mountains,  but  in  this  example 
somewhat  elevated  above  the  usual  level  of  such  campaign 
territories.     From  a  view  of  this   important  field,   it  must    causes  of  the 

celebrity  of 

be  evident  that  the  town  of  Megara  owed  its  celebrity  more  Megara. 
to  its  fertile  domain,  than  to  its  position  with  respect  to  the 
sea  ;  yet  it  is  natural  to  suppose  that  the  inhabitants  of  this 
country  were  fishermen  and  pirates,  before  they  turned  their 
attention  towards  the  produce  of  the  soil.  Plutarch  believed, 
that  the  fabled  contest  between  Neptune  and  Minerva,  for 
Attica,  was  an  allusion  to  the  efforts  made  by  the  antient 
kings  of  the  country,  to  withdraw  their  subjects  from  a  sea- 
faring life,  towards  agricultural  employments  2.    Be  this  as  it 

may ; 

(1)  "  Ab  Isthmi  angustiis  Hellas  incipit,  nostris  Grcecia  appellata."    Plin.  Hist.  Nat. 
lib.  iv.  c.  7.  torn.  I.  p.  210.     L.  Bat.  1035. 

(2)  Vid.  Plutarch,  in  Themist.  p.  87.  1.23. 


766' 


CHAP.XVIU. 


The  modern 
Town. 


ATTICA. 

may;   when  both  were  united,   and  it  is  known   that  the 
convenience  of  a  maritime  situation  was  superadded  to  the 
advantages    of  inland  wealth,  we  no   longer   wonder    that 
Megara  was  able  to  make  so  distinguished   a  figure  as  she 
formerly  did,  in  the  common  cause.    At  the  battle  of  Salamis 
she  furnished  twenty  ships  for  the  defence  of  Greece ;  and 
at  Platcea   numbered   her  three  hundred   warriors    in    the 
army  of  Pausanias.    The  city  existed  above  eleven  centuries 
before  the  Christian  aera ;  and,  in  the  days  of  its  splendor, 
it  boasted  its  peculiar  sect  of  Philosophers.     Its  situation 
also  with  respect  to  Peloponnesus  added  to  its  consequence ; 
being  the  depositary  of  all  goods  intended  for  conveyance 
over  the  Scironian  defile.     As   the  traveller  descends    from 
this  pass,  it  appears   upon  a  rock,  which   is   situated  upon 
the  edge    of    an    immense    quadrangular  plain    extending 
towards  the  left  of  the  spectator ;   the  site  of  the  present 
town    being    close  to  that   corner  of  it  which   is  towards 
the  sea,  and  nearest  to  Eleusis.     Upon  our  left,  just  before 
we   arrived,    we    saw    a    large   Tumulus,    on   which    there 
seems   to  have   stood  some  considerable  monument.     The 
place  is  much  altered  even    since   Whelers  time ;   but  the 
inhabitants    retain    many    old  Grecian  customs.      We  saw 
them    roast    a    large    goat    entire,    upon    a    pole,   in  the 
middle  of  the  public  street.     It  is  from  Megara  that  Cicero, 
in  his  letters  to  Atticus,   desires  his  friend  to  send  him   two 
specimens  of  Grecian  sculpture.    Formerly  it  was  famous  for 
its  earthenware ;  and   fine   vases  have  been   found  here  by 
modern  travellers  :  but  we  were  not  fortunate  in  our  inquiry 
after  its  terra-cottas  :  we  procured  only  a  few  fragments  of  a 

bright 


J1EGARA. 


767 


CHAP.XVIII. 


bright  red  colour,  beautifully  fluted,  that  we  found  lying 
among  the  ruins  of  the  city.  We  had  better  success  in  lmcriptims. 
our  search  for  Inscriptions ;  although  it  may  be  said  of 
Meo-ara,  (whose  antiquities  in  the  second  century  occupied, 
in  their  mere  enumeration,  six  chapters  of  l  Pausanias's 
description  of  Greece,)  that,  excepting  its  name,  it  retains 
hardly  any  thing  to  remind  us  of  its  former  consideration. 
The  first  Inscription  that  we  found  here,  is  "  in  honour  of 
Callinicus,  Scribe  and  Gymnasiarch."  It  was  upon  a  large 
stone,  twelve  feet  in  length,  in  the  front  of  an  antient  gate 
leading  from  the  city  towards  the  sea.  This  is  the  identical 
Inscription  which  Wheler  has  published 4;  and  we  discovered 
it  exactly  as  it  was  left  by  him.  The  next  is  a  very  fine  one, 
which  he  did  not  observe ;  and  it  is  much  more  worthy  of 
preservation.  We  saw  it  at  the  house  of  the  Archon  where 
we  lodged  :  it  is  in  honour  of  Hadrian,  whose  usual  titles  are 
added.  From  the  title  of  Olympius,  once  bestowed  by 
the  Athenians  upon  Pericles3,  and  answering  to  AIOI, 
we  are  able  to  ascertain  the  date  of  the  Inscription; 
which  is  of  the  year  of  Christ  132  \  It  sets  forth, 
that  "  under  the  care  of  Julius  the  Proconsul,  and  in 
the  Prcetorship  of  Aischron,  this  {monument  or  statue)  is  raised 
by  the  Adrianidce  to  Adrian." 

TON 


(1)  Fragments  of  the  Lapis  Conckites  mentioned  by  Pausanias  {Attic,  c.  44.  p.  107. 
ed.  Kuhnii),  and  vestiges  of  the  "  long  walls,"  were  observed  at  Mcgara,  by  Mr.  Walpole 
and  Professor  Palmer. 

(2)  See   "  Wheler's  Journey  into  Greece,"  p.  434.  Land.  1682. 

(3)  Vid.  Plutarch,  in  fin.  Pericl. 

(4)  Vid  Corsini  Fast.  Att.   Diss,  xi. 


ATTICA. 

TONAIIAYTOKPATOPAKAIIAPA 

TPAI  ANON 
AAPIANONZEBAITONOAYMniON 

I1YOION 
n  AN  EAAHNIONTONEAYTftN  KTIX 

TH  N  KAI  NO 
MOOETHNKAITPO<t>EAAAPIA 

NlAAIYnO 
THNEHIMEAEIANIOYAIOYKAN 

AITOYTOY 
KPATIZTOYANGYnATOYSTPATH 

TOYN 
TOIAIIXPflNOITOYAAMOK 
AEOYI 

We  copied  a  few  other  Inscriptions  ;  but  some  of  them  are 
already  published  \  and  the  others  are  in  too  imperfect  a 
state  to  be  rendered  intelligible.  The  medals  brought 
by  the  inhabitants  were  few  in  number,  and  badly  pre- 
served 2.     Ionic  and  Doric  capitals,  of  white  limestone  and 

of 

(1)  See  "■  Wheler's  Journey  into  Greece,"  p.  432,  &c.  Lond.  1682. 

(2)  Bronze  coins,  with  an  entire  legend,  MErAPEftN,  are  in  the  collection  at 
Paris;  exhibiting  the  head  of  Apollo  in  front,  and  for  reverse  a  Lyre :  but  these  seem 
to  have  belonged  to  a  city  of  Sicily.  The  medals  of  the  Attic  Megara  exhibit  in  front 
the  prow  of  a  ship ;  and  for  their  obverse,  either  a  Tripod  between  two  Dolphins,  or 
the  two  Dolphins  without  the  Tripod.  The  author  has  never  seen  a  silver  medal 
answering  this  description  ;  but  as  a  proof  that  these  are  medals  of  the  Attic  and  not 
of  the  Sicilian  Megara,  it  should  be  mentioned,  that  they  are  found  here  upon  the 
spot ;  and  the  circumstance  of  his  having  found  them  in  abundance  upon  the  neigh- 
bouring Isthmus  of  Corinth  may  be  also  alleged  as  presumptive  evidence  of  the  fact. 
The  oldest  medals  of  Megara  that  he  has  seen,  exhibit  two  Dolphins  in  fiont ;  and  for 
reverse  merely  a  square  indentation  :  and  these  were  found  by  him  at  Hexamillia  in  the 
Isthmus. 


JOURNEY  FROM  MEGARA  TO  ELEUSIS. 


769 


of  marble,  lie  scattered  among  the  Ruins,  and  in  the  courts    chap.xvhi. 

of  some  of  the  houses.     The  remains  of  the  "  long  walls  " 

which  inclosed  the  land  between  Megara  and  the  sea,  and 

connected  the  city  with  its  port,  are  yet  visible ;  and  within 

this  district,  below  the  present  town,  some  pieces  of  fine 

sculpture  have  been  discovered,  and  long  since  carried  away. 

Here  is  also  a  Well,  supposed  to  be  that  fountain  mentioned 

by  Pausanias s,  as  adorned  by  Theagenes,  and  sacred  to  the 

Sithnides ;  near  to  which  there  was  a  Temple,   containing 

the  works  of  Praxiteles.     A  modern  superstition   belonging 

to  this  WelV  seems  to  associate  with  the  circumstances  of 

its  antient  history,  and  thereby  to  identify  the  spot ;  which 

may  be    of  consequence   to   future    travellers,    who   visit 

Megara  for  the  purpose  of  making  excavations. 

Thursday  November  the  seventeenth  we  began  our  ^"*yto 
journey  from  Megara  towards  Eleusis  and  Athens,  filled 
with  curiosity  to  examine  the  vestiges  of  the  Eleusinian 
Temple;  and  along  a  tract  of  land  where  every  footstep 
excites  the  most  affecting  recollections.  By  every  antient 
zvell,  and  upon  every  tomb,  at  which  the  traveller  is 
induced  to  halt,  and  to  view  the  noble  objects  by  which  he 
is  surrounded,  a  crowd  of  interesting  events  rush  into  his 
mind  ;  and  so  completely  occupy  it,  that  even  fatigue  and 
fever,   from  which  he  is  seldom  free,    are   for  a  moment 

forgotten. 


(3)  "E<tti  Si  ey  rp  ttoXh  ^pijvt},  Kai  ofyioiv  fK0^6pr)a£  Qeayivrft,  k.  t.  \.  Kai 
u$wp  ie  avri]v  pel  Ka\ovp.tvov  £i0»'«W  vvp,(j>uy.  Pausaniae  Attica,  c.  40.  p.  9^- 
ed.  Kuhnii. 

(4)  See  Hobhouse's  Travels,  p.  482.     Lond.  1813. 

VOL.  III.  5   F 


770 


II  E  LLAS, 


ch^xvim.  forgotten.  As  we  left  Megara,  we  had  a  magnificent  view 
of  the  Saronic  Gulph,  and  of  the  Island  Salamis,  the  scene 
of  the  great  naval  engagement,  where  three  hundred  and 
eighty  sail  of  the  Grecian  fleet  defeated  the  vast  arma- 
ment of  Xerxes,  amounting  to  two  thousand  ships.  The 
distance  between  Megara  and  Eleusis,  according  to  the 
Antoninc  Itinerary ,  is  thirteen  miles.  After  travelling  half  an 
hour,  we  observed,  in  the  plain  upon  our  right,  the  remains 
of  a  building  which  seemed  to  have  been  an  antient  Temple ; 
and  one  mile  farther,  we  observed  a  similar  ruin  upon  an 
eminence  by  the  same  side  of  our  road.  The  plain  here 
is  very  beautiful  and  fertile.  When  Whelcr  passed,  it  was 
covered  with  anemonies1.  Another  ruin  appeared  also  upon 
a  hill  a  quarter  of  a  mile  nearer  to  Eleusis ;  and  a  little 
beyond  this,  upon  the  left,  close  to  the  road,  we  saw  two 
Tombs  opposite  to  each  other.  Soon  afterwards  we  came 
to  a  Well,  at  which  our  guides  stopped  to  wrter  their  mules. 
Soon  after  passing  this  well  we  saw  another  Tomb,  and 
many  heaps  of  stones,  as  of  ruined  structures,  upon  our  left. 
The  Reader,  comparing  these  remains  with  the  account  given 
by  Pausanias,  may  affix  names  to  them  according  to  his 
own  ideas  of  their  coincidence  with  his  description.  An 
author  would  not  be  pardoned  who  launches  into  mere 
Kerata.  conjecture  with  regard  to  any  one  of  them.  We  then 
began  to  ascend  a  part  of  the  mountain  Kerata,  so  named 
from  its  double  summit,  and  now  called  Gerata.  We 
saw    upon    the    shore    below    us    a   few   houses,    and    an 

appearance 

(l)  Journey  into  Greece,  p.  430.    Lond.  1682. 


772 


CHAP.XVIIf. 


Aqueduct. 


Temple  o) 
Ceres. 


Statue  of  the 
Goddess. 


Superstition 
of  the 

Inhabitant^. 


ELEUSIS. 

Arriving  upon  the  site  of  the  city  of  Eleusts,  we  found 
the  plain  to  be  covered  with  its  Ruins.  The  first  thing  we 
noticed  was  an  Aqueduct,  part  of  which  is  entire.  Six  com- 
plete arches  are  yet  to  be  seen.  It  conducted  towards  the 
Acropolis,  by  the  Temple  of  Ceres.  The  remains  of  this  Temple 
are  more  conspicuous  than  those  of  any  other  structure 
except  the  Aqueduct.  The  paved  road  which  led  to  it  is  also 
visible,  and  the  pavement  of  the  Temple  yet  remains.  But  to 
heighten  the  interest  with  which  we  regarded  the  reliques  of 
the  Eleusinian  fane,  and  to  fulfil  the  sanguine  expectations 
we  had  formed,  the  fragment  of  a  colossal  Statue,  mentioned 
by  many  authors  as  that  of  the  Goddess  herself,  appeared  in 
colossal  majesty  among  the  mouldering  vestiges  of  her  once 
splendid  sanctuary.  We  found  it,  exactly  as  it  had  been 
described  to  us  by  the  Consul  at  Nauplia,  on  the  side  of  the 
road,  immediately  before  entering  the  village,  and  in  the 
midst  of  a  heap  of  dung,  buried  as  high  as  the  neck,  a  little 
beyond  the  farther  extremity  of  the  pavement  of  the  Temple. 
Yet  even  this  degrading  situation  had  not  been  assigned  to 
it  wholly  independent  of  its  antient  history.  The  inhabitants 
of  the  small  village  which  is  now  situated  among  the  Ruins 
of  Eleusis  still  regarded  this  Statue  with  a  very  high  degree 
of  superstitious  veneration.  They  attributed  to  its  presence 
the  fertility  of  their  land;  and  it  was  for  this  reason  that  they 
heaped  around  it  the  manure  intended  for  their  fields.    They 

believed 


Eleusis,  (see  "  Journ.  into  Greece,"  p.  430.  Lond.  1682.)  which  we  failed  to  observe. 
The  Plain  of  Eleusis  is  about  eight  miles  long,  and  four  in  breadth.  Wheler  makes  the 
Rharian  Plain,  "  a  valley  only  three  or  four  miles  in  compass." 


E  L  E  U  S  I  S.  JJ3 

believed  that  the  loss  of  it  would  be  followed  by  no  less  a  chap.xviii. 
calamity  than  the  failure  of  their  annual  harvests  ;  and  they 
pointed  to  the  ears  of  bearded  wheat,  among  the  sculptured 
ornaments  upon  the  head  of  the  figure,  as  a  never-failing  indi- 
cation of  the  produce  of  the  soil.  To  this  circumstance  may 
perhaps  be  attributed  a  main  part  of  the  difficulties  opposed 
to  its  removal,  in  the  various  attempts  made  for  the  purpose, 
during  the  years  that  have  elapsed  since  it  was  first  noticed 
by  an  English  traveller1.  With  regard  to  the  allusions 
subsequently  made  to  it  by  other  writers,  as  the  author  has 
already  concentrated  every  testimony  of  this  nature5,  it 
will  not  be  necessary  to  repeat  them  here.  It  is  sufficient 
merely  to  state,  that  this  Statue,  consisting  of  the  white 
marble  of  Pentelicus,  which  also  afforded  the  materials  of 
the  Temple,  bears  evident  marks  of  the  best  age  of  the 
Grecian  sculpture  :  but  it  is  in  a  very  ruined  state.  A  vein 
of  schistus,  one  of  the  extraneous  substances  common  to  the 
Pentelican  marble,  traversing  the  whole  mass  of  the  stone 
in  a  direction  parallel  to  the  back  of  the  Statue,  has  suffered 
decomposition  during  the  lapse  of  ages  in  which  it  has 
remained  exposed  to  the  action  of  the  atmosphere  ;  and  by  its 
exfoliation,  has  caused  the  face,  and  a  part  of  the  neck,  of 
the  Statue,  to  fall  off;  but  in  the  Calathus,  which  yet  remains 
as  an  ornament  of  the  head,  the  sculpture,  although  much 
injured,  is  still  fine  :  and  that  it  was  originally  finished  with 

the 


(1)  Sir  George  Wheler  in  1676. 

(2)  "  Greek  Marbles;'  Cambridge,  ISO9.    To  which  may  also  be  added  the  testi- 
•  oony  of  Perry,  as  given  in  his  "  View  of  the  Levant"  printed  in  1743. 


774  ELEUSIS. 

chap.xviii.  tne  greatest  elegance  and  labour  is  evident ;  because,  in  the 
foliage  of  a  chaplet  which  surrounds  the  whole,  a  small  poppy 
is  represented  upon  every  leaf,  carved  and  polished  with  all 
the  perfection  of  a  Cameo.  The  remains  of  the  Temple  have 
been  described  by  almost  all  the  authors  who  have  mentioned 
the  Statue  ;  and  its  dimensions  are  given  by  Chandler1.  The 
broken  shafts  and  capitals  of  the  columns  lie  around  in  pro- 
miscuous heaps  of  ruin.  We  sought,  without  success,  the 
pedestal  believed  by  Wheler*  to  have  been  the  base  of  the 

inscriptions.      Statue;  but  we  discovered  the  following  Inscription  upon  a 
marble  pedestal  of  no  considerable  magnitude. 

HEiAPEIOnATOY 

BOYAH  KAIH  BOYAH 

TnN<t>KAIOAH  MOX 

OA0HNAIANKAAYAI 

ANMENANAPANKAAY 

AIOY<MAinnOYTOY 

AAAOYXHZANTO20YTATE 

PAKAAYAEMOZTPATOYET 

rONONAIARPASArOPOYA 

nOTONONAPETHIENEKEN 

"  In  honour  of  Claudia  Menandra,  the  daughter  of  Claudius 
Philippus,  ivho  had  been  Torch-hearer  at  the  Mysteries,  the 
Senate  of  the  Areopagus,  the  Council  of  Five  Hundred,  and 
People  of  Athens,  erect  this." 

We 


(i)  Travels  in  Greece,  p.  190.     Oxf.  1776. 
(2)  Journey  into  Greece,  p.  428.    Lond.  1682. 


£2WJ^*ra^3£l*KE£i* 


ELEUSIS. 


775 


We  found  also  another,  "  in  honour  of  one  of  the  Eu-  chap.xvhi. 
molpidce"  inscribed  upon  the  same  kind  of  bluish  limestone 
which  was  used  for  the  frieze  of  the  Ercctheum  at  Athens, 
and  of  which  the  Cella  of  the  Temple  here  also  consisted. 
The  stone  being  partly  buried,  we  could  only  read  the 
following  characters  : 

EYMOAniAHNAYKOMI.  .  .  . 

AIABIOYENEAEYZINIME.   .   . 

AAnnNENZAMHAETHZ 

EYZ  EBEI  AZEN  EKATHZ  .   .   PO  .   . 

Upon  a  very  large  cylindrical  pedestal  of  marble,  before 
a  small  church  now  occupying  a  part  of  the  site  of  a 
Temple3,  perhaps  that  of  Diana  Propylcea,  upon  the  brow 
of  the  hill,  we  found  another  Inscription  :  this  was  observed 
in  the  same  place  by  Spon,  and  it  was  afterwards  published 
in  his  work4. 

We  must  now  interrupt  our  account  of  the  Antiquities 
of  Eleusis,  by  a  transition  as  sudden  as  was  the  cause  of  it. 
Having  made  some  proposals  to  the  priest  of  the  village  for  the 
purpose  of  purchasing  and  removing  the  mutilated  fragment 
of  the  Statue  of  Ceres,  and  of  using  his  influence  with  the 
people  to  that  effect,  we  were  informed  that  these  measures 
could  only  be  pursued  by  obtaining  ajirmdn  from  the  Waiwode 
of  Athens  ;  to  whom,  as  lord  of  the  manor,  all  property  of  this 

description 


(3)  See  the  Engraving  from  Mr.  GeWs  accurate  view  of  Eleusis,   as  published  in 
1809  :   "  Greek  Marbles;'  p.  15. 

(4)  Voyage  de  Grece,  &c.  torn.  II.  p.  335.    a  la  Haye,  1724. 


Iflffc*  tt»w>- 


776 


FROM  ELEUSTS  TO  ATHENS. 


chap.xvui.  description  belonged.  We  no  sooner  received  the  information, 
than  we  resolved  to  set  off  instantly  from  Eleusis ;  and 
endeavour  to  accomplish  so  desirable  an  object.  For  the 
present,  therefore,  our  observations  will  be  principally 
confined  to  the  subject  of  this  undertaking. 

It  has  been  before  stated,  that  Ibrahim,  our  Tchohodar, 
was  himself  a  kinsman  of  the  Governor  of  Athens  ;  the  very 
person  unto  whom  an  application  in  this  instance  was 
necessary.  This  man  promised  all  the  assistance  in  his 
power ;  and  it  was  agreed,  that  the  whole  management  of 
the  affair,  as  far  as  it  related  to  the  Waiwode,  should  be  left 
to  his  discretion.  We  gave  up  the  design  we  had  formed,  of 
remaining  for  the  present  at  Eleusis,  and  set  out  for  Athens. 

A  part  of  the  pavement  of  the  Via  Sacra  is  still  visible 
after  quitting  the  site  of  the  Temple  of  Ceres,  and  the  remains 
of  several  monuments  appear  upon  either  side  of  it.  The 
great  ruins  of  the  Aqueduct  are  upon  the  left.  Soon  after- 
wards, close  to  the  road,  on  the  same  side  of  the  way, 
appears  an  oblong  quadrangular  base  of  some  fine  structure, 
consisting  of  large  blocks  of  white  marble,  neatly  fitted 
together.  There  are  other  works  of  the  same  kind.  Perhaps 
every  one  of  these  might  be  ascertained,  by  a  careful  atten- 
tion to  the  description  given  of  the  objects  in  this  route  by 
Pausanias  l.  Soon  after  leaving  Eleusis,  the  road  bears  east- 
ward across  the  Thriasian  Plain,  which  is  marshy  towards 

the 


Sudden  de- 
parture for 
Athens. 

Via  Sacra. 


(1;    two*  ch  br  'EXfi/ctva  f£  'ASqywy,   rjv  'Atfyyatot  koXovoiv  o'coV  itpdv,  k,  t,  A. 
Paus.  Attica,  c,  36.  p.  88.  ed.  Kuhnii. 


FROM  ELEUSlS  TO  ATHENS. 


77? 


the  sea ;  and  the  remains  of  the  old  causeway,  consisting 
of  large  round  stones,  overgrown  with  rushes,  along  which 
the  annual  procession  moved  from  Athens,  is  conspicuous 
in  many  places.  Hereabout  we  crossed  the  bed  of  a  river 
almost  dry,  and  saw  by  the  side  of  it  the  vestiges  of  a  Temple. 
Another  superb  basement  appeared  in  this  part  of  the  road, 
similarly  constructed,  and  of  the  same  materials  as  that  we 
have  just  noticed.  We  also  observed  the  Ruins  of  another 
Temple,  close  to  the  sea,  upon  our  right ;  whereof  one  column 
yet  remained ;  and  some  of  the  stones  were  still  standing. 
This  district,  lying  towards  the  borders  of  Attica,  in  a 
very  remote  age  constituted  the  regal  territory  of  Crocon  \ 
But  there  is  a  circumstance,  as  connected  with  the  most 
antient  geography  of  these  regions,  that  does  not  seem  to 
have  been  duly  regarded.  It  was  first  pointed  out  by  a 
learned  ancestor  of  the  author  of  these  Travels  :  and  as  it 
is  of  importance  in  the  establishment  of  an  historical  fact, 
namely,  the  common  origin  of  the  Goths  and  the  Greeks, 
it  may  be  here  briefly  stated,  as  deduced  from  his  obser- 
vations, and  founded  upon  the  authorities  he  has  cited3:  it 
is  this,  that  the  whole  of  the  Eleusinian  Plain;  together 
with  apart  of  Attica*,  were  once  included  within  the  limits 
of  Thrace,  whose  southern  frontier  extended,  as  Thucydides 

informs 


CHAP.XVIU. 


Vast  extent 
of  Antient 
Thrace. 


(2)  Vid.  Pausan.   ibid.  p.^1. 

(3)  See  the  "  Connexion  of  the  Roman,  Saxon,  and  English  Coins,"  &c.  by  William 
Clarke,  M.  A.     Lond.  1767.  pp.  65,  66,  67. 

(4)  Tjji/  pep  'Amicijv  oi   uerd  Ev/x6\7rov  QpaKeg  ev^cy.      Strabon,  Geog.  lib.  vii, 
VOL.  III.  5   G 


^*BWP*^ 


\i('if.,^»^i,yC« 


&*$?*?  ><«r*,i?T?   s^*:!^*,lw•',  >*!&*"* 


T-fm""T*.<Jiwa 


778 


from  eleusis  to  Athens 


chap.xvhi.  informs  us ',  even  to  the  Gulf  of  Corinth.  In  the  dispute 
between  Eumolpus  the  Thracian,  and  Erectheus  king  of 
Athens,  the  former  laid  claim  to  Athens  -  itself,  as  part  of  his 
father's  dominions.  The  capitals  of  these  two  princes  were 
not  more  than  fifteen  miles  distant  from  each  other  ;  and 
there  was  as  little  difference  in  their  manners  as  their 
situation.  This  appears  by  the  issue  of  the  war,  which  was 
so  amicably  concluded.  The  terms  were,  that,  for  the 
future,  the  inhabitants  of  both  cities,  Athens  and  Eleusis, 
should  be  considered  as  one  people3;  that  the  religion  of 
Eleusis,  the  mysteries  so  long  known,  and  so  much  revered 
under  that  name,  should  be  received  at  Athens ;  the 
descendants  of  Eumolpus  being  entitled  to  the  Priesthood, 
and  the  family  of  Erectheus  to  the  Crown  \ 

The  uhrti.  Two  streams  of  salt  water,   called  Rheti  by  Pausanias, 

are  described  by  him  as  the  limits  between  the  Eleusinian 
and  the  Attic  territories.  Before  we  reached  them,  and 
nearer  to  Eleusis,  we  had  passed,  as  we  have  stated,  the  bed 
of  a  river  whose  dry  and  pebbled  channel  was  almost  exhausted 
of  its  water.  By  the  side  of  it  we  observed  the  remains  of 
a   Temple  before  mentioned,   about    an    hundred  and    fifty 

paces 


(1)  Thucyd.  1.  ii.  c.  2Q.  p.  100. 

(2)  Hygin.   c.  46. 

(3)  Pausan.  lib.  i.  'Aro  rov  (i.e.  1Lv/,i6Xtov)  JLupoX7ricai  tcaXovvrai  nap 
hQi}vaioi<;.  Diog.  Laert.  in  procem.  p.  4.  Thucyd.  p.4g6.  Hesych.  et  Suidas  in  v. 
MujuoXiricai,  These  mysteries  were  supposed  to  come  originally  from  Orpheus. 
'Vuv  liLXzvcnviuv  rat  reXerdi  OP*ET2,  dvtjp  'Ocpv-rqc,  eU  rdc  'A.dtfvai  tKop,iaiv. 
Theodorct.  Therapeut.  "  Eleusiniorum  sacra  mystica  Oiu'Heus,  natione  Thrax,  in 
Athcnas  importavit."     See  also  Pausanias. 

(4)  Ibid.     Clarke's  Connexion,  &c.  p.  66.  Lond.  1/67' 


Ufr-SfitMl 


FROM  ELEUSIS  TO  ATHENS. 


779 


smian 
Cephis&us. 


paces  from  the  road  ;  and  this  stream  was  doubtless  the  chap.xviii. 
Eleusinian  Cephissus  of  Pausanias  '.  As  we  drew  near  to  the  Eieusi 
Rhcti,  the  road  passes  close  to  the  sea ;  and  here,  upon 
our  left  hand,  we  saw  a  small  lake,  which  owes  its  origin  to  saitLakc. 
a  dam  that  has  been  constructed  close  to  the  beach,  buoying 
up  a  body  of  salt  water :  this  water,  oozing  continually  from  a 
sandy  stratum,  fills  the  lake,  and  becomes  finally  discharged, 
through  two  channels,  into  the  Gulph.  These  appear  to  have 
been  the  ducts  to  which  Pausanias  alludes  under  the  appella- 
tion of  the  Rheti,  which  were  severally  sacred  to  Ceres  and  to 
Proserpine :  and  there  is  every  reason  to  believe,  that  the  lake 
itself  is  at  the  least  as  antient  as  the  time  when  the  Hiera  of 
those  Divinities  stood  upon  its  borders ;  else  were  it  difficult 
to  conceive  how  the  fishes  could  have  been  preserved,  which 
the  priests  alone  were  permitted  to  take  from  the  con- 
secrated flood 6.  It  is  hardly  credible,  that  a  supply  of  this 
nature  was  afforded  by  any  of  the  shallow  streams 
which  might  have  been  found  near  to  this  spot,  struggling 
for  a  passage  through  their  now  exhausted  channels. 
There  is  something  remarkable  in  the  natural  history  of  the 
lake,  besides  the  saline  property  of  its  water.  Our  guides 
informed  us,  that  petroleum,  or,  as  it  is  vulgarly  called, 
mineral  tar,  is  often  collected  upon  its  surface  ;  which  is 
extremely  probable,  owing  to  the  nature  of  the  sand-stone 
stratum  whence  the  water  flows,  and  to  the  marshy  nature 

of 


(5)  Paus.  Attic,  c.38.  p.  92.  ed.  Kuhnii. 

(6)  Aiyuvrai   <)£  01  'PEITOI  Kopijc   iepol   ml  ktfaijrpoc   dvai'  Kai   tovq  i\dvc  i£ 
>(vtu)v  tou;  Upzvaiv  h(jTiv  alpelv  fxovoiq.     Paus.  Attic,  c.  37.  p.  Ql.    ed.  Kuhiii. 


*ff*l 


780 


CHAP.XVIIi. 


Defile  of 
Daphne. 


The  rock 
railed  Facile. 


FROM  ELEUSIS  TO  ATHENS. 

of  the  land  in  its  vicinity.  Two  mills  are  now  turned  by  the 
two  streams  issuing  from  this  lake.  After  having  passed  the 
Rh&ti,  we  came  to  a  narrow  pass,  skirting  the  base  of  a  marble 
rock  toward  the  shore,  and  cut  out  of  the  solid  stone,  having 
the  sea  close  to  us  upon  our  right  hand.  This  narrow  pass 
was  evidently  the  point  of  separation  between  the  two 
antient  kingdoms  of  Eumolpus  and  Erectheus  \  Hence, 
turning  from  the  shore  towards  the  left,  we  entered  a 
narrow  valley  by  a  gentle  ascent,  which  is  the  entrance  to 
the  defile  of  Daphne;  and  we  perceived,  that  the  perpen- 
dicular face  of  the  rock,  upon  this  side  of  the  road,  had 
been  artificially  planed,  and  contained  those  niches  for  votive 
tablets  which  have  been  before  described  in  this  work. 
Such  appearances  are  always  of  importance  in  the  eyes  of 
the  literary  traveller,  because  they  afford  indisputable  proofs 
of  the  former  sanctity  of  the  spot  :  and  although  it  may  be 
difficult  to  state  precisely  what  the  nature  of  the  Hieron  was 
where  the  original  vows  were  offered,  it  will  perhaps  be  easy 
to  explain  why  these  testimonies  of  Pagan  piety  distinguish  this 
particular  part  of  the  Sacred  Way  :  the  niches  being  situated 
near  to  the  spot  where  the  first  view  of  Eleusis  presented  itself 
to  the  Athenian  devotees,  in  their  annual  procession  to  the 
city.  This  seems  to  have  been  the  rock  which  is  mentioned  by 
Pausanias,  under  the  appellation  of  Pozcile  :  in  his  Journey 
from  Athens,   he  mentions  its  occurrence  before  his  arrival 

at 


(l)  According  to  the  valuable  work  of  Mr.Hobhouse,  it  bears  the  appellation  usually 
bestowed  upon  such  passes,  of  Kake  Scala, — the  evil  way.  See  Hothouse's  Journey 
through  Albania,  &c.  p.  373.  Lond.  1813. 


ggrasiraw&iggjMEiggaB's'i 


FROM  ELEUSIS  TO  ATHENS. 


781 


at  the  Rheti,  and  at  this  extremity  of  the  defile9.     After  this     chapxvul 
we   came  to  a  wall,  which  is  supposed   to  be  alluded    to 
by  Pausanias  as  marking  the  site  of  a  Temple  of  Fenus3 ;  and    Ty™^toi 
presently,    in  the   very    centre    of   the    defile,   we    noticed 
a   large   antient  Tomb*,   and  arrived   at    the  Monastery   of    JJ°pasthery 
Daphne,  whose  romantic  situation  and  picturesque  appear- 
ance, in  the  midst  of  rocks  and  overshadowing  pines,  has  been 
a  theme  of  admiration   amongst  all  travellers.     Part  of  its 
materials  are  said   to  have  been  derived  from  the  ruins  of 
the  Temple  of  Venus,  now  mentioned.     The  Monastery  itself 
seems   to  occupy  the  situation   assigned  by  Pausanias  to  a 
Hieron,  containing  the  images  of  Ceres,  Proserpine,  Minerva,     Hieron  of 

Apollo. 

and  Apollo ;  and  which  had  been  originally  consecrated  to 
the  last  of  these  divinities  \  We  found  the  building  in  a 
ruined  state,  and  altogether  abandoned.  Our  Ambassador 
had  already  removed  some  of  the  antiquities  which  the 
place  formerly  contained;  but  we  saw  some  broken  remains 
of  Ionic  pillars  of  white  marble,  and  other  fragments  of  archi- 
tectural decorations,  whose  workmanship  denoted  the  best 
age  of  the  Grecian  sculpture;  and  in  all  the  pavements  of  the 
Monastery  there  were  pieces  of  the  finest  verd-antique  breccia, 
some  of  which  we  removed,  and  sent  afterwards  to  England. 

The 


(2)  To  YioiKtXov  KoKovfitvov  vpog,  K.r.X.  Vid.  Pausan.  Attic,  c.  37.  p.  91.  ed. 
Kuhnii. 

(3)  Mfra  ct  tovto  'AQpoSlrtjs  vadg  ion,  nal  irpo  avrov  rti^oc  dpyuv  \iduv  diai 
u^iov.     Pansan.  Attic,  c.  37- p.  91.    ed.  Kuhnii. 

(4)  Pausanias  mentions  the  rdtyoc  ot'Theodectes,  of  Phaselitas,  and  Mnesitheus  ;  and 
other  monuments  remarkable  for  their  magnitude  and  the  magnificence  of  their  con- 
struction.    Ibid.  p.  Q0. 

(5)  Ibid. 


*,/** 


782 


ATTICA. 


cHAP.xviii.     The  remains  of  «  Theatre  are  also  visible  before  leaving  this 
viewofAthens     defile  upon  the  right  hand ;  and  as  the  hills  opened  at  the  other 

at  sun-«et.  . 

extremity  towards  sunset,  such  a  prospect  of  Athens  and  of 
the  A  thenian  Plain,  with  all  the  surrounding  scenery,  burst 
upon  our  view,  as  never  has  been,  nor  can  be  described.  It 
presented  from  the  mouth  or  gap,  facing  the  city,  which 
divides  Corydallus  upon  the  south,  now  called  the  Laurel 
Mountain,  from  JEgaleon,  a  projecting  part  of  Mount  Parnes 
upon  the  north ',  immediately  before  descending  into  the 
extensive  olive-plantations  which  cover  all  this  side  of  the 
plain,  upon  the  banks  of  the  Cephissus.  There  is  no  spot 
whence  Athens  may  be  seen  that  can  compare  with  this  point 
of  view  ;  and  if,  after  visiting  the  city,  any  one  should  leave 
it  without  coming  to  this  eminence  to  enjoy  the  prospect 
here  afforded,  he  will  have  formed  a  very  inadequate  con- 
ception of  its  unspeakable  grandeur  ;  for  all  that  Nature  and 
Art,  by  every  marvellous  combination  of  vast  and  splendid 
objects,  can  possibly  exhibit,  aided  by  the  most  surprising 
effect  of  colour,  light,  and  shade,  is  here  presented  to  the 
spectator.  The  wretched  representations  made  of  the  scenes 
in  Greece,  even  by  the  best  designs  yet  published  in  books 
of  travels,  have  often  been  a  subject  of  regret  among 
those  who  have  witnessed  its  extraordinary  beauties  ;  and, 
in  the  list  of  them,  perhaps  few  may  be  considered  as  inferior 
to  the  numerous  delineations  which  have  appeared  of  this 
extraordinary  city.     But  with   such  a  spectacle   before  his 

eyes 

(1)  See  Hobhouse's  "  Journey  through  Albania,"  &c.  pp.370,  371.  Lond.  1813. 


A  T  T  1  C  A. 


783 


eyes  as  this  now  alluded  to,  how  deeply  does  the  traveller  chap.xviii, 
deplore,  that  the  impression  is  not  only  transitory  as  far  as  he 
is  concerned  in  its  enjoyment,  but  that  it  is  utterly  incapable 
of  being  transmitted  to  the  minds  of  others.  With 
such  reflections,  we  reluctantly  quitted  the  spot ;  and, 
passing  downwards  to  the  plain,  crossed  the  Cephissus,  and    Athenian 

Cephissus. 

entered  the  olive-groves  extending  towards  our  left  over  the 

site   of  the  Academy.     If  we  may  trust  the  account  given    siteofthe 

Academy. 

us  by  our  Tc/whodar,  there  are  not  less  than  forty  thousand, 
of  these  trees  ;  the  largest  and  finest  of  the  kind  we 
had  seen  in  Greece2.  The  air  here  is  very  unwholesome 
during  the  summer  months,  owing  to  the  humidity  of  the 
soil,  and  perhaps  principally  to  its  not  being  properly 
drained.     After    descending   from    the    defile  of    Daphne,     Return  to 

°  x  Athens. 

we  observed  a  large  Tomb  upon  our  left ;  and  before 
arriving  at  the  site  of  the  Sacred  Gate,  there  are  two 
other  Tumuli ;  and  the  remains  of  an  Aqueduct  may  be 
observed,  extending  in  the  direction  of  the  Academy. 
The  Tombs  are  mentioned  by  Pausa?iias,  in  his  journey  to 
Eleusis. 

In  the  evening  we  arrived  once  more  in  Athens  ;  and 
calling  upon  our  former  companion,  Lusieri,  were  hailed 
by  him  with  the  first  news  of  peace  between  France 
and  England  ; — a  joyful  intelligence  for  us,  as  we  instantly 

determined 


■ 


(2)  The  most  beautiful  wood  perhaps  ever  seen  in  England  is  that  of  Athenian  Olive, 
when  polished.  A  table  made  of  this  wood  is  in  the  possession  of  the  Earl  of  Egremont. 
It  has  been  cut  from  some  logs  of  the  olive-tree,  intended  as  fuel  in  Athens,  which  the 
author's  brother,  the  late  Captain  Clarke  of  the  Braakel,  brought  to  this  country. 


.'Etf'WW 


784 


CHAP.XVI1I. 


Negotiation 
with  the 
TVaiwode- 


ATTICA. 

determined  to  pass  through  France  in  our  journey  home. 
He  also  told  us  of  the  valuable  acquisitions,  in  vases,  gems, 
and  medals,  which  he  had  made  in  JEgina,  after  we  had 
left  him  upon  that  island. 

The  next  morning  our  Tchohodar  waited  upon  his  relation 
the  Waiwode,  and  communicated  to  him  the  subject  of  our 
wishes  respecting  the  Eleusinian  marble.  After  some 
deliberation,  the  Governor  acceded  to  our  request;  but 
upon  the  express  condition,  that  we  would  obtain  for  him 
a  small  English  telescope  belonging  to  Signor  Lusieri. 
This  request  opposed  a  very  serious  obstacle  to  our  views  ; 
because  it  became  necessary  to  divulge  the  secret  of  our 
undertaking,  to  a  person  indeed  in  whom  we  could  confide, 
but  who  was  at  the  moment  actually  employed  in  col- 
lecting every  thing  of  this  kind  for  our  Ambassador ;  who 
had  prohibited  the  removal  of  any  article  of  antient  sculpture 
on  the  part  of  his  countrymen,  excepting  into  his  own 
warehouses,  as  an  addition  to  the  immense  Collection  he 
was  then  forming,  in  the  name,  and  with  the  power,  of 
the  British  Nation.  Yet  was  there  no  time  to  be  lost :  the 
Waiwode  might  soon  mention  the  matter  himself  to  an 
intriguing  Consul,  who  paid  him  a  daily  visit;  and  then, 
(although  the  Statue  was  the  Waiwode  s  property,  and  of 
course  the  right  to  dispose  of  it  belonged  exclusively  to 
him)  we  had  reason  to  know  that  our  project  would  be  in- 
stantly frustrated.  Accordingly,  we  made  Lusieri  acquainted 
with  the  whole  affair  ;  and  our  generous  friend,  disdaining 
every  unworthy  consideration,  not  only  resigned  the 
telescope  upon  our  promise  of  sending  him  another  from 

England, 


ATHE  N  S.  785 

England ',  but  very  kindly  undertook  to  present  it  himself  chap.xvjii. 
to  the  Waiwode,  and  persuade  him  to  observe  silence  with 
the  Consul  respecting  the  measures  we  were  then  pursuing. 
The  desired  firman  was  therefore  obtained.  To  complete 
the  whole,  it  was  now  necessary  to  apply  to  the  Consul 
himself,  for  the  use  of  the  ferry-boat  plying  between 
Salamis  and  the  main  land  ;  as  the  only  means  of  conveying 
this  enormous  piece  of  marble  to  the  Pirceeus,  if  we 
should  be  so  fortunate  as  to  succeed  in  our  endeavours  of 
moving  it  from  its  place  towards  the  shore.  Such  an  appli- 
cation, as  it  might  be  expected,  excited  the  Consul's  curiosity 
to  the  highest  degree  :  but  after  many  questions,  as  to 
the  object  for  which  the  boat  was  required,  we  succeeded 
in  lulling  his  suspicions  ;  or,  if  he  had  any  notion  of  our 
intention,  he  believed  that  the  removal  of  the  Statue,  which 
had  often  been  attempted  before,  would  baffle  every  exertion 
that  we  could  make ;  and  a  messenger  was  despatched  to 
put  the  boat  under  our  orders.  All  being  now  ready,  we 
set  out  again  for  Eleusis  :  and  perhaps  a  further  narrative 
of  the  means  used  by  private  individuals,  unaided  by 
diplomatic  power  or  patronage,  to  procure  for  the  University 
of  which  they  are  members  this  interesting  monument  of 
the  Arts  and  Mythology  of  Greece,  although  a  part  of  it 
has  been  already  before  the  public,  may  not  be  deemed  an 
unwelcome  addition  to  this  volume. 

The 


(l)  We  had  the  satisfaction  of  hearing  that  he  has  since  received  it  safe.  It  was 
a  very  fine  telescope,  by  Ramsden  :  and  it  was  conveyed  to  him  by  the  author's  friend, 
Mr.  Walpole,  the  Extracts  from  whose  Manuscript  Journal  appear  in  this  Work. 

VOL.  III.  5  H 


?+rVj<xrf* 


*-.■■.  "rv:  <t*s  -[•**,'■ 


786 


HELLAS. 


cHAP.xvni.  Xhe  difficulties  to  be  encountered  were  not  trivial :   we 

Method  carried   with    us    from    Athens    but    few    implements  :    a 

devised  for 

removing  the     rope  of  twisted  herbs,  and  some  large  nails,  were  all  that 

Statue  of  .  tit  • 

Ceres.  the  city   afforded,  as  likely  to  aid  the  operation.     Neither 

a  wheeled  carriage,  nor  blocks,  nor  pulleys,  nor  even  a 
saw,  could  be  procured.  Fortunately,  we  found  at  Eleusis 
several  long  poles,  an  axe,  and  a  small  saw  about  six  inches 
in  length,  such  as  cutlers  sometimes  make  to  shut  into  the 
handle  of  a  pocket  knife.  With  these  we  began  the  work. 
The  stoutest  of  the  poles  were  cut,  and  pieces  were  nailed 
in  a  triangular  form,  having  transverse  beams  at  the  vertex 
and  base.  Weak  as  our  machine  was,  it  acquired  considerable 
strength  by  the  weight  of  the  Statue,  when  placed  upon  the 
transverse  beams.  With  the  remainder  of  the  poles  were 
made  rollers,  over  which  the  triangular  frame  might  move. 
The  rope  was  then  fastened  to  each  extremity  of  the 
transverse  beams.  This  simple  contrivance  succeeded,  when 
perhaps  more  complicate  machinery  might  have  failed  :  and 
a  mass  of  marble  weighing  near  two  tons  was  moved  over 
the  brow  of  the  hill  or  Acropolis  of  Eleusis,  and  from  thence 
to  the  sea,   in  about  nine  hours. 

An  hundred  peasants  were  collected  from  the  village 
and  neighbourhood  of  Eleusis,  and  near  fifty  boys.  The 
peasants  were  ranged,  forty  on  each  side,  to  work  at  the 
ropes ;  some  being  employed,  with  levers,  to  raise  the 
machine,  when  rocks  or  large  stones  opposed  its  progress. 
The  boys  who  were  not  strong  enough  to  work  at  the  ropes 
and  levers,  were  engaged  in  taking  up  the  rollers  as  fast  as  the 
machine  left  them,  and  in  placing  them  again  in  the  front. 

But 


E  L  E  U  S  I  S. 


787 


But  the  superstition  of  the  inhabitants  of  Eleusis,  chap^xvih. 
respecting  an  idol  which  they  all  regarded  as  the  protectress  Difficulties 
of  their  fields,  was  not  the  least  obstacle  to  be  overcome. 
In  the  evening,  soon  after  our  arrival  with  the  firman,  an 
accident  happened  which  had  nearly  put  an  end  to  the 
undertaking.  While  the  inhabitants  were  conversing  with 
the  Tchohodar,  as  to  the  means  of  its  removal,  an  ox,  loosed 
from  its  yoke,  came  and  placed  itself  before  the  Statue  ; 
and,  after  butting  with  its  horns  for  some  time  against  the 
marble,  ran  off  with  considerable  speed,  bellowing,  into  the 
Plain  of  Eleusis.  Instantly  a  general  murmur  prevailed  ; 
and  several  women  joining  in  the  clamour,  it  was  with 
difficulty  any  proposal  could  be  made.  "  They  had  been 
always,"  they  said,  "famous  for  their  com;  and  the  fertility 
of  the  land  would  cease  when  the  Statue  was  removed." 
Such  were  exactly  the  words  of  Cicero  with  respect  to  the 
Sicilians,  when  Verres  removed  the  Statue  of  Ceres : — 
"  Quod,  Cerere  violata,  omnes  cultus  fructusque 
Cereris  in  his  locis  interiisse  arbitrantur."  l  It 
was  late  at  night  before  these  scruples  were  removed. 
On  the  following  morning,  November  the  twenty-second, 
the  boat  arrived  from  Salamis,  attended  by  four  monks,  who 
rendered  us  all  the  service  in  their  power,  but  they  seemed 

perfectly 


(1)  Cicero  in  Verr.  lib.W.  c.  51.  The  circumstances  which  attended  the  removal 
of  the  Statues  of  Ceres  and  Triptolemus  from  the  Temple  at  Enna,  by  Verres,  were 
very  similar  to  those  which  opposed  themselves  to  our  undertaking. — "  His  pulchritudo 
periculo,  amplitudo  saluti  fuit,  quod  eorum  demolitio,  atque  asportatio,  perdijftcilis 
videbatur."     Vid.  lib.  iv.  c.  4g. 


■MBBB 


788  HELLAS. 

chap.xviii.    perfectly  panic-struck  when  we  told  them  that  it  was  our 
intention  to  send  the  Statue   in  their  vessel  to  the  Pirceeus ; 
and  betrayed  the  helplessness  of  infants  when  persuaded  to 
join  in  the   labour.    The  people  had  assembled,   and  stood 
around  the  Statue ;  but  no  one  among  them  ventured  to  begin 
the  work.    They  believed  that  the  arm  of  any  person  would 
fall  off  who  should  dare  to  touch  the  marble,  or  to  disturb 
its  position.     Upon  festival  days  they  had  been  accustomed 
to  place  before  it  a  burning  lamp.     Presently,  however,  the 
Priest  of  Eleusis,  partly  induced  by  entreaty,  and  partly  ter- 
rified by  the  menaces  of  the  Tchohodar ,  put  on  his  canonical 
vestments,  as  for  a  ceremony  of  high  mass,  and,  descending 
into  the  hollow  where  the    Statue  remained  upright,  after 
the  rubbish  around  it  had  been  taken  away,  gave  the  first 
blow  with  a  pickaxe    for  the    removal    of  the    soil,    that 
the  people  might  be  convinced  no  calamity  would  befal  the 
labourers.    The  work  then  went  on  briskly  enough  :  already 
the   immense    mass    of   marble   began  to    incline  from   its 
perpendicular ;     and    the   triangular   frame    was   placed   in 
such  a  situation,    that,  as   the   Statue   fell,    it    came    gra- 
dually upon  the  transverse  beams.     The  rope  was  then  cut, 
and  fastened    as  traces ;   one  half  of  it   upon   either  side ; 
and  our  machine,   supported  by  wrooden  rollers,  was  easily 
made  to  move.     In  this  manner,  at  mid-day,  it  had  reached 
the  brow  of  the  hill  above  the  old  port ;  whence  the  descent 
towards  the  shore,  although  among  ruins,   and  obstructed 
by  large  stones,  was  more  easy. 

New  difficulties  now  occurred.     It  was  found  that  the 
water  near  to  the  shore  was  too  shallow  to  admit  the  approach 

of 


ELEUSIS. 


789 


of  the  boat  from  Sal  amis,  for  the  conveyance  of  the  Statue    chap.xvhi 

on   board ;   and    the   old  quay  of  Eleusis,   which   consisted 

of  immense  blocks  of  marble   stretching   out   into   deeper 

water,  was  in  such  a  ruined  state,  that  several  wide  chasms 

appeared,  through   which   the  water  flowed.     Across  these 

chasms  it  would  be  necessary  to  construct  temporary  bridges, 

for  wrhich   timber   would  be  required  ;  and  even  then   the 

boat  could  not  be  brought  close  enough  to   the  extremity 

of  the  quay  to  receive  the  Statue.     Here   the  whole  of  our 

project   seemed    likely   to   meet  with   its  termination  ;    for 

it    was   quite  impossible,  without  any  mechanical   aid,    to 

raise  a  mass  of  marble  weighing  nearly  two  tons,  so  as  to 

convey  it  into  the  boat.     At  this  critical  moment,  when  we 

were  preparing   to  abandon   the  undertaking,  a  large  Casiot 

vessel  made  her  appearance,  sailing  between  Salamis  and  the 

Eleusinian  coast.      We  instantly  pushed  off  in  the  boat,  and 

hailed  her  ;  and    the  Captain  consenting  to  come  on  shore, 

we  not  only  hired  his  ship  to  take  the  Statue  to  Smyrna,  but 

also  engaged  the  assistance  of  his  crew,  with  their  boats  and 

rigging,  to  assist  in  its  removal.     These  men  worked  with 

spirit  and  skill ;  and  made  the  rest  of  the  operation  a  mere 

amusement.     At  sun-set,  we  saw  the  Statue  stationed  at  the 

very  utmost  extremity  of  the  pier-head. 

Early  on  the  following  day,  November  the  twenty-third, 
two  boats  belonging  to  the  vessel,  and  the  Salamis  ferry- 
boat, were  placed  alongside  of  each  other,  between  the 
ship  and  the  pier ;  and  planks  were  laid  across,  so  as  to 
form  a  kind  of  stage,  upon  which  the  Casiot  sailors  might 
work  the  blocks  and  ropes.     A  small  cable  was  also  warped 

round 


Success  of  the 
undertaking. 


{^"■a?*.- 


ES3  Oil  >«<^>UHmD     HimgHHHHMHHHH 


CHAP.XVIII. 


Further 
Account  of 
Eleusis. 


790  HELLAS. 

round  the  Statue ;  and  twelve  blocks  being  brought  to 
act  all  at  once  upon  it,  the  Goddess  was  raised  almost  to 
the  yard-arm  ;  whence,  after  remaining  suspended  a  short 
time,  she  was  lowered  into  the  hold  ;  and  the  Eleusinians 
taking  leave  of  her l,  the  vessel  sailed  for  Smyrna.  Having 
thus  ended  the  narrative  of  our  adventure,  we  may  now 
conclude  our  observations  concerning  the  Ruins  of  Eleusis. 
These  have  been  since  surveyed  with  so  much  attention  by 
other  travellers,  that  we  shall  merely  state  such  things  as 
may  perhaps  have  escaped  their  notice. 
Long  waiis.  It  has  been  supposed,  that  the  "  Long  Walls"  of  Athens, 

which  extended  from  the  Acropolis  to  the  sea,  and  inclosed 
the  Pirceeus,  were  a  peculiar  feature  of  the  Athenian  city  : 
but  this  is  by  no  means  true.  Such  a  method  of  connecting 
the  harbours  with  the  citadels  of  Greece,  was  a  very  general 
characteristic  of  the  manners  of  the  Grecian  people,  in  all 
places  where  the  Acropolis  was  not  actually  situated  upon 
the  shore.  This,  for  example,  was  the  case  at  Corinth: 
it  may  also  be  remarked  at  Megara,  and  at  Eleusis. 
The  Acropolis  of  Eleusis  is  half  a  mile  distant  from  the 
harbour.  Between  the  base  of  the  hill  upon  which  the 
Citadel  stood,  and  the  sea,  this  distance  is  occupied  by 
a  small  plain  ;  and  from  the  number  of  ruined  foun- 
dations, the  vestiges  of  temples,  and  of  other  Hiera,  all 
over  this  plain  towards  the  sea,  we  were  inclined  to  differ 

from 

(l)  They  predicted  the  wreck  of  the  ship  which  should  convey  it :  and  it  is  a  curious 
circumstance,  that  their  augury  was  completely  fulfilled,  in  the  loss  of  the  Princessa 
merchantman,  off  Beachy  Head,  having  the  Statue  on  board. 


E  L  E  U  S  I  S. 


791 


from  Wheler,  and  from  every  other  traveller,  by  considering 
this  piece  of  land  as  the  identical  spot  called  Rharium; 
where,  according  to  the  antient  traditions  of  Eleusis,  corn 
was  first  sown.  The  severe  illness  with  which  Triptolemus 
was  afflicted,  and  from  which  he  was  restored  to  health  by 
Ceres,  is  still  liable  to  attack  all  who  expose  themselves  to 
the  malaria  now  covering  this  part  of  the  Eleusinian  terri- 
tory: and  the  evil  might  again  be  removed,  as  it  then  was,  by 
subjecting  the  same  spot  once  more  to  the  labours  of  agricul- 
ture ;  carefully  cleansing  and  draining  the  soil.  This  being 
the  Rharian  plain  ;  the  great  plain  of  Eleusis,  upon  the  other 
side  of  the  Acropolis,  towards  the  west,  is  consequently  the 
Thriasian.  The  Rharian  plain  being  small,  and  between  the 
Citadel  and  the  sea,  was  in  all  probability  occupied,  in  antient 
times,  by  the  city  of  Eleusis,  and  by  many  of  its  sacred 
buildings.  The  remains  of  the  tivo  long  Walls,  which 
extended  from  the  Citadel  to  the  sea,  and  inclosed  the  port, 
are  yet  visible ;  and  within  this  inclosure  were  perhaps  the 
temples  of  Triptolemus  and  of  Neptune11.  The  Area  and 
Altar  of  Triptolemus  were  undoubtedly  within  the  Rharian 
plain3.  The  temple  of  Diana  Propylcea  was,  of  course,  as 
its  name  implies,  the  Holy  Gate  of  the  Citadel ;  and  probably 
it  stood  upon  or  near  to  the  spot  which  is  now  occupied 
by  a  small  Church  or  Chapel  upon  the  brow  of  the  hill. 
That  of  Ceres,  built  during  the  administration  of  Pericles, 

by 


CHAP.XV1II. 


Of  the 
Rharian  and 
Thriasian 
Plains. 


Temples  of 
Triptolemus, 
of  Neptune, 

and  of  Diana 
P  ropy  la  a. 


Temple  of 
Ceres. 


(2)  Vid.  Pausaniae  Attic,  c.  38.  pp.  Q2,  Q3.   ed.  Kuhnil 

(3)  To  Se  irediov  to  'Paptov,   k.  t.  \.    'Evravda  "AAft2  KaXov/itvi]  TPIIITOAEMOT, 
ml  BftMOS  fo'iKwrai.     Ibid.  p.  93. 


w.t-t*  z&zw  ^m 


I  J/'iLi'V-  .■^~'T/.i''"-Ay.;- 1  F:U''-;ro^^»-^4«iJW^^S^^M^«Mh«^V^*^^  T-'W^piij", 


792 


HELLAS. 


Port  of 
Eleusis, 


cHAP.xviH.  by  Ictinus  the  architect  of  the  Parthenon  at  Athens,  and 
mentioned  by  Plutarch  ',  by  Strabo  \  and  by  Vitruvuis  \  was 
perhaps  destroyed  before  the  invasion  of  Alaric,  at  the  end 
of  the  fourth  century ;  and  even  before  the  time  of  Pausanias 
in  the  second;  as  it  is  not  mentioned  by  him.  But  as  Phidias 
presided  over  all  the  artists  employed  to  complete  it4,  and  the 
marble  of  Mount  Pentelicus  was  employed  in  its  construction, 
it  is  easily  to  be  recognised  in  those  Ruins  among  which  the 
Statue  was  discovered ;  an  area  or  pavement,  leading  to  it, 
being  of  Pentelican  marble,  and  still  existing,  at  the  com- 
mencement of  the  Thriasian  plain,  upon  the  western  side  of  the 
Acropolis.  The  antient  port  of  Eleusis  was  entirely  artificial ; 
being  inclosed  by  a  semicircular  pier  of  white  marble.  Going  to 
this  port  from  the  modern  village  (which  does  not  contain  forty 
houses),  along  the  remains  of  the  northern  wall,  you  come  to 
the  Ruins  of  another  large  Temple,  consisting  of  prodigious 
masses  of  stone  and  marble.  Here  then  was  one  of  the 
temples  before  mentioned  ;  perhaps  that  of  Neptune,  being  so 
near  to  the  port.  At  a  distance  to  the  right,  in  what  we  have 
considered  as  the  Rharian  plain,  is  another  considerable  Ruin, 
a  part  whereof  is  yet  standing ;  and  the  foundations  of  other 
structures  may  be  discerned.  All  this  plain,  between  the 
Acropolis  and  the  sea,  is  covered  with  the  fragments  of 
former  works ;   and  upon  this   side  was  the  Theatre ;  the 

form 

(1)  Plutarch,  in  Pericl.  vol.1,  p.  15g. 

(2)  Strabon.  Geog.  lib.  ix. 

(3)  Vitruv.  in  Praefat. 

(4)  TldvTa  Is  heiTTE  nal  irdvruv  iniaKonoc  r\v  avTf  <I>EIAIA2.    Plutarch,  in  Pericl. 


Antient 
Theatre. 


RETURN     TO   ATHENS. 


793 


form  of  which  may  be  distinctly  traced  upon  the  slope  of    chap.xviii. 

the  hill,  near  the  southern  wall  leading  to  the  sea.    Upon 

the  summit  of  the  Acropolis  are  the  vestiges  of  the  Citadel ;     Acropolis. 

also   some  excavations,  which  were  once  used   as   cisterns, 

similar    to    those    of    other    cities    in    the    Peloponnesus. 

Looking  down  upon  the  great  Thriasian  plain  from  the  top 

of  this  rock  (whose  shape  is  an  oblong  parallelogram,  lying 

nearly  parallel  to  the  shore),  the  back  of  the  spectator  being 

towards  the  sea,  the  remains  of  the  Temple  of  Ceres  appear 

at  the  foot  of  the  north-west  angle;   and  to  the  left  of  this, 

in  the  road  to  Megara,  exactly  as  it  is  described  by  Pausanias, 

in   the  very  beginning  of  the  route,  is  the  Well  called  by 

him b  clv&ivov ;   close   to    the   foundation   of   some  Hieron   or 

Temple.    A  little  farther  towards   the  left  lies  the  colossal 

marble  Torso  of  a  Lion,   or   of  a  Sphinx,  which  was  before 

noticed  in  our  arrival  at  Eleusis  from  Megara. 

Having  thus  amply  gratified  our  curiosity  with  regard    Return  to 

r       i   •  lii  •  Athens. 

to  the  remains  of  this  remarkable  city,   and  accomplished 
the  object  of  our  wishes  by   the   removal    of  the  Statue   of 
Ceres,  we  returned  in  high    spirits   to  Athens,    to  prepare 
for  a  journey  through  Bceotia,  Phocis,   Thessaly,   Pieria, 
Macedonia,  and  Thrace,  to  Constantinople. 


(5)  'Eirepa  Bt  oBdg  c£  'EXti/oii/oc  rpSi  Mcyapa  dyei.     TavTi/v  cpyopcvoic  rrjv  6S6i>, 
tppiap  early  avQivov  Ka\ovp.tvov.    Pausan.  Attica,  c.  39.  p.  94.    ed.  Kuhnii. 


VOL.   III. 


5  I 


'■Ci^^i^tS.'vrS-'-'T^/'^ri  !-Y'?(i 


^^m  v    v>  £,-j^4.  ^m 


704 


ADDITIONAL   NOTES 


SECOND  SECTION  OF  PART  THE  SECOND. 


Page  4,  line  4.  "  Although  his  death  did  not  immediately  follow."] — He  was 
afterwards  visited  by  Colonel  Squire,  in  company  with  Major  Leake  of  the  Artillery,  and 
Mr.  Hamilton.  The  last  of  these  gentlemen,  it  seems,  as  private  secretary  of  the  Earl 
of  Elgin,  had  some  diplomatic  arrangements  to  make  with  Djezzar,  and  wished  to 
gain  information  with  respect  to  the  commerce  and  condition  of  Syria.  These  circum- 
stances are  related  in  Colonel  Squire's  MS.  Journal.  The  party  sailed  from  Alexandria 
on  Monday,  April  the  5th,  1802  }  and  came  to  anchor  off  the  town  of  Caifta  on  the 
morning  of  April  the  9th.  This  part  of  Colonel  Squire's  Journal  is  too  interesting  to 
be  omitted,  although  the  author  did  not  receive  it  until  many  sheets  of  this  Section  of 
his  Work  had  been  printed.  For  the  present  edition,  therefore,  it  has  been  inserted 
immediately  after  the  Additional  Notes.  It  begins  with  their  visit  to  the  Sheik  of 
Caiffa. 

P.  8.  1. 13.  "  As  at  that  time  the  model  of  every  Christian  sanctuary  was  derived  from 
the  Holy  Land,  and  generally  from  the  church  of  the  Holy  Sepulchre,  where  the  pointed 
style  may  yet  be  discerned  in  the  original  covering  of  the  Sepulchre  itself"'] — The  curious 
work  of  Bernardino,  "  Trattato  delle  Piante  et  Immagini  de  sacri  Edifixi  di  Terra 
Santa,"  published  at  Florence  in  lG20,  gives  the  rules  and  exact  dimensions  for  the 
construction  of  sanctuaries  after  the  model  of  the  Holy  Sepulchre,  which,  at  the  time 
of  Bernardino's  visit  to  Jerusalem,  was  entirely  surrounded  with  pointed  arches.  The 
pointed  arches  of  the  Mikias,  in  the  Isle  of  Rhouda,  near  Cairo,  are  of  the  ninth  century, 
as  will  be  proved  in  a  subsequent  Note.  Many  other  instances  might  be  adduced  to 
prove  that  the  pointed  style  in  architecture  existed  in  all  the  oldest  Saracenic  structures ; 
but  the  Eastern  origin  of  the  pointed  arch  has  been  so  satisfactorily  demonstrated  by 
Whittington,  (Hist.  Surv.  of  Ecclesiast.  Antiq.  &c.)  by  Haggitt,  (Lett,  on  Gothic 
Architect.)  by  Kerrich,  (Observ.  on  the  Churches  of  Italy,  Archceol.  vol.  XVI.)  and 
by  Hawkins,  (Hist,  of  the  Orig.  &c.  of  Gothic  Architecture,)  that  an  obstinate  denial 
of  the  fact  is  merely  the  struggle  of  ignorance  against  the  acknowledgment  of  error. 

•  P.  30.  1. 12.  "A  basket  lined  perhaps  with  close  matting,  or  leather."] — Those  baskets 
arc  made  capable  of  containing  water  without  lining.  "  The  Mahrea  Arabs  have  the 
art  of  making  wicker  baskets  of  so  close  a  texture,  that  they  carry  in  them,  milk,  water,, 
and  bouza."     See  Note  to  p.  I89  of  Browne's  Travels,  Lond.  1 799. 


ADDITIONAL    NOTES. 

P.  55. 1.19.  "At  this  hour  we  often  resorted  to  the  Isle  of  Rhonda."'} — The  author  omitted 
to  notice  the  visit  he  made  to  the  Mikias,  or  Nilometer,  upon  this  island,  in  company 
with  Mr.  Hammer.  As  the  interior  of  this  building  was  long  concealed  from  the 
observation  of  Europeans,  it  may  be  proper  to  mention,  that  the  roof  is  supported  by 
pointed  arches  erected  early  in  the  ninth  century.  Mr.  Hammer  copied  some  Cuphic 
inscriptions  upon  the  walls,  stating,  that  the  building  was  constructed  by  the  Caliph 
Al-Mamoun,  in  the  year  21 1  of  the  Hegira,  answering  to  the  year  833  of  our  sera. 
The  same  fact  is  attested  by  the  observations  of  Le  Pere,  as  read  to  the  French  Institute 
at  Cairo,  January  the  11th,  1799.  {V°y-  Decade  Egyptienne,  torn.  II.  p.  278.  au  Kaire, 
An  viii  de  la  Republique.)  For  the  rest,  the  building  has  been  recently  so  often 
described,  that  it  was  not  thought  necessary  to  give  a  particular  account  of  it. 

P.  143.  1.  9.  "  This  has  been  often  related  before."] — Diodorus  particularly  alludes  to 
the  same  thing.  "  But  this  work,"  says  he,  "  is  not  only  worthy  of  praise  on  account 
of  its  magnitude,  but  wonderful  for  the  skill  displayed,  and  remarkable  for  the  nature 
of  the  stone  ;  since  that  in  so  much  vastness  there  was  not  a  fissure  nor  a  blemish 
visible."  To  cc  'tpyov  rovro  fxtj  p6vov  eivat  Kara  to  fiiytOos  ctjro^o^j/c  afyov, 
dWd  Kal  r?/  tc\ vr\  duvp-aardv,  ical  rr\  rov  Xidov  (pvirei  ctdipopov,  ok  dv  iv  rtf\it:ovrM 
usyidet  /utjre  ciatyvdSoij  jx^te  KtjXiBos  /nijcefxid^  dcupovp^yrj?.  Diod.  Sic.  lib.  i.e.  47- 
p.  57.    ed.  IVesselingii.    Amst.  1746. 

P.  146.  1.5.  "As  to  the  age  of  this  Inscription,  the  reader  must  determine  for 
himself"'] — At  the  same  time  it  may  be  proper  to  add,  that  it  bears  the  characteristic 
Of  9  high  antiquity  in  the  manner  of  applying  the  writing.  There  is  a  passage  in  the  Book 
of  Deuteronomy  which  proves  that  the  custom  of  writing  upon  plaister  existed  in  the 
fifteenth  century  before  the  Christian  aera.  The  Israelites  are  thus  instructed  to  write  the 
Law  ;  and  it  is  very  probable  that  Moses  had  learned  the  art  from  the  Egyptians.  "  Thou 

SHALT    SET    THEE   UP    GREAT    STONES,    AND     PLAISTER     THEM     WITH     PLAISTER  :      AND 
THOU    SHALT    WRITE    UPON    THEM    ALL    THE    WORDS    OF    THE    LAW.      DeUt.  XXvii.  2,  3. 

P.  263.  1.2.  "  The  epithet  Atoe  was  consequently  appropriate."] — The  Bishop  of 
Clogher,  in  his  Essay  on  the  "  Origin  of  Hieroglyphics,  and  on  the  Heathen  Mythology," 
p.  116.  Lond.  1/53.  has  the  following  observation.  "  In  Greek,  the  word  A?oc  signi- 
fies the  same  as  the  word  Divus  among  the  Latins ;  that  is,  a  divine  person. 

P.  227.  1.  16.  "  From  the  time  ofRuffinus,  of  Socrates,  and  of  Sozomen,  this  type  has 
occasionally  exercised  the  ingenuity  and  the  erudition  of  the  most  learned  scholars."] — It  is 
the  jewel  of  the  Royal  Arch  among  Freemasons,  and  is  expressed  in  this  manner,  j-L| 
a  sign  consisting  of  three  Taus  joined  by  their  feet  at  right  angles  ;  thus  completing  the 
monogram  of  Thoth,  or  Taaut,  the  symbolical  and  mystic  name  of  hidden  wisdom  and 
of  the  Supreme  Being  among  the  antient  Egyptians  5  the  0EOS  of  the  Greeks. 
"  Numen  illud,"  says  Jablonski,  (Panth.  JEgypt.  torn.  III.  p.  170.  Francof.  1752.) 
"  erat  ipse  Phthas,  Vulcanus  iEgyptiorum,  Spiritus  infinitus,  rerum  omnium  creator 
"  et  conservator,  ipsorumque  Deorum  pater  ac  princeps."  It  is  amusing  to  trace  the 
various  modifications  by  which  this  type  of  hidden  wisdom  is  expressed.     Sometimes,  as 

the 


7.95 


•y^H-i/ti" 


796* 


ADDITIONAL    NOTES. 

the  sun  in  the  lower  hemisphere,  (See  Jablonski,  torn.  I.  p.  235.)  it  appears  in  hiero- 
glyphic writing  under  this  sign,  ^XX^  At  other  times  k  was  written  O,  and  hence 
we  see  clearly  what  is  meant  by  an  antient  patera  with  a  knob  in  the  bottom  of  it. 

Its  other  principal  varieties  were,  -£jl  £f  T  T*  T  M'  UPon  Greek  medals 
we  find  the  last  monogram  written  |— J  •  However,  as  all  the  sacred  mysteries  seem 
to  owe  their  origin  to  those  sources  whence  the  human  race  derived  the  means  of 
subsistence,  the  following  remarks  of  the  Bishop  of  Clogher  may,  with  reference  to  an 
instrument  in  agriculture,  simply  explain  all  that  was  intended  by  the  earliest  represen- 
tations of  this  symbol.  "  As  to  the  Crux  ansata,  (says  he)  which  hath  so  much 
puzzled  the  learned  world,  &c.  it  is  no  more  than  a  setting-stick  for  planting  roots 
and  larger  seeds."     See  Origin  of  Hieroglyphics,  p.  121.     Lond.  1753. 

P.  443.  1.  3,  4.    "  An  antient  and  memorable  lav;,"  &c] — The  same  law  is  in  ./Elian, 
lib.  iii.  cap.  37- 

P. 450.  1.13.  "  We  found  fifteen  columns  yet  standing.""] — The  Sunian  Temple  has  been 
recently  visited  by  the  Rev.  G.  C.  Renouard,  Chaplain  to  the  British  Factory  at  Smyrna. 
This  gentleman  has  communicated  the  following  notices  concerning  it,  in  a  Letter  to 
the  author  : 

"  There  are  now  standing,  on  the  south-east  side, 

On  the  north  side     ------ 

On  the  north-west  side     - 

Total 

"  Length  of  the  Temple  from  n.w.  to  s.e. 

Breadth 

Height  of  columns  from  base  to  cornice 
Distance  of  columns  from  centre  to  centre 
Circumference  at  two  feet  from  base 
The  same  gentleman   has  transmitted  to  the  author  the  following  beautiful  Inscription, 
recently  discovered  in  Samos.     It  relates  to  a  woman  of  the  name  of  Tyhinna,  who 
died  at  the  age  of  twenty-seven. 

'H   ytvtn  Bdfyj  Tt  Kal  iv  fxovanm  Tvptvva 

''E£ovoc,  v  wdons  aicpa  tyipovo    dptrty:, 

'YLvvedfias  rptaadtj  trtuv  frjaatra,  roxsvtriv 

\vGT)')voi<;  tXtrrov  cdicpva   kui  arovavas. 

ITa<,   ydp,  ipov  (pdtfxh'tjc,   \npor,   ^6/nor  ovte  yap  aurt} 

A-HTTOfXCU,    OVT     c\t7T0V    (jkaOTOV    dvOf^oplvn. 

'Avrt   Be  irarptgov  koX    v\pop6(j>oto  ptXddpou, 

Attrrj  Tovfiov  tvei   aufiu   Xa^ovaa   irirpn. 
Et  c   yp>  evtrsfliov  baio<;  \6yor,  oihror    riV  oikos 

Ov  'fide,  tp.ov  (pdifxiytfi;,  raioh'  tvi"^ypat  ru^ac:. 


9 

columns. 

3 

3 

15 

72 

feet 

45 

23 

8 

9 

.  104 

inches." 

■ 


ADDITIONAL   NOTES. 

P.  473.  1.  3  of  Note.  "  For  the  purest  Greek  is  not  spoken  at  Athens."] — The  greatest 
proof,  perhaps,  of  plagiarism  that  can  be  adduced,  is  one  of  this  nature  j  shewing,  that  even 
the  eri-ors  of  an  author  have  been  transcribed.  If  either  Wheler  or  his  companion  had 
given  themselves  the  trouble  to  consult  the  authors  cited  by  Meursius,  they  would 
have  found  the  very  opposite  of  their  assertion  expressly  stated  ;  that,  of  above  seventy 
dialects  now  remaining  in  Modern  Greece,  the  Athenian,  instead  of  being  the  purest, 
is  the  most  corrupted,  and  the  worst.  Tlepl  cc  ruv  li<CkU~Mv,  t'i  dv  kui  Eiirotfii, 
7ro\\(ov  ovtrav,  kui  ^tacpopoiy,  threp  tmv  cjlco^itjKOvra  ;  tovtuv  0'  ciira^ur,  ?/  ro>y 
'AOrfvaiav  ^tipirrrt).  (Fid.  Epist.  Sim.  Calasilcc,  ad  Mart.  Crus.  script,  anno  1578.) 
And  Theodosius  Zygomalas,  in  his  Letter  to  the  same  person,  says,  speaking  of  the 
Greek  language  in  Athens,  'WuiXcov  cc  fidpfiapoc,  iariv  >/  ruv  Adtjvuiuv  >j  -u,  ?\v 
ore  v7Ti\pyjv,  dp'iVTTf  Civ  tic,  si  emtjj  KaraBtdfierpov.  rn  7rd\ai3  <>i'^  dv  dp,dproi. 
Meursii  for tuna  Attica,  p.  113.  L.Bat.   1(322. 

P.  494.  last  line.  "  The  hat  was  intended  as  a  distinguishing  token."] — It  is 
still  so  considered  at  Athens.  Guilletiere,  in  giving  an  account  of  the  Vecchiados  or 
Elders,  selected  out  of  the  principal  Christian  families,  forming  a  part  of  the  jurisdiction 
of  the  city,  says  they  are  distinguished  from  the  other  citizens  by  wearing  "  little  hats." 
These  are  his  words  : — "  Les  Vecchiados  portent  de  petits  chapeaux,  pour  les  distinguer 
des  autres  habitans."     Voyage  d'Athenes,  p.  15Q.    Paris,  l0'/5. 

P.  500.  1.11.  "  The  most  admirable  specimens  of  the  art  of  sculpture."']  — 
Mr.  Cripps  has  preserved,  in  his  MS.  Journal,  a  note,  dictated  by  Lusieri,  relative 
to  a  very  curious  discovery  made  by  that  artist  with  regard  to  the  sculptured  ornaments 
of  the  Erectheum.  The  author  also  well  remembers  its  being  pointed  out  to  him  by  the 
same  person  upon  the  spot.  Lusieri  found  among  the  most  delicate  intertexture  of  the 
wreaths  and  foliage,  small  brass  nails,  and  bits  of  antique  glass,  which  had  been  fastened 
on  to  heighten  the  general  delicacy  and  exquisite  finishing  of  the  work.  This  circum- 
stance has  been  noticed  by  no  other  traveller.  Perhaps,  according  to  our  notions  of 
taste,  as  founded  upon  the  Grecian  school,  these  works  appear  more  beautiful  in  their 
present  nakedness  than  they  would  have  done  if  we  had  beheld  them  as  they  were 
originally  finished,  when  they  were  painted  and  gilded,  and  studded  with  glass  beads, 
or  invested  with  other  extraneous  ornament. 


797 


P.  5O9.  I.  16.  "  By  the  word  Theatre  the  Antients  intended  the  whole  body  of  the 
edifice,"  See] — Plutarch  considers  ®iarpov  to  be  derived  from  0£oV  ;  because,  before 
theatres  were  built,  the  Chorus  sang  the  praises  of  their  Gods,  and  the  commendation 
of  illustrious  men. 


KZ**W  ■  M ifr ■ 


I  i   -     I  Hj  1    i 


APPENDIX. 


799 


N°I. 


EXTRACT  from  COLONEL  SQUIREV  MS.  JOURNAL 

GIVING  AN  ACCOUNT  OF  CAIFFA,  ACRE,  &c.  AND  OF  HIS 
INTERVIEWS  WITH  DJEZZAR  PASHA. 


"  At  noon  (April  gfh,  1802,)  we  went  on  shore,  and  endeavoured  to  see  the  Sheik 
(Governor)  of  Caiffa.  At  this  moment  we  could  not  see  him;  for  the  day  (Friday) 
being  the  Mahometan  Sabbath,  he  was  engaged  at  the  Mosque.  In  the  interval  we 
proposed  to  make  a  small  tour  without  the  town ;  but  we  were  told  that  the  gates  were 
then  shut,  and  that  they  would  not  be  opened  until  the  prayers  at  the  Mosque  were 
ended  :  this,  as  it  appears,  is  a  custom  in  many  parts  of  the  East ;  for  they  fear  that 
while  the  Mussulmen  are  engaged  in  the  duties  of  their  religion,  the  Christians  may 
enter  secretly  and  take  the  place  by  surprise : — indeed,  they  have  a  tradition  to  this 
effect.  After  the  noon- prayer  was  concluded,  we  had  an  audience  of  the  Sheik  in  a 
miserable  smoked  chamber ;  the  key  of  which,  alter  a  great  search  and  inquiry,  was 
with  some  difficulty  procured.  He  regaled  us  with  coffee;  and  as  there  was  only  one 
extra  pipe  for  the  accommodation  of  his  guests,  it  was  passed  from  one  person  to  another ; 
and  we  smoked  alternately.  During  our  conference,  an  unfortunate  sivallow  which 
had  taken  up  its  abode  in  the  Sheik's  mansion  was  constantly  hovering  over  our  heads1. 
In  the  course  of  conversation,  the  Sheik  observed,  that  he  was  born  near  England,  as  he 
was  a  native  ot  Algiers:  he  alluded  to  our  fortress  of  Gibraltar  ;  for  the  Turks  consider  all 
our  foreign  possessions  as  England.  Ismael  Pasha,  a  respectable  Turk,  declared  he  had 
been  in  England,  because  he  had  once  visited  Gibraltar.  After  coffee  and  pipes,  we  pro- 
ceeded towards  Mount  Carmel.    This  mountain,  which  may  perhaps  be  two  hundred  feet 

above 


(1)  For  the  universality  of  the  superstition  with  regard  to  the  swallow,  the  Reader  is  requested 
to  refer  to  p.  547,  and  Note,  of  Part  I.  of  these  Travels,  second  edit. :  also  to  v.  149  of  the  Electra 
of  Sophocles,  where  the  same  bird  is  called  A'«  hy^s-  See  the  end  of  Chap.  xvi.  of  this  section 
of  Part  II. 


i^a.WS-Sijri: 


Jl~/1«»T> 


IB  ■  mNk! 


800 


APPENDIX,   N°  I. 

above  the  level  of  the  sea,  is  covered  with  a  variety  of  shrubs  and  aromatic  plants,  which 
may  render  the  air  as  wholesome  as  it  is  fragrant  and  agreeable  :  the  ascent  was  by  a 
slope;  and  this,  although  now  covered  with  weeds  and  brambles,  appears  to  have  been 
formerly  a  regular  road  to  the  Convent  on  its  summit.  In  the  beginning  of  the  ascent, 
we  observed  a  sort  of  grotto  excavated  in  the  rock.  On  the  point  immediately  above 
the  sea,  are  the  remains  of  a  well-built  Monastery,  which,  since  the  appearance  of  the 
French  in  these  countries,  has  been  entirely  destroyed  by  the  Turks.  Below  this  there 
is  a  smaller  Convent.  It  is  inhabited  by  a  Turk,  and  its  church  has  been  converted 
into  a  mosque  :  it  is  excavated  from  out  of  the  solid  rock  ;  being  about  fifty  feet  long, 
twenty-five  feet  wide,  and  twenty  feet  in  height.  On  our  return  to  CuiJJ'a  along  the 
sea-shore,  at  the  foot  of  the  mountain,  we  observed  a  range  of  Catacombs  in  the  rock, 
which  had  probably  been  the  burying-place  of  an  antient  town  in  the  neighbourhood  : 
on  the  floor  of  these  Catacombs  were  cavities  for  the  reception  of  bodies.  Near 
this  place  is  a  tower  of  masonry,  with  five  embrasures  in  the  lower  part  for  the 
defence  of  the  anchorage  :  at  present,  no  guns  are  mounted  there. 

"  Caijfa  itself  is  a  miserable  village,  close  to  the  sea-side,  and  opposite  to  Acre  :  it  is 
of  an  oblong  figure;  its  longest  side,  parallel  to  the  sea,  being  about  two  hundred  yards  ; 
and  its  shortest,  one  hundred  and  fifty  yards  in  length.  It  is  completely  inclosed  by  a 
stone  wall  about  fifteen  feet  high,  with  square  towers  at  the  angles.  On  a  small  eminence 
immediately  above  the  town,  and  completely  commanding  it,  is  a  square  tower,  which, 
as  well  as  the  towers  of  Caifl'a  itself,  has  been  dismantled  of  its  guns  by  the  Pasha  of 
Acre,  since  the  arrival  of  the  French  in  Syria.  From  the  summit  of  Mount  Carmel  the 
view  of  the  Bav  of  Caijfa  was  picturesque  in  the  extreme.  On  the  opposite  side,  was 
Acre ;  and  beyond,  the  towering  heights  of  the  Anti- Lebanon,  with  a  small  chain  of 
mountains  intervening,  which  seemed  to  retire  and  lose  themselves  in  the  interior  of 
the  country.  Bordering  on  the  bay  appeared  an  extensive  plain,  with  the  River  Kishon 
meandering  through  the  middle  of  it.  From  the  root  of  the  Convent  on  the  summit 
of  Mount  Carmel,  Acre  bore  n.  e.  by  n.  distant  seven  miles ;  Mount  Saphet,  e.  and 
by  n.  distant  fifteen  miles;  a  town  on  a  projecting  point  on  the  coast,  s.  s.  w.  distant 
four  miles.  Mount  Carmel  consists  of  hard  limestone,  varied  sometimes  by  thin  strata 
of  flint." 


On  the  12th  of  April,  Colonel  Squire  sailed  from  Caijfa  for  Acre.  His  Journal 
then  continues. 

"  Wind  e.  s.  e.  light  breezes.  At  half  past  six  a.m.  weigh  anchor  ;  and  at  half  past 
seven,  bring-to  at  the  entrance  of  the  harbour  of  Acre.  A  boat  came  from  the  town, 
which  undertook  to  bring  the  vessel  into  the  harbour.  Our  pilot,  it  appeared,  was  a 
sort  of  harbour-master,  and  has  constantly  twenty  men  employed  for  his  assistance. 
As  soon  as  the  vessel  was  moored,  the  Captain  of  the  port  stripped  himself,  made  a 
dive  under  the  vessel's  bottom,  and  told  us  there  were  four  feet  of  water  between  the 
keel  and  the  anchoring  ground.     The  man  was  extremely  old  ;  and  we  were  surprised 

at 


APPENDIX,    NUI. 

at  his  activity  and  attention:  however,  upon  inquiry,  he  said,  that  he  obeyed  the 
orders  of  Djezzar,  who  would  immediately  take  off  his  head  should  an  accident  happen 
to  any  ships  moored  in  the  harbour  of  Acre.  After  a  salute  of  thirteen  guns,  which 
was  returned  by  Djezzar's  batteries,  we  landed,  with  a  view  to  pay  our  compliments  to 
the  Pasha.  Djezzar  was  setting  in  a  small  apartment  at  the  farther  extremity  of  a  court 
in  the  upper  floor  of  the  Seraglio.  The  court  was  planted  with  orange  and  lemon 
trees,  and  other  shrubs  ;  and  one  side  was  occupied  by  the  Charem. 

"  Djezzar  received  us  in  a  very  gracious  manner,  saying,  that  he  had  always  loved  the 
English  because  they  were  a  brave  nation ;  and  seemed  to  insinuate  that  his  friendship 
was  perfectly  disinterested  ;  that  he  was  independent  of  all ;  that  he  had  plenty  of  guns 
and  troops  of  his  own  j  in  short,  that  he  was  able  to  defend  himself  without  the 
assistance  of  others.  When  we  inquired  with  respect  to  the  march  of  the  Vizier  through 
Syria,  and  his  return  from  Egypt  to  Constantinople,  he  replied  :  '  I  know  not  which  way 
*  he  is  gone ;  they  say  he  is  how  at  Damascus  ;  he  will  scarcely  leave  a  beard  or  mustachio 
'  in  any  town  that  he  passes  through.  When  he  was  at  Cairo,  he  desired  me  to  send  timber 
'  for  his  army:  my  reply  was,  I  am  not  a  seller  of  wood.'  So  that  Djezzar  fully  explained 
his  situation  and  his  politics  ;  continually  launching  forth  in  his  own  praises  ;  at  the  same 
time  that  he  abused  the  Vizier  and  his  creatures.  '  The  Vizier  (said  he)  has  rich 
'  dresses  and  precious  ornaments  in  abundance ;  but  he  carries  all  his  wealth  on  his 
'  person.  I  am  a  Bosniac,  a  rough  unpolished  soldier,  not  accustomed  to  courts  and 
'  politeness,  but  bred  in  camps  and  in  the  field.  I  have  no  handsome  pelisses  nor  fine 
'  shawls  :  my  troops,  however,  are  well  paid,  and  numerous.  I  am  expert  (added  he) 
( in  the  management  of  a  sabre  :  with  a  single  stroke  of  my  sword,  I  have  cut  in  two  the 
'  barrel  of  a  musquet.' 

"  Djezzar  sat  in  the  upper  corner  of  the  apartment :  close  to  his  hand  was  a  four- 
barrelled  pistol,  very  richly  mnnnted  ;  behind  him  were  two  musquets,  a  sabre,  and  an 
axe;  a  silver  spitting  cup  was  in  his  left  hand;  and  in  another  part  of  the  room,  a 
drinking  mug  of  wood,  made  by  himself,  and  always  kept  in  the  apartment:  the 
ceiling  was  ornamented  with  landscape  painting  of  his  own  invention.  The  Divan 
(the  part  raised  a  few  inches  above  the  floor)  was  covered  with  a  thin  common  carpet; 
the  other  part  of  the  chamber  with  a  mat.  Djezzar  leans  on  a  low  crutch,  placed 
under  his  right  arm,  which  he  said  he  had  always  used  instead  of  the  fine  downy 
cushions  of  the  rich  and  indolent.  He  was  dressed  in  an  old  darned  pelisse,  with 
blue  cloth  trowsers,  in  the  Turkish  style,  and  a  red  shawl  on  his  head  as  a  turban.  He 
remarked,  that  he  was  sleeping  when  we  fired  our  salute;  that  he  had  been  rather 
unwell ;  that  the  report  of  the  guns  awoke  him,  and  that  the  grateful  sound  had  revived 
him  from  his  indisposition. 

"  Djezzar  may  be  between  seventy  and  eighty  years  of  age  ;  he  has  lost  the  greater 

part  of  his  teeth,  has  a  respectable  grey  beard,  and  a  prominent  nose  ;  and  though  when 

he  smiles  he  may  impose  upon  one  the  appearance  of  good  nature,  the  ordinary  cast 

of  his  countenance,   with   his   wrinkled  brow,    sufficiently   denotes  his   well-known 

Vol.  III.  5  K  familiarity 


801 


^M 


802  APPENDIX,  N°I. 

familiarity  with  conspiracies  and  assassination.     After  taking  our  leave,  we  visited  the 

fortifications  of  Acre,  towards  the  land,  with  the  Dragoman  of  Djezzar ;   who  pointed 

out  to  us  the  position  of  the  French  camp,  and  the  different  points  against  which  the 

attack  was  directed.     The  camp  was  in  the  plain,  about  two  miles  south-east  from  the 

town,  extending  itself,  from  the  sea,  as  far  as  the  remains  of  a  church  near  the  aqueduct 

which  once  conveyed  water  to  Acre.    Part  of  this  building  was  destroyed  by  Buonaparto : 

that  part  which  was  near  the  town  has  been  levelled  by  Djezzar  since  the  departure 

of  jhe  French,  that  he  might  render  the  defences  of  his  works  as  open  and  clear  as 

possible.     With  the  same  view  he  has  levelled  most  of  the  trees  in  the  neighbourhood. 

IN.  B.    Here  Col.  Squire  enters  into  a  very  detailed  account  of  the  fortifications  of 

Acre.~\ 

"  The  Mosque,  built  by  Djezzar  about  fifteen  years  ago,  has  a  large  dome,  and 

both  outside  and  within  is  very  richly  ornamented.     We  observed  in  the  walls  large 

pieces  of  Verd-antique,  and  specimens  of  many  different  kinds  of  marble  :   the  ornaments 

within  are  light,  and  painted   in  very  gay  colours :  the  whole  building  has  more  the 

appearance  of  a  fine  theatre,  than  a  place  for  devotion.     We  were  not  permitted  to 

ascend  the  minaret :  here  it  is  the  office  of  a  blind  person  to  call  the  people  to  prayers, 

that  there  may  be  no  opportunity  from  this  elevated  situation  to  observe  the  women  in 

the  Pasha's  Charem.     Before  being  admitted   into  the  Mosque,   we  were  obliged  to 

purchase  thin  slippers,  and  wear  them  as  a  mark  qf  respect,  leaving  our  boots  at  the 

entrance.     The  court  of  the  Mosque,  in  the  centre  of  which  is  a  neat  fountain,  and  a 

small  plantation  of  palm  and  cypress  trees,  is  surrounded  by  a  sort  of  cloister,  and  small 

apartments,  in  which  are  deposited  the  books  of  Djezzar.     These  aiso  serve  as  lodging 

places  for  the  chief  people  of  the  law.    Under  the  Mosque  is  a  large  reservoir  for  water ; 

and  we  were  informed,  that,  at  present,  a  ten  years'  supply  of  water  for  the  town  is 

collected  in  the  different  cisterns.      Without  the  gate  of  the  Mosque,  and  opposite  to 

the  entrance  of  the  Seraglio,   is  a  handsome  fountain,  with  basons  of  white  marble, 

and  furnished  with  drinking  cups,   very  convenient  for  the  inhabitants.      Since  the 

campaign  of  the  French  in  Syria,  the  fortifications  of  Acre  have  been  repaired,  and 

considerably  increased  :   those  which   have  been  added  are  much  more  substantial  than 

the  old ;   the  masonry,  though   not  finely  wrought,   is  solid   and  well  executed;    the 

stones  which  compose  it  are  taken  from  the  walls  and  foundations  of  the  ancient 

Ptolema'is.    The  whole  of  the  ramparts  are  surmounted  with  a  sort  of  battlement,  which 

Djezzar  told  us  was  very  useful  when  the  enemy  mounted  to  the  assault :  for  these 

stones,  being  loosened,  were  tumbled  down  upon  the  French,  and  occasioned  very  great 

confusion.     When  the  French  besieged  Acre,  their  attack  was  directed  on  the  Bourge 

Ali,  at  the  north-east  angle;  and  the  besiegers  took  advantage  of  irregularities  in  the 

ground,  of  the  garden  walls,  and  of  a  small  ravine,  and  more  particularly  of  the 

remains  of  an  aqueduct  which   once  conveyed  water  to  Acre.     Djezzar,  profiting  by 

this  experience,  has  entirely  levelled  the  aqueduct  near  the  town,  and  is  determined  that; 

fet  the  future,  the  enemy  shall  not  have  the  smallest  shelter. 

"The 


APPENDIX,   N»  I. 


803 


"  The  Bay  of  Acre,  or  Caiffa,  is  seven  miles  in  width,  and  perhaps  a  league  and  an 
half  in  length  :  the  sweep  is  nearly  semicircular  :  the  soundings  in  general  ten  or  eleven 
fathoms  j  and  the  holding  ground  near  the  village  Caiffa,  on  the  south  side,  excellent. 

"  A  low  sandy  ridge,  projecting  from  the  south  point  of  the  bay,  forms  a  secure  road- 
stead abreast  of  Caiffa,  and  is  always  preferred.  Two  small  streams  discharge  themselves 
into  the  Bay  of  Acre :  one  about  a  mile  east  of  Caiffa,  supposed  to  be  the  Kishon  of  the 
Sacred  Scripture :  a  second,  called  the  River  of  Acre,  discharges  itself  into  the  sea,  perhaps 
a  mile  and  an  half  from  the  town.  This  stream  is  shallow,  inconsiderable,  and  frequently 
changes  its  direction.  The  beach  of  the  bay  does  not  seem  convenient  for  landing, 
being  much  exposed  to  the  westerly  winds,  flat  and  shallow,  with  a  continual  surf. 

"  April  the  13th.  Soon  after  breakfast  we  visited  Djezzar,  who  was  very  talkative, 
and  shewed  us  several  specimens  of  his  ingenuity  :  he  cut  out,  in  our  presence,  a  gun, 
in  paper,  with  a  pair  of  scissars ;  told  us  he  was  a  great  adept  at  this  art,  and  would  let 
us  see  his  performances :  these  consisted  of  vases  and  flowers,  very  neatly  cut,  and  adorned 
with  different  inscriptions  from  the  Koran,  and  had  been  further  decorated  by  a  painter 
in  the  town :  he  also  showed  us  the  model  of  a  powder-mill  to  be  worked  by  horses, 
of  his  own  invention.  When  we  made  him  a  compliment  on  the  gallant  defence  of 
Acre,  by  himself  and  Sir  Sidney  Smith, — '  Ah  !  (replied  he)  all  events  are  from  God. 
'  Fate  has  always  favoured  Djezzar  j  and  confident  in  my  own  strength  and  means,  I 
'  never  feared  Buonaparte.  Nor  do  I  care  for  the  Vizier :  when  he  marched  through 
'  this  part  of  Syria,  he  did  not  dare  to  approach  Acre ;  for  he  knew  I  was  well  able  to 
(  receive  him.' 

"  After  having  taken  our  leave,  we  wished  to  visit  the  fortifications  towards  the  sea : 
we  were  however  told,  that  it  would  be  better  to  walk  without  the  town ;  for 
Djezzar  could  not  be  responsible  for  our  safety  within,  as  it  was  the  time  of  a  festival 
(the  Kourban  Eeiram,  the  sacrifice  of  lambs),  during  which  the  soldiers  fire  their  pistols 
continually  (always  with  ball),  and  perhaps  some  accident  might  befal  us.  Mr.  Hamilton 
returned  to  Djezzar,  to  make  some  diplomatic  arrangements ;  while  Major  Leake  and 
myself  took  a  walk  on  the  north  side  of  the  fortifications. 

"  Djezzar's  Dragoman  (Bertocini,  a  Genoese)  informed  us,  that  thirteen  years  ago, 
on  account  of  a  suspected  conspiracy  between  his  Mamaluke  slaves  and  his  Georgian 
and  Circassian  women,  he  put  them  all  to  death,  eleven  females,  by  throwing  them 
alive  into  a  well,  and  thus  leaving  them  to  expire  :  he  also  mutilated  a  vast  number  of 
them,  by  cutting  off  their  noses,  who  had  had  the  smallest  communication  with  the 
Mamalukes.  It  is  supposed  that  Djezzar  has  thirteen  women  inhisCharem:  their 
dresses  being  made  in  the  town,  and  a  billet  being  sent  to  the  workmen  for  a  dresa 
for  such  a  particular  number. 

"  At  four  p.  m.  we  re-embark. 

"  April  the  14th.  After  breakfast  we  visited  Djezzar.  We  brought  with  us  a 
packet,  which  we  requested  him  to  forward  by  a  courier  to  Aleppo.  '  Am  I  (said 
'  he,  in  a  violent  rage,)  the  Sais  Bashi  (Chief  of  the  Couriers).    Your  conduct  is  very 

'  extraordinary  : 


J-1«E»>  W&*  ^T^Y         **  *" 


804 


APPENDIX,    N°I. 


*  extraordinary :  the  first  day  you  visit  me  as  a  friend  ;■ — you  make  me  no  present. 
'  You  suspected  my  friendship  from  the  first.  Instead  of  coming  directly  to  Acre,  why 
-'  did  you  anchor  at  Caiffa?'  [We  were  prevented  by  the  weather,  and  our  pilot's 
entire  ignorance  of  the  harbour.]  '  On  the  second  visit  you  desire  to  see  the  plans  of 
'  my  fortifications  ;  and  while  the  two  others  go  without,  and  examine  my  fortifications, 
'  you  {addressing  himself  to  Mr.  Hamilton)  remain  with  me,  open  the  object  of  your 
'  mission,  and  wish  me  to  make  peace  with  the  Druzes  5  a  subject  I  cannot  bear  to  advert 
'  to.'  Mr.  Hamilton  attempted  an  explanation  ;  and  told  him  that  the  simple  subject 
of  his  inquiry  was,  whether  Sir  Sidney  Smith  had  interfered  in  the  affair  of  the  Druzes, 
or  not ; — that  Lord  Elgin  was  extremely  sorry  to  have  heard  a  report  of  that  nature ; — 
that  the  conduct  Of  those  persons  who  had  communicated  with  the  enemies  of  Djezzar 
should  be  strictly  inquired  into  :  and  he  concluded  by  observing,  that  he  hoped  Djezzar 
would  receive  an  English  Consul  at  Acre.  This,  indeed,  was  the  subject  of  the  conver- 
sation of  yesterday.  Djezzar  has  mistaken  the  whole :  like  a  true  tyrant,  always  filled 
with  jealousy  and  suspicion,  he  imagined  that  we  were  emissaries  from  the  English,  and 
wished  to  re-establish  the  affairs  of  the  Druzes.  He  would  hearken  to  no  explanation; 
but  entertained  suspicions  which  we  saw  it  would  be  wholly  impossible  to  erase. 
The  Emir  Bechir  (Prince)  of  the  Druzes,  who  governs  the  Mountains  (of  the  Lebanon) 
inhabited  by  this  people  and  the  Maronites,  is  continually  at  war  with  Djezzar,  and 
has  refused  the  contributions  annually  levied  in  the  Mountains.  Djezzar  retains  two 
nephews  of  the  Emir  in  his  Seraglio,  as  hostages,  in  case  any  act  of  hostility  should 
be  shewn  by  the  Prince  of  the  Mountains.  When  the  French  were  before  Acre,  they 
attempted  to  bring  over  the  Druzes  and  Maronites  to  their  alliance.  Sir  Sidney  Smith, 
gaining  intelligence  of  this,  very  prudently  despatched  emissaries  to  counteract  the 
French  intrigue  in  the  Mountains ;  and  made  ample  promises  of  his  friendship  and 
protection  to  the  Druzes.  This  people  had  always  been  the  declared  enemies  of 
Djezzar ;  and  the  short-sighted  policy  of  the  tyrant  made  him  most  inveterate  against 
Sir  Sidney  and  the  English,  on  account  of  their  correspondence  in  the  Mountains. 

' '  '  I  can  {added  Djezzar)  let  the  English  know  that  I  am  as  powerful  in  my 

*  enmities,  as  I  am  faithful  and  sincere  in  my  friendships.  Am  I  to  be  dictated  to  ? 
'  I,  who  have  held  the  sword  over  the  heads  of  the  Beys,  shall  I  lower  it,  and  be 
'  humbled  by  the  English  ?  No,  {exclaimed  he,)  I  can  withstand  them  all.  I  will  have 
'  no  communication  with  the  English.  I  will  have  no  Consul  of  that' nation;  not  one 
'  of  their  ships  shall  come  into  my  harbour j  they  shall  not  approach  within  gun-shot 
'  of  my  fortifications.'  Mr.  Hamilton  still  attempted  to  explain  :  and  at  last,  Djezzar 
went  so  far  as  to  say,  that  it  was  not  with  Sir  Sidney  Smith  that  he  was  offended  ;  that 
it  was  with  a  Mr.  Wright,  Lieutenant  of  the  Tigre,  and  the  Vice-Consul  of  Tripoli,  a 
Frenchman,  whom  he  considered  the  cause  of  the  breach  between  him  (Djezzar)  and 
Sir  Sidney.  '  Mr.  Wright  {continued  he)  and  the  other  had  been  to  visit  the  Chiefs  of  the 
1  Druzes  ;  had  made  arrangements  with  them,  and  had  even  returned  with  some  of  the 

*  Princes  to  Acre;  and  Sir  Sidney  ought  certainly  to  have  prevented  this  communication  : 

however, 


-&L* 


APPENDIX,    N°I. 


805 


'  however,  (said  he)  I  am  not  offended  with  him.'  In  short,  in  his  extreme  anger, 
he  frequently  contradicted  himself.  Leake  and  myself  smiled  upon  some  observations 
between  ourselves.  Djezzar  became  furious.  '  I,  who  have  been  a  Pasha  of  three  tails 
'  these  five  years ;  I,  (said  he)  who  have  defeated  twelve  thousand  Druzes  with  twenty 
(  horsemen,  am  I  to  be  insulted  in  this  manner  ? — I  am  speaking  seriously.  Am  I  to  be 
'  laughed  at  and  derided  ? — I  am  an  old  man  :  you  are  children  :  look  at  my  beard. — 
'  I  am  choleric  ;  I  know  not  what  may  be  the  consequences  !  Had  I  not  been  in  my 
*  own  house,  I  should  instantly  have  bursted  forth  and  died  with  indignation  !  I  am 
'  now  in  such  a  rage,  and  have  talked  so  much,  that  I  can  neither  see  nor  distinguish 
'  any  of  you !'  His  mouth,  at  different  times,  was  so  parched  with  anger  and  exertion,  that 
he  took  large  draughts  of  water,  and  remarked,  that  he  had  never  drank  so  much  water 
in  his  life.  After  a  violent  conversation  of  two  hours,  in  which  the  cruelty,  the  tyranny, 
the  ingratitude  of  this  monster  were  displayed  in  their  blackest  colours,  we  took  our 
departure ;  telling  him,  that  we  would  repeat  our  visit  in  the  evening. 

"  In  the  course  of  this  morning's  interview,  he  told  us,  that  he  was  a  just  man,  and 
fond  of  order  and  regularity.  '  If  my  soldiers  touch  me,  or  have  the  appearance  of 
'  offering  the  smallest  insult)  I  immediately  order  them  to  be  beheaded.  If  a  man 
'  insults  a  woman,  his  punishment  is  the  same.  If  I  desire  a  man  to  sit  down  in  my 
'  presence,  and  I  go  out  of  the  apartment,  and  he  quits  his  seat  before  my  return,  the 
'  loss  of  his  head  is  the  consequence.' 

"  In  the  afternoon,  we  again  landed  with  an  intention  to  visit  the  Pasha  j  but  we 
were  told  by  the  Dragoman,  that  he  had  gone  into  his  Charem,  and  would  not  be 
visible  this  evening:  we  therefore  returned  to  the  ship. 

"April  15th.  After  breakfast  we  went  ashore  with  an  intention  to  visit  Djezzar j 
but  we  were  told  by  his  Dragoman,  that  he  had  issued  orders  at  the  gates  of  the  Seraglio 
to  refuse  our  admission.  We  then  inquired  if  it  were  possible  to  hire  horses,  to  pass 
by  land  to  Tripoli :  the  Dragoman  answered  in  the  negative  j  for  there  would  be  no 
security  for  our  persons.  We  then  determined  to  get  under  weigh,  and  proceed  to 
Tripoli  by  sea.  At  one  p.  m.  we  were  unmoored,  and  got  out  of  the  bay,  with  a 
small  breeze  from  the  northward." 


.  tfif«,X  I'M  Oi  I  ■  JM  H  W- ' 


"7-Wr-"WiW 


806 


APl'ENDIX,   N°ll 


Nil. 


f 


ON   THE 

DISCOVERY  BY  COLONEL  CAPPER 

OF  THE  EXISTENCE  OF 
ANTIENT   PAGAN   SUPERSTITIONS   IN    MOUNT  LIBANUS, 

PARTICULARLY  THOSE  WHICH  RELATE  TO  THE  WORSHIP  OF  VENUS. 


1  he  superstition  discovered  by  Colonel  Capper  can  be  considered 
as  nothing  less  than  the  expiring  embers  of  those  holocausts  which 
once  blazed  in  honour  of  Sidonian  Astarte1.  The  Venus  of  Libanus 
was  called  Asthoreth,  from  the  number  of  sacrifices  offered  to  her. 
Eusebius  mentions  this  situation  of  her  temple  ;  it  was  built  in  the 
most  secluded  solitude  of  that  mountain  \  Constantine  overthrew 
the  temple,  and,  according  to  Augustine3,  abolished  its  detestable 
rites ;  but  these,  however,  have  in  some  measure  survived,  and 
remain  at  the  present  day  among  those  wretched  superstitions  which 

degrade 


(l)  Astarte,  Astaroth,  Ashtaroth,  Asthoreth,  Astara,  (See  the  Inscriptions  communicuted  to  Part  I. 
of  these  Travels,  by  Charles  Kelsall,  Esq.  from  the  Cimmerian  Bosporus,  p.  402.  Second  edit.)  Aestar, 
(whence  our  word  Aester  :  See  chap.  X.  p.  317.  Note  2,  of  the  former  Polume  :  also  Gale's  Court 
of  the  Gentiles,  B.  ii.  c.  2.)  Nothing  tends  more  to  elucidate  and  simplify  Heathen  mythology, 
than  the  constantly  bearing  in  recollection  the  identity  of  all  those  Pagan  idols  which  were 
distinguished  by  these  several  names  ;  (to  which  may  be  added  the  other  less  similar  appellations 
of  the  same  Phoenician  Goddess ;)  viz.  Atergatis,  Juno,  Isis,  Hecate,  Proserpine,  Ceres,  Diana, 
Europa,  (Cicer.  de  Natur.  Deor.  lib.nl)  Venus,  Urania,  Dercetis,  (Ovid.  Metam.  lib.'w.)  and 
Luna.  The  Arabians  called  her  Alilat,  and  still  preserve  their  Aliluia.  Among  the  Chaldeans  she 
was  called  Militta. 

(2;   Eusebius  de  Laudib.  Constant.  Orat.  et  de  Praep.  lib.  iv.  cap.  7. 

(3/  Augustin.  de  Civitat.  Dei,  lib.  iv.  cap.  10. 


APPENDIX,    N°II. 

degrade  a  multitude  of  human  beings,  to  whom  the  Holy  Scriptures 
have  been  hitherto  denied.  However  impious  and  abominable  these 
superstitions  at  last  became,  they  were,  in  their  origin,  of  a  purer 
nature  ;  having  resulted  solely  from  the  veneration  paid  by  a  grateful 
people  to  those  luminaries  of  heaven,  whence  they  supposed  all  their 
blessings  to  be  derived.  Before  the  coming  of  the  Jews  into  the 
Promised  Land,  it  is  evident,  from  Scripture,  that  the  worship  of  the 
Moon 4  was  cultivated  by  the  original  inhabitants  of  the  country  ; 
and  there  cannot  be  pointed  out  a  truth  connected  with  their 
history  more  capable  of  demonstration,  than  that  the  Dea  Syria 
who  obtained,  by  her  ten  thousand  appellations,  the  epithet  of 
Myrionymus,  with  all  the  fabulous  history  of  her  favourite  Adonis, 
or  the  Earth",  was,  under  all  its  modifications,  but  so  many 
testimonies  of  this  antient  worship6.  The  numerous  instances  of 
popular  Pagan  superstitions  retained  in  the  Greek  and  Roman 
churches  have  been  often  before  noticed ;  these  were  made  sub- 
servient to  the  propagation  of  a  more  enlightened  system  of  faith  : 
and  as,  in  our  reformed  religion,  a  part  of  the  Liturgy  of  the  Roman 
Church  has  been  preserved,  so  it  may  be  said  that  certain  of  the 

external 


807 


(4)  It  was  from  the  Phoenicians  and  Canaanites  that  the  Israelites  learned  this  worship.  "  The 
children  gather  wood,  and  the  fathers  kindle  the  fire,  and  the  women  knead  their  dough,  to  make 
cakes  to  the  Queen  of  Heaven."  {Jerem.  vii.  8.)  The  Canaanites  and  Phoenicians  called  the 
moon  Askteroth,  Astarte,  Baaltis.  Lucian  expressly  says,  that  Astarte,  that  is  to  say,  the  f'enxis  of 
Libanus,  or  Queen  of  Heaven,  was  the  moon;  and  Herodotus  {lib.  b.)  calls  Asturte,  'Aa-r^d^n  ; 
as  it  is  said  by  Herodian  that  the  Carthaginians  did,  who  affirmed  her  to  he  the  same  with  the 
moon.  This  deity  was  worshipped  by  the  Philistines  in  the  shape  of  a  fish.  Lucian  Dea  Syria) 
saw  the  image  in  Phoenicia  ;  the  upper  part  resembling  a  woman ;  the  lower,  a  fish.  And  to 
this  Horace  has  been  supposed  to  allude  in  the  following  line : 

Desinit  in  piscem  mulier  formosa  superne." 

(5)  Macrob.  Saturn,  lib.  i.  cap.  21. 

(G)  See  particularly  the  Harpocrates  of  Cuper,  {p.  108.  Utrecht,  1687.)  and  the  figure  of  IsisA 
as  engraved  by  him. 


\*m 


808  APPENDIX,    N°  II 

external  forms,  and  even  of  the  prayers1,  in  use  among  the 
Heathens,  are  still  retained.  A  Roman-catholic,  however,  who 
prostrates  himself  before  a  wooden  crucifix,  or  a  member  of  the 
Greek  Church  making  the  sign  of  the  cross,  will  not  readily 
admit  that  the  figure  of  a  cross  was  used,  as  a  symbol  of 
resurrection  from  the  dead,  long  before  the  sufferings  of  our 
Saviour.  Like  Albericus  examining  the  writings  of  Abelard  *, 
either  of  them  reading  such  an  assertion  would  deem  it  pregnant 
with  the  most  noxious  heresy  ;  and  yet,  exactly  after  the  manner 
in  which  Abelard  refuted  the  charge  of  Albericus  3,  we  have  only 
to  open  a  volume  of  one  of  their  own  Fathers,  to  prove  that 
this  is  indisputably  true 4.  The  enemies  of  Christianity  long  ago 
endeavoured  to  vilify  and  blaspheme  its  rites,  by  pointing  out  a 
resemblance  between  the  history  of  our  Saviour's  death  and  resur- 
rection, and  the  annual  lamentations  for  Adonis,  followed  by  the 
joy  expressed  for  his  supposed  resuscitation5.      But   the    fable   of 

Adonis, 


(1)  The  Ghospody  Pomilui  of  the  Russians,  and  "  Lord  have  mercy  upon  us,"  as  it  stands  in 
our  Liturgy,  was  a  part  of  the  Pagan  Litany.  (See  Young's  Diss.  8{c.  Vol.  W.p.l.  Land.  1734.) 
Vossius  says,  that  Ku^t  ixititw  was  an  usual  form  of  prayer  among  the  Gentiles,  as  well  as  Jews. 
So  Arrian,  {Epict.  lib.  ii.  c.  7.)  T«»  ©e»v  \*iK*\ovpiiH  hlptfa  avrS  Kioit  Ixitiiw  "  Culling  upon  God, 
we  pray,  Lord  have  mercy  upon  us." 

(2)  See  that  most  entertaining  History  of  the  Lives  of  Abelard  and  Heloise,  as  compiled  from 
original  documents  by  the  Rev.  Joseph  Berrington,  printed  at  Birmingham  in  1787.  The  passage 
alluded  to  is  in  page  136,  and  contains  a  salutary  lesson  for  bigots  of  every  sect  and  denomination. 
Mr.  Berrington's  Work  perhaps  comprises  the  most  able  survey  extant,  and  certainly  the  most 
amusing,  of  the  state  of  literature  in  the  eleventh  and  twelfth  centuries. 

(3)  See  Berrington's  Hist,  of  the  Lives  of  Abelard  and  Heloise,  p.  137. 

(4)  Socrates  Scholasticus,  lib.  v.  cap.  17.  Camb.  1720.' — See  "  Greek  Marbles,"  p.  78.  The 
learned  author  of  "  An  Historical  Dissertation  on  Idolatrous  Corruptions,"  [Vol.  II.  p.  58.  Note. 
Lond.  1734.)  says  the  Cross  in  Egyptian  Hieroglyphics  denoted  Life  Eternal ;  and  that  upon 
this  extraordinary  coincidence  between  a  Pagan  symbol  and  the  instrument  of  ounSaviour's  death, 
many  of  the  Gentiles  were  converted  to  Christianity.  See  Ruffinus,  lib.  ii.  c.  2,9.  Sozomen.  Hist. 
Eccles.  lib.  vii.  c.  15. 

(5)  Julius  Firmicus  de  Errore  Profan.  Relig,  &c. 


APPENDIX,    No  II. 

Adonis,  although  afterwards  the  foundation  of  detestable  and 
degrading  superstition,  originally  typified  nothing  more  than  the 
vicissitudes  of  winter  and  summer6,  —  the  seeming  death  and 
revival  of  Nature  ;  whence  a  doubtful  hope  was  occasionally 
excited  of  the  soul's  existence  in  a  future  state.  This  expectation 
so  naturally  results  from  the  contemplation  of  such  phenomena, 
that  traces  of  it  may  be  discerned  among  the  most  barbarous 
nations7.  Some  glimmering,  therefore,  of  a  brighter  light,  which 
was  afterwards  fully  manifested  in  the  Gospel,  must  naturally  have 
occasioned  indistinct  traces  of  similitude  between  the  Heathen 
mythology  and  the  Christian  dispensation.  It  was  owing  to  such 
coincidence  that  St.  Paul  declared  to  the  Athenians,  "  That  God 
whom  ye  ignorantly  worship,  him  declare  I  unto  you."  In  viewing 
these  occasional  resemblances,  whether  or  not  we  be  permitted  to 
investigate  their  causes,  the  fact  of  their  existence  is  indisputable. 
No  one,  duly  considering  the  solemnities  observed  at  Easter  by 
the  antient  Saxons  prior  to  the  introduction  of  Christianity 8,  or 
viewing  at  this  day  the  ceremony  of  the  Greek  Church,  par- 
ticularly that  of  Moscow,  when  the  priests  are  occupied  in 
searching  for  the  supposed  body  of  the  Messiah  g,  previous  to  a 
declaration  which  ushers  in  the  festivities  of  a  whole  empire,  but 
must  call  to  mind  the  circumstance  related  by  Gregory  Nazianzen, 
of  the  manner  in  which  popular  Pagan  rites  were  made  subservient 

to 


80.9 


(6)  Macrob.  Saturn,  lib.  i.  cap.  21.     L.Bat.  1670. 

(7)  Beattie  enables  his  Minstrel  to  derive  a  hope  of  the  soul's  immortality,  from  observing  the 
vicissitude  of  the  Seasons  ; 

"  Shall  I  be  left  abandoned  in  the  dust, 

When  Fate,  relenting,  lets  the  flower  revive  ?" 

Must,  xxvii.  p.  16.   Edin.  1807. 

(8)  See  Gale's  Court  of  the  Gentiles,  Book  ii.  ch.  2. 

(9)  See  Vol.  I.  of  these  Travels,  Chap.  IV.  p.  56.  second  edit. 

VOL.  III.  5  L 


riJMJ*..! 


810  APPENDIX,    NeII. 

to  the  advancement  of  the  Christian  faith  ' ;  as  well  as  the 
remarkable  fact2,  that,  on  a  certain  night  in  the  same  season  of 
the  year,  the  Heathens  similarly  laid  an  image  in  their  temples,  and, 
after  numbering  their  lamentations  according  to  the  beads  upon  a 
string,  thus  ended  the  appointed  days  of  privation  and  sorroiv ;  that 
then  light  was  brought  in ;  and  the  high-priest  delivered  an  expression, 
similar  in  its  import,  of  resuscitation  and  deliverance  from  grief. 
In  tracing  such  resemblances,  the  celebrated  Middleton,  writing 
from  Rome,  observes,  "  We  see  the  people  worshipping,  at  this 
day,  in  the  same  temples  —  at  the  same  altars, —  sometimes  the 
same  images — and  always  with  the  same  ceremonieu — as  the  old 
Romans." 


(1)  Orat.  de  Vita  Greg.  Thaum.  torn.  III.  p.5?4. 

(2)  Vid.  Jul.  Finnic,  de  Errore  Profan.  Relig.  &e. 


APPENDIX,    N°HI. 


811 


N°  III. 


THE  following   CATALOGUE   is  inserted  by   way  of  SURVEY  of  the  PRESENT  STATE  of  LITERATURE 
in  GREECE.     It  contains  a  LIST  of  BOOKS  in  the  HELLENIC  and  in  the  ROMAIC  LANGUAGES,  printed 
at  VENICE  at  the  Press  o/"THEODOSIUS  of  YANINA,  with  their  Prices  in  Venetian  Liri  and  Soldi. 
The  Number  has  of  course  augmented  since  the  period  of  the  Author's  return  to  England. 


KATAAOTOS 
TftN    BIBAIftN    'EAAHNIKflN    TE    KAI    KOINftN 

Trig  Tviroygcuptug  rx  Yldvov  Qsodotriov  ra  gf  'Iwc&vvivuv. 


'Enrlpn  aafi'.  1802.     <ptfi.  15. 


Lir.  Sol. 

'AlTASMATAPION  fxtya,    rjroi  'EicXoyij  h 

tov  Ei/voXoytoi/.  fierd  v<?ac  Trpoadijicnc  3  •     0 

■  —  '  EtS/OOV  /HlKjOOV 1-10 

1  AKoXovdla  tov  '  Ay  tov  Xf/yoaXa'jU7roi/4    ...  1-10 

F,ripa  dyiov  NiKoXdov 1.0 

— —    Erfyoa  dyiov  Mtyrj^X 1.0 

'Eripa  ro)v  uyiG>vhlapTvpo)vTi{iodtov, 

Kal  Muvpac 1.0 

■  'Y^ripa    rov  iv  'Ayiote    Uarpoc    r/pnov 

Aovdrov 1.0 

'J&ripa  tov  dyiov  Atovvcrlov   liriaKOTrov 

Atytvi/c 1  .  10 

■■       'Err'|0a  tov  otriov  Kal  deotyopov  TlaTpdz 

j/juwi'  ®EO(j>dvov<;  tov  viov 1-0 

'JLTipa    Ttjs    6aia<;    M.t)Tpde  i)f.io>y    Qeo- 

cw'yoac  rrje  Ba<T<\/<T<T7/c 1-0 

AifTuirov   Btoc,    KOt    Mi/0ot   '¥JX\ijvi<rrl  /nerd 
7rpo(rd}jt;r}i;  rr/c   XpqrrTonOciai;  * Avraviov 

tov  ¥>v(avTiov 3-0 

"Erepot;   fierd  Kal   rov  tytcxppdffrov   .   .  3-10 

'AX^aVfya  tx  Mcikeoovos  itTTopta  Ctd  ari-vuiv  \    .    0 

'AfxapTw\uv  1o)T)]pt'a,  veorvirodty 7-0 

'Afitivra  tov  Tdaov  'Vpayuctia 2-0 

'Apiayiov  we  pi  ctayopuv  Ai&oiy 1  .  10 


Lir.  Sol. 

"Avdos    "SLapiTuv    NcW    etc    'IraXiKtjv,    Kal 

drrXny  'Fujia'iKtjv   <ppdo~iv 1-10 

'Av0o\o'y(oj',    veotvttuQev  SiopBoop-ivov  etc  rd 

eXXitt)}  tiov  uXXoiy  tvwwv 16  •     0 

'AdpctTOc  rUXf/zoc •'  6-0 

^  AirnrrrnXoc  venrvirctBtlc,  Kal  KoXd  cepicvoc  6tC 

ttet'CI  <f>ivog 6-10 

"Erf^oc  opStvdpiot; 5-10 

'AiroXXcSrtos  Tv'^ooi/  Sid  arivuv  dirXuy    ...  0-10 

Btoc  AiauTrov  etc  dirXnv  cppdaiv 0-15 

Bo<n:o;roi/Xa  i)  evp,op<pn 0-4 

Boor^-o(ooua^/o   Sid  GTiyuv  koivwv  Trepiypd- 

<j>OVaa   TO   KttTd(TT£VOV  Tlf<:¥^b)V<TTaVTlVOV- 

7ToXtur; 2  •      0 

Tai'Sdpov,  Avkov,  Kal  'AXovttovc.    Kal   ovov 

rpoeffTWTOi;   ctt]yno-i<;    doTiia 0-4 

TeuTroviKdvyOirov  Tepti^ti  cpfxrjVEtaQ  Statydpov  3-  0 
Vewpytov  Ae^ikov  to  TsTpdyXoxraov,  vsacrrl 
rinrodkv,  i)vtlnp.Evov  p.1  Xi£us  kuI  <j>avae 
pidXiara  etc  rd  u-erd  tov  «\0a  ypdp- 
p:ara.  irXovTiop.ivov  ue  rac  ttXeov  aVay- 
Kaiag,  Iffropiac  Kal  juvdoXoyiac  etc  eice*- 
vas  rat  Xt£u<;  ottov  dvtjKOvat,  npos  rrepiv- 


^^m 


■H  ■    ■ 


812 


APPENDIX,     N°  III. 


Lit.  Sol. 


aoripav  KardXei^iy  tov  vo^fxaroq  rrjc 
Xe^eoxs,  fie  rcte  ovopaaias  tuv  Beuv,  pc 
Trapaceiy/xara,  Kara  vaaav  \ifyy,  Kal 
pit  ctXXovc  Tivdt;  KaXuwi(7piov<;  yuph  trvy- 

Kardfiaaiv SO  .    0 

r\i£ovvio<:  Trcpl  dpid/ii>)riKT]r  fiedocov   ....     3-10 
VvufiiKci  rraXaio>y  tlvuv  ^iXoao^ov  tig  dirXijv 

typdaiv 1  .  10 

VvufioXoyiKou  r pvaoXupd,   veaxrrl  TVTrwdev  .     0-15 
1  pa /.i /licit ik i]  tov  Aetata pLMs  fiBTa  7rpocrdiJKr]c 

ical  KaXXu)7no-p,vu  ctai/naTOs 4  •     0 

rpa/j./LiaTiK)}'FjXXr]yiK7j,AyTo>piovK.aTr}<j>6pov      3  .  10 

VpafifxaTiKt}  Vxaaapiuvot; 3  .     Q 

Tpafj.p.aTiKr)Qno^oipovTaCij  Bt/3Xta  Ttcrtrapa     3.     0 

r pa/J,fXaTlK7)     TUV    (j)tXoarO(j>tKCJV    'JL7Tl(TTt}p.C)V   j| 

ovvTopoc,  'AvdXvtTis  rrjs  rretpafictTticrjc 
vtfaTepat;  (piXoaotpiac  (Tvyypatyuaa  psy 
irapd  tov  "AyyeXov  Mtyiaprjy  Maprtvov, 
fxtTtvtydutra  £c  eU  ti)v  Kotvrjy  tu>v  EX- 
Xr\vu)v  AidXsKToy  napd  AvBipov  ya£ij 
tov  dpy^ipavCpiTOV  tic  2  Topovs.  YSiIvvtj, 
J799-^'XWC  GuyKardfiaoiv       .     .      .      .    16  .     0 

lltUKOytKOV.    VSGHTTl  twoiSsv  2-0 

''ETtpoy  flC  7T£T%1 3-0 

klUKpHTK,    ei<J   TO  TTOUjpa   TOV  HoXTCp.        .        .        .3.0 

AicatrfcraX/a  2i.pnmaviKTf 0  ■     4 

bidaaKaXia  Trcpl  tov  Qpovov  Trjs  'Poipt/ij  Kara 

Ttjy  yyupr/v  Tuy  Q>pavT(c%iov.    Top.  a.  .      3-0 
'ETtpa    Ttjc    TaXXiKayiKr/r   TLicK\ljor(aG, 

To>.  /? ( 3.0 

\i))y}](Ti'j  AXi'^dyBpov  tov  Mafct^ovoc,  Tepi- 
iyovaa  tov  filov,  tov<;  TroXcpov;,  rd  Kar- 
opdaipaTa,  Kal  Toy  Qdvarov  uvtov      .     .      1  .  10 

Sioycyovs  AatpTiov  irtpl  TSiav,  AoypaTuv  Kal 
AirotyQtypdTuv  tiov  iv  (jtiXoaooiq  evdoKi- 
/u\(jdvTiov  BtjSXta  ^c'fca.  'EvtTirjai  1798 
etc  oyhoov  h*iyv>s  crvyKctTdficKriv      .       .      16  •     0 

'Efidopacapta,  ?'Jtoi  'Eviai/Vioc  Bt/3Xoc,  irtpi- 
tyovaa  oXtjy  ti)v  aKoXoudiav  tov  yjoo- 
vov,  ijyovv  to  UpoXoyioy,  to  ^VaXrt'i- 
piov,  Tr/yTiapatcXt/TiKtfy,  to  'AvBoXdyioy, 
to  Tptfttov,  to  lleyTTjKOcr-dploy,  rat; 
rptlt  AsiTovpyia*;,  Kal  rd  dvayKaiOTspa 
tov  Ei/^oXoytou 70-0 


>u  >  /                       v  Lir-  So1- 

b.KXoytov,   vtioaTi  Tvirwdcv 8-0 

l£iip(l0X6yiQV,     VEOHTTl   TVTTudiv 3-0 

'EopToXoytoy,    veugtI  Tv^udey 4-0 

'Emo-ToXapiov  pie  fiiav  irpoo-BrjKtjy  TroXXd  Trcpi- 

epyoy,   Kal  ■^pifffip.ov  3-0 

EiiriaToXal  cid  CTiyuy  dwXuv  Kara  Ttj^  v7TEpi\- 

(j>ayiac 0.12 

Epp:t]ve(aiF,vcrifhi<;V€plMip>jtTEO]?'KpiarTov       5.     0 

KpUTOKpiTOf,     VSOHTTl   TVTTOlQcU  .         .  .  .3-10 

'EpiMpfXi]  Tpaypfita  did  aTiyiov       .       ...      1  .  10 
'EXcy^ot  KaTa  ddtoy  Kal  dvoo-tfiwy  u<;  Top.. 

Mo 10-0 

EiVtrrudsioVf    to    Kad'  vfrp,tjyt]v  Kal   vupeyiav 

Spdpa 8.0 

'Ey\/£(pidioy  rfji  ray  £uuv  oiKOvofiiae   .      .      .      2-0 
Eyayyr'Xtov,  $iopQup,£vov  etc  woXXa  IXXiiri), 
p.c  rd  Kavovia  tov  TlaTpidpyov  '\tpo- 
0-oXvp.uv  ^.pvadvBov  tov  Nora^oa      .      .   24  •     0 

''ETspoy  ^pvcroy 32  .     0 

EvyoXoytoy  p,cya  vEOTWuQtv 16-0 

Zt]Trjp.aTa  cidtyopa   QeoXoyiKa  tov  p.tydXov 

'Adavaaiov 0  •     10 

H  'E£rf/3t/3Xoe  (etc  Koivt}y  yXuaaav  juera- 
<j>pa6eicra)  Kuvtrravrivov  AppievoTroXov. 
Td  vvv  av^vydticra  p.erd  AttovtoXikmv, 
ZvyoBiKojy,    Kal  WaTipiKiZv  \LavovMv   .    .    18  .     0 

WBiK}}  ir?pir\yi]aii;  Kvpov  (iaaiXUu;  Xlepauv    .      8-0 

QtaTpov  HoXitikov  pteTuyXoiTTurdh'  ck  tiJij 
Aarivicot;  etc  Trjy  koivt)v  Ata'Xf/crov  7rapd 
tov  vxptjXuTdTov  avdivTov  OvyKpojjXa- 
■%(ac  NticoXa'oiy  MavpoKoSpdrov.  TpiT)) 
fiiopdoip.e'vTi  cKcoiric  Yicyoriq   civox;   avy- 

KaTafiaaiy  Ttva 15-0 

(dsMpia  'X.ptffTtaytK)} 1  .  10 

&i](7avpoc  Aafia(TKt}vov  viOTviroiBeU       ...     8  •     0 
Qeo(j>pdaTov  'HOikoI  ^apaKTtjpe?  etKOOvreaffapW  0  •  10- 
QeocpvXaKTOv    l&ovXyapiat,    ipp-t/yeia    luj    rd 
Ttaaapa    Tepd   EvayycXia    yupic    Tiva 

KarejSaapioy 30  •     0 

(r)eoTOKapiov 3.0 

Qvaia  tov  Afipadji  ctd  oti^uv  dwXuv  .     0-10 

'i c iff  tov  u\>jOov<;  MiTai'oivTOi;       .       ...      3  .     0 


APPEND 

Lir.    Sol. 

'ItT-opia  rrjg  Vtv^avrl^og  and  Kritrtug  Kdirp,ov 
eug  rove  ttrydrovg  Katpovg  ptag,   tig  To- 
fxovg  r'.  (x«/0«t  ovyKaTeLfiaiTiv)      .      .      .   60  •     0 

'Itropia  TioX£ptov  dvapttTa^v  'Vuaoiag,   Kal 

rrjg  'OdwpiaviKtjg  TLdprag,  tig  Tdpiovg  c£    21  •     0 

'JtT'opia  'E-KKXijaiacrriK}]  MeXeriov  tig  dirXtjy 

<f>pd(W'  tig  Tdfiovg  rptTg 60  •    0 

'la'opia    r}dtKt)  BtXtacrapiov  'Ap^KTTpartjyov 

tov  pttydXov  avroKpdropog       ....      6  •     0 

'lar-opia  UravpaKt  c)id  oriyuv  drrXtov     .    .      .      0-4 

Itr-opia  rrjg  licoT&'ae 0-4 

Karavvfys  MTrovviaXrj  did  ariy^uv     ...      .      0  •  10 
YLup-uhla.  rov  Y^dpXov  ToXhdvri,  »/  OToyaoTiKr} 
Kal  upaia  \ypa  pttra^paaQtiaa  tig  tijv 

t]p,tTtpav  hidXiKTOV 3-10 

'lEirepa,  'AptTrj  r»j<,  Uap.£Xag       .      .     .3-0 

'JLripa,   ktydvtat  Yievtpag  Kal  vvp.<j)t]g      3  •  10 

KopvtjXtov  NtVwroc  jrtpl  ruv  ilpyuv  r\ytptd- 

vuv  'EXXtjvuv  Kal  'Piopauov     ....     6  •     0 

Tov  avTov  pit  etKovac  c<y«c  avyKara- 

fiaotv 7-0 

A(£ck6v  MtKpdv 3-0 

\6yoi  YvvoxficXcig  tig  to  'EuTtjptov  Tiddog  \  .  10 

Ai^ikov  BXrf^ow  X'-'plv  (TvyKaTdfiaaiv    .    .    .  24  •    0 
Adyoi  TLavriyvpiKol,  eh  'EyKupttov  Statpdpuv 

'Aytoiv 2-0 

AciTOvpyiKOv  fi'c  LirjKos  Kal  yapaKTrjpa  p.£yav  12-     0 
AnTOvpyiat    at    Tptig,   XpurroaTd/uov,  Ba<rt- 
Xtt'ov,   Kal   »/  lipotiytaa-Liht)  p:c  EtVovo- 

ypa<j>iag,  tig  ttbt^I 3-10 

''Etc pat  Big  yapTOv 1  .  10 

Mapyaptrat  tov  H-pvaotTTOLiov 8-0 

WLapicdSas  tOTopta  ctd  (tti\uv 0  •     6 

Mi/vata  tu  dtoltKa,  vtOTvn-uQtvTa  pit  npoaftr)- 

KVV     TOV     Tv7TlKOV,      tig     Kd0E     COpTrjV  TOV 

■ypdvov  tKtt  dirov  Ypr)(rtLi{v{i.  Kal  aXXat 
7roXXal  diopdiocreig  tig  Tovg  tipp.ovg,  ica- 
rafiao-iag,  Kal  rjyovg,  ia(paXp,iva  etgrovg 

irpwTovg  rv-KOvg ]44  •     0 

MrjvtdT))  Aica-^al,  vtoTvirudtivai    .      .      .      .      8.0 

Mr)vo\6yiov  tov  tTovg  1802 0-3 

\lvBot  Alffdrrov,  tig  aTXrjy  typdotv       .     .     .      0-15 
NvdoXoyiKOv  tjdiKOTroXiTiKoy  rrjs  YIvX7rdi£ag   .6-0 


J  X,     N°  III. 


813 


Lir.  Sol. 
lAupiug  'IffTopta 1  •     0 

MvOoXoyiKov    'ApafitKov  tfrot    i^aKoXoifdrjaig 

rijg  ya\t]Lidg  alg  T6p,ovg  Tlaoapag     .      .22-0 

NavTtKtjg  6eb>pr)TtK0-7rpaKTiKt}g  'Epptyjvei'a,  Ik 
rfjg  'IraXtfcr/c  StaXeKTOv  tig  tt\v  tuv  Tpai- 
Ktov  Kotvrjv  fxeTayXtoTTtadstira  Kal  Tavvv 
eTtt  1 802.  wpwTov  TVTotg  eK^odBtira  6/xov 
pttTa  tgjv  piadrjpiaTiKbJV  wtvaKuv  etg  Sva 
Top.ovg 

Nioc  Tlapd()ei(Tog,   veoffrl  TV7rupt£vog     .     .      .      8-0 

Bevo(j>ojvTog  rd  ou£6p.eva  pte  tiKovoypatyiag  sig 
ricroapag  Tdptovg  etg  fypavT&Ze  Y^yOtc 
avyKardfiaatv 44  •    0 


'OKTit>t)vog  KaXd  leptivi] 1.2 

OIkoi  TTjg  QeordKov,  'FjXXtjvtKa,  Kal  dn-Xd  .    .      0-10 
'Opdodotyg  'OpioXoyia 6-0 


Hat^ayuy/a  p.i  irpoardrJKatg  "£pr\otptatg      .      .0-2 

'Eirtpa  pttydXi]  p,tTa  Sia<f>dpovg  KaXXu- 

mapiovg 0-10 

TlatSayuydg  $    Ypap.ptaTtKrj  irpaKTtKrj  sv  Bt- 

£ vvtj  1800  Siyo>g  avyKardflaatv     .      .      .10-0 

TlapaKXt)TiKT)  veaffTt  TvrruQetaa,  Kal  tTrtpteXug 

ctopQutQeicra 20  •     0 

Y\svTr}KO(TTaptov  wapoptoiug 12  .     0 

Tltptypaibrj  'ltpd  tov  1.ivq"Opovgt  pisrd  Trjg 
'AKoXovdiag  r>/c  dyiag  AiKareptvrig,  Kal 
h£puv  Trdvv  d(bcXip.o>v  dtTjyijaetov  .     2  .  10 

Tlepl  Ttjg  dtaTptfirjg  tig  'JLvtTtav  tuv  Kw^w^rwv 
rrjg  '  ApKTOv  tov  pteydXov  AovKog  rrjg 
'Puacrt'ag 0  .  10 

YltTpa  ^.KayldXov  t)TOt  £ta<rd<f>r)Otg  rue  %t\p- 
vtuv  Totv  h^vu  'EkKX^fftwi/  'AvaToXtKtjg 
Kal  AvTtKrjg,  (Tvyypatjxicra  rrapd  SjXtov 
Mrfvidrri 8-0 

TIoXtp:tKT)g  Tf'^vf/e  tpp.tjveia  p.trd  ttjv  Tafyv 

tuv  OTpartvptdTuv  r»/<,-  peydXtjg  'Paxrcrtag     3-     0 

TfpaKTtKa,  I/rot  Titptypatyi)  ruv  Wpdfywv 
->/c  UkiulrrjSf  ottov  tytvtv  tig  Rapaofii'av 
Ttjg  YloXwvtag  Kara  rovg  1768      .      .      .     0-10 

YipoaKw^Taptov  rr/c  jjamXiKrjg  Kal  atflafffxtag 
Movijg  Ti]g  pityt'orrjg  dyiag  Aavpag,  rov 
dyiov  'ABaraariov  tov  iv  Tp"Ada  \  .    0 


cjffir.:.; 


■  if*+tf 


^■n 


814 


APPENDIX,    N*  III 


Lir.     Sol. 

"Lrravos 0  .  10 

ZrtvoXoy/a,  vcutrrl  rvnuQuaa  ptrd  irpocrdtjuqc 
rtvog  avayica/ac  rov 'YLrnrtpivov,  rov  Op- 
dpov,  Kai  rye  Attrovpyiag      .       ...     0  •     5 
IvXXeirovpyiKOv  p,£rd  rivoe  viae  7rpoadrJK)]g   .0-6 
^Lvvrina  rov  <$>iXoa6(j>ov  'laropia       .       ...1.0 
^Lvvraypdriov  Nf'ov,  wEpiiyov  rr\v  trpiwovaav 
avro)    'A.Ko\ov6t'av     TlapaKXtjriKrjv    rtjs 
oXr/g  'E/3£o/ia'£oe.      Ni/v  ro   vpcorov  rv- 
7ru>dsv,  Kal  dicptfius  Siopdodiv       .       .      .      1  .  10 
J,vvraypdriov  ®£oXoyiKt}s  wai^Etae       .      .      .   16  .     0 
*Zvvo\pi<;,   vtuarl   rvTruQu.<ra  ptrd  Trpovdijicijc, 

Kat  rivuv  evyuv  tv  ra  riXti      .      .      .      .      2-10 

'Er^oa  Ofxoia  yjovo-opivt)       .       ...     3  •  10 

^ttpd  ruv  dyi'uv  Ylaripuv  tig  rov  'Igj/3       .     .   10  •     0 
^.vptuv  0£<r<7aXov/)C>7c  tig  dirkrfv  <f)pd<riv  \vpis 

avyKardfiamv 32  .    0 

Ta  dxavra  w patented  rwvToriKuv  ical  OIkov- 

fiEviKuv  dyi'covYvvoBojv,  tlglLopovg  (Situ   124  •     0 

Tapi<ba  pt  rate  Tldaraig 0-15 

TtrpatvdyytXov  tig  yapatcrijpa  piyav,  ptrd 
irpotTdtjnic  r>/c  'AjroKaXi/i//£6>c,  xal  piTJi- 
vaica  tmv  pr\Tv>v  rrjg  TlaXaidg,  rd  ovola 
svpiaKovrat  tig  rd  riaaapa  EvayyiXta 
Kat  'An-o/co/Xi/^tJ' 7  •     0 

'JLrtpov  sit  \apaKT7jpa  ptiepov  Bid  iy- 

koXttiov 7-0 

—— —  '"Ertpov  tig  drJKrjp  xpvaovv      .      .      .      .   10  •     0 


Tpayad'iai    rov   TLirpov    hltraffracriov.    vvv 
•npurov  ptratypacrdclaai  tig  rrjv  yptripav 
BidXtKrov.  tig  T6povg  Bvu     .       .      .      .4-10 

TplddlOV    VEOTVTTudcV 22-0 


XpiffrtaviKt]  QtoXoyia    rov     QtoXoyiKurdrov 

MtjrpoiroXirov  Mo<r»c/3ac  TiXdrwvog     .     .     8 

jLpovoypd(f>og  ptrd  TrpocrdtjKtjg  viag  ruvTovp- 

kuv  BckhXeW 8 

X/)»j(Tro>/0fia'EXX>;i'to'ri  ptraypaffdtiaa  tic  rrjg 
Aarivicog  tig  rrjv  'FjXXrjvtKrjv  (puvtjv  rrapd 
yA.vruviov  Hv^avrtov  rj  ndvv  u>§tXipu>- 
rdrr\  npog  ZiaKdap-^aiv  t]do>v  ruv  NfW .      1 

^K.pv(Tb)rrt)yt)'Io)dvuovH.pv(Too'r6pov.  vvv  irpu-. 
tov  ptrafpaadtiaa 32 


^VaXrtjpiov  piya  vtorvirudtv  tig  yjupaKnipa 

piyav 4  •  10 

— —  ''ILrtpov  piKpdv 1-2 

''Kr£pov  'EityjyrjTOv  rov  'Ayairlov      .      .  8  •     0 

'SlpoXoyiov  (jketo,  jXErd  Bia(p6puv  KaXXwiricr- 

pdr'ov G  •  10 

"FjTEpov  ypverupivov 8       0 

SlpoXoyiov  piya,  rd  X£y6p£vov  rrj<;  BXav/ac  10  •    0 
"Etrtpov  opotov  yjpvaup.ivov       .       .       .13-0 


APPENDIX,    N'lV. 


815 


N°IV. 


TEMPERATURE  OF  THE  ATMOSPHERE, 


ACCORDING   TO 


DIURNAL    OBSERVATION; 


WITH 

A  CORRESPONDING  STATEMENT  OF  TEMPERATURE  IN  ENGLAND 

DURING   THE    SAME   PERIOD: 

The  latter  being  extracted  from  a  Register  kept  in  the  Apartments  of  the  Royal  Society 
of  London,  by  Order  of  the  President  and  Council. 


N.B-   The    Observations  during  the  Journey  were  always  made  at  Noon;  those  of  the  Royal  Society 
at  Two  P.  M  ;  and  both  on  the  Scale  of  Fahrenheit. 


Observation  on  the 

Observation  in  London 

■Scale  of  Fahrenheit. 

Where  made. 

When  made. 

on  the  same  Day. 

82° 

Acre,  ir 

i  Syria,  N.  lat.  32°.  57'. 

July  17. 

66 

82 

Acre, 

July  18. 

69 

8a 

Acre, 

July  19. 

77 

83 

Acre, 

July  20. 

73 

82 

At  sea, 

off  Mount  Carmel, 

July  21. 

79 

81 

At  sea, 

N.  lat.  33°.  24'. 

July  22. 

79 

81 

At  sea, 

N.  lat.  33°.  48'. 

July  23. 

72 

81 

'At  sea, 

N.  lat.  33°.  40'. 

July  24. 

69 

81 

At  sea, 

N.  lat.  33°.    &. 

July  25. 

71 

81 

At  sea, 

N.  lat.  31°.  32'. 

July  26. 

76 

81 

At  sea, 

N.  lat.  31°.  47'. 

July  27. 

72 

so 

At  sea, 

N.  lat.  31°.  5of. 

July  28. 

68 

81 

At  sea, 

N.  lat.  32°.   4'. 

July  29. 

66 

iK^ritTrtX.?^; 


816 


APPENDIX,    N"1V. 


Observation  on  the 
Scale  of  Fahrenheit. 

Where  made. 

When  made. 

Observation  in  Londm. 
on  the  same  Day. 

81 

At  sea,     N.  lat.  32°. 

July  30. 

74 

82 

At  sea,     N.  lat.  3  i°.  40'. 

July  31. 

72 

81 

c  Off  the  mouth  of  the  Nile,  -j 
1          N.  lat.  31°.  40'.            J 

August     1. 

74 

82 

Aboukir  bay, 

August     2. 

74 

83 

Aboukir  bay, 

August     3. 

63 

83 

Aboukir  bay, 

August     4. 

71 

83 

Aboukir  bay, 

August     5 . 

68 

83 

Aboukir  bay, 

August     6. 

72 

83 

Aboukir  bay, 

August     7- 

76 

83 

Aboukir  bay, 

August     8. 

73 

85 

Rosetta, 

August     9. 

68 

92 

Upon  the  Nile,  near  Metubis,    - 

August  10. 

74 

89 

Upon  the  Nile,  near  EI-Buredgiat, 

August  11, 

76 

89 

Upon  the  Nile,  near  Bulac, 

August  12. 

76 

90 

Upon  the  Nile,  near  Bulac, 

August  13. 

70 

91 

Upon  the  Nile,  near  Bulac, 

August  14. 

71 

91 

Cairo, 

August  15. 

73 

91 

Cairo, 

August  16. 

70 

93 

Cairo, 

August  17. 

75 

92 

Cai'ro, 

August  18. 

73 

91 

Cairo, 

August  19. 

74 

91 

Cairo, 

August  20. 

79 

91 

Cairo, 

August  21. 

71 

90 

Desert  east  of  the  Nile, 

August  22. 

71 

85 


{Pinnacle  of  the  Greater  Pyramid  1  ^ 
of  Djiza,  J 


91 

Cairo, 

92 

Cairo, 

90 

Cairo, 

92 

Cairo, 

87 

Cairo, 

87 

Cairo, 

86 

Cairo, 

87 

Cairo, 

69 


August  24. 

73 

August  25. 

71 

August  26. 

69 

August  27. 

73 

August  28. 

74 

August  29. 

76 

August  30. 

76 

August  31. 

68 

APPENDIX,   No  IV. 


817 


Observation  on  the 

Observation  in  London 

Scale  of  Fahrenheit. 

Where  made. 

When  made. 

on  the  same  Day. 

89 

Cairo, 

September    1 . 

68 

90 

Cai'ro, 

September    2. 

66 

83 

Upon  the  Nile,  near  Amus, 

September    3 . 

69 

84 

Upon  the  Nile,  near 

Machallet, 

September    4. 

66 

84 

Rosetta, 

September    5. 

73 

82 

Rosetta. 

September    6. 

69 

81 

Rosetta, 

September  7. 

66 

81 

Aboukir  bay, 

September    8. 

68 

81 

Aboukir  bay, 

September    Q. 

70 

82 

Alexandria, 

September  10. 

66 

83 

Alexandria, 

September  11. 

65 

82 

Alexandria, 

September  12. 

62 

,81 

Alexandria, 

September  13. 

65 

81 

Alexandria, 

September  14. 

66 

82 

Alexandria, 

September  15. 

70 

81 

Alexandria, 

September  16. 

68 

81 

Alexandria, 

September  17. 

68 

76 

Aboukir  bay, 

September  18. 

71 

76 

Aboukir  bay, 

September  19 

69 

78 

Aboukir  bay, 

September  20. 

67 

80 

Aboukir  bay, 

September  21. 

64 

80 

Aboukir  bay, 

September  22. 

56 

78. 

At  sea,  off  the  mouths  of  the  Nile 

,  September  23. 

63 

78 

At  sea,  off  the  mouths  of  the  Nile. 

September  24. 

61 

78 

At  sea,     N.  lat.  33°. 

30'. 

September  25. 

59 

78 

At  sea,     N.  lat.  34°. 

50'. 

September  26. 

61 

78 

At  sea,     N.  lat.  35°. 

55'. 

September  27. 

70 

76 

At  sea,     N.  lat.  35°. 

50'. 

September  28. 

67 

74 

At  sea, 

September  29. 

74 

At  sea, 

September  30. 

64 

72 

At  sea,  near  Rhodes, 

October  1. 

59 

71 

At  sea,  near  Rhodes, 

October  2. 

65 

74 

At  sea,  near  the  Island  Episcopia, 

October  3. 

65 

75 

At  sea,  near  the  Island  Stanchio, 

October  4. 

61 

76 

Stanchio, 

October  5. 

61 

77 

Stanchio, 

October  6. 

57 

Vol.  [II. 

5M 

* 


w^*- 


818 


APPENDIX,  N«IV. 


Observation  on  the 

Observation  in  London 

Scale  of  Fahrenheit. 

Where  made. 

When  made. 

on  the  same  Day. 

77 

Stanchio, 

October  7- 

58 

76 

Stanchio, 

October  8. 

58 

76 

At  sea,  near  Patmos, 

October  Q. 

61 

76 

At  Patmos,  in  the  port, 

October  10. 

65 

74 

At  Patmos,     Ditto, 

October  11. 

61 

69 

At  Patmos,     Ditto, 

October  12. 

58 

75 

Ditto,  smaller  Harbour  of  Ditto, 

October  13. 

63 

74 

Ditto,  smaller  Harbour  of  Ditto, 

October  14. 

63 

75 

At  sea,  near  Naxos, 

October  15. 

60 

72 

Island  of  Naxos, 

October  16. 

60 

72 

At  sea,  near  Naxos, 

October  17. 

58 

76 

Island  of  Naxos, 

October  18. 

59 

76 

At  sea,  near  Paros, 

October  19. 

54 

76 

Island  of  Paros, 

October  20. 

50 

77 

r  Parian  marble  quarries  of  Mar- 
1                pessus. 

\  October  21. 

45 

75 

Harbour  of  Syra, 

October  22- 

47 

78 

Harbour  of  Syra, 

October  23. 

53 

75 

At  sea,  near  Zia, 

October  24. 

s    50 

74 

Island  of  Zia, 

October  25. 

53 

76 

Island  of  Zi'a, 

October  26. 

56 

80 

Cape  Sunium, 

October  27. 

56 

78 

Near  A.thens, 

October  28. 

49 

80 

Athens, 

October  29. 

54 

66 

Athens, 

October  30. 

59 

64 

Athens, 

October  31. 

62 

60 

Athens, 

November  1. 

60 

62 

Athens, 

November  2. 

56 

48 

Summit  of  Mount  Hymettus, 

November  3. 

42 

70 

Athens, 

November  4. 

48 

68 

At  sea,  near  iEgina, 

November  5. 

38 

68 

Epiada, 

November  6. 

42 

67 

Hieron  of  iEsculapius, 

November  7. 

40 

67 

Nauplia, 

November  8. 

47 

67 

Argos, 

November  9. 

48 

APPENDIX,   N"IV. 


819 


Observation  on  the 
Scale  of  Fahrenheit. 

Where  made. 

When  made. 

Observation  in  London 
on  the  same  Day. 

62 

Carvati,  near  Mycenae, 

November  10. 

48 

61 

Sicyon, 

November  11. 

53 

63 

Corinth, 

November  12. 

48 

68 

Isthmus  of  Corinth, 

November  13. 

44 

62 

Stadium  of  the  Isthmia, 

November  14. 

43 

64 

Bath  of  Helen,  at  Cenchreae, 

November  15. 

53 

63 

Caneta, 

November  1(5. 

55 

67 

Eleusis, 

November  \J. 

54 

61 

Athens, 

November  18. 

50 

60 

Athens,         , 

November  19. 

42 

62 

Athens, 

November  20. 

41 

61 

Athens, 

November  21. 

44 

68 

Eleusis, 

November  22. 

41 

74 

Eleusis, 

November  23. 

37 

64 

Athens, 

November  24. 

48 

60 

Athens, 

November  25. 

46 

61 

Athens, 

November  26. 

45 

65 

Athens, 

November  27. 

36 

62 

Athens, 

-November  28. 

37 

68 

Athens, 

November  2Q. 

29 

67 

Athens, 

November  30. 

36 

if  tftt'-*  p^v.*rfjr  9J*X-,p 


■*-.*>-.i.-r  .--■.#  . 


I 


820 


APPENDIX,     N"V 


N°  V. 


NAMES    OF    PLACES 

VISITED    IN    THE 

AUTHORS  ROUTE. 


N.B.  No  attempt  has  been  made  upon  the  present  occasion  to  state  the  Distances ;  because,  relating 
principally  to  Sea  Voyages,  they  are  not  precisely  known. 


1802. 

July     17. 

Acre. 

18. 

Acre. 

19- 

Acre. 

20. 

Acre. 

21. 

Sailed  from  Acr 

22. 

At  sea. 

23. 

At  sea. 

24. 

At  sea. 

25. 

At  sea. 

26. 

At  sea. 

27. 

At  sea. 

28. 

At  sea. 

29. 

At  sea. 

30. 

At  sea. 

31. 

At  sea. 

August  l. 

Aboukir. 

2. 

Aboukir. 

3. 

Aboukir. 

4. 

Aboukir. 

1802. 

August     5. 

Aboukir. 

6. 

Aboukir. 

7- 

Aboukir. 

8. 

Voyage  to  the  Nile 

9- 

Rosetta. 

10. 

Upon  the  Nile. 

11. 

Upon  the  Nile1. 

12. 

Cairo. 

13. 

Cairo. 

14. 

Cairo. 

15. 

Cairo. 

16. 

Cairo. 

17- 

Cairo. 

18. 

Cairo. 

19. 

Cairo. 

20. 

Cairo. 

•     21. 

Cairo. 

22. 

Heliopolis. 

23. 

Pyramids  of  Djiza. 

(l)  A  voyage  of  200  miles  against  the  whole  force  of  the  Inundation,  in  36  hours. 


APPENDIX,   N°V. 


821 


1802. 

1802. 

August 

24. 

Cairo. 

I  October 

3. 

Island  Episcopia. 

25. 

Cairo. 

4. 

Island  Stanchio. 

26. 

Cairo. 

5. 

Stanchio. 

27- 

Sheik  Atman 

beyond  Cairo. 

6. 

Stanchio. 

28. 

Pyramids  of  Saccara. 

7- 

Stanchio. 

29. 

Cairo. 

8. 

Stanchio. 

30. 

Cairo. 

9- 

Island  Leria — Patmos. 

31. 

Cairo. 

10. 

Pattnos. 

September     1. 

Cairo. 

11. 

Patmos. 

2. 

Bulac,  upon  the  Nile. 

12. 

Off  Samos,  Icaria,  &c. 

3. 

Terane,  upon 

the  Nile. 

13. 

Western  Port  of  Patmos. 

4. 

Se'l  Hajar — Ruins  of  Sa'is. 

14. 

Patmos. 

5. 

Berimbal. 

15. 

Icaria — Naxos. 

6. 

Rosetta.   t 

16. 

Naxos. 

7- 

Rosetta. 

17. 

Naxos. 

8. 

Aboukir. 

]8. 

Naxos. 

9- 

Aboukir. 

19- 

Paros. 

10. 

Alexandria. 

20. 

Paros.     Antiparos. 

11. 

Alexandria. 

21. 

Paros. 

12. 

Alexandria. 

22. 

Syra: 

13. 

Alexandria. 

23. 

Syra. 

14. 

Alexandria. 

24. 

Jura. 

15. 

Alexandria. 

25. 

Zia. 

10. 

Alexandria. 

26. 

Zia. 

17- 

Aboukir. 

27. 

Cape  Sunium. 

18. 

Aboukir. 

28. 

Sinus  Saronicus. 

19- 

At  sea. 

29. 

Athens. 

20. 

At  sea. 

30. 

Athens. 

21. 

At  sea. 

31. 

Athens. 

22. 

At  sea. 

November  1. 

Athens. 

23. 

At  sea. 

2. 

Athens. 

24. 

At  sea. 

3. 

Athens. 

25. 

At  sea. 

4. 

Athens. 

26. 

At  sea. 

5. 

iEgina. 

27- 

At  sea. 

6. 

Epiada — Ligurio. 

28. 

At  sea. 

7- 

Hieron  of  iEsculapius — Nauplia 

29- 

At  sea. 

8. 

Nauplia. 

30. 

At  sea. 

9- 

Tiryns — Argos. 

October 

1. 

Off  Rhodes. 

10. 

My  cen  ae — Ne  mea . 

2. 

Coast  of  Asia  Minor. 

11. 

Sicyon. 

■H      IS     §g«        ^^ip|^Si^^«g^ 


822 


APPENDIX,    N«  V. 


1802. 

1802. 

November 

12. 

Corinth. 

November 

22. 

Eleusis. 

13. 

Corinth. 

23. 

Eleusis 

14. 

Corinth. 

24. 

Athens 

15. 

Cenchreae- 

-Cromyon. 

25. 

Athens 

10. 

Megara. 

26. 

Athens 

17- 

Eleusis. 

\ 

27. 

Athens 

18. 

Athens, 

28. 

Athens 

19- 

Athens. 

29- 

Athens 

20. 

Athens. 

30. 

Athens 

■ 

21. 

Athens. 

END    OF   VOL.  III. 

Containing  the  Second  Section  of  Part  the  Second. 


ERRATA. 

Page  7,  line    8,    for  are  read  is. 

—  117,    —  15,    for  parisitical  read  parasitical. 

—  214,    —   13,    for  Ammon  read  Phtha,  the  Egyptian  Vulcan. 

—  224,    No.  52,    for  Ham-string  read  Bow-string. 

—  304,  last  line,    dele,  or  Said. 

—  310,  line  1,     for  Mr.  Hume  read  Mr.  now  Dr.  John  Hume. 

—  428,  Note,        for  Tinos  read  Tenos. 

—  503,  Note  (6),  for  granite  read  breccia. 

The  Inscription  mentioned  p.  420,  Note  (a),  was  not  discovered   by  Mr.  Raikes,   as  there  stated,  but  by 

Mr.  (now  Sir  William)  Gell. 

ERRORS  of  the   WRITING  ENGRAVER. 

Plate  XVIII.   for  "  by  the  Author"  read  "by  Preaux." 

Plate  XXV.     for  "  Temple  of  Juno"  read  "  Temple  of  Octavia." 


Printed  by  R.  Watts, 
Broxbourn,  Herts. 


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