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"M 


THE   COMPLETE 

POCKET-GUIDE 


TO 


EUROPE 


EDITED    BY 

EDMUND  C.  STEDMAN 

AND 

THOMAS  L.  STEDMAN 


NEW  YORK 

WILLIAM    R.    JENKINS    CO, 

48th  St.  and  Sixth  Ave. 


LONDON 

BAILLIERE,  TINDALL    &    COX 
8  Henrietta  Street,  Strand 

1910 


Unij .  I,  lit  lUUii,  by  William  H.  JtNK 


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Copyright,  1898,1899,  1905.  by  William  E.  Jenkins 
Copyright,  1907, 1908, 1910,  William  R.  Jenkins  Co. 

All  Bights  Reserved 


Cl.Ag6580i 


Printed  by  thb 
Press  of  William  R.  Jenkins  Co. 

New  York 


NOTE  BY  THE  EDITORS. 


THIS  book  has  been  for  many  years  before  the  ^ 
;^  lie,  and  is  thoroughly  tested  by  increasing  us© 
among  travellers  through  the  portions  of  Europe  gen- 
erally covered  in  a  single  tour.  It  resulted  from  ob- 
servation of  the  trials  undergone  by  those  equipped 
with  the  larger  and.  more  cumbrous  handbooks.  We 
devised  the  Pocket  Guide  because  such  a  work  was 
sorely  needed,  and  no  one  else  undertook  this  practi- 
cal service.  The  ends  desired  were  :  1.  Fuller  and 
better  arranged  details  of  Routes,  Points  of  Interest, 
Fares,  Hotels,  Currency,  etc.,  than  are  given  in 
many  books  of  greater  proportions.  3.  Legible  type 
and  good  maps.  3.  A  real  Pocket  Guide,  so  com- 
pact as  to  be  carried  in  a  man's  coat  or  hip  pocket, 
or  in  a  woman's  dress-pocket  or  muff . 

The  work  has  been  revised  from  year  to  year,  and 
to  an  average  of  coi-rectness  at  least  equal  to  that  of 
any  other  condensed  guidebook.  New  maps  and 
other  improvements  have  been  added.  The  vrlume 
however,  has  been  rigidly  kept  within  its  original 
size.  We  believe  that  the  Pocket  Guide  is  as  near 
what  it  claims  to  be  as  editorial  diligence  can  makQ 
it,  and  trust  that  it  now,  more  than  ever,  will  add  to 
the  comfort  of  travellers  from  our  own  and  othe? 
English-speaking  countries. 

The  Editors. 


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ABBREVIAl'IONS. 


M.  ....  Mile,  or  miles, 
ft.   ....Feet. 

in Inches. 

sq.  . , ,  .  Square. 
N.  ....  North, 
S.    ....  South. 

E East. 

W. .. .  . .  West. 

r. Right  (handX 

1.  ....  .  Left  (hand). 

rly.   . .  .  Railway. 

Stat. . . .  Station. 

ch.     ...  Church, 

hr.  „  , ,  ,  Hour, 
min. .  .  .  Minutes. 

£ Pounds  sterling. 

a.    .  .  <  .  Shilling,  or  shillings 
k.  ,    ,  .  Krone. 


d.   . . . . 
fr.  .... 

c*     •  «     « 

fl.  .... 

mk.,mks 

pf.  . 

kr. 

L  .. 

r.  . . 

Sun. 

Mon. 

Tues. 

Wed. 

Thurs. 

Fri. 

Sat. 


Penny,  or  penca 
Franc,  or  francs. 
Cents,  centimes,  orc«a 

tesimi. 
Florin  or  florins. 
.  Mark,  marks. 
Pfennige. 
Kreutzers. 
Lira,  or  lire. 
Reales. 
Sunday. 
Monday. 
Tuesday. 
Wednesday. 
Thursday. 
Friday. 
Saturday. 


The  names  of  the  most  important  towns,  buildings,  and  collections 
are  printed  in  full-faced  type.  Other  notable  places  and  objects, 
©f  less  importance,  have  titles  in  italics. 

In  many  cases,  as  of  churches  and  public  buildings,  conspicuous 
events,  etc.,  the  date  of  erection  or  of  occurrence  is  placed  directly 
after,  in  parentheses. 

Statements  which  have  for  many  years  been  regarded  locally  as 
Unchallengeable  facts  (e.  g.,  the  preservation  of  the  heads  of  St 
Peter  and  St.  Paul  in  the  Lateran  Basilica,  Rome),  are  repeated  in 
Ibese  pages  without  comment. 


CONTENTS. 


Page 

Tabt^e  ov  Moneys iv 

Abbreviations vi 

A  Chapter  on  Travel vii 

Arrangements  for  the  Journey viii 

Steamships— The  Ocean  Journey x 

Money,  etc xv 

Railway  Travel xix 

Hotel  Expenses,  etc. xx 

Golfing— Cycling xxv 

Automobile  Regulations xxvii 

Customs  Regulations xxx 

Ireland , 1 

Killarney— The  Lakes 6 

Dublin 14 

Belfast,  Giant's  Causeway,  etc 33 

North  Wales 27 

England  (Chester) 33 

Liverpool 36 

English  Lake  District 42 

Scotland  (The  Land  of  Burns) 56 

The  Scottish  Highlands 68 

Stirling,  Perth,  Aberdeen 80 

Edinburgh,  Melrose,  Abbotsf ord 85 

England  (Newcastle,  Durham,  York) ,...,....  95 

Manchester,  Lincoln,  Derby 103 

Coventry,  Warwick,  Stratford 113 

London 128 

Excursions  in  Southern  England 151 

Routes  to  the  Continent 159 

Northern  France 161 

Paris 168 

Routes  from  Paris  to  Switzerland 198 


CONTENTS 

Belgium 201 

Brussels  and  Environs 304 

Ghent,  Bruges,  Antwerp,  etc 207 

Holland 212 

grermany  and  austria 218 

Up  the  Rhine  Iby  Steamer 223 

Berlin 341 

Dresdren  and  Prague 246 

"V^ienna 350 

Southeastern  Europe 255 

Munich  and  the  Tyrol 261 

Switzerland  (Basle,  Zurich) 274 

Lucerne,  Righi,  St.  Gothard 280 

Berne,  Freiburg,  Lausanne,  Geneva , 387 

Chaniounix  and  Mont  Blanc 29^ 

St.  Bernard  and  Simplon  Passes 294 

Italy  (Routes  into  Italy) 297 

The  North-Italian  Cities 303 

Florence 329 

Rome 340 

Naples,  Pompeii,  Sorrento,  Capri 370 

Sicily ; 384 

Southern  France  (Nice,  Marseilles) , 397 

Aries,  Nimes,  Avignon,  Lyons 401 

A  Round  Trip  in  Spain 405 

Portugal 434 

A  Tour  in  the  North 441 

Norway  and  Sweden 445 

Russia 455 

Alphabetical  Table  of  Health  Resorts 463 

Diplomatic  and  Consular  Agents  of  the  U,  S,  471 

Travel-Phrases  in  Four  Languages 476 

Travelers'  Telegraphic  Code 493 

Index 500 


THE  COMPLETE 
POCKET-GUIDE  TO  EUROPE. 


A  CHAPTER  ON  TRAVEL. 


riOURTEOUS  READER,— When  you  have  laid 
aside  you  prejudices,  donned  your  garments  of 
travel,  and  set  your  foot  upon  the  gang-plank  of  the 
steamer  bound  for  Europe,  it  will  not  be  our  fault  if 
you  discover  that  you  have  forgotten  something.  If 
you  have  bought  this  our  little  book,  and  read  this 
preliminary  chapter,  you  will  depart  for  foreign  lands 
with  all  your  preparations  properly  made. 

This  Guide  describes,  as  minutely  as  possible  within 
the  limits  of  a  "handy  volume,"  a  continuous  tour 
through  Northern,  Middle,  South-eastern,  and 
Southern  Europe.  The  writers  hope  and  believe  that 
if  you  follow  exactly  the  routes  which  they  de- 
scribe from  the  first  to  the  last  page  of  the  book, 
yon  will  have  seen  intelligently,  at  a  minimum  of 
cost  and  inconvenience,  the  most  interesting  sections 
of  Europe,  and  all  within  four  months.  By  suppres- 
sing the  trip  down  the  Danube  and  some  parts  of 
the  Scottish  and  Sicilian  tours,  and  the  Scandmavian 
and  Spanish  tours,  this  can  be  reduced  by  thre« 
weeks.  Many  summer  tourists  seem  disinclined  ^^ 
visit  N".  Germany  and  Austria.  This,  we  think,  ifc  a 
decided  error  of  judgment;  but  it  is  evident  that  if 
these  sections  are  not  visited,  the  time  is  reduced 


viil  A  CHAPTER   ON  TRAVEL. 


H 


by  another  ten  days.  Most  travellers  can,  with  a  trifle 
of  care  and  patience,  sit  down  with  this  book  before 
them,  and  by  its  aid  plan  a  journey  which,  including 
the  ocean  voyages  out  and  back,  shall  not  take  up 
more  than  four  full  months,  and  can  be  made  with 
ease  and  enjoyment. 

Especial  attention  has  been  paid,  in  the  preparation 
of  this  volume,  to  giving  the  local  raikoay  and  steamboat 
fares,  —  a  feature  in  which  nearly  all  other  English  and 
American  guide-books  are  sadly  deficient.  We  believe 
that  our  work  will  be  found  very  complete  in  this 
particular.  Several  hundred  letters  were  written  to 
station  masters  in  all  parts  of  Europe  for  the  purpose 
of  securing  extreme  accuracy.  In  most  cases  we  think 
our  fares  will  be  found  correct.  Railway  fares,  how- 
ever, vary  considerably  in  Italy  during  the  course  of 
a  year,  and  our  fares  may  sometimes  be  found  a  bit 
higher  or  lower  than  those  prevalent  in  that  country ; 
b\it  the  difference  will  be  slight.  We  have  done  our 
best  to  secure  accuracy  and  fulness  of  detail.  The 
traveller  will  be  duly  grateful,  after  he  has  tried  in 
vain  to  find  what  he  wants  in  the  "A  B  C's"  and 
"  Bradshaws "  of  Great  Britain,  and  has  puzzled  his 
brains  over  the  complicated  Continental  hand-books. 
We  think  that  the  route  which  we  recommend  and 
desciibe  may  be  followed  from  beginning  to  end  with 
no  other  guide  than  this  one,  which  can  be  carried  in 
the  breast-pocket.  The  writer  has  been  over  nearly 
every  route  described. 

Arrangements  for  the  Journey. 

Try  to  arrange  your  journey  so  as  to  reach  Europe 
by  tlie  first  of  May.  With  a  view  to  this,  secure  your 
steamship  tickets  very  early  in  the  year.     When  you 


AUllANaEMKN'l'S  I'OR  'I'ilK  .lOCiLN J;; Y         IV 

have  fl('f;i(l(Ml  oti  l,li(5  (1h((!  of  your  «l('|»;i,rl,ur(',  arid  Uie 
prohiitdc,  U-M^Ui  of  yoiii"  aliHeiice  from  liomc,  h((*)» 
inl.o  a  proniiiiciiit  Ixuiker's  in  thfi  city  in  whi(!ii  you 
msidc,  or  l-ho  Hcnfjort  whonce  you  8ail,  and  8t!curo  a 
Ij<dl('/r  of  (Jrcdit  or  (Jireidar  JSInim  for  a  fiuni  wliich 
you  d(io;n  Hiillicicnt  to  cover  your  exfmn.sfiH  until  you 
jir*'.  ul>  liouK!  a/^'iiiii.  Allow  a  margin  foi- <'(jn(,in{^(--,n(;ie8. 
On  IIk;  \n'\.\i-Y  of  Cn-dit  n^•t^  I  Ik;  addri'MHcs  of  perhaps 
1  wo  hiiMdr<!d  of  l,lie  liiidin;^  \M.\i\i\t\^  Iiouhcm  of. 
I'liirope,  a,nd  you  liavo  '"dy  to  call  oti  any  one  of 
I  he.si'  for  such  huiuh  as  you  wImIi  in  tlic  euircncy  of 
tiMi  country  where  you  may  happen  to  be.  Tlie 
'J'raiudnrs'  (JIuu-Jch  also  afl'cjrd  an  excellent  meaiiH  of 
i:;i.rryinf?  readily  available  futidn  abroad.  They  are 
accepted  by  most  of  the  hotels  and  sJiops  as  freely  as 
the  money  of  the  country,  and  are  therefore  found 
very  useful  by  the  toui-ist  who  may  v/ant  small  sums 
outside  of  fjard<in^  hours,  or  who  nuiy  not  iind  it 
convenient  to  interrupt  Ids  sight-seeinj^Miy  a  call  at 
the  bard<er's.  Buy  at  a  IjroUer's  a  few  English  sov- 
ereigns, for  use  on  steamer,  at  lanrling  at  Ijiver()  jol, 
or  Queenstown,  or  SoulliMuipton,  or  other  ports. 

Tiike  a  I'li.HHport.  CirfMimstanees  may  occur  in 
winch  it  will  be  positively  necessary  for  you  to  have 
one.  Address  a  letter  to  the  "State  Department, 
Passport  Bureau,  Washington."  asking  foi'  the 
printed  form  necessary  for  application  for  the 
document.  When  you  get  this  foi'm,  till  it  out, 
swear  to  its  contents  before  a  notary,  and  send  it 
back  to  the  State  Department,  inclosing  the  go- 
vernment t.MX  of  ^l.  In  due  time  you  will  get 
your  passport.  One  is  sidflcient  for  man  and 
wife,  or  num  and  family  where  there  are  no 
grown  up  sons  or  daughters,     If  a  passport  serves 


X  A   CHAPTER   ON   TRAVEL.  ^^m 

for  more  persons  than  its  holder,  he  should  askto 
have  a  note  made  upon  it  that  Mr.  -^ is  accompa- 
nied by .     Passports  are  absolutely  necessary  if 

any  one  is  suddenly  called  on  to  prove  his  or  her 
identity.  They  are  useful  in  securing  admission  to 
public  buildings,  private  art  galleries,  etc.  Some- 
times the  regulations  exacting  them  are  revived  for  s, 
few  days  between  two  countries,  because  of  a  diplo« 
matic  tension  or  imbroglio,  and  the  person  who  has 
none  will  find  his  journey  interrupted,  and  will  suf- 
fer loss  of  money,  time,  and  temper. 

Steamships. — The  Ocean  Journey. 

A  voyage  across  the  Atlantic  is  to-day  such  a 
common  undertaking  that  most  travellers  make  as 
brief  preparation  for  it  as  if  they  were  going  by 
train  from  New  York  to  Chicago. 

The  choice  of  steamships  is  very  large.  Try  to 
secure  your  berths  some  weeks  in  advance  of  sail- 
ing; a  deposit  of  $25  is  in  most  cases  sufficient, 
and  this  you  are  supposed  to  forfeit  if  you  fail  to 
take  the  ship,  although  you  may  generally  post- 
pone your  departure  by  giving  prompt  notice  of 
your  desire  to  do  so.  Most  of  the  lines  give  special 
rates  for  return  tickets,  the  lowest  fares  usually  ex- 
cepted. 

Among  the  lines  specially  to  be  recommended  are 
the  White  Star,  New  York  to  Liverpool,  calling  at 
Queen stown,  every  Wed.  (fares,  $75  to  $825) ;  from 
Boston  to  Liverpool,  via  Queenstown,  once  a  month 
on  Sat.  ($60  and  up);  Mediterranean  service  from 
"Boston  and  N.  Y.  every  other  Sat.  (Naples,  $75  to  $100) . 
The  Cunard,  N.  Y.  to  Liverpool,  via  Queenstown, 
Sat.  ($65  to  '^^250);  from  Boston  to  Liverpool.  Tues. 
($65  to  $150);  Mediterranean  service  trom  N.  Y.  to 


THE   OCEAN  JOURNEY  Xi 

Naples  and  Trieste  ($70  and  up).  American  (only- 
line  sailing  under  the  American  flag-)  steamers  sail 
every  Sat.  for  Southampton,  with  tickets  to  London, 
or  Paris  via  Cherbourg  ($90  to  $125  in  summer,  $75 
to  $100  in  winter  ;  also  from  Philadelphia  every  Wed. 
for  Queenstown  and  Liverpool  ($40  up).  North 
German  Lloyd  express  steamers  for  Bremen  (calling 
at  Plymouth  and  Cherbourg),  Tues. ;  twin-screw  pas- 
senger steamers  for  Bremen  (also  calling  at  Plymouth 
and  Cherbourg),  Thurs.  ($150,  scaling  down  to  $75); 
Mediterranean  service  every  Sat.  or  second  Sat. 
direct  to  Gibraltar  and  Genoa  or  Naples  ($150,  $100, 
$80).  Hamburg- American  express  steamers  to  Ham- 
burg (calling  at  Plymouth  and  Cherbourg)  every 
Thurs.,  and  special  sailings  by  twin-screw  steamer 
' '  Deutschland  "  during  the  season  (summer  $100  up, 
winter  $55  up) ;  regular  service  to  Plymouth,  Cher- 
bourg and  Hamburg  every  Sat.,  and  special  sailings 
during  the  summer  (summer  $75  up,  winter  $65  up) ; 
Mediterranean  winter  service  to  Gibraltar,  Genoa  and 
Naples  ($65  up).  Transatlantique  steamers  sail 
every  Thurs.  to  Havre  direct  ($140,  $100,  $75,  in- 
cluding wine). 

Other  popular  lines  are  the  Holland- America, 
every  Wed.  to  Rotterdam  via  Boulogne  ($65  up) ; 
Red  Star,  from  N.  Y.  to  Antwerp  every  Sat.  ($55  to 
$110);  Atlantic  Transport,  N.  Y.  to  London,  every 
Sat.  ($55  up);  Anchor,  every  Sat.,  to  Glasgow  ($50, 
$60,  $75,  or  by  special  steamer,  occasional  sailings, 
$60,  $80,  $100)  ;  Scaiidinavian-American,  to  Den- 
mark, Norway  and  Sweden  direct,  Thurs.  (summer 
$60,  $65,  winter  $50.  $55) ;  Wilson,  N.  Y.  to  Hull, 
occasional  sailings,  $40. 

The  choice,  as  you  see,  is  varied  enough  to  suit 
any  purse,  and  the  accommodation  on  even  the  most 


Xii  A  CHAPTER  ON  TRAVEL. 

inexpensive  of  the  ships  is  good.  For  inform^fitioa 
as  to  sailings  of  these  steamships  from  European 
ports  for  home,  consult  the  list  of  sailings  issued 
by  the  various  Ss.  Co.'s  and  the  daily  journals. 

The  question  of  Baggage  for  a  European  tour  is 
very  important.  Our  advice  is  to  take  with  you  in 
any  case  one  large,  stoutly  built  American  trunk, 
plainly  marked  with  your  name,  place  of  abode,  etc. 
Have  it  well  hooped  about,  and  see  that  it  possesses 
a  capital  lock.  Into  this  put  everything  that  you 
are  certain  not  to  require  on  the  ocean  voyage.  Then 
pack  such  articles  as  you  will  need  either  in  a  roomy 
valise  or  in  one  of  the  small,  flat  cabin  trunks,  built 
60  that  they  will  go  under  a  berth,  which  may  be  had 
at  any  trunk-maker's.  Ladies  will  find  these  "  cab- 
in trunks  *'  almost  indispensable.  Take  with  you 
plenty  of  warm  clothing,  and  make  it  a  rule  in 
travelling  on  the  Continent  always  to  have  over- 
coats, cloaks,  etc.,  at  hand.  You  will  find  them 
as  necessary  in  Switzerland  and  Italy  as  in  Scot- 
land and  North  Germany.  When  you  reach 
Liverpool,  if  you  Intend  to  return  by  that  port, 
you  can  leave  your  cabin- trunk  stored  at  a  hotel 
or  steamship  office,  if  you  think  you  will  not  re- 
quire it.  Then  have  your  large  trunk  sent  from 
point  to  point  where  you  may  need  it,  but  travel 
on  all  short  excursions,  trips  of  two  or  three  days, 
etc.,  unencumbered  by  anything  that  you  cannot 
carry  in  your  hands.  Eve^^  jf  a  valise  is  rather  vol- 
uminous, you  can  take  u  into  railway  carriages 
with  you  all  over  the  Continent*  It  is  not  wise  to 
restrict  one's  self  in  amount  of  baggage  ;  while  the 
rates  for  overweight  are  high  in  some  countries  they 
are  low  in  others.     In  Great  Britain  you  can  carry 


THE   OCEAN  JOURNEY.  xili 

almost  anytliiug  except  a  house  with  you  and  no  ques- 
tions are  asked.  A  good  portion  of  the  equipment  of 
a  masculine  traveller  may  be  purchased  after  his  arrival 
in  Europe.  He  would  better  bring  his  American  over- 
coats, but  hats,  shoes,  rugs,  linen,  etc.,  can  be  had 
to  advantage  in  Great  Britain  or  France.  Besides,  by 
wearing  European  hats  and  shoes  you  will  save  money. 
It  is  a  mistake  to  say  that  a  man  is  known  by  the  com- 
pany he  keeps  ;  he  is  known  by  .his  hat  and  shoes. 
They  are  the  distinguishing  marks  of  his  make-up. 
Travelling  suits  for  gentlemen  should  be  modest  in 
color ;  black  clothes  are  handy  when  one  arrives  at  a 
fashionable  watering-place  or  a  large  town,  and  even- 
ing dress  is  highly  necessary  in  London  in  the  season, 
and  in  long  stops  in  other  cities  it  is  of  course  fre- 
quently required.  We  shall  not  venture  to  offer  the 
ladies  advice  about  what  to  wear,  further  than  to  repeat 
our  injunction  concerning  plenty  of  wraps,  and  to  hint 
that  thin  shoes  should  not  be  worn  in  travel. 
Ulsters  and  linen  dusters  should  be  avoided  ;  the 
ulster,  outside  the  British  Islands  or  at  sea,  looks 
odd  and  is  useless.  A  waterproof  coat  is  extremely 
useful.  An  umbrella,  stout  enough  to  serve  the 
purpose  of  a  cane,  should  be  taken.  Woolen  socks 
and  thick-soled  shoes  are  the  things  lor  travel. 
Travelling  suits  for  gentlemen  cost  in  Great  Britain  or 
France  about  one  third  as  much  as  in  America.  They 
are  not  made  so  well,  nor  of  such  good  material  as  our 
own,  but  they  are  very  serviceable. 

On,  the  Steamslii'p  Voyage  keep  ni  the  open  air  as 
much  as  possible.  If  you  suffer  continuously  from  sea- 
sickness, struggle  up  on  deck  daily,  and  in  one  of  the 
adjustable  steamer  chairs,  to  be  provided  by  yourself. 


xiv  A  CHAPTER  ON  TRAVEL. 

remain  in  recumbent  posture,  well  wrapped  up,  but 
do  not  pass  a  moment  of  daylight  down  stairs,  except 
when  at  meals  or  in  very  rough  weather.  The'  deck 
steward  will  even  bring  you  your  meals,  if  necessary. 
If  the  ship  pitches  violently,  lie  with  your  head  to- 
ward the  bows.  If  you  are  well,  and  wish  to  remain 
:so,  avoid  heavy  food,  heating  liquors,  intense  appli- 
cation to  books  or  cards.  Just  live,  eat,  and  sleep, 
and  when  you  reach  land  you  will  be  amazed  to 
observe  how  you  are  rested.  Avoid  late  suppers. 
•Get  up  early,  and  get  on  deck  at  once.  When  you 
a,re  approaching  land  the  question  of  stewards'  fees 
w^ill  come  up.  We  should  say  give  the  steward  who 
waits  on  you  at  table  lOs. ;  your  berth-room  steward 
somewhat  less,  according  to  the  trouble  you  have 
made  him,  and  the  deck  steward  about  5s. ;  the 
"boots"  and  bath-man  must  be  remembered  if  you 
have  been  served  by  them.  But  if  you  cannot  afford 
so  much,  give  less;  the  servants  expect  something, 
but  they  never  grumble  at  the  amount. 

Landing  at  Queenstown  is  very  simple.  You  go 
off  in  a  tug,  which  transports  you  up  the  bay  from 
Roches  Point  (see  Ireland).  Customs  formalities 
same  as  on 

Landing  at  Liverpool. — We  strongly  advise  tourists 
to  leave  the  steamers  at  Queenstown,  and  go  through 
Ireland  first,  but  we  feel  convinced  that  large  numbers 
of  them  will  proceed  to  Liverpool.  The  landing  ar- 
rangements at  this  great  port  are  not  so  perfect  as 
they  might  be,  and  have  recently  suffered  some  small 
alterations.  Passengers  formerly  left  the  steamers 
in  tugs,  and  came  up  to  the  Prince's  Landing  Stage, 
where  there  is  a  kind  of  custom-house,  and  where  they 
were  usually  kept  waitii^^,  _-bout  an  hour.  Now  ships 
usually  go  into  dock  before  discharging  passengersi 


The  custom-house  officers  search  for   cigars    and 
spirits  only;   if  you  have  neither,  you  will  soon  have  . 
your  "luggage"  on  a  cab  or  dray,  and  be  on  your 
way  to  the  North  Western   or    Midland    Railway 
stations,  or  to  your  hoteL 


Money — A  Word  of  Explanation. 

In  Great  Britain  the  money  is  pounds,  shillings, 
and  pence  (£  s.  d,).  In  France,  Belgium,  Switzer- 
land, Italy  and  Spain  there  is  a  decimal  currency. 
In  the  first  three  countries  the  reckoning  is  in 
francs  and  centimes;  in  Italy  it  is  in  tire  and 
centesimi ;  in  Spain,  pesetas,  reales  and  centimos. 
But  gold  coins  of  any  of  the  five  above-named 
countries  circulate  freely  in  all  of  them. 
The  French  twenty-franc  piece,  called  napoleon,  or 
louis,  is  current  money  anywhere  in  the  Continent. 
In  Holland  the  money  is  reckoned  in  guilders  and 
ce7its.  There  are  100  cents  in  a  guilder,  which  is  40 
cents  of  our  money.  In  Grermany  the  reckoning  is 
-in  marks  and  pfennig e.  The  mark  is  about  24 
cents  gold,  and  there  are  100  pfennige  in  it.  When 
you  give  one  pfennig  to  a  begear,  he  never  troubles 
you  again.  In  Austria  you  must  reckon  in  gulden 
and  kreutzers.  The  gulden  is  40.6  cents  of  our 
money,  and  is  divided  into  100  kreutzers.  In  Austria 
there  is  now  a  new  system  in  which  the  unit  is  a 
crown,  which  is  equivalent  to  a  fraction  over  20  cents 
of  our  money,  divided  into  100  heller.  You  will 
observe  that  in  giving  the  local  railway  fares  in  these 
different  countries,  we  have  used  abbreviations  : 
Pounds,  shillings,  pence,  £,  s.,  d. ;  francs  and  centi- 
mes, fr.,  c. ;  lire  and  centesimi,  1.,  c. ;  pesetas,  p. ;  etc. 
In  Portugal  the  money  is  counted  in  rets,  of  which  it 


xvi  A  CHAPTER  ON  TRAVEL 

takes  ten  to  make  one  cent.  In  Russia  miles  and 
kopeks  are  the  money.  The  gold  coins  most  in  use 
'on  the  lines  of  travel  which  you  are  likely  to  take 
are  sovereigns  and  half-sovereigns  TEnglish)  ; — the 
guinea  (21s.)  no  longer  exists,  although  it  is  still 
used  in  reckoning  ;  —  twenty,  ten  and  five  franc 
pieces  ;  twenty-mark  and  ten-mark  pieces.  In  Sweden, 
Norway  and  Denmark  the  krone  (|0.268)-  is  the  basis 
of  reckoning.  Be  careful  not  to  bring  Italian  or 
Austrian  paper  to  Paris  or  London.  You  will  lose 
very  heavily  on  it.  English,  French  and  German 
bank  notes  are  as  good  as  gold.  The  French  have 
notes  of  fifty,  one  hundred,  five  hnndred,  and  one 
thousand  francs,  and  these  are  extremely  convenient 
to  carry  on  the  Continent,  but  they  are  not  current 
in  other  countries.  (See  ComparativQ  Table  of 
Moneys  following  title-page.) 

Railway  Travel.— You  will  find  first,  second, 
and  third  class  everywhere  (save  upon  the  English 
Midland  Railway  and  a  section  of  the  Great 
Northern,  which  have  no  second  class)  ;  and  w^e 
have  given  the  fares  for  each  class  in  all  cases  when 
practicable.  Express  trains  on  the  Continent  have 
no  third  class  ;  but  in  Great  Britain  nearly  all 
trains  have  it.  First-class  is  best  for  long  jonr- 
nevs  ;  second  good  enough  for  short  ones  ;  and 
third  worth  taking  now  and  then,  particularly  in 
England  and  Germany,  for  the  purpose  of  study- 
ing the  common  people.  Second-class  in  Germany 
and  Austria  is  almost  as  comfortable  as  first-class 
in  England  and  France.  On  a  long  journey  from 
France  into  Germany,  you  may  frequently  take 
*'a  mixed"  ticket  wnth  advantage,  i  e.,  first 
in  France  and  second  in   Germany.      A   srentle- 


A  WORD  OF  EXPLANATION  xvii 

man  traveling  alone  and  not  afraid  of  a  little  fatigue 
may  take  third-class  through  from  London  to  Glasgow 
or  Edinburgh,  or  from  London  to  Liverpool,  saving 
just  half  the  sum  he  would  expend  in  iirst-class.  lu 
England  and  Great  Britain,  generally,  people  speak 
of  "taking"  a  ticket  and  "booking"  a  place.  The 
"  booking-office  "  is  where  the  tickets  are  soki  The 
conductor  is  called  the  "  guard."  This  phraseology 
appears  to  have  been  left  over  from  the  old  coaching 
days.  Be  sure  and  attend  to  your  "luggage"  care- 
fully. Get  a  label  pasted  on  any  piece  that  you  pro- 
pose to  leave  in  the  "luggage  van,"  and  when  you 
reach  your  destination,  be  on  hand  to  claim  your 
things.  There  is  no  checking  system.  Small  bags, 
wraps,  etc.  can  always  be  left  in  a  "  cloak  room  "  at 
any  railway  station  for  hours  or  days.  Eees  trivial. 
Employes  are  civil  and  obliging,  but  all  expect  small 
compensation.  Do  not  make  the  mistake,  either  in  Great 
Britain  or  on  the  Continent,  of  giving  large  gratuities. 
In  the  British  Islands  smoking-carriages  are  provided 
on  every  train;  in  Erance  and  some  other  Latin 
countries  smoking  is  permissible,  by  general  consent, 
|in  any  carriages  except  those  reserved  for  ladies  only ; 
in  Italy,  only  in  smoking  compartments ;  in  the  Ger- 
manic lands  smoking  is  wellnigh  universal,  although 
every  train  has  its  clamen-cowpe,  and  its  compartments 
Fiir  nichtraucher.  The  coupes,  or  end  compartments 
with  windows  in  front,  —  another  survival  of  diligence 
and  coacli  customs,  —  may  be  hired  at  reasonable 
charges  above  tlie  first-class  fares,  and  should  generally 
be  engaged  beforehand  at  the  station.  In  Erance  and 
Middle  Europe  generally  the  tariff  is  about  16  francs  per 
seat  per  thousand  kilometres.  A  party  of  four,  going 
through  from  Paris  to  Cologne,  or  commg  from  Nice 
to  Paris,  will  find  a  coupejvorth  taking.     Do  not" 


xviii  A  CHAPTER  ON  TRAVEL. 


n. 


trust  too  implicitly  to  information  furnished  by  rail- 
road and  steamship  officials,  for  it  may  be  mislead- 
ing. Among  R.  R.  guide  books,  "  Bradshaw,"  price 
6d.,  is  the  most  compact  for  Great  Britain;  the  Chaix 
**  Guide  des  Chemins  de  Fer  de  I'Europe  "  will  do  for 
the  Continent.  It  contains  all  that  may  be  found  in 
the  local  guides  published  in  Germany,  Switzerland, 
etc.,  costs  only  40  cents,  and  is  corrected  several  times 
yearly.  Most  guides  are  furnished  with  maps,  from 
which  you  can  gain  very  clear  ideas  of  the  location  of 
the  lines  along  which  you  travel.  On  excursions,  re- 
member that  return  tickets  can  generally  be  had  at  a 
discount  from  the  regular  fares.  Return  tickets  are 
usually  available  only  on  the  day  on  which  they  are 
sold,  and  by  the  first  train  of  the  next.  Saturday 
tickets,  however,  generally  extend  until  the  first  Mon- 
day train.  On  the  Continent  the  terms  for  returns 
are  much  more  liberal  than  in  Great  Britain.  "  Cir- 
cular tickets"  are  issued  in  nearly  all  countries,  and 
ample  information  concerning  them  is  given  at  rail- 
way stations,  hotels,  banks,  and  in  the  newspapers. 
There  is  usually  a  saving — (there  is  certainly  great 
convenience) — in  buying  these  circular  tickets,  espe- 
cially to  those  who,  for  example,  wish  to  go  from 
Paris  to  Switzerland,  and  after  visiting  that  country 
to  return  directly  to  France.  There  is  a  great  variety 
of  excursion  tickets  and  hotel-coupon  arrangements, 
by  which  inexperienced  travellers,  or  those  who  do 
not  care  to  explore  their  own  routes,  may  be  aided  in 
travelling,  passing  all  over  the  Continent  and  the 
Levant  under  efficient  chaperonage.  Prominent 
among  these  is  the  agency  of  Messrs,  Thos.  Cook 
&  Sons,  Messrs.  Raymond  &  Whitcomb,  and  Messrs. 
Henry    Gaze     &     Sons.       There    are    sleepiiig-cars 


RAILWAYS.  XiX 

on  many  English,  and  Continental  lines  ;  in 
Great  Britain  are  like  our  own;  on  the  Conti- 
nent the  "Mann  Boudoir  Car"  is  in  use.  This 
latter  is  Yery  comfortable,  but  the  rates  are  extrava- 
gantly high.  The  Boudoir  Cars  are  called  wagons^ 
lits,  "bed- wagons,"  in  most  Continental  countries; 
their  office  in  Paris  is  No.  3  Rue  Scribe.  Between 
Paris  and  Vienna,  Paris  and  Geneva,  Paris  and 
Turin  and  Florence,  and  often  E,ome  also,  Paris 
and  Berlin  and  Russia,  etc.,  there  is  a  regular 
sleeping-car  service.  The  Russian  cars  are  larger 
and  more  elegant  than  the  other  Continental  ones; 
and  in  Russia  and  Switzerland  a  modified  Ameri- 
can railway-carriage,  in  which,  however,  class  dis- 
tinctions are  kept  up,  is  in  use.  The  amount  of 
baggage  carried  free  in  France,  Spain,  and  Sweden 
is  66  pounds;  in  North  Germany,  Austro-Hun- 
gary,  Holland  and  Russia,  55  pounds ;  in  Great 
Britain,  any  reasonable  amount  ;  in  South  Germany, 
Belgium,  Italy  and  Switzerland,  there  is  no  free  bag- 
gage, but  the  rates  are  not  extravagant.  In  some 
parts  of  Italy  and  Switzerland  there  have  been  great 
complaints  that  baggage  has  been  plundered  in 
transit  by  baggage-masters  and  trainmen;  hence 
the  necessity  for  first-rate  locks  already  men- 
tioned. Parcels,  and  baggage  when  forwarded 
to  be  called  for  later,  should  be  sealed.  Indeed, 
the  railway  companies  generally  insist  on  this, 
and  refuse  articles  which  appear  to  be  insecurely 
fastened.  In  all  Continental  countries,  when  your 
baggage  is  weighed,  a  receipt  is  given  you,  and 
the  number  on  it  corresponds  to  that  pasted  on  the 
trunk  or  valise.  Even  if  there  is  no  excess  of  weight, 
yon  must  have  a  receipt.  In  some  cases,  in  going 
from  an  important  city  in  one  country  to  an  impor- 
tant city  in  another,  your  baggage  can  be  "registered 
through,"  and  examined  when  it  reaches  destination; 


A  CHAPTER   ON   TRAVEL. 

in  others,  although  registered  through,  it  must  be  ex- 
amined at  the  Irontier.  The  examination  is  a  pure 
formality  almost  everywhere.  In  vexatious  cases  noth- 
ing is  gained  by  grumbling  and  scolding.  Small  fees 
to  railway  servants,  guards,  etc.,  always  meet  with 
prompt  return  in  civility  and  privilege.  At  all  German 
and  Swiss  railway  depots,  apply  to  the  portier  for 
information.  In  Italy  tiie  railway  facchini  are  paid 
accordnig  to  tariff,  —  4  soldi  (cents)  for  a  trunk,  2  for  a 
bag  or  valise,  and  in  proportion  for  a  bundle  of  wraps, 
etc.  In  Rome,  however,  this  tariff  is  raised  to  5  and 
3  soldi.  The  refreshment  rooms  in  England,  Scotland, 
Italy,  Spain,  and  North  Germany  are  not  very-good;  in 
otlier  countries  they  are  excellent.  On  long  journeys 
carry  your  own  basket,  especially  in  Italy  and  Spain, 
where  fruit,  bread,  and  Avine  may  be  had  in  the  open-air 
markets  for  a  song,  but  in  hotels  are  purposely  held  very 
dear.  In  Italy  and  Eussia  a  window  on  the  wind- 
Ward  side  of  a  railway  carriage  cannot  be  kept, 
©pen  if  any  person  in  the  compartment  ob.iects.    .^ 

Hotel  Expenses  ■ 

must  naturally  vary  much  according  to  taste  and  in- 
come of  the  traveller.  Our  lists  of  hotels  are  carefully 
selected,  and  we  beheve  that  the  houses  recommended 
will  be  found  satisfactory.  Great  Britain  is  an  ex- 
pensive country  by  comparison  with  Switzerland  or 
Italy;  in  Germany  cities  are  expensive,  small  towns 
and  country  cheap.  The  American  will  notice  with 
some  surprise  that  Hfe  in  Europe  is,  as  a  whole,  no 
longer  much  if  any  cheaper  than  in  America.  To  live 
even  carefully  at  a  first  class-hotel  in  any  part  of  Great 
Britain  costs  about  four  dollars  or  four  dollars  and  a 
half  daily,    divided   somewhat   as   follows:    breakfast. 


HOTEL   EXPENSES.  xxi 

from  two  and  six  (two  shillings  and  sixpence)  to  three 
and  six;  lunch,  about  same  price;  dinner,  without 
wine,  five  shillings ;  room,  from  four  and  six  to  eight 
and  six,  and  invariably  one  and  six  for  attendance. 
Wines  are  as  dear,  with  few  exceptions,  as  in  the 
United  States.  There  are,  however,  good  hotels, 
where  you  may  live  at  about  ten  shillings  daily; 
and  private  boarding-houses  in  the  large  cities 
where  it  will  cost  from  seven  to  ten  shillings  daily — ■ 
rarely  under  ten.  A  person  very  economically 
inclined  may  possibly  live  for  six  shillings  daily,  but 
not  in  rapid  travel.  On  the  Continent  you  may 
calculate  that  if  you  reach  a  hotel  at  nightfall,  dine 
or  sup  and  sleep,  and  take  early  breakfast  there,  your 
bill  will  be  12  or  13  francs.  For  a  stay  of  some  days 
ycu  may  manage  not  to  spend  more  than  from  ten 
to  fourteen  francs  daily.  In  large  capitals,  simply 
take  room  at  your  hotel,  and  your  first  meal  there. 
The  others  can  be  had  to  suit  your  purse  and  con- 
venience at  restaurants.  In  Germany,  Switzerland, 
and  some  parts  of  Italy,  the  tables  d'hote  are  cheaper 
than  the  restaurants.  If  you  want  a  cheap  room  in 
a  hotel,  say  so ;  there  is  no  surprise  at  economy  in 
Europe.  Travellers  should  carry  their  own  soap 
and  toilet  paper.  Washing  can  usunlly  be  doi>8 
within  24  hours  in  all  countries.  When  you  buy 
a  parcel  and  order  it  sent  to  your  room,  give  the  num- 
ber of  the  chamber,  and  not  your  name.  Fee  the 
portier  at  Continental  hotels ;  he  will  be  useful.  Give 
one  of  your  dining-room  waiters  something,  but  give 
to  only  one.  Never  mind  the  head  waiter's  sardonic 
frown.  In  France  you  will  save  money  by  taking  your 
meals  at  the  hours  when  the  natives  take  theirs ;  out 
of  hours  70U  pay  special  prices.    By  asking  for  "ice- 


xxii  A  CHAPTER  ON  TRAVEL. 

water,"  yoi\  can  now  get  it  almost  everywiiere. 
In  Middle  Europe  drink  ordinary  wines,  an4 
dilute  them  with  water,  except  at  evening.  The 
vin  ordinaire  is  pure  and  wholesome  in  all  coun- 
tries. Examine  your  bills,  and  don't  allow  over- 
charges. Omnbiks  from  station  is  generally 
charged  in  bill.  Baggage  porter  expects  small 
fee  when  you  go  away.  Insist  on  having  your 
bill  when  you  ask  tor  it.  You  will  find  English 
spoken  in  almost  aii  hotels.  You  can  always 
post  letters  and  generally  send  telegrams  from 
your  hotel,  unless  in  some  small  country  town. 
Telegraphy  is  cheap  in  nearly  all  European  coun- 
tries. Before  leaving  America  tell  your  friends 
to  write  to  you,  care  of  your  bankers  in  London 
or  Paris  ,  if  you  keep  your  bankers  advised  ot 
your  address  you  will  never  miss  a  mail.  Reg 
ister  your  name  at  the  London  and  Paris  offices 
of  your  banker's;  and  you  may  thus  find  friends 
or  acquaintances  who  happen  to  be  travelling  abroad. 
In  Paris,  you  wall  find  the  larger  bankers  well  pro- 
vided with  post-offices,  reading-rooms,  and  informa- 
tion about  travel.  If  you  need  a  courier  (but  you 
really  do  not),  ask  your  banker  or  landlord  for  the 
addi'ess  of  one.     Couriers  are  expensive  luxuries. 

We  think  all  necessary  information  about  cabs  will 
be  found  in  the  text  of  the  volume.  Diligences  are  to 
be  avoided  as  much  as  possible.      In  some  places  they 


CAUTIONS.  xxiii 

are,  however,  indispensable.  On  steamboats  on  lakes 
and  streams  you  may  usually  take  free  about  twice 
as  much  baggage  as  by  rail.  Always  make  your  bar- 
gains beforehand  tor  private  carriages. 

A  few  Cautions  as  to  small  matters  may  not  be 
out  of  place.  Should  you  go  shopping  on  ihe  Con- 
tinent, especially  in  France,  Belgium,  Switzerland, 
or  Italy,  try  to  make  up  your  mind  from  your  in- 
spection of  an  article  in  the  windows  whether  you 
want  it  or  not.  The  window  is  really  the  shop  ; 
everything  is  plainly  marked,  and  if  you  go  in 
and  come  out  again  without  buying,  the  skopkeeper 
considers  that  you  have  made  him  waste  his  time, 
and  does  not  conceal  his  disappointment  from  you. 
Should  you  take  furnished  apartments,  be  sure  and 
inspect  the  inventory  made  of  them  before  you  move 
in.  Do  not  violate  any  regulations,  municipal  or 
general,  however  trivial  and  useless  they  may  seem, 
for  the  laws  are  rigidly  enforced.  Secure  seats  at 
the  theatres  at  least  24  hours  before  you  intend  to 
go,  otherwise  you  will  be  badly  placed.  After  climb- 
ing a  Swiss  mountain  pass,  be  careful  not  to  take 
cold;  imprudence  in  the  mountains  often  ruins  a  whole 
summer.  Wraps  must  be  taken  into  galleries, churches, 
and  palaces,  especially  in  Italy,  even  in  summer.  In 
passnig  from  sunshine  to  shade,  gather  your  garments 
about  you,  and  avoid  chills.  Treat  servants  in  France 
and  other  Latin  countries  and  in  Switzerland  as  you 
would  in  America,  but  in  Great  Britain  and  Grermany 
and  Austria  keep  th^^m  at  a  distance;  they  do  not  un- 
derstand democracy,  and  would  impose  upon  you.  If 
you  go  to  a,poste  restante  (general  delivery  post-ol!ice), 
present  your  name  plainly  written  or  printed  on  a  card. 
lu  making  pedestrian  tours  in  out-of-the-way  districts, 


xxiy  A  CHAPTER  ON  TRAYEL 

do  not  lose  your  temper  if  the  local  officials  are  a 
little  curious  about  your  movements.  In  case  of 
sudden  illness  in  France,  Italy  or  Switzerland,  call 
an  American  or  English  physician,  if  you  can  find 
one.  Failing  that,  a  local  physician  who  ha,s  had 
practice  among  foreigners  is  better  than  one  who  has 
not. 

Language  is  not  so  great  a  barrier  to  communica- 
tion as  is  imagined.  If  you  get  into  a  corner  of 
Europe  where  no  tongue  that  you  can  speak  is  under- 
stood, use  English  ."just  as  if  the  people  knew  what  it 
meant,  and  make  signs.  You  will  get  on  famously. 
The  little  list  of  plirases  at  the  end  of  this  volume 
may  be  found  an  aid  to  those  who  have  some 
familiarity  with  those  languages  most  spoken  in 
Europe.  On  genera,l  principles,  however,  it  is  better 
to  use  what  little  y^n  know  of  a  foreign  language 
than  to  seek  interpreters.  You  will  be  presumed  to 
know  more  than  yov  express,  and  you  will  make 
better  bargains. 

Go  to  the  United  S^^tes  Consul  for  information 
when  you  are  really  in  d^ubt  and  need  advice.  Not 
even  then,  if  he  is  a  political  appointee  and  not  a 
practical  man.  In  the  latter  case  only  is  he  likely  to 
have  that  acquaintance  v.ith  the  language,  laws  and 
customs  of  the  place,  whereby  he  ca.p  9id  you?  whi^e-- 
if  he  has  an  important  olhce  and  attends  to  it,  h* 
has  little  time  for  strangers  ^bn^  come  wixihoiii  *s 
business  reason  for  their  call. 


GOLFING-CYCLING.  xxv 

Golfing. 

'ine  opportunties  for  golf  on  the  Continent  have 
greatly  increased  during  the  past  few  years,  many  of 
the  hotels  in  the  resorts  largely  patronised  by  English 
and  Americans  having  had  links  laid  out.  Golf 
clubs  having  more  or  less  desirable  courses  have  been 
established  in  the  following  places: — Belgium — 
Antwerp,  Bruges,  Brussels,  Ostend,  Vianden ;  France, 
— Aix-les-Bains,  Arcachon,  Argeles,  Beaulieu-sur- 
Mer,  Biarritz,  Boulogne,  Cannes,  Costebelle,  Dieppe, 
Dinard,  Gavarnie,  Hyeres,  Nice,  Parame,  Paris,  Pau, 
St. -Jean  de  Luz,  Sainte  Marguerite  (Pornichet  Sta- 
tion); Germany — Baden-Baden,  Berlin,  Bremen, 
Dresden,  Homburg,  Wiesbaden;  Oihraltar;  Holland 
— Arnheira,  Doom,  Haarlem,  Hague,  Hilversum, 
Leeawarden;  Italy — Conio,  Florence,  Rome,  San 
Remo,  Sorrento,  Spezia,  Varese;  Portugal — Oporto; 
Russia — Moscow,  St.  Petersburg;  Sweden — Gothen- 
burg; Switzerland — Maloga,  St.  Moritz,  Samaden. 

Cycling. 

The  chief  inconveniences  of  a  cycle  tour  on  the 
Continent  are  those  due  to  the  customs  regulations  in 
the  different  countries.  At  nearly  every  frontier  the 
tourist  is  obliged  to  pay  the  regular  duty  imposed 
upon  wheels  imported  for  sale,  but  on  leaving  the 
country  this  duty  is  refunded.  The  following  is  the 
deposit  required  in  each  country,  the  amount  in  each 
ease  being  reduced  to  its  American  equivalent : 
Austria,  $10;  the  tourist  must  swear  to  a  declaration 
that  he  intends  to  remain  only  temporarily  in  the 
country,  and  that  his  wheel  is  not  for  sale;  on  leav- 
ing the  country  the  deposit  will  be  refunded;  Bel- 
gium,  12  per  cent,  ad  valorem;  if  intending  to  leave 
the  countiy  by  rail,  the  tourist  must  write  in  ad- 
vance to  the  custom-house  otiicial  at  the  frontiftr,  en- 


xxvi      A  CHAPTER  ON  TRAVEL. 

closing  receipt  and  stating  on  what  train  he  will  pass 
through;  the  money  will  then  be  refunded  when  the 
frontier  is  reached.  Denmark,  10  per  cent,  ad 
valorem;  special  permit  must  be  obtained  if  tourist 
intends  to  leave  through  another  custom  house;  a 
lead  seal  must  be  attached  to  the  wheel  as  a  receipt. 
England,  free.  France,  25  cents  per  pound;  a  lead 
seal  is  attached  to  the  wheel  as  a  receipt,  and  the 
tourist  may  leave  by  any  frontier.  Germany,  ivQQ 
for  tourists  ;  in  this  country  bicycles  will  not  be 
taken  on  the  express  trains.  Holland,  free  for 
tourists.  Italy,  $8.  Luxembourg,  3  cents  per  poimd. 
Portugal,  27  per  cent,  ad  valorem;  a  seal  required  as 
in  France.  Russia,  $7.80;  a  seal  and  permit  re- 
quired as  in  Denmark.  Spain,  5c.  per  pound;  and 
in  addition  the  tourist  must  obtain  a  special  pass 
good  for  six  months,  for  which  20  cents  is  charged  ; 
the  frontier  officials  are  sometimes  exacting,  and  it 
may  be  wise  to  secure  the  services  of  a  custom-house 
broker.  Sweden  and  Norway,  25  and  30  kr.  respect- 
ively ;  if  the  tourist  intends  to  enter  the  country 
through  any  but  the  principal  custom  houses  he  must 
obtain  a  permit  from  the  Director  General  of  Cus- 
toms, and  he  must  leave  the  country  by.  the  same 
route  that  he  entered;  his  deposit  will  be  forfeited  if 
he  remains  over  sixty  days ;  Switzerland,  6c.  per  lb. 
Any  American  wheelman  intending  to  vour  on  the 
Continent,  if  ho  is  not  already  a  member  of  the 
L.  A.  W.,  should  join  that  organization,  as  it  gives 
him  many  privileges.  The  governments  of  Italy, 
Belgium  and  Switzerland  now  permit  touring  mem- 
bers of  the  L.  A.  W.  to  pass  their  respective  frontiers 
without  making  a  deposit.  There  is  also  an  alliance 
between  the  League  and  the  Cyclists'  Touring  Club 
of  Great  Britain,  whereby  a  member  of  one  may  be 
admitted  to  temporary  membership  in  the  other 
without  ext^a  fes^.      The  Touring  Club  de  France 


AUTOMOBILING  XXvii 

may  also  be  joined  by  League  members  at  slight  ex- 
pense, and  with  membership  in  those  two  clubs  one 
obtains  road  books  free,  reduction  in  rates  at  hotels, 
and  many  other  advantages. 

The  wheel  should  be  provided  with  a  brake,  a  bell 
or  gong,  and  a  lantern.  It  must  be  boxed  for  the 
steamship  very  strongly  and  not  merely  crated;  a 
bicycle  trunk,  though  expensive,  is  advisable.  There 
is  a  charge  for  freight  on  most  lines.  If  the  tourist 
has  the  precaution  to  take  a  second  chain  and  extra 
nuts,  together  with  a  serviceable  repair  kit,  he  may 
be  spared  much  vexation  and  loss  of  time  and 
money. 

Automobile  Eegulations. 

The  steamship  companies  insist  that  automobiles  be 
crated  before  being  accepted  for  transportation  to  or 
from  Europe.  The  expense  of  this  is  about  $100,  but 
the  box  can  be  stored  with  the  steamship  company  or 
the  forwarding  company  and  used  for  1  he  return  voy- 
age. The  channel  steamers  between  Great  Britain 
and  the  Continent  have  every  facility  for  carrying 
uncrated  cars  without  risk.  The  motoring  tourist 
should  always  have  with  him  a  passport,  an  official 
certificate  of  his  ability  as  a  driver,  and  a  maker's 
certificate  giving  date  of  sale,  value,  weight,  type  of 
car,  capacity,  etc.  It  will  be  to  his  advantage  in 
many  ways  to  become  a  member  of  the  Touring  Club 
of  France.  The  following  is  a  synopsis  of  the  custom 
house  rules  and  police  regulations  in  the  most  fre- 
quented countries  of  Europe: 

France. — The  duty  is  at  the  rate  of  50  francs  for 
each  IQO  kilogrammes,  if  the  car  weighs  more  than 
125  kilogrammes  (275  lbs.),  and  120  francs  if  it 
weighs  less  than  this.  The  amount  must  be  deposited 
on  entering  the  country,  and  will  be  refunded  when 
leaving  the  country  (within  six  months)  on  presenta- 


xxviii  A  CHAPTER  ON  TRAVEL 

tion  of  the  deposit  receipt  at  the  frontier.  The  speed 
limit  is  thirty  kilometres  (about  19  miles)  in  the 
country,  20  kilometres  (about  13  miles)  in  villages; 
in  narrow  roads  or  streets  the  car  must  not  exceed 
the  speed  of  a  man  walking.  These  rules  are  not 
strictly  enforced  if  the  car  seems  to  be  under  com- 
plete control.  At  night  a  white  and  a  green  light 
must  be  displayed  in  front. 

Germany. — The  duty  is  230  marks,  which  is  sel- 
dom demanded  if  the  driver  has  a  passport  and  can 
prove  that  the  car  has  been  in  his  possession  a  rea- 
sonable time.  The  amount  paid  will  be  refunded 
when  the  car  leaves  the  country.  The  regulations 
vary  in  different  towns  and  parts  of  the  empire;  in 
many  places  certain  streets  are  forbidden  to  automo- 
biles, and  in  one  little  principality  at  least  the  en- 
trance of  motor  cars  into  the  capital  is  not  allowed 
when  the  ruler  is  "in  residence." 

Holland. — The  duty  is  5  per  cent,  ad  valorem,  re- 
payable on  leaving  the  country;  it  is  seldom  exacted 
unless  the  car  is  manifestly  new.  The  speed  limit  is 
30  kilometres  (about  13  miles)  in  the  country,  8  kil- 
ometres (5  miles)  in  villages,  over  bridges,  down 
hill,  at  night,  and  in  foggy  weather.  A  permit  must 
be  obtained  from  the  Secretary  of  Public  Works  and 
must  be  countersigned  at  the  custom  house;  blank, 
permits  may  be  had  from  the  Netherlands  Automo- 
bile Club,  The  Hague,  on  payment  of  4.20  gulden 
(50  cts.).  Every  car  must  carry  two  lights  and  a 
horn  or  bell  respectively  visible  and  audible  350  feet. 

Belgliam. — A  duty  of  12  per  cent,  ad  valorem,  re- 
payable at  the  frontier  when  leaving  the  country,  is 
required.  Lamps  and  horns  are  required,  cars  must 
proceed  slowly  in  towns  and  when  crossing  bridges, 
and  in  all  cases  must  be  under  control  and  must  not 
exceed  a  reasonable  speed. 

Great  Britain  and  Ireland. — There  is  no  duty 
on  automobiles.     Lights  and  sound  signals  are  re- 


AUTOMOBILING  Xxix 

quired  and  a  reasonable  speed  must  not  be  exceeded. 
To  avoid  accidents  the  driver  must  observe  the  rule 
of  the  road  and  pass  to  the  left  instead  of  the  right. 

Switzerland.— The  duty  is  20  francs  per  loO  kil- 
ogrammes, repayable  when  leaving  the  country. 
Each  car  must  carry  a  white  and  a  green  light  m 
front  and  a  rec\  light  behind,  a  good  horn,  and  two 
brakes,  each  one  capable  of  stopping  the  car  within 
two  metres  (33  feet)  on  a  decline  or  when  riiuning  at 
full  legal  speed.  The  speed  must  not  exceed  30  kil- 
ometres (about  19  miles)  in  the  country,  10  kilometres 
(6^  miles)  in  cities  and  towns  or  on  mountain  roads, 
and  6  kilometres  (3f  miles)  on  bridges,  in  narrow 
streets,  and  whenever  warning  signs  demand  it.  The 
car  must  stop  when  meeting  a  horse  that  appears 
frightened  or  when  a  government  stage-coach  is  met. 
There  are  a  number  of  other  regulations,  some  of 
them  vexatious  and  unreasonable.  Indeed,  automo- 
biles are  unpopular  in  Switzerland,  and  in  case  of 
accident,  no  matter  where  the  blame  lies,  the  motor 
driver  is  usually  held  accountable.  A'  permit  is 
necessary  unless  the  owner  has  ine  from  his  own 
government  and  that  government  is  one  which  recip- 
rocates in  this  respect  with  Switzerland. 

Austria.— The  duty  is  130  kroner  (about  $26)  for 
the  car  and  18  kr,  ($3.50)  for  every  100  kilogrammes 
(220  lbs.)  weight  of  the  motor.  This  sum  is  refunded 
when  the  owner  leaves  Austrian  territory. 

Italy.— The  duty  varies  from  200  lire  ($38.60)  for 
a  car  weighing  up  to  500  kilos  (1,200  lbs.)  to  600  lire 
(115.80)  for  one  weighing  over  1000  kilos  (2,400  lbs.) 
The  amount  will  be  refunded  on  leaving  the  country 
within  six  months.  The  driver  must  obtain  a  permit 
within  five  days,  either  on  the  basis  of  reciprocity,  if 
that  exists  with  the  country  granting  his  original 
licence,  or  after  proving  to  the  authorities  by  actual 
test  that  he  is  a  competent  driver. 

Russia. — There  is  a  vexatious  amount  of  red  tape 


XXX  A  CHAPTER  ON  TRAVEL 

to  unravel  in  order  to  drive  a  motor  car  into  Russia. 
A  special  permit  must  be  obtained  from  the  Secretary 
of  Finance,  anr]  one  who  gets  the  permit  within  a 
week  of  his  applanation  is  to  be  congratulated.  The 
application  for  the  permit,  which  must  be  made  on 
stamped  paper  (80  kopeks,  about  40  cents),  must 
state  how  long  the  driver  expects  to  be  in  Russia,  at 
what  town  the  car  will  enter,  and  from  what  town  it 
will  leave  the  country.  The  duty  paid  will  be  re- 
funded some  time  or  other,  but  usually  not  until 
some  weeks  after  the  car  has  left  the  country. 

Spain. — The  duty  paid  is  refunded  on  leaving  the 
country.     The  speed ^aws  are  not  irksome. 

Denmark. — No  auty  is  required  if  the  owner 
makes  declaration  that  he  is  touring  and  intends  to 
make  only  a  temporary  stay  in  the  country. 

Reimportation  into  tsie  United  States.— The 
regulations  of  the  U.  S.  Treasury  Department  pro- 
vide that  the  owner  of  an  automobile  of  foreign 
manufacture  on  which  duties  have  been  paid  may, 
after  its  ideYitification  and  the  issue  of  a  certificate  by 
customs  otficers  on  his  application,  take  it  abroad 
for  touring  purposes,  with  the  right  of  free  entry  on 
its  return  with  him  or  within  thirty  days  alter  him, 
provided  that  no  repairs,  nnprovements,  or  additions 
were  made  to  the  automobile,  except  absolutely  neces- 
sary repairs  costing  not  more  than  10  per  cent,  of  ||! 
the  original  appraised  value.  Cai-s  of  American  * ' 
manufacture  will  be  admitted  on  their  return  free 
of  duty,  provided  that  they  shall  not  have  been  ad- 
vanced in  value  or  improved  in  condition  and  that 
all  repairs  made  thereto  were  absolutely  necessary 
and  did  not  cost  more  than  10  per  cent,  of  the 
original  price  of  the  car  ;  and  provided  further  that 
it  shall  be  shown  that  the  accessories  are  those  taken 
abroad  under  the  certificate. 

Customo  Regulations 

All  persons  on  their  arrival  in  the  United  States 


I 


CUSTOMS  REGULATIONS  xxxi 

are  required  to  make  a  declaration  of  dutiable  articles 
obtained  by  them  abroad.  The  declaration  will  be 
verified  on  the  pier  by  careful  examination  of  the 
contents  of  the  packages. 

The  senior  member  of  a  family  may  include  all  the 
members  .thereof  in  his  or  her  declaration. 

State  the  exa^ct  number  of  pieces  of  baggage  in 
which  your  effects  are  contained. 

Give  the  cost  or  foreign  value  of  each  dutiable 
article. 

As  far  as  practicable,  keep  your  original  receipted 
bills  for  all  purchases  of  any  importance  during  your 
stay  abroad. 

When  packing  your  baggage  for  your  return  trip 
it  would  be  well  to  prepare  a  list  of  articles  so  pur- 
chased, with  the  prices  paid  for  each. 

If  these  articles  are  so  placed  in  your  trunks  that 
you  can  easily  find  a^d  exhibit  them  fc^'  appraise- 
ment, much  time  and  inconvenience  will  be  saved. 

Each  person  is  entitled  to  bring  in  fifty  cigars  or 
tliree  hundred  cigarettes  for  his  own  use.  All  cigars 
and  cigarettes  in  excess  of  this  number  and  less  than 
three  thousand  are  liable  to  seizure,  but  in  meritori- 
ous cases  may  be  released  by  the  payment  of  a  fine 
equal  to  the  duty  and  the  internal  revenue  tax. 

Duties  will  be  assessed  at  the  foreign  market 
values  at  the  time  of  exportation  with  due  allowance 
for  wear  or  depreciation.  A  failure  to  declare  duti- 
able articles  in  your  possession  will  render  the  same 
liable  to  seizure  and  confiscation  and  you  to  criminal 
prosecution. 

In  case  passengers  are  dissatisfied  with  the  values 
placed  upon  dutiable  articles,  they  have  the  privilege 
to  demand  a  re-examination,  but  application  therefor 
should  be  immediately  made  to  the  deputy  collector 
at  the  pier.  If,  for  any  reason,  this  is  impracticable, 
the  packages  containing  the  articles  should  be  left  in 
%ustoms  custody  and  application  for  re-appraisement 
ma.de  to  the  collector  at  the  custom  house  in  writing 


XXXii  A  CHAPTER  ON  TRAVEL 

■within  two  days  after  the  original  appraisement. 
No  request  for  re-appraisement  can  be  entertained 
after  the  articles  have  been  removed  from  customs 
custody. 

Baggage  intended  for  delivery  at  another  port 
may  l)e  forwarded  thereto  upon  application,  without 
the  assessment  of  duty  at  the  poi't  of  arrival. 

Any  baggage  or  personal  effects  in  transit  through 
the  United  States  to  any  foreign  country  may  on 
application  be  forwarded  to  the  port  of  departure. 
The  officer  taking  your  declaration  will  advise  you 
on  this  point. 

Representatives  of  various  railroads  and  express 
companies  will  be  found  on  the  pier  and  will  take 
charge  of  your  baggage  and  forward  it  to  destination 
if  desired. 

Government  officers  are  forbidden  by  law  to  accept 
anything  but  currency  in  payment  of  duties,  but  if 
requested  will  retain  baggage  on  the  pier  for  twenty- 
four  hours  to  enable  the  owner  to  secure  the  cur- 
rency. 

It  is  unlawful  for  customs  officers  to  receive  any 
"  tip"  or  gratuity,  and  to  offer  the  same  is  a  violation 
of  law. 

Passengers  are  requested  promptly  to  report  to  the 
Secretary  of  the  Treasury,  the  collector  at  the  custom 
house  or  to  the  deputy  collector  at  the  pier  any  dis- 
courtesy or  incivility  on  the  part  of  customs  officers. 

A  resident  of  the  United  States  returning  thereto 
is  entitled  to  bring  with  him,  free  of  duty,  personal 
effects  taken  abroad  by  him  as  baggage,  provided 
they  have  not  been  remodelled  or  improved  abroad 
so  as  to  increase  their  value,  and,  in  addition  thereto, 
articles  purchased  or  otherwise  obtained  abroad,  of  a 
total  value  not  exceeding  $100.  Such  articles  may 
be  for  the  use  of  the  person  bringing  them  or  for 
others,  but  not  for  sale. 


CUSTOMS  REGULATIONS  xxxiii 

(To  prevent  the  use  of  the  foregoing  provision  as 
a  cloak  for  smuggling,  customs  officials  are  in- 
structed to  inquire  into  the  bona  fides  of  the  journey 
and  the  actual  ownership  of  the  goods.  Either  the 
presence  of  an  unusual  amount  of  any  class  of  highly 
dutiable  merchandise  or  frequent  and  hasty  journeys 
is  sufficient  to  raise  the  presumption  of  bad  faith. 
Such  cases  will  be  subject  to  most  careful  scrutiny 
and  prosecution.) 

All  articles  obtained  abroad,  whether  exempt  from 
duty  or  otherwise,  should  be  declared,  and  an  allow- 
ance of  $100  for  articles  obtained  abroad  will  be 
made  by  the  deputy  collector  upon  the  pier. 

Non-residents  of  the  United  States  are  entitled  to 
bring  with  them  as  baggage  free  of  duty  all  wearing- 
apparel,  articles  of  pei'sonal  adornment,  toilet  articles 
and  similar  personal  effects  in  actual  use  and  neces- 
sary and  appropriate  for  the  wear  and  use  of  such 
persons  and  their  present  comfort  and  convenience^ 
not  intended  for  other  persons  or  for  sale. 

Non-residents  for  the  purposes  of  customs  admin- 
istration are  divided  into  three  classes: 

First — Actual  residents  of  other  countries. 

Second — Persons  who  have  been  abroad  for  the 
purpose  of  study,  restoration  of  health,  or  for  other 
specific  objects,  and  have  had  a  fixed  foreign  abode 
for  one  year  or  more. 

Third — Persons  who  have  been  abroad  for  two 
years  or  more  for  any  purpose  whatever,  and  who 
have  had  during  that  time  a  fixed  place  of  abode  for 
one  year  or  more. 

Household  effects  of  persons  or  families  from  for- 
eign countries  will  be  admitted  free  of  duty  if  actu- 
ally used  abroad  by  them  not  less  than  one  year,  and 
not  intended  for  any  other  person  or  for  sale. 

The  law  expressly  forbids  the  importation  into  the 
United  States  of  garments  made  in  whole  or  in  part 


xxxiy  A  CHAPTER  ON  TRAVEL 

of  the  skins  of  prohibited  fur  seals,  and  unless  the 
owner  is  able  to  establish  by  competent  evidence  and 
to  the  satisfaction  of  the  Collector  either  that  the 
garments  were  purchased  prior  to  December  29,  1897, 
or  that  the  animals  from  which  the  skin  was  taken 
was  captured  elsewhere  than  in  prohibited  waters, 
entry  will  not  be  allowed. 

Residents  who  desire  to  take  sealskin  garments 
abroad  may  have  the  same  registered  with  the  Col- 
lector. 


THE   COMPLETE 
POCKET-GUIDE  TO  EUROPE. 


IRELAND. 


THE  majority  of  American  visitors  to  Europe  go 
first  to  Oreat  Britain,  leaving  a  tour  tlirough 
the  picturesque  and  interesting  island  of  Ireland 
among  the  possibilities  of  the  last  days  of  their  pil- 
grimage. Our  own  impression  is  that  those  who 
go  abroad  as  early  as  May  or  June  would  do  better 
to  land  at  Qaeenstown,  if  their  ships  stop  there,  and 
make  a  brief  trip  through  the  Emerald  Isle,  and 
quitting  it  either  via  Belfast  for  Glasgow,  or  via 
Dublin  and  Kingstown,  crossing  the  Irish  Channel 
to  Holyhead  in  4  lirs.,  and  going  from  Holyhead 
to  Chester,  Liverpool,  and  thence  northward  to  the 
English  Lake  District,  or  to  London,  as  best  suits 
their  humor.  Thousands  of  persons  return  to  the 
United  States  without  having  set  foot  in  Ireland. 
They  intended  to  go  there  ;  but  after  their  long  season 
of  travel  on  the  Continent  they  get  back  to  London 
somewhat  wearied,  as  well  as  economically  inclined, 
and  the  result  is  that  they  hasten  to  take  ship  for  f 
home,  seeing  naught  of  Ireland  but  the  bold  lines  of; 
its  coast  and  the  round  towers  which  cap  its  highest 
cliffs. 


^  QUEENSTOWN 

Ireland  is  worth  a  visit  of  3-5  days,  and  our  ob-,' 
ject  is  to  show  the  tourist  how  he  may  spend  those| 
days  to  advantage  in  that  country.  The  steamships 
of  the  Cunard  and  White  Star  lines  call  at  Queens- 
town,  coming  from  and  going  to  New  York,  Boston 
and  other  ports.  Tugboats  speedily  convey  passengers 
with  their  baggage  from  Roches  Point,  M^here  tlie 
steamers  stop,  up  to  the  town  proper;  and  the  noble 
port  witli  its  green  water,  the  verdant  hills  crowned 
with  handsome  buildings  and  protected  by  fortifica- 
tions, and  the  pretty  groves  and  forests,  out  of  which 
white  villas  peep,  form  a  picture  doubly  pleasing  to 
the  eye  of  the  visitor,  after  he  has  for  many  days  seen 
nothing  but  sea,  sky,  and  the  ship  that  brought  him 
ovei. 

Queenstowii  {Queen" s  Hotel)  is  on  Great  Island, 
which  lies  in  tiie  magnificent  bay  or  arm  of  the  sea 
into  which  the  river  Lee  pours  its  waters.  The  town 
was  formerly  called  the  "  Cove  of  Cork,"  and  received 
its  present  name  after  Queen  Victoria  paid  it  a  visit. 
It  is  built  on  the  face  of  a  hill  sloping  down  to  the 
shore;  has  a  Cathohc  cathedral  and  a  fine  Protestant 
church,  and  a  trifle  more  than  10,000  inhab.  Invalids 
are  attracted  to  Queenstown  by  the  extreme  mildness 
of  its  climate,  llev.  Charles  Wolfe,  who  wrote  the 
famous  lines  on  the  buiial  of  Sir  John  Moore,  died  of 
consumi)tion  here  in  1823,  and  is  buried  on  the  island. 
Tlie  immense  harbor  of  Cork,  large  enough  to  afford 
shelter  to  the  combined  navies  of  Europe  at  once,  in 
its  basin  10  square  M.  in  area,  is  well  defended  by  forts 
on  either  side  the  cbaunei  of  enti"ance.  On  ISjnke  Island 
is  Fort  Westmoreland  commanding  entrance  to  harbor. 
Hawlbowline  Island  contains  Oi'dnance  stores  and  an 
armory.  Rocky  Island  is  a  powder  magazine,  with  6 
huge  chambers,  holding  10^000  bar»^e-l'^  of  gunpowder. 


IRELAND  3 

and  quarried  out  of  the  solid  rock.  It  was  into  Cork 
Harbor  and  Crossliaven  Creek  that  Drake  retreated 
when  the  Spanish  fleet  was  hotly  pursuing  him.  He 
succeeded  in  hiding  his  ships  so  efl^ectually  at  a  spot 
known  to  this  day  as  Drake  s  Tool,  tliat  the  supersti- 
tious Spaniards  attributed  the  disappearance  to  magic. 

There  are  three  routes  from  Queeustown  to  Cork: 
by  rail  all  the  way  (is.  2d.,  9d.,  or  6d.) ;.  by  steamer 
to  Passage  and  thence  by  rail  (fares  same  as  above)  ; 
or  by  steamer  up  the  river  direct  to  Patrick's  Bridge. 
"  It  would  be  difficult,"  wrote  Sir  John  Forbes,  "  to 
overpraise  the  beauty  of  the  river  from  Cork  to 
Quef^nstown,  or  the  magnificent  harbor  or  inland  bay 
in  which  it  terminates,  more  especially  when  these  are 
seen  under  the  influence  of  a  bright  sun  and  brilliant 
sky."  At  Monkstown,  at  a  point  where  the  river  Lee 
widens  into  a  lake,  stands  a  castle,  now  in  rums. 

Cork  {Imperial  Hotel;  Royal  Victoria;  Commercial ; 
and  others),  the  "capital  of  tlie  South,"  has  a  popula- 
tion of  80,000.  It  is  situated  on  both  banks  of  the 
river  Lee,  which  is  crossed  by  numerous  bridges.  The 
Irish  name  of  Cork  signifies  "  a  swamp,"  and  well  de- 
scribes the  location  of  the  town.  The  Grand  Parade, 
the  South  Mall,  Great  George's-St  ,  Mardyke,  and  St. 
Patrick's-St  ,011  which  stands  a  statue  nf  Father  Mathew, 
are  the  principal  avenues.  The  Queen's  College,  a 
handsome  quadrangular  structure  in-  the  Tudor-Gothio 
style,  is  situated  on  a  small  hill  near  the  S.  fork  of  the 
stream.  St.  Ann's  Ch.  is  the  most  interesting  edifice 
in  Cork.  It  contains  the  '*'  bells  of  Shaiidon,"  of  which 
Father  Prout  sang  so  melodiously.  This  ch.  was  built 
iu  1722,  and  its  curious  steeple,  three  sides  of  which 
are  of  limestone,  while  the  fourth  is  red,  is  120  ft.  high, 
and  constructed  of  hewn  stone  from  a  Franciscan  abbey 
<HFliere  James  II.  had  once  heard  mass,  and  from  tbe 


4  CORK.  —  BLARNEY  CASTLE. 

ruins  of  a  castle  which  had  been  the  official  residence 
of  the  lords-president  of  Munster.  The  Ch.  of  tht 
Jloly  Trinity,  founded  by  Father  Matliew,  who  begas 
his  career  as  an  apostle  of  temperance  in  Cork,  is  won 
thy  a  visit ;  and  so  is  tlie  Cathedral  of  St.  Fionn  Bar, 
This  saint  founded  a  monastery  on  the  site  of  a  heathen 
temple  in  Cork  in  the  7th  century.  The  invading 
Danes,  200  years  later,  surrounded  the  little  town  with 
walls.  Cork  had  its  charter  as  a  city  taken  away  at 
the  close  of  the  15th  century,  because  it  had  received 
Perkin  Warbeck,  the  impostor  king,  with  royal  honors. 
The  charter  was  restored  in  1609.  Cromwell's  cruel- 
ties in  Cork,  in  the  War  of  the  Protectorate,  are  still 
related  by  the  inhabitants.  William  Penn,  the  founder 
of  Pennsylvania,  became  a  convert  to  Quakerism  in 
Cork,  where  he  heard  the  eloquent  preaching  of  one 
Thomas  Loe.  Cork  was  surrendered  to  Henry  II. 
in  the  12th  century  by  Dermot  M'Carthy,  Prince  of 
Desmond ;  but  the  English  invaders  were  harassed  for 
centuries  by  petty  Irish  chieftains,  and  the  sentiment 
of  independent  Irish  nationality  seems  even  nowadays 
conspicuously  manifest  in  the  neighborhood.  The  love- 
ly Victoria  Park  of  140  acres  may  be  seen  on  the  way 
to  Blarney  Castle. 

Blarney  Castle  may  be  reached  from  Cork  by  rail 
in  16  niin.  But  the  best  plan  is  to  take  a  jaunting-cai 
(about  3s.  there  and  back)  by  the  road  on  .^e  N.  bank 
of  the  river.  The  distance  is  5  M.  Cormac  M'Carthy 
built  the  massive  donjon  tower,  120  ft.  high,  and  the 
lower  portion,  in  the  15th  century ;  and  the  famous 
Blarney  Stone,  which  bore  the  inscription  Cormach 
MacCarthy  Fortis  Mi  Fieri  Fecit  A.  D.  1446,  now 
illegible,  was  clasped  by  two  iron  bars  to  a  projecting 
buttress  at  the  top  of  the  castle,  at  the  N.  angle,  sev« 
»ral  ft.  below  the  level  of  the  wall,  so  that  the  persoB 


IRELAND.  5 

vho  wished  to  kiss  it  had  to  hold  on  to  the  bars,  and 
project  his  body  forward  in  most  risky  fashion.  An. 
other  stone,  marked  "  1703,"  stands  within  the  towei 
in  a  place  where  it  is  quite  accessible  to  kisses.  "  The 
Blarney  Stone,"  says  Black's  Picturesque  Tourist  of 
Ireland,  "  had  long  been  a  byword  among  the  Irish  : 
it  is  difficult  to  conjecture  why,  unless  the  glib  tongues 
of  the  natives  of  this  locality  were  supposed  to  be  not 
the  ordinary  gift  of  Nature.  But  it  had  not  reached 
its  full  zenith  of  talismanic  power  until  1799,  when 
Milliken  wrote  his  well-known  song  of  '  The  Groves  of 
Blarney.'  A  C-irious  tradition  attributes  to  the  stone 
the  power  of  endowing  whoever  kisses  it  with  the 
sweet,  persuasive,  wheedling  eloquence,  so  perceptible 
in  the  language  of  the  Cork  people,  and  which  is  usu- 
ally termed  Blarney'"  There  is  an  odd  story  about 
Blarney  Lake,  a  pretty  sheet  of  water,  \  M.  from  the 
castle.  It  is  said  that  the  Earl  of  Clancarty,  who  for- 
feited the  property  at  the  Revolution,  sank  all  his  fam-r 
ily  plate  in  a  certain  part  of  this  lake  ;  that  three  of  thf 
M'Carthys  inherit  the  secret  of  the  place  where  th^ 
treasure  is  sunk,  any  one  of  whom,  dying,  communi 
cates  it  to  another  of  the  family,  and  thus  perpetuates* 
the  secret,  which  is  never  to  be  made  public  until  a 
M'Carthy  is  again  Lord  of  Blarney. 

Other  Excursions  from  Cork.  —  To  Rostellan 
Castle  and  Cloyne,  three  times  daily  by  steamer  to 
Aghada.  In  Rostellan  Castle  is  preserved  an  ancient 
sword  said  to  have  belonged  to  Brian  Boroihine,  the 
ai?-".estor  of  the  O'Briens.  At  Cloyne  there  is  a  14th 
century  cathedral  and  a  noted  "round  tower."  —  To 
TougJtal  and  the  Blachwater.  This  excursion  may  be 
made  'u  a  single  day  by  taking  an  early  train  from 
Cork  tn  Youghal  (28  M.),  ivhence  a  steamer  up  the 
beaut^iul  Blackwater  River  to  Cappoquin,  above  whicy 


6  LAKES  OF  KILLARNEY 

point  the  stream  is  not  navigable.  At  Youghal 
(Hotel :  Devonshire  Arms)  is  the  "  Warden's  House/' 
tlie  residence  of  Sir  Walter  Raleigh  in  1588-89.  It 
was  there  that  he  entertained  Spenser  when  the  poet 
was  preparing  his  "Faerie  Queene"  for  publication.  It 
was  also  in  Youghal  that  the  first  potato  was  planted 
in  Ireland,  by  Raleigh.  From  Cappoquin  the  traveller 
may  take  the  mail  (jaunting-car)  to  Lismore,  one  of 
the  most  ancient  towns  in  Ireland,  twice  daily  (Sundays 
excepted).  Castle  of  tlie  Duke  of  Devonshire,  on  the 
site  of  the  old  University ;  visitors  admitted.  From 
Lismore  the  tourist  can  go  by  rail  to  Fermoy  in  45  min. ; 
from  Fermoy  to  Mallow,  46  rain. ;  and  from  Mallow  he 
may  return  to  Cork,  reaching  there  in  the  evening,  or 
may  go  to  Killarney. 

Killarney.    The  Lakes,  and  Lake  Region. 

The  traveller  may  go  from  Cork  to  Killarney  by  rail, 
via  Mallow  Junction,  in  about  3  hrs.,68f  M.  (lls.6d., 
8s.  4d.,  5s.).  This  is  the  shortest,  but  the  least  inter- 
esting route.  For  those  pressed  for  time,  it  is  the 
best.  By  leaving  Cork  late  in  the  afternoon  one  may 
reach  Killarney  in  time  to  get  a  good  night's  rest,  and, 
-starting  early  on  the  following  morning,  may  visit  the 
most  attractive  points  in  the  region,  getting  back  to 
Mallow  Junction  in  time  to  take  a  night  train  for  Dub- 
lin. But  those  who  are  making  a  more  leisurely  tour 
will  find  themselves  well  repaid  for  taking  either  of  the 
two  routes  via  GlengarifiE.  One  of  these  leads  from 
Cork  by  rail  through  Bandon  to  Dunraanway,  and 
thence  by  coach  to  Gleng,3i.YiS{Roche's  Hotel;  Eccles'), 
thence  to  Kenmare  (Lansdowne  Arms),  and  so  on 
through  a  barren  and  wild,  but  picturesque  country, 
across  the  mts.,  and  down  to  Killarney.     The  most 


IRELAND.  7 

extensive  view  of  Glengariff,  a  ravine  about  3  M.  long, 
and  rich  with  yew,  holly,  and  arbutus,  is  to  be  had  from 
Old  Berehaven  road,  near  Cromwell's  Bridge.  The 
beautiful  grounds  around  Glengariff  Castle  are  worth  a 
visit.  From  Glengariff  the  journey  may  be  extended  to 
Bantry  Bay,  either  by  land  or  water.  The  latter  way  is 
preferable,  affording  an  excellent  view  of  the  bold  coast 
scenery.  But  we  would  recommend  none  of  these  ex- 
cursions to  the  seaside,  unless  the  weather  is  entirely 
favorable.  Nothing  is  drearier  than  an  Irish  wet  day 
by  the  sea.  The  route  from  Cork  to  Macroom  by  rail, 
24  M.,  and  thence  by  jaunting-car  to  Glengariff,  Ken- 
mare,  and  Kiilarney,  is  highly  spoken  of  by  travellers 
who  have  recently  taken  it.  Both  these  above-mentioned 
ways  require  two  days,  and  a  trip  to  Bantry  Bay  will 
take  another  half-day.  In  summer  a  coach  runs  from 
Cork  to  Kiilarney,  in  one  day,  but  does  not  pass  through 
the  most  interesting  places.  (Fare  by  this  coach,  19s.) 
Macroom  is  the  place  where  the  Irish  Bards  held  their 
meetings,  and  a  fine  ivy-mantled  castle  may  be  seen 
there.  In  the  vicinity  of  Kenmare  there  are  many 
lovely  views ;  and  the  river  or  bay  of  Kenmare  is  by 
some  considered  the  most  beautiful  on  the  Irish  coast. 
Kiilarney  (^Royal  Victoria  Hotel ;  Railway ;  Lake; 
/?i«z>/«^^6yi),  population  5,000,  lies  about  l^M.  from  the 
N.  E.  margin  of  Lough  Leane,  or  the  Lower  Lake. 
It  possesses  a  cathedral,  designed  by  Pugin,  and  a 
nunnery,  with  a  school  attached,  where  400  girls  are 
educated.  The  hotels  generally  command  very  good 
views  of  the  lakes  and  the  mts.  The  town  is  renowned 
for  its  beggars ;  and  for  the  artifice  of  the  peasantry 
in  extorting  sixpences  from  travellers,  in  return  for 
some  trifling  and  entirely  superfluous  service.  Two 
days  are  required  properly  to  see  the  lakes,  the  Gap 
of  Dunloe,  Muckross  ^Lbbey,  and  the  Tore  Cascade  ^ 


6  LAKES  OF  KILLAKNEY. 

but  if  only  one  day  can  be  given,  the  best  plan  is  to 
engage  a  pony  and  ride  from  Killarney  througli  the 
Gap  of  Dunloe  to  the  head  of  the  Upper  Lake,  having 
previously  ordered  a  boat  to  be  in  readmess  at  Lord 
ferandon's  Cottage  on  that  lake.  It  is  15  M.  from  Kil- 
larney to  this  cottage,  and  many  may  prefer  to  walk 
rather  than  ride  a  stumbling  horse,  especially  as  they 
can  rest  in  the  boat  while  rowed  down  the  lakes  after- 
wards. Arrangements  for  horses,  boats,  etc.,  can  usu. 
ally  be  made  at  the  hotels.  The  tariff  is  established  by 
local  law,  and  there  is  no  occasion  to  give  more. 

The  first  object  of  interest  on  the  road  from  Killar. 
ney  to  the  Gap  of  Dunloe  is  a  huge  county  lunatic 
asylum,  and  the  next  is  the  old  ruin  of  Aghadoe,  2:^ 
M.  from  the  town.  All  that  remains  of  the  once  cele- 
brated castle  is  a  fragment  of  a  tower.  Near  by  is  a 
church,  consisting  of  two  distinct  chapels  of  unequal 
antiquity,  lying  E.  and  W.  of  each  other.  The  W. 
chapel  is  iu  the  Romanesque  style,  and  was  under  the 
patronage  of  St.  Finian.  The  E.  chapel  dates  from 
1158,  is  in  the  Pointed  style,  and  was  dedicated  to  the 
Holy  Trinity.  There  are  a  few  fine  country-houses  on 
the  road  beyond  Aghadoe.  Lake  View  House,  on  the 
1.,  is  the  residence  of  a  brother  of  the  great  O'Con- 
nell ;  Beaufort  House  is  attractive  ;  and  Dunloe  Castle, 
also  on  the  1.,  is  celebrated  as  having  been  one  of  the 
residences  of  the  powerful  O'Sullivan  Mor.  The  pres- 
ent proprietor  has  restored  the  castle.  About  2  M. 
from  the  entrance  to  the  Gap  is  the  Cave  of  Dunloe  (in 
a  field  not  far  from  the  road).  This  cavern  was  opened 
in  1838  by  some  laborers  digging  a  ditch,  and  was 
found  to  be  roofed  with  impost  stones,  in  the  angles  of 
which  were  inscriptions  in  the  ancient  Ogham  charac- 
ter, supposed  to  have  been  used  by  the  Druids  before 
the  introduction  of  Christianity  into  Ireland-     This 


IRELAND.  9 

venerable  storehouse  of  Irish  history  will  have  but 
small  interest  for  the  tourist,  and  he  will  do  well  to 
press  on  to  the  Gap.  On  his  way  thither  he  will  pass 
the  cabin  in  which  the  fair  "Kate  Kearney  "  once  re- 
sided, and  will  doubtless  be  invited  by  one  of  her 
descendants  to  exchange  sixpence  or  a  shilling  for  a 
mysterious  drink  of  goats'   milk  and  whiskey. 

Of  the  Gap  of  Dunloe  au  Irish  writer  has  said : 
*'  It  appears  as  if  the  vast  range  of  mts.,  of  which  this 
most  siagular  ravine  is  composed,  were  cleft  in  twain 
by  a  uiighty  sword :  one  is  not  surprised  at  its  appear- 
ance having  given  rise  to  such  a  tradition."  It  is  a 
narrow  defile  4  M.  long,  between  the  range  of  hills 
called  "  Macgillicuddy's  Reeks  "  and  the  Purple  Mt., 
a  shoulder  of  the  Tomies.  The  rapid  stream  called 
the  Loe  traverses  the  wliole  length  of  the  glen,  ex- 
panding at  various  places  into  five  lakes  known  as 
the  Cummeen  Thomeen.  The  road  is  a  mere  bridle, 
path,  sometimes  on  the  very  edge  of  precipices.  The 
peasantry  say  that  it  was  at  the  Black  Lough,  one  of  the 
small  lakes,  that  St.  Patrick  banished  the  last  snake 
from  Ireland.  Many  travellers  who  are  disappointed 
in  the  Gap  of  Dunloe  find  the  view,  just  after  leaving 
it,  up  what  is  called  the  Black  Valley,  extremely  im- 
pressive. The  Gap  is  bordered  by  rocky  peaks  vary- 
ing from  2,000  to  3,4?00  ft.  in  height ;  but  the  vast  and 
desolate  amphitheatre  of  the  Black  Valley,  with  its 
rugged  masses  of  darkened  rock,  its  circular  basins  of 
still  water  filled  with  dissolved  peaty  matter,  and  its 
wild  and  mysterious  recesses,  gives  an  impression  of 
grandeur  and  wonder  which  its  neighbor  ravine  fails  to 
produce.  The  view  down  the  valley  in  a  warm,  hazy 
day  is  very  striking.  The  water  in  the  lakes  throws 
back  the  light  which  it  receives  by  reflection  frorn  tha 
sky,  and  thus  seems  to  be  lighted  from  below. 


10  ijAkes  of  killarney. 

At  numerous  points  in  the  Gap  and  on  tlie  Lake? 
there  are  superb  echoes,  and  there  is  no  lack  of  peaS' 
ants  to  awaken  them,  and  to  claim  a  fee  for  having 
done  so.  A  narrow  and  rugged  footpath  leads  down 
from  tlie  head  of  the  Gap  to  Lord  Brandon's  Cottagey 
where  the  tourist  who  has  ordered  a  boat  before  leav« 
ing  Killarney  will  find  it  waiting  for  him.  It  is  wel^ 
to  have  lunch  provided  in  the  boat,  so  that  one  can 
take  it  as  he  is  rov/ed  down  towards  the  Middle  anc| 
Lower  Lakes.  Erom  Lord  Brandon's  Cottage  one 
may  ascend  Purple  Mt.  (2,739  ft.  high),  and  from 
the  summit  get  a  fine  view  of  the  Upper  and  Middle 
Lakes  and  a  long  stretch  of  the  sea-coast  beyond;  but 
this  would  require  half  a  day  at  least. 

The  Lakes.  —  From  the  cottage,  across  the  Upper 
Lake,  2^  M.,  the  boatmen  row  so  as  to  show  the 
tourist,  the  numerous  pretty  islands.  The  first  of  these 
is  McCarthy  s ;  the  second,  Arbutus  Island,  completely 
covered  with  the  beautiful  plant  whose  name  it  bears. 
"The  islands  in  the  lakes  of  Cumberland,"  says  the 
author  of  Black's  Picturesque  Tourist,  "are  either 
grassy  holms,  with  sometimes  a  piece  of  yellow  whin 
to  catch  the  eye,  or  perhaps  a  solitary  tree  or  shrub, 
or,  if  larger,  such  as  St.  Herbert's  and  Lord's  Isle  on 
Derwentwater,  bearing  shady  groves  of  ash  and  plane, 
mixed  with  every  other  variety  of  forest  trees.  The 
islands  on  the  Killarney  Lakes  have  a  totally  different 
aspect,  produced  entirely  by  the  presence  of  the  arbutus 
(Arbutus  unedo').  Even  in  winter  the  leaves  are  of  a 
rich  glossy  green,  and  so  clustered  at  the  terminations 
of  the  branches  that  the  waxen,  flesh-like  flowers,  which 
hang  in  graceful  racemes,  ot*  the  rich  crimson,  straw- 
berry-like fruit,  seem  cradled  in  a  nest  of  verdure.'* 
The  Upper  Lake  is  thought  by  most  peopie  to  be  the 
finest  of  the  three.     On  the  S^  lie  the  Derrycunihy  mt 


ILELAND.  11 

ranges,  and  on  the  1.  the  high  "  Reeks."  The  Long 
Range  is  a  river,  rather  3  than  2  M.  in  length,  connect- 
ing the  Upper  with  the  Middle  Lake.  Tilings  to  note 
here :  Golmatis  Ei/e ;  The  Man  of  War ;  The  Four 
Friends,  a  group  of  islets  ;  The  Eagle's  Nest,  a  cliff 
which  towers  700  ft.  above  the  river  (the  echoes  heard 
from  this  point  are  remarkably  fine) ;  Old  Weir  Bridge^ 
an  ancient  structure,  under  which  the  water  rushes 
swiftly.  The  small  boat  is  carried  through  at  greajr 
speed,  and  floats^  into  a  still  pool  called  the  Meeti]i§ 
of  Waters,  near  Dinish  Island,  and  then  into  the 
Middle,  which  is  also  called  Muckross,  or  Tore  Lake. 
On  Dinish  Island  there  is  a  cottage  where  dinner  may 
be  had,  if  previously  ordered  from  the  hotel  in  Kil- 
larney  in  the  morning.  Tore  Cascade  can  be  visited 
from  this  point ;  but  it  will  be  better  to  take  this  iu 
conjunction  with  the  visit  to  Muckross  Abbey,  a  little 
fartlier  on.  Passing  under  Brlckeen  Bridge,  the  boat 
enters  Lough  Leaae,  or  the  Lower  Lake.  The  area 
of  this  is  about  5,000  acres ;  its  greatest  length  5  M., 
breadth  3  M.  There  are  thirty  islands,  the  principal 
one  of  which,  the  Ross,  is  the  location  of  the  last 
stronghold  in  Munster  that  surrendered  to  the  Parlia- 
mentary army.  The  castle  was  built  in  the  I4tli  cen- 
tury, by  one  of  the  O'Donoghues.  The  island  of  Innls- 
fallen,  midway  in  the  lake,  is  celebrated  in  history  and 
fiction ;  and  that  keen  observer,  Arthur  Young,  said 
of  it  that  it  was  "  the  most  beautifm  in  the  king's  do- 
minions, and  perhaps  in  Europe."  The  ruins  of  the 
noted  abbey  are  pointed  out.  The  "  Annals  of  Innis- 
f alien,"  a  kind  of  universal  history  down  to  the  time  of 
St.  Patrick,  were  written  in  this  abbey  about  600  years 
ago.  The  original  copy  of  this  curious  work  is  now 
preserved  in  the  Bodleian  Library.  In  1180  the  abbey, 
mto  which  all  the  treasures  di  the  adjacent  country 


12  MUCKROSS  ABBEY. 

had  been  gathered  for  safe  keeping,  was  plundered  by 
Mildwin,  son  of  Daniel  O'Donoghue.  The  boatmen 
will  tell  the  traveller  quite  as  much  as  he  will  care  to 
hear  about  the  past  of  "  sweet  Innisfallen."  The  part 
of  the  Lower  Lake  first  entered  is  called  Glena  Bay. 
From  the  shore  near  Rabbit  Island  it  is  but  a  short 
walk  to  0^ Sullivan  s  Cascade. 

Those  who  wish  to  visit  Muckross  Abbey  on  the 
same  day  as  the  Gap  and  Lakes,  should  arrange  with 
their  boatmen  to  land  them  at  the  point  of  the  Lower 
Lake  nearest  to  it.  From  the  shore  through  the 
handsome  estate  of  Mr.  Herbert  to  the  abbey  is  but 
a  short  walk.  The  noted  ruins  are  those  of  a  ch. 
and  abbey,  founded  in  1440,  partly  restored  in  1602, 
and  still  in  decent  preservation.  In  the  ch.  are  many 
ancient  tombs ;  among  them,  those  of  the  O'Sullivans, 
McCarthys,  and  O'Donoghue  Mor.  The  arms  of  a 
gigantic  yew-tree  support  the  crumbhng  wall  of  a 
beautiful  cloister.  The  trunk  of  the  yew  is  13  ft,  in 
circumference.  Tees  are  not  exacted  here ;  but  it  is 
customary  to  give  som'ething.  Muckross  Abbey  Man- 
sion is  a  fine  example  of  the  Elizabethan  style  of  archi- 
tecture. Passing  through  Mr.  Herbert's  grounds,  the 
nsitor  is  admitted  at  a  small  wicket  (fee,  6d.)  to  the 
enclosure  witliin  which  is  the  Tore  Cascade.  Climb 
up  above  the  fall,  which  is  60-70  ft.  high,  and  look 
down  upon  it  and, out  over  the  lakes.  Yisitors  may,  if 
they  wish,  drive  or  walk  through  the  grounds  of  the 
Earl  of  Kenmare  to  Ross  Island  and  Castle.  The 
^land  is  connected  with  the  mainland  by  a  dike. 

^om  Muckross  to  Killarney  the  distance  is  about 
^f  M.  The  entire  round  trip  is  not  very  fatiguing. 
We  recommend  the  tourist  to  ride  the  first  II  M.  to 
the  Gap ;  walk  4  M.  through  the  Gap  to  Lord  Bran- 
ion's  Cottage  i  ^en  the  13  M.  across  the  lakes   to 


IRELAND.  13 

Muokross  and  the  3|  M.  into  Killarney  can  be  done 
easily  before  dark. 

Other  Excursions  froni  Killarney. — Ascent  of 
Mount  3fangerton  (2,756  ft.).  On  the  way  one 
«omes  to  the  "Devil's  Punch  Bowl,"  a  mountain  tarn 
2,206  ft.  above  the  sea  level.  It  occupies  a  basin  28 
acres  in  extent.  Charles  James  Fox  swam  around  it 
in  1772.  Ascent  of  the  Reeks :  interesting,  but  some- 
what difficult.  Journey  to  Valentia:  it  is  worth  a 
day's  ride  on  a  Jaunting-car  to  see  the  mighty  waves 
beating  against  the  rocky  cliffs  of  the  Atlantic  coast. 
The  train  from 

Killarney  to  Dublin 

(time,  7  hrs.;  fares,  34,  25,  or  16s.)  reaches  the  main 
line  at  Mallow  Junction.  Near  Mallow  are  the  ruins 
of  Kilcolman  Castle,  where  Edmund  Spenser  wrote 
the  "Faerie  Queene."  He  obtained,  in  1586,  a  grant  of 
land  from  forfeited  estates  of  the  Earl  of  Desmond, 
on  condition  that  he  should  inhabit  the  country.  In 
1597  his  castle  was  attacked  by  the  native  Irish,  to 
whom  he  had  rendered  himself  obnoxious,  and  his  in- 
fant child  perished  in  the  flames  which  destroyed  his 
home.  He  fled  to  London,  and  died  of  a  broken  heart. 
At  Limerick  Junction  main  line  from  Dublin  to  Cork 
is  intersected  by  the  Waterford  and  Limerick  line. 

Limerick  {Royal  Hotel;  Q-eorge;  Olentwortli),  on 
the  Shannon,  "the  noblest  of  Irish  rivers,"  deserves 
a  visit,  which  can  be  made  in  a  day,  including  the  re- 
turn to  the  line  to  Dublin.  Limerick  has  about 
40,000  inhab.,  and  contains  a  venerable  cathedral 
transformed  into  a  Protestant  church,  and  a  noble 
castle  built  in  King  John's  time. 

Waterford  {Adelphi;  Imperial)  merits  a  visit, 
but  is  perhaps  too  far  off  the  line  of  the  vacation 


14        WATEEFORD.  —  CASHEL.  —  DUBLIN. 

tourist.  It  is  a  handsome  town  of  23^000  inhab.,  on 
the  Suir;  and  was  tlie  scene  of  many  terrible  fights 
between  the  Irisli  and  tlie  Danes,  Between  Limericli 
Junction  and  Dubhn  there  are  many  places  of  histori- 
cal importance.  From  0001(1' s- Cross  Station  it  is  but 
5  M.  across  country  to  tlie  Rock  of  Cashel,  which 
rises  300  ft.  above  the  plain.  Gasliel  was  the  residencfe 
of  tlie  Kings  of  Munster ;  and  there  Henry  II.  received 
the  homage  of  Donald,  King  of  Limerick,  in  ]172. 
Edward  the  Bruce  also  held  a  parliament  there.  Near 
Thurles  are  the  ruins  of  Holy-Cross  Abbey,  Just 
beyond  Portaiiington  the  river  Barrow  is  crossed  on 
an  iron  viaduct  500  ft.  long.  Kildare,  "  the  city  re- 
nowned for  saints,"  is  30  M.  from  Dublin.  It  pos- 
sesses the  ruins  of  a  cathedral ;  and  the  Chapel  of  St. 
Brigid,  called  the  "Tire  House"  because  ^  is  the  sup- 
posed location  of  the  fire  which  nuns  kept  burning  night 
and  day  for  a  thousand  years  "  for  the  benefit  of  poor 
strangers,"  is  still  shown.  The  "  Ourragh,"  an  ancient 
race-course,  and  now  used  as  a  military  encampment 
and  practice  ground  for  soldiers,  is  just  beyond  Kil- 
dare. Sham  fights  are  sometimes  given  there  in  the 
summer  months.  Near  Hazelhatch  station  is  Celbridge 
Abbey,  once  the  residence  of  Swift's  "  Vanessa;" 

Dublin  and  Vicinity. 

Two  days  can  be  spent  to  advantage  in  visiting  Dub- 
lin, provided  the  weather  be  fair.  May,  June,  and 
August  are  excellent  months  for  the  visit.  But  the 
hurried  tourist  can  manage  to  secure  a  tolerable  idea  of 
the  Irish  capital  by  a  ride  of  3-4  hrs.  on  a  jaunting-car, 
or  by  half  a  day's  leisurely  walk.  Dublin  {Shelbourne 
Hotel:  Gresham,  good  but  rather  dear;  Morrison's  t 
Metropole  ;   Imperial;  Earopean  ;  Abbey ;  Royal  Com" 


IRELAND.  15 

mercial;  Edinburgh,  temperance)  is  a  city  of  420,000 
inhab.,  on  the  river  LifFej,  which  divides  it  into  two 
nearly  equal  parts,  and,  shortly  below  the  town,  widens 
into  a  fine  bay,  on  one  side  of  which  rises  the  Hill  of 
Howtli,  and  on  the  other  Killiney  Hill,  near  Kingstown. 
Those  who  do  not  dread  sudden  showers  should  engage 
an  open  car  by  the  hr.  (Is.  4d.  for  first  hr.,  and  6d.  for 
each  additional  \  hr.),  and  drive  to  the  Bank  of  Ireland, 
Trinity  College,  Dublin  Castle,  Christ's  Church  Cathe- 
dral, St.  Patrick's  Cathedral,  the  General  Post-Office, 
Nelson's  Monument,  the  Custom  House,  the  Four 
Courts,  and  finally  to  Phcenix  Park.  This  will  enable 
one  to  judge  pretty  well  of  the  main  exterior  attrac- 
tions. The  shops  in  Dublin  are  quite  as  fine  as  those 
of  London.  The  fine  mall  of  Sackville-St.,  with  its  cut- 
granite  Doric  column  to  Nelson,  121  ft.  high,  is  impos- 
ing, from  Carlisle  Bridge.  The  LifTey  is  navigable  to 
this  bridge ;  but  no  large  vessels  come  above  the 

Custom  House,  the  finest  building  in  the  city.  It 
is  a  handsome  quadrangular  structure,  the  principal  front 
of  which  faces  the  river.  Notice  the  allegorical  compo- 
sition in  the  central  portico.  It  represents  Britannia 
and  Hibernia  in  a  marine  shell,  a  group  of  merchant- 
men approaching,  and  Neptune  driving  away  famine 
and  despair.  The  dome  is  120  ft.  high,  and  bears  on  its 
summit  a  statue  of  Hope.  From  Nelso^i'"  Monument,  a 
good  view  of  the  city  and  suburbs  may  be  obtained.  Pee 
for  ascent,  6d.  The  statue  of  the  hero  is  the  work  of 
a  native  sculptor,  Thomas  Kirk ;  and  the  sum  of  ^6,856, 
which  the  memorial  cost,  was  raised  by  subscription 
among  Nelson's  Irish  admirers.  The  General  Post- 
Office  has  a  majestic  Ionic  portico,  surmounted  by 
figures  of  Hibernia,  Mercury,  and  Fidelity. 

The  Four  Courts,  on  King's  Inn  Quay,  is  the 
name  of  a  handsome  building,  in  which  are  the  Courts 


16  DUBLIN 

of  Queen's  Bench,  Chancery,  Exchequer  and  Common 
Pleas.  It  was  begun  on  the  site  of  an  old  Dominican 
monastery  in  1776,  and  was  completed  just  at  the  time 
of  the  union  of  the  two  nations.  Cost  about  ,£200,000. 
The  fapade  on  the  river  is  450  ft.  loug.  The  great  cir-^ 
cular  hall  in  the  centre  is  lighted  by  jets  of  gaSj  which 
issue  from  a  torcli  borne  in  the  hands  of  a  giganlic  figure 
of  Truth.  Ncv/  buildings  for  the  accommodation  of  the 
Land  Courts  have  recently  been  erected  near  by. 

Phoenix  Park  contains  1,750  acres,  fairly  M^ell  laid 
out.  Interestiug  reviews  of  troops  are  sometimes  held 
there.  Monuments  %7i  the  Park.  —  The  Wellington  Tes- 
timonial, erected  in  1817,  at  a  cost  of  £20,000,  by 
the  Iron  Duke^s  fellow- townsmen  of  Dublm.  This 
quadrangular,  truncated  obelisk  of  Wicklow  granite 
has  sunken  panels  on  each  side  of  its  pedestal,  contain- 
ing relievos  in  metal,  three  representing  military  pieces 
and  the  fourth  containing  the  laurel-crowned  head  of 
the  hero  himself.  The  battles  in  which  the  Duke  took 
part  are  inscribed  here,  and  the  bas-reliefs  are  made 
from  captured  cannon.  —  The  Carlisle  Memorial  Statue, 
by  Foley,  in  commemoration  of  Lord  Carlisle's  8  years 
of  vice-regency.  On  the  r.,  near  the  entrance  of  the 
park,  is  the  Military  Hospital,  and  a  little  farther  on 
the  Constabulary  Barracks.  Within  the  park  limits  the 
Lord-Lieutenaut  has  a  summer  residence.  Zoological 
Garden  (admission,  Is. ;  on  Sun.,  2d.),  not  far  away. 

On  the  S.  side  of  the  river  Liffey,  and  passmg  from 
Carlisle  Bridge,  through  Westmoreland-Si,  at  the  E. 
side  of  which  there  is  a  statue  of  Tom  Moore,  one 
comes  to  the  Bank  of  Ireland,  in  College  Green.  This 
was  once  used  as  the  Parliament  House.  It  was  eom- 
pleticd  in  1787,  at  a  cost  of  £95,000,  but  was  purchased 
m  1802  by  the  company  of  the  Bank  of  Ireland  for 
£40,000  and  an  annual  rental  of  £240.      The  entrance 


IRELAND.  17 

to  the  lormer  House  of  Lords  was  by  a  portico  on  the 
E.  side.  The  House  of  Lords  (visitors  admitted)  re- 
mains unaltered,  except  that  a  statue  of  George  III. 
occupies  the  site  of  the  throue.  Old  tapestries,  rep- 
resenting the  ''  Siege  of  Derry  "  and  "  King  William 
Crossing  the  Boyne,"  are  worthy  of  notice,  as  is  also 
the  mantel-piece  of  Kilkenny  marble.  Directly  oppo- 
site the  bank  is  Trhiity  College ;  and  on  either  side  of 
the  entrance  to  it  are  the  famous  Statues  of  Goldsmith 
and  Burke,  by  Foley.  Trinity  was  founded  in  Pope 
John  XXII.'s  time,  and  was  closed  in  Henry  VIIL's 
reign,  but  opened  again  by  Elizabeth,  who  erected  it  into 
a  corporation.  Li  1627  a  new  code  of  laws  was  framed 
for  it.  Tlie  civil  wars  of  the  Protectorate  brought  its 
fortunes  to  a  low  ebb  ;  but  James  I,  and  Charles  IL 
endowed  it  liberally.  The  institution,  which  is  open  t(* 
all  creeds,  usually  assembles  about  1,400  students,  and 
has  educated  some  of  the  most  renowned  of  modern  wits. 
The  Museum  contains  Brian  Boroilime's  harp  and  the 
«harter-horn  of  King  O'Kavanagh ;  the  noble  dining- 
hall  is  decorated  with  portraits  of  Grattan,  Lord  Avon- 
more,  Chief  Justice  Downs,  Flood,  Lord  Kilwarden, 
Prince  I'rederick,  father  of  George  III.,  and  Lord 
Cairns.  Hewitson's  fine  monument  to  Provost  Bald- 
win, in  the  building  on  the  r.  of  the  first  courtyard, 
should  be  seen.  The  library  contains  nearly  300,000 
volumes,  and  in  the  E.  end  is  a  very  valuable  collection 
known  as  the  "Fagel  Library."  Note  the  Geological- 
Museum  and  Lecture  Rooms,  in  College  Park.  On 
College  Green  there  is  an  equestrian  statue  in  lead  of 
William  III.,  erected  in  1701 ;  and  a  statue  of  Grattan. 
Dublin  Castle  requires  but  slight  notice.  Nearly 
all  trace  of  its  original  design  is  now  lost.  The  Vice- 
regal Chapel  and  Apartments,  St.  Patrick's  HaU,  the 
Portrait  Chamber,  and  the  Private  Drawing  Uoom  ar9 


18  DUBLIN. 

shown  i3y  ine  attendants  for  small  gratuities,  except 
during  "  the  season."  The  stained-glass  windows  of 
the  chapel  contain  the  arras  of  all  the  Lord-Lieutenants, 
Good  music  in  this  chapel  Sunday  forenoons.  Band 
plays  in  the  courtyard  mornings. 

St.  Patrick's  Cathedral  occupies  the  site  of  a  reli- 
gious edifice  built  by  St.  Patrick  himself,  near  the  well 
in  wliich  he  baptized  his  converts.  The  present  build- 
ing was  begun'  by  Archbishop  Comyn  in  1190,  and 
restored  and  much  improved,  after  the  destruction  of  a 
portion  of  it  by  fire,  under  the  care  of  Archbishop 
Minot,  in  1370.  Monuments  worth  notice  inside : 
one  to  Boyle,  Earl  of  Cork ;  and  one  to  tiie  Duke  of 
Schomberg,  with  an  epitaph  by  Swift,  who  was  long 
Dean  of  the  cathedral.  Two  marble  slabs  mark  the 
resting-places  of  Swift  and  his  "  Stella  "  (Mrs.  Hester 
Johnson).  Sir  B.  L.  Guinness,  the  brewer,  had  the 
cathedral  repaired  and  restored  in  1860-63,  at  a  cost 
of  £140,000.  The  Lady  Chapel  .wd>.^  used  by  George 
IV.  as  Chapter  House  for  the  Knights  of  St.  Patrick, 

Christ's  Church  Cathedral  is  of  ancient  founda- 
tion; but  the  present  structure  is  comparatively  modem. 
It  was  first  erected  in  1038,  and  enlarged  in  later  days 
by  Strongbow  and  Pitzstephen,  and  still  later  by  Bay- 
mond-le-Gros.  It  was  in  Christ  Church  that  the  lit- 
urgy was  first  read  in  Ireland  in  the  English  tongue. 
Note  Earl  Strongbow's  monumental  tomb.  The  local 
guides  will  tell  you  the  various  conflicting  reports  con- 
cerning its  authenticity.  This  edifice,  like  St.  Patrick's, 
owes  its  restoration  to  a  vender  of  strong  drink,  who 
expended  £200,000  on  it.  Stephen's  Green  is  a  hand- 
some square  surrounded  with  fine  mansions.  On  the 
W.  side  is  the  Royal  College  of  Surgeons,  erected  in 
1806-25.  Museum:  good  collection.  E.  side:  Royal 
College  of  Science.     In  centre  of  Green,  a  statue  of 


George  II.,  by  Yan  Nast.  S.  side  :  the  Catholic  Uni- 
versity, the  palace  of  the  Archbishop  of  Dublin,  and 
the  Slielbourne  Hotel.  On  Earlsfort Terrace  is  the  pal- 
ace ill  which  the  Dublin  Exhibition  of  1872  was  held. 
It  was  purchased  by  Sir  Arthur  and  E.  C.  Guinness, 
and  devoted  to  the  public  benefit.  It  contains  one 
concert  hall  capable  of  seating  3,000  persons. 

Other  Interesting  Sights  in  Dublin.  —  The  Roj/al 
Hibernian  Academy,  erected  in  182i  for  the  promotion 
of  the  fine  arts  (exhibition  opens  in  February ;  closes  in 
July).  The  National  Gallery,  with  a  statue  of  Dargau 
in  front  on  the  N.  side  of  Leinster  Lawn.  Merrion- 
Bow  and  Merrion-St.  :  the  house  in  which  Wellington 
was  born  in  1769  ;  and  at  30  Merrion- Square,  the 
mansion  where  Daniel  O'Connell  resided  for  some 
years.  Birthplace  of  Tom  Moore,  12  Aungier-St. 
Royal  Dublin  Society,  and  King's  and  Queen's  College 
of  Physicians,  in  Kildare-St.  The  City  Hall,  with 
Hagan's  statue  of  O'Connell  inside.  The  Corn  Ex- 
change, the  meetiug-place  of  the  National  Council  in 
1832,  and  of  the  Repeal  Association  later  on.  Con- 
ciliation  Hall,  now  a  corn  store,  but  the  scene  of  many 
of  O'Conuell's  triumphs.  Theatre  Royal,  Hawkins-St. 
The  Poplin  Manufactories :  Dublin  poplins  a.re  famous  ; 
and  the  industry  is  rapidlv  reviving. 

Excursions  from  Dublin.  — ■  To  Glasn^vin  Cem- 
etery, where  are  graves  and  line  monuments  of  O'Con- 
nell, Steele,  and  Curran,  2  M.  from  the  city.  Botanic 
Gardens,  near  by.  —  Dublin  to  Howth  :  Several  trains 
d^ily.  Distance,  9  M.  The  peninsular  Hill  of  Howth 
is  the  first  landmark  sighted  on  approaching  Dublin 
from  the  sea.  The  route  leads  past  Clontarf  the  seene 
of  Brian  Boroihme's  last  victory  over  the  Danes,  to 
Howth,  a  pleasant  village  on  the  hill.  From  the  har- 
bor an  excursion  in  boat  may  be  made  to  the  island  of 


20  DROOHEDA. —  BRAY. 

"Ireland's  lEye."  Boatman's  fee,  2s.  The  Abbey  of 
Howtli  is  pleasantly  located  on  a  steep  overhanging 
the  ocean.  On  the  Hill  of  Howth  stands  an  ancient 
Cromlech,  a  huge  oblong  stone,  about  14x12,  supported 
on  numerous  others.  It  is  supposed  to  be  a  portioi( 
of  a  sepulchral  monument  to  a  departed  chief.  — ■ 
Malahide  {Royal  Hotel),  9  M.  from  Dublin,  has  a 
notable  castle  and  abbey.  The  altar-tomb  in  the 
ruined  abbey  is  a  memorial  of  the  sad  history  of  the 
lady  who  in   one  day  was  "  maid,  wife,  and  widow," 

—  the  daughter  of  Lord  Plunkett.  —  Drogheda  (Jm- 
perial  Hotel),  1|-  hrs.  by  rail  from  Dublin.  This  was 
the  first  place  attacked  by  Cromwell  in  1649,  and  was 
carried  by  assault,  led  by  the  Protector  himself. 
Drogheda  was  also  the  scene  of  the  "  Battle  of  the 
Boyne,"  fought,  July  1,  1690,  between  the  Prince  of 
Orange  and  his  father-in-law,  James  II.  An  obelisk 
150  ft.  high  marks  the  spot  where  William  began  the 
attack  and  where  Schomberg  fell.  Prom  Drogheda, 
Tara  and  Kells  may  be  visited. 

From  Dublin  to  Braj/  and  the  Wicklow  Mts.  is  a 
charming  excursion.  Bray,  12  M.  from  Dublin  {Ma- 
rine Hotel ;  International),  beautifully  situated;  head- 
quarters for  trips  to  the  Dargle  (car,  2s.),  to  the 
Waterfall  (car,  4s.),  to  the  Glen  of  the  Downs  (car, 
3s.  6d.),  to  Greystones  (car,  4s.  6d.).  Prom  Bray  to 
the  Devil's  Glen,  the  Seven  Churches,  and  the  Vale 
of  Avoca,  where  "tlie  bright  waters  meet,"  is  a  prof- 
itable journey.  Go  by  rail  from  Bray  to  Rathnew 
Stat.,  from  Rathnew  by  car  to  Devil's  Glen,  from 
Devil's  Glen  by  car  to  the  "  Meeting  of  the  Waters,'* 
in  all  about  38  M.,  and  return  by  rail  to  Bray,  28  M. 

—  From  Bray  to  Wicklow,  along  the  coast  by  rail,  — • 
desirable  journey  in  bright  weather.  The  Wicklow 
Mt.  section  is  rich  in  quiet  beauty ;  the  rly.  fares  along 


IRELAND  21 

the  coast  are  moderate,  and  car-dp  vers  must  be  held  to 
the  tariff.  Purchase  one  of  tlie  excellent  local  guides, 
for  descriptions  of  the  scenery. 

If  the  tourist  decides  to  go  to  Wales  and  England 
via  Dubliu  and  Holyhead,  he  can  go  to  Holyhead  via 
the  North  Wall  route  for  8s.  or  4s.,  or  via  Kings- 
town for  12s.  or  8s.  We  think  most  American  tour- 
ists prefer  the  latter  route.  By  rail  from  Dublin  to 
Kingstown,  6  M.;  thence  across  the  Irish  Channel,  66 
M.,  4  Krs.  There  are  two  through  services  to  London 
daily,  —  one  leaving  Dublin  at  6.45,  evening  ;  the  other 
at  6.45,  morning.  Tourists  who  wish  to  make  the  jour- 
ney by  day  would  better  go  to  Kingstown  in  the  even- 
ing, and  sleep  on  the  boat  which  is  to  start  next 
morjiing.  This  will  cost  2s.  extra.  Then  they  can 
breakfast  at  their  leisure,  —  if  the  Irish  Channel  leaves 
thein  any  leisure. 

Kingstown  {Royal  Marine  Hotel ;  Anglesea  Arms) 
is  so  called  because  George  IV.  landed  there  on  a  visit 
to  Ireland.  An  obelisi:  commemorates  the  royal  land- 
ing. The  refuge  harbor  embraces  an  area  of  250  acres. 
Before  the  present  admirable  system  of  "Irish  Lights" 
was  completed,  many  serious  accidents  to  shipping  oc- 
curred near  Kingstown. 

We  give  a  few  fares  from  various  points  in  Ireland 
to  the  starting-points  in  England  via  Kingstown,  as 
tourists'  plans  vary  widely.  Fare  from  Queenstown 
direct  to  Liverpool,  Birkenhead,  or  Chester,  48s.,  35s. 
6d ;  from  Queenstown  to  London  direct,  69s.  6d., 
52s;  from  Dublin  to  London  direct,  60s.,  45s;  from 
Dublin  to  Liverpool,  Chester,  or  Birkenhead,  30s., 
22s.  6d.;  trom  Dublin  to  Manchester,  33s.  6d.,  25s. 
The  fares  to  all  these  places  via  the  North  Wall  route 
to  Holyhead  from  Dublin  are  considerably  lower,  — 
from   Queenstown   to  Chester,  via  North  Wall,  38s., 


22  MAYNOOTH. — AUBURN. 

28s.;  from  Dublin  to  Chester  or  Liverpool,  via  Nortl 
Wall,  20s.,  15S.1  _ 

If  the  weather  is  fine,  some  interesting  views  on  the 
Irish  and  Welsh  coasts  may  be  had  during  the  crossing 
to  Holyhead.  The  mail  packets,  Ulster,  Munsfer, 
Leinster,  and  ComiaugM^  are  remarkably  strong,  swift, 
and  spacious. 

From  Dublin  to  Galway. 

This  route  takes  one  from  the  E.  to  the  "  wild  west 
coast,"  in  5^  hrs.  (fares,  23s.  8d.,  19s.  8d.,  lis.  lOd.); 
distance,  126^  M.  Glasnevin,  where  Addison,  Swift, 
Tickell,  Sheridan,  and  other  celebrities  resided ;  and 
Maynooth,  M'here  there  is  a  castle  erected  in  1426  by 
the  Earl  of  Kildare,  and  the  Royal  College  of  St.  Pat- 
rick,—  are  interesting.  At  Mullingar  are  the  remains 
of  an  Augustine  priory.  AtJilone  is  an  important  mili- 
tary station.  Not  far  from  here  the  Shannon  is  crossed 
by  a  magnificent  bridge.  Just  beyond  Woodlawn,  the 
Connemara  Mts.  become  visible  to  the  r.  Athenry  is 
an  ancient  town,  with  ruined  castellated  gates,  walls, 
and  religious  establishments.  At  Oranmore  a  view  of 
Galway  Bay  and  the  xslands  of  Arran  may  be  obtained. 
Erom  Athlone  a  car  may  be  taken  to  Auburn,  8  M. 
(fare,  6d.  per  M.).  Auburn  is  "The  Deserted  Village  " 
of  Goldsmith,  audits  real  name  is  Lishoy;  but  since  the 
famous  Oliver  gave  it  the  name  of  Auburn,  it  has  always 
retained  it.    The  most  interesting  relic  in  the  village  is 

1  The  summer  tom-ist  in  Ireland  will  find  it  to  his  advan- 
tage to  purchase  the  monthly  time-tables  (price,  2d.)  of  the 
London  and  Northwestern,  and  Midland  Rlys.  These  ex. 
cellent  books  contain  a  great  variety  of  information  about 
circular  tours  in  Ireland,  in  connection  with  the  above-men- 
lioued  lines. 


IRELAND.  23 

khe  ruined  parsonage,  where  tbe  Rev.  Charles  Goldsmith, 
Uie  original  of  Dr.  Primrose  in  the  "  Vicar  of  Wake- 
deld,"  struggled  for  the  maintenance  of  his  large  family. 
Galway  {Railway  Hotel,  at  the  station ;  Royal) 
Is  a  quaint  old  town,  ratlier  Spanish  in  appearance,  with 
wide  gatewa^^s,  broad  stairs,  and  many  other  evidences 
of  the  predominance  of  Spanish  ideas  in  former  times. 
For  a  long  period  during  and  after  the  14tli  century,  ex- 
tensive t'-ade  was  carried  on  between  Spain  and  Galway, 
and  Irish  uierchants  made  frequent  and  protracted 
visits  to  Spain.  Some  of  the  residences  of  the  mer- 
chant princes  of  old  days  are  now  tenement  houses,  occu- 
pied by  the  very  poorest  and  lowest  class.  Queen's 
College  is  a  handsome  Gothic  structure,  built  of  gray 
limestone.  Galway  Bay  is  the  finest  in  Ireland ; 
and  tlie  distance  to  St.  Johns,  Newfoundland,  is  1,636 
M.  The  "Western  Highlands  of  Connemara, 
and  the  County  Clare,  including  the  region  rendered 
famous  by  the  troubles  of  landlords  and  tenants 
in  the  last  few  years,  abound  in  fine  scenery.  The 
road  from  Galway  to  Clifden  and  Westport,  88  M. 
(car  fares  about  i4s.  6d.),  passes  tlirough  the  most  at- 
tractive part  of  the  region.  "Westport  {Ra.ilioay  Hotel; 
Connemara)  is  a  pretty  town ;  and  the  domain  of  the 
Marquis  of  Sligo  should  be  visited.  See  Clare  Island, 
the  ancient  residence  of  Grace  O'Malley. 

Dublin  to  Belfast,  Portrush,  The  Giant's 
Causeway,  etc. 

In  leaving  Dublin  for  this  excursion,  the  trareller 
must  consider  whether  he  intends  to  return  to  Dublin 
and  cross  to  England  via  Kingstown  and  Holyhead,  or 
to  cross  from  Belfast  to  Glasgow  or  Liverpool  or 
rieetwood.   If  he  means  to  come  back  to  Dublin,  let  him 


24  GIANT'S  CAUSEWAY. 

proceed  thence  directly  to  Portrush,  which  is  the 
nearest  station  to  The  Giant's  Causeway,  Dunluce 
Castle,  etc.  The  fare  to  Portrush  (180  M.)  is  32s., 
23s.  8d.,  14s.  9d.  The  route  is  by  Malahide;  The 
SJierries,  where  Saint  Patrick  is  said  to  have  taken 
shelter  when  he  was  pursued  by  the  Druids ;  Bal- 
triggan,  famous  for  its  stocking  factories;  Drog- 
heda;  Dundalk,  where  Edward  Bruce  was  crowned 
King  of  Ireland;  Portadown  Junction;  Lurgan,  a 
flourishing  town  engaged  in  linen  manufactories; 
Belfast;  Antrim,  not  far  from  Lough  Neagh; 
and  Coleraine,  long  noted  for  the  fineness  of  its 
linens. 

Portrush  {Northern  Counties  Railway;  Osborne's; 
LeeJc's;  Portrush)  is  a  pleasant  watering-place.  The 
Causeway  may  be  reached  by  the  electric  tramway 
passing  through  Bushmills,  or  by  jaunting-car.  On 
the  way  the  tourist  passes  Dunluce  Castle,  unques- 
tionably one  of  the  most  picturesque  ruins  in  Europe. 
It  is  3  M.  from  Portrush,  on  an  insulated  rock  about 
100  feet  above  the  sea.  The  surface  of  the  rock  is 
entirely  covered  by  the  ruins  of  what  must  have  been 
an  impregnable  stronghold.  A  single  wall,  not  more 
than  18  inches  broad,  connects  the  castle  with  the 
mainland.  Sea  view  very  fine  here.  Fee,  6d.  to  Is., 
according  to  size  of  party.  "  The  White  Rocks,"  in 
which  there  are  many  fantastic  caverns,  are  not  far 
from  Dunluce. 

The  Giant's  Causeway. — On  arriving  engage 
guide  at  the  Causeway  Hotel.  The  basaltic  rocks  are 
abundant  along  the  coast  here,but  the  most  interesting 
formations  occur  between  Portcoon  Cave,  on  the  W., 
and  Dunseverick  C&stle,  on  the  E.  If  the  tourist  has 
time,  he  should  take  the  circuit  first  in  a  boat,  and  then 
visit  the  more  important  of  the  curiosities  by  land. 
See  the  Causeways.  Little,  Middle,  and  Great  ;  the 
Giant's  Gateway ;  Giant's  Organ ;  Chimney  Tops;  t^^e 


IRELAND.  25 

Priest  and  his  Flock ;  the  Pleaskin ;  and  the  Hen  and 
Chickens.  There  is  a  route  from  the  Giant's  Cause- 
way to  Belfast  by  the  coast  road,  recommended  only 
to  those  in  no  hurry.  A  whole  day  must  be  given  to 
the  trip  from  Portrush  to  the  Causeway  and  return. 

Londonderry  {Jury^s  Hotel;  Imperial;  Commer- 
cial; City ;  Northern)  is  on  the  river  Foyle.  Me- 
morials of  the  historic  "Siege  of  Derry"  are  numer- 
ous. Ascend  the  tower  of  the  Cathedral.  The  old 
walls  of  the  town  are  still  preserved  as  a  promenade. 
From  Londonderry  to  Portrush  it  is  2  hrs.  by  rail 
(7s.  6d.,  5s.  Od.,  os.  8d) ;  from  Portrush  to  Belfast  it 
is  3  to  4  hrs.  (12s.,  8s.,  5s,  4d.). 

Belfast  {Imperial;  Prince  of  Wales;  Royal)  will 
remind  American  visitors  of  some  of  our  own  thriv- 
ing manufacturmg  towns;  and  the  contrast  between 
its  smartness  and  vivacity  and  the  dulness  and 
languor  of  cities  in  the  South  of  Ireland  will  be 
remarked  at  once.  In  40  years  the  population  has 
increased  from  87,000  to  260,000.  Two-thirds  of 
the  inhabitants  are  Protestants.  The  town  stands 
on  the  property  of  the  Marquis  of  Donegal;  and  it  is 
said  that  hut  for  long  leases  granted  by  the  former 
proprietor,  the  income  of  that  nobleman  from  the 
town  ahme  would  amount  to  £300,000.  Belfast  is 
situated  on  the  Lagan,  near  the  elongated  bay  known 
as  Belfast  Lough.  The  port  is  130  M.  from  Glasgow, 
and  156  M.  from  Liverpool.  The  Irish  name  of 
the  town  signifies  "the  mouth  of  the  ford."  The 
new  docks  are  very  fine.  On  the  Queen's  Island 
is  an  iron  shipbuilding  yard,  employing  nearly 
2,000  hands.  The  White  Star  steamships  are  built 
there.  Buildings  to  notice :  Presbyterian  Ch.,  Rose- 
niary-St. ;  Payed  Academical  Institution  and  Crovern- 
ment  School  of  Art;  Covi7nercial  Buildings;  Ulster 
Bank;  Belfast  Bank;  Custom  House,  High-St.,  and 


26  BELFAST. 

Albert  Square ;  the  Harbor  Office ;  the  Linen  Hall^ 
with  the  Belfast  Librari/  ;  Queen's  College,  reached  bj 
the  Botanic  Road ;  Presbyterian  College^  University 
Square  ;  Methodist  College.  Other  things  to  see  :  Bo- 
tanic Gardens,  the  Cooke  statue,  Belfast  Museum,  and 
The  Flax  Mills  and  Linen  Warehouses,  Visitors  are 
readily  admitted  to  most  of  the  mills. 

Excursions  from  Belfast.  —  To  Cave  Hill ;  to  the 
Giant'' s  Ritig  ;  to  Dimdalk  ;  to  Bangor,  the  cliief  water- 
ing-place for  the  inhabitants  of  Belfast ;  and  to  Lord 
Dutierin's  estate  of  Clandeboye,  9  M.  from  the  city. 

The  traveller  now  has  liis  choice  of  various  route* 
for  leaving  Ireland.  If  he  desires  to  go  direct  from 
Belfast  to  Greenock  or  Glasgow,  he  can  do  so  by  the 
Hoyal  Mail  Steamship  Line,  daily  service  (Sun.  ex- 
cepted); time,  8  hrs.;  fare,  12s.  6d.  T.^je  routes  by  sea 
from  Belfast  to  Liverpool  and  to  London  can  only  be 
recommended  to  those  who  have  a  passion  for  sea 
travel  Pare  to  Liverpool,  12s.  6d.;  to  London,  25s. 
A  boat  leaves  Belfast  every  evening  (Srn.  exce;^ted), 
at  7.45,  for  Barrow-in-Furness;  fare,  12s.  6d.  Through 
tickets  to  London  (45s.  6d.  or  21s.  3d.,  by  the  Mid- 
land Rly.,  1st  and  3d  class  only)  are  also  sold,  by  this 
Barrow  route,  from  various  points  along  whicii  the 
English  Lake  Region  may  be  visited. 

Ireland  covers  32,393  square  M.,  a  little  less  than 
Maine,  South  Carolina,  and  Indiana ;  and  has  upwards 
of  5,000,000  inhab.,  |  of  whom  are  Roman  Catholics. 
It  was  Christianized  by  St.  Patrick,  in  432.  Perpetual 
civil  wars  raged  from  the  8th  to  the  12th  century.  Id. 
1172  England  conquered  much  of  Ireland,  and  discon- 
tent has  been  chronic  ever  since. 


NORTH  WALES.  27 


NORTH  WALES. 

TTOIiYHEAD  {JSF.-Western)  affords  a  picturesque 
•^  introduction  to  some  of  the  most  romantic  por- 
tions of  Wales.  Those  not  obh'ged  to  proceecl  at 
once  to  Chester,  Liverpool,  or  London,  can  spend 
2-3  days  with  pleasure  and  profit  at  points  along  the 
line.  Holyhead  stands  on  Holy  Island,  divided  by 
a  small  strait  from  Anglesea,  and  takes  its  name 
from  a  monastery  founded  in  the  6th  century.  Good 
view  from  the  hill  of  the  rocky  shores,  the  harbor  of 
refuge,  and  the  massive  breakwater.  The  promon- 
tory of  the  head  is  hollowed  by  the  ocean  into 
caverns,  which  afford  shelter  to  myriads  of  seafowl. 
There  are  important  Roman  remains  here.  The  Ch. 
was  erected  in  Edward  III.'s  time.  The  neighboring 
island  of  Anglesea,  rich  in  minerals,  was  a  principal 
seat  of  Druidical  superstition.  It  was  conquered 
with  the  rest  of  Wales  by  Edward  L  The  Britannia 
Tubular  Bridge,  one  of  the  wonders  of  Great 
Britain,  is  crossed  about  21  M.  from  Holyhead. 
This,  as  well  as  the  Menai  Bridge,  may  be  visited 
from  Bangor.  Engineers  will  be  interested  in  the 
Conway  and  Britannia  bridges,  and  in  noting  how 
the  idea  that  budded  in  the  first  structure  has  fully 
blossomed  in  the  later  and  larger  one.  See  Smiles's 
*'  Lives  of  the  Engineers  "  for  a  description  of  the  man- 
ner in  which  the  two  Stephensons  worked  out  their 
thought;  how  "the  great  originator  of  the  railway 
system  watched  with  pleased  attention  the  processes 
by  which  the  son  made  quite  certain  of  each  step." 
The  vast  tubes  were  not  placed  where  they  now  rest 
without  enormous  painstaking  and  trouble.  One  of 
the  spans  is  472  ft.  in  length,  and,  as  it  is  composed 


28  BANGOR. 

entirely  of  iron,  expands  and  contracts  with  the  changes 
of  temperature.  To  meet  the  difficulty,  the  ends  of 
the  tubes  rest  on  movable  rollers,  and  thus  maintain 
the  line  of  rail  perfect.  The  Britannia  Bridge^  is 
more  than  100  ft.  above  the  water-level.  The  Menai 
Suspension  Bridge,  1  M.  nearer  Bangor,  is  also  a  stu- 
pendous work.  Its  greatest  span  from  point  to  point" 
is  560  ft.,  and  its  elevation  above  the  water-way  at 
tlie  higliest  tide  is  100  ft.  It  is  the  longest  suspension, 
bridge  in  England  or  Wales.  It  was  built  in  the  old 
coaching  days,  in  the  early  part  of  the  century.  After 
crossing  this  bridge,  you  have  left  the  island  of  An- 
glesea  and  are  on  the  mainland. 

Bangor  {(jfeorge;  Railway;  Williams'  Temper- 
ance ;  Castlr)  lies  in  a  valley  between  two  gi'eat  rocky 
ridges.  On  tbe  N.  is  the  pretty  bay  of  Beaumaris.  See 
Cathedral,  with  monuments  of  numerous  Welsh  prin- 
ces; the  palace  of  the  Bishop  of  Bangor,  and  cliaritable 
institutions ;  and  walk  to  the  Menai  Bridge.  Mt, 
scenery  fine.  The  cathedral  was  built  in  the  6th 
century,  destroyed  by  the  Anglo-Normans  in  the  11th, 
rebuilt  in  the  12th,  and  burned  by  Owen  Gwyndwr  in 
1403.  The  present  structure  dates  from  the  16tli  cen- 
tury, and  is  a  massive  construction,  with  a  tower  o. 
moderate  heiglit.  Bangor  is  in  the  oldest  diocese  in 
Wales.  In  the  vicinity  is  a  slate  quarry  of  immense 
extent,  in  which  as  many  as  2,000  persons  are  dt  times 

1  The  Tubular  Bridge  cost  £620,000.  It  is  1,500  ft.  ..in 
length,  and  raised  sufficiently  liigh  to  allow  ships  with  high- 
est masts  to  pass  beneath  it.  It  consists  of  a  wrought-iron 
tube  made  of  plates  riveted  together,  1,513  ft.  long.  1,800 
men  were  employed  for  4  years  on  its  construction.  The 
tube^p  were  first  riveted  together,  floated  out  on  pontoons, 
and  then  raised  into  their  places  by  hydraulic  pressure.  The 
whole  weight  is  over  10.000  tons.,  ^ 


NORTH  WALES.  29 

employed.  See  the  castle  of  Lord  Penrhyn,  in  whose 
family  the  quarries  are  owned.  70,000  tons  of  slate 
are  yearly  shipped  from  Fort  Fenrhyn. 

The  rly.  now  skirts  the  shore  of  Beaumaris  Bay ; 
passes  through  Fenmaenmawr,  near  which  is  a  mt.  of 
the  same  name,  1,540  ft,  high;  through  the  Penbach 
Tunnel;  and,  just  before  reaching  Conway,  traverses 
the  Conway  Tubular  Bridge,  erected  by  Stephenson 
in  1848.  It  consists  of  two  hollo^w  rectangular  tubes 
of  wrought-iron  plates,  for  the  up  and  down  trains, 
each  measuring  400  ft.  and  weighing  1140  tons. 
Con-way  {Castle  Hotel)  has  a .  castle  which  entitles 
it  to  the  American  pilgrim's  earnest  attention.  This 
superb  ruin  is  situated  on  a  rock,  guarded  on  two 
sides  by  the  Conway  River.  It  was  built  by  Edward  I. 
During  the  civil  wars  this  oblong  fortress,  flanked  by 
eight  embattled  towers,  was  garrisoned  for  the  King, 
But  the  Parliamentary  army  took  it.  Charles  II.  gave 
it  to  the  Earl  of  Conway,  who  stripped  off  the  precious 
stores  of  timber,  iron,  and  lead.  It  now  belongs  to  the 
Marquis  of  Hertford.  The  massive  walls  of  the  town, 
with  their  towers  and  gateways,  are  still  in  good  condi- 
tion. Among  the  odd  old  houses  in  Conway  is  one 
erected  in  1577  by  Robert  Wynne,  which  is  worth  a 
visit.  In  the  Ch.  there  are  several  monuments  to 
members  of  the  Wynne  family.  See  The  College  in 
Castle-St.,  now  inhabited  by  poor  families.  On  the 
S.  E.  side  of  Great  Orme's  Head,  4  M,  by  rail  from 
Conway,  is  the  fashionable  watering-place  of  Llan- 
dudno. 

Tourists  who  have  a  few  clays  to  spend  in  North 
Wales  can  make  a  variety  of  interesting  excursions 
from  Bangor  or  Conway.  From  the  former  point  they 
may  visit  Caernarvon  (Hotel :  Royal  Sportsman),  an 
ancient  tcwn,  situated  partly  on  the  Menai  Strait  and 


so  CAERNARVON.  —  SNOWDON. 

partly  on  the  estuary  of  the  Seiont.  Caernarvon's  chief 
object  of  interest  is  the  castle  erected  by  Edward  I, 
There  Edward  II.,  the  first  Euglish  Prince  of  Wales 
was  born.  The  external  walls  of  the  castle  are  nearly 
10  ft.  thick.^  Near  the  Seiont  formerly  stood  a  strong 
fort,  long  a  residence  of  the  British  princes.  The  view 
from  the  Eagle  Tower  is  remarkably  good.  See  the 
Terrace,  outside  the  town  walls,  also  Dniidical  circles 
in  the  neighborhood.  It  is  not  quite  9  M.  by  rail  from 
Bangor  to  Caernarvon,  and  in  good  weather  a  tramp 
along  the  highway  between  the  two  towns  will  be  found 
enjoyable.  From  Caernarvon  the  Snowdonian  region  is 
easy  of  access.  Roman  rains  abound  in  the  vicinity; 
see  site  of  the  Roman  station  of  Segontium.  Llanberis, 
from  which  point  Snowdon  (3,571  ft.  high)  may  be 

1  Caei'narvou  Castle,  says  an  historian,  is  a  "  stupendous 
monument  of  ancient  grandeur."  It  occupies  the  whole  W. 
end  of  the  town.  Some  years  ago  it  seemed  as  if  fast  going 
to  ruin ;  its  ivy-clad  walls  appeared  to  be  yielding  to  the 
ravages  of  time,  yet  withal  retaining  a  romantic  singularity 
of  their  own  ;  and  in  1828  the  Eagle  Tower —  the  largest  of 
all  —  was  struck  by  lightning,  which  cracked  the  walls  sev- 
eral yards,  and  displaced  large  masses  of  stone.  But  great 
pains  have  since  been  taken  to  restore  the  fabric ;  and  it 
stands  before  us  to-day  a  grand  and  beautiful  structure.  On 
two  sides  it  is  washed  by  the  sea,  on  the  third  it  was  of  yore 
protected .  by  a  ditch,  and  on  the  fourth  it  was  shut  in  by 
the  town.  Caernarvon  is.  probably  only  about  \  M.  from 
the  site  of  Segontium,  the  principal  Roman  station  in  North 
Wales.  The  castle  became  the  headquarters  of  the  English  ' 
after  the  Conquest  by  Edward,  and  here  he  had  the  treasury 
for  the  taxes  exacted  from  his  Welsh  subjects.  The  Eagle 
Tower  —  so  named  from  the  figure  of  the  bird  standing  on 
the  summit — occupies  one  end  of  the  oblong  court,  and  has 
^'^ree  turrets  rising  from  it 


NORTH  WALES.  51 

ascended,  is  reached  by  rail  from  Caernarvon.  Llanberis 
and  Nant  Ffrancon  are  two  of  the  finest  passes  in 
Wales,  and  the  latter  is  especially  beautiful.  The  road 
through  it  winds  under  frowning  precipices  ;  and  Lake 
Ogwen's  inky-black  water  breaks  through  a  chasm 
in  the  rock  into  numerous  cascades,  some  of  them  100 
ft.  high,  that  find  their  way  into  the  rich  vale  extending 
N.  to  Bethesda  and  Bangor.  A  good  trip  would  be 
from  Bangor  to  Caernarvon ;  thence  to  Llanberis  and 
through  the  Pass  to  Capel  Curig ;  thence  to  Bett-ws- 
y-Coed,  tlie  "  Station  in  the  Wood,"  a  delicious  sylvan 
retreat,  where  Coe  painted  some  of  his  most  beautiful 
pictures.     Near  by  are  the  Falls  of  the  Comoay. 

Returning  to  the  main  line,  the  tourist  will  find  but 
two  or  three  other  points  worthy  notice  between  Con- 
way and  Chester.  Abergele  {Bee  Hotel')  is  near 
Cave  Hill,  where  there  is  a  fine  natural  cavern ;  and 
the  mt.-pass  in  which  the  Welsh  defeated  Harold 
and,  later  on,  massacred  the  troops  of  Henry  II.  Mrs. 
Hemans  lived  for  many  years  at  Abergele.  In  1868  a 
frightful  rly.  accident,  by  which  33  persons  were  burned 
to  death,  occurred  near  this  stat.  RhyJ  {Queen's 
Hotel ;  Bel  voir)  is  a  pretty  watering-place.  A  branch 
rly.  runs  thence  to  the  little  Welsh  cathedral-town  of 
Si.  Asaph;  and  to  Denbigh,  a  venerable  hill-town 
with  many  very  quaint  old  houses,  and  a  stately  ruined 
castle,  on  the  hill.  At  Holywell  the  famous  St.  Wini- 
fred's Well  is  to  be  seen.  Flint  Castle,  on  a  rock  by 
the  sea,  was  once  the  prison  of  Richard  II.  13  M, 
beyond  the  train  crosses  the  Dee,  leaving  Wales. 


32  CHESTER. 


ENGLAND. 

CHESTER  {Grosvenm-  Hotel ;  Queem^s,  at  the  rly 
Stat.;  Blossom's ;  and  others  more  or  less  ^oorl'i 
The  curious  features  of  this  dehghtful  town  may  be 
seen  in  a  single  day  (or,  with  the  aid  of  a  carriage,  is 
3-4  hrs.).  The  traveller  who  has  not  already  made  uj 
liis  mind  should  here  decide  whether  he  will  go  directlj 
to  London,  or  N.  to  the  English  Lakes,  and  thence  to 
Scotland.  To  those  who  contemplate  making  an  ex- 
tensive tour  on  the  Continent,  and  returning  to  the 
British  Islands  only  late  in  September  or  October,  we 
would  recommend  a  trip  from  Chester  to  Liverpool, 
and  thence,  after  having  seen  the  sights  in  that  city  and 
in  Chester  and  vicinity,  direct  to  the  English  Lakes  and 
Scotch  mts.  But  many  persons  will  probably  like  to 
go  to  London  and  the  Continent  at  once,  for  a  season, 
returning  N.  in  August  and  resuming  our  English  and 
Scotch  itinerary/  from  Chester  or  Liverpool. 

Ancient  Chester,  on  its  pretty  eminence,  is  suf&- 
ciently  quaint  and  filled  with  ruins  to  satisfy  the  most 
curious  of  Transatlantic  travellers.  Some  kind  of  town 
existed  on  this  site  before  the  Roman  invasion,  but  it 
■was  the  Romans  who  made  the  definite  foundation. 
They  chose  this  place  as  one  of  their  principal  military 
stations,  called  it  the  "  City  of  the  Legions,"  and  made 
it  the  castra  of  the  Twentieth  Legion.  Vast  walls  still 
•occupy  the  same  ground  and  carry  out  the  identical  plan 
ichosen  and  arranged  by  the  Roman  leaders.  Chester 
was  laid  waste  in  the  early  part  of  the  7th  century  by 
jEthelfrith,  King  of  the  Northumbrians  :  and  then  the 
memorials  of  the  Roman  sojourn  were  greatly  injured. 
Tor  nearly  three  centuries  Chester  lay  in  ruins,     .^in 


ENGLAND.  SS 

907  Alfred  the  Great's  daughter,  Ethelfleda,  restored 
the  ruined  walls  which  the  Danes  had  from  time  to 
time  used  as  temporary  strongholds ;  and  from  that 
day  Chester  became  important  in  English  history.  It 
was  the  very  last  city  to  hold  out  against  WilUam  the 
Conqueror ;  and  a  nephew  of  tiie  great  Norman  was 
made  Earl  of  Chester,  and  built  a  castle  there.  Ches-) 
ter  was  especially  prominent  in  the  Civil  War  as  the 
first  city  to  declare  for  Charles,  and  the  last  to  yield  to 
the  Parliamentary  forces. 

A  Walk  around  the  Old  Walls  may  be  begun  at 
East  Gate,  near  the  Grosvenor  or  Blossom's  Hotel. 
Going  N.  one  comes  first  to  the  Cathedral  (described 
below).  Next  beyond  it,  at  the  angle  of  the  walls 
vrhere  they  turn  W.  to  the  North  Gate,  is  the  Phcenix 
Tower,  on  which  Charles  I.  stood  during  the  battle  of 
Rowton  Moor  and  gazed  on  the  defeat  of  his 
army,  Sept.  24,  1645.  See  inscription.  Under  the 
oralis  at  this  point  is  the  Shropshire  Union  Canal,  cut 
In  the  solid  rock.  Moving  on  towards  the  North 
Gate,  the  original  Roman  walls,  terminating  in  a  cor- 
nice 6  ft.  below  the  parapet,  may  be  seen.  From  this 
gate  there  is  an  extensive  view  of  the  Welsh  mts.  and 
of  Waverton  and  Christleton  chs.  Just  outside  the 
gate  is  an  ajicient  Blue  Coat  Hospital.  A  little  far- 
ther on,  from  a  square  building  on  the  r.  side  of  the 
wall,  there  is  a  view  of  the  river  and  the  sea,  Elint 
Castle,  the  Training  College,  etc.  Anotlier  tower, 
once  know^n  as  the  Goblin's,  but  now  called  Peinber- 
ton's  Parlor,  comes  next.  It  beais  a  mutilated  inscrip- 
tion about  the  "  glorious  reign  of  Anne."  The  Water 
Tower,  as  its  name  indicates,  was  once  closely  ap- 
proached by  ships  ;  but  the  river  is  now  a  long  way 
from  the  walls.  This  part  of  the  fortifications  was 
bombarded  by  Cromwell  in  1645,     Within  the  tower 


34  CHESTER. 

I      ■ 

is  a  museum  ;  on  its  summit,  a  telescope.  See  railway 
viaduct  and  iron  bridge  over  the  Dee,  near  this  point. 
The  City  Jail  is  an  imposing  structure.  From  the 
Water  Gate  note  the  Rhoodee  race-course,  and  beyond* 
the  river  the  line  villas  of  Cui:^cn  Park.  Grosvenov 
Bridge,  which  spans  the  stream,  has  a  span  of  200  ft, 
Over  the  river,  in  Edgar  s  Field,  is  a  statue  of  Pallas. 
The  Castle,  next  approached,  is  a  noble  pile,  erected  in 
the  last  century  on  the  site  of  the  ancient  one.  "  Csesar's 
Tower  "  is  the  only  remnant  of  the  old  structure.  See 
near  the  Castle  the  Combermere  Monument  and  the 
Shire  Hall.  Drill  in  the  Castle  yard  afternoons. 
Walk  on  over  the  Bridge  Gate,  rebuilt  in  1782,  to 
l^ew  Gate  (1608),  and  tlience  to  East  Gate.  Outside 
the  walls,  between  Bridge  and  East  Gates,  is  the  Ch. 
of  St.  John  the  Baptist,  founded  in  689,  and  rebuilt 
in  1574. 

*The  Cathedral  was  begun  in  the  12th  century, 
and  the  choir  and  central  tower  were  finished  in  the 
early  years  of  the  13th.  The  lady  chapel,  refectory, 
and  chapter-house  are  said  to  have  been  constructed 
1200-1230.  Many  portions  were  greatly  altered  in 
the  period  between  1485  and  1537.  The  ch.  is  almost 
entirely  built  of  red  sandstone,  plentiful  in  the  district. 
The  restorations  carried  on  for  several  years  past 
liave  proved  highly  successful.  The  E.  portion  is  an 
excellent  example  of  Early  English  style.  The  choir  is 
be^tiful :  note  the  Gothic  work  at  the  sides ;  also  the 
richly  carven  Gothic  screen  of  stone,  which  separates 
the  nave  from  the  choir ;  the  bishop's  throne,  formed 
by  the  shrine  of  St.  Werburgh  of  miraculous  mem- 
ory ;  and  the  black  and  white  marble  pavement  in  the 
choir.  The  W.  front,  though  unfinished,  is  the  best. 
The  lector's  pulpit  in  the  refectory ;  the  colors  of  the 
22d  Cheshire  regiment,  carried  at  Bunker  Hill,  in  the 


ENGLAND,  35 

chapter-house;  and  the  great  W.  window  of  the  nave, 
should  be  remarked.  The  stained-glass  windows  are 
modern.  The  cathedral's  interior  is  not  so  imposing 
IS  its  exterior.  Tradition  says  that  a  Roman  temple  to 
Apollo  once  stood  on  the  site.  The  foundation  of  two 
towers,  never  completed,  was  laid  in  1508.  The  Rows, 
covered  avenues  or  galleries  through  the  fronts  of  the 
second  stories  of  the  houses  iii  Eastgate,  Watergate, 
Northgate,  and  Bridge  Sts.  (the  old  Roman  ways),  are 
one  of  the  most  striking  features  of  Chester.^  Old 
Houses,  remarkable  for  their  curious  carvings  and  for 
historical  associations,  are  very  numerous  in  Chester. 
Note  the  palace  of  the  Earls  of  Derby,  near  the  Water 
Gate ;  and  on  Lower  Bridge-St.,  leading  from  Bridge 
Gate,  the  house  in  which  Charles  I.  resided  during  the 
siege.  A  Roman  sweating-bath  may  be  seen  in  one  of 
the  houses  of  the  Bridge-St.  Row.  There  are  several 
Roman  crypts,  a  thousand  years  old,  beneath  the  an- 
cient buildings. 

Eaton  Hall,  one  of  the  country-seats  of  the  Duke 
of  Westminster,  is  3  M,  from  Chester.  Tickets  of  ad- 
mission to  the  grounds  and  mansion  may  be  had  for 

^  Pennant  says  :  "  These  Rows  appear  to  me  to  have  been 
the  same  with  the  ancient  vestibules,  and  could  have  been  a 
I  form  of  building  preserved  from  the  time  that  the  city  was 
I  possessed  by  the  Romans.  They  were  the  places  where  de- 
'  pendants  watched  for  tbe  coming  out  of  their  patrons,  and  in 
i  which  they  might  walk  away  the  tedious  minutes  of  expecta- 
'  tion.  Plautus,  in  the  third  act  of  his  Mostellana,  describes 
j  both  their  station  and  use.  The  shops  beneath  the  Rows 
]  were  the  cryptee  and  apothecse,  magazines  for  the  various 
I  necessaries  of  the  oAvners  of  the  houses."  Many  of  the  Rows 
(  to-day  form  two  terraces,  the  shops  one  above  the  other, 
the  galleries  being  reached  by  flights  of  steps  at  convenient 
j    lUstances. 


36  .  LIVEKPOOL. 

a  small  sum  at  the  Grosvenor  Hotel  and  of  tlie  news- 
dealers.  The  house  is  an  elaborate  structure,  with  a 
great  number  of  pinnacles  and  turrets,  and  is  460  ft. 
long.  The  walk  thither,  over  Grosvenor  Bridge  and 
through  the  Park,  entering  by  a  gateway  copied  from 
the  Abbey  Gate  at  Canterbury,  is  very  interesting. 
The  marble  floor  in  the  entry  alone  cost  1,600  guineas. 
There  are  a  few  noticeable  paintings  at  Eaton  Hall. 

Liverpool. 

From  Chester  important  hues  of  railway  radiate  K 
all  directions.  The  traveller  may  proceed  to  Liver^ 
pool,  via  Runcorn,  crossing  the  celebrated  Runcorn^ 
Bridge  ^  and  its  viaducts,  and  arriving  at  the  Lime-St. 
terminus  of  the  London  and  Northwestern  Railway 
(fare,  3s. ;  time,  a  little  more  than  half  an  hour)  ;  or 
he  may  go  from  Chester  to  Birkenhead,  and  cross  from 
this  latter  place  to  Liverpool  by  ferry  (lime  and  fare 
about  the  same,  but  scenery  uninteresting)  ;  or  he  may 
walk  through  Eastham,  Bebington,  etc.,  to  Rock 
Eerry,  and  there  cross  to  Liverpool.  We  recommend 
the  walk  to  Chester  yro/«  Liverpool  for  those  who  have 
made  their  first  entry  into  Europe  at  the  great  seaport. 
If  Liverpool  has  somewhat  shocked  their  sesthetic 
sense,  and  disappointed  their  expectations  of  romancxj 
in  Europe,  Chester  will  re-establish  their  enthusiasm, 

1  The  entire  length  of  this  structure  is  2 J  M.  The 
bridge  is  approached  upon  the  Runcorn  Viaduct,  carried  by 
33  arches,  I  of  23  ft.  span,  29  of  40  ft.  span,  and  3  of  61 
ft.  span.  The  viaduct  is  carried  over  the  river  Mersey  at  d 
height  of  80  ft.  by  3  girders  of  305  ft.  sj^an,  each  supported 
upon  4  castellated  piers,  stretching  over  a  distance  of  27|| 
chains.  The  total  cost  of  the  structure  was  £422,400,  of 
which  £41,800  was  paid  for  land. 


ENGLAND.  §7 

Liverpool  (Hotels:  AdelpM;  Northwestern  Rail- 
way  ;  Grand ;  Lancashire  and  Yorkshire;  Shaftes- 
bury Temperance;  Impei'ial ;  Afigel.  Restaurants: 
Sainshiiry's  Lancheoii  Rooms;  Bear's  Paw;  State; 
and  at  stations  and  hotels)  is  the  port  at  which  many 
tourists  from  the  United  States  first  land.  It  is  a 
city  of  over  650,000  inhab.,  the  second  seaport  in  the 
United  Kingdom,  and  possesses  the  finest  docks  in 
the  world.  See  the  "  Chapter  for  Travellers"  for  in- 
structions as  to  Landing  at  Liverpool.  Liverpool  is 
essentially  a  modern  town.  In  1561  it  was  a  liamlet ; 
in  1644  Prince  Rupert  called  it  "  a  crow's  nest  "  ;  but 
in  1871  it  numbered  half  a  million.  Liverpool's  im- 
portance dates  from  the  upspringing  of  the  cotton 
manufacture  in  England.  There  have  been  years  in 
which  the  value  of  its  exports  has  been  twice  as  great 
as  that  of  the  exports  from  London  ;  30,000  seamen 
constantly  throng  its  quays.  Its  public  buildings  are 
as  new  as  those  of  American  cities.  There  is  scarcely 
one  older  than  the  present  century. ' 


^  "  Liverpool  is  not  even  mentioned  in  the  list  of  towns  in 
the  Doomsday  Book  of  the  Norman  invaders.  It  is  spoken 
of  for  the  first  time  in  1172,  when  Henry  II.  made  the  con- 
quest of  L-eland,  and  embarked  his  ships  in  the  Mersey. 
Towards  1700  its  population  was  hardly  5,0"00.  The  block- 
up  of  the  Dee  at  Chester  profited  Liverpool  ;  and  its  mer- 
chants began  to  jet  rich,  above  all  in  the  slave  trade.  As 
the  painter  Fuseli  said,  when  he  was  asked  to  admire  the 
great  streets,  'the  blood  of  the  negroes  seems  to  have  fil- 
tered through  these  carven  stones.'  The  city  occupies  the 
geographical  centre  between  Great  Britain  and  Ireland.  It 
is  the  only  point  of  convergence  for  domestic  exchange  be- 
tween the  British  Islands.     This  central  position  is  also  an 


38  LIVERPOOL. 

The  Docks,  some  parts  of  which  may  be  seen 
from  the  steamers  ascending  the  Mersey,  deserve  a 
careful  visit.  Liverpool  lies  on  the  r.  bank  of  the 
river  Mersey;  opposite  it  is  the  important  town  of 
Birkenhead;  and  the  "  silent  highway  "  between  is 
thronged  with  ships  from  every  part  of  the  globe. 
The  dock  system  extends  from  the  Herculaneum 
Graving  Dock  to  the  N.  part  of  the  Hornby  Dock,  a 
distance  of  6  M.  An  electric  elevated  road,  running 
from  Seaforth  Sands  to  Dingle,  passes  by  the  whole 
line  of  docks  (3d.,  2d.).  All  intervening  space  is  filled 
with  docks  and  quays,  two  and  sometimes  three  deep. 
The  Canning,  Salthouse,  George's,  King's,  Queen's,  and 
Brunswick  Docks,  and  the  Queen's  and  Prince's  Half- 
Tide  Basins,  were  constructed  between  1717  and  1816. 
In  the  King's  Dock  and  wareliouses  are  stored  and 
bonded  immense  quantities  of  leaf  tobacco  and  cigars. 
Railways  communicate  by  tunnels  directly  with  the 
dock  system.  The  total  quay  space  of  the  Liverpool 
docks  is  estimated  at  26  M.;  of  the  basins,  8  M.; 
and  the  total  water  area  of  the  docks,  389  acres.  The 
Prince  s  Landing  Stage,  at  which  passengers  from  and 
to  America  disembark  and  depart,  is  a  noble  work.  It 
is  said  that  nearly  \  of  the  trade  of  the  port  is  with  the 
United  States.  The  town  possesses  -^  of  the  shipping 
of  Great  Britain,  \  of  the  foreign  trade,  \  of  the  gen- 
eral commerce,  and  more  than  \  as  umcli  trade  as  the 
port  of  London. 

advantage  for  foreign  commerce,  which  has  chosen  Liverpool 
for  its  depot.  Farther  than  Bristol  from  the  high  sea,  which 
is  the  road  to  America,  Africa,  and  the  Indies,  Liverpool 
overcomes  this  inferiority  hy  the  advantage  which  she  has  iu 
being  close  to  the  border  of  a  coal  basin,  which  has  become 
the  principal  seat  of  all  the  manufactures  of  the  entire 
world."     {Elisee  Reclits^ 


ENGLAND  39 

St.  George's  Hall  is  one  of  the  raost  conspicuous 
objects  in  Liverpool.  It  is  a  vast  and  imposing  struc- 
ture, completed  in  1851,  and  contains  the  Assize 
Courts,  an  immense  hall  for  public  meetings,  and  a 
concert  room.  The  portico  on  the  S.  is  very  fine.  It 
surmounts  a  pedestal  of  noble  steps,  150  ft.  wide,  ter- 
miuating  in  a  pediment,  the  tympanum  of  which  is 
enriched  by  sculptures  representing  Britannia  ofi'ering 
the  olive  branch,  with  the  lion  at  her  side  and  the 
Mersey  flowing  at  her  feet.  Mercury  is  represented 
as  leading  to  her  from  the  other  side  Asia,  Europe, 
Africa,  and  America.  In  tlie  great  hall  is  one  of  the 
largest  organs  in  the  world,  with  108  stops  and  8,000 
pipes.  See  the  bronze  doors  which  lead  to  the  -Crown 
Court.  In  front  of  St.  George's  Hall  are  statues  of 
the  Prince  Consort  and  Queen  Victoria.  Four  stone 
lions  guard  the  principal  entrance  to  the  area 
between  the  hall  and  Lime-St.  Not  far  away  is  the 
Alexandra  Theatre.  The  Wellington  Monument,  cast 
from  cannon  taken  at  Waterloo,  is  also  near  St.  George's 
Hall.  A  little  to  the  N.  is  Brown's  Free  Public  Library 
and  Museum,  built  at  the  expense  of  the  late  Su*  William 
Brown.     Near  by  is  the  Walker  Art  Gallery. 

The  Municipal  Offices,  in  Daie-St. ;  the  Town  Hall ; 
tlie  Exchange,  which  covers  two  acres,  in  the  commer- 
cial quarter,  are  handsome  edifices.  On  the  Exchange 
Flags,  where  the  merchants  meet,  stands  a  bronze 
gtatue  of  Nelson,  by  Westmacott.  St.  John's  Market, 
a  vast  structure,  is  on  Great  Charlotte-St.  The  Cus- 
tom House  and  Post-Office,  at  the  junction  of  Strand- St. 
flnd  Wapping,  has  beneath  it  extensive  vaults  for  the 
storing  of  goods  in  bond.  See  the  Sailors'  Hornet 
close  by. 


40  LIVERPOOL. 

Other  Objects  of  Interest  in  Liverpool.  —  The 

Botanic  Gardem,  in  Edge  Lane.  Tlie  Corn  Exchangty 
on  Brunswick-St.  St.  Nicholas'  Ch.,  the  only  real  an- 
tiquity in  LiverpooL  The  original  cliapel  was  built  in 
the  time  of  William  the  Conqueror.  In  old  times  a 
statue  of  St.  Nicholas,  patron  of  mariners,  stood  in  the 
yard.  The  ch.  was  restored  in  1774.  The  tower  facing 
the  S.  side  was  erected  as  one  of  a  series  of  "  signal 
steeples."  Prince's  hudL  Stanlei/  Parks  ;  from  the  latter 
a  good  view  of  the  sea  and  the  Cumberland  hills.  St. 
James's  Cemetery,  formerly  a  stone  quarry,  and  filled 
for  its  present  purpose  at  an  expense  of  ^20,000. 
The  Mausoleum  of  Huskisson  is  here.  Sefton  Park, 
purchiisecl  at  a  cost  of  £450,090  from  the  Earl  of  Sef- 
ton, Liverpool  has  expended  vast  sums  the  past  feW 
years  on  street  nnprovements ;  but  the  2^oor  quarter  is 
still  horribly  unhealthy.  A  walk  through  it  should  be 
undertaken  only  in  the  daylight  hours.  Estates  and 
Residences  of  Noblemen  near  Liverpool :  Knowsley 
Hall,  owned  by  the  Earl  of  Derby  (see  the  Stanley 
portraits  there)  ;  Croxteth  Hall,  the  Earl  of  Seftcu's 
seat ;  Childwall  Abbey,  a  residence  of  the  Marquis  of 
Sahsbury.  Excursions  may  be  made  from  Liverpool 
to  New  Brighton,  down  the  river  b}''  ferry-boat  from 
the  George's  Landing  stage;  and  to  Eastham,  a  pretty 
pleasure-resort.^ 

1  "  The  cities  crowded  together  in  the  neighborhood  of 
Liverpool  and  Birkenhead  are  very  numerous.  In  an  angle 
of  Cheshire  is  Neio  Brighton,  a  water-side  pleasure-resort. 
Toxteth  Park  is  a  suburb  situated  near  the  Mersey.  On  the 
N.  and  the  E.  are  Bootle,  Linacre,  "Walton-on-the-Hill, 
West  Dei'by,  Widnes,  Wavertree,  Prescot,  St.  Helens,  Ince, 
and  Newton-in-Makerficld.  St.  Helens  has  very  important 
glass  manufactories.  The  basin  of  the  Ribble  contains  a 
very  considerable  population.    Round  the  mouths  of  the  mines 


ENGLAND.  41 

Birkenhead  {Queen's  Hotel ;  TF«9(9cZs/^e),  an  essen- 
tially modern  town  of  about  115,000  inhab.,  is  near 
the  mouth  of  tlie  Mersey,  on  the  S.  shore  facing 
Liverpool.  Constant  communication  by  steam-ferries 
and  the  new  tunnel  under  the  Mersey.  Ship-building 
is  the  main  industry.  The  docks  cover  500  acres. 
Here  are  the  docks  of  the  Messrs.  Laird,  where  the 
Alabama  was  built.  The  Gh.,  which  overlooks  the 
river,  is  part  of  the  old  Priory  of  Byrkhed,  founded 
in  Henry  II. 's  reign. 

rise  groups  of  factories.  The  central  city  of  the  basin,  Black- 
burn, is  one  of  those  towns  black  with  smoke,  where  steam- 
engines  are  incessantly  roaring.  Clitheroe-on-the-Ribble  is 
in  the  midst  of  a  charming  country.  Between  Blackbui'u  and 
Liverpool  the  manufacturing  towns  are  close  together.  Over- 
Darwen,  Chorley,  Wigan,  Hindley,  are  but  a  stone's  throws 
from  each  other.  Not  far  from  Wigan  is  the  deepest  coal' 
mine  in  Great  Britain.  On  the  W.  of  Wigan  is  the  grea/ 
market  town  of  OrmesTcirk.  Preston,  '  proud  Preston,' 
majestically  situated  where  the  Ribble  begins  to  broaden,  i? 
the  most  populous  city  of  the  whole  basin.  It  is  at  the  samt 
time  a  manufacturing  place  of  the  first  order,  especially  foi? 
cottons.  Lancaster  is  to  the  N.,  distant  from  the  centre 
of  population.  It  is  no  longer  a  capital  except  in  name, 
although  it  still  keeps  certain  prerogatives  as  a  ducal  city. 
Built  on  the  site  of  a  Roman  military  station,  it  is  overlooked 
by  a  castle  where  there  were  many  important  ruins.  Lan- 
caster, prominent  in  so  many  events  in  the  civil  wars,  is  now 
a  peaceful  commercial  town,  wdth  numerous  cotton  factories. 
The  Fleetwood  Railway  unites  it  with  Poulton,  on  Morecambe 
Bay,  a  maritime  summer -resort.  The  town  w^hich  attracts 
most  visitors  is  Blackpool,  situated  N.  of  the  Ribble  estuary, 
on  a  hill  from  whence  the  waters  of  the  Irish  Sea  can  be 
seen." 


42  GRANGE.  —  FURNESS  ABBEY. 


The  English  Lake  District. 

Those  persons  who  desire  to  visit  the  English  Lakes^- 
and  to  proceed  thence  to  Scotland,  before  going,  as  the 
English  saj,  "up  to  London,"  will  find  Liverpool  their 
best  point  of  departui-e.  Erom  Liverpool  to  Winder- 
mere the  distance  is  87J  M. ;  and  the  fares,  25s.  6d., 
18s.  3d.,  lis.  6d.  This  route  is  through  Wigan,  Pres- 
ton, and  Lancaster  to  Oxenholme  Junction,  vi^here  & 
good  view  of  Kendal,  the  largest  town  in  Westmore- 
land, is  obtained,  and  from  Oxenholme  by  branch  rail- 
way to  Wuidermere,  whence  excursions  can  be  made 
in  all  directions.  But  vre  think  the  American  tourist 
would  find  it  interesting  to  enter  this  beautiful  re- 
gion by  another  route,  as  follows :  Take  ticket  from 
Liverpool  to  Grange  (fares,  21s.  6d.,  15s.  6d.,  10s.). 
You  pass  through  Wigan,  Pres-ton,  and  Lancaster,  and 
a  little  beyond  this  last  place  change  at  Carnforth 
Junction.  The  railway  thence  to  Grange  carries  you 
across  arms  of  Morecambe  Bay,  and  beside  wild 
stretches  of  quicksand,  where  hundreds  of  lives  have 
been  lost.  Grange  {Grange  Hotel,  a  charming  house 
on  the  slope  of  a  wooded  hill)  is  called  the  "  Torquay 
of  the  North."  Its  climate  is  mild,  even  in  winter ;  and 
it  is  a  favorite  fashionable  resort.  Castle  Head,  once  a 
Roman  station,  is  near  by.  Erom  Grange  an  excursion 
should  be  made  to  Furness  Abbey,  by  the  railway 
passing  through  Ulverston,  Lindal,  Dalton,  and  other 
points  in  the  rich  Eurness  mining  district,  and  termi- 
nating at  the  important  town  of  Barrow.  (Returzij 
ticket,  1st  class.  Grange  to  Eurness  Abbey,  5s.)  Tour- 
ists will  be  well  repaid  for  visiting  the  ruin,  and  the  ex- 
cursion may  be  made  in  an  afternoon  by  those  who  have 
left  Liverpool  for  Grange  in  the  morning.    "  The  Royal 


Abbey  of  St.  Mary  of  Furness"  was  founded  in 
1127,  in  Henry  I.'s  reign,  by  Stephen,  his  successor 
on  the  throne  of  England.  The  monks  of  the 
Cistercian  order  grew  rapidly  rich  and  powerful. 
The  abbots  of  Furness  were  lords  in  Parliament, 
and  had  their  little  army.  The  ruin  is  now  the 
property  of  the  Duke  of  Devonshire.  Admission 
to  the  grounds,  which  are  close  to  the  stat.,  free. 
The  roofless  cli.,  the  lavishly  decorated  chapter- 
house, the  scriptorium,  and  the  refectory  contain 
many  interesting  memorials.  The  E.  window  is 
preserved  in  the  sanctuary  at  Bowness  ;  it  is  a  superb 
specimen  of  mediaeval  glass-painting.  Furness  Abbey 
Hotel  is  near  the  ruins.  Along  the  rly.  lie  beds  of  hem- 
atite iron  ore,  from  which  about  600,000  tons  are  annu- 
ally taken.  From  Ulverston  {Sun  ;  County  Hotel)  , 
the  capital  of  Furness^  a  branch  line  leads  %o  Lake 
Side,  on  Windermere  Lake.  One  can  also  go  directly 
from  Furness  Abbey  or  from  Barrow  by  rail  to  the  head 
of  Coniston  Lake.  See  time-tables  of  Northwestern 
and  Midland  Railways,  and  local  guide-books,  for  a 
host  of  details  concerning  round  trips,  circular  tickets, 
etc.  Holker  Hall^  a  residence  of  the  Duke  of  Dev- 
onshire, may  be  visited  on  the  way  back  from  Fur- 
ttess  Abbey  to  Grange.  Stop  at  Cark,  and  wa^k  to 
the  Hall,  1  M.  The  Hall  and  park  are  on  the  L<3ven, 
ilowing  out  of  Lake  Windermere.  Many  charming 
walks  in  this  vicinity,  from  the  weird  Leven  Sands  up 
to  and  through  sweet  and  romantic  Holker  Village,  with 
its  cottages  nestling  among  rose-trees  and  fuchsias,  and 
on  to  Cartmel  and  its  ancient  Priory.  Holker  Hall 
contains  a  fine  collection  of  paintings,  and  the  park  is 
well  stocked  with  deer.  Levens  Hall  may  be  visited 
from  Grange      ^,t  is  on  the  E.  side  of  the  river  Kent. 


44  WINDERMERE. 

Tlie  gardens  on  the  estate  were  laid  out  by  Beaumont, 
James  II. 's  faio'^'is  gardener.  Returning  to  Grange, 
sleep  tliere,  and  ^ake  the  coach  next  morning  for  Newby 
Bridge  and  Lake  Side  (foot  of  Lake  Windermere)  at 
about  10  o'clock.  This  8  M.  drive  is  delightful.  At 
Newby  Bridge  the  time-honored  and  picturesque  Swan 
Jrrn  sliould  be  noticed.  At  Lake  Side,  wliere  the  train 
from  Ulverston  comes  in  {Lake  Side  Hotel,  very  good), 
one  may  take  the  steam -yacht  which  plies  regularly  on 
the  waters  of  Windermere,  stopping  at  the  Ferry 
(5  M.),  Bowness  (6  M.),  or  Waterhead''(ll  M.).  This 
last  is  the  stat.  for  Ambleside,  f  M.  from  the  lake ;"  and 
at  Ambleside  one  is  in  the  very  heart  of  the  Lake  region. 
(Fare  from  Grange  to  Ambleside  by  this  route,  about  5s.) 
A  party  of  four  persons  would  find  it  worth  their  while 
to  hire  a  carriage  at  Grange,  and  drive  first  to  Newby 
Bridge ;  thence  to  Lake  Side ;  then  across  from  Winder- 
mere Lake,  past  Esfhwaite  Water  (around  which  Words- 
worth used  to  walk  when  he  was  attending  school  near 
by),  through  the  old  town  of  Hawkshead,  down  to  the 
Waterhead  Quay  on  Coniston  Lake ;  and  from  that  point 
over  the  Oxenfell,  past  Skelwith  Bridge  and  Elter  Water 
and  Brathay,  into  Ambleside.  This  can  be  done  easily* 
in  5-6  hrs.,  including  stops,  and  in  fine  weather  is  a 
bewitching  journey.  The  descent  to  Coniston  and  the 
approach  to  Ambleside  aiford  two  of  the  loveliest 
views  in  England.  Make  special  bargain  for  carriage; 
driver  receives  fee  of  3s. — 3s.  6d.  We  advise  tourists 
to  hasten  to  Ambleside,  and  make  their  excursions  from 
there.  Tiie  Long  Sleddale,  Kentmere,  Troutbeck,  and 
Busland  Vales  may  be  best  visited  from  Windermere 
Yillage.  or  Bowness  ;  but  everything  else  of  importance 
is  most  accessible  from  Ambleside.^ 

1  The. traveller  will  find  pocket  editions  of  Wordswortll 
and  Southey  excellent  companions ;  also.  Prof.  Wm.  Knight'* 


ENGLAND.  45 

Windermere  Lake  is  10^  M.  long  and  1  M,  broad 

ih  its  widest  part.  It  is  184  ft.  above  the  sea-level, 
and  varies  in  depth  from  90  to  240  ft.  Opposite  Bow- 
ness  there  is  a  group  of  about  a  dozen  siuall  islands. 
The  surrounding  hills  rarely  rise  above  1,000  ft.  At 
a  few  yards  from  the  head  of  the  lake,  the  rivers 
Brathay  aud  Rothay  unite  their  waters.  There  are  no 
such  rich  effects  of  color,  no  such  bold  and  magnifi- 
cent mountain  masses,  as  on  the  shores  of  the  Swiss 
lakes  ;  but  there  is  a  bewildering  richness  of  Northern 
vegetation,  and  a  constant  succession  of  beautiful  land- 
scapes such  as  few  othe/  countries  can  boast.  (Boat, 
to  row  yourself.  Is.  an  hr. ;  with  boatman.  Is.  6d.  per 
hr.  ;  for  the  day,  with  boatman,  10s.) 

Bcwness  [Crown  Hotel ;  Royal;  Old  England)  \%  jn 
a  pleasant  bay,  and  commands  good  views  of  the  upper 
reaches  of  the  lake.  Ancient  parish  ch.  here.  Coaches 
every  raoruing  in  summer  for  Coniston;  and  for  Patter- 
dale,  by  the  Trout  beck  Va'3  and  Kirkstone  Pass. 

Windermere  {Rigga's  Windermer&  Hotel)  is  1^ 
lailea  from  tlie  lake  by  road,  |  M.  by  footpath,  and 
5  j\I.  from  Ambleside.  Coach  each  morning  in  summer 
to  Patterdale.  A  short  distance  from  the  stat.  formerly 
stood  Elleray,  tbe  residence  of  Prof.  "Wilson  (Christo- 
pher North) ;  it  has  been  replaced  by  a  new  house.  Fine 
view  from  Orrest  Head,  783  ft.  high  (i  hr.'s  walk). 

Ambleside  {Salutatio7i;  Queens;  Wh.ite  Lion; 
Waterhead,  at  the  lake  pier)  is  nearly  1  M.  from  the 
head  of  Windermere  Lake,  in  a  lovely  situation  at  the 
foot  of  Wansfell  Pike.  Omnibuses  often  to  Grasmere 
and  to  head  of  lake ;    and   coaches  for  Keswick,  and 

"  The  Enghsh  Lake  District.  a°  interpreted  in  the  Poems  of 
Wordsworth,"  price  5s.  Baddeley's  Guide  is  capital.  Jenkin- 
soa's  "  Practical  Guide,"  price  7s.,  is  a  good  book.  Thei-e  ar« 
also  a  dozen  small  pamphlet  guides  for  6d.  or  Is.  each. 


46  AMBLESIDE.  —  CONISTON  LAKE. 

thrice  daily  for  Windermere.  Eare  from  Liverpool  to 
Ambleside,  28s.  6d.,  20s.  6d.,  13s.  6d.;  from  London 
to  Ambleside,  in  7  hrs.,  76s.  4d.,  58s.  lOd.,  39s.  6d. 

At  Ambleside  you  are  on  classic  ground.  The 
landlord  at  the  Salutation  Inn  (which  venerable  hos- 
telry is  now  in  its  twenty-fourth  decade,  although  the 
building  is  not)  says  that  Americans  always  ask  him 
how  far  it  is  to  Wordsworth's  grave,  where  Harriet 
Martineau  lived,  etc.,  but  that  English  tourists  never 
do.  Ambleside  is  picturesque,  although  the  inhabitants 
build  ugly  residences  out  of  the  slate  which  abounds  in 
the  neighborhood.  The  park -like  vale  of  Bothay,  with 
its  rich  woods  and  pretty  vistas  of  green  fields,  seems 
made  for  the  home  of  contemplation.  The  new  Ch.  of 
St.  Mary  designed  by  Sir  Gilbert  Scott,  is  in  a  charm- 
ing location.  We  give  a  number  of  short  excursions 
within  walking  distance,  out  of  which  the  tourist  must 
choose  those  which  strike  his  fancy.  To  the  Stoch 
Ghyll  Force  (waterfall,  70  ft.  high),  within  the  Salutation 
Hotel  grounds.  The  distances  mentioned  below  are 
computed  from  the  "  Salutation."  To  Rydal  Mount, 
Ch.,  and  Ealls,  2  M. ;  to  Skelgill  and  Wansfell  Pike, 
8  M.;  to  the  top  of  Kirkstone  Pass,  4  M.;  to  Grastnere, 
under  Louglirigg  Eell,  and  back  by  Nab  Scar,  9  M.;  to 
Clappersgate,  IM.;  Brathay  Ch.,  2  M. ;  Low  Wood 
Hotel,  2  M.;  Troutbeck  Ch.,  4  M.;  Langdale  Ch.,  5  M. 
Tickets  for  a  circular  tour  by  Coniston,  Euruess  Abbey, 
and  Windermere  Lake  (fares,  8s.  9d.,  Gs.  6d.),  and  for 
the  whole  tour,  can  be  obtained  at  Ambleside  or  at 
Bowness.     They  are  available  for  7  days. 

Coniston  Lake,  5|  M.  long  and  f  M.  broad,  is 
164  ft.  deep  in  some  places.  Its  surroundings  are 
fine,  and  the  view  down  upon  it  from  some  neighboring 
mt.  is  charming.  A  steam  yacht  plies  up  and  down 
the  lake  3  times  daily  (fares.  Is.  6d.  and  Is.),     Excur- 


ENGLAND.  47 

sions  up  Coniston  Old  Man  (2577  ft.),  AVetlierlara,  and 
Black  Combe  Mis.  are  for  the  leisurely  tourist. 

Goach  Services  from  Ambleside :  For  the  Langdale 
Drive,  6s. ;  to  Keswick,  several  times  daily,  6s.  6d, 
single,  and  9s.  6d.  return  tickets.  The  Langdale  Drive 
is  from  Ambleside  to  Rothay  Bridge,  iM.;  Skelwith 
Bridge,  3;  Colwith  Force,  41- ;  Smithy  Houses,  5|; 
Dungeon  Gill,  9^  ;  Chapel  Stile,  12|;  High  Close,  14  ; 
Grasmere  Ch.,  15 1 ;  Ambleside,  19|.  Much  of  the 
scenery  visited  on  this  drive  is  described  in  Words- 
worth's "  Excursion."  i 

1  Private  Carriane  Excursions  from  Ambleside,  recom- 
mended to  tourists  who  have  time  at  their  disposition.  —  To 
Patterdale  by  Kirkstone  Pass,  Brothers'  Water,  and  back 
(an  exceedingly  interesting  drive,  abounding  in  wild  and 
romantic  scenery),  24  M.;  or  back  by  Troutbeck,  25  M. 
To  Keswick  by  Rydal  Water,  Grasmere,  Dunmail  Raise, 
Thirlmere,  Castlerigg,  and  back,  34  M.;  or  back  by  St. 
John's  Vale,  37  M.  To  Coniston  by  Tarn  Hows,  back  by 
Hawkshead,  Blslham  Tarn,  Wray  Castle,  to  Ambleside,  18  M, 
To  Coniston  by  Tarn  Hows,  back  by  Hawkshead,  Esthwaite 
Water,  the  Ferry,  Wray  Castle  to  Ambleside,  23  M.;  or 
across  the  Ferry  and  back  to  Ambleside  by  Bowness,  25  M. 
Around  Windermere  Lake  by  Brathay,  Wray  Castle,  .the 
Ferry,  Graythwaitc,  to  Newby  Bridi^e,  and  back  by  the  E. 
side  of  Windcrraore,  Bowness  to  Ambleside,  30  M.  Around 
Langdale  by  Clappersgate,  Brathay,  Skehvith,  Blea  Tarn, 
Little  Langdale,  Wall  End,  back  by  Great  Langdale,  Red 
Bank,  Grasmere,  Rydal,  to  Ambleside,  21  M.;  or  direct  by 
Elterwater,  18  M.  By  Clappersgate  to  Skelwith,  Lough- 
rigg  Tarn,  High  Close,  Red  Bank,  Grasmere,  Rydal,.  to  Am- 
bleside, 12  M.  To  the  top  of  Kirkstone,  back  by  vale  of 
Troutbeck  and  Low  Wood,  11  M.;  or  back  by  Cook's  House, 
15  M.  To  Bowness,  back  by  Windermere,  Cook's  House, 
Vale  of  Troutbeck,  and  Low  Wood,  17  M.  To  Hawkshead, 
.back  by  Wray  Castle,  Blelham  Tarn,  12  M. 


4S  ULLSWATER  LAKE. 


From  Ambleside  to  UUswater  Lajs.^ 

Ullswater  Lake  is  usually  visited  either  from  Amblc' 
side  or  from  Keswick.  During  the  tourist  season  a 
coacli  leaves  Ambleside  for  Patterdale  at  10  a.m.  daily. 
The  route  through  Ambleside  to  the  Kirkstone  Pass 
passes  in  front  of  the  Salutation  Hotel,  and  branches 
to  the  r.,  passing  the  old  ch.  Here  and  there  it  is 
very  steep,  winding  along  the  side  of  the  Fell.  Below, 
on  the  r.,  is  the  Stock  Ghyll,  on  the  opposite  side  of 
which  is  Wansfell  Pike.  The  inn  at  the  top  of  the  Pass, 
called  the  Traoellers'  Rest,  is  said  to  be  the  highest  in- 
habited house  m  England.  It  stands  1,475  ft.  above 
the  sea-level.  Travellers,  independent  of  the  coach, 
would  better  drive  round  by  Troutbeck  Bridge  and  up 
ttie  bold  hills,  commanding  a  view  of  the  Fall  of  Trout- 
beck,  to  the  top  of  the  Pass.  Descending  from  the 
Travellers'  Rest,  you  pass  on  the  1.  the  Kirk  Stone, 
which  looks,  perhaps,  a  trifle  like  a  ch.  from  a  point 
half-way  down  the  nit.,  towards  Brothers'  Water,  a 
little  lake,  named  from  the  drowaiing  of  two  brothers  in 
its  depths.  While  at  the  top  of  the  Pass,  you  can  see 
the  flames  from  the  blast  furnaces  in  the  Barrow  dis- 
trict, and  catch  a  glim',)se  of  the  Irish  Sea.  The  Dove 
Crags,  beyond  the  Brothers'  Water  Hotel,  are  extremely 
picturesque. 

Patterdale  {Falter dale  Hotel;  White  Lion)  stands 
in  a  pretty  valley,  a  few  hundred  3'^ards  from  the  head 
©f  the  lake.  1  M.  farther  on  is  the  TJllsioater  Hotel, 
first-class.  The  scenery  all  about  this  point  is  rich  and 
varied.  The  view  from  the  windows  of  the  Ullswater 
Hotel  over  the  lake,  with  its  woody  shores  and  its 
islands,  is  very  beautiful.  (Fares  for  tour  on  Ullswater 
Lake,  by  steam  yacht,  3§.  and  2s. ^     The  boats  call  at 


ENGLAND.  "49 

Howtown,  and  next  land  passengers  close  to  Pooley 
Bridge,  whence  coaches  run  to  nicer,  the  trams  at  Pen- 
rith.    From  Penritli,  rail  to  Keswick. 

UUswater  Lake  is  9  M.  long,  f  M.  broad,  and 
2JIO  ft.  deep.  The  upper  reach  of  the  lake  is  the  most 
beautiful.  Many  people  prefer  this  to  Lake  Derweut- 
.water.  See  Li/ulph's  Tower  and  Ir>t  Force,  a  waterfall 
80  ft,  high.  This  cascade  is  the  scene  of  the  incident 
on  whicli  Wordsworth's  poein  of  the  Somnambulist  is 
founded.  The  journey  from  Ambleside  to  UUswater 
usually  takes  2|  hrs.  Wordsworth  intended  to  make 
his  home  at  a  cottage  under  Place  Pell,  near  Patter- 
dale  ;  but  the  owner  asked  more  than  the  prudent  man 
thought  it  was  worth,  and  he  remained  at  Grasmere, 
The  phices  in  the  UUswater  district  associated  with  the 
poet  are  best  approached  by  the  road  from  Grasmere 
to  Helvellyn,  leading  past  Girsdale  Tarn. 

From  Ambleside  to  Keswick  via  Rydal 
Mount  and  Grasmere. 

T]iose  persons  who  have  not  taken  the  Langdale 
Drive,  or  who  have  not  been  at  Grasmere  from  Amble- 
side, may  visit  the  old  homes  and  the  grave  of  Words* 
worth  on  their  way  to  Keswick.  The  coaches  stop  at 
the  places  of  interest.  The  road  out  of  Ambleside  leads 
past  tlie  Knoll,  and  the  ivy-covered  residence  in  which 
Harriet  Martineau  lived  for  a  long  time.  This  house 
is  on  the  1.  Thence  the  route  lies  up  the  Rothay  valley 
to  Rydal.  Note  Fox  How,  Dr.  Arnold's  old  residence 
to  the  1.,  beyond  the  Pothay.  A  steep  road  on  the  r. 
leads  out  of  Pydal  to  Rydal  Mount,  where  Wordsworth 
spent  37  years  of  his  life,  and  where  he  died  in  1850. 
As  many  of  the  memorials  of  the  poet  in  his  home 
as  possible  have  been  preserved  unaltered;    but  the 


5'0  GRASMERE. 

old  picturesque  frontage  with  its  12  win(lows^  aud 
the  ash-tree,  near  which  hung  the  "osier  cage"  of  the 
doves,  are  gone.  The  present  owner  of  the  house 
dechnes  to  show  it.  The  location  is  extremely  beauti- 
ful. Ri/dal  Falls  are  at  the  back  of  Rydal  Hall. 
Guide  at  cottage  below  the  ch.  Returning  to  the 
main  road,  tiie  traveller  passes  through  tlie  gorge 
between  Nab  Scar  on  tlie  r.  aud  Loughrigg  Fell  on 
the  1.  ;  sees  on  the  r.  Nah  Collage,  in  which  Hartley 
Coleridge  lived  for  a  long  time,  and  where  he  died; 
and  readies  Ri/dul  Water,  one  of  the  most  diminutive 
of  the  lakes.  From  this  point  it  is  but  a  short  distance 
to  the  delightfully  situated  Grasmere  Lake.  It  is  1  M. ' 
long  and  \  M.  broad.  An  island  of  4  acres'  area  lies  in 
its  centre.  On  the  border  of  this  lake  is  the  Frmce  of 
Wales  Eolel,  a  good  house.  Grasmere  {Rothay  Hotel ; 
Swan;  Red  Lion)  lies  mainly  at  the  ]M.  end  of  the  lake, 
although  many  of  the  newer  residences  border  on  the 
highway.  Knight  says:  "  The  cottage  at  the  town  end 
of  Grasmere,  to  which  Wordsworth  came  with  his 
sister  in  the  last  days  of  the  last  century,  is,  even  more 
than  Rydal  Mount,  identified  with  his  poetic  prime. 
It  had  once  been  a  public  house,  bearing  the  sign  of 
the  Dove  and  Olive  Bough,  from  which  circumstance 
it  was  for  a  long  time,  and  is  still,  occasionally  named 
*Dove  Cottage.'  It  is  a  small,  two-storied  house." 
(See  De  Quincey's  description,  in  "Recollections  of  the 
Lakes,"   pp.  131,  137.)^      Grasmere   Ch.   is   the   one 

*  The  localities  most  deeply  identified  with  Wordsworth 
are :  Grasmere,  where  he  lived  so  long,  and  i^s  buried ; 
Lower  Easedale,  where  he  spent  so  many  days  witl?  his  .sister, 
by  the  side  of  the  brook,  and  on  the  terraces  at  Lancrigg, 
where  The  Prelude  was  written;  Rydal  Mount,  «v]?^re.  he 
Jived  the  latter  half  of  his  hfe,  and  found  one  ^    tu^  most 


ENGLAND.  51 

which  Wordsworth    drew  in   '^The  Excursion,"  and 
in  its  cemetery  lie  lies  buried.     Tlie  interior  is  as  the 
poet  described    it:  there  are  the  "  nalced  rafters  in- 
tricately crossed,"  the  oaken  benches,  the   "heraldic 
shield"  in  the  "  altar  window,"  etc.     After  a  visit  to 
the  ch.  you  can  find  some  very  lovely  rambles  in  the 
vicinity.     The  road  to  Keswick  chrabs  Dunmail  Raise 
Pass,  with  Steel  Fell  on  the  1.  and  Seat  Sandal  on  the 
r.,  and  crosses  the  boundary  between  Cumberland  and 
Westmoreknd.     Descending  on  the  other  side,  Thirl- 
mere  Lake  appears,  with  Mt.  Helvellyn  on  the  r.  and 
part   of  Skiddaw  in  the  distance.     "The  coach  stops 
Bt  the  inn  at  Wythburn.     The  ch.  at  Wythburn  is 
Dne  of  the  smallest  in  England.     From   hence   the 
ascent  of  Mt.  Helvellya  Is  easiest.     Height,  3118 
ft.  ;  distance  to  top  from  Wythburn,  2  1-2  M.  ;  time 
required,  1  1-2  hrs.     Thirlmere  Lake,  which  sup- 
plies Manchester  with  water,  is  2  1-2  M.  long,  and 
very  narrow.      From    the   W.    shore    many  lovely 
views    may    be    obtained.     From    an    elevation    in 
the  road  just  beyond  this  point,  Blencathara  may  be 
seen.     The  rich  Vale  of  St.  John  also  opens  its  charm- 
ing vistas  on  the  r.;  and  not  far  from  the  King's  Head 
Inn,  at  Thirlspot,  a  glimpse  of  Castle  Bock,  the  fairy 
castle  of  Sir  Walter  Scott's  "  Bridal  of  Triermain,"  if 

perfect  retreats  in  En.glaiid  ;  and  the  old  (upper)  path  be- 
tween Rydal  and  Grasmere,  under  Nab  Scar,  his  favorite 
walk  during  his  later  years,  where  he  composed  hundreds  of 
verses.  There  is  scarcely  a  rock  or  mountain -summit,  a 
stream  or  tarn,  or  even  a  well,  a  grove,  or  a  forest-side,  in 
all  that  neighborhood,  which  is  not  imperishably  associated 
with  that  poet,  who  at  once  interpreted  them  as  they  had 
never  been  intei-preted  before,  and  added 

"The  gleam, 
Tlie  light  that  never  was  on  sea  or  land. 
The  consecration,  and  the  poet's  dream."  . 


52         KESWICK.-DERWENTWATER  LAKE. 

obtained.  An  uninteresting  stretch  of  country  comes 
next ;  after  which  the  traveller  is  gratified  with  one  oi 
the  most  exquisite  panoramas  in  the  Lake  Region,  the 
Derwent  Valley,  with  pretty  Keswick,  and  portions 
of  Bassenthwaite  and  Derwentwater  Lakes. 

Keswick  (Hotels:  Keswick,  attherly.  stat. ;  Royal 
Oah;  (Queens;  6^eor^e;  l/aj^e)  is  surrounded  by  a  noble 
company  of  mts.,  with  Skiddaw,  the  chief,  3058  ft., 
towering  above  them.  It  is  a  handsome  little  town, 
and  one  or  two  days  may  be  spent  in  the  neighbor-  fM 
hood.  1  M.  from  Keswick,  at  the  foot  of  Lake  W 
Derwentwater,  in  Portinscale,  is  the  Deriventwater 
Hotel  (good).  3  M.  from  Keswick  is  the  Lodore 
Hotel,  and  behind  it  the  Lodore  Fall,  which  Southey 
celebrated  in  verse.  The  Barrow  and  Lodore  Water-  § 
falls,  the  Bowder  Stone,  Corrowdale  Valley,  Honister 
Pass,  Buttermere  and  Crummock  Lakes,  Scale  Force, 
and  the  Newlands  Valley  may  be  seen  on  the  excursion 
called  the  Buttermere  Drive.  Excursionists  are  con- 
veyed in  open  wagonettes  (fares  5s.,  and  Is.  for  driver) 
through  this  pleasant  series  of  sylvan  and  lake  scenery. 
Borroivdale  is  considered  one  of  the  finest  valleys  in 
Great  Britain.  The  Wastwater  Excursion  from  Kes- 
wick is  interesting,  but  fatiguing. 

Derwentwater  Lake  lies  238  ft.  above  the  sea- 
level;  is  80  ft.  deep  in  the  centre,  3  M.  long  and  1^  M. 
wide.  From  the  Friar's  Crag,  on  this  Lake,  there  is  a 
magnificent  outlook.  There- are  several  islands,  one  of 
which,  St.  Herbert,  was  occupied  by  a  hermit  monk  in 
the  7th  century.  On  Rampshohne  Island,  the  Earls  of 
Derwentwater  once  had  a  mansion;  and  from  it  Lady 
Derwentwater  escaped,  taking  with  her  the  family 
Jewels,  to  procure  the  release  of  the  Earl,  who  was 
imprisoned  in  the  Tower  of  London  for  taking  part 
in  the  rebellion  of  1715.     (Charge  for  boat  with  boat- 


ENGLAND.  53 

man  on  the  lake,  2s.  for  the  first  hour,  Is.  6d.  for  every 
succeeding  hour.)  For  those  pressed  for  tune,  a  drive 
Touud  Derwent water  Lake  wiil  give  a  view  of  the  prin- 
cipal points  of  scenery.  Bassenthwaite  Lake  begins 
nbout  8  M.  N.  of  tlie  foot  of  Derwentwater.  It  is  4 
M.  long  and  about  f  M.  wide.  Tlie  river  Derwent, 
which  carries  the  waters  from  the  Derwent  and  Kes- 
wick  Lakes,  enters  it  at  its  head,  and  leaves  it  at  its 
foot,  flowing  past  Cockermouth  and  into  the  sea. 
Bassenthwaite  has  three  promontories  on  its  E.  side, 
which  is  overshadowed  by  Skiddaw.  It  is  not  often 
visited  by  tourists,  because  it  lies  on  the  N.  outslcirt  of 
the  Lake  District:  but  it  is  well  worth  seeing. 

Greta  Hail,  where  the  poet  tSouthey  spent  the 
best  part  of  his  life,  is  a  short  distance  from  Kes« 
wick.  Walk  dov^n  the  main  street  to  the  bridga 
crossing  the  river  Greta,  whence  a  good  view  may  be 
had  of  the  Hall.  It  stands  on  the  r.,  surrounded  by 
trees.  From  this  point  to  Crosthwaite  Ch.  is  a  pleasant 
walk,  and  in  the  ch.-yard  is  Southey's  grave.  The 
edifice  contains  a  monument  to  the  laureate,  consisting 
of  a  fidl-length  figure.  The  poetical  inscription  was 
written  by  Wordsworth.  In  the  chancel  is  a  monu- 
ment to  Sir  John  Radcliffe,  Knight,  an  ancestor  of  the 
Earls  of  Derwentwater.  From  the  tower,  good  view. 
A  footpath  througii  the  meadow  called  Houray  was 
one  of  Southey's  favorite  walks.  From  this  point  fine 
view  of  the  magnificent  group  of  mts. :  on  the  N.,  tlte 
huge  mass  of  Skiddaw;  on  the  E.,  Wallow  Crag;  and 
to  the  S.,  the  Borrowdale  nUs.  The  lead-pencil  manu. 
factories  near  Keswick  merit  a  visit;  so  does  an  in- 
genious model  of  the  Lake  District  in  a  museum  in  the 
town.  From  Castle  Head,  \  M.  outside  Keswick,  mosi 
of  Bassenthwaite  Lake,  a  portion  of  Derwentwater,  the 
whole  of  the  inter vemng  valley,  and  Mt.  Skiddaw  may  bf 


64  KESWICK.  —  PENKITH. 

eeen.  St.  John  and  Crostliwaite  Clis.  may  also  be  seen 
5rom  this  point.  Unless  the  weatiier  is  fine,  it  is  use- 
less to  hope  for  any  satisfactory  view  of  the  mts.  Even 
in  midsummer  the  front  of  Skiddaw  is  overhung  with 
mists  for  a  large  part  of  the  time.  About  1|  M.  from 
Keswick,  in  a  field  adjoining  the  old  Penrith  road,  are 
the  Druids'  Stones,  formed  of  88  stones,  the  largest  of 
which  is  upwards  of  7  ft.  high.  Near  by  are  the  tow- 
ering heights  of  Helvellyn,  Blencathara,  and  Skiddaw, 
and,  in  the  distance,  to  the  W.,  an  impressive  range. 

Ascent  of  Skiddaw  from  Keswick.  — ■  The  distance 
io  the  top  is  about  5^  M. ;  time,  there  and  back,  4-6 
hrs. ;  charge  for  pony,  6s. ;  guide,  6s.  A  guide  is  usually 
necessary  from  Skiddaw  to  the  summit  of  Blencathara  j 
4istance,  about  6  M. ;  ground  in  places  very  wet. 

The  tourist  can  now  go  on  to  Scotland  (which  course 
we  recommend),  via  Penrith  and  Carlisle ;  or  can  re- 
turn to  Liverpool  (fares  from  Keswick,  89s.  2d.,  27s. 
2d.,  18s.),  and  thence  go  to  London  by  the  North 

VYestern  Rly.,  arriving  at  Euston  stat.  (fares,  by  all  the 
lines,  29s.,  21s.  9d.,  16s.  9d.;  distance,  201f  M.);  the 
Midland,  arriving  at  St.  Pancras  ;  the  Great  Northern, 
arrivin.g^  at  King's  Cross ;  or  the  Great  Western,  arriv- 
ing at  Faddington  stat.  Free  parlor  ears  are  run  on 
express  trains,  both  on  the  L.  &  N.  W.  Ry.  and  the 
Midland  Ky. 

From  Keswick  to  Carlisle  and  Scotland^ 

From    Keswick  to  Penrith,   18  M.  (fares,  4s.  4d.,. 
Is,  lOd.).     Penrith  {Crown  Hotel;  George)  is  charm- 
ingly situated.     Excursions  may  be  made  to  Brougham 
-Castle  and  Hall,  Arthur's  Round  Table,  Lowther  Castle 
and  the  famous  Eden  Hall,  which  contains  the  curious, 


ENGLAND.  53 

old  drinkiug-glass  called  tlie  ''Luck  of  Eden  Hall.** 
See  ruins  of  Fenrith  Caaile,  a  favorite  residence  of 
Ricliard  III.  In  the  cemetery  of  tlie  parish  ch.  is  the 
Giant's  Graoe,  an  ancient  mysterious  mou)id 

Carlisle  {County  Station  Hotel ;  Central;  Crown 
and  Mitre),  18  M.  from  Penrith  and  8  M.  from  the 
Scottish  border,  is  the  capital  of  Cumberland.  It  dates 
back  to  the  Roman  days,  and  was  close  to  Hadrian's 
wall.  In  the  early  wars  between  England  and  Scotland 
it  was  of  great  importance.  The  Gadle  was  built  by 
William  Rufus.  Within  it  Mary  Queen  of  Scots  was 
imprisoned  in  1568.  The  Cathedral  does  not  stand  in 
the  front  rank  ;  but  its  E.  window  is  commonly  said  to 
be  the  largest  and  finest  in  the  Kingdom.  The  ch.  was 
originally  part  of  a  Norman  priory,  built  of  red  free- 
stone. It  contains  a  monument  to  Dr.  Paley,  Arch- 
deacon of  Carlisle.  Note  the  old  glass  of  the  time  of 
Richard  II.,  in  the  E.  window,  and  the  exauisite  details 
of  the  flamboyant  Gothic  work.  The  walls  and  windows 
of  the  choir  are  Norman;  the  upper  part  of  the 
choir,  with  the  E.  end  and  the  roof,  Late  Decorated. 
See  the  old  abbey  gate-house  ;  and  the  refectory,  now 
used  as  the  chapter- house ;  also  quaint  houses  in  the 
market-place  ;  and  1  he  Moot  Hall. 

Beyond  Carlisle  the  rly.  enters  the  Debatable  Ground, 
where  for  centuries  the  borderers  waged  war  on  each 
other.  A  little  farther  on  is  Ecclefechan  (Scotland), 
where  Thomas  Carlyle  was  born  and  is  buried.  The 
rly.  crosses  the  Esk,  descending  from  Liddesdale  :  — 

**  March,  inarch,  Eskdale  and  Liddesdale, 
AJi  the  blue  bonnets  are  over  the  border." 


56  THE  LAND  OF  BUENa 


SCOTLAND. 

SHORTLY  after  crossing  the  Sark  River,  which  is.  Mia 
boundary  between  England  and  Scotland,  the  route 
passes  Gretna  Junction,  near  which  is  Gretna  Green, 
formerly  the  resort  of  iTinaway  couples  anxious  to  be 
married.  These  marriages,  rendered  possible  by  the  dif- 
ference between  the  English  and  Scotch  law,  were  first 
celebrated,  in  1760,  by  a  tobacconist  named  Paisley. 
In  1856  they  were  suppressed  by  act  of  Parliament. 
Annan  Junction  was  the  scene  of  the  spirited  escape 
of  King  Edward  Balliol,  in  1332,  from  the  cavalry  of 
Archibald  Douglass.  It  was  the  birthplace  of  Edward 
Irving,  in  1792. 

The  Land  of  Burns 

can  be  visited  from  Glasgow ;  but  it  will  be  more  satls» 
factory  to  go  from  Carlisle  to  Dumfries,  pass  the  night, 
and  then  pi'oceed  to  Ayr.  The  excursion  may  be  made 
ill  a  day. 

Dumfries  (>S'/a/2''o?i;  Commercial;  King'' s  Arms)  is 
32|  M.  from  Carlisle  (fares,  5s.  6d.,  4s.  Id.,  2s.  9d.). 
Here  Burns  Uved  for  several  years,  and  here  he  died, 
at  the  house  now  known  as  Burns's.  He  also  lived  for 
18  months  after  he  became  an  exciseman,  at  the  foot 
of  Bank-St.  His  Mausoleum  is  in  St.  Michaels  Ch.- 
yard  ;  in  the  vault  beneath,  lie  Burns  and  Lis  wife 
and  son.  The  Oreyfriars  Oh.  deserves  a  visit. 
Most  reader?  of  Scott  will  remember  the  stoiy  of  Grey- 
friars  Monasteiy  and  of  "Kirkpatrick's  bloody  work." 
Dumfries  is  the  capital  of  Nithsdale,  and  its  people  call 
it  ' '  The  Queen  of  the  South. "    From  a  border  hamlet 


SCOTLAND.  37 

of  the  8th  century,  with  a  Franciscan  convent  and  a 
castle,  it  has  grown  into  a  prosperous  port  and  factory 
town.  Excursions  from  Dumfries:  —  To  Linclu- 
den  Abbey,  1^  M.,  beautiful  ruins  of  a  12Lh-ceutury 
Benedictine  nuunery,  and  a  favorite  resort  of  Burns. 
Ainid  this  sylvan  beauty  he  composed  his  "  Vision 
of  Libertie."  —  To  New  or  Sweetheart  Abbey,  a 
lovely  Gothic  ruin,  7  M.  S.  The  Lady  Devorgilla, 
who  built  the  abbey  (for  Cistercians),  in  1284,  em- 
balmed the  heart  (whence  the  name)  of  her  husband, 
John  Balliol,  and  had  it  built  in  over  the  high  altar. 
Devorgilla  also  erected  in  Dumfries  the  monastery  for 
Franciscan  friars,  before  whose  altar  Robert  the  Bruce 
slew  the  Red  Comyn;  and  the  old  bridge  across  the 
Nith.— To  Terregles  (3  M.)  and  Trongray  (5  M.),  in 
whose  ch.-yard  is  a  handsome  monument  erected  by 
Scott  to  the  memory  of  Helen  Walker  ( Jeannie  Deans). 
Irongray  is  the  scene  of  "The  Recreations  of  a  Country 
Parson." — To  Ellisland  farm,  where  Burns  wrote 
"  Tarn  O'Shanter"  and  the  beautiful  ode  "  To  Mary 
in  Heaven."  13  M.  from  Dumfries  is  the  extraordin- 
ary architectural  pile  of  *Drumlanrig  Castle,  built 
by  William,  first  Duke  of  Queensberry,  who  wasted 
princely  sums  on  it.  Torthorwald  Castle  is  a  massive 
ruin,  4  M.  from  Dundee.  Caerlaverock  Castle  (9 
M.)  is  a  grand  old  fortress  on  tlie  Solway  Firth,  de- 
scribed in  "  Guy  Mannering."  Lochmaben,  Ruthwell, 
and  venerable  Kirkcudbright  (near  Dundrennan  Abbey 
and  St.  Mary's  Isle)  may  also  be  visited.  Tourists 
who  wish  to  view  the  extreme  S,  coast  of  Scotland 
should  go  to  Stranraer  from  Dumfries  (G9  IM.);  and 
from  Stranraer  by  rail  to  Ayr  and  Glasgo .(  Tliose  who 
would  make  only  a  short  stop  at  Dumfries  should  buy 
a  ticket  from  Carlisle  to  Mauchline  (81|  M. ;  fares, 
13s.  8d.,  10s.  3d.,  6s.  9id.)    At  Mauchline  {Loudoun 


58  AYR.  -  ALLOWAY. 

Arms  Hotel)  everything  speaks  of  Burns;  his  farm  of 
Mossgiel  is  1^  M.  N. ;  there  he  was  married  to  Jean 
Armour;  there  his  plough  turne'd  up  the  mouse's  nest. 
In  Mauchline  is  "  Poosie  Nansie's"  cottage,  cele- 
brated for  the  meeting  of  the  ' '  Jolly  Beggars. "  If  you 
have  time,  walk  through  woods  and  fields  from  Mauch- 
line to  Montgomerie,  There  stands  the  pretty  man- 
sion where  once  "Highland  Mary"  lived  as  an  humble 
dairymaid.  From  Mauchline  a  branch  line,  11  M. 
long,  leads  to  Ayr  {Station;  King's  Arms;  Dalblair)^ 
to  which  many  pilgrims  go  to  pay  homage  to  Burns. 
It  is  on  the  sea-coast,  at  the  mouth  of  the  river  Ayr. 
Seethe  "Twa  Brigs"  of  Burns's  poem.  The  Auld 
Brig  (now  only  a  footpath)  dates  from  the  reign  of 
Alexander  III.,  in  the  13th  century;  the  new  bridge, 
from  1877.  A  Gothic  tower,  133  ft.  high,  containing 
a  statue  of  Wallace,  stands  on  the  site  of  a  tower  in 
which  the  hero  is  said  to  have  been  confined.  Crom- 
well built  the  fort  of  Ayr  in  1652.  But  a  few  frag- 
ments remain.  Take  a  carriage  to  Burns's  Cottage, 
the  Monument,  and  AUoway  Kirk  (l^hrs. ;  fare,  about 
4s.  for  a  party).  Walk  down  through  the  long  and 
exquisitely  shaded  avenue  to  the  cottage.  In  this  rude 
home  the  poet  was  born,  Jan.  25,  1759.  One  room 
has  been  transformed  into  a  kind  of  museum,  and 
there  some  of  the  poet's  original  MSS.  may  be  seen. 
Not  far  beyond  is  Alioway  Kirk,roofless  and  desolate. 
The  walls  are  in  a  fair  state  of  preservation,  and  the 
bell  remains;  but  the  woodwork  has  been  all  used 
up  for  memorials.  New  Alioway  Ch.  is  on  the  other 
side  of  the  road.  There  is  little  to  see  in  the  ' '  auld 
haunted  kirk,"  so  go  on  to  the  bridge  over  the  "Bonny 
Doon,"  built  since  Burns's  time;  up  stream  you  will 
see  the  "Auld  Brig"  immortalized  in  "Tam  o'  Shan- 
ter."     An  excursion  along  the  Beautiful  Doon  in  the 


SCOTLAND.  69 

summer-time  is  most  delightful.     The  Burns  Monu. 

ment  stands  near  the  new  bridge.  See,  on  tiie  ground- 
floor,  memorials  of  the  poet,  and  the  Bible  whicli  he 
gave  to  "  Highland  Mary."  Good  view  from  upper 
part  of  monument.  Note  the  statues  of  Tarn  O'Slian- 
ter  and  Souter  Johnnie,  in  a  grotto  on  S.  N.  E.  of 
Ayr  lies  a  country  in  which  Burns  laid  the  scene  of 
many  poems.  It  is  accessible  only  by  rural  teams 
or  on  foot.  3fL  Oliphant,  where  Burns  lived  when 
a  child,  and  Tarbolton,  where  he  passed  his  early 
manhood,  and  where  he  wrote  "  John  Barleycorn," 
*'  Now,  whistling  wdnds,"  etc.,  are  but  a  few  miles 
from  Alio  way. 

A  rly.  ruiis  S.  from  Ayr  to  Maybole  (9  M.),  the 
old  capital  of  Carrick,  and  the  scene  of  Scott's  "Ayr- 
shire  Tragedy,"  near  which  are  the  rich  ruins  of  CrosH' 
raguel  Abbey  (founded  about  1240)  and  Bunure  Castle  ; 
also  the  splendid  Cidzean  Castle,  where  the  Earls  of 
Cassilis  have  held  court  for  centuries,  on  cliffs  over 
the  sea.  7  M,  S.  of  Maybole  are  the  ruins  of  Tum- 
berrif  Castle,  made  famous  by  Bobert  Bruce  and  Wal- 
ter Scott.  22  M.  by  rail  from  Ayr  is  Giroan,  10  M. 
off  shore  from  which  Ailsa  Craig  rises  from  the  sea, 
1,100  ft.  high,  and  2  M.  around.  The  rly.  runs  farther 
S.  to  Portpatrick  ;  Stranraer ;  Glenluce,  near  the  ruins 
of  Luce  Abbey  (founded  1190)  and  Soulseat  Abbey; 
picturesque  little  Wigtown,  near  Baldoon  Castle,  the 
scene  of  ocott's  "  Bride  of  Laramermoor  ;  "  and  otlier 
laoalities  famous  in  the  chronicles  of  the  borders  and 
the  sea,  —  the  Bruce,  the  Wallace,  and  the  Cove- 
nanters. 

Ayr  can  be  visited  from  Glasgow  (40  M.)  in  an  after, 
noon.  (Fares,  5s.,  4s.,  3s.)  Leaving  Ayr'  for  Glas- 
gow, in  6^  M.  the  train  reaches  Troon,  the  chief  sea- 
port and  summer-resort  of  Ayrshire,   3  M.  from  the 


60  Paisley.  —  Glasgow. 

great  rums  of  Dmidonald  Castle,  the  home  of  tiie 
founder  of  the  Stuart  dynasty;  a  branch  Hue  runs 
(9  M.)  to  Kilmarnock,  where  Eurns's  poems  were  first 
pubUslied.  Beyond  Troon,  the  Glasgow  train  passes 
Irvine,  where  the  poet  Montgomery  w-as  born,  where 
Burns  lived  for  a  time,  and  where  Robert  Bruce  sur-= 
rendered  to  the  English  army  under  Percy.  3|  M. 
farther  on  is  Kilwinning,  wJLh  the  ruins  of  an  ancient 
priory,  famous  in  Masonic  annals;  and  also  the  impos- 
ing Eglinton  Castle,  the  seat  of  the  Mon^o-oTripries. 

Paisley  {Neiv  Globe;  County)  contains  a  magnifi- 
cent Town  Hall ;  a  jail,  which  looks  like  a  palace;  a 
museum  of  local  antiquities  and  relics  ;  and  the  Abbey 
Church,  founded  in  1169.  In  the  Reformation,  Paisley 
was  noted  for  its  intense  devotion  to  the  Catholic  re^ 
ligiou.  The  chapel  of  the  abbey  contains  a  "sound- 
ing  aisle,"  so  called  from  its  remarkable  echo.  The 
nave,  which  remains  entire,  is  used  as  a  parish  ch. 
Paisley  (once  a  Roman  fortress)  was  of  no  importance 
until  the  last  century ;  but  noM^  its  trade  includes  weav- 
ing, shawls,  and  thread-making  (the  establishments  of 
Coats,  and  Clark  &  Co.  are  the  largest  of  their  kind  in 
the  world).  "  Christopher  North "  was  born  here. 
Not  far  from  Paisley  is  the  farm  of  Moorhouse,  where 
Robert  Pollok,  author  of  "The  Course  of  Tnue,"  was 
born,  in  1798.  See  Crookdon  Canfle,  where  Queen 
Mary  was  betrothed  to  Daruley,  haif-w^ay  between 
Paisley  and 

Glasgow^. 

(Hotels:  St  Enocl^'s;  Windsor,-  Grand:  N.  Britisli; 
Victoria;  Central).    The  Amori'-^an  tourist  will  find  a 
vast  (leal. to  occupy  his  attention  in  this,  the  second 
city  in  population  and  commercial  importance  in  Great 
Britain.     A  small  Roman  colony  once  occupied  this 


BCOTLA^r).  ^^ 

«itt.  About  the  year  560  St.  Mungo  founded  a 
religious  house  here,  and  the  village  was  nurtured 
by  the  Church  for  a  thousand  years.  At  the  Rt. 
formation  GUiscow  had  but  4,000  inhabitants,  and 
in  1708  it  had  12,776.  But  towards  the  end  of  the 
18th  century  it  began  to  increase  enormously  •, 
and  in  1901  the  population  was  760.000.  The  im- 
portal  ion  of  tobacco  from  Virginia  and  Mary* 
land  was  long  one  of  the  chief  branches  of  industry. 
To-day,  this  town,  60  M.  from  the  sea,  rivals  Liv- 
erpool in  shipping,  Manchester  in  cotton-spinning, 
Newcastle  in  coal,  the  Thames  and  the  Tyne  in  iron 
ship-building,  and  Wolverhajnpton  in  iron  furnaces. 
The  perseverance  of  the  Scotch  in  converting  the  Clyde 
into  a  vast  harbor,  cannot  be  too  much  admired.  Glas- 
gow was  the  first  city  in  Europe  to  possess  a  regular 
line  of  steamboats.  In  1812-18  steam-packets  crossed 
the  Irish  Straits  between  Greenock  and  Belfast.  It 
was  in  Glasgow  that  James  Watt  perfected  his  famous 
invention.  In  1718  the  first  ship,  a  little  craft  of  60 
tons,  left  Glasgow  for  the  New  World.  The  statistics 
show  that  13,071  ships  (6,662,501  tons)  entered  or 
left  the  port  in  1880.  The  commercial  fleet  of  Glasgow 
,  was  1,0S8  ships  and  532  steamers.  The  movement  of 
I  Greenock  was  7,890  ships  (1,943,200  tons).     . 

Walk  down  to  the  splendid  Glasgow  Bridge,  from 
which  there  is  a  fine  view  of  the  *  Broomielaw,  or 
j  Harbor,  on  which  more  than  £2,000,000  has  been 
I  spent.  The  Broomielaw  is  400  ft.  vv^ide,  and  extends 
down  the  stream  for  1^  M.,  walled  on  either  side  by  su- 
perb ranges  of  docks,  along  Mdiich  ships  are  laid  three 
jor  four  deep,  ^rom  the  Bridge  upstream  a  good  view 
of  the  Custom  House  on  tlie  N.  bank  is  commanded. 
iTlie  works  on   the  Clyde   have   cost  £8,500,000,  <)X 


62  GLASGOW. 

$42,500,000.  In  1760  James  Watt  reported  a  maxi. 
mum  depth  of  water  at  the  Broomielaw  of  3  ft.  3  in. 
Now,  as  the  result  of  the  constant  di-edging,  vessels 
drawing  23  ft.  of  water  enter  freely.  Glasgow  is  in 
the  famous  Lanarkshire  black  district,  M'hich  has 
great  coal-field,  rich  also  in  seams  of  ironstone.  There 
are  so  many  blast  furnaces  here  that  the  sky  to  the  S 
and  S.  E.  is  lighted  up  nightly  with  their  glow  as  if  by 
a  great  conflagration. 

The  E. "section  of  the  city  includes  the  main  business 
part,  and  the  objects  of  antiquarian  interest.  The  W, 
is  the  section  for  residences  of  the  fashionable  people  \ 
and  on  the  S.  are  the  great  public  works.  Buchanan 
St.  is  handsomely  built,  and  contains  the  finest  shops 
and  offices.  Argyle-St.,  3  M.  long  (including  Trongat^ 
and  Gallowgate),  is  the  main  thoroughfare.  George-St 
is  an  avenue  extending  the  whole  length  of  tlie  citj 
and  passing  through  George  Square.  This  is  a  cen 
tral  point,  and  lies  close  to  the  two  ])nncipal  rly.  stats 
In  the  centre  stands  the  Scott  Monument,  a  fluted  coll 
umn  surmounted  by  a  gigantic  statue.  On  the  E.  and 
W.  are  equestrian  bronze  statues  of  Queen  Yictoricj 
and  the  Prince  Consort.  There  are  also  figures  oj 
James  Watt,  by  Chantrey ;  the  exquisite  statue  of  Si 
John  -Moore  (a  native  of  Glasgow),  by  Elaxman  ;  on* 
of  Di  -  Livingstone,  the  traveller  ;  and  others  to  Camp 
bell  the  poet,  Sir  Robert  Peel,  Robert  Burns,  Lor( 
Clyde,  and  Dr.  Graham.  On  the  S.  is  the  Genera 
Tout-Office,  plain  but  spacious;  and  on  the  E.  is  the  nev 
municipal  buildings.  The  Bank  of  Scotland  and  th 
Merchants'  House  occupy  the  W.  side.  The  Roya 
Exchange  is  in  the  Corinthian  style,  with  rich  colon 
nades.  Strangers  are  admitted  to  the  news-room,  18'| 
ft.  long  by  60  ft.  broad,  with  a  noble  arched  rool 
See  Uutcheaonh  Hospital.  Corinthian  buildings  with  , 


SCOTLAND.  63 

high  tower,  founded  in  1641  by  two  brothers  ;  and 
also  in  Ingram  Street  the  old  Glasgow  Assembly  Booms; 
also  St.  David's  Ch.  and  tlie  Mitchell  Library.  In 
Arr/i/le-St.,  at  the  so-called  Cross  of  Glasgow,  whence 
High-St.,  Gallowgate,  London-St.,  and  Salt  market  di- 
verge, stands  an  equestrian  statue  of  William  III.  At 
the  corner  of  the  High-St.  and  Trongate  formerly 
stood  the  old  Court  House,  in  front  of  which  crirahials 
were  executed,  and  the  ancient  jail,  of  which  Walter 
Scott  speaks.  See  the  Cross  Steeple,  a  relic  of  the  old 
municipal  splendor.  The  ancient  Saltmarket,  Princes- 
St.,  and  Kings-St.,  and  the  adjacent  closes  and  wynds, 
on  Saturday  evenings  afford  scenes  of  violence  and 
brutality  among  the  lower  classes.  Walk  up  High-St. 
OR  the  E.  side  from  the  Trongate  to  the  Cathedral. 
See  old  Glasgow  College  (built  1632-52,  in  quaint  and 
gloomy  monastic  forms),  now  a  rly.  stat.  Opposite,  at 
the  corner  of  High  and  College  Sts.,  is  the  house  in 
which  Thomas  Campbell  lived  as  a  student.  Farther 
on  is  the  place  called  the  Bell  of  the  Brae,  where,  in 
1300,  Wallace  and  his  Scots  defeated  thrice  their  num- 
ber of  Englishmen,  and  Wallace  clove  Lord  Percy's 
head  in  twain  ;  and  a  little  beyond  this  is  the  homely 
Barony  Ch.,  once  in  charge  of  Dr.  Norman  MacLeod. 
The  Cathedral  is  famous  as  one  of  the  two  Catholic 
chs.  spared  in  Scotland  by  the  fury  of  the  Reformation. 
The  Presbyterian  ministers  prevailed  on  the  magis- 
trates in  1579  to  have  it  torn  down  ;  but  tlie  corpora- 
tions  of  the  city  rose  in  arms,  and  prevented  it.  Two 
stone  "idols"  were  taken  out  of  their  nooks  and  broken 
to  pieces,  as  Scott  has  told  us,  "  and  the  auld  Kirk 
stood  as  crouse  as  a  cat  when  the  flaes  are  kaimed  oH 
her,  and  a'body  was  alike  pleased."  (Admittance  daily, 
except  Sun.,  10-6  ;  Tues.  and  Tlmrs.,  2d.)  Th.s  noble 
structure  is  dedicated  to  St.  Kentigern,  or  St.  Mango, 


M  GLASGOW  CATHEDRAL. 

the  founder  of  the  sec  ut'  Glasgow,  who  was  buried  on 
the  E.  end  of  the  cathedral-site.  The  edifice  is  pic- 
turesquely located ;  and  above  it,  on  terraces  almost 
oriental  in  their  construction,  arises  the  Necropolis, 
the  finest  cemetery  in  the  city,  with  rich  shrubber- 
ies and  crowds  of  monuments ;  approached  from  the 
cathedral  by  the  Bridge  of  Sighs.  The  arrangement 
of  the  monuments  is  very  remarkable,  and  forms  a 
noble  background  to  the  ancient  cathedral.  The  most 
noted  monuments  are  those  of  John  Knox  the  He- 
former,  Dr.  William  Black,  Rev.  Dr.  Dick,  and  Major 
Monteith.  Climbing  to  the  summit  one  overlooks  the 
Vast  city,  with  its  enormous  ranges  of  buildings,  and  its 
forests  of  chimneys,  and  of  masts  along  the  Clyde,  and 
the  blue  hills  of  Lanark,  Renfrew,  and  Argyll.  The 
original  cathedral  was  founded  in  the  reign  of  David  I., 
In  1136.  Murdo,  the  famous  architect,  built  it;  and 
the  inscription  on  his  tomb  alludes  with  pride  to  the 
fact.  The  cathedral  is  319  ft.  long  and  63  ft.  wide. 
The  W.  door  is  rich  and  beautiful.  Its  general  design 
is  French,  but  the  mouldings  and  details  are  English, 
The  interior  contains  147  pillars,  and  many  of  the  159 
windows  are  of  very  beautiful  workmanship.  The  en- 
,trance  is  by  a  door  in  the  S.  aisle.  Before  the  Refor- 
mation, the  cli.  was  divided  into  two  parts,  and  service 
was  held  in  each.  Eor  interesting  details,  see  Eergus- 
%Qi\'^  Architecture.  The  ^  Crypt  is  unique  in  beauty, 
and  is  certainly  one  of  the  most  perfect  pieces  of  archi- 
tecture in  Britain.  It  is  supported  by  65  pillars  (18  ft. 
high),  seme  of  which  are  18  ft  in  circumference ;  and 
illuminated  from  41  windows.  The  piers  and  groin- 
ings  are  of  exquisitely  beautiful  and  varied  designs. 
In  the  centre  stands  the  shrine  of  St.  Mungo.  At  the 
S.  E.  corner  is  St.  Mungo's  Well.  See  also  the  tomb 
of  Edward    Irricg,  who   died   at    Glasgow   in  1834:. 


SCOTLAND.  65 

tn  "Rob  Roy"  there  is  an  interesting  description  of 
this  crypt.  Other  things  to  note  are  the '  stained- 
glass  windows,  executed  in  Munich,  for  £100,000  (ex- 
planations of  the  windows,  2d.) ;  the  Dripping  Aide, 
so  called  from  the  perpetual  dripping  of  water  from  the 
roof;  the  Choir,  locally  known  as  the  High  Ch.,noyf 
ased  as  one  of  the  city  chs. ;  magnificent  organ  here  ; 
behind  it,  the  chapel  and  the  chapter-house.  The  curi^ 
ous  old  ch.-yard  is  literally  paved  with  stone  slabs,  with 
inscriptions  to  the  memory  of  local  notables. 

The  new  University,  the  most  imposing  modern 
edifice  in  Scotland,  is  approached  through  West  End 
Park :  take  the  footpath  from  the  bridge  over  the 
Kelvin.  From  the  platform,  good  view.  The  Univer- 
sity has  a  frontage  of  600  ft.,  with  fine  central  tower^ 
310  ft,  high.  The  architect  was  the  late  Sir  G.  Gilbert 
Scott.  In  general  style  the  buildings  are  Early  Eng- 
lish. ^  The  buildings  will  have  cost  £500,000.  The- 
museum,  rich  in  mineralogy,  geology,  and  natural  his- 
tory, is  open  daily,  10-3  (admission,  6d.).  In  the 
Hunterian  Library,  valuable  series  of  early  printed 
books.  The  University  was  founded  about  1450  by 
Bishop  Turnbull.  In  15  GO  Queen  Mary  endowed  it 
with  a  moiety  of  the  confiscated  Church  property  in  the- 
city.  Its  renown  as  a  seat  of  learning  culminated  in 
the  last  century.  Gullen  and  Black,  Hunter  and  Reid,, 
Adam  Smith  and  Watt,  are  among  the  great  names  asso- 
ciated with  it.  Near  by  is  the  Botanical  Garden.  The 
Corporation  Galleries  of  Art  have  valuable  collections' 
of  paintings  (by  Claude,  Cuyp,  Teniers,  Murillo,  etc.)  ; 
also  a  marble  statue  of  Pitt,  by  Elaxman,  and  por- 
traits of  the  English  kings.  Galleries  open  daily,  Sun- 
days excepted.  See  8t.  Andreic's  Palace  and  the 
Kelmn  Grove  Park  and  Museum.  The  park  contains- 
a  fountain  commemorating  the  introduction  of  water 

5 


66  DUMBAKTON    CASTLE. 

from  Loch  Katrine.  In  Kelvin  Grove  is  the  Inaustrial 
Museum. '  Near  the  University  is  the  New  Western 
Injirmary.  The  beautiful  squares  and  terraces  in  the 
W.  contain  tlie  homes  of  the  rich  merchants,  the  "to- 
bacco lords,"  and  the  great  ship-builders. 

Grlasgow  Green  is  a  park  extending  1  M.  along 
the  Cl,yde,  adorned  with  an  obelisk  to  Lord  Nelson, 
and  the  scene  of  very  remarkable  open-air  preaching 
on  summer  Sunday  evenings.  Li  this  park  Prince 
Charles  Edward  reviewed  his  army  in  1745  ;  and  here, 
also,  Watt  was  strolling  when  the  central  idea  of  the 
steam-engine  occurred  to  him.  To  the  S.  of  Queen's 
Fark  is  the  village  of  Langdde,  where  Queen  Mary  met 
with  her  final  defeat,  in  1568.  A  memorial  stone  marks 
the  spot  wlience  Mary  witnessed  the  battle. 

Excursions  around  Glasgovr.  —  To  Greenock, 
by  the  river ;  past  the  suburb  of  Govan  and  the  ship- 
yards of  Messrs.  Napier,  etc. ;  the  old  royal  burgh  of 
Renfrew,  near  which  SomerleJ,  Thane  of  Argyll,  was 
defeated  and  slain  in  1164 ;  Erskine  Eerry,  Mdiere  the 
Earl  of  Argyll  was  captured,  in  1685,  in  the  disguise 
of  a  peasant ;  Dalnottar  and  the  craggy  Kilpatrick 
Hills  ;  Bowling,  near  the  high  ruins  of  Dunglas  Castle 
and  the  end  of  Antoninus's  wall ;  and  Dunglaspoint, 
with  its  monument  to  Henry  Bell,  who  first  introduced 
steam  navigation  on  the  Clyde.  Dumbarton  Castle, 
at  the  junction  of  the  Leven  (Loch  Lomond's  outlet) 
and  Clyde,  is  on  a  rock  measuring  1  M.  around  and 
560  ft.  high.  Part  of  it  bears  the  name  of  Wallace's 
Tower.  The  Scottish  hero  was  imprisoned  there ;  and 
his  huge  two-handed  sword  is  still  shown.  There  is  a 
tradition  that  Satan  threw  Dumbarton  Rock  at  St. 
Patrick.  The  castle  is  one  of  four  garrisoned  in  Scot- 
land by  the  British  army,  and  commands  the  Clyde  with 
batterie*..     It  was  the  capital  of  a  Roman  province. 


SCOTLAND.  67 

and  afterwards  repelled  the  Norwegian  Vikings.  It 
was  held  by  Robert  Bruce  in  1309;  and  in  1571  Capt. 
Crawford  carried  it  by  escalade,  at  night.  In  1653 
it  was  taken  by  Cromwell's  troops.  At  the  portculis 
may  be  seen  carven  heads  of  Wallace,  and  Menteith, 
his  betrayer.  At  the  summit  the  remains  of  a 
Roman  fort  are  shown.  Queen  Mary  spent  some 
time  here.  2  M.  from  Dumbarton  is  the  village  of 
Cardross,  where  stood  the  old  castle  in  which  King 
Robert  Bruce  died,  in  1329.  Greenock  {Tontine 
Hotel;  White  Hart;  Royal;  rail,  from  Glasgow, 
Is.  6d. ;  population,  80,000)  is  one  of  the  chief  sea- 
ports of  Great  Britain,  and  very  picturesquely  situ- 
ated. Vast  new  docks  are  being  built.  The  ship- 
yards are  among  the  largest  on  the  Clyde.  The 
ocean  steamers  for  New  York  take  their  passengers 
and  mails  at  the  Tail  of  the  Bank.  Fine  view,  from 
the  shore,  of  the  mts.  of  Argyllshire  and  Dumbarton- 
shire. Burns's  "Highland  Mary"  is  buried  in  the 
old  kirkyard.  There  is  a  beautiful  statue  of  James 
Watt,  by  Chantrey,  in  a  memorial  building  in  Union- 
St.  Travellers  going  to  Oban  and  Inveraray  should 
take  steamer  at  Greenock.  Nearly  opposite  is 
Helensburgh  (Queen's  Hotel;  Imperial),  a  pretty 
town,  much  frequented  in  summer  by  pleasure- 
seekers.  The  Crareloch  is  the  name  of  a  fine  sea- 
basin  (steamers  ply  on  it),  which  stretches  N.  from 
Helensburgh  for  about  7^  M.  Its  shores  are  covered 
with  beautiful  villas,  Roseneath,  Ardincaple  Castle, 
etc.     The  famous  Glen  Fruin  lies  on  the  E. 

Another  good  excursion  can  be  made  in  one  day  by 
Caledonian  Rly.  to  Hamilton,  passing  throughi^^^^^er- 
glen,  a  royal  burgh  as  early  as  1126,  Hamilton 
{County  Hotel;  Clydesdale)  contains  many  interest- 
ing historical  places.  See  site  of  King's  Head,  where 
Cromwell  lodged  during  his  foray  into  Scotland;  and 


68  HAMILTON   PALACE.  —  LANARK. 

the  old  Steeple  and  PiJhn/,  built  in  tlie  reign  of 
Cimrles  I.  Ham.ilton  Palace,  seat  of  tlie  Duke  of 
Hamilton  and  Brandon,  stands  in  a  beautiful  park ; 
2  M.  S.  E.  are  the  ruins  of  Cadzoic  Castle.  On  Both- 
well  Bridge,  2  M.  !N.  of  Hamilton,  a  famous  encoun- 
ter between  the  Covenanters  and  the  Royal  forces 
took  place  in  1679.  A  little  berond  is  Bothicell,  noted 
for  its  old  ch..  "vrhere  Robert,  Duke  of  Rolhesav,  was 
married.  Both-well  Castle  (admission,  Tues.  and 
Fri.,  10-3  :  see  local  guide-books)  is  on  the  r.  bank 
of  the  Clyde,  1  M.  from  the  Tillage.  The  ruins  afford 
an  almost  perfect  example  of  Nonnan  architecture. 
See  the  circular  towers  ;  remains  of  tlie  chapel,  with 
shafted  windows  :  and  a  circular  dungeon  called  Wal- 
lace's Beef-barrel.  The  walls  are  covered  with  ivy  and 
^'^ild  roses.  The  walk  between  Hamilton  and  Bothwell 
is  extremely  interesting. 

Lanark  {Clydesdale  Hotet)  was  th«.  scene  of  many 
of  TTallace's  exploits.  There  is  a  statue  of  him  at  the 
palish  ch.  Corra  Linn  is  \\  ]\I.  S.,  a  beautiful  fall 
of  85  ft.  ;  and  the  pretty  Bonnington  Linn  is  \  .M. 
beyond.  Stonehyres  Linn,  is  2i  M.  N.  of  Lanark,  near 
the  Cartland  Crags.     Tickets  must  be  obtained. 

The  Scottish  Highlands. 

A  Tx.ound  Trip  from  Glasgow  to  Gtasgoxc  by  icaj/  of  Loch 
Lomond,  Loch  Katrine,  the  Trossachs,  and  Callander  ^, 
from  Callander  to  Ohan  :  with  E.rcnrsions  from  Oban  ro 
Stajf'a,  lona,  and  Invert! ess ;  andfrotn  Oban  to  Glasgoic, 
by  the  Crinan  Canal  and  Rothesay. 

We  recommend  this  route  as  giving  a  wide  survey 
of  typical  Scotch  mt.,  lake,  and  coast  scenery,  within 
a  brief  period  and  at  small  cost.  The  trip'  through 
the  lochs  and  the  Trossachs  to  CaHander  besi'^  at  the 


SCOTLA>'D. 


Qaeen-St.  stat.  in  Glasgow,  at  T.40  a-M.  B«y  tt 
■::;ket  for  IiiTersiiaid,  the  p:>iiit  at  whiea  Ixj^ho- 
-  - 1  is  left  rfare.  9<.'3»1.),  and  prcKjeed  by  train  to 
Ij.^^..^-K  (20  M.}.  The  roate  passes  Dambarton.  and 
rives  a  good  view  of  Wallace's  Seat:  throag-h  the 
vallev  where,  in  the  parish  of  Cardr-oss  Smoliett,  the 
historian  and  novelist,  was  bom:  and  up  the  glen  of 
the  Leven's  transparent  water.  At  Baiiocfa.  the- tram. 
stops  close  to  the  steamer. 

LrOch  Lomond  is  certainly  very  beantifol  when. 
the  sunlight  plays  iip''>n  the  water  and  on  tne  guard- 
hua.  mts.  It  is  about  23  31.  long,  arnl,  at  its  S.  end^ 
5  M.  broad-  Under  the  base  of  Ben  Loaionditis 
120  fathoms  deep.  The  area  covered  by  water  i* 
20^0»>O  acres  ;  32  islands  are  scattered  over  the  laker- 
bearing  ruins  of  ancient  mnnasteries  and  castles. 
3Eost  of  these  belong  to  the  Dnke  of  ilontrose.  wlio 
nses  In^hmurrm.  the  largest,  as  a  deer-park.  "  Loc-h. 
Lomond.~  says  Ba^ideley.  "has  neither  the  match- 
less depth  and  delic-acy  of  coloring  which  character- 
ises the  foot  of  Loch  Katrine,  nor  the  wild  grandeur 
of  Loch  Coroisk.  njr.  in  taimess  let  ns  adi  the 
dignity  of  LoehMaree;  bt^  .  .  .  it  blends  to- 
gether in  one  scene  a  greater  Tariety  of  the  elements 
which  we  admire  in  lake  sc-enery  than  aay  other 
Scottish  loeh.'*'  The  steamer  leaves  Balloeh  Castle^ 
o»  ther. ;  passes  to  the  r  of  Inehmurrin.  with  its- 
mined  Casfle,  said  calls  Srst  at  Balmaha.  Xear  b^ 
is  InekcaiUoeh,  the  "  Island  of  Women ''  (so  called. 
'ecarise  a  nnnnery  once  existed  there).  It  is  the^ 
.  "irying-place  of  the  ilicgregors.  The  next  iandint;- 
'  lac-e  is  Lnss,  on  the  L  ;  a  pictaresque  little  village, 
^th  a  g(X>d  hotel.  Fine  Tiew  of  the  lake  from.  Stone 
Brae  hiil  As  boat  mores  X.,  the  great  mass  of  Ben 
Lomcmd  comes  fnlly  into  view.  Rrneardennan,  on 
:.,  has  a  hotel.    Here  is  best  starting-point  for  the- 


70  BEN   LOMOND.  —  TARBET. 

ascent  of  Ben  Lomond,  3,192  ft.  high,  and  the  favor, 
ite  chmb  ni  Scotland.  The  rough  pony-track  begins 
opposite  the  hotel,  and  chmbs  over  the  ridge  between 
Loch  Lomond  and  the  Loch-ard  valley.  Ascents  also 
are  made  from  Inversnaid  and  Aberfoil.  In  clear 
-weather  the  castles  of  Stirling  and  Edinburgh,  and  the 
Firth  of  Forth,  can  be  seen.  Time  from  Rowarden- 
nan,  2-3  hrs.  ;  distance,  6  M. ;  pony  and  guide,  8s. 
Opposite  llowardennan  is  Glen  Douglas  (Inveruglas 
■  Hotel),  from  which  point  a  pretty  road  leads  to  Loch 
Long.  Glen  Douglas  can  be  reached  by  feri-y  across 
the  lake.  The  boat  moves  on  under  the  shadow  of 
Ben  Lomond,  and  crosses  to  the  1.  bank,  to 

Tarbet  affords  a  goocT  view  of  Ben  Lomond  ;  it  is 
.charmingly  situated,  8  M.  from  head  of  loch.  From 
thence  coach  may  be  taken  to  Locli  Long,  or  to  In- 
verary  by  Glencroe  (24  M. ;  fare,  8s.).  Loch  Long 
(salt  water)  is  separated  from  Loch  Lomond  by  a  well- 
wooded  isUnnus.  Glencroe  is  a  wild  mt.  pass,  860  ft. 
high.  From  here  the  road  to  Liverary  turns  N., 
and  skirts  the  upper  edge  of  Loch  Fyne.  Inverary 
{^Argyll  Arms ;  George)  is  a  small  town  celebrated 
as  the  Highland  headquarters  of  the  Duke  of  Argyll 
(the  MacCallum  Mor).  Inverary  Castle,  the  ducal 
residence,  is  an  ugly  building  in  the  midst  of  beautiful 
grounds.  This  point  may  be  reached  by  other  routes 
from  Glasgow,  especially  by  the  steamer  Lord  of  the 
{des  (fares,  7s.  6d.,  6s.,  5s.). 

From  Tarbet  cross  Loch  Lomond  to  Inversnaid, 
where  coaches  are  taken  for  Loch  Katrine.  The  head 
of  Loch  Lomond  is  3  M.  above.  I  M.  above  is  Rob 
Roy's  Cave,  a  narrow  opening  in  tlie  bank  near  the 
water's  edge,  where  it  is  said  that  Rob  Roy  kept  his 
prisoners.  Ardlui  is  the  last  town  on  the  lake ;  eoacheS 
to  Crianlarich  (9  M.),  whence  rly.  to  Oban. 


SCOTLAND.  71 

Inversnaid  lias  a  comfortable  iiotel.  The^  is  a 
scramble  for  places  on  the  coaches  for  Loch  Katrine ; 
and  the  canny  Scot  exacts  2d.  pier  dues  from  each  person. 
The  Inversnaid  Waterfall  is  where  Wordsworth  met 
the  "  Higliland  Girl,"  of  w^'om  he  saug  so  sweetly. 
Opposite  Inversuaid  is  Inveruglas  Isle,  on  which  are 
the  ruins  of  an  ancient  castle  of  the  Macfarlanes.  The 
road  to  Loch  Katrine  (5  M.)  lies  over  a  very  steep 
hill,  by  the  hovels  pointed  out  as  the  former  homes 
of  Rob  Roy  and  Helen  Macgregor;  the  Fort  of  Invers- 
naid,  erected  to  clieck  the  depredations  of  Rob  Roy's 
band,  —  Gen.  Wolfe  was  once  quartered  there;  and 
Loch  Arklef,  half-way  to  Stronachlachar  Pier,  on  a 
bay  near  the  W,  end  of  Loch  Katrine,  At  the  hotel 
here  a  good  lunch  can  be  obtained. 

Loch  Katrine  (or  Cateran,  "  Robbers' Lake ")  is 
Glasgow's  reservoir.  The  water  drunk  by  the  750,000 
people  gathered  on  the  banks  of  the  Clyde  is  conveyed 
from  this  lovely  basin  for  34  M,  The  aqueduct  re- 
quired the  building  of  70  tunnels,  and  cost  £1,500,000, 

A  Lilliputian  steamer  (fare,  2s.  6d.)  carries  you  past 
Ellen's  Isle  (see  "The  Lady  of  the  Lake  "),  the  Silver 
Strand,  and  the  Goblin  s  Cave ;  and  affords  glimpses 
of  "  huge  Ben  Venue."  The  loch  is  8  M.  long,  and 
averages  |  M.  wide.  To  be  seen  to  advantage,  it  must 
have  plenty  of  sunshine,  and  then  it  seems  "  one  bur- 
nished sheet  of  living  gold." 

You  land  where  all  the  beauties  of  the  lake  are 
concentrated.  If  you  can,  by  all  means  walk  up 
through  the  gorge  to  the  Trossachs  Hoiel  (1  M.).  The 
Trossachs,  the  "bristling  country,"  gains  in  loveli- 
ness in  a  rainy  day.  There  is  something  weird  in  a 
ride  through  this  leafy  glen,  witli  the  rain  rustling  in 
the  trees.  The  gorge  extends  from  Loch  Katrine  to 
Loch  Achray,  between  the  range  of  Ben  A'an,  on  the 


73       LOCH  ACHRAY.— LOCH  VENNACHAl. 

r.  (1,500  ft.),  and  Ben  Venue  (2,393  ft.)  on  the  1.  In 
this  labyrinth  of  rocks  and  mounds,  of  oak  and  rowan 
and  birch,  of  crag  and  grove  and  tarn,  the  most  pro- 
saic traveller  may  well  become  enthusiastic.  Walter 
Scott's  poems  are  good  companions  here.  In  Scott's 
early  days  there  was  no  road  through  this  pass.  The 
Trossachs  Hotel  is  a  pretty  (and  dear)  house.  Excur- 
sions thence  to  Ben  Venue  and  Ben  A'an  and  the 
Pass  of  Beal-nam-bo.  By  the  Aberfoyle  coach 
from  the  Trossachs  you  have  finer  view  but  you 
miss  the  Brig  o'  Turk  and  much  else  of  great 
interest. 

Distances  hy  Road. — Loch  Katrine  to  Trossachs 
Hotel,  1  M.;  Loch  Achray,  2i;  Brig  o'  Turk,  3i: 
Loch  Vennachar,  4-^;  Coilantogle  Ford,  7;  Callander, 
9|-,  Loch  Achray  is  noticeable  for  its  tranquil 
beauty.  It  is  8  M.  long,  and  the  shores  are  clad  with 
copse  to  the  very  water's  edge.  "The  Lady  of  the 
Lake  "  will  be  found  the  best  guide  here.  You  next 
reach  the^W^o'  Turk,  where,  m  the  famous  chase,  as 
Sir  Walter  informs  us,  "the  headmost  horseman  rode 
alone."  Near  this  bridge  over  Achray  Water  is  the 
blackened  ruin  of  the  New  Trossachs  Hotel.  Fine 
view  of  Ben  Venue  from  here.  Next  comes  the  Dun- 
craggan  Huts;  and  then  Loch  Vennachar  (4  M. 
long) .  the  "  Lake  of  the  Fair  Valley."  On  the  N. 
shore  is  Ben  Ledi,  the  "Hill  of  God  '"'  (2,875  ft.).  To 
climb  Ben  Ledi  by  the  Pass  of  Leny  is  an 
admirable  excursion.  Here  you  are  in  the 
real  Highland  country.  The  hills  are  aglow  with 
purple  colors;  the  black-faced  cattle  with  widely 
projecting  horns  look  down  defiantly  at  you 
from  the  steep  pasturages;  a  countryman  in  kilt 
trudges  by.  The  coaches  rattle  past  Coilantogle 
Ford,  "Clan -Alpine's  outmost  guard,"  where  K.ode¥" 
ick  Dhu  challenged  Fitz  James,  and  bring  up  in  Cal- 


SCOTLAND.  73 

Wder.  Here  you  may  take  train  to  Stirling  and 
Edinburgh ;  but  if  you  desire  to  see  the  real  High- 
lands, continue  on  our  route. 

Callander  {Dreadnauglit ;  Hydropathic;  An- 
caster  Arms)  is  in  the  centre  of  a  delicious  country. 
If  M.  from  the  town  are  the  Bracklinn  Falls.  A  pleas- 
ant excursion  may  be  made  through  the  Pass  of  Leny 
to  Strathyre,  returning  by  train  (8^  M.  to  walk).  It 
is  easy  to  climb  Ben  Ledi  thence  (3  hrs. ;  pony  and 
guide,  10s.),  and  stand  on  the  sinootli  green  summit 
where  the  ancient  Druid  fires  were  l<ept.. 

From  Callander  to  Oban.  —  Rly.  fare,  1st  class, 
12s.  ;  time,  3-4  hrs.  This  line  is  one  of  the  most 
beautiful  in  Scotland,  and  was  one  of  the  most  ex- 
pensive. Including  the  harbor-works  at  Oban,  it  cost 
£615,000.  The  line  crosses  the  Teith;  skirts  the  base 
of  Ben  Ledi  ;  and  traverses  the  Fass  of  Leny,  which  ex- 
tends between  Callander  and  Loch  Lubnaig.  This 
loch  is  5  M.  long  and  1  M.  broad,  and  surrounded  by 
high  mts.  Near  the  Falls  of.  Leni/  is  the  churchyard 
of  the  Chapel  of  St.  Bride,  noticed  in  the  "  Lady  of  the 
Lake."  Just  beyond  Locli  Lubnaig  the  rly.  crosses 
the  River  Baloag,  and  passes  Strathyre  and  King's* 
House  stat.,  whence  Batquhidder  and  Loch  Voil  can  be 
visited  (2  M.).  In  the  graveyard  of  the  old  ivy- 
covered  chapel  of  Balquhidder  is  the  stone  said  to  cover 
the  grave  of  Rob  Roy.  The  hamlet  is  intimately 
connected  with  the  history  of  the  Macgregors.  The 
road  now  rises,  and  gives  a  good  view  of  Loch  Earn 
and  Ben  Vorlich,  on  the  E.  It  next  traverses  Glen 
Ogle.  The  rly.  is  constructed  on  the  side,  300-400  ft. 
above  the  lowest  level.  The  margin  of  Loch  Bocha.rty 
above  which  rises  Ben  More,  is  next  passed;  after 
which  Crianlarich  stat.  (coaches  to  Loch  Lomond)  is 
reached,     A  fine  stretch  of  Highland  landscape  is  seen 


74  LOCHAWE.-OBAN. 

shortly  before  arriving  at  Dalmally.  Just  beyond 
Dalraally,  Loch  Awe,  one  of  the  most  picturesque 
of  the  Highland  lakes,  22  M.  in  length,  is  reached. 
Near  it  is  Be7i  Cruachan  (3,611  ft.);  and  in  the  lake 
are  many  islands,  the  largest  being  the  Idand  of  the 
Druids.  At  the  N.  end  stand  the  ruins  of  Kilchurn 
Castle;  and  in  the  centre  of  the  lake,  on  an  islet,  are 
the  ruins  of  the  ancient  castle  of  Ardconnel,  a  former 
seat  of  the  Campbells.  The  rly.  descends  towards 
the  head  of  Loch  Awe,  and  crosses  the  Orcliy  on  a 
viaduct.  From  Taynuilt,  on  Loch  Etive,  a  steamer 
may  be  taken,  and  a  circular  trip  to  Olencoe  (34  M.) 
and  Balachulish  (41  M.)  begun.  Beyond  is  Connell 
Ferry,  near  the  Falls  of  Connell.  To  the  r.  stands 
the  ivy-mantled  Ardchattan  Priory,  built  in  1231  by 
the  Lord  of  Lome,  and  burned  during  the  wars  of 
Montrose. 

Oban  (hotels,  good,  but  expensive:  Gt.  Western; 
Alexandra  ;  Caledonian  ;  Station  ;  King's  Arms  ; 
Columhia  ;  Argyll ;  and  on  the  hill,  the  Craig-Ard) 
Is  the  most  central  point  for  excursions  through  this 
weird  northern  land  of  lochs  and  islands,  which  has 
always  had  a  strange  glamour  of  romance  about  it. 
It  is  also  the  meeting-place  of  southern  fashionables 
and  members  of  the  English  nobility  and  the  re- 
public of  letters.  Oban  extends  along  and  above  a 
pretty  bay,  and  is  the  most  accessible  place  N.  of 
Glasgow.  Vessels  can  anchor  safely  within  a  few 
yards  of  the  shore.  Dunollie  Castle,  1  M.  distant, 
nobly  placed  on  a  pedestal  of  rock  at  the  N.  end  of 
the  bay,  and  covered  with  ivy,  was  built  by  the 
Lords  of  Lome,  and  is  now  owned  by  their  descend- 
ants, the  M'Dougalls.  The  rocky  island  of  Kerr  era, 
4  M.  long,  serves  as  a  breakwater  to  the  bay. 
It  was  here  (in  1263)  that  Haco,  King  of  Nor- 
way, met  the  Highland  chiefs  who  aided  him  in  his 
disastrous  raid  on  the  coast  of  Scotland.     Here,  also, 


SCOTLAND.  75 

A.io..c4a^^x  ll,  died,  in  1249.  The  seaward  view  from 
tlie  lieiglits,  readied  by  Craigard  road,  is  very  fine, 
Scott  made  the  popularity  of  Oban  by  iiis  poem,  "  The 
Lord  of  the_  Isles,"  the  scene  of  which  is  laid  here- 
abouts, and  in  the  islands  on  the  W.  Fine  prome;nade 
along  the  bay.  Dunstaffnage  Castle,  4  M.  N.  E'., 
was  the  seat  of  the  Scottish  monarchs  for  more  than 
3  centuries  (a.  d.  300-600).  There  was  the  famous 
Coronation  Stone,  finally  removed  to  Westminster. 
Admission  to  the  castle,  tree. 

To  Staffa  and  lona  is  a  sea  voyage  of  about  90  M, 
(10  lirs.).  Boats  leave  the  pier  at  8  a.m.  Fare,  about 
20s.,  inckiding  the  landings  at  Staffa  and  loua.  The 
steamer  passes  on  the  r.  Bunollie  and  Maiden  Inland, 
and  the  Lighthouse,  at  the  S.  end  of  LUmore,  near 
which  is  the  Ladj/  Rock,  where,  according  to  tradition, 
a  vindictive  Highlander  left  his  wife  to  perish  by  the 
rising  tide.  The  boat  next  passes  through  the  Sound 
of  Mull,  which  separates  Mull  from  the  mainland; 
crosses  the  mouth  of  Loch  Aline,  on  whose  shore  lived 
Dr.  Norman  MacLeod,  the  former  editor  of  Good 
Words;  calls  at  Tobermory,  near  the  mansion  of  Alex- 
ander Allan,  of  the  Allan  Line ;  passes  the  Caliack 
Point,  whence  a  good  view  N.  can  generally  be  had  as 
far  as  Skve ;  and  then  goes  S.  to 

The  Island  of  Staffa,  8  M.  from  Mull.  It  is  of 
irregular  oval  shape,  and  \\  M.  around.  This  island 
and  lona  are  owned  by  the  Duke  of  Argyll.  When 
the  sea  is  reasonably  calm,  passengers  are  conveyed 
in  small  boats  into  the  mouth  of  Fingal's  Cave,  60- 
70  ft.  in  height,  supporting  an  entablature  of  30  ft, 
additional.  The  pillars  by  which  it  is  bonnded  on  the 
W.  side  are  36  ft.  high','  on  the  E.  only  18  ft.  The 
length  is  227  ft.  The  finest  views  are  obtained  througn 
the  end  of  the  causeway  at  low  water.     The  front  and 


7b  10NA.-t!ALEDONlAN  CANAL 

sides  are  composed  of  countless  ranges  of  columns. 
A  shepherd  and  his  wife  were  sent  to  Staila,  to  take 
care  of  the  sheep;  but  the  noice  of  the  waveo  was  so 
dismal  that  they  begged  to  be  taken  away  8  M.  S. 
is  lona  (4  square  M.  in  area),  which  was  founded  in 
the  6th  century  by  St.  (Jolumba  and  the  Culdees,  and 
often  ravaged  by  the  Norsemen  and  Danes.  Visit  the 
ruins  of  the  Numiery  of  St.  Mary,  dating  from  the  ]3th 
century ;  and  the  ancient  Cathedral ;  also  the  great 
Stone  Cross,  the  only  one  remaining  of  360  once  stand- 
ing on  the  island,  but  broken  and  thrown  into  the  sea 
at  the  Reformation.  The  run  back  to  Oban  by  tlie  S. 
■of  Mull  is,  in  fine  weather,  very  charming.     Do  not 

;forget  plenty  of  wraps  and  waterproofs. 

Another  excursion,  made  in  one  day,  is  from  Oban  to 
Lock  Etive,  Glen  Etice,  and  Glencoe,  and  thence  to 
Balachulish,  returning  by  Loch  Linnhe.  Time,  about 
10  hrs.  ;  fare,  by  rail  and  steamer,  25s.  Another  is 
from  Oban  to  Ford  by  the  Fass  of  Mel  fort,  returning 
by  Loch  Awe  and  the  Oban  Uly.     This  may  be  made 

.  comfortably  between  9  a.m.  and  5  p.m.  Fares,  17s., 
15s.  6d.     Another  is  to  Fort  William,  Ben.  Nevis,  and 

.  Banavie,  interesting,  but  long,  for  vacation  tourists. 

The  Caledonian  Canal. — People  who  have  time 
to  go  to  Inverness  should  take  steamer  through  the 
great  Caledonian  Canal,  built  1803-47,  and  60^  M. 
long.  It  was  necessary  to  cut  through  only  23  M., 
as  the  sheets  of  fresh  water  which  abound  in  the  Great 

'  Glen  of  Scotland  were  utilized.  The  depth  of  water  is 
about  17  ft.  The  steamer  going  N.  leaves  Oban  at 
5  P.M.,  and  passengers  sleep  at  Banavie  {Banavie 
Hotel)  or  Fort  William  {Caledonian).  Loch 
Linnhe,  through  which  the  steamers  pass,  is  famous 
for  beautiful  scenery.  Fort  William  was  one  of  the 
keys  of  the  Highlands,  built  by  Gen.  Monk.     Note 


SCOTLAND.  77 

Inverlochj  Castle,  famous  in  ancient  wars,  near  the 
taouth  of  the  Lundie.  Erom  Fort  William  to  Banavie 
is  3  M.  Beyi  Nevis,  near  here,  4,406  ft.  high,  is  the 
highest  mt.  in  Scotland.  It  is  a  vast  mass  of  brown 
porphyry,  cleft  with  glens  and  fissures  ;  and  on  itt 
crags  the  snow  lies  all  summer.  The  view  is  100  M. 
in  diameter,  including  all  the  chief  peaks  of  Scotland. 
From  Bauavie,  the  ascent  (8  M.)  occupies  3^-5  hrs.  ■ 
(descent,  1|  hrs.).  Glen  Nevis  is  worth  a  visit.  Shortly 
after  leaving  Banavie,  the  steamer  passes  (on  the  r.) 
the  ruined  Tor  Castle.  On  the  W.  side  of  Loch  Locliy 
see  the  ruined  home  of  Lochiel,  whose  fidelity  and  exile 
are  famous.  Loch  Lochy  is  10  M.  long ;  and  a  canal, 
2  M.  in  length,  leads  to  Loch  Oich  (4  M.),  the  central 
lake  of  the  chain,  as  well  as  the  smallest  and  highest. 
On  its  W.  shore  stands  Invergarry  Castle,  burned  in 
the  revolution  of  1745  ;  and  near  the  castle  is  "The 
Well  of  Seven  Heads,"  commemorating  the  vengeance 
on  the  murderers  of  the  Keppochs.  At  Aberchalder 
the  steamer  descends  7  locks  to  Fort  Augustus.  Pas- 
sengers can  walk  down  in  about  1^  hrs.  At  Fort 
Augustus  is  the  College  of  St.  Benedict,  a  vast  pile  of 
buildings  in  the  Early  English  Gothic  style.  Loch 
Ness,  "the  loch  of  the  cataract,"  is  24  M.  long,  and 
has  a  depth  of  130  fathoms.  At  the  pier  oi  Foyers  the 
steamer  stops  long  enough  to  permit  a  visit  to  the 
beautiful  Fall  of  Foyers  (1  M.  S.),  "the  most  magnifi- 
cent cataract  in  Britain."  The  height  of  the  larger 
fall  is  about  90  ft.  Burns  wrote  a  fine  description  of 
the  scene.  There  is  a  charming  route  along  the  hills, 
between  Foyers  and  Inverness.  This  is  the  country 
for  pedestrian  tours.  At  the  N.  base  of  the  great  peak 
of  Mealfourvonie,  are  the  ruins  of  Urquhart  Castle^ 
oesieged  in  1303  by  the  troops  of  Edward  I.  The 
guides  show  an  arrangement  in  the  windows  for  pout* 


78  INVERNESS.-NAIRN. 

ins:  molten  lead  on  besiegers.  8  M.  from  TJrqiihart, 
Loch  Dochfou?'  is  entered  by  a  narrow  passage,  ^  M. 
long ;  and  the  steamer  presently  reaches  Muirtown, 
a  suburb  of 

Inverness  {Alexa7idra;  Royal;  Caledonian;  Station; 
Imiperial).  This  venerable  capital  of  the  Highlands 
is  situated  at  the  mouth  of  the  river  ISTess,  where  the 
basins  of  the  Moray  and  Beauly  Firths  and  the  Glen 
of  Scotland  meet.  Macbeth,  Malcolm  Canmore, 
James  I.,  Queen  Mary,  Montrose,  and  other  famous 
Scots  are  connected  with  its  history.  The  new 
Cathedral  of  St.  Andrew  is  a  beautiful  decorated 
Gothic  ch.  6  M.  out  is  the  battlefield  of  Cuiloden, 
where  the  hopes  of  the  House  of  Stuart  were  finally 
extinguished,  in  1746.  The  cairn  of  stones  marks 
the  place  where  the  battle  took  place ;  and  the  large 
bowlder  shows  where  the  Duke  of  Cumberland. took 
up  his  position.  An  excursion  may  be  made  from 
Inverness  to  Cawdor  Castle,  rendered  famous  by 
Shakespeare,  and  a  fine  specimen  of  the  old  baronial 
strongholds.  Splendid  view  from  the  battlements. 
Nairn,  15^  M.  from  Inverness,  is  a  fashionable  resort 
for  sea-bathing.  JSTear  it  is  Aiddearn,  where  Mon- 
trose won  a  great  battle  over  the  Covenanters,  who 
lost  2,000-3,000  men.  The  Inverness  region  was  the 
scene  of  Hugh  Miller's  geological  researches.  Persons 
who  have  come  from  Oban  to  Inverness  may  go 
down  to  Edinburgh  via  Stirling  (213|-  M. ;  fares, 
34s.  6d.,  25s.  lOd.,  18s.). 

From  Oban  to  Glasgow. — We  return  by  the 
Crinan  Canal.  This  charming  journey  may  be 
made  between  8  a.m.  and  6  p.m.  (fares,  13s.,  7s.  6d.); 
and  we  recommend  it  as  the  l)est  way  back. 
The  Chevalier,  Grenadier,  Columba,  are  mag- 
nificent boats,  equipped  on  an  American  scale 
of  comfort.  From  Oban  the  boats  go  down 
the    Sound    of    Kerrera,   pass    Cylen    Castle    and 


SCOTLAND.  79 

ihe  island  of  Mull,  through  tlie  Eh-th  of  Lome,  and 
the  Little  Easdale  Sound.  There  are  only  one  or  two 
places  where  the  boat  emerges  into  open  water,  and  so 
nothing  is  to  be  feared  from  sea-sickness.  The  route 
lies  inside  the  island  of  Seil  to  Blackmill  Baj,  and  past 
the  mouth  of  Loch  Craignish,  leaving  Shmia  and  Ltdng 
Islands  on  the  r.  At  Crinan  passengers  are  trans- 
ferred from  the  boat  to  a  little  steamer,  and  carried 
through  the  Crinan  Canal,  9  M.  long,  to  Loch  Fyne. 
The  canal  was  built  (in  1801)  to  obviate  the  necessity 
of  doubling  the  Mull  of  Kintyre,  a  dangerous  route  of 
70  M.  The  views  are  pretty,  and  the  passage  of  the  9 
locks  is  curious ;  the  journey  is  well  worth  taking.  At 
Ardrishaig  passengers  go  on  the  Columba,  a  large 
and  fine  steamer.  Dinner  is  served  on  board  (3s.). 
Look  well  to  your  baggage.  From  Ardrishaig  the  boat 
moves  down  Loch  Fyne  to  Tarbert.  Good  views  of 
the  peaks  of  Ben  Cruachan  on  the  N.^  and  the  Arran, 
(.mts.  on  the  S.  After  a  pleasant  passage  through  the 
picturesque  Kyles  of  Bute,  a  strait  between  Bute  and 
the  mainland,  the  boat  touches  at  Rothesay  {Queen''.'< 
Hotel;  Royal;  Bate  Arms),  a  handsome  town  of 
about  8,000  inhab.,  the  capital  of  the  island  of  Bute 
(18  X  5  M,  in  area), standing  by  a  fine  bay.  Here  are 
^  the  ruins  of  Rothesay  Castle,  built  before  1100; 
and  once  a  royal  residence.  The  dukedom  of 
j  Rothesay  was  the  first  conferred  in  Scotland.  The 
brother  of  the  Earl  of  Argyll  burned  the  castle  in 
1 1685,  See  the  ruins  of  the  choir  of  the  old  Kirk  of 
St.  3£ciry.  Rothesay  is  a  favorite  summer  resort.  The 
!  climate  is  A^ery  mild  and  genial.  Consumptive  invalids 
I  have  found  a  decided  benefit  at  Rothesay.  Hydro- 
jpathic  establishments  near  the  town.  From  Rothesay 
'to  Dunoon  {Argyll;  Crown;  McColVs)  is  a  sail  of 
•10  M.    Dunoon  is  one  of  the  large  watering-places  on 


^0  STIRLING. 

the  Clyde,  ana  the  neigliborhood  is  picturesque.  From 
Dunoon  to  Greenock,  8  M.  by  steamer.  Passengers 
can  save  about  1  hr.  by  taking  train  from  Greenock  to 
Glasgow. 

Glasgow   to   Stirling,    Perth,    Dundee, 
Aberdeen,  and  Edinburgh. 

We  now  recommend  the  trt^veller  to  gojby  rail  (30  M.; 
fares,  5s  lOd.,  2s.  5d.)  from  Glasgow  dii-ect  to 

Stirling  {Golden  Lion;  Royal;  Lennox),  one 
of  the  most  interesting  towns  in  Scotland.  It  is  on 
the  river  Forth ;  and  its  Castle  stands  on  the  top  of  a 
huge  rock  overlooking  the  broad  Carse  of  Stirling. 
Here  Alexander  I.  died  in  1124,  and  in  1304  the  stout 
"^ortress  sustained  a  three-months'  siege  by  Edward  L 
■All  the  besieging  implemenls  in  the  Tower  of  London 
■were  brought  up ;  and  it  was  due  to  one  of  these  ter- 
rible engines,  called  "The  Wolf,"  that  the  castle  sur- 
rrendered.  This  was  the  key  of  the  main  passage 
Ijetween  the  N.  and  S.  of  Scotland.  Edward  II. 
fought  the  fatal  battle  of  Bannockburn,  in  his  endeavor 
to  raise  the  siege  laid  to  the  proud  castle.  Edward 
Balliol  captured  it  after  the  death  of  Bruce ;  and  King 
David  recovered  it  only  after  a  violent  siege.  It  was 
a  royal  residence  under  the  Stuarts.  James  II.  and 
James  V.  were  born  here ;  James  III.  built  the  Par- 
liament House ;  James  IV.  made  it  his  favorite  resi- 
dence. James  V.  built  the  Palace,  which  occupies  the 
S.  W.  portion.  The  sculptures  are  very  rich  and  gro- 
tesque. A  few  of  the  original  "  Stirling  heads "  — 
WDoden  effigies  of  the  Scotch  kings  —  maybe  seen  in 
the  old  Court-room  in  Broad-St.  Stirling  Castle  was 
taken  by  Gen.  Monk  iu  1051,  and  beat  off  Prince 
Charles  in  1745,     In  the  Douglas  Room  the  powerfiij 


SCOTLAND.  81 

Earl  of  Douglas  was  stabbed  by  Iiis  sovereign. 
js^  Stirling  Castle  is  now  an  infantry  barrack.  The 
view  from  the  battlements  is  imposing.  The  Vale  of 
Menteith,  Ben  Lomond,  Ben  Venue,  Ben  A'an,  Ben 
Ledi,  are  all  distinctly  seen.  N.-E.  are  the  Ochil 
Hills;  S.,  the  Campsie  Hills;  and  on  the  N.,  the 
Abbey  Craig,  Cambuskenneth  Abbey,  the  Wallace 
Monument,  and  the  Bridge  of  Allan.  See  the  Bruce 
Monument ;  the  Bach  Walk  W.  of  the  Castle  Rock; 
the  Greyfriars  Ch.,  erected  in  1494  by  James  IV. 
(James  VI.  was  crowned  there  in  1567^  and  John 
Knox  preached  the  coronation  sermon);  Argyll's 
Lodging  and  Mar'' 8  Work,  the  most  interesting  of 
the  old  houses;  the  Town  House,  in  Broad-St.,  in 
front  of  which  Hamilton,  the  last  Catholic  Arch- 
il bishop  of  Scotland,  was  hanged  in  1571;  Gotvan's 
{Hospital;  the  Cemetery  (many  statues),  S.  of  the 
!|  Esplanade;  the  Old  Bridge,  near  which  was  fought 
■ij  the  battle  of  Stirling  (1297),  when  the  Scots  under 
.jiWallace  defeated  the  English,  A  carriage  to  the 
Castle  costs  2s.  6d. 

Excursions  from  Stirling. — To  Cambuskenneth 

Abbey  (1  M.),  founded  in  1147,  and  once  the  richest 

J  abbey    in    Scotland. — To    the    Wallace    Monument 

(by  tramway,  2d.),  a  tower  220  feet  high,  on  a  rock 

called  Abbey  Crmg  (580  feet). — To  Lake  of  Me?i- 

teith  and  beautiful  Aberfoil,  on  the  river  Forth. — To 

Bridge  of  Allan  (3  M.),  resorted  to  for  the  Airthrey 

chalybeate  water,     Dunblane  (Stirli?ig  A?'m.s),  near 

by,  is  celebrated  for  the  Cathedral  of  St,  Blane,  a 

m  good  specimen  of  Gothic  architecture.    It  was  rebuilt 

in  1240,   and  shattered  by  the  Reformers  in  1559. 

^Battlefield  of  Sheriffmuir  (1715)  close  by.     Beyond. 

Dunblane,  is  Downe  Castle. — To  Bannockburn,where- 

Robert  Bruce  and  30,000  Scots  defeated  Edward  II. 

and    100,000    Englishmen,   restoring    the    indepen- 


82  PERTH.  —  DUNKELD. 

denc€  of  Scotland.  —  To  the  noble  ruins  of  Linlithgow 
Palace,  —  a  favorite  seat  of  the  kini^'s  of  Scotland. 

Perth  {Station;  British;  Royal  George;  Queen's; 
>S'a/w/a^«'"o?j-)  may  be  visited  from  Stirling  (69  M.;  fares, 
5=;.  GiL,  4s.  2d.,  2s.  9d.)  A  supeibly  situated  city, 
•of  30,000  inliab.,  with  monuments  to  Scott  and  Prince 
Albert,  and  a  liandsome  new  Anglican  cathedral.  In 
the  quaint  Ch.  of  St.  John,  John  Knox  preached.  The 
North  Inch  and  South  Inch,  by  the  side  of  the  Tay,  are 
the  parks  of  the  city,  and  were  the  scene  of  the  battle 
described  in  The  Fair  Maid  of  Perth.  When  Agricola 
•established  Roman  camps  hereabouts,  Perth  was  al- 
ready a  town ;  aud  from  the  overthrow  of  the  Picts 
until  1437  (600  years)  it  was  the  capital  of  Scotland. 
In  1210  it  became  a  royal  burgh  ;  in  1310  Robert 
Bruce  stormed  its  walls ;  and  in  1437  James  I.  was 
murdered  here.  An  old  house  in  Curfew  Row  is  be- 
lieved to  be  that  described  by  Scott  as  the  home  of  the 
"  Pair  Maid."  Bcone  Palace,  on  the  site  of  the 
famous  old  Aljbey  of  Scone,  in  which  the  Scottish  kings 
were  crowned,  is  2^  M.  N. 

The  Highland  Rly.,  which  extends  144  M.  from 
Perth  to  Inverness,  and  161  M.  from  Inverness  to 
Wick,  passes  througli  some  of  the  loveliest  scenery  in 
Scotland.  Dunkeld  {Birnam;  Royal),  on  this  line, 
16  M.  from  Perth,  has  a  rare  old  cathedral,  and  is  close 
to  Birnam  Hill.  On  this  line  also  is  the  Pass  of  Killie- 
erankie,  a  remarkable  bit  of  glen  scenery.  The  field 
where  Dundee's  Highland  clans  crosiied  William  IIl.'s 
redcoats  in  1689,  is  near  by.  Pitlochrie  [Fishe/s 
Hotel)  and  Blair  Athole  {Athole  Arms ;  Bridge  of 
Tilf)  are  the  best  points  for  excursions. 

Prom  Perth  a  trip  can  be  made  (22  M.;  fares,  3s.  6d., 
3s.  6d.,  Is.  9d.)  to  Dundee  {Queen  s  Hotel ;  Royal ; 
Royal  British  Hotel),  the  third  town  in  Scotland  in 


SCOTLAND.  83 

population  (150,000),  and  the  principal  seat  of  the  Brit- 
ish linen  and  jute  trades.  It  is  on  the  N.  bank  of  the 
Tay,  12  M.  from  its  mouth,  and  has  a  fine  range  of 
docks,  covering  40  acres.  See  the  Customs  Offices, 
and  the  Ro/jal  Arch  ;  also  the  Esplanade,  running  from 
'he  Craig  Pier  to  Magdalen  Point,  wliere  the  Tai) 
Bridge  had  its  N.  terminus.  A  square  tower,  150  ft, 
high,  is  all  that  remains  of  old  St.  Mary's  Ch.,  founde{ 
by  David,  Earl  of  Huntingdon,  on  his  return  from  the 
Crusades.  Tlie  Roi/al  Exchange,  in  Albert-Square,  the 
Albert  Institute,  and  tlie  Free  Library  are  worth  visit- 
ing. Within  easy  reach  of  Dundee  or  Perth  is  Brechin, 
with  interesting  ruins  of  a  cathedral  and  castle,  and  an 
ancient  round  tower ;  Montrose^  a  quaint  little  seaport, 
once  a  royal  burgh  ;  Bunottar  Castle,  towards  Aber- 
deen, a  huge  ruin  on  a  rock  in  the  sea  ;  and  Arbroath, 
a  busy  port,  with  fine  ruins  of  an  abbey  founded  in 
1178.  15  M.  S.  (by  rly.)  is  St.  Andrews,  a  grave, 
neat,  and  picturesque  port,  with  the  oldest  university 
in  Scotland  (founded  1411),  and  tlie  Madras  College. 
It  is  "  a  perfect  Nineveh  of  ecclesiastical  ruins,"  having 
the  remains  of  a  noble  cathedral  and  priory,  the  myste- 
rious Tower  of  St.  Regulus,  part  of  the  castle-palace 
of  the  primates  of  Scotland,  a  beautiful  fragment  of  the 
Dominican  monastery,  and  two  fine  old  chs.  From 
Dundee  to  Forfar  (21  M.;  fares,  3s.  8d.,  2s.  9d.,  Is. 
9d.)  is  a  pleasant  journey.  In  the  Comity  Hall  of 
Forfar  is  preserved  the  Witch's  Bridle,  placed  as  a  gag 
on  the  mouths  of  the  miserable  victims  burned  for 
witchcraft.  Glamis  Castle,  5  M.  W.  of  Forfar,  is 
a  grand  old  baronial  edifice,  celebrated  by  Scott  and 
Shakespeare,  From  Forfar  those  who  have  the  time 
may  go  along  the  coast  (fares,  9s.  6d.,  7s.  2d.,  4s.  9d.) 
j  to  Aberdeen  {Imperial  Hotel ;  Palace  ;  Douglas's). 
Steamers   to  Leith   aiid   ^jondon ;   and  N.    to  Wick, 


g4  ABERDEEN.— BALMORAL  CASTLE. 

Thurso,  Kirkwall  (the  Orkneys),  and  Lerwick  (th^ 
Shetlands).    Aberdeen,  ''the  Granite  City,"  is  a  finely 
built  town  of  105,000  inh.  on  a  cluster  of  hills  on  the 
Dee,  at  its  mouth.     The  Dee  is  crossed  by  four  hand-; 
some  bridges.    Union- St.,  1  M.  long,  with  its  vista  of 
grayish  white  granite,  is  much  admired.    The  ancient 
E.  and  W.   Cks,  contain  some  curious  monuments^ 
and  the  tomb  of  Beattie  the  poet.     See  the  statue  of 
Prince  Albert ;  handsome  Gothic  Toivn  and  County 
Buildings;  the  Cross,  built  in  1686,  and  covered  with 
medallions  of  the  Scottish  monarchs ;  and  the  hand- 
some Ilarischal  College  (founded  1593).     The  docks 
cover  34  acres  and  admit  the  largest  ships.    Aberdeen 
clipper-ships  are  famous  the  world  over.     1  M.  N.  lies 
Old  Aberdeen,  the  site  of  the  ancient  King's  College 
(1494),  famous  for  exquisite  wood  carving,  in  chapel ; 
and  the  Cathedral  of  St.  Machar.  The  Auld  Brig  o' 
Balgownie,  celebrated  by  Byron  in  Don  Juan,  is  ^ 
M.  N.     The  Deeside  Kly.  runs  to  Ballater  (43^  M. ; 
fares,  6s.  lOd.,  3s.  7id.),  whence  coaches  to  Braemar 
(18  M. ;  fares,  5s.,  4s. ;  to  Balmoral,  2s.  6d.,  2s.);  and 
tourists  who  have  visited  Aberdeen  may  return  this 
way.     Between  Ballater  and  Braemar  stands  Balmo- 
ral Castle,  the  favorite  residence  of  the  late  Queen. 
It  is  in  the  Scottish  baronial  style,  and  consists  of 
two  blocks,  connected  by  wings.  '  The  property  wa& 
bought  by  Prince  Albert,  and  comprises  10,000  acres 
of  cleared  land,   with  30,000  acres  of  deer-forest, 
Braemar  {Invercauld  Arms;  Fife  Arms)  is  in  the 
midst  of  a  wildly  picturesque  country.     From  this 
point  one  may  push   on  to    Olen   Tilt  and  Blair 
Athole,  and  come  down  through  the  Killiecrankie 
Pass  to  Perth.     Travellers  who  do  not  wish  to  visit 
Aberdeen,  etc.,  can  go  from  Dundee  tc  Edinburgh 
by  Burntisland. 


SCOTLAND.  85^ 

Edinburgh,  Melrose,  Abbotsford. 

Many  persons  will  content  themselves,  after  the  trip 
through  the  Trossachs,  to  Oban  and  down,  with  a  trip 
from  Glasgow  to  Stirling  and  Edinburgh.  The  direct 
routes  between  the  two  principal  cities  of  Scotland  av& 
uninteresting.  Time,  1^-2;^  hrs. ;  fares,  by  express 
train,  6s.  6d.,  5s.  Distance,  48  M.  Stirling  to 
Edinburgh,  5s.  6d.,  3s.  lid.,  2s.  6d.). 

Rdlnhurgh  (Balmoral,  Royal,  Carlton,  Old  Waver- 
ley  (temperance).  Central,  Douglas,  Royal  British; 
ry.  hotels  at  the  Waverley  and  Caledonian  Stations; 
private  hotels.  Bedford  and  Grosvenor)  is  one  of' 
the  most  beautiful  towns  in  Europe  ;  and  history 
and  legend,  uniting  their  charms,  have  made  it 
especially  fascinating  to  the  traveller.  It  has 
345,000  inhab.  (suburbs  included).  It  is  situated 
in  the  N.  part  of  Midlothian,  nearly  2  M.  from  the 

Firch  of  Forth.  A  large,  open  valley  divides  it  iuta 
the  Old  and  New  Towns,  the  one  a  kind  of  epitome  of 
the  strange  history  of  Scotland  for  the  last  500  ^'"ears ; 
and  the  other  a  singularly  handsome  and  well-buiit 
modern  town.  There  is  a  striking  resemblance  be- 
tween Edinburgh  and  Athens ;  and  it  was  from  this 
fact  that  the  Scottish  capital  acquired  its  title  of  the 
"  Modern  Athens."  A  lire  destroyed  the  town  in 
1537;  and  the  oldest  date  on  any  private  house  is 
1657.  It  was  opposite  the  sloping  ridge  of  rock, 
called  Arthur  s  Seat  (because  King  Arthur  defeated  . 
the  Saxons  near  by),  that  King  Edwin,  who  gives  his 
name  to  the  city,  founded  his  "burgh"  in  the  7th 
century.  For  400  years  the  city  formed  part  of  the 
Northumbrian  kingdom.  Early  in  the  11th  century 
Lothian  with  its  castle  was  added  to  the  kingdom  o£' 
the  Scots.  The  city  was  long  the  favorite  capital  of" 
the  Stuarts. 


SQ  EDINBURGH. 

Princes-St.  is  a  terrace,  separated  from  the  Old 
Town  by  a  broad  valley  of  gardens.  In  the  E.  gar- 
dens stands  the  Scott  Monument  (built  1840-44), 
the  niches  of  which  are  filled  with  figures  of  the 
great  novelist's  heroes  and  heroines.  Beneath  the 
central  canopy  is  a  statue  of  Sir  Walter  Scott.  A 
staircase  leads  to  the  top  (200  ft.).  Near  by,  stand 
bronze  statues  of  Livingstone,  Adam  Black,  and 
Prof.  Wilson  (f  hs.  North).  The  gardens  are  divided 
into  two  sections  by  the  Mound,  on  which  stand  the 
beautiful  classic  buildings  of  the  Itoyal  Institution 
and  the  National  Gallery.  The  former  contains 
the  National  Museum  of  Antiquities  and  the  Statue 
Gallery  (free  Monday,  Tuesday,  Wednesday  and 
Saturday,  10-4;  6d.  Thursday  and  Friday).  In  the 
Museum,  note  John  Knox's  Pulpit  from  St.  Giles's 
Church ;  the  Solemn  League  and  Covenant  of  1638, 
signed  by  Montrose;  the  Blue  Ribbon,  worn  by 
Prince  Charles  as  Knight  of  the  Garter;  the  Tor- 
turing Maiden  ;  and  many  Celtic  and  Roman  anti- 
quities. The  School  of  Design  in  this  building  has 
many  pupils.  The  National  Gallery  (open  daily, 
10-4;  6d.  fee  on  Thurs.  and  Fri.)  is  S.^of  the  Royal 
Institution.  Here  are  good  paintings  by  Van  Dyck, 
Veronese,  Watteau,  Teniers,  Reynolds,  Hogarth, 
Landseer  and  Wilson.  The  annual  exhibitions  of 
the  Royal  Scottish  Academy  take  place  here  from 
February  to  May.  Flaxman's  statue  of  Burns  is 
here.  See  in  W.  Princes-St.  Gardens  statue  of 
Allan  Ramsay,  the  Scottish  pastoral  poet.  Nearly 
opposite  the  University  Club  is  a  statue  of  the 
famous  physician,  Sir  James  Simpson.  In  the  West 
churchyard  is  the  grave  of  Thomas  de  Quincey. 
Near  the  Caledonian  Station  is  Castle  Terrace, 
on  which  stands  the  Synod  Hall  of  the  U.  P.  Church. 
Crossing  the  railway  from  the  West  Garden  you 
reach  the  base  of  the  Castle  Boclc,  and  may  ascend 


SCOTLAND.  87 

by  the  Wellhouse  Toicer  (a  part  of  tlie  first  town  wall, 
erected  in  145U)  to  the  uppermost  walk. 

The  Castle  stands  on  a  precipitous  rock  about  800 
ft,  above  tiie  valle}^  accessible  only  from  the  E.  side. 
This  was  an  impreguable  stronghold  before  the  days  of 
gunpowder.  To-day  it  is  an  infantry  barrack  for  1,200 
men,  and  has  an  armory  containing  80,000  stand  of 
arms.  The  so-called  Half-Moon  Battery  faces  to  the 
N.  E.  The  main  approaches  to  the  castle  are  by 
High-St.  and  Castle  Hill.  See  the  Stone  Cross  erected 
to  Scottish  soldiers  who  fell  in  the  Indian  mutiny. 
You  enter  the  castle  by  crossing  a  drawbridge  over  a 
moat.  See  the  State  Prison,  where  many  adherents  of 
tb?  Stuarts  were  confined.  On  the  r.  is  the  Argyll 
Buttery  ;  a  little  beyond,  the  Armory,  the  Prison,  the 
Old  Palace  Yard,  and  the  Crown  Room  (open  daily, 
11-8).  Here  are  the  Regalia,  sometimes  called  the 
Honors  of  Scotland.  They  consist  of  a  crown  (Robert 
Bruce's,  with  which  Charles  II.  was  crowned),  sceptre, 
sword  of  state  (given  by  Pope  Julius  II.  to  James  IV.), 
treasurers  rod  of  office,  etc.  Queen  Mary's  Room  is  a 
small  apartment  in  which  Queen  Mary  gave  birth  to 
James  VI.  On  the  wall  is  a  black-letter  inscription, 
with  the  Scottish  arms.  On  the  Bomb  Battery  stands 
Mons  Meg,  an  enormous  gun  made  at  Mons,  in  Bel- 
gium, in  1476,  of  thick  iron  bars  hooped  together. 
Erom  this  battery  see  the  whole  of  Edinburgh  and  en- 
virons. Here  is  Queen  Margaret's  Chapel,  the  oldest 
and  highest  part  of  the  castle,  built  about  1050,  and 
named  for  Malcolm  Canmore's  Saxon  queen.  The 
castle  has  been  captured  by  Henry  II.,  Edward  L, 
Bruce,  Sir  Wm.  Douglas,  and  Cromwell ;  and  repulsed 
Priuce  Charles's  army. 

High-St.  was  once  one  of  the  finest  in  Europe ;  but 
its  cjuaint  old  houses  now  compare  but  poorly  with 


88  EDINBURGHe 

t^iose  m  the  New  Town.  Note :  Cannon-ball  (fired 
from  tlie  castle  in  1746j  sticking  in  the  gable  of  the 
old  mansion  of  the  Duke  of  Gordon;  Ramsay  Lane,  oh 
the  1.,  where  lived  Kamsay  the  poet;  the  General  As- 
semblij  Hall  of  the  Church  of  Scotland.  It  was  along 
tlie  W.  Bow  th'at  Montrose  and  Argyll  were  conveyed 
in  the  executioner's  cart  to  tlie  Grassmarket,  the  place 
of  public  execution.  On  the  1.,  James's  Court,  where 
David  Hume  wrote  part  of  his  History  of  England, 
and  where  Boswell  entertained  Johnson  in  1773,  and 
Paoli.  Burns  lived  in  Baxter's  Close,  and  Cromwell 
in  Byre's  Close.  In  Bank-St.,  the  splendid  Bank  of 
Scotland;  on  the  r.  the  County  Hall,  near  the  open 
space  wdiere  stood  the  old  Tolbooth,  called  The  Heart 
of  Midlothian.  The  Tolbooth  was  the  House  of 
Parliament,  the  principal  Court  of  Justice,  and  the 
prison.  Midway  in  High-St.  is  St.  Giles's  Ch.,  whose 
tower  is  terminated  by  a  huge  imperial  crown,  visible 
from  afar.  The  original  ch.  was  built  before  1350, 
and  was  the  cathedral  of  Edinburgli.  Knox  minis- 
tered here,  and  here  the  Solemn  League  and  Covenant 
was  signed.  The  Reformers  cast  out  40  images  of 
saints,  and  divided  the  building  by  partition;;,  so  that 
three  congregations  might  worship  therein.  James 
VI.,  when  about  to  ascend  the  English  throne,  here 
took  leave  of  the  citizens.  In  the  Cryj^t  are  the  tombs 
of  Montrose  and  the  Bcgent  Murray.  S.  of  St.  Giles 
is  Parliament  Square.  See,  in  the  pavement  here,  a 
stone  inscribed  "I.  K.  1572,"  which  marks  the  grave 
of  John  Knox.  Also,  an  equestrian  statue  of  Charles 
II.  On  the  S.,  Parliament  House,  a  modern  Italian 
structure,  now  used  as  courts  of  justice.  Parliament 
Hall,  122  ft.  long  and  49  wide,  is  very  handsome.  See 
statues  and  portraits  of  the  Scottish  jurists.  Near  by 
are   the  Advocates''  Library  and  the   Signet  Library, 


SCOTLAND.  89 

The  first  contains  300,000  vols.,  and  a  vast  collection 
of  MSS.  See  here  llie  Mayence  first  edition  of  the 
Bible.  On  the  N.  E.  side  of  St.  Giles's  Ch.  see  the 
Cily  Cross.  Opj)Obite  is  the  Roi/al  Exchange.  Where 
High-St.  is  inlersccted  by  the  N.  and  S.  Bridges  stands 
the  Tron  Church,  named  from  a  public  tron,  or 
weighing-machine.  When  the  shopkeepers  weiglied 
falsely  they  were  nailed  up  by  the  ears.  Farther 
down  is  John  Knox  s  House  (open  Wed.  and  Sat., 
10-4;  6d.).  The  interior  is  a  labyrinth  of  small  and 
low-ceiled  rooms.  On  the  outside  is  the  inscription  \ 
^^  Lofe  .  God  .  uboue  .  al  .  and  .  j/oor  .  nichtbovr  .  as  . 
yi  .  self''  Here  Knox  lived,  —  1559-73,  — •  and  here 
he  died.  From  Knox's  house  to  Holy  rood,  High-St., 
is  called  Canongate.  On  the  1.,  Canongate  Tolbooth, 
built  in  1591.  Back  from  the  street,  the  Ch.  of  the 
Canons,  built  in  1688.  In  the  Cemetery  are  buried 
Adam  Smith,  Dugald  Stewart,  and  other  celebrated 
Scots.  On  the  1.,  Qiieensberry  Rouse,  an  ancient  ducal 
palace,  where  the  poet  Gay  once  dwelt ;  now  used  as  a 
house  of  refuge. 

Holyrood  Palace  and  Abbey  was  founded  by 
King  David  I.,  who  is  said  to  have  been  saved  from 
the  horns  of  a  stag,  driven  to  bay  near  this  spot,  by  a^ 
luminous  cross  in  the  sky.  The  Holy  Rood,  which 
David  hitended  to  deposit  there,  was  a  fragment  of  the 
True  Cross.  The  palace  (fee,  6d. ;  free  on  Sat.)  was 
begun  by  Charles  IV.,  and  burned  by  the  English  in 
ISl-i,  and  again  by  Cromwell's  soldiers  in  1650.  The 
m.o^t  interesting  section  is  Queen  Marfs  ApurtmentSy 
eiibered  by  a  door  on  the  N.  side  of  the  inner  court. 
The  rooms  on  the  first  floor  were  occupied  by  Darnley. 
In  the  little  boudoir  Rizzio  was  assassinated  while  at 
supper  with  Mary,  March  9,  1566,  by  Darnley,  Ruth- 
yen,  and  others.     The  guides  show  some  dark  stains 


90  EDINBURGH. 

ou  the  floor,  said  to  be  Rizzio's  blood.  The  present 
palace  was  rebuilt  in  the  reign  of  Charles  II.  The 
picture-gallery  is  hung  with  111  hypothetical  portraits 
of  Scottish  kings.  The  Cliapel  Royal  is  a  beautiful 
but  ruinous  fragment  of  the  old  Abbey,  founded  bf 
David.  Charles  I.  was  crowned  here  in  1C38.  In  the 
vaults  are  buried  David  IL,  James  II.,  James  Y.  and 
his  Queen,  and  Lord  Darnley.  Just  S.  of  Holy  rood  is 
the  (Queens  Park.  Arthur's  Seat,  822  ft.  high,  is 
behind  Holyrood.  A  good  road,  the  Queen  s  Drive, 
runs  round  it.  The  ascent  may  be  made  from  Holy- 
rood  by  crossing  the  Park,  or  by  following  the  drive 
to  Dunsappie  Loch,  and  then  up  from  thai  point.  Ou 
the  hill  ar-*  the  ruins  of  St.  Anthonfs  Chapel.  See, 
near  the  park-keeper's  lodge  at  St.  Leonard's  Hill,  the 
cottage  of  "  Jeannie  Deans." 

The  historic  Cowgate,  built  in  1500,  is  now  one  of 
the  dirtiest  lanes  in  the  Old  Tow^n.  It  ends  in  the 
Grassmarket,  near  the  centre  of  which  is  the  Corn 
'Exchange.  At  the  head  of  the  Cowgate  stands  the 
house  in  which  Lord  Brougham  was  born ;  and  in  the 
ch.-yard  of  Greyfriars  are  the  tombs  of  the  historian 
Robertson,  Allan  Ramsay,  and  other  famous  men. 
Heriofs  Hospital,  a  magnificent  turreted  quadrangle 
(built  by  Inigo  Jones,  1628-50),  is  worth  a  visit.  The 
University  (session  Nov -April),  at  the  S.  end  of  S. 
Bridge,  was  founded  in  1582  by  -James  VI.  It  has 
one  of  the  best  medical  schools  in  Europe.  There 
are  about  2,000  students.  Library,  150,000  vols.  In 
Drummond-St.,  opposite  the  College,  stood  Darnley's 
house,  where  he  was  blown  up  in  1567.  Near  the 
head  of  College  Wynd  stood  the  house  in  which  Walter 
Scott  was  born.  It  was  pulled  down  in  1871.  Be- 
hind the  University  is  the  Edinburgh  Museum  of  Science 
and  Art.     At  the  N,  end  of  George  IV.  Brid.ye  is  the 


SCOTLAND.  91 

t'ree  Public  Library  erected  mainly  through  the  lib- 
erality of  Mr.  Andrew  Carnegie. 

Crossing  the  Mound  into  the  Neio  Toicn,  one  finds 
the  streets  as  wide  and  handsome  as  in  the  Old  they 
are  narrow  and  ugly.  Go  up  Calton  Hill,  at  tlie  E. 
end  of  Princes-St.,  and  visit  Nelson'' s  Monument  {iae, 
3d.);  good  view  from  the  top.  On  this  hill  is  the 
National  Monument  to  the  Scottisli  soldiers  who  fell- 
in  the  Peninsular  and  Waterloo  campaigns, — an  im- 
finished  building,  copied  after  the  Parthenon  at  Ath- 
ens ;  also,  the  Observatory^ ;  and  the  Dugald- Stewart 
Monument,  copied  from  the  Choragic  Monument  of 
Lysic.rates  at  Athens.  Just  beyond  is  Playf  air's  monu- 
ment. At  the  base  of  the  hill  i'^  the  Royal  High  School^ 
an  adaptation  of  the  Temple  of  Theseus  at  Athens.  To 
the  S.  is  Burns' s  Monument,  erected  in  1830.  At  the 
corner  of  the  IST.  Bridge,  the  Post-Offics.  In  the  Begis^ 
iry  Office,  on  the  r.  at  the  end  of  Princes-St.,  are  auto- 
graph letters  of  Queen  Mary,  etc.  See  Wawrley Bridge. 

Other  Objects  of  Interest. — The  Royal  Bank;  the 
liQwWaverley  R.  Sta.;  the  bronze  statues  of  Pitt  and, 
George  IV,,  by  Chantrey  ;  St  Andrew's  Ch„;  statue 
to  Chalmers,  the  Scottish  divine;  the  Scottish  National- 
Memorial,  erected  in  1878,  bas-reliefs  illustrative  of 
the  Prince  Consort's  career  ;  the  Edinburgh  Philo- 
sophical Institution  in  Queen-St. ;  the  ^t?iie\y Ejiisco^jal 
Cathedral  of  St.  J/rt?'?/,  built  by  Sir  Gilbert  Scott  ;  the 
Dean  Bridge, spRnmng  the  Water  of  Leith,106  ft.  high; 
the  Bean  Cemetery,  vvhere  Lords  Jeffrey,  Cockburn^ 
Rutherford  and  Murray,  and  Prof.  Wilson  are  buried; 
the  Fettes  College  ;  t  e  S.  Cemetery,  at  the  Grange, 
where  Hugh  Miller  Dr.  Chalmers,  and  Dr.  Guthrie 
are  buried  ;  the  Royal  Bank  Garden;  the  Vfarriston 
Cemetery,  where  Alexander  Smith  the  poet  is  buried. 

Leith  (60,000),  the  port  of  Edinburgh,  is  3  M. 
N.,  reached  by  horse-cars  and  steam-cars  ;  trains' 
every  1-2  hr.     There  are  2  piers  stretching  3,000  ft» 


93  LjJilTH.-ROSLIN  CHAPEL. 

into  the  Firth  of  Forth.  Walk  down  one,  take  ferry 
^^eross  to  the  other,  and  come  back  on  it.  Mary 
'Queen  of  Scots  had  a  brilliant  reception  on  landing 
here  from  Calais  in  1561.  Huge  shipbuilding  yards, 
glass-works,  and  flour-mills  here.  Large  trade  in 
^€orn  and  timber  with  Baltic  ports.  The  Albert  Dock 
-covers  14  acres.  Leith  Fort  was  built  by  Cromwell. 
W.  of  Leith  is  Newhaven  {Peacock  Inn,  cele- 
brated for  fish  dinners,  2s.  6d.).  Fishwives  re- 
markable here  for  their  co.>5tumes,  and  noted  for 
■their  virtue. 

Excursions  from  Edinburgh. — To  Granton  Pier, 
2  M.,  stopping  to  visit  the  Royal  Botanic  Gardens 
■(admission  free).  Good  view  of  Edinburgh.  Magni- 
ficent pier,  built  by  the  Diike  of  Buccleuch.  At 
'{jranton  the  English  troops  that  invaded  Scotland  in 
1544  were  landed.  From  the  pier,  steam  ferry  to 
Burntisland  in  Fife. — To  Trinity,  good  bathing. — 
'To  Hawthornden  and  Roslin  Chap'el.  Train  to 
Hawthornden  stat. ;  fares,  Is.,  lOd.,  8d.  This  charm- 
ing mansion,  "grafted  on  an  old  fortified  Peel 
lower,"  was  built  by  the  poet  Drummond,  born  in 
1585;  and  here  Ben  Johnson  came  to  visit  him,  walk- 
ing all  the  way  from  London.  Under  the  mansion 
are  caves,  inhabited  by  natives  before  huts  were 
known.  Cross  the  Esk  and  go  along  the  romantic 
glen  to  Roslin  (1^  M.),  getting  a  fine  view  of  the  castle 
land  chapel  as  you  leave  the  ravine.  Battle  fought  in 
1302  on  the  Iloor  near  by.  Roslin  Chapel  is  the  choir 
of  an  unfinished  ch.5  founded  in  1446.  Pergusson 
thinks  "the  chapel  owes  its  beauty  entirely  to  the 
profusion  of  its  decorations."  The  castle,  on  a  mound 
.below,  is  a  mere  ruin.  The  Valley  of  the  Esk  is 
lovely.  If  you  go  back  to  Edinburgh  by  road,  you  can 
pass  by  3Io?^7iingside,  and  see  the  stone  on  which  James 
I.  fixed  his  standard  be^^^-e  he  set  out  for  Flodden 
Field. — Dalkeith  Castle,  ^■"^-wbattle  Abbey,  Dalhonsie 


SCOTLAND.  93 

Castle,  Borthwick  Castle,  Cric.hton  Castle,  all  on  or  near 
the  Esk,  are  well  worth  visiting. 

All  Americans  should  visit  Melrose,  Abbotsford, 
and  Dryburgh.  Take  express  tram  (Pulliuau  car 
attaclied)  to  Melrose  stat.  (37  M. ;  1  hr. ;  fares,  7s. 
5d.,  5s.  7d.,  3s.  Id.).  Hotels  at  Melrose:  George; 
Abbejj  ;  King's  Arms.  Melrose  Abbey  was  founded 
by  David  I.  in  1126,  and  completed  in  1146.  The 
monks  who  dwelt  there  were  among  the  first  Cister- 
cians in  Scotland.  The  Abbey  was  destroyed  by  Ed- 
ward II.  in  1322,  but  rebuilt  later  uuder  the  patronage 
of  King  Robert  Bruce.  The  architecture  is  Second 
Pointed,  mingled  with  Flamboyant.  The  present  strnc- 
ture  dates  from  about  1375.  The  Duke  of  Buccleuch 
now  owns  the  Abbey.  Entire  length  of  edifice,  258 
ft. ;  breadth  of  transepts,  137  ft.  The  Choir,  the  Tran- 
septs, the  Naoe,  entered  by  a  wooden  gate  at  the  W, 
end,  and  the  S.  Aisle,  are  in  best  preservation.  The 
Abbey  forms  a  Latin  cross,  with  a  square  tower,  84 
ft.  high,  in  the  centre.  Beside  the  high  altar,  under 
tlie  noted  E.  Wiiidow,  lies  Alexander  II. ;  and  here  the 
heart  of  Robert  Bruce  is  deposited.  The  tomb  of  the 
wizard,  Michael  Scott,  is  in  the  Aisle  of  St.  Mary. 
Note  the  delicate  chiselling  of  the  outer  side  of  the 
doorway  leading  into  the  cloisters.  Over  the  S.  door 
(outside)  is  a  beautiful  sculptured  canopy,  and  above  it 
a  noble  window.  Above  the  E.  window  are  figures, 
supposed  to  be  David  I.  and  his  queen.  Under  the 
fifth  window  is  Sir  David  Brewster's  tomb.  Moonlight 
etfects  quite  equal  to  Sir  Walter's  enthusiastic  descrip- 
tion. Some  prefer  to  go  directly  from  Melrose  to 
Abbotsford,  and  to  see  the  Abbey  on  the  return.  A 
one-horse  carriage  to  and  from  Abbotsford  (8  M.)  costs 
6s.  6d. ;  double  team,  8s.  6d.  The  walk  is  a  pleasant 
i  one.     Persons  in  haste  can  leave  Edinbur<?h  at  10.3^ 


94        ABPOTSFORu.  —  DRYBURGH  ABBEY. 

A-.M. ;  reach  Melrose  in  1  lir. ;  drive  over  to  Abbots* , 
ford,  see  it,  and  return,  in  2  lirs. ;  give  |  lir.  to  Mel- 
rose Abbey ;  lunch  at  one  of  the  hotels  near  by;  then 
take  carriage  to  Dryburgli  Abbey,  see  it,  and  return  to 
Melrose  by  way  of  Bemerside  Hill,  in  2|  Iirs.;  after 
which  they  can  take  an  evening  train  S.  Abbotsford 
(admission,  Is.)  was  long  the  home  of  the  "  Great 
Enchanter  of  the  North."  The  author's  study  is  the 
most  interesting  room.  There  the  old  writing-table, 
the  plain  leathern  arm-chair,  the  reference  books,  seem 
to  indicate  that  Sir  Walter  has  but  just  left  them. 
The  Library  (20,000  vols.)  contains  a  bust  of  Scott, 
by  Chantrey,  and  many  miniatures.  The  roof  is  of 
carved  oak,  designed  from  models  taken  from  Roslin 
Chapel.  Tlie  Drawing-room,  where  Sir  Wah,er  died, 
and  the  little  octagonal  dressing-room  contain  many 
precious  relics.  The  Armory  has  a  fine  collection  of 
Scotch  weapons.  Not  far  away  is  the  Chiefswood 
Cottage,  where  the  Lockharts  dwelt.  "Thomas  the 
Rhymer"  once  lived  in  the  neighborhood. 

In  Dryburgh  Abbey  (reached  as  above,  or  by  rail 
from  Meh-ose  to  Newtown  St.  Boswell's,  and  then  l^ 
M.  across  country)  Scott  was  buried  (in  1832).  His 
tomb  is  in  the  beautiful  St.  Marys  Aisle,  and  on  either 
side  are  the  tombs  of  liis  wife  and  eldest  son.  Lock- 
hart  also  lies  there.  The  Abbey  (admission  Is)  was 
founded  in  1150  bv  Hugh  de  Moreville,  and  destro^^ed, 
like  Melrose,  by  Edward  I.  The  Chapter-House  is  still 
entire.  On  a  hill  near  by  is  an  effigy  of  Wallace,  in 
red  sandstone. 

You  can  now  proceed  S.  Stop  at  Durham  and 
York  Edinburgh  to  London  (9  hrs),  57s.  6d.,  44s.  9d., 
32s.  8d.  ;  Melrose  to  Durham,  19s.  4d.,  i4s.  lOd.,  8s. 
Hid.;  Melrose  to  YorL  27s.  2d.,  20s.  8d.,  Hs.  2|d. ; 
Edinburgh  to  York,  31s.,  24s.    Pullman  sleeping-car,  8s, 


ENGLAND.  95 

ENGLAND. 
Newcastle,  Durham,  and  York. 

JTEWCASTLE-UPON-TYITE  {Station  Hotel; 
■*"^  County)  is  a  place  of  great  industrial  interest. 
It  was  Po7is  Aelii,  the  second  stat.  on  the  Roman  wall. 
Up  to  the  Conquest  it  was  called  Monhcliester.  New- 
castle is  on  3  hills,  on  the  Tyne,  9t}  M.  from  its  mouth. 
The  Castle-keep  remains,  with  splendid  great  hall,  ora- 
tory, king's  chamber,  and  museum  of  Roman  antiqui- 
ties. See/S/f.  Nicholas's  Cathedral  {lAth  cent.),  with 
fine  spire  and  rare  old  monuinents ;  St.  Andreiv^s,  very 
ancient ;  the  Library ;  the  Royal  Arcade;  and  Stephen- 
son's High  Level  Bridge.  Elsivick,  2  M.  out,  is  the 
seat  of  Sir  Wm.  Armstrong's  iinmense  ordnance  works. 
Tynemouth  has  a  beautiful  ruined  Priory.  Newcastle 
is  enterprising,  but  grimy ;  ' '  the  dimmest  and  smoki- 
est place  I  ever  saw,"  says  Hawthorne.  Much  iron 
ship-building  on  the  river.  Population  with  suburbs, 
176,000.     Made  in  1883  an  Episcopal  See. 

Durham  {County  Hotel;  Three  Tuns),  15  M.  from 
Newcastle,  stands  on  a  hill  almost  surrounded  by  the 
river  Wear,  and  is  noteworthy  for  its  Cathedral  and 
Castle.  The  latter  was  built  by  William  the  Conqueror, 
and  is  the  seat  of  an  University.  The  Cathedral 
crowns  the  eminence  on  which  Durham  is  built.  It 
was  founded  in  1093,  replacing  an  older  ch. 

"We  paused  upon  the  'brid.ge,and  admired  and  wondered 
at  the  beauty  and  glory  of  the  scene,  with  those  vast  ancient 
towers  rising  out  of  the  green  shade,  and  looking  as  if  they 
were  base'i  npon  it.  As  I  saw  it  then,  it  was  grand,  vener- 
able, and  sweet,  all  at  once;  and  I  never  saw  so  lovely  and 


06  DURHAM. 

magnificent  a  scene,  nor,  being  content  witli  this,  dc  1  wish 
to  see  a  better."  —  Hawthorne. 

King's  Bnglisli  Cathedrals  speaks  of  the  "view  of 
the  castle  walls,  and  the  towers  of  the  enormous  ct. 
rising  close  beside  it,  and  sheer  with  the  face  of  the 
cliff;"  and,  indeed,  there  are  few  bits  of  English  scen- 
ery lovelier  than  those  in  old  Durham  on  the  Wear 
("This  river  Wear,  with  its  sylvan  wildness,  and  yet  so 
sweet  and  placable,  is  the  best  of  all  little  rivers,"  says 
Hawthorne) ;  or  few  chs.  more  majestic  in  the  midst  of 
a  charming  landscape.  It  contains  the  remains  of  the 
Venerable  Bede  (see  some  of  his  MSS.  in  the  Cathedral 
library);  those  of  St.  Cuthbert,  unearthed  in  1827; 
tind  of  Ralph,  Lord  Nev'ile,  who  commanded  at  Ne- 
ville's Cross.  See  The  Q%lilee,  a  splendid  chapel;  the 
'E.  Transept,  or  Chapel  of  ihe  Nine  Altars ;  the  magnifi- 
cent  Norman  Nave,  with  .ts  unrivalled  vista ;  the  Chap- 
ter-House,  built  1133-4';;  the  Te-Beum  Window;  the 
Altar  Screen,  dating  f/^m  1380;  the  Cloisters;  the 
Abbey  Gateway ;  eV .  Choral  services  twice  daily. 
Good'  views  of  th^  O/ihedral  from  the  Pramwellgate 
Bridge  and  the  rV.  ^cat.  King  thinks  that  the  cathe- 
drals at  Lincoln  iri  Ely  alone  can  be  compared  with 
this  for  ma'^esty  and  beauty.  Erom  St.  Giles's  Ch.- 
yard,  from  the  Prior  s  .Path,  and  from  Nine  Trees,  are 
excellent  views.  The  Castle  (fee.  Is.)  was  long  the 
residence  of  the  Bishcps  of  the  Palatinate.  See  the 
Keep,  now  occupied  by  students;  the  beautifal  Nor- 
man  Gallery  ;  the  Black  Staircase;  the  Great  Rail,  with 
its  many  pictures  ;  the  tapestry  in  Bishop  TunstalVs 
Gallery]  and  the  very  curious  old  Chapel.  Pleasant 
walks  abound.  Excursions  to  Finchale  Priory  (3| 
M.),  dating  from  1496,  and  in  a  lovely  vale  beyond  the 
Kepyer  Woods ;  to  Maiden  Castle,  a  fortress  ascribed 
to  the  Roman?.,  and  tiie  Moated  Granqe  ;  to  Neville's 


ENGLAND.  97 

Gross,  commemorating  the  capture  of  David  IT.  by 
Keville  in  1346;  to  Chester-le-Street,  6  M.,  with  a 
noble  ch.  built  1286,  near  which  is  Liimley  Castle 
(Lord  Scarborough),  with  its  famous  Great  Hall  and 
Bail-Room  (time  of  Edward  L),  and  Lamhton  Castle 
(Earl  of  Durham).  Erom  Durham  you  may  proceed 
directly  to  York  (63  M.;  fares,  8s.  lOd.,  7s.  5d.,  5s. 
6d.).  But  we  recommend  you  to  go  (fares,  7s.  3d., 
6s.,  4s.  5d.)  to 

Ripon  (JJnicorn  Hotel;  Crowji),  a  pretty  city  on 
the  river  Ure.  It  hcas  been  an  ecclesiastical  site  for  12 
centuries.  The  Cathedral  was  begun  in  11^4,  roughly 
used  by  the  Scots  in  the  Border  wars,  fell  into  ruin, 
and  was  rebuilt  in  the  17t]i  century.  It  was  restored 
by  Sir  G.  Scott  in  1862-73.  The  most  striking  point 
of  view  is  the  W.  Front.  The  nave  has  a  lofty  clere- 
story, and  an  oak  roof  with  carved  bosses,  and  some 
interesting  old  stained  glass.  The  library  is  in  the  old 
Lfidy  Chapel,  above  the  chapter-house  and  vestry.  The 
Choir  Screen  is  a  splendid  pile  of  tabernacle-work.  In 
the  N.  Choir  Hall  was  formerly  placed  the  Shrine  of 
St.  Wilfrid.  Bipon  retains  many  odd  memorials  of 
the  past.  In  ITigh-St.  is  St.  Anne's  Hospital,  founded 
in  Edward  lY.'s  reign.  In  Stamergate,  chapel  of 
Boman  date.  See  the  Hospital  of  St.  Mary  Magdale?se 
for  Lej^j's,  founded  1140.  Fountains  Abbey,  3  M. 
W.,  within  the  grounds  o[  Studlej/  Royal  (Marquess  of 
Bipon),  was  established  in  1133,  The  ruins  cover 
more  than  2  acres ;  and  when  the  abbey  was  complete 
it  occupied  12  acres.  Note  almost  perfect  ch.  on  1. 
Erom  the  N.  transept  rises  a  tower.  There  is  also  a 
great  cloister,  and  a  beautiful  vaulted  gallery,  300  ft. 
long.  The  Chapter-House  has  singular  aisles,  with 
double  row  of  columns.  Here  are  many  tombs  of 
the  abbots.     See,   also,  the  Refectory.,  the   Vaulted 


98  HARROGATE.-YORK. 

Kitchen,  the  Frater  House.  Returning  to  Ripon, 
take  train  to  York  (23  M.).  On  the  way  is  Harro- 
gate {Prospect  Hotel;  Croimi;  Prince  of  Wales),  one 
of  the  most  charming  of  English  watering-places. 

York  (Station  Hotel,  large  and  convenient;  Black 
Swan;  Harkers  York),  a  city  of  75,000  inh.,  191 
M.  from  London  (fares  27s.  6d.,  21s.  3d.,  15s.  8d.). 
York  is  said  to  have  been  founded  983  years  b.  c. 
In  150  A.  D.  it  was  a  great  Roman  station,  bearing 
the  name  Eboracum,  with  an  imperial  palace.  Here 
the  Emperor  Severus  died.  Here  also  Constantine 
the  Great  was  periiaps  born,  and  his  father  Cou- 
stantius,  died,  in  307.  In  the  Saxon  era  York  was 
noted  for  the  baptism  of  Edwin  of  Northumbria  by 
Paulinus ;  and  afterwards  became  the  favorite  capital 
of  the  Danes,  whose  chief  was  defeated  by  Harold  in 
1066. 

The  visitor  shoidd  first  see  the  City  "Walls,  2|  M. 
around,  interrupted  here  and  there  by  the  rivers. 
These  walls  were  built  chiefly  in  Edward  lll.'s  time, 
but  have  been  often  restored  since.  During  the  siege 
by  tiie  Parliamentary  forces  they  suffered  very  much. 
CJu  the  N.  and  S.  W.  they  follow  the  old  line  of  the 
Roman  wall.  See  Micklegate  Bar,  a  noble  archway  of 
Norman  date,  flanked  by  terraces  with  loopholes  and 
battlements,  and  with  figures  of  men-at-arms.  Here 
the  skulls  of  rebels  to  the  Crown  were  formerly  affixed. 
Close  by,  St.  Marys  Nunneri/.  At  Skeldergate,  cross 
the  Ouse  by  bridge.  Beyond  the  ferry,  the  Bail  Hill, 
on  which  William  I.  built  his  castle ;  Walmgate  and 
Monkgate  ;  an  interesting  Norman  Bar,  with  Decorated 
upper  story  ;  and  at  the  Thirsk  Road  one  may  descend 
close  to  the  Cathedral,  or 

York  Minster,  which  Hawthorne  called  "  the  most 
wonderful  ^vork   that   ever  came  from  the  hands  Q& 


ENGLAND.  99 

men."  A  wooden  edifice  was  built  here  by  Paulinus, 
and  replaced  by  a  stone  basilica,  begun  by  Edwin  (in 
627).  The  first  Norman  bishop  erected  a  new  church, 
which  was  added  to  within  the  next  four  centuries. 
In  1360-1400  the  old  Norman  choir  was  entirely 
replaced  by  the  present  one.  The  Minster  was  re- 
consecrated, July  3,  1472.  The  total  length  is  524-^ 
ft. ;  breadth  of  nave,  104  ft. ;  length  of  transepts, 
322  ft. ;  height  of  central  tower,  213  ft.  The  W. 
Front  consists  of  a  central  facade,  flanked  by  two 
towers  (201  ft.).  The  front,  with  its  3  N.  towers,  is 
Decorated.  The  buttresses  of  the  towers  are  very 
massive.  Between  them  and  the  portal  are  niches 
filled  with  figures  of  saints.  The  N.  Transept  is 
noticeable  for  its  beautiful  Five  Sisters  Window, 
below  which  is  an  Early  English  arcade.  The  octa- 
gonal cJiapter-liouse,  with  superb  14th-century  win- 
dows ("the  richest  I  ever  saw  or  imagined;  with  all 
their  brilliancy  they  were  soft  as  rose-leaves,"  said 
Hawthorne),  is  the  finest  in  England.  Imposing  view 
of  the  choir  and  central  tower.  Magnificent  E.  win- 
dow, and  row  of  sculptured  figures  underneath  the 
sill.  The  S.  Trarisept  is  fine  Early  English;  beauti- 
ful rose  window  here.  The  nave  aisles  are  of  unusual 
width.  Beautiful  view  from  the  aisle  to  the  end  of 
the  choir.  Aisles,  486  ft.  The  great  W.  Window, 
restored  in  1747,  arouses  the  enthusiasm  of  archajo- 
logists,  who  compare  it  for  beauty  and  variety  with 
the  E.  window  at  Carlisle.  The  quantity  and  ex- 
quisite beauty  of  the  stained  glass  will  remind  the  old 
traveller  of  some  of  the  Spanish  churches.  This  glass 
miraculously  escaped  damage  when  Fairfax  took  the 
town  in  1644.  The  Puritans  broke  up  most  of  the 
monuments  and  brasses.  Among  wall  monuments, 
note  those  of  Archbishop  Sterne,  the  Earl  of  Stafford 
(son  of  him  who  was  beheaded),  Archbishop  Scrope 
(mentioned  in  Shakespeare's  Henry  IV.),  and  Arch- 


iOO  YORK   MINSTER. 

bishop  Markham.  Visitors  should  see  the  nave  in  the 
evening,  v/heii  tlie  body  of  the  church  is  beautifully 
lighted.  The  Central  Tower  is  remarkable  for  its  mas- 
sive  piers. .  'Wx'd  Lantern  Tower,  finished  in  the  15th  ceu' 
tury,  has  a  vaulted  roof,  180  ft.  from  the  ground.  The 
iV.  Transept  has  an  exquisite  series  of  lancet  windows, 
filled  with  red  glass.  The  chapter-house  dates  from 
the  14th  century.  "  I  never  saw  a  piece  of  human 
architecture  so  beautiful,"  said  Hawthorne.  Doorway 
of  treioiled  arches  with  a  shaft,  having  a  niche,  in 
whicli  is  a  figure  of  the  Virgin  and  the  Child.  Notice 
the  old  oak  door,  covered  with  scrolled  iron-work.  The 
rich  stone  Roodscreen,  separating  the  choir  from  the 
nave,  is  in  15  compartments,  each  containing  a  statue 
of  a  king  of  England  down  to  Henry  VI.  The  choir  is 
of  vast  height  and  width,  and  Hawthorne  said  that  its 
pillars  and  arches  are  so  perfect  that  "their  beauty 
throws  a  gleam  around  them."  Its  heiglit  is  102  ft. ; 
width,  99  ft.  The  stained  glass  in  the  clerestory/  is 
partly  of  the  14th  century,  partly  later ;  as  in  the  choir 
and  in  the  presbytery.  The  great  E.  Win.dovj  is  the 
largest  in  England  that  retains  its  original  glazing. 
It  was  erected  in  1405-8,  and  forms  a  complete  epitome 
of  the  Bible.  The  Crypt  may  be  visited  from  either  the 
N.  or  the  S.  aisle.  See  first  the  Presfjtjtery  and  the 
Ladij  Chapel.  The  Vestry,  Record  Room,  Treasury, 
and  Library  (containing  many  MSS),  may  be  seen  if 
desired.  The  Horn  of  Ulphus,  laid  on  the  altar  by  one 
of  the  Lords  of  Yorkshire  as  a  sign  that  he  gave  certain 
lands  to  the  Chiirch,  is  in  the  vestry.  Hawthorne  says 
of  this  cathedral :  "It  seems  to  have  come  down  from 
above,  bringing  an  awful  majesty  and  sweetness  with 
it;  and  it  is  so  light  and  aspiring,  with  all  its  vast 
columns  and  pointed  arches,  that  one  would  hardly 
wonder  if  it  should  ascend  back  to  heaven  again  by 
its  mere  spirituality." 


ENGLAND.  ,  101 

Other  Ohjects  of  Interest. — Within  the  grounds  of 
the  Yorkshire  Philosophical  Society,  on  the  Ouse  (fee 
Is.),  is  St.  Clary's  Abbey.  After  the  dissolution,  part 
was  changed  into  a  royal  palace.  See  ruins  of  St. 
Leonardos  Hospital,  founded  by  Atlielstau,  and  rebuilt 
by  Stephen ;  and,  beyond  the  Hos])ital,  the  Midtangular 
Totoer,  Roman  below  and  mediaeval  above.  Here  are 
many  stone  coffins  from  the  Roman  cemetery.  Near 
this  is  8t.  Olaoe's  Ch.,  in  the  graveyard  of  which  Etty 
the  painter  lies  buried.  Near  the  river  is  the  Museum 
of  Antiquities,  with  very  interesting  collections.  The 
Museum  of  the  Philosop/ncat  Society  cowtixm^  a  valuable 
geological  exhibit.  — The  Castle,  now  a  prison,  is  a 
massive  edifice  in  which  occurred  many  events  in  the 
early  history  of  York,  It  was  here  that  the  massacre  of 
the  Jews  by  a  body  of  nobles  and  citizens,  indignant 
at  the  favorS  shown  to  the  Hebrews  by  Henry  II.,  took 
place  in  the  reign  of  Richard  I,  Over  the  gateway  is 
a  small  Early  English  chapel. — All  Saints'  Ch.,  in  North- 
St.,  is  of  great  age,  and  contains  Roman  masonry  and 
rich  strained  glass.  See  Hobj  Trinity//  Ch.,  Kings  Court, 
St.  Crux  Pavement,  where  the  Earl  of  Northumberland, 
beheaded  in  1572,  is  buried.  St.  Helen  Stonegate,  is 
dedicated  to  the  mother  of  Constantine,  See  also 
St.  Laiorence,  outside  Walmgate  Bar;  St.  Mary  the 
Younger,  Bishop  Hill;  and  St.  MichaeVs,  Spurrier 
Gate,  At  the  latter  the  ringing  of  the  curfew  bell  is 
still  kept  up.  The  principal  public  buildings  are  :  The 
Mansion  House ;  the  Guildhall,  with  nave  and  aisles 
separated  by  oak  pillaro,  and  rich  stained  windows ; 
Merchants'  Hall,  in  Fossgate ;  and  St.  William's  Col- 
lege, founded  in  1460  Hawthorne  admired  York's 
**old  chs.,  gnawed  like  a  bone  by  the  tooth  of  Time.*^ 
Excursions  from  York.  —  To  Scarborough  {Croun 


102  WHIT  BY.-HULL— LEEDS. 

Hotel;  Grand;  Alexandra;  Prince  of  Wales;  Royal; 
jPavilion):  time,  1^2  hours;  fare,  5s.  7d.,  4s.  8(1., 
■3s.  5-^d.  This  is  a  fashionable  seashore  resort.  On  a 
promontory  are  ruins  of  an  ancient  Norman  castle. 
The  Spa,  the  Promenade  (6d.),  the  Aquarium,  and 
■Oliver'' s  Mount  (superb  view),  are  reached  by  the  Cliff 
Bridge.  View  from  the  Castle  Rock  yery  fine.  Near 
the  castle  is  the  venerable  Gli.  of  St.  Mary.  (Fares 
from  London,  35s.,  26s.  lid.,  19s.  6d.)— To  Whitby 
{Royal  Hotel;  Croum;  Angel),  56iM. ;  fares,  7s.  6d., 
■6s.  3d.,  4s.  8d.  Whitby  is  a  summer  resort,  with 
superb  sea,-views.  Museum  and  library  on  the  W. 
pier.  Many  shops  for  the  sale  of  jet.  Charming 
drives  to  Rohin  Hood's  Bay,  Mulgrave  Castle,  and 
.along  the  Esk  dales.  Scott's  Mar7nion  has  made 
this  region  classic.  Ca]5t.  Cook's  circumnavigating 
ships  were  built  at  Whitby.  Here  are  the  venerable 
Tuins  of  Wliithy  Ahhey,  where  Hilda  ruled,  658-80, 
and  Caedmon  paraphrased  the  Bible  in  Saxon  verse. 
— To  Beverley  (Beverley  Arms),  dating  from  the 
•8th  century.  Beverley  Minster  merits  close  study, 
with  its  superb  Percy  Shrine,  rich  tabernacle-work. 
Lady  Chapel,  high  towered  fronts.  St.  Mary's  Ch. 
is  splendid  cruciform  building,  with  many  sculptures. 
8  M.  distant  (fares  from  York,  5s.  7d.,  4s.  8d.,  3s.  5^d.) 
is  Hull  {Royal  Hotel;  Victoria;  Imperial),  a  town  of 
354,000  inhab.,  ranking  as  a  seaport  next  to  Loi^don 
and  Liverpool.  See  the  Holy  Trinity  Cli.;  the  Town 
Hall;  the  Wilherforce  Column  (72  ft.);  St.  Malay's 
Ch.;  the  Trinity  House,  established  1369;  the  ancient 
High- St.;  the  Merchants'  Exchange;  and  the  Royal 
Institution. — To  Leeds  {Queen's  Hotel;  Metropole; 
Great  Northern  Station),  chief  town  in  Yorkshire, 
wath  420, 000  inh.  It  is  32  M.  from  York  (fares,  3s.  6d. , 
3s.  lid.,  2s.  l^d.)    Coal  and  iron  abound  on  all  sides. 


ENGLAND.  103 

Reclus  calls  Leeds  ' '  first  in  the  world  in  the  woollen 
business,"  The  public  buildings  are  magnificent.  The 
Toivn  Hall  has  a  tower  225  ft,  high,  and  4  rich  Cor- 
inthian facades.  The  Royal  Exchange,  Mixed-Cloth 
Hall,  White-Cloth  Hall  (built  in  1775),  and  t\\&_New 
Infirmary  are  all  on  a  generous  plan.  Near  Leeds  is 
Kirlxstall  Abbey,  beautiful  ruins  of  ch,,  cloisters,  and 
chapter-house ;  Temple  Neivsam,  rich  in  paintings ;  and 
Weetwood,  noted  for  idyllic  scenery.  From  Leeds  it 
is  8  M.  (time,  ihr, ;  fares,  Is.  2d,,  Is,,  9d,)  to  Brad- 
ford (Midlatid;  Alexandra),  world-famous  for  its 
woollens  and  worsted  yarns.  The  town  (280,000  inh,) 
is  prettily  situated  in  a  narrow  vale.  The  Town  Hall, 
of  mediaeval  design,  was  erected  in  1873,  and  has  a 
campanile,  and  a  set  of  chimes,  said  to  be  superior  to 
those  of  Bruges,  in  Belgium.  Saltaire,  the  model 
town  built  by  Sir  Titus  Salt,  is  4  M,  distant.  The 
factory  covers  12  acres,  and  is  6  stories  high.  Ely. 
hence  (7-8  M,)  to  Keighley  Junction,  whence  a  branch 
line  conducts  (4  M.)  to  Haworth  {Blach  Bull  Inn). 
The  village  has  been  much  altered  since  the  time  of  the 
Brontes.  The  parsonage,  where  lived  from  1820  to 
1860  the  father  of  the  marvellous  girls  who  wrote 
Shirley,  Jane  Eyre,  etc.,  has  been  much  changed.  All 
the  Bronte  family, except  Anne, are  buried  at  Haworth. 
There  is  a  tablet  to  their  memory  in  the  ch, ;  Char- 
lotte's signature  may  be  seen  on  the  register.  Many 
Americans  make  pilgrimages  to  this  rude  moorland 
country,  hallowed  by  the  manifestations  of  genius. 

rianchester,  Lincoln,  Derby,  etc. 

We  recommend  the  tourist  to  return  to  Leeds,  and 
go  thence  to  Manchester,  200  trains  pass  daily  be- 
tween these  two  towns  (42-|-  M. ;  fares,  7s.,  5s,  3d., 


104  MANCHESTER. 

3s.  9d.).  On  the  way  you  traverse  tlie  Morley  tunnei 
(2  M.  long) ;  and  Huddersfield  {Queen's  Hotel; 
George),  a  handsome  manufacturing  town  of  81,000 
inhab.  Near  by  is  Kirklees  Hall,  on  the  site  of  the 
nunnery  where,  if  we  may  believe  the  old  ballads,  Robin 
Hood  was  bled  to  death  by  a  nun,  and  where  the  cele- 
brated outlaw's  grave  is  shown.  Stanedge  Tunnel  (3  M. 
long)  comes  next.  Near  Ashton-under-Lyne  are  100 
cotton-mills.  Beyond  Ashton  the  scenery  is  extremely 
beautiful. 

Manchester  {Queen'' s;  Midland;  Or  and;  Victoria; 
AlUoib ;  G-rosvenor ;  Uoyal ;  Waterloo)  and  Salford 
are  connected  by  numerous  bridges.  The  population 
numbers  about  800,000;  and  the  two  towns  cover  9 
square  M.  Rectus  says  :  "  Manchester  was  the  Mancu- 
niam  of  the  Romans,  and  in  the  14th  century  was  already 
known  for  its  manufactures  of  stuffs,  established  by 
riemish  artisans  after  the  rehgious  wars.  In  our  time 
it  is  the  'cotton  metropolis.'"  The /S^^p  Canal,  35^ 
M.  long,  26ft.  deep,  made  at  a  cost  of  £15,000,000, 
has  converted  the  town  into  a  seaport  and  ensured 
the  continuance  of  its  prosperity. 

The  Gothic  Cathedral {\^1V)  was  restored  in  1845-68, 
The  celebrated  Neio  Free  Trade  Hall  ^idiixA^  in  Peter-St., 
near  the  scene  of  the  "  Peterloo  Massacre."  The  large 
hall,  in  which  Cobden  and  Bright  have  made  many 
famous  speeches,  can  hold  7,000  persons.  The  New 
Town  Hall,  the  Royal  Exchange,  tiie  Corn  Exchange, 
are  imposing  modern  structures.  In  front  of  tlie  Royal 
Infirmary,  in  Piccadilly,  are  bronze  statues  of  the  Duke 
of  Wellington,  Sir  Robert  Peel,  Watt,  and  Dalton  (the 
chemist).  Chetham.  College  has  a  fine  library,  Owen's 
College,  in  Oxford-St.,  is  an  elegant  structure.  In  the 
Grammar  School  De  Quincey  received  his  early  edu- 
cation. See  the  Aissize  Courts,  good  example  of  Gothic 
architecture ;  the  vast  County  Jail;  the  Museum  of 


ENGLAND  105 

JSfaturcd  History;   the  Albert  Memorial ;  the  John 
liylancTs  Library. 

Manchester  is  reached  from  London  by  the  Midland 
Rly.  (189  M.;  5  hrs.  ;  fares,  24s.  6d..  20s.,  and  15s. 
5^d.),  which  traverses  a  deUcioiis  coiiatry.  It  is  41 
M.  (fares,  7s.  6d.,  4s.  7d.,  3s.  5d.)  hence  to  Sheffield 
{Midland  Hotel;  Victoria;  Angel;  King's  Head),  the 
(leadquarters  of  the  steel  and  cutlery  trade  of  England 
(with  suburbs,  284,500  inhab.).  Sheffield  is  shrouded 
In  smoke,  so  that  one  scarcely  gets  a  glimpse  of  its 
really  fine  situation  on  a  chain  of  hills.  St.  Peter's 
Ch.,  with  the  Shreicsbury  Chapel;  the  Manor  House, 
restored  by  the  Duke  of  Norfolk  ;  the  Shreicsbury 
Hospital;  the  statute  of  Elliott,  the  Corn-Law  Rhymer; 
and  the  GutUrs  Hall,  ure  the  piincipal  sights.  From 
Sheffield  it  is  18  M.  (fares,  2s.  9d.,  2s.  2d.,  Is.  6d.)  to 
Doncaster  {Angel;  Reindeer;  prices  high  race  wk.), 
a  clean  and  well-built  town,  of  Roman  origin,  on  the 
Don ;  noted  tor  its  line  Ch.  of  ISL  George,  and  tor  the 
famous  St.  Leger  race,  established  in  1778.  Near  by 
is  the  grand  old  Conishorough  Castle,  described  in 
loanhoe.  It  is  39  M.  (fares,  5s.  lid.,  4s.  3d.,  3s.  l|d.) 
hence  to  the  ancient  cathedral-town  of 

Lincoln  {^Great  Northern  Railway  Hotel ;  Sara- 
cen's  Head  ;  Spread  Eagle),  which  was  at  the  time  of 
the  Norman  Conquest  one  of  the  chief  British  cities. 
Under  the  Roman  domination  it  had  been  one  of  the 
best  of  their  fortified  camps.  In  1141  King  Stephen 
was  taken  prisoner,  after  a  battle  at  Lincoln  by  Robert, 
Earl  of  Gloucester.  There  the  Dauphin's  party  was 
overthrown  by  the  Earl  of  Pembroke,  in  Henry  III.'s 
minority.  The  city  was  stormed  by  the  Parliamentary 
army  in  1644.  The  Cathedral  stands  on  the  summit 
of  a  hill,  whence  it  can  be  seen  for  many  miles  around. 
It  was  founded  in  1075,  by  Bishop  Remigius  of  Ee- 
pamp  ;  destroyed  by  an  earthquake,  about  1200 ;  and 
rebuilt  by  Bishop  Piugh  of  Avalon,  1220-60,  and  dedi- 


106  LINCOLN. — BOSTON. 

cated  to  the  Virgin.  The*  towers  on  the  splendid  W. 
front  command  a  view  down  the  vale  of  the  Witham, 
as  far  as  Boston.  The  length  is  482  ft.  ;  width  of  W. 
front,  174:  ft. ;  height  of  central  tower,  260  ft.  Note 
the  Norman  font  of  Remigius;  the  Galilee  Porch;  the 
choir,  with  wonderful  wood-carving  and  stone-vaulting; 
the  Easter  Sepulchre ;  the  delicately  carved  screens  ; 
the  lady  chapel.  The  big  bell  weighs  5|  tons.  See 
the  Cloisters,  on  the  N.  side,  and  tiieir  Roman  pave- 
ment. In  the  Library  are  many  Roman  ;«itiquities. 
Monuments  to  Catherine,  wife  of  John  of  Gaunt,  and 
Joan,  Countess  of  Westmoreland,  and  of  many  old 
bishops  and  deans.  Tlie  greater  part  of  the  ch.  is 
Early  English ;  but  part  of  the  W.  front  is  Norman. 
The  'l3th  century  produced  nothing  finer  than  the  rose- 
window  in  the  N.  transept.  In  the  S.  transept  there 
is  also  a  fine  rose- window.  See  the  sculptured  angels 
in  the  Freshytery,  or  Angel  Choir.  Near  by  is  the 
Bishop's  Palace,  founded  by  Bp.  Hugh,  which  had 
fallen  into  ruins  but  is  now  rebuilt  ;  the  Castle,  erected 
by  William  tlie  Conqueror  (now  tlie  county  courts) ; 
the  Neioport,  a  splendid  Roman  ruin,  and  fragments 
of  the  Roman  wall  ;  John  of  Gaunt's  Palace  /  the 
Guildhall  J  and  the  tine  old  titoiiebow  gate. 

Boston  (^Peacock  Hotel)  is  \-l\  hrs.  S.  E.  of  Lin. 
cohi,  and  has  15,000  hihab.,  many  antiquities,  and 
some  commerce.  It  is  5  M.  from  the  sea.  It  was 
called  Botolplis  Town  from  the  saint  who  founded  a 
nionastery  here,  in  654.  St.  Botolph's  Ch.,  built  1309, 
is  the  largest  British  parish  ch.  without  aisles,  and  is 
291  ft.  long  and  99  ft.  wide,  with  a  splendid  tower^ 
800  ft.  high,  visible  from  afar  over  ihe  sea  and  the  fens, 
32  M.  by  rly.  from  Boston  is  Pet^rljorourjli. 

Go  next  from  Lincoln  to  Nottingham.  Just  outside 
of  Lincoln,  curious  Ch.  of  Bracebridge  All  Saints.     At 


ENGLAND.  107 

Newark  {Clinton  Arms;  The  Saracen's  Hcaa)  is  St. 
Mary  Magdalene,  a  splendid  old  cli.,  with  fine  brasses, 
stained  windows,  and  a  tall  tower,  sustaining-  statues 
of  the  Apostles;  also  a  venerable .  ruined  Castle,  built 
in  the  reign  of  Stephen,  and  often  besieged.  Herein, 
died  King  John.  Belvoir  Castle,  the  palace  of  the 
Duke  of  Rutland,  is  near  by.  Newark  was  once  fa- 
mous for  its  inns,  and  the  Saracen''s  Head  existed  in 
the  time  of  Edward  III.  Sir  Walter  Scott  makes 
Jeannie  Deans  rest  there  on  her  way  from  Midlothian 
to  London.  Just  before  reaching  Nottingham,  the 
train  traverses  the  grounds  of  Colwick  Hall,  where 
Byron's  "Mary  Chaworth"  lived. 

]>J'ottingh.ani  {Clarendon  Hotel ;  Flying  Hor^e  : 
Victoria  Station:  Portland ;  George)  stands  on  a 
rocky  eminence  N.  of  the  river  Trent.  It  is  the  chief 
place  for  the  making  of  lace  and  hosiery  in  Enuhuid 
(230,000  inhab.).  The  old  town  is  a  labyrintii  of  n- • 
row  and  crooked  streets.  The  Market-Flaee  is  an  open 
area  of  5|  acres,  with  the  Exchange  at  its  E.  end.  See 
the  N.  and  S.  Parades  ;  Mortimer's  Hole,  a  strange  ex- 
cavation from  the  castle  to  the  river;  Standard  Hill, 
wdiere  King  Charles  I.  unfurled  for  the  first  time  the 
ro^^al  flag  in  1642;  the  Rock  Holes:  tlie  Park;  and 
Swinton  Hermitage.  St.  Mary's  Ck.  is  a  grand  old 
cruciform  building.  This  Mas  a  Danish  town,  and 
"William  I.  erected  a  castle  here,  which  was  often  be- 
sieged. The  Castle,  on  the  same  lofty  rock  of  red 
sandstone,  Avas  destroyed  by  the  mob  in  1831.  It  has 
been  restored,  and  is  occupied  by  the  Midland  Counties 
Art  Museum.  Splendid  view  over  the  Vale  of  Trent,  to 
Belvoir  Castle.  The  country  round  about  is  filled  with 
memorials  of  Byron.  Newstead  Abbey,  which  he 
inherited  when  it  was  almost  in  ruins,  is  11  M.  N  W. 
Go  by  rail  to  Linby  stat.,  9|  M.,  and  walk  (ii  M-^  +o 


108  DiilRBY. 

the  house,  wliich  is  not  usually  shown.  An  Augus- 
tinian  abbey  was  founded  here  by  Henry  IT.  in  1170, 
and  fell  to  Sir  John  Byron  in  1540.  The  grounds  and 
forest  are  beautiful.  The  residence  has  been  carefully 
restored.  The  ruined  ch.,  "a  glorious  remnant  of  the 
Gothic  pile,"  and  the  cloister,  with  a  fountain  in  its 
centre,  are  very  fine ;  the  poet's  mean  bedroom  is  kept 
as  he  lelt  it.  Many  beautiful  and  art-enriched  halls  are 
shown.  On  the  lawn  is  the  monument  to  Boatswain, 
Byron's  dog.  In  front  of  the  abbey  is  the  lake,  so 
often  mentioned  in  the  poenis. 

Here  you  are  on  the  border  of  Sherwood  Forest, 
with  legends  of  Robin  Hood  at  every  turn.  Robin 
Hood's  Hill  and  Fountain  Dale  are  near  Newstead  Ab* 
bey.  3  M.  off  is  Annesley  Old  Hall,  containing  the 
"  antique  oratory  "  mentioned  in  Byron's  "  The  Dream." 
Hucknall  Ch.,  where  Lord  Byron,  his  mother,  and  his 
only  daughter  are  buried,  is  \  M.  from  Linby.  lie- 
turning  to  Nottingham,  spend  the  night  there,  and 
take  early  train  (15f  M. :  Is.  9d.,  Is.  6d.)  to 

Derby  {Midland  Hotel,  close  to  station;  St.  James; 
Royal),  and  thence  to  Rowsley  (fares,  2s.  lid,, 
Is.  9^d).  Derby  was  the  Uoman  stat.  Derventio,  and 
here  Uichardson  the  novelist  was  born.  The  fine  Derby 
spar  is  found  near  by.  There  are  rare  old  monuments 
in  the  Cavendish  chapel  of  All  Saints'  Ch.  Derby  is 
the  entrance  to  tliat  deliglitful  region  known  as  The 
Peak  of  Derbyshire.  Those  who  do  not  wish  to 
make  detours  can  reach  Derby  or  Rowsley,  from  Liver- 
pool and  Manchester,  by  the  JMidland  Line.  The  Peak 
is  a  picturesque  district,  containing  "that  beautiful 
scenery  of  the  millstone  grit  and  mt.  limestone  for 
which  the  county  is  so  pre-eminent.  This  scenic  in- 
terest, however,  does  not  arise  so  much  from  the  ele- 
vation of  the  hills  as  from  their  romantic  grouping  and 


ENGLAND.  109 

the  bold  and  varied  arrangement  of  the  dales  and  cloughsj 
which  offer  exquisite  landscape  pictures."  Reach 
Rowsley  at  9  a.m.,  and  (leaving  your  baggage  —  ex- 
cept umbrella  and  waterproof — in  the  stat.  cloak-room) 
make  a  bargain  with  a  driver,  and  go  at  once  to  Had- 
don  Hall,  1-|  M.  (1  person,  2s.  6d. ;  2-3  persons.  Is. 
each.  Bargahi  for  the  same  driver  to  take  vou  both 
to  Haddon  and  Chatsworth.  If  lie  waits,  you  must 
make  special  terms).  Eaddon  Hall,  on  a  hill  E.  of 
the  Wye,  which  is  crossed  by  a  pictiu-esque  bridge,  is 
an  ancient  seat  of  the  Dukes  of  Rutland.  There  hved 
Sir  George  Yernon  (1545),  whose  profuse  hospitality 
procured  him  the  title  of  "  King  of  the  Peak ;  "  thence 
fair  Dorothy  Yernon  eloped  to  marry  her  lover.  Sir 
John  Manners  ;  and  there,  in  the  State  Bedchamber^ 
are  the  famous  tapestries  illustrating  Jisop's  Pables, 
woven  at  the  Gobelins  in  Paris.  Yisitors  are  shown 
the  Chaplain*s  Moom,  the  Chapel,  the  Banqueting -Hall, 
the  Dining-Room,  with  the  inscription,  "  Drede  God 
and  honor  the  Kyng,"  over  the  fireplace  ;  the  I)rau-i?7g- 
Room,  the  State  and  Earl's  Bedchambers^  and  Peverirs 
Toioer.     Small  fee  to  servant. 

Chats-worth  (3  M.  from  Rowsley  ;  4  M.  from  Bake- 
well  stat.)  is  the  finest  mansion  in  England.  It  is 
a  favorite  residence  of  the  Duke  of  Devonshire,  and  is 
called  the  "Palace  of  the  Peak."  The  old  Hall  was 
used  as  a  fortress  in  the  Civil  War,  both  by  forces  of 
Xing  and  Parliament.  The  present  S.  front  dates  from 
1687  ;  the  E.  side,  great  hall,  and  staircase,  from  1690 ; 
the  N.  front,  from  1704.  See  the  Conservator?/,  Great 
Ball  (67  X  20  ft.).  Chapel,  Grand  Drawing-Room, 
Libraries,  Dining-Room  (58  X  30  ft.),  Sculpture  Gal- 
lery  (103  X  30  ft.),  Oratigery,  Sketch  Gallery  (original 
drawings  by  Angelo,  Raphael,  Diirer,  Titian,  ^tc). 
State  Apartments,  Gallery  of  Paintitigs  (Titian,  Salvator 


no  MATLOCK  BATH.  — BAKE  WELL. 

Rosa,  Tintoretto,  Murillo,  Holbein,  etc.).  State  DroAV- 
ing-Room.  Two  of  the  state  rooms  are  called  those  of 
Mary  Queen  of  Scots,  because  she  was  long  a  prisoner 
there.  The  Arboretum,  Conservatory,  and  Gardens 
(6d.  to  gardener)  should  be  seen.  The  French  Garden 
comes  first,  then  the  Camellia  and  Orchid  Houses ; 
next  a  copper  willow-tree ;  then  the  vast  Conservatory 
(276  X  13B  ft.)'  See  the  Emperor  Fountain,  and  go 
out  by  the  Italian  garden.  The  Old  Hunting  Tower 
and  Queen  Mary's  Bower  deserve  notice.  Chatsworth 
is  open  daily  (11-5  (Sat.  11-1).  Queer  old  village  of 
Edensor  {Chatsworth  Hotel,  good)  outside  Park 
gates.  In  the  church  is  the  tomb  of  Lord  Frederick 
Cavendish,  assassinated  in  Dublin  in  1882. 

Returning  to  Rowsley,  lunch  at  the  Feacoch  Inn, 
an  old  hostelry,  with  a  pretty  garden.  (Write  or 
telegraph  ahead  for  rooms.)  The  famous  Matlock 
Bath  {New  Bath  Hotel)  is  in  the  romantic  Matlock 
Dale,  on  the  Derwent.  Said  Hawthorne:  "I  have 
never  seen  anywhere  else  such  exquisite  scenery." 
Rocky  and  foliage-clad  crags  rise  3u0  ft.  above  the  ■ 
river,  and  there  are  many  fine  grottos  in  them. 
Masson  hill,  1,000  ft.  high,  commands  a  grand  view 
down  the  Derwent  defiles.  Branch  line  from  Matlock 
to  Buxton  (/Si^.  Anne's  Hotel;  Palace;  Old  Hall),  1 
hr.  from  Manchester.  Fine  springs  here,  in  the  Wye 
valley,  efficient  in  curing  rheumatism  and  gout,  12 
acres  in  public  gardens. — Bakewell  {Rutland  Arms 
Inn)  has  a  fine  ch.,  with  Vernon  and  Manners 
monuments.  The  rural  beauty  of  this  section  is  not 
surpassed  in  England.  Hardivich  Hall  and  Bolsover 
Castle,  both  in  Derbyshire,  are  superb  mansions, 
filled  ,with  art-treasures.  The  former  may  be  reached 
from  Clay-Cross  stat.,  between  Derby  and  Sheffield; 
the  latter  from  Langwith.  Burton  -  on  -  Trent 
is  the  site  of  vast  ale  breweries.  We  now  suggest 
that  you  go  from  the  Derbyshire  district  to 


ENGLAND  111 

Birmingham  {Queen's  Hoiel,  at  New  St.  station; 
Plough  &  JIarroiv;  Cohdeii).  Fares  from  Manchester 
to  Birmingham,  12s.  6cl.,  9s.  3d.,  6s.  ll|d.;  from 
Rowsley,  8s.  7d.,  5s.  3^d.  You  can  leave  Nottingham 
early,  go  to  Rowsley,  Haddon  Hall,  Chatsworth,  and 
Buxton,  and  get  to  Birmingham  at  night,  Birming» 
ham  is  the  birthplace  of  Priestley,  a  centre  of  liberal 
thought,  and  a  great  manufacturing  place  (435,000 
inhab.).  Camden  said  of  old  "  Bremicham  "  (Brum- 
magem ?),  that  **  it  echoed  with  the  noise  of  anvils, 
for  tliere  were  a  great  many  smiths."  Almost 
everything  that  can  be  made  of  metal  is  fabricated 
at  Birmingham.  Visit  the  Elkington's  Electro-Dilate 
Works ;  Gillott's  Steel  Pen  Works ;  the  Mint ;  the 
gun-works  ;  the  ToiDn  Hall,  in  which  are  held  the 
renowned  triennial  musical  festivals.  NeiD  Corpora- 
tion Offices ;  Free  Library ;  Neio  Post  Office;  3Iar- 
ket Hall ;  Exchange;  Birmingham  and  Midland  In- 
stitute: King  Edward  VI.' s  Free  Grammar  School; 
General  Hospital;  St.  Martin's  Ch.;  Aston  Hall,  in 
the  handsome  Aston  Park.  The  Botanical  Gardens 
(Is.;  on  Mon.,  Id.)  are  worth  notice. 

Excursions  may  be  made  to  (13  M.)  Wolver- 
hampton {Star  and  Garter ;  Talhot),the  metropo- 
lis of  the  Black  Conntry,  which  has  manufacturing 
trade  in  tin  and  iron  goods  (85,000  inhab.).  Things 
to  see  :  St.  Peter's  Ch.;  Queen  s-Square,  with  eques- 
trian statue  of  Prince  Albert;  Lilrrary  ;  Theatre; 
Orphan  Asylum. — To  (29  M  )  Stafiford  {Northicest- 
em  Hotel  ;  Swan),  a  well-built  modern  town. 
Izaak  Walton  was  a  native  of  this  place.  See 
old  timber-houses,  especially  the  JSfoah's  Ark,  in 
Crabbery-St. ;  St.  Mary's  and  St.  Chad's  CJis.;  the 
Bury  Ring ;  Stafford  Castle,  ^  M.  out.  Leather 
is  the  chief  industry.  —  To  Kidderminster,  fa- 
mous for  the  manufacture  of  carpets.  The  old  ch. 
is    a   fine   Gothic    monument.     A   walk    through 


112  WORCESTER.-COYENTRY. 

the  ch.-yard  commands  views  of  the  town  and  river 
Stour.  In  the  vicinity  are  the  Clent  Hills.  Richard 
Baxter  preached  here  25  years. — To  Worcester 
{Star  Hotel;  Crown),  nearly  in  the  centre  of  England, 
and  finely  situated  on  an  ascent  from  the  Severn.  The 
Foregate-St.  is  very  handsome.  The  Cathedral  is  an 
elegant  structure,  built  in  1024-1374,  394  ft.  long, 
78  wide,  162  high.  Beautifully  decorated  in  the  lady 
chapel,  where  the  roof  is  covered  with  figures  painted 
in  medallions.  The  fine  stone  pulpit  in  the  choir  is 
restored.  See  the  enamelled  metal  cross  above  the 
choir-screen.  Among  the  monuments  is  King  John's, 
one  of  the  most  ancient  in  England ;  statues  of  Bishops 
Wulstan,  "Oswald  and  Hough;  tomb  of  Prince  Arthur, 
son  of  Henry  V.,  a  fine  Gothic  bit.  The  cloisters 
where  the  monks  once  resided  are  interesting.  The 
handsome  decagonal  chapter-house  is  now  used  as  a 
national  school.  Other  public  buildings:  Episcopal 
Palace,  close  by  the  Severn;  the  Commandery; 
Edgar'' 8  Tower;  the  Guildhall,  with  royal  statues; 
and  the  Hopmarhet,  the  most  important  in  England. 

Coventry,  Kenil worth,  Warwick, 
Stratford=on=Avon. 

It  is  a  relief  to  get  out  of  the  region  of  factories 
into  the  delightful  quiet  of  old  Coventry  {Craven 
Arms;  King's  Head  Hotel;  Queen's  Hotel).  Distance 
from  Birmingham,  18f  M. ;  fares,  3s.  6d.,  2s.  6d.,  Is 
7id.  Coventry  was  formerly  the  third  city  in  the 
kingdom.  Everyone  knows  the  story  of  Lady  Gro- 
diva.  An  effigy,  called  Peeping  Tom,  is  still  exhibited 
at  the  corner  of  Hertf  ord-St.  In  Richard  II.  's  time 
the  city  was  defended  by  a  wall,  with  26  towers  and 
12  gates,   some  of  which  remain;    but  the  greater 


ENGLAND.  113 

part  of  them  were  destroyed  by  Charles  II.     Coven- 
try retains  much  of  its  ancient  picturesque  aspect,  with 
narrow  streets,  fine  old  gables,  and  half-timber  liouses, 
and  several  hrs.  can  be  profitably  spent  there.     The 
"  three  tall  spires  "  of  which  Tennyson  speaks  are  those 
of  St.  Michael's,  Trinity,  and  Christ  Clis.    SL  Michael's, 
one  of  the  finest  Gothic  structures  in  England,  w^as 
founded  about  1133.     The  charming  spire,  303  ft.  high, 
was  built  1373-95.     The  ch.  was  rebuilt  in  1434,  and 
is    400   ft.    long.     "Most   magnificent, — so   old,  yet 
enduring ;    so   huge,   so   rich,"   Hawthorne   found  it. 
Triniti/   Ch.  is  close  to   St.   Michael's,  and  was   once 
a  fine  specimen  oi  Gothic.     Dugdale  finds  a  mention 
of  its  annexation  to  the  Benedictine  Priory  in  1260. 
Chrisi    Ch.  was  founded   by  the   begging   ^reyfriars. 
The  spire  is   the  only  remaining  part  of  the  old  ch. ; 
St.  John's  Ch.,  at  the  N.  W.  end  of  the  city,  Is  a 
fine  old  building,  with  a  massive  tower.     St.  MaTy'% 
Hall  is  a   beaiitifnl  edifice   near   St.  Michael's.     It 
1  originally  belonged  to   St.    Catherine's    Guild,    and 
;  was    built  about  the  middle  of  the   14th  century, 
I  The    Free    School;  Grey  friars    or    Ford    Hospital; 
'  the    Workhouse,   built  out    of    the    remains    of    the 
IVhitefriars    Monastery   (founded    in    1342)  ;    and 
'the  remnants  of  the  gates,  are  other  objects  of  in-   ' 
terest.     A  few  fragments  of  the  Benedictine  Priory, 
jfounded  in  1043,  are  left.     About  4  M.  out  is  Stone- 
jleigh  Abbey,  a  place  of  great  antiquity,  held  before 
ithe  Conquest  by  King  Edward.     Henry  II.  granted  it 
|to  a  body  of  Cistercian  monks.     The  site  is  a  lovely 
jljone,  the  Avon  bathing  two  sides  of  the  verdant  slopes 
on  which  the  old  monastic  house  was  located.     There 
is  a  fine  park  in  front ;  and  a  road,  crossing  the  Avon 
iby  an  elegant  stone  bridge,  conducts  to  the  gateway. 
The   building  b  clothed  with  ivy,  and  its  ponderous* 


114  KENILWORTH. 

oaken  gates  are  very  curious.  Within  the  state  apart- 
ments are  many  paintings  by  Rembrandt,  Van  Dyck, 
Holbein,  Teniers,  etc. 

For  those  who  have  time,  nothing  can  be  more  de- 
lightful than  a  leisurely  tour  on  foot  from  Coventry 
to  Kenilworth,  Warwick,  and  Stratford-on-Avon ; 
going  out  from  this  region  of  fine  old  castles,  lovely 
valleys,  and  beautiful  fields,  by  Riigby,  and  thence 
either  straight  down  to  London,  or  to  Peterboro',  and 
Ely,  making  a  detour  to  Cambridge  and  Oxford.  For 
those  who  desire  to  see  Kenilworth,  Warwick  and 
Stratford,  and  get  away  to  London  at  night,  there  will 
be  no  other  course  than  to  take  a  carriage  at  Coventry, 
Leamington,  Warwick,  or  Stratford.  A  beautiful  trip 
is  as  follows:  Go  from  Coventry  (5  M.),  by  a  road 
shaded  all  the  way  by  fine  elms  and  sycamores,  to 
Kenilworth  (King^s  Arms  ;  Abbey  ;  Castle),  where 
chief  attraction  is  Kenilworth  Castle,  standing  on  an 
eminence  to  the  W.  The  first  buildings,  in  a  deep  hol- 
low overgrown  by  underbrush,  are  the  base  and  side 
walls  of  the  Gallery  Tower,  the  S.  E.  end  of  the  Tilt 
Yard,  and  originally  the  chief  entrance  to  the  Castle. 
Enter  by  a  gate  in  the  N.  wall  (ti'ifiing  fee),  and  first 
arrive  at  Leicester' s  Gatehouse,  a  square  building  of 
four  stories,  flanked  at  each  angle  with  an  octagonal 
tower,  and  embattled.  This  building  is  not  entered 
by  visitors,  as  it  is  a  private  residence.  Passing 
on,  you  come  directly  in  front  of  the  main  build- 
ings; and  looking  W.  have  the  inner  court  in  full 
view.  The  E.  side  of  the  square  was  composed 
of  buildings  erected  by  King  Henry  VIII.  and  Sir 
Robert  Dudley,  but  is  now  wholly  destroyed.  On 
the  r.  is  CcBsafs  Tower,  a  vast  keep  of  immense 
strength,  with  walls  many  feet  thick.  Beyond  is  the 
building  called  Mervyn's  Tower,  which  all  readers  of 
Scott's  novel  of  Kenilworth  will  visit.  The  chambers 


ENGLAND.  115 

sre  all  arcfied  with  stone,  and  it  is  supposed  that  they 
served  as  prisons  in  the  time  of  Henry  II.  From  the 
top  may  be  seen  on  the  r.  the  remains  of  the  Swan 
Tower,  which  formed  the  N.  W.  angle  of  the  outer 
walls  built  in  Henry  III.'s  time.  Adjoining  Mervyn 
Tower,  on  the  S.,  is  the  great  Banqueting -Rail,  built  by 
John  of  Gaunt.  The  floor  was  supported  on  a  stone 
vaulting,  carried  on  parallel  rows  of  pillars,  the  remains 
of  which  may  be  seen.  Notice  the  great  height  of  the 
windows,  which  were  filled  with  tracery,  and  transomed. 
Beyond  the  Banqueting-Hall  are  the  White  Hall,  the 
Presence  Chamber,  and  the  Privy  Chamber;  and  still 
S.  are  the  remains  of  Leicester's  buildings,  of  great 
height  and  remarkable  architectural  beauty.  The  cas- 
tle was  founded  by  Geoffroy  de  Clinton,  Chamber- 
lain to  Henry  I. ;  to  pass  presently  to  the  crown  of 
Henry  III.  It  was  granted  to  Simon  de  Montfort, 
and  became  the  resort  for  the  insurgent  nobles.  After 
Leicester's  defeat  and  death,  his  eklest  son  sheltered 
himself  in  this  fortress ;  and  there  was  a  famous  siege,  in 
which  the  castle  held  out  for  6  months.  In  Edward  I.'s 
time  a  magnificent  tournament  occurred  here.  Edward 
II.  lay  a  prisoner  in  the  castle  at  one  time  ;  and  the 
visits  of  Elizabeth  to  Kenilworth  were  in  1566,  1568, 
and  1575.     Tlie  last  was  immortalized  by  Scott. 

Erom  Kenilworth  by  the  highway  to  Warwick  is 
about  5  M.,  by  Leek  Wool  ton,  a  village  buil^.  on  a  rocky 
eminence  and  quite  picturesque.  1  M.  beyond  is 
Blacklow  Hill,  where,  from  an  opening  in  the  trees, 
is  seen  the  monument  erected  to  mark  the  spot  on 
which  Piers  Gaveston.  Earl  ot'  Cornwall,  was  be- 
headed. 1^  M.  from  Warwick,  is  Gufs  Cliff,  the 
handsome  country-seat  of  Lord  Percy,  and  a  place  of 
religious  retirement  more  than  4  centuries  previous  to 
the  time  of  Earl  Guy  Warwick,  who  is  supposed  at  this 


116  WARWICK. 

place  to  have  finished  his  life  of  adventure,  as  a  her. 
mit.  Leland,  in  Henry  YIII.'s  time,  calls  this  "the 
abode  of  pleasure,  a  place  meet  for  the  Muses."  Cam- 
den, Dugdale,  and  Fuller  are  all  equally  eutlmsiastic  in 
its  praise.     Guif  s  CciDe  and  Gti^s  Well  are  s lio wr?. 

Warwick  ( Warwick  Ai^ms ;  Dale  Temjperance  : 
these  houses,  though  comfortable,  are  small  and  apt  to 
be  crowded  ;  it  is  best  to  telegraph  for  rooms  in  ad- 
vanced is  near  the  centre  of  beautiful  Warwickshire, 
on  a  rocky  hill,  past  which  the  Avon  flows.  The  town 
is  of  Saxon  origin,  and  was  formerly  surrounded  with 
strong  walls,  of  Avhich  there  are  now  but  few  rem- 
nants. The  old  gates  are  interesting ;  and  the  Hospital, 
founded  by  the  Earl  of  Leicester,  is  one  of  the  finest 
specimens  of  half-timber  buildings.  It  stands  at  ths 
W.  end  of  High-St.,  of  which  its  chapel,  v/hich  pos- 
sesses a  very  beautiful  window,  forms  a  striking  orna- 
ment. Under  the  chapel  is  a  curious  vaulted  passage 
of  great  antiquity,  through  which  an  entrance  into  the 
town  once  passed.  A  tower,  built  by  Tliomas  de  Beau- 
champ,  in  the  time  of  Richard  II.,  rises  above  the 
chapel.  This  formed  the  W.  gateway  of  the  fortifi- 
cations. It  has  a  richly  groined  ceiling.  In  this  hos- 
pital a  limited  number  of  brothers  are  allowed.  They 
have  to  wear  a  livery  when  abroad,  consisting  of  a  fine 
blue  broadcloth  gown,  with  a  silver  badge  of  a  bear  and 
ragged  staff,  Lord  Leicester's  device,  St.  Mary's  is  the 
principal  ch.  in  Warwick.  It  was  founded  prior  to  the 
Conquest ;  and  contains  many  curious  monuments,  and 
Beauchamp  Chapel,  v.^hich  is  considered  the  most  splen- 
did in  England,  after  that  of  Henry  VII. 

"Warwick  Castle,  one  of  the  noblest  residences  in 
England,  is  S.  E.  of  the  town,  on  a  high  rock  which 
overlooks  the  Avon.  Before  entering  the  castle,  walk 
down  to  the  stone,  bridge,  from  which  there  is  a  fine 


ENGLAND.  117 

view  of  the  castle.  The  moonliglit  view  is  striking. 
Enter  the  castle  bj  a  huge  gate,  and  walk  up  a  winding 
way,  bordered  by  moss-grown  rock,  to  the  outer  court, 
formerly  a  vineyard,  renowned  for  its  grapes  in  the  time 
of  Henry  lY.  On  the  r.  is  Guys  Tower,  128  ft.  high, 
30  ft.  in  diameter,  and  with  walls  10  ft.  thick  ;  and  on 
the  1.  the  venerable  Casars  Tower,  coeval  with  the 
Norman  Conquest.  This  is  connected  with  Guy's 
Tower  by  an  embattled  wall,  in  the  centre  of  which  is 
the  great  arched  gateway,  flanked  by  towers  and  suc- 
ceeded by  a  second,  whose  towers  and  battlements  rise 
above  those  of  the  first.  After  passing  the  double 
gateway  you  are  in  the  inner  court,  and  see  the  great 
castle  directly  in  front  of  you.  When  the  family  is 
absent  (and  it  generally  is),  the  interior  is  shown.  The 
rooms  shown  are  the  Great  Hall,  from  which  a  view  is 
obtained  through  the  state  rooms,  a  straight  line  of  333 
ft.,  terminated  at  the  W.  end  by  a  window.  Prom  this 
great  hall  may  also  be  seen,  at  the  end  of  the  Chapel 
Passage,  Van  Dyck's  celebrated  painting  of  Charles  I. 
You  pass  through  the  Red  Drawing -Room  ;  the  Cedar 
Dratoing-Room,  containing  a  bust  by  Hiram  Powers, 
and  a  portrait  of  Charles  I.  by  Van  Dyck  ;  and  next 
enter  the  Gilt  Drawing-room,  wliicli  contains  many 
old  paintings.  The  bed  and  furniture  in  the  State 
Bedroom  belonged  to  Queen  Anne.  The  tapestry  in 
this  room  is  very  fine.  The  Boudoir  is  a  veritable 
museum  \  and  the  effect  of  the  immense  height,  and 
the  tree-tops,  which  come  up  to  the  very  windows, 
is  curious.  Here  are  pictures  bj^  Holbein,  Rubens, 
Vandyke,  etc.  From  thence  pass  through  the  Arm- 
ory  Passage  to  a  billiard-room,  rich  witli  portraits  ; 
a  Com2M6s-Eoom,  the  Chapel,  and  the  Library,  in 
which  is  the  famous  Kenilworth  buffet,  made  of  oak 
grown  on  the  Kenilworth  estate.    In  the  Breakfast 


118  WARWICK  CASTLE. 

Rooin  is  a  fine  collection  of  paintings  by  Canaletto,  w\\.Q 
resided  for  some  time  at  the  castle.  (Small  fee  to  ser« 
vaut  who  shows  the  apartments :  for  one  person,  6d. 
or  Is.;  for  a  party  of  4,  2s.)  Csesar's Tower,  neaily 
150ft.  high,  has  a  dark  and  dismal  dungeon  beneath  it, 
on  the  Avails  of  which  are  scrawls  made  by  prisoners. 
Guy's  To"wer,  the  top  of  which  is  reached  by  a  flight 
of  133  steps,  commands  a  noble  view  of  Coventry, 
Kenilworth,  Guy's  Cliff,  Leamington,  and  the  neigh- 
borliood.  The  gardens  are  very  fine,  and  on  the  hill  of 
the  tower  are  some  superb  cedars  of  Lebanon.  In  the 
Porter's  Lodge  are  relics  of  the  hero  Guy,  Hawthorne 
calls  this  "  one's  very  idea  of  an  old  castle."  From 
Warwick  to  Leamington  is  2  M.  A  rly.  runs  from  Lea- 
mington through  Warwick  to  Stratford.  (From  War- 
wick to  Stratford,  13^  M.)  The  most  desirable  route, 
however,  is  by  highway,  8  M.  from  Warwick,  past 
•Charlcote,  the  country-seat  of  the  Lucys,  to  Stratford. 
Tills  is  a  delightful  excursion,  and  we  recommend  those 
who  can  to  make  it  on  foot,  that  they  may  linger  among 
the  beautiful  sylvan  scenery,  and  approach  Stratford 
through  the  pleasant  meadows.  Charlcote  House 
is  off  the  route  to  Stratford,  but  the  drivers  usually 
take  you  close  to  it.  It  is  a  handsome  mansion  in  th« 
midst  of  a  beautiful  park,  well  stocked  with  deer, 
the  sight  of  which  will  call  to  mind  the  youthful  ad- 
venture of  Shakespeare  as  a  poacher,  and  the  prose- 
cution which  decided  him  to  render  Sir  Thomas  Lucy 
immortal  as  Justice  Shallov/.  From  Charlcote  you 
pass  through  numerous  fine  bits  of  woodland  country, 
and,  crossing  the  Avon  Bridge,  enter 

Stratford-on-Avon  {Sliahespeare;  Golden  Lion; 
Red  Horse;  Falcon),  quiet  old-fashioned  place,  with 
wide,  well-kept  streets  and  many  handsome  mansions. 
The  Town  Mall  was  dedicated  to  the  memory  of  the 


ENGLAND.  1 1 9 

poet.  'Here  is  a  statue  of  Shakespeare  presented  by 
Garrick.  On  the  pedestal  see  lineo  from  Hamlet  : 
"  Take  him  for  all  in  all,  we  shall  not  loolc  upon  his 
like  again."  Very  interesting  is  the  Shakespeare 
Memorial  Building  a?id  Theatre,  which  we  advise  you 
to  visit  first  on  entering  the  town.  This  memorial 
structure,  in  a  charming  situation  by  the  Avon,  was 
the  outgrowth  of  the  feeling  that  the  poet  should 
have  a  suitable  monument  in  his  native  town. 

From  the  Memorial  go  to  Holi/  Trinity  Ch.,  a  cruci- 
form edifice,  consisting  of  a  nave  with  aisles,  a  transept 
and  chancel,  and  a  square  battlemented  tower,  in  a 
lovely  situation  by  the  Avon,  surrounded  by  a  ch.-yard 
full  of  tombstones,  covered  with  quaint  inscriptions. 
[f  the  doors  are  not  open,  the  driver  will  go  for  the 
ieys.  The  ch.  contains  interesting  monuments  and 
some  very  quaint  wood-carvings.  The  grave  of  Shake- 
speare rS  in  the  floor  of  the  chancel,  covered  by  a  plain 
flagstone.  On  the  chancel-wall,  near  the  grave,  is  an  or- 
namental arch  with  a  bust  of  Shakespeare,  in  :.  thought- 
ful attitude.  From  this  burial-place  of  genius  it  is  but  a 
short  distance  to  the  village  of  Shottery,  where  stands, 
embosomed  in  foliage,  the  pretty  cottage  once  the  resi- 
dence of  Anne  Hathaway.  In  this  humble  abode 
Shakespeare  courted  his  wife.  Mrs.  Baker,  a  Lneal 
descendant  of  the  Hathaways,  shows  the  quaint  inte- 
rior ;  the  oaken  seat  on  which  Shakespeare  and  Anne 
(vere  wont  to  sit ;  many  bits  of  venerable  furniture  ; 
And,  up-stairs,  a  vast  bed,  on  which  many  a  Hathaway 
flas  drawn  the  last  breath  of  life.  She  also  shows  a 
visitors'  book,  wliich  contains  the  names  of  a  great  num- 
ber of  eminent  Englishmen  and  Americans  (small  fee^. 
Return  to  Stratford,  and  in  Henley-St.  you  will  find  the 
Shakespeare  House.  This  is  a  fine  old  half-timber 
building,  iti  >fiiich  the  poet  was  born  (1564),  and  where 


120  STRATFORD-ON-AVON. 

his  family  long  lived.  It  consists  of  3  apartments  on 
the  ground  floor,  one  of  which  is  a  museum;  of  the 
room  in  which  Shakespeare  was  born,  iip-stairs;  and 
smaller  rooms,  in  one  of  which  is  the  celebrated  Strat- 
iofd  portrait  of  the  bard,  unlike  the  commonly  received 
•pictures,  but  believed  by  many  people  to  be  more  au- 
thentic. It  was  painted  over  in  Puritan  times  to  escape 
destruction.  The  room  in  which  the  poet  was  born 
is  in  its  original  state,  except  that  visitors  of  every 
nation  and  every  rank  have  scribbled  their  names  on 
the  walls  and  windows.  The  autographs  of  Byron, 
Scott,  Washington  Irving,  George  IV.,  the  Prince  of 
Orange,  the  Duke  of  Wellington,  Tom  Moore,  Charles 
Dickens,  etc.,  are  pointed  out.  The  house  is  now  the 
property  of  the  nation,  having  been  purchased  in  1847 
by  public  subscription.  In  the  museum  are  early  edi- 
tions of  Shakespeare's  plays;  the  deed  made  in  1596, 
showing  that  John  Shakespeare,  the  father  of  the  poet, 
resided  in  this  house  ;  a  letter  from  Mr.  Richard  Quyney 
to  Shakespeare  in  1598,  requesting  a  loan  of  £30,  the 
only  letter  known  to  be  in  existence,  addressed  to  the 
poet ;  Shakespeare's  signet  ring,  with  the  initials  W.  S. 
upon  it;  an  old  desk,  said  to  have  been  his,  and  re- 
moved from  the  Grammar  School;  the  Shakespeare 
jug,  from  which  Garrick  drank  at  the  Jubilee  in  1769  ; 
and  a  sword,  whicli  once  belonged  to  Shakespeare. 
Autograph  sentiments,  written  by  Washington  Irving, 
by  Lucien  Bonaparte,  and  others,  are  also  to  be  seen.. 
Visitors  register  their  names.  The  old  visitors'  books 
are  most  curious.  The  first  one,  beginning  in  1812, 
may  be  seen  at  Mrs.  James's,  near  the  Town  Hall,  in 
High-St.  (Admission  to  Shakespeare's  birthplace,  6d. 
House  open  daily,  9-7.)  The  pilgrim  should  now  come 
to  New  Place,  where  Shakespeare  lived  during  his 
prosperous  latter  years,  and  where  lie  died  C1616).     It 


ENGLAND.  121 

Is  to-day  merely  a  well-kept  lawn.  The  house  is 
gone.  Opposite  is  the  Guild  Chapel,  founded  in  1269; 
chancel  rebuilt  about  1450.  In  the  second  story  of 
the  adjacent  Guild  Hall  is  the  Grammar  School, 
where  Shakespeare  was  one  of  the  pupils.  Visit  one 
or  both  of  the  celebrated  inns,  the  Red  Horse  and 
the  Shakespeare;  the  former,  where  you  can  lunch 
before  returning  to  Warwick,  is  a  plain,  unromantic- 
looking  house,  rendered  interesting  by  the  genius  of 
Washington  Irving.  There  Americans  are  shown  the 
room  where  he  stayed;  a  chair,  with  his  name  en- 
graved on  a  brass  plate ;  the  poker  with  which  he 
poked  the  fire,  etc. 

From  Warwick  go  by  rly.  (2M.)  to  Leamington 
{Manor  House  Hotel),  a  famous  watering-place,  with 
sulphuretted  saline  springs.  The  most  important 
building  is  the  Hoyal  Pump  Room  and  Baths. 

You  may  go  directly  from  Warwick  to  London 
(fares,  15s.  6d.,  lls.lOd.,  8s.  6d.;  time,  3  hrs. ;  distance, 
97f  M.).  Oxford  may  be  visited  on  the  way;  but  we 
recommend  you  to  go  to  Rugby,  Peterborough,  Ely, 
Cambridge,  and  ISTorthampton ;  then  from  Bedford  to 
Oxford  and  London.     You  will  pass  through 

Rugby  {Royal  George  Hotel;  Eagle;  Three  Horse- 
shoes),  Dickens's  Mughg  Junction,  famous  by  its 
Grammar  School,  founded  in  1567.  Here  the  cele- 
brated Dr.  Arnold  was  head  master ;  and  the  readers 
of  Tom  Broivn  will  perhaps  wish  to  visit  the  school. 
Close  by  is  Castle  Mount,  where  a  stronghold  stood 
in  the  time  of  King  Stephen.  1^  M.  out  is  Bilton 
Hall,  where  Addison  lived.  In  the  garden  is  Ad- 
dison's favorite  walk.  After  leaving  Rugby  you 
soon  reach 

Peterborough  {Great  Northern;  Grand;  Angel; 
Bull)  anciently  called  Medeshamstede,  and  deriving 
its  origin  from  a  noted  Benedictine  Abbey,  estab- 
lished in  655,  shortly  after  the  Saxons  had  become 


122  PETERBOROUGH. 

Christianized.  The  Danes  destroyed  this  abbey  (807^, 
and  it  was  restored  in  966.  Then  the  town  was 
named  after  the  saint  to  whom  it  was  dedicated.  The 
abbey,  when  Henry  VIII.  dissolved  the  religious 
bodies,  was  one  of  the  most  magnificent  in  the  king- 
dom, and  was  selected  as  the  see  of  one  of  the  new 
bishoprics.  The  monastic  buildings  suffered  cruelly 
during  the  civil  wars;  and  the  cathedral  itself  was 
sadly  defaced.  It  is  said  that  Henry  VIII.  spared 
Peterborough  Abbey  because  Catherine  of  Aragon  lay 
buried  within  its  enclosure.  It  is  a  noble  Norman 
structure,  471  ft.  long  and  180  ft.  wide.  Mary, 
Queen  of  Scots,  once  reposed  here.  The  cloisters  are 
in  excellent  preservation.  At  the  W.  end  of  the 
cathedral  is  a  line  court,  on  the  S.  side  of  which  a 
range  of  the  old  monastic  structures  is  still  erect. 
The  W.  front  (built  1350),  3  vast  open  arches,  has 
been  called  "the  grandest  portico  in  Europe."  See 
the  noble  old  oaken  roof,  the  carved  oaken  screen,  the 
Lady  Chapel,  the  venerable  font.  Hawthorne  said: 
*'  Of  all  the  lovely  closes  that  I  ever  beheld,  that  of 
Peterborough  Cathedral  is  the  most  delightful,  —  so 
quiet,  so  solemnly  and  nobly  cheerful."  Most  of  the 
beautiful  glass  and  all  the  records  in  the  cathedral 
were  destroyed  by  Cromwell's  soldiers.  The  E.  end 
was  burned  in  1438.  In  the  Ch.  of  St.  John  the  Bap- 
tist  there  are  some  exquisite  figures  by  Elaxman. 
Peterborough  has  a  large  trade  in  corn,  coal,  etc.  2 
M.  out  is  Milton  Park,  the  seat  of  Earl  Eitzwilliam. 
9  M.  distant  is  Castor,  with  a  perfectly  preserved 
Roman  fortress.  21  M.  away  is  Fotheringhay,  with 
a  splendid  ruined  ch.,  and  the  ruins  of  the  old  Plan- 
tagenet  castle  in  which  Mary,  Queen  of  Scots,  was 
put  to  death.  Erom  Peterborough  it  is  30  M.  (fares, 
6s.  3d.,  5s.,  2s.  5|d.)  to 


ENGLAND.  123 

Ely  (Lamh  Inn;  Bell).  The  Isle  of  Ely  is  a  tract 
of  high  land,  amid  the  fens;  and  here  a 'monastery 
was  founded  by  St.  Etheldreda  (673).  A  charter  was 
granted  by  Edg-ar,  confirmed  by  Canute,  Edward  the 
Confessor  and  the  Pope.  The  isle  made  an  excellent 
defence  against  William  the  Conqueror.  The  cathe- 
dral was  founded  about  1082.  The  stalls  are  remark- 
able specimens  of  wood-carving.  The  Galilee  is  a 
beautiful  porch.  The  Central  Octagon  is  a  superb 
Grothic  d,ome,  with  exquisite  details.  Note  the  new 
oak  screen,  with  brass  gates ;  the  rich  marble  carvings 
in  the  Choir;  the  Stalls;  Bishop  Alcock's  Chapel; 
Prior  Crandene's  Cliapel;  and  the  ancient  .S^'sAo^'s: 
Palace.  There  is  a  Parle  S.  of  the  Cathedral.  The 
Lady  Chapel  was  begun  in  the  reign  of  Edward  II., 
and  is  considered  one  of  the  most  perfect  buildings 
of  its  kind,  Ely  Cathedral  is  the  longest  Gothic 
cathedral  (but  one)  in  Europe  (537  ft.).  The  W, 
tower  is  266  ft.  high.  For  technical  description  see 
King's  Hand-Booh  of  English  Cathedrals,  which,  is 
an  excellent  companion  in  these  ancient  towns. 
From  Ely  proceed  to 

Cambridge  {University  Arms;  Red  Lion;  Bull; 
Hoop;  Sirdar;  Blue  Boar),  56  T^.  from  London^ 
and  on  the  Cam,  a  narrow  stream  that  rambles  all  over 
the  town.  Tradition  gives  630  as  the  date  of  the 
foundation  of  the  University;  but  the  oldest  college^ 
Peterhouse  or  St.  Peter's,  can  only  be  referred  to  1257, 
The  public  buildings  are  the  Shire  Hall,  Town  Hall, 
University  halls  and  library,  and  Fitzwilliam  Museum. 

There  are  1 7  colleges,  in ferior  in  a  rchitectural  beauty 
to  those  of  Oxford,  though  their  associations  are  quite 
as  interesting.  Trinity  was  founded  by  Henry  VIII. 
in  1546,  and  has  3  fine  quadrangles;  a  splendid  hall 
in  the  Tudor  style;  gardens;  and  an  important  library, 
withbusts  of  Newton  and  Bacon.  Thorwaldsen's  statue 


124  CAMBRIDGE. 

of  Byron,  Newton's  telescope,  some  of  John  Miitou-s 
MSS.,  etc.  Christ's  College,  founded  in  1442,  was 
Milton's  college.  In  the  gardens  is  Milton  s  Mulberry^ 
Tree.  The  quadrangle  was  rebuilt  by^Jnigo  Jones. 
Jesus  College  (1496)  and  Chapel  are  very  fine  build- 
ings, on  the  site  of  a  Benedictine  nunnery.  Caius 
(pronounced  Kees)  was  founded  in  1384,  and  enlarged 
in  1557  by  Dr.  Caius,  physician  to  Queen  Mary.  Re- 
built lately,  it  is  now  one  of  the  best.  Corpus 
Christ!  (1351)  contains  curious  portraits^  especially 
those  of  Sir  Thomas  More,  Wolsey,  Erasmus,  and 
Foxe,  the  author  of  the  Book  of  Martyrs.  King's 
College  (1441),  founded  by  Henry  VI.,  is  the  finest 
t)uilding  in  the  University.  The  chapel  is  the  finest 
specimen  of  perpendicular  Gothic  existing.  The 
roof,  unsupported  by  pillars,  contains  12  divisions  of 
exquisite  lace-work  tracery  in  stone.  The  24  stained- 
glass  windows,  each  50  ft.  high,  are  beautiful.  The 
music  is  exceptionally  fine.  The  visitor  should  go  to 
the  Sunday  service,  St.  John's,  founded  by  Mar- 
'garet,  the  mother  of  Henry  VII.,  in  1511,  has  4  quad- 
rangles, a  beautiful  chapel,  and  a  rare  old  library.  See 
also  Emmanuel,  1584  (whose  graduates  founded  New 
England);  St.  Catherhie's  (1475);  Clare  (1326); 
Downing  (1807)  ;  Pembroke  (1347) ;  Sidney  Sussex 
(1596);  Magdalene  (1519)  ;  Trimtu  Hall  (1347). 

The  most  striking  part  of  Cambridge  is  "the  Backs," 
where  the  college  gardens  slope  down  to  the  river, 
overhung  by  beautiful  trees  and  crossed  by  handsome 
bridges.  The  site  of  Cambridge  is  flat,  and  forms  part 
of  the  great  Fen  Level. 

•  Not  far  from  Cambridge  is  Newmarket,  the  fa- 
mous turf  resort,  which  became  popular  in  the  days  of 
James  I.,  who  had  a  hunting-seat  here.  Near  by  is 
Bury  St.  Edmunds,  where  an  abbey  (whose  noble 


ENGLAND.  125 

ruins  remain)  was  founded  by  Canute  to  commemorate 
the  martyrdom  of  Edmond.     We  proceed  next  to 

Bedford  {Swan;  Embankment;  George;  Red  Lion)^ 
once  the  tome  of  John  Bunyan.  His  chair,  in 
Bunyan  Meeting,  Mill-St.,  may  still  be  seen  ;  and 
Bedford  Jail,  where  he  wrote  a  portion  of  The 
Pilgrim's  Progress,  still  exists.  Bun^^^an's  birthplace 
was  Elstoio,  1  M.  from  Bedford  ;  and  there  his  cot- 
tage and  forge  are  shown.  Also  a  noble  abbey-ch. 
See  the  fine  statue  of  Bunyan,  preaching,  and  hold- 
ing  the  Bible.  This  stands  on  St.  Peters  Green. 
Scenes  from  Tlie  Pilgrim's  Progress  on  pedestal.  The 
Duke  of  Bedford  gave  this  statue  to  the  town.  Th& 
philanthropist  Howard  was  born  at  Cardington,  2  M. 
distant.  The  Sioan  Inn  occupies  the  site  of  the  old 
castle,  destroyed  in  the  reign  of  Henry  III.  From 
Bedford  it  is  but  a  very  short  journey  to 

Northampton  {Angel  Hotel;  George;  PlougTi), 
the  seat  of  the  boot  and  shoe  manufacture  (70,000 
inliab.).  20  Parliaments  were  held  here  between  the 
the  12th  and  14tli  centuries ;  and  on  one  occasion  the 
University  was  ti-ansferred  hither  from  Oxford.  The 
Castle,  with  the  exception  of  one  tower,  was  demol- 
ished in  1662.  The  old  Hospital,  founded  in  honor  of 
Thomas  a  Becket,  is  near  the  S.  gate.  Interesting 
sights, — St.  Sepulchre  Ch.,  built  by  the  Knights  Tem- 
plar, on  the  plan  of  Christ's  Sepulchre  at  Jerusalem ; 
the  Town  Hall;  the  Shire  Hall.  Statue  by  Chantrey 
of  Spencer  Perceval  in  All  Saints'  Ch.  Queen  Eleanor's 
Cross  is  1  M.  S.  Near  this  relic  Henry  VI.  was  de- 
feated by  Warwick  in  1460,  Althor'p  Park,  seat  of 
Earl  Spencer,  with  famous  hbrary  and  picture-gallery, 
7  M.  out.     Go  by  rail  from  Bedford  via  Bletchley  to' 

Oxford  {Randolph  Hotel,  the  most  modern,  with  res- 
taurant; Clarendon;  Mitre  ^nA.  Roebuck,  in  the  centrf 


126  OXFOED. 

of  tlie  town,  first-class  ;  King's  Arms  Hotel ;  Golden 
Cross  Hotel).  The  modern  town  contains  the  County 
jail,  near  the  old  tower  of  Oxford  Castle  ;  the  Town 
Hall  J  and  the  Martyrs'  Memorial,  a  Gothic  monu- 
ment in  St.  Giles,  near  the  spot  where  Cranmer, 
Ridley,  and  Latimer  were  burnt  at  the  stake,  in 
1555-6.  Oxford  as  a  seat  of  learning  dates  from  the 
time  of  Alfred  the  Great,  or  even  eadier.  The  origi- 
nal town  was  demolished  by  the  Danes,  The  tradi- 
tions of  modern  Oxford  go  back  to  the  Conquest, 
after  which  the  monasteries  founded  there  obtained 
great  fame  for  their  learning.  The  town-plan  is  a 
cross,  4  broad  streets  converging  from  the  cardinal 
points.  The  central  point  is  called  Corfax,  a  cor- 
ruption of  Quatre  wies.  The  curve  of  High-St,, 
with  its  splendid  architectural  monuments,  makes  it 
one  of  the  finest  streets  in  Europe. 

Public  buildings  to  be  visited  :  The  Schools;  Aslimo- 
lean  Museum,  containing  the  Arundel  3Ia7'bles.  Bod- 
lean  Library,  with  its  interesting  portraits  ;  Bad- 
cliffe  Observatory ;  Taylor  Institution;  Unimrsity 
Galleries  (open  daily,  1.2-4),  containing  important 
drawings  by  Michael  Angelo  and  Raphael  ;  Univer- 
sity Museum,  a  modern  Gothic  building  in  the  Park. 
The  laboratories  are  worthy  of  notice  (open  daily, 
after  2  r.  m,).  See  the  beautiful  Ch.  of  St.  Mary/ 
University  College  was  founded,  according  to 
tradition,  in  872,  by  Alfred  the  Great ,  but  it  dates 
historically  from  1280.  Imposing  high-towered  gate- 
ways, new  library,  etc.  Balliol  was  founded  by 
John  Balliol,  and  Devorgilla,  his  wife  (parents  of 
John  Balliol,  King  of  Scotland),  in  1268.  The  build- 
ing has  been  restored,  and  new  halls  built,  ^  Merton 
(1264),  handsome  tower  and  curious  old  architecture. 
Two  quadrangles,  and  a  large  chapel.  Exeter 
(1314)5  fiiie  modern  spire  to  the  chapel  (a  copy  of  La 


ENGLAND.  127 

r^ainte  Chapelle,  at  Paris.  Very  large  buildings. 
Noted  timber  roof  in  hall.  Oriel  (1326),  wliei-e  at 
one  time  studied  Arnold,  Keble,  Newman,  Pusey, 
and  Wilberforce.  -Queen's  (1431),  with  hall  de- 
signed by  Wren,  New  College  (1380),  one  of  the 
finest  architecturally,  with  beautiful  cloisters  ;  fine 
chapel  and  splendid  choir.  Lincoln  (1427),  John 
Wesley's  college.  -All  Souls'  (1437),  fine  buildings 
in  two  quadrangles.  Magnificent  chapel,  with  rere- 
dos.  Spacious  hall.  Magdalen  (pronounce  Maud- 
len),  founded  in  1457,  with  a  beautiful  campanile, 
•cloisters,  gardens,  Addison's  walk  along  the  Clier- 
ivell.  Splendid  chapel  (famous  choral  service,  5  p.m. 
during  term).  Erasenose  (1512),  Bishop  Heber's 
college.  Corpus  Christi  (1516),  almost  unchanged 
for  300  years.  Christ  Church,  founded  by  Car- 
dinal Wolsey  (1525).  Pagade  400  ft.  long.  Attached 
to  this  foundation  is  the  Gailiedral  of  Glirut  Gh. 
(once  the  ch.  of  St.  Frideswide's  Priory).  The  great 
college  tower  contains  Great  Tom,  which  weighs 
17,000  lbs.  Fine  library  and  pictures.  Immense 
quadrangle.  Through  the  new  buildings  pass  into 
die  beautiful  Christ- Church  meadows  (50  acres  on 
the  rivers  Isis  and  Cherwell).  Trinity  (1554),  beau- 
tiful gardens  and  walks,  with  classical  tower  and 
chapel.  St,  John's  (1555),  magnificent  late  Gothic 
buildings,  and  fine  gardens.  Jesus  (1571),  fre- 
quented largely  by  Welshmen.  Fine  hall,  chapel, 
and  library.  Wadham  (1613),  beautiful  gardens. 
Fine  chapel  and  hall,  with  timber  roof.  Pembroke 
(1624),  Samuel  Johnsop's  college.  'Worcester 
(1714),  beautiful  gardens  and  lake.  Keble,  built  by 
^subscription  as  a  memorial  to  the  Eev.  John  Keble, 
in  1870. 

Oxford  to  London  by  Great  Western  Ely.,  63^  M,» 
by  N.  Western,  78  M.  (lis.,  8s.  4d,,  5s.  3d.). 


138  LONDON. 


London. 

Hotels. — Albemarle,  Avondale,  Berkeley,  Picca- 
dilly ;  Carlton,  Pall  Mall ;  Broivn's  and  St.  George's 
Hotel,  Dover-St. ;  Bristol,  Burlington  Gardens; 
Claridge's,  Buckland's,  Brook-St, ;  Windsor,  Vic- 
toria-St. ;  Buchinghain  Palace  liotel',  St.  Ermin's^ 
Caxton-St. ;  Langham,  Portland  PI. ;  Ford's,  Man- 
chester-St. ;  De  Keyser's  B.oyal,  Blackf riars  Bridge ; 
Savoy,  Cecil,  Thames  Embankment ;  Moriey's,  Tra- 
falgar Sq. ;  Curson.  ivlayfair;  Waldorf,  Aldwjch; 
Hans  Crescent  Hotel ;  South  Kensington  Hotel, 
Alexandra,  Hyde  Park  Corner;  Bailey's,  Gloucester 
Rd.;  iVbrr^Vs,*  Russell  Rd.;  Hotel  Russell,  Russell 
:Sq. ;  Inns  of  Court,  First  Avenue,  High  Holborn; 
Bedford  Head,  Tottenham  Court  Rd.  There  are 
several  good  hotels  for  men  only,  among  which  may 
be  mentioned  Jbrns^foc/j,  (movent  Garden ;  Cavendish, 
MorWs,  Brunswick,  Cox's,  British,  Jermyn  St. 
A  peculiar  institution  of  London  and  some  other 
English  towns  is  the  temperance  hotel;  of  this  class 
:are  Philip's  Cockiurn  Hotel,  Endsleigh  Gardens ; 
West  Ce7itral,  Southampton  Row ;  Shirley's,  Queen 
Sq. ;  Kingsley,  Hart  St. ;  Thackeray,  Gt.  Russell  St. 
Each  of  the  principal  railway  stations  has  a  large  and 
often  yery  good  hotel  connected  with  it ;  there  are 
the  Great  Eastern,  Liverpool  St. ;  City  Terminus 
Hotel,  Cannon  St.;  Holborn  Viaduc.t ;  Ilidland 
'Grand,  St.  Pancras  Station;  Great  Western,  Pad- 
dington  Station ;  Great  Central,  Marylebone  Station ; 
Grosvenor,  Victoria  Station;  Charing  Cross;  Great 
Northern,  King's  Cross ;  Huston,  Euston  Square.  In 
Albermarle,  New  Bond,  Dover,  Arlington,  St.  James, 
and  Clifford  Sts.  are  many  fashionable  hotels.  In  and 
around  Covent  Garden  and  the  Strand  are  many 
excellent  houses.  At  the  great  houses,  single  rooms, 
4s. -15s.  per  day;  attendance,  Is.  6cl. ;  breakfast,  2s. 
6d.-3s.  6d. ;   table  d'hote  dinner,  without  wine,  5s.; 


General  Map  of  Loudon  sliowing  Main  Streu 


rjublic  Buildin^-s,  and  Cliiet  Kaiiway  Stations 


^1 


ENGLAND  129 

luncheon  a  la  carte.  In  some  hotels  dinner  is  7s,  6d. 
to  10s.  6d.  In  hotels  of  second  order  bedrooms  cost 
2s.  6d.-6s. ;  attendance,  Is.-ls.  6d. ;  breakfast,  2s.  6d. : 
dinner,  3s. -4s.  Beware  of  ordering-  dinner  a  la  carte 
in  the  coffee-rooms :  the  bill  becomes  enormous.  If 
you  stay  more  than  3-4  days,  the  servants  who  wait 
on  you  all  expect  gratuities.  Boarding. — There  are 
several  excellent  private  boarding  establishments 
patronized  mainly  by  Americans.  Furnished  Lodg' 
ings  without  board  are  not  expensive.  Very  good 
double  bedrooms  may  be  had  for  15s. -21s.  per  week; 
breakfast  per  person,  in  the  house,  12s.  6d.-15s.  per 
week;  single  bedrooms,  8s. -14s.  per  week. 

Restaurants. — London  has  been  poor  in  these  in 
comparison  with  Paris  and  other  Continental  cities, 
but  is  no  longer  so.  We  may  mention  especially 
the  Trocadero,  Piccadilly  and  Criterion,  in  Picca- 
dilly Circus ;  Frascati's,  Oxford  St. ;  Verry  and  Bur- 
lington, Regent  St. ;  Holhorn,  Horseshoe,  Tottenham 
Court  Rd. ;  Kettner^s,  Soho ;  Dieudonne,  Ryder  St. ; 
Florence,  Rupert  St.;  Simpson^ s,  Romano's,  Gatti's, 
Tivoli  Grand,  Colonnade,  Adelphi,  in  the  Strand; 
Old  Blue  Post  Tavern,  Cook  St.,  W. ;  Prince's,  Pic- 
cadilly. In  the  City  are  the  Auction  Mart,  Token- 
house  Yard ;  London  Tavern,  Penchurch  St. ;  Pimm's, 
Poultry  St. ;  Crosby  Hall,  Bishopsgate  Within ;  Old 
Cheshire  Cheese,  Wine  Office  Court;  Sweeting, 
Cheapside.  Many  of  the  large  hotels  have  good,  but 
expensive,  tahle  d'hote  dinners. 

The  American  Ambassador  to  the  Court  of  St. 
James  is  Hon.  Whitelaw  Reid.  The  Consul-General 
of  the  U.  S.  in  London  is  Mr.  John  L.  Griffiths. 

A  Round-Trip  Omnibus  Route. — From  Trafal- 
gar Sq.  take  a  Blackwall  (blue)  omnibus  via  Charing 
Cross,  the  Strand,  Fleet  St.,  Ludgate  Hill,  Cheapside, 
the  Bank,  Cornhill,  Aldgate.  Whitechapel,  Commer- 
cial Rd.,  to  Bnrdett  Rd.  Get  down  here,  and  take 
tramway  (yellow  horse-car)  through  Victoria  Park. 
Walk  up  the  Victoria  Park  Rd..  and  at  the  end  of  the 


180  LONDONo 

road  take  the  tram  to  City  Kd.,  past  Hackney  and 
Old  St.  Rd.  City  Rd.  crosses  Old  St.  Rdo  Take  tram 
(blue)  to  Archway  Tavern  by  City  Rd.,  Liverpool  Rd. 
and  Holloway  Rd.  From  HoUoway  Rd.  a  car  may 
be  taken  via  Caledonian  Rd.  to  King's  Cross,  and 
from  King's  Cross  take  (green)  omnibus  to  The  Castle, 
Camden  Town.  Walk  to  the  Bi^itannia,  Camden 
Town,  and  take  a  (claret)  Camden  Town  omnibus  to 
Bishop's  Rd.  through  Park  St.,  St.  John's  Wood  Rd., 
past  Lords  Cricket  Ground,  Grove  Rd.,  Church  St., 
Paddington  Green.  From  where  this  omnibus  stops 
another  Tyellow)  may  be  taken  via  Edgware  Rd., 
Oxford  St.,  Holborn,  the  Viaduct,  Cheapside,  King 
William  St.  and  London  Bridge.  From  London 
Bridge  take  a  (green)  omnibus  to  the  Elephant  and 
Castle.  From  this  point  take  a  tram  to  Westminster, 
and  then  (yellow)  omnibus  to  Trafalgar  Square. 

The  Underground  Railways  are  convenient. 
The  Metropolitan  and  Metropolitan  Distinct  Rys. 
run  in  a  circle  from  Notting  Hill  Gate  to  Aldgate 
and  have  numerous  feeders  to  the  suburbs.  The 
City  a7id  South  London  Electric  Ry.,  the  Waterloo 
and  City  Ry.  and  the  Bakerloo  (Baker  St.,  Water- 
loo) pass  in  tunnels  beneath  the  Thames,  the  former 
to  Clapham  Common,  the  two  latter  to  Waterloo 
Station.  The  Central  London  Ry.,  called  popularly 
the  "  Twopenny  Tube,"  runs  in  nearly  a  straight  line 
from  the  Bank  of  England  to  Shepherd's  Bush. 
Tramways  in  outlying  districts  are  numerous  (fares 
2d.  toSd). 

Cab- fares. — Within  a  4-M.  radius,  of  which  Char- 
ing Cross  is  centre,  fares  are  regulated  thus :  for  any 
distance  under  2  M.,  Is.;  for  every  additional  M.  or 
fraction,  6d.  Within  central  part  of  London  the  or- 
dinary course  is  rarely  more  than  Is.  Taximeter  cabs 
charge  6d.  for  1st  M.  or  12  min.,  3d.  for  each  succeed- 
ing ^  M.  or  6  min.  Outside  4-M.  circle.  Is.  per  M. 
When  engaged  by  hour,  4-wheel  cabs,  locally  called 


Section  of  London,  wit 


lington  House  as  Centre. 


TUo  "  City  "  oi"  London  {The  Citi} 


ms  are  indicated  hy  the  dotted  lines). 


ENGLAND  '  131 

growlers,  inside  the  radius,  for  1  hr.  or  less,  2s.;  for 
every  additional  15  min.,  6d.  Baggage,  2d  per  pk. ; 
hansoms,  per  h.,  2s.  6d. ;  every  additional  15  min. ,  8d. 
Theatres,  etc. — The  following  are  the  principal 
theatres:  Aldwycli,  Strand;  ^IpoZZo,  Shaftesbury  Av.; 
Adelphi.  Strand;  Comedy,  Panton  St.,  Haymarket; 
Court,  Sloane  Sq. ;  Covent  Garden  (opera) ;  Criterion, 
Piccadilly  Circus;  Daly's,  Leicester  Sq. ;  Drury  Lane, 
Catherine  St.;  Duke  of  York's,  St.  Martin's  Lane; 
Garrick,  Charing  Cross  Rd. ;  The  Hicks,  Shaftes- 
bury Ave. ;  Gaiety,  Strand;  Hippodrome;  Haymar- 
Tcet;  Lyric,  Shaftesbury  Ave.;  His  Majesty's,  Hay- 
market;  Lyceum;  New  Royalty,  Dean  St.,  Shaftes- 
bury Ave. ;  New  Theatre,  St.  Martin's  Lane;  The 
Playhouse;  Prince  of  Wales',  Coventry  St. ;  Savoy, 
Strand;  Scala  Theatre,  Charlotte  St. ;  Shaftesbury, 
Shaftesbury  Ave. ;  St.  James's,  King  St. ;  Terry's, 
Strand;  iwpermZ,  Westminster;  Vaudeville,  Strand; 
Waldorf,  Aldwych;  Wyndham's,  Charing  Cross  Rd. 
The  E.  End  theatres,  of  which  there  are  several,  are 
worth  a  visit,  to  get  an  idea  of  how  the  lower  classes 
take  their  amusement.  Music-halls  abound.  The  best 
are:  The  Oxford,  in  Oxford  St.;  the  ^Z/iam&ra  and 
the  Empire,  Leicester  Sq. ;  the  Metropolitan,  Edge- 
ware  Rd. ;  the  Palace,  Shaftesbury  Ave. ;  the  Tivoli, 
Strand;  and  the  Pavilion^  in  Piccadilly  Circus.  The 
Aquarium,  at  Westminster,  gives  varied  entertain- 
ments. Visitors  in  winter  will  find  the  best  panto- 
mimes at  Drury  Lane  and  Covent  Garden.  In  South 
London  is  the  Surrey  Tlieutre,  in  Blackfriars  Road, 
which  was  at  first  a  circus  and  later,  after  being  re- 
built, the  home  of  the  legitimate  Drama.  Promenade 
concerts  iire  held  in  Aug.  and  Sept.,  at  Covent  Gar- 
den; good  concerts,  with  ballad  singing,  are  plenty 
during  the  season  at  St.  James's  Hall  and  the  Royal 


133        LONDON-ST.  PAUL'S  CATHEDRAL. 

Albert  Hall.    The  latter   has  celebrated  organ  of 
10,000  pipes  and  130  stops. 

Museums. — The  British  Museum,  Great  Russell 
St.;  see  p.  147.  Bethnal  Green  Museum,  Cambridge 
Rd. ;  paintings,  food  products,  British  butterflies, etc. ; 
Wed.  6d.,  other  days  free.  Geological,  Jeremyn  St.; 
10  till  dusk;  free  on  introduction  by  a  member. 
Natural  History,  South  Kensington;  10  till  dusk; 
free.  South  Kensington,  see  p.  149.  Sir  John 
Soane's,  13  Lincoln's  Inn  Fields;  antiquities;  10  till 
dusk,  free  on  application.  United  Service,  Whitehall 
Yard;  war  relics,  model  of  Battle  of  Waterloo,  etc.; 
admission  (except  Wed.)  6d.  Indian,  S.  Kensington; 
free.  J.rc/w7ec^wre,  Tufton  St.;  free;  Atitiquarian,.^. 
Burlington  House;  free  on  application  to  secretary.  •■  j 
Guildhall,  King  St.;  London  antiquities;  free.  Bo- 
tanical, Regent's  Park;  free  on  order  from  one  of  the 
Fellows.  Linnman,  Burlington  House;  free  on 
Member's  order.  Royal  College  of  Surgeons,  Lin- 
coln's Inn  Fields;  anatomical  and  pathological  speci- 
mens. The  Wallace  Collection  of  paintings,  furni- 
ture, ceramics,  armor,  etc.,  is  in  Hertford  House, 
Manchester  Square.  Mme.  Tussaud's  Waxworks 
are  in  the  Marylebone  Road  (daily,  11-6,  Is.),  with 
200  figures  of  celebrities. 

The  City  lies  between  Temple  Bar  (W)  and  Aid- 
gate  (E),  the  Thames  (S)  and  Smithfield  and  Fins- 
bury  Circus  (N),  and  has  about  60,000  inhab.  and 
the  great  offices,  warehouses,  etc.  Westminster  lies 
between  the  city  and  Chelsea,  Oxford  St.  and  the 
Thames,  and  has  the  chief  palaces  and  modern 
streets.  There  are  also  eight  boroughs,  and  scores  of 
annexed  villages,  in  the  "  Metropolitan  District," 
which  covers  690  square  M.,  having  6,600  M.  of 
streets,  and  550,000  buildings. 

St.  Paul's  Cathedral  was  built  by  Wren  in  1675- 
1710,  on  a  site  before  occupied  by  a  temple  of  Diana, 
a  Roman  British  ch.,  and  King  Ethelbert's  ch.,  built 


ENGLAND.  133 

in  610  and  uestroyed  in  1666.  Here  King  John  yielded 
to  the  Pope  (in  1213) ;  Wyckliffe  was  cited  for  heresy 
(1337) ;  and  Tyndale's  New  Testament  was  burned 
(1537).  St.  Paul's  is  a  Latin  Cross,  with  nave  500  X 
118  ft. ;  transepts,  250  ft.  long;  inner  dome,  225  ft. 
high  ;  and  height  to  top  of  cross,  404  ft.  St.  Peter's 
and  Milan  and  Seville  Cathedrals  are  larger.  It  is 
open  from  10  a.  m.  to  dark.  Services  at  8  and  10  A. 
M.,  and  4  and  8  p.  m.  Fee  at  Crypt,  6d.;  Whisper- 
ing and  Stone  Galleries,  6d.;  Library,  6d.;  Ball,  Is. 
6d.  The  W.  front  is  flanked  by  high  campaniles. 
The  interior  is  vast,  but  bare.  See  organ  and  wood 
carvings  in  the  choir,  and  monuments  of  Howard, 
the  philanthropist ;  Donne,  the  poet-dean  ;  Dean 
Milman  ;  Bishop  Heber  ;  Dr.  Johnson  ;  Hallam,  the 
historian  ;  Lord  Nelson  ;  Gen.  Pakenham  ;  Sir  John 
Moore  ;  Lord  Rodney,  etc.  In  the  crypt  are  the 
porphyry  and  marble  sarcophagi  of  "Wellington,  Nel 
son,  and  Collingwood  ;  Wellington's  hearse  ;  and  the 
tombs  of  the  artists  Reynolds,  West,  Lawrence,  Tur« 
ner,  Fuseli,  and  Barry.  From  the  S.  aisle,  ascend  to 
Library  (10,000  vols.),  WJdsjjering  Oallery,  Stone 
Gallery,  and  Ball.  Hare  speaks  of  St.  Paul's  as 
"sublimely  grandiose,  with  a  sooty  dignity  all  its 
own  " ;  and  Hawthorne  found  it  * '  unspeakably  grand 

and  noble It  would  not  be  nearly  so  grand 

without  this  drapery  of  black." 

Paternoster  Row,  famous  for  books,  is  N.  of  the 
Cathedral  ;  and  S.  are  the  Beanery,  Choristers'  School, 
and  Herald's  College.  Down  the  Row  is  Waricick  Lane, 
once  the  haunt  of  Lord  Warwick,  the  king-maker. 
The  General  Post-OfEce  and  Telegraph  Office  are 
immense  buildings  near  by,  nearly  hiding  St.  Vedasfs 
Ch.,  one  of  Wren's  masterpieces.  The  wealthy 
Christ's  Hospital,  founded  hy  Edward  VI.,  on  the 
site  of  a  Greyfriars'  convent,  has  1,200  blue- robed 
pupils;  Richardson, Coleridge,  Lamb,  and  Leigh  Hunt 
were  educated  hei-A.     Ne^wgate,  a  famous  prison 


134  NEWGATE.  —  GUILDHALL. 

where  Jack  Sheppard,  Titus  Gates,  Wm.  Penn,  and 
Daniel  Defoe  were  confined,  is  in  the  Old  Bailey, 
reached  from  Ludgate  Hill.  N.  of  Christ's  is  iSt. 
Bartliolomeiv''s  Hospital^  a  great  quadrangle 
founded  as  a  priory  in  1102,  and  converted  into 
a  hospital  by  Henry  VIII.  In  the  Great  Hall 
are  paintings  by  Hogarth,  Lawrence,  Keynolds, 
etc.  The  grand  Norman  Ch.  dates  from  1102,  and 
has  rare  monuments.  The  vast  adjacent  Smith- 
field  Market  (3  1-2  acres  under  roof)  occupies  the 
ground  once  used  for  the  revels,  miracle-plays,  and 
tournaments  of  Bartholomew  Fair,  and  later  for 
the  martyrdoms  under  Bloody  Mary  and  Elizabeth. 
Here,  also,  Wat  Tyler  and  Sir  Wm.  Wallace  were 
put  to  death.  ISTewgate-St.  leads  to  the  noble  Hol- 
toorn  Viaduct,  spanning  a  deep  valley,  at  one  end 
of  which  is  >S'^.  Bepulclire' s  Gli.  (John  Rogers  was 
its  rector),  containing  the  tomb  of  Captain  John 
Smith.  Near  Smithfield  is  the  picturesque  Char- 
terliouse,  a  rich  school  and  asylum  on  the  site  of  a 
Carthusian  convent  (1371).  Among  the  pupils  here 
were  Steele,  Addison,  Blackstone,  Wesley,  Grote, 
Lovelace,  Barrow,  Eastlake,  John  Leech,  Thirl  wall, 
Thackeray,  and  Havelock.  See  the  Elizabethan 
Great  Chamber ;  cloisters,  chapel,  and  pictures  in 
the  Master'' s  Lodge ;  also,  in  adjacent  Bunhill 
Fields,  tombs  of  Bunyan,  Defoe,  and  Dr.  Watts  ; 
and,  in  St.  John's  Lane,  Clerkenwell,  the  rare  old 
Bt.  John's  Gate,  built  in  1504.  The  Guildhall, 
originally  built  1411-31,  but  almost  entirely  de- 
.stroyed  in  the  Great  Fire  of  1666,  has  the  inuni- 
cipal  offices,  a  Gothic  Library,  a  museum  (Ro- 
man antiques,  etc.),  a  beautiful  crypt,  a'^d  fine 
portraits.  The  Great  Hall,  153  x  50  feb.,  has 
a  noble  timber  roof,  stained  windows,   and  the 


ENGL  AM).  135 

wooden  giants,   Gog  and    Magog.      GresJiam   Col- 
hge  (1579)  and  Goldsmiths'  Hall  are  close  by. 

Cheapside  is  a  busy  street,  with  handsome  shops, 
from  whicli  run  Bread-St., where  Milton  was  born,  and 
Milk-St.,  where  Sir  Thomas  More  was  born  and  on 
whicli  stood  the  Mermaid  Inn,  beloved  by  Shakes- 
peare, Ben  Jonson,  Beaumont  and  Fletcher,  Donne, 
etc.  Bow  Ch.,  built  by  Wren,  rises  over  a  Norman 
crypt,  and  is  crowned  by  a  great  dragon,  on  a  tower 
235  ft.  high.  Whoever  is  born  within  sound  of  its 
bells  is  a  "  cockney."  Mercers'  Hall,  with  its  rich  pil- 
lared  court,  is  on  the  site  of  Thomas  ^  Becket's 
birthplace  (1119).  The  Grocers'  and  Armorers'  (fine 
hall  and  rich  armor)  Halls  are  farther  on.  The  Man- 
sion House  (1739-1753),  and  famous  for  the  Egyp- 
tian Hall,  is  the  palace  of  the  Lord  Mayor.  The 
costly  new  Queen  Victoria-St.  leads  thence,  by 
Apothecaries'  Hall  and  The  Times  Office,  to  Black- 
friars  Bridge  (|^M.).  Opposite  the  Mansion  House 
Is  the  low,  massive,  and  broad-based  Bank  of  Eng- 
land,  which  keeps  $75-100,000,000  in  coin  in  its 
vaults.  The  splendid  Royal  Exchange,  with  its 
rich  carvings,  Corinthian  colonnades,  and  campanile, 
and  the  Stock  Exchange,  are  near  by.  Statues  of 
Wellington  and  Peabody,  near  Exchange ;  also 
Crosby  Hall,  built  in  1466  ;  and  St.  Helen's  Ch. ,  of 
the  12th  century.  In  Cornhill,  Gray,  the  poet,  was 
born.  St.  Michael's  Ch.  w^as  built  by  Wren,  and  St. 
Catherine  Cree  by  Inigo  Jones.  Lombard-St.  is  the 
Wall-St.  of  London  ;  Mincing  Lane,  the  headquar- 
ters of  colonial  trade  ;  Mark  Lane,  the  grain  mar- 
ket. In  St.  Olave's  Ch.  is  the  tomb  of  Pex)ys  ;  and  in 
Trinity  Ch.  (formerly  a  Minorite  nunnery)  is  the 
Duke  of  Suffolk's  head.  St.  Stcithin's  '  Ch.  has  the 
famous  London  stone,  a  Roman  milliarium,  built 
into  its  wall.  The  venerable  St.  Saviour's  Ch.  is 
over  London  Bridge,  and  has  a  beautiful  Lady  Chapgl 


136  THE  TOWER. 

and  Choir,  and  t  ombs  of  Massinger,  Fletcher,  Gow- 
er,  and  Shakespeare's  brother.  Beyond  is  the  an- 
cient Guy's  Hospital,  in  whose  ch.  Astley  Cooper 
is  buried.  King-  Willimn-Bt.  runs  from  the  Bank, 
by  St.  Mary  Woolnotfi's  Ch.  and  the  site  of  Fal- 
stafii's  Boafs  Head  Tavern,  to  London  Bridge, 
928  ft.  long,  built  in  1825-31,  at  a  cost  of  $10,- 
000,000,  on  5  granite  arches.  20,000  carriages  and 
100,000  pedestrians  cross  it  daily.  The  Romans 
and  the  Saxons  had  bridges  here.  The  Monu- 
ment, 202  ft.  high,  built  by  Wren  in  1671-77  to 
commemorate  the  Great  Fire  of  1666  (which  de- 
stroyed 1357,000,000  of  property)  is  close  by.  Fine 
■view  from  its  top  (fee,  3d.).  Thames-8t.  was  Chau- 
cer's home,  1379-85.  St.  Magnus  the  Martyr,  one 
of  Wren's  Chs.,  has  Miles  Coverdale's  tomb. 
Farther  E.  is  Billingsgate,  the  famous  fish-market, 
The  Custom  House  is  490  ft.  long,  on  a  quay  be^ 
side  the  Thames. 

The  Tower  is  "  historically  the  most  interest^ 
ing  spot  in  England"  (open  daily,  10-4,  6d.;  Mon. 
and  Sat. ,  free).  A  stone  bridge  leads  to  the  Outer 
Bail ;  and  the  Bell  Tower  and  Traitors'  Gate  are 
passed  on  the  way  to  the  Inner  Bail,  in  which  rises 
the  famous  White  Tower,  built  by  William  the 
Conqueror,  on  the  site  of  a  Roman  fort.  It  is  96 
X  116  ft.  in  area,  and  95  ft.  high,  with  turreted 
walls  12  ft.  thick.  Here  Richard  II .  abdicated  his 
throne  (1399),  and  James  I.  of  Scotland  was  im- 
mured. The  beautiful  Norman  Chapel  of  St.  John 
is  here  ;  also  the  Council  Chamber  and  Banqueting 
Hall.  Among  the  prisoners  of  the  Tower  have  been 
King  John  of  France,  King  David  Bruce  of  Scot- 
land, the  Dukes  of  Orleans  and  Marlborough,  Wil- 
liam Wallace,  Archbishop  Cranmer,  Lord  Straf- 
ford, and  William  Lord  Russell.     Outside  is  a  col- 


ENGLAND.  137 

Election  of  ancient  cannon ;  and  the  Horse  Armoury^  full 
of  trophies,  ancient  armor  of  all  nations,  and  22  eques* 
trian  figures  in  full  English,  Burgundian,  and  German 
armor,  of  dates  from  1272  to  1688,  and  once  worn  by 
princes  and  nobles.  Upstairs  are  trophies  from  Quebec, 
Malta,  India,  New  Zealand,  etc.  Qtieen  ElizaheWs 
Armoury  contains  weapons  of  the  Elizabethan  age,  the 
block  on  which  Lord  Lovat  was  decapitated,  and  the 
axe  which  struck  off  the  Earl  of  Essex's  head.  Ad' 
jacent  is  the  10  X  8  cell  in  which  Sir  lYalter  Ealeigh 
was  confined,  1603-16.  The  Bloody  Tower  was  that  m 
which  the  sons  of  Edward  IV.  were  murdered ;  Lord 
Dudley  was  imprisoned  in  the  Beauchamp  Totoer;  Prin- 
cess Elizabeth,  in  the  Bell  Tower  ;  Lady  Jane  Grey,  in  the 
Brick  Tower.  The  Duke  of  Clarence  was  put  to  death 
in  the  Bowyer  Tower;  and  Henry  VI.  in  Wakefeld  Tower, 
In  the  Jewel  House  are  the  Crown  Jewels.^  valued 
at  $15,000,000:  8t.  Edward's  crown;  Victoria's  crown, 
with  2,783  diamonds,  and  a  wonderful  sapphire  and 
ruby  (it  cost  ^560,000);  several  other  crowns;  the 
royal  sceptre,  and  other  sceptres  and  orbs ;  the  Koh-i- 
Noor  diamond ;  etc.  In  the  cemetery  attached  to  the 
ancient  chapel  of  St.  Peter  ad  Vmcula  are  the  remains 
of  Anne  Boleyn,  Sir  Thomas  More,  two  Earls  of  Essex, 
Lord  Somerset,  Lady  Jane  Grey,  the  Dukes  of  North- 
umberland and  Monmouth,  and  other  noble  victims. 
On  Tower  Hill  stand  Trinity  House,  whose  brethren 
care  for  the  British  lighthouses  and  buoys,  and  the 
Royal  Mint.  William  Penn  was  born  on  Tower  Hill ; 
and  the  poet  Otway  died  there.  St.  Katherines  and 
London  Docks  are  E.  of  the  Tower,  with  vast  crowded 
warehouses.  London  Docks  cover  120  acres,  and  cost 
$20,000,000.  Earther  down  are  other  vast  docks,  the 
largest  in  the  world.  N.  W.  of  the  Tower  are  Bethnal 
Green  Museum  and  Victoria  Bark.  In  the  Swedish  Ch 
at  Shadwell,  Swedenborg  is  buried. 


138  FLEET-STKEET. — THE  TEMPLE. 

Blackfriars  Bridge,  1,272  ft.  long,  on  gtanite  piers, 
is  named  from  a  monastery  formerly  hard  by,  founded 
in  1276,  and  where  Cardinal  Wolsey  divorced  Katherine 
of  Aragon  from  Henry  VIII.  Shakespeare  and  Bei? 
Jonson  formerly  lived  at  Blackfriars.  The  Victoria 
Embankment  runs  along  tlie  N.  bank  of  the  Thames, 
from  Blackfriars  to  Westminster  Bridge,  1-|  M,,  occu- 
pied by  a  roa^  and  walks  100  ft.  wide.  This  work  was 
done,  1864-70,  at  a  cost  of  $10,000,000.  It  is  adorned 
with  trees  and  gardens,  and  statues  of  Mill,  Outram, 
and  Brunei,  Here  also  stands  Cleopatra's  Needle,  the 
great  Egyptian  obelisk.  See  also  the  ancient  Water- 
gate of  York  House,  built  by  Inigo  Jones.  On  the  site 
of  Durham  House  is  the  Adelphi  Terrace,  where  King 
Kamehameha  II.  and  David  Garrick  died. 

Fleet-St.  runs  from  near  St.  Paul's  to  the  Strand, 
passing  Congregational  Memorial  Hall,  on.  the  site 
of  Fleet  Prison,  made  famous  by  Dickens ;  the  office  of 
Vunch;  St.  Bride's  Ch.,  built  by  Wren,  near  site  of 
Bridewell  Prison,  with  tomb  of  Richardson  the  nov-. 
elist;  Bolt  Court,  where  Dr.  Johnson  lived  (1776- 
81)  and  died,  and  Cobbett  labored;  Cheshire  Cheese 
hm,  frequented  by  Johnson,  Boswell,  and  Goldsmith ; 
Whitefriars,  on  the  site  of  an  ancient  Carmelite  monas- 
tery; Alsatia  (down  Bouverie-St.),  the  home  of  rogues, 
described  in  Scott's  Fortunes  of  Nigel ;  the  site  of 
Izaak  Walton's  hosiery-shop,  1621-43  ;  the  Gothic  CJ^. 
of  St.  Dunstan  in  the  West ;  Mitre  Cotirt,  and  its  famous 
old  inn ;  and  the  Neio  Record  Office  (open  10-1),  a  stately 
Tudor  building,  coutainmg  the  Domesday  Book.  The 
Temple  was  founded  by  the  Knights  Templar  in  1184, 
and  reverted  to  the  Crown  on  their  dissolution,  in  1313. 
In  1346  it  was  leased  to  the  law  schools,  which  have 
ever  since  occupied  it.  The  buildings  extend  -Crom 
Fleet-St.  to  the  famous   Tem])le   Gardens^  where    the 


ENGLAND.  139 

iVar  of  the  Roses  broke  out.  The  Middle  Temple  has 
a  splendid  Elizabethan  Gothic  hall  (built  1572),  with 
dark  oaken  ceiling  and  princely  portraits.  Dr.  John- 
son, Chaucer,  Blackstone,  Lamb,  and  Oliver  Goldsmith 
lived  in  the  Middle  Temple ;  and  the  lattei'  is  buried  in 
the  yard  of  the  very  beautiful  Temple  Ch.  (open  10-12, 
1-4  daily),  built  in  1185-1240,  which  has  quaint 
old  Templars'  monuments,  rich  stained  windows,  and 
polished  pillars  of  Purbeck  marble.  Nearly  opposite , 
across  Fleet-St.,  are  the  vast  and  superb  new  Law 
Courts,  in  Gothic  architecture,  which  have  cost  over 
^5,000,000.  Farther  N.  is  the  famous  Lincoln's  Inn» 
the  home  of  lawyers,  with  a  great  library,  a  quaint 
chapel  built  by  Inigo  Jones,  and  a  handsome  Tudor 
diuins^-hall.  Pitt,  More,  and  Brougham  long  lived  here. 
In  Lincoln's  Inn  Fields  is  the  lioyal  College  of  Sur- 
geons, with  a  vast  museum  ;  near  by  is  the  Soane 
MuseiLm,  with  rare  MSS.  and  early  books,  antique 
gems,  mediteval  and  Renaissance  curiosities,  and 
paintings  by  Hogarth,  Turner,  Eastlake,  Reynolds. 
Gray's  Inn,  on  the  IST.  side  of  Ilolborn,  has  been  a 
law  school  since  1371.  Bacon  was  a  member  here. 
Reyond  the  monument  on  the  site  of  Temple  Bar 
(built  in  1670  ;  taken  down  1878),  Fleet-St.  is  con- 
tinued as  the  Strand,  connecting  the  city  and  the 
W".  End.  St.  Clement  Danes  Ch.  stands  over  the 
tombs  of  Harold  Harefoot  and  other  Danish  war- 
riors. Dr.  Johnson  used  to  worship  here  ;  Joe 
Miller  and  the  poet  Otway  are  buried  in  the  ch.- 
yard.  Hard  by  is  Clement's  Inn,  sacred  to  law- 
yers, and  often  mentioned  by  Shakespeare.  Essex, 
Arusiel,  Norfolk,  and  Surrey-Sts.,  named  from 
the  jMilaces  of  the  great  nobles  formerly  there- 
abouts, diverge  to  the  Embankment,  In  the  latter 
lived  Congreve  and  Sale  ;    Peter  the  Great  lived  in 


140   WATERLOO  BRIDGE-COVENT  GARDEN 

Buckin^ham-St.  Thomas  a  Becket  was  priest  of  the 
Ch.  of  St.  Mary  le  Strand.  Voltaire  lived  in  Maiden 
Lane.  Somerset  House  is  a  vast  Government  build- 
ing, on  the  site  of  the  Lord  Protector's  Palace,  with  a 
splendid  front  towards  the  Thames.  Here  may  be 
seen  (10-3  dally)  the  wills  of  Holbein,  Shakespeare, 
Van  Dyck,  Newton,  Dr.  Johnson,  and  Napoleon  I. 
Waterloo  Bridge  was  built  at  a  cost  of  $5,000,000. 
Exeter  Hall  stands  in  this  region  of  theatres,  and  is  a 
famous  centre  of  religious  movements.  The  Chapel 
Royal,  Savoy,  a  Gothic  ch.,  with  ancient  tombs,  is  ia 
Savoy-St..  It  was  built  in  1505,  on  the  site  of  the 
Savoy  Palace,  given  by  Henry  III.  to  Peter  of  Savoy ; 
owned  by  John  of  Gaunt ;  destroyed  by  Wat  Tyler's 
mob  ;  and  replaced  by  Henry  VII.  with  a  hospital.  In 
the  Palace,  Chaucer  wrote  several  poems  ;  and  there 
King  John  of  France  died.  To  the  N.  is  Covent 
Garden,  the  chief  fruit,  flower,  and  vegetable  market 
of  London  (visit  before  7  a.m.,  Tues.,  Thurs.,  or  Sat.), 
on  site  of  convent  gardens  granted  to  the  Dukes  of 
Bedford  in  1551,  and  still  held  by  them.  Here  lived- 
Sir  Kenelm  Digby,  Bishop  Berjieley,  Lord  Crewe,  Sir 
Godfrey  Kneller,  etc. ;  and  the  poet  Marvell  and  the 
painter  Turner  dwelt  in  Maideti  Lane.  Inigo  Jones 
built  Si.  Pa  fir  s  Ch.,  in  whose  yard  Samuel  Butler 
C'Hudibras"),  Sir  Peter  Lely,  "  Peter  Pindar,"  the 
dramatist  Wycherley,  and  the  famous  wood-carver  Grin- 
ling  Gibbons,  are  buried.  The  Royal  Italian  Opera-House 
is  in  Covent  Garden;  and  near  it  is  the  Floral  Hall. 
A-t  Charing  Cross  is  a  modern  copy  of  a  cross 
erected  near  its  site  by  Edward  I.,  in  1201.  There 
is  an  ancient  equestrian  statue  of  Charles  I.  at 
Charing  Cross.  "The  full  tide  of  existence  is  at 
Charing  Cross,"  said  Dr.  Johnson.  Harry  Vane. 
Barrow,  and  Johnson  lived  hereabouts. 


ENGLAND.  141 

The  splendid  Trafalgar  Square  contains  a  col- 
umn 177  ft.  high,  with  a  colossal  statue  of  Nelson, 
and  colossal  lions  designed  by  Landseer ;  also 
statues  of  Gordon,  Havelock,  George  IV,  and  Sir 
Charles  Napier,  On  one  side  stood  Nm^thuniberm 
land  House,  the  palace  of  the  Percies,  bought  by 
the  Board  of  Works  for  $2,500,000,  and  demolished 
in  1874.  On  part  of  its  site  stands  the  Grand  Ho- 
tel. The  Gil.  of  St.  Martin  in  the  Fields  has  a  fine 
Grecian  front ;  and  in  its  yard  lie  Roubillac  the  sculp- 
tor, Parquliar  the  dramatist,  and  Nell  Gwynne,  The 
magnificent  National  Gallery  (free,  open  Mon., 
Tues.,  Wed.,  and  Sat.,  10  a.m.,  till  dark:  Thurs.  and 
Fri.,  6d.;  Sun.,  in  summer)  N.  of  Square,  has  a  classic 
fa9ade,  460  ft.  long.  It  contains  over  1,000  pictures, 
and  is  visited '  by  nearly  1,000,000  persons  yearly. 
Each  picture  has  its  title  and  artist  inscribed  upon 
it.  Fine  busts  and  statues  in  the  Hall.  Many  of  the 
most  famous  pictures  of  the  world,  familiar  by  countless 
engravings,  are  in  this  great  collection.  National 
Portrait  Gal.  adjoins  the  Nat,  Gal.,  open  same  days. 

Whitehall  leads  S.  to  Whitehall  Palace,  where 
Henry  VIII.  met  Anne  Boleyn,  and  where  he  died ; 
where  Holbein  dwelt ;  whence  Elizabeth  was  removed 
to  prison,  and  Charles  I.  to  execution ;  where  Milton 
and  Cromwell  dwelt,  and  the  latter  died ;  where  Charles 
II.  held  court.  The  site  was  occupied  by  the  palace  of 
Hubert  de  Burgh  (13th  century),  a  Dominican  con- 
vent, and  the  palace  of  Cardinal  Wolsey.  The  great 
Palladian  Bcmqueting  Hall  only  remains,  designed  by 
Inigo  Jones,  painted  by  Rubens,  and  now  used  as  a 
royal  chapel  (service  on  Sun.  at  11  and  3).  In  a 
house  near  by,  Sir  Robert  Peel  died.  In  this  vicmity 
is  Scotland  Yard,  famous  in  police  annals ;  once  the 
property  of  the  Scottish  Idngs,  and  later  the  home  of 
Wren,  Milton,  Inigo  Jones.     Also  Montague  House, 


142  THE  HOUSES   OF   PARLIAMENT. 

tlie  palace  of  the  Duke  of  Buccleucli.  In  Whitehall 
Yard  is  the  United  Service  Museum,  crowded  with  tro- 
phies of  the  wars  of  Britain  on  all  seas  and  shores, 
relics  of  Cromwell,  Nelson,  Wolfe,  Drake,  Franklin, 
Wellington,  Napoleon,  etc.  The  Horse-Guarda, 
headquarters  of  the  army,  is  opposite  Whitehall.  See 
mounted  Life-Guards  sentries,  10-4  daily.  The  Treas^ 
ury  comes  next  S.  The  new  Public  Offices,  built 
in  1868-73  by  Sir  G.  G.  Scott  (cost,  $2,500,000),  p 
splendid  pile  of  Itahan  buildings,  contain  the  Home, 
Foreign,  Colonial,  and  India  Offices. 

The  Houses  of  Parliament  form  an  immense 
Tudor  Gothic  pile,  of  Yorkshire  magnesian  limestone 
(already  crumbling),  covering  8  acres,  with  11  courta 
and  1,100  i-ooms,  erected  184U-59.  Strangers  admitted 
between  10  and  3  on  a  member's  order.  Fagade  along 
Thames  (940  ft.  long)  is  adorned  with  statues  and 
shields  of  all  the  sovereigns  of  England.  The  splendid 
Victoria  Tower  is  340  ft.  high  and  75  ft.  square ;  the 
Middle  Tower  is  300  ft.  high ;  and  the  Clock  Tower, 
318  ft.  high,  has  a  huge  clock  (dials  23  ft.  across),  and 
Big  Ben,  a  bell  weighing  13  tons.  The  oldest  part  is 
Westminster  Hall,  built  by  William  Rufus  in  1097,  and 
covered  with  the  present  wonderful  roof  of  Irish  oak 
by  Richard  II.  a  splendid  hall,  270  ft.  long  and  92  ft. 
high,  formerly  the  seat  of  England's  most  august  tri- 
bunals. Here  Wallace,  Strafford,  Guy  Fawkes,  More, 
Wyatt,  Lords  Essex,  Cobham,  and  Arundel,  the  Dukes 
of  Somerset,  Buckingham,  and  Norfolk,  the  Scottish 
nobles  who  favored  the  Stuarts,  and  King  Charles  I. 
were  condemned  to  death.  Here  Warren  Hastings 
was  tried,  and  also  the  Seven  Bishops.  Here  Edward 
III.  received  the  captive  kings,  David  of  Scotland  and 
John  of  France.  Here  Cromwell  was  installed  Lord 
Protector.     Here  the  coronation-banquets  have  been 


ENGLAND.  143 

held  for  800  years.  A  stairway  descends  to  the  crypt 
or  C/i.  of_St.  Mary  Undercroft,  built  by  King  Steplien, 
and  lately  made  res|:>lendent  as  a  chapel.  St.  Stephen  s 
Cloisters,  E.  of  the  hall,  were  built  by  Henry  YIII, 
Ascending  from  the  hall,  enter  St.  Stephens  Hall,  with 
statues  of  12  English  statesmen  and  12  ancient  mon- 
archs ;  and  the  Central  Hall,  a  lofty  octagon,  with 
statues.  The  corridors  have  large  frescos  of  scenes 
from  English  history.  The  House  of  Commons,  75  X 
45  ft.,  is  panelled  wdth  oak,  and  has  12  stahied  "win- 
dows. The  House  of  Lords,  97  X  45  ft.,  is  a  superb 
Gothic  room,  wath  12  stained  windows,  statues  of  the 
Magna-Charta  barons,  6  splendid  historical  frescos, 
the  Lord  Chancellor's  M^oolsack  and  the  thrones  of  the 
Queen  and  the  Prince  of  Wales.  See  the  Prince's 
Chamber,  Upper  Waiting-Hall,  Peers'  Robing-Room, 
superb  Yictoria  Gallery,  and  Queen's  Pobing-Room 
(richly  frescoed).  In  Old  Palace  Yard  is  a  statue  of 
Richard  Coeur  de  Lion.  Near  by  Chaucer  and  Ben 
Jonson  died.  The  old  Parliament  House,  erecLeu 
on  the  site  of  the  palace  of  the  Anglo-Saxon  and 
Plantagenet  kings,  and  burned  in  1834,  contained 
the  Star  Chamber,  and  was  the  birthplace  of 
Edward  I.,  and  the  scene  of  the  death  of  Edward 
the  Confessor.  Here  resounded  the  eloquence  of 
Pitt,  Pox,  Chatham,  Burke,  Canning,  and  Grattan. 
Westminster  Bridge,  built  1856-62,  at  a  cost  of 
$1,250,000,  commands  a  fincTiew  of  Parliament  House. 
St.  Margaret's  Ch.  replaced  a  ch.  built  in  1064  by 
Edward  the  Confessor,  and  has  a  magnificent  old  E. 
window  (The  Crucifixion)  and  many  quaint  tombs,  in- 
cluding those  of  poet-laureate  Skelton,  Milton's  wdfe, 
Cromwell's  mother,  Wm.  Caxton,  Lady  Dudley,  Har- 
rington {author  gf  Oceana),  Sir  Wm.  Waller,  and  Si? 


144  WESTMINSTER  ABBEY 

Walter  Raleigh  (who  is  buried  under  the  altar). 
Many  fine  memorials  stand  in  this  vicinity  ;  also 
Milton's  house,  lately  occupied  by  Hazlitt,  and  fre- 
quented by  Lamb  and  Haydon;  Jeremy  Bentham's 
house ;  the  quaint  old  Gray  Coat  School ;  and  the 
pretty  houses  of  Queen  Anne's  Gate. 

Westminster  Abbey  was  founded  (on  the  site 
of  a  temple  to  Apollo)  by  the  Anglo-Saxon  King 
Sebert  in  616,  for  Benedictines;  destroyed  by  Danes; 
and  rebuilt  by  Edgar  (985),  Edward  the  Confessor 
(1049),  Henry  III.,  and  Edward  I.  Henry  VIII. 
drove  out  the  monks,  Queen  Mary  restored  them, 
and  Elizabeth  scattered  them  for  ever,  AU  the 
sovereigns  of  England  since  Harold  have  been 
•crowned  here.  It  is  416  feet  in  length  and  103  feet 
high,  with  W.  towers  225  feet  high.  It  is  a  splen- 
did Early-English  building,  immense,  harmonious, 
solemn,  richly  colored.  (Enter  near  St.  Margaret's; 
open,  except  Sunday,  9  a.m.  till  darl?:.  Services 
at  8,  10  and  3  daily.  Entrance  to  chapels,  6d. ; 
Monday  and  Tuesday  free.)  It  is  world-renowned 
as  England's  Temple  of  Fame,  crowded  with  monu- 
ments of  kings,  heroes  and  scholars.  In  the  AT. 
Transept  are  the  monuments  of  Admirals  Warren, 
Tern  on,  Wager,  Lord  Chatham,  Canning,  Castle- 
Teagh,  Peel,  Mansfield,  two  Dukes  of  Newcastle, 
Warren  Hastings,  Cobden,  Buller,  and  many  famous 
lords.  .  In  the  abbey  are  monuments  to  Wilberf  orce, 
Stamford  Raffles,  Powell  Buxton,  Isaac  jSTewton, 
Charles  Lyell,  Fox,  Holland,  Pitt,  Wordsworth, 
Keble,  Congreve,  BuckTand,  Outram,  Major  Andre, 
Dr.  Watts,  John  Wesley,  Greneral  Paoli,  Kneiler, 
Livingstone,  Stephenson,  etc.  The  Poets'  Corner 
•contains  inscriptions  to  Goldsmith,  Gay,  Handel, 
Thomson,  Southey,  Shakespeare,  Campbell,  Sher- 
idan, Camden,  Dickens,  Grote,  Macaulay,  Thirl- 
wall,     Addison,     Thackeray,     Casaubon,     Barrow, 


ENGLAND.  145 

Garnck,  Prior,  Gra/,  Milton,  Spenser,  Butler,  J onson. 
Drayton,  Chaucer,  Cowley,  Dryden,  South,  Browning 
and  Tennyson.  See  chapels  of  St.  Benedict,  St. 
Edmo7id  and  St.  Nicholas.  The  Chapel  of  Henry 
VII.,  built  1502-20,  has  nave,  aisles,  and  5  chapels, 
with  1,000  statues,  exquisite  carved-oak  cboir-stalls  on 
eacli  side  (with  the  swords  and  banners  of  tlie  Knights 
of  tlie  Bath),  and  a  magnificent  stone  roof  of  fauwork 
tracery.  See  tombs  of  Henry  VII.,  James  L,  Mary 
Queen  of  Scots,  Charles  II.,  William  and  Mary,  George 
of  Denmark,  Edward  VI.,  Queen  Anne,  George  II., 
the  Duke  of  Montpensier,  Dean  Stanley,  Queen  Eliza- 
beth, Edward  V.,  etc.  The  Chapel  of  St.  Edward  the 
Confessor  has  tombs  of  Henry  V.,  Katheriue  of  Valois, 
Henry  III.,  Queen  Eleanor,  Richard  II.,  Philippa  of 
Hainault,  Edward  the  Confessor,  and  Edward  I. ;  also, 
the  Scottish  and  English  Coronation  Chairs,  and  the 
sword  and  sliield  of  Edward  III.  The  Chapels  of  St. 
John,  St.  Erasmus,  and  the  Abbot  Islip  contain  ancient 
tombs,  near  which  are  those  of  Aymer  de  Valence  and 
Gen.  Wolfe.  The  Chapels  of  Sts.  John,  Andrew,  and 
Michael  have  monuments  to  Humphry  Davy,  Dr. 
Young,  Mrs.  Siddons,  etc.  The  Chapter -Rouse,  built 
1250,  and  occupied  by  the  House  of  Commons,  1282- 
1547,  adjoins  the  Poets'  Corner,  and  is  near  the  Chapel 
of  the  Pyx,  St.  Blaise's  Chapel,  and  the  stairs  to  the 
Triforium.  Near  by  are  the  beautiful  Cloisters,  The 
world-renowned  Jerusalem  Chamber  was  built  1376-8&. 
Here  Henry  IV.  died;  and  here  the  recent  revision  of 
the  Bible  was  carried  out.  Westminster  School, 
founded  by  Queen  Ehzabeth  (1560),  is  entered  near  the 
column  to  the  W.  Wren,  Gibbon,  Cowley,  Cowper, 
Churchill,  Jonson,  Dryden,  Prior,  Locke,  Southej, 
Hakluyt,  and  Warren  Hastings  were  educated  here. 


146  ENGLAND. 

St.  Thomases  Hospital  is  a  line  of  buildings 
|-  M.  long  (cost  $2,500,000),  opposite  Parliament 
House.  Beyond,  and  also  on  the  Thames,  is  Lara- 
beth  I-alaee,  for  700  years  the  London  house  of 
the  Archbishops  of  Canterbury,  very  beautiful  and 
interesting.  Enter  by  Cardinal  Moreton's  lofty  em- 
battled gateway.  The  Ball  has  a  fine  timber-roof,  and 
library  of  30,000  vols.  Hon  ,  Wed.,  Thurs.,  Fri., 
10-4).  The  Guard  Charnher  has  portraits  of  many 
archbishops.  The  Chapel,  in  which  these  prelates 
are  consecrated,  dates  from  1244-70.  In  the  Lol- 
lards^ Tower  Lollards  were  imprisoned  and  tor- 
tured. In  the  inner  court  is  the  new  Tudor  palace 
of  the  archbishops.  The  gardens  of  Lambeth  are 
beautiful.  I M.  E.  is  Bethlehem  Hospital  for  the  In- 
sane {Bedlam) ;  and  a  little  beyond  are  St.  George^ s 
Catliedral  (Roman)  and  Spur g eon's  Tabernacle. 

Pall  Mall  is  a  splendid  st.,  nearly  |  M.  long,  run- 
ning W.  from  Trafalgar-Square,  and  lined  with  club 
houses,  which  are  also  found  in  St.  James- St. 
Among  these  are  the  University,  United  Service, 
Athenaeum,  Travellers',  Reform,  Carlton,  Army  and 
Navy,  Guards,  and  Marlborough.  Pall  Mall  cross- 
es Watei^loo  Place,  in  which  are  the  Crimean, Frank-. 
lin,  Burgoyne,  and  Colin-Campbell  monuments, 
and  the  York  column  (124  ft.  high;  6d.  for  ascent). 
In  Pall  Mall  is  Marlhorougli  House,  built  by  Wren, 
former  residence  of  the  Prince  of  Wales;  near  by 
St.  Ja.mes^s-Sq.,  with  palaces  and  club-houses.  St. 
James's  Palace  is  a  brick  building,  designed  by 
Holbein  and  built  by  Henry  VIII. ,  the  home  of  En- 
gland's kings  from  1691  to  1809,  Victoria  was 
married  in  its  chapel,  and  levees  were  held  in  its 
state-chambers.  Gaard-mounting  and  fine  military 
music  daily,  at  11.45.  Clarence  House  was  the  home 
of    the    Duke    of    Edinburgh.       Stafford     House 


ST.  JAMES'S  PARK  147 

(Duke  of  Sutherland)  contains  hundreds  of  paint- 
ings. Bridgewater  House  (Lord  Ellesmere)  has 
art-collections,  including  several  Eaphaels.  St. 
James's  Park,  S.  of  the  Palace,  was  created  by 
Henry  VIII.  and  Charles  II.,  and  has  a  lake  in  its 
centre,  the  Birdcage  Walk  and  Wellington  Bar- 
racks on  the  S, ,  the  Mall  on  the  JST. ,  and  on  the 
W. ,  near  the  Turkish  cannon  and  Marshal  Soult's 
mortar,  the  Foot  Guards  parade  at  10  a.  m. 
daily.  At  the  W.  end  is  Buckingham.  Palace, 
bought  in  1761  by  George  III.  of  the  Duke  of  Buck- 
ingham, now  the  town-residence  of  the  King.  It 
s  a  quadrangle,  with  Throne  Eoom,  Grand  Saloon, 
and  othor  halls,  and  a  Picture  Gallery^  containing 
hundreds  of  old  j)aintings.  In  the  rear  are  large 
gardens. 

Regent-St.,  containing  the  finest  shops  in  Lon- 
don, and  many  hotels  and  clubs,  is  1  M.  long,  and 
leads  from  Pall  Mall  to  Oxf ord-St. 

JPicoadilly,  a  Paris- like  street,  runs  from  Hay- 
market  to  Hyde  Park  (1  M.),  by  Geological  Museum 
(10-5,  on  member's  introduction);  St.  James^& 
Ch.,  built  by  Wren;  the  houses  of  the  Eoyai,  Geo- 
logical, Antiquarian,  Astronomical,  and  Chemical 
Societies;  the  Royal  Academy  of  Arts  (many  rare 
paintings);  London  UniveisBity,  with  statues;  Dev- 
onshire House,  famous  in  art;  and  other  palaces 
of  the  nobility.  Green  Park  bounds  one  side  of 
Piccadilly.  In  The  Albany  d^4t  Byron,  Bulwer, 
Monk  Lewis,  and  Macaulay. 

Oxford-St.  li  M.  from  HoTborn  to  Hyde  Park, 
passes  Bloomsbury,  Eussell,  Cavendish,  Hanover 
and  Bedford  Sqs. ,  with  their  displays  of  statuary, 
and  crosses  Eegent-St.  and  New  Bond-St. ,  famous 
for  fine  shops.  The  British  Museum  (open  daily, 
free,  from  10  a.m.  till  dusk)   is  near  iiev/  Oxford- 


14S  ENGLAND. 

St. ,  and  contains  one  of  the  grandest  collections  in 
the  world.  Here  are  the  Elgin  Marbles,  from  the 
Athenian  Parthenon;  hundreds  of  Greek  and 
Koman  sculptures,  and  statuary;  reliefs  from  Baby- 
lon, Nineveh,  and  Nimroud;  6  rooms  full  of  Egyp- 
tian antiquities,  MSS,,  jewels,  statues,  etc. ;  hun- 
dreds of  Greek,  Etruscan,  and  Eoman  bronzes; 
antiquities  of  the  flint,  Celtic,  Koman,  Saxon,  and 
mediaeval  ages  in  England.  The  Reading  Room  (open 
only  to  students,  apply  in  writing  to  librarian)  is  a 
circular  hall  in  the  centre  of  the  quadrangle,  with  a 
dome  of  glass  and  iron  ;  the  Library  contains  1,000.- 
000  books.  A  little  way  N.  E.  is  the  Foundling 
Hospital,  with  pictures  by  Reynolds,  Hogarth,  etc. 
Services  in  chapel,  at  11  and  3  on  Sundays.- 

Regent's  Park  (472  acres),  a  bit  of  open  coun- 
try in  a  densely  populated  region,  is  li  M.  N.  W. 
of  Trafalgar  Sq.,  and  contains  the  famous  Zoologi- 
cal Gardens,  with  numbers  of  birds  and  beasts, 
(open  daily,  9  a.  m.  till  dark,  Is.;  Mon.,  6d.  Best 
time  to  visit,  3-4).  Here  are  the  Botanical  Gar- 
dens. Primrose  Hill  lies  N. ;  and  Lord^s  CtHcket 
Ground  is  W.  2-3  M.  W.  is  Kensal- Green  Cemetery, 
where  are  buried  Thackeray,  Leigh  Hunt,  Sidney 
Smith,  Allan  Cunningham,  Buckle,  Eastlake,  Mul- 
ready,  Mathews  the  actor.  Leech  the  cartoonist, 
Gibson  the  sculptor.  Cardinal  Wiseman,  etc. 

Hyde  Park  (390  acres)  was  laid  out  by  Henry 
VIII.  At  the  N.  E.  gate  is  the  Marble  Arch;  at  the 
S.E.,  Hyde  Park  Corner,  is  another  portal,  opposite 
which  stands  a  tall  arch,  which  formerly  bore  a 
statue  of  Wellington.  Rotten  Row  runs  thence 
to  Kensington  Gate  (1^  M.),  and  is  a  riding-course. 
The  Drive,  alongside,  is  filled  with  equipages. 
The  Serpentine  is  an  artificial  pond,  with  pleasure- 
boats.     Remarkable  lawns  and  trees  are  seen  on  all 


ENGLAND.  14^ 

sides.  Kensington  Gardens  adjoin  Hyde  Park  on  the 
W".,  and  lead  to  Kensington  Palace,  a  grim  brick 
structure,  built  by  William  III.,  and  the  birth-place 
of  Queen  Victoria.  William  and  Mary,  Queen  Anne 
and  her  consort,  and  George  II.  died  here.  Farther 
W.  is  Holland  House,  a  Tudor  palace  built  in  1607, 
and  frequented  by  Cromwell  and  Fairfax,  Wm.  Penn,. 
Addison,  William  and  Mary,  Moore,  Rogers,  and 
Macaulay.  S.  of  the  Gardens  stands  the  Albert  Memo- 
rial, a  superb  Gothic  monument,  175  ft.  high,  covered 
with  statues,  and  composed  of  a  Gothic  canopy,  under 
which  is  a  colossal  statue  of  Albert.  Across  the  road 
is  the  vast  oval  amphitheatre  of  the  Royal  Albert 
Hall,  overarched  with  glass,  holding  8,000  people, 
and  provided  with  an  organ  of  8,000  pipes.  The 
Natural  History  Museum  faces  Cromwell  -  Road*,^ 
contains  geological,  mineralogical,  botanical,  and  zoo- 
logical collections — formerly  British  Museum  (open. 
10-5,  Sun.  2-5). 

The  South.  Kensington  Museum  (free,  Mon., 
Tues.,  Sat.,  10-10  ;  6d.,Wed.,  Thurs.,  Fri.,  10  a.m.  till 
dark;  §un.,  2-5;  restaurant  and  lavatories  in  building) 
is  one  of  the  richest  in  the  world  (^  hr.  from  Charing 
Cross  by  rly.).  It  was  founded  in  1857,  and  has  re- 
ceived many  generous  bequests,  besides  $5,000,000 
from  Government,  The  first  court  is  crowded  with  ar- 
chitectural rarities,  original  or  in  casts.  The  S.  Court 
is  surrounded  with  mosaic  portraits  of  the  33  most 
famous  artists,  and  Sir  F.  Leighton's  famous  frescos^ 
and  contains  many  exquisite  objects  of  art.  The  N. 
Court  is  devoted  to  Italian-Renaissance  sculptures,  al- 
tars, tabernacles,  etc., and  costly  tapestries,  terra-cotta 
work,  fans,  laces,  and  ancient  musical  instruments. 
The  Cloisters  contain  ancient  and  Oriental  furniture, 
Persian  tiles,  carpets,  and  metal-work.  The  National 
Gallery   of   British   Art    is   exceedingly  interest' 


150  CHELSEA.  —  ON  THE  THAMES. 

ing,  and  has  the  famous  Cartoons  of  Raphael,  many 
hundreds  of  choice  paintmgs  by  Turner,  Reynolds, 
Landseer,  Leslie,  Wilkie,  etc.;  water-colors  in  great 
variety ;  and  the  Forster  collection  of  autographs  and 
MSS.  The  Prince  Consort  Gallery  contains  mediaeval 
works  of  art  in  gold,  brass,  and  steel,  silver-gilt,  enamel, 
and  ivory.  Tlie  Keramic  Oallery\\2i^  Palissy,  Majolica, 
Spanish,  Wedgwood,  Dresden,  Sevres,  and  other  wares, 
in  great  variety.  The  Patent-Office  Museum  adjoins  this 
building. 

Between  Hyde  Park  and  the  Thames  are  Belgravia 
and  Chelsea,  the  former  containing  many  fine  streets, 
inhabited  by  rich  families,  and  the  latter  being  noted 
mainly  for  its  Hospital  for  old  soldiers,  built  by  Wren. 

Down  the  Thames. —  Many  dingy  little  steamers 
ply  on  the  Thames,  touching  every  10  min.  at  West- 
minster.  Charing  Cross,  Blackfnars,  St.  Paul's,  etc. 
(fares,  l-2d.).  Their  focal  point  is  London  Bridge, 
whence  larger  boats  depart  for  Greenwich  (3-4d.), 
Woolwich,  and  the  sea.  You  pass  the  Tower,  St. 
Catherine's  Docks,  London  Docks,  the  Isle  of  Dogs, 
the  Surrey,  Commercial,  and  W.  India  Docks.  Below 
Greenwich  the  river  is  dull.     The  journey 

Up  the  Thames  gives  fine  view  of  St.  Paul's  on 
the  r. ;  and  farther  up,  opposite  Blackfriars,  the 
Times  newspaper  offices.  Thence  to  Waterloo  Bridge, 
you  have  the  Embankment  on  the  r.  Above  this  is  the 
Adelphi  Terrace;  the  Obelisk,  on  the  r.;  and  passing  the 
bridges  to  Charing-Cross  stat.  and  Whitehall  Stairs, 
you  come  to  Westminster  Bridge.  On  the  1.  are  St. 
Thomas's  Hospital  and  Lambeth  Palace;  on  the  r.,  the 
Houses  of  Parliament  and  Westminster  Abbey.  Geft 
Dickens's  Dictionary  of  the  Thames  (Is,} 


ENGLAND.  151 


Excursions  in  Southern  England. 

Windsor  {Castle  Inn;  White  Hart),  22  M.  from 
London,  may  be  reached  by  G.  W.  or  S.  W.  Railway 
(return  fares,  5s,  6d.,  4s.  3d.).  The  superb  state 
apartments  are  open  Mon.,  Tues.,  Thurs.,  Fri.,  Sat., 
on  presentation  of  tickets  (adults  Is.,  children  6d.); 
when  the  King  is  at  home,  they  are  not  shown.  (Buy 
Companion  through  the  State  Apartments,  Id.)  The  cas- 
tle stands  on  the  apex  of  a  hill,  and  may  be  seen  from 
afar.  Here  William  the  Conqueror  built  a  residence.. 
Edward  III.  was  born  in  Windsor ;  and  Geoffrey  Chaucer, 
the  poet,  once  lived  here.  The  state  apartments  are 
at  the  N.  side.  Grand  entrance  of  the  castle,  George 
IV.'s  GatevjaT/,  in  the  S.  front,  opposite  the  Long 
Walk,  a  fine  vista  of  elms,  3  M.  long.  Yisitors'  en- 
trance, Henry  YIII.'s  gateway.  Prom  the  Round 
Tower  (open  11-4)  12  counties  may  be  seen.  See 
Waterloo  Hall,  fine  Van  Dyclcs  and  Kubeuses ;  Chapel 
Royal  iSt.  George's  (open  12-4,  free),  one  of  the  finest 
Gothic  edifices  in  Europe  (built  in  1474),  with  choir 
hung  round  with  the  banners,  helmets,  and  insignia 
of  the  Kniglits  of  the  Garter ;  Albert  Chapel,  formerly 
Wolsey's  Chapel,  built  by  Henry  YII.  and  reopened  in 
1875,  superb  mosaics,  reredos,  and  cenotaph  (open 
Wed.,  Thurs.,  Tri.,  and  Sat.).  Tine  view  from  the 
Castle  Terrace.  Pleasant  drive  (7  M.)  to  Virginia 
Water  {Wheatsheaf  Hotel).  There  are  1,800  acres 
in  the  Great  Park.  Eton  College  is  \  M.  from 
Windsor.  The  stone  chapel,  175  ft.  long,  is  very 
handsome.  Bronze  statue  of  Henry  VI.  See  the 
fine  library  and  MSS.  There  are  1,000  students  here. 
The  college  was  founded  in  1440.  Stoke  Pogis, 
flip  scene  of  Gray's  Elegy,  and  the  burial-place  of  the 


152         HAMPTON  COURT.  —  RICHMOND. 

poet,  is  near  Windsor.    Fine  monument  to  Gray  in 
Stolce  Fark. 

Hampton  Court  {Kings  Arms;  Mitre;  Grey* 
ko2md),  rly.  in  |  lir.  (13  M.),  or  Thames  (24  M.),  has 
an  old  palace  covering  8  acres.  It  was  founded  by 
Cardinal  Wolsey,  then  at  the  height  of  his  ambition,  and 
presented  to  Henry  YIII.,  who  coveted  it.  Here  also 
was  a  favorite  residence  of  both  Charles  I.  and  Crom- 
M^ell.  It  is  now  the  home  of  pensioners  of  the  Crown. 
(State-apartments  open  daily,  except  Fri,,  10-6,  March 
• — Oct.;  on  Sun.,  2-6.)  See  the  Presence  Chamber. 
Galleries  of  nearly  1,000  paintings,  and  the  great 
Gothic  Hall,  hung  with  tapestries,  and  covered  with  a 
timber  roof.  Purchase  the  Strajiger's  Guide  (6d.), 
which  gives  full  accounts. 

Kew  Royal  Botanical  Gardens  (South  Western 
Rly.  ;  fares.  Is.  9d.,  Is.  4d.,  Is.  2d. ;  time,  \  hr.) 
contain  the  plants  and  flowers  of  all  countries.  (Buy 
hand-book,  6d.)     3  M.  from  Kew  is 

Richmond  {Star  and  Garter,  famous  for  cuisine, 
wines,  and  high  bills),  where  Edward  I.  founded  a 
palace,  and  Queen  Elizabeth  died.  Fine  view  from 
Richmond  Hill.  The  Park  (2,255  acres)  belongs  to  the 
Crown  and  is  open  to  the  public.  James  Thomson  and 
Edmund  Kean  are  buried  in  the  eh.  The  King,  when 
Prince  of  Wales,  sometimes  lived  at  the  White 
Lodge.  Park  stocked  with  deer.  The  footpaths  on 
either  shore  afford  exquisite  views.  At  Twickenham 
see  Orleans  Hoiise,  the  former  residence  of  Louis  Phi- 
lippe ;  ch.  in  which  Pope  is  buried ;  and  Strawberrif 
Hill,  Horace  Walpole's  villa. 

The  Crystal  Palace,  on  high  ground  at  Sydenham, 
was  erected  1853-4,  at  a  cost  of  $7,500,000.^  Do  not 
fail  to  see  it.  Return  fares,  including  admission  (every 
day  except  Sat.,  when  admission  is  2s.  6d.),  3s.,  2s.  3d.j 


ENGLAND.  153 

Is.  9d.  You  can  go  from  London  Bridge,  Victoria, 
Kensiiigton,  Holborn,  or  Ludgate  Hill  stats.  The 
Aqnaiiuni,  the  Aviary,  the  wonderful  Architectural 
Courts,  th.tr  Picture  Gallery,  are  worth  insjjection. 
Gardens  very  Ane;  fireworks  on  summer  evenings. 
Good  restaurantb  attached.  (Guide-books,  Id,,  3d., 
Is.).  The  central  hall  :s  1,608  ft.  long,  crossed  by 
transepts. 

The  Alexandra  Palace  and  P?,rk  are  6  M.  N.  of 
London;  J  hr.  from  Kings  Cross.  Admission,  Is.  It 
is  rectangular,  with  corner  towers,  covei»  7^  acres ; 
and  the  grounds  cover  480  acreb.  Cee  music  hall 
(seating  12,000),  with  large  organ. 

Ely.  from  Alexandra  to  Highgate  (2  r^.),  in  whose 
picturesque  cemetery  lie  Faraday,  S.  T.  Coleridge, 
Lor5.  Lindhurst,  and  George  Eliot.  It  is  an  easy  walk 
to  Hampstead  Heath,  240  acres  of  breezy  hi^hltiud 
park,  once  famous  for  its  highwaymen,  and  aow 
visited  for  its  beautiful  views  of  London.  In  Hamp- 
etead  Ch.,  Sir  James  Mackintosh,  Joanna  Baillie  anc 
Constable,  the  painter,  are  buried. 

Dulwich,  ^  hr.  by  rly.  from  Victoria  station  (open 
daily,  10-4),  has  paintings  purchased  for  King  Stan- 
islaus of  Poland,  but  given  to  God's  Gift  College^ 
Works  of  Murillo,  Teniers,  Rembrandt,  Cuyp,  Rubens, 
Van  Dyck,  Velazquez,  and  Titian.  Portrait  of  Mrs. 
Siddons,  by  Sir  Joshua  Reynolds. 

Greenwich  Hospital  (6M.  from  Charing  Cross; 
fares.  Is.,  9d.,  6d.;  time  i  h.  Or  by  steamer  in  1  hr. 
from  London  Bridge;  fares,  6d.,  4d.),  formerly  fo-r 
disabled  seamen  of  the  Royal  Navy,  on  site  of  palace 
where  Henry  VIII.  was  born,  where  he  married  Ann*;. 
Boleyn,  and  where  Edward  VI.  died.  Now  occupied 
by  the  Royal  Naval  College.  The  Painted  Hall  i& 
open  daily  at  10  and  on  Sundays  at  2.  The  Museun 
of  Naval  Architecture  and  the  Cliapel  are  open  daily, 
except  on  Fri.  and  Sun.,  from  10  till  dark. 


154        ST.  ALBANS.-  PUTNEY.-  MARGATE. 

Greenwich  Park  (174  acres)  contains  some  fine  old 
elms,  planted  in  the  time  of  Charles  II.  On  a  little 
hill  stands  the  Royal  Observatory,  built  in  1675. 

Harrow-on-the-Hill  is  11^  M.  (|-  hr.)  from  Lon- 
don. Harrow  Ch.  stands  on  an  isolated  hill,  whence 
grand  panorama.  Harrow  is  the  location  of  the  second 
leading  public  school  in  the  kingdom  (founded  1571). 
In  the  old  schoolroom  the  names  of  Byron,  Robert 
Peel,  Sheridan,  Palmerston,  and  others  are  carved 
on  the  panels.  See  the  Chapel  and  the  School 
Lihrary. 

St.  Albans,  21 M.  out  (^  - 1  hr.),  has  a  noble  'Sov- 
msiiiAhbey  Oh.,  founded  by  Offall.,  King  of  Mercia, 
in  795 ;  rebuilt  1077-88,  and  made  a  cathedral  in  1877. 
It  is  425  ft.  long,  and  has  a  massive  tower  (whence 
fine  view) ;  the  shrine  of  St.  Alban,  the  protomartyr 
of  England  (a.  d.  324);  and  quaint  old  chantries 
and  stained  windows.  2  battles  occurred  here  in 
the  Wars  of  the  Roses.  In  St.  MichaeVs  Ch.  Bacon 
is  buried.  See  Roman  walls,  Gatehouse,  and  Clock 
To'Lver. 

Putney  {Star  and  Garter)  is  quickly  reached  by 
steamboat  or  by  rly.  Gribbon  was  born,  and  Pitt  died 
here.  At  Chiswick  Fox  and  Canning  died,  and  Ho- 
garth is  buried.  Opposite  Putney  is  Fulham,  with  a 
fine  old  palace  and  park  of  the  Bishops  of  London. 
Lovely  river-scenery  in  this  region.  To  the  S.  is  Wim- 
hledon,  with  famous  rifle-ranges.  Norwich,  126|-  M. 
from  London  (fares,  21s.,  16s.,  10s.  lOd.)  has  many 
quaint  old  buildings  and  chs.,  a  lofty  castle,  and  a 
splendid  ISTorman  cathedral  (founded  in  1096).  Col- 
chester and  Ipsivich,  with  their  fine  relics  of  mediae- 
valism,  may  be  visited  on  the  way  to  Harwich. 

Margate  {C liftonville  Hotel;  White  Hart;  York), 
72  M.  from  London,  is  thronged  with  visitors  in  sum- 
mer. Pier  900  ft.  long.  Principal  chs. :  St.  John's, 
Trinity,  St.  Paul's.     Ramsgate,  ^  M.  S.,  is  rather 


ENGLAND.  155 

more  aristocratic.  Season  from  June  to  Nov.  Bathing 
good.  Fme  pier,  commenced  in  1750.  Eastbourne 
{Burlington  Hotel;  Anchor;  Albion),  65  M.  from 
London  (express,  16s.,  13s.,  9s.  6d.,  5s.),  is  a  favorite 
watering-place.     Grand  Parade  faces  the  sea. 

Hastings  (^i^ee?i's,  very  large;  Albioti;  Grand; 
Marine)  is  76  M.  from  London  (return  fares,  25s.,  20s.) 
"St,  Leoiiard's-on-Sea,"  the  Belgravia  of  Hastings  (J.?- 
exandra;  Royal  Victoria;  i^oy«T>S'aa;o?i)isthe  jprettiest 
watering-place  in  Sussex.  Fine  beach,  and  a  pleasant 
esplanade,  with  splendid  line  of  houses  fronting  the 
sea  for  3  M.  Castle  may  be  visited.  Good  view  of 
the  old  town  from  the  Sea  Cliffs  or  the  Pier  (900  ft. 
long).  Pavilion,  first-class  baths,  aquarium,  reading- 
rooms,  here.  Excursions  should  be  made  to  Battle 
Abbey,  8  M. ;  Bexhill,  5  M. ;  Catsfield,  3  M.  At 
Battle  {Railway  Hotel;  George),  battle  of  Hastings 
was  fought.  The  grand  ruins  of  Battle  Abbey  are 
open  Tuesday,  12-4. 

Brighton. — It  is  pleasant  to  go  by  a  4-horse  coach 
(tri-weekly,  in  6  hrs.,  15s.)  from  the  Wliite  Horse 
Cellar,  in  Piccadilly,  to  Old  Ship  Hotel,  Brighton. 
Kly,,li-hr. ;  return  fares,  17s. 6d.,  12s. 6d.  Principal 
hotels  on  sea-front :  Grand,  Bedford,  Norfolk, 
Royal,  Crescent,  Albion,  Old  Ship,  MarJcwelFs,, 
Queen's,  Albemarle,  Bristol.  Many  boarding-houses. 
Brighton  is  London  by  the  sea.  The  attraction  is 
the  fine  sea,-front  of  3  M.  long.  The  Brighton 
Grand  Aquarium  is  the  largest  in  the  world.  On 
the  E.  part  of  the  Promenade  was  the  Chain  Pier^ 
now  destroyed.  The  W.  Pier  is  opposite  Regency- 
Square.  Music  on  the  piers.  The  Royal  Pavilion, 
begun  in  1784  by  the  Prince  of  Wales,  is  now  owned 
by  the  town,  and  used  for  public  balls,  etc.  Library 
and  Picture  Gallery  here.  Near  are  South  Downs, 
55  M.  in  length,  with  a  breadth  of  4^  M.  Tun- 
bridgeWens((7a^yer^2//  Earls  Court;  Grand;  Sp(^)As 


156  SOUTHAMPTON.— WINCHESTER. 

a  popular  inland  watering-place,  with  chalybeate 
springs.  Bayham  Abhey  ruins  near  by.  A  pleasant 
excursion  may  be  made  along  the  South  Coast  from 
Brighton  to  Portsmtinth  {George  Hotel ;  Bedford; 
Sussex),  very  important;  naval  station.  See  the 
Dockyards  (open  10-12,  1-3);  order  from  Admiralty 
obligatory  for  foreigners.  Off  the  Dockyard  lies  the 
Victory,  the  old  wooden  ship  in  which  Nelson  died, 
Southsea  (Queen^s;  Esplanade)  is  a  fashionable 
watering-place  near  by.  See  the  Common,  the  Bier,  the 
Esplanade,  From  Portsmouth  passengers  may  em- 
bark for  the  Isle  of  Wight,  Portsmouth  is  72  miles 
from  London  (fares,  15s.  6d.,  10s.  lOd.,  6s.  2d.), 

Southampton  {S. -  Western  ;  Badley''s;  Dolphin; 
Royal),  an  important  steamship  station,  78f  M,  from 
London  (fares,  15s.  6d.,  lis.,  6s.  6d.).  Boats  for  the 
Channel  Islands,  Harwich,  the  Isle  of  Wight, 
America  and  India.  In  Blue  Anchor  Lane  is  King 
John''s  Palace,  one  of  the  oldest  houses  in  Englano, 
Excursion  to  lovely  Netley  Abhey,  3  M.  (open  Mon., 
Tues.,  Wed.,  Fri,,  and  Sat.).  You  may  next  go  to 
Salisbury  {Wliite  Hart  Hotel;  Red  Lion;  Three 
Swaiis;  Angel),  which  contains  a  noble  Cathedral^ 
among  the  very  first  in  England.  It  was  founded  in 
1220,  and  was  the  first  great  English  church  in  the 
Pointed  Style.  Exquisite  spire,  the  highest  in  Eng- 
land (404  ft.).  Cloisters,  Chapter-House,  and  Nave 
very  noticeable.  Sculptures  in  Chapter-House  from 
Old*  Testament  history.  Statue  of  Sydney  Herbert 
in  the  market-place.  See  Blackmore  Museum,  Ex- 
cursions to  Stonehenge,  9  M.  N.,  vast  ruins  of  a 
Druidic  sanctuary ;  Wilton  House  (3  M.),  with  fine 
paintings;  SinA  Longford  Castle. 

Winchester  ( Oeorge  Hotel;  Royal;  Black  Swan) 
is  one  ot  the  great  historical  cities  of  England.  The 
Cathedral  (1079-1148),  560  ft.  long,  nave  265  ft.,  is 
the  prmcipal  attraction.     Architecture  of  Nave  very 


ENGLAND  157 

curious.  See  JIural  Monuments,  Font  and  Chan- 
try. In  the  Central  Lady  Chapel  Queen  Mary  was 
married  to  Philip  of  Spain,  in  1554.  See  Castle,  and 
make  excursion  to  Hospital  of  St.  Cross;  admission 
6d.  Fares  to  London,  66i  M.,  13s.  lOd.,  9s.  9d., 
5s.  6d. 

The  Isle  of  Wight  may  be  reached  from  South- 
a,rapton  by  steamers  to  Cowes  (in  |  hr.),  or  to  Ryde. 
Trains  run  between  R.yde  and  Ventnor,  with  branch 
to  Newport,  and  between  Ryde  and  Cowes.  The  Isie 
is  22^  Mo  long  and  14  M.  broad.  Ventnor  and  the 
Under  Cliff  are  recommended  to  invalids.  In  summer 
secure  rooms  in  advance.  Ryde  (Royal  Pier;  Es- 
planade; Marijie)  has  fine  pier,  school  of  art,  museum. 
It  is  12  M.  to  Ventnor,  through  delightful  scenery. 
On  the  route  is  Sandown  {Sandowti  House;  Ocean; 
York),  fashionable  resort.  Sands  and  bathing 
good.  Shankiin  {Daish's  Hotel;  HolUer's)  is  a 
picturesque  village.  The  Chine,  near  by,  is  a  ro- 
mantic ravine.  Bonchurch,  11  M.  from  Ryde,  is 
very  beautiful ;  John  Sterling  is  buried  here.  Ventnor 
{Royal;  Marine;  Queen'' s;  Esplanade ;  Crah  and 
Lobster)  is  much  frequented.  Fares  from  London 
to  Ventnor,  21s.  2d.,  15s.  Id.,  lis.  Return  tickets 
(good  for  8  days),  35s.  9d.,  26s.  6d.,  19s.  9d.  Near 
by  are  Norris  Castle  and  Osborne  House,  presented 
by  the  King  to  the  nation  for  a  convalescent  home. 
Newport  is  1  M.  from  Carisbrooke  Castle,  a  grand 
historic  ruin. 

Bath  {Grand  Pu?np  Room;  York;  Empire;  Pult- 
eney)  has  most  sumptuously  appointed  warm  baths  in 
Europe.  It  is  a  city  of  53,000  inh.,  on  the  Avon,  and 
once  famous  as  the  home  of  Beau  Nash,  and  the  scene 
of  Miss  Austen's  novels.  See  the  stately  Abbey  Ch. 
(1499);  Beckford's  Tower  and  tomb;  the  Gruildhall; 
and  many  fine  residences  and  parks.  Excursions  to 
.Prior  Park,  Lansdoivn  Hill,  Hampton  Down,  and 
'ruins  of  Hinton  Abbev.     From  Bath  it  is  114-  M.  to 


158  BRISTOL.  —  CARDIFF.  —WELLS. 

Bristol  {Royal  Hotel;  Grand;  George),  the  capital  of 
the  W.  of  England,  and  a  very  ancient  city.  It  is  on 
the  Avon,  7  M.  from  the  sea.  Fine  docks  at  the 
river's  mouth.  See  St.  Mary  RedcUffe  Ch.,  very 
lovely  ;  the  Cathedral  ^1140),  with  tombs  of  Bishop 
Butler  and  Jane  Porter,  fine  cloisters  and  chapter- 
house  ;  College  Gate;  the  Mayor's  Ghapel  (1220);  Bris- 
tol Museum;  Glifton,  a  beautiful  suburb;  the  Sus^mi- 
sion  Chain  Bridge  (get  the  views);  Nightingale  VaU 
ley;  and  Zoological  Gardens.  Excursions  to  Blaise 
Castle;  and  George  MuUer's  Orphan  Asjjlum  (2050 
children)  at  Ashley  Station. 

From  Bristol  you  may  cross  the  BHstol  Channel  to 
Cardiff  {Uoyal  Hotel ;  ParU;  Angel),  a  very  important 
Welsh  port.  See  Btde  Docks;  the  Castle;  and  Sophia 
Park,  ijscursioiis  to  Caerphilli/  Castle ;  Llanda^ 
(with  grand  old  Cathedral);  Llanwit;  and  St.  Bonafs. 
From  Cardiff  you  can  make  an  excursion  through  S. 
Wales,  and  it  will  richly  repay.  Fares  from  Cardiff 
to  Loudon  (170^  M.),  33s.  6d.,  25s.;  from  Bristol  to 
London  (118i;M.),  26s.  Id,,  18s.  3d. 

Bevonshire  is  one  of  the  most  interesting  parts  of 
England.  Tourists  can  reach  Exeter  from  London  in 
4-5  hrs.  (distance,  171^  M. ;  fares,  35s.,  25s.,  14s.  3^d.). 
Or  they  may  go  from  Bristol  to  Exeter  by  "Wells 
(Swan  Hotel ;  Star;  Mitre^,  which  is  a  perfect  eccle- 
siastical city,  with  a  moated  Bishop's  Palace,  an  em« 
battled  Beanery^  and  a  quaint  Vicar  s  Close.  The 
venerable  Cathedral  is  very  rich  in  sculptures,  and  in 
every  way  impressive.  Superb  Chapter-House.  (See 
local  guides.)  Glastonbury  {George  Hotel ;  Red 
Lion)  has  a  ruined  Alihey,  one  of  the  earliest  centres 
of  Christianity  in  England.  King  Arthur  was  buried 
here.  The  George  Inn  was  a  hostelry  for  pilgrims  in 
Edward  IV. 's  time.  This  is  the  ancient  Isle  of  Avalon. 
Get  Williamson'' s  Guide,  Is.     See  St.  John's  and  St. 


ENGLAND  159 

Benedict's  Chs.  Exeter (Eougemojif;  Clarence;  JVeio 
London;  IIaIf-Moo7i) has  gr-dnd  CathedraLbnilt  1107- 
120o,with  interesting  chapels,  Minstrels'  Gallery  choir, 
close,  and  far- viewing  tower;  the  Castle,  Norman 
ruins  ;  the  Elizabethan  Guildhall ;  Albert  Museum. 
Plymouth  (i)it/ve  of  Cornwall;  ChuhVs;  Royal)  is  rich 
fn  objects  of  interest.  Seethe  Hoe,  St.  Andrew'' s  Ch.j 
the  Neio  Gidldhall,  Atherimum,  Raglan  Barracks,  the 
Demnport  Column.  The  Eddystone  LiglitliO"use  is 
14  M.  from  Plymouth  ;  excursion  by  steamer,  Tor- 
quay {Imperial;  Royal;  Belgrave),  is  a  famous  water- 
ing-glace. See  the  Bay,  where  the  Prince  of  Orange 
landed  in  1688;  Tor  Abbey,  the  Ch.,  and  the  Museum. 
Beautiful  drives  and  walks.  Fares  to  London  (220  M.), 
40s.  2d. ,  28s .  5d. ,  16s.  S^d.  Get  guides  of  Devon  Coast 
and  Cornwall.  Penaance  [Queen's  Hotel)  is  328  M. 
from  London  (fares,  63s.  6d.,  44s,  6d.,  26s.  6|-d.), 


B,outes  to  the  Continemi 

Quickest  Koutes. —  Via  Dover  and  Calais  ,*  22  M. 
across  Channel.  To  Paris,  283  M.. (fares,  £3,  £2  5s.). 
Day  service:  leave  London  8  a.  m.;  arrive  at  Paris 
4.30  p.  M.  Night  service  :  leave  London  8.05  p.  m.: 
reach  Paris  6  a.  m.  —  Via  Folhestone  and  Boulogne, 
day  tidal  service  :  London  to  Paris,  255  M, ;  Channel 
passage,  28  M.  in  2  hrs.  (Fares,  £2  16s.,  £2  2s.;  time, 
8|-  hrs.)  There  is  a  cheap  night  service  to  Paris  via 
Boulogne  or  Calais  (fares,  2d  class  31s.  6d.,  3d  class 
\  21s.).  Return  tickets,  express  route,  via  Dover  and 
1  Calais,  or  Folkestone  and  Boulogne,  £4  15s.,  £3  15s.; 
by  night  service,  47s.,  31s.  6d.  You  will  pass,  by  South 
{Eastern,  Chiselhurst,  where  Napoleon  III.  died,  and 
|where  he  and  his  son  Louis  are  buried ;  and  by  Chat- 
jham  and  Dover,  you  pass  Rochester,  which  has  an 
jantique  Norman  Cathedral,  with  interesting  chapels 


160      ROCHESTER.-CANTERBU  R  Y.-DO  VER. 

and  the  ruins  of  a  powerful  Norman  castle,  with 
beautiful  environs,  including  Dickens's  old  home, 
Oad/s  Hill.  Just  beyond  is  Chatham,  with  import- 
ant dockyards. 

Canterbury    {Fountain,  County,  Flev,r-de-Lys). 
The  ancient  Merceri/  Lane  leads  to  the  famous  Cathedral, 
built  1070-1184,  522  ft.  long,  with  remarkable  chapels, 
monuments,  crypts,  cloisters,  and  a  very  beautiful  an(^ 
lofty  central  tower.       See  ,6'^.  AugustAnes   College  for 
missionaries,  iu  the  rains  of  the  ancient  abbey.    Thomas  ^ 
Becket  was  killed  in  the  cathedral,  and  the  Black  Prince 
is    buried  there.     At   Folkestone    {Pavilion   Hotel ; 
Grand ;  Metropole)  the  train  stops  near  the  steamers. 
Dover  {Lord  Warden  Hotel;  Dover  Castle;  Burli7ig- 
ton)   is  worth  half  a  day's  stay.      The  Castle  was 
nearly  destroyed  by  fire  in  1897.      The  Piers  and 
Shakespeare's  Cliff  {v.  King  Lear)  deserve  attention. 
Routes   Longer    and    Less   Expensive.  —  Via 
Newhaoen  and  Dieppe  (day  and  night  boats  iu  summer, 
tidal  service).     Fares,  tickets  good  for  7   days,  33s., 
34s.,  17s.     Time,  12-13  hrs.     Channel  passage,  64  M. 
(5|-7    hrs.).^F2(«  Southampton   and   Hacre:  Mon.j 
Wed.,  and  Fri.  (fares,  33s.,  24s.).     Boats  leave  South- 
ampton at  11.45  P.M.     Channel  and  river  passage  tc 
Havre,    8|-9   hrs.—  From    London  Bridge,  across  the 
Channel  to    Boulogne.  —  From   Dover   to    Ostend,    for 
those   going  to    Belgium.      London   to   Ostend,    37s. 
5d.,  26s.  7d.      Channel    passage,   68   M.   (4   hrs.).— 
From  London,  via  Harwich,  to  Rotterdam  or  Antwerp. 
Leave  London  at  8  p.  m.;  Harwich,  10  p.  m.  ;  reach 
Rotterdam   9   a.  m,     Antwerp  boat  leaves  at  same 
time  ;  reaches  Antwerp  10  a.  m.      London   to    Ant- 
werp or   Rotterdam,  26s.,  21s.,  15s.     Returns,  40s., 
31s.    6d.,    24s.       Daily  service. — Fvom  I-ondon,   via 
Queensborongh,  to  Fiushing  daily. 


NORTHERN  FRANCE.  161' 


JSrORTHERN    FRANCE. 

ipHE   Ports  of  Entry  in  France   at  which  you 
•^     may  arrive  from  England  are  described  below, 

Calais  [Hotel  Terminus;  Londres ;  Sauvage)  may 
be  seen  in  2-3  hrs.     The  Citadel  (1560);  the  Fortes 
Roy  ale,  du  Havre,  and  de  la  Mer;  the  old  bastion  called 
Le  Courgain,  are  very  curious.    The  English  held  Calais 
from  1347  to  1558,  when  France  regained  possession. 
Mary  Tudor  said  the  name  Calais  Avould  be  found  writ- 
ten on  her  heart.     The  Ch.  of  Notre  Dame,  with  a  pic- 
ture by  Rubens  ;    the   Hotel  de  Ville,  on   the  Place 
d' Amies  ;  the  old  Gtiet  Totoer ;  and  tlie  Hotel  de  Guise 
(Tudor  style),  built  by  Edward  III.  and  his  successors, 
are  the  principal  sights.    The  Hotel  Bessin  is  mentioned  in 
Sterne's  Serdimental  Jourfiey.    Good  sea-bathing  in  sum- 
mer.    Erom  Calais  you  may  go,  via  Li'le,  to  Brussels. 
Boulogne  {Hotel  des  Bains  ;  De  la  Marine  ;  Meu- 
rice;  Continental;   de  Paris  et  de  Boulogne;  Cristol 
et  Bristol;  Louvre)  is  picturesque  town  on  the  Liane, 
where  it  enters  the  Channel.  Fashionable  summer  re- 
sort.   Has  many  English  residents.  The  Quais;  the 
Pier;  the  old  fishers'  town;  the  ancient  Po7'te  des 
Dunes,  with  a  statue  dated  1231 ;  the  clumsy  Cathedral 
of  Notre  Bame ;  the  Chateau  (1230),  where  Louis  Na^ 
poleon  was  confined  in  1840  ;  the  Hotel  de  Ville  ;  and 
the    great    Sea-Bathinq    Ef<tablishment,    merit    notice. 
Le  Sage,  author  of  Gil  Bias,  and  Godfrey  de  Bouillon 
were  born  here.     On  a  hill  is  the  Colonne  de  la  Grande 
Armee,  built  1804-41.     Here  Napoleon  I.  a^semb^-<id 
an  immense  army  and  fleet  for  invading  England 

Dieppe  {Boy at,  Grand,  Utrangers,  de  Paris,  Com- 


W2  HAYEE. 

mirce)  1^'  a  summer  resort  of  the  fashionable  world. 
See  the  Casino,  on  the  beach  ;  the  great  Castle  (1433); 
fche  ancient  Ch.  of  St.  Jacques,  patron  saint  of  fisher- 
men ;  the  piers  ;  and  the  Statue  of  Duquesne.  The 
bathing  is  fairly  good.  A  red  flag  is  hoisted  when 
the  tide  is  favorable.  Ruined  castle  of  Arcques, 
4  M.  S.  E.     Carved  ivory  is  a  specialty  of  Dieppe. 

Havre  {Hdtel  Frascafi ;  Be  Bordeaux;  Aigle 
d'Or;  Be  Normandie;  B  Angleterre),  once  known 
as  Havre  de  Grace,  from  a  chapel  founded  by 
Louis  XII.  in  1509,  is  one  of  the  most  important  sea- 
ports in  Europe,  About  100,000  inhab.  Immense 
American  trade.  The  Docks  are  remarkable.  The 
Jetee  du  Nord  commands  a  fine  view.  From  the  hill 
of  /SYe.  Adresse  the  outlook  is  charming.  The  prin- 
cipal things  to  see  are  :  The  Ch.  of  Notre  Dame  (1575); 
the  Hotel  de  Ville  ;  the  Palais  de  Justice  ;  the  Grand 
Treatre  ;  the  Customs  Barracks;  and  the  Museum  (open 
Sun.,  Tues.,  and  Thurs.,  from  10  to  4).  Bronze 
statues  (by  David)  of  Bernardin  de  St.  Pierre  and 
Casimir  de  la  Yigne,  natives  of  Havre.  Tlie  Jardin 
Publique  is  pretty.  Rue  de  Paris  is  the  finest  street. 
Steamers  w^eekly  to  New  York.  (See  Chapter  on 
Travel.)  Opposite  Havre,  in  a  pretty  bend  of  the 
coast  (1  hr.  by  steamer),  is  Trouville-sur-Mer 
{Hotel  des  Roches  Noires,  with  bathing  ;  .De  Paris; 
d'Angleterre;  des  Bains),with.  fine  Casino  (admission 
2  fr.)  and  beautiful  beach.  Great  number  of  villas 
here  and  at  Beauville.  Aristocratic  resort  in  Aug.  and 
Sept.  Near  Troii ville  is  a  cliapel  in  wbicli  William  the 
Conqueror  offered  prayer  before  he  set  out  to  conquer 
England-  1  hr.  by  rail  from  Trouville  is  Honjieur. 
Etretat,  .nuch  frequented  by  painters,  and  Fecamp,  a 
great  bathing  resort,  with  a  fine  Casino,  may  be  vis- 
ited from  Havre.  Eares  from  Havre  to  Paris,  28  fr. 
10  c,  21  fr.  5  c.,  15  fr.  45  c.    You  may  go  from  Havre  to 


NORTHERN  FRANCE.  183 

Kouen  by  the  Seine,  a  lovely  journey,  but  very  slow 
(fares,  5  fr.,  4  fr.). 

Rouen  {Hotel  d'Angleterre;  de  France;  d'AlMon; 
De  la  Poste;  Paris;  Lideux)  can  be  visited  on  the  way 
to  Paris  from  Havre  or  Dieppe;  the  commercial  rival 
of  Havre,  a  port  of  much  importance;  historically  and 
architecturally  one  of  the  most  attractive  places  in 
France.  This  ancient  capital  of  Normandy  has  great 
cotton  factories  and  wine  depots.  (105,000  inlmb.)  The 
Cathedral  of  ISloire  Dame  is  a  magnificent  Gotiiic  edi- 
fice, built  1207-80.  Tlie  central  portal  on  the  W. 
was  erected  by  Cardinal  d'Ainboise,  the  favorite  of 
Louis  XII.,  about  1510.  Profuse  decorations  in  liorid 
style.  The  Butter  Tower  {Tour  de  Beurre)  was  built 
with  money  got  from  the  sale  of  indulgences  to  eat 
butter  in  Lent.  This  is  230  ft.  high,  unfinished,  like  its 
twin.  The  central  spire  was  destroyed  by  lightning  in 
1822,  and  replaced  by  an  ugly  cast-iron  structure,  465 
ft.  high.  Spiral  staircase  to  the  top.  The  facade  (16th 
century)  contains  many  remarkable  statues  and  bits  of 
sculptures.  In  the  venerable  Tour  St.  Roiuain  is  a 
charming  15th-century  hall.  See  the  Choir ;  the  25 
chapels ;  the  beautiful  stained  windows,  especially  the 
rose  windows  in  the  nave  and  transepts ;  the  chaoel  S. 
of  the  nave,  which  contains  the  tomb  of  Hollo,  the 
first  Duke  of  Normandy  (927)  ;  and  the  chapel  oppo- 
site, ni  M^iicli  William  of  the  Long  Sword  (d.  943)  is 
buried.  In  the  Ghapelle  du  Christ,  near  the  High 
Altar,  is  a  mutilated  limestone  figure,  7  ft.  high,  of 
Richard  Coeur  de  Lion.  The  heart  of  the  great  king 
is  buried  in  the  Choir.  Henry  II.  of  England  is  buried 
here.  The  monument  to  Due  de  Breze,  erected  by 
his  wife,  Diana  of  Poitiers,  mistress  of  Henri  II. 
Also  one  to  Cardinal  d'Amboise  is  in  this  chapel  The 
r;a£hedral  was  begun  in  the  reign  of  Jean  sans  Terre, 


164  ROUEN. 

and  finished  in  1477.  Interior  is  435  ft.  long,  lieiglit  ot 
nave  89|  ft.,  130  windows. 

The  beautiful  Ch.  of  St.  Ouen  is  one  of  the  noblest 
Gothic  structures  in  Europe.  It  is  cruciform,  and  dates 
from  1318.  The  portal,  between  two  pyramidal  towers, 
is  extremely  graceful.  Central  Tower,  "  the  Crown  of 
Normandy,"  285  ft.  higli.  Interior,  443  ft.  long  by  83 
ft.  wide.  3  exquisite  rose  windows;  145  stained-glass 
windows.  This  ch.  suffered  much  from  tlie  Iconoclasts 
(in  1562),  as  also  did  the  bas-reliefs  over  the  entrance 
of  the  great  cathedral.  The  Ch.  of  St.  Maclou  (15th« 
16th  centuries)  has  a  very  fine  stone  spire,  and  a  foun- 
tain by  Jean  Goujon.  Other  chs.:  Si.  Patricia  (1535), 
magnificent  stained  glass  of  the  16th  century,  and  paint- 
ings by  Mignard  and  Poussin  ;  St.  Godard,  fine  mural 
paintings  ;  St.  Gervais,  with  a  crypt  of  the  4th  century. 
St.  Vincent  and  St.  Romain  also  merit  a  visit.  The 
Archiepiscopal  Palace  (1461)  and  the  Hotel  de  Ville, 
which  is  a  remnant  of  the  old  Abbey  of  St.  Ouen,  should 
be  visited  (library,  120,000  vols.).  In  front  of  the 
Hotel  de  Ville  is  an  equestrian  statue  of  Napoleon  I. 
Interesting  statues  of  Corneille,  Jeanne  d'Arc,  and  G6ri. 
cault.  Palace  of  Justice,  {concierge  shows  it,  If.)  is  a 
veritable  Gothic  chef-d''(&uvre.  Tlie  room  in  which  the 
assizes  is  held  has  a  carved  oaken  roof,  and  it  was 
there  that  the  Parliament  of  Normandy  held  ^*ts  sessions. 
On  the  1.  of  the  Courtyard  is  a  great  Hall,  built  in  1493 
as  a  merchants'  exchange.  It  is  now  the  place  where 
lawyers  meet  their  clients  to  consult.  The  Museum 
now  contains  hundreds  of  pictures  by  David,  Delacroix, 
Gericault,  Paul  Veronese,  Poussin,  and  other  celebrated 
artists.  Visit  the  Rue  de  la  Grosse  Horloge,  one  of  the 
most  interesting  streets  in  the  city.  The  old  clock- 
tower,  Math  a  gate  beneath,  dates  from  1527. 

The  most  interesting  section  of  Rouen  is  tlie  Place  de 


NORTHERN  FRANCE.  165 

ta  PuceUe,  where  a  fountain  marks  the  place  on  which 
Joan  of  Arc  is  said  to  have  been  burned,  in  1431.  The 
15th-century  Hotel  du  Bourgtheroidde  fronts  on  this 
square.  Curious  decorations  on  the  tower,  and  bas- 
reiiefs,  one  of  which  shows  the  Field  of  the  Cloth  of 
Gold.  In  the  Rue  Jeanne  d'Arc  is  a  Tower  (built 
1205),  subsequently  named  after  the  maid,  and  sup- 
posed to  have  been  her  prison.  The  Museum  of  An- 
tiquities and  the  Museum  of  Natural  History  are  in  an 
old  convent  near  the  Place  Beauvoisine.  The  town 
is  rich  in  old  houses  with  timber-fronts. 

The  Seine  here  is  a  large  river,  navigable  for  most 
ships,  and  bordered  by  fine  quays.  The  Coiu's  Bdiel' 
dieu  has  a  statue  of  Boieldieu,  the  composer,  a  native 
of  Rouen.  The  Seine  is  crossed  by  a  bridge,  adorned 
with  a  Statue  of  Corneille ;  and  by  a  suspension  bridge, 
at  whose  end  is  a  Monument  to  the  Abbe  de  la  Salle. 

The  surrounding  country  is  extremely  beautiful. 
Climb  tlie  adjacent  lulls,  especially  to  the  Pilgrimage 
Ch.  of  Bon-Secours,  2  M.  out.  Dehglitful  view  over 
Normandy.  The  service  in  the  ch.  is  peculiar.  Many 
pretty  excursions  by  steamer  on  the  Seine.  Visit 
the  Chateau  of  Robert  le  Liable,  near  La  Bouille. 
From  Rouen  to  Paris  the  fares  are  16  fr.  75  c,  12|  fr., 
9  fr.  20  c.  Rouen  may  be  easily  visited  in  a  day  from 
Paris  (fares,  16|  fr.,  12. |  fr.,  9  fr.  20  c),  returning  in  the 
afternoon.  At  Mantes  —  called  "beautiful  Mantes" — 
is  the  Gothic  Ch.  of  Notre  Dame,  of  the  12th  century, 
richly  sculptured.  Junction  here  for  Caen  and  Cher- 
bourg. Farther  on  is  Poissy,  the  birthplace  of  St. 
Louis,  a  lovely  town  on  the  Seine,  and  a  favorite  resort 
of  artists  (great  prison  here) ;  the  Forest  of  St.  Germain^ 
through  which  the  line  passes ;  Colombes  ;  St.  Germaifi, 
with  its  palace,  may  be  seen  on  the  r. ;  and  Asnieres,  a 
Varisian  suburb,  inhabited  by  commercial  people. 


166    AMIENS.  —  ABBEVILLE.  —  AEKAb, 

Amiens  {Hotel  de  V  Unimrs  /  Du  Rhin)  is  a  great 
Snanufacturiiiii'  tov/n  (80,000  inhab,),  once  the  capital 
of  Picardy.  See  Gothic  Cathedral,  erected  1220-88, 
and  one  of  tlie  finest  in  Europe.  The  spire  (422  ft. 
Iiigh)  was  restored  in  1529.  The  W.  fayade  is  one  of 
the  most  beautiful  that  can  be  imagined.  The  2  towers 
are  decorated  with  many  statues  and  medallions.  In 
i\\Q  Porche  du  Sauveur  is  a  magnificent  statue  of  Christ, 
commonly  called  Le  Beau  Bleu  d' Amiens.  Eew  cathe- 
dral interiors  excite  such  lively  admiration  for  pro- 
digious vaults,  lightness  of  the  colunrns,  and  astonishing 
variety  of  lines.  The  nave  is  147  ft.  high,  and  126 
columns  support  its  airy  vaulting.  See  organ  gallery 
(1422);  110  stalls  in  the  choir,  with  3,650  figures; 
superb  rose-window ;  stained-glass  windows ;  and  the 
great  number  of  monuments  and  chapels.  The  choir- 
wall  is  adorned  with  reliefs  from  the  history  of  John 
the  Baptist  and  the  life  of  St.  rirmin.  Length  of  the 
cathedral,  469  ft.;  of  transept,  213  ft.;  width  of  nave, 
144  ft.;  towers,  181  ft.  and  210  ft.  In  the  rear  is  a 
statue  of  Peter  the  Hermit,  a  native  of  Amiens,  who 
preached  the  Pirst  Crusade.  The  Picardy  Mmeum  con- 
tains interesting  pictures.  The  new  Palace  of  Justice^ 
and  the  Prefecture,  which  has  a  15th-century  belhtower, 
should  be  seen.  About  midway  between  Amiens  and 
Boulogne  is  Abbeville,  which  contains  many  odd  15tb 
and  16th  century  houses ;  also  the  Gh.  of  St.  Vulfran,  and 
a  statue  to  the  composer  Lesueur.  Pares  from  Amiens 
to  Paris,  16  fr.  10  c,  12  fr.  10  c,  8  fr.  85  c.  Rly.  connec- 
tion from  Amiens  with  Arras,  Douai,  and  Lille. 

Arras  {Hotel  de  V  Univers  ;  Gomrnerce)  has  a  double 
line  of  fortifications  ;  a  citadel  constructed  by  Vauban 
in  1670;  and  a  cathedral,  which  was  the  old  Ch.  of  the 
Abbey  of  St,  Vaast.  Within  it  are  seen  fine  pictures 
attributed  to  Rubens  and  Van  Dyck;  and  the  treasury 


NORTHERN   FRANCE.  167 

contains  the  robe  that  Thomas  a  Beclcet  wore  when  he 
was  assassinated.  The  great  square  of  Arras  is  a  fine 
ilhistration  of  the  pictorial  style  which  prevailed  during 
the  Spanish  domination.  Miisetim  and  Public  Library. 
The  coast  line  of  N.  France  is  dotted  with  pleasant 
summer-resorts  and  picturesque  towns,  old  and  new. 
From  Paris  to  Cherbourg  (fares,  45  fr.  70  c,  34  fr.  25  c, 
25  fr.  10  c),  via  Caen,  is  a  journey  through  the  inter- 
esting Norman  towns  of  Evreux  (fine  cathedral,  11th 
century,  restored  in  the  18th) ;  Lisieux  (cathedral^ 
1136-1233,  in  which  Henri  II.  was  married,  1152)'; 
and  Caen  {Hotel  d' Angleterre ;  IfEspagne),  population 
41,181,  the  town  of  which  Madame  de  Sevigne  said 
tiiat  it  was  the  source  "  de  lous  nos  plus  beaux  esprits." 
View  from  the  heights  very  imposing.  See  St.  Etienne 
and  Trinite  Chs. ;  the  G/idteau,  founded  by  William 
the  Conqueror ;  the  Hotel  de  Ville,  decorated  with 
medalUons  of  celebrated  Normans  ;  the  Museum  (400 
paintings)  ;  the  Academy ;  the  Hotel  de  Valois  /  and 
the  Place  de  la  Repuhlique.  You  can  reach  Caen 
from  Havre  by  steamer  (6  fr.7  5  fr.),  and  go  thence 
to  Cherbourg ;  and  thence  up  to  Paris,  if  de- 
sired. Cherbourg  y^Hotel  de  France;  de  VAviiraute 
et  de  V Europe),  a  city  of  37,000  inliab.,  on  die  peninsula 
of  Cotentin,  is  the  first  military  port  in  France,  and  a 
very  important  fortress.  There  is  little  to  see  beside 
the  docks  and  fortifications ;  and,  in  the  Museum,  a 
portrait  of  Leonardo  da  Yinci,  painted  by  himself. 
Fine  casino.  Granville,  farther  down  on  the  coast,  is 
the  port  whence  the  steamers  sail  for  the  Channel 
Islands.  Fares  from  Paris  to  Granville,  46  fr.  40  c, 
36  fr.  30  c.,  22  fr.  20  c.  Still  farther  down  is  Mt.  Saint 
Michel,  an  imposing  granite  rock,  2,700  ft.  around 
and  nearly  200  ft.  high,  connected  with  the  coast  by  a 
dike.     The  sea  surrounds  it  '<  '  hisrh  tide.     The  rock  is 


168  PARIS. 

surmounted  by  immense  fortifications,  an  abbey,  an(f  i, 
ch.,  with  a  statue  of  St.  Michael.  Pilgrimages  have 
been  made  here  since  Louis  XI.  created  St.  Micaael's 
Order,  in  1469.  St.  Malo,  near  by,  was  the  birth- 
place  of  Chateaubriand,  and  Jacques  Cartier,  the 
pioneer  in  Canada.  Dinan  is  a  pretty  little  town,  with 
old  walls  and  a  15th-century  castle.  Great  numbers  of 
English  people  winter  here.  Dinarcl,  4  M.  from  St. 
Malo,  has  a  fine  bathing  establishment.  The  line  to  Brest 
is  close  by.  Brest,  population  66,000,  is  a  military 
port  and  fortress.  Vast  marine  hospital,  and  barracks. 
Formidable  batteries.  Eares,  Brest  to  Paris,  75  fr.  10  c, 
56  fr.  35  c,  41  fr.  35  c.  On  the  way  see  Chartres 
{^Hotel  de  France;  J)u  Grand  Monarque),  an  ancient 
city,  with  celebrated  Cathedral,  the  towers  of  which 
can  be  seen  for  25  M,  Upon  this  noble  Gothic  ch., 
which  was  160  years  in  building,  there  are  many  thou- ' 
sands  of  statues ;  there  are  50  bas-reliefs  in  the  choir, 
and  marvellous  stained  windows  of  the  12th  and  13th 
centuries.  Henri  IV.  was  consecrated  in  this  ch.  in 
1594.  2  spires,  one  371  ft.,  the  other  340  ft.  high. 
There  is  a  Black  Virgin  here,  much  adored.  The  Crypt 
is  beautiful.  Many  odd  13th-century  houses  here. 
Gen.  Marceau  was  a  native  of  Chartres.  The  MuseuTi, 
contains  a  noted  picture  representing  his  funeral. 

Paris. 

Paris,  with  the  exception  of  the  old  sections,  is  a 
very  easy  city  in  which  to  find  one's  way  about.  In 
summer  street-merchants  are  always  at  your  elbow 
with  very  good  maps,  "with  which  you  can  explore  the 
capital,  even  if  you  know  no  French.  If  you  arrive  at 
the  Gnre  du  Nord  (N.  Rly.  stat.),  and  are  not  encum- 
bered with  baggage,  walk  dowii^the  Rue  at  Lafayette 


PAEIS.  169 

to  the  Grand  Opera  and  the  Bouleva-fd  Haiissmann  ; 
then  turn  up  the  Rue  Scribe  to  the  main  boulevards, 
and  you  will  find  yourself  in  the  centre  of  Paris. 
If  you  come  in  from  Normandy,  you  will  arrive  at 
the  Oare  St.  Lazare,  but  a  short  walk  from  the  boule- 
vards. In  the  Stat,  your  baggage  is  examined  both 
for  general  customs  and  octroi  duties.  Spirits  and 
cigars  are  the  only  things  about  which  the  officers 
are  strict.  A  porter  will  take  your  trunk  or  valises, 
call  a  cab,  install  you  in  it,  give  you  a  little  card  with 
the  cab's  number  on  it,  and  for  this  expects  about 
50  c.  (10  cts.).  If  you  have  a  party,  and  several  large 
trunks,  charter  a  small  private  omnibus  (always 
plenty).  One  that  will  hold  6  persons  costs  6  f r. ,  and 
no  extra  charge  is  made  for  a  reasonable  amount  of 
baggage.      Driver  expects  fee. 

Cabs  ( Voitures) — The  cab  system  of  Paris  is  simple 
and  covenient.  From  6  a.m.  until  12.30  p.m.  a  1-horse 
open  or  closed  carriage  for  2  persons  costs,  according  to 
legally  established  tariff,  l-^-f r.  for  single  drive ;  gvsi- 
tuitj (pourboire),  rendered  obligatory  by  custom,  25c. ; 
by  hr.,  2fr.  Prom  12.30  night  until  6  a.m.  the  tariflp 
is  for  2 -seated  cabs,  2Jfr,  per  drive,  2iti\  per  hr. ;  4- 
seated,  2^tr.  per  drive,  2ffr.  per  hr.  The  whole  of  a 
first  hr.  (when  you  engage  by  the  hr.)  must  always 
be  paid ;  ^  hrs.  thereafter,  50c.  each.  Baggage  (out- 
side), 25c.  per  piece.  Livery-stable  rates  per  day  and 
per  month  for  carriages  are  rather  high  from  May  to 
Aug  ;  with  a  little  care  a  good  open  carriage  for  two 
(driver  in  livery)  may  be  had  for  25-30ir.  per  day; 
gratuity  to  driver. 

The  taximeter  is  now  in  almost  universal  use.  The 
charges  are:  For  1200  metres,  or  9  min.,  75c. ;  every 
additional  400  metres,  or  3  min.,  10c. ;  for  passing  the 
fortifications,  50c.;  leaving  cab  outside  fortifications, 
If r.  For  night  service  (after  midnight)  there  is  an  ad- 
ditional charge  of  50c.  Tip  driver  at  rate  of  50c.  per 
nr.,  but  never  less  tlian  }ioc.  lor  any  uiive  or  uistauce. 


170  PARIS 

Street-Cars  (called  tramways)  run  on  most  of  the  great 

tlioroughfares,  except  the  grand  boulevards.  'L'hej  aie  double. 
decked;  the  large  ones  are  very  tine.  Go  to  the  suburbs 
upon  them  rathe^r  than  by  rail  or  in  private  carriage.  Om- 
nibuses abound  ;  there  are  32  liues.  A  full  fare  paid  on 
®nc  procures  you.  a  corrfsjiondance  gratis  on  another,,  imtii 
you  have  reatdicd  your  destination.  Fares  inside,  30  c. ; 
above,  outside,  15  c.  On  some  streets  the  tramway  cars  are 
moved  by  steam.  On  the  Seine  there  are  a  great  many 
small  steamers.,  fnjlpfi  mnnaJip.'^  •i\wi[  himnrlpHes,  "flies"  and 
"*■  swallows."  TMe  Metropolitan  underground  rlyo  is  con= 
venient.  The  Ccintxire  is  the  name  of  the  railv/ay  which 
runs  around  Paris,  within  the  walls  (23  M.)„  It  is  usefui 
for  giving  a  good  idea  of  the  capital 's  geography.  Round 
trip  in  two  hours. 

Hotels.— ITo^eZ  d'lena,  Astoria,  Place  de  I'Etoile; 
Hotel  Bitz,  Hotel  Bristol,  Place  Vendome,  both  expen- 
sive, aristocratic ;  Elysee  Palace ;  Hotel  Continental;  Cos- 
tiglione,  Ruede  Castiglione;  Montana,  Ruede  i'Echelle; 
Voiiillemont ;  Hotel  du  Louvre,  Rue  de  Rivoli ;  Grand  Hotel, 
Boulevard  des  Capucines;  Terminus,  Gare  St.  Lazare; 
Vendome,  Place  Yendome;  Regina,  Meurice,  Windsor, 
Brighton,  Rue  de  Rivoli;  Grand  Hotel  St.  James,  de  Lille 
ei  d''Anbion,  de  Normandie,  Rue  St.  Honore;  Westvni'Jister,, 
Miraheau,  Splendide,  Rue  de  la  Paix;  de  Londres,  Domi' 
nici,  Liverpool,  Rue  Castiglione;  Chatham,  de  VEmpiy^e, 
de  VAmiraute,  d^Orient,  Rue  Daunou  (Rue  Neuve  St.  Au. 
gustin);  Normandy,  des  Deux  Mondes,  and  Binda,  in  the^ 
Avenue  de  I'Opera;  du  Palais,  Cours  La  Reine;  d^JLlbe, 
Avenue  de  I'Alma;  de  St.  Petershourg,  Rue  Caumartin; 
de  VAthenee,  Rue  Scribe ;  de  Bade,  Boulevard  des  ItaL 
iens ;  de  la  Terrasse  Jouffroy,  Boulevard  Montmartre ;  de 
Baviere,  Rue  du  Conservatoire ;  des  Amhassadeurs,  Rue 
de  Lille ;  de  Londres,  Rue  Bonapartej  du  Senat,  Rue  de 
Tournon.  More  modest  hotels  ai'e  Hotel  d'' Oxford  et  de 
Camhridge;  de  la  Tamise,  Rue  d'Alger;  de  la  Couronne,  Rue 
du  Dauphin;  Trots  Princes,  Rue  Neuve  des  Petits  Champs; 
d'Antin,  Rue  d' Antin;  Helder,  Rue  du  Helder;  Byron,  Rue 


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PABIS.  171 

Laffitte ;  Du  Canada,  Rue  de  Choiseul ;  De  France,  Rue 
de  Beaune ;  Des  Etrangcrs,  Rue  Racine. 

Boarding-Houses  (or  Pensimis)  .—Ot  these  there 
are  many.  Prices,  10-15  francs  daily.  We  give  the  ad- 
dresses of  a  few :  Madame  Barbier,  42  Quai  des  Orffevres; 
Madame  Russell,  6  Square  de  l'0p6ra;  M.  and  Mme. 
Pincet,  35  Rue  Cambon ;  Mrs.  Defone,  52Ms  Boulevard 
Haussmann ;  Prof.  Tonnst,  same  address ;  Mme.  Starck, 
30  Rue  Bassano ;  Hotel  Campbell,  61  Avenue  de  Fried- 
land  ;  American  Pension,  7  Avenue  du  Trocadero ;  the 
Misses  McDonnell,  90  Rue  de  la  Pompe  ;  Hotel  Dijon,  39 
Rue  0«^jmartin.  Furnished  single  rooms  can  be  had  in 
all  quarters  of  Paris,  at  from  40  to  135  francs  per  month. 
Furnished  suites  of  rooms  (in  French,  apartcnient  signi- 
fies a  sai^e)  from  250  francs  per  month  upwards.  Always 
inquire  particularly  aboiit  extras,  even  in  the  best  pen- 
sions, otherwise  you  may  be  surprised  when  the  bill  is 
presented.       ^ 

Restaurants  and  Cafes.— Cafe  de  Londres,  Boulevard 
Madeleine,  25 ;  Cafe  Anglais,  13  Boulevard  des  Italiens ; 
Cafe  Biche,  16  same  street ;  Maison  Doree,  20  same  street; 
Vidal,  41  Avenue  de  I'Opera;  Noel  Peters,  Passage  des 
Princes;  J5reba?xt,  31  Boulevard  Poissonnifere;  d%la  Terrace, 
30  Boulevard  Bonne  Nouvelle;  BonvaleVs,  Boulevard  du 
Temple  ,*  Cafe  de  la  Palx,  near  the  Grand  Opera  ;  Maire, 
14  Boulevard  St.  Denis ;  Cafe  de  Paris,  41  Avenue  de 
I'Opera ;  Moka,  44  and  46  Avenue  Wagram ;  Gaillon,  Place 
Gaillon ;  Restaurant  de  France,  9  Boulevari  Poissonnifere ; 
Restaurant  des  Amhassadeurs,  in  the  Charaps  Elysees; 
Champeaux^o  Place  de  la  Bourse ;  Durand,  2  Place  de  la 
Madeleine ;  Magny,  3  Rue  Muzet ;  Foyot,  33  Rue  de  Tour- 
non;  Restattrant  de  la  Porte-Doree,  Avenue  Daumesnil. 
275;  CampelVs,  370  Rue  St.-Honore.  These  are  all  d  la 
carte.  Som^  of  these  places  are  rather  expensive ;  the 
others  more  moderate.  In  the  Palais  Royal  and  the 
Passage  des  Panoramas,  and  on  the  Boulevard  Mont- 
martre,  are  several  restaurants  where  breakfasts  and 
dinners  at  fixed  prices  may  be  had.  At  the  Diner  de 
Paris,  13  Boulevard  Montmartre,  breakfast  is  3  f r. ;  dinner, 


172  PARIS 

5  f  r.  Wine  is  always  included  in  fixed-price  dinners. 
I'lie  Diner  Europeen  is  very  good  :  breakfast,  3  fr  f 
dinner,  5  f  r.  In  the  Palais  Royal  there  aremumerou<i 
restaurants  that  give  breakfast  at  1  f^.  ,75  c. ;  dinner, 
2  fr,  25  c.  to  2  f r.  50  c.  The  Duval  Restaurants,  or 
Etablissements  de  Bouillon,  are  peculiar.  There  is 
but  a  limited  choice  of  dishes,  but  everything  is  well 
prepai'ed  and  moderately  cheap.  The  Parisians  break- 
fast 10.30-1,  and  dine  6-8.  We  calinot  mention  one 
third  of  the  principal  cafes,  but  will  recomm'end  the 
Cafe  Anglais,  Tortoni^  Q-rand,  Arrnvmaiyi,  HeWjer^ 
Madrid,  Riche,  Varietes,  De  Paris,  NavoUtain.  In  the 
Bois.  restaurants  :  Pamlloii  d' Armenonville,  la  Ot^cade, 
Madrid.  Ladies  with  escorts  m&y  visit  most  ,of  the 
cafes  mentioned  above,  even  in  the  evening. 

General  Information. — The  Ambassador  of  the 
United  States  is  the  Hon.  Robert  Ba&on,;  the  Secre- 
tary of  Embassy  is  Mr.  Arthur  BaQlv  Blanchard. 
The  present  Consul-Geaeral  at  Paris  Ifs  Mr.  Frank 
Mason.  American  church  serviees  :  Rue  de  Berrry, 
31;  Avenue  de  lAlma,  19  (Episcbpal). 

The  Latin  (Quarter,  S.  of  the  Seine,  has  for  centuries  beeu 
devoted  to  universities,  colleges,  and  schools  of  all  kinds. 
Many  thousands  of  students  reside  there  alMhe  time.  The 
Students'  Ball,  called  the  Chserle  des  LUas,^t  Bullier,  is  at 
the  Carvi'four  de  V  Ohservatoire.  ^ 

There  are  three  principal  race  meetings  in  Paris,  in  April, 
May,  and  September.  The  spectacle  in  the  Bois  de  Boulogne 
when  the  Grand  Frix  (the  principal  summer  race)  is  run, 
should  not  be  missed.     The  principal  prize  is  100,000  fr. 

We  would  suggest  that  yoa  start  from  the  Place  de 
la  Concorde,  walk  up  the  Rue  Roy  ale  to  tlie  Cli.  of  the 
Madeleine  (Magdalen),  and  then  follow  the  line  of 
the  grands  boulevards  to  tlie  Place  de  la  Bastille. 
You  may  go  on  an  omnibus-top  for  S  sous,  or  in  an  opcB 
carriage  for  1  fr.  75c. ;  but  we  say  walk. 


PARIS  173 

Boik,^vard  des    Capucines    (this   is    mid -Paris; 
here  are  the   Grand   Hotel,   the   Opera,  the  Grand' 
Cafe,    the   Jockey    Club,    and    the    Bue    Scribe) ; 
Des  lialiens  (ji^lliant  with  theatres  and  restaurants) ; 
Montmartre  (splendid  cafes  and  shops)  ;  Poissoniere ; 
Bonne-Nouvelle ;    St.    Denis   (see  the  old  city  gates, 
\^ery  fine};  St.  Martin  ;  J)u  Temple  ;  Des  Fille's  du  CaU 
vaire ;  ^Beaumarchms, — and  you   are   at  the  Bastille, 
i.  e.   th^quare' wliere    the   celebrated   prison   stood. 
Whole  lengtW"  tijis'hne  of  streets,  2f  M.     Return  by 
the  Rue  SfAntoine,  and  the  Rue  de  Rivoli,  past 
the  Tii^ieries,  to  the  Place  de  la  Concorde,  whence  yon 
started.^  The  exteriot  boulevards  run  from  near  the 
Arc  de  TrjomphAat  the  Ternes,  around  to  the  quays 
of  Bercy  on  thj^SSeine,  through  La  Yillette  and  Belle- 
ville, the  W(di1^^yij.%  quarters.     Tramways  here.     The 
Boulevard's^'dit^Strasbourg,  Sebastopol,  Du  Palais,  and 
St.  ]\(y^li'eWorm  a  coni^uous  avenue  from  the  Eastern 
Rly.  st^t.  across  tlieAity  to  the  Observatory.     A  walk 
from  "one  end  to  H^e  other  is  extremely  interesting. 
A  Jv;isit  to  one  of'' tile  "cabarets  artistiques,"  which 
hiive   reeent^i^pru^ig  up  in   Montmartre.    is    well 
worth  whili^^ee  description  in  "Paris-Parisien," 
an  excelienr^kide  to  these  and  other  noteworthy 
sights  -dlfParisr^fc 

Th.Q  Iste  de  la  Cite  on  which  Paris  began,  should 
have  an  early  visit.  Notre  Dame,  the  cathedral  of  the 
Archbishop  of  Paris,  was  built  in  1163-82,  on  the  site 
of  a  4th-century  ch.  It  is  417  ft.  long,  156  wide,  and 
110  high.  Twin  lowers,  264  ft  The  fa9ade  (13th 
century) ,>  with  its  rich  Gothic  sculptures  and  crowds 
of  statuary  over  the  portals,  is  very  imposing.  The 
carvings  over  the  central  entrance  represent  the  Lasi 


174       NOTRE  DAME-PALACE  DE  JUSTICE 

Judgment.  Entrance  by  1.  portal.  In  the  Revolu- 
tion, in  1793  the  ch.  was  converted  into  a  "  Temple 
of  Reason."  During  the  Commune  it  v/as  a  military 
depot.  Most  of  the  sculptures  were  broken  at  the 
time  of  the  Revolution.  Choir  completed,  12th  cen- 
tury ;  W.  portion,  in  13th,  The  interior,  with  its  nav& 
and  double  aisles,  is  majestic.  Many  famous  prelates 
are  buried  in  the  choir-chapels.  75  pillars  support 
the  vaulting.  Splendid  rose-windows  in  fh^  transept. 
37  chapels.  Fine  pulpit,  by  VioUet-le-Duc,  in  the  nave. 
The  Treasury  (fee,  \h?)  may  be  inspected.  The  robei 
in  which  Archbishop  Darboy  was  shot  by  the  Com,, 
munists  is  shown.  To  ascend  the  towers  (fee,  20c.)j 
go  round  to  N .  side  of  1.  front  tower,  and  ring  the  bell. 
In  the  S.  tower  is  the  huge  Bourdon  bell.  Note  the 
curiously  carved  figures  of  men  and  animals  on  the  roof. 
The  effect  of  the  flying  buttresses  below  is  very  strik* 
ing.  See  Victor  Hugo's  Notre' Dame  de  Paris,  for  an 
eloquent  description  of  the  cathedral.  The  view  from 
the  towers  is  the  best  in  Paris.  In  a  bright  summer-day 
it  IS  bewildering,  from  its  very  vastness.  Just  behind 
Notre  Dame  is  the  Morgue,  or  Dead  House,  m'\\qtq  you 
may  view  unclaimed  bodies.  It  is  open  to  the  pubhc. 
Prom  the  cathedral's  top  observe  the  new  Hotel  Dieu^ 
an  immense  hospital ;  the  Fontaiyie  Notre  Dante,  the 
Place  du  Parois,  and  the  Flower  Market.  The  old  Ho- 
tel Dieu  (660)  has  been  demolished. 

While  you  are  in  the  Cite,  go  to  see  the  Palais  de 
Justice  (magnificent  new  additions)  ;  and  the  prison 
of  the  Conciergerie,yvh.QYQ  Marie  Antoinette  and  so  man^? 
other  victims  of  the  Revolution  were  imprisoned. 
The,  Palais  de  Justice  is  open  daily,  except  Sundays ; 
and  here  most  of  the  Courts  of  Justice  may  be  visited 
(guide,  1-2  fr.).  The  Cour  d'Honneur  is  very  fine* 
The  great  Salle  des  Pas-Perdus,  255  ft.  long,  is  whera 


PARIS.  175 

mystery-plays  were  performed.  See  Hugo's  Noire 
Dame.  The  Sainte  Chapeile  (open  daily  12-4,  except 
Mon.  and  Eri.)  is  a  nobly  beautiful  specimen  of  Gothic 
(1245-4S).  Note  the  magnificent  stained  glass  filling 
the  sides  of  the  Upper  Chapel.  The  Mass  of  the  Holy, 
Ghost  is  celebrated  here  once  a  year.  Opposite  the' 
Palais  de  Justice  is  the  Tribunal  de  Commerce,  a  beauti- 
ful Renaissance  building,  IS 60-66  (open  daily).  Ob- 
serve the  old  Clock  Tower  of  the  Palais  de  Justice,  one  of 
the  few  remnants  of  the  original  edifice.  See  the  Place 
Daiq^hine,  and  the  equestrian  Slatue  of  Henri  IV.  near 
by.     Good  view  of  the  Louvre  from  the  Pont  Neuf. 

Churches  of  Interest. — The  Pantheon  (1764- 
90),  on  high  ground,  on  the  spot  where  Genevieve,  the 
patron  saint  of  Paris,  was  buried  in  512.  The  Con- 
stituent Assembly  made  a  Pantheon  out  of  it ;  and  the 
Catholics  never  permanently  regained  their  place  of 
worship.  Inscription  on  pediment:  Aux  grands  hommes 
la  patrie  reconnaissante.  Noble  dome  (272  ft.)  ;  ascend 
it  for  view.  Interior  decoration  of  dome,  by  Gros,  fine. 
Portico  of  22  Corinthian  columns,  81  ft.  high.  Small 
fee  for  admission  to  crypts,  where  are  the  tombs  of 
Voltaire,  Rousseau,  Lannes,  Bougainville,  and  other 
noted  men.  t<t.  Etienne  du  Mont  (1 51 7)  near  the  Panthe- 
on, has  some  matchless  stained  glass  of  the  IGtli  cen- 
tury. The  Polytechnic  School  is  in  the  rear.  St.  Ger-. 
main  1' Auxerrois  is  opposite  the  Louvre  front.  From 
its  belfry  the  signal  for  the  massacre  of  St.  Bartholomew 
was  sounded.  Note  the  oval  arches  of  tiie  porch  (1435). 
Eayade  15th  and  16th  centuries,  Rich  modern  frescos 
and  interesting  chapels  inside.  5'/.  Germain  des  Pres 
is  on  Rue  Bonaparte  ;  built  1001-1163,  as  the  ch.  of  a 
powerful  abbe-/.  Inside  are  admirable  and  extensive 
frescos  by  the  celebrated  Plandrin ;  ancient  monu- 
ments in  choir  and  nave.     St.  Eustache  is  near  thtj 


176  THE  MADELEINE. 

Halles  Centrales  (1532-1637)  ;  Gothic,  with  Greuan 
W.  front.  Interior  beautifully  decorated.  Suftered 
much  damage  in  the  Commune,  when  it  was  used  as  a 
"  Club."  Remarkable  marbles.  St.  Roch,  on  Rue 
St.  Honore.  Exterior  plain,  interior  rich ;  famous 
music.  Here  Napoleon  I.  planted  his  cannon,  anci 
blew  the  French  Revolution  into  space  ;  vide  Carlyle. 
—  Notre  Dame  de  Lorette,  Rue  de  Cliateaudun,  is  the 
ch.  that  Thiers  was  buried  from.  The  Trinile,  Place 
of  same  name ;  new  (1867),  very  elegant  and  rich. 
St.  Vincent  de  Paul,  Rue  de  Lafayette.  —  The  brilham 
new  Rusua'ri  Ch.,  near  the  Pare  de  Monceaux.  Inter, 
esting  service  here.  The  Val  de  Grace,  Rue  St.  Jacques, 
wonderfully  decorated  with  paintings  by  Mignard 
St.  Sulpice,  S.  of  the  Seine,  a  vast  and  richly  decorate>Dt 
ch.,  with  towers  230  ft.  high,  and  statues  of  Sts.  Petei 
and  Paid,  La  Sorbonne,  adjoining  the  great  university, 
contains  the  Tomb  of  Cardinal  Richelieu. 

The  Madeleine,  the  most  beautiful  edifice  in  Paria, 
is  in  the  style  of  a  Greek  temple,  330  ft.  long,  130  wide, 
and  100  high,  surrounded  by  Corinthian  columns.  In  the 
colonnade  are  niches  containing  figures  of  saints.  Cou- 
ture contributed  to  the  designs.  The  pediment,  120  X 
25,  represents  the  Last  J udgment.  The  bronze  doors 
are  subjects  from  the  Old  Testament.  On  Grand 
Altar,  tlie  Assumption,  in  white  marble ;  and  painting 
of  Magdalen  at  the  feet  of  Christ.  Plower-market  on 
each  side  of  the  cli.,  Tues.  and  Fri.  Very  fine  music. 
Sun.  St.  Augustin,  Boulevard  Malesherbes,  contains 
many  fine  pamtiugs. — The  Chapelle  Expiaioire,  Rue 
d'Anjou,  is  to  the  memory  of  Louis  XVI.  and  his 
Queen,  and  other  victims  of  the  Revolution.  The 
Dew  Ste.  Clotilde,  Place  Bellechasse,  and  St.  Pierre 
de  Montmartre,  are  worth  seeing.  Notre  Daine  de 
Bonnes  Nouvelles,  on  the  summit  of  Montmartre,  is  a 
new  church  and  one  of  the  larijest  in  Paris. 


PARIS.  177 

The  Palaces.  —  The  best  place  from  which  to  see 
the  imposing  front  of  the  Louvre  is  the  park  before 
St,  Germain.  The  Colonnade  was  constructed  in  1685, 
on  the  E.  fafade.  The  central  portion  of  this  front 
is  known  as  the  Pavilion  Henri  Quutre.  See  statues 
of  Napoleon  I.'s  generals  on  the  Rohan  Pavilion.  The 
interior  courtjard  is  an  architectural  marvel.  See 
the  86  colossal  statues  of  illustrious  Frenchmen  in  the 
Square  du  Louvre.  The  entrance  to  the  Museums, 
which  are  among  the  richest  and  most  remarkable  in 
Europe,  is  through  a  door  on  the  1.,  coming  from  the 
Cour  du  Louvre,  under  the  Sully  Pavilion,  and  through 
the  Pavilion  Denon,  in  the  middle  of  the  N.  fafade  of 
the  building  erected  by  Napoleon  III,  Collections 
open,  free,  daily,  except  Mon.,  in  summer,  9-5  ;  in 
tvdnter,  10-4.  A  few  of  the  sculpture  rooms  and  col- 
lections of  antiquities  are  not  opened  until  1  p.m. 
Guides  2  fr.  an  lir.,  but  the  catalogues  will  enable 
most  visitors  to  find  their  way  about.  The  Venus 
of  Milo,  the  Felterecl  Slaves  of  Michael  Angelo,  the 
Mona  Lisa  of  Leonardo  da  Vinci,  and  a  noble  group 
of  the  works  of  llaphael,  Titian,  and  Yeronese  are 
the  chief  treasures.  Li  one  gallery  tliere  are  21  large 
pictures  by  Rubens. .  The  Salon  Carre  contains  the 
most  striking  works  of  art.  Tliere  are  2,000  paintings 
in  the  Louvre.  See  the  Apollo  Gallery  (Henri  IV.), 
with  plafond  by  Delacroix.  The  Marine  and  Chiiiese 
Museums  should  not  be  omitted.  The  Palace  of  the 
Tuileries,  begun  in  1564  by  Philibert  de  Lorme  for 
Catherine  de  Medicis,  is  now  gone,  the  site  being 
a  garden.  It  was  almost  entirely  destroyed  during 
the  Communal  insurrection  of  1871  The  wdiole  front 
w^as  so  utterly  ruined  that  restoration  was  considered 
out  of  the  question.  The  Pavilion  de  Flore  and  the 
GaUery  on  the  Seine  bank  unite  the  Louvre  with  the 


178  PALAIS   DU   LUXEMBOURG. 

Tuileries.  Eine  sculptures  by  Cavelier  and  Carpeaux, 
The  courtyard  is  tiie  Place  du  Carrousel.  It  takes  its 
name  from  a  carousal,  or  ball,  lield  there  by  Louis  XIV, 
in  1662.  The  Triumphal  Arch  which  stands  here  is  an 
imitation  of  the  Arch  of  Severus  at  Rome,  and  was 
erected  by  Napoleon  I.  to  commemorate  his  victories 
of  1805-6.  It  was  originally  crowned  with  the  horses 
taken  from  the  portal  of  St.  Mark's  Ch.  in  Venice, 
font  these  were  sent  back  to  Italy  by  the  Emperor  Eran- 
cis  in  1814.  Bonaparte,  when  French  Consul,  lived 
there ;  and  Louis  XVIIL,  Charles  X.,  Louis  Phi- 
lippe, and  Napoleon  III.  made  it  their  home.  Read 
Carlyle's  account  of  the  attack  on  the  Tuileries  by  a 
mob  of  40,000  rioters  in  1792.  In  front  is  the  Tuile- 
ries Garden,  2,340  ft.  long,  vrhich  extends  to  the 
Place  de  la  Concorde,  and  in  summer  is  a  delightful 
resort  thronged  with  people.  Military  music  twice  a 
week  in  summer.  The  Terrasse  des  Feuillants,  on 
the  N.  side,  is  a  pleasant  promenade. 

The  Palais  du  Luxembourg  was  built  1615-20^^' 
and  enlarged  in  1804.  It  was  once  a  royal  habitation, 
a  prison  during  the  Revolution,  the  palace  of  the-. 
Directory  and  the  Consulate,  and  is  now  the  meet- 
ing-place of  the  Senate  of  the  Republic.  Chapel  and 
museum  open  daily  (except  Mon.),  10-4.  The  Little 
Luxembourg ,  supposed  to  have  been  built  by  Marie  de 
Medicis,  is  near  by.  The  collections  were  (until  1875) 
next  in  importance  to  the  Louvre.  The  Luxembourg- 
Museum  was  long  the  halting-place  for  pictures  of  dis* 
tinguished  native  artists.  Galleries  of  paintings  open 
daily  (Mon.  excepted),  9-5  in  summer;  Sun., and  Eri., 
10-4.  In  the  garden,  where  m.ilitary  music  is  played 
on  Sun.,  Tues.,  and  Thurs.  afternoons,  there  is  a  fine 
fountain,  and  statues  of  celebrated  Erenchwomen. 

The  Palais  Royal  is  always  interesting  to  strangers. 


PARIS.  179 

It  was  built  1625-34  for  Cardinal  Richelieu.  The 
famous  galleries,  which  now  form  such  a  charming 
promenade,  and  are  filled  Avitli  attractive  shops,  were 
built  by  Philippe-Egalite.  The  Theatre  of  the  ComSdie 
Frangaise  is  adjacent  to  the  palace.  It  was  destroyed 
by  fire  on  March  8,  1900,  but  has  been  rebuilt. 

The 'Palais  de  I'Elysee,  having  facades  on  the 
Faubourg  St.  Honore  and  the  Champs  Elysees,  is  at 
present  the  residence  of  the  President  of  the  Repubhc. 
It  was  built  in  171S,  and  restored  under  Napoleon  I. 
Fine  old  garden  on  the  Cbamps-Elysees  side.  The 
Palais  Bourbon,  in  which  the  Corps  Legislatif  held 
its  sessions  under  Napoleon  III.,  was  built  for  the 
Duchess  of  Bourbon  in  1722.  Fine  peristyle 'fronting 
on  the  Seine,  with  12  Corinthian  columns  and  flight 
of  steps  decorated  with  colossal  statues.  The  Hotel 
dela  Presidence  is  near  by.  The  Palais  d'Orsay  was 
partly  destroyed  in  May,  1871. 

The  two  Palaces  of  Fine  Arts,  the  Gravid 
Palais  and  the  Petit  Palais,  occupy  the  triangle 
between  the  Champs  Elysees  and  the  Seine,  where 
formerly  v.^as  the  Palais  de  Vlndustrie.  This  was 
used  for  the  first  international  exhibition  in  Paris  in 
1855,  and  since  then  until  its  demolition  the  annual 
Salon  was  held  there.  Here  also  is  the  approach  to 
the  handsome  Pont  Alexandre  III.,  the  memorial 
stone  of  which  was  laid  by  the  Tsar  Nicholas  II.,  in 
1896.  In  the  Avenue  Montaigne  is  the  Palais  Pom- 
peien,  built  for  Prince  Napoleon  after  the  one  of 
Diomed  at  Pompeii.     Admission  1-2  fr. 

The  Palace  of  the  Institute,  on  the  site  of  the  oli 
Hotel  de  Nesle,  was  completed  in  1662.  It  is  an  odd 
structure,  with  a  Corinthian  porch  adorned  with  figures 
of  lions  and  with  fountains.  During  the  Revolution 
it  was  a  prison.  The  academy  holds  its  sessions 
here.     The  annual  meeting  of  the  five  departments 


180  BOIS  DE  BOULOGNE 

Bombined  is  held  in  Aug.  in  the  Great  Hall.  2  fine 
libraries.  The  Mazarine  Library  (200,000  vols.)  is 
open  to  the  public  10-4  (except  Sun.). 

The  Palais  des  Beaux-Arts,  in  the  Rne  Bonaparte, 
Is  the  seat  of  the  School  of  the  Pine  Arts,  founded  in 
1648  (open  daily,  10-4;  fee,  1  fr.).  On  the  railing 
which  separates  the  court  from  the  Rue  Bonaparte  are 
colossal  busts  of  Puget  and  Poussin.  Near  the  Inva- 
Udes,  in  Hue  de  Grenelle,  is  the  Archbishop's  Palace. 

The  quaint  mediseval  Hotel  de  Cluny  (founded 
about  1500),  Hue  du  Sommerard,  contains  about  4,000 
objects  in  marble,  wood,  stone,  ivorj;  enamels,  terra- 
cotta, prints,  stained  glass,  pottery,  etc.  (catalogue  at 
the  door).  The  old  Palais  des  Thermes,  which  fronts 
on  the  Boulevard  St.  Michel,  was  built  by  Constantius 
Chlorus  and  by  Julian  the  Apostate,  who  has  left  on 
record  his  predilection  for  spending  part  of  his  time  in 
his  "  dearLutetia"  (open  daily,  11-4.30).  The  Musee 
Mmiicipal,  at  the  Hotel  Carnavalet,  Rue  Sevigne,  can 
be  visited  with  an  order.  A  library  of  45,000  vols., 
composed  of  works  relative  to  the  history  of  the  city  of 
Paris,  is  here. "  The  interesting  Artillery  Museum  is  at 
the  Hotel  des  Invalides  (open  Tues.,  Tl^urs.,  and  Sun. 
in  summer,  12-3).  The  Mint  Museum,  on  the  Quai 
Conti,  may  be  visited  Tues.  and  Pri.  (12-3),  by  order. 

Parks  and  Gardens.  —  The  Bois  de  Boulogne 
is  the  cliief  park  of  the  French  capital,  and  comprises 
a  tract  of  about  2,250  acres,  of  which  70  are  artificial 
lakes,  just  opposite  the  fortifications,  and  extending 
along  the  banks  of  the  Seine.  The  Bois  is  connected 
with  the  Champs  Elysees  by  several  magnificent  ave- 
nues ;  and  the  principal  one,  the  Avenue  du  Bois  de 
Boulogne,  is  4,200  ft.  long  and  315  ft.  wide.  The 
drive  Around  the  Lake  is  the  rendezvous  of  the  fashion 
of  the  capital,  in  winter  from  3  to  5  o'clock,  and  of 


PARIS.  181 

strangers  from  all  parts  of  tlie  world  in  summer  from 
5-8  o'clock.  The  Cascade;  the  Field  of  Longchamps, 
on  which  races  and  reviews  are  held;  the  Jardin 
d'Acdimatation  (zoological  gardens) ;  Model  Dairy, 
Pre  Catalan;  the  AUee  des  Acacias,  through  the  cen- 
tre of  this  park;  the  pretty  suburbs  of  Passy  and 
Auteuil;  and  the  towns  of  Boulogne,  Suresnes  and 
St.  Cloud,  are  the  principal  objects  of  interest. 

E.  of  Paris  is  the  Bois  de  Vincennes,  a  vast 
woody  tract,  which  furnishes  a  delightful  breathing- 
place  for  the  Parisians.  The  Chateau  (open  Sat., 
12-4,  by  order  from  Commandant)  was  built  in  1164, 
and  is  a  strong  fortress,  containing  barracks  and 
arsenal  and  a  military  school.  There  is  a  monument 
to  the  Due  d'Enghien;  and  from  the  Donjon,  a 
a  square  tower  190  feet  high,  a  fine  view  may  be 
enjoyed.     The  chapel  was  founded  in  1379. 

The  Buttes  Chaumont  is  a  picturesque  park  of 
55  acres,  in  the  Belleville  quarter.  In  the  centre 
is  an  island  bearing  a  reproduction  of  the  Temple 
of  the  Sibyl  at  Tivoli.  G-reat  battle  near  here  on 
the  30th  of  May,  1814.  The  Pare  de  Monceaux 
may  be  entered  from  the  Rue  de  Courcelles.  It 
covers  18  acres,  and  is  surrounded  by  magnificent 
residences  of  wealthy  Parisians.  Great  numbers  of 
Communists  were  executed  here  at  the  close  of  the 
insurrection. 

The  Champs-Elysees  is  a  world-famous  prome- 
nade. The  illumination  on  the  14th  of  July  (national 
fete)  is  a  superb  spectacle.  Most  of  the  Cafe-Concerts 
of  importance  have  summer  theatres  here. 

The  Jardin  des  Plantes,  easily  reached  by  omni- 
bus or  by  river  steamboat,  is  open  daily,  10  till  dark. 
The  fine  Menagerie  is  open  daily  in  summer,  10-5 ;  the 
Galleries,  containing  the  collections,  Tues.  and  Sun. 
afternoons;  library  daily,  10-3.  Botanic  Garden 
here,  one  of  the  pleasantest  promenades  in  the  city. 


182      JULY  COLUMN. -ARC  DE  TRIOMPHE, 


I! 


The  Place  de  la  Concorde,  one  of  the  finest  squares 
in  the  world,  is  a  good  starting-point  for  any  excursion 
about  Paris.  In  the  centre  is  the  Ohelisic  of  Luxor, 
given  to  Louis  Philippe  by  the  Pasha  of  Egypt.  It  is 
76  ft.  high,  and  weighs  840  tons.  On  either  side  is  a 
handsome  fountain.  Arranged  about  the  Place  are 
8  stone  figures,  representing  the  chief  towns  of  France, 
On  the  statue  of  Strasbourg  the  visitor  may  generally 
observe  a  mourning  wreath.  The  Germans  bivouacked 
here  in  1871.  In  1792-99,  3,000  people  perished  here 
on  the  guillotine',  Louis  XVI.  was  executed  near 
central  gate  of.Tuileries  garden.  The  P/ace  de  la 
Bastille  has  in  its  centre  the  July  Column,  153  ft. 
high,  with  figure  of  Libertv  See  Place  dti  Chateau 
d''Eau,  Place  du  Cliatelet,  Place  Louvois,  and  Place 
Dawphine.  On  the  Place  du  Pont  St.  Michel  there  is  a 
fine  fountain,  with  a  bronze  statue  of  Michael  over- 
coming the  Dragon.  On  the  Place  St.  Georges  stands 
the  house  in  which  Thiers  lived  during  the  latter  years 
of  his  life.  In  the  centre  of  the  Place  de  VEtoile,  at  the 
top  of  the  Champs-Elysees,  stands  the  noble  Arc  de 
Triomphe  de  I'Etoile,  begun  in  1806  by  Napoleon  I., 
and  finished  in  Louis  Philippe's  reign,  at  a  cost  of 
$2,000,000.  The  structure  is  160  ft.  high,  146  ft,  wide, 
and  72  ft.  deep.  The  vast  arch  is  67  ft.  high  and  46  ft. 
wide.  On  the  side  are  groups  representing  the  Napo- 
leonic campaigns.  Names  of  nearly  150  battles  appear 
on  the  vault.  Spiral  staircase  of  26 1  steps  to  platform  at 
top,  whence  a  grand  view.  From  the  Triumphal  Arch 
to  the  Porte  Maillot  runs  the  Ave.  de  la  Grande  Armee. 

In  the  Place  Vendome  is  a  column  140  ft.  high, 
surmounted  by  a  statue  of  Napoleon  L,  in  costume  of 
a  Cassar.  The  column,  pulled  down  by  communists  in 
1871,  .was  made  of  cannon  taken  from  the  Aus- 
trians.    Notice  curious  heads  over  the  houses  round 


PARIS.  183 

the  Square.  The  Place  Lotivois,  near  the  National 
Library ;  the  Place  cle  la  Bourse,  where  stands  the 
Bourse,  or  Exchange  (from  a  gallery  in  which  visitors 
can  notice  the  curious  financial  crush  from  12  to  3)  ; 
the  Square  Montholon,  on  the  Rue  Lafayette ;  the 
Esplanade,  in  front  of  the  Livalides;  the  Champs  de 
Mars,  where  four  great  exhibitions  have  been  held, 
and  where  the  celebrated  EiiTel  Tower  (984  ft.  in 
height)  is  located;  the  Trocadero  Gardens,  now  crowned 
with  a  superb  palace  used  for  historical  collections  and 
for  musical  concerts  ;  the  Place  Glichy,  at  the  head  of 
the  street  of  the  same  name ;  and  the  Place  de  la  Nation^ 
should  not  be  forgotten  by  the  visitor.  The  Place  de 
Greve,  where  the  stake  and  the  scaffold  were  erected  so 
often  in  the  15th  and  16th  centuries,  is  now  called  the 
Place  de  r Hotel  de  Ville  ;  and  directly  in  the  rear  of  it 
is  the  new  City  Hall,  a  magnificent  structure,  erected 
on  tlie  ruins  of  the  one  burned  to  the  ground  by  the 
Comnmnists,  May  24,  1871.  With  the  old  building, 
1533-1628,  a  library  of  lv)0,000  vols,  was  consumed. 
The  new  Hotel  de  Ville  is  ornamented  with  hundred? 
of  statues.  The  Place  de  la  Roquette  is  a  gloomy  square, 
in  front  of  the  prison  to  which  criminals  are  transferred 
when  they  are  sentenced  to  death.  Many  notorious  exe> 
cutions  occurred  on  this  Place.  In  the  Place  cles  Victoires 
see  the  clumsy  statue  of  Louis  XIV. ;  the  statues  of 
Jeanne  d'Arc,  on  the  Rue  de  Rivoli,  in  tlie  Place  des 
P^r amides  ;  and  that  of  Marshal  Ney  at  the  Observatory. 
The  Porte  St.  Martin  and  the  Porte  St.  Denis, 
on  the  Boulevard  St.  Denis,  are  triumphal  arches, 
erected  in  1674  and  1672  respectively,  to  commemorate 
the  victories  of  Louis  XIY.  in  Holland  and  on  the 
Lower  Rhine.  The  allied  armies,  when  they  entered 
Paris  in  1814,  passed  through  the  Porte  St.  Martin, 
just  as  the  German  armies  entered  under  the  Arc  de 


184  THE  PASSAGES   OF   PARIS. 

Triomplie  in  1871.  Near  these  2  arches  there  were 
sanguinary  conflicts  in  the  insurrections  of  1830,  1848,^ 
and  1871.  One  of  the  most  formidable  barricades,  and 
one  most  fiercely  defended  by  the  Communists  in  1871, 
was  near  the  Porte  St.  Martin.  On  the  Square  St. 
Jacques,  which  occupies  a  portion  of  the  site  of  the  old 
Ch.  of  St.  Jacques  la  Boucherie,  is  a  beautiful  tower 
(1508-22),  160  ft.  high,  all  that  now  remains  of  the  old 
clmrch ;  statue  of  Pascal,  by  Cavelier,  in  a  crown  of  the 
arch.  Great  number  of  other  statues  on  the  monument. 
The  Square  Monge  contains  a  statue  of  Voltaire.  See 
in  the  Square  du  Temple  the  group  of  lime-trees  under 
which  Louis  XYl.  used  to  sit  when  he  was  a  prisoner. 
The  Conservatoire  des  Arts  et  Metiers,  opening  on  the 
Rue  St.  Martin,  has  a  magnificent  industrial  school. 
Collections  most  extensive  of  their  kind  in  Europe 
(open  10-4 ;  Sun.,  Tues.,  Thurs.,  free;  Mon.,  Fri.,  Sat., 
1  fr.)  ;  articles  are  all  labelled.  See  Refectory  of  the 
old  abbey.  The  handsome  Gothic  Hall  is  now  a  hbrary, 
20,000  vols,  (open  to  students,  10-3,  7.30-10  daily). 
The  Fontaiiie  de  V Observatoire  is  ornamented  with 
•jolumns  bearing  vases,  and  statues  of  Morning,  Noon, 
Evening,  Night.  See  Fontaine  Cuvier,  in  the  Jardin 
des  Plantes ;  Fontaine  Gaillon,  in  the  Place  of  the  same 
name;  Fontaine  de  Grenelle,  one  of  the  finest  in  the 
city;  the  Fontaine  des  Innocents,  in  Square  of  same 
name;  Fontaine  Louis  le  Grand;  Fontaine  Moliere, 
entrance  to  Rue  Moliere;  Fontaine  Richelieu,  in  the 
Rue  de  Richelieu;  Fontaine  Notre  Dame;  Fontaine 
St.  Sulpice  /  and  the  Fontaine  de  la  Victoire, 

The  Passages,  or  arcades,  of  Paris  should  not 
escape  the  stranger's  attention.  The  most  noticeable 
are  the  Passages  Jouffroy,  des  Panoramas,  de  V  Opera, 
des  Princes,  on  the  grand  boulevards ;  the  Choiseul, 
Rue  des  Petits  Champs ;  Passage  Verdean,  a  continua- 


PARIS.  185 

tion  of  the  Jouffroy ;  Passage  du  Saumon,  in  the  Rue 
Montmartre;  Passage  F*m'e?i?ie,  f rom  E,ue  Vivienne ; 
Passage  du  Havre,  from  the  Rue  Caumartin  to  the 
Rue  St.  Lazare.  Beware  of  beggars  and  people  who 
offer  their  services  in  these  arcades.  The  best  shop- 
ping streets  are  the  Rue  de  la  Paix,  Rue  de  la  Chaus- 
see  d' Antin,  Avenue  de  I'Opera,  Rue  Scribe,  Boulevard 
Haussmann,  Rue  des  Capucines,  Rue  Royale,  Rue 
Auber,  Boulevard  St.  Germain,  and  all  the  grand 
boulevards.  The  shops  in  the  Avenue  de  I'Opera  are 
usually  reasonable  in  their  prices,  but  those  of  the 
Rue  de  Rivoli  are  not. 

Cemeteries. — There  are  14  within  the  walls.  The 
most  noticeable  is  Pfere-la-Chaise.  Here  the  Com- 
munists made  their  last  stand,  and  from  the  hill-top 
bombarded  the  neighborhood  of  the  Place  de  la  Con- 
corde. See  graves  and  tombs  here  of  Helo'ise  and 
Abelard;  Alfred  de  Musset;  the  composers  Bellini, 
Gretry,  Boieldieu,  Cherubini,  Rossini  and  Chopin; 
of  Bernardin  de  St.  Pierre,  Talma  the  trage- 
dian, Dupuytren,  Beaumarchais,  Manuel  and  Be- 
ranger  in  the  same  tomb,  Benjamin  Constant, 
Racine,  Moliere,  Lafontaine,  Balzac,  Eugene 
Delacroix,  Thiers,  Marshal  Ney;  Clement  Thomas 
and  Le  Comte,  the  first  victims  of  the  Commune; 
and  in  the  Jewish  Cemetery  (closed  on  Saturday) 
the  tombs  of  Rachel  and  the  Rothschilds.  See 
Prison  of  La  Roquette,  in  which  the  Archbishop 
and  other  hostages  were  executed  by  the  Communists. 
The  Montmartre  Cemetery  has  the  graves  of  Hein- 
rich  Heine,  Cavaignac,  Halevy,  Theophile  Gautier, 
Gozlan,  Mtirger,  Horace  Vernet  and  Troyon.  On  the 
Boulevard  Montrouge  is  the  Montparnasse  Cemetery, 
Visit  the  Picpus  Cemetery,  Rue  Picpus,  where  are 
tombs  of  Lafayette  and  many  members  of  old  French 
nobility,  victims  of  the  Revolution.  See  at  end  of 
burial-ground  the  Cemetery  of  the  CruiUotmed,  where 


186  h5tel  des  invalides. 

1,300  persons,  executed  at  the  Barriere  du  Trone,  are 
buried. 

Fortifications. — Paris  is  surrounded  with  ramparts 
(cost,  $28,000,000),  Mdth  94  bastions,  and  21  M.  long. 
They  are  32  ft.  high,  with  parapet  19  ft.  wide,  moat 
48  ft.  wide,  and  a  glacis.  Since  the  war  of  1870-71 
the  system  of  fortifications  has  been  greatly  enlarged. 
The  approaches  to  Paris  are  now  commanded  by  16 
detached  forts,  none  of  them  farther  than  2.M.  from  the 
city.  Mont  Valerien  is  the  most  imposing  and  pic- 
turesque. Those  near  St.  Denis  and  on  the  1.  bank 
of  the  Marne  and  Seine  are. best  worth  visiting. 

fhe  Hotel  des  Invalides  is  S.  of  the  Seine,  in 
the  S.  W.  portion  of  the  city,  and  easily  reached  from 
the  Place  de  la  Concorde.  It  was  founded  in  1670 
by  Louis  XIV.  for  the  veterans  of  the  army.  There 
are  at  present  about  500  inmates,  although  the  build- 
ing was  intended  to  accommodate  5,000.  The  dome 
of  the  Ch.  of  the  Invalides,  which  can  be  seen  from  a 
long  distance,  was  gilded  in  the  time  of  Napoleon  I. 
The  fa9ade  of  the  great  edifice  is  660  ft.  long.  In 
front  of  the  wings  are  groups  in  bronze  by  Desjardins. 
Over  the  principal  entrance  stands  an  equestrian  figure 
of  Louis  XIV.  On  the  Esplanade  is  the  "  Triumphal 
Battery,"  used  in  firing  salutes  on  great  occasions. 
Most  of  the  guns  are  trophies.  See  the  Cour  d'Hon- 
neur,  painted  with  scenes  from  various  French  warlike 
epochs,  the  Refectories,  Library,  the  Salle  du  Couseil, 
the  Artillery  Mtiseum.,  and  the  Ch.,  in  which  is  the 
Tomb  of  Napoleon  I.,  directly  beneath  the  dome 
(entrance  to  the  dome  Mon.,  Tues.,  Wed.,  and  Fri., 
12-3,  free).  Above  the  entrance  to  the  crypt  are 
inscribed  the  words  fron.  ^lie  Emperor's  last  will  : 
"I  desire  that  my  ashes  may  repose  on  the  banks 
of  the  Seine,  among  that   French   people   I   have  so 


PARIS.  187 

well  loved,"  Note  the  bas-reliefs  by  Simvrt;  colos. 
sal  victories  by  Pradier;  the  sarcophagus,  which 
weighs  67  tons;  the  decoration  of  tlie  tomb;  and 
tne  monument  of  Vauban  and  Turenne.  In  a  chapel 
on  the  1.  is  the  tomb  of  Jerome  Bonaparte ;  on  the 
r.,  the  sarcophagus  of  Joseph  Bonaparte,  once  King 
of  Spain.  The  Hotel  des  Invalides  is  shown  daily 
from  12-3,  except  Sun.  (small  fee).  Walk  hence  to 
the  Ecole  Miliiaire,  founded  in  1751  by  Louis  XY. 
A  noble  building;  admission  by  special  order.  A 
great  number  of  executions  of  Communists  here. 

Operas  and  Tlieatres.^^  —  The  majority  of  the 
Paris  theatres  are  closed  in  summer,  but  tourists  will 
wish  to  visit  the  Grand  Opera,  or  National  Academy 
of  Music,  and  the  Theatre  Francais,  which  are  open 
the  year  round.  The  new  Opera  House  was  built 
1861-74  and  is  the  largest  theatre  in  the  world,  cov- 
ering nearly  3  acres,  but  seats  fewer  people  (2,156) 
than  La  Scala  or  San  Carlo  in  Italy.  The  fapade 
is  exceedingly  rich  in  statuary.  On  the  r.  notice 
the  celebrated  group  of  La  Danse  by  Carpeaux.  The 
7  others  represent  music,  lyric  and  idyllic  poetry, 
declamation,  song,  drama,  and  lyric  drama.  Note  the 
medallions  and  busts  of  composers.  The  gifand  stair- 
case of  white  marble,  with  balustrades  of  red  antique 
marble  and  hand-rails  of  Algerian  onyx,  is  the  finest 
in  Europe  (see  local  guides  for  description).  To  gen- 
tlemen we  recommend  the  Stalles  de  Farterre,  7  fr. ; 
to.families,  if  economy  be  an  object,  the  Troisiemes,  8  fr. 
Ladies  not  admitted  to  the  orchestra  stalls,  except 
occasionally  on  Sat,  The  Amphitheatre  is  the  choice 
part  of  the' house.  All  this  quarter  of  Paris  is  illumi- 
nated by  electricity.  At  the  other  end  of  the  Avenue 
de  rOpera  is  the  Theatre  Frangais,  the  rank  of 
which  is  well  known.     Pounded  in  1600,  it  was  under 


188  OPERAS  AND  THEATRES. 

Moliere's  superintendence  until  his  death.  The  lobby 
contains  statues  of  Voltaire,  George  Sand,  and  other 
celebrities  (good  seats  here,  7-10  fr.).  Paris  is  the 
home  of  genteel  comedy ;  and  the  theatres  where  it 
can  be  best  seen  are  the  Renaissancp,  Rejane.  Vau- 
deville, and  Gyjymase.  For  light  opera  go  to  the 
Opera  Comique  (good  seats,  8-12  fr.).  The  Odeon 
ranks  next  to  the  J^rangais,  and  there,  as  at  the  lead- 
ing theatre,  classical  drama  is  often  produced.  For 
opera  bouffe  go  to  the  Trianon,  the  Bouffes  Paris- 
iens,  or  the  Folies  Dramatiques.  The  Varietes  has 
a  specialty  of  broad  vaudevilles  and  comedies.  The 
Palais  Royal  and  Athenee  are  the  recognized  temples 
of  broad  comedy  and  of  those  light  buffooneries  played 
nowhere  so  well  as  in  Paris.  The  Chdtelet  is  mainly 
devoted  to  spectacles,  fairy  pieces  and  ballets.  The 
Theatre  Sarah- Bernhardt,  formerly  des  Nations,  is 
is  where  Bernhardt  plays  when  In  Paris,  For  other 
theatres,  see  daily  papers  or  the  English  papers. 
There  are  several  circus  buildings  and  an  immense 
Hippodrome.  Concerts  Sunday  afternoons  in  win- 
ter, generally  at  the  Theatre  du  Chdtelet,  Ihedtre 
Sarah  Bernhardt  and  Champs  Ely  sees  Circus.  The 
best  music  halls  are  the  Olympia,  Casino  de  Paris, 
la  Scala  and  Polies-Bergere ;  in  summer,  the  Mar- 
igny,  Jar  din  de  Paris,  des  Amtassadeurs  and 
Alcazar  d'Ete,  all  in  the  Champs  Elysees. 

Museums.  —  The  Louvre ;  paintings,  statuary, 
aniiquities ;  10-4  in  winter,  9-5  in  summer,  Mondays 
excepted.  The  Luxembourg ;  paintings,  statuary, 
chiefly  works  of  living  French  artists;  9-5  except 
Sun. ;  when  the  Senate  is  in  session  tickets  must  be 
obtained  from  a  Senator  or  from  the  Secretaire  de  la 
questure.  Cluny,  Rue  de  Sommerard ;  antiquities  and 
curiosities;  10-4  except  Monday.  Moliere.  Collec- 
tion of  busts  and  portraits  of  great  value  as  regards 
the  literary  history  of  F'rance,  in  various  parts  of  the 
Theatre   Frangais;    authorization  to  visit  the  non- 


PARIS  189 

Sublic  parts  of  buildingf  from  the  archivist,  M.  G. 
lonval.  Camavalet,  Rue  de  Sevigne;  objects  re- 
lating to  the  history  of  the  French  Revolution ;  11-4 
Sun.  and  Thurs.  Archives  Nationales,  Rue  des 
Francs-Bourgeois;  objects  and  documents  relative  to 
French  history;  10-4  except  Monday.  Cabinet  des 
Estampes  et  des  Medailles,  Rue  Richelieu ;  10-4  daily. 
Musee  des  JBeaux-Arts^  Rue  Bonaparte;  casts,  copies, 
engravings;  10-4  daily.  Instrumental,  Rue  de  Fau- 
bourg-Poisonniere;  musical  instruments  of  all  epochs; 
12-4  Mon.  and  Thurs.  De  r Opera;  autograph  MSS. 
of  composers,  instruments,  costumes;  11-4  except 
Sunday.  De  la  Mon7iaie,Qiia.i  Conti;  medals,  coins, 
postage  stamps;  12-3  Tues.  and  Fri.  on  authorization 
obtained  from  the  director  of  the  mint.  Des  Gobelins, 
ancient  and  modern  tapestries;  1-3  Wed.  and  Sat. 
Trocadero;  on  the  ground  floor,  casts  of  architectural 
and  other  sculpture;  11-4  except  Monday;  first  floor, 
ethnographical  museum;  12-4  Sunday  and  Thursday. 
Ouimet,  Avenue  d'lena;  collection  relative  to  the 
history  of  eastern  religions;  12-4  daily.  Du  Oarde- 
Meuble,  Quai  d'Orsay;  furniture,  tapestries,  bronzes, 
etc.,  from  Louis  XIV.  to  present  time;  interesting; 
10-4  except  Monday.  Des  Arts  et  Metiers,  Rue  St.- 
Martm;  collection  relative  to  applied  science  and  in- 
dustries; one  of  the  halls  has  remarkable  acoustic 
properties;  10-4  Sun.,  Tues.  and  Thurs,;  other  days 
by  special  permit.  Dupuytreri  and  Orjila,  Rue  de 
I'Bcole  de  Medicine;  anatomy  and  pathology;  10-4 
except  Sunday;  tickets  obtained  at  the  office  of  the 
secretary  of  the  Faculte  de  Medecine.  D'Artillerie, 
at  the  Hotel  des  Invalides;  arms  and  armor;  10-4 
«xcept  Monday.  Caen,  1  Rue  de  Seine;  paintings 
offered  in  competition  for  the  Prix  de  Rome;  admis- 
sion on  request.  Cermisci,  7  Avenue  Velasquez*, 
Chinese  and  Japanese  art. 

National  Library  (2,000,000  vols.),  in  the  Rue 
de  Richelieu  (see  local  guides);   the  beautiful  St, 


190  ALONG  THE  SEINE 

Ge7i6vUv6  Library  (120,000  vols,  and  35,000  MSS.),  Place  du 
Panth&m ;  tlie  Halles  Centrales,  vast  pavilions  cov, 
ering  many  acres,  reached  from  the  Rue  Montmartre  or 
Boulevard  Sebastopol,  should  be  visited  between  6  and 
8  A.M.,  when  the  marketing  is  most  active.  The  Bourse 
de  Commerce,  in  the  Rue  du  Louvre,  replaces  the  old 
wheat  exchange  called  the  Halle  au  Ele.  The  Halle  aux 
Vins,  or  the  wine  depot  of  the  city,  is  next  the  Jardin 
des  Plantes  ;  30  million  gallons  can  be  stored  there.  The 
Ahattoira,  or  slaughter-houses,  cover  67  acres,  and  1,000 
persons  are  employed  there. 

The  Hospitals  of  the  Hotel  Dieu,  Beaujon,  Fau- 
bourg St.  Honore ;  La  Charite,  Rue  Jacob ;  La  Pitie,  Rue 
Lacepede;  Lariboisiere,  near  the  N.  Rly.  stat.;  St.  Louis, 
Rue  Bichat ;  Du  Midi,  Rue  des  Capucines ;  De  Lourcine, 
street  of  same  name ;  Des  Cliniques,  Place  de  PEcole  de 
Medecine;  Des  Incurahles,  at  Ivry,— may  generally  be 
•  visited  without  difficulty.  For  descriptions  of  the  great 
Asylums,  of  the  Mont  de  Piete,  of  the  Prisons  (historical 
ones  mentioned  elsewhere),  and  of  the  minor  military 
establishments,  see  local  guides.  An  excursion  through 
the  Sewers,  from  the  Bastille  to  the  Placode  la  Con- 
corde, in  boats  and  wagons,  may  be  made  twice  a  month 
in  summer.  The  Catacombs,  which  contain  the  bones  of 
most  of  the  victims  of  the  Revolution,  and  of  nearly 
6,000,000  of  other  dead,  may  be  occasionally  visited  with 
permission. 

Of  the  27  bridges  over  the  Seine,  the  most  noticeable 
are  the  Pont  d' Austerlitz,  which  has  5  stone  arches, 
is  390  feet  long,  and  has  the  names  of  the  principal  officers 
killed  in  the  celebrated  battle  inscribed  on  the  ornaments 
of  the  bridge.  It  was  built  in  1808,  and  rebuilt  in  1858. 
The  Pont  K"6uf  was  begun  in  1578,  and  completed  in 
1624.  Upon  it  stands  an  equestrian  statue  of  Henry  TV, 
The  Pont  des  Arts  was  built  for  pedestrians  only.  The 
Pont  du  Carrousel  has  4  colossal  stone  statues,  those 
on  the  left  bank  representing  Abundance  and  Industry, 
and  on  the  right  the  Seine  and  the  City  of  Paris.  The 
Pont  Boyal  was  built  in  1608.  Just  below  is  the  pier  for 
the  steamers  which  run  to  St.  Cloud  and  Suresnes.    Far- 


VERSAILLES  191 

fher  down  the  Seine  are  the  Pont  de  Solferino,  155  yards 
3ong,  with  the  names  of  the  principal  French  victories 
in  the  campaign  of  1859  inscribed  upon  the  cornices ;  the 
Pont  de  la  Cy/(cordc,  opposite  the  Palais  Bourbon;  the 
Po7it  des  Invalide,-!,  which  has  statues  representing  victory 
by  land  and  victory  by  sea;  the  Pont  de  VAlma,  with 
statues  between  the  arches  representing  different  types 
of  French  soldiers;  the  Pont  d'lena,  built  1806-13,  ooposite 
the  Champ  de  Mars,  with  colossal  statues  of  men  and 
horses;  the  Pont  Alexandre  III.,  built  in  1899; 
and  the  Pont  du  Jour,  a  superb  viaduct,  570  feet  long. 

Excursions  near  Paris. 

Versailles  {Roiel  des  Reservoirs,  where  tlie  Germaa 
princes  dwelt  during  the  siege  of  Paris)  is  reached  by 
half-hourly  trains  from  St.  Lazare  or  Mont-Pariiasse  stat. 
{\\\-\^\  M. ;  return-fares,  3fr.  30  c.,  2  fr.  70  c.) ;  or 
by  tramway  from  the  Louvre  (10  M.)  ;  or  by  carriage, 
through  the  Bois  de  Boulogne,  the  Park  of  St.  Cloud, 
and  Ville  d'Avray.  Versailles  is  a  sleepy  old  town  of 
61,000  inhab.,  which  has  grown  up  around  the  palace 
that  Louis  XIV.  built  on  an  isolated  plateau  between 
low^  forest-covered  hills,  at  a  cost  of  $200,000,000. 
The  palace  overlooks  the  town .  See  Hotel  de  Ville  ; 
the  Palais  de  Justice;  the  Library  (60,000  vols.)  ' 
the  Salle  du  Jeu  de  Paitme,  the  cradle  of  the  French 
E-evolution;  the  Stai^ie  of  Horace  Vernet ;  and 
the  Theatre,  restored  in  1850  ;  the  Place  Roche,  with 
the  statue  of  the  General ;  and  the  Cathedral  of  St. 
Louis.  The  courtyard  contains  many  statues,  among 
Avhich  are  those  of  Bayard,  Colbert,  Massena,  and  Tu- 
remie,  and  an  equestrian  bronze  statue  of  Louis  XIV. 
In  1661  Louis  XIV.  formed  his  great  scheme  of  a 
palace  and  park  ;  and  Levan  and  Mansard  erected  tJie 
buildings,  while  Le  Notre  laid  out  and  decorated  the 
gardens.  The  palace  has  not  been  inhabited  since 
1789  \  ana  in  the  reign  of  Louis  Philippe  it  was  con* 


192  VERSAILLES. 

Verted  into  a  museum,  devoted,  as  the  inscription 
shows,  "  To  all  the  Glories  of  Prance.'*  The  Chapel 
is  gorgeously  decorated  (1696-1710).  The  Museum  is 
open  daily,  12-4  (except  Mon.).  The  entrance  is  at 
the  1.  in  the  Marble  Courtyard.  Notice  the  Marble 
Staircase,  leading  to  the  fii-st  story ;  and  thf  Queen^s 
Staircase,  to  the  second.  The  Museum  is  va)'  ,  and  its 
magnificent  halls  are  crowded  with  statues  and  por- 
traits of  the  generals,  admirals,  and  sovr  /oigns  of 
France,  and  witli  hundreds  of  pictures  of  he}  battles  in 
all  four  continents,  painted  by  Vernet,  Scheffer,  )elacroix, 
Regnault,  etc.,  forming  an  unrivalled  panoraj  ta  of  mili- 
tary glory.  33  grand  battle-pictures  in  Valerie  des 
Batailles,  a  hall  396  X  52  ft.  in  area.  In  tie  Salle  du 
Sacre  is  the  great  picture  of  the  "  Const.-cration  of 
Napoleon,"  by  David ;  also,  Gros's  famous  painting, 
"  The  Battle  of  Aboukir."  The  Grande  Galerie  des 
Glaces  is  the  most  notable  hall,  240  X  35  ft.  in  area, 
adorned  with  Le  Brun's  paintings  (1679-83),  and  over, 
looking  the  gardens.  The  Bedroom  of  LDuis  XIV., 
the  Salle  des  .  Gardes,  the  King's  AntecXumher,  the 
Comicil  Hall,  the  Salle  de  la  Giierre ;  a?ad,  on  the 
-ground  floor,  i]ie  Halls  of  the  Marshals,  of  the  Kings 
of  France  (67  portraits,  from  Clovis  to  Napoleon  III.), 
and  of  the  Royal  Residences,  —  are  espf.cially  worth 
visiting.  The  Sculpture  Galleries  are  ex'^remely  inter- 
esting. In  the  Queen' s  Chamber  the  3  queens,  Marie 
Therese,  Marie  Leczinska,  and  Marie  Antoinette,  have 
lodged.  Catalogues,  giving  description  of  all  the  rooms, 
^or  sale  at  palace.  Eine  view  of  the  Grand  Canal  and 
the  Basin  of  Apollo  from  the  steps  in  front  of  the 
palace.  The  fountains  play  afternoons  on  Sun.  (gen. 
erally  announced  in  the  Paris  papers)  The  chief  cu- 
riosities  of  the  gardens  are  the  Orangery  (1685);  the 
Parterres  du  Midi  and  du  Nord ;  the  Fiece  d'Eau  de* 


ST.  CLOUD.  193 

SniHses ;  the  Neptune  Fountain  ;  the  two  fountains  near 
tlie  Oi'angerj  ;  the  Latona  Basin  ;  and  the  Grande  Al- 
ice (ki  Tapis  Vert.  The  Grand  Canal  is  4,674  ft.  long, 
and  about  186  ft.  wide.  It  was  here  that  Louis  XIY. 
gave  liis  Venetian  festivals,  famous  in  history.  The 
Grand  Trianon,  a  horseshoe-shaped  villa,  built  by 
Louis  XIV.  for  Madame  Maintenon,  is  open  daily 
(12-4).  Richly  furnished  rooms,  in  which  Bazaine 
was  tried.  The  gardens  of  the  Petit  Trianon  are  alse 
open  daily.  Notice  the  curious  display  of  old  state- 
coaches  used  by  the  sovereigns  of  France,  in  a  coach- 
house near  the  Grand  Trianon.  When  the  Grander. 
En^'v  p1av,  rly.  tickets  from  Paris  cost  2  fr,  1^  fr. 

St.  Cloud  (Restaurants:  Belvedere;  de  la  Gare)  is 
visited  from  St.  Lazare  (Ifr.  60c.,  Ifr.  10c. j;  or  by 
steamer,  which  is  preferable  in  warm  weather.  From 
the  bridge  over  the  Seine  turn  to  the  1.,  and  walk 
through  the  Park  to  the  Great  Cascade.  Then  turn 
up  to  the  ruined  Palace  (built  in  1572),  mainly  de- 
stroyed by  French  shells,  thrown  into  the  wood  to  dis- 
lodge the  Germans.  This  was  a  favorite  residence  of 
Napoleon  III.  (One-horse  carriages  per  hr.,  3  fr.) 
Many  ruined  buildings  in  the  town,  remains  of  the 
conflagration  started  by  the  Germans.  Beautiful  new 
ch.  in  the  12th-century  style,  with  a  lofty  stone  spire. 
New  Hotel  de  Ville,  near  by.  Magnificent  outlook  over 
Paris  from  the  hill  above  the  stat.  The  Palace  was 
inhabited  by  most  of  the  French  sovereigns,  from  1785. 
The  rly.  from  Paris  to  Versailles  runs  through  the 
beautiful  park,  which  is  ornamented  with  statues,  foun- 
tains,  and  lakes.  See  the  Trocadero  Garden,  N.  of  the 
palace  ;  the  Pavilion  de  Breteuil ;  and  the  great  water- 
jet,  to  the  1.  of  the  Cascade.  The  Park  of  Montretont 
near  the  rly.,  was  the  scene  of  a  desperate  fight,  ir 
the  sortie  made  by  the  French,  Jan.  19, 1871,  in  whict 
they  lost  3,000  men.     Mouument  here  to  the  slain. 


194  SEVRES-ST.  GERMAIN-RUEIL 

Sevres  is  easily  readied  from  St.  Cloud.  Here  is 
tlie  noted  porcelain  factory.  Exhibition  room  of  the 
Ceramic  Museum  open  daily,  12-5  ;  strangers  admitted 
•without  cards.  The  Workshops  may  be  inspected 
Mon.,  Thurs.,  and  Sat.,  12-5  (get  cards  at  3  Rue  de 
Yalois,  Paris).  Uly.  from  Paris  to  Bellevue,  5  min. 
"walk  from  Ihe  factory. 

St.  Germain-en-Laye.  This  is  one  of  the  most 
beautiful  excursions  near  Paris  (fares,  Ifr.  65  c,  Ifr. 
35  c).  The  principal  sights  are  the  Pavilion  Henri 
Quatre,  in  which  Louis  XIV.  was  born,  and  Thiers 
died;  the  magnificent  Terrace  on  the  border  of  the 
forest  of  St.  Germain ;  and  the  gloomy  old  Chateau^ 
where  James  II.  of  England  lived  after  the  Revolution, 
of  1C88.  In  the  Ch.  is  a  Mausoleum^  erected  by  George 
lY.  to  the  memory  of  James.  The  forest  of  St.  Ger- 
main,  one  of  the  largest  near  Paris  (9,000  acres),  is 
full  of  charming  walks,  and  a  day  or  two  may  well  be 
spent  in  this  lofty  and  healthy  old  town.  Tlie  Museum 
of  National  A7itiqvAties  is  in  the  chateau  (open  Sun., 
Tues.,  and  Thurs.,  11-5).  The  Terrace,  constructed 
by  Le  Notre  in  1672,  is  \\  M.  long,  with  superb  view* 
Prom  St.  Germain  to  Versailles  is  a  pleasant  walk. 

Rueil  (fares,  95  c,  65  c.)  is  8f  M.  from  St.  Lazare 
stat.  In  its  Ch.  are  monuments  to  Empress  Josephine 
and  Queen  Tlortense.  Malmaison  (tramway  from  Rueil, 
3  M.)  was  the  favorite  home  of  Napoleon,  and  there 
Josephine  died  in  1814.  Not  far  away  is  the  Chateau 
of  Buzeniml,  near  which  the  artist,  Henri  Regnault, 
was  killed  in  the  fight  of  Jan.  19,  1871.  About ._2|  M. 
from  Rueil  is  Bougival,  a  resort  of  celebrated  painters. 
See  the  Restaurant,  witli  walls  decorated  with  land- 
scapes by  Corot,  Eranyais,  etc.  Erom  thence  go  to 
Louveciennes,  a  lovely  village,  with  a  15th-century  ch. 
It  is  but  7-8  min.  walk,  thence  to  Koinrj.     On  the 


ST.  DENIS.  —  ENGHIEN.  1 95' 

till  is  Marly-le-Roi,  where  stood  a  beautiful  palace 
built  bj  Louis  XIV.,  aud  destroyed  during  the  Revo- 
lution. Victorieu  Sardou  lives  here.  To  the  W.  is 
Monte  Gristo,  in  which  Dumas  the  Elder  lived  so  long. 

St.  Denis  is  4  M.  from  Paris  (return-fares,  1  fr. 
SO  c,  85  c.,  70  c.).  Chapel  begun  liere,  a.d.  275, 
in  honor  of  St.  Denis,  who  had  his  head  cut  off  on 
Montinartre,  and  who  is  said  to  liave  taken  it  on  his 
arm  and  walked  off  across  the  fields,  Dagobert  built 
the  ch.,  which  was  the  nucleus  of  the  one  begun  by 
Pepin,  finished  by  Charlemagne  in  775,  and  demol- 
ished and  a  larger  one  built  on  its  ruins  400  years 
later.  During  the  Revolution  the  ch.  was  pillaged.  It 
was  restored  by  Viollet-le-Duc.  Beautiful  monuments 
and  statues  here.  Here  Charlemagne  was  anointed ; 
the  Oriflamme  was  kept ;  Abelard  dwelt ;  Joan  of  Arc 
hung  up  her  arms;  Henri  I.  abjured  Protestant- 
ism; and  Napoleon  I.  was  married  to  Marie  Louise. 
The  bones  of  the  Kings  of  Erance  from  Dagobert 
(630)  to  Louis  XV.  (1774)  were  buried  here;  and 
the  mad  Revolutionists  tore  them  from  their  tombs, 
and  buried  them  in  a  common  ditch.  They  are  novf 
in  the  crypt,  and  the  superb  royal  monuments  adorn 
the  ch.,  whose  interior  is  354  ft.  long  and  129  ft. 
wide,  lighted  by  splendid  stained  windows,  and  en* 
riched  with  mosaics  and  statuary. 

Bnghien  and  Montmorency  are  on  the  N.  Rly. 
i^nghien  is  noted  for  sulphur  baths;  Siudi  a,t  Mont- 
morency is  the  Hermitage  which  Rousseau  inhabited, 
and  where  he  began  La  Nouvelle  Helo'ise.  Robespierre 
and  Gretry  also  lived  here.  Chantilly  and  Com.piegne 
(fares  to  Char.tillv,  5fr.  5c  ,  3fr.  75c..  2fr.  80c  ;  ta 
Compiegne,  lOfr.  30c.,  7fr.  35c.,  3fr.  65c.)  Chan- 
tilly was  the  Versailles  of  the  Princes  of  Conde,  and 
was  beautified  by  them  from  the  13th  century  until  the 


196  COMPIEGNE.-FONTAINEBLEAU. 

Revolution.  It  has  two  fine  chateaux  (described  by 
Madame  de  Sevigne),  and  a  famous  forest  of  10 
square  M.  Spring  and  autumn  races  here.  Com- 
pi^gne  has  always  been  a  royal  residence.  Napoleon 
I.  was  fond  of  it,  and  Napoleon  III.  entertained  there 
with  great  magnificence.  The  GaUrie  des  Fetes  is 
superb.  The  Library  was  the  favorite  work-place  of 
Napoleon  III.  The  Compiegne  Forest  is  59  M. 
around.  From  Compiegne  to  Pierrefonds,  excursion 
by  omnibus  through  the  forest,  9  M.  Grand  feudal 
fortress,  built  in  1400,  and  restored  by  Yiollet-le-Duc, 
with  8  huge  towers  and  a  donjon,  on  a  rocky  height 
over  Pierrefonds.  Hotel  des  Ruines,  near  by. 
Ermenonville  (return  tickets,  7  fr.  90  c,  5  fr.  90  c, 
4  fr.  95  c. ;  Le  Bourget,  where  there  were  many  fights 
in  1870-71,  is  on  this  route),  is  the  beautiful  retreat 
where  Rousseau  died,  in  1778.  Celebrated  Park  just 
beyond,  at  Mortefontaine. — Trains  run  to  Fontaine- 
bleau  {Lion  d'Or;  Aigle-Noir ;  Dio  Nordetdela 
Poste;  De  la  Chancellerie)  from  the  Gare  de  Lyons 
(return  tickets,  9  fr.,  6  fr.  80  c,  4  f«.  95  c).  On  the 
the  road  is  Cliarento7i,  with  its  celebrated  lunatic 
asylum  and  fortress ;  Alfort,  where  there  is  a  horse 
and  dog  hospital ;  llontmesly  and  Melun,  with  two 
handsome  old  chs.  and  a  Gothic  town-hall.  From 
Stat.,  omnibus  (1^  M.;  30-50  c.)  to  the  Chateau 
(open  daily,  12-4).  This  stately  palace  was  built  by 
Francis  I.,  on  the  site  of  Louis  VII. 's  castle;  and 
here  Conde  died,  the  Edict  of  Nantes  was  revoked, 
Louis  XIII.  was  born,  Josephine  was  divorced. 
Napoleon  signed  his  abdication,  Pius  VII.  was 
imprisoned,  and  Napoleon  III.  was  baptized.  It 
is  crowded  with  rich  frescoes  and  paintings.  Gobe- 
lins tapesti-ies,  and  antique  furnishings.  See  the  bou- 
doir of  Marie  Antoinette,  the  bedrooms  oi  Anne  of 
Austria  and  Catherine  de  Medicis,  and  the  splendid 


SCEA  UX.  —  MEUDON.  —  ORLEANS.        197 

balle  des  Fetes.  This  was  a  favorite  abode  of  tli© 
.Empress  Eugenie  and  her  son.  The  Forest,  dear  to 
artists,  and  one  of  the  most  beaittiful  in  the  world, 
must  be  seen.  It  is  50  M.  around,  with  many  fine 
gorges,  crags,  and  heaths,  and  has  12,400  M.  of  roads 
and  pathways.  On  the  borders  are  many  charming 
villages  inhabited  mainly  by  artists ;  and  the  lovers  of 
Millet  will  visit  Barbizon. 

Sceaux  (retui'u-fares,  2  tV.  20  c.,  1  fr.  40c.,  1  fr.  10  c.) 
is  a  beautiful  hill-town,  vdth  a  delicious  Park  and 
the  Chateau  where  Colbert  once  lived  and  Voltaire- 
wrote  several  of  his  famous  tragedies.  Chatilloa 
was   the   scene  of   many   combats  during   the   siege. 

Meudon  is  reached  from  the  Tuileries  by  boat 
every  15  minutes.  In  the  Chateau,  built  in  1695  and 
hurned  Ijy  the  Germans  in  1871,  the  Empress  Marie 
Louise  and  Prince  Napoleon  lived.  This  was  also  the 
parish  of  Rabelais.  Fine  view  from  Terrace  (where 
the  Prussians  had  a  26-gun  battery)  ;  noble  trees,  "^lie 
walk  through  Meudon  to  Versailles  is  charming. 

To  Orleans,  Blois,  and  Tours  (fares  to  Tours,  28  fr. 
80  c,  21  fr.  60  c,  15  fr.  80  c. ;  145i  M.).  Orleans 
[Eotel  d' Orleans  ;  Be  Loiret),  founded  by  the  Homaus,. 
on  the  Loire,  contains  a  noble  Flamboyant  ^-athedral^ 
the  only  Gothic  cathedral  built  in  Europe  smce  the 
Middle  Ages.  It  has  a  grand  interior,  with  double 
aisles ;  and  2  towers,  each  280  ft.  high.  See  t!ie: 
bronze  replica  of  a  marble  statue  of  Jeanne  d'Arc 
made  by  Princess  Mane,  the  Museum,  and  the  Mairie. 
Orleans  was  the  capital  of  the  first  Kingdom  of  Bur- 
gundy. The  forest  of  Orleans  is  one  of  tlie  largest 
in  the  country.  The  Germans  took  the  city  in  1870, 
Blois  ijlotel  d'Anr/leterre)  has  a  stately  old  Castle^ 
for  centuries  a  residence  of  kings  and  queens.  Fine 
old   houses  in  the  town.      12  M.  (2  hrs.)  jience,.   by 


198  AMBOISE.  —  TOURS.  —  DIJON. 

omnibus,  is  the  grand,  many-towered,  and  historic* 
Castle  of  Chambord,  built  by  Francis  I.  and  stil) 
in  the  Bourbon  family.  Erom  Onzain  stat.  it  is 
1  M.  to  the  Chateau  de  Chaumont,  a  high-towered 
bill-fortress,  where  Catherine  de  Medicis  lived ;  Car- 
dinal d'Amboise  was  born ;  the  Prince  de  Conde  was 
imprisoned  ;  and  Yoltaire  wrote  La  Pucelle.  11  M, 
beyond  is  Amboise,  with  its  famous  Castle,  perched 
on  a  lofty  crag,  and  dating  from  1470.  In  tlie  gardens 
is  an  exquisite  Gothic  chapel,  with  marvellous  stone- 
carving.  10  M.  S.  is  the  castle  of  Chenonceauap 
built  by  Erancis  I.,  inhabited  by  Diana  de  Poi- 
tiers  and  Louise  of  Lorraine,  and  the  favorite  resori 
of  Voltaire,  Rousseau,  Bolingbroke,  etc.  It  is  still  in 
perfect  order,  and  elegantly  furnished.  At  Tours 
\H6tel  de  VUnlcers,  near  the  stat.),  in  Touraine,  on  the 
Loire,  the  best  French  is  spoken.  See  Gothic  Cathe- 
dral, founded  in  1170  ;  Episcopal  Palace  ;  many  famous 
schools  ;  a  Museum  with  200  paintings  ;  a  fine  Public 
Library  ;  and  two  ancient  towers  (relics  of  the  old 
Cathedral),  beneath  one  of  ^^hich  the  wife  of  Charle- 
magne was  buried.  Many  American  and  English 
families  reside  here.  See  Plessis  les  Tours,  the  horn© 
of  Louis  XL 

Eor  other  excursions  from  Paris  see  local  guides. 

Routes  from  Paris  to  Switzerland. 

Our  itinerary  leads  to  Germany,  before  entering  Swil 
zerland. 

From  Paris  to  Geneva,  by  Dijon  and  Macon.  —  In  11 
hrs.,  by  express  train  (distance,  3881-  M. ;  fares,  76  tV. 
75  c.,  47  fr.  30  c.,  80  fr.  85  c.).  Many  stop  at  Macon  over 
night.  J}\^o'n.{Hdtel  du  Jura,  near  the  sta.  de  la  Cloche^ 
Bourgogne)^  60,000  inliab. ,  is  in  the  wine-growing  dis- 


MACON  -  BELFORT  -  RHEIMS  199 

trict.  See  Palace  of  the  Dukes  of  Burgundy,  now 
a  town-hall,  with  very  interestmg  museum ;  the  Castle, 
built  by  Louis  XI. ;  th.G  Burgundian-Gothic  Ch.  of  Notre 
Dame  (built  1220-30),  with  a  curious  clock.  Macon 
{Hotel  de  l' Europe)  is  an  important  rly.  junction  (good 
buifet).  Eine  views  of  the  Jura  Mts.  from  the  train. 
At  Amber ieu  you  begin  to  climb  the  mts.  Junction  at 
Culoz  for  Aix-les-Bains,  Chamhery,  and  Turin.  Near 
here  some  fine  viaducts,  and  the  Fort  de  VEcluse,  the 
key  to  the  Rhone  valley.  From  this  poini  you  traverse 
a  picturesque  mt.  country  to  Geneva. 

From,  Paris  to  Switzerland,  via  Pontarlier  (fares 
from  Paris  to  Berne,  68  fr.  15  c.,  50  fr.  85  c.,  37  fr. 
25  0.).  Same  route  as  previous  one  to  Dijon.  Erom 
Pontarlier  i\\Q  route  leads  up  through  the  mts.  to  Berne ; 
the  scenery  is  wildly  beautiful.  A  branch  leads  from 
Pontarlier  to  Lausanne  (fares  from  Paris,  67  fr.,  47  fr. 
80  c,  35  fr.). 

From.  Paris  to  Basle,  by  Troyes,  Chmimont,  Vesoul,  and 
Belfort,  the  fortress  which  made  a  heroic  resistance  in 
1870,  and  thence  either  through  Alsace,  touching  at 
Mulhouse,  or  by  nelle  to  Basle. 

From,  Paris  to  Basle,  via  Nancy,  Strasbourg,  aud 
Mulhouse  (fare,  75  fr.  60  c).  The  interesting  towus  on 
this  rout.p  are  Meaux  {Hotel  des  3  Uois),  25  M.  from 
Paris,  in  a  loveiy  siniiition  on  tlif^  Marne.  8upf^v'i 
Gothic  CatJiedral  of  St.  hMeime,  with  Monuments  oj 
Bossuet  (who  was  Bishop  of  Meaux)  and  Philip  oJ 
Castille.  Ghdteau  Thierry  was  the  birth)3lace  of  La. 
foiitaine.  From  Epernay  branch  (fare,  3fr.  70c.)  to 
"RhQims)  Hotel  Lion  d''Or;  Grand;  Commerce),  city  of 
105,000  iuhab.  In  its  cathedral  the  kings  of  Prance 
have  been  crowned.  See  magnificent  (jot\i\Q,  Abbey  C/i. 
of  SI.  Pemi,  founded  by  Clovis  in  6th  century;  and 
Cathedral,  built  1212-1430,  and  one  of  the  grandest 


200  SEDAN.  —  TOUL.  —  NANCY.  —  THE  VOSGES. 

in  Europe.  It  is  466  ft.  long  and  124  ft.  liigli ;  tilled 
with  beautiful  statues  and  monuments.  Splendid  rose- 
windows  and  interesting  Treasury.  Charles  VII.  was 
crowned  here  ;  Joan  of  Arc  standing  by  his  side.  The 
Hotel  de  Ville  contains  a  fine  public  library.  Rly.  to 
Sedan  {Hotel  de  la  Croix  d'Or'),  where  MacMahon's 
army  of  80,000  men  surrendered. 

Beyond  Epeniay  on  Ihe  main  line  is  Ch^lons-sur- 
Marne  ;   and  Bar-le-Duc  {Hotel  du  Cygne).     Statues 
of  Marshal  Oudinotand  Gen.  Excelmans  ;  monument  of 
the  Prince  of  Orange,     Toul,  on  the  Moselle,  is  a  for- 
tress which  was  besieged  in  1870.     Nancy  ( Grand; 
Americain;    de  Paris),   the    old   capital    of    Lor- 
raine, and  the  prettiest  town  in  France,  with  a  large 
Cathedral,  an  interesting  Museum  (in  the  Hotel  de 
Ville),  a  splendid  now  Prefecture,  and  a  fine  speci- 
men of  Flamboyant  Gothic  in  the  Palace  of  ihe  Dukes 
of  Lorraine.     Mtre  Dame  de  Bon-Secours  contains 
the  Tomb  of  Stanislas,  ex-King  of  Poland,  who  lived 
in  Nancy  after  abdicating  his  throne  in  1735.     See 
triumphal  arch  ;    two  fountains  ;    and   Statues  of 
Thiers,    Oallot,   Drouot,   and   Stanislas.      Near  the 
gate  of  St.  Jean  is  the  Cross  of  the  Duke  of  Bur- 
gundy,  close  to  which  was    found    the    body    of 
Charles  the  Bold,  after  tlie  celebrated  battle  (1477). 
Beyond  Nancy  you  pass  through  the  Vosges  Mts. 
and  down  to  Strasbourg, 


ST.  QUENTIN,  —  MONS.  —  VALENCIENNES.  201 


BELGIUM. 

WE  now  invite  your  attention  to  the  route  from 
Paris  to  Brussels  and  other  sections  of  Belgium, 
our  advice  being  that  it  is  vi^ell  to  see  portions  of  Bel- 
gium, Holland,  and  Germany  before  visiting  Switzerland 
and  Italy. 

The  most  direct  route  from  Paris  to  Brussels  is 
from  the  Gare  du  Nord,  via  Tergnier,  Maubeuge,  and 
Mons  (time,  6^  hrs. ;  fares,  36fr.  20  c.,  27  fr.  20  c., 
18  fr.  90  c).  You  pass  through  St.  Denis ;  Cliantilly ; 
Creil ;  Compiegne  ;  St.  Quentin,  an  important  manu- 
factaring  centre,  with  a  noble  ch.  as  well  as  a  magnifi- 
cent City  Hall  of  the  14th  and  15th  centuries ;  through 
the  valley  of  the  Sambre  to  Mauheuge  and  thence  to 
Feignies,  the  French  frontier.  Mons  (Jlotel  Couronne) 
had  a  castle  built  by  Julius  Csesar.  It  is  the  centre 
of  a  great  coal-mining  countrj.  Splendid  interior  of 
the  Cathedral  of  St.  Waudru  (1450-1589)  and  Hotel 
de  Ville  (1158).  Belfry  built  in  1662  by  the  Spaniards. 
At  Malplaquet,  8  M.  S.  E.,  Marlborough  defeated  the 
French  in  1700,  and  lost  20,000  men.  Between  Mons 
and  Brussels  is  Hal,  with  the  elegant  14th-century  Notre 
Dame,  still  a  place  for  pious  pilgrimages.  Before  reach- 
ing Brussels  you  can  see  Ste.  Gudule's  towers. 

Another  route  from  Paris  to  Brussels  traverses 
Amiens,  Arras,  Douai,  and  Mons  (fares,  39  fr.  25  c, 
29  fr.  45  c,  20  fr.  55  c).  Douai  {Hotel  de  Flandre)  is 
an  important  place  de  guerre,  and  has  an  interestmg  mu- 
seum and  town-hall.  Valenciennes  is  also  a  strong 
old  fortress  and  a  great  manufacturing  town.  Here 
is  a  statue  of  Froissart,  the  chronicler,  born  in  Valen- 
ciennes.    From  thence  to  Mons  you  pass  through  a 


203  LILLE  -  NAMUR  -  LIEGE 

fertile  and  populous  country,  by  Jemmapes,  where  tho 
French  won  a  great  victory  over  the  Austrians  itf 
1792. 

There  is  also  a  direct  route  from  Paris  to  Ghep-t  bj 
Lille,  Roubaix,  and  Courtrai  (9  hrs. ;  fares,  37  fr.  70  c.^ 
28  fr.  25  c).  Lille.  {Hotel  de  I' Europe),  a  manufactur- 
ing town  of  188,000  inhab.,  is  a  first-class  fortress  oit 
the  river  Deule.  St.  Catherines  Ch.  has  an  altar-piece 
by  Rubens.  In  the  Wicar  Museum  is  a  precious  col- 
lection of  drawings  by  the  Italian  masters.  In  the 
great  square  is  a  column  commemorative  of  the  Aus* 
Frian  siege  of  1792.  Statue  of  Gen.  Negrier,  killed  at 
Paris  in  1848.  Roubaix,  5  M.  beyond,  is  a  great 
woollen  and  cotton  working  town  of  83,000  inhab.  • 
production  $40,000,000  yearly.  Tourcoing,  the  PrepcJ^ 
frontier,  is  a  factory-town. 

From  London  one  may  go  via  Calais  to  Brussels 
by  Lille  and  Tournai  (fares  from  Calais,  21  fr.  30  c., 
15  fr.  95  c,  11  fr.  40  c).  Leaving  London  at  8.05  p.m. 
you  reach  Brussels  at  6  a.m.  (fares,  £211  s.,  £1 18  s.) 

From  Paris  to  Liege,  da  Charier oi,  is  228|-  M.  (ex- 
press in  8  hrs. ;  fares,  42  fr.  40  c,  31  fr.  90  c,  21  fr. 
35  c).  This  is  also  the  route  from  Paris  to  Cologne 
(fares  from  Paris,  59  fr.  35  c,  44  fr.  20  c).  Charle- 
roi  is  a  modern  town,  an  industrial  centre  of  Belgium. 
The  environs  are  fine.  46,000  workmen  employed  in 
coal-mining.  The  line  crosses  the  Sambre  13  times 
on  the  way  to  Namur,  a  pretty  fortified  town, 
of  Boman  origin,  with  a  vast  old  citadel,  on  the  Meuse. 
It  has  several  spacious  squares,  and  a  Pocnaissance 
Cathedral.  Namur  has  sustained  several  celebrated 
sieges,  —  among  others  that  of  1692,  commanded  by 
Louis  XIV.  in  person.  Archaeological  Museum,  worth 
visitin.^.     From  Namur  you  may  go  to  Luxembourg. 

Liege   {d'Arigleterre ;   de  VUniv&i^s ;  Chemin  de 


BELGIUM.  303 

Fer;  De8uede}.tl\e¥\em\sh  LiiicJc  nnd  German  Lilttich, 
has  140,000  inhab.,  and  is  picturesquely  situated  on 
the  Meuse.    See  Quentin  Durward  for  a  recital  of  the 

striking  events  in  its  history.  This  town,  "  tlie  Shef- 
field of  Belgium,"  is  noted  for  its  weapon-factories, 
and  one  quarter  is  given  uj)  to  workshops.  The  Chs. 
of  St.  Jacques,  SL  FtiNl,  St.  Martin,  St.  CroLr  (lOtli 
centuryj,  St.  Barthelemy,  as  well  as  the  Cathedral  St. 
Paul,  should  be  seen.  The  Choir  of  the  cathedral 
dates  from  tlie  13th  century.  The  splendid  Gothic 
Palais  de  Justice  (described  in  Quentin  I)urv:ard')  was 
the  palace  of  the  prince-bishops,  built  in  1508-40  by 
Cardmal  de  la  Marck,  a  relative  of  the  "  Wild  Boar 
of  the  Ardennes."  See  Arch/pological  Museum  ;  Hotel 
deVille;  University  (library,  100,000  vols.)  ;  the  Com- 
munal Museum ;  the  Citadel,  with  grand  vievvs;  \\\^  Royal 
Cannon  -  foundry.  The  environs  have  beautiful 
scenery. 

The  route  to  Cologne  traverses  a  picturesque  region 
to  Verviers  (15|  M.),  a  modern  city  of  woollen-factories; 
tJience  to  Ai.r-la-ChapeUe.  From  Liege  you  may  \asit 
Spa.  On  the  way  is  Chaudfontaine  i^Hutel  des  Bains; 
D'Angleterre),  a  famous  watering-place.  The  waters 
(used  in  baths)  are  beneficial  in  nervous  diseases.  8  M.  . 
beyond  is  Pepinster,  whence  runs  a  branch  line  (^  hr.) 
to  Spa  [Hotel  de  Flandre  ;  H  Orange  ;  De  York  ;  Des 
Pays  Bas ;  Grand  Hotel  Britannique ;  Casino,  Hue 
Royale),  one  of  the  oldest  of  European  watering-places. 
The  climate  is  remarkably  fine,  although  exposed  to 
sudden  variations,  dangerous  for  consumptives.  The 
waters  are  tonic  (iron).  3-4  glasses  should  be  taken 
daily,  and  the  cure  demands  6-8  weeks.  Season,  May 
15-Oct.  15.  20,000  visitors  come  here  annually.  The 
village  (6,000  inhab.)  is  in  a  pretty  glen,  anionp-  wooded 
hills  and  scenery  famous  for  beauty. 


204  LUXEMBOURG.  —  BRUSSELS. 

rrom  Namur  you  may  goto  Luxembourg  and  Treves, 
and  thence  make  a  delightful  excursion  down  the  Mo> 
selle  by  steamboat  to  Coblence.  You  may  also  go  from 
Liege  (]09f  M.  hi  5-6  hrs.)  to  Luxembourg. 

Luxembourg,  the  famous  fortress,  the  capital  of  the 
g)*and  duchy,  was  made  a  neutral  state  by  the  Treaty  of 
London  iu  1867.  It  is  very  picturesquely  situated 
on  a  rocky  plateau,  with  precipices  on  8  sides.  The 
Alzette  valley  is  divided  by  a  fortified  rock  called  the 
Bock,  on  which  is  the  ancient  Wlelunina  Tor>er.  See 
Cathedral,  Hotel  de  Ville,  Archaeological  Musi^unc, 

Rlys.  hence  to  Treves  or  Metz,  by  TMonuUe. 

Brussels  and  Environs. 

Brusseh  (Hotel  3Ietropole  ;  De  Flandre;  Grand; 
De  Vienne ;  De  V Europe  ;  Mengelle  ;  Hollap4e;  De 
Saxe;  de  V'Em'pereur),  the  capital  of  Belgir«m,  has 
(including  suburbs)  475,000  inhab.  To  appreciate 
Brussels,  read  the  liistories  of  the  old  tawn, — • 
the  terrible  period  of  the  Spanish  dominatioi,  the 
riots  and  bombardments  in  the  17th  centurj  ,  the 
annexation  to  France,  and  tlie  union  with  and  acces- 
sion from  tlie  Low  Countries.  Brussels  stands  on 
an  undulating  plain.  It  is  divided  into  the  Upper  and 
Lower  Towns.  On  the  hiil  are  the  joajaces,  the  Park, 
and  the  fine  Rue  Royale.  Below,  in  the  picturesque 
older  portion,  are  the  commercial  classes.  Brussels 
is  on  the  hue  between  the  Walloons  and  Tlemings; 
and  you  will  hear  French  and  Flemish  spoken,  the 
former  prevailing.  Go  first  to  the  Gignde^Pkice,  the 
ancient  forum  ol'  Brussels.  Note  the  exquisite  fafade 
of  the  Hqfd  de-Vi-Ue  (built  1402-43),  and  the  stately 
spire,  370  ft.  high,  at  wliose  top  is  a  colossal  statue 
of  St.  Michael.  Entrance  fee,  50  c.  Beautiful  tapes- 
tries and  paintings  in  the  Salle  des  Fetes,  etc.    Opposite 


BELcauM.  ::05 

(is  the  MaL&im'djji^Roi,  built  by  Charles  V.  (1514-25). 
j  There  were  imprisoned  Counts  Escmont  and  Hoorne, 
and  in  front  they  were  decapitated,  in  1568.  Many 
of  picturesque  houses  on  the  Place  were  built  by  the 
Guilds,  as  meeting-places.  Tournaments  were  held 
here  in  the  15th  ce?itury.  The  famous  3Iannikin 
fountain  is  back  of  the  Hotel  de  Ville.  The  GaUrie 
St.-Hubert  is  one  of  the  finest  arcades  in  Europe. 
In  the  steep  Rue  Montague  de  la  Cour  are  the  finest 
shops.  At  the  top  is  the  Place  Royale.  Go  first  fo 
the  Ji2i.s£2ii?^  (Place  du  Musee).  On  the  left  is  the 
great  Palais  de  Vlndustrie,  with  statue  of  Prince 
Chcirles  of  Lorraine.  The  Museum  of  Painting  (open 
lG-5  in  summer)  contains  13  canvases  by  Rubens; 
many  Van  Dycks,  Holbeins,  and  Rembrandts.  The 
AncifiJit  Museum  is  rich  in  tapestries.  In  the 
Modern  Museum  there  are  many  good  pictures. 
Next  take  the  Rue  de  la  Regence,  ending  at 
the  new  Palais  de  Justice,  which  covers  more 
ground  than  St.  Peter's  at  Rome,  and  cost 
$8,400,000.  Vast  dome.  Near  by  is  the  Palais 
des  Beaux-Arts,  with  fine  statues  and  groups  ;  the 
Palace  of  the  Comte  de  Flandres ;  the  Place  du 
Petit  Sablon,  with  monuments  to  Counts  Egmont 
and  Hoorne  ;  the  Royal  Conservatory  of  Music; 
and  the  Synagogue.  JSIest,  going  by  the  Rue 
Royale,  visit  the  Park,  a  lovely  promenade 
(military  music,  3-4|,  in  summer);  then  to  the 
King's  Palace,  simple,  but  well  stocked  with  fine 
pictures.  When  the  flag  is  up,  the  King  is  there. 
When  he  is  not,  strangers  are  admitted  (2  fr.). 
Ministries  in  elegant  buildings  near  the  Park. 
The  Palais  des  Academies  is  near  the  Park. 
This  building,  in  Italian  style,  contams  the 
Plaster  Museum  (free.  10-4)  the  Academies  of 
letters,     arts     and     sciences,    and    medicine:    an/> 


206  STE.  GUDULE.-WATERLOO, 

a  noble  concert  hall,  with  paintings  of  episodes  in 
Belgian  history. 

Ste.  Gudale,  the  great  Gothic  Church  (open  all 
day ;  to  climb  the  towers,  1  person,  2fr. ;  2-6  persons, 
3fr.),  was  founded  in  the  11th-century;  choir  and 
transept,  13th  century;  towers  and  nave,  14th.  The 
carved  pulpit,  made  in  1699,  represents  the  Expulsion 
from  Paradise.  Superb  stained-glass  windows;  and 
many  rare  old  tombs. 

'Other  ObjecU  of  Lfferest.  —  Place  de^  Martyrs,  with 
monument  to  those  who  perished  in  the  llevolution  of 
1830;  Place  des  Barricades,  and  statue  of  Vesalius, 
tlie  anatomist ;  Place  dv  Jjuxemljoiirg,  statue  of  Cocke- 
rill ;  Place  de  la  Monnaie,  and  Opera  House  ;  Bourse ; 
Rue  Neuve ;  handsome  nevr  boulevards  around  tlie  old 
city;  Observatory;  hospitals;  National  Bank;  Mnsee 
Wiertz  (fantastic  compositions  of  a  Belgian  painter)  ; 
Museum  of  Antiquities,  and  Porte  de  Hal ;  precious 
paintings  in  Aremberg  Palace ;  Boiaiiical  Garden ; 
Bois  de  la  Camhre,  the  Bois  de  Boulogne  of  Brussels. 

At  Laeken,  2  M.  N.,  is  the  Ch.  of  Ste: Marie,  where 
members  of  the  royal  family  are  buried.  In  the  cem= 
Btery,  grave  and  statue  of  Malibran.  —  Boyal  Palace, 
J.he  King's  favorite  residence.  Monument  to  Leo- 
pold I.  —  Manor  of  Bouchout,  where  dwells  Carlotta, 
ex-Empress  of  Mexico. 

Waterloo  may  be  reached  by  rly.  to  Braine  1' Al- 
len d,  and  walk  (^  hr.)  to  the  Buttf  du  Linn,  or  to 
Waterloo^  and  go  over  to  t lie  battle-field  by  omnibus  ; 
or  you  can  go  by  mail-coach  from  the  Place  Poi/alc,  at 
9.30  a.m.  (round-trip,  7  fr.  ;  ooacliman,  1  \x?).  Guides, 
Belgian  and  English,  on  the  Held  (f'^es,  2-4  fr.).  Water- 
joo  is  a  Flemish  village.  The  Mt.  St.  Jean  and  the 
Butte  dn  Lion,  on  which  is  a  "pyramid  and  a  colossal. 
lion,  should  be  visited.     JSluse^  m  at  Llotel  dn  Mnsee. 


BELGIUM.  207 

Louvain  {Hotel  de  Suede ;  Du  Nord),  population 
35,000,  may  be  visited  from  Brussels  in  1  hr,  (fares, 
2  fr.  30  c.,'l  fr.  75  c,  1  fr.  15  c).  This  was  one  of 
the  great  weaving-centres ;  but  after  1383  the  weavers 
went  to  England.  The  Hotel  de  Ville  is  one  of  the 
marvels  of  Belgium.  This  jewel  of  Gothic  art  was 
built  1448-63.  Exterior  lavishly  decorated  with  stat- 
ues. The  great  Gothic  Ch.  of  SI.  Pierre  (open, 
except  2-4)  has  a  fine  tabernacle  and  many  remark- 
able paintings.  Les  Ha  lies,  built  1317,  and  the  vast 
prison,  should  be  seen.  The  University,  founded  in 
1426,  is  Roman  Catholic,  and  has  1,000  students 
(formerly  6,000). 

Ghent,  Bruges,  Antwerp,  etc. 

You  may  visit  Ghent  and  Bruges  from  Antwerp  or  Brus- 
sels ;  oi",  if  you  come  directly  from  England  to  Ostend, 
you  can  go  thi-ough  Bi-uges  and  Ghent  to  Brussels.  Fares, 
Dover  to  Ostend,  15  s.,  10  s.;  68  M.;  time,  4-6  hrs. 
Fares,  Ostend  to  Brussels,  9  fr.  30  c,  6  fr.  95  c,  4  fr.  65  c. 

Ostend  (Continental;  de  la  Plage;  de  V Ocean;  Vic- 
toria; Lion  dOr)  is  the  second  maritime  town  in 
Belgium  (20,000  inh.)  and  the  summer  residence  of 
the  king.  It  receives  about  18,000  visitors  annually. 
Renowned  sea-baths  ;  magnificent  stone  dyke,  ^  M. 
long;  monumental  Cursaal;  Leopold  Park,  filled  with 
caf6s.  Celebrated  oyster-parks  here.  From  Ostend 
it  is  14  M.  (fares,  1  fr.  75  c,  1  fr.  35  c,  90  c.)  to 

Bruges  {Hotel  de  Flandre;  de  V  JJnivers;  Du  Com- 
merce; St.  Amand),  45,000  inh.,  on  the  grand  canals 
to  Ostend,  Ghent,  and  Sluys.  It  is,  like  Amsterdam, 
called  the '  *  Venice  of  the  North,"  because  seamed  with 
canals.  Handsome  rly.  stat.  Guides,  1-3  fr.  The 
18th  century  was  the  epoch  of  Bruges'  greatest  pros- 


208  BRUGES. 

parity.  It  was  the  centre  of  the  trade  of  the  Hanseatic 
League,  and  the  chief  coinniercial  city  of  Europe.  Its 
decline  dates  from  1545.  In  the  Grand  Place  is  the 
Meur  de  Ble  Inn  of  whicli  Longfellow  sings.  There  also 
stood  the  house  in  which  Maximilian  was  confined  in 
the  revolt  of  1488  ;  and  opposite  is  tlie  liome  of  Charles 
11.  of  England,  in  his  exile.  The  Cathedral  (open 
daily,  except  12-4;  opened  then  for  small  fee)  stands 
on  the  site  of  one  built  in  1358,  and  has  a  great  num- 
Wv  of  fine  old  Flemish  pictures  (fee  to  cUmb  the  tower, 
1  fr.).  Noire  Dame  contains  some  veiled  paintings, 
shown  for  a  fee  of  |  fr.  The  choir  and  nave  date  from 
1186;  the  tower  from  1250.  It  is  the  largest  brick 
tower  in  Belgium,  —  390  ft.  high  (fee,  I  fr.).  Hand- 
some bronze  doors  ;  exquisite  marble  group  of  the 
Virgin  and  Child,  by  Michael  Angelo,  over  the  altar. 
In  chapel  on  r.  (1  fr.),  sumptuous  ancient  tombs  ot 
Charles  the  Bold  and  his  daugliter  Marie.  Carven 
pulpit.     Large  collection  of  paintings. 

The  Belfry  of  Bruges  (see  Longfellow),  one  of  the 
quaint  monuments  of  tlie  Comn/unes,  is  350  ft.  higii, 
(fee,  -^fr.  below,  ^  fr.  above).  The  chimes  (48  bells) 
play  every  quarter-liour. —  The  Hotel  de  Ville  (1377) 
is  a  noble  Gothic  edifice,  with  6  towers. — The  Hospital 
St.  Jean,  W.  of  Notre  Dame  (open  daily,  except  Sun., 
9-12,  and-  1-6,  -^fr.),  is  renowned  for  its  marvellous 
paintings  by  Hans  Memling.  Do  not  fail  to  see  these. 
Tlie  Chdsse  de  Ste.  Ursule  is  the  best.  The  Academy  of 
Fine  Arts  (|  fr.)  has  many  remarkable  picrures  by  the 
old  masters.  In  St.  Jacques  are  brass  engraved  monu- 
ments  of  Spanish  families.  —  The  Chapelle  du  St.  Sang 
was  built  in  1150  as  the  receptacle  for  a  phial  tliat  the 
Patriarch  of  Jerusalem  had  given  to  Tlieodoric  of  Elan- 
ders,  with  some  drops  of  the  Saviour's  blood.  Portal 
and  staircase.  Flamboyant    Gothic.      The   P^dai^  de 


BELGIUM.  209 

Justice  (rebuilt,  1723)  has  a  carved  c-himney -piece 
(1528-29)  ill  the  Court  Room  (^fr).  Bruj^vs,  though 
decadent  and  melancholy,  is  celebrated  for  pretty 
girls  and  decorated  old  houses.  See  statues  of 
Memling  and  Jan  van  Eyck.  From  Bruges  it  is  f 
hr.  (fares,  3fr.  40c.,  2fr.  55c.,  Ifr.  70c.)  to 

Ghent  (Hotel  Royal;  de  la  JPosie;  de  Vienne),  a 
city  of  145,000  inhab..  on  the  river  Scheldt.  The 
town  is  divided  into  26  islands,  and  has  88  bridges. 
The  history  of  Ghent  is  romantic.  It  became  the  capi- 
tal of  Flanders  in  1180.  200  years  earlier,  Baudouin 
had  introduced  weaving.  The  great  Guilds,  under 
Jacques  van  Artevelde^,  etc.,  ruled  this  region  for  % 
centuries,  and  often  came  to  blows  among  themselves, 
as  on  May  2,  1345,  when  1,500  men  were  slain  in  a 
terrible  street-battle.  In  tlie  15th  century  there  were 
40,000  weavers ;  and  the  woollen  workers  alone  fur- 
nished 18,000  men  to  the  civic  army.  Charles  V.  was 
born  in  Ghent  in  1500.  From  the  Spanish  domina- 
tion dates  the  decline.  11,000  inhab.  emigrated  at 
once  to  England  and  Holland.  Louis  XIY.  took  the 
town  after  a  siege  of  6  days,  in  1698.  In  1810  Napo- 
leon I.  made  a  ceremonial  entry,  with  Marie  Louise. 

Notice  tlie  Marclie  du  Vendredi,  a  great  square 
surrounded  by  old  houses.  In  the  middle,  the  politi- 
cal forum  of  Ghent,  stands  a  statue  of  Van  Artevelde. 
In  the  Cathedral  of  St.  Ba';on  {oTpen  daily,  except 
12-1)  see  the  vast  crypt,  built  in  991  and  restored  in 
1228  ;  the  noble  nave  and  transepts  (1533) ',  and  the 
tower,  built  in  1533-34  (416  steps ;  fee,  2  fr.,  1-4 
persons).  See  the  picture  of  "The  Adoration  of  the 
Spotless  Lamb,"  by  the  brothers  Van  Eyck.  Al- 
though more  than  400  years  old,  it  preserves  its  bril- 
liancy of  coloring.  Here  also  is  a  cAef-d'oeuvre  of 
Rubens,   Two  statues  of  Sts.  Peter  and  Paul  ornament 


210  GHENT.  —  MECHLIN. 

the  clioir.     The  Hotel  de  Fille,  built  1481-1628,  is  a 
remarkably  beautiful  Flamboyant  building,  whose  E. 
fayade  is  very  striking.     The  Belfry,  built  1183-1389, 
whose  bells  assembled  the  citizens,  is  38G  ft.  liigh,  and 
commands  an  extensive  prospect  over  Flanders  (ascj^it, 
2  fr.).     There  are  44  bells  in  the  chime,  including  Ro- 
land.   The  Beguinage,  the  chief  curiosity  in  Ghent,  is 
a  community  of  women  who  are  not  bound  by  vows, 
but  live  by  their  own  labors  or  resources.     This  insti- 
tution of  secular  saints  had  its  origin  in  the  7<h  century. 
The  old  Grand  Beguinage  formed  a  separate  quarter  of 
the  city,  surrounded  by  walls,  and  included  18  convejits 
and  100  houses.     The  new  suburban  one  has  many' 
handsome  Gothic  houses,  aud  a  vast  ch.     600  women 
live  here,  and  make  rich  laces.     See  8t.  Jacques  Ch.  \ 
Sf.  Nicholas  and  St.  Michael,  crowded  with  picture  s ; 
Bt.  Pierre,  with  rare  old  paintings  ;  the  imposing  Fains 
de  Justice ;    the  University,  with  a  splendid  marjle 
rotunda,   aud   a   library    in    old   Baudeloo   Monastery 
(100,000  vols.)  ;  aud  the  M/iseuni  (t  fr.)     The  O^idebn  -g 
is  a  remnant  of  the  old  palace  of  the  Counts  of  Flandeis, 
where  John  of  Gaunt  was  born,  1340.     On  Marche 
du  Veu'li-edi  is  an  old  cannon,  such  as  stone  missiles 
were  tired  from.     See  Botanical  Giirden  (Ghent  is 
called  ' '  The  Queen  of  Flowers  "j;  Zoological  Gai'den 
<f''e.  Ifr.);  y\\\\\s,  ol  Abbey  of  St.  Bavou.    Fai-es  from 
Ghent.to  Brussels,  4fi-.  35c  ,  3fr.  25c.,  2fr.  20c. 

From  Brjissels  to  Antiverp  trains  \  un  in  1  iir.,  pass- 
ing Malines,  or  Mechlin(La  Cigogne;  Beffer;  de  'a 
Coui'OJine),  a  city  of  40,000  inhcib.,  the  ecciesiastijal 
capital  of  Belgium  In  1572-80  the  town  was  sac];i!d 
and  burned  by  the  Spaniards,  the  ti'oops  of  the  Pri  1 3e 
of  Orange,  and  Hie  English.  See  the  Cathedral  of  *5  'L 
Sombold,hegun  in  1451.  Imposing  interior  and  ear  i  ;d 
pulpit.     Huge  tower,  320  ft.  high,  with  a  spleuiilid 


BELGIUM.  211 

ehime  of  44  bells.  In  the  S.  transept  is  The 
Crucifixion,  by  Van  Dyck.  In  Notre  Dame  is 
Rubens's  Miraculous  Draught  of  Fishes  (1  tV.).  JwSt. 
Jean  is  a  hue  Trlpti/ch  by  Rubens  (i  li'.).  Mechlin  is 
renowned  for  its  beautiful  lace. 

Antweip  {jliuilI  ibc.  ^nitotiie;  Grand;  Commerce; 
du  Ellin;  d' Aiigleterre;  Be  V Europe;  Qrand  La- 
houreur  ;  Be  la  Paix)  is  one  of  the  most  nourishing'  com- 
mercial towns  in  Europe  (340,000  inhab.),  and  one  of 
the  quaintest  a.nd  most  replere  with  historical  and  artis- 
tic interest.  Napoleon  I.  wished  to  malce  Antwerp 
a  great  maritime  arsenal,  and  built  vast  clocks; 
but  the  Antwerp  jjeople  have  constructed  others 
yet  more  vast.  Oiimb  the  Catuedral  Tower  (75  c), 
and  look  over  the  crowded  Scheldt,  and  over  tiic  Low 
Countries  from  Breda  to  Brussels.  Tiie  Cathedral 
(built  1352-1530)  is  ihe  most  imposing  ch.  in  Belgium 
(open  daily).  Wlien  closed,  ask  porter  for  ke\s 
(1  fr.).  The  innjestic  interior  (384  ft.  long,  130 
ft.  high)  is  divided  into  7  aisles,  by  6  rows  of  col- 
umns. Choir  built  1352-1411.  Philip  II.  once  held 
a  Chapter  of  the  Order  of  the  Golden  Fleece  here. 
In  1566  tlie  Iconoclasts  did  irreparable  damage.  "(See 
Motley's  "  Dutch  Republic,"  for  romantic  episodes  in 
Antwerp's  history.)  In  the  r.  transept  is  Rubens's 
Descent  from  the  Cross,  usually  kept  veiled.  In  the  1. 
transept  is  R.ubens's  The  Elevation  of  the  Cross.  Above 
the  high  altar  is  The  Assumption,  also  by  Rubens. 
See  stone  outside  with  the  epitaph  of  Queutin  Matsys, 
and  the  sculptured  pulpit  and  tabernacles.  The  mag- 
nificent tower  is  402  ft.  high  (finished  1530) ;  the 
eiiimes  have  99  bells.  Napoleon  likened  this  tower  to 
Mechlin  lace.  Near  the  portal  is  the  celebrated  iron 
well-canopv  made  by  Quentin  Matsys.  8t.  Paul, 
St.  Andrem.  and  St.  Antoine  contain  rare  old  Flemish 
paintings.    The  Oh.  of  St.  Jacques  (built  1429-1507) 


313  ROTTERDAM. 

contains  the  tomb  of  Rubens,  and  many  good  pictures 
and  sculptures  (small  fee).  St. Augustine  has  pictures 
by  Rubens,  Van  Dyck,  etc.  The  Motel  de  Ville,  built 
in  1561-65.  contains  splendid  mural  paintings  (done 
in  1864-69)  in  the  Salle  Leys.  Many  old  Guild  houses 
(1513-79)  near  by.  Visit  the  beautiful  new  Gothic 
Bourse;  the  Palais  de  Justice ;  and  the  House  of 
Ruhens  (Rue  Rubens),  where  the  painter  died.  The 
Museum  (open daily,  9-5)  is  the  best  in  Belgium:  700 
paintings  here,  with  many  Rubenses  and  Van  Dycks 
(catalogue,  S^fr.).  For  notable  private  collections 
inquire  here.  The  new  Boulevards,  on  the  site  of  the 
walls;  the  vast  docks,  quays,  and  warehouses;  the 
Park:  and  the  statues  of  Rubens,  King  Leopold  I., 
Van  Dyck,  and  Teniers,  are  worth  seeing.  The  Cita- 
del and  fortifications  are  interesting. 

Steamers  from  Antwerp  to  Rotterdam  thrice 
weekly,  in  9  hours;  fares,  5  fr.  30  c,  3  fr.  20  c.  'To 
London,  Sun.,  Wed.,  and  Fri  ,  34  fr.  To  London 
via  Harwich,  daily,  34  fr.,  26  fr.  70  c.  Regular 
departures  for  all  the  great  ports  of  the  world. 


HOLLAND. 

rpHE   tourist  may  very  pleasantly  and  proiitably 
•^      spend  2-3   days  in   Holland.     Go   from   Ant- 
werp (time,  4  hrs. ;  fares,  10  fr.  45c.,  7  fr.  70c.,  4  fr. 
90c  )  to 

Rotterdam  {Maas;  Leygraaf;  Weimar;  Goomans; 
de  Hollande;  de  V Europe;  Victoria),  the  second  city 
in  Holland  (200,000  inhabitants).  The  Maas  is  here 
navigable  for  the  largest  ships;  and  the  scene  on  the 
quay  is  very  animated.  Superb  docks,  and  many 
canals.     The  steamboats   land  passengers  near  the 


HOLLAND  213 

Boompjes  quay.  Here  stood  the  Dutch  East  India 
House,  now  turned  into  colonial  warehouses.  Rot- 
terdam builds  many  ships;  has  a  heavy  trade  with 
Java  and  Sumatra,  and  steam  lines  to  London  and 
other  Atlantic  ports  ;  and  is  a  great  point  for  the 
departure  of  emigrants  for  America.  The  canals  are 
bordered  with  trees,  and  the  suburbs  are  pleasing. 
The  Iloogstraat^  the  Willen)skade,  the  new  quay,  are 
worth  seeing.  The  Museum  (open  daily,  11-3 ;  ^  f r. ) 
has  fine  examples  of  Rembrandt,  Rubens,  Durer, 
"Wouvermans,  and  Ary  Scheffer.  In  the  Oroote-Kerk 
is  a  noble  organ ;  also  monuments  of  several  famous 
admirals.  Good  view  from  the  tower,  297  feet  high 
(60  c.).  The  Old  Ch.,  the  S.  Ch.,  the  new  Toiv7i 
Hall,  the  Exchmige,  the  Botanical  fxardens,  the 
Zoological  Gardeus,  may  be  easily  seen  in  an  after- 
noon. The  statue  of  Erasmus  stands  m  the  Groote- 
Markt;  and  on  the  house  which  was  his  birthplace 
is  the  inscription,  Hcec  est  parva  domus,  magnus  qua 
natus  Erasmus.  The  Neiv  Park  is  W.  of  the  town. 
Walk  along  the  Maas,  noting  the  peculiar  costume 
of  the  peasantry  and  tiie  singular  neatness  of  the 
houses.  From  Rotterdam  to  the  Hague  takes  \  hr. 
(fares.  1  fl.  20  c,  1  fl.  60  c).  On  this  route  is 
Schiedam,  renowned  for  its  distilleries  (see  Hotel  de 

Ville  and  Hxcltange) ',  and  Delft  (Hotel  Lubrechfs), 
a  very  ancient  Dutch  town,  once  famous  for  porce- 
lain, but  now  dull  and  dignified.  The  staircase  on 
which  Wilham  of  Orange  was  shot  (1584)  is  still 
shown.  It  was  from  Delft  that  the  Pilgrims  embarked 
for  Plymouth,  America  (1620).  In  the  Otide  Kerk^ 
see  the  tomb  of  Admirals  Van  Troinp  (1653),  Hein, 
etc.  In  the  Nieuwe  Kerk  (1412-76)  is  the  magnificent 
Mausoleum  of  William  of  Orange. 

The  Hague  {Hotel  Bellevue;  d,es hides;  de  V Europe; 
Vieux  Doele7i ;  Ce7itral),  beautifully  situated  (0?i<ie 
Dobi^in),  the  capital  of  Holland  (156,000  inhab  ),  is 


214  THE  HAGUE.  —  SCHEVENINGEN. 

in  summer  one  of  the  most  charming  places  in  Europe. 
It  nestles  in  a  delightful  forest,  where  all  the  character- 
istics of  Dutch  scenery  —  mossy  trees,  green  banks,  and 
winding  brooks  and  canals  —  appear.  The  Museum  (open 
free  daily,  9-3  ;  Sat.,  10-1 ;  catalogue,  50  c.)  contains 
the  very  best  examples  of  the  Dutch  school  of  art,  and 
many  other  celebrated  paintings, — Paul  Potter's  famous 
Bull,  Rembrandt's  School  of  Anatomy,  the  Presenta- 
tion in  the  Temple,  etc.  On  the  E.  is  a  statue  of  Wil- 
liam the  Silent  (1848).  In  the  Buitenhof,  statue  of 
William  II.  Opposite  the  Royal  Palace,  equestrian 
statue  of  Prince  William  I.  See  the  Marine  Museum, 
with  its  wonderful  collection  of  models  for  ships  ;  the 
Roi/al  Library  {im,Qm  vols.) ;  the  collection  of  40,000 
coins  and  medals ;  the  Gfoote  Kerk,  with  its  beautiful 
tombs  ;  the  Kloster  Kerk  ;  the  New  Ch.,  where  Spinoza 
is  buried.  The  ponderous  old,  Binnenhof  Palace  and 
the  Buitenhof  square  are  of  great  historic  interest. 
The  Grand  Council  now  holds  its  sessions  in  the  an- 
cient torture-room.  Beyond  the  Buitenliof  you  reach 
the  gloomy  Gevangenport  tower,  where  De  Witt  was 
slain  in  1672.  In  the  Willems-Park  is  the  grand  Na- 
tional Monument  (built  1863-69),  covered  with  statues. 
The  national  buildings  are  plain  and  substantial.  On 
the  Noordeincle  is  the  Royal  Palace,  and  the  old  Mu^ 
seum  of  King  William  II.  Prince  Frederick'' s  Palace 
is  not  far  from  the  Park.  See  the  pretty  royal  villa 
called  Huis  ten  Bosch,  built  in  1647,  and  filled  with 
treasures  of  art  (fee,  1  fl  ).  Erom  the  Hotel  Bellevue, 
steam  tramway  (2^-3  M.)  to  the  pretty  seaside  resort 
of  Scheveningen  {Grand  Hotel  des  Bains,  prices  mod- 
erate), a  fishing-village  among  the  dunes.  In  summer, 
the  fashionable  world  of  North  Germany,  Holland,  and 
England,  and  many  people  from  the  S.,  assemble  here 
Beautiful  sea  views  ajid  fine  forests,    Leyden  and  Haar- 


HOLLAND.  215 

Um  may  be  visited  between  The  Hague  and  Amster* 
dam  (fares  to  Amsterdam,  4  fl.,  3  fl.  5c.,  2  "fl, ;  to 
Leyden,  80  c.,  60  c. ,  40  c. ;  from  Leyden  to  Haarlem, 
1  flo.  40  c.;  Ifl.,  lOc,  70c.). 

Leyden  {Hotel  Lezedag ;  Lion  cVOr ;  Central: 
40,000  inhab.,  famous  for  the  great  siege  (see  Mot- 
ley). It  possessed  100,000  weavers.  Leading  ob- 
jects of  interest;  the  spacious  Hooglandsche  Kerk;  the 
Natural  History  Museum  (open  daily,  free),  witli  the 
finest  cabinet  of  anatomy  in  Europe  (o})en  daily,  2-5, 
except  Sun  );  the  Museum  of  A  ?itig uities  (oi:)en  free 
Sun.,  12-7,  Tues.,  Thurs.,  and  Sat.,  11-4)  ;  the  Jap- 
anese Museum  (open  daily,  50  c.) ;  the  jVumumatio 
(open  daily,  12-3)  ;  the  University  (600  students), 
founded  after  the  siege,  with  excellent  observatoiy  ; 
Library,  3,000  oriental  MSS.  (open  Mon.,  Wed., 
and  Sat.,  12-3)  ;  the  Botanic  Gardens  (E.  Indies 
plants)  ;  and  the  old  Castle  of  Hrusus.  The  Hr.el  de 
Ville  has  many  inscriptions  relative  to  the  siege  of 
1574. 

Haarlem  {Lion  d'Or ;  Filnckler  ;  Leeuwerik)  is 
a  town  of  28,000  inhab.  The  siege  by  the  Span- 
iards in  1572,  and  the  heroic  defense,  are  de- 
scribed in  Motley's  picturesque  history.  The  GatJie- 
dral  is  very  spacious  ;  28  columns  in  the  nave.  The 
vast  organ,  with  5,000  pipes,  is  played  Tues.  and 
Thurs.,  1-2  ;  at  other  times  12  fl.  for  a  party.  Visit 
the  interior.  Marble  crypt  under  the  organ.  From 
the  tower  extensive  view.  See  the  Teyler  Afiiseum; 
the  statue  of  Coster,  inventor  of  printing  with  metal 
types  ;  Coster's  House  ;  the  Museum  of  JSatural  His- 
tory ;  and  the  house  of  the  rich  banker,  Hope, 

Amsterdam  {Amstel;  PaysBas;  OldBiUe;  Brack's 
Doelen ;  Rondeel ;  Americain;  Palais  Royal)  is  a 
city  of  400,000  inhab.,  named  from  the  Amstel, 
an  inlet  of  the  Zuider  Zee,  communicating  with 
the  North   Sea,  by  the  N.  Holland  Canal,  50  M. 


216  AMSTERDAM. 

long,  the  most  gigantic  undertaking  at  the  time  ever 
execute'd.  It  commences  opposite  Amsterdam,  and  ex* 
tends  to  the  Holder  and  the  Texel ;  cost  $5,000,000. 
The  town  is  built  upon  piles  driven  into  the  sand.  Its 
canals  are  spanned  by  more  than  300  bridges.  The 
finest  view  is  from  the  Hooge  Sluys.  Near  by  is  St. 
Anthony's  Gate,  with  5  towers  (built  1488-1585).  The 
Palace  is  a  huge  stone  structure,  standing  on  13,695 
piles.  Neai-  it  are  the  Bam,  the  memorial  of  1831,  the 
Exchange^  the  Fost-Office,  the  Nieuwe  Kerk,  the  Sea- 
man's Club.  From  the  tower,  one  has  a  ma.gmu- 
cent  panorama  of  the  city.  Fine  marble  sculp- 
tures on  the  palace  front.  The  Throne  Hall,  the 
Grand  Hall,  decorated  with  trophies,  and  the  Au- 
dience Hall,  are  remarkable  (fee,  50  c).  The  Botan- 
ical and  Zoological  Gardens  (latter,  75  c.)  are  equal  to 
those  of  any  oilier  city.  TJie  principal  museum  (free 
daily,  10-3),  the  Trippenhuis,  has  the  best  collection  of 
paintings  in  Holland  (get  catalogue).  Note  the  works 
of  Rembrandt.  This  and  the  Vanderhoof  collection  are 
now  in  Ryks  Museum.  The  Oude  Mannenhuis  is  open, 
10-4.  The  Fodor  3Imeum  has  very  good  Fi-ench  and 
Butch  pictures.  The  Historical  Gallerij  is  devoted  to 
episodes  in  Dutch  history  (open  daily,  50  c. ;  catalogue 
75  c).  See  Fos  Museum;  statue  of  Rembrandt ;  monu- 
ment to  Yan  Speyk  ;  Blind  Asylum ;  Zeemanshoop 
(Sailors'  Hope),  a  club  with  2,000  members  ;  Normal 
School  of  Navigation  ;  Sailor  s  Home ;  great  range  of 
state  warehouses,  on  Etitrepot  Dock;  Park,  good  music 
on  Sun.  ;  shops  where  diamonds  are  polished ;  Jewish 
quarter  J  Cellular  Prison;  and  Crystal  Palace.  Am- 
sterdam is  the  cleanest  city  in  "Europe;  on  a  bright 
Sunday  it  presents  a  charming  spectacle.  Notice  the 
Fountain,  commemorating  the  events  hi  1830-31  lu 
the   old  ch    on  the  Dam,  monument  to  Van  Ruyter 


UTRECHT.  217 

Pleasant  excursions  to  Barmen,  and  other  pretty  sub- 
urban towns.  Broek,  6  M.  out,  is  a  wonderfully  clean 
village.  At  Zaandam  is  the  house  where  Peter  the 
Great  worked  when  learning  the  shipwright's  k'ade. 
Good  fish  dinners  here.  It  is  1  hr.  (23  M. ;  fares,  1  fl. 
70  c,  1  fl.  25  c,  85  c.)  from  Amsterdam  to 

Utrecht  {Kastcel  van  Antwerpen;  Pays  B as ;  de 
V Europe;  de  la  Station),  the  l\oman  Trajedum,  and 
the  home  of  many  Dutch  families  of  rank.  Noble 
Cathedral  here;  constructed  in  the  13lh  century, 
and  much  tried  by  hurricanes  and  iconoclasts. 
The  people  of  Utrecht  boast  that  from  the  tower, 
321  ft.  high,  you  can  see  all  Holland.  In  the 
church,  fine  organ  and  magnificent  mausoleums. 
South  of  the  cathedral  is  the  U nimrsitp ,  founded 
in  1636,  very  rich ;  600  students  ;  splendid  li- 
brary and  remarkable  Museum  of  JS'atii.ral  His- 
tory. The  Palace  of  the  Popes,  founded  by 
Adrian  VI.,  with  a  statue  of  St.  Salvador,  is  now 
the  palace  of  the  provincial  government.  Adrian  was 
born  in  Utrecht.  In  the  Stad/mls  are  a  ie\Y  pictures, 
J'ine  new  boulevards  around  the  city. 

From  Utrechu  you  can  begin  your  journey  up  the 
Rhine.  Take  rail  to  jJitsseldorf,  passing  Arnhem,  thj 
Arenacum  of  the  ancients.  Th:  Romans  encamped 
here  70  years  B.C.,  and  i*;  was  for  a  long  time  the  resi^ 
deuce  oi  th  Dukes  i  Guelders.  See  the  Cathedral, 
with  tomb  of  Count  .5gmont.  Tower,  333  ft.  high; 
wonderful  chimes.  The  Palace  of  Justice  has  ^  fine 
court-room.  Emmerich  {^Hotei  de  Hollande)  is  the 
firsi  German  towu. 


218  DiJSSELDORF.  —  COLOGNE. 


GERMANY  AND  AUSTRIA. 

• 

FROM  Utrecht  to  Emmerich,  4  fl.  50  c,  3  fl.  40  c, 
2  ii.  25  c.  i  54i  M.  From  Emmerich  ^o  Diissel- 
dorf,  fares,  7  mks.  60  pt.,  5  mks.  70  pf.,  3  inks.  80  pf.  ; 
to  Cologne,  11  risks.  20  pf.,  8  mks.  40  pf.,  5  mks. 
yOpf.  ;  to  Eiaukfovt,  28  mks.  80  pf.,  21  mks,  20  pf., 
13  mks.  50))f. 

Diisseldorf  {BreidenbacJier  Ilof ;  Royal ;  Heck; 
Momischer Kaiser),H,citj of  210,000  iiihab. ,  is  the  prin- 
cipal art-centre  on  the  Rhine.  The  Academy  of  Arts 
was  founded  in  1767 ;  it  occupies  Renaissance  build- 
ing erected  m  1879;  contains  lecture-halls,  studios, 
etc.  Here,  also,  are  the  remains  of  the  famous 
Gallery  of  Art,  and  many  drawings,  of  all  schools 
(open  Mon.,  Wed,,  Pri.,  and  Sat.,  12-1).  Handsome 
Rhine  Bridge;  Hofgarten,next  to  Pempelfurtergarten 
(now  Malkasten  Club),  haunts  of  Goethe  and  Herder. 
Ch.  of  St.  Lambert  contains  the  tombs  of  the  last 
Dukes  of  Cleve  and  Berg,  and  a  good  picture  by 
Achenbach.  /S/.  ^/i<ire2<.''s  is  very  interesting.  In  the 
hall  of  the  Realschule  is  a  freize  by  Bendemann,  In 
the  Courts  of  Justice  see  Schadow's  "  Heaven,  Hell, 
and  Purgatory."  Many  fine  modern  paintings  in  the 
Kuustlialle.  See  statues  of  Elector  John  William  111., 
Cornelius,  Emperor  William  1.,  Bismarck.  Museum 
of  Industry  and  Art  will  repay  visit.  Several  exhi- 
bitions of  pictures  in  the  town;  fees,  50  pf.  It  is  ^-f 
hr.  by  rly,,  or  by  boat  5  hrs.,  to 

Cologne  {Hotel  du  Nord ;  Disch;  Kolner  Hof; 
Victoria;  Du  Dome;  Ernst),  the  sixth  town  in  the 
German  Empire  (360,000  inhab.),  and  an  important 
garrison.  Streets  are  dark,  narrow  and  mediaeval. 
Many  houses  date  from  the  13th  century.     70  wide 


COLOGNE.  219 

streets  have  lately  been  laid  out.  Cologne  was  founded 
by  the  Ubii,  when  Agrippa  transfei-red  them  to  the  1. 
bank  of  the  Rhine ;  and  colonized  by  Roman  veterans 
when  Germanicus  held  command,  as  Colonia  Agrippina. 
It  was  tlie  residence  of  the  legates  of  Lower  Germany. 
Constantine  the  Great  built  a  bridge  here  in  308, 
afterwards  destroyed  by  the  Normans.  From  the  5tli 
century  it  was  a  part  of  the  Frankish  kingdom.  Exten- 
sive Roman  remains  here. 

The  Cathedral,  the  grandesl  Gothic  building  in  the 
world,  was  begun  iu  1248.  The  choir  was  consecrated 
in  1322,  and  the  nave  in  1388 ;  but  about  1500  the 
work  ceased,  and  in  1795  the  French  troops  used  the 
half-ruinous  ch.  for  a  hay-magazine.  Construction  was 
resumed  in  1823,  and  more  than  $3,000,000  spent 
upon  it  between  1842  and  1880,  when  it  was  consecrated, 
with  imposing  ceremonies.  The  superb  W.faqade  and 
lofty  portals  are  flanked  by  2  huge  towers,  crowned 
by  open  spires,  over  500  ft.  high.  The  bells  were 
placed  in  the  S.  tower  in  1447;  and  in  1874  a  new 
30-ton  bell,  made  from  French  cannon,  was  added.  A 
forest  of  flying  buttresses  joins  the  nave  and  aisles. 
The  total  length  is  444  ft. ;  breadth,  201  ft. ;  height  of 
nave,  145  ft.  There  are  4  aisles ;  and  the  triple-aisled 
transepts  extend  to  the  imposing  N.  and  S.  portals. 
Tlic-re  are  56  vast  columns  inside.  The  sfamed  win- 
dows in  the  N.  aisle  dare  from  1508-9  ;  those  in  the 
S.  aisle  (equally  beautiful)  are  Munich  work  of  1848. 
The  Choir  contains  14th-century  statues  of  the  12 
Apostles,  15th-century  carved  stalls,  ancient  stained 
windows,  modern  fresces  of  angel-choirs,  modern  tap- 
estries,  and  7  wonderful  chapels,  with  venerable  tombs 
of  the  archbishops,  the  Bavarian  Electors,  etc.  The 
reliquary  in  the  Chapel  of  the  Three  Kings  contains 
the  bones  of  the  Magi,  carried  to  Constantinople  bjf 


220  COLOGNL. 

the  Empress  Helena,  thence  to  Milan,  and  preai?nted 
by  Barbarossa  to  Cologne's  archbishop  in  1164.  Tl?. 
heart  of  Marie  de  Medicis  is  buried  liere.  The  Librari^ 
contains  Hildebald's  precious  MSS. ;  and  many  deeply 
inleresiiiig  relics  are  in  the  Treasury  and  in  the  Archie 
epii^co'pal  Museum,  S.  of  the  ch.  See  inner  and  outer 
galleries  of  the  choir.  The  ch.  is  open  all  day,  but 
walking  about  is  not  allowed  during  service. 

Over  the  rly. -bridge  are  equestrian  statues  of  Fred- 
erick William'  IV.  and  VV illiain  1.  W.  of  the  Cathedral 
is  the  great  Gothic  Museum  (open  9-4,  50  ])f.)  with 
many  hundred  paintnigs,  and  very  interesting  Koman 
and  mediaeval  relics.  In  the  adjaceni  Mii^orites'  Ch., 
Duns  Scotus  is  buried.  Beautiful  Gothic  cloisters. 
Sf.  Gereons  Ch.  (fee,  Imk.),  contains  the  bones  ef  the 
Theban  Legion,  martyred  at  Cologne,  under  Diocletic^n. 
Skulls  and  bones  of  the  martyrs  to  be  seen  in  the  choir. 
Curious  crypt.  In  ^5'/.  Ursula  is  the  tomb  of  tha^ 
unhappy  prineeas,  who,  with  her  11,000  virgin  com- 
panions, was  massacred  at  Cologne  on  her  return  from 
Rome.  The  ch.  (5th  century;  resTored)  has  a  Gothic 
portal.  You  are  shown  the  bones  of  the  mart^yrs  in  all 
parts  of  the  ch.  In  the  Treasury  (fee,  \\  mk  )  is  St. 
Ursula's  Reliquary.  Great  St.  Martin  has  a  majestic 
tower,  and  an  exquisite  baptismal  font,  given  by  Pope 
Leo  II.  Sta.  MMria-Im-Capif(jl,  consecrated  in  1049 
by  Pope  Leo  IX.,  is  an  imposing  Kon^anesque  ch.  St. 
Peter  lias  an  altar-piece  by  Rubens,  o/.  Cecilia  dates 
from  1200.  li^he.  J  pasties'  Ch.  (1200)  has  a  picturesque 
choir.     St.  Cumbert  (1248)  lias  rich  frescos  and  glass. 

See  the  Gurzenieh;  the  Roman  Tower  ;  the  house  in 
which  Marie  de  Medicis  died  in  exile  and  poverty;  the 
Mon.ument  to  Frederick  William  III.,  surrounded  by 
statues  of  statesmen  and  generals  who  relieved  the 
Rhine  from  French  domination ;  and  the  bronze  statue 


AIX-LA-CHAPELLE.  221 

of  Bismarck.  The  RafJihans  (13tli  century)  has  the 
Lion's  Court,  and  tlie  quaint  iiall  in  which  tiie  first  Diet 
of  the  Hanseatic  League  was  held.  See  Botanic  and 
Zoological  Gardens,  and  the  manj'  "  original  and  only  '* 
shops  where  the  Farina  Eau  de  Cologne  is  sold. 

l|hr.  from  Cologne  (fares,  6  mks.,  4|  mks.,  3mks.), 
on  the  rout&s  to  Belgium  and  Paris,  is  Aix-la-Cha- 
pelle   {Hotel  Grand  Monarqve  ;  Nuellens ;    De   VEm- 
perenr ;   Belleoue ;   Dragon  d'Or),   the  Aachen  of  the 
Germans  and  the  Aquisgrannm  of  the  Bomans.     This 
was  the  favorite  residence  of  Charlemagne,  and  here  he 
died  in  814.     Aix  was  at  one  time  the  capital  of  all  the 
country  N.  of  tlie  Alps.     37  German  emperors  were 
crowned  here.     For  centuries  the  Imperial  Diets  were 
lield  here.     The  modern  town  is  handsome,  with  the 
1  characteristics  of  a  watering-place.     The  warm  Snlphur 
I  Springs  were  renowned  in  the  Roman  era,  and  wonder- 
j  fid  cures  are  still  effected  by  them.     The  most  impor- 
j  tant  is  the  Kaiserquelle.     At  the  Elisenhrunnen  crowds 
I  assemble  daily  in  summer  to  drink  the  waters.     The 
y  Kt'.rhaus  has  a  superb  concert-hall  (fee,  50  pf.).       In 
I  the  Market-place  is  a  fountain,  with  statue  of  Charle- 
magne.    Tlie  great  Cathedral  is  in  two  sections  :  the 
quaint-roofed  Byzantine  octagon   (in  the  style  of  San 
Vitale,  at  Ravenna),  built  by  Charlemagne,  796-804, 
and  consecrated  iDf  Pope  Leo  III. ;  and  the  lofty  choir, 
in  the  best  Gothic  style   (1353-1413).     The  octagon 
contains  many  fine  columns,  brought  from  Rome  and 
I  Ravenna;  bronze  doors,  cast  in  804;  and  the  pulpit, 
rich  in  gold  and  gems,  presented  by  Henry  IT.     See 
the  stained  windows,  designed  by  Cornelius;   and  the 
1 14th-century  statues.     The  tomb  of  Charlemagne  was 
I  opened  by  Otho  TIT.  hi  1000;  and  by  Barbarossa  in 
jllOS    when  tlie  body  was  removed    from  the  marble 
Hhrone  on  which,  it  was  seated,  and  placed  in  a  Parian 


222  AIX-LA-CHAPELLE  —  BONN. 

sarcophagus.  The  throne  (afterwards  used  in  tin 
coronation  ceremonies)  and  the  sarcophagus  are  noif 
in  the  gallery.  The  bones  of  Charlemagne  are  en- 
shrined in  the  Treasury,  where  are  also  the  girdles  of 
Christ  and  Mary,  a  piece  of  the  True  Cross,  etc.  (Open 
daily,  9-1,  3-6  ;  3  mks.  for  1-3  persons.)  Notice  the 
old  Flemish  paintings  inside  of  the  cabinet-s.  Some  of 
the  holy  treasures,  such  as  the  swaddling-clothes  of  the 
infant  Saviour,  are  shown  but  once  every  7  years. 

The  Rathhaus  was  built  out  of  tlie  (h'hru  of  the  pal- 
ace of  the  Carlovingian  emperors  (1376).  The  Ball  of 
the  Emperors  (75  pf.)  has  noble  frescos.  The  Warriors^ 
Monume7it  commemorates  the  soldiers  slain  in  1&66  and 
1870-71.    Suermofidf  Museum  has  some  good  pictures. 

Up  the  Rhine  by  Steamer^ 

The  journey  can  be  made  in  1  day  from  Cologne  to 
Mayence.  It  is  better  to  take  2  days,  stopping  at 
Coblence.  There  is  a  rly.  on  either  bank,  but  the  steam- 
boat is  preferable.  If,  however,  you  wish  to  go  frojn 
Cologne  to  Frankfort  by  rail,  you  can  do  so  in  4  hrs. 
(fares,  12  mks.,  9  mks.,  6  mks.).  By  steamboat  (large 
and  tine  boats)  the  fares  from  Cologne  to  Coblence  are 

3  mks.  60  pf.,  2  mks.  40  pf;  by  the  express  boat  the 
fare  is  3  mks.  70  pf.  From  Coblence  to  Mayence,  3  mks. 
70  pf,  2|  mks.  ;  by  express  boat,  4i  mks.  Through 
tickets  allow  stopping  otf,  but  be  careful  to  resume  the 
journey  by  the  boats  of  the  same  company.  You  can 
take  rail  from  Cologne  to  Bonn  (21  M. ;  fares,  2|-  mks. , 
If  mks.,  1  mk.  80  pf.);  from  Cologne  to  Coblence 
(7  mks.  70  pf.,  5  mks.  60  pf.,  3  mks.  90  pf.) ;  from 
Coblence  to  Frankfort  (10  mks.  40  pf.,  6  mks.  90  pf., 

4  mks.  40  pf . ) 

Bonn  (Goldener  Stern,  capital  house;  Du  JSford; 
Kley;  Royal;  Rheineck)  has  a  beautiful  location. 


UP  THE   EHINE.  223 

eiust  beyond,  the  banks  become  bold  and  pre- 
cipitous, and  the  beauties  of  the  famous  stream 
begin.  The  University  occupies  the  okl  castle, 
built  in  1717-30  as  an  electoral  palace,  and  1,800  ft. 
long.  It  has  a  library  of  250,000  vols.;  museums 
of  Roman  and  Teutonic  antiquities  and  of  Arts 
(75  pf .  each ;  catalogues  for  sale).  See  bronze 
statue  of  Beethoven  in  the  Miinsterplatz.  The  Ca- 
thedral, founded  by  the  mother  of  Constantiue,  is  a 
crucitbriii  basihca,  with  two  clioirs  and  a  high  octagonal 
tower.  Bi'onze  statue  of  the  Em]n-ess  Helena  inside. 
Beethoven's  birthplace  is  in  the  Boungasse.  The  Po/j. 
yelsdorfer  Schloas,  reached  by  a  quadruple  avenue  oi 
horse-chestnuts  ^  M.  long,  contains  a  very  large  natural- 
history  collection  (fee,  75  pf.).  Chemical  Laboratory 
near  by.  The  Aiiatorde,  a  noble  edifice,  liuished  in 
1872,  is  not  far  off.  Be^'ond  Poppelsdorf  is  \\\q  Kreuz. 
berg,  400  I't.  high,  on  which  is  a  ch.  containing  the 
B-olij  Siulrcaae,  built  in  imitation  of  that  at  Home,  and 
to  be  mouuted  on  the  knees  only.  Bonn  was  the  Cas~ 
tra  Boniieima  of  Tacitus,  a  great  Roman  fortress.  It 
has  suffered  terrible  sieges.  The  Coblemerdraase  is  very 
handsome.  The  Procburial  Miuseum,  and  the  Home  of 
Arndtave  interesting.  On  the  A/te  ZoU  is  the  Moiuimerit- 
toArndt.  In  tlie  cemetery  are  buried  Niebuhr  tiie  his- 
torian,   Schiegel,  Robert  Sclmmami,  Arudt,  and  ^oji 

Buuiicn. 

Konigswinter  (/Jo/tiZ   de   rEnropt;    Jlaltem ; 

Rieffel;  Munopol),  on  the  E.  bank  of  the  Rhine,  is 
the  poini  whence  to  visit  the  Siebengebirge.  The 
Drachenfels  (916ft  high)  may  be  ascended  don- 
key bairk,  ui  carriages,  or  by  cog-wheel  rail- 
way. Eaif-way  up  is  the  far-viewing  tower  on 
the  Hirschherg.  To  the  W.  is  the  Monument 
in  memory  of  the  events  of  1813-15.  The  Castle 
stands    near  the   Terrace  (wliere   'here  is   a  good 


224        ROLANDSECK.  —  NONNENWERTH. 

hotel).  It  was  built  about  1100  by  the  first  arclibishop 
of  Culogue,  and  takes  its  uame  from  a  dragon  slaiu 
tliere  by  Siegfried,  the  Niebeluugeu  hero.  The  red 
wine  made  from  its  vineyards  is  called  Drugotis  Blood, 
The  castle  was  destroyed  by  Ferdinand  of  Bavaria,  after 
a  long  siege,  llnins  still  magnificent.  Superb  view 
of  the  Seven  Mts.,  the  basalt  cliffs  behind  Remagen, 
Ober winter,  the  ruins  of  Holandseck,  Bonn,  and  Co- 
logne. See  the  cavern  where  the  fabled  dragon  had 
Lis  abode.  An  excursion  may  be  made  to  the  Oelherg, 
the  view  from  which  is  the  most  extensive  in  the  Rhiue- 
laud.  Thence  it  is  1^  lir.  to  Heisterbach,  an  old  Cis- 
tercian abbey,  in  a  beautiful  valley.  Little  is  left  of 
the  magnificent  ch.,  built  about  1200.  From  the  Oei- 
berg,  the  Lowenhurg  (1,504  ft.),  a  castle  where  the 
Elector  of  Cologne  had  interviews  with  Melancthou 
before  becoming  a  Protestant,  may  be  reached.  Fins 
view.  Return  from  Heisterbach  to  Konigswinter  in  f  lir. 
by  the  Peters  berg,  whence  good  view.  Konigswinter  is 
aear  most  charming  scenery. 

The  boat  touches  at  Rolandseck  {B:oiel  Roland' 
seek;  Victoria;  Decker;  BeUevue)^  ^  hr  above  Ko- 
nigswinter. From  restaurant  at  the  railway  sta- 
tion, fine  view  of  the  Seven  Mts.,  and  the  Rhine 
«o  Remagen.  Rolandseck  is  a  very  popular  sum- 
mer-resort. Ruined  Castle  stands  on  a  basalt 
rock,  347  ft.  above  the  Rhine.  It  was  founded 
fcy  Roland,  the  Paladin  of  Charlemagne,  who  died  at 
itoncesvalles.  The  island  of  Nonnenwerth,  where 
stands  the  convent  in  which  the  beautiful  llildegardt; 
Is  said  to  have  taken  the  veil  when  she  heard  that 
Roland  had  perished  in  Spain,  may  be  reached  by  a 
6U)ull  boat  (return-fare,  ]  mk.).  This  convent  is  men* 
tioned  in  a  document  of  the  12th  centuiy.  It  was  sup- 
pressed in  1802,  reconsecrated  in  1845,  and  closed 
ftgaiii  \u  1876.     See  Bulwer's  Filgrims  of  the  Rhine^ 


UP  THE  KHINE.  225 

and  Rchiller's  ballad  of  Ritter  Toggenburg.  At  Rliein- 
hreitbacJb  (W.  bank)  is  a  large  town,  with  towers,  at 
the  entrance  of  a  valley  filled  with  copper-mines.  At 
TJiikel  (W.  bank)  the  cliffs  stand  out  into  the  bed  of 
the  stream,  producing:  a  rapid.     Just  above  is 

Remagen  {Hotel  Fur stenberg ;  Koniiig  von  Preus- 
sen;  Rliem ;  Anker),  noticeable  for  its  church  on 
the  Apollinarisberg  (a  hill  to  the  N  ).  a  pretty 
Gothic  edifice  with  four  towers,  entirely  modern,  on 
on  the  site  of  an  old  pilcfrimage-shrine  of  the  Middle 
Ages.  It  was  built  by  Zwirner,  architect  of  Cologne 
Cathedral,  and  contains  10  grand  frescos,  masterpieces 
of  modernGermanart(open7  A.M.  to8  p  m.;  Sun.  after 
10;  fee,  30pf.).  The  legend  states  that  when  the  Arch- 
bishop of  Cologne  was  descending  the  Rhine  (in  1164) 
with  the  bones  of  the  Magi  and  the  hend  of  St.  Apol- 
linaris.  Bishop  of  Ravenna,  his  boat  was  stopped  here, 
by  some  mysterious  power,  until  tlie  latter  was  placed 
in  the  chapel  on  this  site.  Remagen  was  a  Roman 
town  {Rigomagns) ,  but  lost  its  importance  in  the 
Thirty  Years'  War.  Beautiful  excursions  thence, 
between  bc^ld  basaltic  hills,  up  the  Valley  ofthe  Ahr^ 
where  4.000  000  bots.  of  red  wine  are  produced  yearly.. 
It  is  7  M.  (carriage,  4  mks.)  to  the  Baths  of  NeuenahVy 
a  charming  watering-place,  with  warm  alkali  spriijgs^ 
used  for  lung  and  liver  diseases.  Ahrweiler,  a  quaint, 
little  walled  town,  has  fine  view  from  Calvarienberg, 
Ruined  castles  and  pretty  villages  abound. 

Opposite  Remagen,  over  ^>7^e/  (E.  hank)  is  a  basaltic, 
cliff  642  ft.  high.  "Linz  {Weinstock)  is  an  ancient 
town  on  the  W.  bank,  with  walls  and  pavements  of 
basalt,  and  a  13th  century  Romanesque  ch.,  contain- 
ing a  triptych  of  the  ancient  Cologne  school  of  art. 
The  adjacent  hills  have  interesting  basalt-quarries,, 
and  crosses  commemorating  the  battles  of  Leipsic  and 
Waterloo  rise  on  two  of  them.    Arenfels  castle,  above 


226  HAMMERSTEIN.  —  ANDERNACH. 

Liiiz,  lately  restored,  lias  an  ancient  round  tower,  and, 
in  the  Knights'  Hall,  a  collection  of  armor.  Rheiiieck 
(W.  bank),  the  boundary  betvi^een  tlie  upper  mid  lower 
Klienisk  districts,  is  a  lofty  Romanesque  castle  on  the 
site  (and  with  a  tower)  of  the  fortress  of  the  Rheinach 
family,  founded  in  the  12tli  century.  It  may  be  visited 
from  Brohl  (|  hr.),  and  has  some  fine  paintings  (fee, 
50-75  pf.)  and  a  superb  view^  It  w^as  sacked  by  the 
Freneh  in  1689  and  by  ti'oo]3S  of  Cologne  in  1692. 
Farther  up,  near  Brohl,  is  Hammerstein,  a  lOth-ceu- 
tury  castle,  w^here  Henry  IV.  took  refuge  from  his  sons, 
and  which  w^as  held,  during  the  Thirty  Years'  War,  by 
Swedes,  Spaniards,  Germans,  and  Lorrainers,  In  1660 
the  Archbishop  of  Cologne  destroyed  this  too  pow^erful 
neighbor,     Roman  ruins  4  M.  E. 

Andernacli  {IrLotel  Hackenbrucli ;  Glocke),  on  the 
"W .  bank,  lias  narrow  streets,  ancient  walls,  a  niany- 
tow^ered  Romanesque  ch.  (1206),  and  a  lofty  watch- 
tower,  built  in  1414-68,  and  breached  by  French  guns 
in  1688.  It  w^as  one  of  tlie  50  forts  of  D^'usus ;  re- 
captured, from  the  Alemanni  by  Julian  in  339 ;  a 
royal  Franconian  residence  in  the  6th  century  ;  an  im- 
perial town  later  ;  stormed  })y  Cologne  troops  in  1496 ; 
and  burned  by  the  Fi-ench  in  1688.  The  deep  moat 
and  massive  towers  of  the  castle  remain  (see  Long- 
fellow's 7:(%y(??7o;i/).  Tramway  to  the  Benedictine  Abbey 
of  Laach,  founded  in  1093,  with  magnificent  Roman- 
esque ch.  and  cloisters,  on  the  vast  crater-lake  of  the 
Laacker  See  (6  M.  around). 

The  Rhine  now  flow^s  throngii  a  defile,  between 
rnu'ged  heights.  Neuwied  {Goldenev  Anker; 
Wilder  Mann;  Moramaii),  on  the  E.,  has  the 
palace  and  park  of  the  Prince  of  Wied,  and  a  com- 
munity of  austere  Moravian  Brethren,  v.'itli  admira- 
ble schools  and  workshops.  Morirepo.^  is  a  chateau 
of  the  Prince,  near  by  ;  and  AUwied,  31  M.  out  (car- 


UP  THE  EHINE.  227 

riage,  4  inks.),  is  a  picturesque  ruined  castle.  Weissen- 
thurm  is  opposite  Neuwied,  witli  a  Avliite  watch-tower 
marking  the  boundaries  of  Treves  and  Cologne.  Above 
is  an  obelisk  to  General  Hoche,  erected  by  a  French 
army  crossing  the  Rhine  in  1797-  Near  Engers  (E. 
bank)  are  fragments  of  Roman  masonry,  supposed  to 
be  parts  of  Julius  Ca3sar's  bridge  across  the  lihine  (see 
Commentaries).  Miihlhofen  (E.  bank)  is  1^  M.  from 
the  ruins  of  Sayn  castle,  and  the  great  modern  cha- 
teau of  Sayn,  rich  in  art.  Kesselheim  (W.  bank)  is 
near  Schonbornslust,  an  old  palace  of  the  electors  of 
Treves  and  of  the  exiled  Bourbons.  On  Niederwerth 
island,  where  Edward  III.  of  England  lived  in  1337,  is 
an  old  convent  ch.  At  Neuendorf  the  small  timber- 
rafts  from  the  Upper  Rhine  and  Moselle  are  enlarged 
and  strengthened,  before  drifting  Holland  ward.  The 
high  fortress  of  Ehrenbreitstein  now  comes  into  view, 
and  the  palace  of  the  Prussian  King. 

Coblenz  {Gia7it ;  Bellevue ;  Monopol ;  Anker; 
Traube),  the  capital  of  Rhenish  Prussia  (40,000 
inhab.),  is  at  the  confluence  of  the  Rhine  and  Moselle, 
wheMce  the  Romans  called  it  Confluentia.  It  is  a  pow- 
erful fortress,  w/tli  heights  crossed  with  enormous  forti- 
fications, and  a  garrison  of  5,U00  soldiers.  The  Palace 
was  built  by  tne  lasf  Elector  of  Treves,  and  contains 
inte;-esting  JElectoral  Hall  and  Festival  Hall,  with  por- 
traits, tapestries,  etc.  (fee,  25  pf.).  The  Mahizer-Thor 
and  others  of  the  city  gates  are  worthy  of  notice.  St. 
Castor  is  a  handsome  4-towered  basilica,  founded  iu 
836  and  rebuilt  in  1208.  Before  it  v^  the  historic 
Castor  Fountain.  The  Moselle  Bridge  (14  arches)  dates 
from  1344.  Monument  of  Emperor  William  I.  at 
junction  of  Rhine  and  Moselle.  Archiepiscopal  Palace 
(now  a  factory)  dates  from  1276;  the  Liebfrauenkirclie^ 
from  th«  13th  century;  the  Merchants'  Hall,  from 


228  EHRENBREITSTEIN.  —  EMS. 

1480.  The  Rhine  Tromenade  is  a  beautiful  waterside 
park.  The  Kuhkopf,  1,190  ft.  high,  commands  a  grand 
view  over  the  Rliine  and  Moselle  valleys.  Fort  Franz, 
on  the  Petersberg,  and  Forts  Alexander  and  Constantine 
(superb  view  hence)  guard  the  city.  Across  the  Rhine 
is  Ehrenbreitstein,  "  Honor's  Broad  Stone  "  (open 
daily;  small  fees  for  ticket  and  to  guide),  "Tiie  Gibraltar 
of  the  Rhine/'  a  vast  fortress  on  a  precipitous  rock, 
387  ft.  above  the  river,  and  commanding  a  wonderful 
view.  It  was  granted  by  King  Dagobert  to  the  arch- 
bishops of  Treves  in  636,  and  has  been  beleaguered 
many  times,  but  yielded  only  twice.  The  French  de- 
stroyed the  works  in  1801 ;  but  they  were  rebuilt, 
1816-26,  at  a  cost  of  $6,000,000. 

Excursions  from    Coblence.  —  It  is    1  hr.'s  rly.  ride 
(1^  mk.,  1  mk.,  70  pf.),  or  7  M.  walk  from  Ehrenbreitstein 
to  Ems  {Hotel  d'Angleterre;  De  Russie;  Des  Quatre 
Saisons ;   Darmstad^,   a  little  town  on  the  Lahn, 
amid  wooded  heights,anniially  visited  byl2, 000  health- 
seekers  (season,  July  15-Sept.  1).    The  waters  (saline 
and  alkaline)  are  beneficial  in  pulmonary  and  female 
complaints,  and  have  been  used  since  1354.     The  Kur- 
haus  and  Kursaal  are  the  centre  of  the  exotic  life,  and 
stand  amid  pleasant  gardens. 

Up  the  Moselle,  by  steamer  1171  M.  (6  mks,, 
4  mks.),  4  times  weekly,  in  1^  days,  passing'  the  night 
at  Trarhach,  and  reaching  Treves  at  3  P.iv.  Voyage 
back  to  Coblence,  12  hrf .  (8  mks.,  5  mks.  30  pf.).  Rly. 
to  Treves  in  2|  hrs.  (69^  M. ;  fares,  9  mks.,  6  mks. 
80  pf.,  4^  mks.).  The  valley  of  the  Moselle  is  very 
beautiful,  and  interesting  historically.  Over  Cobern  is 
a  wonderful  pilgrimage-chapel;  over  Brodenhach  the 
splendid  Ehrenburg  ruin ;  over  Cochem,  twG  fine 
castles  and  a  monastery;  over  Trarbarh,  the  ancient 
Grafinbnrg  ;  and  near  JS'ettmagen,  Roman  ruins. 


UP  THE   MOSELLE.  239 

Treves  ( Hotel  de   Treves;  Porta  Nigra;  Luxem- 
bourg;  /Stadt    Venedig;   Post),   on   the   Moselle,  was 
the    capital    of    the    Treviri  ;    then    the    Auousta 
Trpvirorum  of  the  Romans ;  then  capital  of  Gaul, 
ar-d  Rome's  rival  in  art  and  commerce.     This  oldest 
city  of  Germany  has  only  40,000  inhab. ;  although 
its  well-preserved  amphitheatre,  in  which  Constantine 
delivered   thousands    of   Franks   to    be    torn  by    wild 
beasts    (a.d.  806),   accomniodaies   30,000    spectators. 
The  vast  ruins  of   the  Roman  Baths  were  connected 
Tvith  the  Palace  of  the  Emperors.     The  Porta  Nigra  is  a 
huge  Roman  gateway  of  blackened  sandstone,  115  ft, 
long  and  93  ft.  high.     The  Catliedral  dates  from  550,  — 
a  vast  structure,  under  which  repose  the  archbishops 
and  electors  of  Treves.     Here  are  preserved  Christ's 
seamless  robe,  a  nail  from  the  Cross,  a  fragment  of  the 
Crown  of  Thorns.      Cloisters  run  thence  to  the  Lieh-^ 
frauenkirche,    a   beautiful    circular   ch.    (1243).     Tlie 
Basilica,  built  before  Constantine,  successively  a  Ro- 
man court-house,  exchange,  imperial  governors'  palace, 
bishops'  palace,  and  barrack,  is  now  a  ch.     The  Museum 
and  Town  Library  contain  rare  MSS.,  portraits,  and 
Roman  antiquities.      Rly.  from  Treves  to  Thionville 
and  Luxembourg  (|  hr.). 

Ascending  the  Rhine  from  Coblenz,  Capellen  {Hotel 
Slolzenfels ;  Hotel  Bellevue)  is  reached  (W.  bank), 
over  which  rises  the  royal  castle  of  Stohenfels  (en^ 
trance,  25pf. ;  donkeys  to  ride  up  and  back,  Im.  20pf.), 
420  ft.  above  the  Rhine,  with  a  magnificent  view.  It 
was  built  in  1250  by  the  Archbishop  of  Treves,  and 
ii^ihabited  by  his  successors.  The  French  destroyed  it 
in  1688;  and  since  1823  it  has  been  restored  by  the 
Prussian  King.  Rich  historica  I  frescos  in  Chapel  and 
Knights'  Hall;  many  rare  old  pictures  and  curiosities. 

Oberlahnstein  (  Welter;  L!inhor7i),  opp.  Capellen 
(fei-ry  every  f  hr.,  10-20  pf.),  near  the  lately  restored 


S30  BOPPAKD. — ST.  GOAR. 

castle  oi  Lahneck.  Above  Capellen  is  Konigsstuhl, 
■where  the  4  Rhenish  Electors  used  to  meet,  in  open 
air,  to  elect  emperors  and  conclude  treaties.  The  Em- 
peror Charles  IV.  built  a  castle  here  in  1376.  Farther 
up  is  Rhense  (W.),  with  walls  and  a  moat  constructed 
fey  the  Archbishop  of  Cologne  hi  1370.  Braubnch  is 
tinder  Marksburg,  an  imposing  castle  492  ft.  above 
the  Rhine,  founded  before  1400,  and  still  uninjurer" 
and  inhabited.     Old  Swedish  and  French  cannon  here. 

'BoTp'pdirdiZum  Spiegel;  llirsch;  Glosmann; Rliein; 
Lange),  on  the  W".  bank,  was  a  Celtic  town  :  forti- 
fied by  the  Romans,  and  named  Bodobriga : 
headquarters  of  the  13th  Legion ;  seat  of  a  lodge 
of  Knights  Templar ;  and  an  Imperial  town.  The 
inner  wall  is  Roman,  the  outer  wall  mediaeval  ; 
and  tlie  two  churches  date  from  1200  and  1500. 
The  high-placed  Marienberg,  formerly  a  Benedictine 
nunnery,  is  now  a  water-cure.  The  situation  is  lovely, 
in  a  broad  bend  of  the  Rhine,  above  which  the  mis. 
recede,  giving  place  to  rich  meadows  and  green  fields. 
Opposite  pretty  Salzig,  famous  for  cherries,  are  twin' 
rocky  peaks,  whereon  rise  the  ruined  castles  of  Ste?'n- 
berg  and  Liebenstein,  to  which  attaches  the  legend  of 
Conrad,  Heinrich,  and  Hildegarde.  Over  Welmich  (E.) 
rises  the  castle  of  Thurnherg,  finished  in  1363,  and  then 
derisively  called  The  Mouse. 

The  handsome  old  town  of  St.  Goar  (founded  ir 
570)  is  overlooked  by  the  grandest  ruin  on  the  river, 
the  famous  Rheinfels,  dating  from  1 245  ;  besieged  by 
26  Rhenish  towns  in  1255;  held  by  the  French, 
1758-63,  1794-97,  and  blown  up  by  them;  and  now 
royal  property.  St,  Goarshausen  (steam-£erry  to 
St.  Goar)  is  under  the  castle  called  The  Cat,  built  in 
1393,  and  blown  up  by  the  French  in  1804.  Many 
charming  excursions  from  either  of  these  towns.  The 
noble  and  well-preserved  ruin  of  Reichenberg  castle 


OBERWESEL  —  BACHAKACH.  231 

(1280)  is  3  M.  E.  The  picturesque  Swiss  Valley  is 
oack  of  St.  Goarsliauseu.  Above  is  the  Lurlei  rock, 
a  precipice  433  ft.  high,  rising  over  whirlpools  iu  the 
deepest  and  narrowest  ])art  of  the  Rhine,  and  the  fabled 
seat  of  a  siren  who  lured  sailors  to  death.  Farther  up 
are  the  Seoen  Virgins'  rocks,  with  their  ^-rini  legend. 

OberTvasel  {Continental;  Goldener  Pfropfen- 
zieher),  on  the  W. ;  a  picturesque  Roman  town,  rich  in 
wine  and  scenery  ;  beloved  by  artists,  who  haunt  the 
gray  old  walls,  the  massive  medigeval  towers,  the  15th- 
century  Ch.  of  Our  Lady,  with  rare  old  carvings  and 
pictures,  and  the  Chapel  on  the  riverward  wall,  coni- 
niemorating  a  terrible  deed  in  1386.  Above  all, 
Schonburg,  the  lofty  castle,  the  birthplace  of  Marshal 
Schomberg,  who  lies  in  Westminster  Abbey.  This 
nuuiy-towered  cradle  of  a  race  of  warriors  was  de- 
molished by  Louis  XIA^'s  troops  in  1CS9  Caub, 
abounding  in  Avine  (see  statue  of  Bliicher),  is  under 
the  castle  of  Gutenfels,  btult  in  1277,  and  destroyed 
in  1807.  Above  is  the  Pfalz,  a  hexagonal  fortress  in 
the  middle  of  the  Rhine,  bidlt  by  Lewis  of  Bavaria 
about  the  year  1200.  Thence  he  used  to  swoop  down 
upon  passing  vessels,  and  exact  tribute.  Hereabouts, 
Eliicher's   and    York's  Prussian  and   Russian   armies 

crossed  the  Rhine,  Jan.  1,  1S14. 

Bacharach(i7(5^(?Z  Rerbrec7if,BIuc'herfhal.Ba.stian) 

on  the  W.  bank;  a  favorite  resort;  its  wines,  celebrated 
in  Longfellow's  Golden  Legend,  still  entitle  it  to  the 
name  Ara  Bacchi  (altar  of  Bacchus),  which  the  Middle- 
Ages  men  gave  it.  The  great  fire  of  1372  destroyed 
many  rare  old  houses ;  but  the  gray  walls,  descending 
from  Stahleck,  still  envelop  tlie  town  :  and  the  beau- 
tiful Gothic  ruin  of  St.  Werner  .s  Cfi.,  and  the  st*»tely 
Romanesque  St.  Peter^s  Church  (now  restored),  still 
stand  fast.      Overhead  i>>  Stah.eck  enstle,  the  home 


'232  LORCH.  —  BINGEN. 

of  the  Counts  Palatine  until  1265,  besieged  8  ^iines 
by  tlie  Freucli  betAveeu  1620  and  1640.  and  blovn  uti 
iu  1689.  Fiirsteuberg,  another  noble  ruin,  is  near 
by.  The  robber-knights  fired  thence  on  the  ship  Id 
which  Adolph  of  Nassau  was  descending  to  Aix-la- 
Chapelle,  to  be  crowned  Emperor  (1292).  Excursion 
up  the  narrow  Stee^  valley  ;  also  to  Kreuznacli. 

Lorcb  {TMel  WeiMer;' Krone), on E.  bk. , the Koman 
Laureacum,  has  a  Elamboyant  12tli-century  ch.,  with 
quaint  monuments  and  fine  bell*.  Near  by,  over  the 
beoU's  Ladder  cliff,  is  Nollingen  castle.  Niederheim" 
bach  (W.  bank)  is  under  Hohneck,  or  Heimburg  castle. 
Above  is  Sooneck  castle,  built  in  1015  by  tlie  Arch- 
bishop of  Mayence  ;  and  Falkenburg,  or  the  Reichen- 
stein,  destroyed  as  a  robbers'  nest  by  the  Khenish 
towns  (1251),  and  again  by  Rudolph  of  liapsburg,  mIio 
hung  its  knights  from  the  windows.  Rheinstein, 
farther  up  (A¥.  bank),  is  a  picturesque  castle,  built  be- 
fore 1279,  and  restored  1825-29  by  Prince  Frederick 
of  Prussia,  who  is  buried  here  (e^^trance,  \  mk.). 

Assmannshausau  {Hotel  Krone  ;  Rhein  ;  ReU' 
tershafi;  JViederw<Ud;  Lamm:  Anker)  on  the  E., 
exports  aromatic  red  wine  all  over  the  w^orld.  Above 
is  the  rapid  of  the  Binger  Loch,  where  the  raftsmen 
have  hard  work.  Ehrenfels  (E.  bank)  is  a  high  toAver, 
built  in  1210  by  the  Governor  of  the  lllieingau,  dam- 
aged by  the  Swedes  in  1635,  and  demolished  by  the 
French  in  1689.  Beyond  are  the  terraced  slopes  which 
produce  the  Riidesheim  wine.  Opposite  Ehrenfels,  on 
quartz  ledges  hi  the  stream,  is  the  Mouse  Tower, 
where,  as  legend  tells.  Archbishop  Hatto  of  Mayeuce 
.  was  devoured  alive  by  mice  because  he  caused  a  crowd 
of  famine-stricken  peasants  to  be  burned  to  death,  com- 
paring them  to  corn-destroying  mice. 

Bingen(Z?o)^6^  Victoria ;Bellevv e/Weisaes  Ro.<is/^A?b' 
gleterre),  under  the  heights  at  mouth  of  Nahe,  amid 


METZ.  233 

cliarmiu*^  scenery,  where  the  Rliiue  bends  around  the 
Niede/'wcikl,  on  which  is  the  new  National  Monument, 
with  \m^Q  bronze  statues,  etc.  On  tlie  Drususberg  are 
the  ruins  of /iTZo^p,  once  a  Roman  casth),  destroyed  by 
the  French  in  lOrfi).  The  Rochusberg  (341  ft.  high) 
o^erloolcs  the  beautiful  Rheingau ;  the  Nieder-wald 
gives  another  ravisiiing  view.  Illy,  from  Riidesheim 
to  Wiesbaden,  Erankfort,  Ems,  and  Nassau  ;  and  from 
Ringerbriick  to  Mayence,  Coblence,  Cologne,  and 
Kreuznach  [Oranianhof;  Adler),  a  prettily  situ- 
ated watering-place,  where  6-8,000  persons  go  yearly 
I'or  the  salt-baths,  efficient  in  cutaneous  troubles, 

From  Bingerbriick  one  can  go,  by  the  Frankfort-Paris 
route,  to  Metz  in  8-9  hrs.  (fares,  17  mks.  90  pf., 
13  mks.,  8  mks.  60  pf.),  passing  Kreuznach  ;  Oherstein, 
a  beautiful  village  on  the  Nahe,  devoted  to  polishing 
agates ;  NeunJcircken  ;  and  Saarbracken,  3  M.  N.  of  the 
battle-ground  of  Spicheren  (1870 ;  carriage  to  field, 
12  mks.  Metz  {Grand  Hotel;  Post:  Be  Metz;  De 
PaWs),  a  city  of  62,000  inhab.,  on  the  Moselle,  once  the 
capital  of  the  kingdom  of  Austrasia,  was  seized  by  France 
in  1552,  and  regained  by  Germany  in  1870,  after  a  pro- 
lo!iged  siege,  and  several  terrible  battles  near  Gravelotte 
and  Mars-la-Tour,  on  the  W.  (see  local  guides).  Since 
theii  the  victors  have  q:reatiy  extended  the  vast  fortress. 
Visit  interesting  E.  side  of  town.  The  Cathedral  is  a 
n:agnincent  13th  century  Gothic  ch.,  with  a  tower 
387ft.  high.  In  front  is  a  statue  of  Louis  XIV.'s 
Marshal  Fabert.  Statues  of  Marshal  Ney  and  Emp. 
William  I  on  Esplanade,  near  Palace  of  Justice. 

Riidesheim  {Rhei7istem;  Erliard;  Dar?n.'^tadt ; 
Jung),  op.  Bingen,  has  rich  wines,  far-viewing  heights, 
wild  legends,  and  a  Roman  fortress.  Farther  up 
^s  Geisenheim,  with  monasteries  and  vineyards.  On 
Hhe  heights  is  Johannisberg,  where,  on  the  site  of  a 


234  MAYENCB. 

Benedictine  convent  of  1106,  tlie  Abbot  of  Fulda  buill 
a  castle,  afterwards  granted  to  Prince  Metternicb,  and 
now  amid  the  best  vineyards  on  the  Rhine,  and  com- 
manding a  superb  view.  Beautiful  walks  from  Rii- 
desheim  hence,  or  to  Mtoille.  The  river  scenery  above 
Biugen  is  less  interesting,  and  many  travellers  go  hence 
to  Mayence  by  rail  (f  hr.;  by  steamer,  2^  lirs.).  Above 
Geisenheiiu,  well  in-shore  on  the  r.,  is  Inf/elheim,  the 
site  of  Charlemagne's  great  palace.  Eltville  (on  the  l.J 
has  fine  villas  and  venerable  ruins,  aud  is  4  M.  from 
the  fauious  warm  baths  of  Schlunyenbad.  From  Bie- 
brich,  rly.  to  Wiesbaden.  Above  is  Petersau,  wdiere 
Louis  the  Pious,  Charlemagne's  son,  died  in  840. 

Mayence  {Hotel  de  Holla nde  ;  D'Angleterre  ;  Rheit^ 
iseher  J  Ffalzer;  Taunus;  Germania),  78,000  inhab., 
and  a  strategic  position,  commanding  confluence  of 
E-hine  and  Main  (garrison,  8,000  men).  It  was  the 
Roman  Moguntiacum,  fortified  bv  Drusus  (b.c.  14),  and 
headquarters  of  the  14th  and  22d  Legions.  The  Cita- 
del, on  their  camp-grouud,  has  a  monument  erected  by 
his  soldiers  to  Drusus,  who  died  hei-e.  Pope  Zacharias 
(in  751)  made  St.  Boniface,  the  Enghsh  missionary. 
Archbishop  of  Mayence  (the  first  German  bishopric); 
and  after  1250  "  Golden  Mayence "  originated  and 
headed  the  league  of  100  Rhenish  towns.  In  146^ 
Archbishop  Adolph  killed  the  foremost  citizens,  and 
Mayence  became  a  mere  archiepiscopal  town.  The 
French  republicans  took  it  in  1792,  and  it  was  a 
French  town  for  17  years.  In  1814  it  became  Hessian. 
The  Cathedral,  begun  in  978,  and  6  times  burned  and 
restored,  is  a  vast  structure,  with  domes  and  round 
towers  (one  324  ft.  high)  and  splendid  brass  gates 
(made  in  1135).  The  interior  is  very  grand,  ricli^ 
frescoed  (by  Veit),  with  choirs  on  E.  (1175)  and  W. 
(1239),  and  56  columns  upholding  the  vaulting  (open 


MAYENCE.  235 

till  11.30,  and  3-6).  There  are  scores  of  fine  old  monu- 
ments, including  one  to  Fastrada,  Charlemagne's  wife. 
The  restored  Cloisters,  built  in  1412,  are  the  finest  in 
W.  Germany,  and  contain  Schwanthaler's  monument- 
to  the  ])ious  minstrel  Heinrich  von  Meissen  (died  1318), 
erected  by  the  women  of  Majence  in  1842.  Thor- 
waldsen's  statue  of  Gutenberg,  the  inventor  of  printing, 
stands  near  the  Cathedral ;  and  the  house  in  which  he 
was  born  is  not  far  off.  St.  Stephens  Ch.  (1257-1318) 
and  cloisters  are  on  high  ground,  and  the  tower  overlooks 
Mayeuce.  The  Electoral  Palace,  built  1627-78,  and 
used  by  the  Trench  for  storing  hay,  is  in  the  N.  E. 
quarter,  and  contains  a  rich  museum  (fee,  50  pf.  Tues, 
and  Sat.,  other  days  free)  of  Homan- Germanic  relics,  a 
library  of  100,000  vols.,  and  a  Picture-Gallery  of  9 
rooms,  with  many  fine  old  paintings  (Titian,  Murillo, 
Holbein,  etc.).  The  Grand-Ducal  Palace,  opposite, 
was  a  Lodge  of  the  Teutonic  Order,  and  has  an  arsenal 
attached.  There  are  charming  walks  along  the  river 
in  the  Esplanade,  and  in  the  NeAie  Anlage  Park 
(restaurant) .  An  iron  bridge  crosses  the  Rhine  from 
the  Esplanade  opposite  the  arsenal  to  Castel,  a  small 
but  strongly  fortified  suburb.  Here  stood  once  a 
Eoman  bridge. 

A  Run  through  North  Germany. 

Wit/i  Frankfort  and  Wiesbaden. 

The  traveller  should  now  determine  whether  to  hasten  on 
t©  Switzerland,  or  (which  is  much  better)  spend  afcAv  days  in 
Germany,  going  from  Mayence  to  Frankfort,  Weimar,  and 
Berlin  ;  and  thence  down  to  Dresden,  Prague,  and  Vienna  ; 
returning  to  the  Rhineland  by  Nuremberg,  Munich,  and 
Heidelberg.  Tourists  going  direct  to  Switzerland  may  pass 
S.  from  Mayence,  by  Worms  and  Strasburg,  to  Basle,  in  10- 
14  hrs.,  or  by  Darmstadt,  Heidelberg,  Carlsruhe,  Baden,  and 
the  Black  Forest. 


236  FRANKFORT-ON-THE-MAIN 

From  Mayence  it  is  f  hr.  by  rly.  (lares,  2  mks.  95  pf., 
1  mk.  95  ])(.,  1  mk.  30  pf.)  to  the  Prussian  city  ol  Frank" 
fort-on-the-Main  {Ft^arikfurfer  Hof ;    De  Ru.^sie,' 
Union;  Jacobi;  (TAngleterre;  Schwan;  PariserJloJ), 
which  has  252,000  mhab.,  and  stands  on  a  mountain- 
girdled  plain.    Charlemagne  held  a  council  here  in  794 
and  later  sovereigns  granted  higli  privileges.    From  1356 
to  1806  this  was  the  place  of  election  for  the  German 
emperors  (beginning  with  Barbarossa),  many  of  whom 
were  crowned  here.      It  was  a  free  city  from  1814 
to  1866,  when   Prussia   annexed  it.      Frankfort  is  a 
handsome  and  agreeable  place,  with  good  society  and 
vast  wealth.     The  ancient  Homer,  or  Town  Hall,  con- 
tains the  Emperors'  Hall,  and  the  room  in  which  the 
electors  met  to  choose  the  emperors.      In  front,  the 
coronation  festivals  were  given.     Up  to  1800  no  Jews 
were  allowed  on  this  square.     See  Cathedral  (1238). 
Historical  Iluseum  in  Archives  building  and  restored 
Leinv^andhaus  (50pf.,  Snn.  &  Wed.  free).    The  bridge 
over  Main  (leading  to  Sachseiihausen),  built  1842,  has 
a  statue  of  Charlemagne.     The  Saallwf  has  a  chapel  of 
the  Carlovingian  kings.     The  Exchange  is  a  very  hand- 
some modern  building.     The  13th-century  chs.  of  St. 
Leonhard  and  St.  Nicholas  are  interesting.     The  house 
in  which  Goethe  was  born,  and  wliere  he  wrote  Werther^ 
is  public   property.     His  statue   (with  bas-reliefs)  by 
Schwantlialer  is  near  the  Rossmorkt  square;  and  there 
is  another  in  the  Town  Library  (150,000  vols.).     Th& 
Stddel  Institute  has  a  school  of  fine  arts,  collections  of 
engravings,  drawings,  and  casts,  and  several  hundred 
paintings  of  merit  (open  daily,  11-2;  catalogue,  1  mk.). 
B&thmann' s  Museum  contains  Dannecker's  Ariadne^ 
etc.  (open  daily,  50-75  pf .),     The  Zeil  is  the  most  bril- 
liant streetin  Frankfort.    See  Palm  Garden,  sculpture 
in  ry.  station,  Opera-House,  Natural  History  Museum, 


HOMBURG.  —  WIESBADEN.  237 

and   Zoological  Garden.      The  Judengasse   quarter, 
where   the    persecuted    Jews   lived,    1462-1806,    and 
where  the  Rothschilds  originated,  is  being  modernized. 
Chains  and  gates  formerly  closed  the  streets  at  even- 
ing and  on  Sundays,  and  no  Jew  vi^as  allowed  outside. 
From  Frankfort  it  is  f  hr.  by  rly.  (fares,  1  mk.  60 
pf. ,  1  mk.  20  pf.)  to  Homburg  ( Villa  Furstenruhe) , 
Victoria;  Bellevue;  Du  Pare;  Adler;  De  Russie),   a 
celebrated  watering-place  on  the  Taunus  Mts.     Iron 
and  saline  springs  in  the  superb  gardens  of  the 
Kurhaus    (library,    reading-room,    and    fine    saloons). 
Gambling  was  abolished  here  in  1870      See  the  castle 
of  the  Landgraves.     If  M.  N.  on  the  mts.  is  a  massive 
Roman  fort,  built  by  Germanicus,  and  a  remnant  of  the 
wall,  150  M.  long,  which  protected  the  Rhincland. 

From  Frankfort  it  is  1  hr.  by  rly.  (fares,  3  inks.  40  pf., 
Si-mks.,  Imk.  -ISpf.)  to  Wiesbaden (iVassaw;  Palace; 
Kaiserhof;  Quatre  Sai  ons;  Metropole;  du  Pare),  in 
the  lovely  valley  of  the  Salzbach,  on  the  viiie  and  j^  i  o  v  d* 
clad  S.  W.  spurs  of  the  Taunus  Mts.  120,000  visitors 
annually  partake  of  the  warm  saline  waters,  beneficial 
for  rheumatism  and  gout.  Pliny  mentions  i\\e.^G  fontes 
calidi ;  and  the  camps  of  the  14th  and  23d  Legion^ 
were  near  by.  The  air  is  very  healthy,  and  the  town 
pretty.  Back  of  the  handsome  Kursaal  is  an  extensive 
]:»ark,  the  favorite  resort  of  visitors.  See  the  2  palaces, 
the  museum,  and  picture-gallery,  the  library,  the  Gov- 
ernment buildings,  and  the  5-towered  Gothic  ch.,  with 
its  colossal  statues  The  Heidenmauer,  K.  W  of  the 
town,  is  a  Roman  wall,  650  ft.  long.  Beautiful  walks 
to  Nerothal,  Platte^  and  other  environs. 

Frankfort  to  Hanover,  Havihirg,  and  Bremen. 

From  Frankfort  a  rly.  runs  N.  W.  across  Hesse  (5-8 
brs. ;  fares,  16  mks.,  i2mks.,  8  mks.),  by  high -walled 
Fnedberg ;  the  mineral  springs  of  Nauhehn ;  the  rly. 


238      CASSEL.  —  HANOVER.  —  BEUNSWICK. 

junction  of  Giessen- ;  and  historic  Marburg,  with  its 
splendid  clis.  and  castle ;  to  Cassel  {Nord ;  Royal), 
the  beautiful  old  Hessian  capital  (70,000  iiiliab.),  Mith 
its  electoral  palaces  and  vast  Museum  Friedericianum 
(200,000  vols-  ;  myriads  of  gems,  mosaics,  Aveapoiis, 
ivories,  etc.).  In  the  Bellevue  castle  is  a  gfillpry  ol. 
several  hundred  fine  old  paintings.  "Willielmsliohe, 
4  M.  distant,  is  a  sumptuous  palace,  in  a  park  laiiious 
for  its  fountains  and  cascades.  liere  Napoleon  Hi. 
was  imprisoned  in  1870-71. 

From  Cassel  it  is  4-5  hrs.  (13  mks.  40  pf.,  10  mks.  10 
pf.6  mks.  70  pf),  by  Gottingen,  famous  for  its  univer- 
sity, to  Hanover  ( Victoria;  Royal,  Bristol),  hand  so  i^  ! 
city  of  250,000  inhab.,  once  capital  of  Hanover,  and  since 
1866  a  Prussian  provincial  capital.  See  the  palaces  of 
the  Hanoverian  kings;  the  Royal  Library,  of  170.000 
vols,  ;  the  handsome  Theatre  ;  the  Museums ;  and  nu- 
merous statues  and  monuments.  N.  W  is  Ihe  imposing 
Palace  of  the  G-uelphs  ;  also,  Uerreiihausen,  the  subur- 
ban palace  and  park  of  the  dethroned  dynasty.  Hano- 
ver is  10  hrs.  from  Rotterdam,  on  the  route  to  Berlin; 
and  7-10  hrs.  from  Berlin,  via  Brunswick  (fares,  3  mks. 
80  pf.,  2|  mks.)  and  Magdeburg.  Brunswick  {Schra- 
der''s  Hotel ;  I)eidsc.hes),\\\Q  residence  of  the  Duke  of 
Brunswick,  125,000  inliab.,  has  a  medieval  air,  with 
its  ancient  Gotiiic  Tovtm  Hall;  St.  Martin's  Ch.,  rich  in 
carvings;  the  Cathedral,  built  by  the  Crusader  Plenry 
the  Lion  in  1172  ;  the  brnnze  Lion  monument  (1166)  ; 
etc.  The  spleiidid  neA\  Ducal  Palace  is  near  \X\q  Ducal 
Museum,,  in  wliich  are  900  pictures,  and  countless  other 
relics  and  curios.  See  also  the  War  Monument  and 
the  Theatre,  The  fortifications  have  been  replaced  by 
promenades  and  gardens.  Magdeburg  {Central 
H'>tel)  on  the  Elbe,  has  220,000  inhab. ,  and  a  very  cele- 
brated Cathedral  (1208).     Great  cannon-foundry  near. 


HA:/IBUEG.  -  EIIEMEN.  239 

From  ITariDvcM-  it  is  112  M.  (4-5  hrs  ;  fares  16  mks. 
SO  pf.,  12  ,  liiAS..  8inks.)  by  Lilneburg,  with  its  ancient 
houses  .*'  )(l  '^'^-^  ^o  Hambnrs;  {Hmnburger  Ilof ; 
Esplanade;  Atlantic;  Kro7ipnnz;  V%er  Jahreszeiten; 
Europa).,  (580,000  mhab.;  ranking  next  after  London 
among  the  important  seaports  of  Europe.  It  is  on  the 
lower  Elbe,  and  is  the  chief  ut'  ihe  three  Hanseatie 
towns.  Charlemagne  fomidei?  a  castle  here  (805), 
and  Louis  the  Pious  an  arclibisliopric  ;  but  the  city  is 
now  aU  .iiiodera.  There  are  vast-  and  crowded  quays,, 
shipyards,  i-lvs.,  docks,  a  busy  Excliauge,  a  Town  Li- 
brary  (250,000  vols.),  ihms-mus,  in  )iiu!ueiits,  and  a  good 
Art  Galltry.  r,ic  Biiinsii-Alster  is  a  chariniug  water- 
park,  1  A[.  aroiiud,  siii-i-.)U!iaed  by  qua_ys  and  prome- 
nades, hues  of  trees,  and  blocks  of  handsome  liouses 
and  hotels,  and  eulivou-d  by  many  pleasure-boats  and 
groups  of  swans. 

Erom  H  imbui-g,  trains  run  S.W.,  76  M.(2ihrs.;  fares, 
10^  mks.,  7|  inks.,  4f  mks  ),  across  a  poor,  flat  country, 
to  Bremen(  Centra?;  Hillman^s;  Siedenhurg;  De  V Eu- 
rope; Du  Nord),  a  grea^t  Hanseatie  commercial  town^ 
on  the  Weser  River,  with  142,000  inh.  See  the  richly 
decorated  Rathhaus  (1410)  ;  the  frescoed  RathskeUery 
famous  for  wines  ;  the  11th-century  Romanesque  Cathe- 
dral ;  the  Kumthalle,  with  pictures ;  the  splendid  new 
Gothic  Exchange  ;  and  colossal  Roland  statue  (1412). 

"Frankfort  to  Weimar,  Leipsic,  and  Berlin. 

Time  required,  12-14  hrs. ;  fares,  43  mks.  40 pf.,  33 
mks.  60  pf.,  23  mks.  40  pf  This  route  passes  through 
Pulda,  an  ancient  ecclesiastical  capital ;  and  in  5-6  hrs. 
reaches  Eisenach  {Gros^herzog  von  Sachsen),  the  quiet 
town  where  Luther  went  to  school  Near  by  is  the 
Wartburg,  a  lofty  Romanesque  castle,  founded  in  1070, 


240  GOTHA.  -  WEIMAR.  — LEIPSIC. 

and  lately  restored  and  richly  frescoed.  Here  Luther 
was  hidden  (1521-23),  and  many  relics  of  his  sojourn 
are  shown.  4  hrs.  S.,  beyond  the  Ducal  capital  of 
Mei7iingen,  is  Coburg  {Victoria)^  a  handsome 
Francotiian  city,  with  a  remarkable  castle. 

On  the  Berlin  route  is  Gotha  {Deutscher  Hof),  a 
pleasant  ducal  city,  with  26,000  inliab.  In  arid  near 
the  great  Friedenstein  Palace  are  remarkable  collec- 
tions of  antiquities,  coins,  objects  of  art,  sculptures, 
engravings,  a  library  of  200,000  vols.,  and  a  famous 
picture-gallery.  The  ThujHugian  Forest  lies  around 
the  JSisenach-GotJui  rly.  Erfurt  (Romischer  Kaiser) 
is  an  ancient  Prussian  fortress,  with  53,000  mhab.,  a 
high-placed  Gothic  Catliedral,  and  the  Augustinian 
Monadery  in  which  Luther  became  a  monk  in  1505. 
Farther  on  toward  Berlin  is 

Weimar  (Erbprinz  ;  Russisclier  Hof),  capital  of 
the  grand-duchy  of  Saxe- Weimar,  an  ancient  town  of 
20,000  inhab.  Goethe  lived  here  56  years,  until  his 
death  in  1832;  and  his  ct)llections  are  shown.  Schil- 
ler's house  IS  o[)en  daily.  Herder  and  Wieland  also 
lived  at  Weimar.  Statues  of  all  these  are  in  the 
town;  and  frescos  from  their  works  adorn  the  hand- 
some Grand  Ducal  Falace.  Their  busts  and  many 
curiosities  ai-e  in  the  Grand-Dacal  Library  (170,000 
vols.;  open  daily).  The  lluseum  (open  April-Sept., 
10-4)  has  many  curios  and  paintings.  The  Stadt- 
kirche  (1400)  has  a  Crucifixion  by  Cranach,  and  the 
tomb  of  Herder.  Schiller  and  Goethe  are  buried 
m  the  cemetery,  S.  of  the  town.  Farther  towards 
Berlin  is 

Leipsic  {Kaiserhof,  Hauffe  de  Russie,  Sedan,  de 
Prusse),  a  city  of  400,000  inhab.,  the  centre  of  the 
German  book -trade,  the  seat  of  high  imperial 
tribunals,  and  the  place  where  3. great  fairs  are  held 
yearly,  drawing  many  traders  even  from  Asia  and 


LEIPSIC.  —  BERLIN.  241 

the  Levant.  30,000  strangers  come  to  these  fairs ;  and 
the  annual  sales  (largely  of  furs,  leather,  and  clotlis)  ex^ 
ceed  ^50,000,000.  These  picturesque  exchanges  have 
been  carried  on  for  over  700  years.  There  are  300 
booksellers  and  80  y)rinting-offices  here.  The  Museum 
has  Thorwaldsen's  Ganymede,  and  an  immense  collec- 
tion of  paintings  and  engravings,  mostly  modern  (open 
Sun., Wed. ,Fri., free;  Mon.  1  mk.;  Tues..Thurs..Sat., 
fmk.).  Tlie  Augusteum  is  the  seat  of  the  University, 
which  was  founded  in  1^02,  and  has  o,300  students  and 
a  library  of  350,000  vols,  and  4,000  MSS.  See  tlie  New 
Theatre,  with  beautiful  Corinthian  faQade  ;  the  Pleis- 
senbarg  citadel ;  the  oldj  houses  in  the  Grimma'sche 
Strasse  ;  Auerhach's  Keller,  where  part  of  the  scene  of 
Goethe's  Faust  is  laid ;  the  house  in  the  Bruhl  where 
Richard  Wagner  was  born  ;  the  Mhnorjraphical  Museuniy 
etc.  In  4  Oct.  days  of  1813,  300,000  Prussians,  Aus- 
trians,  and  Russians,  headed  by  their  sovereigns,  de- 
feated Napoleon  and  140,000  Frenchmen  here,  and 
drove  them  out  of  Leipsic.  In  the  Market  Place  is 
the  War  3Innument  by  Siemering. 

On  the  Leipsic- Magdebufg-Hauibn.rg  rlv-  is  Halle 
{Bode;  Ilamhurg;  Kronprinz),  wltli  91,000  inhab.,  and 
a  famous  university  (1.000  students).  In  the  market- 
place is  the  ancient  Ratlihaus,  the  many-towered  Ch.  of 
Our  Lady  (1530).  a  clock-tower  276  ft.  high,  and  a 
statue  of  Handel  Cborn  at  Halle,  1685). 

Berlin 

{Adloiir,  Alexandra,  Carlton,  Kaisei-hof,  Bristol^ 
Royal,  Savoy,  Palast,  Central,  Continental,  Rome, 
Monopol,  Westminster,  Esplanade),  capital  of  Ger- 
many) 1,600,000  inhabitants),  is  3  to  4  hours  from 
Leipsic,  on  a  sandy  plain,  by  the  river  Spree.    Origi- 


243  BERLIN. 

nally  a  Wenclish  fishing- village,  and  afterwards  a  Han- 
seatic  town,  it  was  notably  improved  by  the  Gre.it  Elector 
(1640-88),  and  by  Frederick  the  Great  and  his  predecessor 
(1713-86).  Since  tiie  accession  of  William  I.  in  1861  the 
population  has  increased  lourfold,  and  the  arts  and  trades 
have  flourished  remarkably. 

The  best  part  of  the  city  may  be  seen  by  walking  down 
the  Uiiter  den  Ijliulen,  a  broad  avenue,  1  M.  long,  with 
double  rows  of  lime-trees,  from  the  Brandenlxjrg  Gate 
to  the  Royal  Palace.  The  Gate  is  an  imitation  of  the 
Propyleea  at  Athens,  crowned  by  a  fine  statue  of  Victory 
with  horses.  This  was  taken  to  Paris  in  1807  as  a  trophy. 
Outside  is  the  TMergarten;  inside,  the  Pariser-Platz, 
with  the  BlUcher  Palace  and  Officers'  Club  on  the  S.,  and 
the  French  Emhassy  on  the  N.  There  are  several  other 
embassies  and  palaces  on  the  Linden,  with  various  govern- 
ment buildings.  The  Florentine  palace  of  Count  Redern 
is  the  first  building  on  the  S.,  and  beyond  are  the  resi« 
deuces  of  the  Minister  of  Religion  and  Education  and  of 
the  Russian  Ambassador.  Opposite  is  the  Ministry  of  the 
Interior.  See  the  Aquarium  and  the  arcade,  Kaiser-Gal- 
lerie.  \  the  E.  end  is  the  bronze  statue  of  Frederick  the 
Oreat,  by  Ranch,  called  the  finest  of  its  kind  in  Europe. 
The  king  is  on  horseback,  in  his  coronation-robes;  and 
the  lofty  pedestal  is  surrounded  with  life-size  statues  of 
his  generals,  princes,  etc.  To  the  S.  is  the  Palace  of  Wil- 
liam I.,  behind  which  is  the  Royal  Lilbrarij  (open  1-2),  with 
1,000,000  volumes  and  30,000  MSS.  N.  is  the  Academy 
Building  containing  the  Academies  of  Art  and  of  Science; 
also  tlie  University  (7,000  students),  once  Prince  Henry's 
palace,  and  partly  enclosing  gardens  in  which  are  statues 
of  the  Humboldts.  Fine  anatomical,  mineral,  and  zoologi- 
cal collections  here;  and  a  library  of  100,000  vols.  The 
Opern  Platz  contains  statues  of  5  generals,  by  Ranch,  and 
is  bounded  by  the  Palace,  University,  Opera  House,  and 


BERLIN.  ^43 

St.  Hedwig''s  Cfi.,  an  imitation  of  the  Roman  Pantheon. 
Farther  E.,  on  the  Linden,  at  the  r.  is  the  Empiess  Fred- 
erick Palace;  and  at  the  1,  is  the  Royal  Guard-House 
(military  music  in  summer,  11-13),  a  copy  of  a  Roman 
fortified  gate.  Back  of  this  is  the  Sin (jin{j- Academy ;  and 
on  one  side  is  the  handsome  Arsenal,  with  many  rare 
trophies  of  war.  Close  by  is  tlie  Schloss  Bridge,  adorned 
with  8  groups  of  statuary,  and  leading  to  tlie  Lustgarten, 
a  pai-k  in  which  stands  an  equestrian  statue  of  Frederick 
William  III.  On  one  side  is  the  lioyal  Palace,  a  vast 
double  quadrangle,  built  since  1540,  and  containing  600 
rooms  (open  daily,  10-1).  See  Swiss  Hall,  King's  Hall, 
Red-Eagle  Hall,  Throne  Room,  now  Ritter  Saal,  Velvet 
Room,  Black  Eagle  Hall,  Picture  Gallery  (fine  modern 
battle-paintings),  "White  Saloon  (statues  of  the  13  Elec- 
tors), and  Chapel,  rich  in  alabaster  and  gems,  and 
splendidly  frescoed.  Magnificent  new  Cathedral  must 
not  be  missed.  Opposite  the  palace  is  the  Old.  Museum, 
the  finest  building  in  the  city,  with  a  grand  Ionic  portico, 
adorned  with  colossal  bronze  groups,  and  richly  frescoed 
halls  (open  daily,  10-3).  See  the  collections  of  antiquities; 
the  sculptures ;  the  Hall  of  the  Heroes,  and  the  Picture 
Gallery,  unexcelled  in  its  facilities  for  the  study  of  art 
history.  The  New  Museum  contains  Kaulbach's  famous 
m.ural  paintings,  the  Egyptian  museum,  an  immense 
collection  of  casts,  13  cabinets  of  Northern  antiquities,  4 
rooms  of  objects  of  art,  and  500,000  engravings.  It  has  a 
Renaissance  facade  to  the  E. ;  and  opposite  is  the  new 
Corinthian  temple  of  the  National  Gallery  (open  daily, 
11-3),  which  contains  a  magnificent  and  world-renowned 
collection  of  modern  paintings. 

The  Friedriclis-8ta<lt  is  the  business  centre  of  Berlin, 
and   the  streets  in   this  section  are  interesting.    The 


24:4:  BERLIN. 

Theatre  is  a  classic  structure,  on  the  Schiller-Platz,  witl? 
several  line  bronze  groups;  in  front,  a  noble  statue  ol 
Schiller.  The  Wilhelmsirasse  contains  notable  palaces; 
and  in  the  Wilhelms-Platz  are  statues  of  6  of  Frederick 
the  Great's  generals.  At  the  west  end  of  the  busy  Leip- 
ziger-Strasse  are  tlie  halls  of  the  Prussian  Diet,  the  offices 
of  the  ministers  of  War  and  Navy,  and  of  tlie  Postmaster- 
General;  adjoining  latter  is  the  interesting  Post -Office 
Museum.  Just  beyond  Leipziger-Platz  is  the  Potsdamer- 
Platz,  and  near  this  on  Koniggratzer-Strasse  corner 
Prinz-Albrecht-Strasse  is  Ethnographical  Museum  (10-3), 
next  to  wliich  is  the  Art  Industrial  Museum  (10-3).  Belle 
Alliance  Platz  contains  lofty  granite  column  of  Peace 
(1840),  surrounded  by  splendid  marble  groups. 

At  the  Eo  end  of  Leipziger-Strasse  is  the  Spittel-Markt. 
Near  this  (5  Wall-Strasse)  is  Ravene''s  Gallery  of  modern 
French  and  German  pictures  (Tues.  &  Fri.,  10-3).  S.  of 
tlie  Schloss-Brlicke  is  the  Academy  of  Architecture.  The 
Schinkel-Platz  h-AS  statues  of  Schinkel,  Beuth,  and  Thaer. 
The  Kurfiirsten  Bridge  leads  from  tlie  square  S.  of  the 
Royal  Palace  into  old  Berlin,  where  are  tlie  Imperial 
Post-Office  and  the  Mth-century  Ch.  of  St.  Mary.  The 
Rathhaus  (open  10-3)  is  an  immense  Romanesque  building 
of  brick  (1860-70),  with  a,  tower  :i86  ft.  high,  and  several 
handsome  Jialls.  Underneath  is  the  RaUiskeUer,  a  great 
refresliment-room.  Opposite  the  Museum  is  the  StocTc 
Exchange,  a  sumptuous  Renaissance  building,  with  the 
greatest  hall  in  Berlin,  riclily  frescoed.  Beyond  the 
Hercules  Bridge  (on  wlaich  are  statues  by  Schadow)  is 
Monbijou,  a  beautiful  royal  palace,  in  wliich  is  the  Hohen- 
zollern  Museum  (daily,  10-3) .  Near  by  is  the  great  Syna- 
gogue, Moorish  in  style. 

The  splendid  KOnigs-Platz  adjoins  the  Thiergarten, 
and  coniains  the  Monument  of  Victory,  190  ft.  high,  com.- 


POTSDAM.  245 

memorating^  tlie  battles  of  1870-71.  Here  is  the  Italian 
Renaissance  Hall  of  the  Imperial  Diet,  which  cost  23,000,- 
OCO  mks.  Avenue  of  Victory,  Berlin's  favorite  promenade, 
leads  through  the  Thiergarten,  a  park  2  M.  long  and  J  M. 
wide,  v(^ith  many  ponds  and  groves  of  large  trees.  At  the 
end  is  a  large  Zoological  Garden.  S.  of  this  is  the  Emperor 
William  3Iemorial  Church,  erected  in  1895.  To  S.E.  is  the 
Botanical  Garden  with  plants  of  30,000  species.  Horse-cars 
run  through  the  Thiergarten  to  Charlottenburg-,  a  large 
town  with  a  Palace  (1699)  in  a  handsome  garden,  and  a 
Mausoleum,  with  sculptures  by  illustrious  masters.  In 
Berlin's  Old  Trinity  Cemetery,  Mendelssohn  is  buried  ;  and 
in  Trinity  Cemetery,  Schleiermacher  and  Neander.  Cor- 
nelius rests  in  Hedwig''s  Cemetery;  Ranch,  Schadow, 
Schinkel,  Hegel,  and  Fichte,  in  the  Old  Dorotheenstadt 
Cemetery;  and  the  Humboldts,  at  Tegel. 

Potsdam  {EinsiedUr,  Eisenbahn,  with  good  restaurant) 
is  16  M.  from  Berlin  (K  hr.;  75  pf.),  among  wooded  hills 
and  the  lakelike  expanses  of  the  Havel.  Here  is  the  Sans- 
souci  Palace,  built  by  Frederick  the  Great,  and  full  of 
reminiscences  of  him.  Near  by  are  the  Picture-Gallery, 
the  Orangery  (adorned  with  fine  statuary),  and  the 
Sicilian  Garden,  The  New  Palace  (1769)  has  200  richly 
adorned  rooms,  with  fine  paintings,  and  a  noteworthy 
Marble  Saloon.  The  Marble  Palace  is  N.  of  Potsdam,  and 
has  many  paintings.  BabeUberg  is  a  new  Gothic  palace, 
with  rich  art-treasures.  The  Town  Palace  (1660)  is  full  of 
relics  of  the  Great  Frederick.  The  Garrison  Church  con- 
tains his  tomb  and  military  trophies.  The  Church  of 
Peace  is  a  noble  Ionic  basilica,  Avith  masterpieces  of 
sculpture.  The  famous  Sanssouci  fountains  play  on 
summer  Sunday  afternoons.  There  are  several  chateaux 
of  princes  near  Potsdam.  (60,000  inhab.). 


DrvESDEN. 


Dresden  and  Prague. 

Express- trains,  Berlin  to  Dresden,  3  brs.  (108  M.;  16 
mks.  30  pf.,  13  mks.  30  pf.,  8  mks.  50  pf.). 

Dresden  {Grand  Union,  Savoy,  Europaischer  Hof,  Conti- 
nental, Bellevue,  Berliyi,  Rom,  Kronprinz,  Vier  Jahres- 
zeiten),  "the  German  Florence,"  lias  400,000  inhab.,  and 
has  been  the  capital  of  Saxony  since  1485.  Many  British 
and  American  families  dwell  here,  induced  by  the 
abundant  facilities  for  culture  and  amusement,  and  also 
by  the  cheapness  of  living.  The  Elbe  is  crossed  by  3  stone 
bridges,  axid  bordered  by  the  popular  promenade,  the 
Brii^I  Terrace,  adorned  with  statuary  and  trees.  Here 
front  the  Synagogue,  the  Art  Academy,  the  Exhibition 
Buildings,  and  the  Court  Ch.  (famous  music.  Sun.  and 
festivals,  11)  Statues  of  Richter  and  Semper  and  the 
Maurice  monument  here.  Opposite  Court  Church  is  the 
Hof -Theater,  and  near  it  Guard  House.  In  square  is 
equestrian  statue  of  King  John.  The  Royal  Palace  (1534) 
is  an  irregular  double  quadrangle,  with  a  tower  361  ft. 
high,  and  a  richlv  frescoed  Throne  Room.  The  Green- 
Vault  (9-3  daily ;  catalogue,  1  mk.)  contains  the  largest 
existing  collection  of  objects  of  art,  bronzes,  ivory  carv- 
ings, mosaics,  enamels,  gems,  crystal,  and  magnificent 
plate ;  also  the  regalia  of  Poland  •  and  Saxony,  superb 
state  swords,  and  precious  stones  of  enorm.ous  value ;  and 
works  of  DtJrer,  Angelo,  and  Cellini.  The  Museum  (part 
of  the  Zwinger)  is  a  Renaissance  building  decorated  with 
statues  and  sculptures,  and  containing  the  finest  picture- 
gallery  N.  of  Italy  (open  daily;  Sun.,  Tues.,  Thurs., 
Fri.  free).  Here  are  3,400  paintings,  including 
the  Sistine  Madonna,  Correggio's  La  Notte,  and 
Titian's     Tribute     Money;     and     choice      works     of 


SAXON  SWITZERLAND.  247 

Murillo,  Diirer,  Teniers,  Yeronese,  etc. ;  also,  350,000 
engravings,  a  great  museum  of  casts,  collections  in 
natural  history  and  mineralogy,  and  the  most  interest- 
ing Historical  Museum  in  Germany  (ancient  weapons, 
armor,  furniture,  and  trophies  of  war).  See  the  Eng- 
lish ch. ;  the  stone-domed  Ch.  of  Our  Lady;  the  Cross 
Ch.,  with  tower  346  ft.  high,  and  fountains  and  statues 
in  the  streets.  Mouument  to  the  War  of  1870-71,  in 
the  Old  Market. 

The  Japanese  Palace,  across  the  Elbe,  contains 
the  Royal  Library,  with  400,000  vols.,  6,000  MSS., 
and  many  rare  old  books  and  maps  (open  to  visitors 
12-1  summer,  1-2  winter,  |  mk.) ;  tlie  Collection  of 
Forcelahi  (15,000  pieces  of  Dresden,  Sevres,  and  Ori- 
ental wares ;  open  daily)  ;  and  collections  of  coins  and 
antiquities.  In  the  rear  is  the  pretty  Japanese  Garden, 
neai-  which  Koruer  was  born  and  Schiller  dwelt.  The 
Grosse  Garten  is  a  royal  park  of  300  acres,  wherein 
the  French  and  Prussians  fought  in  1813.  Here  are 
Zoological  and  Botanical  Gardens;  also  a  Museum  of 
Antiquities^  and  Riefsrhel  Museum  of  sculptures  (both 
open  daily).  Schlegel  and  Weber  are  buried  in  the 
Catholic  Cemetery.  The  monument  where  Gen. 
Moreau  was  mortally  wounded  is  1^  M.  S. ;  and  the 
Morltzburg ,  a  royal  hunting-lodge,  is  6  M.  N.  Fillnitz 
(7  M.)  is  a  handsome  royal  chateau.  Many  charming 
suburban  excursions. 

The  Saxon  Switzerland  is  a  beautiful  mt.  region, 
4-500  square  M.  in  area,  filled  with  grotesque  sand- 
stone peaks  and  gorges,  and  traversed  by  the  Elbe. 
A  2-days'  tour  leads  from  Dresden  to  Potzsclia  (f  hr. 
by  rly.) ;  thence  (1^  hr.)  to  the  Bastei,  a  hotel-crowned 
peak,  overlooking  the  whole  region  and  the  Elbe  valley . 
thence  (5  hrs.)  io  Schandau,  a  summer  resort  (hotels) 
in  the  heart  of  the  mt'^'      and  thence  (1  day)  by  the 


HS  PRAGUE 

Lichtenhahi  Fall  and  tlie  Kiilistall  and  Prebisc/Uhor 
peaks,  to  K'dnlgdeiii,  a  lofty  and  imposing  Saxon  for- 
tress.  It  is  5-7  iirs.  (fares,18  mks.  70  pf.,  14  mks.  10  pf., 
9  mks.  40  pf.)  up  the  Elbe  valley  and  through  the 
Saxon  Switzerland,  by  Pima  and  Konigdeiii,  with  their 
fortresses,  and  Bodenhach  (2|  hrs.  from  i\\c  Schneeberg, 
and  opposite  the  handsome  castle  of  Tesche)i),  from 
Dresden  to 

Pragrue  {De  Saxe;  3Io7iopol:  Royal;  Schwartzes 
Ross;  Blauer  Stern;  Yidoria;  Goldener  Engel).  the 
capital  of  Bohemia  (250,000  inh.),  situated  on  hills 
near  the  Moldau  lliver,-  f  of  tlie  people  are  Bohemians, 
and  the  Germans  are  very  unpopri^ar.  The  city  was 
founded  by  the  Duchess  Libussa.  Here  Huss  and 
Jerome  preached  the  Reformation,  which  took  firm 
root  in  Bohemia  until  the  Protestant  army  was  crushed, 
just  outside  of  Prague,  in  1620,  by  the  Bavarian  forces 
of  the  Roman-Catholic  League.  The  palace  of  the 
Bohemian  kings  is  now  an  Austrian  barrack ;  and  tlie 
old  Hussite  ch.,  the  Teynkirche,  containing  Tycho 
Brahe's  tomb,  is  now^  Roman.  In  front  of  the  Rath- 
haus  27  Protestant  Boiiemian  nobles  vrere  executed,  in 
1620 ;  and  11  of  Wallensteiu's  officers,  in  1633.  See 
the  Palace  of  Count  Clam  Gallas ;  the  Gothic  Puher- 
tlmrm  tower ;  the  great  Jesuit  College ;  the  ancient 
University,  founded  in  1348 ;  the  Bohemian.  National 
Museum;  the  Rossmarkt,  a  grand  street  adorned  Mntli 
statues ;  the  Neustadt  Rathhaus,  where  the  Hussite 
wars  began ;  the  Jews'  Quarter,  with  9  synagogues  and 
a  very  ancient  cemetery ;  and  the  Wysschrad  citadel. 
The  Charles  Bridge  (1357-1507),  with  16  arches, 
towers  of  defence  (on  one  of  which  the  beads  of  the 
Protestant  nobles  were  exposed  for  10  years),  and  30 
statues  of  saints,  crosses  the  Moldau  to  the  splendid 
Radetzkv  Monument   (made  from  Italian  cannon)  and 


CARLSBAD.  —  TEPLITZ.  249 

the  JeHinf  Ch.  On  tlie  rocky  lieights  above  is  the  mar- 
vellous Hradschin,  where  stands  the  Cathedral  (1844; 
-83),  containing'  the  marble  and  alabaster  mausoleum 
(1589)  ot"  the  Bohemian  kings;  the  tombs  of  St.  Adal- 
bert, St.  Vitus,  St.  Wenzcl,  and  several  Sclavonic 
kings,  and  many  rare  mosaics  and  pauitings.  The 
great  Imperial  Palace  (o|)en  daily,  11-1,  111.)  cou- 
tains  portraits,  ancient  halls,  and  the  Council  Cliamber 
from  which  the  imperial  councillors  were  thrown, 
causing  tlie  Thirty  Years'  War.  In  the  Sternberg 
Palace  is  a  collection  of  350-400  paintings  (open, 
daily).  The  vast  Czerjiin  Palace  is  now  a  barrack. 
Near  it  is  a  Capuchin  monastery,  with  a  chapel  copied 
after  the  Casa  Santa  at  Tvoretto.  Higher  up  is  the 
wealthy  and  imposing  Abbey  of  Strahow,  with  the 
tombs  of  St.  Norbert  and  Gen.  Pappenlieitn,  a  painting 
by  Diirer,  a  fine  library,  and  splendid  views  over 
Prague,  t^'ie  Moldau  plahi,  and  the  Giant  Mts.  Below 
the  Belcedcre,  an  imperial  villa  (1530)  with  Bohemian 
historical  frescos,  are  "Wallenstein's  Palace  (1636) 
and  the  Noslitz  Palace,  containing  400  paintings. 

Carlsbad  (/Saroy;  Bristol;  Papp;  Anger's;  Konigs- 
villa;  NationaL;  Hannocti ;  Kroh),  6-7  hrs.  W. 
of  Piague,  is  visited  by  over  20,000  yearly,  who  find 
the  suipiiur  and  saline  waters  beneticiai,  and  pretly 
scenery  of  Te[)l  glens  and  pine  woods  very  charming. 

Tepiitz  {Zam  alien  Ralhaus;  Planer  Stem),  3-4 
hrs.  from  Dresden,  4-5  hrs.  from  Prague,  another  fam- 
ous watering-place,  with  warm  alkaline  springs,  used 
for  bathing.  Scenery  is  mountainous,  picturesque; 
and  ruined  castles,  hill-top  inns,  and  rich  abbeys 
abound  From  Prague  to  Munich  is  a  ride  of  11-12 
hrs.  (38  mks.  90  pf.,'  30  mks.  60  pf.,  21^  mks).  From 
Prague  you  can  go  to  Vienna  by  night-train  (217  M. ; 
8-10    hrs.  i  fares,   18  mks.  70  pf.,  13  mks.  70  pf.),  via 


250  VIENNA. 

Tabor  and  Gmtind.     Berlin  to  Breslau  and  Vienna, 
18-20  hrs.     Dresden  to  Znaim  and  Vienna,  14  hrs. 

Vienna. 

Yiotols.— Imperial ;  Archduhe  Charles;  Bristol ; 
Metropole  ;  De  France  ;  Residenz  ;  Meissl  ;  Krantz; 
Grand;  Sacher;  (in  the  suburbs),  Co?iti7iental,  Leo- 
pohlstadt;  Kammer,  Mariahilf;  Holler,  Neubau. 

Restaurants. — Vienna  is  expensive  town,  and  a 
few  hints  may  be  useful.  There  is  no  obligation  to  take 
more  than  first  breakfast  in  hotels  where  you  lodge. 
Sacher  s,  near  thn  Opera;  Hopfer ;  Hartmann;  Leh- 
iier;  Bellaria;  Dreher^s,  close  to  Opera,  and  some 
of  the  cafe-restaurants  on  the  Ring,  are  good.  The 
Viennese  sup  from  9  to  11 ;  and  the  traveller  should 
not  fail  to  take  supper  in  one  of  the  concert-halls,  fre- 
quented by  good  society.  Table-d'hote  is  not  general. 
Good  dinners  can  be  had  at  the  restaurants,  at  fixed 
prices.  Austrian  wines  most  in  use  are  Voslauer  (red) 
and  Gmripoklskirchener  (white).  The  Hungarian 
wines  are  Erlauer,  Carlowitzer,  and  Ofener  (red) ;  and 
Tokayer  aad  Ruster  (white). 

Carriages  (2-horse),  1  fl.  for  drive  within  the  city 
limits;  1^11.  an  hr. ;  1 -horse,  Ifl.  20kr.  an  hr.  Drivers 
expect  liberal  gratuity.  Horse-cars,  with  smoking- 
compartments,  run  around  the  Ritig,  the  Franz- 
Joseph-Qiiai,  and  across  the  Aspern  Bridge  to  the 
Prater  (fare,  12kr.).  The  railway  termini  are  all 
joined  by  a  circular  connecting  line. 

The  capital  of  Austria  and  Hungary,  with  upwards 
of  1,400,000  inh.,  stands  on  a  mountain- walled  plain 
near  the  Danube  River,  and  is  one  of  the  handsomest, 
m-ost  enterprising,  and  most  interesting  of  European 
cities.  Vienna  was  first  a  Celtic  village;  then  a  Roman 
fort,  where  Marcus  Aurelius  died  (18'^);  left  a  deso- 
lation by  the  Huns;  made  a  fief  of  the  empire  by 
Charlemagne;   occupied  by  the  Duke  of  Austria  in 


VIENNA.  251 

1156  ;  enriched  by  the  Crusades;  fortified  in  1251;  oc- 
cupied by  tlie  Hapsburgs  in  1276  ;  besieged  by  the 
Turks  in  1529  and  1683  ;  occupied  by  the  French  in 
1805  and  1809  ;  and  in  the  power  of  Prussia  in  1866. 

The  Church  of  St.  Stephen,  at  the  centre  of 
Vienna,  built  of  limestone,  1300-1510,  and  restored 
in  1860.  The  nave  is  354  ft.  long  and  89  feet  high  ; 
and  its  rich  groined  roof  rests  on  huge  pillars, 
adorned  with  100  statuettes.  See  the  old  imperial 
burial-vault,  the  tomb  of  Prince  Eugene  ot  Savoy,  the 
stone  pulpit  (1512),  the  sarcophagus  in  the  Thekla 
Choir,  the  carved  choir-slalls,  and  the  stained  windows. 
Great  catacombs  beneath.  On  the  outside,  see  Giant's, 
Eagle's,  and  Bishop's  Dours,  tomb  ot"  the  Meislersanger, 
pulpit  of  Capistranus,  and  Heathen  towers.  The 
tower  is  453  ft.  high  (20  kr.),  and  the  guides  point  out 
thence  the  battle-fields  of  Wagrara  and  Essling.  At 
the  corner  of  the  Graben,  the  chief  business  and  shop- 
ping street,  is  the  Stock  am  Eisen,  a  pine-tree  stump 
full  of  nails,  driven  on  account  of  an  ancient  custom. 
In  the  Graben  is  the  grotesque  Trinity  Column  (i693)'. 
The  Kohlmarkt  is  a  street  of  shops,  leading  to  the  Im- 
perial Palace.  The  Ring  is  the  magnificent  boule- 
vard, 165  ft.  wide  and  2  M.  long,  which  (with  the 
Quay  on  the  Danube  Canal)  surrounds  the  inner  town, 
and  occupies  the  place  of  the  old  ramparts  and  glacis. 
Beginning  at  the  Aspern  Bridge,  it  passes  between  the 
great  barracks  and  the  Custom  House.  The  next 
section,  the  Stuheti-Ring,  passes  the  handsome  new 
Austrian  Museum  (open  daily),  with  9  rooms, 
crowded  witli  choice  works  in  gold,  brass,  iron,  ivory, 
bronze,  tapestry,  leather,  etc.,  and  paintings  and  staL. 
uary.  This  German  S'  Kensington  is  joined  by  a 
corridor  to  the  Technical  6'chool,  near  which  is  a  statue 
of  Pallas  Athene.     The  Fark-Rinq  runs  between  the 


252  VIENNA. 

pretty  Stadt  Park,  where  the  Strausses  may  often  b^ 
heard,  and  the  Horticidtural  Palace,  behmd  which  are 
the  splendid  modern  palaces  of  the  Duke  of  Coburg 
and  the  Archduke  William.  The  Kolowrat-Ring  passes 
the  Casino  (the  club  of  the  nobility)  and  the  Gothic 
Academie  Gymnasium.  From  the  Schwartzenberg-Platz, 
with  its  monument  and  ducal  palaces,  the  Kdrnthner- 
Ring  passes  the  Imperial  and  Grand  Hotels,  the  beauti- 
ful building  of  the  Musical  Union,  and  the  Renaissance 
Artists'"  House  (exhibitions  of  paintings).  The  busy 
OperwRing  leads  by  the  magnificent  Opera  House, 
the  best  in  Germany,  with  sumptuous  frescos  and 
decorations  ;  and  the  Palace  of  the  Archduke  Albert,  in 
which  is  the  Albertina  (open  Mon.  and  Thurs.,  9-2), 
a  collection  of  40,000  books,  200,000  engravings,  and 
Imndi-eds  of  drawings  by  Raphael,  Rubens,  Diirer,  etc. 
The  Burg-Ring  is  between  the  huge  new  buildings  of 
the  Imperial  Museums  and  the  Imperial  Palace.  The 
Franzens-Ring  passes  the  Yolksgarten,  a  popular  park, 
with  a  temple  containing  Cancva's  Theseus.  Near  it 
is  the  superb  Votive  Ch.,  commemorating  the  Em- 
peror's escape  from  assassination  in  1853,  and  adorned 
with  twin  spires,  abounding  in  statues,  and  345  ft. 
high,  and  wonderful  stained  windows.  Near  by  are 
vast  hospitals,  unrivalled  in  Europe ;  and  the  great 
new  buildings  of  the  University,  the  Gothic  Rathhaus, 
the  Coui-ts  of  Justice,  the  Hofburg  Theatre,  the  Mili- 
tary Offices,  and  the  classic  Parliament  House.  The 
Schotten- Ring  contains  the 'Exchange,  a  new  Renais- 
sance structure  (cost  $3,500,000),  the  vast  Police 
Office,  and  the  Stiftungshmis  erected  on  the  site  of 
the  Ring  Theatre,  which  was  burned  with  great  loss 
of  life  in  1881,  and  leads  to  the  Danube  Canal. 

The  Hofburg,  or  Imperial  Palace,  the  home  of 
Austria's  sovereigns  for  6  centuries,  is  a  vast  and  irreg- 


VIENNA  253 

ular  group  of  buildings,  with  a  labyrinth  of  courts, 

fates,  and  corridors.  See  the  magnificent  Knights^ 
Tall,  ?n  til?  Residenz;  the  apartments  of  Maria  Theresa; 
^he  liidmg 'School ;  the  Guard-House  (military  music 
daily,  at  Y}\  the  AiiguHtinian  Ch.,  with  its  monuments; 
the  Hofgarten;  and.  \\\q  statues  of  Francis  I.,  Joseph 
II.,  the  Aichduke  Charles,  Prince  Eugene,  etc.  The 
Imperial  Library  (open  daily,  9-4)  contains  600,000 
?ols.,  20,000  MSS.,  and  300,000  engravings.  The 
Natural-Ristorji  and  Mineral  Cabinets  are  very  inter- 
esting. The  Treasury  (open  almost  every  day)  is 
the  most  interesting  in  Europe,  and  contains  the  entire 
i'egalia  ot  Austria,  coronation -robes,  jewel-studded  dec- 
orations, jewelry,  caskets  of  gold,  silver,  and  crystal. 
Napoleon  I.'s  regalia  as  King  of  Italy,  the  sabre  of 
Haroun-al-Raschid,  the  crown  and  sword  of  Charle- 
magne, the  lance  which  pierced  the  Saviour's  side,  etc. 
Among  the  jewels  is  the  Elorentine  diamond,  valued  at 
:$300,000. 

The  homely  Capuchin  Gh.  contains  the  Imperial 
Vault  (open  daily;  gratuity  for  the  poor),  where  you 
may  see  the  coffins  in  which  lie  Maria  Theresa,  Marie 
I/ouise,  Maximilian  of  Mexico,  and  other  sovereigns. 
Near  by  is  the  Imperial  Printi7ig-0fj[ice  (open  Tues. 
and  Eri.,  9-12).  The  JJniversity  (4,000  students) 
is  in  the  Franzens-Eing. 

The  suburban  Liechtenstein  Palace  (open  daily, 
9-6)  has  a  gallery  of  1,600  paintings,  with  many 
remarkable  works  of  Uubens  and  Van  Dyck.  The 
Schonborn  Palace  (Mon.,  Wed.,  and  Eri'.,  9-3)  has 
a  famous  collection  of  pictures  ;  and  the  Harrach  Pah 
Mce  (Wed.  and  Sat.,  10-4)  contains  400  interesting 
paintings.  There  are  many  very  interesting  ancient 
and  modern  clis.  in  Vienna,  many  palaces,  and  civio 
and  national  institutions,  monuments,  squares  and 
bridges,  which  should  be  seen. 


254  VIENNA. 

The  Belvedere,  an  Imperial  resicleiice,bmlt  in  1693* 
1724,  and  once  inhabited  by  Prince  Eugene  of  Savoy, 
has  a  beautiful  French  garden.  Its  gallery  formerly 
contained  about  1,500  paintings,  including  a  remark- 
able collection  of  early  Italian  and  Venetian  works, 
and  Diirer's  world-renowned  "  Trinity,"  all  of  which 
were  removed  to  the  Imperial  Art  Museum  in  1891. 
The  other  of  the  two  buildings  forming  the  Belve- 
dere, known  as  the  Lower  Belvedere,  contained  ths 
famous  Ambras  collection,  removed  in  1889  to  the 
Art-History  Museum.  Near  by  is  the  vast  Arsenal, 
with  the  richly  frescoed  Hall  of  Fame,  and  thousands 
of  military  relics  and  trophies  of  the  Turkish,  French, 
Swedish,  and  Italian  wars.  Here  also  are  great  bar- 
racks, gun-factory,  and  cannon-foundry. 

The  Prater  is  an  immense  forest-park  on  the  B 
(laid  out  in  1766),  with  cafes,  band-music,  theatres, 
and  avenues.  On  May  and  June  afternoons  the  fashion- 
able world  of  Austria  may  be  seen  driving  in  the  HaupU 
Allee.  W'urstel  Prater  is  the  part  frequented  by  the 
humbler  classes.  In  the  cemetery  of  Wahring,  1-|  M. 
N.  W.  of  the  city,  Beethoven,  Schubert,  and  Grilipar- 
zer  are  buried;  Mozart  lies  at  8t.  Marx,  and  Gluck  at 
Matzleinsdorf. 

Schonbrunn  (horse-cars  or  omnibus)  is  a  splendid 
suburban  miperiai  residence,  where  Napoleon  I.  had 
his  headquarters,  and  where  his  son  died  (1832). 
Beautiful  gardens,  fountains,  statuary,  and  flowers. 
On  the  W.  are  the  villas  of  Hietzing.  Laxenburg 
(f  hr.  by  rly.)  is  another  imperial  chateau  (built  in 
1377),  with  many  interesting  halls  and  monuments. 
The  Kahlenberg,  N.  of  Vienna,  overlooks  the  Danube 
plain,  the  Carpatiiians,  and  the  Styrian  Alps.  There 
are  many  other  lovely  excursions  in  the  environs. 


PESTH  255 

SOUTHEASTERN  EUROPE 

IHIS  interesting  region  is  easily  reached  from  Vi- 
enna, whence  steamers  descend  the  Danube  to 
Pesth  in  12-13  hrs.  (starting  at  6.30  a.  m.  ;  fares,  7  fl., 
4f  fl.).  Pesth  to  Vienna,  by  rly,,  7-8  hrs.  (fares  9  fl. 
60  kr. ,  7  fl.  80  kr.  by  express).  The  steamer  passes 
Lobau  island,  where  Napoleon  and  150,000  soldiers, 
with  700  cannon,  were  encamped  in  1809;  and  tlie  cas- 
tles of  i>ejifcc/i.-J.^?^(S?i/!'irr^,7i«nz5?/r^,  and  Thebeiij  and 
in  2^  hrs.  reaches  Presburg  {Grilner  Baum;  Konig 
wn  Ungarn),  the  former  capital  (48,000  inh.),  on  the 
foot-hills  of  the  little  Carpathians.  In  XhQ  Cathedral 
(1090)  the  Hungarian  kings  were  crowned.  Before  it 
is  a  statue  of  St.  Martin.  See  the  RatMaus  (1288); 
the  beautiful  Franciscan  Gh.  (1293);  &uAt\\Q  Museums. 
From  the  ruins  of  the  imperial  palace,  on  the  Schloss- 
lerg,  there  is  a  lovely  view  over  the  villages  and  vine- 
yards.    Beautiful  excursions  in  the  vicinity. 

Below  Presburg  the  shores  are  flat.  Komorn  is  a 
powerful  fortress  (14,000  inhab.);  Gran  (10,000  in. 
hab.)  has  lofty-domed  cathedral;  Wme^ratZ,  a  ven- 
erable fortress,  ruined  by  the  Turks. 

Budapest  {Grand  Hotel  Hungaria ;  Queen  of 
England;  Panno7iia ;  Jdgerhoiii ;  Royal;  Fiume, 
in  Biida;  MargaretenhaJ.,  on  the  island)  has  750,000 
inhabitants.  It  is  the  capital  of  Hungary,  and  is  a 
handsome  modern  city,  next  only  to  Vienna  in  im- 
portance in  the  empire-kingdom.  The  beautiful 
modern  Renpjssaiice  Academy  (11-1)  contains  a  li- 
brary and  botanical  collection,  and  has  many  Hun- 
garian IPuudscapes  and  historical  paintings.  The 
National  Museum  (9-1)  is  rich  in  Roman  Transyl- 
vanian,  and  Hungarian  antiquities,  and  has  a  natural 
history  collection  and  a  library  and  waiting  room. 
The  magnificent  Moro-Romanesque  Redoute  Build- 
ings contain  ball-rooms,  concert  halls,  assembly 
rooms,  etc.  The  new  M\iseum  of  Fine  Arts  Qovit&ms 
the  great  National  (formerly  Esterhazy)  Gallery  with 


258  BELGRADE-BAZIASCH. 

900  paintings,  22,000  drawings,  and  about  75,000 
engravings,  and  also  a  collection  of  modern  pictures. 
See  the  Indiislrial  Art  Iluseum  with  exterior  colored 
ornamentation  in  Magyar  style;  the  House  of  Par- 
liament ;  the  PaZctce  of  Justice;  the  Hathaus ;  the 
Opera  House;  the  new  Jioyal  Agricultural  Museum 
in  the  Varosliget  Park  ;  the  Post  Office  ;  the  pro- 
menades along  the  Danube  ;  the  statues  of  Stefan 
Szechenyi,  Joseph  von  Eotvos,  Archduke  Joseph, 
Franz  Deak,  and  Alexander  Petofi ;  the  colossal 
sculptural  bulls  in  front  of  the  slaughter  house  ;  the 
Varosliget  Park  ;  the  Kerepesi  Cemetery  with  monu- 
ments of  Kossuth,  Battliyany,  Deak,  and  others; 
the  Margarethen-lnsel,  a  pretty  island-park  (cafes 
and  military  music)  ;  and  various  new  national 
buildings.  A  splendid  suspension-bridge  andother 
bridges  connect  Pest  and  Buda  (Ofen).  The  latter 
was  once  a  Roman  colony,  and  for  150  years  a 
Turkish  town.  See  the  Royal  Palace,  the  great 
modern  fortress,  and  St.  llafthius  Church.  There 
are  famous  baths  in  Ofen,  founded  by  the  Turks, 
near  one  of  which  is  a  mosque. 

Steamers  from  Pesth  to  Orsova,  50  hours,  a  superb 
trip,  passing  Mohdcs,  where  the  Turks  conquered 
Hungary  (1526);  Neusatz,  a  fortified  modern  tuwn; 
Pet erward 6171,  where  Peter  the  Hermit  preached  the 
First  Crusade ;  Garloivitz,  and  Sejnlin,  where  is 
Hunyadi's  castle. 

Belgrade  {Hotel  de  Paris),  the  capital  of  Servia, 
has  40,000  inhab.,  a  quaint  (Oriental  town,  with  nar- 
row streets  curving  under  a  fortress-crowned  rock. 

4-5  hrs.  below  is  Baziasch,  the  end  of  the  ry.  from 
Pesth.  Travelers  come  down  this  way  and  take  steamer 
at  Baziasch,  where  the  Danube  enters  the  magnificent 
scenery  of  the  Carpathians.     On  the  r.,  in  this  tre- 


ORSOVA.  —  BUCHAREST.  257 

mendous  defile,  is  the  ruined  fortress  of  Golubacz,  and 
ancient  Roman  forts.  At  Drencova  tlie  rapids  are 
entered.  Servia  is  on  the  r.,  Hunc^arj  on  the  1. 
Through  the  Defile  of  Kasan  the  rive^r  is  500-600  ft. 
wide,  between  immense  rocky  cliffs.  Trajan's  Roman 
road  is  on  the  r.  bank ;  and  his  inscription,  commemo- 
rating the  Dacian  campaign,  is  near  the  end. 

Orsova  {Kmig  vo7i  Ungarn)  is  a  pretty  Wallachian 
village,  just  above  the  famous  Iron  Grates,  where  the 
Danube  plunges  through  a  rocky  caiion  \\  M.  long. 
A  rly.  runs  from  Pesth  to  Orsova  (305  M. ;  fares, 
25fl.  65kr.,  19  11.  22  kr.,  12fl.  80kr.),  by  Temesvar 
(33,000  inhab.).  From  Vienna  to  Bucharest  by  this 
favorite  route,  29-30  hrs.  (fares,  174  fr.  80  c,  131^  fr. ; 
the  Roumanian  currency  is  like  that  of  France). 

The  through  journey  from  Pesth  to  Constantinople 
(3  days;  fares,  food  included,  108^  ti.,  75|^fl.)  is  by 
rly.  to  Bayisch,  thence  by  express-steamer  to  Rustchuk, 
rly.  to  Varna,  and  steamer  down  the  Black  Sea.  Erora 
Giurgevo,  opposite  Rustchuk,  rly.  to  Bucharest. 

Vienna  to  Bucharest. — Fares,  16  fi.  62  kr,,  12  fL 
70  kr.,  9  fl.  79  kr.,  to  Craco-w  {Grand;  Saxe),  once 
the  capital  of  Poland,  annexed  to  Austria  in  1846. 
Here  is  a  fine  cathedral,  with  the  tombs  of  the  Polish 
kings  ;  and  a  huge  mound  made  of  earth,  erected  by 
the  people  in  honor  of  Kosciuszko.  Fares,  16;^  fi., 
12  fl.  18  kr.,  61  fl.,  to  Lemberg  (Hotel  de  France/ 
D'Angleterre),  the  capital  of  Galicia,  with  127,000 
inhab.  and  a  large  university.  Lemberg  to  Czernowit,^, 
12  fi.  64  kr.,  9  fl.  47  kr.,  4  fl.  92  kr.;  Czernowitz  to 
Roman,  fares  proportional ;  Roman  to  Buchare."*  >  56  fl, 
20kr.,42ifl.,  28  fl.  10  kr. 

Bucharest  {Hotel  Frascati),  the  capital  of  the 
kingdom  of  Rcumania,  *'  the  Paris  of  the  East,"  has 
315, UOO   inhab.,  and  is  a  semi- Oriental  town,  divided 


258  &EATZ.  —  TRIESTE. 

into  the  Yellow,  Red,  Green,  Black,  and  Blue  districts, 
or  wards.  See  the  Palace,  Theatre,  War-Office,  Uni- 
versitj,  the  Ch.  and  Monastery  of  Radu  Vod  (1572), 
the  parks,  the  equestrian  statue  of  Michael  III.,  and 
8ome  of  the  chs. 

Vienna  to  Gratz  and  Trieste. 

Leaving  Vienna  at  7  a.m.,  one  reaches  Trieste  in  14| 
hrs.  (fares,  33  fl.  82  kr.,  24  fl.  52  kr.),  crossing  the 
Semmering  Pass  by  a  wonderfully  picturesque  rly., 
with  30  tunnels  and  viaducts ;  25  M.  of  this  line  cost 
nearly  $8,000,000.  Semmering  stat.  is  2,892  ft.  above 
the  sea ;  and  here  the  rly.  passes  through  the  crowning 
ridge  by  a  tunnel  1  M.  long,  and  descends  through  the 
narrow  Styrian  valleys  by  Bruck,  where  the  rly.  to 
Venice  diverges,  and  by  a  score  of  castles^  to 

Gratz  {Elephant;  Daniel;  Sivan),  the  capital  of 
Styria  (100,000  inhab.),  a  pretty,  well-situated,  and 
growing  town,  where  many  retired  Austrian  officers 
live.  The  Castle  is  400  ft.  above  Gratz,  and  commands 
a  grand  view.  See  the  Hall  of  the  Styrian  Estates,  the 
Cathedral  (1446),  the  Imperial  Mausoleum,  and  the 
Johanneum  Palace,  with  its  library  and  picture-gallery. 

Beyond  Gratz  the  line  traverses  a  picturesque  mt. 
region,  full  of  historical  interest.  At  Steinbriick  a 
branch  diverges  to  Agram,  the  capital  of  Croatia. 
Farther  on  is  Laibach,  tlie  capital  of  Carniola,  with  a 
fine  castle  and  cathedral  ;  and  Adelsberg  {Grand 
Hotel  Adelsberg  ;  Krone),  whence  the  famous  Stalactite 
Caverns  (f  M.  W.)  may  be  visited.  The  long  zigzag 
descent  to  the  Adriatic  gives  many  splendid  views, 

TviQstQiHotel dela  Ville;  Delorme;  Aquila Neva; 
Central),  chief  Austrian  port  (150,000  inhab.),  is  an 
Italian  city  in  sentiment  and  appearance,  beautifully 


LINZ.  —  SALZBUKG.  259 

situated  on  a  fortified  harbor,  and  visited  by  14,000 
vessels  yearly,  it  has  a  venerable  cathedral,  a  sump- 
tuous Greek  ch.,  a  tall  Armenian  eh.,  a  far-viewing 
Capuchin  monastery  (with  castle  above),  a  Ghetto 
(Jews'  quarter),  many  palaces,  and  several  statues. 
The  Tergesteum  is  a  vast  commercial  building,  head- 
quarters of  the  Austrian  Lloyds.  The  Fiazzetta  di 
Ricardo  commemorates  the  imprisonment  of  Richard 
Coeur  de  Lion  here.  Beautiful  drives  on  the  St.  An- 
drea Corso,  to  Miramar,  the  palace  of  Maximilian  of 
Mexico ;  and  to  Prosecco,  of  whose  wine  Yirgil  spoke. 

Steamers  run  from  Trieste  down  the  Istrian  and 
Dalmatian  coasts  to  Zara,  Spalatro,  Ragusa,  Cattarq. 
Pola,  and  Eiume ;  and  to  the  Ionian  and  Greek  ports, 
and  Constantinople ;  also  to  Venice.     Rly.  to  Venice. 

The  Upper  Danube,  Salzburg,  etc. 

This  region  is  full  of  beauty  and  picturesqueness. 
The  descent  by  steamer  from  Linz  to  Vienna  requires 
8-9  hrs.  (7fl.,  4fl.  30_kr.);  ascent,  18-20  hrs.  The 
route  to  N.  Germany  is  bv  rly.  to  Linz  and  Munich. 
Uly.  from  Vienna  in  117  M.  (41-6  hrs.  ;  10  fl.  80  kr., 
8  fl.  10  kr.),  by  Molk,  with  its  ancient  monastery ;  and 
Enm,  strongly  fortified  with  the  ransom  paid  by  England 
for  Richard  Coeur  de  Lion,  and  3  M.  from  the.  great 
Augustinian  Abbey  of  St.  Florian  ;  to 

Iiinz  {Erzherzog  Carl ;  Qoldmr  Adler),  the  Ccipital 
of  Upper  Austria  (50,000  inhab.),  a  pretty  town,  with 
a  museum,  castle,  and  Capuchin  ch.  78|-  M.  S.  W. 
(fares,  7  fl.  13  kr.,  5  fl.  35  kr.«,  express  in  3  hrs.)  is 

Salzhnrg  (Hotel  de  I' Europe ;  D'Autriche;  Nelbock), 
one  of  the  most  beautiful  towns  in  Germany,  with  an 
Italian  beauty  in  its  flat-roofed  houses,  foantains,  and 
marble  fagades,  and  environs  of  far-famed  picturesque- 


260  THE  SALZKAMMERGUT. 

ness.  The  Palace,  Cathedral,  and  Government  build- 
iugs  are  in  the  old  quarter.  Here  is  Mozart's  birthplace, 
his  house,  his  statue,  and  a  collection  of  his  MSS. ;  also 
the  Ch.  and  Cemetery  of  St.  Peter,  and  the  Benedic- 
tine Abbey,  with  the  cellar  where  Haydn  used  to  enjoy 
his  wine.  See  the  Museum,  the  Pranciscan  Ch.,  the 
imposing  Portress  of  Hohen-Salzburg,  and  tlie  high  and 
-woodi^  M'dnchsberg ;  250  stone  steps  lead  to  tlie  monas- 
tery on  the  Capuziterberg.  The  house  of  Paracelsus  is 
near  the  river.  The  palace  of  Mirabell,  Prince  Schwart- 
zenberg's  chateau  of  Aigen,  and  the  imperial  villa  of 
Helbrunn,  are  near  by. 

Diligences  ran  3  times  daily  (9fl.  73kr.)  to  Wild- 
bad  Gastein  {Straubmger;  Oasteiner  Ilof;  Bade- 
schloss;  Austria;  Kaiserhof;  Hirsch;  Weismayr; 
G er mania) ,  whose  warm  springs  attract  thousands 
of  nervous,  gouty  and  debilitated  folk.  Beautiful 
hill-country,  abounding  in  high  waterfalls. 

"The  Salzkammergut,  or  "  Austrian  Switzerland," 
in  which  the  Government  has  great  salt-mines,  covers 
250  square  M.  between  Salzburg  and  Styria,  and  has 
the  finest  scenery  in  Germany,  sequestered  green  valleys, 
crystal  lakes,  and  far-viewing  mts.  Diligences  run 
daily  from  Salzburg  (34  M.  ;  4  fl.)  to  the  expensive 
watering-place  of  Ischl  [Kaiserin  Elisabeth;  Bauer ; 
Post ;  Victoria^,  near  the  centre  of  this  Alpine  region, 
with  splendid  villas  of  the  Emperor  and  many  nobles. 
Mud  baths  and  whey  baths  here.  >rand  excursions  in 
every  direction.  Prom  Vienna  to  Ischl,  leave  Salzburg 
line  at  Lambach,  and  go  by  branch  rly.  to  Gmunden 
(passing  near  the  Traun  Falls'),  a  quiet  little  summer- 
resort  on  the  Traun  See,  Ihe  most  beautiful  of  German 
lakes.  Thence  9  M.  by  steamer,  amid  grand  lake  and 
mt.  scenery,  to  Langbath  (diligence  to  Ischl,  12  M.). 

Between  Salzburg  and  Munich  ry.  traverses  a  pic- 
turesque mt.  region. 


MUNICH,  261 

Munich  and  the  Tyrol. 

Munich(Bay riscJie?^ Ilof;  Riissischer Ilof;  RUein-' 
ischer  Ilof;    Eiiglischer    Hof;    Vier   Jahreszeiten; 
Continental;  de  V Europe;,    (jrrunwald;    Park),  the 
capital    of    Bavaria    (550,000   inhab.),    is    on    the. 
Isar  river,  on  a  broad,  lofty  and  barren  plain.     The 
eliraate  is  variable,  and  almost  severe.     Living  is  cheap, 
and  furnished  rooms  may  be  had  reasonably  for  a  stay 
of  2-4  weeks.     The  Royal  Palace,  an  imitation  of 
the  Pitti  Palace,  contains  magnificent  frescos  from  the- 
Odyssey  and  the  Niebelungenlied,  and  from  the  lives- 
of  Charlemagne,  Barbarossa,  and  the  Hapsburgs  ;  and, 
in   the   Throne-RiOom,    Schwanthaler's   grand   statues 
of   12   Wittelsbach  princes.       In  the  adjacent  Old- 
Residence  (1600-16)  is  the  sumptuous  Royal  Chapel 
(open  Tues.,  9.30-11)  ;  also  the  Treasury  (Tues.  and 
JPri.,  9-11),  with  the  Bavarian  regalia,  the  great  blue- 
diamond,  and  the  crowns  of  Bohemia  (captured  in  1620),, 
and  of  the  Emperor  Henry  II.  and  the  Empress  Cuni. 
gunda  (1010).      The  Festsaalbau,  with  noble  portico- 
and  statues,  fronts  on  the  Hofgarten,  around  which  ruij. 
richly  frescoed  Arcades,  containing  the  Ethnographical 
Museum  and  the  Art  TJnion.     11\\q  Mof -Theatre,  adorned" 
with  many  fine  statues,  is  the  largest  in  Germany. 

To  the  east  of  the  palace  is  the  Bavarian  Military 
Museum,  with  elaborately  ornamented  cannon  in 
front.  The  Bavarian  National  3Inseum  in  the 
Prinz-Regenten  Street  contains  collections  of  great 
historical  interest  of  industrial  art,  mediaeval  Chris- 
tian art,  and  modern  art;^  textiles,  armor,  ceramics; 
old  MSS.  and  specimens^  of  early  printing. 

The  Ludwigs-Strasseruns  from  the  Hall  of  Gen- 
erals to  Gate  of  Victory,  a  triumphal  arch  erected 
by  Lewis  I.  to  the  Bavarian  army,  with  statues 
and  reliefs,  and  surmounted  by  a  bronze  Bavaria, 
in  a  chariot  drawn  by  lions.  On  and  near  this  street 
are  the  Odeon  concert-hall ;    Theatine  Ch.,  with  the 


g62  MUNICH. 

royal  tomLs  ;  the  equestrian  statue  of  Lewis  f ; ;  the 
War  Office  ;  the  Library  (10-12  daily),  —  a  Florentine 
building  with  fine  statues  and  an  imposing  stairway, 
1,000,000  vols,,  25,000  MSS.,  and  literary  curios- 
ities, —  the  Codex  Aureus,  Alaric's  breviary,  the  prayer- 
books   of    Diirer    and    Emperor    Lewis,   the    oldest 
Kiebelungenlied    MS.,   etc. ;     the    Ludwigshirche,    a 
splendid  eh.  in   Italian   stj^le,  with   Cornelius's   Last 
Judgment  and  other  frescos  ;  and  a  great  square,  witli 
statues,  bounded  by  the  Priests'  Seminary,  the  Max- 
Joseph  School  and  the  University  (1,400  students) . 
Beyond  the  Gate  of  Victory  is  the  Academy  of  Art, 
with  figures  of  Castor  and  Pollux  at  the  entrance. 
From  the   3Iax-Joseph    Platz    (on   which   are    the 
Theatre,  Royal  Palace,  Post  Office  and  Max-Joseph's 
Statue)  the  handsome  Maximilian-Strasse,  3-^  M. 
long,  runs  to  the  Isar,  by  the  Four-Seasons  Ilotei,  the 
Government  buildings,   a  long  square  with  statues 
(one  of  the  Massachusetts  Count  Rumford),  and  the 
old  National  Museum,  to  the  handsome  Maximilia- 
neum  civil-service  school,  adorned  with  frescos  and 
statuary.      The   huge    brick    Cathedral   (1468-88)  is 
118  ft.  high  inside,  and  has  towers  357  ft.  high,  and  30 
windows  72  ft.  high,  several  monuments,  and  a  captured 
Turkish  flag.     St.  MichaeVs  Ch.  has  a  noble  dome,  and 
Thorwaldsen  s    jonument  to  Eugene  Beauharnais,  vice- 
roy of  Italy       The  AllefheiligenUrche  is  a  magnificent 
Byzantine  ch.,  rich  in  colored  marbles  and  frescos  on 
gold   ground.      St.  Bo7iiface,  an    imitation  of  a  5th- 
century  basiUca,  is  a  very  beautiful  4-aisled  ch.,  with 
round  arches  supported  by  66  monolithic  columns  of 
gray  Tyrolese  marble,  gilded  roof-timbers,  royal  tombs, 
and  many  frescos  by  Hess.   The  statue  ofMaximilianI 
was  designed  by  Thorwaldsen,  and  made  of  captured 
Turkish  cannon.      Near  it  is  the  mediaeval  Wittelshach 
Palace,— The  Academy  of  Science,  in  the  old  Jesuits 
College,  has  vast  collections  of  fossils,  minerals,  coiuSu 


MUNICH.  263 

easts,  etc.  See  also  the  statues  of  Scliiller,  Gluck, 
Orlando  di  Lasso,  and  Max  Emanuel ;  the  Marian 
Column  (1638)  ;  the  Obelisk,  100  ft.  high,  of  captured 
gun-metal,  to  30,000  Bavarians  who  died  in  the  Russian 
war ;  the  ancient  and  imposing  Isar  and  Neuhauser 
Gates  ;  the  great  bronze-foundry,  with  collection  of 
mod/^ls  (daily,  1-6) ;  the  Museum  of  Schwanthaler's 
works ;  the  great  beer-gardens  (especially  the  Hof- 
Brewery)  ;  and  the  splendid  arcaded  cemetery. 

The  Old  Pinakothek  (open  daily,  except  Sat., 
19-3)  is  a  vast  Renaissance  structure,  adorned  with 
34  statues  of  famous  artists,  and  with  a  long  arcade 
frescoed  by  Cornelius  with  scenes  from  the  history  of 
mediaeval  art.  The  Museum  contains  1,400  paintings, 
including  fine  works  of  Raphael,  Correggio,  Titian, 
Holbein,  Diirer,  and  Rubens.  On  the  ground  iloor, 
300,000  engravings,  9,000  drawings,  and  cabinets  of 
Greek  and  Etruscan  vases  (catalogue,  1  mk.).  The 
Ne-w  Pinakothek  (open  free  Sun.,  Tues.,  Thurs.,  and 
Sat.,  10-12  and  2-4),  frescoed  outside  from  Kaulbach's 
designs,  contains  650  modern  paintings  (mostly  of  the 
Munich  school)  by  Kaulbach,  Overbeck,  etc.  The 
Glyptothek  (free  Mon.,  Wed.  and  Fri.,  other  days 
Imk.)  is  a  handsome  Ionic  building,  with  12  richly 
frescoed  vaulted  halls,  enshrining  Egyptian,  Greek, 
Latin,  and  modern  sculptures,  and  choice  works  of 
Canova,  Thorwaldsen,  Dannecker,  etc.  Opposite  is  the 
Corinthian  Hxhihition  Building,  where  new  Munich 
pictures  are  exhibited  and  sold  every  summer ;  and 
N.  W.  is  the  famous  Stained-Glcifis  Institution.  The 
Propylsea  Gate  in  the  Konigz-Platz  is  a  splendid 
copy  of  the  gateway  to  the  Acropolis  at  Athens,  built 
in  1863,  and  adorned  with  sculptures.  To  the  west  of 
this  gate  is  the  Schark  Gallery,  containing  excellent 
collection  of  the  works  of  modern  German  authors. 


264        OBER-AMMERGAU. — INNSBRUCK. 

The  English  Garden,  laid  out  by  Count  E-umford^ 
begins  at  the  Royal  Palace,  and  runs  N.  4  M.  You 
can  drive  through  it  to  the  Observatory,  1^  M.  1^  M. 
outside  the  Carlsthor  is  the  Hall  of  Fame,  a  Doric 
colonnade  containing  busts  of  80  national  celebrities. 
Here  stands  the  bronze  Stahie  of  Bavaria,  56  ft.  high. 
Ascend  into  its  head,  v^hence  there  is  a  fine  view.  The 
royal  chateau  and  deer-park  Nymphenburg  and  tlie 
Porcelain  factory  are  3  M.  W.  of  Munich.  The  Lake 
of  Starnberg  (15  M. ;  rly.  in  1  hr.)  12i  X  3  M.  ia 
area,  has  fine  mt.  vievt^s,  villas  of  wealthy  Munichers, 
and  several  chateaux. 

Persons  spending  a  day  in  Mnnicli  can  obtain  a  good 
mid-day  lunch  at  Schleich's,  8  Brienner-Strasse.  Operas 
at  Hof  und  National-Theatre  (prices  low),  Sun.,  Mon., 
Thurs.  and  Fri.,  except  in  July  (open,  as  usual  in  Ger- 
many, at  6.30  or  7).  Good  classical  music  on  Sun.  at  St. 
Michael's,  the  Court  church. 

To  reach  Ober-Ammergau  take  train  to  Murnau, 
\\\  M.,  whence  carriage,  passing  the  ancient  abbey  of 
Mtal  and  up  the  Ammerthal.  This  is  a  pleasant 
summer-journey  among  Bavarian  mts.  and  lakes,  and 
into  the  country  of  the  Passion  Play.    See  local  guides. 

Through  the  Tyrol  to  Italy.  —  Prom  Munich  to 
Verona,  286  M.  (20-24  hrs. ;  fares,  24  mk.  92  pf., 
18  mk.,  llmk.  91pf.  ;  to  Innsbruck,  llmk.  60pf., 
8  mk.  5  pf.,  5imk.).  The  rly.  leads  by  Rosenheim  to 
Kufstein  (^Post  Hotel),  an  ancient  fortress  command- 
ing the  Tyrolese  frontier ;  and  up  the  beautiful  valley 
of  the  Inn ;  by  busy  and  picturesque  old  Schwaz, 
among  rich  iron  and  copper  mines ;  and  Hall,  whose 
ch.  has  a  picture  by  Diirer. 

Innsbruck  {Hotel  de  V Europe;  Tirol;  Stadt 
Milnchen),  the  capital  of  the  Tyrol  (24,000  inh.),  is 
beautifully  situated  in  tiie  midst  of  mts..  6-8,000  ft 


THE  TYROL.  265 

high,  whose  peaks  seem  to  overhang  its  streets.  On 
the  wooden  bridge  which  gives  name  to  the  town, 
Hofer's  Tyrolese  riflemen  thrice  defeated  Napoleon's 
Bavarians  in  the  War  of  Independence  (1809).  Hofer, 
the  innkeeper  who  led  the  Tyrol  in  arms  against  the 
French  for  14  years,  and  was  shot  by  Napoleon  at 
Mantua,  now  lies  in  the  Silver  Chapel  of  Innsbruck's 
Franciscan  CIi.,  under  a  splendid  monument.  In  the 
same  ch.  is  the  monument  (1513-83)  of  the  Emperor 
Maximilian  I.,  a  bronze  statue  kneeling  on  a  sarcopha- 
gus, and  surrounded  by  28  royal  bronze  statues  and  24 
exquisite  historical  reliefs,  in  marble  (which  the  sac- 
ristan uncovers  and  explains).  Queen  Christina  of 
Sweden  abjured  Protestantism  in  tliis  ch.  in  1654.  See 
also  the  Palace,  built  by  Maria  Theresa  ;  the  Golden 
Roof;  the  University ;  tlie  Triumphal  Arch;  the  in- 
teresting museum  and  picture-gallery;  the  ancient 
Capuchin  Monaster^/ ;  the  wealthy  Abbey  of  Wilteni 
and  the  fine  old  castle  of  Anibras  (13th  century). 

The  rly.  ascends  the  Lill  valley,  and  crosses  tne 
Brenner  Pass,  4,588  ft.  high,  the  water-shed  between 
the  Adriatic  and  Black  Seas.  At  the  fortress  of 
'Franzensfeste  trains  stop  for  meals.  Erom  Sterzing 
the  glaciers  of  the  Stubbaythal  are  visible.  Then  comes 
semi-Italian  Brixen,  an  ancient  ecclesiastical  capital, 
with  many  chs.  and  cloisters  ;  Bozen  {Hotel  Victoria  ; 
Kaiserkrone),  frequented  by  invalids,  and  in  one  of  the 
"finest  Tyrolese  glens,  with  grand  excursions  to  Meran, 
etc. ;  mountain-girdled  Trent  {Europa'),  once  an  Etrus- 
can town,  known  to  Strabo  and  Ptolemy,  and  now 
rich  in  old  towers,  ruined  castles,  marble  palace*?,  a 
grand  13th-century  cathedral,  and  the  Ch.  of  Sta.  Maria 
Maggiore,  where  the  celebrated  Council  of  Trent  held 
its  sessions,  1545-63  ;  and  Roveredo,  on  the  Adige. 
Beyond,  the  line  runs  through  a  region  familiar  to 
Dante,  entering  Italy  beyond  Ala. 


:i66  ULM.  —  STUTTGART. 

Switzer)andv[i?ij  be  readied  directly  from  Munich,  by  rly.  to 
Lindau,  whence  boat  across  Lake  Constance  to  Romanshorn, 
and  rly.  to  Zurich  (tares,  to  Lindau,  17  mks.  70  pf.,  llf  mks., 
7  mks-  55  pf. ;  to  Zurich,  31f  mks.,  22  mks.  45  pf.).  We  rec 
ommend  the  tourist,  however,  to  go  on  from  Munich  to  Augs- 
burg and  Stuttgart,  with  a  detour  to  Nuremberg,  Baireuth, 
etc. ;  and  from  Nuremberg  or  Wiirzburg  to  Heidelberg. 

Augsburg,  Stuttgart,  Nuremberg, 
Heidelberg. 

Rly.  in  1^2  hrs.  from  Munich  to  Augsburg  {Bai' 

erischerhof;  Kaiserhof:  Drei  Mohreri,  a  very  ancient 
hotel,  in  which  Charles  V.  was  entertained),  once, 
a  free  imperial  town  of  vast  wealtli,  and  the  centre  or 
trade  between  Germany  and  the  Levant,  now  has  76,000 
iiihab.      There    remain   many  picturesque  old  houses, 
frescoed    outside ;    the    ancient   Falace  in  which  the 
Augsburg  Confession  was  given  ;  the  venerable  chs.  of 
St.  Anna  and  St.  Ulrich ;    the   Rathhaus   (1616-20), 
with  its  Golden  Hall ;  the  rambling  Gothic  Cathedral 
(995),  with  handsome  cloisters  ;  and  the  frescoed  Ftig- 
gerhaus,  the  home  of  the  richest  merchants  of  16th- 
century  Europe.     See  also  the  fountains,  the  Arsenal, 
the  Museum,  and  the  gallery  of  Suabian  pictures. 
It  is  3-3  hrs.  (6  fl.  80  kr.,  4  fl.  55  kr.,  2  fl.  90  kr.)  to 
Ulra  {Hotel  BaJiJiliof,  Jlunste?',    Goldener  Loive, 
Baumstark),  a  fortress  of  Wiirtemburg  (37,000  inh;), 
on  the  Danube.     The  Gothic  Cathedral  (1377)  has  im- 
mense organ,  finely  carved  oaken  stalls,  and  a  nave 
137  ft.  high.    Grand  view  of  the  Alps  from  the  tower 
(528  ft.  high),     Rly.  to  Lake  Constance  in  4-5  hrs. 
Rly.  from  Ulm  across  Wtirtemberg  (2^-4  hrs.)  to 
StnttgB.rt(Margum^df;  Royal;  Silher;  Dierlamm) 
capital  of  Wiirtemburg  (250,000  inhab.),  beautifully 


CANNSTADT.  —  NUREMBERG.  267 

(Situated  among  the  lulls  and  vineyards,  and  the  home 
of  a  large  Anglo-American  colony.  The  l^'dnigsbau 
(Royal  Palace)  has  an  Ionic  colonnade  and  Corinthian 
porticos.  Opposite,  across  the  Schloss-Platz,  is  the 
new  Palace  (1746-1807),  containing  very  fnie  sculp- 
tures (open  daily,  9-6).  Near  by  are  the  Theatre  and 
the  Old  Palace  (1553-70) ;  also  the  Stiftsklrche 
(1436-95),  with  statues  of  11  Counts  of  Wiirtemberg; 
Thorwaldsen's  statue  of  Scliiiler ;  and  various  na- 
tional buildings.  The  Royal  Library  (open  daily,  ex- 
cept Sat.  and' Sun.)  contains  500,000  vols,  and  3,800 
MSS. ;  and  the  Museum,  of  Art  (open  daily  except 
Men.)  lias  a  collection  of  pictures  and  statuary.  The 
Kbiiigs-Strasse  and  Neckar-Strasse  are  the  chief  streets. 
There  are  small  but  interesting  museums,  and  good 
schools.  Charming  views  from  the  Hasenberg, 
Uhlandshoiie,  and  Schillershohe.  Visit  Stadt-Q-arten. 
The  Anlagen  park,  decorated  with  statues,  extends 
over  2 M.,  to  Ca.nnata.dt  {Vier  Jahreszeiten ;  Bahiu 
hqf;  Bar),  on  the  Neckar,  with  warm  saline  and  cha- 
lybeate springs,  much  frequented  by  invalids.  See 
the  Royal  Villa,  the  Rosenstein,  and  other  villas  on 
the  heights  ;  also  the  Kursaal  and  the  Wilhelma. 
The  grave  of  Freiligrath  is  here.  There  are  several 
other  notable  excursions  to  be  made  from  Stuttgart. 

From  xiugsburg  (fares,  12  mks.  60  pf.,  9  mks.,  5f 
mks.),  or  from  Stuttgart,  via  Grailsheim  and  Ansbach 
C19  mks.  70  kr.,  13  mks.  85  kr.),  go  to 

Nuremberg  {Wiifelsbach ;  Victoria;  Goldener 
Adler ;  Wurtembergerhof ;  Grand),  a  delightful 
old  town  (140,000  inhabitants),  famous  for  its 
quaint  media3val  houses,  oriel  windows,  and  toy 
factories,  and  the  centre  of  trade  between  North 
and  South  Germany.  At  one  time  there  flourished 
here  Veit  Stoss,  Vischer,  and  Kraft't,  the  carvers;  the 
teacher  and  disciples  of  Albert  Diirer,  and  the  great 


268  NUREMBERG. 

master   liimself;    and  Hans   Sachs,  tlie   eobbler-poee. 
The  two  latter  ai'e  buried  in  St.  John's  Cemetery ;  their 
houses  are  religiously  kept ;  E.auch's  statue  of  Durer 
stands  in  the  Milk  Market,  and  Hans  Sachs's  monu- 
ment is   in  the  Spital-Platz.      The  lofty  wall   which 
-encircles  Nuremberg  has  75  towers  of  masonry,  the  4 
largest  of  which  were  built  by  linger.     Take  a  walk 
around   these   walls,   and  also  note  the  sin^idar  old 
bridges  over  the  Pegnitz.     Peter  Vischer  is  buried  at 
<6V.  Rochus,  and  his  house  is  preserved.     The  finest  ch. 
is  St.  Lawrence,  a  red-sandstone  structure  (1287-1477), 
with  a  splendid  W.  portal  and  rose-window,   Krafft's 
wonderful  ciborium,  66ft.  high,  and  Veit  Stoss's  wood 
carvings.    See  fountains  .outside.    In  the  Goose  Mar- 
ket is  the  ancient  bronze  fountain- figure  of  the  Little 
Goose  Man.    The  Frauenkirche  has  splendid  fagade, 
and  rich  old  glass  and  works  of  art  inside.     Opposite 
is  a  tall  Gothic  column  (1385-96),  surrounded  with 
statues  of  heroes.    Si.  Sebaldus,  a  13th-century  Gothic 
basijica,   contains  rare  old  paintings,  and-  the  famous 
Shrine  of  St.  Sebaldus,  "the  most  exquisite  gem  of 
German  art,"  whose  multitude  of  statues  and  carvings 
were  made  by  Yischer  and  his  sons  (1506-19)      Op- 
posite is  St.  Maurice,  now  a  gallery  containing  many 
old   German   paintings.      St.  Egiduis  (1140)  has  an 
altar-piece  by  Van  Dyck.     The  Germanic  Museum,  in 
an  old  Carthusian  convent  (beautiful  cloisters),  has  a 
fresco    by  Kaulbach,   and  many  mediaeval   rehcs    and 
pictures.     In  the  old  Dominican  convent  is  the  Maxi- 
milian  collection  of  mediaeval    antiquities;    also,    the 
Town  Library  (open  daily,  9-12,  3-6),  with  70,000 
vols,  and  2,000  MSS.     The  Burg  is  a  Gothic  castle 
on  a  rock  to  the  N.,  built  in  10:^4,  and  enlarged  by 
Barbarossa  in  1158,  destroyed  in  1420,  and  now  par- 
tially restored.    It  is  rich  in  ponderous  towers,  quaint 
chapels  and  anti(^ue  halls.     In  main  tower  (adm.  20 


RATISBON.  -  WALHALLA.  ~  KELHEIM.     269 

pf.)  is  a  torture  chamber,  the  chief  instrument  in 
which  is  an  "Iron  Virgin."  Beautiful  view  from  here 
over  town  and  country.  The  Rathhaus  contains 
many  pictures.  See  also  the  new  law-courts  and  the 
Sclione  Brun7ien. 

Ratisbon  (Maximilian;  Oruner  Kranz;  National; 
Kar7nelite7ibrau), called  in  German  Regejisburg,  a  very 
ancient  free  town,  where  the  Imperial  Diet  was  held 
from  1663  to  lb08,  is  now  Bavarian.  There  are  many 
mediaeval  houses,  with  armorial  bearings  still  upon 
them,  and  with  towers  of  defence  (especially  in  Ambas- 
sadors'-St.).  The  Cathedral  (1275)  has  a  rich  fa9ade 
and  porch,  lofty  towers,  and  a  very  symmetrical  nave, 
129  ft.  high;  also,  fine  monuments  by  Canova  and 
Vischer,  an  altar  of  silver,  and  cloisters.  The  12th- 
century  Benedictine  Ch.  of  St.  James  has  strange  old 
sculptures ;  and  the  Benedictine  Monastery  of  St.  Em- 
meran,  founded  in  652,  and  enriched  by  Charlemagne, 
has  since  1813  been  the  palace  of  the  Princes  of  Thurn 
and  Taxis.  The  14th-century  Rathhaus  contains  many 
implements  of  torture. 

7  M.  distant  (steamboat  or  tramway),  on  a  hill 
over  the  Danube,  is  the  Walhalla,  built  1830-42  (at 
a  cost  of  $3,400,000)  by  King  Lewis  as  a  Temple  of 
Eame.  It  resembles  the  Athenian  Parthenon,  and  is 
of  huge  granite  blocks,  surrounded  with  52  Doric 
columns,  and  adorned  in  the  pedirients  with  Schwan- 
thaler's  sculptures  of  the  Battles  of  Leipsic  and  Armin- 
ius.  The  roof  is  of  iron  and  copper.  The  interior 
hall,  180  X  50  ft.,  decorated  with  friezes,  contains 
6  Victory  statues  by  E,auch,and  101  busts  of  illustrious 
Germans.     View  of  Bavarian  Forest  and  Alps. 

Kelheim,  up  the  Danube,  has  the  huge  ciioulai 
Hall  of  Liberation,  built  by  King  Lewis,  1842-63,  to 
commemorate  the  Battle  of  Leipsic.     It  i3  lined  with 


270  BAMBERG.  -  BAIREUTH,  -  HEIDELBERG. 

marble,  and  contains  84  Victory  statues,  of  Carrara 
marble;  while  outside  are  18  colossal  statues. 
^'W-ax7.'bvLY^{Uussischer  Hof)  has  a  vast  Royal  Palace, 
di  Cathedral  (1189-1240),  the  Neumiiuster  Cb.  (with 
tomb  of  Walther  von  der  Vogelweide),  the  handsome 
Mariencapelle,  and  a  university.  Kly.  (7  niks.  60  kr., 
5  mks.  5  Icr.,  3  mks.  20  kr.)  to  Baireuth,  by 

IBainhevg  (Bambei^ger  Hbf),a,  hill-town,  with  a  splen. 
did  12th-century  Romanesque  Cathedral,  rich  in  monu- 
ments and  rehcs.  The  Lijceum  contains  2,600  MSS. 
In  \)(\e,Falace,  Napoleon  1.  declared  war  against  Prussia 
The  rly.  runs  around  the  Pranconian  Switzerland  to 

Baireuth  {Reichsadler ;  Sonne;  Anker),  the  seat 
of  "Wagner's  great  theatre,  and  of  an  old  opera  house. 
Jean  Paul  Ricliter's  house,  statue,  and  tomb  are  here. 
Se€  Wagner's  house  and  grave,  the  Palaces,  the 
war  monument  of  1870-71,  and  the  ducal  chateaux  of 
the  Eremitage  and  the  Fantaisle  (each  3  M.  out).  Ex- 
cursions into  the  Fichtelgebirge. 

Prom  Wiirzburg  it  is  5-7  hrs.  (fares,  12  mks.  80  pf., 
8-|  raks.,  5  mks.  45  pf.)  to 

Heidelberg  {Hotel  de  V Europe  ;  Grand;  Schrieder ; 
Victoria,  near  stat.  In  town,  Prinz  Carl ;  Perkeo  ; 
Adler.  On  hill,  Schlossa,nd  Bellevue),  renowned  for 
its  history,  its  learned  University,  and  its  beautiful 
situation,  where  the  mo  untainous  Neckar  valley  enters 
the  great  Rhine  plain.  The  University  (founded  1386) 
has  valuable  museums,  and  a  library  of  400,000 
vols.  The  buildings  are  homely.  The  Gasile,  380 
ft.  above  the  Neckar,  was  founded  in  1195  and 
added  to  by  subsequent  electors  and  kings.  In 
1689  the  French  Gen.  Melac,  forced  to  retreat 
thence,  burned  and  blew  up  the  castle  ;  and  the 
destruction  was  completed  by  lightning  in  1764. 
.  It  is  the  grandest  ruin  in  Germany.  See  the  splendid 
Renaissance  Otto-IIeinrichs  building  (1556) ;  Erie- 


SPIRES.  —  WORMS.  271 

iri^hs  building  (1601),  rich  in  statues,  and  containing 
the  great  Tun  (dtO,000  gallons)  ;  and  other  palaces, 
towers,  and  gardens.  From  the  Kouigsstuhl,  905  ft. 
above  the  castle  (1  hr.  by  road),  grand  view  of  the 
Rhine  and  Neckar  valleys,  the  Black  Eorest,  Taunus, 
and  Odenwald,  and  out  to  Strasbourg  Cathedral. 

Spires,  Worms,   Baden,    Strasbourg. 

It  is  a  short  ride,  down  the  Neckar  valley,  to 

Mannheim  {Deutscher  Hof;  Pfdlzer  Hof;  Lehn), 
a  town  of  165,000  mhab. ,  on  the  Rhine, very  regularly 
laid  out,  and  adorned  with  a  great  palace  and  picture- 
gallery  and  several  statues.  Eine  rly.-bridge  across 
the  Rhine,  to  Ludioigshaven.    1  hr.  by  rly.  to  the  S.  is 

Spires  {Rhehmcher  Rof ;  Wittelshacher  Hof),  the 
capital  of  the  Bavarian  Palatinate  (19,000  inhab.). 
The  vast  and  imposing  Romanesque  Cathedral  (open 
9-11,  2-6)  was  founded  in  1030,  and  in  1146  St. 
Bernhard  preached  the  Crusade  in  it.  9  German  em- 
perors and  3  empresses  were  buried  here.  See  new 
faQade  and  Emperor's  Hall;  the  magnificent  modern 
frescos;  and  the  imperial  statues  by  Schwanthaler. 
A  handsome  Memorial  Church  has  recently  been 
erected  here  to  commemorate  the  protests  uttered 
against  the  decree  of  the  diet  of  Speyer  in  1529, 
whence  came  the  designation  "  Protestant." 

Worms  {Alter  Kaiser;  Martmann),  f  hr.  N.  of 
Ludwigshaven,  successively  capital  of  Burgundian  and 
Pranconian  kings,  and  of  Charlemagne,  is  now  a  de- 
cadent Hessian  town.  The  splendid  Romanesque  Ca- 
thedral (1110)  has  4  towers  and  2  domes,  and  a  stately 
interior,  357  ft.  long.  On  the  square  occurred  events 
sung  of  in  the  Niebelungenlied ;  and  on  one  side  is  the 
Renaissance  HeiVsche  Ham,  on  the  site  of  the  palace 
where  Luther  defended  his  doctrines  before  Charles  V, 


^  72     DARMSTADT.  —  CARLSRUHE.  —  BADEN. 

iand  the  Diet  of  Worms  (1521).  Luther  s  Monument 
(built  1859-68)  consists  of  his  colossal  statue,  around 
and  below  which  are  statues  of  6  Reformers,  2  Protes- 
tant princes,  and  3  German  cities.    It  is  a  grand  work. 

Darmstadt  {Traube ;  Britannia)^  the  hand- 
some capital  of  Hesse  (64,000  inhab.),  has  in  its  Palace 
a  library  of  600,000  vols.,  and  a  noble  gallery  of  700 
paintings  (open  daily).  In  the  palace  on  Anna-Strasse 
is  the  celebrated  Meyer  Madonna,  by  Holbein  (1  mk,). 

From  Heidelberg,2  hrs.  (5rnks.  5pf. ,  3mi?s.  60pf .)  to 

Carlsruhe  (Griiiier  Mof;  Hotel  Grosse),  the  capital 
of  Baden  (90,000  inhab.),  with  handsome  modern 
buildings,  squares,  and  monuments.  The  streets 
radiate  like  fan-sticks  from  the  handsome  Palace 
and  park.  The  Romanesque  Hall  of  Art  contains 
6-70()  pictures,  and  other  collections.  From  hand- 
some rly.  Stat,  1  hr.  (3  mks.  4G  pf.,  2  mks.  35  pf.-. 
change  cars  at  Oos)  to 

Baden-Baden  (F^c^6>?'^a;  Badischer;  Englischerj; 
Messmer;  Darmstadt),  in  a  glen  amid  the  foothills  of 
the  Black  Porest,  40,000  foreigners  come  here  yearly, 
to  indulge  in  fashionable  lounging,  to  enjoy  the  mild 
climate  and  beautiful  environs,  and  to  drink  the  min- 
eral waters.  Vast  and  magnificent  Trink-Halle,  Con- 
Tersation-House,  and  Bath-House.  The  lofty  New 
-Castle  (1  mk.),  built  1479-1519,  is  the  summer  home 
of  the  Grand  Duke.  Band  music  in  the  town  several 
times  daily.  Good  theatre.  Prices  at  Baden  generally 
,high.  Excursions  thence  into  the  Black  Forest. 
Rly.  S.  to  Kehl,  where  the  Rhine  is  crossed  to 

Strasbourg  {Maison  Rouge ;  Hotel  de  la  Ville  de 
{Paris;  Pfeijfer;  National),  the  capital  of  Al- 
sace-Lorraine (140,000  inh.),  terribly  bombarded  in 
the  war  of  1870-71.  The  grand  Cathedral,  built  1015- 
.1439,  has  magnificent  f aQade  by  Erwin  von  Steinbach 


STRASBOUBG.  —  FREIBUEG.  273 

(1318),  and  a  spire  465  ft.  high  (ascent,  l|mk.)^ 
whence  an  exteubive  view  is  gained,  even  to  the 
Jura  Mts.  The  interior,  323  ft.  long  and  99  ft. 
high,  with  its  15th-century  stained  windows,  slender 
and  riclily  carved  pillars,  and  Erwin's  tomb  and 
pillar,  is  impressive.  The  celebrated  Astronomical 
Clock  is  in  the  S.  transept.  The  bombardment  of 
1870,  which  destroyed  the  Library,  Theatre,  Picture 
Gallery,  etc.,  spared  the  Cathedral.  The  new  UnU 
versity,  now  specially  favored  by  Germany,  is  at  the 
Fischer  Gate.  The  new  Library  already  has  800,- 
000  vols.  In  8t,  Thomas  Gh.  (10  pf.)  is  a  vast  marble 
monument  to  Marshal  Saxe,  which  it  took  20  years 
to  make.  In  the  Place  Gutenberg  is  a  statue  of  Gut- 
enberg. The  New  Temple  has  been  rebuilt  magnifi- 
cently.  Many  statues  on  the  squares.  Strasbourg 
is  an  important  strategic  point,  and  vast  fortifica- 
tions have  recently  been  erected  by  the  Germans. 

From  Strasbourg  go  to  Basle  (fares,  11|-  mks.,  7 
mks.  68  pf.,  4  mks.  90  pf.)  along  the  Black  Forest. 

Freiburg  {Zahrincier ;  Victoria ;  Europe)  is  a 
pretty  forest-town  of  54,000  inhab.,  and  the  capital 
of  the  Breisgau.  It  has  suffered  much  in  many 
wars.  The  Cathedral  is  a  symmetrical  red-sandstone 
Gothic  ch.  (1122-1236),  with  a  remarkable  tower,  397 
ft.  high ;  a  rich  portal,  with  statuary ;  and  an  inte- 
rior (342ft.  X  102ft.  and  85ft.  high)  li.L^lited  frcm  five 
stained  windows,  and  containing  many  old  monu- 
ments, paintings,  etc.  (best  time  to  visit,  10.30-12 ; 
fee  at  choir,  50  pf. ;  to  tower,  60  pf .).  The  Eavfhaus^- 
on  the  S.,  is  a  handsome  15th-century  building. 
The  new  Victory  Monument  chiefly  honors  Gen.  von 
Werder.  See  the  quaint  fountains,  the  streams  of 
pure  water  in  the  streets,  and  the  pretty  pebble  pave- 
ments. Climb  the  8chlossherg.  Grand  view  over 
Black  Forest,  Vosges,  and  Rhineland. 

From  Freib-jrg  to  Basle,  2  hrs. ;  5|  mks. ,  4  mkjw 


274  BASLE. 


SWITZERLAND. 


IT'O^  direct  routes  from  Paris,  see  page  199.  Swiss 
"'■  money  is  in  francs,  like  French.  The  Swiss 
season  is  Aug.  in  the  high  Alps,  July  15  to  Sept.  15 
elsewhere.  Return  and  excursion  tickets  on  all  Swiss 
rlys.  Pensions  (large  summer  boarding-houses)  at 
all  chief  resorts,  $.80-$2.00  a  day. 

Basle  J  Zurich!,  Lake  Constance. 

Basle  (Trois  Hois;  Metropole;  Bauer;  SchweizeV' 
Jiof;  Victoria;  Euler),  a  town  of  125,000  inhab.,  on 
Rhine,  has  rlys.  in  every  direction.  There  are  many 
handsome  streets,  and  pleasant  parks  and  promenades. 
The  Cathedral,  built  by  Henry  II.  in  1010-19,  and  re^ 
stored  after  destructions  by  fire  and  earthquake,  is  an 
imposing  Gothic  building  of  red  sandstone,  no\> 
Protestant  (Wed.,  2-4,  free ;  other  times  ^fr.)  Ancient 
statuary  on  facades;  2  lofty  towers,  built  in  1500.  Ii. 
rich  and  beautiful  interior  see  the  roodloft  (1381) 
stained  windows;  Chapel  of  St.  Nicholas;  font  (1465): 
pulpit  (1486);  tombs  of  Erasmus  and  of  Empress 
Anna;  sculptures  on  N.  portal  and  around  choir. 
Very  fine  cloisters  (1362-1487),  leading  to  the  Pfalz 
terrace,  Historical  Museum  (Sun.  and  Wed.  free; 
closed  on  Monday;  other  days  ^  fr.)  has  fragments 
of  the  15th  century  fresco  of  The  Dance  of  Death. 

The  Museum  (ifr. ;  Sun„  and  Wed.  free),  has  many 
historic  and  scientific  curiosities,  and  the  largest  Swiss 
picture-gallery,  including  many  choice  Holbeins  (The 
Passion,  etc.)  and  works  of  modern  Germans.  Also 
University  Library  (200,000  vols.)  and  a  great  hall. 
The  Mission  Mouse^  for  education  of  missionaries,  is 


SCHAFFHAUSEN.  275 

one  of  the  powerful  local  theological  influences,  and 
has  an  interesting  museum  (open  daily).  See  the  Town 
Hall  (1508);  the  Spahlen  Gate  (1400);  the  quaint 
fountains;  and  St.  Elizabeth'' s  Church,  with  view 
from  tower. 

Basle  to  Lucerne,  direct,  55J  M. ;  fares,  9  fr.  40  c, 
6  fr.  60c.,  4  fr.  40c.  It  is  better,  however,  to  go  via 
the  Falls  of  the  Rhine  and  Lake  Constance,  bv  rly.  up 
the  Rhine.  From  Basle  it  is  59  M.  (9^  fr.,  6  fr.  30  c, 
4  fr.  5c.)  to 

Schaffhausen  {National ;  3Iuller ;  Riese)  a  pic- 
turesque town,  with  quaint,  old  frescoed  houses;  a 
wall  with  6  gates,  and  old  towers;  a  massive  castle 
(1564);  and  a  Romanesque  Cathedral  (1101).  The  bell 
inscribed  Vivos  voco,  mortuosplango,  fulgurafrango, 
cast  in  1486,  is  in  room  near  cloisters.  The  Falls  of 
the  Rhine  may  be  visited  hence  (carriage,  2  fr.  40  c., 
or  tram) .  They  are  near  Neuhausen  stat.  (Schweizer- 
hof,  with  view  of  Alps  and  Falls;  Bellevue).  Here 
the  Rhine,  380-400  H.  wide,  descends  100  ft.,  in 
rapids,  whirlpools  and  3  falls,  over  limestone  ledges. 
It  is  the  largest  fall  in  Europe,  and  should  be  seen 
by  moonlight,  or  under  its  morning  or  late-afternoon 
rainbows.  You  may  ascend  the  rock  which  divides 
the  falls  (3  fr.);  or  view  them  from  Laufen  castle 
(1  fr.),  the  best  point,  where  the  Fischetz  platform 
should  be  visited.  The  falls  are  illuminated  summer 
I  evenings  by  colored  lights,  for  which  a  small  charge 
•  is  made  in  the  hotel  bill. 

I  Constance  {Insel ;  Ilechf),  a  decadent  town  of 
I  21,000  inhab.  The  Cathedral  (1502)  has  notable 
1  stained  glass,  bas-reliefs,  cloisters,  choir-stalls,  and 
I  the  stone  on  which  John  Huss  is  reported  to  have 
i  stood  when  sentenced.  W.  of  the  town  is  a  stone 
I  marking  where  Huss  and  Jerome  of  Prague  were 
burned  alive  (1415-16).  In/  the  frescoed  Kaufhans 
(1^  fr.)  the  Council  of  Constance  met  (1414-18).     Se^ 


276  ZURICH. 

Town  Hall  (1593),  St.  Stephen's  Ch.,  and  former 
Dominican  monastery,  on  an  island,  now  converted 
into  the  Insel  Hotel;  with  Romanesque  cloisters. 

Zurich  {Hotel  JBaur  au  Lac;  Bellevue ;  National)., 
on  the  swift  green  river  Limmat,  at  the  foot  of  the 
beautiful  Lake  Ziirich.  Remarkable  view  (espe- 
cially by  moonlight)  fi'om  bridge,  of  villages,  villas, 
embowered  spires,  and  distant  Alps.  Ziirich  is 
famous  for  learned  schools,  beautiful  environs, 
and  conclaves  of  political  exiles.  See  the  Ro- 
manesque Cathedral  (12th  century),  with  fine 
cloisters  and  statue  of  Charlemagne;  Town  Hall; 
the  handsome  Quai-Bruclce  {\^'$)'^);  Holie  Promenade, 
with  fine  view ;  Library,  with  rare  MSS. ;  Polytech-^ 
nic  School,  splendid  view  from  terrace;  Art  Building, 
St.  Augustijies  Ch.;  St.  Peters  Ch.,  where  Lavater 
preached  23  years ;  Arsenal,  with  Tell's  bow,  Zwing- 
lius's  battle-axe,  etc. ;  and  Botanic  Gardens,  with  ; 
busts  of  de  Candolle  and  other  botanists. 

In  the  Platz  Promenade,  in  the  triangle  between 
the  Sihl  and  Limmat  rivers,  is  the  Swiss  National 
Museum  (open  daily  ex.  Mon. ;  free  in  afternoon,  1 
fr.  in  morning).  This  contains  a  miscellaneous  col- 
lection of  objects  illustrating  Swiss  history,  art,  and 
industrial  progress;  the  collection  of  stained  glass  is 
particularly  fine.  The  Tonhalle,  on  the  lake  w.  of 
the  Quai-Briicke,  has  good  restaurant;  concert  here 
every  evening. 

Lake  Constance  (in  German  the  Boden-See,  in 
Latin  Lacus  Brigantiims)  is  very  pretty  in  summer, 
but  has  not  the  beauty  of  the  other  Swiss  lakes.  It  is 
42x8  M.  in  area,  and  156^  M.  around;  very  deep; 
with  green  water,  abounding  in  trout ;  flat,  or  undu- 
la.ting  shores ;  and  distant  views  of  the  Alps  of  Yorarl- 
berg  and  Appenzell.  In  4  centuries  it  has  frozen  over 
but  1 5  times.  It  lies  between  Baden,  Austria,  Bavaria, 
Y/iirtemberg,  and  Switzerland.  There  is  an  immense 
traffic  between  the  lake-ports, 


THE   SPLUGEN  PASS.  277 

The  Uetliberg,  2,864  ft.  high,  6  M.  S.  W.  of  Zil- 
rich,  is  ascended  by  a  rly.  with  a  gradient  in  some 
places  of  7  in  100  ft.  (3  fr.  50  c,  2  fr. ;  return  tickets, 
5  fr.,  3  f r.).  Tlie  view  includes  Zurich  and  its  lake,  the 
Linimat  Yalley,  the  Alps  from  the  Sentis  to  the  Jung- 
frau,  the  Righi,  Pilatus,  the  Juras,  Yosges,  and  Black- 
Forest  peaks.     Magnificent  views  from  road  up. 

The  Splligen  Pass. 

Ziirich  (or  Rohrschacli)  is  a  good  point  from  which 
to  visit  the  Spliigen  Pass.  Very  pleasant  trip  to  its 
summit,  although  it  is  not  the  best  route  into  Italv. 
Go  i)y  steamer  (be  careful  to  start  from  the  right  pier; 
2-2 1  hrs.  ;  fares,  2  fr.  20  c,  1  fr.  40  c.)  up  the  lovely 
Lake  of  Ziirich,  25^  X  2^  M.  in  area,  with  transpar- 
ent bluish-green  water  rellecting  the  chain  of  happy 
shore-villages  and  the  snowy  Alps  of  Schwyz  and  Gla- 
rus,  to  Rappersch-wyl  {flofel  du  Lac  ;  Schvcm),  which 
has  the  Lindenhof,  Capuchin  monastery,  deer-park, 
and  ancient  castle,  containing  the  Polish  National  Mm- 
seum.  Kly.  from  Ziirich  to  Kapperschwyl,  22-|-  M. ; 
fares,  4  fr.  70  c,  2  fr,  20  c. ;  to  Coire,  4-5  hrs. ;  fares, 
12  fr.  30  c,  8  fr.  90  c.  The  rly.  follows  Lake  Ziirich 
from  Rapperschwyl  to  Schmerikon  ;  ascends  the  Linth 
^valley :  runs  along  the  shore  of  the  magnificent  Lake 
of  Wallenstadt  for  12  M. ;  enters  upper  Rhine  val- 
ley ;  and  runs  S.,  through  grand  scenery,  to 

Ragatz  {QuellenJiof  and  Ragafz,  both  united  with 
the  Casino;  Schiveizerliof;  Tamina;  Bristol)  favorite 
summer-resort  at  the  mouth  of  the  wonderful  Tamina 
gorge,  2^  M.  up  which  are  the  hot  saline  baths  of  Tfdffers^ 
amid  very  impressive  rocky  scenery,  and  cliffs  6-700  ft. 
high.  A  cable  tramcar  runs  to  the  springs  every  \  hr.,,  \ 
round  trip  If r.  30c.  These  waters  have  been  prized  for 


278  COIRE. 

800  years.  They  are  conducted  to  the  baths  at  Ragat>; 
The  philosopher  Schelling  is  buried  at  Ragatz. 

The  rly.  ascends  the  Rhine  valley,  by  the  4th 
century  Roman  tower  of  Mayenfeld,  and  many  pretty 
villages,  vineyards,  and  castles,  to 

Coire  (SteinhocJc;  Lukmamer),  the  capital  of  the 
Canton  of  the  Grisons  (12,000  inhab.),  surrounded 
with  picturesque  walls  and  Roman  towers,  and  nest- 
ling under  the  Ilittetiberg.  The  Cathedral {\2ih.  c&n.- 
tury)  contains  a  fine  High  Altar  of  carved  wood, 
dating  from  1490,  and  rare  Roman  antiquities.  The 
EpiscoiJal  Palace  is  very  ancient  (bishopric  founded 
in  4th  century).  Grand  views  from  the  Rosenhiigel 
and  other  hills. 

The  Splugen  Pass  is  reached  twice  daily  by  rly. 
from  Coire  to  Thusis  (1  hr. ;  17  M. ;  5  f  r.  60  c,  4  fr. 
20  c),  thence  by  diligence  (4  hrs. ;  16  M. ;  6  fr,  65  c. ; 
cou2Je,  7  f  r.  90  c).  Thusis  ( Via  Mala;.  Post  HotM) 
is  a  centre  of  grand  excursions.  Many  tourists 
walk  from  here  up  through  the  Via  Mala,  a 
tremendous  gorge  between  calcareous  cliffs  1,600 
feet  high,  with  the  Rhine  roaring  heavily  below. 
Thousands  of  lives  have  been  lost  by  avalanches  and 
land-slips  in  this  "  Bad  Way."  The  safe  ne^v  road,  w^ith 
its  tunnels  and  bridges,  was  built  in  1822.  A  stone 
dropped  from  Second  Bridge  (247  ft.  high  ;  here  the 
scenery  is  grandest)  makes  a  noise  liie  a  camion. 

The  verdant  farms  of  the  Valley  of  Schams  open  out 
above  ;  and  the  road  passes  Zillis,  with  its  venerable 
ch.  ;  Andeer,  an  old  Romansch  village ;  traverses  the 
wild  Roffna  Ravine,  3  M.  long,  by  the  Rhine  cascades ; 
comes  into  view  of  the  Einshorn  and  Pizzo  Uccello 
peaks ;  and  reaches  Splxigen  {Hotel  Bodenhaus), 
where  the  diligences  all  stop  for  dinner. 

Diligences  twice  daily  from  Splilgen  to  Chiavenna 
<10 fr.,  cou:pe  12  fr.) ;  rly.  thence  to  Colico  (3  fr., 2J  fr.. 


BERNARDINO  PASS.  279 

1^  fr.  It  is  about  7  M.  from  Spliigen  to  the  top  of 
the  pass,  6,945  ft.  high,  the  Italian  frontier  line,  with 
jSuretfaJiorner  (9,925  ft.)  on  one  side,  and  Schnee- 
liorn(10,14S>  ft.;  Milan  and  Suabia  are  visible  from 
it)  on  the  other.  The  road  descends  by  leagues  of 
zigzags  and  galleries,  ravines  and  cascades,  to  the 
vineyards  and  chestnut  fields  of  Chiavenna  {Con- 
radi),  with  its  ruined  castle  and  fine  old  ch. ;  thence 
rly.  down  a  mountain-girdled  valley  by  liiva  to 
Colico,  on  Lake  Como. 

By  the  Bernardino  Pass,  diligences  run  daily  to 
Mesocco  (lOfr.  25),  thence  by  electric  ry,  to  Bellin- 
zona  (5f.5.)  The  road  ascends  the  desolate  Rheinwald 
valley  8-9  M.  to  the  top  of  the  pass  (6,768  ft.  high), 
surrounded  by  Alps  and  glaciers  ;  and  thence  de- 
scends by  long  zigzags,  to  Sail  Beimardino, 
Mesocco,  Cama,  Roveredo  and  other  charming 
Italian-Swiss  villages,  amid  very  grand  scenery. 
From  Bellinzona,  riy.  14  M.  to  Locarno  (f  hr. ;  2  fr. 
80  c,  1  fr.  60  c,  1  fr.  15  c),  whence  rly.  to  Lake 
Como  and  Mihan. 

The  Engadine  is  a  dry,  cold,  and  silent  valley, 
3,300  to  5,800  ft.  high,  57  M.  long,  and  1  M.  wide, 
between  the  Engadine  and  Bernina  Alps  and  glaciers. 
It  is  divided  into  the  Upper  Engadine  and  the  Lower 
Engadine;  the  former  extends  24  M.  from  the 
Malaja  Pass  to  Punt  Ota,  a  bridge  crossing  a  sm.all 
brook  emptymg  into  the  Inn  River ;  the  latter,  about 
33  M.  long,  extends  from  Punt  Ota  to  Martinsbruck 
on  the  Tyrolese  frontier.  The  Upper  Engadine,  near 
St.  Moritz,  is  much  frequented,  especially  by  English 
and  Americans,  and  for  those  who  need  a  cool,  bracing 
air  it  is  a  wonderful  health  resort,  being  particularly 
adapted  to  the  outdoor  treatment  of  consumption. 

From  Coire  the  Albiila  railway  (59i  M. ;  4  hrs. ; 
23  fr.  25,  15  fr.  50)  runs  through  picturesque  moun- 
tain scenery,  over  numerous  viaducts,  and  through 
41  tunnels,  one  of  them  4|  M.  in  length,  to 


380  PONTRESINA  -  LUCERNE 

St,  Moritz  {Kulm;  Belvedere ;  Palace;  Grand; 
Schiveizerhof) ,  the  highest  settlement  in  the  valley 
(6,000  ft.),  a  village  of  2,000  inhabitants.  Here  is 
buried  the  founder  of  the  Children's  Aid  Society  of 
NewYork,  Mr.  Charles  Loring^Brace.  There  are  grand 
mountain  views  from  several'  points  in  the  village. 
Three  miles  distant  (electric  tram,  fare  20c.)  are  the 

Baths  of  St.  Moritz  {Neues  StaMhad;  Victoria; 
Bellevue;  Engadinerhof;  Kurhaus;  Du  Lac),  fam- 
ous for  chalybeate  springs,  impregnated  with  carbonic 
acid  and  alkaline  salts.  Alps  and  glaciers  surround 
the  place,  and  the  air  is  invigorating  to  invalids. 

Pontresina  (Roseg;  Weisses  Kreuz;  Languard)y 
7  M.  from  St.  Moritz,  is  the  starting-point  for  excur' 
sions  in  the  Bernina  chain.  The  season  is  shori, 
prices  high,  and  society  good. 

The  magnificent  Bernina  Pass,  7,657  ft.  high,  is 
crossed  by  daily  diligences  from  Samaden,  in  5^  hrs. 
(9  fr.  89)  via  Pontresina,  to  Poschiavo,  whence  elec- 
tric tram  to  Tirano;  then  rly.  to  Colico,  on  Lake 
Como  (3  hr. ;  22  fr.  75,  17  fr.  40). 

Lucerne,  the  Rigi,  the  St,  Qothard  Route 

Rly.  from  Basle  (3^-  hrs. ;  fares,  9  fr.  40  c,  6  fr.  60  c, 
4  fr.  70  c);  or  from  Zurich,  by  Zug  {Q^  fr.,  4fr.  55c., 
3i  fr.) ;  or  from  Berne  (11  fr.,  7i-  fr._,  5  fr.  30  c);  to 

Lucerne  {Schweizerliof ;  JBeaurivage;  National ; 
Swan  and  Rigi;  de  V Europe;  Tivoli;  lAizernerliof; 
Reh stock ;  on  left  bank,  Victoria;  du  Lac;  Sau- 
vage;  Lngel),  beautifully  situated  at  the  outlet  of 
the  most  lovely  lake  in  Switzerland,  between  the 
Pilatus  and  E-igi,  and  facing  the  Alps  of  Uri  and 
Engelberg.  The  Tow7i  Hall  has  ancient  carvings; 
and  in  the  Stiftshirclie  see  grand  organ,  carvings, 
stained  glass.  Thorwaldsen's  Lion  of  Lucerne  is  a 
statue  of  a  dying  lion,  28ft.  long,  cut  in  the  face  of  a 
cliff,  and  commemorating  800  soldiers  of  the  Swiss 


THE  BIGL-LAKE  OF  LUCERNE.  281 

Guard,  who  died  in  defence  of  the  Tuileries  in  1792. 
Cabell  Bridge,  built  1303,  over  river  Reuss,  has  154 
old  paintings  on  its  roof,  and  ends  at  St.  Peter's 
Chapel  (12  century).  The  Water  Tower,  according 
to  tradition,  was  once  a  lighthouse  {lucerna),  and 
gave  name  to  the  town.  It  now  contains  the  archives. 
The  Muhlen  Bridge  is  ornamented  with  30  singular 
pictures  of  the  Dance  of  Death.  See  also  Museum 
and  Library  (80,000  vols.) ;  Stauffer's  Alpine  animals 
(1  fr.);  the  Glacier  Garden  (1  fr.) ;  and  the  Jesuit  ch. 
The  SchweizerJwf  Quay  is  a  beautiful  promenade  with 
many  trees,  between  the  palatial  hotels  and  the  lake. 

The  Rigi  is  a  group  of  mts.,  30-40  M.  around,  the 
chief  peak,  the  Kulm,  being  5,905  ft.  high  (4,470  ft. 
above  the  lake),  and  nearly  surrounded  by  the  lakes  of 
Lucerne,  Zug,  and  Lowerz.  The  Kulm  is  ascended 
by  a  mt.  rly.,  like  that  on  Mt.  Washington,  and  ha.s 
several  hotels  {Eigi-Kidm;  Sonne;  Rigi- Staff  el;  Rigi- 
Kalthad),  whose  landlords  have  been  compelled  by 
criticism  to  lower  their  prices  and  improve  their  man- 
ners. Engage  rooms  in  advance  in  July  or  Aug. ;  for 
then  hundreds  come  up  here  to  spend  the  night  and 
see  the  sunrise.  Take  plenty  of  warm  wraps.  It  is 
but  2^  hrs.  from  Lucerne  to  t^ie  top,  by  steamer  to 
Vitznau,  and  mt.  rly.  thence  (4^  M.;  7  fr.).  Circular 
ticket,  good  3  days,  from  Zurich  by  Zug  to  the  Rigi- 
Kulm,  down  by  rly.  and  steamer  to  Lucerne, and  back 
to  Zurich,  costs  22  f r.  40  c. ,  19|  fr. ,  16  fr.  70  c.  From 
the  crest  you  see  a  line  of  snowy  Alps,  120  M.  long, 
the  Sentis,  Bernese  range,  Wetterhorn,  Jungfrau, 
etc. ;  elsewhere,  the  Juras,  Vosges,  Suabian  Mts., 
Black  Forest  ;  many  a  famous  Swiss  town  ;  and  13 
lakes.  The  Rigi-Scheidegg(-ff«^rMws),  command- 
ing a  very  noble  view,  is  reached  by  branch  rly. 

From  Vitznau  go  by  steamer  (2  hrs. ;  2  f  r.  20  c. ,  1  f  r. 
10  c.)  to  Flilelen,  up  the  superb  Lake  of  Lucerne 
(  Vierwaldstdtter-See,  or  Lake  of  the  Four  Forest  Can' 


282  ALTORF.  —  AMSTEG. 

tons),  tlie  grandest  in  Europe,  1,433  ft.  iiigli,  25  M. 
long,  and  ]-4  M.  wide.  It  forms  an  irregular  cross, 
between  Yast  mts.  From  the  summer  liotels  at  the 
numerous  villages  —  Beckenried,  Gersau,  Brunnen,  etc. 
■ — fine  mt.  excursions  may  be  made.  Just  beyond 
Seelisberg  are  the  sacred  springs  of  the  Riitli,  on  wliose 
meadow  I'iirst,  Erni,  and  Stauffacher  founded  the  Swiss 
liberties,  in  1307.  Beyond  is  Tell's  Platte,  with  its 
romantic  chapel,  on  the  ledge  where  Tell  leaped  ashore 
from  Gessler's  boat.  Marvellous  scenery  thence  to  tlie 
head  of  the  lake. 

Superb  views  are  had  from  several  poin^  i  near  the 
city.  The  finest  is  from  the  Sonnenterg  (20  min.  by 
electric  car  and  inclined  rly. ;  round  trip  3  fr.)  There 
is  a  golf  course  here  near  the  hotel.  A  fine  view  of 
the  mountains,  the  lake,  and  the  town  is  also  had 
from  CrUtscli,  an  elevation  to  the  west,  reached  by 
tram  in  15  min.  (return  ticket  90  c).  Another  point 
where  there  is  a  good  view  is  the  Drei  Linde7i,  20 
min,  by  carriage  along  a  good  road. 

Pluelen  {Adler ;  Kreuz ;  Tell)  is  the  port  of 
Uri.  2  M.  beyond  is  Altorf  {Tell;  Schlussel ; 
Lowe),  Uri's  capita],  in  a  Tnonn tain-walled  valley, 
and  the  reputed  scene  of  Tell's  shooting  the  apple.  The 
site  is  marked  by  a  fountain.  Colossal  statue  of  Tell 
near  by.  His  birthplace,  near  Biirglen,  is  occupied  by 
a  frescoed  chapel.  9  M.  beyond  Altorf  is  Amsteg 
(Stern;  Kreuz ;  Hirscli),  where  the  Pass  begnis.  This 
was  the  chief  route  over  the  Alps  until  1800.  The 
road  was  built  1820-32.  The  scenery  here  is  grander 
than  on  any  other  pass.  The  Lucerne-Milan  rly.  runs 
under  the  St.  Gothard,  in  a  tunnel  nearly  9  M.  long, 
built  1872-82,  at  a  cost  of  over  ^10,000,000. 

Beyond  Amsteg,  the  road  ascends  the  narrow  Heuss 
valley,  with  i.ne  huge  Bristeiistock  on  the  1. ;  over  tk© 


ANDERMATT.  -  FUROA  PASS.  283 

iottj  Pfafensprimg  bge. ;  by  Wasen  {Hotel  des  Alpes) 
and  Wattingen,  near  Rohrhach  fall  and  the  Teufeh 
vtein;  Geschenen,  at  the  mouth  of  the  tunnel ;  up  steep 
ascents,  and  over  the  DevWs  Bridge,  where  French, 
Austrians,  and  Russians  fought  in  1799  ;  through 
the  Urner  Loch  tunnel,  into  Urseren  valley;  and  up 
io  Andermatt  (BeUevue;  du  Touriste;  St.'  Oothard; 
Oberalp;  Krone),  among  high  and  aridmts.  crowned 
with  snow.  See  chapel,  and  mineral  collections.  9  M. 
distant  is  the  summit  of  the  St.  Gothard  Pass  (6.936  ft. 
high),  whence  road  descends  steeply  by  the  Hospice 
to  Airolo  and  Biasca,  whence  rly.  to  Milan. 

It  is  better  to  return  from  the  top  of  the  Pass, 
^pend  the  night  at  Andermatt,  and  go  over  the 

Furca  and  Grimsel  Passes  to  Interlaken. 

From  Andermatt  diligences  run  in  5-6  hrs.  (21  M. ; 
8.]-fr. ;  coupe,  10  fr.  20  c),  through  Hospenthal  (Mey' 
trhof;  Lowe),  2^  M.  out;  and  by  a  zigzag  route  up 
the  precipices,  amid  wonderful  scenery,  to  the  top  of 
fche  Furca  Pass  (Hotel  de  la  Furca),  7,992  ft.  high; 
past  the  grand  and  lofty  Galenstock  and  Furkahorn; 
and  thence  to  the  Rhone  Glacier.  This  vast  sea  of 
ice,  10,450  ft.  high,  is  surrounded  by  lofty  snowy 
peaks,  and  gives  birth  to  the  famous  river  Rhone. 
Longfellow,  in  Hyperion,  describes  it  as  a  frozen  cata- 
ract, 2,000  ft,  high,  and  many  miles  broad.  You  may 
go  thence  to  Brieg  by  diligence  (5  hrs. ;  104-fr. ;  coupe, 
12  fr.  75  c),  whence  rly.  to  Visp,  en  route  to  Zermatt. 
It  is  better  to  pass  the  night  at  the  Hotel  du  Glacier  du 
Rhone;  and  at  morn  go  by  horse  (32  fr.)  along  the 
steep  grassy  Maienwand;  up  over  the  Grimsel  Pass 
(7,103  ft.  high);  by  the  Lake  of  the  Dead,  in  which 
the  soldiers  killed  in  the  battles  between  the  French 


284  MEIEINGEN.  —  BEIENZ. 

and  AiTStrians  hereabouts,  in  1799,  were  buried;  down 
the  steeps  to  the  Hospice  (now  a  hotel),  in  the  rocky 
mt.  basin  of  the  Orimselgrund,  near  the  Agassizhora 
and  the  Finster-Aarhorn,  and  2  hrs,  from  the  Unter- 
Aar  Glacier,  where  Prof.  Agassiz  abode  in  1841  (ex- 
cursion to  top  of  Little  Sidelhorn,  3  hrs. ;  guide,  4fr.) ; 
down  the  Aare  ravine  to  the  Handeck  Falls  (|  fr.) ; 
where  the  icy  river  precipitates  itself  250  ft.,  in  a  deep 
rocky  gorge  :  by  Guttanen,  with  its  rock-strewn  mead- 
ows ;  to  Im-Hof,  whence  a  good  road  leads  to 

Meiring-en  {Sauvage;  Meiringenhof;  Couronne; 
De  V  Ours)  is  beautifully  situated  in  the  Hasli  valley 
near  the  Reichenbach  Falls.  It  was  almost  totally  de- 
stroyed by  fire  in  October,  1891,  but  has  been  rebuilt. 
From  behind  the  Chalet  I'Ami  you  can  descend  into 
the  canon  of  the  Aare,  It  is  5|-  hrs.  hence  to  Han- 
deck Falls  (horse  up  and  back,  15  fr.). 

The  Briinig  Pass  is  one  of  the  most  frequented. 
Lucerne  to  Alpnach  (whence  Pilatus  may  be 
ascended)  by  steamer  {1\  hrs.),  and  thence  by 
rail  (10  fr.)  to  Bnenz,  via  Meiringen.  You  pass 
the  pretty  hamlet  of  Sarnen,  in  a  rich  valley  be- 
tween high  mts. ;  Bacliseln^  with  a  saint's  relics 
in  its  ch. ;  over  the  Brunig  Pass,  3,395  ft.  high 
{Hotel  Brunigkulm)\  and  then  downward,  with 
magnificent  mt.  views,  to  the  Aare,  where  you 
meet  the  valley  road.  We  advise  the  tourist  to 
go  from  Lncerne  to  the  top  of  the  St.  Gothard, 
and  thence  over  the  Furca  and  Grimsel  to  Meir- 
ingen. You  may  go  thence  to  the  top  of  the 
Brunig  in  a  morning. 

Brienz  {Bar;  Weisses  Krem);,  on  the  mountain- 
walled  Lake  of  Brienz.  800  people  are  employed 
here  in  wood-carving.  The  lake  is  7^x2^  m.,  and 
the  deepest  in  Switzerland.    Jt  is  traversed  by  the 


INTERLAKEN.  —  GRINDELWALD.         285 

4rMtish-green  waters  of  the  Aare.  The  Giessbach  is 
a  series  of  7  beautiful  cascades,  falling  from  rocks  1,148 
ft.  high,  amid  luxuriant  herbage  and  stately  trees,  and 
]  illuminated  at  night  by  Bengal  lights.  A  mt.-rly.  leads 
from  the  landing  on  the  lake,  over  the  tree-tops,  to  the 
hotel  (telegraph  for  rooms,  and  stay  all  night).  By 
steamer  in  10  min.  from  Brienz;  thence  by  footpath 
jji  20  min.  Steamer  from  Brienz,  7  times  daily  (3fr., 
Xir.),  to  Interlaken. 

The  Bernese  Oberland 

i   ! 

I  ',      Interlaken  {Victoria;  3Ietro;pole;  Jungfrau;  Des 

Alpes;  Belvedere;  JimgfrauUich;  Sonne;  Cerf;  de  la 

\    Gave  ;  Oberldnder  ;  Beilevue;  Stadthaus;  National, 

'    Dew^sc^-erAo/Vin  the  beautiful  glen  between  the  lakes 

\   df  Brienz  and  Thun,  is  the  main  rendezvous  of  tourists 

I   during  the  high   season  (July  15  to  Oct.  1),  and  the 

j  best  point  for  trips  in  any  part  of  the  Bernese  Ober- 

I  land.     People  remaining  2-3  weeks  in  this  great  towa 

\  of  hotels  can  get  board  for  8-9  fr.  a  day,  or  in  the 

r  pensions  at   5-6  fr.     See  once  magnificent   Hohe weg 

j  promenade,  lined  with  walnut-trees ;  the  Kursaal,  with 

semi-daily  concerts  ;  the  old  wooden  village  of  TJnter- 

seen;  the  ruined  castles  of  Unsprunnen  and  JFeissenau; 

tod  the   precipitous  Harder   mt.,    where   many   fatal 

accidents  have    occurred.     The  Interlaken  hotels  are 

crowded  with  people  of  fashion ;  and  parties,  balls,  and 

receptions  continually  occur. 

Excursions. — The  legal  tariffs  for  carriages  are  printed 
in  a  pamphlet  (to  be  had  at  the  hotels),  and  are  ad- 
hered to  by  drivers.  Local  guide-books  (in  English) 
describe  routes  and  locaHties.  Grindel-wald  {Bar; 
Eiger  ;  Adler  ;  Du  Glacter)  is  reached  by  railway  or 
private  conveyance,  and  is  near  two  vast  glaciers,  in 


286  LAUTERBRUNNEN— MURREN. 


a  valley  surrounded  by  the  Wetterhorn,  Mettenberg^ 
and  Eiger. 

Lauterbrunnen  {SteinbocTc;  Staubhach)  is  7|  M. 
from  Interlaken,  in  a  narrow  rock-girt  glen,  close  to 
the  famous  Staubbach  (dust-brook),  a  slender  but 
unbroken  fall  980  ft,  high.  Farther  up  the  glen  are 
the  grand  Sclimadrihach  Fall  and  the  far-viewing 
Steinberg  Alp.  A  marvellous  Alpine  experience  is 
gained  by  climbing  (3f  hrs.)  to  Miirren  {Grand 
Hotel  des  Alpes;  MUrren;  Jungfrau;  Eiger),  a  ham- 
let 5,847  ft.  high,  on  the  edge  of  a  cliif  which  fronts 
on  one  of  the  grandest  Oberland  ranges.  The  trip 
from  Lauterbrunnen  to  Miirren  can  now  be  made 
by  rly.  (return  tickets,  6  f  r. ) .  Large  English  colony 
here,  July-September,  with  church.  Grand  views  of 
Jungfrau,  Eiger,  Breithorn,  Monch,  etc.  Excursion 
thence  to  the  Scliingelhorn  in  4-6  hrs.  (guide  neces- 
sary;  return,  3  hrs.). 

From  Lauterbrunnen  bridle-path  over  the  Wen- 
gernalp  ;  by  the  Hotel  de  la  Jungfrau,  whence  is  the 
finest  view  of  the  Jungfrau,  13,671  ft,  high;  ovei 
the  Little  Scheidegg  {Hotel  Bellevue),  6,788  ft. 
high,  with  magnificent  views;  and  down  to  Grindei- 
wald  (entire  journey,  6-7  hrs.);  or  one  can  go  (less 
desirable)  by  rly. 

Meiringen  to  Grindelwald,  18  M.  (7^  hrs.  walk, 
or  horseback  ride),  by  the  grand  Reiclienhach  Fall ; 
the  Baths  of  Rosenlaui  (hotel),  near  the  Rosenlaui 
Glacier;  over  the  Great  Scheidegg  pass,  6,434  ft. 
high;  and  down  by  the  Upper  Grindelwald  Glacier. 
Grand  views  of  Wetterhorn,  Faulhorn,  etc.,  and 
from  the  low  Grindelalp.  Grindelwald  to  Lauter- 
brunnen or  Interlaken. 

The  Lake  of  Thun,  reached  by  rly.  from  Inter- 
laken (Interla,ken  to  Thun,  4-5  times  daily,  in 
li  hr.;  4  fr.  10  c),  12  X  3i  M.  in  area,  and  1,837 
ft.  high,  has  many  villas  and  hamlets  on  its  banks, 
back  of  which  rise  vast  mts.     As  the  steamer  leaves 


SPIEZ-BERNE  287 

Darlingen,  fine  retrospect  of  the  Monch,  Eiger,  and 
Schreekhorn. 
The  Gemmi. — From  S-piez(Spieze7'Jiof,lsikehai.ths; 
Schonegg),  road  into  the  Frutigtlial  (2-^  hrs. ;  also  from 
Than)  and  to  Kandersteg  ( Victoria),  liy.  to  Frutigen. 
1-horse  carriage,  Spiez  to  Kandersteg,  18  fr.  2-horse 
carriage,  18  and  35  f  r.  From  Kandersteg  a  bridle  path 
leads  over  the  Gemmi  pass  (7,553  ft.  high),  amid  mag- 
nificent scenery,  and  down  to  the  Baths  of  Leuk 
(23^  M  ;  guide,  7  fr. ;  horse,  20  fr. ;  horse  to  top  of 
pass,  15  f  r.)  The  steamer  touches  at  Spiez,  Oherhofen, 
etc.,  and  backs  down  the  Aare  to  ScherzUgen  close  to 
Thun  {Hotel  de  Tliun;  Bellevue;  Kreuz;  Krone)^  a 
prettily  situated  village,  with  quaint  street-architec- 
ture; a  castle  built  in  1182;  the  Federal  Military 
School;  and  numerous  fashionable  summer  hotels, 
Uly.  to  Berne,  1  hr.  (3fr.  35c.,  2fr.  35c.,  Ifr.  70c.) 

Berne,  Freiburg,  Lausanne,  Geneva. 

Berne  (^B enter hof  Midi  Bellevue,  both  with  fine  views 
of  the  Bernese  Alps  ;  SchtoeierzJiof ;  De  France  ;  Bar; 
Starch;  Du  Jura;  Bfisterri),  the  capital  of  Switzerland 
(68,000  inhab.),  on  a  sandstone  peninsula  high  over 
t^e  Aare,  has  pleasant  aucaded  streets  and  mediaeval 
houses  and  fountains,  and  is  a  favorable  place  to  rest 
after  journeying  in  the  Alps.  See  fine  Gothic  Cathedral 
(1598),  with  quaint  carvings  and  famous  organ ;  Cathe' 
dral-Terrace,  viewing  the  entire  Bernese  range,  Wetter- 
horn,  Finster-Aarhorn,  Monch,  Eiger,  Jungfrau,  etc., 
and  the  beautiful  roseate  sunset  effect  of  the  Alpen- 
Glow;  statues  of  Rudolpli  von  Eiiach  and  Berthold 
von  Zabringen;  Museum  (open  daily, -J  fr.)  of  natural 
history  and  antiquities;  JJniversity,  400  students,  and 
rich  library  ;  liathhaus,  bailt  1406 .  Bear-Pit,  witii 


S88       FEEIBUKG.—  LAUSANNE. 

bears,  maintained  at  the  cost  of  the  mimicipaUty  \ 
Arsenal,  and  military  curiosities ;  Clock- Ihwer^ 
built  in  1191,  with  quaint  automata ;  Co^m-HaU, 
©ver  great  wine  cellars;  Og7'e  Fountain,  etc.  The  Fed« 
®ral  Buildings  (open  9.30-11.30,  2-4,  free)  are  two 
noble  Florentine  edifices  (1857  and  1892).  The  two 
houses  of  the  national  legislature  meet  here.  From 
roof  of  older  building  there  is  a  famous  view  of  the 
Alps  and  city.  There  are  beautiful  views  also  from 
the  SchcinzU  and  the  Enge,  near  Berne.  Visit  His- 
torical Museum  [^  fr.),  opened  1894,  and  the  Kunst 
Museum,  mostly  modern  paintings.  From  Berne  by 
ry.  in-li  hr.  (fares  3ifr.,  2ifr.,  Ifr.  85c.)  to 

E'reiburg  {Hotel  du  Faucoji;  Suisse;  Tete  Noire) ^ 
founded  (like  Berne)  by  Berthold  von  Zaliringen  in 
1175,  and  standing  on  cliffs  over  the  river  Sarine,  a 
nobly  picturesque  situation.  See  the  Gothic  Church 
(built  1288),  in  which  is  a  renowned  organ  of  7,800 
pipes,  said  to  have  the  richest  tone  in  the  world  (con. 
cert  at  dusk,  summer  evenings,  1  fr.)  ;  the  16tli-century 
Rathhaus,  with  its  venerable  lime-tree  and  stairway  to 
the  lower  town ;  and  the  Suspension  Bridge,  bOO  ft.  long 
and  168  ft.  above  the  river. 

The  descent  hence  to  Lausanne  (42  M.)  is  one  of 
the  most  beautiful  routes  in  Europe.  Take  seat  on  1, 
side,  to  see  the  Lake  of  Geneva  and  its  picturesque 
■shores.  Exquisite  view  after  emerging  from  the  tunnel 
'beyond  Chexbres  (the  stat.  for  Vevay).  ' 

Iiausanne  {Riche  Mont ;  Beau  Sejo^ir;  Victoria; 
Beau  Site;  Du  U-rand  Pont ;  Gibbon,  where  Gibbon 
wrote  part  of  his  history),  with  its  lovely  views  over 
tlie  lake,  has  become  a  favorite  summer-resort  and 
place  of  residence  (47,000  inhab.).  See  Gothic  Ca- 
thedral (Protestant),  built  1235-75,  where  Calvin  and 
others  held  a  famous  debate,  in  1536,  resulting  in  Prot- 
estantizing Vaud.     It  is  reached  by  164  steps  from 


GENEVA.  —  FERNEY.  289 

the  market-place ;  and  the  plain  symmetrical  interior 
is  300  feet  long.  The  old  Episcopal  Castle  (now 
Cantonal  Council-Hall)  commands  a  broad  prospect. 
See  the  two  museums.  From  the  Signal,  half  an 
hour  walk  out,  the  best  view  is  gained. 

Continue  on  this  route,  by  the  lovely  villages  of 
Morges,  Nyon,  and  Coppet,  to 

Geneva  {Grand  Motel  de  la  Paix ;  desBergues} 
de  Russie;  Richemond;  de  V  Univers;  Beau  Rivage; 
d' Angleterre ;  Bellevue;  National;  Metropole ;  de 
fEcu;  du  Pare;  du  Lac;  de  la  Poste;  de  Paris),  a 
city  of  90,0UO  inhab..  in  a  pretty  situation  at  the  foot 
of"  the  Lake  of  Geneva,  and  divided  into  two 
parts  by  the  swift  and  rushing  blue  Rhone. 
The  favorite  promenade,  the  3Iont-Blanc  Bridge^ 
crosses  between  the  lake  and  Rousseau's  Island^ 
on  which  is  a  statue  of  Rousseau.  Broad  quays, 
lined  with  handsome  buildings  and  hotels, 
face  the  river  and  lake.  Beautiful  views  of 
Mont  Blanc  fiom  the  Quai  du  Mont  -  Blanc 
and  the  pier  beyond.  The  Cathedral  (Protestant), 
"the  St.  Peter's  of  the  J^orth,"_is  a  plain  18th- 
century  building  (  50  c. ) ,  containing  several  old 
monuments.  Here  Calvin  preached.  His  house  is 
close  by ;  and  his  grave  is  in  Plain-Palais  cemetery. 
Rousseau's  birthplace  was  N"o.  40  Grand  Rue.  See 
Ilusee  Fol,  antiquities;  JIusee  Rath  (daily,  11-3), 
with  many  paintings  and  casts  ;  Florentine  Motel  de 
Ville,  with  inclined  planes  instead  of  stairs;  Na- 
tional Monument,  bronze  group  by  the  lake;  the 
University  (1868-72),  with  large  library  and  MSS., 
and  famous  natural  history  collections;  Musee 
Ariana  (I  fr.,  free  Thurs.  and  Sun.);  and  the  vast 
monument  to  Duke  Charles  II.  of  Brunswick,  on 
the  Place  des  Alpes. 

Excursions. — To  Ferny,  44-  M.  N.W.  (hourly  elec- 
iric  tram  over  a  route  rich  in  viev/s),  where  Voltaire 


290  LAKE  OF  GENEVA.  —  COPPET. 

founded  a  town,  built  factories,  a  chateau,  and  a  cli. 
(inscribed  Deo  erexit  Voltaire)  ;  to  the  imposing  new 
Hothscliild  villa,  at  Pregny  ;  to  the  Saleve,  4  M.  S.  E., 
a  limestone  mt.,  4,278  ft.  high,  giving  a  panoramic  view 
of  the  Mont-Blanc  chain,  the  Jaras,  and  the  Lake  of 
Geneva ;  to  Les  Voirons,  another  far- viewing  mt. ;  to 
the  villas  where  dwelt  Voltaire,  Byron,  Lola  Montez. 
and  the  Empress  Josephine  ;  to  the  French  stronghold 
of  Fort  de  VEcluse  ;  and  to  the  Ferte  du  Rhone,  where, 
at  low  water,  the  river  vanishes  in  a  deep  caiion. 

The  Lake  of  Geneva,  the  Lacus  Lemanus  of  the 
Komans,  and  Lac  Leman  of  the  Erench,  is  tlie  largest 
Swiss  lake,  being  about  50  X  9  M.  (225  sq.  M.)  in 
area,  and  1,230  ft.  above  the  sea.  It  is  in  the  form  of 
a  half-moon.  The  water  is  deep  blue,  and  contains  but 
few  fish.  It  never  freezes  over,  and  has  mysterious 
rises  and  falls,  strong  currents,  and  water-spouts. 
Voltaire  and  Rousseau,  Byron  and  Goethe,  have  praised 
its  magnificent  scenery.  Scores  of  villages  line  the 
shores,  but  have  little  commerce  on  the  water.  Capital 
steamboats  "ply  here. 

The  S.  coast  boat  runs  in  4|-5  hrs.  (6  fr.,  3  fr.)  by 
Thonon,  capital  of  Chablais ;  and  Evian  {Hotel  de 
France ;  Foian ;  Des  Baint]),  a  beautiful  and  fashion- 
able French  summer-resort,  with  fine  views  of  Lausanne ; 
to  Bouveret,  at  the  end  of  the  lake  (rly.  to  Martigny). 

The   better  route   is   along  the   N.   shore,   4|-  hrs. 
(7i  fr.,  3  fr.)  from  Geneva  by  Versoix,  once  a  French 
town;    Coppet    {Du  Lac;  Du  Port),  whose  castle  was 
long  time  the  home  and  is  now  the  burial-place  of 
Necker,  the  famous  finance-minister,  and  his  daughter, 
Madame  de  Stael ;  Nyon  (Du  Lac;  Du  Jura;  Ange),  a 
lovely  village,  with  massive  12th  century  castle,  and 
a  splendid  view  of  Mont  Blanc;  Rolle,  birthplace  of 
La  Harpe,  to  whom  an  obelisk  has  been  raised  on  an 


MORGES.  —  VEVAY.  —  NEUCHITEL.   291 

adjacent  island;  Merges,  with  a  castle  once  occupied 
by  Bertha,  Queen  of  Burgundy;  Ouchy  {Hotel  Beau 
Bivage;  D'Angleterre;  BuCJiateau), whence  rl.in  6  m, 
(50c.,  25c.)  to  Lausanne;  Corsier,  close  to  the  impos- 
ing and  far-viewing  Grand  Hotel  cle  Vevay,  in  gardens 
of  magnolias  and  rose-trees ;  Vevay  {Grand  Hotel  de 
Vevay ;  DuPont;  BuLac),  a  sheltered  nook  with  semi- 
tropical  climate,  much  visited  by  invalids  and  summer 
loiterers,  and  celebrated  in  Rousseau's  Nouvelle  Helo'ise; 
Clarens,  with  many  villas  and  pe?isions,  and  natural 
beauties  extolled  by  Byron  and  Rousseau ;  and  Mon- 
treux  {Lorius;  Beau-Lieu;  Suisse),  a  shelter  for  con- 
sumptives ;  to  Viileneuve,  at  the  end  of  the  lake  (ry.  to 
Martigiiy,  etc.).  Pleasant  walk  thence  to  the  famous 
Castle  of  Chillon  (2  M. ;  entrance,  50  c),  whose 
dungeons  and  their  illustrious  prisoner  have  been  im- 
mortalized by  Byron.  See  Rocher  de  Naye,  a  beau- 
tiful mountain  place  above  Territet,  between  Chillon 
and  Montreux,  at  the  E.  end  ol  the  Lake  of  G-eneva. 
Neuchatel  (BeUevue;  BuLac;  Soletl;  Vaisseau),  2 
hrs.  by  rly.  from  Lausanne,  stands  on  an  amphitheatrical 
slope  of  tiie  Jura,  sloping  down  to  the  lake,  and  is 
famous  for  watches.  Wealthy  citizens  have  endowed 
it  nobly.  See  splendid  Gymnasium  and  Academy, 
museums,  Library  (70,000  vols.),  new  College,  Picture- 
Gallery  (^  fr.)  of  fine  modern  Swiss  paintings,  ancient 
Castle,  and  the  3  great  hospitals.  Agassiz  was  once  a 
professor  here.  The  Lake  of  Neuchatel,  24  X  5  M.  in 
area,  lies  at  the  foot  of  the  Juras,  with  level  shores  and 
deep  waters.  At  its  S.  end  is  Yverdon  {Hotel  de 
Londres  ;  Baon;  Faticon),  where  Pestalozzi  conducted 
his  school  (1805-25).  Steamboats  run  from  Neuchatel 
to  Estavayer,  and  into  the  gloomy  Lake  of  Morat, 
famous  in  Roman  and  Burgundian  history.  To  the  N., 
1  hr.  by  rly.  from  Berne,  is  Bienne,  a  lovely  Bernese 
town  of  8,000  inhab.,  neat   Cliasseral  mt.     The  LaH 


293  AIGLE.  —  THE  COL  DE  BALME. 

of  Bienne  (7  M.  long)  contains  the  Peterinsel,  where 
Rousseau  took  refuge  when  driven  from  Geneva  (in 
1765). 

Chamounix  and  flont  Blanc. 

From  Geneva  by  str.  to  Villeneuve,  rly.  thence  to 
Martigny,  and  across  to  Chamounix.  One  can  now  go 
from  Geneva  to  Chamounix  entirely  by  rail — steam 
to  Fayet  St.  Gervais,  thence  by  electric  tram.  The 
journey  takes  only  a  few  hours.  France  is  entered 
at  Annemasse.     Dinner  at  Sallanches. 

Fare  by  boat  and  rly.,  Geneva  to  Martigny,  13  fr. 
90  c,  9  fr.  60  c,  6  fr.  90  c.  Ascending  the  Rhone  Valley 
from  Villeneuve,  the  rly.  passes  Aigle  (Grand  Hotel 
des  Bains  ;  Beau  Site),  a  pleasant  summer-resort;  and 
Bex  (Grand  Hotel  des  Salines  ;  Bains)^  whence  route 
to  Sion,  across  the  Col  de  Cheville.  Beautiful  views 
of  the  Dent  du  Midi,  while  nearing  St.  Maurice 
(Hotel  du  Simplon;  des  Alpes).  This  is  a  very  old  town 
with  a  4tli  century  abbey,  enshrining  rare  curiosities;  a 
stalactite  grotto;  and  picturesque  fortifications.  Be- 
yond Evionnaz  Stat,  see  the  Pissevache  fall  (200  ft.) 
on  the  r.  This  is  best  visited  from  Vernayaz  (Hotel 
des  Oorges;  Des  Alpes),  which  is  also  very  near  the  cele- 
brated Gorge  du  Trient.  Martigny  (H.  Glerc;  De  la 
Gare;  National;  Mt.  Blanc;  St.  Bernard)  is  starting 
|)oint  of  the  routes  over  the  Simplon  (to  Lake  Maggiore) 
and  the  Great  St.  Bernard  (to  Aosta),  and  over  the 
passes  to  Chamounix.  You  can  visit  Chamounix ; 
ascend  to  the  top  of  the  St.  Bernard ;  return  to  Mar- 
tigny ;  and  go  thence  over  the  Simplon. 

The  Col  de  Balme.  —  Martigny  to  Chamounix, 
9-10  hrs. ;  mule  and  attendant,  24  fr.  and  gratuity 
<2  mules,  36  fr.).  Carriage-road  as  far  as  Trient; 
where  lunch  is  taken.     Grand  view  of  the  Mont-Blanc 


CHAMOUNIX.  —  MONT  BLANC.  293 

group.  Path  in  2  hrs.  to  Col  de  Balms  {Hotel 
Suisse),  7,231  ft.  high,  the  boundary  between  Swiss 
Valais  and  French  Savoy,  with  amazing  prospect  of 
mts.  Descend  the  Arve  valley  thence  to  Tour  and 
Argentiere  {Bellevue) ;  whence  road  (1-horse  carriage, 
5  f r. ,  and  1  f r.  to  driver)  to 

Chamounix(/m^eVmZ;  Cacliat  et  du  Mont  Blanc; 
d^Anghterre;  Couttet  et  du  Pare;  Royal  et  de  Saus- 
sure;  Savoy) ,  in  Arve  valley,  3,445  ft.  high,  at  foot  of 
Mt.  Blanc,  has  15-20,000  visitors  yearly,  and  is  one 
of  the  chief  centres  for  Alpine  tourists.  Rooms  should 
be  secured  in  advance.  The  whole  valley  is  worthy  of 
study,  and  has  scores  of  points  of  interest.  Tariffs  for 
guides  and  mules  (strictly  observed)  may  be  obtained 
at  chief  guide's  office.  In  a  day  you  may  ascend  the 
Montanvert  (easy  bridle-path,  2^  hrs.),  where  Tyn- 
dall  studied  glacier  movement ;  cross  the  wonderful 
Mer  de  Glace  to  the  rocky  cliffs  of  the  Chapeau  (path 
ia  the  ice,  l^hrs.),  where  there  is  an  inn;  descend  to 
hes  Praz  ;  chmb  thence  to  La  Flegere  (path  in  2|  hrs. ; 
inn  on  summit,  6,260  ft.  high),  whence  magnificent 
view  of  the  vast  snowy  Mont  Blanc,  Aiguille  Vert, 
Mer  de  Glace,  etc. ;  and  return  to  Chamounix.  On 
the  descent  to  Les  Praz,  you  may  visit  the  source  of 
the  Arveiron.  The  Jardin  is  among  the  rocks  on  the 
Glacier  de  Talefre,  where  Alpine  flowers  bloom  in 
August.  The  Brevent,  one  of  the  Aiguilles  Rouges, 
8,284  ft.  high,  commanding  the  best  view  of  Mont 
Blanc,  mav  be  climbed  by  path  in  4  hrs. 

Mont  Blanc,  the  highest  of  the  Alps  (15,781  ft.), 
the  boundary  between  France  and  Italy,  was  first 
ascended  in  1786.  Many  parties  now  ascend  yearly 
(3-4  persons,  100  fr.  each,  for  guides,  etc.).  Many 
valuable  lives  have  been  lost  here,  but  in  fine  weather 
and  with  duo  caution  there  is  little  danger.     First  day's 


294  ST.   BERNARD  PASS. 

climb  to  stone  Imts  on  Grands  Mulets  (10,007  f  c.) ; 
second,  to  summit  and  back ;  third,  from  Grands  Mulets 
to  Chamounix. 

,  The  Tete-Noire  affords  a  good  route  from  Chamou- 
nix to  Martigny  (9-10  hrs.)  One  can  now  go  by 
electric  tram  to  Argentiere;  across  the  Col  des 
Montets ;  near  the  Foyaz  and  Barberine  Cascades ; 
through  Valor chie  village  and  Le  Chatelard ;  through 
the  rockj  Tete-Noire  pass ;  and  down  through  Trient  to 
Martigny. 

The  St.  Bernard  and  Simplon  Passes. — 
Zermatt. 

Martigny  to  the  Hospice,  ll^^hrs.,  a  very  interesting 
journey.  Start  at  morn  (2-horse  carriage,  45  fr.  and 
gratuity)  ;  or  pass  night  at  Orsieres,  ascend  to  Hospice 
to  breakfast,  and  return  to  Martigny  afternoon.  Daily 
diligence  to  Bourg  St.  Pierre.  The  road  ascends  the 
Dranse  valley  to  Orsieres  {Hotel  des  Alpes)  ;  climbs 
steeply  5  M.  to  Liddes  {Angleterre  ;  Union'),  whence 
mule  and  guide  to  Hospice,  8-9  fr. ;  by  Bourg  St. 
Pierre  {Au  Dejeuner  de  Napoleon')  and  Cantine  de  Proz, 
the  end  of  the  road.  7  M.  distant,  through  the  Defile 
de  Marengo,  at  the  top  of  the  pass,  is  St.  Bernard 
Hospice,  8,120  ft.  above  the  sea,  occupied  since  962 
by  French  Augustinian  monks,  who  give  free  hospi- 
tality to  all  travellers.  20,000  peasants  are  fed  here 
every  year ;  and  in  summer  many  tourists  come.  No 
charge  is  made  for  food,  etc.,  but  well-to-do  travellers 
put  money  in  the  poor-box  of  the  ch.  The  convent, 
very  rich  in  the  Middle  Ages,  is  now  poor.  Its  pro- 
visions are  brought  from  Italy.  See  Napoleon's  monu- 
ment to  Dessaix,  in  the  chapel ;  the  great  library ;  the 
Mor<yue'    and   the   noble   dogs.     The   pass  has  been 


ZERMATT.  —  SIMPLON  PASS.  295 

crossed  by  vast  armies  of  Romans,  Lombards,  Franks, 
and  Germans ;  and  in  1799  heavy  iigliting  occurred 
liere  between  the  Austrians  and  Napoleon's  troops. 

It  is  6  lirs.  hence  to  Aosta,  in  Italy. 

Zermatt  (  Victoria;  Mo7if-Cervin;  3Io7it-Ro8e)  is 
approached    from    Martigny     by    railway,    passing 
through  "Vispach.      The  "traveller  will  lind    this    a 
characteristic  Alpine  route,  among  gorges,  cascades, 
and  rocky  peaks,  with  vast  mountains  in   advance. 
The  village  is  the  highest  in  Europe  (5,215  feet),  con- 
tinuously inhabited,  and  is  in  the  very  heart  of  the  Alps, 
in  a  glen  invaded  by  3  glaciers  and  overtopped  by  the 
Matterhorn,  Monte  Rosa,  and  other  vast  peaks.     Its 
ch.-yard  has  graves  of  several  famous  men  who  lost 
their  lives  on  these  rats.    The  Riffeiberg  (with  hotel)  i"^ 
3  hrs.  distant,  by  bridle-path ;  and  \.\  hr.  beyond  is  thp 
rocky  crest  of  Gorner  G-rat,  10,290  ft.  high,  with  su 
perb  view  of  Monte  Rosa's  rocky  pyramids  (16,132  ft.), 
on  the  S.  E. ;  the  black  Breithorn  (13,685  ft.),  on  thr 
S. ;  the  craggy  Matterhorn  (14,705  ft.),  on  the  W.  / 
the  Dent  Blanche,  Gabelhorn,  Morning,  the  Mischabe), 
and  the  Allaleinhorn,  in  the  N.    Gornergrat  elec.  ry. 
now   completed.      From  Zermatt  visit   the    Gorner 
Glacier  (12  M.  long),  which  is  larger  than  tlie  Mer  de 
Glace ;  tlie  Findelen  Glacier ;  and  to  the  Cima  di  Jazi 
(12,526  ft.),  by  the  Riffeiberg.     The  8t.  Theodule  Pass 
leads  to  Aosta.     Monte  Rosa  (15,217  ft.)  offers  a 
safe,  but  fatiguing  climb  (up  and  back,  12-14  hrs.). 
The  fatal  Matterhorn  is  ascended  by  several  parties 
yearly  (a  severe  2-days'  trip). 

The  Simplon. — Rly.  Marti2:ny  to  Briear  in  24-  hrs, 
(8fr.  20,  5fr.  80,  4fr.  10),  by  Saxon-les-Bains  {Grand 
Motel  des  Bains;  de  la  Pierre-d-Yoir),  with  iodated 
raters,  good  for  skin  diseases;  beautiful  Sion(^.  du 
Hidi;  Poste),  with  old  castles,  Gothic  cathedral,  2  fine 


296  SIMPLON  PASS. 

old  chs.,  and  6,000  inhab. ;  mediseval  Bieiie  {Be llevue), 
with  the .  chateaux  of  the  Valais  nobles  ;  Leuk,  a  few 
miles  from  the  Baths  of  Leuk  (Hotel  des  Alpes ; 
Bellevue ;  I)e  France'),  and  at  the  foot  of  the  Gem  mi 
Pass  ;  and  Visp  (rouve  to  Zennatt) .  Prom  the  end  of 
the  rly.,  at  Brieg  (Hotel  d' Angleterre') ,  diligences  cross 
the  Simplon  Pass  in  9-10  hrs.  (39  M.  ;  fares,  16  fr. 
55  c. ;  coupe,  19  fr.  65  c),  to  Domo  d'  Ossola.  Napoleon 
built  this  great  road,  in  1801-6,  at  a  cost  of  $3,600,000, 
for  a  military  route  into  Italy.  There  are  numerous 
houses  of  refuge  where  the  road  nears  the  glaciers. 
The  crest  of  the  pass  is  6,594  ft.  high,  in  an  open  val- 
ley among  glaciers.  Beyond,  near  Monte  Leone,  is 
the  Hospice,  whose  monks  are  hospitable  to  all 
comers.  Magnificent  mt.-scenery  on  upper  reaches  of 
pass.  The  road  descends  5|  M.  to  Simplon  (Paste'), 
and  through  the  Gondo  Ravine.  \  M.  beyond  the 
hamlet  of  Gondo  it  enters  Italy,  and  passes  down,  b^ 
several  villages,  through  wild  and  picturesque  gorges, 
by  the  Crevola  Gallery,  and  over  the  lofty  Doveri& 
Bridge,  to  Tiomo  A' Ossola.,  (See  page  398.)  Now, 
however,  the  opening  of  the  Simplon  tunnel  has 
made  possible  an  all  rail  route  from  France  to  Italy, 
reducing  the  length  of  the  jourjiey  by  several  hours, 
and  at  the  same  time  depriving  it  of  much  of  its  pic- 
turesqueness.  The  tunnel  extends  from  Brieg  to 
Iselle,  a  distance  of  a  little  over  13  miles. 


ROUTES  INTO  ITALY.  297 


ITALY. 

npHE  money  of  Italy  is  reckoned  in  lire  and  cen- 
tesimi,  which  correspond  to  francs  and  cen- 
times. The  paper  money  consists  of  notes  of  5,  10 
and  25  lire.  Beware  of  counterfeits ;  also  of  talking 
large  bank  notes  in  one  city  which  may  not  be  good 
111  another.  See  Chapter  on  Travel,  for  general  ob- 
servations on  Italy.  Many  complaints  have  been 
made  of  thefts  from  baggage  on  the  Italian  railways. 
It  is  well,  therefore,  not  to  carry  valuable  jewelry,  or 
money,  in  trunks. 

Routes  into  Italy. 

1.  Paris  to  Turin,  hy  Mt.  Cenis,  496f  M. ;  16 
(express)  to  27  hrs. ;  fares,  91  fr.  10  c,  62  fr.  55  c, 
40  fr.  15  c.  Route  leads  through  Fontainebleau,  Ton- 
nerre,  Montbard(BufFon's  home),  Dijon,  Macon,  Culoz, 
Chambery,  and  Modane  (frontier  stat. ;  change  cars). 
The  Mt.-Ceni3  Tunnel,  8  M.  long,  was  built  1861- 
71,  at  a  cost  of  l|15,000,000.  Trains  for  Italy  run 
through  it  in  45  miii.  ;  trains  for  Eraiice,  in  25  min. 

2.  Paris  to  Genoa,  hij  Marseilles  and  Nice,^^^\ 
M. ;  fares,  155  fr.  90  c.',  105  fr.  35  c,  84  fr.  30  c.  Rly. 
from  Genoa  via  Alessandria,  to  Turin ;  or  from  Savona^ 
W.  of  Genoa,  to  Turin  (5^  hrs.). 

3.  Geneva  to  Milan,  by  the  Simplon,  see  p.  295. 

4.  Lucerne  to  Milan,  by  the  St.  Gothard  (see  p.  280), 
through  Eliielen,  Airolo,  and  Belliuzoua,  and  tlience 
rly.  by  Como.  Or  rly.  through  from  Lucerne  to  Milaa 
(fare,  36  fr.  70  c). 


298  LAKE  MAGGIORB. 

5.  Coire  to  Milan,  by  the  Spliigen,  to  Chiavenna  and 
Colico,  wlience  steamer  to  Como,  and  rly.  to  Milan. 
Or  by  Bernardino  Pass,  Coire  to  Bellinzona,  whence 
rly.  Or  by  Julier  and  Bernina  Passes,  Coire  to  Sama- 
den,  Tirano,  and  Colico,  whence  steamer  to  Como.^ 
and  rly.  to  Milan, 

6.  Basle  to  Milan,  by  the  Stelvio.  Uly.  to  Con- 
stance and  Bludenz ;  diligence  to  Laiideck,  Nanders, 
Bormio,  and  Colico;  steamer  and  rly.  to  Milan. 

7.  Munich  to  Verona,  by  Brenner  Pass,  see  p.  264. 

8.  Vienna  to  Venice,  by  tlie  Semniering,  all  rly.,  by 
Bruch  and  Villach,  through  magnificent  scenery.  Leave 
Vienna  at  7  a.m.  ;  reach  Venice,  11  p.m.  Or  rly.  from 
Vienna  to  Trieste,  and  steamer  thence  to  Venice. 

The  Tour  of  the  Italian  Lakes. 

Domo  d'  Ossola  (^Grand  H6tel.de  la  Ville i  B'Es. 
pagne)  is  a  pretty  southern  village,  with  a  charming 
view  from  the  Calvary,  -J  hr.  distant.  Eailway  to 
Novara  (55  M.;  3^  hrs.;  10  1.  30  c,  7  1. 15  c,  4  1.  60  c.) 
passing  the  ruined  castle  of  Vogogna  ;  Ornaoasso,  with 
a  castle  of  the  Visconti,  and  the  quarries  whence  Milan 
Cathedral  was  hewn  ;  Gramllona  ;  through  the  valley 
of  the  Strona  to  Omegna  at  the  N.  end  of  the  Lake  of 
Orta.  Thence  along  the  shore  of  the  lake,  beautifnl 
views,  to  Oozzano  ;  through  the  valley  of  the  Agogna 
to  Novara,  whence  Milan  can  be  reached  by  rly.  in  1^ 
hr.  Diligence  from  Gravellona  to  Pallanza,  on  Lake 
Maggiore  (6  M.;  1  hr.;  1  1.,  outside,  1|  1.)  ;  to  Stresa 
m  M. ;  1  hr. ;  1  1. 20  c. ;  11.  80c.).  It  is  wise  to  make 
a  tour  of  the  lakes  (1-2  days)  before  going  to  Milan. 

Lake  Maggiore,  37x4^  M.  in  area,  and  of  vast 
depth,  is  very  beautiful,  with  the  rich  plains  and  vine- 
yards on  the  S.,  and  the  great  mts.  on  the  N.  There 
are  marble  and  granite  quarries  on  its  shores,  and  ri^l 


fiaaiij 


Leaie 


ARONA.—BOKKOME AN  ISLANDS.  299 

(nines.  Arona  {Alhergo  Reale  e  Posta),  on  the  S.,  is 
an  old  town,  with  rare  paintings  in  its  ch.  On  the 
hill  is  a  copper  and  bronze  statue,  70  ft.  high,  of  St. 
Charles  Borromeo  (1697),  the  famous  Cardinal-Arch- 
bishop of  Milan,  who  died  in  1584.  The  head  will  hold 
3  persons  (ladders  ascend  to  it,  inside).  Steamer  f  ronj 
Arona  to  Locarno  (4  1.  80  c,  2  1.  65  c).  It  calls  aj 
Stresa  {Hotel  ties  lies  Borromees ;  M'ilan\  with  ita 
fine  monastery  and  cypress-trees;  and  Baveno  {Grand 
Jlotel  BeUevue;  Beau  Rivage;  Simplon).  The  shores 
are  Ihied  with  villas ;  and  in  the  N.  glimmer  the  Alps, 
Monte  Rosa,  St.  Gothard,  etc.  The  beautiful  Borro- 
mean  Islands  are  touched  at  (see  Jean  Paul  Ricbter's 
description).  Isola  Bella  {Hotel  chi  Dcmphin)  has  the 
great  palace  of  the  Borromeo  family  (open  daily;  11.), 
rising  over  10  terraces  of  gardens,  rich  in  flowers  and 
fountains,  Isola  M'adre  has  an  empty  palace,  above 
7  terraces,  laden  with  orange  and  lemon  trees,  cedars, 
and  cypresses.  Boat  with  2  men,  from  Baveno,  5  1. 
first  hr.,  1 1.  others.  Arona  to  Isola  Bella,  by  steamer, 
1^  1.,  90  c. ;  fare  thence,  by  Fariolo,  Intra,  and  Laveno, 
II.  85  c.,  11.  15  c.,  to  Luino.  Opposite  is  CannerOj 
among  the  vineyards,  with  ancient  brigands'  castles  off- 
shore. Lovely  villages  appear  on  either  coast.  The 
steamer  keeps  on  N.  to  Locarno  {Grand  Hotel 
Locarno;  Reher;  dio  Pare),  in  the  Swiss  Canton  of 
Ticino,  to  which  the  upper  part  of  the  lake  belongs. 
See  ch.,  with  good  pictures;  Cantonal  buildings  ;  and 
Ch.  of  Madonna  del  Sasso,  on  the  hill,  visited  by 
myriads  of  pilgrims.  Rly.  hence  to  Belhuzona,  whence 
diligence  over  the  Spliigen.  Return  by  boat  (21. 
10  c,  11  20  c.)  to 

Luino  {Hotel  du  Simplon  ;  Pasta  ;  Vittona),  a  fa= 
vorite  summer-resort,  with  the  Crivelli  Palace  and 
Garibaldi's  statue.    Steam  tramway  (1  h.;  2  1.  600.,  1 1. 


300      LAKE  LUGANO  -  LAKE  COMO 

45c.)  to  Ponte  Tresa,  thence  ptearaboat  (50  min.,  41. 
50c.,  2  1.  70c.)  to  Lua:ano  {Hotel  da  Pare;  Grand; 
Splendide;  Bellevue; Sletropole;  St.  Gottharcl;  Berna; 
Bristol;  Svizzera)^  a  Swiss    cantonal  capital,  in- 
habited by  Italians,  amid  exquisite  scenery  and  ricft 
villas.     See  S.  Lorenzo  Ch.;  St  a.  Maria,  with  Luini's 
frescos ;    Wm.  Tell's  statue  ;    and  old  convents  and 
palaces.     Excursion  to  Mt.  B.  Salvadore  (2,983  ft. 
high)  in  3  hrs.  (guide  and  horse,  7  !.)•     View  of  Alps. 

Lake  Lugano  is  a  series  of  deep,  sinuous  gulfs 
among  the  nits.,  14  M.  long  and  3  M.  wide,  Swiss  on 
one  side,  Italian  on  the  other,  in  a  climate  of  perpetual 
spring,  and  amid  very  lovely  scenery.  The  adjacent 
peaks  overlook  the  Lombard  plain,  down  to  Milan. 
Steamer  from  Lugano  (2|1.,  11.),  by  Osteno,  near  a 
remarkable  grotto,  to  Porlezza,  a  quaint  village  in  an 
amphitlieatre  of  hills;  or  S.,  to  Capolago,  vs^bence  rail- 
way to  Como,  Steam  tramway  (about  9  M. ;  1  hr. ;  2 1. 
65  c,  1  1.  45c.)  from  Porlezza,' by  Piano  and  Croce, 
and  through  a  rich  country,  with  Lake  Como  below 
and  the  Alps  in  sight  from  the  Spliigen  to  the  Ortler 
Spitz,  to  Menaggio  {Menaggio,  Vittoria,  Corona), 
on  Lake  Como.  Tliis  is  a  good  point  for  excursions  • 
and  on  the  hill  is  the  Filla  Vigoni,  with  fine  sculptures. 

Lake  Como,  the  Lacus  Larius  of  the  Romans,  is 
shaped  like  the  letter  Y,  and  is  33  M.  long,  2-3  M. 
wide,  and  1,800  ft.  deep.  It  is  one  of  the  lovehest  lakes 
in  the  world,  and  its  natural  charms  of  mts.,  vineyards, 
and  forests  are  heightened  by  the  white  Italian  hamlets 
and  the  splendid  villas  of  Milanese  families.  Cross  to 
"BeWsL^^io  {Grande  Bretagne ;  Bellaggio  ;  Genazzini  ; 
Villa  Serbelloni ;  Florence;  Suisse'),  a  favorite  Anglo- 
American  resort  The  Villa  Melzi  (1 1.)  has  splendid 
sculptures  (by  Canova)  and  frescos,  and  a  famous 
garden       From    Villa  Serbelloni,  best   view   on   the 


COMO.  — LAKE  or  GAEDA.  301 

lake.  Across  the  lake  is  Cadennabbia  {BelUdue ; 
Belle  He;  Britannia),  near  the  celebrated  Villa  Car- 
lotta  (fee  1  1.),  rich  in  finest  sculptures  of  Canova 
and  Thorwaldsen.  Steamer  from  Bellagsrio  to  Golico, 
whence  rly.  (17  M.;  31.  10  c.  2  1.  15  c,  1  1.  40  c.)  to 
Chiavenna,  and  diligence  over  the  Splligen  (12  hrs.; 
g2  1.,  outside  26  1.  65  c.)  to  Coire  (see  p.  278).  Eeturn 
thence  to  Colico  and  take  steamer  (3|^-5  hrs. ;  4  1,  70  c. , 
2  1.  60  c.)  through  the  lake,  noting  castles  of  Musso 
and  many  beautiful  hamlets,  to  Como  {Hotel  Vol' 
ta ;  Italia;  Plinius),  a  place  of  25,000  inhab., 
with  statues  of  its  emment  natives,  the  elder  and  the 
younger  Pliny,  and  Yolta,  the  electrician.  See  marble 
Lombard-Gothic  Cathedral  (1396),  with  fine  paintings 
(by  Guide,  Veronese,  etc.)  and  sculptures,  and  vivid 
coloring ;  Ch.  of  Crocefisso,  richly  adorned ;  basilica 
of  S.  Abbondio,  1  M.  out ;  ancient  Porta  del  Torre;  and 
handsome  old  Broletto,  or  town-hall.  Steamers  run 
from  Beilaggio  down  the  picturesque  Lake  of  Lecco,  an 
arm  of  Como,  to  Lecco,  at  the  foot  of  the  high  Rese- 
gone  peaks  (rly.  to  Milan). 

Como  to  Milan,  30  M. ;  If  hrs.  (5^  l,  3 1. 85  c,  21 1.). 

The  Lake  of  Orta,  9  X  I2  M.  in  area,  is  charm- 
ingly  situated  among  the  Piedmontese  hills.  Omnibus 
(2|1.)  from  Arena  to  Orta  {S.  Giulio;  Orta;  Bel- 
vedere), a  marble-paved  hamlet  on  a  promontory,  near 
the  Sacro  Monte,  a  height  dotted  with  chapels,  and 
looking  up  on  Monte  Rosa.  —  The  Lake  of  Iseo  is 
15  X  H  M.  in  area,  winding,  in  S  shape,  among  groves 
of  mulberries  and  figs-  and  gardens  of  roses  and  camel- 
lias. Railway  from  Brescia  (15  M. ;  1 J  hr. :  2 1.  75  c,  1 1. 
90  c,  1  1.  25,c.)  to  Iseo  {Hotel  Leone),  whence  steamer 
to  beautiful  Sarnico  and  Lovers.— l^he  great  Lake  of 
Garda,  37  X  10  M.  in  area,  1,000  ft.  deep,  with  clear 
blue  waters,  abounding  in  fish,  and  very  picturesque 
shores,  is  traversed  by  steamboats,  running  from  Des- 
enzano  (the  home  of  Catullus)  or  Peschiera  (near  the 


302  MILAN. 

battle-field  of  Solferino),  on  the  Milan-Yerona  rail* 
way,  to  Riva  {Hotel  Lido),  a  beautiful  village  at 
the  N.  end. 

The  North  =  Italian  Cities 

Milan  (Hotel  de  la  Yille;  Cavour ;  Milan  ;  Oran 
Bretagna,  all  expensive;  Victoria;  JEuropa;  Manin; 
Roma;  Venezia)  is  a  beautiful  and  enterprising  city 
(490,000  inhab.),  9  M,  around,  in  the  centre  of  the 
rich  Lombard  plain.  It  was  founded  400  b.  c. ;  a 
capital  in  the  3d-century;  sacked  by  Attila  in  452;  a 
Lombard  city  in  568  ;  annexed  by  Charlemagne; 
destroyed  by  Frederick  Barbarossa  in  1162;  rebuilt 
by  the  Lombard  League ;  governed  by  the  Visconti 
and  Sforza  families,  1312-1545;  conquered  by  Francis 
L,  in  1515;  annexed  by  Charles  V.  soon  after,  and 
Spanish  till  1714;  capital  of  Italy,  1805-14;  an  Aus- 
trian garrison,  1814-59 ;  and  since  then  Italian.  Man- 
zoni  was  born  here ;  also  5  popes ;  and  Virgil  studied 
here. 

The  magnificent  Gothic  Cathedral,  second  only  to 
St.  Peter's  and  Seville  Cathedrals  in  size,  was  built 
1386-1500.  It  is  cruciform,  with  double  aisles  and 
transept-aisles,  separated  by  52  pillars,  each  12  ft.  in 
diameter,  with  niches  crowded  with  statues.  Interior 
477  ft.  long,  183  ft.  wide,  and  155  ft.  high.  It  con- 
tains 6,000  statues,  a  pavement  of  marble  mosaic,  vast 
granite  monoliths,  superb  stained  windows,  many 
tombs  of  magnates,  St.  Carlo  Borromeo's  wooden  cru- 
cifix and  gorgeous  tomb,  and  life-size  silver  statues  of 
saints  (in  the  Treasury)o  The  wonderful  marble  roof 
(entered  from  r.  transept,  5  A.  m,  till  dusk,  25  Co), 
with  ninety -eight  Grothic  turrets,  hundreds  of 
pinnacles,  and  over  two  thousands  life-size  marble 
statues  ■ —  some  by  Canova,  — ■  should  be  carefully 
studied  (2-3  hrs.)    Ascend  (at  early  morn)  to,, the 


MILAN.  303 

upper  gallery  of  the  tower  (494  steps),  which  is  360 
ft.  high,  and  view  the  Lombard  plain,  Apennines, 
snd  Alps(Mt.  Cenis,  Blanc,  St.  Bernard,  Kosa,  Mat- 
terhorn,  Mischabel,  Leone,  St.  Gothard,  Spltlgen, 
Ortler,  Spitz,  etc.).  Watchman  here,  with  tele« 
scope. 

Cross  Cathedral  Sq.,  and  enter  the  Victor-Emmanu^ 
Gallery,  the  finest  arcade  in  the  world;  built  in  1865-7 
.It  a  cost  of  $1,600,000  ;  960  ft.  long,  48  wide,  94  high, 
4turrounded  by  handsome  shops;  richly  frescoed ;  and 
idorned  with  statues  of  Raphael,  Galileo,  Dante, 
Cavour,  and  20  other  famous  Italians.  The  octagon 
under  the  dome  (180  ft.  higli)  is  brilliantly  lighted  at 
iiight,  when  it  forms  a  favorite  promenade.  On  the 
adjacent  Piazza  della  Scala,  see  Leonardo  da  Vinci's 
monument  (1872),  the  massive  Municipal  Palace 
(1555),  and  the  great  La  Scala  Theatre,  with  8,600 
sittings  (1  1.  to  see  building  ;  famous  ballets  here,  ia 
season).  Near  by  is  the  Jesuit  ch.  of  San  Fedele 
(1569).  The  Brera,  once  a  Jesuit  college  (1675),  is  a 
great  palace  built  around  a  quadrangle  adorned  with 
statues;  and  contains  a  library  of  300,000  vols.; 
a  celebrated  gallery  (open  daily,  9-4,  1  1. ;  free 
on  Sunday)  of  400  paintings  and  sculptures  (get 
catalogue) . 

The  Piazza  de'Armi,  N.W.  of  Milan,  has  the  Arena 
built  by  Napoleon  I.,  and  holding  30,000  spectators  ; 
the  Castle  of  the  Sforzas,  built  1358  ;  and  the  great 
triumphal  marble  Arch,  ending  the  Simplon  route, 
founded  by  Napoleon  (1804)  to  record  his  victories, 
and  finished  by  Austria  (1830),  with  reliefs  showing 
the  victories  over  France.  Grand  statues  on  summit. 
The  Corso  Vittorio  Emanuele  is  the  chief  business 
street,  and  contains  S.  Carlo  Bovroineo  (a  copy  of  the 
Homan  Pantheon), and  several  palaces.  See  Piazza  dei 
Mercanti,  with  Exchange  and  13th-century  palace  of 
the  Podesta;  Piazza  Beccaria,  with  statue  of  Becc&na; 


304  LA  CERTOSA. 

and  the  Roman,  Garibaldi,  and  Tosa  Gates.     S.  Am'^ 
brogio,  founded  by  St.  Ambrose  (4tli  century),  is  a 
Komanesque  cli.,  rich  in  monuments  of  ancient  Chris- 
tianity, 8th-centiiry  reliefs,  9th-century  mosaics,  Stili- 
cho's  sarcophagus,  the  brazen  serpent  of  Moses.    Here 
Augustine  embraced  Christianity  ;  Ambrose  closed  the 
gates  against  the  Emperor  Theodosius ;  and  the  Lom- 
bard and  German  sovereigns  received  the  Iron  Crown. 
In  the  refectory  (1  1.),  near  the  rich  old  abbey-ch.  of 
S.  Maria  delle  Grazie,  are  the  remains  of  Leonardo  da 
Yinci's  grand  fresco  of  The  Last  Supper.     See  the  4th- 
century  octagonal /S*.  Lorenzo,  and  its  colonnade ;  S.  Maria 
di  S.  Celso,  with  remarkable  paintings,  sculptures,  and 
atrium ;  S.  Maurizio,  with  Luini's  frescos.    The  Am- 
brosian  Library  (open  10-3,  if r.),  founded  (1609)  bys 
Cardinal  Borromeo,  has  175.000  vols.,  15,000  MSS., 
many  literary  curiosities  and  several  hundred  paint- 
ings.    The  Civic  Museum  (i  fr.)  has  large  natural- 
history  collections.  The  Castello  Sforzesco,  restored 
1893,  contains  the  Municipal  Art  and  Archasological 
Museum  (adm.  Ifr.,  Thu.  ifr.,  Sun.  20  c).    See  the 
Ospedale   Maggiore    (1457),  a  vast  hospital  with  9 
courts;  Military  Hospital;  Manzoni's  house;  palaces 
of  Borromeo,   Litta,   Omoneni,  Trivulzio  and  Ciani 
families;    Cemetery,  with  cremation-temple;   Public 
{gardens, -where  Exhibition  of  1881  was  held;  Archbish- 
op's  Palace,  near  Cathedral,  with  fine  court  (1565);  and 
Hoyal  Palace,  adjacent,  with  huge  Napoleonic  frescos. 
La  Certosa  (1  hr.  by  rly.;  31.  20  c,  2  1.  25  c,  1 1. 
60  c),  in  a  fertile  and  populous  plain,  "was  one  of  the 
most  sumptuous  monasteries  in  the  world,  and  be- 
longed to  the  Carthusians.    It  was  founded  in  1396  by 
the  Visconti;  and  here  Francis  I.  was  a,  prisoner  in  1525. 
The  ch.,  with  14  columns,  a  high  dome,  mosaic  floor, 
monuments,   and    frescos,   is   crowded    with   precious 
things.      The   rich   Renaissance   fapade    (1473)  is  in 


PAVIA.— ALESSANDRIA.-TURIN.  305 

colored  marbles,  with  delicate  carvings.     Grand  clois- 
ters, with  slender  marble  pillars  and  monks'  houses. 

Pavia  {Croce  Bianca;  Hotel  Tre  Re)  is  a  little  waj 
S.  (fares from  Milan,  41.  10 c,  21.  85  c.,  2  1.  10  c).  See 
unfinished  Cathedral,  facade  and  dome  built  1898; 
Promenade,  along  Ticino  fliver;  University,  the  old- 
est in  Europe;  old  Romanesque  Cli.  of  St.  Michele^ 
with  Giottesque  frescos,  colossal  statue  of  Ghislierij 
towers  on  the  walls;  and  Castle,  built  1630. 

Pavia  to  Ureiuoua  and  Brescia,  141.  5  c,  91.  85  c, 
71.  5  c.;  to  Piacenza,  61.  85  c.,  41.  80  c.,  31.  45  c. 
Erom  La  Certosa  the  fares  are  71.  40  c.,  51.  20  c.,  31. 
75  c,  to  Alessandria  i^lily.  Restaurant ;  Europa^ 
Londra),  a  huge  fortress  (73,000  inhab.),  whose  ap- 
proaches can  l)e  flooded  in  wartime.  Citadel  built, 
1728,  by  Victor  Amadeo  II.  Hence  in  2i-3  hrs-  (10 1. 
20  c.,  71.  30  c.,  51.  15  c.)  to 

Turin  (Be  la  Ville,  de  Turin,  d' Europe,  Fiorina, 
Central,  de  France,  Roma  e  Rocca  Cavour),  prosper- 
ous city  of  350,000  inh.,  on  the  plain  of  the  Po,  near 
the    Graian   Alps.       It   was    destroyed    by    Haiinibal 
(218  B.C.)  and  Alaric ;  was  a  Roman  colony  ;  a  bishopric 
under  Cliarlemague ;  capital  of  Savoy  and  Sardinia,  and 
of  Italy  (1859-65).     It  is  laid  out  with  Pliiladelphiau 
regularity,  and  surrounded  by  umbrageous  promenades, 
on  site  of  old  walls.     Tlie  Palazzo  Madama  is  a  huge 
mediaeval  pile,  centrally  situated ;  and  once  the  Senate- 
house  of  Italy.      Across    the   Piazza   Castello  is  the 
Moyal  Palace,  a  ponderous  old  brick  building  (usually 
open),  richly  furnished,  and  with  fine  statuary,  library 
(60,000  vols. ;  open  9-4),  and  armory  (daily,  11-3), 
with    Roman,     French    and    Austrian    standards, 
Cellini's  metal-work,  weapons,  armor,  etc.  The  hand- 
some and  busy  Via  di  Po,  with  arcades,  runs  thence 
to  the  Po  bridge.     The  Palace  of  the  Duke  of  Genoa 


306  TURIN.-NOVARA. 

is  connected  with  that  of  the  King.    The  Royal  Oar- 
dens  open  11-5  Sundays  and  holidays,  (music  at  1).    In 
the  Palazzo  delV  Accademia  are  collections  in  natural 
history,  sculptures,  Egyptian  antiquities,  a  library  of 
40,000  vols.,  and  a  gallery  (open  daily ;  get  catalogue) 
of  600  pictures,  many  of  them  of  great  interest.     The 
Cathedral  (1498)  contains  the  Cappella  del  SS.  Sudario, 
a  high-domed  round  chapel  of  brown  marble,  where 
the  sovereigns  of  Savoy  are  buried.     La  Consolata  ch. 
contains  a  revered  image  of  the  Virgin.     The  palaces 
and  arcades  of  the  Piazza  dello  Statute  were  erected  by 
an  English  company,  and  surround  a  memorial  of  the 
Erejus    Tunnel.      There   are'  many  fine   statues   and 
groups  in  the  squares,  honoring  Italian  notables.     The, 
University,  a  vast  Renaissance  palace,  has  1,500  stu-' 
dents,  and  a  library  of  200,000  volumes.     See  Albertina 
Academy  of  Pine  Arts  (open  daily) ;  Municipal  Museum; 
Mouse   of  Tasso ;    house   where   Cavour   died;   Royal 
^Theatre;  Ch.  of  Gran  Madre  di  Dio;  Monumerits  of 
■Cavour,    Victor  Emanuel  and  Philihert;  the  great 
Carignano  Palace;  the  favorite  Public  Garden,  with 
•chateau  of  11  Valentino;  handsome  granite  bridge; 
Arsenal;  Citadel;  Corpus  Domini  ch.,  richly  dec- 
orated; S.  Rocco;  S.  Andrea;   Waldensian  Temple; 
■Capuchin  Monastery  and  the  curious  Mole  AntonelU- 
ana.     The  Cemetery,  1^  M.  N.  E.,  has  tombs  of  Silvio 
Pellico,  Massimo  d'Azeglio,  Glioberti,  etc.     La  Su- 
perga,  on  a  hill  E.  of  Turin,  viewing  city  and  Alps 
(Monte  Rosa),  is  a  splendid  ch.,  built  in  1717,  with 
the  tombs  of  Sardinian  kings.     The  Valleys  of  the  \ 
Waldenses  are  30-40  M.  S.  W.  of  Turin. 

Prom  Turin  you  may  go  to  Milan  (17  1.,  11 1.  90  c, 
8  1.  55  c.)  by  Novara  {Sempione;  Italia),  a  large 
Piedmontese  market-town,  where  Peter  Lombard  was 
born  in  1100.  The  4th  century  Cathedral  has 
columns  of  an  older  pagan  temple. 


BERGAMO.  —  BRESCIA.  307 

Turin  to  Yenice,  257  M. ;  10|-  lirs.,  express;  fares, 
471.  10  c.,  331.  5  c.,  231.  65  c.  Milan  to  Bergamo 
(39  M.;  2  hrs.),  51.  90  c.,  41.  15  c.,  21.  95  c.;  to 
Brescia,  11|^1.,  81.  5  c.,  51.  75  c.;  to  Verona,  181. 
30  c.;  to  Venice,  311.  80  c,  221.  80  c.,  161.  30  c. 
Take  morning  train.  ITine  scenery  and  interesting^' 
cities.  Bergamo  (Italicc)  is  a  prosperous  fortified 
provincial  and  episcopal  capital  (48,000  inliab.).  Aris.. 
tocratic  and  governmental  Old  Town,  on  hill,  with  Cas- 
tle above  it ;  commercial  New  Town  below.  About  the 
Piazza  Garibaldi,  Cathedral,  splendid  Colleoni  Chapel, 
Municipal  Palace,  and  quaint  old  Gothic  Broletto  pal- 
ace. See  very  interesting  Ch.  of  Sla.  Maria  Maggiore 
(1173),  containing  tomb  of  Donizetti;  Accademia 
Carrara,  with  over  200  ancient  paintings ;  vast  build- 
ings, with  600  shops,  for  annual  Pair  (Aug.  15-Sept. 
15).  Excursions  to  Fals  Brembana  and  Seriana,  and 
Lake  of  Iseo. 

Brescia  (JL?5er^o  d' Italia;  Gambero;  Brescia)  makes 
famous  arms,  silks,  cloths  (70,000  iuhab.);  was  a 
Gaulish  town ;  a  Roman  colony ;  Milan's  rival  in  the 
16th  century;  sacked  by  Gaston  de  Foix  in  1512;  a 
Venetian  garrison,  1517-1797 ;  bombarded  by  Aus- 
trians  in  1849.  Beautifully  situated  at  foot  of  the 
Alps,  surrounded  by  walls  and  overlooked  by  a  castle. 
The  Cathedral  (built  1604-1825)  is  of  marble,  with 
vast  dome.  Near  by  is  La  Botonda,  the  old  cathedral 
(9th  century),  round,  with  dome  and  crypt.  See  chs. 
of  S.  Afra,  S.  Clemente,  and  S.  Nazzaro  e  Celso,  rich  in 
pictures ;  Galleria  Tosio  (open  11-3),  13  rooms  full  of 
notable  ^omtin^s ',  Biblioteca  ^werm^aria  (open  11-3), 
i0,000  vols.,  and  rare  literary  curiosities,-  Wuseo 
Patrio  (11-3  daily),  Roman  relics,  in  a  tempie  built 
j)y  Vespasian,  a.d.  72 ;  12th  century  Broletto  and  cam- 
panile;  handsome  Palazzo    Comunale   (15083,    riclily 


308  SOLFERINO.-VERONA. 

carved;   Mediceval  Museum  in  two  old  church 
Lake  of  Garda,  see  page  801. 

The  rly.  to  Venice  passes  Desenzano,  whence  4 1.  by 
carriage  to  Solferino,  where  a  chapel  contains  bones 
of  7,000  soldiers  slain  in  the  battle  (1859) ;  runs  along 
S.  shore  of  Lake  of  Garda,  with  lovely  views; 
through  the  fortress  of  Peschiera ;  to  thriving 

Verona  {Colomba  d'Oro ;  Gran  Hotel  di  Lon- 
dra),  on  the  edge  of  the  Tyrol,  on  a  rich  plain 
(78,000  inhab.).  First  a  Gaulish  town,  350  B.C.;  then 
a  Roman  fortress ;  capital  of  the  Gothic  empire ;  one 
of  Charlemagne's  chief  towns;  a  republic;  capital  of 
the  Scaligers ;  Venetian  appanage  for  300  years ;  Aus- 
trian garrison  (1797-1866)  ;  and  Italian  city.  There 
are  5  bridges  over  the  rapid  Adige.  Verona  is  sur- 
rounded with  formidable  bastioned  walls  and  detached 
castles,  built  by  Austria  and  lately  strengthened  by 
Italy.  Give  a  day  to  its  wonderful  memorials  of 
Romans,  Goths,  Lombards,  and  Carloviugians ;  chs.  of 
rare  interest ;  and  venerable  palaces.  The  Cathedral 
is  a  stately  14tli-century  Gothic  ch.,  with  cloisters  on 
red-marble  columns.  Huge  pillars  inside.  Near  by  h 
the  old  12th-century  Baxdistery  ;  also,  Bishop's  Falace, 
with  colossal  statue  in  courtyard,  and  library.  The 
Piazza  delle  Erbe,  or  fruit-market,  is  a  remarkably 
picturesque  square,  once  the  forum  of  the  Republic,  sur- 
rounded with  frescoed  palaces,  and  containing  a  tall 
marble  pillar  where  once  stood  the  lion  of  Venice,  the 
quaint  Trihuna  (or  judgment-seat),  !;he  Munici^io 
Tower  (330  ft.  high),  and  fountain  with  statue  of 
Verona.  The  adjacent  Piazza  del  Signon,  with  impos. 
ing  Municipio  palace  (1183),  picturesque  court;  La 
Loggia,  or  Palazzo  del  Consiglio  (1500),  with  statues 
of  Catullus,  Cornelius  Nepos,  Pliny,  Vitruvius,  Macer, 
all  natives  of  Verona ;  and  statue  of  Dante.     Near  the 


I 


VERONA.  309 

Ch.  of  Sta.  Maria  Antica  are  the  very  curious  and 
splendid  Gothic  Tombs  of  the  Scaliger  family,  who 
ruled  Verona  1262-1389.  6.  Anastasia  (1261)  is  an 
interesting  Gothic  church,  with  noble  interior.  The 
Arena,  on  one  side  the  Piazza  Vittorio  Emanuele 
(formerly  Bra),  is  a  well-preserved  Roman  Amphi- 
theatre, built  by  Diocletian  or  Trajan,  and  covered 
with  earth  and  houses  in  the  Middle  Ages.  The  73 
arcades  are  leased  to  shop-keepers.  It  is  oval,  1,584 
feet  around  and  106  feet  high,  with  45  tiers,  and  can 
accommodate  95,000  spectators.  The  Porta  de  Bor- 
sari,  a  triumphal  arch  built  by  the  Emperor  Gallie- 
nus  (a.d.  265),  is  on  the  Corso  Cavour.  See  also  two 
arches  of  Roman  bridge ;  an  arch  near  old  citadel; 
and  the  Arch  of  the  Lions. 

S.  Zenone,  in  N.-W.  quarter,  founded  by  Pepin 
(who  was  buried  there),  is  the  finest  mediaeval  church 
with  rich  marble  facade ;  very  curious  sculptures  of 
"Wheel  of  Fortune,  etc. ;  portal  (1178)  resting  on  red- 
marble  lions ;  doors  with  brazen  reliefs ;  a  grandiose 
interior,  with  alternate  pillars  and  columns;  tomb 
and  statue  of  S.  Zeno ;  and  grand  12th-century  clois- 
ters. Near  by,  through  cloisters  of  S.  Bernardino,  is 
Sammicheli's  beautiful  Capella  dei  Pellegrini.  Sam- 
micheli  also  built  the  handsome  Stuppa  Gate  (end  of 
Corso),  towards  the  Castle,  now  an  arsenal,  once  the 
palace  of  the  Scaligers.  The  so-called  Tomh  of  Juliet 
is  a  red- marble  sarcophagus,  much  visited  by  young 
ladies.  See  S.  Fermo  3Iaggiore,  rich  14th-century 
Gothic  ch.  with  walnut  ceilings.  Palazzo  Bevilacqua, 
fagade  by  Saramicheli.  Academia  delle  Belle  Arte 
(1 1.),  in  imposing  Palazzo  Pompei,  with  hundreds  of 
fine  old  Veronese  paintings,  Roman  antiques,  etc. 
Griusti  Garden  (50  c. ) ,  with  cypresses  500  years  old, 
and  commanding  views  of  the  Alps  and  Apennines ; 
Cemetery,  surrounded  by  Doric  colonnade;  ini  the 
great  Castello  S.  Pietro, 


510  ROVEEEDO.  —  MANTUA.  —  CREMONA. 

Excursion  to  Trent,  very  interesting,  and  thence 
down  to  Vicenza,  by  Roveredo  (9,000  iuhab.),  where 
Dante  lived  in  exile.  Verbua  to  Munich  by  the  Bren- 
ner, 63f  l,  47  1.  55  c,  22  1.  15  c.  (see  p.  265). 

From  Verona,  you  can  visit  Mantua  (fares,  4 1.  60  c, 
3 1.  20  c,  21.  30  c.)  and  Modena  (fares,  11 1.  85  c,  8  1., 
5f  1.),  passing  Villafranca,  where  peace  was  made  be- 
tween Trance  and  Austria  in  1859.  Mantua  {Aquila 
d'Oro;  Senoner)  is  a  dull  old  fortress  (30,000 
inhab.),  among  lakes  and  marshes.  Here  Virgil  (born 
3  M.  S.  E.)  lived,  and  Mantegna  and  GiuHo  Romano 
were  born.  See  S.  Andrea  (1472),  a  vast  ch.  with 
many  monuments  and  frescos;  Museo  Civico  in  the  Pal- 
azzo degli  Studii ;  spacious  Cathedral;  old  Ducal  Pal- 
ace (1302),  richly  frescoed  by  Mantegna  and  Romano: 
Accademia  Virgiliana,  with  museum  of  sculpture  (grand 
view  of  Tyrolese  Alps  from  square)  ;  and  Palazzo  del 
Te,  a  huge  palace  outside  the  Forta  Pmterla,  erected 
by  Romano,  and  adorned  with  bis  greatest  frescos. 

From  Milan  to  Mantua  direct,  in  6  hrs.  (fares, 
18 1.  20  c.,  12f  1.,  9  1.  20  c),  by  Cremona  {Capello  ed 
Italifi),  on  the  Po  (36,000  inhab.),  successively  Gaul- 
ish, Roman,  Gothic,  Lombard,  Austrian,  and  Italian, 
and  famous  for  its  violins,  and  now  a  dull  town  of  wide 
streets  and  decaying  palaces.  See  pictures  in  Public 
and  Royal  Palaces  (9-3  daily)  ;  German-Lombard 
Cathedral,  with  rich  fapade  and  interior  crowded  with 
frescos ;  Torrazzo  (1261-84),  a  tower  397  ft.  high, 
with  arcades  to  Cathedral;  and  nobles'  palaces. 

Piacenza  {Italia ;  Ban  Marco)  may  be  reached 
bence  by  tramway  ;  or  by  rly.  from  Milan  (7  1.  80  c, 
51  1.,  3  1.  90  c;  rly.  from  Milan  to  Bologna,  241. 
45  c.,  17  1.  15  c,  12i  1.).  This  town  (35,000  inhab.) 
was  founded  by  the  Romans,  b.  c.  219.  See  13th- 
century    Palazzo   del   Comune,  with    fine    arca.de?. 


VICENZA. — PADUA.  311 

and  equestrian  statues  of  the  Earnese  princes ;  12th* 
century  Romanesque  Cathedral,  frescoed  by  Guercino 
and  Caracci;  S.  Francesco  {127 S),  and  Romaguosi's 
statue ;  S.  Sisto  (1499-1511),  for  which  Raphael 
painted  his  noblest  Madonna  (now  at  Dresden) ;  Palazzo 
Faniese,  built  by  Vigiiolaiu  1558  ;  Citadel  (1547)  ;  and 
8.  Antonino,  quaint  vestibule. 

Rapid  tourists  will  hasteii  from  Verona  to  Venice 
direct,  passing  through-  Vicenza  (T^re  (Trtro/a?^^; 
Roma  J  Gran  Farigi),  a  busy  town  of  44,000  inh., sur- 
rounded with  walls  and  moats,  and  richly  adorned  with 
buildings  designed  by  the  great  Palladio,  a  native  of 
Vicenza  (1518-80),  among  which  are  Gasa  del  Diavolo  ; 
Palazzo  Prefettlzio,  Teatro  Olimpico  (^1.),  etc.  Also 
Basilica,  or  Palazzo  del  Consiglio,  grand  open  arcades 
around  town-hall;  Barbarano,  Tiene,  and  Valmarano 
palaces;  and  Palazzo  Chieregati,  in  which  is  Civio 
Museum  (9-5  daily),  with  many  paintings,  etc.  See 
Palazzo  della  Ragione,  very  rich  Gothic  ;  Greal  Tower 
(1446)  ;  palaces  around  Piazza  de'  Signori  ;  quaint  old 
bridge,  rivalling  the  Rialto  ;  duU  Gothic  Calhedral ;  S. 
Corona,  with  priceless  pictures ;  S.  Lorenzo  ;  BertO' 
liana  Library,  with  rare  MSS. ;  and  Roman  Berga 
Theatre.  On  Mt.  Berici,  pilgrimage-ch.  of  Madonna 
del  Monte  (1428),  approached  by  arcade  of  180  pillars 
(2,145  ft.  loag).  \\  M.  out  is  Villa  Rotonda,  Palladio's 
work,  surrounded  by  Ionic  colonnades. 

Padua  {Stella  d'Oro;  Groce  d'Oro),  a  university  town 
between  Vicenza  and  Venice,  has  80,000  inhab.,  and 
stands  on  a  rich  plain,  embowered  in  gardens.  From 
a  distance  its  domes  and  towers  and  old  bastioned  walls 
and  bastions  present  a  noble  appearance  ;  but  within  it 
appears  almost  deserted.  Its  foundation  is  attributed 
to  Antenor,  after  the  siege  of  Troy ;  and  in  th>3  Augus- 
tan age  it  was  the  chief  eitj  of  North  Italy.     Alaric 


312  PADUA. 

and  Attila  both  sacked  it ;  and  it  was  Venetian,  1402- 
1797.  In  14tli  century,  Padua  had  more  artists  than 
any  city  (Giotto,  etc.).     •  The  Universitys 

founded  in  1238,  was  long  the  best  in  Europe,  with 
18-20,000  students,  Galileo  was  a  professor ;  Dante, 
Petrarch,  and  Tasso  were  students.  It  is  still  famous, 
and  occupies  a  handsome  old  palace,  with  spacious 
arcades.  On  a  promenade  is  a  long  line  of  statues 
(2  by  Canova)  of  illustrious  graduates,  Savonarola, 
Giotto,  etc.  xl  Santo,  the  vast  Ch.  of  S.  Antonio 
(1296-1475),  300  ft.  long  and  123  ft.  high,  is  crowded 
with  paintings,  bronzes  (by  Donatello),  and  monuments 
(Bembo,  Contarini),  and  has  large  cloisters.  Taine  calls 
it  an  Italian-Gothic  building,  decorated  with  Byzantine 
cupolas,  in  which  round  domes,  noble  Greek  towers, 
little  columns  surmounted  by  ogival  arcades,  a  fapade 
borrowed  from  Boman  basilicas,  and  notions  copied 
from  Venetian  palaces  mingle  the  ideas  of  several  centu- 
ries and  countries.  In  front,  see  Donatello's  equestrian 
bronze  statue  of  Gattamelata,  a  Venetian  general ;  and 
on  the  S.,  Scuola  del  Santo,  a  hall  with  famous  frescos 
by  Titian.  8.  Giustina  (1549),  a  stately  ch.,  often  de- 
stroyed and  rebuilt,  with  marble  floor  and  rich  choir- 
stalls.  Near  by,  see  Botanic  Garden  (oldest  in  Europe) ; 
and  huge  old  monastery  (now  a  hospital.)  The  Arena 
Chapel  (1303)  is  filled  with  very  precious  frescos  by 
Giotto  (visit  at  morning,  50  c).  Near  by,  see  Eremitani 
Ch.  (1276-1306), with  monuments,  and  a  chapel  frescoed 
by  Mantegna;  and  Scuola  del  Carmine,  a  baptistery  with 
Titian's  frescos.  See  Cathedral  baptistery  (1260), 
frescoed  in  1380  ;  11th-century  Palazzo  delta  liagione, 
with  immense  hall,  largest  known  single  roof,  and  400 
frescos ;  Palazzo  del  Podesta  and  campanile ;  and  Civic 
Musew^i,  many  paintings  Quiet  old  Padua  may  well 
be  the  object  of  a  day's  excursion  from  Venice. 


TENICE.  313 

Arrive  in  Venice  at  night,  if  possible.  The  last  stat. 
is  Mestre,  whence  the  rly.  crosses  the  Lagoon  on  a 
vast  viaduct.  3  M.  long,  on  232  arches  (built  1841-45  ; 
cost  $1,000,000).  The  passage  by  night  seems  a  flight 
between  sea  and  sky. 

Venice. 

Hotels.  —  Grand  Hotel  Royal  Danieli,  in  Palazzo 
Dandolo;  Europa,  in  Palazzo  Giustiniani;  Britannia,' 

Vittoria;  Orand;  Beaurivage;  Italia;  3Ionaco;Luna; 
Bellemie;  Pension  Suisse;  d  Angleterre;  Accademia; 
Vapore.  Restaurants.  —  Quadri ;  Bauer ;  San 
Marco.  Cafes, — Floriaii;  Svizzero;  SpeccM;  Quadri; 
Giardino  Beale, — all  on  or  near  Piazza  of  St.  Mark. 
Gondolas  (one  rower)  for  1-6  persons,  1 1.  per  trip,  or 
per  hr.  (two  rowers,  double  price) ;  from  steamers  to 
Piazzetta,  40  c.  Baggage  15  c.  each  piece.  Hotels 
To  call  a  gondola,  cry  out  Poppe.  Numerous  small 
steamboats  (vaporetti)  ply  regularly  on  the  canals, 
answering  to  the  street-cars  in  other  cities ;  fare,  5  c. 
and  10  c. 

Venice  is  built  on  117  islands  in  the  Lagoon,  with 
150  canals  and  378  stone  bridges,  and  has  157,000 
inhab.,  in  maritime  pursuits  (commerce  is  increasing), 
and  manufactures  of  books,  mirrors,  jewelry, brocades, 
laces,  and  glass  (one  factory  is  now  1,200  years  old). 
It  is  7M.  around,dividedby  the  Grand  Canal, shaped 
like  an  S,  2  M.  long  and  150-180  ft.  wide.  The  La- 
goon  is  a  shallow  lake,  25x9  M.  in  area,  connected 
with  the  i.driatic  by  4 deep  channels  through  long  and 
narrow  sandbanks,  faced  with  vast  masonry  bul- 
warks. The  main  channels  (23  ft.  deep)  admit  the 
largest  vessels.  The  tide  rises  and  falls  about  Venice. 
A  small  canal  is  called  rio  ;  a  street,  calle  or  lista; 
a  square,  campo;  small  square,  campiello;  blind  alley. 


314  THE  PIAZZA  DI  SAN  MAKCO. 

corte ;  quay,  fondamento,  or  rwa.  Au  adequate  view 
of  Venice  requires  8-10  days  ;  the  cliief  siglits  may  be 
visited  in  4  days.  Eor  sight-seeing,  the  city  may  be 
cut  into  5  parts,  —  the  region  E.  and  S.  of  Grand 
Canal ;  the  Grand  Canal ;  region  N.  and  W. ;  S.  Gior- 
gio and  Giudecca ;  remoter  islands. 

The  Piazza  di  San  Marco  is  a  square,  576  ft. 
long  and  185-270  ft.  wide,  paved  with  gray  trachyte 
and  white  Istrian  marble,  surrounded  by  time-stained 
marble  palaces  and  St.  Mark's  Ch.,  and  the  picturesque 
centre  of  Yenetian  life,  especially  at  evening,  when  the 
bands  play,  and  the  cafes  are  crowded  by  thousands. 
Plocks  of  fat  pigeons  fed  here  by  the  city  at  2  p.m. 
daily  for  700  years.  The  palaces  enclosing  3  sides  are 
the  Frocuratie  Vecchie  (N.  side),  built  15th  century 
for  home  of  the  Procurators  (who  ranked  next  to  the 
Doge),  and  now  used  for  business ;  Frocuratie  Nuove 
(1584),  on  S.  side,  now  the  Royal  Falace ;  aud  Nuova 
Fabbrica  (W.  side,  built  by  Napoleon  in  1810,  and  the 
home  of  Austrian  viceroys  until  1866),  now  connected 
with  Royal  Palace  (handsome  rooms ;  fee,  11.).  The 
palace  arcades  are  occupied  by  cafes  and  bric-a-brao 
shops.  The  vast  isolated  Gothic  Campanile,  dating 
from  the  beginning  of  the  10th  century,  was  322  feet 
in  height.  It  fell  to  the  ground  on  July  14,  1902,  but 
a  new  campanile  is  building,  the  first  stone  having 
been  laid  on  St.  Mark's  day  (April  25),  1903.  The 
pretty  Loggetta  was  destroyed  when  the  camp- 
anile fell,  but  it,  too,  will  be  restored.  The  Clock- 
Tower  (1496),  across  the  Piazza,  at  entrance  of  Mer- 
ceria,  Venice's  chief  business  street,  has  a  huge  beU, 
on  which  two  bronze  Vulcans  strike  the  hours.  The 
3  lofty  cedar  Hagstaffs  between  the  towers  used  to  bear 
the  banners  of  Cyprus,  Candia,  and  the  Morea,  king- 
doms tributary  to  Venice,  __ 


VENICE.  315 

The  Cathedral  of  San  Marco,  on  the  E.  side  of  the 
Piazza,  is  .a  magiiificeut  piece  of  Venetian  Byzantine 
architectiire,  built  in  976-1071,  in  form  of  Greelc  cross, 
with  5  domes,  500  marble  columns,  and  46,000  sq.  ft.  of 
mosaics.  Over  the  portal  are  4  horses  of  gilded  copper, 
of  Roman  workmanship,  brought  from  Constantinople 
by  Dandolo  in  1204 ;  carried  to  Paris,  in  1797,  as  war 
trophies;  and  returned  in  1815.  Below  and  all  around, 
and  in  the  great  entrance  hall,  and  inside,  are  mosaics. 
8  fine  columns  in  vestibule;  also,  3  red  slabs  com- 
memorating the  reconciliation  of  Barbarossa  and  Pope 
Alexander  III.  (1177);  and  the  porphyry  sarcophagus 
of  Daniele  Manin,  last  President  of  Venice  (1848). 
The  interior  —  Gautier's  "a  golden  cavern,  incrusted 
with  precious  stones,  at  once  splendid  and  sombre, 
sparkling  and  mysterious  "  — is  258  X  210  ft.  in  area, 
with  slippery  and  uneven  11th-century  marble  pave, 
ment,  colored-marble  pulpits,  marble  statues  (made  in 
1393)  of  Christ  and  the  Apostles,  Sansovino's  bronze 
statues  of  the  Evangelists,  and  sumptuous  chapels. 
See  high  altar,  with  canopy  of  verde-antico,  over  tomb 
of  St.  Mark  the  Apostle ;  altar  behind  it,  with  4  spiral 
alabaster  columns,  2  of  which  belonged  to  Solomon's 
Temple;  Treasury,  with  Doge  Morosini's  sword,  St. 
Mark's  throne,  a  bit  of  St.  John's  skull,  piece  of  True 
Cross,  etc. ;  Sacristy  (mosaics  and  inlaid  work)  and 
Crypt,  with  64  columns ;  Baptistery,  with  bronze  font 
and  tomb  of  Andrea  Dandolo  (1354)  ;  Zen  Chapel,  with 
magnificent  tomb,  altar,  and  statuary;  Sansovino's 
bronze  door,  leading  to  Sacristy ;  etc. 

Tlie  Piazzetta  is  a  small  square,  running  from  S. 
Marco  to  tlie  Lagoon,  on  which  stand  2  granite  columns, 
brought  from  Syria  in  1120,  and  supportuig  statues  of 
St.  Theodore  and  the  Winged  Lion  of  St.  Mark.  On 
one  side  is  the  finely  sculptured  Libreria  Vecchia,  built 


316     DOGES'  PALACE. — AKSENAL. 

by  Sansovino  in  1582,  and  now  part  of  Royal  Palace 
The  great  ball  was  frescoed  by  Veronese,  for  wbich 
Yenice  gave  liim  a  gold  collar.  Alongside  is  tbe  old 
Mint,  back  of  which  is  the  Royal  Garden.  Opposite 
is  the  Doges'  Palace,  with  fapade  246  ft.  long,  and 
fapade  of  234  ft.  toward  the  sea.  It  was  built  in  800, 
and  5  times  destroyed  and  re-erected.  Most  of  present 
palace  dates  from  1350.  The  red  and  white  marbles, 
Oriental  designs,  and  Venetian- Gothic  arches,  combine 
very  richly.  36  columns  in  lower  arcade,  and  71  above, 
in  the  rich  Loggia,  with  quaint  capitals.  Ascend  San- 
sovino's  Giants'  Staircase,  between  colossal  statues  of 
Mars  and  Neptune,  where  the  doges  were  crowned ; 
and  observe  beautiful  court,  with  statues,  cisterns,  and 
jpart  of  Silvio  Pellico's  cell.  Inside,  see  Sansovino's 
■Golden  Staircase ;  Hall  of  Great  Council,  165  X  84  ft., 
with  portraits  of  76  doges,  21  vast  old  historical  pic- 
tures, and  Tintoretto's  "Paradise;"  Sala  del Scrutinio, 
39  doges'  portraits,  and  many  paintings  ;  Library, 
with  famous  MSS. ;  Archaeological  Museum.,  5  rooms  of 
ancient  marble  sculptures ;  Sa.la  delta  Bussola ;  Hall 
of  Council  of  Ten;  and  many  others,  crowded  with 
paintings,  and  rich  in  historical  associations.  'Obliging 
.guardians  in  all  rooms,  with  plans,  etc. 

The  Molo,  headquarters  of  gondoliers,  is  connected 
with  the  busy  quay  of  the  Riva  dei  Schiavoni  by  a 
bridge,  whence  good  view  of  Bridge  of  Sighs,  leading 
from  the  Palace  to  the  Prison  (1512-97),  and  made 
famous  by  Byron  (Ruskin  blames  his  "  ignorant  senti- 
•mentalism  ").  You  may  visit  the  Pozzi,  low  dungeons 
where  state-prisoners  were  deprived  of  light  and  (almost) 
of  air ;  and  see  where  the  political  executions  occurred, 
^and  bodies  were  given  to  the  gondoliers.  In  the 
Arsenal  (open  10-4),  founded  1104,  were  built  tne 
fleets  of  the  Crusaders.     16.000  men  were  once  em« 


VENICE.  617 

ployed  here  (now  2,000).  At  portal,  4  marble  lions, 
brought  from  Greece  in  1697,  one  of  which  is  said  to 
have  stood  on  Marathon.  See  military  museum,  Bu- 
centaur,  rare  weapons,  Henri  IV.'s  armor,  Attila's 
helmet,  etc. 

Take  gondola  and  visit  chs.  E.  and  N.  of  Grand 
Canal.  People  help  yon  ashore  at  landings,  and  expect 
a  penny.  The  great  Italian-Gothic  Oh.  of  Santi  Gio- 
vanni e  Paolo  is  the  Venetian  Pantheon,  filled  with 
imposing  raausolenms  of  doges,  statesmen,  and  warriors 
(see  those  of  Moceuigo,  Bragadino,  the  Valiers,  Ven- 
dramin,  and  Ginstiniani),  and  valuable  old  pictures  and 
statues.  In  S.  transept  is  a  window  of  stained  glass 
(1473),  which  is  rare  in  Venice.  The  ch.  was  founded 
in  1240 ;  and  the  funerals  of  the  doges  always  took 
place  here.  Ou  adjacent  square,  see  ancient  equestrian 
statue  of  Colleoni,  a  Venetian  general.  Close  by  is  the 
richly  carved  Scuola  di  S.  Marco  (1485),  once  head- 
quarters of  a  charitable  society,  now  part  of  vast  hospi- 
tal. To  S.  Zaccaria  (1457),  a  Romanesque  ch.,  with 
paintings  by  BeUiui,  the  doges  nsed  to  go  in  solemn 
procession  at  beginning  of  Lent.  S.  Stefano,  where 
Lnther  once  said  Mass,  is  14th-centQry  Gothic,  with 
many  statues  and  a. beautiful  cloister  adjacent.  See, 
in  S.  Maria  del  Orto  (14S1),  splendid  Tintorettos; 
S.  Salvatore  (1534),  remarkable  pictures  ;  S.  Maria  del 
Miracoli  (1480),  a  Byzantine  Renaissance  ch.,  encased 
in  marble,  with  rich  vaulting  ;  Gli  Scalzi  (1649),  mag- 
nificent ch.  of  Carmelites,  overladen  with  decorations  of 
the  Decadence;  S.  Francesco  delta  Vigna  (1534),  rich 
carvings  and  chapels  of  nobles  ;  S.  Fietro  di  Castello, 
Venice's  cathedral  from  1596  to  1807,  with  a  fine  cam- 
panile. A  second  trip  may  include  the  chs.  S.  and  W. 
of  the  Grand  Canal-.  S.  Maria  della  Salute  (1631), 
whose  high  dome  is  conspicuous  in  pictures  of  Venice, 


318  FRARI. — GRAND  CANAL. 

a  sumptuous  ch.,  witli  many  statues  and  paintiugs, 
adjoining  Patriarchal  Seminary  (with  rich  library  and 
pictures)  ;  S.  Sehastiano  (1506),  with  tomb  (see  Latin 
epitaph)  of  Paul  Veronese,  and  several  of  his  paintings, 
and  organ  designed  by  him  ;  8.  Pantaleone  (1668), 
very  ancient  paintings;  8.  Oiovcnini Elemosinario  {).b9-7), 
nearE-ialto;  S  Giacometto  (820),  a  venerable  basilica. 
The  vast  Italian-Gothic  Frari,  or  Franciscan  ch.  (1250), 
contains  many  famous  works  of  art,  costly  modern 
monument  of  gray  marble  to  Titian,  tombs  of  Canova 
(designed  by  himself)  and  of  several  doges  and  generals. 
In  monastery  adjacent  300  rooms  contain  14,000,000 
documents,  some  dating  from  883.  S.  Bocco  (1490, 
rebuilt  1725)  has  fine  paintings.  Alongside  is  the  splen- 
did Pteuaissance  Scuola  di  8.  Rocco  (1415-1550),  crowd, 
ed  with  pictures  by  Tintoretto  (now  sombre  in  tone), 
and  with  beautiful  fapade,  staircase,  and  great  halls. 
This  council-hall  of  charity  is  grouped  with  the  Pisan 
Campo  Santo  and  the  Sjstine  Chapel,  by  art-lovers. 

The  Grand  Canal  sliouIH'"be  traversed  by  gondola, 
between  its  lines  of  famous  palaces.  On  the  1.,  see 
Bog  ana  (Custom-House),  with  statue  of  Portuna  on 
tower ;  r.,  Palazzo  Giustiniani  (Hotel  Europa)  and 
Emo-Trhves  (with  Canova's  Hector  and  Ajax;  fee, 
IL).  On  the  1.,  Patriarchal  Seminary  and  S.  Maria 
della  Salute.  Thence  the  canal  passes  between  palaces 
Tiepolo  (Hotel  Barbesi),  Contarini,  Perro,  Pini-Wimp- 
ifen,  Corner  della  Ca  Grande,  and  Barbaro,  on  the  r., 
and  Dario-Angarani,  Venier,  Da  Mala^  and  Zichy- 
Esterhazy,  on  the  1.,  and  then  between  Count  Cham- 
bord's  splendid  Palazzo  Cavalli  (r.)  and  the  vast  Palazzo 
Manzoni-Angarini  (1.)  and  under  an  iron  bridge- 
Close  to  this,  on  1.,  is  the  Accademia  delle  Belie 
Arti  (daily,  9-4 ;  50  c.;  buy  catalogue),  with  700  fin© 
^piistures,  mainly  by  Venetian  masters,  Titian,  Bellini, 


VENICE.  319 

Giorgione,  Palma,  etc.,  with  some  modern  works,  and 

many  drawings  by  Kaphael  and  Angelo,  in  noble  old 

monastic    halls.     This  is  one  of  the   great  siglits   of 

Venice.     Beyond  (1.),  see  Falazzi  Contarini,  Rezzonico, 

Qiustiniani,  Foscari   (here    the  canal  bends),  Balbi, 

Pisani,  etc.,  and  on  r.,  Falazzi  Grassi,  Moro-Lin,  Con- 

tarini,  and  Mocenigo,  the  latter  a  triple  palace,  in  which 

Byron  wrote  parts  of  Don  Juan,  etc.  (1818),  and  where 

now  is  an  art-colleetion.     Farther  on  (r.  .,  see  Palazzi 

.  Corner  Spinelli,  Cavallini,  Grimani(Corte  d'Appello), 

'Farsetti  (towM-liall),  12th-century  Loredan  (once  iiome 

of  King  of  Cyprus),  Dandolo  (Gothic),  Bembo,  and 

Manin  (uow  National  Bank).     Then,  half-way  through 

the  canal,  comes  the  famous 

Rialto,  a  bridge  of  one  Istrian-marble  arch  (15S8- 
91),  covered  with  sliops,  and  running  from  the  fruit- 
market  to  the  fish-market.  Below  (1.),  see  llenaissance 
Falazzo  de  Gamerlenghi  (153;3),  opposite  ponderous 
Fondaco  de'  Tedeschi,  built  1506  (frescoed  by  Titian}  for 
a  German  warehouse.  Beyond  Kialto,  Fescheria(S^^\L- 
market),  on  1.  ;  Palazzi  Michieli  and  Sagredo,  on  r. ; 
Falazzo  Corner  delta  Regina  (uow  pawn-office),  on  site 
of  Catharine  Cornaro's  home  (1,).  Nearly  opposite  is 
the  Ga  d'Oro,  Ruskin's  favorite,  and  a  very  noble  palace. 
The  Palazzi  Pontaua  and  Grimani  are  beyond  (r.) ; 
also,  Palazzo  Pesaro  (1.),  whose  rich  halls  are  open 
daily  (1 1.)  Nearly  opposite  each  other,  see  Falazzo 
Vendramin  Gale rg hi,  the  magnificent  modern  palace  of 
Couut  de  Ciiambord  (open  daily,  11.),  and  the  Fondaco 
de'  Ttirchi,  once  headquarters  of  Turkish  merchants 
(here  see  Gorner  Museum,  open  Wed.  and  Sat.,  12-4, 
with  MSS.  and  paintings  about  Venetian  history). 
At  the  Palazzo  Labia  the  Canareggio  diverges  to  the 
r.  It  contains  the  Palazzo  Manfrln,  with  large  picture- 
gallery  (open  10-3,  I  1.).    Beyond  iron  bridge  and  rly. 


320  S.  LAZZARO.  —  MURANO. 

stat.,  the  Grand  Canal  enters  the  Lagoon,  by  the 
island  of  S.  Chiara.  Near  the  stat.  are  the  famous 
Papadopoli  and  Botanical  gardens.  The  theatres  are 
the  Venice,  seating  3,000  people,  Goldoni,  Hossmi, 
Marionette,  and  Malibran.  See  Tintoretto's  house, 
in  the  Campo  dei  Mori;  and  Titian's  house,  in  the 
Sanciano.  Just  S.  of  the  city  are  the  islands  of  La 
Giudecca,  with  Palladios Redentore  ch.  (Franciscan); 
and  S.  Giorgio  Maggiore,  with  a  great  Benedictine 
monastery,  cruciform  ch.  by  Palladio,  full  of  art- 
treasures,  and  campanile  which  gives  superb  view. 
Rather  shabby  Public  Gardens,  S.E.  part  of  city. 
2  M.  S.  E.  is  the  island  of  S.  Lazzaro,  with  great 
Armenian  monastery. 

The  islands  were  first  colonized  by  fugitives  from 
the  mainland  towns,  ravaged  by  Attila.  In  697  the 
first  doge  was  chosen;  and  in  819  the  present  site  of 
Venice  became  a  capital.  During  the  Crusades  the 
republic  grew  rapidly,  and  conquered  the  coasts  and 
islands  of  the  Adriatic  and  Levant,  For  300  years  its 
power  was  vast,  and  Venice  was  Europe's  chief  port. 
In  1508  its  star  began  to  wane.  By  1718  it  was  quite 
decadent.  In  1797. the  French  captured  the  city, 
which  was  afterwards  annexed  to  Austria.  In  1866 
it  became  Italian. 

Excui^sions. — To  the  Lido  (ihr.  by  gondola;  60  c. 
to  go  and  return;  steamer  in  12min.,  30c,),  the  beach 
on  the  Adriatic,  with  fine  baths  (la  Favorita,  1 1.)  and 
summer-hotels.  —  To  Malamocco,  at  S,  end  of  Lido ; 
and  Chioggia  (steamer,  1^-21.),  30  M.  S.,  an  ancient 
lagoon-town  (27,000  inhab.), — To  the  Cemetery,  on  2 
islands  to  the  N,,  with  S,  Michele  ch,  (1466).  Funeral 
processions  of  gondolas  very  interesting. — To  Murano 
(4, 000 inhab,),  li  M.  N,,  with  famous  glass  and  mosaic 
factories,  museum  of  old  glass  (40  c),  a  magnificent 
Cathedral  (11111  and  ch.  of  S,  Fietro  e  Faolo  (1509), 


FERRAKA.  321 

a  noble  and  simple  basilica.  The  Murano  school  of 
art  preceded  that  of  Venice. —  To  Torcello,  6  M.  N.  E. 
(2  hrs.  by  gondola),  once  rich  and  great,  now  poor  and 
depopulated,  but  with  a  wonderful  7th-century  Cathe- 
dral, famous  for  grand  mosaics ;  an  octagonal  Baptis- 
tery (1008) ;  and  8.  Fosea,  a  strange  12th-century 
Byzantine  ch.,  surrounded  by  arcades. 

Steamers,  Tues.,  Thurs.,  and  Sat.  at  midnight  for 
Trieste  (7  hrs.;  fares,  12  1.  60;  8 1.  40.  Rly.  Venice 
to  Trieste,  5|  hrs.  (fares,  27  fr.  40;  19  fr.  65). 

Ferrara,  Bologna,  Modena,  and  Parma. 

It  is  ICl  M.  (fares,  19  1.  45  c,  141.  5  c,  101.)  from, 
Venice  through  venerable  Padua;  Rovigo  {Corona 
Ferrea  and  other  hotels),  with  its  vast  palace  and  pic- 
ture-gallery ;  and  Ferrara,  to  Bologna.  Ferrara 
{Europa;  Stella  d'Oro;  Pellegrino) ,  in  a  miasmatic 
plain  near  the  Fo,  has  shrunk  from  100,000  to  79,000 
inhab.,  and  has  many  wide  empty  streets  and  crumbling 
palaces.  In  the  golden  era  of  the  House  of  Este 
(1300-1600)  it  was  famous  for  art  and  letters,  and 
Ariosto  and  Tasso  lived  at  its  court.  See  Lombardic 
Cathedral  (1135),  imposing  fa9ade,  many  pictures,  and 
handsome  campanile  (1550)  ;  S.  Benedetto,  with  paint- 
ing of  Paradise,  in  which  Ariosto  had  his  portrait  in- 
troduced ;  S.  Francesco,  several  domes ;  S.  Maria  in. 
Vado,  very  ancient ;  S.  Paolo ;  monuments  to  Ariosto 
and  Savonarola;  houses  of  Ariosto  and  Guarini;  Vni' 
versity,  with  library  of  100,000  vols.  (MSS.  of  Pastor 
Fido,  and  parts  of  Gerusalemme  and  Orlando  Furioso)y 
museum,  and  tomb  of  Ariosto;  St.  Anna's  Hospital^ 
where  Tasso  was  imprisoned  7  years  in  a  cell,  since 
visited  by  Byron,  Lamartine,  and  Goethe ;  and  Pa- 
lazzo de'  Biamanti  (1493-1567),  with  the  Civic  Pictur©' 

31 


83^  BOLOGNA. 

Gallery  (open  9-3,  free),  8  rooms  filled  with  ancient 
paintings.  The  Castle  is  a  huge  old  square  fortress, 
in  the  centre  of  Ferrara,  with  4  towers,  deep  moats  and 
frescoed  halls.  Is  the  scene  of  Byron's  tragic  Parisina. 
Bologna. (Hotel  Brnn.;  Q-rand  Hotel  d^Italie;  Pelle- 
grino),  capital  of  Romagna  (145,000  inh.)  stands  on 
a  rich  plain  near  the  Apennines,  and  is  surrounded  by 
brick  wall,  3-4  M.  around,  with  12  gates.  An  Etruscan 
town ;  conquered  by  Gauls ;  allied  with  Carthage ; 
occupied  by  Rome,  e.g.  190;  then  Greek,  Lombard, 
Frank  ;  a  free  town  under  Charlemagne ;  anti-imperiai 
(Guelph)  ;  annexed  to  States  of  the  Church  in  1512, 
and  to  Italy  in  1859.  Its  splendid  Roman  temples, 
theatres,  and  baths  were  swept  away  by  the  barbarians. 
It  was  the  seat  of  the  art-school  of  the  Caracci ;  aud 
the  home  of  Eraucia,  Albano,  Domenichino,  (jruido 
Reui,  and  Guercino  (see  houses  of  last  two  ;  and  of 
Rossini,  the  composer,  a  native  of  Bologna).  S. 
Petronio  (1390)  is  a  vast  Tuscan-Gothic  cli.  (half 
iinished),  384  ft.  long,  156  ft.  wide,  with  many  rich 
chapels,  mural  paintings,  and  sculptures.  Fapade  has 
many  sculptures  (made  1394-1525)  of  biblical  sub- 
jects. Michael  Angelo's  statue  of  Pope  Julius  II.  was 
broken  in  pieces  by  the  people  (1511).  Charles  V, 
was  crowned  Ernperor  here  (1530).  S.  Domenico 
contains  splendid  tomb  of  St.  Dominic,  with  sculptures 
by  Michael  Angelo ;  and  tombs  of  Guido  Reni  and 
Elisabetta  Sirani.  The  University  is  in  Palazzo 
Gelled,  with  1,400  students  ;  library  of  150,000  vols, 
(open  9-3),  once  conducted  by  Mezzofanti ;  large 
museums  of  geology,  antiquities,  etc.  It  dates  from 
1119,  and  once  had  10,000  students,  and  several  female 
professors.  The  Academy  of  Pine  Arts  (open  9-3.30; 
1 1.)  is  one  of  the  most  famous  in  Italy,  and  has. 
Raphael's  St.  Cecilia.  The  Musm  Civico  is  in  the 
Palazzo  Galvani  (1  fr.,  Sun.  and  holidays  free). 


BOLOGNA.  323 

See,  in  S.  Bartolommeo,  horrible  portrayal  of 
martyrdom  of  St.  Bartholomew;  S.  Cecilia  (1481), 
frescos  by  Francia,  and  nunnery  of  St.  Catherine 
Vigri;  S.  Stefano,  a  group  of  7  chs.,  with  rare  old 
Celestine  cloister ;  S.  Giovanni  in  Monte  (a.J).  433), 
precious  paintings;  S.  Vitale  (a.d.  428),  lately  re- 
stored; and  other  very  notn,ble  and  ancient  chs. 
Also,  Palazzo  Puhlico  (1290),  ancient  frescos, 
statues,  chapel,  and  Bramante's  staircase;  Palazzo 
del  Podestd  (1201),  where  King  Enzio,  son  of  the 
Emperor,  was  imprisoned  many  years;  Oploteca, 
museum  of  weapons;  leaning  towers  of  Asinelli 
(1109;  272  ft.  high;  grand  view  of  mts.)  and  Gari- 
senda  {1110;  mentioned  in  Dante's  Inferno)-,  Archi- 
ginnasio  (1572),  town  library  (open  10-4),  museum  of 
antiquities,  Galvani's  anatomical  lecture-room;  Pa- 
lazzo Bentivoglio,  16th  century,  on  site  of  old  Castle; 
Palazzo  Fava,  and  Collegio  di  Spagna  (1364),  frescos 
by  Caracci ;  Loggia  de'  Mercanti  (1294),  venerable 
Gothic  exchange;  Piazza  Vittorio  Emanuele,  and  S. 
Domenico,  fountain  and  statues;  Palazzo  Pepoli 
(1344),  vast  and  imposing ;  Palazzo  Zampieri,  with 
great  picture-gallery  (i  1.) ;  and  many  other  palaces. 

La  Montagnola  is  a  plateau  and  public  garden, 
with,  views  of  Bologna  and  the  Appenines.  f  M.  S. 
is  S.  Michele  in  Bosco,  orthopedic  institute,  for- 
merly convent  founded  by  St.  Basil  in  4th  century, 
in  whose  ch.  and  cloisters  Guido  and  the  Caracci 
left  noble  paintings.  2^  M.  S.-W.  is  the  Madonna 
di  S.  Luca,  a  pilgrimage-ch.  on  strongly  fortified 
hill,  approached  by  arcade  1  M.  long  (635  arches; 
100  years  in  building),  and  viewing  Apennines 
and  Adriatic.  It  contains  portrait  of  the  Virgin, 
ascribed  to  St.  Luke,  brought  from  Constantinople 
in  1160.  Ou  the  way  hither,  visit  La  Certosa,  a 
Carthusian  monastery  (1335),  whose  cloisters  now  con- 
i,ain  very  interesting  Campo  Santo  (cemetery),  with 


334  MODENA.  —  PARMA. 

rich  monuments,  a  statue-adorned  rotunda,  and  a  col- 
ossal lion  commemorating  the  martyrs  for  liberty. 

If  yoTi  intend  going  S.  to  E-ome,  and  thence  N. 
along  the  Mediterranean,  it  is  well  to  make  a  side- 
trip  from  Bologna  to  Modena  (23  M.)  and  Parma 
(54  M.). 

Modena  {Albergo  Reale;  S.  Marco),  an  ancient 
ducal  capital  (58,000  inhab.),  was  once  an  important 
Roman  town, where  Antony  besieged  Brutus  (b.c.  43), 
on  the  Via  Emilia,  from  Rome  to  the  N.  A  stately 
city,  surrounded  with  ramparts,  on  which  are  prome- 
nades. See  Cathedral  (1099-1184),  with  Arthurian 
sculptures  (1100),  rose-window,  monumental  tombs, 
and  lofty  colonnaded  crypt ;  renowned  Campanile^ 
called  La  Ghirlandina  (1224-1319),  335  ft.  high,  en- 
cased in  white  marble, with  wooden  bucket  taken  from 
the  Bolognese  in  1325  (Tassoni,  who  wrote  a  poem 
about  it,  has  a  statue  near  by) ;  S.  Michele,  in  which 
Muratori  is  buried;  Begarelli's  Pieta,  which  Michael 
Angelo  praised;  JPiiblic  Gaa^deiis;  and  ramparts,  with 
views  of  Appenines.  The  vast  and  msignificentPalazzo 
Reale  (formerly  Ducal  Palace)  has  noble  fagade  on 
Piazza  Reale,  and  a  courtyard  surrounded  by  colon- 
nades. See  Library,  120,000  vols,  and  3,000  MSS. 
(14th-century  edition  of  Dante);  cabinets  of  medals 
and  gems,  and  archives;  large  gallery  of  pictures  (open 
9-3),  many  of  which  are  copies,  a  fact  which  the 
catalogue  omits  to  state. 

Parma  ( Croce  Bianca;  Concordia;  Italia),  founded 
by  the  Etruscans;  became  Roman,  b.c.  183;  was 
Lombardic,  a  city  of  Charlemagne,  of  the  Holy  See,  a 
Guelphic  stronghold;  seat  of  the  Farnese  princes, 
1545-1731;  and  capital  of  Duchy  from  1815  until 
1859,  when  it  fell  to  Italy  (45,000  inhab.).  The  Ro- 
man Via  Emilia  cuts  through  its  centre;  and  dreary, 
«leut  streets  diverge  on  both  sides.     Parma  is  sur- 


EEGGIO.  —  E  A  VENN  A.  325 

rounded  by  great  walls,  "with  5  gates  and  a  strong 
citadel.  See  Romanesque  Cathedral  (13  century), 
with  notable  crypt,  rich  monuments,  and  Correggio's 
vast  and  world-renowned  fresco  of  The  Assumption; 
Baptistery  (1196-1270),  octagonal  marble  ch.,  with 
colonnades,  quaint  carvings,  old  frescos ;  S.  Giovanni 
Eoangelisfa  (1510),  remarkable  frescos  by  Correggio 
in  dome  and  cloisters  ;  Madonna  delta  Steccafa  (1521), 
fine  frescos,  and  tombs  of  notables ;  Convent  of  S. 
Paolo  (50  c),  with  Correggio's  famous  lunettes  and 
Diana;  Farnese  Theatre  (50c.);  Stradone,  promenade 
near  citadel ;  and  Public  Garden,  with  an  old  Farnese 
chateau,  richly  frescoed.  The  Ducal  Palace  (Farnese), 
founded  1597,  lias  museums  of  antiquities  and  pictures 
(open  9-4 ;  11.),  with  many  famous  works  of  Correggio 
and  the  Caracci,  including  Correggio's  Scala  and  Sco- 
della  Madonnas  and  St.  Jerome  (II  (jiorno).  The  Library 
bus  206,000  vols.,  and  many  Oriental  MSS.  Picturesque 
old  road  from  Parma  to  La  Spezia,  on  Gulf  of  Genoa. 

Reggio  (Posta^,  between  Parma  and  Modena, 
(50,000  inhab.),  with  notable  walls,  citadel,  theatre, 
and  cathedral,  fine  chs.,  and  Ariosto's  birthplace,  is  9 
M.  from  Correggio,  the  great  artist's  birthplace ,  and 
4  hrs.  drive  from  rains  of  Canossa,  where  Henry  lY. 
of  Germany  performed  penance  befo'e  Pope  Gregory 
YII.  (1077). 

Ravenna,  Rimini,  Ancona,  Brindisi, 
and  Taranto. 

From  Bologna  it  is  52i  M.  (9^1.,  61.  70  c.,  41. 
80  c")  to  "RsL'^enna  ((Byron;  Spada'd'Oro),  a  Thes- 
salian  colony,  once  capital  of  Roman  empire;  captured 
by  Odoacer  and  Theodoric;  capital  of  the  Gothic  kings, 
493-552  ;  thence  for  200  years  capital  of  Exui-cIj.'^-  c^r 


326  RAVENNA. — DANTE'S  TOMB. 

governors  sent  by  Greek  emperors ;  taken  by  Lom- 
bards, and  by  Pepin  of  France,  who  gave  it  to  tlie 
Pope ;  Yenetian  garrison,  1440-1509  ;  and  attached  to 
States  of  the  Church,  1509-1860.  It  is  now  a  dreamy 
town  of  62,000  inhab.,  very  rich  in  early  Christian  art; 
and  5  M.  from  the  Adriatic,  of  which  it  was  once  a 
cliief  port.  Dante's  Tomb  (1482),  a  dome-covered 
structure,  with  carvings,  contains  the  ashes  (discovered 
in  1865  in  ch.  of  S.  Francesco)  of  the  poet,  who 
died  here,  in  exile  and  under  excommunication,  in  1321. 
Byron  lived  at  Ravenna  2  years,  and  wrote  several 
great  poems.  See  site  of  the  house  wh'^re  Dante 
lived;  in  Piazza  Vittoria  EmanueU,  tall  columns  with 
statues,  erected  by  the  Yenetians  in  1494,  and  colon- 
nade of  old  basilica;  Cathedral,  on  site  of  4th-century 
ch.,  with  8th-century  minaret-like  campanile,  6th-cen- 
tury  tombs,  and  silver  crucifix,  and  paintings  by  Guido  ; 
4th-century  octagonal  Bajptistery,  with  5th-century 
font  and  mosaics  (Baptism  of  Christ,  etc.)  ;  ArcJiiepisco- 
pal  Palace,  5th -century  chapel,  25,000  parchments  in 
archives ;  S.  Apollinare,  built  in  500  by  Theodoric  for 
the  Arians,  and  given  by  Justinian  to  the  Catholics, 
with  round  campanile,  24  columns  from  Constantinople, 
and  many  Bth-century  mosaics  ;  S.  Vita-le,  consecrated 
in  547  by  St.  Maximian,  copied  from  S.  Sophia,  at 
Constantinople,  octagonal,  with  massive  pillars,  many 
beautiful  and  brilliant  mosaics  of  Justinian's  time, 
Greek  and  Roman  reliefs,  and  a  dome  of  eartheu  vases 
bound  together ;  Mausoleum  of  G-alla  Placidia,  built 
440  by  Empress  Galla  Placidia,  small  domed  cruciform 
c!i.,  with  mosaics,  and  sarcophagi  of  Honorius  and 
Constantius  III.'  (the  only  Roman  emperors  whose 
tombs  remain  undisturbed)*,  Academi)  of  Fine  Arh 
(75  c),  pictures  by  Ravennese  masters,  vases,  bronzes  ; 
Library  (open  9-2)  of  50,000  vols.,   and  many  rare 


RIMINI.  —  SAN   MARINC.  327 

MSS.,  in  old  Monastery  of  Classe,  wliich  has  frescoed 
refectory ;  *S'.  Niccolb  (760),  now  deserted ;  S.  Gio- 
vanni Eoangelisfa  (444 j,  near  rly.  stat.,  24  antique  col- 
umns, and  frescos  by  Giotto  ;  remains  of  Palace  of 
Theocloric  ;  and  many  other  old  chs.  and  great  palaces. 

Outside  the  Porta  Serrata  is  the  tomb  of  Theodorio 
the  Great  (530),  a  ponderous  structure  (now  a  ch.) 
covered  with  a  block  of  Istrian  stone  36  ft.  in  diameter. 
S.  Maria  in  Porta  Fiiori,  2^  M.  out,  is  an  open-roofed 
basilica  (1096).  S.  ApoUinare  in  Classe  (a..d.  534), 
3  M.  out,  is  a  magnificent  basilica,  with  24  cipolline 
columns,^  open  roof,  6tli-century  mosaics,  a  noble  altar, 
and  portraits  of  126  bishops  of  Havenua,  from  St. 
ApoUiuaris  (martyred  a.d.  74)  to  the  present.  Beyond 
is  La  Pineta,  tde  famous  and  venerable  pine-forest, 
known  to  the  Romans,  praised  by  Byron,  Boccaccio, 
Dante,  etc.,  and  covering  many  leagues.  Highway 
along  coast  to  Rimini,  31  M. 

The  rly.  S.  E.  from  Bologna  traverses  Imola  ;  Castel 
Bolognefie ;  Faenza  {Corona;  Vittoria),  a  walled 
town  of  20,000  Inhab.,  with  great  citadel  and  potteries 
(whence  Faience) ;  Forli  (17,000  inhab.),  at  foot  of 
Apennines,  with  line  cathedral  and  castles;  Cesena  with 
handsome  palaces  and  rare  library;  Rimini  {Leon 
d'Oro;  Aquila  d'Oro),  a  pretty  city  (33,000  inh.)  and 
summer  resort  on  the  Adriatic,  with  magnificent  class- 
ical cathedral,  dilapidated  Malatesta  Palace,  Roman 
triumphal  arch  and  bridge,  and  house  of  Francesca  da 
Rimini  (25  1.  for  carriage  tlience,  15  M.,  to  San  Marino, 
capital  of  Republic  of  same  name,  the  oldest  govern- 
ment in  Europe).  The  rly.  follows  the  Adriatic  to 
Pesaro,  birthplace  of  Rossini,  where  there  are  fine 
chs.,  a  rich  library,  and  the  old  Palace  of  Dukes  of 
Urbino,  once  a  brilliant  literary  centre.  Here  Tasso 
wrote  the  Amadis.     Diligence  in  6  hrs.  {2\\  M.)  to 


328  ANCONA.  —  PISTOJA. 

Urbino  (JtaMa),  a  town  of  16,000  iiihab.,  surrounded 
by  sombre  mts.  Raphael's  birthplace  is  shown ;  also, 
grand  Renaissance  Ducal  Palace,  and  chs.  ricli  in  art. 

Ancona  {La  Pace  ;  Vitforia^  is  built  on  an  amphi^ 
theatrical  hillside  facing  the  Adriatic,  and  has  46,000 
inhab.,  with  high-placed  semi-Oriental  cathedral  (col- 
umns from  the  Temple  of  Venus),  colossal  statue  of 
Cavour,  liandsome  palaces,  and  (on  the  Mold)  tri- 
umphal arch  reared  by  the  Roman  Senate,  a.d.  113,  to 
Trajan,  and  another  in  honor  of  Pope  Clement  XII. 

11-14  hrs.  distant  by  rly.  (621.  80  e.,  441.,  311. 
40  c.)  is  Brindisi  {International;  Centrale;  Europa; 
tolerable),  once  an  important  Roman  naval  *  station, 
and  now  the  chief  point  of  departure  for  the  East 
Indies,  on  the  mail-route  from  England  to  India.  It  is 
growing  rapidly  27,000  inhab.),  and  is  visited  bj 
steamers  for  Adriatic,  Greek,  Italian,  and  Levantim 
ports  (3  days  to  Alexandria).  Here  the  Appian  Waj 
ended;  and  here  Virgil  died. 

53f  M.  hence  by  rly.  (10 1.  60  c,  6 1.  70  c,  4 1.  80  c.) 
to  Otranto,  a  port  on  tiie  heel  of  the  Italian  boot. 
Br.  ry.  from  Bari  to  Taranto  {Aquila  d/Oro;  Europa), 
with  richly  decorated  Cathedral  and  strong  castle. 

Ancona  to  Rome  by  rly.,  183  M.  (351,  241.  70  c.). 
Few  tourists  will  go  S.  of  Ravenna  on  this  coast. 

Bologna  to  Florence,  in  82  M.  (5-6  hrs. ;  fares, 
141.  20  c.,  101.  45  c.,  71.  55  c.),  by  remarkably  pictu- 
resque rly.  across  the  Apennines,  with  many  very  costly 
bridges,  tunnels,  galleries,  and  viaducts,  and  down  to 
the  rich  Tuscan  plains  (superb  views) .  Pistoja  ( O-loho) 
is  an  ancient  town  of  13,000  inhabitants,  at  fool 
of  Apennines,  rich  in  13th  and  14th-century  sculptures, 
and  a  favorite  summer-resort  for  Florentines.  Pistols 
are  named  from  this  town.  Catiline  was  defeated  and 
killed  near  by.     See,  in  12th-century  GatJiedral,  monU' 


FLORENCE.  329 

ments,  cboir-stalls,  and  silver  altar ;  Campanile,  once  a 
fortified  tower ;  Italian- Gotliic  Baptistery,  of  black  and 
white  marble  ;  S.  Andrea,  splendid  pulpit  (1298-1301) 
and  carved  architrave;  several  other  rich  chs.  and 
massive  old  palaces  ;  and  suburban  Villa  Puccini,  in 
beautiful  gardens. 

Pistoja  to  Pisa,  40^  M.  (6  1.  60  c,  5  1.  35  c,  4^1.)  ; 
to  Florence,  21j  M. ;  45  min. 

Florence.  / 

Hotels :  Orand ;  Florence  and  Washington ; 
Neiv  York;  Italie;  de  la  Ville;  Palace;  Cavour; 
d' Europe;  Porta  Rossa;  Victoria-,  Alliance;  Anglo- 
American;  3Iinerva  Paoli;  Albion;  Bristol;  Grande 
Bretagne.  There  are  also  many  excellent  pensions 
where  those  making  a  long  stay  can  live  cheaply  and 
well.  Furnished  apartments  may  also  be  had  reason- 
ably, meals  being  prepared  at  home,  sent  in  from 
one  of  the  trattorie,  or  taken  in  the  restaurants. 

Theatres:  Nicolini;  della  Pergola;  Politeama 
Nazionale  (fine  summer  theatre) ;  Verdi-,  Alhambra. 
British,  Yia  Tornabuoui,  No.  2. 

IFlorentia  was  founded  by  the  Romans,  before  Christ ; 
ravaged  by  the  barbarians ;  rose  to  great  commercial 
importance  by  1100 ;  suffered  from  centuries  of  civil 
conflicts  and  foreign  wars  ;  ruled  by  the  Medici  faToily, . 
1434-1737 ;  by  dukes  of  the  house  of  Lorraine,  1737 
-1860 ;  and  was  capital  of  Italy,  1864-70.  Since  1870 
it  has  fallen  into  decay  and  financial  embarrassment, 
but  is  a  favorite  winter-resort,  by  reason  of  its  vast 
art-treasures,  natural  beauty,  and  cheapness  of  living. 
It  stands  on  a  narrow  plain,  partly  surrounded  by 
the  Apennines  and  their  foot-hills,  and  cut  in  two 
by  the  river  Aruo,  which  is  nearly  dry  in  summer. 
There  are  200,000  inhab. 


330      PALAZZO   VECCHIO.  —  UFFIZI  GALLERY. 

The  Piazza  della  Signoria,  the  central  square^ 
forum  of  the  Republic,  and  present  business-centre,  i? 
adorned  by  bronze  equestrian  statue  of  Cosmo,  marble 
lion,  and  Neptune  Fountain,  erected  in  1564-75,  on 
site  of  Savonarola's  martyrdom.  Here  fronts  the 
Palazzo  Vecchio  (bui^  1298),  once  capitol  of  Re- 
public and  palace  of  Cosmo  I.,  and  now  town-hall,  —  a 
tall,  massive,  and  formidable  fortress-palace.  Enter  (by 
Bandinelli's  statues  of  Hercules  and  Cacus)  the  court' 
yard,  with  Miclielozzi's  dainty  arabesques,  Yasari's 
fountain,  Yerocchio's  statue  of  a  boy.  The  Hall  of  the 
Great  Council  was  built  in  1495,  at  Savonarola's  order. 
Italian  Parliament  sat  here,  1865-70.  Yasari  and  oth- 
ers made  many  of  the  frescos ;  and  two  very  famous 
cartoons  were  drawn  by  Leonardo  and  Angelo,  for  this 
hall.  See  Hall  of  the  Two  Hundred,  used  by  town- 
council  ;  Hall  of  the  Lilies,  with  rich  marble  work  ;  and 
Medici  apartments.  Campanile  built  by  Arnolfo  del 
Cambio,  308  ft.  high  (450  steps),  gives  a  grand  view. 
Its  bell  Avas  the  rallying-sound  in  the  civil  Vi^ars.  In 
front  is  the  Loggia  dei  Lanzij  a  very  graceful  arcade 
built  in  1376  for  Cosmo's  guards  of  lancers ;  later,  a 
tribune  Mdieuce  the  people  were  harangued ;  and  now 
conta^ining  celebrated  statues,  —  Benvenuto  Cellini's 
"Perseus,"  Donatello's  "Judith,"  Giovanni  da  Bo- 
logna's "Hercules,"  etc.  Alongside  Palazzo  A^ecchio, 
see  Palazzo  TJguccione,  planned  by  Raphael ;  opposite 
which  is  new  Palazzo  Fenzi,  in  Early  Plorentine  style. 
Between  Yecchio  and  Loggia,  enter  Portico  degli  Uffizi, 
built  by  Yasari,  1560-74,  with  marble  statues  of  24 
famous  Tuscans.  On  r.,  entrances  to  Mint,  now 
Post- Office  ;  on  1.,  to  the  world-renovv^ued 

Uffizi  Gallery  (open  10-4,  adni,  1  fr.,  Sundays, 
free;  catalogues,  3|  1.),  the  vast  art-collections 
made  by  the  Medici  and  Lorraine  dynasties.  See  Niole 


I 


FLORENCE,  331 

BaU^  aali<^ae«>statues  of  Niobe  and  her  cliildren ;  hall 
of  portraits  of  painters,  made  by  themselves ;  Tribuna, 
with  Venus  de  Medici,  Wi'estlers,  Apollino,  and  many 
celebrated  paintings ;  cabinets  of  gems,  cameos,  bronzes, 
and  vases  ;  vast  collections  of  ^Flemish,  German,  Dutch, 
and  Venetian  pictures ;  and  masterpieces  of  Raphael, 
Titian,  Correggio,  etc.  Tlie  National  Library  (open 
10-4)lias480,000  vols.,  18,000  MSS.,  rare  books,  and 
•the  great  Tuscan  archives. 

The  grand  and  massive  Pitti  Palace,  S.  of  the  Aruo, 
was  begun  in  1440,  on  Brunelieschi's  plans,  for  the 
merchant  Pitti,  whose  heirs  sold  it  in  1559  to  the  Medici, 
who  made  it  their  home,  and  had  Vasari  joiu  it  to  the 
Palazzo  Vecchio  by  a  corridor  1,800  ft.  long  (now  tilled 
with  rare  drawings  by  Itahan  masters).  Tiie  Pitti  is 
occasionally  occupied  by  the  king.  Its  front  (121  ft. 
high)  is  of  enormous  blocks  of  stone,  20-25  ft.  long. 
On  the  second  floor  is  a  gallery  (Tne.,  Thnrs.,  Snn., 
10-4)  of  500  fine  old  pictures,  in  13  magnificent  sa- 
loons, richly  frescoed  and  adorned  with  tables  and 
cabinets  of  marble,  alabaster,  malachite,  and  mosaic. 
Here  are  some  of  the  best  works  of  Eaphael,  Titian, . 
etc.  The  Boboii  Garden  (open  Tues.,  Thurs., 
Sun.,  12-6),  back  of  the  palace,  was  laid  out  in  1500, 
and  its  hill-terraces  command  noble  views  of  Florence 
(especially  from  Belvedere) .  See  ampitheatre,  grotto, 
obelisk,  Neptune's  statue  (by  Giovanni  da  Bologna), 
etc.  Near  the  Pitti  is  the  extensive  and  valuable  Mu- 
seum of  Physics,  with  Galileo's  first  telescopes,  and 
one  of  his  fingers;  also  rare  botanical  collections. 

The  Academy  of  Fine  Arts  (open  10-4,  1  1. ; 
Suns,  and  festivals  free)  contains  schools  of  design, 
painting,  architecture,  music,  mechanism,  chemistry, 
etc.,  and  a  noble  collection  of  old  religious  pictures 
showing  the  development  of  Tuscan  art.     The  lowel 


332      NATIONAL   MUSEUM. — CATHEDKAL. 

halls  contain  modem  paintings.  The  court  is  decorated 
witli  reliefs  by  Luca  della  Robbia.  In  second  court  is 
Michael  Angelo's  celebrated  statue  ot*  David.  Floren- 
tine Mosaic-factory  in  same  building  (museum  open 
daily).  Close  by,  in  cloisters  of  the  Scaizo,  fin>e  frescos 
by  Andrea  del  Sarto  ;  also  Medicean  Casino,  built  1570. 
In  same  square  is  Ch.  of  S.  Marco  (1290),  with  many 
pictures  and  statues,  and  tombs  of  Politian  and  Pico 
della  Mirandola.  Next  door  is  the  famous  old  Domini- 
can Monastery  of  S.  Marco,  now  occupied  by  a  museum 
(open  10-4, 1 1. ;  free  Sun. ;  guide-book,  1^1.)  of  choice 
works  of  old  masters,  great  number  of  frescos  by  Ifra 
Angelico,  etc.,  in  cloisters,  cells,  and  refectory.  See 
cell  of  Savonarola.  Era  Angelico,  Fra  Bartolommeo, 
St.  Antoninus,  and  Politian  were  monks  here.  The 
dccademia  della  Cr,^sca,  founded  in  1582  to  preserve 
she  purity  of  tlie  Italian  language,  is  established  here. 

The  National  Museum  (open  10-4,  1 1. ;  Sun.  free) 
has  a  hail  of  mediaeval  bronzes,  with  Giovanni  da 
Bologna's  ceaebrated" Mercury,"  Donatello's  "David," 
*' St  George,"  and  8  other  works;  Carrand  collection 
of  paintings;  a  collection  of  weapons;  statuary  by 
Angelo,  Baudinelli,  etc.  ;  ancient  furniture ;  faience ; 
celebrated  frescos  by  Giotto,  in  old  chapel ;  rich  terra- 
cottas ;  staiiied  glass,  etc.  It  is  in  the  Palazzo  del 
Fodesta,  or  II  Bargello,  built  1256  for  the  Florentine 
chief  magistrate  ;  fortified  1317  ;  and  often  assailed  by 
the  populace.  The  curfew  was  sounded  from  the  cam- 
panile. The  prisons  and  torture-rooms  were  here.  See 
picturesque  court. 

The  Cathedral  of  l!Sm.  Maria  del  Flore  (so  called 
t'rom  the  lily  in  the  arms  of  Plorence),  one  of  the  grand- 
est Gothic  chs.  of  Europe,  was  built  1294-1474,  by 
Arnoifo,  Giotto,  Gaddi  and  Orcagna,  on  site  of  older 
ch.  of  S.  Reparata,  and  is  556|  ft.  long,  and  342  ft. 


FLORENCE,  S33 

wide  (at  transepts),  wltli  walls  of  beautiful  wtite  and 
colored  marbles.  The  nave  is  154  ft.  higli.  Beautiful 
-porcb  on  Via  Ricasoli,  with  pillars  resting  on  backs  of 
lions  r,  and  over  the  door  statues  by  Douatello  and 
Jacopo  della  Querela.  The  interior  is  impressive,  but 
simple,  with  huge  pillars  flanking  the  lofty  nave,  rich 
marble-mosaic  pavement,  and  stained  windows.  See 
Jacopo  della  Quercia's  "Madonna,"  Uccello's  frescos, 
Gaddi's  mosaics,  Angelo's  "  Entombment ; "  bronze 
doors,  by  Luca  della  Robbia;  statues,  portraits,  and 
tombs  of  many  celebrated  Elorentines.  It  is  a  perfect 
treasure-house  of  art.  The  stained  glass  was  designed 
by  Ghiberti  and  Donatello,  and  made  at  Lubeck.  The 
Dome,  352  ft.  high,  made  by  Brunelleschi  (1421-36)  is 
higher  than  that  of  St.  Peter's,  and  may  be  ascended 
(463  steps  ;  57  more  to  the  Cross ;  fee,  1 1.).  Interest- 
ing details,  and  grand  view.  King  Victor  Emmanuel 
laid  foundations  of  new  main  fapade  in  1860.  In  this 
oh.  Giuliano  de'  Medici  fell  under  the  daggers  of  the 
Pazzi ;  the  Greek  Emperor  offered  to  become  Catholic ; 
and  Erederick  II.  of  Germany  knighted  many  of  his 
fierce  captains.  In  the  Opera  del  Duomo  is  the 
Cathedral  Museum  {^  fr.). 

The  Italian-Gothic  Campanile,  the  most  marvellous 
beR-tower  in  the  world,  is  Giotto's  noblest  work 
(1334-36).  It  is  292  ft.  high,  in  4  stories,  of  which 
the  uppermost  is  superbly  decorated,  with  delicate 
tracery  around  windows,  and  many  statues  and  reliefs 
by  Giotto,  Donatello,  and  other  masters.  The  tower  is 
built  of  variegated  marbles.  Eee  to  ascend,  1 1.  Noble 
view  of  Elorence  and  Apennines  (414  steps).  Along- 
side is  the  famous  ch.  of  the  Misericordia,  whose 
cowled  brethren  are  often  seen  upon  the  streets  and 
opposite  is  the  Canonry,  with  statues  of  Amolfo  and 
Brunelleschi,  See  Sasso  di  Dante,  near  by,  a  stone  oa 
which  Dante  used  to  sit. 


334  BAPTISTERY. 

The  Baptistery  of  *S'.  Giovanni  (6th  centuryj,  oppo- 
site the  Cathedral,  is  an  octas^onal  marble  ch.,  94  ft.  in 
diameter,  with  dome.  Until  1128  it  was  used  as  a 
cathedral.  Here  are  Ghiberti's  celebrated  broiizt? 
doors  (1408-52),  with  10  Old-Testament  scenes,  and 
28  from  life  of  Christ  and  early  Church  history. 
Michael  Angelo  declared  these  worthy  to  be  the  gates 
of  Paradise  (see  also  George  Eliot's  Romolci).  At 
the  sides  are  two  porphyry  columns,  given  by  Pisa  in 
1200.  Bronze  door  on  S.,  scenes  from  life  of  St. 
John,  made  by  Andrea  Pisano  (1408-30).  Inside  are 
many  statues,  dim  old  mosaics,  Oriental-granite  col- 
umns, and  tomb  of  Pope  John  XXllI.  SS.  Ammn- 
ziata  (1250)  contains  Andrea  del  Sarto's  best  works, 
sumptuous  chapels,  and  cloisters.  S.  Croce,  built 
(1294-1442)  by  Arnolfo  and  Vasari,  is  an  imposing 
cruciform  basilica,  with  modern  fa9ade  of  black  and 
white  marbles  (1863),  high  tower,  and  rich  cloisters  and 
refectory  (many  paintings).  In  this  vast  old  Ploren- 
tine  Pantheon  are  the  tombs  of  Galileo,  Michael  Angelo, 
Macchiavelli,  Raphael  Morghen,  Lanzi,  Cherubini, 
Ugo  Poscolo,  and  other  great  men;  and  monuments  to 
Dante  and  Alfieri.  Hare  treasures  of  art,  including 
many  frescos  by  Giotto.  In  front,  see  noble  modern 
statue  of  Dante.  S.  Lorenzo,  consecrated  by  St. 
Ambrose  in  393,  and  rebuilt  by  the  Medici  in  1425, 
from  Brunelleschi's  and  Michael  Angelo's  plans,  is  a 
sumptuous  Poraanesque  ch.,  resting  on  14  tall  Corinth- 
ian columns,  and  containing  tomb  of  Cosmo,  "Patlier  of 
his  People ;  "  and  sculptures  by  Donatello,  Brunelleschi, 
Michael  Angelo,  and  Thorwaldsen.  In  new  Sacristv 
are  Angelo's  Twilight,  Dawn,  Day,  and  Night,  over 
the  tombs  of  the  Medici.  The  Chapel  of  the  Princes 
(1604),  erected  by  the  Medici  at  a  cost  of  $4,400,000, 
for  their  sepulchres,  is  a  dome-covered  octagon,  lined 


FLORENCE.  335 

With  precious  marbles,  mosaics,  and  frescos.  Adjacent 
sceLauren^m^  Ubmry  (open  9-3;  i-U.),  fonnded 
1444  by  Cosmo,  m  buildmg  planned  by  Michael 
Angelo.  Priceless  old  vols,  and  8,000  MSS.,  many  of 
them  rare,  by  Dante,  Alfieri,  Petrarch,  Boccaccio,  and 
ot   Virg-il,  vEscliylus,  etc.  1 

S   Maria  Novella  (1278-1371)  is  a  beautiful  ch.' 
pt  black  and  white  marbles,  with  arcades,  and  attractive 
interior,  on  slender  pillars.     See  Ghiriandajo's  famous 
jrescos,    m    choir ;    Brunelleschi's    crucifix,  in  Gondi 
Uiapei;^  Gimabue  s  Madonna,  borne  in  triumph  by  the 
Florentines   from   the   studio   to  the   ch. ;    Orcama's 
trescos,  m  Strozzi  Chapel,  and  in  Green  Cloister :  vast 
blottesque   frescos,    in    Spanish    Chapel;    and   Great 
Cloisters,   the  largest  in  Plorence.      See,   also,  in  S 
Maria   Maddalem,    fresco    by  Perugino;    La    Badia 
with  ancieiit  tombs  and  tall  tower;   Or  San  Michell 
built  in  1284  by  Arnolfo  for  a  corn-haU,  and  made  a 
Gotluc  ch.  in  1337-55,  with  many  statues  by  the  great 
yfo-n?^  ^^^  .^^t^^'^  by   Orcagna    (1359) ;    S.    Trinita 
Ci2o0)  •Carmine  (1422),  with  cloisters,  and  Masaccio's 
lamous  frescos    (studied  by   Perugino,    Raphael,  An- 
fn  mn       |^^°^^^^^o)-      See,  also,  Marucellian  library, 
/UOUO   vols.;    Riccardian  library,    containing   oldest-^ 
Mb.  m  existence  (Pliny)  ;    houses  of  Benvenuto  Cel- 
lim,  Dante,  Ghiberti,  Bianca  Capello,  Amerigo   Ves- 
pucci,  Galileo,   MacchiavelH,  Guicciardini,  Andrea  del 
barto;  the  great  hospitals,  decorated  by  the  masters 
(especially  Poundlmg  Hospital,  S.  Maria  Nuova) ;  busy 
Mercato  Iliwvo ;   and  interesting  great  Egyptian  and 
Etruscan  Museum  (open  9-3  ;  1 1.),  in  refectory  of  old 
Convent  ot  S.  Onofrio,  vases,  rehefs,  implements,  etc., 
and  fresco  (1505)  of  "Last  Supper;"  and  house  ol 
Michael  Angelo  (daily,  10-4;  \  f r. ;  Men.,   Thurs., 
Iree),  with  museum  of  works  cind  relics  of  Angelo 
Ihere  are  scores  of  huge  old  palaces,  mainly  by 


336  LUNG'  ARNO. 

illustrious  architects.  Among  them,  see  Ridolji  (Uu* 
eellai),  which  was  sacked  bj  the  people  in  1527 ;  AltoviH, 
with  marble  portraits  of  famous  Florentines ;  Corsini, 
very  elegant,  with  large  picture-gallery  (open  Tues., 
Eri.,  and  Sat.) ;  Strozzi,  3  vast  facades,  a  very  perfect 
and  imposing  palace,  with  picture-gallery  (open)  ;  Ric- 
cardi  (1434),  original  and  stately  home  of  the  Medici 
(see  chapel  and  courts)  ;  Fotttebuoni,  where  Alfieri 
died;  /5^om,  now  municipal  offices;  Manelli  (1565); 
Panciatichi,  with  picture-gallery ;  and  Torrigiano,  with, 
large  gallery  (open  daily)  and  famous  gardens. 

The  Arno  is  bordered  by  the  handsome  old  quays  of 
the  Iiung'  Arno,  on  both  sides,  and  crossed  by  the 
picturesque  Fonte  Vecchio  (1362),  covered  with  shops; 
elegant  Ponte  S.  Trinita,  built  1252  ;  Ponte  alia  Car- 
raja  (1218),  often  restored;  Ponte  alle  Grazie  (1235)  ; 
and  2  suspension-bridges.  The  Via  dei  Cahajuoli,  from 
cathedral  to  Uffizi,  and  Via  Tornabuoni  are  the  busiest 
streets.  There  are  many  picturesque  squares,  adorned 
with  statues  and  fountains. 

Excursions.  —  The  Cascine,  a  narrow  park  extend* 
ing  2  M.  along  the  Arno,  just  W.  of  Florence,  has 
favorite  rambles  and  drives  (military  music,  zoological 
garden,  etc.). — Along  the  Viale  dei  Colle  to  Piazza 
Michael  Angelo,  a  beautiful  esplanade  (dedicated 
1875),  with  monument  and  bronze  copies  of  Angelo's 
works.  —  S.  Miniato  is  a  beautiful  ch.  on  far- viewing 
hill  on  E.,  in  Pisan-Florentine  architecture  (1013),  with 
rich  fapade,  mosaics,  14  great  marble  columns,  open 
roof,  notable  crypt,  niello  mosaic  pavement  (1207),  and 
finely  frescoed  sacristy.  Charnnng  view  of  Florence. 
—  Bello  Sguardo,  just  S.  W.  of  Florence,  commands 
a  lamous  view  over  city  and  mts.  —  The  Poggio  Im- 
periale,  once  a  ducal  villa,  now  a  nuns'  school,  is  out- 
side and  above  the  Porta  Bomana,  reached  by  fine 
avenue  of  trees.     I^ear'^W  h  the  tower  whifiJi  wm 


FIESOLE.  —  VALLOMBROSA.  33? 

Galileo's  observatory;  also,  villa  where  he  livedo 
1G31-43,  and  was  visited  by  Milton.  In  adjacent 
villa,  Guicciardini  wrote  the  history  of  Italy.  —  La 
Certosa,  3  M.  from  Porta  Romana,  is  a  rast  and 
fortress-like  Carthusian  monastery,  built  1341,  from 
Orcagna's  plans.  Fine  paintings,  monuments,  etc.,  in 
cn.j  cloisters,  and  chapter-house  (11.).  —  Monte  Oli- 
veto,  1  M.  from  Forta  S.  Frediaiio,  is  a  monastery 
(1334),  whence  grand  views. — Villa  San  Donato 
(Demidoff),  open  Mon.  and  Eri.  (5  1.).  — Villa  Ca- 
reggi,  2-3  M.  N.,  once  seat  of  Medici  and  Platonic 
Academy.  Cosmo  and  Lorenzo  died  here.  — Foggio 
tt  Cajano,  royal  villa,  12  M.  N.  W. ;  and  Villa  della 
Fetraia,  anotlier  royal  residence.  —  Pratolino,  former 
forest-palace  of  Medici. 

Fiesole,  3  M.  N.  of  Plorence,  beyond  convent  where 
Pra  Angelico  dwelt,  was  an  Etruscan  city,  and  retains 
parts  of  vast  Myalls.  See  also  Cathedral  (1028),  and 
old  palaces  adjacent;  Eranciscan  convent,  on  site  of 
Acropolis;  ancient  theatre  (50c.);  splendid  abbey; 
and  fascinating  views  of  Val  d'  Arno. 

Vallombrosa,  18  M.  distant,  among  the  Apennines, 
may  be  visited  in  a  day.  Yast  abbey,  founded  1050, 
now  a  school  of  forestry.  1  hr.'s  climb  hence  to  top  of 
Fratomagno,  5,323  ft.  high,  with  noble  view  to  Medi- 
terranean. Excursion  also  to  very  picturesque  Casen* 
tino  region,  and  grand  old  abbeys  of  Camaldoli  and 
Aloernia. 

Arezzo,  Orvieto,  Perugia,  If'oligno,  Siena* 

From  Florence  we  would  recommend  you  to  go  to  Rome  by 
the  shortest  route,  through  Arezzo,  Orvieto,  and  Orte  (195t 
M. ;  fares,  33  1.  85  c,  23  1.  30  c,  I6i  1. ;  by  express -trains, 
381.  5  c.,  261.40  c.).  Fares  by  express  fr«m  Moretioe  to 
Arezzo,  54^  M.,  101.  10  c,  7  i.  5c. 


338  AREZZO. — PERUGIA. 

Beautiful  rat.  scenery  on  the  long  ascent  xo 
'A.Tezzo{ViUoria;  La  Stella;  Inf/Mlter7'a),a.n  ancient 
Etruscan  city  ■which  became  an  ally  of  Rome^  B.C.  310. 
Here  Maecenas,  Vasari,  Petrarch,  and  other  famous  men 
wei'e  born.  It  now  has  18,000  inhab.  See  Italian- 
Gothic  Cathedral  (1177),  with  many  pictures,  tombs, 
etc.  S.  Maria  della  Pieve,  remarkable  lafade ;  S.  Fran- 
cesco, interesting  frescos  ;  Museum,  majolicas,  bronzes, 
antiques ;  Ahhey  of  8.  Mora  ;  old  palaces,  chs.,  and 
statues.  Cortona  {Nazionale),  another  Etruscan 
town,  has  great  Gathed^ral,  Museum,  vast  Etruscan 
walls,  and  fortress  (superb  view).  Rly.  runs  near  Lake 
ThrasT/mene  and  the  lovely  Yal  di  Chiana.  Orvieto 
{Belle  Arti ;  Aquila  Bianca  :  omnibus  from  stat.,  1  1.) 
stands  on  a  lofty  volcanic  rock  ;  and  has  a  magnificent 
Cathedral  (1290-1600)  of  black  and  white  marble,  with 
nave  111  ft.  high,  crowded  with  mosaics,  carvings, 
shrines,  and  frescos  by  Luca  Signorelli  and  Era  An- 
gelico.  The  route  hence  to  Eome  leads  by  Monte 
Rotondo  and  Montana,  where  Garibaldi  was  defeated  Id 
1S67. 

A  longer  rly.  route  to  Eome  leads  from  Cortona. 
along  Ijuke  Thrasymene  (30  X  8  M.  in  area ;  near  by, 
Hannibal  annihilated  the  lioman  army,  B.c.  217),  to 

Perugia  {Grand;  Palace;  Grande  Bretagne;  Belle 
Arti).  once  Etruscan,  now  capital  of  Umbria  (19,000 
inhab.),  with  103  chs.  and  50  monasteries.  See  great 
15th-century  Cathedral ;  S.  Pietro  de'  Casinense,  18 
antique  columns,  choir-stalls  designed  by  Raphael ;  S. 
Severe,  with  Raphael's  first  fresco  ;  S.  Dometiico,  tomb 
of  Pope  Benedict  XI.  ;  University  (50  c),  founded 
1320,  with  large  gallery  of  Umbrian  pictures,  antiqui- 
ties, etc. ;  Arch  of  Augustus,  an  ancient  city-gate ; 
Perugino's  house;  Etruscan  cemetery;  and  colfections 
in  several  palaces.     Supei'b  views  over  Tiber  valley  and 


j  SIENA.  339 

I 

Apennines.  Assisi,  perclied  on  a  high  hill,  was  the 
birthplace  of  St.  Francis,  and  has  vast  Eranciscan  mon- 
astery (fee  to  monk,  1 1.),  and  its  wonderful  Gothic 
double  ch.,  with  frescos  by  Giotto  and  Cimabue,  and 
other  treasures.  Foligno  (23,000  inhab.)  has  6  inter- 
esting chs.  Within  50  years  it  has  suffered  4  severe 
earthquakes.  The  rly.  thence  to  Rome  passes  Trevi, 
Spoleto,  and  Term  (beautiful  falls  here). 

A  still  louger  route  is  from  Florence  to  Siena  (59  M. ; 
fares,  101.85  c.,  1\\.,  5  1.30c.),  passing  Gertaldo^ 
where  Boccaccio  died ;  and  Por/fjibomi{w\\ei\cQ  carriages 
to  San  Gimignano,  with  enormous  walls,  interesting 
chs.,  and  many  works  of  art. 

SiQna.  {Jdotel  de  Sie?ine;  Co7iti7iental),  city  of  23,000 
(once  200,000)  inhab.,  celebrated  for  ancient  school  of 
devotional  art,  for  pretty  women,  healthy  climate,  and 
purity  of  language.  Sieges  and  wars  innumerable  have 
distressed  it.  See  vast  and  superb  13th-century  Cathe- 
dral, of  red,  white,  and  black  marbles,  abounding  in 
sculptures  and  paintings,  rose  windows,  choir-stalls, 
etc.;  Z/i^/'<2/y  (M95),  frescos  by  Pinturicchio  and  Ra- 
phael ;  notable  Campanile,  Baptistery/,  and  Fellegrinajo 
hospital ;  S.  Domenico,  S.  Francesco,  S.  Bernardino,  and 
other  chs. ;  Oratory  of  St.  Catherine  of  Siena ;  Institute 
of  Fine  Arts  (open  9-3),  with  valuable  Sienese  pictures, 
including  Sodoma's  "  Descent  from  the  Cross  ;  "  Fa- 
lazzo  Publico  (1293-1309),  with  many  stately  and  richly 
furnished  halls  ;  Campanile,  which  Leonardo  da  Vinci 
admired;  handsome  Faldzzo  del  Cover  no  (1469),  with 
30,000  parchments,  some  dating  from  811 ;  Loggia  di 
S.  Faolo  (1417)  ;  other  palaces  of  nolle  period  of  archi- 
tecture  ;  the  Fonte  Gaja  and  Fonte  Branda  ;  La  Lizza^ 
the  promenade;  the  University;  the  Opera  del  Du- 
omo,  now  Cathedral  Museum.  Excursions  to  L'Os- 
servanza  monastery  and  Belcaro  castle. 


340  ROMS 


Hotels.— Quirinal;  Begina;  Gr.and;  Royal;  Excelsior; 
Bristol;  de  Russie;  Savoy;  Beau-Site;  Eden;  Palace;  Berto- 
linVs  Splendid;  Suisso;  Primavera;  Victoria;  Angletcrre; 
Italic;  Hassler  (Gi-erinaii);  Anglo  -  Americainc;  Marini; 
Michel;  Campidoglio;  Laurati;  Helvetia;  Minerva;  Milano; 
National.  There  are  also  many  good  pensions  suitable  for 
a  long  stay. 

Permits  to  visit  Vatican  and  many  villas  and  palaces 
obtained  from  hotel  proprietor  or  guide,  or  from  appointed 
officials.  Get  Baedeker's  Central  Raly,  compact  and 
practical ;  Hare's  Walks  in  Rome;  Murray's  Rome  is  good 
reading,  but  bulky;  Hacliette's  Rome  ct  ses  Eyivirons  is 
good. 

Old  travelers  advise  that  mornings  at  Ronae  be  given  to 
the  chs.  and  palaces,  and  afternoons  to  the  classic  ruins 
and  fragments  of  the  Imperial  city. 

A  visit  to  Rome  is  the  most  interesting  experience  in 
the  course  of  a  European  tour.  No  adequate  idea  of  the 
city  can  be  gained  in  less  than  10-12  days.  If  the  traveller 
can  give  it  but  7-8  days,  he  should  devote  the  time  equally 
between  the  classic  remains  and  the  great  chs.  and 
modern  institutions.  American  Ch,  of  St.  Paul,  on  Via 
Nazionale. 

Tradition  ascribes  the  founding  of  Eome  to  Romulus 
and  Remus,  b.c.  753.  It  is  probably  much  older.  King 
Tarquin  was  expelled,  B.C.  509;  the  republic  lasted  480 
years,  conquering  the  '  Etruscans,  Samnites,  Gauls, 
Lucanians,  etc.  B.C.  890  the  Gauls  took  Rome.  Then 
came  wars  with  Carthage  (b.c.  264-341,  219-303,  and  149- 
146);  conquest  of  Corsica  (238),  Sicily  (241),  Spain  (B.C.  197- 
178),  Greece  (b.c.  214-205, 200-197, 173-168,  and  146),  Pergamus 
(129),  Provence  (118),  and  Gaul  (58-50).  B.C.  29,  Augustus 
Csesar  became  emperor.  47  legions  garrisoned  the  vast 
empire.  Constantino  (324-337  a.d.)  made  Christianity  the 
State  religion,  but  removed  the  capital  of  the  empire  to 
Constantinople.    Rome  was  sacked  by  Alaric  410,  then  by 


EOME.  341 

0enseric,  and  finally  by  Odoacer  (476),  who  annihilated  the 
Koman  empire.  In  546  .and  549  the  Goth  Totila  took  the 
city.  Leo  the  Great  (440-461)  and  Gregory  the  Great  (590- 
604)  founded  the  papal  power,  which  was  solidified  by  Pepin 
(755)  and  Charlemagne  (800). 

Rome,  "  the  Eternal  City,"  the  capital  of  Italy 
(430,000  iuhab.),  is  on  the  river  Tiber,  15^  M.  from 
its  mouth,  and  near  the  centre  of  the  broad  and  desolate 
Campagna.  The  Tiber  runs  for  3  M.  through  Rome, 
with  the  low  Vatican  and  Janiculan  Hills  on  the  r.,  and 
on  the  1.  the  circle  of  the  Pincian,  Quirinal,  Viminal, 
Esquiline,  Cselian,  and  Aventine  Hills,  surrounding  the 
Palatine-  and  Capitoline  Hills  (the  last  7  are  the 
famous  "Seven  Hills").  The  space  within  the  walls 
is  about  the  same  as  in  Aurelian's  time,  but  f  of  it  is 
in  gardens  and  ruins.  As  in  the  Augustan  age,  it  is 
divided  into  14  Rioni,  or  wards.  The  ecclesiastical 
population  is  7,500.  Many  of  the  streets  are  narrow 
and  unattractive ;  but  the  Corso,  Yia  Babuino,  Ripetta, 
and  a  few  others  are  filled  with  splendid  shops  and 
animated  crowds.  There  are  7  bridges  over  the  Tiber. 
The  river  often  overflowed  its  banks  and  made  lakes 
of  the  lower  squares  before  embankments  were  Built. 

The  walls  of  Rome  are  of  brick,  14  M.  around,  and 
55  ft.  high,  and  about  1600  years  old,  though  restored 
by  Theodoric,  Belisarius,  etc.  There  are  12  gates  now 
open,  and  several  closed.  On  N.  is  Porta  del  Popolo, 
built  in  1561  by  Vignola;  nest  is  Pinciana,  closed  in 
1S08  ;  then  Salara  (closed),  flanked  by  towers,  where 
Alaric  entered  Rome ;  Pia,  built  from  Angelo's  designs 
in  1564,  and  breached  by  Italian  batteries  in  1870 ; 
Nomentana,  closed  since  1564 ;  Tiburtina,  long  ago 
sealed  up ;  aS'.  Lorenzo,  built  by  Honorius,  over  the 
Tivoli  road ;  the  rly.  gate ;  Porta  Maggiore-,  part  of 
Claudian  Aq-ieduct  Ca.d.  52),  made  a  gate  by  Aurelian, 


342       AQUEDUCTS.  ^  PIAZZA  DEL  POPOLO. 

and  a  fortress  by  the  Coloimas,  and  commanding  the 
Palestrina  road ;  S.  Giovanni,  built  in  1574,  over  Al- 
bano  road ;  Asinaria  (now  closed),  where  Belisarius 
inarched  into  Rome ;  Metronia,  closed ;  Latina  (closed 
1808),  over  Via  Latina,  to  Capna  ;  S.  Sebastiano,  with 
towers  and  pinnacles,  over  Appian  Way ;  S.  Paolo,  at 
foot  of  Aventine,  over  road  to  Ostia.  On  W.  bank  of 
Tiber,  Porta  Portese,  close  to  river;  8.  Pancrazio,  on 
Janiculan  Hill,  stormed  by  French  troops  in  1849,  and 
ruined  by  their  artillery ;  Cavalleggieri,  close  to  St. 
Peter's,  where  the  army  of  the  Constable  de  Bourbon 
entered  in  1527,  and  the  French  were  repulsed  in  1849  ; 
Fabbrica  (closed) ;  Angelica,  over  route  to  Monte 
Mario;  and  Castello  (closed). 

The  Aqueducts  give  a  noble  idea  of  Roman  archi- 
tecture and  bold  conception,  with  their  vast  arcades 
running  for  leagues  over  the  Campagna.  The  Aqua 
Marcia,  built  e.g.  146  and  restored  in  1869,  brings  the 
purest  of  water  from  the  Sabine  mts.,  56  M.  away. 
The  Aqua  Claudia  (a.d.  50)  leads  from  near  Subiaco, 
58-|M.  The  Aqua  Trajana  leads  from  Bracciano,  35 
M.  The  Aqua  Virgo,  built  by  Agrippa,  for  his  baths, 
leads  from  a  spring  14  M.  out  on  the  Campagna,  and 
breaks  out  in  the  Fountain  of  Trevi.  The  Aqua  Felice 
(built  by  Sixtus  V.,  in  1585)  leads  from  the  Alban 
mts.,  21  M.     Rome  is  thus  copiously  supplied. 

The  Piazza  del  Popolo,  the  focus  at  N.  gate  of 
Rome  to  which  the  great  streets  Babuino,  Corso,  and 
Ripetta  converge,  is  adorned  with  an  Egyptian  obelisk 
(set  up  here  in  1589),  fountains,  and  statues.  S.  Maria 
del  Popolo  (1099),  on  haunted  burial-place  of  Nero, 
has  many  prelates'  tombs,  rich  paintings,  and  a  beau- 
tiful chapel  by  Raphael.  2  other  high-domed  chs. 
front  on  the  Piazza.  Hence  ascend  drives  to  the  fa- 
vorite Roman  park  and  promenade,  on  the  Pincian  Hill 


ROME  343 

(once  LiicuUus's  gardens),  with  grand  views.  The 
Villa  Medici  (1540)  is  now  seat  of  French  art-aca- 
demy and  collections  (open  daily,  except  Sat.).  The 
Villa  Sorghese,  outside  Porta  del  Popolo,  has 
lovely  gardens,  with  Raphael's  villa,  and  a  casino 
devoted  to  sculptures  (including  Canova's  Pauline 
Bonaparte)  and  paintings. 

The  Piazza  di  Spagaa  contains  Bernini's  Bar- 

caccia  fountain;  Pius  IX's  Column  of  the  Immaculate 

Conception  (with  5  statues);    the  Palace  of  Spain 

(Spanish  embassy) ;  and  College  of  Propaganda  Fide 

(1663).   The  famous  Spanish  Staircase  ascends  hence 

Ito  SS.  Trinita  de'  Monti  (1495),  a  stately  ch.  with 

many  paintings  and  charming  music  (by  nuns).     At 

foot  of  Spanish  Stairs,  on  left,  is  the  house  in  which 

Keats  passed  the  last  4  months  of  his    life,  and  in 

which  he  died  on  the  night  of  February  23-24,  1821. 

A  commemorative  tablet  is  placed  on  the  house  on  a 

llevel  with  the  apartment  occupied  by  Keats  and  his 

friend  and  devoted  nurse,  the  painter  Joseph  Severn, 

who  is  buried  beside  him  in  the  Protestant  cemetery. 

[This  house  is  now   owned   by   the    Keats-Shelley 

!  Memorial  Association,  and  was  purchased  by  a  fund 

j contributed  by  English  and  Americans.     The  rooms 

I  of  the  Keats  apartment  have  been  fitted  up  by  addi- 

Itional  funds  furnished  by  Americans  and  are  devoted 

J  in  large  part  to  a  library  of  the  works,  portraits  and 

'other  memorials  of  Keats  and  Shelley    (open  daily, 

1 50c.)     One  of  the  rooms,  furnished  by  members  of 

;the  New  York  Stock  Exchange,  is  dedicated  to  the 

J  memory  of  the  late  Edmund  Clarence  Stedman. 

The  Corso  is  over  1  M.  long,  on  site  of  Via  Fta~ 
minia.  Leaving  Piazza  del  Popolo,  it  passes  Palazzo 
Rondanini,  with  unfinished  Pieta  by  Michael  Angelo; 
Goethe's  house  (No.  20);  great  Hospital  of  hicur- 
doles  (founded  1338);   Palazzo  Ruspoli  (1586);   S. 


344  PALACES  ON  THE  CORaO. 

Lorenzo  in  Lucina  (in  Piazza  to  r.),  with  tomb  of  N 
Poussin;   Palazzo  Fiano ;    Palazzo   Teodoli ;   S.    Sil 
vestro   in    Capite    (built    757-67),    and    English    Ch 
(1874)  in  side-street;  old  Palace  of  Knights  ofMaUa-y 
Palazzo  Torlonia ;  and  Palazzo  Chigi  (1526),  with  val 
uable   art-colleclioiis    and    library.       Here    opens   the 
handsome  Piazza  Colonna,  with  the  Column  of  Mar- 
cus Aurelius,  95  ft.  high,  adorned  witii  spiral  reliefs  o^ 
Aurelius's    wars   on  tiie   Danube.     On   one  side   sei 
palace  with  fine  Ionic  columns  from  Etruscan  Veii 
beyond  which  is  Piazza  di  Monte  Cittorio,  with  Italia^ 
"Parliament   House,  in  palace  built  by  Bernini.      I 
front,  note  obelisk,  brought  by  Augustus  from  Egyp' 
Other  two  sides  of  Piazza  Colonna  are  formed  by  P 
lazzi  Piombino  and  Eerajuoli.     Earther  down   Cor& 
on  little  square,  is  very  handsome  Palazzo  Sciarra- 
Colonna,  with   a   fine  picture-gallery.      Earther  on, 
opposite   Palazzo  Simonetti,    see  ch.   of   S.  Marcello 
(a.d.  499),    with   ancient    paintings    and    Consalvi's 
tomb.     Next  comes  (on  r.)  vast  and  splendid  Palazzo 
Doria  (open  Tues.  and  Eri. :  i  1.),  with  large  arcaded  i 
courtyard,  and  gallery  of  800  paintings  (catalogues  in  (] 
each    room),    including    works    of    Kaphael,    Claude, 
Titian,    Poussin,    etc.     Opposite  is   Palazzo  Salviati, 
back  of  which  is  Colonna  Palace.     Beyond  the  Palazzo 
Bonaparte  (in  which  died  the  mother  of  Napoleon  I.) 
is  the  Piazza  di  Venezia,  at  end  of  Corso,  on  which 
fronts  the  imposing  castellated  Palazzo  di  Venezia 
(1455),  which  Pius  IV.  gave  to  Venice  (now  Austrian 
embassy).     Near  by,  see  Palazzo  Torlonia,  famous  for 
its  works  of  art ;  S.  Marco  (a.d.  325  ;  rebuilt  in  833), 
with  mosaics  and  paintings;  popular  and  gorgeous 
Jesuit  Ch.  of  Gesu(  1568-77),  lined  with  costly  marble, 
with  columns  of  lapis  lazuli  and  gilded  bronze,  many 
statues,  and  tomb  of  St.  Ignatius  Loyola.     Adjacent 
is  the  former  Jesuit  monastery,  with  Loyola's  ceil,  etc. 


ROME.  345 

The  Tomh  of  Augustus  (i  1."), where  Augustus,  Mar- 
■  cellus  (see  Virgii),  and  other  emperors  and  princes 
iwere  buried,  afterwards  became  a  fortress  of  the 
IColonnas,  and  a  ring  for  bull-fights,  and  is  now  but 
partly  preserved, near  the  Ripetta,or  harbor  for  barges 
and  steamers.  The  Palazzo  Borghese  (1590)  is  a 
huge  and  splendid  palace,  with  arcaded  courts.  The 
picture-gallery  has  been  removed  to  the  Casino  of  the 
Villa  Borghese,  outside  of  the  Porta  del  Popolo 
(daily  11-5,  adm.  Ifr.;  Sun.  10-1,  free)..  In  this 
wonderful  collection  see  especially  Domenichino's 
Sibyl  and  Diana,  Titian's  Sacred  and  Profane  Love, 
Raphael's  Entombment,  Madonna,  and  Uaesar  Borgia, 
and  Correggio's  Danae. 

The  Quirinal  Palace  (1574-1605),  on  high  and 
healthy  ground,  was  a  favorite  summer-home  of  the 
Popes  until  1870,  since  which  the  King  of  Italy  has 
occupied  it.  Pius  VII.  was  imprisoned  here  in  1809 
by  Napoleon ;  and  here  he  died  in  1833.  See  frescos 
in  Sala  Regia;  Pauline  Chapel,  a  fac-simile  (in  form) 
of  the  Sistine ;  Audience  Hall ;  frescos  by  Raphael, 
Overbeck,etc. ;  and  apartments  of  Napoleon,  Emperor 
Francis  I.,  and  Kmg  Francis  II.  of  Naples.  In  front 
is  Piazza  di  Motile  Cavallo, with  obelisk, great  g:ranite 
fountain,  and  two  famous  colossal  marble  groups, 
the  Horse-Tamers,  formerly  in  Baths  of  Constantine. 
Near  Quirinal  stands  Consultd  Palace,  now  Govern- 
ment offices;  Palazzo  Rospigliosi  (1603),  with 
casino  (Wed.  ancl  Sat.  ;15^T,  fun~of  priceless  pic- 
tures, including  Guido's  Aurora;  S.  Silvestro  ch., 
with  Domenichino's  frescos;  mediaeval  Milizie  and 
Conti  towers. 

Beneath  Ch.  of  Cappuccini  tourists  visit  vaults  con- 
taining 4,000  desiccated  bodies  of  Capuchin  Monks, 
many  in  robes,  others  used  in  ghastly  decorations,  la 


346  BATHS  OF   DIOCLETIAN. 

rear  of  monastery  is  Villa  Ludovisi,  along  city-^a^ 
with  Juno  Ludovisi,  Guerciuo's  Aurora,  etc.,  in  its 
embowered  casinos.  Across  Piazza  Barherini  (see 
Bernini's  Triton  Fountain)  is  great  and  splendid  Pa- 
lazzo Barberini  (1624),  with  noble  halls,  antique 
sculptures  and  Picture-Gallery  (open  daily,  12-5), 
containing  Raphael's  Fornarina,  the  so-called  Gui- 
do's  Beatrice  Cenci,  etc.  In  the  great  hall,-  see 
Pietro  da  Cortona's fresco,  "  The  Triumph  of  Glory." 
The  library  was  added  to  the  Vatican  Library  in  1902. 

On  Piazza  di  SS.  Apostoli,  see  ch.  (555 ;  restored 
1872)  with  monuments  byCanova;  Valentmo,  Odes- 
calchi,  and  Buffo  Palaces ;  and  Palazzo  Colonna 
(1417),  with  splendid  halls  and  gardens,  antiques. 
Gobelins,  and  several  halls  filled  with  fine  old  j)ictures 
(open  daily,  11-3  ;  names  of  pictures  on  frames). 

The  Baths  of  Diocletian,  near  rly.-stat.,  were 
once  the  largest  in  Borne,  6,000  ft.  around,  with  3,000 
bathers  daily.  Built  in  4th  century  by  enslaved  Chris- 
tians. One  of  the  great  vaulted  halls  was  made  into 
Ch.  of  S.  Maria  deqli  Angeli,  by  Michael  Angelo 
(1561).  It  is  350  ft.  long  and  96  ft.  high,  with  16 
columns  (40  ft.  high)  of  Oriental  granite,  HoucTon's 
statue  of  St.  Bruno,  Domenichino's  wonderful  frescos, 
and  tombs  of  Salvator  B,osa  and  Carlo  Maratta.  Other 
halls  of  the  Baths  are  now  military  storehouses,  etc. ; 
as  also  is  Carthusian  Monastery,  one  of  whose  cloisters 
has  100  columns,  and  was  designed  by  Angelo.  A 
fragment  of  the  Wall  of  Servius  is  in  the  rly.-stat. 

The  Patriarchal  Basilica  of  S.  Maria  Maggiore  is 
on  the  Esquiline,  between  2  squares,  adorned  with  an 
ancient  obelisk,  and  a  column  46  ft.  high,  with  bronze 
statue  of  Madonna.  First  ch.  here  built  by  Pope 
Liberius  (in  352),  on  ground  indicated  by  miraculous 
fall  of  snow  in  August,     x^resent  nave  (279  X  57  ft.) 


ROME.  347 

built  in  432-40,  with  42  marble  Ionic  columns  (from 
Temple  of  Juuo),  and  5tli-ceutury  mosaics  on  archi- 
trave, walls,  and  arch.  Impressive  fayade,  with  5  por- 
tals, statue  of  Philip  IV.  of  Spain,  and  interesting  old 
mosaics.  See  high  altar,  a  porphyry  sarcophagus  coa- 
taining  St.  Matthew's  remains,  with  canopy  on  4 
porphyry  columns ;  Borghese  Chapel,  with  altar  of  lapis 
lazuli  and  agate,  and  Madonna  painted  by  St.  Lulce ; 
Chapel  (witli  10  porphyry  columns)  contaniing  manger- 
cradle  of  Christ :  tombs  of  6  popes ;  sumptuous  Six- 
tine  Chapel,  and  others.  The  first  gold  brought  from 
America  was  given  to  the  Pope  by  Perdinand  and 
Isabella,  and  used  in  decorating  this  ch.  Like  St. 
Peter's,  this  magnificent  temple,  so  rich  in  gems  and 
mosaics,  should  be  visited  several  times. 

Near  by,  see  S.  Antonio  Abate,  the  ch.  where  do- 
mestic animals  are  blessed  on  third  week  in  Jan. ; 
Triumphal  Arch  of  Gallienus  (a.d.  262)  ;  S.  JEusehio, 
frescoed  by  Raphael  Mengs ;  tower  of  Aqua  Claudia; 
S.  Prassede  (8S2;  restored  in  1450  and  1869),  with 
9fch-century  mosaics,  column  at  which  Christ  was 
scourged,  bones  of  Sts.  Praxedis  and  Pudentiana,  and 
Chapel  of  Garden  of  Paradise,  with  mosaics  on  gold; 
*S'.  Pudenziana,  on  site  where  St.  Peter  lived,  with 
4th-century  mosaics  (3,000  martyrs  are  buried  bs- 
neath) ;  aS'.  Martino  ai  Monti  (500),  a  basilica  with  43 
antique  columns,  and  frescos  by  Poussin ;  and  S. 
Pietro  in  Vincoli  (442),  built  by  Empress  Eudoxia 
to  receive  St.  Peter's  chains,  with  20  antique  Doric 
columns,  fine  bronze  doors,  and  Michael  Angelo's 
famous  statue  of  Moses. 

The  Pantheon  is  the  best  preserved  of  the  old 
Roman  buildings.  It  was  built  by  Augustus's  son-in- 
law,  Agrippa,  e.g.  27 i  burnt  under  Titus  and  Trajan; 
restored  by  Septimus  beverus  and.  Caracalla;  cons©- 


Ms  THE  PANTHEON. 

Crated  by  Boniface  IV.,  in  609,  as  Ch.  of  *S'.  Maria  ad 
Martyres  •  deformed  by  its  2  campaniles,  by  Bernini; 
stripped  of  ius  bronzes  by  Urban  VIII.  ;  and  restored 
by  Pius  IX.  Great  excavations  are  now  in  progress, 
revealing  Roman  works  and  buildings.  The  vast 
round  walls  of  brick,  20  ft.  thick,  were  once  covered 
with  marble.  The  portico  (now  below,  but  once 
above,  the  square)  has  16  huge  monolithic  columns  of 
Oriental  granite,  39  ft.  high,  with  Corinthian  capitals 
of  famed  beauty.  Statues  of  Augustus  and  Agrippa 
once  stood  here.  The  circular  interior  is  very  impres- 
sive ;  and  is  lighted  from  a  place  28  ft.  across  in  the 
centre  of  the  dome,  open  to  the  sky.  This  unrivalled 
dome  is  140  ft.  high  and  140  ft.  across.  It  was 
ascended  by  Charles  V.  in  1536.  The  gilded  bronze 
roof-tiles  were  carried  to  Constantinople  in  655  ;  and 
all  the  other  bronzes  were  used  in  making  cannon  for 
the  Citadel  and  the  canopy  in  St.  Pete/s,  The  7 
niches  in  which  statues  of  the  gods  stood  are  now 
occupied  by  altars.  Raphael  is  buried  here,  near  his 
betrothed,  Cardinal  Bibiena's  niece.  Here  also  rest 
Peruzzi,  Giovanni  da  Udine,  Annibale  Caracci,  and 
Perino  della  Vaga;  and  here  is  the  tomb  of  King 
Victor  Emmanuel  of  Italy. 

The  Gothic  S.  Maria  sopra  Minerva,  back  of  Pan- 
theon, was  built  in  1285  on  site  of  Temple  of  Minerva, 
and  contains  tombs  of  Bembo,  Era  Angelico,  Urban 
VII.,  Paul  ly.,  Leo  X.,  and  Clement  VII  ;  Michael 
Angelo's  Christ,  and  many  choice  works  of  art.  Adja- 
cent Government  building  was  headquarters  of  Do- 
minican Order,  in  which  Galileo  retracted  his  statement 
about  the  earth's  motion.  Great  library  here,  120,000 
vols,  and  4,500  MSS.  Close  by,  see  S.  Ignazio  (1626), 
and  Gollegio  Romano,  in  which  is  famous  Kircheriau 
Museum  of  arctiasology  (9-3  daily  ;  1 L). 


ROME.  349 

S.  Andrea  della  Valle  (1591)  has  tombs  of  Pius  11. 
and  III.,  and  Domenichino's  celebrated  Evangelists. 
Near  by,  see  Palazzo  Vicloni,  designed  by  Raphael; 
Palazzo  Massimi  alle  Colonne  (1536),  with  statue  of 
Discus-thrower ;  great  Palazzo  Braschi ;  Pasquino 
statue ;  ruins  of  Pompey's  Theatre ;  Chiesa  Nuova 
(1605),  with  paintings  by  Rubens,  monastery,  and  great 
library ;  Palazzo  della  Cancelleria,  very  elegant,  de- 
signed by  Bramante  ;  h\x.?,j  Piazza  di  Campo  dei  Fiori  ; 
vast  Palazzo  Farnese  (Fri.,  10-2),  built  by  SangaUo 
and  Michael  Augelo  in  1534-45,  now  belonging  to  the 
French  Government,  and  splendidly  frescoed  by  Anni- 
bale  Caracci  (Triumphs  of  Ariadne  and  Bacchus);  Pa- 
lazzo Spada  alia  Eegola  (1540),  with  great  collections  of 
antique  sculptures  and  paintings  (Mon.,  Wed.,  Sat.j 
^-3) ;  and  many  other  famous  chs.  and  palaces. 

The  great  Piazza  Navona  has  3  interesting  foua. 
;ains,  and  is  bounded  by  the  Lancelloti,  Ornani,  Braschi, 
and  Pamfili  Palaces ;  S.  Maria  delV  Anima  (1514),  Get- 
man  national  ch.,  with  mausoleum  of  Adrian  VI. ;  an^ 
the  Spanish  national  ch.  Near  it  is  S.  Maria  della  Pace 
(1481),  containing  Raphael's  Sibyls  (1514).  Pine 
cloister  (1504)  adjacent.  S.  Agostino  (1483 ;  re- 
stored in  1860)  has  tomb  of  Monica,  Augustine's 
mother,  and  Raphael's  famous  Prophet  Isaiah  (1512). 
Adjacent  is  old  monastery.  In  Piazza  S.  Apolli?tare, 
see  ch.  'J552)  with  Perugino's  Madonna,  Seminario 
Romano  school,  and  handsome  Palazzo  Altemps.  S. 
Lnigi  de'  Frances!  (1589),  on  square  with  Patrizi, 
Madama,  and  Giustiniani  Palaces,  has  many  notable 
paintings.  Near  by  is  University  of  the  Sapienza, 
founded  1303,  and  now  having  4  faculties  and  a  library 
(Alessandrina)  of  90,000  vols.  S.  of  the  Gesii,  see  many 
pakces  and  chs. ;  the  Tortoise  (^Tartartighe)  Pountain 
^585);  Palazzo  Cbif^^zyw^/ (1590),  with  Albano's  and 


350  CASTLE  OF  ST.  ANGELO. 

Guei'cino's  frescoes  ;  Palazzo  3fattei  (1616),  with  many 
statues  in  court ;  Palazzo  Cenci,  where  Beatrice  Cenci 
lived  ;  the  Ghetto,  pulled  down  in  1887,  once  the 
quarter  of  the  Jews  ;  Colonnade  of  Octavia,  built  by 
Augustus  in  honor  of  his  sister  ;  Theatre  of  Marcellus 
(b,  c.  13),  12hugh  arches  only  remaining  ;  and  palaces 
of  the  Orsini  and  Savelli. 

From  the  Bridge  of  St.  Angelo  to  the  Vatican. — The 
5-arched  Ponte  S.  Angelo  was  built  by  Hadrian 
(a.  d.  136)  and  named  Pons  ^lius.     10  colossal  angel- 
statues  by  Bernini  (1688)  adorn  its  parapets.     At  the 
end  rises  vast  round  Castle  S.  Angelo  (fee,l  1.),  built 
by  Hadrian  for  a  mausoleum  (with  colossal  statue  on 
summit),  where  the  Antonines  and  other  emperors  and 
their  families  were  buried.     Later,  it  was  a  fortress; 
whicli  repelled  dreadful  sieges,  as  when  the  Greeks  (in 
537)  threw  down  its  statues  on  the  assailing  Goths; 
and  a  prison,  where  Beatrice  Cenci,  Benveuuto  Cellini, 
Gagliostro,  Pope  John  X.  (suffocated  here),  etc.,  were 
shut  up.     Very  interesting   interior,  tomb  chambers, 
inclined  planes,  cells,  papal  suite  (where  Clement  VII. 
took  refuge  when  Bourbon's  troops  sacked  Rome),  and 
grand  view  from  top,  on  which  see  bronze  angel,  com- 
memorating Gregory  the  Great's  vision  of  Archangel 
Micliael  sheathing  his  sword  on  this  spot,  after  which 
the  nlague  ceased  to  devastate  Rome  (hence  name  of 
castle)       A  covered  way  runs  hence  to  the  Vatican. 
Near  by  is  enormous  S.  Spirit©  Hospital,  for  sick, 
aged,  lunatics,  and  foundlings  (open  2-4),  accommo- 
dating nearly  5,000  persons.     The  Borgo  Nuovo  leads 
by  several  chs.  and  palaces  [G-iraud,  Ricciardi,  etc.),  and 
the  Piazza  RnMicMcn,  where  Raphael  died,  to  the  mag- 
nificent  St.  Peter's    Square   {Piazza  di  S.  Pietro), 
1110  X  840  ft.  in  area,  surrounded  by  imposing  Doric 
colonnades,  built  by  Bernini  in  1667,  and  composed  of 


ROME.  351 

384  columns  and  90  pilasters,  each  41|  ft.  high.  On  the 
roofs  are  126  colossal  statues  of  saints.  In  centre  of 
square  (or  rather  circle)  stands  an  Obelisk  brought  by 
Caligula  from  Egyptian  lleliopolis,  and  set  up  here  in 
ISl^S":  2l1;  e;;ic;li  side  is  a  handsome  fountain  (4(3  ft.  high). 
Entrance  to  St.  Peter's  in  front ;  to  the  Vatican,  to  the 
r.,  at  end  of  colonnade.  St.  Peter's  was  built  by 
Co3i&taatine^(A.D.  -826'),  on  site  of  Nero's  circus,  where 
St.  Peter  was  martyred,  and  surrounded  by  ricli  chs., 
convents,  etc.  Charlemagne  and  many  emperors  and 
popes  were  crowned  there.  In  1450-1620  the  present 
eh.  was  built,  having  among  its  architects  Bramante, 
Raphael,  Peruzzi,  Michael  Angelo  (from  his  72d  to  79tli 
year),  Fontana,  and  Bernini.  It  cost  over  ^60,000^000 ; 
took  176  years  (the  reigns  of  28^  popes)  to  build;  and 
covers  240,000  sq.  ft.,  being  the  largest  ch.  in  the  world. 
Total  length,  696  ft.;  length  of  transept,  450  ft.; 
length  of  nave,  619  ft. ;  width  of  nave,  88  ft.  (height, 
158  ft.)  ;  height  of  dome  and  cross,  470  ft. ;  diameter, 
141  ft.  Fa9ade  (finished  in  1612),  869  ft.  long,  165  ft. 
high,  crowned  bv  statues  of  Christ  and  Apostles,  each 
19  ft.  high.  Portico,  284  X  43  ft.  (66  ft.  high),  with 
colossal  statues  of  Constautine  and  Ciiarleinagne,  Giot- 
to's mosaic  of  La  NaviceUa,  and  brazen  central  doors 
(made  in  1447).  Interior  has  80  altars,  148  columns 
(mostly  from  ruins  of  ancient  Rome)  ;  inlaid  marble 
pavement  (see  stones  showing  length  of  other  great 
chs.),  brilliantly  gilded  vaulting  upheld  by  Corinthian 
pillars  and  piers,  famous  bronze  statue  of  St.  Peter 
enthroned,  many  colossal  statues  of  saints,  vast  in- 
scriptions and  pictures  in  mosaic,  canopy  95  ft.  high 
made  by  Bernini  (1638)  of  bronze  from  Pantheon,  high 
altar  over  tomb  of  St.  Peter  (which  is  approached  by 
marble  stairs,  and  surrounded  by  112  ever-burning 
lamDs),  wooden  throne  of  St.  Peter,  many  vast  and 


352  THE  VATICAN. 

beautiful  chapels,  tombs  of  the  popes,  many  paintings 
by  great  masters,  and  statues  by  Michael  Angelo, 
Canova,  Thorwaldsen.  See  tombs  of  Maria  Sobieski, 
several  Stuart  princes,  Palestrina,  Christina  of  Sweden, 
etc.  In  Sacristy  (1775),  see  3  chapels,  many  rarf 
pictures  by  Giotto,  etc.  In  Treasury,  see  candelabra 
by  Cellini  and  Angelo,  Charlemagne's  dalmatic,  and  i 
rare  jewels.  The  Crypts  are  very  interesting,  with  many 
chapels,  mosaics,  carvings,  and  tombs.  137  popes  were 
buried  in  St.  Peter's.  The  Dome  (open  daily,  8-10), 
630  ft.  around,  rises  308  ft.  above  the  roof  (^to  which, 
142  steps).  Look  down  into  ch.  from  inner  gallery. 
Stairs  between  inner  and  outer  dome  to  Lantern  (grand 
view  over  Rome  and  Campagna),  whence  you  may  climb 
into  ball  under  cross  (large  enough  to  hold  16  persons). 
Walk  around  the  ch.,  outside,  to  see  its  vast  propor- 
tions. At  its  side  and  rear,  see  ancient  German  ceme- 
tery and  hospice ;  and  Palace  of  the  Inquisition  ^now 
barracks). 

The  Vatican,  the  largest  palace  in  the  worla,  ad- 
joins St.  Peter's,  and  has  20  courts  and  11,000  halls 
and  rooms.  Pope  Symmachus  founded  first  papal 
palace  here  in  498 ;  and  Charlemagne  dwelt  therein. 
After  return  from  Avignon  the  popes  lived  here,  desert- 
ing the  Lateran;  and  after  1450  the  palace  was  en. 
larged  by  successive  popes,  from  designs  by  Bramante, 
Bernini,  etc.  Notice  singular  uniforms  of  Swiss 
guards,  designed  by  Michael  Angelo.  Ascend  splen- 
did Scala  Regia  to  Sistine  Cliapel,  built  and  named 
for  Pope  Sixtus  IV.  in  1473,  133  X  45  ft.  in  area  (best 
light  at  morning).  Erescos  by  Signorelli,  Botticelli, 
€tc.  Magnificent  ceiling,  frescoed  by  Michael  Augelo 
((1508-11),  Creation,  Fall,  Deluge,  Prophets  and 
'Sibyls,  etc.  On  altar-wall,  64  ft.  wide,  Angelo's  terri- 
ble and  incomparable  Last   Judgment.      See  Pauline 


ROME.  353 

ChapeC  (1540),  Tt'ith  other  frescos  hj  Angelo ;  Sala 
Ducale,  frescos  by  Brill;  and  Scda  Regia,  historical 
frescos  by  Vasari,  etc.  The  Loggie  are  adorned  with 
Biblical  scenes,  from  Raphael's  designs,  and  beautiful 
stucco  work.  Raphael's  Stanze  are  4  rooms  con- 
faiuing  the  noblest  frescos  of  Raphael  (1508-20),  the 
Disputa,  Parnassus,  School  of  Athens,  Heliodorus^ 
Attila,  Liberation  of  St.  Peter,  etc.  The  Chapel  of 
i^icholas  V.  has  spiritual  frescos  by  Pra  Angelico 
(1447).  The  Picture-Gallery  contains  paintings 
taken  by  Napoleon  from  the  Roman  chs.,  and  placed 
here  when  brought  back  from  Paris.  See  Raphael's 
Transfiguration  and  Madonna  di  Foliguo,  Domeni- 
chino's  St.  Jerome,  and  works  of  Leonardo,  Pra  An- 
gehco,  Titian,  Guido,  MurUlo,  etc.  The  Museum  of 
Sculptures  (closed  Mou.  and  Tbur.,  2-4)  contains 
1,800  pieces,  including  Apollo  Belvedere,  Perseus  of 
Canova,  Laocoou,  Tuno,  Minerva  Medica,  Mercury, 
Torso,  Penelope,  Eros,  etc.  See  also  porphyry  sarcopha- 
gus of  Empress  Helena ;  Braccio  Nuovo  hall,  with  16 
splendid  ancient  columns  (alabaster,  etc.) ;  Belvedere 
Court;  Sola  delle Muse,  with  16  Carrara-marble  col- 
umns ;  Sala  Rotonda,  on  model  of  Pantheon ;  Hall 
of  Greek  Cross;  magnificent  Tapestry  of  Raphael 
(1515-16),  representing  Bibhcal  scenes ;  Gregorian 
Museum  of  Etruscan  Antiquities,  in  12  rooms  ;  Bgyptian 
Museum,  10  rooms;  Library  and  Archives,  200,000 
vols,  and  34,000  MSS.  (many  of  them  very  precious); 
papal  ma7iufaGtory  of  mosaic,  where  10,000  colors  and 
shades  of  glass  are  used  ;  and  gardens  of  Vatican. 

Stroll  down  the  riverside  Lungara,  nearly  1  M. 
long,  joining  the  Leonine  City  (where  are  St.  Peter's 
and  the  Vatican)  to  Trastevere.  Passing  under  Gate 
of  the  Holy  Spirit,  ascend  to  S.  Onofrio  ch.  (1439), 
with  tombs  of  Tasso  and  Mezaofanti      A.djaoent  moa- 


354   TRASTEVERE.  —  JANICULAN  HILL. 

astery  lias  Leonardo's  Madonna,  Tasso's  cell  and  oak. 
Farther  down  Longara,  see  fine  Palazzo  Salviati  (now 
civic  archives)  ;  Botanical  Gardens ;  very  beautifru- 
Villa  Farnesina  (1506),  with  Raphael's  famous  fres- 
cos of  Psyche  and  Galatea ;  and  Palazzo  Corsini 
(open  daily  10-4,  adm.  1  fr.),  with  9  halls  of  paint- 
ings, 8  of  books  and  MSS.,  and  a  garden  of  rare  beauty. 
Enter^  by  Porta  Settimiatia,  into  Trastevere  (from 
Trans-Tiber),  a  quarter  whose  inhabitants  claim  to  be 
direct  descendants  of  the  ancient  Romans.  See  12th- 
century  basilica  of  S.  Crisogono,  near  which  mosaic- 
paved  and  frescoed  house  of  No.  7  company  of  old 
Koraan  (3d-century)  fire  department ;  S.  Maria  Traste- 
vere, built  by  Calixtus  I.  (a.d.  217),  with  22  antique 
columns,  mosaics,  etc. ;  St.  Cecilia  (a.d.  222),  with 
mosaics,  broad  court,  portico  on  African-marble  col- 
umns, and  tomb  of  St.  Ceciliaj  whose  house  stood  on 
this  site. 

On  the  Janiculan  Hill  over  Trastevere,  command' 
ing  a  noble  panoramic  view  of  Rome  and  mts.,  see  S. 
Pietro  in  Montorio  (1500),  on  site  of  St.  Peter's 
martyrdom,  with  many  ancient  paintings;  Tempietto 
(1502)  in  court  of  adjacent  monastery,  with  16  Doric 
columns ;  Acqua  Paola,  a  magnificent  old  fountain, 
outlet  of  Trajan's  aqueduct ;  S.  Pancrazio  Gate  (fine 
views  near)  ;  and  Villa  Doria  Pamfili,  a  very  lovely 
park  and  casino.  This  trip  over  the  Janiculan  Hill 
should  not  be  omitted. 

Between  Trastevere  and  tlie  Ghetto,  in  the  Tiber,  is 
the  Island  of  S.  Bartoloninieo  (ancient  bridges 
'from  both  shores),  with  Ch.  of  S.  Bartolommeo  (built 
A.D.  1000),  with  14  ancient  columns,  on  site  of  a 
heathen  temple  (^sculapius  was  worshipped  here). 
The  island  also  has  ?  large  monastey,  and  ^  fountain- 
adorned  square.  '  "^ 


KOME.  355 

The  Capitol  is  reached  by  asr  lialt  stairs  ham.  Piazza^y^ 
Ara  Cceli,  with  Egyptiau  liows  at  base,  aud  marble 
Dioscari  (Castor  and  Pollux),  or  Horse-Tamers,  at  the 
top.  See,  also,  the  Trophies  oi  Marius  ;  antique  statues 
of  Constautiue  and  Con? tan?- j  and  male  and  female 
wolves,  caged.  The  Piczz^jt  del  Campidoglio,  planned 
by  Michael  Angelo  ^^d.&.  f>ailt  hj  Paul  III.  (1536),  has 
in  'ts  centre  the  famouG  and  unrivalled  antique  bronze 
equestrian  statue  of  MtirCiS  Aurelius,  anciently  sup- 
posed to  re^^reaeno  Coa^ta'ilme,  and  placed  before  the 
Lateran  from  IISJ  to  1538.  The  palaces  on  three 
sides  were  built  or  remodelled  by  Angelo.  The  Pal- 
ace oi  t'iiG  Coiiser-^^-tors  (r.  side ;  open  10-3)  con. 
taius  halls  of  busts  of  celebrated  Italians,  Latin  sculp- 
tures, Etruscan  museum,  great  halls  with  frescos  from 
Punic  and  Cimbriau  wars,  and  a  gallery  of  300-800 
paintings.  In  the  Capitoline  Museum  (1.  side ;  open 
10-3)  see  Marforio,  the  colossal  river-god,  and  sarco- 
phagi ;  hails  of  brou^es  and  urns ;  ancient  marble  plan 
of  llonie ;  exquisitely  fiue  mosaic  of  Doves  of  Pliny ; 
83  antique  busts  of  emperors ;  antique  statues  of  the 
philosophers  and  gods ;  and  vast  number  of  famous 
classic  sculptures,  including  Capitoline  Juno,  Amazon, 
Antinous,  rossO"antico  Faun,  Dying  Gladiator,  and 
Capitoline  Venus  (in  closed  cabinet).  The  Palace 
of  the  Senator,  at  end  of  square,  was  built  in  1389, 
and  adorned  by  Michael  Angelo.  It  is  now  the  town- 
hall.  The  campanile  (1573)  commands  a  fine  view, 
and  contains  great  bell.  Just  S.  E.  is  the  Tarpeian 
Rock.  Streets  lead  from  Capitol  down  into  Forum. 
High  over  Capitol  (long  stairway),  on  site  of  Temple 
of  Jupiter,  is  9th-cent.  Ch.  of  ^.  Maria  in  Ara  Cceli, 
with  homely  front,  and  interior  adorned  with  22  an- 
tique columns  of  assorted  si^'.es,  many  paintings,  chapel 
of  the  Bambino,  tomb  of  St.  Helena,  etc-     Adjacent  is 


356  TRAJAN'S  COLUMN. 

splendid  Franciscan  monastery  (1251),  with  two 
courts,  now  a  barrack.  While  hearing  the  monks 
chant  in  Ara  Coeli  (1764),  Gibbon  conceived  the 
idea  of  his  famous  history. 

The  Mamertine  Prison,  between  Ara  Coeli  and 
Forum  (fee,  ^1.).  was  built  by  the  early  kings  of 
Rome,  very  massively.  Here  were  slain  Jugurtha, 
Vercingetorix,  Joras,  and  Catiline's  allies ;  and  here  St. 
Peter  was  imprisoned  (they  show  pillar  to  which  he 
was  chained). 

Between  the  Forum  and  Tiber,  see  round  7th-cen- 
tury  Ch.  of  S.  Teodoro ;  temple  of  Janus  Quadrifrons^ 
built  in  Constantine's  time ;  4th-century  basilica  of  S. 
Giorgio  in  Velahro,  with  antique  columns ;  Arcu8  Ar- 
gent arius,  built  by  merchants  of  adjacent  Forum 
Boarium  (eattle-market)  to  Septimius  Severus ;  mouth 
<)f  great  sewer  of  Cloaca  Maxima;  3d-century  ch. 
of  8.  Maria  in  Cosmedin,  on  site  and  wilh  columns  ol 
King  Servius's  Temple  of  Fortune,  and  with  handsome 
8th-century  campanile;  round  temple  (of  Yesta,  or 
Hercules),  surrounded  by  19  (once  30)  Corinthian 
columns;  pretty  little  Ionic  temple,  now  Cli.  of  S. 
Maria  Er/iziaca;  House  of  Rienzi  (10th  century)  ;  and 
Ponte  Rotto  (Pons  jFmilius),  with  suspension-bridge 
filling  place  of  arches  swept  away  in  1598,  leading 
to  Trastevere. 

Trajan's  Column,  87  ft.  high  (138  ft.  with  base 
and  statue  of  St.  Peter),  is  surrounded  with  a  spiral 
bas-relief,  3  ft.  wide  and  660  ft.  long,  on  which  are  2,50G 
human  figures,  illustrating  events  of  Dacian  war,  Tra- 
jan was  buried  beneath.  Stairs  inside  to  top.  Close 
by,  see  remains  of  vast  Basilica  Ulpia,  built  a.d.  111- 
114,  by  ApoUodorus  of  Damascus,  for  Trajan,  and  once 
the  grandest  building  in  Rome.  See,  also,  chs.  of  Nome 
di  Maria  (1683)  and  Loreto  0-5 07).    Near  by  are  frag- 


EOME.  357 

ments  of  Forum  of  Augustus,  of  "wliicli  a  massive  wall, 
450  ft.  long,  and  3  columns  of  Temple  of  Mars  JJltor 
J  remain.  The  Academy  of  St.  Luke  (open  9-3)  contains 
I  statuary  by  Canova  and  Thorwaldsen,  and  many  fine 
'  old  paintings,  including  veiled  pictures  by  Titian,  etc. 
This  is  a  choice  collection.  Near  by  is  an  imposing 
I  fragment  oiNervas  Forum. 

Tlie  Palace  of  the  Caesars  consists  of  enormous 
ruins  on  the  Palatine,  the  original  site  of  early  Rome, 
where  dwelt  Evander,  Romulus,  Catiline,  Cicero,  Au- 
gustus, Tiberius,  Vespasian,  Odoacer,  Theodoric,  etc. 
Fifty  years  ago  the  Palatine  was  a  hill  of  vineyards,, 
with  convents,  but  the  emperors  of  Russia  and  France- 
began  excavations,  which  Italy  has  continued  (open 
daily,  adm.  1  f r. ;  Sun.  free) .  Enter  from  Forum, 
and  see  Museum,  with  articles  found  lie  re ;  foundations 
of  Caligula's  palace;  parts  of  Tiberius' s  palace;  hand- 
some private  house  of  Livia,  with  mural  paintings  ;  Fla- 
vian palace,  built  by  Vespasian;  platform  of  Temple 
of  Jupiter  Victor;  colonnades;  stairs  hewn  in  rock; 
school-house;  and  other  very  interesting  ruins.  (Get 
local  guide.) 

The  Forum  Romanum  was  a  marshy  space  be. 
tween  the  Capitol  and  Palatine,  the  battle-ground  of 
Sabines  and  Romans,  afterwards  the  centre  of  their  state, 
embellished  with  many  splendid  temples  and  statues,  the 
scene  of  many  famous  events,  and  seat  of  the  councils- 
which  ruled  the  world.  After  the  fall  of  Rome,  some 
of  the  temples  became  chs.  and  others  were  torn  down 
for  buildhig  materials ;  and  the  troops  who  came  to  the 
aid  of  Hildebraiid,  in  the  11th  century,  completed  the 
destruction.  Over  this  rubbish-heaped  Campo  Vaccina- 
(cow-pasture),  fortresses  and  houses  arose.  In  1536, 
Paul  III.  began  to  clear  the  gi  ound,  but  little  was  done 
uatil  1803.    Since  1871  extensive  works  have  been  cai> 


358  I  <UtUM  ROMANUM. 

ried  on.  The  original  level  was  30  ft.  below  the  pres- 
ent. The  remains  of  the  Tabularium  (built  B.C.  87), 
vast  vaults  for  archives  and  3,000  bronze  tables  of  de- 
crees and  records,  now  serve  as  foundations  for  Palace 
of  the  Senator.  See  its  ponderous  arcades  and  gallery, 
and  view  over  Forum.  The  marble  Arch  of  Septimius 
Severus  is  covered  with  sculptures  of  the  victories  of 
Septimius,  and  his  sons  Caracalla  and  Geta,  over  the 
Parthians  and  Arabians.  Erected  in  203,  it  became  a. 
medigeval  castle ;  was  excavated  in  1808.  Back  of  it  are 
remains  of  Temple  of  Concord  (b.c.  866,  restored  by 
Tiberius),  where  the  Senate  sometimes  met,  and  Cicero 
impeached  Catiline.  The  tali  white  columns  near  by 
pertained  to  the  Temple  of  Vespasian  (once  of  Jupiter 
Tonans),  built  by  Domitian  and  restored  by  Septimius 
and  Caracalla.  To  the  W.  stand  the  Schola  'Xantha,th.e  ■ 
home  of  the  official  scribes,  and  the  Colonnade  of  the 
Twelve  Gods  (built  a.d.  367,  by  an  anti-Christian  prse- 
f ect) .  8  granite  Ionic  columns  in  front  of  Vespasian's 
Temple,  pertained  to  Temple  of  Saturn.  Near  by 
were  the  orators'  tribunes  {rostra),  often  used  by 
Cicero.  Two  marble  slabs  from  the  rostra  have  beau- 
tiful reliefs.  Remains  of  the  tonih  of  Romulus  with 
early  Latin  inscriptions  were  unearthed  in  1899.  The 
Column  of  Phocas  was  erected  in  608,  in  honor  of  a 
Greek  emperor.  Near  by,  see  Basilica  Julia,  333  by 
149  ft.,  built  by  Csesar,  with  parts  of  its  many  pillars 
remaining.  3  Parian-marble  columns  still  stand  on 
site  of  splendid  Temple  of  Castor  and  Pollux  (built 
B.C.  484 ;  rebuilt  a.d.  6).  On  E.  are  foundations  of  Tem- 
ple of  CcBsar,  where  Mark  Antony  delivered  his 
funeral  oration.  The  Temple  of  Faustina  (a.d.  141), 
with  10  marble  columns,  encloses  the  ch.  of  S.  Lor- 
enzo in  Miranda.  An  ancient  burial  vault  was  dis- 
covered here  in  1902.  Numerous  vaulted  passages 
beneath  tho  pavement  of  the  Forum  were  discov- 
ered   during    the    excavations    in    1901.       Seventh 


ROME,  359 

century  ch.  of  S.  Adriano  is  on  site  of  Curia  Hostilia. 
The  Via  Sacra,  leading  from  S.  gate  of  Rome  to  Cap- 
itol, lies  30  ft.  below  the  road.  The  circular  Temple  of 
Uomulus  is  now  the  ch.  of  SS.  Cosmo  and  Damian,  with 
porpli3''ry  columus,  bronze  doors,  6th-century  mosaics, 
and  tombs  of  saints.  The  Basilica  of  Comtariiine,  origi- 
nally 300  by  264  ft.  in  area,  has  3  stupendous  arches 
remaining  (beautiful  view  from  top).  Back  of  ch.  qIS. 
Francesca  Romana  (iuterestiog  tombs  and  relics)  are 
ruins  of  once  superb  Temple  of  Venus  and  Rome,  de- 
signed by  Hadrian,  who  would  be  architect  as  well  as 
emperor  (a.d.  135).  The  marble  Triumphal  Arch  of 
Titus,  small,  but  very  interesting  and  graceful,  com- 
memorates the  victories  over  tlie  Jews,  a.d.  70.  It  was 
a  mediasval  fortress  of  the  Frangipani.  See  the  bas- 
reliefs.  Hence  the  Sacred  Way  descends  to  the  vast 
building  named,  from  colossal  statue  of  Nero,  tlie  Colos- 
seum,  Rome's  chief  marvel.  It  was  founded  by  Ves- 
pasian and  finished  by  Titus,  Jewish  captives  doing  the 
work  (a.d.  80) ;  10,000  men  and  5,000  beasts  were  slain 
at  its  inauguration ;  the  scene  of  countless  fights  of 
gladiators  and  wild  beasts;  and  of  magnificent  celebra- 
tion of  1000th  anniversary  of  Rome's  foundation  (a.d. 
248)  ;  afterwards  fortress  of  Frangipani,  Annibaldi, 
etc. ;  in  14th  and  15th  centuries  a  quarry,  its  fine  ma- 
sonry being  used  to  build  Farnese,  Cancelleria,  S.  Mar- 
co, and  other  vast  palaces  ;  about  1750  redeemed,  and 
consecrated  to  the  Passion  of  Christ.  It  is  an  ellipse,  \ 
M.  around  and  156  ft.  high,  with  arena  279  by  174  ft. 
in  area,  which  could  be  fiooded  for  naval  combats : 
50,000  spectators  could  be  accommodatecL  Duly ^  of 
the  Colosseum  now  stands  Yisit  it  by  moonlight  also. 
The  adjacent  Arch  of  Constantine,  the  most  beau- 
tiful in  Rome,  commemorates  the  victory  over  Max- 
entius  (311),  the  Pagan  emperor,  and  stands  on  the 


360  BATHS  OF  TITUS.  —  S.  STEFANO  ROTONDO. 

Triumphal  Way.  The  best  of  the  many  sculptures  were 
taken  from  an  older  monument  of  Trajan.  Pius  YII. 
unburied  this  arch  in  1804.  Close  by,  see  remams  of 
sumptuous  Baths  of  Titus  (|  fr.),  on  the  Esquiline, 
on  part  of  site  of  Nero's  Golden  House.  Beautiful  mu- 
ral paintings  here,  which  suggested  B-aphael's  frescos  in 
Vatican  loggie.  S.  Clemente,  the  oldest  ch.  in  Rome, 
is  midway  between  the  Colosseum  and  Lateran.  Up- 
per ch.  is  a  basilica,  with  16  antique  columns,  old  mo- 
saics, and  rich  canopy.  The  lower  ch.,  built  before  392, 
and  damaged  by  Guiscard's  Norman  army  (1084),  has 
been  excavated  since  1858.  It  has  16  antique  columns 
and  5th-c.entury  frescos  (very  interesting).  Still  far- 
ther down  are  remains  of  St.  Clement's  (4th  pope) 
house,  discovered  in  1867.  (See  Ilachettes  guide- 
book.) Near  by,  on  lonely  Celian  Hill,  see  ch.  of  SS. 
Quatro  Coronati,  to  4  saints  martyred  by  Diocletian, 
■ —  very  ancient,  destroyed  by  Guiscard's  Normans,  and 
restored  in  1111  ;  S.  Stefano  Rotondo,  the  largest 
circular  ch.  in  existence,  built  by  Simplicius  in  470 
with  56  columns  and  many  frescos  of  terrible  mar 
tyrdoms ;  La  Navicella,  rebuilt  in  817,  with  manj 
columns  of  granite  and  porphyry,  and  9th-century  mosa. 
ics ;  5th-century  SS.  Giovanni  e  Paolo,  with  Passionist 
monastery  and  garden ;  S.  Gtregorio  (575),  16  antique 
columns,  part  of  St.  Gregory's  house,  a  bit  of  Servian 
Wall,  and  3  very  interesting  detached  chapels. 

The  broad  Piazza  of  S.  Giovanni  in  Lateratio  has  a 
red-granite  obelisk  104  ft.  high  (with  pedestal,  153  ft.), 
erected  at  Thebes,  B.C.  1560 ;  brought  to  Pome  by 
Constaiitine,  a.d.  357;  and  set  up  here  in  1587.  On 
one  side.  Women's  Hospital;  opposite  which  see  Scala 
Santa,  28  marble  steps  (brought  to  Rome  by  Empresf 
Helena,  in  326),  by  which  Christ  is  said  to  have  entered 
Pilate's  palace,  at  Jerus^lem.^—Xhey  are  ascended  on 


ROME.  361 

the  knees  only,  and  lead  to  very  sacred  chapel  (1278). 
Here,  alongside  wall  of  Rome,  and  overlookmg  Cam- 
pagna  and  mts.,  stands  venerable  basilica  of  S.  Giovanni 
in  Lateran,  on  whose  front  is  inscribed  Omnium  urbis 
ei  orbis  eccledarum  mater  et  caput.  This  is  the  Pope's 
cb.  as  Bishop  of  Rome ;  at  St.  Peter's  he  is  sovereign 
Pontiff  of  the  world.  Five  ecumenical  councils  werp 
held  here,  between  1123  and  1513.  Constantine  built 
first  ch.  here,  on  site  of  palace  of  Laterani  family. 
Present  ch.  built  1360-1734.  Papade  with  colossal 
statues,  bronze  doors,  statue  of  Constantine.  Inte- 
vior  has  grand  nave,  with  4  aisles,  inlaid  pavement, 
inassive  pillars  with  21  statues  of  Prophets  and  Apos- 
tles, bronze  statue  of  Martin  Y.,  Altar  of  the  Sacrament 
(with  antique  columns  of  gilded  bronze),  many  fine  old 
mosaics,  Giotto's  fresco  of  Pope  Boniface  VIII.,  mag- 
nificent Corsini  Chapel  (inlaid  with  precious  stones), 
Torlonia  Chapel  (in  white  marble  and  gold),  Donatel- 
Io*s  wooden  statue  of  St.  John  the  Baptist,  Bernini's 
Pietk,  and  the  great  Papal  Altar,  over  which  is  a  canopy 
containing  heads  of  Sts.  Peter  and  Paul.  Beautiful 
13th-century  monastery  court  adjacent ;  also  octagonal 
Baptistery/,  in  which  it  is  said  that  Constantine  was 
baptized,  with  8  porphyry  columns,  basalt  font,  bronze 
doors  (1196),  7th-century  mosaics,  and  3  oratories 
Inbuilt  in  461  and  640).  In  adjacent  Lateran  Palace 
the  popes  iwelt  for  a  thousand  years  (to  1377).  Pres- 
ent palace,  ouilt  in  1586;  and  in  1843  converted  into 
vast  and  interesting  museum  (open  9-4)  of  antique 
sculptures.  Christian  sarcophagi  and  inscriptions  (irom 
catacombs),  and  picture-gallery  filling  8  rooms,  with 
remarkable  Latin  mosaics. 

S^  Croce  in  Gerusalemme,  among  lonely  iields 
he+weeH.  Aqua  Claudia  and  Roman  wall,  is  a  4th-cen- 
tury  basilica,  founded  by  Empress  Helena,  on  earth 


362  BATHS   OF   CARACALLA. 

brought  from  Jerusalem,  witli  mosaics,  frescos,  tombs 
of  saints,  and  the  Inscription  on  tlie  Cross.  Cistercian 
monastery  adjacent,  with  famous  library.  Also,  ruins 
of  Castremia?i  Amphitheatre,  etc.  To  N.,  ruins  of  3d- 
century  decagonal  Temple  of  Minerva  Medica,  once  rich 
in  statues  ;  aud  near  rly.,  ^iS*.  Bibiana  (470),  with  an- 
tique columns  inside.  In  casino  of  Villa  Massimo, 
on  Piazza  Lateran,  rich  modern  frescos  from  Dante, 
Tasso,  and  Ariosto,  by  Overbeck,  Sclmorr,  etc.  Villa 
Wolkonsky  near  by. 

The  marble-clad  brick  Pyramid  of  Cestius,  at  Porta 
S.  Paolo,  is  116  ft.  high  (base,  98  ft.  square),  with 
chamber  19  X  13  ft.,  where  the  tribune  Cains  Cestius 
•was  buried  (b.c.  30).  Close  by  are  the  Protestant 
Cemeteries,  with  graves  of  Keats,  Severn,  etc.,  and  of 
the  heart  of  Shelley.  See,  across  meadows,  the  lonely 
Monte  Testaccio,  164  ft.  high,  composed  entirely  of 
broken  pottery,  crowned  by  across  (grand  view  hence), 
and  cut  into  by  wine-sellers'  grottos.  To  the  N.,  see 
ancient  Latin  Emporium,  and  quays  of  Marmorata  ;  also 
3  chs.  on  Aventine  :  S.  Sabina,  built  in  425,  in  basilica 
form,  with  24  antique  Corinthian  columns  of  Parian 
marble,  and  open  roof,  and  adjacent  Dominican  mon- 
astery (beautiful  cloisters)  ;  8.  Alessio,  very  ancient, 
restored  in  1317,  with  Hieronymite  m.onastery  adjoin- 
ing ;  and  S.  Maria  Aventina,  with  tombs  of  Xnights  of 
Malta,  whose  priory  is  close  by. 

The  Baths  of  'Caracalla' (fee,  1 1.),  nearly  1_M. 
from  Arcli  of  Constantine  (by  8.  Balbina,  a  very  ancient 
ch.,  with  open  roof),  still  show  remains  of  their  an- 
cient vastness  and  magnificence.  They  cover  an  area 
1,080  ft.  square,  and  could  accommodate  1,600  bathers. 
Oaracalla  was  the  founder  (a.d.  312).  Many  famous 
sfetues  were  discovered  hei-e.  SdI©''  did  view  from  roof. 
Near  by,  seer  ch.  of  SS.  Nereo  ed  Achilleo,  built  by 


THE  APPIAN  WAY.  363 

Leo  Hi.  in  300,  on  site  of  Temple  of  Isis,  in  basilica 
style ;  S.  Sisto,  and  convent  of  S.  Domenif.o ;  very 
ancient  S.  Cesareo  ;  and,"  near  tlie  closed  Porta  Latina, 
old  clis.  of  S.  Gioiianni,  and  a  Latin  tomb.  Beyond 
Tomb  of  the  Sclpios  (^  fr.)  and  Columbaria,  the  street 
passes  the  mutilated  Arch  of  Brusus  (b.c.  8),  and  enters 
the  Appian  Way  at  S.  Sebastian  Gate. 

The  Appian  "Way  (called  Regina  Viaruni)  was 
begun  E.G.  312  by  Appius  Claudius,  and  ran  to  Capua, 
and  afterwards  to  Brindisi,  forming  main  route  to  S, 
Italy,  Greece,  and  Egypt.  By  order  of  Pius  IX.  it. 
was  excavated  as  far  as  Fratocchie,  11  M.  ont,  on  rly. 
to  Albano.  Beautiful  views  all  along,  of  Campagna, 
aqueducts,  and  Alban  Mts.  Beyond  Domine  quo 
Vadis  ch.,  a  path  leads  off  to  Temple  of  Deus  Rediculus, 
a  handsome  little  building  of  Hadrian's  era  ;  the  Grotto 
of  Egeria  ;  a  red-brick  2d- century  tomb,  or  temple, 
now  the  ch.  of  S.  JJrbano  (with  frescos  of  a.d.  1011)  ; 
and  the  tombs  on  the  Via  Latina.  On  Yia  Appia  are 
Catacombs  of  S,  Calixtus  (fee,  1-2  1.),  with  tombs 
of  St,  Cecilia  and  many  2d  and  3d  century  popes  and 
martyrs,  and  7th-century  Byzantine  paintings.  Gata- 
combs  of  Domitilla  and  St.  Pratextatus  near  by.  \  M. 
beyond  is  very  ancient  S.  Sebastiano  ch.,  under  which 
are  extensive  catacombs  (1 1.).  Farther  on  see  remains 
of  Circus  of  Maxentius,  built  in  311,  1,590  ft.  long, 
with  seats  for  18,000  people.  On  hill  beyond  stands 
the  famous  Tomb  of  Ccecilia  Metella,  round,  65  ft.  in 
diameter,  and  in  13th  century  a  tower  of  now  vanished 
castle  of  the  Gaetani.  Beyond,  the  Way  is  bordered  by 
ancient  tombs  on  either  side,  and  the  old  Latin  pavement 
is  the  road-bed.  Noble  views  of  the  mts.  and  the  far 
prolonged  arches  of  Aqua  Marcia  and  Aqua  Claudia.  6 
M.  out  is  Casale  Rotondo,  a  large  tomb ;  and  it  is  8  M. 
thence  to  Albano.     Near  4th  milestone  is  Tomb  of 


364:  THE  CAMPAGNA. 

Beneca  (so  called),  near  site  ot  Seneca's  housb,  and  also 
near  ruins  of  beautiful  little  Temple  of  Jupiter,  where 
many  Cliristians  suiFered  martyrdom.  3  tumuli,  1  M. 
beyond,  are  thought;  to  be  tlie  tombs  of  the  Horatii  and 
Curiatii.  At  9th  nulestone  are  ponderous  brick  ruins  of 
villa  and  tomb  of  Emperor  Gallienus. 

Excursions  near  Rome.  —  The  Campagna  is  a 
great  rolhng  plain  of  volcanic  earth,  between  the  sea 
and  the  Sabine  Mts,,  with  shallow  ravines  and  low  steep 
hills.  Pools  of  water  collect  here  in  winter,  and  stag- 
nate in  summer,  giving  forth  the  terrible  malaria  which 
makes  Rome's  vicinity  so  unhealthy.  But  every  tourist 
should  see  Italy  in  her  fair  summer  attire ;  and  an 
August  sojourn  may  be  made  at  Rome  with  safety,  by 
taking  due  precautions.  Trolley  cars  now  run  from 
Rome  to  Frascati,  Albano,  and  Genzano. 

The  patriarchal  and  pilgrimage  ch.  of  S.  Lorenzo  fu- 
ori  le  Mura,  f  M.  beyond  Porta  di  S.  Lorenzo,  on  tomb 
of  St.  Lawrence,  was  founded  by  Constantine ;  rebuilt 
in  578  ;  remodelled  in  1216  ;  and  restored  in  1864-70. 
See  bronze  statue  of  St.  Lawrence,  in  square ;  fapade 
with  frescos  of  founders  ;  10th-century  mosaic  pave- 
ment ;  22  antique  Ionic  columns  of  nave,  upholding 
open  roof;  lower  and  older  ch.,  with  12  noble  Corin- 
thian columns  of  pavonazzetto ;  violet-marble  columns 
in  presbytery ;  silver  shrine  with  remains  of  St.  Law- 
tence  ;  beautiful  13th-century  cloister  adjacent.  Great 
cemetery  near.  In  vestibule  Pius  IX.  is  buried.  The 
basilica  of  S.  Agnese  fuori  le  Mura,  beyond  the 
Patrizi  and  Torlonia  villas,  1^  M.  outside  Porta  Pia, 
was  built  by  Constantine,  over  St.  Agnes's  tomb,  and 
restored  in  625  and  1856.  Beyond  court,  45  marble 
steps  lead  down  to  the  cli.,  with  mosaics,  inlaid  altars, 
16  precious  antique  columns,  and  tabernacle  (with  por. 
phyry   columns)  over  alabaster  statue  of   St.  Agnes. 


ROME.  365 

Adjacent  is  S.  Costanza,  built  by  Constantine  as 
tomb  of  his  daughter  Constantia,  with  dome  resting 
on  24  columns  of  granite,  porphyry  sarcophagus  of 
Constantia,  and  4th  century  mosaics. 

S.  Paolo  fuori  le  Mura,  li  M.  from  Porta  S. 
Paolo  (omnibus  every  half  hour  from  Palazzo 
Venezia),  on  Ostian  road,  alongside  the  Tiber,  is  on 
site  of  a  deeply  venerated  church  built  by  Constan- 
tine, over  St.  Paul's  tomb,  and  magnificently  en- 
riched and  enlarged  by  emperors  and  popes,  but 
burnt  in  1823.  Present  church,  consecrated  in  1854, 
of  valuable  materials  and  imposing  proportions,  is 
390  X  195  ft.  in  area,  and  75  ft.  high  (inside).  Won- 
derfully impressive  nave,  and  four  aisles,  with  80 
enormous  Simplon-granite  columns,  whose  bases  and 
capitals  are  of  marble ;  long  lines  of  mosaic  portraits 
of  all  the  popes;  and  stained-glass  windows.  See 
alabaster  columns  given  by  Viceroy  of  Egypt ; 
malachite  altars,  given  by  the  Czar;  5th  century 
mosaics;  splendid  altar-canopy  (1285);  and  rich 
chapels.  Adjacent  is  beautiful  (now  secularized) 
Benedictine  cloister  (1220),  surrounding  orange- 
grove.  2  M.  hence  is  S.  Sebastiano  (p.  363);  and 
out  on  Via  Ardeatina  (1^-2  M.)  are  abbey  and  three 
chs.  (393-1599)  of  Tre  Fontane,  where  St.  Paul  was 
beheaded. 

The  handsome  Ponte  Molle,  1-^  M.  (dull  road) 
from  Porta  del  Popolo,  was  rebuilt  in  1815  on  site  of 
Mil vian  Bridge,  built  B.C.  109,  where  Maxentius  was 
slain,  after  being  defeated  by  Constantine  (a.d.  312), 
2  M.  out  is  Aqua  Acetosa,  a  famous  old  mineral- 
spring,  beyond  the  once  sumptuous  villa  which  Vig- 
nola  built  for  Pope  Julius  III.  Beyond  Ponte  Molle 
are  the  far-viewing  rock-tombs  of  the  Kasones,  the 
Villa  of  Livia,  and  the  famous  Valley  of  Poussin. 

Monte  Mario,  1^  M.  from  Porta  Angelica,  is  a  bold 
hill  (road  to  top),  476ft.  high,  commanding  superb 


366  TORRE  DEI  SCHIAVI.  —  ALBANO. 

view  of  Rome,  the  Campagiia,  tlie  mfs.,  and  tlie  sea. 
There  are  several  villas  here,  amoiip:  which  see  Villa 
Mellini,  famed  for  its  prospect,  and  Villa  Madama,  de- 
signed by  Raphael,  and  owned  in  turn  by  Clement  YII., 
the  Farnese  family,  and  the  King  of  Naples.  See 
loggia,  with  frescos  by  Giulio  Romano. 

The  Via  Nomenlana  leads  from  Porta  Pia,  2  M., 
from  which  it  crosses  the  Anio  by  an  ancient  bridge. 
1-|  M.  beyond  is  the  famous  Mons  Sacer;  and  the 
road  is  prolonged  to  the  battle-field  of  Mentana  (1867). 

The  Via  Pranestina  leads  from  Porta  Maggiore  to 
(2  M.)  the  Torre  dei  Schiavi,  a  favorite  resort  of 
artists.  It  is  a  large  group  of  very  obscure  ruins,  once 
pertaining  to  the  villa  of  Gordian,  and  in  Middle  Ages 
used  for  a  ch.  and  a  castle.  3  M.  from  Porta  Mag- 
giore, on  Via  Labicana,  are  the  ruins  of  the  mausoleum 
of  the  Empress  Helena  (now  a  ch.). 

The  Via  Campana  runs  along  the  Tiber,  from  Porta 
i'ortese  to  (5  M.)  the  Vigna  Ceccarelli,  with  scanty 
remains  of  temple  and  hall  of  ancient  agricultural 
brotherhood  of  the  Fratres  Arvales,  founded  by  the 
foster-brothers  of  Romulus,  to  invoke  the  Goddess  of 
Plenty.  Near  by,  see  well-preserved  Catacombs  of  S. 
Qenerosa ;  also  (near  MagUana  stat.),  chateau  of  La 
Magliana,  oace  frescoed  by  Raphael. 

The  Via  Salara  leads  from  the  Salarian  Gate  to 
(2:fM.)  the  ancient  stone  bridge  over  the  Anio,  de- 
stroyed by  the  Goths,  rebuilt  by  Narses,  and  blown  up 
in  1867.  On  far- viewing  height  close  by  stood  Antem- 
nse,  a  town  destroyed  by  Romulus ;  and  4  M.  beyond, 
near  Castel  Giubileo  (built  by  Boniface  YIII.  in  1300), 
ai'e  the  scanty  ruins  of  Pidenae. 

Albano  {Hotel  de  la  Poste ;     Ristorante   Salus- 
tri)    is   18  miles  from  Rome  (1  hr. ;  fares,  3 1.  90  c,  ' 
3 1.  10  c,  1 1.  90  c),  by  rly.  across  Carapagna,  crossing 


ITALY.  367 

lines  of  aqueducts  and  Via  Latina.  Climb  of  f  lir. 
(2^  M.)  from  stat.  to  Albauo  (omnibus,  -11.).  Omni- 
buses run  twice  daily  from  Rome  to  Albano  {2^  hrs.; 
2^  1.).  You  can  also  drive  hither  over  A'ppian  Way. 
At  Albano  were  Fompey's  Villa,  Domitian's  great 
Albanum,  the  vineyards  whose  wine  Horace  praised, 
and  the  mediaeval  fortress  of  the  Savelli.  It  has  manv 
Roman  relics,  especially  in  the  Villa  Doria  (open  to 
visitors).  The  high  situation  of  Albano  (1,250  ft.)  and 
its  pure  air  make  it  a  favorite  summer-resort.  The 
town  is  famous  for  handsome  women.  Beyond  the 
Villa  Barberini  is  the  large  papal  palace  of  Castel 
Gandolfo,  still  pertaining  to  the  Pope.  Beautiful 
view  from  Capuchin  Monastery.  Good  roads  on. 
upper  and  lower  galleries  on  E.  of  Lake  Albano,  an 
extinct  crater,  shaded  with  trees,  and  one  of  the  love- 
liest of  Italian  lakes.  The  Romans  (b.c.  397)  cut  a 
tunnel  (still  remaining)  through  the  rock,  and  partly 
drained  it,  in  obedience  to  an  oracle.  Alba  Longa  was 
near  by.  A  magnificent  arcaded  stone  viaduct,  1,020  ft. 
long  and  192  ft.  high  (built  1846-63),  crosses  the  glen 
from  Albano  to  ancient  Ariccia  (^Martorelli^,  a  town 
and  palace  pertaining  to  the  Chigi  family.  Roads  lead 
through  noble  old  forests  to  Rocca  di  Papa,  a  village 
near  reputed  camp  of  Hannibal.  ThQ  Via  Tnumphalis 
ascends  to  crest  of  Monte  Cavo  (3,130  ft.  high ;  very 
broad  view),  where  are  remains  of  great  Temple  of 
Jupiter  Latiaris,  the  chief  shrine  of  the  Latin  League 
(Passionist  monastery  founded  here  in  1783).  This 
region  is  described  by  Yirgil  in  last  books  of  j^neid, 
where  Juno,  from  Monte  Cavo,  observes  the  Latin  ar-d 
Roman  armies.  Beautiful  scenery  toward  Genzano 
{Torti),  3  M.  from  Albano,  whence  one  overlooks 
the  crystalline  Lake  ofN&mi,  2|  M.  around,  and  300  ft. 
deepj  in  an  extinct  crater.     Ovid  speaks  of  this  lako. 


868  FRASCATI.  -  TIVOLI. 

which  was  called  the  Mirror  of  Diana,  from  a  temple 
of  the  goddess  on  its  shore.  Here  Tiberius  had  a 
splendid  vessel  afloat. 

Frascati  {Frascati;  Pajinelli),  15  M.  by  ry.  from 
Rome  (fares,  2  1.  70  c,  2  1.  15  c,  1  1.  30  c),  is  on  a 
foot-hill  of  the  Alban  Mts.,  in  a  yery  healthy 
climate.  It  has  many  fine  old  16th  century  villas, 
among  which  see  AIdohra7idini,  with  fine  fountains 
and  oak  groves ;  Falconieri  (1550),  with  many 
pictures  and  pretty  gardens  ;  Ruffinella,  now  owned 
by  Prince  Lancelotti ;  Mondragone,  now  a  Jesuits' 
school ;  and  Piccolomini,  where  Baronius  lived. 
A  shaded  road  leads  hence  to  Tusculum,  founded 
by  Ulysses's  son  Selegonus,  the  birthplace  of  Cato, 
and  favorite  residence  of  Cicero.  It  held  out 
valiantly  against  Hannibal,  but  was  destroyed  by  a 
papal  Roman  army  in  1191.  See  Roman  amphi- 
theatre, recently  excavated  Villa  of  Cicero,  reser- 
voir, Camaldoli  Convent,  and  lofty  Citadel  (2,218 
ft.  high),  with  magnificent  view.  3  M.  distant, 
by  a  forest-road,  is  Grotta  Ferrata,  a  Greek 
Basilian  monastery  (founded  1002),  with  famous 
frescos  by  Domenichino.  Hence  a  guide  will  lead 
in  1-1  hrs.  to  Rocca.di  Papa  and  Monte  Cavo.  4^  M. 
distant  is  Marino,  an  old  Orsini  fortress  on  Alban 
Mts.,  captured  in  1424  (and  still  held)  by  the 
Colonnas.  Good  pictures  in  the  three  chs.  Three 
M.  hence  is  rly.  stat.,  35  min.  (2  1.,  H  1.,  1  1.) 
from  Rome.  Pleasant  road  also  to  Castel  Gandolfo 
and  Alban  o. 

Tivoli  (Plebiscito;  Regina;  Sihilla)  is  25  M.  from 
llome  by  ry.  (ret.,  4  1.  55  c,  3  1.  20  c,  2  1.  5c.)  or  car- 
riage (1-horse,  151. ;  2-horse,  201.),  passing  near  Qrotto 
of  Cervara.  This  was  the  ancient  Tibur,  founded  5 
centuries  before  Rome,  and  conquered  by  Camillus,  , 
B.C.  380.  Here  dwelt  Maecenas,  Horace,  Propertius  I 
and  Catullus ;  and  here  Zenobia  passed  her  captivity,  j 


ITALY.  369 

Augustus,  Hadrian,  and  other  emperors  and  nobles 
had  palaces  here.  It  is  now  a  huddled  town  of  7,000 
inhab.  1  M.  out  is  Hadrian's  Villa  (get  permit  at 
Palazzo  Braschi,  Rome),  once  the  finest  in  the  world, 
with  many  imposing  buildings, covering  several  square 
M.  It  was  destroyed  by  Totila's  Goths,  and  only  the 
most  fragmentary  ruins  remain.  The  beautiful  circular 
Corinthian  Temple  of  the  Sibyl  (probably  dedicated 
to  Hercules  or  Yesta)  and  the  oblong  Ionic  temple 
adjacent  (now  eh.  of  S,  Giorgio)  command  a  fine  view 
of  the  Falls.  Path  leads  to  Grotto  of  Neptune  and 
Sirens'  Grotto.  The  chief  fall  is  830  ft.  high;  tha 
smaller  falls  are  Le  Cascatelle.  Many  other  fine  bits  of 
scenery  here,  and  Roman  ruins  ;  also.  Villa  Braschi^ 
overlooking  Campagna,  and  Villa  d'  Este  (1549),  with 
very  lovely  gardens  and  ancient  frescos.  Many 
charming  excursions  hence  among  Sabine  Mts.  Monte 
Gennaro  (4,800  ft.)  may  be  ascended  in  6  hrs.  by 
bridle  path.  It  is  11|-  M.  from  Tivoli  to  Valley  of 
Licenza.  site  of  Horace's  Sabinum  farm.  23  Mo 
(5  hrs.)  up  Anio  Valley  is  Subiaco  {La  Pernice),  a 
mediaeval  castle-crowned  tov/n,  built  on  remains  of 
Nero's  villa,  and  with  very  famous  monastries  of  S. 
Scolastica  and  S.  Benedetto,  a  vast  group  of  cloisters 
on  site  where  St.  Benedict  lived. 

Palestrina,  22  M.  from  Rome  (daily  omnibus),  12 
from  Frascati,  4^  from  Vaimontone  stat.,  was  the 
ancient  Prceneste;  conquered  by  Camillus  (b.c.  380); 
headquarters  of  Marius;  favorite  Roman  summer- 
resort  (see  Horace);  scene  of  terrible  wars  between 
Colonnas  and  popes  in  Middle  Ages;  and  since  1630 
the  property  of  the  Barberini.  See  Cyclopean  walls, 
immense  but  shapeless  Roman  ruins,  Barberini 
Palace,  Colonna  fortress  (1322),  and  vast  view  over 
Campagna. 

Bracciano  (Piva),  24  M.  from  Rome  (omnibus 
alternate  days,  in  6  hrs. ;  4  1.),  has  a  wonderful  old 


370  OSTIA.  —  NAPLES. 

Gothic  castle  of  lava,  which  Sir  Walter  Scott 
greatly  admired.  It  was  built  by  the  Orsini,  and 
is  now  owned  by  Odescalchi.  Fine  view  from 
tower.  Adjacent  lake  Is  20  miles  around,  and 
abounds  in  eels. 

Ostia,  14  M,  from  Rome,  near  mouth  of  Tiber, 
once  had  80,000  inhab.,  but  now  has  scarcely  100. 
The  Saracens  were  terribly  defeated  here  about  a.d. 
850.  See  S.  Aurea  Episcopal  Palace,  and  tombs, 
temples  and  baths  of  adjacent  ruined  city  and  seaport 
of  classic  age.  2  M.  hence  is  very  interesting  Castel 
Fusano,  a  Chigi  stronghold  against  pirates,  1^  M. 
from  sea,  in  great  pme-forest. 

There  are  many  other  deeply  interesting  excursions 
near  Rome.  See  Hare's  Days  Near  Rome,  Baede- 
ker's Central  Italy,  Murray,  Haehette  or  Cook. 

Naples,  Baia,  Pompeii,  Sorrento,  Capri. 

Express  trains,   Rom^e  to  Naples,   5|-  hrs,  (fares, 
84J1.,  23^1.);   ordinary  trains,  9  hrs.  (fares  lower). 
Some  travellers  go  from  Rome  to  Civita  Vecchia  by 
rly.,  and  thence  by  steamer,  for  the  sake  of  the  lovely  « 
view  entering  the  Bay  of  Naples.  ■ 

Paris  to  Naples,  via  Turin,  Florence  and  Rome,  in 
53  hrs.  (fares,  246i  fr.,  203  fr.  10  c). 

Marseilles  to  Naples  oy  sea,  181  fr.,  128  fr.  Naples 
is  a  convenient  point  of  departure  for  Mediterranean 
ports.  Steamships  sail  frequently  for  Alexandria, 
Tunis,  Cagliari,  Messina,  Palermo,  Genoa,  Leghorn, 
and  Marseilles. 

Hotels :  Bertolini''s;  Parker^s;  Bristol;  Excelsior; 
MacpJierson's  ;  Eden  ;  Metropole  ;  du  Vesuve  ;  de 
Londres  ;  Grand  ;  des  Etrangers  ;  Splendid  ;  Santa 
Lucia;  Grande  Bretagne;  Riviera;  Victoria;  Savoy. 

Baggage  is  sometimes  examined  on  arriving  ar 
Naples,  by  excise  officers,  but  formalities  are  slight. 


NAPLES.  371 

Conveyances. — Hotel  omnibus,  1^1. ;  public  omni- 
bus, 20  c.  Baggage,  20  c.  a  piece.  2-horse  cab,  1 1. 
40  c. ;  1-horse  cab,  70  c.  Smallboats  from  steamship 
to  shore,  1 1.  each  person,  1^  with  usual  baggage.  Pay 
no  attention  to  extortionate  demands,  with  which 
boatmen  usually  begin.  Beware  of  beggars  and 
people  who  offer  their  services. 

A  rly.  runs  N.-E.  (124  M. ;  5-6  hrs.)  from  Naples 
across  Italy,  by  Benevento,  to  Foggia,  on  the  Adri- 
atic, connecting  there  with  rly.  to  Brindisi  and 
Taranto,  on  S.,  and  Ancona  and  N.  Italy,  ^j  this 
route  it  is  19-20  hrs.  to  Bologna. 

The  rly.  from  Rome  to  JSlaples  passes  Velletri,  an 
ancient  Volscian  town  (16,500  inhab.),  with  fine  old 
Cathedral;  Sgurgola,  4^-  M.  from  Anagni,  a  famous 
old  papal  town;  Ferentino  stat.,3  M.  from  Ferentino, 
a  venerable  Hernician  hill-town,  with  castle,  cathedral 
and  huge  polygonal  walls;  Frosinone  sta.t.,2i  M.  from 
beautifully  situated  hill-town  oi  B  rosiiione,  and  9-10 
M.  from  very  curious  old  Alatri,  with  cyclopean  walls; 
Ceprano  stat.,  2|-  M.  from  Ceprano,  and  the  stat.  for 
Falls  of  the  Liris  and  Cicero's  Villa ;  Aquino,  birth- 
place of  Emperor  Pescennius  Niger,  Juvenal,  and 
Thomas  Aquinas ;  Cassino  (or  S.  Germano),  a  busy 
town,  with  Koman  amphitheatre,  Varro's  Villa,  and 
tombs  (a  climb  of  1^  hr.  leads  to  the  world-renowned 
and  magnificent  Benedictine  monastery  of  Monte 
Cassino,  with  hospitable  monks  and  peerless  views) ; 
Teano,  with  great  castle  and  Roman  remains ;  Capua, 
a  town  of  14,000  inhab.,  in  broad  plain  of  Campania 
Felice,  with  noble  basilica,  fortress,  triumphal  arch, 
ancient  chs. ;  and  8.  Maria,  on  site  of  ancient  Capua, 
with  amphitheatre  for  100,000  persons,  and  other 
Roman  ruins.  The  rly.  runs  thence  over  the  vast  and 
populous  plain  of  the  Terra  di  Lavoro,  to  Naples. 

Naples  is  a  city  of  500,000  inhab.,  with  little  of 
architectural  or  antiquarian  interest,  but  blest  with  a 


372  NAPLES.  —  CHIAJA. 

swperb  situation,  mild  climate,  and  beautiful  enviro^is. 
It  is  built  on  the  amphitheatrical  slopes  of  hills,  shelter- 
ing  it  from  the  N.  wind,  and  nearly  bisected  bj  the 
abrupt  ridge  ofS.  Elmo  and  Pizzofaleone.  Its  view 
includes  a  semicircle  of  azure  sea,  the  villages  around 
the  bay,  and  many  picturesque  hills.  The  busy  and 
crowded  Via  Roma,  still  popularly  called  by  its  old 
name  of  Via  Toledo,  runs  N.  1|'  M.  from  Palazzo 
Reale,  near  the  harbor.     The  vast  and  interesting 

National  Museum  (open  daily,  9-3,  11.,  children, 
■|  1. ;  no  fees  allowed  ;  free,  Sunday,  10-1),  is  in  old 
Spanish  cavalry-barracks  (1586),  occupied  by  Univer. 
sity,  1615-1780.  There  is  a  good  handbook.  See 
1,600  ancient  mural  paintings,  from  .Pompeii,  etc. ; 
epigraphic  collection  ;  long  range  of  rooms  with  Egyp. 
tian  and  Etruscan  antiquities  ;  finest  existing  collection 
of  ancient  bronzes,  including  Dancing  Faun,  Narcissus, 
Mercury,  Sleeping  Eaun,  and  bust  of  Seneca ;  18,000 
small  bronze  objects  from  Pompeii,  etc. ;  immense  collec- 
tions of  ancient  glass,  terra-cotta,  Cumaean  antiquities, 
numismatic  objects  ;  many  marble  and  bronze  statues, 
including  Earnese  Bull  (restored  by  Michael  Angelo), 
Earuese  Hercules,  Venus,  Wounded  Gladiator,  Ocean, 
Elora,  Nile,  Earnese  Juno,  jEschines,  Balbus ;  famous 
mosaics  of  Battle  of  Issus  and  Triumph  of  Bacchus ; 
great  collection  of  papyri  MSS.,  from  Herculanenm ; 
7  rooms  full  of  Greek  and  Italian  vases ;  and  gems, 
jewels,  food,  and  silver  plate  from  Pompeii.  The  Pic- 
ture Gallery  has  800  paintings,  Neapolitan,  Tuscan, 
Bolognese,  lloman,  Venetian,  German,  and  Elemish, 
including  several  by  Raphael,  Titian,  and  Correggio. 
The  Library  (open  9-3)  has  200,000  vols.,  4,000 
MSS.,  and  many  valuable  autographs. 

The  Chiaja,  seat  of  chief  hotels  for  foreigners,  is  a 
narrow  strip  between  the  S.  Elmo  and  Posihppo  ridges 


NAPLES.  373- 

and  tha  harbor,  with  pretty  parks  (music  at  evening) 
along  waterside.  On  E.,  projecting  into  the  sea,  is  the 
black  and  gloomy  Castel  dell'  Ovo  (1154),  often 
besieged,  and  now  a  prison.  Thence  Strada  S.  Lucia 
leads  to  Arsenal,  through  busy  and  interesting  scenes. 
Overhead  is  hill  of  Pizzofalcone,  over  which  one  may 
pass,  by  the  lion-guarded  Victory  Column  of  the  martyrs 
for  liberty,  and  the  Miranda  Palace,  to  the  centre  of 
the  city. 

The  Palazzo  Reale  (its  porter  gives  permits  to  al! 
the  Neapolitan  royal  palaces)  was  built  in  1600,  by 
order  of  Philip  III.  of  Spain,  and  rebuilt  in  1837-4!l.  It 
is  554  ft.  long,  with  grand  staircase,  throne-room,  and 
many  fine  old  paintings  and  carvings,  and  view  of  harboi 
from  garden.  Opposite,  across  handsome  Piazza  del 
Plebiscito,  is  S.  Francesco  di  Paola,  a  copy  of  Roman 
Pantheon,  with  80  marble  Corinthian  columns  support- 
ing dome,  altar  covered  with  jasper  and  lapis  lazuli,  and 
many  modern  pictures.  Near  by,  see  Palace  of  Prince 
of  Salerno  ( official  residence ) ,  Eoresteria  Palace,  and 
Canova's  equestrian  statues  of  the  Bourbons,  Charles 
III.  and  Perdinaid  I.  Alongside  Palazzo  Reale  is 
Theatre  of  S.  Carlo  (1737),  one  of  the  largest  in  tlie 
world.  See  public  scribes  in  arcades  ;  and  statues  of 
Horse-Tamers,  before  palace-gardens.  The  great  Cas- 
tel Nuovo,  built  by  Charles  of  Anjou  in  1283,  and 
enlarged  in  1442,  1546,  and  1735,  was  the  home  of 
the  Anjou  and  Aragon  sovereigns,  and  the  Spanish 
viceroys.  See  beautiful  Triumphal  Arch  (1470),  armory, 
and  ch.  of  S.  Sebastiano,  with  very  famous  picture. 
Close  by,  see  Arsenal  (1577)  ;  Porto  Militare,  with 
Italian  iron-clads  ;  busy  Porto  Grande  —  the  shipping 
harbor ;  and  Molo,  a  long  breakwater,  with  battery  and 
light-house  (ascend  this,  for  view)  Across  the  square 
before  Castle  stands  handsome  Mtiidcipal  Palace. 


374  s/APLES.  —  UNIVERSITY. 

S.  Giacomx,^  degli  SpagnuoU  (1540)  has  splendid 
jnausoleum  of  Spanish  Viceroy,  Don  Pedro  de  Toledo^ 
Near  by  is  beautiful  fountain,  erected  in  1695  by  Duke 
of  Medina  Celi;  also,  Incoronata  ch.  (1352),  with  in- 
teresting  Giottesqne  frescos ;  and  Falazzo  Fondi,  with 
picture-si:allery. 

The  Monte  Oliveto  Benedictine  Monastery  (1411), 
on  Via  di  Roma,  is  now  a  market.  Here  Tasso  dwelt 
in  1588.  In  ch.  see  many  notable  old  tombs  and  pic- 
tures.  In  the  rear,  see  S.  Maria  la  Nuova  (1268 ; 
restored  in  1596),  with  famous  frescos  and  tombs  ;  and 
Post-Office,  in  beautiful  old  Palazzo  Oravitia  (1500). 
Farther  along  Via  di  Roma,  see  Palazzo  Maddaloni  (now 
a  bank),  with  richly  frescoed  hall;  and  Palazzo  Angri 
(1773),  once  Garibaldi's  headquarters.  Strada  S.  Trinita 
leads  to  r.  towards  Gesu  Nuova  ch.  (1584),  with  many 
frescos  (opposite  is  refectory  of  S.  Chiara,  with  Giot- 
tesqne frescos) ;  S.Chiara  (1310),  witli  burial-chapel  of 
Bourbons,  splendid  monument  of  Robert  the  Wise 
(1343),  pulpit  on  4  lions,  and  Madonna  by  Giotto; 
lofty  and  imposing  S.  Domenico  (1285),  on  a  square 
between  palaces,  and  containnig  27  princely  chapels, 
rich  in  Renaissance  art,  altar  of  Florentine  mosaic, 
tombs  of  the  Aragonese  sovereigns,  and  of  many 
nobles  and  prelates,  banner  and  sword  (and  tomb)  of 
Marquis  of  Pescara  (Vittoria  Colonna's  husband),  and 
many  pictures ;  cell  and  lecture-room  of  Thoma§ 
Aquinas  (1272)  ;  Chapel  of  S.  Seoero  (1590),  crowded 
with  decoration,  and  containing  remarkable  sculptures 
of  Man  in  the  Net  and  Christ  in  Winding- Sh eet ; 
^.S'.  Angela  e  Nilo  (1385);  University  (1224),  in 
old  Jesuit  College,  with  5  faculties,  and  very  good 
library  (open  9-3)  •  S.  Severino  e  Sosio,  with  notable 
tombs  and  frescos,  and  beautiful  cloisters  in  rear  (adja* 
cent   Benedictine  monastery  has  pricsiess  archives  of 


NAPLES.  375 

Naples,  40,000  parchments,  beginning  a.  d.  703);  Pa- 
lazzo Santangelo  (1466),  with  picture-gallery;  Cas- 
tello  Capuano  (1231),  once  home  of  Hohenstaufen 
kings,  and  seat  (after  1540)  of  Spanish  and  present 
law-courts;  and  Capuan  Gate  (restored  in  1535), 
a  noble  piece  of  architecture.  The  Cathedral,  not 
far  from  the  Gate,  was  built  1272-1314,  on  site  of 
Temple  of  ISTeptune.  It  is  a  basilica,  with  shrine  and 
tomb  of  St.  Januarius,  many  frescos,  and  tombs  of  2 
popes,  2  kings  of  hnngary,  etc.  Adjacent  is  S. 
Restituta,  a  basilica  with  Corinthian  columns,  and 
baptistery  attributed  to  Constantine  (a.d.  333);  also, 
magnificent  Chapel  of  St,  Januarius  (1608),  rich  in 
gold  and  silver,  precious  stones,  and  other  adorn- 
ments, and  enshrining  the  blood  of  the  saint.  1^  M. 
beyond  Capuan  Gate  are  the  great  cemeteries,  the 
Netv,  with  Doric  ch.,  Gothic  monastery,  and  102 
chapels;  the  Old,  with  365  closed  vaults  for  the 
burial  of  tlie  poor;  and  the  Protestant,  with  many 
English  and  American  graves. 

Between  Castello  Capuano  and  harbor,  see  SS, 
Annunziata  (1757);  Porta  Nolana ;  the  huge  Cas- 
tello del  CarmiJie  (1484),  now  a  barrack  and  prison; 
S.  Maria  del  Carmine,  with  tomb  and  noble 
statue  of  King  Conradin;  Piazza  del  Mercato 
(where  Conradin  was  executed,  in  1268),  with  three 
fountains;  Carmine  Gate,  with  .two  massive  towers; 
and  a  very  extensive  quarter,  with  scores  of  narrow 
and  sinuous  streets,  crowded  with  picturesque  Nea- 
politans, macaroni-pedlers,  story  tellers,  fishermen, 
etc.  S.  Giovanni  a  Carhonara  (1344),  N.  of  Cathe- 
dral, has  splendid  mausoleum  of  King  Ladislaus 
(1414).  Farther  ]S[.  are  Botanical  Gardens  and  vast 
Poor-HJouse.  Between  Cathedral  and  Via  di  Roma, 
see  >S'.  Filippo  Neri  (1592),  rich  in  paintings;  S. 
Paolo  Maggiore  (1691),  in  whose  cloisters  are  many 
ancient  Roman  columns;   S.  Lorenzo  (1266),  with. 


376         CASTEL  SANT'  ELMO, 

many  frescos  and  fine  cloisters  (Petrarch  and  Boccaccio 
have  been  here) ;  the  Gothic  aS'.  Pietro  a  Maiella  (1316), 
with  monastery  adjacent,  now  a  school  of  music,  where 
Bellini  was  taught,  and  Mercadante  was  director. 

Opposite  Museum  stands  Ginnado  Vittorio  Emanuele 
(1757),  with  26  statues,  and  a  statue  of  Dante  in  front. 
From  8th-century  ch.  of  S.  Gennaro^  enter  the  Cata- 
combs (fee,  11.),  excavated  by  ancient  Christians, 
and  much  broader  and  higher  than  those  at  Home. 
Myriads  of  dead  have  been  buried  here.  Farther  out 
is  Capodimonte  Palace  (fee,  1 1.),  built  for  the 
Bourbon  kiugs  (1738-1839),  with  long  lines  of  state. 
rooms,  many  pictures,  rich  furniture,  a  large  garden, 
and  lovely  views,  f  M.  distant  is  the  Observatory,  on 
far- vie  wing  crest  of  Capodimonte. 

Castel  Sant'  Elmo  (1343),  876  ft.  above  the  bay, 
is  reached  by  a  street  from  the  Museum.  It  is  a  vast 
and  ponderous  fortress  (now  military  prison)  overlook- 
ing the  city  and  sea.  Close  by  is  old  Cavthusiau 
monastery  of  S.  Martino  (now  part  of  National  Mu- 
seum; open  9-5  ;  11.),  built  in  1325.  See  museum  of 
majolica,  ivories,  etc.;  very  beautiful  cloisters,  sur- 
rounded by  white-marble  columns,  and  adorned  with 
statues ;  and  magnificent  ch.,  lined  with  choice  marbles 
and  mosaics,  and  adorned  with  famous  paintings. 
Exquisite  views  from  this  monastery. 

Excursions  from.  Naples.  —  Beyond  the  Chiaja 
and  Villa  Naziouale,  witli  tlieir  statues,  temples,  and 
aquarium,  the  Mergellina  extends  along  the  shore, 
under  Posilippo,  with  beautiful  sea- views,  and  by  nu- 
merous villas,  and  the  insulated  17th-century  Palace 
of  Bonna  Anna  (now  in  ruins).  Near  the  Chiaja  stands 
ancient  ch.,  in  which  is  the  great  mausoleum  of  th^ 
poet  Sannazaro  The  road  W.  from  the  Chiaja  leads 
througli  Grotta  di  Posilippo,  a  well-lighted  tunnel  id 


ITALY.  377 

the  rock, "4-  M,  long,  replacing  grotta,  now  closed,  cut 
through  by  Augustus,  and  mentioned  bj  Seneca.  Over 
its  E.  end  is  so-called  Tomb  of  Virgil  (^  I.),  a  Roman 
tomb  with  recesses  for  urns.  Petrarch  and  King 
Robert  visited  tliis  spot,  and  planted  laurel.  Near  bj 
was  Virgil's  villa,  where  he  wrote  the  Eclogues  and 
Georgics.  Road  through  tunnel  leads  to  Grotto  of 
Sejanus  (11.).  ^  tunnel  cut  through  the  rocky  ridge 
by  Nerva  (b.c.  37),  and  repaired  by  Honorius  (a.d.  400). 
It  is  f  M.  long,  and  higher  and  wider  than  Posilippo 
tunnel.  Near  by,  see  many  remains  of  villas  of  Lucul- 
lus,  PoUio,  and  other  Roman  lords.  Also,  on  islet  of 
Nisida,  site  of  villa  where  Cicero  visited  Brutus 
(b.c.  44),  after  he  had  killed  Csesar;  and  afterwards  of 
Queen  Johanna  II.'s  villa  (15th  century).  The  Lake 
of  Anagno  (a  crater;  now  drained)  is  f  M.  from 
fuorigrotta.  (where  see  tomb  of  Leopardi,  in  ch.) ; 
and  near  by  are  singular  ancient  baths  of  sulphurous 
gas;  also,  Grotto  del  Cane,  famous  for  carbonic-acid, 
whose  effects  are  tried  on  unhappy  dogs.  It  is  6  M. 
from  Naples  over  this  road  to  Pozzuoli,  on  site  of 
Greek  colony  conquered  by  Rome,  and  later  chief  port 
of  Italy,  and  depot  of  Oriental  trade.  Here  Sylla 
died ;  Hadrian  was  buried ;  St.  Paul  sojourned  7  days ; 
and  Cicero  had  a  villa.  See  remnants  of  Temples  of 
Serapis  (formerly  very  splendid),  Neptune  (pillars 
rising  from  sea),  and  ^kx^Nym-phs ;  many  Roman  tombs  ; 
Piscina  Grande,  a  great  reservoir;  Capuchin  monastery 
(1580);  Roman  quay,  now  called  Bridge  of  Caligula; 
Cathedral,  with  tomb  of  Pergolesi ;  and  Amphitheatre 
(1 1.),  seating  30,000,  where  Nero  gave  gladiatorial 
combats  before  the  King  of  Armenia,  and  St.  Januariug 
was  exposed  to  the  hons.  Near  by,  see  Solfatara,  a. 
low  crater  with  warm  earth,  hot  alum  springs,  and 
many  fissures  whence  gases  rise  (last  eruption  of  lava 


378  tjAIA.  —  crMJS. 

m  1198)  ;  and  Monte  Nuovo,  a  volcanic  hill  (now  vine* 
yards)  thrown  up  in  1538.  To  the  W.  lies  Lah 
Lucrinus,  whence  the  Romans  obtained  their  best  oys 
ters,  and  tlie  Neapolitans  get  choice  fish.  Lake  Aver, 
aus,  a  picturesque  crater-pond,  1^  M.  around,  amid 
chestnut  and  orange  groves,  was  held  to  be  the  entrance 
to  the  infernal  regions,  until  Augustus  made  it  a  harbor 
by  cutting  a  canal  to  Ihe  bay.  The  fabled  entrance  to 
Hades  is  shown  in  adjacent  Qrotto  of  the  Siljyl  (1 1.), 
a  tunnel  840  ft.  long.  The  Grotta  delta  Face,  \  M. 
long,  leads  from  W.  shore  towards  Cumse,  catting 
through  intervening  ridge. 

The  Baths  of  Nero  are  long  rock-passages,  containing 
hot  springs,  in  whose  waters  eggs  may  be  cooked. 

Baia  (Uegina^  was  the  most  magnificent  of  summer- 
resorts  in  time  of  Cicero,  Augustus,  and  Hadrian,  and 
ivas  praised  by  Horace.  The  Saracens  destroyed  it; 
and  the  Spanish  viceroys  built  a  castle  and  light-house 
an  the  site.  Here  are  massive  ruins  of  temples  of 
Vquus,  Diana,  and  Mercury,  villas  of  Julius  Caesar, 
Nero,  and  Hortensius,  a  splendid  Roman  reservoir,  and 
other  remnants  of  antiquity.  To  the  S.  is  Cape  Mi- 
Beno,  near  site  of  great  Roman  naval  station  of 
Misenum,  and  commanding  a  superb  view.  1  M.  from 
Baia  is  Lake  ofFusaro,  1^  M.  N.  of  which  are  ruins  of 
great  Cnmae,  which  was  founded  by  Greeks  (b.c.  1050), 
and  had  profound  infljience  in  Italy,  founding  Naples, 
giving  the  Sibylline  books  to  Rome,  receiving  the 
Tarquins,  defeating  the  Etruscans,  and  finally  con- 
quered by  the  Samnites  and  Romans.  The  Goth? 
restored  it,  but  the  Moslems  destroyed  the  town ;  and 
6  centuries  ago  the  Neapolitans  annihilated  it,  as  a  den 
of  pirates.  Near  l>y,  see  Acropolis,  with  fortifications 
and  noble  views  ;  half-buried  Amphitheatre  ;  fragments 
of  old  temples;  and  huge  brick  arch  of  Arco  Felice, 
U  ft.  high. 


VE.«UVIUS. — HEKCULANirnM.  379 

Pozzuoli,  Baia,  Cumse,  etc.,  may  be  seen  in  1  day 
by  carriage  (25  1. ;  1-horse  carriage,  10-12  1.).  Take 
guide  from  Naples  (5  I.),  to  escape  local  annoyances. 

Mount  Vesuvius  is  about  4,000  ft.  high,  and 
30  M.  around,  isolated  on  the  Plain  of  Campania,  and 
with  80,000  people  living  in  its  chestnut  valleys.  In 
A.D.  79  it  had  a  terrible  volcanic  eruption  (described 
by  PHny  and  Tacitus),  since  which  60  or  more  have 
occurred,  entailing  vast  losses  of  life  and  the  annihi- 
lation of  many  villages  and  cities.  Enormous  losses 
were  caused  by  the  eruption  of  1872.  Of  a  crowd 
which  watched  its  beginning,  20  persons  were  swept 
away  and  destroyed  by  the  outbursting  iava.  The  cable 
road  now  obviates  much  of  the  labor  formerly  neces- 
sary in  ascent.  Beautiful  view  from  Ohservatory ;  and 
from  summit  you  can  see  a  vast  area  of  sea  and  land. 
Excursion  from  Naples  to  summit  and  return ,  21  1. 
exclusive  of  fees  of  ofS.cial  guidv.  at  summit. 

Herculaneum,  founded  by  Hercules,  and  later  a 
town  of  Roman  villas,  was  buried  by  an  eruption  of 
Vesuvius,  AD.  79,  and  discovered  in  1719,  when  a 
well  was  being  dug.  Since  then,  excavations  have 
shown  that  40-90  ft.  beneath  the  present  town  of  Resina 
is  a  large  and  splendid  ancient  city,  whose  statues, 
mural  paintings,  papyri,  etc.,  are  adorning  the  mu- 
seums. It  was  richer  than  Pompeii,  but  is  much  more 
deeply  buried,  and  under  a  more  impenetrable  covering. 
Little  has  yet  been  excavated,  but  that  little  should  be 
seen  (2  1.  for  guide  and  torch).  The  residences  and 
shops  excavated  in  1868  are  very  interesting;  the 
theatre,  though  immense  in  size,  is  too  dark  to  be  well 
seen.  ■^ 

Pompeii  (Suisse;  Diomede)  is  nearly  1  hr.  from 
Naples  (5  trains  daily ;  fares,  2 1.  75  c,  1 1.  90  c, 
11.   10  c),  by  rly.  passing  through  Portici  (1^^,00^ 


380  _       POMPEII. 

jihab.)  ;  Resina,  near  La  Favorita,  royal  chateau,  and 
at  foot  of  Vesuvius ;  and  Torre  del  Greco,  swept  by  4 
streams  of  lava  witbin  300  years.  Beautiful  views  of 
bay  and  volcano.  Read  about  Pompeii  before  going 
there.  Near  Pompeii  stat.  is  entrance  to  ruins  (21.; 
guide  furnished :  no  gratuity ;  stay  as  long  as  you  lilce). 
Pompeii  was  a  Greek  commercial  city  (b.c.  400-500), 
which  was  subjugated  by  Rome,  and  became  a  favorite 
resort  of  her  nobles  and  emperors  (with  25,000  inhab.). 
It  was  overthrown  by  earthquake,  a.d.  63 ;  rebuilt 
immediately;  and  in  79  buried  under  20  ft.  of  ashes 
from  Vesuvius,  when  2,000  citizens  lost  their  lives. 
Excavations  were  begun  in  1748,  and  are  still  going 
on.  The  walls  are  1^  M.  around,  with  8  gates.  The 
streets  are  14-24  ft.  wide,  paved  with  deeply  rutted 
lava  blocks,  with  stepping-stones  and  fountains  at  cor- 
ners. The  concrete  or  brick  lower  stories  of  houses 
remain;  the  other  stories  were  burnt.  The  shops, 
taverns,  homes,  street-notices,  etc.,  are  very  interesting. 
Note  Temple  of  Venus ;  Forum,  where  main  streets 
converged,  with  Temple  of  Jupiter,  Prison,  Basilica^ 
Triumphal  Arch,  Public  Granary,  Temple  of  Mercury y 
beautiful  Chalcidicmn,  Town  Hall,  Temple  of  Augustus, 
See  House  of  Wild  Boar  in  Street  of  Abundance; 
Triaiigular  Forum  ;  the  two  Theatres;  barracks  of  the 
soldiers;  House  of  Sculptor ;  Stabia  Gate;  Temple  of 
Isis;  House  of  Holconius ;  vast  amphitheatre ^  which 
seated  20,000.  Thence  visit  Stabian  Thermae,  Balcony 
House,  Houses  of  Siricus  and  Marcus  Lucretius,  of  the 
Chase,  of  Ariadne,  of  Grand "  Duke  of  Tuscany,  of 
Figured  Capitals,  of  Black  Walls  ;  Temple  of  Fortune; 
Public  Baths;  Hoiese  of  the  Vettii; House  of  the  Faun; 
House  of  Anchor,  of  tragic  Poet  (Bulwer  describes  it 
in  Last  Days  of  Pompeii);  Fuller'' s  Shop;  Great  and 
Hittle  Fountains;  House  of  Pansa,  of  Labyrinth,  of 


CASERTA.  —  SORRENTO.  381 

Castor  and  Pollux,  of  Centaur,  of  Meleager,  Adonis^ 
Apollo;  Academy  of  Music ;  Bake-house;  Soap-shop; 
Barber  s  Shop ;  Custom  House  ;  Street  of  Tombs  ;  and 
Villa  of  Biomedes  (where  several  bodies  were  found), 
beyond  Herculaneum  Gate.  There  are  many  curiosities 
in  the  museums,  especially  casts  of  the  bodies  found  in 
the  ruins.  You  may  ride  hence  on  horseback  (\\  hrs.) 
to  cairn  of  stones  on  Vesuvius ;  whence  climb  (1  hr.  on 
foot)  to  summit  (guide  and  horse,  101.). 

Caserta  {Vittoria),  about  20  M.  from  Naples,  on 
rly.  to  Rome,  has  a  magnificent  Royal  Palace  (1752), 
834  ft.  long  and  wide,  and  134  liigh,  with  colonnaded 
courts,  famous  gardens  and  cascades,  beautiful  views, 
and  sumptuous  apartments.  See  chapel,  highly  en- 
riched  with  lapis  lazuli  and  gold  ;  and  theatre,  with  16 
antique  Corinthian  columns  of  African  marble. 

No  one  should  leave  Naples  without  having  visited 
Sorrento,  Amalfi,  and  Salerno.  Uly,  in  1  hr.  (3  1.  10  c, 
2  1.  15  c,  11.  25  c),  along  shore  of  bay^  to  Castella- 
raare  {Hotel  Weiss;  Quisisana),  a  famous  Neapolitan 
summer-resort  and  Italian  naval  station  (33,000  inhab.), 
near  overwhelmed  ruins  of  Stabise,  and  with  13th-cen- 
tury castle,  royal  chateau  of  Quisisana  (on  the  hill), 
and  Monte  S.  Angelo,  5,000  ft.  high,  with  superb  view 
(guide  and  donkey,  51.).  Here  also  are  famous  sul- 
phurous and  ferruginous  springs.  An  excellent  road 
(J\  M. ;  carriage,  5  1.)  between  the  mts.  and  Bay,  leads 
hence,  by  Vico  and  Mela,  and  a  delicious  paradise  o/ 
orange  and  olive  groves,  to  Sorrento  {G-ran  Bretagna; 
jy Anqleterre ;  Tasso,  where  Tasso  was  born,  1544: 
Sirena;  Vittoria;  Tramontano) ,  an  ancient  seaport 
on  Bay  of  Naples,  famous  for  exquisite  scenery,  and 
delightfully  cool  summ.er-climate  (it  faces  N.).  Quaint 
villages,  ancient  chs.,  natii:?!  curiosities,  villas  and 
^r)u vents,  glens   and   myrtle-groves,  ronkj  islets   and 


382  CAPRI.  —  ISCHIA. 

points,  make  this  region  very  charming.  Steamboats 
leave  Naples  (S.  Lucia)  at  9  a.m.  daily,  for  Sorrento 
(61.;  return-tickets,  101.),  Capri  (81.;  return,  131.); 
and  Ischia.  Boat  from  Sorrento  to  Capri,  5  1.,  in 
two  hours  (bad  trip  in  rough  weather). 

Capri  {Tiherio  and  Quisisana,  both  kept  by 
English  people  ;  Pagano;  Grotte  Bleue),th.Q^^l'&\&TidL 
of  Goats,"  is  4^  M.  long,  with  almost  unbroken 
lines  of  cliffs,  and  far- vie  wing  mts.  3,000  ft.  high. 
There  are  4,500  inhab.,  mostly  farmers  and  coral 
fishers.  Augustus  and  Tiberius  built  many  villas 
and  palaces  here.  In  1803  Capri  was  strongly 
fortified  by  the  English;  but  Murat  captured  it 
five  years  later.  On  Eo  see  ruins  of  Villa  of 
Tiberius,  and  the  cliff,  700  ft.  high,  called  Salto 
di  Tiherio,  whence  the  cruel  Emperor  forced  his 
victims  to  leap  into  the  sea.  Near  by  is  an  inn. 
See  Natural  Arch;  Grotto  of  Mithras;  lofty  village 
of  Anacapri,  with  Barbarossa's  castle ;  and  Monte 
Solaro,  with  superb  view.  The  most  celebrated  of 
the  caverns  is  the  Blue  Grotto,  106  by  80  ft.  in  area, 
and  40  ft.  high,  partly  filled  by  beautifully  azure 
sea-water,  and  lighted  and  entered  only  by  a  low  and 
narrow  aperture,  where  the  sea  beats  against  the  cliff 
(boat,  2  1.  for  3  persons;  1  1.  for  each  additional). 
The  White,  Red,  Green,  and  Stalactite  Grottos  are 
also  visited  by  boat. 

Ischia  is  a  fertile  island  15.  M.  around,  with 
35,000  inhab.,  devoted  to  vineyards  and  fisheries, 
with  delightful  summer  climate,  castle  of  Alfonso  I. 
of  Aragon,  lovely  village  of  Casamicciola  (damaged 
in  1883  by  earthquake),  and  grand  view  from 
top  of  quiescent  volcano  of  Epomeo.  Ischia  has 
been  ravaged  by  Romans,  Saracens,  Pisans,  Nea- 
politans, and  French;  and  was  the  home  of  Vit- 
toria  Colonna  and  Maria  of  Aragon.  Boat  from 
Naples  in  two  hrs.   (fares,   5  1.,  3^  1.).     Procida 


SALERNO.  —  PJESTUM.  —  AMALFI.  383 

is  a  neighboring  volcanic  island,  3  M.  long,  with 
14,000  inhab.,  originally  settled,  like  Capri  and 
Ischia,  by  Greeks. 

Salerno  {Hotel  d/Angleterre)  is  a  picturesque 
old  provincial  capital  (22,000  inhab.),  83^  M.  from 
Naples  (rly.  fares,  6  1.  15  c,  4|  1.,  2  1.  45c.),  fronting 
on  a  magnificent  bay,  with  fine  quay,  1^  M.  long, 
irregular  medijEval  streets,  ancient  Lombard  Castle, 
and  delightfully  quaint  old  Cathedral  (1084),  with 
many  antique  columns,  sarcophagi,  and  mosaics, 
and  tombs  of  St.  Matthew,  Pope  Gregory  the  Great, 
Margaret  of  Anjou,  etc.  The  University  was  very 
celebrated  in  Middle  Ages  (see  Longfellow's  Golden 
Legend). 

Paestum,  23  M.  from  Salerno,  by  railway  over 
dull  shore-plains,  founded  by  Greeks,  B.C.  600,  and 
destroyed  by  Saracens,  is  a  collection  of  the  finest 
Greek  ruins  in  existence  (out  of  Athens),  including 
Temple  of  Neptune,  189  by  84  ft.,  with  52  fluted 
Doric  columns;  Temple  of  Ceres,  105  by  45  ft., 
with  34  fluted  columns;  and  Basilica,  111  by  80  ft., 
with  60  columns;  well-preserved  travertine  town- 
walls  3  M.  around;  amphitheatre,  Roman  temple, 
Street  of  Greek  tombs.  Admission  to  temples,  1  1., 
Sun.  free. 

Amaifii  {Luna),  a  lovely  village  (7,000  inhab.), 
where  a  great  mt. -gorge  opens  on  Gulf  of  Salerno, 
was  once  a  flourishing  commercial  republic,  rivalling 
Genoa  and  Pisa,  but  yielded  to  the  armies  of  Naples 
in  1131.  Near  the  Marina  quay  is  the  11th-century 
,  Cathedral,  with  campanile  and  cloisters,  rich  mosaics 
and  Byzantine  bronze  doors,  and  tomb  of  St.  Andrew. 
I A  landslide  in  December,  1899,  destroyed  the  ancient 
iCapucin  monastery  and  two  hotels.  1^-  hour's 
climb  leads  to  Ravello  (once  30,000  inhab.,  now 
1,500),  with  magnificent  11th-century  cathedral  and 
Rufalo  Palace  (here  Pope  Adrian  IV.  and  Robert  the 


S84  SICILY.  —  MESSINA. 

Wise  lived),  botli  in  rich  Saracenic  architecture,  and 
crther  notable  chs.  Amalfi  may  be  reached  from  Sorrento, 
by  boat  and  path,  in  5  hrs.  It  is  better  to  go  there 
from  Salerno  (1^-2  hrs. ;  1-horse'  carriage,  5-6  1.)^ 
over  one  of  the  noblest  roads  in  the  world,  through  6 
villages,  amid,  vineyards  and  orange  and  lemon  groves, 
by  Charles  V.'s  anti-Saracenic  watch-towers. 

Majori  {Beau  Site  Hotel),  near  Amalfi,  is  a  charm- 
ing spot. 

Sicily. 

This  beautiful  island  may  be  conveniently  visited 
from  Naples,  whence  steamships  run,  several  times 
weekly,  to  Palermo  and  Messina  (15-22  lirs. ;  fares, 
40  1.  60  c,  24  1.  60  c,  to  either  port),  passing  Capri, 
Stromboli,  and  the  Lipari  Isles.  Travellers  can  avoid 
sea-trip  by  uncomfortable  26  hrs.  (436  M.)  rly,  ride 
from  Naples  through  Salerno;  Eboli;  Cosenza  (Alaric's 
grave),  with  18,000  inhab.;  Tiriolo ;  lofty  Monteleo?ie, 
with  10,000  inhab. ;  Mileto,  whence  Sicilian  mts.  are 
seen  ;  Palmi;  and  Scilla,  where  1,500  persons  were 
killed  by  "earthquake  of  1783  (and  near  Homer's 
Scylla);  to  Reggie,  once  a  ber.ntiful  city  of  35,000 
souls,  but  totally  destroyed,  with  the  loss  of  20,000 
of  its  inhabitants,  in  the  earthquake  of  December  28, 
1908. 

French  steamers  run  from  Marseilles  to  Palermo  in 
50  hrs.  Italian  boats  from  Grenoa  to  Palermo  in  33 
hrs.  Steamers  run  round  Sicily  weekly,  from  Paler- 
mo, touching  at  chief  ports. 

Messina,  formerly  the  chief  commercial  town  of 
Sicily,  with  150,000  inhab.,  had  a  magnificent  situa- 
tion on  an  amphitheatrical  slope,  over  a  secure  and 
well-fortified  harbor.  It  was  founded  by  the  Greeks, 
B.C.  733;   conquered  by  Samos,  Athens  (B.C.  427), 


SICILY.  -  CATANIA.  385 

Carthage  (396  and  270),  Mamertines,  Rome,  Sara- 
cens, Normans,  English  (Coeur  de  Lion),  Spaniards, 
French  and  Italians  ;  often  ravaged  by  fire,  plague, 
and  earthquake.  These  evil  days  had  left  it  but  few- 
antiquities.  The  Norman  Cathedral  (1098)  had  26 
antique  columns,  mosaics,  royal  tombs  and  sarcophagi; 
and  in  front  was  the  splendid  Montorsoli  Fou7itain 
(1647-51).  In  the  early  morning  of  Dec.  28,  1908, 
Messina  was  again  visited  by  an  earthquake,  the 
severest  in  its  long  history  of  disasters,  which  threw 
down  or  ruined  nearly  every  building  in  the  city, 
killing,  according  to  the  most  trustworthy  estimates, 
100,000  persons,  or  two-thirds  of  the  entire  popula- 
tion. The  towns  on  both  sides  of  the  Strait  of  Mes- 
sina, estimated  to  number  at  least  60,  were  at  the 
same  time  more  or  less  completely  destroyed  within  a 
space  of  twelve  seconds,  165,000  persons  being  killed. 
Ry.  hence  in  3 h.  by  Taormina^Q-iardini  sta.),  with 
grand  ruins  of  a  Greek  theatre  (whence  famous  view), 
acropolis  and  castle,  and  ducal  palace;  across  lava 
fields  of  jEtua ;  and  by  Aci-Reale,  scene  of  adventures 
of  Polyphemus,  and  Acis  and  Galatea;  to 

CatanieU  {Bretagne;  Albergo  Centrale;  Sangiorgi; 
DuGlohe),  handsomest  and  most  cultured  city  in  Sicily 
(147,000  inhab.,  by  the  seaside,  at  foot  of  -ZEtna,  and 
rich  in  palaces  and  villas,  embowered  in  groves  of 
orange.  It  was  founded  by  Greeks,  b.  c.  780  ;  and 
conquered  by  Athens,  Carthage,  Rome,  the  Goths, 
Byzantines,  Saracens,  Germans,  and  Spaniards,  See 
Cathedral  (1091),  with  tombs  of  6  Aragonese  sover- 
eigns, and  of  St,  Agatha ;  S.  Carcere,  with  relics ; 
cloisters  and  gardens,  museum,  library  of  suppressed 
Benedictine  Monastery  of  S.  Nicola,  than  which  there 
was  but  one  more  splendid  in  the  world  (all  its  monks 
were  of  noble  blood)  ;  underground  remains  of  Grceco- 
Uoman  Theatre  and  Odeum  (fee,  2  1.)  ;  Roman  BatJis 

25 


386  MOUNT  ^TNA.  —  SYRACUSE. 

and  Amphitheatre  ;  Roman  Tombs ;  University  (1444). 
500  students  ;  and  public  gardens  of  Villa  Bellini, 
with  Italian  statues. 

Mount  JBtnsL  (10,835  ft.  high)  may  be  ascended 
hence,  by  carriage  (2|  lirs.),  to  Nicolosi  (20-25  1. 
there  and  back);  whence  8  hrs.  by  lodge  of  Casa 
Inglese  to  summit  (guide,  10  1. ;  mule,  10  1.)  ;  return 
from  top  to  Catania^  8-9  hrs.  It  is  best  to  sleep  at 
Casa  Inglese  (at  base  of  cone  of  crater),  and  reach 
summit  before  sunrise.  There  have  been  over  80  re- 
corded eruptions,  one  of  which  (1693)  destroyed  80,000 
lives.  In  1886  the  last  occurred.  The  view  includes 
all  Sicily  and  surrounding  seas,  Calabria,  Lipari 
Isles,  and  Malta.  Rly.  from  Catania  (54  M. ;  9 1.  85  c, 
6  1.  90  c.,  41.  95c.)  to 

Syracuse  {Agradina;  Villa  Politi;  G?'and), once  the 
most  important  city  in  the  Greek  world,  now  a  quiet 
I  modern  port  (31,000  inhab.),  with  very  charming  envi- 
rons, a  noble  harbor,  narrow  and  crooked  streets,  and 
beautiful  women  who  wear  picturesque  costumes.  It 
was  founded  by  Corinthians,  B.C.  734;  defeated  the 
Carthaginians  and  Etruscans  ;  repulsed  the  besieging 
Athenian  fleet  and  army  (b.c.  414-13),  with  terrible 
losses ;  beat  off  frequent  attacks  from  Carthage ; 
entertained  jEschylus,  Pindar,  Simonides,  etc. ;  and  was 
defended  by  Archimedes  against  the  Romans  (b.c. 
914-12),  but  fell  and  was  nearly  annihilated.  Paul  and 
Marcian  preached  here.  It  has  since  been  ravaged  by 
Franks,  Byzantines,  Normans,  and  Spaniards  ;  and  has 
never  recovered  from  the  Moslem  destruction  in  878. 
The  inhabitants  still  preserve  the  Greek  type.  See  Cathe- 
dral, on  site  of  Temple  of  Minerva,  with  remarkable 
font  and  leaning  pillars ;  Museum  (open  9-1,  3-5)., 
with  fine  Greek  Venus,  and  other  antiquities  ;  Foun- 
tain of  Arethusa,  famed  in  Greek  m3rthology,  and  still 


PALERMO.  387 

surrounded  Oy  papyrus  plants  ;  ruins  of  Temple  of  Diana; 
Castle  ;  and  Montalto  Palace.  On  mainland  near  by, 
see  scanty  remains  of  ancient  Syracuse  :  Amphitheatre  ; 
Latomice,  or  quarries  once  worked  by  slaves ;  grotto 
C2iVLQdL  Ear  of  Diont/sius  ;  Greek  Theatre  (480-406  B.C.); 
Fountain  of  Cyane,  amid  growing  papyri;  fragments 
of  Temple  of  Zeus  Olympius  ;  etc. 

Weekly  steamers  lience  to  Malta  in  8  hrs. 

Palermo  {Hotel  de  France  ;  Trinacria  ;  Des  Palmes; 
Centrale),  the  capital  of  Sicily  (315,000  inhab.),  is  very 
beautifully  situated  between  Mt.  Pellegrino  and  Cape 
Zaffarana,  facing  the  sea,  and  has  mild  winters  and 
intensely  hot  summers.  It  was  settled  from  Phoenicia, 
fitrengtheued  from  Greece,  fortified  by  Carthage,  cap- 
tured by  E-ome,  and  governed  in  succession  by  the 
Byzantines,  Arabs,  Normans,  Germans,  French,  and 
English.  On  the  beautiful  Marina  and  La  Flora  prome- 
nades the  Sicilian  people  of  fashion  congregate.  The 
Cathedral  (1169-85)  is  a  great  and  imposing  ch., 
with  tombs  of  the  Sicilian  kings,  and  of  Emperor  Ered- 
erick  11. ;  immense  silver  sarcophagus  containing 
remains  of  St.  Rosalia ;  many  statues  and  carved  choir 
stalls;  and  crypt,  with  tombs  of  ancient  archbishops. 
La  Martorana  ch.  (12th  century)  has  curious  old  Greek 
mosaics,  Corinthian  columns,  and  a  tall  campanile.  See 
also  S.  Cataldo  (1161),  a  Sicilian-Norman  ch. ;  S, 
Giovanni  degli  Fremiti,  ia  form  of  letter  T,  with  5 
domes,  and  cloisters ;  gorgeously  ornamented  Jesuits' 
ch,  ;  Norman  S.  Francesco  d'Assisi ;  and  S.  Domenico 
(1640),  winch  can  hold  12,000  persons  The  Museum 
(open  10-3  ;  11.)  contains  many  Sicilian-Greek  statues 
and  sarcophagi,  Pompeian  antiquities,  and  a  picture- 
gallery,  mainly  composed  of  paintings  by  old  Sicilian 
masters.  The  Uoyal  Palace  is  Saracenic,  with  notable 
apartments  added  b.y  King  Po^er,  Pobert  Guiscard* 


388  PALERMO.  —  MONEEALE. 

Manfred,  and  Emperor  Frederick  II.  Here  also  is 
magnificent  Cappella  Palatma  (1132),  the  finest  castle- 
chapel  in  the  world,  a  basilica  with  Egyptian-granite 
columns,  Saracenic  arches,  mosaics  on  gold,  and  many 
Arabian  inscriptions.  Superb  view  from  Observatory, 
The  great  cloisters  of  the  Spedale  Grande  (13bO)  are 
covered  with  frescos.  Note  Gothic  windows  of  Archi- 
episcopal  Palace  ;  large  Municipal  Palace  j  University  ; 
National  Library  (open  9-2)  ;  spacious  and  arcaded 
Paterno  Palace  ;  Palace  of  the  Tribunals  (1307),  long 
the  home  of  the  Inquisition;  Ganzia  Monastery ;  rich 
Botanical  Garden;  and  Porta  Nuova,  triumphal  arch 
for  Charles  V.'s  solemn  entry  after  his  victory  at  Tunis. 

Monreale,  5  M.  out,  beyond  Palace  of  Due  d'Au- 
male,  elegant  old  Saracenic  palace  of  Cubola,  Capuchin 
Monastery  where  Palermitan  patricians  are  kept  em- 
balmed, and  rich  gardens  of  Villa  Tasca,  is  a  large  town 
which  has  risen  around  the  Cathedral,  founded  by 
William  II.  in  1170.  It  is  333  X  132  ft.  in  area,  with 
superb  entrance ;  bronze  doors  (1186) ;  Saracenic 
arches ;  cloisters  supported  on  216  columns ;  and  over 
60,000  square  ft.  of  magnificent  mosaics,  scriptural 
and  historical.  Monreale  is  1231  ft.  above  the  sea,  and 
commands  famous  views.  More  than  1,200  ft.  above  is 
venerable  Benedictine  Monastery  of  S.  Martino,  with 
library,  museum,  and  views.  The  celebrated  Monte 
Pellegrino  can  be  ascended  in  2  hrs.  See  shrine  and 
grotto  of  St.  Rosalia,  and  immense  sea-view.  La 
Favorita  is  a  splendid  royal  villa,  beyond  the  so-called 
English  Garden.  Nearly  3  M.  out  is  S.  Maria  di  Gesu, 
a  large  suppressed  monastery,  with  favorite  view  of 
Palermo.  Ancient  Saracenic  villas  and  chateaux  of 
modern  Sicilian  nobles  abound  in  the  environs. 

From  Palermo  it  is  96  M.  by  rly.  (15i  1.,  101.  70e., 
7  1.  65c.)  to 


GIRGENTI.  —  CIVITA  VECCHIA.  389 

^  G^rgenti  {Hotel  Belvedere;  Des  Temples),  chief 
town  on  S.  coast  of  Sicily  (21,000  inhab.).  On  mt. 
near  by  are  ruins  of  Acragas  (Agrigentum),  which 
Pindar  Ci!s,lled  "  the  most  beautiful  city  of  mortals." 
It  was  founded  by  Cretans;  had  200,000  inhab., 
and  vast  wealth ;  was  destroyed  by  Carthage,  and 
became  a  Roman  colony.  Here  are  fairly  preserved 
ruins  of  Temples  of  Juno  (with  34  columns), 
Hercules  (88  columns),  Concord  (34  columns^ 
Zeus  (37  huge  columns),  and  others;  and  walls, 
gates,    cloaca),    catacombs,    tombs,    etc.,    in    great 

,  numbers. 

Leghorn,  Pisa,  Lucca,  Genoa,  flonaco. 

Tourists  who  have  reached  Naples  by  rly.  had  best 
'  return  N.  by  sea.  The  Fraissinet  steamships  leave 
,  Naples  twice  weekly  for  Civita  Vecchia,  Leghorn, 
^  Genoa  and  Marseilles. 

*'  Civita  Vecchia  [Trajano ;  Italia)  is  a  fortified 
port  of  12,000  inhab.,  founded  by  Trajan,  and  des- 
troyed by  Saracens  (in  828).  Fortress  built  after 
plans  by  Michael  Angelo.  Rly.  across  Maremma  to 
Leghorn.  Rly.  to  Rome,  50^  M.,  in  2  hrs.  (fares, 
9  1.  20  c,  6  1.  40  c,  4  1.  60  c).  Time  of  voyage  from 
Naples,  12-14  hrs. 

A  voyage  of  12  hrs.,  by  Elba,  leads  hence  to  Leg- 
horn {Hotel  d'' Angleterre  Campari;  Grand;  Giap- 
pone;  Bastia;  Falcone  e  Patria),  one  of  the  chief 
Mediterranean  ports  (over  100,000  inhab.),  fortified, 
well-built  and  modern.  It  was  founded  by  the  Medici 
family,  as  a  refuge  for  the  oppressed.  See  Hnglish 
Cemetery,  with  Smollett's  tomb ;  fine  statues  of  three 
Tuscan  Grand-Dukes ;  venerated  sailors'  ch.  on  Monta. 
Nero;  piers  and  quays,  with  busy  and  chattering 
srowcts,  and  handsome  squares  and  Corso. 
Rly.  to  Pisa,  12  M.  (2  1.  5  c,  1 1.  40  c,  11.). 


390  PISA. 

Pisa  {Hotel  Yittoria;  Nettuno;  Grand  Hotel  Min- 
erve  et  Ville ;  Grand  Hotel;  Hotel  Washington) 
^  a  quiet  and  beautiful  town  (50,000  inhab.)  near  the 
mouth  of  the  Arno,  and  50  M.  from  riorence  (fares, 
81.  80c.,  61.20  c.).  It  was  conquered  by  Rome, 
B.C.  180 ;  adorned  v/itli  temples  by  Augustus  and  Ha- 
drian; became  a  rival  of  Venice  and  Genoa  in  Middle 
Ages ;  defeated  the  Saracens  in  many  naval  battles ; 
became  anti-Papal,  and  was  defeated  by  Genoa ;  and 
since  1406  has  been  subject  to  Florence.  It  is  very 
hot  in  summer,  but  the  mildness  of  its  winters  attracts 
many  Northern  visitors  to  the  quaint  and  sombre  old 
town.  It  is  surrounded  by  picturesque  walls  ;  and  has 
3  bridges,  and  a  fine  quay  along  the  Arno,  on  and  near 
which  you  may  see,  on  N.  side,  many  palaces  and  chs., 
including  13th-century  S.  Michel e  ;  University/  (1493), 
with  Renaissance  court  (statue  of  Galileo)  and  valuable 
library ;  Alia  Giornata,  Vitelli  and  Royal  Palaces  ;  S. 
Niccolo  (1000),  once  Benedictine,  with  statue  of  Per- 
dinand  I.  in  front ;  and  Guelphic  fortress,  near  Ponte 
»  Mare.  On  S.  shore,  12th-century  S.  Paolo,  with 
handsome  old  fapade ;  Benedictine  monastery  ;  Gam- 
bacorti  Palace,  now  custom-house ;  /S.  Maria  della 
Bjiina  (1230),  a  beautiful  marble  Gothic  chapel,  with 
fragment  of  Crown  of  Thorns  ;  round  8.  Sepolcro;  and 
the  Fortress.  Back  from  the  river,  on  N.,  see  S.  Fran- 
cesco (1300),  with  campanile;  Botanical ,  Gar  den  and 
Natural-History  Museum  ;  /S'. /S'u/o  (1089);  ^Yidi  Piazza 
dei  Cavalieri,  the  old  Republican  forum.  Here  stand 
Palazzo  de'  Cavalieri,  with  statues,  and  S.  Stefano 
(1565),  ch.  of  Knights  of  Sto  Stephen,  with  Turkish 
trophies  and  notable  painting?  The  adjacent  Acad- 
emy of  Fine  Arts  (open  9-2jl  was  founded  by^iNapo- 
leon  I.,  and  contains  many  good  Pisan  and  Florentine 
paintings.     Lord  Byron  lived  a  long  time  in  Palazzo 


PISA.  391 

Lanfranchi.  S.  Catenna  (1253)  has  interesting  pictures, 
and  stands  in  a  pleasant  square,  near  the  old  Komaii 
baths  and  the  Lucca  Gate. 

In  the  remote  N.  W.  corner  of  Pisa  is  a  wonderful 
group  of  mediaeval  buildings,  nearly  surrounded  by 
gardens  and  the  wall.  The  Cathedral,  311  X  106  ft. 
in  area,  and  109  ft.  high  in  the  nave,  was  founded  in 
1063,  to  commemorate  defeat  of  Moslems  at  Palermo, 
and  consecrated  by  Pope  Gelasius  II.  in  1118.  It  is 
in  magnificent  Tuscan-Gothic  architecture,  of  white  and 
colored  marbles,  with  remarkable  fagade  of  columns  and 
arches,  double  aisles,  and  dome  lined  with  Cimabue's 
mosaics.  Inside  are  65  antique  columns  (trophies  of » 
Pisan  conquests),  a  splendidly  gUded  ceiling,  bronze 
doors  designed  by  John  of  Bologna,  13  altars  designed 
by  Michael  Angelo,  carved  pulpit  by  Niccolo  Pisano, 
altars  enriched  with  silver  and  lapis  lazuli,  many  rare 
pictures,  and  swinging  bronze  lamp  from  which  Galileo 
got  the  idea  of  the  pendulum. 

In  front  is  the  finest  Baptistery  in  the  world.  It 
is  round  (100  ft.  in  diameter,  and  190  ft.  high) ;  in 
Roman-Tuscan  (1153-1278)  and  Gothic  styles;  of 
marble ;  and  surrounded  with  ancient  columns.  Inside, 
see  six-sided  pulpit  on  7  columns,  with  6  reliefs  by 
Niccolo  Pisano,  and  handsome  font. 

The  Leaning  Tower  (1174-1350),  or  Campanile^ 
behind  Cathedral,  is  179  ft.  high,  in  8  stories,  sur- 
rounded by  colonnades,  and  containing  7  bells.  It  is 
14  ft.  out  of  the  perpendicular.  Grand  view  from  top, 
of  the  Apennines,  the  coast,  Elba,  and  Corsica. 

The  Campo  Santo  (  open  daily;  25c.)  is  an  enclos- 
ure filled  with  scores  of  shiploads  of  sacred  earth  from 
Mt.  Calvary,  and  consecrated  to  the  burial  of  great 
men.  The  cloistered  hall  which  surrounds  it  was  built 
1278-83,  by  John  of  Pisa,  and  is  424  ft.  long  and  145 


393  LUCCA.  -  CARRARA. 


ft.  broad,  with  62  beautiful  windows  opening  on 
the  verdant  court  within.  The  walls  are  decorated 
with  wonderful  and  curious  14th-eentury  frescos 
of  early  Bible  history  and  the  Triumph  of  Death, 
some  of  which  are  attributed  to  Griotto  and  Orcagna. 
There  are  many  splendid  monuments  in  these  cor- 
ridors, to  Emperor  Henry  VII.,  Gregory  XIII., 
Catalani,  etc. ;  and  sculptures  by  Mino  da  Fiesole, 
John  of  Pisa,  Luca  della  Robbia,  Dupre,  and  Thor- 
waldsen. 

Excursions  from  Pisa. — To  summer  resort  of 
Baths  of  Oombo,  near  which  Shelley  was  drowned. 
To  La  Certosa,  a  Carthusian  monastery,  6  M.  out, 
on  the  Pisan  Mts.  To  Basilica  of  S.  Pietro  in  Grado 
(A.D.  1000),  3  M.  out,  where  St.  Peter  landed  in 
Italy.     Ely.  in  13  M.  to 

Lucca  {Universo ;  Corona;  Croce  di  Malta),  a 
beautiful  old  walled  city  (74,000  inbab.),  on  a  rich 
plain,  and  embowered  in  groves.  A  splendid  Roman 
municipium,  it  afterwards  became  Gothic,  Lombard, 
Frankish,  ducal,  republican,  Pisan  and  Tuscan;  and 
was  home  of  Dante,  and  principality  of  Napoleon's 
sister.  See  sumptuous  Romanesque  Cathedral 
(1060-70),  very  rich  in  art;  7th-century  Basilica  of 
S.  Frediano,  built  by  Lombard  kings,  with  rare  old 
pictures;  chs.  of  S.  Giovanni,  S.  Romano,  S. 
Francesco,  and  S.  Micliele,  and  old  palaces;  and 
walk  around  fine  old  ramparts.  The  Baths  of 
Lucca  {Hotel  de  V Europe;  des  Thermes;  NeivYorh; 
Pavilion;  Queen  Victoria),  13  M.  N.,  among  the 
Apennines,  are  a  collection  of  19  sulphuretted 
ferruginous  springs.  This  has  been  a  famous  health 
resort  for  centuries. 

Pisa  to  Genoa,  by  rly.,  102i  M.  (fares,  18  1.  15  c, 
131.  60  c,  10  I.).  Sea-passage,  Leghorn  to  Genoa, 
9  hrs.  The  rly.  lies  between  Apennines  and  sea, 
passing  Carrara,  a  beautiful  town  of  23,000  inhab. 


■li 


SPEZTA.  -  GENOA.  393 

(mostly  sculptors  and  marble-workers),  embowered  m 
groves  of  chestnut,  olive,  orange,  and  lemon  trees,  and 
3  hrs.  from  great  marble-quarries,  where  6,000  men  are 
employed.  Jja.  Spezia.  (Gran  Bretagna;  Grace  di  Mal- 
ta; Italia)  is  the  chief  Italian  naval  port,  strongly 
fortified  and  well  equipped  (66,000  inliab.),  and  was 
commended  by  Strabo  as  one  of  tlie  vastest  and  best 
ports  in  the  world.  Many  visitors  come  in  summer  for 
the  sea-baths ;  and  in  winter,  for  the  mild  climate. 
Pleasant  trip  to  Forio  Venere  (1|  hr.).  The  rly.  goes 
ou,  by  Sestri  Leoante  and  Lavagna,  along  sliore  of 
Mediterranean,  with  charming  views,  and  through 
many  tunnels. 

Genoa. (Bristol;  Modern;  Eden  Palace;  Continen- 
tal; Isotta;  De  Genes;  De  la  Yille:  De  Londres; 
Metropole;  De  France;  Smith;  Central),  called  by  its 
citizens  La  Super ba,  has  811,000  inhab.,  and  is  Italy's 
chief  commercial  town.  It  was  founded  by  Ligurians  j 
became  Roman ;  enriched  itself  in  Crusades ;  conquered 
great  Levantine  domains ;  fought  many  wars"  with 
Venice,  Pisa,  and  the  Moslems ;  was  torn  for  centuries 
by  Guelph-Ghibelline  civil  wars ;  maintained  itself  as 
a  republic  from  10th  century  to  19th ;  was  annexed  to 
Prance  in  1800;  and  in  1815  became  Sardinian.  It 
has  more  imposing  marble  palaces  than  any  other  city  •, 
but  the  streets  are  narrow,  steep,  and  crooked.  It 
presents  a  vast  hemicycle  of  buildings,  ranged  along 
the  hills  like  seats  in  an  amphitheatre,  with  bold 
wooded  heights  above.  Ramparts,  7  M.  long,  defend 
the  city;  and  an  outer  line,  20  M.  long,  with  towers 
and  intrenchments,  traverses  the  hills  beyond  The 
Harbor  is  sheltered  by  2  long  piers  with  light-houses ; 
and  separated  from  the  town  by  a  high  arcaded  wall, 
by  which  fishermen  and  sailors  take  their  ease.  At  end 
near  the  chief  hotels,  there  is  a  marble  terrace  1,500  ft. 


394  GENOA. 

long  and  45  ft.  wide,  affording  pleasant  view  of  harbor. 
Near  by  is  handsome  16th-centurj  Exchange,  with 
statue  of  Cavour.  Tlie  Custom  House  contains  many 
statues  of  Genoese  worthies  in  its  main  hall.  Splendid 
view  of  city,  sea,  and  Riviera  from  dome  of  S.  Maria 
di  Carignano,  on  high  hill  to  S.  E. 

The  Cathedral  (1100)  is  of  alternate  bands  of 
black  and  white  marbles,  with  16  Corinthian  columns, 
sumptuous  chapels,  rare  paintings,  many  statues,  and 
the  Holy  Grail.  Near  by,  on  Piazza  Nuova,  see  white- 
marble  town-hall,  with  statues  (once  Ducal  Palace)  ; 
and  16tli-century  Jesuits'  ch.  of  S.  Ambrogio,  with  pic- 
tures by  Guido  and  Rubens.  Near  by  are  S.  Matteo 
(1378),  with  many  sculptures  and  inscriptions  of  Doria 
family ;  Academy  of  Fine  Arts,  with  pictures  and  statu- 
ary ;  12th-century  Gothic  ch.  of  S.  Stefano,  with  famous 
picture  by  Giulio  Romano  ;  and  Pallavicini  and  Spinola 
Palaces.  The  modern  Yia  Balhi  and  Via  Nuova  are 
streets  of  superb  palaces,  many  of  which  have  beautiful 
courtyards  and  staircases.  Of  these,  notice  16th-cen- 
tury Mmiicipio,  with  mosaic  portraits  of  Columbus  and 
Marco  Polo  (and  letters  of  former)  in  council  hall; 
Brignole-Sale,  with  8  rooms  full  of  old  paintings  (fee, 
1 1.)  ;  Adorno  (1500),  with  valuable  pictures.  Most  of 
the  Genoese  palaces  were  built  by  (or  in  manner  of) 
Alessi,  a  pupil  of  Michael  Angelo.  The  cruciform 
Capuchin  ch.  olSS.  Annmiziata  (1587),  with  fluted  red- 
marble  columns  and  frescoed  dome,  is  very  rich.  Hence 
the  Via  Balbi,  a  broad  modern  street  of  palaces,  leads 
to  rly.  stat.,  passing  handsome  old  Palazzo  Durazzo ; 
University  (1622),  with  museums,  Ubrary  (60,000  vols.), 
and  the  finest  courtyard  and  staircase  in  Genoa;  Pa- 
lazzo Balbi,  with  large  picture-gallery  (fee,  11.); 
Palazzo  Durazzo  and  Royal  Palace  (open  daily),  with 
richly  furnished  halls,  throne-room,  and  many  pictures. 


SAVONA. — SAN  REMO.  39.^ 

fn  square  by  rly.  stat.,  see  fine  monument  to  Columbus 
(18&2),  with  several  allegorical  statues  and  reliefs. 
Beyond  is  Palace  of  Do  da  Princes,  presented  to  Au- 
drea  Doria,  "The  Father  of  his  Country,"  in  1522, 
rith  splendidly  frescoed  halls,  gardens,  arcades,  and 
^'tatues. 

Excursions  from  Genoa.  —  Villa  Pallavicini  (get 
permission  at  Durazzo  Palace ;  open  2-3  p.m.  ;  fee, 
1-2 1.),  with  luxuriant  park  and  gardens,  magnificent 
views,  grottos,  kiosques,  fountains,  etc.  (at  Pegli  stat., 
7i  M. ;  I  hr.  by  rly . ;  fares,  1 1.  15  c.,  80  c).  Campo 
Santo,  1|  M.  out,  new  and  interesting. 

The  famousCornicheroad  leads  along  the i^Mera 
di  Ponente  from  Genoa  to  Nice  (128 1  M.),  through 
some  of  the  finest  coast  and  hill  scenery  in  the  world. 
Steamboats  from  Genoa  to  Nice,  in  8-9  hrs.,  nearly 
every  day. 

Rly.  from  Genoa  to  Nice  in  7-9  hrs.  (116  M. ;  fares, 
211.  5  c.,  141.  90  c.,  101.  65  c.),  by  slow  and  not  very 
comfortable  trains.  The  journey  should  be  by  day,  as 
the  route  follows  the  Mediterranean  coast  through  a 
succession  of  beautiful  and  historic  towns  and  villages. 
Take  seat  on  r.  as  far  as  Savona ;  beyond  which  the 
best  views  are  on  the  1.  The  line  traverses  many  tun- 
nels, through  rocky  promontories. 

Savona  {Pension  Suisse ;  Italia ;  Eoma)  is  an 
ancient  city  (40,000  inliab.),  whose  fine  harbor  Genoa 
caused  to  be  tilled  up,  after  conquering  the  town. 
SixLUS  IV.  and  Julius  H.  were  born  here.  See  Gathe 
dral  (1604) ;  8.  Bomenico,  with  triptych  by  Diirer  j 
colossal  statue  of  Virgin  on  tower  by  harbor.  Rly, 
hence  to  Turin. 

San  Remo  {Royal;  West-End ;  Midi;  Paradis ; 
Savoy;  d' Europe;  Bellevue:  de  la  Mediterranee;  Victo- 
ria; Central;  de  Londres;  de  Paris;  de  Nice),  town  of 


396  BORDIGHERA. 

20,000  inhab.,  on  hill-slopes  covered  with,  vineyards 
and  groves  of  orange,  lemon,  olive,  pommegranate 
and  palm  trees.  The  climate  is  very  mild,  and  at- 
tracts many  English,  American,  German  and  Russian 
families  in  winter.  The  town  is  a  densely  populated 
group  of  fortress-like  medigeval  houses,  with  pictur- 
esque labyrinths  of  deep  and  narrow  lanes.  See 
very  ancient  Cathedral;  lovely  view  from  Assump- 
tion ch.;  ruined  Borea  Palace  ;  and  hermitage  of 
S.  Romolo. 

Bordighera  {Hotel  W Angleterre;  Royal;  Angst; 
Windsor;  du  Cap  Ampeglio;  Park;  Victoria;  Hes- 
peria)  has  a  beautiful  site,  on  a  hill  of  palm- 
trees,  projecting  into  the  sea,  with  picturesque  streets 
and  houses.  It  was  once  the  capital  of  a  republic. 
Ruffini  laid  the  scene  of  his  Br.  Antonio  hereabouts. 
Climate  is  exceptionally  soft  in  winter,  with  bracing 
quality,  and  is  delightful  in  spring  and  fall.  Many 
Americans  come  here.  See  Villa  of  Grarnier,  archi- 
tect of  Paris  Opera-Hoase ;  and  palm-garden  of 
Moreno.  Vmtim{gUa.{Maison  Doree;  Suisse)  is  the 
frontier- town,  where  baggage  is  examined  and  travel- 
lers change  cars.  Be  sure  that  your  baggage  is  put 
back  on  train. 


MENTONE.  -  MONACO.  397 


SOUTHERN  FRANCE. 

rientone,  Nice,  Cannes,  MarseiUes. 

MENTONE  {Royal  and  Westminster;  Victoria; 
National;  de  Matte;  Winter  Palace;  Venise; 
Isles  Brittaniqnes;  Balmoral;  d'' Orient;  de  Russie; 
du  Louvre;  des  Anglais;  Riviera  Palace;  Gap 
Martine ;  Beau  Rivage).  The  old  town  keeps 
fts  feudal  aspect,  with  narrow  and  winding  streets, 
on  a  promontory  dividing  the  bay.  The  new  town  is 
on  a  long  street,  iDarallel  with  the  hill.  See  grand 
view  from  ruins  of  Castle  (1402)  ;  St.  Julian  Gate  ; 
Palajzzo ;  and  Public  Garden.  Climate  more  equable 
than  at  Nice  or  Cannes,  and  very  tonic  ;  and  availed 
of  by  very  many  people  with  lung  or  bronchial 
troubles.  Beautiful  excursions  in  vicinity.  Cor- 
niche  road  hence  to  Nice  (18f  M.  ;  3-4  In-s.)  through 
most  exquisite  coast  scenery. 

Near  Monte  Carlo  stat.  is  famous  Casino  {Riviem 
Palace;  Balmoral  Palace;  des  Anglais ;  Grand; 
Metropole),  with  magnificent  palace  for  con- 
certs, decorated  theatre,  very  elaborate  gardens,  and 
Gaming  Establishment.  Great  numbers  of  fashiona- 
bles here,  from  December  to  May. 

Monaco  (Beau  Sejour;  de  la  Condamine;  Nice), 
the  capital  of  a  Lilliputian  principality,  under 
French  protection,  stands  on  a  bold  rock  nearly  sur- 
rounded by  the  sea.  The  ancient  Palace  of  the  Princes 
(open  daily;  small  fee)  has  sumptuous  rDoms  and  good 
frescos.  Bathing  establishments  at  foot  of  rock,  and 
new  hotels.  Pleasant  promenades,  mild  winter  cli- 
mate, and  sea  bathing  in  summer.    Between  Monaco 


398  NICE.  -  CANNES. 

and  Nice  is  Villafranca,   winter    headquarters  of 
American  navy  in  European  waters. 

Nice  {Q-raiid  Hotel  des  lies  Britanniques  ;  Beau 
Sejour;  de  Nice  ;  des  Anglais ;  Grande  Bretagne  ; 
Riviera  Palace;  Imperial;  Terminus;  Alhambra; 
Regina ;  Pare  Hotel),  a  handsome  and  well  built 
city  (135,000  inhab.),  with  an  Italian  aspect,  is  the 
chiei  of  the  fashionable  winter-resorts  on  the  Mediter. 
ranean  coast,  and  lias  an  extremely  soft  and  agreeable 
climate,  and  lovely  environs.  England  and  Germany, 
Kussia  and  xlraerica,  send  many  invalids  here.  The 
brilliant  winters  are  succeeded  by  very  dull  summers. 
It  was  originally  a  Greek  colony ;  then  Provenpal, 
Savoyard,  Sardinian,  and  French.  Massena  was  bora 
in  house  No.  21  Quai  St.  Jean  Baptiste ;  Garibaldi, 
at  No.  4  Rue  Cassini.  Paganini  died  at  No.  14  Rue 
de  la  Pi'efecture  ;  Halevy,  at  No.  5  Rue  de  France. 
The  world-renowned  Promenade  des  Anglais  extends 
along  the  bay  for  1^  M.,  bordered  by  beautiful  villas 
and  public  establishments.  .See  Place  Massena,  with 
bronze  statue  of  Massena  ;  Jar  din  Puhlupie,  with  palm 
groves  and  good  band-music  ;  Place  des  Phociens,  and 
antique  Greek  fountain  ;  remains  of  Castle,  on  hill  of 
palm  and  orange  groves,  with  magnificent  view  over 
sea  and  mts.;  old  and  new  Hotels  de  Fille  ;  Palace  o/ 
Prefecture  ;  ancient  Lascaris  Palace  ;  Natural-History 
Museum  ;  Public  Library ;  and  Marble  Cross.  Many 
charming  excursions  to  Villafranca,  Montboron,  ChX" 
teau  Neuf  St.  Pons,  CiwAes,  etc.  (consult  hotel-porters, 
most  of  whom  speak  Englisli).  It  is  6  hrs.  hence, 
by  express  (26  fr.  70  c.,  20fr.  75  c.,  15fr.  20c>.  to 
Marseilles.  A  series  of  tramway  lines  are  now  in 
operation  on  the  coast  in  the  neighborhood  of  Nice 
and  Monte  Carlo. 

Cannes  {Hotel  Splendide,  in  the  town;    Gallia, 
Beau  Sejour,  \\\  E.  quarter;  des  Princes,  \du  Pare. 


I 


TOULON.-MARSEILLES.  399 

in  W.  quarter  ;  Continental,  on  the  hills  ;  Gonnet^ 
Gray  and  Albion,  in  S.  quarter  ;  Grande-Bre- 
tagiie,  at  Le  Cannet)  is  one  of  the  most  popular 
and  attractive  Mediterranean  winter  resorts,  sheltered 
from  the  winds,  and  frequented  by  people  whose  lungs, 
are  delicate.  The  English  and  Russians  monopolize  it, 
and  the  latter  have  many  handsome  villas  in  vicinity. 
Magnificent  sea  views,  iucluding  the  lies  de  LerinSy 
where,  on  lie  S.  Mai'guerite,  the  Man  with  the  Iron 
Mask  was  imprisoned  (1687-98),  and  Marshal  Bazaine 
escaped  (1874).  On  lie  S.  Honorat,  ruins  of  one  of 
the  most  famous  mediaeval  monasteries.  Near  Cannes 
IS  Antibes,  a  very  picturesque  old  coast  town,  sur- 
rounded by  walls  and  defended  by  a  f(»rt;  and  Golfe 
Jouan,  where  Napoleon  landed  from  Elba. 

The  Marseilles  ily.  goes  on  to  Frejus,  with  ruins  of 
Roman  theatre,  amxphitheatre,  Grilded  Grate,  and  aque- 
duct (25  M.  long).  From  La  Pauline  stat.  branch 
rly.  to  Hyeres,  a  favorite  health  resort  in  winter, 
with  picturesque  rocky  islets  off-shore  and  lofty  mts. 
behind.  Toulon  {Grand  Hotel;  Victoria;  De  la 
\Paix;  Du  Word)  is  the  chief  French  naval  station 
(77,000  inhab.)  on  the  Mediterranean,  on  a  deep 
double  harbor,  sheltered  by  Cape  Sepet  and  defended 
by  11  forts.  It  beat  off  an  Austrian  and  Italian  anny 
in  1707;  but  Bonaparte  wrested  it  from  an  English 
garrison  in  1793.  See  Arsenal-gate,  with  statues; 
Maritime  Museum ;  Puget's  statue  of  Renown ;  prison, 
founded  by  Colbert  in  1682,  now  depot  of  prisoners 
sentenced  to  transportation  j  Hotel  de  VilJe,  with 
sculptures,  and  in  front  a  stntuo  of  Genius  of  Navi- 
gation; ancient  Cathedral,  with  sculptures  by 
Canova,  Mignard,  and  Puget,  and  noble  view  from 
Batterie  du  Salut.     It  is  41  \  M.  hence  to 

Marseilles  {Hotel  d^  Noailles;  des  Negociants;  du, 
Louvre  et  de  la  Paix;  Terrninua),  the  foremost  mari- 
time city  (503, 0(X)  inhnb.)  of  France,  which  has  a  long 
and  narrow  inn&y  iiarboi*,with  latge  modern  docks  out- 


400  MARSEILLES.  —  CHATEAU  D'IF. 


^1 


side.  It  was  founded  by  Greeks  or  Phoeni^'ans,  b.c.  600, 
under  the  name  of  Massilia ;  defeated  the  Carthagin- 
ians ;  established  many  colonies  along  the  coast ;  was 
conquered  by  Csesar,  Visigoths,  Pranks,  Saracens,  and 
Spaniards ;  and  in  1481  was  annexed  to  France.  Here 
u^ere  born  Thiers,  Gozlain,  Puget,  and  Mery.  The 
Marseillaise  call  tlieir  La  Cannebiere  the  finest  street 
in  the  world.  This  line  of  streets  runs  N.  W.  from  the 
ancient  harbor,  by  the  handsome  Bourse,  with  statues 
of  eminent  pre-Christian  Massilian  (Greek)  navigators; 
the  Place  Roijale  ;  across  the  shady  Cours  de  VAthenee 
(statue  of  intrepid  Bishop  Belsunce),  which  leads  to 
Triumphal  Arch,  with  sculptures  of  Napoleon's  victories, 
and  to  rly.  stat.  ;  across  Cours  St.  Louis,  whicli  runs 
under  various  names  2\  M.  to  the  N.  E.  ;  and  out  to 
Zoological  Garden,  near  which  is  the  handsome  Long- 
clianips  Museum  (open,  10-4),  where  an  Ionic  colon- 
nade joins  tlie  Natural-History  Museum  to  the  Picture- 
Gallery. 

See  immense  Docks  ;  Canal,  which  cost  Sl2,000,000 ; 
Ch.  of  Notre  Dame  de  la  Garde,  on  steep  and  far-view- 
ing hill;  splendid  new  Byzantine  Cathedral ;  old  Ca- 
thedral, on  ruins  of  Temple  of  Diana  :  palatial  Hotel 
de  la  Prefecture;  Palais  de  Justice;  Transport  B'ge. 

In  suburbs,  visit  noble  Corniche  road.  The 
Chateau  d'lf,  built  by  Francis  I.  on  an  island  in  the 
harbor,  was  made  famous  by  Dumas's  Ilonte  Crista. 

Steamsliips  of  Messageries  Maritimes,  Valery  Frferes, 
Fraissinet  &  Co.,  and  other  lines,  make  Marseilles  their 
chief  port,  and  run  to  Messina,  Athens,  Constantinople ; 
to  Syra,  Smyrna,  Constantinople,  Odessa,— returning  by 
Athens  &  Naples ;  to  Salonica ;  to  Naples  &  Alexandria ; 
to  Port  Said,  JaflEo,  Beyrout,  and  Syrian  coast ;  to  Trebi- 
zond ;  to  Madras  and  Calcutta ;  to  Suez,  Aden,  Singapore, 
Hong-Kong,  Shanghai,  Yokohama  (fortnightly! ;  to  Al- 


ARLES. — NIMES.  401 

giers ;    to    Barcelona ;    to    Nice,    Genoa,    Leghorn,    Civdt^ 
Vecchia,  and  Naples ;  and  occasionally  to  New  York. 

From  Marseilles  the  tourist  may  readily  enter  Spain  by  way 
of  Barcelona  (see  page  4j05j. 

Aries,  Nimes,  Avignon,  and  Lvons. 

Rly.  from  Marseilles  to  Paris  in  16-18  hrs.  (fares,  106  fr. 
35  c.,  79  f".  80  c.).  Train  leaving  at  8.30  a.m.  is  due  at 
Paris  at  11.19  p.m. 

The  route  leads  through  vineyards  and  olive-groves,. 
among  which  are  ancient  villages,  to  Aries  (^Grand 
Hotel  da  Forum  ;  Dn  Nord),  a  venerable  Roman  town 
.  (26,000  inhab.)  near  the  Gamargue,  or  delta  of  the 
Rhone.  The  Roman  Amphitheatre  (b.c.  43)  is  1,500  ft. 
around,  with  seats  for  25,000  spectators,  fine  arcades, 
and  dens  for  wild  beasts.  It  has  been  a  fortress  of  the 
Goths,  Saracens,  and  Eranks,  some  of  whose  towers  are 
still  standing.  The  remains  of  the  Roman  Theatre  are 
very  interesting.  See  also  famous  Roman  cemetery 
of  Ghamps  Mijsees  (mentioned  by  Dante)  ;  columns  in 
Place  da  Forum;  ruins  of  Thermse,  and  of  Gonstan- 
tine's  Palace;  Roman  Obelisk  of  Alpine  granite,  set 
up  here  in  1676  ;  Museum  (in  old  ch.  of  S.  Anna)  of 
Roman  statues  aud  antiquities  ;  7th-century  Gathedral^ 
with  fine  portal  and  interesting  cloisters ;  viaduct  with 
32  arches;  and  (2|  M.  N.  E.)  imposing  ruins  of  for- 
tress-abbey of  Montmajour,  on  a  high  rock.  The 
women  of  Aries  are  celebrated  for  beauty. 

Fares,  Marseilles  to  Aries,  10  fr.  60  c.,  7fr.  90  c., 
5fr.  80  c.  Erom  Aries,  via  Tarascon,  to  Nimes,  ifr. 
85  c.,  3fr.  60  c.,  2fr.  60  c. 

Nimes  {Hotel  du  Luxembourg  ;  Du  Midi)  the  birth- 
place of  Guizot  and  Nicot  (whence  nicotine),  has 
80,000  uiliab.     It  was  ouce  a  sacred  spot  in  a  Druidical 


402  TARASCON.  —  AVIGNON. 

forest ;  conquered  by  Home,  B.C.  121 ;  and  at  lime  of 
Keformation,  scene  of  fierce  religious  M^ars.  No  other 
Frencli  town  has  such  noble  Roman  remains.  The 
well-preserved  Amphitheatre  (b.c.  140)  has  35  rows  of 
seats  and  121  exits,  and  is  1,300  ft.  arouinl  and  74  ft. 
high.  It  was  made  a  fortress  by  Visigoths  and  Sara- 
cens ;  and  afterwards  contained  a  large  village.  The 
Maison  Carrie  is  a  Roman  temple,  88  X  42  ft.  in  area, 
with  30  exquisite  Corinthian  columns.  Founded  prob- 
ably by  the  Antonines,  it  became  afterwards  a  cli.,  and 
then  a  town-hall ;  and  is  now  a  Museum,  with  antique 
mosaics  and  sculptures,  and  several  score  of  modern 
paintings.  The  Capitol  at  Richmond,  Ya.,  was  mod- 
elled on  plan  of  Maison  Carree.  See  also  ancient  Tern- 
fie  of  Diana  (or  Ni/mphatmi) ,  and  Roman  Baths,  below 
the  huge  and  far-viewing  Tourmagne,  on  Mount  Cava- 
lier, adorned  with  promenades  ;  2  of  rhe  Roman  town- 
gates  ;  Fountain ;  and  Boulevards. 

Tarascon  {Hotel  des  Empereurs  ;  Du  Petit  Louvre)^ 
the  city  of  the  troubadours,  and  of  King  Rene  of 
Anjou  (13,500  inhab.),  has  notable  Castle,  Ch.  of  S. 
Marthe,  Chapel  of  St.  Gabriel,  and  Rue  des  Arcades. 

Avignon  {Hotel  de  VFrnrope)  is  a  handsome  city 
(38,000  inliab.)  on  the  Rhone,  with  an  imposing  and 
well-preserved  wall  (1349-68)  of  huge  masonry,  and 
many  gates.  On  the  Rocher  des  Dons,  300  ft.  high, 
stands  the  14th-century  Cathedral,  with  tombs  of  2 
popes  ;  La  Glaciere,  an  ancient  square  prison-tower  of 
the  Inquisition,  where  many  martyrs  have  died;  the 
Papal  Palace  (now  a  barrack),  a  huge  and  fortress-like 
pile,  100  ft.  high,  with  frowning  towers  and  a  chapel 
frescoed  by  Memmi  (about  1330)  ;  the  old  Papal  Mint, 
etc.  Splendid  view  of  Rhone  and  city  from  adjacent 
public  gardens.  The  golden  age  of  Avignon  was  dur- 
ing 1305-77,  when  7  popes  dwelt  there,  with  all  the 


VAUCLUSE.  —  VIENNE.  403 

Pontifical  court.  In  1351  Petrarch  was  a  guest  in  the 
Palace,  and  Rienzi  lay  bound  in  its  dungeons.  At  foot 
of  Rocher  des  Dons  is  the  Grande  Place,  with  hand- 
some Theatre  and  Hotel  cle  Ville.  See  also  Calvet 
Museum  (1  fr.),  with  Roman  antiquities,  library,  and 
picture-gallery ;  Bridge,  of  which  but  4  arches  remain ; 
Monimie?it  to  Petrarch's  Laura;  17th-century  Hotel 
Crillon;  and  Ch.  of  Grands  Carmes. 

Vaucluse  is  12  M.  distant  by  rly.  to  Vlle-sur- 
Sorgues,  whence  4  M.  by  road.  Here  is  the  fountain 
of  which  Petrarch  sang.  The  Pont  du  Gard,  W.  of 
Avignon,  is  one  of  the  grandest  Roman  works  in 
existence.  It  is  an  aqueduct  of  3  lines  of  arches, 
over  the  desolate  Gard  Valley,  built  probably  by 
Agrippa. 

Beyond  Avignon  the  Paris  rly.  passes  Orange 
{Hotel  de  la  Paste  et  des  Princes),  a  Roman  colony, 
and  afterwards  capital  of  principality  (imtil  1702), 
with  large  Roman  Theatre  (20,000  sittings)  and 
Triumphal  Arch.  Near  Pierrelatte  are  many  Roman 
remains.  Montelimart  has  famous  mineral  springs. 
Livron  is  famous  for  its  defence  by  the  Huguenots 
against  Henri  III.  in  1574.  Valence  {Hotel  de  la 
Croix)  is  a  picturesque  town  (20,000  inhab.),  with 
Roman  ruins ;  Cathedral  with  tomb  of  Pius  VI. ; 
Museum;  and  Maison  des  Tetes.  Vienne  {Hotel  du 
Nord;  De  la  Poste),  "a  little  French  Manchester" 
(25,000  inhab.),  on  the  Rhone,  has  Roman  Temple  of 
Augustus,  with  16  Corinthian  columns;  6th-century 
basilica  of  S.  Pierre:  venerable  Cathedral,  etc. 

Lyons  {Grand  Hotel;  de  Rome;  des  Beaux- Arts; 
Bellecour;  Terminus;  Etrangers),  the  second  city 
and  chief  manufacturing  place  of  Trance  (400,000 
inh.),  is  at  the  confluence  of  the  Rhone  and  Saone,  and 
is  of  vast  importance,  commercially  and  strategically. 
The  Perrache  is  the  quarter  between  and  reclaimed 


404  LYONS. 

from  tlie  3  rivers ;  and  containing  handsome  rlj.  stat.. 
Arsenal,  Barracks,  Custom  House,  and  Ch.  of  St. 
Blandine.  See  13tli-century  Cathedral,  with  fapade  by 
Philibert  Delorme,  and  noble  tower;  Museum  (open 
9-3),  with  Roman  antiquities  and  statues,  library,  and 
large  picture-gallery  (see  Perugino's  Ascension)  ;  Grand 
Theatre;  noble  view  from  ]jilg:rimas;e-ch.  oi Notre  Dame 
ds  Fourviere,  on  heights  ;  Hotel  de  Ville  (1647),  neal" 
scene  of  massacres  of  1794  ;  Civic  Library,  180,000 
vols. ;  Palace  of  Commerce,  with  industrial  museum ; 
Hotel  Dieu ;  great  tobacco-factories ;  new  Bellecour 
Theatre ;  10th-century  cb.  of  Abbey  of  Ainay,  on  site 
of  Caligula's  school  of  rhetoric;  handsome  Tete  d'Or 
park ;  Ch.  of  S.  Jean,  of  12th  century ;  and  Place 
Bellecour.  There  are  16  bridges  over  the  rivers ;  and 
the  adjacent  heights  are  covered  with  great  forts. 

Rly.  from  Lyons  to  Geneva,  4|  hrs.  (fares,  20  ft'. 
65  c,  15^  fr.,  11  fr.  35  c.)  ;  and  to  Besanfon  (fares, 
29  fr.  20  c,  21  fr.  85  c,  16  fr.  5  c.) .  Besan9on  {Hotel 
de  Paris)  is  one  of  the  strongest  fortresses  in  France 
(48,000  inhab.),  with  noble  Cathedral,  Archiepiscopal 
Palace,  Granvelle  Palace  (1:  'i34),  Roman  Arch,  and 
Library  (120,000  vols.). 

Express  trains,  Lyons  to  Paris.  Q-10  hrs.,  by  Macon^ 
Chalons-sur-Saone,  Dijon,  etc. 

Montpellier,  Cette,  and  Perpign^n,  see  pages  405-6. 

Biarritz  and  Bayonne,  see  page  433. 

Pau,  Cauterets,  Bordeaux,  Arcachon,  Angoulemey  Poh> 
tiers,  ToulousCy  Vichy ^  etc.,  see  pages  436  et  seq. 


SPAIN.  405 


A   ROUND   TRIP  IN  SPAIN. 

THE  tourist  who  can  give  ten  days  for  a  visit  to 
the  most  important  points  in  Spain  will  never  have 
occasion  to  regret  it.  He  will  find  it  among  the  most 
interesting  and  instructive  of  his  journeys  in  Europe. 
Prom  Marseilles  we  recommend  you  to  go  directly  to 
Barcelona,  from  tliere  to  Valencia,  and  thence  via  La 
Encina  to  the  Alcazar  de  San  Juan.  From  this  point 
you  may  go  S.  to  Seville  and  Cordova,  from  Cordova  to 
Grenada,  from  Grenada  to  Malaga,  all  this  by  rail : 
then  from  Malaga  by  steamer  to  Gibraltar ;  from  Gib^ 
raltar  to  Cadiz,  from  Cadiz  to  Seville,  from  Seville  to 
the  Alcazar  de  San  Juan :  from  thence  to  Madrid,  taking 
on  the  way  the  ancient  city  of  Toledo ;  and  from  Madrid 
N.  to  Erance  by  Avila,  Valladolid,  Burgos,  and  Irun : 
thence  to  Bordeaux  and  Paris.  That  does  not  include 
several  points  of  interest,  such  as  for  instance  Saragossa, 
Alicante,  Salamanca,  etc. ;  but  it  gives  a  capital  idea 
of  the  chief  beauties  of  Spain.  Even  to  those  who  feel 
that  they  cannot  spend  the  time  to  go  S.  to  Seville, 
Grenada,  Malaga,  and  Gibraltar,  we  would  recommend 
to  try  the  route  to  Barcelona,  Valencia,  Toledo,  and 
N.,  being  satisfied  with  half  of  Spain  if  they  cannot 
see  the  whole.  As  for  the  journey  to  Portugal  and 
especially  to  Lisbon  we  sliall  simply  point  out  the  route, 
as  most  vacation  tourists  will  find  it  too  lengthy. 

Between  Marseilles  and  Barcelona  you  pass  through 
JVEontpellier  {Hotel  Neoet ;  Du  Midi ;  Delmas ; 
G-ranS,  Here  is  a  Cathedral  founded  in  1364  by  Ur- 
ban V. ;  a  school  of  medicine  with  fine  entrance  flanked 
with  a  colossal  bronze  statue  representing  Barthez  and 


406  GERONA.  —  BARCELONA. 

La  Peyronnic;  a  library  of  50,000  vols.,  a  good  mu- 
seum (open  Sun.,  Mon.,  and  fete  days,  ll-3j ;  a  public 
library,  60,000  vols. ;  and  many  beautiful  fountains, 
statues,  gardens,  and  proineimdes  :  —  Cette/one  of  tbe 
most  industrious  and  dirtiest  cities  of  Southern  France, 
noted  for  its  exports  of  wine,  for  its  museum  of  natural 
history,  and  its  botanical  garden :  —  Narhonrte,  and 
Perpignan,  an  old  French  town  with  a  Spanish  aspect. 
The  Spanish  frontier  is  reached  at  Cerhere,  in  the  midst 
of  a  wildly  beautiful  country ;  baggage  inspection  not 
severe.  The  only  point  of  special  importance  through 
which  you  pass  on  your  way  to  Barcelona  is 

Gerona  {Fonda  Italiana),  a  large  town  divided  into 
two  sections,  upper  and  lower,  by  the  river  Oila.    Noble 
view  here  of  the  Pyrenees  and  the  distant  mountains. 
The  porch  of  the  Cathedral  is  reached  by  a  monumental 
staircase  of  86  steps.     The  interior  forms  one  single 
nave,  nearly  200  ft.  long,  sustained  by  immense  pilkrs, 
formed  of  little  columjis  almost  detached  from  each 
other.     Many  interesting  tombs  here.     The  chief  altar 
is  one  of  the  richest  in  Spain.     The  Bishop's  Palace  is 
very  fine.     Churches  of  San  Pedro  de  los  Galligans 
iind  San  Feliu  are  worth  seeing.    The  Capucin  Con- 
vent contains  a  small  Arabic  monument  of  wonderful 
nitricate  workmanship.     From  Gerona  it  is  65  M.  to 
Barcelona  (Grand  Hotel;   Inglaterra;   Falcon  y 
Central;  del  Oriente;  Continental;  Peninsular),  one 
of  the  most  enterprising  as  well  as  one  of  the  most 
beautiful  cities  (500,000  inh.)  in  Southern  Europe.    Its 
appearance  quite  contradicts  any  impressions  that  one 
may  have  of  the  slovenliness  and  lack  of  energy  of  the 
modern   Spaniards,  impressions,  alas !    confirmed  later 
on  by  the  aspect  of  more  southward  towns,     Barcelona 
is  the  residence  of  a  Captaim  General  and  of  the  civil 
governor  of  the  province  of  Catalonia.     The  clima*:e  \s 


jj  J^imj^^ieVVest O I.oiigitud^  EcLst  2. 


SPAIN,  407 

temperate  both  in  summer  and  winter.    The  new  part  of 
,  the  city,  .notably  in   the   Gracia   quarter,  will  remind 
I  America,ns  of  the  more  beautif  ui  sections  of  Boston  and 
of  Washington.    The  Rambla  is  the  principal  promenade 
of  the  city,  and  at  noon  and  in  the  evening  is  thronged 
'  with  all  classes  of  the  population.  It  runs  from  the  Plaza 
,  de  la  Paz  iColumbiis  Monunwiit)  to  the  Plaza ds  Cataiuna, 
[  and  from,  here  stretches  out  the  beautiful  Gracia  avenue, 
I  which  unites  the  city  to  a  suburb  of  the  same  name.  The 
I  University  with  its  150,000  volumes  is  on  the  Plaza  de  la 
i  tJniversidad,  a  short  distance  N.W.  from  the  Cataiuna 
Plaza.    Among  other  squares  are  the  Heal,  with  interest- 
ing shops ;  tlie  Medina  CeJi,  with  statue  of  Marquet ;  del 
Rey,  with  the  Provincial  Museum  and   Palace  of  the 
Archives ;  de  la  Constitucion,  with  the  Gasa  Consistorial 
(  and  the  Casa  de  la  Diputacion ;    de  Palacio,  with  fine 
marble  fountain.  From  tlie  latter  a  short  avenue  leads  to 
the  Parque  de  la  Ciudadela^  in  which  are  the  Palace,  the 
Pantheon,  and  an  unimportant  Museode  Reproducciones. 
The  Lyceo,  said  to  be  the  largest  theatre  in  the  world,  is 
built  after  the  model  of  La  Scala,  at  MUan.    The  Lonja, 
or  Exchange,  is  of  monumental  aspect.    The  Casa  de  la 
Diputacion,  on  the  Palace  of  the  Constitution,  was  built 
in  the  16th  century ;  fine  portal.    On  the  side  fronting  on 
the  Calle  del  Obispo  is  the  exquisite  fagade  of  the  cliapel 
of  St.  George,  Gothic  in  style.  The  Hall  of  the  Diputacion 
has  many  fine  paintings ;  among  others  a  number  of  the 
best  works  of  Fortuny.    Opposite  is  the  Casa  Consistorial, 
a  Gothic   edifice    (1378).      The   patio,  or  courtyard,  is 
much    admired.     The    Custom    House,    Casa  Aduana, 
is    near  the   old    royal   palace.     The   Archives  of  the 
Crown  of  Aragon   in  the   Plaza   del  Rey  is   a  superb 
historical     collection    dating    back   for   ten  centuries. 


408  BARCELONA. 

The  Cathedral  dates  from  the  first  centuries  of  the 
Church.     It  is  dedicated  to  S.  Eulalia.     The  first 
biiilding"    was    erected  by  Raymond   BerAnguer  I. 
in    1058,   but    only    part    of    that    remains.      The 
interior  has  three  vast  naves,  ogival  in  style.    The 
chief  altar  is  in  a  sort  of  temple,  supported  by  sculp- 
tured columns  :  at  the  top  is  a  Christ  upon  the  Cross. 
Beneath  the  ch.  is  a  crypt,  with   a   chapel  in  which  are 
said   to   repose   the  remains   of   S.  Eulalia :   beautiful 
stained  glass  windows  here.     The  side  door  on  the  r, 
leads  into  the  cloister,  which  is  marvellously  decorated 
in  the  style  of  the  15th  century.     Notice  the  ironwork 
on  the  doors  of  the  chapels  :  also  the  tomb  of  the  dwarf 
buffoon  of  King  Alfonso  V.    of  Aragon.     There  are 
numerous  other  chs.  of  interest.    Among  the  most  strik- 
ing is  S.  Maria   del  Mar,  a  fine  Gothic  edifice.     The 
Provincial  Museum  contains  some  good  paintings   by 
Villodomat,  some  by  the  Caracci,  and  works  of  Kibera 
and  other  masters.  The  Museo  Arqueologico,  in  the  ch.  of 
Santa  Agneda,  is  interesting.     The  Museo  Estrucli 
contains  an  interesting  collection  of  weapons.    On  an 
isolated  hill  stands  the  Castle  of  Montjuich^  which 
can  contain  a  garrison  of  about  10,000.    Barcelonetta 
is  a  little  suburb  chiefly  inhabited  by  fishermen  and 
workmen  in  the  marine  establishments.     Gracia  is  a 
favorite  residence  of  the  wealthier  people  of  Barcelona. 
An  excursion  should  be  made  to  the  immense  rocky 
mass  of  31onserrat,  which  rises  in  the  midst  of  the 
Catalonian  plain,  to  the  height  of  about  3,500  ft.  above 
the  level  of  the  sea,  at  a  distance  of  31  M.  from  Barce- 
lona.    It  may  be  reached  from  the  stat.  of  Martorell, 
on  the  Tarragona  line,  or  much  more  easily  from  Mo- 
nistrol, on  the  Saragossa  rv.,from  which  a  carriage  rd. 
and  mt.  ry.  lead  to  the  Monastery  on  summit  of  the 
mt.     Of  the  old  monastery  founded  in  880  nothing  is 
left  but  a  few  walls  and  one  or  two  towers  in  Byzantine 


SPAIN.  409 

style,  dating  from  tlie  I5tli  century.  The  present  raon 
asteiy  is  composed  of  immense  buildings,  8  stories  high, 
without  special  character.  The  ch.  is  beautified  with  a 
portico,  rich  with  statues  and  columns.  The  renown 
of  the  Virgin  of  Monserrat  is  too  well  known  to  need 
mention  here.  From  the  top  of  the  mt.  there  is  a 
splendid  view  of  immense  extent  over  the  hills  of  Ar- 
agou,  the  Pyrenees,  the  Mediterranean  shore,  and  in 
very  clear  weather  as  far  as  the  Balearic  Islands.  There 
are  several  grottos  filled  with  stalactites  in  the  Mon- 
serrat mass. 

The  Balearic  Islands.  — There  is  regular  com- 
munication between  Barcelona  and  Palma,  the  capital 
of  the  old  Kingdom  of  Majorca,  and  the  chief  town  of 
the  province  which  to-day  bears  the  name  of  Bale- 
ares,  and  whicb  comprises  the  islands  of  Majorca, 
Minorca,  Ivica,  and  several  others.  Palma  is  a  pretty 
town  with  narrow  streets,  in  the  midst  of  a  delight- 
ful country.  There  are  a  few  fine  buildings  in  it. 
See  Lonja,  or  old  Exchange,  begun  in  1436,  finished 
22  years  later :  the  Citadel,  built  at  the  close  of  the  16th 
century  :  the  Palace  of  the  Captain  General :  the  Cathe- 
dral, founded  1230,  finished  1601.  Majorca  pretends 
to  be  the  cradle  of  the  Bonaparte  family,  because  an 
ancestor  of  that  house,  Hugo  Bonaparte,  a  native  of 
Majorca,  went  in  1411  to  Corsica  as  governor  in  the 
name  of  King  Martin,  when  that  island  bf^longed  to  the 
Crown  of  Aragon :  —  In  the  Island  of  Minorca,  Fort 
Mahon  is  the  principal  town,  much  frequented  by  navi- 
gators of  all  nations.  The  English  were  there  for  a 
long  time,  and  quitted  the  island  only  in  1782. 

Erom  Barcelona  those  who  have  time  may  find  it 
interesting  to  visit  Saragossa. 


410  SARAGOSSA. 

Saragossa  {Fonda  cle  Uuropa ;  Las  Cuatro 
Nacioiies) ;  existed  in  the  time  of  the  Romans. 
Augustus  Caesar  founded  a  military  colony  there^  to 
which  he  gave  the  name  of  Csesarea  Augusta,  whence 
the  contraction  Saragossa.  The  ry.  stats,  are  some  dis- 
tance outside  the  town,  which  has  a  population  of 
92,000,  and  is  situated  on  the  1.  bank  of  the  Ebro.  It 
is  renowned  for  its  obstinate  resistance  to  the  army  of 
Napoleon  during  the  memorable  siege  of  1808,  and  still 
shows  marks  of  bullets  on  its  walls.  The  Gate  ofNues- 
tra  Senora  del  Carmen  is  a  noble  memorial  of  the  siege. 
From  the  stone  bridge  which  unites  the  town  with  the 
suburb  of  Altabas  there  is  a  fine  view  of  the  city  and 
the  Ch.  of  Our  Lady  del  Pilar.  This  is  the  object  of 
fervent  devotion  on  the  part  of  Spanish  Catholics. 
According  to  tradition  a  chapel  was  built  here  about  the 
year  40  of  the  Christian  era  by  the  orders  of  the  Yir- 
gni  herself,  who  brought  to  it  the  pillar  and  the  statue 
so  much  venerated  to-day.  Even  when  the  mauso- 
leums were  injured  at  Saragossa,  this  chapel  and 
the  pillar  were  preserved.  The  first  stone  of  the 
present  ch.  was  laid  in  1681.  The  interior  is  rather 
naked  and  cold.  There  are,  however,  some  beautiful 
marble  columns  upholding  the  sculptured  vault.  In 
the  Sacristy  is  a  fine  Ecce  Homo  attributed  to  Titian. 
The  Ch.  of  San  Salvador,  or  the  Seo,  that  is,  the  Epis- 
copal seat,  is  considered,  however,  as  more  important 
than  the  first  mentioned  one.  It  is  sumptuously  orna- 
mented, and  the  mysterious  twilight  in  the  5  naves  has 
an  impressive  effect.  Beautiful  sculptures  here  repre- 
senting the  history  of  the  Saviour,  of  the  adoration  of 
the  Magi,  the  Ascension,  etc. ;  also  several  fine  tombs. 
The  Trascoro  is  the  work  of  the  celebrated  sculptor 
Tudeiilla,  and  the  chapels  are  very  rich.  The  subter- 
ranean   ch.    of    Santa    Engracia,    where    repose    the 


SPAIN.  411 

remains  of  inany  Christian  martyrs,  who  were  slain  by 
»he  soldiers  of  Diocletian,  is  interesting.  The  ch.  was 
nearly  destroyed  by  an  explosion  in  1808.  The  other 
chs,  are  too  numerous  to  mention.  The  Casa  Muni- 
cipal, the  Exchange,  with  its  vast  rectangular  hall, 
formed  by  24  beautiful  columns  in  four  rows ;  the 
Ch.  of  San  Pablo  ;  the  Aljaftria,  which  was  a  pal- 
ace of  pleasure  for  the  Arab  kings;  tlie  Bull  Ring;  a 
great  number  of  beautiful  private  residences ;  the 
V diversity,  wliich  has  a  library  of  25,000  vols.  ;  some 
convents  and  hospitals ;  and  the  suburb  of  Santa 
Engracia,  may  all  be  readily  seen  in  the  course  of  half 
a  day.  From  the  little  hills  in  the  neighborhood  there 
are  very  pretty  views.  On  t*"  3  way  from  Barcelona  to 
Saragossa  you  pass  through 

Lerida  {Fonda  Suiza;  VeEJspana).  Prom  here 
there  is  rail  to  Tarragona.  The  old  Cathedral  is  a 
magnificent  mass  of  Byzantine  Gothic  remains,  mixed 
with  various  Arabic  styles ;  picturesque  and  rich 
cloister.  The  new  Cathedral,  built  under  Charles  III., 
is  a  fine  Corinthian  edifice  with  3  naves,  surrounded 
with  a  great  number  of  chapels  and  many  fine  altars. 

The  excursion  to  Saragossa  is  rather  out  of  the 
limits  which  we  had  assigned  for  a  brief  journey 
through  Spain.  "We  recommend  the  tourist  to  go 
through  Tarragona  along  the  coast  to  Valencia.  You 
leave  Barcelona  very  early  in  the  morning  and  reach 
Valencia  about  8  or  9  in  the  evening.  Take  your 
provisions  with  you  from  the  hotel.  The  journey 
affords  a  fine  series  of  contrasted  views  of  Spanish 
scenery.  After  leaving  Tarragona  you  pass  through 
remarkably  wild  scenery  along  the  base  of  rocky  mts.. 


413  TARRAGONA.  —  VALENCIA. 

and  then  descend  into  the  delicious  landscape  in  tlie 
neighborhood  of  Valencia,  filled  with  groves  ot 
oranges  and  lemons,  and  with  a  great  variety  of  semi- 
tropical  shrubs. 

Tarragona  {Paris;  Europa;  del  Castro)  is  a  very- 
old  town  of  about  80,000  inhab.,  once  the  centre  of 
the  Roman  power  in  Spain.     Not  far  away  are  the 
sites  of  some  of  Hannibal's  battles.     The  Paseo  de 
Santa  Clara  is  built  over  the  remains  of  the  Roman 
walls.  Very  ancient  gates  here.    Some  of  the  modern 
residences  are  built  with  the  debris  of  temples  and  of 
Roman  palaces.     The  Place  of  the  Constitution  is  on 
the  site  of  an  old  Roman  circus.    The  Cathedral  is 
Gothic    in    style ;    interior  vast,    aspect    majestic, 
ornaments   sober    but    heavy,   pillars  shrouded    in 
old    Italian    tapestries,    many    marble    tombs    and 
statues  ;     beautiful    cloisters.       In    a    chapel    are 
the    remains    of    Don   Jaime    !„,    King    of    Ara- 
gon,  and  his  wife.      Old  Aqueduct  here.     The  next 
place  of  importance  is  Tortosa,  a  strongly  fortified  city 
on  the  1.  bank  of  the  Ebro  (25,000  inhab.).     Imposing 
fortifications.     Cathedral  of  little  importance.     Shortly 
before  reaching  Valencia   you   pass   Murviedro,  near 
which  are  the  ruins  of  the  celebrated  and  ancient  city 
of  Saguntum.     If  you  go  to  these  ruins,  visit  them  at 
midday.     The  population  is  not  aggressive,  but  there 
have  been  brigands  in  the  neighborhood. 

Valencia  {Hotel  de  Paris ;  Cuatro  Naciones : 
JEspana;  Oriente;  Roma)  is  the  chief  town  (170,000 
inhab.)  of  the  province  of  the  same  name,  the  residence 
of  a  captain  general  and  of  the  archbishop.  It  is 
beautifully  situated  in  the  midst  of  a  great  number  of 
groves  and  gardens.  About  2|  M.  distant  is  its  port, 
called  El  G-rao,  which  is  accessible  for  large  steam- 
ships. Valencia  may  be  seen  in  short  time.  The  first 
impression  of  it  is  not  imposing,  but  the  beauties  of  its 


SPAix.  413 

natural  situation  and  its  arcliitecture  grow  upon  one. 
The  principal  squares  are  those  of  the  Constitution, 
where  is  the  city  hall ;  that  of  S.  Francisco;  that  of  S. 
Domingo,  a  market-place,  which  is  well  worth  spending 
an  hour  or  two  in  when  the  peasantry  from  the  neigh- 
boring mts.  are  there ;  the  celebrated  Exchange  aud 
the  Silk  Hall.  The  Audiencia  is  a  fine  building  of  the 
16th  century.  The  prmcipal  halls  are  ornamented  with 
good  portraits.  The  Archiepiscopal  Palace  is  con- 
nected with  the  Cathedral  by  a  bridge.  The  Cathedral 
dates  from  1262.  The  largest  tower  is  called  M  Migue- 
lete,  from  the  name  of  the  big  bell  which  was  baptized 
in  the  name  of  S.  Michael.  Prom  the  platform  o?  the 
tower,  splendid  view  of  the  sea  aud  the  coast.  The 
interior  is  formed  of  3  vaulted  naves  supported  by 
square  pillars  with  Corinthian  capitals.  High  mass  in 
this  ch.  is  a  splendid  spectacle.  Visit  the  Sala  Capitu- 
lar, immense  quantity  of  relics,  ornaments,  archives, 
books,  and  MSS.  The  Ch.  of  S.  Catalina  has  an  old 
mosaic.  Its  tower  is  beautiful.  In  the  Ch.  of  S.  Juan 
del  Hospital  is  the  tomb  of  one  of  the  empresses  of 
Constantinople.  The  old  home  of  the  Jesuits  is  occu- 
pied by  the  civil  government.  Very  fine  hospitals 
here.  The  University  buildings  are  not  remarkable. 
In  the  CJiurcJh  of  Corpus  Christi  is  a  beautiful  Cena 
by  Ribalta.  An  invisible  mechanism  winds  up  this 
j  canvas  and  opens  4  great  curtains  showing  a  superb 
crucifix,  which  is  much  venerated  by  the  Valencians. 
The  Provincial  Museum  is  in  the  old  convent  del 
Carmen  (9-4);  it  contains  numerous  old  pictures, 
though  few  of  great  merit.  The  Theab^e  is  large, 
but  without  character.  The  Bull  Ring  is  immense. 
The  principal  promenades  are  the  Alameda^  the 
Botanical  Garden  and  the  Glorieta.  Pretty  walks 
by  the  banks  of  the  river.    In  the  tobacco-factory. 


414       ALICANTE.  —  ALBACETE. 

3500  women  are  occupied.  The  Valencian  women 
are  renowned  for  their  beauty.  From  Yalencia  yot 
may  go  to  Alicante  via  La  Encina. 

Alicante  {Fonda  de  Bossid)  is  a  fine  seaport  (40,000 
inhab.).  The  town  has  no  remarkable  architectural 
features.  The  streets  are  large  and  well  paved.  The 
Alameda  de  la  Reina  is  pretty.  The  Cit^  Hall,  flanked 
with  4  towers,  is  quite  imposing.  Neither  of  the  2 
chs.  is  worth  much  study.  The  Convent  of  S.  Clara, 
or  of  the  Holy  Face,  as  it  is  called,  possesses  a  much 
venerated  relic,  the  handkerchief  with  which  S.  Tero- 
nica  wiped  the  sweat  from  the  brows  of  the  Saviour. 
The  Citadel  of  S-  Barbara  is  supposed  to  be  impreg- 
nable. You  may  also  go  to  Alicante  by  Alcoy  and 
Jativa.  This  last  mentioned  town  is  beautifully  situ- 
ated on  a  mt. -chain,  overlooking  a  magnificently  culti- 
vated plain.  On  the  flanks  of  the  hills  are  the  walls  of 
an  old  fortress.  A  French  writer  says  that  the  rly. 
here  seems  to  be  the  alley  through  a  region  of  gardens. 
Returning  from  Alicante  to  La  Encina  you  may  take 
ticket  to  the  Alcazar  de  S.  Juan,  or  directly  to  Madrid. 
On  the  way  you  pass 

Aibacete  {Fonda  Francisquillo),  renowned  for  its 
manufacture  of  knives.  Specimens  of  the  merchandise 
are  always  offered  by  pedlers  to  passengers  on  the 
trains.  The  Alcazar  de  S.  Juan  is  where  the  lines  to 
Andalusia  and  to  Portugal  branch  off  from  the  main 
line  from  Madrid  to  Valencia.  It  is  an  old  town  which 
the  Order  of  the  Knights  of  St.  Juan  made  its  head- 
quarters. Decent  refreshment-room  here.  Attend 
carefully  to  your  baggage.  From  the  Alcazar  de  S. 
Juan  to  Cordova  the  journey  is  one  of  the  most  inter- 
esting in  Spain,  and  descends  into  Andalusia.  At  Ilaii* 
zanares  the  line  to  Ciudad  Real  and  Portugal  branches 
off.     You  pass  through  Yal  de  Penas,  whence  you  get 


SPAIN.  415 

a  good  view  \jf  the  Sierra  Morena.  Between  the  Alca- 
zar and  the  Val  de  Peuas  lies  much  of  the  country 
described  in  Bon  Quixote.  Many  interesting  points  on. 
the  line.  Notice  Almuradiel,  and  Vilches,  near  which 
is  the  great  plain  wliere  in  1212  a  Christian  army 
defeated  the  great  Mussulman  liordes  under  the  com- 
mand of  Mahomed  al  Nassr.  At  Mengibar  there  is  a  fine 
bridge  over  tlie  Guadalquivir.  At  Andujar  there  is 
little  of  importance  to  be  seen  except  tlie  large  ch,  in 
what  is  known  as  the  Plateresqne  style  of  architecture, 
Cordova.( Fonda Bspafiolaj  Suizaj  Fonda  de  Oriente) 
is -an  old  town  of  55,000  inhab.,  situated  in  a  delicious 
plain  on  the  r.  banli  ot  the  Guadalquivir,  in  full  view  of 
the  slopes  of  the  Sierra  Morena.  Cordova  has  a  sumptu- 
ous museum  of  antiquities :  a  great  collection  of  edifices 
of  aU  epochs  ;  and  is  divided  into  two  parts  by  one  long 
street,  the  Calle  de  la  Feria,  the  principal  artery  for  the 
commerce  of  the  city.  The  walls  which  still  surround 
it  are  flanked  with  towers,  octagonal,  cylindrical,  or 
square,  which  were  the  work  of  successive  generations  of 
Saracen  and  Christian  architects.  The  Plaza  de  la  Con- 
stitucion  is  gurrounded  by  fine  buildings.  The  old  stone 
bridge  over  the  stream  is  attributed  to  Octavius  Au- 
gustus. The  principal  objects  of  interest  are  the 
Old  Alcazar,  and  the  garden  of  the  Moorish  kings, 
adjacent  to  it.  Por  permission  to  enter  address  the 
porter.  The  New  Alcazar  is  to-day  a  prison.  The 
Episcopal  Palace  is  built  of  very  rich  materials,  but  not 
in  remarkably  good  taste  :  fine  gardens  and  good  li- 
brary. Curious  collection  of  portraits  of  all  the  bishops 
of  Cordova.  Near  this  palace  is  the  Triunfo,  a  hand- 
some marbL  monument,  surmounted  with  a  column 
which  bears  a  gilded  bronze  statue  of  St.  Raphael.  A 
great  number  of  the  houses  in  the  city  are  ornamented 
with  inscriptions  in  honor  of  emperors,  consuls,  raagis- 


416  CORDOVA. 

trates,  etc.     The  modern  Bull  Ring  is  near  the  rly. 
station. 

The  Mosque,  now  the  Cathedral,  is  certainly  one 
of  the  most  remarkable  edifices  in  the  world.  It 
was  founded  in  786  by  Abdurrahman  I.,  and  com- 
pleted finally  in  990.  The  exterior  is  rather  gloomy; 
the  courtyard  within,  remarkably  beautiful.  It  has 
colonnades  on  3  sides,  with  fountains  in  the  centre ; 
and  is  planted  with  orange  and  cypress  trees.  The 
interior  of  the  Cathedral  has  been  somewhat  aptly 
described  as  a  ^'marble  grove."  The  roof  is  sup- 
ported by  a  vast  number  of  slender  pillars,  beau- 
tifully wrought  with  Corinthian  capitals  and  shafts 
of  various  colored  marbles,  of  jasper,  porphyry, 
-etc.  The  principal  entrance,  called  the  Puerta 
del  Perdon,  opens  into  the  beautiful  Court  of 
Oranges.  The  Milirah,  or  the  Holy  of  Holies, 
is  very  curious.  The  Mosque  was  converted  into 
a  Cathedral  on  the  25  th  of  June,  1236.  In  the 
Colegiata  de  San  Hipolito  are  two  urns  containing 
the  ashes  of  King  Alphonso  XI.  and  his  father, 
Ferdinand  IV. ;  also  the  tomb  of  the  celebrated 
chronicler,  Ambrosio  de  Morales.  The  chs.  of  S. 
Pedro  and  of  S.  Marina  are  also  worth  seeing.  The 
Convent  of  S.  Pablo  has  beautiful  cloisters  and  a 
magnificent  staircase.  Many  otiier  convents  are  rich 
in  works  of  art.  Just  outside  the  town  is  the 
sanctuary  of  Our  Lady  of  la  Fuen  Santa;  great  public 
festival  here  on  the  8th,  9th,  and  10th  of  Sept.  An 
excursion  to  the  Erraitas  in  the  Sierra  Morena  is  worth 
while.  From  Cordova  to  Granada  the  distance  is 
153J  M.  On  the  way  you  pass  Mantilla,  which  is  one 
of  the  most  beautiful  places  in  Andalusia.  Here  the 
'Great  Captain,  Gonzalvo  de  Cordova,  was  born.  At 
Bohadilla  a  branch  line  to  the  r.  goes  to  Malaga  (re- 
freshment room  here).  Anteguera  is  an  old  fortress, 
said  to  have  been  built  in  Roman  times.     Notice 


SPAIN.  417 

the  colossal  bronze  angel  on  the  cupola  of  the  ch.  of 
San  Sebastian ;  also  the  Arch  of  Hercules,  a  Roman 
ruin. 

Granada  {Washington  Irving,  and  Roma,  near 
Alhambra  ;  Alameda,  and  Victoria,  in  the  town), 
a  city  of  72,000  inhabitants,  is  world  famous, 
and  we  shall  only  briefly  indicate  the  best  way 
to  visit  the  Alhambra  and  the  other  curiosities  of  the 
town  ill  a  short  time.  Granada  is  grouped  on  the  slopes, 
of  3  hills.  The  Torres  Bermejas,  or  Scarlet  Towers,  so 
called  because  of  their  color,  are  on  the  first  and  the  last 
of  these  hills.  The  Alhambra,  which  is  a  city  in  itself, 
covers  the  second  and  the  highest.  The  Albaycin  is  on 
the  third,  separated  from  the  others  by  a  deep  ravine 
filled  with  rank  vegetation.  Through  this  ravine  runs 
the  torrent  of  the  Darro.  Granada  itself  is  divided  into 
4  large  sections.  The  modern  city  occupies  the  part  of 
the  valley  between  the  hills  of  the  Albaycin  and  the 
Alhambra.  Notice  the  Plaza  del  Trlunfo,  at  the  end 
of  which  is  the  Bull  Ring.  On  this  Plaza  is  a  white 
marble  column,  with  statue  of  the  Virgin.  Here  also 
are  the  Royal  Hospital  and  the  Concent  of  the  Merced. 
On  the  Plaza  Nueva,  reached  by  the  Zacatin,  is  the  fine 
edifice  of  the  Audiencia.  See  the  Ch.  of  Santa  Ana, 
Here  is  a  JJniversity,  with  rich  library  and  a  rather 
inferior  collection  of  pictures.  The  Cathedral,  to  be 
seen  from  8  a.m.  to  noon,  and  3  to  5  p.m.,  has  a  fine 
front  ornamented  with  statues  and  bas-rehefs.  Interior 
has  5  naves,  supported  by  20  enormous  pillars,  formed 
of  columns  grouped  together.  The  Door  of  the  Pardon 
is  very  fine.  The  Camilla  del  Pilar  is  filled  with  beau- 
tiful marbles.  See  the  group  of  "  Charity''  in  the  Sala 
Capitular,  the  work  of  Torrigiani,  the  Florentine  artist, 
who  was  the  rival  of  Michael  Angelo.  The  Capilla 
Mayor  is  one  of  the  most  richly  decorated  in  Spain. 


41b     GEANADA.  —  THE  ALHAMBRA- 

The  Royal  Chapel  was  built  to  receive  the  remains  of 
^Ferdinand  and  Isabella,  and  here  are  thfiir  tombs.  The 
two  royal  statues  lie  on  the  sarcophagus  :  two  lions 
repose  at  their  feet.  Here  are  the  crown  and  sceptre 
of  Isabella,  and  the  sword  of  Ferdinand.  In  a  second 
mausoleum  near  by  are  the  remains  of  Queen  Joanna, 
who  was  insane,  and  of  PhiHp  her  husband.  The  tower 
of  the  Cathedral  is  unfinished. 

The  Alhambra  is  open  daily  from  9  to  13  a.m.  and 
2  to  4  P  M.  Leaviug  the  Plaza  ISfueva  you  scale  the 
•Cuesta  de  los  Gomeres.  At  the  top  of  this  street  you 
find  the  Puerta  de  las  Granadas,  a  kind  of  triumphal 
arch  built  by  Charles  V.,  where  formerly  stood  an  an- 
cient Arabic  gate.  Beyond  this  he  the  groves  and  the 
gardens  which  surround  the  Alhambra.  We  will  simply 
•enumerate  the  objects  to  be  seen.  The  Filar  de  Car- 
los v.,  ornamented  with  statues ;  the  Puerta  de  Juicio^ 
or  Door  of  Judgment ;  the  Plaza  de  los  Algibes,  or 
Place  of  the  Cisterns  ;  the  Puerta  del  Vino  ;  the  Palace 
of  Charles  V.,  a  fine  Renaissance  structure,  but  un- 
finished. The  centre  is  occupied  by  a  circular  patio  or 
court,  surrounded  by  a  vaulted  gallery  supported  by  32 
Doric  columns  in  marble.  The  Alhambra,  a  marvellous 
Arabic  palace,  occupied  a  rectangle  of  400  ft.  long  by 
250  wide.  It  comprised  5  interior  courts.  The  prin- 
cipal fagade,  which  was  to  the  N.,  was  demolished  to 
make  room  for  the  Palace  of  Charles  V.  Its  main 
entrance  opened  on  the  Patio  de  los  Arrayanes,  and  you 
can  only  enter  it  to-day  through  a  small  corridor  behind 
the  N.  fagade  of  the  Imperial  palace  The  Hall  of 
the  Ambassadors,  the  Tocador,  and  the  Mirador,  or 
toilet  rooms  of  the  Queen,  the  Patio  de  la  Mezquita, 
the  ilall  of  the  Paths,  the  Patio  de  las  Rejas,  the 
Court  of  Lions,  the  most  precious  soecimen  oi 
Arabesque  architecture  in  Spain,   with    VZd>  white 


SPAIN.  419 

marble  columns  m  the  galleries  surrounding  it,  with 
a  floor  of  white  marble,  a  noble  fountain,  and  13 
great  sculptured  lions.     The  Halls  of  the  Tribunal, 
of  the  Dos  Hermanas  (the  Two  Sisters),  and  the  Hall 
of  the  Ahencerrages,  should  be  carefully  studied.    In 
the  hall  of  the  Two  Sisters  is  the  famous  Alham- 
bra   Vase,  the  finest  known  example  of  Hispano- 
Moresque  faience.   The  Royal  Chapel,wh\ch.  is  rarely 
open,  contains  a  great  variety  of  artistic  treasures.  Prom 
the  platform  of  the  Tower  of  the  Vela  there  is  an 
admirable  \dew.     Yisit  also  the  Adarves,  a  line  of  old 
bastions  transformed  into  gardens,  also  the  ch.  of  Santa 
Maria,  the  Towers  of  the  Cautivas,  of  tlie  Carceles,  of 
Los  Slete  Siielos,  del  Agua,  de  las  Infantas  and  many 
otiiers,  should  be  carefally  inspected.      To  visit  the 
Generalife  jou  leave  by  the  Los  Picos  Gate,  and  go 
down  the  hill  by  a  route  which  crosses  the  ravine  of  Los 
Molinos,  and  which  then  climbs  the  foot  of  the  hills  of 
a  neighboring  mt.     The    Generalife  was  the  pleasure 
house  of  the  Mhimbra.     But  little  remains  of  it  except 
a  few  arcades  and  some  beautiful  arabesques.     In  one 
of  the  few  halls  which  are  still  covered  with  a  roof,  there 
is  a  series  of  smoky  portraits  of  the  Kings  of  Spain, 
which  have  only  a  chronological  merit.      "  Prom  the 
Tower  of  the  Generalife,"  says  a  French  writer,  "  you 
fancy  that  you  can  touch  the  Sierra  Nevada,  so  pure 
and  limpid  is  the  air  through  which  you  see  that  moun- 
tain chain."     There  are  a  great  many  beautiful  excur- 
sions  in  the   neighborhood  of  the  Alhambra,  but  to 
enjoy  them  one  must  remain  in  the  vicinity  at  least  a 
week.     The  gypsy  encampments  in  the  country-side  are 
very  interesting,  but  the  prudent  traveller  will  scarcely 
■care  to  venture  among  them  without  a  stout  escort. 
Erom  Granada  the  distance  to  Malaga  by  rail  is  119  M. 
Malaga  {Roma,  on  the  Alameda;  Royal   Victoria f 
Paris;  Jnglaterra,fiecond class,  butgood),  with  135,000 


420  MALAGA.  —  GIBRALTAR. 

inhab.,  may  be  easily  seen  in  half  a  day.  The  exquisite 
climate  and  the  beautiful  situation  of  the  town  are  its 
chief  attractions.  The  Episcopal  Palace,  the  Cit^  Halt, 
the  new  Custom  House,  the  Theatre,  which  can  contain 
2,000  spectators,  the  vast  Bull  Ring,  which  holds 
10,000,  are  not  architecturally  remarkable.  The  Al- 
cazaba  is  an  ancient  fortress  which  antedates  the 
Arabic  occupation.  The  Atarazana  is  an  old  arsenal 
of  the  Moors.  The  Castle  of  Gibralfaro  is  on  a  hill  to 
the  E.  of  the  city.  The  higbest  tower  is  an  imposing 
mass  sustained  by  4  arches  and  nearly  100  ft.  high. 
Good  view  from  this  tower.  The  most  beautiful  prom- 
enade in  this  town  is  the  Alameda  :  many  pretty  loun.- 
taius  and  statues  here.  The  Cathedral,  which  would  be 
rich  in  any  other  country,  is  not  remarkable  for  Spain. 
All  through  this  country  grow  wheat,  oats,  olives,  all 
kinds  of  fruit :  orange,  lemon,  and  fig  trees  are  abun- 
dant. Try  and  time  your  visit  to  Granada  so  as  to 
connect  with  the  steamer  going  to  Gibraltar. 

Gibraltar  {Royal;  Bristol;  Grand;  Huropa)  is  a 
eity  situated  on  a  slope  on  the  W.  part  of  the  famous 
.  rock  and  facing  the  bay.  It  has  about  20,000  inhab. 
exclusive  of  the  I^nglish  garrison  of  6,000  men.  Main. 
Street  is  the  principal  artery  of  the  town.  A  narrow 
road  connects  the  mainland  with  the  rock,  and  this  is 
guarded  by  batteries.  Trom  top  to  bottom  the  mt. 
is  full  of  excavations,  and  out  of  every  one  looks  the 
mouth  of  a  cannon.  At  summit  is  an  unfinished  tower, 
called  O'Hara's  or  JSt.  George's.  It  was  intended  to  be 
sufficiently  high  to  enable  the  sentinels  to  overlook  the 
Bay  of  Cadiz  and  see  the  movements  there.  In  1704 
the  English  fleet,  sustaining  the  rights  of  the  Archduke 
Charles  of  Austria  to  the  crown  of  Spain  against 
Philip  V.  presented  itself  before  Gibraltar,  the  lurtifi- 
catious  of   which  were  then  in  ruins  an*^  occupied  by  a 


SPAIN.  421 

garrison  of  80  men.  The  town  was  taken,  and 
although  in  the  name  of  the  archduke,  England 
thought  it  proper  to  keep  it.  Various  attempts  to  take 
it  back  were  made  in  1727,  1779,  and  1782,  but  with- 
out success.  ^  The  fortifications  can  be  visited  with 
special  permission,  which  may  be  easily  obtained  at 
the  hotels.  There  is  also  a  good  club  to  which 
strangers  may  be  presented.  Excursions  may  be  made 
froni  Gibraltar  to  several  interesting  points  on  the 
African  coast,  notably  Ceuta  and  Tangier.  Opposite 
Gibraltar  is  the  town  of  Algeciras  {Hotel  Reina 
Cristina) ,  the  occasional  scene  of  international  con- 
ferences. It  is  a  typically  Spanish  town  situated  on 
a  beautiful  bay  and  commanding  a  fine  view  of  the 
rock  and  fortifications  of  Gibraltar. 

Cadiz  {Fonda  de  Paris;  Fonda  de  Francia;  Fonda, 
ie  Cadiz;  de  Europa)  is  one  of  the  most  charming  of 
Spanisli  towns  (6i,000  inliab  ),  It  is  on  a  peninsula, 
which  extends  iuto  the  ocean,  and  is  generally  consid- 
ered the  most  agreeable  town  in  Andalusia.  It  is 
strongly  fortified,  and  its  position  is  well  calculated  for 
defence.  Notice  the  Fort  of  S.  Catalina:  also  the 
Fort  of  S.  Sebastian.  Erom  the  Torre  de  la  Figia,  in  the 
centre  of  the  town,  you  get  an  admirable  view  of  Cadia 
and  its  surroundings.  Nearly  all  the  houses  are  white, 
and  their  terraces  and  balconies  are  very  picturesque. 
The  Casas  Gonsistoriales  occupy  fine  buildings  on  the 
Plaza  de  Isa,bel  Segunda.  The  Alameda  is  a  fine 
promenade  on  one  of  the  ramparts  N.  E.  of  the  city. 
The  Park  Genoves  is  a  fine  pleasure  ground  with  sea 
view.  There  are  many  colleges  and  seminaries, 
as  well  as  an  Academy  of  Fine  Arts  and  numerous 
libraries.  The  new  Cathedral,  which  is  at  the 
south  end  of  the  town,  is  not  a  very  success- 
ful piece  of  architecture.  A  great  profusion  of 
marbles  h/»  ve  been  used  in  its  decora':ion,  but  the  gen- 


422  CADIZ.  —  SEVILLE. 

eral  effect  is  confused  and  disagreeable.  The  Treasury 
is  rich  in  relics,  jewels,  etc.  The  old  Cathedral  has 
fallen  into  decay.  In  the  chapel  of  the  Convent  of  S. 
Catalina  are  some  pictures  by  Murillo.  Steam  com- 
munication between  Cadiz  and  Portugal,  England,  Hol- 
land, the  Trench  and  German  coasts,  and  Mexico,  is 
very  frequent. 

You  may  go  from  Cadiz  to  Seville  by  steamboat,  on 
the  Guadalquivir,  in  8  nrs. ;  fares,  15  p. ;  breakfast  on 
iDoard  from  3  to  3  p.  The  journey  is  pretty,  but  most 
travellers  will  probably  prefer  the  rail  route,  about 
82f  M. ;  passing  through  Jerez  de  la  Frontera,  a  pretty 
town,  enriched  by  commerce  in  wine  and  other  products 
of  its  generous  soil.  Here  see  curious  monastery, 
museum,  finely  decorated  city  hall.  About  2  M.  S.  E. 
of  the  town  is  a  noted  Carthusian  monastery.  d| 

Seville  {Hotel  de  Madrid;  de  Paris;  de  Roma;^ 
Europa),  with  143,000  inhabitants,  requires  a  long 
visit.     We  will  not  attempt  to  describe  it  in  detail, 
but  will  simply  indicate  the  things  to  see.     Seville 
has  kept  its  ancient  character  pretty  well.     Most 
of  its  streets  are  narrow  and  crooked,  and  nearly 
all  the  houses  have  their  patios,  or  inner  courtyards, 
separated  from  the  street  by  vestibules  paved  with 
white  and  black  marble,  and  closed  by  doors  of  iron 
gratings  beautifully  worked  by  skilful  artisans.    The 
Plaza  S.  Fernando  is  a  vast  square  which  in  the  morn- 
ing is  inundated   with   sunlight,  and   is  planted  with 
orange-trees,  and  surrounded  on  three  sides  by  hotels 
and  boarding-houses,  and  on  the  fourth  by  the  Palace 
of  the   Ayuntawiento.     The   Calle  de   Genova,  at  the 
S.  W.  angle  of  the  square,  leads  to  the 

Cathedral. — This  marvellous  ch.,  with  its  famous 
tower  of  the  Giralda,  is  a  city  in  itself.  Nowhere  else 
in  Europe  is  the  splendor  and  majesty  of  the  Catb-^Jia 


SPAIN.  ,t23 

religion  so  well  seen  as  here.  The  Giralda,  a  veritable 
marvel  of  Arab  architecture,  was  the  minaret  of  the  old 
mosque  of  the  Moorish  Kings,  who  governed  Seville 
after  the  destruction  of  the  Khalifate.  It  was  built  dur- 
ing the  12th  century  by  the  Arab  El  Ghebir,  who  was 
the  inventor  of  algebra.  The  tower  is  350  ft.  high. 
In  1568  it  was  capped  with  a  belfry,  which  in  its  turn  is 
surmounted  by  an  enormous  statue  of  Faith,  which 
despite  its  immense  weight  serves  as  a  weather-vane. 
The  Cathedral  proper  was  begun  in  1403,  finished  1519. 
The  most  striking  entrance  is  the  Fuerta  del  Perdon, 
which  was  probably  in  old  times  the  entrance  to  a 
miuaret.  It  opens  on  the  Orange  Court,  from  v/hich 
you  pass  nuder  a  fine  Arabic  arch  into  the  Cathedral  by 
the  so-called  Lizard  Door.  Notice  especially  tlie  Chief 
Altar,  the  Choir,  the  gigantic  Organs,  tlie  2hmb  of 
Fernando  Columbus,  the  Capilla  Real,  which  contains 
the  tomb  of  St.  Ferdinand,  and  the  tomb  of  Alfonso  the 
Wise  :  also  a  portrait  of  Ferdinand,  by  Murillo,  in  the 
chapel  of  the  Baptistery.  Observe  the  noted  picture  rep- 
resenting St.  Anthony  of  Padua,  which  Vv^as  cut  out  of 
its  frame  and  carried  off  to  New  Yoric  in  1875,  and  has 
now  been  restored.  In  the  upper  sacristy  there  are 
also  several  paintings  by  the  same  artist.  In  the 
sacristy  of  Los  Calices  is  a  St.  Dorotliea  by  Murillo, 
an  "  Ecce  Homo "  by  Morales,  and  a  remarkable 
painting  by  Goya.  In  the  SacrisHa  Mai/or  is  the 
vast  and  magnificent  custodia  in  silver  made  in  1587 
by  Juan  de  Arfe.  It  is  in  the  form  of  a  circular 
temple,  crowned  with  a  statue  of  St.  John  and  covered 
with  a  most  prodigious  number  of  ornaments  and 
statues.  Seville  during  Holy  Week  presents  a  con- 
stant succession  of  curious  spectacles,  religious  in 
character.  From  the  top  ^f  the  Giralda  Tower, 
which   is    reached   b.y   an   inclined  plane,    up   which 


4:24:  SEVILLE.  —  THE  ALCAZAE. 

it  is  said  two  horses  can  be  ridden  abreast,  ^ood  view 
of  the  town,  the  river  winding  through  tlie  plains, 
and  the  hills  beyond.  Leaving  tlie  Cathedral  by  the 
Qiralda  Door,  you  reach  the  square  on  which  is  the 
Archbishop'' s  Palace.  Thence  go  round  the  Cathedral 
to  the  Plaza  del  Triunfo,  where  is  a  monument  com- 
memorating the  earthquake  of  1755.  In  the  middle  of 
this  square  is  the  Lonja,  where  is  a  precious  collection 
of  documents  relative  to  the  discovery  and  conquest  Oi 
America.  This  is  called  the  Indian  archives.  Not  far 
away  is 

The  Alcazar. — This  is,  with  the  Mosque  at  Cordova 
and    the   Alhambra  at   Granada,   the   most   beautiful  & 
Moorish  monument  in  Spain.     It  was  connected  witl?  W 
the  great  walls  that  ran  round  Seville  in  the  time  ol 
the   Arabs,     In  the  Alcazar  were  born  and  died  the 
Kings  Alfonso  the  Wise,  Don  Sancho  IV.,  and  Alfonso 
XI.,  father  of  Don  Pedro  the  Cruel.     The  local  guides, 
who   are   very  civil  and  obliging,  and  satisfied  with 
reasonable  pay,  will  give  you  full  description  of  the  || 
beauties  of  the  Alcazar.     Ask  the  guide  to  take  you    -« 
through  the  modern  royal  rooms,  inhabited  by  the 
Monarchs  of  Spam  whenever  they  visit  Seville.     The 
gardens  of  the  Alcazar  are  delightful. 

The  Casa  de  Pilatos,  or  House  of  Pilate,  is  an 
edifice  built  at  the  beginning  of  the  16th  century,  by 
the  first  Marquis  of  Tarifa.  Tradition  says  he  had 
brought  back  from  a  Journey  made  to  Jerusalem  in 
1519  a  quantity  of  earth  from  the  very  house  of 
Pontius  Pilate,  and  this  was  sufficient  to  form  the 
layer  on  which  were  laid  the  foundations  ol  the 
present  palace,  built  on  the  plans  of  the  dwelling 
of  Pilate  at  Jerusalem.  There  are  a  great  nuni- 
ber  of  curious  and  interesting  palaces  and  pri- 
vate houses  to  be  seen  in  Seville.     The  Casa  de  los 


SPAIN.  423 

• 

Taveros,  where  tlie  tribunal  of  the  Inquisition  had  its 
sitting,    will    attract    the   traveller's   attention.      The 
guides  procure  admission  for  you  to  the  patios  of  the 
richest  houses,  where  you  can  get  an  idea  of  the  luxury 
and  beauty  of  these  southern  Spanish  residences.     The 
Ch.  of  S.  Kartino  has  some  good  pictures.     The  B.?s- 
'pifal  of  La  Caridad,  or  the  Charity,  near  the  Goldeu 
Tower,  which  stands  on  the  bank  of  the  Guadalquivir, 
contains  several  of  Murillo's  best  paintings.     The  pro- 
vincial  museuui  is   also   quite   rich  in  the   works  of 
Murillo,  Zurbaran,  and  other  noted  artists.     Murillo 
was  born  in  Seville^  Jan.  1,  1618.     The  Palace  of 
Santelmo,  the  residence  of  the  Duke  of  Montpensier, 
is  one  of  the  marvels  of  this  city.     Its  gardens  now 
i'orm    the    Parqiie    3£aria    Luisa.      Seville    is    as 
busy  and  thriving  as  Cordova  is  deserted  and  shabby. 
The  banks  of  the  Guadalquivir  are   lined  with  ware^^ 
houses,  and  the  traffic  is  very  brisk.     From  Seville,  if 
you  adopt  our  plan  for  a  short  Spanish  journey,  we 
recommend  you  to  proceed  directly  to  Madrid.     If  you 
have  not  stopped  at  Cordova  on  your  way  down,  but 
have   gone   directly  through  from  the  Alcazar  de  S. 
Juan,  as  many  do,  you  may  halt  there  on  your  return 
journey.     Time  from  Seville  to  Cordova,  nearly  4  hrs.; 
fares,    65  r.    60,   49  r.  30,  29  r.  45.     From   Cordova 
to   Madrid   it  is  2745  M.  ;    time  by  ordinary  trains, 
16  hrs.;  fares,  321  r.,  171  r.,  104 r.  98.     The  express 
rates  are  somewhat  higher.     In  the  late  summer  and 
autumn  months  there  is  an  express  train,  3  times  a 
week  each,  way,  between  Madrid  and  Seville.     Between 
the  Alcazar  de  S.  Juan  and  Madrid  is  the  station  of 
Casfillijo,  where  you  may  branch  off  to  Toledo,  but  we 
do  not  recommend  this.     It  is  better  to  go  to  Madrid 
first ;  then  to  make  the  Toledo  visit  a  round-trip  excui> 
sion  of  one  day.     A  little  beyond  Castillijo  is 


4:26  ARANJUEZ.  —  MADRID. 

• 

Aranjuez,  M-itli  refreshment  buffet.  This  is  one  of 
the  summer  residences  of  the  Spanish  court.  Here  is 
apalace,  beautifully  situated,  commanding  an  immense 
view;  but  there  is  little  that  is  architecturally  striking 
in  the  building.  The  gardens  are  quite  remarkable. 
The  river  Tagus  flows  through  the  domain. 

Madrid  (Grand  Hotel  de  la  Paz;  Be  Roma;  Be 
Paris;  Fonda  de  los  Embajadores;  IngUs;  Penin- 
sular;  ^  Cuatro  Naziones;  Oriente),  with  510,000 
mhab.,  is  the  capital  of  Spain,  the  residence  of  the 
Court,  and  contains  the  finest  paintings  in  Europe. 
John  Hay  said  of  Madrid  that  it  was  a  "capital 
with  malice  aforethought,"  by  which  he  alluded  to  its 
situation  in  the  midst  of  a  great  arid  plain,  swept  in 
winter  by  the  murderous  winds  from  the  mts.  We 
recommend  the  tourist  to  devote  liis  chief  attention  to 
the  museum ;  then,  if  his  time  permits,  to  include  the 
other  edifices  and  collections  of  Madrid. 

The  Museo  del  Prado  contains  vast  and  absolutely 
unrivalled  collection  of  the  works  of  the  old  masters, 
but  they  are  not  very  well  arranged.  Two  immense 
galleries  are  consecrated  to  Spanish  painters,  and  oth- 
ers contain  the  different  Italian,  French,  Flemish,  aud 
Dutch  schools.  Some  idea  of  the  riches  of  the  museum 
can  be  formed  from  the  statement  that  it  contains  46 
pictures  by  Murillo,  14  by  Zurbaran,  58  by  Eibera, 
64  by  Velasquez,  55  by  Teniers,  16  by  llubens,  10 
by  Raphael,  20  by  Poussin,  66  by  Luca  Giordano,  22 
by  Yan  Dyck,  54  by  Breughel,  16  by  Claude  Lorraine, 
16  by  Guido  Reni,  43  by  Titian,  54  by  Tintoretto, 
and  25  by  Paul  Veronese,  About  half-way  down 
the  principal  gallery  a  door  opens  into  an  oval  hall 
called  the  Salon  de  la  Reyna  Isabel.  Here  are  grouped 
together  the  chefs  d'oeuvre  of  the  museum.  The 
guardians  are  very  attentive.     Catalogues  edited  witJi 


SPAINo  427 

great  care  may  be  had  at  the  booksellers',  or  at  the 
museum. 

In  the  Real  Academia  de  Bellas  Aries  there  is  a 
collection  of  about  300  pictures,  in  11  large  rooms: 
Murillo,  Goya,  Rubens,  and  Zurbaran  are  well  repre- 
sented. The  Museo  de  Arte  Moderno  contains 
modern  Spanish  paintings  and  sculptures.  There 
are  several  interesting  private  collections  in  Madrid. 
The  couriers  at  the  hotels  will  indicate  them  to 
you. 

The  Royal  Palace  (Palacio  Real)  is  situated  in  the 
W.  part  of  the  town.  Among  the  80  rooms  on  the  1st 
floor,  the  largest  and  finest  is  the  Hall  uf  the  Ambassa- 
dors. The  vault  was  painted  by  Tiepolo,  and  represents 
the  exaltation  of  the  Spanish  monarchy.  The  walls  are 
draped  with  velvet  embroidered  with  gold,  and  12  im- 
mense mirrors  also  decorate  it.  On  the  r.  of  the  throne, 
which  is  guarded  by  4  gilded  bronze  lions,  is  a  statue  of 
Prudence,  and  on  the  1.  that  of  Justice.  Tlie  chapel  is 
extremely  rich,  but  not  very  handsome.  The  library, 
the  theatre,  the  magnificent  collection  of  Flemish  tapes- 
tries, should  be  seen.  On  the  S.  of  the  square  of  the  Pa- 
lacio Real  is  the  Armeria  (Museum  of  Armor),  which 
contains  an  extremely  interesting  collection.  Here 
are,  among  many  relics  of  famous  dead,  the  sword 
of  the  Cid  Campeador,  that  of  the  Great  Captain,  Gon- 
zalvo  of  Cordova,  and  that  of  Don  Juan  of  Austria: 
also  the  helmet  of  Francis  I,  The  Militarif  Museum 
of  Artillery,  at  the  Buenretiro,  is  also  worth  visiting. 
At  the  entrance  are  colossal  statues  of  Philip  IV.  and 
Louis  I.  The  museum  gives  a  complete  review  of  the 
progress  made  in  artillery  from  the  12th  to  the  17th 
century.  Here  also  are  many  flags  carried  during  the 
Spanish  conquest  of  America  The  naval  museum, 
the  cabinet  of  natural  history,  the  botanical  garden,  the 


428  MADRID. 

library  (small  but  good)  deserve  a  visit.  Madrid  tas 
several  important  libraries,  most  noticeable  among 
whicli  are  those  of  the  University  and  of  the  legislative 
bodies. 

The  Palace  of  the  Congress,  or  Chamber  of  Deputies, 
is  a  handsome  building,  but  not  very  remarkable.     Its 
interior  is  very  richly  ornamented  with  fine  paintings  : 
that  of  the  Senate  occupies  the  old  ch.  of  an  Augustin- 
ian  convent.     In  the  great  square  of  the  Puerta  del  Sol 
is  the  Ministry  of  the  Interior,  formerly  a  post-office. 
The  other  public  buildings  and  the  Palaces  are  rather 
cold  and  formal  in  structure.     The  effect  of  the  architec- 
ture of  Madrid  is  not  pleasing,  compared  Math  the  won- 
derful  richness   of  decoration  to   M^hich  the  eye  has 
become  accustomed  in  Southern  Spain.      See  in  the 
Plaza  Mai/or  the  equestrian  statue  of  Philip  III. ;  and 
in  the  Plaza  de  Oriente  the  statue  of  Philip  IV.     In 
the  Plaza  de  las  Cortes  is  a  statue  of  Cervantes.     None, 
of  the  churches  is  particularly  striking;  the  Catedrdl 
de  Nuestra  Senot^a  de  la  Almudena  is  on  the  site  of 
the  old  Armory,      The  Ch.  of  the  Atocha,  a  modern 
Romanesque  structure,  contains  the  tombs  of  General 
Castanos,  of  Marshal  Prim,  and  of  other  notabilities. 
In    the    old    church    the    marriages    of    the    royal 
family  were  celebrated,  and  the  troops  took  the  oath 
of  allegiance.     The  cemeteries  in  the  neighborhood  of 
Madrid,  with  their  long  rows  of  walls  in  which  the  dead 
are  sealed  up,  are  very  interesting.  ^h.&  Plaza  de  Tor o>^, 
or  the  BuH  Ring  of  Madrid,  is  one  of  the  largest  in  the 
kingdom.     It  is  a  structure  in  Arabic  style,  built  of 
brick,  stone,  and  iron,  and   can  seat  13,300  people. 
Every  seat  is  numbered,  and  tickets  to  the  bull-fights, 
which  are  usually  given  every  Sunday  from  April  to 
October,  are  comparatively  inexpensive.     Be  careful  in 
choosing  your  place  to  note  whether  it  is  on  the  shady 
or  the  sunny  side.     This  is  very  important  in  Spain. 


SPAIN.  429 

The  comic  opera  and  some  of  the  minor  theatres  should 
be  visited.     The  Prado  is   a   large   boulevard   which 
runs  roaud  a  great  part  of  the  city,  from  the  old  Atocha 
:  gate  to  the  Puerta  de  Recoletos.     The  Royal  Museum 
is  on  this  boulevard.     Here  on  summer  evenings  is  a 
maguiiicent  display  of  Spanish  beauty :  commemorative 
;  monument  here  to  the  second  of  Ma_^    one  of  the  epi- 
1  sodes  of  the  French  occupation  of  1^)8.     Tliere   are 
j  numerous  other  line  promenades  within  the  city.     The 
\  Pueria  de  Alcald,  an  arch  of  triumph  to  commemorate 
j  the  entry  of  Charles  III.  into  Madrid,  may  be  seen  on 
the  way  to  the  Bull  Ring.     The  Puerta  de  Toledo  was 
I  built  to  celebrate  the  return  of  Ferdinand  VII.  from  his 
I  captivity.      The    Plaza    de,    Madrid  is   quite  fine. 
I  There    are    several    bridges    over    the    little     river 
I  Manzanares,  which  oddly  enough  is  for  the  greater 
part  of  the  year  without  any  water  in  its  channel. 
The  Puerta  del  Sol  is  a  gay  plaza  in  the  centre  of 
the  city.     About  7  Mo  from  Madrid,  on  the  r.  bank 
)f  the  Manzanares,  is  the  Royal  Palace  of  the  Pardo. 
Sxcursion  to  the  Esourial  may  be  made.     It  is  31-|  M. 
from  Madrid ;  five  trains  daily  ;  fares,  25  r.  50,  19  r.  25, 
11  r.  50.     The  Escurial  is  called  by  the  Spaniards  the 
eighth  wonder  of  the  world.     Philip  II.  built  it  in  1685 
to  comtnemorate  the  taking  of  St.  Quentin,  and  to  ac- 
complish a  vow  which  he  made  to  St.  Lawrence.     This 
vast  building  has  15  principal  entrances,  and  more  than 
1,100  windows.     It  is  entirely  built  of  granite,  and  its 
appearance  is  monotonous    and   cold.       The  ch.,  the 
Capilla  Meyor,  filled  with  royal  monuments,  the  sac- 
'  risty,  a  vast  vaulted   hall  with  a  marble   altar   orna- 
mented with   bronze,  the  choir,  and   the  pantheon  or 
vault,  where  the  kinsrs  of  Spain  are  buried,  are  the  prin- 
I  cipal  things  to  see.  You  reach  the  pantheon  by  a  masr- 
.^^cent  sta i 'ease  of  granite  and  marble.  The  urn  con- 


I3G  TOLEDO. 

taming  the  remains  of  Charles  V.  was  opened  in  1870, 
and  the  body  was  even  then  in  perfect  preservation. 
The  Library  of  books  and  tlie  MS.  Library  will  attract 
the  attention  of  scholars.  The  n)ain  entrance  to  the 
palace  is  in  the  middle  of  the  N.  fapade.  See  the  Hall 
of  Battles,  covered  with  frescos  representing  Spanish 
conqnests  ;  and  the  apartments  in  which  Philip  II.  lived 
and  died.  The  Pavilion  of  Charles  IV.,  called  the  Casa 
del  Prmcipe,  is  a  charming  little  mnsenm  of  paintings, 
sculptures,  and  mosaics.  See  the  King's  Seat,  where 
Philip  II.  came  to  sit  when  presidiug  over  the  work  of 
the  palace.  The  royal  abode  of  La  Granja  is  on  the 
route  from  Madrid  to  Segovia.  Its  apartments  are  said 
to  be  even  more  splendid  than  those  of  the  palace  at 
Madrid. 

There  are  two  routes  from  Madrid  to  the  ancient  and 
picturesque  town  of  Toledo.  One  leads  through  the 
royal  residence  town  of  Aranjuez ;  the  other  is  a  little 
more  direct ;  fares  about  the  same  by  both  lines. 

Toledo  {Hotel  Castilla;  Fonda  del  Worte;  Fonda 
de  Lino;  Fonda  Imperial)  is  one  of  the  most 
remarkable  towns  in  Europe.  The  riy.  stat.  is  in  the 
valley  at  the  foot  of  the  hill,  near  the  fine  Alcantara 
Bridge.  An  omnibus  takes  passengers  from  the  train 
to  the  top  of  the  hill.  On  the  way  up  observe  the  fine 
view  in  the  valley,  where  old  Toledo,  which  was  a  town 
of  200,000  inhab.,  was  situated.  The  Toledo  of  to-day 
has  only  about  30,000.  The  river  Tagus  makes  a  great 
curve  around  the  town.  It  is  crossed  by  the  Alcantara 
and  the  8.  Martino  Bridges.  The  aspect  of  the  city  is 
majestic.  Immense  ramparts  on  the  rocks ;  great  gates 
flanked  with  Moorish  towers :  old  Puerta  Visagra, 
which  dates  from  the  Arabic  domination ;  the  celebrated 
Puerta  del  Sol,  in  the  interior  of  the  city,  a  chef  d'oeuvre  ' 
of  Arabic  architecture,  are  all  impressive.     The  pria* 


SPAIN.  431 

cipal  square  is  the  old  Zocodover,  to-day  called  the 
Place  of  the  Constitution.  The  principal  objects  of 
interest  are  the  Cathedral,  the  Alcazar  the  celebrated 
Ch.  and  Convent  of  S.  Juan  de  los  Rei/es,  and  a  military 
college.  The  Cathedral  was  loegun  in  1237,  and  finished 
2\  centuries  later.  Its  arcliitecture  is  pure  Gothic: 
exterior  of  great  majesty.  The  prnicipal  W.  front  has 
3  doors,  called  those  of  the  Escrilmios,  the  Perdon,' 
and  the  Torre,  Door  of  the  Pardon  is  the  largest  and 
richest.  To  the  r.  of  the  fagade  is  the  tower  :  on  the  1. 
the  Mozarabic  chapel.  The  tower  is  nearly  SOO  ft. 
high,  and  the  great  bell  in  it  weighs  nearly  40,000  lbs. 
The  beauties  of  the  Cathedral  are  so  numerous  that  we 
renounce  a  detailed  uescription  of  them  here.  Observe 
particularly  the  Door  of  the  Lions  and  its  rich  chapels, 
the  Capilla  Mai/or,  the  wonderful  effect  of  the  vast 
range  of  stained-glass  windows,  especially  when  the  sun 
is  shining  througli  tliem  in  the  morning,  the  Coro,  a.nd 
tlie  beautiful  Gothic  portal  of  the  Sala  Capitular.  The 
Tombs  of  the  Coustable  Don  Alvaro  de  Lima  and  of 
the   Cardinal  de   Albornoz  are  very  imposing. 

The  Ch.  of  S.  Juan  de  los  Reyes  (1477)  is  ornamented 
with  a  great  number  of  chains  hung  on  the  walls  out- 
side, memorials  of  captivities  among  Moslems.  The 
cloisters,  recently  restored,  are  among  the  most 
beautiful  in  the  world.  The  stone  sculptures  here  are 
of  extraordinary  delicacy  and  finish.  The  provincial 
museum  contains  a  collection  of  about  300  pictures. 
8.  Maria  la  Blanco,  is  a  curious  memorial  of  the  Jewish 
epoch.  The  Military  College  contains  about  600  cadets, 
who  study  their  profession  here  from  the  age  of  13  to 
18  years.  The  Alcazar  is  a  superb  edifice  which 
Drosses  the  nighest  point  of  the  hill  on  which  the  city 
is  built.  At  the  4  angles  of  its  walls  are  square  towers. 
The  courtyard  is  formed  of  33  arcades.     It  has  been 


432  VALLADOLID.  -  BURGOS. 

three  times  bin'ned  and  three  times  restored.  Iiv 
the  court  is  a  group  commemorating  the  conquest  of 
Tunis  by  Charles  V.  See  the  Pasto  de  las  Rosas; 
the  Paseo  de  Madrid. 

Valladolid  {Francia,  Calle  de  Teresa  Gil;  Siglo, 
Plaza  de  S.  Ana)  is  the  next  place  of  interest;  although 
from  the  junction  of  Medina  del  Campo  you  can  go 
by  branch  lines  to  the  old  university  town  of  Sala- 
manca, or  to  Zamora.  Valladolid  is  a  town  of  65,000 
inhab.,  on  the  Pisuerga.  Here  see  University ,  Cathe- 
dral, Santa  Maria  la  Antigua,  San  Pablo,  Colegio 
de  San  Gregorio,  Museum,  and  Royal  Palace.  The 
University  Library  has  a  collection  of  Bibles.  See 
Juan  de  Juni's  "Virgen  de  los  Cuchillos"  in  the 
church  of  Las  Angustias,  and  house  where  Columbus 
died  in  1506.  The  Museum  of  Valladolid,  which  is 
located  in  the  Colegio  de  Santa  Cruz,  contains  sculp" 
tures  in  wood  and  examples  of  the  works  of  Rubens, 
Mascagni,  Carducci,  and  Cardenas.  The  principal 
treasure  of  the  cathedral  is  a  magnificent  custodia, 
or  tabernacle,  in  silver. 

Burgos  (Hotels :  Fonda  del  Norte;  Paris),  with 
32,000  nihab.,  may  be  seen  in  a  short  time.  Notice 
\\\e  Bronze  Statue  of  Charles  III. ;  the  celebrated  Casa 
del  Cordoji;  the  Oasade Miranda,  covered  with  sculp- 
tures; the  Espolon,  beautifully  decorated,  vvdth  3  fine 
alleys  bordered  with  trees,  filled  with  statues,  gardens, 
and  fountains ;  the  Cathedral,  one  of  the  marvels  of  the 
13th  century.  Its  portal  and  2  clock-towers  are  of  Goth- 
ic architecture.  The  principal  fapade  towards  the  W. 
is  a  marvel  of  stone  lacework.  The  interior  is  magnifi- 
cent, and  ornamented  with  pictures,  statues,  tombs, 
sculptures,  bas-reliefs,  etc  Observe  the  Tomb  of  the 
Constable  of  Castille.  In  Ch.  of  S.  Estehan  is  a  very 
fine  Cena.  Notice  the  Triumphal  Arch  raised  by  Philip 
il,  to  Pemando  Gonzales :  also  the  house  of  the  Cid, 
or  the  monument  erected  in  1784  on  the  rums  of  that 


SPAIN.  433 

house.  In  the  City  Hall  are  the  remaLis  of  the  Great 
Captain  and  his  wife,  enclosed  in  a  sculptured  wooden 
colfin.  The  Arch  of  S.  Maria  is  very  handsome. 
Many  fine  excursions  in  the  vicinity  of  Burgos. 

The  towns  of  Vittoria,  Pamplona,  Bilbao,  and 
San  Sebastian  (the  pretty  watering-place  frequented 
in  late  years  by  English  and  Americans)  all  deserve 
attention;  but  the  tourist  will  hardly  find  time  to 
stop  at  any  of  them.  The  frontier  of  France  is 
reached  at  I?^u7i.  There  is  little  of  importance  to  see 
in  Irun :  memorials  of  the  Carlist  civil  war  in  all  this 
neighborhood.  Hendaye  is  the  first  French  station. 
A  little  beyond  it  is  >S'.  Jean  de  Luz.  The  old  town 
of  FontaraMa  may  be  reached  from  Irun. 

Next  comes  Biarritz  {Grand  Hotel;  Victoria  et  de 
la  Plage;  HAngleterre;  Pes  Princes;  Pes  Amhas^ 
sadeurs;  Pe  V Europe;  good  Casino  here;  omnibus 
to  Bayonne  every  half  hour),  one  of  the  most  popu- 
lar seaside  resorts  on  the  S.  coast  of  France,  It  was 
a  favorite  resort  of  the  Empress  Eugenie. 

Bayonne,  23f  M.  from  Irun  {Hotel  du  Commerce; 
St.  JEtienne;  Pes  Anibassadeurs;  Pe  France; 
Castille),  with  27,000  inhab.,  is  at  the  confluence  of 
the  Adcur  and  the  Nive.  Fine  stained  glass  windows 
in  the  Cathedral,  15th  century.  The  Place  Gram^ 
mont  po^itams  the  Theatre,  the  Mairie,  and  the 
(yu-°tm^  House,  Good  view  of  the  sea  from  the 
citadel.  The  bayonet  was  invented  here,  whence  its 
£tame. 


434  LISBON 


PORTUGAL. 

WE  have  thought  it  probable  that  the  vacatioa 
tourists  would  not  be  likely  to  push  their  jour- 
ney as  far  as  Lisbon,  but  we  give  a  short  paragrapli  con- 
cerning the  journey  to  Portugal.  Tares  from  Madrid 
to  Badajos,'61\\  M.,  299  r.  50,  227  r.  91,  145  r.  87. 
From  Badajos  to  Lisbon  it  is  174^  M.,  5,260  reis, 
4,100  r.,  2,930  r. ;  time,  10  hrs. ;  2  trains  a  day.  Lisbon 
time  is  25  min.  slower  than  that  of  Madrid.  The  reis, 
the  Portuguese  monetary  unit,  is  about  \  centime,  or  2| 
mills  :  each  franc  is  therefore  worth  200  reis.  The  conto 
de  reis,  or  a  million  of  reis,  is  500  francs.  The  Spanish 
real,  25  centimes,  is  46  reis.  On  the  way  from  Badajos 
to  Lisbon  you  pass  through  Santarem,  where  there  are 
many  curious  remains  of  the  Moorish  architecture  of 
the  Middle  Ages. 

,  Lisbon,  in  Portuguese  Lishoa  {Avenida  Palace; 
Grand  Hotel  Central,  situated  on  the  Bay;  Continen- 
\tal;  Braganga;  Durand,  mod.  charges), with 310,000 
tniiiib.,  is  on  the  r.  bank  of  the  river  Tagiis,  built 
in  an  amphitheatre  on  numerous  hills.  The  general 
view  of  Lisbon  on  approaching  it  by  river  or  by  rail 
is  magnificent.  The  finest  streets  are  those  of  the 
D'm'O  do  Praga  Augusta,  tlie  Chiado,  and  Alecrim. 
The  Commercial  Square,  Praga  do  Commercio,  has  tlie 
largest  and  most  remarkable  public  buildings  in  the 
city.  It  is  also  called  the  Esplanade  of  the  Hills. 
In  the  middle  is  the  colossal  equestrian  bronze  statue 
of  Jose  I.  On  3  sides  of  the  square  are  sumptuous 
buildings,  the  Exchange,  the  Custom  House,  the  Post 
Office,ihQ  Ministries, e.tr'     On  the  middle  of  the  N.  side. 


PORTUGAL.  435 

magnificent  Triumphal  Arch.  The  Cathedral,  Chs.  of 
S.  Antonio,  of  S.  Roqiie,  of  the  Carmelites,  and  many 
convents  have  rich  collections  of  art  treasures.  The 
Royal  Palace,  or  Pa^o  das  Necessidades,  faces  a  small 
square  of  the  same  name.  See  Botanical  Gardens, 
reported  the  finest  m  the  world.  Observe  beautiful 
aqueduct  which  crosses  the  Alcantara  Valley.  The 
Library  of  the  Royal  Academy  of  Sciences,  National 
Museum  of  Fine  Arts,  and  the  San  Carlos  and  Dona 
Maria  Segunda  Theatres  should  be  seen.  There  are 
but  few  remains  of  old  Lisbon,  which  was  destroyed 
by  the  great  earthquake.  The  inclined  plane  rlys.  are 
convenient ;  fine  views  on  many  of  them.  The  Belem 
possesses  a  great  many  fine  gardens.  The  old  Jieiem 
Monastery  is  worth  a  visit.  Ramalhao,  the  Almada 
Mqfra,  a  vast  convent  ch.,  and  the  Palace  of  Cintra, 
where  is  an  old  castle  of  the  Moors,  are  the  principal 
suburban  points  for  excursions.  From  Lisbon  there  is 
weekly  steam  communication  with  South  America,  with 
the  East,  and  with  England.  A  journey  may  be  made 
to  Oporto,  taking  Coimhra  on  the  way.  Eares  to 
Oporto,  6,610  reis,  5,140  r.,  3,680  r. ;  time,  11-|  lirs. ; 
distance,  158^  M. 

Coimbra  {Continental;  Mondego;  Braganga)  is  on 
the  r.  bank  of  the  Mondego  and  has  a  most  delicious 
climate.  It  is  very  rich  in  poetic  tradition  and  has 
numerous  manufactures  of  faience.  The  Homans 
made  it  one  of  their  most  important  military  posts.  To- 
day the  remains  of  the  old  walls  are  still  to  be  seen. 
JJniversity ,  with  900  students  here.  The  old  Cathedral 
is  Byzantine,  and  quite  rich  in  character.  The  Chapel 
of  the  Twelve  Apostles  is  remarkable^  Yisit  Quinfa 
das  Lagrimas  Park  with  its  Fonte  dos  Amour,  where 
lived  Inez  de  Castro,  sung  by  Camoens« 


436  OPORTO.  -  PAU. 

Oporto  {Hotel  Francfort;  Grand  Hotel;  H^tel  d^ 
Paris),  with  140,000  inhab.,  is  the  second  city  of  Por- 
tugal. It  is  built  on  2  hills,  and  the  valleys  which  ex- 
tend between  these  are  filled  with  charming  villas  and 
couutry-houses.  The  effect  of  the  Quintas,  or  Terraces, 
is  quite  delightful.  The  Cathedral,  or  La  Se,  is  not 
especially  striking.  The  town  is  divided  into  3  quar- 
ters, the  oldest  of  which,  San  Martmho,  has  but  little  of 
importance.  The  Royal  Hospital,  the  Ch.  Bos  Cleri- 
gos  (with  its  high  tower),  the  elegant  theatre,  the  great 
barracks,  the  Episcopal  Palace,  the  Ch.  of  Our  Lady  oj 
Lapa,  where  the  heart  of  Emperor  Dom  Pedro  I V.  is 
preserved,  and  the  interior  of  the  Ch.  of  S.  Francisco  ; 
also  the  libraries,  65,000  vols.,  the  Exchange,  and  the 
Museum,  merit  brief  attention.  Oporto  is  a  thriving 
commercial  town.  Erom  Lisbon  to  Foora  it  is  72  M. ; 
fares  3,120  r.,  2,390  r.,  1,610  r. 

Evora  is  a  highly  fortified  city  of  12,000  inhab.,  in 
the  midst  of  beautiful  fields  filled  with  orange,  olive, 
and  fig  groves.  Many  Homan  antiquities  here.  Erom 
Lisbon  a  rly.  runs  to  Faro,  169|-  M. 

Faro,  on  the  S.  coast  of  Portugal,  is  a  small  town  of 
10,000  mhab.,  with  a  good  cathedral ;  fine  military  hos- 
pital, large  and  well-built  streets,  and  an  excellent  port. 
Just  opposite  it,  in  the  Atlantic  Ocean,  is  a  small  group 
of  islands. 

Erom  Bayonne  it  is  65f  M.  (fares,  13  fr.,  9  fr.*  75  c. 
7fr.  20c.)to 

Pau  {Hotel  Oassion,  a  splendid  edifice ;  Bellevue; 
Splendide;  Be  France;  Beau  Sejour;  de  la  Poste; 
Cirand  Hotel;  delaPaix;  deVFurope.  Pensions: 
Colbert;  Hattersley.  Restaurants:  Gassion,  Com- 
merce, de  la  Borade),  with  29,000  inhab.,  is  one  of  the 
most  important  towns  in  the  lower  Pyrenees,  and  is  a 
favorite  winter  resort  because  of  its  delicious  climate. 


FRANCE.  437 

Tjiie  is  rather  expensive  at  Pan,  but  there  are  a  great 
number  ot  strangers  there  yearly;  abundance  of 
beautifally  lurniohed  apartments  to  be  had.  The 
town  IS  divided  into  2  parts  by  the  little  brooklet 
called  the  Grave,  over  which  there  are  5  bridges.  The 
Castle  of  Henri  IV.  (open  dailv  except  Mon.  from 
10  to  noon  and  from  2  to  4  p.m.),  near  Pau,  is  well 
worth  visiting.  Magnificent  Flemish  tapestries  made 
by  order  of  Francis  L,  in  the  great  Hall  of  the  States. 
The  Ch.  of  S.  Martin,  modern ;  the  Palace  of  Jus- 
tice; the  Museum  (open  Thurs.  and  Sun.,  from  1  to 
5,  free,  and  every  day  for  a  small  fee) ;  the  Place 
Roy  ale,  with  a  statue  of  Henri  IV.,  may  all  readily 
be  seen  in  a  few  hours.  From  Pau  24  M.  rly.  to 
Laruns,  thence  omnibus  to  Eaux-Bonnes  {Hotel  des 
Princes ;  He  France ;  Continental)  and  Haux- 
Chaudes.  The  former  town  receives  between  6  and 
10,000  invalids  and  tourists  annually;  vast  bathing 
establishments  here,  also  Casino,  concert  halls, 
theatre,  reading  rooms,  etc.  The  thermal  establish- 
ment at  'E&\i-x.-Qh.aM6.e%  {Hotel  Baudot;  He  France) 
Is  one  of  the  best  arranged  in  the  Pyrenees.  The 
waters  are  especially  successful  in  catarrh,  rheuma- 
lism,  and  skin  diseases.  For  full  description  of  this 
Pyrenean  bath  region  we  cannot  do  better  than  to 
refer  you  to  the  work  on  the  Pyrenees  by  Adolphe 
and  Paul  Joanne,  published  by  Hachette,  Paris. 

Cauterets  {Hotel  Continental;  He  France;  HAn- 
gteterr&t  Du  Pare)  may  be  reached  via  Pau  and 
TarDes.  There  are  24  springs  here  and  9  bathing 
establishments;  about  20,000  tourists  visit  Cauterets 
annually.  Beautiful  excursions  in  the  neighbor- 
hood.  Groing  N.,  after  leaving  Bayonne,  the  first 
place  of  importance  is 

Bordeaux  {Hotel  de  France;  I)e  Bayonne;  He 
Faisan;  Des  Princes  et  de  la  Paix;  Hes  Americains; 


438  BORDEAUX. 

ConfortaMe ;  Commercial),  with  256,000  inhab., 
a  beautiful  town  on  tlie  1.  bank  of  tlie  Garonne.  The 
city  takes  the  form  of  a  crescent,  which  it  bears  on  its 
coat  of  arms.  The  Garonne  River  here  is  very  wide  and 
deep,  and  navigable  for  nearly  all  classes  of  steamships. 
See  the  Bordeaux  bridge,  built  in  1819,  from  which 
admirable  view  of  the  river,  and  its  banks  lined  with 
palaces,  warehouses,  and  shops.  The  Place  de  la 
Comedie,  on  which  stands  a  great  theatre,  is  the  principal 
rendezvous  for  strangers.  All  the  principal  hotels  are 
in  this  neighborhood ;  but  the  largest  of  all  the  squares 
in  Bordeaux  is  the  Place  des  Quinconces.  Here  are 
the  Rostral  columns,  surmounted  by  statues  of  Com- 
merce and  Navigation.  There  are  also  marble  statues 
here  of  Montaigne  and  of  Montesquieu  ;  an  equestrian 
statue  of  Napoleon  III.,  which  stood  in  the  Tourny  alley, 
was  taken  down  in  1870.  The  oldest  monument  in 
Bordeaux  is  an  amphitheatre  called  the  Palais  Gallien. 
This  is  supposed  to  have  been  built  by  the  Romans,  in 
the  3d  century.  The  Cathedral  of  S.  Andre  was  con- 
secrated in  1090 ;  rebuilt  at  different  epochs  ;  and  is  now- 
being  restored.  Near  the  Cathedral  is  the  Bell  Toioer 
of  Pey-Berland,  so  called  after  the  Bishop  who  built  it, 
in  1440.  The  ch.  of  S.  Michel,  founded  1160,  belongs 
to  the  ogival  order.  It  also  has  an  isolated  bell 
tower.  The  ancient  ch.  of  S.  Croix  has  a  rich  fayade 
recently  restored.  The  Palace  of  Justice  has  numerous 
statues  of  noted  rrenchmen.  In  the  vestibule  of  the 
court  stands  a  statue  of  Montesquieu.  Many  of  the 
other  public  buildnigs  are  adorned  with  sculptures  and 
paintings.  The  great  Theatre  has  a  fine  vestibule  orna- 
mented  with  Ionic  columns.  It  was  in  this  theatre  that 
the  National  Assembly  held  its  sessions  in  1871,  and 
that  the  nation  resolved  to  make  peace  with  the  Prus- 
sians.     The   Museum,  founded   1803,  has   about  600 


FRANCE  439 

pictures  of  moderate  merit;  catalogue,  5o  c. ',  museum 
opeu  Suii.,  Moil.,  and  Tliurs.,  10-3  ;  other  days  small 
fee.  See  Library,  200,000  vols ,  the  Museum  of 
Antiquities  and  the  Museum  of  Natural  History, 
also  the  Bonie  Museum.  In  the  chapel  of  the 
Lycee,  on  the  Cours  des  Torres,  is  the  tomb  of  Mon- 
tesquieu. Bordeaux  is  a  very  important  commerciai 
port :  steam  navigation  with  South  America,  Russia, 
Holland,  Eugland  and  Ireland,  New  York,  and  New 
Orleans,  The  public  garden  is  a  pretty  promenade. 
The  watering-places  of  Bagneres  de  Bigorre  and  BagU' 
eres  de  Lmchon  may  both  be  couveniently  reached 
from  Bordeaux. 

From  Bordeaux  it  is  34f  M.  (fares,  4  fr.  65  c,  3  fr.  55 
c,  2  fr.  45  c.)  to 

Arcachon  (^Grand  Hotel ;  Legallais ;  De  France: 
Richelieu;  Jampj/).  This  is  a  charming  seaside  resort 
on  the  Bay  of  Biscay ;  and  in  the  pine  forest  which 
stretches  along  the  coast  are  a  great  number  of  winter 
villas.  The  Casino  is  a  charming  palace  with  Moresque 
cupolas  and  minarets.  About  100,000  persons  visit 
Arcachon  annually.  From  Bordeaux  it  is  159^  M, 
(time,  5 1  hrs.,  fares,  3i  fr.  65  c,  23  fr.  75  c,  17  fr, 
40  c.)   to 

Towloxxse  {Hotel  Tioollier  ;  T)e  T Europe  ;  Souville), 
with  147,000  inhab.  This  is  the  old  capital  of  Lan- 
guedoc,  on  the  r.  bank  of  the  Garonne.  There  is  but 
little  of  interest  to  the  tourist  here  except  the  Cathedral 
of  St.  Etietine  and  the  Museum  (founded  1792)  of  an- 
tiquities, pictures,  and  plaster  casts.  From  Bordeaux 
to  Paris  it  is  35  8|  M. ;  time,  about  9  hrs.  by  express ; 
fares,  72  fr.  5  c.,  54  fr.  5  c,  39  fr.  65  c.  You  pass 
through  Angouieme,  Poitiers,  Tours,  and  Orleans. 

Angouleme  {Hotel  du  Palais;  de  France),  on  the 
Charunte,  is  an  old  town  built  on  a  rocky  hill,  and  has  a 


440  VICHY.  —  AIX-LES-BAINS. 

fine  Gothic  Cathedral,  Theatre^  a  Cabinet  of  Natural 
History,  and  a  good  Library, 

Poitiers  {Hotel  du  Palais  ;  I)e  V Europe  ;  De  France'^ 
is  near  the  river  Ciain.  Its  finest  square  is  the  Place 
d'Armes.  Catliedral  in  Goiliic  style,  with  very  lofty 
halls.  Interesting  ch,  of  S.  Hilaire,  also  the  Byzantine 
Notre  Dame  ;  many  Roman  antiquities  here  ;  Palace  of 
Justice,  vi^ith  room  much  like  Westminster  Hall  in 
I^ondon.  The  English  held  this  town  300  years.  4  Mo 
from  Poitiers  is  the  battle-field  where  the  Black  Prince 
defeated  the  French  under  John,  in  1356. 

Orleans  and  Tours,  see  pages  197-198. 

Two  of  the  most  celebrated  of  French  summer- 
resorts  are  Vichy  and  Aix-les-Bains,  both  of  which  are 
easily  reached  from  Lyons. 

Vichy  {Hotel  des  Ainbassadeiirs ;  Bu  Cherhourg . 
Du  Pare  ;  Des  Princes;  Momhrun;  De  Richelieu;  Di 
Louvre)  is  on  the  banks  of  the  Allier,  in  a  pretty  valley 
enclosed  in  an  amphitheatre  of  hills.  It  is  the  most 
popular  watering-place  in  Prance,  Wonderful  cures  of 
gout  and  rheumatism  are  reported  from  Vichy.  Bath- 
ing season  begins  May  1  and  ends  October  1.  The  old 
town,  with  its  ruined  walls  and  ancient  towers,  is 
striking.  Most  of  the  hotels  are  around  or  near  the 
old  Park,  at  one  end  of  which  is  the  bathing  establish- 
ment, and  at  the  other  the  Casino. 

Aix-les-Bains  (^Grand  Hotel  d'Aix  ;  De  V Europe  ; 
Bernascon  et  Regijia ;  Du  Centre ;  International; 
Du  Nord  et  Grande  Bretagne)  is  a  very  popular 
watering-place  in  Savoy,  8  M.  from  Chambery ;  9  sul- 
phur springs  here  effect  important  cures.  See  Roman 
remains ;  Casi7io,  Baths;  English  Ch.  Beautiful  ex- 
cursions to  source  of  the  Marlizo;  to  the  Abbey  of 
Haute  Combe,  where  are  the  tombs  of  the  House  of 
Savoy ;  to  the  Nivolet;  to  the  Mollard  Garden;  to 
the  Cascade;  to  Gresy;  and  to  the  An^iecy. 


COPENHAGEN.  441 


A  TOUR  IN  THE   NORTH. 

FROM  Hamburg,  in  Germany  (see  page  239), 
3'^ou  may,  if  time  permits,  make  a  tour  of  great 
interest  in  the  North.  We  will  for  the  present  con- 
tent ourselves  with  briefly  laying  down  some  skeleton 
routes  for  a  short  journey  through  portions  of  Den- 
mark, Norway,  Sweden,  and  Russia.  You  may  begia 
vour  trip  by  going  to  the  chief  city  in  Denmark.  From 
Hamburg  to  the  German  naval  depot  of  Kiel  it  is 
3  hrs.  by  rail;  from  Kiel  to  Korsor  by  steamer  5 
hrs. ;  and  from  Korsor  it  is  2|  hrs.  to  Copenhagen. 
Or  you  may  go  all  the  way  by  rail  from  Hamburg  to 
Copenhagen,  by  Schleswig,  220  M.,  in  124-  hrs.  (fares, 
28  k.  95  o.,  21  k.  10  5.). 

Practical  Information.  —  The  money  in  Denmark, 
Norway,  and  Sweden  is  reckoned  in  krone  (k.)  and 
ore,  or  0re  (5.).  There  are  100  o.  in  1  k. ;  90  ore=:l  shil- 
ling. —  Steamboat  schedules  are  frequently  altered  ; 
remember  this  in  making  plans.  —  The  best  season  for 
travelling  in  these  countries  is  from  June  to  mid-Sep- 
tember.—  For  a  journey  to  the  North  Cape,  select  June 
or  July.  —  T\i.Q  fjords  of  the  Western  Coast  of  Norway 
should  be  seen  if  possible.  See  Baedeker,  and  an  ex- 
cellent Guide  du  Voi/ageur,  published  in  Stockholm,  for 
detailed  trips. 

Copenhagen  {Phoenix;  King  of  Denmark ;  D^ An- 
gleterre;  Ilonopol;  Dagmar;  National),  409,000  inh., 
stands  upon  the  E.  coast  of  Zealand,  and  is  enclosed 
in  a  line  of  fortifications,  now  used  as  a  promenada. 
The  panorama  of  batteries,  docks,  stores,  and  arsenals, 
as  seen  from   the   sea,  is   quite   imposing.     The   E» 


443  COPENHAGEN^ 

part  of  the  harbor  is  protected  by  the  Castle  of 
Frederikshavn.  Part  of  the  city  is  built  on  the  small 
Island  of  Amager,  and  is  called  G hristianshavn. 
The  channel  between  the  two  islands  forms  the 
port.  Copenhagen  has  a  great  number  of  palaces 
and  public  buildings,  and  2  to  3  days  may  well  be 
spent  in  inspecting  the  art  collections.  The  royal 
residences  are  quite  numerous.  Amalienborg,  the 
chief  house  of  the  royal  family,  consists  of  four 
small  palaces.  That  next  to  the  Colonnade  is  the 
king's;  the  second  is  the  Foreign  Office;  the  third 
contains  state  apartments;  the  fourth  pertains  to 
the  crown  prince.  Bronze  Statue  of  Frederick  T. 
in  the  square.  The  JRoyal  Chapel  faces  the  ruins  ol 
the  Christiansborg  Palace,  burned  down  in  1884. 
The  handsome  3-towered  Gothic  Rosenborg  GastU 
is  in  the  centre  of  the  King's  garden.  There  see 
Chronological  collection  of  the  Danish  Kings — - 
rooms  dedicated  to  each  king,  and  filled  with  relics 
of  his  life  and  deeds.  The  Audience  Chamber  of 
Christian  IV,  ;  the  golden  cups ;  the  bedroom  in 
■which  Christian  IV.  died,  in  1648  ;  the  Marble 
Hall ;  the  beautiful  room  called  the  Rose ;  and 
the  Turret  Chamber  are  the  other  curiosities. 
■  Observatory  near  this  palace.  FrederiTcsberg  Pal- 
'ace  (now  a  military  school)  is  1  M.  out,  in  a  beau- 
tiful park.  Zoological  Gardens  near  by.  In  the 
Vor-Frue-Kirke  (Ch.  of  Our  Lady)  are  famous  sculp- 
tures by  Thorwaldsen ;  and  in  an  alcove  his  coffin 
was  placed  at  the  funeral,  while  the  royal  family 
stood  bareheaded  round  it„  See  Thorwaldsen's  Bap- 
tismal Font;  also  two  bas-reliefs — the  Baptism  of 
Christ  and  the  Last  Supper.  The  Art  Museum  con- 
tains a  fine  collection  of  modern  Danish  paintings  « 
and  sculptures  (not  Thorwaldsen's),  and  also  a  num-  ■ 
ber  by  older  artists,  being  especially  rich  in  examples  ' 
of  the  Rembrandt  school.  The  Old  Glyptothek  and 
the  New  Glyptothek  contain  very  valuable  collectiaus 
«if  fencient  and  modern  sculpture  respectively. 


COPENHAGEN.  443 

The  greatest  curiosity  in  Copenhagen  is  Tliorwald- 
sen's  Museum,  built  by  subscription  to  contain  casts 
of  all  his  works  and  many  originals  (daily  11-3;  on 
Mon.,  Tues.,  Thurs.,  Sat.  adm.  50  5.;  catalogues  at 
hotels  and  museum).  Here  also  is  the  tomb  of  the 
great  sculptor.-  In  the  Prindsens-Palaisisthe'Na- 
tional  Museum,  containing  the  Danish  Collection 
(prehistoric  and  historic)  of  northern  antiquities,  the 
Ethnographic  Collection,  and  the  Collection  of  An- 
tiquities, Open  daily,  except  Monday,  12  or  1  to  3. 
Visitors  should  see  the  Arsenal,  close  to  the  Chris- 
tiansborg  Palace  (open  Wed.,  1-3).  Hoy al  Library 
(550.000  vols.)  close  by.  Beautiful  new  equestrir'i 
statue  in  bronze  opposite  the  palace. 

The  Exchange,  the  Museum  of  Natural  History,  the 
Universit!/,  Library,  the  CIi.  of  the  Trinity,  with  its 
famous  Round  Tower  (built  by  Christian  IV.),  Count 
Moltke's  collection  of  pictures  (Wed.,  12-2),  and  the 
pretty  theatres  are  enough  to  keep  visitors  busily  oc- 
cupied for  a  week.  — -Near  Copenhagen  is  Charlotten- 
lund,  a  country  house,  inhabited  in  summer  by  some 
member  of  the  royal  family.  Prel  ty  drives  hereabouts. 
Trolley  to  Deer  Par^,  royal  preserve,  filled  with  vast 
herds  of  stags,  red  deer,  and  fallow  deer;  and  to  Hurs- 
holni,  where  once  stood  a  superb  palace  built  by  Chris' 
tian  VL  Not  far  away  is  the  Island  of  Hveen,  where 
the  astronomer  Tycho  Brahe  resided. 

Sentimental  travellers  may  wish  to  visit  Elsinore 
ifjresund  Hotel),  30  M  I'rom  Copenhagen,  easily 
reached  by  rail  in  fifty  minutes.  The  Castle  and 
the  Cathedral  are  the  chief  sights.  Marienlyst,  N.  of 
the  town,  is  a  sea-bathing  establishment.  Here  on  a 
terrace  among  some  trees  is  shown  a  mound,  called  the 
grave  of  Hamlet  (see  Murray's  "  Denmark  ") .  Hamlet's 
identification  >rith  this  spot  is  founded  on  very  sbghi 


444  ELSINORE.  —  MALMO. 

proof.  Near  Elsinore  is  Qurre,  a  famous  residence  of 
many  Danish  kings.  RoesMlde  was  the  most  impor- 
tant town  in  Denmark,  and  remained  a  royal  residence 
from  the  10th  to  the  15th  century.  The  Cathedral  is 
the  finest  building  of  its  kind  in  Denmark.  In  its  N. 
aisle,  Saxo  Grammaticus,  the  chronicler,  is  buried. 

From  Elstnore  it  is  not  far  to  Fredensborg,  where 
the  Danish  Royal  Family  has  its  reunions.  Carriage 
drive  thence  (1  hour,  4  k.)  to  castle  of  Fredrichsborg, 
built  by  Christian  II  in  1620.  Here  is  interesting 
historical  museum  (daily,  9.30-4  and  5-7,  1  k.).  Five 
mm.  to  Hillerod  {Hotel  Leidersdorf),  whence  railway 
in  1  hr.  back  to  Copenhagen. 

From  Copenhagen,  those  persons  who  do  not  wish 
to  visit  Norway  can  go  by  steamer  four  times  daily 
in  1^  hrs.  (16  M.)  to  Malmo  {Krdmer''s  Hotel; 
Hotm),  on  the  Swedish  coast,  and  thence  by  rly. 
in  sixteen  hrs.  (one  through  express  daily;  fares, 
52  k.  5  0.5  35  k.  65  o.)  to  the  Swedish  capital, 
jStockholmo  Malmo  (55,000  inhab.)  was  during  the 
iianseatic  period  the  chief  commercial  town  on  the 
SouuL.  ^othwell,  Mary  Stuart's  third  husband,  was 
inipriso''.ed  in  the  castle  here,  1573-78.  Charles  XV. 
died  here.  On  the  way  to  Stockholm  you  pass  through 
7mnd  {Stadshuset ;  Grand  Hotel),  where  is  the  finest 
j,.tithedral  in  Scandinavia,  founded  in  the  11th  century. 
&e  old  University  buildings  here ;  and  near  the  Cathe- 
dral a  Statue  of  Tegner,  who  composed  many  of  his 
poems  at  Lund.  His  study  is  shown  to  visitors. 
Linkoping  {Stora  Hotellef)  also  has  a  noble  ch.,  built 
1150-1499.     Notice  Norrkoping,  near  Stockholm. 


GOTHENBURG.  —  CHRISTIANIA.  445 


NORWAY. 

One  may  go  from  Copenhagen  to  Christian ia  by 
sea  (semi-weekly  steamers  touching  at  Gothenburg). 
The  fares  are  low,  but  the  boats  are  small  and  not 
always  clean,  and  the  sea  is  very  rough;  time,  36  hrs. 
The  best  way  is  to  go  by  rail  via  Elsinore  (ferry  40 
mill.);  time,  19  hours. 
i  ■     Gothenburg  {liaghmd's;  Gota  Kdllare;  d^ Angle- 
\   terre)   is  a  busy  and  pleasant  commercial  town  of 
i   125,000  Inh. ,  on  the  Grotaelf .  Excellent  harbor,  rarely 
closed  by  ice.     The  first  impulse  given  to  Gothenburg 
was  during  the  continental  blockade,  when  it  formed 
'  the  depot  of  English  trade   with  Northern   Europe. 
I  The  'Exchange,  the  Town  Kail,  the  Christina JcT/rka,  the 
I  Statue  of  Gwstavus  Adolphus,  the  Museum  (open  daily), 
I  the  Slottsskog  Park,  with  fine  view,  and  the  pretty 
(  garden  of  the  Horticultural  Society  with  hothouse 
I  and  exotic  plants  near  the  Wallgraf,  comprise  the 
i  chief  features  of  the  town.      Those  who  wish  to  go 
-  from  Gothenburg  to  Stockholm  by  the  steamer  can 
I  do  so  (Tues.,  Fri.,  Sat.;  fares,  25,  17,  and  12  k.). 
Christiania  (Grand;  Victoria;  Skandinavie;  Bri' 
tannia;  £oulevard),th.e  capital  of  Norway, has  200,000 
inhab.     Steamships  from  London,  Holland,  Hamburg, 
etc..  land  their  passengers  on  the  two  quays  near  the 
Custom  House  (porterage  from  the  steamer,  30-40  5. ; 
cabs  to  the  hotel,  40,  60,  80  5.)      Christiania  is  charm- 
ingly situated  at  the  N.  end  of  a  fjord.     It  was 
founded    by    (and   named    for)    Christian    IV    m 
1624.     The  city  has  taken  on  new  life  and  greater 
importance    since    the    establishment    of    Norway 
as    an    independent    kingdom.      The     University, 
National  Picture  Gallery,  Observatory,  and  Royal 
Palace  will  occupy  the  attention  for  a  day.     E.  of  the 


446  CHRISTIANIA  AND  SUBURBS. 

market-place  is  the  Ch.  of  Our  Saviour,  consecrated  in 
1697,  restored  in  1849.  Near  this  edifice  is  the  famous 
Steam  Kitchen  for  the  poor  classes,  where  economical 
dinners  are  cooked  for  2,000  people  daily.  The  Theatres, 
the  Freemasons'  Lodge,  the  Akershus,  the  Fortress  (many 
centuries  old),  are  all  within  an  easy  walk  of  each  other. 
The  Akershus  was  besieged  by  Duke  Eric  of  Sweden  in 
1310,  and  in  1716  by  the  famous  Charles  XII.,  who 
was  signally  defeated  a  little  later  by  the  Norwegian 
naval  hero  Tordenskjold.  Good  views  fi'om  the  ram- 
parts. See  the  Mdsvolds  Plads,  the  pretty  square 
planted  with  trees,  E.  of  which  is  the  Farliament  Edifice. 
This  has  a  handsome  fapade,  flanked  with  granite  lions 
(fee  to  enter).  The  summer  session  ends  in  June. 
The  National  Gallery  (Sunday,  Tuesday,  Wednes- 
day, Thursday,  Friday,  12-3,  free;  at  other  times, fee) 
was  founded  in  1837,  and  contains  400  pictures. 
The  Trinity  Ch.,  the  Gamle  Akers  Kirke, — the  oldest 
ch.  in  Christiania,  founded  in  the  11th  century,  —  the 
monument  to  Wergeland,  the  most  famous  of  Nor- 
wegian  poets,  and  tVs  view  from  St.  Johns  Hill  should 
not  be  forgotten,  in  the  University,  founded  1811, 
there  are  numerous  collections  of  interest.  It  has  1,000 
students,  and  a  library  of  250,000  vols.  The  Royal 
Palace  is  a  large  plain  edifice,  with  handsome  portico, 
on  a  hill  in  the  Slots  Park.  The  Festal  Hall,  the 
Throne  Room,  and  Audience  Chamber  are  beautifully 
adorned.  In  front  is  an  equestrian  Statue  of  Charles 
XJV.  The  Historical  Museum  contains  a  very  in- 
teresting collection  of  coins,  Viking  ships,  etc.  The 
Norsk  Folks  Museum  (daily  except  Wed.  and  Sat.) 
and  the  Art  Industrial  Museum  (daily  except  Sat.) 
are  the  only  other  important  sights. 

Suburbs. — See  Oscarshall  (tickets  and  information 
free  at  the  hotels),  a  castle  built  for  King  Oscar  in 
1847,  with  works  of  Swedish  and  Norwegian  artists. 


THRONDHJEM.  447 

Noble  view  from  the  roof.  Take  trolley  (50  6.)  to 
Holmenkollen ;  good  restaurant  and  fine  view.  Also 
visit  the  Ekeberg. 

There  is  direct  steam  communicatioii  between  Uhrii- 
tiania  and  Hidl,  3  days  ;  London,  4  days  ;  Havre, 
4  days ;  Hamburg,  36  hrs. ;  Lub^ck,  48  hrs. ;  ad 
twice  a  month  to  New  York. 

\  Brief  Excursions  in  Norway. 

I        Cireneral   Notes.  —  Oa  all  the  fjords,  and  along  the 
coast  of  Norway,  there  are  excellent  steamboat   lines,   and 
I  travel  in  this  way  is   comparatively   cheap.      The   food  is 
j  usually  good.     Beer  is  the  national  drink.     The  rigid  tem- 
I  perance  laws  of  Noi' way  make  it  impossible  to  obtain  spirits 
I  on  the  steamboats  or  at  moet  of  the  principal  railway  restau- 
j  rants.     On  the  lakes  there  is  usually  a  service  3  times  a  day. 
'  All  Norway  is  covered  with  a  network  of  excellent  routes  ; 
and  there  are  few  more  pleasant  ways  of  travelling  than  in 
!  the  post-chaise  among  the  mountains  and  beside  the  fjords, 
'  if  the  traveller  be  prudent  enough  to  look  out  for  his  relays 
of  horses.     It  is  only  on  the  most  frequented   routes  that 
one  can  get  carriages  and  horses  to  make  a  long  journey. 
The  driver  generally  takes  care  of  himself  and  his  horses  for 
a  fixed  sum.     Carriages  can  carry  8  or  4  persons,  with  bag- 
gage.    The  relay  service  is  veiy  well  arranged,  and  there 
will  be  no  occasion  for  complaint  if  you  always  send  a  tele- 
gram ahead.     The  charges  for  the  horses,  and  carriages  are 
by  the  mile,  and  are  moderate.     On  the  lakes  the  rowers 
also  work  for  a  fixed  tariif.     The  amount  of  baggage  is  also 
determined  by  regulation. 

Throndhjem  {Britannia;  cT Angleterre ;  Grand ^ 
Scandinavie),  the  ancient  Nidaros^  and  the  third  city 
in  Norway,  has  34,000  inhab.  Here  Norwegian  kings 
were  crowned  in  the  Middle  Ages.  Formerly  the  capi- 
tal  of  the  kingdom;  and  its  cathedral  (open  daily,  free, 
13-1),  the  finest  in  the  North,  was  onc(»-  a  great  resort 


448  BERGEN.  —  HAMMERFEST. 

for  pilgrims.  It  is  built  of  a  bluisli  chlorite  slate,  with 
which  the  marble  columns  form  an  admirable  contrast. 
In  the  lltli  and  12th  centuries  this  ch.  was  the  buriaL 
place  of  the  kings  ;  and  here  Charles  XIY.,  Oscar  I.^ 
Charles  XV.,  and  Oscar  II.  were  crowned.  You  may 
go  from  Christiania  to  Throndhjem  bj  rail,  but  the  jour- 
ney is  tedious,  and  we  recommend  the  carriage  route, 
or  the  steamboat  voyage  around  the  coast. 

From  Christiania  to  Bergen  is  a  favorite  excursion. 
On  the  Strandefjord  is  the  noted  Fagernces  Hotel,  a 
great  resort  for  tourists.  Bergen  {Holdfs;  Norge; 
S^nehy)  is  on  a  hilly  peninsula  and  isthmus,  with 
handsome  high  mts.  in  the  background.  The  town 
(70,000  inhab.)  was  founded  by  King  OJaf  in  1070.  on 
the  site  of  an  old  royal  residence.  Many  great  battles 
have  been  fought  in  its  neighborhood.  See  Bergenhus, 
Nygaards  Park,  and  Fislimarket  (on  Wed.  and  Sat., 
8-10  A.M.),  The  Museums  have  very  good  collections. 
Tlie  best  view  of  the  town  is  from  the  Tldifjeid,  N.E. 
of  tlie  harbor.  The  overland  route  from  Bergen  to 
M.olde  is  interesting  for  leisurely  tourists. 

Another  good  excursion  \s>from  Christiania  to  Kongs- 
berg,  the  Falls  of  Rjukan,  the  Hardangerfjord,  and  to 
Bergen.  Still  anotlier  is  from  Cliristiania  to  Vadso^ 
along  ^1\Q  coast.  Erom  Yadso,  those  who  have  time 
may  push  on  to  Hammerfest  {Jansen^s  Hotel),  the 
most  northern  city  ia  the  world.  It  is  built  along  the 
shores  of  a  httle  bay,  protected  by  a  peninsula  from 
the  fury  of  the  N.  winds.  Pror  a  mountain  in  the 
neighborhood  there  is  an  extc^dive  view  over  the 
glaciers  of  Sejiand  and  S6r5.  Hence  travellers  can 
usually  see  the  midnight  sun  in  midsummer.  Those 
who  wish  to  visit  the  North  Cape  should  remember 
that  the  sole  attraction  of  the  journe}''  consists  in  the 
bleakness   and  solemnity  of  the  scenery.     A  steamer 


STOCKHOLM  449 

usually  leases  Hamburg  on  Monday  morning,  arriving 
at  Vadso  Wednesday  afternoon  and  at  Hammerfest 
on  fedturday  evening. 

SWEDEN. 

You  may  go  'by  rail  direct  from  Christian ia  to  Stock- 
holm, in  5  bours  to  Charlottenberg  on  the  Swedish 
frontier,  the*ice  in  about  14  hours  to  Stockholm ; 
through  express  trains  without  change  in  17  hours 
(fares,  43  k.  #5  o. ,  33  k.  50  o. ;  on  slow  trains  a  little 
less;  sleeping  cars  5  k.  and  3  k.  extra). 

StoclLholTh  {Grand  Hotel;  Rydherg;  Kung  Karl; 
Kung  Karls  Sn7iex;  Continental;  in  the  old  town, 
Osiergotland) .  Good  restaurants  m  piincipal  hotels. 
In  the  soui:hern  fauborg,  Peligan ;  fine  view  over 
Stockholm  an-i  its  environs.  Good  music  at  Blanch's 
Cafe,  Bern's  iSalonger,  and  the  Stromparterre 
every  evening.  The  principal  bank,  Riksbanken, 
at  Jern  Torgct.  Population,  307,000.  Sea  com- 
munication with  Stettin,  Lubeck,  Copenhagen,  Am- 
sterdam, London,  St.  Petersburg,  Bordeaux  and 
Finland,  by  comfortable  steamships  and  boats.  Taxo- 
meter  cabs,  1-2  persons,  50  o.  per  kilometre,  each  ad- 
ditional 3^  kilometre  10  o. ;  trunk  from  rly.  station 
20  o  ;  fares  higher  after  11  p.m.  Trip  to  suburbs  at 
moderate  rates.  There  is  an  excellent  electric  tram- 
car  system  (10  o.)  The  capital  of  Sweden  is  situated 
on  tne  banks  of  Lake  Malar,  where  it  empties  into 
the  Baltic  Sea.  and  occupies  two  peninsulas  and  many 
islands,  joined  by  handsome  bridges.  Old  travelers 
say  that  Stockholm's  situation  is  the  most  beauti- 
ful in  Eu?-ope,  aftsT  that  of  C(mstantinople,  The 
city  is  divided  into  six  parts:  the  Staden,  or 
city,  formed  by  the  islands  of  Stadsholmen,  Rid- 
darholmen,  and  Helgeandsholmen,  the  narrowest 
,and  least  agreeable  part  of  Stockholm,  but  the  most 


450      PRINCIPAL  SIGHTS  IN  STOCKHOLM. 

animated,  and  the  commercial  centre;  Norrmalm.,  tlie 
N.  section,  with  the  island  of  Blasieholmen;  Ladugdrds- 
landet,  a  qfiarter  built  in  the  reign  of  Queen  Christina; 
Kungsholmen  (King's  Island) ;  Sodermalm,  the  S.  fau- 
bourg; and  Saltsjo-Oarne,  composed  of  four  islands. 
The  oldest  chroniclers  give  to  the  town  the  name  which 
it  bears  to-day,  —  stock  signifying  straight,  and  holme, 
island.  See  local  guide  at  bookstores  for  the  romantic 
legends  connected  with  the  origin  of  Stockholm.  Tine 
views  from  the  Mosebacke ;  from  Kastellholmen  ;  from 
the  Observatory ;  from  the  Tower  of  Jacob's  Ch. ;  from 
Bystrbm^s  Villa  ;  and  from  the  TidoU. 

Principal  Sights.  ^ — In  the  city  Staden:  ^%  Royal 
Falace,  —  burned  in  1697,  and  rebuilt  in  1753,  —  one  of 
the  finest  in  Europe,  on  an  eminence  close  to  junction 
of  lake  and  sea.  Yast  panorama  from  the  terrace. 
View  of  the  city  and  the  innumerable  bits  of  water,  the 
majestic  mountains,  forests,  and  green  plains.  Cost  of 
palace,  10,500,000  k.  See  the  N.  fa9ade  and  the  Gus- 
iavus  Adolphus  Place.  Here  is  the  Lejonsbacken,  a  stair- 
case ornamented  with  huge  bronze  lions.  The  front 
portico  is  decorated  with  the  Swedish  arms,- — 3  bronze 
crowns,  supported  by  a  figure  of  Henown.  The  S.,  W., 
and  E.  fapades  have  beautiful  works  of  art.  The  chapel, 
128  ft.  long  by  50  ft.  wide,  has  fine  marble  columns 
and  richly  decorated  walls.  The  pulpit,  sculptured 
and  gilded,  is  supported  by  the  4  symbols  of  the  Evan- 
gelists,— the  angel,  eagle,  lion,  and  ox.  The  altar-piece 
represents  Jesus  at  Gethsemane.  The  Hall  of  State, 
143  ft.  long,  51  ft.  wide,  is  by  Tessin.  See  silver  throne 
given  to  Queen  Christiua  by  Magnus  Gabriel;-  and 
statues  of  Gustavus  II.  and  Charles  XIY.  by  Bystrom. 
Here  the  king  opens  and  closes  the  Diet  in  presence  of 
the  two  chambers  of  the  kingdom.  The  interior  of  the 
palace  is  visible  all  the  year;  small  fee.    See  the  cere- 


STOCKHOLM.  451 

monial  h alls  where  great  festivals  are  held:  Audience 
Chamber ;  fine  ceiling  by  Fouquet;  magnificent  caude- 
hibra,  29  ft.  high ;  two  porcelains  :  Red  Room,  where 
Gustavus  III.  slept  (many  marble  statues  here)  :  great 
gallery,  162  ft.  long ;  wonderful  collection  of  sculp- 
tures ;  mythological  frescos :  two  smaller  rooms,  de- 
voted to  pictures  of  battles  :  a  second  gallery  and  two 
rooms  devoted  to  allegf)ries  of  Peace;  Festival  Hall, — 
sometimes  called  the  White  Sea,  —  with  richly  painted 
ceilings  Victoria  Hall,  the  Hall  of  the  Columns,  and 
the  present  king's  and  queen's  apartments  :  Library 
very  rich ;  Museum  of  Armour  and  Costumes,  a  good 
collection.  On  the  great  square,  S»  of  the  palace, 
is  an  obelisk,  erected  in  1799,  in  memory  of  the 
fidelitv  of  the  citizens  of  Stockholm  during  the  war 
of  1788-1790  against  the  Russians.  Near  the  port, 
statue  of  Gustavus  III.  Behind  the  obelisk  is  the 
Church  of  St.  Nicholas,  founded  m  1260  or  1264, 
reconstructed  1726-43,  restored  1892;  a  spire  308  ft. 
high;  interior  divided  into  6  naves  by  rows  of  columns; 
altar-piece  in  ivory,  silver,  and  ebony,  representing  the 
birth  of  the  Saviour  ;  organ  one  of  the  largest  in  Swe- 
den ;  immense  stores  of  beautiful  silver  vessels  and 
candelabra ;  remarkable  funereal  monuments.  Oppo- 
site the  palace,  beyond  the  Slottsbacken,  is  the  House 
of  the  Qomriior  of  StocMiolm,  built  by  Tessin,  the  most 
celebrated  architect  of  Sweden,  who  formerly  owned  it. 
In  the  Stortorget,  or  great  square,  the  famous  Bath  of 
Blood,  as  it  is  called  in  Swedish  history, — the  execu- 
tion of  96  distinguished  citizens, opponents  of  Christian 
II.,  King  of  Denmark,  wiio  was  seeking  to  extend 
his  rule  over  Sweden, — toolv  place.  Hers  is  the 
Bourse,  built  in  1766;  fine  halls  in  the  first  story. 
.Near  by,  the  German  ch.  (1642),  with  tower  222  ft. 
high,  and  the  only  chime  of  bells  in  Sweden; 
injured  by  fire  in  1878,  but  restored.     Here  also  is 


4^^  STOCKHOLM. 

the  Knights  Hoiise  (1648),  one  of  the  finest  palaces  in 
Stockhohn  ;  noble  staircase ;  walls  decorated  with  the 
arms  of  all  the  nobility  of  Sweden.    Statue  of  Gustavu? 
Vasa  before  this  house,  erected  on  the  250th  anniver- 
sary of  the  entry  of  that  king  into  Stockholm.     The 
courts  of  justice  and  other  n'.iblic  buildings  are  not  fat 
away.    At  Sheppsbro,  the  port,  are  the  telegraph  office 
and   the    Custom  House.      The   Scanditiavian    Credit 
Bank  is  the  finest  modern  building  in  the  city.     The 
Gothic  Ch.  of  the  Knights'  Island  {liiddarholms-KyrkaT^ 
is  on  the  Riddarholmeu  Island,  to  tlie  W.  of  the  Eques- 
trian  Palace.      It   belonged  to  a  famous    Franciscan 
convent  founded  by  King  Magnus  Ladulas,   and  was 
reconstructed  in  1847.     It  is  192  ft.  long,  60  ft.  wide, 
and  the  tower  is  290  ft.  high.     It  is  noticeable  as  a 
Tnausoleum  of  celebrated   men  (local  guides  give  de. 
scription).     The  chief  tomb  is  that  of  the  Gustavus 
dynasty.     N.  of  the  choir  is  the  Charles  Chapel  (built 
1686-1743),  Mdth  maihle  sarcophagus  of  Charles  XII. 
Here  also  repose  Charles  X.,  Charles  XV.,  Frederick, 
and  many  others.     Ch.  open  Tues.  and  Thurs.  (also 
Sat.    in    summer)    12-2    p.m.  ;    fee,    25  o.      On   the 
Riddarhojm  are  also  tlie  Roi/ul  Cuurts  of  Justice,  the 
Cham,ber  of  Deputies,  \\\q  Royal  Archives,  and  the,  Statue 
of  Birger  Jarl.     Go  by  the  great  northern  bridge — ■ 
380  ft.  long,  in  granite,  built  in  1797  —  to  Relgeands- 
holm-en,  witli  its  pretty  gardens,  huge  bazaar,  and  royal 
stables. 

In  the  N.  section  {Norrmalm)  is  the  Gustavus  Adol- 
phtis  Place  and  statue,  pedestal  ornamented  with  re- 
liefs of  celebrated  Swedish  generals.  On  the  W., 
Palace  of  the  Croivn  Prince,  Opposite  is  Royai,  Opera 
Houae^  erected  on  site  of  theatre  where  Gustavus  III.  • 
was  killed  by  Ankarstrom.  E. ,  near  this  square,  is  the 


STOCKHOLM.  453 

Jacofs  Ch.  (1590).  The  S.  portal  is  very  rich  with  scnlp- 
tures  dating  from  1644.  The  poet  Kellgren  is  buried  here. 
To  the  E.  is  the  Charles  XII.  Place,  with  statue  of  Charles 
XII.  To  the  N.,  the  promenade  called  the  King''s  Garden, 
statue  of  Charles  XIII.  Pretty  theatre  and  fountain  near 
by.  In  the  Berzelius  Park,  statue  of  Berzelius,  the  father 
of  chemical  science.  E.  of  the  Charles  XII.  Place  is  the 
National  Museum  (open  daily  except  Mon.,  11-3 ;  Sun.,  1-3). 
On  the  ground  floor  is  the  Historical  Museum,  founded  in 
the  ITth  century,  and  one  of  the  largest  of  its  kind.  The 
Hall  of  the  Middle  Ages  is  especially  interesting.  On  the 
first  floor  are  collections  of  furniture  and  house  decora- 
tions, ceramics,  and  sculpture,  the  last  of  unusual  merit. 
On  the  upper  floor  is  the  picture  gallery,  in  which  the 
Italian,  German,  Flemish,  Spanish,  French,  Swedish, 
Norwegian,  and  Danish  schools  of  painting  are  well  repre- 
sented. From  the  National  Museum,  an  iron  bridge  leads 
to  the  Sheppsholm,  an  island  on  which  are  the  Karl- 
Johanskyrka,  the  Naval  Academy,  and  the  Naval  Arsenal. 
The  Academy  of  Fine  Arts  (1671)  is  in  the  Red  Shop 
Square.  The  CRara-Kyrka  (1285 ;  burned  1751 ;  rebuilt 
1753 ;  restored  1893)  is  very  interesting.  At  Kungsholmen 
are  many  hospitals  and  some  of  the  chief  manufactories. 
Also  the  Mint,  and  a  ch.  with  a  fine  altar-piece.  Not  far 
away  is  the  principal  military  school.  There  are  many 
other  interesting  things  in  the  city  quarter  (see  local 
guides).  The  Ch.  of  St.  John  should  be  seen.  In  the 
cemetery  of  the  latter.  Yon  Dobeln,  one  of  the  heroes  of 
the  last  war  against  the  Russians,  is  buried.  The  two 
principal  streets  of   Stockholm  are   the  Regents'  and 


454  UPSALA. 

Queen  Street,  —  in  Swedish,  Regeringsgatan  and  Broti- 
ninggatan.  The  Academy  of  Science,  the  Natural 
History  Museum,  tlie  Technological  Institute,  the  Mirb- 
ing  School,  and  the  Observatory  are  all  in  this  quarter. 

In  the  Ostermalm  quarter  are  the  Artillery 
Square  and  a  oh.  founded  in  1658,  remarkable  for  its 
acoustics.  Here  also  is  the  Royal  Library  of  200,000 
vols.,  founded  under  Charles  IX  (open  free  every  week- 
day, 10-3).  In  the  Sodermalm,  or  S.  faubourg,  is  the 
Karl  Johans  Place,  with  equestrian  statue  to  memory 
of  that  king.  Here  also,  in  the  Bormgatan,  48,  is  the 
house  which  Swedenborg  inhabited.  The  Katharina- 
Kyrka  is  on  the  spot  where  the  victims  of  the  Battle 
of  Blood  were  buried.  Fine  view  from  top  of  Soder- 
malm (elevator).  The  environs  of  Stockholm  are 
noted  lor  their  beauty,  especially  during  the  wonder- 
fully clear  nights  of  June  and  July.  The  Carlherg 
^nd  Drottningholm  should  be  visited,  and  especially 
the  Djurgard,  a  beautiful  park  on  an  island  2  M. 
long.  At  the  W.  end  of  thi^  island  is  the  Northern 
Museum,  a  large  collection  of  Scandinavian  curios- 
ities. Here  nearly  every  evening  in  summer  popular 
dances  in  national  costume  are  given  accompanied  by 
national  music.     No  one  should  fail  to  see  them. 

Upsala  {Stads-Hotellet ;  Svea;  gooa  restaur- 
ants), the  most  famous  university  town  in  Sweden 
(20,000  inhab.),  and  the  residence  of  the  archbishop 
and  other  dignitaries.  It  lies  on  both  banks  of  the 
Fyrisa,  which  is  crossed  by  5  bridges.  It  was  formerly 
called  Ostra-Aros,  and  when  the  Swedish  kings  resided 
at  Gamla  Upsala,  it  was  their  port.  It  is  the  historical 
and  intellectual  centre  of  Sweden,  and  its  mythical 
associations  are  of  the  greatest  interest.  Visit  the 
Gothic  Cathedral  (founded  1260),  situated  on  a  pictu- 
resque height.  Tlie  chief  curiosities  are  the  Burial 
Chapel  of  Gustavus  Vasa  (at  the  back  of  the  choir) , 
and  the  tomb  of  Linnceiis,  the  great  botanist. 


ABO.  —  HELSINGFOES.  455 

N.  of  this  cathedral  is  St.  Eric's  Spring,  said  to  have 
burst  forth  on  the  spot  where  the  saint  was  martyred. 
The  Ch.  of  the  Trinity  has  many  handsome  monuments. 
The  University  was  founded  in  1477.  Many  of  its 
edifices  are  very  striking  in  architecture.  The  library 
building  is  especially  fine.  The  Library  contains  200,000 
vols.,  and  7,000  MSS.  Here  is  the  famous  transla- 
tion of  the  four  Gospels  by  Bishop  Ulphilas,  dating 
from  the  second  half  of  the  4th  century.  The  House  of 
Linnceus  is  still  shown  in  Upsala.  In  the  cemetery  see 
monument  to  Geijer,  the  poet.  There  are  1,500  stu- 
dents at  the  University.  Numerous  -charming  excur- 
sions in  tlie  neighborhood.  A  pretty  excursion  is  from 
Upsala  to  Qefle  by  rail  in  %\  hrs,  (6  k.  85  o., 
4  k.  60  5.).  On  the  way  you  may  see  tlie  Castle, 
which  was  fortified  by  Gustavus  Vasa,  and  where 
Eric  XIV.  was  imprisoned  during  his  iusanity. 

We  will  not  attempt  to  give  other  excursions  in 
Sweden,  but  will  recounncnd  the  tourist  next  to  pro- 
ceed from  Stockholm  to  St.  Petersburg. 

RUSSIA. 

Steamers  sail  3  times  a  week  in  summer  from  Stock- 
holm to  St.  Petersburg  in  3-4  days,  stopping  at  Abo, 
the  old  capital  of  Pinland,  taken  from  the  Swedes  ia 
1809  by  the  Russians ;  Relsingfors,  one  of  the  strong- 
est of  naturally  fortified  harbors ;  and  Wyborg,  taken 
from  the  Swedes  by  Peter  the  Great  in  1710.  The 
beauty  of  the  hundreds  of  islands  through  which  the 
steamer  threads  its  way  renders  the  journey  a  constant 
pleasure.  The  Ahland  Islands  are  about  300  in  number. 
Shortly  after  the  steamer  enters  the  Gulf  of  Finland, 
the  dome  of  St.  Isaac's  Ch.  in  St.  Petersburg  ts  dis- 
tinctly visible       On  the  Way  up,  the  steamer  passes 


456  ST.  PETERSBURG. 

Cronstadt,  the  Russian  Empire's  chief  naval  station. 
It  is  defended  by  great  batteries  hewn  out  of  the  sohd 
rock,  and  has  extensive  docks.  The  fortifications  were 
begun  in  1703  by  Peter  the  Great,  and  have  beeir 
greatly  strengtliened  since.  The  approaching  seawara 
is  secured  by  the  erection  of  batteries  and  by  the  sink- 
ing of  ships.  An  excursion  can  be  made  in  one  day 
from  St.  Petersburg  to  Cronstadt,  Oranienbaum,  Peter- 
hof,  Strelna,  and  the  Monastery  of  St.  Sergius.  Oranien- 
baum is  a  palace,  built  in  1724,  confiscated  to  the  crown 
from  Mentchikoff's  estate.  It  commands  a  magnificent 
view.  The  Peterhof  Palace,  begun  in  1720  by  Leblond, 
under  the  direction  of  Peter  the  Great,  contains  innumer- 
able articles  of  vertu,  tapestries,  marbles,  porcelains, 
malachites,  portraits,  especially  a  collection  of  pictures 
of  feminine  beauties,  368  in  number,  collected  from  50 
Russian  provinces.  In  front  of  the  palace  is  a  fountain 
called  the  Samson.  There  are  two  small  palaces  near 
here,  of  which  Peter  the  Great  was  very  fond,  and  in 
that  of  Mont  Plaisir  he  died.  The  Hermitage,  Alex- 
andra, where  the  Emperor  lives  while  at  Peterliof,  and 
Strelna,  the  palace  of  the  Grand  Duke  Coustantine, 
are  in  this  neighborhood. 

St.  Petersburg  {.Hotel  d' Angleterre ;  De  JRussie ; 
DemoutUs  ;  Be  France  ;  cf  Europe)  is  the  capital  of  the 
Russian  Empire,  and  as  the  headquarters  of  the  official 
world  and  the  centre  of  Russian  society  must  always 
possess  a  certain  interest  for  the  traveler  (1,500,000 
inhab.).  The  common  supposition  that  it  is  not  wise  to 
visit  Russia  in  midsummer  is  founded  upon  a  mistake. 
The  Russian  summer  climate  is  extremely  soft  and  beau- 
tiful, and  the  iieat  is  never  so  intense  as  in  some  parts 
of  North  America.  Of  course,  the  social  world  is  not  so 
gay  as  in  winter,  but  the  tourist  who  expects  to  spend  but 
2  or  3  days  in  St.  Petersburg  will  hardly  care  about  this. 


ST.   PETERSBURG.  457 

The  city  was  founded  by  Peter  the  Great,  about  1703, 
and,  like  Madrid,  it  might  be  called  a  capital  with  malice 
aforethought ;  for  the  energetic  mouarch  set  it  down 
among  the  marshes  through  which  the  river  Neva  wan- 
ders towards  the  sea.  On  the  islands  in  the  channels 
of  the  divided  Neva  the  greater  part  of  the  city  is  built. 
The  Admiralty  Quarter,  so  called,  containing  the  public 
buildings,  is  on  the  mainland,  on  the  S.  bank  of  the 
Neva.  St.  Petersburg  is  in  many  respects  a  magnificent 
city,  although  the  contrasts  between  squalor  and  great 
splendor  are  sometimes  too  sharp  to  permit  of  an  agree- 
able impression.  When  the  town  was  building,  under 
Peter  the  Great,  40,000  or  50,000  peasants  were  em- 
ployed for  years  in  filling  up  the  marshes.  It  was  the 
Empress  Catherine  who  built  the  splendid  granite  quay 
along  the  Neva's  1.  bank.  The  river  has  overflowed  many 
times,  and  the  inundations  in  the  18th  century  and  in  the 
early  part  of  the  19th  were  very  disastrous.  The  or- 
dinary tourist  will  find  that  the  difl&culties  concerning 
passports,  police  supervision,  etc.,  have  been  greatly 
exaggerated,  and  if  he  is  not  a  Nihilist  he  will  not  be 
much  troubled.  A  passport  is,  however,  exacted  on  en- 
tering Russia,  and  has  to  be  delivered  up  to  the  hotel 
proprietor  for  registration,  and  he  hands  it  to  you  on 
leaving  the  hotel.  The  city  is  divided  into  13  quarters, 
the  Admiralty  being  the  principal  one.  From  the  Ad- 
miralty three  great  streets  branch  off.  They  are  called 
the  Vosnessensky  J  the  Gorokhooaia,  ending  at  the  Champs 
de  Mars ;  and  the  fauious  Nevsky  Prospect,  where  are 
the  most  elegant  of  the  shops  and  many  of  the  chs.  and 
public  buildings. 

The  Cathedral  of  our  Lady  of  Kazan,  in  the  Nevsky 
Prospect,  begun  under  Alexander  I.,  and  consecrated  in 
1811,  is  the  metropolitan  church  of  St.  Petersburg.  It 
is  a  copy  of  St.  Peter's  at  Rome,  and  takes  its  name 


458  ST.   PETERSBUEG. 

from  an  iinaj^e  of  the  Virgin  brought  from  Kazan  to  Mos- 
cow in  1579.     See  the  beautiful  Corinthian  colonnade, 
with   columns  of  Finland  granite.      Interior  superb; 
shrine  of  chased  silver,  the  gift  of  Cossacks  who  served; 
in  wars  of  1813-14  ;  images  before  which  lamps  are  al-, 
waj's  kept  burning ;  flags,  arras,  and  standards,  taken  'm.\ 
battle  ;  bronze  statues  of  Kutusoff  and  Barclay  de  Toll?' 
in  front  of  the  ch.     No  organ  or  instrument  is  used  iu 
tiie  service,  but  great  pains  are  taken  to  secure  gooci 
voices.     Remark  the  deep  bass  intonation.     T/ie  For' ; 
tress  and  Cathedral  of  St.  Peter  and  St.  Faul  contains,  i 
in  its  vaults  the  tombs  of  all  the  sovereigns  of  Russia^ 
since  the  foundation  of  St.  Petersburg,  except  Peter  II. 
(buried  at  Moscow).     The  fortress  part  of  this  edifice 
is  used  as  a  prison,  and  also  contains  the  imperial  Mint. 
The  gilded  spire  is  visible  from  a  great  distance.     Hun- 
dreds of  flags  are  suspended  along  the  walls. 

The  Cathedral  of  St.  Isaac,  the  largest  in  St.  Peters- 
burg, is  on  the  site  of  a  ch.  built  in  1710  by  Peter  the 
Great.  Its  foundations  rest  upon  thousands  of  piles. 
The  interior  is  chiefly  striking  from  its  splendid  propor- 
tions. Notice  the  lavish  use  of  polished  granite,  white 
marble,  malachite,  porphyry,  and  lapis  lazuli.  Fine 
view  of  city  from  dome.  The  Winter  Palace  (admission 
by  tickets  procured  from  chief  of  palace  police;  fee), 
built  in  1754,  in  Catherine's  reign,  stands  on  the  r.  bank 
of  the  Neva.  This  is  the  imperial  city  residence,  and  this 
building  was  the  scene  of  the  Nihilist  conspiracies,  which 
finally  resulted  in  the  death  of  Alexander  II.  in  1881. 
The  exterior  is  not  impressive,  but  the  interior  is  richly 
ornamented  with  paintings,  bronzes,  marbles,  and  pre- 
cious stones.  Grand  festival  here  on  New  Year's  Day 
by  the  Emperor  to  all  his  subjects.  See  the  Ambassa- 
dor's Staircase  on  the  Neva ;  also  the  magnificent  flight 
of  white  marble  steps,  leading  to  the  state  apartments. 


ST.   PETERSBURG.  459 

riie  Throne  Room  is  the  finest  in  Europe.  The  White 
Room,  St.  George  s  Hall,  the  Field  Marshal's  Gallert/y 
the  Alexander  Hall,  the  Halls  of  Battles  (in  which  are 
paintings  by  Horace  Vernet),  the  Golden  Chamber,  the 
Empress's  Winter  Garden,  and  the  Romanoff  Gallery- 
are  the  principal  apartments.  Near  the  entrance  of  the 
latter  gallery  is  the  green  curtain,  behind  which  is  a 
tablet  on  which  are  the  rules  drawn  up  by  the  Empress 
Catherine,  to  be  enforced  at  her  receptions  at  the  Her- 
mitage. In  the  jewel  room,  see  the  Imperial  crown  and 
sceptre  (containing  a  diamond  weighing  194  carats) .  See 
also  room  in  which  Emperor.  Nicholas  died.  The  Her' 
milage  (open  daily  except  Eri.  and  holidays,  11-4),  close 
to  Winter  Palace,  was  founded  by  Catherine  in  1765, 
and  rebuilt  in  1840-50.  The  famous  museum  contains- 
1,700  paintings  of  all  schools,  among  them  being  some 
by  Murillo,  Velasquez,  Rubens,  Yan  Dyke,  Rembrandt,, 
and  Ruysdael.  There  are  also  vast  collections  of  en- 
graved stones,  and  designs  by  masters. 

The  Taurida  Palace,  the  Anitchkoff  Palace,  the 
Michael  and  the  Marble  Palaces  are  not  impressive 
buildings.  The  Russian  Museum  of  Alexander  IIL 
(open  daily,  ex.  Mon.,  10-4)  contains  goed  collection 
of  modern  art.  The  Admiralty  is  a  vast  edifice  with 
fa9ade  -^  M.  long.  Near  it  are  the  great  dockyards,  the 
headquarters  of  the  army,  and  the  War  Office.  The 
Wooden  Cottage  of  Peter  the  Great,  containing  many- 
relics  of  the  famous  monarch,  is  near  the  citadel. 

The  Imperial  Library,  containing  400,000  vols.,  is 
near  the  Kazan  Ch.  Other  noteworthy  libraries  are 
those  of  the  Academy  of  Science,  the  Hermitage,  and 
the  Alexander  NevsJcy  Monastery.  This  monastery  is 
one  of  the  most  celebrated  in  Russia.  It  was  founded 
by  the  great  Peter  in  honor  of  Alexander  the  Great, 
who  conquered  the  Swedes  and  the  Livonians.  The 
museum  of  the  Academy  of  Science  occupies  a  portion 


460  MOSCOW 

of  the  superb  biulding  near  the  Admiralty.  The 
Asiatic  Museum  is  rich  in.  Eastern  antiquities.  The 
Romanoff  Museum^  tiiat  attached  to  the  Mining 
School,  that  of  Natural  History,  and  the  Egyptian 
Museum  should  be  seen.  The  theatres,  kept  up  at  the 
government  expense,  are  all  of  large  size.  The 
Marien(opera,  and  ballet) ,  Alexander {Jlnssmn.  drama 
and  comedy),  and  Jfichael  (French)  are  the  best. 
The  monuments  are  nearly  all  good.  Those  most 
worthy  of  attention  are  the  Equestrian  Statue  of 
Peter  the  Great,  with  a  prancing  horse  balanced  on 
its  hind  legs,  by  Falconet;  and  the  column  of 
Alexander,  a  single  shaft  of  red  granite  80  ft.  high, 
weighing  400  tons,  stands  near  the  Winter  Palace. 
The  Summer  Ijrardens,  1  M.  long  and  ^  'mile  wide, 
beautifully  ornamented,  contain  the  palace  in  which 
Peter  the  Great  occasionally  lived.  A  day  excursion 
should  be  made  to  Tsarshoye  Selo,  where  the  emperor 
resides  in  the  spring  and  autumn. 

It  is  1011  M.  from  St.  Petersburg  to  Moscow.  The 
rly.  carriages  are  much  like  those  of  America  in  model. 
The  stations  are  all  comfortable,  refreshment  saloons 
excellent  and  fares  reasonable.  First-class  express 
to  Moscow,  24  roubles;  second,  17  roubles.  The 
principal  town  on  the  way  is  Tver,  at  the  confluence 
of  the  Yvertsa  and  the  Volga.  Cathedral,  Trinity 
Church.  Here  steamer  can  be  taken  to  Nijni' 
Novgorod,  and  thence  to  Astrahan. 

Moscow  {National,  Slavianshi  Bazaar,  Chev' 
rier,  d'Angleterre)^  or  Holy  Moscow,  as  the  Russians 
call  it,  the  ancient  capital  of  Russia,  formerly  the 
residence  of  the  Emperors,  is  situated  on  the 
Moskowa,  in  a  pleasant  country.  Up  to  the  great 
fire  in  1812,  it  was  the  most  irregularly  built  town 
in  Europe,  and  to-day  it  remains  original  and  pic- 
turesque in  a  striking  degree.  A  good  view  may  be 
had  from  Sparrow  Hill  (by  carriage,  about  7  r.)  In 
the  centre  of  the  city  is  the  Kremlin,  a  triangle  2  M. 


MOSCOW.  461 

in  circuit,  filled  with  palaces,  cliurclies,  arsenals,  and 
museums.  Here  tlie  Tartar  architecture  predominates. 
An  excellent  preparation  for  visiting  the  Kremlin  is  the 
perusal  of  Theophiie  Gaiitier's  lively  and  sparkling  book 
on  a  "  Winter  in  Russia."  The  Redeemer  s  Gate  and  the 
Gate  of  St.  Nicholas  slvq  objects  of  great  veneration  among 
Russians.  Visitors  must  uncover  their  heads  on  pass- 
ing through  the  Redeemer's  Gate.  The  present  Krem- 
lin  Palace  is  modern,  the  old  Kremlin  having  been  de- 
stroyed in  1812.  Most  of  the  ancient  palaces  were  of 
wood.  To  Nicholas  I.  the  erection  of  the  present  one 
is  due.  The  Hall  of  St.  George,  the  Hall  of  St.  Alex- 
ander Neoshj,  and  Sts.  Andrew  and  Catherine,  and  the 
Banqueting  Hall,  as  well  as  the  Tereni,  whicii  contains 
a  collection  of  the  portraits  of  the  czars,  and  from  the 
terrace  of  which  Napoleon  I.  looked  down  upon  Mos- 
cow when  he  came  there  as  conqueror,  are  among  the 
Kremlin's  chief  marvels.  In  the  little  Ch.of  the  Re- 
deemer are  some  beautiful  decorations.  On  the  Cathedral 
Place  is  the  Cathedral  of  the  Assumption,  founded  in 
1325,  and  rebuilt  in  1473.  Many  sacred  treasures  here. 
In  this  ch.  the  Emperors  of  Russia  are  crowned.  The 
Cathedral  of  the  Archangel  Michael  contains  many 
tombs  of  sovereigns.  The  Ch.  of  the  Annunciation  is 
where  the  czars  are  baptized ;  is  rich  with  relics.  The 
jewels  m  all  Russian  chs.  are  worth  studying.  House 
of  the  Synod,  Treasury  (open  free  week  days  ex.  Sat., 
Derm  it  at  the  chamberlain's  office),  and  Arsenal  will 
furnish  plenty  of  amusement  for  a  day.  The  To?^er  of 
loan  Veliki,  or  John  the  Great,  built  in  1600,  and  320 
ft.  high,  contains  34  bells,  the  largest  of  which  weighs 
64  tons.  When  all  these  bells  are  rung  together  at 
Easter  the  effect  is  wonderful.  At  the  foot  of  this  tower 
is  the  vast  Tsar  Kolokol,  or  Monarch  of  iicilh  It  once 
hung  in  a  tower  (burned  in  1737)  ;  weighs  444,000 
lbs. ;  and  is  20  ft.  high  and  60  ft.  round.   The  value  of 


462  NIJNI-NOVGOROD.  —  ODESSA. 

the  metal  in  the  bell  is  nearly  ^3,000,000.  Outside  the 
Kremlin  is  the  Chinese  town,  so  called,  founded  by 
Helena.  Here  are  the  Cathedral  of  St.  Basil,  built  in 
1554  by  Ivan  IV.,  the  Romanoff  Palace,  the  Iberian 
Gate  and  Chapel,  the  University  (900  students),  the  great 
Riding  School,  the  Theatres,  and  the  largest  Bazaar  in 
llussia,  except  that  of  Nijni-lNfovgorod.  The  pigeon 
being  looked  upon  as  sacred  by  the  Russians,  thousands 
of  these  birds  are  to  be  seen  in  the  streets  of  Moscow. 
S.  of  Moscow  is  a  beautiful  villa  owned  by  the  Imperial 
family.  The  Tretyahoff  Gallery  of  modern  Russian 
art  (open  daily  ex.  Mon. ,  10-4,  free)  is  worth  a  visit. 

It  is  271f  M.  from  Moscow  to  Nijni-Novgorod. 
Tourists  pressed  for  time  can  take  night  tram  there, 
spend  the  day  at  Nijni,  and  return  the  next  night. 

Nijni-Novgorod"  {Be  Russie,  Egoroff's),  a' city  of 
76,000  inhab.,  is  celebrated  for  its  great  fair,  held  an- 
nually in  July  and  Aug.,  and  attended  by  200,000  peo- 
ple. Here  the  inhabitants  of  the  barbaric  East  come 
into  close  contact  with  the  Western  merchants  and  vis- 
itors. The  town  is  at  the  confluence  of  the  Oka  and 
the  Volga.  The  Kremlin  is  on  a  bank  <^verhanging  the 
Volga.     The  transactions  at  the  fair  amount  annually 

to  ^80,000,000. 

From  Moscow  to  Odessa  (40i  hrs. ;  fare,  32  r.  1st 
class,  20  r.  2(1  class)  the  route  passes  through  Kieff. 

Odessa  {De  Londrss,  De  St.  Petershourg)  was 
founded  in  Catherine  II. 's  reign.  It  is  an  important 
commercial  port,  with  250,000  inhab. ;  but  there  is 
little  of  interest  to  the  traveller  except  the  Cathedral^ 
a  small  museum,  a  bronze  statue  of  Richelieu,  and  the 
University.  Steamers  (poor)  leave  Odessa  twice  a 
week  for  the  Crimea  and  Sebastopol,  and  the  field  ol 
the  Crimean  war  may  easily  be  visited.  There  is  also 
steam  communication  with  Constantinople. 


TABLft  OF  CLIMATIC  HEALTH  B"P;  ?ORTS,  MIN- 
ERAL WATERS,  SEA  BATHS,  AVD  HYDRO* 
PATHIC    ESTABLISHMENTS. 

Times  and  railway  fares  are  calculat'i  I  from  Paris. 

Aix-la-ChapeUe  (10  hrs  from  Paris  ;  fare,  48  fr.).— 
Sulphurous  alkaline  waters,  107°  to  )20°  T.  For  skin  dis- 
eases, rheumatism,  chrouic  diseases  of  the  nervous  centres, 
neuralgias,  paralysis,  and  syphilitic  maladies. 

Aix-les-Bains  (14^  hrs.;  71  fr.  60  c.).  —  Sulphurous 
hot  springs,  112°  to  114°  E.  Have  a  world-wide  reputa- 
tion in  cases  of  rheumatism  and  gout;  also  chionic  catarrh 
of  the  neck  of  the  womb,  aineuorrhoea,  metritis,  syphilis, 
bronchitis,  laryngeal  and  nasal  catarrh,  pharyuji.itis,  wounds 
by  fire-arms.     April  to  Nov.,  and  all  the  year. 

Am^lie-les-Bains  (241  hrs.;  120i  fr.).  —  Sulpburous 
sodaic  watei's,  71°  to  172°  E.,  and  winter  statio'j.  Herpetic 
diathesis,  and  catarrhal  aifectious.     All  the  year. 

Arcaclion  (10  hrs.;  78  fr.  70  c),  —  Vf'iuter  station, 
and  sea  baths.  For  invalids  requiring  a  aedalive  air  ;  for 
delicate,  lymphatic,  and  anseraic  persons ;  nervous  complaints  ;. 
<5hest  and  lung  affections  ;  scrofula ;  gout.  Winter  season, 
A'ora  No\\  till  June  ;  summer,  from  May  iVX  Oct. 

Aulus  (24^  hrs.;  119  fr.). -— Alkaline  waters,  48°  t-. 
Purgative,  laxative,  and  diuretic  action;,  according  to  dose, 
in  diseases  of  the  liver,  in  arthritic  a'Tections,  and  in  syphilis. 

Baden  (27  hrs. ;  152|-  fr.).  — Sulphurous  waters,  82°  to 
})5°  F.  For  rheumatism,  gout,  anaemia,  and  scrofula  (espe- 
i'iallv  of  a  chronic  character).    May  to  Oct.,  and  all  the  year. 

Baden-Baden  (16  hrs.  ,  63  fr.).  —  Alkaline  chloride 
^f  sodium  waters.  110°  to  130°  F.  Uric  acid  diathesis,  gout, 
and  kindred  comi^laiuts  ;  ailments  dependent  on  malaria, 
ai^d  certain  sk^u  diseases ;  chronic  rheumatism  ;  wounds,  frac- 
tures of  the  bonss,  sci'ofula,  syphilis,  chronic  catarrh,  certain 
ladaev  affections,  anaemia.     May  to  Oct.  and  aU  the  year. 


464  CLIMATIC   HEALTH   RESORTS, 

Bagn^res-de-Bigorre  (22  hrs.  ;    105  fr.).  —  Saline. 
sulphurous,  ierrugiiious,  and  arsenical  waters,  72"  to  120°  F. 
For  tuberculosis,  affections  of  the  respii-atory  organs,  intes- 
tines,  and  urinary   system,   ansemia,  and   female  disorders.  J|  [ 
Juue  io  Sept.,  baths;   Nov.  to  May,  winter  station.  ^i 

Bagnoles  (19  hrs. ;  67  fr.  65  c).  —  Saline,  sulphurous, 
lithic,  silicate,  and  arsenical  waters,  66°  F.  For  diseases  of 
the  digestive  organs,  skin,  rheumatism,  and  scrofula,  chlor- 
osis, congestion  of  the  abdominal  viscera,  phlebitis,  &c. 

Bareges  (2U  hrs. ;  113  fr.).  —  Alkali-saline-sulphurous 
waters,  45°  to  105°  F.  For  scrofula,  diseases  of  the  bones. 
herpes  and  syphilis.     June  15  to  Sept.  15. 

Biarritz"  (19^  hi-s. ;  96  fr.  80  c).  —  Sea-bathing  and 
winter  station.  For  chlorosis,  anseniia,  chest  and  lung  com- 
plaints, laryngitis,  pharyngitis.     Aug.  to  May. 

Bourbon-rArchambault  (6f  hrs. ;  40  fr.  75  c).  — 
Bromo-iodurated  saline  waters,  125°  F. ;  and  bicai'bon^te 
ferruginous  magnesian  waters,  120°  to  160°  F.,  highly  gase- 
ous.    For  scrofula,  rheumatism,  paralysis,  nervous  affections. 

Bourboule  (La)  (13i  hrs.  ;  60  fr.).  —  Effervescent 
saline  arsenical  waters  (28  milligr.  arseniate  of  soda  per 
litre),  140°  F.  For  ansemia,  lymphatism,  general  debility, 
affections  of  the  skin  and  respiratory  organs,  rheumatisnij 
and  intermittent  fevers.     May  25  to  Sept.  30. 

Cannes  (20|  hrs.;  130  fr.).  — Winter  station  of  fii-st 
importance;  climate  tonic  and  stimulating  near  the  sea; 
sedative  towards  Le  Cannet.  Sea  baths  in  spring ;  season, 
Oct.  to  May.  For  nervous  debility,  anaemia,  phthisis,  laryn- 
gitis, pharyngitis,  rheumatism,  paralysis,  gout,  and  diabetes. 

Carlsbrunn.  —  Highly  elfervescing,  ferruginous  manga- 
nese  waters,  45°  F. ;  climatic  station.  For  debility  of  the 
male  and  female  sexual  organs,  sterility,  impotence,  affections 
of  the  brain  due  to  overwork.     June  to  Sept. 

Castellamare  di  Stabia  (50|  hrs.;  248  fr.).  —  Sea 
baths  ;  cold  chloride  of  sodium,  bitter  and  sulphurous  chaly= 
beate  waters.  For  obstructions  of  the  liver  and  spleen, 
affections  of  the  mesenteric  glands,  biliary  and  '-^sical  calc^a. 


MINERAL  WATERS,   SEA  BATHS,   ETC.      465 

jaundice,  dropsy,  hemorrhoids,  chronic  ophthalmia,  herpes, 
catarrh  of  the  digestive  organs,  hypochondriasis,  urinary  cal- 
culi, vesical  catarrh,  scrofula,  lymphatism,  congestion  of  the 
uterus,  leucorrhoea,  &c.  Sea  and  mineral  bathing.  May  to 
Oct. ;  winter  season,  Oct.  to  April. 

Cauterets  (211  hrs. ;  111  fr.  90  c).  —  Sulphate  of 
soda  springs,  55°  to  145°  F.  For  catarrh  of  the  respiratory 
organs,  skin  diseases,  uterine  affections,  scrofula. 

Contrexeville  ^10  hrs. ;  51?  fr.). — •Effervescent  alka- 
line, slightly  feri'uginous  waters,  55°  F.  Especially  for 
gravel,  biliary  and  vesical  calculi,  aud  catarrh,  diabetes,  gout, 
and  gouty  rheumatism,  disorders  of  the  urinary  svstem,  affec- 
tions of  the  uterus,  hepatic  complaints.     May  20  to  Sept. 

Dax  (15  hrs. ;  90  fr.  80  c).  —  Hyperthennal  mixed  sul- 
phurous waters,  120°  to  145°  F.  For  articular,  musculai', 
or  rheumatic  affections,  gout,  neuralgia,  and  neuroses. 

Dieppe  (*4  hrs.;  20  fr.  65  c). — -Much-frequented  sea- 
bathing and  summer  resort. 

Divonns-les-Bains  (15|  hrs.;  81  fr.).  —  Cold  water 
springs;  water  exceptionally  pure,  44°  F.  For  chronic  rheu- 
matic arthritis,  lumbago,  pleuro-dynia,  gout,  sciatica,  neu- 
ralgia, hypochondria,  neuroses,  gastralgia,  bronchial  catarrh, 
dyspepsia,  liver  and  bladder  complaints,  hemorrhoids,  paraly- 
sis, chronic  affections  of  the  spinal  cord,  scrofula,  and  female 
"^''sorders. 

Eaux-Boniies  (18  hrs. :  105  fr.).  —  Sulphurous  saline 
acd  :-lkaliiie  waters,  90*^  F.  For  angina  pectoris,  and  laryn- 
gitis, bronchitis,  and  chronic  catarrh,  asthma,  chronic  pleu- 
ritis,  auEemia,  lymphatism,  and  scrofula.     June  to  Sept. 

Ems  (18i  hrs. ;  71  fr.  15  c).  —  Saline  alkaline  and  sa^ 
line  earthy,  65°  to  110°  F.  These  waters  act  on  the  lungs 
and  chest,  and  on  nervous  diseases.      May  to  Oct. 

Enghien  (20  min. ;  1  fr.  35  c).  —  Cold  sulphurous  and 
lime  waters.  For  scrofula,  affections  of  respiratory  organs, 
herpes,  and  rheumatism. 

Etretat  (5  hrs.  50  min. ;  28  fr.).  —  A  now  much-fre- 
quiMited  resort  for  sea-bathina*  in  summer. 


,  468  CLIMATIC  HEALTH  RESORTS, 

£3vian-les-Bains  (13  livs.;  82  fr.  80  c.).  — Alkalme 

waters,  and  climatic  air  station.     For  affections  of  the  uii. 
nary  and  digestive  organs,  the  liver  and  biliary  apparatus. 

Geneva  (14  hrs.^  77  fr.).  —  Milk  cure.  Bathers  from 
Aix-les-Bains  come  here  to  rest  after  their  cure. 

Gorbersdorf  (89  hrs. ;  167i  Ir.).  ~  Noted  for  its  moun- 
tain-air cure,  in  atfections  of  the  respiratory  organs.  Ante- 
mia  and  chlorosis  are  also  treated. 

Grasse.  —  Dry  and  sedative  climate;  winter  station; 
Ovt.  to  June.  Chest  and  lung  complaints,  pharyngitis, 
nervous  affections,  anaemia,  i-hlorosi:. 

Hombwrg-les-Bains  (18  hrs.  40  min. ;  86  fr.  69  c). 
- — Saline,  ferruginous,  and  ai^^'^ulous  waters.  For  dyspepsia, 
scrolula,  and  auEcmia. 

Hydres  (20  hrs.;  117  u-.). —  Winter  season,  Nov.  tt 
June  ;  sea-bathing,  May  to  Oct.  For  diseases  of  the  laryns 
chest,  and  lungs,  sci'ofula,  diabetes,  gout,  and  rheumatism. 

Interlaken  (18  hrs. ;  78  fr.  65  c).  —  Climatic  statioa 
in  summer,  visited  for  its  beautiful  environs.     Whey  cure. 

Ischia  (501-  hrs.  ;  288?  fr.).  —  Alkali -saline  waters, 
145"^  F.  For  uterine  affections,  rheumatism,  diseases  of  the 
bones,  sores,  gout,  and  paralysis.     Spring  and  autumn. 

Ischl  (23f  hrs.;  168  fr.  90  c).  —  A  climatic  summer 
station  ;  May  to  Oct.  Saline  and  cold  sulphurous  waters  ; 
whey  cure ;  saline,  steam,  hot  and  cold  brine,  and  sulphurous 
baths  ;  mud,  malt,  pine-cone,  sap,  and  wave  baths  ;  iuhala- 
tion.     Recommended  for  nervous  affections. 

Karlsbad  (82  hrs.;  137  fi'.).  —  Polymetallic  waters, 
125°  to  170°  F.  For  constipation,  liver  and  bilious  com- 
plaints, plethora,  obesity,  gout,  gravel,  &c. 

Kissingen  (21  hrs.  40  niiu. ;  106  fr.).  —  Cold  saline 
•waters,  strongly  mineralized  ;  tonic  and  excitant.  Especially 
suited  to  abdominal  and  hemorrhoidal  congestions. 

Kreuznach  (131  hrs.  ;  72  fr.).  —  Bromo-iodurated  sa- 
line waters.  F  orscrofulou*  affections,  diseases  of  the  ears» 
respiratory  organs,  bones,  ttnd  joints,  all  femafe  and  skin 
disease?     ad  in  chronic  affections  generally.     May  to  Oct. 


MINERAL  WATERS,   SEA  BATHS,   ETC.      467 

Lausanne  (15^  hrs. ;  64  fr.  20  c).  —  Climatic  station 
ixL  suunu  r  and  aiUuiiiu  ;  bracing  air  and  graj)e  cure. 

Loeche-les-Bains  (30  hrs.  ;  ]00  fr.). — ^  Various 
springs  ;  liot  saline  earthy  waters,  70°  to  120°  F.  For  struma, 
herpes,  and  skin  diseases,  sci'ofuia,  rheumatism,  chronic 
bronchitis,  invetei-ale  syphilis,  &c.     May  15  to  Sept.  30. 

Luchon  {I'dk  hi's.  ':  imi  fr.).  —  Upwai-ds  of  fifty  differ, 
ent  spiings,  mirieraJized  liv  hydro-sujphui'ic  acid;  also  ferru- 
giiiousmd  alkaline.  For  rheumatism,  scrofula,  bionchial 
and  skin  diseases,  and  chronic  sores.     June  to  Sept. 

Luxeuil  (111  hrs.  ;  60  fr.).  — Saline,  ferruginous,  and 
magucsian  waters  ;  eleven  springs,  70°  to  125°  F.  They 
are  lirst  excitant,  then  sedative  ;  and  good  in  cases  of  neural- 
gia, rheumatism,  paralysis,  gastralgia,  &c. 

Madeira  (steamers  from  Southampton,  Bordeaux,  or  Lis- 
bon ;  journey  5  to  6  days;  500  fr.).  —  Highly  recommended 
for  pulmonary  complaints  ;  climate  delightful  ;  no  winter. 

Mentone  (24^  hrs.;  139  fr.).  —Winter  station  of  first 
importance,  and  sea  baths.  For  all  forms  of  chest  diseases 
and  rheumatism,  cachetic  complaints,  and  debility.  Winter 
season,  November  to  June;  sea-bathing.  May  to  Oct. 

Monaco  (24^  hrs.;  138  fr.). —  MoJe  Carlo  is  the 
favorite  winter  I'esort  of  pleasure-seekers.  One  of  the  most 
sheltered  stations  on  the  Riviera.     Sea  baths  ;  May  to  Oct. 

Mont-Dore(ll  hrs.;  64i  fr.).  —  Bicarbonate,  arsen- 
ical, and  effervescent  ferruginous  waters,  107°  to  115°  F. 
For  all  forms  of  chest  diseases  and  of  the  respiratory  tract ; 
ophthalmia,  rheumatic  and  nervous  affections,  disorder.s  of 
the  uterus  and  skin.     June  1  to  Oct.  1. 

Naples  (48  hrs. ;  223  fr.  85  c).  —  The  great  variety  of 
mineral  waters  and  their  therapeutic  properties  have  rendered 
this  delightful  city  and  its  environs  the.most  frequented  bath- 
ing station  in  Italy.     Sea  baths. 

Nice  (22  hrs.;'  134  fr.  20  c.).—  Winter  station  of  Tirst 
importance.  For  chronic  diseases  of  the  chest,  lungs,  and 
respiratory  organs  ;  affections  of  the  larynx,,  liver  compinints. 
disorders   of  the  spinal  cord,    diabetes,    gout,  •  rherni  atism. 


468  CLIMATIC   HEALTH  RESORTS 


paral^vsis,  debility.    Winter  season,  Nov.  to  June  ;  sea-bathing 
season,  May  to  Oct.  ;  principal  season,  Jan.  to  March. 

Ostend  (14  hrs. ;  38  fr.  40  c.)  —  Sea  baths.  Sandy- 
beach  and  bi-acing  climate.      Season,  June  1  to  Oct.  1. 

Palermo  (66i  hrs.;  239i  fr.). —Winter  station ;  sea. 
baths.    Season,  Nov.  to  April ;  bathing  season.  May  to  O-^t.  ^ 

Pau  {17i  hrs.;  101  fr.).  — Winter  resort  of  first  im- 
portance.  For  chest  complaints,  consumption  (inflammatory 
action  and  blood-spitting),  asthma,  bronchitis,  rheumatisni.j 
neuralgia,  and  nervous  disorders.     Nov.  15  to  May  31. 

Pierrefonds  (2^  hrs.  :  12  fr.).  —  One  cold  sulphate  of 
lime  spring ;  one  fei-ruginous  and  arsenical.  Pulmonary  catarra. 

Plombi^res  (11  hrs.;  45  fr.).  —  The  springs  range 
from  30°  to  175°  F.  For  rheumatism,  paralysis,  herpes., 
nervous  debility,  hysteria. 

Potigues  (5  hrs.;  29  fr.  70  c).  —  Mixed  bicarbonate 
ferruginous  gaseous  waters.    Affections  of  the  digestive  organs. 

Preste  (La)  (23!  hrs.;  145  f.).  — Very  efficacious  wa- 
ters in  diseases  of  the  urinary  organs,  gravel.    90°  to  105' F. 

Piillna,  —  No  ti-eatment  nt  Pilllna  itself;  the  waters  ayq 
exported,  and  considered  excellent  as  preservatives  and  reme- 
dies against  diseases  of  the  digestive  organs,  constipation, 
congestions,  liver  and  bladder  complaints,  nervous  disorders, 
obesity,  disenscs  of  the  eye,  headache,  and  gastritis. 

Pyrmont  (18  hrs.;  84  fr.  30c.).  —  Chalybeate  springs 
of  importance  anl  much  renown;  effervescent  saline  waters, 
brine  baths,  inhalations.  For  female  complaints,  especially 
ansemia,  chlorosis,  scrofula,  stomachic  and  intestinal  catarrhs, 
obesity,  affections  of  spleen  and  liver.  Season,  May  15  to  Oct.  1. 

Recoaro  (34f  hrs.;  189|  fr.).  —  Alkaline,  acidulated 
ferruginous  waters,  45°  F.  For  chronic  and  nervous  debil- 
ity, female  diseases,  obesity,  auccmia,  chlorosis,  gravel  and 
vesical  calculus,  congestion  of  the  liver,  biliary  calculi,  hem- 
orrhoidal complaints,  intestinal  catarrhs.     Mav  to  Sept. 

Rome  (491  h.-s. ;  201  fr.  90  c.).  — Winter  station  of 
first  importance.  Fm  debility  and  scrofula  in  children, 
chronic  catarrh  of -V,  bronchi,  amphysema.     The  climate  is 


I 


MINERAL  WATERS,  SEA  BATHS,  ETC.      469 


sedative  to  the  nei'vos  and  respiratory  ors^ans ;  tut  patients 
sbonld  first  consult  their  doctor.     Oct.  to  May. 

Rorschach. —  Climatic;  station  in  summer;  haths  in 
thfi  lake  ;  Turkish  baths  ;  very  pure  and  equable  atmosphere. 

Royat  (9^  hrs. ;  Blf  fr.).  —  Four  springs  :  mixed  alka- 
line, gaseous,  ferruginous,  and  slightly  arsenical  and  lithic 
waters,  45°  to  95°  F.  For  lymphatic  affections,  anaemia, 
chlorosis,  catarrhal  affections,  arthritic  gout,  and  skin  dis- 
eases dependent  on  a  gouty  diathesis. 

St.  Galniier.  —  Alkaline  table  waters,  used  in  France. 

St.  Moritz  (34  hrs.  ;  130  fr.  60  c).  —  Climatic  raoun- 
tain-air  station.  Two  ferruginous  spi-ings,  very  cold  and 
very  effervescino;.     For  phthisis. 

St.  Raphael  (19^  hrs.;  130  fr.  20  c.).  — Winter  sta- 
tion  and  sea  baths  ;  summer.  May  1  to  Nov.  1 ;  winter, 
Nov.  1  to  June  1.  For  atonic  debility,  rachitis,  scrofula, 
lymphatic  affections,  chest  and  lung  complaints,  diabetes^ 
rheumatism,  gout,  emphysema,  aneema,  and  chlorosis. 

San  Remo.  —  Winter  station  of  first  importance ;  la- 
ttjut  scrofula,  chronic  bronchial,  stomachic,  and  intestinal 
Catarrh,  emphysema,  pharyngitis,  laryngitis,  pleuritic  exu- 
dations,  incipient  phthisis,  rheumatism,  Bright's  disease, 
diabetes,  and  general  debility.     Nov.  to  May. 

Saxon  (18  hi's. ;  73  fr.  55  c).  —  Brorao-iodurated  sa. 
line  waters,  60°  F.     For  syphilis,  scrofula,  and  gout. 

Scheveningen  (I5i  hrs.;  67  fr.  70  c).  —  Very  well 
frequented  summer  resort;  sea-bathing;  beach  of  fine  sands. 

Scliinznach  (17  hrs.;  73  fr.).  —  Sulphurous  waters, 
rich  in  sulphuretted  hydrogen  and  carbonic  acid,  ^sio  in 
chloride  of  sodium  and  salts  of  lime,  95°  F.  For  chronic 
skiu  diseases,  eczema,  acne,  psoriasis,  &c.,  scrofula,  chronic 
catarrh,  bronchitis,  emphysema,  asthma,  r^  ^umatism,  gout, 
syphilis,  mercurialism  ;  May  to  Oct. 

Schlangenbad  (19  hrs.  10  rain.;  81f  fr.).  — Nine 
springs,  75°  to  90°  F.  For  menstrual  difficulties  in  delicate 
women;  general  debility  in  children,  women,  and  ged  per- 
son's;   Efout.  pnrtinl  pMrnlv<is.      Mny  1  to  Oct.  1 

Schvi^-albach  /20  iirs.j   f6  tV.  5  c).  —  Cii;i^-,  .oeate  wa- 


470  CLIMATIC   HEALTH   RESORTS, 

ters.  For  all  female  complaints;  anscmia,  chlorosis,  nervous 
aifectioiib,  debility  of  mnscles  and  mucous  membranes,  espe- 
cially catarrlial  aflTectioiis  of  the  genital  organs.    May  to  Oct. 

Spa  (8i  hrs. ;  44|  fr.). —  Highly  effervescent  ferrugi- 
nous and  acidulous  waters.  For  ansemia,  chlorosis,  female 
complaints,  hysteria,  gastralgia,  sterility,  difFicult  menstrua- 
tion, liver  complaints,  urinary  disorders,  cachexia,  mucous 
catarrh  of  the  uterus,  &c.    May  to  Oct. 

Bpezzia  (28  hrs.;  130  fr.  40  c). — Winter  air-cure 
and  summer  sea-bathing  resort. 

Teplits-Sclionau  (32  hrs. ;  145|  fr.).  —  Alkali-saline 
waters,  95°  to  125°  F.  For  rheumatism,  gout,  neuralgia, 
paralysis,  incipient  spinal  complaints,  scrofulous  tumors  and 
sores,  fractures,  anchylosis,  &c.     Mav  to  Nov. 

Trotiville  (6  hrs.;  28  fr.  65 'c). —Fashionable  and 
much -frequented  summer  station;  sea  baths,  sandy  beach. 

Ullage  (14|  hrs.  ;-  79  fr.). —  Saline  sulphurous  waters, 
Sl^  F.  For  scrofula,  chronic  affections  of  the  skin,  rheuma- 
tism, nervous  affections,  diseases  of  the  eyelids,  granular 
.pharyngitis,  &c.     Milk  and  whey  cure.    May  15  to  Oct.  15. 

"Valencia. —  Spanish  winter  resort ;  sea  baths,  sandy  beach. 

Vals  (17-2  brs.  ;  87  fr.).  — Cold  alkaline  springs,  light, 
medium,  and  strong ;  principally  used  as  table  waters.  For 
gravel,  liver  complaints,  and  disorders  of  the  spleen. 

Venice  (30  hrs.  ;  154  fr.).  • —  Sea  baths  and  winter  sta- 
tion  ;  sedative  climate,  somewhat  like  that  of  Pau. 

Vevey  (161  hrs. ;  86i  fr.).  —  Air-cure  station,  much 
frequented  on  account  of  the  mildness  of  its  temperature. 

Vichy  (8^  hrs.  ;  45  fr.). —  Bicarbonate  of  soda  alkaline 
springs,  35°  to  105°  F.  For  dyspepsia,  hepatic  disorders, 
uric  acid  diathesis,  catarrh  of  the  urinary  organs,  diabetes. 

Voslau  (27t  hrs. ;  156  fr.  95  c).  —  A  favorite  climatic 
resort  of  the  Viennese.  May  Ih  to  Sept.  30;  grape  cure, 
Sept.  to  Oct. 

Wiesbaden  (15  hrs.  ;  86  fr.  45  c).  —  The  wateio  are 
excitant,  resolvent,  reconstituent,  and  laxative,  30°  to  165°  F. 
For  scrofula,  rheumatism,  paralysis,  and  impaired  digestion. 

Z'ixich.  (18  hrs. ;  85  fr.  10  c.i. — Earthy  alkaline  waters. 


DIPLOMATIC  AND  CONSULAR  AGENTS  OF  THE 
UNITED  STATES 

IN   THE 

PRIXCIPAL   EUROPEAN    COUNTRIES 


Vienna 

Budapest 
Prague . 
Trieste  . 
Carlsbad 


Brussels 

Antwerp 
(ihent   . 
Liege    . 

Copenhagen 


Paris 


Algiers. 
Calais 
Oran 
Bordeaux 


Austria= Hungary 

.    Ambassador,  Richard  C.  Kerens 
Consul-GeneraJ,  Charles  Denby 
Consul- General,  Paul  Nash. 

Covvsnl,  Joseph  I.  Brittain. 
G.  M.  Hotschick. 
"        Will  L.  Lowrie. 

Belgium 

.  Minister,  Charles  Page  Bryan, 
Consul-General,  Ethelbert  Watts. 
H.  W.  Diederich. 
Consul,  William  P.  Atwell. 
"        Henry  A.  Johnson. 

Denmark 

.  Minister,  Maurice  F.  Egan. 
Consul,  Wallace  C.  Bond. 
Vice-Consul,  Victor  Juhler. 

France 

.    Anihassador,  Robert  Bacon. 
Sec.  of  Embassy,  A.  Bailly-Blanchard. 
Consul- General,  Frank  H.  Mason. 
Consul,  Albert  W.  Robert. 
"         James  B.  Milner. 
.      Agent,  Albert  H.  Elford. 
.     Consul,  Alfred  K.  Moe. 


472    DIPLOMATIC  AND  CONSULAR  AGENTS 


Boulogne 

Agent, 

Havre   . 

Consul, 

Brest     . 

Cherbourg 

Cognac 

Agent, 
Consul, 

Limoges 
Lyons   . 
Marseilles 

Consul- Gen., 

Toulon 
Nantes  . 

Agent, 
Consul, 

Nice 

'  i 

Cannes  . 

Agent, 

1VJ.C11LU1IO 

Rheims 

.     Consul, 

ivouen  .         , 
Dieppe  . 

Agent, 

William  Whitman. 
James  E.  Dunning. 
A.  Pitel. 
Octave  Canuet. 
George  H.  Jackson. 
Engene  L.  Belisle. 
Hunter  Sharp. 
Alphonse  Gaulin. 
Francis  M.  Mansfield. 
Louis  Goldschmidt. 
William  D.  Hunter. 
J.  B.  Cognet. 
Achille  Isnard. 
William  Bardel. 
Charles  A.  Hohler. 
W.  Palmer-Sanborne. 


Germany 


Berlin 


.  Amdassador, 
"  .  Sec.  of  Embassy, 
"        .        Consul- General, 

Aix-la-Chajjelle     .      Consul, 

Bremen 

Brunsvv^ick 

Cologne 

Crefeld 

Dresden 

Diisseldorff 

Frankfort, 

Hamburg 

Leipsic 

Mannheim 

Mayence 

Munich     . 

Nuremberg 

Stuttgart 

Weimar 


Consul- General, 

Consul, 

Consul- General, 

i  I.  a 

Consul, 


David  J.  Hill, 
Irwin  B.  Laughlin. 
Alex.  M.  Thackara. 
Pendleton  King. 
William  T.  Fee. 
Talbot  J.  Albert. 
Hiram  J.  Dunlap, 
J.  E.  Haven. 
T.  St.  John  Gaffnej. 
Peter  Lieber. 
Richard  Giiputher. 
Robert  P.  Skinner. 


Consul-  General, 
Consul, 


Samuel  H,  Shank. 

R,  S.  S.  Berg. 
Thomas  W.  Peters. 
George  N.  Ifft, 
Edward  Higgins. 
W.  L.  Lowrie. 


OF  THE  UNITED  STATES 


473 


Great  Britain 


London  .    Ambassador, 

"  .  Consul-General, 
Liverpool  .  .  Consul, 
Belfast . 
Birmingham 
Kidderminster  .  Agent, 
Wolverhampton 
Bradford  .  .  Consul, 
Bristol 
Cardiff  . 
Cork  . 
Dublin 
Dundee 
Falmouth  .  .  Agent, 
Gibraltar  .  .  Consul, 
Glasgow 
Hull  . 
Leeds  . 
Malta  . 
Manchester 
Newcastle 
Nottingham 
Plymouth 
Sheffield 
Southampton 


Whitelavv'  Reid. 
John  L.  Griffiths. 
Horace  L.  Washington. 
Henry  B.  Miller. 
Albert  Halstead 
James  Morton. 
Edward  T.  Cresswell. 
Augustus  E.  Ingram. 
Homer  M,  Byington. 
Lorin  A.  Lathrop. 
Henry  S.  Culver. 
Edward  L.  Adams. 
W.  Stanley  Hollis. 
Howard  Fox. 
Richard  L.  Sprague. 
John  N.  McCunn. 
Walter  C.  Hamm. 
Benjamin  F.  Chase. 
William  H.  Gale. 
Church  Howe. 
Horace  W.  Metcalf. 
Frank  W.  Mahin. 
Joseph  G,  Stephens. 
Charles  N.  Daniels. 
Albert  W.  Swalm. 


Greece 

Athens  .         .         .  Minister,  George  H.  Moses. 

"       .        Consul- G-eneral,  George  Horton. 
Patras    .        .         .     Consul,  A.  Donaldson  Smith. 

Holland 

The  Hague    .         .  Mm  ister,  Arthur  M,  Beaupre. 
Amstei-dam   .         .      Consul,  Henry  H.  Morgan. 
Rotterdam    Consul- Qeyieral,  Soren  Listoe. 
Flushing       .         ,       Agent,  Pieter  F.  Auer. 


474     DIPLOMATIC  AND  CONSULAR  AGENTS 


Rome     . 


Florence 
Geiioa  . 
Leo'horn 
Milan  . 
Naples  . 
Palermo 
Venice  . 


Italy 

Ambassador,  John  C.  A.  Leishman. 
Sec.  of  Embassy,  John  W.  Garrett. 
Consul,  Chapman  Coleman. 
''        Jerome  A.  Quay. 
Consnl-General,  James  A.  Smith. 
Consul,  Ernest  A  Man. 
'■        Charles  M.  Caughy. 
"         C.  S.  Crowningshield. 
"        William  H.  Bishop. 
' '        James  Verner  Long. 


Christiania    .  Ilinister,  Herbert  H.  D.  PeircEo 

''  Consul- General,  Plenry  Borclewich. 

Consul,  Felix  S.  S.  Johnson. 


Portugal 

.  Minister,  Henry  T.  Gage. 
Consul- Greneral,  Louis  H.  Ayme. 

Agent,  William  H.  Stuve. 


Bergen  . 

Lisbon  . 

.  < 

Oporto  . 
Bucharest 


St.  Petersbin'g  Ambassador,  Wm.  W.  Eockhill. 

Sec.  of  Embassy,  George  P.  Wheeler. 
"  .         .      Consul,  Jacob  E.  Conner. 

Cojisul-General,  John  H.  Snodgrass. 
Consul,  Alex.  Heingartner. 
"         John  H.  Grout. 


Jlinister,  John  JR,.  Carter. 
Co7isul- General,  Roland  B.  Harvey. 


Moscow 
Batum  . 
Odessa  . 
Riga 

Vladivostok 
Warsaw 


Hernando  de  Soto. 
Lester  Maynard. 
Thomas  E.  Heenan. 


OF  THE  QNIIED  STATES 


475 


Spain 

Madrid  .         .  2Hnister,  William  M.  Collier. 

"  .         .      Consul,  Charles  L.  Hoover. 

Barcelona  Consul-General,  Frank  D.  Hill. 

Alicante  .         .       Agent,  Henry  W.  Carey. 

Seville  .  .         .      Consul,  Charles  S   Winans. 

Malaga  .         .  "'       Edward  J.  Norton. 

Valencia  .         .  "        Robert  Prazer,  Jr. 

Cadiz     .  ■  .         .       Agent,  James  Sanderson. 

Jerez  de  la  Frontera  Consul,  Percival  Gassett. 

Teneriffe  ,         .  "        Solomon  Berliner. 

Sweden 

Stockholm     .        ,  Minister^  Charles  H.  Graves* 
Consul- General^  Edward  D.  Wiuslow. 


Gothenburg 

.     Consul,  Stuart  J,  Fuller. 

Switzerland 

Berne    . 

.  Minister,  Laurits  S.  Swenson. 

(( 

Consul,  George  Heimrod, 

Basle     . 

"         George  Gifforcl. 

Geneva . 

"        Francis  B.  Keene. 

St.  Gall 

"         Dominic  I.  Murphy. 

Zurich.  . 

Consid- General,  Robert  E.  Mansfield. 

Turkey  and  Dominions 

Constantinople    Amtassad.,  Oscar  S.  Straus. 

"  Sec.  of  Emh.,  Henry  L.  Janes. 

"  Consul-Gen.,   Edward  H.  Ozmun. 

Aleppo  .         .     Consul,  Jesse  B.  Jackson. 

Alexandria    .         .  "        David  R.  Birch. 

Bagdad  .         .  "        Frederick  Simpich. 

Beirut  Consul-General,  Gabriel  Bie  RavndaL 

Cairo     .  "  "         Peter  Augustus  Jay. 

Jerusalem      .         .      Consul,  Thomas  R.  Wallace, 
Smyrna         Consul- General,  Ernest  L.  Harris. 


A  SHOHT  VOCABULARY 
IN  ENGLISH,  FRENCH 


One. 
Two. 
Three. 

Four. 
Five. 

Six. 

SeveiL 

Eight. 

Niue. 

Ten. 

Eleven. 

Twelve. 

Thirteen. 

Fourteen. 

Fifteen. 

"Sixteen. 

"Seventeen, 

Eighteen. 

-Nineteen, 

Twenty, 

Twenty-one. 

Twenty-two. 

Twenty-three,  etc. 

Thirty! 

Thirty-one. 

Thirty -two,  etc. 

Forty. 

Fiay. 

-Sixty. 

"Seventy. 


Un. 
Deux. 

Trois. 

Quatre, 

Cinq. 

Six. 

Sept. 

Huit 

^'eu£ 

Dix. 

Onze. 

Douze. 

Treize. 

Qnatorze. 

Quinze. 

Seize. 

Dix-sept. 

Dix-huit. 

Dix-neuf. 

Vingt. 

Vingt-et-un. 

Viiigt-deux. 

Viiigt-trois,  etc. 

T  rente. 

Trente-et-un. 

Trente-deux,  eto. 

Quarante. 

Cinquant-e. 

Soixante. 

Soixante-dix. 


OF  WORDS  AND  PHRASES 

GERMA:^^,  AKD  ITALIAN. 


Eins, 

Uno. 

Zwei. 

Due. 

Drei. 

Tre. 

Vier. 
Fiinf. 
Seclis. 

QuattrG.  " 

Cinque. 

Sei. 

Biebea. 

Sette. 

A-cbt. 

Otto. 

NeuTi. 

Nove. 

Zehn. 

Dieci. 

Elf. 

UndicL 

Zwolf. 

Dodici. 

Dreizehn. 

Tredici. 

Vierzehn. 

Quattordici. 

."Fiinfzelm. 
Sechzebn. 

Quindici. 

Sedici. 

Siebzehn. 

Diecisette;  diciasettc 

Acbtzeliu. 

Dieciotto ;  diciotto. 

Neunzehn. 

Diecinove;  diciaimoviS, 

Zwanzig. 

Venti. 

Eiu  Tind  zwanzig. 

Vent'  uno. 

Zwei  und  zwanzig. 

Venti  due. 

Drei  nnd  zwanzig,  etc. 

Venti  tre,  etc. 

Dreissig. 

Ein  und  dreissig. 

Trenta. 
Trent'  uno. 

?.wei  und  dreissig,  etc. 

Trenta  due,  eto. 

Vierzig. 
'ei'iinfzig. 
5echzig. 
Siebzig. 

Quaranta. 
Cinquanta. 
Sessanta. 
Settanta. 

478     WORDS  AND  PHRASES  IN  ENGLISH, 


Eighty. 

Ninetj 

A  hundred. 

Two  hundred,  etc. 

A  thousand. 

Eleven  hundred. 

Twelve  hundred. 

Two  thousand,  etc. 

A  million. 

The  first. 

The  second. 

The  third. 

The  fourth. 

The  fifth. 

The  sixth. 

The  seventh. 

The  eighth. 

The  ninth. 

The  tenth. 

The  elevfefltti. 

The  last. 

The  kst  bat  ona 

Once. 

Twice. 

The  half.. 

The  third. 

The  fourth. 

The  fifth. 

The  sixth,  etc 

A.  river. 

A  fountain. 

A  waterfall 

The  gate. 

An  hour. 

Half  an  hour. 


Quatre-vingt. 
Quatre-vingt-dii. 
Cent.      . 
Deux  cents,  etft. 
Mille. 

Onze  cents. 
Douze  cents. 
Deux  mille,  et6 
Un  millioa. 
Le  premier. 
Le  second. 
Lb  troisieme. 
Le  quatrieme. 
Le  cinquieme. 
Le  sixierae. 
Le  septieme. 
Le  huitierae. 
Le  neuvieme. 
Le  dixieme. 
Le  onzieme. 
Le  dernier. 
L'avant-demier, 
Une  fois. 
Deux  fo's. 
La  moitie.     Dem^ 
Le  tiers. 
Le  quart. 
Le  cinquieme. 
Le  sixieme,  etc 
Une  riviere. 
Une  fontaine. 
Une  cascade. 
La  porte. 
Une  heure. 
'  Une  demi-beure. 


I 


FRENCH,  GERMAN,  AND  ITALIAN.       47d 


Achtzig. 
Neunzig. 
Hundert. 
Zweiliundertj  etc. 
Taiiseiid. 
Elfhundert. 
Zwolf  hundert. 
Zwei  Tausend,  etc. 
Eine  Million. 
Der  Erste. 
Der  Zweite. 
Der  Dritte. 
Der  Vierte. 
Der  Eiinfte. 
Der  Sechste. 
Der  Siebente. 
Der  Aclite. 
Der  Neunte. 
Der  Zehnte. 
Der  Elfte. 
Der  Letzte. 
Der  Vorletzte. 
Einmal. 
Zweimal. 

Die  Halfte.     Halb. 
Das  Drittel. 
Das  Viertel. 
Das  Eiinftel. 
Das  Sechstel,  etc. 
Ein  Eluss. 
Ein  Brnnnen, 
Ein  Wasserfall. 
Das  Thor. 
Eine  Stunde. 
"Wne  halbe  Stnnde. 


Ottanta. 

Novanta. 

Cento. 

Duecento;  dugento,  etc. 

Mille. 

Mille  cento. 

Mille  dugento. 

Due  mila,  etc. 

Un  milione. 

II  primo. 

II  secondo. 

II  terzo. 

U  quarto. 

II  quinto. 

II  sesto. 

II  settimo. 

L'  ottavo. 

II  nono. 

II  decimo. 

L'undecimo;  decimo  pnifa*^ 

L'  ultimo. 

II  penultimo. 

Una  volta. 

Due  volte. 

La  meta,     MezzG 

II  terzo. 

II  quarto. 

II  quinto. 

II  sesto,  etc. 

Un  fiume. 

Una  fontana ;  una  foutCt 

Una  cascata. 

La  porta. 

Un'  ora. 

Una  mezz'  ora. 


WOEDS  AND  PHRASES   IN  ENGLISH^ 


A  quarter  of  an  hour. 

Sunday. 

Monday. 

Tuesday. 

Wednesday. 

Thursday. 

Friday. 

Saturday. 

A  holiday 

The  walls  of  the  town. 

A  monument. 

The  tower. 

A  church. 

The  cathedral,  minster. 

A  convent. 

A  chapel. 

A  palace.' 

The  town-hall. 

The  castle. 

The  theatre. 

The  custom-house. 

The  post-office. 

The  library. 

The  university. 

The  exchange. 

The  bank. 

A  square. 

A  bridge. 

A  shop. 

A  bookseller's  shop. 

A  coffee-house. 

An  inn ;  a  hotel. 

A  dining-house. 

A  furnished  room. 

Breakfast. 


Un  quart  d'heura 

Dimanche. 

Lundi. 

Mardi. 

Mercredi. 

Jeudi. 

Vendredi. 

Samedi. 

Un  jour  de  fete, 

Les  murs  de  la  viJUt 

Un  monument. 

La  tour. 

Une  eglise. 

La  cathedrale. 

Un  convent. 

Une  chapelle. 

Un  palais. 

L'hotel  de  ville. 

Le  chateau. 

Le  theatre. 

La  douane. 

Le  bureau  des  posters 

La  bibliotheque. 

L'universite. 

La  bourse. 

La  banque. 

Une  place. 

Un  ponfc. 

Une  boutique. 

Une  librairie. 

Un  cafe. 

Une  auberge ;  un  h6tel 

Un  restaurant. 

Une  chambre  garnie. 

Le  deieuner. 


FRENCH,   GERMAN,   AND  ITALIAN.       481 


Qiue  viertel  Stunde. 
Sonntag. 
Montag. 
Dienstag 
Mittwoch. 
Donnerstag. 
Freitag. 

Samstag;  Sonnabend. 
Bill  Feiertag;  eiii  Festtag. 
Die  Stadtmauern. 
Eiu  Denkmal. 
Der  Tliurm. 
Eine  Kirclie. 
Das  Miinster ;  der  Dom. 
Eia  Kloster. 
Eine  Kapelle. 
Ein  Palast. 
Das  Katlihaus. 
Das  Schloss. 
Das  Soliauspielhaus. 
Das  Zollliaus,  Mauthhaus. 
Die  Post. 
Die  Bibliothek. 
Die  Universitat 
Die  Borse. 
Die  Bank. 
Ein  Platz. 
Eine  Briicke. 
Ein  Kaufladen. 
Ein  Bucliladen. 
Ein  Kaffehaus. 
Ein  Gasthaus ;  ein  Gastliof. 
Ein  Speisehaus. 
Ein  mdblirtes  Zimmer. 
Das  Eriihstiick. 


Un  quarto  d'  ora. 

Domenica. 

Lmiedi. 

Martedi. 

Mercoiedi. 

Giovedi. 

Venerdi. 

Sabbato. 

Un  giorno  di  festa* 

Le  mura  della  citta. 

Un  monumento. 

La  torre. 

Una  chiesa. 

La  cattedrale. 

Un  convento. 

Una  cappella. 

Un  palazzo. 

La  casa  della  citfA. 

II  castello. 

11  teatro. 

La  dogana. 

L'  ujfizio  delle  poste. 

La  biblioteca ;  la  libreria. 

L'  universita. 

La  borsa. 

La  banca. 

Una  piazza. 

Un  ponte. 

Una  bottega. 

Una  libreria. 

Un  calfe. 

Un'  albergo ;  una  locanda 

Un  trattore. 

Una  stanza  mobigliata. 

La  colazione. 


482 


WOKDS  AND  PHRASES  IN  ENGLISH, 


Luncheon. 

Soup. 

Hoast-beef. 

Beef-steak. 

Yeal. 

Mutton. 

Pork. 

Eish. 

Eggs. 

Cake. 

Butter. 

Cheese. 

Beer. 

Ale. 

Sherrj. 

Ices. 

A  railway. 

An  express  train. 

That  is  true. 

I  believe  so. 

It  is  late. 

I  am  fatigued. 

I  am  thirsty;  I  am  hungry. 

It  is  time  to  set  off. 

That  is  not  true. 

I  did  not  understand. 

Who  is  it  ? 

What  are  you  doing  ? 

What  do  you  want  ? 

Where  are  you  ? 

Where  is  he  ? 

What  is  he  doing  ? 

Where  are  you  going  ? 

What  do  you  say  ? 


Une  collation. 

La  soupe. 

Du  boeuf  roti,  roast-beef 

Beef-steak. 

Du  veau. 

Du  mouton. 

Du  cochon. 

Le  poisson. 

Des  oeufs. 

Le  gateau. 

Le  beurre. 

Le  fromage. 

La  biere. 

L'ale. 

Le  vin  d'Oporto. 

Le  vin  de  Xeres. 

Les  glaces. 

Un  chemin  de  fe;. 

Un  train  de  vitesse. 

C'est  vrai. 

Je  le  crois. 

II  est  tard. 

Je  suis  fatigue. 

J'ai  soif ;  j'ai  faim. 

II  est  temps  de  partir. 

Cela  n'est  pas  vrai, 

Je  n'avais  pas  compris. 

Qui  est-ce  ? 

Que  faites-vous  ? 

Que  voulez-vous  ? 

Ou  etes-vous  ? 

Oil  est-il  ? 

Que  fait-il  ? 

Oil  allez-vous  ? 

Que  dites-vous  P 


FRENCH,   GERMAN,   AND  ITALIAN.        483 


Eine  Zwisclieu-Mahlzeit. 

Una  colazione. 

Die  Suppe. 

La  zuppa. 

Ochsenbraten. 

Dell'  arrosto  di  bue. 

Beef-steak. 

Beef-steak. 

Kalbfleisch. 

Del  vitello. 

Hammelfleisch. 

Del  castrato. 

Schweinefleisch. 

Del  majale. 

Der  Fisch. 

11  pesce. 

Eier. 

Delle  uova. 

Der  Kuclien» 

La  focaccia. 

Die  Butter. 

11  burro,  butiro. 

Der  Kase. 

11  formaggio. 

Das  Bier. 

La  birra. 

Das  Ale. 

Labirra  fattaconformento. 

Der  Portwein. 

11  vino  d'  Oporto. 

Xereswein. 

11  vino  di  Xeres. 

Das  Eis. 

I  sorbetti ;  i  gelati. 

Eine  Eisenbalin. 

Una  strada  ferrata. 

Eiii  Sclinellzug. 

Convoglio  celere. 

Das  ist  wabr. 

fe  vero.  • 

Icli  glaube  es. 

Lo  credo. 

Es  ist  spat. 

E  tardi. 

Icb  bin  miide. 

Sono  stracco. 

Ich  bin  durstig;  hungrig. 

Ho  sete ;  ho  fame„ 

Es  ist  Zeit  abzureisen. 

E  ora  di  partire. 

Das  ist  nicht  wahr. 

Cio  non  e  vero. 

Ich  verstand  uicbt. 

Non  aveva  capito. 

Wer  ist  es  ? 

Chie? 

Was  macben  Sie  ? 

Che  cosa  fate  ? 

Was  wollen  Sie  ? 

Che  cosa  volete  ? 

Wo  sind  Sie  ? 

Dove  siete  ? 

Wo  ist  er  ? 

Dov'  e  ? 

Was  macht  er  ? 

Che  cosa  fa  ? 

Wobin  gehen  Sie  ? 

Dove  andate  ? 

Was  sagen  Sie  ? 

Che  cosa  dite  ? 

484       WORDS  AND  PHRASES  IN  ENGLISH, 


Did  you  understand  me  ? 
Is  diiiner  ready  ? 
Is  it  time  to  go  ? 
Where  shall  we  go  ? 
When  shall  we  set  out? 
Are  there  any  letters  for 

me? 
Come  here. 
Make  haste. 
Tell  him  to  come. 

Take  care.     Stop. 
Not  so  quick. 
Speak  to  him. 
Do  what  I  tell  you. 

Go  away. 

Bring  up  the  carriage. 

Call    (wake)   me    at    five 

o'clock. 
Yesterday. 
To-day. 
To-morro*/» 
Every  da}. 
What  name  do  you  give  to 

that  dish  ? 
Bring  me  some  bread. 

Bring  me  a  glass  of  water. 

How  much  for  wine  ? 
What  is  the  name  of  it  ? 
At  what  hour  shall  we  ar- 
rive at  X  ? 


M'avez-vous  compris? 
Le  diner  est-il  pret  ? 
Est-il  temps  de  partir  P 
Oil  irons-nous  ? 
Quand  partirons-nous  ? 
Y  a-t-il  des  lettres  poixt, 

moi  ? 
Vfenez-ici. 
Depechez-vous. 
Dites-lui  de  venir, 

Prenez  garde.    Arretez. 

Pas  si  vite. 

Parlez-lui. 

Paites  ce  que  je  vous  dis* 

Allez-vous  en. 

Paites  avancer  la  voiture. 

ReveiUez-moi    a    cinq 

heures. 
Hier. 

Aujourd'hui. 
Demain. 
Tous  les  jours. 
Quel  nom  don^iez-vous    ^ 

ce  mets  ? 
Apportez-moi  du  pain. 

Apportez-moi     un    verre 

d'eau. 
Combien  le  vin  ? 
Comment  rappelez-vous? 
A  quelle  heure  arriverons- 

nous  a  X  ? 


FRENCH,   GEKMAN,   AND   ITALIAN.        485 


Haben  Sie  verstanden  ? 
1st  das  Mittagsessen  fertig  ? 
1st  es  Zeit  abzureisen  ? 
Wohin  sollen  wir  gelien  ? 
Wanu  sollen  wir  abreisen? 
Sind  Briele  fiir  mich  da  ? 

Kommen  Sie  hier. 

Beeilen  Sie  sich. 

Sagen   Sie  ihm,  er  moge 

kommen. 
Geben  Sie  Acht.     Halt. 
Nicht  so  sclmell. 
Sprechen  Sie  mit  ihm. 
Thun  Sie,  was  icli  Ihnen 

sage. 
Gelien  Sie  weg. 
Lassen  Sie  den  Wagen  vor- 

fahren. 
Wecken  Sie  mich  um  fiinf 

Uhr. 
Gestern. 
Heute. 
Morgen. 
Alle  Tage. 
Welcben  Namen  geben  Sie 

diesem  Gerichte? 
Bringen    Sie    mir    etwas 

Bi-od. 
Bringen  Sie  mir  ein  Glas 

Wasser. 
Wie  viel  fiir  den  Wein  ? 
Wie  heisst  er  ? 
Um  wie  viel  Uhr  werden 

wir  in  X  ankommen  ? 


Mi  avete  capito  ? 
h  pronto  il  pranzo  ? 
E  egli  ora  di  partire  P 
Dove  andremo  ? 
Quando  partn-emoP 
Ci  sono  lettere  per  meP 

Venite  qua. 
Spicciatevi. 
Ditegh  che  venga. 

Badate.     FermatevL 

Non  cosi  presto. 

Parlategli. 

Fate  quel  che  vi  dico. 

Andate  via. 

Fate  venir  avanti  la  cat* 

rozza. 
SvegUatemi  alle  cinque. 

leri. 

Oggi.  ^ 

Dimaui. 

Ogni  giorno. 

Come  cliiamate  questa  pie* 

tanza  ? 
Portatemi  del  pane. 

Recatemi  un  bicchier  d'ai*- 

qua, 
Quanto  costa  il  vino  ? 
Come  si  ehiama  ? 
A  cbe  ora  arriveremo  n(^ 

a  X  ? 


486     WORDS  AND  PHRASES  IN  ENGLISH, 


Wliat  railway  is  tliat  ? 

Is  it  more  expensive  ? 
At   what    hour   does    the 

steamboat  start  ? 
What  is  the  fare  ? 

Have  you  a  printed  tariff? 

Is  the  road  easy  to  find  ? 

How  far  is  it  to  X  ? 

What  is  the  usual  charge 

by  the  day  ? 
At  what  hour  does  it  start  ? 

Which  is  the  best  hotel  at 

X? 
Are  the  charges  moderate  ? 
Where  is  the  station  for  X  ? 
Is  this  the  train  to  X  ? 
How    soon    shall  we    be 

there  ? 
Stop,  coachman  !  we  wish 

to  get  out. 
When  must  I  be  ready  ? 

I  wish  to  see  the  landlord 

of  the  hotel. 
Where  is  the  water-closet  ? 
Bring  me  fresh  water. 

1  with  "^-o  have  breakfast 
(suppe3f^ 


Quel  est  ce  chemin  de  fer? 

Est-ce  plus  cher  ? 

A  quelle  heure  le  bateau  k 
vapeur  part-il  ? 

Quel  est  le  prix  du  pas- 
sage ? 

Avez-vous  un  tarif  im- 
prime  ? 

Trouve-t-on  facilement  le 
chemin  ? 

Combien  y  a-t-il  d'ici  a  X? 

Combien  donne-t-on  ordi- 

nairement  par  jour  ? 
A  quelle  heure  part-eUe  ? 

Quel  est  le  meilleur  hotel 

aX? 
Y  a-t-on  bon  marche  ? 
Oil  est  I'embarcadere  de  X? 
Est-ce  la  le  train  pour  X 1 
Quand  arriverons-nous  ? 

Arretez,  cocher !  nous  vou- 

lons  descendre. 
A  quelle  heure  faut-il  etre 

pret? 
Je  desire  parler  au  maitre 

de  Thotel. 
Oil  sont  les  lieux  d'aisance  ? 
Apportez  de  I'eau  fraiche. 

Je  desirerais  dejeuner  (sou- 
per). 


FRENCH,  GERMAN,  AND  ITALIAN 


487 


fWas  1st  das  fiir  erne  Eisen- 

bahii  ? 
1st  es  theurer  ? 
Um  "wie  viel  Uhr  falirt  das 

Dampfschiff  ab  ? 
Wie  viel  betragt  das  Passa- 

giergeld  ? 
Haben  Sie  einen  gedruck- 

teiiTarif? 
1st  der  Weg  leicht  zu  fin- 
den? 
Wie  weit  ist  es  von  hier 

nacli  X  ? 
Was  bezalilt  man  gewobn- 

licb  fiir  den  Tag  ? 
Um  wie  viel  Uhr  fabrt  er 

ab? 
Welches    ist     der    beste 

Gasthor  in  X  ? 
Ist  es  billig  dort  ? 
Wo  ist  der  Balmhof  nach  X? 
Ist  dies  der  Zug  nach  X? 
Wie  bald  werden  wir  dort 

sein  ? 
Halt,  Kutsclier  !  Wir  wol- 

len  aussteigen. 
Wann  muss  ich  fertig  sein  ? 

Icb  wiinsche  denHerrn  des 

Hauses  zu  sehen. 
Wo  ist  der  Abtritt  ? 
Bringen  sie  frisches  Was- 

ser. 
Ich  wiinsche  dasEriihstiick 

(das  Abendessen). 


Quale  h  questa  slrada  Telf* 

rata  ? 
h  piu  caro  ? 
A  die  era  parte  il  batello 

a  vapore  ? 
Quanto  costa  il  trasporto 

de'  passeggieri? 
Avete  una  lista  stampata. 

E  la  via  facile  a  trovarsi? 

Quanto  distante  e  X ...  da 

qui  ? 
Quanto  si  spende  al  giorno 

di  solito  ? 
A  che  era  parte  ? 

Qual  e  il  miglior  albergo  in 

X? 
Sono  i  prezzi  equi  cola  P 
Dov'  e  1'  imbarcatoio  di  X  ? 
E  quello  H  traino  per  X  ? 
Ci  arriveremo  presto  ? 

Fermatevi,  vetturino,  vo- 
gliamo  discendere. 

A  che  era  debbo  esser 
pronto  ? 

Yorrei  parlare  al  maestro 
di  casa. 

Dov'  e  la  ritirata  ? 

Portatemidell'  acquafresca. 

Vorrei  far  colazione  (ce- 
nare). 


488      WORDS  AND  PHRASES   IN  ENGLISH, 


Give  me  sometliiug  to  eat. 
At  what  hour  do  we  dine  ? 

Show  me  your  bill  of  fare 

and  list  of  wines. 
Bring  me  the  newspaper. 
Is  he  ready  ? 
Which  is  the  way  to  the 

post-office  ? 
How  much  is  the  postage  ? 
Send  that  letter  to  the  post. 

Where  does  a  banker  live  ? 
I  wish  to  see  a  medical  man. 

What  fee   should  I  give 

him  ? 
Can  I  have  a  warm  bath  ? 

Bring  me  some  soap. 
Order  a  hackney-coach  for 

me. 
Make  a  good  fire. 
How  much  have  I  to  pay? 

Bring  me  my  account. 

Turn    to    the   right,    left, 

straight  forward. 
How  much  is  charged  for 

admission  ? 
What    direction    must    I 

take? 
Can  I  have  dinner  ? 


Donnez-moi  quelque  chos6 

a  manger. 
A    quelle    heure    dinons. 

nous  ? 
Montrez-moi  la  carte. 

Apportsz-moi  le  journal. 

Est-il  pret  ? 
Pourriez-vous    m'indiquer 

la  poste  aux  lettres  ? 
Coaibien  pour  le  port  ? 
Faites  jeter  cette  lettre  a  la 

poste. 
Oil  demeure  un  banquier  ? 
Je  desire  voir  un  medecin, 

Combien  faut-il  lui  donner? 

Pourrais-je  avoir  un  bain 

chaud  ? 
Apportez-moi  du  savou. 
Faites-moi  venir  une  voi- 

ture  de  louage. 
Faites  un  bou  feu. 
Combien  dois-je  ? 

Apportez-moi  mon  compte. 

Prenez  a  droite,  a  gauche, 

marchez  tout  droit. 
Quel  est  le  prix  d'entree  ? 

Quelle  direction  faut-il  qug 

je  prenue  ? 
Pourrais-je  y  diner? 


I 


FRENCH,   GERMAN,   AND   ITALIAN.       489 


Geben  Sie  mir  etwas  zu 

esseii. 
Uin  wie  viel  Ulir  speisenwir 

zu  Mittag  ? 
Zeigeii  Sie  mir  den  Speise- 

zettel. 
Bringeu  Sie  mir  die  Zeituug. 
1st  er  bereit  ? 
Welches  ist  der  Weg  zur 

Post  ? 
Wie  viel  betriigt  das  Porto  ? 
Seuden  Sie  dieseu  Brief  zur 

Post. 
Wo  wolnit  eiu  Banquier  ? 
Ich  wiiusche  eiueii  Arzt  zu 

spreclieii. 
Wie  viel  Houorar  soil  ich 
-  ihm  gebeii  ? 
^ami  ich  eiu  warmes  Bad 

bekommen  ? 
Briugeu  Sie  mir  Seife. 
Bestellen    Sie     mir    eiue 

Lohnkutsehe. 
Macheu  Sie  eiu  gutesPeuer. 
Wie  viel  habe  ich  zu  be- 

zahlen. 
Briugeu  Sie  mir  die  Rech- 

iiuug. 
Geheu   Sie    recht«,   liuks, 

geradeaus. 
Wie  hoch  ist  der  Eiutritts- 

preis  ? 
Welche  Richtuug  muss  ich 

uehmeu  ? 
Kau  ich  das  Mittagsessen 

habeu  ? 


Datemi    qualclie    cosa 

uiangiare  ? 
A  che  ora  si  prauza  f 


da 


Mostrateuii  la  lista  e  la  notSb 

dei  viui. 
Portateuii  la  gazzetta. 
h  egli  all'  ovdhie  ? 
Potreste  iudicaruii  U  cam- 

niiuo  che  va  alia  posta  P 
Quauto  costa  il  porto  P 
Pate  portare  questa  letters 

alLi  posta. 
Dove  abita  uu  bauchiere  P 
Desidererei  parlare  con  un 

medico. 
Quauto  gli  debbo  dare  P 

Potrei    avere    iiu     baguo 

caldo  ? 
Portatemi  uu  po'di  sapoue. 
Ordiuatemi  una  carrozza  da 

nolo,  uu  fiacre. 
Pate  un  buon  fuoco. 
Quauto  vi  debbo  ? 

Portatemi  il  mio  conto. 

Si  Volga  a  destra,  a  sinistra, 

vada  diritto, 
Quauto  costa   il  biglietto 

d'iugresso  ? 
Qual  direzioue  devo  pren* 

dere  ? 
Potrb  avervi  il  prauxo  P 


490  ~  WORDS  AND  PHEASES  IN  ENGLISH, 


How  muclif 

Have  you  no  better  ? 

It  is- fine. 
It  is  very  hot. 
Does  it  rain  ? 
It  is  cold. 
Send  for  a  cab. 

Coachman,  drive  me  to  the 
station. 

Where  is  the  baggage- 
room? 

Please  to  give  me  tv^o  first- 
class  tickets  to  X. 

lere  tney  are. 
;y"hat  do  they  cost  ? 

At  what  hour  is   supper 

ready. 
That's  very  dear. 
Where  are  our  rooms  ? 

Have  any  letters  arrived  for 
Mr.  N.,  poste  restante? 
Here  is  my  passport. 
Is  breakfast  ready  ? 
Give  me  a  drink. 
What  o'clock  is  it  ? 
What  kind  of  weather  is  it  ? 
How  do  you  do  ? 
Yery  well,  I  thank  you. 
Have  you  a  room  to  let  ? 


Combien  ? 

N'avez-vous  rien  de  meil. 

leur  ? 
II  fait  beau. 
II  fait  tres  chaud. 
Pieut-il  ? 
II  fait  froid. 
Eaites  chercher  un  fiacre. 

Cocher,  conduisez-moi  au 

cliemin  de  fer. 
Oil  est  le  bureau   de  ba- 

gages  ? 
Deux  billets  de  premiere 

classe  pour  X,  s'U  vous 

plait. 
Voila,  monsieur. 
Combien  ces  billets  P 

A  quelle  heure  soupe-t-on? 

C'est  bien  cher. 

Oil  sont  nos  chambres  ? 

Y  a-t-il  des  lettres  poste  re- 
stante pour  Monsieur  !N .  ? 

Voici  mon  passeport. 

Le  dejeuner  est-il  servi  ? 

Donnez-moi  a  boire. 

Quelle  heure  est-il? 

Quel  temps  fait-il  ? 

Comment  vous  portez-vous  ? 

Eort  bien,  je  vous  remercie. 

Auriez-vous  une  chambre 
a  me  louer  ? 


p 


FRENCH,   GERMAN,   AND  ITALIAN.      491 


Wie  viel  ? 

Haben     Sie     niclits    Bes- 

seres  ? 
Es  ist  schon. 
Es  ist  sehr  heiss. 
Regnet  es  ? 
Es  ist  kalt. 
Lasseu  Sie  eine  Droschke 

liolen. 
Kiitscher,  faliren  Sie  micli 

nacli  der  Eisenbalm. 
Wo     ist     die     Gepackan- 

nahme  ? 
Ich  bitte  um  zwei  Billete 

erster  Klasse  nach  X. 

flier  siud  sie. 

WiQ  viel  kosten  sie  ? 

Um  wie  viel  Ulir  ist  das 

Abendessen  fertig  ? 
Das  ist  sehr  tlieuer. 
Wo  siiid  unsere  Zinimer  ? 

Sind   Briefe   angekommen 

far  Herrn  N.^ 
Hier  ist  mein  Pass. 
Ist  das  rriihstiick  fertig  ? 
Geben  Sie  mir  zn  triuken. 
Wie  viel  Uhr  ist  es  ? 
Wie  ist  das  Wetter  ? 
Wie  befinden  Sie  sicli  ? 
Sebr  wohl,  icli  daiike  Ilmen . 
Haben  Sie  ein  Zimmer  zii 

vermiethen  ? 


Quanto  ? 

Non  ne  avete  di  miglioref 

Fa  bel  tempo. 

Fa  caldissinio. 

Piove  ? 

Fa  freddo. 

Fate  cercare  un  fiacre. 

Cocchiere,  coi)ducetenii  alia 

strada  ferrata. 
Dov'  e  r  ufficio  deglieffettiP 

Due     biglietti    di     prima 
classe  per  X,  se  vi  place 

Ecco,  siguore. 

Quanto   avete  pagato  pe^i 

questi  biglietti  ? 
A  clie  ora  si  cena  ? 

E  carissimo. 

Dove  sono  le   uostre    ch 

mere  ? 
Vi  sono  lettere  per  il  Sig 

nor  N.  post  a  restante  ? 
Ecco  il  mio  passaporto. 
E  in  tavola  la  colazione  ? 
Datemi  da  bere. 
Che  ora  e  ? 
Che  tempo  fa  ? 
Come  sta? 

Benissimo,  la  ringrazio. 
Avrebbe   una   camera    d 

affittare  ? 


TRAI^ELLEES'    ±je3LE GRAPHIC   CODE. 


Before  maMng  ui^e  of  the  tvordf^  in  this  Code,  it  is  essential 
that  intending  users  should  satisfy  themselves  that  the  friends 
with  whom  thty  intend  to  correspond  have  in  their  possession 
'^e  same  edition  of  ihe  work  as  the  one  about  to  be  used. 

This  Code  is  intended  as  a  means  of  reducing  tlie  expense 
of  telegraphing.  A  single  woi'd  means  a  whole  sentence. 
A  copy  of  the  Code  should  he  left  with  the  person  at  home 
to  whom  telegrams  would  naturally  be  sent  (whose  name  and 
address  should  be  registered  at  the  local  telegraph-office). 
The  blank  ciphers  are  for  private  phrases,  to  form  a  personal 
Code  between  two  persons,  who  may  agree  upon  certain  sen- 
tences, and  write  them  carefully  in  their  two  books.  This 
Code  has  been  made  up  expressly  for  The  Complete 
Pocket-Guide. 

Almond Telegraph  to . 

Almost  Telegraph  as  soon  as  possibla 

Aloes  Telegraph  your  reply. 

Aloft   Telegraph  and  keep  us  well  posted. 

Aloof  Inform  us  hy  telegraph. 

Aloud. Telegraph  us  what  to  do. 

Air    Telegraph  if  you  do  not  understand  our  despatch. 

Ajar Cannot  understand  your  telegram.     Please  repeat. 

Akin  We  cannot  understand  tlie word  in  your  tele- 
gram.    Please  repeat  it. 

Alack The  word  you  do  not  understand  is  — — . 

Alarm    , . .  .Your  despatch  received. 

Agog   Answer  my  telegram  of— — . 

Agony .Answer  immediately  by  telegraph. 

Aided. Answer  by  telegraph  at  — -. 

Alter  Telegraphed  you,  but  have  no  reply. 

Alum  Have  you  received  our  telegram  of  —  ? 

Amaze    Have  received  your  telegram  of  — — . 

Amber  If  you  wish  to  communicate  with  me  by  telegrajrtl, 

do  so  at ,  before  — =-. 

Amboy  Please  advise  by  telegraph. 

Amen Get  despatch  at  telegraph  office. 

Amical  Before  despatch  received,  we  had  — — . 

Amidst ....Have  you  sent  us  a  despatch  to-day? 

Aniity- If  we  don't  telegraph  you  by  — — ,  you  may  con- 
clude — '■ 


I 


TBAVELLERS'  TELEGRAPHIC  CODE.   493 


Ample.  If  you  don't  telegraph  us  by  • ,we  shall  — 

Amplify What  is  reaBon  of  delay  in  reply  to  our  telegramf 

Amuse 

AnalogTT 

Anatomy .... 

Ancestor 

Anchor....... 

Ancient 

'    Andiron 

Anew 

Angrel   

Angry 

Animal ..... 

Animate 

^nkle 

Annals -- 

Annex 

Annul  

Appeal 

Apply 

.\pron •. 

Baby   Your  letter  of  —  is  recmveu. 

Sack    Your  letter  is  received. 

Bacon Send  letters  kere  untU  the— -«v 

Badly Send  letters  to  — -until  the— ^ 

Backstay Send  letters  care  of——. 

Badger We  write  you . 

BafQ.e  "We  wrote  you  last  maiL 

Bag  Will  write  you  at  once. 

Ball  Full  information  by  to-day's  maiL 

Bake     Have  sent  you  letter  by  to-day's  mau. 

Balcor  "t    Letter  was  sent. 

Bald Answer  by  mail 

Ballad  No  letter  to-day ;  telegraph  contents  if  inuiorfiaitl 

Balm   Have  received  no  letters  since         ^ 

Banjo Forward  no  letters  after  —^. 

Bandit   We  forwarded  letters  to  — «—  on  the  — — - 


494        TRAVELLERS'  TELEGRAPHIC  CODE. 

Banner Your  letter  of received  and  agreed  to. 

Banquet    Your  letter  of received  and  answered. 

Baron All  matter  to  date  has  been  forwarded. 

Bazar Have  you  any  mail  matter  on  hand  for  us  ? 

Beadle   Await  our  letter. 

Beast  We  have  advices  which,  in  our  opiuinof  may  cauge 

your  return  to -.    Where  will  a  lel^ey  s«on«*i 

reach  you? 

Beauty  We  have  written  you  fully  on  the  f  vt,it*'.<: 

Beckon What  is  reason  of  delay  in  replying  t,^  i-jw  let^  * 

Bed  

Beef 

Befog 

Beggar ,. 

Betide    ......... 

Bestow 

Betray 

Biceps   

Birch 

Blast  ....o 

Behead 

Behold  ..o...... 

Belay .....o 

Bench 

Belt ............. 

Bias e 

Biped  ....,.,..,« 

Birthday ....« 

Bishop 

Bivalve ......»« 

Blaci£iesr  —"» 

Blaze  


V 


TEAVELLERS*  TELEGRAPHIC  CODE.   495 


Cabin ...We  shall  return  at  once  hy  ——, 

Daboose   , ...We  shall  return  at  once  by  the  — — . 

Cadet We  shall  sail  for  home  on  the  — =-. 

Cage We  sail  — — . 

Dake  When  does — -sail? 

CJalico We  think  it  best  to  delay  departure. 

Calxa    ..We  think  it  best  to  delay  departure  until ——.    Ifao 

further  advice,  shall  leave  on  that  day  for         w 

Caloric   Cannot  leave' . 

Uameo    Cannot  leave  until  — — . 

Camp Cannot  leave  = .    Will  sail  by  next  steamsr* 

Janal Have  missed  steamer. 

Canary  Have  missed  steamer ;  will  sail  by  next, 

Candy When  does leave? 

Cane    Steamer  sails  on  . 

Jannon Sailing  postponed  until . 

Uanopy Tickets  lost;  send  duplicates. 

Canteen    ...Arrived  all  well;  pleasant  passage.    Tell  — -^ 
Canvass    ...Arrived  all  well,  but  stormy  passage.    TeU  — . 

Caper  Arr.  all  well;  pleasant  passage.  Shall  proceed  to        i . 

Caprice Arr.  all  well,  but  stormy  passage.   Shall proc.  to— «-•; 

Oapsize Arrived  all  well ;  have  written. 

Cap  sule Arrived  all  well.     Address  letters  to  — — . 

Captain Has arrived? 

Caramel    . .  .He  arrived  on  — — . 
Caravan    ...He  has  not  arrived. 

Carbon  Return  at  once. 

Card  Return  as  soon  as  possible. 

cardinal  ...Return  at  once.    Important  matters  demand  your  pres« 

ence  here. 
Careworn.  .Things  look  blue.  Unless  strong  reason  to  the  contraif, 
should  like  to  have  you  shorten  your  trip. 

Cargo You  need  not  return. 

Carmine  ...You  need  not  return  until . 

Catnip   You  must  be  here  by  the . 

Caxton  Impossible  to  return  untU— — , 

Cement Arrange  for  our  return. 

Central Cannot  return  unless . 

Chafe If  agreeable,  will  remain  — — . 

Chair  "When  wiU  you  return? 

Chancel    ..."V^hen  do  you  expect  to  be  hei-e  ? 

Chaos We  shall  be  with  you  by  the ——. 

Chapter  ....Secure  passage  by  this  steamer. 
Charcoal  ...We  shall  come  by  the  train  leaving  at     i «% 

Chariot .Wp  shall  arrive  at  this  station  bv  train  due  at  ^"^ 

Charity 

Charm 

Cherisli 


496 


TEAVELLERS'  TELEGRAPHIC  CODE 


Cider  ..... 
Cimeter. 
Cipher  .. 
Circuit  .. 


Citadel 


Clack 


CoU 


CoUc 


Confront  ... 

Dabble  Send  cable  transfer  for  — — ,  through  — -. 

Dabster Send  me  new  credit  for — — ,  through  — — . 

Dactyl  Remit  to  me  by  telegraph  through  — — . 

Daffodil  ....Remit  by  mail:  — 


Dagger £5 

Dainty 10 

Dale   15 

Dally  .   ........  20 

Damper  25 

Dance 30 

Dandy  35 

Dangling 40 

Daring 45 

Dark 5u 


Darkey  ......£55 

Dashed  60 

Daub 65 

Daylight 70 

Daytime 75 

Deacon  .» 80 

Deadeye ......  85 

Deaf  90 

Debased 95 

Debatable  ...100 


Debility  ...£I25 

Debut 150 

Decamp 175 

Decay 200 

Deceit 250 

Decide  300 

Decimal 400 

Declare 500 


Decrease  ...Remit  at  once. 

Deem  We  have  remitted. 

Deface Have  you  forwarded  remittance? 

Defeat  We  cannot  remit. 

Defection... We  cannot  remit  more  than  — — . 
Defence   ....We  send  draft  by  first  mail. 
Defiance  ....Will  honor  draft. 

Deform    Will  honor  draft  to  amount  of  — — . 

Defrayed  ..Will  you  honor  my  draft  r 

Deftly Will  you  honor  my  draft  to  amount  of 

Delve Please  prepay  passage  per . 

Demerit  ....Please  prejjay  passage,  and  telegraph  name  of  steamei. 
Dexnocrat-  •  Have  prepaid  your  passage  per ,  sailing  on  — ~^ 


TRAVELLERS'  TELEGRAPHIC  CODE.       4t91 

Demon  .....  Are  without  ftmds  j  aend  money  to  — — r 
bentist 

Ounce ' 

Damask  =..• 
Dastard  ...- 
Daughter .. 

Debris 

Destiny 

Deck 

Denizen 

Denote  .- 

Dense 

Depose  ..... 
Depress  ..... 
Derange .... 

Device ....... 

Dilute  ....... 

Disclose  .... 

Distress  .... 

Divan « 

Dock ^ 

Dome 

Dowdy 

Drab 

Drama 

Drill « 

Dress 

Drum 

E  agle In  conseqiience  of  illness  of  — -,  we  are  detained  hern. 

Send  letters  here  uutil  the         . 

lElartll — ■'—  is  better,  and  we  hope  to  leave  on  tlie  -"'j*. 

£iast —— ~  is  seriously  ill ;  will  advise  vou  again. 


■498        TRAVELLERS'  TELEGRAPHIC  CODE 

Ebony  —  is  sick,  but  not  dangerously. 

Echo  is  iiiiprovinji;  slowly. 

Edible  is  very  iiiucU  l)ei,ter  ;  no  need  of  your  retummg 

Editor  — -  is  no  better.     Would  eoiiie  home  at  once. 

Educate  .... is  in  a  critical  condition. 

Efface  •  is  rapidly  sinking. 

Effort — — ■  died  last  niglit. 

Eg'ress — —  died  yesterday. 

Elapse  died  to-day. 

Elaborate  .Please  e.icprcss  our  sympathy. 

Electric We  are  all  well,  and  there  is  no  need  of  your  retumiug 

Elevate  Hope  all  are  well. 

Enchant  . .  .AH  are  well. 

Elixir 

Elongate .,. 

Elope 

Eluded 

Empire 

Emiilate  ... 

Endow 

Engine 

Gadfly Stay  as  long  as  you  like.    Everything  is  as  it  should  he, 

and  all  are  well. 

Gaiter  Everything  sound,  and  doing  well. 

Galaxy We  propose  extending  tour. 

Gallant We  propose  extending  tour  to  — — .     It  all  right,  tel& 

graph. 

Game When  will  you  be  in  - —  ? 

Garden We  expect  to  reach  — -  by  ■ . 

Garrison  . . .  Will  meet  you  at . 

Gastric We  wish  to  know  where  you  can  be  met  between  no» 

and . 

Gazette    ...Do  as  yon  think  best. 

Gender Can  you  arrange? 

Genial  We  can  arrange. 

Geyser  We  cannot  arrange. 

Ghost Everything  satiafactorilv.air-«,^.£-eiL 


If 


TRAVELLERS'  TELEGRAPHIC  CODE        499 


Gimlet "We  think  it  advisable  to . 

Ginger  We  think  well  of . 

Girlhood  . .  .We  do  not  think  well  of  — — . 
Gladden  . . .  .Act  according  to  your  own  iudg;ment.. 
Glancing  ...Kow  is  business? 

Glass  Business  is  good.     Everything  all  right. 

Gleam  Auytlung  the  matter  ?  No  word  from  you  by  mail  or  wiw 

Glide  Send  us  word  at  once. 

Glinimer  ...Nothing  the  matter;  all  well.    Have  written. 

Glisten Do  nothing  until  you  hear  from  me. 

Glory Where  is  — —  ? 

Glue  Do  you  know  address  of  ? 

Goblin Address  of  party  is •. 

Goddess  .:.. Address  cannot  be  given. 
Gondola  . . .  When  did  you  send  — —  i 
Goodness  ..Have  you  done  so  ? 
Gotham  ....Have  you  done  anything  I* 

Gothic Keep  this  confidentiaJL 

Gouge ' 


Gout 

Govern 

Gown 

Grab .... 

Grade , 

Gradual .., 

Gram.niar.. 

Greedy 

Griet „ 

Grocer  ... 

Growl 

Grain.. 

Gruft .. 

Guard 

Guanc 

Tuide.. 


•••♦ 


INDEX. 


^BEVILLE,  166. 
Abbotsford,  94. 
Aberdeen,  83. 
Abergele,  31. 
Abo,  455. 
Adelsberg,  258. 
-ffitna,  Mount,  386. 
Aghadoe,  8. 
Agrani,  258. 
Ahrweiler,  225. 
Ailsa  Craig,  59. 
Airolo,  283. 
Aix-la-Chapelle, 

203. 

Aix-les-Bains,  440. 
Alatri,371. 
Albacete,  414. 
A.ll>ano,  366. 
Alessandria,  305, 
Alfort,  196, 
Algeciras,  421. 
Alicante,  414. 
Alio  way,  58. 
Alpnacii,  284. 
Althorp  Park,  125. 
Altorf,  282. 
Amalfi,  383. 
Ambleside,  45,  44. 
Amboise,  198. 
Ambras,  265. 

Aaaiens,  166. 

Amsteg,  362. 
Amsterdam,  215. 
Anagni,  371. 
Anagno,  Lake,  377. 
Ancoua,  328. 
Andermatt,  283. 
Andernach,  226. 
Anglesea,  27. 


221, 


Angoulfime,  439. 
Annan,  56. 
Annesley,  108. 
Antemnfe,  366. 
Antibes,  399. 
Antwerp,  211. 
Aosta,  295. 
Apennines,  328. 
Appian  Way,  363. 
Aqua  Acetosa,  365. 
Aquino,  371. 
Aranjuez,  426. 
Arbroath,  83. 
Arcachon,  439. 
Ardchattan,  74. 
Ai'drishaig,  79. 
Arenfels,  225. 
Arezzo,  338. 
Ariccia,  367. 
Aries,  401. 
Arnhem,  217. 
Arona,  299,  398. 
Arras,  166. 
Ashton,  10  i. 
Asni^res,  165. 
Assisi,  339. 
Assmannsliausen,  232. 
Athlone,  23. 
Auburn,  23. 
Augsburg,  266. 
Avernus,  Lake,  378. 
Avignon,  403. 
Avoca,  Vale  of,  30. 
Awe,  Loch,  78. 
Ayr,  58. 

BacharacHj  231. 
Badajos,  434 
Bade'n-Baden,  273. 
BaggMge,  xii. 
"^aia,  J78. 


Baireuth,  270. 

Balearic  Isles,  409. 

Ballater,  84, 

Balmoral,  84. 

Balquhidder,  73. 

Bamberg,  270. 

Banavie,  76. 

Bangor,  38,  36. 

Bannockburn,  81. 

Barbizon,  197. 

Barcelona,  406. 

Baslf,  374. 

Bassenthwaite.  53. 

Bath,  157. 

Battle  Abbey,  155. 

Bayonne,  433. 

Baziascli,  256. 

Bedford,  125, 
Belcaro,  339. 

Belfast,  25. 
Belgium,  201. 
Belgrade,  256, 
Bellaggio,  300. 
Bellinzona,  379. 
Belvoir  Castle,  107. 
Ben  Ledi,  72,  73, 
Ben  Lomond,  70. 
Ben  Venue,  71,  72. 
Bergamo,  307. 
Bergen,  448. 
Berlin,  341. 
Bernardino  Pass,  379. 
Berne,  387. 
Bernese  Oberland,385i 
Bernina  Pass,  380. 
Besangon,  404 
Beverley,  103. 
Biarritz,  433. 
Bienne,  391. 
Bingen.  233. 


f 


INDEX 


501 


Birmingham,  ix/,  124. 
Black  forest,  272,  273. 
Blaruey  Castle,  4. 
Blois,  197. 
Blue  Grotto,  382. 
Bologna,  322. 
Bonn,  222. 
Boppard,  230. 
Bordeaux,  437. 
Bordighera,  396. 
Borromeaa  Isles,  299. 
Boston,  106. 
Bothwell,  68. 
Bougival,  194. 
Boulogne,  161. 
Bowness,  45. 
Bozen, 265. 
Bracciano,  370. 
Bradford,  103. 
Braemar,  84. 
Bray,  20. 
Bremen,  239. 
Brenner  Pass,  265. 
Brescia,  307,  305. 
Brest,  168. 
Brieg,  296. 
Brienz,  284. 
Brighton,  155. 
Evindisi,  328 
Bristol,  158. 
Britannia  Bridge,  27. 
Broek.  217. 
Bruck,  258. 
Bruges,  207. 
Briinig  Pass,  284. 
Brunswick,  238. 
Brussels,  204. 
Bucharest,  257- 
Budapest,  255, 
Bulgaria,  257, 
Burgos,  433. 
BiitC;  79. 
Buttermere,  ^2. 
Cadeijabbia,  301. 
Cadiz,  421. 
Caen, 167. 
Caernarvon,  29. 
Calais,  161. 
Caledonian  Canal  76. 
Sallauder,  73. 


Camaldoli,  337. 
Cambridge,  123. 
Canipagna,  The,  364. 
Cannes,  398. 
Cannstadt,  267. 
Canossa,  325. 
Canterbury,  160. 
Capellen,  229. 
Capri,  382. 
Capua,  371. 
Cardilf,  158. 
Cardross,  67,  69. 
Carlisle,  55. 
Carlsbad,  249. 
Carlsruhe,  272. 
Carrara,  392. 
Caserta,  381. 
Cashel,  14. 
Cassel,  238. 
Cassino,  371. 
Castel,  235. 
Castellaniare,  381. 
Castel  Gandolfo,  367. 
Catania,  385. 
Canb,  231. 
Cauterets,  437. 
Cawdor  Castle,  78. 
Certosa,  La,  304,  337. 
Cesena,  327. 
Cette,  406. 
Chalons,  200. 
Chambord,  198. 
Chamounix,  293. 
Chantilly,  195. 
Charleroi,  202. 
Charlottenburg,  245. 
Cliartres,  168. 
Chateau  Thierry,  199. 
Chatham,  160. 
Cliatillon,  197. 
Chatsworth,  109. 
Chaumont,  198. 
Chaudfontaine,  203. 
Chenonceaux,  198. 
Cherbourg,  167. 
Chester,  32. 
Chiavenna,  279. 
Chiemsee,  261. 
Chillon,  291. 
CUioggia.  320. 


Chiswick,  154. 
Ciiristiania,  445. 
Civita,  Vecchia,  389. 
Clarens,  2'»i. 
Cloyne,  5. 
Coblence,  227. 
Cuburg,  240. 
Coimbra,  435, 
Coire,  278. 
Colchester,  154. 
Col  de  Balme,  292. 
Colcraine,  24. 
Colico,  301,  279. 
Cologne,  218. 
Conio,  Lake,  300. 
Conipiegne,  196. 
Coniston  Lake,  46. 
Conneniara,  23. 
Constance,  275. 
Consiils,  xviii. 
Conway,  29. 
Copenhagen,  441. 
Coppet,  290. 
Cora  Linn,  68. 
Cordova,  415. 
Cork,  3. 

Cornice  Road,  395, 
Correggio,  325. 
Cortona,  338. 
Coventry,  112. 
Cracow,  257. 
Cremona,  310,  305. 
Ci'onstadt,  456. 
Culloden,  78. 
Cumae,  378. 
Daemstabt,  27S. 
Delft,  213. 
Denmark,  441. 
Derby,  108. 
Derbyshire,   Peak  o^ 

108. 
Derwentwater,  52i 
Dieppe,  161, 
Dijon,  198. 
Dinan.  168. 
Dissciitis,  279. 
Domo  d'  Ossola,  288. 
Douai,  201. 
Dover,  161. 
.Drac>>eniel3.223. 


502 


INDEX. 


Dresden,  M&. 
Drogheda,  20. 
Drontlieimj  447. 
Dryburgh  Abbey,  94. 
Dublin,  14, 
Dulwich,  153. 
Dumbarton,  66. 
Dumfries,  56. 
Dunblane,  81. 
Dundee,  83. 
Dunkeld,  83. 
Dunottar  Castle,  83. 
Durham,  95. 
Diisseldorf,  218. 
Eastbourne,  155. 
Eaton  Hall,  35. 
Eaiix-Bonnes,  437- 
Eaux-Chaudes,  437. 
Ecclefechan,  55. 
Eddystone  Light,  159. 
Edenhall,  54. 
Edinburgh,  85. 
Ehrenbreitstein,  238. 
Ehrenfels,  233. 
Eisenach,  239. 
Elsinore,  444. 
Elstow,  125. 
Eltville,  234. 
Ely,  123. 

Emmerich,  217,  218. 
Ems,  228. 
Engadine,  279. 
Enghien,  195. 
England,  32. 
Erfurt,  240. 
Ermenonville,  196. 
Escurial,  429. 
Esthwaite,  44. 
Eton,  151. 
Etretat,  162. 
Evora,  436. 
Evreux,  167. 
E-eter,  159. 
Eaenza,  327. 
Faro,  436. 
F6camp,  162. 
Ferentmo,  371. 
Eerney,  289. 
Ferrara,  321. 
Fiesole,  337. 


Florence,  329. 

Fliielen,  282. 
Folkestone,  160. 
Foligno,  339. 
Fontainebleau,  196. 
Foiii,  337. 
Fort  Augustus,  77. 
Fountains  Abbey,  97. 
France,  Northern,  161. 
France,  Southern,  397- 
Frankfort,  336. 
Frascati,  368. 
Freiburg,  273,  288. 
Frejus,  399. 
Frosinone,  371. 
Frutigen,  287. 
Fulda,  239. 
Furca  Pass,  383. 
Furness  Abbey,  43. 
Filrstenberg,  332. 
G-ALWAY,  23. 

Garda,  Lake   of,   301, 

303. 
Gastein,  260. 
Gemrai  Pass,  287. 
Geneva,  289. 
Genoa,  393. 
Genzano,  367. 
Germany,  318. 
Gerona,  406. 
Ghent,  209. 
Giants'  Causeway,  24. 
Gibraltar,  420. 
Giessbach,  385. 
Girgenti,  389. 
Giurgevo,  257. 
Glamis  Castle,  83. 
Glasgow,  60. 
Glastonbury,  153. 
Glen  Fruin,  67. 
Gorner  Grat,  295. 
Gotha,  240. 
Gothenburg,  445. 
Granada,  417. 
Granville,  167. 
Grasmere,  50. 
Gratz,  258. 
Greenock,  67,  80. 
Greenwich,  153. 
Grimsel  Pi.ss,  283. 


Grindelwald,  385. 
Grotta  Ferrata,  368i 
Haaelem,  215. 
Hague,  The,  ^13. 
Hal,  201. 
Halle,  241. 
Hamburg,  339,  441. 
Hamilton,  67. 
Hammerfest,  448. 
Hammerstein,  226. 
Hampstead,  153. 
Hampton  Court,  152.? 
Hanover,  238. 
Harrogate,  98. 
Harrow,  154. 
Hastings,  155. 
Havre,  162. 
Haworth,  103. 
Heidelberg,  370. 
Helensburgh,  67. 
Helvellyn,  51. 
Herculaneum,  379. 
Highgate,  153. 

Highlands,      ScottisUi 

68. 
Holland,  212. 

Holyhead,  27. 

Homburg,  237. 

Hotels,  XX. 

Hull,  103. 

Hy&res,  399. 

Innsbkuck,  264. 

Interlaken,  285. 

Inverary,  70. 

Inverness,  78. 

Inversnaid,  71,  69. 

lona,  76. 

Ireland,  1,  26. 

Iron  Gates,  257. 

Irongray,  57- 

Irun,  433. 

Ischia,  383. 

Ischl,  260. 

Iseo,  301. 

Isola  Bella,  299. 

Italy,  297. 

Jerez,  422. 

Johannisberg,  233. 

Julier  Pass,  279. 

Jungfrau,  286. 


INDEX. 


503 


Kaa^jEhsteg,  287. 
Kasan  Defile,  257. 
Katrine,  Loch,  71. 
Kelhoini,  269. 
Kenil  worth,  114. 
Keswick,  52,  53, 
Kew,  152. 
Kidderminster,  111. 
Killarney,  6,  10, 
Kingstown,  21. 
Kouiorn,  255. 
Konigsstuhl,  230,  271. 
Konigswinter,  223. 
Konigstein,  248. 
Kreuznach,  233. 
Laach,  226. 
Laekeii,  206. 
Lahueck,  230. 
Laibach,  258. 
Lanark,  68. 
Lausanne,  288,  199. 
Leamiiigton,  121. 
Lscco,  301. 
Leeds.  i02. 
Le^-hor.,,  389. 
Leipsic,  ,240. 
Leith,  91, 
Lemberg,  257. 
Lerida,  411. 
Lerins,  Isles  of,  399. 
Letter  of  Credit,  ix. 
Leuk,   Baths  of,   287, 

296. 
Leyden, 215. 
U^ge,  202. 
Lille,  202. 
Limerick,  13. 
Lincoln,  105. 
Link  oping,  444. 
Linlithgow,  82. 
Linz,  225,  259. 
Ijisbon,  434. 
Lisieux,  167. 
iLiiverpool,  36,  viii. 
Lland^fF,  158. 
Locarno,  299. 
liodorc,  52. 
Lomond,  Locii,  65f. 
i.'Ondoh,  :28. 
LoiilondciTy,  '^5. 


Lorch,  233. 
Louvain,  207. 
Lucca,  392. 
Lucerne,  280. 
Lugano,  300,  279. 
Luino,  299. 
Lund,  444. 
Lurlei,231. 
Luxembourg,  204. 
Lyons.  403. 
Macon,  199. 
Madrid,  426. 
Magdeburg,  238. 
Maggiore,  Lake,  298. 
Majorca,  409. 
Malaga,  419. 
Malaniocco,  320. 
Malmaison,  194. 
Malmo,  444. 
Manchester,  104. 
Mannheim,  271. 
Mantes,  165. 
Mantua,  310. 
Marburg,  238. 
Margate,  154, 
Marino,  368. 
Marksburg,  230. 
Marly,  195. 
Marseilles,  399,  297. 
Martigny,  292. 
Matterhoru,  295. 
Mauchline,  57. 
Mayence,  234. 
Maynooth,  22. 
Meaux,  199. 
Mechlin,  210. 
Meiringen,  284. 
Melrose,  93. 
Menaggio,  300. 
Menai  Bridge,  28. 
Mentone,  397. 
Mer  de  Glace,  293. 
Messina,  384, 
Metz,  233. 
Meudon,  197. 
Milan,  302. 
Minorca,  409. 
Miramar,  259. 
Modena,  324,  310. 
Monaco  397. 


Money,  xv. 
Monreale,  388. 
Mons,  201. 
Monserrat,  408. 
Mont  Blanc,  293. 
Monte  Cenis,  297. 
Monte  Rosa,  295. 
Montgomerie,  58. 
Montmdrencv,  195. 
Montpellier,  405. 
Montrose,  83. 
Morat,  Lake,  291. 
Moscow,  460, 
Moselle  River,  228. 
Mouse  Tower,  233. 
Mt.  St.  Michel,  167, 
Munich,  261,  310,  249, 
Murano,  320, 
Murren,  286, 
Naiun,  78. 
Namur,  202. 
Nancy,  200. 
Naples,  370. 
Narbonne,  406. 
Nemi,  Lake,  367. 
Neuchatel,  291. 
Neiiwled,  226. 
Newark,  107. 
Newcastle,  95, 
Newmarket,  124. 
Nice,  398. 
Niederwald,  233. 
Niederwerth,  227. 
Nijni-Novgorod,  463. 
Nlmes,  401. 
Nisida,  377. 
Nonnenwerth,  324. 
Northampton,  125. 
Norway,  445. 
Nottingham,  107. 
No  vara,  306. 
Nuremberg,  267, 
Oban,  74, 78. 
Ober-Ammergau,  264 
01)erwesel,  231. 
Ocean  Voyage,  viL 
Odessa,  462. 
Oporto,  436. 
Orange,  403. 
Orleans,  197. 


604 


INDEX. 


Orta,  301. 
Orvieto,  338 
Ostend,  207 
Ostia,  370. 
Otranto,  328. 
Oxford,  125. 
Padua,  311. 
PiKstum,  383. 
Palermo,  387. 
Palestrina,  369. 
Palma,  409. 
Paris,  168 
Parma,  324. 
Passports,  ix. 
Pau,  436. 
Pavia,  305. 
Perpi2;nan,  406. 
Perth;  82. 
Perugia,  338. 
Pesaro,  327. 
Peschiera,  301,  308. 
Pesth,  255. 

Peterborough,  121, 106. 
Pfalz,  231. 
Piaoenza,  310,  305. 
Pierrefonds,  196. 
Pillnitz,  247- 
Pisa,  390. 
Pistoja,  328, 
Plymouth,  159. 
Poitiers,  440. 
Pompeii,  379. 
Pontresina,  280. 
Port  Mahon,  409. 
Portsmouth,  156. 
Portugal,  434. 
Posilippo,  376. 
Potsdam,  245. 
Pozzuoli,  377. 
Prague,  248. 
Presburg,  255. 
Procida,  382,  383. 
queenstown,  2. 
Ragatz,  277. 
■Railways,  xvi. 
Rarasgate,  154 . 
Rapperschwvl,  277. 
Ratisbou,  26'9. 
Ravel  lo,  383. 
Ravenna,  325. 


Reggio,  325,  384. 
Remagen,  225. 
Renfrew,  66. 
Rheims,  199. 
Rheineck,  226. 
Rheinfels  230. 
Rheinstein,  232. 
Rliense,  230. 
Rhine,  222. 
Rhone  Glacier,  283. 
Richmond,  152. 
Righi,  The,  281. 
Rimini,  327. 
Ripon,  97. 
Riva,  302. 
Rochester,  159, 
Rolaudseck,  224. 
Rome,  340. 
Roslin,  92, 
Rothesay,  79. 
Rotterdam,  212. 
Roubaix,  202. 
Rouen,  163. 
Roveredo,  265,  310. 
Rovigo,  321. 
Rowardennan,  69. 
Riidesheim,  233. 
Rueil,  194. 
Rugby,  12L 
Russia,  455. 
Rustchuck,  257. 
Rydal,  49. 
Rydc,  1.57. 
Saot^ntum,  412. 
St.  Albans,  154. 
St.  Andrews,  83. 
St.  Bernard  Pass   294. 
St.  Cloud,  193. 
St.  Denis,  195. 
■^t.  Germain,  194. 
St.  Goar,  230. 
St.  Golhard  Pass,  280, 

279 
St.  Malo,  168. 
St.  Maurice,  292. 
St.  Moritz,  280. 
St.  Petersburg,  456. 
St.  Quentin,  201. 
St.  Thf'odule  Pass,  295. 
Salerno,  383. 


Salisbury,  156. 

Salzburg,  259.  ^  1 

Salzkaniinergut,  260,       B 

San  Manno,  327,  ^  ' 

San  Renio,  395. 

San  Sebastian,  433. 

Santarem,  434. 

Saragossa,  410. 

Savona,  395. 

Saxon    Switzerland. 

247- 
Sa.von-les-Bains,  295. 
Sceaux,  197. 
Schaffhausen,  275. 
Scheveningen,  214. 
Schiedam,  213. 
Schonbrunn,  254. 
Scotland,  56. 
Sebastopol,  462. 
Sedan,  200. 
Semmering  Pass,  25S» 

298. 
Servia,  256. 
Seville,  422, 
Sevres,  194. 
Sheffield,  105. 
Sicily,  384. 
Siena,  3.39. 

Simplou  Pass,  295, 294, 
Sion,  295. 
Solfatara,  377. 
Solferino,  308. 
Sorrento,  381. 
Southampton,  156. 
Spa,  203. 
Spain,  405. 
Spezia,  La,  393,  325. 
Spires,  271. 
Spliisren  Pass,  37?'. 
Staffa,  75. 
Stahleek,  231. 
Staubbach,  286. 
Steamships,  x. 
Stirling,  80. 
Stockholm,  449. 
Stolzenfels,  229. 
Strasbourg,  272,  200. 
Stratford-on- Avon,  118, 
Stut.tgart,  266. 
Subiaco,  369. 


INDEX. 


505 


dweden,  449. 

Switzerland,  274. 
Syracuse,  38G. 
Taormina,  385. 
Taranto,  328. 
Tarascon,  403. 
Tarragona,  413. 
Teplitz,  349. 
Temi,  339. 

ThrasYmene  Lake,  338. 
Throndhjem,  447. 
Tlmn,  Lake  of,  286. 
Tivoli,  368. 
Toledo,  430. 
Torcello,  321. 
Torquay. 159 
Tortosa,  412. 
Toulon,  399 
Toulouse,  439, 
Tours,  198. 
Trent,  26",  310. 
Treves,  339. 
Trouville,  1()3. 
Trieste,  331,  258. 
Trossachs,  The,  71. 


Tunbridge  Wells,  155. 
Turin,  305, 
Tusculum,  368. 
Tyrol,  364. 
Ullswater,  48. 
Ulm,  266. 
Upsala,  454. 
Url)ino,  328. 
Utrecht,  217. 
Valence,  403. 
Valencia,  412. 
Valenciennes,  201. 
Valladolid,  432. 
Vallombrosa,  337. 
Vaucluse,  403. 
Velletri,  371. 
Venice,  313,  307. 
Verona,  308,  307 
Versailles,  191. 
Vesuvius,  379. 
Vevav,  291. 
Via  Mala,  278. 
Vicenza,  311. 
Vifhv,  440. 
IVieiiua,  250. 


Vienne,  403. 
Vincennes,  181. 

Vi^ALES,  27. 

Walhalla,  The,  269. 
Wallenstadt,  Lake,  277. 
Vl^artburg,  239. 
Warwick,  116. 
Waterloo,  206. 
Weimar,  240. 
Wells,  158. 
Wiesbaden,  237,  234. 
V/isfht,  Isle  of,  157. 
Wifdbad  Gastein,  260. 
Wilhelmshohe,  238. 
Winchester,  156. 
Windermere,  44,  45- 
Windsor,  151. 
Worcester,  112. 
Wo  rail  s,  371. 
Wiirzburg,  270. 
YoEK,  98. 
Yverdon,  291. 
Zaandam,  217. 
Zerniatt,  295. 
Zurich,  276,  2^ 


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