■:;s^?t
"M
THE COMPLETE
POCKET-GUIDE
TO
EUROPE
EDITED BY
EDMUND C. STEDMAN
AND
THOMAS L. STEDMAN
NEW YORK
WILLIAM R. JENKINS CO,
48th St. and Sixth Ave.
LONDON
BAILLIERE, TINDALL & COX
8 Henrietta Street, Strand
1910
Unij . I, lit lUUii, by William H. JtNK
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Copyright, 1898,1899, 1905. by William E. Jenkins
Copyright, 1907, 1908, 1910, William R. Jenkins Co.
All Bights Reserved
Cl.Ag6580i
Printed by thb
Press of William R. Jenkins Co.
New York
NOTE BY THE EDITORS.
THIS book has been for many years before the ^
;^ lie, and is thoroughly tested by increasing us©
among travellers through the portions of Europe gen-
erally covered in a single tour. It resulted from ob-
servation of the trials undergone by those equipped
with the larger and. more cumbrous handbooks. We
devised the Pocket Guide because such a work was
sorely needed, and no one else undertook this practi-
cal service. The ends desired were : 1. Fuller and
better arranged details of Routes, Points of Interest,
Fares, Hotels, Currency, etc., than are given in
many books of greater proportions. 3. Legible type
and good maps. 3. A real Pocket Guide, so com-
pact as to be carried in a man's coat or hip pocket,
or in a woman's dress-pocket or muff .
The work has been revised from year to year, and
to an average of coi-rectness at least equal to that of
any other condensed guidebook. New maps and
other improvements have been added. The vrlume
however, has been rigidly kept within its original
size. We believe that the Pocket Guide is as near
what it claims to be as editorial diligence can makQ
it, and trust that it now, more than ever, will add to
the comfort of travellers from our own and othe?
English-speaking countries.
The Editors.
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ABBREVIAl'IONS.
M. .... Mile, or miles,
ft. ....Feet.
in Inches.
sq. . , , . Square.
N. .... North,
S. .... South.
E East.
W. .. . . . West.
r. Right (handX
1. .... . Left (hand).
rly. . . . Railway.
Stat. . . . Station.
ch. ... Church,
hr. „ , , , Hour,
min. . . . Minutes.
£ Pounds sterling.
a. . . < . Shilling, or shillings
k. , , . Krone.
d. . . . .
fr. ....
c* • « «
fl. ....
mk.,mks
pf. .
kr.
L ..
r. . .
Sun.
Mon.
Tues.
Wed.
Thurs.
Fri.
Sat.
Penny, or penca
Franc, or francs.
Cents, centimes, orc«a
tesimi.
Florin or florins.
. Mark, marks.
Pfennige.
Kreutzers.
Lira, or lire.
Reales.
Sunday.
Monday.
Tuesday.
Wednesday.
Thursday.
Friday.
Saturday.
The names of the most important towns, buildings, and collections
are printed in full-faced type. Other notable places and objects,
©f less importance, have titles in italics.
In many cases, as of churches and public buildings, conspicuous
events, etc., the date of erection or of occurrence is placed directly
after, in parentheses.
Statements which have for many years been regarded locally as
Unchallengeable facts (e. g., the preservation of the heads of St
Peter and St. Paul in the Lateran Basilica, Rome), are repeated in
Ibese pages without comment.
CONTENTS.
Page
Tabt^e ov Moneys iv
Abbreviations vi
A Chapter on Travel vii
Arrangements for the Journey viii
Steamships— The Ocean Journey x
Money, etc xv
Railway Travel xix
Hotel Expenses, etc. xx
Golfing— Cycling xxv
Automobile Regulations xxvii
Customs Regulations xxx
Ireland , 1
Killarney— The Lakes 6
Dublin 14
Belfast, Giant's Causeway, etc 33
North Wales 27
England (Chester) 33
Liverpool 36
English Lake District 42
Scotland (The Land of Burns) 56
The Scottish Highlands 68
Stirling, Perth, Aberdeen 80
Edinburgh, Melrose, Abbotsf ord 85
England (Newcastle, Durham, York) ,...,.... 95
Manchester, Lincoln, Derby 103
Coventry, Warwick, Stratford 113
London 128
Excursions in Southern England 151
Routes to the Continent 159
Northern France 161
Paris 168
Routes from Paris to Switzerland 198
CONTENTS
Belgium 201
Brussels and Environs 304
Ghent, Bruges, Antwerp, etc 207
Holland 212
grermany and austria 218
Up the Rhine Iby Steamer 223
Berlin 341
Dresdren and Prague 246
"V^ienna 350
Southeastern Europe 255
Munich and the Tyrol 261
Switzerland (Basle, Zurich) 274
Lucerne, Righi, St. Gothard 280
Berne, Freiburg, Lausanne, Geneva , 387
Chaniounix and Mont Blanc 29^
St. Bernard and Simplon Passes 294
Italy (Routes into Italy) 297
The North-Italian Cities 303
Florence 329
Rome 340
Naples, Pompeii, Sorrento, Capri 370
Sicily ; 384
Southern France (Nice, Marseilles) , 397
Aries, Nimes, Avignon, Lyons 401
A Round Trip in Spain 405
Portugal 434
A Tour in the North 441
Norway and Sweden 445
Russia 455
Alphabetical Table of Health Resorts 463
Diplomatic and Consular Agents of the U, S, 471
Travel-Phrases in Four Languages 476
Travelers' Telegraphic Code 493
Index 500
THE COMPLETE
POCKET-GUIDE TO EUROPE.
A CHAPTER ON TRAVEL.
riOURTEOUS READER,— When you have laid
aside you prejudices, donned your garments of
travel, and set your foot upon the gang-plank of the
steamer bound for Europe, it will not be our fault if
you discover that you have forgotten something. If
you have bought this our little book, and read this
preliminary chapter, you will depart for foreign lands
with all your preparations properly made.
This Guide describes, as minutely as possible within
the limits of a "handy volume," a continuous tour
through Northern, Middle, South-eastern, and
Southern Europe. The writers hope and believe that
if you follow exactly the routes which they de-
scribe from the first to the last page of the book,
yon will have seen intelligently, at a minimum of
cost and inconvenience, the most interesting sections
of Europe, and all within four months. By suppres-
sing the trip down the Danube and some parts of
the Scottish and Sicilian tours, and the Scandmavian
and Spanish tours, this can be reduced by thre«
weeks. Many summer tourists seem disinclined ^^
visit N". Germany and Austria. This, we think, ifc a
decided error of judgment; but it is evident that if
these sections are not visited, the time is reduced
viil A CHAPTER ON TRAVEL.
H
by another ten days. Most travellers can, with a trifle
of care and patience, sit down with this book before
them, and by its aid plan a journey which, including
the ocean voyages out and back, shall not take up
more than four full months, and can be made with
ease and enjoyment.
Especial attention has been paid, in the preparation
of this volume, to giving the local raikoay and steamboat
fares, — a feature in which nearly all other English and
American guide-books are sadly deficient. We believe
that our work will be found very complete in this
particular. Several hundred letters were written to
station masters in all parts of Europe for the purpose
of securing extreme accuracy. In most cases we think
our fares will be found correct. Railway fares, how-
ever, vary considerably in Italy during the course of
a year, and our fares may sometimes be found a bit
higher or lower than those prevalent in that country ;
b\it the difference will be slight. We have done our
best to secure accuracy and fulness of detail. The
traveller will be duly grateful, after he has tried in
vain to find what he wants in the "A B C's" and
" Bradshaws " of Great Britain, and has puzzled his
brains over the complicated Continental hand-books.
We think that the route which we recommend and
desciibe may be followed from beginning to end with
no other guide than this one, which can be carried in
the breast-pocket. The writer has been over nearly
every route described.
Arrangements for the Journey.
Try to arrange your journey so as to reach Europe
by tlie first of May. With a view to this, secure your
steamship tickets very early in the year. When you
AUllANaEMKN'l'S I'OR 'I'ilK .lOCiLN J;; Y IV
have fl('f;i(l(Ml oti l,li(5 (1h((! of your «l('|»;i,rl,ur(', arid Uie
prohiitdc, U-M^Ui of yoiii" aliHeiice from liomc, h((*)»
inl.o a proniiiiciiit Ixuiker's in thfi city in whi(!ii you
msidc, or l-ho Hcnfjort whonce you 8ail, and 8t!curo a
Ij<dl('/r of (Jrcdit or (Jireidar JSInim for a fiuni wliich
you d(io;n Hiillicicnt to cover your exfmn.sfiH until you
jir*'. ul> liouK! a/^'iiiii. Allow a margin foi- <'(jn(,in{^(--,n(;ie8.
On IIk; \n'\.\i-Y of Cn-dit n^•t^ I Ik; addri'MHcs of perhaps
1 wo hiiMdr<!d of l,lie liiidin;^ \M.\i\i\t\^ Iiouhcm of.
I'liirope, a,nd you liavo '"dy to call oti any one of
I he.si' for such huiuh as you wImIi in tlic euircncy of
tiMi country where you may happen to be. Tlie
'J'raiudnrs' (JIuu-Jch also afl'cjrd an excellent meaiiH of
i:;i.rryinf? readily available futidn abroad. They are
accepted by most of the hotels and sJiops as freely as
the money of the country, and are therefore found
very useful by the toui-ist who may v/ant small sums
outside of fjard<in^ hours, or who nuiy not iind it
convenient to interrupt Ids sight-seeinj^Miy a call at
the bard<er's. Buy at a IjroUer's a few English sov-
ereigns, for use on steamer, at lanrling at Ijiver() jol,
or Queenstown, or SoulliMuipton, or other ports.
Tiike a I'li.HHport. CirfMimstanees may occur in
winch it will be positively necessary for you to have
one. Address a letter to the "State Department,
Passport Bureau, Washington." asking foi' the
printed form necessary for application for the
document. When you get this foi'm, till it out,
swear to its contents before a notary, and send it
back to the State Department, inclosing the go-
vernment t.MX of ^l. In due time you will get
your passport. One is sidflcient for man and
wife, or num and family where there are no
grown up sons or daughters, If a passport serves
X A CHAPTER ON TRAVEL. ^^m
for more persons than its holder, he should askto
have a note made upon it that Mr. -^ is accompa-
nied by . Passports are absolutely necessary if
any one is suddenly called on to prove his or her
identity. They are useful in securing admission to
public buildings, private art galleries, etc. Some-
times the regulations exacting them are revived for s,
few days between two countries, because of a diplo«
matic tension or imbroglio, and the person who has
none will find his journey interrupted, and will suf-
fer loss of money, time, and temper.
Steamships. — The Ocean Journey.
A voyage across the Atlantic is to-day such a
common undertaking that most travellers make as
brief preparation for it as if they were going by
train from New York to Chicago.
The choice of steamships is very large. Try to
secure your berths some weeks in advance of sail-
ing; a deposit of $25 is in most cases sufficient,
and this you are supposed to forfeit if you fail to
take the ship, although you may generally post-
pone your departure by giving prompt notice of
your desire to do so. Most of the lines give special
rates for return tickets, the lowest fares usually ex-
cepted.
Among the lines specially to be recommended are
the White Star, New York to Liverpool, calling at
Queen stown, every Wed. (fares, $75 to $825) ; from
Boston to Liverpool, via Queenstown, once a month
on Sat. ($60 and up); Mediterranean service from
"Boston and N. Y. every other Sat. (Naples, $75 to $100) .
The Cunard, N. Y. to Liverpool, via Queenstown,
Sat. ($65 to '^^250); from Boston to Liverpool. Tues.
($65 to $150); Mediterranean service trom N. Y. to
THE OCEAN JOURNEY Xi
Naples and Trieste ($70 and up). American (only-
line sailing under the American flag-) steamers sail
every Sat. for Southampton, with tickets to London,
or Paris via Cherbourg ($90 to $125 in summer, $75
to $100 in winter ; also from Philadelphia every Wed.
for Queenstown and Liverpool ($40 up). North
German Lloyd express steamers for Bremen (calling
at Plymouth and Cherbourg), Tues. ; twin-screw pas-
senger steamers for Bremen (also calling at Plymouth
and Cherbourg), Thurs. ($150, scaling down to $75);
Mediterranean service every Sat. or second Sat.
direct to Gibraltar and Genoa or Naples ($150, $100,
$80). Hamburg- American express steamers to Ham-
burg (calling at Plymouth and Cherbourg) every
Thurs., and special sailings by twin-screw steamer
' ' Deutschland " during the season (summer $100 up,
winter $55 up) ; regular service to Plymouth, Cher-
bourg and Hamburg every Sat., and special sailings
during the summer (summer $75 up, winter $65 up) ;
Mediterranean winter service to Gibraltar, Genoa and
Naples ($65 up). Transatlantique steamers sail
every Thurs. to Havre direct ($140, $100, $75, in-
cluding wine).
Other popular lines are the Holland- America,
every Wed. to Rotterdam via Boulogne ($65 up) ;
Red Star, from N. Y. to Antwerp every Sat. ($55 to
$110); Atlantic Transport, N. Y. to London, every
Sat. ($55 up); Anchor, every Sat., to Glasgow ($50,
$60, $75, or by special steamer, occasional sailings,
$60, $80, $100) ; Scaiidinavian-American, to Den-
mark, Norway and Sweden direct, Thurs. (summer
$60, $65, winter $50. $55) ; Wilson, N. Y. to Hull,
occasional sailings, $40.
The choice, as you see, is varied enough to suit
any purse, and the accommodation on even the most
Xii A CHAPTER ON TRAVEL.
inexpensive of the ships is good. For inform^fitioa
as to sailings of these steamships from European
ports for home, consult the list of sailings issued
by the various Ss. Co.'s and the daily journals.
The question of Baggage for a European tour is
very important. Our advice is to take with you in
any case one large, stoutly built American trunk,
plainly marked with your name, place of abode, etc.
Have it well hooped about, and see that it possesses
a capital lock. Into this put everything that you
are certain not to require on the ocean voyage. Then
pack such articles as you will need either in a roomy
valise or in one of the small, flat cabin trunks, built
60 that they will go under a berth, which may be had
at any trunk-maker's. Ladies will find these " cab-
in trunks *' almost indispensable. Take with you
plenty of warm clothing, and make it a rule in
travelling on the Continent always to have over-
coats, cloaks, etc., at hand. You will find them
as necessary in Switzerland and Italy as in Scot-
land and North Germany. When you reach
Liverpool, if you Intend to return by that port,
you can leave your cabin- trunk stored at a hotel
or steamship office, if you think you will not re-
quire it. Then have your large trunk sent from
point to point where you may need it, but travel
on all short excursions, trips of two or three days,
etc., unencumbered by anything that you cannot
carry in your hands. Eve^^ jf a valise is rather vol-
uminous, you can take u into railway carriages
with you all over the Continent* It is not wise to
restrict one's self in amount of baggage ; while the
rates for overweight are high in some countries they
are low in others. In Great Britain you can carry
THE OCEAN JOURNEY. xili
almost anytliiug except a house with you and no ques-
tions are asked. A good portion of the equipment of
a masculine traveller may be purchased after his arrival
in Europe. He would better bring his American over-
coats, but hats, shoes, rugs, linen, etc., can be had
to advantage in Great Britain or France. Besides, by
wearing European hats and shoes you will save money.
It is a mistake to say that a man is known by the com-
pany he keeps ; he is known by .his hat and shoes.
They are the distinguishing marks of his make-up.
Travelling suits for gentlemen should be modest in
color ; black clothes are handy when one arrives at a
fashionable watering-place or a large town, and even-
ing dress is highly necessary in London in the season,
and in long stops in other cities it is of course fre-
quently required. We shall not venture to offer the
ladies advice about what to wear, further than to repeat
our injunction concerning plenty of wraps, and to hint
that thin shoes should not be worn in travel.
Ulsters and linen dusters should be avoided ; the
ulster, outside the British Islands or at sea, looks
odd and is useless. A waterproof coat is extremely
useful. An umbrella, stout enough to serve the
purpose of a cane, should be taken. Woolen socks
and thick-soled shoes are the things lor travel.
Travelling suits for gentlemen cost in Great Britain or
France about one third as much as in America. They
are not made so well, nor of such good material as our
own, but they are very serviceable.
On, the Steamslii'p Voyage keep ni the open air as
much as possible. If you suffer continuously from sea-
sickness, struggle up on deck daily, and in one of the
adjustable steamer chairs, to be provided by yourself.
xiv A CHAPTER ON TRAVEL.
remain in recumbent posture, well wrapped up, but
do not pass a moment of daylight down stairs, except
when at meals or in very rough weather. The' deck
steward will even bring you your meals, if necessary.
If the ship pitches violently, lie with your head to-
ward the bows. If you are well, and wish to remain
:so, avoid heavy food, heating liquors, intense appli-
cation to books or cards. Just live, eat, and sleep,
and when you reach land you will be amazed to
observe how you are rested. Avoid late suppers.
•Get up early, and get on deck at once. When you
a,re approaching land the question of stewards' fees
w^ill come up. We should say give the steward who
waits on you at table lOs. ; your berth-room steward
somewhat less, according to the trouble you have
made him, and the deck steward about 5s. ; the
"boots" and bath-man must be remembered if you
have been served by them. But if you cannot afford
so much, give less; the servants expect something,
but they never grumble at the amount.
Landing at Queenstown is very simple. You go
off in a tug, which transports you up the bay from
Roches Point (see Ireland). Customs formalities
same as on
Landing at Liverpool. — We strongly advise tourists
to leave the steamers at Queenstown, and go through
Ireland first, but we feel convinced that large numbers
of them will proceed to Liverpool. The landing ar-
rangements at this great port are not so perfect as
they might be, and have recently suffered some small
alterations. Passengers formerly left the steamers
in tugs, and came up to the Prince's Landing Stage,
where there is a kind of custom-house, and where they
were usually kept waitii^^, _-bout an hour. Now ships
usually go into dock before discharging passengersi
The custom-house officers search for cigars and
spirits only; if you have neither, you will soon have .
your "luggage" on a cab or dray, and be on your
way to the North Western or Midland Railway
stations, or to your hoteL
Money — A Word of Explanation.
In Great Britain the money is pounds, shillings,
and pence (£ s. d,). In France, Belgium, Switzer-
land, Italy and Spain there is a decimal currency.
In the first three countries the reckoning is in
francs and centimes; in Italy it is in tire and
centesimi ; in Spain, pesetas, reales and centimos.
But gold coins of any of the five above-named
countries circulate freely in all of them.
The French twenty-franc piece, called napoleon, or
louis, is current money anywhere in the Continent.
In Holland the money is reckoned in guilders and
ce7its. There are 100 cents in a guilder, which is 40
cents of our money. In Grermany the reckoning is
-in marks and pfennig e. The mark is about 24
cents gold, and there are 100 pfennige in it. When
you give one pfennig to a begear, he never troubles
you again. In Austria you must reckon in gulden
and kreutzers. The gulden is 40.6 cents of our
money, and is divided into 100 kreutzers. In Austria
there is now a new system in which the unit is a
crown, which is equivalent to a fraction over 20 cents
of our money, divided into 100 heller. You will
observe that in giving the local railway fares in these
different countries, we have used abbreviations :
Pounds, shillings, pence, £, s., d. ; francs and centi-
mes, fr., c. ; lire and centesimi, 1., c. ; pesetas, p. ; etc.
In Portugal the money is counted in rets, of which it
xvi A CHAPTER ON TRAVEL
takes ten to make one cent. In Russia miles and
kopeks are the money. The gold coins most in use
'on the lines of travel which you are likely to take
are sovereigns and half-sovereigns TEnglish) ; — the
guinea (21s.) no longer exists, although it is still
used in reckoning ; — twenty, ten and five franc
pieces ; twenty-mark and ten-mark pieces. In Sweden,
Norway and Denmark the krone (|0.268)- is the basis
of reckoning. Be careful not to bring Italian or
Austrian paper to Paris or London. You will lose
very heavily on it. English, French and German
bank notes are as good as gold. The French have
notes of fifty, one hundred, five hnndred, and one
thousand francs, and these are extremely convenient
to carry on the Continent, but they are not current
in other countries. (See ComparativQ Table of
Moneys following title-page.)
Railway Travel.— You will find first, second,
and third class everywhere (save upon the English
Midland Railway and a section of the Great
Northern, which have no second class) ; and w^e
have given the fares for each class in all cases when
practicable. Express trains on the Continent have
no third class ; but in Great Britain nearly all
trains have it. First-class is best for long jonr-
nevs ; second good enough for short ones ; and
third worth taking now and then, particularly in
England and Germany, for the purpose of study-
ing the common people. Second-class in Germany
and Austria is almost as comfortable as first-class
in England and France. On a long journey from
France into Germany, you may frequently take
*'a mixed" ticket wnth advantage, i e., first
in France and second in Germany. A srentle-
A WORD OF EXPLANATION xvii
man traveling alone and not afraid of a little fatigue
may take third-class through from London to Glasgow
or Edinburgh, or from London to Liverpool, saving
just half the sum he would expend in iirst-class. lu
England and Great Britain, generally, people speak
of "taking" a ticket and "booking" a place. The
" booking-office " is where the tickets are soki The
conductor is called the " guard." This phraseology
appears to have been left over from the old coaching
days. Be sure and attend to your "luggage" care-
fully. Get a label pasted on any piece that you pro-
pose to leave in the "luggage van," and when you
reach your destination, be on hand to claim your
things. There is no checking system. Small bags,
wraps, etc. can always be left in a " cloak room " at
any railway station for hours or days. Eees trivial.
Employes are civil and obliging, but all expect small
compensation. Do not make the mistake, either in Great
Britain or on the Continent, of giving large gratuities.
In the British Islands smoking-carriages are provided
on every train; in Erance and some other Latin
countries smoking is permissible, by general consent,
|in any carriages except those reserved for ladies only ;
in Italy, only in smoking compartments ; in the Ger-
manic lands smoking is wellnigh universal, although
every train has its clamen-cowpe, and its compartments
Fiir nichtraucher. The coupes, or end compartments
with windows in front, — another survival of diligence
and coacli customs, — may be hired at reasonable
charges above tlie first-class fares, and should generally
be engaged beforehand at the station. In Erance and
Middle Europe generally the tariff is about 16 francs per
seat per thousand kilometres. A party of four, going
through from Paris to Cologne, or commg from Nice
to Paris, will find a coupejvorth taking. Do not"
xviii A CHAPTER ON TRAVEL.
n.
trust too implicitly to information furnished by rail-
road and steamship officials, for it may be mislead-
ing. Among R. R. guide books, " Bradshaw," price
6d., is the most compact for Great Britain; the Chaix
** Guide des Chemins de Fer de I'Europe " will do for
the Continent. It contains all that may be found in
the local guides published in Germany, Switzerland,
etc., costs only 40 cents, and is corrected several times
yearly. Most guides are furnished with maps, from
which you can gain very clear ideas of the location of
the lines along which you travel. On excursions, re-
member that return tickets can generally be had at a
discount from the regular fares. Return tickets are
usually available only on the day on which they are
sold, and by the first train of the next. Saturday
tickets, however, generally extend until the first Mon-
day train. On the Continent the terms for returns
are much more liberal than in Great Britain. " Cir-
cular tickets" are issued in nearly all countries, and
ample information concerning them is given at rail-
way stations, hotels, banks, and in the newspapers.
There is usually a saving — (there is certainly great
convenience) — in buying these circular tickets, espe-
cially to those who, for example, wish to go from
Paris to Switzerland, and after visiting that country
to return directly to France. There is a great variety
of excursion tickets and hotel-coupon arrangements,
by which inexperienced travellers, or those who do
not care to explore their own routes, may be aided in
travelling, passing all over the Continent and the
Levant under efficient chaperonage. Prominent
among these is the agency of Messrs, Thos. Cook
& Sons, Messrs. Raymond & Whitcomb, and Messrs.
Henry Gaze & Sons. There are sleepiiig-cars
RAILWAYS. XiX
on many English, and Continental lines ; in
Great Britain are like our own; on the Conti-
nent the "Mann Boudoir Car" is in use. This
latter is Yery comfortable, but the rates are extrava-
gantly high. The Boudoir Cars are called wagons^
lits, "bed- wagons," in most Continental countries;
their office in Paris is No. 3 Rue Scribe. Between
Paris and Vienna, Paris and Geneva, Paris and
Turin and Florence, and often E,ome also, Paris
and Berlin and Russia, etc., there is a regular
sleeping-car service. The Russian cars are larger
and more elegant than the other Continental ones;
and in Russia and Switzerland a modified Ameri-
can railway-carriage, in which, however, class dis-
tinctions are kept up, is in use. The amount of
baggage carried free in France, Spain, and Sweden
is 66 pounds; in North Germany, Austro-Hun-
gary, Holland and Russia, 55 pounds ; in Great
Britain, any reasonable amount ; in South Germany,
Belgium, Italy and Switzerland, there is no free bag-
gage, but the rates are not extravagant. In some
parts of Italy and Switzerland there have been great
complaints that baggage has been plundered in
transit by baggage-masters and trainmen; hence
the necessity for first-rate locks already men-
tioned. Parcels, and baggage when forwarded
to be called for later, should be sealed. Indeed,
the railway companies generally insist on this,
and refuse articles which appear to be insecurely
fastened. In all Continental countries, when your
baggage is weighed, a receipt is given you, and
the number on it corresponds to that pasted on the
trunk or valise. Even if there is no excess of weight,
yon must have a receipt. In some cases, in going
from an important city in one country to an impor-
tant city in another, your baggage can be "registered
through," and examined when it reaches destination;
A CHAPTER ON TRAVEL.
in others, although registered through, it must be ex-
amined at the Irontier. The examination is a pure
formality almost everywhere. In vexatious cases noth-
ing is gained by grumbling and scolding. Small fees
to railway servants, guards, etc., always meet with
prompt return in civility and privilege. At all German
and Swiss railway depots, apply to the portier for
information. In Italy tiie railway facchini are paid
accordnig to tariff, — 4 soldi (cents) for a trunk, 2 for a
bag or valise, and in proportion for a bundle of wraps,
etc. In Rome, however, this tariff is raised to 5 and
3 soldi. The refreshment rooms in England, Scotland,
Italy, Spain, and North Germany are not very-good; in
otlier countries they are excellent. On long journeys
carry your own basket, especially in Italy and Spain,
where fruit, bread, and Avine may be had in the open-air
markets for a song, but in hotels are purposely held very
dear. In Italy and Eussia a window on the wind-
Ward side of a railway carriage cannot be kept,
©pen if any person in the compartment ob.iects. .^
Hotel Expenses ■
must naturally vary much according to taste and in-
come of the traveller. Our lists of hotels are carefully
selected, and we beheve that the houses recommended
will be found satisfactory. Great Britain is an ex-
pensive country by comparison with Switzerland or
Italy; in Germany cities are expensive, small towns
and country cheap. The American will notice with
some surprise that Hfe in Europe is, as a whole, no
longer much if any cheaper than in America. To live
even carefully at a first class-hotel in any part of Great
Britain costs about four dollars or four dollars and a
half daily, divided somewhat as follows: breakfast.
HOTEL EXPENSES. xxi
from two and six (two shillings and sixpence) to three
and six; lunch, about same price; dinner, without
wine, five shillings ; room, from four and six to eight
and six, and invariably one and six for attendance.
Wines are as dear, with few exceptions, as in the
United States. There are, however, good hotels,
where you may live at about ten shillings daily;
and private boarding-houses in the large cities
where it will cost from seven to ten shillings daily — ■
rarely under ten. A person very economically
inclined may possibly live for six shillings daily, but
not in rapid travel. On the Continent you may
calculate that if you reach a hotel at nightfall, dine
or sup and sleep, and take early breakfast there, your
bill will be 12 or 13 francs. For a stay of some days
ycu may manage not to spend more than from ten
to fourteen francs daily. In large capitals, simply
take room at your hotel, and your first meal there.
The others can be had to suit your purse and con-
venience at restaurants. In Germany, Switzerland,
and some parts of Italy, the tables d'hote are cheaper
than the restaurants. If you want a cheap room in
a hotel, say so ; there is no surprise at economy in
Europe. Travellers should carry their own soap
and toilet paper. Washing can usunlly be doi>8
within 24 hours in all countries. When you buy
a parcel and order it sent to your room, give the num-
ber of the chamber, and not your name. Fee the
portier at Continental hotels ; he will be useful. Give
one of your dining-room waiters something, but give
to only one. Never mind the head waiter's sardonic
frown. In France you will save money by taking your
meals at the hours when the natives take theirs ; out
of hours 70U pay special prices. By asking for "ice-
xxii A CHAPTER ON TRAVEL.
water," yoi\ can now get it almost everywiiere.
In Middle Europe drink ordinary wines, an4
dilute them with water, except at evening. The
vin ordinaire is pure and wholesome in all coun-
tries. Examine your bills, and don't allow over-
charges. Omnbiks from station is generally
charged in bill. Baggage porter expects small
fee when you go away. Insist on having your
bill when you ask tor it. You will find English
spoken in almost aii hotels. You can always
post letters and generally send telegrams from
your hotel, unless in some small country town.
Telegraphy is cheap in nearly all European coun-
tries. Before leaving America tell your friends
to write to you, care of your bankers in London
or Paris , if you keep your bankers advised ot
your address you will never miss a mail. Reg
ister your name at the London and Paris offices
of your banker's; and you may thus find friends
or acquaintances who happen to be travelling abroad.
In Paris, you wall find the larger bankers well pro-
vided with post-offices, reading-rooms, and informa-
tion about travel. If you need a courier (but you
really do not), ask your banker or landlord for the
addi'ess of one. Couriers are expensive luxuries.
We think all necessary information about cabs will
be found in the text of the volume. Diligences are to
be avoided as much as possible. In some places they
CAUTIONS. xxiii
are, however, indispensable. On steamboats on lakes
and streams you may usually take free about twice
as much baggage as by rail. Always make your bar-
gains beforehand tor private carriages.
A few Cautions as to small matters may not be
out of place. Should you go shopping on ihe Con-
tinent, especially in France, Belgium, Switzerland,
or Italy, try to make up your mind from your in-
spection of an article in the windows whether you
want it or not. The window is really the shop ;
everything is plainly marked, and if you go in
and come out again without buying, the skopkeeper
considers that you have made him waste his time,
and does not conceal his disappointment from you.
Should you take furnished apartments, be sure and
inspect the inventory made of them before you move
in. Do not violate any regulations, municipal or
general, however trivial and useless they may seem,
for the laws are rigidly enforced. Secure seats at
the theatres at least 24 hours before you intend to
go, otherwise you will be badly placed. After climb-
ing a Swiss mountain pass, be careful not to take
cold; imprudence in the mountains often ruins a whole
summer. Wraps must be taken into galleries, churches,
and palaces, especially in Italy, even in summer. In
passnig from sunshine to shade, gather your garments
about you, and avoid chills. Treat servants in France
and other Latin countries and in Switzerland as you
would in America, but in Great Britain and Grermany
and Austria keep th^^m at a distance; they do not un-
derstand democracy, and would impose upon you. If
you go to a,poste restante (general delivery post-ol!ice),
present your name plainly written or printed on a card.
lu making pedestrian tours in out-of-the-way districts,
xxiy A CHAPTER ON TRAYEL
do not lose your temper if the local officials are a
little curious about your movements. In case of
sudden illness in France, Italy or Switzerland, call
an American or English physician, if you can find
one. Failing that, a local physician who ha,s had
practice among foreigners is better than one who has
not.
Language is not so great a barrier to communica-
tion as is imagined. If you get into a corner of
Europe where no tongue that you can speak is under-
stood, use English ."just as if the people knew what it
meant, and make signs. You will get on famously.
The little list of plirases at the end of this volume
may be found an aid to those who have some
familiarity with those languages most spoken in
Europe. On genera,l principles, however, it is better
to use what little y^n know of a foreign language
than to seek interpreters. You will be presumed to
know more than yov express, and you will make
better bargains.
Go to the United S^^tes Consul for information
when you are really in d^ubt and need advice. Not
even then, if he is a political appointee and not a
practical man. In the latter case only is he likely to
have that acquaintance v.ith the language, laws and
customs of the place, whereby he ca.p 9id you? whi^e--
if he has an important olhce and attends to it, h*
has little time for strangers ^bn^ come wixihoiii *s
business reason for their call.
GOLFING-CYCLING. xxv
Golfing.
'ine opportunties for golf on the Continent have
greatly increased during the past few years, many of
the hotels in the resorts largely patronised by English
and Americans having had links laid out. Golf
clubs having more or less desirable courses have been
established in the following places: — Belgium —
Antwerp, Bruges, Brussels, Ostend, Vianden ; France,
— Aix-les-Bains, Arcachon, Argeles, Beaulieu-sur-
Mer, Biarritz, Boulogne, Cannes, Costebelle, Dieppe,
Dinard, Gavarnie, Hyeres, Nice, Parame, Paris, Pau,
St. -Jean de Luz, Sainte Marguerite (Pornichet Sta-
tion); Germany — Baden-Baden, Berlin, Bremen,
Dresden, Homburg, Wiesbaden; Oihraltar; Holland
— Arnheira, Doom, Haarlem, Hague, Hilversum,
Leeawarden; Italy — Conio, Florence, Rome, San
Remo, Sorrento, Spezia, Varese; Portugal — Oporto;
Russia — Moscow, St. Petersburg; Sweden — Gothen-
burg; Switzerland — Maloga, St. Moritz, Samaden.
Cycling.
The chief inconveniences of a cycle tour on the
Continent are those due to the customs regulations in
the different countries. At nearly every frontier the
tourist is obliged to pay the regular duty imposed
upon wheels imported for sale, but on leaving the
country this duty is refunded. The following is the
deposit required in each country, the amount in each
ease being reduced to its American equivalent :
Austria, $10; the tourist must swear to a declaration
that he intends to remain only temporarily in the
country, and that his wheel is not for sale; on leav-
ing the country the deposit will be refunded; Bel-
gium, 12 per cent, ad valorem; if intending to leave
the countiy by rail, the tourist must write in ad-
vance to the custom-house otiicial at the frontiftr, en-
xxvi A CHAPTER ON TRAVEL.
closing receipt and stating on what train he will pass
through; the money will then be refunded when the
frontier is reached. Denmark, 10 per cent, ad
valorem; special permit must be obtained if tourist
intends to leave through another custom house; a
lead seal must be attached to the wheel as a receipt.
England, free. France, 25 cents per pound; a lead
seal is attached to the wheel as a receipt, and the
tourist may leave by any frontier. Germany, ivQQ
for tourists ; in this country bicycles will not be
taken on the express trains. Holland, free for
tourists. Italy, $8. Luxembourg, 3 cents per poimd.
Portugal, 27 per cent, ad valorem; a seal required as
in France. Russia, $7.80; a seal and permit re-
quired as in Denmark. Spain, 5c. per pound; and
in addition the tourist must obtain a special pass
good for six months, for which 20 cents is charged ;
the frontier officials are sometimes exacting, and it
may be wise to secure the services of a custom-house
broker. Sweden and Norway, 25 and 30 kr. respect-
ively ; if the tourist intends to enter the country
through any but the principal custom houses he must
obtain a permit from the Director General of Cus-
toms, and he must leave the country by. the same
route that he entered; his deposit will be forfeited if
he remains over sixty days ; Switzerland, 6c. per lb.
Any American wheelman intending to vour on the
Continent, if ho is not already a member of the
L. A. W., should join that organization, as it gives
him many privileges. The governments of Italy,
Belgium and Switzerland now permit touring mem-
bers of the L. A. W. to pass their respective frontiers
without making a deposit. There is also an alliance
between the League and the Cyclists' Touring Club
of Great Britain, whereby a member of one may be
admitted to temporary membership in the other
without ext^a fes^. The Touring Club de France
AUTOMOBILING XXvii
may also be joined by League members at slight ex-
pense, and with membership in those two clubs one
obtains road books free, reduction in rates at hotels,
and many other advantages.
The wheel should be provided with a brake, a bell
or gong, and a lantern. It must be boxed for the
steamship very strongly and not merely crated; a
bicycle trunk, though expensive, is advisable. There
is a charge for freight on most lines. If the tourist
has the precaution to take a second chain and extra
nuts, together with a serviceable repair kit, he may
be spared much vexation and loss of time and
money.
Automobile Eegulations.
The steamship companies insist that automobiles be
crated before being accepted for transportation to or
from Europe. The expense of this is about $100, but
the box can be stored with the steamship company or
the forwarding company and used for 1 he return voy-
age. The channel steamers between Great Britain
and the Continent have every facility for carrying
uncrated cars without risk. The motoring tourist
should always have with him a passport, an official
certificate of his ability as a driver, and a maker's
certificate giving date of sale, value, weight, type of
car, capacity, etc. It will be to his advantage in
many ways to become a member of the Touring Club
of France. The following is a synopsis of the custom
house rules and police regulations in the most fre-
quented countries of Europe:
France. — The duty is at the rate of 50 francs for
each IQO kilogrammes, if the car weighs more than
125 kilogrammes (275 lbs.), and 120 francs if it
weighs less than this. The amount must be deposited
on entering the country, and will be refunded when
leaving the country (within six months) on presenta-
xxviii A CHAPTER ON TRAVEL
tion of the deposit receipt at the frontier. The speed
limit is thirty kilometres (about 19 miles) in the
country, 20 kilometres (about 13 miles) in villages;
in narrow roads or streets the car must not exceed
the speed of a man walking. These rules are not
strictly enforced if the car seems to be under com-
plete control. At night a white and a green light
must be displayed in front.
Germany. — The duty is 230 marks, which is sel-
dom demanded if the driver has a passport and can
prove that the car has been in his possession a rea-
sonable time. The amount paid will be refunded
when the car leaves the country. The regulations
vary in different towns and parts of the empire; in
many places certain streets are forbidden to automo-
biles, and in one little principality at least the en-
trance of motor cars into the capital is not allowed
when the ruler is "in residence."
Holland. — The duty is 5 per cent, ad valorem, re-
payable on leaving the country; it is seldom exacted
unless the car is manifestly new. The speed limit is
30 kilometres (about 13 miles) in the country, 8 kil-
ometres (5 miles) in villages, over bridges, down
hill, at night, and in foggy weather. A permit must
be obtained from the Secretary of Public Works and
must be countersigned at the custom house; blank,
permits may be had from the Netherlands Automo-
bile Club, The Hague, on payment of 4.20 gulden
(50 cts.). Every car must carry two lights and a
horn or bell respectively visible and audible 350 feet.
Belgliam. — A duty of 12 per cent, ad valorem, re-
payable at the frontier when leaving the country, is
required. Lamps and horns are required, cars must
proceed slowly in towns and when crossing bridges,
and in all cases must be under control and must not
exceed a reasonable speed.
Great Britain and Ireland. — There is no duty
on automobiles. Lights and sound signals are re-
AUTOMOBILING Xxix
quired and a reasonable speed must not be exceeded.
To avoid accidents the driver must observe the rule
of the road and pass to the left instead of the right.
Switzerland.— The duty is 20 francs per loO kil-
ogrammes, repayable when leaving the country.
Each car must carry a white and a green light m
front and a rec\ light behind, a good horn, and two
brakes, each one capable of stopping the car within
two metres (33 feet) on a decline or when riiuning at
full legal speed. The speed must not exceed 30 kil-
ometres (about 19 miles) in the country, 10 kilometres
(6^ miles) in cities and towns or on mountain roads,
and 6 kilometres (3f miles) on bridges, in narrow
streets, and whenever warning signs demand it. The
car must stop when meeting a horse that appears
frightened or when a government stage-coach is met.
There are a number of other regulations, some of
them vexatious and unreasonable. Indeed, automo-
biles are unpopular in Switzerland, and in case of
accident, no matter where the blame lies, the motor
driver is usually held accountable. A' permit is
necessary unless the owner has ine from his own
government and that government is one which recip-
rocates in this respect with Switzerland.
Austria.— The duty is 130 kroner (about $26) for
the car and 18 kr, ($3.50) for every 100 kilogrammes
(220 lbs.) weight of the motor. This sum is refunded
when the owner leaves Austrian territory.
Italy.— The duty varies from 200 lire ($38.60) for
a car weighing up to 500 kilos (1,200 lbs.) to 600 lire
(115.80) for one weighing over 1000 kilos (2,400 lbs.)
The amount will be refunded on leaving the country
within six months. The driver must obtain a permit
within five days, either on the basis of reciprocity, if
that exists with the country granting his original
licence, or after proving to the authorities by actual
test that he is a competent driver.
Russia. — There is a vexatious amount of red tape
XXX A CHAPTER ON TRAVEL
to unravel in order to drive a motor car into Russia.
A special permit must be obtained from the Secretary
of Finance, anr] one who gets the permit within a
week of his applanation is to be congratulated. The
application for the permit, which must be made on
stamped paper (80 kopeks, about 40 cents), must
state how long the driver expects to be in Russia, at
what town the car will enter, and from what town it
will leave the country. The duty paid will be re-
funded some time or other, but usually not until
some weeks after the car has left the country.
Spain. — The duty paid is refunded on leaving the
country. The speed ^aws are not irksome.
Denmark. — No auty is required if the owner
makes declaration that he is touring and intends to
make only a temporary stay in the country.
Reimportation into tsie United States.— The
regulations of the U. S. Treasury Department pro-
vide that the owner of an automobile of foreign
manufacture on which duties have been paid may,
after its ideYitification and the issue of a certificate by
customs otficers on his application, take it abroad
for touring purposes, with the right of free entry on
its return with him or within thirty days alter him,
provided that no repairs, nnprovements, or additions
were made to the automobile, except absolutely neces-
sary repairs costing not more than 10 per cent, of ||!
the original appraised value. Cai-s of American * '
manufacture will be admitted on their return free
of duty, provided that they shall not have been ad-
vanced in value or improved in condition and that
all repairs made thereto were absolutely necessary
and did not cost more than 10 per cent, of the
original price of the car ; and provided further that
it shall be shown that the accessories are those taken
abroad under the certificate.
Customo Regulations
All persons on their arrival in the United States
I
CUSTOMS REGULATIONS xxxi
are required to make a declaration of dutiable articles
obtained by them abroad. The declaration will be
verified on the pier by careful examination of the
contents of the packages.
The senior member of a family may include all the
members .thereof in his or her declaration.
State the exa^ct number of pieces of baggage in
which your effects are contained.
Give the cost or foreign value of each dutiable
article.
As far as practicable, keep your original receipted
bills for all purchases of any importance during your
stay abroad.
When packing your baggage for your return trip
it would be well to prepare a list of articles so pur-
chased, with the prices paid for each.
If these articles are so placed in your trunks that
you can easily find a^d exhibit them fc^' appraise-
ment, much time and inconvenience will be saved.
Each person is entitled to bring in fifty cigars or
tliree hundred cigarettes for his own use. All cigars
and cigarettes in excess of this number and less than
three thousand are liable to seizure, but in meritori-
ous cases may be released by the payment of a fine
equal to the duty and the internal revenue tax.
Duties will be assessed at the foreign market
values at the time of exportation with due allowance
for wear or depreciation. A failure to declare duti-
able articles in your possession will render the same
liable to seizure and confiscation and you to criminal
prosecution.
In case passengers are dissatisfied with the values
placed upon dutiable articles, they have the privilege
to demand a re-examination, but application therefor
should be immediately made to the deputy collector
at the pier. If, for any reason, this is impracticable,
the packages containing the articles should be left in
%ustoms custody and application for re-appraisement
ma.de to the collector at the custom house in writing
XXXii A CHAPTER ON TRAVEL
■within two days after the original appraisement.
No request for re-appraisement can be entertained
after the articles have been removed from customs
custody.
Baggage intended for delivery at another port
may l)e forwarded thereto upon application, without
the assessment of duty at the poi't of arrival.
Any baggage or personal effects in transit through
the United States to any foreign country may on
application be forwarded to the port of departure.
The officer taking your declaration will advise you
on this point.
Representatives of various railroads and express
companies will be found on the pier and will take
charge of your baggage and forward it to destination
if desired.
Government officers are forbidden by law to accept
anything but currency in payment of duties, but if
requested will retain baggage on the pier for twenty-
four hours to enable the owner to secure the cur-
rency.
It is unlawful for customs officers to receive any
" tip" or gratuity, and to offer the same is a violation
of law.
Passengers are requested promptly to report to the
Secretary of the Treasury, the collector at the custom
house or to the deputy collector at the pier any dis-
courtesy or incivility on the part of customs officers.
A resident of the United States returning thereto
is entitled to bring with him, free of duty, personal
effects taken abroad by him as baggage, provided
they have not been remodelled or improved abroad
so as to increase their value, and, in addition thereto,
articles purchased or otherwise obtained abroad, of a
total value not exceeding $100. Such articles may
be for the use of the person bringing them or for
others, but not for sale.
CUSTOMS REGULATIONS xxxiii
(To prevent the use of the foregoing provision as
a cloak for smuggling, customs officials are in-
structed to inquire into the bona fides of the journey
and the actual ownership of the goods. Either the
presence of an unusual amount of any class of highly
dutiable merchandise or frequent and hasty journeys
is sufficient to raise the presumption of bad faith.
Such cases will be subject to most careful scrutiny
and prosecution.)
All articles obtained abroad, whether exempt from
duty or otherwise, should be declared, and an allow-
ance of $100 for articles obtained abroad will be
made by the deputy collector upon the pier.
Non-residents of the United States are entitled to
bring with them as baggage free of duty all wearing-
apparel, articles of pei'sonal adornment, toilet articles
and similar personal effects in actual use and neces-
sary and appropriate for the wear and use of such
persons and their present comfort and convenience^
not intended for other persons or for sale.
Non-residents for the purposes of customs admin-
istration are divided into three classes:
First — Actual residents of other countries.
Second — Persons who have been abroad for the
purpose of study, restoration of health, or for other
specific objects, and have had a fixed foreign abode
for one year or more.
Third — Persons who have been abroad for two
years or more for any purpose whatever, and who
have had during that time a fixed place of abode for
one year or more.
Household effects of persons or families from for-
eign countries will be admitted free of duty if actu-
ally used abroad by them not less than one year, and
not intended for any other person or for sale.
The law expressly forbids the importation into the
United States of garments made in whole or in part
xxxiy A CHAPTER ON TRAVEL
of the skins of prohibited fur seals, and unless the
owner is able to establish by competent evidence and
to the satisfaction of the Collector either that the
garments were purchased prior to December 29, 1897,
or that the animals from which the skin was taken
was captured elsewhere than in prohibited waters,
entry will not be allowed.
Residents who desire to take sealskin garments
abroad may have the same registered with the Col-
lector.
THE COMPLETE
POCKET-GUIDE TO EUROPE.
IRELAND.
THE majority of American visitors to Europe go
first to Oreat Britain, leaving a tour tlirough
the picturesque and interesting island of Ireland
among the possibilities of the last days of their pil-
grimage. Our own impression is that those who
go abroad as early as May or June would do better
to land at Qaeenstown, if their ships stop there, and
make a brief trip through the Emerald Isle, and
quitting it either via Belfast for Glasgow, or via
Dublin and Kingstown, crossing the Irish Channel
to Holyhead in 4 lirs., and going from Holyhead
to Chester, Liverpool, and thence northward to the
English Lake District, or to London, as best suits
their humor. Thousands of persons return to the
United States without having set foot in Ireland.
They intended to go there ; but after their long season
of travel on the Continent they get back to London
somewhat wearied, as well as economically inclined,
and the result is that they hasten to take ship for f
home, seeing naught of Ireland but the bold lines of;
its coast and the round towers which cap its highest
cliffs.
^ QUEENSTOWN
Ireland is worth a visit of 3-5 days, and our ob-,'
ject is to show the tourist how he may spend those|
days to advantage in that country. The steamships
of the Cunard and White Star lines call at Queens-
town, coming from and going to New York, Boston
and other ports. Tugboats speedily convey passengers
with their baggage from Roches Point, M^here tlie
steamers stop, up to the town proper; and the noble
port witli its green water, the verdant hills crowned
with handsome buildings and protected by fortifica-
tions, and the pretty groves and forests, out of which
white villas peep, form a picture doubly pleasing to
the eye of the visitor, after he has for many days seen
nothing but sea, sky, and the ship that brought him
ovei.
Queenstowii {Queen" s Hotel) is on Great Island,
which lies in tiie magnificent bay or arm of the sea
into which the river Lee pours its waters. The town
was formerly called the " Cove of Cork," and received
its present name after Queen Victoria paid it a visit.
It is built on the face of a hill sloping down to the
shore; has a Cathohc cathedral and a fine Protestant
church, and a trifle more than 10,000 inhab. Invalids
are attracted to Queenstown by the extreme mildness
of its climate, llev. Charles Wolfe, who wrote the
famous lines on the buiial of Sir John Moore, died of
consumi)tion here in 1823, and is buried on the island.
Tlie immense harbor of Cork, large enough to afford
shelter to the combined navies of Europe at once, in
its basin 10 square M. in area, is well defended by forts
on either side the cbaunei of enti"ance. On ISjnke Island
is Fort Westmoreland commanding entrance to harbor.
Hawlbowline Island contains Oi'dnance stores and an
armory. Rocky Island is a powder magazine, with 6
huge chambers, holding 10^000 bar»^e-l'^ of gunpowder.
IRELAND 3
and quarried out of the solid rock. It was into Cork
Harbor and Crossliaven Creek that Drake retreated
when the Spanish fleet was hotly pursuing him. He
succeeded in hiding his ships so efl^ectually at a spot
known to this day as Drake s Tool, tliat the supersti-
tious Spaniards attributed the disappearance to magic.
There are three routes from Queeustown to Cork:
by rail all the way (is. 2d., 9d., or 6d.) ;. by steamer
to Passage and thence by rail (fares same as above) ;
or by steamer up the river direct to Patrick's Bridge.
" It would be difficult," wrote Sir John Forbes, " to
overpraise the beauty of the river from Cork to
Quef^nstown, or the magnificent harbor or inland bay
in which it terminates, more especially when these are
seen under the influence of a bright sun and brilliant
sky." At Monkstown, at a point where the river Lee
widens into a lake, stands a castle, now in rums.
Cork {Imperial Hotel; Royal Victoria; Commercial ;
and others), the "capital of tlie South," has a popula-
tion of 80,000. It is situated on both banks of the
river Lee, which is crossed by numerous bridges. The
Irish name of Cork signifies " a swamp," and well de-
scribes the location of the town. The Grand Parade,
the South Mall, Great George's-St , Mardyke, and St.
Patrick's-St ,011 which stands a statue nf Father Mathew,
are the principal avenues. The Queen's College, a
handsome quadrangular structure in- the Tudor-Gothio
style, is situated on a small hill near the S. fork of the
stream. St. Ann's Ch. is the most interesting edifice
in Cork. It contains the '*' bells of Shaiidon," of which
Father Prout sang so melodiously. This ch. was built
iu 1722, and its curious steeple, three sides of which
are of limestone, while the fourth is red, is 120 ft. high,
and constructed of hewn stone from a Franciscan abbey
<HFliere James II. had once heard mass, and from tbe
4 CORK. — BLARNEY CASTLE.
ruins of a castle which had been the official residence
of the lords-president of Munster. The Ch. of tht
Jloly Trinity, founded by Father Matliew, who begas
his career as an apostle of temperance in Cork, is won
thy a visit ; and so is tlie Cathedral of St. Fionn Bar,
This saint founded a monastery on the site of a heathen
temple in Cork in the 7th century. The invading
Danes, 200 years later, surrounded the little town with
walls. Cork had its charter as a city taken away at
the close of the 15th century, because it had received
Perkin Warbeck, the impostor king, with royal honors.
The charter was restored in 1609. Cromwell's cruel-
ties in Cork, in the War of the Protectorate, are still
related by the inhabitants. William Penn, the founder
of Pennsylvania, became a convert to Quakerism in
Cork, where he heard the eloquent preaching of one
Thomas Loe. Cork was surrendered to Henry II.
in the 12th century by Dermot M'Carthy, Prince of
Desmond ; but the English invaders were harassed for
centuries by petty Irish chieftains, and the sentiment
of independent Irish nationality seems even nowadays
conspicuously manifest in the neighborhood. The love-
ly Victoria Park of 140 acres may be seen on the way
to Blarney Castle.
Blarney Castle may be reached from Cork by rail
in 16 niin. But the best plan is to take a jaunting-cai
(about 3s. there and back) by the road on .^e N. bank
of the river. The distance is 5 M. Cormac M'Carthy
built the massive donjon tower, 120 ft. high, and the
lower portion, in the 15th century ; and the famous
Blarney Stone, which bore the inscription Cormach
MacCarthy Fortis Mi Fieri Fecit A. D. 1446, now
illegible, was clasped by two iron bars to a projecting
buttress at the top of the castle, at the N. angle, sev«
»ral ft. below the level of the wall, so that the persoB
IRELAND. 5
vho wished to kiss it had to hold on to the bars, and
project his body forward in most risky fashion. An.
other stone, marked " 1703," stands within the towei
in a place where it is quite accessible to kisses. " The
Blarney Stone," says Black's Picturesque Tourist of
Ireland, " had long been a byword among the Irish :
it is difficult to conjecture why, unless the glib tongues
of the natives of this locality were supposed to be not
the ordinary gift of Nature. But it had not reached
its full zenith of talismanic power until 1799, when
Milliken wrote his well-known song of ' The Groves of
Blarney.' A C-irious tradition attributes to the stone
the power of endowing whoever kisses it with the
sweet, persuasive, wheedling eloquence, so perceptible
in the language of the Cork people, and which is usu-
ally termed Blarney'" There is an odd story about
Blarney Lake, a pretty sheet of water, \ M. from the
castle. It is said that the Earl of Clancarty, who for-
feited the property at the Revolution, sank all his fam-r
ily plate in a certain part of this lake ; that three of thf
M'Carthys inherit the secret of the place where th^
treasure is sunk, any one of whom, dying, communi
cates it to another of the family, and thus perpetuates*
the secret, which is never to be made public until a
M'Carthy is again Lord of Blarney.
Other Excursions from Cork. — To Rostellan
Castle and Cloyne, three times daily by steamer to
Aghada. In Rostellan Castle is preserved an ancient
sword said to have belonged to Brian Boroihine, the
ai?-".estor of the O'Briens. At Cloyne there is a 14th
century cathedral and a noted "round tower." — To
TougJtal and the Blachwater. This excursion may be
made 'u a single day by taking an early train from
Cork tn Youghal (28 M.), ivhence a steamer up the
beaut^iul Blackwater River to Cappoquin, above whicy
6 LAKES OF KILLARNEY
point the stream is not navigable. At Youghal
(Hotel : Devonshire Arms) is the " Warden's House/'
tlie residence of Sir Walter Raleigh in 1588-89. It
was there that he entertained Spenser when the poet
was preparing his "Faerie Queene" for publication. It
was also in Youghal that the first potato was planted
in Ireland, by Raleigh. From Cappoquin the traveller
may take the mail (jaunting-car) to Lismore, one of
the most ancient towns in Ireland, twice daily (Sundays
excepted). Castle of tlie Duke of Devonshire, on the
site of the old University ; visitors admitted. From
Lismore the tourist can go by rail to Fermoy in 45 min. ;
from Fermoy to Mallow, 46 rain. ; and from Mallow he
may return to Cork, reaching there in the evening, or
may go to Killarney.
Killarney. The Lakes, and Lake Region.
The traveller may go from Cork to Killarney by rail,
via Mallow Junction, in about 3 hrs.,68f M. (lls.6d.,
8s. 4d., 5s.). This is the shortest, but the least inter-
esting route. For those pressed for time, it is the
best. By leaving Cork late in the afternoon one may
reach Killarney in time to get a good night's rest, and,
-starting early on the following morning, may visit the
most attractive points in the region, getting back to
Mallow Junction in time to take a night train for Dub-
lin. But those who are making a more leisurely tour
will find themselves well repaid for taking either of the
two routes via GlengarifiE. One of these leads from
Cork by rail through Bandon to Dunraanway, and
thence by coach to Gleng,3i.YiS{Roche's Hotel; Eccles'),
thence to Kenmare (Lansdowne Arms), and so on
through a barren and wild, but picturesque country,
across the mts., and down to Killarney. The most
IRELAND. 7
extensive view of Glengariff, a ravine about 3 M. long,
and rich with yew, holly, and arbutus, is to be had from
Old Berehaven road, near Cromwell's Bridge. The
beautiful grounds around Glengariff Castle are worth a
visit. From Glengariff the journey may be extended to
Bantry Bay, either by land or water. The latter way is
preferable, affording an excellent view of the bold coast
scenery. But we would recommend none of these ex-
cursions to the seaside, unless the weather is entirely
favorable. Nothing is drearier than an Irish wet day
by the sea. The route from Cork to Macroom by rail,
24 M., and thence by jaunting-car to Glengariff, Ken-
mare, and Kiilarney, is highly spoken of by travellers
who have recently taken it. Both these above-mentioned
ways require two days, and a trip to Bantry Bay will
take another half-day. In summer a coach runs from
Cork to Kiilarney, in one day, but does not pass through
the most interesting places. (Fare by this coach, 19s.)
Macroom is the place where the Irish Bards held their
meetings, and a fine ivy-mantled castle may be seen
there. In the vicinity of Kenmare there are many
lovely views ; and the river or bay of Kenmare is by
some considered the most beautiful on the Irish coast.
Kiilarney (^Royal Victoria Hotel ; Railway ; Lake;
/?i«z>/«^^6yi), population 5,000, lies about l^M. from the
N. E. margin of Lough Leane, or the Lower Lake.
It possesses a cathedral, designed by Pugin, and a
nunnery, with a school attached, where 400 girls are
educated. The hotels generally command very good
views of the lakes and the mts. The town is renowned
for its beggars ; and for the artifice of the peasantry
in extorting sixpences from travellers, in return for
some trifling and entirely superfluous service. Two
days are required properly to see the lakes, the Gap
of Dunloe, Muckross ^Lbbey, and the Tore Cascade ^
6 LAKES OF KILLAKNEY.
but if only one day can be given, the best plan is to
engage a pony and ride from Killarney througli the
Gap of Dunloe to the head of the Upper Lake, having
previously ordered a boat to be in readmess at Lord
ferandon's Cottage on that lake. It is 15 M. from Kil-
larney to this cottage, and many may prefer to walk
rather than ride a stumbling horse, especially as they
can rest in the boat while rowed down the lakes after-
wards. Arrangements for horses, boats, etc., can usu.
ally be made at the hotels. The tariff is established by
local law, and there is no occasion to give more.
The first object of interest on the road from Killar.
ney to the Gap of Dunloe is a huge county lunatic
asylum, and the next is the old ruin of Aghadoe, 2:^
M. from the town. All that remains of the once cele-
brated castle is a fragment of a tower. Near by is a
church, consisting of two distinct chapels of unequal
antiquity, lying E. and W. of each other. The W.
chapel is iu the Romanesque style, and was under the
patronage of St. Finian. The E. chapel dates from
1158, is in the Pointed style, and was dedicated to the
Holy Trinity. There are a few fine country-houses on
the road beyond Aghadoe. Lake View House, on the
1., is the residence of a brother of the great O'Con-
nell ; Beaufort House is attractive ; and Dunloe Castle,
also on the 1., is celebrated as having been one of the
residences of the powerful O'Sullivan Mor. The pres-
ent proprietor has restored the castle. About 2 M.
from the entrance to the Gap is the Cave of Dunloe (in
a field not far from the road). This cavern was opened
in 1838 by some laborers digging a ditch, and was
found to be roofed with impost stones, in the angles of
which were inscriptions in the ancient Ogham charac-
ter, supposed to have been used by the Druids before
the introduction of Christianity into Ireland- This
IRELAND. 9
venerable storehouse of Irish history will have but
small interest for the tourist, and he will do well to
press on to the Gap. On his way thither he will pass
the cabin in which the fair "Kate Kearney " once re-
sided, and will doubtless be invited by one of her
descendants to exchange sixpence or a shilling for a
mysterious drink of goats' milk and whiskey.
Of the Gap of Dunloe au Irish writer has said :
*' It appears as if the vast range of mts., of which this
most siagular ravine is composed, were cleft in twain
by a uiighty sword : one is not surprised at its appear-
ance having given rise to such a tradition." It is a
narrow defile 4 M. long, between the range of hills
called " Macgillicuddy's Reeks " and the Purple Mt.,
a shoulder of the Tomies. The rapid stream called
the Loe traverses the wliole length of the glen, ex-
panding at various places into five lakes known as
the Cummeen Thomeen. The road is a mere bridle,
path, sometimes on the very edge of precipices. The
peasantry say that it was at the Black Lough, one of the
small lakes, that St. Patrick banished the last snake
from Ireland. Many travellers who are disappointed
in the Gap of Dunloe find the view, just after leaving
it, up what is called the Black Valley, extremely im-
pressive. The Gap is bordered by rocky peaks vary-
ing from 2,000 to 3,4?00 ft. in height ; but the vast and
desolate amphitheatre of the Black Valley, with its
rugged masses of darkened rock, its circular basins of
still water filled with dissolved peaty matter, and its
wild and mysterious recesses, gives an impression of
grandeur and wonder which its neighbor ravine fails to
produce. The view down the valley in a warm, hazy
day is very striking. The water in the lakes throws
back the light which it receives by reflection frorn tha
sky, and thus seems to be lighted from below.
10 ijAkes of killarney.
At numerous points in the Gap and on tlie Lake?
there are superb echoes, and there is no lack of peaS'
ants to awaken them, and to claim a fee for having
done so. A narrow and rugged footpath leads down
from tlie head of the Gap to Lord Brandon's Cottagey
where the tourist who has ordered a boat before leav«
ing Killarney will find it waiting for him. It is wel^
to have lunch provided in the boat, so that one can
take it as he is rov/ed down towards the Middle anc|
Lower Lakes. Erom Lord Brandon's Cottage one
may ascend Purple Mt. (2,739 ft. high), and from
the summit get a fine view of the Upper and Middle
Lakes and a long stretch of the sea-coast beyond; but
this would require half a day at least.
The Lakes. — From the cottage, across the Upper
Lake, 2^ M., the boatmen row so as to show the
tourist, the numerous pretty islands. The first of these
is McCarthy s ; the second, Arbutus Island, completely
covered with the beautiful plant whose name it bears.
"The islands in the lakes of Cumberland," says the
author of Black's Picturesque Tourist, "are either
grassy holms, with sometimes a piece of yellow whin
to catch the eye, or perhaps a solitary tree or shrub,
or, if larger, such as St. Herbert's and Lord's Isle on
Derwentwater, bearing shady groves of ash and plane,
mixed with every other variety of forest trees. The
islands on the Killarney Lakes have a totally different
aspect, produced entirely by the presence of the arbutus
(Arbutus unedo'). Even in winter the leaves are of a
rich glossy green, and so clustered at the terminations
of the branches that the waxen, flesh-like flowers, which
hang in graceful racemes, ot* the rich crimson, straw-
berry-like fruit, seem cradled in a nest of verdure.'*
The Upper Lake is thought by most peopie to be the
finest of the three. On the S^ lie the Derrycunihy mt
ILELAND. 11
ranges, and on the 1. the high " Reeks." The Long
Range is a river, rather 3 than 2 M. in length, connect-
ing the Upper with the Middle Lake. Tilings to note
here : Golmatis Ei/e ; The Man of War ; The Four
Friends, a group of islets ; The Eagle's Nest, a cliff
which towers 700 ft. above the river (the echoes heard
from this point are remarkably fine) ; Old Weir Bridge^
an ancient structure, under which the water rushes
swiftly. The small boat is carried through at greajr
speed, and floats^ into a still pool called the Meeti]i§
of Waters, near Dinish Island, and then into the
Middle, which is also called Muckross, or Tore Lake.
On Dinish Island there is a cottage where dinner may
be had, if previously ordered from the hotel in Kil-
larney in the morning. Tore Cascade can be visited
from this point ; but it will be better to take this iu
conjunction with the visit to Muckross Abbey, a little
fartlier on. Passing under Brlckeen Bridge, the boat
enters Lough Leaae, or the Lower Lake. The area
of this is about 5,000 acres ; its greatest length 5 M.,
breadth 3 M. There are thirty islands, the principal
one of which, the Ross, is the location of the last
stronghold in Munster that surrendered to the Parlia-
mentary army. The castle was built in the I4tli cen-
tury, by one of the O'Donoghues. The island of Innls-
fallen, midway in the lake, is celebrated in history and
fiction ; and that keen observer, Arthur Young, said
of it that it was " the most beautifm in the king's do-
minions, and perhaps in Europe." The ruins of the
noted abbey are pointed out. The " Annals of Innis-
f alien," a kind of universal history down to the time of
St. Patrick, were written in this abbey about 600 years
ago. The original copy of this curious work is now
preserved in the Bodleian Library. In 1180 the abbey,
mto which all the treasures di the adjacent country
12 MUCKROSS ABBEY.
had been gathered for safe keeping, was plundered by
Mildwin, son of Daniel O'Donoghue. The boatmen
will tell the traveller quite as much as he will care to
hear about the past of " sweet Innisfallen." The part
of the Lower Lake first entered is called Glena Bay.
From the shore near Rabbit Island it is but a short
walk to 0^ Sullivan s Cascade.
Those who wish to visit Muckross Abbey on the
same day as the Gap and Lakes, should arrange with
their boatmen to land them at the point of the Lower
Lake nearest to it. From the shore through the
handsome estate of Mr. Herbert to the abbey is but
a short walk. The noted ruins are those of a ch.
and abbey, founded in 1440, partly restored in 1602,
and still in decent preservation. In the ch. are many
ancient tombs ; among them, those of the O'Sullivans,
McCarthys, and O'Donoghue Mor. The arms of a
gigantic yew-tree support the crumbhng wall of a
beautiful cloister. The trunk of the yew is 13 ft, in
circumference. Tees are not exacted here ; but it is
customary to give som'ething. Muckross Abbey Man-
sion is a fine example of the Elizabethan style of archi-
tecture. Passing through Mr. Herbert's grounds, the
nsitor is admitted at a small wicket (fee, 6d.) to the
enclosure witliin which is the Tore Cascade. Climb
up above the fall, which is 60-70 ft. high, and look
down upon it and, out over the lakes. Yisitors may, if
they wish, drive or walk through the grounds of the
Earl of Kenmare to Ross Island and Castle. The
^land is connected with the mainland by a dike.
^om Muckross to Killarney the distance is about
^f M. The entire round trip is not very fatiguing.
We recommend the tourist to ride the first II M. to
the Gap ; walk 4 M. through the Gap to Lord Bran-
ion's Cottage i ^en the 13 M. across the lakes to
IRELAND. 13
Muokross and the 3| M. into Killarney can be done
easily before dark.
Other Excursions froni Killarney. — Ascent of
Mount 3fangerton (2,756 ft.). On the way one
«omes to the "Devil's Punch Bowl," a mountain tarn
2,206 ft. above the sea level. It occupies a basin 28
acres in extent. Charles James Fox swam around it
in 1772. Ascent of the Reeks : interesting, but some-
what difficult. Journey to Valentia: it is worth a
day's ride on a Jaunting-car to see the mighty waves
beating against the rocky cliffs of the Atlantic coast.
The train from
Killarney to Dublin
(time, 7 hrs.; fares, 34, 25, or 16s.) reaches the main
line at Mallow Junction. Near Mallow are the ruins
of Kilcolman Castle, where Edmund Spenser wrote
the "Faerie Queene." He obtained, in 1586, a grant of
land from forfeited estates of the Earl of Desmond,
on condition that he should inhabit the country. In
1597 his castle was attacked by the native Irish, to
whom he had rendered himself obnoxious, and his in-
fant child perished in the flames which destroyed his
home. He fled to London, and died of a broken heart.
At Limerick Junction main line from Dublin to Cork
is intersected by the Waterford and Limerick line.
Limerick {Royal Hotel; Q-eorge; Olentwortli), on
the Shannon, "the noblest of Irish rivers," deserves
a visit, which can be made in a day, including the re-
turn to the line to Dublin. Limerick has about
40,000 inhab., and contains a venerable cathedral
transformed into a Protestant church, and a noble
castle built in King John's time.
Waterford {Adelphi; Imperial) merits a visit,
but is perhaps too far off the line of the vacation
14 WATEEFORD. — CASHEL. — DUBLIN.
tourist. It is a handsome town of 23^000 inhab., on
the Suir; and was tlie scene of many terrible fights
between the Irisli and tlie Danes, Between Limericli
Junction and Dubhn there are many places of histori-
cal importance. From 0001(1' s- Cross Station it is but
5 M. across country to tlie Rock of Cashel, which
rises 300 ft. above the plain. Gasliel was the residencfe
of tlie Kings of Munster ; and there Henry II. received
the homage of Donald, King of Limerick, in ]172.
Edward the Bruce also held a parliament there. Near
Thurles are the ruins of Holy-Cross Abbey, Just
beyond Portaiiington the river Barrow is crossed on
an iron viaduct 500 ft. long. Kildare, " the city re-
nowned for saints," is 30 M. from Dublin. It pos-
sesses the ruins of a cathedral ; and the Chapel of St.
Brigid, called the "Tire House" because ^ is the sup-
posed location of the fire which nuns kept burning night
and day for a thousand years " for the benefit of poor
strangers," is still shown. The " Ourragh," an ancient
race-course, and now used as a military encampment
and practice ground for soldiers, is just beyond Kil-
dare. Sham fights are sometimes given there in the
summer months. Near Hazelhatch station is Celbridge
Abbey, once the residence of Swift's " Vanessa;"
Dublin and Vicinity.
Two days can be spent to advantage in visiting Dub-
lin, provided the weather be fair. May, June, and
August are excellent months for the visit. But the
hurried tourist can manage to secure a tolerable idea of
the Irish capital by a ride of 3-4 hrs. on a jaunting-car,
or by half a day's leisurely walk. Dublin {Shelbourne
Hotel: Gresham, good but rather dear; Morrison's t
Metropole ; Imperial; Earopean ; Abbey ; Royal Com"
IRELAND. 15
mercial; Edinburgh, temperance) is a city of 420,000
inhab., on the river LifFej, which divides it into two
nearly equal parts, and, shortly below the town, widens
into a fine bay, on one side of which rises the Hill of
Howtli, and on the other Killiney Hill, near Kingstown.
Those who do not dread sudden showers should engage
an open car by the hr. (Is. 4d. for first hr., and 6d. for
each additional \ hr.), and drive to the Bank of Ireland,
Trinity College, Dublin Castle, Christ's Church Cathe-
dral, St. Patrick's Cathedral, the General Post-Office,
Nelson's Monument, the Custom House, the Four
Courts, and finally to Phcenix Park. This will enable
one to judge pretty well of the main exterior attrac-
tions. The shops in Dublin are quite as fine as those
of London. The fine mall of Sackville-St., with its cut-
granite Doric column to Nelson, 121 ft. high, is impos-
ing, from Carlisle Bridge. The LifTey is navigable to
this bridge ; but no large vessels come above the
Custom House, the finest building in the city. It
is a handsome quadrangular structure, the principal front
of which faces the river. Notice the allegorical compo-
sition in the central portico. It represents Britannia
and Hibernia in a marine shell, a group of merchant-
men approaching, and Neptune driving away famine
and despair. The dome is 120 ft. high, and bears on its
summit a statue of Hope. From Nelso^i'" Monument, a
good view of the city and suburbs may be obtained. Pee
for ascent, 6d. The statue of the hero is the work of
a native sculptor, Thomas Kirk ; and the sum of ^6,856,
which the memorial cost, was raised by subscription
among Nelson's Irish admirers. The General Post-
Office has a majestic Ionic portico, surmounted by
figures of Hibernia, Mercury, and Fidelity.
The Four Courts, on King's Inn Quay, is the
name of a handsome building, in which are the Courts
16 DUBLIN
of Queen's Bench, Chancery, Exchequer and Common
Pleas. It was begun on the site of an old Dominican
monastery in 1776, and was completed just at the time
of the union of the two nations. Cost about ,£200,000.
The fapade on the river is 450 ft. loug. The great cir-^
cular hall in the centre is lighted by jets of gaSj which
issue from a torcli borne in the hands of a giganlic figure
of Truth. Ncv/ buildings for the accommodation of the
Land Courts have recently been erected near by.
Phoenix Park contains 1,750 acres, fairly M^ell laid
out. Interestiug reviews of troops are sometimes held
there. Monuments %7i the Park. — The Wellington Tes-
timonial, erected in 1817, at a cost of £20,000, by
the Iron Duke^s fellow- townsmen of Dublm. This
quadrangular, truncated obelisk of Wicklow granite
has sunken panels on each side of its pedestal, contain-
ing relievos in metal, three representing military pieces
and the fourth containing the laurel-crowned head of
the hero himself. The battles in which the Duke took
part are inscribed here, and the bas-reliefs are made
from captured cannon. — The Carlisle Memorial Statue,
by Foley, in commemoration of Lord Carlisle's 8 years
of vice-regency. On the r., near the entrance of the
park, is the Military Hospital, and a little farther on
the Constabulary Barracks. Within the park limits the
Lord-Lieutenaut has a summer residence. Zoological
Garden (admission, Is. ; on Sun., 2d.), not far away.
On the S. side of the river Liffey, and passmg from
Carlisle Bridge, through Westmoreland-Si, at the E.
side of which there is a statue of Tom Moore, one
comes to the Bank of Ireland, in College Green. This
was once used as the Parliament House. It was eom-
pleticd in 1787, at a cost of £95,000, but was purchased
m 1802 by the company of the Bank of Ireland for
£40,000 and an annual rental of £240. The entrance
IRELAND. 17
to the lormer House of Lords was by a portico on the
E. side. The House of Lords (visitors admitted) re-
mains unaltered, except that a statue of George III.
occupies the site of the throue. Old tapestries, rep-
resenting the '' Siege of Derry " and " King William
Crossing the Boyne," are worthy of notice, as is also
the mantel-piece of Kilkenny marble. Directly oppo-
site the bank is Trhiity College ; and on either side of
the entrance to it are the famous Statues of Goldsmith
and Burke, by Foley. Trinity was founded in Pope
John XXII.'s time, and was closed in Henry VIIL's
reign, but opened again by Elizabeth, who erected it into
a corporation. Li 1627 a new code of laws was framed
for it. Tlie civil wars of the Protectorate brought its
fortunes to a low ebb ; but James I, and Charles IL
endowed it liberally. The institution, which is open t(*
all creeds, usually assembles about 1,400 students, and
has educated some of the most renowned of modern wits.
The Museum contains Brian Boroilime's harp and the
«harter-horn of King O'Kavanagh ; the noble dining-
hall is decorated with portraits of Grattan, Lord Avon-
more, Chief Justice Downs, Flood, Lord Kilwarden,
Prince I'rederick, father of George III., and Lord
Cairns. Hewitson's fine monument to Provost Bald-
win, in the building on the r. of the first courtyard,
should be seen. The library contains nearly 300,000
volumes, and in the E. end is a very valuable collection
known as the "Fagel Library." Note the Geological-
Museum and Lecture Rooms, in College Park. On
College Green there is an equestrian statue in lead of
William III., erected in 1701 ; and a statue of Grattan.
Dublin Castle requires but slight notice. Nearly
all trace of its original design is now lost. The Vice-
regal Chapel and Apartments, St. Patrick's HaU, the
Portrait Chamber, and the Private Drawing Uoom ar9
18 DUBLIN.
shown i3y ine attendants for small gratuities, except
during " the season." The stained-glass windows of
the chapel contain the arras of all the Lord-Lieutenants,
Good music in this chapel Sunday forenoons. Band
plays in the courtyard mornings.
St. Patrick's Cathedral occupies the site of a reli-
gious edifice built by St. Patrick himself, near the well
in wliich he baptized his converts. The present build-
ing was begun' by Archbishop Comyn in 1190, and
restored and much improved, after the destruction of a
portion of it by fire, under the care of Archbishop
Minot, in 1370. Monuments worth notice inside :
one to Boyle, Earl of Cork ; and one to tiie Duke of
Schomberg, with an epitaph by Swift, who was long
Dean of the cathedral. Two marble slabs mark the
resting-places of Swift and his " Stella " (Mrs. Hester
Johnson). Sir B. L. Guinness, the brewer, had the
cathedral repaired and restored in 1860-63, at a cost
of £140,000. The Lady Chapel .wd>.^ used by George
IV. as Chapter House for the Knights of St. Patrick,
Christ's Church Cathedral is of ancient founda-
tion; but the present structure is comparatively modem.
It was first erected in 1038, and enlarged in later days
by Strongbow and Pitzstephen, and still later by Bay-
mond-le-Gros. It was in Christ Church that the lit-
urgy was first read in Ireland in the English tongue.
Note Earl Strongbow's monumental tomb. The local
guides will tell you the various conflicting reports con-
cerning its authenticity. This edifice, like St. Patrick's,
owes its restoration to a vender of strong drink, who
expended £200,000 on it. Stephen's Green is a hand-
some square surrounded with fine mansions. On the
W. side is the Royal College of Surgeons, erected in
1806-25. Museum: good collection. E. side: Royal
College of Science. In centre of Green, a statue of
George II., by Yan Nast. S. side : the Catholic Uni-
versity, the palace of the Archbishop of Dublin, and
the Slielbourne Hotel. On Earlsfort Terrace is the pal-
ace ill which the Dublin Exhibition of 1872 was held.
It was purchased by Sir Arthur and E. C. Guinness,
and devoted to the public benefit. It contains one
concert hall capable of seating 3,000 persons.
Other Interesting Sights in Dublin. — The Roj/al
Hibernian Academy, erected in 182i for the promotion
of the fine arts (exhibition opens in February ; closes in
July). The National Gallery, with a statue of Dargau
in front on the N. side of Leinster Lawn. Merrion-
Bow and Merrion-St. : the house in which Wellington
was born in 1769 ; and at 30 Merrion- Square, the
mansion where Daniel O'Connell resided for some
years. Birthplace of Tom Moore, 12 Aungier-St.
Royal Dublin Society, and King's and Queen's College
of Physicians, in Kildare-St. The City Hall, with
Hagan's statue of O'Connell inside. The Corn Ex-
change, the meetiug-place of the National Council in
1832, and of the Repeal Association later on. Con-
ciliation Hall, now a corn store, but the scene of many
of O'Conuell's triumphs. Theatre Royal, Hawkins-St.
The Poplin Manufactories : Dublin poplins a.re famous ;
and the industry is rapidlv reviving.
Excursions from Dublin. — ■ To Glasn^vin Cem-
etery, where are graves and line monuments of O'Con-
nell, Steele, and Curran, 2 M. from the city. Botanic
Gardens, near by. — Dublin to Howth : Several trains
d^ily. Distance, 9 M. The peninsular Hill of Howth
is the first landmark sighted on approaching Dublin
from the sea. The route leads past Clontarf the seene
of Brian Boroihme's last victory over the Danes, to
Howth, a pleasant village on the hill. From the har-
bor an excursion in boat may be made to the island of
20 DROOHEDA. — BRAY.
"Ireland's lEye." Boatman's fee, 2s. The Abbey of
Howtli is pleasantly located on a steep overhanging
the ocean. On the Hill of Howth stands an ancient
Cromlech, a huge oblong stone, about 14x12, supported
on numerous others. It is supposed to be a portioi(
of a sepulchral monument to a departed chief. — ■
Malahide {Royal Hotel), 9 M. from Dublin, has a
notable castle and abbey. The altar-tomb in the
ruined abbey is a memorial of the sad history of the
lady who in one day was " maid, wife, and widow,"
— the daughter of Lord Plunkett. — Drogheda (Jm-
perial Hotel), 1|- hrs. by rail from Dublin. This was
the first place attacked by Cromwell in 1649, and was
carried by assault, led by the Protector himself.
Drogheda was also the scene of the " Battle of the
Boyne," fought, July 1, 1690, between the Prince of
Orange and his father-in-law, James II. An obelisk
150 ft. high marks the spot where William began the
attack and where Schomberg fell. Prom Drogheda,
Tara and Kells may be visited.
From Dublin to Braj/ and the Wicklow Mts. is a
charming excursion. Bray, 12 M. from Dublin {Ma-
rine Hotel ; International), beautifully situated; head-
quarters for trips to the Dargle (car, 2s.), to the
Waterfall (car, 4s.), to the Glen of the Downs (car,
3s. 6d.), to Greystones (car, 4s. 6d.). Prom Bray to
the Devil's Glen, the Seven Churches, and the Vale
of Avoca, where "tlie bright waters meet," is a prof-
itable journey. Go by rail from Bray to Rathnew
Stat., from Rathnew by car to Devil's Glen, from
Devil's Glen by car to the " Meeting of the Waters,'*
in all about 38 M., and return by rail to Bray, 28 M.
— From Bray to Wicklow, along the coast by rail, — •
desirable journey in bright weather. The Wicklow
Mt. section is rich in quiet beauty ; the rly. fares along
IRELAND 21
the coast are moderate, and car-dp vers must be held to
the tariff. Purchase one of tlie excellent local guides,
for descriptions of the scenery.
If the tourist decides to go to Wales and England
via Dubliu and Holyhead, he can go to Holyhead via
the North Wall route for 8s. or 4s., or via Kings-
town for 12s. or 8s. We think most American tour-
ists prefer the latter route. By rail from Dublin to
Kingstown, 6 M.; thence across the Irish Channel, 66
M., 4 Krs. There are two through services to London
daily, — one leaving Dublin at 6.45, evening ; the other
at 6.45, morning. Tourists who wish to make the jour-
ney by day would better go to Kingstown in the even-
ing, and sleep on the boat which is to start next
morjiing. This will cost 2s. extra. Then they can
breakfast at their leisure, — if the Irish Channel leaves
thein any leisure.
Kingstown {Royal Marine Hotel ; Anglesea Arms)
is so called because George IV. landed there on a visit
to Ireland. An obelisi: commemorates the royal land-
ing. The refuge harbor embraces an area of 250 acres.
Before the present admirable system of "Irish Lights"
was completed, many serious accidents to shipping oc-
curred near Kingstown.
We give a few fares from various points in Ireland
to the starting-points in England via Kingstown, as
tourists' plans vary widely. Fare from Queenstown
direct to Liverpool, Birkenhead, or Chester, 48s., 35s.
6d ; from Queenstown to London direct, 69s. 6d.,
52s; from Dublin to London direct, 60s., 45s; from
Dublin to Liverpool, Chester, or Birkenhead, 30s.,
22s. 6d.; trom Dublin to Manchester, 33s. 6d., 25s.
The fares to all these places via the North Wall route
to Holyhead from Dublin are considerably lower, —
from Queenstown to Chester, via North Wall, 38s.,
22 MAYNOOTH. — AUBURN.
28s.; from Dublin to Chester or Liverpool, via Nortl
Wall, 20s., 15S.1 _
If the weather is fine, some interesting views on the
Irish and Welsh coasts may be had during the crossing
to Holyhead. The mail packets, Ulster, Munsfer,
Leinster, and ComiaugM^ are remarkably strong, swift,
and spacious.
From Dublin to Galway.
This route takes one from the E. to the " wild west
coast," in 5^ hrs. (fares, 23s. 8d., 19s. 8d., lis. lOd.);
distance, 126^ M. Glasnevin, where Addison, Swift,
Tickell, Sheridan, and other celebrities resided ; and
Maynooth, M'here there is a castle erected in 1426 by
the Earl of Kildare, and the Royal College of St. Pat-
rick,— are interesting. At Mullingar are the remains
of an Augustine priory. AtJilone is an important mili-
tary station. Not far from here the Shannon is crossed
by a magnificent bridge. Just beyond Woodlawn, the
Connemara Mts. become visible to the r. Athenry is
an ancient town, with ruined castellated gates, walls,
and religious establishments. At Oranmore a view of
Galway Bay and the xslands of Arran may be obtained.
Erom Athlone a car may be taken to Auburn, 8 M.
(fare, 6d. per M.). Auburn is "The Deserted Village "
of Goldsmith, audits real name is Lishoy; but since the
famous Oliver gave it the name of Auburn, it has always
retained it. The most interesting relic in the village is
1 The summer tom-ist in Ireland will find it to his advan-
tage to purchase the monthly time-tables (price, 2d.) of the
London and Northwestern, and Midland Rlys. These ex.
cellent books contain a great variety of information about
circular tours in Ireland, in connection with the above-men-
lioued lines.
IRELAND. 23
khe ruined parsonage, where tbe Rev. Charles Goldsmith,
Uie original of Dr. Primrose in the " Vicar of Wake-
deld," struggled for the maintenance of his large family.
Galway {Railway Hotel, at the station ; Royal)
Is a quaint old town, ratlier Spanish in appearance, with
wide gatewa^^s, broad stairs, and many other evidences
of the predominance of Spanish ideas in former times.
For a long period during and after the 14tli century, ex-
tensive t'-ade was carried on between Spain and Galway,
and Irish uierchants made frequent and protracted
visits to Spain. Some of the residences of the mer-
chant princes of old days are now tenement houses, occu-
pied by the very poorest and lowest class. Queen's
College is a handsome Gothic structure, built of gray
limestone. Galway Bay is the finest in Ireland ;
and tlie distance to St. Johns, Newfoundland, is 1,636
M. The "Western Highlands of Connemara,
and the County Clare, including the region rendered
famous by the troubles of landlords and tenants
in the last few years, abound in fine scenery. The
road from Galway to Clifden and Westport, 88 M.
(car fares about i4s. 6d.), passes tlirough the most at-
tractive part of the region. "Westport {Ra.ilioay Hotel;
Connemara) is a pretty town ; and the domain of the
Marquis of Sligo should be visited. See Clare Island,
the ancient residence of Grace O'Malley.
Dublin to Belfast, Portrush, The Giant's
Causeway, etc.
In leaving Dublin for this excursion, the trareller
must consider whether he intends to return to Dublin
and cross to England via Kingstown and Holyhead, or
to cross from Belfast to Glasgow or Liverpool or
rieetwood. If he means to come back to Dublin, let him
24 GIANT'S CAUSEWAY.
proceed thence directly to Portrush, which is the
nearest station to The Giant's Causeway, Dunluce
Castle, etc. The fare to Portrush (180 M.) is 32s.,
23s. 8d., 14s. 9d. The route is by Malahide; The
SJierries, where Saint Patrick is said to have taken
shelter when he was pursued by the Druids ; Bal-
triggan, famous for its stocking factories; Drog-
heda; Dundalk, where Edward Bruce was crowned
King of Ireland; Portadown Junction; Lurgan, a
flourishing town engaged in linen manufactories;
Belfast; Antrim, not far from Lough Neagh;
and Coleraine, long noted for the fineness of its
linens.
Portrush {Northern Counties Railway; Osborne's;
LeeJc's; Portrush) is a pleasant watering-place. The
Causeway may be reached by the electric tramway
passing through Bushmills, or by jaunting-car. On
the way the tourist passes Dunluce Castle, unques-
tionably one of the most picturesque ruins in Europe.
It is 3 M. from Portrush, on an insulated rock about
100 feet above the sea. The surface of the rock is
entirely covered by the ruins of what must have been
an impregnable stronghold. A single wall, not more
than 18 inches broad, connects the castle with the
mainland. Sea view very fine here. Fee, 6d. to Is.,
according to size of party. " The White Rocks," in
which there are many fantastic caverns, are not far
from Dunluce.
The Giant's Causeway. — On arriving engage
guide at the Causeway Hotel. The basaltic rocks are
abundant along the coast here,but the most interesting
formations occur between Portcoon Cave, on the W.,
and Dunseverick C&stle, on the E. If the tourist has
time, he should take the circuit first in a boat, and then
visit the more important of the curiosities by land.
See the Causeways. Little, Middle, and Great ; the
Giant's Gateway ; Giant's Organ ; Chimney Tops; t^^e
IRELAND. 25
Priest and his Flock ; the Pleaskin ; and the Hen and
Chickens. There is a route from the Giant's Cause-
way to Belfast by the coast road, recommended only
to those in no hurry. A whole day must be given to
the trip from Portrush to the Causeway and return.
Londonderry {Jury^s Hotel; Imperial; Commer-
cial; City ; Northern) is on the river Foyle. Me-
morials of the historic "Siege of Derry" are numer-
ous. Ascend the tower of the Cathedral. The old
walls of the town are still preserved as a promenade.
From Londonderry to Portrush it is 2 hrs. by rail
(7s. 6d., 5s. Od., os. 8d) ; from Portrush to Belfast it
is 3 to 4 hrs. (12s., 8s., 5s, 4d.).
Belfast {Imperial; Prince of Wales; Royal) will
remind American visitors of some of our own thriv-
ing manufacturmg towns; and the contrast between
its smartness and vivacity and the dulness and
languor of cities in the South of Ireland will be
remarked at once. In 40 years the population has
increased from 87,000 to 260,000. Two-thirds of
the inhabitants are Protestants. The town stands
on the property of the Marquis of Donegal; and it is
said that hut for long leases granted by the former
proprietor, the income of that nobleman from the
town ahme would amount to £300,000. Belfast is
situated on the Lagan, near the elongated bay known
as Belfast Lough. The port is 130 M. from Glasgow,
and 156 M. from Liverpool. The Irish name of
the town signifies "the mouth of the ford." The
new docks are very fine. On the Queen's Island
is an iron shipbuilding yard, employing nearly
2,000 hands. The White Star steamships are built
there. Buildings to notice : Presbyterian Ch., Rose-
niary-St. ; Payed Academical Institution and Crovern-
ment School of Art; Covi7nercial Buildings; Ulster
Bank; Belfast Bank; Custom House, High-St., and
26 BELFAST.
Albert Square ; the Harbor Office ; the Linen Hall^
with the Belfast Librari/ ; Queen's College, reached bj
the Botanic Road ; Presbyterian College^ University
Square ; Methodist College. Other things to see : Bo-
tanic Gardens, the Cooke statue, Belfast Museum, and
The Flax Mills and Linen Warehouses, Visitors are
readily admitted to most of the mills.
Excursions from Belfast. — To Cave Hill ; to the
Giant'' s Ritig ; to Dimdalk ; to Bangor, the cliief water-
ing-place for the inhabitants of Belfast ; and to Lord
Dutierin's estate of Clandeboye, 9 M. from the city.
The traveller now has liis choice of various route*
for leaving Ireland. If he desires to go direct from
Belfast to Greenock or Glasgow, he can do so by the
Hoyal Mail Steamship Line, daily service (Sun. ex-
cepted); time, 8 hrs.; fare, 12s. 6d. T.^je routes by sea
from Belfast to Liverpool and to London can only be
recommended to those who have a passion for sea
travel Pare to Liverpool, 12s. 6d.; to London, 25s.
A boat leaves Belfast every evening (Srn. exce;^ted),
at 7.45, for Barrow-in-Furness; fare, 12s. 6d. Through
tickets to London (45s. 6d. or 21s. 3d., by the Mid-
land Rly., 1st and 3d class only) are also sold, by this
Barrow route, from various points along whicii the
English Lake Region may be visited.
Ireland covers 32,393 square M., a little less than
Maine, South Carolina, and Indiana ; and has upwards
of 5,000,000 inhab., | of whom are Roman Catholics.
It was Christianized by St. Patrick, in 432. Perpetual
civil wars raged from the 8th to the 12th century. Id.
1172 England conquered much of Ireland, and discon-
tent has been chronic ever since.
NORTH WALES. 27
NORTH WALES.
TTOIiYHEAD {JSF.-Western) affords a picturesque
•^ introduction to some of the most romantic por-
tions of Wales. Those not obh'ged to proceecl at
once to Chester, Liverpool, or London, can spend
2-3 days with pleasure and profit at points along the
line. Holyhead stands on Holy Island, divided by
a small strait from Anglesea, and takes its name
from a monastery founded in the 6th century. Good
view from the hill of the rocky shores, the harbor of
refuge, and the massive breakwater. The promon-
tory of the head is hollowed by the ocean into
caverns, which afford shelter to myriads of seafowl.
There are important Roman remains here. The Ch.
was erected in Edward III.'s time. The neighboring
island of Anglesea, rich in minerals, was a principal
seat of Druidical superstition. It was conquered
with the rest of Wales by Edward L The Britannia
Tubular Bridge, one of the wonders of Great
Britain, is crossed about 21 M. from Holyhead.
This, as well as the Menai Bridge, may be visited
from Bangor. Engineers will be interested in the
Conway and Britannia bridges, and in noting how
the idea that budded in the first structure has fully
blossomed in the later and larger one. See Smiles's
*' Lives of the Engineers " for a description of the man-
ner in which the two Stephensons worked out their
thought; how "the great originator of the railway
system watched with pleased attention the processes
by which the son made quite certain of each step."
The vast tubes were not placed where they now rest
without enormous painstaking and trouble. One of
the spans is 472 ft. in length, and, as it is composed
28 BANGOR.
entirely of iron, expands and contracts with the changes
of temperature. To meet the difficulty, the ends of
the tubes rest on movable rollers, and thus maintain
the line of rail perfect. The Britannia Bridge^ is
more than 100 ft. above the water-level. The Menai
Suspension Bridge, 1 M. nearer Bangor, is also a stu-
pendous work. Its greatest span from point to point"
is 560 ft., and its elevation above the water-way at
tlie higliest tide is 100 ft. It is the longest suspension,
bridge in England or Wales. It was built in the old
coaching days, in the early part of the century. After
crossing this bridge, you have left the island of An-
glesea and are on the mainland.
Bangor {(jfeorge; Railway; Williams' Temper-
ance ; Castlr) lies in a valley between two gi'eat rocky
ridges. On tbe N. is the pretty bay of Beaumaris. See
Cathedral, with monuments of numerous Welsh prin-
ces; the palace of the Bishop of Bangor, and cliaritable
institutions ; and walk to the Menai Bridge. Mt,
scenery fine. The cathedral was built in the 6th
century, destroyed by the Anglo-Normans in the 11th,
rebuilt in the 12th, and burned by Owen Gwyndwr in
1403. The present structure dates from the 16tli cen-
tury, and is a massive construction, with a tower o.
moderate heiglit. Bangor is in the oldest diocese in
Wales. In the vicinity is a slate quarry of immense
extent, in which as many as 2,000 persons are dt times
1 The Tubular Bridge cost £620,000. It is 1,500 ft. ..in
length, and raised sufficiently liigh to allow ships with high-
est masts to pass beneath it. It consists of a wrought-iron
tube made of plates riveted together, 1,513 ft. long. 1,800
men were employed for 4 years on its construction. The
tube^p were first riveted together, floated out on pontoons,
and then raised into their places by hydraulic pressure. The
whole weight is over 10.000 tons., ^
NORTH WALES. 29
employed. See the castle of Lord Penrhyn, in whose
family the quarries are owned. 70,000 tons of slate
are yearly shipped from Fort Fenrhyn.
The rly. now skirts the shore of Beaumaris Bay ;
passes through Fenmaenmawr, near which is a mt. of
the same name, 1,540 ft, high; through the Penbach
Tunnel; and, just before reaching Conway, traverses
the Conway Tubular Bridge, erected by Stephenson
in 1848. It consists of two hollo^w rectangular tubes
of wrought-iron plates, for the up and down trains,
each measuring 400 ft. and weighing 1140 tons.
Con-way {Castle Hotel) has a . castle which entitles
it to the American pilgrim's earnest attention. This
superb ruin is situated on a rock, guarded on two
sides by the Conway River. It was built by Edward I.
During the civil wars this oblong fortress, flanked by
eight embattled towers, was garrisoned for the King,
But the Parliamentary army took it. Charles II. gave
it to the Earl of Conway, who stripped off the precious
stores of timber, iron, and lead. It now belongs to the
Marquis of Hertford. The massive walls of the town,
with their towers and gateways, are still in good condi-
tion. Among the odd old houses in Conway is one
erected in 1577 by Robert Wynne, which is worth a
visit. In the Ch. there are several monuments to
members of the Wynne family. See The College in
Castle-St., now inhabited by poor families. On the
S. E. side of Great Orme's Head, 4 M, by rail from
Conway, is the fashionable watering-place of Llan-
dudno.
Tourists who have a few clays to spend in North
Wales can make a variety of interesting excursions
from Bangor or Conway. From the former point they
may visit Caernarvon (Hotel : Royal Sportsman), an
ancient tcwn, situated partly on the Menai Strait and
so CAERNARVON. — SNOWDON.
partly on the estuary of the Seiont. Caernarvon's chief
object of interest is the castle erected by Edward I,
There Edward II., the first Euglish Prince of Wales
was born. The external walls of the castle are nearly
10 ft. thick.^ Near the Seiont formerly stood a strong
fort, long a residence of the British princes. The view
from the Eagle Tower is remarkably good. See the
Terrace, outside the town walls, also Dniidical circles
in the neighborhood. It is not quite 9 M. by rail from
Bangor to Caernarvon, and in good weather a tramp
along the highway between the two towns will be found
enjoyable. From Caernarvon the Snowdonian region is
easy of access. Roman rains abound in the vicinity;
see site of the Roman station of Segontium. Llanberis,
from which point Snowdon (3,571 ft. high) may be
1 Caei'narvou Castle, says an historian, is a " stupendous
monument of ancient grandeur." It occupies the whole W.
end of the town. Some years ago it seemed as if fast going
to ruin ; its ivy-clad walls appeared to be yielding to the
ravages of time, yet withal retaining a romantic singularity
of their own ; and in 1828 the Eagle Tower — the largest of
all — was struck by lightning, which cracked the walls sev-
eral yards, and displaced large masses of stone. But great
pains have since been taken to restore the fabric ; and it
stands before us to-day a grand and beautiful structure. On
two sides it is washed by the sea, on the third it was of yore
protected . by a ditch, and on the fourth it was shut in by
the town. Caernarvon is. probably only about \ M. from
the site of Segontium, the principal Roman station in North
Wales. The castle became the headquarters of the English '
after the Conquest by Edward, and here he had the treasury
for the taxes exacted from his Welsh subjects. The Eagle
Tower — so named from the figure of the bird standing on
the summit — occupies one end of the oblong court, and has
^'^ree turrets rising from it
NORTH WALES. 51
ascended, is reached by rail from Caernarvon. Llanberis
and Nant Ffrancon are two of the finest passes in
Wales, and the latter is especially beautiful. The road
through it winds under frowning precipices ; and Lake
Ogwen's inky-black water breaks through a chasm
in the rock into numerous cascades, some of them 100
ft. high, that find their way into the rich vale extending
N. to Bethesda and Bangor. A good trip would be
from Bangor to Caernarvon ; thence to Llanberis and
through the Pass to Capel Curig ; thence to Bett-ws-
y-Coed, tlie " Station in the Wood," a delicious sylvan
retreat, where Coe painted some of his most beautiful
pictures. Near by are the Falls of the Comoay.
Returning to the main line, the tourist will find but
two or three other points worthy notice between Con-
way and Chester. Abergele {Bee Hotel') is near
Cave Hill, where there is a fine natural cavern ; and
the mt.-pass in which the Welsh defeated Harold
and, later on, massacred the troops of Henry II. Mrs.
Hemans lived for many years at Abergele. In 1868 a
frightful rly. accident, by which 33 persons were burned
to death, occurred near this stat. RhyJ {Queen's
Hotel ; Bel voir) is a pretty watering-place. A branch
rly. runs thence to the little Welsh cathedral-town of
Si. Asaph; and to Denbigh, a venerable hill-town
with many very quaint old houses, and a stately ruined
castle, on the hill. At Holywell the famous St. Wini-
fred's Well is to be seen. Flint Castle, on a rock by
the sea, was once the prison of Richard II. 13 M,
beyond the train crosses the Dee, leaving Wales.
32 CHESTER.
ENGLAND.
CHESTER {Grosvenm- Hotel ; Queem^s, at the rly
Stat.; Blossom's ; and others more or less ^oorl'i
The curious features of this dehghtful town may be
seen in a single day (or, with the aid of a carriage, is
3-4 hrs.). The traveller who has not already made uj
liis mind should here decide whether he will go directlj
to London, or N. to the English Lakes, and thence to
Scotland. To those who contemplate making an ex-
tensive tour on the Continent, and returning to the
British Islands only late in September or October, we
would recommend a trip from Chester to Liverpool,
and thence, after having seen the sights in that city and
in Chester and vicinity, direct to the English Lakes and
Scotch mts. But many persons will probably like to
go to London and the Continent at once, for a season,
returning N. in August and resuming our English and
Scotch itinerary/ from Chester or Liverpool.
Ancient Chester, on its pretty eminence, is suf&-
ciently quaint and filled with ruins to satisfy the most
curious of Transatlantic travellers. Some kind of town
existed on this site before the Roman invasion, but it
■was the Romans who made the definite foundation.
They chose this place as one of their principal military
stations, called it the " City of the Legions," and made
it the castra of the Twentieth Legion. Vast walls still
•occupy the same ground and carry out the identical plan
ichosen and arranged by the Roman leaders. Chester
was laid waste in the early part of the 7th century by
jEthelfrith, King of the Northumbrians : and then the
memorials of the Roman sojourn were greatly injured.
Tor nearly three centuries Chester lay in ruins, .^in
ENGLAND. SS
907 Alfred the Great's daughter, Ethelfleda, restored
the ruined walls which the Danes had from time to
time used as temporary strongholds ; and from that
day Chester became important in English history. It
was the very last city to hold out against WilUam the
Conqueror ; and a nephew of tiie great Norman was
made Earl of Chester, and built a castle there. Ches-)
ter was especially prominent in the Civil War as the
first city to declare for Charles, and the last to yield to
the Parliamentary forces.
A Walk around the Old Walls may be begun at
East Gate, near the Grosvenor or Blossom's Hotel.
Going N. one comes first to the Cathedral (described
below). Next beyond it, at the angle of the walls
vrhere they turn W. to the North Gate, is the Phcenix
Tower, on which Charles I. stood during the battle of
Rowton Moor and gazed on the defeat of his
army, Sept. 24, 1645. See inscription. Under the
oralis at this point is the Shropshire Union Canal, cut
In the solid rock. Moving on towards the North
Gate, the original Roman walls, terminating in a cor-
nice 6 ft. below the parapet, may be seen. From this
gate there is an extensive view of the Welsh mts. and
of Waverton and Christleton chs. Just outside the
gate is an ajicient Blue Coat Hospital. A little far-
ther on, from a square building on the r. side of the
wall, there is a view of the river and the sea, Elint
Castle, the Training College, etc. Anotlier tower,
once know^n as the Goblin's, but now called Peinber-
ton's Parlor, comes next. It beais a mutilated inscrip-
tion about the " glorious reign of Anne." The Water
Tower, as its name indicates, was once closely ap-
proached by ships ; but the river is now a long way
from the walls. This part of the fortifications was
bombarded by Cromwell in 1645, Within the tower
34 CHESTER.
I ■
is a museum ; on its summit, a telescope. See railway
viaduct and iron bridge over the Dee, near this point.
The City Jail is an imposing structure. From the
Water Gate note the Rhoodee race-course, and beyond*
the river the line villas of Cui:^cn Park. Grosvenov
Bridge, which spans the stream, has a span of 200 ft,
Over the river, in Edgar s Field, is a statue of Pallas.
The Castle, next approached, is a noble pile, erected in
the last century on the site of the ancient one. " Csesar's
Tower " is the only remnant of the old structure. See
near the Castle the Combermere Monument and the
Shire Hall. Drill in the Castle yard afternoons.
Walk on over the Bridge Gate, rebuilt in 1782, to
l^ew Gate (1608), and tlience to East Gate. Outside
the walls, between Bridge and East Gates, is the Ch.
of St. John the Baptist, founded in 689, and rebuilt
in 1574.
*The Cathedral was begun in the 12th century,
and the choir and central tower were finished in the
early years of the 13th. The lady chapel, refectory,
and chapter-house are said to have been constructed
1200-1230. Many portions were greatly altered in
the period between 1485 and 1537. The ch. is almost
entirely built of red sandstone, plentiful in the district.
The restorations carried on for several years past
liave proved highly successful. The E. portion is an
excellent example of Early English style. The choir is
be^tiful : note the Gothic work at the sides ; also the
richly carven Gothic screen of stone, which separates
the nave from the choir ; the bishop's throne, formed
by the shrine of St. Werburgh of miraculous mem-
ory ; and the black and white marble pavement in the
choir. The W. front, though unfinished, is the best.
The lector's pulpit in the refectory ; the colors of the
22d Cheshire regiment, carried at Bunker Hill, in the
ENGLAND, 35
chapter-house; and the great W. window of the nave,
should be remarked. The stained-glass windows are
modern. The cathedral's interior is not so imposing
IS its exterior. Tradition says that a Roman temple to
Apollo once stood on the site. The foundation of two
towers, never completed, was laid in 1508. The Rows,
covered avenues or galleries through the fronts of the
second stories of the houses iii Eastgate, Watergate,
Northgate, and Bridge Sts. (the old Roman ways), are
one of the most striking features of Chester.^ Old
Houses, remarkable for their curious carvings and for
historical associations, are very numerous in Chester.
Note the palace of the Earls of Derby, near the Water
Gate ; and on Lower Bridge-St., leading from Bridge
Gate, the house in which Charles I. resided during the
siege. A Roman sweating-bath may be seen in one of
the houses of the Bridge-St. Row. There are several
Roman crypts, a thousand years old, beneath the an-
cient buildings.
Eaton Hall, one of the country-seats of the Duke
of Westminster, is 3 M, from Chester. Tickets of ad-
mission to the grounds and mansion may be had for
^ Pennant says : " These Rows appear to me to have been
the same with the ancient vestibules, and could have been a
I form of building preserved from the time that the city was
I possessed by the Romans. They were the places where de-
' pendants watched for tbe coming out of their patrons, and in
i which they might walk away the tedious minutes of expecta-
' tion. Plautus, in the third act of his Mostellana, describes
j both their station and use. The shops beneath the Rows
] were the cryptee and apothecse, magazines for the various
I necessaries of the oAvners of the houses." Many of the Rows
( to-day form two terraces, the shops one above the other,
the galleries being reached by flights of steps at convenient
j lUstances.
36 . LIVEKPOOL.
a small sum at the Grosvenor Hotel and of tlie news-
dealers. The house is an elaborate structure, with a
great number of pinnacles and turrets, and is 460 ft.
long. The walk thither, over Grosvenor Bridge and
through the Park, entering by a gateway copied from
the Abbey Gate at Canterbury, is very interesting.
The marble floor in the entry alone cost 1,600 guineas.
There are a few noticeable paintings at Eaton Hall.
Liverpool.
From Chester important hues of railway radiate K
all directions. The traveller may proceed to Liver^
pool, via Runcorn, crossing the celebrated Runcorn^
Bridge ^ and its viaducts, and arriving at the Lime-St.
terminus of the London and Northwestern Railway
(fare, 3s. ; time, a little more than half an hour) ; or
he may go from Chester to Birkenhead, and cross from
this latter place to Liverpool by ferry (lime and fare
about the same, but scenery uninteresting) ; or he may
walk through Eastham, Bebington, etc., to Rock
Eerry, and there cross to Liverpool. We recommend
the walk to Chester yro/« Liverpool for those who have
made their first entry into Europe at the great seaport.
If Liverpool has somewhat shocked their sesthetic
sense, and disappointed their expectations of romancxj
in Europe, Chester will re-establish their enthusiasm,
1 The entire length of this structure is 2 J M. The
bridge is approached upon the Runcorn Viaduct, carried by
33 arches, I of 23 ft. span, 29 of 40 ft. span, and 3 of 61
ft. span. The viaduct is carried over the river Mersey at d
height of 80 ft. by 3 girders of 305 ft. sj^an, each supported
upon 4 castellated piers, stretching over a distance of 27||
chains. The total cost of the structure was £422,400, of
which £41,800 was paid for land.
ENGLAND. §7
Liverpool (Hotels: AdelpM; Northwestern Rail-
way ; Grand ; Lancashire and Yorkshire; Shaftes-
bury Temperance; Impei'ial ; Afigel. Restaurants:
Sainshiiry's Lancheoii Rooms; Bear's Paw; State;
and at stations and hotels) is the port at which many
tourists from the United States first land. It is a
city of over 650,000 inhab., the second seaport in the
United Kingdom, and possesses the finest docks in
the world. See the " Chapter for Travellers" for in-
structions as to Landing at Liverpool. Liverpool is
essentially a modern town. In 1561 it was a liamlet ;
in 1644 Prince Rupert called it " a crow's nest " ; but
in 1871 it numbered half a million. Liverpool's im-
portance dates from the upspringing of the cotton
manufacture in England. There have been years in
which the value of its exports has been twice as great
as that of the exports from London ; 30,000 seamen
constantly throng its quays. Its public buildings are
as new as those of American cities. There is scarcely
one older than the present century. '
^ " Liverpool is not even mentioned in the list of towns in
the Doomsday Book of the Norman invaders. It is spoken
of for the first time in 1172, when Henry II. made the con-
quest of L-eland, and embarked his ships in the Mersey.
Towards 1700 its population was hardly 5,0"00. The block-
up of the Dee at Chester profited Liverpool ; and its mer-
chants began to jet rich, above all in the slave trade. As
the painter Fuseli said, when he was asked to admire the
great streets, 'the blood of the negroes seems to have fil-
tered through these carven stones.' The city occupies the
geographical centre between Great Britain and Ireland. It
is the only point of convergence for domestic exchange be-
tween the British Islands. This central position is also an
38 LIVERPOOL.
The Docks, some parts of which may be seen
from the steamers ascending the Mersey, deserve a
careful visit. Liverpool lies on the r. bank of the
river Mersey; opposite it is the important town of
Birkenhead; and the " silent highway " between is
thronged with ships from every part of the globe.
The dock system extends from the Herculaneum
Graving Dock to the N. part of the Hornby Dock, a
distance of 6 M. An electric elevated road, running
from Seaforth Sands to Dingle, passes by the whole
line of docks (3d., 2d.). All intervening space is filled
with docks and quays, two and sometimes three deep.
The Canning, Salthouse, George's, King's, Queen's, and
Brunswick Docks, and the Queen's and Prince's Half-
Tide Basins, were constructed between 1717 and 1816.
In the King's Dock and wareliouses are stored and
bonded immense quantities of leaf tobacco and cigars.
Railways communicate by tunnels directly with the
dock system. The total quay space of the Liverpool
docks is estimated at 26 M.; of the basins, 8 M.;
and the total water area of the docks, 389 acres. The
Prince s Landing Stage, at which passengers from and
to America disembark and depart, is a noble work. It
is said that nearly \ of the trade of the port is with the
United States. The town possesses -^ of the shipping
of Great Britain, \ of the foreign trade, \ of the gen-
eral commerce, and more than \ as umcli trade as the
port of London.
advantage for foreign commerce, which has chosen Liverpool
for its depot. Farther than Bristol from the high sea, which
is the road to America, Africa, and the Indies, Liverpool
overcomes this inferiority hy the advantage which she has iu
being close to the border of a coal basin, which has become
the principal seat of all the manufactures of the entire
world." {Elisee Reclits^
ENGLAND 39
St. George's Hall is one of the raost conspicuous
objects in Liverpool. It is a vast and imposing struc-
ture, completed in 1851, and contains the Assize
Courts, an immense hall for public meetings, and a
concert room. The portico on the S. is very fine. It
surmounts a pedestal of noble steps, 150 ft. wide, ter-
miuating in a pediment, the tympanum of which is
enriched by sculptures representing Britannia ofi'ering
the olive branch, with the lion at her side and the
Mersey flowing at her feet. Mercury is represented
as leading to her from the other side Asia, Europe,
Africa, and America. In tlie great hall is one of the
largest organs in the world, with 108 stops and 8,000
pipes. See the bronze doors which lead to the -Crown
Court. In front of St. George's Hall are statues of
the Prince Consort and Queen Victoria. Four stone
lions guard the principal entrance to the area
between the hall and Lime-St. Not far away is the
Alexandra Theatre. The Wellington Monument, cast
from cannon taken at Waterloo, is also near St. George's
Hall. A little to the N. is Brown's Free Public Library
and Museum, built at the expense of the late Su* William
Brown. Near by is the Walker Art Gallery.
The Municipal Offices, in Daie-St. ; the Town Hall ;
tlie Exchange, which covers two acres, in the commer-
cial quarter, are handsome edifices. On the Exchange
Flags, where the merchants meet, stands a bronze
gtatue of Nelson, by Westmacott. St. John's Market,
a vast structure, is on Great Charlotte-St. The Cus-
tom House and Post-Office, at the junction of Strand- St.
flnd Wapping, has beneath it extensive vaults for the
storing of goods in bond. See the Sailors' Hornet
close by.
40 LIVERPOOL.
Other Objects of Interest in Liverpool. — The
Botanic Gardem, in Edge Lane. Tlie Corn Exchangty
on Brunswick-St. St. Nicholas' Ch., the only real an-
tiquity in LiverpooL The original cliapel was built in
the time of William the Conqueror. In old times a
statue of St. Nicholas, patron of mariners, stood in the
yard. The ch. was restored in 1774. The tower facing
the S. side was erected as one of a series of " signal
steeples." Prince's hudL Stanlei/ Parks ; from the latter
a good view of the sea and the Cumberland hills. St.
James's Cemetery, formerly a stone quarry, and filled
for its present purpose at an expense of ^20,000.
The Mausoleum of Huskisson is here. Sefton Park,
purchiisecl at a cost of £450,090 from the Earl of Sef-
ton, Liverpool has expended vast sums the past feW
years on street nnprovements ; but the 2^oor quarter is
still horribly unhealthy. A walk through it should be
undertaken only in the daylight hours. Estates and
Residences of Noblemen near Liverpool : Knowsley
Hall, owned by the Earl of Derby (see the Stanley
portraits there) ; Croxteth Hall, the Earl of Seftcu's
seat ; Childwall Abbey, a residence of the Marquis of
Sahsbury. Excursions may be made from Liverpool
to New Brighton, down the river b}'' ferry-boat from
the George's Landing stage; and to Eastham, a pretty
pleasure-resort.^
1 " The cities crowded together in the neighborhood of
Liverpool and Birkenhead are very numerous. In an angle
of Cheshire is Neio Brighton, a water-side pleasure-resort.
Toxteth Park is a suburb situated near the Mersey. On the
N. and the E. are Bootle, Linacre, "Walton-on-the-Hill,
West Dei'by, Widnes, Wavertree, Prescot, St. Helens, Ince,
and Newton-in-Makerficld. St. Helens has very important
glass manufactories. The basin of the Ribble contains a
very considerable population. Round the mouths of the mines
ENGLAND. 41
Birkenhead {Queen's Hotel ; TF«9(9cZs/^e), an essen-
tially modern town of about 115,000 inhab., is near
the mouth of tlie Mersey, on the S. shore facing
Liverpool. Constant communication by steam-ferries
and the new tunnel under the Mersey. Ship-building
is the main industry. The docks cover 500 acres.
Here are the docks of the Messrs. Laird, where the
Alabama was built. The Gh., which overlooks the
river, is part of the old Priory of Byrkhed, founded
in Henry II. 's reign.
rise groups of factories. The central city of the basin, Black-
burn, is one of those towns black with smoke, where steam-
engines are incessantly roaring. Clitheroe-on-the-Ribble is
in the midst of a charming country. Between Blackbui'u and
Liverpool the manufacturing towns are close together. Over-
Darwen, Chorley, Wigan, Hindley, are but a stone's throws
from each other. Not far from Wigan is the deepest coal'
mine in Great Britain. On the W. of Wigan is the grea/
market town of OrmesTcirk. Preston, ' proud Preston,'
majestically situated where the Ribble begins to broaden, i?
the most populous city of the whole basin. It is at the samt
time a manufacturing place of the first order, especially foi?
cottons. Lancaster is to the N., distant from the centre
of population. It is no longer a capital except in name,
although it still keeps certain prerogatives as a ducal city.
Built on the site of a Roman military station, it is overlooked
by a castle where there were many important ruins. Lan-
caster, prominent in so many events in the civil wars, is now
a peaceful commercial town, wdth numerous cotton factories.
The Fleetwood Railway unites it with Poulton, on Morecambe
Bay, a maritime summer -resort. The town w^hich attracts
most visitors is Blackpool, situated N. of the Ribble estuary,
on a hill from whence the waters of the Irish Sea can be
seen."
42 GRANGE. — FURNESS ABBEY.
The English Lake District.
Those persons who desire to visit the English Lakes^-
and to proceed thence to Scotland, before going, as the
English saj, "up to London," will find Liverpool their
best point of departui-e. Erom Liverpool to Winder-
mere the distance is 87J M. ; and the fares, 25s. 6d.,
18s. 3d., lis. 6d. This route is through Wigan, Pres-
ton, and Lancaster to Oxenholme Junction, vi^here &
good view of Kendal, the largest town in Westmore-
land, is obtained, and from Oxenholme by branch rail-
way to Wuidermere, whence excursions can be made
in all directions. But vre think the American tourist
would find it interesting to enter this beautiful re-
gion by another route, as follows : Take ticket from
Liverpool to Grange (fares, 21s. 6d., 15s. 6d., 10s.).
You pass through Wigan, Pres-ton, and Lancaster, and
a little beyond this last place change at Carnforth
Junction. The railway thence to Grange carries you
across arms of Morecambe Bay, and beside wild
stretches of quicksand, where hundreds of lives have
been lost. Grange {Grange Hotel, a charming house
on the slope of a wooded hill) is called the " Torquay
of the North." Its climate is mild, even in winter ; and
it is a favorite fashionable resort. Castle Head, once a
Roman station, is near by. Erom Grange an excursion
should be made to Furness Abbey, by the railway
passing through Ulverston, Lindal, Dalton, and other
points in the rich Eurness mining district, and termi-
nating at the important town of Barrow. (Returzij
ticket, 1st class. Grange to Eurness Abbey, 5s.) Tour-
ists will be well repaid for visiting the ruin, and the ex-
cursion may be made in an afternoon by those who have
left Liverpool for Grange in the morning. " The Royal
Abbey of St. Mary of Furness" was founded in
1127, in Henry I.'s reign, by Stephen, his successor
on the throne of England. The monks of the
Cistercian order grew rapidly rich and powerful.
The abbots of Furness were lords in Parliament,
and had their little army. The ruin is now the
property of the Duke of Devonshire. Admission
to the grounds, which are close to the stat., free.
The roofless cli., the lavishly decorated chapter-
house, the scriptorium, and the refectory contain
many interesting memorials. The E. window is
preserved in the sanctuary at Bowness ; it is a superb
specimen of mediaeval glass-painting. Furness Abbey
Hotel is near the ruins. Along the rly. lie beds of hem-
atite iron ore, from which about 600,000 tons are annu-
ally taken. From Ulverston {Sun ; County Hotel) ,
the capital of Furness^ a branch line leads %o Lake
Side, on Windermere Lake. One can also go directly
from Furness Abbey or from Barrow by rail to the head
of Coniston Lake. See time-tables of Northwestern
and Midland Railways, and local guide-books, for a
host of details concerning round trips, circular tickets,
etc. Holker Hall^ a residence of the Duke of Dev-
onshire, may be visited on the way back from Fur-
ttess Abbey to Grange. Stop at Cark, and wa^k to
the Hall, 1 M. The Hall and park are on the L<3ven,
ilowing out of Lake Windermere. Many charming
walks in this vicinity, from the weird Leven Sands up
to and through sweet and romantic Holker Village, with
its cottages nestling among rose-trees and fuchsias, and
on to Cartmel and its ancient Priory. Holker Hall
contains a fine collection of paintings, and the park is
well stocked with deer. Levens Hall may be visited
from Grange ^,t is on the E. side of the river Kent.
44 WINDERMERE.
Tlie gardens on the estate were laid out by Beaumont,
James II. 's faio'^'is gardener. Returning to Grange,
sleep tliere, and ^ake the coach next morning for Newby
Bridge and Lake Side (foot of Lake Windermere) at
about 10 o'clock. This 8 M. drive is delightful. At
Newby Bridge the time-honored and picturesque Swan
Jrrn sliould be noticed. At Lake Side, wliere the train
from Ulverston comes in {Lake Side Hotel, very good),
one may take the steam -yacht which plies regularly on
the waters of Windermere, stopping at the Ferry
(5 M.), Bowness (6 M.), or Waterhead''(ll M.). This
last is the stat. for Ambleside, f M. from the lake ;" and
at Ambleside one is in the very heart of the Lake region.
(Fare from Grange to Ambleside by this route, about 5s.)
A party of four persons would find it worth their while
to hire a carriage at Grange, and drive first to Newby
Bridge ; thence to Lake Side ; then across from Winder-
mere Lake, past Esfhwaite Water (around which Words-
worth used to walk when he was attending school near
by), through the old town of Hawkshead, down to the
Waterhead Quay on Coniston Lake ; and from that point
over the Oxenfell, past Skelwith Bridge and Elter Water
and Brathay, into Ambleside. This can be done easily*
in 5-6 hrs., including stops, and in fine weather is a
bewitching journey. The descent to Coniston and the
approach to Ambleside aiford two of the loveliest
views in England. Make special bargain for carriage;
driver receives fee of 3s. — 3s. 6d. We advise tourists
to hasten to Ambleside, and make their excursions from
there. Tiie Long Sleddale, Kentmere, Troutbeck, and
Busland Vales may be best visited from Windermere
Yillage. or Bowness ; but everything else of importance
is most accessible from Ambleside.^
1 The. traveller will find pocket editions of Wordswortll
and Southey excellent companions ; also. Prof. Wm. Knight'*
ENGLAND. 45
Windermere Lake is 10^ M. long and 1 M, broad
ih its widest part. It is 184 ft. above the sea-level,
and varies in depth from 90 to 240 ft. Opposite Bow-
ness there is a group of about a dozen siuall islands.
The surrounding hills rarely rise above 1,000 ft. At
a few yards from the head of the lake, the rivers
Brathay aud Rothay unite their waters. There are no
such rich effects of color, no such bold and magnifi-
cent mountain masses, as on the shores of the Swiss
lakes ; but there is a bewildering richness of Northern
vegetation, and a constant succession of beautiful land-
scapes such as few othe/ countries can boast. (Boat,
to row yourself. Is. an hr. ; with boatman. Is. 6d. per
hr. ; for the day, with boatman, 10s.)
Bcwness [Crown Hotel ; Royal; Old England) \% jn
a pleasant bay, and commands good views of the upper
reaches of the lake. Ancient parish ch. here. Coaches
every raoruing in summer for Coniston; and for Patter-
dale, by the Trout beck Va'3 and Kirkstone Pass.
Windermere {Rigga's Windermer& Hotel) is 1^
lailea from tlie lake by road, | M. by footpath, and
5 j\I. from Ambleside. Coach each morning in summer
to Patterdale. A short distance from the stat. formerly
stood Elleray, tbe residence of Prof. "Wilson (Christo-
pher North) ; it has been replaced by a new house. Fine
view from Orrest Head, 783 ft. high (i hr.'s walk).
Ambleside {Salutatio7i; Queens; Wh.ite Lion;
Waterhead, at the lake pier) is nearly 1 M. from the
head of Windermere Lake, in a lovely situation at the
foot of Wansfell Pike. Omnibuses often to Grasmere
and to head of lake ; and coaches for Keswick, and
" The Enghsh Lake District. a° interpreted in the Poems of
Wordsworth," price 5s. Baddeley's Guide is capital. Jenkin-
soa's " Practical Guide," price 7s., is a good book. Thei-e ar«
also a dozen small pamphlet guides for 6d. or Is. each.
46 AMBLESIDE. — CONISTON LAKE.
thrice daily for Windermere. Eare from Liverpool to
Ambleside, 28s. 6d., 20s. 6d., 13s. 6d.; from London
to Ambleside, in 7 hrs., 76s. 4d., 58s. lOd., 39s. 6d.
At Ambleside you are on classic ground. The
landlord at the Salutation Inn (which venerable hos-
telry is now in its twenty-fourth decade, although the
building is not) says that Americans always ask him
how far it is to Wordsworth's grave, where Harriet
Martineau lived, etc., but that English tourists never
do. Ambleside is picturesque, although the inhabitants
build ugly residences out of the slate which abounds in
the neighborhood. The park -like vale of Bothay, with
its rich woods and pretty vistas of green fields, seems
made for the home of contemplation. The new Ch. of
St. Mary designed by Sir Gilbert Scott, is in a charm-
ing location. We give a number of short excursions
within walking distance, out of which the tourist must
choose those which strike his fancy. To the Stoch
Ghyll Force (waterfall, 70 ft. high), within the Salutation
Hotel grounds. The distances mentioned below are
computed from the " Salutation." To Rydal Mount,
Ch., and Ealls, 2 M. ; to Skelgill and Wansfell Pike,
8 M.; to the top of Kirkstone Pass, 4 M.; to Grastnere,
under Louglirigg Eell, and back by Nab Scar, 9 M.; to
Clappersgate, IM.; Brathay Ch., 2 M. ; Low Wood
Hotel, 2 M.; Troutbeck Ch., 4 M.; Langdale Ch., 5 M.
Tickets for a circular tour by Coniston, Euruess Abbey,
and Windermere Lake (fares, 8s. 9d., Gs. 6d.), and for
the whole tour, can be obtained at Ambleside or at
Bowness. They are available for 7 days.
Coniston Lake, 5| M. long and f M. broad, is
164 ft. deep in some places. Its surroundings are
fine, and the view down upon it from some neighboring
mt. is charming. A steam yacht plies up and down
the lake 3 times daily (fares. Is. 6d. and Is.), Excur-
ENGLAND. 47
sions up Coniston Old Man (2577 ft.), AVetlierlara, and
Black Combe Mis. are for the leisurely tourist.
Goach Services from Ambleside : For the Langdale
Drive, 6s. ; to Keswick, several times daily, 6s. 6d,
single, and 9s. 6d. return tickets. The Langdale Drive
is from Ambleside to Rothay Bridge, iM.; Skelwith
Bridge, 3; Colwith Force, 41- ; Smithy Houses, 5|;
Dungeon Gill, 9^ ; Chapel Stile, 12|; High Close, 14 ;
Grasmere Ch., 15 1 ; Ambleside, 19|. Much of the
scenery visited on this drive is described in Words-
worth's " Excursion." i
1 Private Carriane Excursions from Ambleside, recom-
mended to tourists who have time at their disposition. — To
Patterdale by Kirkstone Pass, Brothers' Water, and back
(an exceedingly interesting drive, abounding in wild and
romantic scenery), 24 M.; or back by Troutbeck, 25 M.
To Keswick by Rydal Water, Grasmere, Dunmail Raise,
Thirlmere, Castlerigg, and back, 34 M.; or back by St.
John's Vale, 37 M. To Coniston by Tarn Hows, back by
Hawkshead, Blslham Tarn, Wray Castle, to Ambleside, 18 M,
To Coniston by Tarn Hows, back by Hawkshead, Esthwaite
Water, the Ferry, Wray Castle to Ambleside, 23 M.; or
across the Ferry and back to Ambleside by Bowness, 25 M.
Around Windermere Lake by Brathay, Wray Castle, .the
Ferry, Graythwaitc, to Newby Bridi^e, and back by the E.
side of Windcrraore, Bowness to Ambleside, 30 M. Around
Langdale by Clappersgate, Brathay, Skehvith, Blea Tarn,
Little Langdale, Wall End, back by Great Langdale, Red
Bank, Grasmere, Rydal, to Ambleside, 21 M.; or direct by
Elterwater, 18 M. By Clappersgate to Skelwith, Lough-
rigg Tarn, High Close, Red Bank, Grasmere, Rydal,. to Am-
bleside, 12 M. To the top of Kirkstone, back by vale of
Troutbeck and Low Wood, 11 M.; or back by Cook's House,
15 M. To Bowness, back by Windermere, Cook's House,
Vale of Troutbeck, and Low Wood, 17 M. To Hawkshead,
.back by Wray Castle, Blelham Tarn, 12 M.
4S ULLSWATER LAKE.
From Ambleside to UUswater Lajs.^
Ullswater Lake is usually visited either from Amblc'
side or from Keswick. During the tourist season a
coacli leaves Ambleside for Patterdale at 10 a.m. daily.
The route through Ambleside to the Kirkstone Pass
passes in front of the Salutation Hotel, and branches
to the r., passing the old ch. Here and there it is
very steep, winding along the side of the Fell. Below,
on the r., is the Stock Ghyll, on the opposite side of
which is Wansfell Pike. The inn at the top of the Pass,
called the Traoellers' Rest, is said to be the highest in-
habited house m England. It stands 1,475 ft. above
the sea-level. Travellers, independent of the coach,
would better drive round by Troutbeck Bridge and up
ttie bold hills, commanding a view of the Fall of Trout-
beck, to the top of the Pass. Descending from the
Travellers' Rest, you pass on the 1. the Kirk Stone,
which looks, perhaps, a trifle like a ch. from a point
half-way down the nit., towards Brothers' Water, a
little lake, named from the drowaiing of two brothers in
its depths. While at the top of the Pass, you can see
the flames from the blast furnaces in the Barrow dis-
trict, and catch a glim',)se of the Irish Sea. The Dove
Crags, beyond the Brothers' Water Hotel, are extremely
picturesque.
Patterdale {Falter dale Hotel; White Lion) stands
in a pretty valley, a few hundred 3'^ards from the head
©f the lake. 1 M. farther on is the TJllsioater Hotel,
first-class. The scenery all about this point is rich and
varied. The view from the windows of the Ullswater
Hotel over the lake, with its woody shores and its
islands, is very beautiful. (Fares for tour on Ullswater
Lake, by steam yacht, 3§. and 2s. ^ The boats call at
ENGLAND. "49
Howtown, and next land passengers close to Pooley
Bridge, whence coaches run to nicer, the trams at Pen-
rith. From Penritli, rail to Keswick.
UUswater Lake is 9 M. long, f M. broad, and
2JIO ft. deep. The upper reach of the lake is the most
beautiful. Many people prefer this to Lake Derweut-
.water. See Li/ulph's Tower and Ir>t Force, a waterfall
80 ft, high. This cascade is the scene of the incident
on whicli Wordsworth's poein of the Somnambulist is
founded. The journey from Ambleside to UUswater
usually takes 2| hrs. Wordsworth intended to make
his home at a cottage under Place Pell, near Patter-
dale ; but the owner asked more than the prudent man
thought it was worth, and he remained at Grasmere,
The phices in the UUswater district associated with the
poet are best approached by the road from Grasmere
to Helvellyn, leading past Girsdale Tarn.
From Ambleside to Keswick via Rydal
Mount and Grasmere.
T]iose persons who have not taken the Langdale
Drive, or who have not been at Grasmere from Amble-
side, may visit the old homes and the grave of Words*
worth on their way to Keswick. The coaches stop at
the places of interest. The road out of Ambleside leads
past tlie Knoll, and the ivy-covered residence in which
Harriet Martineau lived for a long time. This house
is on the 1. Thence the route lies up the Rothay valley
to Rydal. Note Fox How, Dr. Arnold's old residence
to the 1., beyond the Pothay. A steep road on the r.
leads out of Pydal to Rydal Mount, where Wordsworth
spent 37 years of his life, and where he died in 1850.
As many of the memorials of the poet in his home
as possible have been preserved unaltered; but the
5'0 GRASMERE.
old picturesque frontage with its 12 win(lows^ aud
the ash-tree, near which hung the "osier cage" of the
doves, are gone. The present owner of the house
dechnes to show it. The location is extremely beauti-
ful. Ri/dal Falls are at the back of Rydal Hall.
Guide at cottage below the ch. Returning to the
main road, tiie traveller passes through tlie gorge
between Nab Scar on tlie r. aud Loughrigg Fell on
the 1. ; sees on the r. Nah Collage, in which Hartley
Coleridge lived for a long time, and where he died;
and readies Ri/dul Water, one of the most diminutive
of the lakes. From this point it is but a short distance
to the delightfully situated Grasmere Lake. It is 1 M. '
long and \ M. broad. An island of 4 acres' area lies in
its centre. On the border of this lake is the Frmce of
Wales Eolel, a good house. Grasmere {Rothay Hotel ;
Swan; Red Lion) lies mainly at the ]M. end of the lake,
although many of the newer residences border on the
highway. Knight says: " The cottage at the town end
of Grasmere, to which Wordsworth came with his
sister in the last days of the last century, is, even more
than Rydal Mount, identified with his poetic prime.
It had once been a public house, bearing the sign of
the Dove and Olive Bough, from which circumstance
it was for a long time, and is still, occasionally named
*Dove Cottage.' It is a small, two-storied house."
(See De Quincey's description, in "Recollections of the
Lakes," pp. 131, 137.)^ Grasmere Ch. is the one
* The localities most deeply identified with Wordsworth
are : Grasmere, where he lived so long, and i^s buried ;
Lower Easedale, where he spent so many days witl? his .sister,
by the side of the brook, and on the terraces at Lancrigg,
where The Prelude was written; Rydal Mount, «v]?^re. he
Jived the latter half of his hfe, and found one ^ tu^ most
ENGLAND. 51
which Wordsworth drew in '^The Excursion," and
in its cemetery lie lies buried. Tlie interior is as the
poet described it: there are the " nalced rafters in-
tricately crossed," the oaken benches, the "heraldic
shield" in the " altar window," etc. After a visit to
the ch. you can find some very lovely rambles in the
vicinity. The road to Keswick chrabs Dunmail Raise
Pass, with Steel Fell on the 1. and Seat Sandal on the
r., and crosses the boundary between Cumberland and
Westmoreknd. Descending on the other side, Thirl-
mere Lake appears, with Mt. Helvellyn on the r. and
part of Skiddaw in the distance. "The coach stops
Bt the inn at Wythburn. The ch. at Wythburn is
Dne of the smallest in England. From hence the
ascent of Mt. Helvellya Is easiest. Height, 3118
ft. ; distance to top from Wythburn, 2 1-2 M. ; time
required, 1 1-2 hrs. Thirlmere Lake, which sup-
plies Manchester with water, is 2 1-2 M. long, and
very narrow. From the W. shore many lovely
views may be obtained. From an elevation in
the road just beyond this point, Blencathara may be
seen. The rich Vale of St. John also opens its charm-
ing vistas on the r.; and not far from the King's Head
Inn, at Thirlspot, a glimpse of Castle Bock, the fairy
castle of Sir Walter Scott's " Bridal of Triermain," if
perfect retreats in En.glaiid ; and the old (upper) path be-
tween Rydal and Grasmere, under Nab Scar, his favorite
walk during his later years, where he composed hundreds of
verses. There is scarcely a rock or mountain -summit, a
stream or tarn, or even a well, a grove, or a forest-side, in
all that neighborhood, which is not imperishably associated
with that poet, who at once interpreted them as they had
never been intei-preted before, and added
"The gleam,
Tlie light that never was on sea or land.
The consecration, and the poet's dream." .
52 KESWICK.-DERWENTWATER LAKE.
obtained. An uninteresting stretch of country comes
next ; after which the traveller is gratified with one oi
the most exquisite panoramas in the Lake Region, the
Derwent Valley, with pretty Keswick, and portions
of Bassenthwaite and Derwentwater Lakes.
Keswick (Hotels: Keswick, attherly. stat. ; Royal
Oah; (Queens; 6^eor^e; l/aj^e) is surrounded by a noble
company of mts., with Skiddaw, the chief, 3058 ft.,
towering above them. It is a handsome little town,
and one or two days may be spent in the neighbor- fM
hood. 1 M. from Keswick, at the foot of Lake W
Derwentwater, in Portinscale, is the Deriventwater
Hotel (good). 3 M. from Keswick is the Lodore
Hotel, and behind it the Lodore Fall, which Southey
celebrated in verse. The Barrow and Lodore Water- §
falls, the Bowder Stone, Corrowdale Valley, Honister
Pass, Buttermere and Crummock Lakes, Scale Force,
and the Newlands Valley may be seen on the excursion
called the Buttermere Drive. Excursionists are con-
veyed in open wagonettes (fares 5s., and Is. for driver)
through this pleasant series of sylvan and lake scenery.
Borroivdale is considered one of the finest valleys in
Great Britain. The Wastwater Excursion from Kes-
wick is interesting, but fatiguing.
Derwentwater Lake lies 238 ft. above the sea-
level; is 80 ft. deep in the centre, 3 M. long and 1^ M.
wide. From the Friar's Crag, on this Lake, there is a
magnificent outlook. There- are several islands, one of
which, St. Herbert, was occupied by a hermit monk in
the 7th century. On Rampshohne Island, the Earls of
Derwentwater once had a mansion; and from it Lady
Derwentwater escaped, taking with her the family
Jewels, to procure the release of the Earl, who was
imprisoned in the Tower of London for taking part
in the rebellion of 1715. (Charge for boat with boat-
ENGLAND. 53
man on the lake, 2s. for the first hour, Is. 6d. for every
succeeding hour.) For those pressed for tune, a drive
Touud Derwent water Lake wiil give a view of the prin-
cipal points of scenery. Bassenthwaite Lake begins
nbout 8 M. N. of tlie foot of Derwentwater. It is 4
M. long and about f M. wide. Tlie river Derwent,
which carries the waters from the Derwent and Kes-
wick Lakes, enters it at its head, and leaves it at its
foot, flowing past Cockermouth and into the sea.
Bassenthwaite has three promontories on its E. side,
which is overshadowed by Skiddaw. It is not often
visited by tourists, because it lies on the N. outslcirt of
the Lake District: but it is well worth seeing.
Greta Hail, where the poet tSouthey spent the
best part of his life, is a short distance from Kes«
wick. Walk dov^n the main street to the bridga
crossing the river Greta, whence a good view may be
had of the Hall. It stands on the r., surrounded by
trees. From this point to Crosthwaite Ch. is a pleasant
walk, and in the ch.-yard is Southey's grave. The
edifice contains a monument to the laureate, consisting
of a fidl-length figure. The poetical inscription was
written by Wordsworth. In the chancel is a monu-
ment to Sir John Radcliffe, Knight, an ancestor of the
Earls of Derwentwater. From the tower, good view.
A footpath througii the meadow called Houray was
one of Southey's favorite walks. From this point fine
view of the magnificent group of mts. : on the N., tlte
huge mass of Skiddaw; on the E., Wallow Crag; and
to the S., the Borrowdale nUs. The lead-pencil manu.
factories near Keswick merit a visit; so does an in-
genious model of the Lake District in a museum in the
town. From Castle Head, \ M. outside Keswick, mosi
of Bassenthwaite Lake, a portion of Derwentwater, the
whole of the inter vemng valley, and Mt. Skiddaw may bf
64 KESWICK. — PENKITH.
eeen. St. John and Crostliwaite Clis. may also be seen
5rom this point. Unless the weatiier is fine, it is use-
less to hope for any satisfactory view of the mts. Even
in midsummer the front of Skiddaw is overhung with
mists for a large part of the time. About 1| M. from
Keswick, in a field adjoining the old Penrith road, are
the Druids' Stones, formed of 88 stones, the largest of
which is upwards of 7 ft. high. Near by are the tow-
ering heights of Helvellyn, Blencathara, and Skiddaw,
and, in the distance, to the W., an impressive range.
Ascent of Skiddaw from Keswick. — ■ The distance
io the top is about 5^ M. ; time, there and back, 4-6
hrs. ; charge for pony, 6s. ; guide, 6s. A guide is usually
necessary from Skiddaw to the summit of Blencathara j
4istance, about 6 M. ; ground in places very wet.
The tourist can now go on to Scotland (which course
we recommend), via Penrith and Carlisle ; or can re-
turn to Liverpool (fares from Keswick, 89s. 2d., 27s.
2d., 18s.), and thence go to London by the North
VYestern Rly., arriving at Euston stat. (fares, by all the
lines, 29s., 21s. 9d., 16s. 9d.; distance, 201f M.); the
Midland, arriving at St. Pancras ; the Great Northern,
arrivin.g^ at King's Cross ; or the Great Western, arriv-
ing at Faddington stat. Free parlor ears are run on
express trains, both on the L. & N. W. Ry. and the
Midland Ky.
From Keswick to Carlisle and Scotland^
From Keswick to Penrith, 18 M. (fares, 4s. 4d.,.
Is, lOd.). Penrith {Crown Hotel; George) is charm-
ingly situated. Excursions may be made to Brougham
-Castle and Hall, Arthur's Round Table, Lowther Castle
and the famous Eden Hall, which contains the curious,
ENGLAND. 53
old drinkiug-glass called tlie ''Luck of Eden Hall.**
See ruins of Fenrith Caaile, a favorite residence of
Ricliard III. In the cemetery of tlie parish ch. is the
Giant's Graoe, an ancient mysterious mou)id
Carlisle {County Station Hotel ; Central; Crown
and Mitre), 18 M. from Penrith and 8 M. from the
Scottish border, is the capital of Cumberland. It dates
back to the Roman days, and was close to Hadrian's
wall. In the early wars between England and Scotland
it was of great importance. The Gadle was built by
William Rufus. Within it Mary Queen of Scots was
imprisoned in 1568. The Cathedral does not stand in
the front rank ; but its E. window is commonly said to
be the largest and finest in the Kingdom. The ch. was
originally part of a Norman priory, built of red free-
stone. It contains a monument to Dr. Paley, Arch-
deacon of Carlisle. Note the old glass of the time of
Richard II., in the E. window, and the exauisite details
of the flamboyant Gothic work. The walls and windows
of the choir are Norman; the upper part of the
choir, with the E. end and the roof, Late Decorated.
See the old abbey gate-house ; and the refectory, now
used as the chapter- house ; also quaint houses in the
market-place ; and 1 he Moot Hall.
Beyond Carlisle the rly. enters the Debatable Ground,
where for centuries the borderers waged war on each
other. A little farther on is Ecclefechan (Scotland),
where Thomas Carlyle was born and is buried. The
rly. crosses the Esk, descending from Liddesdale : —
** March, inarch, Eskdale and Liddesdale,
AJi the blue bonnets are over the border."
56 THE LAND OF BUENa
SCOTLAND.
SHORTLY after crossing the Sark River, which is. Mia
boundary between England and Scotland, the route
passes Gretna Junction, near which is Gretna Green,
formerly the resort of iTinaway couples anxious to be
married. These marriages, rendered possible by the dif-
ference between the English and Scotch law, were first
celebrated, in 1760, by a tobacconist named Paisley.
In 1856 they were suppressed by act of Parliament.
Annan Junction was the scene of the spirited escape
of King Edward Balliol, in 1332, from the cavalry of
Archibald Douglass. It was the birthplace of Edward
Irving, in 1792.
The Land of Burns
can be visited from Glasgow ; but it will be more satls»
factory to go from Carlisle to Dumfries, pass the night,
and then pi'oceed to Ayr. The excursion may be made
ill a day.
Dumfries (>S'/a/2''o?i; Commercial; King'' s Arms) is
32| M. from Carlisle (fares, 5s. 6d., 4s. Id., 2s. 9d.).
Here Burns Uved for several years, and here he died,
at the house now known as Burns's. He also lived for
18 months after he became an exciseman, at the foot
of Bank-St. His Mausoleum is in St. Michaels Ch.-
yard ; in the vault beneath, lie Burns and Lis wife
and son. The Oreyfriars Oh. deserves a visit.
Most reader? of Scott will remember the stoiy of Grey-
friars Monasteiy and of "Kirkpatrick's bloody work."
Dumfries is the capital of Nithsdale, and its people call
it ' ' The Queen of the South. " From a border hamlet
SCOTLAND. 37
of the 8th century, with a Franciscan convent and a
castle, it has grown into a prosperous port and factory
town. Excursions from Dumfries: — To Linclu-
den Abbey, 1^ M., beautiful ruins of a 12Lh-ceutury
Benedictine nuunery, and a favorite resort of Burns.
Ainid this sylvan beauty he composed his " Vision
of Libertie." — To New or Sweetheart Abbey, a
lovely Gothic ruin, 7 M. S. The Lady Devorgilla,
who built the abbey (for Cistercians), in 1284, em-
balmed the heart (whence the name) of her husband,
John Balliol, and had it built in over the high altar.
Devorgilla also erected in Dumfries the monastery for
Franciscan friars, before whose altar Robert the Bruce
slew the Red Comyn; and the old bridge across the
Nith.— To Terregles (3 M.) and Trongray (5 M.), in
whose ch.-yard is a handsome monument erected by
Scott to the memory of Helen Walker ( Jeannie Deans).
Irongray is the scene of "The Recreations of a Country
Parson." — To Ellisland farm, where Burns wrote
" Tarn O'Shanter" and the beautiful ode " To Mary
in Heaven." 13 M. from Dumfries is the extraordin-
ary architectural pile of *Drumlanrig Castle, built
by William, first Duke of Queensberry, who wasted
princely sums on it. Torthorwald Castle is a massive
ruin, 4 M. from Dundee. Caerlaverock Castle (9
M.) is a grand old fortress on tlie Solway Firth, de-
scribed in " Guy Mannering." Lochmaben, Ruthwell,
and venerable Kirkcudbright (near Dundrennan Abbey
and St. Mary's Isle) may also be visited. Tourists
who wish to view the extreme S, coast of Scotland
should go to Stranraer from Dumfries (G9 IM.); and
from Stranraer by rail to Ayr and Glasgo .( Tliose who
would make only a short stop at Dumfries should buy
a ticket from Carlisle to Mauchline (81| M. ; fares,
13s. 8d., 10s. 3d., 6s. 9id.) At Mauchline {Loudoun
58 AYR. - ALLOWAY.
Arms Hotel) everything speaks of Burns; his farm of
Mossgiel is 1^ M. N. ; there he was married to Jean
Armour; there his plough turne'd up the mouse's nest.
In Mauchline is " Poosie Nansie's" cottage, cele-
brated for the meeting of the ' ' Jolly Beggars. " If you
have time, walk through woods and fields from Mauch-
line to Montgomerie, There stands the pretty man-
sion where once "Highland Mary" lived as an humble
dairymaid. From Mauchline a branch line, 11 M.
long, leads to Ayr {Station; King's Arms; Dalblair)^
to which many pilgrims go to pay homage to Burns.
It is on the sea-coast, at the mouth of the river Ayr.
Seethe "Twa Brigs" of Burns's poem. The Auld
Brig (now only a footpath) dates from the reign of
Alexander III., in the 13th century; the new bridge,
from 1877. A Gothic tower, 133 ft. high, containing
a statue of Wallace, stands on the site of a tower in
which the hero is said to have been confined. Crom-
well built the fort of Ayr in 1652. But a few frag-
ments remain. Take a carriage to Burns's Cottage,
the Monument, and AUoway Kirk (l^hrs. ; fare, about
4s. for a party). Walk down through the long and
exquisitely shaded avenue to the cottage. In this rude
home the poet was born, Jan. 25, 1759. One room
has been transformed into a kind of museum, and
there some of the poet's original MSS. may be seen.
Not far beyond is Alioway Kirk,roofless and desolate.
The walls are in a fair state of preservation, and the
bell remains; but the woodwork has been all used
up for memorials. New Alioway Ch. is on the other
side of the road. There is little to see in the ' ' auld
haunted kirk," so go on to the bridge over the "Bonny
Doon," built since Burns's time; up stream you will
see the "Auld Brig" immortalized in "Tam o' Shan-
ter." An excursion along the Beautiful Doon in the
SCOTLAND. 69
summer-time is most delightful. The Burns Monu.
ment stands near the new bridge. See, on tiie ground-
floor, memorials of the poet, and the Bible whicli he
gave to " Highland Mary." Good view from upper
part of monument. Note the statues of Tarn O'Slian-
ter and Souter Johnnie, in a grotto on S. N. E. of
Ayr lies a country in which Burns laid the scene of
many poems. It is accessible only by rural teams
or on foot. 3fL Oliphant, where Burns lived when
a child, and Tarbolton, where he passed his early
manhood, and where he wrote " John Barleycorn,"
*' Now, whistling wdnds," etc., are but a few miles
from Alio way.
A rly. ruiis S. from Ayr to Maybole (9 M.), the
old capital of Carrick, and the scene of Scott's "Ayr-
shire Tragedy," near which are the rich ruins of CrosH'
raguel Abbey (founded about 1240) and Bunure Castle ;
also the splendid Cidzean Castle, where the Earls of
Cassilis have held court for centuries, on cliffs over
the sea. 7 M, S. of Maybole are the ruins of Tum-
berrif Castle, made famous by Bobert Bruce and Wal-
ter Scott. 22 M. by rail from Ayr is Giroan, 10 M.
off shore from which Ailsa Craig rises from the sea,
1,100 ft. high, and 2 M. around. The rly. runs farther
S. to Portpatrick ; Stranraer ; Glenluce, near the ruins
of Luce Abbey (founded 1190) and Soulseat Abbey;
picturesque little Wigtown, near Baldoon Castle, the
scene of ocott's " Bride of Laramermoor ; " and otlier
laoalities famous in the chronicles of the borders and
the sea, — the Bruce, the Wallace, and the Cove-
nanters.
Ayr can be visited from Glasgow (40 M.) in an after,
noon. (Fares, 5s., 4s., 3s.) Leaving Ayr' for Glas-
gow, in 6^ M. the train reaches Troon, the chief sea-
port and summer-resort of Ayrshire, 3 M. from the
60 Paisley. — Glasgow.
great rums of Dmidonald Castle, the home of tiie
founder of the Stuart dynasty; a branch Hue runs
(9 M.) to Kilmarnock, where Eurns's poems were first
pubUslied. Beyond Troon, the Glasgow train passes
Irvine, where the poet Montgomery w-as born, where
Burns lived for a time, and where Robert Bruce sur-=
rendered to the English army under Percy. 3| M.
farther on is Kilwinning, wJLh the ruins of an ancient
priory, famous in Masonic annals; and also the impos-
ing Eglinton Castle, the seat of the Mon^o-oTripries.
Paisley {Neiv Globe; County) contains a magnifi-
cent Town Hall ; a jail, which looks like a palace; a
museum of local antiquities and relics ; and the Abbey
Church, founded in 1169. In the Reformation, Paisley
was noted for its intense devotion to the Catholic re^
ligiou. The chapel of the abbey contains a "sound-
ing aisle," so called from its remarkable echo. The
nave, which remains entire, is used as a parish ch.
Paisley (once a Roman fortress) was of no importance
until the last century ; but noM^ its trade includes weav-
ing, shawls, and thread-making (the establishments of
Coats, and Clark & Co. are the largest of their kind in
the world). " Christopher North " was born here.
Not far from Paisley is the farm of Moorhouse, where
Robert Pollok, author of "The Course of Tnue," was
born, in 1798. See Crookdon Canfle, where Queen
Mary was betrothed to Daruley, haif-w^ay between
Paisley and
Glasgow^.
(Hotels: St Enocl^'s; Windsor,- Grand: N. Britisli;
Victoria; Central). The Amori'-^an tourist will find a
vast (leal. to occupy his attention in this, the second
city in population and commercial importance in Great
Britain. A small Roman colony once occupied this
BCOTLA^r). ^^
«itt. About the year 560 St. Mungo founded a
religious house here, and the village was nurtured
by the Church for a thousand years. At the Rt.
formation GUiscow had but 4,000 inhabitants, and
in 1708 it had 12,776. But towards the end of the
18th century it began to increase enormously •,
and in 1901 the population was 760.000. The im-
portal ion of tobacco from Virginia and Mary*
land was long one of the chief branches of industry.
To-day, this town, 60 M. from the sea, rivals Liv-
erpool in shipping, Manchester in cotton-spinning,
Newcastle in coal, the Thames and the Tyne in iron
ship-building, and Wolverhajnpton in iron furnaces.
The perseverance of the Scotch in converting the Clyde
into a vast harbor, cannot be too much admired. Glas-
gow was the first city in Europe to possess a regular
line of steamboats. In 1812-18 steam-packets crossed
the Irish Straits between Greenock and Belfast. It
was in Glasgow that James Watt perfected his famous
invention. In 1718 the first ship, a little craft of 60
tons, left Glasgow for the New World. The statistics
show that 13,071 ships (6,662,501 tons) entered or
left the port in 1880. The commercial fleet of Glasgow
, was 1,0S8 ships and 532 steamers. The movement of
I Greenock was 7,890 ships (1,943,200 tons). .
Walk down to the splendid Glasgow Bridge, from
which there is a fine view of the * Broomielaw, or
j Harbor, on which more than £2,000,000 has been
I spent. The Broomielaw is 400 ft. vv^ide, and extends
down the stream for 1^ M., walled on either side by su-
perb ranges of docks, along Mdiich ships are laid three
jor four deep, ^rom the Bridge upstream a good view
of the Custom House on tlie N. bank is commanded.
iTlie works on the Clyde have cost £8,500,000, <)X
62 GLASGOW.
$42,500,000. In 1760 James Watt reported a maxi.
mum depth of water at the Broomielaw of 3 ft. 3 in.
Now, as the result of the constant di-edging, vessels
drawing 23 ft. of water enter freely. Glasgow is in
the famous Lanarkshire black district, M'hich has
great coal-field, rich also in seams of ironstone. There
are so many blast furnaces here that the sky to the S
and S. E. is lighted up nightly with their glow as if by
a great conflagration.
The E. "section of the city includes the main business
part, and the objects of antiquarian interest. The W,
is the section for residences of the fashionable people \
and on the S. are the great public works. Buchanan
St. is handsomely built, and contains the finest shops
and offices. Argyle-St., 3 M. long (including Trongat^
and Gallowgate), is the main thoroughfare. George-St
is an avenue extending the whole length of tlie citj
and passing through George Square. This is a cen
tral point, and lies close to the two ])nncipal rly. stats
In the centre stands the Scott Monument, a fluted coll
umn surmounted by a gigantic statue. On the E. and
W. are equestrian bronze statues of Queen Yictoricj
and the Prince Consort. There are also figures oj
James Watt, by Chantrey ; the exquisite statue of Si
John -Moore (a native of Glasgow), by Elaxman ; on*
of Di - Livingstone, the traveller ; and others to Camp
bell the poet, Sir Robert Peel, Robert Burns, Lor(
Clyde, and Dr. Graham. On the S. is the Genera
Tout-Office, plain but spacious; and on the E. is the nev
municipal buildings. The Bank of Scotland and th
Merchants' House occupy the W. side. The Roya
Exchange is in the Corinthian style, with rich colon
nades. Strangers are admitted to the news-room, 18'|
ft. long by 60 ft. broad, with a noble arched rool
See Uutcheaonh Hospital. Corinthian buildings with ,
SCOTLAND. 63
high tower, founded in 1641 by two brothers ; and
also in Ingram Street the old Glasgow Assembly Booms;
also St. David's Ch. and tlie Mitchell Library. In
Arr/i/le-St., at the so-called Cross of Glasgow, whence
High-St., Gallowgate, London-St., and Salt market di-
verge, stands an equestrian statue of William III. At
the corner of the High-St. and Trongate formerly
stood the old Court House, in front of which crirahials
were executed, and the ancient jail, of which Walter
Scott speaks. See the Cross Steeple, a relic of the old
municipal splendor. The ancient Saltmarket, Princes-
St., and Kings-St., and the adjacent closes and wynds,
on Saturday evenings afford scenes of violence and
brutality among the lower classes. Walk up High-St.
OR the E. side from the Trongate to the Cathedral.
See old Glasgow College (built 1632-52, in quaint and
gloomy monastic forms), now a rly. stat. Opposite, at
the corner of High and College Sts., is the house in
which Thomas Campbell lived as a student. Farther
on is the place called the Bell of the Brae, where, in
1300, Wallace and his Scots defeated thrice their num-
ber of Englishmen, and Wallace clove Lord Percy's
head in twain ; and a little beyond this is the homely
Barony Ch., once in charge of Dr. Norman MacLeod.
The Cathedral is famous as one of the two Catholic
chs. spared in Scotland by the fury of the Reformation.
The Presbyterian ministers prevailed on the magis-
trates in 1579 to have it torn down ; but tlie corpora-
tions of the city rose in arms, and prevented it. Two
stone "idols" were taken out of their nooks and broken
to pieces, as Scott has told us, " and the auld Kirk
stood as crouse as a cat when the flaes are kaimed oH
her, and a'body was alike pleased." (Admittance daily,
except Sun., 10-6 ; Tues. and Tlmrs., 2d.) Th.s noble
structure is dedicated to St. Kentigern, or St. Mango,
M GLASGOW CATHEDRAL.
the founder of the sec ut' Glasgow, who was buried on
the E. end of the cathedral-site. The edifice is pic-
turesquely located ; and above it, on terraces almost
oriental in their construction, arises the Necropolis,
the finest cemetery in the city, with rich shrubber-
ies and crowds of monuments ; approached from the
cathedral by the Bridge of Sighs. The arrangement
of the monuments is very remarkable, and forms a
noble background to the ancient cathedral. The most
noted monuments are those of John Knox the He-
former, Dr. William Black, Rev. Dr. Dick, and Major
Monteith. Climbing to the summit one overlooks the
Vast city, with its enormous ranges of buildings, and its
forests of chimneys, and of masts along the Clyde, and
the blue hills of Lanark, Renfrew, and Argyll. The
original cathedral was founded in the reign of David I.,
In 1136. Murdo, the famous architect, built it; and
the inscription on his tomb alludes with pride to the
fact. The cathedral is 319 ft. long and 63 ft. wide.
The W. door is rich and beautiful. Its general design
is French, but the mouldings and details are English,
The interior contains 147 pillars, and many of the 159
windows are of very beautiful workmanship. The en-
,trance is by a door in the S. aisle. Before the Refor-
mation, the cli. was divided into two parts, and service
was held in each. Eor interesting details, see Eergus-
%Qi\'^ Architecture. The ^ Crypt is unique in beauty,
and is certainly one of the most perfect pieces of archi-
tecture in Britain. It is supported by 65 pillars (18 ft.
high), seme of which are 18 ft in circumference ; and
illuminated from 41 windows. The piers and groin-
ings are of exquisitely beautiful and varied designs.
In the centre stands the shrine of St. Mungo. At the
S. E. corner is St. Mungo's Well. See also the tomb
of Edward Irricg, who died at Glasgow in 1834:.
SCOTLAND. 65
tn "Rob Roy" there is an interesting description of
this crypt. Other things to note are the ' stained-
glass windows, executed in Munich, for £100,000 (ex-
planations of the windows, 2d.) ; the Dripping Aide,
so called from the perpetual dripping of water from the
roof; the Choir, locally known as the High Ch.,noyf
ased as one of the city chs. ; magnificent organ here ;
behind it, the chapel and the chapter-house. The curi^
ous old ch.-yard is literally paved with stone slabs, with
inscriptions to the memory of local notables.
The new University, the most imposing modern
edifice in Scotland, is approached through West End
Park : take the footpath from the bridge over the
Kelvin. From the platform, good view. The Univer-
sity has a frontage of 600 ft., with fine central tower^
310 ft, high. The architect was the late Sir G. Gilbert
Scott. In general style the buildings are Early Eng-
lish. ^ The buildings will have cost £500,000. The-
museum, rich in mineralogy, geology, and natural his-
tory, is open daily, 10-3 (admission, 6d.). In the
Hunterian Library, valuable series of early printed
books. The University was founded about 1450 by
Bishop Turnbull. In 15 GO Queen Mary endowed it
with a moiety of the confiscated Church property in the-
city. Its renown as a seat of learning culminated in
the last century. Gullen and Black, Hunter and Reid,,
Adam Smith and Watt, are among the great names asso-
ciated with it. Near by is the Botanical Garden. The
Corporation Galleries of Art have valuable collections'
of paintings (by Claude, Cuyp, Teniers, Murillo, etc.) ;
also a marble statue of Pitt, by Elaxman, and por-
traits of the English kings. Galleries open daily, Sun-
days excepted. See 8t. Andreic's Palace and the
Kelmn Grove Park and Museum. The park contains-
a fountain commemorating the introduction of water
5
66 DUMBAKTON CASTLE.
from Loch Katrine. In Kelvin Grove is the Inaustrial
Museum. ' Near the University is the New Western
Injirmary. The beautiful squares and terraces in the
W. contain tlie homes of the rich merchants, the "to-
bacco lords," and the great ship-builders.
Grlasgow Green is a park extending 1 M. along
the Cl,yde, adorned with an obelisk to Lord Nelson,
and the scene of very remarkable open-air preaching
on summer Sunday evenings. Li this park Prince
Charles Edward reviewed his army in 1745 ; and here,
also, Watt was strolling when the central idea of the
steam-engine occurred to him. To the S. of Queen's
Fark is the village of Langdde, where Queen Mary met
with her final defeat, in 1568. A memorial stone marks
the spot wlience Mary witnessed the battle.
Excursions around Glasgovr. — To Greenock,
by the river ; past the suburb of Govan and the ship-
yards of Messrs. Napier, etc. ; the old royal burgh of
Renfrew, near which SomerleJ, Thane of Argyll, was
defeated and slain in 1164 ; Erskine Eerry, Mdiere the
Earl of Argyll was captured, in 1685, in the disguise
of a peasant ; Dalnottar and the craggy Kilpatrick
Hills ; Bowling, near the high ruins of Dunglas Castle
and the end of Antoninus's wall ; and Dunglaspoint,
with its monument to Henry Bell, who first introduced
steam navigation on the Clyde. Dumbarton Castle,
at the junction of the Leven (Loch Lomond's outlet)
and Clyde, is on a rock measuring 1 M. around and
560 ft. high. Part of it bears the name of Wallace's
Tower. The Scottish hero was imprisoned there ; and
his huge two-handed sword is still shown. There is a
tradition that Satan threw Dumbarton Rock at St.
Patrick. The castle is one of four garrisoned in Scot-
land by the British army, and commands the Clyde with
batterie*.. It was the capital of a Roman province.
SCOTLAND. 67
and afterwards repelled the Norwegian Vikings. It
was held by Robert Bruce in 1309; and in 1571 Capt.
Crawford carried it by escalade, at night. In 1653
it was taken by Cromwell's troops. At the portculis
may be seen carven heads of Wallace, and Menteith,
his betrayer. At the summit the remains of a
Roman fort are shown. Queen Mary spent some
time here. 2 M. from Dumbarton is the village of
Cardross, where stood the old castle in which King
Robert Bruce died, in 1329. Greenock {Tontine
Hotel; White Hart; Royal; rail, from Glasgow,
Is. 6d. ; population, 80,000) is one of the chief sea-
ports of Great Britain, and very picturesquely situ-
ated. Vast new docks are being built. The ship-
yards are among the largest on the Clyde. The
ocean steamers for New York take their passengers
and mails at the Tail of the Bank. Fine view, from
the shore, of the mts. of Argyllshire and Dumbarton-
shire. Burns's "Highland Mary" is buried in the
old kirkyard. There is a beautiful statue of James
Watt, by Chantrey, in a memorial building in Union-
St. Travellers going to Oban and Inveraray should
take steamer at Greenock. Nearly opposite is
Helensburgh (Queen's Hotel; Imperial), a pretty
town, much frequented in summer by pleasure-
seekers. The Crareloch is the name of a fine sea-
basin (steamers ply on it), which stretches N. from
Helensburgh for about 7^ M. Its shores are covered
with beautiful villas, Roseneath, Ardincaple Castle,
etc. The famous Glen Fruin lies on the E.
Another good excursion can be made in one day by
Caledonian Rly. to Hamilton, passing throughi^^^^^er-
glen, a royal burgh as early as 1126, Hamilton
{County Hotel; Clydesdale) contains many interest-
ing historical places. See site of King's Head, where
Cromwell lodged during his foray into Scotland; and
68 HAMILTON PALACE. — LANARK.
the old Steeple and PiJhn/, built in tlie reign of
Cimrles I. Ham.ilton Palace, seat of tlie Duke of
Hamilton and Brandon, stands in a beautiful park ;
2 M. S. E. are the ruins of Cadzoic Castle. On Both-
well Bridge, 2 M. !N. of Hamilton, a famous encoun-
ter between the Covenanters and the Royal forces
took place in 1679. A little berond is Bothicell, noted
for its old ch.. "vrhere Robert, Duke of Rolhesav, was
married. Both-well Castle (admission, Tues. and
Fri., 10-3 : see local guide-books) is on the r. bank
of the Clyde, 1 M. from the Tillage. The ruins afford
an almost perfect example of Nonnan architecture.
See the circular towers ; remains of tlie chapel, with
shafted windows : and a circular dungeon called Wal-
lace's Beef-barrel. The walls are covered with ivy and
^'^ild roses. The walk between Hamilton and Bothwell
is extremely interesting.
Lanark {Clydesdale Hotet) was th«. scene of many
of TTallace's exploits. There is a statue of him at the
palish ch. Corra Linn is \\ ]\I. S., a beautiful fall
of 85 ft. ; and the pretty Bonnington Linn is \ .M.
beyond. Stonehyres Linn, is 2i M. N. of Lanark, near
the Cartland Crags. Tickets must be obtained.
The Scottish Highlands.
A Tx.ound Trip from Glasgow to Gtasgoxc by icaj/ of Loch
Lomond, Loch Katrine, the Trossachs, and Callander ^,
from Callander to Ohan : with E.rcnrsions from Oban ro
Stajf'a, lona, and Invert! ess ; andfrotn Oban to Glasgoic,
by the Crinan Canal and Rothesay.
We recommend this route as giving a wide survey
of typical Scotch mt., lake, and coast scenery, within
a brief period and at small cost. The trip' through
the lochs and the Trossachs to CaHander besi'^ at the
SCOTLA>'D.
Qaeen-St. stat. in Glasgow, at T.40 a-M. B«y tt
■::;ket for IiiTersiiaid, the p:>iiit at whiea Ixj^ho-
- - 1 is left rfare. 9<.'3»1.), and prcKjeed by train to
Ij.^^..^-K (20 M.}. The roate passes Dambarton. and
rives a good view of Wallace's Seat: throag-h the
vallev where, in the parish of Cardr-oss Smoliett, the
historian and novelist, was bom: and up the glen of
the Leven's transparent water. At Baiiocfa. the- tram.
stops close to the steamer.
LrOch Lomond is certainly very beantifol when.
the sunlight plays iip''>n the water and on tne guard-
hua. mts. It is about 23 31. long, arnl, at its S. end^
5 M. broad- Under the base of Ben Loaionditis
120 fathoms deep. The area covered by water i*
20^0»>O acres ; 32 islands are scattered over the laker-
bearing ruins of ancient mnnasteries and castles.
3Eost of these belong to the Dnke of ilontrose. wlio
nses In^hmurrm. the largest, as a deer-park. " Loc-h.
Lomond.~ says Ba^ideley. "has neither the match-
less depth and delic-acy of coloring which character-
ises the foot of Loch Katrine, nor the wild grandeur
of Loch Coroisk. njr. in taimess let ns adi the
dignity of LoehMaree; bt^ . . . it blends to-
gether in one scene a greater Tariety of the elements
which we admire in lake sc-enery than aay other
Scottish loeh.'*' The steamer leaves Balloeh Castle^
o» ther. ; passes to the r of Inehmurrin. with its-
mined Casfle, said calls Srst at Balmaha. Xear b^
is InekcaiUoeh, the " Island of Women '' (so called.
'ecarise a nnnnery once existed there). It is the^
. "irying-place of the ilicgregors. The next iandint;-
' lac-e is Lnss, on the L ; a pictaresque little village,
^th a g(X>d hotel. Fine Tiew of the lake from. Stone
Brae hiil As boat mores X., the great mass of Ben
Lomcmd comes fnlly into view. Rrneardennan, on
:., has a hotel. Here is best starting-point for the-
70 BEN LOMOND. — TARBET.
ascent of Ben Lomond, 3,192 ft. high, and the favor,
ite chmb ni Scotland. The rough pony-track begins
opposite the hotel, and chmbs over the ridge between
Loch Lomond and the Loch-ard valley. Ascents also
are made from Inversnaid and Aberfoil. In clear
-weather the castles of Stirling and Edinburgh, and the
Firth of Forth, can be seen. Time from Rowarden-
nan, 2-3 hrs. ; distance, 6 M. ; pony and guide, 8s.
Opposite llowardennan is Glen Douglas (Inveruglas
■ Hotel), from which point a pretty road leads to Loch
Long. Glen Douglas can be reached by feri-y across
the lake. The boat moves on under the shadow of
Ben Lomond, and crosses to the 1. bank, to
Tarbet affords a goocT view of Ben Lomond ; it is
.charmingly situated, 8 M. from head of loch. From
thence coach may be taken to Locli Long, or to In-
verary by Glencroe (24 M. ; fare, 8s.). Loch Long
(salt water) is separated from Loch Lomond by a well-
wooded isUnnus. Glencroe is a wild mt. pass, 860 ft.
high. From here the road to Liverary turns N.,
and skirts the upper edge of Loch Fyne. Inverary
{^Argyll Arms ; George) is a small town celebrated
as the Highland headquarters of the Duke of Argyll
(the MacCallum Mor). Inverary Castle, the ducal
residence, is an ugly building in the midst of beautiful
grounds. This point may be reached by other routes
from Glasgow, especially by the steamer Lord of the
{des (fares, 7s. 6d., 6s., 5s.).
From Tarbet cross Loch Lomond to Inversnaid,
where coaches are taken for Loch Katrine. The head
of Loch Lomond is 3 M. above. I M. above is Rob
Roy's Cave, a narrow opening in tlie bank near the
water's edge, where it is said that Rob Roy kept his
prisoners. Ardlui is the last town on the lake ; eoacheS
to Crianlarich (9 M.), whence rly. to Oban.
SCOTLAND. 71
Inversnaid lias a comfortable iiotel. The^ is a
scramble for places on the coaches for Loch Katrine ;
and the canny Scot exacts 2d. pier dues from each person.
The Inversnaid Waterfall is where Wordsworth met
the " Higliland Girl," of w^'om he saug so sweetly.
Opposite Inversuaid is Inveruglas Isle, on which are
the ruins of an ancient castle of the Macfarlanes. The
road to Loch Katrine (5 M.) lies over a very steep
hill, by the hovels pointed out as the former homes
of Rob Roy and Helen Macgregor; the Fort of Invers-
naid, erected to clieck the depredations of Rob Roy's
band, — Gen. Wolfe was once quartered there; and
Loch Arklef, half-way to Stronachlachar Pier, on a
bay near the W, end of Loch Katrine, At the hotel
here a good lunch can be obtained.
Loch Katrine (or Cateran, " Robbers' Lake ") is
Glasgow's reservoir. The water drunk by the 750,000
people gathered on the banks of the Clyde is conveyed
from this lovely basin for 34 M, The aqueduct re-
quired the building of 70 tunnels, and cost £1,500,000,
A Lilliputian steamer (fare, 2s. 6d.) carries you past
Ellen's Isle (see "The Lady of the Lake "), the Silver
Strand, and the Goblin s Cave ; and affords glimpses
of " huge Ben Venue." The loch is 8 M. long, and
averages | M. wide. To be seen to advantage, it must
have plenty of sunshine, and then it seems " one bur-
nished sheet of living gold."
You land where all the beauties of the lake are
concentrated. If you can, by all means walk up
through the gorge to the Trossachs Hoiel (1 M.). The
Trossachs, the "bristling country," gains in loveli-
ness in a rainy day. There is something weird in a
ride through this leafy glen, witli the rain rustling in
the trees. The gorge extends from Loch Katrine to
Loch Achray, between the range of Ben A'an, on the
73 LOCH ACHRAY.— LOCH VENNACHAl.
r. (1,500 ft.), and Ben Venue (2,393 ft.) on the 1. In
this labyrinth of rocks and mounds, of oak and rowan
and birch, of crag and grove and tarn, the most pro-
saic traveller may well become enthusiastic. Walter
Scott's poems are good companions here. In Scott's
early days there was no road through this pass. The
Trossachs Hotel is a pretty (and dear) house. Excur-
sions thence to Ben Venue and Ben A'an and the
Pass of Beal-nam-bo. By the Aberfoyle coach
from the Trossachs you have finer view but you
miss the Brig o' Turk and much else of great
interest.
Distances hy Road. — Loch Katrine to Trossachs
Hotel, 1 M.; Loch Achray, 2i; Brig o' Turk, 3i:
Loch Vennachar, 4-^; Coilantogle Ford, 7; Callander,
9|-, Loch Achray is noticeable for its tranquil
beauty. It is 8 M. long, and the shores are clad with
copse to the very water's edge. "The Lady of the
Lake " will be found the best guide here. You next
reach the^W^o' Turk, where, m the famous chase, as
Sir Walter informs us, "the headmost horseman rode
alone." Near this bridge over Achray Water is the
blackened ruin of the New Trossachs Hotel. Fine
view of Ben Venue from here. Next comes the Dun-
craggan Huts; and then Loch Vennachar (4 M.
long) . the " Lake of the Fair Valley." On the N.
shore is Ben Ledi, the "Hill of God '"' (2,875 ft.). To
climb Ben Ledi by the Pass of Leny is an
admirable excursion. Here you are in the
real Highland country. The hills are aglow with
purple colors; the black-faced cattle with widely
projecting horns look down defiantly at you
from the steep pasturages; a countryman in kilt
trudges by. The coaches rattle past Coilantogle
Ford, "Clan -Alpine's outmost guard," where K.ode¥"
ick Dhu challenged Fitz James, and bring up in Cal-
SCOTLAND. 73
Wder. Here you may take train to Stirling and
Edinburgh ; but if you desire to see the real High-
lands, continue on our route.
Callander {Dreadnauglit ; Hydropathic; An-
caster Arms) is in the centre of a delicious country.
If M. from the town are the Bracklinn Falls. A pleas-
ant excursion may be made through the Pass of Leny
to Strathyre, returning by train (8^ M. to walk). It
is easy to climb Ben Ledi thence (3 hrs. ; pony and
guide, 10s.), and stand on the sinootli green summit
where the ancient Druid fires were l<ept..
From Callander to Oban. — Rly. fare, 1st class,
12s. ; time, 3-4 hrs. This line is one of the most
beautiful in Scotland, and was one of the most ex-
pensive. Including the harbor-works at Oban, it cost
£615,000. The line crosses the Teith; skirts the base
of Ben Ledi ; and traverses the Fass of Leny, which ex-
tends between Callander and Loch Lubnaig. This
loch is 5 M. long and 1 M. broad, and surrounded by
high mts. Near the Falls of. Leni/ is the churchyard
of the Chapel of St. Bride, noticed in the " Lady of the
Lake." Just beyond Locli Lubnaig the rly. crosses
the River Baloag, and passes Strathyre and King's*
House stat., whence Batquhidder and Loch Voil can be
visited (2 M.). In the graveyard of the old ivy-
covered chapel of Balquhidder is the stone said to cover
the grave of Rob Roy. The hamlet is intimately
connected with the history of the Macgregors. The
road now rises, and gives a good view of Loch Earn
and Ben Vorlich, on the E. It next traverses Glen
Ogle. The rly. is constructed on the side, 300-400 ft.
above the lowest level. The margin of Loch Bocha.rty
above which rises Ben More, is next passed; after
which Crianlarich stat. (coaches to Loch Lomond) is
reached, A fine stretch of Highland landscape is seen
74 LOCHAWE.-OBAN.
shortly before arriving at Dalmally. Just beyond
Dalraally, Loch Awe, one of the most picturesque
of the Highland lakes, 22 M. in length, is reached.
Near it is Be7i Cruachan (3,611 ft.); and in the lake
are many islands, the largest being the Idand of the
Druids. At the N. end stand the ruins of Kilchurn
Castle; and in the centre of the lake, on an islet, are
the ruins of the ancient castle of Ardconnel, a former
seat of the Campbells. The rly. descends towards
the head of Loch Awe, and crosses the Orcliy on a
viaduct. From Taynuilt, on Loch Etive, a steamer
may be taken, and a circular trip to Olencoe (34 M.)
and Balachulish (41 M.) begun. Beyond is Connell
Ferry, near the Falls of Connell. To the r. stands
the ivy-mantled Ardchattan Priory, built in 1231 by
the Lord of Lome, and burned during the wars of
Montrose.
Oban (hotels, good, but expensive: Gt. Western;
Alexandra ; Caledonian ; Station ; King's Arms ;
Columhia ; Argyll ; and on the hill, the Craig-Ard)
Is the most central point for excursions through this
weird northern land of lochs and islands, which has
always had a strange glamour of romance about it.
It is also the meeting-place of southern fashionables
and members of the English nobility and the re-
public of letters. Oban extends along and above a
pretty bay, and is the most accessible place N. of
Glasgow. Vessels can anchor safely within a few
yards of the shore. Dunollie Castle, 1 M. distant,
nobly placed on a pedestal of rock at the N. end of
the bay, and covered with ivy, was built by the
Lords of Lome, and is now owned by their descend-
ants, the M'Dougalls. The rocky island of Kerr era,
4 M. long, serves as a breakwater to the bay.
It was here (in 1263) that Haco, King of Nor-
way, met the Highland chiefs who aided him in his
disastrous raid on the coast of Scotland. Here, also,
SCOTLAND. 75
A.io..c4a^^x ll, died, in 1249. The seaward view from
tlie lieiglits, readied by Craigard road, is very fine,
Scott made the popularity of Oban by iiis poem, " The
Lord of the_ Isles," the scene of which is laid here-
abouts, and in the islands on the W. Fine prome;nade
along the bay. Dunstaffnage Castle, 4 M. N. E'.,
was the seat of the Scottish monarchs for more than
3 centuries (a. d. 300-600). There was the famous
Coronation Stone, finally removed to Westminster.
Admission to the castle, tree.
To Staffa and lona is a sea voyage of about 90 M,
(10 lirs.). Boats leave the pier at 8 a.m. Fare, about
20s., inckiding the landings at Staffa and loua. The
steamer passes on the r. Bunollie and Maiden Inland,
and the Lighthouse, at the S. end of LUmore, near
which is the Ladj/ Rock, where, according to tradition,
a vindictive Highlander left his wife to perish by the
rising tide. The boat next passes through the Sound
of Mull, which separates Mull from the mainland;
crosses the mouth of Loch Aline, on whose shore lived
Dr. Norman MacLeod, the former editor of Good
Words; calls at Tobermory, near the mansion of Alex-
ander Allan, of the Allan Line ; passes the Caliack
Point, whence a good view N. can generally be had as
far as Skve ; and then goes S. to
The Island of Staffa, 8 M. from Mull. It is of
irregular oval shape, and \\ M. around. This island
and lona are owned by the Duke of Argyll. When
the sea is reasonably calm, passengers are conveyed
in small boats into the mouth of Fingal's Cave, 60-
70 ft. in height, supporting an entablature of 30 ft,
additional. The pillars by which it is bonnded on the
W. side are 36 ft. high',' on the E. only 18 ft. The
length is 227 ft. The finest views are obtained througn
the end of the causeway at low water. The front and
7b 10NA.-t!ALEDONlAN CANAL
sides are composed of countless ranges of columns.
A shepherd and his wife were sent to Staila, to take
care of the sheep; but the noice of the waveo was so
dismal that they begged to be taken away 8 M. S.
is lona (4 square M. in area), which was founded in
the 6th century by St. (Jolumba and the Culdees, and
often ravaged by the Norsemen and Danes. Visit the
ruins of the Numiery of St. Mary, dating from the ]3th
century ; and the ancient Cathedral ; also the great
Stone Cross, the only one remaining of 360 once stand-
ing on the island, but broken and thrown into the sea
at the Reformation. The run back to Oban by tlie S.
■of Mull is, in fine weather, very charming. Do not
;forget plenty of wraps and waterproofs.
Another excursion, made in one day, is from Oban to
Lock Etive, Glen Etice, and Glencoe, and thence to
Balachulish, returning by Loch Linnhe. Time, about
10 hrs. ; fare, by rail and steamer, 25s. Another is
from Oban to Ford by the Fass of Mel fort, returning
by Loch Awe and the Oban Uly. This may be made
. comfortably between 9 a.m. and 5 p.m. Fares, 17s.,
15s. 6d. Another is to Fort William, Ben. Nevis, and
. Banavie, interesting, but long, for vacation tourists.
The Caledonian Canal. — People who have time
to go to Inverness should take steamer through the
great Caledonian Canal, built 1803-47, and 60^ M.
long. It was necessary to cut through only 23 M.,
as the sheets of fresh water which abound in the Great
' Glen of Scotland were utilized. The depth of water is
about 17 ft. The steamer going N. leaves Oban at
5 P.M., and passengers sleep at Banavie {Banavie
Hotel) or Fort William {Caledonian). Loch
Linnhe, through which the steamers pass, is famous
for beautiful scenery. Fort William was one of the
keys of the Highlands, built by Gen. Monk. Note
SCOTLAND. 77
Inverlochj Castle, famous in ancient wars, near the
taouth of the Lundie. Erom Fort William to Banavie
is 3 M. Beyi Nevis, near here, 4,406 ft. high, is the
highest mt. in Scotland. It is a vast mass of brown
porphyry, cleft with glens and fissures ; and on itt
crags the snow lies all summer. The view is 100 M.
in diameter, including all the chief peaks of Scotland.
From Bauavie, the ascent (8 M.) occupies 3^-5 hrs. ■
(descent, 1| hrs.). Glen Nevis is worth a visit. Shortly
after leaving Banavie, the steamer passes (on the r.)
the ruined Tor Castle. On the W. side of Loch Locliy
see the ruined home of Lochiel, whose fidelity and exile
are famous. Loch Lochy is 10 M. long ; and a canal,
2 M. in length, leads to Loch Oich (4 M.), the central
lake of the chain, as well as the smallest and highest.
On its W. shore stands Invergarry Castle, burned in
the revolution of 1745 ; and near the castle is "The
Well of Seven Heads," commemorating the vengeance
on the murderers of the Keppochs. At Aberchalder
the steamer descends 7 locks to Fort Augustus. Pas-
sengers can walk down in about 1^ hrs. At Fort
Augustus is the College of St. Benedict, a vast pile of
buildings in the Early English Gothic style. Loch
Ness, "the loch of the cataract," is 24 M. long, and
has a depth of 130 fathoms. At the pier oi Foyers the
steamer stops long enough to permit a visit to the
beautiful Fall of Foyers (1 M. S.), "the most magnifi-
cent cataract in Britain." The height of the larger
fall is about 90 ft. Burns wrote a fine description of
the scene. There is a charming route along the hills,
between Foyers and Inverness. This is the country
for pedestrian tours. At the N. base of the great peak
of Mealfourvonie, are the ruins of Urquhart Castle^
oesieged in 1303 by the troops of Edward I. The
guides show an arrangement in the windows for pout*
78 INVERNESS.-NAIRN.
ins: molten lead on besiegers. 8 M. from TJrqiihart,
Loch Dochfou?' is entered by a narrow passage, ^ M.
long ; and the steamer presently reaches Muirtown,
a suburb of
Inverness {Alexa7idra; Royal; Caledonian; Station;
Imiperial). This venerable capital of the Highlands
is situated at the mouth of the river ISTess, where the
basins of the Moray and Beauly Firths and the Glen
of Scotland meet. Macbeth, Malcolm Canmore,
James I., Queen Mary, Montrose, and other famous
Scots are connected with its history. The new
Cathedral of St. Andrew is a beautiful decorated
Gothic ch. 6 M. out is the battlefield of Cuiloden,
where the hopes of the House of Stuart were finally
extinguished, in 1746. The cairn of stones marks
the place where the battle took place ; and the large
bowlder shows where the Duke of Cumberland. took
up his position. An excursion may be made from
Inverness to Cawdor Castle, rendered famous by
Shakespeare, and a fine specimen of the old baronial
strongholds. Splendid view from the battlements.
Nairn, 15^ M. from Inverness, is a fashionable resort
for sea-bathing. JSTear it is Aiddearn, where Mon-
trose won a great battle over the Covenanters, who
lost 2,000-3,000 men. The Inverness region was the
scene of Hugh Miller's geological researches. Persons
who have come from Oban to Inverness may go
down to Edinburgh via Stirling (213|- M. ; fares,
34s. 6d., 25s. lOd., 18s.).
From Oban to Glasgow. — We return by the
Crinan Canal. This charming journey may be
made between 8 a.m. and 6 p.m. (fares, 13s., 7s. 6d.);
and we recommend it as the l)est way back.
The Chevalier, Grenadier, Columba, are mag-
nificent boats, equipped on an American scale
of comfort. From Oban the boats go down
the Sound of Kerrera, pass Cylen Castle and
SCOTLAND. 79
ihe island of Mull, through tlie Eh-th of Lome, and
the Little Easdale Sound. There are only one or two
places where the boat emerges into open water, and so
nothing is to be feared from sea-sickness. The route
lies inside the island of Seil to Blackmill Baj, and past
the mouth of Loch Craignish, leaving Shmia and Ltdng
Islands on the r. At Crinan passengers are trans-
ferred from the boat to a little steamer, and carried
through the Crinan Canal, 9 M. long, to Loch Fyne.
The canal was built (in 1801) to obviate the necessity
of doubling the Mull of Kintyre, a dangerous route of
70 M. The views are pretty, and the passage of the 9
locks is curious ; the journey is well worth taking. At
Ardrishaig passengers go on the Columba, a large
and fine steamer. Dinner is served on board (3s.).
Look well to your baggage. From Ardrishaig the boat
moves down Loch Fyne to Tarbert. Good views of
the peaks of Ben Cruachan on the N.^ and the Arran,
(.mts. on the S. After a pleasant passage through the
picturesque Kyles of Bute, a strait between Bute and
the mainland, the boat touches at Rothesay {Queen''.'<
Hotel; Royal; Bate Arms), a handsome town of
about 8,000 inhab., the capital of the island of Bute
(18 X 5 M, in area), standing by a fine bay. Here are
^ the ruins of Rothesay Castle, built before 1100;
and once a royal residence. The dukedom of
j Rothesay was the first conferred in Scotland. The
brother of the Earl of Argyll burned the castle in
1 1685, See the ruins of the choir of the old Kirk of
St. 3£ciry. Rothesay is a favorite summer resort. The
! climate is A^ery mild and genial. Consumptive invalids
I have found a decided benefit at Rothesay. Hydro-
jpathic establishments near the town. From Rothesay
'to Dunoon {Argyll; Crown; McColVs) is a sail of
•10 M. Dunoon is one of the large watering-places on
^0 STIRLING.
the Clyde, ana the neigliborhood is picturesque. From
Dunoon to Greenock, 8 M. by steamer. Passengers
can save about 1 hr. by taking train from Greenock to
Glasgow.
Glasgow to Stirling, Perth, Dundee,
Aberdeen, and Edinburgh.
We now recommend the trt^veller to gojby rail (30 M.;
fares, 5s lOd., 2s. 5d.) from Glasgow dii-ect to
Stirling {Golden Lion; Royal; Lennox), one
of the most interesting towns in Scotland. It is on
the river Forth ; and its Castle stands on the top of a
huge rock overlooking the broad Carse of Stirling.
Here Alexander I. died in 1124, and in 1304 the stout
"^ortress sustained a three-months' siege by Edward L
■All the besieging implemenls in the Tower of London
■were brought up ; and it was due to one of these ter-
rible engines, called "The Wolf," that the castle sur-
rrendered. This was the key of the main passage
Ijetween the N. and S. of Scotland. Edward II.
fought the fatal battle of Bannockburn, in his endeavor
to raise the siege laid to the proud castle. Edward
Balliol captured it after the death of Bruce ; and King
David recovered it only after a violent siege. It was
a royal residence under the Stuarts. James II. and
James V. were born here ; James III. built the Par-
liament House ; James IV. made it his favorite resi-
dence. James V. built the Palace, which occupies the
S. W. portion. The sculptures are very rich and gro-
tesque. A few of the original " Stirling heads " —
WDoden effigies of the Scotch kings — maybe seen in
the old Court-room in Broad-St. Stirling Castle was
taken by Gen. Monk iu 1051, and beat off Prince
Charles in 1745, In the Douglas Room the powerfiij
SCOTLAND. 81
Earl of Douglas was stabbed by Iiis sovereign.
js^ Stirling Castle is now an infantry barrack. The
view from the battlements is imposing. The Vale of
Menteith, Ben Lomond, Ben Venue, Ben A'an, Ben
Ledi, are all distinctly seen. N.-E. are the Ochil
Hills; S., the Campsie Hills; and on the N., the
Abbey Craig, Cambuskenneth Abbey, the Wallace
Monument, and the Bridge of Allan. See the Bruce
Monument ; the Bach Walk W. of the Castle Rock;
the Greyfriars Ch., erected in 1494 by James IV.
(James VI. was crowned there in 1567^ and John
Knox preached the coronation sermon); Argyll's
Lodging and Mar'' 8 Work, the most interesting of
the old houses; the Town House, in Broad-St., in
front of which Hamilton, the last Catholic Arch-
il bishop of Scotland, was hanged in 1571; Gotvan's
{Hospital; the Cemetery (many statues), S. of the
!| Esplanade; the Old Bridge, near which was fought
■ij the battle of Stirling (1297), when the Scots under
.jiWallace defeated the English, A carriage to the
Castle costs 2s. 6d.
Excursions from Stirling. — To Cambuskenneth
Abbey (1 M.), founded in 1147, and once the richest
J abbey in Scotland. — To the Wallace Monument
(by tramway, 2d.), a tower 220 feet high, on a rock
called Abbey Crmg (580 feet). — To Lake of Me?i-
teith and beautiful Aberfoil, on the river Forth. — To
Bridge of Allan (3 M.), resorted to for the Airthrey
chalybeate water, Dunblane (Stirli?ig A?'m.s), near
by, is celebrated for the Cathedral of St, Blane, a
m good specimen of Gothic architecture. It was rebuilt
in 1240, and shattered by the Reformers in 1559.
^Battlefield of Sheriffmuir (1715) close by. Beyond.
Dunblane, is Downe Castle. — To Bannockburn,where-
Robert Bruce and 30,000 Scots defeated Edward II.
and 100,000 Englishmen, restoring the indepen-
82 PERTH. — DUNKELD.
denc€ of Scotland. — To the noble ruins of Linlithgow
Palace, — a favorite seat of the kini^'s of Scotland.
Perth {Station; British; Royal George; Queen's;
>S'a/w/a^«'"o?j-) may be visited from Stirling (69 M.; fares,
5=;. GiL, 4s. 2d., 2s. 9d.) A supeibly situated city,
•of 30,000 inliab., with monuments to Scott and Prince
Albert, and a liandsome new Anglican cathedral. In
the quaint Ch. of St. John, John Knox preached. The
North Inch and South Inch, by the side of the Tay, are
the parks of the city, and were the scene of the battle
described in The Fair Maid of Perth. When Agricola
•established Roman camps hereabouts, Perth was al-
ready a town ; aud from the overthrow of the Picts
until 1437 (600 years) it was the capital of Scotland.
In 1210 it became a royal burgh ; in 1310 Robert
Bruce stormed its walls ; and in 1437 James I. was
murdered here. An old house in Curfew Row is be-
lieved to be that described by Scott as the home of the
" Pair Maid." Bcone Palace, on the site of the
famous old Aljbey of Scone, in which the Scottish kings
were crowned, is 2^ M. N.
The Highland Rly., which extends 144 M. from
Perth to Inverness, and 161 M. from Inverness to
Wick, passes througli some of the loveliest scenery in
Scotland. Dunkeld {Birnam; Royal), on this line,
16 M. from Perth, has a rare old cathedral, and is close
to Birnam Hill. On this line also is the Pass of Killie-
erankie, a remarkable bit of glen scenery. The field
where Dundee's Highland clans crosiied William IIl.'s
redcoats in 1689, is near by. Pitlochrie [Fishe/s
Hotel) and Blair Athole {Athole Arms ; Bridge of
Tilf) are the best points for excursions.
Prom Perth a trip can be made (22 M.; fares, 3s. 6d.,
3s. 6d., Is. 9d.) to Dundee {Queen s Hotel ; Royal ;
Royal British Hotel), the third town in Scotland in
SCOTLAND. 83
population (150,000), and the principal seat of the Brit-
ish linen and jute trades. It is on the N. bank of the
Tay, 12 M. from its mouth, and has a fine range of
docks, covering 40 acres. See the Customs Offices,
and the Ro/jal Arch ; also the Esplanade, running from
'he Craig Pier to Magdalen Point, wliere the Tai)
Bridge had its N. terminus. A square tower, 150 ft,
high, is all that remains of old St. Mary's Ch., founde{
by David, Earl of Huntingdon, on his return from the
Crusades. Tlie Roi/al Exchange, in Albert-Square, the
Albert Institute, and tlie Free Library are worth visit-
ing. Within easy reach of Dundee or Perth is Brechin,
with interesting ruins of a cathedral and castle, and an
ancient round tower ; Montrose^ a quaint little seaport,
once a royal burgh ; Bunottar Castle, towards Aber-
deen, a huge ruin on a rock in the sea ; and Arbroath,
a busy port, with fine ruins of an abbey founded in
1178. 15 M. S. (by rly.) is St. Andrews, a grave,
neat, and picturesque port, with the oldest university
in Scotland (founded 1411), and tlie Madras College.
It is " a perfect Nineveh of ecclesiastical ruins," having
the remains of a noble cathedral and priory, the myste-
rious Tower of St. Regulus, part of the castle-palace
of the primates of Scotland, a beautiful fragment of the
Dominican monastery, and two fine old chs. From
Dundee to Forfar (21 M.; fares, 3s. 8d., 2s. 9d., Is.
9d.) is a pleasant journey. In the Comity Hall of
Forfar is preserved the Witch's Bridle, placed as a gag
on the mouths of the miserable victims burned for
witchcraft. Glamis Castle, 5 M. W. of Forfar, is
a grand old baronial edifice, celebrated by Scott and
Shakespeare, From Forfar those who have the time
may go along the coast (fares, 9s. 6d., 7s. 2d., 4s. 9d.)
j to Aberdeen {Imperial Hotel ; Palace ; Douglas's).
Steamers to Leith aiid ^jondon ; and N. to Wick,
g4 ABERDEEN.— BALMORAL CASTLE.
Thurso, Kirkwall (the Orkneys), and Lerwick (th^
Shetlands). Aberdeen, ''the Granite City," is a finely
built town of 105,000 inh. on a cluster of hills on the
Dee, at its mouth. The Dee is crossed by four hand-;
some bridges. Union- St., 1 M. long, with its vista of
grayish white granite, is much admired. The ancient
E. and W. Cks, contain some curious monuments^
and the tomb of Beattie the poet. See the statue of
Prince Albert ; handsome Gothic Toivn and County
Buildings; the Cross, built in 1686, and covered with
medallions of the Scottish monarchs ; and the hand-
some Ilarischal College (founded 1593). The docks
cover 34 acres and admit the largest ships. Aberdeen
clipper-ships are famous the world over. 1 M. N. lies
Old Aberdeen, the site of the ancient King's College
(1494), famous for exquisite wood carving, in chapel ;
and the Cathedral of St. Machar. The Auld Brig o'
Balgownie, celebrated by Byron in Don Juan, is ^
M. N. The Deeside Kly. runs to Ballater (43^ M. ;
fares, 6s. lOd., 3s. 7id.), whence coaches to Braemar
(18 M. ; fares, 5s., 4s. ; to Balmoral, 2s. 6d., 2s.); and
tourists who have visited Aberdeen may return this
way. Between Ballater and Braemar stands Balmo-
ral Castle, the favorite residence of the late Queen.
It is in the Scottish baronial style, and consists of
two blocks, connected by wings. ' The property wa&
bought by Prince Albert, and comprises 10,000 acres
of cleared land, with 30,000 acres of deer-forest,
Braemar {Invercauld Arms; Fife Arms) is in the
midst of a wildly picturesque country. From this
point one may push on to Olen Tilt and Blair
Athole, and come down through the Killiecrankie
Pass to Perth. Travellers who do not wish to visit
Aberdeen, etc., can go from Dundee tc Edinburgh
by Burntisland.
SCOTLAND. 85^
Edinburgh, Melrose, Abbotsford.
Many persons will content themselves, after the trip
through the Trossachs, to Oban and down, with a trip
from Glasgow to Stirling and Edinburgh. The direct
routes between the two principal cities of Scotland av&
uninteresting. Time, 1^-2;^ hrs. ; fares, by express
train, 6s. 6d., 5s. Distance, 48 M. Stirling to
Edinburgh, 5s. 6d., 3s. lid., 2s. 6d.).
Rdlnhurgh (Balmoral, Royal, Carlton, Old Waver-
ley (temperance). Central, Douglas, Royal British;
ry. hotels at the Waverley and Caledonian Stations;
private hotels. Bedford and Grosvenor) is one of'
the most beautiful towns in Europe ; and history
and legend, uniting their charms, have made it
especially fascinating to the traveller. It has
345,000 inhab. (suburbs included). It is situated
in the N. part of Midlothian, nearly 2 M. from the
Firch of Forth. A large, open valley divides it iuta
the Old and New Towns, the one a kind of epitome of
the strange history of Scotland for the last 500 ^'"ears ;
and the other a singularly handsome and well-buiit
modern town. There is a striking resemblance be-
tween Edinburgh and Athens ; and it was from this
fact that the Scottish capital acquired its title of the
" Modern Athens." A lire destroyed the town in
1537; and the oldest date on any private house is
1657. It was opposite the sloping ridge of rock,
called Arthur s Seat (because King Arthur defeated .
the Saxons near by), that King Edwin, who gives his
name to the city, founded his "burgh" in the 7th
century. For 400 years the city formed part of the
Northumbrian kingdom. Early in the 11th century
Lothian with its castle was added to the kingdom o£'
the Scots. The city was long the favorite capital of"
the Stuarts.
SQ EDINBURGH.
Princes-St. is a terrace, separated from the Old
Town by a broad valley of gardens. In the E. gar-
dens stands the Scott Monument (built 1840-44),
the niches of which are filled with figures of the
great novelist's heroes and heroines. Beneath the
central canopy is a statue of Sir Walter Scott. A
staircase leads to the top (200 ft.). Near by, stand
bronze statues of Livingstone, Adam Black, and
Prof. Wilson (f hs. North). The gardens are divided
into two sections by the Mound, on which stand the
beautiful classic buildings of the Itoyal Institution
and the National Gallery. The former contains
the National Museum of Antiquities and the Statue
Gallery (free Monday, Tuesday, Wednesday and
Saturday, 10-4; 6d. Thursday and Friday). In the
Museum, note John Knox's Pulpit from St. Giles's
Church ; the Solemn League and Covenant of 1638,
signed by Montrose; the Blue Ribbon, worn by
Prince Charles as Knight of the Garter; the Tor-
turing Maiden ; and many Celtic and Roman anti-
quities. The School of Design in this building has
many pupils. The National Gallery (open daily,
10-4; 6d. fee on Thurs. and Fri.) is S.^of the Royal
Institution. Here are good paintings by Van Dyck,
Veronese, Watteau, Teniers, Reynolds, Hogarth,
Landseer and Wilson. The annual exhibitions of
the Royal Scottish Academy take place here from
February to May. Flaxman's statue of Burns is
here. See in W. Princes-St. Gardens statue of
Allan Ramsay, the Scottish pastoral poet. Nearly
opposite the University Club is a statue of the
famous physician, Sir James Simpson. In the West
churchyard is the grave of Thomas de Quincey.
Near the Caledonian Station is Castle Terrace,
on which stands the Synod Hall of the U. P. Church.
Crossing the railway from the West Garden you
reach the base of the Castle Boclc, and may ascend
SCOTLAND. 87
by the Wellhouse Toicer (a part of tlie first town wall,
erected in 145U) to the uppermost walk.
The Castle stands on a precipitous rock about 800
ft, above tiie valle}^ accessible only from the E. side.
This was an impreguable stronghold before the days of
gunpowder. To-day it is an infantry barrack for 1,200
men, and has an armory containing 80,000 stand of
arms. The so-called Half-Moon Battery faces to the
N. E. The main approaches to the castle are by
High-St. and Castle Hill. See the Stone Cross erected
to Scottish soldiers who fell in the Indian mutiny.
You enter the castle by crossing a drawbridge over a
moat. See the State Prison, where many adherents of
tb? Stuarts were confined. On the r. is the Argyll
Buttery ; a little beyond, the Armory, the Prison, the
Old Palace Yard, and the Crown Room (open daily,
11-8). Here are the Regalia, sometimes called the
Honors of Scotland. They consist of a crown (Robert
Bruce's, with which Charles II. was crowned), sceptre,
sword of state (given by Pope Julius II. to James IV.),
treasurers rod of office, etc. Queen Mary's Room is a
small apartment in which Queen Mary gave birth to
James VI. On the wall is a black-letter inscription,
with the Scottish arms. On the Bomb Battery stands
Mons Meg, an enormous gun made at Mons, in Bel-
gium, in 1476, of thick iron bars hooped together.
Erom this battery see the whole of Edinburgh and en-
virons. Here is Queen Margaret's Chapel, the oldest
and highest part of the castle, built about 1050, and
named for Malcolm Canmore's Saxon queen. The
castle has been captured by Henry II., Edward L,
Bruce, Sir Wm. Douglas, and Cromwell ; and repulsed
Priuce Charles's army.
High-St. was once one of the finest in Europe ; but
its cjuaint old houses now compare but poorly with
88 EDINBURGHe
t^iose m the New Town. Note : Cannon-ball (fired
from tlie castle in 1746j sticking in the gable of the
old mansion of the Duke of Gordon; Ramsay Lane, oh
the 1., where lived Kamsay the poet; the General As-
semblij Hall of the Church of Scotland. It was along
tlie W. Bow th'at Montrose and Argyll were conveyed
in the executioner's cart to tlie Grassmarket, the place
of public execution. On the 1., James's Court, where
David Hume wrote part of his History of England,
and where Boswell entertained Johnson in 1773, and
Paoli. Burns lived in Baxter's Close, and Cromwell
in Byre's Close. In Bank-St., the splendid Bank of
Scotland; on the r. the County Hall, near the open
space wdiere stood the old Tolbooth, called The Heart
of Midlothian. The Tolbooth was the House of
Parliament, the principal Court of Justice, and the
prison. Midway in High-St. is St. Giles's Ch., whose
tower is terminated by a huge imperial crown, visible
from afar. The original ch. was built before 1350,
and was the cathedral of Edinburgli. Knox minis-
tered here, and here the Solemn League and Covenant
was signed. The Reformers cast out 40 images of
saints, and divided the building by partition;;, so that
three congregations might worship therein. James
VI., when about to ascend the English throne, here
took leave of the citizens. In the Cryj^t are the tombs
of Montrose and the Bcgent Murray. S. of St. Giles
is Parliament Square. See, in the pavement here, a
stone inscribed "I. K. 1572," which marks the grave
of John Knox. Also, an equestrian statue of Charles
II. On the S., Parliament House, a modern Italian
structure, now used as courts of justice. Parliament
Hall, 122 ft. long and 49 wide, is very handsome. See
statues and portraits of the Scottish jurists. Near by
are the Advocates'' Library and the Signet Library,
SCOTLAND. 89
The first contains 300,000 vols., and a vast collection
of MSS. See here llie Mayence first edition of the
Bible. On the N. E. side of St. Giles's Ch. see the
Cily Cross. Opj)Obite is the Roi/al Exchange. Where
High-St. is inlersccted by the N. and S. Bridges stands
the Tron Church, named from a public tron, or
weighing-machine. When the shopkeepers weiglied
falsely they were nailed up by the ears. Farther
down is John Knox s House (open Wed. and Sat.,
10-4; 6d.). The interior is a labyrinth of small and
low-ceiled rooms. On the outside is the inscription \
^^ Lofe . God . uboue . al . and . j/oor . nichtbovr . as .
yi . self'' Here Knox lived, — 1559-73, — • and here
he died. From Knox's house to Holy rood, High-St.,
is called Canongate. On the 1., Canongate Tolbooth,
built in 1591. Back from the street, the Ch. of the
Canons, built in 1688. In the Cemetery are buried
Adam Smith, Dugald Stewart, and other celebrated
Scots. On the 1., Qiieensberry Rouse, an ancient ducal
palace, where the poet Gay once dwelt ; now used as a
house of refuge.
Holyrood Palace and Abbey was founded by
King David I., who is said to have been saved from
the horns of a stag, driven to bay near this spot, by a^
luminous cross in the sky. The Holy Rood, which
David hitended to deposit there, was a fragment of the
True Cross. The palace (fee, 6d. ; free on Sat.) was
begun by Charles IV., and burned by the English in
ISl-i, and again by Cromwell's soldiers in 1650. The
m.o^t interesting section is Queen Marfs ApurtmentSy
eiibered by a door on the N. side of the inner court.
The rooms on the first floor were occupied by Darnley.
In the little boudoir Rizzio was assassinated while at
supper with Mary, March 9, 1566, by Darnley, Ruth-
yen, and others. The guides show some dark stains
90 EDINBURGH.
ou the floor, said to be Rizzio's blood. The present
palace was rebuilt in the reign of Charles II. The
picture-gallery is hung with 111 hypothetical portraits
of Scottish kings. The Cliapel Royal is a beautiful
but ruinous fragment of the old Abbey, founded bf
David. Charles I. was crowned here in 1C38. In the
vaults are buried David IL, James II., James Y. and
his Queen, and Lord Darnley. Just S. of Holy rood is
the (Queens Park. Arthur's Seat, 822 ft. high, is
behind Holyrood. A good road, the Queen s Drive,
runs round it. The ascent may be made from Holy-
rood by crossing the Park, or by following the drive
to Dunsappie Loch, and then up from thai point. Ou
the hill ar-* the ruins of St. Anthonfs Chapel. See,
near the park-keeper's lodge at St. Leonard's Hill, the
cottage of " Jeannie Deans."
The historic Cowgate, built in 1500, is now one of
the dirtiest lanes in the Old Tow^n. It ends in the
Grassmarket, near the centre of which is the Corn
'Exchange. At the head of the Cowgate stands the
house in which Lord Brougham was born ; and in the
ch.-yard of Greyfriars are the tombs of the historian
Robertson, Allan Ramsay, and other famous men.
Heriofs Hospital, a magnificent turreted quadrangle
(built by Inigo Jones, 1628-50), is worth a visit. The
University (session Nov -April), at the S. end of S.
Bridge, was founded in 1582 by -James VI. It has
one of the best medical schools in Europe. There
are about 2,000 students. Library, 150,000 vols. In
Drummond-St., opposite the College, stood Darnley's
house, where he was blown up in 1567. Near the
head of College Wynd stood the house in which Walter
Scott was born. It was pulled down in 1871. Be-
hind the University is the Edinburgh Museum of Science
and Art. At the N, end of George IV. Brid.ye is the
SCOTLAND. 91
t'ree Public Library erected mainly through the lib-
erality of Mr. Andrew Carnegie.
Crossing the Mound into the Neio Toicn, one finds
the streets as wide and handsome as in the Old they
are narrow and ugly. Go up Calton Hill, at tlie E.
end of Princes-St., and visit Nelson'' s Monument {iae,
3d.); good view from the top. On this hill is the
National Monument to the Scottisli soldiers who fell-
in the Peninsular and Waterloo campaigns, — an im-
finished building, copied after the Parthenon at Ath-
ens ; also, the Observatory^ ; and the Dugald- Stewart
Monument, copied from the Choragic Monument of
Lysic.rates at Athens. Just beyond is Playf air's monu-
ment. At the base of the hill i'^ the Royal High School^
an adaptation of the Temple of Theseus at Athens. To
the S. is Burns' s Monument, erected in 1830. At the
corner of the IST. Bridge, the Post-Offics. In the Begis^
iry Office, on the r. at the end of Princes-St., are auto-
graph letters of Queen Mary, etc. See Wawrley Bridge.
Other Objects of Interest. — The Royal Bank; the
liQwWaverley R. Sta.; the bronze statues of Pitt and,
George IV,, by Chantrey ; St Andrew's Ch„; statue
to Chalmers, the Scottish divine; the Scottish National-
Memorial, erected in 1878, bas-reliefs illustrative of
the Prince Consort's career ; the Edinburgh Philo-
sophical Institution in Queen-St. ; the ^t?iie\y Ejiisco^jal
Cathedral of St. J/rt?'?/, built by Sir Gilbert Scott ; the
Dean Bridge, spRnmng the Water of Leith,106 ft. high;
the Bean Cemetery, vvhere Lords Jeffrey, Cockburn^
Rutherford and Murray, and Prof. Wilson are buried;
the Fettes College ; t e S. Cemetery, at the Grange,
where Hugh Miller Dr. Chalmers, and Dr. Guthrie
are buried ; the Royal Bank Garden; the Vfarriston
Cemetery, where Alexander Smith the poet is buried.
Leith (60,000), the port of Edinburgh, is 3 M.
N., reached by horse-cars and steam-cars ; trains'
every 1-2 hr. There are 2 piers stretching 3,000 ft»
93 LjJilTH.-ROSLIN CHAPEL.
into the Firth of Forth. Walk down one, take ferry
^^eross to the other, and come back on it. Mary
'Queen of Scots had a brilliant reception on landing
here from Calais in 1561. Huge shipbuilding yards,
glass-works, and flour-mills here. Large trade in
^€orn and timber with Baltic ports. The Albert Dock
-covers 14 acres. Leith Fort was built by Cromwell.
W. of Leith is Newhaven {Peacock Inn, cele-
brated for fish dinners, 2s. 6d.). Fishwives re-
markable here for their co.>5tumes, and noted for
■their virtue.
Excursions from Edinburgh. — To Granton Pier,
2 M., stopping to visit the Royal Botanic Gardens
■(admission free). Good view of Edinburgh. Magni-
ficent pier, built by the Diike of Buccleuch. At
'{jranton the English troops that invaded Scotland in
1544 were landed. From the pier, steam ferry to
Burntisland in Fife. — To Trinity, good bathing. —
'To Hawthornden and Roslin Chap'el. Train to
Hawthornden stat. ; fares, Is., lOd., 8d. This charm-
ing mansion, "grafted on an old fortified Peel
lower," was built by the poet Drummond, born in
1585; and here Ben Johnson came to visit him, walk-
ing all the way from London. Under the mansion
are caves, inhabited by natives before huts were
known. Cross the Esk and go along the romantic
glen to Roslin (1^ M.), getting a fine view of the castle
land chapel as you leave the ravine. Battle fought in
1302 on the Iloor near by. Roslin Chapel is the choir
of an unfinished ch.5 founded in 1446. Pergusson
thinks "the chapel owes its beauty entirely to the
profusion of its decorations." The castle, on a mound
.below, is a mere ruin. The Valley of the Esk is
lovely. If you go back to Edinburgh by road, you can
pass by 3Io?^7iingside, and see the stone on which James
I. fixed his standard be^^^-e he set out for Flodden
Field. — Dalkeith Castle, ^■"^-wbattle Abbey, Dalhonsie
SCOTLAND. 93
Castle, Borthwick Castle, Cric.hton Castle, all on or near
the Esk, are well worth visiting.
All Americans should visit Melrose, Abbotsford,
and Dryburgh. Take express tram (Pulliuau car
attaclied) to Melrose stat. (37 M. ; 1 hr. ; fares, 7s.
5d., 5s. 7d., 3s. Id.). Hotels at Melrose: George;
Abbejj ; King's Arms. Melrose Abbey was founded
by David I. in 1126, and completed in 1146. The
monks who dwelt there were among the first Cister-
cians in Scotland. The Abbey was destroyed by Ed-
ward II. in 1322, but rebuilt later uuder the patronage
of King Robert Bruce. The architecture is Second
Pointed, mingled with Flamboyant. The present strnc-
ture dates from about 1375. The Duke of Buccleuch
now owns the Abbey. Entire length of edifice, 258
ft. ; breadth of transepts, 137 ft. The Choir, the Tran-
septs, the Naoe, entered by a wooden gate at the W,
end, and the S. Aisle, are in best preservation. The
Abbey forms a Latin cross, with a square tower, 84
ft. high, in the centre. Beside the high altar, under
tlie noted E. Wiiidow, lies Alexander II. ; and here the
heart of Robert Bruce is deposited. The tomb of the
wizard, Michael Scott, is in the Aisle of St. Mary.
Note the delicate chiselling of the outer side of the
doorway leading into the cloisters. Over the S. door
(outside) is a beautiful sculptured canopy, and above it
a noble window. Above the E. window are figures,
supposed to be David I. and his queen. Under the
fifth window is Sir David Brewster's tomb. Moonlight
etfects quite equal to Sir Walter's enthusiastic descrip-
tion. Some prefer to go directly from Melrose to
Abbotsford, and to see the Abbey on the return. A
one-horse carriage to and from Abbotsford (8 M.) costs
6s. 6d. ; double team, 8s. 6d. The walk is a pleasant
i one. Persons in haste can leave Edinbur<?h at 10.3^
94 ABPOTSFORu. — DRYBURGH ABBEY.
A-.M. ; reach Melrose in 1 lir. ; drive over to Abbots* ,
ford, see it, and return, in 2 lirs. ; give | lir. to Mel-
rose Abbey ; lunch at one of the hotels near by; then
take carriage to Dryburgli Abbey, see it, and return to
Melrose by way of Bemerside Hill, in 2| Iirs.; after
which they can take an evening train S. Abbotsford
(admission, Is.) was long the home of the " Great
Enchanter of the North." The author's study is the
most interesting room. There the old writing-table,
the plain leathern arm-chair, the reference books, seem
to indicate that Sir Walter has but just left them.
The Library (20,000 vols.) contains a bust of Scott,
by Chantrey, and many miniatures. The roof is of
carved oak, designed from models taken from Roslin
Chapel. Tlie Drawing-room, where Sir Wah,er died,
and the little octagonal dressing-room contain many
precious relics. The Armory has a fine collection of
Scotch weapons. Not far away is the Chiefswood
Cottage, where the Lockharts dwelt. "Thomas the
Rhymer" once lived in the neighborhood.
In Dryburgh Abbey (reached as above, or by rail
from Meh-ose to Newtown St. Boswell's, and then l^
M. across country) Scott was buried (in 1832). His
tomb is in the beautiful St. Marys Aisle, and on either
side are the tombs of liis wife and eldest son. Lock-
hart also lies there. The Abbey (admission Is) was
founded in 1150 bv Hugh de Moreville, and destro^^ed,
like Melrose, by Edward I. The Chapter-House is still
entire. On a hill near by is an effigy of Wallace, in
red sandstone.
You can now proceed S. Stop at Durham and
York Edinburgh to London (9 hrs), 57s. 6d., 44s. 9d.,
32s. 8d. ; Melrose to Durham, 19s. 4d., i4s. lOd., 8s.
Hid.; Melrose to YorL 27s. 2d., 20s. 8d., Hs. 2|d. ;
Edinburgh to York, 31s., 24s. Pullman sleeping-car, 8s,
ENGLAND. 95
ENGLAND.
Newcastle, Durham, and York.
JTEWCASTLE-UPON-TYITE {Station Hotel;
■*"^ County) is a place of great industrial interest.
It was Po7is Aelii, the second stat. on the Roman wall.
Up to the Conquest it was called Monhcliester. New-
castle is on 3 hills, on the Tyne, 9t} M. from its mouth.
The Castle-keep remains, with splendid great hall, ora-
tory, king's chamber, and museum of Roman antiqui-
ties. See/S/f. Nicholas's Cathedral {lAth cent.), with
fine spire and rare old monuinents ; St. Andreiv^s, very
ancient ; the Library ; the Royal Arcade; and Stephen-
son's High Level Bridge. Elsivick, 2 M. out, is the
seat of Sir Wm. Armstrong's iinmense ordnance works.
Tynemouth has a beautiful ruined Priory. Newcastle
is enterprising, but grimy ; ' ' the dimmest and smoki-
est place I ever saw," says Hawthorne. Much iron
ship-building on the river. Population with suburbs,
176,000. Made in 1883 an Episcopal See.
Durham {County Hotel; Three Tuns), 15 M. from
Newcastle, stands on a hill almost surrounded by the
river Wear, and is noteworthy for its Cathedral and
Castle. The latter was built by William the Conqueror,
and is the seat of an University. The Cathedral
crowns the eminence on which Durham is built. It
was founded in 1093, replacing an older ch.
"We paused upon the 'brid.ge,and admired and wondered
at the beauty and glory of the scene, with those vast ancient
towers rising out of the green shade, and looking as if they
were base'i npon it. As I saw it then, it was grand, vener-
able, and sweet, all at once; and I never saw so lovely and
06 DURHAM.
magnificent a scene, nor, being content witli this, dc 1 wish
to see a better." — Hawthorne.
King's Bnglisli Cathedrals speaks of the "view of
the castle walls, and the towers of the enormous ct.
rising close beside it, and sheer with the face of the
cliff;" and, indeed, there are few bits of English scen-
ery lovelier than those in old Durham on the Wear
("This river Wear, with its sylvan wildness, and yet so
sweet and placable, is the best of all little rivers," says
Hawthorne) ; or few chs. more majestic in the midst of
a charming landscape. It contains the remains of the
Venerable Bede (see some of his MSS. in the Cathedral
library); those of St. Cuthbert, unearthed in 1827;
tind of Ralph, Lord Nev'ile, who commanded at Ne-
ville's Cross. See The Q%lilee, a splendid chapel; the
'E. Transept, or Chapel of ihe Nine Altars ; the magnifi-
cent Norman Nave, with .ts unrivalled vista ; the Chap-
ter-House, built 1133-4';; the Te-Beum Window; the
Altar Screen, dating f/^m 1380; the Cloisters; the
Abbey Gateway ; eV . Choral services twice daily.
Good' views of th^ O/ihedral from the Pramwellgate
Bridge and the rV. ^cat. King thinks that the cathe-
drals at Lincoln iri Ely alone can be compared with
this for ma'^esty and beauty. Erom St. Giles's Ch.-
yard, from the Prior s .Path, and from Nine Trees, are
excellent views. The Castle (fee. Is.) was long the
residence of the Bishcps of the Palatinate. See the
Keep, now occupied by students; the beautifal Nor-
man Gallery ; the Black Staircase; the Great Rail, with
its many pictures ; the tapestry in Bishop TunstalVs
Gallery] and the very curious old Chapel. Pleasant
walks abound. Excursions to Finchale Priory (3|
M.), dating from 1496, and in a lovely vale beyond the
Kepyer Woods ; to Maiden Castle, a fortress ascribed
to the Roman?., and tiie Moated Granqe ; to Neville's
ENGLAND. 97
Gross, commemorating the capture of David IT. by
Keville in 1346; to Chester-le-Street, 6 M., with a
noble ch. built 1286, near which is Liimley Castle
(Lord Scarborough), with its famous Great Hall and
Bail-Room (time of Edward L), and Lamhton Castle
(Earl of Durham). Erom Durham you may proceed
directly to York (63 M.; fares, 8s. lOd., 7s. 5d., 5s.
6d.). But we recommend you to go (fares, 7s. 3d.,
6s., 4s. 5d.) to
Ripon (JJnicorn Hotel; Crowji), a pretty city on
the river Ure. It hcas been an ecclesiastical site for 12
centuries. The Cathedral was begun in 11^4, roughly
used by the Scots in the Border wars, fell into ruin,
and was rebuilt in the 17t]i century. It was restored
by Sir G. Scott in 1862-73. The most striking point
of view is the W. Front. The nave has a lofty clere-
story, and an oak roof with carved bosses, and some
interesting old stained glass. The library is in the old
Lfidy Chapel, above the chapter-house and vestry. The
Choir Screen is a splendid pile of tabernacle-work. In
the N. Choir Hall was formerly placed the Shrine of
St. Wilfrid. Bipon retains many odd memorials of
the past. In ITigh-St. is St. Anne's Hospital, founded
in Edward lY.'s reign. In Stamergate, chapel of
Boman date. See the Hospital of St. Mary Magdale?se
for Lej^j's, founded 1140. Fountains Abbey, 3 M.
W., within the grounds o[ Studlej/ Royal (Marquess of
Bipon), was established in 1133, The ruins cover
more than 2 acres ; and when the abbey was complete
it occupied 12 acres. Note almost perfect ch. on 1.
Erom the N. transept rises a tower. There is also a
great cloister, and a beautiful vaulted gallery, 300 ft.
long. The Chapter-House has singular aisles, with
double row of columns. Here are many tombs of
the abbots. See, also, the Refectory., the Vaulted
98 HARROGATE.-YORK.
Kitchen, the Frater House. Returning to Ripon,
take train to York (23 M.). On the way is Harro-
gate {Prospect Hotel; Croimi; Prince of Wales), one
of the most charming of English watering-places.
York (Station Hotel, large and convenient; Black
Swan; Harkers York), a city of 75,000 inh., 191
M. from London (fares 27s. 6d., 21s. 3d., 15s. 8d.).
York is said to have been founded 983 years b. c.
In 150 A. D. it was a great Roman station, bearing
the name Eboracum, with an imperial palace. Here
the Emperor Severus died. Here also Constantine
the Great was periiaps born, and his father Cou-
stantius, died, in 307. In the Saxon era York was
noted for the baptism of Edwin of Northumbria by
Paulinus ; and afterwards became the favorite capital
of the Danes, whose chief was defeated by Harold in
1066.
The visitor shoidd first see the City "Walls, 2| M.
around, interrupted here and there by the rivers.
These walls were built chiefly in Edward lll.'s time,
but have been often restored since. During the siege
by tiie Parliamentary forces they suffered very much.
CJu the N. and S. W. they follow the old line of the
Roman wall. See Micklegate Bar, a noble archway of
Norman date, flanked by terraces with loopholes and
battlements, and with figures of men-at-arms. Here
the skulls of rebels to the Crown were formerly affixed.
Close by, St. Marys Nunneri/. At Skeldergate, cross
the Ouse by bridge. Beyond the ferry, the Bail Hill,
on which William I. built his castle ; Walmgate and
Monkgate ; an interesting Norman Bar, with Decorated
upper story ; and at the Thirsk Road one may descend
close to the Cathedral, or
York Minster, which Hawthorne called " the most
wonderful ^vork that ever came from the hands Q&
ENGLAND. 99
men." A wooden edifice was built here by Paulinus,
and replaced by a stone basilica, begun by Edwin (in
627). The first Norman bishop erected a new church,
which was added to within the next four centuries.
In 1360-1400 the old Norman choir was entirely
replaced by the present one. The Minster was re-
consecrated, July 3, 1472. The total length is 524-^
ft. ; breadth of nave, 104 ft. ; length of transepts,
322 ft. ; height of central tower, 213 ft. The W.
Front consists of a central facade, flanked by two
towers (201 ft.). The front, with its 3 N. towers, is
Decorated. The buttresses of the towers are very
massive. Between them and the portal are niches
filled with figures of saints. The N. Transept is
noticeable for its beautiful Five Sisters Window,
below which is an Early English arcade. The octa-
gonal cJiapter-liouse, with superb 14th-century win-
dows ("the richest I ever saw or imagined; with all
their brilliancy they were soft as rose-leaves," said
Hawthorne), is the finest in England. Imposing view
of the choir and central tower. Magnificent E. win-
dow, and row of sculptured figures underneath the
sill. The S. Trarisept is fine Early English; beauti-
ful rose window here. The nave aisles are of unusual
width. Beautiful view from the aisle to the end of
the choir. Aisles, 486 ft. The great W. Window,
restored in 1747, arouses the enthusiasm of archajo-
logists, who compare it for beauty and variety with
the E. window at Carlisle. The quantity and ex-
quisite beauty of the stained glass will remind the old
traveller of some of the Spanish churches. This glass
miraculously escaped damage when Fairfax took the
town in 1644. The Puritans broke up most of the
monuments and brasses. Among wall monuments,
note those of Archbishop Sterne, the Earl of Stafford
(son of him who was beheaded), Archbishop Scrope
(mentioned in Shakespeare's Henry IV.), and Arch-
iOO YORK MINSTER.
bishop Markham. Visitors should see the nave in the
evening, v/heii tlie body of the church is beautifully
lighted. The Central Tower is remarkable for its mas-
sive piers. . 'Wx'd Lantern Tower, finished in the 15th ceu'
tury, has a vaulted roof, 180 ft. from the ground. The
iV. Transept has an exquisite series of lancet windows,
filled with red glass. The chapter-house dates from
the 14th century. " I never saw a piece of human
architecture so beautiful," said Hawthorne. Doorway
of treioiled arches with a shaft, having a niche, in
whicli is a figure of the Virgin and the Child. Notice
the old oak door, covered with scrolled iron-work. The
rich stone Roodscreen, separating the choir from the
nave, is in 15 compartments, each containing a statue
of a king of England down to Henry VI. The choir is
of vast height and width, and Hawthorne said that its
pillars and arches are so perfect that "their beauty
throws a gleam around them." Its heiglit is 102 ft. ;
width, 99 ft. The stained glass in the clerestory/ is
partly of the 14th century, partly later ; as in the choir
and in the presbytery. The great E. Win.dovj is the
largest in England that retains its original glazing.
It was erected in 1405-8, and forms a complete epitome
of the Bible. The Crypt may be visited from either the
N. or the S. aisle. See first the Presfjtjtery and the
Ladij Chapel. The Vestry, Record Room, Treasury,
and Library (containing many MSS), may be seen if
desired. The Horn of Ulphus, laid on the altar by one
of the Lords of Yorkshire as a sign that he gave certain
lands to the Chiirch, is in the vestry. Hawthorne says
of this cathedral : "It seems to have come down from
above, bringing an awful majesty and sweetness with
it; and it is so light and aspiring, with all its vast
columns and pointed arches, that one would hardly
wonder if it should ascend back to heaven again by
its mere spirituality."
ENGLAND. , 101
Other Ohjects of Interest. — Within the grounds of
the Yorkshire Philosophical Society, on the Ouse (fee
Is.), is St. Clary's Abbey. After the dissolution, part
was changed into a royal palace. See ruins of St.
Leonardos Hospital, founded by Atlielstau, and rebuilt
by Stephen ; and, beyond the Hos])ital, the Midtangular
Totoer, Roman below and mediaeval above. Here are
many stone coffins from the Roman cemetery. Near
this is 8t. Olaoe's Ch., in the graveyard of which Etty
the painter lies buried. Near the river is the Museum
of Antiquities, with very interesting collections. The
Museum of the Philosop/ncat Society cowtixm^ a valuable
geological exhibit. — The Castle, now a prison, is a
massive edifice in which occurred many events in the
early history of York, It was here that the massacre of
the Jews by a body of nobles and citizens, indignant
at the favorS shown to the Hebrews by Henry II., took
place in the reign of Richard I, Over the gateway is
a small Early English chapel. — All Saints' Ch., in North-
St., is of great age, and contains Roman masonry and
rich strained glass. See Hobj Trinity// Ch., Kings Court,
St. Crux Pavement, where the Earl of Northumberland,
beheaded in 1572, is buried. St. Helen Stonegate, is
dedicated to the mother of Constantine, See also
St. Laiorence, outside Walmgate Bar; St. Mary the
Younger, Bishop Hill; and St. MichaeVs, Spurrier
Gate, At the latter the ringing of the curfew bell is
still kept up. The principal public buildings are : The
Mansion House ; the Guildhall, with nave and aisles
separated by oak pillaro, and rich stained windows ;
Merchants' Hall, in Fossgate ; and St. William's Col-
lege, founded in 1460 Hawthorne admired York's
**old chs., gnawed like a bone by the tooth of Time.*^
Excursions from York. — To Scarborough {Croun
102 WHIT BY.-HULL— LEEDS.
Hotel; Grand; Alexandra; Prince of Wales; Royal;
jPavilion): time, 1^2 hours; fare, 5s. 7d., 4s. 8(1.,
■3s. 5-^d. This is a fashionable seashore resort. On a
promontory are ruins of an ancient Norman castle.
The Spa, the Promenade (6d.), the Aquarium, and
■Oliver'' s Mount (superb view), are reached by the Cliff
Bridge. View from the Castle Rock yery fine. Near
the castle is the venerable Gli. of St. Mary. (Fares
from London, 35s., 26s. lid., 19s. 6d.)— To Whitby
{Royal Hotel; Croum; Angel), 56iM. ; fares, 7s. 6d.,
■6s. 3d., 4s. 8d. Whitby is a summer resort, with
superb sea,-views. Museum and library on the W.
pier. Many shops for the sale of jet. Charming
drives to Rohin Hood's Bay, Mulgrave Castle, and
.along the Esk dales. Scott's Mar7nion has made
this region classic. Ca]5t. Cook's circumnavigating
ships were built at Whitby. Here are the venerable
Tuins of Wliithy Ahhey, where Hilda ruled, 658-80,
and Caedmon paraphrased the Bible in Saxon verse.
— To Beverley (Beverley Arms), dating from the
•8th century. Beverley Minster merits close study,
with its superb Percy Shrine, rich tabernacle-work.
Lady Chapel, high towered fronts. St. Mary's Ch.
is splendid cruciform building, with many sculptures.
8 M. distant (fares from York, 5s. 7d., 4s. 8d., 3s. 5^d.)
is Hull {Royal Hotel; Victoria; Imperial), a town of
354,000 inhab., ranking as a seaport next to Loi^don
and Liverpool. See the Holy Trinity Cli.; the Town
Hall; the Wilherforce Column (72 ft.); St. Malay's
Ch.; the Trinity House, established 1369; the ancient
High- St.; the Merchants' Exchange; and the Royal
Institution. — To Leeds {Queen's Hotel; Metropole;
Great Northern Station), chief town in Yorkshire,
wath 420, 000 inh. It is 32 M. from York (fares, 3s. 6d. ,
3s. lid., 2s. l^d.) Coal and iron abound on all sides.
ENGLAND. 103
Reclus calls Leeds ' ' first in the world in the woollen
business," The public buildings are magnificent. The
Toivn Hall has a tower 225 ft, high, and 4 rich Cor-
inthian facades. The Royal Exchange, Mixed-Cloth
Hall, White-Cloth Hall (built in 1775), and t\\&_New
Infirmary are all on a generous plan. Near Leeds is
Kirlxstall Abbey, beautiful ruins of ch,, cloisters, and
chapter-house ; Temple Neivsam, rich in paintings ; and
Weetwood, noted for idyllic scenery. From Leeds it
is 8 M. (time, ihr, ; fares, Is. 2d,, Is,, 9d,) to Brad-
ford (Midlatid; Alexandra), world-famous for its
woollens and worsted yarns. The town (280,000 inh,)
is prettily situated in a narrow vale. The Town Hall,
of mediaeval design, was erected in 1873, and has a
campanile, and a set of chimes, said to be superior to
those of Bruges, in Belgium. Saltaire, the model
town built by Sir Titus Salt, is 4 M, distant. The
factory covers 12 acres, and is 6 stories high. Ely.
hence (7-8 M,) to Keighley Junction, whence a branch
line conducts (4 M.) to Haworth {Blach Bull Inn).
The village has been much altered since the time of the
Brontes. The parsonage, where lived from 1820 to
1860 the father of the marvellous girls who wrote
Shirley, Jane Eyre, etc., has been much changed. All
the Bronte family, except Anne, are buried at Haworth.
There is a tablet to their memory in the ch, ; Char-
lotte's signature may be seen on the register. Many
Americans make pilgrimages to this rude moorland
country, hallowed by the manifestations of genius.
rianchester, Lincoln, Derby, etc.
We recommend the tourist to return to Leeds, and
go thence to Manchester, 200 trains pass daily be-
tween these two towns (42-|- M. ; fares, 7s., 5s, 3d.,
104 MANCHESTER.
3s. 9d.). On the way you traverse tlie Morley tunnei
(2 M. long) ; and Huddersfield {Queen's Hotel;
George), a handsome manufacturing town of 81,000
inhab. Near by is Kirklees Hall, on the site of the
nunnery where, if we may believe the old ballads, Robin
Hood was bled to death by a nun, and where the cele-
brated outlaw's grave is shown. Stanedge Tunnel (3 M.
long) comes next. Near Ashton-under-Lyne are 100
cotton-mills. Beyond Ashton the scenery is extremely
beautiful.
Manchester {Queen'' s; Midland; Or and; Victoria;
AlUoib ; G-rosvenor ; Uoyal ; Waterloo) and Salford
are connected by numerous bridges. The population
numbers about 800,000; and the two towns cover 9
square M. Rectus says : " Manchester was the Mancu-
niam of the Romans, and in the 14th century was already
known for its manufactures of stuffs, established by
riemish artisans after the rehgious wars. In our time
it is the 'cotton metropolis.'" The /S^^p Canal, 35^
M. long, 26ft. deep, made at a cost of £15,000,000,
has converted the town into a seaport and ensured
the continuance of its prosperity.
The Gothic Cathedral {\^1V) was restored in 1845-68,
The celebrated Neio Free Trade Hall ^idiixA^ in Peter-St.,
near the scene of the " Peterloo Massacre." The large
hall, in which Cobden and Bright have made many
famous speeches, can hold 7,000 persons. The New
Town Hall, the Royal Exchange, tiie Corn Exchange,
are imposing modern structures. In front of tlie Royal
Infirmary, in Piccadilly, are bronze statues of the Duke
of Wellington, Sir Robert Peel, Watt, and Dalton (the
chemist). Chetham. College has a fine library, Owen's
College, in Oxford-St., is an elegant structure. In the
Grammar School De Quincey received his early edu-
cation. See the Aissize Courts, good example of Gothic
architecture ; the vast County Jail; the Museum of
ENGLAND 105
JSfaturcd History; the Albert Memorial ; the John
liylancTs Library.
Manchester is reached from London by the Midland
Rly. (189 M.; 5 hrs. ; fares, 24s. 6d.. 20s., and 15s.
5^d.), which traverses a deUcioiis coiiatry. It is 41
M. (fares, 7s. 6d., 4s. 7d., 3s. 5d.) hence to Sheffield
{Midland Hotel; Victoria; Angel; King's Head), the
(leadquarters of the steel and cutlery trade of England
(with suburbs, 284,500 inhab.). Sheffield is shrouded
In smoke, so that one scarcely gets a glimpse of its
really fine situation on a chain of hills. St. Peter's
Ch., with the Shreicsbury Chapel; the Manor House,
restored by the Duke of Norfolk ; the Shreicsbury
Hospital; the statute of Elliott, the Corn-Law Rhymer;
and the GutUrs Hall, ure the piincipal sights. From
Sheffield it is 18 M. (fares, 2s. 9d., 2s. 2d., Is. 6d.) to
Doncaster {Angel; Reindeer; prices high race wk.),
a clean and well-built town, of Roman origin, on the
Don ; noted tor its line Ch. of ISL George, and tor the
famous St. Leger race, established in 1778. Near by
is the grand old Conishorough Castle, described in
loanhoe. It is 39 M. (fares, 5s. lid., 4s. 3d., 3s. l|d.)
hence to the ancient cathedral-town of
Lincoln {^Great Northern Railway Hotel ; Sara-
cen's Head ; Spread Eagle), which was at the time of
the Norman Conquest one of the chief British cities.
Under the Roman domination it had been one of the
best of their fortified camps. In 1141 King Stephen
was taken prisoner, after a battle at Lincoln by Robert,
Earl of Gloucester. There the Dauphin's party was
overthrown by the Earl of Pembroke, in Henry III.'s
minority. The city was stormed by the Parliamentary
army in 1644. The Cathedral stands on the summit
of a hill, whence it can be seen for many miles around.
It was founded in 1075, by Bishop Remigius of Ee-
pamp ; destroyed by an earthquake, about 1200 ; and
rebuilt by Bishop Piugh of Avalon, 1220-60, and dedi-
106 LINCOLN. — BOSTON.
cated to the Virgin. The* towers on the splendid W.
front command a view down the vale of the Witham,
as far as Boston. The length is 482 ft. ; width of W.
front, 174: ft. ; height of central tower, 260 ft. Note
the Norman font of Remigius; the Galilee Porch; the
choir, with wonderful wood-carving and stone-vaulting;
the Easter Sepulchre ; the delicately carved screens ;
the lady chapel. The big bell weighs 5| tons. See
the Cloisters, on the N. side, and tiieir Roman pave-
ment. In the Library are many Roman ;«itiquities.
Monuments to Catherine, wife of John of Gaunt, and
Joan, Countess of Westmoreland, and of many old
bishops and deans. Tlie greater part of the ch. is
Early English ; but part of the W. front is Norman.
The 'l3th century produced nothing finer than the rose-
window in the N. transept. In the S. transept there
is also a fine rose- window. See the sculptured angels
in the Freshytery, or Angel Choir. Near by is the
Bishop's Palace, founded by Bp. Hugh, which had
fallen into ruins but is now rebuilt ; the Castle, erected
by William tlie Conqueror (now tlie county courts) ;
the Neioport, a splendid Roman ruin, and fragments
of the Roman wall ; John of Gaunt's Palace / the
Guildhall J and the tine old titoiiebow gate.
Boston (^Peacock Hotel) is \-l\ hrs. S. E. of Lin.
cohi, and has 15,000 hihab., many antiquities, and
some commerce. It is 5 M. from the sea. It was
called Botolplis Town from the saint who founded a
nionastery here, in 654. St. Botolph's Ch., built 1309,
is the largest British parish ch. without aisles, and is
291 ft. long and 99 ft. wide, with a splendid tower^
800 ft. high, visible from afar over ihe sea and the fens,
32 M. by rly. from Boston is Pet^rljorourjli.
Go next from Lincoln to Nottingham. Just outside
of Lincoln, curious Ch. of Bracebridge All Saints. At
ENGLAND. 107
Newark {Clinton Arms; The Saracen's Hcaa) is St.
Mary Magdalene, a splendid old cli., with fine brasses,
stained windows, and a tall tower, sustaining- statues
of the Apostles; also a venerable . ruined Castle, built
in the reign of Stephen, and often besieged. Herein,
died King John. Belvoir Castle, the palace of the
Duke of Rutland, is near by. Newark was once fa-
mous for its inns, and the Saracen''s Head existed in
the time of Edward III. Sir Walter Scott makes
Jeannie Deans rest there on her way from Midlothian
to London. Just before reaching Nottingham, the
train traverses the grounds of Colwick Hall, where
Byron's "Mary Chaworth" lived.
]>J'ottingh.ani {Clarendon Hotel ; Flying Hor^e :
Victoria Station: Portland ; George) stands on a
rocky eminence N. of the river Trent. It is the chief
place for the making of lace and hosiery in Enuhuid
(230,000 inhab.). The old town is a labyrintii of n- •
row and crooked streets. The Market-Flaee is an open
area of 5| acres, with the Exchange at its E. end. See
the N. and S. Parades ; Mortimer's Hole, a strange ex-
cavation from the castle to the river; Standard Hill,
wdiere King Charles I. unfurled for the first time the
ro^^al flag in 1642; the Rock Holes: tlie Park; and
Swinton Hermitage. St. Mary's Ck. is a grand old
cruciform building. This Mas a Danish town, and
"William I. erected a castle here, which was often be-
sieged. The Castle, on the same lofty rock of red
sandstone, Avas destroyed by the mob in 1831. It has
been restored, and is occupied by the Midland Counties
Art Museum. Splendid view over the Vale of Trent, to
Belvoir Castle. The country round about is filled with
memorials of Byron. Newstead Abbey, which he
inherited when it was almost in ruins, is 11 M. N W.
Go by rail to Linby stat., 9| M., and walk (ii M-^ +o
108 DiilRBY.
the house, wliich is not usually shown. An Augus-
tinian abbey was founded here by Henry IT. in 1170,
and fell to Sir John Byron in 1540. The grounds and
forest are beautiful. The residence has been carefully
restored. The ruined ch., "a glorious remnant of the
Gothic pile," and the cloister, with a fountain in its
centre, are very fine ; the poet's mean bedroom is kept
as he lelt it. Many beautiful and art-enriched halls are
shown. On the lawn is the monument to Boatswain,
Byron's dog. In front of the abbey is the lake, so
often mentioned in the poenis.
Here you are on the border of Sherwood Forest,
with legends of Robin Hood at every turn. Robin
Hood's Hill and Fountain Dale are near Newstead Ab*
bey. 3 M. off is Annesley Old Hall, containing the
" antique oratory " mentioned in Byron's " The Dream."
Hucknall Ch., where Lord Byron, his mother, and his
only daughter are buried, is \ M. from Linby. lie-
turning to Nottingham, spend the night there, and
take early train (15f M. : Is. 9d., Is. 6d.) to
Derby {Midland Hotel, close to station; St. James;
Royal), and thence to Rowsley (fares, 2s. lid,,
Is. 9^d). Derby was the Uoman stat. Derventio, and
here Uichardson the novelist was born. The fine Derby
spar is found near by. There are rare old monuments
in the Cavendish chapel of All Saints' Ch. Derby is
the entrance to tliat deliglitful region known as The
Peak of Derbyshire. Those who do not wish to
make detours can reach Derby or Rowsley, from Liver-
pool and Manchester, by the JMidland Line. The Peak
is a picturesque district, containing "that beautiful
scenery of the millstone grit and mt. limestone for
which the county is so pre-eminent. This scenic in-
terest, however, does not arise so much from the ele-
vation of the hills as from their romantic grouping and
ENGLAND. 109
the bold and varied arrangement of the dales and cloughsj
which offer exquisite landscape pictures." Reach
Rowsley at 9 a.m., and (leaving your baggage — ex-
cept umbrella and waterproof — in the stat. cloak-room)
make a bargain with a driver, and go at once to Had-
don Hall, 1-| M. (1 person, 2s. 6d. ; 2-3 persons. Is.
each. Bargahi for the same driver to take vou both
to Haddon and Chatsworth. If lie waits, you must
make special terms). Eaddon Hall, on a hill E. of
the Wye, which is crossed by a pictiu-esque bridge, is
an ancient seat of the Dukes of Rutland. There hved
Sir George Yernon (1545), whose profuse hospitality
procured him the title of " King of the Peak ; " thence
fair Dorothy Yernon eloped to marry her lover. Sir
John Manners ; and there, in the State Bedchamber^
are the famous tapestries illustrating Jisop's Pables,
woven at the Gobelins in Paris. Yisitors are shown
the Chaplain*s Moom, the Chapel, the Banqueting -Hall,
the Dining-Room, with the inscription, " Drede God
and honor the Kyng," over the fireplace ; the I)rau-i?7g-
Room, the State and Earl's Bedchambers^ and Peverirs
Toioer. Small fee to servant.
Chats-worth (3 M. from Rowsley ; 4 M. from Bake-
well stat.) is the finest mansion in England. It is
a favorite residence of the Duke of Devonshire, and is
called the "Palace of the Peak." The old Hall was
used as a fortress in the Civil War, both by forces of
Xing and Parliament. The present S. front dates from
1687 ; the E. side, great hall, and staircase, from 1690 ;
the N. front, from 1704. See the Conservator?/, Great
Ball (67 X 20 ft.). Chapel, Grand Drawing-Room,
Libraries, Dining-Room (58 X 30 ft.), Sculpture Gal-
lery (103 X 30 ft.), Oratigery, Sketch Gallery (original
drawings by Angelo, Raphael, Diirer, Titian, ^tc).
State Apartments, Gallery of Paintitigs (Titian, Salvator
no MATLOCK BATH. — BAKE WELL.
Rosa, Tintoretto, Murillo, Holbein, etc.). State DroAV-
ing-Room. Two of the state rooms are called those of
Mary Queen of Scots, because she was long a prisoner
there. The Arboretum, Conservatory, and Gardens
(6d. to gardener) should be seen. The French Garden
comes first, then the Camellia and Orchid Houses ;
next a copper willow-tree ; then the vast Conservatory
(276 X 13B ft.)' See the Emperor Fountain, and go
out by the Italian garden. The Old Hunting Tower
and Queen Mary's Bower deserve notice. Chatsworth
is open daily (11-5 (Sat. 11-1). Queer old village of
Edensor {Chatsworth Hotel, good) outside Park
gates. In the church is the tomb of Lord Frederick
Cavendish, assassinated in Dublin in 1882.
Returning to Rowsley, lunch at the Feacoch Inn,
an old hostelry, with a pretty garden. (Write or
telegraph ahead for rooms.) The famous Matlock
Bath {New Bath Hotel) is in the romantic Matlock
Dale, on the Derwent. Said Hawthorne: "I have
never seen anywhere else such exquisite scenery."
Rocky and foliage-clad crags rise 3u0 ft. above the ■
river, and there are many fine grottos in them.
Masson hill, 1,000 ft. high, commands a grand view
down the Derwent defiles. Branch line from Matlock
to Buxton (/Si^. Anne's Hotel; Palace; Old Hall), 1
hr. from Manchester. Fine springs here, in the Wye
valley, efficient in curing rheumatism and gout, 12
acres in public gardens. — Bakewell {Rutland Arms
Inn) has a fine ch., with Vernon and Manners
monuments. The rural beauty of this section is not
surpassed in England. Hardivich Hall and Bolsover
Castle, both in Derbyshire, are superb mansions,
filled ,with art-treasures. The former may be reached
from Clay-Cross stat., between Derby and Sheffield;
the latter from Langwith. Burton - on - Trent
is the site of vast ale breweries. We now suggest
that you go from the Derbyshire district to
ENGLAND 111
Birmingham {Queen's Hoiel, at New St. station;
Plough & JIarroiv; Cohdeii). Fares from Manchester
to Birmingham, 12s. 6cl., 9s. 3d., 6s. ll|d.; from
Rowsley, 8s. 7d., 5s. 3^d. You can leave Nottingham
early, go to Rowsley, Haddon Hall, Chatsworth, and
Buxton, and get to Birmingham at night, Birming»
ham is the birthplace of Priestley, a centre of liberal
thought, and a great manufacturing place (435,000
inhab.). Camden said of old " Bremicham " (Brum-
magem ?), that ** it echoed with the noise of anvils,
for tliere were a great many smiths." Almost
everything that can be made of metal is fabricated
at Birmingham. Visit the Elkington's Electro-Dilate
Works ; Gillott's Steel Pen Works ; the Mint ; the
gun-works ; the ToiDn Hall, in which are held the
renowned triennial musical festivals. NeiD Corpora-
tion Offices ; Free Library ; Neio Post Office; 3Iar-
ket Hall ; Exchange; Birmingham and Midland In-
stitute: King Edward VI.' s Free Grammar School;
General Hospital; St. Martin's Ch.; Aston Hall, in
the handsome Aston Park. The Botanical Gardens
(Is.; on Mon., Id.) are worth notice.
Excursions may be made to (13 M.) Wolver-
hampton {Star and Garter ; Talhot),the metropo-
lis of the Black Conntry, which has manufacturing
trade in tin and iron goods (85,000 inhab.). Things
to see : St. Peter's Ch.; Queen s-Square, with eques-
trian statue of Prince Albert; Lilrrary ; Theatre;
Orphan Asylum. — To (29 M ) Stafiford {Northicest-
em Hotel ; Swan), a well-built modern town.
Izaak Walton was a native of this place. See
old timber-houses, especially the JSfoah's Ark, in
Crabbery-St. ; St. Mary's and St. Chad's CJis.; the
Bury Ring ; Stafford Castle, ^ M. out. Leather
is the chief industry. — To Kidderminster, fa-
mous for the manufacture of carpets. The old ch.
is a fine Gothic monument. A walk through
112 WORCESTER.-COYENTRY.
the ch.-yard commands views of the town and river
Stour. In the vicinity are the Clent Hills. Richard
Baxter preached here 25 years. — To Worcester
{Star Hotel; Crown), nearly in the centre of England,
and finely situated on an ascent from the Severn. The
Foregate-St. is very handsome. The Cathedral is an
elegant structure, built in 1024-1374, 394 ft. long,
78 wide, 162 high. Beautifully decorated in the lady
chapel, where the roof is covered with figures painted
in medallions. The fine stone pulpit in the choir is
restored. See the enamelled metal cross above the
choir-screen. Among the monuments is King John's,
one of the most ancient in England ; statues of Bishops
Wulstan, "Oswald and Hough; tomb of Prince Arthur,
son of Henry V., a fine Gothic bit. The cloisters
where the monks once resided are interesting. The
handsome decagonal chapter-house is now used as a
national school. Other public buildings: Episcopal
Palace, close by the Severn; the Commandery;
Edgar'' 8 Tower; the Guildhall, with royal statues;
and the Hopmarhet, the most important in England.
Coventry, Kenil worth, Warwick,
Stratford=on=Avon.
It is a relief to get out of the region of factories
into the delightful quiet of old Coventry {Craven
Arms; King's Head Hotel; Queen's Hotel). Distance
from Birmingham, 18f M. ; fares, 3s. 6d., 2s. 6d., Is
7id. Coventry was formerly the third city in the
kingdom. Everyone knows the story of Lady Gro-
diva. An effigy, called Peeping Tom, is still exhibited
at the corner of Hertf ord-St. In Richard II. 's time
the city was defended by a wall, with 26 towers and
12 gates, some of which remain; but the greater
ENGLAND. 113
part of them were destroyed by Charles II. Coven-
try retains much of its ancient picturesque aspect, with
narrow streets, fine old gables, and half-timber liouses,
and several hrs. can be profitably spent there. The
" three tall spires " of which Tennyson speaks are those
of St. Michael's, Trinity, and Christ Clis. SL Michael's,
one of the finest Gothic structures in England, w^as
founded about 1133. The charming spire, 303 ft. high,
was built 1373-95. The ch. was rebuilt in 1434, and
is 400 ft. long. "Most magnificent, — so old, yet
enduring ; so huge, so rich," Hawthorne found it.
Triniti/ Ch. is close to St. Michael's, and was once
a fine specimen oi Gothic. Dugdale finds a mention
of its annexation to the Benedictine Priory in 1260.
Chrisi Ch. was founded by the begging ^reyfriars.
The spire is the only remaining part of the old ch. ;
St. John's Ch., at the N. W. end of the city, Is a
fine old building, with a massive tower. St. MaTy'%
Hall is a beaiitifnl edifice near St. Michael's. It
1 originally belonged to St. Catherine's Guild, and
; was built about the middle of the 14th century,
I The Free School; Grey friars or Ford Hospital;
' the Workhouse, built out of the remains of the
IVhitefriars Monastery (founded in 1342) ; and
'the remnants of the gates, are other objects of in- '
terest. A few fragments of the Benedictine Priory,
jfounded in 1043, are left. About 4 M. out is Stone-
jleigh Abbey, a place of great antiquity, held before
ithe Conquest by King Edward. Henry II. granted it
|to a body of Cistercian monks. The site is a lovely
jljone, the Avon bathing two sides of the verdant slopes
on which the old monastic house was located. There
is a fine park in front ; and a road, crossing the Avon
iby an elegant stone bridge, conducts to the gateway.
The building b clothed with ivy, and its ponderous*
114 KENILWORTH.
oaken gates are very curious. Within the state apart-
ments are many paintings by Rembrandt, Van Dyck,
Holbein, Teniers, etc.
For those who have time, nothing can be more de-
lightful than a leisurely tour on foot from Coventry
to Kenilworth, Warwick, and Stratford-on-Avon ;
going out from this region of fine old castles, lovely
valleys, and beautiful fields, by Riigby, and thence
either straight down to London, or to Peterboro', and
Ely, making a detour to Cambridge and Oxford. For
those who desire to see Kenilworth, Warwick and
Stratford, and get away to London at night, there will
be no other course than to take a carriage at Coventry,
Leamington, Warwick, or Stratford. A beautiful trip
is as follows: Go from Coventry (5 M.), by a road
shaded all the way by fine elms and sycamores, to
Kenilworth (King^s Arms ; Abbey ; Castle), where
chief attraction is Kenilworth Castle, standing on an
eminence to the W. The first buildings, in a deep hol-
low overgrown by underbrush, are the base and side
walls of the Gallery Tower, the S. E. end of the Tilt
Yard, and originally the chief entrance to the Castle.
Enter by a gate in the N. wall (ti'ifiing fee), and first
arrive at Leicester' s Gatehouse, a square building of
four stories, flanked at each angle with an octagonal
tower, and embattled. This building is not entered
by visitors, as it is a private residence. Passing
on, you come directly in front of the main build-
ings; and looking W. have the inner court in full
view. The E. side of the square was composed
of buildings erected by King Henry VIII. and Sir
Robert Dudley, but is now wholly destroyed. On
the r. is CcBsafs Tower, a vast keep of immense
strength, with walls many feet thick. Beyond is the
building called Mervyn's Tower, which all readers of
Scott's novel of Kenilworth will visit. The chambers
ENGLAND. 115
sre all arcfied with stone, and it is supposed that they
served as prisons in the time of Henry II. From the
top may be seen on the r. the remains of the Swan
Tower, which formed the N. W. angle of the outer
walls built in Henry III.'s time. Adjoining Mervyn
Tower, on the S., is the great Banqueting -Rail, built by
John of Gaunt. The floor was supported on a stone
vaulting, carried on parallel rows of pillars, the remains
of which may be seen. Notice the great height of the
windows, which were filled with tracery, and transomed.
Beyond the Banqueting-Hall are the White Hall, the
Presence Chamber, and the Privy Chamber; and still
S. are the remains of Leicester's buildings, of great
height and remarkable architectural beauty. The cas-
tle was founded by Geoffroy de Clinton, Chamber-
lain to Henry I. ; to pass presently to the crown of
Henry III. It was granted to Simon de Montfort,
and became the resort for the insurgent nobles. After
Leicester's defeat and death, his eklest son sheltered
himself in this fortress ; and there was a famous siege, in
which the castle held out for 6 months. In Edward I.'s
time a magnificent tournament occurred here. Edward
II. lay a prisoner in the castle at one time ; and the
visits of Elizabeth to Kenilworth were in 1566, 1568,
and 1575. Tlie last was immortalized by Scott.
Erom Kenilworth by the highway to Warwick is
about 5 M., by Leek Wool ton, a village buil^. on a rocky
eminence and quite picturesque. 1 M. beyond is
Blacklow Hill, where, from an opening in the trees,
is seen the monument erected to mark the spot on
which Piers Gaveston. Earl ot' Cornwall, was be-
headed. 1^ M. from Warwick, is Gufs Cliff, the
handsome country-seat of Lord Percy, and a place of
religious retirement more than 4 centuries previous to
the time of Earl Guy Warwick, who is supposed at this
116 WARWICK.
place to have finished his life of adventure, as a her.
mit. Leland, in Henry YIII.'s time, calls this "the
abode of pleasure, a place meet for the Muses." Cam-
den, Dugdale, and Fuller are all equally eutlmsiastic in
its praise. Guif s CciDe and Gti^s Well are s lio wr?.
Warwick ( Warwick Ai^ms ; Dale Temjperance :
these houses, though comfortable, are small and apt to
be crowded ; it is best to telegraph for rooms in ad-
vanced is near the centre of beautiful Warwickshire,
on a rocky hill, past which the Avon flows. The town
is of Saxon origin, and was formerly surrounded with
strong walls, of Avhich there are now but few rem-
nants. The old gates are interesting ; and the Hospital,
founded by the Earl of Leicester, is one of the finest
specimens of half-timber buildings. It stands at ths
W. end of High-St., of which its chapel, v/hich pos-
sesses a very beautiful window, forms a striking orna-
ment. Under the chapel is a curious vaulted passage
of great antiquity, through which an entrance into the
town once passed. A tower, built by Tliomas de Beau-
champ, in the time of Richard II., rises above the
chapel. This formed the W. gateway of the fortifi-
cations. It has a richly groined ceiling. In this hos-
pital a limited number of brothers are allowed. They
have to wear a livery when abroad, consisting of a fine
blue broadcloth gown, with a silver badge of a bear and
ragged staff, Lord Leicester's device, St. Mary's is the
principal ch. in Warwick. It was founded prior to the
Conquest ; and contains many curious monuments, and
Beauchamp Chapel, v.^hich is considered the most splen-
did in England, after that of Henry VII.
"Warwick Castle, one of the noblest residences in
England, is S. E. of the town, on a high rock which
overlooks the Avon. Before entering the castle, walk
down to the stone, bridge, from which there is a fine
ENGLAND. 117
view of the castle. The moonliglit view is striking.
Enter the castle bj a huge gate, and walk up a winding
way, bordered by moss-grown rock, to the outer court,
formerly a vineyard, renowned for its grapes in the time
of Henry lY. On the r. is Guys Tower, 128 ft. high,
30 ft. in diameter, and with walls 10 ft. thick ; and on
the 1. the venerable Casars Tower, coeval with the
Norman Conquest. This is connected with Guy's
Tower by an embattled wall, in the centre of which is
the great arched gateway, flanked by towers and suc-
ceeded by a second, whose towers and battlements rise
above those of the first. After passing the double
gateway you are in the inner court, and see the great
castle directly in front of you. When the family is
absent (and it generally is), the interior is shown. The
rooms shown are the Great Hall, from which a view is
obtained through the state rooms, a straight line of 333
ft., terminated at the W. end by a window. Prom this
great hall may also be seen, at the end of the Chapel
Passage, Van Dyck's celebrated painting of Charles I.
You pass through the Red Drawing -Room ; the Cedar
Dratoing-Room, containing a bust by Hiram Powers,
and a portrait of Charles I. by Van Dyck ; and next
enter the Gilt Drawing-room, wliicli contains many
old paintings. The bed and furniture in the State
Bedroom belonged to Queen Anne. The tapestry in
this room is very fine. The Boudoir is a veritable
museum \ and the effect of the immense height, and
the tree-tops, which come up to the very windows,
is curious. Here are pictures bj^ Holbein, Rubens,
Vandyke, etc. From thence pass through the Arm-
ory Passage to a billiard-room, rich witli portraits ;
a Com2M6s-Eoom, the Chapel, and the Library, in
which is the famous Kenilworth buffet, made of oak
grown on the Kenilworth estate. In the Breakfast
118 WARWICK CASTLE.
Rooin is a fine collection of paintings by Canaletto, w\\.Q
resided for some time at the castle. (Small fee to ser«
vaut who shows the apartments : for one person, 6d.
or Is.; for a party of 4, 2s.) Csesar's Tower, neaily
150ft. high, has a dark and dismal dungeon beneath it,
on the Avails of which are scrawls made by prisoners.
Guy's To"wer, the top of which is reached by a flight
of 133 steps, commands a noble view of Coventry,
Kenilworth, Guy's Cliff, Leamington, and the neigh-
borliood. The gardens are very fine, and on the hill of
the tower are some superb cedars of Lebanon. In the
Porter's Lodge are relics of the hero Guy, Hawthorne
calls this " one's very idea of an old castle." From
Warwick to Leamington is 2 M. A rly. runs from Lea-
mington through Warwick to Stratford. (From War-
wick to Stratford, 13^ M.) The most desirable route,
however, is by highway, 8 M. from Warwick, past
•Charlcote, the country-seat of the Lucys, to Stratford.
Tills is a delightful excursion, and we recommend those
who can to make it on foot, that they may linger among
the beautiful sylvan scenery, and approach Stratford
through the pleasant meadows. Charlcote House
is off the route to Stratford, but the drivers usually
take you close to it. It is a handsome mansion in th«
midst of a beautiful park, well stocked with deer,
the sight of which will call to mind the youthful ad-
venture of Shakespeare as a poacher, and the prose-
cution which decided him to render Sir Thomas Lucy
immortal as Justice Shallov/. From Charlcote you
pass through numerous fine bits of woodland country,
and, crossing the Avon Bridge, enter
Stratford-on-Avon {Sliahespeare; Golden Lion;
Red Horse; Falcon), quiet old-fashioned place, with
wide, well-kept streets and many handsome mansions.
The Town Mall was dedicated to the memory of the
ENGLAND. 1 1 9
poet. 'Here is a statue of Shakespeare presented by
Garrick. On the pedestal see lineo from Hamlet :
" Take him for all in all, we shall not loolc upon his
like again." Very interesting is the Shakespeare
Memorial Building a?id Theatre, which we advise you
to visit first on entering the town. This memorial
structure, in a charming situation by the Avon, was
the outgrowth of the feeling that the poet should
have a suitable monument in his native town.
From the Memorial go to Holi/ Trinity Ch., a cruci-
form edifice, consisting of a nave with aisles, a transept
and chancel, and a square battlemented tower, in a
lovely situation by the Avon, surrounded by a ch.-yard
full of tombstones, covered with quaint inscriptions.
[f the doors are not open, the driver will go for the
ieys. The ch. contains interesting monuments and
some very quaint wood-carvings. The grave of Shake-
speare rS in the floor of the chancel, covered by a plain
flagstone. On the chancel-wall, near the grave, is an or-
namental arch with a bust of Shakespeare, in :. thought-
ful attitude. From this burial-place of genius it is but a
short distance to the village of Shottery, where stands,
embosomed in foliage, the pretty cottage once the resi-
dence of Anne Hathaway. In this humble abode
Shakespeare courted his wife. Mrs. Baker, a Lneal
descendant of the Hathaways, shows the quaint inte-
rior ; the oaken seat on which Shakespeare and Anne
(vere wont to sit ; many bits of venerable furniture ;
And, up-stairs, a vast bed, on which many a Hathaway
flas drawn the last breath of life. She also shows a
visitors' book, wliich contains the names of a great num-
ber of eminent Englishmen and Americans (small fee^.
Return to Stratford, and in Henley-St. you will find the
Shakespeare House. This is a fine old half-timber
building, iti >fiiich the poet was born (1564), and where
120 STRATFORD-ON-AVON.
his family long lived. It consists of 3 apartments on
the ground floor, one of which is a museum; of the
room in which Shakespeare was born, iip-stairs; and
smaller rooms, in one of which is the celebrated Strat-
iofd portrait of the bard, unlike the commonly received
•pictures, but believed by many people to be more au-
thentic. It was painted over in Puritan times to escape
destruction. The room in which the poet was born
is in its original state, except that visitors of every
nation and every rank have scribbled their names on
the walls and windows. The autographs of Byron,
Scott, Washington Irving, George IV., the Prince of
Orange, the Duke of Wellington, Tom Moore, Charles
Dickens, etc., are pointed out. The house is now the
property of the nation, having been purchased in 1847
by public subscription. In the museum are early edi-
tions of Shakespeare's plays; the deed made in 1596,
showing that John Shakespeare, the father of the poet,
resided in this house ; a letter from Mr. Richard Quyney
to Shakespeare in 1598, requesting a loan of £30, the
only letter known to be in existence, addressed to the
poet ; Shakespeare's signet ring, with the initials W. S.
upon it; an old desk, said to have been his, and re-
moved from the Grammar School; the Shakespeare
jug, from which Garrick drank at the Jubilee in 1769 ;
and a sword, whicli once belonged to Shakespeare.
Autograph sentiments, written by Washington Irving,
by Lucien Bonaparte, and others, are also to be seen..
Visitors register their names. The old visitors' books
are most curious. The first one, beginning in 1812,
may be seen at Mrs. James's, near the Town Hall, in
High-St. (Admission to Shakespeare's birthplace, 6d.
House open daily, 9-7.) The pilgrim should now come
to New Place, where Shakespeare lived during his
prosperous latter years, and where lie died C1616). It
ENGLAND. 121
Is to-day merely a well-kept lawn. The house is
gone. Opposite is the Guild Chapel, founded in 1269;
chancel rebuilt about 1450. In the second story of
the adjacent Guild Hall is the Grammar School,
where Shakespeare was one of the pupils. Visit one
or both of the celebrated inns, the Red Horse and
the Shakespeare; the former, where you can lunch
before returning to Warwick, is a plain, unromantic-
looking house, rendered interesting by the genius of
Washington Irving. There Americans are shown the
room where he stayed; a chair, with his name en-
graved on a brass plate ; the poker with which he
poked the fire, etc.
From Warwick go by rly. (2M.) to Leamington
{Manor House Hotel), a famous watering-place, with
sulphuretted saline springs. The most important
building is the Hoyal Pump Room and Baths.
You may go directly from Warwick to London
(fares, 15s. 6d., lls.lOd., 8s. 6d.; time, 3 hrs. ; distance,
97f M.). Oxford may be visited on the way; but we
recommend you to go to Rugby, Peterborough, Ely,
Cambridge, and ISTorthampton ; then from Bedford to
Oxford and London. You will pass through
Rugby {Royal George Hotel; Eagle; Three Horse-
shoes), Dickens's Mughg Junction, famous by its
Grammar School, founded in 1567. Here the cele-
brated Dr. Arnold was head master ; and the readers
of Tom Broivn will perhaps wish to visit the school.
Close by is Castle Mount, where a stronghold stood
in the time of King Stephen. 1^ M. out is Bilton
Hall, where Addison lived. In the garden is Ad-
dison's favorite walk. After leaving Rugby you
soon reach
Peterborough {Great Northern; Grand; Angel;
Bull) anciently called Medeshamstede, and deriving
its origin from a noted Benedictine Abbey, estab-
lished in 655, shortly after the Saxons had become
122 PETERBOROUGH.
Christianized. The Danes destroyed this abbey (807^,
and it was restored in 966. Then the town was
named after the saint to whom it was dedicated. The
abbey, when Henry VIII. dissolved the religious
bodies, was one of the most magnificent in the king-
dom, and was selected as the see of one of the new
bishoprics. The monastic buildings suffered cruelly
during the civil wars; and the cathedral itself was
sadly defaced. It is said that Henry VIII. spared
Peterborough Abbey because Catherine of Aragon lay
buried within its enclosure. It is a noble Norman
structure, 471 ft. long and 180 ft. wide. Mary,
Queen of Scots, once reposed here. The cloisters are
in excellent preservation. At the W. end of the
cathedral is a line court, on the S. side of which a
range of the old monastic structures is still erect.
The W. front (built 1350), 3 vast open arches, has
been called "the grandest portico in Europe." See
the noble old oaken roof, the carved oaken screen, the
Lady Chapel, the venerable font. Hawthorne said:
*' Of all the lovely closes that I ever beheld, that of
Peterborough Cathedral is the most delightful, — so
quiet, so solemnly and nobly cheerful." Most of the
beautiful glass and all the records in the cathedral
were destroyed by Cromwell's soldiers. The E. end
was burned in 1438. In the Ch. of St. John the Bap-
tist there are some exquisite figures by Elaxman.
Peterborough has a large trade in corn, coal, etc. 2
M. out is Milton Park, the seat of Earl Eitzwilliam.
9 M. distant is Castor, with a perfectly preserved
Roman fortress. 21 M. away is Fotheringhay, with
a splendid ruined ch., and the ruins of the old Plan-
tagenet castle in which Mary, Queen of Scots, was
put to death. Erom Peterborough it is 30 M. (fares,
6s. 3d., 5s., 2s. 5|d.) to
ENGLAND. 123
Ely (Lamh Inn; Bell). The Isle of Ely is a tract
of high land, amid the fens; and here a 'monastery
was founded by St. Etheldreda (673). A charter was
granted by Edg-ar, confirmed by Canute, Edward the
Confessor and the Pope. The isle made an excellent
defence against William the Conqueror. The cathe-
dral was founded about 1082. The stalls are remark-
able specimens of wood-carving. The Galilee is a
beautiful porch. The Central Octagon is a superb
Grothic d,ome, with exquisite details. Note the new
oak screen, with brass gates ; the rich marble carvings
in the Choir; the Stalls; Bishop Alcock's Chapel;
Prior Crandene's Cliapel; and the ancient .S^'sAo^'s:
Palace. There is a Parle S. of the Cathedral. The
Lady Chapel was begun in the reign of Edward II.,
and is considered one of the most perfect buildings
of its kind, Ely Cathedral is the longest Gothic
cathedral (but one) in Europe (537 ft.). The W,
tower is 266 ft. high. For technical description see
King's Hand-Booh of English Cathedrals, which, is
an excellent companion in these ancient towns.
From Ely proceed to
Cambridge {University Arms; Red Lion; Bull;
Hoop; Sirdar; Blue Boar), 56 T^. from London^
and on the Cam, a narrow stream that rambles all over
the town. Tradition gives 630 as the date of the
foundation of the University; but the oldest college^
Peterhouse or St. Peter's, can only be referred to 1257,
The public buildings are the Shire Hall, Town Hall,
University halls and library, and Fitzwilliam Museum.
There are 1 7 colleges, in ferior in a rchitectural beauty
to those of Oxford, though their associations are quite
as interesting. Trinity was founded by Henry VIII.
in 1546, and has 3 fine quadrangles; a splendid hall
in the Tudor style; gardens; and an important library,
withbusts of Newton and Bacon. Thorwaldsen's statue
124 CAMBRIDGE.
of Byron, Newton's telescope, some of John Miitou-s
MSS., etc. Christ's College, founded in 1442, was
Milton's college. In the gardens is Milton s Mulberry^
Tree. The quadrangle was rebuilt by^Jnigo Jones.
Jesus College (1496) and Chapel are very fine build-
ings, on the site of a Benedictine nunnery. Caius
(pronounced Kees) was founded in 1384, and enlarged
in 1557 by Dr. Caius, physician to Queen Mary. Re-
built lately, it is now one of the best. Corpus
Christ! (1351) contains curious portraits^ especially
those of Sir Thomas More, Wolsey, Erasmus, and
Foxe, the author of the Book of Martyrs. King's
College (1441), founded by Henry VI., is the finest
t)uilding in the University. The chapel is the finest
specimen of perpendicular Gothic existing. The
roof, unsupported by pillars, contains 12 divisions of
exquisite lace-work tracery in stone. The 24 stained-
glass windows, each 50 ft. high, are beautiful. The
music is exceptionally fine. The visitor should go to
the Sunday service, St. John's, founded by Mar-
'garet, the mother of Henry VII., in 1511, has 4 quad-
rangles, a beautiful chapel, and a rare old library. See
also Emmanuel, 1584 (whose graduates founded New
England); St. Catherhie's (1475); Clare (1326);
Downing (1807) ; Pembroke (1347) ; Sidney Sussex
(1596); Magdalene (1519) ; Trimtu Hall (1347).
The most striking part of Cambridge is "the Backs,"
where the college gardens slope down to the river,
overhung by beautiful trees and crossed by handsome
bridges. The site of Cambridge is flat, and forms part
of the great Fen Level.
• Not far from Cambridge is Newmarket, the fa-
mous turf resort, which became popular in the days of
James I., who had a hunting-seat here. Near by is
Bury St. Edmunds, where an abbey (whose noble
ENGLAND. 125
ruins remain) was founded by Canute to commemorate
the martyrdom of Edmond. We proceed next to
Bedford {Swan; Embankment; George; Red Lion)^
once the tome of John Bunyan. His chair, in
Bunyan Meeting, Mill-St., may still be seen ; and
Bedford Jail, where he wrote a portion of The
Pilgrim's Progress, still exists. Bun^^^an's birthplace
was Elstoio, 1 M. from Bedford ; and there his cot-
tage and forge are shown. Also a noble abbey-ch.
See the fine statue of Bunyan, preaching, and hold-
ing the Bible. This stands on St. Peters Green.
Scenes from Tlie Pilgrim's Progress on pedestal. The
Duke of Bedford gave this statue to the town. Th&
philanthropist Howard was born at Cardington, 2 M.
distant. The Sioan Inn occupies the site of the old
castle, destroyed in the reign of Henry III. From
Bedford it is but a very short journey to
Northampton {Angel Hotel; George; PlougTi),
the seat of the boot and shoe manufacture (70,000
inliab.). 20 Parliaments were held here between the
the 12th and 14tli centuries ; and on one occasion the
University was ti-ansferred hither from Oxford. The
Castle, with the exception of one tower, was demol-
ished in 1662. The old Hospital, founded in honor of
Thomas a Becket, is near the S. gate. Interesting
sights, — St. Sepulchre Ch., built by the Knights Tem-
plar, on the plan of Christ's Sepulchre at Jerusalem ;
the Town Hall; the Shire Hall. Statue by Chantrey
of Spencer Perceval in All Saints' Ch. Queen Eleanor's
Cross is 1 M. S. Near this relic Henry VI. was de-
feated by Warwick in 1460, Althor'p Park, seat of
Earl Spencer, with famous hbrary and picture-gallery,
7 M. out. Go by rail from Bedford via Bletchley to'
Oxford {Randolph Hotel, the most modern, with res-
taurant; Clarendon; Mitre ^nA. Roebuck, in the centrf
126 OXFOED.
of tlie town, first-class ; King's Arms Hotel ; Golden
Cross Hotel). The modern town contains the County
jail, near the old tower of Oxford Castle ; the Town
Hall J and the Martyrs' Memorial, a Gothic monu-
ment in St. Giles, near the spot where Cranmer,
Ridley, and Latimer were burnt at the stake, in
1555-6. Oxford as a seat of learning dates from the
time of Alfred the Great, or even eadier. The origi-
nal town was demolished by the Danes, The tradi-
tions of modern Oxford go back to the Conquest,
after which the monasteries founded there obtained
great fame for their learning. The town-plan is a
cross, 4 broad streets converging from the cardinal
points. The central point is called Corfax, a cor-
ruption of Quatre wies. The curve of High-St,,
with its splendid architectural monuments, makes it
one of the finest streets in Europe.
Public buildings to be visited : The Schools; Aslimo-
lean Museum, containing the Arundel 3Ia7'bles. Bod-
lean Library, with its interesting portraits ; Bad-
cliffe Observatory ; Taylor Institution; Unimrsity
Galleries (open daily, 1.2-4), containing important
drawings by Michael Angelo and Raphael ; Univer-
sity Museum, a modern Gothic building in the Park.
The laboratories are worthy of notice (open daily,
after 2 r. m,). See the beautiful Ch. of St. Mary/
University College was founded, according to
tradition, in 872, by Alfred the Great , but it dates
historically from 1280. Imposing high-towered gate-
ways, new library, etc. Balliol was founded by
John Balliol, and Devorgilla, his wife (parents of
John Balliol, King of Scotland), in 1268. The build-
ing has been restored, and new halls built, ^ Merton
(1264), handsome tower and curious old architecture.
Two quadrangles, and a large chapel. Exeter
(1314)5 fiiie modern spire to the chapel (a copy of La
ENGLAND. 127
r^ainte Chapelle, at Paris. Very large buildings.
Noted timber roof in hall. Oriel (1326), wliei-e at
one time studied Arnold, Keble, Newman, Pusey,
and Wilberforce. -Queen's (1431), with hall de-
signed by Wren, New College (1380), one of the
finest architecturally, with beautiful cloisters ; fine
chapel and splendid choir. Lincoln (1427), John
Wesley's college. -All Souls' (1437), fine buildings
in two quadrangles. Magnificent chapel, with rere-
dos. Spacious hall. Magdalen (pronounce Maud-
len), founded in 1457, with a beautiful campanile,
•cloisters, gardens, Addison's walk along the Clier-
ivell. Splendid chapel (famous choral service, 5 p.m.
during term). Erasenose (1512), Bishop Heber's
college. Corpus Christi (1516), almost unchanged
for 300 years. Christ Church, founded by Car-
dinal Wolsey (1525). Pagade 400 ft. long. Attached
to this foundation is the Gailiedral of Glirut Gh.
(once the ch. of St. Frideswide's Priory). The great
college tower contains Great Tom, which weighs
17,000 lbs. Fine library and pictures. Immense
quadrangle. Through the new buildings pass into
die beautiful Christ- Church meadows (50 acres on
the rivers Isis and Cherwell). Trinity (1554), beau-
tiful gardens and walks, with classical tower and
chapel. St, John's (1555), magnificent late Gothic
buildings, and fine gardens. Jesus (1571), fre-
quented largely by Welshmen. Fine hall, chapel,
and library. Wadham (1613), beautiful gardens.
Fine chapel and hall, with timber roof. Pembroke
(1624), Samuel Johnsop's college. 'Worcester
(1714), beautiful gardens and lake. Keble, built by
^subscription as a memorial to the Eev. John Keble,
in 1870.
Oxford to London by Great Western Ely., 63^ M,»
by N. Western, 78 M. (lis., 8s. 4d,, 5s. 3d.).
138 LONDON.
London.
Hotels. — Albemarle, Avondale, Berkeley, Picca-
dilly ; Carlton, Pall Mall ; Broivn's and St. George's
Hotel, Dover-St. ; Bristol, Burlington Gardens;
Claridge's, Buckland's, Brook-St, ; Windsor, Vic-
toria-St. ; Buchinghain Palace liotel', St. Ermin's^
Caxton-St. ; Langham, Portland PI. ; Ford's, Man-
chester-St. ; De Keyser's B.oyal, Blackf riars Bridge ;
Savoy, Cecil, Thames Embankment ; Moriey's, Tra-
falgar Sq. ; Curson. ivlayfair; Waldorf, Aldwjch;
Hans Crescent Hotel ; South Kensington Hotel,
Alexandra, Hyde Park Corner; Bailey's, Gloucester
Rd.; iVbrr^Vs,* Russell Rd.; Hotel Russell, Russell
:Sq. ; Inns of Court, First Avenue, High Holborn;
Bedford Head, Tottenham Court Rd. There are
several good hotels for men only, among which may
be mentioned Jbrns^foc/j, (movent Garden ; Cavendish,
MorWs, Brunswick, Cox's, British, Jermyn St.
A peculiar institution of London and some other
English towns is the temperance hotel; of this class
:are Philip's Cockiurn Hotel, Endsleigh Gardens ;
West Ce7itral, Southampton Row ; Shirley's, Queen
Sq. ; Kingsley, Hart St. ; Thackeray, Gt. Russell St.
Each of the principal railway stations has a large and
often yery good hotel connected with it ; there are
the Great Eastern, Liverpool St. ; City Terminus
Hotel, Cannon St.; Holborn Viaduc.t ; Ilidland
'Grand, St. Pancras Station; Great Western, Pad-
dington Station ; Great Central, Marylebone Station ;
Grosvenor, Victoria Station; Charing Cross; Great
Northern, King's Cross ; Huston, Euston Square. In
Albermarle, New Bond, Dover, Arlington, St. James,
and Clifford Sts. are many fashionable hotels. In and
around Covent Garden and the Strand are many
excellent houses. At the great houses, single rooms,
4s. -15s. per day; attendance, Is. 6cl. ; breakfast, 2s.
6d.-3s. 6d. ; table d'hote dinner, without wine, 5s.;
General Map of Loudon sliowing Main Streu
rjublic Buildin^-s, and Cliiet Kaiiway Stations
^1
ENGLAND 129
luncheon a la carte. In some hotels dinner is 7s, 6d.
to 10s. 6d. In hotels of second order bedrooms cost
2s. 6d.-6s. ; attendance, Is.-ls. 6d. ; breakfast, 2s. 6d. :
dinner, 3s. -4s. Beware of ordering- dinner a la carte
in the coffee-rooms : the bill becomes enormous. If
you stay more than 3-4 days, the servants who wait
on you all expect gratuities. Boarding. — There are
several excellent private boarding establishments
patronized mainly by Americans. Furnished Lodg'
ings without board are not expensive. Very good
double bedrooms may be had for 15s. -21s. per week;
breakfast per person, in the house, 12s. 6d.-15s. per
week; single bedrooms, 8s. -14s. per week.
Restaurants. — London has been poor in these in
comparison with Paris and other Continental cities,
but is no longer so. We may mention especially
the Trocadero, Piccadilly and Criterion, in Picca-
dilly Circus ; Frascati's, Oxford St. ; Verry and Bur-
lington, Regent St. ; Holhorn, Horseshoe, Tottenham
Court Rd. ; Kettner^s, Soho ; Dieudonne, Ryder St. ;
Florence, Rupert St.; Simpson^ s, Romano's, Gatti's,
Tivoli Grand, Colonnade, Adelphi, in the Strand;
Old Blue Post Tavern, Cook St., W. ; Prince's, Pic-
cadilly. In the City are the Auction Mart, Token-
house Yard ; London Tavern, Penchurch St. ; Pimm's,
Poultry St. ; Crosby Hall, Bishopsgate Within ; Old
Cheshire Cheese, Wine Office Court; Sweeting,
Cheapside. Many of the large hotels have good, but
expensive, tahle d'hote dinners.
The American Ambassador to the Court of St.
James is Hon. Whitelaw Reid. The Consul-General
of the U. S. in London is Mr. John L. Griffiths.
A Round-Trip Omnibus Route. — From Trafal-
gar Sq. take a Blackwall (blue) omnibus via Charing
Cross, the Strand, Fleet St., Ludgate Hill, Cheapside,
the Bank, Cornhill, Aldgate. Whitechapel, Commer-
cial Rd., to Bnrdett Rd. Get down here, and take
tramway (yellow horse-car) through Victoria Park.
Walk up the Victoria Park Rd.. and at the end of the
180 LONDONo
road take the tram to City Kd., past Hackney and
Old St. Rd. City Rd. crosses Old St. Rdo Take tram
(blue) to Archway Tavern by City Rd., Liverpool Rd.
and Holloway Rd. From HoUoway Rd. a car may
be taken via Caledonian Rd. to King's Cross, and
from King's Cross take (green) omnibus to The Castle,
Camden Town. Walk to the Bi^itannia, Camden
Town, and take a (claret) Camden Town omnibus to
Bishop's Rd. through Park St., St. John's Wood Rd.,
past Lords Cricket Ground, Grove Rd., Church St.,
Paddington Green. From where this omnibus stops
another Tyellow) may be taken via Edgware Rd.,
Oxford St., Holborn, the Viaduct, Cheapside, King
William St. and London Bridge. From London
Bridge take a (green) omnibus to the Elephant and
Castle. From this point take a tram to Westminster,
and then (yellow) omnibus to Trafalgar Square.
The Underground Railways are convenient.
The Metropolitan and Metropolitan Distinct Rys.
run in a circle from Notting Hill Gate to Aldgate
and have numerous feeders to the suburbs. The
City a7id South London Electric Ry., the Waterloo
and City Ry. and the Bakerloo (Baker St., Water-
loo) pass in tunnels beneath the Thames, the former
to Clapham Common, the two latter to Waterloo
Station. The Central London Ry., called popularly
the " Twopenny Tube," runs in nearly a straight line
from the Bank of England to Shepherd's Bush.
Tramways in outlying districts are numerous (fares
2d. toSd).
Cab- fares. — Within a 4-M. radius, of which Char-
ing Cross is centre, fares are regulated thus : for any
distance under 2 M., Is.; for every additional M. or
fraction, 6d. Within central part of London the or-
dinary course is rarely more than Is. Taximeter cabs
charge 6d. for 1st M. or 12 min., 3d. for each succeed-
ing ^ M. or 6 min. Outside 4-M. circle. Is. per M.
When engaged by hour, 4-wheel cabs, locally called
Section of London, wit
lington House as Centre.
TUo " City " oi" London {The Citi}
ms are indicated hy the dotted lines).
ENGLAND ' 131
growlers, inside the radius, for 1 hr. or less, 2s.; for
every additional 15 min., 6d. Baggage, 2d per pk. ;
hansoms, per h., 2s. 6d. ; every additional 15 min. , 8d.
Theatres, etc. — The following are the principal
theatres: Aldwycli, Strand; ^IpoZZo, Shaftesbury Av.;
Adelphi. Strand; Comedy, Panton St., Haymarket;
Court, Sloane Sq. ; Covent Garden (opera) ; Criterion,
Piccadilly Circus; Daly's, Leicester Sq. ; Drury Lane,
Catherine St.; Duke of York's, St. Martin's Lane;
Garrick, Charing Cross Rd. ; The Hicks, Shaftes-
bury Ave. ; Gaiety, Strand; Hippodrome; Haymar-
Tcet; Lyric, Shaftesbury Ave.; His Majesty's, Hay-
market; Lyceum; New Royalty, Dean St., Shaftes-
bury Ave. ; New Theatre, St. Martin's Lane; The
Playhouse; Prince of Wales', Coventry St. ; Savoy,
Strand; Scala Theatre, Charlotte St. ; Shaftesbury,
Shaftesbury Ave. ; St. James's, King St. ; Terry's,
Strand; iwpermZ, Westminster; Vaudeville, Strand;
Waldorf, Aldwych; Wyndham's, Charing Cross Rd.
The E. End theatres, of which there are several, are
worth a visit, to get an idea of how the lower classes
take their amusement. Music-halls abound. The best
are: The Oxford, in Oxford St.; the ^Z/iam&ra and
the Empire, Leicester Sq. ; the Metropolitan, Edge-
ware Rd. ; the Palace, Shaftesbury Ave. ; the Tivoli,
Strand; and the Pavilion^ in Piccadilly Circus. The
Aquarium, at Westminster, gives varied entertain-
ments. Visitors in winter will find the best panto-
mimes at Drury Lane and Covent Garden. In South
London is the Surrey Tlieutre, in Blackfriars Road,
which was at first a circus and later, after being re-
built, the home of the legitimate Drama. Promenade
concerts iire held in Aug. and Sept., at Covent Gar-
den; good concerts, with ballad singing, are plenty
during the season at St. James's Hall and the Royal
133 LONDON-ST. PAUL'S CATHEDRAL.
Albert Hall. The latter has celebrated organ of
10,000 pipes and 130 stops.
Museums. — The British Museum, Great Russell
St.; see p. 147. Bethnal Green Museum, Cambridge
Rd. ; paintings, food products, British butterflies, etc. ;
Wed. 6d., other days free. Geological, Jeremyn St.;
10 till dusk; free on introduction by a member.
Natural History, South Kensington; 10 till dusk;
free. South Kensington, see p. 149. Sir John
Soane's, 13 Lincoln's Inn Fields; antiquities; 10 till
dusk, free on application. United Service, Whitehall
Yard; war relics, model of Battle of Waterloo, etc.;
admission (except Wed.) 6d. Indian, S. Kensington;
free. J.rc/w7ec^wre, Tufton St.; free; Atitiquarian,.^.
Burlington House; free on application to secretary. •■ j
Guildhall, King St.; London antiquities; free. Bo-
tanical, Regent's Park; free on order from one of the
Fellows. Linnman, Burlington House; free on
Member's order. Royal College of Surgeons, Lin-
coln's Inn Fields; anatomical and pathological speci-
mens. The Wallace Collection of paintings, furni-
ture, ceramics, armor, etc., is in Hertford House,
Manchester Square. Mme. Tussaud's Waxworks
are in the Marylebone Road (daily, 11-6, Is.), with
200 figures of celebrities.
The City lies between Temple Bar (W) and Aid-
gate (E), the Thames (S) and Smithfield and Fins-
bury Circus (N), and has about 60,000 inhab. and
the great offices, warehouses, etc. Westminster lies
between the city and Chelsea, Oxford St. and the
Thames, and has the chief palaces and modern
streets. There are also eight boroughs, and scores of
annexed villages, in the " Metropolitan District,"
which covers 690 square M., having 6,600 M. of
streets, and 550,000 buildings.
St. Paul's Cathedral was built by Wren in 1675-
1710, on a site before occupied by a temple of Diana,
a Roman British ch., and King Ethelbert's ch., built
ENGLAND. 133
in 610 and uestroyed in 1666. Here King John yielded
to the Pope (in 1213) ; Wyckliffe was cited for heresy
(1337) ; and Tyndale's New Testament was burned
(1537). St. Paul's is a Latin Cross, with nave 500 X
118 ft. ; transepts, 250 ft. long; inner dome, 225 ft.
high ; and height to top of cross, 404 ft. St. Peter's
and Milan and Seville Cathedrals are larger. It is
open from 10 a. m. to dark. Services at 8 and 10 A.
M., and 4 and 8 p. m. Fee at Crypt, 6d.; Whisper-
ing and Stone Galleries, 6d.; Library, 6d.; Ball, Is.
6d. The W. front is flanked by high campaniles.
The interior is vast, but bare. See organ and wood
carvings in the choir, and monuments of Howard,
the philanthropist ; Donne, the poet-dean ; Dean
Milman ; Bishop Heber ; Dr. Johnson ; Hallam, the
historian ; Lord Nelson ; Gen. Pakenham ; Sir John
Moore ; Lord Rodney, etc. In the crypt are the
porphyry and marble sarcophagi of "Wellington, Nel
son, and Collingwood ; Wellington's hearse ; and the
tombs of the artists Reynolds, West, Lawrence, Tur«
ner, Fuseli, and Barry. From the S. aisle, ascend to
Library (10,000 vols.), WJdsjjering Oallery, Stone
Gallery, and Ball. Hare speaks of St. Paul's as
"sublimely grandiose, with a sooty dignity all its
own " ; and Hawthorne found it * ' unspeakably grand
and noble It would not be nearly so grand
without this drapery of black."
Paternoster Row, famous for books, is N. of the
Cathedral ; and S. are the Beanery, Choristers' School,
and Herald's College. Down the Row is Waricick Lane,
once the haunt of Lord Warwick, the king-maker.
The General Post-OfEce and Telegraph Office are
immense buildings near by, nearly hiding St. Vedasfs
Ch., one of Wren's masterpieces. The wealthy
Christ's Hospital, founded hy Edward VI., on the
site of a Greyfriars' convent, has 1,200 blue- robed
pupils; Richardson, Coleridge, Lamb, and Leigh Hunt
were educated hei-A. Ne^wgate, a famous prison
134 NEWGATE. — GUILDHALL.
where Jack Sheppard, Titus Gates, Wm. Penn, and
Daniel Defoe were confined, is in the Old Bailey,
reached from Ludgate Hill. N. of Christ's is iSt.
Bartliolomeiv''s Hospital^ a great quadrangle
founded as a priory in 1102, and converted into
a hospital by Henry VIII. In the Great Hall
are paintings by Hogarth, Lawrence, Keynolds,
etc. The grand Norman Ch. dates from 1102, and
has rare monuments. The vast adjacent Smith-
field Market (3 1-2 acres under roof) occupies the
ground once used for the revels, miracle-plays, and
tournaments of Bartholomew Fair, and later for
the martyrdoms under Bloody Mary and Elizabeth.
Here, also, Wat Tyler and Sir Wm. Wallace were
put to death. ISTewgate-St. leads to the noble Hol-
toorn Viaduct, spanning a deep valley, at one end
of which is >S'^. Bepulclire' s Gli. (John Rogers was
its rector), containing the tomb of Captain John
Smith. Near Smithfield is the picturesque Char-
terliouse, a rich school and asylum on the site of a
Carthusian convent (1371). Among the pupils here
were Steele, Addison, Blackstone, Wesley, Grote,
Lovelace, Barrow, Eastlake, John Leech, Thirl wall,
Thackeray, and Havelock. See the Elizabethan
Great Chamber ; cloisters, chapel, and pictures in
the Master'' s Lodge ; also, in adjacent Bunhill
Fields, tombs of Bunyan, Defoe, and Dr. Watts ;
and, in St. John's Lane, Clerkenwell, the rare old
Bt. John's Gate, built in 1504. The Guildhall,
originally built 1411-31, but almost entirely de-
.stroyed in the Great Fire of 1666, has the inuni-
cipal offices, a Gothic Library, a museum (Ro-
man antiques, etc.), a beautiful crypt, a'^d fine
portraits. The Great Hall, 153 x 50 feb., has
a noble timber roof, stained windows, and the
ENGL AM). 135
wooden giants, Gog and Magog. GresJiam Col-
hge (1579) and Goldsmiths' Hall are close by.
Cheapside is a busy street, with handsome shops,
from whicli run Bread-St., where Milton was born, and
Milk-St., where Sir Thomas More was born and on
whicli stood the Mermaid Inn, beloved by Shakes-
peare, Ben Jonson, Beaumont and Fletcher, Donne,
etc. Bow Ch., built by Wren, rises over a Norman
crypt, and is crowned by a great dragon, on a tower
235 ft. high. Whoever is born within sound of its
bells is a " cockney." Mercers' Hall, with its rich pil-
lared court, is on the site of Thomas ^ Becket's
birthplace (1119). The Grocers' and Armorers' (fine
hall and rich armor) Halls are farther on. The Man-
sion House (1739-1753), and famous for the Egyp-
tian Hall, is the palace of the Lord Mayor. The
costly new Queen Victoria-St. leads thence, by
Apothecaries' Hall and The Times Office, to Black-
friars Bridge (|^M.). Opposite the Mansion House
Is the low, massive, and broad-based Bank of Eng-
land, which keeps $75-100,000,000 in coin in its
vaults. The splendid Royal Exchange, with its
rich carvings, Corinthian colonnades, and campanile,
and the Stock Exchange, are near by. Statues of
Wellington and Peabody, near Exchange ; also
Crosby Hall, built in 1466 ; and St. Helen's Ch. , of
the 12th century. In Cornhill, Gray, the poet, was
born. St. Michael's Ch. w^as built by Wren, and St.
Catherine Cree by Inigo Jones. Lombard-St. is the
Wall-St. of London ; Mincing Lane, the headquar-
ters of colonial trade ; Mark Lane, the grain mar-
ket. In St. Olave's Ch. is the tomb of Pex)ys ; and in
Trinity Ch. (formerly a Minorite nunnery) is the
Duke of Suffolk's head. St. Stcithin's ' Ch. has the
famous London stone, a Roman milliarium, built
into its wall. The venerable St. Saviour's Ch. is
over London Bridge, and has a beautiful Lady Chapgl
136 THE TOWER.
and Choir, and t ombs of Massinger, Fletcher, Gow-
er, and Shakespeare's brother. Beyond is the an-
cient Guy's Hospital, in whose ch. Astley Cooper
is buried. King- Willimn-Bt. runs from the Bank,
by St. Mary Woolnotfi's Ch. and the site of Fal-
stafii's Boafs Head Tavern, to London Bridge,
928 ft. long, built in 1825-31, at a cost of $10,-
000,000, on 5 granite arches. 20,000 carriages and
100,000 pedestrians cross it daily. The Romans
and the Saxons had bridges here. The Monu-
ment, 202 ft. high, built by Wren in 1671-77 to
commemorate the Great Fire of 1666 (which de-
stroyed 1357,000,000 of property) is close by. Fine
■view from its top (fee, 3d.). Thames-8t. was Chau-
cer's home, 1379-85. St. Magnus the Martyr, one
of Wren's Chs., has Miles Coverdale's tomb.
Farther E. is Billingsgate, the famous fish-market,
The Custom House is 490 ft. long, on a quay be^
side the Thames.
The Tower is " historically the most interest^
ing spot in England" (open daily, 10-4, 6d.; Mon.
and Sat. , free). A stone bridge leads to the Outer
Bail ; and the Bell Tower and Traitors' Gate are
passed on the way to the Inner Bail, in which rises
the famous White Tower, built by William the
Conqueror, on the site of a Roman fort. It is 96
X 116 ft. in area, and 95 ft. high, with turreted
walls 12 ft. thick. Here Richard II . abdicated his
throne (1399), and James I. of Scotland was im-
mured. The beautiful Norman Chapel of St. John
is here ; also the Council Chamber and Banqueting
Hall. Among the prisoners of the Tower have been
King John of France, King David Bruce of Scot-
land, the Dukes of Orleans and Marlborough, Wil-
liam Wallace, Archbishop Cranmer, Lord Straf-
ford, and William Lord Russell. Outside is a col-
ENGLAND. 137
Election of ancient cannon ; and the Horse Armoury^ full
of trophies, ancient armor of all nations, and 22 eques*
trian figures in full English, Burgundian, and German
armor, of dates from 1272 to 1688, and once worn by
princes and nobles. Upstairs are trophies from Quebec,
Malta, India, New Zealand, etc. Qtieen ElizaheWs
Armoury contains weapons of the Elizabethan age, the
block on which Lord Lovat was decapitated, and the
axe which struck off the Earl of Essex's head. Ad'
jacent is the 10 X 8 cell in which Sir lYalter Ealeigh
was confined, 1603-16. The Bloody Tower was that m
which the sons of Edward IV. were murdered ; Lord
Dudley was imprisoned in the Beauchamp Totoer; Prin-
cess Elizabeth, in the Bell Tower ; Lady Jane Grey, in the
Brick Tower. The Duke of Clarence was put to death
in the Bowyer Tower; and Henry VI. in Wakefeld Tower,
In the Jewel House are the Crown Jewels.^ valued
at $15,000,000: 8t. Edward's crown; Victoria's crown,
with 2,783 diamonds, and a wonderful sapphire and
ruby (it cost ^560,000); several other crowns; the
royal sceptre, and other sceptres and orbs ; the Koh-i-
Noor diamond ; etc. In the cemetery attached to the
ancient chapel of St. Peter ad Vmcula are the remains
of Anne Boleyn, Sir Thomas More, two Earls of Essex,
Lord Somerset, Lady Jane Grey, the Dukes of North-
umberland and Monmouth, and other noble victims.
On Tower Hill stand Trinity House, whose brethren
care for the British lighthouses and buoys, and the
Royal Mint. William Penn was born on Tower Hill ;
and the poet Otway died there. St. Katherines and
London Docks are E. of the Tower, with vast crowded
warehouses. London Docks cover 120 acres, and cost
$20,000,000. Earther down are other vast docks, the
largest in the world. N. W. of the Tower are Bethnal
Green Museum and Victoria Bark. In the Swedish Ch
at Shadwell, Swedenborg is buried.
138 FLEET-STKEET. — THE TEMPLE.
Blackfriars Bridge, 1,272 ft. long, on gtanite piers,
is named from a monastery formerly hard by, founded
in 1276, and where Cardinal Wolsey divorced Katherine
of Aragon from Henry VIII. Shakespeare and Bei?
Jonson formerly lived at Blackfriars. The Victoria
Embankment runs along tlie N. bank of the Thames,
from Blackfriars to Westminster Bridge, 1-| M,, occu-
pied by a roa^ and walks 100 ft. wide. This work was
done, 1864-70, at a cost of $10,000,000. It is adorned
with trees and gardens, and statues of Mill, Outram,
and Brunei, Here also stands Cleopatra's Needle, the
great Egyptian obelisk. See also the ancient Water-
gate of York House, built by Inigo Jones. On the site
of Durham House is the Adelphi Terrace, where King
Kamehameha II. and David Garrick died.
Fleet-St. runs from near St. Paul's to the Strand,
passing Congregational Memorial Hall, on. the site
of Fleet Prison, made famous by Dickens ; the office of
Vunch; St. Bride's Ch., built by Wren, near site of
Bridewell Prison, with tomb of Richardson the nov-.
elist; Bolt Court, where Dr. Johnson lived (1776-
81) and died, and Cobbett labored; Cheshire Cheese
hm, frequented by Johnson, Boswell, and Goldsmith ;
Whitefriars, on the site of an ancient Carmelite monas-
tery; Alsatia (down Bouverie-St.), the home of rogues,
described in Scott's Fortunes of Nigel ; the site of
Izaak Walton's hosiery-shop, 1621-43 ; the Gothic CJ^.
of St. Dunstan in the West ; Mitre Cotirt, and its famous
old inn ; and the Neio Record Office (open 10-1), a stately
Tudor building, coutainmg the Domesday Book. The
Temple was founded by the Knights Templar in 1184,
and reverted to the Crown on their dissolution, in 1313.
In 1346 it was leased to the law schools, which have
ever since occupied it. The buildings extend -Crom
Fleet-St. to the famous Tem])le Gardens^ where the
ENGLAND. 139
iVar of the Roses broke out. The Middle Temple has
a splendid Elizabethan Gothic hall (built 1572), with
dark oaken ceiling and princely portraits. Dr. John-
son, Chaucer, Blackstone, Lamb, and Oliver Goldsmith
lived in the Middle Temple ; and the lattei' is buried in
the yard of the very beautiful Temple Ch. (open 10-12,
1-4 daily), built in 1185-1240, which has quaint
old Templars' monuments, rich stained windows, and
polished pillars of Purbeck marble. Nearly opposite ,
across Fleet-St., are the vast and superb new Law
Courts, in Gothic architecture, which have cost over
^5,000,000. Farther N. is the famous Lincoln's Inn»
the home of lawyers, with a great library, a quaint
chapel built by Inigo Jones, and a handsome Tudor
diuins^-hall. Pitt, More, and Brougham long lived here.
In Lincoln's Inn Fields is the lioyal College of Sur-
geons, with a vast museum ; near by is the Soane
MuseiLm, with rare MSS. and early books, antique
gems, mediteval and Renaissance curiosities, and
paintings by Hogarth, Turner, Eastlake, Reynolds.
Gray's Inn, on the IST. side of Ilolborn, has been a
law school since 1371. Bacon was a member here.
Reyond the monument on the site of Temple Bar
(built in 1670 ; taken down 1878), Fleet-St. is con-
tinued as the Strand, connecting the city and the
W". End. St. Clement Danes Ch. stands over the
tombs of Harold Harefoot and other Danish war-
riors. Dr. Johnson used to worship here ; Joe
Miller and the poet Otway are buried in the ch.-
yard. Hard by is Clement's Inn, sacred to law-
yers, and often mentioned by Shakespeare. Essex,
Arusiel, Norfolk, and Surrey-Sts., named from
the jMilaces of the great nobles formerly there-
abouts, diverge to the Embankment, In the latter
lived Congreve and Sale ; Peter the Great lived in
140 WATERLOO BRIDGE-COVENT GARDEN
Buckin^ham-St. Thomas a Becket was priest of the
Ch. of St. Mary le Strand. Voltaire lived in Maiden
Lane. Somerset House is a vast Government build-
ing, on the site of the Lord Protector's Palace, with a
splendid front towards the Thames. Here may be
seen (10-3 dally) the wills of Holbein, Shakespeare,
Van Dyck, Newton, Dr. Johnson, and Napoleon I.
Waterloo Bridge was built at a cost of $5,000,000.
Exeter Hall stands in this region of theatres, and is a
famous centre of religious movements. The Chapel
Royal, Savoy, a Gothic ch., with ancient tombs, is ia
Savoy-St.. It was built in 1505, on the site of the
Savoy Palace, given by Henry III. to Peter of Savoy ;
owned by John of Gaunt ; destroyed by Wat Tyler's
mob ; and replaced by Henry VII. with a hospital. In
the Palace, Chaucer wrote several poems ; and there
King John of France died. To the N. is Covent
Garden, the chief fruit, flower, and vegetable market
of London (visit before 7 a.m., Tues., Thurs., or Sat.),
on site of convent gardens granted to the Dukes of
Bedford in 1551, and still held by them. Here lived-
Sir Kenelm Digby, Bishop Berjieley, Lord Crewe, Sir
Godfrey Kneller, etc. ; and the poet Marvell and the
painter Turner dwelt in Maideti Lane. Inigo Jones
built Si. Pa fir s Ch., in whose yard Samuel Butler
C'Hudibras"), Sir Peter Lely, " Peter Pindar," the
dramatist Wycherley, and the famous wood-carver Grin-
ling Gibbons, are buried. The Royal Italian Opera-House
is in Covent Garden; and near it is the Floral Hall.
A-t Charing Cross is a modern copy of a cross
erected near its site by Edward I., in 1201. There
is an ancient equestrian statue of Charles I. at
Charing Cross. "The full tide of existence is at
Charing Cross," said Dr. Johnson. Harry Vane.
Barrow, and Johnson lived hereabouts.
ENGLAND. 141
The splendid Trafalgar Square contains a col-
umn 177 ft. high, with a colossal statue of Nelson,
and colossal lions designed by Landseer ; also
statues of Gordon, Havelock, George IV, and Sir
Charles Napier, On one side stood Nm^thuniberm
land House, the palace of the Percies, bought by
the Board of Works for $2,500,000, and demolished
in 1874. On part of its site stands the Grand Ho-
tel. The Gil. of St. Martin in the Fields has a fine
Grecian front ; and in its yard lie Roubillac the sculp-
tor, Parquliar the dramatist, and Nell Gwynne, The
magnificent National Gallery (free, open Mon.,
Tues., Wed., and Sat., 10 a.m., till dark: Thurs. and
Fri., 6d.; Sun., in summer) N. of Square, has a classic
fa9ade, 460 ft. long. It contains over 1,000 pictures,
and is visited ' by nearly 1,000,000 persons yearly.
Each picture has its title and artist inscribed upon
it. Fine busts and statues in the Hall. Many of the
most famous pictures of the world, familiar by countless
engravings, are in this great collection. National
Portrait Gal. adjoins the Nat, Gal., open same days.
Whitehall leads S. to Whitehall Palace, where
Henry VIII. met Anne Boleyn, and where he died ;
where Holbein dwelt ; whence Elizabeth was removed
to prison, and Charles I. to execution ; where Milton
and Cromwell dwelt, and the latter died ; where Charles
II. held court. The site was occupied by the palace of
Hubert de Burgh (13th century), a Dominican con-
vent, and the palace of Cardinal Wolsey. The great
Palladian Bcmqueting Hall only remains, designed by
Inigo Jones, painted by Rubens, and now used as a
royal chapel (service on Sun. at 11 and 3). In a
house near by, Sir Robert Peel died. In this vicmity
is Scotland Yard, famous in police annals ; once the
property of the Scottish Idngs, and later the home of
Wren, Milton, Inigo Jones. Also Montague House,
142 THE HOUSES OF PARLIAMENT.
tlie palace of the Duke of Buccleucli. In Whitehall
Yard is the United Service Museum, crowded with tro-
phies of the wars of Britain on all seas and shores,
relics of Cromwell, Nelson, Wolfe, Drake, Franklin,
Wellington, Napoleon, etc. The Horse-Guarda,
headquarters of the army, is opposite Whitehall. See
mounted Life-Guards sentries, 10-4 daily. The Treas^
ury comes next S. The new Public Offices, built
in 1868-73 by Sir G. G. Scott (cost, $2,500,000), p
splendid pile of Itahan buildings, contain the Home,
Foreign, Colonial, and India Offices.
The Houses of Parliament form an immense
Tudor Gothic pile, of Yorkshire magnesian limestone
(already crumbling), covering 8 acres, with 11 courta
and 1,100 i-ooms, erected 184U-59. Strangers admitted
between 10 and 3 on a member's order. Fagade along
Thames (940 ft. long) is adorned with statues and
shields of all the sovereigns of England. The splendid
Victoria Tower is 340 ft. high and 75 ft. square ; the
Middle Tower is 300 ft. high ; and the Clock Tower,
318 ft. high, has a huge clock (dials 23 ft. across), and
Big Ben, a bell weighing 13 tons. The oldest part is
Westminster Hall, built by William Rufus in 1097, and
covered with the present wonderful roof of Irish oak
by Richard II. a splendid hall, 270 ft. long and 92 ft.
high, formerly the seat of England's most august tri-
bunals. Here Wallace, Strafford, Guy Fawkes, More,
Wyatt, Lords Essex, Cobham, and Arundel, the Dukes
of Somerset, Buckingham, and Norfolk, the Scottish
nobles who favored the Stuarts, and King Charles I.
were condemned to death. Here Warren Hastings
was tried, and also the Seven Bishops. Here Edward
III. received the captive kings, David of Scotland and
John of France. Here Cromwell was installed Lord
Protector. Here the coronation-banquets have been
ENGLAND. 143
held for 800 years. A stairway descends to the crypt
or C/i. of_St. Mary Undercroft, built by King Steplien,
and lately made res|:>lendent as a chapel. St. Stephen s
Cloisters, E. of the hall, were built by Henry YIII,
Ascending from the hall, enter St. Stephens Hall, with
statues of 12 English statesmen and 12 ancient mon-
archs ; and the Central Hall, a lofty octagon, with
statues. The corridors have large frescos of scenes
from English history. The House of Commons, 75 X
45 ft., is panelled wdth oak, and has 12 stahied "win-
dows. The House of Lords, 97 X 45 ft., is a superb
Gothic room, wath 12 stained windows, statues of the
Magna-Charta barons, 6 splendid historical frescos,
the Lord Chancellor's M^oolsack and the thrones of the
Queen and the Prince of Wales. See the Prince's
Chamber, Upper Waiting-Hall, Peers' Robing-Room,
superb Yictoria Gallery, and Queen's Pobing-Room
(richly frescoed). In Old Palace Yard is a statue of
Richard Coeur de Lion. Near by Chaucer and Ben
Jonson died. The old Parliament House, erecLeu
on the site of the palace of the Anglo-Saxon and
Plantagenet kings, and burned in 1834, contained
the Star Chamber, and was the birthplace of
Edward I., and the scene of the death of Edward
the Confessor. Here resounded the eloquence of
Pitt, Pox, Chatham, Burke, Canning, and Grattan.
Westminster Bridge, built 1856-62, at a cost of
$1,250,000, commands a fincTiew of Parliament House.
St. Margaret's Ch. replaced a ch. built in 1064 by
Edward the Confessor, and has a magnificent old E.
window (The Crucifixion) and many quaint tombs, in-
cluding those of poet-laureate Skelton, Milton's wdfe,
Cromwell's mother, Wm. Caxton, Lady Dudley, Har-
rington {author gf Oceana), Sir Wm. Waller, and Si?
144 WESTMINSTER ABBEY
Walter Raleigh (who is buried under the altar).
Many fine memorials stand in this vicinity ; also
Milton's house, lately occupied by Hazlitt, and fre-
quented by Lamb and Haydon; Jeremy Bentham's
house ; the quaint old Gray Coat School ; and the
pretty houses of Queen Anne's Gate.
Westminster Abbey was founded (on the site
of a temple to Apollo) by the Anglo-Saxon King
Sebert in 616, for Benedictines; destroyed by Danes;
and rebuilt by Edgar (985), Edward the Confessor
(1049), Henry III., and Edward I. Henry VIII.
drove out the monks, Queen Mary restored them,
and Elizabeth scattered them for ever, AU the
sovereigns of England since Harold have been
•crowned here. It is 416 feet in length and 103 feet
high, with W. towers 225 feet high. It is a splen-
did Early-English building, immense, harmonious,
solemn, richly colored. (Enter near St. Margaret's;
open, except Sunday, 9 a.m. till darl?:. Services
at 8, 10 and 3 daily. Entrance to chapels, 6d. ;
Monday and Tuesday free.) It is world-renowned
as England's Temple of Fame, crowded with monu-
ments of kings, heroes and scholars. In the AT.
Transept are the monuments of Admirals Warren,
Tern on, Wager, Lord Chatham, Canning, Castle-
Teagh, Peel, Mansfield, two Dukes of Newcastle,
Warren Hastings, Cobden, Buller, and many famous
lords. . In the abbey are monuments to Wilberf orce,
Stamford Raffles, Powell Buxton, Isaac jSTewton,
Charles Lyell, Fox, Holland, Pitt, Wordsworth,
Keble, Congreve, BuckTand, Outram, Major Andre,
Dr. Watts, John Wesley, Greneral Paoli, Kneiler,
Livingstone, Stephenson, etc. The Poets' Corner
•contains inscriptions to Goldsmith, Gay, Handel,
Thomson, Southey, Shakespeare, Campbell, Sher-
idan, Camden, Dickens, Grote, Macaulay, Thirl-
wall, Addison, Thackeray, Casaubon, Barrow,
ENGLAND. 145
Garnck, Prior, Gra/, Milton, Spenser, Butler, J onson.
Drayton, Chaucer, Cowley, Dryden, South, Browning
and Tennyson. See chapels of St. Benedict, St.
Edmo7id and St. Nicholas. The Chapel of Henry
VII., built 1502-20, has nave, aisles, and 5 chapels,
with 1,000 statues, exquisite carved-oak cboir-stalls on
eacli side (with the swords and banners of tlie Knights
of tlie Bath), and a magnificent stone roof of fauwork
tracery. See tombs of Henry VII., James L, Mary
Queen of Scots, Charles II., William and Mary, George
of Denmark, Edward VI., Queen Anne, George II.,
the Duke of Montpensier, Dean Stanley, Queen Eliza-
beth, Edward V., etc. The Chapel of St. Edward the
Confessor has tombs of Henry V., Katheriue of Valois,
Henry III., Queen Eleanor, Richard II., Philippa of
Hainault, Edward the Confessor, and Edward I. ; also,
the Scottish and English Coronation Chairs, and the
sword and sliield of Edward III. The Chapels of St.
John, St. Erasmus, and the Abbot Islip contain ancient
tombs, near which are those of Aymer de Valence and
Gen. Wolfe. The Chapels of Sts. John, Andrew, and
Michael have monuments to Humphry Davy, Dr.
Young, Mrs. Siddons, etc. The Chapter -Rouse, built
1250, and occupied by the House of Commons, 1282-
1547, adjoins the Poets' Corner, and is near the Chapel
of the Pyx, St. Blaise's Chapel, and the stairs to the
Triforium. Near by are the beautiful Cloisters, The
world-renowned Jerusalem Chamber was built 1376-8&.
Here Henry IV. died; and here the recent revision of
the Bible was carried out. Westminster School,
founded by Queen Ehzabeth (1560), is entered near the
column to the W. Wren, Gibbon, Cowley, Cowper,
Churchill, Jonson, Dryden, Prior, Locke, Southej,
Hakluyt, and Warren Hastings were educated here.
146 ENGLAND.
St. Thomases Hospital is a line of buildings
|- M. long (cost $2,500,000), opposite Parliament
House. Beyond, and also on the Thames, is Lara-
beth I-alaee, for 700 years the London house of
the Archbishops of Canterbury, very beautiful and
interesting. Enter by Cardinal Moreton's lofty em-
battled gateway. The Ball has a fine timber-roof, and
library of 30,000 vols. Hon , Wed., Thurs., Fri.,
10-4). The Guard Charnher has portraits of many
archbishops. The Chapel, in which these prelates
are consecrated, dates from 1244-70. In the Lol-
lards^ Tower Lollards were imprisoned and tor-
tured. In the inner court is the new Tudor palace
of the archbishops. The gardens of Lambeth are
beautiful. I M. E. is Bethlehem Hospital for the In-
sane {Bedlam) ; and a little beyond are St. George^ s
Catliedral (Roman) and Spur g eon's Tabernacle.
Pall Mall is a splendid st., nearly | M. long, run-
ning W. from Trafalgar-Square, and lined with club
houses, which are also found in St. James- St.
Among these are the University, United Service,
Athenaeum, Travellers', Reform, Carlton, Army and
Navy, Guards, and Marlborough. Pall Mall cross-
es Watei^loo Place, in which are the Crimean, Frank-.
lin, Burgoyne, and Colin-Campbell monuments,
and the York column (124 ft. high; 6d. for ascent).
In Pall Mall is Marlhorougli House, built by Wren,
former residence of the Prince of Wales; near by
St. Ja.mes^s-Sq., with palaces and club-houses. St.
James's Palace is a brick building, designed by
Holbein and built by Henry VIII. , the home of En-
gland's kings from 1691 to 1809, Victoria was
married in its chapel, and levees were held in its
state-chambers. Gaard-mounting and fine military
music daily, at 11.45. Clarence House was the home
of the Duke of Edinburgh. Stafford House
ST. JAMES'S PARK 147
(Duke of Sutherland) contains hundreds of paint-
ings. Bridgewater House (Lord Ellesmere) has
art-collections, including several Eaphaels. St.
James's Park, S. of the Palace, was created by
Henry VIII. and Charles II., and has a lake in its
centre, the Birdcage Walk and Wellington Bar-
racks on the S, , the Mall on the JST. , and on the
W. , near the Turkish cannon and Marshal Soult's
mortar, the Foot Guards parade at 10 a. m.
daily. At the W. end is Buckingham. Palace,
bought in 1761 by George III. of the Duke of Buck-
ingham, now the town-residence of the King. It
s a quadrangle, with Throne Eoom, Grand Saloon,
and othor halls, and a Picture Gallery^ containing
hundreds of old j)aintings. In the rear are large
gardens.
Regent-St., containing the finest shops in Lon-
don, and many hotels and clubs, is 1 M. long, and
leads from Pall Mall to Oxf ord-St.
JPicoadilly, a Paris- like street, runs from Hay-
market to Hyde Park (1 M.), by Geological Museum
(10-5, on member's introduction); St. James^&
Ch., built by Wren; the houses of the Eoyai, Geo-
logical, Antiquarian, Astronomical, and Chemical
Societies; the Royal Academy of Arts (many rare
paintings); London UniveisBity, with statues; Dev-
onshire House, famous in art; and other palaces
of the nobility. Green Park bounds one side of
Piccadilly. In The Albany d^4t Byron, Bulwer,
Monk Lewis, and Macaulay.
Oxford-St. li M. from HoTborn to Hyde Park,
passes Bloomsbury, Eussell, Cavendish, Hanover
and Bedford Sqs. , with their displays of statuary,
and crosses Eegent-St. and New Bond-St. , famous
for fine shops. The British Museum (open daily,
free, from 10 a.m. till dusk) is near iiev/ Oxford-
14S ENGLAND.
St. , and contains one of the grandest collections in
the world. Here are the Elgin Marbles, from the
Athenian Parthenon; hundreds of Greek and
Koman sculptures, and statuary; reliefs from Baby-
lon, Nineveh, and Nimroud; 6 rooms full of Egyp-
tian antiquities, MSS,, jewels, statues, etc. ; hun-
dreds of Greek, Etruscan, and Eoman bronzes;
antiquities of the flint, Celtic, Koman, Saxon, and
mediaeval ages in England. The Reading Room (open
only to students, apply in writing to librarian) is a
circular hall in the centre of the quadrangle, with a
dome of glass and iron ; the Library contains 1,000.-
000 books. A little way N. E. is the Foundling
Hospital, with pictures by Reynolds, Hogarth, etc.
Services in chapel, at 11 and 3 on Sundays.-
Regent's Park (472 acres), a bit of open coun-
try in a densely populated region, is li M. N. W.
of Trafalgar Sq., and contains the famous Zoologi-
cal Gardens, with numbers of birds and beasts,
(open daily, 9 a. m. till dark, Is.; Mon., 6d. Best
time to visit, 3-4). Here are the Botanical Gar-
dens. Primrose Hill lies N. ; and Lord^s CtHcket
Ground is W. 2-3 M. W. is Kensal- Green Cemetery,
where are buried Thackeray, Leigh Hunt, Sidney
Smith, Allan Cunningham, Buckle, Eastlake, Mul-
ready, Mathews the actor. Leech the cartoonist,
Gibson the sculptor. Cardinal Wiseman, etc.
Hyde Park (390 acres) was laid out by Henry
VIII. At the N. E. gate is the Marble Arch; at the
S.E., Hyde Park Corner, is another portal, opposite
which stands a tall arch, which formerly bore a
statue of Wellington. Rotten Row runs thence
to Kensington Gate (1^ M.), and is a riding-course.
The Drive, alongside, is filled with equipages.
The Serpentine is an artificial pond, with pleasure-
boats. Remarkable lawns and trees are seen on all
ENGLAND. 14^
sides. Kensington Gardens adjoin Hyde Park on the
W"., and lead to Kensington Palace, a grim brick
structure, built by William III., and the birth-place
of Queen Victoria. William and Mary, Queen Anne
and her consort, and George II. died here. Farther
W. is Holland House, a Tudor palace built in 1607,
and frequented by Cromwell and Fairfax, Wm. Penn,.
Addison, William and Mary, Moore, Rogers, and
Macaulay. S. of the Gardens stands the Albert Memo-
rial, a superb Gothic monument, 175 ft. high, covered
with statues, and composed of a Gothic canopy, under
which is a colossal statue of Albert. Across the road
is the vast oval amphitheatre of the Royal Albert
Hall, overarched with glass, holding 8,000 people,
and provided with an organ of 8,000 pipes. The
Natural History Museum faces Cromwell - Road*,^
contains geological, mineralogical, botanical, and zoo-
logical collections — formerly British Museum (open.
10-5, Sun. 2-5).
The South. Kensington Museum (free, Mon.,
Tues., Sat., 10-10 ; 6d.,Wed., Thurs., Fri., 10 a.m. till
dark; §un., 2-5; restaurant and lavatories in building)
is one of the richest in the world (^ hr. from Charing
Cross by rly.). It was founded in 1857, and has re-
ceived many generous bequests, besides $5,000,000
from Government, The first court is crowded with ar-
chitectural rarities, original or in casts. The S. Court
is surrounded with mosaic portraits of the 33 most
famous artists, and Sir F. Leighton's famous frescos^
and contains many exquisite objects of art. The N.
Court is devoted to Italian-Renaissance sculptures, al-
tars, tabernacles, etc., and costly tapestries, terra-cotta
work, fans, laces, and ancient musical instruments.
The Cloisters contain ancient and Oriental furniture,
Persian tiles, carpets, and metal-work. The National
Gallery of British Art is exceedingly interest'
150 CHELSEA. — ON THE THAMES.
ing, and has the famous Cartoons of Raphael, many
hundreds of choice paintmgs by Turner, Reynolds,
Landseer, Leslie, Wilkie, etc.; water-colors in great
variety ; and the Forster collection of autographs and
MSS. The Prince Consort Gallery contains mediaeval
works of art in gold, brass, and steel, silver-gilt, enamel,
and ivory. Tlie Keramic Oallery\\2i^ Palissy, Majolica,
Spanish, Wedgwood, Dresden, Sevres, and other wares,
in great variety. The Patent-Office Museum adjoins this
building.
Between Hyde Park and the Thames are Belgravia
and Chelsea, the former containing many fine streets,
inhabited by rich families, and the latter being noted
mainly for its Hospital for old soldiers, built by Wren.
Down the Thames. — Many dingy little steamers
ply on the Thames, touching every 10 min. at West-
minster. Charing Cross, Blackfnars, St. Paul's, etc.
(fares, l-2d.). Their focal point is London Bridge,
whence larger boats depart for Greenwich (3-4d.),
Woolwich, and the sea. You pass the Tower, St.
Catherine's Docks, London Docks, the Isle of Dogs,
the Surrey, Commercial, and W. India Docks. Below
Greenwich the river is dull. The journey
Up the Thames gives fine view of St. Paul's on
the r. ; and farther up, opposite Blackfriars, the
Times newspaper offices. Thence to Waterloo Bridge,
you have the Embankment on the r. Above this is the
Adelphi Terrace; the Obelisk, on the r.; and passing the
bridges to Charing-Cross stat. and Whitehall Stairs,
you come to Westminster Bridge. On the 1. are St.
Thomas's Hospital and Lambeth Palace; on the r., the
Houses of Parliament and Westminster Abbey. Geft
Dickens's Dictionary of the Thames (Is,}
ENGLAND. 151
Excursions in Southern England.
Windsor {Castle Inn; White Hart), 22 M. from
London, may be reached by G. W. or S. W. Railway
(return fares, 5s, 6d., 4s. 3d.). The superb state
apartments are open Mon., Tues., Thurs., Fri., Sat.,
on presentation of tickets (adults Is., children 6d.);
when the King is at home, they are not shown. (Buy
Companion through the State Apartments, Id.) The cas-
tle stands on the apex of a hill, and may be seen from
afar. Here William the Conqueror built a residence..
Edward III. was born in Windsor ; and Geoffrey Chaucer,
the poet, once lived here. The state apartments are
at the N. side. Grand entrance of the castle, George
IV.'s GatevjaT/, in the S. front, opposite the Long
Walk, a fine vista of elms, 3 M. long. Yisitors' en-
trance, Henry YIII.'s gateway. Prom the Round
Tower (open 11-4) 12 counties may be seen. See
Waterloo Hall, fine Van Dyclcs and Kubeuses ; Chapel
Royal iSt. George's (open 12-4, free), one of the finest
Gothic edifices in Europe (built in 1474), with choir
hung round with the banners, helmets, and insignia
of the Kniglits of the Garter ; Albert Chapel, formerly
Wolsey's Chapel, built by Henry YII. and reopened in
1875, superb mosaics, reredos, and cenotaph (open
Wed., Thurs., Tri., and Sat.). Tine view from the
Castle Terrace. Pleasant drive (7 M.) to Virginia
Water {Wheatsheaf Hotel). There are 1,800 acres
in the Great Park. Eton College is \ M. from
Windsor. The stone chapel, 175 ft. long, is very
handsome. Bronze statue of Henry VI. See the
fine library and MSS. There are 1,000 students here.
The college was founded in 1440. Stoke Pogis,
flip scene of Gray's Elegy, and the burial-place of the
152 HAMPTON COURT. — RICHMOND.
poet, is near Windsor. Fine monument to Gray in
Stolce Fark.
Hampton Court {Kings Arms; Mitre; Grey*
ko2md), rly. in | lir. (13 M.), or Thames (24 M.), has
an old palace covering 8 acres. It was founded by
Cardinal Wolsey, then at the height of his ambition, and
presented to Henry YIII., who coveted it. Here also
was a favorite residence of both Charles I. and Crom-
M^ell. It is now the home of pensioners of the Crown.
(State-apartments open daily, except Fri,, 10-6, March
• — Oct.; on Sun., 2-6.) See the Presence Chamber.
Galleries of nearly 1,000 paintings, and the great
Gothic Hall, hung with tapestries, and covered with a
timber roof. Purchase the Strajiger's Guide (6d.),
which gives full accounts.
Kew Royal Botanical Gardens (South Western
Rly. ; fares. Is. 9d., Is. 4d., Is. 2d. ; time, \ hr.)
contain the plants and flowers of all countries. (Buy
hand-book, 6d.) 3 M. from Kew is
Richmond {Star and Garter, famous for cuisine,
wines, and high bills), where Edward I. founded a
palace, and Queen Elizabeth died. Fine view from
Richmond Hill. The Park (2,255 acres) belongs to the
Crown and is open to the public. James Thomson and
Edmund Kean are buried in the eh. The King, when
Prince of Wales, sometimes lived at the White
Lodge. Park stocked with deer. The footpaths on
either shore afford exquisite views. At Twickenham
see Orleans Hoiise, the former residence of Louis Phi-
lippe ; ch. in which Pope is buried ; and Strawberrif
Hill, Horace Walpole's villa.
The Crystal Palace, on high ground at Sydenham,
was erected 1853-4, at a cost of $7,500,000.^ Do not
fail to see it. Return fares, including admission (every
day except Sat., when admission is 2s. 6d.), 3s., 2s. 3d.j
ENGLAND. 153
Is. 9d. You can go from London Bridge, Victoria,
Kensiiigton, Holborn, or Ludgate Hill stats. The
Aqnaiiuni, the Aviary, the wonderful Architectural
Courts, th.tr Picture Gallery, are worth insjjection.
Gardens very Ane; fireworks on summer evenings.
Good restaurantb attached. (Guide-books, Id,, 3d.,
Is.). The central hall :s 1,608 ft. long, crossed by
transepts.
The Alexandra Palace and P?,rk are 6 M. N. of
London; J hr. from Kings Cross. Admission, Is. It
is rectangular, with corner towers, covei» 7^ acres ;
and the grounds cover 480 acreb. Cee music hall
(seating 12,000), with large organ.
Ely. from Alexandra to Highgate (2 r^.), in whose
picturesque cemetery lie Faraday, S. T. Coleridge,
Lor5. Lindhurst, and George Eliot. It is an easy walk
to Hampstead Heath, 240 acres of breezy hi^hltiud
park, once famous for its highwaymen, and aow
visited for its beautiful views of London. In Hamp-
etead Ch., Sir James Mackintosh, Joanna Baillie anc
Constable, the painter, are buried.
Dulwich, ^ hr. by rly. from Victoria station (open
daily, 10-4), has paintings purchased for King Stan-
islaus of Poland, but given to God's Gift College^
Works of Murillo, Teniers, Rembrandt, Cuyp, Rubens,
Van Dyck, Velazquez, and Titian. Portrait of Mrs.
Siddons, by Sir Joshua Reynolds.
Greenwich Hospital (6M. from Charing Cross;
fares. Is., 9d., 6d.; time i h. Or by steamer in 1 hr.
from London Bridge; fares, 6d., 4d.), formerly fo-r
disabled seamen of the Royal Navy, on site of palace
where Henry VIII. was born, where he married Ann*;.
Boleyn, and where Edward VI. died. Now occupied
by the Royal Naval College. The Painted Hall i&
open daily at 10 and on Sundays at 2. The Museun
of Naval Architecture and the Cliapel are open daily,
except on Fri. and Sun., from 10 till dark.
154 ST. ALBANS.- PUTNEY.- MARGATE.
Greenwich Park (174 acres) contains some fine old
elms, planted in the time of Charles II. On a little
hill stands the Royal Observatory, built in 1675.
Harrow-on-the-Hill is 11^ M. (|- hr.) from Lon-
don. Harrow Ch. stands on an isolated hill, whence
grand panorama. Harrow is the location of the second
leading public school in the kingdom (founded 1571).
In the old schoolroom the names of Byron, Robert
Peel, Sheridan, Palmerston, and others are carved
on the panels. See the Chapel and the School
Lihrary.
St. Albans, 21 M. out (^ - 1 hr.), has a noble 'Sov-
msiiiAhbey Oh., founded by Offall., King of Mercia,
in 795 ; rebuilt 1077-88, and made a cathedral in 1877.
It is 425 ft. long, and has a massive tower (whence
fine view) ; the shrine of St. Alban, the protomartyr
of England (a. d. 324); and quaint old chantries
and stained windows. 2 battles occurred here in
the Wars of the Roses. In St. MichaeVs Ch. Bacon
is buried. See Roman walls, Gatehouse, and Clock
To'Lver.
Putney {Star and Garter) is quickly reached by
steamboat or by rly. Gribbon was born, and Pitt died
here. At Chiswick Fox and Canning died, and Ho-
garth is buried. Opposite Putney is Fulham, with a
fine old palace and park of the Bishops of London.
Lovely river-scenery in this region. To the S. is Wim-
hledon, with famous rifle-ranges. Norwich, 126|- M.
from London (fares, 21s., 16s., 10s. lOd.) has many
quaint old buildings and chs., a lofty castle, and a
splendid ISTorman cathedral (founded in 1096). Col-
chester and Ipsivich, with their fine relics of mediae-
valism, may be visited on the way to Harwich.
Margate {C liftonville Hotel; White Hart; York),
72 M. from London, is thronged with visitors in sum-
mer. Pier 900 ft. long. Principal chs. : St. John's,
Trinity, St. Paul's. Ramsgate, ^ M. S., is rather
ENGLAND. 155
more aristocratic. Season from June to Nov. Bathing
good. Fme pier, commenced in 1750. Eastbourne
{Burlington Hotel; Anchor; Albion), 65 M. from
London (express, 16s., 13s., 9s. 6d., 5s.), is a favorite
watering-place. Grand Parade faces the sea.
Hastings (^i^ee?i's, very large; Albioti; Grand;
Marine) is 76 M. from London (return fares, 25s., 20s.)
"St, Leoiiard's-on-Sea," the Belgravia of Hastings (J.?-
exandra; Royal Victoria; i^oy«T>S'aa;o?i)isthe jprettiest
watering-place in Sussex. Fine beach, and a pleasant
esplanade, with splendid line of houses fronting the
sea for 3 M. Castle may be visited. Good view of
the old town from the Sea Cliffs or the Pier (900 ft.
long). Pavilion, first-class baths, aquarium, reading-
rooms, here. Excursions should be made to Battle
Abbey, 8 M. ; Bexhill, 5 M. ; Catsfield, 3 M. At
Battle {Railway Hotel; George), battle of Hastings
was fought. The grand ruins of Battle Abbey are
open Tuesday, 12-4.
Brighton. — It is pleasant to go by a 4-horse coach
(tri-weekly, in 6 hrs., 15s.) from the Wliite Horse
Cellar, in Piccadilly, to Old Ship Hotel, Brighton.
Kly,,li-hr. ; return fares, 17s. 6d., 12s. 6d. Principal
hotels on sea-front : Grand, Bedford, Norfolk,
Royal, Crescent, Albion, Old Ship, MarJcwelFs,,
Queen's, Albemarle, Bristol. Many boarding-houses.
Brighton is London by the sea. The attraction is
the fine sea,-front of 3 M. long. The Brighton
Grand Aquarium is the largest in the world. On
the E. part of the Promenade was the Chain Pier^
now destroyed. The W. Pier is opposite Regency-
Square. Music on the piers. The Royal Pavilion,
begun in 1784 by the Prince of Wales, is now owned
by the town, and used for public balls, etc. Library
and Picture Gallery here. Near are South Downs,
55 M. in length, with a breadth of 4^ M. Tun-
bridgeWens((7a^yer^2// Earls Court; Grand; Sp(^)As
156 SOUTHAMPTON.— WINCHESTER.
a popular inland watering-place, with chalybeate
springs. Bayham Abhey ruins near by. A pleasant
excursion may be made along the South Coast from
Brighton to Portsmtinth {George Hotel ; Bedford;
Sussex), very important; naval station. See the
Dockyards (open 10-12, 1-3); order from Admiralty
obligatory for foreigners. Off the Dockyard lies the
Victory, the old wooden ship in which Nelson died,
Southsea (Queen^s; Esplanade) is a fashionable
watering-place near by. See the Common, the Bier, the
Esplanade, From Portsmouth passengers may em-
bark for the Isle of Wight, Portsmouth is 72 miles
from London (fares, 15s. 6d., 10s. lOd., 6s. 2d.),
Southampton {S. - Western ; Badley''s; Dolphin;
Royal), an important steamship station, 78f M, from
London (fares, 15s. 6d., lis., 6s. 6d.). Boats for the
Channel Islands, Harwich, the Isle of Wight,
America and India. In Blue Anchor Lane is King
John''s Palace, one of the oldest houses in Englano,
Excursion to lovely Netley Abhey, 3 M. (open Mon.,
Tues., Wed., Fri,, and Sat.). You may next go to
Salisbury {Wliite Hart Hotel; Red Lion; Three
Swaiis; Angel), which contains a noble Cathedral^
among the very first in England. It was founded in
1220, and was the first great English church in the
Pointed Style. Exquisite spire, the highest in Eng-
land (404 ft.). Cloisters, Chapter-House, and Nave
very noticeable. Sculptures in Chapter-House from
Old* Testament history. Statue of Sydney Herbert
in the market-place. See Blackmore Museum, Ex-
cursions to Stonehenge, 9 M. N., vast ruins of a
Druidic sanctuary ; Wilton House (3 M.), with fine
paintings; SinA Longford Castle.
Winchester ( Oeorge Hotel; Royal; Black Swan)
is one ot the great historical cities of England. The
Cathedral (1079-1148), 560 ft. long, nave 265 ft., is
the prmcipal attraction. Architecture of Nave very
ENGLAND 157
curious. See JIural Monuments, Font and Chan-
try. In the Central Lady Chapel Queen Mary was
married to Philip of Spain, in 1554. See Castle, and
make excursion to Hospital of St. Cross; admission
6d. Fares to London, 66i M., 13s. lOd., 9s. 9d.,
5s. 6d.
The Isle of Wight may be reached from South-
a,rapton by steamers to Cowes (in | hr.), or to Ryde.
Trains run between R.yde and Ventnor, with branch
to Newport, and between Ryde and Cowes. The Isie
is 22^ Mo long and 14 M. broad. Ventnor and the
Under Cliff are recommended to invalids. In summer
secure rooms in advance. Ryde (Royal Pier; Es-
planade; Marijie) has fine pier, school of art, museum.
It is 12 M. to Ventnor, through delightful scenery.
On the route is Sandown {Sandowti House; Ocean;
York), fashionable resort. Sands and bathing
good. Shankiin {Daish's Hotel; HolUer's) is a
picturesque village. The Chine, near by, is a ro-
mantic ravine. Bonchurch, 11 M. from Ryde, is
very beautiful ; John Sterling is buried here. Ventnor
{Royal; Marine; Queen'' s; Esplanade ; Crah and
Lobster) is much frequented. Fares from London
to Ventnor, 21s. 2d., 15s. Id., lis. Return tickets
(good for 8 days), 35s. 9d., 26s. 6d., 19s. 9d. Near
by are Norris Castle and Osborne House, presented
by the King to the nation for a convalescent home.
Newport is 1 M. from Carisbrooke Castle, a grand
historic ruin.
Bath {Grand Pu?np Room; York; Empire; Pult-
eney) has most sumptuously appointed warm baths in
Europe. It is a city of 53,000 inh., on the Avon, and
once famous as the home of Beau Nash, and the scene
of Miss Austen's novels. See the stately Abbey Ch.
(1499); Beckford's Tower and tomb; the Gruildhall;
and many fine residences and parks. Excursions to
.Prior Park, Lansdoivn Hill, Hampton Down, and
'ruins of Hinton Abbev. From Bath it is 114- M. to
158 BRISTOL. — CARDIFF. —WELLS.
Bristol {Royal Hotel; Grand; George), the capital of
the W. of England, and a very ancient city. It is on
the Avon, 7 M. from the sea. Fine docks at the
river's mouth. See St. Mary RedcUffe Ch., very
lovely ; the Cathedral ^1140), with tombs of Bishop
Butler and Jane Porter, fine cloisters and chapter-
house ; College Gate; the Mayor's Ghapel (1220); Bris-
tol Museum; Glifton, a beautiful suburb; the Sus^mi-
sion Chain Bridge (get the views); Nightingale VaU
ley; and Zoological Gardens. Excursions to Blaise
Castle; and George MuUer's Orphan Asjjlum (2050
children) at Ashley Station.
From Bristol you may cross the BHstol Channel to
Cardiff {Uoyal Hotel ; ParU; Angel), a very important
Welsh port. See Btde Docks; the Castle; and Sophia
Park, ijscursioiis to Caerphilli/ Castle ; Llanda^
(with grand old Cathedral); Llanwit; and St. Bonafs.
From Cardiff you can make an excursion through S.
Wales, and it will richly repay. Fares from Cardiff
to Loudon (170^ M.), 33s. 6d., 25s.; from Bristol to
London (118i;M.), 26s. Id,, 18s. 3d.
Bevonshire is one of the most interesting parts of
England. Tourists can reach Exeter from London in
4-5 hrs. (distance, 171^ M. ; fares, 35s., 25s., 14s. 3^d.).
Or they may go from Bristol to Exeter by "Wells
(Swan Hotel ; Star; Mitre^, which is a perfect eccle-
siastical city, with a moated Bishop's Palace, an em«
battled Beanery^ and a quaint Vicar s Close. The
venerable Cathedral is very rich in sculptures, and in
every way impressive. Superb Chapter-House. (See
local guides.) Glastonbury {George Hotel ; Red
Lion) has a ruined Alihey, one of the earliest centres
of Christianity in England. King Arthur was buried
here. The George Inn was a hostelry for pilgrims in
Edward IV. 's time. This is the ancient Isle of Avalon.
Get Williamson'' s Guide, Is. See St. John's and St.
ENGLAND 159
Benedict's Chs. Exeter (Eougemojif; Clarence; JVeio
London; IIaIf-Moo7i) has gr-dnd CathedraLbnilt 1107-
120o,with interesting chapels, Minstrels' Gallery choir,
close, and far- viewing tower; the Castle, Norman
ruins ; the Elizabethan Guildhall ; Albert Museum.
Plymouth (i)it/ve of Cornwall; ChuhVs; Royal) is rich
fn objects of interest. Seethe Hoe, St. Andrew'' s Ch.j
the Neio Gidldhall, Atherimum, Raglan Barracks, the
Demnport Column. The Eddystone LiglitliO"use is
14 M. from Plymouth ; excursion by steamer, Tor-
quay {Imperial; Royal; Belgrave), is a famous water-
ing-glace. See the Bay, where the Prince of Orange
landed in 1688; Tor Abbey, the Ch., and the Museum.
Beautiful drives and walks. Fares to London (220 M.),
40s. 2d. , 28s . 5d. , 16s. S^d. Get guides of Devon Coast
and Cornwall. Penaance [Queen's Hotel) is 328 M.
from London (fares, 63s. 6d., 44s, 6d., 26s. 6|-d.),
B,outes to the Continemi
Quickest Koutes. — Via Dover and Calais ,* 22 M.
across Channel. To Paris, 283 M.. (fares, £3, £2 5s.).
Day service: leave London 8 a. m.; arrive at Paris
4.30 p. M. Night service : leave London 8.05 p. m.:
reach Paris 6 a. m. — Via Folhestone and Boulogne,
day tidal service : London to Paris, 255 M, ; Channel
passage, 28 M. in 2 hrs. (Fares, £2 16s., £2 2s.; time,
8|- hrs.) There is a cheap night service to Paris via
Boulogne or Calais (fares, 2d class 31s. 6d., 3d class
\ 21s.). Return tickets, express route, via Dover and
1 Calais, or Folkestone and Boulogne, £4 15s., £3 15s.;
by night service, 47s., 31s. 6d. You will pass, by South
{Eastern, Chiselhurst, where Napoleon III. died, and
|where he and his son Louis are buried ; and by Chat-
jham and Dover, you pass Rochester, which has an
jantique Norman Cathedral, with interesting chapels
160 ROCHESTER.-CANTERBU R Y.-DO VER.
and the ruins of a powerful Norman castle, with
beautiful environs, including Dickens's old home,
Oad/s Hill. Just beyond is Chatham, with import-
ant dockyards.
Canterbury {Fountain, County, Flev,r-de-Lys).
The ancient Merceri/ Lane leads to the famous Cathedral,
built 1070-1184, 522 ft. long, with remarkable chapels,
monuments, crypts, cloisters, and a very beautiful an(^
lofty central tower. See ,6'^. AugustAnes College for
missionaries, iu the rains of the ancient abbey. Thomas ^
Becket was killed in the cathedral, and the Black Prince
is buried there. At Folkestone {Pavilion Hotel ;
Grand ; Metropole) the train stops near the steamers.
Dover {Lord Warden Hotel; Dover Castle; Burli7ig-
ton) is worth half a day's stay. The Castle was
nearly destroyed by fire in 1897. The Piers and
Shakespeare's Cliff {v. King Lear) deserve attention.
Routes Longer and Less Expensive. — Via
Newhaoen and Dieppe (day and night boats iu summer,
tidal service). Fares, tickets good for 7 days, 33s.,
34s., 17s. Time, 12-13 hrs. Channel passage, 64 M.
(5|-7 hrs.).^F2(« Southampton and Hacre: Mon.j
Wed., and Fri. (fares, 33s., 24s.). Boats leave South-
ampton at 11.45 P.M. Channel and river passage tc
Havre, 8|-9 hrs.— From London Bridge, across the
Channel to Boulogne. — From Dover to Ostend, for
those going to Belgium. London to Ostend, 37s.
5d., 26s. 7d. Channel passage, 68 M. (4 hrs.).—
From London, via Harwich, to Rotterdam or Antwerp.
Leave London at 8 p. m.; Harwich, 10 p. m. ; reach
Rotterdam 9 a. m, Antwerp boat leaves at same
time ; reaches Antwerp 10 a. m. London to Ant-
werp or Rotterdam, 26s., 21s., 15s. Returns, 40s.,
31s. 6d., 24s. Daily service. — Fvom I-ondon, via
Queensborongh, to Fiushing daily.
NORTHERN FRANCE. 161'
JSrORTHERN FRANCE.
ipHE Ports of Entry in France at which you
•^ may arrive from England are described below,
Calais [Hotel Terminus; Londres ; Sauvage) may
be seen in 2-3 hrs. The Citadel (1560); the Fortes
Roy ale, du Havre, and de la Mer; the old bastion called
Le Courgain, are very curious. The English held Calais
from 1347 to 1558, when France regained possession.
Mary Tudor said the name Calais Avould be found writ-
ten on her heart. The Ch. of Notre Dame, with a pic-
ture by Rubens ; the Hotel de Ville, on the Place
d' Amies ; the old Gtiet Totoer ; and tlie Hotel de Guise
(Tudor style), built by Edward III. and his successors,
are the principal sights. The Hotel Bessin is mentioned in
Sterne's Serdimental Jourfiey. Good sea-bathing in sum-
mer. Erom Calais you may go, via Li'le, to Brussels.
Boulogne {Hotel des Bains ; De la Marine ; Meu-
rice; Continental; de Paris et de Boulogne; Cristol
et Bristol; Louvre) is picturesque town on the Liane,
where it enters the Channel. Fashionable summer re-
sort. Has many English residents. The Quais; the
Pier; the old fishers' town; the ancient Po7'te des
Dunes, with a statue dated 1231 ; the clumsy Cathedral
of Notre Bame ; the Chateau (1230), where Louis Na^
poleon was confined in 1840 ; the Hotel de Ville ; and
the great Sea-Bathinq Ef<tablishment, merit notice.
Le Sage, author of Gil Bias, and Godfrey de Bouillon
were born here. On a hill is the Colonne de la Grande
Armee, built 1804-41. Here Napoleon I. a^semb^-<id
an immense army and fleet for invading England
Dieppe {Boy at, Grand, Utrangers, de Paris, Com-
W2 HAYEE.
mirce) 1^' a summer resort of the fashionable world.
See the Casino, on the beach ; the great Castle (1433);
fche ancient Ch. of St. Jacques, patron saint of fisher-
men ; the piers ; and the Statue of Duquesne. The
bathing is fairly good. A red flag is hoisted when
the tide is favorable. Ruined castle of Arcques,
4 M. S. E. Carved ivory is a specialty of Dieppe.
Havre {Hdtel Frascafi ; Be Bordeaux; Aigle
d'Or; Be Normandie; B Angleterre), once known
as Havre de Grace, from a chapel founded by
Louis XII. in 1509, is one of the most important sea-
ports in Europe, About 100,000 inhab. Immense
American trade. The Docks are remarkable. The
Jetee du Nord commands a fine view. From the hill
of /SYe. Adresse the outlook is charming. The prin-
cipal things to see are : The Ch. of Notre Dame (1575);
the Hotel de Ville ; the Palais de Justice ; the Grand
Treatre ; the Customs Barracks; and the Museum (open
Sun., Tues., and Thurs., from 10 to 4). Bronze
statues (by David) of Bernardin de St. Pierre and
Casimir de la Yigne, natives of Havre. Tlie Jardin
Publique is pretty. Rue de Paris is the finest street.
Steamers w^eekly to New York. (See Chapter on
Travel.) Opposite Havre, in a pretty bend of the
coast (1 hr. by steamer), is Trouville-sur-Mer
{Hotel des Roches Noires, with bathing ; .De Paris;
d'Angleterre; des Bains),with. fine Casino (admission
2 fr.) and beautiful beach. Great number of villas
here and at Beauville. Aristocratic resort in Aug. and
Sept. Near Troii ville is a cliapel in wbicli William the
Conqueror offered prayer before he set out to conquer
England- 1 hr. by rail from Trouville is Honjieur.
Etretat, .nuch frequented by painters, and Fecamp, a
great bathing resort, with a fine Casino, may be vis-
ited from Havre. Eares from Havre to Paris, 28 fr.
10 c, 21 fr. 5 c., 15 fr. 45 c. You may go from Havre to
NORTHERN FRANCE. 183
Kouen by the Seine, a lovely journey, but very slow
(fares, 5 fr., 4 fr.).
Rouen {Hotel d'Angleterre; de France; d'AlMon;
De la Poste; Paris; Lideux) can be visited on the way
to Paris from Havre or Dieppe; the commercial rival
of Havre, a port of much importance; historically and
architecturally one of the most attractive places in
France. This ancient capital of Normandy has great
cotton factories and wine depots. (105,000 inlmb.) The
Cathedral of ISloire Dame is a magnificent Gotiiic edi-
fice, built 1207-80. Tlie central portal on the W.
was erected by Cardinal d'Ainboise, the favorite of
Louis XII., about 1510. Profuse decorations in liorid
style. The Butter Tower {Tour de Beurre) was built
with money got from the sale of indulgences to eat
butter in Lent. This is 230 ft. high, unfinished, like its
twin. The central spire was destroyed by lightning in
1822, and replaced by an ugly cast-iron structure, 465
ft. high. Spiral staircase to the top. The facade (16th
century) contains many remarkable statues and bits of
sculptures. In the venerable Tour St. Roiuain is a
charming 15th-century hall. See the Choir ; the 25
chapels ; the beautiful stained windows, especially the
rose windows in the nave and transepts ; the chaoel S.
of the nave, which contains the tomb of Hollo, the
first Duke of Normandy (927) ; and the chapel oppo-
site, ni M^iicli William of the Long Sword (d. 943) is
buried. In the Ghapelle du Christ, near the High
Altar, is a mutilated limestone figure, 7 ft. high, of
Richard Coeur de Lion. The heart of the great king
is buried in the Choir. Henry II. of England is buried
here. The monument to Due de Breze, erected by
his wife, Diana of Poitiers, mistress of Henri II.
Also one to Cardinal d'Amboise is in this chapel The
r;a£hedral was begun in the reign of Jean sans Terre,
164 ROUEN.
and finished in 1477. Interior is 435 ft. long, lieiglit ot
nave 89| ft., 130 windows.
The beautiful Ch. of St. Ouen is one of the noblest
Gothic structures in Europe. It is cruciform, and dates
from 1318. The portal, between two pyramidal towers,
is extremely graceful. Central Tower, " the Crown of
Normandy," 285 ft. higli. Interior, 443 ft. long by 83
ft. wide. 3 exquisite rose windows; 145 stained-glass
windows. This ch. suffered much from tlie Iconoclasts
(in 1562), as also did the bas-reliefs over the entrance
of the great cathedral. The Ch. of St. Maclou (15th«
16th centuries) has a very fine stone spire, and a foun-
tain by Jean Goujon. Other chs.: Si. Patricia (1535),
magnificent stained glass of the 16th century, and paint-
ings by Mignard and Poussin ; St. Godard, fine mural
paintings ; St. Gervais, with a crypt of the 4th century.
St. Vincent and St. Romain also merit a visit. The
Archiepiscopal Palace (1461) and the Hotel de Ville,
which is a remnant of the old Abbey of St. Ouen, should
be visited (library, 120,000 vols.). In front of the
Hotel de Ville is an equestrian statue of Napoleon I.
Interesting statues of Corneille, Jeanne d'Arc, and G6ri.
cault. Palace of Justice, {concierge shows it, If.) is a
veritable Gothic chef-d''(&uvre. Tlie room in which the
assizes is held has a carved oaken roof, and it was
there that the Parliament of Normandy held ^*ts sessions.
On the 1. of the Courtyard is a great Hall, built in 1493
as a merchants' exchange. It is now the place where
lawyers meet their clients to consult. The Museum
now contains hundreds of pictures by David, Delacroix,
Gericault, Paul Veronese, Poussin, and other celebrated
artists. Visit the Rue de la Grosse Horloge, one of the
most interesting streets in the city. The old clock-
tower, Math a gate beneath, dates from 1527.
The most interesting section of Rouen is tlie Place de
NORTHERN FRANCE. 165
ta PuceUe, where a fountain marks the place on which
Joan of Arc is said to have been burned, in 1431. The
15th-century Hotel du Bourgtheroidde fronts on this
square. Curious decorations on the tower, and bas-
reiiefs, one of which shows the Field of the Cloth of
Gold. In the Rue Jeanne d'Arc is a Tower (built
1205), subsequently named after the maid, and sup-
posed to have been her prison. The Museum of An-
tiquities and the Museum of Natural History are in an
old convent near the Place Beauvoisine. The town
is rich in old houses with timber-fronts.
The Seine here is a large river, navigable for most
ships, and bordered by fine quays. The Coiu's Bdiel'
dieu has a statue of Boieldieu, the composer, a native
of Rouen. The Seine is crossed by a bridge, adorned
with a Statue of Corneille ; and by a suspension bridge,
at whose end is a Monument to the Abbe de la Salle.
The surrounding country is extremely beautiful.
Climb tlie adjacent lulls, especially to the Pilgrimage
Ch. of Bon-Secours, 2 M. out. Dehglitful view over
Normandy. The service in the ch. is peculiar. Many
pretty excursions by steamer on the Seine. Visit
the Chateau of Robert le Liable, near La Bouille.
From Rouen to Paris the fares are 16 fr. 75 c, 12| fr.,
9 fr. 20 c. Rouen may be easily visited in a day from
Paris (fares, 16| fr., 12. | fr., 9 fr. 20 c), returning in the
afternoon. At Mantes — called "beautiful Mantes" —
is the Gothic Ch. of Notre Dame, of the 12th century,
richly sculptured. Junction here for Caen and Cher-
bourg. Farther on is Poissy, the birthplace of St.
Louis, a lovely town on the Seine, and a favorite resort
of artists (great prison here) ; the Forest of St. Germain^
through which the line passes ; Colombes ; St. Germaifi,
with its palace, may be seen on the r. ; and Asnieres, a
Varisian suburb, inhabited by commercial people.
166 AMIENS. — ABBEVILLE. — AEKAb,
Amiens {Hotel de V Unimrs / Du Rhin) is a great
Snanufacturiiiii' tov/n (80,000 inhab,), once the capital
of Picardy. See Gothic Cathedral, erected 1220-88,
and one of tlie finest in Europe. The spire (422 ft.
Iiigh) was restored in 1529. The W. fayade is one of
the most beautiful that can be imagined. The 2 towers
are decorated with many statues and medallions. In
i\\Q Porche du Sauveur is a magnificent statue of Christ,
commonly called Le Beau Bleu d' Amiens. Eew cathe-
dral interiors excite such lively admiration for pro-
digious vaults, lightness of the colunrns, and astonishing
variety of lines. The nave is 147 ft. high, and 126
columns support its airy vaulting. See organ gallery
(1422); 110 stalls in the choir, with 3,650 figures;
superb rose-window ; stained-glass windows ; and the
great number of monuments and chapels. The choir-
wall is adorned with reliefs from the history of John
the Baptist and the life of St. rirmin. Length of the
cathedral, 469 ft.; of transept, 213 ft.; width of nave,
144 ft.; towers, 181 ft. and 210 ft. In the rear is a
statue of Peter the Hermit, a native of Amiens, who
preached the Pirst Crusade. The Picardy Mmeum con-
tains interesting pictures. The new Palace of Justice^
and the Prefecture, which has a 15th-century belhtower,
should be seen. About midway between Amiens and
Boulogne is Abbeville, which contains many odd 15tb
and 16th century houses ; also the Gh. of St. Vulfran, and
a statue to the composer Lesueur. Pares from Amiens
to Paris, 16 fr. 10 c, 12 fr. 10 c, 8 fr. 85 c. Rly. connec-
tion from Amiens with Arras, Douai, and Lille.
Arras {Hotel de V Univers ; Gomrnerce) has a double
line of fortifications ; a citadel constructed by Vauban
in 1670; and a cathedral, which was the old Ch. of the
Abbey of St, Vaast. Within it are seen fine pictures
attributed to Rubens and Van Dyck; and the treasury
NORTHERN FRANCE. 167
contains the robe that Thomas a Beclcet wore when he
was assassinated. The great square of Arras is a fine
ilhistration of the pictorial style which prevailed during
the Spanish domination. Miisetim and Public Library.
The coast line of N. France is dotted with pleasant
summer-resorts and picturesque towns, old and new.
From Paris to Cherbourg (fares, 45 fr. 70 c, 34 fr. 25 c,
25 fr. 10 c), via Caen, is a journey through the inter-
esting Norman towns of Evreux (fine cathedral, 11th
century, restored in the 18th) ; Lisieux (cathedral^
1136-1233, in which Henri II. was married, 1152)';
and Caen {Hotel d' Angleterre ; IfEspagne), population
41,181, the town of which Madame de Sevigne said
tiiat it was the source " de lous nos plus beaux esprits."
View from the heights very imposing. See St. Etienne
and Trinite Chs. ; the G/idteau, founded by William
the Conqueror ; the Hotel de Ville, decorated with
medalUons of celebrated Normans ; the Museum (400
paintings) ; the Academy ; the Hotel de Valois / and
the Place de la Repuhlique. You can reach Caen
from Havre by steamer (6 fr.7 5 fr.), and go thence
to Cherbourg ; and thence up to Paris, if de-
sired. Cherbourg y^Hotel de France; de VAviiraute
et de V Europe), a city of 37,000 inliab., on die peninsula
of Cotentin, is the first military port in France, and a
very important fortress. There is little to see beside
the docks and fortifications ; and, in the Museum, a
portrait of Leonardo da Yinci, painted by himself.
Fine casino. Granville, farther down on the coast, is
the port whence the steamers sail for the Channel
Islands. Fares from Paris to Granville, 46 fr. 40 c,
36 fr. 30 c., 22 fr. 20 c. Still farther down is Mt. Saint
Michel, an imposing granite rock, 2,700 ft. around
and nearly 200 ft. high, connected with the coast by a
dike. The sea surrounds it '< ' hisrh tide. The rock is
168 PARIS.
surmounted by immense fortifications, an abbey, an(f i,
ch., with a statue of St. Michael. Pilgrimages have
been made here since Louis XI. created St. Micaael's
Order, in 1469. St. Malo, near by, was the birth-
place of Chateaubriand, and Jacques Cartier, the
pioneer in Canada. Dinan is a pretty little town, with
old walls and a 15th-century castle. Great numbers of
English people winter here. Dinarcl, 4 M. from St.
Malo, has a fine bathing establishment. The line to Brest
is close by. Brest, population 66,000, is a military
port and fortress. Vast marine hospital, and barracks.
Formidable batteries. Eares, Brest to Paris, 75 fr. 10 c,
56 fr. 35 c, 41 fr. 35 c. On the way see Chartres
{^Hotel de France; J)u Grand Monarque), an ancient
city, with celebrated Cathedral, the towers of which
can be seen for 25 M, Upon this noble Gothic ch.,
which was 160 years in building, there are many thou- '
sands of statues ; there are 50 bas-reliefs in the choir,
and marvellous stained windows of the 12th and 13th
centuries. Henri IV. was consecrated in this ch. in
1594. 2 spires, one 371 ft., the other 340 ft. high.
There is a Black Virgin here, much adored. The Crypt
is beautiful. Many odd 13th-century houses here.
Gen. Marceau was a native of Chartres. The MuseuTi,
contains a noted picture representing his funeral.
Paris.
Paris, with the exception of the old sections, is a
very easy city in which to find one's way about. In
summer street-merchants are always at your elbow
with very good maps, "with which you can explore the
capital, even if you know no French. If you arrive at
the Gnre du Nord (N. Rly. stat.), and are not encum-
bered with baggage, walk dowii^the Rue at Lafayette
PAEIS. 169
to the Grand Opera and the Bouleva-fd Haiissmann ;
then turn up the Rue Scribe to the main boulevards,
and you will find yourself in the centre of Paris.
If you come in from Normandy, you will arrive at
the Oare St. Lazare, but a short walk from the boule-
vards. In the Stat, your baggage is examined both
for general customs and octroi duties. Spirits and
cigars are the only things about which the officers
are strict. A porter will take your trunk or valises,
call a cab, install you in it, give you a little card with
the cab's number on it, and for this expects about
50 c. (10 cts.). If you have a party, and several large
trunks, charter a small private omnibus (always
plenty). One that will hold 6 persons costs 6 f r. , and
no extra charge is made for a reasonable amount of
baggage. Driver expects fee.
Cabs ( Voitures) — The cab system of Paris is simple
and covenient. From 6 a.m. until 12.30 p.m. a 1-horse
open or closed carriage for 2 persons costs, according to
legally established tariff, l-^-f r. for single drive ; gvsi-
tuitj (pourboire), rendered obligatory by custom, 25c. ;
by hr., 2fr. Prom 12.30 night until 6 a.m. the tariflp
is for 2 -seated cabs, 2Jfr, per drive, 2iti\ per hr. ; 4-
seated, 2^tr. per drive, 2ffr. per hr. The whole of a
first hr. (when you engage by the hr.) must always
be paid ; ^ hrs. thereafter, 50c. each. Baggage (out-
side), 25c. per piece. Livery-stable rates per day and
per month for carriages are rather high from May to
Aug ; with a little care a good open carriage for two
(driver in livery) may be had for 25-30ir. per day;
gratuity to driver.
The taximeter is now in almost universal use. The
charges are: For 1200 metres, or 9 min., 75c. ; every
additional 400 metres, or 3 min., 10c. ; for passing the
fortifications, 50c.; leaving cab outside fortifications,
If r. For night service (after midnight) there is an ad-
ditional charge of 50c. Tip driver at rate of 50c. per
nr., but never less tlian }ioc. lor any uiive or uistauce.
170 PARIS
Street-Cars (called tramways) run on most of the great
tlioroughfares, except the grand boulevards. 'L'hej aie double.
decked; the large ones are very tine. Go to the suburbs
upon them rathe^r than by rail or in private carriage. Om-
nibuses abound ; there are 32 liues. A full fare paid on
®nc procures you. a corrfsjiondance gratis on another,, imtii
you have reatdicd your destination. Fares inside, 30 c. ;
above, outside, 15 c. On some streets the tramway cars are
moved by steam. On the Seine there are a great many
small steamers., fnjlpfi mnnaJip.'^ •i\wi[ himnrlpHes, "flies" and
"*■ swallows." TMe Metropolitan underground rlyo is con=
venient. The Ccintxire is the name of the railv/ay which
runs around Paris, within the walls (23 M.)„ It is usefui
for giving a good idea of the capital 's geography. Round
trip in two hours.
Hotels.— ITo^eZ d'lena, Astoria, Place de I'Etoile;
Hotel Bitz, Hotel Bristol, Place Vendome, both expen-
sive, aristocratic ; Elysee Palace ; Hotel Continental; Cos-
tiglione, Ruede Castiglione; Montana, Ruede i'Echelle;
Voiiillemont ; Hotel du Louvre, Rue de Rivoli ; Grand Hotel,
Boulevard des Capucines; Terminus, Gare St. Lazare;
Vendome, Place Yendome; Regina, Meurice, Windsor,
Brighton, Rue de Rivoli; Grand Hotel St. James, de Lille
ei d''Anbion, de Normandie, Rue St. Honore; Westvni'Jister,,
Miraheau, Splendide, Rue de la Paix; de Londres, Domi'
nici, Liverpool, Rue Castiglione; Chatham, de VEmpiy^e,
de VAmiraute, d^Orient, Rue Daunou (Rue Neuve St. Au.
gustin); Normandy, des Deux Mondes, and Binda, in the^
Avenue de I'Opera; du Palais, Cours La Reine; d^JLlbe,
Avenue de I'Alma; de St. Petershourg, Rue Caumartin;
de VAthenee, Rue Scribe ; de Bade, Boulevard des ItaL
iens ; de la Terrasse Jouffroy, Boulevard Montmartre ; de
Baviere, Rue du Conservatoire ; des Amhassadeurs, Rue
de Lille ; de Londres, Rue Bonapartej du Senat, Rue de
Tournon. More modest hotels ai'e Hotel d'' Oxford et de
Camhridge; de la Tamise, Rue d'Alger; de la Couronne, Rue
du Dauphin; Trots Princes, Rue Neuve des Petits Champs;
d'Antin, Rue d' Antin; Helder, Rue du Helder; Byron, Rue
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PABIS. 171
Laffitte ; Du Canada, Rue de Choiseul ; De France, Rue
de Beaune ; Des Etrangcrs, Rue Racine.
Boarding-Houses (or Pensimis) .—Ot these there
are many. Prices, 10-15 francs daily. We give the ad-
dresses of a few : Madame Barbier, 42 Quai des Orffevres;
Madame Russell, 6 Square de l'0p6ra; M. and Mme.
Pincet, 35 Rue Cambon ; Mrs. Defone, 52Ms Boulevard
Haussmann ; Prof. Tonnst, same address ; Mme. Starck,
30 Rue Bassano ; Hotel Campbell, 61 Avenue de Fried-
land ; American Pension, 7 Avenue du Trocadero ; the
Misses McDonnell, 90 Rue de la Pompe ; Hotel Dijon, 39
Rue 0«^jmartin. Furnished single rooms can be had in
all quarters of Paris, at from 40 to 135 francs per month.
Furnished suites of rooms (in French, apartcnient signi-
fies a sai^e) from 250 francs per month upwards. Always
inquire particularly aboiit extras, even in the best pen-
sions, otherwise you may be surprised when the bill is
presented. ^
Restaurants and Cafes.— Cafe de Londres, Boulevard
Madeleine, 25 ; Cafe Anglais, 13 Boulevard des Italiens ;
Cafe Biche, 16 same street ; Maison Doree, 20 same street;
Vidal, 41 Avenue de I'Opera; Noel Peters, Passage des
Princes; J5reba?xt, 31 Boulevard Poissonnifere; d%la Terrace,
30 Boulevard Bonne Nouvelle; BonvaleVs, Boulevard du
Temple ,* Cafe de la Palx, near the Grand Opera ; Maire,
14 Boulevard St. Denis ; Cafe de Paris, 41 Avenue de
I'Opera ; Moka, 44 and 46 Avenue Wagram ; Gaillon, Place
Gaillon ; Restaurant de France, 9 Boulevari Poissonnifere ;
Restaurant des Amhassadeurs, in the Charaps Elysees;
Champeaux^o Place de la Bourse ; Durand, 2 Place de la
Madeleine ; Magny, 3 Rue Muzet ; Foyot, 33 Rue de Tour-
non; Restattrant de la Porte-Doree, Avenue Daumesnil.
275; CampelVs, 370 Rue St.-Honore. These are all d la
carte. Som^ of these places are rather expensive ; the
others more moderate. In the Palais Royal and the
Passage des Panoramas, and on the Boulevard Mont-
martre, are several restaurants where breakfasts and
dinners at fixed prices may be had. At the Diner de
Paris, 13 Boulevard Montmartre, breakfast is 3 f r. ; dinner,
172 PARIS
5 f r. Wine is always included in fixed-price dinners.
I'lie Diner Europeen is very good : breakfast, 3 fr f
dinner, 5 f r. In the Palais Royal there aremumerou<i
restaurants that give breakfast at 1 f^. ,75 c. ; dinner,
2 fr, 25 c. to 2 f r. 50 c. The Duval Restaurants, or
Etablissements de Bouillon, are peculiar. There is
but a limited choice of dishes, but everything is well
prepai'ed and moderately cheap. The Parisians break-
fast 10.30-1, and dine 6-8. We calinot mention one
third of the principal cafes, but will recomm'end the
Cafe Anglais, Tortoni^ Q-rand, Arrnvmaiyi, HeWjer^
Madrid, Riche, Varietes, De Paris, NavoUtain. In the
Bois. restaurants : Pamlloii d' Armenonville, la Ot^cade,
Madrid. Ladies with escorts m&y visit most ,of the
cafes mentioned above, even in the evening.
General Information. — The Ambassador of the
United States is the Hon. Robert Ba&on,; the Secre-
tary of Embassy is Mr. Arthur BaQlv Blanchard.
The present Consul-Geaeral at Paris Ifs Mr. Frank
Mason. American church serviees : Rue de Berrry,
31; Avenue de lAlma, 19 (Episcbpal).
The Latin (Quarter, S. of the Seine, has for centuries beeu
devoted to universities, colleges, and schools of all kinds.
Many thousands of students reside there alMhe time. The
Students' Ball, called the Chserle des LUas,^t Bullier, is at
the Carvi'four de V Ohservatoire. ^
There are three principal race meetings in Paris, in April,
May, and September. The spectacle in the Bois de Boulogne
when the Grand Frix (the principal summer race) is run,
should not be missed. The principal prize is 100,000 fr.
We would suggest that yoa start from the Place de
la Concorde, walk up the Rue Roy ale to tlie Cli. of the
Madeleine (Magdalen), and then follow the line of
the grands boulevards to tlie Place de la Bastille.
You may go on an omnibus-top for S sous, or in an opcB
carriage for 1 fr. 75c. ; but we say walk.
PARIS 173
Boik,^vard des Capucines (this is mid -Paris;
here are the Grand Hotel, the Opera, the Grand'
Cafe, the Jockey Club, and the Bue Scribe) ;
Des lialiens (ji^lliant with theatres and restaurants) ;
Montmartre (splendid cafes and shops) ; Poissoniere ;
Bonne-Nouvelle ; St. Denis (see the old city gates,
\^ery fine}; St. Martin ; J)u Temple ; Des Fille's du CaU
vaire ; ^Beaumarchms, — and you are at the Bastille,
i. e. th^quare' wliere the celebrated prison stood.
Whole lengtW" tijis'hne of streets, 2f M. Return by
the Rue SfAntoine, and the Rue de Rivoli, past
the Tii^ieries, to the Place de la Concorde, whence yon
started.^ The exteriot boulevards run from near the
Arc de TrjomphAat the Ternes, around to the quays
of Bercy on thj^SSeine, through La Yillette and Belle-
ville, the W(di1^^yij.% quarters. Tramways here. The
Boulevard's^'dit^Strasbourg, Sebastopol, Du Palais, and
St. ]\(y^li'eWorm a coni^uous avenue from the Eastern
Rly. st^t. across tlieAity to the Observatory. A walk
from "one end to H^e other is extremely interesting.
A Jv;isit to one of'' tile "cabarets artistiques," which
hiive reeent^i^pru^ig up in Montmartre. is well
worth whili^^ee description in "Paris-Parisien,"
an excelienr^kide to these and other noteworthy
sights -dlfParisr^fc
Th.Q Iste de la Cite on which Paris began, should
have an early visit. Notre Dame, the cathedral of the
Archbishop of Paris, was built in 1163-82, on the site
of a 4th-century ch. It is 417 ft. long, 156 wide, and
110 high. Twin lowers, 264 ft The fa9ade (13th
century) ,> with its rich Gothic sculptures and crowds
of statuary over the portals, is very imposing. The
carvings over the central entrance represent the Lasi
174 NOTRE DAME-PALACE DE JUSTICE
Judgment. Entrance by 1. portal. In the Revolu-
tion, in 1793 the ch. was converted into a " Temple
of Reason." During the Commune it v/as a military
depot. Most of the sculptures were broken at the
time of the Revolution. Choir completed, 12th cen-
tury ; W. portion, in 13th, The interior, with its nav&
and double aisles, is majestic. Many famous prelates
are buried in the choir-chapels. 75 pillars support
the vaulting. Splendid rose-windows in fh^ transept.
37 chapels. Fine pulpit, by VioUet-le-Duc, in the nave.
The Treasury (fee, \h?) may be inspected. The robei
in which Archbishop Darboy was shot by the Com,,
munists is shown. To ascend the towers (fee, 20c.)j
go round to N . side of 1. front tower, and ring the bell.
In the S. tower is the huge Bourdon bell. Note the
curiously carved figures of men and animals on the roof.
The effect of the flying buttresses below is very strik*
ing. See Victor Hugo's Notre' Dame de Paris, for an
eloquent description of the cathedral. The view from
the towers is the best in Paris. In a bright summer-day
it IS bewildering, from its very vastness. Just behind
Notre Dame is the Morgue, or Dead House, m'\\qtq you
may view unclaimed bodies. It is open to the pubhc.
Prom the cathedral's top observe the new Hotel Dieu^
an immense hospital ; the Fontaiyie Notre Dante, the
Place du Parois, and the Flower Market. The old Ho-
tel Dieu (660) has been demolished.
While you are in the Cite, go to see the Palais de
Justice (magnificent new additions) ; and the prison
of the Conciergerie,yvh.QYQ Marie Antoinette and so man^?
other victims of the Revolution were imprisoned.
The, Palais de Justice is open daily, except Sundays ;
and here most of the Courts of Justice may be visited
(guide, 1-2 fr.). The Cour d'Honneur is very fine*
The great Salle des Pas-Perdus, 255 ft. long, is whera
PARIS. 175
mystery-plays were performed. See Hugo's Noire
Dame. The Sainte Chapeile (open daily 12-4, except
Mon. and Eri.) is a nobly beautiful specimen of Gothic
(1245-4S). Note the magnificent stained glass filling
the sides of the Upper Chapel. The Mass of the Holy,
Ghost is celebrated here once a year. Opposite the'
Palais de Justice is the Tribunal de Commerce, a beauti-
ful Renaissance building, IS 60-66 (open daily). Ob-
serve the old Clock Tower of the Palais de Justice, one of
the few remnants of the original edifice. See the Place
Daiq^hine, and the equestrian Slatue of Henri IV. near
by. Good view of the Louvre from the Pont Neuf.
Churches of Interest. — The Pantheon (1764-
90), on high ground, on the spot where Genevieve, the
patron saint of Paris, was buried in 512. The Con-
stituent Assembly made a Pantheon out of it ; and the
Catholics never permanently regained their place of
worship. Inscription on pediment: Aux grands hommes
la patrie reconnaissante. Noble dome (272 ft.) ; ascend
it for view. Interior decoration of dome, by Gros, fine.
Portico of 22 Corinthian columns, 81 ft. high. Small
fee for admission to crypts, where are the tombs of
Voltaire, Rousseau, Lannes, Bougainville, and other
noted men. t<t. Etienne du Mont (1 51 7) near the Panthe-
on, has some matchless stained glass of the IGtli cen-
tury. The Polytechnic School is in the rear. St. Ger-.
main 1' Auxerrois is opposite the Louvre front. From
its belfry the signal for the massacre of St. Bartholomew
was sounded. Note the oval arches of tiie porch (1435).
Eayade 15th and 16th centuries, Rich modern frescos
and interesting chapels inside. 5'/. Germain des Pres
is on Rue Bonaparte ; built 1001-1163, as the ch. of a
powerful abbe-/. Inside are admirable and extensive
frescos by the celebrated Plandrin ; ancient monu-
ments in choir and nave. St. Eustache is near thtj
176 THE MADELEINE.
Halles Centrales (1532-1637) ; Gothic, with Greuan
W. front. Interior beautifully decorated. Suftered
much damage in the Commune, when it was used as a
" Club." Remarkable marbles. St. Roch, on Rue
St. Honore. Exterior plain, interior rich ; famous
music. Here Napoleon I. planted his cannon, anci
blew the French Revolution into space ; vide Carlyle.
— Notre Dame de Lorette, Rue de Cliateaudun, is the
ch. that Thiers was buried from. The Trinile, Place
of same name ; new (1867), very elegant and rich.
St. Vincent de Paul, Rue de Lafayette. — The brilham
new Rusua'ri Ch., near the Pare de Monceaux. Inter,
esting service here. The Val de Grace, Rue St. Jacques,
wonderfully decorated with paintings by Mignard
St. Sulpice, S. of the Seine, a vast and richly decorate>Dt
ch., with towers 230 ft. high, and statues of Sts. Petei
and Paid, La Sorbonne, adjoining the great university,
contains the Tomb of Cardinal Richelieu.
The Madeleine, the most beautiful edifice in Paria,
is in the style of a Greek temple, 330 ft. long, 130 wide,
and 100 high, surrounded by Corinthian columns. In the
colonnade are niches containing figures of saints. Cou-
ture contributed to the designs. The pediment, 120 X
25, represents the Last J udgment. The bronze doors
are subjects from the Old Testament. On Grand
Altar, tlie Assumption, in white marble ; and painting
of Magdalen at the feet of Christ. Plower-market on
each side of the cli., Tues. and Fri. Very fine music.
Sun. St. Augustin, Boulevard Malesherbes, contains
many fine pamtiugs. — The Chapelle Expiaioire, Rue
d'Anjou, is to the memory of Louis XVI. and his
Queen, and other victims of the Revolution. The
Dew Ste. Clotilde, Place Bellechasse, and St. Pierre
de Montmartre, are worth seeing. Notre Daine de
Bonnes Nouvelles, on the summit of Montmartre, is a
new church and one of the larijest in Paris.
PARIS. 177
The Palaces. — The best place from which to see
the imposing front of the Louvre is the park before
St, Germain. The Colonnade was constructed in 1685,
on the E. fafade. The central portion of this front
is known as the Pavilion Henri Quutre. See statues
of Napoleon I.'s generals on the Rohan Pavilion. The
interior courtjard is an architectural marvel. See
the 86 colossal statues of illustrious Frenchmen in the
Square du Louvre. The entrance to the Museums,
which are among the richest and most remarkable in
Europe, is through a door on the 1., coming from the
Cour du Louvre, under the Sully Pavilion, and through
the Pavilion Denon, in the middle of the N. fafade of
the building erected by Napoleon III, Collections
open, free, daily, except Mon., in summer, 9-5 ; in
tvdnter, 10-4. A few of the sculpture rooms and col-
lections of antiquities are not opened until 1 p.m.
Guides 2 fr. an lir., but the catalogues will enable
most visitors to find their way about. The Venus
of Milo, the Felterecl Slaves of Michael Angelo, the
Mona Lisa of Leonardo da Vinci, and a noble group
of the works of llaphael, Titian, and Yeronese are
the chief treasures. Li one gallery tliere are 21 large
pictures by Rubens. . The Salon Carre contains the
most striking works of art. Tliere are 2,000 paintings
in the Louvre. See the Apollo Gallery (Henri IV.),
with plafond by Delacroix. The Marine and Chiiiese
Museums should not be omitted. The Palace of the
Tuileries, begun in 1564 by Philibert de Lorme for
Catherine de Medicis, is now gone, the site being
a garden. It was almost entirely destroyed during
the Communal insurrection of 1871 The wdiole front
w^as so utterly ruined that restoration was considered
out of the question. The Pavilion de Flore and the
GaUery on the Seine bank unite the Louvre with the
178 PALAIS DU LUXEMBOURG.
Tuileries. Eine sculptures by Cavelier and Carpeaux,
The courtyard is tiie Place du Carrousel. It takes its
name from a carousal, or ball, lield there by Louis XIV,
in 1662. The Triumphal Arch which stands here is an
imitation of the Arch of Severus at Rome, and was
erected by Napoleon I. to commemorate his victories
of 1805-6. It was originally crowned with the horses
taken from the portal of St. Mark's Ch. in Venice,
font these were sent back to Italy by the Emperor Eran-
cis in 1814. Bonaparte, when French Consul, lived
there ; and Louis XVIIL, Charles X., Louis Phi-
lippe, and Napoleon III. made it their home. Read
Carlyle's account of the attack on the Tuileries by a
mob of 40,000 rioters in 1792. In front is the Tuile-
ries Garden, 2,340 ft. long, vrhich extends to the
Place de la Concorde, and in summer is a delightful
resort thronged with people. Military music twice a
week in summer. The Terrasse des Feuillants, on
the N. side, is a pleasant promenade.
The Palais du Luxembourg was built 1615-20^^'
and enlarged in 1804. It was once a royal habitation,
a prison during the Revolution, the palace of the-.
Directory and the Consulate, and is now the meet-
ing-place of the Senate of the Republic. Chapel and
museum open daily (except Mon.), 10-4. The Little
Luxembourg , supposed to have been built by Marie de
Medicis, is near by. The collections were (until 1875)
next in importance to the Louvre. The Luxembourg-
Museum was long the halting-place for pictures of dis*
tinguished native artists. Galleries of paintings open
daily (Mon. excepted), 9-5 in summer; Sun., and Eri.,
10-4. In the garden, where m.ilitary music is played
on Sun., Tues., and Thurs. afternoons, there is a fine
fountain, and statues of celebrated Erenchwomen.
The Palais Royal is always interesting to strangers.
PARIS. 179
It was built 1625-34 for Cardinal Richelieu. The
famous galleries, which now form such a charming
promenade, and are filled Avitli attractive shops, were
built by Philippe-Egalite. The Theatre of the ComSdie
Frangaise is adjacent to the palace. It was destroyed
by fire on March 8, 1900, but has been rebuilt.
The 'Palais de I'Elysee, having facades on the
Faubourg St. Honore and the Champs Elysees, is at
present the residence of the President of the Repubhc.
It was built in 171S, and restored under Napoleon I.
Fine old garden on the Cbamps-Elysees side. The
Palais Bourbon, in which the Corps Legislatif held
its sessions under Napoleon III., was built for the
Duchess of Bourbon in 1722. Fine peristyle 'fronting
on the Seine, with 12 Corinthian columns and flight
of steps decorated with colossal statues. The Hotel
dela Presidence is near by. The Palais d'Orsay was
partly destroyed in May, 1871.
The two Palaces of Fine Arts, the Gravid
Palais and the Petit Palais, occupy the triangle
between the Champs Elysees and the Seine, where
formerly v.^as the Palais de Vlndustrie. This was
used for the first international exhibition in Paris in
1855, and since then until its demolition the annual
Salon was held there. Here also is the approach to
the handsome Pont Alexandre III., the memorial
stone of which was laid by the Tsar Nicholas II., in
1896. In the Avenue Montaigne is the Palais Pom-
peien, built for Prince Napoleon after the one of
Diomed at Pompeii. Admission 1-2 fr.
The Palace of the Institute, on the site of the oli
Hotel de Nesle, was completed in 1662. It is an odd
structure, with a Corinthian porch adorned with figures
of lions and with fountains. During the Revolution
it was a prison. The academy holds its sessions
here. The annual meeting of the five departments
180 BOIS DE BOULOGNE
Bombined is held in Aug. in the Great Hall. 2 fine
libraries. The Mazarine Library (200,000 vols.) is
open to the public 10-4 (except Sun.).
The Palais des Beaux-Arts, in the Rne Bonaparte,
Is the seat of the School of the Pine Arts, founded in
1648 (open daily, 10-4; fee, 1 fr.). On the railing
which separates the court from the Rue Bonaparte are
colossal busts of Puget and Poussin. Near the Inva-
Udes, in Hue de Grenelle, is the Archbishop's Palace.
The quaint mediseval Hotel de Cluny (founded
about 1500), Hue du Sommerard, contains about 4,000
objects in marble, wood, stone, ivorj; enamels, terra-
cotta, prints, stained glass, pottery, etc. (catalogue at
the door). The old Palais des Thermes, which fronts
on the Boulevard St. Michel, was built by Constantius
Chlorus and by Julian the Apostate, who has left on
record his predilection for spending part of his time in
his " dearLutetia" (open daily, 11-4.30). The Musee
Mmiicipal, at the Hotel Carnavalet, Rue Sevigne, can
be visited with an order. A library of 45,000 vols.,
composed of works relative to the history of the city of
Paris, is here. " The interesting Artillery Museum is at
the Hotel des Invalides (open Tues., Tl^urs., and Sun.
in summer, 12-3). The Mint Museum, on the Quai
Conti, may be visited Tues. and Pri. (12-3), by order.
Parks and Gardens. — The Bois de Boulogne
is the cliief park of the French capital, and comprises
a tract of about 2,250 acres, of which 70 are artificial
lakes, just opposite the fortifications, and extending
along the banks of the Seine. The Bois is connected
with the Champs Elysees by several magnificent ave-
nues ; and the principal one, the Avenue du Bois de
Boulogne, is 4,200 ft. long and 315 ft. wide. The
drive Around the Lake is the rendezvous of the fashion
of the capital, in winter from 3 to 5 o'clock, and of
PARIS. 181
strangers from all parts of tlie world in summer from
5-8 o'clock. The Cascade; the Field of Longchamps,
on which races and reviews are held; the Jardin
d'Acdimatation (zoological gardens) ; Model Dairy,
Pre Catalan; the AUee des Acacias, through the cen-
tre of this park; the pretty suburbs of Passy and
Auteuil; and the towns of Boulogne, Suresnes and
St. Cloud, are the principal objects of interest.
E. of Paris is the Bois de Vincennes, a vast
woody tract, which furnishes a delightful breathing-
place for the Parisians. The Chateau (open Sat.,
12-4, by order from Commandant) was built in 1164,
and is a strong fortress, containing barracks and
arsenal and a military school. There is a monument
to the Due d'Enghien; and from the Donjon, a
a square tower 190 feet high, a fine view may be
enjoyed. The chapel was founded in 1379.
The Buttes Chaumont is a picturesque park of
55 acres, in the Belleville quarter. In the centre
is an island bearing a reproduction of the Temple
of the Sibyl at Tivoli. G-reat battle near here on
the 30th of May, 1814. The Pare de Monceaux
may be entered from the Rue de Courcelles. It
covers 18 acres, and is surrounded by magnificent
residences of wealthy Parisians. Great numbers of
Communists were executed here at the close of the
insurrection.
The Champs-Elysees is a world-famous prome-
nade. The illumination on the 14th of July (national
fete) is a superb spectacle. Most of the Cafe-Concerts
of importance have summer theatres here.
The Jardin des Plantes, easily reached by omni-
bus or by river steamboat, is open daily, 10 till dark.
The fine Menagerie is open daily in summer, 10-5 ; the
Galleries, containing the collections, Tues. and Sun.
afternoons; library daily, 10-3. Botanic Garden
here, one of the pleasantest promenades in the city.
182 JULY COLUMN. -ARC DE TRIOMPHE,
I!
The Place de la Concorde, one of the finest squares
in the world, is a good starting-point for any excursion
about Paris. In the centre is the Ohelisic of Luxor,
given to Louis Philippe by the Pasha of Egypt. It is
76 ft. high, and weighs 840 tons. On either side is a
handsome fountain. Arranged about the Place are
8 stone figures, representing the chief towns of France,
On the statue of Strasbourg the visitor may generally
observe a mourning wreath. The Germans bivouacked
here in 1871. In 1792-99, 3,000 people perished here
on the guillotine', Louis XVI. was executed near
central gate of.Tuileries garden. The P/ace de la
Bastille has in its centre the July Column, 153 ft.
high, with figure of Libertv See Place dti Chateau
d''Eau, Place du Cliatelet, Place Louvois, and Place
Dawphine. On the Place du Pont St. Michel there is a
fine fountain, with a bronze statue of Michael over-
coming the Dragon. On the Place St. Georges stands
the house in which Thiers lived during the latter years
of his life. In the centre of the Place de VEtoile, at the
top of the Champs-Elysees, stands the noble Arc de
Triomphe de I'Etoile, begun in 1806 by Napoleon I.,
and finished in Louis Philippe's reign, at a cost of
$2,000,000. The structure is 160 ft. high, 146 ft, wide,
and 72 ft. deep. The vast arch is 67 ft. high and 46 ft.
wide. On the side are groups representing the Napo-
leonic campaigns. Names of nearly 150 battles appear
on the vault. Spiral staircase of 26 1 steps to platform at
top, whence a grand view. From the Triumphal Arch
to the Porte Maillot runs the Ave. de la Grande Armee.
In the Place Vendome is a column 140 ft. high,
surmounted by a statue of Napoleon L, in costume of
a Cassar. The column, pulled down by communists in
1871, .was made of cannon taken from the Aus-
trians. Notice curious heads over the houses round
PARIS. 183
the Square. The Place Lotivois, near the National
Library ; the Place cle la Bourse, where stands the
Bourse, or Exchange (from a gallery in which visitors
can notice the curious financial crush from 12 to 3) ;
the Square Montholon, on the Rue Lafayette ; the
Esplanade, in front of the Livalides; the Champs de
Mars, where four great exhibitions have been held,
and where the celebrated EiiTel Tower (984 ft. in
height) is located; the Trocadero Gardens, now crowned
with a superb palace used for historical collections and
for musical concerts ; the Place Glichy, at the head of
the street of the same name ; and the Place de la Nation^
should not be forgotten by the visitor. The Place de
Greve, where the stake and the scaffold were erected so
often in the 15th and 16th centuries, is now called the
Place de r Hotel de Ville ; and directly in the rear of it
is the new City Hall, a magnificent structure, erected
on tlie ruins of the one burned to the ground by the
Comnmnists, May 24, 1871. With the old building,
1533-1628, a library of lv)0,000 vols, was consumed.
The new Hotel de Ville is ornamented with hundred?
of statues. The Place de la Roquette is a gloomy square,
in front of the prison to which criminals are transferred
when they are sentenced to death. Many notorious exe>
cutions occurred on this Place. In the Place cles Victoires
see the clumsy statue of Louis XIV. ; the statues of
Jeanne d'Arc, on the Rue de Rivoli, in tlie Place des
P^r amides ; and that of Marshal Ney at the Observatory.
The Porte St. Martin and the Porte St. Denis,
on the Boulevard St. Denis, are triumphal arches,
erected in 1674 and 1672 respectively, to commemorate
the victories of Louis XIY. in Holland and on the
Lower Rhine. The allied armies, when they entered
Paris in 1814, passed through the Porte St. Martin,
just as the German armies entered under the Arc de
184 THE PASSAGES OF PARIS.
Triomplie in 1871. Near these 2 arches there were
sanguinary conflicts in the insurrections of 1830, 1848,^
and 1871. One of the most formidable barricades, and
one most fiercely defended by the Communists in 1871,
was near the Porte St. Martin. On the Square St.
Jacques, which occupies a portion of the site of the old
Ch. of St. Jacques la Boucherie, is a beautiful tower
(1508-22), 160 ft. high, all that now remains of the old
clmrch ; statue of Pascal, by Cavelier, in a crown of the
arch. Great number of other statues on the monument.
The Square Monge contains a statue of Voltaire. See
in the Square du Temple the group of lime-trees under
which Louis XYl. used to sit when he was a prisoner.
The Conservatoire des Arts et Metiers, opening on the
Rue St. Martin, has a magnificent industrial school.
Collections most extensive of their kind in Europe
(open 10-4 ; Sun., Tues., Thurs., free; Mon., Fri., Sat.,
1 fr.) ; articles are all labelled. See Refectory of the
old abbey. The handsome Gothic Hall is now a hbrary,
20,000 vols, (open to students, 10-3, 7.30-10 daily).
The Fontaiiie de V Observatoire is ornamented with
•jolumns bearing vases, and statues of Morning, Noon,
Evening, Night. See Fontaine Cuvier, in the Jardin
des Plantes ; Fontaine Gaillon, in the Place of the same
name; Fontaine de Grenelle, one of the finest in the
city; the Fontaine des Innocents, in Square of same
name; Fontaine Louis le Grand; Fontaine Moliere,
entrance to Rue Moliere; Fontaine Richelieu, in the
Rue de Richelieu; Fontaine Notre Dame; Fontaine
St. Sulpice / and the Fontaine de la Victoire,
The Passages, or arcades, of Paris should not
escape the stranger's attention. The most noticeable
are the Passages Jouffroy, des Panoramas, de V Opera,
des Princes, on the grand boulevards ; the Choiseul,
Rue des Petits Champs ; Passage Verdean, a continua-
PARIS. 185
tion of the Jouffroy ; Passage du Saumon, in the Rue
Montmartre; Passage F*m'e?i?ie, f rom E,ue Vivienne ;
Passage du Havre, from the Rue Caumartin to the
Rue St. Lazare. Beware of beggars and people who
offer their services in these arcades. The best shop-
ping streets are the Rue de la Paix, Rue de la Chaus-
see d' Antin, Avenue de I'Opera, Rue Scribe, Boulevard
Haussmann, Rue des Capucines, Rue Royale, Rue
Auber, Boulevard St. Germain, and all the grand
boulevards. The shops in the Avenue de I'Opera are
usually reasonable in their prices, but those of the
Rue de Rivoli are not.
Cemeteries. — There are 14 within the walls. The
most noticeable is Pfere-la-Chaise. Here the Com-
munists made their last stand, and from the hill-top
bombarded the neighborhood of the Place de la Con-
corde. See graves and tombs here of Helo'ise and
Abelard; Alfred de Musset; the composers Bellini,
Gretry, Boieldieu, Cherubini, Rossini and Chopin;
of Bernardin de St. Pierre, Talma the trage-
dian, Dupuytren, Beaumarchais, Manuel and Be-
ranger in the same tomb, Benjamin Constant,
Racine, Moliere, Lafontaine, Balzac, Eugene
Delacroix, Thiers, Marshal Ney; Clement Thomas
and Le Comte, the first victims of the Commune;
and in the Jewish Cemetery (closed on Saturday)
the tombs of Rachel and the Rothschilds. See
Prison of La Roquette, in which the Archbishop
and other hostages were executed by the Communists.
The Montmartre Cemetery has the graves of Hein-
rich Heine, Cavaignac, Halevy, Theophile Gautier,
Gozlan, Mtirger, Horace Vernet and Troyon. On the
Boulevard Montrouge is the Montparnasse Cemetery,
Visit the Picpus Cemetery, Rue Picpus, where are
tombs of Lafayette and many members of old French
nobility, victims of the Revolution. See at end of
burial-ground the Cemetery of the CruiUotmed, where
186 h5tel des invalides.
1,300 persons, executed at the Barriere du Trone, are
buried.
Fortifications. — Paris is surrounded with ramparts
(cost, $28,000,000), Mdth 94 bastions, and 21 M. long.
They are 32 ft. high, with parapet 19 ft. wide, moat
48 ft. wide, and a glacis. Since the war of 1870-71
the system of fortifications has been greatly enlarged.
The approaches to Paris are now commanded by 16
detached forts, none of them farther than 2.M. from the
city. Mont Valerien is the most imposing and pic-
turesque. Those near St. Denis and on the 1. bank
of the Marne and Seine are. best worth visiting.
fhe Hotel des Invalides is S. of the Seine, in
the S. W. portion of the city, and easily reached from
the Place de la Concorde. It was founded in 1670
by Louis XIV. for the veterans of the army. There
are at present about 500 inmates, although the build-
ing was intended to accommodate 5,000. The dome
of the Ch. of the Invalides, which can be seen from a
long distance, was gilded in the time of Napoleon I.
The fa9ade of the great edifice is 660 ft. long. In
front of the wings are groups in bronze by Desjardins.
Over the principal entrance stands an equestrian figure
of Louis XIV. On the Esplanade is the " Triumphal
Battery," used in firing salutes on great occasions.
Most of the guns are trophies. See the Cour d'Hon-
neur, painted with scenes from various French warlike
epochs, the Refectories, Library, the Salle du Couseil,
the Artillery Mtiseum., and the Ch., in which is the
Tomb of Napoleon I., directly beneath the dome
(entrance to the dome Mon., Tues., Wed., and Fri.,
12-3, free). Above the entrance to the crypt are
inscribed the words fron. ^lie Emperor's last will :
"I desire that my ashes may repose on the banks
of the Seine, among that French people I have so
PARIS. 187
well loved," Note the bas-reliefs by Simvrt; colos.
sal victories by Pradier; the sarcophagus, which
weighs 67 tons; the decoration of tlie tomb; and
tne monument of Vauban and Turenne. In a chapel
on the 1. is the tomb of Jerome Bonaparte ; on the
r., the sarcophagus of Joseph Bonaparte, once King
of Spain. The Hotel des Invalides is shown daily
from 12-3, except Sun. (small fee). Walk hence to
the Ecole Miliiaire, founded in 1751 by Louis XY.
A noble building; admission by special order. A
great number of executions of Communists here.
Operas and Tlieatres.^^ — The majority of the
Paris theatres are closed in summer, but tourists will
wish to visit the Grand Opera, or National Academy
of Music, and the Theatre Francais, which are open
the year round. The new Opera House was built
1861-74 and is the largest theatre in the world, cov-
ering nearly 3 acres, but seats fewer people (2,156)
than La Scala or San Carlo in Italy. The fapade
is exceedingly rich in statuary. On the r. notice
the celebrated group of La Danse by Carpeaux. The
7 others represent music, lyric and idyllic poetry,
declamation, song, drama, and lyric drama. Note the
medallions and busts of composers. The gifand stair-
case of white marble, with balustrades of red antique
marble and hand-rails of Algerian onyx, is the finest
in Europe (see local guides for description). To gen-
tlemen we recommend the Stalles de Farterre, 7 fr. ;
to.families, if economy be an object, the Troisiemes, 8 fr.
Ladies not admitted to the orchestra stalls, except
occasionally on Sat, The Amphitheatre is the choice
part of the' house. All this quarter of Paris is illumi-
nated by electricity. At the other end of the Avenue
de rOpera is the Theatre Frangais, the rank of
which is well known. Pounded in 1600, it was under
188 OPERAS AND THEATRES.
Moliere's superintendence until his death. The lobby
contains statues of Voltaire, George Sand, and other
celebrities (good seats here, 7-10 fr.). Paris is the
home of genteel comedy ; and the theatres where it
can be best seen are the Renaissancp, Rejane. Vau-
deville, and Gyjymase. For light opera go to the
Opera Comique (good seats, 8-12 fr.). The Odeon
ranks next to the J^rangais, and there, as at the lead-
ing theatre, classical drama is often produced. For
opera bouffe go to the Trianon, the Bouffes Paris-
iens, or the Folies Dramatiques. The Varietes has
a specialty of broad vaudevilles and comedies. The
Palais Royal and Athenee are the recognized temples
of broad comedy and of those light buffooneries played
nowhere so well as in Paris. The Chdtelet is mainly
devoted to spectacles, fairy pieces and ballets. The
Theatre Sarah- Bernhardt, formerly des Nations, is
is where Bernhardt plays when In Paris, For other
theatres, see daily papers or the English papers.
There are several circus buildings and an immense
Hippodrome. Concerts Sunday afternoons in win-
ter, generally at the Theatre du Chdtelet, Ihedtre
Sarah Bernhardt and Champs Ely sees Circus. The
best music halls are the Olympia, Casino de Paris,
la Scala and Polies-Bergere ; in summer, the Mar-
igny, Jar din de Paris, des Amtassadeurs and
Alcazar d'Ete, all in the Champs Elysees.
Museums. — The Louvre ; paintings, statuary,
aniiquities ; 10-4 in winter, 9-5 in summer, Mondays
excepted. The Luxembourg ; paintings, statuary,
chiefly works of living French artists; 9-5 except
Sun. ; when the Senate is in session tickets must be
obtained from a Senator or from the Secretaire de la
questure. Cluny, Rue de Sommerard ; antiquities and
curiosities; 10-4 except Monday. Moliere. Collec-
tion of busts and portraits of great value as regards
the literary history of F'rance, in various parts of the
Theatre Frangais; authorization to visit the non-
PARIS 189
Sublic parts of buildingf from the archivist, M. G.
lonval. Camavalet, Rue de Sevigne; objects re-
lating to the history of the French Revolution ; 11-4
Sun. and Thurs. Archives Nationales, Rue des
Francs-Bourgeois; objects and documents relative to
French history; 10-4 except Monday. Cabinet des
Estampes et des Medailles, Rue Richelieu ; 10-4 daily.
Musee des JBeaux-Arts^ Rue Bonaparte; casts, copies,
engravings; 10-4 daily. Instrumental, Rue de Fau-
bourg-Poisonniere; musical instruments of all epochs;
12-4 Mon. and Thurs. De r Opera; autograph MSS.
of composers, instruments, costumes; 11-4 except
Sunday. De la Mon7iaie,Qiia.i Conti; medals, coins,
postage stamps; 12-3 Tues. and Fri. on authorization
obtained from the director of the mint. Des Gobelins,
ancient and modern tapestries; 1-3 Wed. and Sat.
Trocadero; on the ground floor, casts of architectural
and other sculpture; 11-4 except Monday; first floor,
ethnographical museum; 12-4 Sunday and Thursday.
Ouimet, Avenue d'lena; collection relative to the
history of eastern religions; 12-4 daily. Du Oarde-
Meuble, Quai d'Orsay; furniture, tapestries, bronzes,
etc., from Louis XIV. to present time; interesting;
10-4 except Monday. Des Arts et Metiers, Rue St.-
Martm; collection relative to applied science and in-
dustries; one of the halls has remarkable acoustic
properties; 10-4 Sun., Tues. and Thurs,; other days
by special permit. Dupuytreri and Orjila, Rue de
I'Bcole de Medicine; anatomy and pathology; 10-4
except Sunday; tickets obtained at the office of the
secretary of the Faculte de Medecine. D'Artillerie,
at the Hotel des Invalides; arms and armor; 10-4
«xcept Monday. Caen, 1 Rue de Seine; paintings
offered in competition for the Prix de Rome; admis-
sion on request. Cermisci, 7 Avenue Velasquez*,
Chinese and Japanese art.
National Library (2,000,000 vols.), in the Rue
de Richelieu (see local guides); the beautiful St,
190 ALONG THE SEINE
Ge7i6vUv6 Library (120,000 vols, and 35,000 MSS.), Place du
Panth&m ; tlie Halles Centrales, vast pavilions cov,
ering many acres, reached from the Rue Montmartre or
Boulevard Sebastopol, should be visited between 6 and
8 A.M., when the marketing is most active. The Bourse
de Commerce, in the Rue du Louvre, replaces the old
wheat exchange called the Halle au Ele. The Halle aux
Vins, or the wine depot of the city, is next the Jardin
des Plantes ; 30 million gallons can be stored there. The
Ahattoira, or slaughter-houses, cover 67 acres, and 1,000
persons are employed there.
The Hospitals of the Hotel Dieu, Beaujon, Fau-
bourg St. Honore ; La Charite, Rue Jacob ; La Pitie, Rue
Lacepede; Lariboisiere, near the N. Rly. stat.; St. Louis,
Rue Bichat ; Du Midi, Rue des Capucines ; De Lourcine,
street of same name ; Des Cliniques, Place de PEcole de
Medecine; Des Incurahles, at Ivry,— may generally be
• visited without difficulty. For descriptions of the great
Asylums, of the Mont de Piete, of the Prisons (historical
ones mentioned elsewhere), and of the minor military
establishments, see local guides. An excursion through
the Sewers, from the Bastille to the Placode la Con-
corde, in boats and wagons, may be made twice a month
in summer. The Catacombs, which contain the bones of
most of the victims of the Revolution, and of nearly
6,000,000 of other dead, may be occasionally visited with
permission.
Of the 27 bridges over the Seine, the most noticeable
are the Pont d' Austerlitz, which has 5 stone arches,
is 390 feet long, and has the names of the principal officers
killed in the celebrated battle inscribed on the ornaments
of the bridge. It was built in 1808, and rebuilt in 1858.
The Pont K"6uf was begun in 1578, and completed in
1624. Upon it stands an equestrian statue of Henry TV,
The Pont des Arts was built for pedestrians only. The
Pont du Carrousel has 4 colossal stone statues, those
on the left bank representing Abundance and Industry,
and on the right the Seine and the City of Paris. The
Pont Boyal was built in 1608. Just below is the pier for
the steamers which run to St. Cloud and Suresnes. Far-
VERSAILLES 191
fher down the Seine are the Pont de Solferino, 155 yards
3ong, with the names of the principal French victories
in the campaign of 1859 inscribed upon the cornices ; the
Pont de la Cy/(cordc, opposite the Palais Bourbon; the
Po7it des Invalide,-!, which has statues representing victory
by land and victory by sea; the Pont de VAlma, with
statues between the arches representing different types
of French soldiers; the Pont d'lena, built 1806-13, ooposite
the Champ de Mars, with colossal statues of men and
horses; the Pont Alexandre III., built in 1899;
and the Pont du Jour, a superb viaduct, 570 feet long.
Excursions near Paris.
Versailles {Roiel des Reservoirs, where tlie Germaa
princes dwelt during the siege of Paris) is reached by
half-hourly trains from St. Lazare or Mont-Pariiasse stat.
{\\\-\^\ M. ; return-fares, 3fr. 30 c., 2 fr. 70 c.) ; or
by tramway from the Louvre (10 M.) ; or by carriage,
through the Bois de Boulogne, the Park of St. Cloud,
and Ville d'Avray. Versailles is a sleepy old town of
61,000 inhab., which has grown up around the palace
that Louis XIV. built on an isolated plateau between
low^ forest-covered hills, at a cost of $200,000,000.
The palace overlooks the town . See Hotel de Ville ;
the Palais de Justice; the Library (60,000 vols.) '
the Salle du Jeu de Paitme, the cradle of the French
E-evolution; the Stai^ie of Horace Vernet ; and
the Theatre, restored in 1850 ; the Place Roche, with
the statue of the General ; and the Cathedral of St.
Louis. The courtyard contains many statues, among
Avhich are those of Bayard, Colbert, Massena, and Tu-
remie, and an equestrian bronze statue of Louis XIV.
In 1661 Louis XIV. formed his great scheme of a
palace and park ; and Levan and Mansard erected tJie
buildings, while Le Notre laid out and decorated the
gardens. The palace has not been inhabited since
1789 \ ana in the reign of Louis Philippe it was con*
192 VERSAILLES.
Verted into a museum, devoted, as the inscription
shows, " To all the Glories of Prance.'* The Chapel
is gorgeously decorated (1696-1710). The Museum is
open daily, 12-4 (except Mon.). The entrance is at
the 1. in the Marble Courtyard. Notice the Marble
Staircase, leading to the fii-st story ; and thf Queen^s
Staircase, to the second. The Museum is va)' , and its
magnificent halls are crowded with statues and por-
traits of the generals, admirals, and sovr /oigns of
France, and witli hundreds of pictures of he} battles in
all four continents, painted by Vernet, Scheffer, )elacroix,
Regnault, etc., forming an unrivalled panoraj ta of mili-
tary glory. 33 grand battle-pictures in Valerie des
Batailles, a hall 396 X 52 ft. in area. In tie Salle du
Sacre is the great picture of the " Const.-cration of
Napoleon," by David ; also, Gros's famous painting,
" The Battle of Aboukir." The Grande Galerie des
Glaces is the most notable hall, 240 X 35 ft. in area,
adorned with Le Brun's paintings (1679-83), and over,
looking the gardens. The Bedroom of LDuis XIV.,
the Salle des . Gardes, the King's AntecXumher, the
Comicil Hall, the Salle de la Giierre ; a?ad, on the
-ground floor, i]ie Halls of the Marshals, of the Kings
of France (67 portraits, from Clovis to Napoleon III.),
and of the Royal Residences, — are espf.cially worth
visiting. The Sculpture Galleries are ex'^remely inter-
esting. In the Queen' s Chamber the 3 queens, Marie
Therese, Marie Leczinska, and Marie Antoinette, have
lodged. Catalogues, giving description of all the rooms,
^or sale at palace. Eine view of the Grand Canal and
the Basin of Apollo from the steps in front of the
palace. The fountains play afternoons on Sun. (gen.
erally announced in the Paris papers) The chief cu-
riosities of the gardens are the Orangery (1685); the
Parterres du Midi and du Nord ; the Fiece d'Eau de*
ST. CLOUD. 193
SniHses ; the Neptune Fountain ; the two fountains near
tlie Oi'angerj ; the Latona Basin ; and the Grande Al-
ice (ki Tapis Vert. The Grand Canal is 4,674 ft. long,
and about 186 ft. wide. It was here that Louis XIY.
gave liis Venetian festivals, famous in history. The
Grand Trianon, a horseshoe-shaped villa, built by
Louis XIV. for Madame Maintenon, is open daily
(12-4). Richly furnished rooms, in which Bazaine
was tried. The gardens of the Petit Trianon are alse
open daily. Notice the curious display of old state-
coaches used by the sovereigns of France, in a coach-
house near the Grand Trianon. When the Grander.
En^'v p1av, rly. tickets from Paris cost 2 fr, 1^ fr.
St. Cloud (Restaurants: Belvedere; de la Gare) is
visited from St. Lazare (Ifr. 60c., Ifr. 10c. j; or by
steamer, which is preferable in warm weather. From
the bridge over the Seine turn to the 1., and walk
through the Park to the Great Cascade. Then turn
up to the ruined Palace (built in 1572), mainly de-
stroyed by French shells, thrown into the wood to dis-
lodge the Germans. This was a favorite residence of
Napoleon III. (One-horse carriages per hr., 3 fr.)
Many ruined buildings in the town, remains of the
conflagration started by the Germans. Beautiful new
ch. in the 12th-century style, with a lofty stone spire.
New Hotel de Ville, near by. Magnificent outlook over
Paris from the hill above the stat. The Palace was
inhabited by most of the French sovereigns, from 1785.
The rly. from Paris to Versailles runs through the
beautiful park, which is ornamented with statues, foun-
tains, and lakes. See the Trocadero Garden, N. of the
palace ; the Pavilion de Breteuil ; and the great water-
jet, to the 1. of the Cascade. The Park of Montretont
near the rly., was the scene of a desperate fight, ir
the sortie made by the French, Jan. 19, 1871, in whict
they lost 3,000 men. Mouument here to the slain.
194 SEVRES-ST. GERMAIN-RUEIL
Sevres is easily readied from St. Cloud. Here is
tlie noted porcelain factory. Exhibition room of the
Ceramic Museum open daily, 12-5 ; strangers admitted
•without cards. The Workshops may be inspected
Mon., Thurs., and Sat., 12-5 (get cards at 3 Rue de
Yalois, Paris). Uly. from Paris to Bellevue, 5 min.
"walk from Ihe factory.
St. Germain-en-Laye. This is one of the most
beautiful excursions near Paris (fares, Ifr. 65 c, Ifr.
35 c). The principal sights are the Pavilion Henri
Quatre, in which Louis XIV. was born, and Thiers
died; the magnificent Terrace on the border of the
forest of St. Germain ; and the gloomy old Chateau^
where James II. of England lived after the Revolution,
of 1C88. In the Ch. is a Mausoleum^ erected by George
lY. to the memory of James. The forest of St. Ger-
main, one of the largest near Paris (9,000 acres), is
full of charming walks, and a day or two may well be
spent in this lofty and healthy old town. Tlie Museum
of National A7itiqvAties is in the chateau (open Sun.,
Tues., and Thurs., 11-5). The Terrace, constructed
by Le Notre in 1672, is \\ M. long, with superb view*
Prom St. Germain to Versailles is a pleasant walk.
Rueil (fares, 95 c, 65 c.) is 8f M. from St. Lazare
stat. In its Ch. are monuments to Empress Josephine
and Queen Tlortense. Malmaison (tramway from Rueil,
3 M.) was the favorite home of Napoleon, and there
Josephine died in 1814. Not far away is the Chateau
of Buzeniml, near which the artist, Henri Regnault,
was killed in the fight of Jan. 19, 1871. About ._2| M.
from Rueil is Bougival, a resort of celebrated painters.
See the Restaurant, witli walls decorated with land-
scapes by Corot, Eranyais, etc. Erom thence go to
Louveciennes, a lovely village, with a 15th-century ch.
It is but 7-8 min. walk, thence to Koinrj. On the
ST. DENIS. — ENGHIEN. 1 95'
till is Marly-le-Roi, where stood a beautiful palace
built bj Louis XIV., aud destroyed during the Revo-
lution. Victorieu Sardou lives here. To the W. is
Monte Gristo, in which Dumas the Elder lived so long.
St. Denis is 4 M. from Paris (return-fares, 1 fr.
SO c, 85 c., 70 c.). Chapel begun liere, a.d. 275,
in honor of St. Denis, who had his head cut off on
Montinartre, and who is said to liave taken it on his
arm and walked off across the fields, Dagobert built
the ch., which was the nucleus of the one begun by
Pepin, finished by Charlemagne in 775, and demol-
ished and a larger one built on its ruins 400 years
later. During the Revolution the ch. was pillaged. It
was restored by Viollet-le-Duc. Beautiful monuments
and statues here. Here Charlemagne was anointed ;
the Oriflamme was kept ; Abelard dwelt ; Joan of Arc
hung up her arms; Henri I. abjured Protestant-
ism; and Napoleon I. was married to Marie Louise.
The bones of the Kings of Erance from Dagobert
(630) to Louis XV. (1774) were buried here; and
the mad Revolutionists tore them from their tombs,
and buried them in a common ditch. They are novf
in the crypt, and the superb royal monuments adorn
the ch., whose interior is 354 ft. long and 129 ft.
wide, lighted by splendid stained windows, and en*
riched with mosaics and statuary.
Bnghien and Montmorency are on the N. Rly.
i^nghien is noted for sulphur baths; Siudi a,t Mont-
morency is the Hermitage which Rousseau inhabited,
and where he began La Nouvelle Helo'ise. Robespierre
and Gretry also lived here. Chantilly and Com.piegne
(fares to Char.tillv, 5fr. 5c , 3fr. 75c.. 2fr. 80c ; ta
Compiegne, lOfr. 30c., 7fr. 35c., 3fr. 65c.) Chan-
tilly was the Versailles of the Princes of Conde, and
was beautified by them from the 13th century until the
196 COMPIEGNE.-FONTAINEBLEAU.
Revolution. It has two fine chateaux (described by
Madame de Sevigne), and a famous forest of 10
square M. Spring and autumn races here. Com-
pi^gne has always been a royal residence. Napoleon
I. was fond of it, and Napoleon III. entertained there
with great magnificence. The GaUrie des Fetes is
superb. The Library was the favorite work-place of
Napoleon III. The Compiegne Forest is 59 M.
around. From Compiegne to Pierrefonds, excursion
by omnibus through the forest, 9 M. Grand feudal
fortress, built in 1400, and restored by Yiollet-le-Duc,
with 8 huge towers and a donjon, on a rocky height
over Pierrefonds. Hotel des Ruines, near by.
Ermenonville (return tickets, 7 fr. 90 c, 5 fr. 90 c,
4 fr. 95 c. ; Le Bourget, where there were many fights
in 1870-71, is on this route), is the beautiful retreat
where Rousseau died, in 1778. Celebrated Park just
beyond, at Mortefontaine. — Trains run to Fontaine-
bleau {Lion d'Or; Aigle-Noir ; Dio Nordetdela
Poste; De la Chancellerie) from the Gare de Lyons
(return tickets, 9 fr., 6 fr. 80 c, 4 f«. 95 c). On the
the road is Cliarento7i, with its celebrated lunatic
asylum and fortress ; Alfort, where there is a horse
and dog hospital ; llontmesly and Melun, with two
handsome old chs. and a Gothic town-hall. From
Stat., omnibus (1^ M.; 30-50 c.) to the Chateau
(open daily, 12-4). This stately palace was built by
Francis I., on the site of Louis VII. 's castle; and
here Conde died, the Edict of Nantes was revoked,
Louis XIII. was born, Josephine was divorced.
Napoleon signed his abdication, Pius VII. was
imprisoned, and Napoleon III. was baptized. It
is crowded with rich frescoes and paintings. Gobe-
lins tapesti-ies, and antique furnishings. See the bou-
doir of Marie Antoinette, the bedrooms oi Anne of
Austria and Catherine de Medicis, and the splendid
SCEA UX. — MEUDON. — ORLEANS. 197
balle des Fetes. This was a favorite abode of tli©
.Empress Eugenie and her son. The Forest, dear to
artists, and one of the most beaittiful in the world,
must be seen. It is 50 M. around, with many fine
gorges, crags, and heaths, and has 12,400 M. of roads
and pathways. On the borders are many charming
villages inhabited mainly by artists ; and the lovers of
Millet will visit Barbizon.
Sceaux (retui'u-fares, 2 tV. 20 c., 1 fr. 40c., 1 fr. 10 c.)
is a beautiful hill-town, vdth a delicious Park and
the Chateau where Colbert once lived and Voltaire-
wrote several of his famous tragedies. Chatilloa
was the scene of many combats during the siege.
Meudon is reached from the Tuileries by boat
every 15 minutes. In the Chateau, built in 1695 and
hurned Ijy the Germans in 1871, the Empress Marie
Louise and Prince Napoleon lived. This was also the
parish of Rabelais. Fine view from Terrace (where
the Prussians had a 26-gun battery) ; noble trees, "^lie
walk through Meudon to Versailles is charming.
To Orleans, Blois, and Tours (fares to Tours, 28 fr.
80 c, 21 fr. 60 c, 15 fr. 80 c. ; 145i M.). Orleans
[Eotel d' Orleans ; Be Loiret), founded by the Homaus,.
on the Loire, contains a noble Flamboyant ^-athedral^
the only Gothic cathedral built in Europe smce the
Middle Ages. It has a grand interior, with double
aisles ; and 2 towers, each 280 ft. high. See t!ie:
bronze replica of a marble statue of Jeanne d'Arc
made by Princess Mane, the Museum, and the Mairie.
Orleans was the capital of the first Kingdom of Bur-
gundy. The forest of Orleans is one of tlie largest
in the country. The Germans took the city in 1870,
Blois ijlotel d'Anr/leterre) has a stately old Castle^
for centuries a residence of kings and queens. Fine
old houses in the town. 12 M. (2 hrs.) jience,. by
198 AMBOISE. — TOURS. — DIJON.
omnibus, is the grand, many-towered, and historic*
Castle of Chambord, built by Francis I. and stil)
in the Bourbon family. Erom Onzain stat. it is
1 M. to the Chateau de Chaumont, a high-towered
bill-fortress, where Catherine de Medicis lived ; Car-
dinal d'Amboise was born ; the Prince de Conde was
imprisoned ; and Yoltaire wrote La Pucelle. 11 M,
beyond is Amboise, with its famous Castle, perched
on a lofty crag, and dating from 1470. In tlie gardens
is an exquisite Gothic chapel, with marvellous stone-
carving. 10 M. S. is the castle of Chenonceauap
built by Erancis I., inhabited by Diana de Poi-
tiers and Louise of Lorraine, and the favorite resori
of Voltaire, Rousseau, Bolingbroke, etc. It is still in
perfect order, and elegantly furnished. At Tours
\H6tel de VUnlcers, near the stat.), in Touraine, on the
Loire, the best French is spoken. See Gothic Cathe-
dral, founded in 1170 ; Episcopal Palace ; many famous
schools ; a Museum with 200 paintings ; a fine Public
Library ; and two ancient towers (relics of the old
Cathedral), beneath one of ^^hich the wife of Charle-
magne was buried. Many American and English
families reside here. See Plessis les Tours, the horn©
of Louis XL
Eor other excursions from Paris see local guides.
Routes from Paris to Switzerland.
Our itinerary leads to Germany, before entering Swil
zerland.
From Paris to Geneva, by Dijon and Macon. — In 11
hrs., by express train (distance, 3881- M. ; fares, 76 tV.
75 c., 47 fr. 30 c., 80 fr. 85 c.). Many stop at Macon over
night. J}\^o'n.{Hdtel du Jura, near the sta. de la Cloche^
Bourgogne)^ 60,000 inliab. , is in the wine-growing dis-
MACON - BELFORT - RHEIMS 199
trict. See Palace of the Dukes of Burgundy, now
a town-hall, with very interestmg museum ; the Castle,
built by Louis XI. ; th.G Burgundian-Gothic Ch. of Notre
Dame (built 1220-30), with a curious clock. Macon
{Hotel de l' Europe) is an important rly. junction (good
buifet). Eine views of the Jura Mts. from the train.
At Amber ieu you begin to climb the mts. Junction at
Culoz for Aix-les-Bains, Chamhery, and Turin. Near
here some fine viaducts, and the Fort de VEcluse, the
key to the Rhone valley. From this poini you traverse
a picturesque mt. country to Geneva.
From, Paris to Switzerland, via Pontarlier (fares
from Paris to Berne, 68 fr. 15 c., 50 fr. 85 c., 37 fr.
25 0.). Same route as previous one to Dijon. Erom
Pontarlier i\\Q route leads up through the mts. to Berne ;
the scenery is wildly beautiful. A branch leads from
Pontarlier to Lausanne (fares from Paris, 67 fr., 47 fr.
80 c, 35 fr.).
From. Paris to Basle, by Troyes, Chmimont, Vesoul, and
Belfort, the fortress which made a heroic resistance in
1870, and thence either through Alsace, touching at
Mulhouse, or by nelle to Basle.
From, Paris to Basle, via Nancy, Strasbourg, aud
Mulhouse (fare, 75 fr. 60 c). The interesting towus on
this rout.p are Meaux {Hotel des 3 Uois), 25 M. from
Paris, in a loveiy siniiition on tlif^ Marne. 8upf^v'i
Gothic CatJiedral of St. hMeime, with Monuments oj
Bossuet (who was Bishop of Meaux) and Philip oJ
Castille. Ghdteau Thierry was the birth)3lace of La.
foiitaine. From Epernay branch (fare, 3fr. 70c.) to
"RhQims) Hotel Lion d''Or; Grand; Commerce), city of
105,000 iuhab. In its cathedral the kings of Prance
have been crowned. See magnificent (jot\i\Q, Abbey C/i.
of SI. Pemi, founded by Clovis in 6th century; and
Cathedral, built 1212-1430, and one of the grandest
200 SEDAN. — TOUL. — NANCY. — THE VOSGES.
in Europe. It is 466 ft. long and 124 ft. liigli ; tilled
with beautiful statues and monuments. Splendid rose-
windows and interesting Treasury. Charles VII. was
crowned here ; Joan of Arc standing by his side. The
Hotel de Ville contains a fine public library. Rly. to
Sedan {Hotel de la Croix d'Or'), where MacMahon's
army of 80,000 men surrendered.
Beyond Epeniay on Ihe main line is Ch^lons-sur-
Marne ; and Bar-le-Duc {Hotel du Cygne). Statues
of Marshal Oudinotand Gen. Excelmans ; monument of
the Prince of Orange, Toul, on the Moselle, is a for-
tress which was besieged in 1870. Nancy ( Grand;
Americain; de Paris), the old capital of Lor-
raine, and the prettiest town in France, with a large
Cathedral, an interesting Museum (in the Hotel de
Ville), a splendid now Prefecture, and a fine speci-
men of Flamboyant Gothic in the Palace of ihe Dukes
of Lorraine. Mtre Dame de Bon-Secours contains
the Tomb of Stanislas, ex-King of Poland, who lived
in Nancy after abdicating his throne in 1735. See
triumphal arch ; two fountains ; and Statues of
Thiers, Oallot, Drouot, and Stanislas. Near the
gate of St. Jean is the Cross of the Duke of Bur-
gundy, close to which was found the body of
Charles the Bold, after tlie celebrated battle (1477).
Beyond Nancy you pass through the Vosges Mts.
and down to Strasbourg,
ST. QUENTIN, — MONS. — VALENCIENNES. 201
BELGIUM.
WE now invite your attention to the route from
Paris to Brussels and other sections of Belgium,
our advice being that it is vi^ell to see portions of Bel-
gium, Holland, and Germany before visiting Switzerland
and Italy.
The most direct route from Paris to Brussels is
from the Gare du Nord, via Tergnier, Maubeuge, and
Mons (time, 6^ hrs. ; fares, 36fr. 20 c., 27 fr. 20 c.,
18 fr. 90 c). You pass through St. Denis ; Cliantilly ;
Creil ; Compiegne ; St. Quentin, an important manu-
factaring centre, with a noble ch. as well as a magnifi-
cent City Hall of the 14th and 15th centuries ; through
the valley of the Sambre to Mauheuge and thence to
Feignies, the French frontier. Mons (Jlotel Couronne)
had a castle built by Julius Csesar. It is the centre
of a great coal-mining countrj. Splendid interior of
the Cathedral of St. Waudru (1450-1589) and Hotel
de Ville (1158). Belfry built in 1662 by the Spaniards.
At Malplaquet, 8 M. S. E., Marlborough defeated the
French in 1700, and lost 20,000 men. Between Mons
and Brussels is Hal, with the elegant 14th-century Notre
Dame, still a place for pious pilgrimages. Before reach-
ing Brussels you can see Ste. Gudule's towers.
Another route from Paris to Brussels traverses
Amiens, Arras, Douai, and Mons (fares, 39 fr. 25 c,
29 fr. 45 c, 20 fr. 55 c). Douai {Hotel de Flandre) is
an important place de guerre, and has an interestmg mu-
seum and town-hall. Valenciennes is also a strong
old fortress and a great manufacturing town. Here
is a statue of Froissart, the chronicler, born in Valen-
ciennes. From thence to Mons you pass through a
203 LILLE - NAMUR - LIEGE
fertile and populous country, by Jemmapes, where tho
French won a great victory over the Austrians itf
1792.
There is also a direct route from Paris to Ghep-t bj
Lille, Roubaix, and Courtrai (9 hrs. ; fares, 37 fr. 70 c.^
28 fr. 25 c). Lille. {Hotel de I' Europe), a manufactur-
ing town of 188,000 inhab., is a first-class fortress oit
the river Deule. St. Catherines Ch. has an altar-piece
by Rubens. In the Wicar Museum is a precious col-
lection of drawings by the Italian masters. In the
great square is a column commemorative of the Aus*
Frian siege of 1792. Statue of Gen. Negrier, killed at
Paris in 1848. Roubaix, 5 M. beyond, is a great
woollen and cotton working town of 83,000 inhab. •
production $40,000,000 yearly. Tourcoing, the PrepcJ^
frontier, is a factory-town.
From London one may go via Calais to Brussels
by Lille and Tournai (fares from Calais, 21 fr. 30 c.,
15 fr. 95 c, 11 fr. 40 c). Leaving London at 8.05 p.m.
you reach Brussels at 6 a.m. (fares, £211 s., £1 18 s.)
From Paris to Liege, da Charier oi, is 228|- M. (ex-
press in 8 hrs. ; fares, 42 fr. 40 c, 31 fr. 90 c, 21 fr.
35 c). This is also the route from Paris to Cologne
(fares from Paris, 59 fr. 35 c, 44 fr. 20 c). Charle-
roi is a modern town, an industrial centre of Belgium.
The environs are fine. 46,000 workmen employed in
coal-mining. The line crosses the Sambre 13 times
on the way to Namur, a pretty fortified town,
of Boman origin, with a vast old citadel, on the Meuse.
It has several spacious squares, and a Pocnaissance
Cathedral. Namur has sustained several celebrated
sieges, — among others that of 1692, commanded by
Louis XIV. in person. Archaeological Museum, worth
visitin.^. From Namur you may go to Luxembourg.
Liege {d'Arigleterre ; de VUniv&i^s ; Chemin de
BELGIUM. 303
Fer; De8uede}.tl\e¥\em\sh LiiicJc nnd German Lilttich,
has 140,000 inhab., and is picturesquely situated on
the Meuse. See Quentin Durward for a recital of the
striking events in its history. This town, " tlie Shef-
field of Belgium," is noted for its weapon-factories,
and one quarter is given uj) to workshops. The Chs.
of St. Jacques, SL FtiNl, St. Martin, St. CroLr (lOtli
centuryj, St. Barthelemy, as well as the Cathedral St.
Paul, should be seen. The Choir of the cathedral
dates from tlie 13th century. The splendid Gothic
Palais de Justice (described in Quentin I)urv:ard') was
the palace of the prince-bishops, built in 1508-40 by
Cardmal de la Marck, a relative of the " Wild Boar
of the Ardennes." See Arch/pological Museum ; Hotel
deVille; University (library, 100,000 vols.) ; the Com-
munal Museum ; the Citadel, with grand vievvs; \\\^ Royal
Cannon - foundry. The environs have beautiful
scenery.
The route to Cologne traverses a picturesque region
to Verviers (15| M.), a modern city of woollen-factories;
tJience to Ai.r-la-ChapeUe. From Liege you may \asit
Spa. On the way is Chaudfontaine i^Hutel des Bains;
D'Angleterre), a famous watering-place. The waters
(used in baths) are beneficial in nervous diseases. 8 M. .
beyond is Pepinster, whence runs a branch line (^ hr.)
to Spa [Hotel de Flandre ; H Orange ; De York ; Des
Pays Bas ; Grand Hotel Britannique ; Casino, Hue
Royale), one of the oldest of European watering-places.
The climate is remarkably fine, although exposed to
sudden variations, dangerous for consumptives. The
waters are tonic (iron). 3-4 glasses should be taken
daily, and the cure demands 6-8 weeks. Season, May
15-Oct. 15. 20,000 visitors come here annually. The
village (6,000 inhab.) is in a pretty glen, anionp- wooded
hills and scenery famous for beauty.
204 LUXEMBOURG. — BRUSSELS.
rrom Namur you may goto Luxembourg and Treves,
and thence make a delightful excursion down the Mo>
selle by steamboat to Coblence. You may also go from
Liege (]09f M. hi 5-6 hrs.) to Luxembourg.
Luxembourg, the famous fortress, the capital of the
g)*and duchy, was made a neutral state by the Treaty of
London iu 1867. It is very picturesquely situated
on a rocky plateau, with precipices on 8 sides. The
Alzette valley is divided by a fortified rock called the
Bock, on which is the ancient Wlelunina Tor>er. See
Cathedral, Hotel de Ville, Archaeological Musi^unc,
Rlys. hence to Treves or Metz, by TMonuUe.
Brussels and Environs.
Brusseh (Hotel 3Ietropole ; De Flandre; Grand;
De Vienne ; De V Europe ; Mengelle ; Hollap4e; De
Saxe; de V'Em'pereur), the capital of Belgir«m, has
(including suburbs) 475,000 inhab. To appreciate
Brussels, read the liistories of the old tawn, — •
the terrible period of the Spanish dominatioi, the
riots and bombardments in the 17th centurj , the
annexation to France, and tlie union with and acces-
sion from tlie Low Countries. Brussels stands on
an undulating plain. It is divided into the Upper and
Lower Towns. On the hiil are the joajaces, the Park,
and the fine Rue Royale. Below, in the picturesque
older portion, are the commercial classes. Brussels
is on the hue between the Walloons and Tlemings;
and you will hear French and Flemish spoken, the
former prevailing. Go first to the Gignde^Pkice, the
ancient forum ol' Brussels. Note the exquisite fafade
of the Hqfd de-Vi-Ue (built 1402-43), and the stately
spire, 370 ft. high, at wliose top is a colossal statue
of St. Michael. Entrance fee, 50 c. Beautiful tapes-
tries and paintings in the Salle des Fetes, etc. Opposite
BELcauM. ::05
(is the MaL&im'djji^Roi, built by Charles V. (1514-25).
j There were imprisoned Counts Escmont and Hoorne,
and in front they were decapitated, in 1568. Many
of picturesque houses on the Place were built by the
Guilds, as meeting-places. Tournaments were held
here in the 15th ce?itury. The famous 3Iannikin
fountain is back of the Hotel de Ville. The GaUrie
St.-Hubert is one of the finest arcades in Europe.
In the steep Rue Montague de la Cour are the finest
shops. At the top is the Place Royale. Go first fo
the Ji2i.s£2ii?^ (Place du Musee). On the left is the
great Palais de Vlndustrie, with statue of Prince
Chcirles of Lorraine. The Museum of Painting (open
lG-5 in summer) contains 13 canvases by Rubens;
many Van Dycks, Holbeins, and Rembrandts. The
AncifiJit Museum is rich in tapestries. In the
Modern Museum there are many good pictures.
Next take the Rue de la Regence, ending at
the new Palais de Justice, which covers more
ground than St. Peter's at Rome, and cost
$8,400,000. Vast dome. Near by is the Palais
des Beaux-Arts, with fine statues and groups ; the
Palace of the Comte de Flandres ; the Place du
Petit Sablon, with monuments to Counts Egmont
and Hoorne ; the Royal Conservatory of Music;
and the Synagogue. JSIest, going by the Rue
Royale, visit the Park, a lovely promenade
(military music, 3-4|, in summer); then to the
King's Palace, simple, but well stocked with fine
pictures. When the flag is up, the King is there.
When he is not, strangers are admitted (2 fr.).
Ministries in elegant buildings near the Park.
The Palais des Academies is near the Park.
This building, in Italian style, contams the
Plaster Museum (free. 10-4) the Academies of
letters, arts and sciences, and medicine: an/>
206 STE. GUDULE.-WATERLOO,
a noble concert hall, with paintings of episodes in
Belgian history.
Ste. Gudale, the great Gothic Church (open all
day ; to climb the towers, 1 person, 2fr. ; 2-6 persons,
3fr.), was founded in the 11th-century; choir and
transept, 13th century; towers and nave, 14th. The
carved pulpit, made in 1699, represents the Expulsion
from Paradise. Superb stained-glass windows; and
many rare old tombs.
'Other ObjecU of Lfferest. — Place de^ Martyrs, with
monument to those who perished in the llevolution of
1830; Place des Barricades, and statue of Vesalius,
tlie anatomist ; Place dv Jjuxemljoiirg, statue of Cocke-
rill ; Place de la Monnaie, and Opera House ; Bourse ;
Rue Neuve ; handsome nevr boulevards around tlie old
city; Observatory; hospitals; National Bank; Mnsee
Wiertz (fantastic compositions of a Belgian painter) ;
Museum of Antiquities, and Porte de Hal ; precious
paintings in Aremberg Palace ; Boiaiiical Garden ;
Bois de la Camhre, the Bois de Boulogne of Brussels.
At Laeken, 2 M. N., is the Ch. of Ste: Marie, where
members of the royal family are buried. In the cem=
Btery, grave and statue of Malibran. — Boyal Palace,
J.he King's favorite residence. Monument to Leo-
pold I. — Manor of Bouchout, where dwells Carlotta,
ex-Empress of Mexico.
Waterloo may be reached by rly. to Braine 1' Al-
len d, and walk (^ hr.) to the Buttf du Linn, or to
Waterloo^ and go over to t lie battle-field by omnibus ;
or you can go by mail-coach from the Place Poi/alc, at
9.30 a.m. (round-trip, 7 fr. ; ooacliman, 1 \x?). Guides,
Belgian and English, on the Held (f'^es, 2-4 fr.). Water-
joo is a Flemish village. The Mt. St. Jean and the
Butte dn Lion, on which is a "pyramid and a colossal.
lion, should be visited. JSluse^ m at Llotel dn Mnsee.
BELGIUM. 207
Louvain {Hotel de Suede ; Du Nord), population
35,000, may be visited from Brussels in 1 hr, (fares,
2 fr. 30 c.,'l fr. 75 c, 1 fr. 15 c). This was one of
the great weaving-centres ; but after 1383 the weavers
went to England. The Hotel de Ville is one of the
marvels of Belgium. This jewel of Gothic art was
built 1448-63. Exterior lavishly decorated with stat-
ues. The great Gothic Ch. of SI. Pierre (open,
except 2-4) has a fine tabernacle and many remark-
able paintings. Les Ha lies, built 1317, and the vast
prison, should be seen. The University, founded in
1426, is Roman Catholic, and has 1,000 students
(formerly 6,000).
Ghent, Bruges, Antwerp, etc.
You may visit Ghent and Bruges from Antwerp or Brus-
sels ; oi", if you come directly from England to Ostend,
you can go thi-ough Bi-uges and Ghent to Brussels. Fares,
Dover to Ostend, 15 s., 10 s.; 68 M.; time, 4-6 hrs.
Fares, Ostend to Brussels, 9 fr. 30 c, 6 fr. 95 c, 4 fr. 65 c.
Ostend (Continental; de la Plage; de V Ocean; Vic-
toria; Lion dOr) is the second maritime town in
Belgium (20,000 inh.) and the summer residence of
the king. It receives about 18,000 visitors annually.
Renowned sea-baths ; magnificent stone dyke, ^ M.
long; monumental Cursaal; Leopold Park, filled with
caf6s. Celebrated oyster-parks here. From Ostend
it is 14 M. (fares, 1 fr. 75 c, 1 fr. 35 c, 90 c.) to
Bruges {Hotel de Flandre; de V JJnivers; Du Com-
merce; St. Amand), 45,000 inh., on the grand canals
to Ostend, Ghent, and Sluys. It is, like Amsterdam,
called the ' * Venice of the North," because seamed with
canals. Handsome rly. stat. Guides, 1-3 fr. The
18th century was the epoch of Bruges' greatest pros-
208 BRUGES.
parity. It was the centre of the trade of the Hanseatic
League, and the chief coinniercial city of Europe. Its
decline dates from 1545. In the Grand Place is the
Meur de Ble Inn of whicli Longfellow sings. There also
stood the house in which Maximilian was confined in
the revolt of 1488 ; and opposite is tlie liome of Charles
11. of England, in his exile. The Cathedral (open
daily, except 12-4; opened then for small fee) stands
on the site of one built in 1358, and has a great num-
Wv of fine old Flemish pictures (fee to cUmb the tower,
1 fr.). Noire Dame contains some veiled paintings,
shown for a fee of | fr. The choir and nave date from
1186; the tower from 1250. It is the largest brick
tower in Belgium, — 390 ft. high (fee, I fr.). Hand-
some bronze doors ; exquisite marble group of the
Virgin and Child, by Michael Angelo, over the altar.
In chapel on r. (1 fr.), sumptuous ancient tombs ot
Charles the Bold and his daugliter Marie. Carven
pulpit. Large collection of paintings.
The Belfry of Bruges (see Longfellow), one of the
quaint monuments of tlie Comn/unes, is 350 ft. higii,
(fee, -^fr. below, ^ fr. above). The chimes (48 bells)
play every quarter-liour. — The Hotel de Ville (1377)
is a noble Gothic edifice, with 6 towers. — The Hospital
St. Jean, W. of Notre Dame (open daily, except Sun.,
9-12, and- 1-6, -^fr.), is renowned for its marvellous
paintings by Hans Memling. Do not fail to see these.
Tlie Chdsse de Ste. Ursule is the best. The Academy of
Fine Arts (| fr.) has many remarkable picrures by the
old masters. In St. Jacques are brass engraved monu-
ments of Spanish families. — The Chapelle du St. Sang
was built in 1150 as the receptacle for a phial tliat the
Patriarch of Jerusalem had given to Tlieodoric of Elan-
ders, with some drops of the Saviour's blood. Portal
and staircase. Flamboyant Gothic. The P^dai^ de
BELGIUM. 209
Justice (rebuilt, 1723) has a carved c-himney -piece
(1528-29) ill the Court Room (^fr). Bruj^vs, though
decadent and melancholy, is celebrated for pretty
girls and decorated old houses. See statues of
Memling and Jan van Eyck. From Bruges it is f
hr. (fares, 3fr. 40c., 2fr. 55c., Ifr. 70c.) to
Ghent (Hotel Royal; de la JPosie; de Vienne), a
city of 145,000 inhab.. on the river Scheldt. The
town is divided into 26 islands, and has 88 bridges.
The history of Ghent is romantic. It became the capi-
tal of Flanders in 1180. 200 years earlier, Baudouin
had introduced weaving. The great Guilds, under
Jacques van Artevelde^, etc., ruled this region for %
centuries, and often came to blows among themselves,
as on May 2, 1345, when 1,500 men were slain in a
terrible street-battle. In tlie 15th century there were
40,000 weavers ; and the woollen workers alone fur-
nished 18,000 men to the civic army. Charles V. was
born in Ghent in 1500. From the Spanish domina-
tion dates the decline. 11,000 inhab. emigrated at
once to England and Holland. Louis XIY. took the
town after a siege of 6 days, in 1698. In 1810 Napo-
leon I. made a ceremonial entry, with Marie Louise.
Notice tlie Marclie du Vendredi, a great square
surrounded by old houses. In the middle, the politi-
cal forum of Ghent, stands a statue of Van Artevelde.
In the Cathedral of St. Ba';on {oTpen daily, except
12-1) see the vast crypt, built in 991 and restored in
1228 ; the noble nave and transepts (1533) ', and the
tower, built in 1533-34 (416 steps ; fee, 2 fr., 1-4
persons). See the picture of "The Adoration of the
Spotless Lamb," by the brothers Van Eyck. Al-
though more than 400 years old, it preserves its bril-
liancy of coloring. Here also is a cAef-d'oeuvre of
Rubens, Two statues of Sts. Peter and Paul ornament
210 GHENT. — MECHLIN.
the clioir. The Hotel de Fille, built 1481-1628, is a
remarkably beautiful Flamboyant building, whose E.
fayade is very striking. The Belfry, built 1183-1389,
whose bells assembled the citizens, is 38G ft. liigh, and
commands an extensive prospect over Flanders (ascj^it,
2 fr.). There are 44 bells in the chime, including Ro-
land. The Beguinage, the chief curiosity in Ghent, is
a community of women who are not bound by vows,
but live by their own labors or resources. This insti-
tution of secular saints had its origin in the 7<h century.
The old Grand Beguinage formed a separate quarter of
the city, surrounded by walls, and included 18 convejits
and 100 houses. The new suburban one has many'
handsome Gothic houses, aud a vast ch. 600 women
live here, and make rich laces. See 8t. Jacques Ch. \
Sf. Nicholas and St. Michael, crowded with picture s ;
Bt. Pierre, with rare old paintings ; the imposing Fains
de Justice ; the University, with a splendid marjle
rotunda, aud a library in old Baudeloo Monastery
(100,000 vols.) ; aud the M/iseuni (t fr.) The O^idebn -g
is a remnant of the old palace of the Counts of Flandeis,
where John of Gaunt was born, 1340. On Marche
du Veu'li-edi is an old cannon, such as stone missiles
were tired from. See Botanical Giirden (Ghent is
called ' ' The Queen of Flowers "j; Zoological Gai'den
<f''e. Ifr.); y\\\\\s, ol Abbey of St. Bavou. Fai-es from
Ghent.to Brussels, 4fi-. 35c , 3fr. 25c., 2fr. 20c.
From Brjissels to Antiverp trains \ un in 1 iir., pass-
ing Malines, or Mechlin(La Cigogne; Beffer; de 'a
Coui'OJine), a city of 40,000 inhcib., the ecciesiastijal
capital of Belgium In 1572-80 the town was sac];i!d
and burned by the Spaniards, the ti'oops of the Pri 1 3e
of Orange, and Hie English. See the Cathedral of *5 'L
Sombold,hegun in 1451. Imposing interior and ear i ;d
pulpit. Huge tower, 320 ft. high, with a spleuiilid
BELGIUM. 211
ehime of 44 bells. In the S. transept is The
Crucifixion, by Van Dyck. In Notre Dame is
Rubens's Miraculous Draught of Fishes (1 tV.). JwSt.
Jean is a hue Trlpti/ch by Rubens (i li'.). Mechlin is
renowned for its beautiful lace.
Antweip {jliuilI ibc. ^nitotiie; Grand; Commerce;
du Ellin; d' Aiigleterre; Be V Europe; Qrand La-
houreur ; Be la Paix) is one of the most nourishing' com-
mercial towns in Europe (340,000 inhab.), and one of
the quaintest a.nd most replere with historical and artis-
tic interest. Napoleon I. wished to malce Antwerp
a great maritime arsenal, and built vast clocks;
but the Antwerp jjeople have constructed others
yet more vast. Oiimb the Catuedral Tower (75 c),
and look over the crowded Scheldt, and over tiic Low
Countries from Breda to Brussels. Tiie Cathedral
(built 1352-1530) is ihe most imposing ch. in Belgium
(open daily). Wlien closed, ask porter for ke\s
(1 fr.). The innjestic interior (384 ft. long, 130
ft. high) is divided into 7 aisles, by 6 rows of col-
umns. Choir built 1352-1411. Philip II. once held
a Chapter of the Order of the Golden Fleece here.
In 1566 tlie Iconoclasts did irreparable damage. "(See
Motley's " Dutch Republic," for romantic episodes in
Antwerp's history.) In the r. transept is Rubens's
Descent from the Cross, usually kept veiled. In the 1.
transept is R.ubens's The Elevation of the Cross. Above
the high altar is The Assumption, also by Rubens.
See stone outside with the epitaph of Queutin Matsys,
and the sculptured pulpit and tabernacles. The mag-
nificent tower is 402 ft. high (finished 1530) ; the
eiiimes have 99 bells. Napoleon likened this tower to
Mechlin lace. Near the portal is the celebrated iron
well-canopv made by Quentin Matsys. 8t. Paul,
St. Andrem. and St. Antoine contain rare old Flemish
paintings. The Oh. of St. Jacques (built 1429-1507)
313 ROTTERDAM.
contains the tomb of Rubens, and many good pictures
and sculptures (small fee). St. Augustine has pictures
by Rubens, Van Dyck, etc. The Motel de Ville, built
in 1561-65. contains splendid mural paintings (done
in 1864-69) in the Salle Leys. Many old Guild houses
(1513-79) near by. Visit the beautiful new Gothic
Bourse; the Palais de Justice ; and the House of
Ruhens (Rue Rubens), where the painter died. The
Museum (open daily, 9-5) is the best in Belgium: 700
paintings here, with many Rubenses and Van Dycks
(catalogue, S^fr.). For notable private collections
inquire here. The new Boulevards, on the site of the
walls; the vast docks, quays, and warehouses; the
Park: and the statues of Rubens, King Leopold I.,
Van Dyck, and Teniers, are worth seeing. The Cita-
del and fortifications are interesting.
Steamers from Antwerp to Rotterdam thrice
weekly, in 9 hours; fares, 5 fr. 30 c, 3 fr. 20 c. 'To
London, Sun., Wed., and Fri , 34 fr. To London
via Harwich, daily, 34 fr., 26 fr. 70 c. Regular
departures for all the great ports of the world.
HOLLAND.
rpHE tourist may very pleasantly and proiitably
•^ spend 2-3 days in Holland. Go from Ant-
werp (time, 4 hrs. ; fares, 10 fr. 45c., 7 fr. 70c., 4 fr.
90c ) to
Rotterdam {Maas; Leygraaf; Weimar; Goomans;
de Hollande; de V Europe; Victoria), the second city
in Holland (200,000 inhabitants). The Maas is here
navigable for the largest ships; and the scene on the
quay is very animated. Superb docks, and many
canals. The steamboats land passengers near the
HOLLAND 213
Boompjes quay. Here stood the Dutch East India
House, now turned into colonial warehouses. Rot-
terdam builds many ships; has a heavy trade with
Java and Sumatra, and steam lines to London and
other Atlantic ports ; and is a great point for the
departure of emigrants for America. The canals are
bordered with trees, and the suburbs are pleasing.
The Iloogstraat^ the Willen)skade, the new quay, are
worth seeing. The Museum (open daily, 11-3 ; ^ f r. )
has fine examples of Rembrandt, Rubens, Durer,
"Wouvermans, and Ary Scheffer. In the Oroote-Kerk
is a noble organ ; also monuments of several famous
admirals. Good view from the tower, 297 feet high
(60 c.). The Old Ch., the S. Ch., the new Toiv7i
Hall, the Exchmige, the Botanical fxardens, the
Zoological Gardeus, may be easily seen in an after-
noon. The statue of Erasmus stands m the Groote-
Markt; and on the house which was his birthplace
is the inscription, Hcec est parva domus, magnus qua
natus Erasmus. The Neiv Park is W. of the town.
Walk along the Maas, noting the peculiar costume
of the peasantry and tiie singular neatness of the
houses. From Rotterdam to the Hague takes \ hr.
(fares. 1 fl. 20 c, 1 fl. 60 c). On this route is
Schiedam, renowned for its distilleries (see Hotel de
Ville and Hxcltange) ', and Delft (Hotel Lubrechfs),
a very ancient Dutch town, once famous for porce-
lain, but now dull and dignified. The staircase on
which Wilham of Orange was shot (1584) is still
shown. It was from Delft that the Pilgrims embarked
for Plymouth, America (1620). In the Otide Kerk^
see the tomb of Admirals Van Troinp (1653), Hein,
etc. In the Nieuwe Kerk (1412-76) is the magnificent
Mausoleum of William of Orange.
The Hague {Hotel Bellevue; d,es hides; de V Europe;
Vieux Doele7i ; Ce7itral), beautifully situated (0?i<ie
Dobi^in), the capital of Holland (156,000 inhab ), is
214 THE HAGUE. — SCHEVENINGEN.
in summer one of the most charming places in Europe.
It nestles in a delightful forest, where all the character-
istics of Dutch scenery — mossy trees, green banks, and
winding brooks and canals — appear. The Museum (open
free daily, 9-3 ; Sat., 10-1 ; catalogue, 50 c.) contains
the very best examples of the Dutch school of art, and
many other celebrated paintings, — Paul Potter's famous
Bull, Rembrandt's School of Anatomy, the Presenta-
tion in the Temple, etc. On the E. is a statue of Wil-
liam the Silent (1848). In the Buitenhof, statue of
William II. Opposite the Royal Palace, equestrian
statue of Prince William I. See the Marine Museum,
with its wonderful collection of models for ships ; the
Roi/al Library {im,Qm vols.) ; the collection of 40,000
coins and medals ; the Gfoote Kerk, with its beautiful
tombs ; the Kloster Kerk ; the New Ch., where Spinoza
is buried. The ponderous old, Binnenhof Palace and
the Buitenhof square are of great historic interest.
The Grand Council now holds its sessions in the an-
cient torture-room. Beyond the Buitenliof you reach
the gloomy Gevangenport tower, where De Witt was
slain in 1672. In the Willems-Park is the grand Na-
tional Monument (built 1863-69), covered with statues.
The national buildings are plain and substantial. On
the Noordeincle is the Royal Palace, and the old Mu^
seum of King William II. Prince Frederick'' s Palace
is not far from the Park. See the pretty royal villa
called Huis ten Bosch, built in 1647, and filled with
treasures of art (fee, 1 fl ). Erom the Hotel Bellevue,
steam tramway (2^-3 M.) to the pretty seaside resort
of Scheveningen {Grand Hotel des Bains, prices mod-
erate), a fishing-village among the dunes. In summer,
the fashionable world of North Germany, Holland, and
England, and many people from the S., assemble here
Beautiful sea views ajid fine forests, Leyden and Haar-
HOLLAND. 215
Um may be visited between The Hague and Amster*
dam (fares to Amsterdam, 4 fl., 3 fl. 5c., 2 "fl, ; to
Leyden, 80 c., 60 c. , 40 c. ; from Leyden to Haarlem,
1 flo. 40 c.; Ifl., lOc, 70c.).
Leyden {Hotel Lezedag ; Lion cVOr ; Central:
40,000 inhab., famous for the great siege (see Mot-
ley). It possessed 100,000 weavers. Leading ob-
jects of interest; the spacious Hooglandsche Kerk; the
Natural History Museum (open daily, free), witli the
finest cabinet of anatomy in Europe (o})en daily, 2-5,
except Sun ); the Museum of A ?itig uities (oi:)en free
Sun., 12-7, Tues., Thurs., and Sat., 11-4) ; the Jap-
anese Museum (open daily, 50 c.) ; the jVumumatio
(open daily, 12-3) ; the University (600 students),
founded after the siege, with excellent observatoiy ;
Library, 3,000 oriental MSS. (open Mon., Wed.,
and Sat., 12-3) ; the Botanic Gardens (E. Indies
plants) ; and the old Castle of Hrusus. The Hr.el de
Ville has many inscriptions relative to the siege of
1574.
Haarlem {Lion d'Or ; Filnckler ; Leeuwerik) is
a town of 28,000 inhab. The siege by the Span-
iards in 1572, and the heroic defense, are de-
scribed in Motley's picturesque history. The GatJie-
dral is very spacious ; 28 columns in the nave. The
vast organ, with 5,000 pipes, is played Tues. and
Thurs., 1-2 ; at other times 12 fl. for a party. Visit
the interior. Marble crypt under the organ. From
the tower extensive view. See the Teyler Afiiseum;
the statue of Coster, inventor of printing with metal
types ; Coster's House ; the Museum of JSatural His-
tory ; and the house of the rich banker, Hope,
Amsterdam {Amstel; PaysBas; OldBiUe; Brack's
Doelen ; Rondeel ; Americain; Palais Royal) is a
city of 400,000 inhab., named from the Amstel,
an inlet of the Zuider Zee, communicating with
the North Sea, by the N. Holland Canal, 50 M.
216 AMSTERDAM.
long, the most gigantic undertaking at the time ever
execute'd. It commences opposite Amsterdam, and ex*
tends to the Holder and the Texel ; cost $5,000,000.
The town is built upon piles driven into the sand. Its
canals are spanned by more than 300 bridges. The
finest view is from the Hooge Sluys. Near by is St.
Anthony's Gate, with 5 towers (built 1488-1585). The
Palace is a huge stone structure, standing on 13,695
piles. Neai- it are the Bam, the memorial of 1831, the
Exchange^ the Fost-Office, the Nieuwe Kerk, the Sea-
man's Club. From the tower, one has a ma.gmu-
cent panorama of the city. Fine marble sculp-
tures on the palace front. The Throne Hall, the
Grand Hall, decorated with trophies, and the Au-
dience Hall, are remarkable (fee, 50 c). The Botan-
ical and Zoological Gardens (latter, 75 c.) are equal to
those of any oilier city. TJie principal museum (free
daily, 10-3), the Trippenhuis, has the best collection of
paintings in Holland (get catalogue). Note the works
of Rembrandt. This and the Vanderhoof collection are
now in Ryks Museum. The Oude Mannenhuis is open,
10-4. The Fodor 3Imeum has very good Fi-ench and
Butch pictures. The Historical Gallerij is devoted to
episodes in Dutch history (open daily, 50 c. ; catalogue
75 c). See Fos Museum; statue of Rembrandt ; monu-
ment to Yan Speyk ; Blind Asylum ; Zeemanshoop
(Sailors' Hope), a club with 2,000 members ; Normal
School of Navigation ; Sailor s Home ; great range of
state warehouses, on Etitrepot Dock; Park, good music
on Sun. ; shops where diamonds are polished ; Jewish
quarter J Cellular Prison; and Crystal Palace. Am-
sterdam is the cleanest city in "Europe; on a bright
Sunday it presents a charming spectacle. Notice the
Fountain, commemorating the events hi 1830-31 lu
the old ch on the Dam, monument to Van Ruyter
UTRECHT. 217
Pleasant excursions to Barmen, and other pretty sub-
urban towns. Broek, 6 M. out, is a wonderfully clean
village. At Zaandam is the house where Peter the
Great worked when learning the shipwright's k'ade.
Good fish dinners here. It is 1 hr. (23 M. ; fares, 1 fl.
70 c, 1 fl. 25 c, 85 c.) from Amsterdam to
Utrecht {Kastcel van Antwerpen; Pays B as ; de
V Europe; de la Station), the l\oman Trajedum, and
the home of many Dutch families of rank. Noble
Cathedral here; constructed in the 13lh century,
and much tried by hurricanes and iconoclasts.
The people of Utrecht boast that from the tower,
321 ft. high, you can see all Holland. In the
church, fine organ and magnificent mausoleums.
South of the cathedral is the U nimrsitp , founded
in 1636, very rich ; 600 students ; splendid li-
brary and remarkable Museum of JS'atii.ral His-
tory. The Palace of the Popes, founded by
Adrian VI., with a statue of St. Salvador, is now
the palace of the provincial government. Adrian was
born in Utrecht. In the Stad/mls are a ie\Y pictures,
J'ine new boulevards around the city.
From Utrechu you can begin your journey up the
Rhine. Take rail to jJitsseldorf, passing Arnhem, thj
Arenacum of the ancients. Th: Romans encamped
here 70 years B.C., and i*; was for a long time the resi^
deuce oi th Dukes i Guelders. See the Cathedral,
with tomb of Count .5gmont. Tower, 333 ft. high;
wonderful chimes. The Palace of Justice has ^ fine
court-room. Emmerich {^Hotei de Hollande) is the
firsi German towu.
218 DiJSSELDORF. — COLOGNE.
GERMANY AND AUSTRIA.
•
FROM Utrecht to Emmerich, 4 fl. 50 c, 3 fl. 40 c,
2 ii. 25 c. i 54i M. From Emmerich ^o Diissel-
dorf, fares, 7 mks. 60 pt., 5 mks. 70 pf., 3 inks. 80 pf. ;
to Cologne, 11 risks. 20 pf., 8 mks. 40 pf., 5 mks.
yOpf. ; to Eiaukfovt, 28 mks. 80 pf., 21 mks, 20 pf.,
13 mks. 50))f.
Diisseldorf {BreidenbacJier Ilof ; Royal ; Heck;
Momischer Kaiser),H,citj of 210,000 iiihab. , is the prin-
cipal art-centre on the Rhine. The Academy of Arts
was founded in 1767 ; it occupies Renaissance build-
ing erected m 1879; contains lecture-halls, studios,
etc. Here, also, are the remains of the famous
Gallery of Art, and many drawings, of all schools
(open Mon., Wed,, Pri., and Sat., 12-1). Handsome
Rhine Bridge; Hofgarten,next to Pempelfurtergarten
(now Malkasten Club), haunts of Goethe and Herder.
Ch. of St. Lambert contains the tombs of the last
Dukes of Cleve and Berg, and a good picture by
Achenbach. /S/. ^/i<ire2<.''s is very interesting. In the
hall of the Realschule is a freize by Bendemann, In
the Courts of Justice see Schadow's " Heaven, Hell,
and Purgatory." Many fine modern paintings in the
Kuustlialle. See statues of Elector John William 111.,
Cornelius, Emperor William 1., Bismarck. Museum
of Industry and Art will repay visit. Several exhi-
bitions of pictures in the town; fees, 50 pf. It is ^-f
hr. by rly,, or by boat 5 hrs., to
Cologne {Hotel du Nord ; Disch; Kolner Hof;
Victoria; Du Dome; Ernst), the sixth town in the
German Empire (360,000 inhab.), and an important
garrison. Streets are dark, narrow and mediaeval.
Many houses date from the 13th century. 70 wide
COLOGNE. 219
streets have lately been laid out. Cologne was founded
by the Ubii, when Agrippa transfei-red them to the 1.
bank of the Rhine ; and colonized by Roman veterans
when Germanicus held command, as Colonia Agrippina.
It was tlie residence of the legates of Lower Germany.
Constantine the Great built a bridge here in 308,
afterwards destroyed by the Normans. From the 5tli
century it was a part of the Frankish kingdom. Exten-
sive Roman remains here.
The Cathedral, the grandesl Gothic building in the
world, was begun iu 1248. The choir was consecrated
in 1322, and the nave in 1388 ; but about 1500 the
work ceased, and in 1795 the French troops used the
half-ruinous ch. for a hay-magazine. Construction was
resumed in 1823, and more than $3,000,000 spent
upon it between 1842 and 1880, when it was consecrated,
with imposing ceremonies. The superb W.faqade and
lofty portals are flanked by 2 huge towers, crowned
by open spires, over 500 ft. high. The bells were
placed in the S. tower in 1447; and in 1874 a new
30-ton bell, made from French cannon, was added. A
forest of flying buttresses joins the nave and aisles.
The total length is 444 ft. ; breadth, 201 ft. ; height of
nave, 145 ft. There are 4 aisles ; and the triple-aisled
transepts extend to the imposing N. and S. portals.
Tlic-re are 56 vast columns inside. The sfamed win-
dows in the N. aisle dare from 1508-9 ; those in the
S. aisle (equally beautiful) are Munich work of 1848.
The Choir contains 14th-century statues of the 12
Apostles, 15th-century carved stalls, ancient stained
windows, modern fresces of angel-choirs, modern tap-
estries, and 7 wonderful chapels, with venerable tombs
of the archbishops, the Bavarian Electors, etc. The
reliquary in the Chapel of the Three Kings contains
the bones of the Magi, carried to Constantinople bjf
220 COLOGNL.
the Empress Helena, thence to Milan, and preai?nted
by Barbarossa to Cologne's archbishop in 1164. Tl?.
heart of Marie de Medicis is buried liere. The Librari^
contains Hildebald's precious MSS. ; and many deeply
inleresiiiig relics are in the Treasury and in the Archie
epii^co'pal Museum, S. of the ch. See inner and outer
galleries of the choir. The ch. is open all day, but
walking about is not allowed during service.
Over the rly. -bridge are equestrian statues of Fred-
erick William' IV. and VV illiain 1. W. of the Cathedral
is the great Gothic Museum (open 9-4, 50 ])f.) with
many hundred paintnigs, and very interesting Koman
and mediaeval relics. In the adjaceni Mii^orites' Ch.,
Duns Scotus is buried. Beautiful Gothic cloisters.
Sf. Gereons Ch. (fee, Imk.), contains the bones ef the
Theban Legion, martyred at Cologne, under Diocletic^n.
Skulls and bones of the martyrs to be seen in the choir.
Curious crypt. In ^5'/. Ursula is the tomb of tha^
unhappy prineeas, who, with her 11,000 virgin com-
panions, was massacred at Cologne on her return from
Rome. The ch. (5th century; resTored) has a Gothic
portal. You are shown the bones of the mart^yrs in all
parts of the ch. In the Treasury (fee, \\ mk ) is St.
Ursula's Reliquary. Great St. Martin has a majestic
tower, and an exquisite baptismal font, given by Pope
Leo II. Sta. MMria-Im-Capif(jl, consecrated in 1049
by Pope Leo IX., is an imposing Kon^anesque ch. St.
Peter lias an altar-piece by Rubens, o/. Cecilia dates
from 1200. li^he. J pasties' Ch. (1200) has a picturesque
choir. St. Cumbert (1248) lias rich frescos and glass.
See the Gurzenieh; the Roman Tower ; the house in
which Marie de Medicis died in exile and poverty; the
Mon.ument to Frederick William III., surrounded by
statues of statesmen and generals who relieved the
Rhine from French domination ; and the bronze statue
AIX-LA-CHAPELLE. 221
of Bismarck. The RafJihans (13tli century) has the
Lion's Court, and tlie quaint iiall in which tiie first Diet
of the Hanseatic League was held. See Botanic and
Zoological Gardens, and the manj' " original and only '*
shops where the Farina Eau de Cologne is sold.
l|hr. from Cologne (fares, 6 mks., 4| mks., 3mks.),
on the rout&s to Belgium and Paris, is Aix-la-Cha-
pelle {Hotel Grand Monarqve ; Nuellens ; De VEm-
perenr ; Belleoue ; Dragon d'Or), the Aachen of the
Germans and the Aquisgrannm of the Bomans. This
was the favorite residence of Charlemagne, and here he
died in 814. Aix was at one time the capital of all the
country N. of tlie Alps. 37 German emperors were
crowned here. For centuries the Imperial Diets were
lield here. The modern town is handsome, with the
1 characteristics of a watering-place. The warm Snlphur
I Springs were renowned in the Roman era, and wonder-
j fid cures are still effected by them. The most impor-
j tant is the Kaiserquelle. At the Elisenhrunnen crowds
I assemble daily in summer to drink the waters. The
y Kt'.rhaus has a superb concert-hall (fee, 50 pf.). In
I the Market-place is a fountain, with statue of Charle-
magne. Tlie great Cathedral is in two sections : the
quaint-roofed Byzantine octagon (in the style of San
Vitale, at Ravenna), built by Charlemagne, 796-804,
and consecrated iDf Pope Leo III. ; and the lofty choir,
in the best Gothic style (1353-1413). The octagon
contains many fine columns, brought from Rome and
I Ravenna; bronze doors, cast in 804; and the pulpit,
rich in gold and gems, presented by Henry IT. See
the stained windows, designed by Cornelius; and the
1 14th-century statues. The tomb of Charlemagne was
I opened by Otho TIT. hi 1000; and by Barbarossa in
jllOS when tlie body was removed from the marble
Hhrone on which, it was seated, and placed in a Parian
222 AIX-LA-CHAPELLE — BONN.
sarcophagus. The throne (afterwards used in tin
coronation ceremonies) and the sarcophagus are noif
in the gallery. The bones of Charlemagne are en-
shrined in the Treasury, where are also the girdles of
Christ and Mary, a piece of the True Cross, etc. (Open
daily, 9-1, 3-6 ; 3 mks. for 1-3 persons.) Notice the
old Flemish paintings inside of the cabinet-s. Some of
the holy treasures, such as the swaddling-clothes of the
infant Saviour, are shown but once every 7 years.
The Rathhaus was built out of tlie (h'hru of the pal-
ace of the Carlovingian emperors (1376). The Ball of
the Emperors (75 pf.) has noble frescos. The Warriors^
Monume7it commemorates the soldiers slain in 1&66 and
1870-71. Suermofidf Museum has some good pictures.
Up the Rhine by Steamer^
The journey can be made in 1 day from Cologne to
Mayence. It is better to take 2 days, stopping at
Coblence. There is a rly. on either bank, but the steam-
boat is preferable. If, however, you wish to go frojn
Cologne to Frankfort by rail, you can do so in 4 hrs.
(fares, 12 mks., 9 mks., 6 mks.). By steamboat (large
and tine boats) the fares from Cologne to Coblence are
3 mks. 60 pf., 2 mks. 40 pf; by the express boat the
fare is 3 mks. 70 pf. From Coblence to Mayence, 3 mks.
70 pf, 2| mks. ; by express boat, 4i mks. Through
tickets allow stopping otf, but be careful to resume the
journey by the boats of the same company. You can
take rail from Cologne to Bonn (21 M. ; fares, 2|- mks. ,
If mks., 1 mk. 80 pf.); from Cologne to Coblence
(7 mks. 70 pf., 5 mks. 60 pf., 3 mks. 90 pf.) ; from
Coblence to Frankfort (10 mks. 40 pf., 6 mks. 90 pf.,
4 mks. 40 pf . )
Bonn (Goldener Stern, capital house; Du JSford;
Kley; Royal; Rheineck) has a beautiful location.
UP THE EHINE. 223
eiust beyond, the banks become bold and pre-
cipitous, and the beauties of the famous stream
begin. The University occupies the okl castle,
built in 1717-30 as an electoral palace, and 1,800 ft.
long. It has a library of 250,000 vols.; museums
of Roman and Teutonic antiquities and of Arts
(75 pf . each ; catalogues for sale). See bronze
statue of Beethoven in the Miinsterplatz. The Ca-
thedral, founded by the mother of Constantiue, is a
crucitbriii basihca, with two clioirs and a high octagonal
tower. Bi'onze statue of the Em]n-ess Helena inside.
Beethoven's birthplace is in the Boungasse. The Po/j.
yelsdorfer Schloas, reached by a quadruple avenue oi
horse-chestnuts ^ M. long, contains a very large natural-
history collection (fee, 75 pf.). Chemical Laboratory
near by. The Aiiatorde, a noble edifice, liuished in
1872, is not far off. Be^'ond Poppelsdorf is \\\q Kreuz.
berg, 400 I't. high, on which is a ch. containing the
B-olij Siulrcaae, built in imitation of that at Home, and
to be mouuted on the knees only. Bonn was the Cas~
tra Boniieima of Tacitus, a great Roman fortress. It
has suffered terrible sieges. The Coblemerdraase is very
handsome. The Procburial Miuseum, and the Home of
Arndtave interesting. On the A/te ZoU is the Moiuimerit-
toArndt. In tlie cemetery are buried Niebuhr tiie his-
torian, Schiegel, Robert Sclmmami, Arudt, and ^oji
Buuiicn.
Konigswinter (/Jo/tiZ de rEnropt; Jlaltem ;
Rieffel; Munopol), on the E. bank of the Rhine, is
the poini whence to visit the Siebengebirge. The
Drachenfels (916ft high) may be ascended don-
key bairk, ui carriages, or by cog-wheel rail-
way. Eaif-way up is the far-viewing tower on
the Hirschherg. To the W. is the Monument
in memory of the events of 1813-15. The Castle
stands near the Terrace (wliere 'here is a good
224 ROLANDSECK. — NONNENWERTH.
hotel). It was built about 1100 by the first arclibishop
of Culogue, and takes its uame from a dragon slaiu
tliere by Siegfried, the Niebeluugeu hero. The red
wine made from its vineyards is called Drugotis Blood,
The castle was destroyed by Ferdinand of Bavaria, after
a long siege, llnins still magnificent. Superb view
of the Seven Mts., the basalt cliffs behind Remagen,
Ober winter, the ruins of Holandseck, Bonn, and Co-
logne. See the cavern where the fabled dragon had
Lis abode. An excursion may be made to the Oelherg,
the view from which is the most extensive in the Rhiue-
laud. Thence it is 1^ lir. to Heisterbach, an old Cis-
tercian abbey, in a beautiful valley. Little is left of
the magnificent ch., built about 1200. From the Oei-
berg, the Lowenhurg (1,504 ft.), a castle where the
Elector of Cologne had interviews with Melancthou
before becoming a Protestant, may be reached. Fins
view. Return from Heisterbach to Konigswinter in f lir.
by the Peters berg, whence good view. Konigswinter is
aear most charming scenery.
The boat touches at Rolandseck {B:oiel Roland'
seek; Victoria; Decker; BeUevue)^ ^ hr above Ko-
nigswinter. From restaurant at the railway sta-
tion, fine view of the Seven Mts., and the Rhine
«o Remagen. Rolandseck is a very popular sum-
mer-resort. Ruined Castle stands on a basalt
rock, 347 ft. above the Rhine. It was founded
fcy Roland, the Paladin of Charlemagne, who died at
itoncesvalles. The island of Nonnenwerth, where
stands the convent in which the beautiful llildegardt;
Is said to have taken the veil when she heard that
Roland had perished in Spain, may be reached by a
6U)ull boat (return-fare, ] mk.). This convent is men*
tioned in a document of the 12th centuiy. It was sup-
pressed in 1802, reconsecrated in 1845, and closed
ftgaiii \u 1876. See Bulwer's Filgrims of the Rhine^
UP THE KHINE. 225
and Rchiller's ballad of Ritter Toggenburg. At Rliein-
hreitbacJb (W. bank) is a large town, with towers, at
the entrance of a valley filled with copper-mines. At
TJiikel (W. bank) the cliffs stand out into the bed of
the stream, producing: a rapid. Just above is
Remagen {Hotel Fur stenberg ; Koniiig von Preus-
sen; Rliem ; Anker), noticeable for its church on
the Apollinarisberg (a hill to the N ). a pretty
Gothic edifice with four towers, entirely modern, on
on the site of an old pilcfrimage-shrine of the Middle
Ages. It was built by Zwirner, architect of Cologne
Cathedral, and contains 10 grand frescos, masterpieces
of modernGermanart(open7 A.M. to8 p m.; Sun. after
10; fee, 30pf.). The legend states that when the Arch-
bishop of Cologne was descending the Rhine (in 1164)
with the bones of the Magi and the hend of St. Apol-
linaris. Bishop of Ravenna, his boat was stopped here,
by some mysterious power, until tlie latter was placed
in the chapel on this site. Remagen was a Roman
town {Rigomagns) , but lost its importance in the
Thirty Years' War. Beautiful excursions thence,
between bc^ld basaltic hills, up the Valley ofthe Ahr^
where 4.000 000 bots. of red wine are produced yearly..
It is 7 M. (carriage, 4 mks.) to the Baths of NeuenahVy
a charming watering-place, with warm alkali spriijgs^
used for lung and liver diseases. Ahrweiler, a quaint,
little walled town, has fine view from Calvarienberg,
Ruined castles and pretty villages abound.
Opposite Remagen, over ^>7^e/ (E. hank) is a basaltic,
cliff 642 ft. high. "Linz {Weinstock) is an ancient
town on the W. bank, with walls and pavements of
basalt, and a 13th century Romanesque ch., contain-
ing a triptych of the ancient Cologne school of art.
The adjacent hills have interesting basalt-quarries,,
and crosses commemorating the battles of Leipsic and
Waterloo rise on two of them. Arenfels castle, above
226 HAMMERSTEIN. — ANDERNACH.
Liiiz, lately restored, lias an ancient round tower, and,
in the Knights' Hall, a collection of armor. Rheiiieck
(W. bank), the boundary betvi^een tlie upper mid lower
Klienisk districts, is a lofty Romanesque castle on the
site (and with a tower) of the fortress of the Rheinach
family, founded in the 12tli century. It may be visited
from Brohl (| hr.), and has some fine paintings (fee,
50-75 pf.) and a superb view^ It w^as sacked by the
Freneh in 1689 and by ti'oo]3S of Cologne in 1692.
Farther up, near Brohl, is Hammerstein, a lOth-ceu-
tury castle, w^here Henry IV. took refuge from his sons,
and which w^as held, during the Thirty Years' War, by
Swedes, Spaniards, Germans, and Lorrainers, In 1660
the Archbishop of Cologne destroyed this too pow^erful
neighbor, Roman ruins 4 M. E.
Andernacli {IrLotel Hackenbrucli ; Glocke), on the
"W . bank, lias narrow streets, ancient walls, a niany-
tow^ered Romanesque ch. (1206), and a lofty watch-
tower, built in 1414-68, and breached by French guns
in 1688. It w^as one of tlie 50 forts of D^'usus ; re-
captured, from the Alemanni by Julian in 339 ; a
royal Franconian residence in the 6th century ; an im-
perial town later ; stormed })y Cologne troops in 1496 ;
and burned by the Fi-ench in 1688. The deep moat
and massive towers of the castle remain (see Long-
fellow's 7:(%y(??7o;i/). Tramway to the Benedictine Abbey
of Laach, founded in 1093, with magnificent Roman-
esque ch. and cloisters, on the vast crater-lake of the
Laacker See (6 M. around).
The Rhine now flow^s throngii a defile, between
rnu'ged heights. Neuwied {Goldenev Anker;
Wilder Mann; Moramaii), on the E., has the
palace and park of the Prince of Wied, and a com-
munity of austere Moravian Brethren, v.'itli admira-
ble schools and workshops. Morirepo.^ is a chateau
of the Prince, near by ; and AUwied, 31 M. out (car-
UP THE EHINE. 227
riage, 4 inks.), is a picturesque ruined castle. Weissen-
thurm is opposite Neuwied, witli a Avliite watch-tower
marking the boundaries of Treves and Cologne. Above
is an obelisk to General Hoche, erected by a French
army crossing the Rhine in 1797- Near Engers (E.
bank) are fragments of Roman masonry, supposed to
be parts of Julius Ca3sar's bridge across the lihine (see
Commentaries). Miihlhofen (E. bank) is 1^ M. from
the ruins of Sayn castle, and the great modern cha-
teau of Sayn, rich in art. Kesselheim (W. bank) is
near Schonbornslust, an old palace of the electors of
Treves and of the exiled Bourbons. On Niederwerth
island, where Edward III. of England lived in 1337, is
an old convent ch. At Neuendorf the small timber-
rafts from the Upper Rhine and Moselle are enlarged
and strengthened, before drifting Holland ward. The
high fortress of Ehrenbreitstein now comes into view,
and the palace of the Prussian King.
Coblenz {Gia7it ; Bellevue ; Monopol ; Anker;
Traube), the capital of Rhenish Prussia (40,000
inhab.), is at the confluence of the Rhine and Moselle,
wheMce the Romans called it Confluentia. It is a pow-
erful fortress, w/tli heights crossed with enormous forti-
fications, and a garrison of 5,U00 soldiers. The Palace
was built by tne lasf Elector of Treves, and contains
inte;-esting JElectoral Hall and Festival Hall, with por-
traits, tapestries, etc. (fee, 25 pf.). The Mahizer-Thor
and others of the city gates are worthy of notice. St.
Castor is a handsome 4-towered basilica, founded iu
836 and rebuilt in 1208. Before it v^ the historic
Castor Fountain. The Moselle Bridge (14 arches) dates
from 1344. Monument of Emperor William I. at
junction of Rhine and Moselle. Archiepiscopal Palace
(now a factory) dates from 1276; the Liebfrauenkirclie^
from th« 13th century; the Merchants' Hall, from
228 EHRENBREITSTEIN. — EMS.
1480. The Rhine Tromenade is a beautiful waterside
park. The Kuhkopf, 1,190 ft. high, commands a grand
view over the Rliine and Moselle valleys. Fort Franz,
on the Petersberg, and Forts Alexander and Constantine
(superb view hence) guard the city. Across the Rhine
is Ehrenbreitstein, " Honor's Broad Stone " (open
daily; small fees for ticket and to guide), "Tiie Gibraltar
of the Rhine/' a vast fortress on a precipitous rock,
387 ft. above the river, and commanding a wonderful
view. It was granted by King Dagobert to the arch-
bishops of Treves in 636, and has been beleaguered
many times, but yielded only twice. The French de-
stroyed the works in 1801 ; but they were rebuilt,
1816-26, at a cost of $6,000,000.
Excursions from Coblence. — It is 1 hr.'s rly. ride
(1^ mk., 1 mk., 70 pf.), or 7 M. walk from Ehrenbreitstein
to Ems {Hotel d'Angleterre; De Russie; Des Quatre
Saisons ; Darmstad^, a little town on the Lahn,
amid wooded heights,anniially visited byl2, 000 health-
seekers (season, July 15-Sept. 1). The waters (saline
and alkaline) are beneficial in pulmonary and female
complaints, and have been used since 1354. The Kur-
haus and Kursaal are the centre of the exotic life, and
stand amid pleasant gardens.
Up the Moselle, by steamer 1171 M. (6 mks,,
4 mks.), 4 times weekly, in 1^ days, passing' the night
at Trarhach, and reaching Treves at 3 P.iv. Voyage
back to Coblence, 12 hrf . (8 mks., 5 mks. 30 pf.). Rly.
to Treves in 2| hrs. (69^ M. ; fares, 9 mks., 6 mks.
80 pf., 4^ mks.). The valley of the Moselle is very
beautiful, and interesting historically. Over Cobern is
a wonderful pilgrimage-chapel; over Brodenhach the
splendid Ehrenburg ruin ; over Cochem, twG fine
castles and a monastery; over Trarbarh, the ancient
Grafinbnrg ; and near JS'ettmagen, Roman ruins.
UP THE MOSELLE. 239
Treves ( Hotel de Treves; Porta Nigra; Luxem-
bourg; /Stadt Venedig; Post), on the Moselle, was
the capital of the Treviri ; then the Auousta
Trpvirorum of the Romans ; then capital of Gaul,
ar-d Rome's rival in art and commerce. This oldest
city of Germany has only 40,000 inhab. ; although
its well-preserved amphitheatre, in which Constantine
delivered thousands of Franks to be torn by wild
beasts (a.d. 806), accomniodaies 30,000 spectators.
The vast ruins of the Roman Baths were connected
Tvith the Palace of the Emperors. The Porta Nigra is a
huge Roman gateway of blackened sandstone, 115 ft,
long and 93 ft. high. The Catliedral dates from 550, —
a vast structure, under which repose the archbishops
and electors of Treves. Here are preserved Christ's
seamless robe, a nail from the Cross, a fragment of the
Crown of Thorns. Cloisters run thence to the Lieh-^
frauenkirche, a beautiful circular ch. (1243). Tlie
Basilica, built before Constantine, successively a Ro-
man court-house, exchange, imperial governors' palace,
bishops' palace, and barrack, is now a ch. The Museum
and Town Library contain rare MSS., portraits, and
Roman antiquities. Rly. from Treves to Thionville
and Luxembourg (| hr.).
Ascending the Rhine from Coblenz, Capellen {Hotel
Slolzenfels ; Hotel Bellevue) is reached (W. bank),
over which rises the royal castle of Stohenfels (en^
trance, 25pf. ; donkeys to ride up and back, Im. 20pf.),
420 ft. above the Rhine, with a magnificent view. It
was built in 1250 by the Archbishop of Treves, and
ii^ihabited by his successors. The French destroyed it
in 1688; and since 1823 it has been restored by the
Prussian King. Rich historica I frescos in Chapel and
Knights' Hall; many rare old pictures and curiosities.
Oberlahnstein ( Welter; L!inhor7i), opp. Capellen
(fei-ry every f hr., 10-20 pf.), near the lately restored
S30 BOPPAKD. — ST. GOAR.
castle oi Lahneck. Above Capellen is Konigsstuhl,
■where the 4 Rhenish Electors used to meet, in open
air, to elect emperors and conclude treaties. The Em-
peror Charles IV. built a castle here in 1376. Farther
up is Rhense (W.), with walls and a moat constructed
fey the Archbishop of Cologne hi 1370. Braubnch is
tinder Marksburg, an imposing castle 492 ft. above
the Rhine, founded before 1400, and still uninjurer"
and inhabited. Old Swedish and French cannon here.
'BoTp'pdirdiZum Spiegel; llirsch; Glosmann; Rliein;
Lange), on the W". bank, was a Celtic town : forti-
fied by the Romans, and named Bodobriga :
headquarters of the 13th Legion ; seat of a lodge
of Knights Templar ; and an Imperial town. The
inner wall is Roman, the outer wall mediaeval ;
and tlie two churches date from 1200 and 1500.
The high-placed Marienberg, formerly a Benedictine
nunnery, is now a water-cure. The situation is lovely,
in a broad bend of the Rhine, above which the mis.
recede, giving place to rich meadows and green fields.
Opposite pretty Salzig, famous for cherries, are twin'
rocky peaks, whereon rise the ruined castles of Ste?'n-
berg and Liebenstein, to which attaches the legend of
Conrad, Heinrich, and Hildegarde. Over Welmich (E.)
rises the castle of Thurnherg, finished in 1363, and then
derisively called The Mouse.
The handsome old town of St. Goar (founded ir
570) is overlooked by the grandest ruin on the river,
the famous Rheinfels, dating from 1 245 ; besieged by
26 Rhenish towns in 1255; held by the French,
1758-63, 1794-97, and blown up by them; and now
royal property. St, Goarshausen (steam-£erry to
St. Goar) is under the castle called The Cat, built in
1393, and blown up by the French in 1804. Many
charming excursions from either of these towns. The
noble and well-preserved ruin of Reichenberg castle
OBERWESEL — BACHAKACH. 231
(1280) is 3 M. E. The picturesque Swiss Valley is
oack of St. Goarsliauseu. Above is the Lurlei rock,
a precipice 433 ft. high, rising over whirlpools iu the
deepest and narrowest ])art of the Rhine, and the fabled
seat of a siren who lured sailors to death. Farther up
are the Seoen Virgins' rocks, with their ^-rini legend.
OberTvasel {Continental; Goldener Pfropfen-
zieher), on the W. ; a picturesque Roman town, rich in
wine and scenery ; beloved by artists, who haunt the
gray old walls, the massive medigeval towers, the 15th-
century Ch. of Our Lady, with rare old carvings and
pictures, and the Chapel on the riverward wall, coni-
niemorating a terrible deed in 1386. Above all,
Schonburg, the lofty castle, the birthplace of Marshal
Schomberg, who lies in Westminster Abbey. This
nuuiy-towered cradle of a race of warriors was de-
molished by Louis XIA^'s troops in 1CS9 Caub,
abounding in Avine (see statue of Bliicher), is under
the castle of Gutenfels, btult in 1277, and destroyed
in 1807. Above is the Pfalz, a hexagonal fortress in
the middle of the Rhine, bidlt by Lewis of Bavaria
about the year 1200. Thence he used to swoop down
upon passing vessels, and exact tribute. Hereabouts,
Eliicher's and York's Prussian and Russian armies
crossed the Rhine, Jan. 1, 1S14.
Bacharach(i7(5^(?Z Rerbrec7if,BIuc'herfhal.Ba.stian)
on the W. bank; a favorite resort; its wines, celebrated
in Longfellow's Golden Legend, still entitle it to the
name Ara Bacchi (altar of Bacchus), which the Middle-
Ages men gave it. The great fire of 1372 destroyed
many rare old houses ; but the gray walls, descending
from Stahleck, still envelop tlie town : and the beau-
tiful Gothic ruin of St. Werner .s Cfi., and the st*»tely
Romanesque St. Peter^s Church (now restored), still
stand fast. Overhead i>> Stah.eck enstle, the home
'232 LORCH. — BINGEN.
of the Counts Palatine until 1265, besieged 8 ^iines
by tlie Freucli betAveeu 1620 and 1640. and blovn uti
iu 1689. Fiirsteuberg, another noble ruin, is near
by. The robber-knights fired thence on the ship Id
which Adolph of Nassau was descending to Aix-la-
Chapelle, to be crowned Emperor (1292). Excursion
up the narrow Stee^ valley ; also to Kreuznacli.
Lorcb {TMel WeiMer;' Krone), on E. bk. , the Koman
Laureacum, has a Elamboyant 12tli-century ch., with
quaint monuments and fine bell*. Near by, over the
beoU's Ladder cliff, is Nollingen castle. Niederheim"
bach (W. bank) is under Hohneck, or Heimburg castle.
Above is Sooneck castle, built in 1015 by tlie Arch-
bishop of Mayence ; and Falkenburg, or the Reichen-
stein, destroyed as a robbers' nest by the Khenish
towns (1251), and again by Rudolph of liapsburg, mIio
hung its knights from the windows. Rheinstein,
farther up (A¥. bank), is a picturesque castle, built be-
fore 1279, and restored 1825-29 by Prince Frederick
of Prussia, who is buried here (e^^trance, \ mk.).
Assmannshausau {Hotel Krone ; Rhein ; ReU'
tershafi; JViederw<Ud; Lamm: Anker) on the E.,
exports aromatic red wine all over the w^orld. Above
is the rapid of the Binger Loch, where the raftsmen
have hard work. Ehrenfels (E. bank) is a high toAver,
built in 1210 by the Governor of the lllieingau, dam-
aged by the Swedes in 1635, and demolished by the
French in 1689. Beyond are the terraced slopes which
produce the Riidesheim wine. Opposite Ehrenfels, on
quartz ledges hi the stream, is the Mouse Tower,
where, as legend tells. Archbishop Hatto of Mayeuce
. was devoured alive by mice because he caused a crowd
of famine-stricken peasants to be burned to death, com-
paring them to corn-destroying mice.
Bingen(Z?o)^6^ Victoria ;Bellevv e/Weisaes Ro.<is/^A?b'
gleterre), under the heights at mouth of Nahe, amid
METZ. 233
cliarmiu*^ scenery, where the Rliiue bends around the
Niede/'wcikl, on which is the new National Monument,
with \m^Q bronze statues, etc. On tlie Drususberg are
the ruins of /iTZo^p, once a Roman casth), destroyed by
the French in lOrfi). The Rochusberg (341 ft. high)
o^erloolcs the beautiful Rheingau ; the Nieder-wald
gives another ravisiiing view. Illy, from Riidesheim
to Wiesbaden, Erankfort, Ems, and Nassau ; and from
Ringerbriick to Mayence, Coblence, Cologne, and
Kreuznach [Oranianhof; Adler), a prettily situ-
ated watering-place, where 6-8,000 persons go yearly
I'or the salt-baths, efficient in cutaneous troubles,
From Bingerbriick one can go, by the Frankfort-Paris
route, to Metz in 8-9 hrs. (fares, 17 mks. 90 pf.,
13 mks., 8 mks. 60 pf.), passing Kreuznach ; Oherstein,
a beautiful village on the Nahe, devoted to polishing
agates ; NeunJcircken ; and Saarbracken, 3 M. N. of the
battle-ground of Spicheren (1870 ; carriage to field,
12 mks. Metz {Grand Hotel; Post: Be Metz; De
PaWs), a city of 62,000 inhab., on the Moselle, once the
capital of the kingdom of Austrasia, was seized by France
in 1552, and regained by Germany in 1870, after a pro-
lo!iged siege, and several terrible battles near Gravelotte
and Mars-la-Tour, on the W. (see local guides). Since
theii the victors have q:reatiy extended the vast fortress.
Visit interesting E. side of town. The Cathedral is a
n:agnincent 13th century Gothic ch., with a tower
387ft. high. In front is a statue of Louis XIV.'s
Marshal Fabert. Statues of Marshal Ney and Emp.
William I on Esplanade, near Palace of Justice.
Riidesheim {Rhei7istem; Erliard; Dar?n.'^tadt ;
Jung), op. Bingen, has rich wines, far-viewing heights,
wild legends, and a Roman fortress. Farther up
^s Geisenheim, with monasteries and vineyards. On
Hhe heights is Johannisberg, where, on the site of a
234 MAYENCB.
Benedictine convent of 1106, tlie Abbot of Fulda buill
a castle, afterwards granted to Prince Metternicb, and
now amid the best vineyards on the Rhine, and com-
manding a superb view. Beautiful walks from Rii-
desheim hence, or to Mtoille. The river scenery above
Biugen is less interesting, and many travellers go hence
to Mayence by rail (f hr.; by steamer, 2^ lirs.). Above
Geisenheiiu, well in-shore on the r., is Inf/elheim, the
site of Charlemagne's great palace. Eltville (on the l.J
has fine villas and venerable ruins, aud is 4 M. from
the fauious warm baths of Schlunyenbad. From Bie-
brich, rly. to Wiesbaden. Above is Petersau, wdiere
Louis the Pious, Charlemagne's son, died in 840.
Mayence {Hotel de Holla nde ; D'Angleterre ; Rheit^
iseher J Ffalzer; Taunus; Germania), 78,000 inhab.,
and a strategic position, commanding confluence of
E-hine and Main (garrison, 8,000 men). It was the
Roman Moguntiacum, fortified bv Drusus (b.c. 14), and
headquarters of the 14th and 22d Legions. The Cita-
del, on their camp-grouud, has a monument erected by
his soldiers to Drusus, who died hei-e. Pope Zacharias
(in 751) made St. Boniface, the Enghsh missionary.
Archbishop of Mayence (the first German bishopric);
and after 1250 " Golden Mayence " originated and
headed the league of 100 Rhenish towns. In 146^
Archbishop Adolph killed the foremost citizens, and
Mayence became a mere archiepiscopal town. The
French republicans took it in 1792, and it was a
French town for 17 years. In 1814 it became Hessian.
The Cathedral, begun in 978, and 6 times burned and
restored, is a vast structure, with domes and round
towers (one 324 ft. high) and splendid brass gates
(made in 1135). The interior is very grand, ricli^
frescoed (by Veit), with choirs on E. (1175) and W.
(1239), and 56 columns upholding the vaulting (open
MAYENCE. 235
till 11.30, and 3-6). There are scores of fine old monu-
ments, including one to Fastrada, Charlemagne's wife.
The restored Cloisters, built in 1412, are the finest in
W. Germany, and contain Schwanthaler's monument-
to the ])ious minstrel Heinrich von Meissen (died 1318),
erected by the women of Majence in 1842. Thor-
waldsen's statue of Gutenberg, the inventor of printing,
stands near the Cathedral ; and the house in which he
was born is not far off. St. Stephens Ch. (1257-1318)
and cloisters are on high ground, and the tower overlooks
Mayeuce. The Electoral Palace, built 1627-78, and
used by the Trench for storing hay, is in the N. E.
quarter, and contains a rich museum (fee, 50 pf. Tues,
and Sat., other days free) of Homan- Germanic relics, a
library of 100,000 vols., and a Picture-Gallery of 9
rooms, with many fine old paintings (Titian, Murillo,
Holbein, etc.). The Grand-Ducal Palace, opposite,
was a Lodge of the Teutonic Order, and has an arsenal
attached. There are charming walks along the river
in the Esplanade, and in the NeAie Anlage Park
(restaurant) . An iron bridge crosses the Rhine from
the Esplanade opposite the arsenal to Castel, a small
but strongly fortified suburb. Here stood once a
Eoman bridge.
A Run through North Germany.
Wit/i Frankfort and Wiesbaden.
The traveller should now determine whether to hasten on
t© Switzerland, or (which is much better) spend afcAv days in
Germany, going from Mayence to Frankfort, Weimar, and
Berlin ; and thence down to Dresden, Prague, and Vienna ;
returning to the Rhineland by Nuremberg, Munich, and
Heidelberg. Tourists going direct to Switzerland may pass
S. from Mayence, by Worms and Strasburg, to Basle, in 10-
14 hrs., or by Darmstadt, Heidelberg, Carlsruhe, Baden, and
the Black Forest.
236 FRANKFORT-ON-THE-MAIN
From Mayence it is f hr. by rly. (lares, 2 mks. 95 pf.,
1 mk. 95 ])(., 1 mk. 30 pf.) to the Prussian city ol Frank"
fort-on-the-Main {Ft^arikfurfer Hof ; De Ru.^sie,'
Union; Jacobi; (TAngleterre; Schwan; PariserJloJ),
which has 252,000 mhab., and stands on a mountain-
girdled plain. Charlemagne held a council here in 794
and later sovereigns granted higli privileges. From 1356
to 1806 this was the place of election for the German
emperors (beginning with Barbarossa), many of whom
were crowned here. It was a free city from 1814
to 1866, when Prussia annexed it. Frankfort is a
handsome and agreeable place, with good society and
vast wealth. The ancient Homer, or Town Hall, con-
tains the Emperors' Hall, and the room in which the
electors met to choose the emperors. In front, the
coronation festivals were given. Up to 1800 no Jews
were allowed on this square. See Cathedral (1238).
Historical Iluseum in Archives building and restored
Leinv^andhaus (50pf., Snn. & Wed. free). The bridge
over Main (leading to Sachseiihausen), built 1842, has
a statue of Charlemagne. The Saallwf has a chapel of
the Carlovingian kings. The Exchange is a very hand-
some modern building. The 13th-century chs. of St.
Leonhard and St. Nicholas are interesting. The house
in which Goethe was born, and wliere he wrote Werther^
is public property. His statue (with bas-reliefs) by
Schwantlialer is near the Rossmorkt square; and there
is another in the Town Library (150,000 vols.). Th&
Stddel Institute has a school of fine arts, collections of
engravings, drawings, and casts, and several hundred
paintings of merit (open daily, 11-2; catalogue, 1 mk.).
B&thmann' s Museum contains Dannecker's Ariadne^
etc. (open daily, 50-75 pf .), The Zeil is the most bril-
liant streetin Frankfort. See Palm Garden, sculpture
in ry. station, Opera-House, Natural History Museum,
HOMBURG. — WIESBADEN. 237
and Zoological Garden. The Judengasse quarter,
where the persecuted Jews lived, 1462-1806, and
where the Rothschilds originated, is being modernized.
Chains and gates formerly closed the streets at even-
ing and on Sundays, and no Jew vi^as allowed outside.
From Frankfort it is f hr. by rly. (fares, 1 mk. 60
pf. , 1 mk. 20 pf.) to Homburg ( Villa Furstenruhe) ,
Victoria; Bellevue; Du Pare; Adler; De Russie), a
celebrated watering-place on the Taunus Mts. Iron
and saline springs in the superb gardens of the
Kurhaus (library, reading-room, and fine saloons).
Gambling was abolished here in 1870 See the castle
of the Landgraves. If M. N. on the mts. is a massive
Roman fort, built by Germanicus, and a remnant of the
wall, 150 M. long, which protected the Rhincland.
From Frankfort it is 1 hr. by rly. (fares, 3 inks. 40 pf.,
Si-mks., Imk. -ISpf.) to Wiesbaden (iVassaw; Palace;
Kaiserhof; Quatre Sai ons; Metropole; du Pare), in
the lovely valley of the Salzbach, on the viiie and j^ i o v d*
clad S. W. spurs of the Taunus Mts. 120,000 visitors
annually partake of the warm saline waters, beneficial
for rheumatism and gout. Pliny mentions i\\e.^G fontes
calidi ; and the camps of the 14th and 23d Legion^
were near by. The air is very healthy, and the town
pretty. Back of the handsome Kursaal is an extensive
]:»ark, the favorite resort of visitors. See the 2 palaces,
the museum, and picture-gallery, the library, the Gov-
ernment buildings, and the 5-towered Gothic ch., with
its colossal statues The Heidenmauer, K. W of the
town, is a Roman wall, 650 ft. long. Beautiful walks
to Nerothal, Platte^ and other environs.
Frankfort to Hanover, Havihirg, and Bremen.
From Frankfort a rly. runs N. W. across Hesse (5-8
brs. ; fares, 16 mks., i2mks., 8 mks.), by high -walled
Fnedberg ; the mineral springs of Nauhehn ; the rly.
238 CASSEL. — HANOVER. — BEUNSWICK.
junction of Giessen- ; and historic Marburg, with its
splendid clis. and castle ; to Cassel {Nord ; Royal),
the beautiful old Hessian capital (70,000 iiiliab.), Mith
its electoral palaces and vast Museum Friedericianum
(200,000 vols- ; myriads of gems, mosaics, Aveapoiis,
ivories, etc.). In the Bellevue castle is a gfillpry ol.
several hundred fine old paintings. "Willielmsliohe,
4 M. distant, is a sumptuous palace, in a park laiiious
for its fountains and cascades. liere Napoleon Hi.
was imprisoned in 1870-71.
From Cassel it is 4-5 hrs. (13 mks. 40 pf., 10 mks. 10
pf.6 mks. 70 pf), by Gottingen, famous for its univer-
sity, to Hanover ( Victoria; Royal, Bristol), hand so i^ !
city of 250,000 inhab., once capital of Hanover, and since
1866 a Prussian provincial capital. See the palaces of
the Hanoverian kings; the Royal Library, of 170.000
vols, ; the handsome Theatre ; the Museums ; and nu-
merous statues and monuments. N. W is Ihe imposing
Palace of the G-uelphs ; also, Uerreiihausen, the subur-
ban palace and park of the dethroned dynasty. Hano-
ver is 10 hrs. from Rotterdam, on the route to Berlin;
and 7-10 hrs. from Berlin, via Brunswick (fares, 3 mks.
80 pf., 2| mks.) and Magdeburg. Brunswick {Schra-
der''s Hotel ; I)eidsc.hes),\\\Q residence of the Duke of
Brunswick, 125,000 inliab., has a medieval air, with
its ancient Gotiiic Tovtm Hall; St. Martin's Ch., rich in
carvings; the Cathedral, built by the Crusader Plenry
the Lion in 1172 ; the brnnze Lion monument (1166) ;
etc. The spleiidid neA\ Ducal Palace is near \X\q Ducal
Museum,, in wliich are 900 pictures, and countless other
relics and curios. See also the War Monument and
the Theatre, The fortifications have been replaced by
promenades and gardens. Magdeburg {Central
H'>tel) on the Elbe, has 220,000 inhab. , and a very cele-
brated Cathedral (1208). Great cannon-foundry near.
HA:/IBUEG. - EIIEMEN. 239
From ITariDvcM- it is 112 M. (4-5 hrs ; fares 16 mks.
SO pf., 12 , liiAS.. 8inks.) by Lilneburg, with its ancient
houses .*' )(l '^'^-^ ^o Hambnrs; {Hmnburger Ilof ;
Esplanade; Atlantic; Kro7ipnnz; V%er Jahreszeiten;
Europa)., (580,000 mhab.; ranking next after London
among the important seaports of Europe. It is on the
lower Elbe, and is the chief ut' ihe three Hanseatie
towns. Charlemagne fomidei? a castle here (805),
and Louis the Pious an arclibisliopric ; but the city is
now aU .iiiodera. There are vast- and crowded quays,,
shipyards, i-lvs., docks, a busy Excliauge, a Town Li-
brary (250,000 vols.), ihms-mus, in )iiu!ueiits, and a good
Art Galltry. r,ic Biiinsii-Alster is a chariniug water-
park, 1 A[. aroiiud, siii-i-.)U!iaed by qua_ys and prome-
nades, hues of trees, and blocks of handsome liouses
and hotels, and eulivou-d by many pleasure-boats and
groups of swans.
Erom H imbui-g, trains run S.W., 76 M.(2ihrs.; fares,
10^ mks., 7| inks., 4f mks ), across a poor, flat country,
to Bremen( Centra?; Hillman^s; Siedenhurg; De V Eu-
rope; Du Nord), a grea^t Hanseatie commercial town^
on the Weser River, with 142,000 inh. See the richly
decorated Rathhaus (1410) ; the frescoed RathskeUery
famous for wines ; the 11th-century Romanesque Cathe-
dral ; the Kumthalle, with pictures ; the splendid new
Gothic Exchange ; and colossal Roland statue (1412).
"Frankfort to Weimar, Leipsic, and Berlin.
Time required, 12-14 hrs. ; fares, 43 mks. 40 pf., 33
mks. 60 pf., 23 mks. 40 pf This route passes through
Pulda, an ancient ecclesiastical capital ; and in 5-6 hrs.
reaches Eisenach {Gros^herzog von Sachsen), the quiet
town where Luther went to school Near by is the
Wartburg, a lofty Romanesque castle, founded in 1070,
240 GOTHA. - WEIMAR. — LEIPSIC.
and lately restored and richly frescoed. Here Luther
was hidden (1521-23), and many relics of his sojourn
are shown. 4 hrs. S., beyond the Ducal capital of
Mei7iingen, is Coburg {Victoria)^ a handsome
Francotiian city, with a remarkable castle.
On the Berlin route is Gotha {Deutscher Hof), a
pleasant ducal city, with 26,000 inliab. In arid near
the great Friedenstein Palace are remarkable collec-
tions of antiquities, coins, objects of art, sculptures,
engravings, a library of 200,000 vols., and a famous
picture-gallery. The ThujHugian Forest lies around
the JSisenach-GotJui rly. Erfurt (Romischer Kaiser)
is an ancient Prussian fortress, with 53,000 mhab., a
high-placed Gothic Catliedral, and the Augustinian
Monadery in which Luther became a monk in 1505.
Farther on toward Berlin is
Weimar (Erbprinz ; Russisclier Hof), capital of
the grand-duchy of Saxe- Weimar, an ancient town of
20,000 inhab. Goethe lived here 56 years, until his
death in 1832; and his ct)llections are shown. Schil-
ler's house IS o[)en daily. Herder and Wieland also
lived at Weimar. Statues of all these are in the
town; and frescos from their works adorn the hand-
some Grand Ducal Falace. Their busts and many
curiosities ai-e in the Grand-Dacal Library (170,000
vols.; open daily). The lluseum (open April-Sept.,
10-4) has many curios and paintings. The Stadt-
kirche (1400) has a Crucifixion by Cranach, and the
tomb of Herder. Schiller and Goethe are buried
m the cemetery, S. of the town. Farther towards
Berlin is
Leipsic {Kaiserhof, Hauffe de Russie, Sedan, de
Prusse), a city of 400,000 inhab., the centre of the
German book -trade, the seat of high imperial
tribunals, and the place where 3. great fairs are held
yearly, drawing many traders even from Asia and
LEIPSIC. — BERLIN. 241
the Levant. 30,000 strangers come to these fairs ; and
the annual sales (largely of furs, leather, and clotlis) ex^
ceed ^50,000,000. These picturesque exchanges have
been carried on for over 700 years. There are 300
booksellers and 80 y)rinting-offices here. The Museum
has Thorwaldsen's Ganymede, and an immense collec-
tion of paintings and engravings, mostly modern (open
Sun., Wed. ,Fri., free; Mon. 1 mk.; Tues..Thurs..Sat.,
fmk.). Tlie Augusteum is the seat of the University,
which was founded in 1^02, and has o,300 students and
a library of 350,000 vols, and 4,000 MSS. See tlie New
Theatre, with beautiful Corinthian faQade ; the Pleis-
senbarg citadel ; the oldj houses in the Grimma'sche
Strasse ; Auerhach's Keller, where part of the scene of
Goethe's Faust is laid ; the house in the Bruhl where
Richard Wagner was born ; the Mhnorjraphical Museuniy
etc. In 4 Oct. days of 1813, 300,000 Prussians, Aus-
trians, and Russians, headed by their sovereigns, de-
feated Napoleon and 140,000 Frenchmen here, and
drove them out of Leipsic. In the Market Place is
the War 3Innument by Siemering.
On the Leipsic- Magdebufg-Hauibn.rg rlv- is Halle
{Bode; Ilamhurg; Kronprinz), wltli 91,000 inhab., and
a famous university (1.000 students). In the market-
place is the ancient Ratlihaus, the many-towered Ch. of
Our Lady (1530). a clock-tower 276 ft. high, and a
statue of Handel Cborn at Halle, 1685).
Berlin
{Adloiir, Alexandra, Carlton, Kaisei-hof, Bristol^
Royal, Savoy, Palast, Central, Continental, Rome,
Monopol, Westminster, Esplanade), capital of Ger-
many) 1,600,000 inhabitants), is 3 to 4 hours from
Leipsic, on a sandy plain, by the river Spree. Origi-
243 BERLIN.
nally a Wenclish fishing- village, and afterwards a Han-
seatic town, it was notably improved by the Gre.it Elector
(1640-88), and by Frederick the Great and his predecessor
(1713-86). Since tiie accession of William I. in 1861 the
population has increased lourfold, and the arts and trades
have flourished remarkably.
The best part of the city may be seen by walking down
the Uiiter den Ijliulen, a broad avenue, 1 M. long, with
double rows of lime-trees, from the Brandenlxjrg Gate
to the Royal Palace. The Gate is an imitation of the
Propyleea at Athens, crowned by a fine statue of Victory
with horses. This was taken to Paris in 1807 as a trophy.
Outside is the TMergarten; inside, the Pariser-Platz,
with the BlUcher Palace and Officers' Club on the S., and
the French Emhassy on the N. There are several other
embassies and palaces on the Linden, with various govern-
ment buildings. The Florentine palace of Count Redern
is the first building on the S., and beyond are the resi«
deuces of the Minister of Religion and Education and of
the Russian Ambassador. Opposite is the Ministry of the
Interior. See the Aquarium and the arcade, Kaiser-Gal-
lerie. \ the E. end is the bronze statue of Frederick the
Oreat, by Ranch, called the finest of its kind in Europe.
The king is on horseback, in his coronation-robes; and
the lofty pedestal is surrounded with life-size statues of
his generals, princes, etc. To the S. is the Palace of Wil-
liam I., behind which is the Royal Lilbrarij (open 1-2), with
1,000,000 volumes and 30,000 MSS. N. is the Academy
Building containing the Academies of Art and of Science;
also tlie University (7,000 students), once Prince Henry's
palace, and partly enclosing gardens in which are statues
of the Humboldts. Fine anatomical, mineral, and zoologi-
cal collections here; and a library of 100,000 vols. The
Opern Platz contains statues of 5 generals, by Ranch, and
is bounded by the Palace, University, Opera House, and
BERLIN. ^43
St. Hedwig''s Cfi., an imitation of the Roman Pantheon.
Farther E., on the Linden, at the r. is the Empiess Fred-
erick Palace; and at the 1, is the Royal Guard-House
(military music in summer, 11-13), a copy of a Roman
fortified gate. Back of this is the Sin (jin{j- Academy ; and
on one side is the handsome Arsenal, with many rare
trophies of war. Close by is tlie Schloss Bridge, adorned
with 8 groups of statuary, and leading to tlie Lustgarten,
a pai-k in which stands an equestrian statue of Frederick
William III. On one side is the lioyal Palace, a vast
double quadrangle, built since 1540, and containing 600
rooms (open daily, 10-1). See Swiss Hall, King's Hall,
Red-Eagle Hall, Throne Room, now Ritter Saal, Velvet
Room, Black Eagle Hall, Picture Gallery (fine modern
battle-paintings), "White Saloon (statues of the 13 Elec-
tors), and Chapel, rich in alabaster and gems, and
splendidly frescoed. Magnificent new Cathedral must
not be missed. Opposite the palace is the Old. Museum,
the finest building in the city, with a grand Ionic portico,
adorned with colossal bronze groups, and richly frescoed
halls (open daily, 10-3). See the collections of antiquities;
the sculptures ; the Hall of the Heroes, and the Picture
Gallery, unexcelled in its facilities for the study of art
history. The New Museum contains Kaulbach's famous
m.ural paintings, the Egyptian museum, an immense
collection of casts, 13 cabinets of Northern antiquities, 4
rooms of objects of art, and 500,000 engravings. It has a
Renaissance facade to the E. ; and opposite is the new
Corinthian temple of the National Gallery (open daily,
11-3), which contains a magnificent and world-renowned
collection of modern paintings.
The Friedriclis-8ta<lt is the business centre of Berlin,
and the streets in this section are interesting. The
24:4: BERLIN.
Theatre is a classic structure, on the Schiller-Platz, witl?
several line bronze groups; in front, a noble statue ol
Schiller. The Wilhelmsirasse contains notable palaces;
and in the Wilhelms-Platz are statues of 6 of Frederick
the Great's generals. At the west end of the busy Leip-
ziger-Strasse are tlie halls of the Prussian Diet, the offices
of the ministers of War and Navy, and of tlie Postmaster-
General; adjoining latter is the interesting Post -Office
Museum. Just beyond Leipziger-Platz is the Potsdamer-
Platz, and near this on Koniggratzer-Strasse corner
Prinz-Albrecht-Strasse is Ethnographical Museum (10-3),
next to wliich is the Art Industrial Museum (10-3). Belle
Alliance Platz contains lofty granite column of Peace
(1840), surrounded by splendid marble groups.
At the Eo end of Leipziger-Strasse is the Spittel-Markt.
Near this (5 Wall-Strasse) is Ravene''s Gallery of modern
French and German pictures (Tues. & Fri., 10-3). S. of
tlie Schloss-Brlicke is the Academy of Architecture. The
Schinkel-Platz h-AS statues of Schinkel, Beuth, and Thaer.
The Kurfiirsten Bridge leads from tlie square S. of the
Royal Palace into old Berlin, where are tlie Imperial
Post-Office and the Mth-century Ch. of St. Mary. The
Rathhaus (open 10-3) is an immense Romanesque building
of brick (1860-70), with a, tower :i86 ft. high, and several
handsome Jialls. Underneath is the RaUiskeUer, a great
refresliment-room. Opposite the Museum is the StocTc
Exchange, a sumptuous Renaissance building, with the
greatest hall in Berlin, riclily frescoed. Beyond the
Hercules Bridge (on wlaich are statues by Schadow) is
Monbijou, a beautiful royal palace, in wliich is the Hohen-
zollern Museum (daily, 10-3) . Near by is the great Syna-
gogue, Moorish in style.
The splendid KOnigs-Platz adjoins the Thiergarten,
and coniains the Monument of Victory, 190 ft. high, com.-
POTSDAM. 245
memorating^ tlie battles of 1870-71. Here is the Italian
Renaissance Hall of the Imperial Diet, which cost 23,000,-
OCO mks. Avenue of Victory, Berlin's favorite promenade,
leads through the Thiergarten, a park 2 M. long and J M.
wide, v(^ith many ponds and groves of large trees. At the
end is a large Zoological Garden. S. of this is the Emperor
William 3Iemorial Church, erected in 1895. To S.E. is the
Botanical Garden with plants of 30,000 species. Horse-cars
run through the Thiergarten to Charlottenburg-, a large
town with a Palace (1699) in a handsome garden, and a
Mausoleum, with sculptures by illustrious masters. In
Berlin's Old Trinity Cemetery, Mendelssohn is buried ; and
in Trinity Cemetery, Schleiermacher and Neander. Cor-
nelius rests in Hedwig''s Cemetery; Ranch, Schadow,
Schinkel, Hegel, and Fichte, in the Old Dorotheenstadt
Cemetery; and the Humboldts, at Tegel.
Potsdam {EinsiedUr, Eisenbahn, with good restaurant)
is 16 M. from Berlin (K hr.; 75 pf.), among wooded hills
and the lakelike expanses of the Havel. Here is the Sans-
souci Palace, built by Frederick the Great, and full of
reminiscences of him. Near by are the Picture-Gallery,
the Orangery (adorned with fine statuary), and the
Sicilian Garden, The New Palace (1769) has 200 richly
adorned rooms, with fine paintings, and a noteworthy
Marble Saloon. The Marble Palace is N. of Potsdam, and
has many paintings. BabeUberg is a new Gothic palace,
with rich art-treasures. The Town Palace (1660) is full of
relics of the Great Frederick. The Garrison Church con-
tains his tomb and military trophies. The Church of
Peace is a noble Ionic basilica, Avith masterpieces of
sculpture. The famous Sanssouci fountains play on
summer Sunday afternoons. There are several chateaux
of princes near Potsdam. (60,000 inhab.).
DrvESDEN.
Dresden and Prague.
Express- trains, Berlin to Dresden, 3 brs. (108 M.; 16
mks. 30 pf., 13 mks. 30 pf., 8 mks. 50 pf.).
Dresden {Grand Union, Savoy, Europaischer Hof, Conti-
nental, Bellevue, Berliyi, Rom, Kronprinz, Vier Jahres-
zeiten), "the German Florence," lias 400,000 inhab., and
has been the capital of Saxony since 1485. Many British
and American families dwell here, induced by the
abundant facilities for culture and amusement, and also
by the cheapness of living. The Elbe is crossed by 3 stone
bridges, axid bordered by the popular promenade, the
Brii^I Terrace, adorned with statuary and trees. Here
front the Synagogue, the Art Academy, the Exhibition
Buildings, and the Court Ch. (famous music. Sun. and
festivals, 11) Statues of Richter and Semper and the
Maurice monument here. Opposite Court Church is the
Hof -Theater, and near it Guard House. In square is
equestrian statue of King John. The Royal Palace (1534)
is an irregular double quadrangle, with a tower 361 ft.
high, and a richlv frescoed Throne Room. The Green-
Vault (9-3 daily ; catalogue, 1 mk.) contains the largest
existing collection of objects of art, bronzes, ivory carv-
ings, mosaics, enamels, gems, crystal, and magnificent
plate ; also the regalia of Poland • and Saxony, superb
state swords, and precious stones of enorm.ous value ; and
works of DtJrer, Angelo, and Cellini. The Museum (part
of the Zwinger) is a Renaissance building decorated with
statues and sculptures, and containing the finest picture-
gallery N. of Italy (open daily; Sun., Tues., Thurs.,
Fri. free). Here are 3,400 paintings, including
the Sistine Madonna, Correggio's La Notte, and
Titian's Tribute Money; and choice works of
SAXON SWITZERLAND. 247
Murillo, Diirer, Teniers, Yeronese, etc. ; also, 350,000
engravings, a great museum of casts, collections in
natural history and mineralogy, and the most interest-
ing Historical Museum in Germany (ancient weapons,
armor, furniture, and trophies of war). See the Eng-
lish ch. ; the stone-domed Ch. of Our Lady; the Cross
Ch., with tower 346 ft. high, and fountains and statues
in the streets. Mouument to the War of 1870-71, in
the Old Market.
The Japanese Palace, across the Elbe, contains
the Royal Library, with 400,000 vols., 6,000 MSS.,
and many rare old books and maps (open to visitors
12-1 summer, 1-2 winter, | mk.) ; tlie Collection of
Forcelahi (15,000 pieces of Dresden, Sevres, and Ori-
ental wares ; open daily) ; and collections of coins and
antiquities. In the rear is the pretty Japanese Garden,
neai- which Koruer was born and Schiller dwelt. The
Grosse Garten is a royal park of 300 acres, wherein
the French and Prussians fought in 1813. Here are
Zoological and Botanical Gardens; also a Museum of
Antiquities^ and Riefsrhel Museum of sculptures (both
open daily). Schlegel and Weber are buried in the
Catholic Cemetery. The monument where Gen.
Moreau was mortally wounded is 1^ M. S. ; and the
Morltzburg , a royal hunting-lodge, is 6 M. N. Fillnitz
(7 M.) is a handsome royal chateau. Many charming
suburban excursions.
The Saxon Switzerland is a beautiful mt. region,
4-500 square M. in area, filled with grotesque sand-
stone peaks and gorges, and traversed by the Elbe.
A 2-days' tour leads from Dresden to Potzsclia (f hr.
by rly.) ; thence (1^ hr.) to the Bastei, a hotel-crowned
peak, overlooking the whole region and the Elbe valley .
thence (5 hrs.) io Schandau, a summer resort (hotels)
in the heart of the mt'^' and thence (1 day) by the
HS PRAGUE
Lichtenhahi Fall and tlie Kiilistall and Prebisc/Uhor
peaks, to K'dnlgdeiii, a lofty and imposing Saxon for-
tress. It is 5-7 iirs. (fares,18 mks. 70 pf., 14 mks. 10 pf.,
9 mks. 40 pf.) up the Elbe valley and through the
Saxon Switzerland, by Pima and Konigdeiii, with their
fortresses, and Bodenhach (2| hrs. from i\\c Schneeberg,
and opposite the handsome castle of Tesche)i), from
Dresden to
Pragrue {De Saxe; 3Io7iopol: Royal; Schwartzes
Ross; Blauer Stern; Yidoria; Goldener Engel). the
capital of Bohemia (250,000 inh.), situated on hills
near the Moldau lliver,- f of tlie people are Bohemians,
and the Germans are very unpopri^ar. The city was
founded by the Duchess Libussa. Here Huss and
Jerome preached the Reformation, which took firm
root in Bohemia until the Protestant army was crushed,
just outside of Prague, in 1620, by the Bavarian forces
of the Roman-Catholic League. The palace of the
Bohemian kings is now an Austrian barrack ; and tlie
old Hussite ch., the Teynkirche, containing Tycho
Brahe's tomb, is now^ Roman. In front of the Rath-
haus 27 Protestant Boiiemian nobles vrere executed, in
1620 ; and 11 of Wallensteiu's officers, in 1633. See
the Palace of Count Clam Gallas ; the Gothic Puher-
tlmrm tower ; the great Jesuit College ; the ancient
University, founded in 1348 ; the Bohemian. National
Museum; the Rossmarkt, a grand street adorned Mntli
statues ; the Neustadt Rathhaus, where the Hussite
wars began ; the Jews' Quarter, with 9 synagogues and
a very ancient cemetery ; and the Wysschrad citadel.
The Charles Bridge (1357-1507), with 16 arches,
towers of defence (on one of which the beads of the
Protestant nobles were exposed for 10 years), and 30
statues of saints, crosses the Moldau to the splendid
Radetzkv Monument (made from Italian cannon) and
CARLSBAD. — TEPLITZ. 249
the JeHinf Ch. On tlie rocky lieights above is the mar-
vellous Hradschin, where stands the Cathedral (1844;
-83), containing' the marble and alabaster mausoleum
(1589) ot" the Bohemian kings; the tombs of St. Adal-
bert, St. Vitus, St. Wenzcl, and several Sclavonic
kings, and many rare mosaics and pauitings. The
great Imperial Palace (o|)en daily, 11-1, 111.) cou-
tains portraits, ancient halls, and the Council Cliamber
from which the imperial councillors were thrown,
causing tlie Thirty Years' War. In the Sternberg
Palace is a collection of 350-400 paintings (open,
daily). The vast Czerjiin Palace is now a barrack.
Near it is a Capuchin monastery, with a chapel copied
after the Casa Santa at Tvoretto. Higher up is the
wealthy and imposing Abbey of Strahow, with the
tombs of St. Norbert and Gen. Pappenlieitn, a painting
by Diirer, a fine library, and splendid views over
Prague, t^'ie Moldau plahi, and the Giant Mts. Below
the Belcedcre, an imperial villa (1530) with Bohemian
historical frescos, are "Wallenstein's Palace (1636)
and the Noslitz Palace, containing 400 paintings.
Carlsbad (/Saroy; Bristol; Papp; Anger's; Konigs-
villa; NationaL; Hannocti ; Kroh), 6-7 hrs. W.
of Piague, is visited by over 20,000 yearly, who find
the suipiiur and saline waters beneticiai, and pretly
scenery of Te[)l glens and pine woods very charming.
Tepiitz {Zam alien Ralhaus; Planer Stem), 3-4
hrs. from Dresden, 4-5 hrs. from Prague, another fam-
ous watering-place, with warm alkaline springs, used
for bathing. Scenery is mountainous, picturesque;
and ruined castles, hill-top inns, and rich abbeys
abound From Prague to Munich is a ride of 11-12
hrs. (38 mks. 90 pf.,' 30 mks. 60 pf., 21^ mks). From
Prague you can go to Vienna by night-train (217 M. ;
8-10 hrs. i fares, 18 mks. 70 pf., 13 mks. 70 pf.), via
250 VIENNA.
Tabor and Gmtind. Berlin to Breslau and Vienna,
18-20 hrs. Dresden to Znaim and Vienna, 14 hrs.
Vienna.
Yiotols.— Imperial ; Archduhe Charles; Bristol ;
Metropole ; De France ; Residenz ; Meissl ; Krantz;
Grand; Sacher; (in the suburbs), Co?iti7iental, Leo-
pohlstadt; Kammer, Mariahilf; Holler, Neubau.
Restaurants. — Vienna is expensive town, and a
few hints may be useful. There is no obligation to take
more than first breakfast in hotels where you lodge.
Sacher s, near thn Opera; Hopfer ; Hartmann; Leh-
iier; Bellaria; Dreher^s, close to Opera, and some
of the cafe-restaurants on the Ring, are good. The
Viennese sup from 9 to 11 ; and the traveller should
not fail to take supper in one of the concert-halls, fre-
quented by good society. Table-d'hote is not general.
Good dinners can be had at the restaurants, at fixed
prices. Austrian wines most in use are Voslauer (red)
and Gmripoklskirchener (white). The Hungarian
wines are Erlauer, Carlowitzer, and Ofener (red) ; and
Tokayer aad Ruster (white).
Carriages (2-horse), 1 fl. for drive within the city
limits; 1^11. an hr. ; 1 -horse, Ifl. 20kr. an hr. Drivers
expect liberal gratuity. Horse-cars, with smoking-
compartments, run around the Ritig, the Franz-
Joseph-Qiiai, and across the Aspern Bridge to the
Prater (fare, 12kr.). The railway termini are all
joined by a circular connecting line.
The capital of Austria and Hungary, with upwards
of 1,400,000 inh., stands on a mountain- walled plain
near the Danube River, and is one of the handsomest,
m-ost enterprising, and most interesting of European
cities. Vienna was first a Celtic village; then a Roman
fort, where Marcus Aurelius died (18'^); left a deso-
lation by the Huns; made a fief of the empire by
Charlemagne; occupied by the Duke of Austria in
VIENNA. 251
1156 ; enriched by the Crusades; fortified in 1251; oc-
cupied by tlie Hapsburgs in 1276 ; besieged by the
Turks in 1529 and 1683 ; occupied by the French in
1805 and 1809 ; and in the power of Prussia in 1866.
The Church of St. Stephen, at the centre of
Vienna, built of limestone, 1300-1510, and restored
in 1860. The nave is 354 ft. long and 89 feet high ;
and its rich groined roof rests on huge pillars,
adorned with 100 statuettes. See the old imperial
burial-vault, the tomb of Prince Eugene ot Savoy, the
stone pulpit (1512), the sarcophagus in the Thekla
Choir, the carved choir-slalls, and the stained windows.
Great catacombs beneath. On the outside, see Giant's,
Eagle's, and Bishop's Dours, tomb ot" the Meislersanger,
pulpit of Capistranus, and Heathen towers. The
tower is 453 ft. high (20 kr.), and the guides point out
thence the battle-fields of Wagrara and Essling. At
the corner of the Graben, the chief business and shop-
ping street, is the Stock am Eisen, a pine-tree stump
full of nails, driven on account of an ancient custom.
In the Graben is the grotesque Trinity Column (i693)'.
The Kohlmarkt is a street of shops, leading to the Im-
perial Palace. The Ring is the magnificent boule-
vard, 165 ft. wide and 2 M. long, which (with the
Quay on the Danube Canal) surrounds the inner town,
and occupies the place of the old ramparts and glacis.
Beginning at the Aspern Bridge, it passes between the
great barracks and the Custom House. The next
section, the Stuheti-Ring, passes the handsome new
Austrian Museum (open daily), with 9 rooms,
crowded witli choice works in gold, brass, iron, ivory,
bronze, tapestry, leather, etc., and paintings and staL.
uary. This German S' Kensington is joined by a
corridor to the Technical 6'chool, near which is a statue
of Pallas Athene. The Fark-Rinq runs between the
252 VIENNA.
pretty Stadt Park, where the Strausses may often b^
heard, and the Horticidtural Palace, behmd which are
the splendid modern palaces of the Duke of Coburg
and the Archduke William. The Kolowrat-Ring passes
the Casino (the club of the nobility) and the Gothic
Academie Gymnasium. From the Schwartzenberg-Platz,
with its monument and ducal palaces, the Kdrnthner-
Ring passes the Imperial and Grand Hotels, the beauti-
ful building of the Musical Union, and the Renaissance
Artists'" House (exhibitions of paintings). The busy
OperwRing leads by the magnificent Opera House,
the best in Germany, with sumptuous frescos and
decorations ; and the Palace of the Archduke Albert, in
which is the Albertina (open Mon. and Thurs., 9-2),
a collection of 40,000 books, 200,000 engravings, and
Imndi-eds of drawings by Raphael, Rubens, Diirer, etc.
The Burg-Ring is between the huge new buildings of
the Imperial Museums and the Imperial Palace. The
Franzens-Ring passes the Yolksgarten, a popular park,
with a temple containing Cancva's Theseus. Near it
is the superb Votive Ch., commemorating the Em-
peror's escape from assassination in 1853, and adorned
with twin spires, abounding in statues, and 345 ft.
high, and wonderful stained windows. Near by are
vast hospitals, unrivalled in Europe ; and the great
new buildings of the University, the Gothic Rathhaus,
the Coui-ts of Justice, the Hofburg Theatre, the Mili-
tary Offices, and the classic Parliament House. The
Schotten- Ring contains the 'Exchange, a new Renais-
sance structure (cost $3,500,000), the vast Police
Office, and the Stiftungshmis erected on the site of
the Ring Theatre, which was burned with great loss
of life in 1881, and leads to the Danube Canal.
The Hofburg, or Imperial Palace, the home of
Austria's sovereigns for 6 centuries, is a vast and irreg-
VIENNA 253
ular group of buildings, with a labyrinth of courts,
fates, and corridors. See the magnificent Knights^
Tall, ?n til? Residenz; the apartments of Maria Theresa;
^he liidmg 'School ; the Guard-House (military music
daily, at Y}\ the AiiguHtinian Ch., with its monuments;
the Hofgarten; and. \\\q statues of Francis I., Joseph
II., the Aichduke Charles, Prince Eugene, etc. The
Imperial Library (open daily, 9-4) contains 600,000
?ols., 20,000 MSS., and 300,000 engravings. The
Natural-Ristorji and Mineral Cabinets are very inter-
esting. The Treasury (open almost every day) is
the most interesting in Europe, and contains the entire
i'egalia ot Austria, coronation -robes, jewel-studded dec-
orations, jewelry, caskets of gold, silver, and crystal.
Napoleon I.'s regalia as King of Italy, the sabre of
Haroun-al-Raschid, the crown and sword of Charle-
magne, the lance which pierced the Saviour's side, etc.
Among the jewels is the Elorentine diamond, valued at
:$300,000.
The homely Capuchin Gh. contains the Imperial
Vault (open daily; gratuity for the poor), where you
may see the coffins in which lie Maria Theresa, Marie
I/ouise, Maximilian of Mexico, and other sovereigns.
Near by is the Imperial Printi7ig-0fj[ice (open Tues.
and Eri., 9-12). The JJniversity (4,000 students)
is in the Franzens-Eing.
The suburban Liechtenstein Palace (open daily,
9-6) has a gallery of 1,600 paintings, with many
remarkable works of Uubens and Van Dyck. The
Schonborn Palace (Mon., Wed., and Eri'., 9-3) has
a famous collection of pictures ; and the Harrach Pah
Mce (Wed. and Sat., 10-4) contains 400 interesting
paintings. There are many very interesting ancient
and modern clis. in Vienna, many palaces, and civio
and national institutions, monuments, squares and
bridges, which should be seen.
254 VIENNA.
The Belvedere, an Imperial resicleiice,bmlt in 1693*
1724, and once inhabited by Prince Eugene of Savoy,
has a beautiful French garden. Its gallery formerly
contained about 1,500 paintings, including a remark-
able collection of early Italian and Venetian works,
and Diirer's world-renowned " Trinity," all of which
were removed to the Imperial Art Museum in 1891.
The other of the two buildings forming the Belve-
dere, known as the Lower Belvedere, contained ths
famous Ambras collection, removed in 1889 to the
Art-History Museum. Near by is the vast Arsenal,
with the richly frescoed Hall of Fame, and thousands
of military relics and trophies of the Turkish, French,
Swedish, and Italian wars. Here also are great bar-
racks, gun-factory, and cannon-foundry.
The Prater is an immense forest-park on the B
(laid out in 1766), with cafes, band-music, theatres,
and avenues. On May and June afternoons the fashion-
able world of Austria may be seen driving in the HaupU
Allee. W'urstel Prater is the part frequented by the
humbler classes. In the cemetery of Wahring, 1-| M.
N. W. of the city, Beethoven, Schubert, and Grilipar-
zer are buried; Mozart lies at 8t. Marx, and Gluck at
Matzleinsdorf.
Schonbrunn (horse-cars or omnibus) is a splendid
suburban miperiai residence, where Napoleon I. had
his headquarters, and where his son died (1832).
Beautiful gardens, fountains, statuary, and flowers.
On the W. are the villas of Hietzing. Laxenburg
(f hr. by rly.) is another imperial chateau (built in
1377), with many interesting halls and monuments.
The Kahlenberg, N. of Vienna, overlooks the Danube
plain, the Carpatiiians, and the Styrian Alps. There
are many other lovely excursions in the environs.
PESTH 255
SOUTHEASTERN EUROPE
IHIS interesting region is easily reached from Vi-
enna, whence steamers descend the Danube to
Pesth in 12-13 hrs. (starting at 6.30 a. m. ; fares, 7 fl.,
4f fl.). Pesth to Vienna, by rly,, 7-8 hrs. (fares 9 fl.
60 kr. , 7 fl. 80 kr. by express). The steamer passes
Lobau island, where Napoleon and 150,000 soldiers,
with 700 cannon, were encamped in 1809; and tlie cas-
tles of i>ejifcc/i.-J.^?^(S?i/!'irr^,7i«nz5?/r^, and Thebeiij and
in 2^ hrs. reaches Presburg {Grilner Baum; Konig
wn Ungarn), the former capital (48,000 inh.), on the
foot-hills of the little Carpathians. In XhQ Cathedral
(1090) the Hungarian kings were crowned. Before it
is a statue of St. Martin. See the RatMaus (1288);
the beautiful Franciscan Gh. (1293); &uAt\\Q Museums.
From the ruins of the imperial palace, on the Schloss-
lerg, there is a lovely view over the villages and vine-
yards. Beautiful excursions in the vicinity.
Below Presburg the shores are flat. Komorn is a
powerful fortress (14,000 inhab.); Gran (10,000 in.
hab.) has lofty-domed cathedral; Wme^ratZ, a ven-
erable fortress, ruined by the Turks.
Budapest {Grand Hotel Hungaria ; Queen of
England; Panno7iia ; Jdgerhoiii ; Royal; Fiume,
in Biida; MargaretenhaJ., on the island) has 750,000
inhabitants. It is the capital of Hungary, and is a
handsome modern city, next only to Vienna in im-
portance in the empire-kingdom. The beautiful
modern Renpjssaiice Academy (11-1) contains a li-
brary and botanical collection, and has many Hun-
garian IPuudscapes and historical paintings. The
National Museum (9-1) is rich in Roman Transyl-
vanian, and Hungarian antiquities, and has a natural
history collection and a library and waiting room.
The magnificent Moro-Romanesque Redoute Build-
ings contain ball-rooms, concert halls, assembly
rooms, etc. The new M\iseum of Fine Arts Qovit&ms
the great National (formerly Esterhazy) Gallery with
258 BELGRADE-BAZIASCH.
900 paintings, 22,000 drawings, and about 75,000
engravings, and also a collection of modern pictures.
See the Indiislrial Art Iluseum with exterior colored
ornamentation in Magyar style; the House of Par-
liament ; the PaZctce of Justice; the Hathaus ; the
Opera House; the new Jioyal Agricultural Museum
in the Varosliget Park ; the Post Office ; the pro-
menades along the Danube ; the statues of Stefan
Szechenyi, Joseph von Eotvos, Archduke Joseph,
Franz Deak, and Alexander Petofi ; the colossal
sculptural bulls in front of the slaughter house ; the
Varosliget Park ; the Kerepesi Cemetery with monu-
ments of Kossuth, Battliyany, Deak, and others;
the Margarethen-lnsel, a pretty island-park (cafes
and military music) ; and various new national
buildings. A splendid suspension-bridge andother
bridges connect Pest and Buda (Ofen). The latter
was once a Roman colony, and for 150 years a
Turkish town. See the Royal Palace, the great
modern fortress, and St. llafthius Church. There
are famous baths in Ofen, founded by the Turks,
near one of which is a mosque.
Steamers from Pesth to Orsova, 50 hours, a superb
trip, passing Mohdcs, where the Turks conquered
Hungary (1526); Neusatz, a fortified modern tuwn;
Pet erward 6171, where Peter the Hermit preached the
First Crusade ; Garloivitz, and Sejnlin, where is
Hunyadi's castle.
Belgrade {Hotel de Paris), the capital of Servia,
has 40,000 inhab., a quaint (Oriental town, with nar-
row streets curving under a fortress-crowned rock.
4-5 hrs. below is Baziasch, the end of the ry. from
Pesth. Travelers come down this way and take steamer
at Baziasch, where the Danube enters the magnificent
scenery of the Carpathians. On the r., in this tre-
ORSOVA. — BUCHAREST. 257
mendous defile, is the ruined fortress of Golubacz, and
ancient Roman forts. At Drencova tlie rapids are
entered. Servia is on the r., Hunc^arj on the 1.
Through the Defile of Kasan the rive^r is 500-600 ft.
wide, between immense rocky cliffs. Trajan's Roman
road is on the r. bank ; and his inscription, commemo-
rating the Dacian campaign, is near the end.
Orsova {Kmig vo7i Ungarn) is a pretty Wallachian
village, just above the famous Iron Grates, where the
Danube plunges through a rocky caiion \\ M. long.
A rly. runs from Pesth to Orsova (305 M. ; fares,
25fl. 65kr., 19 11. 22 kr., 12fl. 80kr.), by Temesvar
(33,000 inhab.). From Vienna to Bucharest by this
favorite route, 29-30 hrs. (fares, 174 fr. 80 c, 131^ fr. ;
the Roumanian currency is like that of France).
The through journey from Pesth to Constantinople
(3 days; fares, food included, 108^ ti., 75|^fl.) is by
rly. to Bayisch, thence by express-steamer to Rustchuk,
rly. to Varna, and steamer down the Black Sea. Erora
Giurgevo, opposite Rustchuk, rly. to Bucharest.
Vienna to Bucharest. — Fares, 16 fi. 62 kr,, 12 fL
70 kr., 9 fl. 79 kr., to Craco-w {Grand; Saxe), once
the capital of Poland, annexed to Austria in 1846.
Here is a fine cathedral, with the tombs of the Polish
kings ; and a huge mound made of earth, erected by
the people in honor of Kosciuszko. Fares, 16;^ fi.,
12 fl. 18 kr., 61 fl., to Lemberg (Hotel de France/
D'Angleterre), the capital of Galicia, with 127,000
inhab. and a large university. Lemberg to Czernowit,^,
12 fi. 64 kr., 9 fl. 47 kr., 4 fl. 92 kr.; Czernowitz to
Roman, fares proportional ; Roman to Buchare."* > 56 fl,
20kr.,42ifl., 28 fl. 10 kr.
Bucharest {Hotel Frascati), the capital of the
kingdom of Rcumania, *' the Paris of the East," has
315, UOO inhab., and is a semi- Oriental town, divided
258 &EATZ. — TRIESTE.
into the Yellow, Red, Green, Black, and Blue districts,
or wards. See the Palace, Theatre, War-Office, Uni-
versitj, the Ch. and Monastery of Radu Vod (1572),
the parks, the equestrian statue of Michael III., and
8ome of the chs.
Vienna to Gratz and Trieste.
Leaving Vienna at 7 a.m., one reaches Trieste in 14|
hrs. (fares, 33 fl. 82 kr., 24 fl. 52 kr.), crossing the
Semmering Pass by a wonderfully picturesque rly.,
with 30 tunnels and viaducts ; 25 M. of this line cost
nearly $8,000,000. Semmering stat. is 2,892 ft. above
the sea ; and here the rly. passes through the crowning
ridge by a tunnel 1 M. long, and descends through the
narrow Styrian valleys by Bruck, where the rly. to
Venice diverges, and by a score of castles^ to
Gratz {Elephant; Daniel; Sivan), the capital of
Styria (100,000 inhab.), a pretty, well-situated, and
growing town, where many retired Austrian officers
live. The Castle is 400 ft. above Gratz, and commands
a grand view. See the Hall of the Styrian Estates, the
Cathedral (1446), the Imperial Mausoleum, and the
Johanneum Palace, with its library and picture-gallery.
Beyond Gratz the line traverses a picturesque mt.
region, full of historical interest. At Steinbriick a
branch diverges to Agram, the capital of Croatia.
Farther on is Laibach, tlie capital of Carniola, with a
fine castle and cathedral ; and Adelsberg {Grand
Hotel Adelsberg ; Krone), whence the famous Stalactite
Caverns (f M. W.) may be visited. The long zigzag
descent to the Adriatic gives many splendid views,
TviQstQiHotel dela Ville; Delorme; Aquila Neva;
Central), chief Austrian port (150,000 inhab.), is an
Italian city in sentiment and appearance, beautifully
LINZ. — SALZBUKG. 259
situated on a fortified harbor, and visited by 14,000
vessels yearly, it has a venerable cathedral, a sump-
tuous Greek ch., a tall Armenian eh., a far-viewing
Capuchin monastery (with castle above), a Ghetto
(Jews' quarter), many palaces, and several statues.
The Tergesteum is a vast commercial building, head-
quarters of the Austrian Lloyds. The Fiazzetta di
Ricardo commemorates the imprisonment of Richard
Coeur de Lion here. Beautiful drives on the St. An-
drea Corso, to Miramar, the palace of Maximilian of
Mexico ; and to Prosecco, of whose wine Yirgil spoke.
Steamers run from Trieste down the Istrian and
Dalmatian coasts to Zara, Spalatro, Ragusa, Cattarq.
Pola, and Eiume ; and to the Ionian and Greek ports,
and Constantinople ; also to Venice. Rly. to Venice.
The Upper Danube, Salzburg, etc.
This region is full of beauty and picturesqueness.
The descent by steamer from Linz to Vienna requires
8-9 hrs. (7fl., 4fl. 30_kr.); ascent, 18-20 hrs. The
route to N. Germany is bv rly. to Linz and Munich.
Uly. from Vienna in 117 M. (41-6 hrs. ; 10 fl. 80 kr.,
8 fl. 10 kr.), by Molk, with its ancient monastery ; and
Enm, strongly fortified with the ransom paid by England
for Richard Coeur de Lion, and 3 M. from the. great
Augustinian Abbey of St. Florian ; to
Iiinz {Erzherzog Carl ; Qoldmr Adler), the Ccipital
of Upper Austria (50,000 inhab.), a pretty town, with
a museum, castle, and Capuchin ch. 78|- M. S. W.
(fares, 7 fl. 13 kr., 5 fl. 35 kr.«, express in 3 hrs.) is
Salzhnrg (Hotel de I' Europe ; D'Autriche; Nelbock),
one of the most beautiful towns in Germany, with an
Italian beauty in its flat-roofed houses, foantains, and
marble fagades, and environs of far-famed picturesque-
260 THE SALZKAMMERGUT.
ness. The Palace, Cathedral, and Government build-
iugs are in the old quarter. Here is Mozart's birthplace,
his house, his statue, and a collection of his MSS. ; also
the Ch. and Cemetery of St. Peter, and the Benedic-
tine Abbey, with the cellar where Haydn used to enjoy
his wine. See the Museum, the Pranciscan Ch., the
imposing Portress of Hohen-Salzburg, and tlie high and
-woodi^ M'dnchsberg ; 250 stone steps lead to tlie monas-
tery on the Capuziterberg. The house of Paracelsus is
near the river. The palace of Mirabell, Prince Schwart-
zenberg's chateau of Aigen, and the imperial villa of
Helbrunn, are near by.
Diligences ran 3 times daily (9fl. 73kr.) to Wild-
bad Gastein {Straubmger; Oasteiner Ilof; Bade-
schloss; Austria; Kaiserhof; Hirsch; Weismayr;
G er mania) , whose warm springs attract thousands
of nervous, gouty and debilitated folk. Beautiful
hill-country, abounding in high waterfalls.
"The Salzkammergut, or " Austrian Switzerland,"
in which the Government has great salt-mines, covers
250 square M. between Salzburg and Styria, and has
the finest scenery in Germany, sequestered green valleys,
crystal lakes, and far-viewing mts. Diligences run
daily from Salzburg (34 M. ; 4 fl.) to the expensive
watering-place of Ischl [Kaiserin Elisabeth; Bauer ;
Post ; Victoria^, near the centre of this Alpine region,
with splendid villas of the Emperor and many nobles.
Mud baths and whey baths here. >rand excursions in
every direction. Prom Vienna to Ischl, leave Salzburg
line at Lambach, and go by branch rly. to Gmunden
(passing near the Traun Falls'), a quiet little summer-
resort on the Traun See, Ihe most beautiful of German
lakes. Thence 9 M. by steamer, amid grand lake and
mt. scenery, to Langbath (diligence to Ischl, 12 M.).
Between Salzburg and Munich ry. traverses a pic-
turesque mt. region.
MUNICH, 261
Munich and the Tyrol.
Munich(Bay riscJie?^ Ilof; Riissischer Ilof; RUein-'
ischer Ilof; Eiiglischer Hof; Vier Jahreszeiten;
Continental; de V Europe;, (jrrunwald; Park), the
capital of Bavaria (550,000 inhab.), is on the.
Isar river, on a broad, lofty and barren plain. The
eliraate is variable, and almost severe. Living is cheap,
and furnished rooms may be had reasonably for a stay
of 2-4 weeks. The Royal Palace, an imitation of
the Pitti Palace, contains magnificent frescos from the-
Odyssey and the Niebelungenlied, and from the lives-
of Charlemagne, Barbarossa, and the Hapsburgs ; and,
in the Throne-RiOom, Schwanthaler's grand statues
of 12 Wittelsbach princes. In the adjacent Old-
Residence (1600-16) is the sumptuous Royal Chapel
(open Tues., 9.30-11) ; also the Treasury (Tues. and
JPri., 9-11), with the Bavarian regalia, the great blue-
diamond, and the crowns of Bohemia (captured in 1620),,
and of the Emperor Henry II. and the Empress Cuni.
gunda (1010). The Festsaalbau, with noble portico-
and statues, fronts on the Hofgarten, around which ruij.
richly frescoed Arcades, containing the Ethnographical
Museum and the Art TJnion. 11\\q Mof -Theatre, adorned"
with many fine statues, is the largest in Germany.
To the east of the palace is the Bavarian Military
Museum, with elaborately ornamented cannon in
front. The Bavarian National 3Inseum in the
Prinz-Regenten Street contains collections of great
historical interest of industrial art, mediaeval Chris-
tian art, and modern art;^ textiles, armor, ceramics;
old MSS. and specimens^ of early printing.
The Ludwigs-Strasseruns from the Hall of Gen-
erals to Gate of Victory, a triumphal arch erected
by Lewis I. to the Bavarian army, with statues
and reliefs, and surmounted by a bronze Bavaria,
in a chariot drawn by lions. On and near this street
are the Odeon concert-hall ; Theatine Ch., with the
g62 MUNICH.
royal tomLs ; the equestrian statue of Lewis f ; ; the
War Office ; the Library (10-12 daily), — a Florentine
building with fine statues and an imposing stairway,
1,000,000 vols,, 25,000 MSS., and literary curios-
ities, — the Codex Aureus, Alaric's breviary, the prayer-
books of Diirer and Emperor Lewis, the oldest
Kiebelungenlied MS., etc. ; the Ludwigshirche, a
splendid eh. in Italian stj^le, with Cornelius's Last
Judgment and other frescos ; and a great square, witli
statues, bounded by the Priests' Seminary, the Max-
Joseph School and the University (1,400 students) .
Beyond the Gate of Victory is the Academy of Art,
with figures of Castor and Pollux at the entrance.
From the 3Iax-Joseph Platz (on which are the
Theatre, Royal Palace, Post Office and Max-Joseph's
Statue) the handsome Maximilian-Strasse, 3-^ M.
long, runs to the Isar, by the Four-Seasons Ilotei, the
Government buildings, a long square with statues
(one of the Massachusetts Count Rumford), and the
old National Museum, to the handsome Maximilia-
neum civil-service school, adorned with frescos and
statuary. The huge brick Cathedral (1468-88) is
118 ft. high inside, and has towers 357 ft. high, and 30
windows 72 ft. high, several monuments, and a captured
Turkish flag. St. MichaeVs Ch. has a noble dome, and
Thorwaldsen s jonument to Eugene Beauharnais, vice-
roy of Italy The AllefheiligenUrche is a magnificent
Byzantine ch., rich in colored marbles and frescos on
gold ground. St. Bo7iiface, an imitation of a 5th-
century basiUca, is a very beautiful 4-aisled ch., with
round arches supported by 66 monolithic columns of
gray Tyrolese marble, gilded roof-timbers, royal tombs,
and many frescos by Hess. The statue ofMaximilianI
was designed by Thorwaldsen, and made of captured
Turkish cannon. Near it is the mediaeval Wittelshach
Palace,— The Academy of Science, in the old Jesuits
College, has vast collections of fossils, minerals, coiuSu
MUNICH. 263
easts, etc. See also the statues of Scliiller, Gluck,
Orlando di Lasso, and Max Emanuel ; the Marian
Column (1638) ; the Obelisk, 100 ft. high, of captured
gun-metal, to 30,000 Bavarians who died in the Russian
war ; the ancient and imposing Isar and Neuhauser
Gates ; the great bronze-foundry, with collection of
mod/^ls (daily, 1-6) ; the Museum of Schwanthaler's
works ; the great beer-gardens (especially the Hof-
Brewery) ; and the splendid arcaded cemetery.
The Old Pinakothek (open daily, except Sat.,
19-3) is a vast Renaissance structure, adorned with
34 statues of famous artists, and with a long arcade
frescoed by Cornelius with scenes from the history of
mediaeval art. The Museum contains 1,400 paintings,
including fine works of Raphael, Correggio, Titian,
Holbein, Diirer, and Rubens. On the ground iloor,
300,000 engravings, 9,000 drawings, and cabinets of
Greek and Etruscan vases (catalogue, 1 mk.). The
Ne-w Pinakothek (open free Sun., Tues., Thurs., and
Sat., 10-12 and 2-4), frescoed outside from Kaulbach's
designs, contains 650 modern paintings (mostly of the
Munich school) by Kaulbach, Overbeck, etc. The
Glyptothek (free Mon., Wed. and Fri., other days
Imk.) is a handsome Ionic building, with 12 richly
frescoed vaulted halls, enshrining Egyptian, Greek,
Latin, and modern sculptures, and choice works of
Canova, Thorwaldsen, Dannecker, etc. Opposite is the
Corinthian Hxhihition Building, where new Munich
pictures are exhibited and sold every summer ; and
N. W. is the famous Stained-Glcifis Institution. The
Propylsea Gate in the Konigz-Platz is a splendid
copy of the gateway to the Acropolis at Athens, built
in 1863, and adorned with sculptures. To the west of
this gate is the Schark Gallery, containing excellent
collection of the works of modern German authors.
264 OBER-AMMERGAU. — INNSBRUCK.
The English Garden, laid out by Count E-umford^
begins at the Royal Palace, and runs N. 4 M. You
can drive through it to the Observatory, 1^ M. 1^ M.
outside the Carlsthor is the Hall of Fame, a Doric
colonnade containing busts of 80 national celebrities.
Here stands the bronze Stahie of Bavaria, 56 ft. high.
Ascend into its head, v^hence there is a fine view. The
royal chateau and deer-park Nymphenburg and tlie
Porcelain factory are 3 M. W. of Munich. The Lake
of Starnberg (15 M. ; rly. in 1 hr.) 12i X 3 M. ia
area, has fine mt. vievt^s, villas of wealthy Munichers,
and several chateaux.
Persons spending a day in Mnnicli can obtain a good
mid-day lunch at Schleich's, 8 Brienner-Strasse. Operas
at Hof und National-Theatre (prices low), Sun., Mon.,
Thurs. and Fri., except in July (open, as usual in Ger-
many, at 6.30 or 7). Good classical music on Sun. at St.
Michael's, the Court church.
To reach Ober-Ammergau take train to Murnau,
\\\ M., whence carriage, passing the ancient abbey of
Mtal and up the Ammerthal. This is a pleasant
summer-journey among Bavarian mts. and lakes, and
into the country of the Passion Play. See local guides.
Through the Tyrol to Italy. — Prom Munich to
Verona, 286 M. (20-24 hrs. ; fares, 24 mk. 92 pf.,
18 mk., llmk. 91pf. ; to Innsbruck, llmk. 60pf.,
8 mk. 5 pf., 5imk.). The rly. leads by Rosenheim to
Kufstein (^Post Hotel), an ancient fortress command-
ing the Tyrolese frontier ; and up the beautiful valley
of the Inn ; by busy and picturesque old Schwaz,
among rich iron and copper mines ; and Hall, whose
ch. has a picture by Diirer.
Innsbruck {Hotel de V Europe; Tirol; Stadt
Milnchen), the capital of the Tyrol (24,000 inh.), is
beautifully situated in tiie midst of mts.. 6-8,000 ft
THE TYROL. 265
high, whose peaks seem to overhang its streets. On
the wooden bridge which gives name to the town,
Hofer's Tyrolese riflemen thrice defeated Napoleon's
Bavarians in the War of Independence (1809). Hofer,
the innkeeper who led the Tyrol in arms against the
French for 14 years, and was shot by Napoleon at
Mantua, now lies in the Silver Chapel of Innsbruck's
Franciscan CIi., under a splendid monument. In the
same ch. is the monument (1513-83) of the Emperor
Maximilian I., a bronze statue kneeling on a sarcopha-
gus, and surrounded by 28 royal bronze statues and 24
exquisite historical reliefs, in marble (which the sac-
ristan uncovers and explains). Queen Christina of
Sweden abjured Protestantism in tliis ch. in 1654. See
also the Palace, built by Maria Theresa ; the Golden
Roof; the University ; tlie Triumphal Arch; the in-
teresting museum and picture-gallery; the ancient
Capuchin Monaster^/ ; the wealthy Abbey of Wilteni
and the fine old castle of Anibras (13th century).
The rly. ascends the Lill valley, and crosses tne
Brenner Pass, 4,588 ft. high, the water-shed between
the Adriatic and Black Seas. At the fortress of
'Franzensfeste trains stop for meals. Erom Sterzing
the glaciers of the Stubbaythal are visible. Then comes
semi-Italian Brixen, an ancient ecclesiastical capital,
with many chs. and cloisters ; Bozen {Hotel Victoria ;
Kaiserkrone), frequented by invalids, and in one of the
"finest Tyrolese glens, with grand excursions to Meran,
etc. ; mountain-girdled Trent {Europa'), once an Etrus-
can town, known to Strabo and Ptolemy, and now
rich in old towers, ruined castles, marble palace*?, a
grand 13th-century cathedral, and the Ch. of Sta. Maria
Maggiore, where the celebrated Council of Trent held
its sessions, 1545-63 ; and Roveredo, on the Adige.
Beyond, the line runs through a region familiar to
Dante, entering Italy beyond Ala.
:i66 ULM. — STUTTGART.
Switzer)andv[i?ij be readied directly from Munich, by rly. to
Lindau, whence boat across Lake Constance to Romanshorn,
and rly. to Zurich (tares, to Lindau, 17 mks. 70 pf., llf mks.,
7 mks- 55 pf. ; to Zurich, 31f mks., 22 mks. 45 pf.). We rec
ommend the tourist, however, to go on from Munich to Augs-
burg and Stuttgart, with a detour to Nuremberg, Baireuth,
etc. ; and from Nuremberg or Wiirzburg to Heidelberg.
Augsburg, Stuttgart, Nuremberg,
Heidelberg.
Rly. in 1^2 hrs. from Munich to Augsburg {Bai'
erischerhof; Kaiserhof: Drei Mohreri, a very ancient
hotel, in which Charles V. was entertained), once,
a free imperial town of vast wealtli, and the centre or
trade between Germany and the Levant, now has 76,000
iiihab. There remain many picturesque old houses,
frescoed outside ; the ancient Falace in which the
Augsburg Confession was given ; the venerable chs. of
St. Anna and St. Ulrich ; the Rathhaus (1616-20),
with its Golden Hall ; the rambling Gothic Cathedral
(995), with handsome cloisters ; and the frescoed Ftig-
gerhaus, the home of the richest merchants of 16th-
century Europe. See also the fountains, the Arsenal,
the Museum, and the gallery of Suabian pictures.
It is 3-3 hrs. (6 fl. 80 kr., 4 fl. 55 kr., 2 fl. 90 kr.) to
Ulra {Hotel BaJiJiliof, Jlunste?', Goldener Loive,
Baumstark), a fortress of Wiirtemburg (37,000 inh;),
on the Danube. The Gothic Cathedral (1377) has im-
mense organ, finely carved oaken stalls, and a nave
137 ft. high. Grand view of the Alps from the tower
(528 ft. high), Rly. to Lake Constance in 4-5 hrs.
Rly. from Ulm across Wtirtemberg (2^-4 hrs.) to
StnttgB.rt(Margum^df; Royal; Silher; Dierlamm)
capital of Wiirtemburg (250,000 inhab.), beautifully
CANNSTADT. — NUREMBERG. 267
(Situated among the lulls and vineyards, and the home
of a large Anglo-American colony. The l^'dnigsbau
(Royal Palace) has an Ionic colonnade and Corinthian
porticos. Opposite, across the Schloss-Platz, is the
new Palace (1746-1807), containing very fnie sculp-
tures (open daily, 9-6). Near by are the Theatre and
the Old Palace (1553-70) ; also the Stiftsklrche
(1436-95), with statues of 11 Counts of Wiirtemberg;
Thorwaldsen's statue of Scliiiler ; and various na-
tional buildings. The Royal Library (open daily, ex-
cept Sat. and' Sun.) contains 500,000 vols, and 3,800
MSS. ; and the Museum, of Art (open daily except
Men.) lias a collection of pictures and statuary. The
Kbiiigs-Strasse and Neckar-Strasse are the chief streets.
There are small but interesting museums, and good
schools. Charming views from the Hasenberg,
Uhlandshoiie, and Schillershohe. Visit Stadt-Q-arten.
The Anlagen park, decorated with statues, extends
over 2 M., to Ca.nnata.dt {Vier Jahreszeiten ; Bahiu
hqf; Bar), on the Neckar, with warm saline and cha-
lybeate springs, much frequented by invalids. See
the Royal Villa, the Rosenstein, and other villas on
the heights ; also the Kursaal and the Wilhelma.
The grave of Freiligrath is here. There are several
other notable excursions to be made from Stuttgart.
From xiugsburg (fares, 12 mks. 60 pf., 9 mks., 5f
mks.), or from Stuttgart, via Grailsheim and Ansbach
C19 mks. 70 kr., 13 mks. 85 kr.), go to
Nuremberg {Wiifelsbach ; Victoria; Goldener
Adler ; Wurtembergerhof ; Grand), a delightful
old town (140,000 inhabitants), famous for its
quaint media3val houses, oriel windows, and toy
factories, and the centre of trade between North
and South Germany. At one time there flourished
here Veit Stoss, Vischer, and Kraft't, the carvers; the
teacher and disciples of Albert Diirer, and the great
268 NUREMBERG.
master liimself; and Hans Sachs, tlie eobbler-poee.
The two latter ai'e buried in St. John's Cemetery ; their
houses are religiously kept ; E.auch's statue of Durer
stands in the Milk Market, and Hans Sachs's monu-
ment is in the Spital-Platz. The lofty wall which
-encircles Nuremberg has 75 towers of masonry, the 4
largest of which were built by linger. Take a walk
around these walls, and also note the sin^idar old
bridges over the Pegnitz. Peter Vischer is buried at
<6V. Rochus, and his house is preserved. The finest ch.
is St. Lawrence, a red-sandstone structure (1287-1477),
with a splendid W. portal and rose-window, Krafft's
wonderful ciborium, 66ft. high, and Veit Stoss's wood
carvings. See fountains .outside. In the Goose Mar-
ket is the ancient bronze fountain- figure of the Little
Goose Man. The Frauenkirche has splendid fagade,
and rich old glass and works of art inside. Opposite
is a tall Gothic column (1385-96), surrounded with
statues of heroes. Si. Sebaldus, a 13th-century Gothic
basijica, contains rare old paintings, and- the famous
Shrine of St. Sebaldus, "the most exquisite gem of
German art," whose multitude of statues and carvings
were made by Yischer and his sons (1506-19) Op-
posite is St. Maurice, now a gallery containing many
old German paintings. St. Egiduis (1140) has an
altar-piece by Van Dyck. The Germanic Museum, in
an old Carthusian convent (beautiful cloisters), has a
fresco by Kaulbach, and many mediaeval rehcs and
pictures. In the old Dominican convent is the Maxi-
milian collection of mediaeval antiquities; also, the
Town Library (open daily, 9-12, 3-6), with 70,000
vols, and 2,000 MSS. The Burg is a Gothic castle
on a rock to the N., built in 10:^4, and enlarged by
Barbarossa in 1158, destroyed in 1420, and now par-
tially restored. It is rich in ponderous towers, quaint
chapels and anti(^ue halls. In main tower (adm. 20
RATISBON. - WALHALLA. ~ KELHEIM. 269
pf.) is a torture chamber, the chief instrument in
which is an "Iron Virgin." Beautiful view from here
over town and country. The Rathhaus contains
many pictures. See also the new law-courts and the
Sclione Brun7ien.
Ratisbon (Maximilian; Oruner Kranz; National;
Kar7nelite7ibrau), called in German Regejisburg, a very
ancient free town, where the Imperial Diet was held
from 1663 to lb08, is now Bavarian. There are many
mediaeval houses, with armorial bearings still upon
them, and with towers of defence (especially in Ambas-
sadors'-St.). The Cathedral (1275) has a rich fa9ade
and porch, lofty towers, and a very symmetrical nave,
129 ft. high; also, fine monuments by Canova and
Vischer, an altar of silver, and cloisters. The 12th-
century Benedictine Ch. of St. James has strange old
sculptures ; and the Benedictine Monastery of St. Em-
meran, founded in 652, and enriched by Charlemagne,
has since 1813 been the palace of the Princes of Thurn
and Taxis. The 14th-century Rathhaus contains many
implements of torture.
7 M. distant (steamboat or tramway), on a hill
over the Danube, is the Walhalla, built 1830-42 (at
a cost of $3,400,000) by King Lewis as a Temple of
Eame. It resembles the Athenian Parthenon, and is
of huge granite blocks, surrounded with 52 Doric
columns, and adorned in the pedirients with Schwan-
thaler's sculptures of the Battles of Leipsic and Armin-
ius. The roof is of iron and copper. The interior
hall, 180 X 50 ft., decorated with friezes, contains
6 Victory statues by E,auch,and 101 busts of illustrious
Germans. View of Bavarian Forest and Alps.
Kelheim, up the Danube, has the huge ciioulai
Hall of Liberation, built by King Lewis, 1842-63, to
commemorate the Battle of Leipsic. It i3 lined with
270 BAMBERG. - BAIREUTH, - HEIDELBERG.
marble, and contains 84 Victory statues, of Carrara
marble; while outside are 18 colossal statues.
^'W-ax7.'bvLY^{Uussischer Hof) has a vast Royal Palace,
di Cathedral (1189-1240), the Neumiiuster Cb. (with
tomb of Walther von der Vogelweide), the handsome
Mariencapelle, and a university. Kly. (7 niks. 60 kr.,
5 mks. 5 Icr., 3 mks. 20 kr.) to Baireuth, by
IBainhevg (Bambei^ger Hbf),a, hill-town, with a splen.
did 12th-century Romanesque Cathedral, rich in monu-
ments and rehcs. The Lijceum contains 2,600 MSS.
In \)(\e,Falace, Napoleon 1. declared war against Prussia
The rly. runs around the Pranconian Switzerland to
Baireuth {Reichsadler ; Sonne; Anker), the seat
of "Wagner's great theatre, and of an old opera house.
Jean Paul Ricliter's house, statue, and tomb are here.
Se€ Wagner's house and grave, the Palaces, the
war monument of 1870-71, and the ducal chateaux of
the Eremitage and the Fantaisle (each 3 M. out). Ex-
cursions into the Fichtelgebirge.
Prom Wiirzburg it is 5-7 hrs. (fares, 12 mks. 80 pf.,
8-| raks., 5 mks. 45 pf.) to
Heidelberg {Hotel de V Europe ; Grand; Schrieder ;
Victoria, near stat. In town, Prinz Carl ; Perkeo ;
Adler. On hill, Schlossa,nd Bellevue), renowned for
its history, its learned University, and its beautiful
situation, where the mo untainous Neckar valley enters
the great Rhine plain. The University (founded 1386)
has valuable museums, and a library of 400,000
vols. The buildings are homely. The Gasile, 380
ft. above the Neckar, was founded in 1195 and
added to by subsequent electors and kings. In
1689 the French Gen. Melac, forced to retreat
thence, burned and blew up the castle ; and the
destruction was completed by lightning in 1764.
. It is the grandest ruin in Germany. See the splendid
Renaissance Otto-IIeinrichs building (1556) ; Erie-
SPIRES. — WORMS. 271
iri^hs building (1601), rich in statues, and containing
the great Tun (dtO,000 gallons) ; and other palaces,
towers, and gardens. From the Kouigsstuhl, 905 ft.
above the castle (1 hr. by road), grand view of the
Rhine and Neckar valleys, the Black Eorest, Taunus,
and Odenwald, and out to Strasbourg Cathedral.
Spires, Worms, Baden, Strasbourg.
It is a short ride, down the Neckar valley, to
Mannheim {Deutscher Hof; Pfdlzer Hof; Lehn),
a town of 165,000 mhab. , on the Rhine, very regularly
laid out, and adorned with a great palace and picture-
gallery and several statues. Eine rly.-bridge across
the Rhine, to Ludioigshaven. 1 hr. by rly. to the S. is
Spires {Rhehmcher Rof ; Wittelshacher Hof), the
capital of the Bavarian Palatinate (19,000 inhab.).
The vast and imposing Romanesque Cathedral (open
9-11, 2-6) was founded in 1030, and in 1146 St.
Bernhard preached the Crusade in it. 9 German em-
perors and 3 empresses were buried here. See new
faQade and Emperor's Hall; the magnificent modern
frescos; and the imperial statues by Schwanthaler.
A handsome Memorial Church has recently been
erected here to commemorate the protests uttered
against the decree of the diet of Speyer in 1529,
whence came the designation " Protestant."
Worms {Alter Kaiser; Martmann), f hr. N. of
Ludwigshaven, successively capital of Burgundian and
Pranconian kings, and of Charlemagne, is now a de-
cadent Hessian town. The splendid Romanesque Ca-
thedral (1110) has 4 towers and 2 domes, and a stately
interior, 357 ft. long. On the square occurred events
sung of in the Niebelungenlied ; and on one side is the
Renaissance HeiVsche Ham, on the site of the palace
where Luther defended his doctrines before Charles V,
^ 72 DARMSTADT. — CARLSRUHE. — BADEN.
iand the Diet of Worms (1521). Luther s Monument
(built 1859-68) consists of his colossal statue, around
and below which are statues of 6 Reformers, 2 Protes-
tant princes, and 3 German cities. It is a grand work.
Darmstadt {Traube ; Britannia)^ the hand-
some capital of Hesse (64,000 inhab.), has in its Palace
a library of 600,000 vols., and a noble gallery of 700
paintings (open daily). In the palace on Anna-Strasse
is the celebrated Meyer Madonna, by Holbein (1 mk,).
From Heidelberg,2 hrs. (5rnks. 5pf. , 3mi?s. 60pf .) to
Carlsruhe (Griiiier Mof; Hotel Grosse), the capital
of Baden (90,000 inhab.), with handsome modern
buildings, squares, and monuments. The streets
radiate like fan-sticks from the handsome Palace
and park. The Romanesque Hall of Art contains
6-70() pictures, and other collections. From hand-
some rly. Stat, 1 hr. (3 mks. 4G pf., 2 mks. 35 pf.-.
change cars at Oos) to
Baden-Baden (F^c^6>?'^a; Badischer; Englischerj;
Messmer; Darmstadt), in a glen amid the foothills of
the Black Porest, 40,000 foreigners come here yearly,
to indulge in fashionable lounging, to enjoy the mild
climate and beautiful environs, and to drink the min-
eral waters. Vast and magnificent Trink-Halle, Con-
Tersation-House, and Bath-House. The lofty New
-Castle (1 mk.), built 1479-1519, is the summer home
of the Grand Duke. Band music in the town several
times daily. Good theatre. Prices at Baden generally
,high. Excursions thence into the Black Forest.
Rly. S. to Kehl, where the Rhine is crossed to
Strasbourg {Maison Rouge ; Hotel de la Ville de
{Paris; Pfeijfer; National), the capital of Al-
sace-Lorraine (140,000 inh.), terribly bombarded in
the war of 1870-71. The grand Cathedral, built 1015-
.1439, has magnificent f aQade by Erwin von Steinbach
STRASBOUBG. — FREIBUEG. 273
(1318), and a spire 465 ft. high (ascent, l|mk.)^
whence an exteubive view is gained, even to the
Jura Mts. The interior, 323 ft. long and 99 ft.
high, with its 15th-century stained windows, slender
and riclily carved pillars, and Erwin's tomb and
pillar, is impressive. The celebrated Astronomical
Clock is in the S. transept. The bombardment of
1870, which destroyed the Library, Theatre, Picture
Gallery, etc., spared the Cathedral. The new UnU
versity, now specially favored by Germany, is at the
Fischer Gate. The new Library already has 800,-
000 vols. In 8t, Thomas Gh. (10 pf.) is a vast marble
monument to Marshal Saxe, which it took 20 years
to make. In the Place Gutenberg is a statue of Gut-
enberg. The New Temple has been rebuilt magnifi-
cently. Many statues on the squares. Strasbourg
is an important strategic point, and vast fortifica-
tions have recently been erected by the Germans.
From Strasbourg go to Basle (fares, 11|- mks., 7
mks. 68 pf., 4 mks. 90 pf.) along the Black Forest.
Freiburg {Zahrincier ; Victoria ; Europe) is a
pretty forest-town of 54,000 inhab., and the capital
of the Breisgau. It has suffered much in many
wars. The Cathedral is a symmetrical red-sandstone
Gothic ch. (1122-1236), with a remarkable tower, 397
ft. high ; a rich portal, with statuary ; and an inte-
rior (342ft. X 102ft. and 85ft. high) li.L^lited frcm five
stained windows, and containing many old monu-
ments, paintings, etc. (best time to visit, 10.30-12 ;
fee at choir, 50 pf. ; to tower, 60 pf .). The Eavfhaus^-
on the S., is a handsome 15th-century building.
The new Victory Monument chiefly honors Gen. von
Werder. See the quaint fountains, the streams of
pure water in the streets, and the pretty pebble pave-
ments. Climb the 8chlossherg. Grand view over
Black Forest, Vosges, and Rhineland.
From Freib-jrg to Basle, 2 hrs. ; 5| mks. , 4 mkjw
274 BASLE.
SWITZERLAND.
IT'O^ direct routes from Paris, see page 199. Swiss
"'■ money is in francs, like French. The Swiss
season is Aug. in the high Alps, July 15 to Sept. 15
elsewhere. Return and excursion tickets on all Swiss
rlys. Pensions (large summer boarding-houses) at
all chief resorts, $.80-$2.00 a day.
Basle J Zurich!, Lake Constance.
Basle (Trois Hois; Metropole; Bauer; SchweizeV'
Jiof; Victoria; Euler), a town of 125,000 inhab., on
Rhine, has rlys. in every direction. There are many
handsome streets, and pleasant parks and promenades.
The Cathedral, built by Henry II. in 1010-19, and re^
stored after destructions by fire and earthquake, is an
imposing Gothic building of red sandstone, no\>
Protestant (Wed., 2-4, free ; other times ^fr.) Ancient
statuary on facades; 2 lofty towers, built in 1500. Ii.
rich and beautiful interior see the roodloft (1381)
stained windows; Chapel of St. Nicholas; font (1465):
pulpit (1486); tombs of Erasmus and of Empress
Anna; sculptures on N. portal and around choir.
Very fine cloisters (1362-1487), leading to the Pfalz
terrace, Historical Museum (Sun. and Wed. free;
closed on Monday; other days ^ fr.) has fragments
of the 15th century fresco of The Dance of Death.
The Museum (ifr. ; Sun„ and Wed. free), has many
historic and scientific curiosities, and the largest Swiss
picture-gallery, including many choice Holbeins (The
Passion, etc.) and works of modern Germans. Also
University Library (200,000 vols.) and a great hall.
The Mission Mouse^ for education of missionaries, is
SCHAFFHAUSEN. 275
one of the powerful local theological influences, and
has an interesting museum (open daily). See the Town
Hall (1508); the Spahlen Gate (1400); the quaint
fountains; and St. Elizabeth'' s Church, with view
from tower.
Basle to Lucerne, direct, 55J M. ; fares, 9 fr. 40 c,
6 fr. 60c., 4 fr. 40c. It is better, however, to go via
the Falls of the Rhine and Lake Constance, bv rly. up
the Rhine. From Basle it is 59 M. (9^ fr., 6 fr. 30 c,
4 fr. 5c.) to
Schaffhausen {National ; 3Iuller ; Riese) a pic-
turesque town, with quaint, old frescoed houses; a
wall with 6 gates, and old towers; a massive castle
(1564); and a Romanesque Cathedral (1101). The bell
inscribed Vivos voco, mortuosplango, fulgurafrango,
cast in 1486, is in room near cloisters. The Falls of
the Rhine may be visited hence (carriage, 2 fr. 40 c.,
or tram) . They are near Neuhausen stat. (Schweizer-
hof, with view of Alps and Falls; Bellevue). Here
the Rhine, 380-400 H. wide, descends 100 ft., in
rapids, whirlpools and 3 falls, over limestone ledges.
It is the largest fall in Europe, and should be seen
by moonlight, or under its morning or late-afternoon
rainbows. You may ascend the rock which divides
the falls (3 fr.); or view them from Laufen castle
(1 fr.), the best point, where the Fischetz platform
should be visited. The falls are illuminated summer
I evenings by colored lights, for which a small charge
• is made in the hotel bill.
I Constance {Insel ; Ilechf), a decadent town of
I 21,000 inhab. The Cathedral (1502) has notable
1 stained glass, bas-reliefs, cloisters, choir-stalls, and
I the stone on which John Huss is reported to have
i stood when sentenced. W. of the town is a stone
I marking where Huss and Jerome of Prague were
burned alive (1415-16). In/ the frescoed Kaufhans
(1^ fr.) the Council of Constance met (1414-18). Se^
276 ZURICH.
Town Hall (1593), St. Stephen's Ch., and former
Dominican monastery, on an island, now converted
into the Insel Hotel; with Romanesque cloisters.
Zurich {Hotel JBaur au Lac; Bellevue ; National).,
on the swift green river Limmat, at the foot of the
beautiful Lake Ziirich. Remarkable view (espe-
cially by moonlight) fi'om bridge, of villages, villas,
embowered spires, and distant Alps. Ziirich is
famous for learned schools, beautiful environs,
and conclaves of political exiles. See the Ro-
manesque Cathedral (12th century), with fine
cloisters and statue of Charlemagne; Town Hall;
the handsome Quai-Bruclce {\^'$)'^); Holie Promenade,
with fine view ; Library, with rare MSS. ; Polytech-^
nic School, splendid view from terrace; Art Building,
St. Augustijies Ch.; St. Peters Ch., where Lavater
preached 23 years ; Arsenal, with Tell's bow, Zwing-
lius's battle-axe, etc. ; and Botanic Gardens, with ;
busts of de Candolle and other botanists.
In the Platz Promenade, in the triangle between
the Sihl and Limmat rivers, is the Swiss National
Museum (open daily ex. Mon. ; free in afternoon, 1
fr. in morning). This contains a miscellaneous col-
lection of objects illustrating Swiss history, art, and
industrial progress; the collection of stained glass is
particularly fine. The Tonhalle, on the lake w. of
the Quai-Briicke, has good restaurant; concert here
every evening.
Lake Constance (in German the Boden-See, in
Latin Lacus Brigantiims) is very pretty in summer,
but has not the beauty of the other Swiss lakes. It is
42x8 M. in area, and 156^ M. around; very deep;
with green water, abounding in trout ; flat, or undu-
la.ting shores ; and distant views of the Alps of Yorarl-
berg and Appenzell. In 4 centuries it has frozen over
but 1 5 times. It lies between Baden, Austria, Bavaria,
Y/iirtemberg, and Switzerland. There is an immense
traffic between the lake-ports,
THE SPLUGEN PASS. 277
The Uetliberg, 2,864 ft. high, 6 M. S. W. of Zil-
rich, is ascended by a rly. with a gradient in some
places of 7 in 100 ft. (3 fr. 50 c, 2 fr. ; return tickets,
5 fr., 3 f r.). Tlie view includes Zurich and its lake, the
Linimat Yalley, the Alps from the Sentis to the Jung-
frau, the Righi, Pilatus, the Juras, Yosges, and Black-
Forest peaks. Magnificent views from road up.
The Splligen Pass.
Ziirich (or Rohrschacli) is a good point from which
to visit the Spliigen Pass. Very pleasant trip to its
summit, although it is not the best route into Italv.
Go i)y steamer (be careful to start from the right pier;
2-2 1 hrs. ; fares, 2 fr. 20 c, 1 fr. 40 c.) up the lovely
Lake of Ziirich, 25^ X 2^ M. in area, with transpar-
ent bluish-green water rellecting the chain of happy
shore-villages and the snowy Alps of Schwyz and Gla-
rus, to Rappersch-wyl {flofel du Lac ; Schvcm), which
has the Lindenhof, Capuchin monastery, deer-park,
and ancient castle, containing the Polish National Mm-
seum. Kly. from Ziirich to Kapperschwyl, 22-|- M. ;
fares, 4 fr. 70 c, 2 fr, 20 c. ; to Coire, 4-5 hrs. ; fares,
12 fr. 30 c, 8 fr. 90 c. The rly. follows Lake Ziirich
from Rapperschwyl to Schmerikon ; ascends the Linth
^valley : runs along the shore of the magnificent Lake
of Wallenstadt for 12 M. ; enters upper Rhine val-
ley ; and runs S., through grand scenery, to
Ragatz {QuellenJiof and Ragafz, both united with
the Casino; Schiveizerliof; Tamina; Bristol) favorite
summer-resort at the mouth of the wonderful Tamina
gorge, 2^ M. up which are the hot saline baths of Tfdffers^
amid very impressive rocky scenery, and cliffs 6-700 ft.
high. A cable tramcar runs to the springs every \ hr.,, \
round trip If r. 30c. These waters have been prized for
278 COIRE.
800 years. They are conducted to the baths at Ragat>;
The philosopher Schelling is buried at Ragatz.
The rly. ascends the Rhine valley, by the 4th
century Roman tower of Mayenfeld, and many pretty
villages, vineyards, and castles, to
Coire (SteinhocJc; Lukmamer), the capital of the
Canton of the Grisons (12,000 inhab.), surrounded
with picturesque walls and Roman towers, and nest-
ling under the Ilittetiberg. The Cathedral {\2ih. c&n.-
tury) contains a fine High Altar of carved wood,
dating from 1490, and rare Roman antiquities. The
EpiscoiJal Palace is very ancient (bishopric founded
in 4th century). Grand views from the Rosenhiigel
and other hills.
The Splugen Pass is reached twice daily by rly.
from Coire to Thusis (1 hr. ; 17 M. ; 5 f r. 60 c, 4 fr.
20 c), thence by diligence (4 hrs. ; 16 M. ; 6 fr, 65 c. ;
cou2Je, 7 f r. 90 c). Thusis ( Via Mala;. Post HotM)
is a centre of grand excursions. Many tourists
walk from here up through the Via Mala, a
tremendous gorge between calcareous cliffs 1,600
feet high, with the Rhine roaring heavily below.
Thousands of lives have been lost by avalanches and
land-slips in this " Bad Way." The safe ne^v road, w^ith
its tunnels and bridges, was built in 1822. A stone
dropped from Second Bridge (247 ft. high ; here the
scenery is grandest) makes a noise liie a camion.
The verdant farms of the Valley of Schams open out
above ; and the road passes Zillis, with its venerable
ch. ; Andeer, an old Romansch village ; traverses the
wild Roffna Ravine, 3 M. long, by the Rhine cascades ;
comes into view of the Einshorn and Pizzo Uccello
peaks ; and reaches Splxigen {Hotel Bodenhaus),
where the diligences all stop for dinner.
Diligences twice daily from Splilgen to Chiavenna
<10 fr., cou:pe 12 fr.) ; rly. thence to Colico (3 fr., 2J fr..
BERNARDINO PASS. 279
1^ fr. It is about 7 M. from Spliigen to the top of
the pass, 6,945 ft. high, the Italian frontier line, with
jSuretfaJiorner (9,925 ft.) on one side, and Schnee-
liorn(10,14S> ft.; Milan and Suabia are visible from
it) on the other. The road descends by leagues of
zigzags and galleries, ravines and cascades, to the
vineyards and chestnut fields of Chiavenna {Con-
radi), with its ruined castle and fine old ch. ; thence
rly. down a mountain-girdled valley by liiva to
Colico, on Lake Como.
By the Bernardino Pass, diligences run daily to
Mesocco (lOfr. 25), thence by electric ry, to Bellin-
zona (5f.5.) The road ascends the desolate Rheinwald
valley 8-9 M. to the top of the pass (6,768 ft. high),
surrounded by Alps and glaciers ; and thence de-
scends by long zigzags, to Sail Beimardino,
Mesocco, Cama, Roveredo and other charming
Italian-Swiss villages, amid very grand scenery.
From Bellinzona, riy. 14 M. to Locarno (f hr. ; 2 fr.
80 c, 1 fr. 60 c, 1 fr. 15 c), whence rly. to Lake
Como and Mihan.
The Engadine is a dry, cold, and silent valley,
3,300 to 5,800 ft. high, 57 M. long, and 1 M. wide,
between the Engadine and Bernina Alps and glaciers.
It is divided into the Upper Engadine and the Lower
Engadine; the former extends 24 M. from the
Malaja Pass to Punt Ota, a bridge crossing a sm.all
brook emptymg into the Inn River ; the latter, about
33 M. long, extends from Punt Ota to Martinsbruck
on the Tyrolese frontier. The Upper Engadine, near
St. Moritz, is much frequented, especially by English
and Americans, and for those who need a cool, bracing
air it is a wonderful health resort, being particularly
adapted to the outdoor treatment of consumption.
From Coire the Albiila railway (59i M. ; 4 hrs. ;
23 fr. 25, 15 fr. 50) runs through picturesque moun-
tain scenery, over numerous viaducts, and through
41 tunnels, one of them 4| M. in length, to
380 PONTRESINA - LUCERNE
St, Moritz {Kulm; Belvedere ; Palace; Grand;
Schiveizerhof) , the highest settlement in the valley
(6,000 ft.), a village of 2,000 inhabitants. Here is
buried the founder of the Children's Aid Society of
NewYork, Mr. Charles Loring^Brace. There are grand
mountain views from several' points in the village.
Three miles distant (electric tram, fare 20c.) are the
Baths of St. Moritz {Neues StaMhad; Victoria;
Bellevue; Engadinerhof; Kurhaus; Du Lac), fam-
ous for chalybeate springs, impregnated with carbonic
acid and alkaline salts. Alps and glaciers surround
the place, and the air is invigorating to invalids.
Pontresina (Roseg; Weisses Kreuz; Languard)y
7 M. from St. Moritz, is the starting-point for excur'
sions in the Bernina chain. The season is shori,
prices high, and society good.
The magnificent Bernina Pass, 7,657 ft. high, is
crossed by daily diligences from Samaden, in 5^ hrs.
(9 fr. 89) via Pontresina, to Poschiavo, whence elec-
tric tram to Tirano; then rly. to Colico, on Lake
Como (3 hr. ; 22 fr. 75, 17 fr. 40).
Lucerne, the Rigi, the St, Qothard Route
Rly. from Basle (3^- hrs. ; fares, 9 fr. 40 c, 6 fr. 60 c,
4 fr. 70 c); or from Zurich, by Zug {Q^ fr., 4fr. 55c.,
3i fr.) ; or from Berne (11 fr., 7i- fr._, 5 fr. 30 c); to
Lucerne {Schweizerliof ; JBeaurivage; National ;
Swan and Rigi; de V Europe; Tivoli; lAizernerliof;
Reh stock ; on left bank, Victoria; du Lac; Sau-
vage; Lngel), beautifully situated at the outlet of
the most lovely lake in Switzerland, between the
Pilatus and E-igi, and facing the Alps of Uri and
Engelberg. The Tow7i Hall has ancient carvings;
and in the Stiftshirclie see grand organ, carvings,
stained glass. Thorwaldsen's Lion of Lucerne is a
statue of a dying lion, 28ft. long, cut in the face of a
cliff, and commemorating 800 soldiers of the Swiss
THE BIGL-LAKE OF LUCERNE. 281
Guard, who died in defence of the Tuileries in 1792.
Cabell Bridge, built 1303, over river Reuss, has 154
old paintings on its roof, and ends at St. Peter's
Chapel (12 century). The Water Tower, according
to tradition, was once a lighthouse {lucerna), and
gave name to the town. It now contains the archives.
The Muhlen Bridge is ornamented with 30 singular
pictures of the Dance of Death. See also Museum
and Library (80,000 vols.) ; Stauffer's Alpine animals
(1 fr.); the Glacier Garden (1 fr.) ; and the Jesuit ch.
The SchweizerJwf Quay is a beautiful promenade with
many trees, between the palatial hotels and the lake.
The Rigi is a group of mts., 30-40 M. around, the
chief peak, the Kulm, being 5,905 ft. high (4,470 ft.
above the lake), and nearly surrounded by the lakes of
Lucerne, Zug, and Lowerz. The Kulm is ascended
by a mt. rly., like that on Mt. Washington, and ha.s
several hotels {Eigi-Kidm; Sonne; Rigi- Staff el; Rigi-
Kalthad), whose landlords have been compelled by
criticism to lower their prices and improve their man-
ners. Engage rooms in advance in July or Aug. ; for
then hundreds come up here to spend the night and
see the sunrise. Take plenty of warm wraps. It is
but 2^ hrs. from Lucerne to t^ie top, by steamer to
Vitznau, and mt. rly. thence (4^ M.; 7 fr.). Circular
ticket, good 3 days, from Zurich by Zug to the Rigi-
Kulm, down by rly. and steamer to Lucerne, and back
to Zurich, costs 22 f r. 40 c. , 19| fr. , 16 fr. 70 c. From
the crest you see a line of snowy Alps, 120 M. long,
the Sentis, Bernese range, Wetterhorn, Jungfrau,
etc. ; elsewhere, the Juras, Vosges, Suabian Mts.,
Black Forest ; many a famous Swiss town ; and 13
lakes. The Rigi-Scheidegg(-ff«^rMws), command-
ing a very noble view, is reached by branch rly.
From Vitznau go by steamer (2 hrs. ; 2 f r. 20 c. , 1 f r.
10 c.) to Flilelen, up the superb Lake of Lucerne
( Vierwaldstdtter-See, or Lake of the Four Forest Can'
282 ALTORF. — AMSTEG.
tons), tlie grandest in Europe, 1,433 ft. iiigli, 25 M.
long, and ]-4 M. wide. It forms an irregular cross,
between Yast mts. From the summer liotels at the
numerous villages — Beckenried, Gersau, Brunnen, etc.
■ — fine mt. excursions may be made. Just beyond
Seelisberg are the sacred springs of the Riitli, on wliose
meadow I'iirst, Erni, and Stauffacher founded the Swiss
liberties, in 1307. Beyond is Tell's Platte, with its
romantic chapel, on the ledge where Tell leaped ashore
from Gessler's boat. Marvellous scenery thence to tlie
head of the lake.
Superb views are had from several poin^ i near the
city. The finest is from the Sonnenterg (20 min. by
electric car and inclined rly. ; round trip 3 fr.) There
is a golf course here near the hotel. A fine view of
the mountains, the lake, and the town is also had
from CrUtscli, an elevation to the west, reached by
tram in 15 min. (return ticket 90 c). Another point
where there is a good view is the Drei Linde7i, 20
min, by carriage along a good road.
Pluelen {Adler ; Kreuz ; Tell) is the port of
Uri. 2 M. beyond is Altorf {Tell; Schlussel ;
Lowe), Uri's capita], in a Tnonn tain-walled valley,
and the reputed scene of Tell's shooting the apple. The
site is marked by a fountain. Colossal statue of Tell
near by. His birthplace, near Biirglen, is occupied by
a frescoed chapel. 9 M. beyond Altorf is Amsteg
(Stern; Kreuz ; Hirscli), where the Pass begnis. This
was the chief route over the Alps until 1800. The
road was built 1820-32. The scenery here is grander
than on any other pass. The Lucerne-Milan rly. runs
under the St. Gothard, in a tunnel nearly 9 M. long,
built 1872-82, at a cost of over ^10,000,000.
Beyond Amsteg, the road ascends the narrow Heuss
valley, with i.ne huge Bristeiistock on the 1. ; over tk©
ANDERMATT. - FUROA PASS. 283
iottj Pfafensprimg bge. ; by Wasen {Hotel des Alpes)
and Wattingen, near Rohrhach fall and the Teufeh
vtein; Geschenen, at the mouth of the tunnel ; up steep
ascents, and over the DevWs Bridge, where French,
Austrians, and Russians fought in 1799 ; through
the Urner Loch tunnel, into Urseren valley; and up
io Andermatt (BeUevue; du Touriste; St.' Oothard;
Oberalp; Krone), among high and aridmts. crowned
with snow. See chapel, and mineral collections. 9 M.
distant is the summit of the St. Gothard Pass (6.936 ft.
high), whence road descends steeply by the Hospice
to Airolo and Biasca, whence rly. to Milan.
It is better to return from the top of the Pass,
^pend the night at Andermatt, and go over the
Furca and Grimsel Passes to Interlaken.
From Andermatt diligences run in 5-6 hrs. (21 M. ;
8.]-fr. ; coupe, 10 fr. 20 c), through Hospenthal (Mey'
trhof; Lowe), 2^ M. out; and by a zigzag route up
the precipices, amid wonderful scenery, to the top of
fche Furca Pass (Hotel de la Furca), 7,992 ft. high;
past the grand and lofty Galenstock and Furkahorn;
and thence to the Rhone Glacier. This vast sea of
ice, 10,450 ft. high, is surrounded by lofty snowy
peaks, and gives birth to the famous river Rhone.
Longfellow, in Hyperion, describes it as a frozen cata-
ract, 2,000 ft, high, and many miles broad. You may
go thence to Brieg by diligence (5 hrs. ; 104-fr. ; coupe,
12 fr. 75 c), whence rly. to Visp, en route to Zermatt.
It is better to pass the night at the Hotel du Glacier du
Rhone; and at morn go by horse (32 fr.) along the
steep grassy Maienwand; up over the Grimsel Pass
(7,103 ft. high); by the Lake of the Dead, in which
the soldiers killed in the battles between the French
284 MEIEINGEN. — BEIENZ.
and AiTStrians hereabouts, in 1799, were buried; down
the steeps to the Hospice (now a hotel), in the rocky
mt. basin of the Orimselgrund, near the Agassizhora
and the Finster-Aarhorn, and 2 hrs, from the Unter-
Aar Glacier, where Prof. Agassiz abode in 1841 (ex-
cursion to top of Little Sidelhorn, 3 hrs. ; guide, 4fr.) ;
down the Aare ravine to the Handeck Falls (| fr.) ;
where the icy river precipitates itself 250 ft., in a deep
rocky gorge : by Guttanen, with its rock-strewn mead-
ows ; to Im-Hof, whence a good road leads to
Meiring-en {Sauvage; Meiringenhof; Couronne;
De V Ours) is beautifully situated in the Hasli valley
near the Reichenbach Falls. It was almost totally de-
stroyed by fire in October, 1891, but has been rebuilt.
From behind the Chalet I'Ami you can descend into
the canon of the Aare, It is 5|- hrs. hence to Han-
deck Falls (horse up and back, 15 fr.).
The Briinig Pass is one of the most frequented.
Lucerne to Alpnach (whence Pilatus may be
ascended) by steamer {1\ hrs.), and thence by
rail (10 fr.) to Bnenz, via Meiringen. You pass
the pretty hamlet of Sarnen, in a rich valley be-
tween high mts. ; Bacliseln^ with a saint's relics
in its ch. ; over the Brunig Pass, 3,395 ft. high
{Hotel Brunigkulm)\ and then downward, with
magnificent mt. views, to the Aare, where you
meet the valley road. We advise the tourist to
go from Lncerne to the top of the St. Gothard,
and thence over the Furca and Grimsel to Meir-
ingen. You may go thence to the top of the
Brunig in a morning.
Brienz {Bar; Weisses Krem);, on the mountain-
walled Lake of Brienz. 800 people are employed
here in wood-carving. The lake is 7^x2^ m., and
the deepest in Switzerland. Jt is traversed by the
INTERLAKEN. — GRINDELWALD. 285
4rMtish-green waters of the Aare. The Giessbach is
a series of 7 beautiful cascades, falling from rocks 1,148
ft. high, amid luxuriant herbage and stately trees, and
] illuminated at night by Bengal lights. A mt.-rly. leads
from the landing on the lake, over the tree-tops, to the
hotel (telegraph for rooms, and stay all night). By
steamer in 10 min. from Brienz; thence by footpath
jji 20 min. Steamer from Brienz, 7 times daily (3fr.,
Xir.), to Interlaken.
The Bernese Oberland
i !
I ', Interlaken {Victoria; 3Ietro;pole; Jungfrau; Des
Alpes; Belvedere; JimgfrauUich; Sonne; Cerf; de la
\ Gave ; Oberldnder ; Beilevue; Stadthaus; National,
' Dew^sc^-erAo/Vin the beautiful glen between the lakes
\ df Brienz and Thun, is the main rendezvous of tourists
I during the high season (July 15 to Oct. 1), and the
j best point for trips in any part of the Bernese Ober-
I land. People remaining 2-3 weeks in this great towa
\ of hotels can get board for 8-9 fr. a day, or in the
r pensions at 5-6 fr. See once magnificent Hohe weg
j promenade, lined with walnut-trees ; the Kursaal, with
semi-daily concerts ; the old wooden village of TJnter-
seen; the ruined castles of Unsprunnen and JFeissenau;
tod the precipitous Harder mt., where many fatal
accidents have occurred. The Interlaken hotels are
crowded with people of fashion ; and parties, balls, and
receptions continually occur.
Excursions. — The legal tariffs for carriages are printed
in a pamphlet (to be had at the hotels), and are ad-
hered to by drivers. Local guide-books (in English)
describe routes and locaHties. Grindel-wald {Bar;
Eiger ; Adler ; Du Glacter) is reached by railway or
private conveyance, and is near two vast glaciers, in
286 LAUTERBRUNNEN— MURREN.
a valley surrounded by the Wetterhorn, Mettenberg^
and Eiger.
Lauterbrunnen {SteinbocTc; Staubhach) is 7| M.
from Interlaken, in a narrow rock-girt glen, close to
the famous Staubbach (dust-brook), a slender but
unbroken fall 980 ft, high. Farther up the glen are
the grand Sclimadrihach Fall and the far-viewing
Steinberg Alp. A marvellous Alpine experience is
gained by climbing (3f hrs.) to Miirren {Grand
Hotel des Alpes; MUrren; Jungfrau; Eiger), a ham-
let 5,847 ft. high, on the edge of a cliif which fronts
on one of the grandest Oberland ranges. The trip
from Lauterbrunnen to Miirren can now be made
by rly. (return tickets, 6 f r. ) . Large English colony
here, July-September, with church. Grand views of
Jungfrau, Eiger, Breithorn, Monch, etc. Excursion
thence to the Scliingelhorn in 4-6 hrs. (guide neces-
sary; return, 3 hrs.).
From Lauterbrunnen bridle-path over the Wen-
gernalp ; by the Hotel de la Jungfrau, whence is the
finest view of the Jungfrau, 13,671 ft, high; ovei
the Little Scheidegg {Hotel Bellevue), 6,788 ft.
high, with magnificent views; and down to Grindei-
wald (entire journey, 6-7 hrs.); or one can go (less
desirable) by rly.
Meiringen to Grindelwald, 18 M. (7^ hrs. walk,
or horseback ride), by the grand Reiclienhach Fall ;
the Baths of Rosenlaui (hotel), near the Rosenlaui
Glacier; over the Great Scheidegg pass, 6,434 ft.
high; and down by the Upper Grindelwald Glacier.
Grand views of Wetterhorn, Faulhorn, etc., and
from the low Grindelalp. Grindelwald to Lauter-
brunnen or Interlaken.
The Lake of Thun, reached by rly. from Inter-
laken (Interla,ken to Thun, 4-5 times daily, in
li hr.; 4 fr. 10 c), 12 X 3i M. in area, and 1,837
ft. high, has many villas and hamlets on its banks,
back of which rise vast mts. As the steamer leaves
SPIEZ-BERNE 287
Darlingen, fine retrospect of the Monch, Eiger, and
Schreekhorn.
The Gemmi. — From S-piez(Spieze7'Jiof,lsikehai.ths;
Schonegg), road into the Frutigtlial (2-^ hrs. ; also from
Than) and to Kandersteg ( Victoria), liy. to Frutigen.
1-horse carriage, Spiez to Kandersteg, 18 fr. 2-horse
carriage, 18 and 35 f r. From Kandersteg a bridle path
leads over the Gemmi pass (7,553 ft. high), amid mag-
nificent scenery, and down to the Baths of Leuk
(23^ M ; guide, 7 fr. ; horse, 20 fr. ; horse to top of
pass, 15 f r.) The steamer touches at Spiez, Oherhofen,
etc., and backs down the Aare to ScherzUgen close to
Thun {Hotel de Tliun; Bellevue; Kreuz; Krone)^ a
prettily situated village, with quaint street-architec-
ture; a castle built in 1182; the Federal Military
School; and numerous fashionable summer hotels,
Uly. to Berne, 1 hr. (3fr. 35c., 2fr. 35c., Ifr. 70c.)
Berne, Freiburg, Lausanne, Geneva.
Berne (^B enter hof Midi Bellevue, both with fine views
of the Bernese Alps ; SchtoeierzJiof ; De France ; Bar;
Starch; Du Jura; Bfisterri), the capital of Switzerland
(68,000 inhab.), on a sandstone peninsula high over
t^e Aare, has pleasant aucaded streets and mediaeval
houses and fountains, and is a favorable place to rest
after journeying in the Alps. See fine Gothic Cathedral
(1598), with quaint carvings and famous organ ; Cathe'
dral-Terrace, viewing the entire Bernese range, Wetter-
horn, Finster-Aarhorn, Monch, Eiger, Jungfrau, etc.,
and the beautiful roseate sunset effect of the Alpen-
Glow; statues of Rudolpli von Eiiach and Berthold
von Zabringen; Museum (open daily, -J fr.) of natural
history and antiquities; JJniversity, 400 students, and
rich library ; liathhaus, bailt 1406 . Bear-Pit, witii
S88 FEEIBUKG.— LAUSANNE.
bears, maintained at the cost of the mimicipaUty \
Arsenal, and military curiosities ; Clock- Ihwer^
built in 1191, with quaint automata ; Co^m-HaU,
©ver great wine cellars; Og7'e Fountain, etc. The Fed«
®ral Buildings (open 9.30-11.30, 2-4, free) are two
noble Florentine edifices (1857 and 1892). The two
houses of the national legislature meet here. From
roof of older building there is a famous view of the
Alps and city. There are beautiful views also from
the SchcinzU and the Enge, near Berne. Visit His-
torical Museum [^ fr.), opened 1894, and the Kunst
Museum, mostly modern paintings. From Berne by
ry. in-li hr. (fares 3ifr., 2ifr., Ifr. 85c.) to
E'reiburg {Hotel du Faucoji; Suisse; Tete Noire) ^
founded (like Berne) by Berthold von Zaliringen in
1175, and standing on cliffs over the river Sarine, a
nobly picturesque situation. See the Gothic Church
(built 1288), in which is a renowned organ of 7,800
pipes, said to have the richest tone in the world (con.
cert at dusk, summer evenings, 1 fr.) ; the 16tli-century
Rathhaus, with its venerable lime-tree and stairway to
the lower town ; and the Suspension Bridge, bOO ft. long
and 168 ft. above the river.
The descent hence to Lausanne (42 M.) is one of
the most beautiful routes in Europe. Take seat on 1,
side, to see the Lake of Geneva and its picturesque
■shores. Exquisite view after emerging from the tunnel
'beyond Chexbres (the stat. for Vevay). '
Iiausanne {Riche Mont ; Beau Sejo^ir; Victoria;
Beau Site; Du U-rand Pont ; Gibbon, where Gibbon
wrote part of his history), with its lovely views over
tlie lake, has become a favorite summer-resort and
place of residence (47,000 inhab.). See Gothic Ca-
thedral (Protestant), built 1235-75, where Calvin and
others held a famous debate, in 1536, resulting in Prot-
estantizing Vaud. It is reached by 164 steps from
GENEVA. — FERNEY. 289
the market-place ; and the plain symmetrical interior
is 300 feet long. The old Episcopal Castle (now
Cantonal Council-Hall) commands a broad prospect.
See the two museums. From the Signal, half an
hour walk out, the best view is gained.
Continue on this route, by the lovely villages of
Morges, Nyon, and Coppet, to
Geneva {Grand Motel de la Paix ; desBergues}
de Russie; Richemond; de V Univers; Beau Rivage;
d' Angleterre ; Bellevue; National; Metropole ; de
fEcu; du Pare; du Lac; de la Poste; de Paris), a
city of 90,0UO inhab.. in a pretty situation at the foot
of" the Lake of Geneva, and divided into two
parts by the swift and rushing blue Rhone.
The favorite promenade, the 3Iont-Blanc Bridge^
crosses between the lake and Rousseau's Island^
on which is a statue of Rousseau. Broad quays,
lined with handsome buildings and hotels,
face the river and lake. Beautiful views of
Mont Blanc fiom the Quai du Mont - Blanc
and the pier beyond. The Cathedral (Protestant),
"the St. Peter's of the J^orth,"_is a plain 18th-
century building ( 50 c. ) , containing several old
monuments. Here Calvin preached. His house is
close by ; and his grave is in Plain-Palais cemetery.
Rousseau's birthplace was N"o. 40 Grand Rue. See
Ilusee Fol, antiquities; JIusee Rath (daily, 11-3),
with many paintings and casts ; Florentine Motel de
Ville, with inclined planes instead of stairs; Na-
tional Monument, bronze group by the lake; the
University (1868-72), with large library and MSS.,
and famous natural history collections; Musee
Ariana (I fr., free Thurs. and Sun.); and the vast
monument to Duke Charles II. of Brunswick, on
the Place des Alpes.
Excursions. — To Ferny, 44- M. N.W. (hourly elec-
iric tram over a route rich in viev/s), where Voltaire
290 LAKE OF GENEVA. — COPPET.
founded a town, built factories, a chateau, and a cli.
(inscribed Deo erexit Voltaire) ; to the imposing new
Hothscliild villa, at Pregny ; to the Saleve, 4 M. S. E.,
a limestone mt., 4,278 ft. high, giving a panoramic view
of the Mont-Blanc chain, the Jaras, and the Lake of
Geneva ; to Les Voirons, another far- viewing mt. ; to
the villas where dwelt Voltaire, Byron, Lola Montez.
and the Empress Josephine ; to the French stronghold
of Fort de VEcluse ; and to the Ferte du Rhone, where,
at low water, the river vanishes in a deep caiion.
The Lake of Geneva, the Lacus Lemanus of the
Komans, and Lac Leman of the Erench, is tlie largest
Swiss lake, being about 50 X 9 M. (225 sq. M.) in
area, and 1,230 ft. above the sea. It is in the form of
a half-moon. The water is deep blue, and contains but
few fish. It never freezes over, and has mysterious
rises and falls, strong currents, and water-spouts.
Voltaire and Rousseau, Byron and Goethe, have praised
its magnificent scenery. Scores of villages line the
shores, but have little commerce on the water. Capital
steamboats "ply here.
The S. coast boat runs in 4|-5 hrs. (6 fr., 3 fr.) by
Thonon, capital of Chablais ; and Evian {Hotel de
France ; Foian ; Des Baint]), a beautiful and fashion-
able French summer-resort, with fine views of Lausanne ;
to Bouveret, at the end of the lake (rly. to Martigny).
The better route is along the N. shore, 4|- hrs.
(7i fr., 3 fr.) from Geneva by Versoix, once a French
town; Coppet {Du Lac; Du Port), whose castle was
long time the home and is now the burial-place of
Necker, the famous finance-minister, and his daughter,
Madame de Stael ; Nyon (Du Lac; Du Jura; Ange), a
lovely village, with massive 12th century castle, and
a splendid view of Mont Blanc; Rolle, birthplace of
La Harpe, to whom an obelisk has been raised on an
MORGES. — VEVAY. — NEUCHITEL. 291
adjacent island; Merges, with a castle once occupied
by Bertha, Queen of Burgundy; Ouchy {Hotel Beau
Bivage; D'Angleterre; BuCJiateau), whence rl.in 6 m,
(50c., 25c.) to Lausanne; Corsier, close to the impos-
ing and far-viewing Grand Hotel cle Vevay, in gardens
of magnolias and rose-trees ; Vevay {Grand Hotel de
Vevay ; DuPont; BuLac), a sheltered nook with semi-
tropical climate, much visited by invalids and summer
loiterers, and celebrated in Rousseau's Nouvelle Helo'ise;
Clarens, with many villas and pe?isions, and natural
beauties extolled by Byron and Rousseau ; and Mon-
treux {Lorius; Beau-Lieu; Suisse), a shelter for con-
sumptives ; to Viileneuve, at the end of the lake (ry. to
Martigiiy, etc.). Pleasant walk thence to the famous
Castle of Chillon (2 M. ; entrance, 50 c), whose
dungeons and their illustrious prisoner have been im-
mortalized by Byron. See Rocher de Naye, a beau-
tiful mountain place above Territet, between Chillon
and Montreux, at the E. end ol the Lake of G-eneva.
Neuchatel (BeUevue; BuLac; Soletl; Vaisseau), 2
hrs. by rly. from Lausanne, stands on an amphitheatrical
slope of tiie Jura, sloping down to the lake, and is
famous for watches. Wealthy citizens have endowed
it nobly. See splendid Gymnasium and Academy,
museums, Library (70,000 vols.), new College, Picture-
Gallery (^ fr.) of fine modern Swiss paintings, ancient
Castle, and the 3 great hospitals. Agassiz was once a
professor here. The Lake of Neuchatel, 24 X 5 M. in
area, lies at the foot of the Juras, with level shores and
deep waters. At its S. end is Yverdon {Hotel de
Londres ; Baon; Faticon), where Pestalozzi conducted
his school (1805-25). Steamboats run from Neuchatel
to Estavayer, and into the gloomy Lake of Morat,
famous in Roman and Burgundian history. To the N.,
1 hr. by rly. from Berne, is Bienne, a lovely Bernese
town of 8,000 inhab., neat Cliasseral mt. The LaH
293 AIGLE. — THE COL DE BALME.
of Bienne (7 M. long) contains the Peterinsel, where
Rousseau took refuge when driven from Geneva (in
1765).
Chamounix and flont Blanc.
From Geneva by str. to Villeneuve, rly. thence to
Martigny, and across to Chamounix. One can now go
from Geneva to Chamounix entirely by rail — steam
to Fayet St. Gervais, thence by electric tram. The
journey takes only a few hours. France is entered
at Annemasse. Dinner at Sallanches.
Fare by boat and rly., Geneva to Martigny, 13 fr.
90 c, 9 fr. 60 c, 6 fr. 90 c. Ascending the Rhone Valley
from Villeneuve, the rly. passes Aigle (Grand Hotel
des Bains ; Beau Site), a pleasant summer-resort; and
Bex (Grand Hotel des Salines ; Bains)^ whence route
to Sion, across the Col de Cheville. Beautiful views
of the Dent du Midi, while nearing St. Maurice
(Hotel du Simplon; des Alpes). This is a very old town
with a 4tli century abbey, enshrining rare curiosities; a
stalactite grotto; and picturesque fortifications. Be-
yond Evionnaz Stat, see the Pissevache fall (200 ft.)
on the r. This is best visited from Vernayaz (Hotel
des Oorges; Des Alpes), which is also very near the cele-
brated Gorge du Trient. Martigny (H. Glerc; De la
Gare; National; Mt. Blanc; St. Bernard) is starting
|)oint of the routes over the Simplon (to Lake Maggiore)
and the Great St. Bernard (to Aosta), and over the
passes to Chamounix. You can visit Chamounix ;
ascend to the top of the St. Bernard ; return to Mar-
tigny ; and go thence over the Simplon.
The Col de Balme. — Martigny to Chamounix,
9-10 hrs. ; mule and attendant, 24 fr. and gratuity
<2 mules, 36 fr.). Carriage-road as far as Trient;
where lunch is taken. Grand view of the Mont-Blanc
CHAMOUNIX. — MONT BLANC. 293
group. Path in 2 hrs. to Col de Balms {Hotel
Suisse), 7,231 ft. high, the boundary between Swiss
Valais and French Savoy, with amazing prospect of
mts. Descend the Arve valley thence to Tour and
Argentiere {Bellevue) ; whence road (1-horse carriage,
5 f r. , and 1 f r. to driver) to
Chamounix(/m^eVmZ; Cacliat et du Mont Blanc;
d^Anghterre; Couttet et du Pare; Royal et de Saus-
sure; Savoy) , in Arve valley, 3,445 ft. high, at foot of
Mt. Blanc, has 15-20,000 visitors yearly, and is one
of the chief centres for Alpine tourists. Rooms should
be secured in advance. The whole valley is worthy of
study, and has scores of points of interest. Tariffs for
guides and mules (strictly observed) may be obtained
at chief guide's office. In a day you may ascend the
Montanvert (easy bridle-path, 2^ hrs.), where Tyn-
dall studied glacier movement ; cross the wonderful
Mer de Glace to the rocky cliffs of the Chapeau (path
ia the ice, l^hrs.), where there is an inn; descend to
hes Praz ; chmb thence to La Flegere (path in 2| hrs. ;
inn on summit, 6,260 ft. high), whence magnificent
view of the vast snowy Mont Blanc, Aiguille Vert,
Mer de Glace, etc. ; and return to Chamounix. On
the descent to Les Praz, you may visit the source of
the Arveiron. The Jardin is among the rocks on the
Glacier de Talefre, where Alpine flowers bloom in
August. The Brevent, one of the Aiguilles Rouges,
8,284 ft. high, commanding the best view of Mont
Blanc, mav be climbed by path in 4 hrs.
Mont Blanc, the highest of the Alps (15,781 ft.),
the boundary between France and Italy, was first
ascended in 1786. Many parties now ascend yearly
(3-4 persons, 100 fr. each, for guides, etc.). Many
valuable lives have been lost here, but in fine weather
and with duo caution there is little danger. First day's
294 ST. BERNARD PASS.
climb to stone Imts on Grands Mulets (10,007 f c.) ;
second, to summit and back ; third, from Grands Mulets
to Chamounix.
, The Tete-Noire affords a good route from Chamou-
nix to Martigny (9-10 hrs.) One can now go by
electric tram to Argentiere; across the Col des
Montets ; near the Foyaz and Barberine Cascades ;
through Valor chie village and Le Chatelard ; through
the rockj Tete-Noire pass ; and down through Trient to
Martigny.
The St. Bernard and Simplon Passes. —
Zermatt.
Martigny to the Hospice, ll^^hrs., a very interesting
journey. Start at morn (2-horse carriage, 45 fr. and
gratuity) ; or pass night at Orsieres, ascend to Hospice
to breakfast, and return to Martigny afternoon. Daily
diligence to Bourg St. Pierre. The road ascends the
Dranse valley to Orsieres {Hotel des Alpes) ; climbs
steeply 5 M. to Liddes {Angleterre ; Union'), whence
mule and guide to Hospice, 8-9 fr. ; by Bourg St.
Pierre {Au Dejeuner de Napoleon') and Cantine de Proz,
the end of the road. 7 M. distant, through the Defile
de Marengo, at the top of the pass, is St. Bernard
Hospice, 8,120 ft. above the sea, occupied since 962
by French Augustinian monks, who give free hospi-
tality to all travellers. 20,000 peasants are fed here
every year ; and in summer many tourists come. No
charge is made for food, etc., but well-to-do travellers
put money in the poor-box of the ch. The convent,
very rich in the Middle Ages, is now poor. Its pro-
visions are brought from Italy. See Napoleon's monu-
ment to Dessaix, in the chapel ; the great library ; the
Mor<yue' and the noble dogs. The pass has been
ZERMATT. — SIMPLON PASS. 295
crossed by vast armies of Romans, Lombards, Franks,
and Germans ; and in 1799 heavy iigliting occurred
liere between the Austrians and Napoleon's troops.
It is 6 lirs. hence to Aosta, in Italy.
Zermatt ( Victoria; Mo7if-Cervin; 3Io7it-Ro8e) is
approached from Martigny by railway, passing
through "Vispach. The "traveller will lind this a
characteristic Alpine route, among gorges, cascades,
and rocky peaks, with vast mountains in advance.
The village is the highest in Europe (5,215 feet), con-
tinuously inhabited, and is in the very heart of the Alps,
in a glen invaded by 3 glaciers and overtopped by the
Matterhorn, Monte Rosa, and other vast peaks. Its
ch.-yard has graves of several famous men who lost
their lives on these rats. The Riffeiberg (with hotel) i"^
3 hrs. distant, by bridle-path ; and \.\ hr. beyond is thp
rocky crest of Gorner G-rat, 10,290 ft. high, with su
perb view of Monte Rosa's rocky pyramids (16,132 ft.),
on the S. E. ; the black Breithorn (13,685 ft.), on thr
S. ; the craggy Matterhorn (14,705 ft.), on the W. /
the Dent Blanche, Gabelhorn, Morning, the Mischabe),
and the Allaleinhorn, in the N. Gornergrat elec. ry.
now completed. From Zermatt visit the Gorner
Glacier (12 M. long), which is larger than tlie Mer de
Glace ; tlie Findelen Glacier ; and to the Cima di Jazi
(12,526 ft.), by the Riffeiberg. The 8t. Theodule Pass
leads to Aosta. Monte Rosa (15,217 ft.) offers a
safe, but fatiguing climb (up and back, 12-14 hrs.).
The fatal Matterhorn is ascended by several parties
yearly (a severe 2-days' trip).
The Simplon. — Rly. Marti2:ny to Briear in 24- hrs,
(8fr. 20, 5fr. 80, 4fr. 10), by Saxon-les-Bains {Grand
Motel des Bains; de la Pierre-d-Yoir), with iodated
raters, good for skin diseases; beautiful Sion(^. du
Hidi; Poste), with old castles, Gothic cathedral, 2 fine
296 SIMPLON PASS.
old chs., and 6,000 inhab. ; mediseval Bieiie {Be llevue),
with the . chateaux of the Valais nobles ; Leuk, a few
miles from the Baths of Leuk (Hotel des Alpes ;
Bellevue ; I)e France'), and at the foot of the Gem mi
Pass ; and Visp (rouve to Zennatt) . Prom the end of
the rly., at Brieg (Hotel d' Angleterre') , diligences cross
the Simplon Pass in 9-10 hrs. (39 M. ; fares, 16 fr.
55 c. ; coupe, 19 fr. 65 c), to Domo d' Ossola. Napoleon
built this great road, in 1801-6, at a cost of $3,600,000,
for a military route into Italy. There are numerous
houses of refuge where the road nears the glaciers.
The crest of the pass is 6,594 ft. high, in an open val-
ley among glaciers. Beyond, near Monte Leone, is
the Hospice, whose monks are hospitable to all
comers. Magnificent mt.-scenery on upper reaches of
pass. The road descends 5| M. to Simplon (Paste'),
and through the Gondo Ravine. \ M. beyond the
hamlet of Gondo it enters Italy, and passes down, b^
several villages, through wild and picturesque gorges,
by the Crevola Gallery, and over the lofty Doveri&
Bridge, to Tiomo A' Ossola., (See page 398.) Now,
however, the opening of the Simplon tunnel has
made possible an all rail route from France to Italy,
reducing the length of the jourjiey by several hours,
and at the same time depriving it of much of its pic-
turesqueness. The tunnel extends from Brieg to
Iselle, a distance of a little over 13 miles.
ROUTES INTO ITALY. 297
ITALY.
npHE money of Italy is reckoned in lire and cen-
tesimi, which correspond to francs and cen-
times. The paper money consists of notes of 5, 10
and 25 lire. Beware of counterfeits ; also of talking
large bank notes in one city which may not be good
111 another. See Chapter on Travel, for general ob-
servations on Italy. Many complaints have been
made of thefts from baggage on the Italian railways.
It is well, therefore, not to carry valuable jewelry, or
money, in trunks.
Routes into Italy.
1. Paris to Turin, hy Mt. Cenis, 496f M. ; 16
(express) to 27 hrs. ; fares, 91 fr. 10 c, 62 fr. 55 c,
40 fr. 15 c. Route leads through Fontainebleau, Ton-
nerre, Montbard(BufFon's home), Dijon, Macon, Culoz,
Chambery, and Modane (frontier stat. ; change cars).
The Mt.-Ceni3 Tunnel, 8 M. long, was built 1861-
71, at a cost of l|15,000,000. Trains for Italy run
through it in 45 miii. ; trains for Eraiice, in 25 min.
2. Paris to Genoa, hij Marseilles and Nice,^^^\
M. ; fares, 155 fr. 90 c.', 105 fr. 35 c, 84 fr. 30 c. Rly.
from Genoa via Alessandria, to Turin ; or from Savona^
W. of Genoa, to Turin (5^ hrs.).
3. Geneva to Milan, by the Simplon, see p. 295.
4. Lucerne to Milan, by the St. Gothard (see p. 280),
through Eliielen, Airolo, and Belliuzoua, and tlience
rly. by Como. Or rly. through from Lucerne to Milaa
(fare, 36 fr. 70 c).
298 LAKE MAGGIORB.
5. Coire to Milan, by the Spliigen, to Chiavenna and
Colico, wlience steamer to Como, and rly. to Milan.
Or by Bernardino Pass, Coire to Bellinzona, whence
rly. Or by Julier and Bernina Passes, Coire to Sama-
den, Tirano, and Colico, whence steamer to Como.^
and rly. to Milan,
6. Basle to Milan, by the Stelvio. Uly. to Con-
stance and Bludenz ; diligence to Laiideck, Nanders,
Bormio, and Colico; steamer and rly. to Milan.
7. Munich to Verona, by Brenner Pass, see p. 264.
8. Vienna to Venice, by tlie Semniering, all rly., by
Bruch and Villach, through magnificent scenery. Leave
Vienna at 7 a.m. ; reach Venice, 11 p.m. Or rly. from
Vienna to Trieste, and steamer thence to Venice.
The Tour of the Italian Lakes.
Domo d' Ossola (^Grand H6tel.de la Ville i B'Es.
pagne) is a pretty southern village, with a charming
view from the Calvary, -J hr. distant. Eailway to
Novara (55 M.; 3^ hrs.; 10 1. 30 c, 7 1. 15 c, 4 1. 60 c.)
passing the ruined castle of Vogogna ; Ornaoasso, with
a castle of the Visconti, and the quarries whence Milan
Cathedral was hewn ; Gramllona ; through the valley
of the Strona to Omegna at the N. end of the Lake of
Orta. Thence along the shore of the lake, beautifnl
views, to Oozzano ; through the valley of the Agogna
to Novara, whence Milan can be reached by rly. in 1^
hr. Diligence from Gravellona to Pallanza, on Lake
Maggiore (6 M.; 1 hr.; 1 1., outside, 1| 1.) ; to Stresa
m M. ; 1 hr. ; 1 1. 20 c. ; 11. 80c.). It is wise to make
a tour of the lakes (1-2 days) before going to Milan.
Lake Maggiore, 37x4^ M. in area, and of vast
depth, is very beautiful, with the rich plains and vine-
yards on the S., and the great mts. on the N. There
are marble and granite quarries on its shores, and ri^l
fiaaiij
Leaie
ARONA.—BOKKOME AN ISLANDS. 299
(nines. Arona {Alhergo Reale e Posta), on the S., is
an old town, with rare paintings in its ch. On the
hill is a copper and bronze statue, 70 ft. high, of St.
Charles Borromeo (1697), the famous Cardinal-Arch-
bishop of Milan, who died in 1584. The head will hold
3 persons (ladders ascend to it, inside). Steamer f ronj
Arona to Locarno (4 1. 80 c, 2 1. 65 c). It calls aj
Stresa {Hotel ties lies Borromees ; M'ilan\ with ita
fine monastery and cypress-trees; and Baveno {Grand
Jlotel BeUevue; Beau Rivage; Simplon). The shores
are Ihied with villas ; and in the N. glimmer the Alps,
Monte Rosa, St. Gothard, etc. The beautiful Borro-
mean Islands are touched at (see Jean Paul Ricbter's
description). Isola Bella {Hotel chi Dcmphin) has the
great palace of the Borromeo family (open daily; 11.),
rising over 10 terraces of gardens, rich in flowers and
fountains, Isola M'adre has an empty palace, above
7 terraces, laden with orange and lemon trees, cedars,
and cypresses. Boat with 2 men, from Baveno, 5 1.
first hr., 1 1. others. Arona to Isola Bella, by steamer,
1^ 1., 90 c. ; fare thence, by Fariolo, Intra, and Laveno,
II. 85 c., 11. 15 c., to Luino. Opposite is CannerOj
among the vineyards, with ancient brigands' castles off-
shore. Lovely villages appear on either coast. The
steamer keeps on N. to Locarno {Grand Hotel
Locarno; Reher; dio Pare), in the Swiss Canton of
Ticino, to which the upper part of the lake belongs.
See ch., with good pictures; Cantonal buildings ; and
Ch. of Madonna del Sasso, on the hill, visited by
myriads of pilgrims. Rly. hence to Belhuzona, whence
diligence over the Spliigen. Return by boat (21.
10 c, 11 20 c.) to
Luino {Hotel du Simplon ; Pasta ; Vittona), a fa=
vorite summer-resort, with the Crivelli Palace and
Garibaldi's statue. Steam tramway (1 h.; 2 1. 600., 1 1.
300 LAKE LUGANO - LAKE COMO
45c.) to Ponte Tresa, thence ptearaboat (50 min., 41.
50c., 2 1. 70c.) to Lua:ano {Hotel da Pare; Grand;
Splendide; Bellevue; Sletropole; St. Gottharcl; Berna;
Bristol; Svizzera)^ a Swiss cantonal capital, in-
habited by Italians, amid exquisite scenery and ricft
villas. See S. Lorenzo Ch.; St a. Maria, with Luini's
frescos ; Wm. Tell's statue ; and old convents and
palaces. Excursion to Mt. B. Salvadore (2,983 ft.
high) in 3 hrs. (guide and horse, 7 !.)• View of Alps.
Lake Lugano is a series of deep, sinuous gulfs
among the nits., 14 M. long and 3 M. wide, Swiss on
one side, Italian on the other, in a climate of perpetual
spring, and amid very lovely scenery. The adjacent
peaks overlook the Lombard plain, down to Milan.
Steamer from Lugano (2|1., 11.), by Osteno, near a
remarkable grotto, to Porlezza, a quaint village in an
amphitlieatre of hills; or S., to Capolago, vs^bence rail-
way to Como, Steam tramway (about 9 M. ; 1 hr. ; 2 1.
65 c, 1 1. 45c.) from Porlezza,' by Piano and Croce,
and through a rich country, with Lake Como below
and the Alps in sight from the Spliigen to the Ortler
Spitz, to Menaggio {Menaggio, Vittoria, Corona),
on Lake Como. Tliis is a good point for excursions •
and on the hill is the Filla Vigoni, with fine sculptures.
Lake Como, the Lacus Larius of the Romans, is
shaped like the letter Y, and is 33 M. long, 2-3 M.
wide, and 1,800 ft. deep. It is one of the lovehest lakes
in the world, and its natural charms of mts., vineyards,
and forests are heightened by the white Italian hamlets
and the splendid villas of Milanese families. Cross to
"BeWsL^^io {Grande Bretagne ; Bellaggio ; Genazzini ;
Villa Serbelloni ; Florence; Suisse'), a favorite Anglo-
American resort The Villa Melzi (1 1.) has splendid
sculptures (by Canova) and frescos, and a famous
garden From Villa Serbelloni, best view on the
COMO. — LAKE or GAEDA. 301
lake. Across the lake is Cadennabbia {BelUdue ;
Belle He; Britannia), near the celebrated Villa Car-
lotta (fee 1 1.), rich in finest sculptures of Canova
and Thorwaldsen. Steamer from Bellagsrio to Golico,
whence rly. (17 M.; 31. 10 c. 2 1. 15 c, 1 1. 40 c.) to
Chiavenna, and diligence over the Splligen (12 hrs.;
g2 1., outside 26 1. 65 c.) to Coire (see p. 278). Eeturn
thence to Colico and take steamer (3|^-5 hrs. ; 4 1, 70 c. ,
2 1. 60 c.) through the lake, noting castles of Musso
and many beautiful hamlets, to Como {Hotel Vol'
ta ; Italia; Plinius), a place of 25,000 inhab.,
with statues of its emment natives, the elder and the
younger Pliny, and Yolta, the electrician. See marble
Lombard-Gothic Cathedral (1396), with fine paintings
(by Guide, Veronese, etc.) and sculptures, and vivid
coloring ; Ch. of Crocefisso, richly adorned ; basilica
of S. Abbondio, 1 M. out ; ancient Porta del Torre; and
handsome old Broletto, or town-hall. Steamers run
from Beilaggio down the picturesque Lake of Lecco, an
arm of Como, to Lecco, at the foot of the high Rese-
gone peaks (rly. to Milan).
Como to Milan, 30 M. ; If hrs. (5^ l, 3 1. 85 c, 21 1.).
The Lake of Orta, 9 X I2 M. in area, is charm-
ingly situated among the Piedmontese hills. Omnibus
(2|1.) from Arena to Orta {S. Giulio; Orta; Bel-
vedere), a marble-paved hamlet on a promontory, near
the Sacro Monte, a height dotted with chapels, and
looking up on Monte Rosa. — The Lake of Iseo is
15 X H M. in area, winding, in S shape, among groves
of mulberries and figs- and gardens of roses and camel-
lias. Railway from Brescia (15 M. ; 1 J hr. : 2 1. 75 c, 1 1.
90 c, 1 1. 25,c.) to Iseo {Hotel Leone), whence steamer
to beautiful Sarnico and Lovers.— l^he great Lake of
Garda, 37 X 10 M. in area, 1,000 ft. deep, with clear
blue waters, abounding in fish, and very picturesque
shores, is traversed by steamboats, running from Des-
enzano (the home of Catullus) or Peschiera (near the
302 MILAN.
battle-field of Solferino), on the Milan-Yerona rail*
way, to Riva {Hotel Lido), a beautiful village at
the N. end.
The North = Italian Cities
Milan (Hotel de la Yille; Cavour ; Milan ; Oran
Bretagna, all expensive; Victoria; JEuropa; Manin;
Roma; Venezia) is a beautiful and enterprising city
(490,000 inhab.), 9 M, around, in the centre of the
rich Lombard plain. It was founded 400 b. c. ; a
capital in the 3d-century; sacked by Attila in 452; a
Lombard city in 568 ; annexed by Charlemagne;
destroyed by Frederick Barbarossa in 1162; rebuilt
by the Lombard League ; governed by the Visconti
and Sforza families, 1312-1545; conquered by Francis
L, in 1515; annexed by Charles V. soon after, and
Spanish till 1714; capital of Italy, 1805-14; an Aus-
trian garrison, 1814-59 ; and since then Italian. Man-
zoni was born here ; also 5 popes ; and Virgil studied
here.
The magnificent Gothic Cathedral, second only to
St. Peter's and Seville Cathedrals in size, was built
1386-1500. It is cruciform, with double aisles and
transept-aisles, separated by 52 pillars, each 12 ft. in
diameter, with niches crowded with statues. Interior
477 ft. long, 183 ft. wide, and 155 ft. high. It con-
tains 6,000 statues, a pavement of marble mosaic, vast
granite monoliths, superb stained windows, many
tombs of magnates, St. Carlo Borromeo's wooden cru-
cifix and gorgeous tomb, and life-size silver statues of
saints (in the Treasury)o The wonderful marble roof
(entered from r. transept, 5 A. m, till dusk, 25 Co),
with ninety -eight Grothic turrets, hundreds of
pinnacles, and over two thousands life-size marble
statues ■ — some by Canova, — ■ should be carefully
studied (2-3 hrs.) Ascend (at early morn) to,, the
MILAN. 303
upper gallery of the tower (494 steps), which is 360
ft. high, and view the Lombard plain, Apennines,
snd Alps(Mt. Cenis, Blanc, St. Bernard, Kosa, Mat-
terhorn, Mischabel, Leone, St. Gothard, Spltlgen,
Ortler, Spitz, etc.). Watchman here, with tele«
scope.
Cross Cathedral Sq., and enter the Victor-Emmanu^
Gallery, the finest arcade in the world; built in 1865-7
.It a cost of $1,600,000 ; 960 ft. long, 48 wide, 94 high,
4turrounded by handsome shops; richly frescoed ; and
idorned with statues of Raphael, Galileo, Dante,
Cavour, and 20 other famous Italians. The octagon
under the dome (180 ft. higli) is brilliantly lighted at
iiight, when it forms a favorite promenade. On the
adjacent Piazza della Scala, see Leonardo da Vinci's
monument (1872), the massive Municipal Palace
(1555), and the great La Scala Theatre, with 8,600
sittings (1 1. to see building ; famous ballets here, ia
season). Near by is the Jesuit ch. of San Fedele
(1569). The Brera, once a Jesuit college (1675), is a
great palace built around a quadrangle adorned with
statues; and contains a library of 300,000 vols.;
a celebrated gallery (open daily, 9-4, 1 1. ; free
on Sunday) of 400 paintings and sculptures (get
catalogue) .
The Piazza de'Armi, N.W. of Milan, has the Arena
built by Napoleon I., and holding 30,000 spectators ;
the Castle of the Sforzas, built 1358 ; and the great
triumphal marble Arch, ending the Simplon route,
founded by Napoleon (1804) to record his victories,
and finished by Austria (1830), with reliefs showing
the victories over France. Grand statues on summit.
The Corso Vittorio Emanuele is the chief business
street, and contains S. Carlo Bovroineo (a copy of the
Homan Pantheon), and several palaces. See Piazza dei
Mercanti, with Exchange and 13th-century palace of
the Podesta; Piazza Beccaria, with statue of Becc&na;
304 LA CERTOSA.
and the Roman, Garibaldi, and Tosa Gates. S. Am'^
brogio, founded by St. Ambrose (4tli century), is a
Komanesque cli., rich in monuments of ancient Chris-
tianity, 8th-centiiry reliefs, 9th-century mosaics, Stili-
cho's sarcophagus, the brazen serpent of Moses. Here
Augustine embraced Christianity ; Ambrose closed the
gates against the Emperor Theodosius ; and the Lom-
bard and German sovereigns received the Iron Crown.
In the refectory (1 1.), near the rich old abbey-ch. of
S. Maria delle Grazie, are the remains of Leonardo da
Yinci's grand fresco of The Last Supper. See the 4th-
century octagonal /S*. Lorenzo, and its colonnade ; S. Maria
di S. Celso, with remarkable paintings, sculptures, and
atrium ; S. Maurizio, with Luini's frescos. The Am-
brosian Library (open 10-3, if r.), founded (1609) bys
Cardinal Borromeo, has 175.000 vols., 15,000 MSS.,
many literary curiosities and several hundred paint-
ings. The Civic Museum (i fr.) has large natural-
history collections. The Castello Sforzesco, restored
1893, contains the Municipal Art and Archasological
Museum (adm. Ifr., Thu. ifr., Sun. 20 c). See the
Ospedale Maggiore (1457), a vast hospital with 9
courts; Military Hospital; Manzoni's house; palaces
of Borromeo, Litta, Omoneni, Trivulzio and Ciani
families; Cemetery, with cremation-temple; Public
{gardens, -where Exhibition of 1881 was held; Archbish-
op's Palace, near Cathedral, with fine court (1565); and
Hoyal Palace, adjacent, with huge Napoleonic frescos.
La Certosa (1 hr. by rly.; 31. 20 c, 2 1. 25 c, 1 1.
60 c), in a fertile and populous plain, "was one of the
most sumptuous monasteries in the world, and be-
longed to the Carthusians. It was founded in 1396 by
the Visconti; and here Francis I. was a, prisoner in 1525.
The ch., with 14 columns, a high dome, mosaic floor,
monuments, and frescos, is crowded with precious
things. The rich Renaissance fapade (1473) is in
PAVIA.— ALESSANDRIA.-TURIN. 305
colored marbles, with delicate carvings. Grand clois-
ters, with slender marble pillars and monks' houses.
Pavia {Croce Bianca; Hotel Tre Re) is a little waj
S. (fares from Milan, 41. 10 c, 21. 85 c., 2 1. 10 c). See
unfinished Cathedral, facade and dome built 1898;
Promenade, along Ticino fliver; University, the old-
est in Europe; old Romanesque Cli. of St. Michele^
with Giottesque frescos, colossal statue of Ghislierij
towers on the walls; and Castle, built 1630.
Pavia to Ureiuoua and Brescia, 141. 5 c, 91. 85 c,
71. 5 c.; to Piacenza, 61. 85 c., 41. 80 c., 31. 45 c.
Erom La Certosa the fares are 71. 40 c., 51. 20 c., 31.
75 c, to Alessandria i^lily. Restaurant ; Europa^
Londra), a huge fortress (73,000 inhab.), whose ap-
proaches can l)e flooded in wartime. Citadel built,
1728, by Victor Amadeo II. Hence in 2i-3 hrs- (10 1.
20 c., 71. 30 c., 51. 15 c.) to
Turin (Be la Ville, de Turin, d' Europe, Fiorina,
Central, de France, Roma e Rocca Cavour), prosper-
ous city of 350,000 inh., on the plain of the Po, near
the Graian Alps. It was destroyed by Haiinibal
(218 B.C.) and Alaric ; was a Roman colony ; a bishopric
under Cliarlemague ; capital of Savoy and Sardinia, and
of Italy (1859-65). It is laid out with Pliiladelphiau
regularity, and surrounded by umbrageous promenades,
on site of old walls. Tlie Palazzo Madama is a huge
mediaeval pile, centrally situated ; and once the Senate-
house of Italy. Across the Piazza Castello is the
Moyal Palace, a ponderous old brick building (usually
open), richly furnished, and with fine statuary, library
(60,000 vols. ; open 9-4), and armory (daily, 11-3),
with Roman, French and Austrian standards,
Cellini's metal-work, weapons, armor, etc. The hand-
some and busy Via di Po, with arcades, runs thence
to the Po bridge. The Palace of the Duke of Genoa
306 TURIN.-NOVARA.
is connected with that of the King. The Royal Oar-
dens open 11-5 Sundays and holidays, (music at 1). In
the Palazzo delV Accademia are collections in natural
history, sculptures, Egyptian antiquities, a library of
40,000 vols., and a gallery (open daily ; get catalogue)
of 600 pictures, many of them of great interest. The
Cathedral (1498) contains the Cappella del SS. Sudario,
a high-domed round chapel of brown marble, where
the sovereigns of Savoy are buried. La Consolata ch.
contains a revered image of the Virgin. The palaces
and arcades of the Piazza dello Statute were erected by
an English company, and surround a memorial of the
Erejus Tunnel. There are' many fine statues and
groups in the squares, honoring Italian notables. The,
University, a vast Renaissance palace, has 1,500 stu-'
dents, and a library of 200,000 volumes. See Albertina
Academy of Pine Arts (open daily) ; Municipal Museum;
Mouse of Tasso ; house where Cavour died; Royal
^Theatre; Ch. of Gran Madre di Dio; Monumerits of
■Cavour, Victor Emanuel and Philihert; the great
Carignano Palace; the favorite Public Garden, with
•chateau of 11 Valentino; handsome granite bridge;
Arsenal; Citadel; Corpus Domini ch., richly dec-
orated; S. Rocco; S. Andrea; Waldensian Temple;
■Capuchin Monastery and the curious Mole AntonelU-
ana. The Cemetery, 1^ M. N. E., has tombs of Silvio
Pellico, Massimo d'Azeglio, Glioberti, etc. La Su-
perga, on a hill E. of Turin, viewing city and Alps
(Monte Rosa), is a splendid ch., built in 1717, with
the tombs of Sardinian kings. The Valleys of the \
Waldenses are 30-40 M. S. W. of Turin.
Prom Turin you may go to Milan (17 1., 11 1. 90 c,
8 1. 55 c.) by Novara {Sempione; Italia), a large
Piedmontese market-town, where Peter Lombard was
born in 1100. The 4th century Cathedral has
columns of an older pagan temple.
BERGAMO. — BRESCIA. 307
Turin to Yenice, 257 M. ; 10|- lirs., express; fares,
471. 10 c., 331. 5 c., 231. 65 c. Milan to Bergamo
(39 M.; 2 hrs.), 51. 90 c., 41. 15 c., 21. 95 c.; to
Brescia, 11|^1., 81. 5 c., 51. 75 c.; to Verona, 181.
30 c.; to Venice, 311. 80 c, 221. 80 c., 161. 30 c.
Take morning train. ITine scenery and interesting^'
cities. Bergamo (Italicc) is a prosperous fortified
provincial and episcopal capital (48,000 inliab.). Aris..
tocratic and governmental Old Town, on hill, with Cas-
tle above it ; commercial New Town below. About the
Piazza Garibaldi, Cathedral, splendid Colleoni Chapel,
Municipal Palace, and quaint old Gothic Broletto pal-
ace. See very interesting Ch. of Sla. Maria Maggiore
(1173), containing tomb of Donizetti; Accademia
Carrara, with over 200 ancient paintings ; vast build-
ings, with 600 shops, for annual Pair (Aug. 15-Sept.
15). Excursions to Fals Brembana and Seriana, and
Lake of Iseo.
Brescia (JL?5er^o d' Italia; Gambero; Brescia) makes
famous arms, silks, cloths (70,000 iuhab.); was a
Gaulish town ; a Roman colony ; Milan's rival in the
16th century; sacked by Gaston de Foix in 1512; a
Venetian garrison, 1517-1797 ; bombarded by Aus-
trians in 1849. Beautifully situated at foot of the
Alps, surrounded by walls and overlooked by a castle.
The Cathedral (built 1604-1825) is of marble, with
vast dome. Near by is La Botonda, the old cathedral
(9th century), round, with dome and crypt. See chs.
of S. Afra, S. Clemente, and S. Nazzaro e Celso, rich in
pictures ; Galleria Tosio (open 11-3), 13 rooms full of
notable ^omtin^s ', Biblioteca ^werm^aria (open 11-3),
i0,000 vols., and rare literary curiosities,- Wuseo
Patrio (11-3 daily), Roman relics, in a tempie built
j)y Vespasian, a.d. 72 ; 12th century Broletto and cam-
panile; handsome Palazzo Comunale (15083, riclily
308 SOLFERINO.-VERONA.
carved; Mediceval Museum in two old church
Lake of Garda, see page 801.
The rly. to Venice passes Desenzano, whence 4 1. by
carriage to Solferino, where a chapel contains bones
of 7,000 soldiers slain in the battle (1859) ; runs along
S. shore of Lake of Garda, with lovely views;
through the fortress of Peschiera ; to thriving
Verona {Colomba d'Oro ; Gran Hotel di Lon-
dra), on the edge of the Tyrol, on a rich plain
(78,000 inhab.). First a Gaulish town, 350 B.C.; then
a Roman fortress ; capital of the Gothic empire ; one
of Charlemagne's chief towns; a republic; capital of
the Scaligers ; Venetian appanage for 300 years ; Aus-
trian garrison (1797-1866) ; and Italian city. There
are 5 bridges over the rapid Adige. Verona is sur-
rounded with formidable bastioned walls and detached
castles, built by Austria and lately strengthened by
Italy. Give a day to its wonderful memorials of
Romans, Goths, Lombards, and Carloviugians ; chs. of
rare interest ; and venerable palaces. The Cathedral
is a stately 14tli-century Gothic ch., with cloisters on
red-marble columns. Huge pillars inside. Near by h
the old 12th-century Baxdistery ; also, Bishop's Falace,
with colossal statue in courtyard, and library. The
Piazza delle Erbe, or fruit-market, is a remarkably
picturesque square, once the forum of the Republic, sur-
rounded with frescoed palaces, and containing a tall
marble pillar where once stood the lion of Venice, the
quaint Trihuna (or judgment-seat), !;he Munici^io
Tower (330 ft. high), and fountain with statue of
Verona. The adjacent Piazza del Signon, with impos.
ing Municipio palace (1183), picturesque court; La
Loggia, or Palazzo del Consiglio (1500), with statues
of Catullus, Cornelius Nepos, Pliny, Vitruvius, Macer,
all natives of Verona ; and statue of Dante. Near the
I
VERONA. 309
Ch. of Sta. Maria Antica are the very curious and
splendid Gothic Tombs of the Scaliger family, who
ruled Verona 1262-1389. 6. Anastasia (1261) is an
interesting Gothic church, with noble interior. The
Arena, on one side the Piazza Vittorio Emanuele
(formerly Bra), is a well-preserved Roman Amphi-
theatre, built by Diocletian or Trajan, and covered
with earth and houses in the Middle Ages. The 73
arcades are leased to shop-keepers. It is oval, 1,584
feet around and 106 feet high, with 45 tiers, and can
accommodate 95,000 spectators. The Porta de Bor-
sari, a triumphal arch built by the Emperor Gallie-
nus (a.d. 265), is on the Corso Cavour. See also two
arches of Roman bridge ; an arch near old citadel;
and the Arch of the Lions.
S. Zenone, in N.-W. quarter, founded by Pepin
(who was buried there), is the finest mediaeval church
with rich marble facade ; very curious sculptures of
"Wheel of Fortune, etc. ; portal (1178) resting on red-
marble lions ; doors with brazen reliefs ; a grandiose
interior, with alternate pillars and columns; tomb
and statue of S. Zeno ; and grand 12th-century clois-
ters. Near by, through cloisters of S. Bernardino, is
Sammicheli's beautiful Capella dei Pellegrini. Sam-
micheli also built the handsome Stuppa Gate (end of
Corso), towards the Castle, now an arsenal, once the
palace of the Scaligers. The so-called Tomh of Juliet
is a red- marble sarcophagus, much visited by young
ladies. See S. Fermo 3Iaggiore, rich 14th-century
Gothic ch. with walnut ceilings. Palazzo Bevilacqua,
fagade by Saramicheli. Academia delle Belle Arte
(1 1.), in imposing Palazzo Pompei, with hundreds of
fine old Veronese paintings, Roman antiques, etc.
Griusti Garden (50 c. ) , with cypresses 500 years old,
and commanding views of the Alps and Apennines ;
Cemetery, surrounded by Doric colonnade; ini the
great Castello S. Pietro,
510 ROVEEEDO. — MANTUA. — CREMONA.
Excursion to Trent, very interesting, and thence
down to Vicenza, by Roveredo (9,000 iuhab.), where
Dante lived in exile. Verbua to Munich by the Bren-
ner, 63f l, 47 1. 55 c, 22 1. 15 c. (see p. 265).
From Verona, you can visit Mantua (fares, 4 1. 60 c,
3 1. 20 c, 21. 30 c.) and Modena (fares, 11 1. 85 c, 8 1.,
5f 1.), passing Villafranca, where peace was made be-
tween Trance and Austria in 1859. Mantua {Aquila
d'Oro; Senoner) is a dull old fortress (30,000
inhab.), among lakes and marshes. Here Virgil (born
3 M. S. E.) lived, and Mantegna and GiuHo Romano
were born. See S. Andrea (1472), a vast ch. with
many monuments and frescos; Museo Civico in the Pal-
azzo degli Studii ; spacious Cathedral; old Ducal Pal-
ace (1302), richly frescoed by Mantegna and Romano:
Accademia Virgiliana, with museum of sculpture (grand
view of Tyrolese Alps from square) ; and Palazzo del
Te, a huge palace outside the Forta Pmterla, erected
by Romano, and adorned with bis greatest frescos.
From Milan to Mantua direct, in 6 hrs. (fares,
18 1. 20 c., 12f 1., 9 1. 20 c), by Cremona {Capello ed
Italifi), on the Po (36,000 inhab.), successively Gaul-
ish, Roman, Gothic, Lombard, Austrian, and Italian,
and famous for its violins, and now a dull town of wide
streets and decaying palaces. See pictures in Public
and Royal Palaces (9-3 daily) ; German-Lombard
Cathedral, with rich fapade and interior crowded with
frescos ; Torrazzo (1261-84), a tower 397 ft. high,
with arcades to Cathedral; and nobles' palaces.
Piacenza {Italia ; Ban Marco) may be reached
bence by tramway ; or by rly. from Milan (7 1. 80 c,
51 1., 3 1. 90 c; rly. from Milan to Bologna, 241.
45 c., 17 1. 15 c, 12i 1.). This town (35,000 inhab.)
was founded by the Romans, b. c. 219. See 13th-
century Palazzo del Comune, with fine arca.de?.
VICENZA. — PADUA. 311
and equestrian statues of the Earnese princes ; 12th*
century Romanesque Cathedral, frescoed by Guercino
and Caracci; S. Francesco {127 S), and Romaguosi's
statue ; S. Sisto (1499-1511), for which Raphael
painted his noblest Madonna (now at Dresden) ; Palazzo
Faniese, built by Vigiiolaiu 1558 ; Citadel (1547) ; and
8. Antonino, quaint vestibule.
Rapid tourists will hasteii from Verona to Venice
direct, passing through- Vicenza (T^re (Trtro/a?^^;
Roma J Gran Farigi), a busy town of 44,000 inh., sur-
rounded with walls and moats, and richly adorned with
buildings designed by the great Palladio, a native of
Vicenza (1518-80), among which are Gasa del Diavolo ;
Palazzo Prefettlzio, Teatro Olimpico (^1.), etc. Also
Basilica, or Palazzo del Consiglio, grand open arcades
around town-hall; Barbarano, Tiene, and Valmarano
palaces; and Palazzo Chieregati, in which is Civio
Museum (9-5 daily), with many paintings, etc. See
Palazzo della Ragione, very rich Gothic ; Greal Tower
(1446) ; palaces around Piazza de' Signori ; quaint old
bridge, rivalling the Rialto ; duU Gothic Calhedral ; S.
Corona, with priceless pictures ; S. Lorenzo ; BertO'
liana Library, with rare MSS. ; and Roman Berga
Theatre. On Mt. Berici, pilgrimage-ch. of Madonna
del Monte (1428), approached by arcade of 180 pillars
(2,145 ft. loag). \\ M. out is Villa Rotonda, Palladio's
work, surrounded by Ionic colonnades.
Padua {Stella d'Oro; Groce d'Oro), a university town
between Vicenza and Venice, has 80,000 inhab., and
stands on a rich plain, embowered in gardens. From
a distance its domes and towers and old bastioned walls
and bastions present a noble appearance ; but within it
appears almost deserted. Its foundation is attributed
to Antenor, after the siege of Troy ; and in th>3 Augus-
tan age it was the chief eitj of North Italy. Alaric
312 PADUA.
and Attila both sacked it ; and it was Venetian, 1402-
1797. In 14tli century, Padua had more artists than
any city (Giotto, etc.). • The Universitys
founded in 1238, was long the best in Europe, with
18-20,000 students, Galileo was a professor ; Dante,
Petrarch, and Tasso were students. It is still famous,
and occupies a handsome old palace, with spacious
arcades. On a promenade is a long line of statues
(2 by Canova) of illustrious graduates, Savonarola,
Giotto, etc. xl Santo, the vast Ch. of S. Antonio
(1296-1475), 300 ft. long and 123 ft. high, is crowded
with paintings, bronzes (by Donatello), and monuments
(Bembo, Contarini), and has large cloisters. Taine calls
it an Italian-Gothic building, decorated with Byzantine
cupolas, in which round domes, noble Greek towers,
little columns surmounted by ogival arcades, a fapade
borrowed from Boman basilicas, and notions copied
from Venetian palaces mingle the ideas of several centu-
ries and countries. In front, see Donatello's equestrian
bronze statue of Gattamelata, a Venetian general ; and
on the S., Scuola del Santo, a hall with famous frescos
by Titian. 8. Giustina (1549), a stately ch., often de-
stroyed and rebuilt, with marble floor and rich choir-
stalls. Near by, see Botanic Garden (oldest in Europe) ;
and huge old monastery (now a hospital.) The Arena
Chapel (1303) is filled with very precious frescos by
Giotto (visit at morning, 50 c). Near by, see Eremitani
Ch. (1276-1306), with monuments, and a chapel frescoed
by Mantegna; and Scuola del Carmine, a baptistery with
Titian's frescos. See Cathedral baptistery (1260),
frescoed in 1380 ; 11th-century Palazzo delta liagione,
with immense hall, largest known single roof, and 400
frescos ; Palazzo del Podesta and campanile ; and Civic
Musew^i, many paintings Quiet old Padua may well
be the object of a day's excursion from Venice.
TENICE. 313
Arrive in Venice at night, if possible. The last stat.
is Mestre, whence the rly. crosses the Lagoon on a
vast viaduct. 3 M. long, on 232 arches (built 1841-45 ;
cost $1,000,000). The passage by night seems a flight
between sea and sky.
Venice.
Hotels. — Grand Hotel Royal Danieli, in Palazzo
Dandolo; Europa, in Palazzo Giustiniani; Britannia,'
Vittoria; Orand; Beaurivage; Italia; 3Ionaco;Luna;
Bellemie; Pension Suisse; d Angleterre; Accademia;
Vapore. Restaurants. — Quadri ; Bauer ; San
Marco. Cafes, — Floriaii; Svizzero; SpeccM; Quadri;
Giardino Beale, — all on or near Piazza of St. Mark.
Gondolas (one rower) for 1-6 persons, 1 1. per trip, or
per hr. (two rowers, double price) ; from steamers to
Piazzetta, 40 c. Baggage 15 c. each piece. Hotels
To call a gondola, cry out Poppe. Numerous small
steamboats (vaporetti) ply regularly on the canals,
answering to the street-cars in other cities ; fare, 5 c.
and 10 c.
Venice is built on 117 islands in the Lagoon, with
150 canals and 378 stone bridges, and has 157,000
inhab., in maritime pursuits (commerce is increasing),
and manufactures of books, mirrors, jewelry, brocades,
laces, and glass (one factory is now 1,200 years old).
It is 7M. around,dividedby the Grand Canal, shaped
like an S, 2 M. long and 150-180 ft. wide. The La-
goon is a shallow lake, 25x9 M. in area, connected
with the i.driatic by 4 deep channels through long and
narrow sandbanks, faced with vast masonry bul-
warks. The main channels (23 ft. deep) admit the
largest vessels. The tide rises and falls about Venice.
A small canal is called rio ; a street, calle or lista;
a square, campo; small square, campiello; blind alley.
314 THE PIAZZA DI SAN MAKCO.
corte ; quay, fondamento, or rwa. Au adequate view
of Venice requires 8-10 days ; the cliief siglits may be
visited in 4 days. Eor sight-seeing, the city may be
cut into 5 parts, — the region E. and S. of Grand
Canal ; the Grand Canal ; region N. and W. ; S. Gior-
gio and Giudecca ; remoter islands.
The Piazza di San Marco is a square, 576 ft.
long and 185-270 ft. wide, paved with gray trachyte
and white Istrian marble, surrounded by time-stained
marble palaces and St. Mark's Ch., and the picturesque
centre of Yenetian life, especially at evening, when the
bands play, and the cafes are crowded by thousands.
Plocks of fat pigeons fed here by the city at 2 p.m.
daily for 700 years. The palaces enclosing 3 sides are
the Frocuratie Vecchie (N. side), built 15th century
for home of the Procurators (who ranked next to the
Doge), and now used for business ; Frocuratie Nuove
(1584), on S. side, now the Royal Falace ; aud Nuova
Fabbrica (W. side, built by Napoleon in 1810, and the
home of Austrian viceroys until 1866), now connected
with Royal Palace (handsome rooms ; fee, 11.). The
palace arcades are occupied by cafes and bric-a-brao
shops. The vast isolated Gothic Campanile, dating
from the beginning of the 10th century, was 322 feet
in height. It fell to the ground on July 14, 1902, but
a new campanile is building, the first stone having
been laid on St. Mark's day (April 25), 1903. The
pretty Loggetta was destroyed when the camp-
anile fell, but it, too, will be restored. The Clock-
Tower (1496), across the Piazza, at entrance of Mer-
ceria, Venice's chief business street, has a huge beU,
on which two bronze Vulcans strike the hours. The
3 lofty cedar Hagstaffs between the towers used to bear
the banners of Cyprus, Candia, and the Morea, king-
doms tributary to Venice, __
VENICE. 315
The Cathedral of San Marco, on the E. side of the
Piazza, is .a magiiificeut piece of Venetian Byzantine
architectiire, built in 976-1071, in form of Greelc cross,
with 5 domes, 500 marble columns, and 46,000 sq. ft. of
mosaics. Over the portal are 4 horses of gilded copper,
of Roman workmanship, brought from Constantinople
by Dandolo in 1204 ; carried to Paris, in 1797, as war
trophies; and returned in 1815. Below and all around,
and in the great entrance hall, and inside, are mosaics.
8 fine columns in vestibule; also, 3 red slabs com-
memorating the reconciliation of Barbarossa and Pope
Alexander III. (1177); and the porphyry sarcophagus
of Daniele Manin, last President of Venice (1848).
The interior — Gautier's "a golden cavern, incrusted
with precious stones, at once splendid and sombre,
sparkling and mysterious " — is 258 X 210 ft. in area,
with slippery and uneven 11th-century marble pave,
ment, colored-marble pulpits, marble statues (made in
1393) of Christ and the Apostles, Sansovino's bronze
statues of the Evangelists, and sumptuous chapels.
See high altar, with canopy of verde-antico, over tomb
of St. Mark the Apostle ; altar behind it, with 4 spiral
alabaster columns, 2 of which belonged to Solomon's
Temple; Treasury, with Doge Morosini's sword, St.
Mark's throne, a bit of St. John's skull, piece of True
Cross, etc. ; Sacristy (mosaics and inlaid work) and
Crypt, with 64 columns ; Baptistery, with bronze font
and tomb of Andrea Dandolo (1354) ; Zen Chapel, with
magnificent tomb, altar, and statuary; Sansovino's
bronze door, leading to Sacristy ; etc.
Tlie Piazzetta is a small square, running from S.
Marco to tlie Lagoon, on which stand 2 granite columns,
brought from Syria in 1120, and supportuig statues of
St. Theodore and the Winged Lion of St. Mark. On
one side is the finely sculptured Libreria Vecchia, built
316 DOGES' PALACE. — AKSENAL.
by Sansovino in 1582, and now part of Royal Palace
The great ball was frescoed by Veronese, for wbich
Yenice gave liim a gold collar. Alongside is tbe old
Mint, back of which is the Royal Garden. Opposite
is the Doges' Palace, with fapade 246 ft. long, and
fapade of 234 ft. toward the sea. It was built in 800,
and 5 times destroyed and re-erected. Most of present
palace dates from 1350. The red and white marbles,
Oriental designs, and Venetian- Gothic arches, combine
very richly. 36 columns in lower arcade, and 71 above,
in the rich Loggia, with quaint capitals. Ascend San-
sovino's Giants' Staircase, between colossal statues of
Mars and Neptune, where the doges were crowned ;
and observe beautiful court, with statues, cisterns, and
jpart of Silvio Pellico's cell. Inside, see Sansovino's
■Golden Staircase ; Hall of Great Council, 165 X 84 ft.,
with portraits of 76 doges, 21 vast old historical pic-
tures, and Tintoretto's "Paradise;" Sala del Scrutinio,
39 doges' portraits, and many paintings ; Library,
with famous MSS. ; Archaeological Museum., 5 rooms of
ancient marble sculptures ; Sa.la delta Bussola ; Hall
of Council of Ten; and many others, crowded with
paintings, and rich in historical associations. 'Obliging
.guardians in all rooms, with plans, etc.
The Molo, headquarters of gondoliers, is connected
with the busy quay of the Riva dei Schiavoni by a
bridge, whence good view of Bridge of Sighs, leading
from the Palace to the Prison (1512-97), and made
famous by Byron (Ruskin blames his " ignorant senti-
•mentalism "). You may visit the Pozzi, low dungeons
where state-prisoners were deprived of light and (almost)
of air ; and see where the political executions occurred,
^and bodies were given to the gondoliers. In the
Arsenal (open 10-4), founded 1104, were built tne
fleets of the Crusaders. 16.000 men were once em«
VENICE. 617
ployed here (now 2,000). At portal, 4 marble lions,
brought from Greece in 1697, one of which is said to
have stood on Marathon. See military museum, Bu-
centaur, rare weapons, Henri IV.'s armor, Attila's
helmet, etc.
Take gondola and visit chs. E. and N. of Grand
Canal. People help yon ashore at landings, and expect
a penny. The great Italian-Gothic Oh. of Santi Gio-
vanni e Paolo is the Venetian Pantheon, filled with
imposing raausolenms of doges, statesmen, and warriors
(see those of Moceuigo, Bragadino, the Valiers, Ven-
dramin, and Ginstiniani), and valuable old pictures and
statues. In S. transept is a window of stained glass
(1473), which is rare in Venice. The ch. was founded
in 1240 ; and the funerals of the doges always took
place here. Ou adjacent square, see ancient equestrian
statue of Colleoni, a Venetian general. Close by is the
richly carved Scuola di S. Marco (1485), once head-
quarters of a charitable society, now part of vast hospi-
tal. To S. Zaccaria (1457), a Romanesque ch., with
paintings by BeUiui, the doges nsed to go in solemn
procession at beginning of Lent. S. Stefano, where
Lnther once said Mass, is 14th-centQry Gothic, with
many statues and a. beautiful cloister adjacent. See,
in S. Maria del Orto (14S1), splendid Tintorettos;
S. Salvatore (1534), remarkable pictures ; S. Maria del
Miracoli (1480), a Byzantine Renaissance ch., encased
in marble, with rich vaulting ; Gli Scalzi (1649), mag-
nificent ch. of Carmelites, overladen with decorations of
the Decadence; S. Francesco delta Vigna (1534), rich
carvings and chapels of nobles ; S. Fietro di Castello,
Venice's cathedral from 1596 to 1807, with a fine cam-
panile. A second trip may include the chs. S. and W.
of the Grand Canal-. S. Maria della Salute (1631),
whose high dome is conspicuous in pictures of Venice,
318 FRARI. — GRAND CANAL.
a sumptuous ch., witli many statues and paintiugs,
adjoining Patriarchal Seminary (with rich library and
pictures) ; S. Sehastiano (1506), with tomb (see Latin
epitaph) of Paul Veronese, and several of his paintings,
and organ designed by him ; 8. Pantaleone (1668),
very ancient paintings; 8. Oiovcnini Elemosinario {).b9-7),
nearE-ialto; S Giacometto (820), a venerable basilica.
The vast Italian-Gothic Frari, or Franciscan ch. (1250),
contains many famous works of art, costly modern
monument of gray marble to Titian, tombs of Canova
(designed by himself) and of several doges and generals.
In monastery adjacent 300 rooms contain 14,000,000
documents, some dating from 883. S. Bocco (1490,
rebuilt 1725) has fine paintings. Alongside is the splen-
did Pteuaissance Scuola di 8. Rocco (1415-1550), crowd,
ed with pictures by Tintoretto (now sombre in tone),
and with beautiful fapade, staircase, and great halls.
This council-hall of charity is grouped with the Pisan
Campo Santo and the Sjstine Chapel, by art-lovers.
The Grand Canal sliouIH'"be traversed by gondola,
between its lines of famous palaces. On the 1., see
Bog ana (Custom-House), with statue of Portuna on
tower ; r., Palazzo Giustiniani (Hotel Europa) and
Emo-Trhves (with Canova's Hector and Ajax; fee,
IL). On the 1., Patriarchal Seminary and S. Maria
della Salute. Thence the canal passes between palaces
Tiepolo (Hotel Barbesi), Contarini, Perro, Pini-Wimp-
ifen, Corner della Ca Grande, and Barbaro, on the r.,
and Dario-Angarani, Venier, Da Mala^ and Zichy-
Esterhazy, on the 1., and then between Count Cham-
bord's splendid Palazzo Cavalli (r.) and the vast Palazzo
Manzoni-Angarini (1.) and under an iron bridge-
Close to this, on 1., is the Accademia delle Belie
Arti (daily, 9-4 ; 50 c.; buy catalogue), with 700 fin©
^piistures, mainly by Venetian masters, Titian, Bellini,
VENICE. 319
Giorgione, Palma, etc., with some modern works, and
many drawings by Kaphael and Angelo, in noble old
monastic halls. This is one of the great siglits of
Venice. Beyond (1.), see Falazzi Contarini, Rezzonico,
Qiustiniani, Foscari (here the canal bends), Balbi,
Pisani, etc., and on r., Falazzi Grassi, Moro-Lin, Con-
tarini, and Mocenigo, the latter a triple palace, in which
Byron wrote parts of Don Juan, etc. (1818), and where
now is an art-colleetion. Farther on (r. ., see Palazzi
. Corner Spinelli, Cavallini, Grimani(Corte d'Appello),
'Farsetti (towM-liall), 12th-century Loredan (once iiome
of King of Cyprus), Dandolo (Gothic), Bembo, and
Manin (uow National Bank). Then, half-way through
the canal, comes the famous
Rialto, a bridge of one Istrian-marble arch (15S8-
91), covered with sliops, and running from the fruit-
market to the fish-market. Below (1.), see llenaissance
Falazzo de Gamerlenghi (153;3), opposite ponderous
Fondaco de' Tedeschi, built 1506 (frescoed by Titian} for
a German warehouse. Beyond Kialto, Fescheria(S^^\L-
market), on 1. ; Palazzi Michieli and Sagredo, on r. ;
Falazzo Corner delta Regina (uow pawn-office), on site
of Catharine Cornaro's home (1,). Nearly opposite is
the Ga d'Oro, Ruskin's favorite, and a very noble palace.
The Palazzi Pontaua and Grimani are beyond (r.) ;
also, Palazzo Pesaro (1.), whose rich halls are open
daily (1 1.) Nearly opposite each other, see Falazzo
Vendramin Gale rg hi, the magnificent modern palace of
Couut de Ciiambord (open daily, 11.), and the Fondaco
de' Ttirchi, once headquarters of Turkish merchants
(here see Gorner Museum, open Wed. and Sat., 12-4,
with MSS. and paintings about Venetian history).
At the Palazzo Labia the Canareggio diverges to the
r. It contains the Palazzo Manfrln, with large picture-
gallery (open 10-3, I 1.). Beyond iron bridge and rly.
320 S. LAZZARO. — MURANO.
stat., the Grand Canal enters the Lagoon, by the
island of S. Chiara. Near the stat. are the famous
Papadopoli and Botanical gardens. The theatres are
the Venice, seating 3,000 people, Goldoni, Hossmi,
Marionette, and Malibran. See Tintoretto's house,
in the Campo dei Mori; and Titian's house, in the
Sanciano. Just S. of the city are the islands of La
Giudecca, with Palladios Redentore ch. (Franciscan);
and S. Giorgio Maggiore, with a great Benedictine
monastery, cruciform ch. by Palladio, full of art-
treasures, and campanile which gives superb view.
Rather shabby Public Gardens, S.E. part of city.
2 M. S. E. is the island of S. Lazzaro, with great
Armenian monastery.
The islands were first colonized by fugitives from
the mainland towns, ravaged by Attila. In 697 the
first doge was chosen; and in 819 the present site of
Venice became a capital. During the Crusades the
republic grew rapidly, and conquered the coasts and
islands of the Adriatic and Levant, For 300 years its
power was vast, and Venice was Europe's chief port.
In 1508 its star began to wane. By 1718 it was quite
decadent. In 1797. the French captured the city,
which was afterwards annexed to Austria. In 1866
it became Italian.
Excui^sions. — To the Lido (ihr. by gondola; 60 c.
to go and return; steamer in 12min., 30c,), the beach
on the Adriatic, with fine baths (la Favorita, 1 1.) and
summer-hotels. — To Malamocco, at S, end of Lido ;
and Chioggia (steamer, 1^-21.), 30 M. S., an ancient
lagoon-town (27,000 inhab.), — To the Cemetery, on 2
islands to the N,, with S, Michele ch, (1466). Funeral
processions of gondolas very interesting. — To Murano
(4, 000 inhab,), li M. N,, with famous glass and mosaic
factories, museum of old glass (40 c), a magnificent
Cathedral (11111 and ch. of S, Fietro e Faolo (1509),
FERRAKA. 321
a noble and simple basilica. The Murano school of
art preceded that of Venice. — To Torcello, 6 M. N. E.
(2 hrs. by gondola), once rich and great, now poor and
depopulated, but with a wonderful 7th-century Cathe-
dral, famous for grand mosaics ; an octagonal Baptis-
tery (1008) ; and 8. Fosea, a strange 12th-century
Byzantine ch., surrounded by arcades.
Steamers, Tues., Thurs., and Sat. at midnight for
Trieste (7 hrs.; fares, 12 1. 60; 8 1. 40. Rly. Venice
to Trieste, 5| hrs. (fares, 27 fr. 40; 19 fr. 65).
Ferrara, Bologna, Modena, and Parma.
It is ICl M. (fares, 19 1. 45 c, 141. 5 c, 101.) from,
Venice through venerable Padua; Rovigo {Corona
Ferrea and other hotels), with its vast palace and pic-
ture-gallery ; and Ferrara, to Bologna. Ferrara
{Europa; Stella d'Oro; Pellegrino) , in a miasmatic
plain near the Fo, has shrunk from 100,000 to 79,000
inhab., and has many wide empty streets and crumbling
palaces. In the golden era of the House of Este
(1300-1600) it was famous for art and letters, and
Ariosto and Tasso lived at its court. See Lombardic
Cathedral (1135), imposing fa9ade, many pictures, and
handsome campanile (1550) ; S. Benedetto, with paint-
ing of Paradise, in which Ariosto had his portrait in-
troduced ; S. Francesco, several domes ; S. Maria in.
Vado, very ancient ; S. Paolo ; monuments to Ariosto
and Savonarola; houses of Ariosto and Guarini; Vni'
versity, with library of 100,000 vols. (MSS. of Pastor
Fido, and parts of Gerusalemme and Orlando Furioso)y
museum, and tomb of Ariosto; St. Anna's Hospital^
where Tasso was imprisoned 7 years in a cell, since
visited by Byron, Lamartine, and Goethe ; and Pa-
lazzo de' Biamanti (1493-1567), with the Civic Pictur©'
31
83^ BOLOGNA.
Gallery (open 9-3, free), 8 rooms filled with ancient
paintings. The Castle is a huge old square fortress,
in the centre of Ferrara, with 4 towers, deep moats and
frescoed halls. Is the scene of Byron's tragic Parisina.
Bologna. (Hotel Brnn.; Q-rand Hotel d^Italie; Pelle-
grino), capital of Romagna (145,000 inh.) stands on
a rich plain near the Apennines, and is surrounded by
brick wall, 3-4 M. around, with 12 gates. An Etruscan
town ; conquered by Gauls ; allied with Carthage ;
occupied by Rome, e.g. 190; then Greek, Lombard,
Frank ; a free town under Charlemagne ; anti-imperiai
(Guelph) ; annexed to States of the Church in 1512,
and to Italy in 1859. Its splendid Roman temples,
theatres, and baths were swept away by the barbarians.
It was the seat of the art-school of the Caracci ; aud
the home of Eraucia, Albano, Domenichino, (jruido
Reui, and Guercino (see houses of last two ; and of
Rossini, the composer, a native of Bologna). S.
Petronio (1390) is a vast Tuscan-Gothic cli. (half
iinished), 384 ft. long, 156 ft. wide, with many rich
chapels, mural paintings, and sculptures. Fapade has
many sculptures (made 1394-1525) of biblical sub-
jects. Michael Angelo's statue of Pope Julius II. was
broken in pieces by the people (1511). Charles V,
was crowned Ernperor here (1530). S. Domenico
contains splendid tomb of St. Dominic, with sculptures
by Michael Angelo ; and tombs of Guido Reni and
Elisabetta Sirani. The University is in Palazzo
Gelled, with 1,400 students ; library of 150,000 vols,
(open 9-3), once conducted by Mezzofanti ; large
museums of geology, antiquities, etc. It dates from
1119, and once had 10,000 students, and several female
professors. The Academy of Pine Arts (open 9-3.30;
1 1.) is one of the most famous in Italy, and has.
Raphael's St. Cecilia. The Musm Civico is in the
Palazzo Galvani (1 fr., Sun. and holidays free).
BOLOGNA. 323
See, in S. Bartolommeo, horrible portrayal of
martyrdom of St. Bartholomew; S. Cecilia (1481),
frescos by Francia, and nunnery of St. Catherine
Vigri; S. Stefano, a group of 7 chs., with rare old
Celestine cloister ; S. Giovanni in Monte (a.J). 433),
precious paintings; S. Vitale (a.d. 428), lately re-
stored; and other very notn,ble and ancient chs.
Also, Palazzo Puhlico (1290), ancient frescos,
statues, chapel, and Bramante's staircase; Palazzo
del Podestd (1201), where King Enzio, son of the
Emperor, was imprisoned many years; Oploteca,
museum of weapons; leaning towers of Asinelli
(1109; 272 ft. high; grand view of mts.) and Gari-
senda {1110; mentioned in Dante's Inferno)-, Archi-
ginnasio (1572), town library (open 10-4), museum of
antiquities, Galvani's anatomical lecture-room; Pa-
lazzo Bentivoglio, 16th century, on site of old Castle;
Palazzo Fava, and Collegio di Spagna (1364), frescos
by Caracci ; Loggia de' Mercanti (1294), venerable
Gothic exchange; Piazza Vittorio Emanuele, and S.
Domenico, fountain and statues; Palazzo Pepoli
(1344), vast and imposing ; Palazzo Zampieri, with
great picture-gallery (i 1.) ; and many other palaces.
La Montagnola is a plateau and public garden,
with, views of Bologna and the Appenines. f M. S.
is S. Michele in Bosco, orthopedic institute, for-
merly convent founded by St. Basil in 4th century,
in whose ch. and cloisters Guido and the Caracci
left noble paintings. 2^ M. S.-W. is the Madonna
di S. Luca, a pilgrimage-ch. on strongly fortified
hill, approached by arcade 1 M. long (635 arches;
100 years in building), and viewing Apennines
and Adriatic. It contains portrait of the Virgin,
ascribed to St. Luke, brought from Constantinople
in 1160. Ou the way hither, visit La Certosa, a
Carthusian monastery (1335), whose cloisters now con-
i,ain very interesting Campo Santo (cemetery), with
334 MODENA. — PARMA.
rich monuments, a statue-adorned rotunda, and a col-
ossal lion commemorating the martyrs for liberty.
If yoTi intend going S. to E-ome, and thence N.
along the Mediterranean, it is well to make a side-
trip from Bologna to Modena (23 M.) and Parma
(54 M.).
Modena {Albergo Reale; S. Marco), an ancient
ducal capital (58,000 inhab.), was once an important
Roman town, where Antony besieged Brutus (b.c. 43),
on the Via Emilia, from Rome to the N. A stately
city, surrounded with ramparts, on which are prome-
nades. See Cathedral (1099-1184), with Arthurian
sculptures (1100), rose-window, monumental tombs,
and lofty colonnaded crypt ; renowned Campanile^
called La Ghirlandina (1224-1319), 335 ft. high, en-
cased in white marble, with wooden bucket taken from
the Bolognese in 1325 (Tassoni, who wrote a poem
about it, has a statue near by) ; S. Michele, in which
Muratori is buried; Begarelli's Pieta, which Michael
Angelo praised; JPiiblic Gaa^deiis; and ramparts, with
views of Appenines. The vast and msignificentPalazzo
Reale (formerly Ducal Palace) has noble fagade on
Piazza Reale, and a courtyard surrounded by colon-
nades. See Library, 120,000 vols, and 3,000 MSS.
(14th-century edition of Dante); cabinets of medals
and gems, and archives; large gallery of pictures (open
9-3), many of which are copies, a fact which the
catalogue omits to state.
Parma ( Croce Bianca; Concordia; Italia), founded
by the Etruscans; became Roman, b.c. 183; was
Lombardic, a city of Charlemagne, of the Holy See, a
Guelphic stronghold; seat of the Farnese princes,
1545-1731; and capital of Duchy from 1815 until
1859, when it fell to Italy (45,000 inhab.). The Ro-
man Via Emilia cuts through its centre; and dreary,
«leut streets diverge on both sides. Parma is sur-
EEGGIO. — E A VENN A. 325
rounded by great walls, "with 5 gates and a strong
citadel. See Romanesque Cathedral (13 century),
with notable crypt, rich monuments, and Correggio's
vast and world-renowned fresco of The Assumption;
Baptistery (1196-1270), octagonal marble ch., with
colonnades, quaint carvings, old frescos ; S. Giovanni
Eoangelisfa (1510), remarkable frescos by Correggio
in dome and cloisters ; Madonna delta Steccafa (1521),
fine frescos, and tombs of notables ; Convent of S.
Paolo (50 c), with Correggio's famous lunettes and
Diana; Farnese Theatre (50c.); Stradone, promenade
near citadel ; and Public Garden, with an old Farnese
chateau, richly frescoed. The Ducal Palace (Farnese),
founded 1597, lias museums of antiquities and pictures
(open 9-4 ; 11.), with many famous works of Correggio
and the Caracci, including Correggio's Scala and Sco-
della Madonnas and St. Jerome (II (jiorno). The Library
bus 206,000 vols., and many Oriental MSS. Picturesque
old road from Parma to La Spezia, on Gulf of Genoa.
Reggio (Posta^, between Parma and Modena,
(50,000 inhab.), with notable walls, citadel, theatre,
and cathedral, fine chs., and Ariosto's birthplace, is 9
M. from Correggio, the great artist's birthplace , and
4 hrs. drive from rains of Canossa, where Henry lY.
of Germany performed penance befo'e Pope Gregory
YII. (1077).
Ravenna, Rimini, Ancona, Brindisi,
and Taranto.
From Bologna it is 52i M. (9^1., 61. 70 c., 41.
80 c") to "RsL'^enna ((Byron; Spada'd'Oro), a Thes-
salian colony, once capital of Roman empire; captured
by Odoacer and Theodoric; capital of the Gothic kings,
493-552 ; thence for 200 years capital of Exui-cIj.'^- c^r
326 RAVENNA. — DANTE'S TOMB.
governors sent by Greek emperors ; taken by Lom-
bards, and by Pepin of France, who gave it to tlie
Pope ; Yenetian garrison, 1440-1509 ; and attached to
States of the Church, 1509-1860. It is now a dreamy
town of 62,000 inhab., very rich in early Christian art;
and 5 M. from the Adriatic, of which it was once a
cliief port. Dante's Tomb (1482), a dome-covered
structure, with carvings, contains the ashes (discovered
in 1865 in ch. of S. Francesco) of the poet, who
died here, in exile and under excommunication, in 1321.
Byron lived at Ravenna 2 years, and wrote several
great poems. See site of the house wh'^re Dante
lived; in Piazza Vittoria EmanueU, tall columns with
statues, erected by the Yenetians in 1494, and colon-
nade of old basilica; Cathedral, on site of 4th-century
ch., with 8th-century minaret-like campanile, 6th-cen-
tury tombs, and silver crucifix, and paintings by Guido ;
4th-century octagonal Bajptistery, with 5th-century
font and mosaics (Baptism of Christ, etc.) ; ArcJiiepisco-
pal Palace, 5th -century chapel, 25,000 parchments in
archives ; S. Apollinare, built in 500 by Theodoric for
the Arians, and given by Justinian to the Catholics,
with round campanile, 24 columns from Constantinople,
and many Bth-century mosaics ; S. Vita-le, consecrated
in 547 by St. Maximian, copied from S. Sophia, at
Constantinople, octagonal, with massive pillars, many
beautiful and brilliant mosaics of Justinian's time,
Greek and Roman reliefs, and a dome of eartheu vases
bound together ; Mausoleum of G-alla Placidia, built
440 by Empress Galla Placidia, small domed cruciform
c!i., with mosaics, and sarcophagi of Honorius and
Constantius III.' (the only Roman emperors whose
tombs remain undisturbed)*, Academi) of Fine Arh
(75 c), pictures by Ravennese masters, vases, bronzes ;
Library (open 9-2) of 50,000 vols., and many rare
RIMINI. — SAN MARINC. 327
MSS., in old Monastery of Classe, wliich has frescoed
refectory ; *S'. Niccolb (760), now deserted ; S. Gio-
vanni Eoangelisfa (444 j, near rly. stat., 24 antique col-
umns, and frescos by Giotto ; remains of Palace of
Theocloric ; and many other old chs. and great palaces.
Outside the Porta Serrata is the tomb of Theodorio
the Great (530), a ponderous structure (now a ch.)
covered with a block of Istrian stone 36 ft. in diameter.
S. Maria in Porta Fiiori, 2^ M. out, is an open-roofed
basilica (1096). S. ApoUinare in Classe (a..d. 534),
3 M. out, is a magnificent basilica, with 24 cipolline
columns,^ open roof, 6tli-century mosaics, a noble altar,
and portraits of 126 bishops of Havenua, from St.
ApoUiuaris (martyred a.d. 74) to the present. Beyond
is La Pineta, tde famous and venerable pine-forest,
known to the Romans, praised by Byron, Boccaccio,
Dante, etc., and covering many leagues. Highway
along coast to Rimini, 31 M.
The rly. S. E. from Bologna traverses Imola ; Castel
Bolognefie ; Faenza {Corona; Vittoria), a walled
town of 20,000 Inhab., with great citadel and potteries
(whence Faience) ; Forli (17,000 inhab.), at foot of
Apennines, with line cathedral and castles; Cesena with
handsome palaces and rare library; Rimini {Leon
d'Oro; Aquila d'Oro), a pretty city (33,000 inh.) and
summer resort on the Adriatic, with magnificent class-
ical cathedral, dilapidated Malatesta Palace, Roman
triumphal arch and bridge, and house of Francesca da
Rimini (25 1. for carriage tlience, 15 M., to San Marino,
capital of Republic of same name, the oldest govern-
ment in Europe). The rly. follows the Adriatic to
Pesaro, birthplace of Rossini, where there are fine
chs., a rich library, and the old Palace of Dukes of
Urbino, once a brilliant literary centre. Here Tasso
wrote the Amadis. Diligence in 6 hrs. {2\\ M.) to
328 ANCONA. — PISTOJA.
Urbino (JtaMa), a town of 16,000 iiihab., surrounded
by sombre mts. Raphael's birthplace is shown ; also,
grand Renaissance Ducal Palace, and chs. ricli in art.
Ancona {La Pace ; Vitforia^ is built on an amphi^
theatrical hillside facing the Adriatic, and has 46,000
inhab., with high-placed semi-Oriental cathedral (col-
umns from the Temple of Venus), colossal statue of
Cavour, liandsome palaces, and (on the Mold) tri-
umphal arch reared by the Roman Senate, a.d. 113, to
Trajan, and another in honor of Pope Clement XII.
11-14 hrs. distant by rly. (621. 80 e., 441., 311.
40 c.) is Brindisi {International; Centrale; Europa;
tolerable), once an important Roman naval * station,
and now the chief point of departure for the East
Indies, on the mail-route from England to India. It is
growing rapidly 27,000 inhab.), and is visited bj
steamers for Adriatic, Greek, Italian, and Levantim
ports (3 days to Alexandria). Here the Appian Waj
ended; and here Virgil died.
53f M. hence by rly. (10 1. 60 c, 6 1. 70 c, 4 1. 80 c.)
to Otranto, a port on tiie heel of the Italian boot.
Br. ry. from Bari to Taranto {Aquila d/Oro; Europa),
with richly decorated Cathedral and strong castle.
Ancona to Rome by rly., 183 M. (351, 241. 70 c.).
Few tourists will go S. of Ravenna on this coast.
Bologna to Florence, in 82 M. (5-6 hrs. ; fares,
141. 20 c., 101. 45 c., 71. 55 c.), by remarkably pictu-
resque rly. across the Apennines, with many very costly
bridges, tunnels, galleries, and viaducts, and down to
the rich Tuscan plains (superb views) . Pistoja ( O-loho)
is an ancient town of 13,000 inhabitants, at fool
of Apennines, rich in 13th and 14th-century sculptures,
and a favorite summer-resort for Florentines. Pistols
are named from this town. Catiline was defeated and
killed near by. See, in 12th-century GatJiedral, monU'
FLORENCE. 329
ments, cboir-stalls, and silver altar ; Campanile, once a
fortified tower ; Italian- Gotliic Baptistery, of black and
white marble ; S. Andrea, splendid pulpit (1298-1301)
and carved architrave; several other rich chs. and
massive old palaces ; and suburban Villa Puccini, in
beautiful gardens.
Pistoja to Pisa, 40^ M. (6 1. 60 c, 5 1. 35 c, 4^1.) ;
to Florence, 21j M. ; 45 min.
Florence. /
Hotels : Orand ; Florence and Washington ;
Neiv York; Italie; de la Ville; Palace; Cavour;
d' Europe; Porta Rossa; Victoria-, Alliance; Anglo-
American; 3Iinerva Paoli; Albion; Bristol; Grande
Bretagne. There are also many excellent pensions
where those making a long stay can live cheaply and
well. Furnished apartments may also be had reason-
ably, meals being prepared at home, sent in from
one of the trattorie, or taken in the restaurants.
Theatres: Nicolini; della Pergola; Politeama
Nazionale (fine summer theatre) ; Verdi-, Alhambra.
British, Yia Tornabuoui, No. 2.
IFlorentia was founded by the Romans, before Christ ;
ravaged by the barbarians ; rose to great commercial
importance by 1100 ; suffered from centuries of civil
conflicts and foreign wars ; ruled by the Medici faToily, .
1434-1737 ; by dukes of the house of Lorraine, 1737
-1860 ; and was capital of Italy, 1864-70. Since 1870
it has fallen into decay and financial embarrassment,
but is a favorite winter-resort, by reason of its vast
art-treasures, natural beauty, and cheapness of living.
It stands on a narrow plain, partly surrounded by
the Apennines and their foot-hills, and cut in two
by the river Aruo, which is nearly dry in summer.
There are 200,000 inhab.
330 PALAZZO VECCHIO. — UFFIZI GALLERY.
The Piazza della Signoria, the central square^
forum of the Republic, and present business-centre, i?
adorned by bronze equestrian statue of Cosmo, marble
lion, and Neptune Fountain, erected in 1564-75, on
site of Savonarola's martyrdom. Here fronts the
Palazzo Vecchio (bui^ 1298), once capitol of Re-
public and palace of Cosmo I., and now town-hall, — a
tall, massive, and formidable fortress-palace. Enter (by
Bandinelli's statues of Hercules and Cacus) the court'
yard, with Miclielozzi's dainty arabesques, Yasari's
fountain, Yerocchio's statue of a boy. The Hall of the
Great Council was built in 1495, at Savonarola's order.
Italian Parliament sat here, 1865-70. Yasari and oth-
ers made many of the frescos ; and two very famous
cartoons were drawn by Leonardo and Angelo, for this
hall. See Hall of the Two Hundred, used by town-
council ; Hall of the Lilies, with rich marble work ; and
Medici apartments. Campanile built by Arnolfo del
Cambio, 308 ft. high (450 steps), gives a grand view.
Its bell Avas the rallying-sound in the civil Vi^ars. In
front is the Loggia dei Lanzij a very graceful arcade
built in 1376 for Cosmo's guards of lancers ; later, a
tribune Mdieuce the people were harangued ; and now
conta^ining celebrated statues, — Benvenuto Cellini's
"Perseus," Donatello's "Judith," Giovanni da Bo-
logna's "Hercules," etc. Alongside Palazzo A^ecchio,
see Palazzo TJguccione, planned by Raphael ; opposite
which is new Palazzo Fenzi, in Early Plorentine style.
Between Yecchio and Loggia, enter Portico degli Uffizi,
built by Yasari, 1560-74, with marble statues of 24
famous Tuscans. On r., entrances to Mint, now
Post- Office ; on 1., to the world-renovv^ued
Uffizi Gallery (open 10-4, adni, 1 fr., Sundays,
free; catalogues, 3| 1.), the vast art-collections
made by the Medici and Lorraine dynasties. See Niole
I
FLORENCE, 331
BaU^ aali<^ae«>statues of Niobe and her cliildren ; hall
of portraits of painters, made by themselves ; Tribuna,
with Venus de Medici, Wi'estlers, Apollino, and many
celebrated paintings ; cabinets of gems, cameos, bronzes,
and vases ; vast collections of ^Flemish, German, Dutch,
and Venetian pictures ; and masterpieces of Raphael,
Titian, Correggio, etc. Tlie National Library (open
10-4)lias480,000 vols., 18,000 MSS., rare books, and
•the great Tuscan archives.
The grand and massive Pitti Palace, S. of the Aruo,
was begun in 1440, on Brunelieschi's plans, for the
merchant Pitti, whose heirs sold it in 1559 to the Medici,
who made it their home, and had Vasari joiu it to the
Palazzo Vecchio by a corridor 1,800 ft. long (now tilled
with rare drawings by Itahan masters). Tiie Pitti is
occasionally occupied by the king. Its front (121 ft.
high) is of enormous blocks of stone, 20-25 ft. long.
On the second floor is a gallery (Tne., Thnrs., Snn.,
10-4) of 500 fine old pictures, in 13 magnificent sa-
loons, richly frescoed and adorned with tables and
cabinets of marble, alabaster, malachite, and mosaic.
Here are some of the best works of Eaphael, Titian, .
etc. The Boboii Garden (open Tues., Thurs.,
Sun., 12-6), back of the palace, was laid out in 1500,
and its hill-terraces command noble views of Florence
(especially from Belvedere) . See ampitheatre, grotto,
obelisk, Neptune's statue (by Giovanni da Bologna),
etc. Near the Pitti is the extensive and valuable Mu-
seum of Physics, with Galileo's first telescopes, and
one of his fingers; also rare botanical collections.
The Academy of Fine Arts (open 10-4, 1 1. ;
Suns, and festivals free) contains schools of design,
painting, architecture, music, mechanism, chemistry,
etc., and a noble collection of old religious pictures
showing the development of Tuscan art. The lowel
332 NATIONAL MUSEUM. — CATHEDKAL.
halls contain modem paintings. The court is decorated
witli reliefs by Luca della Robbia. In second court is
Michael Angelo's celebrated statue ot* David. Floren-
tine Mosaic-factory in same building (museum open
daily). Close by, in cloisters of the Scaizo, fin>e frescos
by Andrea del Sarto ; also Medicean Casino, built 1570.
In same square is Ch. of S. Marco (1290), with many
pictures and statues, and tombs of Politian and Pico
della Mirandola. Next door is the famous old Domini-
can Monastery of S. Marco, now occupied by a museum
(open 10-4, 1 1. ; free Sun. ; guide-book, 1^1.) of choice
works of old masters, great number of frescos by Ifra
Angelico, etc., in cloisters, cells, and refectory. See
cell of Savonarola. Era Angelico, Fra Bartolommeo,
St. Antoninus, and Politian were monks here. The
dccademia della Cr,^sca, founded in 1582 to preserve
she purity of tlie Italian language, is established here.
The National Museum (open 10-4, 1 1. ; Sun. free)
has a hail of mediaeval bronzes, with Giovanni da
Bologna's ceaebrated" Mercury," Donatello's "David,"
*' St George," and 8 other works; Carrand collection
of paintings; a collection of weapons; statuary by
Angelo, Baudinelli, etc. ; ancient furniture ; faience ;
celebrated frescos by Giotto, in old chapel ; rich terra-
cottas ; staiiied glass, etc. It is in the Palazzo del
Fodesta, or II Bargello, built 1256 for the Florentine
chief magistrate ; fortified 1317 ; and often assailed by
the populace. The curfew was sounded from the cam-
panile. The prisons and torture-rooms were here. See
picturesque court.
The Cathedral of l!Sm. Maria del Flore (so called
t'rom the lily in the arms of Plorence), one of the grand-
est Gothic chs. of Europe, was built 1294-1474, by
Arnoifo, Giotto, Gaddi and Orcagna, on site of older
ch. of S. Reparata, and is 556| ft. long, and 342 ft.
FLORENCE, S33
wide (at transepts), wltli walls of beautiful wtite and
colored marbles. The nave is 154 ft. higli. Beautiful
-porcb on Via Ricasoli, with pillars resting on backs of
lions r, and over the door statues by Douatello and
Jacopo della Querela. The interior is impressive, but
simple, with huge pillars flanking the lofty nave, rich
marble-mosaic pavement, and stained windows. See
Jacopo della Quercia's "Madonna," Uccello's frescos,
Gaddi's mosaics, Angelo's " Entombment ; " bronze
doors, by Luca della Robbia; statues, portraits, and
tombs of many celebrated Elorentines. It is a perfect
treasure-house of art. The stained glass was designed
by Ghiberti and Donatello, and made at Lubeck. The
Dome, 352 ft. high, made by Brunelleschi (1421-36) is
higher than that of St. Peter's, and may be ascended
(463 steps ; 57 more to the Cross ; fee, 1 1.). Interest-
ing details, and grand view. King Victor Emmanuel
laid foundations of new main fapade in 1860. In this
oh. Giuliano de' Medici fell under the daggers of the
Pazzi ; the Greek Emperor offered to become Catholic ;
and Erederick II. of Germany knighted many of his
fierce captains. In the Opera del Duomo is the
Cathedral Museum {^ fr.).
The Italian-Gothic Campanile, the most marvellous
beR-tower in the world, is Giotto's noblest work
(1334-36). It is 292 ft. high, in 4 stories, of which
the uppermost is superbly decorated, with delicate
tracery around windows, and many statues and reliefs
by Giotto, Donatello, and other masters. The tower is
built of variegated marbles. Eee to ascend, 1 1. Noble
view of Elorence and Apennines (414 steps). Along-
side is the famous ch. of the Misericordia, whose
cowled brethren are often seen upon the streets and
opposite is the Canonry, with statues of Amolfo and
Brunelleschi, See Sasso di Dante, near by, a stone oa
which Dante used to sit.
334 BAPTISTERY.
The Baptistery of *S'. Giovanni (6th centuryj, oppo-
site the Cathedral, is an octas^onal marble ch., 94 ft. in
diameter, with dome. Until 1128 it was used as a
cathedral. Here are Ghiberti's celebrated broiizt?
doors (1408-52), with 10 Old-Testament scenes, and
28 from life of Christ and early Church history.
Michael Angelo declared these worthy to be the gates
of Paradise (see also George Eliot's Romolci). At
the sides are two porphyry columns, given by Pisa in
1200. Bronze door on S., scenes from life of St.
John, made by Andrea Pisano (1408-30). Inside are
many statues, dim old mosaics, Oriental-granite col-
umns, and tomb of Pope John XXllI. SS. Ammn-
ziata (1250) contains Andrea del Sarto's best works,
sumptuous chapels, and cloisters. S. Croce, built
(1294-1442) by Arnolfo and Vasari, is an imposing
cruciform basilica, with modern fa9ade of black and
white marbles (1863), high tower, and rich cloisters and
refectory (many paintings). In this vast old Ploren-
tine Pantheon are the tombs of Galileo, Michael Angelo,
Macchiavelli, Raphael Morghen, Lanzi, Cherubini,
Ugo Poscolo, and other great men; and monuments to
Dante and Alfieri. Hare treasures of art, including
many frescos by Giotto. In front, see noble modern
statue of Dante. S. Lorenzo, consecrated by St.
Ambrose in 393, and rebuilt by the Medici in 1425,
from Brunelleschi's and Michael Angelo's plans, is a
sumptuous Poraanesque ch., resting on 14 tall Corinth-
ian columns, and containing tomb of Cosmo, "Patlier of
his People ; " and sculptures by Donatello, Brunelleschi,
Michael Angelo, and Thorwaldsen. In new Sacristv
are Angelo's Twilight, Dawn, Day, and Night, over
the tombs of the Medici. The Chapel of the Princes
(1604), erected by the Medici at a cost of $4,400,000,
for their sepulchres, is a dome-covered octagon, lined
FLORENCE. 335
With precious marbles, mosaics, and frescos. Adjacent
sceLauren^m^ Ubmry (open 9-3; i-U.), fonnded
1444 by Cosmo, m buildmg planned by Michael
Angelo. Priceless old vols, and 8,000 MSS., many of
them rare, by Dante, Alfieri, Petrarch, Boccaccio, and
ot Virg-il, vEscliylus, etc. 1
S Maria Novella (1278-1371) is a beautiful ch.'
pt black and white marbles, with arcades, and attractive
interior, on slender pillars. See Ghiriandajo's famous
jrescos, m choir ; Brunelleschi's crucifix, in Gondi
Uiapei;^ Gimabue s Madonna, borne in triumph by the
Florentines from the studio to the ch. ; Orcama's
trescos, m Strozzi Chapel, and in Green Cloister : vast
blottesque frescos, in Spanish Chapel; and Great
Cloisters, the largest in Plorence. See, also, in S
Maria Maddalem, fresco by Perugino; La Badia
with ancieiit tombs and tall tower; Or San Michell
built in 1284 by Arnolfo for a corn-haU, and made a
Gotluc ch. in 1337-55, with many statues by the great
yfo-n?^ ^^^ .^^t^^'^ by Orcagna (1359) ; S. Trinita
Ci2o0) •Carmine (1422), with cloisters, and Masaccio's
lamous frescos (studied by Perugino, Raphael, An-
fn mn |^^°^^^^^o)- See, also, Marucellian library,
/UOUO vols.; Riccardian library, containing oldest-^
Mb. m existence (Pliny) ; houses of Benvenuto Cel-
lim, Dante, Ghiberti, Bianca Capello, Amerigo Ves-
pucci, Galileo, MacchiavelH, Guicciardini, Andrea del
barto; the great hospitals, decorated by the masters
(especially Poundlmg Hospital, S. Maria Nuova) ; busy
Mercato Iliwvo ; and interesting great Egyptian and
Etruscan Museum (open 9-3 ; 1 1.), in refectory of old
Convent ot S. Onofrio, vases, rehefs, implements, etc.,
and fresco (1505) of "Last Supper;" and house ol
Michael Angelo (daily, 10-4; \ f r. ; Men., Thurs.,
Iree), with museum of works cind relics of Angelo
Ihere are scores of huge old palaces, mainly by
336 LUNG' ARNO.
illustrious architects. Among them, see Ridolji (Uu*
eellai), which was sacked bj the people in 1527 ; AltoviH,
with marble portraits of famous Florentines ; Corsini,
very elegant, with large picture-gallery (open Tues.,
Eri., and Sat.) ; Strozzi, 3 vast facades, a very perfect
and imposing palace, with picture-gallery (open) ; Ric-
cardi (1434), original and stately home of the Medici
(see chapel and courts) ; Fotttebuoni, where Alfieri
died; /5^om, now municipal offices; Manelli (1565);
Panciatichi, with picture-gallery ; and Torrigiano, with,
large gallery (open daily) and famous gardens.
The Arno is bordered by the handsome old quays of
the Iiung' Arno, on both sides, and crossed by the
picturesque Fonte Vecchio (1362), covered with shops;
elegant Ponte S. Trinita, built 1252 ; Ponte alia Car-
raja (1218), often restored; Ponte alle Grazie (1235) ;
and 2 suspension-bridges. The Via dei Cahajuoli, from
cathedral to Uffizi, and Via Tornabuoni are the busiest
streets. There are many picturesque squares, adorned
with statues and fountains.
Excursions. — The Cascine, a narrow park extend*
ing 2 M. along the Arno, just W. of Florence, has
favorite rambles and drives (military music, zoological
garden, etc.). — Along the Viale dei Colle to Piazza
Michael Angelo, a beautiful esplanade (dedicated
1875), with monument and bronze copies of Angelo's
works. — S. Miniato is a beautiful ch. on far- viewing
hill on E., in Pisan-Florentine architecture (1013), with
rich fapade, mosaics, 14 great marble columns, open
roof, notable crypt, niello mosaic pavement (1207), and
finely frescoed sacristy. Charnnng view of Florence.
— Bello Sguardo, just S. W. of Florence, commands
a lamous view over city and mts. — The Poggio Im-
periale, once a ducal villa, now a nuns' school, is out-
side and above the Porta Bomana, reached by fine
avenue of trees. I^ear'^W h the tower whifiJi wm
FIESOLE. — VALLOMBROSA. 33?
Galileo's observatory; also, villa where he livedo
1G31-43, and was visited by Milton. In adjacent
villa, Guicciardini wrote the history of Italy. — La
Certosa, 3 M. from Porta Romana, is a rast and
fortress-like Carthusian monastery, built 1341, from
Orcagna's plans. Fine paintings, monuments, etc., in
cn.j cloisters, and chapter-house (11.). — Monte Oli-
veto, 1 M. from Forta S. Frediaiio, is a monastery
(1334), whence grand views. — Villa San Donato
(Demidoff), open Mon. and Eri. (5 1.). — Villa Ca-
reggi, 2-3 M. N., once seat of Medici and Platonic
Academy. Cosmo and Lorenzo died here. — Foggio
tt Cajano, royal villa, 12 M. N. W. ; and Villa della
Fetraia, anotlier royal residence. — Pratolino, former
forest-palace of Medici.
Fiesole, 3 M. N. of Plorence, beyond convent where
Pra Angelico dwelt, was an Etruscan city, and retains
parts of vast Myalls. See also Cathedral (1028), and
old palaces adjacent; Eranciscan convent, on site of
Acropolis; ancient theatre (50c.); splendid abbey;
and fascinating views of Val d' Arno.
Vallombrosa, 18 M. distant, among the Apennines,
may be visited in a day. Yast abbey, founded 1050,
now a school of forestry. 1 hr.'s climb hence to top of
Fratomagno, 5,323 ft. high, with noble view to Medi-
terranean. Excursion also to very picturesque Casen*
tino region, and grand old abbeys of Camaldoli and
Aloernia.
Arezzo, Orvieto, Perugia, If'oligno, Siena*
From Florence we would recommend you to go to Rome by
the shortest route, through Arezzo, Orvieto, and Orte (195t
M. ; fares, 33 1. 85 c, 23 1. 30 c, I6i 1. ; by express -trains,
381. 5 c., 261.40 c.). Fares by express fr«m Moretioe to
Arezzo, 54^ M., 101. 10 c, 7 i. 5c.
338 AREZZO. — PERUGIA.
Beautiful rat. scenery on the long ascent xo
'A.Tezzo{ViUoria; La Stella; Inf/Mlter7'a),a.n ancient
Etruscan city ■which became an ally of Rome^ B.C. 310.
Here Maecenas, Vasari, Petrarch, and other famous men
wei'e born. It now has 18,000 inhab. See Italian-
Gothic Cathedral (1177), with many pictures, tombs,
etc. S. Maria della Pieve, remarkable lafade ; S. Fran-
cesco, interesting frescos ; Museum, majolicas, bronzes,
antiques ; Ahhey of 8. Mora ; old palaces, chs., and
statues. Cortona {Nazionale), another Etruscan
town, has great Gathed^ral, Museum, vast Etruscan
walls, and fortress (superb view). Rly. runs near Lake
ThrasT/mene and the lovely Yal di Chiana. Orvieto
{Belle Arti ; Aquila Bianca : omnibus from stat., 1 1.)
stands on a lofty volcanic rock ; and has a magnificent
Cathedral (1290-1600) of black and white marble, with
nave 111 ft. high, crowded with mosaics, carvings,
shrines, and frescos by Luca Signorelli and Era An-
gelico. The route hence to Eome leads by Monte
Rotondo and Montana, where Garibaldi was defeated Id
1S67.
A longer rly. route to Eome leads from Cortona.
along Ijuke Thrasymene (30 X 8 M. in area ; near by,
Hannibal annihilated the lioman army, B.c. 217), to
Perugia {Grand; Palace; Grande Bretagne; Belle
Arti). once Etruscan, now capital of Umbria (19,000
inhab.), with 103 chs. and 50 monasteries. See great
15th-century Cathedral ; S. Pietro de' Casinense, 18
antique columns, choir-stalls designed by Raphael ; S.
Severe, with Raphael's first fresco ; S. Dometiico, tomb
of Pope Benedict XI. ; University (50 c), founded
1320, with large gallery of Umbrian pictures, antiqui-
ties, etc. ; Arch of Augustus, an ancient city-gate ;
Perugino's house; Etruscan cemetery; and colfections
in several palaces. Supei'b views over Tiber valley and
j SIENA. 339
I
Apennines. Assisi, perclied on a high hill, was the
birthplace of St. Francis, and has vast Eranciscan mon-
astery (fee to monk, 1 1.), and its wonderful Gothic
double ch., with frescos by Giotto and Cimabue, and
other treasures. Foligno (23,000 inhab.) has 6 inter-
esting chs. Within 50 years it has suffered 4 severe
earthquakes. The rly. thence to Rome passes Trevi,
Spoleto, and Term (beautiful falls here).
A still louger route is from Florence to Siena (59 M. ;
fares, 101.85 c., 1\\., 5 1.30c.), passing Gertaldo^
where Boccaccio died ; and Por/fjibomi{w\\ei\cQ carriages
to San Gimignano, with enormous walls, interesting
chs., and many works of art.
SiQna. {Jdotel de Sie?ine; Co7iti7iental), city of 23,000
(once 200,000) inhab., celebrated for ancient school of
devotional art, for pretty women, healthy climate, and
purity of language. Sieges and wars innumerable have
distressed it. See vast and superb 13th-century Cathe-
dral, of red, white, and black marbles, abounding in
sculptures and paintings, rose windows, choir-stalls,
etc.; Z/i^/'<2/y (M95), frescos by Pinturicchio and Ra-
phael ; notable Campanile, Baptistery/, and Fellegrinajo
hospital ; S. Domenico, S. Francesco, S. Bernardino, and
other chs. ; Oratory of St. Catherine of Siena ; Institute
of Fine Arts (open 9-3), with valuable Sienese pictures,
including Sodoma's " Descent from the Cross ; " Fa-
lazzo Publico (1293-1309), with many stately and richly
furnished halls ; Campanile, which Leonardo da Vinci
admired; handsome Faldzzo del Cover no (1469), with
30,000 parchments, some dating from 811 ; Loggia di
S. Faolo (1417) ; other palaces of nolle period of archi-
tecture ; the Fonte Gaja and Fonte Branda ; La Lizza^
the promenade; the University; the Opera del Du-
omo, now Cathedral Museum. Excursions to L'Os-
servanza monastery and Belcaro castle.
340 ROMS
Hotels.— Quirinal; Begina; Gr.and; Royal; Excelsior;
Bristol; de Russie; Savoy; Beau-Site; Eden; Palace; Berto-
linVs Splendid; Suisso; Primavera; Victoria; Angletcrre;
Italic; Hassler (Gi-erinaii); Anglo - Americainc; Marini;
Michel; Campidoglio; Laurati; Helvetia; Minerva; Milano;
National. There are also many good pensions suitable for
a long stay.
Permits to visit Vatican and many villas and palaces
obtained from hotel proprietor or guide, or from appointed
officials. Get Baedeker's Central Raly, compact and
practical ; Hare's Walks in Rome; Murray's Rome is good
reading, but bulky; Hacliette's Rome ct ses Eyivirons is
good.
Old travelers advise that mornings at Ronae be given to
the chs. and palaces, and afternoons to the classic ruins
and fragments of the Imperial city.
A visit to Rome is the most interesting experience in
the course of a European tour. No adequate idea of the
city can be gained in less than 10-12 days. If the traveller
can give it but 7-8 days, he should devote the time equally
between the classic remains and the great chs. and
modern institutions. American Ch, of St. Paul, on Via
Nazionale.
Tradition ascribes the founding of Eome to Romulus
and Remus, b.c. 753. It is probably much older. King
Tarquin was expelled, B.C. 509; the republic lasted 480
years, conquering the ' Etruscans, Samnites, Gauls,
Lucanians, etc. B.C. 890 the Gauls took Rome. Then
came wars with Carthage (b.c. 264-341, 219-303, and 149-
146); conquest of Corsica (238), Sicily (241), Spain (B.C. 197-
178), Greece (b.c. 214-205, 200-197, 173-168, and 146), Pergamus
(129), Provence (118), and Gaul (58-50). B.C. 29, Augustus
Csesar became emperor. 47 legions garrisoned the vast
empire. Constantino (324-337 a.d.) made Christianity the
State religion, but removed the capital of the empire to
Constantinople. Rome was sacked by Alaric 410, then by
EOME. 341
0enseric, and finally by Odoacer (476), who annihilated the
Koman empire. In 546 .and 549 the Goth Totila took the
city. Leo the Great (440-461) and Gregory the Great (590-
604) founded the papal power, which was solidified by Pepin
(755) and Charlemagne (800).
Rome, " the Eternal City," the capital of Italy
(430,000 iuhab.), is on the river Tiber, 15^ M. from
its mouth, and near the centre of the broad and desolate
Campagna. The Tiber runs for 3 M. through Rome,
with the low Vatican and Janiculan Hills on the r., and
on the 1. the circle of the Pincian, Quirinal, Viminal,
Esquiline, Cselian, and Aventine Hills, surrounding the
Palatine- and Capitoline Hills (the last 7 are the
famous "Seven Hills"). The space within the walls
is about the same as in Aurelian's time, but f of it is
in gardens and ruins. As in the Augustan age, it is
divided into 14 Rioni, or wards. The ecclesiastical
population is 7,500. Many of the streets are narrow
and unattractive ; but the Corso, Yia Babuino, Ripetta,
and a few others are filled with splendid shops and
animated crowds. There are 7 bridges over the Tiber.
The river often overflowed its banks and made lakes
of the lower squares before embankments were Built.
The walls of Rome are of brick, 14 M. around, and
55 ft. high, and about 1600 years old, though restored
by Theodoric, Belisarius, etc. There are 12 gates now
open, and several closed. On N. is Porta del Popolo,
built in 1561 by Vignola; nest is Pinciana, closed in
1S08 ; then Salara (closed), flanked by towers, where
Alaric entered Rome ; Pia, built from Angelo's designs
in 1564, and breached by Italian batteries in 1870 ;
Nomentana, closed since 1564 ; Tiburtina, long ago
sealed up ; aS'. Lorenzo, built by Honorius, over the
Tivoli road ; the rly. gate ; Porta Maggiore-, part of
Claudian Aq-ieduct Ca.d. 52), made a gate by Aurelian,
342 AQUEDUCTS. ^ PIAZZA DEL POPOLO.
and a fortress by the Coloimas, and commanding the
Palestrina road ; S. Giovanni, built in 1574, over Al-
bano road ; Asinaria (now closed), where Belisarius
inarched into Rome ; Metronia, closed ; Latina (closed
1808), over Via Latina, to Capna ; S. Sebastiano, with
towers and pinnacles, over Appian Way ; S. Paolo, at
foot of Aventine, over road to Ostia. On W. bank of
Tiber, Porta Portese, close to river; 8. Pancrazio, on
Janiculan Hill, stormed by French troops in 1849, and
ruined by their artillery ; Cavalleggieri, close to St.
Peter's, where the army of the Constable de Bourbon
entered in 1527, and the French were repulsed in 1849 ;
Fabbrica (closed) ; Angelica, over route to Monte
Mario; and Castello (closed).
The Aqueducts give a noble idea of Roman archi-
tecture and bold conception, with their vast arcades
running for leagues over the Campagna. The Aqua
Marcia, built e.g. 146 and restored in 1869, brings the
purest of water from the Sabine mts., 56 M. away.
The Aqua Claudia (a.d. 50) leads from near Subiaco,
58-|M. The Aqua Trajana leads from Bracciano, 35
M. The Aqua Virgo, built by Agrippa, for his baths,
leads from a spring 14 M. out on the Campagna, and
breaks out in the Fountain of Trevi. The Aqua Felice
(built by Sixtus V., in 1585) leads from the Alban
mts., 21 M. Rome is thus copiously supplied.
The Piazza del Popolo, the focus at N. gate of
Rome to which the great streets Babuino, Corso, and
Ripetta converge, is adorned with an Egyptian obelisk
(set up here in 1589), fountains, and statues. S. Maria
del Popolo (1099), on haunted burial-place of Nero,
has many prelates' tombs, rich paintings, and a beau-
tiful chapel by Raphael. 2 other high-domed chs.
front on the Piazza. Hence ascend drives to the fa-
vorite Roman park and promenade, on the Pincian Hill
ROME 343
(once LiicuUus's gardens), with grand views. The
Villa Medici (1540) is now seat of French art-aca-
demy and collections (open daily, except Sat.). The
Villa Sorghese, outside Porta del Popolo, has
lovely gardens, with Raphael's villa, and a casino
devoted to sculptures (including Canova's Pauline
Bonaparte) and paintings.
The Piazza di Spagaa contains Bernini's Bar-
caccia fountain; Pius IX's Column of the Immaculate
Conception (with 5 statues); the Palace of Spain
(Spanish embassy) ; and College of Propaganda Fide
(1663). The famous Spanish Staircase ascends hence
Ito SS. Trinita de' Monti (1495), a stately ch. with
many paintings and charming music (by nuns). At
foot of Spanish Stairs, on left, is the house in which
Keats passed the last 4 months of his life, and in
which he died on the night of February 23-24, 1821.
A commemorative tablet is placed on the house on a
llevel with the apartment occupied by Keats and his
friend and devoted nurse, the painter Joseph Severn,
who is buried beside him in the Protestant cemetery.
[This house is now owned by the Keats-Shelley
! Memorial Association, and was purchased by a fund
j contributed by English and Americans. The rooms
I of the Keats apartment have been fitted up by addi-
Itional funds furnished by Americans and are devoted
J in large part to a library of the works, portraits and
'other memorials of Keats and Shelley (open daily,
1 50c.) One of the rooms, furnished by members of
;the New York Stock Exchange, is dedicated to the
J memory of the late Edmund Clarence Stedman.
The Corso is over 1 M. long, on site of Via Fta~
minia. Leaving Piazza del Popolo, it passes Palazzo
Rondanini, with unfinished Pieta by Michael Angelo;
Goethe's house (No. 20); great Hospital of hicur-
doles (founded 1338); Palazzo Ruspoli (1586); S.
344 PALACES ON THE CORaO.
Lorenzo in Lucina (in Piazza to r.), with tomb of N
Poussin; Palazzo Fiano ; Palazzo Teodoli ; S. Sil
vestro in Capite (built 757-67), and English Ch
(1874) in side-street; old Palace of Knights ofMaUa-y
Palazzo Torlonia ; and Palazzo Chigi (1526), with val
uable art-colleclioiis and library. Here opens the
handsome Piazza Colonna, with the Column of Mar-
cus Aurelius, 95 ft. high, adorned witii spiral reliefs o^
Aurelius's wars on tiie Danube. On one side sei
palace with fine Ionic columns from Etruscan Veii
beyond which is Piazza di Monte Cittorio, with Italia^
"Parliament House, in palace built by Bernini. I
front, note obelisk, brought by Augustus from Egyp'
Other two sides of Piazza Colonna are formed by P
lazzi Piombino and Eerajuoli. Earther down Cor&
on little square, is very handsome Palazzo Sciarra-
Colonna, with a fine picture-gallery. Earther on,
opposite Palazzo Simonetti, see ch. of S. Marcello
(a.d. 499), with ancient paintings and Consalvi's
tomb. Next comes (on r.) vast and splendid Palazzo
Doria (open Tues. and Eri. : i 1.), with large arcaded i
courtyard, and gallery of 800 paintings (catalogues in (]
each room), including works of Kaphael, Claude,
Titian, Poussin, etc. Opposite is Palazzo Salviati,
back of which is Colonna Palace. Beyond the Palazzo
Bonaparte (in which died the mother of Napoleon I.)
is the Piazza di Venezia, at end of Corso, on which
fronts the imposing castellated Palazzo di Venezia
(1455), which Pius IV. gave to Venice (now Austrian
embassy). Near by, see Palazzo Torlonia, famous for
its works of art ; S. Marco (a.d. 325 ; rebuilt in 833),
with mosaics and paintings; popular and gorgeous
Jesuit Ch. of Gesu( 1568-77), lined with costly marble,
with columns of lapis lazuli and gilded bronze, many
statues, and tomb of St. Ignatius Loyola. Adjacent
is the former Jesuit monastery, with Loyola's ceil, etc.
ROME. 345
The Tomh of Augustus (i 1."), where Augustus, Mar-
■ cellus (see Virgii), and other emperors and princes
iwere buried, afterwards became a fortress of the
IColonnas, and a ring for bull-fights, and is now but
partly preserved, near the Ripetta,or harbor for barges
and steamers. The Palazzo Borghese (1590) is a
huge and splendid palace, with arcaded courts. The
picture-gallery has been removed to the Casino of the
Villa Borghese, outside of the Porta del Popolo
(daily 11-5, adm. Ifr.; Sun. 10-1, free).. In this
wonderful collection see especially Domenichino's
Sibyl and Diana, Titian's Sacred and Profane Love,
Raphael's Entombment, Madonna, and Uaesar Borgia,
and Correggio's Danae.
The Quirinal Palace (1574-1605), on high and
healthy ground, was a favorite summer-home of the
Popes until 1870, since which the King of Italy has
occupied it. Pius VII. was imprisoned here in 1809
by Napoleon ; and here he died in 1833. See frescos
in Sala Regia; Pauline Chapel, a fac-simile (in form)
of the Sistine ; Audience Hall ; frescos by Raphael,
Overbeck,etc. ; and apartments of Napoleon, Emperor
Francis I., and Kmg Francis II. of Naples. In front
is Piazza di Motile Cavallo, with obelisk, great g:ranite
fountain, and two famous colossal marble groups,
the Horse-Tamers, formerly in Baths of Constantine.
Near Quirinal stands Consultd Palace, now Govern-
ment offices; Palazzo Rospigliosi (1603), with
casino (Wed. ancl Sat. ;15^T, fun~of priceless pic-
tures, including Guido's Aurora; S. Silvestro ch.,
with Domenichino's frescos; mediaeval Milizie and
Conti towers.
Beneath Ch. of Cappuccini tourists visit vaults con-
taining 4,000 desiccated bodies of Capuchin Monks,
many in robes, others used in ghastly decorations, la
346 BATHS OF DIOCLETIAN.
rear of monastery is Villa Ludovisi, along city-^a^
with Juno Ludovisi, Guerciuo's Aurora, etc., in its
embowered casinos. Across Piazza Barherini (see
Bernini's Triton Fountain) is great and splendid Pa-
lazzo Barberini (1624), with noble halls, antique
sculptures and Picture-Gallery (open daily, 12-5),
containing Raphael's Fornarina, the so-called Gui-
do's Beatrice Cenci, etc. In the great hall,- see
Pietro da Cortona's fresco, " The Triumph of Glory."
The library was added to the Vatican Library in 1902.
On Piazza di SS. Apostoli, see ch. (555 ; restored
1872) with monuments byCanova; Valentmo, Odes-
calchi, and Buffo Palaces ; and Palazzo Colonna
(1417), with splendid halls and gardens, antiques.
Gobelins, and several halls filled with fine old j)ictures
(open daily, 11-3 ; names of pictures on frames).
The Baths of Diocletian, near rly.-stat., were
once the largest in Borne, 6,000 ft. around, with 3,000
bathers daily. Built in 4th century by enslaved Chris-
tians. One of the great vaulted halls was made into
Ch. of S. Maria deqli Angeli, by Michael Angelo
(1561). It is 350 ft. long and 96 ft. high, with 16
columns (40 ft. high) of Oriental granite, HoucTon's
statue of St. Bruno, Domenichino's wonderful frescos,
and tombs of Salvator B,osa and Carlo Maratta. Other
halls of the Baths are now military storehouses, etc. ;
as also is Carthusian Monastery, one of whose cloisters
has 100 columns, and was designed by Angelo. A
fragment of the Wall of Servius is in the rly.-stat.
The Patriarchal Basilica of S. Maria Maggiore is
on the Esquiline, between 2 squares, adorned with an
ancient obelisk, and a column 46 ft. high, with bronze
statue of Madonna. First ch. here built by Pope
Liberius (in 352), on ground indicated by miraculous
fall of snow in August, x^resent nave (279 X 57 ft.)
ROME. 347
built in 432-40, with 42 marble Ionic columns (from
Temple of Juuo), and 5tli-ceutury mosaics on archi-
trave, walls, and arch. Impressive fayade, with 5 por-
tals, statue of Philip IV. of Spain, and interesting old
mosaics. See high altar, a porphyry sarcophagus coa-
taining St. Matthew's remains, with canopy on 4
porphyry columns ; Borghese Chapel, with altar of lapis
lazuli and agate, and Madonna painted by St. Lulce ;
Chapel (witli 10 porphyry columns) contaniing manger-
cradle of Christ : tombs of 6 popes ; sumptuous Six-
tine Chapel, and others. The first gold brought from
America was given to the Pope by Perdinand and
Isabella, and used in decorating this ch. Like St.
Peter's, this magnificent temple, so rich in gems and
mosaics, should be visited several times.
Near by, see S. Antonio Abate, the ch. where do-
mestic animals are blessed on third week in Jan. ;
Triumphal Arch of Gallienus (a.d. 262) ; S. JEusehio,
frescoed by Raphael Mengs ; tower of Aqua Claudia;
S. Prassede (8S2; restored in 1450 and 1869), with
9fch-century mosaics, column at which Christ was
scourged, bones of Sts. Praxedis and Pudentiana, and
Chapel of Garden of Paradise, with mosaics on gold;
*S'. Pudenziana, on site where St. Peter lived, with
4th-century mosaics (3,000 martyrs are buried bs-
neath) ; aS'. Martino ai Monti (500), a basilica with 43
antique columns, and frescos by Poussin ; and S.
Pietro in Vincoli (442), built by Empress Eudoxia
to receive St. Peter's chains, with 20 antique Doric
columns, fine bronze doors, and Michael Angelo's
famous statue of Moses.
The Pantheon is the best preserved of the old
Roman buildings. It was built by Augustus's son-in-
law, Agrippa, e.g. 27 i burnt under Titus and Trajan;
restored by Septimus beverus and. Caracalla; cons©-
Ms THE PANTHEON.
Crated by Boniface IV., in 609, as Ch. of *S'. Maria ad
Martyres • deformed by its 2 campaniles, by Bernini;
stripped of ius bronzes by Urban VIII. ; and restored
by Pius IX. Great excavations are now in progress,
revealing Roman works and buildings. The vast
round walls of brick, 20 ft. thick, were once covered
with marble. The portico (now below, but once
above, the square) has 16 huge monolithic columns of
Oriental granite, 39 ft. high, with Corinthian capitals
of famed beauty. Statues of Augustus and Agrippa
once stood here. The circular interior is very impres-
sive ; and is lighted from a place 28 ft. across in the
centre of the dome, open to the sky. This unrivalled
dome is 140 ft. high and 140 ft. across. It was
ascended by Charles V. in 1536. The gilded bronze
roof-tiles were carried to Constantinople in 655 ; and
all the other bronzes were used in making cannon for
the Citadel and the canopy in St. Pete/s, The 7
niches in which statues of the gods stood are now
occupied by altars. Raphael is buried here, near his
betrothed, Cardinal Bibiena's niece. Here also rest
Peruzzi, Giovanni da Udine, Annibale Caracci, and
Perino della Vaga; and here is the tomb of King
Victor Emmanuel of Italy.
The Gothic S. Maria sopra Minerva, back of Pan-
theon, was built in 1285 on site of Temple of Minerva,
and contains tombs of Bembo, Era Angelico, Urban
VII., Paul ly., Leo X., and Clement VII ; Michael
Angelo's Christ, and many choice works of art. Adja-
cent Government building was headquarters of Do-
minican Order, in which Galileo retracted his statement
about the earth's motion. Great library here, 120,000
vols, and 4,500 MSS. Close by, see S. Ignazio (1626),
and Gollegio Romano, in which is famous Kircheriau
Museum of arctiasology (9-3 daily ; 1 L).
ROME. 349
S. Andrea della Valle (1591) has tombs of Pius 11.
and III., and Domenichino's celebrated Evangelists.
Near by, see Palazzo Vicloni, designed by Raphael;
Palazzo Massimi alle Colonne (1536), with statue of
Discus-thrower ; great Palazzo Braschi ; Pasquino
statue ; ruins of Pompey's Theatre ; Chiesa Nuova
(1605), with paintings by Rubens, monastery, and great
library ; Palazzo della Cancelleria, very elegant, de-
signed by Bramante ; h\x.?,j Piazza di Campo dei Fiori ;
vast Palazzo Farnese (Fri., 10-2), built by SangaUo
and Michael Augelo in 1534-45, now belonging to the
French Government, and splendidly frescoed by Anni-
bale Caracci (Triumphs of Ariadne and Bacchus); Pa-
lazzo Spada alia Eegola (1540), with great collections of
antique sculptures and paintings (Mon., Wed., Sat.j
^-3) ; and many other famous chs. and palaces.
The great Piazza Navona has 3 interesting foua.
;ains, and is bounded by the Lancelloti, Ornani, Braschi,
and Pamfili Palaces ; S. Maria delV Anima (1514), Get-
man national ch., with mausoleum of Adrian VI. ; an^
the Spanish national ch. Near it is S. Maria della Pace
(1481), containing Raphael's Sibyls (1514). Pine
cloister (1504) adjacent. S. Agostino (1483 ; re-
stored in 1860) has tomb of Monica, Augustine's
mother, and Raphael's famous Prophet Isaiah (1512).
Adjacent is old monastery. In Piazza S. Apolli?tare,
see ch. 'J552) with Perugino's Madonna, Seminario
Romano school, and handsome Palazzo Altemps. S.
Lnigi de' Frances! (1589), on square with Patrizi,
Madama, and Giustiniani Palaces, has many notable
paintings. Near by is University of the Sapienza,
founded 1303, and now having 4 faculties and a library
(Alessandrina) of 90,000 vols. S. of the Gesii, see many
pakces and chs. ; the Tortoise (^Tartartighe) Pountain
^585); Palazzo Cbif^^zyw^/ (1590), with Albano's and
350 CASTLE OF ST. ANGELO.
Guei'cino's frescoes ; Palazzo 3fattei (1616), with many
statues in court ; Palazzo Cenci, where Beatrice Cenci
lived ; the Ghetto, pulled down in 1887, once the
quarter of the Jews ; Colonnade of Octavia, built by
Augustus in honor of his sister ; Theatre of Marcellus
(b, c. 13), 12hugh arches only remaining ; and palaces
of the Orsini and Savelli.
From the Bridge of St. Angelo to the Vatican. — The
5-arched Ponte S. Angelo was built by Hadrian
(a. d. 136) and named Pons ^lius. 10 colossal angel-
statues by Bernini (1688) adorn its parapets. At the
end rises vast round Castle S. Angelo (fee,l 1.), built
by Hadrian for a mausoleum (with colossal statue on
summit), where the Antonines and other emperors and
their families were buried. Later, it was a fortress;
whicli repelled dreadful sieges, as when the Greeks (in
537) threw down its statues on the assailing Goths;
and a prison, where Beatrice Cenci, Benveuuto Cellini,
Gagliostro, Pope John X. (suffocated here), etc., were
shut up. Very interesting interior, tomb chambers,
inclined planes, cells, papal suite (where Clement VII.
took refuge when Bourbon's troops sacked Rome), and
grand view from top, on which see bronze angel, com-
memorating Gregory the Great's vision of Archangel
Micliael sheathing his sword on this spot, after which
the nlague ceased to devastate Rome (hence name of
castle) A covered way runs hence to the Vatican.
Near by is enormous S. Spirit© Hospital, for sick,
aged, lunatics, and foundlings (open 2-4), accommo-
dating nearly 5,000 persons. The Borgo Nuovo leads
by several chs. and palaces [G-iraud, Ricciardi, etc.), and
the Piazza RnMicMcn, where Raphael died, to the mag-
nificent St. Peter's Square {Piazza di S. Pietro),
1110 X 840 ft. in area, surrounded by imposing Doric
colonnades, built by Bernini in 1667, and composed of
ROME. 351
384 columns and 90 pilasters, each 41| ft. high. On the
roofs are 126 colossal statues of saints. In centre of
square (or rather circle) stands an Obelisk brought by
Caligula from Egyptian lleliopolis, and set up here in
ISl^S": 2l1; e;;ic;li side is a handsome fountain (4(3 ft. high).
Entrance to St. Peter's in front ; to the Vatican, to the
r., at end of colonnade. St. Peter's was built by
Co3i&taatine^(A.D. -826'), on site of Nero's circus, where
St. Peter was martyred, and surrounded by ricli chs.,
convents, etc. Charlemagne and many emperors and
popes were crowned there. In 1450-1620 the present
eh. was built, having among its architects Bramante,
Raphael, Peruzzi, Michael Angelo (from his 72d to 79tli
year), Fontana, and Bernini. It cost over ^60,000^000 ;
took 176 years (the reigns of 28^ popes) to build; and
covers 240,000 sq. ft., being the largest ch. in the world.
Total length, 696 ft.; length of transept, 450 ft.;
length of nave, 619 ft. ; width of nave, 88 ft. (height,
158 ft.) ; height of dome and cross, 470 ft. ; diameter,
141 ft. Fa9ade (finished in 1612), 869 ft. long, 165 ft.
high, crowned bv statues of Christ and Apostles, each
19 ft. high. Portico, 284 X 43 ft. (66 ft. high), with
colossal statues of Constautine and Ciiarleinagne, Giot-
to's mosaic of La NaviceUa, and brazen central doors
(made in 1447). Interior has 80 altars, 148 columns
(mostly from ruins of ancient Rome) ; inlaid marble
pavement (see stones showing length of other great
chs.), brilliantly gilded vaulting upheld by Corinthian
pillars and piers, famous bronze statue of St. Peter
enthroned, many colossal statues of saints, vast in-
scriptions and pictures in mosaic, canopy 95 ft. high
made by Bernini (1638) of bronze from Pantheon, high
altar over tomb of St. Peter (which is approached by
marble stairs, and surrounded by 112 ever-burning
lamDs), wooden throne of St. Peter, many vast and
352 THE VATICAN.
beautiful chapels, tombs of the popes, many paintings
by great masters, and statues by Michael Angelo,
Canova, Thorwaldsen. See tombs of Maria Sobieski,
several Stuart princes, Palestrina, Christina of Sweden,
etc. In Sacristy (1775), see 3 chapels, many rarf
pictures by Giotto, etc. In Treasury, see candelabra
by Cellini and Angelo, Charlemagne's dalmatic, and i
rare jewels. The Crypts are very interesting, with many
chapels, mosaics, carvings, and tombs. 137 popes were
buried in St. Peter's. The Dome (open daily, 8-10),
630 ft. around, rises 308 ft. above the roof (^to which,
142 steps). Look down into ch. from inner gallery.
Stairs between inner and outer dome to Lantern (grand
view over Rome and Campagna), whence you may climb
into ball under cross (large enough to hold 16 persons).
Walk around the ch., outside, to see its vast propor-
tions. At its side and rear, see ancient German ceme-
tery and hospice ; and Palace of the Inquisition ^now
barracks).
The Vatican, the largest palace in the worla, ad-
joins St. Peter's, and has 20 courts and 11,000 halls
and rooms. Pope Symmachus founded first papal
palace here in 498 ; and Charlemagne dwelt therein.
After return from Avignon the popes lived here, desert-
ing the Lateran; and after 1450 the palace was en.
larged by successive popes, from designs by Bramante,
Bernini, etc. Notice singular uniforms of Swiss
guards, designed by Michael Angelo. Ascend splen-
did Scala Regia to Sistine Cliapel, built and named
for Pope Sixtus IV. in 1473, 133 X 45 ft. in area (best
light at morning). Erescos by Signorelli, Botticelli,
€tc. Magnificent ceiling, frescoed by Michael Augelo
((1508-11), Creation, Fall, Deluge, Prophets and
'Sibyls, etc. On altar-wall, 64 ft. wide, Angelo's terri-
ble and incomparable Last Judgment. See Pauline
ROME. 353
ChapeC (1540), Tt'ith other frescos hj Angelo ; Sala
Ducale, frescos by Brill; and Scda Regia, historical
frescos by Vasari, etc. The Loggie are adorned with
Biblical scenes, from Raphael's designs, and beautiful
stucco work. Raphael's Stanze are 4 rooms con-
faiuing the noblest frescos of Raphael (1508-20), the
Disputa, Parnassus, School of Athens, Heliodorus^
Attila, Liberation of St. Peter, etc. The Chapel of
i^icholas V. has spiritual frescos by Pra Angelico
(1447). The Picture-Gallery contains paintings
taken by Napoleon from the Roman chs., and placed
here when brought back from Paris. See Raphael's
Transfiguration and Madonna di Foliguo, Domeni-
chino's St. Jerome, and works of Leonardo, Pra An-
gehco, Titian, Guido, MurUlo, etc. The Museum of
Sculptures (closed Mou. and Tbur., 2-4) contains
1,800 pieces, including Apollo Belvedere, Perseus of
Canova, Laocoou, Tuno, Minerva Medica, Mercury,
Torso, Penelope, Eros, etc. See also porphyry sarcopha-
gus of Empress Helena ; Braccio Nuovo hall, with 16
splendid ancient columns (alabaster, etc.) ; Belvedere
Court; Sola delle Muse, with 16 Carrara-marble col-
umns ; Sala Rotonda, on model of Pantheon ; Hall
of Greek Cross; magnificent Tapestry of Raphael
(1515-16), representing Bibhcal scenes ; Gregorian
Museum of Etruscan Antiquities, in 12 rooms ; Bgyptian
Museum, 10 rooms; Library and Archives, 200,000
vols, and 34,000 MSS. (many of them very precious);
papal ma7iufaGtory of mosaic, where 10,000 colors and
shades of glass are used ; and gardens of Vatican.
Stroll down the riverside Lungara, nearly 1 M.
long, joining the Leonine City (where are St. Peter's
and the Vatican) to Trastevere. Passing under Gate
of the Holy Spirit, ascend to S. Onofrio ch. (1439),
with tombs of Tasso and Mezaofanti A.djaoent moa-
354 TRASTEVERE. — JANICULAN HILL.
astery lias Leonardo's Madonna, Tasso's cell and oak.
Farther down Longara, see fine Palazzo Salviati (now
civic archives) ; Botanical Gardens ; very beautifru-
Villa Farnesina (1506), with Raphael's famous fres-
cos of Psyche and Galatea ; and Palazzo Corsini
(open daily 10-4, adm. 1 fr.), with 9 halls of paint-
ings, 8 of books and MSS., and a garden of rare beauty.
Enter^ by Porta Settimiatia, into Trastevere (from
Trans-Tiber), a quarter whose inhabitants claim to be
direct descendants of the ancient Romans. See 12th-
century basilica of S. Crisogono, near which mosaic-
paved and frescoed house of No. 7 company of old
Koraan (3d-century) fire department ; S. Maria Traste-
vere, built by Calixtus I. (a.d. 217), with 22 antique
columns, mosaics, etc. ; St. Cecilia (a.d. 222), with
mosaics, broad court, portico on African-marble col-
umns, and tomb of St. Ceciliaj whose house stood on
this site.
On the Janiculan Hill over Trastevere, command'
ing a noble panoramic view of Rome and mts., see S.
Pietro in Montorio (1500), on site of St. Peter's
martyrdom, with many ancient paintings; Tempietto
(1502) in court of adjacent monastery, with 16 Doric
columns ; Acqua Paola, a magnificent old fountain,
outlet of Trajan's aqueduct ; S. Pancrazio Gate (fine
views near) ; and Villa Doria Pamfili, a very lovely
park and casino. This trip over the Janiculan Hill
should not be omitted.
Between Trastevere and tlie Ghetto, in the Tiber, is
the Island of S. Bartoloninieo (ancient bridges
'from both shores), with Ch. of S. Bartolommeo (built
A.D. 1000), with 14 ancient columns, on site of a
heathen temple (^sculapius was worshipped here).
The island also has ? large monastey, and ^ fountain-
adorned square. ' "^
KOME. 355
The Capitol is reached by asr lialt stairs ham. Piazza^y^
Ara Cceli, with Egyptiau liows at base, aud marble
Dioscari (Castor and Pollux), or Horse-Tamers, at the
top. See, also, the Trophies oi Marius ; antique statues
of Constautiue and Con? tan?- j and male and female
wolves, caged. The Piczz^jt del Campidoglio, planned
by Michael Angelo ^^d.&. f>ailt hj Paul III. (1536), has
in 'ts centre the famouG and unrivalled antique bronze
equestrian statue of MtirCiS Aurelius, anciently sup-
posed to re^^reaeno Coa^ta'ilme, and placed before the
Lateran from IISJ to 1538. The palaces on three
sides were built or remodelled by Angelo. The Pal-
ace oi t'iiG Coiiser-^^-tors (r. side ; open 10-3) con.
taius halls of busts of celebrated Italians, Latin sculp-
tures, Etruscan museum, great halls with frescos from
Punic and Cimbriau wars, and a gallery of 300-800
paintings. In the Capitoline Museum (1. side ; open
10-3) see Marforio, the colossal river-god, and sarco-
phagi ; hails of brou^es and urns ; ancient marble plan
of llonie ; exquisitely fiue mosaic of Doves of Pliny ;
83 antique busts of emperors ; antique statues of the
philosophers and gods ; and vast number of famous
classic sculptures, including Capitoline Juno, Amazon,
Antinous, rossO"antico Faun, Dying Gladiator, and
Capitoline Venus (in closed cabinet). The Palace
of the Senator, at end of square, was built in 1389,
and adorned by Michael Angelo. It is now the town-
hall. The campanile (1573) commands a fine view,
and contains great bell. Just S. E. is the Tarpeian
Rock. Streets lead from Capitol down into Forum.
High over Capitol (long stairway), on site of Temple
of Jupiter, is 9th-cent. Ch. of ^. Maria in Ara Cceli,
with homely front, and interior adorned with 22 an-
tique columns of assorted si^'.es, many paintings, chapel
of the Bambino, tomb of St. Helena, etc- Adjacent is
356 TRAJAN'S COLUMN.
splendid Franciscan monastery (1251), with two
courts, now a barrack. While hearing the monks
chant in Ara Coeli (1764), Gibbon conceived the
idea of his famous history.
The Mamertine Prison, between Ara Coeli and
Forum (fee, ^1.). was built by the early kings of
Rome, very massively. Here were slain Jugurtha,
Vercingetorix, Joras, and Catiline's allies ; and here St.
Peter was imprisoned (they show pillar to which he
was chained).
Between the Forum and Tiber, see round 7th-cen-
tury Ch. of S. Teodoro ; temple of Janus Quadrifrons^
built in Constantine's time ; 4th-century basilica of S.
Giorgio in Velahro, with antique columns ; Arcu8 Ar-
gent arius, built by merchants of adjacent Forum
Boarium (eattle-market) to Septimius Severus ; mouth
<)f great sewer of Cloaca Maxima; 3d-century ch.
of 8. Maria in Cosmedin, on site and wilh columns ol
King Servius's Temple of Fortune, and with handsome
8th-century campanile; round temple (of Yesta, or
Hercules), surrounded by 19 (once 30) Corinthian
columns; pretty little Ionic temple, now Cli. of S.
Maria Er/iziaca; House of Rienzi (10th century) ; and
Ponte Rotto (Pons jFmilius), with suspension-bridge
filling place of arches swept away in 1598, leading
to Trastevere.
Trajan's Column, 87 ft. high (138 ft. with base
and statue of St. Peter), is surrounded with a spiral
bas-relief, 3 ft. wide and 660 ft. long, on which are 2,50G
human figures, illustrating events of Dacian war, Tra-
jan was buried beneath. Stairs inside to top. Close
by, see remains of vast Basilica Ulpia, built a.d. 111-
114, by ApoUodorus of Damascus, for Trajan, and once
the grandest building in Rome. See, also, chs. of Nome
di Maria (1683) and Loreto 0-5 07). Near by are frag-
EOME. 357
ments of Forum of Augustus, of "wliicli a massive wall,
450 ft. long, and 3 columns of Temple of Mars JJltor
J remain. The Academy of St. Luke (open 9-3) contains
I statuary by Canova and Thorwaldsen, and many fine
' old paintings, including veiled pictures by Titian, etc.
This is a choice collection. Near by is an imposing
I fragment oiNervas Forum.
Tlie Palace of the Caesars consists of enormous
ruins on the Palatine, the original site of early Rome,
where dwelt Evander, Romulus, Catiline, Cicero, Au-
gustus, Tiberius, Vespasian, Odoacer, Theodoric, etc.
Fifty years ago the Palatine was a hill of vineyards,,
with convents, but the emperors of Russia and France-
began excavations, which Italy has continued (open
daily, adm. 1 f r. ; Sun. free) . Enter from Forum,
and see Museum, with articles found lie re ; foundations
of Caligula's palace; parts of Tiberius' s palace; hand-
some private house of Livia, with mural paintings ; Fla-
vian palace, built by Vespasian; platform of Temple
of Jupiter Victor; colonnades; stairs hewn in rock;
school-house; and other very interesting ruins. (Get
local guide.)
The Forum Romanum was a marshy space be.
tween the Capitol and Palatine, the battle-ground of
Sabines and Romans, afterwards the centre of their state,
embellished with many splendid temples and statues, the
scene of many famous events, and seat of the councils-
which ruled the world. After the fall of Rome, some
of the temples became chs. and others were torn down
for buildhig materials ; and the troops who came to the
aid of Hildebraiid, in the 11th century, completed the
destruction. Over this rubbish-heaped Campo Vaccina-
(cow-pasture), fortresses and houses arose. In 1536,
Paul III. began to clear the gi ound, but little was done
uatil 1803. Since 1871 extensive works have been cai>
358 I <UtUM ROMANUM.
ried on. The original level was 30 ft. below the pres-
ent. The remains of the Tabularium (built B.C. 87),
vast vaults for archives and 3,000 bronze tables of de-
crees and records, now serve as foundations for Palace
of the Senator. See its ponderous arcades and gallery,
and view over Forum. The marble Arch of Septimius
Severus is covered with sculptures of the victories of
Septimius, and his sons Caracalla and Geta, over the
Parthians and Arabians. Erected in 203, it became a.
medigeval castle ; was excavated in 1808. Back of it are
remains of Temple of Concord (b.c. 866, restored by
Tiberius), where the Senate sometimes met, and Cicero
impeached Catiline. The tali white columns near by
pertained to the Temple of Vespasian (once of Jupiter
Tonans), built by Domitian and restored by Septimius
and Caracalla. To the W. stand the Schola 'Xantha,th.e ■
home of the official scribes, and the Colonnade of the
Twelve Gods (built a.d. 367, by an anti-Christian prse-
f ect) . 8 granite Ionic columns in front of Vespasian's
Temple, pertained to Temple of Saturn. Near by
were the orators' tribunes {rostra), often used by
Cicero. Two marble slabs from the rostra have beau-
tiful reliefs. Remains of the tonih of Romulus with
early Latin inscriptions were unearthed in 1899. The
Column of Phocas was erected in 608, in honor of a
Greek emperor. Near by, see Basilica Julia, 333 by
149 ft., built by Csesar, with parts of its many pillars
remaining. 3 Parian-marble columns still stand on
site of splendid Temple of Castor and Pollux (built
B.C. 484 ; rebuilt a.d. 6). On E. are foundations of Tem-
ple of CcBsar, where Mark Antony delivered his
funeral oration. The Temple of Faustina (a.d. 141),
with 10 marble columns, encloses the ch. of S. Lor-
enzo in Miranda. An ancient burial vault was dis-
covered here in 1902. Numerous vaulted passages
beneath tho pavement of the Forum were discov-
ered during the excavations in 1901. Seventh
ROME, 359
century ch. of S. Adriano is on site of Curia Hostilia.
The Via Sacra, leading from S. gate of Rome to Cap-
itol, lies 30 ft. below the road. The circular Temple of
Uomulus is now the ch. of SS. Cosmo and Damian, with
porpli3''ry columus, bronze doors, 6th-century mosaics,
and tombs of saints. The Basilica of Comtariiine, origi-
nally 300 by 264 ft. in area, has 3 stupendous arches
remaining (beautiful view from top). Back of ch. qIS.
Francesca Romana (iuterestiog tombs and relics) are
ruins of once superb Temple of Venus and Rome, de-
signed by Hadrian, who would be architect as well as
emperor (a.d. 135). The marble Triumphal Arch of
Titus, small, but very interesting and graceful, com-
memorates the victories over tlie Jews, a.d. 70. It was
a mediasval fortress of the Frangipani. See the bas-
reliefs. Hence the Sacred Way descends to the vast
building named, from colossal statue of Nero, tlie Colos-
seum, Rome's chief marvel. It was founded by Ves-
pasian and finished by Titus, Jewish captives doing the
work (a.d. 80) ; 10,000 men and 5,000 beasts were slain
at its inauguration ; the scene of countless fights of
gladiators and wild beasts; and of magnificent celebra-
tion of 1000th anniversary of Rome's foundation (a.d.
248) ; afterwards fortress of Frangipani, Annibaldi,
etc. ; in 14th and 15th centuries a quarry, its fine ma-
sonry being used to build Farnese, Cancelleria, S. Mar-
co, and other vast palaces ; about 1750 redeemed, and
consecrated to the Passion of Christ. It is an ellipse, \
M. around and 156 ft. high, with arena 279 by 174 ft.
in area, which could be fiooded for naval combats :
50,000 spectators could be accommodatecL Duly ^ of
the Colosseum now stands Yisit it by moonlight also.
The adjacent Arch of Constantine, the most beau-
tiful in Rome, commemorates the victory over Max-
entius (311), the Pagan emperor, and stands on the
360 BATHS OF TITUS. — S. STEFANO ROTONDO.
Triumphal Way. The best of the many sculptures were
taken from an older monument of Trajan. Pius YII.
unburied this arch in 1804. Close by, see remams of
sumptuous Baths of Titus (| fr.), on the Esquiline,
on part of site of Nero's Golden House. Beautiful mu-
ral paintings here, which suggested B-aphael's frescos in
Vatican loggie. S. Clemente, the oldest ch. in Rome,
is midway between the Colosseum and Lateran. Up-
per ch. is a basilica, with 16 antique columns, old mo-
saics, and rich canopy. The lower ch., built before 392,
and damaged by Guiscard's Norman army (1084), has
been excavated since 1858. It has 16 antique columns
and 5th-c.entury frescos (very interesting). Still far-
ther down are remains of St. Clement's (4th pope)
house, discovered in 1867. (See Ilachettes guide-
book.) Near by, on lonely Celian Hill, see ch. of SS.
Quatro Coronati, to 4 saints martyred by Diocletian,
■ — very ancient, destroyed by Guiscard's Normans, and
restored in 1111 ; S. Stefano Rotondo, the largest
circular ch. in existence, built by Simplicius in 470
with 56 columns and many frescos of terrible mar
tyrdoms ; La Navicella, rebuilt in 817, with manj
columns of granite and porphyry, and 9th-century mosa.
ics ; 5th-century SS. Giovanni e Paolo, with Passionist
monastery and garden ; S. Gtregorio (575), 16 antique
columns, part of St. Gregory's house, a bit of Servian
Wall, and 3 very interesting detached chapels.
The broad Piazza of S. Giovanni in Lateratio has a
red-granite obelisk 104 ft. high (with pedestal, 153 ft.),
erected at Thebes, B.C. 1560 ; brought to Pome by
Constaiitine, a.d. 357; and set up here in 1587. On
one side. Women's Hospital; opposite which see Scala
Santa, 28 marble steps (brought to Rome by Empresf
Helena, in 326), by which Christ is said to have entered
Pilate's palace, at Jerus^lem.^—Xhey are ascended on
ROME. 361
the knees only, and lead to very sacred chapel (1278).
Here, alongside wall of Rome, and overlookmg Cam-
pagna and mts., stands venerable basilica of S. Giovanni
in Lateran, on whose front is inscribed Omnium urbis
ei orbis eccledarum mater et caput. This is the Pope's
cb. as Bishop of Rome ; at St. Peter's he is sovereign
Pontiff of the world. Five ecumenical councils werp
held here, between 1123 and 1513. Constantine built
first ch. here, on site of palace of Laterani family.
Present ch. built 1360-1734. Papade with colossal
statues, bronze doors, statue of Constantine. Inte-
vior has grand nave, with 4 aisles, inlaid pavement,
inassive pillars with 21 statues of Prophets and Apos-
tles, bronze statue of Martin Y., Altar of the Sacrament
(with antique columns of gilded bronze), many fine old
mosaics, Giotto's fresco of Pope Boniface VIII., mag-
nificent Corsini Chapel (inlaid with precious stones),
Torlonia Chapel (in white marble and gold), Donatel-
Io*s wooden statue of St. John the Baptist, Bernini's
Pietk, and the great Papal Altar, over which is a canopy
containing heads of Sts. Peter and Paul. Beautiful
13th-century monastery court adjacent ; also octagonal
Baptistery/, in which it is said that Constantine was
baptized, with 8 porphyry columns, basalt font, bronze
doors (1196), 7th-century mosaics, and 3 oratories
Inbuilt in 461 and 640). In adjacent Lateran Palace
the popes iwelt for a thousand years (to 1377). Pres-
ent palace, ouilt in 1586; and in 1843 converted into
vast and interesting museum (open 9-4) of antique
sculptures. Christian sarcophagi and inscriptions (irom
catacombs), and picture-gallery filling 8 rooms, with
remarkable Latin mosaics.
S^ Croce in Gerusalemme, among lonely iields
he+weeH. Aqua Claudia and Roman wall, is a 4th-cen-
tury basilica, founded by Empress Helena, on earth
362 BATHS OF CARACALLA.
brought from Jerusalem, witli mosaics, frescos, tombs
of saints, and the Inscription on tlie Cross. Cistercian
monastery adjacent, with famous library. Also, ruins
of Castremia?i Amphitheatre, etc. To N., ruins of 3d-
century decagonal Temple of Minerva Medica, once rich
in statues ; aud near rly., ^iS*. Bibiana (470), with an-
tique columns inside. In casino of Villa Massimo,
on Piazza Lateran, rich modern frescos from Dante,
Tasso, and Ariosto, by Overbeck, Sclmorr, etc. Villa
Wolkonsky near by.
The marble-clad brick Pyramid of Cestius, at Porta
S. Paolo, is 116 ft. high (base, 98 ft. square), with
chamber 19 X 13 ft., where the tribune Cains Cestius
•was buried (b.c. 30). Close by are the Protestant
Cemeteries, with graves of Keats, Severn, etc., and of
the heart of Shelley. See, across meadows, the lonely
Monte Testaccio, 164 ft. high, composed entirely of
broken pottery, crowned by across (grand view hence),
and cut into by wine-sellers' grottos. To the N., see
ancient Latin Emporium, and quays of Marmorata ; also
3 chs. on Aventine : S. Sabina, built in 425, in basilica
form, with 24 antique Corinthian columns of Parian
marble, and open roof, and adjacent Dominican mon-
astery (beautiful cloisters) ; 8. Alessio, very ancient,
restored in 1317, with Hieronymite m.onastery adjoin-
ing ; and S. Maria Aventina, with tombs of Xnights of
Malta, whose priory is close by.
The Baths of 'Caracalla' (fee, 1 1.), nearly 1_M.
from Arcli of Constantine (by 8. Balbina, a very ancient
ch., with open roof), still show remains of their an-
cient vastness and magnificence. They cover an area
1,080 ft. square, and could accommodate 1,600 bathers.
Oaracalla was the founder (a.d. 312). Many famous
sfetues were discovered hei-e. SdI©'' did view from roof.
Near by, seer ch. of SS. Nereo ed Achilleo, built by
THE APPIAN WAY. 363
Leo Hi. in 300, on site of Temple of Isis, in basilica
style ; S. Sisto, and convent of S. Domenif.o ; very
ancient S. Cesareo ; and," near tlie closed Porta Latina,
old clis. of S. Gioiianni, and a Latin tomb. Beyond
Tomb of the Sclpios (^ fr.) and Columbaria, the street
passes the mutilated Arch of Brusus (b.c. 8), and enters
the Appian Way at S. Sebastian Gate.
The Appian "Way (called Regina Viaruni) was
begun E.G. 312 by Appius Claudius, and ran to Capua,
and afterwards to Brindisi, forming main route to S,
Italy, Greece, and Egypt. By order of Pius IX. it.
was excavated as far as Fratocchie, 11 M. ont, on rly.
to Albano. Beautiful views all along, of Campagna,
aqueducts, and Alban Mts. Beyond Domine quo
Vadis ch., a path leads off to Temple of Deus Rediculus,
a handsome little building of Hadrian's era ; the Grotto
of Egeria ; a red-brick 2d- century tomb, or temple,
now the ch. of S. JJrbano (with frescos of a.d. 1011) ;
and the tombs on the Via Latina. On Yia Appia are
Catacombs of S, Calixtus (fee, 1-2 1.), with tombs
of St, Cecilia and many 2d and 3d century popes and
martyrs, and 7th-century Byzantine paintings. Gata-
combs of Domitilla and St. Pratextatus near by. \ M.
beyond is very ancient S. Sebastiano ch., under which
are extensive catacombs (1 1.). Farther on see remains
of Circus of Maxentius, built in 311, 1,590 ft. long,
with seats for 18,000 people. On hill beyond stands
the famous Tomb of Ccecilia Metella, round, 65 ft. in
diameter, and in 13th century a tower of now vanished
castle of the Gaetani. Beyond, the Way is bordered by
ancient tombs on either side, and the old Latin pavement
is the road-bed. Noble views of the mts. and the far
prolonged arches of Aqua Marcia and Aqua Claudia. 6
M. out is Casale Rotondo, a large tomb ; and it is 8 M.
thence to Albano. Near 4th milestone is Tomb of
364: THE CAMPAGNA.
Beneca (so called), near site ot Seneca's housb, and also
near ruins of beautiful little Temple of Jupiter, where
many Cliristians suiFered martyrdom. 3 tumuli, 1 M.
beyond, are thought; to be tlie tombs of the Horatii and
Curiatii. At 9th nulestone are ponderous brick ruins of
villa and tomb of Emperor Gallienus.
Excursions near Rome. — The Campagna is a
great rolhng plain of volcanic earth, between the sea
and the Sabine Mts,, with shallow ravines and low steep
hills. Pools of water collect here in winter, and stag-
nate in summer, giving forth the terrible malaria which
makes Rome's vicinity so unhealthy. But every tourist
should see Italy in her fair summer attire ; and an
August sojourn may be made at Rome with safety, by
taking due precautions. Trolley cars now run from
Rome to Frascati, Albano, and Genzano.
The patriarchal and pilgrimage ch. of S. Lorenzo fu-
ori le Mura, f M. beyond Porta di S. Lorenzo, on tomb
of St. Lawrence, was founded by Constantine ; rebuilt
in 578 ; remodelled in 1216 ; and restored in 1864-70.
See bronze statue of St. Lawrence, in square ; fapade
with frescos of founders ; 10th-century mosaic pave-
ment ; 22 antique Ionic columns of nave, upholding
open roof; lower and older ch., with 12 noble Corin-
thian columns of pavonazzetto ; violet-marble columns
in presbytery ; silver shrine with remains of St. Law-
tence ; beautiful 13th-century cloister adjacent. Great
cemetery near. In vestibule Pius IX. is buried. The
basilica of S. Agnese fuori le Mura, beyond the
Patrizi and Torlonia villas, 1^ M. outside Porta Pia,
was built by Constantine, over St. Agnes's tomb, and
restored in 625 and 1856. Beyond court, 45 marble
steps lead down to the cli., with mosaics, inlaid altars,
16 precious antique columns, and tabernacle (with por.
phyry columns) over alabaster statue of St. Agnes.
ROME. 365
Adjacent is S. Costanza, built by Constantine as
tomb of his daughter Constantia, with dome resting
on 24 columns of granite, porphyry sarcophagus of
Constantia, and 4th century mosaics.
S. Paolo fuori le Mura, li M. from Porta S.
Paolo (omnibus every half hour from Palazzo
Venezia), on Ostian road, alongside the Tiber, is on
site of a deeply venerated church built by Constan-
tine, over St. Paul's tomb, and magnificently en-
riched and enlarged by emperors and popes, but
burnt in 1823. Present church, consecrated in 1854,
of valuable materials and imposing proportions, is
390 X 195 ft. in area, and 75 ft. high (inside). Won-
derfully impressive nave, and four aisles, with 80
enormous Simplon-granite columns, whose bases and
capitals are of marble ; long lines of mosaic portraits
of all the popes; and stained-glass windows. See
alabaster columns given by Viceroy of Egypt ;
malachite altars, given by the Czar; 5th century
mosaics; splendid altar-canopy (1285); and rich
chapels. Adjacent is beautiful (now secularized)
Benedictine cloister (1220), surrounding orange-
grove. 2 M. hence is S. Sebastiano (p. 363); and
out on Via Ardeatina (1^-2 M.) are abbey and three
chs. (393-1599) of Tre Fontane, where St. Paul was
beheaded.
The handsome Ponte Molle, 1-^ M. (dull road)
from Porta del Popolo, was rebuilt in 1815 on site of
Mil vian Bridge, built B.C. 109, where Maxentius was
slain, after being defeated by Constantine (a.d. 312),
2 M. out is Aqua Acetosa, a famous old mineral-
spring, beyond the once sumptuous villa which Vig-
nola built for Pope Julius III. Beyond Ponte Molle
are the far-viewing rock-tombs of the Kasones, the
Villa of Livia, and the famous Valley of Poussin.
Monte Mario, 1^ M. from Porta Angelica, is a bold
hill (road to top), 476ft. high, commanding superb
366 TORRE DEI SCHIAVI. — ALBANO.
view of Rome, the Campagiia, tlie mfs., and tlie sea.
There are several villas here, amoiip: which see Villa
Mellini, famed for its prospect, and Villa Madama, de-
signed by Raphael, and owned in turn by Clement YII.,
the Farnese family, and the King of Naples. See
loggia, with frescos by Giulio Romano.
The Via Nomenlana leads from Porta Pia, 2 M.,
from which it crosses the Anio by an ancient bridge.
1-| M. beyond is the famous Mons Sacer; and the
road is prolonged to the battle-field of Mentana (1867).
The Via Pranestina leads from Porta Maggiore to
(2 M.) the Torre dei Schiavi, a favorite resort of
artists. It is a large group of very obscure ruins, once
pertaining to the villa of Gordian, and in Middle Ages
used for a ch. and a castle. 3 M. from Porta Mag-
giore, on Via Labicana, are the ruins of the mausoleum
of the Empress Helena (now a ch.).
The Via Campana runs along the Tiber, from Porta
i'ortese to (5 M.) the Vigna Ceccarelli, with scanty
remains of temple and hall of ancient agricultural
brotherhood of the Fratres Arvales, founded by the
foster-brothers of Romulus, to invoke the Goddess of
Plenty. Near by, see well-preserved Catacombs of S.
Qenerosa ; also (near MagUana stat.), chateau of La
Magliana, oace frescoed by Raphael.
The Via Salara leads from the Salarian Gate to
(2:fM.) the ancient stone bridge over the Anio, de-
stroyed by the Goths, rebuilt by Narses, and blown up
in 1867. On far- viewing height close by stood Antem-
nse, a town destroyed by Romulus ; and 4 M. beyond,
near Castel Giubileo (built by Boniface YIII. in 1300),
ai'e the scanty ruins of Pidenae.
Albano {Hotel de la Poste ; Ristorante Salus-
tri) is 18 miles from Rome (1 hr. ; fares, 3 1. 90 c, '
3 1. 10 c, 1 1. 90 c), by rly. across Carapagna, crossing
ITALY. 367
lines of aqueducts and Via Latina. Climb of f lir.
(2^ M.) from stat. to Albauo (omnibus, -11.). Omni-
buses run twice daily from Rome to Albano {2^ hrs.;
2^ 1.). You can also drive hither over A'ppian Way.
At Albano were Fompey's Villa, Domitian's great
Albanum, the vineyards whose wine Horace praised,
and the mediaeval fortress of the Savelli. It has manv
Roman relics, especially in the Villa Doria (open to
visitors). The high situation of Albano (1,250 ft.) and
its pure air make it a favorite summer-resort. The
town is famous for handsome women. Beyond the
Villa Barberini is the large papal palace of Castel
Gandolfo, still pertaining to the Pope. Beautiful
view from Capuchin Monastery. Good roads on.
upper and lower galleries on E. of Lake Albano, an
extinct crater, shaded with trees, and one of the love-
liest of Italian lakes. The Romans (b.c. 397) cut a
tunnel (still remaining) through the rock, and partly
drained it, in obedience to an oracle. Alba Longa was
near by. A magnificent arcaded stone viaduct, 1,020 ft.
long and 192 ft. high (built 1846-63), crosses the glen
from Albano to ancient Ariccia (^Martorelli^, a town
and palace pertaining to the Chigi family. Roads lead
through noble old forests to Rocca di Papa, a village
near reputed camp of Hannibal. ThQ Via Tnumphalis
ascends to crest of Monte Cavo (3,130 ft. high ; very
broad view), where are remains of great Temple of
Jupiter Latiaris, the chief shrine of the Latin League
(Passionist monastery founded here in 1783). This
region is described by Yirgil in last books of j^neid,
where Juno, from Monte Cavo, observes the Latin ar-d
Roman armies. Beautiful scenery toward Genzano
{Torti), 3 M. from Albano, whence one overlooks
the crystalline Lake ofN&mi, 2| M. around, and 300 ft.
deepj in an extinct crater. Ovid speaks of this lako.
868 FRASCATI. - TIVOLI.
which was called the Mirror of Diana, from a temple
of the goddess on its shore. Here Tiberius had a
splendid vessel afloat.
Frascati {Frascati; Pajinelli), 15 M. by ry. from
Rome (fares, 2 1. 70 c, 2 1. 15 c, 1 1. 30 c), is on a
foot-hill of the Alban Mts., in a yery healthy
climate. It has many fine old 16th century villas,
among which see AIdohra7idini, with fine fountains
and oak groves ; Falconieri (1550), with many
pictures and pretty gardens ; Ruffinella, now owned
by Prince Lancelotti ; Mondragone, now a Jesuits'
school ; and Piccolomini, where Baronius lived.
A shaded road leads hence to Tusculum, founded
by Ulysses's son Selegonus, the birthplace of Cato,
and favorite residence of Cicero. It held out
valiantly against Hannibal, but was destroyed by a
papal Roman army in 1191. See Roman amphi-
theatre, recently excavated Villa of Cicero, reser-
voir, Camaldoli Convent, and lofty Citadel (2,218
ft. high), with magnificent view. 3 M. distant,
by a forest-road, is Grotta Ferrata, a Greek
Basilian monastery (founded 1002), with famous
frescos by Domenichino. Hence a guide will lead
in 1-1 hrs. to Rocca.di Papa and Monte Cavo. 4^ M.
distant is Marino, an old Orsini fortress on Alban
Mts., captured in 1424 (and still held) by the
Colonnas. Good pictures in the three chs. Three
M. hence is rly. stat., 35 min. (2 1., H 1., 1 1.)
from Rome. Pleasant road also to Castel Gandolfo
and Alban o.
Tivoli (Plebiscito; Regina; Sihilla) is 25 M. from
llome by ry. (ret., 4 1. 55 c, 3 1. 20 c, 2 1. 5c.) or car-
riage (1-horse, 151. ; 2-horse, 201.), passing near Qrotto
of Cervara. This was the ancient Tibur, founded 5
centuries before Rome, and conquered by Camillus, ,
B.C. 380. Here dwelt Maecenas, Horace, Propertius I
and Catullus ; and here Zenobia passed her captivity, j
ITALY. 369
Augustus, Hadrian, and other emperors and nobles
had palaces here. It is now a huddled town of 7,000
inhab. 1 M. out is Hadrian's Villa (get permit at
Palazzo Braschi, Rome), once the finest in the world,
with many imposing buildings, covering several square
M. It was destroyed by Totila's Goths, and only the
most fragmentary ruins remain. The beautiful circular
Corinthian Temple of the Sibyl (probably dedicated
to Hercules or Yesta) and the oblong Ionic temple
adjacent (now eh. of S, Giorgio) command a fine view
of the Falls. Path leads to Grotto of Neptune and
Sirens' Grotto. The chief fall is 830 ft. high; tha
smaller falls are Le Cascatelle. Many other fine bits of
scenery here, and Roman ruins ; also. Villa Braschi^
overlooking Campagna, and Villa d' Este (1549), with
very lovely gardens and ancient frescos. Many
charming excursions hence among Sabine Mts. Monte
Gennaro (4,800 ft.) may be ascended in 6 hrs. by
bridle path. It is 11|- M. from Tivoli to Valley of
Licenza. site of Horace's Sabinum farm. 23 Mo
(5 hrs.) up Anio Valley is Subiaco {La Pernice), a
mediaeval castle-crowned tov/n, built on remains of
Nero's villa, and with very famous monastries of S.
Scolastica and S. Benedetto, a vast group of cloisters
on site where St. Benedict lived.
Palestrina, 22 M. from Rome (daily omnibus), 12
from Frascati, 4^ from Vaimontone stat., was the
ancient Prceneste; conquered by Camillus (b.c. 380);
headquarters of Marius; favorite Roman summer-
resort (see Horace); scene of terrible wars between
Colonnas and popes in Middle Ages; and since 1630
the property of the Barberini. See Cyclopean walls,
immense but shapeless Roman ruins, Barberini
Palace, Colonna fortress (1322), and vast view over
Campagna.
Bracciano (Piva), 24 M. from Rome (omnibus
alternate days, in 6 hrs. ; 4 1.), has a wonderful old
370 OSTIA. — NAPLES.
Gothic castle of lava, which Sir Walter Scott
greatly admired. It was built by the Orsini, and
is now owned by Odescalchi. Fine view from
tower. Adjacent lake Is 20 miles around, and
abounds in eels.
Ostia, 14 M, from Rome, near mouth of Tiber,
once had 80,000 inhab., but now has scarcely 100.
The Saracens were terribly defeated here about a.d.
850. See S. Aurea Episcopal Palace, and tombs,
temples and baths of adjacent ruined city and seaport
of classic age. 2 M. hence is very interesting Castel
Fusano, a Chigi stronghold against pirates, 1^ M.
from sea, in great pme-forest.
There are many other deeply interesting excursions
near Rome. See Hare's Days Near Rome, Baede-
ker's Central Italy, Murray, Haehette or Cook.
Naples, Baia, Pompeii, Sorrento, Capri.
Express trains, Rom^e to Naples, 5|- hrs, (fares,
84J1., 23^1.); ordinary trains, 9 hrs. (fares lower).
Some travellers go from Rome to Civita Vecchia by
rly., and thence by steamer, for the sake of the lovely «
view entering the Bay of Naples. ■
Paris to Naples, via Turin, Florence and Rome, in
53 hrs. (fares, 246i fr., 203 fr. 10 c).
Marseilles to Naples oy sea, 181 fr., 128 fr. Naples
is a convenient point of departure for Mediterranean
ports. Steamships sail frequently for Alexandria,
Tunis, Cagliari, Messina, Palermo, Genoa, Leghorn,
and Marseilles.
Hotels : Bertolini''s; Parker^s; Bristol; Excelsior;
MacpJierson's ; Eden ; Metropole ; du Vesuve ; de
Londres ; Grand ; des Etrangers ; Splendid ; Santa
Lucia; Grande Bretagne; Riviera; Victoria; Savoy.
Baggage is sometimes examined on arriving ar
Naples, by excise officers, but formalities are slight.
NAPLES. 371
Conveyances. — Hotel omnibus, 1^1. ; public omni-
bus, 20 c. Baggage, 20 c. a piece. 2-horse cab, 1 1.
40 c. ; 1-horse cab, 70 c. Smallboats from steamship
to shore, 1 1. each person, 1^ with usual baggage. Pay
no attention to extortionate demands, with which
boatmen usually begin. Beware of beggars and
people who offer their services.
A rly. runs N.-E. (124 M. ; 5-6 hrs.) from Naples
across Italy, by Benevento, to Foggia, on the Adri-
atic, connecting there with rly. to Brindisi and
Taranto, on S., and Ancona and N. Italy, ^j this
route it is 19-20 hrs. to Bologna.
The rly. from Rome to JSlaples passes Velletri, an
ancient Volscian town (16,500 inhab.), with fine old
Cathedral; Sgurgola, 4^- M. from Anagni, a famous
old papal town; Ferentino stat.,3 M. from Ferentino,
a venerable Hernician hill-town, with castle, cathedral
and huge polygonal walls; Frosinone sta.t.,2i M. from
beautifully situated hill-town oi B rosiiione, and 9-10
M. from very curious old Alatri, with cyclopean walls;
Ceprano stat., 2|- M. from Ceprano, and the stat. for
Falls of the Liris and Cicero's Villa ; Aquino, birth-
place of Emperor Pescennius Niger, Juvenal, and
Thomas Aquinas ; Cassino (or S. Germano), a busy
town, with Koman amphitheatre, Varro's Villa, and
tombs (a climb of 1^ hr. leads to the world-renowned
and magnificent Benedictine monastery of Monte
Cassino, with hospitable monks and peerless views) ;
Teano, with great castle and Roman remains ; Capua,
a town of 14,000 inhab., in broad plain of Campania
Felice, with noble basilica, fortress, triumphal arch,
ancient chs. ; and 8. Maria, on site of ancient Capua,
with amphitheatre for 100,000 persons, and other
Roman ruins. The rly. runs thence over the vast and
populous plain of the Terra di Lavoro, to Naples.
Naples is a city of 500,000 inhab., with little of
architectural or antiquarian interest, but blest with a
372 NAPLES. — CHIAJA.
swperb situation, mild climate, and beautiful enviro^is.
It is built on the amphitheatrical slopes of hills, shelter-
ing it from the N. wind, and nearly bisected bj the
abrupt ridge ofS. Elmo and Pizzofaleone. Its view
includes a semicircle of azure sea, the villages around
the bay, and many picturesque hills. The busy and
crowded Via Roma, still popularly called by its old
name of Via Toledo, runs N. 1|' M. from Palazzo
Reale, near the harbor. The vast and interesting
National Museum (open daily, 9-3, 11., children,
■| 1. ; no fees allowed ; free, Sunday, 10-1), is in old
Spanish cavalry-barracks (1586), occupied by Univer.
sity, 1615-1780. There is a good handbook. See
1,600 ancient mural paintings, from .Pompeii, etc. ;
epigraphic collection ; long range of rooms with Egyp.
tian and Etruscan antiquities ; finest existing collection
of ancient bronzes, including Dancing Faun, Narcissus,
Mercury, Sleeping Eaun, and bust of Seneca ; 18,000
small bronze objects from Pompeii, etc. ; immense collec-
tions of ancient glass, terra-cotta, Cumaean antiquities,
numismatic objects ; many marble and bronze statues,
including Earnese Bull (restored by Michael Angelo),
Earuese Hercules, Venus, Wounded Gladiator, Ocean,
Elora, Nile, Earnese Juno, jEschines, Balbus ; famous
mosaics of Battle of Issus and Triumph of Bacchus ;
great collection of papyri MSS., from Herculanenm ;
7 rooms full of Greek and Italian vases ; and gems,
jewels, food, and silver plate from Pompeii. The Pic-
ture Gallery has 800 paintings, Neapolitan, Tuscan,
Bolognese, lloman, Venetian, German, and Elemish,
including several by Raphael, Titian, and Correggio.
The Library (open 9-3) has 200,000 vols., 4,000
MSS., and many valuable autographs.
The Chiaja, seat of chief hotels for foreigners, is a
narrow strip between the S. Elmo and Posihppo ridges
NAPLES. 373-
and tha harbor, with pretty parks (music at evening)
along waterside. On E., projecting into the sea, is the
black and gloomy Castel dell' Ovo (1154), often
besieged, and now a prison. Thence Strada S. Lucia
leads to Arsenal, through busy and interesting scenes.
Overhead is hill of Pizzofalcone, over which one may
pass, by the lion-guarded Victory Column of the martyrs
for liberty, and the Miranda Palace, to the centre of
the city.
The Palazzo Reale (its porter gives permits to al!
the Neapolitan royal palaces) was built in 1600, by
order of Philip III. of Spain, and rebuilt in 1837-4!l. It
is 554 ft. long, with grand staircase, throne-room, and
many fine old paintings and carvings, and view of harboi
from garden. Opposite, across handsome Piazza del
Plebiscito, is S. Francesco di Paola, a copy of Roman
Pantheon, with 80 marble Corinthian columns support-
ing dome, altar covered with jasper and lapis lazuli, and
many modern pictures. Near by, see Palace of Prince
of Salerno ( official residence ) , Eoresteria Palace, and
Canova's equestrian statues of the Bourbons, Charles
III. and Perdinaid I. Alongside Palazzo Reale is
Theatre of S. Carlo (1737), one of the largest in tlie
world. See public scribes in arcades ; and statues of
Horse-Tamers, before palace-gardens. The great Cas-
tel Nuovo, built by Charles of Anjou in 1283, and
enlarged in 1442, 1546, and 1735, was the home of
the Anjou and Aragon sovereigns, and the Spanish
viceroys. See beautiful Triumphal Arch (1470), armory,
and ch. of S. Sebastiano, with very famous picture.
Close by, see Arsenal (1577) ; Porto Militare, with
Italian iron-clads ; busy Porto Grande — the shipping
harbor ; and Molo, a long breakwater, with battery and
light-house (ascend this, for view) Across the square
before Castle stands handsome Mtiidcipal Palace.
374 s/APLES. — UNIVERSITY.
S. Giacomx,^ degli SpagnuoU (1540) has splendid
jnausoleum of Spanish Viceroy, Don Pedro de Toledo^
Near by is beautiful fountain, erected in 1695 by Duke
of Medina Celi; also, Incoronata ch. (1352), with in-
teresting Giottesqne frescos ; and Falazzo Fondi, with
picture-si:allery.
The Monte Oliveto Benedictine Monastery (1411),
on Via di Roma, is now a market. Here Tasso dwelt
in 1588. In ch. see many notable old tombs and pic-
tures. In the rear, see S. Maria la Nuova (1268 ;
restored in 1596), with famous frescos and tombs ; and
Post-Office, in beautiful old Palazzo Oravitia (1500).
Farther along Via di Roma, see Palazzo Maddaloni (now
a bank), with richly frescoed hall; and Palazzo Angri
(1773), once Garibaldi's headquarters. Strada S. Trinita
leads to r. towards Gesu Nuova ch. (1584), with many
frescos (opposite is refectory of S. Chiara, with Giot-
tesqne frescos) ; S.Chiara (1310), witli burial-chapel of
Bourbons, splendid monument of Robert the Wise
(1343), pulpit on 4 lions, and Madonna by Giotto;
lofty and imposing S. Domenico (1285), on a square
between palaces, and containnig 27 princely chapels,
rich in Renaissance art, altar of Florentine mosaic,
tombs of the Aragonese sovereigns, and of many
nobles and prelates, banner and sword (and tomb) of
Marquis of Pescara (Vittoria Colonna's husband), and
many pictures ; cell and lecture-room of Thoma§
Aquinas (1272) ; Chapel of S. Seoero (1590), crowded
with decoration, and containing remarkable sculptures
of Man in the Net and Christ in Winding- Sh eet ;
^.S'. Angela e Nilo (1385); University (1224), in
old Jesuit College, with 5 faculties, and very good
library (open 9-3) • S. Severino e Sosio, with notable
tombs and frescos, and beautiful cloisters in rear (adja*
cent Benedictine monastery has pricsiess archives of
NAPLES. 375
Naples, 40,000 parchments, beginning a. d. 703); Pa-
lazzo Santangelo (1466), with picture-gallery; Cas-
tello Capuano (1231), once home of Hohenstaufen
kings, and seat (after 1540) of Spanish and present
law-courts; and Capuan Gate (restored in 1535),
a noble piece of architecture. The Cathedral, not
far from the Gate, was built 1272-1314, on site of
Temple of ISTeptune. It is a basilica, with shrine and
tomb of St. Januarius, many frescos, and tombs of 2
popes, 2 kings of hnngary, etc. Adjacent is S.
Restituta, a basilica with Corinthian columns, and
baptistery attributed to Constantine (a.d. 333); also,
magnificent Chapel of St, Januarius (1608), rich in
gold and silver, precious stones, and other adorn-
ments, and enshrining the blood of the saint. 1^ M.
beyond Capuan Gate are the great cemeteries, the
Netv, with Doric ch., Gothic monastery, and 102
chapels; the Old, with 365 closed vaults for the
burial of tlie poor; and the Protestant, with many
English and American graves.
Between Castello Capuano and harbor, see SS,
Annunziata (1757); Porta Nolana ; the huge Cas-
tello del CarmiJie (1484), now a barrack and prison;
S. Maria del Carmine, with tomb and noble
statue of King Conradin; Piazza del Mercato
(where Conradin was executed, in 1268), with three
fountains; Carmine Gate, with .two massive towers;
and a very extensive quarter, with scores of narrow
and sinuous streets, crowded with picturesque Nea-
politans, macaroni-pedlers, story tellers, fishermen,
etc. S. Giovanni a Carhonara (1344), N. of Cathe-
dral, has splendid mausoleum of King Ladislaus
(1414). Farther ]S[. are Botanical Gardens and vast
Poor-HJouse. Between Cathedral and Via di Roma,
see >S'. Filippo Neri (1592), rich in paintings; S.
Paolo Maggiore (1691), in whose cloisters are many
ancient Roman columns; S. Lorenzo (1266), with.
376 CASTEL SANT' ELMO,
many frescos and fine cloisters (Petrarch and Boccaccio
have been here) ; the Gothic aS'. Pietro a Maiella (1316),
with monastery adjacent, now a school of music, where
Bellini was taught, and Mercadante was director.
Opposite Museum stands Ginnado Vittorio Emanuele
(1757), with 26 statues, and a statue of Dante in front.
From 8th-century ch. of S. Gennaro^ enter the Cata-
combs (fee, 11.), excavated by ancient Christians,
and much broader and higher than those at Home.
Myriads of dead have been buried here. Farther out
is Capodimonte Palace (fee, 1 1.), built for the
Bourbon kiugs (1738-1839), with long lines of state.
rooms, many pictures, rich furniture, a large garden,
and lovely views, f M. distant is the Observatory, on
far- vie wing crest of Capodimonte.
Castel Sant' Elmo (1343), 876 ft. above the bay,
is reached by a street from the Museum. It is a vast
and ponderous fortress (now military prison) overlook-
ing the city and sea. Close by is old Cavthusiau
monastery of S. Martino (now part of National Mu-
seum; open 9-5 ; 11.), built in 1325. See museum of
majolica, ivories, etc.; very beautiful cloisters, sur-
rounded by white-marble columns, and adorned with
statues ; and magnificent ch., lined with choice marbles
and mosaics, and adorned with famous paintings.
Exquisite views from this monastery.
Excursions from. Naples. — Beyond the Chiaja
and Villa Naziouale, witli tlieir statues, temples, and
aquarium, the Mergellina extends along the shore,
under Posilippo, with beautiful sea- views, and by nu-
merous villas, and the insulated 17th-century Palace
of Bonna Anna (now in ruins). Near the Chiaja stands
ancient ch., in which is the great mausoleum of th^
poet Sannazaro The road W. from the Chiaja leads
througli Grotta di Posilippo, a well-lighted tunnel id
ITALY. 377
the rock, "4- M, long, replacing grotta, now closed, cut
through by Augustus, and mentioned bj Seneca. Over
its E. end is so-called Tomb of Virgil (^ I.), a Roman
tomb with recesses for urns. Petrarch and King
Robert visited tliis spot, and planted laurel. Near bj
was Virgil's villa, where he wrote the Eclogues and
Georgics. Road through tunnel leads to Grotto of
Sejanus (11.). ^ tunnel cut through the rocky ridge
by Nerva (b.c. 37), and repaired by Honorius (a.d. 400).
It is f M. long, and higher and wider than Posilippo
tunnel. Near by, see many remains of villas of Lucul-
lus, PoUio, and other Roman lords. Also, on islet of
Nisida, site of villa where Cicero visited Brutus
(b.c. 44), after he had killed Csesar; and afterwards of
Queen Johanna II.'s villa (15th century). The Lake
of Anagno (a crater; now drained) is f M. from
fuorigrotta. (where see tomb of Leopardi, in ch.) ;
and near by are singular ancient baths of sulphurous
gas; also, Grotto del Cane, famous for carbonic-acid,
whose effects are tried on unhappy dogs. It is 6 M.
from Naples over this road to Pozzuoli, on site of
Greek colony conquered by Rome, and later chief port
of Italy, and depot of Oriental trade. Here Sylla
died ; Hadrian was buried ; St. Paul sojourned 7 days ;
and Cicero had a villa. See remnants of Temples of
Serapis (formerly very splendid), Neptune (pillars
rising from sea), and ^kx^Nym-phs ; many Roman tombs ;
Piscina Grande, a great reservoir; Capuchin monastery
(1580); Roman quay, now called Bridge of Caligula;
Cathedral, with tomb of Pergolesi ; and Amphitheatre
(1 1.), seating 30,000, where Nero gave gladiatorial
combats before the King of Armenia, and St. Januariug
was exposed to the hons. Near by, see Solfatara, a.
low crater with warm earth, hot alum springs, and
many fissures whence gases rise (last eruption of lava
378 tjAIA. — crMJS.
m 1198) ; and Monte Nuovo, a volcanic hill (now vine*
yards) thrown up in 1538. To the W. lies Lah
Lucrinus, whence the Romans obtained their best oys
ters, and tlie Neapolitans get choice fish. Lake Aver,
aus, a picturesque crater-pond, 1^ M. around, amid
chestnut and orange groves, was held to be the entrance
to the infernal regions, until Augustus made it a harbor
by cutting a canal to Ihe bay. The fabled entrance to
Hades is shown in adjacent Qrotto of the Siljyl (1 1.),
a tunnel 840 ft. long. The Grotta delta Face, \ M.
long, leads from W. shore towards Cumse, catting
through intervening ridge.
The Baths of Nero are long rock-passages, containing
hot springs, in whose waters eggs may be cooked.
Baia (Uegina^ was the most magnificent of summer-
resorts in time of Cicero, Augustus, and Hadrian, and
ivas praised by Horace. The Saracens destroyed it;
and the Spanish viceroys built a castle and light-house
an the site. Here are massive ruins of temples of
Vquus, Diana, and Mercury, villas of Julius Caesar,
Nero, and Hortensius, a splendid Roman reservoir, and
other remnants of antiquity. To the S. is Cape Mi-
Beno, near site of great Roman naval station of
Misenum, and commanding a superb view. 1 M. from
Baia is Lake ofFusaro, 1^ M. N. of which are ruins of
great Cnmae, which was founded by Greeks (b.c. 1050),
and had profound infljience in Italy, founding Naples,
giving the Sibylline books to Rome, receiving the
Tarquins, defeating the Etruscans, and finally con-
quered by the Samnites and Romans. The Goth?
restored it, but the Moslems destroyed the town ; and
6 centuries ago the Neapolitans annihilated it, as a den
of pirates. Near l>y, see Acropolis, with fortifications
and noble views ; half-buried Amphitheatre ; fragments
of old temples; and huge brick arch of Arco Felice,
U ft. high.
VE.«UVIUS. — HEKCULANirnM. 379
Pozzuoli, Baia, Cumse, etc., may be seen in 1 day
by carriage (25 1. ; 1-horse carriage, 10-12 1.). Take
guide from Naples (5 I.), to escape local annoyances.
Mount Vesuvius is about 4,000 ft. high, and
30 M. around, isolated on the Plain of Campania, and
with 80,000 people living in its chestnut valleys. In
A.D. 79 it had a terrible volcanic eruption (described
by PHny and Tacitus), since which 60 or more have
occurred, entailing vast losses of life and the annihi-
lation of many villages and cities. Enormous losses
were caused by the eruption of 1872. Of a crowd
which watched its beginning, 20 persons were swept
away and destroyed by the outbursting iava. The cable
road now obviates much of the labor formerly neces-
sary in ascent. Beautiful view from Ohservatory ; and
from summit you can see a vast area of sea and land.
Excursion from Naples to summit and return , 21 1.
exclusive of fees of ofS.cial guidv. at summit.
Herculaneum, founded by Hercules, and later a
town of Roman villas, was buried by an eruption of
Vesuvius, AD. 79, and discovered in 1719, when a
well was being dug. Since then, excavations have
shown that 40-90 ft. beneath the present town of Resina
is a large and splendid ancient city, whose statues,
mural paintings, papyri, etc., are adorning the mu-
seums. It was richer than Pompeii, but is much more
deeply buried, and under a more impenetrable covering.
Little has yet been excavated, but that little should be
seen (2 1. for guide and torch). The residences and
shops excavated in 1868 are very interesting; the
theatre, though immense in size, is too dark to be well
seen. ■^
Pompeii (Suisse; Diomede) is nearly 1 hr. from
Naples (5 trains daily ; fares, 2 1. 75 c, 1 1. 90 c,
11. 10 c), by rly. passing through Portici (1^^,00^
380 _ POMPEII.
jihab.) ; Resina, near La Favorita, royal chateau, and
at foot of Vesuvius ; and Torre del Greco, swept by 4
streams of lava witbin 300 years. Beautiful views of
bay and volcano. Read about Pompeii before going
there. Near Pompeii stat. is entrance to ruins (21.;
guide furnished : no gratuity ; stay as long as you lilce).
Pompeii was a Greek commercial city (b.c. 400-500),
which was subjugated by Rome, and became a favorite
resort of her nobles and emperors (with 25,000 inhab.).
It was overthrown by earthquake, a.d. 63 ; rebuilt
immediately; and in 79 buried under 20 ft. of ashes
from Vesuvius, when 2,000 citizens lost their lives.
Excavations were begun in 1748, and are still going
on. The walls are 1^ M. around, with 8 gates. The
streets are 14-24 ft. wide, paved with deeply rutted
lava blocks, with stepping-stones and fountains at cor-
ners. The concrete or brick lower stories of houses
remain; the other stories were burnt. The shops,
taverns, homes, street-notices, etc., are very interesting.
Note Temple of Venus ; Forum, where main streets
converged, with Temple of Jupiter, Prison, Basilica^
Triumphal Arch, Public Granary, Temple of Mercury y
beautiful Chalcidicmn, Town Hall, Temple of Augustus,
See House of Wild Boar in Street of Abundance;
Triaiigular Forum ; the two Theatres; barracks of the
soldiers; House of Sculptor ; Stabia Gate; Temple of
Isis; House of Holconius ; vast amphitheatre ^ which
seated 20,000. Thence visit Stabian Thermae, Balcony
House, Houses of Siricus and Marcus Lucretius, of the
Chase, of Ariadne, of Grand " Duke of Tuscany, of
Figured Capitals, of Black Walls ; Temple of Fortune;
Public Baths; Hoiese of the Vettii; House of the Faun;
House of Anchor, of tragic Poet (Bulwer describes it
in Last Days of Pompeii); Fuller'' s Shop; Great and
Hittle Fountains; House of Pansa, of Labyrinth, of
CASERTA. — SORRENTO. 381
Castor and Pollux, of Centaur, of Meleager, Adonis^
Apollo; Academy of Music ; Bake-house; Soap-shop;
Barber s Shop ; Custom House ; Street of Tombs ; and
Villa of Biomedes (where several bodies were found),
beyond Herculaneum Gate. There are many curiosities
in the museums, especially casts of the bodies found in
the ruins. You may ride hence on horseback (\\ hrs.)
to cairn of stones on Vesuvius ; whence climb (1 hr. on
foot) to summit (guide and horse, 101.).
Caserta {Vittoria), about 20 M. from Naples, on
rly. to Rome, has a magnificent Royal Palace (1752),
834 ft. long and wide, and 134 liigh, with colonnaded
courts, famous gardens and cascades, beautiful views,
and sumptuous apartments. See chapel, highly en-
riched with lapis lazuli and gold ; and theatre, with 16
antique Corinthian columns of African marble.
No one should leave Naples without having visited
Sorrento, Amalfi, and Salerno. Uly, in 1 hr. (3 1. 10 c,
2 1. 15 c, 11. 25 c), along shore of bay^ to Castella-
raare {Hotel Weiss; Quisisana), a famous Neapolitan
summer-resort and Italian naval station (33,000 inhab.),
near overwhelmed ruins of Stabise, and with 13th-cen-
tury castle, royal chateau of Quisisana (on the hill),
and Monte S. Angelo, 5,000 ft. high, with superb view
(guide and donkey, 51.). Here also are famous sul-
phurous and ferruginous springs. An excellent road
(J\ M. ; carriage, 5 1.) between the mts. and Bay, leads
hence, by Vico and Mela, and a delicious paradise o/
orange and olive groves, to Sorrento {G-ran Bretagna;
jy Anqleterre ; Tasso, where Tasso was born, 1544:
Sirena; Vittoria; Tramontano) , an ancient seaport
on Bay of Naples, famous for exquisite scenery, and
delightfully cool summ.er-climate (it faces N.). Quaint
villages, ancient chs., natii:?! curiosities, villas and
^r)u vents, glens and myrtle-groves, ronkj islets and
382 CAPRI. — ISCHIA.
points, make this region very charming. Steamboats
leave Naples (S. Lucia) at 9 a.m. daily, for Sorrento
(61.; return-tickets, 101.), Capri (81.; return, 131.);
and Ischia. Boat from Sorrento to Capri, 5 1., in
two hours (bad trip in rough weather).
Capri {Tiherio and Quisisana, both kept by
English people ; Pagano; Grotte Bleue),th.Q^^l'&\&TidL
of Goats," is 4^ M. long, with almost unbroken
lines of cliffs, and far- vie wing mts. 3,000 ft. high.
There are 4,500 inhab., mostly farmers and coral
fishers. Augustus and Tiberius built many villas
and palaces here. In 1803 Capri was strongly
fortified by the English; but Murat captured it
five years later. On Eo see ruins of Villa of
Tiberius, and the cliff, 700 ft. high, called Salto
di Tiherio, whence the cruel Emperor forced his
victims to leap into the sea. Near by is an inn.
See Natural Arch; Grotto of Mithras; lofty village
of Anacapri, with Barbarossa's castle ; and Monte
Solaro, with superb view. The most celebrated of
the caverns is the Blue Grotto, 106 by 80 ft. in area,
and 40 ft. high, partly filled by beautifully azure
sea-water, and lighted and entered only by a low and
narrow aperture, where the sea beats against the cliff
(boat, 2 1. for 3 persons; 1 1. for each additional).
The White, Red, Green, and Stalactite Grottos are
also visited by boat.
Ischia is a fertile island 15. M. around, with
35,000 inhab., devoted to vineyards and fisheries,
with delightful summer climate, castle of Alfonso I.
of Aragon, lovely village of Casamicciola (damaged
in 1883 by earthquake), and grand view from
top of quiescent volcano of Epomeo. Ischia has
been ravaged by Romans, Saracens, Pisans, Nea-
politans, and French; and was the home of Vit-
toria Colonna and Maria of Aragon. Boat from
Naples in two hrs. (fares, 5 1., 3^ 1.). Procida
SALERNO. — PJESTUM. — AMALFI. 383
is a neighboring volcanic island, 3 M. long, with
14,000 inhab., originally settled, like Capri and
Ischia, by Greeks.
Salerno {Hotel d/Angleterre) is a picturesque
old provincial capital (22,000 inhab.), 83^ M. from
Naples (rly. fares, 6 1. 15 c, 4| 1., 2 1. 45c.), fronting
on a magnificent bay, with fine quay, 1^ M. long,
irregular medijEval streets, ancient Lombard Castle,
and delightfully quaint old Cathedral (1084), with
many antique columns, sarcophagi, and mosaics,
and tombs of St. Matthew, Pope Gregory the Great,
Margaret of Anjou, etc. The University was very
celebrated in Middle Ages (see Longfellow's Golden
Legend).
Paestum, 23 M. from Salerno, by railway over
dull shore-plains, founded by Greeks, B.C. 600, and
destroyed by Saracens, is a collection of the finest
Greek ruins in existence (out of Athens), including
Temple of Neptune, 189 by 84 ft., with 52 fluted
Doric columns; Temple of Ceres, 105 by 45 ft.,
with 34 fluted columns; and Basilica, 111 by 80 ft.,
with 60 columns; well-preserved travertine town-
walls 3 M. around; amphitheatre, Roman temple,
Street of Greek tombs. Admission to temples, 1 1.,
Sun. free.
Amaifii {Luna), a lovely village (7,000 inhab.),
where a great mt. -gorge opens on Gulf of Salerno,
was once a flourishing commercial republic, rivalling
Genoa and Pisa, but yielded to the armies of Naples
in 1131. Near the Marina quay is the 11th-century
, Cathedral, with campanile and cloisters, rich mosaics
and Byzantine bronze doors, and tomb of St. Andrew.
I A landslide in December, 1899, destroyed the ancient
iCapucin monastery and two hotels. 1^- hour's
climb leads to Ravello (once 30,000 inhab., now
1,500), with magnificent 11th-century cathedral and
Rufalo Palace (here Pope Adrian IV. and Robert the
S84 SICILY. — MESSINA.
Wise lived), botli in rich Saracenic architecture, and
crther notable chs. Amalfi may be reached from Sorrento,
by boat and path, in 5 hrs. It is better to go there
from Salerno (1^-2 hrs. ; 1-horse' carriage, 5-6 1.)^
over one of the noblest roads in the world, through 6
villages, amid, vineyards and orange and lemon groves,
by Charles V.'s anti-Saracenic watch-towers.
Majori {Beau Site Hotel), near Amalfi, is a charm-
ing spot.
Sicily.
This beautiful island may be conveniently visited
from Naples, whence steamships run, several times
weekly, to Palermo and Messina (15-22 lirs. ; fares,
40 1. 60 c, 24 1. 60 c, to either port), passing Capri,
Stromboli, and the Lipari Isles. Travellers can avoid
sea-trip by uncomfortable 26 hrs. (436 M.) rly, ride
from Naples through Salerno; Eboli; Cosenza (Alaric's
grave), with 18,000 inhab.; Tiriolo ; lofty Monteleo?ie,
with 10,000 inhab. ; Mileto, whence Sicilian mts. are
seen ; Palmi; and Scilla, where 1,500 persons were
killed by "earthquake of 1783 (and near Homer's
Scylla); to Reggie, once a ber.ntiful city of 35,000
souls, but totally destroyed, with the loss of 20,000
of its inhabitants, in the earthquake of December 28,
1908.
French steamers run from Marseilles to Palermo in
50 hrs. Italian boats from Grenoa to Palermo in 33
hrs. Steamers run round Sicily weekly, from Paler-
mo, touching at chief ports.
Messina, formerly the chief commercial town of
Sicily, with 150,000 inhab., had a magnificent situa-
tion on an amphitheatrical slope, over a secure and
well-fortified harbor. It was founded by the Greeks,
B.C. 733; conquered by Samos, Athens (B.C. 427),
SICILY. - CATANIA. 385
Carthage (396 and 270), Mamertines, Rome, Sara-
cens, Normans, English (Coeur de Lion), Spaniards,
French and Italians ; often ravaged by fire, plague,
and earthquake. These evil days had left it but few-
antiquities. The Norman Cathedral (1098) had 26
antique columns, mosaics, royal tombs and sarcophagi;
and in front was the splendid Montorsoli Fou7itain
(1647-51). In the early morning of Dec. 28, 1908,
Messina was again visited by an earthquake, the
severest in its long history of disasters, which threw
down or ruined nearly every building in the city,
killing, according to the most trustworthy estimates,
100,000 persons, or two-thirds of the entire popula-
tion. The towns on both sides of the Strait of Mes-
sina, estimated to number at least 60, were at the
same time more or less completely destroyed within a
space of twelve seconds, 165,000 persons being killed.
Ry. hence in 3 h. by Taormina^Q-iardini sta.), with
grand ruins of a Greek theatre (whence famous view),
acropolis and castle, and ducal palace; across lava
fields of jEtua ; and by Aci-Reale, scene of adventures
of Polyphemus, and Acis and Galatea; to
CatanieU {Bretagne; Albergo Centrale; Sangiorgi;
DuGlohe), handsomest and most cultured city in Sicily
(147,000 inhab., by the seaside, at foot of -ZEtna, and
rich in palaces and villas, embowered in groves of
orange. It was founded by Greeks, b. c. 780 ; and
conquered by Athens, Carthage, Rome, the Goths,
Byzantines, Saracens, Germans, and Spaniards, See
Cathedral (1091), with tombs of 6 Aragonese sover-
eigns, and of St, Agatha ; S. Carcere, with relics ;
cloisters and gardens, museum, library of suppressed
Benedictine Monastery of S. Nicola, than which there
was but one more splendid in the world (all its monks
were of noble blood) ; underground remains of Grceco-
Uoman Theatre and Odeum (fee, 2 1.) ; Roman BatJis
25
386 MOUNT ^TNA. — SYRACUSE.
and Amphitheatre ; Roman Tombs ; University (1444).
500 students ; and public gardens of Villa Bellini,
with Italian statues.
Mount JBtnsL (10,835 ft. high) may be ascended
hence, by carriage (2| lirs.), to Nicolosi (20-25 1.
there and back); whence 8 hrs. by lodge of Casa
Inglese to summit (guide, 10 1. ; mule, 10 1.) ; return
from top to Catania^ 8-9 hrs. It is best to sleep at
Casa Inglese (at base of cone of crater), and reach
summit before sunrise. There have been over 80 re-
corded eruptions, one of which (1693) destroyed 80,000
lives. In 1886 the last occurred. The view includes
all Sicily and surrounding seas, Calabria, Lipari
Isles, and Malta. Rly. from Catania (54 M. ; 9 1. 85 c,
6 1. 90 c., 41. 95c.) to
Syracuse {Agradina; Villa Politi; G?'and), once the
most important city in the Greek world, now a quiet
I modern port (31,000 inhab.), with very charming envi-
rons, a noble harbor, narrow and crooked streets, and
beautiful women who wear picturesque costumes. It
was founded by Corinthians, B.C. 734; defeated the
Carthaginians and Etruscans ; repulsed the besieging
Athenian fleet and army (b.c. 414-13), with terrible
losses ; beat off frequent attacks from Carthage ;
entertained jEschylus, Pindar, Simonides, etc. ; and was
defended by Archimedes against the Romans (b.c.
914-12), but fell and was nearly annihilated. Paul and
Marcian preached here. It has since been ravaged by
Franks, Byzantines, Normans, and Spaniards ; and has
never recovered from the Moslem destruction in 878.
The inhabitants still preserve the Greek type. See Cathe-
dral, on site of Temple of Minerva, with remarkable
font and leaning pillars ; Museum (open 9-1, 3-5).,
with fine Greek Venus, and other antiquities ; Foun-
tain of Arethusa, famed in Greek m3rthology, and still
PALERMO. 387
surrounded Oy papyrus plants ; ruins of Temple of Diana;
Castle ; and Montalto Palace. On mainland near by,
see scanty remains of ancient Syracuse : Amphitheatre ;
Latomice, or quarries once worked by slaves ; grotto
C2iVLQdL Ear of Diont/sius ; Greek Theatre (480-406 B.C.);
Fountain of Cyane, amid growing papyri; fragments
of Temple of Zeus Olympius ; etc.
Weekly steamers lience to Malta in 8 hrs.
Palermo {Hotel de France ; Trinacria ; Des Palmes;
Centrale), the capital of Sicily (315,000 inhab.), is very
beautifully situated between Mt. Pellegrino and Cape
Zaffarana, facing the sea, and has mild winters and
intensely hot summers. It was settled from Phoenicia,
fitrengtheued from Greece, fortified by Carthage, cap-
tured by E-ome, and governed in succession by the
Byzantines, Arabs, Normans, Germans, French, and
English. On the beautiful Marina and La Flora prome-
nades the Sicilian people of fashion congregate. The
Cathedral (1169-85) is a great and imposing ch.,
with tombs of the Sicilian kings, and of Emperor Ered-
erick 11. ; immense silver sarcophagus containing
remains of St. Rosalia ; many statues and carved choir
stalls; and crypt, with tombs of ancient archbishops.
La Martorana ch. (12th century) has curious old Greek
mosaics, Corinthian columns, and a tall campanile. See
also S. Cataldo (1161), a Sicilian-Norman ch. ; S,
Giovanni degli Fremiti, ia form of letter T, with 5
domes, and cloisters ; gorgeously ornamented Jesuits'
ch, ; Norman S. Francesco d'Assisi ; and S. Domenico
(1640), winch can hold 12,000 persons The Museum
(open 10-3 ; 11.) contains many Sicilian-Greek statues
and sarcophagi, Pompeian antiquities, and a picture-
gallery, mainly composed of paintings by old Sicilian
masters. The Uoyal Palace is Saracenic, with notable
apartments added b.y King Po^er, Pobert Guiscard*
388 PALERMO. — MONEEALE.
Manfred, and Emperor Frederick II. Here also is
magnificent Cappella Palatma (1132), the finest castle-
chapel in the world, a basilica with Egyptian-granite
columns, Saracenic arches, mosaics on gold, and many
Arabian inscriptions. Superb view from Observatory,
The great cloisters of the Spedale Grande (13bO) are
covered with frescos. Note Gothic windows of Archi-
episcopal Palace ; large Municipal Palace j University ;
National Library (open 9-2) ; spacious and arcaded
Paterno Palace ; Palace of the Tribunals (1307), long
the home of the Inquisition; Ganzia Monastery ; rich
Botanical Garden; and Porta Nuova, triumphal arch
for Charles V.'s solemn entry after his victory at Tunis.
Monreale, 5 M. out, beyond Palace of Due d'Au-
male, elegant old Saracenic palace of Cubola, Capuchin
Monastery where Palermitan patricians are kept em-
balmed, and rich gardens of Villa Tasca, is a large town
which has risen around the Cathedral, founded by
William II. in 1170. It is 333 X 132 ft. in area, with
superb entrance ; bronze doors (1186) ; Saracenic
arches ; cloisters supported on 216 columns ; and over
60,000 square ft. of magnificent mosaics, scriptural
and historical. Monreale is 1231 ft. above the sea, and
commands famous views. More than 1,200 ft. above is
venerable Benedictine Monastery of S. Martino, with
library, museum, and views. The celebrated Monte
Pellegrino can be ascended in 2 hrs. See shrine and
grotto of St. Rosalia, and immense sea-view. La
Favorita is a splendid royal villa, beyond the so-called
English Garden. Nearly 3 M. out is S. Maria di Gesu,
a large suppressed monastery, with favorite view of
Palermo. Ancient Saracenic villas and chateaux of
modern Sicilian nobles abound in the environs.
From Palermo it is 96 M. by rly. (15i 1., 101. 70e.,
7 1. 65c.) to
GIRGENTI. — CIVITA VECCHIA. 389
^ G^rgenti {Hotel Belvedere; Des Temples), chief
town on S. coast of Sicily (21,000 inhab.). On mt.
near by are ruins of Acragas (Agrigentum), which
Pindar Ci!s,lled " the most beautiful city of mortals."
It was founded by Cretans; had 200,000 inhab.,
and vast wealth ; was destroyed by Carthage, and
became a Roman colony. Here are fairly preserved
ruins of Temples of Juno (with 34 columns),
Hercules (88 columns), Concord (34 columns^
Zeus (37 huge columns), and others; and walls,
gates, cloaca), catacombs, tombs, etc., in great
, numbers.
Leghorn, Pisa, Lucca, Genoa, flonaco.
Tourists who have reached Naples by rly. had best
' return N. by sea. The Fraissinet steamships leave
, Naples twice weekly for Civita Vecchia, Leghorn,
^ Genoa and Marseilles.
*' Civita Vecchia [Trajano ; Italia) is a fortified
port of 12,000 inhab., founded by Trajan, and des-
troyed by Saracens (in 828). Fortress built after
plans by Michael Angelo. Rly. across Maremma to
Leghorn. Rly. to Rome, 50^ M., in 2 hrs. (fares,
9 1. 20 c, 6 1. 40 c, 4 1. 60 c). Time of voyage from
Naples, 12-14 hrs.
A voyage of 12 hrs., by Elba, leads hence to Leg-
horn {Hotel d'' Angleterre Campari; Grand; Giap-
pone; Bastia; Falcone e Patria), one of the chief
Mediterranean ports (over 100,000 inhab.), fortified,
well-built and modern. It was founded by the Medici
family, as a refuge for the oppressed. See Hnglish
Cemetery, with Smollett's tomb ; fine statues of three
Tuscan Grand-Dukes ; venerated sailors' ch. on Monta.
Nero; piers and quays, with busy and chattering
srowcts, and handsome squares and Corso.
Rly. to Pisa, 12 M. (2 1. 5 c, 1 1. 40 c, 11.).
390 PISA.
Pisa {Hotel Yittoria; Nettuno; Grand Hotel Min-
erve et Ville ; Grand Hotel; Hotel Washington)
^ a quiet and beautiful town (50,000 inhab.) near the
mouth of the Arno, and 50 M. from riorence (fares,
81. 80c., 61.20 c.). It was conquered by Rome,
B.C. 180 ; adorned v/itli temples by Augustus and Ha-
drian; became a rival of Venice and Genoa in Middle
Ages ; defeated the Saracens in many naval battles ;
became anti-Papal, and was defeated by Genoa ; and
since 1406 has been subject to Florence. It is very
hot in summer, but the mildness of its winters attracts
many Northern visitors to the quaint and sombre old
town. It is surrounded by picturesque walls ; and has
3 bridges, and a fine quay along the Arno, on and near
which you may see, on N. side, many palaces and chs.,
including 13th-century S. Michel e ; University/ (1493),
with Renaissance court (statue of Galileo) and valuable
library ; Alia Giornata, Vitelli and Royal Palaces ; S.
Niccolo (1000), once Benedictine, with statue of Per-
dinand I. in front ; and Guelphic fortress, near Ponte
» Mare. On S. shore, 12th-century S. Paolo, with
handsome old fapade ; Benedictine monastery ; Gam-
bacorti Palace, now custom-house ; /S. Maria della
Bjiina (1230), a beautiful marble Gothic chapel, with
fragment of Crown of Thorns ; round 8. Sepolcro; and
the Fortress. Back from the river, on N., see S. Fran-
cesco (1300), with campanile; Botanical , Gar den and
Natural-History Museum ; /S'. /S'u/o (1089); ^Yidi Piazza
dei Cavalieri, the old Republican forum. Here stand
Palazzo de' Cavalieri, with statues, and S. Stefano
(1565), ch. of Knights of Sto Stephen, with Turkish
trophies and notable painting? The adjacent Acad-
emy of Fine Arts (open 9-2jl was founded by^iNapo-
leon I., and contains many good Pisan and Florentine
paintings. Lord Byron lived a long time in Palazzo
PISA. 391
Lanfranchi. S. Catenna (1253) has interesting pictures,
and stands in a pleasant square, near the old Komaii
baths and the Lucca Gate.
In the remote N. W. corner of Pisa is a wonderful
group of mediaeval buildings, nearly surrounded by
gardens and the wall. The Cathedral, 311 X 106 ft.
in area, and 109 ft. high in the nave, was founded in
1063, to commemorate defeat of Moslems at Palermo,
and consecrated by Pope Gelasius II. in 1118. It is
in magnificent Tuscan-Gothic architecture, of white and
colored marbles, with remarkable fagade of columns and
arches, double aisles, and dome lined with Cimabue's
mosaics. Inside are 65 antique columns (trophies of »
Pisan conquests), a splendidly gUded ceiling, bronze
doors designed by John of Bologna, 13 altars designed
by Michael Angelo, carved pulpit by Niccolo Pisano,
altars enriched with silver and lapis lazuli, many rare
pictures, and swinging bronze lamp from which Galileo
got the idea of the pendulum.
In front is the finest Baptistery in the world. It
is round (100 ft. in diameter, and 190 ft. high) ; in
Roman-Tuscan (1153-1278) and Gothic styles; of
marble ; and surrounded with ancient columns. Inside,
see six-sided pulpit on 7 columns, with 6 reliefs by
Niccolo Pisano, and handsome font.
The Leaning Tower (1174-1350), or Campanile^
behind Cathedral, is 179 ft. high, in 8 stories, sur-
rounded by colonnades, and containing 7 bells. It is
14 ft. out of the perpendicular. Grand view from top,
of the Apennines, the coast, Elba, and Corsica.
The Campo Santo ( open daily; 25c.) is an enclos-
ure filled with scores of shiploads of sacred earth from
Mt. Calvary, and consecrated to the burial of great
men. The cloistered hall which surrounds it was built
1278-83, by John of Pisa, and is 424 ft. long and 145
393 LUCCA. - CARRARA.
ft. broad, with 62 beautiful windows opening on
the verdant court within. The walls are decorated
with wonderful and curious 14th-eentury frescos
of early Bible history and the Triumph of Death,
some of which are attributed to Griotto and Orcagna.
There are many splendid monuments in these cor-
ridors, to Emperor Henry VII., Gregory XIII.,
Catalani, etc. ; and sculptures by Mino da Fiesole,
John of Pisa, Luca della Robbia, Dupre, and Thor-
waldsen.
Excursions from Pisa. — To summer resort of
Baths of Oombo, near which Shelley was drowned.
To La Certosa, a Carthusian monastery, 6 M. out,
on the Pisan Mts. To Basilica of S. Pietro in Grado
(A.D. 1000), 3 M. out, where St. Peter landed in
Italy. Ely. in 13 M. to
Lucca {Universo ; Corona; Croce di Malta), a
beautiful old walled city (74,000 inbab.), on a rich
plain, and embowered in groves. A splendid Roman
municipium, it afterwards became Gothic, Lombard,
Frankish, ducal, republican, Pisan and Tuscan; and
was home of Dante, and principality of Napoleon's
sister. See sumptuous Romanesque Cathedral
(1060-70), very rich in art; 7th-century Basilica of
S. Frediano, built by Lombard kings, with rare old
pictures; chs. of S. Giovanni, S. Romano, S.
Francesco, and S. Micliele, and old palaces; and
walk around fine old ramparts. The Baths of
Lucca {Hotel de V Europe; des Thermes; NeivYorh;
Pavilion; Queen Victoria), 13 M. N., among the
Apennines, are a collection of 19 sulphuretted
ferruginous springs. This has been a famous health
resort for centuries.
Pisa to Genoa, by rly., 102i M. (fares, 18 1. 15 c,
131. 60 c, 10 I.). Sea-passage, Leghorn to Genoa,
9 hrs. The rly. lies between Apennines and sea,
passing Carrara, a beautiful town of 23,000 inhab.
■li
SPEZTA. - GENOA. 393
(mostly sculptors and marble-workers), embowered m
groves of chestnut, olive, orange, and lemon trees, and
3 hrs. from great marble-quarries, where 6,000 men are
employed. Jja. Spezia. (Gran Bretagna; Grace di Mal-
ta; Italia) is the chief Italian naval port, strongly
fortified and well equipped (66,000 inliab.), and was
commended by Strabo as one of tlie vastest and best
ports in the world. Many visitors come in summer for
the sea-baths ; and in winter, for the mild climate.
Pleasant trip to Forio Venere (1| hr.). The rly. goes
ou, by Sestri Leoante and Lavagna, along sliore of
Mediterranean, with charming views, and through
many tunnels.
Genoa. (Bristol; Modern; Eden Palace; Continen-
tal; Isotta; De Genes; De la Yille: De Londres;
Metropole; De France; Smith; Central), called by its
citizens La Super ba, has 811,000 inhab., and is Italy's
chief commercial town. It was founded by Ligurians j
became Roman ; enriched itself in Crusades ; conquered
great Levantine domains ; fought many wars" with
Venice, Pisa, and the Moslems ; was torn for centuries
by Guelph-Ghibelline civil wars ; maintained itself as
a republic from 10th century to 19th ; was annexed to
Prance in 1800; and in 1815 became Sardinian. It
has more imposing marble palaces than any other city •,
but the streets are narrow, steep, and crooked. It
presents a vast hemicycle of buildings, ranged along
the hills like seats in an amphitheatre, with bold
wooded heights above. Ramparts, 7 M. long, defend
the city; and an outer line, 20 M. long, with towers
and intrenchments, traverses the hills beyond The
Harbor is sheltered by 2 long piers with light-houses ;
and separated from the town by a high arcaded wall,
by which fishermen and sailors take their ease. At end
near the chief hotels, there is a marble terrace 1,500 ft.
394 GENOA.
long and 45 ft. wide, affording pleasant view of harbor.
Near by is handsome 16th-centurj Exchange, with
statue of Cavour. Tlie Custom House contains many
statues of Genoese worthies in its main hall. Splendid
view of city, sea, and Riviera from dome of S. Maria
di Carignano, on high hill to S. E.
The Cathedral (1100) is of alternate bands of
black and white marbles, with 16 Corinthian columns,
sumptuous chapels, rare paintings, many statues, and
the Holy Grail. Near by, on Piazza Nuova, see white-
marble town-hall, with statues (once Ducal Palace) ;
and 16tli-century Jesuits' ch. of S. Ambrogio, with pic-
tures by Guido and Rubens. Near by are S. Matteo
(1378), with many sculptures and inscriptions of Doria
family ; Academy of Fine Arts, with pictures and statu-
ary ; 12th-century Gothic ch. of S. Stefano, with famous
picture by Giulio Romano ; and Pallavicini and Spinola
Palaces. The modern Yia Balhi and Via Nuova are
streets of superb palaces, many of which have beautiful
courtyards and staircases. Of these, notice 16th-cen-
tury Mmiicipio, with mosaic portraits of Columbus and
Marco Polo (and letters of former) in council hall;
Brignole-Sale, with 8 rooms full of old paintings (fee,
1 1.) ; Adorno (1500), with valuable pictures. Most of
the Genoese palaces were built by (or in manner of)
Alessi, a pupil of Michael Angelo. The cruciform
Capuchin ch. olSS. Annmiziata (1587), with fluted red-
marble columns and frescoed dome, is very rich. Hence
the Via Balbi, a broad modern street of palaces, leads
to rly. stat., passing handsome old Palazzo Durazzo ;
University (1622), with museums, Ubrary (60,000 vols.),
and the finest courtyard and staircase in Genoa; Pa-
lazzo Balbi, with large picture-gallery (fee, 11.);
Palazzo Durazzo and Royal Palace (open daily), with
richly furnished halls, throne-room, and many pictures.
SAVONA. — SAN REMO. 39.^
fn square by rly. stat., see fine monument to Columbus
(18&2), with several allegorical statues and reliefs.
Beyond is Palace of Do da Princes, presented to Au-
drea Doria, "The Father of his Country," in 1522,
rith splendidly frescoed halls, gardens, arcades, and
^'tatues.
Excursions from Genoa. — Villa Pallavicini (get
permission at Durazzo Palace ; open 2-3 p.m. ; fee,
1-2 1.), with luxuriant park and gardens, magnificent
views, grottos, kiosques, fountains, etc. (at Pegli stat.,
7i M. ; I hr. by rly . ; fares, 1 1. 15 c., 80 c). Campo
Santo, 1| M. out, new and interesting.
The famousCornicheroad leads along the i^Mera
di Ponente from Genoa to Nice (128 1 M.), through
some of the finest coast and hill scenery in the world.
Steamboats from Genoa to Nice, in 8-9 hrs., nearly
every day.
Rly. from Genoa to Nice in 7-9 hrs. (116 M. ; fares,
211. 5 c., 141. 90 c., 101. 65 c.), by slow and not very
comfortable trains. The journey should be by day, as
the route follows the Mediterranean coast through a
succession of beautiful and historic towns and villages.
Take seat on r. as far as Savona ; beyond which the
best views are on the 1. The line traverses many tun-
nels, through rocky promontories.
Savona {Pension Suisse ; Italia ; Eoma) is an
ancient city (40,000 inliab.), whose fine harbor Genoa
caused to be tilled up, after conquering the town.
SixLUS IV. and Julius H. were born here. See Gathe
dral (1604) ; 8. Bomenico, with triptych by Diirer j
colossal statue of Virgin on tower by harbor. Rly,
hence to Turin.
San Remo {Royal; West-End ; Midi; Paradis ;
Savoy; d' Europe; Bellevue: de la Mediterranee; Victo-
ria; Central; de Londres; de Paris; de Nice), town of
396 BORDIGHERA.
20,000 inhab., on hill-slopes covered with, vineyards
and groves of orange, lemon, olive, pommegranate
and palm trees. The climate is very mild, and at-
tracts many English, American, German and Russian
families in winter. The town is a densely populated
group of fortress-like medigeval houses, with pictur-
esque labyrinths of deep and narrow lanes. See
very ancient Cathedral; lovely view from Assump-
tion ch.; ruined Borea Palace ; and hermitage of
S. Romolo.
Bordighera {Hotel W Angleterre; Royal; Angst;
Windsor; du Cap Ampeglio; Park; Victoria; Hes-
peria) has a beautiful site, on a hill of palm-
trees, projecting into the sea, with picturesque streets
and houses. It was once the capital of a republic.
Ruffini laid the scene of his Br. Antonio hereabouts.
Climate is exceptionally soft in winter, with bracing
quality, and is delightful in spring and fall. Many
Americans come here. See Villa of Grarnier, archi-
tect of Paris Opera-Hoase ; and palm-garden of
Moreno. Vmtim{gUa.{Maison Doree; Suisse) is the
frontier- town, where baggage is examined and travel-
lers change cars. Be sure that your baggage is put
back on train.
MENTONE. - MONACO. 397
SOUTHERN FRANCE.
rientone, Nice, Cannes, MarseiUes.
MENTONE {Royal and Westminster; Victoria;
National; de Matte; Winter Palace; Venise;
Isles Brittaniqnes; Balmoral; d'' Orient; de Russie;
du Louvre; des Anglais; Riviera Palace; Gap
Martine ; Beau Rivage). The old town keeps
fts feudal aspect, with narrow and winding streets,
on a promontory dividing the bay. The new town is
on a long street, iDarallel with the hill. See grand
view from ruins of Castle (1402) ; St. Julian Gate ;
Palajzzo ; and Public Garden. Climate more equable
than at Nice or Cannes, and very tonic ; and availed
of by very many people with lung or bronchial
troubles. Beautiful excursions in vicinity. Cor-
niche road hence to Nice (18f M. ; 3-4 In-s.) through
most exquisite coast scenery.
Near Monte Carlo stat. is famous Casino {Riviem
Palace; Balmoral Palace; des Anglais ; Grand;
Metropole), with magnificent palace for con-
certs, decorated theatre, very elaborate gardens, and
Gaming Establishment. Great numbers of fashiona-
bles here, from December to May.
Monaco (Beau Sejour; de la Condamine; Nice),
the capital of a Lilliputian principality, under
French protection, stands on a bold rock nearly sur-
rounded by the sea. The ancient Palace of the Princes
(open daily; small fee) has sumptuous rDoms and good
frescos. Bathing establishments at foot of rock, and
new hotels. Pleasant promenades, mild winter cli-
mate, and sea bathing in summer. Between Monaco
398 NICE. - CANNES.
and Nice is Villafranca, winter headquarters of
American navy in European waters.
Nice {Q-raiid Hotel des lies Britanniques ; Beau
Sejour; de Nice ; des Anglais ; Grande Bretagne ;
Riviera Palace; Imperial; Terminus; Alhambra;
Regina ; Pare Hotel), a handsome and well built
city (135,000 inhab.), with an Italian aspect, is the
chiei of the fashionable winter-resorts on the Mediter.
ranean coast, and lias an extremely soft and agreeable
climate, and lovely environs. England and Germany,
Kussia and xlraerica, send many invalids here. The
brilliant winters are succeeded by very dull summers.
It was originally a Greek colony ; then Provenpal,
Savoyard, Sardinian, and French. Massena was bora
in house No. 21 Quai St. Jean Baptiste ; Garibaldi,
at No. 4 Rue Cassini. Paganini died at No. 14 Rue
de la Pi'efecture ; Halevy, at No. 5 Rue de France.
The world-renowned Promenade des Anglais extends
along the bay for 1^ M., bordered by beautiful villas
and public establishments. .See Place Massena, with
bronze statue of Massena ; Jar din Puhlupie, with palm
groves and good band-music ; Place des Phociens, and
antique Greek fountain ; remains of Castle, on hill of
palm and orange groves, with magnificent view over
sea and mts.; old and new Hotels de Fille ; Palace o/
Prefecture ; ancient Lascaris Palace ; Natural-History
Museum ; Public Library ; and Marble Cross. Many
charming excursions to Villafranca, Montboron, ChX"
teau Neuf St. Pons, CiwAes, etc. (consult hotel-porters,
most of whom speak Englisli). It is 6 hrs. hence,
by express (26 fr. 70 c., 20fr. 75 c., 15fr. 20c>. to
Marseilles. A series of tramway lines are now in
operation on the coast in the neighborhood of Nice
and Monte Carlo.
Cannes {Hotel Splendide, in the town; Gallia,
Beau Sejour, \\\ E. quarter; des Princes, \du Pare.
I
TOULON.-MARSEILLES. 399
in W. quarter ; Continental, on the hills ; Gonnet^
Gray and Albion, in S. quarter ; Grande-Bre-
tagiie, at Le Cannet) is one of the most popular
and attractive Mediterranean winter resorts, sheltered
from the winds, and frequented by people whose lungs,
are delicate. The English and Russians monopolize it,
and the latter have many handsome villas in vicinity.
Magnificent sea views, iucluding the lies de LerinSy
where, on lie S. Mai'guerite, the Man with the Iron
Mask was imprisoned (1687-98), and Marshal Bazaine
escaped (1874). On lie S. Honorat, ruins of one of
the most famous mediaeval monasteries. Near Cannes
IS Antibes, a very picturesque old coast town, sur-
rounded by walls and defended by a f(»rt; and Golfe
Jouan, where Napoleon landed from Elba.
The Marseilles ily. goes on to Frejus, with ruins of
Roman theatre, amxphitheatre, Grilded Grate, and aque-
duct (25 M. long). From La Pauline stat. branch
rly. to Hyeres, a favorite health resort in winter,
with picturesque rocky islets off-shore and lofty mts.
behind. Toulon {Grand Hotel; Victoria; De la
\Paix; Du Word) is the chief French naval station
(77,000 inhab.) on the Mediterranean, on a deep
double harbor, sheltered by Cape Sepet and defended
by 11 forts. It beat off an Austrian and Italian anny
in 1707; but Bonaparte wrested it from an English
garrison in 1793. See Arsenal-gate, with statues;
Maritime Museum ; Puget's statue of Renown ; prison,
founded by Colbert in 1682, now depot of prisoners
sentenced to transportation j Hotel de VilJe, with
sculptures, and in front a stntuo of Genius of Navi-
gation; ancient Cathedral, with sculptures by
Canova, Mignard, and Puget, and noble view from
Batterie du Salut. It is 41 \ M. hence to
Marseilles {Hotel d^ Noailles; des Negociants; du,
Louvre et de la Paix; Terrninua), the foremost mari-
time city (503, 0(X) inhnb.) of France, which has a long
and narrow inn&y iiarboi*,with latge modern docks out-
400 MARSEILLES. — CHATEAU D'IF.
^1
side. It was founded by Greeks or Phoeni^'ans, b.c. 600,
under the name of Massilia ; defeated the Carthagin-
ians ; established many colonies along the coast ; was
conquered by Csesar, Visigoths, Pranks, Saracens, and
Spaniards ; and in 1481 was annexed to France. Here
u^ere born Thiers, Gozlain, Puget, and Mery. The
Marseillaise call tlieir La Cannebiere the finest street
in the world. This line of streets runs N. W. from the
ancient harbor, by the handsome Bourse, with statues
of eminent pre-Christian Massilian (Greek) navigators;
the Place Roijale ; across the shady Cours de VAthenee
(statue of intrepid Bishop Belsunce), which leads to
Triumphal Arch, with sculptures of Napoleon's victories,
and to rly. stat. ; across Cours St. Louis, whicli runs
under various names 2\ M. to the N. E. ; and out to
Zoological Garden, near which is the handsome Long-
clianips Museum (open, 10-4), where an Ionic colon-
nade joins tlie Natural-History Museum to the Picture-
Gallery.
See immense Docks ; Canal, which cost Sl2,000,000 ;
Ch. of Notre Dame de la Garde, on steep and far-view-
ing hill; splendid new Byzantine Cathedral ; old Ca-
thedral, on ruins of Temple of Diana : palatial Hotel
de la Prefecture; Palais de Justice; Transport B'ge.
In suburbs, visit noble Corniche road. The
Chateau d'lf, built by Francis I. on an island in the
harbor, was made famous by Dumas's Ilonte Crista.
Steamsliips of Messageries Maritimes, Valery Frferes,
Fraissinet & Co., and other lines, make Marseilles their
chief port, and run to Messina, Athens, Constantinople ;
to Syra, Smyrna, Constantinople, Odessa,— returning by
Athens & Naples ; to Salonica ; to Naples & Alexandria ;
to Port Said, JaflEo, Beyrout, and Syrian coast ; to Trebi-
zond ; to Madras and Calcutta ; to Suez, Aden, Singapore,
Hong-Kong, Shanghai, Yokohama (fortnightly! ; to Al-
ARLES. — NIMES. 401
giers ; to Barcelona ; to Nice, Genoa, Leghorn, Civdt^
Vecchia, and Naples ; and occasionally to New York.
From Marseilles the tourist may readily enter Spain by way
of Barcelona (see page 4j05j.
Aries, Nimes, Avignon, and Lvons.
Rly. from Marseilles to Paris in 16-18 hrs. (fares, 106 fr.
35 c., 79 f". 80 c.). Train leaving at 8.30 a.m. is due at
Paris at 11.19 p.m.
The route leads through vineyards and olive-groves,.
among which are ancient villages, to Aries (^Grand
Hotel da Forum ; Dn Nord), a venerable Roman town
. (26,000 inhab.) near the Gamargue, or delta of the
Rhone. The Roman Amphitheatre (b.c. 43) is 1,500 ft.
around, with seats for 25,000 spectators, fine arcades,
and dens for wild beasts. It has been a fortress of the
Goths, Saracens, and Eranks, some of whose towers are
still standing. The remains of the Roman Theatre are
very interesting. See also famous Roman cemetery
of Ghamps Mijsees (mentioned by Dante) ; columns in
Place da Forum; ruins of Thermse, and of Gonstan-
tine's Palace; Roman Obelisk of Alpine granite, set
up here in 1676 ; Museum (in old ch. of S. Anna) of
Roman statues aud antiquities ; 7th-century Gathedral^
with fine portal and interesting cloisters ; viaduct with
32 arches; and (2| M. N. E.) imposing ruins of for-
tress-abbey of Montmajour, on a high rock. The
women of Aries are celebrated for beauty.
Fares, Marseilles to Aries, 10 fr. 60 c., 7fr. 90 c.,
5fr. 80 c. Erom Aries, via Tarascon, to Nimes, ifr.
85 c., 3fr. 60 c., 2fr. 60 c.
Nimes {Hotel du Luxembourg ; Du Midi) the birth-
place of Guizot and Nicot (whence nicotine), has
80,000 uiliab. It was ouce a sacred spot in a Druidical
402 TARASCON. — AVIGNON.
forest ; conquered by Home, B.C. 121 ; and at lime of
Keformation, scene of fierce religious M^ars. No other
Frencli town has such noble Roman remains. The
well-preserved Amphitheatre (b.c. 140) has 35 rows of
seats and 121 exits, and is 1,300 ft. arouinl and 74 ft.
high. It was made a fortress by Visigoths and Sara-
cens ; and afterwards contained a large village. The
Maison Carrie is a Roman temple, 88 X 42 ft. in area,
with 30 exquisite Corinthian columns. Founded prob-
ably by the Antonines, it became afterwards a cli., and
then a town-hall ; and is now a Museum, with antique
mosaics and sculptures, and several score of modern
paintings. The Capitol at Richmond, Ya., was mod-
elled on plan of Maison Carree. See also ancient Tern-
fie of Diana (or Ni/mphatmi) , and Roman Baths, below
the huge and far-viewing Tourmagne, on Mount Cava-
lier, adorned with promenades ; 2 of rhe Roman town-
gates ; Fountain ; and Boulevards.
Tarascon {Hotel des Empereurs ; Du Petit Louvre)^
the city of the troubadours, and of King Rene of
Anjou (13,500 inhab.), has notable Castle, Ch. of S.
Marthe, Chapel of St. Gabriel, and Rue des Arcades.
Avignon {Hotel de VFrnrope) is a handsome city
(38,000 inliab.) on the Rhone, with an imposing and
well-preserved wall (1349-68) of huge masonry, and
many gates. On the Rocher des Dons, 300 ft. high,
stands the 14th-century Cathedral, with tombs of 2
popes ; La Glaciere, an ancient square prison-tower of
the Inquisition, where many martyrs have died; the
Papal Palace (now a barrack), a huge and fortress-like
pile, 100 ft. high, with frowning towers and a chapel
frescoed by Memmi (about 1330) ; the old Papal Mint,
etc. Splendid view of Rhone and city from adjacent
public gardens. The golden age of Avignon was dur-
ing 1305-77, when 7 popes dwelt there, with all the
VAUCLUSE. — VIENNE. 403
Pontifical court. In 1351 Petrarch was a guest in the
Palace, and Rienzi lay bound in its dungeons. At foot
of Rocher des Dons is the Grande Place, with hand-
some Theatre and Hotel cle Ville. See also Calvet
Museum (1 fr.), with Roman antiquities, library, and
picture-gallery ; Bridge, of which but 4 arches remain ;
Monimie?it to Petrarch's Laura; 17th-century Hotel
Crillon; and Ch. of Grands Carmes.
Vaucluse is 12 M. distant by rly. to Vlle-sur-
Sorgues, whence 4 M. by road. Here is the fountain
of which Petrarch sang. The Pont du Gard, W. of
Avignon, is one of the grandest Roman works in
existence. It is an aqueduct of 3 lines of arches,
over the desolate Gard Valley, built probably by
Agrippa.
Beyond Avignon the Paris rly. passes Orange
{Hotel de la Paste et des Princes), a Roman colony,
and afterwards capital of principality (imtil 1702),
with large Roman Theatre (20,000 sittings) and
Triumphal Arch. Near Pierrelatte are many Roman
remains. Montelimart has famous mineral springs.
Livron is famous for its defence by the Huguenots
against Henri III. in 1574. Valence {Hotel de la
Croix) is a picturesque town (20,000 inhab.), with
Roman ruins ; Cathedral with tomb of Pius VI. ;
Museum; and Maison des Tetes. Vienne {Hotel du
Nord; De la Poste), "a little French Manchester"
(25,000 inhab.), on the Rhone, has Roman Temple of
Augustus, with 16 Corinthian columns; 6th-century
basilica of S. Pierre: venerable Cathedral, etc.
Lyons {Grand Hotel; de Rome; des Beaux- Arts;
Bellecour; Terminus; Etrangers), the second city
and chief manufacturing place of Trance (400,000
inh.), is at the confluence of the Rhone and Saone, and
is of vast importance, commercially and strategically.
The Perrache is the quarter between and reclaimed
404 LYONS.
from tlie 3 rivers ; and containing handsome rlj. stat..
Arsenal, Barracks, Custom House, and Ch. of St.
Blandine. See 13tli-century Cathedral, with fapade by
Philibert Delorme, and noble tower; Museum (open
9-3), with Roman antiquities and statues, library, and
large picture-gallery (see Perugino's Ascension) ; Grand
Theatre; noble view from ]jilg:rimas;e-ch. oi Notre Dame
ds Fourviere, on heights ; Hotel de Ville (1647), neal"
scene of massacres of 1794 ; Civic Library, 180,000
vols. ; Palace of Commerce, with industrial museum ;
Hotel Dieu ; great tobacco-factories ; new Bellecour
Theatre ; 10th-century cb. of Abbey of Ainay, on site
of Caligula's school of rhetoric; handsome Tete d'Or
park ; Ch. of S. Jean, of 12th century ; and Place
Bellecour. There are 16 bridges over the rivers ; and
the adjacent heights are covered with great forts.
Rly. from Lyons to Geneva, 4| hrs. (fares, 20 ft'.
65 c, 15^ fr., 11 fr. 35 c.) ; and to Besanfon (fares,
29 fr. 20 c, 21 fr. 85 c, 16 fr. 5 c.) . Besan9on {Hotel
de Paris) is one of the strongest fortresses in France
(48,000 inhab.), with noble Cathedral, Archiepiscopal
Palace, Granvelle Palace (1: 'i34), Roman Arch, and
Library (120,000 vols.).
Express trains, Lyons to Paris. Q-10 hrs., by Macon^
Chalons-sur-Saone, Dijon, etc.
Montpellier, Cette, and Perpign^n, see pages 405-6.
Biarritz and Bayonne, see page 433.
Pau, Cauterets, Bordeaux, Arcachon, Angoulemey Poh>
tiers, ToulousCy Vichy ^ etc., see pages 436 et seq.
SPAIN. 405
A ROUND TRIP IN SPAIN.
THE tourist who can give ten days for a visit to
the most important points in Spain will never have
occasion to regret it. He will find it among the most
interesting and instructive of his journeys in Europe.
Prom Marseilles we recommend you to go directly to
Barcelona, from tliere to Valencia, and thence via La
Encina to the Alcazar de San Juan. From this point
you may go S. to Seville and Cordova, from Cordova to
Grenada, from Grenada to Malaga, all this by rail :
then from Malaga by steamer to Gibraltar ; from Gib^
raltar to Cadiz, from Cadiz to Seville, from Seville to
the Alcazar de San Juan : from thence to Madrid, taking
on the way the ancient city of Toledo ; and from Madrid
N. to Erance by Avila, Valladolid, Burgos, and Irun :
thence to Bordeaux and Paris. That does not include
several points of interest, such as for instance Saragossa,
Alicante, Salamanca, etc. ; but it gives a capital idea
of the chief beauties of Spain. Even to those who feel
that they cannot spend the time to go S. to Seville,
Grenada, Malaga, and Gibraltar, we would recommend
to try the route to Barcelona, Valencia, Toledo, and
N., being satisfied with half of Spain if they cannot
see the whole. As for the journey to Portugal and
especially to Lisbon we sliall simply point out the route,
as most vacation tourists will find it too lengthy.
Between Marseilles and Barcelona you pass through
JVEontpellier {Hotel Neoet ; Du Midi ; Delmas ;
G-ranS, Here is a Cathedral founded in 1364 by Ur-
ban V. ; a school of medicine with fine entrance flanked
with a colossal bronze statue representing Barthez and
406 GERONA. — BARCELONA.
La Peyronnic; a library of 50,000 vols., a good mu-
seum (open Sun., Mon., and fete days, ll-3j ; a public
library, 60,000 vols. ; and many beautiful fountains,
statues, gardens, and proineimdes : — Cette/one of tbe
most industrious and dirtiest cities of Southern France,
noted for its exports of wine, for its museum of natural
history, and its botanical garden : — Narhonrte, and
Perpignan, an old French town with a Spanish aspect.
The Spanish frontier is reached at Cerhere, in the midst
of a wildly beautiful country ; baggage inspection not
severe. The only point of special importance through
which you pass on your way to Barcelona is
Gerona {Fonda Italiana), a large town divided into
two sections, upper and lower, by the river Oila. Noble
view here of the Pyrenees and the distant mountains.
The porch of the Cathedral is reached by a monumental
staircase of 86 steps. The interior forms one single
nave, nearly 200 ft. long, sustained by immense pilkrs,
formed of little columjis almost detached from each
other. Many interesting tombs here. The chief altar
is one of the richest in Spain. The Bishop's Palace is
very fine. Churches of San Pedro de los Galligans
iind San Feliu are worth seeing. The Capucin Con-
vent contains a small Arabic monument of wonderful
nitricate workmanship. From Gerona it is 65 M. to
Barcelona (Grand Hotel; Inglaterra; Falcon y
Central; del Oriente; Continental; Peninsular), one
of the most enterprising as well as one of the most
beautiful cities (500,000 inh.) in Southern Europe. Its
appearance quite contradicts any impressions that one
may have of the slovenliness and lack of energy of the
modern Spaniards, impressions, alas ! confirmed later
on by the aspect of more southward towns, Barcelona
is the residence of a Captaim General and of the civil
governor of the province of Catalonia. The clima*:e \s
jj J^imj^^ieVVest O I.oiigitud^ EcLst 2.
SPAIN, 407
temperate both in summer and winter. The new part of
, the city, .notably in the Gracia quarter, will remind
I America,ns of the more beautif ui sections of Boston and
of Washington. The Rambla is the principal promenade
of the city, and at noon and in the evening is thronged
' with all classes of the population. It runs from the Plaza
, de la Paz iColumbiis Monunwiit) to the Plaza ds Cataiuna,
[ and from, here stretches out the beautiful Gracia avenue,
I which unites the city to a suburb of the same name. The
I University with its 150,000 volumes is on the Plaza de la
i tJniversidad, a short distance N.W. from the Cataiuna
Plaza. Among other squares are the Heal, with interest-
ing shops ; tlie Medina CeJi, with statue of Marquet ; del
Rey, with the Provincial Museum and Palace of the
Archives ; de la Constitucion, with the Gasa Consistorial
( and the Casa de la Diputacion ; de Palacio, with fine
marble fountain. From tlie latter a short avenue leads to
the Parque de la Ciudadela^ in which are the Palace, the
Pantheon, and an unimportant Museode Reproducciones.
The Lyceo, said to be the largest theatre in the world, is
built after the model of La Scala, at MUan. The Lonja,
or Exchange, is of monumental aspect. The Casa de la
Diputacion, on the Palace of the Constitution, was built
in the 16th century ; fine portal. On the side fronting on
the Calle del Obispo is the exquisite fagade of the cliapel
of St. George, Gothic in style. The Hall of the Diputacion
has many fine paintings ; among others a number of the
best works of Fortuny. Opposite is the Casa Consistorial,
a Gothic edifice (1378). The patio, or courtyard, is
much admired. The Custom House, Casa Aduana,
is near the old royal palace. The Archives of the
Crown of Aragon in the Plaza del Rey is a superb
historical collection dating back for ten centuries.
408 BARCELONA.
The Cathedral dates from the first centuries of the
Church. It is dedicated to S. Eulalia. The first
biiilding" was erected by Raymond BerAnguer I.
in 1058, but only part of that remains. The
interior has three vast naves, ogival in style. The
chief altar is in a sort of temple, supported by sculp-
tured columns : at the top is a Christ upon the Cross.
Beneath the ch. is a crypt, with a chapel in which are
said to repose the remains of S. Eulalia : beautiful
stained glass windows here. The side door on the r,
leads into the cloister, which is marvellously decorated
in the style of the 15th century. Notice the ironwork
on the doors of the chapels : also the tomb of the dwarf
buffoon of King Alfonso V. of Aragon. There are
numerous other chs. of interest. Among the most strik-
ing is S. Maria del Mar, a fine Gothic edifice. The
Provincial Museum contains some good paintings by
Villodomat, some by the Caracci, and works of Kibera
and other masters. The Museo Arqueologico, in the ch. of
Santa Agneda, is interesting. The Museo Estrucli
contains an interesting collection of weapons. On an
isolated hill stands the Castle of Montjuich^ which
can contain a garrison of about 10,000. Barcelonetta
is a little suburb chiefly inhabited by fishermen and
workmen in the marine establishments. Gracia is a
favorite residence of the wealthier people of Barcelona.
An excursion should be made to the immense rocky
mass of 31onserrat, which rises in the midst of the
Catalonian plain, to the height of about 3,500 ft. above
the level of the sea, at a distance of 31 M. from Barce-
lona. It may be reached from the stat. of Martorell,
on the Tarragona line, or much more easily from Mo-
nistrol, on the Saragossa rv.,from which a carriage rd.
and mt. ry. lead to the Monastery on summit of the
mt. Of the old monastery founded in 880 nothing is
left but a few walls and one or two towers in Byzantine
SPAIN. 409
style, dating from tlie I5tli century. The present raon
asteiy is composed of immense buildings, 8 stories high,
without special character. The ch. is beautified with a
portico, rich with statues and columns. The renown
of the Virgin of Monserrat is too well known to need
mention here. From the top of the mt. there is a
splendid view of immense extent over the hills of Ar-
agou, the Pyrenees, the Mediterranean shore, and in
very clear weather as far as the Balearic Islands. There
are several grottos filled with stalactites in the Mon-
serrat mass.
The Balearic Islands. — There is regular com-
munication between Barcelona and Palma, the capital
of the old Kingdom of Majorca, and the chief town of
the province which to-day bears the name of Bale-
ares, and whicb comprises the islands of Majorca,
Minorca, Ivica, and several others. Palma is a pretty
town with narrow streets, in the midst of a delight-
ful country. There are a few fine buildings in it.
See Lonja, or old Exchange, begun in 1436, finished
22 years later : the Citadel, built at the close of the 16th
century : the Palace of the Captain General : the Cathe-
dral, founded 1230, finished 1601. Majorca pretends
to be the cradle of the Bonaparte family, because an
ancestor of that house, Hugo Bonaparte, a native of
Majorca, went in 1411 to Corsica as governor in the
name of King Martin, when that island bf^longed to the
Crown of Aragon : — In the Island of Minorca, Fort
Mahon is the principal town, much frequented by navi-
gators of all nations. The English were there for a
long time, and quitted the island only in 1782.
Erom Barcelona those who have time may find it
interesting to visit Saragossa.
410 SARAGOSSA.
Saragossa {Fonda cle Uuropa ; Las Cuatro
Nacioiies) ; existed in the time of the Romans.
Augustus Caesar founded a military colony there^ to
which he gave the name of Csesarea Augusta, whence
the contraction Saragossa. The ry. stats, are some dis-
tance outside the town, which has a population of
92,000, and is situated on the 1. bank of the Ebro. It
is renowned for its obstinate resistance to the army of
Napoleon during the memorable siege of 1808, and still
shows marks of bullets on its walls. The Gate ofNues-
tra Senora del Carmen is a noble memorial of the siege.
From the stone bridge which unites the town with the
suburb of Altabas there is a fine view of the city and
the Ch. of Our Lady del Pilar. This is the object of
fervent devotion on the part of Spanish Catholics.
According to tradition a chapel was built here about the
year 40 of the Christian era by the orders of the Yir-
gni herself, who brought to it the pillar and the statue
so much venerated to-day. Even when the mauso-
leums were injured at Saragossa, this chapel and
the pillar were preserved. The first stone of the
present ch. was laid in 1681. The interior is rather
naked and cold. There are, however, some beautiful
marble columns upholding the sculptured vault. In
the Sacristy is a fine Ecce Homo attributed to Titian.
The Ch. of San Salvador, or the Seo, that is, the Epis-
copal seat, is considered, however, as more important
than the first mentioned one. It is sumptuously orna-
mented, and the mysterious twilight in the 5 naves has
an impressive effect. Beautiful sculptures here repre-
senting the history of the Saviour, of the adoration of
the Magi, the Ascension, etc. ; also several fine tombs.
The Trascoro is the work of the celebrated sculptor
Tudeiilla, and the chapels are very rich. The subter-
ranean ch. of Santa Engracia, where repose the
SPAIN. 411
remains of inany Christian martyrs, who were slain by
»he soldiers of Diocletian, is interesting. The ch. was
nearly destroyed by an explosion in 1808. The other
chs, are too numerous to mention. The Casa Muni-
cipal, the Exchange, with its vast rectangular hall,
formed by 24 beautiful columns in four rows ; the
Ch. of San Pablo ; the Aljaftria, which was a pal-
ace of pleasure for the Arab kings; tlie Bull Ring; a
great number of beautiful private residences ; the
V diversity, wliich has a library of 25,000 vols. ; some
convents and hospitals ; and the suburb of Santa
Engracia, may all be readily seen in the course of half
a day. From the little hills in the neighborhood there
are very pretty views. On t*" 3 way from Barcelona to
Saragossa you pass through
Lerida {Fonda Suiza; VeEJspana). Prom here
there is rail to Tarragona. The old Cathedral is a
magnificent mass of Byzantine Gothic remains, mixed
with various Arabic styles ; picturesque and rich
cloister. The new Cathedral, built under Charles III.,
is a fine Corinthian edifice with 3 naves, surrounded
with a great number of chapels and many fine altars.
The excursion to Saragossa is rather out of the
limits which we had assigned for a brief journey
through Spain. "We recommend the tourist to go
through Tarragona along the coast to Valencia. You
leave Barcelona very early in the morning and reach
Valencia about 8 or 9 in the evening. Take your
provisions with you from the hotel. The journey
affords a fine series of contrasted views of Spanish
scenery. After leaving Tarragona you pass through
remarkably wild scenery along the base of rocky mts..
413 TARRAGONA. — VALENCIA.
and then descend into the delicious landscape in tlie
neighborhood of Valencia, filled with groves ot
oranges and lemons, and with a great variety of semi-
tropical shrubs.
Tarragona {Paris; Europa; del Castro) is a very-
old town of about 80,000 inhab., once the centre of
the Roman power in Spain. Not far away are the
sites of some of Hannibal's battles. The Paseo de
Santa Clara is built over the remains of the Roman
walls. Very ancient gates here. Some of the modern
residences are built with the debris of temples and of
Roman palaces. The Place of the Constitution is on
the site of an old Roman circus. The Cathedral is
Gothic in style ; interior vast, aspect majestic,
ornaments sober but heavy, pillars shrouded in
old Italian tapestries, many marble tombs and
statues ; beautiful cloisters. In a chapel are
the remains of Don Jaime !„, King of Ara-
gon, and his wife. Old Aqueduct here. The next
place of importance is Tortosa, a strongly fortified city
on the 1. bank of the Ebro (25,000 inhab.). Imposing
fortifications. Cathedral of little importance. Shortly
before reaching Valencia you pass Murviedro, near
which are the ruins of the celebrated and ancient city
of Saguntum. If you go to these ruins, visit them at
midday. The population is not aggressive, but there
have been brigands in the neighborhood.
Valencia {Hotel de Paris ; Cuatro Naciones :
JEspana; Oriente; Roma) is the chief town (170,000
inhab.) of the province of the same name, the residence
of a captain general and of the archbishop. It is
beautifully situated in the midst of a great number of
groves and gardens. About 2| M. distant is its port,
called El G-rao, which is accessible for large steam-
ships. Valencia may be seen in short time. The first
impression of it is not imposing, but the beauties of its
SPAix. 413
natural situation and its arcliitecture grow upon one.
The principal squares are those of the Constitution,
where is the city hall ; that of S. Francisco; that of S.
Domingo, a market-place, which is well worth spending
an hour or two in when the peasantry from the neigh-
boring mts. are there ; the celebrated Exchange aud
the Silk Hall. The Audiencia is a fine building of the
16th century. The prmcipal halls are ornamented with
good portraits. The Archiepiscopal Palace is con-
nected with the Cathedral by a bridge. The Cathedral
dates from 1262. The largest tower is called M Migue-
lete, from the name of the big bell which was baptized
in the name of S. Michael. Prom the platform o? the
tower, splendid view of the sea aud the coast. The
interior is formed of 3 vaulted naves supported by
square pillars with Corinthian capitals. High mass in
this ch. is a splendid spectacle. Visit the Sala Capitu-
lar, immense quantity of relics, ornaments, archives,
books, and MSS. The Ch. of S. Catalina has an old
mosaic. Its tower is beautiful. In the Ch. of S. Juan
del Hospital is the tomb of one of the empresses of
Constantinople. The old home of the Jesuits is occu-
pied by the civil government. Very fine hospitals
here. The University buildings are not remarkable.
In the CJiurcJh of Corpus Christi is a beautiful Cena
by Ribalta. An invisible mechanism winds up this
j canvas and opens 4 great curtains showing a superb
crucifix, which is much venerated by the Valencians.
The Provincial Museum is in the old convent del
Carmen (9-4); it contains numerous old pictures,
though few of great merit. The Theab^e is large,
but without character. The Bull Ring is immense.
The principal promenades are the Alameda^ the
Botanical Garden and the Glorieta. Pretty walks
by the banks of the river. In the tobacco-factory.
414 ALICANTE. — ALBACETE.
3500 women are occupied. The Valencian women
are renowned for their beauty. From Yalencia yot
may go to Alicante via La Encina.
Alicante {Fonda de Bossid) is a fine seaport (40,000
inhab.). The town has no remarkable architectural
features. The streets are large and well paved. The
Alameda de la Reina is pretty. The Cit^ Hall, flanked
with 4 towers, is quite imposing. Neither of the 2
chs. is worth much study. The Convent of S. Clara,
or of the Holy Face, as it is called, possesses a much
venerated relic, the handkerchief with which S. Tero-
nica wiped the sweat from the brows of the Saviour.
The Citadel of S- Barbara is supposed to be impreg-
nable. You may also go to Alicante by Alcoy and
Jativa. This last mentioned town is beautifully situ-
ated on a mt. -chain, overlooking a magnificently culti-
vated plain. On the flanks of the hills are the walls of
an old fortress. A French writer says that the rly.
here seems to be the alley through a region of gardens.
Returning from Alicante to La Encina you may take
ticket to the Alcazar de S. Juan, or directly to Madrid.
On the way you pass
Aibacete {Fonda Francisquillo), renowned for its
manufacture of knives. Specimens of the merchandise
are always offered by pedlers to passengers on the
trains. The Alcazar de S. Juan is where the lines to
Andalusia and to Portugal branch off from the main
line from Madrid to Valencia. It is an old town which
the Order of the Knights of St. Juan made its head-
quarters. Decent refreshment-room here. Attend
carefully to your baggage. From the Alcazar de S.
Juan to Cordova the journey is one of the most inter-
esting in Spain, and descends into Andalusia. At Ilaii*
zanares the line to Ciudad Real and Portugal branches
off. You pass through Yal de Penas, whence you get
SPAIN. 415
a good view \jf the Sierra Morena. Between the Alca-
zar and the Val de Peuas lies much of the country
described in Bon Quixote. Many interesting points on.
the line. Notice Almuradiel, and Vilches, near which
is the great plain wliere in 1212 a Christian army
defeated the great Mussulman liordes under the com-
mand of Mahomed al Nassr. At Mengibar there is a fine
bridge over tlie Guadalquivir. At Andujar there is
little of importance to be seen except tlie large ch, in
what is known as the Plateresqne style of architecture,
Cordova.( Fonda Bspafiolaj Suizaj Fonda de Oriente)
is -an old town of 55,000 inhab., situated in a delicious
plain on the r. banli ot the Guadalquivir, in full view of
the slopes of the Sierra Morena. Cordova has a sumptu-
ous museum of antiquities : a great collection of edifices
of aU epochs ; and is divided into two parts by one long
street, the Calle de la Feria, the principal artery for the
commerce of the city. The walls which still surround
it are flanked with towers, octagonal, cylindrical, or
square, which were the work of successive generations of
Saracen and Christian architects. The Plaza de la Con-
stitucion is gurrounded by fine buildings. The old stone
bridge over the stream is attributed to Octavius Au-
gustus. The principal objects of interest are the
Old Alcazar, and the garden of the Moorish kings,
adjacent to it. Por permission to enter address the
porter. The New Alcazar is to-day a prison. The
Episcopal Palace is built of very rich materials, but not
in remarkably good taste : fine gardens and good li-
brary. Curious collection of portraits of all the bishops
of Cordova. Near this palace is the Triunfo, a hand-
some marbL monument, surmounted with a column
which bears a gilded bronze statue of St. Raphael. A
great number of the houses in the city are ornamented
with inscriptions in honor of emperors, consuls, raagis-
416 CORDOVA.
trates, etc. The modern Bull Ring is near the rly.
station.
The Mosque, now the Cathedral, is certainly one
of the most remarkable edifices in the world. It
was founded in 786 by Abdurrahman I., and com-
pleted finally in 990. The exterior is rather gloomy;
the courtyard within, remarkably beautiful. It has
colonnades on 3 sides, with fountains in the centre ;
and is planted with orange and cypress trees. The
interior of the Cathedral has been somewhat aptly
described as a ^'marble grove." The roof is sup-
ported by a vast number of slender pillars, beau-
tifully wrought with Corinthian capitals and shafts
of various colored marbles, of jasper, porphyry,
-etc. The principal entrance, called the Puerta
del Perdon, opens into the beautiful Court of
Oranges. The Milirah, or the Holy of Holies,
is very curious. The Mosque was converted into
a Cathedral on the 25 th of June, 1236. In the
Colegiata de San Hipolito are two urns containing
the ashes of King Alphonso XI. and his father,
Ferdinand IV. ; also the tomb of the celebrated
chronicler, Ambrosio de Morales. The chs. of S.
Pedro and of S. Marina are also worth seeing. The
Convent of S. Pablo has beautiful cloisters and a
magnificent staircase. Many otiier convents are rich
in works of art. Just outside the town is the
sanctuary of Our Lady of la Fuen Santa; great public
festival here on the 8th, 9th, and 10th of Sept. An
excursion to the Erraitas in the Sierra Morena is worth
while. From Cordova to Granada the distance is
153J M. On the way you pass Mantilla, which is one
of the most beautiful places in Andalusia. Here the
'Great Captain, Gonzalvo de Cordova, was born. At
Bohadilla a branch line to the r. goes to Malaga (re-
freshment room here). Anteguera is an old fortress,
said to have been built in Roman times. Notice
SPAIN. 417
the colossal bronze angel on the cupola of the ch. of
San Sebastian ; also the Arch of Hercules, a Roman
ruin.
Granada {Washington Irving, and Roma, near
Alhambra ; Alameda, and Victoria, in the town),
a city of 72,000 inhabitants, is world famous,
and we shall only briefly indicate the best way
to visit the Alhambra and the other curiosities of the
town ill a short time. Granada is grouped on the slopes,
of 3 hills. The Torres Bermejas, or Scarlet Towers, so
called because of their color, are on the first and the last
of these hills. The Alhambra, which is a city in itself,
covers the second and the highest. The Albaycin is on
the third, separated from the others by a deep ravine
filled with rank vegetation. Through this ravine runs
the torrent of the Darro. Granada itself is divided into
4 large sections. The modern city occupies the part of
the valley between the hills of the Albaycin and the
Alhambra. Notice the Plaza del Trlunfo, at the end
of which is the Bull Ring. On this Plaza is a white
marble column, with statue of the Virgin. Here also
are the Royal Hospital and the Concent of the Merced.
On the Plaza Nueva, reached by the Zacatin, is the fine
edifice of the Audiencia. See the Ch. of Santa Ana,
Here is a JJniversity, with rich library and a rather
inferior collection of pictures. The Cathedral, to be
seen from 8 a.m. to noon, and 3 to 5 p.m., has a fine
front ornamented with statues and bas-rehefs. Interior
has 5 naves, supported by 20 enormous pillars, formed
of columns grouped together. The Door of the Pardon
is very fine. The Camilla del Pilar is filled with beau-
tiful marbles. See the group of " Charity'' in the Sala
Capitular, the work of Torrigiani, the Florentine artist,
who was the rival of Michael Angelo. The Capilla
Mayor is one of the most richly decorated in Spain.
41b GEANADA. — THE ALHAMBRA-
The Royal Chapel was built to receive the remains of
^Ferdinand and Isabella, and here are thfiir tombs. The
two royal statues lie on the sarcophagus : two lions
repose at their feet. Here are the crown and sceptre
of Isabella, and the sword of Ferdinand. In a second
mausoleum near by are the remains of Queen Joanna,
who was insane, and of PhiHp her husband. The tower
of the Cathedral is unfinished.
The Alhambra is open daily from 9 to 13 a.m. and
2 to 4 P M. Leaviug the Plaza ISfueva you scale the
•Cuesta de los Gomeres. At the top of this street you
find the Puerta de las Granadas, a kind of triumphal
arch built by Charles V., where formerly stood an an-
cient Arabic gate. Beyond this he the groves and the
gardens which surround the Alhambra. We will simply
•enumerate the objects to be seen. The Filar de Car-
los v., ornamented with statues ; the Puerta de Juicio^
or Door of Judgment ; the Plaza de los Algibes, or
Place of the Cisterns ; the Puerta del Vino ; the Palace
of Charles V., a fine Renaissance structure, but un-
finished. The centre is occupied by a circular patio or
court, surrounded by a vaulted gallery supported by 32
Doric columns in marble. The Alhambra, a marvellous
Arabic palace, occupied a rectangle of 400 ft. long by
250 wide. It comprised 5 interior courts. The prin-
cipal fagade, which was to the N., was demolished to
make room for the Palace of Charles V. Its main
entrance opened on the Patio de los Arrayanes, and you
can only enter it to-day through a small corridor behind
the N. fagade of the Imperial palace The Hall of
the Ambassadors, the Tocador, and the Mirador, or
toilet rooms of the Queen, the Patio de la Mezquita,
the ilall of the Paths, the Patio de las Rejas, the
Court of Lions, the most precious soecimen oi
Arabesque architecture in Spain, with VZd> white
SPAIN. 419
marble columns m the galleries surrounding it, with
a floor of white marble, a noble fountain, and 13
great sculptured lions. The Halls of the Tribunal,
of the Dos Hermanas (the Two Sisters), and the Hall
of the Ahencerrages, should be carefully studied. In
the hall of the Two Sisters is the famous Alham-
bra Vase, the finest known example of Hispano-
Moresque faience. The Royal Chapel,wh\ch. is rarely
open, contains a great variety of artistic treasures. Prom
the platform of the Tower of the Vela there is an
admirable \dew. Yisit also the Adarves, a line of old
bastions transformed into gardens, also the ch. of Santa
Maria, the Towers of the Cautivas, of tlie Carceles, of
Los Slete Siielos, del Agua, de las Infantas and many
otiiers, should be carefally inspected. To visit the
Generalife jou leave by the Los Picos Gate, and go
down the hill by a route which crosses the ravine of Los
Molinos, and which then climbs the foot of the hills of
a neighboring mt. The Generalife was the pleasure
house of the Mhimbra. But little remains of it except
a few arcades and some beautiful arabesques. In one
of the few halls which are still covered with a roof, there
is a series of smoky portraits of the Kings of Spain,
which have only a chronological merit. " Prom the
Tower of the Generalife," says a French writer, " you
fancy that you can touch the Sierra Nevada, so pure
and limpid is the air through which you see that moun-
tain chain." There are a great many beautiful excur-
sions in the neighborhood of the Alhambra, but to
enjoy them one must remain in the vicinity at least a
week. The gypsy encampments in the country-side are
very interesting, but the prudent traveller will scarcely
■care to venture among them without a stout escort.
Erom Granada the distance to Malaga by rail is 119 M.
Malaga {Roma, on the Alameda; Royal Victoria f
Paris; Jnglaterra,fiecond class, butgood), with 135,000
420 MALAGA. — GIBRALTAR.
inhab., may be easily seen in half a day. The exquisite
climate and the beautiful situation of the town are its
chief attractions. The Episcopal Palace, the Cit^ Halt,
the new Custom House, the Theatre, which can contain
2,000 spectators, the vast Bull Ring, which holds
10,000, are not architecturally remarkable. The Al-
cazaba is an ancient fortress which antedates the
Arabic occupation. The Atarazana is an old arsenal
of the Moors. The Castle of Gibralfaro is on a hill to
the E. of the city. The higbest tower is an imposing
mass sustained by 4 arches and nearly 100 ft. high.
Good view from this tower. The most beautiful prom-
enade in this town is the Alameda : many pretty loun.-
taius and statues here. The Cathedral, which would be
rich in any other country, is not remarkable for Spain.
All through this country grow wheat, oats, olives, all
kinds of fruit : orange, lemon, and fig trees are abun-
dant. Try and time your visit to Granada so as to
connect with the steamer going to Gibraltar.
Gibraltar {Royal; Bristol; Grand; Huropa) is a
eity situated on a slope on the W. part of the famous
. rock and facing the bay. It has about 20,000 inhab.
exclusive of the I^nglish garrison of 6,000 men. Main.
Street is the principal artery of the town. A narrow
road connects the mainland with the rock, and this is
guarded by batteries. Trom top to bottom the mt.
is full of excavations, and out of every one looks the
mouth of a cannon. At summit is an unfinished tower,
called O'Hara's or JSt. George's. It was intended to be
sufficiently high to enable the sentinels to overlook the
Bay of Cadiz and see the movements there. In 1704
the English fleet, sustaining the rights of the Archduke
Charles of Austria to the crown of Spain against
Philip V. presented itself before Gibraltar, the lurtifi-
catious of which were then in ruins an*^ occupied by a
SPAIN. 421
garrison of 80 men. The town was taken, and
although in the name of the archduke, England
thought it proper to keep it. Various attempts to take
it back were made in 1727, 1779, and 1782, but with-
out success. ^ The fortifications can be visited with
special permission, which may be easily obtained at
the hotels. There is also a good club to which
strangers may be presented. Excursions may be made
froni Gibraltar to several interesting points on the
African coast, notably Ceuta and Tangier. Opposite
Gibraltar is the town of Algeciras {Hotel Reina
Cristina) , the occasional scene of international con-
ferences. It is a typically Spanish town situated on
a beautiful bay and commanding a fine view of the
rock and fortifications of Gibraltar.
Cadiz {Fonda de Paris; Fonda de Francia; Fonda,
ie Cadiz; de Europa) is one of the most charming of
Spanisli towns (6i,000 inliab ), It is on a peninsula,
which extends iuto the ocean, and is generally consid-
ered the most agreeable town in Andalusia. It is
strongly fortified, and its position is well calculated for
defence. Notice the Fort of S. Catalina: also the
Fort of S. Sebastian. Erom the Torre de la Figia, in the
centre of the town, you get an admirable view of Cadia
and its surroundings. Nearly all the houses are white,
and their terraces and balconies are very picturesque.
The Casas Gonsistoriales occupy fine buildings on the
Plaza de Isa,bel Segunda. The Alameda is a fine
promenade on one of the ramparts N. E. of the city.
The Park Genoves is a fine pleasure ground with sea
view. There are many colleges and seminaries,
as well as an Academy of Fine Arts and numerous
libraries. The new Cathedral, which is at the
south end of the town, is not a very success-
ful piece of architecture. A great profusion of
marbles h/» ve been used in its decora':ion, but the gen-
422 CADIZ. — SEVILLE.
eral effect is confused and disagreeable. The Treasury
is rich in relics, jewels, etc. The old Cathedral has
fallen into decay. In the chapel of the Convent of S.
Catalina are some pictures by Murillo. Steam com-
munication between Cadiz and Portugal, England, Hol-
land, the Trench and German coasts, and Mexico, is
very frequent.
You may go from Cadiz to Seville by steamboat, on
the Guadalquivir, in 8 nrs. ; fares, 15 p. ; breakfast on
iDoard from 3 to 3 p. The journey is pretty, but most
travellers will probably prefer the rail route, about
82f M. ; passing through Jerez de la Frontera, a pretty
town, enriched by commerce in wine and other products
of its generous soil. Here see curious monastery,
museum, finely decorated city hall. About 2 M. S. E.
of the town is a noted Carthusian monastery. d|
Seville {Hotel de Madrid; de Paris; de Roma;^
Europa), with 143,000 inhabitants, requires a long
visit. We will not attempt to describe it in detail,
but will simply indicate the things to see. Seville
has kept its ancient character pretty well. Most
of its streets are narrow and crooked, and nearly
all the houses have their patios, or inner courtyards,
separated from the street by vestibules paved with
white and black marble, and closed by doors of iron
gratings beautifully worked by skilful artisans. The
Plaza S. Fernando is a vast square which in the morn-
ing is inundated with sunlight, and is planted with
orange-trees, and surrounded on three sides by hotels
and boarding-houses, and on the fourth by the Palace
of the Ayuntawiento. The Calle de Genova, at the
S. W. angle of the square, leads to the
Cathedral. — This marvellous ch., with its famous
tower of the Giralda, is a city in itself. Nowhere else
in Europe is the splendor and majesty of the Catb-^Jia
SPAIN. ,t23
religion so well seen as here. The Giralda, a veritable
marvel of Arab architecture, was the minaret of the old
mosque of the Moorish Kings, who governed Seville
after the destruction of the Khalifate. It was built dur-
ing the 12th century by the Arab El Ghebir, who was
the inventor of algebra. The tower is 350 ft. high.
In 1568 it was capped with a belfry, which in its turn is
surmounted by an enormous statue of Faith, which
despite its immense weight serves as a weather-vane.
The Cathedral proper was begun in 1403, finished 1519.
The most striking entrance is the Fuerta del Perdon,
which was probably in old times the entrance to a
miuaret. It opens on the Orange Court, from v/hich
you pass nuder a fine Arabic arch into the Cathedral by
the so-called Lizard Door. Notice especially tlie Chief
Altar, the Choir, the gigantic Organs, tlie 2hmb of
Fernando Columbus, the Capilla Real, which contains
the tomb of St. Ferdinand, and the tomb of Alfonso the
Wise : also a portrait of Ferdinand, by Murillo, in the
chapel of the Baptistery. Observe the noted picture rep-
resenting St. Anthony of Padua, which Vv^as cut out of
its frame and carried off to New Yoric in 1875, and has
now been restored. In the upper sacristy there are
also several paintings by the same artist. In the
sacristy of Los Calices is a St. Dorotliea by Murillo,
an " Ecce Homo " by Morales, and a remarkable
painting by Goya. In the SacrisHa Mai/or is the
vast and magnificent custodia in silver made in 1587
by Juan de Arfe. It is in the form of a circular
temple, crowned with a statue of St. John and covered
with a most prodigious number of ornaments and
statues. Seville during Holy Week presents a con-
stant succession of curious spectacles, religious in
character. From the top ^f the Giralda Tower,
which is reached b.y an inclined plane, up which
4:24: SEVILLE. — THE ALCAZAE.
it is said two horses can be ridden abreast, ^ood view
of the town, the river winding through tlie plains,
and the hills beyond. Leaving tlie Cathedral by the
Qiralda Door, you reach the square on which is the
Archbishop'' s Palace. Thence go round the Cathedral
to the Plaza del Triunfo, where is a monument com-
memorating the earthquake of 1755. In the middle of
this square is the Lonja, where is a precious collection
of documents relative to the discovery and conquest Oi
America. This is called the Indian archives. Not far
away is
The Alcazar. — This is, with the Mosque at Cordova
and the Alhambra at Granada, the most beautiful &
Moorish monument in Spain. It was connected witl? W
the great walls that ran round Seville in the time ol
the Arabs, In the Alcazar were born and died the
Kings Alfonso the Wise, Don Sancho IV., and Alfonso
XI., father of Don Pedro the Cruel. The local guides,
who are very civil and obliging, and satisfied with
reasonable pay, will give you full description of the ||
beauties of the Alcazar. Ask the guide to take you -«
through the modern royal rooms, inhabited by the
Monarchs of Spam whenever they visit Seville. The
gardens of the Alcazar are delightful.
The Casa de Pilatos, or House of Pilate, is an
edifice built at the beginning of the 16th century, by
the first Marquis of Tarifa. Tradition says he had
brought back from a Journey made to Jerusalem in
1519 a quantity of earth from the very house of
Pontius Pilate, and this was sufficient to form the
layer on which were laid the foundations ol the
present palace, built on the plans of the dwelling
of Pilate at Jerusalem. There are a great nuni-
ber of curious and interesting palaces and pri-
vate houses to be seen in Seville. The Casa de los
SPAIN. 423
•
Taveros, where tlie tribunal of the Inquisition had its
sitting, will attract the traveller's attention. The
guides procure admission for you to the patios of the
richest houses, where you can get an idea of the luxury
and beauty of these southern Spanish residences. The
Ch. of S. Kartino has some good pictures. The B.?s-
'pifal of La Caridad, or the Charity, near the Goldeu
Tower, which stands on the bank of the Guadalquivir,
contains several of Murillo's best paintings. The pro-
vincial museuui is also quite rich in the works of
Murillo, Zurbaran, and other noted artists. Murillo
was born in Seville^ Jan. 1, 1618. The Palace of
Santelmo, the residence of the Duke of Montpensier,
is one of the marvels of this city. Its gardens now
i'orm the Parqiie 3£aria Luisa. Seville is as
busy and thriving as Cordova is deserted and shabby.
The banks of the Guadalquivir are lined with ware^^
houses, and the traffic is very brisk. From Seville, if
you adopt our plan for a short Spanish journey, we
recommend you to proceed directly to Madrid. If you
have not stopped at Cordova on your way down, but
have gone directly through from the Alcazar de S.
Juan, as many do, you may halt there on your return
journey. Time from Seville to Cordova, nearly 4 hrs.;
fares, 65 r. 60, 49 r. 30, 29 r. 45. From Cordova
to Madrid it is 2745 M. ; time by ordinary trains,
16 hrs.; fares, 321 r., 171 r., 104 r. 98. The express
rates are somewhat higher. In the late summer and
autumn months there is an express train, 3 times a
week each, way, between Madrid and Seville. Between
the Alcazar de S. Juan and Madrid is the station of
Casfillijo, where you may branch off to Toledo, but we
do not recommend this. It is better to go to Madrid
first ; then to make the Toledo visit a round-trip excui>
sion of one day. A little beyond Castillijo is
4:26 ARANJUEZ. — MADRID.
•
Aranjuez, M-itli refreshment buffet. This is one of
the summer residences of the Spanish court. Here is
apalace, beautifully situated, commanding an immense
view; but there is little that is architecturally striking
in the building. The gardens are quite remarkable.
The river Tagus flows through the domain.
Madrid (Grand Hotel de la Paz; Be Roma; Be
Paris; Fonda de los Embajadores; IngUs; Penin-
sular; ^ Cuatro Naziones; Oriente), with 510,000
mhab., is the capital of Spain, the residence of the
Court, and contains the finest paintings in Europe.
John Hay said of Madrid that it was a "capital
with malice aforethought," by which he alluded to its
situation in the midst of a great arid plain, swept in
winter by the murderous winds from the mts. We
recommend the tourist to devote liis chief attention to
the museum ; then, if his time permits, to include the
other edifices and collections of Madrid.
The Museo del Prado contains vast and absolutely
unrivalled collection of the works of the old masters,
but they are not very well arranged. Two immense
galleries are consecrated to Spanish painters, and oth-
ers contain the different Italian, French, Flemish, aud
Dutch schools. Some idea of the riches of the museum
can be formed from the statement that it contains 46
pictures by Murillo, 14 by Zurbaran, 58 by Eibera,
64 by Velasquez, 55 by Teniers, 16 by llubens, 10
by Raphael, 20 by Poussin, 66 by Luca Giordano, 22
by Yan Dyck, 54 by Breughel, 16 by Claude Lorraine,
16 by Guido Reni, 43 by Titian, 54 by Tintoretto,
and 25 by Paul Veronese, About half-way down
the principal gallery a door opens into an oval hall
called the Salon de la Reyna Isabel. Here are grouped
together the chefs d'oeuvre of the museum. The
guardians are very attentive. Catalogues edited witJi
SPAINo 427
great care may be had at the booksellers', or at the
museum.
In the Real Academia de Bellas Aries there is a
collection of about 300 pictures, in 11 large rooms:
Murillo, Goya, Rubens, and Zurbaran are well repre-
sented. The Museo de Arte Moderno contains
modern Spanish paintings and sculptures. There
are several interesting private collections in Madrid.
The couriers at the hotels will indicate them to
you.
The Royal Palace (Palacio Real) is situated in the
W. part of the town. Among the 80 rooms on the 1st
floor, the largest and finest is the Hall uf the Ambassa-
dors. The vault was painted by Tiepolo, and represents
the exaltation of the Spanish monarchy. The walls are
draped with velvet embroidered with gold, and 12 im-
mense mirrors also decorate it. On the r. of the throne,
which is guarded by 4 gilded bronze lions, is a statue of
Prudence, and on the 1. that of Justice. Tlie chapel is
extremely rich, but not very handsome. The library,
the theatre, the magnificent collection of Flemish tapes-
tries, should be seen. On the S. of the square of the Pa-
lacio Real is the Armeria (Museum of Armor), which
contains an extremely interesting collection. Here
are, among many relics of famous dead, the sword
of the Cid Campeador, that of the Great Captain, Gon-
zalvo of Cordova, and that of Don Juan of Austria:
also the helmet of Francis I, The Militarif Museum
of Artillery, at the Buenretiro, is also worth visiting.
At the entrance are colossal statues of Philip IV. and
Louis I. The museum gives a complete review of the
progress made in artillery from the 12th to the 17th
century. Here also are many flags carried during the
Spanish conquest of America The naval museum,
the cabinet of natural history, the botanical garden, the
428 MADRID.
library (small but good) deserve a visit. Madrid tas
several important libraries, most noticeable among
whicli are those of the University and of the legislative
bodies.
The Palace of the Congress, or Chamber of Deputies,
is a handsome building, but not very remarkable. Its
interior is very richly ornamented with fine paintings :
that of the Senate occupies the old ch. of an Augustin-
ian convent. In the great square of the Puerta del Sol
is the Ministry of the Interior, formerly a post-office.
The other public buildings and the Palaces are rather
cold and formal in structure. The effect of the architec-
ture of Madrid is not pleasing, compared Math the won-
derful richness of decoration to M^hich the eye has
become accustomed in Southern Spain. See in the
Plaza Mai/or the equestrian statue of Philip III. ; and
in the Plaza de Oriente the statue of Philip IV. In
the Plaza de las Cortes is a statue of Cervantes. None,
of the churches is particularly striking; the Catedrdl
de Nuestra Senot^a de la Almudena is on the site of
the old Armory, The Ch. of the Atocha, a modern
Romanesque structure, contains the tombs of General
Castanos, of Marshal Prim, and of other notabilities.
In the old church the marriages of the royal
family were celebrated, and the troops took the oath
of allegiance. The cemeteries in the neighborhood of
Madrid, with their long rows of walls in which the dead
are sealed up, are very interesting. ^h.& Plaza de Tor o>^,
or the BuH Ring of Madrid, is one of the largest in the
kingdom. It is a structure in Arabic style, built of
brick, stone, and iron, and can seat 13,300 people.
Every seat is numbered, and tickets to the bull-fights,
which are usually given every Sunday from April to
October, are comparatively inexpensive. Be careful in
choosing your place to note whether it is on the shady
or the sunny side. This is very important in Spain.
SPAIN. 429
The comic opera and some of the minor theatres should
be visited. The Prado is a large boulevard which
runs roaud a great part of the city, from the old Atocha
: gate to the Puerta de Recoletos. The Royal Museum
is on this boulevard. Here on summer evenings is a
maguiiicent display of Spanish beauty : commemorative
; monument here to the second of Ma_^ one of the epi-
1 sodes of the French occupation of 1^)8. Tliere are
j numerous other line promenades within the city. The
\ Pueria de Alcald, an arch of triumph to commemorate
j the entry of Charles III. into Madrid, may be seen on
the way to the Bull Ring. The Puerta de Toledo was
I built to celebrate the return of Ferdinand VII. from his
I captivity. The Plaza de, Madrid is quite fine.
I There are several bridges over the little river
I Manzanares, which oddly enough is for the greater
part of the year without any water in its channel.
The Puerta del Sol is a gay plaza in the centre of
the city. About 7 Mo from Madrid, on the r. bank
)f the Manzanares, is the Royal Palace of the Pardo.
Sxcursion to the Esourial may be made. It is 31-| M.
from Madrid ; five trains daily ; fares, 25 r. 50, 19 r. 25,
11 r. 50. The Escurial is called by the Spaniards the
eighth wonder of the world. Philip II. built it in 1685
to comtnemorate the taking of St. Quentin, and to ac-
complish a vow which he made to St. Lawrence. This
vast building has 15 principal entrances, and more than
1,100 windows. It is entirely built of granite, and its
appearance is monotonous and cold. The ch., the
Capilla Meyor, filled with royal monuments, the sac-
' risty, a vast vaulted hall with a marble altar orna-
mented with bronze, the choir, and the pantheon or
vault, where the kinsrs of Spain are buried, are the prin-
I cipal things to see. You reach the pantheon by a masr-
.^^cent sta i 'ease of granite and marble. The urn con-
I3G TOLEDO.
taming the remains of Charles V. was opened in 1870,
and the body was even then in perfect preservation.
The Library of books and tlie MS. Library will attract
the attention of scholars. The n)ain entrance to the
palace is in the middle of the N. fapade. See the Hall
of Battles, covered with frescos representing Spanish
conqnests ; and the apartments in which Philip II. lived
and died. The Pavilion of Charles IV., called the Casa
del Prmcipe, is a charming little mnsenm of paintings,
sculptures, and mosaics. See the King's Seat, where
Philip II. came to sit when presidiug over the work of
the palace. The royal abode of La Granja is on the
route from Madrid to Segovia. Its apartments are said
to be even more splendid than those of the palace at
Madrid.
There are two routes from Madrid to the ancient and
picturesque town of Toledo. One leads through the
royal residence town of Aranjuez ; the other is a little
more direct ; fares about the same by both lines.
Toledo {Hotel Castilla; Fonda del Worte; Fonda
de Lino; Fonda Imperial) is one of the most
remarkable towns in Europe. The riy. stat. is in the
valley at the foot of the hill, near the fine Alcantara
Bridge. An omnibus takes passengers from the train
to the top of the hill. On the way up observe the fine
view in the valley, where old Toledo, which was a town
of 200,000 inhab., was situated. The Toledo of to-day
has only about 30,000. The river Tagus makes a great
curve around the town. It is crossed by the Alcantara
and the 8. Martino Bridges. The aspect of the city is
majestic. Immense ramparts on the rocks ; great gates
flanked with Moorish towers : old Puerta Visagra,
which dates from the Arabic domination ; the celebrated
Puerta del Sol, in the interior of the city, a chef d'oeuvre '
of Arabic architecture, are all impressive. The pria*
SPAIN. 431
cipal square is the old Zocodover, to-day called the
Place of the Constitution. The principal objects of
interest are the Cathedral, the Alcazar the celebrated
Ch. and Convent of S. Juan de los Rei/es, and a military
college. The Cathedral was loegun in 1237, and finished
2\ centuries later. Its arcliitecture is pure Gothic:
exterior of great majesty. The prnicipal W. front has
3 doors, called those of the Escrilmios, the Perdon,'
and the Torre, Door of the Pardon is the largest and
richest. To the r. of the fagade is the tower : on the 1.
the Mozarabic chapel. The tower is nearly SOO ft.
high, and the great bell in it weighs nearly 40,000 lbs.
The beauties of the Cathedral are so numerous that we
renounce a detailed uescription of them here. Observe
particularly the Door of the Lions and its rich chapels,
the Capilla Mai/or, the wonderful effect of the vast
range of stained-glass windows, especially when the sun
is shining througli tliem in the morning, the Coro, a.nd
tlie beautiful Gothic portal of the Sala Capitular. The
Tombs of the Coustable Don Alvaro de Lima and of
the Cardinal de Albornoz are very imposing.
The Ch. of S. Juan de los Reyes (1477) is ornamented
with a great number of chains hung on the walls out-
side, memorials of captivities among Moslems. The
cloisters, recently restored, are among the most
beautiful in the world. The stone sculptures here are
of extraordinary delicacy and finish. The provincial
museum contains a collection of about 300 pictures.
8. Maria la Blanco, is a curious memorial of the Jewish
epoch. The Military College contains about 600 cadets,
who study their profession here from the age of 13 to
18 years. The Alcazar is a superb edifice which
Drosses the nighest point of the hill on which the city
is built. At the 4 angles of its walls are square towers.
The courtyard is formed of 33 arcades. It has been
432 VALLADOLID. - BURGOS.
three times bin'ned and three times restored. Iiv
the court is a group commemorating the conquest of
Tunis by Charles V. See the Pasto de las Rosas;
the Paseo de Madrid.
Valladolid {Francia, Calle de Teresa Gil; Siglo,
Plaza de S. Ana) is the next place of interest; although
from the junction of Medina del Campo you can go
by branch lines to the old university town of Sala-
manca, or to Zamora. Valladolid is a town of 65,000
inhab., on the Pisuerga. Here see University , Cathe-
dral, Santa Maria la Antigua, San Pablo, Colegio
de San Gregorio, Museum, and Royal Palace. The
University Library has a collection of Bibles. See
Juan de Juni's "Virgen de los Cuchillos" in the
church of Las Angustias, and house where Columbus
died in 1506. The Museum of Valladolid, which is
located in the Colegio de Santa Cruz, contains sculp"
tures in wood and examples of the works of Rubens,
Mascagni, Carducci, and Cardenas. The principal
treasure of the cathedral is a magnificent custodia,
or tabernacle, in silver.
Burgos (Hotels : Fonda del Norte; Paris), with
32,000 nihab., may be seen in a short time. Notice
\\\e Bronze Statue of Charles III. ; the celebrated Casa
del Cordoji; the Oasade Miranda, covered with sculp-
tures; the Espolon, beautifully decorated, vvdth 3 fine
alleys bordered with trees, filled with statues, gardens,
and fountains ; the Cathedral, one of the marvels of the
13th century. Its portal and 2 clock-towers are of Goth-
ic architecture. The principal fapade towards the W.
is a marvel of stone lacework. The interior is magnifi-
cent, and ornamented with pictures, statues, tombs,
sculptures, bas-reliefs, etc Observe the Tomb of the
Constable of Castille. In Ch. of S. Estehan is a very
fine Cena. Notice the Triumphal Arch raised by Philip
il, to Pemando Gonzales : also the house of the Cid,
or the monument erected in 1784 on the rums of that
SPAIN. 433
house. In the City Hall are the remaLis of the Great
Captain and his wife, enclosed in a sculptured wooden
colfin. The Arch of S. Maria is very handsome.
Many fine excursions in the vicinity of Burgos.
The towns of Vittoria, Pamplona, Bilbao, and
San Sebastian (the pretty watering-place frequented
in late years by English and Americans) all deserve
attention; but the tourist will hardly find time to
stop at any of them. The frontier of France is
reached at I?^u7i. There is little of importance to see
in Irun : memorials of the Carlist civil war in all this
neighborhood. Hendaye is the first French station.
A little beyond it is >S'. Jean de Luz. The old town
of FontaraMa may be reached from Irun.
Next comes Biarritz {Grand Hotel; Victoria et de
la Plage; HAngleterre; Pes Princes; Pes Amhas^
sadeurs; Pe V Europe; good Casino here; omnibus
to Bayonne every half hour), one of the most popu-
lar seaside resorts on the S. coast of France, It was
a favorite resort of the Empress Eugenie.
Bayonne, 23f M. from Irun {Hotel du Commerce;
St. JEtienne; Pes Anibassadeurs; Pe France;
Castille), with 27,000 inhab., is at the confluence of
the Adcur and the Nive. Fine stained glass windows
in the Cathedral, 15th century. The Place Gram^
mont po^itams the Theatre, the Mairie, and the
(yu-°tm^ House, Good view of the sea from the
citadel. The bayonet was invented here, whence its
£tame.
434 LISBON
PORTUGAL.
WE have thought it probable that the vacatioa
tourists would not be likely to push their jour-
ney as far as Lisbon, but we give a short paragrapli con-
cerning the journey to Portugal. Tares from Madrid
to Badajos,'61\\ M., 299 r. 50, 227 r. 91, 145 r. 87.
From Badajos to Lisbon it is 174^ M., 5,260 reis,
4,100 r., 2,930 r. ; time, 10 hrs. ; 2 trains a day. Lisbon
time is 25 min. slower than that of Madrid. The reis,
the Portuguese monetary unit, is about \ centime, or 2|
mills : each franc is therefore worth 200 reis. The conto
de reis, or a million of reis, is 500 francs. The Spanish
real, 25 centimes, is 46 reis. On the way from Badajos
to Lisbon you pass through Santarem, where there are
many curious remains of the Moorish architecture of
the Middle Ages.
, Lisbon, in Portuguese Lishoa {Avenida Palace;
Grand Hotel Central, situated on the Bay; Continen-
\tal; Braganga; Durand, mod. charges), with 310,000
tniiiib., is on the r. bank of the river Tagiis, built
in an amphitheatre on numerous hills. The general
view of Lisbon on approaching it by river or by rail
is magnificent. The finest streets are those of the
D'm'O do Praga Augusta, tlie Chiado, and Alecrim.
The Commercial Square, Praga do Commercio, has tlie
largest and most remarkable public buildings in the
city. It is also called the Esplanade of the Hills.
In the middle is the colossal equestrian bronze statue
of Jose I. On 3 sides of the square are sumptuous
buildings, the Exchange, the Custom House, the Post
Office,ihQ Ministries, e.tr' On the middle of the N. side.
PORTUGAL. 435
magnificent Triumphal Arch. The Cathedral, Chs. of
S. Antonio, of S. Roqiie, of the Carmelites, and many
convents have rich collections of art treasures. The
Royal Palace, or Pa^o das Necessidades, faces a small
square of the same name. See Botanical Gardens,
reported the finest m the world. Observe beautiful
aqueduct which crosses the Alcantara Valley. The
Library of the Royal Academy of Sciences, National
Museum of Fine Arts, and the San Carlos and Dona
Maria Segunda Theatres should be seen. There are
but few remains of old Lisbon, which was destroyed
by the great earthquake. The inclined plane rlys. are
convenient ; fine views on many of them. The Belem
possesses a great many fine gardens. The old Jieiem
Monastery is worth a visit. Ramalhao, the Almada
Mqfra, a vast convent ch., and the Palace of Cintra,
where is an old castle of the Moors, are the principal
suburban points for excursions. From Lisbon there is
weekly steam communication with South America, with
the East, and with England. A journey may be made
to Oporto, taking Coimhra on the way. Eares to
Oporto, 6,610 reis, 5,140 r., 3,680 r. ; time, 11-| lirs. ;
distance, 158^ M.
Coimbra {Continental; Mondego; Braganga) is on
the r. bank of the Mondego and has a most delicious
climate. It is very rich in poetic tradition and has
numerous manufactures of faience. The Homans
made it one of their most important military posts. To-
day the remains of the old walls are still to be seen.
JJniversity , with 900 students here. The old Cathedral
is Byzantine, and quite rich in character. The Chapel
of the Twelve Apostles is remarkable^ Yisit Quinfa
das Lagrimas Park with its Fonte dos Amour, where
lived Inez de Castro, sung by Camoens«
436 OPORTO. - PAU.
Oporto {Hotel Francfort; Grand Hotel; H^tel d^
Paris), with 140,000 inhab., is the second city of Por-
tugal. It is built on 2 hills, and the valleys which ex-
tend between these are filled with charming villas and
couutry-houses. The effect of the Quintas, or Terraces,
is quite delightful. The Cathedral, or La Se, is not
especially striking. The town is divided into 3 quar-
ters, the oldest of which, San Martmho, has but little of
importance. The Royal Hospital, the Ch. Bos Cleri-
gos (with its high tower), the elegant theatre, the great
barracks, the Episcopal Palace, the Ch. of Our Lady oj
Lapa, where the heart of Emperor Dom Pedro I V. is
preserved, and the interior of the Ch. of S. Francisco ;
also the libraries, 65,000 vols., the Exchange, and the
Museum, merit brief attention. Oporto is a thriving
commercial town. Erom Lisbon to Foora it is 72 M. ;
fares 3,120 r., 2,390 r., 1,610 r.
Evora is a highly fortified city of 12,000 inhab., in
the midst of beautiful fields filled with orange, olive,
and fig groves. Many Homan antiquities here. Erom
Lisbon a rly. runs to Faro, 169|- M.
Faro, on the S. coast of Portugal, is a small town of
10,000 mhab., with a good cathedral ; fine military hos-
pital, large and well-built streets, and an excellent port.
Just opposite it, in the Atlantic Ocean, is a small group
of islands.
Erom Bayonne it is 65f M. (fares, 13 fr., 9 fr.* 75 c.
7fr. 20c.)to
Pau {Hotel Oassion, a splendid edifice ; Bellevue;
Splendide; Be France; Beau Sejour; de la Poste;
Cirand Hotel; delaPaix; deVFurope. Pensions:
Colbert; Hattersley. Restaurants: Gassion, Com-
merce, de la Borade), with 29,000 inhab., is one of the
most important towns in the lower Pyrenees, and is a
favorite winter resort because of its delicious climate.
FRANCE. 437
Tjiie is rather expensive at Pan, but there are a great
number ot strangers there yearly; abundance of
beautifally lurniohed apartments to be had. The
town IS divided into 2 parts by the little brooklet
called the Grave, over which there are 5 bridges. The
Castle of Henri IV. (open dailv except Mon. from
10 to noon and from 2 to 4 p.m.), near Pau, is well
worth visiting. Magnificent Flemish tapestries made
by order of Francis L, in the great Hall of the States.
The Ch. of S. Martin, modern ; the Palace of Jus-
tice; the Museum (open Thurs. and Sun., from 1 to
5, free, and every day for a small fee) ; the Place
Roy ale, with a statue of Henri IV., may all readily
be seen in a few hours. From Pau 24 M. rly. to
Laruns, thence omnibus to Eaux-Bonnes {Hotel des
Princes ; He France ; Continental) and Haux-
Chaudes. The former town receives between 6 and
10,000 invalids and tourists annually; vast bathing
establishments here, also Casino, concert halls,
theatre, reading rooms, etc. The thermal establish-
ment at 'E&\i-x.-Qh.aM6.e% {Hotel Baudot; He France)
Is one of the best arranged in the Pyrenees. The
waters are especially successful in catarrh, rheuma-
lism, and skin diseases. For full description of this
Pyrenean bath region we cannot do better than to
refer you to the work on the Pyrenees by Adolphe
and Paul Joanne, published by Hachette, Paris.
Cauterets {Hotel Continental; He France; HAn-
gteterr&t Du Pare) may be reached via Pau and
TarDes. There are 24 springs here and 9 bathing
establishments; about 20,000 tourists visit Cauterets
annually. Beautiful excursions in the neighbor-
hood. Groing N., after leaving Bayonne, the first
place of importance is
Bordeaux {Hotel de France; I)e Bayonne; He
Faisan; Des Princes et de la Paix; Hes Americains;
438 BORDEAUX.
ConfortaMe ; Commercial), with 256,000 inhab.,
a beautiful town on tlie 1. bank of tlie Garonne. The
city takes the form of a crescent, which it bears on its
coat of arms. The Garonne River here is very wide and
deep, and navigable for nearly all classes of steamships.
See the Bordeaux bridge, built in 1819, from which
admirable view of the river, and its banks lined with
palaces, warehouses, and shops. The Place de la
Comedie, on which stands a great theatre, is the principal
rendezvous for strangers. All the principal hotels are
in this neighborhood ; but the largest of all the squares
in Bordeaux is the Place des Quinconces. Here are
the Rostral columns, surmounted by statues of Com-
merce and Navigation. There are also marble statues
here of Montaigne and of Montesquieu ; an equestrian
statue of Napoleon III., which stood in the Tourny alley,
was taken down in 1870. The oldest monument in
Bordeaux is an amphitheatre called the Palais Gallien.
This is supposed to have been built by the Romans, in
the 3d century. The Cathedral of S. Andre was con-
secrated in 1090 ; rebuilt at different epochs ; and is now-
being restored. Near the Cathedral is the Bell Toioer
of Pey-Berland, so called after the Bishop who built it,
in 1440. The ch. of S. Michel, founded 1160, belongs
to the ogival order. It also has an isolated bell
tower. The ancient ch. of S. Croix has a rich fayade
recently restored. The Palace of Justice has numerous
statues of noted rrenchmen. In the vestibule of the
court stands a statue of Montesquieu. Many of the
other public buildnigs are adorned with sculptures and
paintings. The great Theatre has a fine vestibule orna-
mented with Ionic columns. It was in this theatre that
the National Assembly held its sessions in 1871, and
that the nation resolved to make peace with the Prus-
sians. The Museum, founded 1803, has about 600
FRANCE 439
pictures of moderate merit; catalogue, 5o c. ', museum
opeu Suii., Moil., and Tliurs., 10-3 ; other days small
fee. See Library, 200,000 vols , the Museum of
Antiquities and the Museum of Natural History,
also the Bonie Museum. In the chapel of the
Lycee, on the Cours des Torres, is the tomb of Mon-
tesquieu. Bordeaux is a very important commerciai
port : steam navigation with South America, Russia,
Holland, Eugland and Ireland, New York, and New
Orleans, The public garden is a pretty promenade.
The watering-places of Bagneres de Bigorre and BagU'
eres de Lmchon may both be couveniently reached
from Bordeaux.
From Bordeaux it is 34f M. (fares, 4 fr. 65 c, 3 fr. 55
c, 2 fr. 45 c.) to
Arcachon (^Grand Hotel ; Legallais ; De France:
Richelieu; Jampj/). This is a charming seaside resort
on the Bay of Biscay ; and in the pine forest which
stretches along the coast are a great number of winter
villas. The Casino is a charming palace with Moresque
cupolas and minarets. About 100,000 persons visit
Arcachon annually. From Bordeaux it is 159^ M,
(time, 5 1 hrs., fares, 3i fr. 65 c, 23 fr. 75 c, 17 fr,
40 c.) to
Towloxxse {Hotel Tioollier ; T)e T Europe ; Souville),
with 147,000 inhab. This is the old capital of Lan-
guedoc, on the r. bank of the Garonne. There is but
little of interest to the tourist here except the Cathedral
of St. Etietine and the Museum (founded 1792) of an-
tiquities, pictures, and plaster casts. From Bordeaux
to Paris it is 35 8| M. ; time, about 9 hrs. by express ;
fares, 72 fr. 5 c., 54 fr. 5 c, 39 fr. 65 c. You pass
through Angouieme, Poitiers, Tours, and Orleans.
Angouleme {Hotel du Palais; de France), on the
Charunte, is an old town built on a rocky hill, and has a
440 VICHY. — AIX-LES-BAINS.
fine Gothic Cathedral, Theatre^ a Cabinet of Natural
History, and a good Library,
Poitiers {Hotel du Palais ; I)e V Europe ; De France'^
is near the river Ciain. Its finest square is the Place
d'Armes. Catliedral in Goiliic style, with very lofty
halls. Interesting ch, of S. Hilaire, also the Byzantine
Notre Dame ; many Roman antiquities here ; Palace of
Justice, vi^ith room much like Westminster Hall in
I^ondon. The English held this town 300 years. 4 Mo
from Poitiers is the battle-field where the Black Prince
defeated the French under John, in 1356.
Orleans and Tours, see pages 197-198.
Two of the most celebrated of French summer-
resorts are Vichy and Aix-les-Bains, both of which are
easily reached from Lyons.
Vichy {Hotel des Ainbassadeiirs ; Bu Cherhourg .
Du Pare ; Des Princes; Momhrun; De Richelieu; Di
Louvre) is on the banks of the Allier, in a pretty valley
enclosed in an amphitheatre of hills. It is the most
popular watering-place in Prance, Wonderful cures of
gout and rheumatism are reported from Vichy. Bath-
ing season begins May 1 and ends October 1. The old
town, with its ruined walls and ancient towers, is
striking. Most of the hotels are around or near the
old Park, at one end of which is the bathing establish-
ment, and at the other the Casino.
Aix-les-Bains (^Grand Hotel d'Aix ; De V Europe ;
Bernascon et Regijia ; Du Centre ; International;
Du Nord et Grande Bretagne) is a very popular
watering-place in Savoy, 8 M. from Chambery ; 9 sul-
phur springs here effect important cures. See Roman
remains ; Casi7io, Baths; English Ch. Beautiful ex-
cursions to source of the Marlizo; to the Abbey of
Haute Combe, where are the tombs of the House of
Savoy ; to the Nivolet; to the Mollard Garden; to
the Cascade; to Gresy; and to the An^iecy.
COPENHAGEN. 441
A TOUR IN THE NORTH.
FROM Hamburg, in Germany (see page 239),
3'^ou may, if time permits, make a tour of great
interest in the North. We will for the present con-
tent ourselves with briefly laying down some skeleton
routes for a short journey through portions of Den-
mark, Norway, Sweden, and Russia. You may begia
vour trip by going to the chief city in Denmark. From
Hamburg to the German naval depot of Kiel it is
3 hrs. by rail; from Kiel to Korsor by steamer 5
hrs. ; and from Korsor it is 2| hrs. to Copenhagen.
Or you may go all the way by rail from Hamburg to
Copenhagen, by Schleswig, 220 M., in 124- hrs. (fares,
28 k. 95 o., 21 k. 10 5.).
Practical Information. — The money in Denmark,
Norway, and Sweden is reckoned in krone (k.) and
ore, or 0re (5.). There are 100 o. in 1 k. ; 90 ore=:l shil-
ling. — Steamboat schedules are frequently altered ;
remember this in making plans. — The best season for
travelling in these countries is from June to mid-Sep-
tember.— For a journey to the North Cape, select June
or July. — T\i.Q fjords of the Western Coast of Norway
should be seen if possible. See Baedeker, and an ex-
cellent Guide du Voi/ageur, published in Stockholm, for
detailed trips.
Copenhagen {Phoenix; King of Denmark ; D^ An-
gleterre; Ilonopol; Dagmar; National), 409,000 inh.,
stands upon the E. coast of Zealand, and is enclosed
in a line of fortifications, now used as a promenada.
The panorama of batteries, docks, stores, and arsenals,
as seen from the sea, is quite imposing. The E»
443 COPENHAGEN^
part of the harbor is protected by the Castle of
Frederikshavn. Part of the city is built on the small
Island of Amager, and is called G hristianshavn.
The channel between the two islands forms the
port. Copenhagen has a great number of palaces
and public buildings, and 2 to 3 days may well be
spent in inspecting the art collections. The royal
residences are quite numerous. Amalienborg, the
chief house of the royal family, consists of four
small palaces. That next to the Colonnade is the
king's; the second is the Foreign Office; the third
contains state apartments; the fourth pertains to
the crown prince. Bronze Statue of Frederick T.
in the square. The JRoyal Chapel faces the ruins ol
the Christiansborg Palace, burned down in 1884.
The handsome 3-towered Gothic Rosenborg GastU
is in the centre of the King's garden. There see
Chronological collection of the Danish Kings — -
rooms dedicated to each king, and filled with relics
of his life and deeds. The Audience Chamber of
Christian IV, ; the golden cups ; the bedroom in
■which Christian IV. died, in 1648 ; the Marble
Hall ; the beautiful room called the Rose ; and
the Turret Chamber are the other curiosities.
■ Observatory near this palace. FrederiTcsberg Pal-
'ace (now a military school) is 1 M. out, in a beau-
tiful park. Zoological Gardens near by. In the
Vor-Frue-Kirke (Ch. of Our Lady) are famous sculp-
tures by Thorwaldsen ; and in an alcove his coffin
was placed at the funeral, while the royal family
stood bareheaded round it„ See Thorwaldsen's Bap-
tismal Font; also two bas-reliefs — the Baptism of
Christ and the Last Supper. The Art Museum con-
tains a fine collection of modern Danish paintings «
and sculptures (not Thorwaldsen's), and also a num- ■
ber by older artists, being especially rich in examples '
of the Rembrandt school. The Old Glyptothek and
the New Glyptothek contain very valuable collectiaus
«if fencient and modern sculpture respectively.
COPENHAGEN. 443
The greatest curiosity in Copenhagen is Tliorwald-
sen's Museum, built by subscription to contain casts
of all his works and many originals (daily 11-3; on
Mon., Tues., Thurs., Sat. adm. 50 5.; catalogues at
hotels and museum). Here also is the tomb of the
great sculptor.- In the Prindsens-Palaisisthe'Na-
tional Museum, containing the Danish Collection
(prehistoric and historic) of northern antiquities, the
Ethnographic Collection, and the Collection of An-
tiquities, Open daily, except Monday, 12 or 1 to 3.
Visitors should see the Arsenal, close to the Chris-
tiansborg Palace (open Wed., 1-3). Hoy al Library
(550.000 vols.) close by. Beautiful new equestrir'i
statue in bronze opposite the palace.
The Exchange, the Museum of Natural History, the
Universit!/, Library, the CIi. of the Trinity, with its
famous Round Tower (built by Christian IV.), Count
Moltke's collection of pictures (Wed., 12-2), and the
pretty theatres are enough to keep visitors busily oc-
cupied for a week. — -Near Copenhagen is Charlotten-
lund, a country house, inhabited in summer by some
member of the royal family. Prel ty drives hereabouts.
Trolley to Deer Par^, royal preserve, filled with vast
herds of stags, red deer, and fallow deer; and to Hurs-
holni, where once stood a superb palace built by Chris'
tian VL Not far away is the Island of Hveen, where
the astronomer Tycho Brahe resided.
Sentimental travellers may wish to visit Elsinore
ifjresund Hotel), 30 M I'rom Copenhagen, easily
reached by rail in fifty minutes. The Castle and
the Cathedral are the chief sights. Marienlyst, N. of
the town, is a sea-bathing establishment. Here on a
terrace among some trees is shown a mound, called the
grave of Hamlet (see Murray's " Denmark ") . Hamlet's
identification >rith this spot is founded on very sbghi
444 ELSINORE. — MALMO.
proof. Near Elsinore is Qurre, a famous residence of
many Danish kings. RoesMlde was the most impor-
tant town in Denmark, and remained a royal residence
from the 10th to the 15th century. The Cathedral is
the finest building of its kind in Denmark. In its N.
aisle, Saxo Grammaticus, the chronicler, is buried.
From Elstnore it is not far to Fredensborg, where
the Danish Royal Family has its reunions. Carriage
drive thence (1 hour, 4 k.) to castle of Fredrichsborg,
built by Christian II in 1620. Here is interesting
historical museum (daily, 9.30-4 and 5-7, 1 k.). Five
mm. to Hillerod {Hotel Leidersdorf), whence railway
in 1 hr. back to Copenhagen.
From Copenhagen, those persons who do not wish
to visit Norway can go by steamer four times daily
in 1^ hrs. (16 M.) to Malmo {Krdmer''s Hotel;
Hotm), on the Swedish coast, and thence by rly.
in sixteen hrs. (one through express daily; fares,
52 k. 5 0.5 35 k. 65 o.) to the Swedish capital,
jStockholmo Malmo (55,000 inhab.) was during the
iianseatic period the chief commercial town on the
SouuL. ^othwell, Mary Stuart's third husband, was
inipriso''.ed in the castle here, 1573-78. Charles XV.
died here. On the way to Stockholm you pass through
7mnd {Stadshuset ; Grand Hotel), where is the finest
j,.tithedral in Scandinavia, founded in the 11th century.
&e old University buildings here ; and near the Cathe-
dral a Statue of Tegner, who composed many of his
poems at Lund. His study is shown to visitors.
Linkoping {Stora Hotellef) also has a noble ch., built
1150-1499. Notice Norrkoping, near Stockholm.
GOTHENBURG. — CHRISTIANIA. 445
NORWAY.
One may go from Copenhagen to Christian ia by
sea (semi-weekly steamers touching at Gothenburg).
The fares are low, but the boats are small and not
always clean, and the sea is very rough; time, 36 hrs.
The best way is to go by rail via Elsinore (ferry 40
mill.); time, 19 hours.
i ■ Gothenburg {liaghmd's; Gota Kdllare; d^ Angle-
\ terre) is a busy and pleasant commercial town of
i 125,000 Inh. , on the Grotaelf . Excellent harbor, rarely
closed by ice. The first impulse given to Gothenburg
was during the continental blockade, when it formed
' the depot of English trade with Northern Europe.
I The 'Exchange, the Town Kail, the Christina JcT/rka, the
I Statue of Gwstavus Adolphus, the Museum (open daily),
I the Slottsskog Park, with fine view, and the pretty
( garden of the Horticultural Society with hothouse
I and exotic plants near the Wallgraf, comprise the
i chief features of the town. Those who wish to go
- from Gothenburg to Stockholm by the steamer can
I do so (Tues., Fri., Sat.; fares, 25, 17, and 12 k.).
Christiania (Grand; Victoria; Skandinavie; Bri'
tannia; £oulevard),th.e capital of Norway, has 200,000
inhab. Steamships from London, Holland, Hamburg,
etc.. land their passengers on the two quays near the
Custom House (porterage from the steamer, 30-40 5. ;
cabs to the hotel, 40, 60, 80 5.) Christiania is charm-
ingly situated at the N. end of a fjord. It was
founded by (and named for) Christian IV m
1624. The city has taken on new life and greater
importance since the establishment of Norway
as an independent kingdom. The University,
National Picture Gallery, Observatory, and Royal
Palace will occupy the attention for a day. E. of the
446 CHRISTIANIA AND SUBURBS.
market-place is the Ch. of Our Saviour, consecrated in
1697, restored in 1849. Near this edifice is the famous
Steam Kitchen for the poor classes, where economical
dinners are cooked for 2,000 people daily. The Theatres,
the Freemasons' Lodge, the Akershus, the Fortress (many
centuries old), are all within an easy walk of each other.
The Akershus was besieged by Duke Eric of Sweden in
1310, and in 1716 by the famous Charles XII., who
was signally defeated a little later by the Norwegian
naval hero Tordenskjold. Good views fi'om the ram-
parts. See the Mdsvolds Plads, the pretty square
planted with trees, E. of which is the Farliament Edifice.
This has a handsome fapade, flanked with granite lions
(fee to enter). The summer session ends in June.
The National Gallery (Sunday, Tuesday, Wednes-
day, Thursday, Friday, 12-3, free; at other times, fee)
was founded in 1837, and contains 400 pictures.
The Trinity Ch., the Gamle Akers Kirke, — the oldest
ch. in Christiania, founded in the 11th century, — the
monument to Wergeland, the most famous of Nor-
wegian poets, and tVs view from St. Johns Hill should
not be forgotten, in the University, founded 1811,
there are numerous collections of interest. It has 1,000
students, and a library of 250,000 vols. The Royal
Palace is a large plain edifice, with handsome portico,
on a hill in the Slots Park. The Festal Hall, the
Throne Room, and Audience Chamber are beautifully
adorned. In front is an equestrian Statue of Charles
XJV. The Historical Museum contains a very in-
teresting collection of coins, Viking ships, etc. The
Norsk Folks Museum (daily except Wed. and Sat.)
and the Art Industrial Museum (daily except Sat.)
are the only other important sights.
Suburbs. — See Oscarshall (tickets and information
free at the hotels), a castle built for King Oscar in
1847, with works of Swedish and Norwegian artists.
THRONDHJEM. 447
Noble view from the roof. Take trolley (50 6.) to
Holmenkollen ; good restaurant and fine view. Also
visit the Ekeberg.
There is direct steam communicatioii between Uhrii-
tiania and Hidl, 3 days ; London, 4 days ; Havre,
4 days ; Hamburg, 36 hrs. ; Lub^ck, 48 hrs. ; ad
twice a month to New York.
\ Brief Excursions in Norway.
I Cireneral Notes. — Oa all the fjords, and along the
coast of Norway, there are excellent steamboat lines, and
I travel in this way is comparatively cheap. The food is
j usually good. Beer is the national drink. The rigid tem-
I perance laws of Noi' way make it impossible to obtain spirits
I on the steamboats or at moet of the principal railway restau-
j rants. On the lakes there is usually a service 3 times a day.
' All Norway is covered with a network of excellent routes ;
and there are few more pleasant ways of travelling than in
! the post-chaise among the mountains and beside the fjords,
' if the traveller be prudent enough to look out for his relays
of horses. It is only on the most frequented routes that
one can get carriages and horses to make a long journey.
The driver generally takes care of himself and his horses for
a fixed sum. Carriages can carry 8 or 4 persons, with bag-
gage. The relay service is veiy well arranged, and there
will be no occasion for complaint if you always send a tele-
gram ahead. The charges for the horses, and carriages are
by the mile, and are moderate. On the lakes the rowers
also work for a fixed tariif. The amount of baggage is also
determined by regulation.
Throndhjem {Britannia; cT Angleterre ; Grand ^
Scandinavie), the ancient Nidaros^ and the third city
in Norway, has 34,000 inhab. Here Norwegian kings
were crowned in the Middle Ages. Formerly the capi-
tal of the kingdom; and its cathedral (open daily, free,
13-1), the finest in the North, was onc(»- a great resort
448 BERGEN. — HAMMERFEST.
for pilgrims. It is built of a bluisli chlorite slate, with
which the marble columns form an admirable contrast.
In the lltli and 12th centuries this ch. was the buriaL
place of the kings ; and here Charles XIY., Oscar I.^
Charles XV., and Oscar II. were crowned. You may
go from Christiania to Throndhjem bj rail, but the jour-
ney is tedious, and we recommend the carriage route,
or the steamboat voyage around the coast.
From Christiania to Bergen is a favorite excursion.
On the Strandefjord is the noted Fagernces Hotel, a
great resort for tourists. Bergen {Holdfs; Norge;
S^nehy) is on a hilly peninsula and isthmus, with
handsome high mts. in the background. The town
(70,000 inhab.) was founded by King OJaf in 1070. on
the site of an old royal residence. Many great battles
have been fought in its neighborhood. See Bergenhus,
Nygaards Park, and Fislimarket (on Wed. and Sat.,
8-10 A.M.), The Museums have very good collections.
Tlie best view of the town is from the Tldifjeid, N.E.
of tlie harbor. The overland route from Bergen to
M.olde is interesting for leisurely tourists.
Another good excursion \s>from Christiania to Kongs-
berg, the Falls of Rjukan, the Hardangerfjord, and to
Bergen. Still anotlier is from Cliristiania to Vadso^
along ^1\Q coast. Erom Yadso, those who have time
may push on to Hammerfest {Jansen^s Hotel), the
most northern city ia the world. It is built along the
shores of a httle bay, protected by a peninsula from
the fury of the N. winds. Pror a mountain in the
neighborhood there is an extc^dive view over the
glaciers of Sejiand and S6r5. Hence travellers can
usually see the midnight sun in midsummer. Those
who wish to visit the North Cape should remember
that the sole attraction of the journe}'' consists in the
bleakness and solemnity of the scenery. A steamer
STOCKHOLM 449
usually leases Hamburg on Monday morning, arriving
at Vadso Wednesday afternoon and at Hammerfest
on fedturday evening.
SWEDEN.
You may go 'by rail direct from Christian ia to Stock-
holm, in 5 bours to Charlottenberg on the Swedish
frontier, the*ice in about 14 hours to Stockholm ;
through express trains without change in 17 hours
(fares, 43 k. #5 o. , 33 k. 50 o. ; on slow trains a little
less; sleeping cars 5 k. and 3 k. extra).
StoclLholTh {Grand Hotel; Rydherg; Kung Karl;
Kung Karls Sn7iex; Continental; in the old town,
Osiergotland) . Good restaurants m piincipal hotels.
In the soui:hern fauborg, Peligan ; fine view over
Stockholm an-i its environs. Good music at Blanch's
Cafe, Bern's iSalonger, and the Stromparterre
every evening. The principal bank, Riksbanken,
at Jern Torgct. Population, 307,000. Sea com-
munication with Stettin, Lubeck, Copenhagen, Am-
sterdam, London, St. Petersburg, Bordeaux and
Finland, by comfortable steamships and boats. Taxo-
meter cabs, 1-2 persons, 50 o. per kilometre, each ad-
ditional 3^ kilometre 10 o. ; trunk from rly. station
20 o ; fares higher after 11 p.m. Trip to suburbs at
moderate rates. There is an excellent electric tram-
car system (10 o.) The capital of Sweden is situated
on tne banks of Lake Malar, where it empties into
the Baltic Sea. and occupies two peninsulas and many
islands, joined by handsome bridges. Old travelers
say that Stockholm's situation is the most beauti-
ful in Eu?-ope, aftsT that of C(mstantinople, The
city is divided into six parts: the Staden, or
city, formed by the islands of Stadsholmen, Rid-
darholmen, and Helgeandsholmen, the narrowest
,and least agreeable part of Stockholm, but the most
450 PRINCIPAL SIGHTS IN STOCKHOLM.
animated, and the commercial centre; Norrmalm., tlie
N. section, with the island of Blasieholmen; Ladugdrds-
landet, a qfiarter built in the reign of Queen Christina;
Kungsholmen (King's Island) ; Sodermalm, the S. fau-
bourg; and Saltsjo-Oarne, composed of four islands.
The oldest chroniclers give to the town the name which
it bears to-day, — stock signifying straight, and holme,
island. See local guide at bookstores for the romantic
legends connected with the origin of Stockholm. Tine
views from the Mosebacke ; from Kastellholmen ; from
the Observatory ; from the Tower of Jacob's Ch. ; from
Bystrbm^s Villa ; and from the TidoU.
Principal Sights. ^ — In the city Staden: ^% Royal
Falace, — burned in 1697, and rebuilt in 1753, — one of
the finest in Europe, on an eminence close to junction
of lake and sea. Yast panorama from the terrace.
View of the city and the innumerable bits of water, the
majestic mountains, forests, and green plains. Cost of
palace, 10,500,000 k. See the N. fa9ade and the Gus-
iavus Adolphus Place. Here is the Lejonsbacken, a stair-
case ornamented with huge bronze lions. The front
portico is decorated with the Swedish arms,- — 3 bronze
crowns, supported by a figure of Henown. The S., W.,
and E. fapades have beautiful works of art. The chapel,
128 ft. long by 50 ft. wide, has fine marble columns
and richly decorated walls. The pulpit, sculptured
and gilded, is supported by the 4 symbols of the Evan-
gelists,— the angel, eagle, lion, and ox. The altar-piece
represents Jesus at Gethsemane. The Hall of State,
143 ft. long, 51 ft. wide, is by Tessin. See silver throne
given to Queen Christiua by Magnus Gabriel;- and
statues of Gustavus II. and Charles XIY. by Bystrom.
Here the king opens and closes the Diet in presence of
the two chambers of the kingdom. The interior of the
palace is visible all the year; small fee. See the cere-
STOCKHOLM. 451
monial h alls where great festivals are held: Audience
Chamber ; fine ceiling by Fouquet; magnificent caude-
hibra, 29 ft. high ; two porcelains : Red Room, where
Gustavus III. slept (many marble statues here) : great
gallery, 162 ft. long ; wonderful collection of sculp-
tures ; mythological frescos : two smaller rooms, de-
voted to pictures of battles : a second gallery and two
rooms devoted to allegf)ries of Peace; Festival Hall, —
sometimes called the White Sea, — with richly painted
ceilings Victoria Hall, the Hall of the Columns, and
the present king's and queen's apartments : Library
very rich ; Museum of Armour and Costumes, a good
collection. On the great square, S» of the palace,
is an obelisk, erected in 1799, in memory of the
fidelitv of the citizens of Stockholm during the war
of 1788-1790 against the Russians. Near the port,
statue of Gustavus III. Behind the obelisk is the
Church of St. Nicholas, founded m 1260 or 1264,
reconstructed 1726-43, restored 1892; a spire 308 ft.
high; interior divided into 6 naves by rows of columns;
altar-piece in ivory, silver, and ebony, representing the
birth of the Saviour ; organ one of the largest in Swe-
den ; immense stores of beautiful silver vessels and
candelabra ; remarkable funereal monuments. Oppo-
site the palace, beyond the Slottsbacken, is the House
of the Qomriior of StocMiolm, built by Tessin, the most
celebrated architect of Sweden, who formerly owned it.
In the Stortorget, or great square, the famous Bath of
Blood, as it is called in Swedish history, — the execu-
tion of 96 distinguished citizens, opponents of Christian
II., King of Denmark, wiio was seeking to extend
his rule over Sweden, — toolv place. Hers is the
Bourse, built in 1766; fine halls in the first story.
.Near by, the German ch. (1642), with tower 222 ft.
high, and the only chime of bells in Sweden;
injured by fire in 1878, but restored. Here also is
4^^ STOCKHOLM.
the Knights Hoiise (1648), one of the finest palaces in
Stockhohn ; noble staircase ; walls decorated with the
arms of all the nobility of Sweden. Statue of Gustavu?
Vasa before this house, erected on the 250th anniver-
sary of the entry of that king into Stockholm. The
courts of justice and other n'.iblic buildings are not fat
away. At Sheppsbro, the port, are the telegraph office
and the Custom House. The Scanditiavian Credit
Bank is the finest modern building in the city. The
Gothic Ch. of the Knights' Island {liiddarholms-KyrkaT^
is on the Riddarholmeu Island, to tlie W. of the Eques-
trian Palace. It belonged to a famous Franciscan
convent founded by King Magnus Ladulas, and was
reconstructed in 1847. It is 192 ft. long, 60 ft. wide,
and the tower is 290 ft. high. It is noticeable as a
Tnausoleum of celebrated men (local guides give de.
scription). The chief tomb is that of the Gustavus
dynasty. N. of the choir is the Charles Chapel (built
1686-1743), Mdth maihle sarcophagus of Charles XII.
Here also repose Charles X., Charles XV., Frederick,
and many others. Ch. open Tues. and Thurs. (also
Sat. in summer) 12-2 p.m. ; fee, 25 o. On the
Riddarhojm are also tlie Roi/ul Cuurts of Justice, the
Cham,ber of Deputies, \\\q Royal Archives, and the, Statue
of Birger Jarl. Go by the great northern bridge — ■
380 ft. long, in granite, built in 1797 — to Relgeands-
holm-en, witli its pretty gardens, huge bazaar, and royal
stables.
In the N. section {Norrmalm) is the Gustavus Adol-
phtis Place and statue, pedestal ornamented with re-
liefs of celebrated Swedish generals. On the W.,
Palace of the Croivn Prince, Opposite is Royai, Opera
Houae^ erected on site of theatre where Gustavus III. •
was killed by Ankarstrom. E. , near this square, is the
STOCKHOLM. 453
Jacofs Ch. (1590). The S. portal is very rich with scnlp-
tures dating from 1644. The poet Kellgren is buried here.
To the E. is the Charles XII. Place, with statue of Charles
XII. To the N., the promenade called the King''s Garden,
statue of Charles XIII. Pretty theatre and fountain near
by. In the Berzelius Park, statue of Berzelius, the father
of chemical science. E. of the Charles XII. Place is the
National Museum (open daily except Mon., 11-3 ; Sun., 1-3).
On the ground floor is the Historical Museum, founded in
the ITth century, and one of the largest of its kind. The
Hall of the Middle Ages is especially interesting. On the
first floor are collections of furniture and house decora-
tions, ceramics, and sculpture, the last of unusual merit.
On the upper floor is the picture gallery, in which the
Italian, German, Flemish, Spanish, French, Swedish,
Norwegian, and Danish schools of painting are well repre-
sented. From the National Museum, an iron bridge leads
to the Sheppsholm, an island on which are the Karl-
Johanskyrka, the Naval Academy, and the Naval Arsenal.
The Academy of Fine Arts (1671) is in the Red Shop
Square. The CRara-Kyrka (1285 ; burned 1751 ; rebuilt
1753 ; restored 1893) is very interesting. At Kungsholmen
are many hospitals and some of the chief manufactories.
Also the Mint, and a ch. with a fine altar-piece. Not far
away is the principal military school. There are many
other interesting things in the city quarter (see local
guides). The Ch. of St. John should be seen. In the
cemetery of the latter. Yon Dobeln, one of the heroes of
the last war against the Russians, is buried. The two
principal streets of Stockholm are the Regents' and
454 UPSALA.
Queen Street, — in Swedish, Regeringsgatan and Broti-
ninggatan. The Academy of Science, the Natural
History Museum, tlie Technological Institute, the Mirb-
ing School, and the Observatory are all in this quarter.
In the Ostermalm quarter are the Artillery
Square and a oh. founded in 1658, remarkable for its
acoustics. Here also is the Royal Library of 200,000
vols., founded under Charles IX (open free every week-
day, 10-3). In the Sodermalm, or S. faubourg, is the
Karl Johans Place, with equestrian statue to memory
of that king. Here also, in the Bormgatan, 48, is the
house which Swedenborg inhabited. The Katharina-
Kyrka is on the spot where the victims of the Battle
of Blood were buried. Fine view from top of Soder-
malm (elevator). The environs of Stockholm are
noted lor their beauty, especially during the wonder-
fully clear nights of June and July. The Carlherg
^nd Drottningholm should be visited, and especially
the Djurgard, a beautiful park on an island 2 M.
long. At the W. end of thi^ island is the Northern
Museum, a large collection of Scandinavian curios-
ities. Here nearly every evening in summer popular
dances in national costume are given accompanied by
national music. No one should fail to see them.
Upsala {Stads-Hotellet ; Svea; gooa restaur-
ants), the most famous university town in Sweden
(20,000 inhab.), and the residence of the archbishop
and other dignitaries. It lies on both banks of the
Fyrisa, which is crossed by 5 bridges. It was formerly
called Ostra-Aros, and when the Swedish kings resided
at Gamla Upsala, it was their port. It is the historical
and intellectual centre of Sweden, and its mythical
associations are of the greatest interest. Visit the
Gothic Cathedral (founded 1260), situated on a pictu-
resque height. Tlie chief curiosities are the Burial
Chapel of Gustavus Vasa (at the back of the choir) ,
and the tomb of Linnceiis, the great botanist.
ABO. — HELSINGFOES. 455
N. of this cathedral is St. Eric's Spring, said to have
burst forth on the spot where the saint was martyred.
The Ch. of the Trinity has many handsome monuments.
The University was founded in 1477. Many of its
edifices are very striking in architecture. The library
building is especially fine. The Library contains 200,000
vols., and 7,000 MSS. Here is the famous transla-
tion of the four Gospels by Bishop Ulphilas, dating
from the second half of the 4th century. The House of
Linnceus is still shown in Upsala. In the cemetery see
monument to Geijer, the poet. There are 1,500 stu-
dents at the University. Numerous -charming excur-
sions in tlie neighborhood. A pretty excursion is from
Upsala to Qefle by rail in %\ hrs, (6 k. 85 o.,
4 k. 60 5.). On the way you may see tlie Castle,
which was fortified by Gustavus Vasa, and where
Eric XIV. was imprisoned during his iusanity.
We will not attempt to give other excursions in
Sweden, but will recounncnd the tourist next to pro-
ceed from Stockholm to St. Petersburg.
RUSSIA.
Steamers sail 3 times a week in summer from Stock-
holm to St. Petersburg in 3-4 days, stopping at Abo,
the old capital of Pinland, taken from the Swedes ia
1809 by the Russians ; Relsingfors, one of the strong-
est of naturally fortified harbors ; and Wyborg, taken
from the Swedes by Peter the Great in 1710. The
beauty of the hundreds of islands through which the
steamer threads its way renders the journey a constant
pleasure. The Ahland Islands are about 300 in number.
Shortly after the steamer enters the Gulf of Finland,
the dome of St. Isaac's Ch. in St. Petersburg ts dis-
tinctly visible On the Way up, the steamer passes
456 ST. PETERSBURG.
Cronstadt, the Russian Empire's chief naval station.
It is defended by great batteries hewn out of the sohd
rock, and has extensive docks. The fortifications were
begun in 1703 by Peter the Great, and have beeir
greatly strengtliened since. The approaching seawara
is secured by the erection of batteries and by the sink-
ing of ships. An excursion can be made in one day
from St. Petersburg to Cronstadt, Oranienbaum, Peter-
hof, Strelna, and the Monastery of St. Sergius. Oranien-
baum is a palace, built in 1724, confiscated to the crown
from Mentchikoff's estate. It commands a magnificent
view. The Peterhof Palace, begun in 1720 by Leblond,
under the direction of Peter the Great, contains innumer-
able articles of vertu, tapestries, marbles, porcelains,
malachites, portraits, especially a collection of pictures
of feminine beauties, 368 in number, collected from 50
Russian provinces. In front of the palace is a fountain
called the Samson. There are two small palaces near
here, of which Peter the Great was very fond, and in
that of Mont Plaisir he died. The Hermitage, Alex-
andra, where the Emperor lives while at Peterliof, and
Strelna, the palace of the Grand Duke Coustantine,
are in this neighborhood.
St. Petersburg {.Hotel d' Angleterre ; De JRussie ;
DemoutUs ; Be France ; cf Europe) is the capital of the
Russian Empire, and as the headquarters of the official
world and the centre of Russian society must always
possess a certain interest for the traveler (1,500,000
inhab.). The common supposition that it is not wise to
visit Russia in midsummer is founded upon a mistake.
The Russian summer climate is extremely soft and beau-
tiful, and the iieat is never so intense as in some parts
of North America. Of course, the social world is not so
gay as in winter, but the tourist who expects to spend but
2 or 3 days in St. Petersburg will hardly care about this.
ST. PETERSBURG. 457
The city was founded by Peter the Great, about 1703,
and, like Madrid, it might be called a capital with malice
aforethought ; for the energetic mouarch set it down
among the marshes through which the river Neva wan-
ders towards the sea. On the islands in the channels
of the divided Neva the greater part of the city is built.
The Admiralty Quarter, so called, containing the public
buildings, is on the mainland, on the S. bank of the
Neva. St. Petersburg is in many respects a magnificent
city, although the contrasts between squalor and great
splendor are sometimes too sharp to permit of an agree-
able impression. When the town was building, under
Peter the Great, 40,000 or 50,000 peasants were em-
ployed for years in filling up the marshes. It was the
Empress Catherine who built the splendid granite quay
along the Neva's 1. bank. The river has overflowed many
times, and the inundations in the 18th century and in the
early part of the 19th were very disastrous. The or-
dinary tourist will find that the difl&culties concerning
passports, police supervision, etc., have been greatly
exaggerated, and if he is not a Nihilist he will not be
much troubled. A passport is, however, exacted on en-
tering Russia, and has to be delivered up to the hotel
proprietor for registration, and he hands it to you on
leaving the hotel. The city is divided into 13 quarters,
the Admiralty being the principal one. From the Ad-
miralty three great streets branch off. They are called
the Vosnessensky J the Gorokhooaia, ending at the Champs
de Mars ; and the fauious Nevsky Prospect, where are
the most elegant of the shops and many of the chs. and
public buildings.
The Cathedral of our Lady of Kazan, in the Nevsky
Prospect, begun under Alexander I., and consecrated in
1811, is the metropolitan church of St. Petersburg. It
is a copy of St. Peter's at Rome, and takes its name
458 ST. PETERSBUEG.
from an iinaj^e of the Virgin brought from Kazan to Mos-
cow in 1579. See the beautiful Corinthian colonnade,
with columns of Finland granite. Interior superb;
shrine of chased silver, the gift of Cossacks who served;
in wars of 1813-14 ; images before which lamps are al-,
waj's kept burning ; flags, arras, and standards, taken 'm.\
battle ; bronze statues of Kutusoff and Barclay de Toll?'
in front of the ch. No organ or instrument is used iu
tiie service, but great pains are taken to secure gooci
voices. Remark the deep bass intonation. T/ie For' ;
tress and Cathedral of St. Peter and St. Faul contains, i
in its vaults the tombs of all the sovereigns of Russia^
since the foundation of St. Petersburg, except Peter II.
(buried at Moscow). The fortress part of this edifice
is used as a prison, and also contains the imperial Mint.
The gilded spire is visible from a great distance. Hun-
dreds of flags are suspended along the walls.
The Cathedral of St. Isaac, the largest in St. Peters-
burg, is on the site of a ch. built in 1710 by Peter the
Great. Its foundations rest upon thousands of piles.
The interior is chiefly striking from its splendid propor-
tions. Notice the lavish use of polished granite, white
marble, malachite, porphyry, and lapis lazuli. Fine
view of city from dome. The Winter Palace (admission
by tickets procured from chief of palace police; fee),
built in 1754, in Catherine's reign, stands on the r. bank
of the Neva. This is the imperial city residence, and this
building was the scene of the Nihilist conspiracies, which
finally resulted in the death of Alexander II. in 1881.
The exterior is not impressive, but the interior is richly
ornamented with paintings, bronzes, marbles, and pre-
cious stones. Grand festival here on New Year's Day
by the Emperor to all his subjects. See the Ambassa-
dor's Staircase on the Neva ; also the magnificent flight
of white marble steps, leading to the state apartments.
ST. PETERSBURG. 459
riie Throne Room is the finest in Europe. The White
Room, St. George s Hall, the Field Marshal's Gallert/y
the Alexander Hall, the Halls of Battles (in which are
paintings by Horace Vernet), the Golden Chamber, the
Empress's Winter Garden, and the Romanoff Gallery-
are the principal apartments. Near the entrance of the
latter gallery is the green curtain, behind which is a
tablet on which are the rules drawn up by the Empress
Catherine, to be enforced at her receptions at the Her-
mitage. In the jewel room, see the Imperial crown and
sceptre (containing a diamond weighing 194 carats) . See
also room in which Emperor. Nicholas died. The Her'
milage (open daily except Eri. and holidays, 11-4), close
to Winter Palace, was founded by Catherine in 1765,
and rebuilt in 1840-50. The famous museum contains-
1,700 paintings of all schools, among them being some
by Murillo, Velasquez, Rubens, Yan Dyke, Rembrandt,,
and Ruysdael. There are also vast collections of en-
graved stones, and designs by masters.
The Taurida Palace, the Anitchkoff Palace, the
Michael and the Marble Palaces are not impressive
buildings. The Russian Museum of Alexander IIL
(open daily, ex. Mon., 10-4) contains goed collection
of modern art. The Admiralty is a vast edifice with
fa9ade -^ M. long. Near it are the great dockyards, the
headquarters of the army, and the War Office. The
Wooden Cottage of Peter the Great, containing many-
relics of the famous monarch, is near the citadel.
The Imperial Library, containing 400,000 vols., is
near the Kazan Ch. Other noteworthy libraries are
those of the Academy of Science, the Hermitage, and
the Alexander NevsJcy Monastery. This monastery is
one of the most celebrated in Russia. It was founded
by the great Peter in honor of Alexander the Great,
who conquered the Swedes and the Livonians. The
museum of the Academy of Science occupies a portion
460 MOSCOW
of the superb biulding near the Admiralty. The
Asiatic Museum is rich in. Eastern antiquities. The
Romanoff Museum^ tiiat attached to the Mining
School, that of Natural History, and the Egyptian
Museum should be seen. The theatres, kept up at the
government expense, are all of large size. The
Marien(opera, and ballet) , Alexander {Jlnssmn. drama
and comedy), and Jfichael (French) are the best.
The monuments are nearly all good. Those most
worthy of attention are the Equestrian Statue of
Peter the Great, with a prancing horse balanced on
its hind legs, by Falconet; and the column of
Alexander, a single shaft of red granite 80 ft. high,
weighing 400 tons, stands near the Winter Palace.
The Summer Ijrardens, 1 M. long and ^ 'mile wide,
beautifully ornamented, contain the palace in which
Peter the Great occasionally lived. A day excursion
should be made to Tsarshoye Selo, where the emperor
resides in the spring and autumn.
It is 1011 M. from St. Petersburg to Moscow. The
rly. carriages are much like those of America in model.
The stations are all comfortable, refreshment saloons
excellent and fares reasonable. First-class express
to Moscow, 24 roubles; second, 17 roubles. The
principal town on the way is Tver, at the confluence
of the Yvertsa and the Volga. Cathedral, Trinity
Church. Here steamer can be taken to Nijni'
Novgorod, and thence to Astrahan.
Moscow {National, Slavianshi Bazaar, Chev'
rier, d'Angleterre)^ or Holy Moscow, as the Russians
call it, the ancient capital of Russia, formerly the
residence of the Emperors, is situated on the
Moskowa, in a pleasant country. Up to the great
fire in 1812, it was the most irregularly built town
in Europe, and to-day it remains original and pic-
turesque in a striking degree. A good view may be
had from Sparrow Hill (by carriage, about 7 r.) In
the centre of the city is the Kremlin, a triangle 2 M.
MOSCOW. 461
in circuit, filled with palaces, cliurclies, arsenals, and
museums. Here tlie Tartar architecture predominates.
An excellent preparation for visiting the Kremlin is the
perusal of Theophiie Gaiitier's lively and sparkling book
on a " Winter in Russia." The Redeemer s Gate and the
Gate of St. Nicholas slvq objects of great veneration among
Russians. Visitors must uncover their heads on pass-
ing through the Redeemer's Gate. The present Krem-
lin Palace is modern, the old Kremlin having been de-
stroyed in 1812. Most of the ancient palaces were of
wood. To Nicholas I. the erection of the present one
is due. The Hall of St. George, the Hall of St. Alex-
ander Neoshj, and Sts. Andrew and Catherine, and the
Banqueting Hall, as well as the Tereni, whicii contains
a collection of the portraits of the czars, and from the
terrace of which Napoleon I. looked down upon Mos-
cow when he came there as conqueror, are among the
Kremlin's chief marvels. In the little Ch.of the Re-
deemer are some beautiful decorations. On the Cathedral
Place is the Cathedral of the Assumption, founded in
1325, and rebuilt in 1473. Many sacred treasures here.
In this ch. the Emperors of Russia are crowned. The
Cathedral of the Archangel Michael contains many
tombs of sovereigns. The Ch. of the Annunciation is
where the czars are baptized ; is rich with relics. The
jewels m all Russian chs. are worth studying. House
of the Synod, Treasury (open free week days ex. Sat.,
Derm it at the chamberlain's office), and Arsenal will
furnish plenty of amusement for a day. The To?^er of
loan Veliki, or John the Great, built in 1600, and 320
ft. high, contains 34 bells, the largest of which weighs
64 tons. When all these bells are rung together at
Easter the effect is wonderful. At the foot of this tower
is the vast Tsar Kolokol, or Monarch of iicilh It once
hung in a tower (burned in 1737) ; weighs 444,000
lbs. ; and is 20 ft. high and 60 ft. round. The value of
462 NIJNI-NOVGOROD. — ODESSA.
the metal in the bell is nearly ^3,000,000. Outside the
Kremlin is the Chinese town, so called, founded by
Helena. Here are the Cathedral of St. Basil, built in
1554 by Ivan IV., the Romanoff Palace, the Iberian
Gate and Chapel, the University (900 students), the great
Riding School, the Theatres, and the largest Bazaar in
llussia, except that of Nijni-lNfovgorod. The pigeon
being looked upon as sacred by the Russians, thousands
of these birds are to be seen in the streets of Moscow.
S. of Moscow is a beautiful villa owned by the Imperial
family. The Tretyahoff Gallery of modern Russian
art (open daily ex. Mon. , 10-4, free) is worth a visit.
It is 271f M. from Moscow to Nijni-Novgorod.
Tourists pressed for time can take night tram there,
spend the day at Nijni, and return the next night.
Nijni-Novgorod" {Be Russie, Egoroff's), a' city of
76,000 inhab., is celebrated for its great fair, held an-
nually in July and Aug., and attended by 200,000 peo-
ple. Here the inhabitants of the barbaric East come
into close contact with the Western merchants and vis-
itors. The town is at the confluence of the Oka and
the Volga. The Kremlin is on a bank <^verhanging the
Volga. The transactions at the fair amount annually
to ^80,000,000.
From Moscow to Odessa (40i hrs. ; fare, 32 r. 1st
class, 20 r. 2(1 class) the route passes through Kieff.
Odessa {De Londrss, De St. Petershourg) was
founded in Catherine II. 's reign. It is an important
commercial port, with 250,000 inhab. ; but there is
little of interest to the traveller except the Cathedral^
a small museum, a bronze statue of Richelieu, and the
University. Steamers (poor) leave Odessa twice a
week for the Crimea and Sebastopol, and the field ol
the Crimean war may easily be visited. There is also
steam communication with Constantinople.
TABLft OF CLIMATIC HEALTH B"P; ?ORTS, MIN-
ERAL WATERS, SEA BATHS, AVD HYDRO*
PATHIC ESTABLISHMENTS.
Times and railway fares are calculat'i I from Paris.
Aix-la-ChapeUe (10 hrs from Paris ; fare, 48 fr.).—
Sulphurous alkaline waters, 107° to )20° T. For skin dis-
eases, rheumatism, chrouic diseases of the nervous centres,
neuralgias, paralysis, and syphilitic maladies.
Aix-les-Bains (14^ hrs.; 71 fr. 60 c.). — Sulphurous
hot springs, 112° to 114° E. Have a world-wide reputa-
tion in cases of rheumatism and gout; also chionic catarrh
of the neck of the womb, aineuorrhoea, metritis, syphilis,
bronchitis, laryngeal and nasal catarrh, pharyuji.itis, wounds
by fire-arms. April to Nov., and all the year.
Am^lie-les-Bains (241 hrs.; 120i fr.). — Sulpburous
sodaic watei's, 71° to 172° E., and winter statio'j. Herpetic
diathesis, and catarrhal aifectious. All the year.
Arcaclion (10 hrs.; 78 fr. 70 c), — Vf'iuter station,
and sea baths. For invalids requiring a aedalive air ; for
delicate, lymphatic, and anseraic persons ; nervous complaints ;.
<5hest and lung affections ; scrofula ; gout. Winter season,
A'ora No\\ till June ; summer, from May iVX Oct.
Aulus (24^ hrs.; 119 fr.). -— Alkaline waters, 48° t-.
Purgative, laxative, and diuretic action;, according to dose,
in diseases of the liver, in arthritic a'Tections, and in syphilis.
Baden (27 hrs. ; 152|- fr.). — Sulphurous waters, 82° to
})5° F. For rheumatism, gout, anaemia, and scrofula (espe-
i'iallv of a chronic character). May to Oct., and all the year.
Baden-Baden (16 hrs. , 63 fr.). — Alkaline chloride
^f sodium waters. 110° to 130° F. Uric acid diathesis, gout,
and kindred comi^laiuts ; ailments dependent on malaria,
ai^d certain sk^u diseases ; chronic rheumatism ; wounds, frac-
tures of the bonss, sci'ofula, syphilis, chronic catarrh, certain
ladaev affections, anaemia. May to Oct. and aU the year.
464 CLIMATIC HEALTH RESORTS,
Bagn^res-de-Bigorre (22 hrs. ; 105 fr.). — Saline.
sulphurous, ierrugiiious, and arsenical waters, 72" to 120° F.
For tuberculosis, affections of the respii-atory organs, intes-
tines, and urinary system, ansemia, and female disorders. J| [
Juue io Sept., baths; Nov. to May, winter station. ^i
Bagnoles (19 hrs. ; 67 fr. 65 c). — Saline, sulphurous,
lithic, silicate, and arsenical waters, 66° F. For diseases of
the digestive organs, skin, rheumatism, and scrofula, chlor-
osis, congestion of the abdominal viscera, phlebitis, &c.
Bareges (2U hrs. ; 113 fr.). — Alkali-saline-sulphurous
waters, 45° to 105° F. For scrofula, diseases of the bones.
herpes and syphilis. June 15 to Sept. 15.
Biarritz" (19^ hi-s. ; 96 fr. 80 c). — Sea-bathing and
winter station. For chlorosis, anseniia, chest and lung com-
plaints, laryngitis, pharyngitis. Aug. to May.
Bourbon-rArchambault (6f hrs. ; 40 fr. 75 c). —
Bromo-iodurated saline waters, 125° F. ; and bicai'bon^te
ferruginous magnesian waters, 120° to 160° F., highly gase-
ous. For scrofula, rheumatism, paralysis, nervous affections.
Bourboule (La) (13i hrs. ; 60 fr.). — Effervescent
saline arsenical waters (28 milligr. arseniate of soda per
litre), 140° F. For ansemia, lymphatism, general debility,
affections of the skin and respiratory organs, rheumatisnij
and intermittent fevers. May 25 to Sept. 30.
Cannes (20| hrs.; 130 fr.). — Winter station of fii-st
importance; climate tonic and stimulating near the sea;
sedative towards Le Cannet. Sea baths in spring ; season,
Oct. to May. For nervous debility, anaemia, phthisis, laryn-
gitis, pharyngitis, rheumatism, paralysis, gout, and diabetes.
Carlsbrunn. — Highly elfervescing, ferruginous manga-
nese waters, 45° F. ; climatic station. For debility of the
male and female sexual organs, sterility, impotence, affections
of the brain due to overwork. June to Sept.
Castellamare di Stabia (50| hrs.; 248 fr.). — Sea
baths ; cold chloride of sodium, bitter and sulphurous chaly=
beate waters. For obstructions of the liver and spleen,
affections of the mesenteric glands, biliary and '-^sical calc^a.
MINERAL WATERS, SEA BATHS, ETC. 465
jaundice, dropsy, hemorrhoids, chronic ophthalmia, herpes,
catarrh of the digestive organs, hypochondriasis, urinary cal-
culi, vesical catarrh, scrofula, lymphatism, congestion of the
uterus, leucorrhoea, &c. Sea and mineral bathing. May to
Oct. ; winter season, Oct. to April.
Cauterets (211 hrs. ; 111 fr. 90 c). — Sulphate of
soda springs, 55° to 145° F. For catarrh of the respiratory
organs, skin diseases, uterine affections, scrofula.
Contrexeville ^10 hrs. ; 51? fr.). — •Effervescent alka-
line, slightly feri'uginous waters, 55° F. Especially for
gravel, biliary and vesical calculi, aud catarrh, diabetes, gout,
and gouty rheumatism, disorders of the urinary svstem, affec-
tions of the uterus, hepatic complaints. May 20 to Sept.
Dax (15 hrs. ; 90 fr. 80 c). — Hyperthennal mixed sul-
phurous waters, 120° to 145° F. For articular, musculai',
or rheumatic affections, gout, neuralgia, and neuroses.
Dieppe (*4 hrs.; 20 fr. 65 c). — -Much-frequented sea-
bathing and summer resort.
Divonns-les-Bains (15| hrs.; 81 fr.). — Cold water
springs; water exceptionally pure, 44° F. For chronic rheu-
matic arthritis, lumbago, pleuro-dynia, gout, sciatica, neu-
ralgia, hypochondria, neuroses, gastralgia, bronchial catarrh,
dyspepsia, liver and bladder complaints, hemorrhoids, paraly-
sis, chronic affections of the spinal cord, scrofula, and female
"^''sorders.
Eaux-Boniies (18 hrs. : 105 fr.). — Sulphurous saline
acd :-lkaliiie waters, 90*^ F. For angina pectoris, and laryn-
gitis, bronchitis, and chronic catarrh, asthma, chronic pleu-
ritis, auEemia, lymphatism, and scrofula. June to Sept.
Ems (18i hrs. ; 71 fr. 15 c). — Saline alkaline and sa^
line earthy, 65° to 110° F. These waters act on the lungs
and chest, and on nervous diseases. May to Oct.
Enghien (20 min. ; 1 fr. 35 c). — Cold sulphurous and
lime waters. For scrofula, affections of respiratory organs,
herpes, and rheumatism.
Etretat (5 hrs. 50 min. ; 28 fr.). — A now much-fre-
quiMited resort for sea-bathina* in summer.
, 468 CLIMATIC HEALTH RESORTS,
£3vian-les-Bains (13 livs.; 82 fr. 80 c.). — Alkalme
waters, and climatic air station. For affections of the uii.
nary and digestive organs, the liver and biliary apparatus.
Geneva (14 hrs.^ 77 fr.). — Milk cure. Bathers from
Aix-les-Bains come here to rest after their cure.
Gorbersdorf (89 hrs. ; 167i Ir.). ~ Noted for its moun-
tain-air cure, in atfections of the respiratory organs. Ante-
mia and chlorosis are also treated.
Grasse. — Dry and sedative climate; winter station;
Ovt. to June. Chest and lung complaints, pharyngitis,
nervous affections, anaemia, i-hlorosi:.
Hombwrg-les-Bains (18 hrs. 40 min. ; 86 fr. 69 c).
- — Saline, ferruginous, and ai^^'^ulous waters. For dyspepsia,
scrolula, and auEcmia.
Hydres (20 hrs.; 117 u-.). — Winter season, Nov. tt
June ; sea-bathing, May to Oct. For diseases of the laryns
chest, and lungs, sci'ofula, diabetes, gout, and rheumatism.
Interlaken (18 hrs. ; 78 fr. 65 c). — Climatic statioa
in summer, visited for its beautiful environs. Whey cure.
Ischia (501- hrs. ; 288? fr.). — Alkali -saline waters,
145"^ F. For uterine affections, rheumatism, diseases of the
bones, sores, gout, and paralysis. Spring and autumn.
Ischl (23f hrs.; 168 fr. 90 c). — A climatic summer
station ; May to Oct. Saline and cold sulphurous waters ;
whey cure ; saline, steam, hot and cold brine, and sulphurous
baths ; mud, malt, pine-cone, sap, and wave baths ; iuhala-
tion. Recommended for nervous affections.
Karlsbad (82 hrs.; 137 fi'.). — Polymetallic waters,
125° to 170° F. For constipation, liver and bilious com-
plaints, plethora, obesity, gout, gravel, &c.
Kissingen (21 hrs. 40 niiu. ; 106 fr.). — Cold saline
•waters, strongly mineralized ; tonic and excitant. Especially
suited to abdominal and hemorrhoidal congestions.
Kreuznach (131 hrs. ; 72 fr.). — Bromo-iodurated sa-
line waters. F orscrofulou* affections, diseases of the ears»
respiratory organs, bones, ttnd joints, all femafe and skin
disease? ad in chronic affections generally. May to Oct.
MINERAL WATERS, SEA BATHS, ETC. 467
Lausanne (15^ hrs. ; 64 fr. 20 c). — Climatic station
ixL suunu r and aiUuiiiu ; bracing air and graj)e cure.
Loeche-les-Bains (30 hrs. ; ]00 fr.). — ^ Various
springs ; liot saline earthy waters, 70° to 120° F. For struma,
herpes, and skin diseases, sci'ofuia, rheumatism, chronic
bronchitis, invetei-ale syphilis, &c. May 15 to Sept. 30.
Luchon {I'dk hi's. ': imi fr.). — Upwai-ds of fifty differ,
ent spiings, mirieraJized liv hydro-sujphui'ic acid; also ferru-
giiiousmd alkaline. For rheumatism, scrofula, bionchial
and skin diseases, and chronic sores. June to Sept.
Luxeuil (111 hrs. ; 60 fr.). — Saline, ferruginous, and
magucsian waters ; eleven springs, 70° to 125° F. They
are lirst excitant, then sedative ; and good in cases of neural-
gia, rheumatism, paralysis, gastralgia, &c.
Madeira (steamers from Southampton, Bordeaux, or Lis-
bon ; journey 5 to 6 days; 500 fr.). — Highly recommended
for pulmonary complaints ; climate delightful ; no winter.
Mentone (24^ hrs.; 139 fr.). —Winter station of first
importance, and sea baths. For all forms of chest diseases
and rheumatism, cachetic complaints, and debility. Winter
season, November to June; sea-bathing. May to Oct.
Monaco (24^ hrs.; 138 fr.). — MoJe Carlo is the
favorite winter I'esort of pleasure-seekers. One of the most
sheltered stations on the Riviera. Sea baths ; May to Oct.
Mont-Dore(ll hrs.; 64i fr.). — Bicarbonate, arsen-
ical, and effervescent ferruginous waters, 107° to 115° F.
For all forms of chest diseases and of the respiratory tract ;
ophthalmia, rheumatic and nervous affections, disorder.s of
the uterus and skin. June 1 to Oct. 1.
Naples (48 hrs. ; 223 fr. 85 c). — The great variety of
mineral waters and their therapeutic properties have rendered
this delightful city and its environs the.most frequented bath-
ing station in Italy. Sea baths.
Nice (22 hrs.;' 134 fr. 20 c.).— Winter station of Tirst
importance. For chronic diseases of the chest, lungs, and
respiratory organs ; affections of the larynx,, liver compinints.
disorders of the spinal cord, diabetes, gout, • rherni atism.
468 CLIMATIC HEALTH RESORTS
paral^vsis, debility. Winter season, Nov. to June ; sea-bathing
season, May to Oct. ; principal season, Jan. to March.
Ostend (14 hrs. ; 38 fr. 40 c.) — Sea baths. Sandy-
beach and bi-acing climate. Season, June 1 to Oct. 1.
Palermo (66i hrs.; 239i fr.). —Winter station ; sea.
baths. Season, Nov. to April ; bathing season. May to O-^t. ^
Pau {17i hrs.; 101 fr.). — Winter resort of first im-
portance. For chest complaints, consumption (inflammatory
action and blood-spitting), asthma, bronchitis, rheumatisni.j
neuralgia, and nervous disorders. Nov. 15 to May 31.
Pierrefonds (2^ hrs. : 12 fr.). — One cold sulphate of
lime spring ; one fei-ruginous and arsenical. Pulmonary catarra.
Plombi^res (11 hrs.; 45 fr.). — The springs range
from 30° to 175° F. For rheumatism, paralysis, herpes.,
nervous debility, hysteria.
Potigues (5 hrs.; 29 fr. 70 c). — Mixed bicarbonate
ferruginous gaseous waters. Affections of the digestive organs.
Preste (La) (23! hrs.; 145 f.). — Very efficacious wa-
ters in diseases of the urinary organs, gravel. 90° to 105' F.
Piillna, — No ti-eatment nt Pilllna itself; the waters ayq
exported, and considered excellent as preservatives and reme-
dies against diseases of the digestive organs, constipation,
congestions, liver and bladder complaints, nervous disorders,
obesity, disenscs of the eye, headache, and gastritis.
Pyrmont (18 hrs.; 84 fr. 30c.). — Chalybeate springs
of importance anl much renown; effervescent saline waters,
brine baths, inhalations. For female complaints, especially
ansemia, chlorosis, scrofula, stomachic and intestinal catarrhs,
obesity, affections of spleen and liver. Season, May 15 to Oct. 1.
Recoaro (34f hrs.; 189| fr.). — Alkaline, acidulated
ferruginous waters, 45° F. For chronic and nervous debil-
ity, female diseases, obesity, auccmia, chlorosis, gravel and
vesical calculus, congestion of the liver, biliary calculi, hem-
orrhoidal complaints, intestinal catarrhs. Mav to Sept.
Rome (491 h.-s. ; 201 fr. 90 c.). — Winter station of
first importance. Fm debility and scrofula in children,
chronic catarrh of -V, bronchi, amphysema. The climate is
I
MINERAL WATERS, SEA BATHS, ETC. 469
sedative to the nei'vos and respiratory ors^ans ; tut patients
sbonld first consult their doctor. Oct. to May.
Rorschach. — Climatic; station in summer; haths in
thfi lake ; Turkish baths ; very pure and equable atmosphere.
Royat (9^ hrs. ; Blf fr.). — Four springs : mixed alka-
line, gaseous, ferruginous, and slightly arsenical and lithic
waters, 45° to 95° F. For lymphatic affections, anaemia,
chlorosis, catarrhal affections, arthritic gout, and skin dis-
eases dependent on a gouty diathesis.
St. Galniier. — Alkaline table waters, used in France.
St. Moritz (34 hrs. ; 130 fr. 60 c). — Climatic raoun-
tain-air station. Two ferruginous spi-ings, very cold and
very effervescino;. For phthisis.
St. Raphael (19^ hrs.; 130 fr. 20 c.). — Winter sta-
tion and sea baths ; summer. May 1 to Nov. 1 ; winter,
Nov. 1 to June 1. For atonic debility, rachitis, scrofula,
lymphatic affections, chest and lung complaints, diabetes^
rheumatism, gout, emphysema, aneema, and chlorosis.
San Remo. — Winter station of first importance ; la-
ttjut scrofula, chronic bronchial, stomachic, and intestinal
Catarrh, emphysema, pharyngitis, laryngitis, pleuritic exu-
dations, incipient phthisis, rheumatism, Bright's disease,
diabetes, and general debility. Nov. to May.
Saxon (18 hi's. ; 73 fr. 55 c). — Brorao-iodurated sa.
line waters, 60° F. For syphilis, scrofula, and gout.
Scheveningen (I5i hrs.; 67 fr. 70 c). — Very well
frequented summer resort; sea-bathing; beach of fine sands.
Scliinznach (17 hrs.; 73 fr.). — Sulphurous waters,
rich in sulphuretted hydrogen and carbonic acid, ^sio in
chloride of sodium and salts of lime, 95° F. For chronic
skiu diseases, eczema, acne, psoriasis, &c., scrofula, chronic
catarrh, bronchitis, emphysema, asthma, r^ ^umatism, gout,
syphilis, mercurialism ; May to Oct.
Schlangenbad (19 hrs. 10 rain.; 81f fr.). — Nine
springs, 75° to 90° F. For menstrual difficulties in delicate
women; general debility in children, women, and ged per-
son's; Efout. pnrtinl pMrnlv<is. Mny 1 to Oct. 1
Schvi^-albach /20 iirs.j f6 tV. 5 c). — Cii;i^-, .oeate wa-
470 CLIMATIC HEALTH RESORTS,
ters. For all female complaints; anscmia, chlorosis, nervous
aifectioiib, debility of mnscles and mucous membranes, espe-
cially catarrlial aflTectioiis of the genital organs. May to Oct.
Spa (8i hrs. ; 44| fr.). — Highly effervescent ferrugi-
nous and acidulous waters. For ansemia, chlorosis, female
complaints, hysteria, gastralgia, sterility, difFicult menstrua-
tion, liver complaints, urinary disorders, cachexia, mucous
catarrh of the uterus, &c. May to Oct.
Bpezzia (28 hrs.; 130 fr. 40 c). — Winter air-cure
and summer sea-bathing resort.
Teplits-Sclionau (32 hrs. ; 145| fr.). — Alkali-saline
waters, 95° to 125° F. For rheumatism, gout, neuralgia,
paralysis, incipient spinal complaints, scrofulous tumors and
sores, fractures, anchylosis, &c. Mav to Nov.
Trotiville (6 hrs.; 28 fr. 65 'c). —Fashionable and
much -frequented summer station; sea baths, sandy beach.
Ullage (14| hrs. ;- 79 fr.). — Saline sulphurous waters,
Sl^ F. For scrofula, chronic affections of the skin, rheuma-
tism, nervous affections, diseases of the eyelids, granular
.pharyngitis, &c. Milk and whey cure. May 15 to Oct. 15.
"Valencia. — Spanish winter resort ; sea baths, sandy beach.
Vals (17-2 brs. ; 87 fr.). — Cold alkaline springs, light,
medium, and strong ; principally used as table waters. For
gravel, liver complaints, and disorders of the spleen.
Venice (30 hrs. ; 154 fr.). • — Sea baths and winter sta-
tion ; sedative climate, somewhat like that of Pau.
Vevey (161 hrs. ; 86i fr.). — Air-cure station, much
frequented on account of the mildness of its temperature.
Vichy (8^ hrs. ; 45 fr.). — Bicarbonate of soda alkaline
springs, 35° to 105° F. For dyspepsia, hepatic disorders,
uric acid diathesis, catarrh of the urinary organs, diabetes.
Voslau (27t hrs. ; 156 fr. 95 c). — A favorite climatic
resort of the Viennese. May Ih to Sept. 30; grape cure,
Sept. to Oct.
Wiesbaden (15 hrs. ; 86 fr. 45 c). — The wateio are
excitant, resolvent, reconstituent, and laxative, 30° to 165° F.
For scrofula, rheumatism, paralysis, and impaired digestion.
Z'ixich. (18 hrs. ; 85 fr. 10 c.i. — Earthy alkaline waters.
DIPLOMATIC AND CONSULAR AGENTS OF THE
UNITED STATES
IN THE
PRIXCIPAL EUROPEAN COUNTRIES
Vienna
Budapest
Prague .
Trieste .
Carlsbad
Brussels
Antwerp
(ihent .
Liege .
Copenhagen
Paris
Algiers.
Calais
Oran
Bordeaux
Austria= Hungary
. Ambassador, Richard C. Kerens
Consul-GeneraJ, Charles Denby
Consul- General, Paul Nash.
Covvsnl, Joseph I. Brittain.
G. M. Hotschick.
" Will L. Lowrie.
Belgium
. Minister, Charles Page Bryan,
Consul-General, Ethelbert Watts.
H. W. Diederich.
Consul, William P. Atwell.
" Henry A. Johnson.
Denmark
. Minister, Maurice F. Egan.
Consul, Wallace C. Bond.
Vice-Consul, Victor Juhler.
France
. Anihassador, Robert Bacon.
Sec. of Embassy, A. Bailly-Blanchard.
Consul- General, Frank H. Mason.
Consul, Albert W. Robert.
" James B. Milner.
. Agent, Albert H. Elford.
. Consul, Alfred K. Moe.
472 DIPLOMATIC AND CONSULAR AGENTS
Boulogne
Agent,
Havre .
Consul,
Brest .
Cherbourg
Cognac
Agent,
Consul,
Limoges
Lyons .
Marseilles
Consul- Gen.,
Toulon
Nantes .
Agent,
Consul,
Nice
' i
Cannes .
Agent,
1VJ.C11LU1IO
Rheims
. Consul,
ivouen . ,
Dieppe .
Agent,
William Whitman.
James E. Dunning.
A. Pitel.
Octave Canuet.
George H. Jackson.
Engene L. Belisle.
Hunter Sharp.
Alphonse Gaulin.
Francis M. Mansfield.
Louis Goldschmidt.
William D. Hunter.
J. B. Cognet.
Achille Isnard.
William Bardel.
Charles A. Hohler.
W. Palmer-Sanborne.
Germany
Berlin
. Amdassador,
" . Sec. of Embassy,
" . Consul- General,
Aix-la-Chajjelle . Consul,
Bremen
Brunsvv^ick
Cologne
Crefeld
Dresden
Diisseldorff
Frankfort,
Hamburg
Leipsic
Mannheim
Mayence
Munich .
Nuremberg
Stuttgart
Weimar
Consul- General,
Consul,
Consul- General,
i I. a
Consul,
David J. Hill,
Irwin B. Laughlin.
Alex. M. Thackara.
Pendleton King.
William T. Fee.
Talbot J. Albert.
Hiram J. Dunlap,
J. E. Haven.
T. St. John Gaffnej.
Peter Lieber.
Richard Giiputher.
Robert P. Skinner.
Consul- General,
Consul,
Samuel H, Shank.
R, S. S. Berg.
Thomas W. Peters.
George N. Ifft,
Edward Higgins.
W. L. Lowrie.
OF THE UNITED STATES
473
Great Britain
London . Ambassador,
" . Consul-General,
Liverpool . . Consul,
Belfast .
Birmingham
Kidderminster . Agent,
Wolverhampton
Bradford . . Consul,
Bristol
Cardiff .
Cork .
Dublin
Dundee
Falmouth . . Agent,
Gibraltar . . Consul,
Glasgow
Hull .
Leeds .
Malta .
Manchester
Newcastle
Nottingham
Plymouth
Sheffield
Southampton
Whitelavv' Reid.
John L. Griffiths.
Horace L. Washington.
Henry B. Miller.
Albert Halstead
James Morton.
Edward T. Cresswell.
Augustus E. Ingram.
Homer M, Byington.
Lorin A. Lathrop.
Henry S. Culver.
Edward L. Adams.
W. Stanley Hollis.
Howard Fox.
Richard L. Sprague.
John N. McCunn.
Walter C. Hamm.
Benjamin F. Chase.
William H. Gale.
Church Howe.
Horace W. Metcalf.
Frank W. Mahin.
Joseph G, Stephens.
Charles N. Daniels.
Albert W. Swalm.
Greece
Athens . . . Minister, George H. Moses.
" . Consul- G-eneral, George Horton.
Patras . . . Consul, A. Donaldson Smith.
Holland
The Hague . . Mm ister, Arthur M, Beaupre.
Amstei-dam . . Consul, Henry H. Morgan.
Rotterdam Consul- Qeyieral, Soren Listoe.
Flushing . , Agent, Pieter F. Auer.
474 DIPLOMATIC AND CONSULAR AGENTS
Rome .
Florence
Geiioa .
Leo'horn
Milan .
Naples .
Palermo
Venice .
Italy
Ambassador, John C. A. Leishman.
Sec. of Embassy, John W. Garrett.
Consul, Chapman Coleman.
'' Jerome A. Quay.
Consnl-General, James A. Smith.
Consul, Ernest A Man.
'■ Charles M. Caughy.
" C. S. Crowningshield.
" William H. Bishop.
' ' James Verner Long.
Christiania . Ilinister, Herbert H. D. PeircEo
'' Consul- General, Plenry Borclewich.
Consul, Felix S. S. Johnson.
Portugal
. Minister, Henry T. Gage.
Consul- Greneral, Louis H. Ayme.
Agent, William H. Stuve.
Bergen .
Lisbon .
. <
Oporto .
Bucharest
St. Petersbin'g Ambassador, Wm. W. Eockhill.
Sec. of Embassy, George P. Wheeler.
" . . Consul, Jacob E. Conner.
Cojisul-General, John H. Snodgrass.
Consul, Alex. Heingartner.
" John H. Grout.
Jlinister, John JR,. Carter.
Co7isul- General, Roland B. Harvey.
Moscow
Batum .
Odessa .
Riga
Vladivostok
Warsaw
Hernando de Soto.
Lester Maynard.
Thomas E. Heenan.
OF THE QNIIED STATES
475
Spain
Madrid . . 2Hnister, William M. Collier.
" . . Consul, Charles L. Hoover.
Barcelona Consul-General, Frank D. Hill.
Alicante . . Agent, Henry W. Carey.
Seville . . . Consul, Charles S Winans.
Malaga . . "' Edward J. Norton.
Valencia . . " Robert Prazer, Jr.
Cadiz . ■ . . Agent, James Sanderson.
Jerez de la Frontera Consul, Percival Gassett.
Teneriffe , . " Solomon Berliner.
Sweden
Stockholm . , Minister^ Charles H. Graves*
Consul- General^ Edward D. Wiuslow.
Gothenburg
. Consul, Stuart J, Fuller.
Switzerland
Berne .
. Minister, Laurits S. Swenson.
((
Consul, George Heimrod,
Basle .
" George Gifforcl.
Geneva .
" Francis B. Keene.
St. Gall
" Dominic I. Murphy.
Zurich. .
Consid- General, Robert E. Mansfield.
Turkey and Dominions
Constantinople Amtassad., Oscar S. Straus.
" Sec. of Emh., Henry L. Janes.
" Consul-Gen., Edward H. Ozmun.
Aleppo . . Consul, Jesse B. Jackson.
Alexandria . . " David R. Birch.
Bagdad . . " Frederick Simpich.
Beirut Consul-General, Gabriel Bie RavndaL
Cairo . " " Peter Augustus Jay.
Jerusalem . . Consul, Thomas R. Wallace,
Smyrna Consul- General, Ernest L. Harris.
A SHOHT VOCABULARY
IN ENGLISH, FRENCH
One.
Two.
Three.
Four.
Five.
Six.
SeveiL
Eight.
Niue.
Ten.
Eleven.
Twelve.
Thirteen.
Fourteen.
Fifteen.
"Sixteen.
"Seventeen,
Eighteen.
-Nineteen,
Twenty,
Twenty-one.
Twenty-two.
Twenty-three, etc.
Thirty!
Thirty-one.
Thirty -two, etc.
Forty.
Fiay.
-Sixty.
"Seventy.
Un.
Deux.
Trois.
Quatre,
Cinq.
Six.
Sept.
Huit
^'eu£
Dix.
Onze.
Douze.
Treize.
Qnatorze.
Quinze.
Seize.
Dix-sept.
Dix-huit.
Dix-neuf.
Vingt.
Vingt-et-un.
Viiigt-deux.
Viiigt-trois, etc.
T rente.
Trente-et-un.
Trente-deux, eto.
Quarante.
Cinquant-e.
Soixante.
Soixante-dix.
OF WORDS AND PHRASES
GERMA:^^, AKD ITALIAN.
Eins,
Uno.
Zwei.
Due.
Drei.
Tre.
Vier.
Fiinf.
Seclis.
QuattrG. "
Cinque.
Sei.
Biebea.
Sette.
A-cbt.
Otto.
NeuTi.
Nove.
Zehn.
Dieci.
Elf.
UndicL
Zwolf.
Dodici.
Dreizehn.
Tredici.
Vierzehn.
Quattordici.
."Fiinfzelm.
Sechzebn.
Quindici.
Sedici.
Siebzehn.
Diecisette; diciasettc
Acbtzeliu.
Dieciotto ; diciotto.
Neunzehn.
Diecinove; diciaimoviS,
Zwanzig.
Venti.
Eiu Tind zwanzig.
Vent' uno.
Zwei und zwanzig.
Venti due.
Drei nnd zwanzig, etc.
Venti tre, etc.
Dreissig.
Ein und dreissig.
Trenta.
Trent' uno.
?.wei und dreissig, etc.
Trenta due, eto.
Vierzig.
'ei'iinfzig.
5echzig.
Siebzig.
Quaranta.
Cinquanta.
Sessanta.
Settanta.
478 WORDS AND PHRASES IN ENGLISH,
Eighty.
Ninetj
A hundred.
Two hundred, etc.
A thousand.
Eleven hundred.
Twelve hundred.
Two thousand, etc.
A million.
The first.
The second.
The third.
The fourth.
The fifth.
The sixth.
The seventh.
The eighth.
The ninth.
The tenth.
The elevfefltti.
The last.
The kst bat ona
Once.
Twice.
The half..
The third.
The fourth.
The fifth.
The sixth, etc
A. river.
A fountain.
A waterfall
The gate.
An hour.
Half an hour.
Quatre-vingt.
Quatre-vingt-dii.
Cent. .
Deux cents, etft.
Mille.
Onze cents.
Douze cents.
Deux mille, et6
Un millioa.
Le premier.
Le second.
Lb troisieme.
Le quatrieme.
Le cinquieme.
Le sixierae.
Le septieme.
Le huitierae.
Le neuvieme.
Le dixieme.
Le onzieme.
Le dernier.
L'avant-demier,
Une fois.
Deux fo's.
La moitie. Dem^
Le tiers.
Le quart.
Le cinquieme.
Le sixieme, etc
Une riviere.
Une fontaine.
Une cascade.
La porte.
Une heure.
' Une demi-beure.
I
FRENCH, GERMAN, AND ITALIAN. 47d
Achtzig.
Neunzig.
Hundert.
Zweiliundertj etc.
Taiiseiid.
Elfhundert.
Zwolf hundert.
Zwei Tausend, etc.
Eine Million.
Der Erste.
Der Zweite.
Der Dritte.
Der Vierte.
Der Eiinfte.
Der Sechste.
Der Siebente.
Der Aclite.
Der Neunte.
Der Zehnte.
Der Elfte.
Der Letzte.
Der Vorletzte.
Einmal.
Zweimal.
Die Halfte. Halb.
Das Drittel.
Das Viertel.
Das Eiinftel.
Das Sechstel, etc.
Ein Eluss.
Ein Brnnnen,
Ein Wasserfall.
Das Thor.
Eine Stunde.
"Wne halbe Stnnde.
Ottanta.
Novanta.
Cento.
Duecento; dugento, etc.
Mille.
Mille cento.
Mille dugento.
Due mila, etc.
Un milione.
II primo.
II secondo.
II terzo.
U quarto.
II quinto.
II sesto.
II settimo.
L' ottavo.
II nono.
II decimo.
L'undecimo; decimo pnifa*^
L' ultimo.
II penultimo.
Una volta.
Due volte.
La meta, MezzG
II terzo.
II quarto.
II quinto.
II sesto, etc.
Un fiume.
Una fontana ; una foutCt
Una cascata.
La porta.
Un' ora.
Una mezz' ora.
WOEDS AND PHRASES IN ENGLISH^
A quarter of an hour.
Sunday.
Monday.
Tuesday.
Wednesday.
Thursday.
Friday.
Saturday.
A holiday
The walls of the town.
A monument.
The tower.
A church.
The cathedral, minster.
A convent.
A chapel.
A palace.'
The town-hall.
The castle.
The theatre.
The custom-house.
The post-office.
The library.
The university.
The exchange.
The bank.
A square.
A bridge.
A shop.
A bookseller's shop.
A coffee-house.
An inn ; a hotel.
A dining-house.
A furnished room.
Breakfast.
Un quart d'heura
Dimanche.
Lundi.
Mardi.
Mercredi.
Jeudi.
Vendredi.
Samedi.
Un jour de fete,
Les murs de la viJUt
Un monument.
La tour.
Une eglise.
La cathedrale.
Un convent.
Une chapelle.
Un palais.
L'hotel de ville.
Le chateau.
Le theatre.
La douane.
Le bureau des posters
La bibliotheque.
L'universite.
La bourse.
La banque.
Une place.
Un ponfc.
Une boutique.
Une librairie.
Un cafe.
Une auberge ; un h6tel
Un restaurant.
Une chambre garnie.
Le deieuner.
FRENCH, GERMAN, AND ITALIAN. 481
Qiue viertel Stunde.
Sonntag.
Montag.
Dienstag
Mittwoch.
Donnerstag.
Freitag.
Samstag; Sonnabend.
Bill Feiertag; eiii Festtag.
Die Stadtmauern.
Eiu Denkmal.
Der Tliurm.
Eine Kirclie.
Das Miinster ; der Dom.
Eia Kloster.
Eine Kapelle.
Ein Palast.
Das Katlihaus.
Das Schloss.
Das Soliauspielhaus.
Das Zollliaus, Mauthhaus.
Die Post.
Die Bibliothek.
Die Universitat
Die Borse.
Die Bank.
Ein Platz.
Eine Briicke.
Ein Kaufladen.
Ein Bucliladen.
Ein Kaffehaus.
Ein Gasthaus ; ein Gastliof.
Ein Speisehaus.
Ein mdblirtes Zimmer.
Das Eriihstiick.
Un quarto d' ora.
Domenica.
Lmiedi.
Martedi.
Mercoiedi.
Giovedi.
Venerdi.
Sabbato.
Un giorno di festa*
Le mura della citta.
Un monumento.
La torre.
Una chiesa.
La cattedrale.
Un convento.
Una cappella.
Un palazzo.
La casa della citfA.
II castello.
11 teatro.
La dogana.
L' ujfizio delle poste.
La biblioteca ; la libreria.
L' universita.
La borsa.
La banca.
Una piazza.
Un ponte.
Una bottega.
Una libreria.
Un calfe.
Un' albergo ; una locanda
Un trattore.
Una stanza mobigliata.
La colazione.
482
WOKDS AND PHRASES IN ENGLISH,
Luncheon.
Soup.
Hoast-beef.
Beef-steak.
Yeal.
Mutton.
Pork.
Eish.
Eggs.
Cake.
Butter.
Cheese.
Beer.
Ale.
Sherrj.
Ices.
A railway.
An express train.
That is true.
I believe so.
It is late.
I am fatigued.
I am thirsty; I am hungry.
It is time to set off.
That is not true.
I did not understand.
Who is it ?
What are you doing ?
What do you want ?
Where are you ?
Where is he ?
What is he doing ?
Where are you going ?
What do you say ?
Une collation.
La soupe.
Du boeuf roti, roast-beef
Beef-steak.
Du veau.
Du mouton.
Du cochon.
Le poisson.
Des oeufs.
Le gateau.
Le beurre.
Le fromage.
La biere.
L'ale.
Le vin d'Oporto.
Le vin de Xeres.
Les glaces.
Un chemin de fe;.
Un train de vitesse.
C'est vrai.
Je le crois.
II est tard.
Je suis fatigue.
J'ai soif ; j'ai faim.
II est temps de partir.
Cela n'est pas vrai,
Je n'avais pas compris.
Qui est-ce ?
Que faites-vous ?
Que voulez-vous ?
Ou etes-vous ?
Oil est-il ?
Que fait-il ?
Oil allez-vous ?
Que dites-vous P
FRENCH, GERMAN, AND ITALIAN. 483
Eine Zwisclieu-Mahlzeit.
Una colazione.
Die Suppe.
La zuppa.
Ochsenbraten.
Dell' arrosto di bue.
Beef-steak.
Beef-steak.
Kalbfleisch.
Del vitello.
Hammelfleisch.
Del castrato.
Schweinefleisch.
Del majale.
Der Fisch.
11 pesce.
Eier.
Delle uova.
Der Kuclien»
La focaccia.
Die Butter.
11 burro, butiro.
Der Kase.
11 formaggio.
Das Bier.
La birra.
Das Ale.
Labirra fattaconformento.
Der Portwein.
11 vino d' Oporto.
Xereswein.
11 vino di Xeres.
Das Eis.
I sorbetti ; i gelati.
Eine Eisenbalin.
Una strada ferrata.
Eiii Sclinellzug.
Convoglio celere.
Das ist wabr.
fe vero. •
Icli glaube es.
Lo credo.
Es ist spat.
E tardi.
Icb bin miide.
Sono stracco.
Ich bin durstig; hungrig.
Ho sete ; ho fame„
Es ist Zeit abzureisen.
E ora di partire.
Das ist nicht wahr.
Cio non e vero.
Ich verstand uicbt.
Non aveva capito.
Wer ist es ?
Chie?
Was macben Sie ?
Che cosa fate ?
Was wollen Sie ?
Che cosa volete ?
Wo sind Sie ?
Dove siete ?
Wo ist er ?
Dov' e ?
Was macht er ?
Che cosa fa ?
Wobin gehen Sie ?
Dove andate ?
Was sagen Sie ?
Che cosa dite ?
484 WORDS AND PHRASES IN ENGLISH,
Did you understand me ?
Is diiiner ready ?
Is it time to go ?
Where shall we go ?
When shall we set out?
Are there any letters for
me?
Come here.
Make haste.
Tell him to come.
Take care. Stop.
Not so quick.
Speak to him.
Do what I tell you.
Go away.
Bring up the carriage.
Call (wake) me at five
o'clock.
Yesterday.
To-day.
To-morro*/»
Every da}.
What name do you give to
that dish ?
Bring me some bread.
Bring me a glass of water.
How much for wine ?
What is the name of it ?
At what hour shall we ar-
rive at X ?
M'avez-vous compris?
Le diner est-il pret ?
Est-il temps de partir P
Oil irons-nous ?
Quand partirons-nous ?
Y a-t-il des lettres poixt,
moi ?
Vfenez-ici.
Depechez-vous.
Dites-lui de venir,
Prenez garde. Arretez.
Pas si vite.
Parlez-lui.
Paites ce que je vous dis*
Allez-vous en.
Paites avancer la voiture.
ReveiUez-moi a cinq
heures.
Hier.
Aujourd'hui.
Demain.
Tous les jours.
Quel nom don^iez-vous ^
ce mets ?
Apportez-moi du pain.
Apportez-moi un verre
d'eau.
Combien le vin ?
Comment rappelez-vous?
A quelle heure arriverons-
nous a X ?
FRENCH, GEKMAN, AND ITALIAN. 485
Haben Sie verstanden ?
1st das Mittagsessen fertig ?
1st es Zeit abzureisen ?
Wohin sollen wir gelien ?
Wanu sollen wir abreisen?
Sind Briele fiir mich da ?
Kommen Sie hier.
Beeilen Sie sich.
Sagen Sie ihm, er moge
kommen.
Geben Sie Acht. Halt.
Nicht so sclmell.
Sprechen Sie mit ihm.
Thun Sie, was icli Ihnen
sage.
Gelien Sie weg.
Lassen Sie den Wagen vor-
fahren.
Wecken Sie mich um fiinf
Uhr.
Gestern.
Heute.
Morgen.
Alle Tage.
Welcben Namen geben Sie
diesem Gerichte?
Bringen Sie mir etwas
Bi-od.
Bringen Sie mir ein Glas
Wasser.
Wie viel fiir den Wein ?
Wie heisst er ?
Um wie viel Uhr werden
wir in X ankommen ?
Mi avete capito ?
h pronto il pranzo ?
E egli ora di partire P
Dove andremo ?
Quando partn-emoP
Ci sono lettere per meP
Venite qua.
Spicciatevi.
Ditegh che venga.
Badate. FermatevL
Non cosi presto.
Parlategli.
Fate quel che vi dico.
Andate via.
Fate venir avanti la cat*
rozza.
SvegUatemi alle cinque.
leri.
Oggi. ^
Dimaui.
Ogni giorno.
Come cliiamate questa pie*
tanza ?
Portatemi del pane.
Recatemi un bicchier d'ai*-
qua,
Quanto costa il vino ?
Come si ehiama ?
A cbe ora arriveremo n(^
a X ?
486 WORDS AND PHRASES IN ENGLISH,
Wliat railway is tliat ?
Is it more expensive ?
At what hour does the
steamboat start ?
What is the fare ?
Have you a printed tariff?
Is the road easy to find ?
How far is it to X ?
What is the usual charge
by the day ?
At what hour does it start ?
Which is the best hotel at
X?
Are the charges moderate ?
Where is the station for X ?
Is this the train to X ?
How soon shall we be
there ?
Stop, coachman ! we wish
to get out.
When must I be ready ?
I wish to see the landlord
of the hotel.
Where is the water-closet ?
Bring me fresh water.
1 with "^-o have breakfast
(suppe3f^
Quel est ce chemin de fer?
Est-ce plus cher ?
A quelle heure le bateau k
vapeur part-il ?
Quel est le prix du pas-
sage ?
Avez-vous un tarif im-
prime ?
Trouve-t-on facilement le
chemin ?
Combien y a-t-il d'ici a X?
Combien donne-t-on ordi-
nairement par jour ?
A quelle heure part-eUe ?
Quel est le meilleur hotel
aX?
Y a-t-on bon marche ?
Oil est I'embarcadere de X?
Est-ce la le train pour X 1
Quand arriverons-nous ?
Arretez, cocher ! nous vou-
lons descendre.
A quelle heure faut-il etre
pret?
Je desire parler au maitre
de Thotel.
Oil sont les lieux d'aisance ?
Apportez de I'eau fraiche.
Je desirerais dejeuner (sou-
per).
FRENCH, GERMAN, AND ITALIAN
487
fWas 1st das fiir erne Eisen-
bahii ?
1st es theurer ?
Um "wie viel Uhr falirt das
Dampfschiff ab ?
Wie viel betragt das Passa-
giergeld ?
Haben Sie einen gedruck-
teiiTarif?
1st der Weg leicht zu fin-
den?
Wie weit ist es von hier
nacli X ?
Was bezalilt man gewobn-
licb fiir den Tag ?
Um wie viel Uhr fabrt er
ab?
Welches ist der beste
Gasthor in X ?
Ist es billig dort ?
Wo ist der Balmhof nach X?
Ist dies der Zug nach X?
Wie bald werden wir dort
sein ?
Halt, Kutsclier ! Wir wol-
len aussteigen.
Wann muss ich fertig sein ?
Icb wiinsche denHerrn des
Hauses zu sehen.
Wo ist der Abtritt ?
Bringen sie frisches Was-
ser.
Ich wiinsche dasEriihstiick
(das Abendessen).
Quale h questa slrada Telf*
rata ?
h piu caro ?
A die era parte il batello
a vapore ?
Quanto costa il trasporto
de' passeggieri?
Avete una lista stampata.
E la via facile a trovarsi?
Quanto distante e X ... da
qui ?
Quanto si spende al giorno
di solito ?
A che era parte ?
Qual e il miglior albergo in
X?
Sono i prezzi equi cola P
Dov' e 1' imbarcatoio di X ?
E quello H traino per X ?
Ci arriveremo presto ?
Fermatevi, vetturino, vo-
gliamo discendere.
A che era debbo esser
pronto ?
Yorrei parlare al maestro
di casa.
Dov' e la ritirata ?
Portatemidell' acquafresca.
Vorrei far colazione (ce-
nare).
488 WORDS AND PHRASES IN ENGLISH,
Give me sometliiug to eat.
At what hour do we dine ?
Show me your bill of fare
and list of wines.
Bring me the newspaper.
Is he ready ?
Which is the way to the
post-office ?
How much is the postage ?
Send that letter to the post.
Where does a banker live ?
I wish to see a medical man.
What fee should I give
him ?
Can I have a warm bath ?
Bring me some soap.
Order a hackney-coach for
me.
Make a good fire.
How much have I to pay?
Bring me my account.
Turn to the right, left,
straight forward.
How much is charged for
admission ?
What direction must I
take?
Can I have dinner ?
Donnez-moi quelque chos6
a manger.
A quelle heure dinons.
nous ?
Montrez-moi la carte.
Apportsz-moi le journal.
Est-il pret ?
Pourriez-vous m'indiquer
la poste aux lettres ?
Coaibien pour le port ?
Faites jeter cette lettre a la
poste.
Oil demeure un banquier ?
Je desire voir un medecin,
Combien faut-il lui donner?
Pourrais-je avoir un bain
chaud ?
Apportez-moi du savou.
Faites-moi venir une voi-
ture de louage.
Faites un bou feu.
Combien dois-je ?
Apportez-moi mon compte.
Prenez a droite, a gauche,
marchez tout droit.
Quel est le prix d'entree ?
Quelle direction faut-il qug
je prenue ?
Pourrais-je y diner?
I
FRENCH, GERMAN, AND ITALIAN. 489
Geben Sie mir etwas zu
esseii.
Uin wie viel Ulir speisenwir
zu Mittag ?
Zeigeii Sie mir den Speise-
zettel.
Bringeu Sie mir die Zeituug.
1st er bereit ?
Welches ist der Weg zur
Post ?
Wie viel betriigt das Porto ?
Seuden Sie dieseu Brief zur
Post.
Wo wolnit eiu Banquier ?
Ich wiiusche eiueii Arzt zu
spreclieii.
Wie viel Houorar soil ich
- ihm gebeii ?
^ami ich eiu warmes Bad
bekommen ?
Briugeu Sie mir Seife.
Bestellen Sie mir eiue
Lohnkutsehe.
Macheu Sie eiu gutesPeuer.
Wie viel habe ich zu be-
zahlen.
Briugeu Sie mir die Rech-
iiuug.
Geheu Sie recht«, liuks,
geradeaus.
Wie hoch ist der Eiutritts-
preis ?
Welche Richtuug muss ich
uehmeu ?
Kau ich das Mittagsessen
habeu ?
Datemi qualclie cosa
uiangiare ?
A che ora si prauza f
da
Mostrateuii la lista e la notSb
dei viui.
Portateuii la gazzetta.
h egli all' ovdhie ?
Potreste iudicaruii U cam-
niiuo che va alia posta P
Quauto costa il porto P
Pate portare questa letters
alLi posta.
Dove abita uu bauchiere P
Desidererei parlare con un
medico.
Quauto gli debbo dare P
Potrei avere iiu baguo
caldo ?
Portatemi uu po'di sapoue.
Ordiuatemi una carrozza da
nolo, uu fiacre.
Pate un buon fuoco.
Quauto vi debbo ?
Portatemi il mio conto.
Si Volga a destra, a sinistra,
vada diritto,
Quauto costa il biglietto
d'iugresso ?
Qual direzioue devo pren*
dere ?
Potrb avervi il prauxo P
490 ~ WORDS AND PHEASES IN ENGLISH,
How muclif
Have you no better ?
It is- fine.
It is very hot.
Does it rain ?
It is cold.
Send for a cab.
Coachman, drive me to the
station.
Where is the baggage-
room?
Please to give me tv^o first-
class tickets to X.
lere tney are.
;y"hat do they cost ?
At what hour is supper
ready.
That's very dear.
Where are our rooms ?
Have any letters arrived for
Mr. N., poste restante?
Here is my passport.
Is breakfast ready ?
Give me a drink.
What o'clock is it ?
What kind of weather is it ?
How do you do ?
Yery well, I thank you.
Have you a room to let ?
Combien ?
N'avez-vous rien de meil.
leur ?
II fait beau.
II fait tres chaud.
Pieut-il ?
II fait froid.
Eaites chercher un fiacre.
Cocher, conduisez-moi au
cliemin de fer.
Oil est le bureau de ba-
gages ?
Deux billets de premiere
classe pour X, s'U vous
plait.
Voila, monsieur.
Combien ces billets P
A quelle heure soupe-t-on?
C'est bien cher.
Oil sont nos chambres ?
Y a-t-il des lettres poste re-
stante pour Monsieur !N . ?
Voici mon passeport.
Le dejeuner est-il servi ?
Donnez-moi a boire.
Quelle heure est-il?
Quel temps fait-il ?
Comment vous portez-vous ?
Eort bien, je vous remercie.
Auriez-vous une chambre
a me louer ?
p
FRENCH, GERMAN, AND ITALIAN. 491
Wie viel ?
Haben Sie niclits Bes-
seres ?
Es ist schon.
Es ist sehr heiss.
Regnet es ?
Es ist kalt.
Lasseu Sie eine Droschke
liolen.
Kiitscher, faliren Sie micli
nacli der Eisenbalm.
Wo ist die Gepackan-
nahme ?
Ich bitte um zwei Billete
erster Klasse nach X.
flier siud sie.
WiQ viel kosten sie ?
Um wie viel Ulir ist das
Abendessen fertig ?
Das ist sehr tlieuer.
Wo siiid unsere Zinimer ?
Sind Briefe angekommen
far Herrn N.^
Hier ist mein Pass.
Ist das rriihstiick fertig ?
Geben Sie mir zn triuken.
Wie viel Uhr ist es ?
Wie ist das Wetter ?
Wie befinden Sie sicli ?
Sebr wohl, icli daiike Ilmen .
Haben Sie ein Zimmer zii
vermiethen ?
Quanto ?
Non ne avete di miglioref
Fa bel tempo.
Fa caldissinio.
Piove ?
Fa freddo.
Fate cercare un fiacre.
Cocchiere, coi)ducetenii alia
strada ferrata.
Dov' e r ufficio deglieffettiP
Due biglietti di prima
classe per X, se vi place
Ecco, siguore.
Quanto avete pagato pe^i
questi biglietti ?
A clie ora si cena ?
E carissimo.
Dove sono le uostre ch
mere ?
Vi sono lettere per il Sig
nor N. post a restante ?
Ecco il mio passaporto.
E in tavola la colazione ?
Datemi da bere.
Che ora e ?
Che tempo fa ?
Come sta?
Benissimo, la ringrazio.
Avrebbe una camera d
affittare ?
TRAI^ELLEES' ±je3LE GRAPHIC CODE.
Before maMng ui^e of the tvordf^ in this Code, it is essential
that intending users should satisfy themselves that the friends
with whom thty intend to correspond have in their possession
'^e same edition of ihe work as the one about to be used.
This Code is intended as a means of reducing tlie expense
of telegraphing. A single woi'd means a whole sentence.
A copy of the Code should he left with the person at home
to whom telegrams would naturally be sent (whose name and
address should be registered at the local telegraph-office).
The blank ciphers are for private phrases, to form a personal
Code between two persons, who may agree upon certain sen-
tences, and write them carefully in their two books. This
Code has been made up expressly for The Complete
Pocket-Guide.
Almond Telegraph to .
Almost Telegraph as soon as possibla
Aloes Telegraph your reply.
Aloft Telegraph and keep us well posted.
Aloof Inform us hy telegraph.
Aloud. Telegraph us what to do.
Air Telegraph if you do not understand our despatch.
Ajar Cannot understand your telegram. Please repeat.
Akin We cannot understand tlie word in your tele-
gram. Please repeat it.
Alack The word you do not understand is — — .
Alarm , . . .Your despatch received.
Agog Answer my telegram of— — .
Agony .Answer immediately by telegraph.
Aided. Answer by telegraph at — -.
Alter Telegraphed you, but have no reply.
Alum Have you received our telegram of — ?
Amaze Have received your telegram of — — .
Amber If you wish to communicate with me by telegrajrtl,
do so at , before — =-.
Amboy Please advise by telegraph.
Amen Get despatch at telegraph office.
Amical Before despatch received, we had — — .
Amidst ....Have you sent us a despatch to-day?
Aniity- If we don't telegraph you by — — , you may con-
clude — '■
I
TBAVELLERS' TELEGRAPHIC CODE. 493
Ample. If you don't telegraph us by • ,we shall —
Amplify What is reaBon of delay in reply to our telegramf
Amuse
AnalogTT
Anatomy ....
Ancestor
Anchor.......
Ancient
' Andiron
Anew
Angrel
Angry
Animal .....
Animate
^nkle
Annals --
Annex
Annul
Appeal
Apply
.\pron •.
Baby Your letter of — is recmveu.
Sack Your letter is received.
Bacon Send letters kere untU the— -«v
Badly Send letters to — -until the— ^
Backstay Send letters care of——.
Badger We write you .
BafQ.e "We wrote you last maiL
Bag Will write you at once.
Ball Full information by to-day's maiL
Bake Have sent you letter by to-day's mau.
Balcor "t Letter was sent.
Bald Answer by mail
Ballad No letter to-day ; telegraph contents if inuiorfiaitl
Balm Have received no letters since ^
Banjo Forward no letters after —^.
Bandit We forwarded letters to — «— on the — — -
494 TRAVELLERS' TELEGRAPHIC CODE.
Banner Your letter of received and agreed to.
Banquet Your letter of received and answered.
Baron All matter to date has been forwarded.
Bazar Have you any mail matter on hand for us ?
Beadle Await our letter.
Beast We have advices which, in our opiuinof may cauge
your return to -. Where will a lel^ey s«on«*i
reach you?
Beauty We have written you fully on the f vt,it*'.<:
Beckon What is reason of delay in replying t,^ i-jw let^ *
Bed
Beef
Befog
Beggar ,.
Betide .........
Bestow
Betray
Biceps
Birch
Blast ....o
Behead
Behold ..o......
Belay .....o
Bench
Belt .............
Bias e
Biped ....,.,..,«
Birthday ....«
Bishop
Bivalve ......»«
Blaci£iesr —"»
Blaze
V
TEAVELLERS* TELEGRAPHIC CODE. 495
Cabin ...We shall return at once hy ——,
Daboose , ...We shall return at once by the — — .
Cadet We shall sail for home on the — =-.
Cage We sail — — .
Dake When does — -sail?
CJalico We think it best to delay departure.
Calxa ..We think it best to delay departure until ——. Ifao
further advice, shall leave on that day for w
Caloric Cannot leave' .
Uameo Cannot leave until — — .
Camp Cannot leave = . Will sail by next steamsr*
Janal Have missed steamer.
Canary Have missed steamer ; will sail by next,
Candy When does leave?
Cane Steamer sails on .
Jannon Sailing postponed until .
Uanopy Tickets lost; send duplicates.
Canteen ...Arrived all well; pleasant passage. Tell — -^
Canvass ...Arrived all well, but stormy passage. TeU — .
Caper Arr. all well; pleasant passage. Shall proceed to i .
Caprice Arr. all well, but stormy passage. Shall proc. to— «-•;
Oapsize Arrived all well ; have written.
Cap sule Arrived all well. Address letters to — — .
Captain Has arrived?
Caramel . . .He arrived on — — .
Caravan ...He has not arrived.
Carbon Return at once.
Card Return as soon as possible.
cardinal ...Return at once. Important matters demand your pres«
ence here.
Careworn. .Things look blue. Unless strong reason to the contraif,
should like to have you shorten your trip.
Cargo You need not return.
Carmine ...You need not return until .
Catnip You must be here by the .
Caxton Impossible to return untU— — ,
Cement Arrange for our return.
Central Cannot return unless .
Chafe If agreeable, will remain — — .
Chair "When wiU you return?
Chancel ..."V^hen do you expect to be hei-e ?
Chaos We shall be with you by the ——.
Chapter ....Secure passage by this steamer.
Charcoal ...We shall come by the train leaving at i «%
Chariot .Wp shall arrive at this station bv train due at ^"^
Charity
Charm
Cherisli
496
TEAVELLERS' TELEGRAPHIC CODE
Cider .....
Cimeter.
Cipher ..
Circuit ..
Citadel
Clack
CoU
CoUc
Confront ...
Dabble Send cable transfer for — — , through — -.
Dabster Send me new credit for — — , through — — .
Dactyl Remit to me by telegraph through — — .
Daffodil ....Remit by mail: —
Dagger £5
Dainty 10
Dale 15
Dally . ........ 20
Damper 25
Dance 30
Dandy 35
Dangling 40
Daring 45
Dark 5u
Darkey ......£55
Dashed 60
Daub 65
Daylight 70
Daytime 75
Deacon .» 80
Deadeye ...... 85
Deaf 90
Debased 95
Debatable ...100
Debility ...£I25
Debut 150
Decamp 175
Decay 200
Deceit 250
Decide 300
Decimal 400
Declare 500
Decrease ...Remit at once.
Deem We have remitted.
Deface Have you forwarded remittance?
Defeat We cannot remit.
Defection... We cannot remit more than — — .
Defence ....We send draft by first mail.
Defiance ....Will honor draft.
Deform Will honor draft to amount of — — .
Defrayed ..Will you honor my draft r
Deftly Will you honor my draft to amount of
Delve Please prepay passage per .
Demerit ....Please prejjay passage, and telegraph name of steamei.
Dexnocrat- • Have prepaid your passage per , sailing on — ~^
TRAVELLERS' TELEGRAPHIC CODE. 4t91
Demon ..... Are without ftmds j aend money to — — r
bentist
Ounce '
Damask =..•
Dastard ...-
Daughter ..
Debris
Destiny
Deck
Denizen
Denote .-
Dense
Depose .....
Depress .....
Derange ....
Device .......
Dilute .......
Disclose ....
Distress ....
Divan «
Dock ^
Dome
Dowdy
Drab
Drama
Drill «
Dress
Drum
E agle In conseqiience of illness of — -, we are detained hern.
Send letters here uutil the .
lElartll — ■'— is better, and we hope to leave on tlie -"'j*.
£iast —— ~ is seriously ill ; will advise vou again.
■498 TRAVELLERS' TELEGRAPHIC CODE
Ebony — is sick, but not dangerously.
Echo is iiiiprovinji; slowly.
Edible is very iiiucU l)ei,ter ; no need of your retummg
Editor — - is no better. Would eoiiie home at once.
Educate .... is in a critical condition.
Efface • is rapidly sinking.
Effort — — ■ died last niglit.
Eg'ress — — died yesterday.
Elapse died to-day.
Elaborate .Please e.icprcss our sympathy.
Electric We are all well, and there is no need of your retumiug
Elevate Hope all are well.
Enchant . . .AH are well.
Elixir
Elongate .,.
Elope
Eluded
Empire
Emiilate ...
Endow
Engine
Gadfly Stay as long as you like. Everything is as it should he,
and all are well.
Gaiter Everything sound, and doing well.
Galaxy We propose extending tour.
Gallant We propose extending tour to — — . It all right, tel&
graph.
Game When will you be in - — ?
Garden We expect to reach — - by ■ .
Garrison . . . Will meet you at .
Gastric We wish to know where you can be met between no»
and .
Gazette ...Do as yon think best.
Gender Can you arrange?
Genial We can arrange.
Geyser We cannot arrange.
Ghost Everything satiafactorilv.air-«,^.£-eiL
If
TRAVELLERS' TELEGRAPHIC CODE 499
Gimlet "We think it advisable to .
Ginger We think well of .
Girlhood . . .We do not think well of — — .
Gladden . . . .Act according to your own iudg;ment..
Glancing ...Kow is business?
Glass Business is good. Everything all right.
Gleam Auytlung the matter ? No word from you by mail or wiw
Glide Send us word at once.
Glinimer ...Nothing the matter; all well. Have written.
Glisten Do nothing until you hear from me.
Glory Where is — — ?
Glue Do you know address of ?
Goblin Address of party is •.
Goddess .:.. Address cannot be given.
Gondola . . . When did you send — — i
Goodness ..Have you done so ?
Gotham ....Have you done anything I*
Gothic Keep this confidentiaJL
Gouge '
Gout
Govern
Gown
Grab ....
Grade ,
Gradual ..,
Gram.niar..
Greedy
Griet „
Grocer ...
Growl
Grain..
Gruft ..
Guard
Guanc
Tuide..
•••♦
INDEX.
^BEVILLE, 166.
Abbotsford, 94.
Aberdeen, 83.
Abergele, 31.
Abo, 455.
Adelsberg, 258.
-ffitna, Mount, 386.
Aghadoe, 8.
Agrani, 258.
Ahrweiler, 225.
Ailsa Craig, 59.
Airolo, 283.
Aix-la-Chapelle,
203.
Aix-les-Bains, 440.
Alatri,371.
Albacete, 414.
A.ll>ano, 366.
Alessandria, 305,
Alfort, 196,
Algeciras, 421.
Alicante, 414.
Alio way, 58.
Alpnacii, 284.
Althorp Park, 125.
Altorf, 282.
Amalfi, 383.
Ambleside, 45, 44.
Amboise, 198.
Ambras, 265.
Aaaiens, 166.
Amsteg, 362.
Amsterdam, 215.
Anagni, 371.
Anagno, Lake, 377.
Ancoua, 328.
Andermatt, 283.
Andernach, 226.
Anglesea, 27.
221,
Angoulfime, 439.
Annan, 56.
Annesley, 108.
Antemnfe, 366.
Antibes, 399.
Antwerp, 211.
Aosta, 295.
Apennines, 328.
Appian Way, 363.
Aqua Acetosa, 365.
Aquino, 371.
Aranjuez, 426.
Arbroath, 83.
Arcachon, 439.
Ardchattan, 74.
Ai'drishaig, 79.
Arenfels, 225.
Arezzo, 338.
Ariccia, 367.
Aries, 401.
Arnhem, 217.
Arona, 299, 398.
Arras, 166.
Ashton, 10 i.
Asni^res, 165.
Assisi, 339.
Assmannsliausen, 232.
Athlone, 23.
Auburn, 23.
Augsburg, 266.
Avernus, Lake, 378.
Avignon, 403.
Avoca, Vale of, 30.
Awe, Loch, 78.
Ayr, 58.
BacharacHj 231.
Badajos, 434
Bade'n-Baden, 273.
BaggMge, xii.
"^aia, J78.
Baireuth, 270.
Balearic Isles, 409.
Ballater, 84,
Balmoral, 84.
Balquhidder, 73.
Bamberg, 270.
Banavie, 76.
Bangor, 38, 36.
Bannockburn, 81.
Barbizon, 197.
Barcelona, 406.
Baslf, 374.
Bassenthwaite. 53.
Bath, 157.
Battle Abbey, 155.
Bayonne, 433.
Baziascli, 256.
Bedford, 125,
Belcaro, 339.
Belfast, 25.
Belgium, 201.
Belgrade, 256,
Bellaggio, 300.
Bellinzona, 379.
Belvoir Castle, 107.
Ben Ledi, 72, 73,
Ben Lomond, 70.
Ben Venue, 71, 72.
Bergamo, 307.
Bergen, 448.
Berlin, 341.
Bernardino Pass, 379.
Berne, 387.
Bernese Oberland,385i
Bernina Pass, 380.
Besangon, 404
Beverley, 103.
Biarritz, 433.
Bienne, 391.
Bingen. 233.
f
INDEX
501
Birmingham, ix/, 124.
Black forest, 272, 273.
Blaruey Castle, 4.
Blois, 197.
Blue Grotto, 382.
Bologna, 322.
Bonn, 222.
Boppard, 230.
Bordeaux, 437.
Bordighera, 396.
Borromeaa Isles, 299.
Boston, 106.
Bothwell, 68.
Bougival, 194.
Boulogne, 161.
Bowness, 45.
Bozen, 265.
Bracciano, 370.
Bradford, 103.
Braemar, 84.
Bray, 20.
Bremen, 239.
Brenner Pass, 265.
Brescia, 307, 305.
Brest, 168.
Brieg, 296.
Brienz, 284.
Brighton, 155.
Evindisi, 328
Bristol, 158.
Britannia Bridge, 27.
Broek. 217.
Bruck, 258.
Bruges, 207.
Briinig Pass, 284.
Brunswick, 238.
Brussels, 204.
Bucharest, 257-
Budapest, 255,
Bulgaria, 257,
Burgos, 433.
BiitC; 79.
Buttermere, ^2.
Cadeijabbia, 301.
Cadiz, 421.
Caen, 167.
Caernarvon, 29.
Calais, 161.
Caledonian Canal 76.
Sallauder, 73.
Camaldoli, 337.
Cambridge, 123.
Canipagna, The, 364.
Cannes, 398.
Cannstadt, 267.
Canossa, 325.
Canterbury, 160.
Capellen, 229.
Capri, 382.
Capua, 371.
Cardilf, 158.
Cardross, 67, 69.
Carlisle, 55.
Carlsbad, 249.
Carlsruhe, 272.
Carrara, 392.
Caserta, 381.
Cashel, 14.
Cassel, 238.
Cassino, 371.
Castel, 235.
Castellaniare, 381.
Castel Gandolfo, 367.
Catania, 385.
Canb, 231.
Cauterets, 437.
Cawdor Castle, 78.
Certosa, La, 304, 337.
Cesena, 327.
Cette, 406.
Chalons, 200.
Chambord, 198.
Chamounix, 293.
Chantilly, 195.
Charleroi, 202.
Charlottenburg, 245.
Cliartres, 168.
Chateau Thierry, 199.
Chatham, 160.
Cliatillon, 197.
Chatsworth, 109.
Chaumont, 198.
Chaudfontaine, 203.
Chenonceaux, 198.
Cherbourg, 167.
Chester, 32.
Chiavenna, 279.
Chiemsee, 261.
Chillon, 291.
CUioggia. 320.
Chiswick, 154.
Ciiristiania, 445.
Civita, Vecchia, 389.
Clarens, 2'»i.
Cloyne, 5.
Coblence, 227.
Cuburg, 240.
Coimbra, 435,
Coire, 278.
Colchester, 154.
Col de Balme, 292.
Colcraine, 24.
Colico, 301, 279.
Cologne, 218.
Conio, Lake, 300.
Conipiegne, 196.
Coniston Lake, 46.
Conneniara, 23.
Constance, 275.
Consiils, xviii.
Conway, 29.
Copenhagen, 441.
Coppet, 290.
Cora Linn, 68.
Cordova, 415.
Cork, 3.
Cornice Road, 395,
Correggio, 325.
Cortona, 338.
Coventry, 112.
Cracow, 257.
Cremona, 310, 305.
Ci'onstadt, 456.
Culloden, 78.
Cumae, 378.
Daemstabt, 27S.
Delft, 213.
Denmark, 441.
Derby, 108.
Derbyshire, Peak o^
108.
Derwentwater, 52i
Dieppe, 161,
Dijon, 198.
Dinan. 168.
Dissciitis, 279.
Domo d' Ossola, 288.
Douai, 201.
Dover, 161.
.Drac>>eniel3.223.
502
INDEX.
Dresden, M&.
Drogheda, 20.
Drontlieimj 447.
Dryburgh Abbey, 94.
Dublin, 14,
Dulwich, 153.
Dumbarton, 66.
Dumfries, 56.
Dunblane, 81.
Dundee, 83.
Dunkeld, 83.
Dunottar Castle, 83.
Durham, 95.
Diisseldorf, 218.
Eastbourne, 155.
Eaton Hall, 35.
Eaiix-Bonnes, 437-
Eaux-Chaudes, 437.
Ecclefechan, 55.
Eddystone Light, 159.
Edenhall, 54.
Edinburgh, 85.
Ehrenbreitstein, 238.
Ehrenfels, 233.
Eisenach, 239.
Elsinore, 444.
Elstow, 125.
Eltville, 234.
Ely, 123.
Emmerich, 217, 218.
Ems, 228.
Engadine, 279.
Enghien, 195.
England, 32.
Erfurt, 240.
Ermenonville, 196.
Escurial, 429.
Esthwaite, 44.
Eton, 151.
Etretat, 162.
Evora, 436.
Evreux, 167.
E-eter, 159.
Eaenza, 327.
Faro, 436.
F6camp, 162.
Ferentmo, 371.
Eerney, 289.
Ferrara, 321.
Fiesole, 337.
Florence, 329.
Fliielen, 282.
Folkestone, 160.
Foligno, 339.
Fontainebleau, 196.
Foiii, 337.
Fort Augustus, 77.
Fountains Abbey, 97.
France, Northern, 161.
France, Southern, 397-
Frankfort, 336.
Frascati, 368.
Freiburg, 273, 288.
Frejus, 399.
Frosinone, 371.
Frutigen, 287.
Fulda, 239.
Furca Pass, 383.
Furness Abbey, 43.
Filrstenberg, 332.
G-ALWAY, 23.
Garda, Lake of, 301,
303.
Gastein, 260.
Gemrai Pass, 287.
Geneva, 289.
Genoa, 393.
Genzano, 367.
Germany, 318.
Gerona, 406.
Ghent, 209.
Giants' Causeway, 24.
Gibraltar, 420.
Giessbach, 385.
Girgenti, 389.
Giurgevo, 257.
Glamis Castle, 83.
Glasgow, 60.
Glastonbury, 153.
Glen Fruin, 67.
Gorner Grat, 295.
Gotha, 240.
Gothenburg, 445.
Granada, 417.
Granville, 167.
Grasmere, 50.
Gratz, 258.
Greenock, 67, 80.
Greenwich, 153.
Grimsel Pi.ss, 283.
Grindelwald, 385.
Grotta Ferrata, 368i
Haaelem, 215.
Hague, The, ^13.
Hal, 201.
Halle, 241.
Hamburg, 339, 441.
Hamilton, 67.
Hammerfest, 448.
Hammerstein, 226.
Hampstead, 153.
Hampton Court, 152.?
Hanover, 238.
Harrogate, 98.
Harrow, 154.
Hastings, 155.
Havre, 162.
Haworth, 103.
Heidelberg, 370.
Helensburgh, 67.
Helvellyn, 51.
Herculaneum, 379.
Highgate, 153.
Highlands, ScottisUi
68.
Holland, 212.
Holyhead, 27.
Homburg, 237.
Hotels, XX.
Hull, 103.
Hy&res, 399.
Innsbkuck, 264.
Interlaken, 285.
Inverary, 70.
Inverness, 78.
Inversnaid, 71, 69.
lona, 76.
Ireland, 1, 26.
Iron Gates, 257.
Irongray, 57-
Irun, 433.
Ischia, 383.
Ischl, 260.
Iseo, 301.
Isola Bella, 299.
Italy, 297.
Jerez, 422.
Johannisberg, 233.
Julier Pass, 279.
Jungfrau, 286.
INDEX.
503
Kaa^jEhsteg, 287.
Kasan Defile, 257.
Katrine, Loch, 71.
Kelhoini, 269.
Kenil worth, 114.
Keswick, 52, 53,
Kew, 152.
Kidderminster, 111.
Killarney, 6, 10,
Kingstown, 21.
Kouiorn, 255.
Konigsstuhl, 230, 271.
Konigswinter, 223.
Konigstein, 248.
Kreuznach, 233.
Laach, 226.
Laekeii, 206.
Lahueck, 230.
Laibach, 258.
Lanark, 68.
Lausanne, 288, 199.
Leamiiigton, 121.
Lscco, 301.
Leeds. i02.
Le^-hor.,, 389.
Leipsic, ,240.
Leith, 91,
Lemberg, 257.
Lerida, 411.
Lerins, Isles of, 399.
Letter of Credit, ix.
Leuk, Baths of, 287,
296.
Leyden, 215.
U^ge, 202.
Lille, 202.
Limerick, 13.
Lincoln, 105.
Link oping, 444.
Linlithgow, 82.
Linz, 225, 259.
Ijisbon, 434.
Lisieux, 167.
iLiiverpool, 36, viii.
Lland^fF, 158.
Locarno, 299.
liodorc, 52.
Lomond, Locii, 65f.
i.'Ondoh, :28.
LoiilondciTy, '^5.
Lorch, 233.
Louvain, 207.
Lucca, 392.
Lucerne, 280.
Lugano, 300, 279.
Luino, 299.
Lund, 444.
Lurlei,231.
Luxembourg, 204.
Lyons. 403.
Macon, 199.
Madrid, 426.
Magdeburg, 238.
Maggiore, Lake, 298.
Majorca, 409.
Malaga, 419.
Malaniocco, 320.
Malmaison, 194.
Malmo, 444.
Manchester, 104.
Mannheim, 271.
Mantes, 165.
Mantua, 310.
Marburg, 238.
Margate, 154,
Marino, 368.
Marksburg, 230.
Marly, 195.
Marseilles, 399, 297.
Martigny, 292.
Matterhoru, 295.
Mauchline, 57.
Mayence, 234.
Maynooth, 22.
Meaux, 199.
Mechlin, 210.
Meiringen, 284.
Melrose, 93.
Menaggio, 300.
Menai Bridge, 28.
Mentone, 397.
Mer de Glace, 293.
Messina, 384,
Metz, 233.
Meudon, 197.
Milan, 302.
Minorca, 409.
Miramar, 259.
Modena, 324, 310.
Monaco 397.
Money, xv.
Monreale, 388.
Mons, 201.
Monserrat, 408.
Mont Blanc, 293.
Monte Cenis, 297.
Monte Rosa, 295.
Montgomerie, 58.
Montmdrencv, 195.
Montpellier, 405.
Montrose, 83.
Morat, Lake, 291.
Moscow, 460,
Moselle River, 228.
Mouse Tower, 233.
Mt. St. Michel, 167,
Munich, 261, 310, 249,
Murano, 320,
Murren, 286,
Naiun, 78.
Namur, 202.
Nancy, 200.
Naples, 370.
Narbonne, 406.
Nemi, Lake, 367.
Neuchatel, 291.
Neiiwled, 226.
Newark, 107.
Newcastle, 95,
Newmarket, 124.
Nice, 398.
Niederwald, 233.
Niederwerth, 227.
Nijni-Novgorod, 463.
Nlmes, 401.
Nisida, 377.
Nonnenwerth, 324.
Northampton, 125.
Norway, 445.
Nottingham, 107.
No vara, 306.
Nuremberg, 267,
Oban, 74, 78.
Ober-Ammergau, 264
01)erwesel, 231.
Ocean Voyage, viL
Odessa, 462.
Oporto, 436.
Orange, 403.
Orleans, 197.
604
INDEX.
Orta, 301.
Orvieto, 338
Ostend, 207
Ostia, 370.
Otranto, 328.
Oxford, 125.
Padua, 311.
PiKstum, 383.
Palermo, 387.
Palestrina, 369.
Palma, 409.
Paris, 168
Parma, 324.
Passports, ix.
Pau, 436.
Pavia, 305.
Perpi2;nan, 406.
Perth; 82.
Perugia, 338.
Pesaro, 327.
Peschiera, 301, 308.
Pesth, 255.
Peterborough, 121, 106.
Pfalz, 231.
Piaoenza, 310, 305.
Pierrefonds, 196.
Pillnitz, 247-
Pisa, 390.
Pistoja, 328,
Plymouth, 159.
Poitiers, 440.
Pompeii, 379.
Pontresina, 280.
Port Mahon, 409.
Portsmouth, 156.
Portugal, 434.
Posilippo, 376.
Potsdam, 245.
Pozzuoli, 377.
Prague, 248.
Presburg, 255.
Procida, 382, 383.
queenstown, 2.
Ragatz, 277.
■Railways, xvi.
Rarasgate, 154 .
Rapperschwvl, 277.
Ratisbou, 26'9.
Ravel lo, 383.
Ravenna, 325.
Reggio, 325, 384.
Remagen, 225.
Renfrew, 66.
Rheims, 199.
Rheineck, 226.
Rheinfels 230.
Rheinstein, 232.
Rliense, 230.
Rhine, 222.
Rhone Glacier, 283.
Richmond, 152.
Righi, The, 281.
Rimini, 327.
Ripon, 97.
Riva, 302.
Rochester, 159,
Rolaudseck, 224.
Rome, 340.
Roslin, 92,
Rothesay, 79.
Rotterdam, 212.
Roubaix, 202.
Rouen, 163.
Roveredo, 265, 310.
Rovigo, 321.
Rowardennan, 69.
Riidesheim, 233.
Rueil, 194.
Rugby, 12L
Russia, 455.
Rustchuck, 257.
Rydal, 49.
Rydc, 1.57.
Saot^ntum, 412.
St. Albans, 154.
St. Andrews, 83.
St. Bernard Pass 294.
St. Cloud, 193.
St. Denis, 195.
■^t. Germain, 194.
St. Goar, 230.
St. Golhard Pass, 280,
279
St. Malo, 168.
St. Maurice, 292.
St. Moritz, 280.
St. Petersburg, 456.
St. Quentin, 201.
St. Thf'odule Pass, 295.
Salerno, 383.
Salisbury, 156.
Salzburg, 259. ^ 1
Salzkaniinergut, 260, B
San Manno, 327, ^ '
San Renio, 395.
San Sebastian, 433.
Santarem, 434.
Saragossa, 410.
Savona, 395.
Saxon Switzerland.
247-
Sa.von-les-Bains, 295.
Sceaux, 197.
Schaffhausen, 275.
Scheveningen, 214.
Schiedam, 213.
Schonbrunn, 254.
Scotland, 56.
Sebastopol, 462.
Sedan, 200.
Semmering Pass, 25S»
298.
Servia, 256.
Seville, 422,
Sevres, 194.
Sheffield, 105.
Sicily, 384.
Siena, 3.39.
Simplou Pass, 295, 294,
Sion, 295.
Solfatara, 377.
Solferino, 308.
Sorrento, 381.
Southampton, 156.
Spa, 203.
Spain, 405.
Spezia, La, 393, 325.
Spires, 271.
Spliisren Pass, 37?'.
Staffa, 75.
Stahleek, 231.
Staubbach, 286.
Steamships, x.
Stirling, 80.
Stockholm, 449.
Stolzenfels, 229.
Strasbourg, 272, 200.
Stratford-on- Avon, 118,
Stut.tgart, 266.
Subiaco, 369.
INDEX.
505
dweden, 449.
Switzerland, 274.
Syracuse, 38G.
Taormina, 385.
Taranto, 328.
Tarascon, 403.
Tarragona, 413.
Teplitz, 349.
Temi, 339.
ThrasYmene Lake, 338.
Throndhjem, 447.
Tlmn, Lake of, 286.
Tivoli, 368.
Toledo, 430.
Torcello, 321.
Torquay. 159
Tortosa, 412.
Toulon, 399
Toulouse, 439,
Tours, 198.
Trent, 26", 310.
Treves, 339.
Trouville, 1()3.
Trieste, 331, 258.
Trossachs, The, 71.
Tunbridge Wells, 155.
Turin, 305,
Tusculum, 368.
Tyrol, 364.
Ullswater, 48.
Ulm, 266.
Upsala, 454.
Url)ino, 328.
Utrecht, 217.
Valence, 403.
Valencia, 412.
Valenciennes, 201.
Valladolid, 432.
Vallombrosa, 337.
Vaucluse, 403.
Velletri, 371.
Venice, 313, 307.
Verona, 308, 307
Versailles, 191.
Vesuvius, 379.
Vevav, 291.
Via Mala, 278.
Vicenza, 311.
Vifhv, 440.
IVieiiua, 250.
Vienne, 403.
Vincennes, 181.
Vi^ALES, 27.
Walhalla, The, 269.
Wallenstadt, Lake, 277.
Vl^artburg, 239.
Warwick, 116.
Waterloo, 206.
Weimar, 240.
Wells, 158.
Wiesbaden, 237, 234.
V/isfht, Isle of, 157.
Wifdbad Gastein, 260.
Wilhelmshohe, 238.
Winchester, 156.
Windermere, 44, 45-
Windsor, 151.
Worcester, 112.
Wo rail s, 371.
Wiirzburg, 270.
YoEK, 98.
Yverdon, 291.
Zaandam, 217.
Zerniatt, 295.
Zurich, 276, 2^
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