■:;s^?t

"M

THE COMPLETE

POCKET-GUIDE

TO

EUROPE

EDITED BY

EDMUND C. STEDMAN

AND

THOMAS L. STEDMAN

NEW YORK

WILLIAM R. JENKINS CO,

48th St. and Sixth Ave.

LONDON

BAILLIERE, TINDALL & COX 8 Henrietta Street, Strand

1910

Unij . I, lit lUUii, by William H. JtNK

r^

^

c\^

r.lA'<>

Copyright, 1898,1899, 1905. by William E. Jenkins Copyright, 1907, 1908, 1910, William R. Jenkins Co.

All Bights Reserved

Cl.Ag6580i

Printed by thb Press of William R. Jenkins Co.

New York

NOTE BY THE EDITORS.

THIS book has been for many years before the ^ ;^ lie, and is thoroughly tested by increasing us© among travellers through the portions of Europe gen- erally covered in a single tour. It resulted from ob- servation of the trials undergone by those equipped with the larger and. more cumbrous handbooks. We devised the Pocket Guide because such a work was sorely needed, and no one else undertook this practi- cal service. The ends desired were : 1. Fuller and better arranged details of Routes, Points of Interest, Fares, Hotels, Currency, etc., than are given in many books of greater proportions. 3. Legible type and good maps. 3. A real Pocket Guide, so com- pact as to be carried in a man's coat or hip pocket, or in a woman's dress-pocket or muff .

The work has been revised from year to year, and to an average of coi-rectness at least equal to that of any other condensed guidebook. New maps and other improvements have been added. The vrlume however, has been rigidly kept within its original size. We believe that the Pocket Guide is as near what it claims to be as editorial diligence can makQ it, and trust that it now, more than ever, will add to the comfort of travellers from our own and othe? English-speaking countries.

The Editors.

	Yjssnii	1—1	C5	S5	CO	CO	:
	MatlHAVg atavj^rjSLad	:o CO	:o I— 1 00 T-l	:o	:o		'i
'	aKynoH	o CO ba	o O bD	o CO	O CO	o 00	''
	i^NTHaa^)		Pi O a"	a T— 1 CO	P. T— 1 00	ttH P( rH 00
	(AiaCM) viHisny		S		fl 8		I
	(aao) TiHisny		'a ba T— 1 o o o o |^^ e c a	CO	CO	CO	a il o c;	1
	ATYJ^I	o T— 1	h5	f4 T-H
	N;iyds	o P(	P.	-2 i	p. rH	c c p c c 6:
	-HaziiMg MnIO^aa aoNv>i^	o 00	an	rH	<«H rH
	HiyxiHa xvaaf)		H o	CD	■d 05	c/; M
	YayMYO saxYig aaiiNfi		00	rH	-H		"^
i		<	H in C5fQ	■« J H ■<	02	1— 1	<(1

	^ ^	CO	;4	ubel 00 peks
^	-^	e^	lO
		:o	« 2
to	:o	o	i=o	C5
■ g	05 00	«	1- o	^1
		T— 1		'"'
		•32 S	o	o CO fao
		d-i	(tH	tM
<«-l	•i<i-^.Sf	Pi	Pi	Pi
Pi	*-S 5	o	CO	<X>
S	525 5^ ^	1-	T-H	n
	a.		i—i	(TJ
U b	a		rf	.d
c«s u	s-	M	1. 1	-*
©o =	1— 1
	■N	a	w	W
	r-l		'-'
				.t^
.y	W	bo	M
s	C5 kC	T-l		&D
o	o	o	o	o
Id		oo		i-
o	OJ	o	CO
1-3	•^	tA	1^	>A
	r-l	OJ	T— 1	S5
o	o	o	o	o
lO	00	CO	Ol	1:-
o	c^	C2	CO	O- •
Pi	Pi	Pi	Pi	Pi
tH		C'i	1— 1	s<>
O	C3	o	o	o
lO	CO	CO	cs	1—
o	<M	o	CO	«D
M	^1	p	^^	;^
	dH	(M	<*H
^^			T— 1
			■d
		•^	■ci	\«
•d	W	oo	T— 1	1—1
	T-l	03	03
'"'		'"'	r-l
CO	CO	M	cr	»n
f~>	^	o	CO	T-l
•	^	<^.	lO
Eh g		a		1— 1 02
a	J	is s oi	CC
«	o	s ^o	U
<	O	w	fioiSz;	P^

f1 ^^ »^ "

•^^ ^ Ph nj ^ O-t^ ""^

w •- ^ '^ c5

.•::; p: jh 33 2

•r- Pl '^ d ^ S • Pi fi

'- PI N rt 02^4^5.2 03

■mMrU

^•S^ SCO 2s go.

t3©^2^2S^®5

>-; -3

© ^ cSi.o

-O ^..^-^

Cj"3.rH O "^^ ."°

o ft'S 5

1—1 +-+-"-3

-(J p, O 0;

bc+j o f-i pi c« PI 9>

C fj © >• Sj O ri n»

•- ,-, O

no?

S rt 07:^ tSJ ^E_l W r-l ^

ABBREVIAl'IONS.

M. .... Mile, or miles, ft. ....Feet.

in Inches.

sq. . , , . Square. N. .... North, S. .... South.

E East.

W. .. . . . West.

r. Right (handX

1. .... . Left (hand).

rly. . . . Railway.

Stat. . . . Station.

ch. ... Church,

hr. „ , , , Hour, min. . . . Minutes.

£ Pounds sterling.

a. . . < . Shilling, or shillings k. , , . Krone.

d. . . . . fr. ....

c* • « «

fl. ....

mk.,mks

pf. .

kr.

L ..

r. . .

Sun.

Mon.

Tues.

Wed.

Thurs.

Fri.

Sat.

Penny, or penca Franc, or francs. Cents, centimes, orc«a

tesimi. Florin or florins. . Mark, marks. Pfennige. Kreutzers. Lira, or lire. Reales. Sunday. Monday. Tuesday. Wednesday. Thursday. Friday. Saturday.

The names of the most important towns, buildings, and collections are printed in full-faced type. Other notable places and objects, ©f less importance, have titles in italics.

In many cases, as of churches and public buildings, conspicuous events, etc., the date of erection or of occurrence is placed directly after, in parentheses.

Statements which have for many years been regarded locally as Unchallengeable facts (e. g., the preservation of the heads of St Peter and St. Paul in the Lateran Basilica, Rome), are repeated in Ibese pages without comment.

CONTENTS.

Page

Tabt^e ov Moneys iv

Abbreviations vi

A Chapter on Travel vii

Arrangements for the Journey viii

Steamships— The Ocean Journey x

Money, etc xv

Railway Travel xix

Hotel Expenses, etc. xx

Golfing— Cycling xxv

Automobile Regulations xxvii

Customs Regulations xxx

Ireland , 1

Killarney— The Lakes 6

Dublin 14

Belfast, Giant's Causeway, etc 33

North Wales 27

England (Chester) 33

Liverpool 36

English Lake District 42

Scotland (The Land of Burns) 56

The Scottish Highlands 68

Stirling, Perth, Aberdeen 80

Edinburgh, Melrose, Abbotsf ord 85

England (Newcastle, Durham, York) ,...,.... 95

Manchester, Lincoln, Derby 103

Coventry, Warwick, Stratford 113

London 128

Excursions in Southern England 151

Routes to the Continent 159

Northern France 161

Paris 168

Routes from Paris to Switzerland 198

CONTENTS

Belgium 201

Brussels and Environs 304

Ghent, Bruges, Antwerp, etc 207

Holland 212

grermany and austria 218

Up the Rhine Iby Steamer 223

Berlin 341

Dresdren and Prague 246

"V^ienna 350

Southeastern Europe 255

Munich and the Tyrol 261

Switzerland (Basle, Zurich) 274

Lucerne, Righi, St. Gothard 280

Berne, Freiburg, Lausanne, Geneva , 387

Chaniounix and Mont Blanc 29^

St. Bernard and Simplon Passes 294

Italy (Routes into Italy) 297

The North-Italian Cities 303

Florence 329

Rome 340

Naples, Pompeii, Sorrento, Capri 370

Sicily ; 384

Southern France (Nice, Marseilles) , 397

Aries, Nimes, Avignon, Lyons 401

A Round Trip in Spain 405

Portugal 434

A Tour in the North 441

Norway and Sweden 445

Russia 455

Alphabetical Table of Health Resorts 463

Diplomatic and Consular Agents of the U, S, 471

Travel-Phrases in Four Languages 476

Travelers' Telegraphic Code 493

Index 500

THE COMPLETE POCKET-GUIDE TO EUROPE.

A CHAPTER ON TRAVEL.

riOURTEOUS READER,— When you have laid aside you prejudices, donned your garments of travel, and set your foot upon the gang-plank of the steamer bound for Europe, it will not be our fault if you discover that you have forgotten something. If you have bought this our little book, and read this preliminary chapter, you will depart for foreign lands with all your preparations properly made.

This Guide describes, as minutely as possible within the limits of a "handy volume," a continuous tour through Northern, Middle, South-eastern, and Southern Europe. The writers hope and believe that if you follow exactly the routes which they de- scribe from the first to the last page of the book, yon will have seen intelligently, at a minimum of cost and inconvenience, the most interesting sections of Europe, and all within four months. By suppres- sing the trip down the Danube and some parts of the Scottish and Sicilian tours, and the Scandmavian and Spanish tours, this can be reduced by thre« weeks. Many summer tourists seem disinclined ^^ visit N". Germany and Austria. This, we think, ifc a decided error of judgment; but it is evident that if these sections are not visited, the time is reduced

viil A CHAPTER ON TRAVEL.

H

by another ten days. Most travellers can, with a trifle of care and patience, sit down with this book before them, and by its aid plan a journey which, including the ocean voyages out and back, shall not take up more than four full months, and can be made with ease and enjoyment.

Especial attention has been paid, in the preparation of this volume, to giving the local raikoay and steamboat fares, — a feature in which nearly all other English and American guide-books are sadly deficient. We believe that our work will be found very complete in this particular. Several hundred letters were written to station masters in all parts of Europe for the purpose of securing extreme accuracy. In most cases we think our fares will be found correct. Railway fares, how- ever, vary considerably in Italy during the course of a year, and our fares may sometimes be found a bit higher or lower than those prevalent in that country ; b\it the difference will be slight. We have done our best to secure accuracy and fulness of detail. The traveller will be duly grateful, after he has tried in vain to find what he wants in the "A B C's" and " Bradshaws " of Great Britain, and has puzzled his brains over the complicated Continental hand-books. We think that the route which we recommend and desciibe may be followed from beginning to end with no other guide than this one, which can be carried in the breast-pocket. The writer has been over nearly every route described.

Arrangements for the Journey.

Try to arrange your journey so as to reach Europe by tlie first of May. With a view to this, secure your steamship tickets very early in the year. When you

AUllANaEMKN'l'S I'OR 'I'ilK .lOCiLN J;; Y IV

have fl('f;i(l(Ml oti l,li(5 (1h((! of your «l('|»;i,rl,ur(', arid Uie prohiitdc, U-M^Ui of yoiii" aliHeiice from liomc, h((*)» inl.o a proniiiiciiit Ixuiker's in thfi city in whi(!ii you msidc, or l-ho Hcnfjort whonce you 8ail, and 8t!curo a Ij<dl('/r of (Jrcdit or (Jireidar JSInim for a fiuni wliich you d(io;n Hiillicicnt to cover your exfmn.sfiH until you jir*'. ul> liouK! a/^'iiiii. Allow a margin foi- <'(jn(,in{^(--,n(;ie8. On IIk; \n'\.\i-Y of Cn-dit n^•t^ I Ik; addri'MHcs of perhaps 1 wo hiiMdr<!d of l,lie liiidin;^ \M.\i\i\t\^ Iiouhcm of. I'liirope, a,nd you liavo '"dy to call oti any one of I he.si' for such huiuh as you wImIi in tlic euircncy of tiMi country where you may happen to be. Tlie 'J'raiudnrs' (JIuu-Jch also afl'cjrd an excellent meaiiH of i:;i.rryinf? readily available futidn abroad. They are accepted by most of the hotels and sJiops as freely as the money of the country, and are therefore found very useful by the toui-ist who may v/ant small sums outside of fjard<in^ hours, or who nuiy not iind it convenient to interrupt Ids sight-seeinj^Miy a call at the bard<er's. Buy at a IjroUer's a few English sov- ereigns, for use on steamer, at lanrling at Ijiver() jol, or Queenstown, or SoulliMuipton, or other ports.

Tiike a I'li.HHport. CirfMimstanees may occur in winch it will be positively necessary for you to have one. Address a letter to the "State Department, Passport Bureau, Washington." asking foi' the printed form necessary for application for the document. When you get this foi'm, till it out, swear to its contents before a notary, and send it back to the State Department, inclosing the go- vernment t.MX of ^l. In due time you will get your passport. One is sidflcient for man and wife, or num and family where there are no grown up sons or daughters, If a passport serves

viii

A CHAPTER ON TRAVEL.

by another ten days. Most travellers can, with a trifle of care and patience, sit down with this book before them, and by its aid plan a journey which, including the ocean voyages out and back, shall not take up more than four full months, and can be made with ease and enjoyment.

Especial attention has been paid, in the preparation of this volume, to giving the local railway and steamboat fares, — a feature in which nearly all other English and American guide-books are sadly deficient. We believe that our work will be found very complete in this particular. Several hundred letters were written to station masters in all parts of Europe for the purpose of securing extreme accuracy. In most cases we think our fares will be found correct. Railway fares, how- ever, vary considerably in Italy during the course of a year, and our fares may sometimes be found a bit higher or lower than those prevalent in that country ; b\it the difference will be slight. We have done our best to secure accuracy and fulness of detail. The traveller will be duly grateful, after he has tried in vain to find what he wants in the "A B C's" and " Bradshaws " of Great Britain, and has puzzled his brains over the complicated Continental hand-books. We think that the route which we recommend and describe may be followed from beginning to end with no other guide than this one, which can be carried in the breast-pocket. The writer has been over nearly every route described.

Arrangements for the Journey,

Try to arrange your journey so as to reach Europe by tlie first of May. With a view to this, secure your steamship tickets very early in the year. When you

ARRANGEMENTS FOR THE JOURNEY ix

have decided on the date of your depaiiure and the probable length of your absence from home, step into a prominent banker's in the city in which you reside, or the seaport whence you sail, and secure a Letter of Credit or Circular Notes for a sum which you deem sufficient to cover your expenses until you are at home again. Allow a margin for contingencies. On the Letter of Credit are the addresses of perhaps two hundred of the leading banking houses of Europe, and you have only to call on any one of these for such suras as you wish in the currency of the country where yoii may happen to be. The Travelers^ Checks also afford an excellent means of carrying readily available funds abroad. They are accepted by most of the hotels and shops as freely as the money of the country, and are therefore found very useful by the tourist who may want small sums outside of banking hours, or who may not find it convenient to interrupt his sight-seeing by a call at the banker's. Buy at a broker's a few English sov- ereigns, for use on steamer, at landing at Liverpool, or Queenstown, or Southampton, or other ports.

Take a Passport. Circumstances may occur in which it will be positively necessary for you to have one. Address a letter to the "State Department, Passport Bureau, Washington," asking for the printed form necessary for application for the document. When you get this form, fill it out, swear to its contents before a notary, and send it back to the State Department, inclosing the go- vernment tax of $1. In due time you will get your passport. One is sufficient for man and wife, or man and family where there are no grown up sons or daughters. If a passport serves

X A CHAPTER ON TRAVEL. ^^m

for more persons than its holder, he should askto have a note made upon it that Mr. -^ is accompa- nied by . Passports are absolutely necessary if

any one is suddenly called on to prove his or her identity. They are useful in securing admission to public buildings, private art galleries, etc. Some- times the regulations exacting them are revived for s, few days between two countries, because of a diplo« matic tension or imbroglio, and the person who has none will find his journey interrupted, and will suf- fer loss of money, time, and temper.

Steamships. — The Ocean Journey.

A voyage across the Atlantic is to-day such a common undertaking that most travellers make as brief preparation for it as if they were going by train from New York to Chicago.

The choice of steamships is very large. Try to secure your berths some weeks in advance of sail- ing; a deposit of $25 is in most cases sufficient, and this you are supposed to forfeit if you fail to take the ship, although you may generally post- pone your departure by giving prompt notice of your desire to do so. Most of the lines give special rates for return tickets, the lowest fares usually ex- cepted.

Among the lines specially to be recommended are the White Star, New York to Liverpool, calling at Queen stown, every Wed. (fares, $75 to $825) ; from Boston to Liverpool, via Queenstown, once a month on Sat. ($60 and up); Mediterranean service from "Boston and N. Y. every other Sat. (Naples, $75 to $100) . The Cunard, N. Y. to Liverpool, via Queenstown, Sat. ($65 to '^^250); from Boston to Liverpool. Tues. ($65 to $150); Mediterranean service trom N. Y. to

THE OCEAN JOURNEY Xi

Naples and Trieste ($70 and up). American (only- line sailing under the American flag-) steamers sail every Sat. for Southampton, with tickets to London, or Paris via Cherbourg ($90 to $125 in summer, $75 to $100 in winter ; also from Philadelphia every Wed. for Queenstown and Liverpool ($40 up). North German Lloyd express steamers for Bremen (calling at Plymouth and Cherbourg), Tues. ; twin-screw pas- senger steamers for Bremen (also calling at Plymouth and Cherbourg), Thurs. ($150, scaling down to $75); Mediterranean service every Sat. or second Sat. direct to Gibraltar and Genoa or Naples ($150, $100, $80). Hamburg- American express steamers to Ham- burg (calling at Plymouth and Cherbourg) every Thurs., and special sailings by twin-screw steamer ' ' Deutschland " during the season (summer $100 up, winter $55 up) ; regular service to Plymouth, Cher- bourg and Hamburg every Sat., and special sailings during the summer (summer $75 up, winter $65 up) ; Mediterranean winter service to Gibraltar, Genoa and Naples ($65 up). Transatlantique steamers sail every Thurs. to Havre direct ($140, $100, $75, in- cluding wine).

Other popular lines are the Holland- America, every Wed. to Rotterdam via Boulogne ($65 up) ; Red Star, from N. Y. to Antwerp every Sat. ($55 to $110); Atlantic Transport, N. Y. to London, every Sat. ($55 up); Anchor, every Sat., to Glasgow ($50, $60, $75, or by special steamer, occasional sailings, $60, $80, $100) ; Scaiidinavian-American, to Den- mark, Norway and Sweden direct, Thurs. (summer $60, $65, winter $50. $55) ; Wilson, N. Y. to Hull, occasional sailings, $40.

The choice, as you see, is varied enough to suit any purse, and the accommodation on even the most

Xii A CHAPTER ON TRAVEL.

inexpensive of the ships is good. For inform^fitioa as to sailings of these steamships from European ports for home, consult the list of sailings issued by the various Ss. Co.'s and the daily journals.

The question of Baggage for a European tour is very important. Our advice is to take with you in any case one large, stoutly built American trunk, plainly marked with your name, place of abode, etc. Have it well hooped about, and see that it possesses a capital lock. Into this put everything that you are certain not to require on the ocean voyage. Then pack such articles as you will need either in a roomy valise or in one of the small, flat cabin trunks, built 60 that they will go under a berth, which may be had at any trunk-maker's. Ladies will find these " cab- in trunks *' almost indispensable. Take with you plenty of warm clothing, and make it a rule in travelling on the Continent always to have over- coats, cloaks, etc., at hand. You will find them as necessary in Switzerland and Italy as in Scot- land and North Germany. When you reach Liverpool, if you Intend to return by that port, you can leave your cabin- trunk stored at a hotel or steamship office, if you think you will not re- quire it. Then have your large trunk sent from point to point where you may need it, but travel on all short excursions, trips of two or three days, etc., unencumbered by anything that you cannot carry in your hands. Eve^^ jf a valise is rather vol- uminous, you can take u into railway carriages with you all over the Continent* It is not wise to restrict one's self in amount of baggage ; while the rates for overweight are high in some countries they are low in others. In Great Britain you can carry

THE OCEAN JOURNEY. xili

almost anytliiug except a house with you and no ques- tions are asked. A good portion of the equipment of a masculine traveller may be purchased after his arrival in Europe. He would better bring his American over- coats, but hats, shoes, rugs, linen, etc., can be had to advantage in Great Britain or France. Besides, by wearing European hats and shoes you will save money. It is a mistake to say that a man is known by the com- pany he keeps ; he is known by .his hat and shoes. They are the distinguishing marks of his make-up. Travelling suits for gentlemen should be modest in color ; black clothes are handy when one arrives at a fashionable watering-place or a large town, and even- ing dress is highly necessary in London in the season, and in long stops in other cities it is of course fre- quently required. We shall not venture to offer the ladies advice about what to wear, further than to repeat our injunction concerning plenty of wraps, and to hint that thin shoes should not be worn in travel. Ulsters and linen dusters should be avoided ; the ulster, outside the British Islands or at sea, looks odd and is useless. A waterproof coat is extremely useful. An umbrella, stout enough to serve the purpose of a cane, should be taken. Woolen socks and thick-soled shoes are the things lor travel. Travelling suits for gentlemen cost in Great Britain or France about one third as much as in America. They are not made so well, nor of such good material as our own, but they are very serviceable.

On, the Steamslii'p Voyage keep ni the open air as much as possible. If you suffer continuously from sea- sickness, struggle up on deck daily, and in one of the adjustable steamer chairs, to be provided by yourself.

xiv A CHAPTER ON TRAVEL.

remain in recumbent posture, well wrapped up, but do not pass a moment of daylight down stairs, except when at meals or in very rough weather. The' deck steward will even bring you your meals, if necessary. If the ship pitches violently, lie with your head to- ward the bows. If you are well, and wish to remain :so, avoid heavy food, heating liquors, intense appli- cation to books or cards. Just live, eat, and sleep, and when you reach land you will be amazed to observe how you are rested. Avoid late suppers. •Get up early, and get on deck at once. When you a,re approaching land the question of stewards' fees w^ill come up. We should say give the steward who waits on you at table lOs. ; your berth-room steward somewhat less, according to the trouble you have made him, and the deck steward about 5s. ; the "boots" and bath-man must be remembered if you have been served by them. But if you cannot afford so much, give less; the servants expect something, but they never grumble at the amount.

Landing at Queenstown is very simple. You go off in a tug, which transports you up the bay from Roches Point (see Ireland). Customs formalities same as on

Landing at Liverpool. — We strongly advise tourists to leave the steamers at Queenstown, and go through Ireland first, but we feel convinced that large numbers of them will proceed to Liverpool. The landing ar- rangements at this great port are not so perfect as they might be, and have recently suffered some small alterations. Passengers formerly left the steamers in tugs, and came up to the Prince's Landing Stage, where there is a kind of custom-house, and where they were usually kept waitii^^, _-bout an hour. Now ships usually go into dock before discharging passengersi

The custom-house officers search for cigars and spirits only; if you have neither, you will soon have . your "luggage" on a cab or dray, and be on your way to the North Western or Midland Railway stations, or to your hoteL

Money — A Word of Explanation.

In Great Britain the money is pounds, shillings, and pence (£ s. d,). In France, Belgium, Switzer- land, Italy and Spain there is a decimal currency. In the first three countries the reckoning is in francs and centimes; in Italy it is in tire and centesimi ; in Spain, pesetas, reales and centimos. But gold coins of any of the five above-named countries circulate freely in all of them. The French twenty-franc piece, called napoleon, or louis, is current money anywhere in the Continent. In Holland the money is reckoned in guilders and ce7its. There are 100 cents in a guilder, which is 40 cents of our money. In Grermany the reckoning is -in marks and pfennig e. The mark is about 24 cents gold, and there are 100 pfennige in it. When you give one pfennig to a begear, he never troubles you again. In Austria you must reckon in gulden and kreutzers. The gulden is 40.6 cents of our money, and is divided into 100 kreutzers. In Austria there is now a new system in which the unit is a crown, which is equivalent to a fraction over 20 cents of our money, divided into 100 heller. You will observe that in giving the local railway fares in these different countries, we have used abbreviations : Pounds, shillings, pence, £, s., d. ; francs and centi- mes, fr., c. ; lire and centesimi, 1., c. ; pesetas, p. ; etc. In Portugal the money is counted in rets, of which it

xvi A CHAPTER ON TRAVEL

takes ten to make one cent. In Russia miles and kopeks are the money. The gold coins most in use 'on the lines of travel which you are likely to take are sovereigns and half-sovereigns TEnglish) ; — the guinea (21s.) no longer exists, although it is still used in reckoning ; — twenty, ten and five franc pieces ; twenty-mark and ten-mark pieces. In Sweden, Norway and Denmark the krone (|0.268)- is the basis of reckoning. Be careful not to bring Italian or Austrian paper to Paris or London. You will lose very heavily on it. English, French and German bank notes are as good as gold. The French have notes of fifty, one hundred, five hnndred, and one thousand francs, and these are extremely convenient to carry on the Continent, but they are not current in other countries. (See ComparativQ Table of Moneys following title-page.)

Railway Travel.— You will find first, second, and third class everywhere (save upon the English Midland Railway and a section of the Great Northern, which have no second class) ; and w^e have given the fares for each class in all cases when practicable. Express trains on the Continent have no third class ; but in Great Britain nearly all trains have it. First-class is best for long jonr- nevs ; second good enough for short ones ; and third worth taking now and then, particularly in England and Germany, for the purpose of study- ing the common people. Second-class in Germany and Austria is almost as comfortable as first-class in England and France. On a long journey from France into Germany, you may frequently take *'a mixed" ticket wnth advantage, i e., first in France and second in Germany. A srentle-

A WORD OF EXPLANATION xvii

man traveling alone and not afraid of a little fatigue may take third-class through from London to Glasgow or Edinburgh, or from London to Liverpool, saving just half the sum he would expend in iirst-class. lu England and Great Britain, generally, people speak of "taking" a ticket and "booking" a place. The " booking-office " is where the tickets are soki The conductor is called the " guard." This phraseology appears to have been left over from the old coaching days. Be sure and attend to your "luggage" care- fully. Get a label pasted on any piece that you pro- pose to leave in the "luggage van," and when you reach your destination, be on hand to claim your things. There is no checking system. Small bags, wraps, etc. can always be left in a " cloak room " at any railway station for hours or days. Eees trivial. Employes are civil and obliging, but all expect small compensation. Do not make the mistake, either in Great Britain or on the Continent, of giving large gratuities. In the British Islands smoking-carriages are provided on every train; in Erance and some other Latin countries smoking is permissible, by general consent, |in any carriages except those reserved for ladies only ; in Italy, only in smoking compartments ; in the Ger- manic lands smoking is wellnigh universal, although every train has its clamen-cowpe, and its compartments Fiir nichtraucher. The coupes, or end compartments with windows in front, — another survival of diligence and coacli customs, — may be hired at reasonable charges above tlie first-class fares, and should generally be engaged beforehand at the station. In Erance and Middle Europe generally the tariff is about 16 francs per seat per thousand kilometres. A party of four, going through from Paris to Cologne, or commg from Nice to Paris, will find a coupejvorth taking. Do not"

xviii A CHAPTER ON TRAVEL.

n.

trust too implicitly to information furnished by rail- road and steamship officials, for it may be mislead- ing. Among R. R. guide books, " Bradshaw," price 6d., is the most compact for Great Britain; the Chaix ** Guide des Chemins de Fer de I'Europe " will do for the Continent. It contains all that may be found in the local guides published in Germany, Switzerland, etc., costs only 40 cents, and is corrected several times yearly. Most guides are furnished with maps, from which you can gain very clear ideas of the location of the lines along which you travel. On excursions, re- member that return tickets can generally be had at a discount from the regular fares. Return tickets are usually available only on the day on which they are sold, and by the first train of the next. Saturday tickets, however, generally extend until the first Mon- day train. On the Continent the terms for returns are much more liberal than in Great Britain. " Cir- cular tickets" are issued in nearly all countries, and ample information concerning them is given at rail- way stations, hotels, banks, and in the newspapers. There is usually a saving — (there is certainly great convenience) — in buying these circular tickets, espe- cially to those who, for example, wish to go from Paris to Switzerland, and after visiting that country to return directly to France. There is a great variety of excursion tickets and hotel-coupon arrangements, by which inexperienced travellers, or those who do not care to explore their own routes, may be aided in travelling, passing all over the Continent and the Levant under efficient chaperonage. Prominent among these is the agency of Messrs, Thos. Cook & Sons, Messrs. Raymond & Whitcomb, and Messrs. Henry Gaze & Sons. There are sleepiiig-cars

RAILWAYS. XiX

on many English, and Continental lines ; in Great Britain are like our own; on the Conti- nent the "Mann Boudoir Car" is in use. This latter is Yery comfortable, but the rates are extrava- gantly high. The Boudoir Cars are called wagons^ lits, "bed- wagons," in most Continental countries; their office in Paris is No. 3 Rue Scribe. Between Paris and Vienna, Paris and Geneva, Paris and Turin and Florence, and often E,ome also, Paris and Berlin and Russia, etc., there is a regular sleeping-car service. The Russian cars are larger and more elegant than the other Continental ones; and in Russia and Switzerland a modified Ameri- can railway-carriage, in which, however, class dis- tinctions are kept up, is in use. The amount of baggage carried free in France, Spain, and Sweden is 66 pounds; in North Germany, Austro-Hun- gary, Holland and Russia, 55 pounds ; in Great Britain, any reasonable amount ; in South Germany, Belgium, Italy and Switzerland, there is no free bag- gage, but the rates are not extravagant. In some parts of Italy and Switzerland there have been great complaints that baggage has been plundered in transit by baggage-masters and trainmen; hence the necessity for first-rate locks already men- tioned. Parcels, and baggage when forwarded to be called for later, should be sealed. Indeed, the railway companies generally insist on this, and refuse articles which appear to be insecurely fastened. In all Continental countries, when your baggage is weighed, a receipt is given you, and the number on it corresponds to that pasted on the trunk or valise. Even if there is no excess of weight, yon must have a receipt. In some cases, in going from an important city in one country to an impor- tant city in another, your baggage can be "registered through," and examined when it reaches destination;

A CHAPTER ON TRAVEL.

in others, although registered through, it must be ex- amined at the Irontier. The examination is a pure formality almost everywhere. In vexatious cases noth- ing is gained by grumbling and scolding. Small fees to railway servants, guards, etc., always meet with prompt return in civility and privilege. At all German and Swiss railway depots, apply to the portier for information. In Italy tiie railway facchini are paid accordnig to tariff, — 4 soldi (cents) for a trunk, 2 for a bag or valise, and in proportion for a bundle of wraps, etc. In Rome, however, this tariff is raised to 5 and 3 soldi. The refreshment rooms in England, Scotland, Italy, Spain, and North Germany are not very-good; in otlier countries they are excellent. On long journeys carry your own basket, especially in Italy and Spain, where fruit, bread, and Avine may be had in the open-air markets for a song, but in hotels are purposely held very dear. In Italy and Eussia a window on the wind- Ward side of a railway carriage cannot be kept, ©pen if any person in the compartment ob.iects. .^

Hotel Expenses ■

must naturally vary much according to taste and in- come of the traveller. Our lists of hotels are carefully selected, and we beheve that the houses recommended will be found satisfactory. Great Britain is an ex- pensive country by comparison with Switzerland or Italy; in Germany cities are expensive, small towns and country cheap. The American will notice with some surprise that Hfe in Europe is, as a whole, no longer much if any cheaper than in America. To live even carefully at a first class-hotel in any part of Great Britain costs about four dollars or four dollars and a half daily, divided somewhat as follows: breakfast.

HOTEL EXPENSES. xxi

from two and six (two shillings and sixpence) to three and six; lunch, about same price; dinner, without wine, five shillings ; room, from four and six to eight and six, and invariably one and six for attendance. Wines are as dear, with few exceptions, as in the United States. There are, however, good hotels, where you may live at about ten shillings daily; and private boarding-houses in the large cities where it will cost from seven to ten shillings daily — ■ rarely under ten. A person very economically inclined may possibly live for six shillings daily, but not in rapid travel. On the Continent you may calculate that if you reach a hotel at nightfall, dine or sup and sleep, and take early breakfast there, your bill will be 12 or 13 francs. For a stay of some days ycu may manage not to spend more than from ten to fourteen francs daily. In large capitals, simply take room at your hotel, and your first meal there. The others can be had to suit your purse and con- venience at restaurants. In Germany, Switzerland, and some parts of Italy, the tables d'hote are cheaper than the restaurants. If you want a cheap room in a hotel, say so ; there is no surprise at economy in Europe. Travellers should carry their own soap and toilet paper. Washing can usunlly be doi>8 within 24 hours in all countries. When you buy a parcel and order it sent to your room, give the num- ber of the chamber, and not your name. Fee the portier at Continental hotels ; he will be useful. Give one of your dining-room waiters something, but give to only one. Never mind the head waiter's sardonic frown. In France you will save money by taking your meals at the hours when the natives take theirs ; out of hours 70U pay special prices. By asking for "ice-

xxii A CHAPTER ON TRAVEL.

water," yoi\ can now get it almost everywiiere. In Middle Europe drink ordinary wines, an4 dilute them with water, except at evening. The vin ordinaire is pure and wholesome in all coun- tries. Examine your bills, and don't allow over- charges. Omnbiks from station is generally charged in bill. Baggage porter expects small fee when you go away. Insist on having your bill when you ask tor it. You will find English spoken in almost aii hotels. You can always post letters and generally send telegrams from your hotel, unless in some small country town. Telegraphy is cheap in nearly all European coun- tries. Before leaving America tell your friends to write to you, care of your bankers in London or Paris , if you keep your bankers advised ot your address you will never miss a mail. Reg ister your name at the London and Paris offices of your banker's; and you may thus find friends or acquaintances who happen to be travelling abroad. In Paris, you wall find the larger bankers well pro- vided with post-offices, reading-rooms, and informa- tion about travel. If you need a courier (but you really do not), ask your banker or landlord for the addi'ess of one. Couriers are expensive luxuries.

We think all necessary information about cabs will be found in the text of the volume. Diligences are to be avoided as much as possible. In some places they

CAUTIONS. xxiii

are, however, indispensable. On steamboats on lakes and streams you may usually take free about twice as much baggage as by rail. Always make your bar- gains beforehand tor private carriages.

A few Cautions as to small matters may not be out of place. Should you go shopping on ihe Con- tinent, especially in France, Belgium, Switzerland, or Italy, try to make up your mind from your in- spection of an article in the windows whether you want it or not. The window is really the shop ; everything is plainly marked, and if you go in and come out again without buying, the skopkeeper considers that you have made him waste his time, and does not conceal his disappointment from you. Should you take furnished apartments, be sure and inspect the inventory made of them before you move in. Do not violate any regulations, municipal or general, however trivial and useless they may seem, for the laws are rigidly enforced. Secure seats at the theatres at least 24 hours before you intend to go, otherwise you will be badly placed. After climb- ing a Swiss mountain pass, be careful not to take cold; imprudence in the mountains often ruins a whole summer. Wraps must be taken into galleries, churches, and palaces, especially in Italy, even in summer. In passnig from sunshine to shade, gather your garments about you, and avoid chills. Treat servants in France and other Latin countries and in Switzerland as you would in America, but in Great Britain and Grermany and Austria keep th^^m at a distance; they do not un- derstand democracy, and would impose upon you. If you go to a,poste restante (general delivery post-ol!ice), present your name plainly written or printed on a card. lu making pedestrian tours in out-of-the-way districts,

xxiy A CHAPTER ON TRAYEL

do not lose your temper if the local officials are a little curious about your movements. In case of sudden illness in France, Italy or Switzerland, call an American or English physician, if you can find one. Failing that, a local physician who ha,s had practice among foreigners is better than one who has not.

Language is not so great a barrier to communica- tion as is imagined. If you get into a corner of Europe where no tongue that you can speak is under- stood, use English ."just as if the people knew what it meant, and make signs. You will get on famously. The little list of plirases at the end of this volume may be found an aid to those who have some familiarity with those languages most spoken in Europe. On genera,l principles, however, it is better to use what little y^n know of a foreign language than to seek interpreters. You will be presumed to know more than yov express, and you will make better bargains.

Go to the United S^^tes Consul for information when you are really in d^ubt and need advice. Not even then, if he is a political appointee and not a practical man. In the latter case only is he likely to have that acquaintance v.ith the language, laws and customs of the place, whereby he ca.p 9id you? whi^e-- if he has an important olhce and attends to it, h* has little time for strangers ^bn^ come wixihoiii *s business reason for their call.

GOLFING-CYCLING. xxv

Golfing.

'ine opportunties for golf on the Continent have greatly increased during the past few years, many of the hotels in the resorts largely patronised by English and Americans having had links laid out. Golf clubs having more or less desirable courses have been established in the following places: — Belgium — Antwerp, Bruges, Brussels, Ostend, Vianden ; France, — Aix-les-Bains, Arcachon, Argeles, Beaulieu-sur- Mer, Biarritz, Boulogne, Cannes, Costebelle, Dieppe, Dinard, Gavarnie, Hyeres, Nice, Parame, Paris, Pau, St. -Jean de Luz, Sainte Marguerite (Pornichet Sta- tion); Germany — Baden-Baden, Berlin, Bremen, Dresden, Homburg, Wiesbaden; Oihraltar; Holland — Arnheira, Doom, Haarlem, Hague, Hilversum, Leeawarden; Italy — Conio, Florence, Rome, San Remo, Sorrento, Spezia, Varese; Portugal — Oporto; Russia — Moscow, St. Petersburg; Sweden — Gothen- burg; Switzerland — Maloga, St. Moritz, Samaden.

Cycling.

The chief inconveniences of a cycle tour on the Continent are those due to the customs regulations in the different countries. At nearly every frontier the tourist is obliged to pay the regular duty imposed upon wheels imported for sale, but on leaving the country this duty is refunded. The following is the deposit required in each country, the amount in each ease being reduced to its American equivalent : Austria, $10; the tourist must swear to a declaration that he intends to remain only temporarily in the country, and that his wheel is not for sale; on leav- ing the country the deposit will be refunded; Bel- gium, 12 per cent, ad valorem; if intending to leave the countiy by rail, the tourist must write in ad- vance to the custom-house otiicial at the frontiftr, en-

xxvi A CHAPTER ON TRAVEL.

closing receipt and stating on what train he will pass through; the money will then be refunded when the frontier is reached. Denmark, 10 per cent, ad valorem; special permit must be obtained if tourist intends to leave through another custom house; a lead seal must be attached to the wheel as a receipt. England, free. France, 25 cents per pound; a lead seal is attached to the wheel as a receipt, and the tourist may leave by any frontier. Germany, ivQQ for tourists ; in this country bicycles will not be taken on the express trains. Holland, free for tourists. Italy, $8. Luxembourg, 3 cents per poimd. Portugal, 27 per cent, ad valorem; a seal required as in France. Russia, $7.80; a seal and permit re- quired as in Denmark. Spain, 5c. per pound; and in addition the tourist must obtain a special pass good for six months, for which 20 cents is charged ; the frontier officials are sometimes exacting, and it may be wise to secure the services of a custom-house broker. Sweden and Norway, 25 and 30 kr. respect- ively ; if the tourist intends to enter the country through any but the principal custom houses he must obtain a permit from the Director General of Cus- toms, and he must leave the country by. the same route that he entered; his deposit will be forfeited if he remains over sixty days ; Switzerland, 6c. per lb. Any American wheelman intending to vour on the Continent, if ho is not already a member of the L. A. W., should join that organization, as it gives him many privileges. The governments of Italy, Belgium and Switzerland now permit touring mem- bers of the L. A. W. to pass their respective frontiers without making a deposit. There is also an alliance between the League and the Cyclists' Touring Club of Great Britain, whereby a member of one may be admitted to temporary membership in the other without ext^a fes^. The Touring Club de France

AUTOMOBILING XXvii

may also be joined by League members at slight ex- pense, and with membership in those two clubs one obtains road books free, reduction in rates at hotels, and many other advantages.

The wheel should be provided with a brake, a bell or gong, and a lantern. It must be boxed for the steamship very strongly and not merely crated; a bicycle trunk, though expensive, is advisable. There is a charge for freight on most lines. If the tourist has the precaution to take a second chain and extra nuts, together with a serviceable repair kit, he may be spared much vexation and loss of time and money.

Automobile Eegulations.

The steamship companies insist that automobiles be crated before being accepted for transportation to or from Europe. The expense of this is about $100, but the box can be stored with the steamship company or the forwarding company and used for 1 he return voy- age. The channel steamers between Great Britain and the Continent have every facility for carrying uncrated cars without risk. The motoring tourist should always have with him a passport, an official certificate of his ability as a driver, and a maker's certificate giving date of sale, value, weight, type of car, capacity, etc. It will be to his advantage in many ways to become a member of the Touring Club of France. The following is a synopsis of the custom house rules and police regulations in the most fre- quented countries of Europe:

France. — The duty is at the rate of 50 francs for each IQO kilogrammes, if the car weighs more than 125 kilogrammes (275 lbs.), and 120 francs if it weighs less than this. The amount must be deposited on entering the country, and will be refunded when leaving the country (within six months) on presenta-

xxviii A CHAPTER ON TRAVEL

tion of the deposit receipt at the frontier. The speed limit is thirty kilometres (about 19 miles) in the country, 20 kilometres (about 13 miles) in villages; in narrow roads or streets the car must not exceed the speed of a man walking. These rules are not strictly enforced if the car seems to be under com- plete control. At night a white and a green light must be displayed in front.

Germany. — The duty is 230 marks, which is sel- dom demanded if the driver has a passport and can prove that the car has been in his possession a rea- sonable time. The amount paid will be refunded when the car leaves the country. The regulations vary in different towns and parts of the empire; in many places certain streets are forbidden to automo- biles, and in one little principality at least the en- trance of motor cars into the capital is not allowed when the ruler is "in residence."

Holland. — The duty is 5 per cent, ad valorem, re- payable on leaving the country; it is seldom exacted unless the car is manifestly new. The speed limit is 30 kilometres (about 13 miles) in the country, 8 kil- ometres (5 miles) in villages, over bridges, down hill, at night, and in foggy weather. A permit must be obtained from the Secretary of Public Works and must be countersigned at the custom house; blank, permits may be had from the Netherlands Automo- bile Club, The Hague, on payment of 4.20 gulden (50 cts.). Every car must carry two lights and a horn or bell respectively visible and audible 350 feet.

Belgliam. — A duty of 12 per cent, ad valorem, re- payable at the frontier when leaving the country, is required. Lamps and horns are required, cars must proceed slowly in towns and when crossing bridges, and in all cases must be under control and must not exceed a reasonable speed.

Great Britain and Ireland. — There is no duty on automobiles. Lights and sound signals are re-

AUTOMOBILING Xxix

quired and a reasonable speed must not be exceeded. To avoid accidents the driver must observe the rule of the road and pass to the left instead of the right.

Switzerland.— The duty is 20 francs per loO kil- ogrammes, repayable when leaving the country. Each car must carry a white and a green light m front and a rec\ light behind, a good horn, and two brakes, each one capable of stopping the car within two metres (33 feet) on a decline or when riiuning at full legal speed. The speed must not exceed 30 kil- ometres (about 19 miles) in the country, 10 kilometres (6^ miles) in cities and towns or on mountain roads, and 6 kilometres (3f miles) on bridges, in narrow streets, and whenever warning signs demand it. The car must stop when meeting a horse that appears frightened or when a government stage-coach is met. There are a number of other regulations, some of them vexatious and unreasonable. Indeed, automo- biles are unpopular in Switzerland, and in case of accident, no matter where the blame lies, the motor driver is usually held accountable. A' permit is necessary unless the owner has ine from his own government and that government is one which recip- rocates in this respect with Switzerland.

Austria.— The duty is 130 kroner (about $26) for the car and 18 kr, ($3.50) for every 100 kilogrammes (220 lbs.) weight of the motor. This sum is refunded when the owner leaves Austrian territory.

Italy.— The duty varies from 200 lire ($38.60) for a car weighing up to 500 kilos (1,200 lbs.) to 600 lire (115.80) for one weighing over 1000 kilos (2,400 lbs.) The amount will be refunded on leaving the country within six months. The driver must obtain a permit within five days, either on the basis of reciprocity, if that exists with the country granting his original licence, or after proving to the authorities by actual test that he is a competent driver.

Russia. — There is a vexatious amount of red tape

XXX A CHAPTER ON TRAVEL

to unravel in order to drive a motor car into Russia. A special permit must be obtained from the Secretary of Finance, anr] one who gets the permit within a week of his applanation is to be congratulated. The application for the permit, which must be made on stamped paper (80 kopeks, about 40 cents), must state how long the driver expects to be in Russia, at what town the car will enter, and from what town it will leave the country. The duty paid will be re- funded some time or other, but usually not until some weeks after the car has left the country.

Spain. — The duty paid is refunded on leaving the country. The speed ^aws are not irksome.

Denmark. — No auty is required if the owner makes declaration that he is touring and intends to make only a temporary stay in the country.

Reimportation into tsie United States.— The regulations of the U. S. Treasury Department pro- vide that the owner of an automobile of foreign manufacture on which duties have been paid may, after its ideYitification and the issue of a certificate by customs otficers on his application, take it abroad for touring purposes, with the right of free entry on its return with him or within thirty days alter him, provided that no repairs, nnprovements, or additions were made to the automobile, except absolutely neces- sary repairs costing not more than 10 per cent, of ||! the original appraised value. Cai-s of American * ' manufacture will be admitted on their return free of duty, provided that they shall not have been ad- vanced in value or improved in condition and that all repairs made thereto were absolutely necessary and did not cost more than 10 per cent, of the original price of the car ; and provided further that it shall be shown that the accessories are those taken abroad under the certificate.

Customo Regulations

All persons on their arrival in the United States

I

CUSTOMS REGULATIONS xxxi

are required to make a declaration of dutiable articles obtained by them abroad. The declaration will be verified on the pier by careful examination of the contents of the packages.

The senior member of a family may include all the members .thereof in his or her declaration.

State the exa^ct number of pieces of baggage in which your effects are contained.

Give the cost or foreign value of each dutiable article.

As far as practicable, keep your original receipted bills for all purchases of any importance during your stay abroad.

When packing your baggage for your return trip it would be well to prepare a list of articles so pur- chased, with the prices paid for each.

If these articles are so placed in your trunks that you can easily find a^d exhibit them fc^' appraise- ment, much time and inconvenience will be saved.

Each person is entitled to bring in fifty cigars or tliree hundred cigarettes for his own use. All cigars and cigarettes in excess of this number and less than three thousand are liable to seizure, but in meritori- ous cases may be released by the payment of a fine equal to the duty and the internal revenue tax.

Duties will be assessed at the foreign market values at the time of exportation with due allowance for wear or depreciation. A failure to declare duti- able articles in your possession will render the same liable to seizure and confiscation and you to criminal prosecution.

In case passengers are dissatisfied with the values placed upon dutiable articles, they have the privilege to demand a re-examination, but application therefor should be immediately made to the deputy collector at the pier. If, for any reason, this is impracticable, the packages containing the articles should be left in %ustoms custody and application for re-appraisement ma.de to the collector at the custom house in writing

XXXii A CHAPTER ON TRAVEL

■within two days after the original appraisement. No request for re-appraisement can be entertained after the articles have been removed from customs custody.

Baggage intended for delivery at another port may l)e forwarded thereto upon application, without the assessment of duty at the poi't of arrival.

Any baggage or personal effects in transit through the United States to any foreign country may on application be forwarded to the port of departure. The officer taking your declaration will advise you on this point.

Representatives of various railroads and express companies will be found on the pier and will take charge of your baggage and forward it to destination if desired.

Government officers are forbidden by law to accept anything but currency in payment of duties, but if requested will retain baggage on the pier for twenty- four hours to enable the owner to secure the cur- rency.

It is unlawful for customs officers to receive any " tip" or gratuity, and to offer the same is a violation of law.

Passengers are requested promptly to report to the Secretary of the Treasury, the collector at the custom house or to the deputy collector at the pier any dis- courtesy or incivility on the part of customs officers.

A resident of the United States returning thereto is entitled to bring with him, free of duty, personal effects taken abroad by him as baggage, provided they have not been remodelled or improved abroad so as to increase their value, and, in addition thereto, articles purchased or otherwise obtained abroad, of a total value not exceeding $100. Such articles may be for the use of the person bringing them or for others, but not for sale.

CUSTOMS REGULATIONS xxxiii

(To prevent the use of the foregoing provision as a cloak for smuggling, customs officials are in- structed to inquire into the bona fides of the journey and the actual ownership of the goods. Either the presence of an unusual amount of any class of highly dutiable merchandise or frequent and hasty journeys is sufficient to raise the presumption of bad faith. Such cases will be subject to most careful scrutiny and prosecution.)

All articles obtained abroad, whether exempt from duty or otherwise, should be declared, and an allow- ance of $100 for articles obtained abroad will be made by the deputy collector upon the pier.

Non-residents of the United States are entitled to bring with them as baggage free of duty all wearing- apparel, articles of pei'sonal adornment, toilet articles and similar personal effects in actual use and neces- sary and appropriate for the wear and use of such persons and their present comfort and convenience^ not intended for other persons or for sale.

Non-residents for the purposes of customs admin- istration are divided into three classes:

First — Actual residents of other countries.

Second — Persons who have been abroad for the purpose of study, restoration of health, or for other specific objects, and have had a fixed foreign abode for one year or more.

Third — Persons who have been abroad for two years or more for any purpose whatever, and who have had during that time a fixed place of abode for one year or more.

Household effects of persons or families from for- eign countries will be admitted free of duty if actu- ally used abroad by them not less than one year, and not intended for any other person or for sale.

The law expressly forbids the importation into the United States of garments made in whole or in part

xxxiy A CHAPTER ON TRAVEL

of the skins of prohibited fur seals, and unless the owner is able to establish by competent evidence and to the satisfaction of the Collector either that the garments were purchased prior to December 29, 1897, or that the animals from which the skin was taken was captured elsewhere than in prohibited waters, entry will not be allowed.

Residents who desire to take sealskin garments abroad may have the same registered with the Col- lector.

THE COMPLETE POCKET-GUIDE TO EUROPE.

IRELAND.

THE majority of American visitors to Europe go first to Oreat Britain, leaving a tour tlirough the picturesque and interesting island of Ireland among the possibilities of the last days of their pil- grimage. Our own impression is that those who go abroad as early as May or June would do better to land at Qaeenstown, if their ships stop there, and make a brief trip through the Emerald Isle, and quitting it either via Belfast for Glasgow, or via Dublin and Kingstown, crossing the Irish Channel to Holyhead in 4 lirs., and going from Holyhead to Chester, Liverpool, and thence northward to the English Lake District, or to London, as best suits their humor. Thousands of persons return to the United States without having set foot in Ireland. They intended to go there ; but after their long season of travel on the Continent they get back to London somewhat wearied, as well as economically inclined, and the result is that they hasten to take ship for f home, seeing naught of Ireland but the bold lines of; its coast and the round towers which cap its highest cliffs.

^ QUEENSTOWN

Ireland is worth a visit of 3-5 days, and our ob-,' ject is to show the tourist how he may spend those| days to advantage in that country. The steamships of the Cunard and White Star lines call at Queens- town, coming from and going to New York, Boston and other ports. Tugboats speedily convey passengers with their baggage from Roches Point, M^here tlie steamers stop, up to the town proper; and the noble port witli its green water, the verdant hills crowned with handsome buildings and protected by fortifica- tions, and the pretty groves and forests, out of which white villas peep, form a picture doubly pleasing to the eye of the visitor, after he has for many days seen nothing but sea, sky, and the ship that brought him ovei.

Queenstowii {Queen" s Hotel) is on Great Island, which lies in tiie magnificent bay or arm of the sea into which the river Lee pours its waters. The town was formerly called the " Cove of Cork," and received its present name after Queen Victoria paid it a visit. It is built on the face of a hill sloping down to the shore; has a Cathohc cathedral and a fine Protestant church, and a trifle more than 10,000 inhab. Invalids are attracted to Queenstown by the extreme mildness of its climate, llev. Charles Wolfe, who wrote the famous lines on the buiial of Sir John Moore, died of consumi)tion here in 1823, and is buried on the island. Tlie immense harbor of Cork, large enough to afford shelter to the combined navies of Europe at once, in its basin 10 square M. in area, is well defended by forts on either side the cbaunei of enti"ance. On ISjnke Island is Fort Westmoreland commanding entrance to harbor. Hawlbowline Island contains Oi'dnance stores and an armory. Rocky Island is a powder magazine, with 6 huge chambers, holding 10^000 bar»^e-l'^ of gunpowder.

IRELAND 3

and quarried out of the solid rock. It was into Cork Harbor and Crossliaven Creek that Drake retreated when the Spanish fleet was hotly pursuing him. He succeeded in hiding his ships so efl^ectually at a spot known to this day as Drake s Tool, tliat the supersti- tious Spaniards attributed the disappearance to magic.

There are three routes from Queeustown to Cork: by rail all the way (is. 2d., 9d., or 6d.) ;. by steamer to Passage and thence by rail (fares same as above) ; or by steamer up the river direct to Patrick's Bridge. " It would be difficult," wrote Sir John Forbes, " to overpraise the beauty of the river from Cork to Quef^nstown, or the magnificent harbor or inland bay in which it terminates, more especially when these are seen under the influence of a bright sun and brilliant sky." At Monkstown, at a point where the river Lee widens into a lake, stands a castle, now in rums.

Cork {Imperial Hotel; Royal Victoria; Commercial ; and others), the "capital of tlie South," has a popula- tion of 80,000. It is situated on both banks of the river Lee, which is crossed by numerous bridges. The Irish name of Cork signifies " a swamp," and well de- scribes the location of the town. The Grand Parade, the South Mall, Great George's-St , Mardyke, and St. Patrick's-St ,011 which stands a statue nf Father Mathew, are the principal avenues. The Queen's College, a handsome quadrangular structure in- the Tudor-Gothio style, is situated on a small hill near the S. fork of the stream. St. Ann's Ch. is the most interesting edifice in Cork. It contains the '*' bells of Shaiidon," of which Father Prout sang so melodiously. This ch. was built iu 1722, and its curious steeple, three sides of which are of limestone, while the fourth is red, is 120 ft. high, and constructed of hewn stone from a Franciscan abbey <HFliere James II. had once heard mass, and from tbe

4 CORK. — BLARNEY CASTLE.

ruins of a castle which had been the official residence of the lords-president of Munster. The Ch. of tht Jloly Trinity, founded by Father Matliew, who begas his career as an apostle of temperance in Cork, is won thy a visit ; and so is tlie Cathedral of St. Fionn Bar, This saint founded a monastery on the site of a heathen temple in Cork in the 7th century. The invading Danes, 200 years later, surrounded the little town with walls. Cork had its charter as a city taken away at the close of the 15th century, because it had received Perkin Warbeck, the impostor king, with royal honors. The charter was restored in 1609. Cromwell's cruel- ties in Cork, in the War of the Protectorate, are still related by the inhabitants. William Penn, the founder of Pennsylvania, became a convert to Quakerism in Cork, where he heard the eloquent preaching of one Thomas Loe. Cork was surrendered to Henry II. in the 12th century by Dermot M'Carthy, Prince of Desmond ; but the English invaders were harassed for centuries by petty Irish chieftains, and the sentiment of independent Irish nationality seems even nowadays conspicuously manifest in the neighborhood. The love- ly Victoria Park of 140 acres may be seen on the way to Blarney Castle.

Blarney Castle may be reached from Cork by rail in 16 niin. But the best plan is to take a jaunting-cai (about 3s. there and back) by the road on .^e N. bank of the river. The distance is 5 M. Cormac M'Carthy built the massive donjon tower, 120 ft. high, and the lower portion, in the 15th century ; and the famous Blarney Stone, which bore the inscription Cormach MacCarthy Fortis Mi Fieri Fecit A. D. 1446, now illegible, was clasped by two iron bars to a projecting buttress at the top of the castle, at the N. angle, sev« »ral ft. below the level of the wall, so that the persoB

IRELAND. 5

vho wished to kiss it had to hold on to the bars, and project his body forward in most risky fashion. An. other stone, marked " 1703," stands within the towei in a place where it is quite accessible to kisses. " The Blarney Stone," says Black's Picturesque Tourist of Ireland, " had long been a byword among the Irish : it is difficult to conjecture why, unless the glib tongues of the natives of this locality were supposed to be not the ordinary gift of Nature. But it had not reached its full zenith of talismanic power until 1799, when Milliken wrote his well-known song of ' The Groves of Blarney.' A C-irious tradition attributes to the stone the power of endowing whoever kisses it with the sweet, persuasive, wheedling eloquence, so perceptible in the language of the Cork people, and which is usu- ally termed Blarney'" There is an odd story about Blarney Lake, a pretty sheet of water, \ M. from the castle. It is said that the Earl of Clancarty, who for- feited the property at the Revolution, sank all his fam-r ily plate in a certain part of this lake ; that three of thf M'Carthys inherit the secret of the place where th^ treasure is sunk, any one of whom, dying, communi cates it to another of the family, and thus perpetuates* the secret, which is never to be made public until a M'Carthy is again Lord of Blarney.

Other Excursions from Cork. — To Rostellan Castle and Cloyne, three times daily by steamer to Aghada. In Rostellan Castle is preserved an ancient sword said to have belonged to Brian Boroihine, the ai?-".estor of the O'Briens. At Cloyne there is a 14th century cathedral and a noted "round tower." — To TougJtal and the Blachwater. This excursion may be made 'u a single day by taking an early train from Cork tn Youghal (28 M.), ivhence a steamer up the beaut^iul Blackwater River to Cappoquin, above whicy

6 LAKES OF KILLARNEY

point the stream is not navigable. At Youghal (Hotel : Devonshire Arms) is the " Warden's House/' tlie residence of Sir Walter Raleigh in 1588-89. It was there that he entertained Spenser when the poet was preparing his "Faerie Queene" for publication. It was also in Youghal that the first potato was planted in Ireland, by Raleigh. From Cappoquin the traveller may take the mail (jaunting-car) to Lismore, one of the most ancient towns in Ireland, twice daily (Sundays excepted). Castle of tlie Duke of Devonshire, on the site of the old University ; visitors admitted. From Lismore the tourist can go by rail to Fermoy in 45 min. ; from Fermoy to Mallow, 46 rain. ; and from Mallow he may return to Cork, reaching there in the evening, or may go to Killarney.

Killarney. The Lakes, and Lake Region.

The traveller may go from Cork to Killarney by rail, via Mallow Junction, in about 3 hrs.,68f M. (lls.6d., 8s. 4d., 5s.). This is the shortest, but the least inter- esting route. For those pressed for time, it is the best. By leaving Cork late in the afternoon one may reach Killarney in time to get a good night's rest, and, -starting early on the following morning, may visit the most attractive points in the region, getting back to Mallow Junction in time to take a night train for Dub- lin. But those who are making a more leisurely tour will find themselves well repaid for taking either of the two routes via GlengarifiE. One of these leads from Cork by rail through Bandon to Dunraanway, and thence by coach to Gleng,3i.YiS{Roche's Hotel; Eccles'), thence to Kenmare (Lansdowne Arms), and so on through a barren and wild, but picturesque country, across the mts., and down to Killarney. The most

IRELAND. 7

extensive view of Glengariff, a ravine about 3 M. long, and rich with yew, holly, and arbutus, is to be had from Old Berehaven road, near Cromwell's Bridge. The beautiful grounds around Glengariff Castle are worth a visit. From Glengariff the journey may be extended to Bantry Bay, either by land or water. The latter way is preferable, affording an excellent view of the bold coast scenery. But we would recommend none of these ex- cursions to the seaside, unless the weather is entirely favorable. Nothing is drearier than an Irish wet day by the sea. The route from Cork to Macroom by rail, 24 M., and thence by jaunting-car to Glengariff, Ken- mare, and Kiilarney, is highly spoken of by travellers who have recently taken it. Both these above-mentioned ways require two days, and a trip to Bantry Bay will take another half-day. In summer a coach runs from Cork to Kiilarney, in one day, but does not pass through the most interesting places. (Fare by this coach, 19s.) Macroom is the place where the Irish Bards held their meetings, and a fine ivy-mantled castle may be seen there. In the vicinity of Kenmare there are many lovely views ; and the river or bay of Kenmare is by some considered the most beautiful on the Irish coast. Kiilarney (^Royal Victoria Hotel ; Railway ; Lake; /?i«z>/«^^6yi), population 5,000, lies about l^M. from the N. E. margin of Lough Leane, or the Lower Lake. It possesses a cathedral, designed by Pugin, and a nunnery, with a school attached, where 400 girls are educated. The hotels generally command very good views of the lakes and the mts. The town is renowned for its beggars ; and for the artifice of the peasantry in extorting sixpences from travellers, in return for some trifling and entirely superfluous service. Two days are required properly to see the lakes, the Gap of Dunloe, Muckross ^Lbbey, and the Tore Cascade ^

6 LAKES OF KILLAKNEY.

but if only one day can be given, the best plan is to engage a pony and ride from Killarney througli the Gap of Dunloe to the head of the Upper Lake, having previously ordered a boat to be in readmess at Lord ferandon's Cottage on that lake. It is 15 M. from Kil- larney to this cottage, and many may prefer to walk rather than ride a stumbling horse, especially as they can rest in the boat while rowed down the lakes after- wards. Arrangements for horses, boats, etc., can usu. ally be made at the hotels. The tariff is established by local law, and there is no occasion to give more.

The first object of interest on the road from Killar. ney to the Gap of Dunloe is a huge county lunatic asylum, and the next is the old ruin of Aghadoe, 2:^ M. from the town. All that remains of the once cele- brated castle is a fragment of a tower. Near by is a church, consisting of two distinct chapels of unequal antiquity, lying E. and W. of each other. The W. chapel is iu the Romanesque style, and was under the patronage of St. Finian. The E. chapel dates from 1158, is in the Pointed style, and was dedicated to the Holy Trinity. There are a few fine country-houses on the road beyond Aghadoe. Lake View House, on the 1., is the residence of a brother of the great O'Con- nell ; Beaufort House is attractive ; and Dunloe Castle, also on the 1., is celebrated as having been one of the residences of the powerful O'Sullivan Mor. The pres- ent proprietor has restored the castle. About 2 M. from the entrance to the Gap is the Cave of Dunloe (in a field not far from the road). This cavern was opened in 1838 by some laborers digging a ditch, and was found to be roofed with impost stones, in the angles of which were inscriptions in the ancient Ogham charac- ter, supposed to have been used by the Druids before the introduction of Christianity into Ireland- This

IRELAND. 9

venerable storehouse of Irish history will have but small interest for the tourist, and he will do well to press on to the Gap. On his way thither he will pass the cabin in which the fair "Kate Kearney " once re- sided, and will doubtless be invited by one of her descendants to exchange sixpence or a shilling for a mysterious drink of goats' milk and whiskey.

Of the Gap of Dunloe au Irish writer has said : *' It appears as if the vast range of mts., of which this most siagular ravine is composed, were cleft in twain by a uiighty sword : one is not surprised at its appear- ance having given rise to such a tradition." It is a narrow defile 4 M. long, between the range of hills called " Macgillicuddy's Reeks " and the Purple Mt., a shoulder of the Tomies. The rapid stream called the Loe traverses the wliole length of the glen, ex- panding at various places into five lakes known as the Cummeen Thomeen. The road is a mere bridle, path, sometimes on the very edge of precipices. The peasantry say that it was at the Black Lough, one of the small lakes, that St. Patrick banished the last snake from Ireland. Many travellers who are disappointed in the Gap of Dunloe find the view, just after leaving it, up what is called the Black Valley, extremely im- pressive. The Gap is bordered by rocky peaks vary- ing from 2,000 to 3,4?00 ft. in height ; but the vast and desolate amphitheatre of the Black Valley, with its rugged masses of darkened rock, its circular basins of still water filled with dissolved peaty matter, and its wild and mysterious recesses, gives an impression of grandeur and wonder which its neighbor ravine fails to produce. The view down the valley in a warm, hazy day is very striking. The water in the lakes throws back the light which it receives by reflection frorn tha sky, and thus seems to be lighted from below.

10 ijAkes of killarney.

At numerous points in the Gap and on tlie Lake? there are superb echoes, and there is no lack of peaS' ants to awaken them, and to claim a fee for having done so. A narrow and rugged footpath leads down from tlie head of the Gap to Lord Brandon's Cottagey where the tourist who has ordered a boat before leav« ing Killarney will find it waiting for him. It is wel^ to have lunch provided in the boat, so that one can take it as he is rov/ed down towards the Middle anc| Lower Lakes. Erom Lord Brandon's Cottage one may ascend Purple Mt. (2,739 ft. high), and from the summit get a fine view of the Upper and Middle Lakes and a long stretch of the sea-coast beyond; but this would require half a day at least.

The Lakes. — From the cottage, across the Upper Lake, 2^ M., the boatmen row so as to show the tourist, the numerous pretty islands. The first of these is McCarthy s ; the second, Arbutus Island, completely covered with the beautiful plant whose name it bears. "The islands in the lakes of Cumberland," says the author of Black's Picturesque Tourist, "are either grassy holms, with sometimes a piece of yellow whin to catch the eye, or perhaps a solitary tree or shrub, or, if larger, such as St. Herbert's and Lord's Isle on Derwentwater, bearing shady groves of ash and plane, mixed with every other variety of forest trees. The islands on the Killarney Lakes have a totally different aspect, produced entirely by the presence of the arbutus (Arbutus unedo'). Even in winter the leaves are of a rich glossy green, and so clustered at the terminations of the branches that the waxen, flesh-like flowers, which hang in graceful racemes, ot* the rich crimson, straw- berry-like fruit, seem cradled in a nest of verdure.'* The Upper Lake is thought by most peopie to be the finest of the three. On the S^ lie the Derrycunihy mt

ILELAND. 11

ranges, and on the 1. the high " Reeks." The Long Range is a river, rather 3 than 2 M. in length, connect- ing the Upper with the Middle Lake. Tilings to note here : Golmatis Ei/e ; The Man of War ; The Four Friends, a group of islets ; The Eagle's Nest, a cliff which towers 700 ft. above the river (the echoes heard from this point are remarkably fine) ; Old Weir Bridge^ an ancient structure, under which the water rushes swiftly. The small boat is carried through at greajr speed, and floats^ into a still pool called the Meeti]i§ of Waters, near Dinish Island, and then into the Middle, which is also called Muckross, or Tore Lake. On Dinish Island there is a cottage where dinner may be had, if previously ordered from the hotel in Kil- larney in the morning. Tore Cascade can be visited from this point ; but it will be better to take this iu conjunction with the visit to Muckross Abbey, a little fartlier on. Passing under Brlckeen Bridge, the boat enters Lough Leaae, or the Lower Lake. The area of this is about 5,000 acres ; its greatest length 5 M., breadth 3 M. There are thirty islands, the principal one of which, the Ross, is the location of the last stronghold in Munster that surrendered to the Parlia- mentary army. The castle was built in the I4tli cen- tury, by one of the O'Donoghues. The island of Innls- fallen, midway in the lake, is celebrated in history and fiction ; and that keen observer, Arthur Young, said of it that it was " the most beautifm in the king's do- minions, and perhaps in Europe." The ruins of the noted abbey are pointed out. The " Annals of Innis- f alien," a kind of universal history down to the time of St. Patrick, were written in this abbey about 600 years ago. The original copy of this curious work is now preserved in the Bodleian Library. In 1180 the abbey, mto which all the treasures di the adjacent country

12 MUCKROSS ABBEY.

had been gathered for safe keeping, was plundered by Mildwin, son of Daniel O'Donoghue. The boatmen will tell the traveller quite as much as he will care to hear about the past of " sweet Innisfallen." The part of the Lower Lake first entered is called Glena Bay. From the shore near Rabbit Island it is but a short walk to 0^ Sullivan s Cascade.

Those who wish to visit Muckross Abbey on the same day as the Gap and Lakes, should arrange with their boatmen to land them at the point of the Lower Lake nearest to it. From the shore through the handsome estate of Mr. Herbert to the abbey is but a short walk. The noted ruins are those of a ch. and abbey, founded in 1440, partly restored in 1602, and still in decent preservation. In the ch. are many ancient tombs ; among them, those of the O'Sullivans, McCarthys, and O'Donoghue Mor. The arms of a gigantic yew-tree support the crumbhng wall of a beautiful cloister. The trunk of the yew is 13 ft, in circumference. Tees are not exacted here ; but it is customary to give som'ething. Muckross Abbey Man- sion is a fine example of the Elizabethan style of archi- tecture. Passing through Mr. Herbert's grounds, the nsitor is admitted at a small wicket (fee, 6d.) to the enclosure witliin which is the Tore Cascade. Climb up above the fall, which is 60-70 ft. high, and look down upon it and, out over the lakes. Yisitors may, if they wish, drive or walk through the grounds of the Earl of Kenmare to Ross Island and Castle. The ^land is connected with the mainland by a dike.

^om Muckross to Killarney the distance is about ^f M. The entire round trip is not very fatiguing. We recommend the tourist to ride the first II M. to the Gap ; walk 4 M. through the Gap to Lord Bran- ion's Cottage i ^en the 13 M. across the lakes to

IRELAND. 13

Muokross and the 3| M. into Killarney can be done easily before dark.

Other Excursions froni Killarney. — Ascent of Mount 3fangerton (2,756 ft.). On the way one «omes to the "Devil's Punch Bowl," a mountain tarn 2,206 ft. above the sea level. It occupies a basin 28 acres in extent. Charles James Fox swam around it in 1772. Ascent of the Reeks : interesting, but some- what difficult. Journey to Valentia: it is worth a day's ride on a Jaunting-car to see the mighty waves beating against the rocky cliffs of the Atlantic coast. The train from

Killarney to Dublin

(time, 7 hrs.; fares, 34, 25, or 16s.) reaches the main line at Mallow Junction. Near Mallow are the ruins of Kilcolman Castle, where Edmund Spenser wrote the "Faerie Queene." He obtained, in 1586, a grant of land from forfeited estates of the Earl of Desmond, on condition that he should inhabit the country. In 1597 his castle was attacked by the native Irish, to whom he had rendered himself obnoxious, and his in- fant child perished in the flames which destroyed his home. He fled to London, and died of a broken heart. At Limerick Junction main line from Dublin to Cork is intersected by the Waterford and Limerick line.

Limerick {Royal Hotel; Q-eorge; Olentwortli), on the Shannon, "the noblest of Irish rivers," deserves a visit, which can be made in a day, including the re- turn to the line to Dublin. Limerick has about 40,000 inhab., and contains a venerable cathedral transformed into a Protestant church, and a noble castle built in King John's time.

Waterford {Adelphi; Imperial) merits a visit, but is perhaps too far off the line of the vacation

14 WATEEFORD. — CASHEL. — DUBLIN.

tourist. It is a handsome town of 23^000 inhab., on the Suir; and was tlie scene of many terrible fights between the Irisli and tlie Danes, Between Limericli Junction and Dubhn there are many places of histori- cal importance. From 0001(1' s- Cross Station it is but 5 M. across country to tlie Rock of Cashel, which rises 300 ft. above the plain. Gasliel was the residencfe of tlie Kings of Munster ; and there Henry II. received the homage of Donald, King of Limerick, in ]172. Edward the Bruce also held a parliament there. Near Thurles are the ruins of Holy-Cross Abbey, Just beyond Portaiiington the river Barrow is crossed on an iron viaduct 500 ft. long. Kildare, " the city re- nowned for saints," is 30 M. from Dublin. It pos- sesses the ruins of a cathedral ; and the Chapel of St. Brigid, called the "Tire House" because ^ is the sup- posed location of the fire which nuns kept burning night and day for a thousand years " for the benefit of poor strangers," is still shown. The " Ourragh," an ancient race-course, and now used as a military encampment and practice ground for soldiers, is just beyond Kil- dare. Sham fights are sometimes given there in the summer months. Near Hazelhatch station is Celbridge Abbey, once the residence of Swift's " Vanessa;"

Dublin and Vicinity.

Two days can be spent to advantage in visiting Dub- lin, provided the weather be fair. May, June, and August are excellent months for the visit. But the hurried tourist can manage to secure a tolerable idea of the Irish capital by a ride of 3-4 hrs. on a jaunting-car, or by half a day's leisurely walk. Dublin {Shelbourne Hotel: Gresham, good but rather dear; Morrison's t Metropole ; Imperial; Earopean ; Abbey ; Royal Com"

IRELAND. 15

mercial; Edinburgh, temperance) is a city of 420,000 inhab., on the river LifFej, which divides it into two nearly equal parts, and, shortly below the town, widens into a fine bay, on one side of which rises the Hill of Howtli, and on the other Killiney Hill, near Kingstown. Those who do not dread sudden showers should engage an open car by the hr. (Is. 4d. for first hr., and 6d. for each additional \ hr.), and drive to the Bank of Ireland, Trinity College, Dublin Castle, Christ's Church Cathe- dral, St. Patrick's Cathedral, the General Post-Office, Nelson's Monument, the Custom House, the Four Courts, and finally to Phcenix Park. This will enable one to judge pretty well of the main exterior attrac- tions. The shops in Dublin are quite as fine as those of London. The fine mall of Sackville-St., with its cut- granite Doric column to Nelson, 121 ft. high, is impos- ing, from Carlisle Bridge. The LifTey is navigable to this bridge ; but no large vessels come above the

Custom House, the finest building in the city. It is a handsome quadrangular structure, the principal front of which faces the river. Notice the allegorical compo- sition in the central portico. It represents Britannia and Hibernia in a marine shell, a group of merchant- men approaching, and Neptune driving away famine and despair. The dome is 120 ft. high, and bears on its summit a statue of Hope. From Nelso^i'" Monument, a good view of the city and suburbs may be obtained. Pee for ascent, 6d. The statue of the hero is the work of a native sculptor, Thomas Kirk ; and the sum of ^6,856, which the memorial cost, was raised by subscription among Nelson's Irish admirers. The General Post- Office has a majestic Ionic portico, surmounted by figures of Hibernia, Mercury, and Fidelity.

The Four Courts, on King's Inn Quay, is the name of a handsome building, in which are the Courts

16 DUBLIN

of Queen's Bench, Chancery, Exchequer and Common Pleas. It was begun on the site of an old Dominican monastery in 1776, and was completed just at the time of the union of the two nations. Cost about ,£200,000. The fapade on the river is 450 ft. loug. The great cir-^ cular hall in the centre is lighted by jets of gaSj which issue from a torcli borne in the hands of a giganlic figure of Truth. Ncv/ buildings for the accommodation of the Land Courts have recently been erected near by.

Phoenix Park contains 1,750 acres, fairly M^ell laid out. Interestiug reviews of troops are sometimes held there. Monuments %7i the Park. — The Wellington Tes- timonial, erected in 1817, at a cost of £20,000, by the Iron Duke^s fellow- townsmen of Dublm. This quadrangular, truncated obelisk of Wicklow granite has sunken panels on each side of its pedestal, contain- ing relievos in metal, three representing military pieces and the fourth containing the laurel-crowned head of the hero himself. The battles in which the Duke took part are inscribed here, and the bas-reliefs are made from captured cannon. — The Carlisle Memorial Statue, by Foley, in commemoration of Lord Carlisle's 8 years of vice-regency. On the r., near the entrance of the park, is the Military Hospital, and a little farther on the Constabulary Barracks. Within the park limits the Lord-Lieutenaut has a summer residence. Zoological Garden (admission, Is. ; on Sun., 2d.), not far away.

On the S. side of the river Liffey, and passmg from Carlisle Bridge, through Westmoreland-Si, at the E. side of which there is a statue of Tom Moore, one comes to the Bank of Ireland, in College Green. This was once used as the Parliament House. It was eom- pleticd in 1787, at a cost of £95,000, but was purchased m 1802 by the company of the Bank of Ireland for £40,000 and an annual rental of £240. The entrance

IRELAND. 17

to the lormer House of Lords was by a portico on the E. side. The House of Lords (visitors admitted) re- mains unaltered, except that a statue of George III. occupies the site of the throue. Old tapestries, rep- resenting the '' Siege of Derry " and " King William Crossing the Boyne," are worthy of notice, as is also the mantel-piece of Kilkenny marble. Directly oppo- site the bank is Trhiity College ; and on either side of the entrance to it are the famous Statues of Goldsmith and Burke, by Foley. Trinity was founded in Pope John XXII.'s time, and was closed in Henry VIIL's reign, but opened again by Elizabeth, who erected it into a corporation. Li 1627 a new code of laws was framed for it. Tlie civil wars of the Protectorate brought its fortunes to a low ebb ; but James I, and Charles IL endowed it liberally. The institution, which is open t(* all creeds, usually assembles about 1,400 students, and has educated some of the most renowned of modern wits. The Museum contains Brian Boroilime's harp and the «harter-horn of King O'Kavanagh ; the noble dining- hall is decorated with portraits of Grattan, Lord Avon- more, Chief Justice Downs, Flood, Lord Kilwarden, Prince I'rederick, father of George III., and Lord Cairns. Hewitson's fine monument to Provost Bald- win, in the building on the r. of the first courtyard, should be seen. The library contains nearly 300,000 volumes, and in the E. end is a very valuable collection known as the "Fagel Library." Note the Geological- Museum and Lecture Rooms, in College Park. On College Green there is an equestrian statue in lead of William III., erected in 1701 ; and a statue of Grattan. Dublin Castle requires but slight notice. Nearly all trace of its original design is now lost. The Vice- regal Chapel and Apartments, St. Patrick's HaU, the Portrait Chamber, and the Private Drawing Uoom ar9

18 DUBLIN.

shown i3y ine attendants for small gratuities, except during " the season." The stained-glass windows of the chapel contain the arras of all the Lord-Lieutenants, Good music in this chapel Sunday forenoons. Band plays in the courtyard mornings.

St. Patrick's Cathedral occupies the site of a reli- gious edifice built by St. Patrick himself, near the well in wliich he baptized his converts. The present build- ing was begun' by Archbishop Comyn in 1190, and restored and much improved, after the destruction of a portion of it by fire, under the care of Archbishop Minot, in 1370. Monuments worth notice inside : one to Boyle, Earl of Cork ; and one to tiie Duke of Schomberg, with an epitaph by Swift, who was long Dean of the cathedral. Two marble slabs mark the resting-places of Swift and his " Stella " (Mrs. Hester Johnson). Sir B. L. Guinness, the brewer, had the cathedral repaired and restored in 1860-63, at a cost of £140,000. The Lady Chapel .wd>.^ used by George IV. as Chapter House for the Knights of St. Patrick,

Christ's Church Cathedral is of ancient founda- tion; but the present structure is comparatively modem. It was first erected in 1038, and enlarged in later days by Strongbow and Pitzstephen, and still later by Bay- mond-le-Gros. It was in Christ Church that the lit- urgy was first read in Ireland in the English tongue. Note Earl Strongbow's monumental tomb. The local guides will tell you the various conflicting reports con- cerning its authenticity. This edifice, like St. Patrick's, owes its restoration to a vender of strong drink, who expended £200,000 on it. Stephen's Green is a hand- some square surrounded with fine mansions. On the W. side is the Royal College of Surgeons, erected in 1806-25. Museum: good collection. E. side: Royal College of Science. In centre of Green, a statue of

George II., by Yan Nast. S. side : the Catholic Uni- versity, the palace of the Archbishop of Dublin, and the Slielbourne Hotel. On Earlsfort Terrace is the pal- ace ill which the Dublin Exhibition of 1872 was held. It was purchased by Sir Arthur and E. C. Guinness, and devoted to the public benefit. It contains one concert hall capable of seating 3,000 persons.

Other Interesting Sights in Dublin. — The Roj/al Hibernian Academy, erected in 182i for the promotion of the fine arts (exhibition opens in February ; closes in July). The National Gallery, with a statue of Dargau in front on the N. side of Leinster Lawn. Merrion- Bow and Merrion-St. : the house in which Wellington was born in 1769 ; and at 30 Merrion- Square, the mansion where Daniel O'Connell resided for some years. Birthplace of Tom Moore, 12 Aungier-St. Royal Dublin Society, and King's and Queen's College of Physicians, in Kildare-St. The City Hall, with Hagan's statue of O'Connell inside. The Corn Ex- change, the meetiug-place of the National Council in 1832, and of the Repeal Association later on. Con- ciliation Hall, now a corn store, but the scene of many of O'Conuell's triumphs. Theatre Royal, Hawkins-St. The Poplin Manufactories : Dublin poplins a.re famous ; and the industry is rapidlv reviving.

Excursions from Dublin. — ■ To Glasn^vin Cem- etery, where are graves and line monuments of O'Con- nell, Steele, and Curran, 2 M. from the city. Botanic Gardens, near by. — Dublin to Howth : Several trains d^ily. Distance, 9 M. The peninsular Hill of Howth is the first landmark sighted on approaching Dublin from the sea. The route leads past Clontarf the seene of Brian Boroihme's last victory over the Danes, to Howth, a pleasant village on the hill. From the har- bor an excursion in boat may be made to the island of

20 DROOHEDA. — BRAY.

"Ireland's lEye." Boatman's fee, 2s. The Abbey of Howtli is pleasantly located on a steep overhanging the ocean. On the Hill of Howth stands an ancient Cromlech, a huge oblong stone, about 14x12, supported on numerous others. It is supposed to be a portioi( of a sepulchral monument to a departed chief. — ■ Malahide {Royal Hotel), 9 M. from Dublin, has a notable castle and abbey. The altar-tomb in the ruined abbey is a memorial of the sad history of the lady who in one day was " maid, wife, and widow,"

— the daughter of Lord Plunkett. — Drogheda (Jm- perial Hotel), 1|- hrs. by rail from Dublin. This was the first place attacked by Cromwell in 1649, and was carried by assault, led by the Protector himself. Drogheda was also the scene of the " Battle of the Boyne," fought, July 1, 1690, between the Prince of Orange and his father-in-law, James II. An obelisk 150 ft. high marks the spot where William began the attack and where Schomberg fell. Prom Drogheda, Tara and Kells may be visited.

From Dublin to Braj/ and the Wicklow Mts. is a charming excursion. Bray, 12 M. from Dublin {Ma- rine Hotel ; International), beautifully situated; head- quarters for trips to the Dargle (car, 2s.), to the Waterfall (car, 4s.), to the Glen of the Downs (car, 3s. 6d.), to Greystones (car, 4s. 6d.). Prom Bray to the Devil's Glen, the Seven Churches, and the Vale of Avoca, where "tlie bright waters meet," is a prof- itable journey. Go by rail from Bray to Rathnew Stat., from Rathnew by car to Devil's Glen, from Devil's Glen by car to the " Meeting of the Waters,'* in all about 38 M., and return by rail to Bray, 28 M.

— From Bray to Wicklow, along the coast by rail, — • desirable journey in bright weather. The Wicklow Mt. section is rich in quiet beauty ; the rly. fares along

IRELAND 21

the coast are moderate, and car-dp vers must be held to the tariff. Purchase one of tlie excellent local guides, for descriptions of the scenery.

If the tourist decides to go to Wales and England via Dubliu and Holyhead, he can go to Holyhead via the North Wall route for 8s. or 4s., or via Kings- town for 12s. or 8s. We think most American tour- ists prefer the latter route. By rail from Dublin to Kingstown, 6 M.; thence across the Irish Channel, 66 M., 4 Krs. There are two through services to London daily, — one leaving Dublin at 6.45, evening ; the other at 6.45, morning. Tourists who wish to make the jour- ney by day would better go to Kingstown in the even- ing, and sleep on the boat which is to start next morjiing. This will cost 2s. extra. Then they can breakfast at their leisure, — if the Irish Channel leaves thein any leisure.

Kingstown {Royal Marine Hotel ; Anglesea Arms) is so called because George IV. landed there on a visit to Ireland. An obelisi: commemorates the royal land- ing. The refuge harbor embraces an area of 250 acres. Before the present admirable system of "Irish Lights" was completed, many serious accidents to shipping oc- curred near Kingstown.

We give a few fares from various points in Ireland to the starting-points in England via Kingstown, as tourists' plans vary widely. Fare from Queenstown direct to Liverpool, Birkenhead, or Chester, 48s., 35s. 6d ; from Queenstown to London direct, 69s. 6d., 52s; from Dublin to London direct, 60s., 45s; from Dublin to Liverpool, Chester, or Birkenhead, 30s., 22s. 6d.; trom Dublin to Manchester, 33s. 6d., 25s. The fares to all these places via the North Wall route to Holyhead from Dublin are considerably lower, — from Queenstown to Chester, via North Wall, 38s.,

22 MAYNOOTH. — AUBURN.

28s.; from Dublin to Chester or Liverpool, via Nortl Wall, 20s., 15S.1 _

If the weather is fine, some interesting views on the Irish and Welsh coasts may be had during the crossing to Holyhead. The mail packets, Ulster, Munsfer, Leinster, and ComiaugM^ are remarkably strong, swift, and spacious.

From Dublin to Galway.

This route takes one from the E. to the " wild west coast," in 5^ hrs. (fares, 23s. 8d., 19s. 8d., lis. lOd.); distance, 126^ M. Glasnevin, where Addison, Swift, Tickell, Sheridan, and other celebrities resided ; and Maynooth, M'here there is a castle erected in 1426 by the Earl of Kildare, and the Royal College of St. Pat- rick,— are interesting. At Mullingar are the remains of an Augustine priory. AtJilone is an important mili- tary station. Not far from here the Shannon is crossed by a magnificent bridge. Just beyond Woodlawn, the Connemara Mts. become visible to the r. Athenry is an ancient town, with ruined castellated gates, walls, and religious establishments. At Oranmore a view of Galway Bay and the xslands of Arran may be obtained. Erom Athlone a car may be taken to Auburn, 8 M. (fare, 6d. per M.). Auburn is "The Deserted Village " of Goldsmith, audits real name is Lishoy; but since the famous Oliver gave it the name of Auburn, it has always retained it. The most interesting relic in the village is

1 The summer tom-ist in Ireland will find it to his advan- tage to purchase the monthly time-tables (price, 2d.) of the London and Northwestern, and Midland Rlys. These ex. cellent books contain a great variety of information about circular tours in Ireland, in connection with the above-men- lioued lines.

IRELAND. 23

khe ruined parsonage, where tbe Rev. Charles Goldsmith, Uie original of Dr. Primrose in the " Vicar of Wake- deld," struggled for the maintenance of his large family. Galway {Railway Hotel, at the station ; Royal) Is a quaint old town, ratlier Spanish in appearance, with wide gatewa^^s, broad stairs, and many other evidences of the predominance of Spanish ideas in former times. For a long period during and after the 14tli century, ex- tensive t'-ade was carried on between Spain and Galway, and Irish uierchants made frequent and protracted visits to Spain. Some of the residences of the mer- chant princes of old days are now tenement houses, occu- pied by the very poorest and lowest class. Queen's College is a handsome Gothic structure, built of gray limestone. Galway Bay is the finest in Ireland ; and tlie distance to St. Johns, Newfoundland, is 1,636 M. The "Western Highlands of Connemara, and the County Clare, including the region rendered famous by the troubles of landlords and tenants in the last few years, abound in fine scenery. The road from Galway to Clifden and Westport, 88 M. (car fares about i4s. 6d.), passes tlirough the most at- tractive part of the region. "Westport {Ra.ilioay Hotel; Connemara) is a pretty town ; and the domain of the Marquis of Sligo should be visited. See Clare Island, the ancient residence of Grace O'Malley.

Dublin to Belfast, Portrush, The Giant's Causeway, etc.

In leaving Dublin for this excursion, the trareller must consider whether he intends to return to Dublin and cross to England via Kingstown and Holyhead, or to cross from Belfast to Glasgow or Liverpool or rieetwood. If he means to come back to Dublin, let him

24 GIANT'S CAUSEWAY.

proceed thence directly to Portrush, which is the nearest station to The Giant's Causeway, Dunluce Castle, etc. The fare to Portrush (180 M.) is 32s., 23s. 8d., 14s. 9d. The route is by Malahide; The SJierries, where Saint Patrick is said to have taken shelter when he was pursued by the Druids ; Bal- triggan, famous for its stocking factories; Drog- heda; Dundalk, where Edward Bruce was crowned King of Ireland; Portadown Junction; Lurgan, a flourishing town engaged in linen manufactories; Belfast; Antrim, not far from Lough Neagh; and Coleraine, long noted for the fineness of its linens.

Portrush {Northern Counties Railway; Osborne's; LeeJc's; Portrush) is a pleasant watering-place. The Causeway may be reached by the electric tramway passing through Bushmills, or by jaunting-car. On the way the tourist passes Dunluce Castle, unques- tionably one of the most picturesque ruins in Europe. It is 3 M. from Portrush, on an insulated rock about 100 feet above the sea. The surface of the rock is entirely covered by the ruins of what must have been an impregnable stronghold. A single wall, not more than 18 inches broad, connects the castle with the mainland. Sea view very fine here. Fee, 6d. to Is., according to size of party. " The White Rocks," in which there are many fantastic caverns, are not far from Dunluce.

The Giant's Causeway. — On arriving engage guide at the Causeway Hotel. The basaltic rocks are abundant along the coast here,but the most interesting formations occur between Portcoon Cave, on the W., and Dunseverick C&stle, on the E. If the tourist has time, he should take the circuit first in a boat, and then visit the more important of the curiosities by land. See the Causeways. Little, Middle, and Great ; the Giant's Gateway ; Giant's Organ ; Chimney Tops; t^^e

IRELAND. 25

Priest and his Flock ; the Pleaskin ; and the Hen and Chickens. There is a route from the Giant's Cause- way to Belfast by the coast road, recommended only to those in no hurry. A whole day must be given to the trip from Portrush to the Causeway and return.

Londonderry {Jury^s Hotel; Imperial; Commer- cial; City ; Northern) is on the river Foyle. Me- morials of the historic "Siege of Derry" are numer- ous. Ascend the tower of the Cathedral. The old walls of the town are still preserved as a promenade. From Londonderry to Portrush it is 2 hrs. by rail (7s. 6d., 5s. Od., os. 8d) ; from Portrush to Belfast it is 3 to 4 hrs. (12s., 8s., 5s, 4d.).

Belfast {Imperial; Prince of Wales; Royal) will remind American visitors of some of our own thriv- ing manufacturmg towns; and the contrast between its smartness and vivacity and the dulness and languor of cities in the South of Ireland will be remarked at once. In 40 years the population has increased from 87,000 to 260,000. Two-thirds of the inhabitants are Protestants. The town stands on the property of the Marquis of Donegal; and it is said that hut for long leases granted by the former proprietor, the income of that nobleman from the town ahme would amount to £300,000. Belfast is situated on the Lagan, near the elongated bay known as Belfast Lough. The port is 130 M. from Glasgow, and 156 M. from Liverpool. The Irish name of the town signifies "the mouth of the ford." The new docks are very fine. On the Queen's Island is an iron shipbuilding yard, employing nearly 2,000 hands. The White Star steamships are built there. Buildings to notice : Presbyterian Ch., Rose- niary-St. ; Payed Academical Institution and Crovern- ment School of Art; Covi7nercial Buildings; Ulster Bank; Belfast Bank; Custom House, High-St., and

26 BELFAST.

Albert Square ; the Harbor Office ; the Linen Hall^ with the Belfast Librari/ ; Queen's College, reached bj the Botanic Road ; Presbyterian College^ University Square ; Methodist College. Other things to see : Bo- tanic Gardens, the Cooke statue, Belfast Museum, and The Flax Mills and Linen Warehouses, Visitors are readily admitted to most of the mills.

Excursions from Belfast. — To Cave Hill ; to the Giant'' s Ritig ; to Dimdalk ; to Bangor, the cliief water- ing-place for the inhabitants of Belfast ; and to Lord Dutierin's estate of Clandeboye, 9 M. from the city.

The traveller now has liis choice of various route* for leaving Ireland. If he desires to go direct from Belfast to Greenock or Glasgow, he can do so by the Hoyal Mail Steamship Line, daily service (Sun. ex- cepted); time, 8 hrs.; fare, 12s. 6d. T.^je routes by sea from Belfast to Liverpool and to London can only be recommended to those who have a passion for sea travel Pare to Liverpool, 12s. 6d.; to London, 25s. A boat leaves Belfast every evening (Srn. exce;^ted), at 7.45, for Barrow-in-Furness; fare, 12s. 6d. Through tickets to London (45s. 6d. or 21s. 3d., by the Mid- land Rly., 1st and 3d class only) are also sold, by this Barrow route, from various points along whicii the English Lake Region may be visited.

Ireland covers 32,393 square M., a little less than Maine, South Carolina, and Indiana ; and has upwards of 5,000,000 inhab., | of whom are Roman Catholics. It was Christianized by St. Patrick, in 432. Perpetual civil wars raged from the 8th to the 12th century. Id. 1172 England conquered much of Ireland, and discon- tent has been chronic ever since.

NORTH WALES. 27

NORTH WALES.

TTOIiYHEAD {JSF.-Western) affords a picturesque •^ introduction to some of the most romantic por- tions of Wales. Those not obh'ged to proceecl at once to Chester, Liverpool, or London, can spend 2-3 days with pleasure and profit at points along the line. Holyhead stands on Holy Island, divided by a small strait from Anglesea, and takes its name from a monastery founded in the 6th century. Good view from the hill of the rocky shores, the harbor of refuge, and the massive breakwater. The promon- tory of the head is hollowed by the ocean into caverns, which afford shelter to myriads of seafowl. There are important Roman remains here. The Ch. was erected in Edward III.'s time. The neighboring island of Anglesea, rich in minerals, was a principal seat of Druidical superstition. It was conquered with the rest of Wales by Edward L The Britannia Tubular Bridge, one of the wonders of Great Britain, is crossed about 21 M. from Holyhead. This, as well as the Menai Bridge, may be visited from Bangor. Engineers will be interested in the Conway and Britannia bridges, and in noting how the idea that budded in the first structure has fully blossomed in the later and larger one. See Smiles's *' Lives of the Engineers " for a description of the man- ner in which the two Stephensons worked out their thought; how "the great originator of the railway system watched with pleased attention the processes by which the son made quite certain of each step." The vast tubes were not placed where they now rest without enormous painstaking and trouble. One of the spans is 472 ft. in length, and, as it is composed

28 BANGOR.

entirely of iron, expands and contracts with the changes of temperature. To meet the difficulty, the ends of the tubes rest on movable rollers, and thus maintain the line of rail perfect. The Britannia Bridge^ is more than 100 ft. above the water-level. The Menai Suspension Bridge, 1 M. nearer Bangor, is also a stu- pendous work. Its greatest span from point to point" is 560 ft., and its elevation above the water-way at tlie higliest tide is 100 ft. It is the longest suspension, bridge in England or Wales. It was built in the old coaching days, in the early part of the century. After crossing this bridge, you have left the island of An- glesea and are on the mainland.

Bangor {(jfeorge; Railway; Williams' Temper- ance ; Castlr) lies in a valley between two gi'eat rocky ridges. On tbe N. is the pretty bay of Beaumaris. See Cathedral, with monuments of numerous Welsh prin- ces; the palace of the Bishop of Bangor, and cliaritable institutions ; and walk to the Menai Bridge. Mt, scenery fine. The cathedral was built in the 6th century, destroyed by the Anglo-Normans in the 11th, rebuilt in the 12th, and burned by Owen Gwyndwr in 1403. The present structure dates from the 16tli cen- tury, and is a massive construction, with a tower o. moderate heiglit. Bangor is in the oldest diocese in Wales. In the vicinity is a slate quarry of immense extent, in which as many as 2,000 persons are dt times

1 The Tubular Bridge cost £620,000. It is 1,500 ft. ..in length, and raised sufficiently liigh to allow ships with high- est masts to pass beneath it. It consists of a wrought-iron tube made of plates riveted together, 1,513 ft. long. 1,800 men were employed for 4 years on its construction. The tube^p were first riveted together, floated out on pontoons, and then raised into their places by hydraulic pressure. The whole weight is over 10.000 tons., ^

NORTH WALES. 29

employed. See the castle of Lord Penrhyn, in whose family the quarries are owned. 70,000 tons of slate are yearly shipped from Fort Fenrhyn.

The rly. now skirts the shore of Beaumaris Bay ; passes through Fenmaenmawr, near which is a mt. of the same name, 1,540 ft, high; through the Penbach Tunnel; and, just before reaching Conway, traverses the Conway Tubular Bridge, erected by Stephenson in 1848. It consists of two hollo^w rectangular tubes of wrought-iron plates, for the up and down trains, each measuring 400 ft. and weighing 1140 tons. Con-way {Castle Hotel) has a . castle which entitles it to the American pilgrim's earnest attention. This superb ruin is situated on a rock, guarded on two sides by the Conway River. It was built by Edward I. During the civil wars this oblong fortress, flanked by eight embattled towers, was garrisoned for the King, But the Parliamentary army took it. Charles II. gave it to the Earl of Conway, who stripped off the precious stores of timber, iron, and lead. It now belongs to the Marquis of Hertford. The massive walls of the town, with their towers and gateways, are still in good condi- tion. Among the odd old houses in Conway is one erected in 1577 by Robert Wynne, which is worth a visit. In the Ch. there are several monuments to members of the Wynne family. See The College in Castle-St., now inhabited by poor families. On the S. E. side of Great Orme's Head, 4 M, by rail from Conway, is the fashionable watering-place of Llan- dudno.

Tourists who have a few clays to spend in North Wales can make a variety of interesting excursions from Bangor or Conway. From the former point they may visit Caernarvon (Hotel : Royal Sportsman), an ancient tcwn, situated partly on the Menai Strait and

so CAERNARVON. — SNOWDON.

partly on the estuary of the Seiont. Caernarvon's chief object of interest is the castle erected by Edward I, There Edward II., the first Euglish Prince of Wales was born. The external walls of the castle are nearly 10 ft. thick.^ Near the Seiont formerly stood a strong fort, long a residence of the British princes. The view from the Eagle Tower is remarkably good. See the Terrace, outside the town walls, also Dniidical circles in the neighborhood. It is not quite 9 M. by rail from Bangor to Caernarvon, and in good weather a tramp along the highway between the two towns will be found enjoyable. From Caernarvon the Snowdonian region is easy of access. Roman rains abound in the vicinity; see site of the Roman station of Segontium. Llanberis, from which point Snowdon (3,571 ft. high) may be

1 Caei'narvou Castle, says an historian, is a " stupendous monument of ancient grandeur." It occupies the whole W. end of the town. Some years ago it seemed as if fast going to ruin ; its ivy-clad walls appeared to be yielding to the ravages of time, yet withal retaining a romantic singularity of their own ; and in 1828 the Eagle Tower — the largest of all — was struck by lightning, which cracked the walls sev- eral yards, and displaced large masses of stone. But great pains have since been taken to restore the fabric ; and it stands before us to-day a grand and beautiful structure. On two sides it is washed by the sea, on the third it was of yore protected . by a ditch, and on the fourth it was shut in by the town. Caernarvon is. probably only about \ M. from the site of Segontium, the principal Roman station in North Wales. The castle became the headquarters of the English ' after the Conquest by Edward, and here he had the treasury for the taxes exacted from his Welsh subjects. The Eagle Tower — so named from the figure of the bird standing on the summit — occupies one end of the oblong court, and has ^'^ree turrets rising from it

NORTH WALES. 51

ascended, is reached by rail from Caernarvon. Llanberis and Nant Ffrancon are two of the finest passes in Wales, and the latter is especially beautiful. The road through it winds under frowning precipices ; and Lake Ogwen's inky-black water breaks through a chasm in the rock into numerous cascades, some of them 100 ft. high, that find their way into the rich vale extending N. to Bethesda and Bangor. A good trip would be from Bangor to Caernarvon ; thence to Llanberis and through the Pass to Capel Curig ; thence to Bett-ws- y-Coed, tlie " Station in the Wood," a delicious sylvan retreat, where Coe painted some of his most beautiful pictures. Near by are the Falls of the Comoay.

Returning to the main line, the tourist will find but two or three other points worthy notice between Con- way and Chester. Abergele {Bee Hotel') is near Cave Hill, where there is a fine natural cavern ; and the mt.-pass in which the Welsh defeated Harold and, later on, massacred the troops of Henry II. Mrs. Hemans lived for many years at Abergele. In 1868 a frightful rly. accident, by which 33 persons were burned to death, occurred near this stat. RhyJ {Queen's Hotel ; Bel voir) is a pretty watering-place. A branch rly. runs thence to the little Welsh cathedral-town of Si. Asaph; and to Denbigh, a venerable hill-town with many very quaint old houses, and a stately ruined castle, on the hill. At Holywell the famous St. Wini- fred's Well is to be seen. Flint Castle, on a rock by the sea, was once the prison of Richard II. 13 M, beyond the train crosses the Dee, leaving Wales.

32 CHESTER.

ENGLAND.

CHESTER {Grosvenm- Hotel ; Queem^s, at the rly Stat.; Blossom's ; and others more or less ^oorl'i The curious features of this dehghtful town may be seen in a single day (or, with the aid of a carriage, is 3-4 hrs.). The traveller who has not already made uj liis mind should here decide whether he will go directlj to London, or N. to the English Lakes, and thence to Scotland. To those who contemplate making an ex- tensive tour on the Continent, and returning to the British Islands only late in September or October, we would recommend a trip from Chester to Liverpool, and thence, after having seen the sights in that city and in Chester and vicinity, direct to the English Lakes and Scotch mts. But many persons will probably like to go to London and the Continent at once, for a season, returning N. in August and resuming our English and Scotch itinerary/ from Chester or Liverpool.

Ancient Chester, on its pretty eminence, is suf&- ciently quaint and filled with ruins to satisfy the most curious of Transatlantic travellers. Some kind of town existed on this site before the Roman invasion, but it ■was the Romans who made the definite foundation. They chose this place as one of their principal military stations, called it the " City of the Legions," and made it the castra of the Twentieth Legion. Vast walls still •occupy the same ground and carry out the identical plan ichosen and arranged by the Roman leaders. Chester was laid waste in the early part of the 7th century by jEthelfrith, King of the Northumbrians : and then the memorials of the Roman sojourn were greatly injured. Tor nearly three centuries Chester lay in ruins, .^in

ENGLAND. SS

907 Alfred the Great's daughter, Ethelfleda, restored the ruined walls which the Danes had from time to time used as temporary strongholds ; and from that day Chester became important in English history. It was the very last city to hold out against WilUam the Conqueror ; and a nephew of tiie great Norman was made Earl of Chester, and built a castle there. Ches-) ter was especially prominent in the Civil War as the first city to declare for Charles, and the last to yield to the Parliamentary forces.

A Walk around the Old Walls may be begun at East Gate, near the Grosvenor or Blossom's Hotel. Going N. one comes first to the Cathedral (described below). Next beyond it, at the angle of the walls vrhere they turn W. to the North Gate, is the Phcenix Tower, on which Charles I. stood during the battle of Rowton Moor and gazed on the defeat of his army, Sept. 24, 1645. See inscription. Under the oralis at this point is the Shropshire Union Canal, cut In the solid rock. Moving on towards the North Gate, the original Roman walls, terminating in a cor- nice 6 ft. below the parapet, may be seen. From this gate there is an extensive view of the Welsh mts. and of Waverton and Christleton chs. Just outside the gate is an ajicient Blue Coat Hospital. A little far- ther on, from a square building on the r. side of the wall, there is a view of the river and the sea, Elint Castle, the Training College, etc. Anotlier tower, once know^n as the Goblin's, but now called Peinber- ton's Parlor, comes next. It beais a mutilated inscrip- tion about the " glorious reign of Anne." The Water Tower, as its name indicates, was once closely ap- proached by ships ; but the river is now a long way from the walls. This part of the fortifications was bombarded by Cromwell in 1645, Within the tower

34 CHESTER.

I ■

is a museum ; on its summit, a telescope. See railway viaduct and iron bridge over the Dee, near this point. The City Jail is an imposing structure. From the Water Gate note the Rhoodee race-course, and beyond* the river the line villas of Cui:^cn Park. Grosvenov Bridge, which spans the stream, has a span of 200 ft, Over the river, in Edgar s Field, is a statue of Pallas. The Castle, next approached, is a noble pile, erected in the last century on the site of the ancient one. " Csesar's Tower " is the only remnant of the old structure. See near the Castle the Combermere Monument and the Shire Hall. Drill in the Castle yard afternoons. Walk on over the Bridge Gate, rebuilt in 1782, to l^ew Gate (1608), and tlience to East Gate. Outside the walls, between Bridge and East Gates, is the Ch. of St. John the Baptist, founded in 689, and rebuilt in 1574.

*The Cathedral was begun in the 12th century, and the choir and central tower were finished in the early years of the 13th. The lady chapel, refectory, and chapter-house are said to have been constructed 1200-1230. Many portions were greatly altered in the period between 1485 and 1537. The ch. is almost entirely built of red sandstone, plentiful in the district. The restorations carried on for several years past liave proved highly successful. The E. portion is an excellent example of Early English style. The choir is be^tiful : note the Gothic work at the sides ; also the richly carven Gothic screen of stone, which separates the nave from the choir ; the bishop's throne, formed by the shrine of St. Werburgh of miraculous mem- ory ; and the black and white marble pavement in the choir. The W. front, though unfinished, is the best. The lector's pulpit in the refectory ; the colors of the 22d Cheshire regiment, carried at Bunker Hill, in the

ENGLAND, 35

chapter-house; and the great W. window of the nave, should be remarked. The stained-glass windows are modern. The cathedral's interior is not so imposing IS its exterior. Tradition says that a Roman temple to Apollo once stood on the site. The foundation of two towers, never completed, was laid in 1508. The Rows, covered avenues or galleries through the fronts of the second stories of the houses iii Eastgate, Watergate, Northgate, and Bridge Sts. (the old Roman ways), are one of the most striking features of Chester.^ Old Houses, remarkable for their curious carvings and for historical associations, are very numerous in Chester. Note the palace of the Earls of Derby, near the Water Gate ; and on Lower Bridge-St., leading from Bridge Gate, the house in which Charles I. resided during the siege. A Roman sweating-bath may be seen in one of the houses of the Bridge-St. Row. There are several Roman crypts, a thousand years old, beneath the an- cient buildings.

Eaton Hall, one of the country-seats of the Duke of Westminster, is 3 M, from Chester. Tickets of ad- mission to the grounds and mansion may be had for

^ Pennant says : " These Rows appear to me to have been the same with the ancient vestibules, and could have been a I form of building preserved from the time that the city was I possessed by the Romans. They were the places where de- ' pendants watched for tbe coming out of their patrons, and in i which they might walk away the tedious minutes of expecta- ' tion. Plautus, in the third act of his Mostellana, describes j both their station and use. The shops beneath the Rows ] were the cryptee and apothecse, magazines for the various I necessaries of the oAvners of the houses." Many of the Rows ( to-day form two terraces, the shops one above the other, the galleries being reached by flights of steps at convenient j lUstances.

36 . LIVEKPOOL.

a small sum at the Grosvenor Hotel and of tlie news- dealers. The house is an elaborate structure, with a great number of pinnacles and turrets, and is 460 ft. long. The walk thither, over Grosvenor Bridge and through the Park, entering by a gateway copied from the Abbey Gate at Canterbury, is very interesting. The marble floor in the entry alone cost 1,600 guineas. There are a few noticeable paintings at Eaton Hall.

Liverpool.

From Chester important hues of railway radiate K all directions. The traveller may proceed to Liver^ pool, via Runcorn, crossing the celebrated Runcorn^ Bridge ^ and its viaducts, and arriving at the Lime-St. terminus of the London and Northwestern Railway (fare, 3s. ; time, a little more than half an hour) ; or he may go from Chester to Birkenhead, and cross from this latter place to Liverpool by ferry (lime and fare about the same, but scenery uninteresting) ; or he may walk through Eastham, Bebington, etc., to Rock Eerry, and there cross to Liverpool. We recommend the walk to Chester yro/« Liverpool for those who have made their first entry into Europe at the great seaport. If Liverpool has somewhat shocked their sesthetic sense, and disappointed their expectations of romancxj in Europe, Chester will re-establish their enthusiasm,

1 The entire length of this structure is 2 J M. The bridge is approached upon the Runcorn Viaduct, carried by 33 arches, I of 23 ft. span, 29 of 40 ft. span, and 3 of 61 ft. span. The viaduct is carried over the river Mersey at d height of 80 ft. by 3 girders of 305 ft. sj^an, each supported upon 4 castellated piers, stretching over a distance of 27|| chains. The total cost of the structure was £422,400, of which £41,800 was paid for land.

ENGLAND. §7

Liverpool (Hotels: AdelpM; Northwestern Rail- way ; Grand ; Lancashire and Yorkshire; Shaftes- bury Temperance; Impei'ial ; Afigel. Restaurants: Sainshiiry's Lancheoii Rooms; Bear's Paw; State; and at stations and hotels) is the port at which many tourists from the United States first land. It is a city of over 650,000 inhab., the second seaport in the United Kingdom, and possesses the finest docks in the world. See the " Chapter for Travellers" for in- structions as to Landing at Liverpool. Liverpool is essentially a modern town. In 1561 it was a liamlet ; in 1644 Prince Rupert called it " a crow's nest " ; but in 1871 it numbered half a million. Liverpool's im- portance dates from the upspringing of the cotton manufacture in England. There have been years in which the value of its exports has been twice as great as that of the exports from London ; 30,000 seamen constantly throng its quays. Its public buildings are as new as those of American cities. There is scarcely one older than the present century. '

^ " Liverpool is not even mentioned in the list of towns in the Doomsday Book of the Norman invaders. It is spoken of for the first time in 1172, when Henry II. made the con- quest of L-eland, and embarked his ships in the Mersey. Towards 1700 its population was hardly 5,0"00. The block- up of the Dee at Chester profited Liverpool ; and its mer- chants began to jet rich, above all in the slave trade. As the painter Fuseli said, when he was asked to admire the great streets, 'the blood of the negroes seems to have fil- tered through these carven stones.' The city occupies the geographical centre between Great Britain and Ireland. It is the only point of convergence for domestic exchange be- tween the British Islands. This central position is also an

38 LIVERPOOL.

The Docks, some parts of which may be seen from the steamers ascending the Mersey, deserve a careful visit. Liverpool lies on the r. bank of the river Mersey; opposite it is the important town of Birkenhead; and the " silent highway " between is thronged with ships from every part of the globe. The dock system extends from the Herculaneum Graving Dock to the N. part of the Hornby Dock, a distance of 6 M. An electric elevated road, running from Seaforth Sands to Dingle, passes by the whole line of docks (3d., 2d.). All intervening space is filled with docks and quays, two and sometimes three deep. The Canning, Salthouse, George's, King's, Queen's, and Brunswick Docks, and the Queen's and Prince's Half- Tide Basins, were constructed between 1717 and 1816. In the King's Dock and wareliouses are stored and bonded immense quantities of leaf tobacco and cigars. Railways communicate by tunnels directly with the dock system. The total quay space of the Liverpool docks is estimated at 26 M.; of the basins, 8 M.; and the total water area of the docks, 389 acres. The Prince s Landing Stage, at which passengers from and to America disembark and depart, is a noble work. It is said that nearly \ of the trade of the port is with the United States. The town possesses -^ of the shipping of Great Britain, \ of the foreign trade, \ of the gen- eral commerce, and more than \ as umcli trade as the port of London.

advantage for foreign commerce, which has chosen Liverpool for its depot. Farther than Bristol from the high sea, which is the road to America, Africa, and the Indies, Liverpool overcomes this inferiority hy the advantage which she has iu being close to the border of a coal basin, which has become the principal seat of all the manufactures of the entire world." {Elisee Reclits^

ENGLAND 39

St. George's Hall is one of the raost conspicuous objects in Liverpool. It is a vast and imposing struc- ture, completed in 1851, and contains the Assize Courts, an immense hall for public meetings, and a concert room. The portico on the S. is very fine. It surmounts a pedestal of noble steps, 150 ft. wide, ter- miuating in a pediment, the tympanum of which is enriched by sculptures representing Britannia ofi'ering the olive branch, with the lion at her side and the Mersey flowing at her feet. Mercury is represented as leading to her from the other side Asia, Europe, Africa, and America. In tlie great hall is one of the largest organs in the world, with 108 stops and 8,000 pipes. See the bronze doors which lead to the -Crown Court. In front of St. George's Hall are statues of the Prince Consort and Queen Victoria. Four stone lions guard the principal entrance to the area between the hall and Lime-St. Not far away is the Alexandra Theatre. The Wellington Monument, cast from cannon taken at Waterloo, is also near St. George's Hall. A little to the N. is Brown's Free Public Library and Museum, built at the expense of the late Su* William Brown. Near by is the Walker Art Gallery.

The Municipal Offices, in Daie-St. ; the Town Hall ; tlie Exchange, which covers two acres, in the commer- cial quarter, are handsome edifices. On the Exchange Flags, where the merchants meet, stands a bronze gtatue of Nelson, by Westmacott. St. John's Market, a vast structure, is on Great Charlotte-St. The Cus- tom House and Post-Office, at the junction of Strand- St. flnd Wapping, has beneath it extensive vaults for the storing of goods in bond. See the Sailors' Hornet close by.

40 LIVERPOOL.

Other Objects of Interest in Liverpool. — The

Botanic Gardem, in Edge Lane. Tlie Corn Exchangty on Brunswick-St. St. Nicholas' Ch., the only real an- tiquity in LiverpooL The original cliapel was built in the time of William the Conqueror. In old times a statue of St. Nicholas, patron of mariners, stood in the yard. The ch. was restored in 1774. The tower facing the S. side was erected as one of a series of " signal steeples." Prince's hudL Stanlei/ Parks ; from the latter a good view of the sea and the Cumberland hills. St. James's Cemetery, formerly a stone quarry, and filled for its present purpose at an expense of ^20,000. The Mausoleum of Huskisson is here. Sefton Park, purchiisecl at a cost of £450,090 from the Earl of Sef- ton, Liverpool has expended vast sums the past feW years on street nnprovements ; but the 2^oor quarter is still horribly unhealthy. A walk through it should be undertaken only in the daylight hours. Estates and Residences of Noblemen near Liverpool : Knowsley Hall, owned by the Earl of Derby (see the Stanley portraits there) ; Croxteth Hall, the Earl of Seftcu's seat ; Childwall Abbey, a residence of the Marquis of Sahsbury. Excursions may be made from Liverpool to New Brighton, down the river b}'' ferry-boat from the George's Landing stage; and to Eastham, a pretty pleasure-resort.^

1 " The cities crowded together in the neighborhood of Liverpool and Birkenhead are very numerous. In an angle of Cheshire is Neio Brighton, a water-side pleasure-resort. Toxteth Park is a suburb situated near the Mersey. On the N. and the E. are Bootle, Linacre, "Walton-on-the-Hill, West Dei'by, Widnes, Wavertree, Prescot, St. Helens, Ince, and Newton-in-Makerficld. St. Helens has very important glass manufactories. The basin of the Ribble contains a very considerable population. Round the mouths of the mines

ENGLAND. 41

Birkenhead {Queen's Hotel ; TF«9(9cZs/^e), an essen- tially modern town of about 115,000 inhab., is near the mouth of tlie Mersey, on the S. shore facing Liverpool. Constant communication by steam-ferries and the new tunnel under the Mersey. Ship-building is the main industry. The docks cover 500 acres. Here are the docks of the Messrs. Laird, where the Alabama was built. The Gh., which overlooks the river, is part of the old Priory of Byrkhed, founded in Henry II. 's reign.

rise groups of factories. The central city of the basin, Black- burn, is one of those towns black with smoke, where steam- engines are incessantly roaring. Clitheroe-on-the-Ribble is in the midst of a charming country. Between Blackbui'u and Liverpool the manufacturing towns are close together. Over- Darwen, Chorley, Wigan, Hindley, are but a stone's throws from each other. Not far from Wigan is the deepest coal' mine in Great Britain. On the W. of Wigan is the grea/ market town of OrmesTcirk. Preston, ' proud Preston,' majestically situated where the Ribble begins to broaden, i? the most populous city of the whole basin. It is at the samt time a manufacturing place of the first order, especially foi? cottons. Lancaster is to the N., distant from the centre of population. It is no longer a capital except in name, although it still keeps certain prerogatives as a ducal city. Built on the site of a Roman military station, it is overlooked by a castle where there were many important ruins. Lan- caster, prominent in so many events in the civil wars, is now a peaceful commercial town, wdth numerous cotton factories. The Fleetwood Railway unites it with Poulton, on Morecambe Bay, a maritime summer -resort. The town w^hich attracts most visitors is Blackpool, situated N. of the Ribble estuary, on a hill from whence the waters of the Irish Sea can be seen."

42 GRANGE. — FURNESS ABBEY.

The English Lake District.

Those persons who desire to visit the English Lakes^- and to proceed thence to Scotland, before going, as the English saj, "up to London," will find Liverpool their best point of departui-e. Erom Liverpool to Winder- mere the distance is 87J M. ; and the fares, 25s. 6d., 18s. 3d., lis. 6d. This route is through Wigan, Pres- ton, and Lancaster to Oxenholme Junction, vi^here & good view of Kendal, the largest town in Westmore- land, is obtained, and from Oxenholme by branch rail- way to Wuidermere, whence excursions can be made in all directions. But vre think the American tourist would find it interesting to enter this beautiful re- gion by another route, as follows : Take ticket from Liverpool to Grange (fares, 21s. 6d., 15s. 6d., 10s.). You pass through Wigan, Pres-ton, and Lancaster, and a little beyond this last place change at Carnforth Junction. The railway thence to Grange carries you across arms of Morecambe Bay, and beside wild stretches of quicksand, where hundreds of lives have been lost. Grange {Grange Hotel, a charming house on the slope of a wooded hill) is called the " Torquay of the North." Its climate is mild, even in winter ; and it is a favorite fashionable resort. Castle Head, once a Roman station, is near by. Erom Grange an excursion should be made to Furness Abbey, by the railway passing through Ulverston, Lindal, Dalton, and other points in the rich Eurness mining district, and termi- nating at the important town of Barrow. (Returzij ticket, 1st class. Grange to Eurness Abbey, 5s.) Tour- ists will be well repaid for visiting the ruin, and the ex- cursion may be made in an afternoon by those who have left Liverpool for Grange in the morning. " The Royal

Abbey of St. Mary of Furness" was founded in 1127, in Henry I.'s reign, by Stephen, his successor on the throne of England. The monks of the Cistercian order grew rapidly rich and powerful. The abbots of Furness were lords in Parliament, and had their little army. The ruin is now the property of the Duke of Devonshire. Admission to the grounds, which are close to the stat., free. The roofless cli., the lavishly decorated chapter- house, the scriptorium, and the refectory contain many interesting memorials. The E. window is preserved in the sanctuary at Bowness ; it is a superb specimen of mediaeval glass-painting. Furness Abbey Hotel is near the ruins. Along the rly. lie beds of hem- atite iron ore, from which about 600,000 tons are annu- ally taken. From Ulverston {Sun ; County Hotel) , the capital of Furness^ a branch line leads %o Lake Side, on Windermere Lake. One can also go directly from Furness Abbey or from Barrow by rail to the head of Coniston Lake. See time-tables of Northwestern and Midland Railways, and local guide-books, for a host of details concerning round trips, circular tickets, etc. Holker Hall^ a residence of the Duke of Dev- onshire, may be visited on the way back from Fur- ttess Abbey to Grange. Stop at Cark, and wa^k to the Hall, 1 M. The Hall and park are on the L<3ven, ilowing out of Lake Windermere. Many charming walks in this vicinity, from the weird Leven Sands up to and through sweet and romantic Holker Village, with its cottages nestling among rose-trees and fuchsias, and on to Cartmel and its ancient Priory. Holker Hall contains a fine collection of paintings, and the park is well stocked with deer. Levens Hall may be visited from Grange ^,t is on the E. side of the river Kent.

44 WINDERMERE.

Tlie gardens on the estate were laid out by Beaumont, James II. 's faio'^'is gardener. Returning to Grange, sleep tliere, and ^ake the coach next morning for Newby Bridge and Lake Side (foot of Lake Windermere) at about 10 o'clock. This 8 M. drive is delightful. At Newby Bridge the time-honored and picturesque Swan Jrrn sliould be noticed. At Lake Side, wliere the train from Ulverston comes in {Lake Side Hotel, very good), one may take the steam -yacht which plies regularly on the waters of Windermere, stopping at the Ferry (5 M.), Bowness (6 M.), or Waterhead''(ll M.). This last is the stat. for Ambleside, f M. from the lake ;" and at Ambleside one is in the very heart of the Lake region. (Fare from Grange to Ambleside by this route, about 5s.) A party of four persons would find it worth their while to hire a carriage at Grange, and drive first to Newby Bridge ; thence to Lake Side ; then across from Winder- mere Lake, past Esfhwaite Water (around which Words- worth used to walk when he was attending school near by), through the old town of Hawkshead, down to the Waterhead Quay on Coniston Lake ; and from that point over the Oxenfell, past Skelwith Bridge and Elter Water and Brathay, into Ambleside. This can be done easily* in 5-6 hrs., including stops, and in fine weather is a bewitching journey. The descent to Coniston and the approach to Ambleside aiford two of the loveliest views in England. Make special bargain for carriage; driver receives fee of 3s. — 3s. 6d. We advise tourists to hasten to Ambleside, and make their excursions from there. Tiie Long Sleddale, Kentmere, Troutbeck, and Busland Vales may be best visited from Windermere Yillage. or Bowness ; but everything else of importance is most accessible from Ambleside.^

1 The. traveller will find pocket editions of Wordswortll and Southey excellent companions ; also. Prof. Wm. Knight'*

ENGLAND. 45

Windermere Lake is 10^ M. long and 1 M, broad

ih its widest part. It is 184 ft. above the sea-level, and varies in depth from 90 to 240 ft. Opposite Bow- ness there is a group of about a dozen siuall islands. The surrounding hills rarely rise above 1,000 ft. At a few yards from the head of the lake, the rivers Brathay aud Rothay unite their waters. There are no such rich effects of color, no such bold and magnifi- cent mountain masses, as on the shores of the Swiss lakes ; but there is a bewildering richness of Northern vegetation, and a constant succession of beautiful land- scapes such as few othe/ countries can boast. (Boat, to row yourself. Is. an hr. ; with boatman. Is. 6d. per hr. ; for the day, with boatman, 10s.)

Bcwness [Crown Hotel ; Royal; Old England) \% jn a pleasant bay, and commands good views of the upper reaches of the lake. Ancient parish ch. here. Coaches every raoruing in summer for Coniston; and for Patter- dale, by the Trout beck Va'3 and Kirkstone Pass.

Windermere {Rigga's Windermer& Hotel) is 1^ lailea from tlie lake by road, | M. by footpath, and 5 j\I. from Ambleside. Coach each morning in summer to Patterdale. A short distance from the stat. formerly stood Elleray, tbe residence of Prof. "Wilson (Christo- pher North) ; it has been replaced by a new house. Fine view from Orrest Head, 783 ft. high (i hr.'s walk).

Ambleside {Salutatio7i; Queens; Wh.ite Lion; Waterhead, at the lake pier) is nearly 1 M. from the head of Windermere Lake, in a lovely situation at the foot of Wansfell Pike. Omnibuses often to Grasmere and to head of lake ; and coaches for Keswick, and

" The Enghsh Lake District. a° interpreted in the Poems of Wordsworth," price 5s. Baddeley's Guide is capital. Jenkin- soa's " Practical Guide," price 7s., is a good book. Thei-e ar« also a dozen small pamphlet guides for 6d. or Is. each.

46 AMBLESIDE. — CONISTON LAKE.

thrice daily for Windermere. Eare from Liverpool to Ambleside, 28s. 6d., 20s. 6d., 13s. 6d.; from London to Ambleside, in 7 hrs., 76s. 4d., 58s. lOd., 39s. 6d.

At Ambleside you are on classic ground. The landlord at the Salutation Inn (which venerable hos- telry is now in its twenty-fourth decade, although the building is not) says that Americans always ask him how far it is to Wordsworth's grave, where Harriet Martineau lived, etc., but that English tourists never do. Ambleside is picturesque, although the inhabitants build ugly residences out of the slate which abounds in the neighborhood. The park -like vale of Bothay, with its rich woods and pretty vistas of green fields, seems made for the home of contemplation. The new Ch. of St. Mary designed by Sir Gilbert Scott, is in a charm- ing location. We give a number of short excursions within walking distance, out of which the tourist must choose those which strike his fancy. To the Stoch Ghyll Force (waterfall, 70 ft. high), within the Salutation Hotel grounds. The distances mentioned below are computed from the " Salutation." To Rydal Mount, Ch., and Ealls, 2 M. ; to Skelgill and Wansfell Pike, 8 M.; to the top of Kirkstone Pass, 4 M.; to Grastnere, under Louglirigg Eell, and back by Nab Scar, 9 M.; to Clappersgate, IM.; Brathay Ch., 2 M. ; Low Wood Hotel, 2 M.; Troutbeck Ch., 4 M.; Langdale Ch., 5 M. Tickets for a circular tour by Coniston, Euruess Abbey, and Windermere Lake (fares, 8s. 9d., Gs. 6d.), and for the whole tour, can be obtained at Ambleside or at Bowness. They are available for 7 days.

Coniston Lake, 5| M. long and f M. broad, is 164 ft. deep in some places. Its surroundings are fine, and the view down upon it from some neighboring mt. is charming. A steam yacht plies up and down the lake 3 times daily (fares. Is. 6d. and Is.), Excur-

ENGLAND. 47

sions up Coniston Old Man (2577 ft.), AVetlierlara, and Black Combe Mis. are for the leisurely tourist.

Goach Services from Ambleside : For the Langdale Drive, 6s. ; to Keswick, several times daily, 6s. 6d, single, and 9s. 6d. return tickets. The Langdale Drive is from Ambleside to Rothay Bridge, iM.; Skelwith Bridge, 3; Colwith Force, 41- ; Smithy Houses, 5|; Dungeon Gill, 9^ ; Chapel Stile, 12|; High Close, 14 ; Grasmere Ch., 15 1 ; Ambleside, 19|. Much of the scenery visited on this drive is described in Words- worth's " Excursion." i

1 Private Carriane Excursions from Ambleside, recom- mended to tourists who have time at their disposition. — To Patterdale by Kirkstone Pass, Brothers' Water, and back (an exceedingly interesting drive, abounding in wild and romantic scenery), 24 M.; or back by Troutbeck, 25 M. To Keswick by Rydal Water, Grasmere, Dunmail Raise, Thirlmere, Castlerigg, and back, 34 M.; or back by St. John's Vale, 37 M. To Coniston by Tarn Hows, back by Hawkshead, Blslham Tarn, Wray Castle, to Ambleside, 18 M, To Coniston by Tarn Hows, back by Hawkshead, Esthwaite Water, the Ferry, Wray Castle to Ambleside, 23 M.; or across the Ferry and back to Ambleside by Bowness, 25 M. Around Windermere Lake by Brathay, Wray Castle, .the Ferry, Graythwaitc, to Newby Bridi^e, and back by the E. side of Windcrraore, Bowness to Ambleside, 30 M. Around Langdale by Clappersgate, Brathay, Skehvith, Blea Tarn, Little Langdale, Wall End, back by Great Langdale, Red Bank, Grasmere, Rydal, to Ambleside, 21 M.; or direct by Elterwater, 18 M. By Clappersgate to Skelwith, Lough- rigg Tarn, High Close, Red Bank, Grasmere, Rydal,. to Am- bleside, 12 M. To the top of Kirkstone, back by vale of Troutbeck and Low Wood, 11 M.; or back by Cook's House, 15 M. To Bowness, back by Windermere, Cook's House, Vale of Troutbeck, and Low Wood, 17 M. To Hawkshead, .back by Wray Castle, Blelham Tarn, 12 M.

4S ULLSWATER LAKE.

From Ambleside to UUswater Lajs.^

Ullswater Lake is usually visited either from Amblc' side or from Keswick. During the tourist season a coacli leaves Ambleside for Patterdale at 10 a.m. daily. The route through Ambleside to the Kirkstone Pass passes in front of the Salutation Hotel, and branches to the r., passing the old ch. Here and there it is very steep, winding along the side of the Fell. Below, on the r., is the Stock Ghyll, on the opposite side of which is Wansfell Pike. The inn at the top of the Pass, called the Traoellers' Rest, is said to be the highest in- habited house m England. It stands 1,475 ft. above the sea-level. Travellers, independent of the coach, would better drive round by Troutbeck Bridge and up ttie bold hills, commanding a view of the Fall of Trout- beck, to the top of the Pass. Descending from the Travellers' Rest, you pass on the 1. the Kirk Stone, which looks, perhaps, a trifle like a ch. from a point half-way down the nit., towards Brothers' Water, a little lake, named from the drowaiing of two brothers in its depths. While at the top of the Pass, you can see the flames from the blast furnaces in the Barrow dis- trict, and catch a glim',)se of the Irish Sea. The Dove Crags, beyond the Brothers' Water Hotel, are extremely picturesque.

Patterdale {Falter dale Hotel; White Lion) stands in a pretty valley, a few hundred 3'^ards from the head ©f the lake. 1 M. farther on is the TJllsioater Hotel, first-class. The scenery all about this point is rich and varied. The view from the windows of the Ullswater Hotel over the lake, with its woody shores and its islands, is very beautiful. (Fares for tour on Ullswater Lake, by steam yacht, 3§. and 2s. ^ The boats call at

ENGLAND. "49

Howtown, and next land passengers close to Pooley Bridge, whence coaches run to nicer, the trams at Pen- rith. From Penritli, rail to Keswick.

UUswater Lake is 9 M. long, f M. broad, and 2JIO ft. deep. The upper reach of the lake is the most beautiful. Many people prefer this to Lake Derweut- .water. See Li/ulph's Tower and Ir>t Force, a waterfall 80 ft, high. This cascade is the scene of the incident on whicli Wordsworth's poein of the Somnambulist is founded. The journey from Ambleside to UUswater usually takes 2| hrs. Wordsworth intended to make his home at a cottage under Place Pell, near Patter- dale ; but the owner asked more than the prudent man thought it was worth, and he remained at Grasmere, The phices in the UUswater district associated with the poet are best approached by the road from Grasmere to Helvellyn, leading past Girsdale Tarn.

From Ambleside to Keswick via Rydal Mount and Grasmere.

T]iose persons who have not taken the Langdale Drive, or who have not been at Grasmere from Amble- side, may visit the old homes and the grave of Words* worth on their way to Keswick. The coaches stop at the places of interest. The road out of Ambleside leads past tlie Knoll, and the ivy-covered residence in which Harriet Martineau lived for a long time. This house is on the 1. Thence the route lies up the Rothay valley to Rydal. Note Fox How, Dr. Arnold's old residence to the 1., beyond the Pothay. A steep road on the r. leads out of Pydal to Rydal Mount, where Wordsworth spent 37 years of his life, and where he died in 1850. As many of the memorials of the poet in his home as possible have been preserved unaltered; but the

5'0 GRASMERE.

old picturesque frontage with its 12 win(lows^ aud the ash-tree, near which hung the "osier cage" of the doves, are gone. The present owner of the house dechnes to show it. The location is extremely beauti- ful. Ri/dal Falls are at the back of Rydal Hall. Guide at cottage below the ch. Returning to the main road, tiie traveller passes through tlie gorge between Nab Scar on tlie r. aud Loughrigg Fell on the 1. ; sees on the r. Nah Collage, in which Hartley Coleridge lived for a long time, and where he died; and readies Ri/dul Water, one of the most diminutive of the lakes. From this point it is but a short distance to the delightfully situated Grasmere Lake. It is 1 M. ' long and \ M. broad. An island of 4 acres' area lies in its centre. On the border of this lake is the Frmce of Wales Eolel, a good house. Grasmere {Rothay Hotel ; Swan; Red Lion) lies mainly at the ]M. end of the lake, although many of the newer residences border on the highway. Knight says: " The cottage at the town end of Grasmere, to which Wordsworth came with his sister in the last days of the last century, is, even more than Rydal Mount, identified with his poetic prime. It had once been a public house, bearing the sign of the Dove and Olive Bough, from which circumstance it was for a long time, and is still, occasionally named *Dove Cottage.' It is a small, two-storied house." (See De Quincey's description, in "Recollections of the Lakes," pp. 131, 137.)^ Grasmere Ch. is the one

* The localities most deeply identified with Wordsworth are : Grasmere, where he lived so long, and i^s buried ; Lower Easedale, where he spent so many days witl? his .sister, by the side of the brook, and on the terraces at Lancrigg, where The Prelude was written; Rydal Mount, «v]?^re. he Jived the latter half of his hfe, and found one ^ tu^ most

ENGLAND. 51

which Wordsworth drew in '^The Excursion," and in its cemetery lie lies buried. Tlie interior is as the poet described it: there are the " nalced rafters in- tricately crossed," the oaken benches, the "heraldic shield" in the " altar window," etc. After a visit to the ch. you can find some very lovely rambles in the vicinity. The road to Keswick chrabs Dunmail Raise Pass, with Steel Fell on the 1. and Seat Sandal on the r., and crosses the boundary between Cumberland and Westmoreknd. Descending on the other side, Thirl- mere Lake appears, with Mt. Helvellyn on the r. and part of Skiddaw in the distance. "The coach stops Bt the inn at Wythburn. The ch. at Wythburn is Dne of the smallest in England. From hence the ascent of Mt. Helvellya Is easiest. Height, 3118 ft. ; distance to top from Wythburn, 2 1-2 M. ; time required, 1 1-2 hrs. Thirlmere Lake, which sup- plies Manchester with water, is 2 1-2 M. long, and very narrow. From the W. shore many lovely views may be obtained. From an elevation in the road just beyond this point, Blencathara may be seen. The rich Vale of St. John also opens its charm- ing vistas on the r.; and not far from the King's Head Inn, at Thirlspot, a glimpse of Castle Bock, the fairy castle of Sir Walter Scott's " Bridal of Triermain," if

perfect retreats in En.glaiid ; and the old (upper) path be- tween Rydal and Grasmere, under Nab Scar, his favorite walk during his later years, where he composed hundreds of verses. There is scarcely a rock or mountain -summit, a stream or tarn, or even a well, a grove, or a forest-side, in all that neighborhood, which is not imperishably associated with that poet, who at once interpreted them as they had never been intei-preted before, and added

"The gleam, Tlie light that never was on sea or land. The consecration, and the poet's dream." .

52 KESWICK.-DERWENTWATER LAKE.

obtained. An uninteresting stretch of country comes next ; after which the traveller is gratified with one oi the most exquisite panoramas in the Lake Region, the Derwent Valley, with pretty Keswick, and portions of Bassenthwaite and Derwentwater Lakes.

Keswick (Hotels: Keswick, attherly. stat. ; Royal Oah; (Queens; 6^eor^e; l/aj^e) is surrounded by a noble company of mts., with Skiddaw, the chief, 3058 ft., towering above them. It is a handsome little town, and one or two days may be spent in the neighbor- fM hood. 1 M. from Keswick, at the foot of Lake W Derwentwater, in Portinscale, is the Deriventwater Hotel (good). 3 M. from Keswick is the Lodore Hotel, and behind it the Lodore Fall, which Southey celebrated in verse. The Barrow and Lodore Water- § falls, the Bowder Stone, Corrowdale Valley, Honister Pass, Buttermere and Crummock Lakes, Scale Force, and the Newlands Valley may be seen on the excursion called the Buttermere Drive. Excursionists are con- veyed in open wagonettes (fares 5s., and Is. for driver) through this pleasant series of sylvan and lake scenery. Borroivdale is considered one of the finest valleys in Great Britain. The Wastwater Excursion from Kes- wick is interesting, but fatiguing.

Derwentwater Lake lies 238 ft. above the sea- level; is 80 ft. deep in the centre, 3 M. long and 1^ M. wide. From the Friar's Crag, on this Lake, there is a magnificent outlook. There- are several islands, one of which, St. Herbert, was occupied by a hermit monk in the 7th century. On Rampshohne Island, the Earls of Derwentwater once had a mansion; and from it Lady Derwentwater escaped, taking with her the family Jewels, to procure the release of the Earl, who was imprisoned in the Tower of London for taking part in the rebellion of 1715. (Charge for boat with boat-

ENGLAND. 53

man on the lake, 2s. for the first hour, Is. 6d. for every succeeding hour.) For those pressed for tune, a drive Touud Derwent water Lake wiil give a view of the prin- cipal points of scenery. Bassenthwaite Lake begins nbout 8 M. N. of tlie foot of Derwentwater. It is 4 M. long and about f M. wide. Tlie river Derwent, which carries the waters from the Derwent and Kes- wick Lakes, enters it at its head, and leaves it at its foot, flowing past Cockermouth and into the sea. Bassenthwaite has three promontories on its E. side, which is overshadowed by Skiddaw. It is not often visited by tourists, because it lies on the N. outslcirt of the Lake District: but it is well worth seeing.

Greta Hail, where the poet tSouthey spent the best part of his life, is a short distance from Kes« wick. Walk dov^n the main street to the bridga crossing the river Greta, whence a good view may be had of the Hall. It stands on the r., surrounded by trees. From this point to Crosthwaite Ch. is a pleasant walk, and in the ch.-yard is Southey's grave. The edifice contains a monument to the laureate, consisting of a fidl-length figure. The poetical inscription was written by Wordsworth. In the chancel is a monu- ment to Sir John Radcliffe, Knight, an ancestor of the Earls of Derwentwater. From the tower, good view. A footpath througii the meadow called Houray was one of Southey's favorite walks. From this point fine view of the magnificent group of mts. : on the N., tlte huge mass of Skiddaw; on the E., Wallow Crag; and to the S., the Borrowdale nUs. The lead-pencil manu. factories near Keswick merit a visit; so does an in- genious model of the Lake District in a museum in the town. From Castle Head, \ M. outside Keswick, mosi of Bassenthwaite Lake, a portion of Derwentwater, the whole of the inter vemng valley, and Mt. Skiddaw may bf

64 KESWICK. — PENKITH.

eeen. St. John and Crostliwaite Clis. may also be seen 5rom this point. Unless the weatiier is fine, it is use- less to hope for any satisfactory view of the mts. Even in midsummer the front of Skiddaw is overhung with mists for a large part of the time. About 1| M. from Keswick, in a field adjoining the old Penrith road, are the Druids' Stones, formed of 88 stones, the largest of which is upwards of 7 ft. high. Near by are the tow- ering heights of Helvellyn, Blencathara, and Skiddaw, and, in the distance, to the W., an impressive range.

Ascent of Skiddaw from Keswick. — ■ The distance io the top is about 5^ M. ; time, there and back, 4-6 hrs. ; charge for pony, 6s. ; guide, 6s. A guide is usually necessary from Skiddaw to the summit of Blencathara j 4istance, about 6 M. ; ground in places very wet.

The tourist can now go on to Scotland (which course we recommend), via Penrith and Carlisle ; or can re- turn to Liverpool (fares from Keswick, 89s. 2d., 27s. 2d., 18s.), and thence go to London by the North

VYestern Rly., arriving at Euston stat. (fares, by all the lines, 29s., 21s. 9d., 16s. 9d.; distance, 201f M.); the Midland, arriving at St. Pancras ; the Great Northern, arrivin.g^ at King's Cross ; or the Great Western, arriv- ing at Faddington stat. Free parlor ears are run on express trains, both on the L. & N. W. Ry. and the Midland Ky.

From Keswick to Carlisle and Scotland^

From Keswick to Penrith, 18 M. (fares, 4s. 4d.,. Is, lOd.). Penrith {Crown Hotel; George) is charm- ingly situated. Excursions may be made to Brougham -Castle and Hall, Arthur's Round Table, Lowther Castle and the famous Eden Hall, which contains the curious,

ENGLAND. 53

old drinkiug-glass called tlie ''Luck of Eden Hall.** See ruins of Fenrith Caaile, a favorite residence of Ricliard III. In the cemetery of tlie parish ch. is the Giant's Graoe, an ancient mysterious mou)id

Carlisle {County Station Hotel ; Central; Crown and Mitre), 18 M. from Penrith and 8 M. from the Scottish border, is the capital of Cumberland. It dates back to the Roman days, and was close to Hadrian's wall. In the early wars between England and Scotland it was of great importance. The Gadle was built by William Rufus. Within it Mary Queen of Scots was imprisoned in 1568. The Cathedral does not stand in the front rank ; but its E. window is commonly said to be the largest and finest in the Kingdom. The ch. was originally part of a Norman priory, built of red free- stone. It contains a monument to Dr. Paley, Arch- deacon of Carlisle. Note the old glass of the time of Richard II., in the E. window, and the exauisite details of the flamboyant Gothic work. The walls and windows of the choir are Norman; the upper part of the choir, with the E. end and the roof, Late Decorated. See the old abbey gate-house ; and the refectory, now used as the chapter- house ; also quaint houses in the market-place ; and 1 he Moot Hall.

Beyond Carlisle the rly. enters the Debatable Ground, where for centuries the borderers waged war on each other. A little farther on is Ecclefechan (Scotland), where Thomas Carlyle was born and is buried. The rly. crosses the Esk, descending from Liddesdale : —

** March, inarch, Eskdale and Liddesdale, AJi the blue bonnets are over the border."

56 THE LAND OF BUENa

SCOTLAND.

SHORTLY after crossing the Sark River, which is. Mia boundary between England and Scotland, the route passes Gretna Junction, near which is Gretna Green, formerly the resort of iTinaway couples anxious to be married. These marriages, rendered possible by the dif- ference between the English and Scotch law, were first celebrated, in 1760, by a tobacconist named Paisley. In 1856 they were suppressed by act of Parliament. Annan Junction was the scene of the spirited escape of King Edward Balliol, in 1332, from the cavalry of Archibald Douglass. It was the birthplace of Edward Irving, in 1792.

The Land of Burns

can be visited from Glasgow ; but it will be more satls» factory to go from Carlisle to Dumfries, pass the night, and then pi'oceed to Ayr. The excursion may be made ill a day.

Dumfries (>S'/a/2''o?i; Commercial; King'' s Arms) is 32| M. from Carlisle (fares, 5s. 6d., 4s. Id., 2s. 9d.). Here Burns Uved for several years, and here he died, at the house now known as Burns's. He also lived for 18 months after he became an exciseman, at the foot of Bank-St. His Mausoleum is in St. Michaels Ch.- yard ; in the vault beneath, lie Burns and Lis wife and son. The Oreyfriars Oh. deserves a visit. Most reader? of Scott will remember the stoiy of Grey- friars Monasteiy and of "Kirkpatrick's bloody work." Dumfries is the capital of Nithsdale, and its people call it ' ' The Queen of the South. " From a border hamlet

SCOTLAND. 37

of the 8th century, with a Franciscan convent and a castle, it has grown into a prosperous port and factory town. Excursions from Dumfries: — To Linclu- den Abbey, 1^ M., beautiful ruins of a 12Lh-ceutury Benedictine nuunery, and a favorite resort of Burns. Ainid this sylvan beauty he composed his " Vision of Libertie." — To New or Sweetheart Abbey, a lovely Gothic ruin, 7 M. S. The Lady Devorgilla, who built the abbey (for Cistercians), in 1284, em- balmed the heart (whence the name) of her husband, John Balliol, and had it built in over the high altar. Devorgilla also erected in Dumfries the monastery for Franciscan friars, before whose altar Robert the Bruce slew the Red Comyn; and the old bridge across the Nith.— To Terregles (3 M.) and Trongray (5 M.), in whose ch.-yard is a handsome monument erected by Scott to the memory of Helen Walker ( Jeannie Deans). Irongray is the scene of "The Recreations of a Country Parson." — To Ellisland farm, where Burns wrote " Tarn O'Shanter" and the beautiful ode " To Mary in Heaven." 13 M. from Dumfries is the extraordin- ary architectural pile of *Drumlanrig Castle, built by William, first Duke of Queensberry, who wasted princely sums on it. Torthorwald Castle is a massive ruin, 4 M. from Dundee. Caerlaverock Castle (9 M.) is a grand old fortress on tlie Solway Firth, de- scribed in " Guy Mannering." Lochmaben, Ruthwell, and venerable Kirkcudbright (near Dundrennan Abbey and St. Mary's Isle) may also be visited. Tourists who wish to view the extreme S, coast of Scotland should go to Stranraer from Dumfries (G9 IM.); and from Stranraer by rail to Ayr and Glasgo .( Tliose who would make only a short stop at Dumfries should buy a ticket from Carlisle to Mauchline (81| M. ; fares, 13s. 8d., 10s. 3d., 6s. 9id.) At Mauchline {Loudoun

58 AYR. - ALLOWAY.

Arms Hotel) everything speaks of Burns; his farm of Mossgiel is 1^ M. N. ; there he was married to Jean Armour; there his plough turne'd up the mouse's nest. In Mauchline is " Poosie Nansie's" cottage, cele- brated for the meeting of the ' ' Jolly Beggars. " If you have time, walk through woods and fields from Mauch- line to Montgomerie, There stands the pretty man- sion where once "Highland Mary" lived as an humble dairymaid. From Mauchline a branch line, 11 M. long, leads to Ayr {Station; King's Arms; Dalblair)^ to which many pilgrims go to pay homage to Burns. It is on the sea-coast, at the mouth of the river Ayr. Seethe "Twa Brigs" of Burns's poem. The Auld Brig (now only a footpath) dates from the reign of Alexander III., in the 13th century; the new bridge, from 1877. A Gothic tower, 133 ft. high, containing a statue of Wallace, stands on the site of a tower in which the hero is said to have been confined. Crom- well built the fort of Ayr in 1652. But a few frag- ments remain. Take a carriage to Burns's Cottage, the Monument, and AUoway Kirk (l^hrs. ; fare, about 4s. for a party). Walk down through the long and exquisitely shaded avenue to the cottage. In this rude home the poet was born, Jan. 25, 1759. One room has been transformed into a kind of museum, and there some of the poet's original MSS. may be seen. Not far beyond is Alioway Kirk,roofless and desolate. The walls are in a fair state of preservation, and the bell remains; but the woodwork has been all used up for memorials. New Alioway Ch. is on the other side of the road. There is little to see in the ' ' auld haunted kirk," so go on to the bridge over the "Bonny Doon," built since Burns's time; up stream you will see the "Auld Brig" immortalized in "Tam o' Shan- ter." An excursion along the Beautiful Doon in the

SCOTLAND. 69

summer-time is most delightful. The Burns Monu.

ment stands near the new bridge. See, on tiie ground- floor, memorials of the poet, and the Bible whicli he gave to " Highland Mary." Good view from upper part of monument. Note the statues of Tarn O'Slian- ter and Souter Johnnie, in a grotto on S. N. E. of Ayr lies a country in which Burns laid the scene of many poems. It is accessible only by rural teams or on foot. 3fL Oliphant, where Burns lived when a child, and Tarbolton, where he passed his early manhood, and where he wrote " John Barleycorn," *' Now, whistling wdnds," etc., are but a few miles from Alio way.

A rly. ruiis S. from Ayr to Maybole (9 M.), the old capital of Carrick, and the scene of Scott's "Ayr- shire Tragedy," near which are the rich ruins of CrosH' raguel Abbey (founded about 1240) and Bunure Castle ; also the splendid Cidzean Castle, where the Earls of Cassilis have held court for centuries, on cliffs over the sea. 7 M, S. of Maybole are the ruins of Tum- berrif Castle, made famous by Bobert Bruce and Wal- ter Scott. 22 M. by rail from Ayr is Giroan, 10 M. off shore from which Ailsa Craig rises from the sea, 1,100 ft. high, and 2 M. around. The rly. runs farther S. to Portpatrick ; Stranraer ; Glenluce, near the ruins of Luce Abbey (founded 1190) and Soulseat Abbey; picturesque little Wigtown, near Baldoon Castle, the scene of ocott's " Bride of Laramermoor ; " and otlier laoalities famous in the chronicles of the borders and the sea, — the Bruce, the Wallace, and the Cove- nanters.

Ayr can be visited from Glasgow (40 M.) in an after, noon. (Fares, 5s., 4s., 3s.) Leaving Ayr' for Glas- gow, in 6^ M. the train reaches Troon, the chief sea- port and summer-resort of Ayrshire, 3 M. from the

60 Paisley. — Glasgow.

great rums of Dmidonald Castle, the home of tiie founder of the Stuart dynasty; a branch Hue runs (9 M.) to Kilmarnock, where Eurns's poems were first pubUslied. Beyond Troon, the Glasgow train passes Irvine, where the poet Montgomery w-as born, where Burns lived for a time, and where Robert Bruce sur-= rendered to the English army under Percy. 3| M. farther on is Kilwinning, wJLh the ruins of an ancient priory, famous in Masonic annals; and also the impos- ing Eglinton Castle, the seat of the Mon^o-oTripries.

Paisley {Neiv Globe; County) contains a magnifi- cent Town Hall ; a jail, which looks like a palace; a museum of local antiquities and relics ; and the Abbey Church, founded in 1169. In the Reformation, Paisley was noted for its intense devotion to the Catholic re^ ligiou. The chapel of the abbey contains a "sound- ing aisle," so called from its remarkable echo. The nave, which remains entire, is used as a parish ch. Paisley (once a Roman fortress) was of no importance until the last century ; but noM^ its trade includes weav- ing, shawls, and thread-making (the establishments of Coats, and Clark & Co. are the largest of their kind in the world). " Christopher North " was born here. Not far from Paisley is the farm of Moorhouse, where Robert Pollok, author of "The Course of Tnue," was born, in 1798. See Crookdon Canfle, where Queen Mary was betrothed to Daruley, haif-w^ay between Paisley and

Glasgow^.

(Hotels: St Enocl^'s; Windsor,- Grand: N. Britisli; Victoria; Central). The Amori'-^an tourist will find a vast (leal. to occupy his attention in this, the second city in population and commercial importance in Great Britain. A small Roman colony once occupied this

BCOTLA^r). ^^

«itt. About the year 560 St. Mungo founded a religious house here, and the village was nurtured by the Church for a thousand years. At the Rt. formation GUiscow had but 4,000 inhabitants, and in 1708 it had 12,776. But towards the end of the 18th century it began to increase enormously •, and in 1901 the population was 760.000. The im- portal ion of tobacco from Virginia and Mary* land was long one of the chief branches of industry. To-day, this town, 60 M. from the sea, rivals Liv- erpool in shipping, Manchester in cotton-spinning, Newcastle in coal, the Thames and the Tyne in iron ship-building, and Wolverhajnpton in iron furnaces. The perseverance of the Scotch in converting the Clyde into a vast harbor, cannot be too much admired. Glas- gow was the first city in Europe to possess a regular line of steamboats. In 1812-18 steam-packets crossed the Irish Straits between Greenock and Belfast. It was in Glasgow that James Watt perfected his famous invention. In 1718 the first ship, a little craft of 60 tons, left Glasgow for the New World. The statistics show that 13,071 ships (6,662,501 tons) entered or left the port in 1880. The commercial fleet of Glasgow , was 1,0S8 ships and 532 steamers. The movement of I Greenock was 7,890 ships (1,943,200 tons). .

Walk down to the splendid Glasgow Bridge, from which there is a fine view of the * Broomielaw, or j Harbor, on which more than £2,000,000 has been I spent. The Broomielaw is 400 ft. vv^ide, and extends down the stream for 1^ M., walled on either side by su- perb ranges of docks, along Mdiich ships are laid three jor four deep, ^rom the Bridge upstream a good view of the Custom House on tlie N. bank is commanded. iTlie works on the Clyde have cost £8,500,000, <)X

62 GLASGOW.

$42,500,000. In 1760 James Watt reported a maxi. mum depth of water at the Broomielaw of 3 ft. 3 in. Now, as the result of the constant di-edging, vessels drawing 23 ft. of water enter freely. Glasgow is in the famous Lanarkshire black district, M'hich has great coal-field, rich also in seams of ironstone. There are so many blast furnaces here that the sky to the S and S. E. is lighted up nightly with their glow as if by a great conflagration.

The E. "section of the city includes the main business part, and the objects of antiquarian interest. The W, is the section for residences of the fashionable people \ and on the S. are the great public works. Buchanan St. is handsomely built, and contains the finest shops and offices. Argyle-St., 3 M. long (including Trongat^ and Gallowgate), is the main thoroughfare. George-St is an avenue extending the whole length of tlie citj and passing through George Square. This is a cen tral point, and lies close to the two ])nncipal rly. stats In the centre stands the Scott Monument, a fluted coll umn surmounted by a gigantic statue. On the E. and W. are equestrian bronze statues of Queen Yictoricj and the Prince Consort. There are also figures oj James Watt, by Chantrey ; the exquisite statue of Si John -Moore (a native of Glasgow), by Elaxman ; on* of Di - Livingstone, the traveller ; and others to Camp bell the poet, Sir Robert Peel, Robert Burns, Lor( Clyde, and Dr. Graham. On the S. is the Genera Tout-Office, plain but spacious; and on the E. is the nev municipal buildings. The Bank of Scotland and th Merchants' House occupy the W. side. The Roya Exchange is in the Corinthian style, with rich colon nades. Strangers are admitted to the news-room, 18'| ft. long by 60 ft. broad, with a noble arched rool See Uutcheaonh Hospital. Corinthian buildings with ,

SCOTLAND. 63

high tower, founded in 1641 by two brothers ; and also in Ingram Street the old Glasgow Assembly Booms; also St. David's Ch. and tlie Mitchell Library. In Arr/i/le-St., at the so-called Cross of Glasgow, whence High-St., Gallowgate, London-St., and Salt market di- verge, stands an equestrian statue of William III. At the corner of the High-St. and Trongate formerly stood the old Court House, in front of which crirahials were executed, and the ancient jail, of which Walter Scott speaks. See the Cross Steeple, a relic of the old municipal splendor. The ancient Saltmarket, Princes- St., and Kings-St., and the adjacent closes and wynds, on Saturday evenings afford scenes of violence and brutality among the lower classes. Walk up High-St. OR the E. side from the Trongate to the Cathedral. See old Glasgow College (built 1632-52, in quaint and gloomy monastic forms), now a rly. stat. Opposite, at the corner of High and College Sts., is the house in which Thomas Campbell lived as a student. Farther on is the place called the Bell of the Brae, where, in 1300, Wallace and his Scots defeated thrice their num- ber of Englishmen, and Wallace clove Lord Percy's head in twain ; and a little beyond this is the homely Barony Ch., once in charge of Dr. Norman MacLeod. The Cathedral is famous as one of the two Catholic chs. spared in Scotland by the fury of the Reformation. The Presbyterian ministers prevailed on the magis- trates in 1579 to have it torn down ; but tlie corpora- tions of the city rose in arms, and prevented it. Two stone "idols" were taken out of their nooks and broken to pieces, as Scott has told us, " and the auld Kirk stood as crouse as a cat when the flaes are kaimed oH her, and a'body was alike pleased." (Admittance daily, except Sun., 10-6 ; Tues. and Tlmrs., 2d.) Th.s noble structure is dedicated to St. Kentigern, or St. Mango,

M GLASGOW CATHEDRAL.

the founder of the sec ut' Glasgow, who was buried on the E. end of the cathedral-site. The edifice is pic- turesquely located ; and above it, on terraces almost oriental in their construction, arises the Necropolis, the finest cemetery in the city, with rich shrubber- ies and crowds of monuments ; approached from the cathedral by the Bridge of Sighs. The arrangement of the monuments is very remarkable, and forms a noble background to the ancient cathedral. The most noted monuments are those of John Knox the He- former, Dr. William Black, Rev. Dr. Dick, and Major Monteith. Climbing to the summit one overlooks the Vast city, with its enormous ranges of buildings, and its forests of chimneys, and of masts along the Clyde, and the blue hills of Lanark, Renfrew, and Argyll. The original cathedral was founded in the reign of David I., In 1136. Murdo, the famous architect, built it; and the inscription on his tomb alludes with pride to the fact. The cathedral is 319 ft. long and 63 ft. wide. The W. door is rich and beautiful. Its general design is French, but the mouldings and details are English, The interior contains 147 pillars, and many of the 159 windows are of very beautiful workmanship. The en- ,trance is by a door in the S. aisle. Before the Refor- mation, the cli. was divided into two parts, and service was held in each. Eor interesting details, see Eergus- %Qi\'^ Architecture. The ^ Crypt is unique in beauty, and is certainly one of the most perfect pieces of archi- tecture in Britain. It is supported by 65 pillars (18 ft. high), seme of which are 18 ft in circumference ; and illuminated from 41 windows. The piers and groin- ings are of exquisitely beautiful and varied designs. In the centre stands the shrine of St. Mungo. At the S. E. corner is St. Mungo's Well. See also the tomb of Edward Irricg, who died at Glasgow in 1834:.

SCOTLAND. 65

tn "Rob Roy" there is an interesting description of this crypt. Other things to note are the ' stained- glass windows, executed in Munich, for £100,000 (ex- planations of the windows, 2d.) ; the Dripping Aide, so called from the perpetual dripping of water from the roof; the Choir, locally known as the High Ch.,noyf ased as one of the city chs. ; magnificent organ here ; behind it, the chapel and the chapter-house. The curi^ ous old ch.-yard is literally paved with stone slabs, with inscriptions to the memory of local notables.

The new University, the most imposing modern edifice in Scotland, is approached through West End Park : take the footpath from the bridge over the Kelvin. From the platform, good view. The Univer- sity has a frontage of 600 ft., with fine central tower^ 310 ft, high. The architect was the late Sir G. Gilbert Scott. In general style the buildings are Early Eng- lish. ^ The buildings will have cost £500,000. The- museum, rich in mineralogy, geology, and natural his- tory, is open daily, 10-3 (admission, 6d.). In the Hunterian Library, valuable series of early printed books. The University was founded about 1450 by Bishop Turnbull. In 15 GO Queen Mary endowed it with a moiety of the confiscated Church property in the- city. Its renown as a seat of learning culminated in the last century. Gullen and Black, Hunter and Reid,, Adam Smith and Watt, are among the great names asso- ciated with it. Near by is the Botanical Garden. The Corporation Galleries of Art have valuable collections' of paintings (by Claude, Cuyp, Teniers, Murillo, etc.) ; also a marble statue of Pitt, by Elaxman, and por- traits of the English kings. Galleries open daily, Sun- days excepted. See 8t. Andreic's Palace and the Kelmn Grove Park and Museum. The park contains- a fountain commemorating the introduction of water

5

66 DUMBAKTON CASTLE.

from Loch Katrine. In Kelvin Grove is the Inaustrial Museum. ' Near the University is the New Western Injirmary. The beautiful squares and terraces in the W. contain tlie homes of the rich merchants, the "to- bacco lords," and the great ship-builders.

Grlasgow Green is a park extending 1 M. along the Cl,yde, adorned with an obelisk to Lord Nelson, and the scene of very remarkable open-air preaching on summer Sunday evenings. Li this park Prince Charles Edward reviewed his army in 1745 ; and here, also, Watt was strolling when the central idea of the steam-engine occurred to him. To the S. of Queen's Fark is the village of Langdde, where Queen Mary met with her final defeat, in 1568. A memorial stone marks the spot wlience Mary witnessed the battle.

Excursions around Glasgovr. — To Greenock, by the river ; past the suburb of Govan and the ship- yards of Messrs. Napier, etc. ; the old royal burgh of Renfrew, near which SomerleJ, Thane of Argyll, was defeated and slain in 1164 ; Erskine Eerry, Mdiere the Earl of Argyll was captured, in 1685, in the disguise of a peasant ; Dalnottar and the craggy Kilpatrick Hills ; Bowling, near the high ruins of Dunglas Castle and the end of Antoninus's wall ; and Dunglaspoint, with its monument to Henry Bell, who first introduced steam navigation on the Clyde. Dumbarton Castle, at the junction of the Leven (Loch Lomond's outlet) and Clyde, is on a rock measuring 1 M. around and 560 ft. high. Part of it bears the name of Wallace's Tower. The Scottish hero was imprisoned there ; and his huge two-handed sword is still shown. There is a tradition that Satan threw Dumbarton Rock at St. Patrick. The castle is one of four garrisoned in Scot- land by the British army, and commands the Clyde with batterie*.. It was the capital of a Roman province.

SCOTLAND. 67

and afterwards repelled the Norwegian Vikings. It was held by Robert Bruce in 1309; and in 1571 Capt. Crawford carried it by escalade, at night. In 1653 it was taken by Cromwell's troops. At the portculis may be seen carven heads of Wallace, and Menteith, his betrayer. At the summit the remains of a Roman fort are shown. Queen Mary spent some time here. 2 M. from Dumbarton is the village of Cardross, where stood the old castle in which King Robert Bruce died, in 1329. Greenock {Tontine Hotel; White Hart; Royal; rail, from Glasgow, Is. 6d. ; population, 80,000) is one of the chief sea- ports of Great Britain, and very picturesquely situ- ated. Vast new docks are being built. The ship- yards are among the largest on the Clyde. The ocean steamers for New York take their passengers and mails at the Tail of the Bank. Fine view, from the shore, of the mts. of Argyllshire and Dumbarton- shire. Burns's "Highland Mary" is buried in the old kirkyard. There is a beautiful statue of James Watt, by Chantrey, in a memorial building in Union- St. Travellers going to Oban and Inveraray should take steamer at Greenock. Nearly opposite is Helensburgh (Queen's Hotel; Imperial), a pretty town, much frequented in summer by pleasure- seekers. The Crareloch is the name of a fine sea- basin (steamers ply on it), which stretches N. from Helensburgh for about 7^ M. Its shores are covered with beautiful villas, Roseneath, Ardincaple Castle, etc. The famous Glen Fruin lies on the E.

Another good excursion can be made in one day by Caledonian Rly. to Hamilton, passing throughi^^^^^er- glen, a royal burgh as early as 1126, Hamilton {County Hotel; Clydesdale) contains many interest- ing historical places. See site of King's Head, where Cromwell lodged during his foray into Scotland; and

68 HAMILTON PALACE. — LANARK.

the old Steeple and PiJhn/, built in tlie reign of Cimrles I. Ham.ilton Palace, seat of tlie Duke of Hamilton and Brandon, stands in a beautiful park ; 2 M. S. E. are the ruins of Cadzoic Castle. On Both- well Bridge, 2 M. !N. of Hamilton, a famous encoun- ter between the Covenanters and the Royal forces took place in 1679. A little berond is Bothicell, noted for its old ch.. "vrhere Robert, Duke of Rolhesav, was married. Both-well Castle (admission, Tues. and Fri., 10-3 : see local guide-books) is on the r. bank of the Clyde, 1 M. from the Tillage. The ruins afford an almost perfect example of Nonnan architecture. See the circular towers ; remains of tlie chapel, with shafted windows : and a circular dungeon called Wal- lace's Beef-barrel. The walls are covered with ivy and ^'^ild roses. The walk between Hamilton and Bothwell is extremely interesting.

Lanark {Clydesdale Hotet) was th«. scene of many of TTallace's exploits. There is a statue of him at the palish ch. Corra Linn is \\ ]\I. S., a beautiful fall of 85 ft. ; and the pretty Bonnington Linn is \ .M. beyond. Stonehyres Linn, is 2i M. N. of Lanark, near the Cartland Crags. Tickets must be obtained.

The Scottish Highlands.

A Tx.ound Trip from Glasgow to Gtasgoxc by icaj/ of Loch Lomond, Loch Katrine, the Trossachs, and Callander ^, from Callander to Ohan : with E.rcnrsions from Oban ro Stajf'a, lona, and Invert! ess ; andfrotn Oban to Glasgoic, by the Crinan Canal and Rothesay.

We recommend this route as giving a wide survey of typical Scotch mt., lake, and coast scenery, within a brief period and at small cost. The trip' through the lochs and the Trossachs to CaHander besi'^ at the

SCOTLA>'D.

Qaeen-St. stat. in Glasgow, at T.40 a-M. B«y tt ■::;ket for IiiTersiiaid, the p:>iiit at whiea Ixj^ho- - - 1 is left rfare. 9<.'3»1.), and prcKjeed by train to Ij.^^..^-K (20 M.}. The roate passes Dambarton. and rives a good view of Wallace's Seat: throag-h the vallev where, in the parish of Cardr-oss Smoliett, the historian and novelist, was bom: and up the glen of the Leven's transparent water. At Baiiocfa. the- tram. stops close to the steamer.

LrOch Lomond is certainly very beantifol when. the sunlight plays iip''>n the water and on tne guard- hua. mts. It is about 23 31. long, arnl, at its S. end^ 5 M. broad- Under the base of Ben Loaionditis 120 fathoms deep. The area covered by water i* 20^0»>O acres ; 32 islands are scattered over the laker- bearing ruins of ancient mnnasteries and castles. 3Eost of these belong to the Dnke of ilontrose. wlio nses In^hmurrm. the largest, as a deer-park. " Loc-h. Lomond.~ says Ba^ideley. "has neither the match- less depth and delic-acy of coloring which character- ises the foot of Loch Katrine, nor the wild grandeur of Loch Coroisk. njr. in taimess let ns adi the dignity of LoehMaree; bt^ . . . it blends to- gether in one scene a greater Tariety of the elements which we admire in lake sc-enery than aay other Scottish loeh.'*' The steamer leaves Balloeh Castle^ o» ther. ; passes to the r of Inehmurrin. with its- mined Casfle, said calls Srst at Balmaha. Xear b^ is InekcaiUoeh, the " Island of Women '' (so called. 'ecarise a nnnnery once existed there). It is the^ . "irying-place of the ilicgregors. The next iandint;- ' lac-e is Lnss, on the L ; a pictaresque little village, ^th a g(X>d hotel. Fine Tiew of the lake from. Stone Brae hiil As boat mores X., the great mass of Ben Lomcmd comes fnlly into view. Rrneardennan, on :., has a hotel. Here is best starting-point for the-

70 BEN LOMOND. — TARBET.

ascent of Ben Lomond, 3,192 ft. high, and the favor, ite chmb ni Scotland. The rough pony-track begins opposite the hotel, and chmbs over the ridge between Loch Lomond and the Loch-ard valley. Ascents also are made from Inversnaid and Aberfoil. In clear -weather the castles of Stirling and Edinburgh, and the Firth of Forth, can be seen. Time from Rowarden- nan, 2-3 hrs. ; distance, 6 M. ; pony and guide, 8s. Opposite llowardennan is Glen Douglas (Inveruglas ■ Hotel), from which point a pretty road leads to Loch Long. Glen Douglas can be reached by feri-y across the lake. The boat moves on under the shadow of Ben Lomond, and crosses to the 1. bank, to

Tarbet affords a goocT view of Ben Lomond ; it is .charmingly situated, 8 M. from head of loch. From thence coach may be taken to Locli Long, or to In- verary by Glencroe (24 M. ; fare, 8s.). Loch Long (salt water) is separated from Loch Lomond by a well- wooded isUnnus. Glencroe is a wild mt. pass, 860 ft. high. From here the road to Liverary turns N., and skirts the upper edge of Loch Fyne. Inverary {^Argyll Arms ; George) is a small town celebrated as the Highland headquarters of the Duke of Argyll (the MacCallum Mor). Inverary Castle, the ducal residence, is an ugly building in the midst of beautiful grounds. This point may be reached by other routes from Glasgow, especially by the steamer Lord of the {des (fares, 7s. 6d., 6s., 5s.).

From Tarbet cross Loch Lomond to Inversnaid, where coaches are taken for Loch Katrine. The head of Loch Lomond is 3 M. above. I M. above is Rob Roy's Cave, a narrow opening in tlie bank near the water's edge, where it is said that Rob Roy kept his prisoners. Ardlui is the last town on the lake ; eoacheS to Crianlarich (9 M.), whence rly. to Oban.

SCOTLAND. 71

Inversnaid lias a comfortable iiotel. The^ is a scramble for places on the coaches for Loch Katrine ; and the canny Scot exacts 2d. pier dues from each person. The Inversnaid Waterfall is where Wordsworth met the " Higliland Girl," of w^'om he saug so sweetly. Opposite Inversuaid is Inveruglas Isle, on which are the ruins of an ancient castle of the Macfarlanes. The road to Loch Katrine (5 M.) lies over a very steep hill, by the hovels pointed out as the former homes of Rob Roy and Helen Macgregor; the Fort of Invers- naid, erected to clieck the depredations of Rob Roy's band, — Gen. Wolfe was once quartered there; and Loch Arklef, half-way to Stronachlachar Pier, on a bay near the W, end of Loch Katrine, At the hotel here a good lunch can be obtained.

Loch Katrine (or Cateran, " Robbers' Lake ") is Glasgow's reservoir. The water drunk by the 750,000 people gathered on the banks of the Clyde is conveyed from this lovely basin for 34 M, The aqueduct re- quired the building of 70 tunnels, and cost £1,500,000,

A Lilliputian steamer (fare, 2s. 6d.) carries you past Ellen's Isle (see "The Lady of the Lake "), the Silver Strand, and the Goblin s Cave ; and affords glimpses of " huge Ben Venue." The loch is 8 M. long, and averages | M. wide. To be seen to advantage, it must have plenty of sunshine, and then it seems " one bur- nished sheet of living gold."

You land where all the beauties of the lake are concentrated. If you can, by all means walk up through the gorge to the Trossachs Hoiel (1 M.). The Trossachs, the "bristling country," gains in loveli- ness in a rainy day. There is something weird in a ride through this leafy glen, witli the rain rustling in the trees. The gorge extends from Loch Katrine to Loch Achray, between the range of Ben A'an, on the

73 LOCH ACHRAY.— LOCH VENNACHAl.

r. (1,500 ft.), and Ben Venue (2,393 ft.) on the 1. In this labyrinth of rocks and mounds, of oak and rowan and birch, of crag and grove and tarn, the most pro- saic traveller may well become enthusiastic. Walter Scott's poems are good companions here. In Scott's early days there was no road through this pass. The Trossachs Hotel is a pretty (and dear) house. Excur- sions thence to Ben Venue and Ben A'an and the Pass of Beal-nam-bo. By the Aberfoyle coach from the Trossachs you have finer view but you miss the Brig o' Turk and much else of great interest.

Distances hy Road. — Loch Katrine to Trossachs Hotel, 1 M.; Loch Achray, 2i; Brig o' Turk, 3i: Loch Vennachar, 4-^; Coilantogle Ford, 7; Callander, 9|-, Loch Achray is noticeable for its tranquil beauty. It is 8 M. long, and the shores are clad with copse to the very water's edge. "The Lady of the Lake " will be found the best guide here. You next reach the^W^o' Turk, where, m the famous chase, as Sir Walter informs us, "the headmost horseman rode alone." Near this bridge over Achray Water is the blackened ruin of the New Trossachs Hotel. Fine view of Ben Venue from here. Next comes the Dun- craggan Huts; and then Loch Vennachar (4 M. long) . the " Lake of the Fair Valley." On the N. shore is Ben Ledi, the "Hill of God '"' (2,875 ft.). To climb Ben Ledi by the Pass of Leny is an admirable excursion. Here you are in the real Highland country. The hills are aglow with purple colors; the black-faced cattle with widely projecting horns look down defiantly at you from the steep pasturages; a countryman in kilt trudges by. The coaches rattle past Coilantogle Ford, "Clan -Alpine's outmost guard," where K.ode¥" ick Dhu challenged Fitz James, and bring up in Cal-

SCOTLAND. 73

Wder. Here you may take train to Stirling and Edinburgh ; but if you desire to see the real High- lands, continue on our route.

Callander {Dreadnauglit ; Hydropathic; An- caster Arms) is in the centre of a delicious country. If M. from the town are the Bracklinn Falls. A pleas- ant excursion may be made through the Pass of Leny to Strathyre, returning by train (8^ M. to walk). It is easy to climb Ben Ledi thence (3 hrs. ; pony and guide, 10s.), and stand on the sinootli green summit where the ancient Druid fires were l<ept..

From Callander to Oban. — Rly. fare, 1st class, 12s. ; time, 3-4 hrs. This line is one of the most beautiful in Scotland, and was one of the most ex- pensive. Including the harbor-works at Oban, it cost £615,000. The line crosses the Teith; skirts the base of Ben Ledi ; and traverses the Fass of Leny, which ex- tends between Callander and Loch Lubnaig. This loch is 5 M. long and 1 M. broad, and surrounded by high mts. Near the Falls of. Leni/ is the churchyard of the Chapel of St. Bride, noticed in the " Lady of the Lake." Just beyond Locli Lubnaig the rly. crosses the River Baloag, and passes Strathyre and King's* House stat., whence Batquhidder and Loch Voil can be visited (2 M.). In the graveyard of the old ivy- covered chapel of Balquhidder is the stone said to cover the grave of Rob Roy. The hamlet is intimately connected with the history of the Macgregors. The road now rises, and gives a good view of Loch Earn and Ben Vorlich, on the E. It next traverses Glen Ogle. The rly. is constructed on the side, 300-400 ft. above the lowest level. The margin of Loch Bocha.rty above which rises Ben More, is next passed; after which Crianlarich stat. (coaches to Loch Lomond) is reached, A fine stretch of Highland landscape is seen

72 LOCH ACHRAY. — LOCH VENNACHAi.

r. (1,500 ft.), and Ben Venue (2,393 ft.) on the 1. In this labyrinth of rocks and mounds, of oak and rowan and birch, of crag and grove and tarn, the most pro- saic traveller may well become enthusiastic. Walter Scott's poems are good companions here. In Scott's early days there was no road through this pass. The Trossachs Ilotelis Si 'prettj {a.nd dear) house. Excur- sions thence to Ben Venue and Ben A'an and the Pass of Beal-nam-bo. By the Aberfoyle coach from the Trossachs you have finer view but you miss the Brig o' Turk and much else of great interest.

Distances hy Road. — Loch Katrine to Trossachs Hotel, 1 M.; Loch Achray, 2i; Brig o' Turk, 3^; Loch Vennachar, 4-^ ; Coilantogle Ford, 7 ; Callander, 9|, Loch Achray is noticeable for its tranquil beauty. It is 8 M. long, and the shores are clad with copse to the very water's edge. "The Lady of the Lake " will be found the best guide here. You next reach the Brig o' Turk, where, mthe famous chase, as Sir Walter informs us, "the headmost horseman rode alone." Near this bridge over Achray Water is the blackened ruin of the New Trossachs Hotel. Fine view of Ben Venue from here. Next comes the Dun- craggan Huts; and then Loch Vennachar (4 M. long) . the " Lake of the Fair Valley." On the N. shore is Ben Ledi, the "Hill of God '"' (2,875 ft.). To climb Ben Ledi by the Pass of Leny is an admirable excursion. Here you are in the real Highland country. The hills are aglow with purple colors; the black-faced cattle with widely projecting horns look down defiantly at you from the steep pasturages; a countrym^an in kilt truHges by. The coaches rattle past Coilantogle Ford, "Clan-Alpine's outmost guard," where Bode*., ick Dhu challenged Fitz James, and bring up in Cal-

lUI.:.

aiif e!;c'- ■ to Sini'\' is fas)' ■ o'liiile, 1. ■

FroDiCd..i..-.

12s,; fe,--

ih teiiil>

LiiLf," the ii.

teacliu

VI

SCOTLAND.

75

lander. Here you may take train to Stirling and Edinburgh; but if you desire to see the real High- lands, contiuue on our route.

Callander {Breadnauglit ; Hydropathic; An- caste?' Arms) is in the centre of a delicious country. 1| M. from the town are the Bracklinn Falls. A pleas- ant excursion may be made through the Pass of Leny to Strathyre, returning by train (8| M. to wallv). It is easy to climb Ben Ledi thence (3 hrs. ; pony and guide, 10s.), and stand on the smooth green summit where the ancient Druid fires were kept..

From Callander to Oban. — Rly. fare, 1st class, 12s. ; time, 3-4 hrs. This line is one of the most beautiful in Scotland, and w^as one of the most ex- pensive. Including the harbor-works at Oban, it cost £645,000. The line crosses the Teith; skirts the base of Ben Ledi ; and traverses \\\&Fass of Leny, which ex- tends between Callander and Loch Lubnaig. This loch is 5 M. long and 1 M. broad, and surrounded by high mts. Near the Falls of. Leny is the churchyard of the Cha.pel of St. Bride, noticed in the " Lady of the Lake." Just beyond Loch Lubnaig the rly. crosses the River Baloag, and passes Strathyre and King's- House stat., whence Balquhidder and Loch Foil can be visited (2 M.). In the graveyard of the old ivy- covered chapel of Balquhidder is the stone said to cover the grave of Rob Roy. The hamlet is intimately connected with the history of the Macgregors. The road now rises, and gives a good view of Loch Earn and Ben Forlich, on the E. It next traverses Glen Ogle. The rly. is constructed on the side, 300-100 ft. above the lowest level. The margin of Loch Bocha.rty above which rises Ben More, is next passed; after which Crianlarich stat. (coaches to Loch Lomond) is reached. A fiue stretch of Highland landscape is seen

74 LOCHAWE.-OBAN.

shortly before arriving at Dalmally. Just beyond Dalraally, Loch Awe, one of the most picturesque of the Highland lakes, 22 M. in length, is reached. Near it is Be7i Cruachan (3,611 ft.); and in the lake are many islands, the largest being the Idand of the Druids. At the N. end stand the ruins of Kilchurn Castle; and in the centre of the lake, on an islet, are the ruins of the ancient castle of Ardconnel, a former seat of the Campbells. The rly. descends towards the head of Loch Awe, and crosses the Orcliy on a viaduct. From Taynuilt, on Loch Etive, a steamer may be taken, and a circular trip to Olencoe (34 M.) and Balachulish (41 M.) begun. Beyond is Connell Ferry, near the Falls of Connell. To the r. stands the ivy-mantled Ardchattan Priory, built in 1231 by the Lord of Lome, and burned during the wars of Montrose.

Oban (hotels, good, but expensive: Gt. Western; Alexandra ; Caledonian ; Station ; King's Arms ; Columhia ; Argyll ; and on the hill, the Craig-Ard) Is the most central point for excursions through this weird northern land of lochs and islands, which has always had a strange glamour of romance about it. It is also the meeting-place of southern fashionables and members of the English nobility and the re- public of letters. Oban extends along and above a pretty bay, and is the most accessible place N. of Glasgow. Vessels can anchor safely within a few yards of the shore. Dunollie Castle, 1 M. distant, nobly placed on a pedestal of rock at the N. end of the bay, and covered with ivy, was built by the Lords of Lome, and is now owned by their descend- ants, the M'Dougalls. The rocky island of Kerr era, 4 M. long, serves as a breakwater to the bay. It was here (in 1263) that Haco, King of Nor- way, met the Highland chiefs who aided him in his disastrous raid on the coast of Scotland. Here, also,

SCOTLAND. 75

A.io..c4a^^x ll, died, in 1249. The seaward view from tlie lieiglits, readied by Craigard road, is very fine, Scott made the popularity of Oban by iiis poem, " The Lord of the_ Isles," the scene of which is laid here- abouts, and in the islands on the W. Fine prome;nade along the bay. Dunstaffnage Castle, 4 M. N. E'., was the seat of the Scottish monarchs for more than 3 centuries (a. d. 300-600). There was the famous Coronation Stone, finally removed to Westminster. Admission to the castle, tree.

To Staffa and lona is a sea voyage of about 90 M, (10 lirs.). Boats leave the pier at 8 a.m. Fare, about 20s., inckiding the landings at Staffa and loua. The steamer passes on the r. Bunollie and Maiden Inland, and the Lighthouse, at the S. end of LUmore, near which is the Ladj/ Rock, where, according to tradition, a vindictive Highlander left his wife to perish by the rising tide. The boat next passes through the Sound of Mull, which separates Mull from the mainland; crosses the mouth of Loch Aline, on whose shore lived Dr. Norman MacLeod, the former editor of Good Words; calls at Tobermory, near the mansion of Alex- ander Allan, of the Allan Line ; passes the Caliack Point, whence a good view N. can generally be had as far as Skve ; and then goes S. to

The Island of Staffa, 8 M. from Mull. It is of irregular oval shape, and \\ M. around. This island and lona are owned by the Duke of Argyll. When the sea is reasonably calm, passengers are conveyed in small boats into the mouth of Fingal's Cave, 60- 70 ft. in height, supporting an entablature of 30 ft, additional. The pillars by which it is bonnded on the W. side are 36 ft. high',' on the E. only 18 ft. The length is 227 ft. The finest views are obtained througn the end of the causeway at low water. The front and

7b 10NA.-t!ALEDONlAN CANAL

sides are composed of countless ranges of columns. A shepherd and his wife were sent to Staila, to take care of the sheep; but the noice of the waveo was so dismal that they begged to be taken away 8 M. S. is lona (4 square M. in area), which was founded in the 6th century by St. (Jolumba and the Culdees, and often ravaged by the Norsemen and Danes. Visit the ruins of the Numiery of St. Mary, dating from the ]3th century ; and the ancient Cathedral ; also the great Stone Cross, the only one remaining of 360 once stand- ing on the island, but broken and thrown into the sea at the Reformation. The run back to Oban by tlie S. ■of Mull is, in fine weather, very charming. Do not

;forget plenty of wraps and waterproofs.

Another excursion, made in one day, is from Oban to Lock Etive, Glen Etice, and Glencoe, and thence to Balachulish, returning by Loch Linnhe. Time, about 10 hrs. ; fare, by rail and steamer, 25s. Another is from Oban to Ford by the Fass of Mel fort, returning by Loch Awe and the Oban Uly. This may be made

. comfortably between 9 a.m. and 5 p.m. Fares, 17s., 15s. 6d. Another is to Fort William, Ben. Nevis, and

. Banavie, interesting, but long, for vacation tourists.

The Caledonian Canal. — People who have time to go to Inverness should take steamer through the great Caledonian Canal, built 1803-47, and 60^ M. long. It was necessary to cut through only 23 M., as the sheets of fresh water which abound in the Great

' Glen of Scotland were utilized. The depth of water is about 17 ft. The steamer going N. leaves Oban at 5 P.M., and passengers sleep at Banavie {Banavie Hotel) or Fort William {Caledonian). Loch Linnhe, through which the steamers pass, is famous for beautiful scenery. Fort William was one of the keys of the Highlands, built by Gen. Monk. Note

SCOTLAND. 77

Inverlochj Castle, famous in ancient wars, near the taouth of the Lundie. Erom Fort William to Banavie is 3 M. Beyi Nevis, near here, 4,406 ft. high, is the highest mt. in Scotland. It is a vast mass of brown porphyry, cleft with glens and fissures ; and on itt crags the snow lies all summer. The view is 100 M. in diameter, including all the chief peaks of Scotland. From Bauavie, the ascent (8 M.) occupies 3^-5 hrs. ■ (descent, 1| hrs.). Glen Nevis is worth a visit. Shortly after leaving Banavie, the steamer passes (on the r.) the ruined Tor Castle. On the W. side of Loch Locliy see the ruined home of Lochiel, whose fidelity and exile are famous. Loch Lochy is 10 M. long ; and a canal, 2 M. in length, leads to Loch Oich (4 M.), the central lake of the chain, as well as the smallest and highest. On its W. shore stands Invergarry Castle, burned in the revolution of 1745 ; and near the castle is "The Well of Seven Heads," commemorating the vengeance on the murderers of the Keppochs. At Aberchalder the steamer descends 7 locks to Fort Augustus. Pas- sengers can walk down in about 1^ hrs. At Fort Augustus is the College of St. Benedict, a vast pile of buildings in the Early English Gothic style. Loch Ness, "the loch of the cataract," is 24 M. long, and has a depth of 130 fathoms. At the pier oi Foyers the steamer stops long enough to permit a visit to the beautiful Fall of Foyers (1 M. S.), "the most magnifi- cent cataract in Britain." The height of the larger fall is about 90 ft. Burns wrote a fine description of the scene. There is a charming route along the hills, between Foyers and Inverness. This is the country for pedestrian tours. At the N. base of the great peak of Mealfourvonie, are the ruins of Urquhart Castle^ oesieged in 1303 by the troops of Edward I. The guides show an arrangement in the windows for pout*

78 INVERNESS.-NAIRN.

ins: molten lead on besiegers. 8 M. from TJrqiihart, Loch Dochfou?' is entered by a narrow passage, ^ M. long ; and the steamer presently reaches Muirtown, a suburb of

Inverness {Alexa7idra; Royal; Caledonian; Station; Imiperial). This venerable capital of the Highlands is situated at the mouth of the river ISTess, where the basins of the Moray and Beauly Firths and the Glen of Scotland meet. Macbeth, Malcolm Canmore, James I., Queen Mary, Montrose, and other famous Scots are connected with its history. The new Cathedral of St. Andrew is a beautiful decorated Gothic ch. 6 M. out is the battlefield of Cuiloden, where the hopes of the House of Stuart were finally extinguished, in 1746. The cairn of stones marks the place where the battle took place ; and the large bowlder shows where the Duke of Cumberland. took up his position. An excursion may be made from Inverness to Cawdor Castle, rendered famous by Shakespeare, and a fine specimen of the old baronial strongholds. Splendid view from the battlements. Nairn, 15^ M. from Inverness, is a fashionable resort for sea-bathing. JSTear it is Aiddearn, where Mon- trose won a great battle over the Covenanters, who lost 2,000-3,000 men. The Inverness region was the scene of Hugh Miller's geological researches. Persons who have come from Oban to Inverness may go down to Edinburgh via Stirling (213|- M. ; fares, 34s. 6d., 25s. lOd., 18s.).

From Oban to Glasgow. — We return by the Crinan Canal. This charming journey may be made between 8 a.m. and 6 p.m. (fares, 13s., 7s. 6d.); and we recommend it as the l)est way back. The Chevalier, Grenadier, Columba, are mag- nificent boats, equipped on an American scale of comfort. From Oban the boats go down the Sound of Kerrera, pass Cylen Castle and

SCOTLAND. 79

ihe island of Mull, through tlie Eh-th of Lome, and the Little Easdale Sound. There are only one or two places where the boat emerges into open water, and so nothing is to be feared from sea-sickness. The route lies inside the island of Seil to Blackmill Baj, and past the mouth of Loch Craignish, leaving Shmia and Ltdng Islands on the r. At Crinan passengers are trans- ferred from the boat to a little steamer, and carried through the Crinan Canal, 9 M. long, to Loch Fyne. The canal was built (in 1801) to obviate the necessity of doubling the Mull of Kintyre, a dangerous route of 70 M. The views are pretty, and the passage of the 9 locks is curious ; the journey is well worth taking. At Ardrishaig passengers go on the Columba, a large and fine steamer. Dinner is served on board (3s.). Look well to your baggage. From Ardrishaig the boat moves down Loch Fyne to Tarbert. Good views of the peaks of Ben Cruachan on the N.^ and the Arran, (.mts. on the S. After a pleasant passage through the picturesque Kyles of Bute, a strait between Bute and the mainland, the boat touches at Rothesay {Queen''.'< Hotel; Royal; Bate Arms), a handsome town of about 8,000 inhab., the capital of the island of Bute (18 X 5 M, in area), standing by a fine bay. Here are ^ the ruins of Rothesay Castle, built before 1100; and once a royal residence. The dukedom of j Rothesay was the first conferred in Scotland. The brother of the Earl of Argyll burned the castle in 1 1685, See the ruins of the choir of the old Kirk of St. 3£ciry. Rothesay is a favorite summer resort. The ! climate is A^ery mild and genial. Consumptive invalids I have found a decided benefit at Rothesay. Hydro- jpathic establishments near the town. From Rothesay 'to Dunoon {Argyll; Crown; McColVs) is a sail of •10 M. Dunoon is one of the large watering-places on

^0 STIRLING.

the Clyde, ana the neigliborhood is picturesque. From Dunoon to Greenock, 8 M. by steamer. Passengers can save about 1 hr. by taking train from Greenock to Glasgow.

Glasgow to Stirling, Perth, Dundee, Aberdeen, and Edinburgh.

We now recommend the trt^veller to gojby rail (30 M.; fares, 5s lOd., 2s. 5d.) from Glasgow dii-ect to

Stirling {Golden Lion; Royal; Lennox), one of the most interesting towns in Scotland. It is on the river Forth ; and its Castle stands on the top of a huge rock overlooking the broad Carse of Stirling. Here Alexander I. died in 1124, and in 1304 the stout "^ortress sustained a three-months' siege by Edward L ■All the besieging implemenls in the Tower of London ■were brought up ; and it was due to one of these ter- rible engines, called "The Wolf," that the castle sur- rrendered. This was the key of the main passage Ijetween the N. and S. of Scotland. Edward II. fought the fatal battle of Bannockburn, in his endeavor to raise the siege laid to the proud castle. Edward Balliol captured it after the death of Bruce ; and King David recovered it only after a violent siege. It was a royal residence under the Stuarts. James II. and James V. were born here ; James III. built the Par- liament House ; James IV. made it his favorite resi- dence. James V. built the Palace, which occupies the S. W. portion. The sculptures are very rich and gro- tesque. A few of the original " Stirling heads " — WDoden effigies of the Scotch kings — maybe seen in the old Court-room in Broad-St. Stirling Castle was taken by Gen. Monk iu 1051, and beat off Prince Charles in 1745, In the Douglas Room the powerfiij

SCOTLAND. 81

Earl of Douglas was stabbed by Iiis sovereign. js^ Stirling Castle is now an infantry barrack. The view from the battlements is imposing. The Vale of Menteith, Ben Lomond, Ben Venue, Ben A'an, Ben Ledi, are all distinctly seen. N.-E. are the Ochil Hills; S., the Campsie Hills; and on the N., the Abbey Craig, Cambuskenneth Abbey, the Wallace Monument, and the Bridge of Allan. See the Bruce Monument ; the Bach Walk W. of the Castle Rock; the Greyfriars Ch., erected in 1494 by James IV. (James VI. was crowned there in 1567^ and John Knox preached the coronation sermon); Argyll's Lodging and Mar'' 8 Work, the most interesting of the old houses; the Town House, in Broad-St., in front of which Hamilton, the last Catholic Arch- il bishop of Scotland, was hanged in 1571; Gotvan's {Hospital; the Cemetery (many statues), S. of the !| Esplanade; the Old Bridge, near which was fought ■ij the battle of Stirling (1297), when the Scots under .jiWallace defeated the English, A carriage to the Castle costs 2s. 6d.

Excursions from Stirling. — To Cambuskenneth

Abbey (1 M.), founded in 1147, and once the richest

J abbey in Scotland. — To the Wallace Monument

(by tramway, 2d.), a tower 220 feet high, on a rock

called Abbey Crmg (580 feet). — To Lake of Me?i-

teith and beautiful Aberfoil, on the river Forth. — To

Bridge of Allan (3 M.), resorted to for the Airthrey

chalybeate water, Dunblane (Stirli?ig A?'m.s), near

by, is celebrated for the Cathedral of St, Blane, a

m good specimen of Gothic architecture. It was rebuilt

in 1240, and shattered by the Reformers in 1559.

^Battlefield of Sheriffmuir (1715) close by. Beyond.

Dunblane, is Downe Castle. — To Bannockburn,where-

Robert Bruce and 30,000 Scots defeated Edward II.

and 100,000 Englishmen, restoring the indepen-

82 PERTH. — DUNKELD.

denc€ of Scotland. — To the noble ruins of Linlithgow Palace, — a favorite seat of the kini^'s of Scotland.

Perth {Station; British; Royal George; Queen's; >S'a/w/a^«'"o?j-) may be visited from Stirling (69 M.; fares, 5=;. GiL, 4s. 2d., 2s. 9d.) A supeibly situated city, •of 30,000 inliab., with monuments to Scott and Prince Albert, and a liandsome new Anglican cathedral. In the quaint Ch. of St. John, John Knox preached. The North Inch and South Inch, by the side of the Tay, are the parks of the city, and were the scene of the battle described in The Fair Maid of Perth. When Agricola •established Roman camps hereabouts, Perth was al- ready a town ; aud from the overthrow of the Picts until 1437 (600 years) it was the capital of Scotland. In 1210 it became a royal burgh ; in 1310 Robert Bruce stormed its walls ; and in 1437 James I. was murdered here. An old house in Curfew Row is be- lieved to be that described by Scott as the home of the " Pair Maid." Bcone Palace, on the site of the famous old Aljbey of Scone, in which the Scottish kings were crowned, is 2^ M. N.

The Highland Rly., which extends 144 M. from Perth to Inverness, and 161 M. from Inverness to Wick, passes througli some of the loveliest scenery in Scotland. Dunkeld {Birnam; Royal), on this line, 16 M. from Perth, has a rare old cathedral, and is close to Birnam Hill. On this line also is the Pass of Killie- erankie, a remarkable bit of glen scenery. The field where Dundee's Highland clans crosiied William IIl.'s redcoats in 1689, is near by. Pitlochrie [Fishe/s Hotel) and Blair Athole {Athole Arms ; Bridge of Tilf) are the best points for excursions.

Prom Perth a trip can be made (22 M.; fares, 3s. 6d., 3s. 6d., Is. 9d.) to Dundee {Queen s Hotel ; Royal ; Royal British Hotel), the third town in Scotland in

SCOTLAND. 83

population (150,000), and the principal seat of the Brit- ish linen and jute trades. It is on the N. bank of the Tay, 12 M. from its mouth, and has a fine range of docks, covering 40 acres. See the Customs Offices, and the Ro/jal Arch ; also the Esplanade, running from 'he Craig Pier to Magdalen Point, wliere the Tai) Bridge had its N. terminus. A square tower, 150 ft, high, is all that remains of old St. Mary's Ch., founde{ by David, Earl of Huntingdon, on his return from the Crusades. Tlie Roi/al Exchange, in Albert-Square, the Albert Institute, and tlie Free Library are worth visit- ing. Within easy reach of Dundee or Perth is Brechin, with interesting ruins of a cathedral and castle, and an ancient round tower ; Montrose^ a quaint little seaport, once a royal burgh ; Bunottar Castle, towards Aber- deen, a huge ruin on a rock in the sea ; and Arbroath, a busy port, with fine ruins of an abbey founded in 1178. 15 M. S. (by rly.) is St. Andrews, a grave, neat, and picturesque port, with the oldest university in Scotland (founded 1411), and tlie Madras College. It is " a perfect Nineveh of ecclesiastical ruins," having the remains of a noble cathedral and priory, the myste- rious Tower of St. Regulus, part of the castle-palace of the primates of Scotland, a beautiful fragment of the Dominican monastery, and two fine old chs. From Dundee to Forfar (21 M.; fares, 3s. 8d., 2s. 9d., Is. 9d.) is a pleasant journey. In the Comity Hall of Forfar is preserved the Witch's Bridle, placed as a gag on the mouths of the miserable victims burned for witchcraft. Glamis Castle, 5 M. W. of Forfar, is a grand old baronial edifice, celebrated by Scott and Shakespeare, From Forfar those who have the time may go along the coast (fares, 9s. 6d., 7s. 2d., 4s. 9d.) j to Aberdeen {Imperial Hotel ; Palace ; Douglas's). Steamers to Leith aiid ^jondon ; and N. to Wick,

g4 ABERDEEN.— BALMORAL CASTLE.

Thurso, Kirkwall (the Orkneys), and Lerwick (th^ Shetlands). Aberdeen, ''the Granite City," is a finely built town of 105,000 inh. on a cluster of hills on the Dee, at its mouth. The Dee is crossed by four hand-; some bridges. Union- St., 1 M. long, with its vista of grayish white granite, is much admired. The ancient E. and W. Cks, contain some curious monuments^ and the tomb of Beattie the poet. See the statue of Prince Albert ; handsome Gothic Toivn and County Buildings; the Cross, built in 1686, and covered with medallions of the Scottish monarchs ; and the hand- some Ilarischal College (founded 1593). The docks cover 34 acres and admit the largest ships. Aberdeen clipper-ships are famous the world over. 1 M. N. lies Old Aberdeen, the site of the ancient King's College (1494), famous for exquisite wood carving, in chapel ; and the Cathedral of St. Machar. The Auld Brig o' Balgownie, celebrated by Byron in Don Juan, is ^ M. N. The Deeside Kly. runs to Ballater (43^ M. ; fares, 6s. lOd., 3s. 7id.), whence coaches to Braemar (18 M. ; fares, 5s., 4s. ; to Balmoral, 2s. 6d., 2s.); and tourists who have visited Aberdeen may return this way. Between Ballater and Braemar stands Balmo- ral Castle, the favorite residence of the late Queen. It is in the Scottish baronial style, and consists of two blocks, connected by wings. ' The property wa& bought by Prince Albert, and comprises 10,000 acres of cleared land, with 30,000 acres of deer-forest, Braemar {Invercauld Arms; Fife Arms) is in the midst of a wildly picturesque country. From this point one may push on to Olen Tilt and Blair Athole, and come down through the Killiecrankie Pass to Perth. Travellers who do not wish to visit Aberdeen, etc., can go from Dundee tc Edinburgh by Burntisland.

SCOTLAND. 85^

Edinburgh, Melrose, Abbotsford.

Many persons will content themselves, after the trip through the Trossachs, to Oban and down, with a trip from Glasgow to Stirling and Edinburgh. The direct routes between the two principal cities of Scotland av& uninteresting. Time, 1^-2;^ hrs. ; fares, by express train, 6s. 6d., 5s. Distance, 48 M. Stirling to Edinburgh, 5s. 6d., 3s. lid., 2s. 6d.).

Rdlnhurgh (Balmoral, Royal, Carlton, Old Waver- ley (temperance). Central, Douglas, Royal British; ry. hotels at the Waverley and Caledonian Stations; private hotels. Bedford and Grosvenor) is one of' the most beautiful towns in Europe ; and history and legend, uniting their charms, have made it especially fascinating to the traveller. It has 345,000 inhab. (suburbs included). It is situated in the N. part of Midlothian, nearly 2 M. from the

Firch of Forth. A large, open valley divides it iuta the Old and New Towns, the one a kind of epitome of the strange history of Scotland for the last 500 ^'"ears ; and the other a singularly handsome and well-buiit modern town. There is a striking resemblance be- tween Edinburgh and Athens ; and it was from this fact that the Scottish capital acquired its title of the " Modern Athens." A lire destroyed the town in 1537; and the oldest date on any private house is 1657. It was opposite the sloping ridge of rock, called Arthur s Seat (because King Arthur defeated . the Saxons near by), that King Edwin, who gives his name to the city, founded his "burgh" in the 7th century. For 400 years the city formed part of the Northumbrian kingdom. Early in the 11th century Lothian with its castle was added to the kingdom o£' the Scots. The city was long the favorite capital of" the Stuarts.

SQ EDINBURGH.

Princes-St. is a terrace, separated from the Old Town by a broad valley of gardens. In the E. gar- dens stands the Scott Monument (built 1840-44), the niches of which are filled with figures of the great novelist's heroes and heroines. Beneath the central canopy is a statue of Sir Walter Scott. A staircase leads to the top (200 ft.). Near by, stand bronze statues of Livingstone, Adam Black, and Prof. Wilson (f hs. North). The gardens are divided into two sections by the Mound, on which stand the beautiful classic buildings of the Itoyal Institution and the National Gallery. The former contains the National Museum of Antiquities and the Statue Gallery (free Monday, Tuesday, Wednesday and Saturday, 10-4; 6d. Thursday and Friday). In the Museum, note John Knox's Pulpit from St. Giles's Church ; the Solemn League and Covenant of 1638, signed by Montrose; the Blue Ribbon, worn by Prince Charles as Knight of the Garter; the Tor- turing Maiden ; and many Celtic and Roman anti- quities. The School of Design in this building has many pupils. The National Gallery (open daily, 10-4; 6d. fee on Thurs. and Fri.) is S.^of the Royal Institution. Here are good paintings by Van Dyck, Veronese, Watteau, Teniers, Reynolds, Hogarth, Landseer and Wilson. The annual exhibitions of the Royal Scottish Academy take place here from February to May. Flaxman's statue of Burns is here. See in W. Princes-St. Gardens statue of Allan Ramsay, the Scottish pastoral poet. Nearly opposite the University Club is a statue of the famous physician, Sir James Simpson. In the West churchyard is the grave of Thomas de Quincey. Near the Caledonian Station is Castle Terrace, on which stands the Synod Hall of the U. P. Church. Crossing the railway from the West Garden you reach the base of the Castle Boclc, and may ascend

SCOTLAND. 87

by the Wellhouse Toicer (a part of tlie first town wall, erected in 145U) to the uppermost walk.

The Castle stands on a precipitous rock about 800 ft, above tiie valle}^ accessible only from the E. side. This was an impreguable stronghold before the days of gunpowder. To-day it is an infantry barrack for 1,200 men, and has an armory containing 80,000 stand of arms. The so-called Half-Moon Battery faces to the N. E. The main approaches to the castle are by High-St. and Castle Hill. See the Stone Cross erected to Scottish soldiers who fell in the Indian mutiny. You enter the castle by crossing a drawbridge over a moat. See the State Prison, where many adherents of tb? Stuarts were confined. On the r. is the Argyll Buttery ; a little beyond, the Armory, the Prison, the Old Palace Yard, and the Crown Room (open daily, 11-8). Here are the Regalia, sometimes called the Honors of Scotland. They consist of a crown (Robert Bruce's, with which Charles II. was crowned), sceptre, sword of state (given by Pope Julius II. to James IV.), treasurers rod of office, etc. Queen Mary's Room is a small apartment in which Queen Mary gave birth to James VI. On the wall is a black-letter inscription, with the Scottish arms. On the Bomb Battery stands Mons Meg, an enormous gun made at Mons, in Bel- gium, in 1476, of thick iron bars hooped together. Erom this battery see the whole of Edinburgh and en- virons. Here is Queen Margaret's Chapel, the oldest and highest part of the castle, built about 1050, and named for Malcolm Canmore's Saxon queen. The castle has been captured by Henry II., Edward L, Bruce, Sir Wm. Douglas, and Cromwell ; and repulsed Priuce Charles's army.

High-St. was once one of the finest in Europe ; but its cjuaint old houses now compare but poorly with

88 EDINBURGHe

t^iose m the New Town. Note : Cannon-ball (fired from tlie castle in 1746j sticking in the gable of the old mansion of the Duke of Gordon; Ramsay Lane, oh the 1., where lived Kamsay the poet; the General As- semblij Hall of the Church of Scotland. It was along tlie W. Bow th'at Montrose and Argyll were conveyed in the executioner's cart to tlie Grassmarket, the place of public execution. On the 1., James's Court, where David Hume wrote part of his History of England, and where Boswell entertained Johnson in 1773, and Paoli. Burns lived in Baxter's Close, and Cromwell in Byre's Close. In Bank-St., the splendid Bank of Scotland; on the r. the County Hall, near the open space wdiere stood the old Tolbooth, called The Heart of Midlothian. The Tolbooth was the House of Parliament, the principal Court of Justice, and the prison. Midway in High-St. is St. Giles's Ch., whose tower is terminated by a huge imperial crown, visible from afar. The original ch. was built before 1350, and was the cathedral of Edinburgli. Knox minis- tered here, and here the Solemn League and Covenant was signed. The Reformers cast out 40 images of saints, and divided the building by partition;;, so that three congregations might worship therein. James VI., when about to ascend the English throne, here took leave of the citizens. In the Cryj^t are the tombs of Montrose and the Bcgent Murray. S. of St. Giles is Parliament Square. See, in the pavement here, a stone inscribed "I. K. 1572," which marks the grave of John Knox. Also, an equestrian statue of Charles II. On the S., Parliament House, a modern Italian structure, now used as courts of justice. Parliament Hall, 122 ft. long and 49 wide, is very handsome. See statues and portraits of the Scottish jurists. Near by are the Advocates'' Library and the Signet Library,

SCOTLAND. 89

The first contains 300,000 vols., and a vast collection of MSS. See here llie Mayence first edition of the Bible. On the N. E. side of St. Giles's Ch. see the Cily Cross. Opj)Obite is the Roi/al Exchange. Where High-St. is inlersccted by the N. and S. Bridges stands the Tron Church, named from a public tron, or weighing-machine. When the shopkeepers weiglied falsely they were nailed up by the ears. Farther down is John Knox s House (open Wed. and Sat., 10-4; 6d.). The interior is a labyrinth of small and low-ceiled rooms. On the outside is the inscription \ ^^ Lofe . God . uboue . al . and . j/oor . nichtbovr . as . yi . self'' Here Knox lived, — 1559-73, — • and here he died. From Knox's house to Holy rood, High-St., is called Canongate. On the 1., Canongate Tolbooth, built in 1591. Back from the street, the Ch. of the Canons, built in 1688. In the Cemetery are buried Adam Smith, Dugald Stewart, and other celebrated Scots. On the 1., Qiieensberry Rouse, an ancient ducal palace, where the poet Gay once dwelt ; now used as a house of refuge.

Holyrood Palace and Abbey was founded by King David I., who is said to have been saved from the horns of a stag, driven to bay near this spot, by a^ luminous cross in the sky. The Holy Rood, which David hitended to deposit there, was a fragment of the True Cross. The palace (fee, 6d. ; free on Sat.) was begun by Charles IV., and burned by the English in ISl-i, and again by Cromwell's soldiers in 1650. The m.o^t interesting section is Queen Marfs ApurtmentSy eiibered by a door on the N. side of the inner court. The rooms on the first floor were occupied by Darnley. In the little boudoir Rizzio was assassinated while at supper with Mary, March 9, 1566, by Darnley, Ruth- yen, and others. The guides show some dark stains

90 EDINBURGH.

ou the floor, said to be Rizzio's blood. The present palace was rebuilt in the reign of Charles II. The picture-gallery is hung with 111 hypothetical portraits of Scottish kings. The Cliapel Royal is a beautiful but ruinous fragment of the old Abbey, founded bf David. Charles I. was crowned here in 1C38. In the vaults are buried David IL, James II., James Y. and his Queen, and Lord Darnley. Just S. of Holy rood is the (Queens Park. Arthur's Seat, 822 ft. high, is behind Holyrood. A good road, the Queen s Drive, runs round it. The ascent may be made from Holy- rood by crossing the Park, or by following the drive to Dunsappie Loch, and then up from thai point. Ou the hill ar-* the ruins of St. Anthonfs Chapel. See, near the park-keeper's lodge at St. Leonard's Hill, the cottage of " Jeannie Deans."

The historic Cowgate, built in 1500, is now one of the dirtiest lanes in the Old Tow^n. It ends in the Grassmarket, near the centre of which is the Corn 'Exchange. At the head of the Cowgate stands the house in which Lord Brougham was born ; and in the ch.-yard of Greyfriars are the tombs of the historian Robertson, Allan Ramsay, and other famous men. Heriofs Hospital, a magnificent turreted quadrangle (built by Inigo Jones, 1628-50), is worth a visit. The University (session Nov -April), at the S. end of S. Bridge, was founded in 1582 by -James VI. It has one of the best medical schools in Europe. There are about 2,000 students. Library, 150,000 vols. In Drummond-St., opposite the College, stood Darnley's house, where he was blown up in 1567. Near the head of College Wynd stood the house in which Walter Scott was born. It was pulled down in 1871. Be- hind the University is the Edinburgh Museum of Science and Art. At the N, end of George IV. Brid.ye is the

SCOTLAND. 91

t'ree Public Library erected mainly through the lib- erality of Mr. Andrew Carnegie.

Crossing the Mound into the Neio Toicn, one finds the streets as wide and handsome as in the Old they are narrow and ugly. Go up Calton Hill, at tlie E. end of Princes-St., and visit Nelson'' s Monument {iae, 3d.); good view from the top. On this hill is the National Monument to the Scottisli soldiers who fell- in the Peninsular and Waterloo campaigns, — an im- finished building, copied after the Parthenon at Ath- ens ; also, the Observatory^ ; and the Dugald- Stewart Monument, copied from the Choragic Monument of Lysic.rates at Athens. Just beyond is Playf air's monu- ment. At the base of the hill i'^ the Royal High School^ an adaptation of the Temple of Theseus at Athens. To the S. is Burns' s Monument, erected in 1830. At the corner of the IST. Bridge, the Post-Offics. In the Begis^ iry Office, on the r. at the end of Princes-St., are auto- graph letters of Queen Mary, etc. See Wawrley Bridge.

Other Objects of Interest. — The Royal Bank; the liQwWaverley R. Sta.; the bronze statues of Pitt and, George IV,, by Chantrey ; St Andrew's Ch„; statue to Chalmers, the Scottish divine; the Scottish National- Memorial, erected in 1878, bas-reliefs illustrative of the Prince Consort's career ; the Edinburgh Philo- sophical Institution in Queen-St. ; the ^t?iie\y Ejiisco^jal Cathedral of St. J/rt?'?/, built by Sir Gilbert Scott ; the Dean Bridge, spRnmng the Water of Leith,106 ft. high; the Bean Cemetery, vvhere Lords Jeffrey, Cockburn^ Rutherford and Murray, and Prof. Wilson are buried; the Fettes College ; t e S. Cemetery, at the Grange, where Hugh Miller Dr. Chalmers, and Dr. Guthrie are buried ; the Royal Bank Garden; the Vfarriston Cemetery, where Alexander Smith the poet is buried.

Leith (60,000), the port of Edinburgh, is 3 M. N., reached by horse-cars and steam-cars ; trains' every 1-2 hr. There are 2 piers stretching 3,000 ft»

93 LjJilTH.-ROSLIN CHAPEL.

into the Firth of Forth. Walk down one, take ferry ^^eross to the other, and come back on it. Mary 'Queen of Scots had a brilliant reception on landing here from Calais in 1561. Huge shipbuilding yards, glass-works, and flour-mills here. Large trade in ^€orn and timber with Baltic ports. The Albert Dock -covers 14 acres. Leith Fort was built by Cromwell. W. of Leith is Newhaven {Peacock Inn, cele- brated for fish dinners, 2s. 6d.). Fishwives re- markable here for their co.>5tumes, and noted for ■their virtue.

Excursions from Edinburgh. — To Granton Pier, 2 M., stopping to visit the Royal Botanic Gardens ■(admission free). Good view of Edinburgh. Magni- ficent pier, built by the Diike of Buccleuch. At '{jranton the English troops that invaded Scotland in 1544 were landed. From the pier, steam ferry to Burntisland in Fife. — To Trinity, good bathing. — 'To Hawthornden and Roslin Chap'el. Train to Hawthornden stat. ; fares, Is., lOd., 8d. This charm- ing mansion, "grafted on an old fortified Peel lower," was built by the poet Drummond, born in 1585; and here Ben Johnson came to visit him, walk- ing all the way from London. Under the mansion are caves, inhabited by natives before huts were known. Cross the Esk and go along the romantic glen to Roslin (1^ M.), getting a fine view of the castle land chapel as you leave the ravine. Battle fought in 1302 on the Iloor near by. Roslin Chapel is the choir of an unfinished ch.5 founded in 1446. Pergusson thinks "the chapel owes its beauty entirely to the profusion of its decorations." The castle, on a mound .below, is a mere ruin. The Valley of the Esk is lovely. If you go back to Edinburgh by road, you can pass by 3Io?^7iingside, and see the stone on which James I. fixed his standard be^^^-e he set out for Flodden Field. — Dalkeith Castle, ^■"^-wbattle Abbey, Dalhonsie

SCOTLAND. 93

Castle, Borthwick Castle, Cric.hton Castle, all on or near the Esk, are well worth visiting.

All Americans should visit Melrose, Abbotsford, and Dryburgh. Take express tram (Pulliuau car attaclied) to Melrose stat. (37 M. ; 1 hr. ; fares, 7s. 5d., 5s. 7d., 3s. Id.). Hotels at Melrose: George; Abbejj ; King's Arms. Melrose Abbey was founded by David I. in 1126, and completed in 1146. The monks who dwelt there were among the first Cister- cians in Scotland. The Abbey was destroyed by Ed- ward II. in 1322, but rebuilt later uuder the patronage of King Robert Bruce. The architecture is Second Pointed, mingled with Flamboyant. The present strnc- ture dates from about 1375. The Duke of Buccleuch now owns the Abbey. Entire length of edifice, 258 ft. ; breadth of transepts, 137 ft. The Choir, the Tran- septs, the Naoe, entered by a wooden gate at the W, end, and the S. Aisle, are in best preservation. The Abbey forms a Latin cross, with a square tower, 84 ft. high, in the centre. Beside the high altar, under tlie noted E. Wiiidow, lies Alexander II. ; and here the heart of Robert Bruce is deposited. The tomb of the wizard, Michael Scott, is in the Aisle of St. Mary. Note the delicate chiselling of the outer side of the doorway leading into the cloisters. Over the S. door (outside) is a beautiful sculptured canopy, and above it a noble window. Above the E. window are figures, supposed to be David I. and his queen. Under the fifth window is Sir David Brewster's tomb. Moonlight etfects quite equal to Sir Walter's enthusiastic descrip- tion. Some prefer to go directly from Melrose to Abbotsford, and to see the Abbey on the return. A one-horse carriage to and from Abbotsford (8 M.) costs 6s. 6d. ; double team, 8s. 6d. The walk is a pleasant i one. Persons in haste can leave Edinbur<?h at 10.3^

94 ABPOTSFORu. — DRYBURGH ABBEY.

A-.M. ; reach Melrose in 1 lir. ; drive over to Abbots* , ford, see it, and return, in 2 lirs. ; give | lir. to Mel- rose Abbey ; lunch at one of the hotels near by; then take carriage to Dryburgli Abbey, see it, and return to Melrose by way of Bemerside Hill, in 2| Iirs.; after which they can take an evening train S. Abbotsford (admission, Is.) was long the home of the " Great Enchanter of the North." The author's study is the most interesting room. There the old writing-table, the plain leathern arm-chair, the reference books, seem to indicate that Sir Walter has but just left them. The Library (20,000 vols.) contains a bust of Scott, by Chantrey, and many miniatures. The roof is of carved oak, designed from models taken from Roslin Chapel. Tlie Drawing-room, where Sir Wah,er died, and the little octagonal dressing-room contain many precious relics. The Armory has a fine collection of Scotch weapons. Not far away is the Chiefswood Cottage, where the Lockharts dwelt. "Thomas the Rhymer" once lived in the neighborhood.

In Dryburgh Abbey (reached as above, or by rail from Meh-ose to Newtown St. Boswell's, and then l^ M. across country) Scott was buried (in 1832). His tomb is in the beautiful St. Marys Aisle, and on either side are the tombs of liis wife and eldest son. Lock- hart also lies there. The Abbey (admission Is) was founded in 1150 bv Hugh de Moreville, and destro^^ed, like Melrose, by Edward I. The Chapter-House is still entire. On a hill near by is an effigy of Wallace, in red sandstone.

You can now proceed S. Stop at Durham and York Edinburgh to London (9 hrs), 57s. 6d., 44s. 9d., 32s. 8d. ; Melrose to Durham, 19s. 4d., i4s. lOd., 8s. Hid.; Melrose to YorL 27s. 2d., 20s. 8d., Hs. 2|d. ; Edinburgh to York, 31s., 24s. Pullman sleeping-car, 8s,

ENGLAND. 95

ENGLAND. Newcastle, Durham, and York.

JTEWCASTLE-UPON-TYITE {Station Hotel; ■*"^ County) is a place of great industrial interest. It was Po7is Aelii, the second stat. on the Roman wall. Up to the Conquest it was called Monhcliester. New- castle is on 3 hills, on the Tyne, 9t} M. from its mouth. The Castle-keep remains, with splendid great hall, ora- tory, king's chamber, and museum of Roman antiqui- ties. See/S/f. Nicholas's Cathedral {lAth cent.), with fine spire and rare old monuinents ; St. Andreiv^s, very ancient ; the Library ; the Royal Arcade; and Stephen- son's High Level Bridge. Elsivick, 2 M. out, is the seat of Sir Wm. Armstrong's iinmense ordnance works. Tynemouth has a beautiful ruined Priory. Newcastle is enterprising, but grimy ; ' ' the dimmest and smoki- est place I ever saw," says Hawthorne. Much iron ship-building on the river. Population with suburbs, 176,000. Made in 1883 an Episcopal See.

Durham {County Hotel; Three Tuns), 15 M. from Newcastle, stands on a hill almost surrounded by the river Wear, and is noteworthy for its Cathedral and Castle. The latter was built by William the Conqueror, and is the seat of an University. The Cathedral crowns the eminence on which Durham is built. It was founded in 1093, replacing an older ch.

"We paused upon the 'brid.ge,and admired and wondered at the beauty and glory of the scene, with those vast ancient towers rising out of the green shade, and looking as if they were base'i npon it. As I saw it then, it was grand, vener- able, and sweet, all at once; and I never saw so lovely and

06 DURHAM.

magnificent a scene, nor, being content witli this, dc 1 wish to see a better." — Hawthorne.

King's Bnglisli Cathedrals speaks of the "view of the castle walls, and the towers of the enormous ct. rising close beside it, and sheer with the face of the cliff;" and, indeed, there are few bits of English scen- ery lovelier than those in old Durham on the Wear ("This river Wear, with its sylvan wildness, and yet so sweet and placable, is the best of all little rivers," says Hawthorne) ; or few chs. more majestic in the midst of a charming landscape. It contains the remains of the Venerable Bede (see some of his MSS. in the Cathedral library); those of St. Cuthbert, unearthed in 1827; tind of Ralph, Lord Nev'ile, who commanded at Ne- ville's Cross. See The Q%lilee, a splendid chapel; the 'E. Transept, or Chapel of ihe Nine Altars ; the magnifi- cent Norman Nave, with .ts unrivalled vista ; the Chap- ter-House, built 1133-4';; the Te-Beum Window; the Altar Screen, dating f/^m 1380; the Cloisters; the Abbey Gateway ; eV . Choral services twice daily. Good' views of th^ O/ihedral from the Pramwellgate Bridge and the rV. ^cat. King thinks that the cathe- drals at Lincoln iri Ely alone can be compared with this for ma'^esty and beauty. Erom St. Giles's Ch.- yard, from the Prior s .Path, and from Nine Trees, are excellent views. The Castle (fee. Is.) was long the residence of the Bishcps of the Palatinate. See the Keep, now occupied by students; the beautifal Nor- man Gallery ; the Black Staircase; the Great Rail, with its many pictures ; the tapestry in Bishop TunstalVs Gallery] and the very curious old Chapel. Pleasant walks abound. Excursions to Finchale Priory (3| M.), dating from 1496, and in a lovely vale beyond the Kepyer Woods ; to Maiden Castle, a fortress ascribed to the Roman?., and tiie Moated Granqe ; to Neville's

ENGLAND. 97

Gross, commemorating the capture of David IT. by Keville in 1346; to Chester-le-Street, 6 M., with a noble ch. built 1286, near which is Liimley Castle (Lord Scarborough), with its famous Great Hall and Bail-Room (time of Edward L), and Lamhton Castle (Earl of Durham). Erom Durham you may proceed directly to York (63 M.; fares, 8s. lOd., 7s. 5d., 5s. 6d.). But we recommend you to go (fares, 7s. 3d., 6s., 4s. 5d.) to

Ripon (JJnicorn Hotel; Crowji), a pretty city on the river Ure. It hcas been an ecclesiastical site for 12 centuries. The Cathedral was begun in 11^4, roughly used by the Scots in the Border wars, fell into ruin, and was rebuilt in the 17t]i century. It was restored by Sir G. Scott in 1862-73. The most striking point of view is the W. Front. The nave has a lofty clere- story, and an oak roof with carved bosses, and some interesting old stained glass. The library is in the old Lfidy Chapel, above the chapter-house and vestry. The Choir Screen is a splendid pile of tabernacle-work. In the N. Choir Hall was formerly placed the Shrine of St. Wilfrid. Bipon retains many odd memorials of the past. In ITigh-St. is St. Anne's Hospital, founded in Edward lY.'s reign. In Stamergate, chapel of Boman date. See the Hospital of St. Mary Magdale?se for Lej^j's, founded 1140. Fountains Abbey, 3 M. W., within the grounds o[ Studlej/ Royal (Marquess of Bipon), was established in 1133, The ruins cover more than 2 acres ; and when the abbey was complete it occupied 12 acres. Note almost perfect ch. on 1. Erom the N. transept rises a tower. There is also a great cloister, and a beautiful vaulted gallery, 300 ft. long. The Chapter-House has singular aisles, with double row of columns. Here are many tombs of the abbots. See, also, the Refectory., the Vaulted

98 HARROGATE.-YORK.

Kitchen, the Frater House. Returning to Ripon, take train to York (23 M.). On the way is Harro- gate {Prospect Hotel; Croimi; Prince of Wales), one of the most charming of English watering-places.

York (Station Hotel, large and convenient; Black Swan; Harkers York), a city of 75,000 inh., 191 M. from London (fares 27s. 6d., 21s. 3d., 15s. 8d.). York is said to have been founded 983 years b. c. In 150 A. D. it was a great Roman station, bearing the name Eboracum, with an imperial palace. Here the Emperor Severus died. Here also Constantine the Great was periiaps born, and his father Cou- stantius, died, in 307. In the Saxon era York was noted for the baptism of Edwin of Northumbria by Paulinus ; and afterwards became the favorite capital of the Danes, whose chief was defeated by Harold in 1066.

The visitor shoidd first see the City "Walls, 2| M. around, interrupted here and there by the rivers. These walls were built chiefly in Edward lll.'s time, but have been often restored since. During the siege by tiie Parliamentary forces they suffered very much. CJu the N. and S. W. they follow the old line of the Roman wall. See Micklegate Bar, a noble archway of Norman date, flanked by terraces with loopholes and battlements, and with figures of men-at-arms. Here the skulls of rebels to the Crown were formerly affixed. Close by, St. Marys Nunneri/. At Skeldergate, cross the Ouse by bridge. Beyond the ferry, the Bail Hill, on which William I. built his castle ; Walmgate and Monkgate ; an interesting Norman Bar, with Decorated upper story ; and at the Thirsk Road one may descend close to the Cathedral, or

York Minster, which Hawthorne called " the most wonderful ^vork that ever came from the hands Q&

ENGLAND. 99

men." A wooden edifice was built here by Paulinus, and replaced by a stone basilica, begun by Edwin (in 627). The first Norman bishop erected a new church, which was added to within the next four centuries. In 1360-1400 the old Norman choir was entirely replaced by the present one. The Minster was re- consecrated, July 3, 1472. The total length is 524-^ ft. ; breadth of nave, 104 ft. ; length of transepts, 322 ft. ; height of central tower, 213 ft. The W. Front consists of a central facade, flanked by two towers (201 ft.). The front, with its 3 N. towers, is Decorated. The buttresses of the towers are very massive. Between them and the portal are niches filled with figures of saints. The N. Transept is noticeable for its beautiful Five Sisters Window, below which is an Early English arcade. The octa- gonal cJiapter-liouse, with superb 14th-century win- dows ("the richest I ever saw or imagined; with all their brilliancy they were soft as rose-leaves," said Hawthorne), is the finest in England. Imposing view of the choir and central tower. Magnificent E. win- dow, and row of sculptured figures underneath the sill. The S. Trarisept is fine Early English; beauti- ful rose window here. The nave aisles are of unusual width. Beautiful view from the aisle to the end of the choir. Aisles, 486 ft. The great W. Window, restored in 1747, arouses the enthusiasm of archajo- logists, who compare it for beauty and variety with the E. window at Carlisle. The quantity and ex- quisite beauty of the stained glass will remind the old traveller of some of the Spanish churches. This glass miraculously escaped damage when Fairfax took the town in 1644. The Puritans broke up most of the monuments and brasses. Among wall monuments, note those of Archbishop Sterne, the Earl of Stafford (son of him who was beheaded), Archbishop Scrope (mentioned in Shakespeare's Henry IV.), and Arch-

iOO YORK MINSTER.

bishop Markham. Visitors should see the nave in the evening, v/heii tlie body of the church is beautifully lighted. The Central Tower is remarkable for its mas- sive piers. . 'Wx'd Lantern Tower, finished in the 15th ceu' tury, has a vaulted roof, 180 ft. from the ground. The iV. Transept has an exquisite series of lancet windows, filled with red glass. The chapter-house dates from the 14th century. " I never saw a piece of human architecture so beautiful," said Hawthorne. Doorway of treioiled arches with a shaft, having a niche, in whicli is a figure of the Virgin and the Child. Notice the old oak door, covered with scrolled iron-work. The rich stone Roodscreen, separating the choir from the nave, is in 15 compartments, each containing a statue of a king of England down to Henry VI. The choir is of vast height and width, and Hawthorne said that its pillars and arches are so perfect that "their beauty throws a gleam around them." Its heiglit is 102 ft. ; width, 99 ft. The stained glass in the clerestory/ is partly of the 14th century, partly later ; as in the choir and in the presbytery. The great E. Win.dovj is the largest in England that retains its original glazing. It was erected in 1405-8, and forms a complete epitome of the Bible. The Crypt may be visited from either the N. or the S. aisle. See first the Presfjtjtery and the Ladij Chapel. The Vestry, Record Room, Treasury, and Library (containing many MSS), may be seen if desired. The Horn of Ulphus, laid on the altar by one of the Lords of Yorkshire as a sign that he gave certain lands to the Chiirch, is in the vestry. Hawthorne says of this cathedral : "It seems to have come down from above, bringing an awful majesty and sweetness with it; and it is so light and aspiring, with all its vast columns and pointed arches, that one would hardly wonder if it should ascend back to heaven again by its mere spirituality."

ENGLAND. , 101

Other Ohjects of Interest. — Within the grounds of the Yorkshire Philosophical Society, on the Ouse (fee Is.), is St. Clary's Abbey. After the dissolution, part was changed into a royal palace. See ruins of St. Leonardos Hospital, founded by Atlielstau, and rebuilt by Stephen ; and, beyond the Hos])ital, the Midtangular Totoer, Roman below and mediaeval above. Here are many stone coffins from the Roman cemetery. Near this is 8t. Olaoe's Ch., in the graveyard of which Etty the painter lies buried. Near the river is the Museum of Antiquities, with very interesting collections. The Museum of the Philosop/ncat Society cowtixm^ a valuable geological exhibit. — The Castle, now a prison, is a massive edifice in which occurred many events in the early history of York, It was here that the massacre of the Jews by a body of nobles and citizens, indignant at the favorS shown to the Hebrews by Henry II., took place in the reign of Richard I, Over the gateway is a small Early English chapel. — All Saints' Ch., in North- St., is of great age, and contains Roman masonry and rich strained glass. See Hobj Trinity// Ch., Kings Court, St. Crux Pavement, where the Earl of Northumberland, beheaded in 1572, is buried. St. Helen Stonegate, is dedicated to the mother of Constantine, See also St. Laiorence, outside Walmgate Bar; St. Mary the Younger, Bishop Hill; and St. MichaeVs, Spurrier Gate, At the latter the ringing of the curfew bell is still kept up. The principal public buildings are : The Mansion House ; the Guildhall, with nave and aisles separated by oak pillaro, and rich stained windows ; Merchants' Hall, in Fossgate ; and St. William's Col- lege, founded in 1460 Hawthorne admired York's **old chs., gnawed like a bone by the tooth of Time.*^ Excursions from York. — To Scarborough {Croun

102 WHIT BY.-HULL— LEEDS.

Hotel; Grand; Alexandra; Prince of Wales; Royal; jPavilion): time, 1^2 hours; fare, 5s. 7d., 4s. 8(1., ■3s. 5-^d. This is a fashionable seashore resort. On a promontory are ruins of an ancient Norman castle. The Spa, the Promenade (6d.), the Aquarium, and ■Oliver'' s Mount (superb view), are reached by the Cliff Bridge. View from the Castle Rock yery fine. Near the castle is the venerable Gli. of St. Mary. (Fares from London, 35s., 26s. lid., 19s. 6d.)— To Whitby {Royal Hotel; Croum; Angel), 56iM. ; fares, 7s. 6d., ■6s. 3d., 4s. 8d. Whitby is a summer resort, with superb sea,-views. Museum and library on the W. pier. Many shops for the sale of jet. Charming drives to Rohin Hood's Bay, Mulgrave Castle, and .along the Esk dales. Scott's Mar7nion has made this region classic. Ca]5t. Cook's circumnavigating ships were built at Whitby. Here are the venerable Tuins of Wliithy Ahhey, where Hilda ruled, 658-80, and Caedmon paraphrased the Bible in Saxon verse. — To Beverley (Beverley Arms), dating from the •8th century. Beverley Minster merits close study, with its superb Percy Shrine, rich tabernacle-work. Lady Chapel, high towered fronts. St. Mary's Ch. is splendid cruciform building, with many sculptures. 8 M. distant (fares from York, 5s. 7d., 4s. 8d., 3s. 5^d.) is Hull {Royal Hotel; Victoria; Imperial), a town of 354,000 inhab., ranking as a seaport next to Loi^don and Liverpool. See the Holy Trinity Cli.; the Town Hall; the Wilherforce Column (72 ft.); St. Malay's Ch.; the Trinity House, established 1369; the ancient High- St.; the Merchants' Exchange; and the Royal Institution. — To Leeds {Queen's Hotel; Metropole; Great Northern Station), chief town in Yorkshire, wath 420, 000 inh. It is 32 M. from York (fares, 3s. 6d. , 3s. lid., 2s. l^d.) Coal and iron abound on all sides.

ENGLAND. 103

Reclus calls Leeds ' ' first in the world in the woollen business," The public buildings are magnificent. The Toivn Hall has a tower 225 ft, high, and 4 rich Cor- inthian facades. The Royal Exchange, Mixed-Cloth Hall, White-Cloth Hall (built in 1775), and t\\&_New Infirmary are all on a generous plan. Near Leeds is Kirlxstall Abbey, beautiful ruins of ch,, cloisters, and chapter-house ; Temple Neivsam, rich in paintings ; and Weetwood, noted for idyllic scenery. From Leeds it is 8 M. (time, ihr, ; fares, Is. 2d,, Is,, 9d,) to Brad- ford (Midlatid; Alexandra), world-famous for its woollens and worsted yarns. The town (280,000 inh,) is prettily situated in a narrow vale. The Town Hall, of mediaeval design, was erected in 1873, and has a campanile, and a set of chimes, said to be superior to those of Bruges, in Belgium. Saltaire, the model town built by Sir Titus Salt, is 4 M, distant. The factory covers 12 acres, and is 6 stories high. Ely. hence (7-8 M,) to Keighley Junction, whence a branch line conducts (4 M.) to Haworth {Blach Bull Inn). The village has been much altered since the time of the Brontes. The parsonage, where lived from 1820 to 1860 the father of the marvellous girls who wrote Shirley, Jane Eyre, etc., has been much changed. All the Bronte family, except Anne, are buried at Haworth. There is a tablet to their memory in the ch, ; Char- lotte's signature may be seen on the register. Many Americans make pilgrimages to this rude moorland country, hallowed by the manifestations of genius.

rianchester, Lincoln, Derby, etc.

We recommend the tourist to return to Leeds, and go thence to Manchester, 200 trains pass daily be- tween these two towns (42-|- M. ; fares, 7s., 5s, 3d.,

104 MANCHESTER.

3s. 9d.). On the way you traverse tlie Morley tunnei (2 M. long) ; and Huddersfield {Queen's Hotel; George), a handsome manufacturing town of 81,000 inhab. Near by is Kirklees Hall, on the site of the nunnery where, if we may believe the old ballads, Robin Hood was bled to death by a nun, and where the cele- brated outlaw's grave is shown. Stanedge Tunnel (3 M. long) comes next. Near Ashton-under-Lyne are 100 cotton-mills. Beyond Ashton the scenery is extremely beautiful.

Manchester {Queen'' s; Midland; Or and; Victoria; AlUoib ; G-rosvenor ; Uoyal ; Waterloo) and Salford are connected by numerous bridges. The population numbers about 800,000; and the two towns cover 9 square M. Rectus says : " Manchester was the Mancu- niam of the Romans, and in the 14th century was already known for its manufactures of stuffs, established by riemish artisans after the rehgious wars. In our time it is the 'cotton metropolis.'" The /S^^p Canal, 35^ M. long, 26ft. deep, made at a cost of £15,000,000, has converted the town into a seaport and ensured the continuance of its prosperity.

The Gothic Cathedral {\^1V) was restored in 1845-68, The celebrated Neio Free Trade Hall ^idiixA^ in Peter-St., near the scene of the " Peterloo Massacre." The large hall, in which Cobden and Bright have made many famous speeches, can hold 7,000 persons. The New Town Hall, the Royal Exchange, tiie Corn Exchange, are imposing modern structures. In front of tlie Royal Infirmary, in Piccadilly, are bronze statues of the Duke of Wellington, Sir Robert Peel, Watt, and Dalton (the chemist). Chetham. College has a fine library, Owen's College, in Oxford-St., is an elegant structure. In the Grammar School De Quincey received his early edu- cation. See the Aissize Courts, good example of Gothic architecture ; the vast County Jail; the Museum of

ENGLAND 105

JSfaturcd History; the Albert Memorial ; the John liylancTs Library.

Manchester is reached from London by the Midland Rly. (189 M.; 5 hrs. ; fares, 24s. 6d.. 20s., and 15s. 5^d.), which traverses a deUcioiis coiiatry. It is 41 M. (fares, 7s. 6d., 4s. 7d., 3s. 5d.) hence to Sheffield {Midland Hotel; Victoria; Angel; King's Head), the (leadquarters of the steel and cutlery trade of England (with suburbs, 284,500 inhab.). Sheffield is shrouded In smoke, so that one scarcely gets a glimpse of its really fine situation on a chain of hills. St. Peter's Ch., with the Shreicsbury Chapel; the Manor House, restored by the Duke of Norfolk ; the Shreicsbury Hospital; the statute of Elliott, the Corn-Law Rhymer; and the GutUrs Hall, ure the piincipal sights. From Sheffield it is 18 M. (fares, 2s. 9d., 2s. 2d., Is. 6d.) to Doncaster {Angel; Reindeer; prices high race wk.), a clean and well-built town, of Roman origin, on the Don ; noted tor its line Ch. of ISL George, and tor the famous St. Leger race, established in 1778. Near by is the grand old Conishorough Castle, described in loanhoe. It is 39 M. (fares, 5s. lid., 4s. 3d., 3s. l|d.) hence to the ancient cathedral-town of

Lincoln {^Great Northern Railway Hotel ; Sara- cen's Head ; Spread Eagle), which was at the time of the Norman Conquest one of the chief British cities. Under the Roman domination it had been one of the best of their fortified camps. In 1141 King Stephen was taken prisoner, after a battle at Lincoln by Robert, Earl of Gloucester. There the Dauphin's party was overthrown by the Earl of Pembroke, in Henry III.'s minority. The city was stormed by the Parliamentary army in 1644. The Cathedral stands on the summit of a hill, whence it can be seen for many miles around. It was founded in 1075, by Bishop Remigius of Ee- pamp ; destroyed by an earthquake, about 1200 ; and rebuilt by Bishop Piugh of Avalon, 1220-60, and dedi-

106 LINCOLN. — BOSTON.

cated to the Virgin. The* towers on the splendid W. front command a view down the vale of the Witham, as far as Boston. The length is 482 ft. ; width of W. front, 174: ft. ; height of central tower, 260 ft. Note the Norman font of Remigius; the Galilee Porch; the choir, with wonderful wood-carving and stone-vaulting; the Easter Sepulchre ; the delicately carved screens ; the lady chapel. The big bell weighs 5| tons. See the Cloisters, on the N. side, and tiieir Roman pave- ment. In the Library are many Roman ;«itiquities. Monuments to Catherine, wife of John of Gaunt, and Joan, Countess of Westmoreland, and of many old bishops and deans. Tlie greater part of the ch. is Early English ; but part of the W. front is Norman. The 'l3th century produced nothing finer than the rose- window in the N. transept. In the S. transept there is also a fine rose- window. See the sculptured angels in the Freshytery, or Angel Choir. Near by is the Bishop's Palace, founded by Bp. Hugh, which had fallen into ruins but is now rebuilt ; the Castle, erected by William tlie Conqueror (now tlie county courts) ; the Neioport, a splendid Roman ruin, and fragments of the Roman wall ; John of Gaunt's Palace / the Guildhall J and the tine old titoiiebow gate.

Boston (^Peacock Hotel) is \-l\ hrs. S. E. of Lin. cohi, and has 15,000 hihab., many antiquities, and some commerce. It is 5 M. from the sea. It was called Botolplis Town from the saint who founded a nionastery here, in 654. St. Botolph's Ch., built 1309, is the largest British parish ch. without aisles, and is 291 ft. long and 99 ft. wide, with a splendid tower^ 800 ft. high, visible from afar over ihe sea and the fens, 32 M. by rly. from Boston is Pet^rljorourjli.

Go next from Lincoln to Nottingham. Just outside of Lincoln, curious Ch. of Bracebridge All Saints. At

ENGLAND. 107

Newark {Clinton Arms; The Saracen's Hcaa) is St. Mary Magdalene, a splendid old cli., with fine brasses, stained windows, and a tall tower, sustaining- statues of the Apostles; also a venerable . ruined Castle, built in the reign of Stephen, and often besieged. Herein, died King John. Belvoir Castle, the palace of the Duke of Rutland, is near by. Newark was once fa- mous for its inns, and the Saracen''s Head existed in the time of Edward III. Sir Walter Scott makes Jeannie Deans rest there on her way from Midlothian to London. Just before reaching Nottingham, the train traverses the grounds of Colwick Hall, where Byron's "Mary Chaworth" lived.

]>J'ottingh.ani {Clarendon Hotel ; Flying Hor^e : Victoria Station: Portland ; George) stands on a rocky eminence N. of the river Trent. It is the chief place for the making of lace and hosiery in Enuhuid (230,000 inhab.). The old town is a labyrintii of n- • row and crooked streets. The Market-Flaee is an open area of 5| acres, with the Exchange at its E. end. See the N. and S. Parades ; Mortimer's Hole, a strange ex- cavation from the castle to the river; Standard Hill, wdiere King Charles I. unfurled for the first time the ro^^al flag in 1642; the Rock Holes: tlie Park; and Swinton Hermitage. St. Mary's Ck. is a grand old cruciform building. This Mas a Danish town, and "William I. erected a castle here, which was often be- sieged. The Castle, on the same lofty rock of red sandstone, Avas destroyed by the mob in 1831. It has been restored, and is occupied by the Midland Counties Art Museum. Splendid view over the Vale of Trent, to Belvoir Castle. The country round about is filled with memorials of Byron. Newstead Abbey, which he inherited when it was almost in ruins, is 11 M. N W. Go by rail to Linby stat., 9| M., and walk (ii M-^ +o

108 DiilRBY.

the house, wliich is not usually shown. An Augus- tinian abbey was founded here by Henry IT. in 1170, and fell to Sir John Byron in 1540. The grounds and forest are beautiful. The residence has been carefully restored. The ruined ch., "a glorious remnant of the Gothic pile," and the cloister, with a fountain in its centre, are very fine ; the poet's mean bedroom is kept as he lelt it. Many beautiful and art-enriched halls are shown. On the lawn is the monument to Boatswain, Byron's dog. In front of the abbey is the lake, so often mentioned in the poenis.

Here you are on the border of Sherwood Forest, with legends of Robin Hood at every turn. Robin Hood's Hill and Fountain Dale are near Newstead Ab* bey. 3 M. off is Annesley Old Hall, containing the " antique oratory " mentioned in Byron's " The Dream." Hucknall Ch., where Lord Byron, his mother, and his only daughter are buried, is \ M. from Linby. lie- turning to Nottingham, spend the night there, and take early train (15f M. : Is. 9d., Is. 6d.) to

Derby {Midland Hotel, close to station; St. James; Royal), and thence to Rowsley (fares, 2s. lid,, Is. 9^d). Derby was the Uoman stat. Derventio, and here Uichardson the novelist was born. The fine Derby spar is found near by. There are rare old monuments in the Cavendish chapel of All Saints' Ch. Derby is the entrance to tliat deliglitful region known as The Peak of Derbyshire. Those who do not wish to make detours can reach Derby or Rowsley, from Liver- pool and Manchester, by the JMidland Line. The Peak is a picturesque district, containing "that beautiful scenery of the millstone grit and mt. limestone for which the county is so pre-eminent. This scenic in- terest, however, does not arise so much from the ele- vation of the hills as from their romantic grouping and

ENGLAND. 109

the bold and varied arrangement of the dales and cloughsj which offer exquisite landscape pictures." Reach Rowsley at 9 a.m., and (leaving your baggage — ex- cept umbrella and waterproof — in the stat. cloak-room) make a bargain with a driver, and go at once to Had- don Hall, 1-| M. (1 person, 2s. 6d. ; 2-3 persons. Is. each. Bargahi for the same driver to take vou both to Haddon and Chatsworth. If lie waits, you must make special terms). Eaddon Hall, on a hill E. of the Wye, which is crossed by a pictiu-esque bridge, is an ancient seat of the Dukes of Rutland. There hved Sir George Yernon (1545), whose profuse hospitality procured him the title of " King of the Peak ; " thence fair Dorothy Yernon eloped to marry her lover. Sir John Manners ; and there, in the State Bedchamber^ are the famous tapestries illustrating Jisop's Pables, woven at the Gobelins in Paris. Yisitors are shown the Chaplain*s Moom, the Chapel, the Banqueting -Hall, the Dining-Room, with the inscription, " Drede God and honor the Kyng," over the fireplace ; the I)rau-i?7g- Room, the State and Earl's Bedchambers^ and Peverirs Toioer. Small fee to servant.

Chats-worth (3 M. from Rowsley ; 4 M. from Bake- well stat.) is the finest mansion in England. It is a favorite residence of the Duke of Devonshire, and is called the "Palace of the Peak." The old Hall was used as a fortress in the Civil War, both by forces of Xing and Parliament. The present S. front dates from 1687 ; the E. side, great hall, and staircase, from 1690 ; the N. front, from 1704. See the Conservator?/, Great Ball (67 X 20 ft.). Chapel, Grand Drawing-Room, Libraries, Dining-Room (58 X 30 ft.), Sculpture Gal- lery (103 X 30 ft.), Oratigery, Sketch Gallery (original drawings by Angelo, Raphael, Diirer, Titian, ^tc). State Apartments, Gallery of Paintitigs (Titian, Salvator

no MATLOCK BATH. — BAKE WELL.

Rosa, Tintoretto, Murillo, Holbein, etc.). State DroAV- ing-Room. Two of the state rooms are called those of Mary Queen of Scots, because she was long a prisoner there. The Arboretum, Conservatory, and Gardens (6d. to gardener) should be seen. The French Garden comes first, then the Camellia and Orchid Houses ; next a copper willow-tree ; then the vast Conservatory (276 X 13B ft.)' See the Emperor Fountain, and go out by the Italian garden. The Old Hunting Tower and Queen Mary's Bower deserve notice. Chatsworth is open daily (11-5 (Sat. 11-1). Queer old village of Edensor {Chatsworth Hotel, good) outside Park gates. In the church is the tomb of Lord Frederick Cavendish, assassinated in Dublin in 1882.

Returning to Rowsley, lunch at the Feacoch Inn, an old hostelry, with a pretty garden. (Write or telegraph ahead for rooms.) The famous Matlock Bath {New Bath Hotel) is in the romantic Matlock Dale, on the Derwent. Said Hawthorne: "I have never seen anywhere else such exquisite scenery." Rocky and foliage-clad crags rise 3u0 ft. above the ■ river, and there are many fine grottos in them. Masson hill, 1,000 ft. high, commands a grand view down the Derwent defiles. Branch line from Matlock to Buxton (/Si^. Anne's Hotel; Palace; Old Hall), 1 hr. from Manchester. Fine springs here, in the Wye valley, efficient in curing rheumatism and gout, 12 acres in public gardens. — Bakewell {Rutland Arms Inn) has a fine ch., with Vernon and Manners monuments. The rural beauty of this section is not surpassed in England. Hardivich Hall and Bolsover Castle, both in Derbyshire, are superb mansions, filled ,with art-treasures. The former may be reached from Clay-Cross stat., between Derby and Sheffield; the latter from Langwith. Burton - on - Trent is the site of vast ale breweries. We now suggest that you go from the Derbyshire district to

ENGLAND 111

Birmingham {Queen's Hoiel, at New St. station; Plough & JIarroiv; Cohdeii). Fares from Manchester to Birmingham, 12s. 6cl., 9s. 3d., 6s. ll|d.; from Rowsley, 8s. 7d., 5s. 3^d. You can leave Nottingham early, go to Rowsley, Haddon Hall, Chatsworth, and Buxton, and get to Birmingham at night, Birming» ham is the birthplace of Priestley, a centre of liberal thought, and a great manufacturing place (435,000 inhab.). Camden said of old " Bremicham " (Brum- magem ?), that ** it echoed with the noise of anvils, for tliere were a great many smiths." Almost everything that can be made of metal is fabricated at Birmingham. Visit the Elkington's Electro-Dilate Works ; Gillott's Steel Pen Works ; the Mint ; the gun-works ; the ToiDn Hall, in which are held the renowned triennial musical festivals. NeiD Corpora- tion Offices ; Free Library ; Neio Post Office; 3Iar- ket Hall ; Exchange; Birmingham and Midland In- stitute: King Edward VI.' s Free Grammar School; General Hospital; St. Martin's Ch.; Aston Hall, in the handsome Aston Park. The Botanical Gardens (Is.; on Mon., Id.) are worth notice.

Excursions may be made to (13 M.) Wolver- hampton {Star and Garter ; Talhot),the metropo- lis of the Black Conntry, which has manufacturing trade in tin and iron goods (85,000 inhab.). Things to see : St. Peter's Ch.; Queen s-Square, with eques- trian statue of Prince Albert; Lilrrary ; Theatre; Orphan Asylum. — To (29 M ) Stafiford {Northicest- em Hotel ; Swan), a well-built modern town. Izaak Walton was a native of this place. See old timber-houses, especially the JSfoah's Ark, in Crabbery-St. ; St. Mary's and St. Chad's CJis.; the Bury Ring ; Stafford Castle, ^ M. out. Leather is the chief industry. — To Kidderminster, fa- mous for the manufacture of carpets. The old ch. is a fine Gothic monument. A walk through

112 WORCESTER.-COYENTRY.

the ch.-yard commands views of the town and river Stour. In the vicinity are the Clent Hills. Richard Baxter preached here 25 years. — To Worcester {Star Hotel; Crown), nearly in the centre of England, and finely situated on an ascent from the Severn. The Foregate-St. is very handsome. The Cathedral is an elegant structure, built in 1024-1374, 394 ft. long, 78 wide, 162 high. Beautifully decorated in the lady chapel, where the roof is covered with figures painted in medallions. The fine stone pulpit in the choir is restored. See the enamelled metal cross above the choir-screen. Among the monuments is King John's, one of the most ancient in England ; statues of Bishops Wulstan, "Oswald and Hough; tomb of Prince Arthur, son of Henry V., a fine Gothic bit. The cloisters where the monks once resided are interesting. The handsome decagonal chapter-house is now used as a national school. Other public buildings: Episcopal Palace, close by the Severn; the Commandery; Edgar'' 8 Tower; the Guildhall, with royal statues; and the Hopmarhet, the most important in England.

Coventry, Kenil worth, Warwick, Stratford=on=Avon.

It is a relief to get out of the region of factories into the delightful quiet of old Coventry {Craven Arms; King's Head Hotel; Queen's Hotel). Distance from Birmingham, 18f M. ; fares, 3s. 6d., 2s. 6d., Is 7id. Coventry was formerly the third city in the kingdom. Everyone knows the story of Lady Gro- diva. An effigy, called Peeping Tom, is still exhibited at the corner of Hertf ord-St. In Richard II. 's time the city was defended by a wall, with 26 towers and 12 gates, some of which remain; but the greater

ENGLAND. 113

part of them were destroyed by Charles II. Coven- try retains much of its ancient picturesque aspect, with narrow streets, fine old gables, and half-timber liouses, and several hrs. can be profitably spent there. The " three tall spires " of which Tennyson speaks are those of St. Michael's, Trinity, and Christ Clis. SL Michael's, one of the finest Gothic structures in England, w^as founded about 1133. The charming spire, 303 ft. high, was built 1373-95. The ch. was rebuilt in 1434, and is 400 ft. long. "Most magnificent, — so old, yet enduring ; so huge, so rich," Hawthorne found it. Triniti/ Ch. is close to St. Michael's, and was once a fine specimen oi Gothic. Dugdale finds a mention of its annexation to the Benedictine Priory in 1260. Chrisi Ch. was founded by the begging ^reyfriars. The spire is the only remaining part of the old ch. ; St. John's Ch., at the N. W. end of the city, Is a fine old building, with a massive tower. St. MaTy'% Hall is a beaiitifnl edifice near St. Michael's. It 1 originally belonged to St. Catherine's Guild, and ; was built about the middle of the 14th century, I The Free School; Grey friars or Ford Hospital; ' the Workhouse, built out of the remains of the IVhitefriars Monastery (founded in 1342) ; and 'the remnants of the gates, are other objects of in- ' terest. A few fragments of the Benedictine Priory, jfounded in 1043, are left. About 4 M. out is Stone- jleigh Abbey, a place of great antiquity, held before ithe Conquest by King Edward. Henry II. granted it |to a body of Cistercian monks. The site is a lovely jljone, the Avon bathing two sides of the verdant slopes on which the old monastic house was located. There is a fine park in front ; and a road, crossing the Avon iby an elegant stone bridge, conducts to the gateway. The building b clothed with ivy, and its ponderous*

114 KENILWORTH.

oaken gates are very curious. Within the state apart- ments are many paintings by Rembrandt, Van Dyck, Holbein, Teniers, etc.

For those who have time, nothing can be more de- lightful than a leisurely tour on foot from Coventry to Kenilworth, Warwick, and Stratford-on-Avon ; going out from this region of fine old castles, lovely valleys, and beautiful fields, by Riigby, and thence either straight down to London, or to Peterboro', and Ely, making a detour to Cambridge and Oxford. For those who desire to see Kenilworth, Warwick and Stratford, and get away to London at night, there will be no other course than to take a carriage at Coventry, Leamington, Warwick, or Stratford. A beautiful trip is as follows: Go from Coventry (5 M.), by a road shaded all the way by fine elms and sycamores, to Kenilworth (King^s Arms ; Abbey ; Castle), where chief attraction is Kenilworth Castle, standing on an eminence to the W. The first buildings, in a deep hol- low overgrown by underbrush, are the base and side walls of the Gallery Tower, the S. E. end of the Tilt Yard, and originally the chief entrance to the Castle. Enter by a gate in the N. wall (ti'ifiing fee), and first arrive at Leicester' s Gatehouse, a square building of four stories, flanked at each angle with an octagonal tower, and embattled. This building is not entered by visitors, as it is a private residence. Passing on, you come directly in front of the main build- ings; and looking W. have the inner court in full view. The E. side of the square was composed of buildings erected by King Henry VIII. and Sir Robert Dudley, but is now wholly destroyed. On the r. is CcBsafs Tower, a vast keep of immense strength, with walls many feet thick. Beyond is the building called Mervyn's Tower, which all readers of Scott's novel of Kenilworth will visit. The chambers

ENGLAND. 115

sre all arcfied with stone, and it is supposed that they served as prisons in the time of Henry II. From the top may be seen on the r. the remains of the Swan Tower, which formed the N. W. angle of the outer walls built in Henry III.'s time. Adjoining Mervyn Tower, on the S., is the great Banqueting -Rail, built by John of Gaunt. The floor was supported on a stone vaulting, carried on parallel rows of pillars, the remains of which may be seen. Notice the great height of the windows, which were filled with tracery, and transomed. Beyond the Banqueting-Hall are the White Hall, the Presence Chamber, and the Privy Chamber; and still S. are the remains of Leicester's buildings, of great height and remarkable architectural beauty. The cas- tle was founded by Geoffroy de Clinton, Chamber- lain to Henry I. ; to pass presently to the crown of Henry III. It was granted to Simon de Montfort, and became the resort for the insurgent nobles. After Leicester's defeat and death, his eklest son sheltered himself in this fortress ; and there was a famous siege, in which the castle held out for 6 months. In Edward I.'s time a magnificent tournament occurred here. Edward II. lay a prisoner in the castle at one time ; and the visits of Elizabeth to Kenilworth were in 1566, 1568, and 1575. Tlie last was immortalized by Scott.

Erom Kenilworth by the highway to Warwick is about 5 M., by Leek Wool ton, a village buil^. on a rocky eminence and quite picturesque. 1 M. beyond is Blacklow Hill, where, from an opening in the trees, is seen the monument erected to mark the spot on which Piers Gaveston. Earl ot' Cornwall, was be- headed. 1^ M. from Warwick, is Gufs Cliff, the handsome country-seat of Lord Percy, and a place of religious retirement more than 4 centuries previous to the time of Earl Guy Warwick, who is supposed at this

116 WARWICK.

place to have finished his life of adventure, as a her. mit. Leland, in Henry YIII.'s time, calls this "the abode of pleasure, a place meet for the Muses." Cam- den, Dugdale, and Fuller are all equally eutlmsiastic in its praise. Guif s CciDe and Gti^s Well are s lio wr?.

Warwick ( Warwick Ai^ms ; Dale Temjperance : these houses, though comfortable, are small and apt to be crowded ; it is best to telegraph for rooms in ad- vanced is near the centre of beautiful Warwickshire, on a rocky hill, past which the Avon flows. The town is of Saxon origin, and was formerly surrounded with strong walls, of Avhich there are now but few rem- nants. The old gates are interesting ; and the Hospital, founded by the Earl of Leicester, is one of the finest specimens of half-timber buildings. It stands at ths W. end of High-St., of which its chapel, v/hich pos- sesses a very beautiful window, forms a striking orna- ment. Under the chapel is a curious vaulted passage of great antiquity, through which an entrance into the town once passed. A tower, built by Tliomas de Beau- champ, in the time of Richard II., rises above the chapel. This formed the W. gateway of the fortifi- cations. It has a richly groined ceiling. In this hos- pital a limited number of brothers are allowed. They have to wear a livery when abroad, consisting of a fine blue broadcloth gown, with a silver badge of a bear and ragged staff, Lord Leicester's device, St. Mary's is the principal ch. in Warwick. It was founded prior to the Conquest ; and contains many curious monuments, and Beauchamp Chapel, v.^hich is considered the most splen- did in England, after that of Henry VII.

"Warwick Castle, one of the noblest residences in England, is S. E. of the town, on a high rock which overlooks the Avon. Before entering the castle, walk down to the stone, bridge, from which there is a fine

ENGLAND. 117

view of the castle. The moonliglit view is striking. Enter the castle bj a huge gate, and walk up a winding way, bordered by moss-grown rock, to the outer court, formerly a vineyard, renowned for its grapes in the time of Henry lY. On the r. is Guys Tower, 128 ft. high, 30 ft. in diameter, and with walls 10 ft. thick ; and on the 1. the venerable Casars Tower, coeval with the Norman Conquest. This is connected with Guy's Tower by an embattled wall, in the centre of which is the great arched gateway, flanked by towers and suc- ceeded by a second, whose towers and battlements rise above those of the first. After passing the double gateway you are in the inner court, and see the great castle directly in front of you. When the family is absent (and it generally is), the interior is shown. The rooms shown are the Great Hall, from which a view is obtained through the state rooms, a straight line of 333 ft., terminated at the W. end by a window. Prom this great hall may also be seen, at the end of the Chapel Passage, Van Dyck's celebrated painting of Charles I. You pass through the Red Drawing -Room ; the Cedar Dratoing-Room, containing a bust by Hiram Powers, and a portrait of Charles I. by Van Dyck ; and next enter the Gilt Drawing-room, wliicli contains many old paintings. The bed and furniture in the State Bedroom belonged to Queen Anne. The tapestry in this room is very fine. The Boudoir is a veritable museum \ and the effect of the immense height, and the tree-tops, which come up to the very windows, is curious. Here are pictures bj^ Holbein, Rubens, Vandyke, etc. From thence pass through the Arm- ory Passage to a billiard-room, rich witli portraits ; a Com2M6s-Eoom, the Chapel, and the Library, in which is the famous Kenilworth buffet, made of oak grown on the Kenilworth estate. In the Breakfast

118 WARWICK CASTLE.

Rooin is a fine collection of paintings by Canaletto, w\\.Q resided for some time at the castle. (Small fee to ser« vaut who shows the apartments : for one person, 6d. or Is.; for a party of 4, 2s.) Csesar's Tower, neaily 150ft. high, has a dark and dismal dungeon beneath it, on the Avails of which are scrawls made by prisoners. Guy's To"wer, the top of which is reached by a flight of 133 steps, commands a noble view of Coventry, Kenilworth, Guy's Cliff, Leamington, and the neigh- borliood. The gardens are very fine, and on the hill of the tower are some superb cedars of Lebanon. In the Porter's Lodge are relics of the hero Guy, Hawthorne calls this " one's very idea of an old castle." From Warwick to Leamington is 2 M. A rly. runs from Lea- mington through Warwick to Stratford. (From War- wick to Stratford, 13^ M.) The most desirable route, however, is by highway, 8 M. from Warwick, past •Charlcote, the country-seat of the Lucys, to Stratford. Tills is a delightful excursion, and we recommend those who can to make it on foot, that they may linger among the beautiful sylvan scenery, and approach Stratford through the pleasant meadows. Charlcote House is off the route to Stratford, but the drivers usually take you close to it. It is a handsome mansion in th« midst of a beautiful park, well stocked with deer, the sight of which will call to mind the youthful ad- venture of Shakespeare as a poacher, and the prose- cution which decided him to render Sir Thomas Lucy immortal as Justice Shallov/. From Charlcote you pass through numerous fine bits of woodland country, and, crossing the Avon Bridge, enter

Stratford-on-Avon {Sliahespeare; Golden Lion; Red Horse; Falcon), quiet old-fashioned place, with wide, well-kept streets and many handsome mansions. The Town Mall was dedicated to the memory of the

ENGLAND. 1 1 9

poet. 'Here is a statue of Shakespeare presented by Garrick. On the pedestal see lineo from Hamlet : " Take him for all in all, we shall not loolc upon his like again." Very interesting is the Shakespeare Memorial Building a?id Theatre, which we advise you to visit first on entering the town. This memorial structure, in a charming situation by the Avon, was the outgrowth of the feeling that the poet should have a suitable monument in his native town.

From the Memorial go to Holi/ Trinity Ch., a cruci- form edifice, consisting of a nave with aisles, a transept and chancel, and a square battlemented tower, in a lovely situation by the Avon, surrounded by a ch.-yard full of tombstones, covered with quaint inscriptions. [f the doors are not open, the driver will go for the ieys. The ch. contains interesting monuments and some very quaint wood-carvings. The grave of Shake- speare rS in the floor of the chancel, covered by a plain flagstone. On the chancel-wall, near the grave, is an or- namental arch with a bust of Shakespeare, in :. thought- ful attitude. From this burial-place of genius it is but a short distance to the village of Shottery, where stands, embosomed in foliage, the pretty cottage once the resi- dence of Anne Hathaway. In this humble abode Shakespeare courted his wife. Mrs. Baker, a Lneal descendant of the Hathaways, shows the quaint inte- rior ; the oaken seat on which Shakespeare and Anne (vere wont to sit ; many bits of venerable furniture ; And, up-stairs, a vast bed, on which many a Hathaway flas drawn the last breath of life. She also shows a visitors' book, wliich contains the names of a great num- ber of eminent Englishmen and Americans (small fee^. Return to Stratford, and in Henley-St. you will find the Shakespeare House. This is a fine old half-timber building, iti >fiiich the poet was born (1564), and where

120 STRATFORD-ON-AVON.

his family long lived. It consists of 3 apartments on the ground floor, one of which is a museum; of the room in which Shakespeare was born, iip-stairs; and smaller rooms, in one of which is the celebrated Strat- iofd portrait of the bard, unlike the commonly received •pictures, but believed by many people to be more au- thentic. It was painted over in Puritan times to escape destruction. The room in which the poet was born is in its original state, except that visitors of every nation and every rank have scribbled their names on the walls and windows. The autographs of Byron, Scott, Washington Irving, George IV., the Prince of Orange, the Duke of Wellington, Tom Moore, Charles Dickens, etc., are pointed out. The house is now the property of the nation, having been purchased in 1847 by public subscription. In the museum are early edi- tions of Shakespeare's plays; the deed made in 1596, showing that John Shakespeare, the father of the poet, resided in this house ; a letter from Mr. Richard Quyney to Shakespeare in 1598, requesting a loan of £30, the only letter known to be in existence, addressed to the poet ; Shakespeare's signet ring, with the initials W. S. upon it; an old desk, said to have been his, and re- moved from the Grammar School; the Shakespeare jug, from which Garrick drank at the Jubilee in 1769 ; and a sword, whicli once belonged to Shakespeare. Autograph sentiments, written by Washington Irving, by Lucien Bonaparte, and others, are also to be seen.. Visitors register their names. The old visitors' books are most curious. The first one, beginning in 1812, may be seen at Mrs. James's, near the Town Hall, in High-St. (Admission to Shakespeare's birthplace, 6d. House open daily, 9-7.) The pilgrim should now come to New Place, where Shakespeare lived during his prosperous latter years, and where lie died C1616). It

ENGLAND. 121

Is to-day merely a well-kept lawn. The house is gone. Opposite is the Guild Chapel, founded in 1269; chancel rebuilt about 1450. In the second story of the adjacent Guild Hall is the Grammar School, where Shakespeare was one of the pupils. Visit one or both of the celebrated inns, the Red Horse and the Shakespeare; the former, where you can lunch before returning to Warwick, is a plain, unromantic- looking house, rendered interesting by the genius of Washington Irving. There Americans are shown the room where he stayed; a chair, with his name en- graved on a brass plate ; the poker with which he poked the fire, etc.

From Warwick go by rly. (2M.) to Leamington {Manor House Hotel), a famous watering-place, with sulphuretted saline springs. The most important building is the Hoyal Pump Room and Baths.

You may go directly from Warwick to London (fares, 15s. 6d., lls.lOd., 8s. 6d.; time, 3 hrs. ; distance, 97f M.). Oxford may be visited on the way; but we recommend you to go to Rugby, Peterborough, Ely, Cambridge, and ISTorthampton ; then from Bedford to Oxford and London. You will pass through

Rugby {Royal George Hotel; Eagle; Three Horse- shoes), Dickens's Mughg Junction, famous by its Grammar School, founded in 1567. Here the cele- brated Dr. Arnold was head master ; and the readers of Tom Broivn will perhaps wish to visit the school. Close by is Castle Mount, where a stronghold stood in the time of King Stephen. 1^ M. out is Bilton Hall, where Addison lived. In the garden is Ad- dison's favorite walk. After leaving Rugby you soon reach

Peterborough {Great Northern; Grand; Angel; Bull) anciently called Medeshamstede, and deriving its origin from a noted Benedictine Abbey, estab- lished in 655, shortly after the Saxons had become

122 PETERBOROUGH.

Christianized. The Danes destroyed this abbey (807^, and it was restored in 966. Then the town was named after the saint to whom it was dedicated. The abbey, when Henry VIII. dissolved the religious bodies, was one of the most magnificent in the king- dom, and was selected as the see of one of the new bishoprics. The monastic buildings suffered cruelly during the civil wars; and the cathedral itself was sadly defaced. It is said that Henry VIII. spared Peterborough Abbey because Catherine of Aragon lay buried within its enclosure. It is a noble Norman structure, 471 ft. long and 180 ft. wide. Mary, Queen of Scots, once reposed here. The cloisters are in excellent preservation. At the W. end of the cathedral is a line court, on the S. side of which a range of the old monastic structures is still erect. The W. front (built 1350), 3 vast open arches, has been called "the grandest portico in Europe." See the noble old oaken roof, the carved oaken screen, the Lady Chapel, the venerable font. Hawthorne said: *' Of all the lovely closes that I ever beheld, that of Peterborough Cathedral is the most delightful, — so quiet, so solemnly and nobly cheerful." Most of the beautiful glass and all the records in the cathedral were destroyed by Cromwell's soldiers. The E. end was burned in 1438. In the Ch. of St. John the Bap- tist there are some exquisite figures by Elaxman. Peterborough has a large trade in corn, coal, etc. 2 M. out is Milton Park, the seat of Earl Eitzwilliam. 9 M. distant is Castor, with a perfectly preserved Roman fortress. 21 M. away is Fotheringhay, with a splendid ruined ch., and the ruins of the old Plan- tagenet castle in which Mary, Queen of Scots, was put to death. Erom Peterborough it is 30 M. (fares, 6s. 3d., 5s., 2s. 5|d.) to

ENGLAND. 123

Ely (Lamh Inn; Bell). The Isle of Ely is a tract of high land, amid the fens; and here a 'monastery was founded by St. Etheldreda (673). A charter was granted by Edg-ar, confirmed by Canute, Edward the Confessor and the Pope. The isle made an excellent defence against William the Conqueror. The cathe- dral was founded about 1082. The stalls are remark- able specimens of wood-carving. The Galilee is a beautiful porch. The Central Octagon is a superb Grothic d,ome, with exquisite details. Note the new oak screen, with brass gates ; the rich marble carvings in the Choir; the Stalls; Bishop Alcock's Chapel; Prior Crandene's Cliapel; and the ancient .S^'sAo^'s: Palace. There is a Parle S. of the Cathedral. The Lady Chapel was begun in the reign of Edward II., and is considered one of the most perfect buildings of its kind, Ely Cathedral is the longest Gothic cathedral (but one) in Europe (537 ft.). The W, tower is 266 ft. high. For technical description see King's Hand-Booh of English Cathedrals, which, is an excellent companion in these ancient towns. From Ely proceed to

Cambridge {University Arms; Red Lion; Bull; Hoop; Sirdar; Blue Boar), 56 T^. from London^ and on the Cam, a narrow stream that rambles all over the town. Tradition gives 630 as the date of the foundation of the University; but the oldest college^ Peterhouse or St. Peter's, can only be referred to 1257, The public buildings are the Shire Hall, Town Hall, University halls and library, and Fitzwilliam Museum.

There are 1 7 colleges, in ferior in a rchitectural beauty to those of Oxford, though their associations are quite as interesting. Trinity was founded by Henry VIII. in 1546, and has 3 fine quadrangles; a splendid hall in the Tudor style; gardens; and an important library, withbusts of Newton and Bacon. Thorwaldsen's statue

124 CAMBRIDGE.

of Byron, Newton's telescope, some of John Miitou-s MSS., etc. Christ's College, founded in 1442, was Milton's college. In the gardens is Milton s Mulberry^ Tree. The quadrangle was rebuilt by^Jnigo Jones. Jesus College (1496) and Chapel are very fine build- ings, on the site of a Benedictine nunnery. Caius (pronounced Kees) was founded in 1384, and enlarged in 1557 by Dr. Caius, physician to Queen Mary. Re- built lately, it is now one of the best. Corpus Christ! (1351) contains curious portraits^ especially those of Sir Thomas More, Wolsey, Erasmus, and Foxe, the author of the Book of Martyrs. King's College (1441), founded by Henry VI., is the finest t)uilding in the University. The chapel is the finest specimen of perpendicular Gothic existing. The roof, unsupported by pillars, contains 12 divisions of exquisite lace-work tracery in stone. The 24 stained- glass windows, each 50 ft. high, are beautiful. The music is exceptionally fine. The visitor should go to the Sunday service, St. John's, founded by Mar- 'garet, the mother of Henry VII., in 1511, has 4 quad- rangles, a beautiful chapel, and a rare old library. See also Emmanuel, 1584 (whose graduates founded New England); St. Catherhie's (1475); Clare (1326); Downing (1807) ; Pembroke (1347) ; Sidney Sussex (1596); Magdalene (1519) ; Trimtu Hall (1347).

The most striking part of Cambridge is "the Backs," where the college gardens slope down to the river, overhung by beautiful trees and crossed by handsome bridges. The site of Cambridge is flat, and forms part of the great Fen Level.

• Not far from Cambridge is Newmarket, the fa- mous turf resort, which became popular in the days of James I., who had a hunting-seat here. Near by is Bury St. Edmunds, where an abbey (whose noble

ENGLAND. 125

ruins remain) was founded by Canute to commemorate the martyrdom of Edmond. We proceed next to

Bedford {Swan; Embankment; George; Red Lion)^ once the tome of John Bunyan. His chair, in Bunyan Meeting, Mill-St., may still be seen ; and Bedford Jail, where he wrote a portion of The Pilgrim's Progress, still exists. Bun^^^an's birthplace was Elstoio, 1 M. from Bedford ; and there his cot- tage and forge are shown. Also a noble abbey-ch. See the fine statue of Bunyan, preaching, and hold- ing the Bible. This stands on St. Peters Green. Scenes from Tlie Pilgrim's Progress on pedestal. The Duke of Bedford gave this statue to the town. Th& philanthropist Howard was born at Cardington, 2 M. distant. The Sioan Inn occupies the site of the old castle, destroyed in the reign of Henry III. From Bedford it is but a very short journey to

Northampton {Angel Hotel; George; PlougTi), the seat of the boot and shoe manufacture (70,000 inliab.). 20 Parliaments were held here between the the 12th and 14tli centuries ; and on one occasion the University was ti-ansferred hither from Oxford. The Castle, with the exception of one tower, was demol- ished in 1662. The old Hospital, founded in honor of Thomas a Becket, is near the S. gate. Interesting sights, — St. Sepulchre Ch., built by the Knights Tem- plar, on the plan of Christ's Sepulchre at Jerusalem ; the Town Hall; the Shire Hall. Statue by Chantrey of Spencer Perceval in All Saints' Ch. Queen Eleanor's Cross is 1 M. S. Near this relic Henry VI. was de- feated by Warwick in 1460, Althor'p Park, seat of Earl Spencer, with famous hbrary and picture-gallery, 7 M. out. Go by rail from Bedford via Bletchley to'

Oxford {Randolph Hotel, the most modern, with res- taurant; Clarendon; Mitre ^nA. Roebuck, in the centrf

126 OXFOED.

of tlie town, first-class ; King's Arms Hotel ; Golden Cross Hotel). The modern town contains the County jail, near the old tower of Oxford Castle ; the Town Hall J and the Martyrs' Memorial, a Gothic monu- ment in St. Giles, near the spot where Cranmer, Ridley, and Latimer were burnt at the stake, in 1555-6. Oxford as a seat of learning dates from the time of Alfred the Great, or even eadier. The origi- nal town was demolished by the Danes, The tradi- tions of modern Oxford go back to the Conquest, after which the monasteries founded there obtained great fame for their learning. The town-plan is a cross, 4 broad streets converging from the cardinal points. The central point is called Corfax, a cor- ruption of Quatre wies. The curve of High-St,, with its splendid architectural monuments, makes it one of the finest streets in Europe.

Public buildings to be visited : The Schools; Aslimo- lean Museum, containing the Arundel 3Ia7'bles. Bod- lean Library, with its interesting portraits ; Bad- cliffe Observatory ; Taylor Institution; Unimrsity Galleries (open daily, 1.2-4), containing important drawings by Michael Angelo and Raphael ; Univer- sity Museum, a modern Gothic building in the Park. The laboratories are worthy of notice (open daily, after 2 r. m,). See the beautiful Ch. of St. Mary/ University College was founded, according to tradition, in 872, by Alfred the Great , but it dates historically from 1280. Imposing high-towered gate- ways, new library, etc. Balliol was founded by John Balliol, and Devorgilla, his wife (parents of John Balliol, King of Scotland), in 1268. The build- ing has been restored, and new halls built, ^ Merton (1264), handsome tower and curious old architecture. Two quadrangles, and a large chapel. Exeter (1314)5 fiiie modern spire to the chapel (a copy of La

ENGLAND. 127

r^ainte Chapelle, at Paris. Very large buildings. Noted timber roof in hall. Oriel (1326), wliei-e at one time studied Arnold, Keble, Newman, Pusey, and Wilberforce. -Queen's (1431), with hall de- signed by Wren, New College (1380), one of the finest architecturally, with beautiful cloisters ; fine chapel and splendid choir. Lincoln (1427), John Wesley's college. -All Souls' (1437), fine buildings in two quadrangles. Magnificent chapel, with rere- dos. Spacious hall. Magdalen (pronounce Maud- len), founded in 1457, with a beautiful campanile, •cloisters, gardens, Addison's walk along the Clier- ivell. Splendid chapel (famous choral service, 5 p.m. during term). Erasenose (1512), Bishop Heber's college. Corpus Christi (1516), almost unchanged for 300 years. Christ Church, founded by Car- dinal Wolsey (1525). Pagade 400 ft. long. Attached to this foundation is the Gailiedral of Glirut Gh. (once the ch. of St. Frideswide's Priory). The great college tower contains Great Tom, which weighs 17,000 lbs. Fine library and pictures. Immense quadrangle. Through the new buildings pass into die beautiful Christ- Church meadows (50 acres on the rivers Isis and Cherwell). Trinity (1554), beau- tiful gardens and walks, with classical tower and chapel. St, John's (1555), magnificent late Gothic buildings, and fine gardens. Jesus (1571), fre- quented largely by Welshmen. Fine hall, chapel, and library. Wadham (1613), beautiful gardens. Fine chapel and hall, with timber roof. Pembroke (1624), Samuel Johnsop's college. 'Worcester (1714), beautiful gardens and lake. Keble, built by ^subscription as a memorial to the Eev. John Keble, in 1870.

Oxford to London by Great Western Ely., 63^ M,» by N. Western, 78 M. (lis., 8s. 4d,, 5s. 3d.).

138 LONDON.

London.

Hotels. — Albemarle, Avondale, Berkeley, Picca- dilly ; Carlton, Pall Mall ; Broivn's and St. George's Hotel, Dover-St. ; Bristol, Burlington Gardens; Claridge's, Buckland's, Brook-St, ; Windsor, Vic- toria-St. ; Buchinghain Palace liotel', St. Ermin's^ Caxton-St. ; Langham, Portland PI. ; Ford's, Man- chester-St. ; De Keyser's B.oyal, Blackf riars Bridge ; Savoy, Cecil, Thames Embankment ; Moriey's, Tra- falgar Sq. ; Curson. ivlayfair; Waldorf, Aldwjch; Hans Crescent Hotel ; South Kensington Hotel, Alexandra, Hyde Park Corner; Bailey's, Gloucester Rd.; iVbrr^Vs,* Russell Rd.; Hotel Russell, Russell :Sq. ; Inns of Court, First Avenue, High Holborn; Bedford Head, Tottenham Court Rd. There are several good hotels for men only, among which may be mentioned Jbrns^foc/j, (movent Garden ; Cavendish, MorWs, Brunswick, Cox's, British, Jermyn St. A peculiar institution of London and some other English towns is the temperance hotel; of this class :are Philip's Cockiurn Hotel, Endsleigh Gardens ; West Ce7itral, Southampton Row ; Shirley's, Queen Sq. ; Kingsley, Hart St. ; Thackeray, Gt. Russell St. Each of the principal railway stations has a large and often yery good hotel connected with it ; there are the Great Eastern, Liverpool St. ; City Terminus Hotel, Cannon St.; Holborn Viaduc.t ; Ilidland 'Grand, St. Pancras Station; Great Western, Pad- dington Station ; Great Central, Marylebone Station ; Grosvenor, Victoria Station; Charing Cross; Great Northern, King's Cross ; Huston, Euston Square. In Albermarle, New Bond, Dover, Arlington, St. James, and Clifford Sts. are many fashionable hotels. In and around Covent Garden and the Strand are many excellent houses. At the great houses, single rooms, 4s. -15s. per day; attendance, Is. 6cl. ; breakfast, 2s. 6d.-3s. 6d. ; table d'hote dinner, without wine, 5s.;

General Map of Loudon sliowing Main Streu

rjublic Buildin^-s, and Cliiet Kaiiway Stations

^1

ENGLAND 129

luncheon a la carte. In some hotels dinner is 7s, 6d. to 10s. 6d. In hotels of second order bedrooms cost 2s. 6d.-6s. ; attendance, Is.-ls. 6d. ; breakfast, 2s. 6d. : dinner, 3s. -4s. Beware of ordering- dinner a la carte in the coffee-rooms : the bill becomes enormous. If you stay more than 3-4 days, the servants who wait on you all expect gratuities. Boarding. — There are several excellent private boarding establishments patronized mainly by Americans. Furnished Lodg' ings without board are not expensive. Very good double bedrooms may be had for 15s. -21s. per week; breakfast per person, in the house, 12s. 6d.-15s. per week; single bedrooms, 8s. -14s. per week.

Restaurants. — London has been poor in these in comparison with Paris and other Continental cities, but is no longer so. We may mention especially the Trocadero, Piccadilly and Criterion, in Picca- dilly Circus ; Frascati's, Oxford St. ; Verry and Bur- lington, Regent St. ; Holhorn, Horseshoe, Tottenham Court Rd. ; Kettner^s, Soho ; Dieudonne, Ryder St. ; Florence, Rupert St.; Simpson^ s, Romano's, Gatti's, Tivoli Grand, Colonnade, Adelphi, in the Strand; Old Blue Post Tavern, Cook St., W. ; Prince's, Pic- cadilly. In the City are the Auction Mart, Token- house Yard ; London Tavern, Penchurch St. ; Pimm's, Poultry St. ; Crosby Hall, Bishopsgate Within ; Old Cheshire Cheese, Wine Office Court; Sweeting, Cheapside. Many of the large hotels have good, but expensive, tahle d'hote dinners.

The American Ambassador to the Court of St. James is Hon. Whitelaw Reid. The Consul-General of the U. S. in London is Mr. John L. Griffiths.

A Round-Trip Omnibus Route. — From Trafal- gar Sq. take a Blackwall (blue) omnibus via Charing Cross, the Strand, Fleet St., Ludgate Hill, Cheapside, the Bank, Cornhill, Aldgate. Whitechapel, Commer- cial Rd., to Bnrdett Rd. Get down here, and take tramway (yellow horse-car) through Victoria Park. Walk up the Victoria Park Rd.. and at the end of the

180 LONDONo

road take the tram to City Kd., past Hackney and Old St. Rd. City Rd. crosses Old St. Rdo Take tram (blue) to Archway Tavern by City Rd., Liverpool Rd. and Holloway Rd. From HoUoway Rd. a car may be taken via Caledonian Rd. to King's Cross, and from King's Cross take (green) omnibus to The Castle, Camden Town. Walk to the Bi^itannia, Camden Town, and take a (claret) Camden Town omnibus to Bishop's Rd. through Park St., St. John's Wood Rd., past Lords Cricket Ground, Grove Rd., Church St., Paddington Green. From where this omnibus stops another Tyellow) may be taken via Edgware Rd., Oxford St., Holborn, the Viaduct, Cheapside, King William St. and London Bridge. From London Bridge take a (green) omnibus to the Elephant and Castle. From this point take a tram to Westminster, and then (yellow) omnibus to Trafalgar Square.

The Underground Railways are convenient. The Metropolitan and Metropolitan Distinct Rys. run in a circle from Notting Hill Gate to Aldgate and have numerous feeders to the suburbs. The City a7id South London Electric Ry., the Waterloo and City Ry. and the Bakerloo (Baker St., Water- loo) pass in tunnels beneath the Thames, the former to Clapham Common, the two latter to Waterloo Station. The Central London Ry., called popularly the " Twopenny Tube," runs in nearly a straight line from the Bank of England to Shepherd's Bush. Tramways in outlying districts are numerous (fares 2d. toSd).

Cab- fares. — Within a 4-M. radius, of which Char- ing Cross is centre, fares are regulated thus : for any distance under 2 M., Is.; for every additional M. or fraction, 6d. Within central part of London the or- dinary course is rarely more than Is. Taximeter cabs charge 6d. for 1st M. or 12 min., 3d. for each succeed- ing ^ M. or 6 min. Outside 4-M. circle. Is. per M. When engaged by hour, 4-wheel cabs, locally called

Section of London, wit

lington House as Centre.

TUo " City " oi" London {The Citi}

ms are indicated hy the dotted lines).

ENGLAND ' 131

growlers, inside the radius, for 1 hr. or less, 2s.; for every additional 15 min., 6d. Baggage, 2d per pk. ; hansoms, per h., 2s. 6d. ; every additional 15 min. , 8d. Theatres, etc. — The following are the principal theatres: Aldwycli, Strand; ^IpoZZo, Shaftesbury Av.; Adelphi. Strand; Comedy, Panton St., Haymarket; Court, Sloane Sq. ; Covent Garden (opera) ; Criterion, Piccadilly Circus; Daly's, Leicester Sq. ; Drury Lane, Catherine St.; Duke of York's, St. Martin's Lane; Garrick, Charing Cross Rd. ; The Hicks, Shaftes- bury Ave. ; Gaiety, Strand; Hippodrome; Haymar- Tcet; Lyric, Shaftesbury Ave.; His Majesty's, Hay- market; Lyceum; New Royalty, Dean St., Shaftes- bury Ave. ; New Theatre, St. Martin's Lane; The Playhouse; Prince of Wales', Coventry St. ; Savoy, Strand; Scala Theatre, Charlotte St. ; Shaftesbury, Shaftesbury Ave. ; St. James's, King St. ; Terry's, Strand; iwpermZ, Westminster; Vaudeville, Strand; Waldorf, Aldwych; Wyndham's, Charing Cross Rd. The E. End theatres, of which there are several, are worth a visit, to get an idea of how the lower classes take their amusement. Music-halls abound. The best are: The Oxford, in Oxford St.; the ^Z/iam&ra and the Empire, Leicester Sq. ; the Metropolitan, Edge- ware Rd. ; the Palace, Shaftesbury Ave. ; the Tivoli, Strand; and the Pavilion^ in Piccadilly Circus. The Aquarium, at Westminster, gives varied entertain- ments. Visitors in winter will find the best panto- mimes at Drury Lane and Covent Garden. In South London is the Surrey Tlieutre, in Blackfriars Road, which was at first a circus and later, after being re- built, the home of the legitimate Drama. Promenade concerts iire held in Aug. and Sept., at Covent Gar- den; good concerts, with ballad singing, are plenty during the season at St. James's Hall and the Royal

133 LONDON-ST. PAUL'S CATHEDRAL.

Albert Hall. The latter has celebrated organ of 10,000 pipes and 130 stops.

Museums. — The British Museum, Great Russell St.; see p. 147. Bethnal Green Museum, Cambridge Rd. ; paintings, food products, British butterflies, etc. ; Wed. 6d., other days free. Geological, Jeremyn St.; 10 till dusk; free on introduction by a member. Natural History, South Kensington; 10 till dusk; free. South Kensington, see p. 149. Sir John Soane's, 13 Lincoln's Inn Fields; antiquities; 10 till dusk, free on application. United Service, Whitehall Yard; war relics, model of Battle of Waterloo, etc.; admission (except Wed.) 6d. Indian, S. Kensington; free. J.rc/w7ec^wre, Tufton St.; free; Atitiquarian,.^. Burlington House; free on application to secretary. •■ j Guildhall, King St.; London antiquities; free. Bo- tanical, Regent's Park; free on order from one of the Fellows. Linnman, Burlington House; free on Member's order. Royal College of Surgeons, Lin- coln's Inn Fields; anatomical and pathological speci- mens. The Wallace Collection of paintings, furni- ture, ceramics, armor, etc., is in Hertford House, Manchester Square. Mme. Tussaud's Waxworks are in the Marylebone Road (daily, 11-6, Is.), with 200 figures of celebrities.

The City lies between Temple Bar (W) and Aid- gate (E), the Thames (S) and Smithfield and Fins- bury Circus (N), and has about 60,000 inhab. and the great offices, warehouses, etc. Westminster lies between the city and Chelsea, Oxford St. and the Thames, and has the chief palaces and modern streets. There are also eight boroughs, and scores of annexed villages, in the " Metropolitan District," which covers 690 square M., having 6,600 M. of streets, and 550,000 buildings.

St. Paul's Cathedral was built by Wren in 1675- 1710, on a site before occupied by a temple of Diana, a Roman British ch., and King Ethelbert's ch., built

ENGLAND. 133

in 610 and uestroyed in 1666. Here King John yielded to the Pope (in 1213) ; Wyckliffe was cited for heresy (1337) ; and Tyndale's New Testament was burned (1537). St. Paul's is a Latin Cross, with nave 500 X 118 ft. ; transepts, 250 ft. long; inner dome, 225 ft. high ; and height to top of cross, 404 ft. St. Peter's and Milan and Seville Cathedrals are larger. It is open from 10 a. m. to dark. Services at 8 and 10 A. M., and 4 and 8 p. m. Fee at Crypt, 6d.; Whisper- ing and Stone Galleries, 6d.; Library, 6d.; Ball, Is. 6d. The W. front is flanked by high campaniles. The interior is vast, but bare. See organ and wood carvings in the choir, and monuments of Howard, the philanthropist ; Donne, the poet-dean ; Dean Milman ; Bishop Heber ; Dr. Johnson ; Hallam, the historian ; Lord Nelson ; Gen. Pakenham ; Sir John Moore ; Lord Rodney, etc. In the crypt are the porphyry and marble sarcophagi of "Wellington, Nel son, and Collingwood ; Wellington's hearse ; and the tombs of the artists Reynolds, West, Lawrence, Tur« ner, Fuseli, and Barry. From the S. aisle, ascend to Library (10,000 vols.), WJdsjjering Oallery, Stone Gallery, and Ball. Hare speaks of St. Paul's as "sublimely grandiose, with a sooty dignity all its own " ; and Hawthorne found it * ' unspeakably grand

and noble It would not be nearly so grand

without this drapery of black."

Paternoster Row, famous for books, is N. of the Cathedral ; and S. are the Beanery, Choristers' School, and Herald's College. Down the Row is Waricick Lane, once the haunt of Lord Warwick, the king-maker. The General Post-OfEce and Telegraph Office are immense buildings near by, nearly hiding St. Vedasfs Ch., one of Wren's masterpieces. The wealthy Christ's Hospital, founded hy Edward VI., on the site of a Greyfriars' convent, has 1,200 blue- robed pupils; Richardson, Coleridge, Lamb, and Leigh Hunt were educated hei-A. Ne^wgate, a famous prison

134 NEWGATE. — GUILDHALL.

where Jack Sheppard, Titus Gates, Wm. Penn, and Daniel Defoe were confined, is in the Old Bailey, reached from Ludgate Hill. N. of Christ's is iSt. Bartliolomeiv''s Hospital^ a great quadrangle founded as a priory in 1102, and converted into a hospital by Henry VIII. In the Great Hall are paintings by Hogarth, Lawrence, Keynolds, etc. The grand Norman Ch. dates from 1102, and has rare monuments. The vast adjacent Smith- field Market (3 1-2 acres under roof) occupies the ground once used for the revels, miracle-plays, and tournaments of Bartholomew Fair, and later for the martyrdoms under Bloody Mary and Elizabeth. Here, also, Wat Tyler and Sir Wm. Wallace were put to death. ISTewgate-St. leads to the noble Hol- toorn Viaduct, spanning a deep valley, at one end of which is >S'^. Bepulclire' s Gli. (John Rogers was its rector), containing the tomb of Captain John Smith. Near Smithfield is the picturesque Char- terliouse, a rich school and asylum on the site of a Carthusian convent (1371). Among the pupils here were Steele, Addison, Blackstone, Wesley, Grote, Lovelace, Barrow, Eastlake, John Leech, Thirl wall, Thackeray, and Havelock. See the Elizabethan Great Chamber ; cloisters, chapel, and pictures in the Master'' s Lodge ; also, in adjacent Bunhill Fields, tombs of Bunyan, Defoe, and Dr. Watts ; and, in St. John's Lane, Clerkenwell, the rare old Bt. John's Gate, built in 1504. The Guildhall, originally built 1411-31, but almost entirely de- .stroyed in the Great Fire of 1666, has the inuni- cipal offices, a Gothic Library, a museum (Ro- man antiques, etc.), a beautiful crypt, a'^d fine portraits. The Great Hall, 153 x 50 feb., has a noble timber roof, stained windows, and the

ENGL AM). 135

wooden giants, Gog and Magog. GresJiam Col- hge (1579) and Goldsmiths' Hall are close by.

Cheapside is a busy street, with handsome shops, from whicli run Bread-St., where Milton was born, and Milk-St., where Sir Thomas More was born and on whicli stood the Mermaid Inn, beloved by Shakes- peare, Ben Jonson, Beaumont and Fletcher, Donne, etc. Bow Ch., built by Wren, rises over a Norman crypt, and is crowned by a great dragon, on a tower 235 ft. high. Whoever is born within sound of its bells is a " cockney." Mercers' Hall, with its rich pil- lared court, is on the site of Thomas ^ Becket's birthplace (1119). The Grocers' and Armorers' (fine hall and rich armor) Halls are farther on. The Man- sion House (1739-1753), and famous for the Egyp- tian Hall, is the palace of the Lord Mayor. The costly new Queen Victoria-St. leads thence, by Apothecaries' Hall and The Times Office, to Black- friars Bridge (|^M.). Opposite the Mansion House Is the low, massive, and broad-based Bank of Eng- land, which keeps $75-100,000,000 in coin in its vaults. The splendid Royal Exchange, with its rich carvings, Corinthian colonnades, and campanile, and the Stock Exchange, are near by. Statues of Wellington and Peabody, near Exchange ; also Crosby Hall, built in 1466 ; and St. Helen's Ch. , of the 12th century. In Cornhill, Gray, the poet, was born. St. Michael's Ch. w^as built by Wren, and St. Catherine Cree by Inigo Jones. Lombard-St. is the Wall-St. of London ; Mincing Lane, the headquar- ters of colonial trade ; Mark Lane, the grain mar- ket. In St. Olave's Ch. is the tomb of Pex)ys ; and in Trinity Ch. (formerly a Minorite nunnery) is the Duke of Suffolk's head. St. Stcithin's ' Ch. has the famous London stone, a Roman milliarium, built into its wall. The venerable St. Saviour's Ch. is over London Bridge, and has a beautiful Lady Chapgl

136 THE TOWER.

and Choir, and t ombs of Massinger, Fletcher, Gow- er, and Shakespeare's brother. Beyond is the an- cient Guy's Hospital, in whose ch. Astley Cooper is buried. King- Willimn-Bt. runs from the Bank, by St. Mary Woolnotfi's Ch. and the site of Fal- stafii's Boafs Head Tavern, to London Bridge, 928 ft. long, built in 1825-31, at a cost of $10,- 000,000, on 5 granite arches. 20,000 carriages and 100,000 pedestrians cross it daily. The Romans and the Saxons had bridges here. The Monu- ment, 202 ft. high, built by Wren in 1671-77 to commemorate the Great Fire of 1666 (which de- stroyed 1357,000,000 of property) is close by. Fine ■view from its top (fee, 3d.). Thames-8t. was Chau- cer's home, 1379-85. St. Magnus the Martyr, one of Wren's Chs., has Miles Coverdale's tomb. Farther E. is Billingsgate, the famous fish-market, The Custom House is 490 ft. long, on a quay be^ side the Thames.

The Tower is " historically the most interest^ ing spot in England" (open daily, 10-4, 6d.; Mon. and Sat. , free). A stone bridge leads to the Outer Bail ; and the Bell Tower and Traitors' Gate are passed on the way to the Inner Bail, in which rises the famous White Tower, built by William the Conqueror, on the site of a Roman fort. It is 96 X 116 ft. in area, and 95 ft. high, with turreted walls 12 ft. thick. Here Richard II . abdicated his throne (1399), and James I. of Scotland was im- mured. The beautiful Norman Chapel of St. John is here ; also the Council Chamber and Banqueting Hall. Among the prisoners of the Tower have been King John of France, King David Bruce of Scot- land, the Dukes of Orleans and Marlborough, Wil- liam Wallace, Archbishop Cranmer, Lord Straf- ford, and William Lord Russell. Outside is a col-

ENGLAND. 137

Election of ancient cannon ; and the Horse Armoury^ full of trophies, ancient armor of all nations, and 22 eques* trian figures in full English, Burgundian, and German armor, of dates from 1272 to 1688, and once worn by princes and nobles. Upstairs are trophies from Quebec, Malta, India, New Zealand, etc. Qtieen ElizaheWs Armoury contains weapons of the Elizabethan age, the block on which Lord Lovat was decapitated, and the axe which struck off the Earl of Essex's head. Ad' jacent is the 10 X 8 cell in which Sir lYalter Ealeigh was confined, 1603-16. The Bloody Tower was that m which the sons of Edward IV. were murdered ; Lord Dudley was imprisoned in the Beauchamp Totoer; Prin- cess Elizabeth, in the Bell Tower ; Lady Jane Grey, in the Brick Tower. The Duke of Clarence was put to death in the Bowyer Tower; and Henry VI. in Wakefeld Tower, In the Jewel House are the Crown Jewels.^ valued at $15,000,000: 8t. Edward's crown; Victoria's crown, with 2,783 diamonds, and a wonderful sapphire and ruby (it cost ^560,000); several other crowns; the royal sceptre, and other sceptres and orbs ; the Koh-i- Noor diamond ; etc. In the cemetery attached to the ancient chapel of St. Peter ad Vmcula are the remains of Anne Boleyn, Sir Thomas More, two Earls of Essex, Lord Somerset, Lady Jane Grey, the Dukes of North- umberland and Monmouth, and other noble victims. On Tower Hill stand Trinity House, whose brethren care for the British lighthouses and buoys, and the Royal Mint. William Penn was born on Tower Hill ; and the poet Otway died there. St. Katherines and London Docks are E. of the Tower, with vast crowded warehouses. London Docks cover 120 acres, and cost $20,000,000. Earther down are other vast docks, the largest in the world. N. W. of the Tower are Bethnal Green Museum and Victoria Bark. In the Swedish Ch at Shadwell, Swedenborg is buried.

138 FLEET-STKEET. — THE TEMPLE.

Blackfriars Bridge, 1,272 ft. long, on gtanite piers, is named from a monastery formerly hard by, founded in 1276, and where Cardinal Wolsey divorced Katherine of Aragon from Henry VIII. Shakespeare and Bei? Jonson formerly lived at Blackfriars. The Victoria Embankment runs along tlie N. bank of the Thames, from Blackfriars to Westminster Bridge, 1-| M,, occu- pied by a roa^ and walks 100 ft. wide. This work was done, 1864-70, at a cost of $10,000,000. It is adorned with trees and gardens, and statues of Mill, Outram, and Brunei, Here also stands Cleopatra's Needle, the great Egyptian obelisk. See also the ancient Water- gate of York House, built by Inigo Jones. On the site of Durham House is the Adelphi Terrace, where King Kamehameha II. and David Garrick died.

Fleet-St. runs from near St. Paul's to the Strand, passing Congregational Memorial Hall, on. the site of Fleet Prison, made famous by Dickens ; the office of Vunch; St. Bride's Ch., built by Wren, near site of Bridewell Prison, with tomb of Richardson the nov-. elist; Bolt Court, where Dr. Johnson lived (1776- 81) and died, and Cobbett labored; Cheshire Cheese hm, frequented by Johnson, Boswell, and Goldsmith ; Whitefriars, on the site of an ancient Carmelite monas- tery; Alsatia (down Bouverie-St.), the home of rogues, described in Scott's Fortunes of Nigel ; the site of Izaak Walton's hosiery-shop, 1621-43 ; the Gothic CJ^. of St. Dunstan in the West ; Mitre Cotirt, and its famous old inn ; and the Neio Record Office (open 10-1), a stately Tudor building, coutainmg the Domesday Book. The Temple was founded by the Knights Templar in 1184, and reverted to the Crown on their dissolution, in 1313. In 1346 it was leased to the law schools, which have ever since occupied it. The buildings extend -Crom Fleet-St. to the famous Tem])le Gardens^ where the

ENGLAND. 139

iVar of the Roses broke out. The Middle Temple has a splendid Elizabethan Gothic hall (built 1572), with dark oaken ceiling and princely portraits. Dr. John- son, Chaucer, Blackstone, Lamb, and Oliver Goldsmith lived in the Middle Temple ; and the lattei' is buried in the yard of the very beautiful Temple Ch. (open 10-12, 1-4 daily), built in 1185-1240, which has quaint old Templars' monuments, rich stained windows, and polished pillars of Purbeck marble. Nearly opposite , across Fleet-St., are the vast and superb new Law Courts, in Gothic architecture, which have cost over ^5,000,000. Farther N. is the famous Lincoln's Inn» the home of lawyers, with a great library, a quaint chapel built by Inigo Jones, and a handsome Tudor diuins^-hall. Pitt, More, and Brougham long lived here. In Lincoln's Inn Fields is the lioyal College of Sur- geons, with a vast museum ; near by is the Soane MuseiLm, with rare MSS. and early books, antique gems, mediteval and Renaissance curiosities, and paintings by Hogarth, Turner, Eastlake, Reynolds. Gray's Inn, on the IST. side of Ilolborn, has been a law school since 1371. Bacon was a member here. Reyond the monument on the site of Temple Bar (built in 1670 ; taken down 1878), Fleet-St. is con- tinued as the Strand, connecting the city and the W". End. St. Clement Danes Ch. stands over the tombs of Harold Harefoot and other Danish war- riors. Dr. Johnson used to worship here ; Joe Miller and the poet Otway are buried in the ch.- yard. Hard by is Clement's Inn, sacred to law- yers, and often mentioned by Shakespeare. Essex, Arusiel, Norfolk, and Surrey-Sts., named from the jMilaces of the great nobles formerly there- abouts, diverge to the Embankment, In the latter lived Congreve and Sale ; Peter the Great lived in

140 WATERLOO BRIDGE-COVENT GARDEN

Buckin^ham-St. Thomas a Becket was priest of the Ch. of St. Mary le Strand. Voltaire lived in Maiden Lane. Somerset House is a vast Government build- ing, on the site of the Lord Protector's Palace, with a splendid front towards the Thames. Here may be seen (10-3 dally) the wills of Holbein, Shakespeare, Van Dyck, Newton, Dr. Johnson, and Napoleon I. Waterloo Bridge was built at a cost of $5,000,000. Exeter Hall stands in this region of theatres, and is a famous centre of religious movements. The Chapel Royal, Savoy, a Gothic ch., with ancient tombs, is ia Savoy-St.. It was built in 1505, on the site of the Savoy Palace, given by Henry III. to Peter of Savoy ; owned by John of Gaunt ; destroyed by Wat Tyler's mob ; and replaced by Henry VII. with a hospital. In the Palace, Chaucer wrote several poems ; and there King John of France died. To the N. is Covent Garden, the chief fruit, flower, and vegetable market of London (visit before 7 a.m., Tues., Thurs., or Sat.), on site of convent gardens granted to the Dukes of Bedford in 1551, and still held by them. Here lived- Sir Kenelm Digby, Bishop Berjieley, Lord Crewe, Sir Godfrey Kneller, etc. ; and the poet Marvell and the painter Turner dwelt in Maideti Lane. Inigo Jones built Si. Pa fir s Ch., in whose yard Samuel Butler C'Hudibras"), Sir Peter Lely, " Peter Pindar," the dramatist Wycherley, and the famous wood-carver Grin- ling Gibbons, are buried. The Royal Italian Opera-House is in Covent Garden; and near it is the Floral Hall. A-t Charing Cross is a modern copy of a cross erected near its site by Edward I., in 1201. There is an ancient equestrian statue of Charles I. at Charing Cross. "The full tide of existence is at Charing Cross," said Dr. Johnson. Harry Vane. Barrow, and Johnson lived hereabouts.

ENGLAND. 141

The splendid Trafalgar Square contains a col- umn 177 ft. high, with a colossal statue of Nelson, and colossal lions designed by Landseer ; also statues of Gordon, Havelock, George IV, and Sir Charles Napier, On one side stood Nm^thuniberm land House, the palace of the Percies, bought by the Board of Works for $2,500,000, and demolished in 1874. On part of its site stands the Grand Ho- tel. The Gil. of St. Martin in the Fields has a fine Grecian front ; and in its yard lie Roubillac the sculp- tor, Parquliar the dramatist, and Nell Gwynne, The magnificent National Gallery (free, open Mon., Tues., Wed., and Sat., 10 a.m., till dark: Thurs. and Fri., 6d.; Sun., in summer) N. of Square, has a classic fa9ade, 460 ft. long. It contains over 1,000 pictures, and is visited ' by nearly 1,000,000 persons yearly. Each picture has its title and artist inscribed upon it. Fine busts and statues in the Hall. Many of the most famous pictures of the world, familiar by countless engravings, are in this great collection. National Portrait Gal. adjoins the Nat, Gal., open same days.

Whitehall leads S. to Whitehall Palace, where Henry VIII. met Anne Boleyn, and where he died ; where Holbein dwelt ; whence Elizabeth was removed to prison, and Charles I. to execution ; where Milton and Cromwell dwelt, and the latter died ; where Charles II. held court. The site was occupied by the palace of Hubert de Burgh (13th century), a Dominican con- vent, and the palace of Cardinal Wolsey. The great Palladian Bcmqueting Hall only remains, designed by Inigo Jones, painted by Rubens, and now used as a royal chapel (service on Sun. at 11 and 3). In a house near by, Sir Robert Peel died. In this vicmity is Scotland Yard, famous in police annals ; once the property of the Scottish Idngs, and later the home of Wren, Milton, Inigo Jones. Also Montague House,

142 THE HOUSES OF PARLIAMENT.

tlie palace of the Duke of Buccleucli. In Whitehall Yard is the United Service Museum, crowded with tro- phies of the wars of Britain on all seas and shores, relics of Cromwell, Nelson, Wolfe, Drake, Franklin, Wellington, Napoleon, etc. The Horse-Guarda, headquarters of the army, is opposite Whitehall. See mounted Life-Guards sentries, 10-4 daily. The Treas^ ury comes next S. The new Public Offices, built in 1868-73 by Sir G. G. Scott (cost, $2,500,000), p splendid pile of Itahan buildings, contain the Home, Foreign, Colonial, and India Offices.

The Houses of Parliament form an immense Tudor Gothic pile, of Yorkshire magnesian limestone (already crumbling), covering 8 acres, with 11 courta and 1,100 i-ooms, erected 184U-59. Strangers admitted between 10 and 3 on a member's order. Fagade along Thames (940 ft. long) is adorned with statues and shields of all the sovereigns of England. The splendid Victoria Tower is 340 ft. high and 75 ft. square ; the Middle Tower is 300 ft. high ; and the Clock Tower, 318 ft. high, has a huge clock (dials 23 ft. across), and Big Ben, a bell weighing 13 tons. The oldest part is Westminster Hall, built by William Rufus in 1097, and covered with the present wonderful roof of Irish oak by Richard II. a splendid hall, 270 ft. long and 92 ft. high, formerly the seat of England's most august tri- bunals. Here Wallace, Strafford, Guy Fawkes, More, Wyatt, Lords Essex, Cobham, and Arundel, the Dukes of Somerset, Buckingham, and Norfolk, the Scottish nobles who favored the Stuarts, and King Charles I. were condemned to death. Here Warren Hastings was tried, and also the Seven Bishops. Here Edward III. received the captive kings, David of Scotland and John of France. Here Cromwell was installed Lord Protector. Here the coronation-banquets have been

ENGLAND. 143

held for 800 years. A stairway descends to the crypt or C/i. of_St. Mary Undercroft, built by King Steplien, and lately made res|:>lendent as a chapel. St. Stephen s Cloisters, E. of the hall, were built by Henry YIII, Ascending from the hall, enter St. Stephens Hall, with statues of 12 English statesmen and 12 ancient mon- archs ; and the Central Hall, a lofty octagon, with statues. The corridors have large frescos of scenes from English history. The House of Commons, 75 X 45 ft., is panelled wdth oak, and has 12 stahied "win- dows. The House of Lords, 97 X 45 ft., is a superb Gothic room, wath 12 stained windows, statues of the Magna-Charta barons, 6 splendid historical frescos, the Lord Chancellor's M^oolsack and the thrones of the Queen and the Prince of Wales. See the Prince's Chamber, Upper Waiting-Hall, Peers' Robing-Room, superb Yictoria Gallery, and Queen's Pobing-Room (richly frescoed). In Old Palace Yard is a statue of Richard Coeur de Lion. Near by Chaucer and Ben Jonson died. The old Parliament House, erecLeu on the site of the palace of the Anglo-Saxon and Plantagenet kings, and burned in 1834, contained the Star Chamber, and was the birthplace of Edward I., and the scene of the death of Edward the Confessor. Here resounded the eloquence of Pitt, Pox, Chatham, Burke, Canning, and Grattan. Westminster Bridge, built 1856-62, at a cost of $1,250,000, commands a fincTiew of Parliament House. St. Margaret's Ch. replaced a ch. built in 1064 by Edward the Confessor, and has a magnificent old E. window (The Crucifixion) and many quaint tombs, in- cluding those of poet-laureate Skelton, Milton's wdfe, Cromwell's mother, Wm. Caxton, Lady Dudley, Har- rington {author gf Oceana), Sir Wm. Waller, and Si?

144 WESTMINSTER ABBEY

Walter Raleigh (who is buried under the altar). Many fine memorials stand in this vicinity ; also Milton's house, lately occupied by Hazlitt, and fre- quented by Lamb and Haydon; Jeremy Bentham's house ; the quaint old Gray Coat School ; and the pretty houses of Queen Anne's Gate.

Westminster Abbey was founded (on the site of a temple to Apollo) by the Anglo-Saxon King Sebert in 616, for Benedictines; destroyed by Danes; and rebuilt by Edgar (985), Edward the Confessor (1049), Henry III., and Edward I. Henry VIII. drove out the monks, Queen Mary restored them, and Elizabeth scattered them for ever, AU the sovereigns of England since Harold have been •crowned here. It is 416 feet in length and 103 feet high, with W. towers 225 feet high. It is a splen- did Early-English building, immense, harmonious, solemn, richly colored. (Enter near St. Margaret's; open, except Sunday, 9 a.m. till darl?:. Services at 8, 10 and 3 daily. Entrance to chapels, 6d. ; Monday and Tuesday free.) It is world-renowned as England's Temple of Fame, crowded with monu- ments of kings, heroes and scholars. In the AT. Transept are the monuments of Admirals Warren, Tern on, Wager, Lord Chatham, Canning, Castle- Teagh, Peel, Mansfield, two Dukes of Newcastle, Warren Hastings, Cobden, Buller, and many famous lords. . In the abbey are monuments to Wilberf orce, Stamford Raffles, Powell Buxton, Isaac jSTewton, Charles Lyell, Fox, Holland, Pitt, Wordsworth, Keble, Congreve, BuckTand, Outram, Major Andre, Dr. Watts, John Wesley, Greneral Paoli, Kneiler, Livingstone, Stephenson, etc. The Poets' Corner •contains inscriptions to Goldsmith, Gay, Handel, Thomson, Southey, Shakespeare, Campbell, Sher- idan, Camden, Dickens, Grote, Macaulay, Thirl- wall, Addison, Thackeray, Casaubon, Barrow,

ENGLAND. 145

Garnck, Prior, Gra/, Milton, Spenser, Butler, J onson. Drayton, Chaucer, Cowley, Dryden, South, Browning and Tennyson. See chapels of St. Benedict, St. Edmo7id and St. Nicholas. The Chapel of Henry VII., built 1502-20, has nave, aisles, and 5 chapels, with 1,000 statues, exquisite carved-oak cboir-stalls on eacli side (with the swords and banners of tlie Knights of tlie Bath), and a magnificent stone roof of fauwork tracery. See tombs of Henry VII., James L, Mary Queen of Scots, Charles II., William and Mary, George of Denmark, Edward VI., Queen Anne, George II., the Duke of Montpensier, Dean Stanley, Queen Eliza- beth, Edward V., etc. The Chapel of St. Edward the Confessor has tombs of Henry V., Katheriue of Valois, Henry III., Queen Eleanor, Richard II., Philippa of Hainault, Edward the Confessor, and Edward I. ; also, the Scottish and English Coronation Chairs, and the sword and sliield of Edward III. The Chapels of St. John, St. Erasmus, and the Abbot Islip contain ancient tombs, near which are those of Aymer de Valence and Gen. Wolfe. The Chapels of Sts. John, Andrew, and Michael have monuments to Humphry Davy, Dr. Young, Mrs. Siddons, etc. The Chapter -Rouse, built 1250, and occupied by the House of Commons, 1282- 1547, adjoins the Poets' Corner, and is near the Chapel of the Pyx, St. Blaise's Chapel, and the stairs to the Triforium. Near by are the beautiful Cloisters, The world-renowned Jerusalem Chamber was built 1376-8&. Here Henry IV. died; and here the recent revision of the Bible was carried out. Westminster School, founded by Queen Ehzabeth (1560), is entered near the column to the W. Wren, Gibbon, Cowley, Cowper, Churchill, Jonson, Dryden, Prior, Locke, Southej, Hakluyt, and Warren Hastings were educated here.

146 ENGLAND.

St. Thomases Hospital is a line of buildings |- M. long (cost $2,500,000), opposite Parliament House. Beyond, and also on the Thames, is Lara- beth I-alaee, for 700 years the London house of the Archbishops of Canterbury, very beautiful and interesting. Enter by Cardinal Moreton's lofty em- battled gateway. The Ball has a fine timber-roof, and library of 30,000 vols. Hon , Wed., Thurs., Fri., 10-4). The Guard Charnher has portraits of many archbishops. The Chapel, in which these prelates are consecrated, dates from 1244-70. In the Lol- lards^ Tower Lollards were imprisoned and tor- tured. In the inner court is the new Tudor palace of the archbishops. The gardens of Lambeth are beautiful. I M. E. is Bethlehem Hospital for the In- sane {Bedlam) ; and a little beyond are St. George^ s Catliedral (Roman) and Spur g eon's Tabernacle.

Pall Mall is a splendid st., nearly | M. long, run- ning W. from Trafalgar-Square, and lined with club houses, which are also found in St. James- St. Among these are the University, United Service, Athenaeum, Travellers', Reform, Carlton, Army and Navy, Guards, and Marlborough. Pall Mall cross- es Watei^loo Place, in which are the Crimean, Frank-. lin, Burgoyne, and Colin-Campbell monuments, and the York column (124 ft. high; 6d. for ascent). In Pall Mall is Marlhorougli House, built by Wren, former residence of the Prince of Wales; near by St. Ja.mes^s-Sq., with palaces and club-houses. St. James's Palace is a brick building, designed by Holbein and built by Henry VIII. , the home of En- gland's kings from 1691 to 1809, Victoria was married in its chapel, and levees were held in its state-chambers. Gaard-mounting and fine military music daily, at 11.45. Clarence House was the home of the Duke of Edinburgh. Stafford House

ST. JAMES'S PARK 147

(Duke of Sutherland) contains hundreds of paint- ings. Bridgewater House (Lord Ellesmere) has art-collections, including several Eaphaels. St. James's Park, S. of the Palace, was created by Henry VIII. and Charles II., and has a lake in its centre, the Birdcage Walk and Wellington Bar- racks on the S, , the Mall on the JST. , and on the W. , near the Turkish cannon and Marshal Soult's mortar, the Foot Guards parade at 10 a. m. daily. At the W. end is Buckingham. Palace, bought in 1761 by George III. of the Duke of Buck- ingham, now the town-residence of the King. It s a quadrangle, with Throne Eoom, Grand Saloon, and othor halls, and a Picture Gallery^ containing hundreds of old j)aintings. In the rear are large gardens.

Regent-St., containing the finest shops in Lon- don, and many hotels and clubs, is 1 M. long, and leads from Pall Mall to Oxf ord-St.

JPicoadilly, a Paris- like street, runs from Hay- market to Hyde Park (1 M.), by Geological Museum (10-5, on member's introduction); St. James^& Ch., built by Wren; the houses of the Eoyai, Geo- logical, Antiquarian, Astronomical, and Chemical Societies; the Royal Academy of Arts (many rare paintings); London UniveisBity, with statues; Dev- onshire House, famous in art; and other palaces of the nobility. Green Park bounds one side of Piccadilly. In The Albany d^4t Byron, Bulwer, Monk Lewis, and Macaulay.

Oxford-St. li M. from HoTborn to Hyde Park, passes Bloomsbury, Eussell, Cavendish, Hanover and Bedford Sqs. , with their displays of statuary, and crosses Eegent-St. and New Bond-St. , famous for fine shops. The British Museum (open daily, free, from 10 a.m. till dusk) is near iiev/ Oxford-

14S ENGLAND.

St. , and contains one of the grandest collections in the world. Here are the Elgin Marbles, from the Athenian Parthenon; hundreds of Greek and Koman sculptures, and statuary; reliefs from Baby- lon, Nineveh, and Nimroud; 6 rooms full of Egyp- tian antiquities, MSS,, jewels, statues, etc. ; hun- dreds of Greek, Etruscan, and Eoman bronzes; antiquities of the flint, Celtic, Koman, Saxon, and mediaeval ages in England. The Reading Room (open only to students, apply in writing to librarian) is a circular hall in the centre of the quadrangle, with a dome of glass and iron ; the Library contains 1,000.- 000 books. A little way N. E. is the Foundling Hospital, with pictures by Reynolds, Hogarth, etc. Services in chapel, at 11 and 3 on Sundays.-

Regent's Park (472 acres), a bit of open coun- try in a densely populated region, is li M. N. W. of Trafalgar Sq., and contains the famous Zoologi- cal Gardens, with numbers of birds and beasts, (open daily, 9 a. m. till dark, Is.; Mon., 6d. Best time to visit, 3-4). Here are the Botanical Gar- dens. Primrose Hill lies N. ; and Lord^s CtHcket Ground is W. 2-3 M. W. is Kensal- Green Cemetery, where are buried Thackeray, Leigh Hunt, Sidney Smith, Allan Cunningham, Buckle, Eastlake, Mul- ready, Mathews the actor. Leech the cartoonist, Gibson the sculptor. Cardinal Wiseman, etc.

Hyde Park (390 acres) was laid out by Henry VIII. At the N. E. gate is the Marble Arch; at the S.E., Hyde Park Corner, is another portal, opposite which stands a tall arch, which formerly bore a statue of Wellington. Rotten Row runs thence to Kensington Gate (1^ M.), and is a riding-course. The Drive, alongside, is filled with equipages. The Serpentine is an artificial pond, with pleasure- boats. Remarkable lawns and trees are seen on all

ENGLAND. 14^

sides. Kensington Gardens adjoin Hyde Park on the W"., and lead to Kensington Palace, a grim brick structure, built by William III., and the birth-place of Queen Victoria. William and Mary, Queen Anne and her consort, and George II. died here. Farther W. is Holland House, a Tudor palace built in 1607, and frequented by Cromwell and Fairfax, Wm. Penn,. Addison, William and Mary, Moore, Rogers, and Macaulay. S. of the Gardens stands the Albert Memo- rial, a superb Gothic monument, 175 ft. high, covered with statues, and composed of a Gothic canopy, under which is a colossal statue of Albert. Across the road is the vast oval amphitheatre of the Royal Albert Hall, overarched with glass, holding 8,000 people, and provided with an organ of 8,000 pipes. The Natural History Museum faces Cromwell - Road*,^ contains geological, mineralogical, botanical, and zoo- logical collections — formerly British Museum (open. 10-5, Sun. 2-5).

The South. Kensington Museum (free, Mon., Tues., Sat., 10-10 ; 6d.,Wed., Thurs., Fri., 10 a.m. till dark; §un., 2-5; restaurant and lavatories in building) is one of the richest in the world (^ hr. from Charing Cross by rly.). It was founded in 1857, and has re- ceived many generous bequests, besides $5,000,000 from Government, The first court is crowded with ar- chitectural rarities, original or in casts. The S. Court is surrounded with mosaic portraits of the 33 most famous artists, and Sir F. Leighton's famous frescos^ and contains many exquisite objects of art. The N. Court is devoted to Italian-Renaissance sculptures, al- tars, tabernacles, etc., and costly tapestries, terra-cotta work, fans, laces, and ancient musical instruments. The Cloisters contain ancient and Oriental furniture, Persian tiles, carpets, and metal-work. The National Gallery of British Art is exceedingly interest'

150 CHELSEA. — ON THE THAMES.

ing, and has the famous Cartoons of Raphael, many hundreds of choice paintmgs by Turner, Reynolds, Landseer, Leslie, Wilkie, etc.; water-colors in great variety ; and the Forster collection of autographs and MSS. The Prince Consort Gallery contains mediaeval works of art in gold, brass, and steel, silver-gilt, enamel, and ivory. Tlie Keramic Oallery\\2i^ Palissy, Majolica, Spanish, Wedgwood, Dresden, Sevres, and other wares, in great variety. The Patent-Office Museum adjoins this building.

Between Hyde Park and the Thames are Belgravia and Chelsea, the former containing many fine streets, inhabited by rich families, and the latter being noted mainly for its Hospital for old soldiers, built by Wren.

Down the Thames. — Many dingy little steamers ply on the Thames, touching every 10 min. at West- minster. Charing Cross, Blackfnars, St. Paul's, etc. (fares, l-2d.). Their focal point is London Bridge, whence larger boats depart for Greenwich (3-4d.), Woolwich, and the sea. You pass the Tower, St. Catherine's Docks, London Docks, the Isle of Dogs, the Surrey, Commercial, and W. India Docks. Below Greenwich the river is dull. The journey

Up the Thames gives fine view of St. Paul's on the r. ; and farther up, opposite Blackfriars, the Times newspaper offices. Thence to Waterloo Bridge, you have the Embankment on the r. Above this is the Adelphi Terrace; the Obelisk, on the r.; and passing the bridges to Charing-Cross stat. and Whitehall Stairs, you come to Westminster Bridge. On the 1. are St. Thomas's Hospital and Lambeth Palace; on the r., the Houses of Parliament and Westminster Abbey. Geft Dickens's Dictionary of the Thames (Is,}

ENGLAND. 151

Excursions in Southern England.

Windsor {Castle Inn; White Hart), 22 M. from London, may be reached by G. W. or S. W. Railway (return fares, 5s, 6d., 4s. 3d.). The superb state apartments are open Mon., Tues., Thurs., Fri., Sat., on presentation of tickets (adults Is., children 6d.); when the King is at home, they are not shown. (Buy Companion through the State Apartments, Id.) The cas- tle stands on the apex of a hill, and may be seen from afar. Here William the Conqueror built a residence.. Edward III. was born in Windsor ; and Geoffrey Chaucer, the poet, once lived here. The state apartments are at the N. side. Grand entrance of the castle, George IV.'s GatevjaT/, in the S. front, opposite the Long Walk, a fine vista of elms, 3 M. long. Yisitors' en- trance, Henry YIII.'s gateway. Prom the Round Tower (open 11-4) 12 counties may be seen. See Waterloo Hall, fine Van Dyclcs and Kubeuses ; Chapel Royal iSt. George's (open 12-4, free), one of the finest Gothic edifices in Europe (built in 1474), with choir hung round with the banners, helmets, and insignia of the Kniglits of the Garter ; Albert Chapel, formerly Wolsey's Chapel, built by Henry YII. and reopened in 1875, superb mosaics, reredos, and cenotaph (open Wed., Thurs., Tri., and Sat.). Tine view from the Castle Terrace. Pleasant drive (7 M.) to Virginia Water {Wheatsheaf Hotel). There are 1,800 acres in the Great Park. Eton College is \ M. from Windsor. The stone chapel, 175 ft. long, is very handsome. Bronze statue of Henry VI. See the fine library and MSS. There are 1,000 students here. The college was founded in 1440. Stoke Pogis, flip scene of Gray's Elegy, and the burial-place of the

152 HAMPTON COURT. — RICHMOND.

poet, is near Windsor. Fine monument to Gray in Stolce Fark.

Hampton Court {Kings Arms; Mitre; Grey* ko2md), rly. in | lir. (13 M.), or Thames (24 M.), has an old palace covering 8 acres. It was founded by Cardinal Wolsey, then at the height of his ambition, and presented to Henry YIII., who coveted it. Here also was a favorite residence of both Charles I. and Crom- M^ell. It is now the home of pensioners of the Crown. (State-apartments open daily, except Fri,, 10-6, March • — Oct.; on Sun., 2-6.) See the Presence Chamber. Galleries of nearly 1,000 paintings, and the great Gothic Hall, hung with tapestries, and covered with a timber roof. Purchase the Strajiger's Guide (6d.), which gives full accounts.

Kew Royal Botanical Gardens (South Western Rly. ; fares. Is. 9d., Is. 4d., Is. 2d. ; time, \ hr.) contain the plants and flowers of all countries. (Buy hand-book, 6d.) 3 M. from Kew is

Richmond {Star and Garter, famous for cuisine, wines, and high bills), where Edward I. founded a palace, and Queen Elizabeth died. Fine view from Richmond Hill. The Park (2,255 acres) belongs to the Crown and is open to the public. James Thomson and Edmund Kean are buried in the eh. The King, when Prince of Wales, sometimes lived at the White Lodge. Park stocked with deer. The footpaths on either shore afford exquisite views. At Twickenham see Orleans Hoiise, the former residence of Louis Phi- lippe ; ch. in which Pope is buried ; and Strawberrif Hill, Horace Walpole's villa.

The Crystal Palace, on high ground at Sydenham, was erected 1853-4, at a cost of $7,500,000.^ Do not fail to see it. Return fares, including admission (every day except Sat., when admission is 2s. 6d.), 3s., 2s. 3d.j

ENGLAND. 153

Is. 9d. You can go from London Bridge, Victoria, Kensiiigton, Holborn, or Ludgate Hill stats. The Aqnaiiuni, the Aviary, the wonderful Architectural Courts, th.tr Picture Gallery, are worth insjjection. Gardens very Ane; fireworks on summer evenings. Good restaurantb attached. (Guide-books, Id,, 3d., Is.). The central hall :s 1,608 ft. long, crossed by transepts.

The Alexandra Palace and P?,rk are 6 M. N. of London; J hr. from Kings Cross. Admission, Is. It is rectangular, with corner towers, covei» 7^ acres ; and the grounds cover 480 acreb. Cee music hall (seating 12,000), with large organ.

Ely. from Alexandra to Highgate (2 r^.), in whose picturesque cemetery lie Faraday, S. T. Coleridge, Lor5. Lindhurst, and George Eliot. It is an easy walk to Hampstead Heath, 240 acres of breezy hi^hltiud park, once famous for its highwaymen, and aow visited for its beautiful views of London. In Hamp- etead Ch., Sir James Mackintosh, Joanna Baillie anc Constable, the painter, are buried.

Dulwich, ^ hr. by rly. from Victoria station (open daily, 10-4), has paintings purchased for King Stan- islaus of Poland, but given to God's Gift College^ Works of Murillo, Teniers, Rembrandt, Cuyp, Rubens, Van Dyck, Velazquez, and Titian. Portrait of Mrs. Siddons, by Sir Joshua Reynolds.

Greenwich Hospital (6M. from Charing Cross; fares. Is., 9d., 6d.; time i h. Or by steamer in 1 hr. from London Bridge; fares, 6d., 4d.), formerly fo-r disabled seamen of the Royal Navy, on site of palace where Henry VIII. was born, where he married Ann*;. Boleyn, and where Edward VI. died. Now occupied by the Royal Naval College. The Painted Hall i& open daily at 10 and on Sundays at 2. The Museun of Naval Architecture and the Cliapel are open daily, except on Fri. and Sun., from 10 till dark.

154 ST. ALBANS.- PUTNEY.- MARGATE.

Greenwich Park (174 acres) contains some fine old elms, planted in the time of Charles II. On a little hill stands the Royal Observatory, built in 1675.

Harrow-on-the-Hill is 11^ M. (|- hr.) from Lon- don. Harrow Ch. stands on an isolated hill, whence grand panorama. Harrow is the location of the second leading public school in the kingdom (founded 1571). In the old schoolroom the names of Byron, Robert Peel, Sheridan, Palmerston, and others are carved on the panels. See the Chapel and the School Lihrary.

St. Albans, 21 M. out (^ - 1 hr.), has a noble 'Sov- msiiiAhbey Oh., founded by Offall., King of Mercia, in 795 ; rebuilt 1077-88, and made a cathedral in 1877. It is 425 ft. long, and has a massive tower (whence fine view) ; the shrine of St. Alban, the protomartyr of England (a. d. 324); and quaint old chantries and stained windows. 2 battles occurred here in the Wars of the Roses. In St. MichaeVs Ch. Bacon is buried. See Roman walls, Gatehouse, and Clock To'Lver.

Putney {Star and Garter) is quickly reached by steamboat or by rly. Gribbon was born, and Pitt died here. At Chiswick Fox and Canning died, and Ho- garth is buried. Opposite Putney is Fulham, with a fine old palace and park of the Bishops of London. Lovely river-scenery in this region. To the S. is Wim- hledon, with famous rifle-ranges. Norwich, 126|- M. from London (fares, 21s., 16s., 10s. lOd.) has many quaint old buildings and chs., a lofty castle, and a splendid ISTorman cathedral (founded in 1096). Col- chester and Ipsivich, with their fine relics of mediae- valism, may be visited on the way to Harwich.

Margate {C liftonville Hotel; White Hart; York), 72 M. from London, is thronged with visitors in sum- mer. Pier 900 ft. long. Principal chs. : St. John's, Trinity, St. Paul's. Ramsgate, ^ M. S., is rather

ENGLAND. 155

more aristocratic. Season from June to Nov. Bathing good. Fme pier, commenced in 1750. Eastbourne {Burlington Hotel; Anchor; Albion), 65 M. from London (express, 16s., 13s., 9s. 6d., 5s.), is a favorite watering-place. Grand Parade faces the sea.

Hastings (^i^ee?i's, very large; Albioti; Grand; Marine) is 76 M. from London (return fares, 25s., 20s.) "St, Leoiiard's-on-Sea," the Belgravia of Hastings (J.?- exandra; Royal Victoria; i^oy«T>S'aa;o?i)isthe jprettiest watering-place in Sussex. Fine beach, and a pleasant esplanade, with splendid line of houses fronting the sea for 3 M. Castle may be visited. Good view of the old town from the Sea Cliffs or the Pier (900 ft. long). Pavilion, first-class baths, aquarium, reading- rooms, here. Excursions should be made to Battle Abbey, 8 M. ; Bexhill, 5 M. ; Catsfield, 3 M. At Battle {Railway Hotel; George), battle of Hastings was fought. The grand ruins of Battle Abbey are open Tuesday, 12-4.

Brighton. — It is pleasant to go by a 4-horse coach (tri-weekly, in 6 hrs., 15s.) from the Wliite Horse Cellar, in Piccadilly, to Old Ship Hotel, Brighton. Kly,,li-hr. ; return fares, 17s. 6d., 12s. 6d. Principal hotels on sea-front : Grand, Bedford, Norfolk, Royal, Crescent, Albion, Old Ship, MarJcwelFs,, Queen's, Albemarle, Bristol. Many boarding-houses. Brighton is London by the sea. The attraction is the fine sea,-front of 3 M. long. The Brighton Grand Aquarium is the largest in the world. On the E. part of the Promenade was the Chain Pier^ now destroyed. The W. Pier is opposite Regency- Square. Music on the piers. The Royal Pavilion, begun in 1784 by the Prince of Wales, is now owned by the town, and used for public balls, etc. Library and Picture Gallery here. Near are South Downs, 55 M. in length, with a breadth of 4^ M. Tun- bridgeWens((7a^yer^2// Earls Court; Grand; Sp(^)As

156 SOUTHAMPTON.— WINCHESTER.

a popular inland watering-place, with chalybeate springs. Bayham Abhey ruins near by. A pleasant excursion may be made along the South Coast from Brighton to Portsmtinth {George Hotel ; Bedford; Sussex), very important; naval station. See the Dockyards (open 10-12, 1-3); order from Admiralty obligatory for foreigners. Off the Dockyard lies the Victory, the old wooden ship in which Nelson died, Southsea (Queen^s; Esplanade) is a fashionable watering-place near by. See the Common, the Bier, the Esplanade, From Portsmouth passengers may em- bark for the Isle of Wight, Portsmouth is 72 miles from London (fares, 15s. 6d., 10s. lOd., 6s. 2d.),

Southampton {S. - Western ; Badley''s; Dolphin; Royal), an important steamship station, 78f M, from London (fares, 15s. 6d., lis., 6s. 6d.). Boats for the Channel Islands, Harwich, the Isle of Wight, America and India. In Blue Anchor Lane is King John''s Palace, one of the oldest houses in Englano, Excursion to lovely Netley Abhey, 3 M. (open Mon., Tues., Wed., Fri,, and Sat.). You may next go to Salisbury {Wliite Hart Hotel; Red Lion; Three Swaiis; Angel), which contains a noble Cathedral^ among the very first in England. It was founded in 1220, and was the first great English church in the Pointed Style. Exquisite spire, the highest in Eng- land (404 ft.). Cloisters, Chapter-House, and Nave very noticeable. Sculptures in Chapter-House from Old* Testament history. Statue of Sydney Herbert in the market-place. See Blackmore Museum, Ex- cursions to Stonehenge, 9 M. N., vast ruins of a Druidic sanctuary ; Wilton House (3 M.), with fine paintings; SinA Longford Castle.

Winchester ( Oeorge Hotel; Royal; Black Swan) is one ot the great historical cities of England. The Cathedral (1079-1148), 560 ft. long, nave 265 ft., is the prmcipal attraction. Architecture of Nave very

ENGLAND 157

curious. See JIural Monuments, Font and Chan- try. In the Central Lady Chapel Queen Mary was married to Philip of Spain, in 1554. See Castle, and make excursion to Hospital of St. Cross; admission 6d. Fares to London, 66i M., 13s. lOd., 9s. 9d., 5s. 6d.

The Isle of Wight may be reached from South- a,rapton by steamers to Cowes (in | hr.), or to Ryde. Trains run between R.yde and Ventnor, with branch to Newport, and between Ryde and Cowes. The Isie is 22^ Mo long and 14 M. broad. Ventnor and the Under Cliff are recommended to invalids. In summer secure rooms in advance. Ryde (Royal Pier; Es- planade; Marijie) has fine pier, school of art, museum. It is 12 M. to Ventnor, through delightful scenery. On the route is Sandown {Sandowti House; Ocean; York), fashionable resort. Sands and bathing good. Shankiin {Daish's Hotel; HolUer's) is a picturesque village. The Chine, near by, is a ro- mantic ravine. Bonchurch, 11 M. from Ryde, is very beautiful ; John Sterling is buried here. Ventnor {Royal; Marine; Queen'' s; Esplanade ; Crah and Lobster) is much frequented. Fares from London to Ventnor, 21s. 2d., 15s. Id., lis. Return tickets (good for 8 days), 35s. 9d., 26s. 6d., 19s. 9d. Near by are Norris Castle and Osborne House, presented by the King to the nation for a convalescent home. Newport is 1 M. from Carisbrooke Castle, a grand historic ruin.

Bath {Grand Pu?np Room; York; Empire; Pult- eney) has most sumptuously appointed warm baths in Europe. It is a city of 53,000 inh., on the Avon, and once famous as the home of Beau Nash, and the scene of Miss Austen's novels. See the stately Abbey Ch. (1499); Beckford's Tower and tomb; the Gruildhall; and many fine residences and parks. Excursions to .Prior Park, Lansdoivn Hill, Hampton Down, and 'ruins of Hinton Abbev. From Bath it is 114- M. to

158 BRISTOL. — CARDIFF. —WELLS.

Bristol {Royal Hotel; Grand; George), the capital of the W. of England, and a very ancient city. It is on the Avon, 7 M. from the sea. Fine docks at the river's mouth. See St. Mary RedcUffe Ch., very lovely ; the Cathedral ^1140), with tombs of Bishop Butler and Jane Porter, fine cloisters and chapter- house ; College Gate; the Mayor's Ghapel (1220); Bris- tol Museum; Glifton, a beautiful suburb; the Sus^mi- sion Chain Bridge (get the views); Nightingale VaU ley; and Zoological Gardens. Excursions to Blaise Castle; and George MuUer's Orphan Asjjlum (2050 children) at Ashley Station.

From Bristol you may cross the BHstol Channel to Cardiff {Uoyal Hotel ; ParU; Angel), a very important Welsh port. See Btde Docks; the Castle; and Sophia Park, ijscursioiis to Caerphilli/ Castle ; Llanda^ (with grand old Cathedral); Llanwit; and St. Bonafs. From Cardiff you can make an excursion through S. Wales, and it will richly repay. Fares from Cardiff to Loudon (170^ M.), 33s. 6d., 25s.; from Bristol to London (118i;M.), 26s. Id,, 18s. 3d.

Bevonshire is one of the most interesting parts of England. Tourists can reach Exeter from London in 4-5 hrs. (distance, 171^ M. ; fares, 35s., 25s., 14s. 3^d.). Or they may go from Bristol to Exeter by "Wells (Swan Hotel ; Star; Mitre^, which is a perfect eccle- siastical city, with a moated Bishop's Palace, an em« battled Beanery^ and a quaint Vicar s Close. The venerable Cathedral is very rich in sculptures, and in every way impressive. Superb Chapter-House. (See local guides.) Glastonbury {George Hotel ; Red Lion) has a ruined Alihey, one of the earliest centres of Christianity in England. King Arthur was buried here. The George Inn was a hostelry for pilgrims in Edward IV. 's time. This is the ancient Isle of Avalon. Get Williamson'' s Guide, Is. See St. John's and St.

ENGLAND 159

Benedict's Chs. Exeter (Eougemojif; Clarence; JVeio London; IIaIf-Moo7i) has gr-dnd CathedraLbnilt 1107- 120o,with interesting chapels, Minstrels' Gallery choir, close, and far- viewing tower; the Castle, Norman ruins ; the Elizabethan Guildhall ; Albert Museum. Plymouth (i)it/ve of Cornwall; ChuhVs; Royal) is rich fn objects of interest. Seethe Hoe, St. Andrew'' s Ch.j the Neio Gidldhall, Atherimum, Raglan Barracks, the Demnport Column. The Eddystone LiglitliO"use is 14 M. from Plymouth ; excursion by steamer, Tor- quay {Imperial; Royal; Belgrave), is a famous water- ing-glace. See the Bay, where the Prince of Orange landed in 1688; Tor Abbey, the Ch., and the Museum. Beautiful drives and walks. Fares to London (220 M.), 40s. 2d. , 28s . 5d. , 16s. S^d. Get guides of Devon Coast and Cornwall. Penaance [Queen's Hotel) is 328 M. from London (fares, 63s. 6d., 44s, 6d., 26s. 6|-d.),

B,outes to the Continemi

Quickest Koutes. — Via Dover and Calais ,* 22 M. across Channel. To Paris, 283 M.. (fares, £3, £2 5s.). Day service: leave London 8 a. m.; arrive at Paris 4.30 p. M. Night service : leave London 8.05 p. m.: reach Paris 6 a. m. — Via Folhestone and Boulogne, day tidal service : London to Paris, 255 M, ; Channel passage, 28 M. in 2 hrs. (Fares, £2 16s., £2 2s.; time, 8|- hrs.) There is a cheap night service to Paris via Boulogne or Calais (fares, 2d class 31s. 6d., 3d class \ 21s.). Return tickets, express route, via Dover and 1 Calais, or Folkestone and Boulogne, £4 15s., £3 15s.; by night service, 47s., 31s. 6d. You will pass, by South {Eastern, Chiselhurst, where Napoleon III. died, and |where he and his son Louis are buried ; and by Chat- jham and Dover, you pass Rochester, which has an jantique Norman Cathedral, with interesting chapels

160 ROCHESTER.-CANTERBU R Y.-DO VER.

and the ruins of a powerful Norman castle, with beautiful environs, including Dickens's old home, Oad/s Hill. Just beyond is Chatham, with import- ant dockyards.

Canterbury {Fountain, County, Flev,r-de-Lys). The ancient Merceri/ Lane leads to the famous Cathedral, built 1070-1184, 522 ft. long, with remarkable chapels, monuments, crypts, cloisters, and a very beautiful an(^ lofty central tower. See ,6'^. AugustAnes College for missionaries, iu the rains of the ancient abbey. Thomas ^ Becket was killed in the cathedral, and the Black Prince is buried there. At Folkestone {Pavilion Hotel ; Grand ; Metropole) the train stops near the steamers. Dover {Lord Warden Hotel; Dover Castle; Burli7ig- ton) is worth half a day's stay. The Castle was nearly destroyed by fire in 1897. The Piers and Shakespeare's Cliff {v. King Lear) deserve attention. Routes Longer and Less Expensive. — Via Newhaoen and Dieppe (day and night boats iu summer, tidal service). Fares, tickets good for 7 days, 33s., 34s., 17s. Time, 12-13 hrs. Channel passage, 64 M. (5|-7 hrs.).^F2(« Southampton and Hacre: Mon.j Wed., and Fri. (fares, 33s., 24s.). Boats leave South- ampton at 11.45 P.M. Channel and river passage tc Havre, 8|-9 hrs.— From London Bridge, across the Channel to Boulogne. — From Dover to Ostend, for those going to Belgium. London to Ostend, 37s. 5d., 26s. 7d. Channel passage, 68 M. (4 hrs.).— From London, via Harwich, to Rotterdam or Antwerp. Leave London at 8 p. m.; Harwich, 10 p. m. ; reach Rotterdam 9 a. m, Antwerp boat leaves at same time ; reaches Antwerp 10 a. m. London to Ant- werp or Rotterdam, 26s., 21s., 15s. Returns, 40s., 31s. 6d., 24s. Daily service. — Fvom I-ondon, via Queensborongh, to Fiushing daily.

NORTHERN FRANCE. 161'

JSrORTHERN FRANCE.

ipHE Ports of Entry in France at which you •^ may arrive from England are described below,

Calais [Hotel Terminus; Londres ; Sauvage) may be seen in 2-3 hrs. The Citadel (1560); the Fortes Roy ale, du Havre, and de la Mer; the old bastion called Le Courgain, are very curious. The English held Calais from 1347 to 1558, when France regained possession. Mary Tudor said the name Calais Avould be found writ- ten on her heart. The Ch. of Notre Dame, with a pic- ture by Rubens ; the Hotel de Ville, on the Place d' Amies ; the old Gtiet Totoer ; and tlie Hotel de Guise (Tudor style), built by Edward III. and his successors, are the principal sights. The Hotel Bessin is mentioned in Sterne's Serdimental Jourfiey. Good sea-bathing in sum- mer. Erom Calais you may go, via Li'le, to Brussels. Boulogne {Hotel des Bains ; De la Marine ; Meu- rice; Continental; de Paris et de Boulogne; Cristol et Bristol; Louvre) is picturesque town on the Liane, where it enters the Channel. Fashionable summer re- sort. Has many English residents. The Quais; the Pier; the old fishers' town; the ancient Po7'te des Dunes, with a statue dated 1231 ; the clumsy Cathedral of Notre Bame ; the Chateau (1230), where Louis Na^ poleon was confined in 1840 ; the Hotel de Ville ; and the great Sea-Bathinq Ef<tablishment, merit notice. Le Sage, author of Gil Bias, and Godfrey de Bouillon were born here. On a hill is the Colonne de la Grande Armee, built 1804-41. Here Napoleon I. a^semb^-<id an immense army and fleet for invading England

Dieppe {Boy at, Grand, Utrangers, de Paris, Com-

W2 HAYEE.

mirce) 1^' a summer resort of the fashionable world. See the Casino, on the beach ; the great Castle (1433); fche ancient Ch. of St. Jacques, patron saint of fisher- men ; the piers ; and the Statue of Duquesne. The bathing is fairly good. A red flag is hoisted when the tide is favorable. Ruined castle of Arcques, 4 M. S. E. Carved ivory is a specialty of Dieppe.

Havre {Hdtel Frascafi ; Be Bordeaux; Aigle d'Or; Be Normandie; B Angleterre), once known as Havre de Grace, from a chapel founded by Louis XII. in 1509, is one of the most important sea- ports in Europe, About 100,000 inhab. Immense American trade. The Docks are remarkable. The Jetee du Nord commands a fine view. From the hill of /SYe. Adresse the outlook is charming. The prin- cipal things to see are : The Ch. of Notre Dame (1575); the Hotel de Ville ; the Palais de Justice ; the Grand Treatre ; the Customs Barracks; and the Museum (open Sun., Tues., and Thurs., from 10 to 4). Bronze statues (by David) of Bernardin de St. Pierre and Casimir de la Yigne, natives of Havre. Tlie Jardin Publique is pretty. Rue de Paris is the finest street. Steamers w^eekly to New York. (See Chapter on Travel.) Opposite Havre, in a pretty bend of the coast (1 hr. by steamer), is Trouville-sur-Mer {Hotel des Roches Noires, with bathing ; .De Paris; d'Angleterre; des Bains),with. fine Casino (admission 2 fr.) and beautiful beach. Great number of villas here and at Beauville. Aristocratic resort in Aug. and Sept. Near Troii ville is a cliapel in wbicli William the Conqueror offered prayer before he set out to conquer England- 1 hr. by rail from Trouville is Honjieur. Etretat, .nuch frequented by painters, and Fecamp, a great bathing resort, with a fine Casino, may be vis- ited from Havre. Eares from Havre to Paris, 28 fr. 10 c, 21 fr. 5 c., 15 fr. 45 c. You may go from Havre to

NORTHERN FRANCE. 183

Kouen by the Seine, a lovely journey, but very slow (fares, 5 fr., 4 fr.).

Rouen {Hotel d'Angleterre; de France; d'AlMon; De la Poste; Paris; Lideux) can be visited on the way to Paris from Havre or Dieppe; the commercial rival of Havre, a port of much importance; historically and architecturally one of the most attractive places in France. This ancient capital of Normandy has great cotton factories and wine depots. (105,000 inlmb.) The Cathedral of ISloire Dame is a magnificent Gotiiic edi- fice, built 1207-80. Tlie central portal on the W. was erected by Cardinal d'Ainboise, the favorite of Louis XII., about 1510. Profuse decorations in liorid style. The Butter Tower {Tour de Beurre) was built with money got from the sale of indulgences to eat butter in Lent. This is 230 ft. high, unfinished, like its twin. The central spire was destroyed by lightning in 1822, and replaced by an ugly cast-iron structure, 465 ft. high. Spiral staircase to the top. The facade (16th century) contains many remarkable statues and bits of sculptures. In the venerable Tour St. Roiuain is a charming 15th-century hall. See the Choir ; the 25 chapels ; the beautiful stained windows, especially the rose windows in the nave and transepts ; the chaoel S. of the nave, which contains the tomb of Hollo, the first Duke of Normandy (927) ; and the chapel oppo- site, ni M^iicli William of the Long Sword (d. 943) is buried. In the Ghapelle du Christ, near the High Altar, is a mutilated limestone figure, 7 ft. high, of Richard Coeur de Lion. The heart of the great king is buried in the Choir. Henry II. of England is buried here. The monument to Due de Breze, erected by his wife, Diana of Poitiers, mistress of Henri II. Also one to Cardinal d'Amboise is in this chapel The r;a£hedral was begun in the reign of Jean sans Terre,

164 ROUEN.

and finished in 1477. Interior is 435 ft. long, lieiglit ot nave 89| ft., 130 windows.

The beautiful Ch. of St. Ouen is one of the noblest Gothic structures in Europe. It is cruciform, and dates from 1318. The portal, between two pyramidal towers, is extremely graceful. Central Tower, " the Crown of Normandy," 285 ft. higli. Interior, 443 ft. long by 83 ft. wide. 3 exquisite rose windows; 145 stained-glass windows. This ch. suffered much from tlie Iconoclasts (in 1562), as also did the bas-reliefs over the entrance of the great cathedral. The Ch. of St. Maclou (15th« 16th centuries) has a very fine stone spire, and a foun- tain by Jean Goujon. Other chs.: Si. Patricia (1535), magnificent stained glass of the 16th century, and paint- ings by Mignard and Poussin ; St. Godard, fine mural paintings ; St. Gervais, with a crypt of the 4th century. St. Vincent and St. Romain also merit a visit. The Archiepiscopal Palace (1461) and the Hotel de Ville, which is a remnant of the old Abbey of St. Ouen, should be visited (library, 120,000 vols.). In front of the Hotel de Ville is an equestrian statue of Napoleon I. Interesting statues of Corneille, Jeanne d'Arc, and G6ri. cault. Palace of Justice, {concierge shows it, If.) is a veritable Gothic chef-d''(&uvre. Tlie room in which the assizes is held has a carved oaken roof, and it was there that the Parliament of Normandy held ^*ts sessions. On the 1. of the Courtyard is a great Hall, built in 1493 as a merchants' exchange. It is now the place where lawyers meet their clients to consult. The Museum now contains hundreds of pictures by David, Delacroix, Gericault, Paul Veronese, Poussin, and other celebrated artists. Visit the Rue de la Grosse Horloge, one of the most interesting streets in the city. The old clock- tower, Math a gate beneath, dates from 1527.

The most interesting section of Rouen is tlie Place de

NORTHERN FRANCE. 165

ta PuceUe, where a fountain marks the place on which Joan of Arc is said to have been burned, in 1431. The 15th-century Hotel du Bourgtheroidde fronts on this square. Curious decorations on the tower, and bas- reiiefs, one of which shows the Field of the Cloth of Gold. In the Rue Jeanne d'Arc is a Tower (built 1205), subsequently named after the maid, and sup- posed to have been her prison. The Museum of An- tiquities and the Museum of Natural History are in an old convent near the Place Beauvoisine. The town is rich in old houses with timber-fronts.

The Seine here is a large river, navigable for most ships, and bordered by fine quays. The Coiu's Bdiel' dieu has a statue of Boieldieu, the composer, a native of Rouen. The Seine is crossed by a bridge, adorned with a Statue of Corneille ; and by a suspension bridge, at whose end is a Monument to the Abbe de la Salle.

The surrounding country is extremely beautiful. Climb tlie adjacent lulls, especially to the Pilgrimage Ch. of Bon-Secours, 2 M. out. Dehglitful view over Normandy. The service in the ch. is peculiar. Many pretty excursions by steamer on the Seine. Visit the Chateau of Robert le Liable, near La Bouille. From Rouen to Paris the fares are 16 fr. 75 c, 12| fr., 9 fr. 20 c. Rouen may be easily visited in a day from Paris (fares, 16| fr., 12. | fr., 9 fr. 20 c), returning in the afternoon. At Mantes — called "beautiful Mantes" — is the Gothic Ch. of Notre Dame, of the 12th century, richly sculptured. Junction here for Caen and Cher- bourg. Farther on is Poissy, the birthplace of St. Louis, a lovely town on the Seine, and a favorite resort of artists (great prison here) ; the Forest of St. Germain^ through which the line passes ; Colombes ; St. Germaifi, with its palace, may be seen on the r. ; and Asnieres, a Varisian suburb, inhabited by commercial people.

166 AMIENS. — ABBEVILLE. — AEKAb,

Amiens {Hotel de V Unimrs / Du Rhin) is a great Snanufacturiiiii' tov/n (80,000 inhab,), once the capital of Picardy. See Gothic Cathedral, erected 1220-88, and one of tlie finest in Europe. The spire (422 ft. Iiigh) was restored in 1529. The W. fayade is one of the most beautiful that can be imagined. The 2 towers are decorated with many statues and medallions. In i\\Q Porche du Sauveur is a magnificent statue of Christ, commonly called Le Beau Bleu d' Amiens. Eew cathe- dral interiors excite such lively admiration for pro- digious vaults, lightness of the colunrns, and astonishing variety of lines. The nave is 147 ft. high, and 126 columns support its airy vaulting. See organ gallery (1422); 110 stalls in the choir, with 3,650 figures; superb rose-window ; stained-glass windows ; and the great number of monuments and chapels. The choir- wall is adorned with reliefs from the history of John the Baptist and the life of St. rirmin. Length of the cathedral, 469 ft.; of transept, 213 ft.; width of nave, 144 ft.; towers, 181 ft. and 210 ft. In the rear is a statue of Peter the Hermit, a native of Amiens, who preached the Pirst Crusade. The Picardy Mmeum con- tains interesting pictures. The new Palace of Justice^ and the Prefecture, which has a 15th-century belhtower, should be seen. About midway between Amiens and Boulogne is Abbeville, which contains many odd 15tb and 16th century houses ; also the Gh. of St. Vulfran, and a statue to the composer Lesueur. Pares from Amiens to Paris, 16 fr. 10 c, 12 fr. 10 c, 8 fr. 85 c. Rly. connec- tion from Amiens with Arras, Douai, and Lille.

Arras {Hotel de V Univers ; Gomrnerce) has a double line of fortifications ; a citadel constructed by Vauban in 1670; and a cathedral, which was the old Ch. of the Abbey of St, Vaast. Within it are seen fine pictures attributed to Rubens and Van Dyck; and the treasury

NORTHERN FRANCE. 167

contains the robe that Thomas a Beclcet wore when he was assassinated. The great square of Arras is a fine ilhistration of the pictorial style which prevailed during the Spanish domination. Miisetim and Public Library. The coast line of N. France is dotted with pleasant summer-resorts and picturesque towns, old and new. From Paris to Cherbourg (fares, 45 fr. 70 c, 34 fr. 25 c, 25 fr. 10 c), via Caen, is a journey through the inter- esting Norman towns of Evreux (fine cathedral, 11th century, restored in the 18th) ; Lisieux (cathedral^ 1136-1233, in which Henri II. was married, 1152)'; and Caen {Hotel d' Angleterre ; IfEspagne), population 41,181, the town of which Madame de Sevigne said tiiat it was the source " de lous nos plus beaux esprits." View from the heights very imposing. See St. Etienne and Trinite Chs. ; the G/idteau, founded by William the Conqueror ; the Hotel de Ville, decorated with medalUons of celebrated Normans ; the Museum (400 paintings) ; the Academy ; the Hotel de Valois / and the Place de la Repuhlique. You can reach Caen from Havre by steamer (6 fr.7 5 fr.), and go thence to Cherbourg ; and thence up to Paris, if de- sired. Cherbourg y^Hotel de France; de VAviiraute et de V Europe), a city of 37,000 inliab., on die peninsula of Cotentin, is the first military port in France, and a very important fortress. There is little to see beside the docks and fortifications ; and, in the Museum, a portrait of Leonardo da Yinci, painted by himself. Fine casino. Granville, farther down on the coast, is the port whence the steamers sail for the Channel Islands. Fares from Paris to Granville, 46 fr. 40 c, 36 fr. 30 c., 22 fr. 20 c. Still farther down is Mt. Saint Michel, an imposing granite rock, 2,700 ft. around and nearly 200 ft. high, connected with the coast by a dike. The sea surrounds it '< ' hisrh tide. The rock is

168 PARIS.

surmounted by immense fortifications, an abbey, an(f i, ch., with a statue of St. Michael. Pilgrimages have been made here since Louis XI. created St. Micaael's Order, in 1469. St. Malo, near by, was the birth- place of Chateaubriand, and Jacques Cartier, the pioneer in Canada. Dinan is a pretty little town, with old walls and a 15th-century castle. Great numbers of English people winter here. Dinarcl, 4 M. from St. Malo, has a fine bathing establishment. The line to Brest is close by. Brest, population 66,000, is a military port and fortress. Vast marine hospital, and barracks. Formidable batteries. Eares, Brest to Paris, 75 fr. 10 c, 56 fr. 35 c, 41 fr. 35 c. On the way see Chartres {^Hotel de France; J)u Grand Monarque), an ancient city, with celebrated Cathedral, the towers of which can be seen for 25 M, Upon this noble Gothic ch., which was 160 years in building, there are many thou- ' sands of statues ; there are 50 bas-reliefs in the choir, and marvellous stained windows of the 12th and 13th centuries. Henri IV. was consecrated in this ch. in 1594. 2 spires, one 371 ft., the other 340 ft. high. There is a Black Virgin here, much adored. The Crypt is beautiful. Many odd 13th-century houses here. Gen. Marceau was a native of Chartres. The MuseuTi, contains a noted picture representing his funeral.

Paris.

Paris, with the exception of the old sections, is a very easy city in which to find one's way about. In summer street-merchants are always at your elbow with very good maps, "with which you can explore the capital, even if you know no French. If you arrive at the Gnre du Nord (N. Rly. stat.), and are not encum- bered with baggage, walk dowii^the Rue at Lafayette

PAEIS. 169

to the Grand Opera and the Bouleva-fd Haiissmann ; then turn up the Rue Scribe to the main boulevards, and you will find yourself in the centre of Paris. If you come in from Normandy, you will arrive at the Oare St. Lazare, but a short walk from the boule- vards. In the Stat, your baggage is examined both for general customs and octroi duties. Spirits and cigars are the only things about which the officers are strict. A porter will take your trunk or valises, call a cab, install you in it, give you a little card with the cab's number on it, and for this expects about 50 c. (10 cts.). If you have a party, and several large trunks, charter a small private omnibus (always plenty). One that will hold 6 persons costs 6 f r. , and no extra charge is made for a reasonable amount of baggage. Driver expects fee.

Cabs ( Voitures) — The cab system of Paris is simple and covenient. From 6 a.m. until 12.30 p.m. a 1-horse open or closed carriage for 2 persons costs, according to legally established tariff, l-^-f r. for single drive ; gvsi- tuitj (pourboire), rendered obligatory by custom, 25c. ; by hr., 2fr. Prom 12.30 night until 6 a.m. the tariflp is for 2 -seated cabs, 2Jfr, per drive, 2iti\ per hr. ; 4- seated, 2^tr. per drive, 2ffr. per hr. The whole of a first hr. (when you engage by the hr.) must always be paid ; ^ hrs. thereafter, 50c. each. Baggage (out- side), 25c. per piece. Livery-stable rates per day and per month for carriages are rather high from May to Aug ; with a little care a good open carriage for two (driver in livery) may be had for 25-30ir. per day; gratuity to driver.

The taximeter is now in almost universal use. The charges are: For 1200 metres, or 9 min., 75c. ; every additional 400 metres, or 3 min., 10c. ; for passing the fortifications, 50c.; leaving cab outside fortifications, If r. For night service (after midnight) there is an ad- ditional charge of 50c. Tip driver at rate of 50c. per nr., but never less tlian }ioc. lor any uiive or uistauce.

170 PARIS

Street-Cars (called tramways) run on most of the great

tlioroughfares, except the grand boulevards. 'L'hej aie double. decked; the large ones are very tine. Go to the suburbs upon them rathe^r than by rail or in private carriage. Om- nibuses abound ; there are 32 liues. A full fare paid on ®nc procures you. a corrfsjiondance gratis on another,, imtii you have reatdicd your destination. Fares inside, 30 c. ; above, outside, 15 c. On some streets the tramway cars are moved by steam. On the Seine there are a great many small steamers., fnjlpfi mnnaJip.'^ •i\wi[ himnrlpHes, "flies" and "*■ swallows." TMe Metropolitan underground rlyo is con= venient. The Ccintxire is the name of the railv/ay which runs around Paris, within the walls (23 M.)„ It is usefui for giving a good idea of the capital 's geography. Round trip in two hours.

Hotels.— ITo^eZ d'lena, Astoria, Place de I'Etoile; Hotel Bitz, Hotel Bristol, Place Vendome, both expen- sive, aristocratic ; Elysee Palace ; Hotel Continental; Cos- tiglione, Ruede Castiglione; Montana, Ruede i'Echelle; Voiiillemont ; Hotel du Louvre, Rue de Rivoli ; Grand Hotel, Boulevard des Capucines; Terminus, Gare St. Lazare; Vendome, Place Yendome; Regina, Meurice, Windsor, Brighton, Rue de Rivoli; Grand Hotel St. James, de Lille ei d''Anbion, de Normandie, Rue St. Honore; Westvni'Jister,, Miraheau, Splendide, Rue de la Paix; de Londres, Domi' nici, Liverpool, Rue Castiglione; Chatham, de VEmpiy^e, de VAmiraute, d^Orient, Rue Daunou (Rue Neuve St. Au. gustin); Normandy, des Deux Mondes, and Binda, in the^ Avenue de I'Opera; du Palais, Cours La Reine; d^JLlbe, Avenue de I'Alma; de St. Petershourg, Rue Caumartin; de VAthenee, Rue Scribe ; de Bade, Boulevard des ItaL iens ; de la Terrasse Jouffroy, Boulevard Montmartre ; de Baviere, Rue du Conservatoire ; des Amhassadeurs, Rue de Lille ; de Londres, Rue Bonapartej du Senat, Rue de Tournon. More modest hotels ai'e Hotel d'' Oxford et de Camhridge; de la Tamise, Rue d'Alger; de la Couronne, Rue du Dauphin; Trots Princes, Rue Neuve des Petits Champs; d'Antin, Rue d' Antin; Helder, Rue du Helder; Byron, Rue

til

de

U}

n;

©c yo ab m( srr

ot, V(

n fc ti

E

sr, ti{ F( B.

B'

ei

M ni de

A

A dt ie B d( T( C( di

PABIS. 171

Laffitte ; Du Canada, Rue de Choiseul ; De France, Rue de Beaune ; Des Etrangcrs, Rue Racine.

Boarding-Houses (or Pensimis) .—Ot these there are many. Prices, 10-15 francs daily. We give the ad- dresses of a few : Madame Barbier, 42 Quai des Orffevres; Madame Russell, 6 Square de l'0p6ra; M. and Mme. Pincet, 35 Rue Cambon ; Mrs. Defone, 52Ms Boulevard Haussmann ; Prof. Tonnst, same address ; Mme. Starck, 30 Rue Bassano ; Hotel Campbell, 61 Avenue de Fried- land ; American Pension, 7 Avenue du Trocadero ; the Misses McDonnell, 90 Rue de la Pompe ; Hotel Dijon, 39 Rue 0«^jmartin. Furnished single rooms can be had in all quarters of Paris, at from 40 to 135 francs per month. Furnished suites of rooms (in French, apartcnient signi- fies a sai^e) from 250 francs per month upwards. Always inquire particularly aboiit extras, even in the best pen- sions, otherwise you may be surprised when the bill is presented. ^

Restaurants and Cafes.— Cafe de Londres, Boulevard Madeleine, 25 ; Cafe Anglais, 13 Boulevard des Italiens ; Cafe Biche, 16 same street ; Maison Doree, 20 same street; Vidal, 41 Avenue de I'Opera; Noel Peters, Passage des Princes; J5reba?xt, 31 Boulevard Poissonnifere; d%la Terrace, 30 Boulevard Bonne Nouvelle; BonvaleVs, Boulevard du Temple ,* Cafe de la Palx, near the Grand Opera ; Maire, 14 Boulevard St. Denis ; Cafe de Paris, 41 Avenue de I'Opera ; Moka, 44 and 46 Avenue Wagram ; Gaillon, Place Gaillon ; Restaurant de France, 9 Boulevari Poissonnifere ; Restaurant des Amhassadeurs, in the Charaps Elysees; Champeaux^o Place de la Bourse ; Durand, 2 Place de la Madeleine ; Magny, 3 Rue Muzet ; Foyot, 33 Rue de Tour- non; Restattrant de la Porte-Doree, Avenue Daumesnil. 275; CampelVs, 370 Rue St.-Honore. These are all d la carte. Som^ of these places are rather expensive ; the others more moderate. In the Palais Royal and the Passage des Panoramas, and on the Boulevard Mont- martre, are several restaurants where breakfasts and dinners at fixed prices may be had. At the Diner de Paris, 13 Boulevard Montmartre, breakfast is 3 f r. ; dinner,

172 PARIS

5 f r. Wine is always included in fixed-price dinners. I'lie Diner Europeen is very good : breakfast, 3 fr f dinner, 5 f r. In the Palais Royal there aremumerou<i restaurants that give breakfast at 1 f^. ,75 c. ; dinner, 2 fr, 25 c. to 2 f r. 50 c. The Duval Restaurants, or Etablissements de Bouillon, are peculiar. There is but a limited choice of dishes, but everything is well prepai'ed and moderately cheap. The Parisians break- fast 10.30-1, and dine 6-8. We calinot mention one third of the principal cafes, but will recomm'end the Cafe Anglais, Tortoni^ Q-rand, Arrnvmaiyi, HeWjer^ Madrid, Riche, Varietes, De Paris, NavoUtain. In the Bois. restaurants : Pamlloii d' Armenonville, la Ot^cade, Madrid. Ladies with escorts m&y visit most ,of the cafes mentioned above, even in the evening.

General Information. — The Ambassador of the United States is the Hon. Robert Ba&on,; the Secre- tary of Embassy is Mr. Arthur BaQlv Blanchard. The present Consul-Geaeral at Paris Ifs Mr. Frank Mason. American church serviees : Rue de Berrry, 31; Avenue de lAlma, 19 (Episcbpal).

The Latin (Quarter, S. of the Seine, has for centuries beeu devoted to universities, colleges, and schools of all kinds. Many thousands of students reside there alMhe time. The Students' Ball, called the Chserle des LUas,^t Bullier, is at the Carvi'four de V Ohservatoire. ^

There are three principal race meetings in Paris, in April, May, and September. The spectacle in the Bois de Boulogne when the Grand Frix (the principal summer race) is run, should not be missed. The principal prize is 100,000 fr.

We would suggest that yoa start from the Place de la Concorde, walk up the Rue Roy ale to tlie Cli. of the Madeleine (Magdalen), and then follow the line of the grands boulevards to tlie Place de la Bastille. You may go on an omnibus-top for S sous, or in an opcB carriage for 1 fr. 75c. ; but we say walk.

PARIS 173

Boik,^vard des Capucines (this is mid -Paris; here are the Grand Hotel, the Opera, the Grand' Cafe, the Jockey Club, and the Bue Scribe) ; Des lialiens (ji^lliant with theatres and restaurants) ; Montmartre (splendid cafes and shops) ; Poissoniere ; Bonne-Nouvelle ; St. Denis (see the old city gates, \^ery fine}; St. Martin ; J)u Temple ; Des Fille's du CaU vaire ; ^Beaumarchms, — and you are at the Bastille, i. e. th^quare' wliere the celebrated prison stood. Whole lengtW" tijis'hne of streets, 2f M. Return by the Rue SfAntoine, and the Rue de Rivoli, past the Tii^ieries, to the Place de la Concorde, whence yon started.^ The exteriot boulevards run from near the Arc de TrjomphAat the Ternes, around to the quays of Bercy on thj^SSeine, through La Yillette and Belle- ville, the W(di1^^yij.% quarters. Tramways here. The Boulevard's^'dit^Strasbourg, Sebastopol, Du Palais, and St. ]\(y^li'eWorm a coni^uous avenue from the Eastern Rly. st^t. across tlieAity to the Observatory. A walk from "one end to H^e other is extremely interesting. A Jv;isit to one of'' tile "cabarets artistiques," which hiive reeent^i^pru^ig up in Montmartre. is well worth whili^^ee description in "Paris-Parisien," an excelienr^kide to these and other noteworthy sights -dlfParisr^fc

Th.Q Iste de la Cite on which Paris began, should have an early visit. Notre Dame, the cathedral of the Archbishop of Paris, was built in 1163-82, on the site of a 4th-century ch. It is 417 ft. long, 156 wide, and 110 high. Twin lowers, 264 ft The fa9ade (13th century) ,> with its rich Gothic sculptures and crowds of statuary over the portals, is very imposing. The carvings over the central entrance represent the Lasi

174 NOTRE DAME-PALACE DE JUSTICE

Judgment. Entrance by 1. portal. In the Revolu- tion, in 1793 the ch. was converted into a " Temple of Reason." During the Commune it v/as a military depot. Most of the sculptures were broken at the time of the Revolution. Choir completed, 12th cen- tury ; W. portion, in 13th, The interior, with its nav& and double aisles, is majestic. Many famous prelates are buried in the choir-chapels. 75 pillars support the vaulting. Splendid rose-windows in fh^ transept. 37 chapels. Fine pulpit, by VioUet-le-Duc, in the nave. The Treasury (fee, \h?) may be inspected. The robei in which Archbishop Darboy was shot by the Com,, munists is shown. To ascend the towers (fee, 20c.)j go round to N . side of 1. front tower, and ring the bell. In the S. tower is the huge Bourdon bell. Note the curiously carved figures of men and animals on the roof. The effect of the flying buttresses below is very strik* ing. See Victor Hugo's Notre' Dame de Paris, for an eloquent description of the cathedral. The view from the towers is the best in Paris. In a bright summer-day it IS bewildering, from its very vastness. Just behind Notre Dame is the Morgue, or Dead House, m'\\qtq you may view unclaimed bodies. It is open to the pubhc. Prom the cathedral's top observe the new Hotel Dieu^ an immense hospital ; the Fontaiyie Notre Dante, the Place du Parois, and the Flower Market. The old Ho- tel Dieu (660) has been demolished.

While you are in the Cite, go to see the Palais de Justice (magnificent new additions) ; and the prison of the Conciergerie,yvh.QYQ Marie Antoinette and so man^? other victims of the Revolution were imprisoned. The, Palais de Justice is open daily, except Sundays ; and here most of the Courts of Justice may be visited (guide, 1-2 fr.). The Cour d'Honneur is very fine* The great Salle des Pas-Perdus, 255 ft. long, is whera

PARIS. 175

mystery-plays were performed. See Hugo's Noire Dame. The Sainte Chapeile (open daily 12-4, except Mon. and Eri.) is a nobly beautiful specimen of Gothic (1245-4S). Note the magnificent stained glass filling the sides of the Upper Chapel. The Mass of the Holy, Ghost is celebrated here once a year. Opposite the' Palais de Justice is the Tribunal de Commerce, a beauti- ful Renaissance building, IS 60-66 (open daily). Ob- serve the old Clock Tower of the Palais de Justice, one of the few remnants of the original edifice. See the Place Daiq^hine, and the equestrian Slatue of Henri IV. near by. Good view of the Louvre from the Pont Neuf.

Churches of Interest. — The Pantheon (1764- 90), on high ground, on the spot where Genevieve, the patron saint of Paris, was buried in 512. The Con- stituent Assembly made a Pantheon out of it ; and the Catholics never permanently regained their place of worship. Inscription on pediment: Aux grands hommes la patrie reconnaissante. Noble dome (272 ft.) ; ascend it for view. Interior decoration of dome, by Gros, fine. Portico of 22 Corinthian columns, 81 ft. high. Small fee for admission to crypts, where are the tombs of Voltaire, Rousseau, Lannes, Bougainville, and other noted men. t<t. Etienne du Mont (1 51 7) near the Panthe- on, has some matchless stained glass of the IGtli cen- tury. The Polytechnic School is in the rear. St. Ger-. main 1' Auxerrois is opposite the Louvre front. From its belfry the signal for the massacre of St. Bartholomew was sounded. Note the oval arches of tiie porch (1435). Eayade 15th and 16th centuries, Rich modern frescos and interesting chapels inside. 5'/. Germain des Pres is on Rue Bonaparte ; built 1001-1163, as the ch. of a powerful abbe-/. Inside are admirable and extensive frescos by the celebrated Plandrin ; ancient monu- ments in choir and nave. St. Eustache is near thtj

176 THE MADELEINE.

Halles Centrales (1532-1637) ; Gothic, with Greuan W. front. Interior beautifully decorated. Suftered much damage in the Commune, when it was used as a " Club." Remarkable marbles. St. Roch, on Rue St. Honore. Exterior plain, interior rich ; famous music. Here Napoleon I. planted his cannon, anci blew the French Revolution into space ; vide Carlyle. — Notre Dame de Lorette, Rue de Cliateaudun, is the ch. that Thiers was buried from. The Trinile, Place of same name ; new (1867), very elegant and rich. St. Vincent de Paul, Rue de Lafayette. — The brilham new Rusua'ri Ch., near the Pare de Monceaux. Inter, esting service here. The Val de Grace, Rue St. Jacques, wonderfully decorated with paintings by Mignard St. Sulpice, S. of the Seine, a vast and richly decorate>Dt ch., with towers 230 ft. high, and statues of Sts. Petei and Paid, La Sorbonne, adjoining the great university, contains the Tomb of Cardinal Richelieu.

The Madeleine, the most beautiful edifice in Paria, is in the style of a Greek temple, 330 ft. long, 130 wide, and 100 high, surrounded by Corinthian columns. In the colonnade are niches containing figures of saints. Cou- ture contributed to the designs. The pediment, 120 X 25, represents the Last J udgment. The bronze doors are subjects from the Old Testament. On Grand Altar, tlie Assumption, in white marble ; and painting of Magdalen at the feet of Christ. Plower-market on each side of the cli., Tues. and Fri. Very fine music. Sun. St. Augustin, Boulevard Malesherbes, contains many fine pamtiugs. — The Chapelle Expiaioire, Rue d'Anjou, is to the memory of Louis XVI. and his Queen, and other victims of the Revolution. The Dew Ste. Clotilde, Place Bellechasse, and St. Pierre de Montmartre, are worth seeing. Notre Daine de Bonnes Nouvelles, on the summit of Montmartre, is a new church and one of the larijest in Paris.

PARIS. 177

The Palaces. — The best place from which to see the imposing front of the Louvre is the park before St, Germain. The Colonnade was constructed in 1685, on the E. fafade. The central portion of this front is known as the Pavilion Henri Quutre. See statues of Napoleon I.'s generals on the Rohan Pavilion. The interior courtjard is an architectural marvel. See the 86 colossal statues of illustrious Frenchmen in the Square du Louvre. The entrance to the Museums, which are among the richest and most remarkable in Europe, is through a door on the 1., coming from the Cour du Louvre, under the Sully Pavilion, and through the Pavilion Denon, in the middle of the N. fafade of the building erected by Napoleon III, Collections open, free, daily, except Mon., in summer, 9-5 ; in tvdnter, 10-4. A few of the sculpture rooms and col- lections of antiquities are not opened until 1 p.m. Guides 2 fr. an lir., but the catalogues will enable most visitors to find their way about. The Venus of Milo, the Felterecl Slaves of Michael Angelo, the Mona Lisa of Leonardo da Vinci, and a noble group of the works of llaphael, Titian, and Yeronese are the chief treasures. Li one gallery tliere are 21 large pictures by Rubens. . The Salon Carre contains the most striking works of art. Tliere are 2,000 paintings in the Louvre. See the Apollo Gallery (Henri IV.), with plafond by Delacroix. The Marine and Chiiiese Museums should not be omitted. The Palace of the Tuileries, begun in 1564 by Philibert de Lorme for Catherine de Medicis, is now gone, the site being a garden. It was almost entirely destroyed during the Communal insurrection of 1871 The wdiole front w^as so utterly ruined that restoration was considered out of the question. The Pavilion de Flore and the GaUery on the Seine bank unite the Louvre with the

178 PALAIS DU LUXEMBOURG.

Tuileries. Eine sculptures by Cavelier and Carpeaux, The courtyard is tiie Place du Carrousel. It takes its name from a carousal, or ball, lield there by Louis XIV, in 1662. The Triumphal Arch which stands here is an imitation of the Arch of Severus at Rome, and was erected by Napoleon I. to commemorate his victories of 1805-6. It was originally crowned with the horses taken from the portal of St. Mark's Ch. in Venice, font these were sent back to Italy by the Emperor Eran- cis in 1814. Bonaparte, when French Consul, lived there ; and Louis XVIIL, Charles X., Louis Phi- lippe, and Napoleon III. made it their home. Read Carlyle's account of the attack on the Tuileries by a mob of 40,000 rioters in 1792. In front is the Tuile- ries Garden, 2,340 ft. long, vrhich extends to the Place de la Concorde, and in summer is a delightful resort thronged with people. Military music twice a week in summer. The Terrasse des Feuillants, on the N. side, is a pleasant promenade.

The Palais du Luxembourg was built 1615-20^^' and enlarged in 1804. It was once a royal habitation, a prison during the Revolution, the palace of the-. Directory and the Consulate, and is now the meet- ing-place of the Senate of the Republic. Chapel and museum open daily (except Mon.), 10-4. The Little Luxembourg , supposed to have been built by Marie de Medicis, is near by. The collections were (until 1875) next in importance to the Louvre. The Luxembourg- Museum was long the halting-place for pictures of dis* tinguished native artists. Galleries of paintings open daily (Mon. excepted), 9-5 in summer; Sun., and Eri., 10-4. In the garden, where m.ilitary music is played on Sun., Tues., and Thurs. afternoons, there is a fine fountain, and statues of celebrated Erenchwomen.

The Palais Royal is always interesting to strangers.

PARIS. 179

It was built 1625-34 for Cardinal Richelieu. The famous galleries, which now form such a charming promenade, and are filled Avitli attractive shops, were built by Philippe-Egalite. The Theatre of the ComSdie Frangaise is adjacent to the palace. It was destroyed by fire on March 8, 1900, but has been rebuilt.

The 'Palais de I'Elysee, having facades on the Faubourg St. Honore and the Champs Elysees, is at present the residence of the President of the Repubhc. It was built in 171S, and restored under Napoleon I. Fine old garden on the Cbamps-Elysees side. The Palais Bourbon, in which the Corps Legislatif held its sessions under Napoleon III., was built for the Duchess of Bourbon in 1722. Fine peristyle 'fronting on the Seine, with 12 Corinthian columns and flight of steps decorated with colossal statues. The Hotel dela Presidence is near by. The Palais d'Orsay was partly destroyed in May, 1871.

The two Palaces of Fine Arts, the Gravid Palais and the Petit Palais, occupy the triangle between the Champs Elysees and the Seine, where formerly v.^as the Palais de Vlndustrie. This was used for the first international exhibition in Paris in 1855, and since then until its demolition the annual Salon was held there. Here also is the approach to the handsome Pont Alexandre III., the memorial stone of which was laid by the Tsar Nicholas II., in 1896. In the Avenue Montaigne is the Palais Pom- peien, built for Prince Napoleon after the one of Diomed at Pompeii. Admission 1-2 fr.

The Palace of the Institute, on the site of the oli Hotel de Nesle, was completed in 1662. It is an odd structure, with a Corinthian porch adorned with figures of lions and with fountains. During the Revolution it was a prison. The academy holds its sessions here. The annual meeting of the five departments

180 BOIS DE BOULOGNE

Bombined is held in Aug. in the Great Hall. 2 fine libraries. The Mazarine Library (200,000 vols.) is open to the public 10-4 (except Sun.).

The Palais des Beaux-Arts, in the Rne Bonaparte, Is the seat of the School of the Pine Arts, founded in 1648 (open daily, 10-4; fee, 1 fr.). On the railing which separates the court from the Rue Bonaparte are colossal busts of Puget and Poussin. Near the Inva- Udes, in Hue de Grenelle, is the Archbishop's Palace.

The quaint mediseval Hotel de Cluny (founded about 1500), Hue du Sommerard, contains about 4,000 objects in marble, wood, stone, ivorj; enamels, terra- cotta, prints, stained glass, pottery, etc. (catalogue at the door). The old Palais des Thermes, which fronts on the Boulevard St. Michel, was built by Constantius Chlorus and by Julian the Apostate, who has left on record his predilection for spending part of his time in his " dearLutetia" (open daily, 11-4.30). The Musee Mmiicipal, at the Hotel Carnavalet, Rue Sevigne, can be visited with an order. A library of 45,000 vols., composed of works relative to the history of the city of Paris, is here. " The interesting Artillery Museum is at the Hotel des Invalides (open Tues., Tl^urs., and Sun. in summer, 12-3). The Mint Museum, on the Quai Conti, may be visited Tues. and Pri. (12-3), by order.

Parks and Gardens. — The Bois de Boulogne is the cliief park of the French capital, and comprises a tract of about 2,250 acres, of which 70 are artificial lakes, just opposite the fortifications, and extending along the banks of the Seine. The Bois is connected with the Champs Elysees by several magnificent ave- nues ; and the principal one, the Avenue du Bois de Boulogne, is 4,200 ft. long and 315 ft. wide. The drive Around the Lake is the rendezvous of the fashion of the capital, in winter from 3 to 5 o'clock, and of

PARIS. 181

strangers from all parts of tlie world in summer from 5-8 o'clock. The Cascade; the Field of Longchamps, on which races and reviews are held; the Jardin d'Acdimatation (zoological gardens) ; Model Dairy, Pre Catalan; the AUee des Acacias, through the cen- tre of this park; the pretty suburbs of Passy and Auteuil; and the towns of Boulogne, Suresnes and St. Cloud, are the principal objects of interest.

E. of Paris is the Bois de Vincennes, a vast woody tract, which furnishes a delightful breathing- place for the Parisians. The Chateau (open Sat., 12-4, by order from Commandant) was built in 1164, and is a strong fortress, containing barracks and arsenal and a military school. There is a monument to the Due d'Enghien; and from the Donjon, a a square tower 190 feet high, a fine view may be enjoyed. The chapel was founded in 1379.

The Buttes Chaumont is a picturesque park of 55 acres, in the Belleville quarter. In the centre is an island bearing a reproduction of the Temple of the Sibyl at Tivoli. G-reat battle near here on the 30th of May, 1814. The Pare de Monceaux may be entered from the Rue de Courcelles. It covers 18 acres, and is surrounded by magnificent residences of wealthy Parisians. Great numbers of Communists were executed here at the close of the insurrection.

The Champs-Elysees is a world-famous prome- nade. The illumination on the 14th of July (national fete) is a superb spectacle. Most of the Cafe-Concerts of importance have summer theatres here.

The Jardin des Plantes, easily reached by omni- bus or by river steamboat, is open daily, 10 till dark. The fine Menagerie is open daily in summer, 10-5 ; the Galleries, containing the collections, Tues. and Sun. afternoons; library daily, 10-3. Botanic Garden here, one of the pleasantest promenades in the city.

182 JULY COLUMN. -ARC DE TRIOMPHE,

I!

The Place de la Concorde, one of the finest squares in the world, is a good starting-point for any excursion about Paris. In the centre is the Ohelisic of Luxor, given to Louis Philippe by the Pasha of Egypt. It is 76 ft. high, and weighs 840 tons. On either side is a handsome fountain. Arranged about the Place are 8 stone figures, representing the chief towns of France, On the statue of Strasbourg the visitor may generally observe a mourning wreath. The Germans bivouacked here in 1871. In 1792-99, 3,000 people perished here on the guillotine', Louis XVI. was executed near central gate of.Tuileries garden. The P/ace de la Bastille has in its centre the July Column, 153 ft. high, with figure of Libertv See Place dti Chateau d''Eau, Place du Cliatelet, Place Louvois, and Place Dawphine. On the Place du Pont St. Michel there is a fine fountain, with a bronze statue of Michael over- coming the Dragon. On the Place St. Georges stands the house in which Thiers lived during the latter years of his life. In the centre of the Place de VEtoile, at the top of the Champs-Elysees, stands the noble Arc de Triomphe de I'Etoile, begun in 1806 by Napoleon I., and finished in Louis Philippe's reign, at a cost of $2,000,000. The structure is 160 ft. high, 146 ft, wide, and 72 ft. deep. The vast arch is 67 ft. high and 46 ft. wide. On the side are groups representing the Napo- leonic campaigns. Names of nearly 150 battles appear on the vault. Spiral staircase of 26 1 steps to platform at top, whence a grand view. From the Triumphal Arch to the Porte Maillot runs the Ave. de la Grande Armee.

In the Place Vendome is a column 140 ft. high, surmounted by a statue of Napoleon L, in costume of a Cassar. The column, pulled down by communists in 1871, .was made of cannon taken from the Aus- trians. Notice curious heads over the houses round

PARIS. 183

the Square. The Place Lotivois, near the National Library ; the Place cle la Bourse, where stands the Bourse, or Exchange (from a gallery in which visitors can notice the curious financial crush from 12 to 3) ; the Square Montholon, on the Rue Lafayette ; the Esplanade, in front of the Livalides; the Champs de Mars, where four great exhibitions have been held, and where the celebrated EiiTel Tower (984 ft. in height) is located; the Trocadero Gardens, now crowned with a superb palace used for historical collections and for musical concerts ; the Place Glichy, at the head of the street of the same name ; and the Place de la Nation^ should not be forgotten by the visitor. The Place de Greve, where the stake and the scaffold were erected so often in the 15th and 16th centuries, is now called the Place de r Hotel de Ville ; and directly in the rear of it is the new City Hall, a magnificent structure, erected on tlie ruins of the one burned to the ground by the Comnmnists, May 24, 1871. With the old building, 1533-1628, a library of lv)0,000 vols, was consumed. The new Hotel de Ville is ornamented with hundred? of statues. The Place de la Roquette is a gloomy square, in front of the prison to which criminals are transferred when they are sentenced to death. Many notorious exe> cutions occurred on this Place. In the Place cles Victoires see the clumsy statue of Louis XIV. ; the statues of Jeanne d'Arc, on the Rue de Rivoli, in tlie Place des P^r amides ; and that of Marshal Ney at the Observatory. The Porte St. Martin and the Porte St. Denis, on the Boulevard St. Denis, are triumphal arches, erected in 1674 and 1672 respectively, to commemorate the victories of Louis XIY. in Holland and on the Lower Rhine. The allied armies, when they entered Paris in 1814, passed through the Porte St. Martin, just as the German armies entered under the Arc de

184 THE PASSAGES OF PARIS.

Triomplie in 1871. Near these 2 arches there were sanguinary conflicts in the insurrections of 1830, 1848,^ and 1871. One of the most formidable barricades, and one most fiercely defended by the Communists in 1871, was near the Porte St. Martin. On the Square St. Jacques, which occupies a portion of the site of the old Ch. of St. Jacques la Boucherie, is a beautiful tower (1508-22), 160 ft. high, all that now remains of the old clmrch ; statue of Pascal, by Cavelier, in a crown of the arch. Great number of other statues on the monument. The Square Monge contains a statue of Voltaire. See in the Square du Temple the group of lime-trees under which Louis XYl. used to sit when he was a prisoner. The Conservatoire des Arts et Metiers, opening on the Rue St. Martin, has a magnificent industrial school. Collections most extensive of their kind in Europe (open 10-4 ; Sun., Tues., Thurs., free; Mon., Fri., Sat., 1 fr.) ; articles are all labelled. See Refectory of the old abbey. The handsome Gothic Hall is now a hbrary, 20,000 vols, (open to students, 10-3, 7.30-10 daily). The Fontaiiie de V Observatoire is ornamented with •jolumns bearing vases, and statues of Morning, Noon, Evening, Night. See Fontaine Cuvier, in the Jardin des Plantes ; Fontaine Gaillon, in the Place of the same name; Fontaine de Grenelle, one of the finest in the city; the Fontaine des Innocents, in Square of same name; Fontaine Louis le Grand; Fontaine Moliere, entrance to Rue Moliere; Fontaine Richelieu, in the Rue de Richelieu; Fontaine Notre Dame; Fontaine St. Sulpice / and the Fontaine de la Victoire,

The Passages, or arcades, of Paris should not escape the stranger's attention. The most noticeable are the Passages Jouffroy, des Panoramas, de V Opera, des Princes, on the grand boulevards ; the Choiseul, Rue des Petits Champs ; Passage Verdean, a continua-

PARIS. 185

tion of the Jouffroy ; Passage du Saumon, in the Rue Montmartre; Passage F*m'e?i?ie, f rom E,ue Vivienne ; Passage du Havre, from the Rue Caumartin to the Rue St. Lazare. Beware of beggars and people who offer their services in these arcades. The best shop- ping streets are the Rue de la Paix, Rue de la Chaus- see d' Antin, Avenue de I'Opera, Rue Scribe, Boulevard Haussmann, Rue des Capucines, Rue Royale, Rue Auber, Boulevard St. Germain, and all the grand boulevards. The shops in the Avenue de I'Opera are usually reasonable in their prices, but those of the Rue de Rivoli are not.

Cemeteries. — There are 14 within the walls. The most noticeable is Pfere-la-Chaise. Here the Com- munists made their last stand, and from the hill-top bombarded the neighborhood of the Place de la Con- corde. See graves and tombs here of Helo'ise and Abelard; Alfred de Musset; the composers Bellini, Gretry, Boieldieu, Cherubini, Rossini and Chopin; of Bernardin de St. Pierre, Talma the trage- dian, Dupuytren, Beaumarchais, Manuel and Be- ranger in the same tomb, Benjamin Constant, Racine, Moliere, Lafontaine, Balzac, Eugene Delacroix, Thiers, Marshal Ney; Clement Thomas and Le Comte, the first victims of the Commune; and in the Jewish Cemetery (closed on Saturday) the tombs of Rachel and the Rothschilds. See Prison of La Roquette, in which the Archbishop and other hostages were executed by the Communists. The Montmartre Cemetery has the graves of Hein- rich Heine, Cavaignac, Halevy, Theophile Gautier, Gozlan, Mtirger, Horace Vernet and Troyon. On the Boulevard Montrouge is the Montparnasse Cemetery, Visit the Picpus Cemetery, Rue Picpus, where are tombs of Lafayette and many members of old French nobility, victims of the Revolution. See at end of burial-ground the Cemetery of the CruiUotmed, where

186 h5tel des invalides.

1,300 persons, executed at the Barriere du Trone, are buried.

Fortifications. — Paris is surrounded with ramparts (cost, $28,000,000), Mdth 94 bastions, and 21 M. long. They are 32 ft. high, with parapet 19 ft. wide, moat 48 ft. wide, and a glacis. Since the war of 1870-71 the system of fortifications has been greatly enlarged. The approaches to Paris are now commanded by 16 detached forts, none of them farther than 2.M. from the city. Mont Valerien is the most imposing and pic- turesque. Those near St. Denis and on the 1. bank of the Marne and Seine are. best worth visiting.

fhe Hotel des Invalides is S. of the Seine, in the S. W. portion of the city, and easily reached from the Place de la Concorde. It was founded in 1670 by Louis XIV. for the veterans of the army. There are at present about 500 inmates, although the build- ing was intended to accommodate 5,000. The dome of the Ch. of the Invalides, which can be seen from a long distance, was gilded in the time of Napoleon I. The fa9ade of the great edifice is 660 ft. long. In front of the wings are groups in bronze by Desjardins. Over the principal entrance stands an equestrian figure of Louis XIV. On the Esplanade is the " Triumphal Battery," used in firing salutes on great occasions. Most of the guns are trophies. See the Cour d'Hon- neur, painted with scenes from various French warlike epochs, the Refectories, Library, the Salle du Couseil, the Artillery Mtiseum., and the Ch., in which is the Tomb of Napoleon I., directly beneath the dome (entrance to the dome Mon., Tues., Wed., and Fri., 12-3, free). Above the entrance to the crypt are inscribed the words fron. ^lie Emperor's last will : "I desire that my ashes may repose on the banks of the Seine, among that French people I have so

PARIS. 187

well loved," Note the bas-reliefs by Simvrt; colos. sal victories by Pradier; the sarcophagus, which weighs 67 tons; the decoration of tlie tomb; and tne monument of Vauban and Turenne. In a chapel on the 1. is the tomb of Jerome Bonaparte ; on the r., the sarcophagus of Joseph Bonaparte, once King of Spain. The Hotel des Invalides is shown daily from 12-3, except Sun. (small fee). Walk hence to the Ecole Miliiaire, founded in 1751 by Louis XY. A noble building; admission by special order. A great number of executions of Communists here.

Operas and Tlieatres.^^ — The majority of the Paris theatres are closed in summer, but tourists will wish to visit the Grand Opera, or National Academy of Music, and the Theatre Francais, which are open the year round. The new Opera House was built 1861-74 and is the largest theatre in the world, cov- ering nearly 3 acres, but seats fewer people (2,156) than La Scala or San Carlo in Italy. The fapade is exceedingly rich in statuary. On the r. notice the celebrated group of La Danse by Carpeaux. The 7 others represent music, lyric and idyllic poetry, declamation, song, drama, and lyric drama. Note the medallions and busts of composers. The gifand stair- case of white marble, with balustrades of red antique marble and hand-rails of Algerian onyx, is the finest in Europe (see local guides for description). To gen- tlemen we recommend the Stalles de Farterre, 7 fr. ; to.families, if economy be an object, the Troisiemes, 8 fr. Ladies not admitted to the orchestra stalls, except occasionally on Sat, The Amphitheatre is the choice part of the' house. All this quarter of Paris is illumi- nated by electricity. At the other end of the Avenue de rOpera is the Theatre Frangais, the rank of which is well known. Pounded in 1600, it was under

188 OPERAS AND THEATRES.

Moliere's superintendence until his death. The lobby contains statues of Voltaire, George Sand, and other celebrities (good seats here, 7-10 fr.). Paris is the home of genteel comedy ; and the theatres where it can be best seen are the Renaissancp, Rejane. Vau- deville, and Gyjymase. For light opera go to the Opera Comique (good seats, 8-12 fr.). The Odeon ranks next to the J^rangais, and there, as at the lead- ing theatre, classical drama is often produced. For opera bouffe go to the Trianon, the Bouffes Paris- iens, or the Folies Dramatiques. The Varietes has a specialty of broad vaudevilles and comedies. The Palais Royal and Athenee are the recognized temples of broad comedy and of those light buffooneries played nowhere so well as in Paris. The Chdtelet is mainly devoted to spectacles, fairy pieces and ballets. The Theatre Sarah- Bernhardt, formerly des Nations, is is where Bernhardt plays when In Paris, For other theatres, see daily papers or the English papers. There are several circus buildings and an immense Hippodrome. Concerts Sunday afternoons in win- ter, generally at the Theatre du Chdtelet, Ihedtre Sarah Bernhardt and Champs Ely sees Circus. The best music halls are the Olympia, Casino de Paris, la Scala and Polies-Bergere ; in summer, the Mar- igny, Jar din de Paris, des Amtassadeurs and Alcazar d'Ete, all in the Champs Elysees.

Museums. — The Louvre ; paintings, statuary, aniiquities ; 10-4 in winter, 9-5 in summer, Mondays excepted. The Luxembourg ; paintings, statuary, chiefly works of living French artists; 9-5 except Sun. ; when the Senate is in session tickets must be obtained from a Senator or from the Secretaire de la questure. Cluny, Rue de Sommerard ; antiquities and curiosities; 10-4 except Monday. Moliere. Collec- tion of busts and portraits of great value as regards the literary history of F'rance, in various parts of the Theatre Frangais; authorization to visit the non-

PARIS 189

Sublic parts of buildingf from the archivist, M. G. lonval. Camavalet, Rue de Sevigne; objects re- lating to the history of the French Revolution ; 11-4 Sun. and Thurs. Archives Nationales, Rue des Francs-Bourgeois; objects and documents relative to French history; 10-4 except Monday. Cabinet des Estampes et des Medailles, Rue Richelieu ; 10-4 daily. Musee des JBeaux-Arts^ Rue Bonaparte; casts, copies, engravings; 10-4 daily. Instrumental, Rue de Fau- bourg-Poisonniere; musical instruments of all epochs; 12-4 Mon. and Thurs. De r Opera; autograph MSS. of composers, instruments, costumes; 11-4 except Sunday. De la Mon7iaie,Qiia.i Conti; medals, coins, postage stamps; 12-3 Tues. and Fri. on authorization obtained from the director of the mint. Des Gobelins, ancient and modern tapestries; 1-3 Wed. and Sat. Trocadero; on the ground floor, casts of architectural and other sculpture; 11-4 except Monday; first floor, ethnographical museum; 12-4 Sunday and Thursday. Ouimet, Avenue d'lena; collection relative to the history of eastern religions; 12-4 daily. Du Oarde- Meuble, Quai d'Orsay; furniture, tapestries, bronzes, etc., from Louis XIV. to present time; interesting; 10-4 except Monday. Des Arts et Metiers, Rue St.- Martm; collection relative to applied science and in- dustries; one of the halls has remarkable acoustic properties; 10-4 Sun., Tues. and Thurs,; other days by special permit. Dupuytreri and Orjila, Rue de I'Bcole de Medicine; anatomy and pathology; 10-4 except Sunday; tickets obtained at the office of the secretary of the Faculte de Medecine. D'Artillerie, at the Hotel des Invalides; arms and armor; 10-4 «xcept Monday. Caen, 1 Rue de Seine; paintings offered in competition for the Prix de Rome; admis- sion on request. Cermisci, 7 Avenue Velasquez*, Chinese and Japanese art.

National Library (2,000,000 vols.), in the Rue de Richelieu (see local guides); the beautiful St,

190 ALONG THE SEINE

Ge7i6vUv6 Library (120,000 vols, and 35,000 MSS.), Place du Panth&m ; tlie Halles Centrales, vast pavilions cov, ering many acres, reached from the Rue Montmartre or Boulevard Sebastopol, should be visited between 6 and 8 A.M., when the marketing is most active. The Bourse de Commerce, in the Rue du Louvre, replaces the old wheat exchange called the Halle au Ele. The Halle aux Vins, or the wine depot of the city, is next the Jardin des Plantes ; 30 million gallons can be stored there. The Ahattoira, or slaughter-houses, cover 67 acres, and 1,000 persons are employed there.

The Hospitals of the Hotel Dieu, Beaujon, Fau- bourg St. Honore ; La Charite, Rue Jacob ; La Pitie, Rue Lacepede; Lariboisiere, near the N. Rly. stat.; St. Louis, Rue Bichat ; Du Midi, Rue des Capucines ; De Lourcine, street of same name ; Des Cliniques, Place de PEcole de Medecine; Des Incurahles, at Ivry,— may generally be • visited without difficulty. For descriptions of the great Asylums, of the Mont de Piete, of the Prisons (historical ones mentioned elsewhere), and of the minor military establishments, see local guides. An excursion through the Sewers, from the Bastille to the Placode la Con- corde, in boats and wagons, may be made twice a month in summer. The Catacombs, which contain the bones of most of the victims of the Revolution, and of nearly 6,000,000 of other dead, may be occasionally visited with permission.

Of the 27 bridges over the Seine, the most noticeable are the Pont d' Austerlitz, which has 5 stone arches, is 390 feet long, and has the names of the principal officers killed in the celebrated battle inscribed on the ornaments of the bridge. It was built in 1808, and rebuilt in 1858. The Pont K"6uf was begun in 1578, and completed in 1624. Upon it stands an equestrian statue of Henry TV, The Pont des Arts was built for pedestrians only. The Pont du Carrousel has 4 colossal stone statues, those on the left bank representing Abundance and Industry, and on the right the Seine and the City of Paris. The Pont Boyal was built in 1608. Just below is the pier for the steamers which run to St. Cloud and Suresnes. Far-

VERSAILLES 191

fher down the Seine are the Pont de Solferino, 155 yards 3ong, with the names of the principal French victories in the campaign of 1859 inscribed upon the cornices ; the Pont de la Cy/(cordc, opposite the Palais Bourbon; the Po7it des Invalide,-!, which has statues representing victory by land and victory by sea; the Pont de VAlma, with statues between the arches representing different types of French soldiers; the Pont d'lena, built 1806-13, ooposite the Champ de Mars, with colossal statues of men and horses; the Pont Alexandre III., built in 1899; and the Pont du Jour, a superb viaduct, 570 feet long.

Excursions near Paris.

Versailles {Roiel des Reservoirs, where tlie Germaa princes dwelt during the siege of Paris) is reached by half-hourly trains from St. Lazare or Mont-Pariiasse stat. {\\\-\^\ M. ; return-fares, 3fr. 30 c., 2 fr. 70 c.) ; or by tramway from the Louvre (10 M.) ; or by carriage, through the Bois de Boulogne, the Park of St. Cloud, and Ville d'Avray. Versailles is a sleepy old town of 61,000 inhab., which has grown up around the palace that Louis XIV. built on an isolated plateau between low^ forest-covered hills, at a cost of $200,000,000. The palace overlooks the town . See Hotel de Ville ; the Palais de Justice; the Library (60,000 vols.) ' the Salle du Jeu de Paitme, the cradle of the French E-evolution; the Stai^ie of Horace Vernet ; and the Theatre, restored in 1850 ; the Place Roche, with the statue of the General ; and the Cathedral of St. Louis. The courtyard contains many statues, among Avhich are those of Bayard, Colbert, Massena, and Tu- remie, and an equestrian bronze statue of Louis XIV. In 1661 Louis XIV. formed his great scheme of a palace and park ; and Levan and Mansard erected tJie buildings, while Le Notre laid out and decorated the gardens. The palace has not been inhabited since 1789 \ ana in the reign of Louis Philippe it was con*

192 VERSAILLES.

Verted into a museum, devoted, as the inscription shows, " To all the Glories of Prance.'* The Chapel is gorgeously decorated (1696-1710). The Museum is open daily, 12-4 (except Mon.). The entrance is at the 1. in the Marble Courtyard. Notice the Marble Staircase, leading to the fii-st story ; and thf Queen^s Staircase, to the second. The Museum is va)' , and its magnificent halls are crowded with statues and por- traits of the generals, admirals, and sovr /oigns of France, and witli hundreds of pictures of he} battles in all four continents, painted by Vernet, Scheffer, )elacroix, Regnault, etc., forming an unrivalled panoraj ta of mili- tary glory. 33 grand battle-pictures in Valerie des Batailles, a hall 396 X 52 ft. in area. In tie Salle du Sacre is the great picture of the " Const.-cration of Napoleon," by David ; also, Gros's famous painting, " The Battle of Aboukir." The Grande Galerie des Glaces is the most notable hall, 240 X 35 ft. in area, adorned with Le Brun's paintings (1679-83), and over, looking the gardens. The Bedroom of LDuis XIV., the Salle des . Gardes, the King's AntecXumher, the Comicil Hall, the Salle de la Giierre ; a?ad, on the -ground floor, i]ie Halls of the Marshals, of the Kings of France (67 portraits, from Clovis to Napoleon III.), and of the Royal Residences, — are espf.cially worth visiting. The Sculpture Galleries are ex'^remely inter- esting. In the Queen' s Chamber the 3 queens, Marie Therese, Marie Leczinska, and Marie Antoinette, have lodged. Catalogues, giving description of all the rooms, ^or sale at palace. Eine view of the Grand Canal and the Basin of Apollo from the steps in front of the palace. The fountains play afternoons on Sun. (gen. erally announced in the Paris papers) The chief cu- riosities of the gardens are the Orangery (1685); the Parterres du Midi and du Nord ; the Fiece d'Eau de*

ST. CLOUD. 193

SniHses ; the Neptune Fountain ; the two fountains near tlie Oi'angerj ; the Latona Basin ; and the Grande Al- ice (ki Tapis Vert. The Grand Canal is 4,674 ft. long, and about 186 ft. wide. It was here that Louis XIY. gave liis Venetian festivals, famous in history. The Grand Trianon, a horseshoe-shaped villa, built by Louis XIV. for Madame Maintenon, is open daily (12-4). Richly furnished rooms, in which Bazaine was tried. The gardens of the Petit Trianon are alse open daily. Notice the curious display of old state- coaches used by the sovereigns of France, in a coach- house near the Grand Trianon. When the Grander. En^'v p1av, rly. tickets from Paris cost 2 fr, 1^ fr.

St. Cloud (Restaurants: Belvedere; de la Gare) is visited from St. Lazare (Ifr. 60c., Ifr. 10c. j; or by steamer, which is preferable in warm weather. From the bridge over the Seine turn to the 1., and walk through the Park to the Great Cascade. Then turn up to the ruined Palace (built in 1572), mainly de- stroyed by French shells, thrown into the wood to dis- lodge the Germans. This was a favorite residence of Napoleon III. (One-horse carriages per hr., 3 fr.) Many ruined buildings in the town, remains of the conflagration started by the Germans. Beautiful new ch. in the 12th-century style, with a lofty stone spire. New Hotel de Ville, near by. Magnificent outlook over Paris from the hill above the stat. The Palace was inhabited by most of the French sovereigns, from 1785. The rly. from Paris to Versailles runs through the beautiful park, which is ornamented with statues, foun- tains, and lakes. See the Trocadero Garden, N. of the palace ; the Pavilion de Breteuil ; and the great water- jet, to the 1. of the Cascade. The Park of Montretont near the rly., was the scene of a desperate fight, ir the sortie made by the French, Jan. 19, 1871, in whict they lost 3,000 men. Mouument here to the slain.

194 SEVRES-ST. GERMAIN-RUEIL

Sevres is easily readied from St. Cloud. Here is tlie noted porcelain factory. Exhibition room of the Ceramic Museum open daily, 12-5 ; strangers admitted •without cards. The Workshops may be inspected Mon., Thurs., and Sat., 12-5 (get cards at 3 Rue de Yalois, Paris). Uly. from Paris to Bellevue, 5 min. "walk from Ihe factory.

St. Germain-en-Laye. This is one of the most beautiful excursions near Paris (fares, Ifr. 65 c, Ifr. 35 c). The principal sights are the Pavilion Henri Quatre, in which Louis XIV. was born, and Thiers died; the magnificent Terrace on the border of the forest of St. Germain ; and the gloomy old Chateau^ where James II. of England lived after the Revolution, of 1C88. In the Ch. is a Mausoleum^ erected by George lY. to the memory of James. The forest of St. Ger- main, one of the largest near Paris (9,000 acres), is full of charming walks, and a day or two may well be spent in this lofty and healthy old town. Tlie Museum of National A7itiqvAties is in the chateau (open Sun., Tues., and Thurs., 11-5). The Terrace, constructed by Le Notre in 1672, is \\ M. long, with superb view* Prom St. Germain to Versailles is a pleasant walk.

Rueil (fares, 95 c, 65 c.) is 8f M. from St. Lazare stat. In its Ch. are monuments to Empress Josephine and Queen Tlortense. Malmaison (tramway from Rueil, 3 M.) was the favorite home of Napoleon, and there Josephine died in 1814. Not far away is the Chateau of Buzeniml, near which the artist, Henri Regnault, was killed in the fight of Jan. 19, 1871. About ._2| M. from Rueil is Bougival, a resort of celebrated painters. See the Restaurant, witli walls decorated with land- scapes by Corot, Eranyais, etc. Erom thence go to Louveciennes, a lovely village, with a 15th-century ch. It is but 7-8 min. walk, thence to Koinrj. On the

ST. DENIS. — ENGHIEN. 1 95'

till is Marly-le-Roi, where stood a beautiful palace built bj Louis XIV., aud destroyed during the Revo- lution. Victorieu Sardou lives here. To the W. is Monte Gristo, in which Dumas the Elder lived so long.

St. Denis is 4 M. from Paris (return-fares, 1 fr. SO c, 85 c., 70 c.). Chapel begun liere, a.d. 275, in honor of St. Denis, who had his head cut off on Montinartre, and who is said to liave taken it on his arm and walked off across the fields, Dagobert built the ch., which was the nucleus of the one begun by Pepin, finished by Charlemagne in 775, and demol- ished and a larger one built on its ruins 400 years later. During the Revolution the ch. was pillaged. It was restored by Viollet-le-Duc. Beautiful monuments and statues here. Here Charlemagne was anointed ; the Oriflamme was kept ; Abelard dwelt ; Joan of Arc hung up her arms; Henri I. abjured Protestant- ism; and Napoleon I. was married to Marie Louise. The bones of the Kings of Erance from Dagobert (630) to Louis XV. (1774) were buried here; and the mad Revolutionists tore them from their tombs, and buried them in a common ditch. They are novf in the crypt, and the superb royal monuments adorn the ch., whose interior is 354 ft. long and 129 ft. wide, lighted by splendid stained windows, and en* riched with mosaics and statuary.

Bnghien and Montmorency are on the N. Rly. i^nghien is noted for sulphur baths; Siudi a,t Mont- morency is the Hermitage which Rousseau inhabited, and where he began La Nouvelle Helo'ise. Robespierre and Gretry also lived here. Chantilly and Com.piegne (fares to Char.tillv, 5fr. 5c , 3fr. 75c.. 2fr. 80c ; ta Compiegne, lOfr. 30c., 7fr. 35c., 3fr. 65c.) Chan- tilly was the Versailles of the Princes of Conde, and was beautified by them from the 13th century until the

196 COMPIEGNE.-FONTAINEBLEAU.

Revolution. It has two fine chateaux (described by Madame de Sevigne), and a famous forest of 10 square M. Spring and autumn races here. Com- pi^gne has always been a royal residence. Napoleon I. was fond of it, and Napoleon III. entertained there with great magnificence. The GaUrie des Fetes is superb. The Library was the favorite work-place of Napoleon III. The Compiegne Forest is 59 M. around. From Compiegne to Pierrefonds, excursion by omnibus through the forest, 9 M. Grand feudal fortress, built in 1400, and restored by Yiollet-le-Duc, with 8 huge towers and a donjon, on a rocky height over Pierrefonds. Hotel des Ruines, near by. Ermenonville (return tickets, 7 fr. 90 c, 5 fr. 90 c, 4 fr. 95 c. ; Le Bourget, where there were many fights in 1870-71, is on this route), is the beautiful retreat where Rousseau died, in 1778. Celebrated Park just beyond, at Mortefontaine. — Trains run to Fontaine- bleau {Lion d'Or; Aigle-Noir ; Dio Nordetdela Poste; De la Chancellerie) from the Gare de Lyons (return tickets, 9 fr., 6 fr. 80 c, 4 f«. 95 c). On the the road is Cliarento7i, with its celebrated lunatic asylum and fortress ; Alfort, where there is a horse and dog hospital ; llontmesly and Melun, with two handsome old chs. and a Gothic town-hall. From Stat., omnibus (1^ M.; 30-50 c.) to the Chateau (open daily, 12-4). This stately palace was built by Francis I., on the site of Louis VII. 's castle; and here Conde died, the Edict of Nantes was revoked, Louis XIII. was born, Josephine was divorced. Napoleon signed his abdication, Pius VII. was imprisoned, and Napoleon III. was baptized. It is crowded with rich frescoes and paintings. Gobe- lins tapesti-ies, and antique furnishings. See the bou- doir of Marie Antoinette, the bedrooms oi Anne of Austria and Catherine de Medicis, and the splendid

SCEA UX. — MEUDON. — ORLEANS. 197

balle des Fetes. This was a favorite abode of tli© .Empress Eugenie and her son. The Forest, dear to artists, and one of the most beaittiful in the world, must be seen. It is 50 M. around, with many fine gorges, crags, and heaths, and has 12,400 M. of roads and pathways. On the borders are many charming villages inhabited mainly by artists ; and the lovers of Millet will visit Barbizon.

Sceaux (retui'u-fares, 2 tV. 20 c., 1 fr. 40c., 1 fr. 10 c.) is a beautiful hill-town, vdth a delicious Park and the Chateau where Colbert once lived and Voltaire- wrote several of his famous tragedies. Chatilloa was the scene of many combats during the siege.

Meudon is reached from the Tuileries by boat every 15 minutes. In the Chateau, built in 1695 and hurned Ijy the Germans in 1871, the Empress Marie Louise and Prince Napoleon lived. This was also the parish of Rabelais. Fine view from Terrace (where the Prussians had a 26-gun battery) ; noble trees, "^lie walk through Meudon to Versailles is charming.

To Orleans, Blois, and Tours (fares to Tours, 28 fr. 80 c, 21 fr. 60 c, 15 fr. 80 c. ; 145i M.). Orleans [Eotel d' Orleans ; Be Loiret), founded by the Homaus,. on the Loire, contains a noble Flamboyant ^-athedral^ the only Gothic cathedral built in Europe smce the Middle Ages. It has a grand interior, with double aisles ; and 2 towers, each 280 ft. high. See t!ie: bronze replica of a marble statue of Jeanne d'Arc made by Princess Mane, the Museum, and the Mairie. Orleans was the capital of the first Kingdom of Bur- gundy. The forest of Orleans is one of tlie largest in the country. The Germans took the city in 1870, Blois ijlotel d'Anr/leterre) has a stately old Castle^ for centuries a residence of kings and queens. Fine old houses in the town. 12 M. (2 hrs.) jience,. by

198 AMBOISE. — TOURS. — DIJON.

omnibus, is the grand, many-towered, and historic* Castle of Chambord, built by Francis I. and stil) in the Bourbon family. Erom Onzain stat. it is 1 M. to the Chateau de Chaumont, a high-towered bill-fortress, where Catherine de Medicis lived ; Car- dinal d'Amboise was born ; the Prince de Conde was imprisoned ; and Yoltaire wrote La Pucelle. 11 M, beyond is Amboise, with its famous Castle, perched on a lofty crag, and dating from 1470. In tlie gardens is an exquisite Gothic chapel, with marvellous stone- carving. 10 M. S. is the castle of Chenonceauap built by Erancis I., inhabited by Diana de Poi- tiers and Louise of Lorraine, and the favorite resori of Voltaire, Rousseau, Bolingbroke, etc. It is still in perfect order, and elegantly furnished. At Tours \H6tel de VUnlcers, near the stat.), in Touraine, on the Loire, the best French is spoken. See Gothic Cathe- dral, founded in 1170 ; Episcopal Palace ; many famous schools ; a Museum with 200 paintings ; a fine Public Library ; and two ancient towers (relics of the old Cathedral), beneath one of ^^hich the wife of Charle- magne was buried. Many American and English families reside here. See Plessis les Tours, the horn© of Louis XL

Eor other excursions from Paris see local guides.

Routes from Paris to Switzerland.

Our itinerary leads to Germany, before entering Swil zerland.

From Paris to Geneva, by Dijon and Macon. — In 11 hrs., by express train (distance, 3881- M. ; fares, 76 tV. 75 c., 47 fr. 30 c., 80 fr. 85 c.). Many stop at Macon over night. J}\^o'n.{Hdtel du Jura, near the sta. de la Cloche^ Bourgogne)^ 60,000 inliab. , is in the wine-growing dis-

MACON - BELFORT - RHEIMS 199

trict. See Palace of the Dukes of Burgundy, now a town-hall, with very interestmg museum ; the Castle, built by Louis XI. ; th.G Burgundian-Gothic Ch. of Notre Dame (built 1220-30), with a curious clock. Macon {Hotel de l' Europe) is an important rly. junction (good buifet). Eine views of the Jura Mts. from the train. At Amber ieu you begin to climb the mts. Junction at Culoz for Aix-les-Bains, Chamhery, and Turin. Near here some fine viaducts, and the Fort de VEcluse, the key to the Rhone valley. From this poini you traverse a picturesque mt. country to Geneva.

From, Paris to Switzerland, via Pontarlier (fares from Paris to Berne, 68 fr. 15 c., 50 fr. 85 c., 37 fr. 25 0.). Same route as previous one to Dijon. Erom Pontarlier i\\Q route leads up through the mts. to Berne ; the scenery is wildly beautiful. A branch leads from Pontarlier to Lausanne (fares from Paris, 67 fr., 47 fr. 80 c, 35 fr.).

From. Paris to Basle, by Troyes, Chmimont, Vesoul, and Belfort, the fortress which made a heroic resistance in 1870, and thence either through Alsace, touching at Mulhouse, or by nelle to Basle.

From, Paris to Basle, via Nancy, Strasbourg, aud Mulhouse (fare, 75 fr. 60 c). The interesting towus on this rout.p are Meaux {Hotel des 3 Uois), 25 M. from Paris, in a loveiy siniiition on tlif^ Marne. 8upf^v'i Gothic CatJiedral of St. hMeime, with Monuments oj Bossuet (who was Bishop of Meaux) and Philip oJ Castille. Ghdteau Thierry was the birth)3lace of La. foiitaine. From Epernay branch (fare, 3fr. 70c.) to "RhQims) Hotel Lion d''Or; Grand; Commerce), city of 105,000 iuhab. In its cathedral the kings of Prance have been crowned. See magnificent (jot\i\Q, Abbey C/i. of SI. Pemi, founded by Clovis in 6th century; and Cathedral, built 1212-1430, and one of the grandest

200 SEDAN. — TOUL. — NANCY. — THE VOSGES.

in Europe. It is 466 ft. long and 124 ft. liigli ; tilled with beautiful statues and monuments. Splendid rose- windows and interesting Treasury. Charles VII. was crowned here ; Joan of Arc standing by his side. The Hotel de Ville contains a fine public library. Rly. to Sedan {Hotel de la Croix d'Or'), where MacMahon's army of 80,000 men surrendered.

Beyond Epeniay on Ihe main line is Ch^lons-sur- Marne ; and Bar-le-Duc {Hotel du Cygne). Statues of Marshal Oudinotand Gen. Excelmans ; monument of the Prince of Orange, Toul, on the Moselle, is a for- tress which was besieged in 1870. Nancy ( Grand; Americain; de Paris), the old capital of Lor- raine, and the prettiest town in France, with a large Cathedral, an interesting Museum (in the Hotel de Ville), a splendid now Prefecture, and a fine speci- men of Flamboyant Gothic in the Palace of ihe Dukes of Lorraine. Mtre Dame de Bon-Secours contains the Tomb of Stanislas, ex-King of Poland, who lived in Nancy after abdicating his throne in 1735. See triumphal arch ; two fountains ; and Statues of Thiers, Oallot, Drouot, and Stanislas. Near the gate of St. Jean is the Cross of the Duke of Bur- gundy, close to which was found the body of Charles the Bold, after tlie celebrated battle (1477). Beyond Nancy you pass through the Vosges Mts. and down to Strasbourg,

ST. QUENTIN, — MONS. — VALENCIENNES. 201

BELGIUM.

WE now invite your attention to the route from Paris to Brussels and other sections of Belgium, our advice being that it is vi^ell to see portions of Bel- gium, Holland, and Germany before visiting Switzerland and Italy.

The most direct route from Paris to Brussels is from the Gare du Nord, via Tergnier, Maubeuge, and Mons (time, 6^ hrs. ; fares, 36fr. 20 c., 27 fr. 20 c., 18 fr. 90 c). You pass through St. Denis ; Cliantilly ; Creil ; Compiegne ; St. Quentin, an important manu- factaring centre, with a noble ch. as well as a magnifi- cent City Hall of the 14th and 15th centuries ; through the valley of the Sambre to Mauheuge and thence to Feignies, the French frontier. Mons (Jlotel Couronne) had a castle built by Julius Csesar. It is the centre of a great coal-mining countrj. Splendid interior of the Cathedral of St. Waudru (1450-1589) and Hotel de Ville (1158). Belfry built in 1662 by the Spaniards. At Malplaquet, 8 M. S. E., Marlborough defeated the French in 1700, and lost 20,000 men. Between Mons and Brussels is Hal, with the elegant 14th-century Notre Dame, still a place for pious pilgrimages. Before reach- ing Brussels you can see Ste. Gudule's towers.

Another route from Paris to Brussels traverses Amiens, Arras, Douai, and Mons (fares, 39 fr. 25 c, 29 fr. 45 c, 20 fr. 55 c). Douai {Hotel de Flandre) is an important place de guerre, and has an interestmg mu- seum and town-hall. Valenciennes is also a strong old fortress and a great manufacturing town. Here is a statue of Froissart, the chronicler, born in Valen- ciennes. From thence to Mons you pass through a

203 LILLE - NAMUR - LIEGE

fertile and populous country, by Jemmapes, where tho French won a great victory over the Austrians itf 1792.

There is also a direct route from Paris to Ghep-t bj Lille, Roubaix, and Courtrai (9 hrs. ; fares, 37 fr. 70 c.^ 28 fr. 25 c). Lille. {Hotel de I' Europe), a manufactur- ing town of 188,000 inhab., is a first-class fortress oit the river Deule. St. Catherines Ch. has an altar-piece by Rubens. In the Wicar Museum is a precious col- lection of drawings by the Italian masters. In the great square is a column commemorative of the Aus* Frian siege of 1792. Statue of Gen. Negrier, killed at Paris in 1848. Roubaix, 5 M. beyond, is a great woollen and cotton working town of 83,000 inhab. • production $40,000,000 yearly. Tourcoing, the PrepcJ^ frontier, is a factory-town.

From London one may go via Calais to Brussels by Lille and Tournai (fares from Calais, 21 fr. 30 c., 15 fr. 95 c, 11 fr. 40 c). Leaving London at 8.05 p.m. you reach Brussels at 6 a.m. (fares, £211 s., £1 18 s.)

From Paris to Liege, da Charier oi, is 228|- M. (ex- press in 8 hrs. ; fares, 42 fr. 40 c, 31 fr. 90 c, 21 fr. 35 c). This is also the route from Paris to Cologne (fares from Paris, 59 fr. 35 c, 44 fr. 20 c). Charle- roi is a modern town, an industrial centre of Belgium. The environs are fine. 46,000 workmen employed in coal-mining. The line crosses the Sambre 13 times on the way to Namur, a pretty fortified town, of Boman origin, with a vast old citadel, on the Meuse. It has several spacious squares, and a Pocnaissance Cathedral. Namur has sustained several celebrated sieges, — among others that of 1692, commanded by Louis XIV. in person. Archaeological Museum, worth visitin.^. From Namur you may go to Luxembourg.

Liege {d'Arigleterre ; de VUniv&i^s ; Chemin de

BELGIUM. 303

Fer; De8uede}.tl\e¥\em\sh LiiicJc nnd German Lilttich, has 140,000 inhab., and is picturesquely situated on the Meuse. See Quentin Durward for a recital of the

striking events in its history. This town, " tlie Shef- field of Belgium," is noted for its weapon-factories, and one quarter is given uj) to workshops. The Chs. of St. Jacques, SL FtiNl, St. Martin, St. CroLr (lOtli centuryj, St. Barthelemy, as well as the Cathedral St. Paul, should be seen. The Choir of the cathedral dates from tlie 13th century. The splendid Gothic Palais de Justice (described in Quentin I)urv:ard') was the palace of the prince-bishops, built in 1508-40 by Cardmal de la Marck, a relative of the " Wild Boar of the Ardennes." See Arch/pological Museum ; Hotel deVille; University (library, 100,000 vols.) ; the Com- munal Museum ; the Citadel, with grand vievvs; \\\^ Royal Cannon - foundry. The environs have beautiful scenery.

The route to Cologne traverses a picturesque region to Verviers (15| M.), a modern city of woollen-factories; tJience to Ai.r-la-ChapeUe. From Liege you may \asit Spa. On the way is Chaudfontaine i^Hutel des Bains; D'Angleterre), a famous watering-place. The waters (used in baths) are beneficial in nervous diseases. 8 M. . beyond is Pepinster, whence runs a branch line (^ hr.) to Spa [Hotel de Flandre ; H Orange ; De York ; Des Pays Bas ; Grand Hotel Britannique ; Casino, Hue Royale), one of the oldest of European watering-places. The climate is remarkably fine, although exposed to sudden variations, dangerous for consumptives. The waters are tonic (iron). 3-4 glasses should be taken daily, and the cure demands 6-8 weeks. Season, May 15-Oct. 15. 20,000 visitors come here annually. The village (6,000 inhab.) is in a pretty glen, anionp- wooded hills and scenery famous for beauty.

204 LUXEMBOURG. — BRUSSELS.

rrom Namur you may goto Luxembourg and Treves, and thence make a delightful excursion down the Mo> selle by steamboat to Coblence. You may also go from Liege (]09f M. hi 5-6 hrs.) to Luxembourg.

Luxembourg, the famous fortress, the capital of the g)*and duchy, was made a neutral state by the Treaty of London iu 1867. It is very picturesquely situated on a rocky plateau, with precipices on 8 sides. The Alzette valley is divided by a fortified rock called the Bock, on which is the ancient Wlelunina Tor>er. See Cathedral, Hotel de Ville, Archaeological Musi^unc,

Rlys. hence to Treves or Metz, by TMonuUe.

Brussels and Environs.

Brusseh (Hotel 3Ietropole ; De Flandre; Grand; De Vienne ; De V Europe ; Mengelle ; Hollap4e; De Saxe; de V'Em'pereur), the capital of Belgir«m, has (including suburbs) 475,000 inhab. To appreciate Brussels, read the liistories of the old tawn, — • the terrible period of the Spanish dominatioi, the riots and bombardments in the 17th centurj , the annexation to France, and tlie union with and acces- sion from tlie Low Countries. Brussels stands on an undulating plain. It is divided into the Upper and Lower Towns. On the hiil are the joajaces, the Park, and the fine Rue Royale. Below, in the picturesque older portion, are the commercial classes. Brussels is on the hue between the Walloons and Tlemings; and you will hear French and Flemish spoken, the former prevailing. Go first to the Gignde^Pkice, the ancient forum ol' Brussels. Note the exquisite fafade of the Hqfd de-Vi-Ue (built 1402-43), and the stately spire, 370 ft. high, at wliose top is a colossal statue of St. Michael. Entrance fee, 50 c. Beautiful tapes- tries and paintings in the Salle des Fetes, etc. Opposite

BELcauM. ::05

(is the MaL&im'djji^Roi, built by Charles V. (1514-25). j There were imprisoned Counts Escmont and Hoorne, and in front they were decapitated, in 1568. Many of picturesque houses on the Place were built by the Guilds, as meeting-places. Tournaments were held here in the 15th ce?itury. The famous 3Iannikin fountain is back of the Hotel de Ville. The GaUrie St.-Hubert is one of the finest arcades in Europe. In the steep Rue Montague de la Cour are the finest shops. At the top is the Place Royale. Go first fo the Ji2i.s£2ii?^ (Place du Musee). On the left is the great Palais de Vlndustrie, with statue of Prince Chcirles of Lorraine. The Museum of Painting (open lG-5 in summer) contains 13 canvases by Rubens; many Van Dycks, Holbeins, and Rembrandts. The AncifiJit Museum is rich in tapestries. In the Modern Museum there are many good pictures. Next take the Rue de la Regence, ending at the new Palais de Justice, which covers more ground than St. Peter's at Rome, and cost $8,400,000. Vast dome. Near by is the Palais des Beaux-Arts, with fine statues and groups ; the Palace of the Comte de Flandres ; the Place du Petit Sablon, with monuments to Counts Egmont and Hoorne ; the Royal Conservatory of Music; and the Synagogue. JSIest, going by the Rue Royale, visit the Park, a lovely promenade (military music, 3-4|, in summer); then to the King's Palace, simple, but well stocked with fine pictures. When the flag is up, the King is there. When he is not, strangers are admitted (2 fr.). Ministries in elegant buildings near the Park. The Palais des Academies is near the Park. This building, in Italian style, contams the Plaster Museum (free. 10-4) the Academies of letters, arts and sciences, and medicine: an/>

206 STE. GUDULE.-WATERLOO,

a noble concert hall, with paintings of episodes in Belgian history.

Ste. Gudale, the great Gothic Church (open all day ; to climb the towers, 1 person, 2fr. ; 2-6 persons, 3fr.), was founded in the 11th-century; choir and transept, 13th century; towers and nave, 14th. The carved pulpit, made in 1699, represents the Expulsion from Paradise. Superb stained-glass windows; and many rare old tombs.

'Other ObjecU of Lfferest. — Place de^ Martyrs, with monument to those who perished in the llevolution of 1830; Place des Barricades, and statue of Vesalius, tlie anatomist ; Place dv Jjuxemljoiirg, statue of Cocke- rill ; Place de la Monnaie, and Opera House ; Bourse ; Rue Neuve ; handsome nevr boulevards around tlie old city; Observatory; hospitals; National Bank; Mnsee Wiertz (fantastic compositions of a Belgian painter) ; Museum of Antiquities, and Porte de Hal ; precious paintings in Aremberg Palace ; Boiaiiical Garden ; Bois de la Camhre, the Bois de Boulogne of Brussels.

At Laeken, 2 M. N., is the Ch. of Ste: Marie, where members of the royal family are buried. In the cem= Btery, grave and statue of Malibran. — Boyal Palace, J.he King's favorite residence. Monument to Leo- pold I. — Manor of Bouchout, where dwells Carlotta, ex-Empress of Mexico.

Waterloo may be reached by rly. to Braine 1' Al- len d, and walk (^ hr.) to the Buttf du Linn, or to Waterloo^ and go over to t lie battle-field by omnibus ; or you can go by mail-coach from the Place Poi/alc, at 9.30 a.m. (round-trip, 7 fr. ; ooacliman, 1 \x?). Guides, Belgian and English, on the Held (f'^es, 2-4 fr.). Water- joo is a Flemish village. The Mt. St. Jean and the Butte dn Lion, on which is a "pyramid and a colossal. lion, should be visited. JSluse^ m at Llotel dn Mnsee.

BELGIUM. 207

Louvain {Hotel de Suede ; Du Nord), population 35,000, may be visited from Brussels in 1 hr, (fares, 2 fr. 30 c.,'l fr. 75 c, 1 fr. 15 c). This was one of the great weaving-centres ; but after 1383 the weavers went to England. The Hotel de Ville is one of the marvels of Belgium. This jewel of Gothic art was built 1448-63. Exterior lavishly decorated with stat- ues. The great Gothic Ch. of SI. Pierre (open, except 2-4) has a fine tabernacle and many remark- able paintings. Les Ha lies, built 1317, and the vast prison, should be seen. The University, founded in 1426, is Roman Catholic, and has 1,000 students (formerly 6,000).

Ghent, Bruges, Antwerp, etc.

You may visit Ghent and Bruges from Antwerp or Brus- sels ; oi", if you come directly from England to Ostend, you can go thi-ough Bi-uges and Ghent to Brussels. Fares, Dover to Ostend, 15 s., 10 s.; 68 M.; time, 4-6 hrs. Fares, Ostend to Brussels, 9 fr. 30 c, 6 fr. 95 c, 4 fr. 65 c.

Ostend (Continental; de la Plage; de V Ocean; Vic- toria; Lion dOr) is the second maritime town in Belgium (20,000 inh.) and the summer residence of the king. It receives about 18,000 visitors annually. Renowned sea-baths ; magnificent stone dyke, ^ M. long; monumental Cursaal; Leopold Park, filled with caf6s. Celebrated oyster-parks here. From Ostend it is 14 M. (fares, 1 fr. 75 c, 1 fr. 35 c, 90 c.) to

Bruges {Hotel de Flandre; de V JJnivers; Du Com- merce; St. Amand), 45,000 inh., on the grand canals to Ostend, Ghent, and Sluys. It is, like Amsterdam, called the ' * Venice of the North," because seamed with canals. Handsome rly. stat. Guides, 1-3 fr. The 18th century was the epoch of Bruges' greatest pros-

208 BRUGES.

parity. It was the centre of the trade of the Hanseatic League, and the chief coinniercial city of Europe. Its decline dates from 1545. In the Grand Place is the Meur de Ble Inn of whicli Longfellow sings. There also stood the house in which Maximilian was confined in the revolt of 1488 ; and opposite is tlie liome of Charles 11. of England, in his exile. The Cathedral (open daily, except 12-4; opened then for small fee) stands on the site of one built in 1358, and has a great num- Wv of fine old Flemish pictures (fee to cUmb the tower, 1 fr.). Noire Dame contains some veiled paintings, shown for a fee of | fr. The choir and nave date from 1186; the tower from 1250. It is the largest brick tower in Belgium, — 390 ft. high (fee, I fr.). Hand- some bronze doors ; exquisite marble group of the Virgin and Child, by Michael Angelo, over the altar. In chapel on r. (1 fr.), sumptuous ancient tombs ot Charles the Bold and his daugliter Marie. Carven pulpit. Large collection of paintings.

The Belfry of Bruges (see Longfellow), one of the quaint monuments of tlie Comn/unes, is 350 ft. higii, (fee, -^fr. below, ^ fr. above). The chimes (48 bells) play every quarter-liour. — The Hotel de Ville (1377) is a noble Gothic edifice, with 6 towers. — The Hospital St. Jean, W. of Notre Dame (open daily, except Sun., 9-12, and- 1-6, -^fr.), is renowned for its marvellous paintings by Hans Memling. Do not fail to see these. Tlie Chdsse de Ste. Ursule is the best. The Academy of Fine Arts (| fr.) has many remarkable picrures by the old masters. In St. Jacques are brass engraved monu- ments of Spanish families. — The Chapelle du St. Sang was built in 1150 as the receptacle for a phial tliat the Patriarch of Jerusalem had given to Tlieodoric of Elan- ders, with some drops of the Saviour's blood. Portal and staircase. Flamboyant Gothic. The P^dai^ de

BELGIUM. 209

Justice (rebuilt, 1723) has a carved c-himney -piece (1528-29) ill the Court Room (^fr). Bruj^vs, though decadent and melancholy, is celebrated for pretty girls and decorated old houses. See statues of Memling and Jan van Eyck. From Bruges it is f hr. (fares, 3fr. 40c., 2fr. 55c., Ifr. 70c.) to

Ghent (Hotel Royal; de la JPosie; de Vienne), a city of 145,000 inhab.. on the river Scheldt. The town is divided into 26 islands, and has 88 bridges. The history of Ghent is romantic. It became the capi- tal of Flanders in 1180. 200 years earlier, Baudouin had introduced weaving. The great Guilds, under Jacques van Artevelde^, etc., ruled this region for % centuries, and often came to blows among themselves, as on May 2, 1345, when 1,500 men were slain in a terrible street-battle. In tlie 15th century there were 40,000 weavers ; and the woollen workers alone fur- nished 18,000 men to the civic army. Charles V. was born in Ghent in 1500. From the Spanish domina- tion dates the decline. 11,000 inhab. emigrated at once to England and Holland. Louis XIY. took the town after a siege of 6 days, in 1698. In 1810 Napo- leon I. made a ceremonial entry, with Marie Louise.

Notice tlie Marclie du Vendredi, a great square surrounded by old houses. In the middle, the politi- cal forum of Ghent, stands a statue of Van Artevelde. In the Cathedral of St. Ba';on {oTpen daily, except 12-1) see the vast crypt, built in 991 and restored in 1228 ; the noble nave and transepts (1533) ', and the tower, built in 1533-34 (416 steps ; fee, 2 fr., 1-4 persons). See the picture of "The Adoration of the Spotless Lamb," by the brothers Van Eyck. Al- though more than 400 years old, it preserves its bril- liancy of coloring. Here also is a cAef-d'oeuvre of Rubens, Two statues of Sts. Peter and Paul ornament

210 GHENT. — MECHLIN.

the clioir. The Hotel de Fille, built 1481-1628, is a remarkably beautiful Flamboyant building, whose E. fayade is very striking. The Belfry, built 1183-1389, whose bells assembled the citizens, is 38G ft. liigh, and commands an extensive prospect over Flanders (ascj^it, 2 fr.). There are 44 bells in the chime, including Ro- land. The Beguinage, the chief curiosity in Ghent, is a community of women who are not bound by vows, but live by their own labors or resources. This insti- tution of secular saints had its origin in the 7<h century. The old Grand Beguinage formed a separate quarter of the city, surrounded by walls, and included 18 convejits and 100 houses. The new suburban one has many' handsome Gothic houses, aud a vast ch. 600 women live here, and make rich laces. See 8t. Jacques Ch. \ Sf. Nicholas and St. Michael, crowded with picture s ; Bt. Pierre, with rare old paintings ; the imposing Fains de Justice ; the University, with a splendid marjle rotunda, aud a library in old Baudeloo Monastery (100,000 vols.) ; aud the M/iseuni (t fr.) The O^idebn -g is a remnant of the old palace of the Counts of Flandeis, where John of Gaunt was born, 1340. On Marche du Veu'li-edi is an old cannon, such as stone missiles were tired from. See Botanical Giirden (Ghent is called ' ' The Queen of Flowers "j; Zoological Gai'den <f''e. Ifr.); y\\\\\s, ol Abbey of St. Bavou. Fai-es from Ghent.to Brussels, 4fi-. 35c , 3fr. 25c., 2fr. 20c.

From Brjissels to Antiverp trains \ un in 1 iir., pass- ing Malines, or Mechlin(La Cigogne; Beffer; de 'a Coui'OJine), a city of 40,000 inhcib., the ecciesiastijal capital of Belgium In 1572-80 the town was sac];i!d and burned by the Spaniards, the ti'oops of the Pri 1 3e of Orange, and Hie English. See the Cathedral of *5 'L Sombold,hegun in 1451. Imposing interior and ear i ;d pulpit. Huge tower, 320 ft. high, with a spleuiilid

BELGIUM. 211

ehime of 44 bells. In the S. transept is The Crucifixion, by Van Dyck. In Notre Dame is Rubens's Miraculous Draught of Fishes (1 tV.). JwSt. Jean is a hue Trlpti/ch by Rubens (i li'.). Mechlin is renowned for its beautiful lace.

Antweip {jliuilI ibc. ^nitotiie; Grand; Commerce; du Ellin; d' Aiigleterre; Be V Europe; Qrand La- houreur ; Be la Paix) is one of the most nourishing' com- mercial towns in Europe (340,000 inhab.), and one of the quaintest a.nd most replere with historical and artis- tic interest. Napoleon I. wished to malce Antwerp a great maritime arsenal, and built vast clocks; but the Antwerp jjeople have constructed others yet more vast. Oiimb the Catuedral Tower (75 c), and look over the crowded Scheldt, and over tiic Low Countries from Breda to Brussels. Tiie Cathedral (built 1352-1530) is ihe most imposing ch. in Belgium (open daily). Wlien closed, ask porter for ke\s (1 fr.). The innjestic interior (384 ft. long, 130 ft. high) is divided into 7 aisles, by 6 rows of col- umns. Choir built 1352-1411. Philip II. once held a Chapter of the Order of the Golden Fleece here. In 1566 tlie Iconoclasts did irreparable damage. "(See Motley's " Dutch Republic," for romantic episodes in Antwerp's history.) In the r. transept is Rubens's Descent from the Cross, usually kept veiled. In the 1. transept is R.ubens's The Elevation of the Cross. Above the high altar is The Assumption, also by Rubens. See stone outside with the epitaph of Queutin Matsys, and the sculptured pulpit and tabernacles. The mag- nificent tower is 402 ft. high (finished 1530) ; the eiiimes have 99 bells. Napoleon likened this tower to Mechlin lace. Near the portal is the celebrated iron well-canopv made by Quentin Matsys. 8t. Paul, St. Andrem. and St. Antoine contain rare old Flemish paintings. The Oh. of St. Jacques (built 1429-1507)

313 ROTTERDAM.

contains the tomb of Rubens, and many good pictures and sculptures (small fee). St. Augustine has pictures by Rubens, Van Dyck, etc. The Motel de Ville, built in 1561-65. contains splendid mural paintings (done in 1864-69) in the Salle Leys. Many old Guild houses (1513-79) near by. Visit the beautiful new Gothic Bourse; the Palais de Justice ; and the House of Ruhens (Rue Rubens), where the painter died. The Museum (open daily, 9-5) is the best in Belgium: 700 paintings here, with many Rubenses and Van Dycks (catalogue, S^fr.). For notable private collections inquire here. The new Boulevards, on the site of the walls; the vast docks, quays, and warehouses; the Park: and the statues of Rubens, King Leopold I., Van Dyck, and Teniers, are worth seeing. The Cita- del and fortifications are interesting.

Steamers from Antwerp to Rotterdam thrice weekly, in 9 hours; fares, 5 fr. 30 c, 3 fr. 20 c. 'To London, Sun., Wed., and Fri , 34 fr. To London via Harwich, daily, 34 fr., 26 fr. 70 c. Regular departures for all the great ports of the world.

HOLLAND.

rpHE tourist may very pleasantly and proiitably •^ spend 2-3 days in Holland. Go from Ant- werp (time, 4 hrs. ; fares, 10 fr. 45c., 7 fr. 70c., 4 fr. 90c ) to

Rotterdam {Maas; Leygraaf; Weimar; Goomans; de Hollande; de V Europe; Victoria), the second city in Holland (200,000 inhabitants). The Maas is here navigable for the largest ships; and the scene on the quay is very animated. Superb docks, and many canals. The steamboats land passengers near the

HOLLAND 213

Boompjes quay. Here stood the Dutch East India House, now turned into colonial warehouses. Rot- terdam builds many ships; has a heavy trade with Java and Sumatra, and steam lines to London and other Atlantic ports ; and is a great point for the departure of emigrants for America. The canals are bordered with trees, and the suburbs are pleasing. The Iloogstraat^ the Willen)skade, the new quay, are worth seeing. The Museum (open daily, 11-3 ; ^ f r. ) has fine examples of Rembrandt, Rubens, Durer, "Wouvermans, and Ary Scheffer. In the Oroote-Kerk is a noble organ ; also monuments of several famous admirals. Good view from the tower, 297 feet high (60 c.). The Old Ch., the S. Ch., the new Toiv7i Hall, the Exchmige, the Botanical fxardens, the Zoological Gardeus, may be easily seen in an after- noon. The statue of Erasmus stands m the Groote- Markt; and on the house which was his birthplace is the inscription, Hcec est parva domus, magnus qua natus Erasmus. The Neiv Park is W. of the town. Walk along the Maas, noting the peculiar costume of the peasantry and tiie singular neatness of the houses. From Rotterdam to the Hague takes \ hr. (fares. 1 fl. 20 c, 1 fl. 60 c). On this route is Schiedam, renowned for its distilleries (see Hotel de

Ville and Hxcltange) ', and Delft (Hotel Lubrechfs), a very ancient Dutch town, once famous for porce- lain, but now dull and dignified. The staircase on which Wilham of Orange was shot (1584) is still shown. It was from Delft that the Pilgrims embarked for Plymouth, America (1620). In the Otide Kerk^ see the tomb of Admirals Van Troinp (1653), Hein, etc. In the Nieuwe Kerk (1412-76) is the magnificent Mausoleum of William of Orange.

The Hague {Hotel Bellevue; d,es hides; de V Europe; Vieux Doele7i ; Ce7itral), beautifully situated (0?i<ie Dobi^in), the capital of Holland (156,000 inhab ), is

214 THE HAGUE. — SCHEVENINGEN.

in summer one of the most charming places in Europe. It nestles in a delightful forest, where all the character- istics of Dutch scenery — mossy trees, green banks, and winding brooks and canals — appear. The Museum (open free daily, 9-3 ; Sat., 10-1 ; catalogue, 50 c.) contains the very best examples of the Dutch school of art, and many other celebrated paintings, — Paul Potter's famous Bull, Rembrandt's School of Anatomy, the Presenta- tion in the Temple, etc. On the E. is a statue of Wil- liam the Silent (1848). In the Buitenhof, statue of William II. Opposite the Royal Palace, equestrian statue of Prince William I. See the Marine Museum, with its wonderful collection of models for ships ; the Roi/al Library {im,Qm vols.) ; the collection of 40,000 coins and medals ; the Gfoote Kerk, with its beautiful tombs ; the Kloster Kerk ; the New Ch., where Spinoza is buried. The ponderous old, Binnenhof Palace and the Buitenhof square are of great historic interest. The Grand Council now holds its sessions in the an- cient torture-room. Beyond the Buitenliof you reach the gloomy Gevangenport tower, where De Witt was slain in 1672. In the Willems-Park is the grand Na- tional Monument (built 1863-69), covered with statues. The national buildings are plain and substantial. On the Noordeincle is the Royal Palace, and the old Mu^ seum of King William II. Prince Frederick'' s Palace is not far from the Park. See the pretty royal villa called Huis ten Bosch, built in 1647, and filled with treasures of art (fee, 1 fl ). Erom the Hotel Bellevue, steam tramway (2^-3 M.) to the pretty seaside resort of Scheveningen {Grand Hotel des Bains, prices mod- erate), a fishing-village among the dunes. In summer, the fashionable world of North Germany, Holland, and England, and many people from the S., assemble here Beautiful sea views ajid fine forests, Leyden and Haar-

HOLLAND. 215

Um may be visited between The Hague and Amster* dam (fares to Amsterdam, 4 fl., 3 fl. 5c., 2 "fl, ; to Leyden, 80 c., 60 c. , 40 c. ; from Leyden to Haarlem, 1 flo. 40 c.; Ifl., lOc, 70c.).

Leyden {Hotel Lezedag ; Lion cVOr ; Central: 40,000 inhab., famous for the great siege (see Mot- ley). It possessed 100,000 weavers. Leading ob- jects of interest; the spacious Hooglandsche Kerk; the Natural History Museum (open daily, free), witli the finest cabinet of anatomy in Europe (o})en daily, 2-5, except Sun ); the Museum of A ?itig uities (oi:)en free Sun., 12-7, Tues., Thurs., and Sat., 11-4) ; the Jap- anese Museum (open daily, 50 c.) ; the jVumumatio (open daily, 12-3) ; the University (600 students), founded after the siege, with excellent observatoiy ; Library, 3,000 oriental MSS. (open Mon., Wed., and Sat., 12-3) ; the Botanic Gardens (E. Indies plants) ; and the old Castle of Hrusus. The Hr.el de Ville has many inscriptions relative to the siege of 1574.

Haarlem {Lion d'Or ; Filnckler ; Leeuwerik) is a town of 28,000 inhab. The siege by the Span- iards in 1572, and the heroic defense, are de- scribed in Motley's picturesque history. The GatJie- dral is very spacious ; 28 columns in the nave. The vast organ, with 5,000 pipes, is played Tues. and Thurs., 1-2 ; at other times 12 fl. for a party. Visit the interior. Marble crypt under the organ. From the tower extensive view. See the Teyler Afiiseum; the statue of Coster, inventor of printing with metal types ; Coster's House ; the Museum of JSatural His- tory ; and the house of the rich banker, Hope,

Amsterdam {Amstel; PaysBas; OldBiUe; Brack's Doelen ; Rondeel ; Americain; Palais Royal) is a city of 400,000 inhab., named from the Amstel, an inlet of the Zuider Zee, communicating with the North Sea, by the N. Holland Canal, 50 M.

216 AMSTERDAM.

long, the most gigantic undertaking at the time ever execute'd. It commences opposite Amsterdam, and ex* tends to the Holder and the Texel ; cost $5,000,000. The town is built upon piles driven into the sand. Its canals are spanned by more than 300 bridges. The finest view is from the Hooge Sluys. Near by is St. Anthony's Gate, with 5 towers (built 1488-1585). The Palace is a huge stone structure, standing on 13,695 piles. Neai- it are the Bam, the memorial of 1831, the Exchange^ the Fost-Office, the Nieuwe Kerk, the Sea- man's Club. From the tower, one has a ma.gmu- cent panorama of the city. Fine marble sculp- tures on the palace front. The Throne Hall, the Grand Hall, decorated with trophies, and the Au- dience Hall, are remarkable (fee, 50 c). The Botan- ical and Zoological Gardens (latter, 75 c.) are equal to those of any oilier city. TJie principal museum (free daily, 10-3), the Trippenhuis, has the best collection of paintings in Holland (get catalogue). Note the works of Rembrandt. This and the Vanderhoof collection are now in Ryks Museum. The Oude Mannenhuis is open, 10-4. The Fodor 3Imeum has very good Fi-ench and Butch pictures. The Historical Gallerij is devoted to episodes in Dutch history (open daily, 50 c. ; catalogue 75 c). See Fos Museum; statue of Rembrandt ; monu- ment to Yan Speyk ; Blind Asylum ; Zeemanshoop (Sailors' Hope), a club with 2,000 members ; Normal School of Navigation ; Sailor s Home ; great range of state warehouses, on Etitrepot Dock; Park, good music on Sun. ; shops where diamonds are polished ; Jewish quarter J Cellular Prison; and Crystal Palace. Am- sterdam is the cleanest city in "Europe; on a bright Sunday it presents a charming spectacle. Notice the Fountain, commemorating the events hi 1830-31 lu the old ch on the Dam, monument to Van Ruyter

UTRECHT. 217

Pleasant excursions to Barmen, and other pretty sub- urban towns. Broek, 6 M. out, is a wonderfully clean village. At Zaandam is the house where Peter the Great worked when learning the shipwright's k'ade. Good fish dinners here. It is 1 hr. (23 M. ; fares, 1 fl. 70 c, 1 fl. 25 c, 85 c.) from Amsterdam to

Utrecht {Kastcel van Antwerpen; Pays B as ; de V Europe; de la Station), the l\oman Trajedum, and the home of many Dutch families of rank. Noble Cathedral here; constructed in the 13lh century, and much tried by hurricanes and iconoclasts. The people of Utrecht boast that from the tower, 321 ft. high, you can see all Holland. In the church, fine organ and magnificent mausoleums. South of the cathedral is the U nimrsitp , founded in 1636, very rich ; 600 students ; splendid li- brary and remarkable Museum of JS'atii.ral His- tory. The Palace of the Popes, founded by Adrian VI., with a statue of St. Salvador, is now the palace of the provincial government. Adrian was born in Utrecht. In the Stad/mls are a ie\Y pictures, J'ine new boulevards around the city.

From Utrechu you can begin your journey up the Rhine. Take rail to jJitsseldorf, passing Arnhem, thj Arenacum of the ancients. Th: Romans encamped here 70 years B.C., and i*; was for a long time the resi^ deuce oi th Dukes i Guelders. See the Cathedral, with tomb of Count .5gmont. Tower, 333 ft. high; wonderful chimes. The Palace of Justice has ^ fine court-room. Emmerich {^Hotei de Hollande) is the firsi German towu.

218 DiJSSELDORF. — COLOGNE.

GERMANY AND AUSTRIA.

•

FROM Utrecht to Emmerich, 4 fl. 50 c, 3 fl. 40 c, 2 ii. 25 c. i 54i M. From Emmerich ^o Diissel- dorf, fares, 7 mks. 60 pt., 5 mks. 70 pf., 3 inks. 80 pf. ; to Cologne, 11 risks. 20 pf., 8 mks. 40 pf., 5 mks. yOpf. ; to Eiaukfovt, 28 mks. 80 pf., 21 mks, 20 pf., 13 mks. 50))f.

Diisseldorf {BreidenbacJier Ilof ; Royal ; Heck; Momischer Kaiser),H,citj of 210,000 iiihab. , is the prin- cipal art-centre on the Rhine. The Academy of Arts was founded in 1767 ; it occupies Renaissance build- ing erected m 1879; contains lecture-halls, studios, etc. Here, also, are the remains of the famous Gallery of Art, and many drawings, of all schools (open Mon., Wed,, Pri., and Sat., 12-1). Handsome Rhine Bridge; Hofgarten,next to Pempelfurtergarten (now Malkasten Club), haunts of Goethe and Herder. Ch. of St. Lambert contains the tombs of the last Dukes of Cleve and Berg, and a good picture by Achenbach. /S/. ^/i<ire2<.''s is very interesting. In the hall of the Realschule is a freize by Bendemann, In the Courts of Justice see Schadow's " Heaven, Hell, and Purgatory." Many fine modern paintings in the Kuustlialle. See statues of Elector John William 111., Cornelius, Emperor William 1., Bismarck. Museum of Industry and Art will repay visit. Several exhi- bitions of pictures in the town; fees, 50 pf. It is ^-f hr. by rly,, or by boat 5 hrs., to

Cologne {Hotel du Nord ; Disch; Kolner Hof; Victoria; Du Dome; Ernst), the sixth town in the German Empire (360,000 inhab.), and an important garrison. Streets are dark, narrow and mediaeval. Many houses date from the 13th century. 70 wide

COLOGNE. 219

streets have lately been laid out. Cologne was founded by the Ubii, when Agrippa transfei-red them to the 1. bank of the Rhine ; and colonized by Roman veterans when Germanicus held command, as Colonia Agrippina. It was tlie residence of the legates of Lower Germany. Constantine the Great built a bridge here in 308, afterwards destroyed by the Normans. From the 5tli century it was a part of the Frankish kingdom. Exten- sive Roman remains here.

The Cathedral, the grandesl Gothic building in the world, was begun iu 1248. The choir was consecrated in 1322, and the nave in 1388 ; but about 1500 the work ceased, and in 1795 the French troops used the half-ruinous ch. for a hay-magazine. Construction was resumed in 1823, and more than $3,000,000 spent upon it between 1842 and 1880, when it was consecrated, with imposing ceremonies. The superb W.faqade and lofty portals are flanked by 2 huge towers, crowned by open spires, over 500 ft. high. The bells were placed in the S. tower in 1447; and in 1874 a new 30-ton bell, made from French cannon, was added. A forest of flying buttresses joins the nave and aisles. The total length is 444 ft. ; breadth, 201 ft. ; height of nave, 145 ft. There are 4 aisles ; and the triple-aisled transepts extend to the imposing N. and S. portals. Tlic-re are 56 vast columns inside. The sfamed win- dows in the N. aisle dare from 1508-9 ; those in the S. aisle (equally beautiful) are Munich work of 1848. The Choir contains 14th-century statues of the 12 Apostles, 15th-century carved stalls, ancient stained windows, modern fresces of angel-choirs, modern tap- estries, and 7 wonderful chapels, with venerable tombs of the archbishops, the Bavarian Electors, etc. The reliquary in the Chapel of the Three Kings contains the bones of the Magi, carried to Constantinople bjf

220 COLOGNL.

the Empress Helena, thence to Milan, and preai?nted by Barbarossa to Cologne's archbishop in 1164. Tl?. heart of Marie de Medicis is buried liere. The Librari^ contains Hildebald's precious MSS. ; and many deeply inleresiiiig relics are in the Treasury and in the Archie epii^co'pal Museum, S. of the ch. See inner and outer galleries of the choir. The ch. is open all day, but walking about is not allowed during service.

Over the rly. -bridge are equestrian statues of Fred- erick William' IV. and VV illiain 1. W. of the Cathedral is the great Gothic Museum (open 9-4, 50 ])f.) with many hundred paintnigs, and very interesting Koman and mediaeval relics. In the adjaceni Mii^orites' Ch., Duns Scotus is buried. Beautiful Gothic cloisters. Sf. Gereons Ch. (fee, Imk.), contains the bones ef the Theban Legion, martyred at Cologne, under Diocletic^n. Skulls and bones of the martyrs to be seen in the choir. Curious crypt. In ^5'/. Ursula is the tomb of tha^ unhappy prineeas, who, with her 11,000 virgin com- panions, was massacred at Cologne on her return from Rome. The ch. (5th century; resTored) has a Gothic portal. You are shown the bones of the mart^yrs in all parts of the ch. In the Treasury (fee, \\ mk ) is St. Ursula's Reliquary. Great St. Martin has a majestic tower, and an exquisite baptismal font, given by Pope Leo II. Sta. MMria-Im-Capif(jl, consecrated in 1049 by Pope Leo IX., is an imposing Kon^anesque ch. St. Peter lias an altar-piece by Rubens, o/. Cecilia dates from 1200. li^he. J pasties' Ch. (1200) has a picturesque choir. St. Cumbert (1248) lias rich frescos and glass.

See the Gurzenieh; the Roman Tower ; the house in which Marie de Medicis died in exile and poverty; the Mon.ument to Frederick William III., surrounded by statues of statesmen and generals who relieved the Rhine from French domination ; and the bronze statue

AIX-LA-CHAPELLE. 221

of Bismarck. The RafJihans (13tli century) has the Lion's Court, and tlie quaint iiall in which tiie first Diet of the Hanseatic League was held. See Botanic and Zoological Gardens, and the manj' " original and only '* shops where the Farina Eau de Cologne is sold.

l|hr. from Cologne (fares, 6 mks., 4| mks., 3mks.), on the rout&s to Belgium and Paris, is Aix-la-Cha- pelle {Hotel Grand Monarqve ; Nuellens ; De VEm- perenr ; Belleoue ; Dragon d'Or), the Aachen of the Germans and the Aquisgrannm of the Bomans. This was the favorite residence of Charlemagne, and here he died in 814. Aix was at one time the capital of all the country N. of tlie Alps. 37 German emperors were crowned here. For centuries the Imperial Diets were lield here. The modern town is handsome, with the 1 characteristics of a watering-place. The warm Snlphur I Springs were renowned in the Roman era, and wonder- j fid cures are still effected by them. The most impor- j tant is the Kaiserquelle. At the Elisenhrunnen crowds I assemble daily in summer to drink the waters. The y Kt'.rhaus has a superb concert-hall (fee, 50 pf.). In I the Market-place is a fountain, with statue of Charle- magne. Tlie great Cathedral is in two sections : the quaint-roofed Byzantine octagon (in the style of San Vitale, at Ravenna), built by Charlemagne, 796-804, and consecrated iDf Pope Leo III. ; and the lofty choir, in the best Gothic style (1353-1413). The octagon contains many fine columns, brought from Rome and I Ravenna; bronze doors, cast in 804; and the pulpit, rich in gold and gems, presented by Henry IT. See the stained windows, designed by Cornelius; and the 1 14th-century statues. The tomb of Charlemagne was I opened by Otho TIT. hi 1000; and by Barbarossa in jllOS when tlie body was removed from the marble Hhrone on which, it was seated, and placed in a Parian

222 AIX-LA-CHAPELLE — BONN.

sarcophagus. The throne (afterwards used in tin coronation ceremonies) and the sarcophagus are noif in the gallery. The bones of Charlemagne are en- shrined in the Treasury, where are also the girdles of Christ and Mary, a piece of the True Cross, etc. (Open daily, 9-1, 3-6 ; 3 mks. for 1-3 persons.) Notice the old Flemish paintings inside of the cabinet-s. Some of the holy treasures, such as the swaddling-clothes of the infant Saviour, are shown but once every 7 years.

The Rathhaus was built out of tlie (h'hru of the pal- ace of the Carlovingian emperors (1376). The Ball of the Emperors (75 pf.) has noble frescos. The Warriors^ Monume7it commemorates the soldiers slain in 1&66 and 1870-71. Suermofidf Museum has some good pictures.

Up the Rhine by Steamer^

The journey can be made in 1 day from Cologne to Mayence. It is better to take 2 days, stopping at Coblence. There is a rly. on either bank, but the steam- boat is preferable. If, however, you wish to go frojn Cologne to Frankfort by rail, you can do so in 4 hrs. (fares, 12 mks., 9 mks., 6 mks.). By steamboat (large and tine boats) the fares from Cologne to Coblence are

3 mks. 60 pf., 2 mks. 40 pf; by the express boat the fare is 3 mks. 70 pf. From Coblence to Mayence, 3 mks. 70 pf, 2| mks. ; by express boat, 4i mks. Through tickets allow stopping otf, but be careful to resume the journey by the boats of the same company. You can take rail from Cologne to Bonn (21 M. ; fares, 2|- mks. , If mks., 1 mk. 80 pf.); from Cologne to Coblence (7 mks. 70 pf., 5 mks. 60 pf., 3 mks. 90 pf.) ; from Coblence to Frankfort (10 mks. 40 pf., 6 mks. 90 pf.,

4 mks. 40 pf . )

Bonn (Goldener Stern, capital house; Du JSford; Kley; Royal; Rheineck) has a beautiful location.

UP THE EHINE. 223

eiust beyond, the banks become bold and pre- cipitous, and the beauties of the famous stream begin. The University occupies the okl castle, built in 1717-30 as an electoral palace, and 1,800 ft. long. It has a library of 250,000 vols.; museums of Roman and Teutonic antiquities and of Arts (75 pf . each ; catalogues for sale). See bronze statue of Beethoven in the Miinsterplatz. The Ca- thedral, founded by the mother of Constantiue, is a crucitbriii basihca, with two clioirs and a high octagonal tower. Bi'onze statue of the Em]n-ess Helena inside. Beethoven's birthplace is in the Boungasse. The Po/j. yelsdorfer Schloas, reached by a quadruple avenue oi horse-chestnuts ^ M. long, contains a very large natural- history collection (fee, 75 pf.). Chemical Laboratory near by. The Aiiatorde, a noble edifice, liuished in 1872, is not far off. Be^'ond Poppelsdorf is \\\q Kreuz. berg, 400 I't. high, on which is a ch. containing the B-olij Siulrcaae, built in imitation of that at Home, and to be mouuted on the knees only. Bonn was the Cas~ tra Boniieima of Tacitus, a great Roman fortress. It has suffered terrible sieges. The Coblemerdraase is very handsome. The Procburial Miuseum, and the Home of Arndtave interesting. On the A/te ZoU is the Moiuimerit- toArndt. In tlie cemetery are buried Niebuhr tiie his- torian, Schiegel, Robert Sclmmami, Arudt, and ^oji

Buuiicn.

Konigswinter (/Jo/tiZ de rEnropt; Jlaltem ;

Rieffel; Munopol), on the E. bank of the Rhine, is the poini whence to visit the Siebengebirge. The Drachenfels (916ft high) may be ascended don- key bairk, ui carriages, or by cog-wheel rail- way. Eaif-way up is the far-viewing tower on the Hirschherg. To the W. is the Monument in memory of the events of 1813-15. The Castle stands near the Terrace (wliere 'here is a good

224 ROLANDSECK. — NONNENWERTH.

hotel). It was built about 1100 by the first arclibishop of Culogue, and takes its uame from a dragon slaiu tliere by Siegfried, the Niebeluugeu hero. The red wine made from its vineyards is called Drugotis Blood, The castle was destroyed by Ferdinand of Bavaria, after a long siege, llnins still magnificent. Superb view of the Seven Mts., the basalt cliffs behind Remagen, Ober winter, the ruins of Holandseck, Bonn, and Co- logne. See the cavern where the fabled dragon had Lis abode. An excursion may be made to the Oelherg, the view from which is the most extensive in the Rhiue- laud. Thence it is 1^ lir. to Heisterbach, an old Cis- tercian abbey, in a beautiful valley. Little is left of the magnificent ch., built about 1200. From the Oei- berg, the Lowenhurg (1,504 ft.), a castle where the Elector of Cologne had interviews with Melancthou before becoming a Protestant, may be reached. Fins view. Return from Heisterbach to Konigswinter in f lir. by the Peters berg, whence good view. Konigswinter is aear most charming scenery.

The boat touches at Rolandseck {B:oiel Roland' seek; Victoria; Decker; BeUevue)^ ^ hr above Ko- nigswinter. From restaurant at the railway sta- tion, fine view of the Seven Mts., and the Rhine «o Remagen. Rolandseck is a very popular sum- mer-resort. Ruined Castle stands on a basalt rock, 347 ft. above the Rhine. It was founded fcy Roland, the Paladin of Charlemagne, who died at itoncesvalles. The island of Nonnenwerth, where stands the convent in which the beautiful llildegardt; Is said to have taken the veil when she heard that Roland had perished in Spain, may be reached by a 6U)ull boat (return-fare, ] mk.). This convent is men* tioned in a document of the 12th centuiy. It was sup- pressed in 1802, reconsecrated in 1845, and closed ftgaiii \u 1876. See Bulwer's Filgrims of the Rhine^

UP THE KHINE. 225

and Rchiller's ballad of Ritter Toggenburg. At Rliein- hreitbacJb (W. bank) is a large town, with towers, at the entrance of a valley filled with copper-mines. At TJiikel (W. bank) the cliffs stand out into the bed of the stream, producing: a rapid. Just above is

Remagen {Hotel Fur stenberg ; Koniiig von Preus- sen; Rliem ; Anker), noticeable for its church on the Apollinarisberg (a hill to the N ). a pretty Gothic edifice with four towers, entirely modern, on on the site of an old pilcfrimage-shrine of the Middle Ages. It was built by Zwirner, architect of Cologne Cathedral, and contains 10 grand frescos, masterpieces of modernGermanart(open7 A.M. to8 p m.; Sun. after 10; fee, 30pf.). The legend states that when the Arch- bishop of Cologne was descending the Rhine (in 1164) with the bones of the Magi and the hend of St. Apol- linaris. Bishop of Ravenna, his boat was stopped here, by some mysterious power, until tlie latter was placed in the chapel on this site. Remagen was a Roman town {Rigomagns) , but lost its importance in the Thirty Years' War. Beautiful excursions thence, between bc^ld basaltic hills, up the Valley ofthe Ahr^ where 4.000 000 bots. of red wine are produced yearly.. It is 7 M. (carriage, 4 mks.) to the Baths of NeuenahVy a charming watering-place, with warm alkali spriijgs^ used for lung and liver diseases. Ahrweiler, a quaint, little walled town, has fine view from Calvarienberg, Ruined castles and pretty villages abound.

Opposite Remagen, over ^>7^e/ (E. hank) is a basaltic, cliff 642 ft. high. "Linz {Weinstock) is an ancient town on the W. bank, with walls and pavements of basalt, and a 13th century Romanesque ch., contain- ing a triptych of the ancient Cologne school of art. The adjacent hills have interesting basalt-quarries,, and crosses commemorating the battles of Leipsic and Waterloo rise on two of them. Arenfels castle, above

226 HAMMERSTEIN. — ANDERNACH.

Liiiz, lately restored, lias an ancient round tower, and, in the Knights' Hall, a collection of armor. Rheiiieck (W. bank), the boundary betvi^een tlie upper mid lower Klienisk districts, is a lofty Romanesque castle on the site (and with a tower) of the fortress of the Rheinach family, founded in the 12tli century. It may be visited from Brohl (| hr.), and has some fine paintings (fee, 50-75 pf.) and a superb view^ It w^as sacked by the Freneh in 1689 and by ti'oo]3S of Cologne in 1692. Farther up, near Brohl, is Hammerstein, a lOth-ceu- tury castle, w^here Henry IV. took refuge from his sons, and which w^as held, during the Thirty Years' War, by Swedes, Spaniards, Germans, and Lorrainers, In 1660 the Archbishop of Cologne destroyed this too pow^erful neighbor, Roman ruins 4 M. E.

Andernacli {IrLotel Hackenbrucli ; Glocke), on the "W . bank, lias narrow streets, ancient walls, a niany- tow^ered Romanesque ch. (1206), and a lofty watch- tower, built in 1414-68, and breached by French guns in 1688. It w^as one of tlie 50 forts of D^'usus ; re- captured, from the Alemanni by Julian in 339 ; a royal Franconian residence in the 6th century ; an im- perial town later ; stormed })y Cologne troops in 1496 ; and burned by the Fi-ench in 1688. The deep moat and massive towers of the castle remain (see Long- fellow's 7:(%y(??7o;i/). Tramway to the Benedictine Abbey of Laach, founded in 1093, with magnificent Roman- esque ch. and cloisters, on the vast crater-lake of the Laacker See (6 M. around).

The Rhine now flow^s throngii a defile, between rnu'ged heights. Neuwied {Goldenev Anker; Wilder Mann; Moramaii), on the E., has the palace and park of the Prince of Wied, and a com- munity of austere Moravian Brethren, v.'itli admira- ble schools and workshops. Morirepo.^ is a chateau of the Prince, near by ; and AUwied, 31 M. out (car-

UP THE EHINE. 227

riage, 4 inks.), is a picturesque ruined castle. Weissen- thurm is opposite Neuwied, witli a Avliite watch-tower marking the boundaries of Treves and Cologne. Above is an obelisk to General Hoche, erected by a French army crossing the Rhine in 1797- Near Engers (E. bank) are fragments of Roman masonry, supposed to be parts of Julius Ca3sar's bridge across the lihine (see Commentaries). Miihlhofen (E. bank) is 1^ M. from the ruins of Sayn castle, and the great modern cha- teau of Sayn, rich in art. Kesselheim (W. bank) is near Schonbornslust, an old palace of the electors of Treves and of the exiled Bourbons. On Niederwerth island, where Edward III. of England lived in 1337, is an old convent ch. At Neuendorf the small timber- rafts from the Upper Rhine and Moselle are enlarged and strengthened, before drifting Holland ward. The high fortress of Ehrenbreitstein now comes into view, and the palace of the Prussian King.

Coblenz {Gia7it ; Bellevue ; Monopol ; Anker; Traube), the capital of Rhenish Prussia (40,000 inhab.), is at the confluence of the Rhine and Moselle, wheMce the Romans called it Confluentia. It is a pow- erful fortress, w/tli heights crossed with enormous forti- fications, and a garrison of 5,U00 soldiers. The Palace was built by tne lasf Elector of Treves, and contains inte;-esting JElectoral Hall and Festival Hall, with por- traits, tapestries, etc. (fee, 25 pf.). The Mahizer-Thor and others of the city gates are worthy of notice. St. Castor is a handsome 4-towered basilica, founded iu 836 and rebuilt in 1208. Before it v^ the historic Castor Fountain. The Moselle Bridge (14 arches) dates from 1344. Monument of Emperor William I. at junction of Rhine and Moselle. Archiepiscopal Palace (now a factory) dates from 1276; the Liebfrauenkirclie^ from th« 13th century; the Merchants' Hall, from

228 EHRENBREITSTEIN. — EMS.

1480. The Rhine Tromenade is a beautiful waterside park. The Kuhkopf, 1,190 ft. high, commands a grand view over the Rliine and Moselle valleys. Fort Franz, on the Petersberg, and Forts Alexander and Constantine (superb view hence) guard the city. Across the Rhine is Ehrenbreitstein, " Honor's Broad Stone " (open daily; small fees for ticket and to guide), "Tiie Gibraltar of the Rhine/' a vast fortress on a precipitous rock, 387 ft. above the river, and commanding a wonderful view. It was granted by King Dagobert to the arch- bishops of Treves in 636, and has been beleaguered many times, but yielded only twice. The French de- stroyed the works in 1801 ; but they were rebuilt, 1816-26, at a cost of $6,000,000.

Excursions from Coblence. — It is 1 hr.'s rly. ride (1^ mk., 1 mk., 70 pf.), or 7 M. walk from Ehrenbreitstein to Ems {Hotel d'Angleterre; De Russie; Des Quatre Saisons ; Darmstad^, a little town on the Lahn, amid wooded heights,anniially visited byl2, 000 health- seekers (season, July 15-Sept. 1). The waters (saline and alkaline) are beneficial in pulmonary and female complaints, and have been used since 1354. The Kur- haus and Kursaal are the centre of the exotic life, and stand amid pleasant gardens.

Up the Moselle, by steamer 1171 M. (6 mks,, 4 mks.), 4 times weekly, in 1^ days, passing' the night at Trarhach, and reaching Treves at 3 P.iv. Voyage back to Coblence, 12 hrf . (8 mks., 5 mks. 30 pf.). Rly. to Treves in 2| hrs. (69^ M. ; fares, 9 mks., 6 mks. 80 pf., 4^ mks.). The valley of the Moselle is very beautiful, and interesting historically. Over Cobern is a wonderful pilgrimage-chapel; over Brodenhach the splendid Ehrenburg ruin ; over Cochem, twG fine castles and a monastery; over Trarbarh, the ancient Grafinbnrg ; and near JS'ettmagen, Roman ruins.

UP THE MOSELLE. 239

Treves ( Hotel de Treves; Porta Nigra; Luxem- bourg; /Stadt Venedig; Post), on the Moselle, was the capital of the Treviri ; then the Auousta Trpvirorum of the Romans ; then capital of Gaul, ar-d Rome's rival in art and commerce. This oldest city of Germany has only 40,000 inhab. ; although its well-preserved amphitheatre, in which Constantine delivered thousands of Franks to be torn by wild beasts (a.d. 806), accomniodaies 30,000 spectators. The vast ruins of the Roman Baths were connected Tvith the Palace of the Emperors. The Porta Nigra is a huge Roman gateway of blackened sandstone, 115 ft, long and 93 ft. high. The Catliedral dates from 550, — a vast structure, under which repose the archbishops and electors of Treves. Here are preserved Christ's seamless robe, a nail from the Cross, a fragment of the Crown of Thorns. Cloisters run thence to the Lieh-^ frauenkirche, a beautiful circular ch. (1243). Tlie Basilica, built before Constantine, successively a Ro- man court-house, exchange, imperial governors' palace, bishops' palace, and barrack, is now a ch. The Museum and Town Library contain rare MSS., portraits, and Roman antiquities. Rly. from Treves to Thionville and Luxembourg (| hr.).

Ascending the Rhine from Coblenz, Capellen {Hotel Slolzenfels ; Hotel Bellevue) is reached (W. bank), over which rises the royal castle of Stohenfels (en^ trance, 25pf. ; donkeys to ride up and back, Im. 20pf.), 420 ft. above the Rhine, with a magnificent view. It was built in 1250 by the Archbishop of Treves, and ii^ihabited by his successors. The French destroyed it in 1688; and since 1823 it has been restored by the Prussian King. Rich historica I frescos in Chapel and Knights' Hall; many rare old pictures and curiosities.

Oberlahnstein ( Welter; L!inhor7i), opp. Capellen (fei-ry every f hr., 10-20 pf.), near the lately restored

S30 BOPPAKD. — ST. GOAR.

castle oi Lahneck. Above Capellen is Konigsstuhl, ■where the 4 Rhenish Electors used to meet, in open air, to elect emperors and conclude treaties. The Em- peror Charles IV. built a castle here in 1376. Farther up is Rhense (W.), with walls and a moat constructed fey the Archbishop of Cologne hi 1370. Braubnch is tinder Marksburg, an imposing castle 492 ft. above the Rhine, founded before 1400, and still uninjurer" and inhabited. Old Swedish and French cannon here.

'BoTp'pdirdiZum Spiegel; llirsch; Glosmann; Rliein; Lange), on the W". bank, was a Celtic town : forti- fied by the Romans, and named Bodobriga : headquarters of the 13th Legion ; seat of a lodge of Knights Templar ; and an Imperial town. The inner wall is Roman, the outer wall mediaeval ; and tlie two churches date from 1200 and 1500. The high-placed Marienberg, formerly a Benedictine nunnery, is now a water-cure. The situation is lovely, in a broad bend of the Rhine, above which the mis. recede, giving place to rich meadows and green fields. Opposite pretty Salzig, famous for cherries, are twin' rocky peaks, whereon rise the ruined castles of Ste?'n- berg and Liebenstein, to which attaches the legend of Conrad, Heinrich, and Hildegarde. Over Welmich (E.) rises the castle of Thurnherg, finished in 1363, and then derisively called The Mouse.

The handsome old town of St. Goar (founded ir 570) is overlooked by the grandest ruin on the river, the famous Rheinfels, dating from 1 245 ; besieged by 26 Rhenish towns in 1255; held by the French, 1758-63, 1794-97, and blown up by them; and now royal property. St, Goarshausen (steam-£erry to St. Goar) is under the castle called The Cat, built in 1393, and blown up by the French in 1804. Many charming excursions from either of these towns. The noble and well-preserved ruin of Reichenberg castle

OBERWESEL — BACHAKACH. 231

(1280) is 3 M. E. The picturesque Swiss Valley is oack of St. Goarsliauseu. Above is the Lurlei rock, a precipice 433 ft. high, rising over whirlpools iu the deepest and narrowest ])art of the Rhine, and the fabled seat of a siren who lured sailors to death. Farther up are the Seoen Virgins' rocks, with their ^-rini legend.

OberTvasel {Continental; Goldener Pfropfen- zieher), on the W. ; a picturesque Roman town, rich in wine and scenery ; beloved by artists, who haunt the gray old walls, the massive medigeval towers, the 15th- century Ch. of Our Lady, with rare old carvings and pictures, and the Chapel on the riverward wall, coni- niemorating a terrible deed in 1386. Above all, Schonburg, the lofty castle, the birthplace of Marshal Schomberg, who lies in Westminster Abbey. This nuuiy-towered cradle of a race of warriors was de- molished by Louis XIA^'s troops in 1CS9 Caub, abounding in Avine (see statue of Bliicher), is under the castle of Gutenfels, btult in 1277, and destroyed in 1807. Above is the Pfalz, a hexagonal fortress in the middle of the Rhine, bidlt by Lewis of Bavaria about the year 1200. Thence he used to swoop down upon passing vessels, and exact tribute. Hereabouts, Eliicher's and York's Prussian and Russian armies

crossed the Rhine, Jan. 1, 1S14.

Bacharach(i7(5^(?Z Rerbrec7if,BIuc'herfhal.Ba.stian)

on the W. bank; a favorite resort; its wines, celebrated in Longfellow's Golden Legend, still entitle it to the name Ara Bacchi (altar of Bacchus), which the Middle- Ages men gave it. The great fire of 1372 destroyed many rare old houses ; but the gray walls, descending from Stahleck, still envelop tlie town : and the beau- tiful Gothic ruin of St. Werner .s Cfi., and the st*»tely Romanesque St. Peter^s Church (now restored), still stand fast. Overhead i>> Stah.eck enstle, the home

'232 LORCH. — BINGEN.

of the Counts Palatine until 1265, besieged 8 ^iines by tlie Freucli betAveeu 1620 and 1640. and blovn uti iu 1689. Fiirsteuberg, another noble ruin, is near by. The robber-knights fired thence on the ship Id which Adolph of Nassau was descending to Aix-la- Chapelle, to be crowned Emperor (1292). Excursion up the narrow Stee^ valley ; also to Kreuznacli.

Lorcb {TMel WeiMer;' Krone), on E. bk. , the Koman Laureacum, has a Elamboyant 12tli-century ch., with quaint monuments and fine bell*. Near by, over the beoU's Ladder cliff, is Nollingen castle. Niederheim" bach (W. bank) is under Hohneck, or Heimburg castle. Above is Sooneck castle, built in 1015 by tlie Arch- bishop of Mayence ; and Falkenburg, or the Reichen- stein, destroyed as a robbers' nest by the Khenish towns (1251), and again by Rudolph of liapsburg, mIio hung its knights from the windows. Rheinstein, farther up (A¥. bank), is a picturesque castle, built be- fore 1279, and restored 1825-29 by Prince Frederick of Prussia, who is buried here (e^^trance, \ mk.).

Assmannshausau {Hotel Krone ; Rhein ; ReU' tershafi; JViederw<Ud; Lamm: Anker) on the E., exports aromatic red wine all over the w^orld. Above is the rapid of the Binger Loch, where the raftsmen have hard work. Ehrenfels (E. bank) is a high toAver, built in 1210 by the Governor of the lllieingau, dam- aged by the Swedes in 1635, and demolished by the French in 1689. Beyond are the terraced slopes which produce the Riidesheim wine. Opposite Ehrenfels, on quartz ledges hi the stream, is the Mouse Tower, where, as legend tells. Archbishop Hatto of Mayeuce . was devoured alive by mice because he caused a crowd of famine-stricken peasants to be burned to death, com- paring them to corn-destroying mice.

Bingen(Z?o)^6^ Victoria ;Bellevv e/Weisaes Ro.<is/^A?b' gleterre), under the heights at mouth of Nahe, amid

METZ. 233

cliarmiu*^ scenery, where the Rliiue bends around the Niede/'wcikl, on which is the new National Monument, with \m^Q bronze statues, etc. On tlie Drususberg are the ruins of /iTZo^p, once a Roman casth), destroyed by the French in lOrfi). The Rochusberg (341 ft. high) o^erloolcs the beautiful Rheingau ; the Nieder-wald gives another ravisiiing view. Illy, from Riidesheim to Wiesbaden, Erankfort, Ems, and Nassau ; and from Ringerbriick to Mayence, Coblence, Cologne, and Kreuznach [Oranianhof; Adler), a prettily situ- ated watering-place, where 6-8,000 persons go yearly I'or the salt-baths, efficient in cutaneous troubles,

From Bingerbriick one can go, by the Frankfort-Paris route, to Metz in 8-9 hrs. (fares, 17 mks. 90 pf., 13 mks., 8 mks. 60 pf.), passing Kreuznach ; Oherstein, a beautiful village on the Nahe, devoted to polishing agates ; NeunJcircken ; and Saarbracken, 3 M. N. of the battle-ground of Spicheren (1870 ; carriage to field, 12 mks. Metz {Grand Hotel; Post: Be Metz; De PaWs), a city of 62,000 inhab., on the Moselle, once the capital of the kingdom of Austrasia, was seized by France in 1552, and regained by Germany in 1870, after a pro- lo!iged siege, and several terrible battles near Gravelotte and Mars-la-Tour, on the W. (see local guides). Since theii the victors have q:reatiy extended the vast fortress. Visit interesting E. side of town. The Cathedral is a n:agnincent 13th century Gothic ch., with a tower 387ft. high. In front is a statue of Louis XIV.'s Marshal Fabert. Statues of Marshal Ney and Emp. William I on Esplanade, near Palace of Justice.

Riidesheim {Rhei7istem; Erliard; Dar?n.'^tadt ; Jung), op. Bingen, has rich wines, far-viewing heights, wild legends, and a Roman fortress. Farther up ^s Geisenheim, with monasteries and vineyards. On Hhe heights is Johannisberg, where, on the site of a

234 MAYENCB.

Benedictine convent of 1106, tlie Abbot of Fulda buill a castle, afterwards granted to Prince Metternicb, and now amid the best vineyards on the Rhine, and com- manding a superb view. Beautiful walks from Rii- desheim hence, or to Mtoille. The river scenery above Biugen is less interesting, and many travellers go hence to Mayence by rail (f hr.; by steamer, 2^ lirs.). Above Geisenheiiu, well in-shore on the r., is Inf/elheim, the site of Charlemagne's great palace. Eltville (on the l.J has fine villas and venerable ruins, aud is 4 M. from the fauious warm baths of Schlunyenbad. From Bie- brich, rly. to Wiesbaden. Above is Petersau, wdiere Louis the Pious, Charlemagne's son, died in 840.

Mayence {Hotel de Holla nde ; D'Angleterre ; Rheit^ iseher J Ffalzer; Taunus; Germania), 78,000 inhab., and a strategic position, commanding confluence of E-hine and Main (garrison, 8,000 men). It was the Roman Moguntiacum, fortified bv Drusus (b.c. 14), and headquarters of the 14th and 22d Legions. The Cita- del, on their camp-grouud, has a monument erected by his soldiers to Drusus, who died hei-e. Pope Zacharias (in 751) made St. Boniface, the Enghsh missionary. Archbishop of Mayence (the first German bishopric); and after 1250 " Golden Mayence " originated and headed the league of 100 Rhenish towns. In 146^ Archbishop Adolph killed the foremost citizens, and Mayence became a mere archiepiscopal town. The French republicans took it in 1792, and it was a French town for 17 years. In 1814 it became Hessian. The Cathedral, begun in 978, and 6 times burned and restored, is a vast structure, with domes and round towers (one 324 ft. high) and splendid brass gates (made in 1135). The interior is very grand, ricli^ frescoed (by Veit), with choirs on E. (1175) and W. (1239), and 56 columns upholding the vaulting (open

MAYENCE. 235

till 11.30, and 3-6). There are scores of fine old monu- ments, including one to Fastrada, Charlemagne's wife. The restored Cloisters, built in 1412, are the finest in W. Germany, and contain Schwanthaler's monument- to the ])ious minstrel Heinrich von Meissen (died 1318), erected by the women of Majence in 1842. Thor- waldsen's statue of Gutenberg, the inventor of printing, stands near the Cathedral ; and the house in which he was born is not far off. St. Stephens Ch. (1257-1318) and cloisters are on high ground, and the tower overlooks Mayeuce. The Electoral Palace, built 1627-78, and used by the Trench for storing hay, is in the N. E. quarter, and contains a rich museum (fee, 50 pf. Tues, and Sat., other days free) of Homan- Germanic relics, a library of 100,000 vols., and a Picture-Gallery of 9 rooms, with many fine old paintings (Titian, Murillo, Holbein, etc.). The Grand-Ducal Palace, opposite, was a Lodge of the Teutonic Order, and has an arsenal attached. There are charming walks along the river in the Esplanade, and in the NeAie Anlage Park (restaurant) . An iron bridge crosses the Rhine from the Esplanade opposite the arsenal to Castel, a small but strongly fortified suburb. Here stood once a Eoman bridge.

A Run through North Germany.

Wit/i Frankfort and Wiesbaden.

The traveller should now determine whether to hasten on t© Switzerland, or (which is much better) spend afcAv days in Germany, going from Mayence to Frankfort, Weimar, and Berlin ; and thence down to Dresden, Prague, and Vienna ; returning to the Rhineland by Nuremberg, Munich, and Heidelberg. Tourists going direct to Switzerland may pass S. from Mayence, by Worms and Strasburg, to Basle, in 10- 14 hrs., or by Darmstadt, Heidelberg, Carlsruhe, Baden, and the Black Forest.

236 FRANKFORT-ON-THE-MAIN

From Mayence it is f hr. by rly. (lares, 2 mks. 95 pf., 1 mk. 95 ])(., 1 mk. 30 pf.) to the Prussian city ol Frank" fort-on-the-Main {Ft^arikfurfer Hof ; De Ru.^sie,' Union; Jacobi; (TAngleterre; Schwan; PariserJloJ), which has 252,000 mhab., and stands on a mountain- girdled plain. Charlemagne held a council here in 794 and later sovereigns granted higli privileges. From 1356 to 1806 this was the place of election for the German emperors (beginning with Barbarossa), many of whom were crowned here. It was a free city from 1814 to 1866, when Prussia annexed it. Frankfort is a handsome and agreeable place, with good society and vast wealth. The ancient Homer, or Town Hall, con- tains the Emperors' Hall, and the room in which the electors met to choose the emperors. In front, the coronation festivals were given. Up to 1800 no Jews were allowed on this square. See Cathedral (1238). Historical Iluseum in Archives building and restored Leinv^andhaus (50pf., Snn. & Wed. free). The bridge over Main (leading to Sachseiihausen), built 1842, has a statue of Charlemagne. The Saallwf has a chapel of the Carlovingian kings. The Exchange is a very hand- some modern building. The 13th-century chs. of St. Leonhard and St. Nicholas are interesting. The house in which Goethe was born, and wliere he wrote Werther^ is public property. His statue (with bas-reliefs) by Schwantlialer is near the Rossmorkt square; and there is another in the Town Library (150,000 vols.). Th& Stddel Institute has a school of fine arts, collections of engravings, drawings, and casts, and several hundred paintings of merit (open daily, 11-2; catalogue, 1 mk.). B&thmann' s Museum contains Dannecker's Ariadne^ etc. (open daily, 50-75 pf .), The Zeil is the most bril- liant streetin Frankfort. See Palm Garden, sculpture in ry. station, Opera-House, Natural History Museum,

HOMBURG. — WIESBADEN. 237

and Zoological Garden. The Judengasse quarter, where the persecuted Jews lived, 1462-1806, and where the Rothschilds originated, is being modernized. Chains and gates formerly closed the streets at even- ing and on Sundays, and no Jew vi^as allowed outside. From Frankfort it is f hr. by rly. (fares, 1 mk. 60 pf. , 1 mk. 20 pf.) to Homburg ( Villa Furstenruhe) , Victoria; Bellevue; Du Pare; Adler; De Russie), a celebrated watering-place on the Taunus Mts. Iron and saline springs in the superb gardens of the Kurhaus (library, reading-room, and fine saloons). Gambling was abolished here in 1870 See the castle of the Landgraves. If M. N. on the mts. is a massive Roman fort, built by Germanicus, and a remnant of the wall, 150 M. long, which protected the Rhincland.

From Frankfort it is 1 hr. by rly. (fares, 3 inks. 40 pf., Si-mks., Imk. -ISpf.) to Wiesbaden (iVassaw; Palace; Kaiserhof; Quatre Sai ons; Metropole; du Pare), in the lovely valley of the Salzbach, on the viiie and j^ i o v d* clad S. W. spurs of the Taunus Mts. 120,000 visitors annually partake of the warm saline waters, beneficial for rheumatism and gout. Pliny mentions i\\e.^G fontes calidi ; and the camps of the 14th and 23d Legion^ were near by. The air is very healthy, and the town pretty. Back of the handsome Kursaal is an extensive ]:»ark, the favorite resort of visitors. See the 2 palaces, the museum, and picture-gallery, the library, the Gov- ernment buildings, and the 5-towered Gothic ch., with its colossal statues The Heidenmauer, K. W of the town, is a Roman wall, 650 ft. long. Beautiful walks to Nerothal, Platte^ and other environs.

Frankfort to Hanover, Havihirg, and Bremen.

From Frankfort a rly. runs N. W. across Hesse (5-8 brs. ; fares, 16 mks., i2mks., 8 mks.), by high -walled Fnedberg ; the mineral springs of Nauhehn ; the rly.

238 CASSEL. — HANOVER. — BEUNSWICK.

junction of Giessen- ; and historic Marburg, with its splendid clis. and castle ; to Cassel {Nord ; Royal), the beautiful old Hessian capital (70,000 iiiliab.), Mith its electoral palaces and vast Museum Friedericianum (200,000 vols- ; myriads of gems, mosaics, Aveapoiis, ivories, etc.). In the Bellevue castle is a gfillpry ol. several hundred fine old paintings. "Willielmsliohe, 4 M. distant, is a sumptuous palace, in a park laiiious for its fountains and cascades. liere Napoleon Hi. was imprisoned in 1870-71.

From Cassel it is 4-5 hrs. (13 mks. 40 pf., 10 mks. 10 pf.6 mks. 70 pf), by Gottingen, famous for its univer- sity, to Hanover ( Victoria; Royal, Bristol), hand so i^ ! city of 250,000 inhab., once capital of Hanover, and since 1866 a Prussian provincial capital. See the palaces of the Hanoverian kings; the Royal Library, of 170.000 vols, ; the handsome Theatre ; the Museums ; and nu- merous statues and monuments. N. W is Ihe imposing Palace of the G-uelphs ; also, Uerreiihausen, the subur- ban palace and park of the dethroned dynasty. Hano- ver is 10 hrs. from Rotterdam, on the route to Berlin; and 7-10 hrs. from Berlin, via Brunswick (fares, 3 mks. 80 pf., 2| mks.) and Magdeburg. Brunswick {Schra- der''s Hotel ; I)eidsc.hes),\\\Q residence of the Duke of Brunswick, 125,000 inliab., has a medieval air, with its ancient Gotiiic Tovtm Hall; St. Martin's Ch., rich in carvings; the Cathedral, built by the Crusader Plenry the Lion in 1172 ; the brnnze Lion monument (1166) ; etc. The spleiidid neA\ Ducal Palace is near \X\q Ducal Museum,, in wliich are 900 pictures, and countless other relics and curios. See also the War Monument and the Theatre, The fortifications have been replaced by promenades and gardens. Magdeburg {Central H'>tel) on the Elbe, has 220,000 inhab. , and a very cele- brated Cathedral (1208). Great cannon-foundry near.

HA:/IBUEG. - EIIEMEN. 239

From ITariDvcM- it is 112 M. (4-5 hrs ; fares 16 mks. SO pf., 12 , liiAS.. 8inks.) by Lilneburg, with its ancient houses .*' )(l '^'^-^ ^o Hambnrs; {Hmnburger Ilof ; Esplanade; Atlantic; Kro7ipnnz; V%er Jahreszeiten; Europa)., (580,000 mhab.; ranking next after London among the important seaports of Europe. It is on the lower Elbe, and is the chief ut' ihe three Hanseatie towns. Charlemagne fomidei? a castle here (805), and Louis the Pious an arclibisliopric ; but the city is now aU .iiiodera. There are vast- and crowded quays,, shipyards, i-lvs., docks, a busy Excliauge, a Town Li- brary (250,000 vols.), ihms-mus, in )iiu!ueiits, and a good Art Galltry. r,ic Biiinsii-Alster is a chariniug water- park, 1 A[. aroiiud, siii-i-.)U!iaed by qua_ys and prome- nades, hues of trees, and blocks of handsome liouses and hotels, and eulivou-d by many pleasure-boats and groups of swans.

Erom H imbui-g, trains run S.W., 76 M.(2ihrs.; fares, 10^ mks., 7| inks., 4f mks ), across a poor, flat country, to Bremen( Centra?; Hillman^s; Siedenhurg; De V Eu- rope; Du Nord), a grea^t Hanseatie commercial town^ on the Weser River, with 142,000 inh. See the richly decorated Rathhaus (1410) ; the frescoed RathskeUery famous for wines ; the 11th-century Romanesque Cathe- dral ; the Kumthalle, with pictures ; the splendid new Gothic Exchange ; and colossal Roland statue (1412).

"Frankfort to Weimar, Leipsic, and Berlin.

Time required, 12-14 hrs. ; fares, 43 mks. 40 pf., 33 mks. 60 pf., 23 mks. 40 pf This route passes through Pulda, an ancient ecclesiastical capital ; and in 5-6 hrs. reaches Eisenach {Gros^herzog von Sachsen), the quiet town where Luther went to school Near by is the Wartburg, a lofty Romanesque castle, founded in 1070,

240 GOTHA. - WEIMAR. — LEIPSIC.

and lately restored and richly frescoed. Here Luther was hidden (1521-23), and many relics of his sojourn are shown. 4 hrs. S., beyond the Ducal capital of Mei7iingen, is Coburg {Victoria)^ a handsome Francotiian city, with a remarkable castle.

On the Berlin route is Gotha {Deutscher Hof), a pleasant ducal city, with 26,000 inliab. In arid near the great Friedenstein Palace are remarkable collec- tions of antiquities, coins, objects of art, sculptures, engravings, a library of 200,000 vols., and a famous picture-gallery. The ThujHugian Forest lies around the JSisenach-GotJui rly. Erfurt (Romischer Kaiser) is an ancient Prussian fortress, with 53,000 mhab., a high-placed Gothic Catliedral, and the Augustinian Monadery in which Luther became a monk in 1505. Farther on toward Berlin is

Weimar (Erbprinz ; Russisclier Hof), capital of the grand-duchy of Saxe- Weimar, an ancient town of 20,000 inhab. Goethe lived here 56 years, until his death in 1832; and his ct)llections are shown. Schil- ler's house IS o[)en daily. Herder and Wieland also lived at Weimar. Statues of all these are in the town; and frescos from their works adorn the hand- some Grand Ducal Falace. Their busts and many curiosities ai-e in the Grand-Dacal Library (170,000 vols.; open daily). The lluseum (open April-Sept., 10-4) has many curios and paintings. The Stadt- kirche (1400) has a Crucifixion by Cranach, and the tomb of Herder. Schiller and Goethe are buried m the cemetery, S. of the town. Farther towards Berlin is

Leipsic {Kaiserhof, Hauffe de Russie, Sedan, de Prusse), a city of 400,000 inhab., the centre of the German book -trade, the seat of high imperial tribunals, and the place where 3. great fairs are held yearly, drawing many traders even from Asia and

LEIPSIC. — BERLIN. 241

the Levant. 30,000 strangers come to these fairs ; and the annual sales (largely of furs, leather, and clotlis) ex^ ceed ^50,000,000. These picturesque exchanges have been carried on for over 700 years. There are 300 booksellers and 80 y)rinting-offices here. The Museum has Thorwaldsen's Ganymede, and an immense collec- tion of paintings and engravings, mostly modern (open Sun., Wed. ,Fri., free; Mon. 1 mk.; Tues..Thurs..Sat., fmk.). Tlie Augusteum is the seat of the University, which was founded in 1^02, and has o,300 students and a library of 350,000 vols, and 4,000 MSS. See tlie New Theatre, with beautiful Corinthian faQade ; the Pleis- senbarg citadel ; the oldj houses in the Grimma'sche Strasse ; Auerhach's Keller, where part of the scene of Goethe's Faust is laid ; the house in the Bruhl where Richard Wagner was born ; the Mhnorjraphical Museuniy etc. In 4 Oct. days of 1813, 300,000 Prussians, Aus- trians, and Russians, headed by their sovereigns, de- feated Napoleon and 140,000 Frenchmen here, and drove them out of Leipsic. In the Market Place is the War 3Innument by Siemering.

On the Leipsic- Magdebufg-Hauibn.rg rlv- is Halle {Bode; Ilamhurg; Kronprinz), wltli 91,000 inhab., and a famous university (1.000 students). In the market- place is the ancient Ratlihaus, the many-towered Ch. of Our Lady (1530). a clock-tower 276 ft. high, and a statue of Handel Cborn at Halle, 1685).

Berlin

{Adloiir, Alexandra, Carlton, Kaisei-hof, Bristol^ Royal, Savoy, Palast, Central, Continental, Rome, Monopol, Westminster, Esplanade), capital of Ger- many) 1,600,000 inhabitants), is 3 to 4 hours from Leipsic, on a sandy plain, by the river Spree. Origi-

243 BERLIN.

nally a Wenclish fishing- village, and afterwards a Han- seatic town, it was notably improved by the Gre.it Elector (1640-88), and by Frederick the Great and his predecessor (1713-86). Since tiie accession of William I. in 1861 the population has increased lourfold, and the arts and trades have flourished remarkably.

The best part of the city may be seen by walking down the Uiiter den Ijliulen, a broad avenue, 1 M. long, with double rows of lime-trees, from the Brandenlxjrg Gate to the Royal Palace. The Gate is an imitation of the Propyleea at Athens, crowned by a fine statue of Victory with horses. This was taken to Paris in 1807 as a trophy. Outside is the TMergarten; inside, the Pariser-Platz, with the BlUcher Palace and Officers' Club on the S., and the French Emhassy on the N. There are several other embassies and palaces on the Linden, with various govern- ment buildings. The Florentine palace of Count Redern is the first building on the S., and beyond are the resi« deuces of the Minister of Religion and Education and of the Russian Ambassador. Opposite is the Ministry of the Interior. See the Aquarium and the arcade, Kaiser-Gal- lerie. \ the E. end is the bronze statue of Frederick the Oreat, by Ranch, called the finest of its kind in Europe. The king is on horseback, in his coronation-robes; and the lofty pedestal is surrounded with life-size statues of his generals, princes, etc. To the S. is the Palace of Wil- liam I., behind which is the Royal Lilbrarij (open 1-2), with 1,000,000 volumes and 30,000 MSS. N. is the Academy Building containing the Academies of Art and of Science; also tlie University (7,000 students), once Prince Henry's palace, and partly enclosing gardens in which are statues of the Humboldts. Fine anatomical, mineral, and zoologi- cal collections here; and a library of 100,000 vols. The Opern Platz contains statues of 5 generals, by Ranch, and is bounded by the Palace, University, Opera House, and

BERLIN. ^43

St. Hedwig''s Cfi., an imitation of the Roman Pantheon. Farther E., on the Linden, at the r. is the Empiess Fred- erick Palace; and at the 1, is the Royal Guard-House (military music in summer, 11-13), a copy of a Roman fortified gate. Back of this is the Sin (jin{j- Academy ; and on one side is the handsome Arsenal, with many rare trophies of war. Close by is tlie Schloss Bridge, adorned with 8 groups of statuary, and leading to tlie Lustgarten, a pai-k in which stands an equestrian statue of Frederick William III. On one side is the lioyal Palace, a vast double quadrangle, built since 1540, and containing 600 rooms (open daily, 10-1). See Swiss Hall, King's Hall, Red-Eagle Hall, Throne Room, now Ritter Saal, Velvet Room, Black Eagle Hall, Picture Gallery (fine modern battle-paintings), "White Saloon (statues of the 13 Elec- tors), and Chapel, rich in alabaster and gems, and splendidly frescoed. Magnificent new Cathedral must not be missed. Opposite the palace is the Old. Museum, the finest building in the city, with a grand Ionic portico, adorned with colossal bronze groups, and richly frescoed halls (open daily, 10-3). See the collections of antiquities; the sculptures ; the Hall of the Heroes, and the Picture Gallery, unexcelled in its facilities for the study of art history. The New Museum contains Kaulbach's famous m.ural paintings, the Egyptian museum, an immense collection of casts, 13 cabinets of Northern antiquities, 4 rooms of objects of art, and 500,000 engravings. It has a Renaissance facade to the E. ; and opposite is the new Corinthian temple of the National Gallery (open daily, 11-3), which contains a magnificent and world-renowned collection of modern paintings.

The Friedriclis-8ta<lt is the business centre of Berlin, and the streets in this section are interesting. The

24:4: BERLIN.

Theatre is a classic structure, on the Schiller-Platz, witl? several line bronze groups; in front, a noble statue ol Schiller. The Wilhelmsirasse contains notable palaces; and in the Wilhelms-Platz are statues of 6 of Frederick the Great's generals. At the west end of the busy Leip- ziger-Strasse are tlie halls of the Prussian Diet, the offices of the ministers of War and Navy, and of tlie Postmaster- General; adjoining latter is the interesting Post -Office Museum. Just beyond Leipziger-Platz is the Potsdamer- Platz, and near this on Koniggratzer-Strasse corner Prinz-Albrecht-Strasse is Ethnographical Museum (10-3), next to wliich is the Art Industrial Museum (10-3). Belle Alliance Platz contains lofty granite column of Peace (1840), surrounded by splendid marble groups.

At the Eo end of Leipziger-Strasse is the Spittel-Markt. Near this (5 Wall-Strasse) is Ravene''s Gallery of modern French and German pictures (Tues. & Fri., 10-3). S. of tlie Schloss-Brlicke is the Academy of Architecture. The Schinkel-Platz h-AS statues of Schinkel, Beuth, and Thaer. The Kurfiirsten Bridge leads from tlie square S. of the Royal Palace into old Berlin, where are tlie Imperial Post-Office and the Mth-century Ch. of St. Mary. The Rathhaus (open 10-3) is an immense Romanesque building of brick (1860-70), with a, tower :i86 ft. high, and several handsome Jialls. Underneath is the RaUiskeUer, a great refresliment-room. Opposite the Museum is the StocTc Exchange, a sumptuous Renaissance building, with the greatest hall in Berlin, riclily frescoed. Beyond the Hercules Bridge (on wlaich are statues by Schadow) is Monbijou, a beautiful royal palace, in wliich is the Hohen- zollern Museum (daily, 10-3) . Near by is the great Syna- gogue, Moorish in style.

The splendid KOnigs-Platz adjoins the Thiergarten, and coniains the Monument of Victory, 190 ft. high, com.-

POTSDAM. 245

memorating^ tlie battles of 1870-71. Here is the Italian Renaissance Hall of the Imperial Diet, which cost 23,000,- OCO mks. Avenue of Victory, Berlin's favorite promenade, leads through the Thiergarten, a park 2 M. long and J M. wide, v(^ith many ponds and groves of large trees. At the end is a large Zoological Garden. S. of this is the Emperor William 3Iemorial Church, erected in 1895. To S.E. is the Botanical Garden with plants of 30,000 species. Horse-cars run through the Thiergarten to Charlottenburg-, a large town with a Palace (1699) in a handsome garden, and a Mausoleum, with sculptures by illustrious masters. In Berlin's Old Trinity Cemetery, Mendelssohn is buried ; and in Trinity Cemetery, Schleiermacher and Neander. Cor- nelius rests in Hedwig''s Cemetery; Ranch, Schadow, Schinkel, Hegel, and Fichte, in the Old Dorotheenstadt Cemetery; and the Humboldts, at Tegel.

Potsdam {EinsiedUr, Eisenbahn, with good restaurant) is 16 M. from Berlin (K hr.; 75 pf.), among wooded hills and the lakelike expanses of the Havel. Here is the Sans- souci Palace, built by Frederick the Great, and full of reminiscences of him. Near by are the Picture-Gallery, the Orangery (adorned with fine statuary), and the Sicilian Garden, The New Palace (1769) has 200 richly adorned rooms, with fine paintings, and a noteworthy Marble Saloon. The Marble Palace is N. of Potsdam, and has many paintings. BabeUberg is a new Gothic palace, with rich art-treasures. The Town Palace (1660) is full of relics of the Great Frederick. The Garrison Church con- tains his tomb and military trophies. The Church of Peace is a noble Ionic basilica, Avith masterpieces of sculpture. The famous Sanssouci fountains play on summer Sunday afternoons. There are several chateaux of princes near Potsdam. (60,000 inhab.).

DrvESDEN.

Dresden and Prague.

Express- trains, Berlin to Dresden, 3 brs. (108 M.; 16 mks. 30 pf., 13 mks. 30 pf., 8 mks. 50 pf.).

Dresden {Grand Union, Savoy, Europaischer Hof, Conti- nental, Bellevue, Berliyi, Rom, Kronprinz, Vier Jahres- zeiten), "the German Florence," lias 400,000 inhab., and has been the capital of Saxony since 1485. Many British and American families dwell here, induced by the abundant facilities for culture and amusement, and also by the cheapness of living. The Elbe is crossed by 3 stone bridges, axid bordered by the popular promenade, the Brii^I Terrace, adorned with statuary and trees. Here front the Synagogue, the Art Academy, the Exhibition Buildings, and the Court Ch. (famous music. Sun. and festivals, 11) Statues of Richter and Semper and the Maurice monument here. Opposite Court Church is the Hof -Theater, and near it Guard House. In square is equestrian statue of King John. The Royal Palace (1534) is an irregular double quadrangle, with a tower 361 ft. high, and a richlv frescoed Throne Room. The Green- Vault (9-3 daily ; catalogue, 1 mk.) contains the largest existing collection of objects of art, bronzes, ivory carv- ings, mosaics, enamels, gems, crystal, and magnificent plate ; also the regalia of Poland • and Saxony, superb state swords, and precious stones of enorm.ous value ; and works of DtJrer, Angelo, and Cellini. The Museum (part of the Zwinger) is a Renaissance building decorated with statues and sculptures, and containing the finest picture- gallery N. of Italy (open daily; Sun., Tues., Thurs., Fri. free). Here are 3,400 paintings, including the Sistine Madonna, Correggio's La Notte, and Titian's Tribute Money; and choice works of

SAXON SWITZERLAND. 247

Murillo, Diirer, Teniers, Yeronese, etc. ; also, 350,000 engravings, a great museum of casts, collections in natural history and mineralogy, and the most interest- ing Historical Museum in Germany (ancient weapons, armor, furniture, and trophies of war). See the Eng- lish ch. ; the stone-domed Ch. of Our Lady; the Cross Ch., with tower 346 ft. high, and fountains and statues in the streets. Mouument to the War of 1870-71, in the Old Market.

The Japanese Palace, across the Elbe, contains the Royal Library, with 400,000 vols., 6,000 MSS., and many rare old books and maps (open to visitors 12-1 summer, 1-2 winter, | mk.) ; tlie Collection of Forcelahi (15,000 pieces of Dresden, Sevres, and Ori- ental wares ; open daily) ; and collections of coins and antiquities. In the rear is the pretty Japanese Garden, neai- which Koruer was born and Schiller dwelt. The Grosse Garten is a royal park of 300 acres, wherein the French and Prussians fought in 1813. Here are Zoological and Botanical Gardens; also a Museum of Antiquities^ and Riefsrhel Museum of sculptures (both open daily). Schlegel and Weber are buried in the Catholic Cemetery. The monument where Gen. Moreau was mortally wounded is 1^ M. S. ; and the Morltzburg , a royal hunting-lodge, is 6 M. N. Fillnitz (7 M.) is a handsome royal chateau. Many charming suburban excursions.

The Saxon Switzerland is a beautiful mt. region, 4-500 square M. in area, filled with grotesque sand- stone peaks and gorges, and traversed by the Elbe. A 2-days' tour leads from Dresden to Potzsclia (f hr. by rly.) ; thence (1^ hr.) to the Bastei, a hotel-crowned peak, overlooking the whole region and the Elbe valley . thence (5 hrs.) io Schandau, a summer resort (hotels) in the heart of the mt'^' and thence (1 day) by the

HS PRAGUE

Lichtenhahi Fall and tlie Kiilistall and Prebisc/Uhor peaks, to K'dnlgdeiii, a lofty and imposing Saxon for- tress. It is 5-7 iirs. (fares,18 mks. 70 pf., 14 mks. 10 pf., 9 mks. 40 pf.) up the Elbe valley and through the Saxon Switzerland, by Pima and Konigdeiii, with their fortresses, and Bodenhach (2| hrs. from i\\c Schneeberg, and opposite the handsome castle of Tesche)i), from Dresden to

Pragrue {De Saxe; 3Io7iopol: Royal; Schwartzes Ross; Blauer Stern; Yidoria; Goldener Engel). the capital of Bohemia (250,000 inh.), situated on hills near the Moldau lliver,- f of tlie people are Bohemians, and the Germans are very unpopri^ar. The city was founded by the Duchess Libussa. Here Huss and Jerome preached the Reformation, which took firm root in Bohemia until the Protestant army was crushed, just outside of Prague, in 1620, by the Bavarian forces of the Roman-Catholic League. The palace of the Bohemian kings is now an Austrian barrack ; and tlie old Hussite ch., the Teynkirche, containing Tycho Brahe's tomb, is now^ Roman. In front of the Rath- haus 27 Protestant Boiiemian nobles vrere executed, in 1620 ; and 11 of Wallensteiu's officers, in 1633. See the Palace of Count Clam Gallas ; the Gothic Puher- tlmrm tower ; the great Jesuit College ; the ancient University, founded in 1348 ; the Bohemian. National Museum; the Rossmarkt, a grand street adorned Mntli statues ; the Neustadt Rathhaus, where the Hussite wars began ; the Jews' Quarter, with 9 synagogues and a very ancient cemetery ; and the Wysschrad citadel. The Charles Bridge (1357-1507), with 16 arches, towers of defence (on one of which the beads of the Protestant nobles were exposed for 10 years), and 30 statues of saints, crosses the Moldau to the splendid Radetzkv Monument (made from Italian cannon) and

CARLSBAD. — TEPLITZ. 249

the JeHinf Ch. On tlie rocky lieights above is the mar- vellous Hradschin, where stands the Cathedral (1844; -83), containing' the marble and alabaster mausoleum (1589) ot" the Bohemian kings; the tombs of St. Adal- bert, St. Vitus, St. Wenzcl, and several Sclavonic kings, and many rare mosaics and pauitings. The great Imperial Palace (o|)en daily, 11-1, 111.) cou- tains portraits, ancient halls, and the Council Cliamber from which the imperial councillors were thrown, causing tlie Thirty Years' War. In the Sternberg Palace is a collection of 350-400 paintings (open, daily). The vast Czerjiin Palace is now a barrack. Near it is a Capuchin monastery, with a chapel copied after the Casa Santa at Tvoretto. Higher up is the wealthy and imposing Abbey of Strahow, with the tombs of St. Norbert and Gen. Pappenlieitn, a painting by Diirer, a fine library, and splendid views over Prague, t^'ie Moldau plahi, and the Giant Mts. Below the Belcedcre, an imperial villa (1530) with Bohemian historical frescos, are "Wallenstein's Palace (1636) and the Noslitz Palace, containing 400 paintings.

Carlsbad (/Saroy; Bristol; Papp; Anger's; Konigs- villa; NationaL; Hannocti ; Kroh), 6-7 hrs. W. of Piague, is visited by over 20,000 yearly, who find the suipiiur and saline waters beneticiai, and pretly scenery of Te[)l glens and pine woods very charming.

Tepiitz {Zam alien Ralhaus; Planer Stem), 3-4 hrs. from Dresden, 4-5 hrs. from Prague, another fam- ous watering-place, with warm alkaline springs, used for bathing. Scenery is mountainous, picturesque; and ruined castles, hill-top inns, and rich abbeys abound From Prague to Munich is a ride of 11-12 hrs. (38 mks. 90 pf.,' 30 mks. 60 pf., 21^ mks). From Prague you can go to Vienna by night-train (217 M. ; 8-10 hrs. i fares, 18 mks. 70 pf., 13 mks. 70 pf.), via

250 VIENNA.

Tabor and Gmtind. Berlin to Breslau and Vienna, 18-20 hrs. Dresden to Znaim and Vienna, 14 hrs.

Vienna.

Yiotols.— Imperial ; Archduhe Charles; Bristol ; Metropole ; De France ; Residenz ; Meissl ; Krantz; Grand; Sacher; (in the suburbs), Co?iti7iental, Leo- pohlstadt; Kammer, Mariahilf; Holler, Neubau.

Restaurants. — Vienna is expensive town, and a few hints may be useful. There is no obligation to take more than first breakfast in hotels where you lodge. Sacher s, near thn Opera; Hopfer ; Hartmann; Leh- iier; Bellaria; Dreher^s, close to Opera, and some of the cafe-restaurants on the Ring, are good. The Viennese sup from 9 to 11 ; and the traveller should not fail to take supper in one of the concert-halls, fre- quented by good society. Table-d'hote is not general. Good dinners can be had at the restaurants, at fixed prices. Austrian wines most in use are Voslauer (red) and Gmripoklskirchener (white). The Hungarian wines are Erlauer, Carlowitzer, and Ofener (red) ; and Tokayer aad Ruster (white).

Carriages (2-horse), 1 fl. for drive within the city limits; 1^11. an hr. ; 1 -horse, Ifl. 20kr. an hr. Drivers expect liberal gratuity. Horse-cars, with smoking- compartments, run around the Ritig, the Franz- Joseph-Qiiai, and across the Aspern Bridge to the Prater (fare, 12kr.). The railway termini are all joined by a circular connecting line.

The capital of Austria and Hungary, with upwards of 1,400,000 inh., stands on a mountain- walled plain near the Danube River, and is one of the handsomest, m-ost enterprising, and most interesting of European cities. Vienna was first a Celtic village; then a Roman fort, where Marcus Aurelius died (18'^); left a deso- lation by the Huns; made a fief of the empire by Charlemagne; occupied by the Duke of Austria in

VIENNA. 251

1156 ; enriched by the Crusades; fortified in 1251; oc- cupied by tlie Hapsburgs in 1276 ; besieged by the Turks in 1529 and 1683 ; occupied by the French in 1805 and 1809 ; and in the power of Prussia in 1866.

The Church of St. Stephen, at the centre of Vienna, built of limestone, 1300-1510, and restored in 1860. The nave is 354 ft. long and 89 feet high ; and its rich groined roof rests on huge pillars, adorned with 100 statuettes. See the old imperial burial-vault, the tomb of Prince Eugene ot Savoy, the stone pulpit (1512), the sarcophagus in the Thekla Choir, the carved choir-slalls, and the stained windows. Great catacombs beneath. On the outside, see Giant's, Eagle's, and Bishop's Dours, tomb ot" the Meislersanger, pulpit of Capistranus, and Heathen towers. The tower is 453 ft. high (20 kr.), and the guides point out thence the battle-fields of Wagrara and Essling. At the corner of the Graben, the chief business and shop- ping street, is the Stock am Eisen, a pine-tree stump full of nails, driven on account of an ancient custom. In the Graben is the grotesque Trinity Column (i693)'. The Kohlmarkt is a street of shops, leading to the Im- perial Palace. The Ring is the magnificent boule- vard, 165 ft. wide and 2 M. long, which (with the Quay on the Danube Canal) surrounds the inner town, and occupies the place of the old ramparts and glacis. Beginning at the Aspern Bridge, it passes between the great barracks and the Custom House. The next section, the Stuheti-Ring, passes the handsome new Austrian Museum (open daily), with 9 rooms, crowded witli choice works in gold, brass, iron, ivory, bronze, tapestry, leather, etc., and paintings and staL. uary. This German S' Kensington is joined by a corridor to the Technical 6'chool, near which is a statue of Pallas Athene. The Fark-Rinq runs between the

252 VIENNA.

pretty Stadt Park, where the Strausses may often b^ heard, and the Horticidtural Palace, behmd which are the splendid modern palaces of the Duke of Coburg and the Archduke William. The Kolowrat-Ring passes the Casino (the club of the nobility) and the Gothic Academie Gymnasium. From the Schwartzenberg-Platz, with its monument and ducal palaces, the Kdrnthner- Ring passes the Imperial and Grand Hotels, the beauti- ful building of the Musical Union, and the Renaissance Artists'" House (exhibitions of paintings). The busy OperwRing leads by the magnificent Opera House, the best in Germany, with sumptuous frescos and decorations ; and the Palace of the Archduke Albert, in which is the Albertina (open Mon. and Thurs., 9-2), a collection of 40,000 books, 200,000 engravings, and Imndi-eds of drawings by Raphael, Rubens, Diirer, etc. The Burg-Ring is between the huge new buildings of the Imperial Museums and the Imperial Palace. The Franzens-Ring passes the Yolksgarten, a popular park, with a temple containing Cancva's Theseus. Near it is the superb Votive Ch., commemorating the Em- peror's escape from assassination in 1853, and adorned with twin spires, abounding in statues, and 345 ft. high, and wonderful stained windows. Near by are vast hospitals, unrivalled in Europe ; and the great new buildings of the University, the Gothic Rathhaus, the Coui-ts of Justice, the Hofburg Theatre, the Mili- tary Offices, and the classic Parliament House. The Schotten- Ring contains the 'Exchange, a new Renais- sance structure (cost $3,500,000), the vast Police Office, and the Stiftungshmis erected on the site of the Ring Theatre, which was burned with great loss of life in 1881, and leads to the Danube Canal.

The Hofburg, or Imperial Palace, the home of Austria's sovereigns for 6 centuries, is a vast and irreg-

VIENNA 253

ular group of buildings, with a labyrinth of courts,

fates, and corridors. See the magnificent Knights^ Tall, ?n til? Residenz; the apartments of Maria Theresa; ^he liidmg 'School ; the Guard-House (military music daily, at Y}\ the AiiguHtinian Ch., with its monuments; the Hofgarten; and. \\\q statues of Francis I., Joseph II., the Aichduke Charles, Prince Eugene, etc. The Imperial Library (open daily, 9-4) contains 600,000 ?ols., 20,000 MSS., and 300,000 engravings. The Natural-Ristorji and Mineral Cabinets are very inter- esting. The Treasury (open almost every day) is the most interesting in Europe, and contains the entire i'egalia ot Austria, coronation -robes, jewel-studded dec- orations, jewelry, caskets of gold, silver, and crystal. Napoleon I.'s regalia as King of Italy, the sabre of Haroun-al-Raschid, the crown and sword of Charle- magne, the lance which pierced the Saviour's side, etc. Among the jewels is the Elorentine diamond, valued at :$300,000.

The homely Capuchin Gh. contains the Imperial Vault (open daily; gratuity for the poor), where you may see the coffins in which lie Maria Theresa, Marie I/ouise, Maximilian of Mexico, and other sovereigns. Near by is the Imperial Printi7ig-0fj[ice (open Tues. and Eri., 9-12). The JJniversity (4,000 students) is in the Franzens-Eing.

The suburban Liechtenstein Palace (open daily, 9-6) has a gallery of 1,600 paintings, with many remarkable works of Uubens and Van Dyck. The Schonborn Palace (Mon., Wed., and Eri'., 9-3) has a famous collection of pictures ; and the Harrach Pah Mce (Wed. and Sat., 10-4) contains 400 interesting paintings. There are many very interesting ancient and modern clis. in Vienna, many palaces, and civio and national institutions, monuments, squares and bridges, which should be seen.

254 VIENNA.

The Belvedere, an Imperial resicleiice,bmlt in 1693* 1724, and once inhabited by Prince Eugene of Savoy, has a beautiful French garden. Its gallery formerly contained about 1,500 paintings, including a remark- able collection of early Italian and Venetian works, and Diirer's world-renowned " Trinity," all of which were removed to the Imperial Art Museum in 1891. The other of the two buildings forming the Belve- dere, known as the Lower Belvedere, contained ths famous Ambras collection, removed in 1889 to the Art-History Museum. Near by is the vast Arsenal, with the richly frescoed Hall of Fame, and thousands of military relics and trophies of the Turkish, French, Swedish, and Italian wars. Here also are great bar- racks, gun-factory, and cannon-foundry.

The Prater is an immense forest-park on the B (laid out in 1766), with cafes, band-music, theatres, and avenues. On May and June afternoons the fashion- able world of Austria may be seen driving in the HaupU Allee. W'urstel Prater is the part frequented by the humbler classes. In the cemetery of Wahring, 1-| M. N. W. of the city, Beethoven, Schubert, and Grilipar- zer are buried; Mozart lies at 8t. Marx, and Gluck at Matzleinsdorf.

Schonbrunn (horse-cars or omnibus) is a splendid suburban miperiai residence, where Napoleon I. had his headquarters, and where his son died (1832). Beautiful gardens, fountains, statuary, and flowers. On the W. are the villas of Hietzing. Laxenburg (f hr. by rly.) is another imperial chateau (built in 1377), with many interesting halls and monuments. The Kahlenberg, N. of Vienna, overlooks the Danube plain, the Carpatiiians, and the Styrian Alps. There are many other lovely excursions in the environs.

PESTH 255

SOUTHEASTERN EUROPE

IHIS interesting region is easily reached from Vi- enna, whence steamers descend the Danube to Pesth in 12-13 hrs. (starting at 6.30 a. m. ; fares, 7 fl., 4f fl.). Pesth to Vienna, by rly,, 7-8 hrs. (fares 9 fl. 60 kr. , 7 fl. 80 kr. by express). The steamer passes Lobau island, where Napoleon and 150,000 soldiers, with 700 cannon, were encamped in 1809; and tlie cas- tles of i>ejifcc/i.-J.^?^(S?i/!'irr^,7i«nz5?/r^, and Thebeiij and in 2^ hrs. reaches Presburg {Grilner Baum; Konig wn Ungarn), the former capital (48,000 inh.), on the foot-hills of the little Carpathians. In XhQ Cathedral (1090) the Hungarian kings were crowned. Before it is a statue of St. Martin. See the RatMaus (1288); the beautiful Franciscan Gh. (1293); &uAt\\Q Museums. From the ruins of the imperial palace, on the Schloss- lerg, there is a lovely view over the villages and vine- yards. Beautiful excursions in the vicinity.

Below Presburg the shores are flat. Komorn is a powerful fortress (14,000 inhab.); Gran (10,000 in. hab.) has lofty-domed cathedral; Wme^ratZ, a ven- erable fortress, ruined by the Turks.

Budapest {Grand Hotel Hungaria ; Queen of England; Panno7iia ; Jdgerhoiii ; Royal; Fiume, in Biida; MargaretenhaJ., on the island) has 750,000 inhabitants. It is the capital of Hungary, and is a handsome modern city, next only to Vienna in im- portance in the empire-kingdom. The beautiful modern Renpjssaiice Academy (11-1) contains a li- brary and botanical collection, and has many Hun- garian IPuudscapes and historical paintings. The National Museum (9-1) is rich in Roman Transyl- vanian, and Hungarian antiquities, and has a natural history collection and a library and waiting room. The magnificent Moro-Romanesque Redoute Build- ings contain ball-rooms, concert halls, assembly rooms, etc. The new M\iseum of Fine Arts Qovit&ms the great National (formerly Esterhazy) Gallery with

258 BELGRADE-BAZIASCH.

900 paintings, 22,000 drawings, and about 75,000 engravings, and also a collection of modern pictures. See the Indiislrial Art Iluseum with exterior colored ornamentation in Magyar style; the House of Par- liament ; the PaZctce of Justice; the Hathaus ; the Opera House; the new Jioyal Agricultural Museum in the Varosliget Park ; the Post Office ; the pro- menades along the Danube ; the statues of Stefan Szechenyi, Joseph von Eotvos, Archduke Joseph, Franz Deak, and Alexander Petofi ; the colossal sculptural bulls in front of the slaughter house ; the Varosliget Park ; the Kerepesi Cemetery with monu- ments of Kossuth, Battliyany, Deak, and others; the Margarethen-lnsel, a pretty island-park (cafes and military music) ; and various new national buildings. A splendid suspension-bridge andother bridges connect Pest and Buda (Ofen). The latter was once a Roman colony, and for 150 years a Turkish town. See the Royal Palace, the great modern fortress, and St. llafthius Church. There are famous baths in Ofen, founded by the Turks, near one of which is a mosque.

Steamers from Pesth to Orsova, 50 hours, a superb trip, passing Mohdcs, where the Turks conquered Hungary (1526); Neusatz, a fortified modern tuwn; Pet erward 6171, where Peter the Hermit preached the First Crusade ; Garloivitz, and Sejnlin, where is Hunyadi's castle.

Belgrade {Hotel de Paris), the capital of Servia, has 40,000 inhab., a quaint (Oriental town, with nar- row streets curving under a fortress-crowned rock.

4-5 hrs. below is Baziasch, the end of the ry. from Pesth. Travelers come down this way and take steamer at Baziasch, where the Danube enters the magnificent scenery of the Carpathians. On the r., in this tre-

ORSOVA. — BUCHAREST. 257

mendous defile, is the ruined fortress of Golubacz, and ancient Roman forts. At Drencova tlie rapids are entered. Servia is on the r., Hunc^arj on the 1. Through the Defile of Kasan the rive^r is 500-600 ft. wide, between immense rocky cliffs. Trajan's Roman road is on the r. bank ; and his inscription, commemo- rating the Dacian campaign, is near the end.

Orsova {Kmig vo7i Ungarn) is a pretty Wallachian village, just above the famous Iron Grates, where the Danube plunges through a rocky caiion \\ M. long. A rly. runs from Pesth to Orsova (305 M. ; fares, 25fl. 65kr., 19 11. 22 kr., 12fl. 80kr.), by Temesvar (33,000 inhab.). From Vienna to Bucharest by this favorite route, 29-30 hrs. (fares, 174 fr. 80 c, 131^ fr. ; the Roumanian currency is like that of France).

The through journey from Pesth to Constantinople (3 days; fares, food included, 108^ ti., 75|^fl.) is by rly. to Bayisch, thence by express-steamer to Rustchuk, rly. to Varna, and steamer down the Black Sea. Erora Giurgevo, opposite Rustchuk, rly. to Bucharest.

Vienna to Bucharest. — Fares, 16 fi. 62 kr,, 12 fL 70 kr., 9 fl. 79 kr., to Craco-w {Grand; Saxe), once the capital of Poland, annexed to Austria in 1846. Here is a fine cathedral, with the tombs of the Polish kings ; and a huge mound made of earth, erected by the people in honor of Kosciuszko. Fares, 16;^ fi., 12 fl. 18 kr., 61 fl., to Lemberg (Hotel de France/ D'Angleterre), the capital of Galicia, with 127,000 inhab. and a large university. Lemberg to Czernowit,^, 12 fi. 64 kr., 9 fl. 47 kr., 4 fl. 92 kr.; Czernowitz to Roman, fares proportional ; Roman to Buchare."* > 56 fl, 20kr.,42ifl., 28 fl. 10 kr.

Bucharest {Hotel Frascati), the capital of the kingdom of Rcumania, *' the Paris of the East," has 315, UOO inhab., and is a semi- Oriental town, divided

258 &EATZ. — TRIESTE.

into the Yellow, Red, Green, Black, and Blue districts, or wards. See the Palace, Theatre, War-Office, Uni- versitj, the Ch. and Monastery of Radu Vod (1572), the parks, the equestrian statue of Michael III., and 8ome of the chs.

Vienna to Gratz and Trieste.

Leaving Vienna at 7 a.m., one reaches Trieste in 14| hrs. (fares, 33 fl. 82 kr., 24 fl. 52 kr.), crossing the Semmering Pass by a wonderfully picturesque rly., with 30 tunnels and viaducts ; 25 M. of this line cost nearly $8,000,000. Semmering stat. is 2,892 ft. above the sea ; and here the rly. passes through the crowning ridge by a tunnel 1 M. long, and descends through the narrow Styrian valleys by Bruck, where the rly. to Venice diverges, and by a score of castles^ to

Gratz {Elephant; Daniel; Sivan), the capital of Styria (100,000 inhab.), a pretty, well-situated, and growing town, where many retired Austrian officers live. The Castle is 400 ft. above Gratz, and commands a grand view. See the Hall of the Styrian Estates, the Cathedral (1446), the Imperial Mausoleum, and the Johanneum Palace, with its library and picture-gallery.

Beyond Gratz the line traverses a picturesque mt. region, full of historical interest. At Steinbriick a branch diverges to Agram, the capital of Croatia. Farther on is Laibach, tlie capital of Carniola, with a fine castle and cathedral ; and Adelsberg {Grand Hotel Adelsberg ; Krone), whence the famous Stalactite Caverns (f M. W.) may be visited. The long zigzag descent to the Adriatic gives many splendid views,

TviQstQiHotel dela Ville; Delorme; Aquila Neva; Central), chief Austrian port (150,000 inhab.), is an Italian city in sentiment and appearance, beautifully

LINZ. — SALZBUKG. 259

situated on a fortified harbor, and visited by 14,000 vessels yearly, it has a venerable cathedral, a sump- tuous Greek ch., a tall Armenian eh., a far-viewing Capuchin monastery (with castle above), a Ghetto (Jews' quarter), many palaces, and several statues. The Tergesteum is a vast commercial building, head- quarters of the Austrian Lloyds. The Fiazzetta di Ricardo commemorates the imprisonment of Richard Coeur de Lion here. Beautiful drives on the St. An- drea Corso, to Miramar, the palace of Maximilian of Mexico ; and to Prosecco, of whose wine Yirgil spoke.

Steamers run from Trieste down the Istrian and Dalmatian coasts to Zara, Spalatro, Ragusa, Cattarq. Pola, and Eiume ; and to the Ionian and Greek ports, and Constantinople ; also to Venice. Rly. to Venice.

The Upper Danube, Salzburg, etc.

This region is full of beauty and picturesqueness. The descent by steamer from Linz to Vienna requires 8-9 hrs. (7fl., 4fl. 30_kr.); ascent, 18-20 hrs. The route to N. Germany is bv rly. to Linz and Munich. Uly. from Vienna in 117 M. (41-6 hrs. ; 10 fl. 80 kr., 8 fl. 10 kr.), by Molk, with its ancient monastery ; and Enm, strongly fortified with the ransom paid by England for Richard Coeur de Lion, and 3 M. from the. great Augustinian Abbey of St. Florian ; to

Iiinz {Erzherzog Carl ; Qoldmr Adler), the Ccipital of Upper Austria (50,000 inhab.), a pretty town, with a museum, castle, and Capuchin ch. 78|- M. S. W. (fares, 7 fl. 13 kr., 5 fl. 35 kr.«, express in 3 hrs.) is

Salzhnrg (Hotel de I' Europe ; D'Autriche; Nelbock), one of the most beautiful towns in Germany, with an Italian beauty in its flat-roofed houses, foantains, and marble fagades, and environs of far-famed picturesque-

260 THE SALZKAMMERGUT.

ness. The Palace, Cathedral, and Government build- iugs are in the old quarter. Here is Mozart's birthplace, his house, his statue, and a collection of his MSS. ; also the Ch. and Cemetery of St. Peter, and the Benedic- tine Abbey, with the cellar where Haydn used to enjoy his wine. See the Museum, the Pranciscan Ch., the imposing Portress of Hohen-Salzburg, and tlie high and -woodi^ M'dnchsberg ; 250 stone steps lead to tlie monas- tery on the Capuziterberg. The house of Paracelsus is near the river. The palace of Mirabell, Prince Schwart- zenberg's chateau of Aigen, and the imperial villa of Helbrunn, are near by.

Diligences ran 3 times daily (9fl. 73kr.) to Wild- bad Gastein {Straubmger; Oasteiner Ilof; Bade- schloss; Austria; Kaiserhof; Hirsch; Weismayr; G er mania) , whose warm springs attract thousands of nervous, gouty and debilitated folk. Beautiful hill-country, abounding in high waterfalls.

"The Salzkammergut, or " Austrian Switzerland," in which the Government has great salt-mines, covers 250 square M. between Salzburg and Styria, and has the finest scenery in Germany, sequestered green valleys, crystal lakes, and far-viewing mts. Diligences run daily from Salzburg (34 M. ; 4 fl.) to the expensive watering-place of Ischl [Kaiserin Elisabeth; Bauer ; Post ; Victoria^, near the centre of this Alpine region, with splendid villas of the Emperor and many nobles. Mud baths and whey baths here. >rand excursions in every direction. Prom Vienna to Ischl, leave Salzburg line at Lambach, and go by branch rly. to Gmunden (passing near the Traun Falls'), a quiet little summer- resort on the Traun See, Ihe most beautiful of German lakes. Thence 9 M. by steamer, amid grand lake and mt. scenery, to Langbath (diligence to Ischl, 12 M.).

Between Salzburg and Munich ry. traverses a pic- turesque mt. region.

MUNICH, 261

Munich and the Tyrol.

Munich(Bay riscJie?^ Ilof; Riissischer Ilof; RUein-' ischer Ilof; Eiiglischer Hof; Vier Jahreszeiten; Continental; de V Europe;, (jrrunwald; Park), the capital of Bavaria (550,000 inhab.), is on the. Isar river, on a broad, lofty and barren plain. The eliraate is variable, and almost severe. Living is cheap, and furnished rooms may be had reasonably for a stay of 2-4 weeks. The Royal Palace, an imitation of the Pitti Palace, contains magnificent frescos from the- Odyssey and the Niebelungenlied, and from the lives- of Charlemagne, Barbarossa, and the Hapsburgs ; and, in the Throne-RiOom, Schwanthaler's grand statues of 12 Wittelsbach princes. In the adjacent Old- Residence (1600-16) is the sumptuous Royal Chapel (open Tues., 9.30-11) ; also the Treasury (Tues. and JPri., 9-11), with the Bavarian regalia, the great blue- diamond, and the crowns of Bohemia (captured in 1620),, and of the Emperor Henry II. and the Empress Cuni. gunda (1010). The Festsaalbau, with noble portico- and statues, fronts on the Hofgarten, around which ruij. richly frescoed Arcades, containing the Ethnographical Museum and the Art TJnion. 11\\q Mof -Theatre, adorned" with many fine statues, is the largest in Germany.

To the east of the palace is the Bavarian Military Museum, with elaborately ornamented cannon in front. The Bavarian National 3Inseum in the Prinz-Regenten Street contains collections of great historical interest of industrial art, mediaeval Chris- tian art, and modern art;^ textiles, armor, ceramics; old MSS. and specimens^ of early printing.

The Ludwigs-Strasseruns from the Hall of Gen- erals to Gate of Victory, a triumphal arch erected by Lewis I. to the Bavarian army, with statues and reliefs, and surmounted by a bronze Bavaria, in a chariot drawn by lions. On and near this street are the Odeon concert-hall ; Theatine Ch., with the

g62 MUNICH.

royal tomLs ; the equestrian statue of Lewis f ; ; the War Office ; the Library (10-12 daily), — a Florentine building with fine statues and an imposing stairway, 1,000,000 vols,, 25,000 MSS., and literary curios- ities, — the Codex Aureus, Alaric's breviary, the prayer- books of Diirer and Emperor Lewis, the oldest Kiebelungenlied MS., etc. ; the Ludwigshirche, a splendid eh. in Italian stj^le, with Cornelius's Last Judgment and other frescos ; and a great square, witli statues, bounded by the Priests' Seminary, the Max- Joseph School and the University (1,400 students) . Beyond the Gate of Victory is the Academy of Art, with figures of Castor and Pollux at the entrance. From the 3Iax-Joseph Platz (on which are the Theatre, Royal Palace, Post Office and Max-Joseph's Statue) the handsome Maximilian-Strasse, 3-^ M. long, runs to the Isar, by the Four-Seasons Ilotei, the Government buildings, a long square with statues (one of the Massachusetts Count Rumford), and the old National Museum, to the handsome Maximilia- neum civil-service school, adorned with frescos and statuary. The huge brick Cathedral (1468-88) is 118 ft. high inside, and has towers 357 ft. high, and 30 windows 72 ft. high, several monuments, and a captured Turkish flag. St. MichaeVs Ch. has a noble dome, and Thorwaldsen s jonument to Eugene Beauharnais, vice- roy of Italy The AllefheiligenUrche is a magnificent Byzantine ch., rich in colored marbles and frescos on gold ground. St. Bo7iiface, an imitation of a 5th- century basiUca, is a very beautiful 4-aisled ch., with round arches supported by 66 monolithic columns of gray Tyrolese marble, gilded roof-timbers, royal tombs, and many frescos by Hess. The statue ofMaximilianI was designed by Thorwaldsen, and made of captured Turkish cannon. Near it is the mediaeval Wittelshach Palace,— The Academy of Science, in the old Jesuits College, has vast collections of fossils, minerals, coiuSu

MUNICH. 263

easts, etc. See also the statues of Scliiller, Gluck, Orlando di Lasso, and Max Emanuel ; the Marian Column (1638) ; the Obelisk, 100 ft. high, of captured gun-metal, to 30,000 Bavarians who died in the Russian war ; the ancient and imposing Isar and Neuhauser Gates ; the great bronze-foundry, with collection of mod/^ls (daily, 1-6) ; the Museum of Schwanthaler's works ; the great beer-gardens (especially the Hof- Brewery) ; and the splendid arcaded cemetery.

The Old Pinakothek (open daily, except Sat., 19-3) is a vast Renaissance structure, adorned with 34 statues of famous artists, and with a long arcade frescoed by Cornelius with scenes from the history of mediaeval art. The Museum contains 1,400 paintings, including fine works of Raphael, Correggio, Titian, Holbein, Diirer, and Rubens. On the ground iloor, 300,000 engravings, 9,000 drawings, and cabinets of Greek and Etruscan vases (catalogue, 1 mk.). The Ne-w Pinakothek (open free Sun., Tues., Thurs., and Sat., 10-12 and 2-4), frescoed outside from Kaulbach's designs, contains 650 modern paintings (mostly of the Munich school) by Kaulbach, Overbeck, etc. The Glyptothek (free Mon., Wed. and Fri., other days Imk.) is a handsome Ionic building, with 12 richly frescoed vaulted halls, enshrining Egyptian, Greek, Latin, and modern sculptures, and choice works of Canova, Thorwaldsen, Dannecker, etc. Opposite is the Corinthian Hxhihition Building, where new Munich pictures are exhibited and sold every summer ; and N. W. is the famous Stained-Glcifis Institution. The Propylsea Gate in the Konigz-Platz is a splendid copy of the gateway to the Acropolis at Athens, built in 1863, and adorned with sculptures. To the west of this gate is the Schark Gallery, containing excellent collection of the works of modern German authors.

264 OBER-AMMERGAU. — INNSBRUCK.

The English Garden, laid out by Count E-umford^ begins at the Royal Palace, and runs N. 4 M. You can drive through it to the Observatory, 1^ M. 1^ M. outside the Carlsthor is the Hall of Fame, a Doric colonnade containing busts of 80 national celebrities. Here stands the bronze Stahie of Bavaria, 56 ft. high. Ascend into its head, v^hence there is a fine view. The royal chateau and deer-park Nymphenburg and tlie Porcelain factory are 3 M. W. of Munich. The Lake of Starnberg (15 M. ; rly. in 1 hr.) 12i X 3 M. ia area, has fine mt. vievt^s, villas of wealthy Munichers, and several chateaux.

Persons spending a day in Mnnicli can obtain a good mid-day lunch at Schleich's, 8 Brienner-Strasse. Operas at Hof und National-Theatre (prices low), Sun., Mon., Thurs. and Fri., except in July (open, as usual in Ger- many, at 6.30 or 7). Good classical music on Sun. at St. Michael's, the Court church.

To reach Ober-Ammergau take train to Murnau, \\\ M., whence carriage, passing the ancient abbey of Mtal and up the Ammerthal. This is a pleasant summer-journey among Bavarian mts. and lakes, and into the country of the Passion Play. See local guides.

Through the Tyrol to Italy. — Prom Munich to Verona, 286 M. (20-24 hrs. ; fares, 24 mk. 92 pf., 18 mk., llmk. 91pf. ; to Innsbruck, llmk. 60pf., 8 mk. 5 pf., 5imk.). The rly. leads by Rosenheim to Kufstein (^Post Hotel), an ancient fortress command- ing the Tyrolese frontier ; and up the beautiful valley of the Inn ; by busy and picturesque old Schwaz, among rich iron and copper mines ; and Hall, whose ch. has a picture by Diirer.

Innsbruck {Hotel de V Europe; Tirol; Stadt Milnchen), the capital of the Tyrol (24,000 inh.), is beautifully situated in tiie midst of mts.. 6-8,000 ft

THE TYROL. 265

high, whose peaks seem to overhang its streets. On the wooden bridge which gives name to the town, Hofer's Tyrolese riflemen thrice defeated Napoleon's Bavarians in the War of Independence (1809). Hofer, the innkeeper who led the Tyrol in arms against the French for 14 years, and was shot by Napoleon at Mantua, now lies in the Silver Chapel of Innsbruck's Franciscan CIi., under a splendid monument. In the same ch. is the monument (1513-83) of the Emperor Maximilian I., a bronze statue kneeling on a sarcopha- gus, and surrounded by 28 royal bronze statues and 24 exquisite historical reliefs, in marble (which the sac- ristan uncovers and explains). Queen Christina of Sweden abjured Protestantism in tliis ch. in 1654. See also the Palace, built by Maria Theresa ; the Golden Roof; the University ; tlie Triumphal Arch; the in- teresting museum and picture-gallery; the ancient Capuchin Monaster^/ ; the wealthy Abbey of Wilteni and the fine old castle of Anibras (13th century).

The rly. ascends the Lill valley, and crosses tne Brenner Pass, 4,588 ft. high, the water-shed between the Adriatic and Black Seas. At the fortress of 'Franzensfeste trains stop for meals. Erom Sterzing the glaciers of the Stubbaythal are visible. Then comes semi-Italian Brixen, an ancient ecclesiastical capital, with many chs. and cloisters ; Bozen {Hotel Victoria ; Kaiserkrone), frequented by invalids, and in one of the "finest Tyrolese glens, with grand excursions to Meran, etc. ; mountain-girdled Trent {Europa'), once an Etrus- can town, known to Strabo and Ptolemy, and now rich in old towers, ruined castles, marble palace*?, a grand 13th-century cathedral, and the Ch. of Sta. Maria Maggiore, where the celebrated Council of Trent held its sessions, 1545-63 ; and Roveredo, on the Adige. Beyond, the line runs through a region familiar to Dante, entering Italy beyond Ala.

:i66 ULM. — STUTTGART.

Switzer)andv[i?ij be readied directly from Munich, by rly. to Lindau, whence boat across Lake Constance to Romanshorn, and rly. to Zurich (tares, to Lindau, 17 mks. 70 pf., llf mks., 7 mks- 55 pf. ; to Zurich, 31f mks., 22 mks. 45 pf.). We rec ommend the tourist, however, to go on from Munich to Augs- burg and Stuttgart, with a detour to Nuremberg, Baireuth, etc. ; and from Nuremberg or Wiirzburg to Heidelberg.

Augsburg, Stuttgart, Nuremberg, Heidelberg.

Rly. in 1^2 hrs. from Munich to Augsburg {Bai'

erischerhof; Kaiserhof: Drei Mohreri, a very ancient hotel, in which Charles V. was entertained), once, a free imperial town of vast wealtli, and the centre or trade between Germany and the Levant, now has 76,000 iiihab. There remain many picturesque old houses, frescoed outside ; the ancient Falace in which the Augsburg Confession was given ; the venerable chs. of St. Anna and St. Ulrich ; the Rathhaus (1616-20), with its Golden Hall ; the rambling Gothic Cathedral (995), with handsome cloisters ; and the frescoed Ftig- gerhaus, the home of the richest merchants of 16th- century Europe. See also the fountains, the Arsenal, the Museum, and the gallery of Suabian pictures. It is 3-3 hrs. (6 fl. 80 kr., 4 fl. 55 kr., 2 fl. 90 kr.) to Ulra {Hotel BaJiJiliof, Jlunste?', Goldener Loive, Baumstark), a fortress of Wiirtemburg (37,000 inh;), on the Danube. The Gothic Cathedral (1377) has im- mense organ, finely carved oaken stalls, and a nave 137 ft. high. Grand view of the Alps from the tower (528 ft. high), Rly. to Lake Constance in 4-5 hrs. Rly. from Ulm across Wtirtemberg (2^-4 hrs.) to StnttgB.rt(Margum^df; Royal; Silher; Dierlamm) capital of Wiirtemburg (250,000 inhab.), beautifully

CANNSTADT. — NUREMBERG. 267

(Situated among the lulls and vineyards, and the home of a large Anglo-American colony. The l^'dnigsbau (Royal Palace) has an Ionic colonnade and Corinthian porticos. Opposite, across the Schloss-Platz, is the new Palace (1746-1807), containing very fnie sculp- tures (open daily, 9-6). Near by are the Theatre and the Old Palace (1553-70) ; also the Stiftsklrche (1436-95), with statues of 11 Counts of Wiirtemberg; Thorwaldsen's statue of Scliiiler ; and various na- tional buildings. The Royal Library (open daily, ex- cept Sat. and' Sun.) contains 500,000 vols, and 3,800 MSS. ; and the Museum, of Art (open daily except Men.) lias a collection of pictures and statuary. The Kbiiigs-Strasse and Neckar-Strasse are the chief streets. There are small but interesting museums, and good schools. Charming views from the Hasenberg, Uhlandshoiie, and Schillershohe. Visit Stadt-Q-arten. The Anlagen park, decorated with statues, extends over 2 M., to Ca.nnata.dt {Vier Jahreszeiten ; Bahiu hqf; Bar), on the Neckar, with warm saline and cha- lybeate springs, much frequented by invalids. See the Royal Villa, the Rosenstein, and other villas on the heights ; also the Kursaal and the Wilhelma. The grave of Freiligrath is here. There are several other notable excursions to be made from Stuttgart.

From xiugsburg (fares, 12 mks. 60 pf., 9 mks., 5f mks.), or from Stuttgart, via Grailsheim and Ansbach C19 mks. 70 kr., 13 mks. 85 kr.), go to

Nuremberg {Wiifelsbach ; Victoria; Goldener Adler ; Wurtembergerhof ; Grand), a delightful old town (140,000 inhabitants), famous for its quaint media3val houses, oriel windows, and toy factories, and the centre of trade between North and South Germany. At one time there flourished here Veit Stoss, Vischer, and Kraft't, the carvers; the teacher and disciples of Albert Diirer, and the great

268 NUREMBERG.

master liimself; and Hans Sachs, tlie eobbler-poee. The two latter ai'e buried in St. John's Cemetery ; their houses are religiously kept ; E.auch's statue of Durer stands in the Milk Market, and Hans Sachs's monu- ment is in the Spital-Platz. The lofty wall which -encircles Nuremberg has 75 towers of masonry, the 4 largest of which were built by linger. Take a walk around these walls, and also note the sin^idar old bridges over the Pegnitz. Peter Vischer is buried at <6V. Rochus, and his house is preserved. The finest ch. is St. Lawrence, a red-sandstone structure (1287-1477), with a splendid W. portal and rose-window, Krafft's wonderful ciborium, 66ft. high, and Veit Stoss's wood carvings. See fountains .outside. In the Goose Mar- ket is the ancient bronze fountain- figure of the Little Goose Man. The Frauenkirche has splendid fagade, and rich old glass and works of art inside. Opposite is a tall Gothic column (1385-96), surrounded with statues of heroes. Si. Sebaldus, a 13th-century Gothic basijica, contains rare old paintings, and- the famous Shrine of St. Sebaldus, "the most exquisite gem of German art," whose multitude of statues and carvings were made by Yischer and his sons (1506-19) Op- posite is St. Maurice, now a gallery containing many old German paintings. St. Egiduis (1140) has an altar-piece by Van Dyck. The Germanic Museum, in an old Carthusian convent (beautiful cloisters), has a fresco by Kaulbach, and many mediaeval rehcs and pictures. In the old Dominican convent is the Maxi- milian collection of mediaeval antiquities; also, the Town Library (open daily, 9-12, 3-6), with 70,000 vols, and 2,000 MSS. The Burg is a Gothic castle on a rock to the N., built in 10:^4, and enlarged by Barbarossa in 1158, destroyed in 1420, and now par- tially restored. It is rich in ponderous towers, quaint chapels and anti(^ue halls. In main tower (adm. 20

RATISBON. - WALHALLA. ~ KELHEIM. 269

pf.) is a torture chamber, the chief instrument in which is an "Iron Virgin." Beautiful view from here over town and country. The Rathhaus contains many pictures. See also the new law-courts and the Sclione Brun7ien.

Ratisbon (Maximilian; Oruner Kranz; National; Kar7nelite7ibrau), called in German Regejisburg, a very ancient free town, where the Imperial Diet was held from 1663 to lb08, is now Bavarian. There are many mediaeval houses, with armorial bearings still upon them, and with towers of defence (especially in Ambas- sadors'-St.). The Cathedral (1275) has a rich fa9ade and porch, lofty towers, and a very symmetrical nave, 129 ft. high; also, fine monuments by Canova and Vischer, an altar of silver, and cloisters. The 12th- century Benedictine Ch. of St. James has strange old sculptures ; and the Benedictine Monastery of St. Em- meran, founded in 652, and enriched by Charlemagne, has since 1813 been the palace of the Princes of Thurn and Taxis. The 14th-century Rathhaus contains many implements of torture.

7 M. distant (steamboat or tramway), on a hill over the Danube, is the Walhalla, built 1830-42 (at a cost of $3,400,000) by King Lewis as a Temple of Eame. It resembles the Athenian Parthenon, and is of huge granite blocks, surrounded with 52 Doric columns, and adorned in the pedirients with Schwan- thaler's sculptures of the Battles of Leipsic and Armin- ius. The roof is of iron and copper. The interior hall, 180 X 50 ft., decorated with friezes, contains 6 Victory statues by E,auch,and 101 busts of illustrious Germans. View of Bavarian Forest and Alps.

Kelheim, up the Danube, has the huge ciioulai Hall of Liberation, built by King Lewis, 1842-63, to commemorate the Battle of Leipsic. It i3 lined with

270 BAMBERG. - BAIREUTH, - HEIDELBERG.

marble, and contains 84 Victory statues, of Carrara marble; while outside are 18 colossal statues. ^'W-ax7.'bvLY^{Uussischer Hof) has a vast Royal Palace, di Cathedral (1189-1240), the Neumiiuster Cb. (with tomb of Walther von der Vogelweide), the handsome Mariencapelle, and a university. Kly. (7 niks. 60 kr., 5 mks. 5 Icr., 3 mks. 20 kr.) to Baireuth, by

IBainhevg (Bambei^ger Hbf),a, hill-town, with a splen. did 12th-century Romanesque Cathedral, rich in monu- ments and rehcs. The Lijceum contains 2,600 MSS. In \)(\e,Falace, Napoleon 1. declared war against Prussia The rly. runs around the Pranconian Switzerland to

Baireuth {Reichsadler ; Sonne; Anker), the seat of "Wagner's great theatre, and of an old opera house. Jean Paul Ricliter's house, statue, and tomb are here. Se€ Wagner's house and grave, the Palaces, the war monument of 1870-71, and the ducal chateaux of the Eremitage and the Fantaisle (each 3 M. out). Ex- cursions into the Fichtelgebirge.

Prom Wiirzburg it is 5-7 hrs. (fares, 12 mks. 80 pf., 8-| raks., 5 mks. 45 pf.) to

Heidelberg {Hotel de V Europe ; Grand; Schrieder ; Victoria, near stat. In town, Prinz Carl ; Perkeo ; Adler. On hill, Schlossa,nd Bellevue), renowned for its history, its learned University, and its beautiful situation, where the mo untainous Neckar valley enters the great Rhine plain. The University (founded 1386) has valuable museums, and a library of 400,000 vols. The buildings are homely. The Gasile, 380 ft. above the Neckar, was founded in 1195 and added to by subsequent electors and kings. In 1689 the French Gen. Melac, forced to retreat thence, burned and blew up the castle ; and the destruction was completed by lightning in 1764. . It is the grandest ruin in Germany. See the splendid Renaissance Otto-IIeinrichs building (1556) ; Erie-

SPIRES. — WORMS. 271

iri^hs building (1601), rich in statues, and containing the great Tun (dtO,000 gallons) ; and other palaces, towers, and gardens. From the Kouigsstuhl, 905 ft. above the castle (1 hr. by road), grand view of the Rhine and Neckar valleys, the Black Eorest, Taunus, and Odenwald, and out to Strasbourg Cathedral.

Spires, Worms, Baden, Strasbourg.

It is a short ride, down the Neckar valley, to

Mannheim {Deutscher Hof; Pfdlzer Hof; Lehn), a town of 165,000 mhab. , on the Rhine, very regularly laid out, and adorned with a great palace and picture- gallery and several statues. Eine rly.-bridge across the Rhine, to Ludioigshaven. 1 hr. by rly. to the S. is

Spires {Rhehmcher Rof ; Wittelshacher Hof), the capital of the Bavarian Palatinate (19,000 inhab.). The vast and imposing Romanesque Cathedral (open 9-11, 2-6) was founded in 1030, and in 1146 St. Bernhard preached the Crusade in it. 9 German em- perors and 3 empresses were buried here. See new faQade and Emperor's Hall; the magnificent modern frescos; and the imperial statues by Schwanthaler. A handsome Memorial Church has recently been erected here to commemorate the protests uttered against the decree of the diet of Speyer in 1529, whence came the designation " Protestant."

Worms {Alter Kaiser; Martmann), f hr. N. of Ludwigshaven, successively capital of Burgundian and Pranconian kings, and of Charlemagne, is now a de- cadent Hessian town. The splendid Romanesque Ca- thedral (1110) has 4 towers and 2 domes, and a stately interior, 357 ft. long. On the square occurred events sung of in the Niebelungenlied ; and on one side is the Renaissance HeiVsche Ham, on the site of the palace where Luther defended his doctrines before Charles V,

^ 72 DARMSTADT. — CARLSRUHE. — BADEN.

iand the Diet of Worms (1521). Luther s Monument (built 1859-68) consists of his colossal statue, around and below which are statues of 6 Reformers, 2 Protes- tant princes, and 3 German cities. It is a grand work.

Darmstadt {Traube ; Britannia)^ the hand- some capital of Hesse (64,000 inhab.), has in its Palace a library of 600,000 vols., and a noble gallery of 700 paintings (open daily). In the palace on Anna-Strasse is the celebrated Meyer Madonna, by Holbein (1 mk,).

From Heidelberg,2 hrs. (5rnks. 5pf. , 3mi?s. 60pf .) to

Carlsruhe (Griiiier Mof; Hotel Grosse), the capital of Baden (90,000 inhab.), with handsome modern buildings, squares, and monuments. The streets radiate like fan-sticks from the handsome Palace and park. The Romanesque Hall of Art contains 6-70() pictures, and other collections. From hand- some rly. Stat, 1 hr. (3 mks. 4G pf., 2 mks. 35 pf.-. change cars at Oos) to

Baden-Baden (F^c^6>?'^a; Badischer; Englischerj; Messmer; Darmstadt), in a glen amid the foothills of the Black Porest, 40,000 foreigners come here yearly, to indulge in fashionable lounging, to enjoy the mild climate and beautiful environs, and to drink the min- eral waters. Vast and magnificent Trink-Halle, Con- Tersation-House, and Bath-House. The lofty New -Castle (1 mk.), built 1479-1519, is the summer home of the Grand Duke. Band music in the town several times daily. Good theatre. Prices at Baden generally ,high. Excursions thence into the Black Forest. Rly. S. to Kehl, where the Rhine is crossed to

Strasbourg {Maison Rouge ; Hotel de la Ville de {Paris; Pfeijfer; National), the capital of Al- sace-Lorraine (140,000 inh.), terribly bombarded in the war of 1870-71. The grand Cathedral, built 1015- .1439, has magnificent f aQade by Erwin von Steinbach

STRASBOUBG. — FREIBUEG. 273

(1318), and a spire 465 ft. high (ascent, l|mk.)^ whence an exteubive view is gained, even to the Jura Mts. The interior, 323 ft. long and 99 ft. high, with its 15th-century stained windows, slender and riclily carved pillars, and Erwin's tomb and pillar, is impressive. The celebrated Astronomical Clock is in the S. transept. The bombardment of 1870, which destroyed the Library, Theatre, Picture Gallery, etc., spared the Cathedral. The new UnU versity, now specially favored by Germany, is at the Fischer Gate. The new Library already has 800,- 000 vols. In 8t, Thomas Gh. (10 pf.) is a vast marble monument to Marshal Saxe, which it took 20 years to make. In the Place Gutenberg is a statue of Gut- enberg. The New Temple has been rebuilt magnifi- cently. Many statues on the squares. Strasbourg is an important strategic point, and vast fortifica- tions have recently been erected by the Germans.

From Strasbourg go to Basle (fares, 11|- mks., 7 mks. 68 pf., 4 mks. 90 pf.) along the Black Forest.

Freiburg {Zahrincier ; Victoria ; Europe) is a pretty forest-town of 54,000 inhab., and the capital of the Breisgau. It has suffered much in many wars. The Cathedral is a symmetrical red-sandstone Gothic ch. (1122-1236), with a remarkable tower, 397 ft. high ; a rich portal, with statuary ; and an inte- rior (342ft. X 102ft. and 85ft. high) li.L^lited frcm five stained windows, and containing many old monu- ments, paintings, etc. (best time to visit, 10.30-12 ; fee at choir, 50 pf. ; to tower, 60 pf .). The Eavfhaus^- on the S., is a handsome 15th-century building. The new Victory Monument chiefly honors Gen. von Werder. See the quaint fountains, the streams of pure water in the streets, and the pretty pebble pave- ments. Climb the 8chlossherg. Grand view over Black Forest, Vosges, and Rhineland.

From Freib-jrg to Basle, 2 hrs. ; 5| mks. , 4 mkjw

274 BASLE.

SWITZERLAND.

IT'O^ direct routes from Paris, see page 199. Swiss "'■ money is in francs, like French. The Swiss season is Aug. in the high Alps, July 15 to Sept. 15 elsewhere. Return and excursion tickets on all Swiss rlys. Pensions (large summer boarding-houses) at all chief resorts, $.80-$2.00 a day.

Basle J Zurich!, Lake Constance.

Basle (Trois Hois; Metropole; Bauer; SchweizeV' Jiof; Victoria; Euler), a town of 125,000 inhab., on Rhine, has rlys. in every direction. There are many handsome streets, and pleasant parks and promenades. The Cathedral, built by Henry II. in 1010-19, and re^ stored after destructions by fire and earthquake, is an imposing Gothic building of red sandstone, no\> Protestant (Wed., 2-4, free ; other times ^fr.) Ancient statuary on facades; 2 lofty towers, built in 1500. Ii. rich and beautiful interior see the roodloft (1381) stained windows; Chapel of St. Nicholas; font (1465): pulpit (1486); tombs of Erasmus and of Empress Anna; sculptures on N. portal and around choir. Very fine cloisters (1362-1487), leading to the Pfalz terrace, Historical Museum (Sun. and Wed. free; closed on Monday; other days ^ fr.) has fragments of the 15th century fresco of The Dance of Death.

The Museum (ifr. ; Sun„ and Wed. free), has many historic and scientific curiosities, and the largest Swiss picture-gallery, including many choice Holbeins (The Passion, etc.) and works of modern Germans. Also University Library (200,000 vols.) and a great hall. The Mission Mouse^ for education of missionaries, is

SCHAFFHAUSEN. 275

one of the powerful local theological influences, and has an interesting museum (open daily). See the Town Hall (1508); the Spahlen Gate (1400); the quaint fountains; and St. Elizabeth'' s Church, with view from tower.

Basle to Lucerne, direct, 55J M. ; fares, 9 fr. 40 c, 6 fr. 60c., 4 fr. 40c. It is better, however, to go via the Falls of the Rhine and Lake Constance, bv rly. up the Rhine. From Basle it is 59 M. (9^ fr., 6 fr. 30 c, 4 fr. 5c.) to

Schaffhausen {National ; 3Iuller ; Riese) a pic- turesque town, with quaint, old frescoed houses; a wall with 6 gates, and old towers; a massive castle (1564); and a Romanesque Cathedral (1101). The bell inscribed Vivos voco, mortuosplango, fulgurafrango, cast in 1486, is in room near cloisters. The Falls of the Rhine may be visited hence (carriage, 2 fr. 40 c., or tram) . They are near Neuhausen stat. (Schweizer- hof, with view of Alps and Falls; Bellevue). Here the Rhine, 380-400 H. wide, descends 100 ft., in rapids, whirlpools and 3 falls, over limestone ledges. It is the largest fall in Europe, and should be seen by moonlight, or under its morning or late-afternoon rainbows. You may ascend the rock which divides the falls (3 fr.); or view them from Laufen castle (1 fr.), the best point, where the Fischetz platform should be visited. The falls are illuminated summer I evenings by colored lights, for which a small charge • is made in the hotel bill.

I Constance {Insel ; Ilechf), a decadent town of I 21,000 inhab. The Cathedral (1502) has notable 1 stained glass, bas-reliefs, cloisters, choir-stalls, and I the stone on which John Huss is reported to have i stood when sentenced. W. of the town is a stone I marking where Huss and Jerome of Prague were burned alive (1415-16). In/ the frescoed Kaufhans (1^ fr.) the Council of Constance met (1414-18). Se^

276 ZURICH.

Town Hall (1593), St. Stephen's Ch., and former Dominican monastery, on an island, now converted into the Insel Hotel; with Romanesque cloisters.

Zurich {Hotel JBaur au Lac; Bellevue ; National)., on the swift green river Limmat, at the foot of the beautiful Lake Ziirich. Remarkable view (espe- cially by moonlight) fi'om bridge, of villages, villas, embowered spires, and distant Alps. Ziirich is famous for learned schools, beautiful environs, and conclaves of political exiles. See the Ro- manesque Cathedral (12th century), with fine cloisters and statue of Charlemagne; Town Hall; the handsome Quai-Bruclce {\^'$)'^); Holie Promenade, with fine view ; Library, with rare MSS. ; Polytech-^ nic School, splendid view from terrace; Art Building, St. Augustijies Ch.; St. Peters Ch., where Lavater preached 23 years ; Arsenal, with Tell's bow, Zwing- lius's battle-axe, etc. ; and Botanic Gardens, with ; busts of de Candolle and other botanists.

In the Platz Promenade, in the triangle between the Sihl and Limmat rivers, is the Swiss National Museum (open daily ex. Mon. ; free in afternoon, 1 fr. in morning). This contains a miscellaneous col- lection of objects illustrating Swiss history, art, and industrial progress; the collection of stained glass is particularly fine. The Tonhalle, on the lake w. of the Quai-Briicke, has good restaurant; concert here every evening.

Lake Constance (in German the Boden-See, in Latin Lacus Brigantiims) is very pretty in summer, but has not the beauty of the other Swiss lakes. It is 42x8 M. in area, and 156^ M. around; very deep; with green water, abounding in trout ; flat, or undu- la.ting shores ; and distant views of the Alps of Yorarl- berg and Appenzell. In 4 centuries it has frozen over but 1 5 times. It lies between Baden, Austria, Bavaria, Y/iirtemberg, and Switzerland. There is an immense traffic between the lake-ports,

THE SPLUGEN PASS. 277

The Uetliberg, 2,864 ft. high, 6 M. S. W. of Zil- rich, is ascended by a rly. with a gradient in some places of 7 in 100 ft. (3 fr. 50 c, 2 fr. ; return tickets, 5 fr., 3 f r.). Tlie view includes Zurich and its lake, the Linimat Yalley, the Alps from the Sentis to the Jung- frau, the Righi, Pilatus, the Juras, Yosges, and Black- Forest peaks. Magnificent views from road up.

The Splligen Pass.

Ziirich (or Rohrschacli) is a good point from which to visit the Spliigen Pass. Very pleasant trip to its summit, although it is not the best route into Italv. Go i)y steamer (be careful to start from the right pier; 2-2 1 hrs. ; fares, 2 fr. 20 c, 1 fr. 40 c.) up the lovely Lake of Ziirich, 25^ X 2^ M. in area, with transpar- ent bluish-green water rellecting the chain of happy shore-villages and the snowy Alps of Schwyz and Gla- rus, to Rappersch-wyl {flofel du Lac ; Schvcm), which has the Lindenhof, Capuchin monastery, deer-park, and ancient castle, containing the Polish National Mm- seum. Kly. from Ziirich to Kapperschwyl, 22-|- M. ; fares, 4 fr. 70 c, 2 fr, 20 c. ; to Coire, 4-5 hrs. ; fares, 12 fr. 30 c, 8 fr. 90 c. The rly. follows Lake Ziirich from Rapperschwyl to Schmerikon ; ascends the Linth ^valley : runs along the shore of the magnificent Lake of Wallenstadt for 12 M. ; enters upper Rhine val- ley ; and runs S., through grand scenery, to

Ragatz {QuellenJiof and Ragafz, both united with the Casino; Schiveizerliof; Tamina; Bristol) favorite summer-resort at the mouth of the wonderful Tamina gorge, 2^ M. up which are the hot saline baths of Tfdffers^ amid very impressive rocky scenery, and cliffs 6-700 ft. high. A cable tramcar runs to the springs every \ hr.,, \ round trip If r. 30c. These waters have been prized for

278 COIRE.

800 years. They are conducted to the baths at Ragat>; The philosopher Schelling is buried at Ragatz.

The rly. ascends the Rhine valley, by the 4th century Roman tower of Mayenfeld, and many pretty villages, vineyards, and castles, to

Coire (SteinhocJc; Lukmamer), the capital of the Canton of the Grisons (12,000 inhab.), surrounded with picturesque walls and Roman towers, and nest- ling under the Ilittetiberg. The Cathedral {\2ih. c&n.- tury) contains a fine High Altar of carved wood, dating from 1490, and rare Roman antiquities. The EpiscoiJal Palace is very ancient (bishopric founded in 4th century). Grand views from the Rosenhiigel and other hills.

The Splugen Pass is reached twice daily by rly. from Coire to Thusis (1 hr. ; 17 M. ; 5 f r. 60 c, 4 fr. 20 c), thence by diligence (4 hrs. ; 16 M. ; 6 fr, 65 c. ; cou2Je, 7 f r. 90 c). Thusis ( Via Mala;. Post HotM) is a centre of grand excursions. Many tourists walk from here up through the Via Mala, a tremendous gorge between calcareous cliffs 1,600 feet high, with the Rhine roaring heavily below. Thousands of lives have been lost by avalanches and land-slips in this " Bad Way." The safe ne^v road, w^ith its tunnels and bridges, was built in 1822. A stone dropped from Second Bridge (247 ft. high ; here the scenery is grandest) makes a noise liie a camion.

The verdant farms of the Valley of Schams open out above ; and the road passes Zillis, with its venerable ch. ; Andeer, an old Romansch village ; traverses the wild Roffna Ravine, 3 M. long, by the Rhine cascades ; comes into view of the Einshorn and Pizzo Uccello peaks ; and reaches Splxigen {Hotel Bodenhaus), where the diligences all stop for dinner.

Diligences twice daily from Splilgen to Chiavenna <10 fr., cou:pe 12 fr.) ; rly. thence to Colico (3 fr., 2J fr..

BERNARDINO PASS. 279

1^ fr. It is about 7 M. from Spliigen to the top of the pass, 6,945 ft. high, the Italian frontier line, with jSuretfaJiorner (9,925 ft.) on one side, and Schnee- liorn(10,14S> ft.; Milan and Suabia are visible from it) on the other. The road descends by leagues of zigzags and galleries, ravines and cascades, to the vineyards and chestnut fields of Chiavenna {Con- radi), with its ruined castle and fine old ch. ; thence rly. down a mountain-girdled valley by liiva to Colico, on Lake Como.

By the Bernardino Pass, diligences run daily to Mesocco (lOfr. 25), thence by electric ry, to Bellin- zona (5f.5.) The road ascends the desolate Rheinwald valley 8-9 M. to the top of the pass (6,768 ft. high), surrounded by Alps and glaciers ; and thence de- scends by long zigzags, to Sail Beimardino, Mesocco, Cama, Roveredo and other charming Italian-Swiss villages, amid very grand scenery. From Bellinzona, riy. 14 M. to Locarno (f hr. ; 2 fr. 80 c, 1 fr. 60 c, 1 fr. 15 c), whence rly. to Lake Como and Mihan.

The Engadine is a dry, cold, and silent valley, 3,300 to 5,800 ft. high, 57 M. long, and 1 M. wide, between the Engadine and Bernina Alps and glaciers. It is divided into the Upper Engadine and the Lower Engadine; the former extends 24 M. from the Malaja Pass to Punt Ota, a bridge crossing a sm.all brook emptymg into the Inn River ; the latter, about 33 M. long, extends from Punt Ota to Martinsbruck on the Tyrolese frontier. The Upper Engadine, near St. Moritz, is much frequented, especially by English and Americans, and for those who need a cool, bracing air it is a wonderful health resort, being particularly adapted to the outdoor treatment of consumption.

From Coire the Albiila railway (59i M. ; 4 hrs. ; 23 fr. 25, 15 fr. 50) runs through picturesque moun- tain scenery, over numerous viaducts, and through 41 tunnels, one of them 4| M. in length, to

380 PONTRESINA - LUCERNE

St, Moritz {Kulm; Belvedere ; Palace; Grand; Schiveizerhof) , the highest settlement in the valley (6,000 ft.), a village of 2,000 inhabitants. Here is buried the founder of the Children's Aid Society of NewYork, Mr. Charles Loring^Brace. There are grand mountain views from several' points in the village. Three miles distant (electric tram, fare 20c.) are the

Baths of St. Moritz {Neues StaMhad; Victoria; Bellevue; Engadinerhof; Kurhaus; Du Lac), fam- ous for chalybeate springs, impregnated with carbonic acid and alkaline salts. Alps and glaciers surround the place, and the air is invigorating to invalids.

Pontresina (Roseg; Weisses Kreuz; Languard)y 7 M. from St. Moritz, is the starting-point for excur' sions in the Bernina chain. The season is shori, prices high, and society good.

The magnificent Bernina Pass, 7,657 ft. high, is crossed by daily diligences from Samaden, in 5^ hrs. (9 fr. 89) via Pontresina, to Poschiavo, whence elec- tric tram to Tirano; then rly. to Colico, on Lake Como (3 hr. ; 22 fr. 75, 17 fr. 40).

Lucerne, the Rigi, the St, Qothard Route

Rly. from Basle (3^- hrs. ; fares, 9 fr. 40 c, 6 fr. 60 c, 4 fr. 70 c); or from Zurich, by Zug {Q^ fr., 4fr. 55c., 3i fr.) ; or from Berne (11 fr., 7i- fr._, 5 fr. 30 c); to

Lucerne {Schweizerliof ; JBeaurivage; National ; Swan and Rigi; de V Europe; Tivoli; lAizernerliof; Reh stock ; on left bank, Victoria; du Lac; Sau- vage; Lngel), beautifully situated at the outlet of the most lovely lake in Switzerland, between the Pilatus and E-igi, and facing the Alps of Uri and Engelberg. The Tow7i Hall has ancient carvings; and in the Stiftshirclie see grand organ, carvings, stained glass. Thorwaldsen's Lion of Lucerne is a statue of a dying lion, 28ft. long, cut in the face of a cliff, and commemorating 800 soldiers of the Swiss

THE BIGL-LAKE OF LUCERNE. 281

Guard, who died in defence of the Tuileries in 1792. Cabell Bridge, built 1303, over river Reuss, has 154 old paintings on its roof, and ends at St. Peter's Chapel (12 century). The Water Tower, according to tradition, was once a lighthouse {lucerna), and gave name to the town. It now contains the archives. The Muhlen Bridge is ornamented with 30 singular pictures of the Dance of Death. See also Museum and Library (80,000 vols.) ; Stauffer's Alpine animals (1 fr.); the Glacier Garden (1 fr.) ; and the Jesuit ch. The SchweizerJwf Quay is a beautiful promenade with many trees, between the palatial hotels and the lake.

The Rigi is a group of mts., 30-40 M. around, the chief peak, the Kulm, being 5,905 ft. high (4,470 ft. above the lake), and nearly surrounded by the lakes of Lucerne, Zug, and Lowerz. The Kulm is ascended by a mt. rly., like that on Mt. Washington, and ha.s several hotels {Eigi-Kidm; Sonne; Rigi- Staff el; Rigi- Kalthad), whose landlords have been compelled by criticism to lower their prices and improve their man- ners. Engage rooms in advance in July or Aug. ; for then hundreds come up here to spend the night and see the sunrise. Take plenty of warm wraps. It is but 2^ hrs. from Lucerne to t^ie top, by steamer to Vitznau, and mt. rly. thence (4^ M.; 7 fr.). Circular ticket, good 3 days, from Zurich by Zug to the Rigi- Kulm, down by rly. and steamer to Lucerne, and back to Zurich, costs 22 f r. 40 c. , 19| fr. , 16 fr. 70 c. From the crest you see a line of snowy Alps, 120 M. long, the Sentis, Bernese range, Wetterhorn, Jungfrau, etc. ; elsewhere, the Juras, Vosges, Suabian Mts., Black Forest ; many a famous Swiss town ; and 13 lakes. The Rigi-Scheidegg(-ff«^rMws), command- ing a very noble view, is reached by branch rly.

From Vitznau go by steamer (2 hrs. ; 2 f r. 20 c. , 1 f r. 10 c.) to Flilelen, up the superb Lake of Lucerne ( Vierwaldstdtter-See, or Lake of the Four Forest Can'

282 ALTORF. — AMSTEG.

tons), tlie grandest in Europe, 1,433 ft. iiigli, 25 M. long, and ]-4 M. wide. It forms an irregular cross, between Yast mts. From the summer liotels at the numerous villages — Beckenried, Gersau, Brunnen, etc. ■ — fine mt. excursions may be made. Just beyond Seelisberg are the sacred springs of the Riitli, on wliose meadow I'iirst, Erni, and Stauffacher founded the Swiss liberties, in 1307. Beyond is Tell's Platte, with its romantic chapel, on the ledge where Tell leaped ashore from Gessler's boat. Marvellous scenery thence to tlie head of the lake.

Superb views are had from several poin^ i near the city. The finest is from the Sonnenterg (20 min. by electric car and inclined rly. ; round trip 3 fr.) There is a golf course here near the hotel. A fine view of the mountains, the lake, and the town is also had from CrUtscli, an elevation to the west, reached by tram in 15 min. (return ticket 90 c). Another point where there is a good view is the Drei Linde7i, 20 min, by carriage along a good road.

Pluelen {Adler ; Kreuz ; Tell) is the port of Uri. 2 M. beyond is Altorf {Tell; Schlussel ; Lowe), Uri's capita], in a Tnonn tain-walled valley, and the reputed scene of Tell's shooting the apple. The site is marked by a fountain. Colossal statue of Tell near by. His birthplace, near Biirglen, is occupied by a frescoed chapel. 9 M. beyond Altorf is Amsteg (Stern; Kreuz ; Hirscli), where the Pass begnis. This was the chief route over the Alps until 1800. The road was built 1820-32. The scenery here is grander than on any other pass. The Lucerne-Milan rly. runs under the St. Gothard, in a tunnel nearly 9 M. long, built 1872-82, at a cost of over ^10,000,000.

Beyond Amsteg, the road ascends the narrow Heuss valley, with i.ne huge Bristeiistock on the 1. ; over tk©

ANDERMATT. - FUROA PASS. 283

iottj Pfafensprimg bge. ; by Wasen {Hotel des Alpes) and Wattingen, near Rohrhach fall and the Teufeh vtein; Geschenen, at the mouth of the tunnel ; up steep ascents, and over the DevWs Bridge, where French, Austrians, and Russians fought in 1799 ; through the Urner Loch tunnel, into Urseren valley; and up io Andermatt (BeUevue; du Touriste; St.' Oothard; Oberalp; Krone), among high and aridmts. crowned with snow. See chapel, and mineral collections. 9 M. distant is the summit of the St. Gothard Pass (6.936 ft. high), whence road descends steeply by the Hospice to Airolo and Biasca, whence rly. to Milan.

It is better to return from the top of the Pass, ^pend the night at Andermatt, and go over the

Furca and Grimsel Passes to Interlaken.

From Andermatt diligences run in 5-6 hrs. (21 M. ; 8.]-fr. ; coupe, 10 fr. 20 c), through Hospenthal (Mey' trhof; Lowe), 2^ M. out; and by a zigzag route up the precipices, amid wonderful scenery, to the top of fche Furca Pass (Hotel de la Furca), 7,992 ft. high; past the grand and lofty Galenstock and Furkahorn; and thence to the Rhone Glacier. This vast sea of ice, 10,450 ft. high, is surrounded by lofty snowy peaks, and gives birth to the famous river Rhone. Longfellow, in Hyperion, describes it as a frozen cata- ract, 2,000 ft, high, and many miles broad. You may go thence to Brieg by diligence (5 hrs. ; 104-fr. ; coupe, 12 fr. 75 c), whence rly. to Visp, en route to Zermatt. It is better to pass the night at the Hotel du Glacier du Rhone; and at morn go by horse (32 fr.) along the steep grassy Maienwand; up over the Grimsel Pass (7,103 ft. high); by the Lake of the Dead, in which the soldiers killed in the battles between the French

284 MEIEINGEN. — BEIENZ.

and AiTStrians hereabouts, in 1799, were buried; down the steeps to the Hospice (now a hotel), in the rocky mt. basin of the Orimselgrund, near the Agassizhora and the Finster-Aarhorn, and 2 hrs, from the Unter- Aar Glacier, where Prof. Agassiz abode in 1841 (ex- cursion to top of Little Sidelhorn, 3 hrs. ; guide, 4fr.) ; down the Aare ravine to the Handeck Falls (| fr.) ; where the icy river precipitates itself 250 ft., in a deep rocky gorge : by Guttanen, with its rock-strewn mead- ows ; to Im-Hof, whence a good road leads to

Meiring-en {Sauvage; Meiringenhof; Couronne; De V Ours) is beautifully situated in the Hasli valley near the Reichenbach Falls. It was almost totally de- stroyed by fire in October, 1891, but has been rebuilt. From behind the Chalet I'Ami you can descend into the canon of the Aare, It is 5|- hrs. hence to Han- deck Falls (horse up and back, 15 fr.).

The Briinig Pass is one of the most frequented. Lucerne to Alpnach (whence Pilatus may be ascended) by steamer {1\ hrs.), and thence by rail (10 fr.) to Bnenz, via Meiringen. You pass the pretty hamlet of Sarnen, in a rich valley be- tween high mts. ; Bacliseln^ with a saint's relics in its ch. ; over the Brunig Pass, 3,395 ft. high {Hotel Brunigkulm)\ and then downward, with magnificent mt. views, to the Aare, where you meet the valley road. We advise the tourist to go from Lncerne to the top of the St. Gothard, and thence over the Furca and Grimsel to Meir- ingen. You may go thence to the top of the Brunig in a morning.

Brienz {Bar; Weisses Krem);, on the mountain- walled Lake of Brienz. 800 people are employed here in wood-carving. The lake is 7^x2^ m., and the deepest in Switzerland. Jt is traversed by the

INTERLAKEN. — GRINDELWALD. 285

4rMtish-green waters of the Aare. The Giessbach is a series of 7 beautiful cascades, falling from rocks 1,148 ft. high, amid luxuriant herbage and stately trees, and ] illuminated at night by Bengal lights. A mt.-rly. leads from the landing on the lake, over the tree-tops, to the hotel (telegraph for rooms, and stay all night). By steamer in 10 min. from Brienz; thence by footpath jji 20 min. Steamer from Brienz, 7 times daily (3fr., Xir.), to Interlaken.

The Bernese Oberland

i !

I ', Interlaken {Victoria; 3Ietro;pole; Jungfrau; Des

Alpes; Belvedere; JimgfrauUich; Sonne; Cerf; de la

\ Gave ; Oberldnder ; Beilevue; Stadthaus; National,

' Dew^sc^-erAo/Vin the beautiful glen between the lakes

\ df Brienz and Thun, is the main rendezvous of tourists

I during the high season (July 15 to Oct. 1), and the

j best point for trips in any part of the Bernese Ober-

I land. People remaining 2-3 weeks in this great towa

\ of hotels can get board for 8-9 fr. a day, or in the

r pensions at 5-6 fr. See once magnificent Hohe weg

j promenade, lined with walnut-trees ; the Kursaal, with

semi-daily concerts ; the old wooden village of TJnter-

seen; the ruined castles of Unsprunnen and JFeissenau;

tod the precipitous Harder mt., where many fatal

accidents have occurred. The Interlaken hotels are

crowded with people of fashion ; and parties, balls, and

receptions continually occur.

Excursions. — The legal tariffs for carriages are printed in a pamphlet (to be had at the hotels), and are ad- hered to by drivers. Local guide-books (in English) describe routes and locaHties. Grindel-wald {Bar; Eiger ; Adler ; Du Glacter) is reached by railway or private conveyance, and is near two vast glaciers, in

286 LAUTERBRUNNEN— MURREN.

a valley surrounded by the Wetterhorn, Mettenberg^ and Eiger.

Lauterbrunnen {SteinbocTc; Staubhach) is 7| M. from Interlaken, in a narrow rock-girt glen, close to the famous Staubbach (dust-brook), a slender but unbroken fall 980 ft, high. Farther up the glen are the grand Sclimadrihach Fall and the far-viewing Steinberg Alp. A marvellous Alpine experience is gained by climbing (3f hrs.) to Miirren {Grand Hotel des Alpes; MUrren; Jungfrau; Eiger), a ham- let 5,847 ft. high, on the edge of a cliif which fronts on one of the grandest Oberland ranges. The trip from Lauterbrunnen to Miirren can now be made by rly. (return tickets, 6 f r. ) . Large English colony here, July-September, with church. Grand views of Jungfrau, Eiger, Breithorn, Monch, etc. Excursion thence to the Scliingelhorn in 4-6 hrs. (guide neces- sary; return, 3 hrs.).

From Lauterbrunnen bridle-path over the Wen- gernalp ; by the Hotel de la Jungfrau, whence is the finest view of the Jungfrau, 13,671 ft, high; ovei the Little Scheidegg {Hotel Bellevue), 6,788 ft. high, with magnificent views; and down to Grindei- wald (entire journey, 6-7 hrs.); or one can go (less desirable) by rly.

Meiringen to Grindelwald, 18 M. (7^ hrs. walk, or horseback ride), by the grand Reiclienhach Fall ; the Baths of Rosenlaui (hotel), near the Rosenlaui Glacier; over the Great Scheidegg pass, 6,434 ft. high; and down by the Upper Grindelwald Glacier. Grand views of Wetterhorn, Faulhorn, etc., and from the low Grindelalp. Grindelwald to Lauter- brunnen or Interlaken.

The Lake of Thun, reached by rly. from Inter- laken (Interla,ken to Thun, 4-5 times daily, in li hr.; 4 fr. 10 c), 12 X 3i M. in area, and 1,837 ft. high, has many villas and hamlets on its banks, back of which rise vast mts. As the steamer leaves

SPIEZ-BERNE 287

Darlingen, fine retrospect of the Monch, Eiger, and Schreekhorn. The Gemmi. — From S-piez(Spieze7'Jiof,lsikehai.ths; Schonegg), road into the Frutigtlial (2-^ hrs. ; also from Than) and to Kandersteg ( Victoria), liy. to Frutigen. 1-horse carriage, Spiez to Kandersteg, 18 fr. 2-horse carriage, 18 and 35 f r. From Kandersteg a bridle path leads over the Gemmi pass (7,553 ft. high), amid mag- nificent scenery, and down to the Baths of Leuk (23^ M ; guide, 7 fr. ; horse, 20 fr. ; horse to top of pass, 15 f r.) The steamer touches at Spiez, Oherhofen, etc., and backs down the Aare to ScherzUgen close to Thun {Hotel de Tliun; Bellevue; Kreuz; Krone)^ a prettily situated village, with quaint street-architec- ture; a castle built in 1182; the Federal Military School; and numerous fashionable summer hotels, Uly. to Berne, 1 hr. (3fr. 35c., 2fr. 35c., Ifr. 70c.)

Berne, Freiburg, Lausanne, Geneva.

Berne (^B enter hof Midi Bellevue, both with fine views of the Bernese Alps ; SchtoeierzJiof ; De France ; Bar; Starch; Du Jura; Bfisterri), the capital of Switzerland (68,000 inhab.), on a sandstone peninsula high over t^e Aare, has pleasant aucaded streets and mediaeval houses and fountains, and is a favorable place to rest after journeying in the Alps. See fine Gothic Cathedral (1598), with quaint carvings and famous organ ; Cathe' dral-Terrace, viewing the entire Bernese range, Wetter- horn, Finster-Aarhorn, Monch, Eiger, Jungfrau, etc., and the beautiful roseate sunset effect of the Alpen- Glow; statues of Rudolpli von Eiiach and Berthold von Zabringen; Museum (open daily, -J fr.) of natural history and antiquities; JJniversity, 400 students, and rich library ; liathhaus, bailt 1406 . Bear-Pit, witii

S88 FEEIBUKG.— LAUSANNE.

bears, maintained at the cost of the mimicipaUty \ Arsenal, and military curiosities ; Clock- Ihwer^ built in 1191, with quaint automata ; Co^m-HaU, ©ver great wine cellars; Og7'e Fountain, etc. The Fed« ®ral Buildings (open 9.30-11.30, 2-4, free) are two noble Florentine edifices (1857 and 1892). The two houses of the national legislature meet here. From roof of older building there is a famous view of the Alps and city. There are beautiful views also from the SchcinzU and the Enge, near Berne. Visit His- torical Museum [^ fr.), opened 1894, and the Kunst Museum, mostly modern paintings. From Berne by ry. in-li hr. (fares 3ifr., 2ifr., Ifr. 85c.) to

E'reiburg {Hotel du Faucoji; Suisse; Tete Noire) ^ founded (like Berne) by Berthold von Zaliringen in 1175, and standing on cliffs over the river Sarine, a nobly picturesque situation. See the Gothic Church (built 1288), in which is a renowned organ of 7,800 pipes, said to have the richest tone in the world (con. cert at dusk, summer evenings, 1 fr.) ; the 16tli-century Rathhaus, with its venerable lime-tree and stairway to the lower town ; and the Suspension Bridge, bOO ft. long and 168 ft. above the river.

The descent hence to Lausanne (42 M.) is one of the most beautiful routes in Europe. Take seat on 1, side, to see the Lake of Geneva and its picturesque ■shores. Exquisite view after emerging from the tunnel 'beyond Chexbres (the stat. for Vevay). '

Iiausanne {Riche Mont ; Beau Sejo^ir; Victoria; Beau Site; Du U-rand Pont ; Gibbon, where Gibbon wrote part of his history), with its lovely views over tlie lake, has become a favorite summer-resort and place of residence (47,000 inhab.). See Gothic Ca- thedral (Protestant), built 1235-75, where Calvin and others held a famous debate, in 1536, resulting in Prot- estantizing Vaud. It is reached by 164 steps from

GENEVA. — FERNEY. 289

the market-place ; and the plain symmetrical interior is 300 feet long. The old Episcopal Castle (now Cantonal Council-Hall) commands a broad prospect. See the two museums. From the Signal, half an hour walk out, the best view is gained.

Continue on this route, by the lovely villages of Morges, Nyon, and Coppet, to

Geneva {Grand Motel de la Paix ; desBergues} de Russie; Richemond; de V Univers; Beau Rivage; d' Angleterre ; Bellevue; National; Metropole ; de fEcu; du Pare; du Lac; de la Poste; de Paris), a city of 90,0UO inhab.. in a pretty situation at the foot of" the Lake of Geneva, and divided into two parts by the swift and rushing blue Rhone. The favorite promenade, the 3Iont-Blanc Bridge^ crosses between the lake and Rousseau's Island^ on which is a statue of Rousseau. Broad quays, lined with handsome buildings and hotels, face the river and lake. Beautiful views of Mont Blanc fiom the Quai du Mont - Blanc and the pier beyond. The Cathedral (Protestant), "the St. Peter's of the J^orth,"_is a plain 18th- century building ( 50 c. ) , containing several old monuments. Here Calvin preached. His house is close by ; and his grave is in Plain-Palais cemetery. Rousseau's birthplace was N"o. 40 Grand Rue. See Ilusee Fol, antiquities; JIusee Rath (daily, 11-3), with many paintings and casts ; Florentine Motel de Ville, with inclined planes instead of stairs; Na- tional Monument, bronze group by the lake; the University (1868-72), with large library and MSS., and famous natural history collections; Musee Ariana (I fr., free Thurs. and Sun.); and the vast monument to Duke Charles II. of Brunswick, on the Place des Alpes.

Excursions. — To Ferny, 44- M. N.W. (hourly elec- iric tram over a route rich in viev/s), where Voltaire

290 LAKE OF GENEVA. — COPPET.

founded a town, built factories, a chateau, and a cli. (inscribed Deo erexit Voltaire) ; to the imposing new Hothscliild villa, at Pregny ; to the Saleve, 4 M. S. E., a limestone mt., 4,278 ft. high, giving a panoramic view of the Mont-Blanc chain, the Jaras, and the Lake of Geneva ; to Les Voirons, another far- viewing mt. ; to the villas where dwelt Voltaire, Byron, Lola Montez. and the Empress Josephine ; to the French stronghold of Fort de VEcluse ; and to the Ferte du Rhone, where, at low water, the river vanishes in a deep caiion.

The Lake of Geneva, the Lacus Lemanus of the Komans, and Lac Leman of the Erench, is tlie largest Swiss lake, being about 50 X 9 M. (225 sq. M.) in area, and 1,230 ft. above the sea. It is in the form of a half-moon. The water is deep blue, and contains but few fish. It never freezes over, and has mysterious rises and falls, strong currents, and water-spouts. Voltaire and Rousseau, Byron and Goethe, have praised its magnificent scenery. Scores of villages line the shores, but have little commerce on the water. Capital steamboats "ply here.

The S. coast boat runs in 4|-5 hrs. (6 fr., 3 fr.) by Thonon, capital of Chablais ; and Evian {Hotel de France ; Foian ; Des Baint]), a beautiful and fashion- able French summer-resort, with fine views of Lausanne ; to Bouveret, at the end of the lake (rly. to Martigny).

The better route is along the N. shore, 4|- hrs. (7i fr., 3 fr.) from Geneva by Versoix, once a French town; Coppet {Du Lac; Du Port), whose castle was long time the home and is now the burial-place of Necker, the famous finance-minister, and his daughter, Madame de Stael ; Nyon (Du Lac; Du Jura; Ange), a lovely village, with massive 12th century castle, and a splendid view of Mont Blanc; Rolle, birthplace of La Harpe, to whom an obelisk has been raised on an

MORGES. — VEVAY. — NEUCHITEL. 291

adjacent island; Merges, with a castle once occupied by Bertha, Queen of Burgundy; Ouchy {Hotel Beau Bivage; D'Angleterre; BuCJiateau), whence rl.in 6 m, (50c., 25c.) to Lausanne; Corsier, close to the impos- ing and far-viewing Grand Hotel cle Vevay, in gardens of magnolias and rose-trees ; Vevay {Grand Hotel de Vevay ; DuPont; BuLac), a sheltered nook with semi- tropical climate, much visited by invalids and summer loiterers, and celebrated in Rousseau's Nouvelle Helo'ise; Clarens, with many villas and pe?isions, and natural beauties extolled by Byron and Rousseau ; and Mon- treux {Lorius; Beau-Lieu; Suisse), a shelter for con- sumptives ; to Viileneuve, at the end of the lake (ry. to Martigiiy, etc.). Pleasant walk thence to the famous Castle of Chillon (2 M. ; entrance, 50 c), whose dungeons and their illustrious prisoner have been im- mortalized by Byron. See Rocher de Naye, a beau- tiful mountain place above Territet, between Chillon and Montreux, at the E. end ol the Lake of G-eneva. Neuchatel (BeUevue; BuLac; Soletl; Vaisseau), 2 hrs. by rly. from Lausanne, stands on an amphitheatrical slope of tiie Jura, sloping down to the lake, and is famous for watches. Wealthy citizens have endowed it nobly. See splendid Gymnasium and Academy, museums, Library (70,000 vols.), new College, Picture- Gallery (^ fr.) of fine modern Swiss paintings, ancient Castle, and the 3 great hospitals. Agassiz was once a professor here. The Lake of Neuchatel, 24 X 5 M. in area, lies at the foot of the Juras, with level shores and deep waters. At its S. end is Yverdon {Hotel de Londres ; Baon; Faticon), where Pestalozzi conducted his school (1805-25). Steamboats run from Neuchatel to Estavayer, and into the gloomy Lake of Morat, famous in Roman and Burgundian history. To the N., 1 hr. by rly. from Berne, is Bienne, a lovely Bernese town of 8,000 inhab., neat Cliasseral mt. The LaH

293 AIGLE. — THE COL DE BALME.

of Bienne (7 M. long) contains the Peterinsel, where Rousseau took refuge when driven from Geneva (in 1765).

Chamounix and flont Blanc.

From Geneva by str. to Villeneuve, rly. thence to Martigny, and across to Chamounix. One can now go from Geneva to Chamounix entirely by rail — steam to Fayet St. Gervais, thence by electric tram. The journey takes only a few hours. France is entered at Annemasse. Dinner at Sallanches.

Fare by boat and rly., Geneva to Martigny, 13 fr. 90 c, 9 fr. 60 c, 6 fr. 90 c. Ascending the Rhone Valley from Villeneuve, the rly. passes Aigle (Grand Hotel des Bains ; Beau Site), a pleasant summer-resort; and Bex (Grand Hotel des Salines ; Bains)^ whence route to Sion, across the Col de Cheville. Beautiful views of the Dent du Midi, while nearing St. Maurice (Hotel du Simplon; des Alpes). This is a very old town with a 4tli century abbey, enshrining rare curiosities; a stalactite grotto; and picturesque fortifications. Be- yond Evionnaz Stat, see the Pissevache fall (200 ft.) on the r. This is best visited from Vernayaz (Hotel des Oorges; Des Alpes), which is also very near the cele- brated Gorge du Trient. Martigny (H. Glerc; De la Gare; National; Mt. Blanc; St. Bernard) is starting |)oint of the routes over the Simplon (to Lake Maggiore) and the Great St. Bernard (to Aosta), and over the passes to Chamounix. You can visit Chamounix ; ascend to the top of the St. Bernard ; return to Mar- tigny ; and go thence over the Simplon.

The Col de Balme. — Martigny to Chamounix, 9-10 hrs. ; mule and attendant, 24 fr. and gratuity <2 mules, 36 fr.). Carriage-road as far as Trient; where lunch is taken. Grand view of the Mont-Blanc

CHAMOUNIX. — MONT BLANC. 293

group. Path in 2 hrs. to Col de Balms {Hotel Suisse), 7,231 ft. high, the boundary between Swiss Valais and French Savoy, with amazing prospect of mts. Descend the Arve valley thence to Tour and Argentiere {Bellevue) ; whence road (1-horse carriage, 5 f r. , and 1 f r. to driver) to

Chamounix(/m^eVmZ; Cacliat et du Mont Blanc; d^Anghterre; Couttet et du Pare; Royal et de Saus- sure; Savoy) , in Arve valley, 3,445 ft. high, at foot of Mt. Blanc, has 15-20,000 visitors yearly, and is one of the chief centres for Alpine tourists. Rooms should be secured in advance. The whole valley is worthy of study, and has scores of points of interest. Tariffs for guides and mules (strictly observed) may be obtained at chief guide's office. In a day you may ascend the Montanvert (easy bridle-path, 2^ hrs.), where Tyn- dall studied glacier movement ; cross the wonderful Mer de Glace to the rocky cliffs of the Chapeau (path ia the ice, l^hrs.), where there is an inn; descend to hes Praz ; chmb thence to La Flegere (path in 2| hrs. ; inn on summit, 6,260 ft. high), whence magnificent view of the vast snowy Mont Blanc, Aiguille Vert, Mer de Glace, etc. ; and return to Chamounix. On the descent to Les Praz, you may visit the source of the Arveiron. The Jardin is among the rocks on the Glacier de Talefre, where Alpine flowers bloom in August. The Brevent, one of the Aiguilles Rouges, 8,284 ft. high, commanding the best view of Mont Blanc, mav be climbed by path in 4 hrs.

Mont Blanc, the highest of the Alps (15,781 ft.), the boundary between France and Italy, was first ascended in 1786. Many parties now ascend yearly (3-4 persons, 100 fr. each, for guides, etc.). Many valuable lives have been lost here, but in fine weather and with duo caution there is little danger. First day's

294 ST. BERNARD PASS.

climb to stone Imts on Grands Mulets (10,007 f c.) ; second, to summit and back ; third, from Grands Mulets to Chamounix.

, The Tete-Noire affords a good route from Chamou- nix to Martigny (9-10 hrs.) One can now go by electric tram to Argentiere; across the Col des Montets ; near the Foyaz and Barberine Cascades ; through Valor chie village and Le Chatelard ; through the rockj Tete-Noire pass ; and down through Trient to Martigny.

The St. Bernard and Simplon Passes. — Zermatt.

Martigny to the Hospice, ll^^hrs., a very interesting journey. Start at morn (2-horse carriage, 45 fr. and gratuity) ; or pass night at Orsieres, ascend to Hospice to breakfast, and return to Martigny afternoon. Daily diligence to Bourg St. Pierre. The road ascends the Dranse valley to Orsieres {Hotel des Alpes) ; climbs steeply 5 M. to Liddes {Angleterre ; Union'), whence mule and guide to Hospice, 8-9 fr. ; by Bourg St. Pierre {Au Dejeuner de Napoleon') and Cantine de Proz, the end of the road. 7 M. distant, through the Defile de Marengo, at the top of the pass, is St. Bernard Hospice, 8,120 ft. above the sea, occupied since 962 by French Augustinian monks, who give free hospi- tality to all travellers. 20,000 peasants are fed here every year ; and in summer many tourists come. No charge is made for food, etc., but well-to-do travellers put money in the poor-box of the ch. The convent, very rich in the Middle Ages, is now poor. Its pro- visions are brought from Italy. See Napoleon's monu- ment to Dessaix, in the chapel ; the great library ; the Mor<yue' and the noble dogs. The pass has been

ZERMATT. — SIMPLON PASS. 295

crossed by vast armies of Romans, Lombards, Franks, and Germans ; and in 1799 heavy iigliting occurred liere between the Austrians and Napoleon's troops.

It is 6 lirs. hence to Aosta, in Italy.

Zermatt ( Victoria; Mo7if-Cervin; 3Io7it-Ro8e) is approached from Martigny by railway, passing through "Vispach. The "traveller will lind this a characteristic Alpine route, among gorges, cascades, and rocky peaks, with vast mountains in advance. The village is the highest in Europe (5,215 feet), con- tinuously inhabited, and is in the very heart of the Alps, in a glen invaded by 3 glaciers and overtopped by the Matterhorn, Monte Rosa, and other vast peaks. Its ch.-yard has graves of several famous men who lost their lives on these rats. The Riffeiberg (with hotel) i"^ 3 hrs. distant, by bridle-path ; and \.\ hr. beyond is thp rocky crest of Gorner G-rat, 10,290 ft. high, with su perb view of Monte Rosa's rocky pyramids (16,132 ft.), on the S. E. ; the black Breithorn (13,685 ft.), on thr S. ; the craggy Matterhorn (14,705 ft.), on the W. / the Dent Blanche, Gabelhorn, Morning, the Mischabe), and the Allaleinhorn, in the N. Gornergrat elec. ry. now completed. From Zermatt visit the Gorner Glacier (12 M. long), which is larger than tlie Mer de Glace ; tlie Findelen Glacier ; and to the Cima di Jazi (12,526 ft.), by the Riffeiberg. The 8t. Theodule Pass leads to Aosta. Monte Rosa (15,217 ft.) offers a safe, but fatiguing climb (up and back, 12-14 hrs.). The fatal Matterhorn is ascended by several parties yearly (a severe 2-days' trip).

The Simplon. — Rly. Marti2:ny to Briear in 24- hrs, (8fr. 20, 5fr. 80, 4fr. 10), by Saxon-les-Bains {Grand Motel des Bains; de la Pierre-d-Yoir), with iodated raters, good for skin diseases; beautiful Sion(^. du Hidi; Poste), with old castles, Gothic cathedral, 2 fine

296 SIMPLON PASS.

old chs., and 6,000 inhab. ; mediseval Bieiie {Be llevue), with the . chateaux of the Valais nobles ; Leuk, a few miles from the Baths of Leuk (Hotel des Alpes ; Bellevue ; I)e France'), and at the foot of the Gem mi Pass ; and Visp (rouve to Zennatt) . Prom the end of the rly., at Brieg (Hotel d' Angleterre') , diligences cross the Simplon Pass in 9-10 hrs. (39 M. ; fares, 16 fr. 55 c. ; coupe, 19 fr. 65 c), to Domo d' Ossola. Napoleon built this great road, in 1801-6, at a cost of $3,600,000, for a military route into Italy. There are numerous houses of refuge where the road nears the glaciers. The crest of the pass is 6,594 ft. high, in an open val- ley among glaciers. Beyond, near Monte Leone, is the Hospice, whose monks are hospitable to all comers. Magnificent mt.-scenery on upper reaches of pass. The road descends 5| M. to Simplon (Paste'), and through the Gondo Ravine. \ M. beyond the hamlet of Gondo it enters Italy, and passes down, b^ several villages, through wild and picturesque gorges, by the Crevola Gallery, and over the lofty Doveri& Bridge, to Tiomo A' Ossola., (See page 398.) Now, however, the opening of the Simplon tunnel has made possible an all rail route from France to Italy, reducing the length of the jourjiey by several hours, and at the same time depriving it of much of its pic- turesqueness. The tunnel extends from Brieg to Iselle, a distance of a little over 13 miles.

ROUTES INTO ITALY. 297

ITALY.

npHE money of Italy is reckoned in lire and cen- tesimi, which correspond to francs and cen- times. The paper money consists of notes of 5, 10 and 25 lire. Beware of counterfeits ; also of talking large bank notes in one city which may not be good 111 another. See Chapter on Travel, for general ob- servations on Italy. Many complaints have been made of thefts from baggage on the Italian railways. It is well, therefore, not to carry valuable jewelry, or money, in trunks.

Routes into Italy.

1. Paris to Turin, hy Mt. Cenis, 496f M. ; 16 (express) to 27 hrs. ; fares, 91 fr. 10 c, 62 fr. 55 c, 40 fr. 15 c. Route leads through Fontainebleau, Ton- nerre, Montbard(BufFon's home), Dijon, Macon, Culoz, Chambery, and Modane (frontier stat. ; change cars). The Mt.-Ceni3 Tunnel, 8 M. long, was built 1861- 71, at a cost of l|15,000,000. Trains for Italy run through it in 45 miii. ; trains for Eraiice, in 25 min.

2. Paris to Genoa, hij Marseilles and Nice,^^^\ M. ; fares, 155 fr. 90 c.', 105 fr. 35 c, 84 fr. 30 c. Rly. from Genoa via Alessandria, to Turin ; or from Savona^ W. of Genoa, to Turin (5^ hrs.).

3. Geneva to Milan, by the Simplon, see p. 295.

4. Lucerne to Milan, by the St. Gothard (see p. 280), through Eliielen, Airolo, and Belliuzoua, and tlience rly. by Como. Or rly. through from Lucerne to Milaa (fare, 36 fr. 70 c).

298 LAKE MAGGIORB.

5. Coire to Milan, by the Spliigen, to Chiavenna and Colico, wlience steamer to Como, and rly. to Milan. Or by Bernardino Pass, Coire to Bellinzona, whence rly. Or by Julier and Bernina Passes, Coire to Sama- den, Tirano, and Colico, whence steamer to Como.^ and rly. to Milan,

6. Basle to Milan, by the Stelvio. Uly. to Con- stance and Bludenz ; diligence to Laiideck, Nanders, Bormio, and Colico; steamer and rly. to Milan.

7. Munich to Verona, by Brenner Pass, see p. 264.

8. Vienna to Venice, by tlie Semniering, all rly., by Bruch and Villach, through magnificent scenery. Leave Vienna at 7 a.m. ; reach Venice, 11 p.m. Or rly. from Vienna to Trieste, and steamer thence to Venice.

The Tour of the Italian Lakes.

Domo d' Ossola (^Grand H6tel.de la Ville i B'Es. pagne) is a pretty southern village, with a charming view from the Calvary, -J hr. distant. Eailway to Novara (55 M.; 3^ hrs.; 10 1. 30 c, 7 1. 15 c, 4 1. 60 c.) passing the ruined castle of Vogogna ; Ornaoasso, with a castle of the Visconti, and the quarries whence Milan Cathedral was hewn ; Gramllona ; through the valley of the Strona to Omegna at the N. end of the Lake of Orta. Thence along the shore of the lake, beautifnl views, to Oozzano ; through the valley of the Agogna to Novara, whence Milan can be reached by rly. in 1^ hr. Diligence from Gravellona to Pallanza, on Lake Maggiore (6 M.; 1 hr.; 1 1., outside, 1| 1.) ; to Stresa m M. ; 1 hr. ; 1 1. 20 c. ; 11. 80c.). It is wise to make a tour of the lakes (1-2 days) before going to Milan.

Lake Maggiore, 37x4^ M. in area, and of vast depth, is very beautiful, with the rich plains and vine- yards on the S., and the great mts. on the N. There are marble and granite quarries on its shores, and ri^l

fiaaiij

Leaie

ARONA.—BOKKOME AN ISLANDS. 299

(nines. Arona {Alhergo Reale e Posta), on the S., is an old town, with rare paintings in its ch. On the hill is a copper and bronze statue, 70 ft. high, of St. Charles Borromeo (1697), the famous Cardinal-Arch- bishop of Milan, who died in 1584. The head will hold 3 persons (ladders ascend to it, inside). Steamer f ronj Arona to Locarno (4 1. 80 c, 2 1. 65 c). It calls aj Stresa {Hotel ties lies Borromees ; M'ilan\ with ita fine monastery and cypress-trees; and Baveno {Grand Jlotel BeUevue; Beau Rivage; Simplon). The shores are Ihied with villas ; and in the N. glimmer the Alps, Monte Rosa, St. Gothard, etc. The beautiful Borro- mean Islands are touched at (see Jean Paul Ricbter's description). Isola Bella {Hotel chi Dcmphin) has the great palace of the Borromeo family (open daily; 11.), rising over 10 terraces of gardens, rich in flowers and fountains, Isola M'adre has an empty palace, above 7 terraces, laden with orange and lemon trees, cedars, and cypresses. Boat with 2 men, from Baveno, 5 1. first hr., 1 1. others. Arona to Isola Bella, by steamer, 1^ 1., 90 c. ; fare thence, by Fariolo, Intra, and Laveno, II. 85 c., 11. 15 c., to Luino. Opposite is CannerOj among the vineyards, with ancient brigands' castles off- shore. Lovely villages appear on either coast. The steamer keeps on N. to Locarno {Grand Hotel Locarno; Reher; dio Pare), in the Swiss Canton of Ticino, to which the upper part of the lake belongs. See ch., with good pictures; Cantonal buildings ; and Ch. of Madonna del Sasso, on the hill, visited by myriads of pilgrims. Rly. hence to Belhuzona, whence diligence over the Spliigen. Return by boat (21. 10 c, 11 20 c.) to

Luino {Hotel du Simplon ; Pasta ; Vittona), a fa= vorite summer-resort, with the Crivelli Palace and Garibaldi's statue. Steam tramway (1 h.; 2 1. 600., 1 1.

300 LAKE LUGANO - LAKE COMO

45c.) to Ponte Tresa, thence ptearaboat (50 min., 41. 50c., 2 1. 70c.) to Lua:ano {Hotel da Pare; Grand; Splendide; Bellevue; Sletropole; St. Gottharcl; Berna; Bristol; Svizzera)^ a Swiss cantonal capital, in- habited by Italians, amid exquisite scenery and ricft villas. See S. Lorenzo Ch.; St a. Maria, with Luini's frescos ; Wm. Tell's statue ; and old convents and palaces. Excursion to Mt. B. Salvadore (2,983 ft. high) in 3 hrs. (guide and horse, 7 !.)• View of Alps.

Lake Lugano is a series of deep, sinuous gulfs among the nits., 14 M. long and 3 M. wide, Swiss on one side, Italian on the other, in a climate of perpetual spring, and amid very lovely scenery. The adjacent peaks overlook the Lombard plain, down to Milan. Steamer from Lugano (2|1., 11.), by Osteno, near a remarkable grotto, to Porlezza, a quaint village in an amphitlieatre of hills; or S., to Capolago, vs^bence rail- way to Como, Steam tramway (about 9 M. ; 1 hr. ; 2 1. 65 c, 1 1. 45c.) from Porlezza,' by Piano and Croce, and through a rich country, with Lake Como below and the Alps in sight from the Spliigen to the Ortler Spitz, to Menaggio {Menaggio, Vittoria, Corona), on Lake Como. Tliis is a good point for excursions • and on the hill is the Filla Vigoni, with fine sculptures.

Lake Como, the Lacus Larius of the Romans, is shaped like the letter Y, and is 33 M. long, 2-3 M. wide, and 1,800 ft. deep. It is one of the lovehest lakes in the world, and its natural charms of mts., vineyards, and forests are heightened by the white Italian hamlets and the splendid villas of Milanese families. Cross to "BeWsL^^io {Grande Bretagne ; Bellaggio ; Genazzini ; Villa Serbelloni ; Florence; Suisse'), a favorite Anglo- American resort The Villa Melzi (1 1.) has splendid sculptures (by Canova) and frescos, and a famous garden From Villa Serbelloni, best view on the

COMO. — LAKE or GAEDA. 301

lake. Across the lake is Cadennabbia {BelUdue ; Belle He; Britannia), near the celebrated Villa Car- lotta (fee 1 1.), rich in finest sculptures of Canova and Thorwaldsen. Steamer from Bellagsrio to Golico, whence rly. (17 M.; 31. 10 c. 2 1. 15 c, 1 1. 40 c.) to Chiavenna, and diligence over the Splligen (12 hrs.; g2 1., outside 26 1. 65 c.) to Coire (see p. 278). Eeturn thence to Colico and take steamer (3|^-5 hrs. ; 4 1, 70 c. , 2 1. 60 c.) through the lake, noting castles of Musso and many beautiful hamlets, to Como {Hotel Vol' ta ; Italia; Plinius), a place of 25,000 inhab., with statues of its emment natives, the elder and the younger Pliny, and Yolta, the electrician. See marble Lombard-Gothic Cathedral (1396), with fine paintings (by Guide, Veronese, etc.) and sculptures, and vivid coloring ; Ch. of Crocefisso, richly adorned ; basilica of S. Abbondio, 1 M. out ; ancient Porta del Torre; and handsome old Broletto, or town-hall. Steamers run from Beilaggio down the picturesque Lake of Lecco, an arm of Como, to Lecco, at the foot of the high Rese- gone peaks (rly. to Milan).

Como to Milan, 30 M. ; If hrs. (5^ l, 3 1. 85 c, 21 1.).

The Lake of Orta, 9 X I2 M. in area, is charm- ingly situated among the Piedmontese hills. Omnibus (2|1.) from Arena to Orta {S. Giulio; Orta; Bel- vedere), a marble-paved hamlet on a promontory, near the Sacro Monte, a height dotted with chapels, and looking up on Monte Rosa. — The Lake of Iseo is 15 X H M. in area, winding, in S shape, among groves of mulberries and figs- and gardens of roses and camel- lias. Railway from Brescia (15 M. ; 1 J hr. : 2 1. 75 c, 1 1. 90 c, 1 1. 25,c.) to Iseo {Hotel Leone), whence steamer to beautiful Sarnico and Lovers.— l^he great Lake of Garda, 37 X 10 M. in area, 1,000 ft. deep, with clear blue waters, abounding in fish, and very picturesque shores, is traversed by steamboats, running from Des- enzano (the home of Catullus) or Peschiera (near the

302 MILAN.

battle-field of Solferino), on the Milan-Yerona rail* way, to Riva {Hotel Lido), a beautiful village at the N. end.

The North = Italian Cities

Milan (Hotel de la Yille; Cavour ; Milan ; Oran Bretagna, all expensive; Victoria; JEuropa; Manin; Roma; Venezia) is a beautiful and enterprising city (490,000 inhab.), 9 M, around, in the centre of the rich Lombard plain. It was founded 400 b. c. ; a capital in the 3d-century; sacked by Attila in 452; a Lombard city in 568 ; annexed by Charlemagne; destroyed by Frederick Barbarossa in 1162; rebuilt by the Lombard League ; governed by the Visconti and Sforza families, 1312-1545; conquered by Francis L, in 1515; annexed by Charles V. soon after, and Spanish till 1714; capital of Italy, 1805-14; an Aus- trian garrison, 1814-59 ; and since then Italian. Man- zoni was born here ; also 5 popes ; and Virgil studied here.

The magnificent Gothic Cathedral, second only to St. Peter's and Seville Cathedrals in size, was built 1386-1500. It is cruciform, with double aisles and transept-aisles, separated by 52 pillars, each 12 ft. in diameter, with niches crowded with statues. Interior 477 ft. long, 183 ft. wide, and 155 ft. high. It con- tains 6,000 statues, a pavement of marble mosaic, vast granite monoliths, superb stained windows, many tombs of magnates, St. Carlo Borromeo's wooden cru- cifix and gorgeous tomb, and life-size silver statues of saints (in the Treasury)o The wonderful marble roof (entered from r. transept, 5 A. m, till dusk, 25 Co), with ninety -eight Grothic turrets, hundreds of pinnacles, and over two thousands life-size marble statues ■ — some by Canova, — ■ should be carefully studied (2-3 hrs.) Ascend (at early morn) to,, the

MILAN. 303

upper gallery of the tower (494 steps), which is 360 ft. high, and view the Lombard plain, Apennines, snd Alps(Mt. Cenis, Blanc, St. Bernard, Kosa, Mat- terhorn, Mischabel, Leone, St. Gothard, Spltlgen, Ortler, Spitz, etc.). Watchman here, with tele« scope.

Cross Cathedral Sq., and enter the Victor-Emmanu^ Gallery, the finest arcade in the world; built in 1865-7 .It a cost of $1,600,000 ; 960 ft. long, 48 wide, 94 high, 4turrounded by handsome shops; richly frescoed ; and idorned with statues of Raphael, Galileo, Dante, Cavour, and 20 other famous Italians. The octagon under the dome (180 ft. higli) is brilliantly lighted at iiight, when it forms a favorite promenade. On the adjacent Piazza della Scala, see Leonardo da Vinci's monument (1872), the massive Municipal Palace (1555), and the great La Scala Theatre, with 8,600 sittings (1 1. to see building ; famous ballets here, ia season). Near by is the Jesuit ch. of San Fedele (1569). The Brera, once a Jesuit college (1675), is a great palace built around a quadrangle adorned with statues; and contains a library of 300,000 vols.; a celebrated gallery (open daily, 9-4, 1 1. ; free on Sunday) of 400 paintings and sculptures (get catalogue) .

The Piazza de'Armi, N.W. of Milan, has the Arena built by Napoleon I., and holding 30,000 spectators ; the Castle of the Sforzas, built 1358 ; and the great triumphal marble Arch, ending the Simplon route, founded by Napoleon (1804) to record his victories, and finished by Austria (1830), with reliefs showing the victories over France. Grand statues on summit. The Corso Vittorio Emanuele is the chief business street, and contains S. Carlo Bovroineo (a copy of the Homan Pantheon), and several palaces. See Piazza dei Mercanti, with Exchange and 13th-century palace of the Podesta; Piazza Beccaria, with statue of Becc&na;

304 LA CERTOSA.

and the Roman, Garibaldi, and Tosa Gates. S. Am'^ brogio, founded by St. Ambrose (4tli century), is a Komanesque cli., rich in monuments of ancient Chris- tianity, 8th-centiiry reliefs, 9th-century mosaics, Stili- cho's sarcophagus, the brazen serpent of Moses. Here Augustine embraced Christianity ; Ambrose closed the gates against the Emperor Theodosius ; and the Lom- bard and German sovereigns received the Iron Crown. In the refectory (1 1.), near the rich old abbey-ch. of S. Maria delle Grazie, are the remains of Leonardo da Yinci's grand fresco of The Last Supper. See the 4th- century octagonal /S*. Lorenzo, and its colonnade ; S. Maria di S. Celso, with remarkable paintings, sculptures, and atrium ; S. Maurizio, with Luini's frescos. The Am- brosian Library (open 10-3, if r.), founded (1609) bys Cardinal Borromeo, has 175.000 vols., 15,000 MSS., many literary curiosities and several hundred paint- ings. The Civic Museum (i fr.) has large natural- history collections. The Castello Sforzesco, restored 1893, contains the Municipal Art and Archasological Museum (adm. Ifr., Thu. ifr., Sun. 20 c). See the Ospedale Maggiore (1457), a vast hospital with 9 courts; Military Hospital; Manzoni's house; palaces of Borromeo, Litta, Omoneni, Trivulzio and Ciani families; Cemetery, with cremation-temple; Public {gardens, -where Exhibition of 1881 was held; Archbish- op's Palace, near Cathedral, with fine court (1565); and Hoyal Palace, adjacent, with huge Napoleonic frescos. La Certosa (1 hr. by rly.; 31. 20 c, 2 1. 25 c, 1 1. 60 c), in a fertile and populous plain, "was one of the most sumptuous monasteries in the world, and be- longed to the Carthusians. It was founded in 1396 by the Visconti; and here Francis I. was a, prisoner in 1525. The ch., with 14 columns, a high dome, mosaic floor, monuments, and frescos, is crowded with precious things. The rich Renaissance fapade (1473) is in

PAVIA.— ALESSANDRIA.-TURIN. 305

colored marbles, with delicate carvings. Grand clois- ters, with slender marble pillars and monks' houses.

Pavia {Croce Bianca; Hotel Tre Re) is a little waj S. (fares from Milan, 41. 10 c, 21. 85 c., 2 1. 10 c). See unfinished Cathedral, facade and dome built 1898; Promenade, along Ticino fliver; University, the old- est in Europe; old Romanesque Cli. of St. Michele^ with Giottesque frescos, colossal statue of Ghislierij towers on the walls; and Castle, built 1630.

Pavia to Ureiuoua and Brescia, 141. 5 c, 91. 85 c, 71. 5 c.; to Piacenza, 61. 85 c., 41. 80 c., 31. 45 c. Erom La Certosa the fares are 71. 40 c., 51. 20 c., 31. 75 c, to Alessandria i^lily. Restaurant ; Europa^ Londra), a huge fortress (73,000 inhab.), whose ap- proaches can l)e flooded in wartime. Citadel built, 1728, by Victor Amadeo II. Hence in 2i-3 hrs- (10 1. 20 c., 71. 30 c., 51. 15 c.) to

Turin (Be la Ville, de Turin, d' Europe, Fiorina, Central, de France, Roma e Rocca Cavour), prosper- ous city of 350,000 inh., on the plain of the Po, near the Graian Alps. It was destroyed by Haiinibal (218 B.C.) and Alaric ; was a Roman colony ; a bishopric under Cliarlemague ; capital of Savoy and Sardinia, and of Italy (1859-65). It is laid out with Pliiladelphiau regularity, and surrounded by umbrageous promenades, on site of old walls. Tlie Palazzo Madama is a huge mediaeval pile, centrally situated ; and once the Senate- house of Italy. Across the Piazza Castello is the Moyal Palace, a ponderous old brick building (usually open), richly furnished, and with fine statuary, library (60,000 vols. ; open 9-4), and armory (daily, 11-3), with Roman, French and Austrian standards, Cellini's metal-work, weapons, armor, etc. The hand- some and busy Via di Po, with arcades, runs thence to the Po bridge. The Palace of the Duke of Genoa

306 TURIN.-NOVARA.

is connected with that of the King. The Royal Oar- dens open 11-5 Sundays and holidays, (music at 1). In the Palazzo delV Accademia are collections in natural history, sculptures, Egyptian antiquities, a library of 40,000 vols., and a gallery (open daily ; get catalogue) of 600 pictures, many of them of great interest. The Cathedral (1498) contains the Cappella del SS. Sudario, a high-domed round chapel of brown marble, where the sovereigns of Savoy are buried. La Consolata ch. contains a revered image of the Virgin. The palaces and arcades of the Piazza dello Statute were erected by an English company, and surround a memorial of the Erejus Tunnel. There are' many fine statues and groups in the squares, honoring Italian notables. The, University, a vast Renaissance palace, has 1,500 stu-' dents, and a library of 200,000 volumes. See Albertina Academy of Pine Arts (open daily) ; Municipal Museum; Mouse of Tasso ; house where Cavour died; Royal ^Theatre; Ch. of Gran Madre di Dio; Monumerits of ■Cavour, Victor Emanuel and Philihert; the great Carignano Palace; the favorite Public Garden, with •chateau of 11 Valentino; handsome granite bridge; Arsenal; Citadel; Corpus Domini ch., richly dec- orated; S. Rocco; S. Andrea; Waldensian Temple; ■Capuchin Monastery and the curious Mole AntonelU- ana. The Cemetery, 1^ M. N. E., has tombs of Silvio Pellico, Massimo d'Azeglio, Glioberti, etc. La Su- perga, on a hill E. of Turin, viewing city and Alps (Monte Rosa), is a splendid ch., built in 1717, with the tombs of Sardinian kings. The Valleys of the \ Waldenses are 30-40 M. S. W. of Turin.

Prom Turin you may go to Milan (17 1., 11 1. 90 c, 8 1. 55 c.) by Novara {Sempione; Italia), a large Piedmontese market-town, where Peter Lombard was born in 1100. The 4th century Cathedral has columns of an older pagan temple.

BERGAMO. — BRESCIA. 307

Turin to Yenice, 257 M. ; 10|- lirs., express; fares, 471. 10 c., 331. 5 c., 231. 65 c. Milan to Bergamo (39 M.; 2 hrs.), 51. 90 c., 41. 15 c., 21. 95 c.; to Brescia, 11|^1., 81. 5 c., 51. 75 c.; to Verona, 181. 30 c.; to Venice, 311. 80 c, 221. 80 c., 161. 30 c. Take morning train. ITine scenery and interesting^' cities. Bergamo (Italicc) is a prosperous fortified provincial and episcopal capital (48,000 inliab.). Aris.. tocratic and governmental Old Town, on hill, with Cas- tle above it ; commercial New Town below. About the Piazza Garibaldi, Cathedral, splendid Colleoni Chapel, Municipal Palace, and quaint old Gothic Broletto pal- ace. See very interesting Ch. of Sla. Maria Maggiore (1173), containing tomb of Donizetti; Accademia Carrara, with over 200 ancient paintings ; vast build- ings, with 600 shops, for annual Pair (Aug. 15-Sept. 15). Excursions to Fals Brembana and Seriana, and Lake of Iseo.

Brescia (JL?5er^o d' Italia; Gambero; Brescia) makes famous arms, silks, cloths (70,000 iuhab.); was a Gaulish town ; a Roman colony ; Milan's rival in the 16th century; sacked by Gaston de Foix in 1512; a Venetian garrison, 1517-1797 ; bombarded by Aus- trians in 1849. Beautifully situated at foot of the Alps, surrounded by walls and overlooked by a castle. The Cathedral (built 1604-1825) is of marble, with vast dome. Near by is La Botonda, the old cathedral (9th century), round, with dome and crypt. See chs. of S. Afra, S. Clemente, and S. Nazzaro e Celso, rich in pictures ; Galleria Tosio (open 11-3), 13 rooms full of notable ^omtin^s ', Biblioteca ^werm^aria (open 11-3), i0,000 vols., and rare literary curiosities,- Wuseo Patrio (11-3 daily), Roman relics, in a tempie built j)y Vespasian, a.d. 72 ; 12th century Broletto and cam- panile; handsome Palazzo Comunale (15083, riclily

308 SOLFERINO.-VERONA.

carved; Mediceval Museum in two old church Lake of Garda, see page 801.

The rly. to Venice passes Desenzano, whence 4 1. by carriage to Solferino, where a chapel contains bones of 7,000 soldiers slain in the battle (1859) ; runs along S. shore of Lake of Garda, with lovely views; through the fortress of Peschiera ; to thriving

Verona {Colomba d'Oro ; Gran Hotel di Lon- dra), on the edge of the Tyrol, on a rich plain (78,000 inhab.). First a Gaulish town, 350 B.C.; then a Roman fortress ; capital of the Gothic empire ; one of Charlemagne's chief towns; a republic; capital of the Scaligers ; Venetian appanage for 300 years ; Aus- trian garrison (1797-1866) ; and Italian city. There are 5 bridges over the rapid Adige. Verona is sur- rounded with formidable bastioned walls and detached castles, built by Austria and lately strengthened by Italy. Give a day to its wonderful memorials of Romans, Goths, Lombards, and Carloviugians ; chs. of rare interest ; and venerable palaces. The Cathedral is a stately 14tli-century Gothic ch., with cloisters on red-marble columns. Huge pillars inside. Near by h the old 12th-century Baxdistery ; also, Bishop's Falace, with colossal statue in courtyard, and library. The Piazza delle Erbe, or fruit-market, is a remarkably picturesque square, once the forum of the Republic, sur- rounded with frescoed palaces, and containing a tall marble pillar where once stood the lion of Venice, the quaint Trihuna (or judgment-seat), !;he Munici^io Tower (330 ft. high), and fountain with statue of Verona. The adjacent Piazza del Signon, with impos. ing Municipio palace (1183), picturesque court; La Loggia, or Palazzo del Consiglio (1500), with statues of Catullus, Cornelius Nepos, Pliny, Vitruvius, Macer, all natives of Verona ; and statue of Dante. Near the

I

VERONA. 309

Ch. of Sta. Maria Antica are the very curious and splendid Gothic Tombs of the Scaliger family, who ruled Verona 1262-1389. 6. Anastasia (1261) is an interesting Gothic church, with noble interior. The Arena, on one side the Piazza Vittorio Emanuele (formerly Bra), is a well-preserved Roman Amphi- theatre, built by Diocletian or Trajan, and covered with earth and houses in the Middle Ages. The 73 arcades are leased to shop-keepers. It is oval, 1,584 feet around and 106 feet high, with 45 tiers, and can accommodate 95,000 spectators. The Porta de Bor- sari, a triumphal arch built by the Emperor Gallie- nus (a.d. 265), is on the Corso Cavour. See also two arches of Roman bridge ; an arch near old citadel; and the Arch of the Lions.

S. Zenone, in N.-W. quarter, founded by Pepin (who was buried there), is the finest mediaeval church with rich marble facade ; very curious sculptures of "Wheel of Fortune, etc. ; portal (1178) resting on red- marble lions ; doors with brazen reliefs ; a grandiose interior, with alternate pillars and columns; tomb and statue of S. Zeno ; and grand 12th-century clois- ters. Near by, through cloisters of S. Bernardino, is Sammicheli's beautiful Capella dei Pellegrini. Sam- micheli also built the handsome Stuppa Gate (end of Corso), towards the Castle, now an arsenal, once the palace of the Scaligers. The so-called Tomh of Juliet is a red- marble sarcophagus, much visited by young ladies. See S. Fermo 3Iaggiore, rich 14th-century Gothic ch. with walnut ceilings. Palazzo Bevilacqua, fagade by Saramicheli. Academia delle Belle Arte (1 1.), in imposing Palazzo Pompei, with hundreds of fine old Veronese paintings, Roman antiques, etc. Griusti Garden (50 c. ) , with cypresses 500 years old, and commanding views of the Alps and Apennines ; Cemetery, surrounded by Doric colonnade; ini the great Castello S. Pietro,

510 ROVEEEDO. — MANTUA. — CREMONA.

Excursion to Trent, very interesting, and thence down to Vicenza, by Roveredo (9,000 iuhab.), where Dante lived in exile. Verbua to Munich by the Bren- ner, 63f l, 47 1. 55 c, 22 1. 15 c. (see p. 265).

From Verona, you can visit Mantua (fares, 4 1. 60 c, 3 1. 20 c, 21. 30 c.) and Modena (fares, 11 1. 85 c, 8 1., 5f 1.), passing Villafranca, where peace was made be- tween Trance and Austria in 1859. Mantua {Aquila d'Oro; Senoner) is a dull old fortress (30,000 inhab.), among lakes and marshes. Here Virgil (born 3 M. S. E.) lived, and Mantegna and GiuHo Romano were born. See S. Andrea (1472), a vast ch. with many monuments and frescos; Museo Civico in the Pal- azzo degli Studii ; spacious Cathedral; old Ducal Pal- ace (1302), richly frescoed by Mantegna and Romano: Accademia Virgiliana, with museum of sculpture (grand view of Tyrolese Alps from square) ; and Palazzo del Te, a huge palace outside the Forta Pmterla, erected by Romano, and adorned with bis greatest frescos.

From Milan to Mantua direct, in 6 hrs. (fares, 18 1. 20 c., 12f 1., 9 1. 20 c), by Cremona {Capello ed Italifi), on the Po (36,000 inhab.), successively Gaul- ish, Roman, Gothic, Lombard, Austrian, and Italian, and famous for its violins, and now a dull town of wide streets and decaying palaces. See pictures in Public and Royal Palaces (9-3 daily) ; German-Lombard Cathedral, with rich fapade and interior crowded with frescos ; Torrazzo (1261-84), a tower 397 ft. high, with arcades to Cathedral; and nobles' palaces.

Piacenza {Italia ; Ban Marco) may be reached bence by tramway ; or by rly. from Milan (7 1. 80 c, 51 1., 3 1. 90 c; rly. from Milan to Bologna, 241. 45 c., 17 1. 15 c, 12i 1.). This town (35,000 inhab.) was founded by the Romans, b. c. 219. See 13th- century Palazzo del Comune, with fine arca.de?.

VICENZA. — PADUA. 311

and equestrian statues of the Earnese princes ; 12th* century Romanesque Cathedral, frescoed by Guercino and Caracci; S. Francesco {127 S), and Romaguosi's statue ; S. Sisto (1499-1511), for which Raphael painted his noblest Madonna (now at Dresden) ; Palazzo Faniese, built by Vigiiolaiu 1558 ; Citadel (1547) ; and 8. Antonino, quaint vestibule.

Rapid tourists will hasteii from Verona to Venice direct, passing through- Vicenza (T^re (Trtro/a?^^; Roma J Gran Farigi), a busy town of 44,000 inh., sur- rounded with walls and moats, and richly adorned with buildings designed by the great Palladio, a native of Vicenza (1518-80), among which are Gasa del Diavolo ; Palazzo Prefettlzio, Teatro Olimpico (^1.), etc. Also Basilica, or Palazzo del Consiglio, grand open arcades around town-hall; Barbarano, Tiene, and Valmarano palaces; and Palazzo Chieregati, in which is Civio Museum (9-5 daily), with many paintings, etc. See Palazzo della Ragione, very rich Gothic ; Greal Tower (1446) ; palaces around Piazza de' Signori ; quaint old bridge, rivalling the Rialto ; duU Gothic Calhedral ; S. Corona, with priceless pictures ; S. Lorenzo ; BertO' liana Library, with rare MSS. ; and Roman Berga Theatre. On Mt. Berici, pilgrimage-ch. of Madonna del Monte (1428), approached by arcade of 180 pillars (2,145 ft. loag). \\ M. out is Villa Rotonda, Palladio's work, surrounded by Ionic colonnades.

Padua {Stella d'Oro; Groce d'Oro), a university town between Vicenza and Venice, has 80,000 inhab., and stands on a rich plain, embowered in gardens. From a distance its domes and towers and old bastioned walls and bastions present a noble appearance ; but within it appears almost deserted. Its foundation is attributed to Antenor, after the siege of Troy ; and in th>3 Augus- tan age it was the chief eitj of North Italy. Alaric

312 PADUA.

and Attila both sacked it ; and it was Venetian, 1402- 1797. In 14tli century, Padua had more artists than any city (Giotto, etc.). • The Universitys

founded in 1238, was long the best in Europe, with 18-20,000 students, Galileo was a professor ; Dante, Petrarch, and Tasso were students. It is still famous, and occupies a handsome old palace, with spacious arcades. On a promenade is a long line of statues (2 by Canova) of illustrious graduates, Savonarola, Giotto, etc. xl Santo, the vast Ch. of S. Antonio (1296-1475), 300 ft. long and 123 ft. high, is crowded with paintings, bronzes (by Donatello), and monuments (Bembo, Contarini), and has large cloisters. Taine calls it an Italian-Gothic building, decorated with Byzantine cupolas, in which round domes, noble Greek towers, little columns surmounted by ogival arcades, a fapade borrowed from Boman basilicas, and notions copied from Venetian palaces mingle the ideas of several centu- ries and countries. In front, see Donatello's equestrian bronze statue of Gattamelata, a Venetian general ; and on the S., Scuola del Santo, a hall with famous frescos by Titian. 8. Giustina (1549), a stately ch., often de- stroyed and rebuilt, with marble floor and rich choir- stalls. Near by, see Botanic Garden (oldest in Europe) ; and huge old monastery (now a hospital.) The Arena Chapel (1303) is filled with very precious frescos by Giotto (visit at morning, 50 c). Near by, see Eremitani Ch. (1276-1306), with monuments, and a chapel frescoed by Mantegna; and Scuola del Carmine, a baptistery with Titian's frescos. See Cathedral baptistery (1260), frescoed in 1380 ; 11th-century Palazzo delta liagione, with immense hall, largest known single roof, and 400 frescos ; Palazzo del Podesta and campanile ; and Civic Musew^i, many paintings Quiet old Padua may well be the object of a day's excursion from Venice.

TENICE. 313

Arrive in Venice at night, if possible. The last stat. is Mestre, whence the rly. crosses the Lagoon on a vast viaduct. 3 M. long, on 232 arches (built 1841-45 ; cost $1,000,000). The passage by night seems a flight between sea and sky.

Venice.

Hotels. — Grand Hotel Royal Danieli, in Palazzo Dandolo; Europa, in Palazzo Giustiniani; Britannia,'

Vittoria; Orand; Beaurivage; Italia; 3Ionaco;Luna; Bellemie; Pension Suisse; d Angleterre; Accademia; Vapore. Restaurants. — Quadri ; Bauer ; San Marco. Cafes, — Floriaii; Svizzero; SpeccM; Quadri; Giardino Beale, — all on or near Piazza of St. Mark. Gondolas (one rower) for 1-6 persons, 1 1. per trip, or per hr. (two rowers, double price) ; from steamers to Piazzetta, 40 c. Baggage 15 c. each piece. Hotels To call a gondola, cry out Poppe. Numerous small steamboats (vaporetti) ply regularly on the canals, answering to the street-cars in other cities ; fare, 5 c. and 10 c.

Venice is built on 117 islands in the Lagoon, with 150 canals and 378 stone bridges, and has 157,000 inhab., in maritime pursuits (commerce is increasing), and manufactures of books, mirrors, jewelry, brocades, laces, and glass (one factory is now 1,200 years old). It is 7M. around,dividedby the Grand Canal, shaped like an S, 2 M. long and 150-180 ft. wide. The La- goon is a shallow lake, 25x9 M. in area, connected with the i.driatic by 4 deep channels through long and narrow sandbanks, faced with vast masonry bul- warks. The main channels (23 ft. deep) admit the largest vessels. The tide rises and falls about Venice. A small canal is called rio ; a street, calle or lista; a square, campo; small square, campiello; blind alley.

314 THE PIAZZA DI SAN MAKCO.

corte ; quay, fondamento, or rwa. Au adequate view of Venice requires 8-10 days ; the cliief siglits may be visited in 4 days. Eor sight-seeing, the city may be cut into 5 parts, — the region E. and S. of Grand Canal ; the Grand Canal ; region N. and W. ; S. Gior- gio and Giudecca ; remoter islands.

The Piazza di San Marco is a square, 576 ft. long and 185-270 ft. wide, paved with gray trachyte and white Istrian marble, surrounded by time-stained marble palaces and St. Mark's Ch., and the picturesque centre of Yenetian life, especially at evening, when the bands play, and the cafes are crowded by thousands. Plocks of fat pigeons fed here by the city at 2 p.m. daily for 700 years. The palaces enclosing 3 sides are the Frocuratie Vecchie (N. side), built 15th century for home of the Procurators (who ranked next to the Doge), and now used for business ; Frocuratie Nuove (1584), on S. side, now the Royal Falace ; aud Nuova Fabbrica (W. side, built by Napoleon in 1810, and the home of Austrian viceroys until 1866), now connected with Royal Palace (handsome rooms ; fee, 11.). The palace arcades are occupied by cafes and bric-a-brao shops. The vast isolated Gothic Campanile, dating from the beginning of the 10th century, was 322 feet in height. It fell to the ground on July 14, 1902, but a new campanile is building, the first stone having been laid on St. Mark's day (April 25), 1903. The pretty Loggetta was destroyed when the camp- anile fell, but it, too, will be restored. The Clock- Tower (1496), across the Piazza, at entrance of Mer- ceria, Venice's chief business street, has a huge beU, on which two bronze Vulcans strike the hours. The 3 lofty cedar Hagstaffs between the towers used to bear the banners of Cyprus, Candia, and the Morea, king- doms tributary to Venice, __

VENICE. 315

The Cathedral of San Marco, on the E. side of the Piazza, is .a magiiificeut piece of Venetian Byzantine architectiire, built in 976-1071, in form of Greelc cross, with 5 domes, 500 marble columns, and 46,000 sq. ft. of mosaics. Over the portal are 4 horses of gilded copper, of Roman workmanship, brought from Constantinople by Dandolo in 1204 ; carried to Paris, in 1797, as war trophies; and returned in 1815. Below and all around, and in the great entrance hall, and inside, are mosaics. 8 fine columns in vestibule; also, 3 red slabs com- memorating the reconciliation of Barbarossa and Pope Alexander III. (1177); and the porphyry sarcophagus of Daniele Manin, last President of Venice (1848). The interior — Gautier's "a golden cavern, incrusted with precious stones, at once splendid and sombre, sparkling and mysterious " — is 258 X 210 ft. in area, with slippery and uneven 11th-century marble pave, ment, colored-marble pulpits, marble statues (made in 1393) of Christ and the Apostles, Sansovino's bronze statues of the Evangelists, and sumptuous chapels. See high altar, with canopy of verde-antico, over tomb of St. Mark the Apostle ; altar behind it, with 4 spiral alabaster columns, 2 of which belonged to Solomon's Temple; Treasury, with Doge Morosini's sword, St. Mark's throne, a bit of St. John's skull, piece of True Cross, etc. ; Sacristy (mosaics and inlaid work) and Crypt, with 64 columns ; Baptistery, with bronze font and tomb of Andrea Dandolo (1354) ; Zen Chapel, with magnificent tomb, altar, and statuary; Sansovino's bronze door, leading to Sacristy ; etc.

Tlie Piazzetta is a small square, running from S. Marco to tlie Lagoon, on which stand 2 granite columns, brought from Syria in 1120, and supportuig statues of St. Theodore and the Winged Lion of St. Mark. On one side is the finely sculptured Libreria Vecchia, built

316 DOGES' PALACE. — AKSENAL.

by Sansovino in 1582, and now part of Royal Palace The great ball was frescoed by Veronese, for wbich Yenice gave liim a gold collar. Alongside is tbe old Mint, back of which is the Royal Garden. Opposite is the Doges' Palace, with fapade 246 ft. long, and fapade of 234 ft. toward the sea. It was built in 800, and 5 times destroyed and re-erected. Most of present palace dates from 1350. The red and white marbles, Oriental designs, and Venetian- Gothic arches, combine very richly. 36 columns in lower arcade, and 71 above, in the rich Loggia, with quaint capitals. Ascend San- sovino's Giants' Staircase, between colossal statues of Mars and Neptune, where the doges were crowned ; and observe beautiful court, with statues, cisterns, and jpart of Silvio Pellico's cell. Inside, see Sansovino's ■Golden Staircase ; Hall of Great Council, 165 X 84 ft., with portraits of 76 doges, 21 vast old historical pic- tures, and Tintoretto's "Paradise;" Sala del Scrutinio, 39 doges' portraits, and many paintings ; Library, with famous MSS. ; Archaeological Museum., 5 rooms of ancient marble sculptures ; Sa.la delta Bussola ; Hall of Council of Ten; and many others, crowded with paintings, and rich in historical associations. 'Obliging .guardians in all rooms, with plans, etc.

The Molo, headquarters of gondoliers, is connected with the busy quay of the Riva dei Schiavoni by a bridge, whence good view of Bridge of Sighs, leading from the Palace to the Prison (1512-97), and made famous by Byron (Ruskin blames his " ignorant senti- •mentalism "). You may visit the Pozzi, low dungeons where state-prisoners were deprived of light and (almost) of air ; and see where the political executions occurred, ^and bodies were given to the gondoliers. In the Arsenal (open 10-4), founded 1104, were built tne fleets of the Crusaders. 16.000 men were once em«

VENICE. 617

ployed here (now 2,000). At portal, 4 marble lions, brought from Greece in 1697, one of which is said to have stood on Marathon. See military museum, Bu- centaur, rare weapons, Henri IV.'s armor, Attila's helmet, etc.

Take gondola and visit chs. E. and N. of Grand Canal. People help yon ashore at landings, and expect a penny. The great Italian-Gothic Oh. of Santi Gio- vanni e Paolo is the Venetian Pantheon, filled with imposing raausolenms of doges, statesmen, and warriors (see those of Moceuigo, Bragadino, the Valiers, Ven- dramin, and Ginstiniani), and valuable old pictures and statues. In S. transept is a window of stained glass (1473), which is rare in Venice. The ch. was founded in 1240 ; and the funerals of the doges always took place here. Ou adjacent square, see ancient equestrian statue of Colleoni, a Venetian general. Close by is the richly carved Scuola di S. Marco (1485), once head- quarters of a charitable society, now part of vast hospi- tal. To S. Zaccaria (1457), a Romanesque ch., with paintings by BeUiui, the doges nsed to go in solemn procession at beginning of Lent. S. Stefano, where Lnther once said Mass, is 14th-centQry Gothic, with many statues and a. beautiful cloister adjacent. See, in S. Maria del Orto (14S1), splendid Tintorettos; S. Salvatore (1534), remarkable pictures ; S. Maria del Miracoli (1480), a Byzantine Renaissance ch., encased in marble, with rich vaulting ; Gli Scalzi (1649), mag- nificent ch. of Carmelites, overladen with decorations of the Decadence; S. Francesco delta Vigna (1534), rich carvings and chapels of nobles ; S. Fietro di Castello, Venice's cathedral from 1596 to 1807, with a fine cam- panile. A second trip may include the chs. S. and W. of the Grand Canal-. S. Maria della Salute (1631), whose high dome is conspicuous in pictures of Venice,

318 FRARI. — GRAND CANAL.

a sumptuous ch., witli many statues and paintiugs, adjoining Patriarchal Seminary (with rich library and pictures) ; S. Sehastiano (1506), with tomb (see Latin epitaph) of Paul Veronese, and several of his paintings, and organ designed by him ; 8. Pantaleone (1668), very ancient paintings; 8. Oiovcnini Elemosinario {).b9-7), nearE-ialto; S Giacometto (820), a venerable basilica. The vast Italian-Gothic Frari, or Franciscan ch. (1250), contains many famous works of art, costly modern monument of gray marble to Titian, tombs of Canova (designed by himself) and of several doges and generals. In monastery adjacent 300 rooms contain 14,000,000 documents, some dating from 883. S. Bocco (1490, rebuilt 1725) has fine paintings. Alongside is the splen- did Pteuaissance Scuola di 8. Rocco (1415-1550), crowd, ed with pictures by Tintoretto (now sombre in tone), and with beautiful fapade, staircase, and great halls. This council-hall of charity is grouped with the Pisan Campo Santo and the Sjstine Chapel, by art-lovers.

The Grand Canal sliouIH'"be traversed by gondola, between its lines of famous palaces. On the 1., see Bog ana (Custom-House), with statue of Portuna on tower ; r., Palazzo Giustiniani (Hotel Europa) and Emo-Trhves (with Canova's Hector and Ajax; fee, IL). On the 1., Patriarchal Seminary and S. Maria della Salute. Thence the canal passes between palaces Tiepolo (Hotel Barbesi), Contarini, Perro, Pini-Wimp- ifen, Corner della Ca Grande, and Barbaro, on the r., and Dario-Angarani, Venier, Da Mala^ and Zichy- Esterhazy, on the 1., and then between Count Cham- bord's splendid Palazzo Cavalli (r.) and the vast Palazzo Manzoni-Angarini (1.) and under an iron bridge- Close to this, on 1., is the Accademia delle Belie Arti (daily, 9-4 ; 50 c.; buy catalogue), with 700 fin© ^piistures, mainly by Venetian masters, Titian, Bellini,

VENICE. 319

Giorgione, Palma, etc., with some modern works, and

many drawings by Kaphael and Angelo, in noble old

monastic halls. This is one of the great siglits of

Venice. Beyond (1.), see Falazzi Contarini, Rezzonico,

Qiustiniani, Foscari (here the canal bends), Balbi,

Pisani, etc., and on r., Falazzi Grassi, Moro-Lin, Con-

tarini, and Mocenigo, the latter a triple palace, in which

Byron wrote parts of Don Juan, etc. (1818), and where

now is an art-colleetion. Farther on (r. ., see Palazzi

. Corner Spinelli, Cavallini, Grimani(Corte d'Appello),

'Farsetti (towM-liall), 12th-century Loredan (once iiome

of King of Cyprus), Dandolo (Gothic), Bembo, and

Manin (uow National Bank). Then, half-way through

the canal, comes the famous

Rialto, a bridge of one Istrian-marble arch (15S8- 91), covered with sliops, and running from the fruit- market to the fish-market. Below (1.), see llenaissance Falazzo de Gamerlenghi (153;3), opposite ponderous Fondaco de' Tedeschi, built 1506 (frescoed by Titian} for a German warehouse. Beyond Kialto, Fescheria(S^^\L- market), on 1. ; Palazzi Michieli and Sagredo, on r. ; Falazzo Corner delta Regina (uow pawn-office), on site of Catharine Cornaro's home (1,). Nearly opposite is the Ga d'Oro, Ruskin's favorite, and a very noble palace. The Palazzi Pontaua and Grimani are beyond (r.) ; also, Palazzo Pesaro (1.), whose rich halls are open daily (1 1.) Nearly opposite each other, see Falazzo Vendramin Gale rg hi, the magnificent modern palace of Couut de Ciiambord (open daily, 11.), and the Fondaco de' Ttirchi, once headquarters of Turkish merchants (here see Gorner Museum, open Wed. and Sat., 12-4, with MSS. and paintings about Venetian history). At the Palazzo Labia the Canareggio diverges to the r. It contains the Palazzo Manfrln, with large picture- gallery (open 10-3, I 1.). Beyond iron bridge and rly.

320 S. LAZZARO. — MURANO.

stat., the Grand Canal enters the Lagoon, by the island of S. Chiara. Near the stat. are the famous Papadopoli and Botanical gardens. The theatres are the Venice, seating 3,000 people, Goldoni, Hossmi, Marionette, and Malibran. See Tintoretto's house, in the Campo dei Mori; and Titian's house, in the Sanciano. Just S. of the city are the islands of La Giudecca, with Palladios Redentore ch. (Franciscan); and S. Giorgio Maggiore, with a great Benedictine monastery, cruciform ch. by Palladio, full of art- treasures, and campanile which gives superb view. Rather shabby Public Gardens, S.E. part of city. 2 M. S. E. is the island of S. Lazzaro, with great Armenian monastery.

The islands were first colonized by fugitives from the mainland towns, ravaged by Attila. In 697 the first doge was chosen; and in 819 the present site of Venice became a capital. During the Crusades the republic grew rapidly, and conquered the coasts and islands of the Adriatic and Levant, For 300 years its power was vast, and Venice was Europe's chief port. In 1508 its star began to wane. By 1718 it was quite decadent. In 1797. the French captured the city, which was afterwards annexed to Austria. In 1866 it became Italian.

Excui^sions. — To the Lido (ihr. by gondola; 60 c. to go and return; steamer in 12min., 30c,), the beach on the Adriatic, with fine baths (la Favorita, 1 1.) and summer-hotels. — To Malamocco, at S, end of Lido ; and Chioggia (steamer, 1^-21.), 30 M. S., an ancient lagoon-town (27,000 inhab.), — To the Cemetery, on 2 islands to the N,, with S, Michele ch, (1466). Funeral processions of gondolas very interesting. — To Murano (4, 000 inhab,), li M. N,, with famous glass and mosaic factories, museum of old glass (40 c), a magnificent Cathedral (11111 and ch. of S, Fietro e Faolo (1509),

FERRAKA. 321

a noble and simple basilica. The Murano school of art preceded that of Venice. — To Torcello, 6 M. N. E. (2 hrs. by gondola), once rich and great, now poor and depopulated, but with a wonderful 7th-century Cathe- dral, famous for grand mosaics ; an octagonal Baptis- tery (1008) ; and 8. Fosea, a strange 12th-century Byzantine ch., surrounded by arcades.

Steamers, Tues., Thurs., and Sat. at midnight for Trieste (7 hrs.; fares, 12 1. 60; 8 1. 40. Rly. Venice to Trieste, 5| hrs. (fares, 27 fr. 40; 19 fr. 65).

Ferrara, Bologna, Modena, and Parma.

It is ICl M. (fares, 19 1. 45 c, 141. 5 c, 101.) from, Venice through venerable Padua; Rovigo {Corona Ferrea and other hotels), with its vast palace and pic- ture-gallery ; and Ferrara, to Bologna. Ferrara {Europa; Stella d'Oro; Pellegrino) , in a miasmatic plain near the Fo, has shrunk from 100,000 to 79,000 inhab., and has many wide empty streets and crumbling palaces. In the golden era of the House of Este (1300-1600) it was famous for art and letters, and Ariosto and Tasso lived at its court. See Lombardic Cathedral (1135), imposing fa9ade, many pictures, and handsome campanile (1550) ; S. Benedetto, with paint- ing of Paradise, in which Ariosto had his portrait in- troduced ; S. Francesco, several domes ; S. Maria in. Vado, very ancient ; S. Paolo ; monuments to Ariosto and Savonarola; houses of Ariosto and Guarini; Vni' versity, with library of 100,000 vols. (MSS. of Pastor Fido, and parts of Gerusalemme and Orlando Furioso)y museum, and tomb of Ariosto; St. Anna's Hospital^ where Tasso was imprisoned 7 years in a cell, since visited by Byron, Lamartine, and Goethe ; and Pa- lazzo de' Biamanti (1493-1567), with the Civic Pictur©'

31

83^ BOLOGNA.

Gallery (open 9-3, free), 8 rooms filled with ancient paintings. The Castle is a huge old square fortress, in the centre of Ferrara, with 4 towers, deep moats and frescoed halls. Is the scene of Byron's tragic Parisina. Bologna. (Hotel Brnn.; Q-rand Hotel d^Italie; Pelle- grino), capital of Romagna (145,000 inh.) stands on a rich plain near the Apennines, and is surrounded by brick wall, 3-4 M. around, with 12 gates. An Etruscan town ; conquered by Gauls ; allied with Carthage ; occupied by Rome, e.g. 190; then Greek, Lombard, Frank ; a free town under Charlemagne ; anti-imperiai (Guelph) ; annexed to States of the Church in 1512, and to Italy in 1859. Its splendid Roman temples, theatres, and baths were swept away by the barbarians. It was the seat of the art-school of the Caracci ; aud the home of Eraucia, Albano, Domenichino, (jruido Reui, and Guercino (see houses of last two ; and of Rossini, the composer, a native of Bologna). S. Petronio (1390) is a vast Tuscan-Gothic cli. (half iinished), 384 ft. long, 156 ft. wide, with many rich chapels, mural paintings, and sculptures. Fapade has many sculptures (made 1394-1525) of biblical sub- jects. Michael Angelo's statue of Pope Julius II. was broken in pieces by the people (1511). Charles V, was crowned Ernperor here (1530). S. Domenico contains splendid tomb of St. Dominic, with sculptures by Michael Angelo ; and tombs of Guido Reni and Elisabetta Sirani. The University is in Palazzo Gelled, with 1,400 students ; library of 150,000 vols, (open 9-3), once conducted by Mezzofanti ; large museums of geology, antiquities, etc. It dates from 1119, and once had 10,000 students, and several female professors. The Academy of Pine Arts (open 9-3.30; 1 1.) is one of the most famous in Italy, and has. Raphael's St. Cecilia. The Musm Civico is in the Palazzo Galvani (1 fr., Sun. and holidays free).

BOLOGNA. 323

See, in S. Bartolommeo, horrible portrayal of martyrdom of St. Bartholomew; S. Cecilia (1481), frescos by Francia, and nunnery of St. Catherine Vigri; S. Stefano, a group of 7 chs., with rare old Celestine cloister ; S. Giovanni in Monte (a.J). 433), precious paintings; S. Vitale (a.d. 428), lately re- stored; and other very notn,ble and ancient chs. Also, Palazzo Puhlico (1290), ancient frescos, statues, chapel, and Bramante's staircase; Palazzo del Podestd (1201), where King Enzio, son of the Emperor, was imprisoned many years; Oploteca, museum of weapons; leaning towers of Asinelli (1109; 272 ft. high; grand view of mts.) and Gari- senda {1110; mentioned in Dante's Inferno)-, Archi- ginnasio (1572), town library (open 10-4), museum of antiquities, Galvani's anatomical lecture-room; Pa- lazzo Bentivoglio, 16th century, on site of old Castle; Palazzo Fava, and Collegio di Spagna (1364), frescos by Caracci ; Loggia de' Mercanti (1294), venerable Gothic exchange; Piazza Vittorio Emanuele, and S. Domenico, fountain and statues; Palazzo Pepoli (1344), vast and imposing ; Palazzo Zampieri, with great picture-gallery (i 1.) ; and many other palaces.

La Montagnola is a plateau and public garden, with, views of Bologna and the Appenines. f M. S. is S. Michele in Bosco, orthopedic institute, for- merly convent founded by St. Basil in 4th century, in whose ch. and cloisters Guido and the Caracci left noble paintings. 2^ M. S.-W. is the Madonna di S. Luca, a pilgrimage-ch. on strongly fortified hill, approached by arcade 1 M. long (635 arches; 100 years in building), and viewing Apennines and Adriatic. It contains portrait of the Virgin, ascribed to St. Luke, brought from Constantinople in 1160. Ou the way hither, visit La Certosa, a Carthusian monastery (1335), whose cloisters now con- i,ain very interesting Campo Santo (cemetery), with

334 MODENA. — PARMA.

rich monuments, a statue-adorned rotunda, and a col- ossal lion commemorating the martyrs for liberty.

If yoTi intend going S. to E-ome, and thence N. along the Mediterranean, it is well to make a side- trip from Bologna to Modena (23 M.) and Parma (54 M.).

Modena {Albergo Reale; S. Marco), an ancient ducal capital (58,000 inhab.), was once an important Roman town, where Antony besieged Brutus (b.c. 43), on the Via Emilia, from Rome to the N. A stately city, surrounded with ramparts, on which are prome- nades. See Cathedral (1099-1184), with Arthurian sculptures (1100), rose-window, monumental tombs, and lofty colonnaded crypt ; renowned Campanile^ called La Ghirlandina (1224-1319), 335 ft. high, en- cased in white marble, with wooden bucket taken from the Bolognese in 1325 (Tassoni, who wrote a poem about it, has a statue near by) ; S. Michele, in which Muratori is buried; Begarelli's Pieta, which Michael Angelo praised; JPiiblic Gaa^deiis; and ramparts, with views of Appenines. The vast and msignificentPalazzo Reale (formerly Ducal Palace) has noble fagade on Piazza Reale, and a courtyard surrounded by colon- nades. See Library, 120,000 vols, and 3,000 MSS. (14th-century edition of Dante); cabinets of medals and gems, and archives; large gallery of pictures (open 9-3), many of which are copies, a fact which the catalogue omits to state.

Parma ( Croce Bianca; Concordia; Italia), founded by the Etruscans; became Roman, b.c. 183; was Lombardic, a city of Charlemagne, of the Holy See, a Guelphic stronghold; seat of the Farnese princes, 1545-1731; and capital of Duchy from 1815 until 1859, when it fell to Italy (45,000 inhab.). The Ro- man Via Emilia cuts through its centre; and dreary, «leut streets diverge on both sides. Parma is sur-

EEGGIO. — E A VENN A. 325

rounded by great walls, "with 5 gates and a strong citadel. See Romanesque Cathedral (13 century), with notable crypt, rich monuments, and Correggio's vast and world-renowned fresco of The Assumption; Baptistery (1196-1270), octagonal marble ch., with colonnades, quaint carvings, old frescos ; S. Giovanni Eoangelisfa (1510), remarkable frescos by Correggio in dome and cloisters ; Madonna delta Steccafa (1521), fine frescos, and tombs of notables ; Convent of S. Paolo (50 c), with Correggio's famous lunettes and Diana; Farnese Theatre (50c.); Stradone, promenade near citadel ; and Public Garden, with an old Farnese chateau, richly frescoed. The Ducal Palace (Farnese), founded 1597, lias museums of antiquities and pictures (open 9-4 ; 11.), with many famous works of Correggio and the Caracci, including Correggio's Scala and Sco- della Madonnas and St. Jerome (II (jiorno). The Library bus 206,000 vols., and many Oriental MSS. Picturesque old road from Parma to La Spezia, on Gulf of Genoa.

Reggio (Posta^, between Parma and Modena, (50,000 inhab.), with notable walls, citadel, theatre, and cathedral, fine chs., and Ariosto's birthplace, is 9 M. from Correggio, the great artist's birthplace , and 4 hrs. drive from rains of Canossa, where Henry lY. of Germany performed penance befo'e Pope Gregory YII. (1077).

Ravenna, Rimini, Ancona, Brindisi, and Taranto.

From Bologna it is 52i M. (9^1., 61. 70 c., 41. 80 c") to "RsL'^enna ((Byron; Spada'd'Oro), a Thes- salian colony, once capital of Roman empire; captured by Odoacer and Theodoric; capital of the Gothic kings, 493-552 ; thence for 200 years capital of Exui-cIj.'^- c^r

326 RAVENNA. — DANTE'S TOMB.

governors sent by Greek emperors ; taken by Lom- bards, and by Pepin of France, who gave it to tlie Pope ; Yenetian garrison, 1440-1509 ; and attached to States of the Church, 1509-1860. It is now a dreamy town of 62,000 inhab., very rich in early Christian art; and 5 M. from the Adriatic, of which it was once a cliief port. Dante's Tomb (1482), a dome-covered structure, with carvings, contains the ashes (discovered in 1865 in ch. of S. Francesco) of the poet, who died here, in exile and under excommunication, in 1321. Byron lived at Ravenna 2 years, and wrote several great poems. See site of the house wh'^re Dante lived; in Piazza Vittoria EmanueU, tall columns with statues, erected by the Yenetians in 1494, and colon- nade of old basilica; Cathedral, on site of 4th-century ch., with 8th-century minaret-like campanile, 6th-cen- tury tombs, and silver crucifix, and paintings by Guido ; 4th-century octagonal Bajptistery, with 5th-century font and mosaics (Baptism of Christ, etc.) ; ArcJiiepisco- pal Palace, 5th -century chapel, 25,000 parchments in archives ; S. Apollinare, built in 500 by Theodoric for the Arians, and given by Justinian to the Catholics, with round campanile, 24 columns from Constantinople, and many Bth-century mosaics ; S. Vita-le, consecrated in 547 by St. Maximian, copied from S. Sophia, at Constantinople, octagonal, with massive pillars, many beautiful and brilliant mosaics of Justinian's time, Greek and Roman reliefs, and a dome of eartheu vases bound together ; Mausoleum of G-alla Placidia, built 440 by Empress Galla Placidia, small domed cruciform c!i., with mosaics, and sarcophagi of Honorius and Constantius III.' (the only Roman emperors whose tombs remain undisturbed)*, Academi) of Fine Arh (75 c), pictures by Ravennese masters, vases, bronzes ; Library (open 9-2) of 50,000 vols., and many rare

RIMINI. — SAN MARINC. 327

MSS., in old Monastery of Classe, wliich has frescoed refectory ; *S'. Niccolb (760), now deserted ; S. Gio- vanni Eoangelisfa (444 j, near rly. stat., 24 antique col- umns, and frescos by Giotto ; remains of Palace of Theocloric ; and many other old chs. and great palaces.

Outside the Porta Serrata is the tomb of Theodorio the Great (530), a ponderous structure (now a ch.) covered with a block of Istrian stone 36 ft. in diameter. S. Maria in Porta Fiiori, 2^ M. out, is an open-roofed basilica (1096). S. ApoUinare in Classe (a..d. 534), 3 M. out, is a magnificent basilica, with 24 cipolline columns,^ open roof, 6tli-century mosaics, a noble altar, and portraits of 126 bishops of Havenua, from St. ApoUiuaris (martyred a.d. 74) to the present. Beyond is La Pineta, tde famous and venerable pine-forest, known to the Romans, praised by Byron, Boccaccio, Dante, etc., and covering many leagues. Highway along coast to Rimini, 31 M.

The rly. S. E. from Bologna traverses Imola ; Castel Bolognefie ; Faenza {Corona; Vittoria), a walled town of 20,000 Inhab., with great citadel and potteries (whence Faience) ; Forli (17,000 inhab.), at foot of Apennines, with line cathedral and castles; Cesena with handsome palaces and rare library; Rimini {Leon d'Oro; Aquila d'Oro), a pretty city (33,000 inh.) and summer resort on the Adriatic, with magnificent class- ical cathedral, dilapidated Malatesta Palace, Roman triumphal arch and bridge, and house of Francesca da Rimini (25 1. for carriage tlience, 15 M., to San Marino, capital of Republic of same name, the oldest govern- ment in Europe). The rly. follows the Adriatic to Pesaro, birthplace of Rossini, where there are fine chs., a rich library, and the old Palace of Dukes of Urbino, once a brilliant literary centre. Here Tasso wrote the Amadis. Diligence in 6 hrs. {2\\ M.) to

328 ANCONA. — PISTOJA.

Urbino (JtaMa), a town of 16,000 iiihab., surrounded by sombre mts. Raphael's birthplace is shown ; also, grand Renaissance Ducal Palace, and chs. ricli in art.

Ancona {La Pace ; Vitforia^ is built on an amphi^ theatrical hillside facing the Adriatic, and has 46,000 inhab., with high-placed semi-Oriental cathedral (col- umns from the Temple of Venus), colossal statue of Cavour, liandsome palaces, and (on the Mold) tri- umphal arch reared by the Roman Senate, a.d. 113, to Trajan, and another in honor of Pope Clement XII.

11-14 hrs. distant by rly. (621. 80 e., 441., 311. 40 c.) is Brindisi {International; Centrale; Europa; tolerable), once an important Roman naval * station, and now the chief point of departure for the East Indies, on the mail-route from England to India. It is growing rapidly 27,000 inhab.), and is visited bj steamers for Adriatic, Greek, Italian, and Levantim ports (3 days to Alexandria). Here the Appian Waj ended; and here Virgil died.

53f M. hence by rly. (10 1. 60 c, 6 1. 70 c, 4 1. 80 c.) to Otranto, a port on tiie heel of the Italian boot. Br. ry. from Bari to Taranto {Aquila d/Oro; Europa), with richly decorated Cathedral and strong castle.

Ancona to Rome by rly., 183 M. (351, 241. 70 c.). Few tourists will go S. of Ravenna on this coast.

Bologna to Florence, in 82 M. (5-6 hrs. ; fares, 141. 20 c., 101. 45 c., 71. 55 c.), by remarkably pictu- resque rly. across the Apennines, with many very costly bridges, tunnels, galleries, and viaducts, and down to the rich Tuscan plains (superb views) . Pistoja ( O-loho) is an ancient town of 13,000 inhabitants, at fool of Apennines, rich in 13th and 14th-century sculptures, and a favorite summer-resort for Florentines. Pistols are named from this town. Catiline was defeated and killed near by. See, in 12th-century GatJiedral, monU'

FLORENCE. 329

ments, cboir-stalls, and silver altar ; Campanile, once a fortified tower ; Italian- Gotliic Baptistery, of black and white marble ; S. Andrea, splendid pulpit (1298-1301) and carved architrave; several other rich chs. and massive old palaces ; and suburban Villa Puccini, in beautiful gardens.

Pistoja to Pisa, 40^ M. (6 1. 60 c, 5 1. 35 c, 4^1.) ; to Florence, 21j M. ; 45 min.

Florence. /

Hotels : Orand ; Florence and Washington ; Neiv York; Italie; de la Ville; Palace; Cavour; d' Europe; Porta Rossa; Victoria-, Alliance; Anglo- American; 3Iinerva Paoli; Albion; Bristol; Grande Bretagne. There are also many excellent pensions where those making a long stay can live cheaply and well. Furnished apartments may also be had reason- ably, meals being prepared at home, sent in from one of the trattorie, or taken in the restaurants.

Theatres: Nicolini; della Pergola; Politeama Nazionale (fine summer theatre) ; Verdi-, Alhambra. British, Yia Tornabuoui, No. 2.

IFlorentia was founded by the Romans, before Christ ; ravaged by the barbarians ; rose to great commercial importance by 1100 ; suffered from centuries of civil conflicts and foreign wars ; ruled by the Medici faToily, . 1434-1737 ; by dukes of the house of Lorraine, 1737 -1860 ; and was capital of Italy, 1864-70. Since 1870 it has fallen into decay and financial embarrassment, but is a favorite winter-resort, by reason of its vast art-treasures, natural beauty, and cheapness of living. It stands on a narrow plain, partly surrounded by the Apennines and their foot-hills, and cut in two by the river Aruo, which is nearly dry in summer. There are 200,000 inhab.

330 PALAZZO VECCHIO. — UFFIZI GALLERY.

The Piazza della Signoria, the central square^ forum of the Republic, and present business-centre, i? adorned by bronze equestrian statue of Cosmo, marble lion, and Neptune Fountain, erected in 1564-75, on site of Savonarola's martyrdom. Here fronts the Palazzo Vecchio (bui^ 1298), once capitol of Re- public and palace of Cosmo I., and now town-hall, — a tall, massive, and formidable fortress-palace. Enter (by Bandinelli's statues of Hercules and Cacus) the court' yard, with Miclielozzi's dainty arabesques, Yasari's fountain, Yerocchio's statue of a boy. The Hall of the Great Council was built in 1495, at Savonarola's order. Italian Parliament sat here, 1865-70. Yasari and oth- ers made many of the frescos ; and two very famous cartoons were drawn by Leonardo and Angelo, for this hall. See Hall of the Two Hundred, used by town- council ; Hall of the Lilies, with rich marble work ; and Medici apartments. Campanile built by Arnolfo del Cambio, 308 ft. high (450 steps), gives a grand view. Its bell Avas the rallying-sound in the civil Vi^ars. In front is the Loggia dei Lanzij a very graceful arcade built in 1376 for Cosmo's guards of lancers ; later, a tribune Mdieuce the people were harangued ; and now conta^ining celebrated statues, — Benvenuto Cellini's "Perseus," Donatello's "Judith," Giovanni da Bo- logna's "Hercules," etc. Alongside Palazzo A^ecchio, see Palazzo TJguccione, planned by Raphael ; opposite which is new Palazzo Fenzi, in Early Plorentine style. Between Yecchio and Loggia, enter Portico degli Uffizi, built by Yasari, 1560-74, with marble statues of 24 famous Tuscans. On r., entrances to Mint, now Post- Office ; on 1., to the world-renovv^ued

Uffizi Gallery (open 10-4, adni, 1 fr., Sundays, free; catalogues, 3| 1.), the vast art-collections made by the Medici and Lorraine dynasties. See Niole

I

FLORENCE, 331

BaU^ aali<^ae«>statues of Niobe and her cliildren ; hall of portraits of painters, made by themselves ; Tribuna, with Venus de Medici, Wi'estlers, Apollino, and many celebrated paintings ; cabinets of gems, cameos, bronzes, and vases ; vast collections of ^Flemish, German, Dutch, and Venetian pictures ; and masterpieces of Raphael, Titian, Correggio, etc. Tlie National Library (open 10-4)lias480,000 vols., 18,000 MSS., rare books, and •the great Tuscan archives.

The grand and massive Pitti Palace, S. of the Aruo, was begun in 1440, on Brunelieschi's plans, for the merchant Pitti, whose heirs sold it in 1559 to the Medici, who made it their home, and had Vasari joiu it to the Palazzo Vecchio by a corridor 1,800 ft. long (now tilled with rare drawings by Itahan masters). Tiie Pitti is occasionally occupied by the king. Its front (121 ft. high) is of enormous blocks of stone, 20-25 ft. long. On the second floor is a gallery (Tne., Thnrs., Snn., 10-4) of 500 fine old pictures, in 13 magnificent sa- loons, richly frescoed and adorned with tables and cabinets of marble, alabaster, malachite, and mosaic. Here are some of the best works of Eaphael, Titian, . etc. The Boboii Garden (open Tues., Thurs., Sun., 12-6), back of the palace, was laid out in 1500, and its hill-terraces command noble views of Florence (especially from Belvedere) . See ampitheatre, grotto, obelisk, Neptune's statue (by Giovanni da Bologna), etc. Near the Pitti is the extensive and valuable Mu- seum of Physics, with Galileo's first telescopes, and one of his fingers; also rare botanical collections.

The Academy of Fine Arts (open 10-4, 1 1. ; Suns, and festivals free) contains schools of design, painting, architecture, music, mechanism, chemistry, etc., and a noble collection of old religious pictures showing the development of Tuscan art. The lowel

332 NATIONAL MUSEUM. — CATHEDKAL.

halls contain modem paintings. The court is decorated witli reliefs by Luca della Robbia. In second court is Michael Angelo's celebrated statue ot* David. Floren- tine Mosaic-factory in same building (museum open daily). Close by, in cloisters of the Scaizo, fin>e frescos by Andrea del Sarto ; also Medicean Casino, built 1570. In same square is Ch. of S. Marco (1290), with many pictures and statues, and tombs of Politian and Pico della Mirandola. Next door is the famous old Domini- can Monastery of S. Marco, now occupied by a museum (open 10-4, 1 1. ; free Sun. ; guide-book, 1^1.) of choice works of old masters, great number of frescos by Ifra Angelico, etc., in cloisters, cells, and refectory. See cell of Savonarola. Era Angelico, Fra Bartolommeo, St. Antoninus, and Politian were monks here. The dccademia della Cr,^sca, founded in 1582 to preserve she purity of tlie Italian language, is established here.

The National Museum (open 10-4, 1 1. ; Sun. free) has a hail of mediaeval bronzes, with Giovanni da Bologna's ceaebrated" Mercury," Donatello's "David," *' St George," and 8 other works; Carrand collection of paintings; a collection of weapons; statuary by Angelo, Baudinelli, etc. ; ancient furniture ; faience ; celebrated frescos by Giotto, in old chapel ; rich terra- cottas ; staiiied glass, etc. It is in the Palazzo del Fodesta, or II Bargello, built 1256 for the Florentine chief magistrate ; fortified 1317 ; and often assailed by the populace. The curfew was sounded from the cam- panile. The prisons and torture-rooms were here. See picturesque court.

The Cathedral of l!Sm. Maria del Flore (so called t'rom the lily in the arms of Plorence), one of the grand- est Gothic chs. of Europe, was built 1294-1474, by Arnoifo, Giotto, Gaddi and Orcagna, on site of older ch. of S. Reparata, and is 556| ft. long, and 342 ft.

FLORENCE, S33

wide (at transepts), wltli walls of beautiful wtite and colored marbles. The nave is 154 ft. higli. Beautiful -porcb on Via Ricasoli, with pillars resting on backs of lions r, and over the door statues by Douatello and Jacopo della Querela. The interior is impressive, but simple, with huge pillars flanking the lofty nave, rich marble-mosaic pavement, and stained windows. See Jacopo della Quercia's "Madonna," Uccello's frescos, Gaddi's mosaics, Angelo's " Entombment ; " bronze doors, by Luca della Robbia; statues, portraits, and tombs of many celebrated Elorentines. It is a perfect treasure-house of art. The stained glass was designed by Ghiberti and Donatello, and made at Lubeck. The Dome, 352 ft. high, made by Brunelleschi (1421-36) is higher than that of St. Peter's, and may be ascended (463 steps ; 57 more to the Cross ; fee, 1 1.). Interest- ing details, and grand view. King Victor Emmanuel laid foundations of new main fapade in 1860. In this oh. Giuliano de' Medici fell under the daggers of the Pazzi ; the Greek Emperor offered to become Catholic ; and Erederick II. of Germany knighted many of his fierce captains. In the Opera del Duomo is the Cathedral Museum {^ fr.).

The Italian-Gothic Campanile, the most marvellous beR-tower in the world, is Giotto's noblest work (1334-36). It is 292 ft. high, in 4 stories, of which the uppermost is superbly decorated, with delicate tracery around windows, and many statues and reliefs by Giotto, Donatello, and other masters. The tower is built of variegated marbles. Eee to ascend, 1 1. Noble view of Elorence and Apennines (414 steps). Along- side is the famous ch. of the Misericordia, whose cowled brethren are often seen upon the streets and opposite is the Canonry, with statues of Amolfo and Brunelleschi, See Sasso di Dante, near by, a stone oa which Dante used to sit.

334 BAPTISTERY.

The Baptistery of *S'. Giovanni (6th centuryj, oppo- site the Cathedral, is an octas^onal marble ch., 94 ft. in diameter, with dome. Until 1128 it was used as a cathedral. Here are Ghiberti's celebrated broiizt? doors (1408-52), with 10 Old-Testament scenes, and 28 from life of Christ and early Church history. Michael Angelo declared these worthy to be the gates of Paradise (see also George Eliot's Romolci). At the sides are two porphyry columns, given by Pisa in 1200. Bronze door on S., scenes from life of St. John, made by Andrea Pisano (1408-30). Inside are many statues, dim old mosaics, Oriental-granite col- umns, and tomb of Pope John XXllI. SS. Ammn- ziata (1250) contains Andrea del Sarto's best works, sumptuous chapels, and cloisters. S. Croce, built (1294-1442) by Arnolfo and Vasari, is an imposing cruciform basilica, with modern fa9ade of black and white marbles (1863), high tower, and rich cloisters and refectory (many paintings). In this vast old Ploren- tine Pantheon are the tombs of Galileo, Michael Angelo, Macchiavelli, Raphael Morghen, Lanzi, Cherubini, Ugo Poscolo, and other great men; and monuments to Dante and Alfieri. Hare treasures of art, including many frescos by Giotto. In front, see noble modern statue of Dante. S. Lorenzo, consecrated by St. Ambrose in 393, and rebuilt by the Medici in 1425, from Brunelleschi's and Michael Angelo's plans, is a sumptuous Poraanesque ch., resting on 14 tall Corinth- ian columns, and containing tomb of Cosmo, "Patlier of his People ; " and sculptures by Donatello, Brunelleschi, Michael Angelo, and Thorwaldsen. In new Sacristv are Angelo's Twilight, Dawn, Day, and Night, over the tombs of the Medici. The Chapel of the Princes (1604), erected by the Medici at a cost of $4,400,000, for their sepulchres, is a dome-covered octagon, lined

FLORENCE. 335

With precious marbles, mosaics, and frescos. Adjacent sceLauren^m^ Ubmry (open 9-3; i-U.), fonnded 1444 by Cosmo, m buildmg planned by Michael Angelo. Priceless old vols, and 8,000 MSS., many of them rare, by Dante, Alfieri, Petrarch, Boccaccio, and ot Virg-il, vEscliylus, etc. 1

S Maria Novella (1278-1371) is a beautiful ch.' pt black and white marbles, with arcades, and attractive interior, on slender pillars. See Ghiriandajo's famous jrescos, m choir ; Brunelleschi's crucifix, in Gondi Uiapei;^ Gimabue s Madonna, borne in triumph by the Florentines from the studio to the ch. ; Orcama's trescos, m Strozzi Chapel, and in Green Cloister : vast blottesque frescos, in Spanish Chapel; and Great Cloisters, the largest in Plorence. See, also, in S Maria Maddalem, fresco by Perugino; La Badia with ancieiit tombs and tall tower; Or San Michell built in 1284 by Arnolfo for a corn-haU, and made a Gotluc ch. in 1337-55, with many statues by the great yfo-n?^ ^^^ .^^t^^'^ by Orcagna (1359) ; S. Trinita Ci2o0) •Carmine (1422), with cloisters, and Masaccio's lamous frescos (studied by Perugino, Raphael, An- fn mn |^^°^^^^^o)- See, also, Marucellian library, /UOUO vols.; Riccardian library, containing oldest-^ Mb. m existence (Pliny) ; houses of Benvenuto Cel- lim, Dante, Ghiberti, Bianca Capello, Amerigo Ves- pucci, Galileo, MacchiavelH, Guicciardini, Andrea del barto; the great hospitals, decorated by the masters (especially Poundlmg Hospital, S. Maria Nuova) ; busy Mercato Iliwvo ; and interesting great Egyptian and Etruscan Museum (open 9-3 ; 1 1.), in refectory of old Convent ot S. Onofrio, vases, rehefs, implements, etc., and fresco (1505) of "Last Supper;" and house ol Michael Angelo (daily, 10-4; \ f r. ; Men., Thurs., Iree), with museum of works cind relics of Angelo Ihere are scores of huge old palaces, mainly by

336 LUNG' ARNO.

illustrious architects. Among them, see Ridolji (Uu* eellai), which was sacked bj the people in 1527 ; AltoviH, with marble portraits of famous Florentines ; Corsini, very elegant, with large picture-gallery (open Tues., Eri., and Sat.) ; Strozzi, 3 vast facades, a very perfect and imposing palace, with picture-gallery (open) ; Ric- cardi (1434), original and stately home of the Medici (see chapel and courts) ; Fotttebuoni, where Alfieri died; /5^om, now municipal offices; Manelli (1565); Panciatichi, with picture-gallery ; and Torrigiano, with, large gallery (open daily) and famous gardens.

The Arno is bordered by the handsome old quays of the Iiung' Arno, on both sides, and crossed by the picturesque Fonte Vecchio (1362), covered with shops; elegant Ponte S. Trinita, built 1252 ; Ponte alia Car- raja (1218), often restored; Ponte alle Grazie (1235) ; and 2 suspension-bridges. The Via dei Cahajuoli, from cathedral to Uffizi, and Via Tornabuoni are the busiest streets. There are many picturesque squares, adorned with statues and fountains.

Excursions. — The Cascine, a narrow park extend* ing 2 M. along the Arno, just W. of Florence, has favorite rambles and drives (military music, zoological garden, etc.). — Along the Viale dei Colle to Piazza Michael Angelo, a beautiful esplanade (dedicated 1875), with monument and bronze copies of Angelo's works. — S. Miniato is a beautiful ch. on far- viewing hill on E., in Pisan-Florentine architecture (1013), with rich fapade, mosaics, 14 great marble columns, open roof, notable crypt, niello mosaic pavement (1207), and finely frescoed sacristy. Charnnng view of Florence. — Bello Sguardo, just S. W. of Florence, commands a lamous view over city and mts. — The Poggio Im- periale, once a ducal villa, now a nuns' school, is out- side and above the Porta Bomana, reached by fine avenue of trees. I^ear'^W h the tower whifiJi wm

FIESOLE. — VALLOMBROSA. 33?

Galileo's observatory; also, villa where he livedo 1G31-43, and was visited by Milton. In adjacent villa, Guicciardini wrote the history of Italy. — La Certosa, 3 M. from Porta Romana, is a rast and fortress-like Carthusian monastery, built 1341, from Orcagna's plans. Fine paintings, monuments, etc., in cn.j cloisters, and chapter-house (11.). — Monte Oli- veto, 1 M. from Forta S. Frediaiio, is a monastery (1334), whence grand views. — Villa San Donato (Demidoff), open Mon. and Eri. (5 1.). — Villa Ca- reggi, 2-3 M. N., once seat of Medici and Platonic Academy. Cosmo and Lorenzo died here. — Foggio tt Cajano, royal villa, 12 M. N. W. ; and Villa della Fetraia, anotlier royal residence. — Pratolino, former forest-palace of Medici.

Fiesole, 3 M. N. of Plorence, beyond convent where Pra Angelico dwelt, was an Etruscan city, and retains parts of vast Myalls. See also Cathedral (1028), and old palaces adjacent; Eranciscan convent, on site of Acropolis; ancient theatre (50c.); splendid abbey; and fascinating views of Val d' Arno.

Vallombrosa, 18 M. distant, among the Apennines, may be visited in a day. Yast abbey, founded 1050, now a school of forestry. 1 hr.'s climb hence to top of Fratomagno, 5,323 ft. high, with noble view to Medi- terranean. Excursion also to very picturesque Casen* tino region, and grand old abbeys of Camaldoli and Aloernia.

Arezzo, Orvieto, Perugia, If'oligno, Siena*

From Florence we would recommend you to go to Rome by the shortest route, through Arezzo, Orvieto, and Orte (195t M. ; fares, 33 1. 85 c, 23 1. 30 c, I6i 1. ; by express -trains, 381. 5 c., 261.40 c.). Fares by express fr«m Moretioe to Arezzo, 54^ M., 101. 10 c, 7 i. 5c.

338 AREZZO. — PERUGIA.

Beautiful rat. scenery on the long ascent xo 'A.Tezzo{ViUoria; La Stella; Inf/Mlter7'a),a.n ancient Etruscan city ■which became an ally of Rome^ B.C. 310. Here Maecenas, Vasari, Petrarch, and other famous men wei'e born. It now has 18,000 inhab. See Italian- Gothic Cathedral (1177), with many pictures, tombs, etc. S. Maria della Pieve, remarkable lafade ; S. Fran- cesco, interesting frescos ; Museum, majolicas, bronzes, antiques ; Ahhey of 8. Mora ; old palaces, chs., and statues. Cortona {Nazionale), another Etruscan town, has great Gathed^ral, Museum, vast Etruscan walls, and fortress (superb view). Rly. runs near Lake ThrasT/mene and the lovely Yal di Chiana. Orvieto {Belle Arti ; Aquila Bianca : omnibus from stat., 1 1.) stands on a lofty volcanic rock ; and has a magnificent Cathedral (1290-1600) of black and white marble, with nave 111 ft. high, crowded with mosaics, carvings, shrines, and frescos by Luca Signorelli and Era An- gelico. The route hence to Eome leads by Monte Rotondo and Montana, where Garibaldi was defeated Id 1S67.

A longer rly. route to Eome leads from Cortona. along Ijuke Thrasymene (30 X 8 M. in area ; near by, Hannibal annihilated the lioman army, B.c. 217), to

Perugia {Grand; Palace; Grande Bretagne; Belle Arti). once Etruscan, now capital of Umbria (19,000 inhab.), with 103 chs. and 50 monasteries. See great 15th-century Cathedral ; S. Pietro de' Casinense, 18 antique columns, choir-stalls designed by Raphael ; S. Severe, with Raphael's first fresco ; S. Dometiico, tomb of Pope Benedict XI. ; University (50 c), founded 1320, with large gallery of Umbrian pictures, antiqui- ties, etc. ; Arch of Augustus, an ancient city-gate ; Perugino's house; Etruscan cemetery; and colfections in several palaces. Supei'b views over Tiber valley and

j SIENA. 339

I

Apennines. Assisi, perclied on a high hill, was the birthplace of St. Francis, and has vast Eranciscan mon- astery (fee to monk, 1 1.), and its wonderful Gothic double ch., with frescos by Giotto and Cimabue, and other treasures. Foligno (23,000 inhab.) has 6 inter- esting chs. Within 50 years it has suffered 4 severe earthquakes. The rly. thence to Rome passes Trevi, Spoleto, and Term (beautiful falls here).

A still louger route is from Florence to Siena (59 M. ; fares, 101.85 c., 1\\., 5 1.30c.), passing Gertaldo^ where Boccaccio died ; and Por/fjibomi{w\\ei\cQ carriages to San Gimignano, with enormous walls, interesting chs., and many works of art.

SiQna. {Jdotel de Sie?ine; Co7iti7iental), city of 23,000 (once 200,000) inhab., celebrated for ancient school of devotional art, for pretty women, healthy climate, and purity of language. Sieges and wars innumerable have distressed it. See vast and superb 13th-century Cathe- dral, of red, white, and black marbles, abounding in sculptures and paintings, rose windows, choir-stalls, etc.; Z/i^/'<2/y (M95), frescos by Pinturicchio and Ra- phael ; notable Campanile, Baptistery/, and Fellegrinajo hospital ; S. Domenico, S. Francesco, S. Bernardino, and other chs. ; Oratory of St. Catherine of Siena ; Institute of Fine Arts (open 9-3), with valuable Sienese pictures, including Sodoma's " Descent from the Cross ; " Fa- lazzo Publico (1293-1309), with many stately and richly furnished halls ; Campanile, which Leonardo da Vinci admired; handsome Faldzzo del Cover no (1469), with 30,000 parchments, some dating from 811 ; Loggia di S. Faolo (1417) ; other palaces of nolle period of archi- tecture ; the Fonte Gaja and Fonte Branda ; La Lizza^ the promenade; the University; the Opera del Du- omo, now Cathedral Museum. Excursions to L'Os- servanza monastery and Belcaro castle.

340 ROMS

Hotels.— Quirinal; Begina; Gr.and; Royal; Excelsior; Bristol; de Russie; Savoy; Beau-Site; Eden; Palace; Berto- linVs Splendid; Suisso; Primavera; Victoria; Angletcrre; Italic; Hassler (Gi-erinaii); Anglo - Americainc; Marini; Michel; Campidoglio; Laurati; Helvetia; Minerva; Milano; National. There are also many good pensions suitable for a long stay.

Permits to visit Vatican and many villas and palaces obtained from hotel proprietor or guide, or from appointed officials. Get Baedeker's Central Raly, compact and practical ; Hare's Walks in Rome; Murray's Rome is good reading, but bulky; Hacliette's Rome ct ses Eyivirons is good.

Old travelers advise that mornings at Ronae be given to the chs. and palaces, and afternoons to the classic ruins and fragments of the Imperial city.

A visit to Rome is the most interesting experience in the course of a European tour. No adequate idea of the city can be gained in less than 10-12 days. If the traveller can give it but 7-8 days, he should devote the time equally between the classic remains and the great chs. and modern institutions. American Ch, of St. Paul, on Via Nazionale.

Tradition ascribes the founding of Eome to Romulus and Remus, b.c. 753. It is probably much older. King Tarquin was expelled, B.C. 509; the republic lasted 480 years, conquering the ' Etruscans, Samnites, Gauls, Lucanians, etc. B.C. 890 the Gauls took Rome. Then came wars with Carthage (b.c. 264-341, 219-303, and 149- 146); conquest of Corsica (238), Sicily (241), Spain (B.C. 197- 178), Greece (b.c. 214-205, 200-197, 173-168, and 146), Pergamus (129), Provence (118), and Gaul (58-50). B.C. 29, Augustus Csesar became emperor. 47 legions garrisoned the vast empire. Constantino (324-337 a.d.) made Christianity the State religion, but removed the capital of the empire to Constantinople. Rome was sacked by Alaric 410, then by

EOME. 341

0enseric, and finally by Odoacer (476), who annihilated the Koman empire. In 546 .and 549 the Goth Totila took the city. Leo the Great (440-461) and Gregory the Great (590- 604) founded the papal power, which was solidified by Pepin (755) and Charlemagne (800).

Rome, " the Eternal City," the capital of Italy (430,000 iuhab.), is on the river Tiber, 15^ M. from its mouth, and near the centre of the broad and desolate Campagna. The Tiber runs for 3 M. through Rome, with the low Vatican and Janiculan Hills on the r., and on the 1. the circle of the Pincian, Quirinal, Viminal, Esquiline, Cselian, and Aventine Hills, surrounding the Palatine- and Capitoline Hills (the last 7 are the famous "Seven Hills"). The space within the walls is about the same as in Aurelian's time, but f of it is in gardens and ruins. As in the Augustan age, it is divided into 14 Rioni, or wards. The ecclesiastical population is 7,500. Many of the streets are narrow and unattractive ; but the Corso, Yia Babuino, Ripetta, and a few others are filled with splendid shops and animated crowds. There are 7 bridges over the Tiber. The river often overflowed its banks and made lakes of the lower squares before embankments were Built.

The walls of Rome are of brick, 14 M. around, and 55 ft. high, and about 1600 years old, though restored by Theodoric, Belisarius, etc. There are 12 gates now open, and several closed. On N. is Porta del Popolo, built in 1561 by Vignola; nest is Pinciana, closed in 1S08 ; then Salara (closed), flanked by towers, where Alaric entered Rome ; Pia, built from Angelo's designs in 1564, and breached by Italian batteries in 1870 ; Nomentana, closed since 1564 ; Tiburtina, long ago sealed up ; aS'. Lorenzo, built by Honorius, over the Tivoli road ; the rly. gate ; Porta Maggiore-, part of Claudian Aq-ieduct Ca.d. 52), made a gate by Aurelian,

342 AQUEDUCTS. ^ PIAZZA DEL POPOLO.

and a fortress by the Coloimas, and commanding the Palestrina road ; S. Giovanni, built in 1574, over Al- bano road ; Asinaria (now closed), where Belisarius inarched into Rome ; Metronia, closed ; Latina (closed 1808), over Via Latina, to Capna ; S. Sebastiano, with towers and pinnacles, over Appian Way ; S. Paolo, at foot of Aventine, over road to Ostia. On W. bank of Tiber, Porta Portese, close to river; 8. Pancrazio, on Janiculan Hill, stormed by French troops in 1849, and ruined by their artillery ; Cavalleggieri, close to St. Peter's, where the army of the Constable de Bourbon entered in 1527, and the French were repulsed in 1849 ; Fabbrica (closed) ; Angelica, over route to Monte Mario; and Castello (closed).

The Aqueducts give a noble idea of Roman archi- tecture and bold conception, with their vast arcades running for leagues over the Campagna. The Aqua Marcia, built e.g. 146 and restored in 1869, brings the purest of water from the Sabine mts., 56 M. away. The Aqua Claudia (a.d. 50) leads from near Subiaco, 58-|M. The Aqua Trajana leads from Bracciano, 35 M. The Aqua Virgo, built by Agrippa, for his baths, leads from a spring 14 M. out on the Campagna, and breaks out in the Fountain of Trevi. The Aqua Felice (built by Sixtus V., in 1585) leads from the Alban mts., 21 M. Rome is thus copiously supplied.

The Piazza del Popolo, the focus at N. gate of Rome to which the great streets Babuino, Corso, and Ripetta converge, is adorned with an Egyptian obelisk (set up here in 1589), fountains, and statues. S. Maria del Popolo (1099), on haunted burial-place of Nero, has many prelates' tombs, rich paintings, and a beau- tiful chapel by Raphael. 2 other high-domed chs. front on the Piazza. Hence ascend drives to the fa- vorite Roman park and promenade, on the Pincian Hill

ROME 343

(once LiicuUus's gardens), with grand views. The Villa Medici (1540) is now seat of French art-aca- demy and collections (open daily, except Sat.). The Villa Sorghese, outside Porta del Popolo, has lovely gardens, with Raphael's villa, and a casino devoted to sculptures (including Canova's Pauline Bonaparte) and paintings.

The Piazza di Spagaa contains Bernini's Bar-

caccia fountain; Pius IX's Column of the Immaculate

Conception (with 5 statues); the Palace of Spain

(Spanish embassy) ; and College of Propaganda Fide

(1663). The famous Spanish Staircase ascends hence

Ito SS. Trinita de' Monti (1495), a stately ch. with

many paintings and charming music (by nuns). At

foot of Spanish Stairs, on left, is the house in which

Keats passed the last 4 months of his life, and in

which he died on the night of February 23-24, 1821.

A commemorative tablet is placed on the house on a

llevel with the apartment occupied by Keats and his

friend and devoted nurse, the painter Joseph Severn,

who is buried beside him in the Protestant cemetery.

[This house is now owned by the Keats-Shelley

! Memorial Association, and was purchased by a fund

j contributed by English and Americans. The rooms

I of the Keats apartment have been fitted up by addi-

Itional funds furnished by Americans and are devoted

J in large part to a library of the works, portraits and

'other memorials of Keats and Shelley (open daily,

1 50c.) One of the rooms, furnished by members of

;the New York Stock Exchange, is dedicated to the

J memory of the late Edmund Clarence Stedman.

The Corso is over 1 M. long, on site of Via Fta~ minia. Leaving Piazza del Popolo, it passes Palazzo Rondanini, with unfinished Pieta by Michael Angelo; Goethe's house (No. 20); great Hospital of hicur- doles (founded 1338); Palazzo Ruspoli (1586); S.

344 PALACES ON THE CORaO.

Lorenzo in Lucina (in Piazza to r.), with tomb of N Poussin; Palazzo Fiano ; Palazzo Teodoli ; S. Sil vestro in Capite (built 757-67), and English Ch (1874) in side-street; old Palace of Knights ofMaUa-y Palazzo Torlonia ; and Palazzo Chigi (1526), with val uable art-colleclioiis and library. Here opens the handsome Piazza Colonna, with the Column of Mar- cus Aurelius, 95 ft. high, adorned witii spiral reliefs o^ Aurelius's wars on tiie Danube. On one side sei palace with fine Ionic columns from Etruscan Veii beyond which is Piazza di Monte Cittorio, with Italia^ "Parliament House, in palace built by Bernini. I front, note obelisk, brought by Augustus from Egyp' Other two sides of Piazza Colonna are formed by P lazzi Piombino and Eerajuoli. Earther down Cor& on little square, is very handsome Palazzo Sciarra- Colonna, with a fine picture-gallery. Earther on, opposite Palazzo Simonetti, see ch. of S. Marcello (a.d. 499), with ancient paintings and Consalvi's tomb. Next comes (on r.) vast and splendid Palazzo Doria (open Tues. and Eri. : i 1.), with large arcaded i courtyard, and gallery of 800 paintings (catalogues in (] each room), including works of Kaphael, Claude, Titian, Poussin, etc. Opposite is Palazzo Salviati, back of which is Colonna Palace. Beyond the Palazzo Bonaparte (in which died the mother of Napoleon I.) is the Piazza di Venezia, at end of Corso, on which fronts the imposing castellated Palazzo di Venezia (1455), which Pius IV. gave to Venice (now Austrian embassy). Near by, see Palazzo Torlonia, famous for its works of art ; S. Marco (a.d. 325 ; rebuilt in 833), with mosaics and paintings; popular and gorgeous Jesuit Ch. of Gesu( 1568-77), lined with costly marble, with columns of lapis lazuli and gilded bronze, many statues, and tomb of St. Ignatius Loyola. Adjacent is the former Jesuit monastery, with Loyola's ceil, etc.

ROME. 345

The Tomh of Augustus (i 1."), where Augustus, Mar- ■ cellus (see Virgii), and other emperors and princes iwere buried, afterwards became a fortress of the IColonnas, and a ring for bull-fights, and is now but partly preserved, near the Ripetta,or harbor for barges and steamers. The Palazzo Borghese (1590) is a huge and splendid palace, with arcaded courts. The picture-gallery has been removed to the Casino of the Villa Borghese, outside of the Porta del Popolo (daily 11-5, adm. Ifr.; Sun. 10-1, free).. In this wonderful collection see especially Domenichino's Sibyl and Diana, Titian's Sacred and Profane Love, Raphael's Entombment, Madonna, and Uaesar Borgia, and Correggio's Danae.

The Quirinal Palace (1574-1605), on high and healthy ground, was a favorite summer-home of the Popes until 1870, since which the King of Italy has occupied it. Pius VII. was imprisoned here in 1809 by Napoleon ; and here he died in 1833. See frescos in Sala Regia; Pauline Chapel, a fac-simile (in form) of the Sistine ; Audience Hall ; frescos by Raphael, Overbeck,etc. ; and apartments of Napoleon, Emperor Francis I., and Kmg Francis II. of Naples. In front is Piazza di Motile Cavallo, with obelisk, great g:ranite fountain, and two famous colossal marble groups, the Horse-Tamers, formerly in Baths of Constantine. Near Quirinal stands Consultd Palace, now Govern- ment offices; Palazzo Rospigliosi (1603), with casino (Wed. ancl Sat. ;15^T, fun~of priceless pic- tures, including Guido's Aurora; S. Silvestro ch., with Domenichino's frescos; mediaeval Milizie and Conti towers.

Beneath Ch. of Cappuccini tourists visit vaults con- taining 4,000 desiccated bodies of Capuchin Monks, many in robes, others used in ghastly decorations, la

346 BATHS OF DIOCLETIAN.

rear of monastery is Villa Ludovisi, along city-^a^ with Juno Ludovisi, Guerciuo's Aurora, etc., in its embowered casinos. Across Piazza Barherini (see Bernini's Triton Fountain) is great and splendid Pa- lazzo Barberini (1624), with noble halls, antique sculptures and Picture-Gallery (open daily, 12-5), containing Raphael's Fornarina, the so-called Gui- do's Beatrice Cenci, etc. In the great hall,- see Pietro da Cortona's fresco, " The Triumph of Glory." The library was added to the Vatican Library in 1902.

On Piazza di SS. Apostoli, see ch. (555 ; restored 1872) with monuments byCanova; Valentmo, Odes- calchi, and Buffo Palaces ; and Palazzo Colonna (1417), with splendid halls and gardens, antiques. Gobelins, and several halls filled with fine old j)ictures (open daily, 11-3 ; names of pictures on frames).

The Baths of Diocletian, near rly.-stat., were once the largest in Borne, 6,000 ft. around, with 3,000 bathers daily. Built in 4th century by enslaved Chris- tians. One of the great vaulted halls was made into Ch. of S. Maria deqli Angeli, by Michael Angelo (1561). It is 350 ft. long and 96 ft. high, with 16 columns (40 ft. high) of Oriental granite, HoucTon's statue of St. Bruno, Domenichino's wonderful frescos, and tombs of Salvator B,osa and Carlo Maratta. Other halls of the Baths are now military storehouses, etc. ; as also is Carthusian Monastery, one of whose cloisters has 100 columns, and was designed by Angelo. A fragment of the Wall of Servius is in the rly.-stat.

The Patriarchal Basilica of S. Maria Maggiore is on the Esquiline, between 2 squares, adorned with an ancient obelisk, and a column 46 ft. high, with bronze statue of Madonna. First ch. here built by Pope Liberius (in 352), on ground indicated by miraculous fall of snow in August, x^resent nave (279 X 57 ft.)

ROME. 347

built in 432-40, with 42 marble Ionic columns (from Temple of Juuo), and 5tli-ceutury mosaics on archi- trave, walls, and arch. Impressive fayade, with 5 por- tals, statue of Philip IV. of Spain, and interesting old mosaics. See high altar, a porphyry sarcophagus coa- taining St. Matthew's remains, with canopy on 4 porphyry columns ; Borghese Chapel, with altar of lapis lazuli and agate, and Madonna painted by St. Lulce ; Chapel (witli 10 porphyry columns) contaniing manger- cradle of Christ : tombs of 6 popes ; sumptuous Six- tine Chapel, and others. The first gold brought from America was given to the Pope by Perdinand and Isabella, and used in decorating this ch. Like St. Peter's, this magnificent temple, so rich in gems and mosaics, should be visited several times.

Near by, see S. Antonio Abate, the ch. where do- mestic animals are blessed on third week in Jan. ; Triumphal Arch of Gallienus (a.d. 262) ; S. JEusehio, frescoed by Raphael Mengs ; tower of Aqua Claudia; S. Prassede (8S2; restored in 1450 and 1869), with 9fch-century mosaics, column at which Christ was scourged, bones of Sts. Praxedis and Pudentiana, and Chapel of Garden of Paradise, with mosaics on gold; *S'. Pudenziana, on site where St. Peter lived, with 4th-century mosaics (3,000 martyrs are buried bs- neath) ; aS'. Martino ai Monti (500), a basilica with 43 antique columns, and frescos by Poussin ; and S. Pietro in Vincoli (442), built by Empress Eudoxia to receive St. Peter's chains, with 20 antique Doric columns, fine bronze doors, and Michael Angelo's famous statue of Moses.

The Pantheon is the best preserved of the old Roman buildings. It was built by Augustus's son-in- law, Agrippa, e.g. 27 i burnt under Titus and Trajan; restored by Septimus beverus and. Caracalla; cons©-

Ms THE PANTHEON.

Crated by Boniface IV., in 609, as Ch. of *S'. Maria ad Martyres • deformed by its 2 campaniles, by Bernini; stripped of ius bronzes by Urban VIII. ; and restored by Pius IX. Great excavations are now in progress, revealing Roman works and buildings. The vast round walls of brick, 20 ft. thick, were once covered with marble. The portico (now below, but once above, the square) has 16 huge monolithic columns of Oriental granite, 39 ft. high, with Corinthian capitals of famed beauty. Statues of Augustus and Agrippa once stood here. The circular interior is very impres- sive ; and is lighted from a place 28 ft. across in the centre of the dome, open to the sky. This unrivalled dome is 140 ft. high and 140 ft. across. It was ascended by Charles V. in 1536. The gilded bronze roof-tiles were carried to Constantinople in 655 ; and all the other bronzes were used in making cannon for the Citadel and the canopy in St. Pete/s, The 7 niches in which statues of the gods stood are now occupied by altars. Raphael is buried here, near his betrothed, Cardinal Bibiena's niece. Here also rest Peruzzi, Giovanni da Udine, Annibale Caracci, and Perino della Vaga; and here is the tomb of King Victor Emmanuel of Italy.

The Gothic S. Maria sopra Minerva, back of Pan- theon, was built in 1285 on site of Temple of Minerva, and contains tombs of Bembo, Era Angelico, Urban VII., Paul ly., Leo X., and Clement VII ; Michael Angelo's Christ, and many choice works of art. Adja- cent Government building was headquarters of Do- minican Order, in which Galileo retracted his statement about the earth's motion. Great library here, 120,000 vols, and 4,500 MSS. Close by, see S. Ignazio (1626), and Gollegio Romano, in which is famous Kircheriau Museum of arctiasology (9-3 daily ; 1 L).

ROME. 349

S. Andrea della Valle (1591) has tombs of Pius 11. and III., and Domenichino's celebrated Evangelists. Near by, see Palazzo Vicloni, designed by Raphael; Palazzo Massimi alle Colonne (1536), with statue of Discus-thrower ; great Palazzo Braschi ; Pasquino statue ; ruins of Pompey's Theatre ; Chiesa Nuova (1605), with paintings by Rubens, monastery, and great library ; Palazzo della Cancelleria, very elegant, de- signed by Bramante ; h\x.?,j Piazza di Campo dei Fiori ; vast Palazzo Farnese (Fri., 10-2), built by SangaUo and Michael Augelo in 1534-45, now belonging to the French Government, and splendidly frescoed by Anni- bale Caracci (Triumphs of Ariadne and Bacchus); Pa- lazzo Spada alia Eegola (1540), with great collections of antique sculptures and paintings (Mon., Wed., Sat.j ^-3) ; and many other famous chs. and palaces.

The great Piazza Navona has 3 interesting foua. ;ains, and is bounded by the Lancelloti, Ornani, Braschi, and Pamfili Palaces ; S. Maria delV Anima (1514), Get- man national ch., with mausoleum of Adrian VI. ; an^ the Spanish national ch. Near it is S. Maria della Pace (1481), containing Raphael's Sibyls (1514). Pine cloister (1504) adjacent. S. Agostino (1483 ; re- stored in 1860) has tomb of Monica, Augustine's mother, and Raphael's famous Prophet Isaiah (1512). Adjacent is old monastery. In Piazza S. Apolli?tare, see ch. 'J552) with Perugino's Madonna, Seminario Romano school, and handsome Palazzo Altemps. S. Lnigi de' Frances! (1589), on square with Patrizi, Madama, and Giustiniani Palaces, has many notable paintings. Near by is University of the Sapienza, founded 1303, and now having 4 faculties and a library (Alessandrina) of 90,000 vols. S. of the Gesii, see many pakces and chs. ; the Tortoise (^Tartartighe) Pountain ^585); Palazzo Cbif^^zyw^/ (1590), with Albano's and

350 CASTLE OF ST. ANGELO.

Guei'cino's frescoes ; Palazzo 3fattei (1616), with many statues in court ; Palazzo Cenci, where Beatrice Cenci lived ; the Ghetto, pulled down in 1887, once the quarter of the Jews ; Colonnade of Octavia, built by Augustus in honor of his sister ; Theatre of Marcellus (b, c. 13), 12hugh arches only remaining ; and palaces of the Orsini and Savelli.

From the Bridge of St. Angelo to the Vatican. — The 5-arched Ponte S. Angelo was built by Hadrian (a. d. 136) and named Pons ^lius. 10 colossal angel- statues by Bernini (1688) adorn its parapets. At the end rises vast round Castle S. Angelo (fee,l 1.), built by Hadrian for a mausoleum (with colossal statue on summit), where the Antonines and other emperors and their families were buried. Later, it was a fortress; whicli repelled dreadful sieges, as when the Greeks (in 537) threw down its statues on the assailing Goths; and a prison, where Beatrice Cenci, Benveuuto Cellini, Gagliostro, Pope John X. (suffocated here), etc., were shut up. Very interesting interior, tomb chambers, inclined planes, cells, papal suite (where Clement VII. took refuge when Bourbon's troops sacked Rome), and grand view from top, on which see bronze angel, com- memorating Gregory the Great's vision of Archangel Micliael sheathing his sword on this spot, after which the nlague ceased to devastate Rome (hence name of castle) A covered way runs hence to the Vatican. Near by is enormous S. Spirit© Hospital, for sick, aged, lunatics, and foundlings (open 2-4), accommo- dating nearly 5,000 persons. The Borgo Nuovo leads by several chs. and palaces [G-iraud, Ricciardi, etc.), and the Piazza RnMicMcn, where Raphael died, to the mag- nificent St. Peter's Square {Piazza di S. Pietro), 1110 X 840 ft. in area, surrounded by imposing Doric colonnades, built by Bernini in 1667, and composed of

ROME. 351

384 columns and 90 pilasters, each 41| ft. high. On the roofs are 126 colossal statues of saints. In centre of square (or rather circle) stands an Obelisk brought by Caligula from Egyptian lleliopolis, and set up here in ISl^S": 2l1; e;;ic;li side is a handsome fountain (4(3 ft. high). Entrance to St. Peter's in front ; to the Vatican, to the r., at end of colonnade. St. Peter's was built by Co3i&taatine^(A.D. -826'), on site of Nero's circus, where St. Peter was martyred, and surrounded by ricli chs., convents, etc. Charlemagne and many emperors and popes were crowned there. In 1450-1620 the present eh. was built, having among its architects Bramante, Raphael, Peruzzi, Michael Angelo (from his 72d to 79tli year), Fontana, and Bernini. It cost over ^60,000^000 ; took 176 years (the reigns of 28^ popes) to build; and covers 240,000 sq. ft., being the largest ch. in the world. Total length, 696 ft.; length of transept, 450 ft.; length of nave, 619 ft. ; width of nave, 88 ft. (height, 158 ft.) ; height of dome and cross, 470 ft. ; diameter, 141 ft. Fa9ade (finished in 1612), 869 ft. long, 165 ft. high, crowned bv statues of Christ and Apostles, each 19 ft. high. Portico, 284 X 43 ft. (66 ft. high), with colossal statues of Constautine and Ciiarleinagne, Giot- to's mosaic of La NaviceUa, and brazen central doors (made in 1447). Interior has 80 altars, 148 columns (mostly from ruins of ancient Rome) ; inlaid marble pavement (see stones showing length of other great chs.), brilliantly gilded vaulting upheld by Corinthian pillars and piers, famous bronze statue of St. Peter enthroned, many colossal statues of saints, vast in- scriptions and pictures in mosaic, canopy 95 ft. high made by Bernini (1638) of bronze from Pantheon, high altar over tomb of St. Peter (which is approached by marble stairs, and surrounded by 112 ever-burning lamDs), wooden throne of St. Peter, many vast and

352 THE VATICAN.

beautiful chapels, tombs of the popes, many paintings by great masters, and statues by Michael Angelo, Canova, Thorwaldsen. See tombs of Maria Sobieski, several Stuart princes, Palestrina, Christina of Sweden, etc. In Sacristy (1775), see 3 chapels, many rarf pictures by Giotto, etc. In Treasury, see candelabra by Cellini and Angelo, Charlemagne's dalmatic, and i rare jewels. The Crypts are very interesting, with many chapels, mosaics, carvings, and tombs. 137 popes were buried in St. Peter's. The Dome (open daily, 8-10), 630 ft. around, rises 308 ft. above the roof (^to which, 142 steps). Look down into ch. from inner gallery. Stairs between inner and outer dome to Lantern (grand view over Rome and Campagna), whence you may climb into ball under cross (large enough to hold 16 persons). Walk around the ch., outside, to see its vast propor- tions. At its side and rear, see ancient German ceme- tery and hospice ; and Palace of the Inquisition ^now barracks).

The Vatican, the largest palace in the worla, ad- joins St. Peter's, and has 20 courts and 11,000 halls and rooms. Pope Symmachus founded first papal palace here in 498 ; and Charlemagne dwelt therein. After return from Avignon the popes lived here, desert- ing the Lateran; and after 1450 the palace was en. larged by successive popes, from designs by Bramante, Bernini, etc. Notice singular uniforms of Swiss guards, designed by Michael Angelo. Ascend splen- did Scala Regia to Sistine Cliapel, built and named for Pope Sixtus IV. in 1473, 133 X 45 ft. in area (best light at morning). Erescos by Signorelli, Botticelli, €tc. Magnificent ceiling, frescoed by Michael Augelo ((1508-11), Creation, Fall, Deluge, Prophets and 'Sibyls, etc. On altar-wall, 64 ft. wide, Angelo's terri- ble and incomparable Last Judgment. See Pauline

ROME. 353

ChapeC (1540), Tt'ith other frescos hj Angelo ; Sala Ducale, frescos by Brill; and Scda Regia, historical frescos by Vasari, etc. The Loggie are adorned with Biblical scenes, from Raphael's designs, and beautiful stucco work. Raphael's Stanze are 4 rooms con- faiuing the noblest frescos of Raphael (1508-20), the Disputa, Parnassus, School of Athens, Heliodorus^ Attila, Liberation of St. Peter, etc. The Chapel of i^icholas V. has spiritual frescos by Pra Angelico (1447). The Picture-Gallery contains paintings taken by Napoleon from the Roman chs., and placed here when brought back from Paris. See Raphael's Transfiguration and Madonna di Foliguo, Domeni- chino's St. Jerome, and works of Leonardo, Pra An- gehco, Titian, Guido, MurUlo, etc. The Museum of Sculptures (closed Mou. and Tbur., 2-4) contains 1,800 pieces, including Apollo Belvedere, Perseus of Canova, Laocoou, Tuno, Minerva Medica, Mercury, Torso, Penelope, Eros, etc. See also porphyry sarcopha- gus of Empress Helena ; Braccio Nuovo hall, with 16 splendid ancient columns (alabaster, etc.) ; Belvedere Court; Sola delle Muse, with 16 Carrara-marble col- umns ; Sala Rotonda, on model of Pantheon ; Hall of Greek Cross; magnificent Tapestry of Raphael (1515-16), representing Bibhcal scenes ; Gregorian Museum of Etruscan Antiquities, in 12 rooms ; Bgyptian Museum, 10 rooms; Library and Archives, 200,000 vols, and 34,000 MSS. (many of them very precious); papal ma7iufaGtory of mosaic, where 10,000 colors and shades of glass are used ; and gardens of Vatican.

Stroll down the riverside Lungara, nearly 1 M. long, joining the Leonine City (where are St. Peter's and the Vatican) to Trastevere. Passing under Gate of the Holy Spirit, ascend to S. Onofrio ch. (1439), with tombs of Tasso and Mezaofanti A.djaoent moa-

354 TRASTEVERE. — JANICULAN HILL.

astery lias Leonardo's Madonna, Tasso's cell and oak. Farther down Longara, see fine Palazzo Salviati (now civic archives) ; Botanical Gardens ; very beautifru- Villa Farnesina (1506), with Raphael's famous fres- cos of Psyche and Galatea ; and Palazzo Corsini (open daily 10-4, adm. 1 fr.), with 9 halls of paint- ings, 8 of books and MSS., and a garden of rare beauty. Enter^ by Porta Settimiatia, into Trastevere (from Trans-Tiber), a quarter whose inhabitants claim to be direct descendants of the ancient Romans. See 12th- century basilica of S. Crisogono, near which mosaic- paved and frescoed house of No. 7 company of old Koraan (3d-century) fire department ; S. Maria Traste- vere, built by Calixtus I. (a.d. 217), with 22 antique columns, mosaics, etc. ; St. Cecilia (a.d. 222), with mosaics, broad court, portico on African-marble col- umns, and tomb of St. Ceciliaj whose house stood on this site.

On the Janiculan Hill over Trastevere, command' ing a noble panoramic view of Rome and mts., see S. Pietro in Montorio (1500), on site of St. Peter's martyrdom, with many ancient paintings; Tempietto (1502) in court of adjacent monastery, with 16 Doric columns ; Acqua Paola, a magnificent old fountain, outlet of Trajan's aqueduct ; S. Pancrazio Gate (fine views near) ; and Villa Doria Pamfili, a very lovely park and casino. This trip over the Janiculan Hill should not be omitted.

Between Trastevere and tlie Ghetto, in the Tiber, is the Island of S. Bartoloninieo (ancient bridges 'from both shores), with Ch. of S. Bartolommeo (built A.D. 1000), with 14 ancient columns, on site of a heathen temple (^sculapius was worshipped here). The island also has ? large monastey, and ^ fountain- adorned square. ' "^

KOME. 355

The Capitol is reached by asr lialt stairs ham. Piazza^y^ Ara Cceli, with Egyptiau liows at base, aud marble Dioscari (Castor and Pollux), or Horse-Tamers, at the top. See, also, the Trophies oi Marius ; antique statues of Constautiue and Con? tan?- j and male and female wolves, caged. The Piczz^jt del Campidoglio, planned by Michael Angelo ^^d.&. f>ailt hj Paul III. (1536), has in 'ts centre the famouG and unrivalled antique bronze equestrian statue of MtirCiS Aurelius, anciently sup- posed to re^^reaeno Coa^ta'ilme, and placed before the Lateran from IISJ to 1538. The palaces on three sides were built or remodelled by Angelo. The Pal- ace oi t'iiG Coiiser-^^-tors (r. side ; open 10-3) con. taius halls of busts of celebrated Italians, Latin sculp- tures, Etruscan museum, great halls with frescos from Punic and Cimbriau wars, and a gallery of 300-800 paintings. In the Capitoline Museum (1. side ; open 10-3) see Marforio, the colossal river-god, and sarco- phagi ; hails of brou^es and urns ; ancient marble plan of llonie ; exquisitely fiue mosaic of Doves of Pliny ; 83 antique busts of emperors ; antique statues of the philosophers and gods ; and vast number of famous classic sculptures, including Capitoline Juno, Amazon, Antinous, rossO"antico Faun, Dying Gladiator, and Capitoline Venus (in closed cabinet). The Palace of the Senator, at end of square, was built in 1389, and adorned by Michael Angelo. It is now the town- hall. The campanile (1573) commands a fine view, and contains great bell. Just S. E. is the Tarpeian Rock. Streets lead from Capitol down into Forum. High over Capitol (long stairway), on site of Temple of Jupiter, is 9th-cent. Ch. of ^. Maria in Ara Cceli, with homely front, and interior adorned with 22 an- tique columns of assorted si^'.es, many paintings, chapel of the Bambino, tomb of St. Helena, etc- Adjacent is

356 TRAJAN'S COLUMN.

splendid Franciscan monastery (1251), with two courts, now a barrack. While hearing the monks chant in Ara Coeli (1764), Gibbon conceived the idea of his famous history.

The Mamertine Prison, between Ara Coeli and Forum (fee, ^1.). was built by the early kings of Rome, very massively. Here were slain Jugurtha, Vercingetorix, Joras, and Catiline's allies ; and here St. Peter was imprisoned (they show pillar to which he was chained).

Between the Forum and Tiber, see round 7th-cen- tury Ch. of S. Teodoro ; temple of Janus Quadrifrons^ built in Constantine's time ; 4th-century basilica of S. Giorgio in Velahro, with antique columns ; Arcu8 Ar- gent arius, built by merchants of adjacent Forum Boarium (eattle-market) to Septimius Severus ; mouth <)f great sewer of Cloaca Maxima; 3d-century ch. of 8. Maria in Cosmedin, on site and wilh columns ol King Servius's Temple of Fortune, and with handsome 8th-century campanile; round temple (of Yesta, or Hercules), surrounded by 19 (once 30) Corinthian columns; pretty little Ionic temple, now Cli. of S. Maria Er/iziaca; House of Rienzi (10th century) ; and Ponte Rotto (Pons jFmilius), with suspension-bridge filling place of arches swept away in 1598, leading to Trastevere.

Trajan's Column, 87 ft. high (138 ft. with base and statue of St. Peter), is surrounded with a spiral bas-relief, 3 ft. wide and 660 ft. long, on which are 2,50G human figures, illustrating events of Dacian war, Tra- jan was buried beneath. Stairs inside to top. Close by, see remains of vast Basilica Ulpia, built a.d. 111- 114, by ApoUodorus of Damascus, for Trajan, and once the grandest building in Rome. See, also, chs. of Nome di Maria (1683) and Loreto 0-5 07). Near by are frag-

EOME. 357

ments of Forum of Augustus, of "wliicli a massive wall, 450 ft. long, and 3 columns of Temple of Mars JJltor J remain. The Academy of St. Luke (open 9-3) contains I statuary by Canova and Thorwaldsen, and many fine ' old paintings, including veiled pictures by Titian, etc. This is a choice collection. Near by is an imposing I fragment oiNervas Forum.

Tlie Palace of the Caesars consists of enormous ruins on the Palatine, the original site of early Rome, where dwelt Evander, Romulus, Catiline, Cicero, Au- gustus, Tiberius, Vespasian, Odoacer, Theodoric, etc. Fifty years ago the Palatine was a hill of vineyards,, with convents, but the emperors of Russia and France- began excavations, which Italy has continued (open daily, adm. 1 f r. ; Sun. free) . Enter from Forum, and see Museum, with articles found lie re ; foundations of Caligula's palace; parts of Tiberius' s palace; hand- some private house of Livia, with mural paintings ; Fla- vian palace, built by Vespasian; platform of Temple of Jupiter Victor; colonnades; stairs hewn in rock; school-house; and other very interesting ruins. (Get local guide.)

The Forum Romanum was a marshy space be. tween the Capitol and Palatine, the battle-ground of Sabines and Romans, afterwards the centre of their state, embellished with many splendid temples and statues, the scene of many famous events, and seat of the councils- which ruled the world. After the fall of Rome, some of the temples became chs. and others were torn down for buildhig materials ; and the troops who came to the aid of Hildebraiid, in the 11th century, completed the destruction. Over this rubbish-heaped Campo Vaccina- (cow-pasture), fortresses and houses arose. In 1536, Paul III. began to clear the gi ound, but little was done uatil 1803. Since 1871 extensive works have been cai>

358 I <UtUM ROMANUM.

ried on. The original level was 30 ft. below the pres- ent. The remains of the Tabularium (built B.C. 87), vast vaults for archives and 3,000 bronze tables of de- crees and records, now serve as foundations for Palace of the Senator. See its ponderous arcades and gallery, and view over Forum. The marble Arch of Septimius Severus is covered with sculptures of the victories of Septimius, and his sons Caracalla and Geta, over the Parthians and Arabians. Erected in 203, it became a. medigeval castle ; was excavated in 1808. Back of it are remains of Temple of Concord (b.c. 866, restored by Tiberius), where the Senate sometimes met, and Cicero impeached Catiline. The tali white columns near by pertained to the Temple of Vespasian (once of Jupiter Tonans), built by Domitian and restored by Septimius and Caracalla. To the W. stand the Schola 'Xantha,th.e ■ home of the official scribes, and the Colonnade of the Twelve Gods (built a.d. 367, by an anti-Christian prse- f ect) . 8 granite Ionic columns in front of Vespasian's Temple, pertained to Temple of Saturn. Near by were the orators' tribunes {rostra), often used by Cicero. Two marble slabs from the rostra have beau- tiful reliefs. Remains of the tonih of Romulus with early Latin inscriptions were unearthed in 1899. The Column of Phocas was erected in 608, in honor of a Greek emperor. Near by, see Basilica Julia, 333 by 149 ft., built by Csesar, with parts of its many pillars remaining. 3 Parian-marble columns still stand on site of splendid Temple of Castor and Pollux (built B.C. 484 ; rebuilt a.d. 6). On E. are foundations of Tem- ple of CcBsar, where Mark Antony delivered his funeral oration. The Temple of Faustina (a.d. 141), with 10 marble columns, encloses the ch. of S. Lor- enzo in Miranda. An ancient burial vault was dis- covered here in 1902. Numerous vaulted passages beneath tho pavement of the Forum were discov- ered during the excavations in 1901. Seventh

ROME, 359

century ch. of S. Adriano is on site of Curia Hostilia. The Via Sacra, leading from S. gate of Rome to Cap- itol, lies 30 ft. below the road. The circular Temple of Uomulus is now the ch. of SS. Cosmo and Damian, with porpli3''ry columus, bronze doors, 6th-century mosaics, and tombs of saints. The Basilica of Comtariiine, origi- nally 300 by 264 ft. in area, has 3 stupendous arches remaining (beautiful view from top). Back of ch. qIS. Francesca Romana (iuterestiog tombs and relics) are ruins of once superb Temple of Venus and Rome, de- signed by Hadrian, who would be architect as well as emperor (a.d. 135). The marble Triumphal Arch of Titus, small, but very interesting and graceful, com- memorates the victories over tlie Jews, a.d. 70. It was a mediasval fortress of the Frangipani. See the bas- reliefs. Hence the Sacred Way descends to the vast building named, from colossal statue of Nero, tlie Colos- seum, Rome's chief marvel. It was founded by Ves- pasian and finished by Titus, Jewish captives doing the work (a.d. 80) ; 10,000 men and 5,000 beasts were slain at its inauguration ; the scene of countless fights of gladiators and wild beasts; and of magnificent celebra- tion of 1000th anniversary of Rome's foundation (a.d. 248) ; afterwards fortress of Frangipani, Annibaldi, etc. ; in 14th and 15th centuries a quarry, its fine ma- sonry being used to build Farnese, Cancelleria, S. Mar- co, and other vast palaces ; about 1750 redeemed, and consecrated to the Passion of Christ. It is an ellipse, \ M. around and 156 ft. high, with arena 279 by 174 ft. in area, which could be fiooded for naval combats : 50,000 spectators could be accommodatecL Duly ^ of the Colosseum now stands Yisit it by moonlight also. The adjacent Arch of Constantine, the most beau- tiful in Rome, commemorates the victory over Max- entius (311), the Pagan emperor, and stands on the

360 BATHS OF TITUS. — S. STEFANO ROTONDO.

Triumphal Way. The best of the many sculptures were taken from an older monument of Trajan. Pius YII. unburied this arch in 1804. Close by, see remams of sumptuous Baths of Titus (| fr.), on the Esquiline, on part of site of Nero's Golden House. Beautiful mu- ral paintings here, which suggested B-aphael's frescos in Vatican loggie. S. Clemente, the oldest ch. in Rome, is midway between the Colosseum and Lateran. Up- per ch. is a basilica, with 16 antique columns, old mo- saics, and rich canopy. The lower ch., built before 392, and damaged by Guiscard's Norman army (1084), has been excavated since 1858. It has 16 antique columns and 5th-c.entury frescos (very interesting). Still far- ther down are remains of St. Clement's (4th pope) house, discovered in 1867. (See Ilachettes guide- book.) Near by, on lonely Celian Hill, see ch. of SS. Quatro Coronati, to 4 saints martyred by Diocletian, ■ — very ancient, destroyed by Guiscard's Normans, and restored in 1111 ; S. Stefano Rotondo, the largest circular ch. in existence, built by Simplicius in 470 with 56 columns and many frescos of terrible mar tyrdoms ; La Navicella, rebuilt in 817, with manj columns of granite and porphyry, and 9th-century mosa. ics ; 5th-century SS. Giovanni e Paolo, with Passionist monastery and garden ; S. Gtregorio (575), 16 antique columns, part of St. Gregory's house, a bit of Servian Wall, and 3 very interesting detached chapels.

The broad Piazza of S. Giovanni in Lateratio has a red-granite obelisk 104 ft. high (with pedestal, 153 ft.), erected at Thebes, B.C. 1560 ; brought to Pome by Constaiitine, a.d. 357; and set up here in 1587. On one side. Women's Hospital; opposite which see Scala Santa, 28 marble steps (brought to Rome by Empresf Helena, in 326), by which Christ is said to have entered Pilate's palace, at Jerus^lem.^—Xhey are ascended on

ROME. 361

the knees only, and lead to very sacred chapel (1278). Here, alongside wall of Rome, and overlookmg Cam- pagna and mts., stands venerable basilica of S. Giovanni in Lateran, on whose front is inscribed Omnium urbis ei orbis eccledarum mater et caput. This is the Pope's cb. as Bishop of Rome ; at St. Peter's he is sovereign Pontiff of the world. Five ecumenical councils werp held here, between 1123 and 1513. Constantine built first ch. here, on site of palace of Laterani family. Present ch. built 1360-1734. Papade with colossal statues, bronze doors, statue of Constantine. Inte- vior has grand nave, with 4 aisles, inlaid pavement, inassive pillars with 21 statues of Prophets and Apos- tles, bronze statue of Martin Y., Altar of the Sacrament (with antique columns of gilded bronze), many fine old mosaics, Giotto's fresco of Pope Boniface VIII., mag- nificent Corsini Chapel (inlaid with precious stones), Torlonia Chapel (in white marble and gold), Donatel- Io*s wooden statue of St. John the Baptist, Bernini's Pietk, and the great Papal Altar, over which is a canopy containing heads of Sts. Peter and Paul. Beautiful 13th-century monastery court adjacent ; also octagonal Baptistery/, in which it is said that Constantine was baptized, with 8 porphyry columns, basalt font, bronze doors (1196), 7th-century mosaics, and 3 oratories Inbuilt in 461 and 640). In adjacent Lateran Palace the popes iwelt for a thousand years (to 1377). Pres- ent palace, ouilt in 1586; and in 1843 converted into vast and interesting museum (open 9-4) of antique sculptures. Christian sarcophagi and inscriptions (irom catacombs), and picture-gallery filling 8 rooms, with remarkable Latin mosaics.

S^ Croce in Gerusalemme, among lonely iields he+weeH. Aqua Claudia and Roman wall, is a 4th-cen- tury basilica, founded by Empress Helena, on earth

362 BATHS OF CARACALLA.

brought from Jerusalem, witli mosaics, frescos, tombs of saints, and the Inscription on tlie Cross. Cistercian monastery adjacent, with famous library. Also, ruins of Castremia?i Amphitheatre, etc. To N., ruins of 3d- century decagonal Temple of Minerva Medica, once rich in statues ; aud near rly., ^iS*. Bibiana (470), with an- tique columns inside. In casino of Villa Massimo, on Piazza Lateran, rich modern frescos from Dante, Tasso, and Ariosto, by Overbeck, Sclmorr, etc. Villa Wolkonsky near by.

The marble-clad brick Pyramid of Cestius, at Porta S. Paolo, is 116 ft. high (base, 98 ft. square), with chamber 19 X 13 ft., where the tribune Cains Cestius •was buried (b.c. 30). Close by are the Protestant Cemeteries, with graves of Keats, Severn, etc., and of the heart of Shelley. See, across meadows, the lonely Monte Testaccio, 164 ft. high, composed entirely of broken pottery, crowned by across (grand view hence), and cut into by wine-sellers' grottos. To the N., see ancient Latin Emporium, and quays of Marmorata ; also 3 chs. on Aventine : S. Sabina, built in 425, in basilica form, with 24 antique Corinthian columns of Parian marble, and open roof, and adjacent Dominican mon- astery (beautiful cloisters) ; 8. Alessio, very ancient, restored in 1317, with Hieronymite m.onastery adjoin- ing ; and S. Maria Aventina, with tombs of Xnights of Malta, whose priory is close by.

The Baths of 'Caracalla' (fee, 1 1.), nearly 1_M. from Arcli of Constantine (by 8. Balbina, a very ancient ch., with open roof), still show remains of their an- cient vastness and magnificence. They cover an area 1,080 ft. square, and could accommodate 1,600 bathers. Oaracalla was the founder (a.d. 312). Many famous sfetues were discovered hei-e. SdI©'' did view from roof. Near by, seer ch. of SS. Nereo ed Achilleo, built by

THE APPIAN WAY. 363

Leo Hi. in 300, on site of Temple of Isis, in basilica style ; S. Sisto, and convent of S. Domenif.o ; very ancient S. Cesareo ; and," near tlie closed Porta Latina, old clis. of S. Gioiianni, and a Latin tomb. Beyond Tomb of the Sclpios (^ fr.) and Columbaria, the street passes the mutilated Arch of Brusus (b.c. 8), and enters the Appian Way at S. Sebastian Gate.

The Appian "Way (called Regina Viaruni) was begun E.G. 312 by Appius Claudius, and ran to Capua, and afterwards to Brindisi, forming main route to S, Italy, Greece, and Egypt. By order of Pius IX. it. was excavated as far as Fratocchie, 11 M. ont, on rly. to Albano. Beautiful views all along, of Campagna, aqueducts, and Alban Mts. Beyond Domine quo Vadis ch., a path leads off to Temple of Deus Rediculus, a handsome little building of Hadrian's era ; the Grotto of Egeria ; a red-brick 2d- century tomb, or temple, now the ch. of S. JJrbano (with frescos of a.d. 1011) ; and the tombs on the Via Latina. On Yia Appia are Catacombs of S, Calixtus (fee, 1-2 1.), with tombs of St, Cecilia and many 2d and 3d century popes and martyrs, and 7th-century Byzantine paintings. Gata- combs of Domitilla and St. Pratextatus near by. \ M. beyond is very ancient S. Sebastiano ch., under which are extensive catacombs (1 1.). Farther on see remains of Circus of Maxentius, built in 311, 1,590 ft. long, with seats for 18,000 people. On hill beyond stands the famous Tomb of Ccecilia Metella, round, 65 ft. in diameter, and in 13th century a tower of now vanished castle of the Gaetani. Beyond, the Way is bordered by ancient tombs on either side, and the old Latin pavement is the road-bed. Noble views of the mts. and the far prolonged arches of Aqua Marcia and Aqua Claudia. 6 M. out is Casale Rotondo, a large tomb ; and it is 8 M. thence to Albano. Near 4th milestone is Tomb of

364: THE CAMPAGNA.

Beneca (so called), near site ot Seneca's housb, and also near ruins of beautiful little Temple of Jupiter, where many Cliristians suiFered martyrdom. 3 tumuli, 1 M. beyond, are thought; to be tlie tombs of the Horatii and Curiatii. At 9th nulestone are ponderous brick ruins of villa and tomb of Emperor Gallienus.

Excursions near Rome. — The Campagna is a great rolhng plain of volcanic earth, between the sea and the Sabine Mts,, with shallow ravines and low steep hills. Pools of water collect here in winter, and stag- nate in summer, giving forth the terrible malaria which makes Rome's vicinity so unhealthy. But every tourist should see Italy in her fair summer attire ; and an August sojourn may be made at Rome with safety, by taking due precautions. Trolley cars now run from Rome to Frascati, Albano, and Genzano.

The patriarchal and pilgrimage ch. of S. Lorenzo fu- ori le Mura, f M. beyond Porta di S. Lorenzo, on tomb of St. Lawrence, was founded by Constantine ; rebuilt in 578 ; remodelled in 1216 ; and restored in 1864-70. See bronze statue of St. Lawrence, in square ; fapade with frescos of founders ; 10th-century mosaic pave- ment ; 22 antique Ionic columns of nave, upholding open roof; lower and older ch., with 12 noble Corin- thian columns of pavonazzetto ; violet-marble columns in presbytery ; silver shrine with remains of St. Law- tence ; beautiful 13th-century cloister adjacent. Great cemetery near. In vestibule Pius IX. is buried. The basilica of S. Agnese fuori le Mura, beyond the Patrizi and Torlonia villas, 1^ M. outside Porta Pia, was built by Constantine, over St. Agnes's tomb, and restored in 625 and 1856. Beyond court, 45 marble steps lead down to the cli., with mosaics, inlaid altars, 16 precious antique columns, and tabernacle (with por. phyry columns) over alabaster statue of St. Agnes.

ROME. 365

Adjacent is S. Costanza, built by Constantine as tomb of his daughter Constantia, with dome resting on 24 columns of granite, porphyry sarcophagus of Constantia, and 4th century mosaics.

S. Paolo fuori le Mura, li M. from Porta S. Paolo (omnibus every half hour from Palazzo Venezia), on Ostian road, alongside the Tiber, is on site of a deeply venerated church built by Constan- tine, over St. Paul's tomb, and magnificently en- riched and enlarged by emperors and popes, but burnt in 1823. Present church, consecrated in 1854, of valuable materials and imposing proportions, is 390 X 195 ft. in area, and 75 ft. high (inside). Won- derfully impressive nave, and four aisles, with 80 enormous Simplon-granite columns, whose bases and capitals are of marble ; long lines of mosaic portraits of all the popes; and stained-glass windows. See alabaster columns given by Viceroy of Egypt ; malachite altars, given by the Czar; 5th century mosaics; splendid altar-canopy (1285); and rich chapels. Adjacent is beautiful (now secularized) Benedictine cloister (1220), surrounding orange- grove. 2 M. hence is S. Sebastiano (p. 363); and out on Via Ardeatina (1^-2 M.) are abbey and three chs. (393-1599) of Tre Fontane, where St. Paul was beheaded.

The handsome Ponte Molle, 1-^ M. (dull road) from Porta del Popolo, was rebuilt in 1815 on site of Mil vian Bridge, built B.C. 109, where Maxentius was slain, after being defeated by Constantine (a.d. 312), 2 M. out is Aqua Acetosa, a famous old mineral- spring, beyond the once sumptuous villa which Vig- nola built for Pope Julius III. Beyond Ponte Molle are the far-viewing rock-tombs of the Kasones, the Villa of Livia, and the famous Valley of Poussin.

Monte Mario, 1^ M. from Porta Angelica, is a bold hill (road to top), 476ft. high, commanding superb

366 TORRE DEI SCHIAVI. — ALBANO.

view of Rome, the Campagiia, tlie mfs., and tlie sea. There are several villas here, amoiip: which see Villa Mellini, famed for its prospect, and Villa Madama, de- signed by Raphael, and owned in turn by Clement YII., the Farnese family, and the King of Naples. See loggia, with frescos by Giulio Romano.

The Via Nomenlana leads from Porta Pia, 2 M., from which it crosses the Anio by an ancient bridge. 1-| M. beyond is the famous Mons Sacer; and the road is prolonged to the battle-field of Mentana (1867).

The Via Pranestina leads from Porta Maggiore to (2 M.) the Torre dei Schiavi, a favorite resort of artists. It is a large group of very obscure ruins, once pertaining to the villa of Gordian, and in Middle Ages used for a ch. and a castle. 3 M. from Porta Mag- giore, on Via Labicana, are the ruins of the mausoleum of the Empress Helena (now a ch.).

The Via Campana runs along the Tiber, from Porta i'ortese to (5 M.) the Vigna Ceccarelli, with scanty remains of temple and hall of ancient agricultural brotherhood of the Fratres Arvales, founded by the foster-brothers of Romulus, to invoke the Goddess of Plenty. Near by, see well-preserved Catacombs of S. Qenerosa ; also (near MagUana stat.), chateau of La Magliana, oace frescoed by Raphael.

The Via Salara leads from the Salarian Gate to (2:fM.) the ancient stone bridge over the Anio, de- stroyed by the Goths, rebuilt by Narses, and blown up in 1867. On far- viewing height close by stood Antem- nse, a town destroyed by Romulus ; and 4 M. beyond, near Castel Giubileo (built by Boniface YIII. in 1300), ai'e the scanty ruins of Pidenae.

Albano {Hotel de la Poste ; Ristorante Salus- tri) is 18 miles from Rome (1 hr. ; fares, 3 1. 90 c, ' 3 1. 10 c, 1 1. 90 c), by rly. across Carapagna, crossing

ITALY. 367

lines of aqueducts and Via Latina. Climb of f lir. (2^ M.) from stat. to Albauo (omnibus, -11.). Omni- buses run twice daily from Rome to Albano {2^ hrs.; 2^ 1.). You can also drive hither over A'ppian Way. At Albano were Fompey's Villa, Domitian's great Albanum, the vineyards whose wine Horace praised, and the mediaeval fortress of the Savelli. It has manv Roman relics, especially in the Villa Doria (open to visitors). The high situation of Albano (1,250 ft.) and its pure air make it a favorite summer-resort. The town is famous for handsome women. Beyond the Villa Barberini is the large papal palace of Castel Gandolfo, still pertaining to the Pope. Beautiful view from Capuchin Monastery. Good roads on. upper and lower galleries on E. of Lake Albano, an extinct crater, shaded with trees, and one of the love- liest of Italian lakes. The Romans (b.c. 397) cut a tunnel (still remaining) through the rock, and partly drained it, in obedience to an oracle. Alba Longa was near by. A magnificent arcaded stone viaduct, 1,020 ft. long and 192 ft. high (built 1846-63), crosses the glen from Albano to ancient Ariccia (^Martorelli^, a town and palace pertaining to the Chigi family. Roads lead through noble old forests to Rocca di Papa, a village near reputed camp of Hannibal. ThQ Via Tnumphalis ascends to crest of Monte Cavo (3,130 ft. high ; very broad view), where are remains of great Temple of Jupiter Latiaris, the chief shrine of the Latin League (Passionist monastery founded here in 1783). This region is described by Yirgil in last books of j^neid, where Juno, from Monte Cavo, observes the Latin ar-d Roman armies. Beautiful scenery toward Genzano {Torti), 3 M. from Albano, whence one overlooks the crystalline Lake ofN&mi, 2| M. around, and 300 ft. deepj in an extinct crater. Ovid speaks of this lako.

868 FRASCATI. - TIVOLI.

which was called the Mirror of Diana, from a temple of the goddess on its shore. Here Tiberius had a splendid vessel afloat.

Frascati {Frascati; Pajinelli), 15 M. by ry. from Rome (fares, 2 1. 70 c, 2 1. 15 c, 1 1. 30 c), is on a foot-hill of the Alban Mts., in a yery healthy climate. It has many fine old 16th century villas, among which see AIdohra7idini, with fine fountains and oak groves ; Falconieri (1550), with many pictures and pretty gardens ; Ruffinella, now owned by Prince Lancelotti ; Mondragone, now a Jesuits' school ; and Piccolomini, where Baronius lived. A shaded road leads hence to Tusculum, founded by Ulysses's son Selegonus, the birthplace of Cato, and favorite residence of Cicero. It held out valiantly against Hannibal, but was destroyed by a papal Roman army in 1191. See Roman amphi- theatre, recently excavated Villa of Cicero, reser- voir, Camaldoli Convent, and lofty Citadel (2,218 ft. high), with magnificent view. 3 M. distant, by a forest-road, is Grotta Ferrata, a Greek Basilian monastery (founded 1002), with famous frescos by Domenichino. Hence a guide will lead in 1-1 hrs. to Rocca.di Papa and Monte Cavo. 4^ M. distant is Marino, an old Orsini fortress on Alban Mts., captured in 1424 (and still held) by the Colonnas. Good pictures in the three chs. Three M. hence is rly. stat., 35 min. (2 1., H 1., 1 1.) from Rome. Pleasant road also to Castel Gandolfo and Alban o.

Tivoli (Plebiscito; Regina; Sihilla) is 25 M. from llome by ry. (ret., 4 1. 55 c, 3 1. 20 c, 2 1. 5c.) or car- riage (1-horse, 151. ; 2-horse, 201.), passing near Qrotto of Cervara. This was the ancient Tibur, founded 5 centuries before Rome, and conquered by Camillus, , B.C. 380. Here dwelt Maecenas, Horace, Propertius I and Catullus ; and here Zenobia passed her captivity, j

ITALY. 369

Augustus, Hadrian, and other emperors and nobles had palaces here. It is now a huddled town of 7,000 inhab. 1 M. out is Hadrian's Villa (get permit at Palazzo Braschi, Rome), once the finest in the world, with many imposing buildings, covering several square M. It was destroyed by Totila's Goths, and only the most fragmentary ruins remain. The beautiful circular Corinthian Temple of the Sibyl (probably dedicated to Hercules or Yesta) and the oblong Ionic temple adjacent (now eh. of S, Giorgio) command a fine view of the Falls. Path leads to Grotto of Neptune and Sirens' Grotto. The chief fall is 830 ft. high; tha smaller falls are Le Cascatelle. Many other fine bits of scenery here, and Roman ruins ; also. Villa Braschi^ overlooking Campagna, and Villa d' Este (1549), with very lovely gardens and ancient frescos. Many charming excursions hence among Sabine Mts. Monte Gennaro (4,800 ft.) may be ascended in 6 hrs. by bridle path. It is 11|- M. from Tivoli to Valley of Licenza. site of Horace's Sabinum farm. 23 Mo (5 hrs.) up Anio Valley is Subiaco {La Pernice), a mediaeval castle-crowned tov/n, built on remains of Nero's villa, and with very famous monastries of S. Scolastica and S. Benedetto, a vast group of cloisters on site where St. Benedict lived.

Palestrina, 22 M. from Rome (daily omnibus), 12 from Frascati, 4^ from Vaimontone stat., was the ancient Prceneste; conquered by Camillus (b.c. 380); headquarters of Marius; favorite Roman summer- resort (see Horace); scene of terrible wars between Colonnas and popes in Middle Ages; and since 1630 the property of the Barberini. See Cyclopean walls, immense but shapeless Roman ruins, Barberini Palace, Colonna fortress (1322), and vast view over Campagna.

Bracciano (Piva), 24 M. from Rome (omnibus alternate days, in 6 hrs. ; 4 1.), has a wonderful old

370 OSTIA. — NAPLES.

Gothic castle of lava, which Sir Walter Scott greatly admired. It was built by the Orsini, and is now owned by Odescalchi. Fine view from tower. Adjacent lake Is 20 miles around, and abounds in eels.

Ostia, 14 M, from Rome, near mouth of Tiber, once had 80,000 inhab., but now has scarcely 100. The Saracens were terribly defeated here about a.d. 850. See S. Aurea Episcopal Palace, and tombs, temples and baths of adjacent ruined city and seaport of classic age. 2 M. hence is very interesting Castel Fusano, a Chigi stronghold against pirates, 1^ M. from sea, in great pme-forest.

There are many other deeply interesting excursions near Rome. See Hare's Days Near Rome, Baede- ker's Central Italy, Murray, Haehette or Cook.

Naples, Baia, Pompeii, Sorrento, Capri.

Express trains, Rom^e to Naples, 5|- hrs, (fares, 84J1., 23^1.); ordinary trains, 9 hrs. (fares lower). Some travellers go from Rome to Civita Vecchia by rly., and thence by steamer, for the sake of the lovely « view entering the Bay of Naples. ■

Paris to Naples, via Turin, Florence and Rome, in 53 hrs. (fares, 246i fr., 203 fr. 10 c).

Marseilles to Naples oy sea, 181 fr., 128 fr. Naples is a convenient point of departure for Mediterranean ports. Steamships sail frequently for Alexandria, Tunis, Cagliari, Messina, Palermo, Genoa, Leghorn, and Marseilles.

Hotels : Bertolini''s; Parker^s; Bristol; Excelsior; MacpJierson's ; Eden ; Metropole ; du Vesuve ; de Londres ; Grand ; des Etrangers ; Splendid ; Santa Lucia; Grande Bretagne; Riviera; Victoria; Savoy.

Baggage is sometimes examined on arriving ar Naples, by excise officers, but formalities are slight.

NAPLES. 371

Conveyances. — Hotel omnibus, 1^1. ; public omni- bus, 20 c. Baggage, 20 c. a piece. 2-horse cab, 1 1. 40 c. ; 1-horse cab, 70 c. Smallboats from steamship to shore, 1 1. each person, 1^ with usual baggage. Pay no attention to extortionate demands, with which boatmen usually begin. Beware of beggars and people who offer their services.

A rly. runs N.-E. (124 M. ; 5-6 hrs.) from Naples across Italy, by Benevento, to Foggia, on the Adri- atic, connecting there with rly. to Brindisi and Taranto, on S., and Ancona and N. Italy, ^j this route it is 19-20 hrs. to Bologna.

The rly. from Rome to JSlaples passes Velletri, an ancient Volscian town (16,500 inhab.), with fine old Cathedral; Sgurgola, 4^- M. from Anagni, a famous old papal town; Ferentino stat.,3 M. from Ferentino, a venerable Hernician hill-town, with castle, cathedral and huge polygonal walls; Frosinone sta.t.,2i M. from beautifully situated hill-town oi B rosiiione, and 9-10 M. from very curious old Alatri, with cyclopean walls; Ceprano stat., 2|- M. from Ceprano, and the stat. for Falls of the Liris and Cicero's Villa ; Aquino, birth- place of Emperor Pescennius Niger, Juvenal, and Thomas Aquinas ; Cassino (or S. Germano), a busy town, with Koman amphitheatre, Varro's Villa, and tombs (a climb of 1^ hr. leads to the world-renowned and magnificent Benedictine monastery of Monte Cassino, with hospitable monks and peerless views) ; Teano, with great castle and Roman remains ; Capua, a town of 14,000 inhab., in broad plain of Campania Felice, with noble basilica, fortress, triumphal arch, ancient chs. ; and 8. Maria, on site of ancient Capua, with amphitheatre for 100,000 persons, and other Roman ruins. The rly. runs thence over the vast and populous plain of the Terra di Lavoro, to Naples.

Naples is a city of 500,000 inhab., with little of architectural or antiquarian interest, but blest with a

372 NAPLES. — CHIAJA.

swperb situation, mild climate, and beautiful enviro^is. It is built on the amphitheatrical slopes of hills, shelter- ing it from the N. wind, and nearly bisected bj the abrupt ridge ofS. Elmo and Pizzofaleone. Its view includes a semicircle of azure sea, the villages around the bay, and many picturesque hills. The busy and crowded Via Roma, still popularly called by its old name of Via Toledo, runs N. 1|' M. from Palazzo Reale, near the harbor. The vast and interesting

National Museum (open daily, 9-3, 11., children, ■| 1. ; no fees allowed ; free, Sunday, 10-1), is in old Spanish cavalry-barracks (1586), occupied by Univer. sity, 1615-1780. There is a good handbook. See 1,600 ancient mural paintings, from .Pompeii, etc. ; epigraphic collection ; long range of rooms with Egyp. tian and Etruscan antiquities ; finest existing collection of ancient bronzes, including Dancing Faun, Narcissus, Mercury, Sleeping Eaun, and bust of Seneca ; 18,000 small bronze objects from Pompeii, etc. ; immense collec- tions of ancient glass, terra-cotta, Cumaean antiquities, numismatic objects ; many marble and bronze statues, including Earnese Bull (restored by Michael Angelo), Earuese Hercules, Venus, Wounded Gladiator, Ocean, Elora, Nile, Earnese Juno, jEschines, Balbus ; famous mosaics of Battle of Issus and Triumph of Bacchus ; great collection of papyri MSS., from Herculanenm ; 7 rooms full of Greek and Italian vases ; and gems, jewels, food, and silver plate from Pompeii. The Pic- ture Gallery has 800 paintings, Neapolitan, Tuscan, Bolognese, lloman, Venetian, German, and Elemish, including several by Raphael, Titian, and Correggio. The Library (open 9-3) has 200,000 vols., 4,000 MSS., and many valuable autographs.

The Chiaja, seat of chief hotels for foreigners, is a narrow strip between the S. Elmo and Posihppo ridges

NAPLES. 373-

and tha harbor, with pretty parks (music at evening) along waterside. On E., projecting into the sea, is the black and gloomy Castel dell' Ovo (1154), often besieged, and now a prison. Thence Strada S. Lucia leads to Arsenal, through busy and interesting scenes. Overhead is hill of Pizzofalcone, over which one may pass, by the lion-guarded Victory Column of the martyrs for liberty, and the Miranda Palace, to the centre of the city.

The Palazzo Reale (its porter gives permits to al! the Neapolitan royal palaces) was built in 1600, by order of Philip III. of Spain, and rebuilt in 1837-4!l. It is 554 ft. long, with grand staircase, throne-room, and many fine old paintings and carvings, and view of harboi from garden. Opposite, across handsome Piazza del Plebiscito, is S. Francesco di Paola, a copy of Roman Pantheon, with 80 marble Corinthian columns support- ing dome, altar covered with jasper and lapis lazuli, and many modern pictures. Near by, see Palace of Prince of Salerno ( official residence ) , Eoresteria Palace, and Canova's equestrian statues of the Bourbons, Charles III. and Perdinaid I. Alongside Palazzo Reale is Theatre of S. Carlo (1737), one of the largest in tlie world. See public scribes in arcades ; and statues of Horse-Tamers, before palace-gardens. The great Cas- tel Nuovo, built by Charles of Anjou in 1283, and enlarged in 1442, 1546, and 1735, was the home of the Anjou and Aragon sovereigns, and the Spanish viceroys. See beautiful Triumphal Arch (1470), armory, and ch. of S. Sebastiano, with very famous picture. Close by, see Arsenal (1577) ; Porto Militare, with Italian iron-clads ; busy Porto Grande — the shipping harbor ; and Molo, a long breakwater, with battery and light-house (ascend this, for view) Across the square before Castle stands handsome Mtiidcipal Palace.

374 s/APLES. — UNIVERSITY.

S. Giacomx,^ degli SpagnuoU (1540) has splendid jnausoleum of Spanish Viceroy, Don Pedro de Toledo^ Near by is beautiful fountain, erected in 1695 by Duke of Medina Celi; also, Incoronata ch. (1352), with in- teresting Giottesqne frescos ; and Falazzo Fondi, with picture-si:allery.

The Monte Oliveto Benedictine Monastery (1411), on Via di Roma, is now a market. Here Tasso dwelt in 1588. In ch. see many notable old tombs and pic- tures. In the rear, see S. Maria la Nuova (1268 ; restored in 1596), with famous frescos and tombs ; and Post-Office, in beautiful old Palazzo Oravitia (1500). Farther along Via di Roma, see Palazzo Maddaloni (now a bank), with richly frescoed hall; and Palazzo Angri (1773), once Garibaldi's headquarters. Strada S. Trinita leads to r. towards Gesu Nuova ch. (1584), with many frescos (opposite is refectory of S. Chiara, with Giot- tesqne frescos) ; S.Chiara (1310), witli burial-chapel of Bourbons, splendid monument of Robert the Wise (1343), pulpit on 4 lions, and Madonna by Giotto; lofty and imposing S. Domenico (1285), on a square between palaces, and containnig 27 princely chapels, rich in Renaissance art, altar of Florentine mosaic, tombs of the Aragonese sovereigns, and of many nobles and prelates, banner and sword (and tomb) of Marquis of Pescara (Vittoria Colonna's husband), and many pictures ; cell and lecture-room of Thoma§ Aquinas (1272) ; Chapel of S. Seoero (1590), crowded with decoration, and containing remarkable sculptures of Man in the Net and Christ in Winding- Sh eet ; ^.S'. Angela e Nilo (1385); University (1224), in old Jesuit College, with 5 faculties, and very good library (open 9-3) • S. Severino e Sosio, with notable tombs and frescos, and beautiful cloisters in rear (adja* cent Benedictine monastery has pricsiess archives of

NAPLES. 375

Naples, 40,000 parchments, beginning a. d. 703); Pa- lazzo Santangelo (1466), with picture-gallery; Cas- tello Capuano (1231), once home of Hohenstaufen kings, and seat (after 1540) of Spanish and present law-courts; and Capuan Gate (restored in 1535), a noble piece of architecture. The Cathedral, not far from the Gate, was built 1272-1314, on site of Temple of ISTeptune. It is a basilica, with shrine and tomb of St. Januarius, many frescos, and tombs of 2 popes, 2 kings of hnngary, etc. Adjacent is S. Restituta, a basilica with Corinthian columns, and baptistery attributed to Constantine (a.d. 333); also, magnificent Chapel of St, Januarius (1608), rich in gold and silver, precious stones, and other adorn- ments, and enshrining the blood of the saint. 1^ M. beyond Capuan Gate are the great cemeteries, the Netv, with Doric ch., Gothic monastery, and 102 chapels; the Old, with 365 closed vaults for the burial of tlie poor; and the Protestant, with many English and American graves.

Between Castello Capuano and harbor, see SS, Annunziata (1757); Porta Nolana ; the huge Cas- tello del CarmiJie (1484), now a barrack and prison; S. Maria del Carmine, with tomb and noble statue of King Conradin; Piazza del Mercato (where Conradin was executed, in 1268), with three fountains; Carmine Gate, with .two massive towers; and a very extensive quarter, with scores of narrow and sinuous streets, crowded with picturesque Nea- politans, macaroni-pedlers, story tellers, fishermen, etc. S. Giovanni a Carhonara (1344), N. of Cathe- dral, has splendid mausoleum of King Ladislaus (1414). Farther ]S[. are Botanical Gardens and vast Poor-HJouse. Between Cathedral and Via di Roma, see >S'. Filippo Neri (1592), rich in paintings; S. Paolo Maggiore (1691), in whose cloisters are many ancient Roman columns; S. Lorenzo (1266), with.

376 CASTEL SANT' ELMO,

many frescos and fine cloisters (Petrarch and Boccaccio have been here) ; the Gothic aS'. Pietro a Maiella (1316), with monastery adjacent, now a school of music, where Bellini was taught, and Mercadante was director.

Opposite Museum stands Ginnado Vittorio Emanuele (1757), with 26 statues, and a statue of Dante in front. From 8th-century ch. of S. Gennaro^ enter the Cata- combs (fee, 11.), excavated by ancient Christians, and much broader and higher than those at Home. Myriads of dead have been buried here. Farther out is Capodimonte Palace (fee, 1 1.), built for the Bourbon kiugs (1738-1839), with long lines of state. rooms, many pictures, rich furniture, a large garden, and lovely views, f M. distant is the Observatory, on far- vie wing crest of Capodimonte.

Castel Sant' Elmo (1343), 876 ft. above the bay, is reached by a street from the Museum. It is a vast and ponderous fortress (now military prison) overlook- ing the city and sea. Close by is old Cavthusiau monastery of S. Martino (now part of National Mu- seum; open 9-5 ; 11.), built in 1325. See museum of majolica, ivories, etc.; very beautiful cloisters, sur- rounded by white-marble columns, and adorned with statues ; and magnificent ch., lined with choice marbles and mosaics, and adorned with famous paintings. Exquisite views from this monastery.

Excursions from. Naples. — Beyond the Chiaja and Villa Naziouale, witli tlieir statues, temples, and aquarium, the Mergellina extends along the shore, under Posilippo, with beautiful sea- views, and by nu- merous villas, and the insulated 17th-century Palace of Bonna Anna (now in ruins). Near the Chiaja stands ancient ch., in which is the great mausoleum of th^ poet Sannazaro The road W. from the Chiaja leads througli Grotta di Posilippo, a well-lighted tunnel id

ITALY. 377

the rock, "4- M, long, replacing grotta, now closed, cut through by Augustus, and mentioned bj Seneca. Over its E. end is so-called Tomb of Virgil (^ I.), a Roman tomb with recesses for urns. Petrarch and King Robert visited tliis spot, and planted laurel. Near bj was Virgil's villa, where he wrote the Eclogues and Georgics. Road through tunnel leads to Grotto of Sejanus (11.). ^ tunnel cut through the rocky ridge by Nerva (b.c. 37), and repaired by Honorius (a.d. 400). It is f M. long, and higher and wider than Posilippo tunnel. Near by, see many remains of villas of Lucul- lus, PoUio, and other Roman lords. Also, on islet of Nisida, site of villa where Cicero visited Brutus (b.c. 44), after he had killed Csesar; and afterwards of Queen Johanna II.'s villa (15th century). The Lake of Anagno (a crater; now drained) is f M. from fuorigrotta. (where see tomb of Leopardi, in ch.) ; and near by are singular ancient baths of sulphurous gas; also, Grotto del Cane, famous for carbonic-acid, whose effects are tried on unhappy dogs. It is 6 M. from Naples over this road to Pozzuoli, on site of Greek colony conquered by Rome, and later chief port of Italy, and depot of Oriental trade. Here Sylla died ; Hadrian was buried ; St. Paul sojourned 7 days ; and Cicero had a villa. See remnants of Temples of Serapis (formerly very splendid), Neptune (pillars rising from sea), and ^kx^Nym-phs ; many Roman tombs ; Piscina Grande, a great reservoir; Capuchin monastery (1580); Roman quay, now called Bridge of Caligula; Cathedral, with tomb of Pergolesi ; and Amphitheatre (1 1.), seating 30,000, where Nero gave gladiatorial combats before the King of Armenia, and St. Januariug was exposed to the hons. Near by, see Solfatara, a. low crater with warm earth, hot alum springs, and many fissures whence gases rise (last eruption of lava

378 tjAIA. — crMJS.

m 1198) ; and Monte Nuovo, a volcanic hill (now vine* yards) thrown up in 1538. To the W. lies Lah Lucrinus, whence the Romans obtained their best oys ters, and tlie Neapolitans get choice fish. Lake Aver, aus, a picturesque crater-pond, 1^ M. around, amid chestnut and orange groves, was held to be the entrance to the infernal regions, until Augustus made it a harbor by cutting a canal to Ihe bay. The fabled entrance to Hades is shown in adjacent Qrotto of the Siljyl (1 1.), a tunnel 840 ft. long. The Grotta delta Face, \ M. long, leads from W. shore towards Cumse, catting through intervening ridge.

The Baths of Nero are long rock-passages, containing hot springs, in whose waters eggs may be cooked.

Baia (Uegina^ was the most magnificent of summer- resorts in time of Cicero, Augustus, and Hadrian, and ivas praised by Horace. The Saracens destroyed it; and the Spanish viceroys built a castle and light-house an the site. Here are massive ruins of temples of Vquus, Diana, and Mercury, villas of Julius Caesar, Nero, and Hortensius, a splendid Roman reservoir, and other remnants of antiquity. To the S. is Cape Mi- Beno, near site of great Roman naval station of Misenum, and commanding a superb view. 1 M. from Baia is Lake ofFusaro, 1^ M. N. of which are ruins of great Cnmae, which was founded by Greeks (b.c. 1050), and had profound infljience in Italy, founding Naples, giving the Sibylline books to Rome, receiving the Tarquins, defeating the Etruscans, and finally con- quered by the Samnites and Romans. The Goth? restored it, but the Moslems destroyed the town ; and 6 centuries ago the Neapolitans annihilated it, as a den of pirates. Near l>y, see Acropolis, with fortifications and noble views ; half-buried Amphitheatre ; fragments of old temples; and huge brick arch of Arco Felice, U ft. high.

VE.«UVIUS. — HEKCULANirnM. 379

Pozzuoli, Baia, Cumse, etc., may be seen in 1 day by carriage (25 1. ; 1-horse carriage, 10-12 1.). Take guide from Naples (5 I.), to escape local annoyances.

Mount Vesuvius is about 4,000 ft. high, and 30 M. around, isolated on the Plain of Campania, and with 80,000 people living in its chestnut valleys. In A.D. 79 it had a terrible volcanic eruption (described by PHny and Tacitus), since which 60 or more have occurred, entailing vast losses of life and the annihi- lation of many villages and cities. Enormous losses were caused by the eruption of 1872. Of a crowd which watched its beginning, 20 persons were swept away and destroyed by the outbursting iava. The cable road now obviates much of the labor formerly neces- sary in ascent. Beautiful view from Ohservatory ; and from summit you can see a vast area of sea and land. Excursion from Naples to summit and return , 21 1. exclusive of fees of ofS.cial guidv. at summit.

Herculaneum, founded by Hercules, and later a town of Roman villas, was buried by an eruption of Vesuvius, AD. 79, and discovered in 1719, when a well was being dug. Since then, excavations have shown that 40-90 ft. beneath the present town of Resina is a large and splendid ancient city, whose statues, mural paintings, papyri, etc., are adorning the mu- seums. It was richer than Pompeii, but is much more deeply buried, and under a more impenetrable covering. Little has yet been excavated, but that little should be seen (2 1. for guide and torch). The residences and shops excavated in 1868 are very interesting; the theatre, though immense in size, is too dark to be well seen. ■^

Pompeii (Suisse; Diomede) is nearly 1 hr. from Naples (5 trains daily ; fares, 2 1. 75 c, 1 1. 90 c, 11. 10 c), by rly. passing through Portici (1^^,00^

380 _ POMPEII.

jihab.) ; Resina, near La Favorita, royal chateau, and at foot of Vesuvius ; and Torre del Greco, swept by 4 streams of lava witbin 300 years. Beautiful views of bay and volcano. Read about Pompeii before going there. Near Pompeii stat. is entrance to ruins (21.; guide furnished : no gratuity ; stay as long as you lilce). Pompeii was a Greek commercial city (b.c. 400-500), which was subjugated by Rome, and became a favorite resort of her nobles and emperors (with 25,000 inhab.). It was overthrown by earthquake, a.d. 63 ; rebuilt immediately; and in 79 buried under 20 ft. of ashes from Vesuvius, when 2,000 citizens lost their lives. Excavations were begun in 1748, and are still going on. The walls are 1^ M. around, with 8 gates. The streets are 14-24 ft. wide, paved with deeply rutted lava blocks, with stepping-stones and fountains at cor- ners. The concrete or brick lower stories of houses remain; the other stories were burnt. The shops, taverns, homes, street-notices, etc., are very interesting. Note Temple of Venus ; Forum, where main streets converged, with Temple of Jupiter, Prison, Basilica^ Triumphal Arch, Public Granary, Temple of Mercury y beautiful Chalcidicmn, Town Hall, Temple of Augustus, See House of Wild Boar in Street of Abundance; Triaiigular Forum ; the two Theatres; barracks of the soldiers; House of Sculptor ; Stabia Gate; Temple of Isis; House of Holconius ; vast amphitheatre ^ which seated 20,000. Thence visit Stabian Thermae, Balcony House, Houses of Siricus and Marcus Lucretius, of the Chase, of Ariadne, of Grand " Duke of Tuscany, of Figured Capitals, of Black Walls ; Temple of Fortune; Public Baths; Hoiese of the Vettii; House of the Faun; House of Anchor, of tragic Poet (Bulwer describes it in Last Days of Pompeii); Fuller'' s Shop; Great and Hittle Fountains; House of Pansa, of Labyrinth, of

CASERTA. — SORRENTO. 381

Castor and Pollux, of Centaur, of Meleager, Adonis^ Apollo; Academy of Music ; Bake-house; Soap-shop; Barber s Shop ; Custom House ; Street of Tombs ; and Villa of Biomedes (where several bodies were found), beyond Herculaneum Gate. There are many curiosities in the museums, especially casts of the bodies found in the ruins. You may ride hence on horseback (\\ hrs.) to cairn of stones on Vesuvius ; whence climb (1 hr. on foot) to summit (guide and horse, 101.).

Caserta {Vittoria), about 20 M. from Naples, on rly. to Rome, has a magnificent Royal Palace (1752), 834 ft. long and wide, and 134 liigh, with colonnaded courts, famous gardens and cascades, beautiful views, and sumptuous apartments. See chapel, highly en- riched with lapis lazuli and gold ; and theatre, with 16 antique Corinthian columns of African marble.

No one should leave Naples without having visited Sorrento, Amalfi, and Salerno. Uly, in 1 hr. (3 1. 10 c, 2 1. 15 c, 11. 25 c), along shore of bay^ to Castella- raare {Hotel Weiss; Quisisana), a famous Neapolitan summer-resort and Italian naval station (33,000 inhab.), near overwhelmed ruins of Stabise, and with 13th-cen- tury castle, royal chateau of Quisisana (on the hill), and Monte S. Angelo, 5,000 ft. high, with superb view (guide and donkey, 51.). Here also are famous sul- phurous and ferruginous springs. An excellent road (J\ M. ; carriage, 5 1.) between the mts. and Bay, leads hence, by Vico and Mela, and a delicious paradise o/ orange and olive groves, to Sorrento {G-ran Bretagna; jy Anqleterre ; Tasso, where Tasso was born, 1544: Sirena; Vittoria; Tramontano) , an ancient seaport on Bay of Naples, famous for exquisite scenery, and delightfully cool summ.er-climate (it faces N.). Quaint villages, ancient chs., natii:?! curiosities, villas and ^r)u vents, glens and myrtle-groves, ronkj islets and

382 CAPRI. — ISCHIA.

points, make this region very charming. Steamboats leave Naples (S. Lucia) at 9 a.m. daily, for Sorrento (61.; return-tickets, 101.), Capri (81.; return, 131.); and Ischia. Boat from Sorrento to Capri, 5 1., in two hours (bad trip in rough weather).

Capri {Tiherio and Quisisana, both kept by English people ; Pagano; Grotte Bleue),th.Q^^l'&\&TidL of Goats," is 4^ M. long, with almost unbroken lines of cliffs, and far- vie wing mts. 3,000 ft. high. There are 4,500 inhab., mostly farmers and coral fishers. Augustus and Tiberius built many villas and palaces here. In 1803 Capri was strongly fortified by the English; but Murat captured it five years later. On Eo see ruins of Villa of Tiberius, and the cliff, 700 ft. high, called Salto di Tiherio, whence the cruel Emperor forced his victims to leap into the sea. Near by is an inn. See Natural Arch; Grotto of Mithras; lofty village of Anacapri, with Barbarossa's castle ; and Monte Solaro, with superb view. The most celebrated of the caverns is the Blue Grotto, 106 by 80 ft. in area, and 40 ft. high, partly filled by beautifully azure sea-water, and lighted and entered only by a low and narrow aperture, where the sea beats against the cliff (boat, 2 1. for 3 persons; 1 1. for each additional). The White, Red, Green, and Stalactite Grottos are also visited by boat.

Ischia is a fertile island 15. M. around, with 35,000 inhab., devoted to vineyards and fisheries, with delightful summer climate, castle of Alfonso I. of Aragon, lovely village of Casamicciola (damaged in 1883 by earthquake), and grand view from top of quiescent volcano of Epomeo. Ischia has been ravaged by Romans, Saracens, Pisans, Nea- politans, and French; and was the home of Vit- toria Colonna and Maria of Aragon. Boat from Naples in two hrs. (fares, 5 1., 3^ 1.). Procida

SALERNO. — PJESTUM. — AMALFI. 383

is a neighboring volcanic island, 3 M. long, with 14,000 inhab., originally settled, like Capri and Ischia, by Greeks.

Salerno {Hotel d/Angleterre) is a picturesque old provincial capital (22,000 inhab.), 83^ M. from Naples (rly. fares, 6 1. 15 c, 4| 1., 2 1. 45c.), fronting on a magnificent bay, with fine quay, 1^ M. long, irregular medijEval streets, ancient Lombard Castle, and delightfully quaint old Cathedral (1084), with many antique columns, sarcophagi, and mosaics, and tombs of St. Matthew, Pope Gregory the Great, Margaret of Anjou, etc. The University was very celebrated in Middle Ages (see Longfellow's Golden Legend).

Paestum, 23 M. from Salerno, by railway over dull shore-plains, founded by Greeks, B.C. 600, and destroyed by Saracens, is a collection of the finest Greek ruins in existence (out of Athens), including Temple of Neptune, 189 by 84 ft., with 52 fluted Doric columns; Temple of Ceres, 105 by 45 ft., with 34 fluted columns; and Basilica, 111 by 80 ft., with 60 columns; well-preserved travertine town- walls 3 M. around; amphitheatre, Roman temple, Street of Greek tombs. Admission to temples, 1 1., Sun. free.

Amaifii {Luna), a lovely village (7,000 inhab.), where a great mt. -gorge opens on Gulf of Salerno, was once a flourishing commercial republic, rivalling Genoa and Pisa, but yielded to the armies of Naples in 1131. Near the Marina quay is the 11th-century , Cathedral, with campanile and cloisters, rich mosaics and Byzantine bronze doors, and tomb of St. Andrew. I A landslide in December, 1899, destroyed the ancient iCapucin monastery and two hotels. 1^- hour's climb leads to Ravello (once 30,000 inhab., now 1,500), with magnificent 11th-century cathedral and Rufalo Palace (here Pope Adrian IV. and Robert the

S84 SICILY. — MESSINA.

Wise lived), botli in rich Saracenic architecture, and crther notable chs. Amalfi may be reached from Sorrento, by boat and path, in 5 hrs. It is better to go there from Salerno (1^-2 hrs. ; 1-horse' carriage, 5-6 1.)^ over one of the noblest roads in the world, through 6 villages, amid, vineyards and orange and lemon groves, by Charles V.'s anti-Saracenic watch-towers.

Majori {Beau Site Hotel), near Amalfi, is a charm- ing spot.

Sicily.

This beautiful island may be conveniently visited from Naples, whence steamships run, several times weekly, to Palermo and Messina (15-22 lirs. ; fares, 40 1. 60 c, 24 1. 60 c, to either port), passing Capri, Stromboli, and the Lipari Isles. Travellers can avoid sea-trip by uncomfortable 26 hrs. (436 M.) rly, ride from Naples through Salerno; Eboli; Cosenza (Alaric's grave), with 18,000 inhab.; Tiriolo ; lofty Monteleo?ie, with 10,000 inhab. ; Mileto, whence Sicilian mts. are seen ; Palmi; and Scilla, where 1,500 persons were killed by "earthquake of 1783 (and near Homer's Scylla); to Reggie, once a ber.ntiful city of 35,000 souls, but totally destroyed, with the loss of 20,000 of its inhabitants, in the earthquake of December 28, 1908.

French steamers run from Marseilles to Palermo in 50 hrs. Italian boats from Grenoa to Palermo in 33 hrs. Steamers run round Sicily weekly, from Paler- mo, touching at chief ports.

Messina, formerly the chief commercial town of Sicily, with 150,000 inhab., had a magnificent situa- tion on an amphitheatrical slope, over a secure and well-fortified harbor. It was founded by the Greeks, B.C. 733; conquered by Samos, Athens (B.C. 427),

SICILY. - CATANIA. 385

Carthage (396 and 270), Mamertines, Rome, Sara- cens, Normans, English (Coeur de Lion), Spaniards, French and Italians ; often ravaged by fire, plague, and earthquake. These evil days had left it but few- antiquities. The Norman Cathedral (1098) had 26 antique columns, mosaics, royal tombs and sarcophagi; and in front was the splendid Montorsoli Fou7itain (1647-51). In the early morning of Dec. 28, 1908, Messina was again visited by an earthquake, the severest in its long history of disasters, which threw down or ruined nearly every building in the city, killing, according to the most trustworthy estimates, 100,000 persons, or two-thirds of the entire popula- tion. The towns on both sides of the Strait of Mes- sina, estimated to number at least 60, were at the same time more or less completely destroyed within a space of twelve seconds, 165,000 persons being killed. Ry. hence in 3 h. by Taormina^Q-iardini sta.), with grand ruins of a Greek theatre (whence famous view), acropolis and castle, and ducal palace; across lava fields of jEtua ; and by Aci-Reale, scene of adventures of Polyphemus, and Acis and Galatea; to

CatanieU {Bretagne; Albergo Centrale; Sangiorgi; DuGlohe), handsomest and most cultured city in Sicily (147,000 inhab., by the seaside, at foot of -ZEtna, and rich in palaces and villas, embowered in groves of orange. It was founded by Greeks, b. c. 780 ; and conquered by Athens, Carthage, Rome, the Goths, Byzantines, Saracens, Germans, and Spaniards, See Cathedral (1091), with tombs of 6 Aragonese sover- eigns, and of St, Agatha ; S. Carcere, with relics ; cloisters and gardens, museum, library of suppressed Benedictine Monastery of S. Nicola, than which there was but one more splendid in the world (all its monks were of noble blood) ; underground remains of Grceco- Uoman Theatre and Odeum (fee, 2 1.) ; Roman BatJis

25

386 MOUNT ^TNA. — SYRACUSE.

and Amphitheatre ; Roman Tombs ; University (1444). 500 students ; and public gardens of Villa Bellini, with Italian statues.

Mount JBtnsL (10,835 ft. high) may be ascended hence, by carriage (2| lirs.), to Nicolosi (20-25 1. there and back); whence 8 hrs. by lodge of Casa Inglese to summit (guide, 10 1. ; mule, 10 1.) ; return from top to Catania^ 8-9 hrs. It is best to sleep at Casa Inglese (at base of cone of crater), and reach summit before sunrise. There have been over 80 re- corded eruptions, one of which (1693) destroyed 80,000 lives. In 1886 the last occurred. The view includes all Sicily and surrounding seas, Calabria, Lipari Isles, and Malta. Rly. from Catania (54 M. ; 9 1. 85 c, 6 1. 90 c., 41. 95c.) to

Syracuse {Agradina; Villa Politi; G?'and), once the most important city in the Greek world, now a quiet I modern port (31,000 inhab.), with very charming envi- rons, a noble harbor, narrow and crooked streets, and beautiful women who wear picturesque costumes. It was founded by Corinthians, B.C. 734; defeated the Carthaginians and Etruscans ; repulsed the besieging Athenian fleet and army (b.c. 414-13), with terrible losses ; beat off frequent attacks from Carthage ; entertained jEschylus, Pindar, Simonides, etc. ; and was defended by Archimedes against the Romans (b.c. 914-12), but fell and was nearly annihilated. Paul and Marcian preached here. It has since been ravaged by Franks, Byzantines, Normans, and Spaniards ; and has never recovered from the Moslem destruction in 878. The inhabitants still preserve the Greek type. See Cathe- dral, on site of Temple of Minerva, with remarkable font and leaning pillars ; Museum (open 9-1, 3-5)., with fine Greek Venus, and other antiquities ; Foun- tain of Arethusa, famed in Greek m3rthology, and still

PALERMO. 387

surrounded Oy papyrus plants ; ruins of Temple of Diana; Castle ; and Montalto Palace. On mainland near by, see scanty remains of ancient Syracuse : Amphitheatre ; Latomice, or quarries once worked by slaves ; grotto C2iVLQdL Ear of Diont/sius ; Greek Theatre (480-406 B.C.); Fountain of Cyane, amid growing papyri; fragments of Temple of Zeus Olympius ; etc.

Weekly steamers lience to Malta in 8 hrs.

Palermo {Hotel de France ; Trinacria ; Des Palmes; Centrale), the capital of Sicily (315,000 inhab.), is very beautifully situated between Mt. Pellegrino and Cape Zaffarana, facing the sea, and has mild winters and intensely hot summers. It was settled from Phoenicia, fitrengtheued from Greece, fortified by Carthage, cap- tured by E-ome, and governed in succession by the Byzantines, Arabs, Normans, Germans, French, and English. On the beautiful Marina and La Flora prome- nades the Sicilian people of fashion congregate. The Cathedral (1169-85) is a great and imposing ch., with tombs of the Sicilian kings, and of Emperor Ered- erick 11. ; immense silver sarcophagus containing remains of St. Rosalia ; many statues and carved choir stalls; and crypt, with tombs of ancient archbishops. La Martorana ch. (12th century) has curious old Greek mosaics, Corinthian columns, and a tall campanile. See also S. Cataldo (1161), a Sicilian-Norman ch. ; S, Giovanni degli Fremiti, ia form of letter T, with 5 domes, and cloisters ; gorgeously ornamented Jesuits' ch, ; Norman S. Francesco d'Assisi ; and S. Domenico (1640), winch can hold 12,000 persons The Museum (open 10-3 ; 11.) contains many Sicilian-Greek statues and sarcophagi, Pompeian antiquities, and a picture- gallery, mainly composed of paintings by old Sicilian masters. The Uoyal Palace is Saracenic, with notable apartments added b.y King Po^er, Pobert Guiscard*

388 PALERMO. — MONEEALE.

Manfred, and Emperor Frederick II. Here also is magnificent Cappella Palatma (1132), the finest castle- chapel in the world, a basilica with Egyptian-granite columns, Saracenic arches, mosaics on gold, and many Arabian inscriptions. Superb view from Observatory, The great cloisters of the Spedale Grande (13bO) are covered with frescos. Note Gothic windows of Archi- episcopal Palace ; large Municipal Palace j University ; National Library (open 9-2) ; spacious and arcaded Paterno Palace ; Palace of the Tribunals (1307), long the home of the Inquisition; Ganzia Monastery ; rich Botanical Garden; and Porta Nuova, triumphal arch for Charles V.'s solemn entry after his victory at Tunis.

Monreale, 5 M. out, beyond Palace of Due d'Au- male, elegant old Saracenic palace of Cubola, Capuchin Monastery where Palermitan patricians are kept em- balmed, and rich gardens of Villa Tasca, is a large town which has risen around the Cathedral, founded by William II. in 1170. It is 333 X 132 ft. in area, with superb entrance ; bronze doors (1186) ; Saracenic arches ; cloisters supported on 216 columns ; and over 60,000 square ft. of magnificent mosaics, scriptural and historical. Monreale is 1231 ft. above the sea, and commands famous views. More than 1,200 ft. above is venerable Benedictine Monastery of S. Martino, with library, museum, and views. The celebrated Monte Pellegrino can be ascended in 2 hrs. See shrine and grotto of St. Rosalia, and immense sea-view. La Favorita is a splendid royal villa, beyond the so-called English Garden. Nearly 3 M. out is S. Maria di Gesu, a large suppressed monastery, with favorite view of Palermo. Ancient Saracenic villas and chateaux of modern Sicilian nobles abound in the environs.

From Palermo it is 96 M. by rly. (15i 1., 101. 70e., 7 1. 65c.) to

GIRGENTI. — CIVITA VECCHIA. 389

^ G^rgenti {Hotel Belvedere; Des Temples), chief town on S. coast of Sicily (21,000 inhab.). On mt. near by are ruins of Acragas (Agrigentum), which Pindar Ci!s,lled " the most beautiful city of mortals." It was founded by Cretans; had 200,000 inhab., and vast wealth ; was destroyed by Carthage, and became a Roman colony. Here are fairly preserved ruins of Temples of Juno (with 34 columns), Hercules (88 columns), Concord (34 columns^ Zeus (37 huge columns), and others; and walls, gates, cloaca), catacombs, tombs, etc., in great

, numbers.

Leghorn, Pisa, Lucca, Genoa, flonaco.

Tourists who have reached Naples by rly. had best ' return N. by sea. The Fraissinet steamships leave , Naples twice weekly for Civita Vecchia, Leghorn, ^ Genoa and Marseilles.

*' Civita Vecchia [Trajano ; Italia) is a fortified port of 12,000 inhab., founded by Trajan, and des- troyed by Saracens (in 828). Fortress built after plans by Michael Angelo. Rly. across Maremma to Leghorn. Rly. to Rome, 50^ M., in 2 hrs. (fares, 9 1. 20 c, 6 1. 40 c, 4 1. 60 c). Time of voyage from Naples, 12-14 hrs.

A voyage of 12 hrs., by Elba, leads hence to Leg- horn {Hotel d'' Angleterre Campari; Grand; Giap- pone; Bastia; Falcone e Patria), one of the chief Mediterranean ports (over 100,000 inhab.), fortified, well-built and modern. It was founded by the Medici family, as a refuge for the oppressed. See Hnglish Cemetery, with Smollett's tomb ; fine statues of three Tuscan Grand-Dukes ; venerated sailors' ch. on Monta. Nero; piers and quays, with busy and chattering srowcts, and handsome squares and Corso. Rly. to Pisa, 12 M. (2 1. 5 c, 1 1. 40 c, 11.).

390 PISA.

Pisa {Hotel Yittoria; Nettuno; Grand Hotel Min- erve et Ville ; Grand Hotel; Hotel Washington) ^ a quiet and beautiful town (50,000 inhab.) near the mouth of the Arno, and 50 M. from riorence (fares, 81. 80c., 61.20 c.). It was conquered by Rome, B.C. 180 ; adorned v/itli temples by Augustus and Ha- drian; became a rival of Venice and Genoa in Middle Ages ; defeated the Saracens in many naval battles ; became anti-Papal, and was defeated by Genoa ; and since 1406 has been subject to Florence. It is very hot in summer, but the mildness of its winters attracts many Northern visitors to the quaint and sombre old town. It is surrounded by picturesque walls ; and has 3 bridges, and a fine quay along the Arno, on and near which you may see, on N. side, many palaces and chs., including 13th-century S. Michel e ; University/ (1493), with Renaissance court (statue of Galileo) and valuable library ; Alia Giornata, Vitelli and Royal Palaces ; S. Niccolo (1000), once Benedictine, with statue of Per- dinand I. in front ; and Guelphic fortress, near Ponte » Mare. On S. shore, 12th-century S. Paolo, with handsome old fapade ; Benedictine monastery ; Gam- bacorti Palace, now custom-house ; /S. Maria della Bjiina (1230), a beautiful marble Gothic chapel, with fragment of Crown of Thorns ; round 8. Sepolcro; and the Fortress. Back from the river, on N., see S. Fran- cesco (1300), with campanile; Botanical , Gar den and Natural-History Museum ; /S'. /S'u/o (1089); ^Yidi Piazza dei Cavalieri, the old Republican forum. Here stand Palazzo de' Cavalieri, with statues, and S. Stefano (1565), ch. of Knights of Sto Stephen, with Turkish trophies and notable painting? The adjacent Acad- emy of Fine Arts (open 9-2jl was founded by^iNapo- leon I., and contains many good Pisan and Florentine paintings. Lord Byron lived a long time in Palazzo

PISA. 391

Lanfranchi. S. Catenna (1253) has interesting pictures, and stands in a pleasant square, near the old Komaii baths and the Lucca Gate.

In the remote N. W. corner of Pisa is a wonderful group of mediaeval buildings, nearly surrounded by gardens and the wall. The Cathedral, 311 X 106 ft. in area, and 109 ft. high in the nave, was founded in 1063, to commemorate defeat of Moslems at Palermo, and consecrated by Pope Gelasius II. in 1118. It is in magnificent Tuscan-Gothic architecture, of white and colored marbles, with remarkable fagade of columns and arches, double aisles, and dome lined with Cimabue's mosaics. Inside are 65 antique columns (trophies of » Pisan conquests), a splendidly gUded ceiling, bronze doors designed by John of Bologna, 13 altars designed by Michael Angelo, carved pulpit by Niccolo Pisano, altars enriched with silver and lapis lazuli, many rare pictures, and swinging bronze lamp from which Galileo got the idea of the pendulum.

In front is the finest Baptistery in the world. It is round (100 ft. in diameter, and 190 ft. high) ; in Roman-Tuscan (1153-1278) and Gothic styles; of marble ; and surrounded with ancient columns. Inside, see six-sided pulpit on 7 columns, with 6 reliefs by Niccolo Pisano, and handsome font.

The Leaning Tower (1174-1350), or Campanile^ behind Cathedral, is 179 ft. high, in 8 stories, sur- rounded by colonnades, and containing 7 bells. It is 14 ft. out of the perpendicular. Grand view from top, of the Apennines, the coast, Elba, and Corsica.

The Campo Santo ( open daily; 25c.) is an enclos- ure filled with scores of shiploads of sacred earth from Mt. Calvary, and consecrated to the burial of great men. The cloistered hall which surrounds it was built 1278-83, by John of Pisa, and is 424 ft. long and 145

393 LUCCA. - CARRARA.

ft. broad, with 62 beautiful windows opening on the verdant court within. The walls are decorated with wonderful and curious 14th-eentury frescos of early Bible history and the Triumph of Death, some of which are attributed to Griotto and Orcagna. There are many splendid monuments in these cor- ridors, to Emperor Henry VII., Gregory XIII., Catalani, etc. ; and sculptures by Mino da Fiesole, John of Pisa, Luca della Robbia, Dupre, and Thor- waldsen.

Excursions from Pisa. — To summer resort of Baths of Oombo, near which Shelley was drowned. To La Certosa, a Carthusian monastery, 6 M. out, on the Pisan Mts. To Basilica of S. Pietro in Grado (A.D. 1000), 3 M. out, where St. Peter landed in Italy. Ely. in 13 M. to

Lucca {Universo ; Corona; Croce di Malta), a beautiful old walled city (74,000 inbab.), on a rich plain, and embowered in groves. A splendid Roman municipium, it afterwards became Gothic, Lombard, Frankish, ducal, republican, Pisan and Tuscan; and was home of Dante, and principality of Napoleon's sister. See sumptuous Romanesque Cathedral (1060-70), very rich in art; 7th-century Basilica of S. Frediano, built by Lombard kings, with rare old pictures; chs. of S. Giovanni, S. Romano, S. Francesco, and S. Micliele, and old palaces; and walk around fine old ramparts. The Baths of Lucca {Hotel de V Europe; des Thermes; NeivYorh; Pavilion; Queen Victoria), 13 M. N., among the Apennines, are a collection of 19 sulphuretted ferruginous springs. This has been a famous health resort for centuries.

Pisa to Genoa, by rly., 102i M. (fares, 18 1. 15 c, 131. 60 c, 10 I.). Sea-passage, Leghorn to Genoa, 9 hrs. The rly. lies between Apennines and sea, passing Carrara, a beautiful town of 23,000 inhab.

■li

SPEZTA. - GENOA. 393

(mostly sculptors and marble-workers), embowered m groves of chestnut, olive, orange, and lemon trees, and 3 hrs. from great marble-quarries, where 6,000 men are employed. Jja. Spezia. (Gran Bretagna; Grace di Mal- ta; Italia) is the chief Italian naval port, strongly fortified and well equipped (66,000 inliab.), and was commended by Strabo as one of tlie vastest and best ports in the world. Many visitors come in summer for the sea-baths ; and in winter, for the mild climate. Pleasant trip to Forio Venere (1| hr.). The rly. goes ou, by Sestri Leoante and Lavagna, along sliore of Mediterranean, with charming views, and through many tunnels.

Genoa. (Bristol; Modern; Eden Palace; Continen- tal; Isotta; De Genes; De la Yille: De Londres; Metropole; De France; Smith; Central), called by its citizens La Super ba, has 811,000 inhab., and is Italy's chief commercial town. It was founded by Ligurians j became Roman ; enriched itself in Crusades ; conquered great Levantine domains ; fought many wars" with Venice, Pisa, and the Moslems ; was torn for centuries by Guelph-Ghibelline civil wars ; maintained itself as a republic from 10th century to 19th ; was annexed to Prance in 1800; and in 1815 became Sardinian. It has more imposing marble palaces than any other city •, but the streets are narrow, steep, and crooked. It presents a vast hemicycle of buildings, ranged along the hills like seats in an amphitheatre, with bold wooded heights above. Ramparts, 7 M. long, defend the city; and an outer line, 20 M. long, with towers and intrenchments, traverses the hills beyond The Harbor is sheltered by 2 long piers with light-houses ; and separated from the town by a high arcaded wall, by which fishermen and sailors take their ease. At end near the chief hotels, there is a marble terrace 1,500 ft.

394 GENOA.

long and 45 ft. wide, affording pleasant view of harbor. Near by is handsome 16th-centurj Exchange, with statue of Cavour. Tlie Custom House contains many statues of Genoese worthies in its main hall. Splendid view of city, sea, and Riviera from dome of S. Maria di Carignano, on high hill to S. E.

The Cathedral (1100) is of alternate bands of black and white marbles, with 16 Corinthian columns, sumptuous chapels, rare paintings, many statues, and the Holy Grail. Near by, on Piazza Nuova, see white- marble town-hall, with statues (once Ducal Palace) ; and 16tli-century Jesuits' ch. of S. Ambrogio, with pic- tures by Guido and Rubens. Near by are S. Matteo (1378), with many sculptures and inscriptions of Doria family ; Academy of Fine Arts, with pictures and statu- ary ; 12th-century Gothic ch. of S. Stefano, with famous picture by Giulio Romano ; and Pallavicini and Spinola Palaces. The modern Yia Balhi and Via Nuova are streets of superb palaces, many of which have beautiful courtyards and staircases. Of these, notice 16th-cen- tury Mmiicipio, with mosaic portraits of Columbus and Marco Polo (and letters of former) in council hall; Brignole-Sale, with 8 rooms full of old paintings (fee, 1 1.) ; Adorno (1500), with valuable pictures. Most of the Genoese palaces were built by (or in manner of) Alessi, a pupil of Michael Angelo. The cruciform Capuchin ch. olSS. Annmiziata (1587), with fluted red- marble columns and frescoed dome, is very rich. Hence the Via Balbi, a broad modern street of palaces, leads to rly. stat., passing handsome old Palazzo Durazzo ; University (1622), with museums, Ubrary (60,000 vols.), and the finest courtyard and staircase in Genoa; Pa- lazzo Balbi, with large picture-gallery (fee, 11.); Palazzo Durazzo and Royal Palace (open daily), with richly furnished halls, throne-room, and many pictures.

SAVONA. — SAN REMO. 39.^

fn square by rly. stat., see fine monument to Columbus (18&2), with several allegorical statues and reliefs. Beyond is Palace of Do da Princes, presented to Au- drea Doria, "The Father of his Country," in 1522, rith splendidly frescoed halls, gardens, arcades, and ^'tatues.

Excursions from Genoa. — Villa Pallavicini (get permission at Durazzo Palace ; open 2-3 p.m. ; fee, 1-2 1.), with luxuriant park and gardens, magnificent views, grottos, kiosques, fountains, etc. (at Pegli stat., 7i M. ; I hr. by rly . ; fares, 1 1. 15 c., 80 c). Campo Santo, 1| M. out, new and interesting.

The famousCornicheroad leads along the i^Mera di Ponente from Genoa to Nice (128 1 M.), through some of the finest coast and hill scenery in the world. Steamboats from Genoa to Nice, in 8-9 hrs., nearly every day.

Rly. from Genoa to Nice in 7-9 hrs. (116 M. ; fares, 211. 5 c., 141. 90 c., 101. 65 c.), by slow and not very comfortable trains. The journey should be by day, as the route follows the Mediterranean coast through a succession of beautiful and historic towns and villages. Take seat on r. as far as Savona ; beyond which the best views are on the 1. The line traverses many tun- nels, through rocky promontories.

Savona {Pension Suisse ; Italia ; Eoma) is an ancient city (40,000 inliab.), whose fine harbor Genoa caused to be tilled up, after conquering the town. SixLUS IV. and Julius H. were born here. See Gathe dral (1604) ; 8. Bomenico, with triptych by Diirer j colossal statue of Virgin on tower by harbor. Rly, hence to Turin.

San Remo {Royal; West-End ; Midi; Paradis ; Savoy; d' Europe; Bellevue: de la Mediterranee; Victo- ria; Central; de Londres; de Paris; de Nice), town of

396 BORDIGHERA.

20,000 inhab., on hill-slopes covered with, vineyards and groves of orange, lemon, olive, pommegranate and palm trees. The climate is very mild, and at- tracts many English, American, German and Russian families in winter. The town is a densely populated group of fortress-like medigeval houses, with pictur- esque labyrinths of deep and narrow lanes. See very ancient Cathedral; lovely view from Assump- tion ch.; ruined Borea Palace ; and hermitage of S. Romolo.

Bordighera {Hotel W Angleterre; Royal; Angst; Windsor; du Cap Ampeglio; Park; Victoria; Hes- peria) has a beautiful site, on a hill of palm- trees, projecting into the sea, with picturesque streets and houses. It was once the capital of a republic. Ruffini laid the scene of his Br. Antonio hereabouts. Climate is exceptionally soft in winter, with bracing quality, and is delightful in spring and fall. Many Americans come here. See Villa of Grarnier, archi- tect of Paris Opera-Hoase ; and palm-garden of Moreno. Vmtim{gUa.{Maison Doree; Suisse) is the frontier- town, where baggage is examined and travel- lers change cars. Be sure that your baggage is put back on train.

MENTONE. - MONACO. 397

SOUTHERN FRANCE.

rientone, Nice, Cannes, MarseiUes.

MENTONE {Royal and Westminster; Victoria; National; de Matte; Winter Palace; Venise; Isles Brittaniqnes; Balmoral; d'' Orient; de Russie; du Louvre; des Anglais; Riviera Palace; Gap Martine ; Beau Rivage). The old town keeps fts feudal aspect, with narrow and winding streets, on a promontory dividing the bay. The new town is on a long street, iDarallel with the hill. See grand view from ruins of Castle (1402) ; St. Julian Gate ; Palajzzo ; and Public Garden. Climate more equable than at Nice or Cannes, and very tonic ; and availed of by very many people with lung or bronchial troubles. Beautiful excursions in vicinity. Cor- niche road hence to Nice (18f M. ; 3-4 In-s.) through most exquisite coast scenery.

Near Monte Carlo stat. is famous Casino {Riviem Palace; Balmoral Palace; des Anglais ; Grand; Metropole), with magnificent palace for con- certs, decorated theatre, very elaborate gardens, and Gaming Establishment. Great numbers of fashiona- bles here, from December to May.

Monaco (Beau Sejour; de la Condamine; Nice), the capital of a Lilliputian principality, under French protection, stands on a bold rock nearly sur- rounded by the sea. The ancient Palace of the Princes (open daily; small fee) has sumptuous rDoms and good frescos. Bathing establishments at foot of rock, and new hotels. Pleasant promenades, mild winter cli- mate, and sea bathing in summer. Between Monaco

398 NICE. - CANNES.

and Nice is Villafranca, winter headquarters of American navy in European waters.

Nice {Q-raiid Hotel des lies Britanniques ; Beau Sejour; de Nice ; des Anglais ; Grande Bretagne ; Riviera Palace; Imperial; Terminus; Alhambra; Regina ; Pare Hotel), a handsome and well built city (135,000 inhab.), with an Italian aspect, is the chiei of the fashionable winter-resorts on the Mediter. ranean coast, and lias an extremely soft and agreeable climate, and lovely environs. England and Germany, Kussia and xlraerica, send many invalids here. The brilliant winters are succeeded by very dull summers. It was originally a Greek colony ; then Provenpal, Savoyard, Sardinian, and French. Massena was bora in house No. 21 Quai St. Jean Baptiste ; Garibaldi, at No. 4 Rue Cassini. Paganini died at No. 14 Rue de la Pi'efecture ; Halevy, at No. 5 Rue de France. The world-renowned Promenade des Anglais extends along the bay for 1^ M., bordered by beautiful villas and public establishments. .See Place Massena, with bronze statue of Massena ; Jar din Puhlupie, with palm groves and good band-music ; Place des Phociens, and antique Greek fountain ; remains of Castle, on hill of palm and orange groves, with magnificent view over sea and mts.; old and new Hotels de Fille ; Palace o/ Prefecture ; ancient Lascaris Palace ; Natural-History Museum ; Public Library ; and Marble Cross. Many charming excursions to Villafranca, Montboron, ChX" teau Neuf St. Pons, CiwAes, etc. (consult hotel-porters, most of whom speak Englisli). It is 6 hrs. hence, by express (26 fr. 70 c., 20fr. 75 c., 15fr. 20c>. to Marseilles. A series of tramway lines are now in operation on the coast in the neighborhood of Nice and Monte Carlo.

Cannes {Hotel Splendide, in the town; Gallia, Beau Sejour, \\\ E. quarter; des Princes, \du Pare.

I

TOULON.-MARSEILLES. 399

in W. quarter ; Continental, on the hills ; Gonnet^ Gray and Albion, in S. quarter ; Grande-Bre- tagiie, at Le Cannet) is one of the most popular and attractive Mediterranean winter resorts, sheltered from the winds, and frequented by people whose lungs, are delicate. The English and Russians monopolize it, and the latter have many handsome villas in vicinity. Magnificent sea views, iucluding the lies de LerinSy where, on lie S. Mai'guerite, the Man with the Iron Mask was imprisoned (1687-98), and Marshal Bazaine escaped (1874). On lie S. Honorat, ruins of one of the most famous mediaeval monasteries. Near Cannes IS Antibes, a very picturesque old coast town, sur- rounded by walls and defended by a f(»rt; and Golfe Jouan, where Napoleon landed from Elba.

The Marseilles ily. goes on to Frejus, with ruins of Roman theatre, amxphitheatre, Grilded Grate, and aque- duct (25 M. long). From La Pauline stat. branch rly. to Hyeres, a favorite health resort in winter, with picturesque rocky islets off-shore and lofty mts. behind. Toulon {Grand Hotel; Victoria; De la \Paix; Du Word) is the chief French naval station (77,000 inhab.) on the Mediterranean, on a deep double harbor, sheltered by Cape Sepet and defended by 11 forts. It beat off an Austrian and Italian anny in 1707; but Bonaparte wrested it from an English garrison in 1793. See Arsenal-gate, with statues; Maritime Museum ; Puget's statue of Renown ; prison, founded by Colbert in 1682, now depot of prisoners sentenced to transportation j Hotel de VilJe, with sculptures, and in front a stntuo of Genius of Navi- gation; ancient Cathedral, with sculptures by Canova, Mignard, and Puget, and noble view from Batterie du Salut. It is 41 \ M. hence to

Marseilles {Hotel d^ Noailles; des Negociants; du, Louvre et de la Paix; Terrninua), the foremost mari- time city (503, 0(X) inhnb.) of France, which has a long and narrow inn&y iiarboi*,with latge modern docks out-

400 MARSEILLES. — CHATEAU D'IF.

^1

side. It was founded by Greeks or Phoeni^'ans, b.c. 600, under the name of Massilia ; defeated the Carthagin- ians ; established many colonies along the coast ; was conquered by Csesar, Visigoths, Pranks, Saracens, and Spaniards ; and in 1481 was annexed to France. Here u^ere born Thiers, Gozlain, Puget, and Mery. The Marseillaise call tlieir La Cannebiere the finest street in the world. This line of streets runs N. W. from the ancient harbor, by the handsome Bourse, with statues of eminent pre-Christian Massilian (Greek) navigators; the Place Roijale ; across the shady Cours de VAthenee (statue of intrepid Bishop Belsunce), which leads to Triumphal Arch, with sculptures of Napoleon's victories, and to rly. stat. ; across Cours St. Louis, whicli runs under various names 2\ M. to the N. E. ; and out to Zoological Garden, near which is the handsome Long- clianips Museum (open, 10-4), where an Ionic colon- nade joins tlie Natural-History Museum to the Picture- Gallery.

See immense Docks ; Canal, which cost Sl2,000,000 ; Ch. of Notre Dame de la Garde, on steep and far-view- ing hill; splendid new Byzantine Cathedral ; old Ca- thedral, on ruins of Temple of Diana : palatial Hotel de la Prefecture; Palais de Justice; Transport B'ge.

In suburbs, visit noble Corniche road. The Chateau d'lf, built by Francis I. on an island in the harbor, was made famous by Dumas's Ilonte Crista.

Steamsliips of Messageries Maritimes, Valery Frferes, Fraissinet & Co., and other lines, make Marseilles their chief port, and run to Messina, Athens, Constantinople ; to Syra, Smyrna, Constantinople, Odessa,— returning by Athens & Naples ; to Salonica ; to Naples & Alexandria ; to Port Said, JaflEo, Beyrout, and Syrian coast ; to Trebi- zond ; to Madras and Calcutta ; to Suez, Aden, Singapore, Hong-Kong, Shanghai, Yokohama (fortnightly! ; to Al-

ARLES. — NIMES. 401

giers ; to Barcelona ; to Nice, Genoa, Leghorn, Civdt^ Vecchia, and Naples ; and occasionally to New York.

From Marseilles the tourist may readily enter Spain by way of Barcelona (see page 4j05j.

Aries, Nimes, Avignon, and Lvons.

Rly. from Marseilles to Paris in 16-18 hrs. (fares, 106 fr. 35 c., 79 f". 80 c.). Train leaving at 8.30 a.m. is due at Paris at 11.19 p.m.

The route leads through vineyards and olive-groves,. among which are ancient villages, to Aries (^Grand Hotel da Forum ; Dn Nord), a venerable Roman town . (26,000 inhab.) near the Gamargue, or delta of the Rhone. The Roman Amphitheatre (b.c. 43) is 1,500 ft. around, with seats for 25,000 spectators, fine arcades, and dens for wild beasts. It has been a fortress of the Goths, Saracens, and Eranks, some of whose towers are still standing. The remains of the Roman Theatre are very interesting. See also famous Roman cemetery of Ghamps Mijsees (mentioned by Dante) ; columns in Place da Forum; ruins of Thermse, and of Gonstan- tine's Palace; Roman Obelisk of Alpine granite, set up here in 1676 ; Museum (in old ch. of S. Anna) of Roman statues aud antiquities ; 7th-century Gathedral^ with fine portal and interesting cloisters ; viaduct with 32 arches; and (2| M. N. E.) imposing ruins of for- tress-abbey of Montmajour, on a high rock. The women of Aries are celebrated for beauty.

Fares, Marseilles to Aries, 10 fr. 60 c., 7fr. 90 c., 5fr. 80 c. Erom Aries, via Tarascon, to Nimes, ifr. 85 c., 3fr. 60 c., 2fr. 60 c.

Nimes {Hotel du Luxembourg ; Du Midi) the birth- place of Guizot and Nicot (whence nicotine), has 80,000 uiliab. It was ouce a sacred spot in a Druidical

402 TARASCON. — AVIGNON.

forest ; conquered by Home, B.C. 121 ; and at lime of Keformation, scene of fierce religious M^ars. No other Frencli town has such noble Roman remains. The well-preserved Amphitheatre (b.c. 140) has 35 rows of seats and 121 exits, and is 1,300 ft. arouinl and 74 ft. high. It was made a fortress by Visigoths and Sara- cens ; and afterwards contained a large village. The Maison Carrie is a Roman temple, 88 X 42 ft. in area, with 30 exquisite Corinthian columns. Founded prob- ably by the Antonines, it became afterwards a cli., and then a town-hall ; and is now a Museum, with antique mosaics and sculptures, and several score of modern paintings. The Capitol at Richmond, Ya., was mod- elled on plan of Maison Carree. See also ancient Tern- fie of Diana (or Ni/mphatmi) , and Roman Baths, below the huge and far-viewing Tourmagne, on Mount Cava- lier, adorned with promenades ; 2 of rhe Roman town- gates ; Fountain ; and Boulevards.

Tarascon {Hotel des Empereurs ; Du Petit Louvre)^ the city of the troubadours, and of King Rene of Anjou (13,500 inhab.), has notable Castle, Ch. of S. Marthe, Chapel of St. Gabriel, and Rue des Arcades.

Avignon {Hotel de VFrnrope) is a handsome city (38,000 inliab.) on the Rhone, with an imposing and well-preserved wall (1349-68) of huge masonry, and many gates. On the Rocher des Dons, 300 ft. high, stands the 14th-century Cathedral, with tombs of 2 popes ; La Glaciere, an ancient square prison-tower of the Inquisition, where many martyrs have died; the Papal Palace (now a barrack), a huge and fortress-like pile, 100 ft. high, with frowning towers and a chapel frescoed by Memmi (about 1330) ; the old Papal Mint, etc. Splendid view of Rhone and city from adjacent public gardens. The golden age of Avignon was dur- ing 1305-77, when 7 popes dwelt there, with all the

VAUCLUSE. — VIENNE. 403

Pontifical court. In 1351 Petrarch was a guest in the Palace, and Rienzi lay bound in its dungeons. At foot of Rocher des Dons is the Grande Place, with hand- some Theatre and Hotel cle Ville. See also Calvet Museum (1 fr.), with Roman antiquities, library, and picture-gallery ; Bridge, of which but 4 arches remain ; Monimie?it to Petrarch's Laura; 17th-century Hotel Crillon; and Ch. of Grands Carmes.

Vaucluse is 12 M. distant by rly. to Vlle-sur- Sorgues, whence 4 M. by road. Here is the fountain of which Petrarch sang. The Pont du Gard, W. of Avignon, is one of the grandest Roman works in existence. It is an aqueduct of 3 lines of arches, over the desolate Gard Valley, built probably by Agrippa.

Beyond Avignon the Paris rly. passes Orange {Hotel de la Paste et des Princes), a Roman colony, and afterwards capital of principality (imtil 1702), with large Roman Theatre (20,000 sittings) and Triumphal Arch. Near Pierrelatte are many Roman remains. Montelimart has famous mineral springs. Livron is famous for its defence by the Huguenots against Henri III. in 1574. Valence {Hotel de la Croix) is a picturesque town (20,000 inhab.), with Roman ruins ; Cathedral with tomb of Pius VI. ; Museum; and Maison des Tetes. Vienne {Hotel du Nord; De la Poste), "a little French Manchester" (25,000 inhab.), on the Rhone, has Roman Temple of Augustus, with 16 Corinthian columns; 6th-century basilica of S. Pierre: venerable Cathedral, etc.

Lyons {Grand Hotel; de Rome; des Beaux- Arts; Bellecour; Terminus; Etrangers), the second city and chief manufacturing place of Trance (400,000 inh.), is at the confluence of the Rhone and Saone, and is of vast importance, commercially and strategically. The Perrache is the quarter between and reclaimed

404 LYONS.

from tlie 3 rivers ; and containing handsome rlj. stat.. Arsenal, Barracks, Custom House, and Ch. of St. Blandine. See 13tli-century Cathedral, with fapade by Philibert Delorme, and noble tower; Museum (open 9-3), with Roman antiquities and statues, library, and large picture-gallery (see Perugino's Ascension) ; Grand Theatre; noble view from ]jilg:rimas;e-ch. oi Notre Dame ds Fourviere, on heights ; Hotel de Ville (1647), neal" scene of massacres of 1794 ; Civic Library, 180,000 vols. ; Palace of Commerce, with industrial museum ; Hotel Dieu ; great tobacco-factories ; new Bellecour Theatre ; 10th-century cb. of Abbey of Ainay, on site of Caligula's school of rhetoric; handsome Tete d'Or park ; Ch. of S. Jean, of 12th century ; and Place Bellecour. There are 16 bridges over the rivers ; and the adjacent heights are covered with great forts.

Rly. from Lyons to Geneva, 4| hrs. (fares, 20 ft'. 65 c, 15^ fr., 11 fr. 35 c.) ; and to Besanfon (fares, 29 fr. 20 c, 21 fr. 85 c, 16 fr. 5 c.) . Besan9on {Hotel de Paris) is one of the strongest fortresses in France (48,000 inhab.), with noble Cathedral, Archiepiscopal Palace, Granvelle Palace (1: 'i34), Roman Arch, and Library (120,000 vols.).

Express trains, Lyons to Paris. Q-10 hrs., by Macon^ Chalons-sur-Saone, Dijon, etc.

Montpellier, Cette, and Perpign^n, see pages 405-6.

Biarritz and Bayonne, see page 433.

Pau, Cauterets, Bordeaux, Arcachon, Angoulemey Poh> tiers, ToulousCy Vichy ^ etc., see pages 436 et seq.

SPAIN. 405

A ROUND TRIP IN SPAIN.

THE tourist who can give ten days for a visit to the most important points in Spain will never have occasion to regret it. He will find it among the most interesting and instructive of his journeys in Europe. Prom Marseilles we recommend you to go directly to Barcelona, from tliere to Valencia, and thence via La Encina to the Alcazar de San Juan. From this point you may go S. to Seville and Cordova, from Cordova to Grenada, from Grenada to Malaga, all this by rail : then from Malaga by steamer to Gibraltar ; from Gib^ raltar to Cadiz, from Cadiz to Seville, from Seville to the Alcazar de San Juan : from thence to Madrid, taking on the way the ancient city of Toledo ; and from Madrid N. to Erance by Avila, Valladolid, Burgos, and Irun : thence to Bordeaux and Paris. That does not include several points of interest, such as for instance Saragossa, Alicante, Salamanca, etc. ; but it gives a capital idea of the chief beauties of Spain. Even to those who feel that they cannot spend the time to go S. to Seville, Grenada, Malaga, and Gibraltar, we would recommend to try the route to Barcelona, Valencia, Toledo, and N., being satisfied with half of Spain if they cannot see the whole. As for the journey to Portugal and especially to Lisbon we sliall simply point out the route, as most vacation tourists will find it too lengthy.

Between Marseilles and Barcelona you pass through JVEontpellier {Hotel Neoet ; Du Midi ; Delmas ; G-ranS, Here is a Cathedral founded in 1364 by Ur- ban V. ; a school of medicine with fine entrance flanked with a colossal bronze statue representing Barthez and

406 GERONA. — BARCELONA.

La Peyronnic; a library of 50,000 vols., a good mu- seum (open Sun., Mon., and fete days, ll-3j ; a public library, 60,000 vols. ; and many beautiful fountains, statues, gardens, and proineimdes : — Cette/one of tbe most industrious and dirtiest cities of Southern France, noted for its exports of wine, for its museum of natural history, and its botanical garden : — Narhonrte, and Perpignan, an old French town with a Spanish aspect. The Spanish frontier is reached at Cerhere, in the midst of a wildly beautiful country ; baggage inspection not severe. The only point of special importance through which you pass on your way to Barcelona is

Gerona {Fonda Italiana), a large town divided into two sections, upper and lower, by the river Oila. Noble view here of the Pyrenees and the distant mountains. The porch of the Cathedral is reached by a monumental staircase of 86 steps. The interior forms one single nave, nearly 200 ft. long, sustained by immense pilkrs, formed of little columjis almost detached from each other. Many interesting tombs here. The chief altar is one of the richest in Spain. The Bishop's Palace is very fine. Churches of San Pedro de los Galligans iind San Feliu are worth seeing. The Capucin Con- vent contains a small Arabic monument of wonderful nitricate workmanship. From Gerona it is 65 M. to Barcelona (Grand Hotel; Inglaterra; Falcon y Central; del Oriente; Continental; Peninsular), one of the most enterprising as well as one of the most beautiful cities (500,000 inh.) in Southern Europe. Its appearance quite contradicts any impressions that one may have of the slovenliness and lack of energy of the modern Spaniards, impressions, alas ! confirmed later on by the aspect of more southward towns, Barcelona is the residence of a Captaim General and of the civil governor of the province of Catalonia. The clima*:e \s

jj J^imj^^ieVVest O I.oiigitud^ EcLst 2.

SPAIN, 407

temperate both in summer and winter. The new part of , the city, .notably in the Gracia quarter, will remind I America,ns of the more beautif ui sections of Boston and of Washington. The Rambla is the principal promenade of the city, and at noon and in the evening is thronged ' with all classes of the population. It runs from the Plaza , de la Paz iColumbiis Monunwiit) to the Plaza ds Cataiuna, [ and from, here stretches out the beautiful Gracia avenue, I which unites the city to a suburb of the same name. The I University with its 150,000 volumes is on the Plaza de la i tJniversidad, a short distance N.W. from the Cataiuna Plaza. Among other squares are the Heal, with interest- ing shops ; tlie Medina CeJi, with statue of Marquet ; del Rey, with the Provincial Museum and Palace of the Archives ; de la Constitucion, with the Gasa Consistorial ( and the Casa de la Diputacion ; de Palacio, with fine marble fountain. From tlie latter a short avenue leads to the Parque de la Ciudadela^ in which are the Palace, the Pantheon, and an unimportant Museode Reproducciones. The Lyceo, said to be the largest theatre in the world, is built after the model of La Scala, at MUan. The Lonja, or Exchange, is of monumental aspect. The Casa de la Diputacion, on the Palace of the Constitution, was built in the 16th century ; fine portal. On the side fronting on the Calle del Obispo is the exquisite fagade of the cliapel of St. George, Gothic in style. The Hall of the Diputacion has many fine paintings ; among others a number of the best works of Fortuny. Opposite is the Casa Consistorial, a Gothic edifice (1378). The patio, or courtyard, is much admired. The Custom House, Casa Aduana, is near the old royal palace. The Archives of the Crown of Aragon in the Plaza del Rey is a superb historical collection dating back for ten centuries.

408 BARCELONA.

The Cathedral dates from the first centuries of the Church. It is dedicated to S. Eulalia. The first biiilding" was erected by Raymond BerAnguer I. in 1058, but only part of that remains. The interior has three vast naves, ogival in style. The chief altar is in a sort of temple, supported by sculp- tured columns : at the top is a Christ upon the Cross. Beneath the ch. is a crypt, with a chapel in which are said to repose the remains of S. Eulalia : beautiful stained glass windows here. The side door on the r, leads into the cloister, which is marvellously decorated in the style of the 15th century. Notice the ironwork on the doors of the chapels : also the tomb of the dwarf buffoon of King Alfonso V. of Aragon. There are numerous other chs. of interest. Among the most strik- ing is S. Maria del Mar, a fine Gothic edifice. The Provincial Museum contains some good paintings by Villodomat, some by the Caracci, and works of Kibera and other masters. The Museo Arqueologico, in the ch. of Santa Agneda, is interesting. The Museo Estrucli contains an interesting collection of weapons. On an isolated hill stands the Castle of Montjuich^ which can contain a garrison of about 10,000. Barcelonetta is a little suburb chiefly inhabited by fishermen and workmen in the marine establishments. Gracia is a favorite residence of the wealthier people of Barcelona. An excursion should be made to the immense rocky mass of 31onserrat, which rises in the midst of the Catalonian plain, to the height of about 3,500 ft. above the level of the sea, at a distance of 31 M. from Barce- lona. It may be reached from the stat. of Martorell, on the Tarragona line, or much more easily from Mo- nistrol, on the Saragossa rv.,from which a carriage rd. and mt. ry. lead to the Monastery on summit of the mt. Of the old monastery founded in 880 nothing is left but a few walls and one or two towers in Byzantine

SPAIN. 409

style, dating from tlie I5tli century. The present raon asteiy is composed of immense buildings, 8 stories high, without special character. The ch. is beautified with a portico, rich with statues and columns. The renown of the Virgin of Monserrat is too well known to need mention here. From the top of the mt. there is a splendid view of immense extent over the hills of Ar- agou, the Pyrenees, the Mediterranean shore, and in very clear weather as far as the Balearic Islands. There are several grottos filled with stalactites in the Mon- serrat mass.

The Balearic Islands. — There is regular com- munication between Barcelona and Palma, the capital of the old Kingdom of Majorca, and the chief town of the province which to-day bears the name of Bale- ares, and whicb comprises the islands of Majorca, Minorca, Ivica, and several others. Palma is a pretty town with narrow streets, in the midst of a delight- ful country. There are a few fine buildings in it. See Lonja, or old Exchange, begun in 1436, finished 22 years later : the Citadel, built at the close of the 16th century : the Palace of the Captain General : the Cathe- dral, founded 1230, finished 1601. Majorca pretends to be the cradle of the Bonaparte family, because an ancestor of that house, Hugo Bonaparte, a native of Majorca, went in 1411 to Corsica as governor in the name of King Martin, when that island bf^longed to the Crown of Aragon : — In the Island of Minorca, Fort Mahon is the principal town, much frequented by navi- gators of all nations. The English were there for a long time, and quitted the island only in 1782.

Erom Barcelona those who have time may find it interesting to visit Saragossa.

410 SARAGOSSA.

Saragossa {Fonda cle Uuropa ; Las Cuatro Nacioiies) ; existed in the time of the Romans. Augustus Caesar founded a military colony there^ to which he gave the name of Csesarea Augusta, whence the contraction Saragossa. The ry. stats, are some dis- tance outside the town, which has a population of 92,000, and is situated on the 1. bank of the Ebro. It is renowned for its obstinate resistance to the army of Napoleon during the memorable siege of 1808, and still shows marks of bullets on its walls. The Gate ofNues- tra Senora del Carmen is a noble memorial of the siege. From the stone bridge which unites the town with the suburb of Altabas there is a fine view of the city and the Ch. of Our Lady del Pilar. This is the object of fervent devotion on the part of Spanish Catholics. According to tradition a chapel was built here about the year 40 of the Christian era by the orders of the Yir- gni herself, who brought to it the pillar and the statue so much venerated to-day. Even when the mauso- leums were injured at Saragossa, this chapel and the pillar were preserved. The first stone of the present ch. was laid in 1681. The interior is rather naked and cold. There are, however, some beautiful marble columns upholding the sculptured vault. In the Sacristy is a fine Ecce Homo attributed to Titian. The Ch. of San Salvador, or the Seo, that is, the Epis- copal seat, is considered, however, as more important than the first mentioned one. It is sumptuously orna- mented, and the mysterious twilight in the 5 naves has an impressive effect. Beautiful sculptures here repre- senting the history of the Saviour, of the adoration of the Magi, the Ascension, etc. ; also several fine tombs. The Trascoro is the work of the celebrated sculptor Tudeiilla, and the chapels are very rich. The subter- ranean ch. of Santa Engracia, where repose the

SPAIN. 411

remains of inany Christian martyrs, who were slain by »he soldiers of Diocletian, is interesting. The ch. was nearly destroyed by an explosion in 1808. The other chs, are too numerous to mention. The Casa Muni- cipal, the Exchange, with its vast rectangular hall, formed by 24 beautiful columns in four rows ; the Ch. of San Pablo ; the Aljaftria, which was a pal- ace of pleasure for the Arab kings; tlie Bull Ring; a great number of beautiful private residences ; the V diversity, wliich has a library of 25,000 vols. ; some convents and hospitals ; and the suburb of Santa Engracia, may all be readily seen in the course of half a day. From the little hills in the neighborhood there are very pretty views. On t*" 3 way from Barcelona to Saragossa you pass through

Lerida {Fonda Suiza; VeEJspana). Prom here there is rail to Tarragona. The old Cathedral is a magnificent mass of Byzantine Gothic remains, mixed with various Arabic styles ; picturesque and rich cloister. The new Cathedral, built under Charles III., is a fine Corinthian edifice with 3 naves, surrounded with a great number of chapels and many fine altars.

The excursion to Saragossa is rather out of the limits which we had assigned for a brief journey through Spain. "We recommend the tourist to go through Tarragona along the coast to Valencia. You leave Barcelona very early in the morning and reach Valencia about 8 or 9 in the evening. Take your provisions with you from the hotel. The journey affords a fine series of contrasted views of Spanish scenery. After leaving Tarragona you pass through remarkably wild scenery along the base of rocky mts..

413 TARRAGONA. — VALENCIA.

and then descend into the delicious landscape in tlie neighborhood of Valencia, filled with groves ot oranges and lemons, and with a great variety of semi- tropical shrubs.

Tarragona {Paris; Europa; del Castro) is a very- old town of about 80,000 inhab., once the centre of the Roman power in Spain. Not far away are the sites of some of Hannibal's battles. The Paseo de Santa Clara is built over the remains of the Roman walls. Very ancient gates here. Some of the modern residences are built with the debris of temples and of Roman palaces. The Place of the Constitution is on the site of an old Roman circus. The Cathedral is Gothic in style ; interior vast, aspect majestic, ornaments sober but heavy, pillars shrouded in old Italian tapestries, many marble tombs and statues ; beautiful cloisters. In a chapel are the remains of Don Jaime !„, King of Ara- gon, and his wife. Old Aqueduct here. The next place of importance is Tortosa, a strongly fortified city on the 1. bank of the Ebro (25,000 inhab.). Imposing fortifications. Cathedral of little importance. Shortly before reaching Valencia you pass Murviedro, near which are the ruins of the celebrated and ancient city of Saguntum. If you go to these ruins, visit them at midday. The population is not aggressive, but there have been brigands in the neighborhood.

Valencia {Hotel de Paris ; Cuatro Naciones : JEspana; Oriente; Roma) is the chief town (170,000 inhab.) of the province of the same name, the residence of a captain general and of the archbishop. It is beautifully situated in the midst of a great number of groves and gardens. About 2| M. distant is its port, called El G-rao, which is accessible for large steam- ships. Valencia may be seen in short time. The first impression of it is not imposing, but the beauties of its

SPAix. 413

natural situation and its arcliitecture grow upon one. The principal squares are those of the Constitution, where is the city hall ; that of S. Francisco; that of S. Domingo, a market-place, which is well worth spending an hour or two in when the peasantry from the neigh- boring mts. are there ; the celebrated Exchange aud the Silk Hall. The Audiencia is a fine building of the 16th century. The prmcipal halls are ornamented with good portraits. The Archiepiscopal Palace is con- nected with the Cathedral by a bridge. The Cathedral dates from 1262. The largest tower is called M Migue- lete, from the name of the big bell which was baptized in the name of S. Michael. Prom the platform o? the tower, splendid view of the sea aud the coast. The interior is formed of 3 vaulted naves supported by square pillars with Corinthian capitals. High mass in this ch. is a splendid spectacle. Visit the Sala Capitu- lar, immense quantity of relics, ornaments, archives, books, and MSS. The Ch. of S. Catalina has an old mosaic. Its tower is beautiful. In the Ch. of S. Juan del Hospital is the tomb of one of the empresses of Constantinople. The old home of the Jesuits is occu- pied by the civil government. Very fine hospitals here. The University buildings are not remarkable. In the CJiurcJh of Corpus Christi is a beautiful Cena by Ribalta. An invisible mechanism winds up this j canvas and opens 4 great curtains showing a superb crucifix, which is much venerated by the Valencians. The Provincial Museum is in the old convent del Carmen (9-4); it contains numerous old pictures, though few of great merit. The Theab^e is large, but without character. The Bull Ring is immense. The principal promenades are the Alameda^ the Botanical Garden and the Glorieta. Pretty walks by the banks of the river. In the tobacco-factory.

414 ALICANTE. — ALBACETE.

3500 women are occupied. The Valencian women are renowned for their beauty. From Yalencia yot may go to Alicante via La Encina.

Alicante {Fonda de Bossid) is a fine seaport (40,000 inhab.). The town has no remarkable architectural features. The streets are large and well paved. The Alameda de la Reina is pretty. The Cit^ Hall, flanked with 4 towers, is quite imposing. Neither of the 2 chs. is worth much study. The Convent of S. Clara, or of the Holy Face, as it is called, possesses a much venerated relic, the handkerchief with which S. Tero- nica wiped the sweat from the brows of the Saviour. The Citadel of S- Barbara is supposed to be impreg- nable. You may also go to Alicante by Alcoy and Jativa. This last mentioned town is beautifully situ- ated on a mt. -chain, overlooking a magnificently culti- vated plain. On the flanks of the hills are the walls of an old fortress. A French writer says that the rly. here seems to be the alley through a region of gardens. Returning from Alicante to La Encina you may take ticket to the Alcazar de S. Juan, or directly to Madrid. On the way you pass

Aibacete {Fonda Francisquillo), renowned for its manufacture of knives. Specimens of the merchandise are always offered by pedlers to passengers on the trains. The Alcazar de S. Juan is where the lines to Andalusia and to Portugal branch off from the main line from Madrid to Valencia. It is an old town which the Order of the Knights of St. Juan made its head- quarters. Decent refreshment-room here. Attend carefully to your baggage. From the Alcazar de S. Juan to Cordova the journey is one of the most inter- esting in Spain, and descends into Andalusia. At Ilaii* zanares the line to Ciudad Real and Portugal branches off. You pass through Yal de Penas, whence you get

SPAIN. 415

a good view \jf the Sierra Morena. Between the Alca- zar and the Val de Peuas lies much of the country described in Bon Quixote. Many interesting points on. the line. Notice Almuradiel, and Vilches, near which is the great plain wliere in 1212 a Christian army defeated the great Mussulman liordes under the com- mand of Mahomed al Nassr. At Mengibar there is a fine bridge over tlie Guadalquivir. At Andujar there is little of importance to be seen except tlie large ch, in what is known as the Plateresqne style of architecture, Cordova.( Fonda Bspafiolaj Suizaj Fonda de Oriente) is -an old town of 55,000 inhab., situated in a delicious plain on the r. banli ot the Guadalquivir, in full view of the slopes of the Sierra Morena. Cordova has a sumptu- ous museum of antiquities : a great collection of edifices of aU epochs ; and is divided into two parts by one long street, the Calle de la Feria, the principal artery for the commerce of the city. The walls which still surround it are flanked with towers, octagonal, cylindrical, or square, which were the work of successive generations of Saracen and Christian architects. The Plaza de la Con- stitucion is gurrounded by fine buildings. The old stone bridge over the stream is attributed to Octavius Au- gustus. The principal objects of interest are the Old Alcazar, and the garden of the Moorish kings, adjacent to it. Por permission to enter address the porter. The New Alcazar is to-day a prison. The Episcopal Palace is built of very rich materials, but not in remarkably good taste : fine gardens and good li- brary. Curious collection of portraits of all the bishops of Cordova. Near this palace is the Triunfo, a hand- some marbL monument, surmounted with a column which bears a gilded bronze statue of St. Raphael. A great number of the houses in the city are ornamented with inscriptions in honor of emperors, consuls, raagis-

416 CORDOVA.

trates, etc. The modern Bull Ring is near the rly. station.

The Mosque, now the Cathedral, is certainly one of the most remarkable edifices in the world. It was founded in 786 by Abdurrahman I., and com- pleted finally in 990. The exterior is rather gloomy; the courtyard within, remarkably beautiful. It has colonnades on 3 sides, with fountains in the centre ; and is planted with orange and cypress trees. The interior of the Cathedral has been somewhat aptly described as a ^'marble grove." The roof is sup- ported by a vast number of slender pillars, beau- tifully wrought with Corinthian capitals and shafts of various colored marbles, of jasper, porphyry, -etc. The principal entrance, called the Puerta del Perdon, opens into the beautiful Court of Oranges. The Milirah, or the Holy of Holies, is very curious. The Mosque was converted into a Cathedral on the 25 th of June, 1236. In the Colegiata de San Hipolito are two urns containing the ashes of King Alphonso XI. and his father, Ferdinand IV. ; also the tomb of the celebrated chronicler, Ambrosio de Morales. The chs. of S. Pedro and of S. Marina are also worth seeing. The Convent of S. Pablo has beautiful cloisters and a magnificent staircase. Many otiier convents are rich in works of art. Just outside the town is the sanctuary of Our Lady of la Fuen Santa; great public festival here on the 8th, 9th, and 10th of Sept. An excursion to the Erraitas in the Sierra Morena is worth while. From Cordova to Granada the distance is 153J M. On the way you pass Mantilla, which is one of the most beautiful places in Andalusia. Here the 'Great Captain, Gonzalvo de Cordova, was born. At Bohadilla a branch line to the r. goes to Malaga (re- freshment room here). Anteguera is an old fortress, said to have been built in Roman times. Notice

SPAIN. 417

the colossal bronze angel on the cupola of the ch. of San Sebastian ; also the Arch of Hercules, a Roman ruin.

Granada {Washington Irving, and Roma, near Alhambra ; Alameda, and Victoria, in the town), a city of 72,000 inhabitants, is world famous, and we shall only briefly indicate the best way to visit the Alhambra and the other curiosities of the town ill a short time. Granada is grouped on the slopes, of 3 hills. The Torres Bermejas, or Scarlet Towers, so called because of their color, are on the first and the last of these hills. The Alhambra, which is a city in itself, covers the second and the highest. The Albaycin is on the third, separated from the others by a deep ravine filled with rank vegetation. Through this ravine runs the torrent of the Darro. Granada itself is divided into 4 large sections. The modern city occupies the part of the valley between the hills of the Albaycin and the Alhambra. Notice the Plaza del Trlunfo, at the end of which is the Bull Ring. On this Plaza is a white marble column, with statue of the Virgin. Here also are the Royal Hospital and the Concent of the Merced. On the Plaza Nueva, reached by the Zacatin, is the fine edifice of the Audiencia. See the Ch. of Santa Ana, Here is a JJniversity, with rich library and a rather inferior collection of pictures. The Cathedral, to be seen from 8 a.m. to noon, and 3 to 5 p.m., has a fine front ornamented with statues and bas-rehefs. Interior has 5 naves, supported by 20 enormous pillars, formed of columns grouped together. The Door of the Pardon is very fine. The Camilla del Pilar is filled with beau- tiful marbles. See the group of " Charity'' in the Sala Capitular, the work of Torrigiani, the Florentine artist, who was the rival of Michael Angelo. The Capilla Mayor is one of the most richly decorated in Spain.

41b GEANADA. — THE ALHAMBRA-

The Royal Chapel was built to receive the remains of ^Ferdinand and Isabella, and here are thfiir tombs. The two royal statues lie on the sarcophagus : two lions repose at their feet. Here are the crown and sceptre of Isabella, and the sword of Ferdinand. In a second mausoleum near by are the remains of Queen Joanna, who was insane, and of PhiHp her husband. The tower of the Cathedral is unfinished.

The Alhambra is open daily from 9 to 13 a.m. and 2 to 4 P M. Leaviug the Plaza ISfueva you scale the •Cuesta de los Gomeres. At the top of this street you find the Puerta de las Granadas, a kind of triumphal arch built by Charles V., where formerly stood an an- cient Arabic gate. Beyond this he the groves and the gardens which surround the Alhambra. We will simply •enumerate the objects to be seen. The Filar de Car- los v., ornamented with statues ; the Puerta de Juicio^ or Door of Judgment ; the Plaza de los Algibes, or Place of the Cisterns ; the Puerta del Vino ; the Palace of Charles V., a fine Renaissance structure, but un- finished. The centre is occupied by a circular patio or court, surrounded by a vaulted gallery supported by 32 Doric columns in marble. The Alhambra, a marvellous Arabic palace, occupied a rectangle of 400 ft. long by 250 wide. It comprised 5 interior courts. The prin- cipal fagade, which was to the N., was demolished to make room for the Palace of Charles V. Its main entrance opened on the Patio de los Arrayanes, and you can only enter it to-day through a small corridor behind the N. fagade of the Imperial palace The Hall of the Ambassadors, the Tocador, and the Mirador, or toilet rooms of the Queen, the Patio de la Mezquita, the ilall of the Paths, the Patio de las Rejas, the Court of Lions, the most precious soecimen oi Arabesque architecture in Spain, with VZd> white

SPAIN. 419

marble columns m the galleries surrounding it, with a floor of white marble, a noble fountain, and 13 great sculptured lions. The Halls of the Tribunal, of the Dos Hermanas (the Two Sisters), and the Hall of the Ahencerrages, should be carefully studied. In the hall of the Two Sisters is the famous Alham- bra Vase, the finest known example of Hispano- Moresque faience. The Royal Chapel,wh\ch. is rarely open, contains a great variety of artistic treasures. Prom the platform of the Tower of the Vela there is an admirable \dew. Yisit also the Adarves, a line of old bastions transformed into gardens, also the ch. of Santa Maria, the Towers of the Cautivas, of tlie Carceles, of Los Slete Siielos, del Agua, de las Infantas and many otiiers, should be carefally inspected. To visit the Generalife jou leave by the Los Picos Gate, and go down the hill by a route which crosses the ravine of Los Molinos, and which then climbs the foot of the hills of a neighboring mt. The Generalife was the pleasure house of the Mhimbra. But little remains of it except a few arcades and some beautiful arabesques. In one of the few halls which are still covered with a roof, there is a series of smoky portraits of the Kings of Spain, which have only a chronological merit. " Prom the Tower of the Generalife," says a French writer, " you fancy that you can touch the Sierra Nevada, so pure and limpid is the air through which you see that moun- tain chain." There are a great many beautiful excur- sions in the neighborhood of the Alhambra, but to enjoy them one must remain in the vicinity at least a week. The gypsy encampments in the country-side are very interesting, but the prudent traveller will scarcely ■care to venture among them without a stout escort. Erom Granada the distance to Malaga by rail is 119 M. Malaga {Roma, on the Alameda; Royal Victoria f Paris; Jnglaterra,fiecond class, butgood), with 135,000

420 MALAGA. — GIBRALTAR.

inhab., may be easily seen in half a day. The exquisite climate and the beautiful situation of the town are its chief attractions. The Episcopal Palace, the Cit^ Halt, the new Custom House, the Theatre, which can contain 2,000 spectators, the vast Bull Ring, which holds 10,000, are not architecturally remarkable. The Al- cazaba is an ancient fortress which antedates the Arabic occupation. The Atarazana is an old arsenal of the Moors. The Castle of Gibralfaro is on a hill to the E. of the city. The higbest tower is an imposing mass sustained by 4 arches and nearly 100 ft. high. Good view from this tower. The most beautiful prom- enade in this town is the Alameda : many pretty loun.- taius and statues here. The Cathedral, which would be rich in any other country, is not remarkable for Spain. All through this country grow wheat, oats, olives, all kinds of fruit : orange, lemon, and fig trees are abun- dant. Try and time your visit to Granada so as to connect with the steamer going to Gibraltar.

Gibraltar {Royal; Bristol; Grand; Huropa) is a eity situated on a slope on the W. part of the famous . rock and facing the bay. It has about 20,000 inhab. exclusive of the I^nglish garrison of 6,000 men. Main. Street is the principal artery of the town. A narrow road connects the mainland with the rock, and this is guarded by batteries. Trom top to bottom the mt. is full of excavations, and out of every one looks the mouth of a cannon. At summit is an unfinished tower, called O'Hara's or JSt. George's. It was intended to be sufficiently high to enable the sentinels to overlook the Bay of Cadiz and see the movements there. In 1704 the English fleet, sustaining the rights of the Archduke Charles of Austria to the crown of Spain against Philip V. presented itself before Gibraltar, the lurtifi- catious of which were then in ruins an*^ occupied by a

SPAIN. 421

garrison of 80 men. The town was taken, and although in the name of the archduke, England thought it proper to keep it. Various attempts to take it back were made in 1727, 1779, and 1782, but with- out success. ^ The fortifications can be visited with special permission, which may be easily obtained at the hotels. There is also a good club to which strangers may be presented. Excursions may be made froni Gibraltar to several interesting points on the African coast, notably Ceuta and Tangier. Opposite Gibraltar is the town of Algeciras {Hotel Reina Cristina) , the occasional scene of international con- ferences. It is a typically Spanish town situated on a beautiful bay and commanding a fine view of the rock and fortifications of Gibraltar.

Cadiz {Fonda de Paris; Fonda de Francia; Fonda, ie Cadiz; de Europa) is one of the most charming of Spanisli towns (6i,000 inliab ), It is on a peninsula, which extends iuto the ocean, and is generally consid- ered the most agreeable town in Andalusia. It is strongly fortified, and its position is well calculated for defence. Notice the Fort of S. Catalina: also the Fort of S. Sebastian. Erom the Torre de la Figia, in the centre of the town, you get an admirable view of Cadia and its surroundings. Nearly all the houses are white, and their terraces and balconies are very picturesque. The Casas Gonsistoriales occupy fine buildings on the Plaza de Isa,bel Segunda. The Alameda is a fine promenade on one of the ramparts N. E. of the city. The Park Genoves is a fine pleasure ground with sea view. There are many colleges and seminaries, as well as an Academy of Fine Arts and numerous libraries. The new Cathedral, which is at the south end of the town, is not a very success- ful piece of architecture. A great profusion of marbles h/» ve been used in its decora':ion, but the gen-

422 CADIZ. — SEVILLE.

eral effect is confused and disagreeable. The Treasury is rich in relics, jewels, etc. The old Cathedral has fallen into decay. In the chapel of the Convent of S. Catalina are some pictures by Murillo. Steam com- munication between Cadiz and Portugal, England, Hol- land, the Trench and German coasts, and Mexico, is very frequent.

You may go from Cadiz to Seville by steamboat, on the Guadalquivir, in 8 nrs. ; fares, 15 p. ; breakfast on iDoard from 3 to 3 p. The journey is pretty, but most travellers will probably prefer the rail route, about 82f M. ; passing through Jerez de la Frontera, a pretty town, enriched by commerce in wine and other products of its generous soil. Here see curious monastery, museum, finely decorated city hall. About 2 M. S. E. of the town is a noted Carthusian monastery. d|

Seville {Hotel de Madrid; de Paris; de Roma;^ Europa), with 143,000 inhabitants, requires a long visit. We will not attempt to describe it in detail, but will simply indicate the things to see. Seville has kept its ancient character pretty well. Most of its streets are narrow and crooked, and nearly all the houses have their patios, or inner courtyards, separated from the street by vestibules paved with white and black marble, and closed by doors of iron gratings beautifully worked by skilful artisans. The Plaza S. Fernando is a vast square which in the morn- ing is inundated with sunlight, and is planted with orange-trees, and surrounded on three sides by hotels and boarding-houses, and on the fourth by the Palace of the Ayuntawiento. The Calle de Genova, at the S. W. angle of the square, leads to the

Cathedral. — This marvellous ch., with its famous tower of the Giralda, is a city in itself. Nowhere else in Europe is the splendor and majesty of the Catb-^Jia

SPAIN. ,t23

religion so well seen as here. The Giralda, a veritable marvel of Arab architecture, was the minaret of the old mosque of the Moorish Kings, who governed Seville after the destruction of the Khalifate. It was built dur- ing the 12th century by the Arab El Ghebir, who was the inventor of algebra. The tower is 350 ft. high. In 1568 it was capped with a belfry, which in its turn is surmounted by an enormous statue of Faith, which despite its immense weight serves as a weather-vane. The Cathedral proper was begun in 1403, finished 1519. The most striking entrance is the Fuerta del Perdon, which was probably in old times the entrance to a miuaret. It opens on the Orange Court, from v/hich you pass nuder a fine Arabic arch into the Cathedral by the so-called Lizard Door. Notice especially tlie Chief Altar, the Choir, the gigantic Organs, tlie 2hmb of Fernando Columbus, the Capilla Real, which contains the tomb of St. Ferdinand, and the tomb of Alfonso the Wise : also a portrait of Ferdinand, by Murillo, in the chapel of the Baptistery. Observe the noted picture rep- resenting St. Anthony of Padua, which Vv^as cut out of its frame and carried off to New Yoric in 1875, and has now been restored. In the upper sacristy there are also several paintings by the same artist. In the sacristy of Los Calices is a St. Dorotliea by Murillo, an " Ecce Homo " by Morales, and a remarkable painting by Goya. In the SacrisHa Mai/or is the vast and magnificent custodia in silver made in 1587 by Juan de Arfe. It is in the form of a circular temple, crowned with a statue of St. John and covered with a most prodigious number of ornaments and statues. Seville during Holy Week presents a con- stant succession of curious spectacles, religious in character. From the top ^f the Giralda Tower, which is reached b.y an inclined plane, up which

4:24: SEVILLE. — THE ALCAZAE.

it is said two horses can be ridden abreast, ^ood view of the town, the river winding through tlie plains, and the hills beyond. Leaving tlie Cathedral by the Qiralda Door, you reach the square on which is the Archbishop'' s Palace. Thence go round the Cathedral to the Plaza del Triunfo, where is a monument com- memorating the earthquake of 1755. In the middle of this square is the Lonja, where is a precious collection of documents relative to the discovery and conquest Oi America. This is called the Indian archives. Not far away is

The Alcazar. — This is, with the Mosque at Cordova and the Alhambra at Granada, the most beautiful & Moorish monument in Spain. It was connected witl? W the great walls that ran round Seville in the time ol the Arabs, In the Alcazar were born and died the Kings Alfonso the Wise, Don Sancho IV., and Alfonso XI., father of Don Pedro the Cruel. The local guides, who are very civil and obliging, and satisfied with reasonable pay, will give you full description of the || beauties of the Alcazar. Ask the guide to take you -« through the modern royal rooms, inhabited by the Monarchs of Spam whenever they visit Seville. The gardens of the Alcazar are delightful.

The Casa de Pilatos, or House of Pilate, is an edifice built at the beginning of the 16th century, by the first Marquis of Tarifa. Tradition says he had brought back from a Journey made to Jerusalem in 1519 a quantity of earth from the very house of Pontius Pilate, and this was sufficient to form the layer on which were laid the foundations ol the present palace, built on the plans of the dwelling of Pilate at Jerusalem. There are a great nuni- ber of curious and interesting palaces and pri- vate houses to be seen in Seville. The Casa de los

SPAIN. 423

•

Taveros, where tlie tribunal of the Inquisition had its sitting, will attract the traveller's attention. The guides procure admission for you to the patios of the richest houses, where you can get an idea of the luxury and beauty of these southern Spanish residences. The Ch. of S. Kartino has some good pictures. The B.?s- 'pifal of La Caridad, or the Charity, near the Goldeu Tower, which stands on the bank of the Guadalquivir, contains several of Murillo's best paintings. The pro- vincial museuui is also quite rich in the works of Murillo, Zurbaran, and other noted artists. Murillo was born in Seville^ Jan. 1, 1618. The Palace of Santelmo, the residence of the Duke of Montpensier, is one of the marvels of this city. Its gardens now i'orm the Parqiie 3£aria Luisa. Seville is as busy and thriving as Cordova is deserted and shabby. The banks of the Guadalquivir are lined with ware^^ houses, and the traffic is very brisk. From Seville, if you adopt our plan for a short Spanish journey, we recommend you to proceed directly to Madrid. If you have not stopped at Cordova on your way down, but have gone directly through from the Alcazar de S. Juan, as many do, you may halt there on your return journey. Time from Seville to Cordova, nearly 4 hrs.; fares, 65 r. 60, 49 r. 30, 29 r. 45. From Cordova to Madrid it is 2745 M. ; time by ordinary trains, 16 hrs.; fares, 321 r., 171 r., 104 r. 98. The express rates are somewhat higher. In the late summer and autumn months there is an express train, 3 times a week each, way, between Madrid and Seville. Between the Alcazar de S. Juan and Madrid is the station of Casfillijo, where you may branch off to Toledo, but we do not recommend this. It is better to go to Madrid first ; then to make the Toledo visit a round-trip excui> sion of one day. A little beyond Castillijo is

4:26 ARANJUEZ. — MADRID.

•

Aranjuez, M-itli refreshment buffet. This is one of the summer residences of the Spanish court. Here is apalace, beautifully situated, commanding an immense view; but there is little that is architecturally striking in the building. The gardens are quite remarkable. The river Tagus flows through the domain.

Madrid (Grand Hotel de la Paz; Be Roma; Be Paris; Fonda de los Embajadores; IngUs; Penin- sular; ^ Cuatro Naziones; Oriente), with 510,000 mhab., is the capital of Spain, the residence of the Court, and contains the finest paintings in Europe. John Hay said of Madrid that it was a "capital with malice aforethought," by which he alluded to its situation in the midst of a great arid plain, swept in winter by the murderous winds from the mts. We recommend the tourist to devote liis chief attention to the museum ; then, if his time permits, to include the other edifices and collections of Madrid.

The Museo del Prado contains vast and absolutely unrivalled collection of the works of the old masters, but they are not very well arranged. Two immense galleries are consecrated to Spanish painters, and oth- ers contain the different Italian, French, Flemish, aud Dutch schools. Some idea of the riches of the museum can be formed from the statement that it contains 46 pictures by Murillo, 14 by Zurbaran, 58 by Eibera, 64 by Velasquez, 55 by Teniers, 16 by llubens, 10 by Raphael, 20 by Poussin, 66 by Luca Giordano, 22 by Yan Dyck, 54 by Breughel, 16 by Claude Lorraine, 16 by Guido Reni, 43 by Titian, 54 by Tintoretto, and 25 by Paul Veronese, About half-way down the principal gallery a door opens into an oval hall called the Salon de la Reyna Isabel. Here are grouped together the chefs d'oeuvre of the museum. The guardians are very attentive. Catalogues edited witJi

SPAINo 427

great care may be had at the booksellers', or at the museum.

In the Real Academia de Bellas Aries there is a collection of about 300 pictures, in 11 large rooms: Murillo, Goya, Rubens, and Zurbaran are well repre- sented. The Museo de Arte Moderno contains modern Spanish paintings and sculptures. There are several interesting private collections in Madrid. The couriers at the hotels will indicate them to you.

The Royal Palace (Palacio Real) is situated in the W. part of the town. Among the 80 rooms on the 1st floor, the largest and finest is the Hall uf the Ambassa- dors. The vault was painted by Tiepolo, and represents the exaltation of the Spanish monarchy. The walls are draped with velvet embroidered with gold, and 12 im- mense mirrors also decorate it. On the r. of the throne, which is guarded by 4 gilded bronze lions, is a statue of Prudence, and on the 1. that of Justice. Tlie chapel is extremely rich, but not very handsome. The library, the theatre, the magnificent collection of Flemish tapes- tries, should be seen. On the S. of the square of the Pa- lacio Real is the Armeria (Museum of Armor), which contains an extremely interesting collection. Here are, among many relics of famous dead, the sword of the Cid Campeador, that of the Great Captain, Gon- zalvo of Cordova, and that of Don Juan of Austria: also the helmet of Francis I, The Militarif Museum of Artillery, at the Buenretiro, is also worth visiting. At the entrance are colossal statues of Philip IV. and Louis I. The museum gives a complete review of the progress made in artillery from the 12th to the 17th century. Here also are many flags carried during the Spanish conquest of America The naval museum, the cabinet of natural history, the botanical garden, the

428 MADRID.

library (small but good) deserve a visit. Madrid tas several important libraries, most noticeable among whicli are those of the University and of the legislative bodies.

The Palace of the Congress, or Chamber of Deputies, is a handsome building, but not very remarkable. Its interior is very richly ornamented with fine paintings : that of the Senate occupies the old ch. of an Augustin- ian convent. In the great square of the Puerta del Sol is the Ministry of the Interior, formerly a post-office. The other public buildings and the Palaces are rather cold and formal in structure. The effect of the architec- ture of Madrid is not pleasing, compared Math the won- derful richness of decoration to M^hich the eye has become accustomed in Southern Spain. See in the Plaza Mai/or the equestrian statue of Philip III. ; and in the Plaza de Oriente the statue of Philip IV. In the Plaza de las Cortes is a statue of Cervantes. None, of the churches is particularly striking; the Catedrdl de Nuestra Senot^a de la Almudena is on the site of the old Armory, The Ch. of the Atocha, a modern Romanesque structure, contains the tombs of General Castanos, of Marshal Prim, and of other notabilities. In the old church the marriages of the royal family were celebrated, and the troops took the oath of allegiance. The cemeteries in the neighborhood of Madrid, with their long rows of walls in which the dead are sealed up, are very interesting. ^h.& Plaza de Tor o>^, or the BuH Ring of Madrid, is one of the largest in the kingdom. It is a structure in Arabic style, built of brick, stone, and iron, and can seat 13,300 people. Every seat is numbered, and tickets to the bull-fights, which are usually given every Sunday from April to October, are comparatively inexpensive. Be careful in choosing your place to note whether it is on the shady or the sunny side. This is very important in Spain.

SPAIN. 429

The comic opera and some of the minor theatres should be visited. The Prado is a large boulevard which runs roaud a great part of the city, from the old Atocha : gate to the Puerta de Recoletos. The Royal Museum is on this boulevard. Here on summer evenings is a maguiiicent display of Spanish beauty : commemorative ; monument here to the second of Ma_^ one of the epi- 1 sodes of the French occupation of 1^)8. Tliere are j numerous other line promenades within the city. The \ Pueria de Alcald, an arch of triumph to commemorate j the entry of Charles III. into Madrid, may be seen on the way to the Bull Ring. The Puerta de Toledo was I built to celebrate the return of Ferdinand VII. from his I captivity. The Plaza de, Madrid is quite fine. I There are several bridges over the little river I Manzanares, which oddly enough is for the greater part of the year without any water in its channel. The Puerta del Sol is a gay plaza in the centre of the city. About 7 Mo from Madrid, on the r. bank )f the Manzanares, is the Royal Palace of the Pardo. Sxcursion to the Esourial may be made. It is 31-| M. from Madrid ; five trains daily ; fares, 25 r. 50, 19 r. 25, 11 r. 50. The Escurial is called by the Spaniards the eighth wonder of the world. Philip II. built it in 1685 to comtnemorate the taking of St. Quentin, and to ac- complish a vow which he made to St. Lawrence. This vast building has 15 principal entrances, and more than 1,100 windows. It is entirely built of granite, and its appearance is monotonous and cold. The ch., the Capilla Meyor, filled with royal monuments, the sac- ' risty, a vast vaulted hall with a marble altar orna- mented with bronze, the choir, and the pantheon or vault, where the kinsrs of Spain are buried, are the prin- I cipal things to see. You reach the pantheon by a masr- .^^cent sta i 'ease of granite and marble. The urn con-

I3G TOLEDO.

taming the remains of Charles V. was opened in 1870, and the body was even then in perfect preservation. The Library of books and tlie MS. Library will attract the attention of scholars. The n)ain entrance to the palace is in the middle of the N. fapade. See the Hall of Battles, covered with frescos representing Spanish conqnests ; and the apartments in which Philip II. lived and died. The Pavilion of Charles IV., called the Casa del Prmcipe, is a charming little mnsenm of paintings, sculptures, and mosaics. See the King's Seat, where Philip II. came to sit when presidiug over the work of the palace. The royal abode of La Granja is on the route from Madrid to Segovia. Its apartments are said to be even more splendid than those of the palace at Madrid.

There are two routes from Madrid to the ancient and picturesque town of Toledo. One leads through the royal residence town of Aranjuez ; the other is a little more direct ; fares about the same by both lines.

Toledo {Hotel Castilla; Fonda del Worte; Fonda de Lino; Fonda Imperial) is one of the most remarkable towns in Europe. The riy. stat. is in the valley at the foot of the hill, near the fine Alcantara Bridge. An omnibus takes passengers from the train to the top of the hill. On the way up observe the fine view in the valley, where old Toledo, which was a town of 200,000 inhab., was situated. The Toledo of to-day has only about 30,000. The river Tagus makes a great curve around the town. It is crossed by the Alcantara and the 8. Martino Bridges. The aspect of the city is majestic. Immense ramparts on the rocks ; great gates flanked with Moorish towers : old Puerta Visagra, which dates from the Arabic domination ; the celebrated Puerta del Sol, in the interior of the city, a chef d'oeuvre ' of Arabic architecture, are all impressive. The pria*

SPAIN. 431

cipal square is the old Zocodover, to-day called the Place of the Constitution. The principal objects of interest are the Cathedral, the Alcazar the celebrated Ch. and Convent of S. Juan de los Rei/es, and a military college. The Cathedral was loegun in 1237, and finished 2\ centuries later. Its arcliitecture is pure Gothic: exterior of great majesty. The prnicipal W. front has 3 doors, called those of the Escrilmios, the Perdon,' and the Torre, Door of the Pardon is the largest and richest. To the r. of the fagade is the tower : on the 1. the Mozarabic chapel. The tower is nearly SOO ft. high, and the great bell in it weighs nearly 40,000 lbs. The beauties of the Cathedral are so numerous that we renounce a detailed uescription of them here. Observe particularly the Door of the Lions and its rich chapels, the Capilla Mai/or, the wonderful effect of the vast range of stained-glass windows, especially when the sun is shining througli tliem in the morning, the Coro, a.nd tlie beautiful Gothic portal of the Sala Capitular. The Tombs of the Coustable Don Alvaro de Lima and of the Cardinal de Albornoz are very imposing.

The Ch. of S. Juan de los Reyes (1477) is ornamented with a great number of chains hung on the walls out- side, memorials of captivities among Moslems. The cloisters, recently restored, are among the most beautiful in the world. The stone sculptures here are of extraordinary delicacy and finish. The provincial museum contains a collection of about 300 pictures. 8. Maria la Blanco, is a curious memorial of the Jewish epoch. The Military College contains about 600 cadets, who study their profession here from the age of 13 to 18 years. The Alcazar is a superb edifice which Drosses the nighest point of the hill on which the city is built. At the 4 angles of its walls are square towers. The courtyard is formed of 33 arcades. It has been

432 VALLADOLID. - BURGOS.

three times bin'ned and three times restored. Iiv the court is a group commemorating the conquest of Tunis by Charles V. See the Pasto de las Rosas; the Paseo de Madrid.

Valladolid {Francia, Calle de Teresa Gil; Siglo, Plaza de S. Ana) is the next place of interest; although from the junction of Medina del Campo you can go by branch lines to the old university town of Sala- manca, or to Zamora. Valladolid is a town of 65,000 inhab., on the Pisuerga. Here see University , Cathe- dral, Santa Maria la Antigua, San Pablo, Colegio de San Gregorio, Museum, and Royal Palace. The University Library has a collection of Bibles. See Juan de Juni's "Virgen de los Cuchillos" in the church of Las Angustias, and house where Columbus died in 1506. The Museum of Valladolid, which is located in the Colegio de Santa Cruz, contains sculp" tures in wood and examples of the works of Rubens, Mascagni, Carducci, and Cardenas. The principal treasure of the cathedral is a magnificent custodia, or tabernacle, in silver.

Burgos (Hotels : Fonda del Norte; Paris), with 32,000 nihab., may be seen in a short time. Notice \\\e Bronze Statue of Charles III. ; the celebrated Casa del Cordoji; the Oasade Miranda, covered with sculp- tures; the Espolon, beautifully decorated, vvdth 3 fine alleys bordered with trees, filled with statues, gardens, and fountains ; the Cathedral, one of the marvels of the 13th century. Its portal and 2 clock-towers are of Goth- ic architecture. The principal fapade towards the W. is a marvel of stone lacework. The interior is magnifi- cent, and ornamented with pictures, statues, tombs, sculptures, bas-reliefs, etc Observe the Tomb of the Constable of Castille. In Ch. of S. Estehan is a very fine Cena. Notice the Triumphal Arch raised by Philip il, to Pemando Gonzales : also the house of the Cid, or the monument erected in 1784 on the rums of that

SPAIN. 433

house. In the City Hall are the remaLis of the Great Captain and his wife, enclosed in a sculptured wooden colfin. The Arch of S. Maria is very handsome. Many fine excursions in the vicinity of Burgos.

The towns of Vittoria, Pamplona, Bilbao, and San Sebastian (the pretty watering-place frequented in late years by English and Americans) all deserve attention; but the tourist will hardly find time to stop at any of them. The frontier of France is reached at I?^u7i. There is little of importance to see in Irun : memorials of the Carlist civil war in all this neighborhood. Hendaye is the first French station. A little beyond it is >S'. Jean de Luz. The old town of FontaraMa may be reached from Irun.

Next comes Biarritz {Grand Hotel; Victoria et de la Plage; HAngleterre; Pes Princes; Pes Amhas^ sadeurs; Pe V Europe; good Casino here; omnibus to Bayonne every half hour), one of the most popu- lar seaside resorts on the S. coast of France, It was a favorite resort of the Empress Eugenie.

Bayonne, 23f M. from Irun {Hotel du Commerce; St. JEtienne; Pes Anibassadeurs; Pe France; Castille), with 27,000 inhab., is at the confluence of the Adcur and the Nive. Fine stained glass windows in the Cathedral, 15th century. The Place Gram^ mont po^itams the Theatre, the Mairie, and the (yu-°tm^ House, Good view of the sea from the citadel. The bayonet was invented here, whence its £tame.

434 LISBON

PORTUGAL.

WE have thought it probable that the vacatioa tourists would not be likely to push their jour- ney as far as Lisbon, but we give a short paragrapli con- cerning the journey to Portugal. Tares from Madrid to Badajos,'61\\ M., 299 r. 50, 227 r. 91, 145 r. 87. From Badajos to Lisbon it is 174^ M., 5,260 reis, 4,100 r., 2,930 r. ; time, 10 hrs. ; 2 trains a day. Lisbon time is 25 min. slower than that of Madrid. The reis, the Portuguese monetary unit, is about \ centime, or 2| mills : each franc is therefore worth 200 reis. The conto de reis, or a million of reis, is 500 francs. The Spanish real, 25 centimes, is 46 reis. On the way from Badajos to Lisbon you pass through Santarem, where there are many curious remains of the Moorish architecture of the Middle Ages.

, Lisbon, in Portuguese Lishoa {Avenida Palace; Grand Hotel Central, situated on the Bay; Continen- \tal; Braganga; Durand, mod. charges), with 310,000 tniiiib., is on the r. bank of the river Tagiis, built in an amphitheatre on numerous hills. The general view of Lisbon on approaching it by river or by rail is magnificent. The finest streets are those of the D'm'O do Praga Augusta, tlie Chiado, and Alecrim. The Commercial Square, Praga do Commercio, has tlie largest and most remarkable public buildings in the city. It is also called the Esplanade of the Hills. In the middle is the colossal equestrian bronze statue of Jose I. On 3 sides of the square are sumptuous buildings, the Exchange, the Custom House, the Post Office,ihQ Ministries, e.tr' On the middle of the N. side.

PORTUGAL. 435

magnificent Triumphal Arch. The Cathedral, Chs. of S. Antonio, of S. Roqiie, of the Carmelites, and many convents have rich collections of art treasures. The Royal Palace, or Pa^o das Necessidades, faces a small square of the same name. See Botanical Gardens, reported the finest m the world. Observe beautiful aqueduct which crosses the Alcantara Valley. The Library of the Royal Academy of Sciences, National Museum of Fine Arts, and the San Carlos and Dona Maria Segunda Theatres should be seen. There are but few remains of old Lisbon, which was destroyed by the great earthquake. The inclined plane rlys. are convenient ; fine views on many of them. The Belem possesses a great many fine gardens. The old Jieiem Monastery is worth a visit. Ramalhao, the Almada Mqfra, a vast convent ch., and the Palace of Cintra, where is an old castle of the Moors, are the principal suburban points for excursions. From Lisbon there is weekly steam communication with South America, with the East, and with England. A journey may be made to Oporto, taking Coimhra on the way. Eares to Oporto, 6,610 reis, 5,140 r., 3,680 r. ; time, 11-| lirs. ; distance, 158^ M.

Coimbra {Continental; Mondego; Braganga) is on the r. bank of the Mondego and has a most delicious climate. It is very rich in poetic tradition and has numerous manufactures of faience. The Homans made it one of their most important military posts. To- day the remains of the old walls are still to be seen. JJniversity , with 900 students here. The old Cathedral is Byzantine, and quite rich in character. The Chapel of the Twelve Apostles is remarkable^ Yisit Quinfa das Lagrimas Park with its Fonte dos Amour, where lived Inez de Castro, sung by Camoens«

436 OPORTO. - PAU.

Oporto {Hotel Francfort; Grand Hotel; H^tel d^ Paris), with 140,000 inhab., is the second city of Por- tugal. It is built on 2 hills, and the valleys which ex- tend between these are filled with charming villas and couutry-houses. The effect of the Quintas, or Terraces, is quite delightful. The Cathedral, or La Se, is not especially striking. The town is divided into 3 quar- ters, the oldest of which, San Martmho, has but little of importance. The Royal Hospital, the Ch. Bos Cleri- gos (with its high tower), the elegant theatre, the great barracks, the Episcopal Palace, the Ch. of Our Lady oj Lapa, where the heart of Emperor Dom Pedro I V. is preserved, and the interior of the Ch. of S. Francisco ; also the libraries, 65,000 vols., the Exchange, and the Museum, merit brief attention. Oporto is a thriving commercial town. Erom Lisbon to Foora it is 72 M. ; fares 3,120 r., 2,390 r., 1,610 r.

Evora is a highly fortified city of 12,000 inhab., in the midst of beautiful fields filled with orange, olive, and fig groves. Many Homan antiquities here. Erom Lisbon a rly. runs to Faro, 169|- M.

Faro, on the S. coast of Portugal, is a small town of 10,000 mhab., with a good cathedral ; fine military hos- pital, large and well-built streets, and an excellent port. Just opposite it, in the Atlantic Ocean, is a small group of islands.

Erom Bayonne it is 65f M. (fares, 13 fr., 9 fr.* 75 c. 7fr. 20c.)to

Pau {Hotel Oassion, a splendid edifice ; Bellevue; Splendide; Be France; Beau Sejour; de la Poste; Cirand Hotel; delaPaix; deVFurope. Pensions: Colbert; Hattersley. Restaurants: Gassion, Com- merce, de la Borade), with 29,000 inhab., is one of the most important towns in the lower Pyrenees, and is a favorite winter resort because of its delicious climate.

FRANCE. 437

Tjiie is rather expensive at Pan, but there are a great number ot strangers there yearly; abundance of beautifally lurniohed apartments to be had. The town IS divided into 2 parts by the little brooklet called the Grave, over which there are 5 bridges. The Castle of Henri IV. (open dailv except Mon. from 10 to noon and from 2 to 4 p.m.), near Pau, is well worth visiting. Magnificent Flemish tapestries made by order of Francis L, in the great Hall of the States. The Ch. of S. Martin, modern ; the Palace of Jus- tice; the Museum (open Thurs. and Sun., from 1 to 5, free, and every day for a small fee) ; the Place Roy ale, with a statue of Henri IV., may all readily be seen in a few hours. From Pau 24 M. rly. to Laruns, thence omnibus to Eaux-Bonnes {Hotel des Princes ; He France ; Continental) and Haux- Chaudes. The former town receives between 6 and 10,000 invalids and tourists annually; vast bathing establishments here, also Casino, concert halls, theatre, reading rooms, etc. The thermal establish- ment at 'E&\i-x.-Qh.aM6.e% {Hotel Baudot; He France) Is one of the best arranged in the Pyrenees. The waters are especially successful in catarrh, rheuma- lism, and skin diseases. For full description of this Pyrenean bath region we cannot do better than to refer you to the work on the Pyrenees by Adolphe and Paul Joanne, published by Hachette, Paris.

Cauterets {Hotel Continental; He France; HAn- gteterr&t Du Pare) may be reached via Pau and TarDes. There are 24 springs here and 9 bathing establishments; about 20,000 tourists visit Cauterets annually. Beautiful excursions in the neighbor- hood. Groing N., after leaving Bayonne, the first place of importance is

Bordeaux {Hotel de France; I)e Bayonne; He Faisan; Des Princes et de la Paix; Hes Americains;

436

OPORTO. -PAU.

Oporto {Hotel Francfort; Grand Hotel; H^tel dp^ Paris), with 140,000 inhab., is the second city of Por- tugal. It is built on 2 hills, and the valleys which ex- tend between these are filled with charming villas and couiitry-houses. The effect of the Quintets, or Terraces, is quite delightful. The Cathedral, or La Se, is not especially striking. The town is divided into 3 quar- ters, the oldest of wliich, San Martinho, has but little of importance. The Royal Hospital, the Ch. Bos Cleri- os (witli its high tower), the elegant theatre, the great arracks, the Episcopal Palace, the Ch. of Our Lady oj Lapa, where the heart of Emperor Dom Pedro IV. is preserved, and the interior of the Ch. of S. Francisco ; also the libraries, 65,000 vols., the Exchange, and the Museum, merit brief attention. Oporto is a thriving commercial town. Prom Lisbon to Fcora it is 72 M. ; fares 3,120 r., 2,390 r., 1,610 r.

Evora is a highly fortified city of 12,000 inhab., in the midst of beautiful fields filled with orange, olive, and fig grov^es. Many Roman antiquities here. Prom Lisbon a rly. runs to Faro, 169|- M.

Faro, on the S. coast of Portugal, is a small town of 10,000 uihab., with a good cathedral; fine military hos- pital, large and well-built streets, and an excellent port. Just opposite it, in the Atlantic Ocean, is a small group of islands.

Prom Bayonne it is 65f M. (fares, 13 fr., 9 fr.*75 c. 7fr. 20c.)to

Pau {Hotel Oassion, a splendid edifice ; Bellevue; Splendide; De France; Beau Sejour; de la Poste; Grand Hotel; delaPaix; deV Europe. Pensions; Colbert; Hatter sley. Restaurants: Gassion, Com- merce, de la Dorade), with 29,000 inhab., is one of the most important towns in the lower Pyrenees, and is a favorite winter resort because of its delicious climate.

or ^" ' -

town IS ii' *!*'■

iMOP'';

miilivi-.:. - byoi'ilei'': fhefi' ■ fetliel^ 5,free,;in;l' Mj(i(, «'■ ■ ' ■ te m in '■ kimtlii'i''" Mtim; /'' •' (Ihmh T ' ■' laOll !!!■■: ■ •

theatre, ri* I;: MtntEaux-C

■ i^ one o: ■ WtePi:'- •

?yreaeaii k refer tou h • and Pan! J Cauterets . ikk'n, I, V«5, T:, estal]!ishni<::

vnsj

Tji

Bordeav

FRANCE.

437

iJcitrofPor^

''"I?* and

1'^ Of Terraces,

^- k is not

■'^iato Sonar.

aw., ID [e, olive,

Life is rttther expensive at Pan, but there are a great number oi' strangers there yearly; abundance of beautifally lurnisheLl apartments to be had. The town is divided into S parts by the little brooklet called the Grave, over which there are 5 bridges. The Castle of Henri IV. (open dailv except Mon. from 10 to noon and from 2 to 4 p.3i.), near Pau, is well worth visiting. Magnificent Flemish tapestries made by order of Francis L, in the great Hall of the States. The CJi. of S. llartin, modern ; the Palace of Jus- tice; the Museum (open Thurs. and Sun., from 1 to 5, free, and every day for a small fee) ; the Place Roy ale, with a statue of Henri IV., may all readily be seen in a few hours. From Pau 24 M. rly. to Laruns, thence omnibus to Eaux-Bonnes {Hotel des Princes ; De France ; Continental) and JEaux- CJiaudes. The former town receives between 6 and 10,000 invalids and tourists annually; vast bathing establishments here, also Casino, concert halls, theatre, reading rooms, etc. The thermal establish- ment at Eaux-Chaudes {Hotel Baudot; De France) Is one of the best arranged in the Pyrenees. The waters are especially successful in catarrh, rheuma- lism, and skin diseases. For full description of this Pyrenean bath region we cannot do better than to refer you to the work on the Pyrenees by Adolphe and Paul Joanne, published by Hachette, Paris.

Cauterets {Hotel Continental; De France; D^An- Qieterr% Du Pare) may be reached via Pau and Taroes. There are 24 springs here and 9 bathing establishments; about 20,000 tourists visit Cauterets annually. Beautiful excursions in the neighbor- hood. Gfoing N,, after leaving Bayonne, the first place of importance is

Bordeaux {Hotel de France; De Bayonne; De Faisan; Des Prmces et de la Paix; Des Americains;

438 BORDEAUX.

ConfortaMe ; Commercial), with 256,000 inhab., a beautiful town on tlie 1. bank of tlie Garonne. The city takes the form of a crescent, which it bears on its coat of arms. The Garonne River here is very wide and deep, and navigable for nearly all classes of steamships. See the Bordeaux bridge, built in 1819, from which admirable view of the river, and its banks lined with palaces, warehouses, and shops. The Place de la Comedie, on which stands a great theatre, is the principal rendezvous for strangers. All the principal hotels are in this neighborhood ; but the largest of all the squares in Bordeaux is the Place des Quinconces. Here are the Rostral columns, surmounted by statues of Com- merce and Navigation. There are also marble statues here of Montaigne and of Montesquieu ; an equestrian statue of Napoleon III., which stood in the Tourny alley, was taken down in 1870. The oldest monument in Bordeaux is an amphitheatre called the Palais Gallien. This is supposed to have been built by the Romans, in the 3d century. The Cathedral of S. Andre was con- secrated in 1090 ; rebuilt at different epochs ; and is now- being restored. Near the Cathedral is the Bell Toioer of Pey-Berland, so called after the Bishop who built it, in 1440. The ch. of S. Michel, founded 1160, belongs to the ogival order. It also has an isolated bell tower. The ancient ch. of S. Croix has a rich fayade recently restored. The Palace of Justice has numerous statues of noted rrenchmen. In the vestibule of the court stands a statue of Montesquieu. Many of the other public buildnigs are adorned with sculptures and paintings. The great Theatre has a fine vestibule orna- mented with Ionic columns. It was in this theatre that the National Assembly held its sessions in 1871, and that the nation resolved to make peace with the Prus- sians. The Museum, founded 1803, has about 600

FRANCE 439

pictures of moderate merit; catalogue, 5o c. ', museum opeu Suii., Moil., and Tliurs., 10-3 ; other days small fee. See Library, 200,000 vols , the Museum of Antiquities and the Museum of Natural History, also the Bonie Museum. In the chapel of the Lycee, on the Cours des Torres, is the tomb of Mon- tesquieu. Bordeaux is a very important commerciai port : steam navigation with South America, Russia, Holland, Eugland and Ireland, New York, and New Orleans, The public garden is a pretty promenade. The watering-places of Bagneres de Bigorre and BagU' eres de Lmchon may both be couveniently reached from Bordeaux.

From Bordeaux it is 34f M. (fares, 4 fr. 65 c, 3 fr. 55 c, 2 fr. 45 c.) to

Arcachon (^Grand Hotel ; Legallais ; De France: Richelieu; Jampj/). This is a charming seaside resort on the Bay of Biscay ; and in the pine forest which stretches along the coast are a great number of winter villas. The Casino is a charming palace with Moresque cupolas and minarets. About 100,000 persons visit Arcachon annually. From Bordeaux it is 159^ M, (time, 5 1 hrs., fares, 3i fr. 65 c, 23 fr. 75 c, 17 fr, 40 c.) to

Towloxxse {Hotel Tioollier ; T)e T Europe ; Souville), with 147,000 inhab. This is the old capital of Lan- guedoc, on the r. bank of the Garonne. There is but little of interest to the tourist here except the Cathedral of St. Etietine and the Museum (founded 1792) of an- tiquities, pictures, and plaster casts. From Bordeaux to Paris it is 35 8| M. ; time, about 9 hrs. by express ; fares, 72 fr. 5 c., 54 fr. 5 c, 39 fr. 65 c. You pass through Angouieme, Poitiers, Tours, and Orleans.

Angouleme {Hotel du Palais; de France), on the Charunte, is an old town built on a rocky hill, and has a

440 VICHY. — AIX-LES-BAINS.

fine Gothic Cathedral, Theatre^ a Cabinet of Natural History, and a good Library,

Poitiers {Hotel du Palais ; I)e V Europe ; De France'^ is near the river Ciain. Its finest square is the Place d'Armes. Catliedral in Goiliic style, with very lofty halls. Interesting ch, of S. Hilaire, also the Byzantine Notre Dame ; many Roman antiquities here ; Palace of Justice, vi^ith room much like Westminster Hall in I^ondon. The English held this town 300 years. 4 Mo from Poitiers is the battle-field where the Black Prince defeated the French under John, in 1356.

Orleans and Tours, see pages 197-198.

Two of the most celebrated of French summer- resorts are Vichy and Aix-les-Bains, both of which are easily reached from Lyons.

Vichy {Hotel des Ainbassadeiirs ; Bu Cherhourg . Du Pare ; Des Princes; Momhrun; De Richelieu; Di Louvre) is on the banks of the Allier, in a pretty valley enclosed in an amphitheatre of hills. It is the most popular watering-place in Prance, Wonderful cures of gout and rheumatism are reported from Vichy. Bath- ing season begins May 1 and ends October 1. The old town, with its ruined walls and ancient towers, is striking. Most of the hotels are around or near the old Park, at one end of which is the bathing establish- ment, and at the other the Casino.

Aix-les-Bains (^Grand Hotel d'Aix ; De V Europe ; Bernascon et Regijia ; Du Centre ; International; Du Nord et Grande Bretagne) is a very popular watering-place in Savoy, 8 M. from Chambery ; 9 sul- phur springs here effect important cures. See Roman remains ; Casi7io, Baths; English Ch. Beautiful ex- cursions to source of the Marlizo; to the Abbey of Haute Combe, where are the tombs of the House of Savoy ; to the Nivolet; to the Mollard Garden; to the Cascade; to Gresy; and to the An^iecy.

COPENHAGEN. 441

A TOUR IN THE NORTH.

FROM Hamburg, in Germany (see page 239), 3'^ou may, if time permits, make a tour of great interest in the North. We will for the present con- tent ourselves with briefly laying down some skeleton routes for a short journey through portions of Den- mark, Norway, Sweden, and Russia. You may begia vour trip by going to the chief city in Denmark. From Hamburg to the German naval depot of Kiel it is 3 hrs. by rail; from Kiel to Korsor by steamer 5 hrs. ; and from Korsor it is 2| hrs. to Copenhagen. Or you may go all the way by rail from Hamburg to Copenhagen, by Schleswig, 220 M., in 124- hrs. (fares, 28 k. 95 o., 21 k. 10 5.).

Practical Information. — The money in Denmark, Norway, and Sweden is reckoned in krone (k.) and ore, or 0re (5.). There are 100 o. in 1 k. ; 90 ore=:l shil- ling. — Steamboat schedules are frequently altered ; remember this in making plans. — The best season for travelling in these countries is from June to mid-Sep- tember.— For a journey to the North Cape, select June or July. — T\i.Q fjords of the Western Coast of Norway should be seen if possible. See Baedeker, and an ex- cellent Guide du Voi/ageur, published in Stockholm, for detailed trips.

Copenhagen {Phoenix; King of Denmark ; D^ An- gleterre; Ilonopol; Dagmar; National), 409,000 inh., stands upon the E. coast of Zealand, and is enclosed in a line of fortifications, now used as a promenada. The panorama of batteries, docks, stores, and arsenals, as seen from the sea, is quite imposing. The E»

443 COPENHAGEN^

part of the harbor is protected by the Castle of Frederikshavn. Part of the city is built on the small Island of Amager, and is called G hristianshavn. The channel between the two islands forms the port. Copenhagen has a great number of palaces and public buildings, and 2 to 3 days may well be spent in inspecting the art collections. The royal residences are quite numerous. Amalienborg, the chief house of the royal family, consists of four small palaces. That next to the Colonnade is the king's; the second is the Foreign Office; the third contains state apartments; the fourth pertains to the crown prince. Bronze Statue of Frederick T. in the square. The JRoyal Chapel faces the ruins ol the Christiansborg Palace, burned down in 1884. The handsome 3-towered Gothic Rosenborg GastU is in the centre of the King's garden. There see Chronological collection of the Danish Kings — - rooms dedicated to each king, and filled with relics of his life and deeds. The Audience Chamber of Christian IV, ; the golden cups ; the bedroom in ■which Christian IV. died, in 1648 ; the Marble Hall ; the beautiful room called the Rose ; and the Turret Chamber are the other curiosities. ■ Observatory near this palace. FrederiTcsberg Pal- 'ace (now a military school) is 1 M. out, in a beau- tiful park. Zoological Gardens near by. In the Vor-Frue-Kirke (Ch. of Our Lady) are famous sculp- tures by Thorwaldsen ; and in an alcove his coffin was placed at the funeral, while the royal family stood bareheaded round it„ See Thorwaldsen's Bap- tismal Font; also two bas-reliefs — the Baptism of Christ and the Last Supper. The Art Museum con- tains a fine collection of modern Danish paintings « and sculptures (not Thorwaldsen's), and also a num- ■ ber by older artists, being especially rich in examples ' of the Rembrandt school. The Old Glyptothek and the New Glyptothek contain very valuable collectiaus «if fencient and modern sculpture respectively.

COPENHAGEN. 443

The greatest curiosity in Copenhagen is Tliorwald- sen's Museum, built by subscription to contain casts of all his works and many originals (daily 11-3; on Mon., Tues., Thurs., Sat. adm. 50 5.; catalogues at hotels and museum). Here also is the tomb of the great sculptor.- In the Prindsens-Palaisisthe'Na- tional Museum, containing the Danish Collection (prehistoric and historic) of northern antiquities, the Ethnographic Collection, and the Collection of An- tiquities, Open daily, except Monday, 12 or 1 to 3. Visitors should see the Arsenal, close to the Chris- tiansborg Palace (open Wed., 1-3). Hoy al Library (550.000 vols.) close by. Beautiful new equestrir'i statue in bronze opposite the palace.

The Exchange, the Museum of Natural History, the Universit!/, Library, the CIi. of the Trinity, with its famous Round Tower (built by Christian IV.), Count Moltke's collection of pictures (Wed., 12-2), and the pretty theatres are enough to keep visitors busily oc- cupied for a week. — -Near Copenhagen is Charlotten- lund, a country house, inhabited in summer by some member of the royal family. Prel ty drives hereabouts. Trolley to Deer Par^, royal preserve, filled with vast herds of stags, red deer, and fallow deer; and to Hurs- holni, where once stood a superb palace built by Chris' tian VL Not far away is the Island of Hveen, where the astronomer Tycho Brahe resided.

Sentimental travellers may wish to visit Elsinore ifjresund Hotel), 30 M I'rom Copenhagen, easily reached by rail in fifty minutes. The Castle and the Cathedral are the chief sights. Marienlyst, N. of the town, is a sea-bathing establishment. Here on a terrace among some trees is shown a mound, called the grave of Hamlet (see Murray's " Denmark ") . Hamlet's identification >rith this spot is founded on very sbghi

444 ELSINORE. — MALMO.

proof. Near Elsinore is Qurre, a famous residence of many Danish kings. RoesMlde was the most impor- tant town in Denmark, and remained a royal residence from the 10th to the 15th century. The Cathedral is the finest building of its kind in Denmark. In its N. aisle, Saxo Grammaticus, the chronicler, is buried.

From Elstnore it is not far to Fredensborg, where the Danish Royal Family has its reunions. Carriage drive thence (1 hour, 4 k.) to castle of Fredrichsborg, built by Christian II in 1620. Here is interesting historical museum (daily, 9.30-4 and 5-7, 1 k.). Five mm. to Hillerod {Hotel Leidersdorf), whence railway in 1 hr. back to Copenhagen.

From Copenhagen, those persons who do not wish to visit Norway can go by steamer four times daily in 1^ hrs. (16 M.) to Malmo {Krdmer''s Hotel; Hotm), on the Swedish coast, and thence by rly. in sixteen hrs. (one through express daily; fares, 52 k. 5 0.5 35 k. 65 o.) to the Swedish capital, jStockholmo Malmo (55,000 inhab.) was during the iianseatic period the chief commercial town on the SouuL. ^othwell, Mary Stuart's third husband, was inipriso''.ed in the castle here, 1573-78. Charles XV. died here. On the way to Stockholm you pass through 7mnd {Stadshuset ; Grand Hotel), where is the finest j,.tithedral in Scandinavia, founded in the 11th century. &e old University buildings here ; and near the Cathe- dral a Statue of Tegner, who composed many of his poems at Lund. His study is shown to visitors. Linkoping {Stora Hotellef) also has a noble ch., built 1150-1499. Notice Norrkoping, near Stockholm.

GOTHENBURG. — CHRISTIANIA. 445

NORWAY.

One may go from Copenhagen to Christian ia by sea (semi-weekly steamers touching at Gothenburg). The fares are low, but the boats are small and not always clean, and the sea is very rough; time, 36 hrs. The best way is to go by rail via Elsinore (ferry 40 mill.); time, 19 hours. i ■ Gothenburg {liaghmd's; Gota Kdllare; d^ Angle- \ terre) is a busy and pleasant commercial town of i 125,000 Inh. , on the Grotaelf . Excellent harbor, rarely closed by ice. The first impulse given to Gothenburg was during the continental blockade, when it formed ' the depot of English trade with Northern Europe. I The 'Exchange, the Town Kail, the Christina JcT/rka, the I Statue of Gwstavus Adolphus, the Museum (open daily), I the Slottsskog Park, with fine view, and the pretty ( garden of the Horticultural Society with hothouse I and exotic plants near the Wallgraf, comprise the i chief features of the town. Those who wish to go - from Gothenburg to Stockholm by the steamer can I do so (Tues., Fri., Sat.; fares, 25, 17, and 12 k.). Christiania (Grand; Victoria; Skandinavie; Bri' tannia; £oulevard),th.e capital of Norway, has 200,000 inhab. Steamships from London, Holland, Hamburg, etc.. land their passengers on the two quays near the Custom House (porterage from the steamer, 30-40 5. ; cabs to the hotel, 40, 60, 80 5.) Christiania is charm- ingly situated at the N. end of a fjord. It was founded by (and named for) Christian IV m 1624. The city has taken on new life and greater importance since the establishment of Norway as an independent kingdom. The University, National Picture Gallery, Observatory, and Royal Palace will occupy the attention for a day. E. of the

446 CHRISTIANIA AND SUBURBS.

market-place is the Ch. of Our Saviour, consecrated in 1697, restored in 1849. Near this edifice is the famous Steam Kitchen for the poor classes, where economical dinners are cooked for 2,000 people daily. The Theatres, the Freemasons' Lodge, the Akershus, the Fortress (many centuries old), are all within an easy walk of each other. The Akershus was besieged by Duke Eric of Sweden in 1310, and in 1716 by the famous Charles XII., who was signally defeated a little later by the Norwegian naval hero Tordenskjold. Good views fi'om the ram- parts. See the Mdsvolds Plads, the pretty square planted with trees, E. of which is the Farliament Edifice. This has a handsome fapade, flanked with granite lions (fee to enter). The summer session ends in June. The National Gallery (Sunday, Tuesday, Wednes- day, Thursday, Friday, 12-3, free; at other times, fee) was founded in 1837, and contains 400 pictures. The Trinity Ch., the Gamle Akers Kirke, — the oldest ch. in Christiania, founded in the 11th century, — the monument to Wergeland, the most famous of Nor- wegian poets, and tVs view from St. Johns Hill should not be forgotten, in the University, founded 1811, there are numerous collections of interest. It has 1,000 students, and a library of 250,000 vols. The Royal Palace is a large plain edifice, with handsome portico, on a hill in the Slots Park. The Festal Hall, the Throne Room, and Audience Chamber are beautifully adorned. In front is an equestrian Statue of Charles XJV. The Historical Museum contains a very in- teresting collection of coins, Viking ships, etc. The Norsk Folks Museum (daily except Wed. and Sat.) and the Art Industrial Museum (daily except Sat.) are the only other important sights.

Suburbs. — See Oscarshall (tickets and information free at the hotels), a castle built for King Oscar in 1847, with works of Swedish and Norwegian artists.

THRONDHJEM. 447

Noble view from the roof. Take trolley (50 6.) to Holmenkollen ; good restaurant and fine view. Also visit the Ekeberg.

There is direct steam communicatioii between Uhrii- tiania and Hidl, 3 days ; London, 4 days ; Havre, 4 days ; Hamburg, 36 hrs. ; Lub^ck, 48 hrs. ; ad twice a month to New York.

\ Brief Excursions in Norway.

I Cireneral Notes. — Oa all the fjords, and along the coast of Norway, there are excellent steamboat lines, and I travel in this way is comparatively cheap. The food is j usually good. Beer is the national drink. The rigid tem- I perance laws of Noi' way make it impossible to obtain spirits I on the steamboats or at moet of the principal railway restau- j rants. On the lakes there is usually a service 3 times a day. ' All Norway is covered with a network of excellent routes ; and there are few more pleasant ways of travelling than in ! the post-chaise among the mountains and beside the fjords, ' if the traveller be prudent enough to look out for his relays of horses. It is only on the most frequented routes that one can get carriages and horses to make a long journey. The driver generally takes care of himself and his horses for a fixed sum. Carriages can carry 8 or 4 persons, with bag- gage. The relay service is veiy well arranged, and there will be no occasion for complaint if you always send a tele- gram ahead. The charges for the horses, and carriages are by the mile, and are moderate. On the lakes the rowers also work for a fixed tariif. The amount of baggage is also determined by regulation.

Throndhjem {Britannia; cT Angleterre ; Grand ^ Scandinavie), the ancient Nidaros^ and the third city in Norway, has 34,000 inhab. Here Norwegian kings were crowned in the Middle Ages. Formerly the capi- tal of the kingdom; and its cathedral (open daily, free, 13-1), the finest in the North, was onc(»- a great resort

448 BERGEN. — HAMMERFEST.

for pilgrims. It is built of a bluisli chlorite slate, with which the marble columns form an admirable contrast. In the lltli and 12th centuries this ch. was the buriaL place of the kings ; and here Charles XIY., Oscar I.^ Charles XV., and Oscar II. were crowned. You may go from Christiania to Throndhjem bj rail, but the jour- ney is tedious, and we recommend the carriage route, or the steamboat voyage around the coast.

From Christiania to Bergen is a favorite excursion. On the Strandefjord is the noted Fagernces Hotel, a great resort for tourists. Bergen {Holdfs; Norge; S^nehy) is on a hilly peninsula and isthmus, with handsome high mts. in the background. The town (70,000 inhab.) was founded by King OJaf in 1070. on the site of an old royal residence. Many great battles have been fought in its neighborhood. See Bergenhus, Nygaards Park, and Fislimarket (on Wed. and Sat., 8-10 A.M.), The Museums have very good collections. Tlie best view of the town is from the Tldifjeid, N.E. of tlie harbor. The overland route from Bergen to M.olde is interesting for leisurely tourists.

Another good excursion \s>from Christiania to Kongs- berg, the Falls of Rjukan, the Hardangerfjord, and to Bergen. Still anotlier is from Cliristiania to Vadso^ along ^1\Q coast. Erom Yadso, those who have time may push on to Hammerfest {Jansen^s Hotel), the most northern city ia the world. It is built along the shores of a httle bay, protected by a peninsula from the fury of the N. winds. Pror a mountain in the neighborhood there is an extc^dive view over the glaciers of Sejiand and S6r5. Hence travellers can usually see the midnight sun in midsummer. Those who wish to visit the North Cape should remember that the sole attraction of the journe}'' consists in the bleakness and solemnity of the scenery. A steamer

STOCKHOLM 449

usually leases Hamburg on Monday morning, arriving at Vadso Wednesday afternoon and at Hammerfest on fedturday evening.

SWEDEN.

You may go 'by rail direct from Christian ia to Stock- holm, in 5 bours to Charlottenberg on the Swedish frontier, the*ice in about 14 hours to Stockholm ; through express trains without change in 17 hours (fares, 43 k. #5 o. , 33 k. 50 o. ; on slow trains a little less; sleeping cars 5 k. and 3 k. extra).

StoclLholTh {Grand Hotel; Rydherg; Kung Karl; Kung Karls Sn7iex; Continental; in the old town, Osiergotland) . Good restaurants m piincipal hotels. In the soui:hern fauborg, Peligan ; fine view over Stockholm an-i its environs. Good music at Blanch's Cafe, Bern's iSalonger, and the Stromparterre every evening. The principal bank, Riksbanken, at Jern Torgct. Population, 307,000. Sea com- munication with Stettin, Lubeck, Copenhagen, Am- sterdam, London, St. Petersburg, Bordeaux and Finland, by comfortable steamships and boats. Taxo- meter cabs, 1-2 persons, 50 o. per kilometre, each ad- ditional 3^ kilometre 10 o. ; trunk from rly. station 20 o ; fares higher after 11 p.m. Trip to suburbs at moderate rates. There is an excellent electric tram- car system (10 o.) The capital of Sweden is situated on tne banks of Lake Malar, where it empties into the Baltic Sea. and occupies two peninsulas and many islands, joined by handsome bridges. Old travelers say that Stockholm's situation is the most beauti- ful in Eu?-ope, aftsT that of C(mstantinople, The city is divided into six parts: the Staden, or city, formed by the islands of Stadsholmen, Rid- darholmen, and Helgeandsholmen, the narrowest ,and least agreeable part of Stockholm, but the most

450 PRINCIPAL SIGHTS IN STOCKHOLM.

animated, and the commercial centre; Norrmalm., tlie N. section, with the island of Blasieholmen; Ladugdrds- landet, a qfiarter built in the reign of Queen Christina; Kungsholmen (King's Island) ; Sodermalm, the S. fau- bourg; and Saltsjo-Oarne, composed of four islands. The oldest chroniclers give to the town the name which it bears to-day, — stock signifying straight, and holme, island. See local guide at bookstores for the romantic legends connected with the origin of Stockholm. Tine views from the Mosebacke ; from Kastellholmen ; from the Observatory ; from the Tower of Jacob's Ch. ; from Bystrbm^s Villa ; and from the TidoU.

Principal Sights. ^ — In the city Staden: ^% Royal Falace, — burned in 1697, and rebuilt in 1753, — one of the finest in Europe, on an eminence close to junction of lake and sea. Yast panorama from the terrace. View of the city and the innumerable bits of water, the majestic mountains, forests, and green plains. Cost of palace, 10,500,000 k. See the N. fa9ade and the Gus- iavus Adolphus Place. Here is the Lejonsbacken, a stair- case ornamented with huge bronze lions. The front portico is decorated with the Swedish arms,- — 3 bronze crowns, supported by a figure of Henown. The S., W., and E. fapades have beautiful works of art. The chapel, 128 ft. long by 50 ft. wide, has fine marble columns and richly decorated walls. The pulpit, sculptured and gilded, is supported by the 4 symbols of the Evan- gelists,— the angel, eagle, lion, and ox. The altar-piece represents Jesus at Gethsemane. The Hall of State, 143 ft. long, 51 ft. wide, is by Tessin. See silver throne given to Queen Christiua by Magnus Gabriel;- and statues of Gustavus II. and Charles XIY. by Bystrom. Here the king opens and closes the Diet in presence of the two chambers of the kingdom. The interior of the palace is visible all the year; small fee. See the cere-

STOCKHOLM. 451

monial h alls where great festivals are held: Audience Chamber ; fine ceiling by Fouquet; magnificent caude- hibra, 29 ft. high ; two porcelains : Red Room, where Gustavus III. slept (many marble statues here) : great gallery, 162 ft. long ; wonderful collection of sculp- tures ; mythological frescos : two smaller rooms, de- voted to pictures of battles : a second gallery and two rooms devoted to allegf)ries of Peace; Festival Hall, — sometimes called the White Sea, — with richly painted ceilings Victoria Hall, the Hall of the Columns, and the present king's and queen's apartments : Library very rich ; Museum of Armour and Costumes, a good collection. On the great square, S» of the palace, is an obelisk, erected in 1799, in memory of the fidelitv of the citizens of Stockholm during the war of 1788-1790 against the Russians. Near the port, statue of Gustavus III. Behind the obelisk is the Church of St. Nicholas, founded m 1260 or 1264, reconstructed 1726-43, restored 1892; a spire 308 ft. high; interior divided into 6 naves by rows of columns; altar-piece in ivory, silver, and ebony, representing the birth of the Saviour ; organ one of the largest in Swe- den ; immense stores of beautiful silver vessels and candelabra ; remarkable funereal monuments. Oppo- site the palace, beyond the Slottsbacken, is the House of the Qomriior of StocMiolm, built by Tessin, the most celebrated architect of Sweden, who formerly owned it. In the Stortorget, or great square, the famous Bath of Blood, as it is called in Swedish history, — the execu- tion of 96 distinguished citizens, opponents of Christian II., King of Denmark, wiio was seeking to extend his rule over Sweden, — toolv place. Hers is the Bourse, built in 1766; fine halls in the first story. .Near by, the German ch. (1642), with tower 222 ft. high, and the only chime of bells in Sweden; injured by fire in 1878, but restored. Here also is

4^^ STOCKHOLM.

the Knights Hoiise (1648), one of the finest palaces in Stockhohn ; noble staircase ; walls decorated with the arms of all the nobility of Sweden. Statue of Gustavu? Vasa before this house, erected on the 250th anniver- sary of the entry of that king into Stockholm. The courts of justice and other n'.iblic buildings are not fat away. At Sheppsbro, the port, are the telegraph office and the Custom House. The Scanditiavian Credit Bank is the finest modern building in the city. The Gothic Ch. of the Knights' Island {liiddarholms-KyrkaT^ is on the Riddarholmeu Island, to tlie W. of the Eques- trian Palace. It belonged to a famous Franciscan convent founded by King Magnus Ladulas, and was reconstructed in 1847. It is 192 ft. long, 60 ft. wide, and the tower is 290 ft. high. It is noticeable as a Tnausoleum of celebrated men (local guides give de. scription). The chief tomb is that of the Gustavus dynasty. N. of the choir is the Charles Chapel (built 1686-1743), Mdth maihle sarcophagus of Charles XII. Here also repose Charles X., Charles XV., Frederick, and many others. Ch. open Tues. and Thurs. (also Sat. in summer) 12-2 p.m. ; fee, 25 o. On the Riddarhojm are also tlie Roi/ul Cuurts of Justice, the Cham,ber of Deputies, \\\q Royal Archives, and the, Statue of Birger Jarl. Go by the great northern bridge — ■ 380 ft. long, in granite, built in 1797 — to Relgeands- holm-en, witli its pretty gardens, huge bazaar, and royal stables.

In the N. section {Norrmalm) is the Gustavus Adol- phtis Place and statue, pedestal ornamented with re- liefs of celebrated Swedish generals. On the W., Palace of the Croivn Prince, Opposite is Royai, Opera Houae^ erected on site of theatre where Gustavus III. • was killed by Ankarstrom. E. , near this square, is the

STOCKHOLM. 453

Jacofs Ch. (1590). The S. portal is very rich with scnlp- tures dating from 1644. The poet Kellgren is buried here. To the E. is the Charles XII. Place, with statue of Charles XII. To the N., the promenade called the King''s Garden, statue of Charles XIII. Pretty theatre and fountain near by. In the Berzelius Park, statue of Berzelius, the father of chemical science. E. of the Charles XII. Place is the National Museum (open daily except Mon., 11-3 ; Sun., 1-3). On the ground floor is the Historical Museum, founded in the ITth century, and one of the largest of its kind. The Hall of the Middle Ages is especially interesting. On the first floor are collections of furniture and house decora- tions, ceramics, and sculpture, the last of unusual merit. On the upper floor is the picture gallery, in which the Italian, German, Flemish, Spanish, French, Swedish, Norwegian, and Danish schools of painting are well repre- sented. From the National Museum, an iron bridge leads to the Sheppsholm, an island on which are the Karl- Johanskyrka, the Naval Academy, and the Naval Arsenal. The Academy of Fine Arts (1671) is in the Red Shop Square. The CRara-Kyrka (1285 ; burned 1751 ; rebuilt 1753 ; restored 1893) is very interesting. At Kungsholmen are many hospitals and some of the chief manufactories. Also the Mint, and a ch. with a fine altar-piece. Not far away is the principal military school. There are many other interesting things in the city quarter (see local guides). The Ch. of St. John should be seen. In the cemetery of the latter. Yon Dobeln, one of the heroes of the last war against the Russians, is buried. The two principal streets of Stockholm are the Regents' and

454 UPSALA.

Queen Street, — in Swedish, Regeringsgatan and Broti- ninggatan. The Academy of Science, the Natural History Museum, tlie Technological Institute, the Mirb- ing School, and the Observatory are all in this quarter.

In the Ostermalm quarter are the Artillery Square and a oh. founded in 1658, remarkable for its acoustics. Here also is the Royal Library of 200,000 vols., founded under Charles IX (open free every week- day, 10-3). In the Sodermalm, or S. faubourg, is the Karl Johans Place, with equestrian statue to memory of that king. Here also, in the Bormgatan, 48, is the house which Swedenborg inhabited. The Katharina- Kyrka is on the spot where the victims of the Battle of Blood were buried. Fine view from top of Soder- malm (elevator). The environs of Stockholm are noted lor their beauty, especially during the wonder- fully clear nights of June and July. The Carlherg ^nd Drottningholm should be visited, and especially the Djurgard, a beautiful park on an island 2 M. long. At the W. end of thi^ island is the Northern Museum, a large collection of Scandinavian curios- ities. Here nearly every evening in summer popular dances in national costume are given accompanied by national music. No one should fail to see them.

Upsala {Stads-Hotellet ; Svea; gooa restaur- ants), the most famous university town in Sweden (20,000 inhab.), and the residence of the archbishop and other dignitaries. It lies on both banks of the Fyrisa, which is crossed by 5 bridges. It was formerly called Ostra-Aros, and when the Swedish kings resided at Gamla Upsala, it was their port. It is the historical and intellectual centre of Sweden, and its mythical associations are of the greatest interest. Visit the Gothic Cathedral (founded 1260), situated on a pictu- resque height. Tlie chief curiosities are the Burial Chapel of Gustavus Vasa (at the back of the choir) , and the tomb of Linnceiis, the great botanist.

ABO. — HELSINGFOES. 455

N. of this cathedral is St. Eric's Spring, said to have burst forth on the spot where the saint was martyred. The Ch. of the Trinity has many handsome monuments. The University was founded in 1477. Many of its edifices are very striking in architecture. The library building is especially fine. The Library contains 200,000 vols., and 7,000 MSS. Here is the famous transla- tion of the four Gospels by Bishop Ulphilas, dating from the second half of the 4th century. The House of Linnceus is still shown in Upsala. In the cemetery see monument to Geijer, the poet. There are 1,500 stu- dents at the University. Numerous -charming excur- sions in tlie neighborhood. A pretty excursion is from Upsala to Qefle by rail in %\ hrs, (6 k. 85 o., 4 k. 60 5.). On the way you may see tlie Castle, which was fortified by Gustavus Vasa, and where Eric XIV. was imprisoned during his iusanity.

We will not attempt to give other excursions in Sweden, but will recounncnd the tourist next to pro- ceed from Stockholm to St. Petersburg.

RUSSIA.

Steamers sail 3 times a week in summer from Stock- holm to St. Petersburg in 3-4 days, stopping at Abo, the old capital of Pinland, taken from the Swedes ia 1809 by the Russians ; Relsingfors, one of the strong- est of naturally fortified harbors ; and Wyborg, taken from the Swedes by Peter the Great in 1710. The beauty of the hundreds of islands through which the steamer threads its way renders the journey a constant pleasure. The Ahland Islands are about 300 in number. Shortly after the steamer enters the Gulf of Finland, the dome of St. Isaac's Ch. in St. Petersburg ts dis- tinctly visible On the Way up, the steamer passes

456 ST. PETERSBURG.

Cronstadt, the Russian Empire's chief naval station. It is defended by great batteries hewn out of the sohd rock, and has extensive docks. The fortifications were begun in 1703 by Peter the Great, and have beeir greatly strengtliened since. The approaching seawara is secured by the erection of batteries and by the sink- ing of ships. An excursion can be made in one day from St. Petersburg to Cronstadt, Oranienbaum, Peter- hof, Strelna, and the Monastery of St. Sergius. Oranien- baum is a palace, built in 1724, confiscated to the crown from Mentchikoff's estate. It commands a magnificent view. The Peterhof Palace, begun in 1720 by Leblond, under the direction of Peter the Great, contains innumer- able articles of vertu, tapestries, marbles, porcelains, malachites, portraits, especially a collection of pictures of feminine beauties, 368 in number, collected from 50 Russian provinces. In front of the palace is a fountain called the Samson. There are two small palaces near here, of which Peter the Great was very fond, and in that of Mont Plaisir he died. The Hermitage, Alex- andra, where the Emperor lives while at Peterliof, and Strelna, the palace of the Grand Duke Coustantine, are in this neighborhood.

St. Petersburg {.Hotel d' Angleterre ; De JRussie ; DemoutUs ; Be France ; cf Europe) is the capital of the Russian Empire, and as the headquarters of the official world and the centre of Russian society must always possess a certain interest for the traveler (1,500,000 inhab.). The common supposition that it is not wise to visit Russia in midsummer is founded upon a mistake. The Russian summer climate is extremely soft and beau- tiful, and the iieat is never so intense as in some parts of North America. Of course, the social world is not so gay as in winter, but the tourist who expects to spend but 2 or 3 days in St. Petersburg will hardly care about this.

ST. PETERSBURG. 457

The city was founded by Peter the Great, about 1703, and, like Madrid, it might be called a capital with malice aforethought ; for the energetic mouarch set it down among the marshes through which the river Neva wan- ders towards the sea. On the islands in the channels of the divided Neva the greater part of the city is built. The Admiralty Quarter, so called, containing the public buildings, is on the mainland, on the S. bank of the Neva. St. Petersburg is in many respects a magnificent city, although the contrasts between squalor and great splendor are sometimes too sharp to permit of an agree- able impression. When the town was building, under Peter the Great, 40,000 or 50,000 peasants were em- ployed for years in filling up the marshes. It was the Empress Catherine who built the splendid granite quay along the Neva's 1. bank. The river has overflowed many times, and the inundations in the 18th century and in the early part of the 19th were very disastrous. The or- dinary tourist will find that the difl&culties concerning passports, police supervision, etc., have been greatly exaggerated, and if he is not a Nihilist he will not be much troubled. A passport is, however, exacted on en- tering Russia, and has to be delivered up to the hotel proprietor for registration, and he hands it to you on leaving the hotel. The city is divided into 13 quarters, the Admiralty being the principal one. From the Ad- miralty three great streets branch off. They are called the Vosnessensky J the Gorokhooaia, ending at the Champs de Mars ; and the fauious Nevsky Prospect, where are the most elegant of the shops and many of the chs. and public buildings.

The Cathedral of our Lady of Kazan, in the Nevsky Prospect, begun under Alexander I., and consecrated in 1811, is the metropolitan church of St. Petersburg. It is a copy of St. Peter's at Rome, and takes its name

458 ST. PETERSBUEG.

from an iinaj^e of the Virgin brought from Kazan to Mos- cow in 1579. See the beautiful Corinthian colonnade, with columns of Finland granite. Interior superb; shrine of chased silver, the gift of Cossacks who served; in wars of 1813-14 ; images before which lamps are al-, waj's kept burning ; flags, arras, and standards, taken 'm.\ battle ; bronze statues of Kutusoff and Barclay de Toll?' in front of the ch. No organ or instrument is used iu tiie service, but great pains are taken to secure gooci voices. Remark the deep bass intonation. T/ie For' ; tress and Cathedral of St. Peter and St. Faul contains, i in its vaults the tombs of all the sovereigns of Russia^ since the foundation of St. Petersburg, except Peter II. (buried at Moscow). The fortress part of this edifice is used as a prison, and also contains the imperial Mint. The gilded spire is visible from a great distance. Hun- dreds of flags are suspended along the walls.

The Cathedral of St. Isaac, the largest in St. Peters- burg, is on the site of a ch. built in 1710 by Peter the Great. Its foundations rest upon thousands of piles. The interior is chiefly striking from its splendid propor- tions. Notice the lavish use of polished granite, white marble, malachite, porphyry, and lapis lazuli. Fine view of city from dome. The Winter Palace (admission by tickets procured from chief of palace police; fee), built in 1754, in Catherine's reign, stands on the r. bank of the Neva. This is the imperial city residence, and this building was the scene of the Nihilist conspiracies, which finally resulted in the death of Alexander II. in 1881. The exterior is not impressive, but the interior is richly ornamented with paintings, bronzes, marbles, and pre- cious stones. Grand festival here on New Year's Day by the Emperor to all his subjects. See the Ambassa- dor's Staircase on the Neva ; also the magnificent flight of white marble steps, leading to the state apartments.

ST. PETERSBURG. 459

riie Throne Room is the finest in Europe. The White Room, St. George s Hall, the Field Marshal's Gallert/y the Alexander Hall, the Halls of Battles (in which are paintings by Horace Vernet), the Golden Chamber, the Empress's Winter Garden, and the Romanoff Gallery- are the principal apartments. Near the entrance of the latter gallery is the green curtain, behind which is a tablet on which are the rules drawn up by the Empress Catherine, to be enforced at her receptions at the Her- mitage. In the jewel room, see the Imperial crown and sceptre (containing a diamond weighing 194 carats) . See also room in which Emperor. Nicholas died. The Her' milage (open daily except Eri. and holidays, 11-4), close to Winter Palace, was founded by Catherine in 1765, and rebuilt in 1840-50. The famous museum contains- 1,700 paintings of all schools, among them being some by Murillo, Velasquez, Rubens, Yan Dyke, Rembrandt,, and Ruysdael. There are also vast collections of en- graved stones, and designs by masters.

The Taurida Palace, the Anitchkoff Palace, the Michael and the Marble Palaces are not impressive buildings. The Russian Museum of Alexander IIL (open daily, ex. Mon., 10-4) contains goed collection of modern art. The Admiralty is a vast edifice with fa9ade -^ M. long. Near it are the great dockyards, the headquarters of the army, and the War Office. The Wooden Cottage of Peter the Great, containing many- relics of the famous monarch, is near the citadel.

The Imperial Library, containing 400,000 vols., is near the Kazan Ch. Other noteworthy libraries are those of the Academy of Science, the Hermitage, and the Alexander NevsJcy Monastery. This monastery is one of the most celebrated in Russia. It was founded by the great Peter in honor of Alexander the Great, who conquered the Swedes and the Livonians. The museum of the Academy of Science occupies a portion

460 MOSCOW

of the superb biulding near the Admiralty. The Asiatic Museum is rich in. Eastern antiquities. The Romanoff Museum^ tiiat attached to the Mining School, that of Natural History, and the Egyptian Museum should be seen. The theatres, kept up at the government expense, are all of large size. The Marien(opera, and ballet) , Alexander {Jlnssmn. drama and comedy), and Jfichael (French) are the best. The monuments are nearly all good. Those most worthy of attention are the Equestrian Statue of Peter the Great, with a prancing horse balanced on its hind legs, by Falconet; and the column of Alexander, a single shaft of red granite 80 ft. high, weighing 400 tons, stands near the Winter Palace. The Summer Ijrardens, 1 M. long and ^ 'mile wide, beautifully ornamented, contain the palace in which Peter the Great occasionally lived. A day excursion should be made to Tsarshoye Selo, where the emperor resides in the spring and autumn.

It is 1011 M. from St. Petersburg to Moscow. The rly. carriages are much like those of America in model. The stations are all comfortable, refreshment saloons excellent and fares reasonable. First-class express to Moscow, 24 roubles; second, 17 roubles. The principal town on the way is Tver, at the confluence of the Yvertsa and the Volga. Cathedral, Trinity Church. Here steamer can be taken to Nijni' Novgorod, and thence to Astrahan.

Moscow {National, Slavianshi Bazaar, Chev' rier, d'Angleterre)^ or Holy Moscow, as the Russians call it, the ancient capital of Russia, formerly the residence of the Emperors, is situated on the Moskowa, in a pleasant country. Up to the great fire in 1812, it was the most irregularly built town in Europe, and to-day it remains original and pic- turesque in a striking degree. A good view may be had from Sparrow Hill (by carriage, about 7 r.) In the centre of the city is the Kremlin, a triangle 2 M.

MOSCOW. 461

in circuit, filled with palaces, cliurclies, arsenals, and museums. Here tlie Tartar architecture predominates. An excellent preparation for visiting the Kremlin is the perusal of Theophiie Gaiitier's lively and sparkling book on a " Winter in Russia." The Redeemer s Gate and the Gate of St. Nicholas slvq objects of great veneration among Russians. Visitors must uncover their heads on pass- ing through the Redeemer's Gate. The present Krem- lin Palace is modern, the old Kremlin having been de- stroyed in 1812. Most of the ancient palaces were of wood. To Nicholas I. the erection of the present one is due. The Hall of St. George, the Hall of St. Alex- ander Neoshj, and Sts. Andrew and Catherine, and the Banqueting Hall, as well as the Tereni, whicii contains a collection of the portraits of the czars, and from the terrace of which Napoleon I. looked down upon Mos- cow when he came there as conqueror, are among the Kremlin's chief marvels. In the little Ch.of the Re- deemer are some beautiful decorations. On the Cathedral Place is the Cathedral of the Assumption, founded in 1325, and rebuilt in 1473. Many sacred treasures here. In this ch. the Emperors of Russia are crowned. The Cathedral of the Archangel Michael contains many tombs of sovereigns. The Ch. of the Annunciation is where the czars are baptized ; is rich with relics. The jewels m all Russian chs. are worth studying. House of the Synod, Treasury (open free week days ex. Sat., Derm it at the chamberlain's office), and Arsenal will furnish plenty of amusement for a day. The To?^er of loan Veliki, or John the Great, built in 1600, and 320 ft. high, contains 34 bells, the largest of which weighs 64 tons. When all these bells are rung together at Easter the effect is wonderful. At the foot of this tower is the vast Tsar Kolokol, or Monarch of iicilh It once hung in a tower (burned in 1737) ; weighs 444,000 lbs. ; and is 20 ft. high and 60 ft. round. The value of

462 NIJNI-NOVGOROD. — ODESSA.

the metal in the bell is nearly ^3,000,000. Outside the Kremlin is the Chinese town, so called, founded by Helena. Here are the Cathedral of St. Basil, built in 1554 by Ivan IV., the Romanoff Palace, the Iberian Gate and Chapel, the University (900 students), the great Riding School, the Theatres, and the largest Bazaar in llussia, except that of Nijni-lNfovgorod. The pigeon being looked upon as sacred by the Russians, thousands of these birds are to be seen in the streets of Moscow. S. of Moscow is a beautiful villa owned by the Imperial family. The Tretyahoff Gallery of modern Russian art (open daily ex. Mon. , 10-4, free) is worth a visit.

It is 271f M. from Moscow to Nijni-Novgorod. Tourists pressed for time can take night tram there, spend the day at Nijni, and return the next night.

Nijni-Novgorod" {Be Russie, Egoroff's), a' city of 76,000 inhab., is celebrated for its great fair, held an- nually in July and Aug., and attended by 200,000 peo- ple. Here the inhabitants of the barbaric East come into close contact with the Western merchants and vis- itors. The town is at the confluence of the Oka and the Volga. The Kremlin is on a bank <^verhanging the Volga. The transactions at the fair amount annually

to ^80,000,000.

From Moscow to Odessa (40i hrs. ; fare, 32 r. 1st class, 20 r. 2(1 class) the route passes through Kieff.

Odessa {De Londrss, De St. Petershourg) was founded in Catherine II. 's reign. It is an important commercial port, with 250,000 inhab. ; but there is little of interest to the traveller except the Cathedral^ a small museum, a bronze statue of Richelieu, and the University. Steamers (poor) leave Odessa twice a week for the Crimea and Sebastopol, and the field ol the Crimean war may easily be visited. There is also steam communication with Constantinople.

TABLft OF CLIMATIC HEALTH B"P; ?ORTS, MIN- ERAL WATERS, SEA BATHS, AVD HYDRO* PATHIC ESTABLISHMENTS.

Times and railway fares are calculat'i I from Paris.

Aix-la-ChapeUe (10 hrs from Paris ; fare, 48 fr.).— Sulphurous alkaline waters, 107° to )20° T. For skin dis- eases, rheumatism, chrouic diseases of the nervous centres, neuralgias, paralysis, and syphilitic maladies.

Aix-les-Bains (14^ hrs.; 71 fr. 60 c.). — Sulphurous hot springs, 112° to 114° E. Have a world-wide reputa- tion in cases of rheumatism and gout; also chionic catarrh of the neck of the womb, aineuorrhoea, metritis, syphilis, bronchitis, laryngeal and nasal catarrh, pharyuji.itis, wounds by fire-arms. April to Nov., and all the year.

Am^lie-les-Bains (241 hrs.; 120i fr.). — Sulpburous sodaic watei's, 71° to 172° E., and winter statio'j. Herpetic diathesis, and catarrhal aifectious. All the year.

Arcaclion (10 hrs.; 78 fr. 70 c), — Vf'iuter station, and sea baths. For invalids requiring a aedalive air ; for delicate, lymphatic, and anseraic persons ; nervous complaints ;. <5hest and lung affections ; scrofula ; gout. Winter season, A'ora No\\ till June ; summer, from May iVX Oct.

Aulus (24^ hrs.; 119 fr.). -— Alkaline waters, 48° t-. Purgative, laxative, and diuretic action;, according to dose, in diseases of the liver, in arthritic a'Tections, and in syphilis.

Baden (27 hrs. ; 152|- fr.). — Sulphurous waters, 82° to })5° F. For rheumatism, gout, anaemia, and scrofula (espe- i'iallv of a chronic character). May to Oct., and all the year.

Baden-Baden (16 hrs. , 63 fr.). — Alkaline chloride ^f sodium waters. 110° to 130° F. Uric acid diathesis, gout, and kindred comi^laiuts ; ailments dependent on malaria, ai^d certain sk^u diseases ; chronic rheumatism ; wounds, frac- tures of the bonss, sci'ofula, syphilis, chronic catarrh, certain ladaev affections, anaemia. May to Oct. and aU the year.

464 CLIMATIC HEALTH RESORTS,

Bagn^res-de-Bigorre (22 hrs. ; 105 fr.). — Saline. sulphurous, ierrugiiious, and arsenical waters, 72" to 120° F. For tuberculosis, affections of the respii-atory organs, intes- tines, and urinary system, ansemia, and female disorders. J| [ Juue io Sept., baths; Nov. to May, winter station. ^i

Bagnoles (19 hrs. ; 67 fr. 65 c). — Saline, sulphurous, lithic, silicate, and arsenical waters, 66° F. For diseases of the digestive organs, skin, rheumatism, and scrofula, chlor- osis, congestion of the abdominal viscera, phlebitis, &c.

Bareges (2U hrs. ; 113 fr.). — Alkali-saline-sulphurous waters, 45° to 105° F. For scrofula, diseases of the bones. herpes and syphilis. June 15 to Sept. 15.

Biarritz" (19^ hi-s. ; 96 fr. 80 c). — Sea-bathing and winter station. For chlorosis, anseniia, chest and lung com- plaints, laryngitis, pharyngitis. Aug. to May.

Bourbon-rArchambault (6f hrs. ; 40 fr. 75 c). — Bromo-iodurated saline waters, 125° F. ; and bicai'bon^te ferruginous magnesian waters, 120° to 160° F., highly gase- ous. For scrofula, rheumatism, paralysis, nervous affections.

Bourboule (La) (13i hrs. ; 60 fr.). — Effervescent saline arsenical waters (28 milligr. arseniate of soda per litre), 140° F. For ansemia, lymphatism, general debility, affections of the skin and respiratory organs, rheumatisnij and intermittent fevers. May 25 to Sept. 30.

Cannes (20| hrs.; 130 fr.). — Winter station of fii-st importance; climate tonic and stimulating near the sea; sedative towards Le Cannet. Sea baths in spring ; season, Oct. to May. For nervous debility, anaemia, phthisis, laryn- gitis, pharyngitis, rheumatism, paralysis, gout, and diabetes.

Carlsbrunn. — Highly elfervescing, ferruginous manga- nese waters, 45° F. ; climatic station. For debility of the male and female sexual organs, sterility, impotence, affections of the brain due to overwork. June to Sept.

Castellamare di Stabia (50| hrs.; 248 fr.). — Sea baths ; cold chloride of sodium, bitter and sulphurous chaly= beate waters. For obstructions of the liver and spleen, affections of the mesenteric glands, biliary and '-^sical calc^a.

MINERAL WATERS, SEA BATHS, ETC. 465

jaundice, dropsy, hemorrhoids, chronic ophthalmia, herpes, catarrh of the digestive organs, hypochondriasis, urinary cal- culi, vesical catarrh, scrofula, lymphatism, congestion of the uterus, leucorrhoea, &c. Sea and mineral bathing. May to Oct. ; winter season, Oct. to April.

Cauterets (211 hrs. ; 111 fr. 90 c). — Sulphate of soda springs, 55° to 145° F. For catarrh of the respiratory organs, skin diseases, uterine affections, scrofula.

Contrexeville ^10 hrs. ; 51? fr.). — •Effervescent alka- line, slightly feri'uginous waters, 55° F. Especially for gravel, biliary and vesical calculi, aud catarrh, diabetes, gout, and gouty rheumatism, disorders of the urinary svstem, affec- tions of the uterus, hepatic complaints. May 20 to Sept.

Dax (15 hrs. ; 90 fr. 80 c). — Hyperthennal mixed sul- phurous waters, 120° to 145° F. For articular, musculai', or rheumatic affections, gout, neuralgia, and neuroses.

Dieppe (*4 hrs.; 20 fr. 65 c). — -Much-frequented sea- bathing and summer resort.

Divonns-les-Bains (15| hrs.; 81 fr.). — Cold water springs; water exceptionally pure, 44° F. For chronic rheu- matic arthritis, lumbago, pleuro-dynia, gout, sciatica, neu- ralgia, hypochondria, neuroses, gastralgia, bronchial catarrh, dyspepsia, liver and bladder complaints, hemorrhoids, paraly- sis, chronic affections of the spinal cord, scrofula, and female "^''sorders.

Eaux-Boniies (18 hrs. : 105 fr.). — Sulphurous saline acd :-lkaliiie waters, 90*^ F. For angina pectoris, and laryn- gitis, bronchitis, and chronic catarrh, asthma, chronic pleu- ritis, auEemia, lymphatism, and scrofula. June to Sept.

Ems (18i hrs. ; 71 fr. 15 c). — Saline alkaline and sa^ line earthy, 65° to 110° F. These waters act on the lungs and chest, and on nervous diseases. May to Oct.

Enghien (20 min. ; 1 fr. 35 c). — Cold sulphurous and lime waters. For scrofula, affections of respiratory organs, herpes, and rheumatism.

Etretat (5 hrs. 50 min. ; 28 fr.). — A now much-fre- quiMited resort for sea-bathina* in summer.

, 468 CLIMATIC HEALTH RESORTS,

£3vian-les-Bains (13 livs.; 82 fr. 80 c.). — Alkalme

waters, and climatic air station. For affections of the uii. nary and digestive organs, the liver and biliary apparatus.

Geneva (14 hrs.^ 77 fr.). — Milk cure. Bathers from Aix-les-Bains come here to rest after their cure.

Gorbersdorf (89 hrs. ; 167i Ir.). ~ Noted for its moun- tain-air cure, in atfections of the respiratory organs. Ante- mia and chlorosis are also treated.

Grasse. — Dry and sedative climate; winter station; Ovt. to June. Chest and lung complaints, pharyngitis, nervous affections, anaemia, i-hlorosi:.

Hombwrg-les-Bains (18 hrs. 40 min. ; 86 fr. 69 c). - — Saline, ferruginous, and ai^^'^ulous waters. For dyspepsia, scrolula, and auEcmia.

Hydres (20 hrs.; 117 u-.). — Winter season, Nov. tt June ; sea-bathing, May to Oct. For diseases of the laryns chest, and lungs, sci'ofula, diabetes, gout, and rheumatism.

Interlaken (18 hrs. ; 78 fr. 65 c). — Climatic statioa in summer, visited for its beautiful environs. Whey cure.

Ischia (501- hrs. ; 288? fr.). — Alkali -saline waters, 145"^ F. For uterine affections, rheumatism, diseases of the bones, sores, gout, and paralysis. Spring and autumn.

Ischl (23f hrs.; 168 fr. 90 c). — A climatic summer station ; May to Oct. Saline and cold sulphurous waters ; whey cure ; saline, steam, hot and cold brine, and sulphurous baths ; mud, malt, pine-cone, sap, and wave baths ; iuhala- tion. Recommended for nervous affections.

Karlsbad (82 hrs.; 137 fi'.). — Polymetallic waters, 125° to 170° F. For constipation, liver and bilious com- plaints, plethora, obesity, gout, gravel, &c.

Kissingen (21 hrs. 40 niiu. ; 106 fr.). — Cold saline •waters, strongly mineralized ; tonic and excitant. Especially suited to abdominal and hemorrhoidal congestions.

Kreuznach (131 hrs. ; 72 fr.). — Bromo-iodurated sa- line waters. F orscrofulou* affections, diseases of the ears» respiratory organs, bones, ttnd joints, all femafe and skin disease? ad in chronic affections generally. May to Oct.

MINERAL WATERS, SEA BATHS, ETC. 467

Lausanne (15^ hrs. ; 64 fr. 20 c). — Climatic station ixL suunu r and aiUuiiiu ; bracing air and graj)e cure.

Loeche-les-Bains (30 hrs. ; ]00 fr.). — ^ Various springs ; liot saline earthy waters, 70° to 120° F. For struma, herpes, and skin diseases, sci'ofuia, rheumatism, chronic bronchitis, invetei-ale syphilis, &c. May 15 to Sept. 30.

Luchon {I'dk hi's. ': imi fr.). — Upwai-ds of fifty differ, ent spiings, mirieraJized liv hydro-sujphui'ic acid; also ferru- giiiousmd alkaline. For rheumatism, scrofula, bionchial and skin diseases, and chronic sores. June to Sept.

Luxeuil (111 hrs. ; 60 fr.). — Saline, ferruginous, and magucsian waters ; eleven springs, 70° to 125° F. They are lirst excitant, then sedative ; and good in cases of neural- gia, rheumatism, paralysis, gastralgia, &c.

Madeira (steamers from Southampton, Bordeaux, or Lis- bon ; journey 5 to 6 days; 500 fr.). — Highly recommended for pulmonary complaints ; climate delightful ; no winter.

Mentone (24^ hrs.; 139 fr.). —Winter station of first importance, and sea baths. For all forms of chest diseases and rheumatism, cachetic complaints, and debility. Winter season, November to June; sea-bathing. May to Oct.

Monaco (24^ hrs.; 138 fr.). — MoJe Carlo is the favorite winter I'esort of pleasure-seekers. One of the most sheltered stations on the Riviera. Sea baths ; May to Oct.

Mont-Dore(ll hrs.; 64i fr.). — Bicarbonate, arsen- ical, and effervescent ferruginous waters, 107° to 115° F. For all forms of chest diseases and of the respiratory tract ; ophthalmia, rheumatic and nervous affections, disorder.s of the uterus and skin. June 1 to Oct. 1.

Naples (48 hrs. ; 223 fr. 85 c). — The great variety of mineral waters and their therapeutic properties have rendered this delightful city and its environs the.most frequented bath- ing station in Italy. Sea baths.

Nice (22 hrs.;' 134 fr. 20 c.).— Winter station of Tirst importance. For chronic diseases of the chest, lungs, and respiratory organs ; affections of the larynx,, liver compinints. disorders of the spinal cord, diabetes, gout, • rherni atism.

468 CLIMATIC HEALTH RESORTS

paral^vsis, debility. Winter season, Nov. to June ; sea-bathing season, May to Oct. ; principal season, Jan. to March.

Ostend (14 hrs. ; 38 fr. 40 c.) — Sea baths. Sandy- beach and bi-acing climate. Season, June 1 to Oct. 1.

Palermo (66i hrs.; 239i fr.). —Winter station ; sea. baths. Season, Nov. to April ; bathing season. May to O-^t. ^

Pau {17i hrs.; 101 fr.). — Winter resort of first im- portance. For chest complaints, consumption (inflammatory action and blood-spitting), asthma, bronchitis, rheumatisni.j neuralgia, and nervous disorders. Nov. 15 to May 31.

Pierrefonds (2^ hrs. : 12 fr.). — One cold sulphate of lime spring ; one fei-ruginous and arsenical. Pulmonary catarra.

Plombi^res (11 hrs.; 45 fr.). — The springs range from 30° to 175° F. For rheumatism, paralysis, herpes., nervous debility, hysteria.

Potigues (5 hrs.; 29 fr. 70 c). — Mixed bicarbonate ferruginous gaseous waters. Affections of the digestive organs.

Preste (La) (23! hrs.; 145 f.). — Very efficacious wa- ters in diseases of the urinary organs, gravel. 90° to 105' F.

Piillna, — No ti-eatment nt Pilllna itself; the waters ayq exported, and considered excellent as preservatives and reme- dies against diseases of the digestive organs, constipation, congestions, liver and bladder complaints, nervous disorders, obesity, disenscs of the eye, headache, and gastritis.

Pyrmont (18 hrs.; 84 fr. 30c.). — Chalybeate springs of importance anl much renown; effervescent saline waters, brine baths, inhalations. For female complaints, especially ansemia, chlorosis, scrofula, stomachic and intestinal catarrhs, obesity, affections of spleen and liver. Season, May 15 to Oct. 1.

Recoaro (34f hrs.; 189| fr.). — Alkaline, acidulated ferruginous waters, 45° F. For chronic and nervous debil- ity, female diseases, obesity, auccmia, chlorosis, gravel and vesical calculus, congestion of the liver, biliary calculi, hem- orrhoidal complaints, intestinal catarrhs. Mav to Sept.

Rome (491 h.-s. ; 201 fr. 90 c.). — Winter station of first importance. Fm debility and scrofula in children, chronic catarrh of -V, bronchi, amphysema. The climate is

I

MINERAL WATERS, SEA BATHS, ETC. 469

sedative to the nei'vos and respiratory ors^ans ; tut patients sbonld first consult their doctor. Oct. to May.

Rorschach. — Climatic; station in summer; haths in thfi lake ; Turkish baths ; very pure and equable atmosphere.

Royat (9^ hrs. ; Blf fr.). — Four springs : mixed alka- line, gaseous, ferruginous, and slightly arsenical and lithic waters, 45° to 95° F. For lymphatic affections, anaemia, chlorosis, catarrhal affections, arthritic gout, and skin dis- eases dependent on a gouty diathesis.

St. Galniier. — Alkaline table waters, used in France.

St. Moritz (34 hrs. ; 130 fr. 60 c). — Climatic raoun- tain-air station. Two ferruginous spi-ings, very cold and very effervescino;. For phthisis.

St. Raphael (19^ hrs.; 130 fr. 20 c.). — Winter sta- tion and sea baths ; summer. May 1 to Nov. 1 ; winter, Nov. 1 to June 1. For atonic debility, rachitis, scrofula, lymphatic affections, chest and lung complaints, diabetes^ rheumatism, gout, emphysema, aneema, and chlorosis.

San Remo. — Winter station of first importance ; la- ttjut scrofula, chronic bronchial, stomachic, and intestinal Catarrh, emphysema, pharyngitis, laryngitis, pleuritic exu- dations, incipient phthisis, rheumatism, Bright's disease, diabetes, and general debility. Nov. to May.

Saxon (18 hi's. ; 73 fr. 55 c). — Brorao-iodurated sa. line waters, 60° F. For syphilis, scrofula, and gout.

Scheveningen (I5i hrs.; 67 fr. 70 c). — Very well frequented summer resort; sea-bathing; beach of fine sands.

Scliinznach (17 hrs.; 73 fr.). — Sulphurous waters, rich in sulphuretted hydrogen and carbonic acid, ^sio in chloride of sodium and salts of lime, 95° F. For chronic skiu diseases, eczema, acne, psoriasis, &c., scrofula, chronic catarrh, bronchitis, emphysema, asthma, r^ ^umatism, gout, syphilis, mercurialism ; May to Oct.

Schlangenbad (19 hrs. 10 rain.; 81f fr.). — Nine springs, 75° to 90° F. For menstrual difficulties in delicate women; general debility in children, women, and ged per- son's; Efout. pnrtinl pMrnlv<is. Mny 1 to Oct. 1

Schvi^-albach /20 iirs.j f6 tV. 5 c). — Cii;i^-, .oeate wa-

470 CLIMATIC HEALTH RESORTS,

ters. For all female complaints; anscmia, chlorosis, nervous aifectioiib, debility of mnscles and mucous membranes, espe- cially catarrlial aflTectioiis of the genital organs. May to Oct.

Spa (8i hrs. ; 44| fr.). — Highly effervescent ferrugi- nous and acidulous waters. For ansemia, chlorosis, female complaints, hysteria, gastralgia, sterility, difFicult menstrua- tion, liver complaints, urinary disorders, cachexia, mucous catarrh of the uterus, &c. May to Oct.

Bpezzia (28 hrs.; 130 fr. 40 c). — Winter air-cure and summer sea-bathing resort.

Teplits-Sclionau (32 hrs. ; 145| fr.). — Alkali-saline waters, 95° to 125° F. For rheumatism, gout, neuralgia, paralysis, incipient spinal complaints, scrofulous tumors and sores, fractures, anchylosis, &c. Mav to Nov.

Trotiville (6 hrs.; 28 fr. 65 'c). —Fashionable and much -frequented summer station; sea baths, sandy beach.

Ullage (14| hrs. ;- 79 fr.). — Saline sulphurous waters, Sl^ F. For scrofula, chronic affections of the skin, rheuma- tism, nervous affections, diseases of the eyelids, granular .pharyngitis, &c. Milk and whey cure. May 15 to Oct. 15.

"Valencia. — Spanish winter resort ; sea baths, sandy beach.

Vals (17-2 brs. ; 87 fr.). — Cold alkaline springs, light, medium, and strong ; principally used as table waters. For gravel, liver complaints, and disorders of the spleen.

Venice (30 hrs. ; 154 fr.). • — Sea baths and winter sta- tion ; sedative climate, somewhat like that of Pau.

Vevey (161 hrs. ; 86i fr.). — Air-cure station, much frequented on account of the mildness of its temperature.

Vichy (8^ hrs. ; 45 fr.). — Bicarbonate of soda alkaline springs, 35° to 105° F. For dyspepsia, hepatic disorders, uric acid diathesis, catarrh of the urinary organs, diabetes.

Voslau (27t hrs. ; 156 fr. 95 c). — A favorite climatic resort of the Viennese. May Ih to Sept. 30; grape cure, Sept. to Oct.

Wiesbaden (15 hrs. ; 86 fr. 45 c). — The wateio are excitant, resolvent, reconstituent, and laxative, 30° to 165° F. For scrofula, rheumatism, paralysis, and impaired digestion.

Z'ixich. (18 hrs. ; 85 fr. 10 c.i. — Earthy alkaline waters.

DIPLOMATIC AND CONSULAR AGENTS OF THE UNITED STATES

IN THE

PRIXCIPAL EUROPEAN COUNTRIES

Vienna

Budapest Prague . Trieste . Carlsbad

Brussels

Antwerp (ihent . Liege .

Copenhagen

Paris

Algiers. Calais Oran Bordeaux

Austria= Hungary

. Ambassador, Richard C. Kerens Consul-GeneraJ, Charles Denby Consul- General, Paul Nash.

Covvsnl, Joseph I. Brittain. G. M. Hotschick. " Will L. Lowrie.

Belgium

. Minister, Charles Page Bryan, Consul-General, Ethelbert Watts. H. W. Diederich. Consul, William P. Atwell. " Henry A. Johnson.

Denmark

. Minister, Maurice F. Egan. Consul, Wallace C. Bond. Vice-Consul, Victor Juhler.

France

. Anihassador, Robert Bacon. Sec. of Embassy, A. Bailly-Blanchard. Consul- General, Frank H. Mason. Consul, Albert W. Robert. " James B. Milner. . Agent, Albert H. Elford. . Consul, Alfred K. Moe.

472 DIPLOMATIC AND CONSULAR AGENTS

Boulogne	Agent,
Havre .	Consul,
Brest . Cherbourg Cognac	Agent, Consul,
Limoges Lyons . Marseilles	Consul- Gen.,
Toulon Nantes .	Agent, Consul,
Nice	' i
Cannes .	Agent,
1VJ.C11LU1IO Rheims	. Consul,
ivouen . , Dieppe .	Agent,

William Whitman. James E. Dunning. A. Pitel. Octave Canuet. George H. Jackson. Engene L. Belisle. Hunter Sharp. Alphonse Gaulin. Francis M. Mansfield. Louis Goldschmidt. William D. Hunter. J. B. Cognet. Achille Isnard. William Bardel. Charles A. Hohler. W. Palmer-Sanborne.

Germany

Berlin

. Amdassador, " . Sec. of Embassy, " . Consul- General,

Aix-la-Chajjelle . Consul,

Bremen

Brunsvv^ick

Cologne

Crefeld

Dresden

Diisseldorff

Frankfort,

Hamburg

Leipsic

Mannheim

Mayence

Munich .

Nuremberg

Stuttgart

Weimar

Consul- General,

Consul,

Consul- General,

i I. a

Consul,

David J. Hill, Irwin B. Laughlin. Alex. M. Thackara. Pendleton King. William T. Fee. Talbot J. Albert. Hiram J. Dunlap, J. E. Haven. T. St. John Gaffnej. Peter Lieber. Richard Giiputher. Robert P. Skinner.

Consul- General, Consul,

Samuel H, Shank.

R, S. S. Berg. Thomas W. Peters. George N. Ifft, Edward Higgins. W. L. Lowrie.

OF THE UNITED STATES

473

Great Britain

London . Ambassador,

" . Consul-General, Liverpool . . Consul, Belfast . Birmingham Kidderminster . Agent, Wolverhampton Bradford . . Consul, Bristol Cardiff . Cork . Dublin Dundee Falmouth . . Agent, Gibraltar . . Consul, Glasgow Hull . Leeds . Malta . Manchester Newcastle Nottingham Plymouth Sheffield Southampton

Whitelavv' Reid. John L. Griffiths. Horace L. Washington. Henry B. Miller. Albert Halstead James Morton. Edward T. Cresswell. Augustus E. Ingram. Homer M, Byington. Lorin A. Lathrop. Henry S. Culver. Edward L. Adams. W. Stanley Hollis. Howard Fox. Richard L. Sprague. John N. McCunn. Walter C. Hamm. Benjamin F. Chase. William H. Gale. Church Howe. Horace W. Metcalf. Frank W. Mahin. Joseph G, Stephens. Charles N. Daniels. Albert W. Swalm.

Greece

Athens . . . Minister, George H. Moses.

" . Consul- G-eneral, George Horton. Patras . . . Consul, A. Donaldson Smith.

Holland

The Hague . . Mm ister, Arthur M, Beaupre. Amstei-dam . . Consul, Henry H. Morgan. Rotterdam Consul- Qeyieral, Soren Listoe. Flushing . , Agent, Pieter F. Auer.

474 DIPLOMATIC AND CONSULAR AGENTS

Rome .

Florence Geiioa . Leo'horn Milan . Naples . Palermo Venice .

Italy

Ambassador, John C. A. Leishman. Sec. of Embassy, John W. Garrett. Consul, Chapman Coleman. '' Jerome A. Quay. Consnl-General, James A. Smith. Consul, Ernest A Man. '■ Charles M. Caughy. " C. S. Crowningshield. " William H. Bishop. ' ' James Verner Long.

Christiania . Ilinister, Herbert H. D. PeircEo

'' Consul- General, Plenry Borclewich.

Consul, Felix S. S. Johnson.

Portugal

. Minister, Henry T. Gage. Consul- Greneral, Louis H. Ayme.

Agent, William H. Stuve.

Bergen .

Lisbon .

. <

Oporto . Bucharest

St. Petersbin'g Ambassador, Wm. W. Eockhill.

Sec. of Embassy, George P. Wheeler. " . . Consul, Jacob E. Conner.

Cojisul-General, John H. Snodgrass. Consul, Alex. Heingartner. " John H. Grout.

Jlinister, John JR,. Carter. Co7isul- General, Roland B. Harvey.

Moscow Batum . Odessa . Riga

Vladivostok Warsaw

Hernando de Soto. Lester Maynard. Thomas E. Heenan.

OF THE QNIIED STATES

475

Spain

Madrid . . 2Hnister, William M. Collier.

" . . Consul, Charles L. Hoover.

Barcelona Consul-General, Frank D. Hill.

Alicante . . Agent, Henry W. Carey.

Seville . . . Consul, Charles S Winans.

Malaga . . "' Edward J. Norton.

Valencia . . " Robert Prazer, Jr.

Cadiz . ■ . . Agent, James Sanderson.

Jerez de la Frontera Consul, Percival Gassett.

Teneriffe , . " Solomon Berliner.

Sweden

Stockholm . , Minister^ Charles H. Graves* Consul- General^ Edward D. Wiuslow.

Gothenburg	. Consul, Stuart J, Fuller.
	Switzerland
Berne .	. Minister, Laurits S. Swenson.
((	Consul, George Heimrod,
Basle .	" George Gifforcl.
Geneva .	" Francis B. Keene.
St. Gall	" Dominic I. Murphy.
Zurich. .	Consid- General, Robert E. Mansfield.

Turkey and Dominions

Constantinople Amtassad., Oscar S. Straus.

" Sec. of Emh., Henry L. Janes.

" Consul-Gen., Edward H. Ozmun.

Aleppo . . Consul, Jesse B. Jackson.

Alexandria . . " David R. Birch.

Bagdad . . " Frederick Simpich.

Beirut Consul-General, Gabriel Bie RavndaL

Cairo . " " Peter Augustus Jay.

Jerusalem . . Consul, Thomas R. Wallace, Smyrna Consul- General, Ernest L. Harris.

A SHOHT VOCABULARY IN ENGLISH, FRENCH

One. Two. Three.

Four. Five.

Six.

SeveiL

Eight.

Niue.

Ten.

Eleven.

Twelve.

Thirteen.

Fourteen.

Fifteen.

"Sixteen.

"Seventeen,

Eighteen.

-Nineteen,

Twenty,

Twenty-one.

Twenty-two.

Twenty-three, etc.

Thirty!

Thirty-one.

Thirty -two, etc.

Forty.

Fiay.

-Sixty.

"Seventy.

Un. Deux.

Trois.

Quatre,

Cinq.

Six.

Sept.

Huit

^'eu£

Dix.

Onze.

Douze.

Treize.

Qnatorze.

Quinze.

Seize.

Dix-sept.

Dix-huit.

Dix-neuf.

Vingt.

Vingt-et-un.

Viiigt-deux.

Viiigt-trois, etc.

T rente.

Trente-et-un.

Trente-deux, eto.

Quarante.

Cinquant-e.

Soixante.

Soixante-dix.

OF WORDS AND PHRASES

GERMA:^^, AKD ITALIAN.

Eins,	Uno.
Zwei.	Due.
Drei.	Tre.
Vier. Fiinf. Seclis.	QuattrG. " Cinque. Sei.
Biebea.	Sette.
A-cbt.	Otto.
NeuTi.	Nove.
Zehn.	Dieci.
Elf.	UndicL
Zwolf.	Dodici.
Dreizehn.	Tredici.
Vierzehn.	Quattordici.
."Fiinfzelm. Sechzebn.	Quindici. Sedici.
Siebzehn.	Diecisette; diciasettc
Acbtzeliu.	Dieciotto ; diciotto.
Neunzehn.	Diecinove; diciaimoviS,
Zwanzig.	Venti.
Eiu Tind zwanzig.	Vent' uno.
Zwei und zwanzig.	Venti due.
Drei nnd zwanzig, etc.	Venti tre, etc.
Dreissig. Ein und dreissig.	Trenta. Trent' uno.
?.wei und dreissig, etc.	Trenta due, eto.
Vierzig. 'ei'iinfzig. 5echzig. Siebzig.	Quaranta. Cinquanta. Sessanta. Settanta.

478 WORDS AND PHRASES IN ENGLISH,

Eighty.

Ninetj

A hundred.

Two hundred, etc.

A thousand.

Eleven hundred.

Twelve hundred.

Two thousand, etc.

A million.

The first.

The second.

The third.

The fourth.

The fifth.

The sixth.

The seventh.

The eighth.

The ninth.

The tenth.

The elevfefltti.

The last.

The kst bat ona

Once.

Twice.

The half..

The third.

The fourth.

The fifth.

The sixth, etc

A. river.

A fountain.

A waterfall

The gate.

An hour.

Half an hour.

Quatre-vingt. Quatre-vingt-dii. Cent. . Deux cents, etft. Mille.

Onze cents. Douze cents. Deux mille, et6 Un millioa. Le premier. Le second. Lb troisieme. Le quatrieme. Le cinquieme. Le sixierae. Le septieme. Le huitierae. Le neuvieme. Le dixieme. Le onzieme. Le dernier. L'avant-demier, Une fois. Deux fo's. La moitie. Dem^ Le tiers. Le quart. Le cinquieme. Le sixieme, etc Une riviere. Une fontaine. Une cascade. La porte. Une heure. ' Une demi-beure.

I

FRENCH, GERMAN, AND ITALIAN. 47d

Achtzig. Neunzig. Hundert. Zweiliundertj etc. Taiiseiid. Elfhundert. Zwolf hundert. Zwei Tausend, etc. Eine Million. Der Erste. Der Zweite. Der Dritte. Der Vierte. Der Eiinfte. Der Sechste. Der Siebente. Der Aclite. Der Neunte. Der Zehnte. Der Elfte. Der Letzte. Der Vorletzte. Einmal. Zweimal.

Die Halfte. Halb. Das Drittel. Das Viertel. Das Eiinftel. Das Sechstel, etc. Ein Eluss. Ein Brnnnen, Ein Wasserfall. Das Thor. Eine Stunde. "Wne halbe Stnnde.

Ottanta.

Novanta.

Cento.

Duecento; dugento, etc.

Mille.

Mille cento.

Mille dugento.

Due mila, etc.

Un milione.

II primo.

II secondo.

II terzo.

U quarto.

II quinto.

II sesto.

II settimo.

L' ottavo.

II nono.

II decimo.

L'undecimo; decimo pnifa*^

L' ultimo.

II penultimo.

Una volta.

Due volte.

La meta, MezzG

II terzo.

II quarto.

II quinto.

II sesto, etc.

Un fiume.

Una fontana ; una foutCt

Una cascata.

La porta.

Un' ora.

Una mezz' ora.

WOEDS AND PHRASES IN ENGLISH^

A quarter of an hour.

Sunday.

Monday.

Tuesday.

Wednesday.

Thursday.

Friday.

Saturday.

A holiday

The walls of the town.

A monument.

The tower.

A church.

The cathedral, minster.

A convent.

A chapel.

A palace.'

The town-hall.

The castle.

The theatre.

The custom-house.

The post-office.

The library.

The university.

The exchange.

The bank.

A square.

A bridge.

A shop.

A bookseller's shop.

A coffee-house.

An inn ; a hotel.

A dining-house.

A furnished room.

Breakfast.

Un quart d'heura

Dimanche.

Lundi.

Mardi.

Mercredi.

Jeudi.

Vendredi.

Samedi.

Un jour de fete,

Les murs de la viJUt

Un monument.

La tour.

Une eglise.

La cathedrale.

Un convent.

Une chapelle.

Un palais.

L'hotel de ville.

Le chateau.

Le theatre.

La douane.

Le bureau des posters

La bibliotheque.

L'universite.

La bourse.

La banque.

Une place.

Un ponfc.

Une boutique.

Une librairie.

Un cafe.

Une auberge ; un h6tel

Un restaurant.

Une chambre garnie.

Le deieuner.

FRENCH, GERMAN, AND ITALIAN. 481

Qiue viertel Stunde. Sonntag. Montag. Dienstag Mittwoch. Donnerstag. Freitag.

Samstag; Sonnabend. Bill Feiertag; eiii Festtag. Die Stadtmauern. Eiu Denkmal. Der Tliurm. Eine Kirclie. Das Miinster ; der Dom. Eia Kloster. Eine Kapelle. Ein Palast. Das Katlihaus. Das Schloss. Das Soliauspielhaus. Das Zollliaus, Mauthhaus. Die Post. Die Bibliothek. Die Universitat Die Borse. Die Bank. Ein Platz. Eine Briicke. Ein Kaufladen. Ein Bucliladen. Ein Kaffehaus. Ein Gasthaus ; ein Gastliof. Ein Speisehaus. Ein mdblirtes Zimmer. Das Eriihstiick.

Un quarto d' ora.

Domenica.

Lmiedi.

Martedi.

Mercoiedi.

Giovedi.

Venerdi.

Sabbato.

Un giorno di festa*

Le mura della citta.

Un monumento.

La torre.

Una chiesa.

La cattedrale.

Un convento.

Una cappella.

Un palazzo.

La casa della citfA.

II castello.

11 teatro.

La dogana.

L' ujfizio delle poste.

La biblioteca ; la libreria.

L' universita.

La borsa.

La banca.

Una piazza.

Un ponte.

Una bottega.

Una libreria.

Un calfe.

Un' albergo ; una locanda

Un trattore.

Una stanza mobigliata.

La colazione.

482

WOKDS AND PHRASES IN ENGLISH,

Luncheon.

Soup.

Hoast-beef.

Beef-steak.

Yeal.

Mutton.

Pork.

Eish.

Eggs.

Cake.

Butter.

Cheese.

Beer.

Ale.

Sherrj.

Ices.

A railway.

An express train.

That is true.

I believe so.

It is late.

I am fatigued.

I am thirsty; I am hungry.

It is time to set off.

That is not true.

I did not understand.

Who is it ?

What are you doing ?

What do you want ?

Where are you ?

Where is he ?

What is he doing ?

Where are you going ?

What do you say ?

Une collation.

La soupe.

Du boeuf roti, roast-beef

Beef-steak.

Du veau.

Du mouton.

Du cochon.

Le poisson.

Des oeufs.

Le gateau.

Le beurre.

Le fromage.

La biere.

L'ale.

Le vin d'Oporto.

Le vin de Xeres.

Les glaces.

Un chemin de fe;.

Un train de vitesse.

C'est vrai.

Je le crois.

II est tard.

Je suis fatigue.

J'ai soif ; j'ai faim.

II est temps de partir.

Cela n'est pas vrai,

Je n'avais pas compris.

Qui est-ce ?

Que faites-vous ?

Que voulez-vous ?

Ou etes-vous ?

Oil est-il ?

Que fait-il ?

Oil allez-vous ?

Que dites-vous P

FRENCH, GERMAN, AND ITALIAN. 483

Eine Zwisclieu-Mahlzeit.	Una colazione.
Die Suppe.	La zuppa.
Ochsenbraten.	Dell' arrosto di bue.
Beef-steak.	Beef-steak.
Kalbfleisch.	Del vitello.
Hammelfleisch.	Del castrato.
Schweinefleisch.	Del majale.
Der Fisch.	11 pesce.
Eier.	Delle uova.
Der Kuclien»	La focaccia.
Die Butter.	11 burro, butiro.
Der Kase.	11 formaggio.
Das Bier.	La birra.
Das Ale.	Labirra fattaconformento.
Der Portwein.	11 vino d' Oporto.
Xereswein.	11 vino di Xeres.
Das Eis.	I sorbetti ; i gelati.
Eine Eisenbalin.	Una strada ferrata.
Eiii Sclinellzug.	Convoglio celere.
Das ist wabr.	fe vero. •
Icli glaube es.	Lo credo.
Es ist spat.	E tardi.
Icb bin miide.	Sono stracco.
Ich bin durstig; hungrig.	Ho sete ; ho fame„
Es ist Zeit abzureisen.	E ora di partire.
Das ist nicht wahr.	Cio non e vero.
Ich verstand uicbt.	Non aveva capito.
Wer ist es ?	Chie?
Was macben Sie ?	Che cosa fate ?
Was wollen Sie ?	Che cosa volete ?
Wo sind Sie ?	Dove siete ?
Wo ist er ?	Dov' e ?
Was macht er ?	Che cosa fa ?
Wobin gehen Sie ?	Dove andate ?
Was sagen Sie ?	Che cosa dite ?

484 WORDS AND PHRASES IN ENGLISH,

Did you understand me ? Is diiiner ready ? Is it time to go ? Where shall we go ? When shall we set out? Are there any letters for

me? Come here. Make haste. Tell him to come.

Take care. Stop. Not so quick. Speak to him. Do what I tell you.

Go away.

Bring up the carriage.

Call (wake) me at five

o'clock. Yesterday. To-day. To-morro*/» Every da}. What name do you give to

that dish ? Bring me some bread.

Bring me a glass of water.

How much for wine ? What is the name of it ? At what hour shall we ar- rive at X ?

M'avez-vous compris? Le diner est-il pret ? Est-il temps de partir P Oil irons-nous ? Quand partirons-nous ? Y a-t-il des lettres poixt,

moi ? Vfenez-ici. Depechez-vous. Dites-lui de venir,

Prenez garde. Arretez.

Pas si vite.

Parlez-lui.

Paites ce que je vous dis*

Allez-vous en.

Paites avancer la voiture.

ReveiUez-moi a cinq

heures. Hier.

Aujourd'hui. Demain. Tous les jours. Quel nom don^iez-vous ^

ce mets ? Apportez-moi du pain.

Apportez-moi un verre

d'eau. Combien le vin ? Comment rappelez-vous? A quelle heure arriverons-

nous a X ?

FRENCH, GEKMAN, AND ITALIAN. 485

Haben Sie verstanden ? 1st das Mittagsessen fertig ? 1st es Zeit abzureisen ? Wohin sollen wir gelien ? Wanu sollen wir abreisen? Sind Briele fiir mich da ?

Kommen Sie hier.

Beeilen Sie sich.

Sagen Sie ihm, er moge

kommen. Geben Sie Acht. Halt. Nicht so sclmell. Sprechen Sie mit ihm. Thun Sie, was icli Ihnen

sage. Gelien Sie weg. Lassen Sie den Wagen vor-

fahren. Wecken Sie mich um fiinf

Uhr. Gestern. Heute. Morgen. Alle Tage. Welcben Namen geben Sie

diesem Gerichte? Bringen Sie mir etwas

Bi-od. Bringen Sie mir ein Glas

Wasser. Wie viel fiir den Wein ? Wie heisst er ? Um wie viel Uhr werden

wir in X ankommen ?

Mi avete capito ? h pronto il pranzo ? E egli ora di partire P Dove andremo ? Quando partn-emoP Ci sono lettere per meP

Venite qua. Spicciatevi. Ditegh che venga.

Badate. FermatevL

Non cosi presto.

Parlategli.

Fate quel che vi dico.

Andate via.

Fate venir avanti la cat*

rozza. SvegUatemi alle cinque.

leri.

Oggi. ^

Dimaui.

Ogni giorno.

Come cliiamate questa pie*

tanza ? Portatemi del pane.

Recatemi un bicchier d'ai*-

qua, Quanto costa il vino ? Come si ehiama ? A cbe ora arriveremo n(^

a X ?

486 WORDS AND PHRASES IN ENGLISH,

Wliat railway is tliat ?

Is it more expensive ? At what hour does the

steamboat start ? What is the fare ?

Have you a printed tariff?

Is the road easy to find ?

How far is it to X ?

What is the usual charge

by the day ? At what hour does it start ?

Which is the best hotel at

X? Are the charges moderate ? Where is the station for X ? Is this the train to X ? How soon shall we be

there ? Stop, coachman ! we wish

to get out. When must I be ready ?

I wish to see the landlord

of the hotel. Where is the water-closet ? Bring me fresh water.

1 with "^-o have breakfast (suppe3f^

Quel est ce chemin de fer?

Est-ce plus cher ?

A quelle heure le bateau k vapeur part-il ?

Quel est le prix du pas- sage ?

Avez-vous un tarif im- prime ?

Trouve-t-on facilement le chemin ?

Combien y a-t-il d'ici a X?

Combien donne-t-on ordi-

nairement par jour ? A quelle heure part-eUe ?

Quel est le meilleur hotel

aX? Y a-t-on bon marche ? Oil est I'embarcadere de X? Est-ce la le train pour X 1 Quand arriverons-nous ?

Arretez, cocher ! nous vou-

lons descendre. A quelle heure faut-il etre

pret? Je desire parler au maitre

de Thotel. Oil sont les lieux d'aisance ? Apportez de I'eau fraiche.

Je desirerais dejeuner (sou- per).

FRENCH, GERMAN, AND ITALIAN

487

fWas 1st das fiir erne Eisen-

bahii ? 1st es theurer ? Um "wie viel Uhr falirt das

Dampfschiff ab ? Wie viel betragt das Passa-

giergeld ? Haben Sie einen gedruck-

teiiTarif? 1st der Weg leicht zu fin- den? Wie weit ist es von hier

nacli X ? Was bezalilt man gewobn-

licb fiir den Tag ? Um wie viel Uhr fabrt er

ab? Welches ist der beste

Gasthor in X ? Ist es billig dort ? Wo ist der Balmhof nach X? Ist dies der Zug nach X? Wie bald werden wir dort

sein ? Halt, Kutsclier ! Wir wol-

len aussteigen. Wann muss ich fertig sein ?

Icb wiinsche denHerrn des

Hauses zu sehen. Wo ist der Abtritt ? Bringen sie frisches Was-

ser. Ich wiinsche dasEriihstiick

(das Abendessen).

Quale h questa slrada Telf*

rata ? h piu caro ? A die era parte il batello

a vapore ? Quanto costa il trasporto

de' passeggieri? Avete una lista stampata.

E la via facile a trovarsi?

Quanto distante e X ... da

qui ? Quanto si spende al giorno

di solito ? A che era parte ?

Qual e il miglior albergo in

X? Sono i prezzi equi cola P Dov' e 1' imbarcatoio di X ? E quello H traino per X ? Ci arriveremo presto ?

Fermatevi, vetturino, vo- gliamo discendere.

A che era debbo esser pronto ?

Yorrei parlare al maestro di casa.

Dov' e la ritirata ?

Portatemidell' acquafresca.

Vorrei far colazione (ce- nare).

488 WORDS AND PHRASES IN ENGLISH,

Give me sometliiug to eat. At what hour do we dine ?

Show me your bill of fare

and list of wines. Bring me the newspaper. Is he ready ? Which is the way to the

post-office ? How much is the postage ? Send that letter to the post.

Where does a banker live ? I wish to see a medical man.

What fee should I give

him ? Can I have a warm bath ?

Bring me some soap. Order a hackney-coach for

me. Make a good fire. How much have I to pay?

Bring me my account.

Turn to the right, left,

straight forward. How much is charged for

admission ? What direction must I

take? Can I have dinner ?

Donnez-moi quelque chos6

a manger. A quelle heure dinons.

nous ? Montrez-moi la carte.

Apportsz-moi le journal.

Est-il pret ? Pourriez-vous m'indiquer

la poste aux lettres ? Coaibien pour le port ? Faites jeter cette lettre a la

poste. Oil demeure un banquier ? Je desire voir un medecin,

Combien faut-il lui donner?

Pourrais-je avoir un bain

chaud ? Apportez-moi du savou. Faites-moi venir une voi-

ture de louage. Faites un bou feu. Combien dois-je ?

Apportez-moi mon compte.

Prenez a droite, a gauche,

marchez tout droit. Quel est le prix d'entree ?

Quelle direction faut-il qug

je prenue ? Pourrais-je y diner?

I

FRENCH, GERMAN, AND ITALIAN. 489

Geben Sie mir etwas zu

esseii. Uin wie viel Ulir speisenwir

zu Mittag ? Zeigeii Sie mir den Speise-

zettel. Bringeu Sie mir die Zeituug. 1st er bereit ? Welches ist der Weg zur

Post ? Wie viel betriigt das Porto ? Seuden Sie dieseu Brief zur

Post. Wo wolnit eiu Banquier ? Ich wiiusche eiueii Arzt zu

spreclieii. Wie viel Houorar soil ich - ihm gebeii ? ^ami ich eiu warmes Bad

bekommen ? Briugeu Sie mir Seife. Bestellen Sie mir eiue

Lohnkutsehe. Macheu Sie eiu gutesPeuer. Wie viel habe ich zu be-

zahlen. Briugeu Sie mir die Rech-

iiuug. Geheu Sie recht«, liuks,

geradeaus. Wie hoch ist der Eiutritts-

preis ? Welche Richtuug muss ich

uehmeu ? Kau ich das Mittagsessen

habeu ?

Datemi qualclie cosa

uiangiare ? A che ora si prauza f

da

Mostrateuii la lista e la notSb

dei viui. Portateuii la gazzetta. h egli all' ovdhie ? Potreste iudicaruii U cam-

niiuo che va alia posta P Quauto costa il porto P Pate portare questa letters

alLi posta. Dove abita uu bauchiere P Desidererei parlare con un

medico. Quauto gli debbo dare P

Potrei avere iiu baguo

caldo ? Portatemi uu po'di sapoue. Ordiuatemi una carrozza da

nolo, uu fiacre. Pate un buon fuoco. Quauto vi debbo ?

Portatemi il mio conto.

Si Volga a destra, a sinistra,

vada diritto, Quauto costa il biglietto

d'iugresso ? Qual direzioue devo pren*

dere ? Potrb avervi il prauxo P

490 ~ WORDS AND PHEASES IN ENGLISH,

How muclif

Have you no better ?

It is- fine. It is very hot. Does it rain ? It is cold. Send for a cab.

Coachman, drive me to the station.

Where is the baggage- room?

Please to give me tv^o first- class tickets to X.

lere tney are. ;y"hat do they cost ?

At what hour is supper

ready. That's very dear. Where are our rooms ?

Have any letters arrived for Mr. N., poste restante? Here is my passport. Is breakfast ready ? Give me a drink. What o'clock is it ? What kind of weather is it ? How do you do ? Yery well, I thank you. Have you a room to let ?

Combien ?

N'avez-vous rien de meil.

leur ? II fait beau. II fait tres chaud. Pieut-il ? II fait froid. Eaites chercher un fiacre.

Cocher, conduisez-moi au

cliemin de fer. Oil est le bureau de ba-

gages ? Deux billets de premiere

classe pour X, s'U vous

plait. Voila, monsieur. Combien ces billets P

A quelle heure soupe-t-on?

C'est bien cher.

Oil sont nos chambres ?

Y a-t-il des lettres poste re- stante pour Monsieur !N . ?

Voici mon passeport.

Le dejeuner est-il servi ?

Donnez-moi a boire.

Quelle heure est-il?

Quel temps fait-il ?

Comment vous portez-vous ?

Eort bien, je vous remercie.

Auriez-vous une chambre a me louer ?

p

FRENCH, GERMAN, AND ITALIAN. 491

Wie viel ?

Haben Sie niclits Bes-

seres ? Es ist schon. Es ist sehr heiss. Regnet es ? Es ist kalt. Lasseu Sie eine Droschke

liolen. Kiitscher, faliren Sie micli

nacli der Eisenbalm. Wo ist die Gepackan-

nahme ? Ich bitte um zwei Billete

erster Klasse nach X.

flier siud sie.

WiQ viel kosten sie ?

Um wie viel Ulir ist das

Abendessen fertig ? Das ist sehr tlieuer. Wo siiid unsere Zinimer ?

Sind Briefe angekommen

far Herrn N.^ Hier ist mein Pass. Ist das rriihstiick fertig ? Geben Sie mir zn triuken. Wie viel Uhr ist es ? Wie ist das Wetter ? Wie befinden Sie sicli ? Sebr wohl, icli daiike Ilmen . Haben Sie ein Zimmer zii

vermiethen ?

Quanto ?

Non ne avete di miglioref

Fa bel tempo.

Fa caldissinio.

Piove ?

Fa freddo.

Fate cercare un fiacre.

Cocchiere, coi)ducetenii alia

strada ferrata. Dov' e r ufficio deglieffettiP

Due biglietti di prima classe per X, se vi place

Ecco, siguore.

Quanto avete pagato pe^i

questi biglietti ? A clie ora si cena ?

E carissimo.

Dove sono le uostre ch

mere ? Vi sono lettere per il Sig

nor N. post a restante ? Ecco il mio passaporto. E in tavola la colazione ? Datemi da bere. Che ora e ? Che tempo fa ? Come sta?

Benissimo, la ringrazio. Avrebbe una camera d

affittare ?

TRAI^ELLEES' ±je3LE GRAPHIC CODE.

Before maMng ui^e of the tvordf^ in this Code, it is essential that intending users should satisfy themselves that the friends with whom thty intend to correspond have in their possession '^e same edition of ihe work as the one about to be used.

This Code is intended as a means of reducing tlie expense of telegraphing. A single woi'd means a whole sentence. A copy of the Code should he left with the person at home to whom telegrams would naturally be sent (whose name and address should be registered at the local telegraph-office). The blank ciphers are for private phrases, to form a personal Code between two persons, who may agree upon certain sen- tences, and write them carefully in their two books. This Code has been made up expressly for The Complete Pocket-Guide.

Almond Telegraph to .

Almost Telegraph as soon as possibla

Aloes Telegraph your reply.

Aloft Telegraph and keep us well posted.

Aloof Inform us hy telegraph.

Aloud. Telegraph us what to do.

Air Telegraph if you do not understand our despatch.

Ajar Cannot understand your telegram. Please repeat.

Akin We cannot understand tlie word in your tele- gram. Please repeat it.

Alack The word you do not understand is — — .

Alarm , . . .Your despatch received.

Agog Answer my telegram of— — .

Agony .Answer immediately by telegraph.

Aided. Answer by telegraph at — -.

Alter Telegraphed you, but have no reply.

Alum Have you received our telegram of — ?

Amaze Have received your telegram of — — .

Amber If you wish to communicate with me by telegrajrtl,

do so at , before — =-.

Amboy Please advise by telegraph.

Amen Get despatch at telegraph office.

Amical Before despatch received, we had — — .

Amidst ....Have you sent us a despatch to-day?

Aniity- If we don't telegraph you by — — , you may con- clude — '■

I

TBAVELLERS' TELEGRAPHIC CODE. 493

Ample. If you don't telegraph us by • ,we shall —

Amplify What is reaBon of delay in reply to our telegramf

Amuse

AnalogTT

Anatomy ....

Ancestor

Anchor.......

Ancient

' Andiron

Anew

Angrel

Angry

Animal .....

Animate

^nkle

Annals --

Annex

Annul

Appeal

Apply

.\pron •.

Baby Your letter of — is recmveu.

Sack Your letter is received.

Bacon Send letters kere untU the— -«v

Badly Send letters to — -until the— ^

Backstay Send letters care of——.

Badger We write you .

BafQ.e "We wrote you last maiL

Bag Will write you at once.

Ball Full information by to-day's maiL

Bake Have sent you letter by to-day's mau.

Balcor "t Letter was sent.

Bald Answer by mail

Ballad No letter to-day ; telegraph contents if inuiorfiaitl

Balm Have received no letters since ^

Banjo Forward no letters after —^.

Bandit We forwarded letters to — «— on the — — -

494 TRAVELLERS' TELEGRAPHIC CODE.

Banner Your letter of received and agreed to.

Banquet Your letter of received and answered.

Baron All matter to date has been forwarded.

Bazar Have you any mail matter on hand for us ?

Beadle Await our letter.

Beast We have advices which, in our opiuinof may cauge

your return to -. Where will a lel^ey s«on«*i

reach you?

Beauty We have written you fully on the f vt,it*'.<:

Beckon What is reason of delay in replying t,^ i-jw let^ *

Bed

Beef

Befog

Beggar ,.

Betide .........

Bestow

Betray

Biceps

Birch

Blast ....o

Behead

Behold ..o......

Belay .....o

Bench

Belt .............

Bias e

Biped ....,.,..,«

Birthday ....«

Bishop

Bivalve ......»«

Blaci£iesr —"»

Blaze

V

TEAVELLERS* TELEGRAPHIC CODE. 495

Cabin ...We shall return at once hy ——,

Daboose , ...We shall return at once by the — — .

Cadet We shall sail for home on the — =-.

Cage We sail — — .

Dake When does — -sail?

CJalico We think it best to delay departure.

Calxa ..We think it best to delay departure until ——. Ifao

further advice, shall leave on that day for w

Caloric Cannot leave' .

Uameo Cannot leave until — — .

Camp Cannot leave = . Will sail by next steamsr*

Janal Have missed steamer.

Canary Have missed steamer ; will sail by next,

Candy When does leave?

Cane Steamer sails on .

Jannon Sailing postponed until .

Uanopy Tickets lost; send duplicates.

Canteen ...Arrived all well; pleasant passage. Tell — -^ Canvass ...Arrived all well, but stormy passage. TeU — .

Caper Arr. all well; pleasant passage. Shall proceed to i .

Caprice Arr. all well, but stormy passage. Shall proc. to— «-•;

Oapsize Arrived all well ; have written.

Cap sule Arrived all well. Address letters to — — .

Captain Has arrived?

Caramel . . .He arrived on — — . Caravan ...He has not arrived.

Carbon Return at once.

Card Return as soon as possible.

cardinal ...Return at once. Important matters demand your pres«

ence here. Careworn. .Things look blue. Unless strong reason to the contraif, should like to have you shorten your trip.

Cargo You need not return.

Carmine ...You need not return until .

Catnip You must be here by the .

Caxton Impossible to return untU— — ,

Cement Arrange for our return.

Central Cannot return unless .

Chafe If agreeable, will remain — — .

Chair "When wiU you return?

Chancel ..."V^hen do you expect to be hei-e ?

Chaos We shall be with you by the ——.

Chapter ....Secure passage by this steamer. Charcoal ...We shall come by the train leaving at i «%

Chariot .Wp shall arrive at this station bv train due at ^"^

Charity

Charm

Cherisli

496

TEAVELLERS' TELEGRAPHIC CODE

Cider ..... Cimeter. Cipher .. Circuit ..

Citadel

Clack

CoU

CoUc

Confront ...

Dabble Send cable transfer for — — , through — -.

Dabster Send me new credit for — — , through — — .

Dactyl Remit to me by telegraph through — — .

Daffodil ....Remit by mail: —

Dagger £5

Dainty 10

Dale 15

Dally . ........ 20

Damper 25

Dance 30

Dandy 35

Dangling 40

Daring 45

Dark 5u

Darkey ......£55

Dashed 60

Daub 65

Daylight 70

Daytime 75

Deacon .» 80

Deadeye ...... 85

Deaf 90

Debased 95

Debatable ...100

Debility ...£I25

Debut 150

Decamp 175

Decay 200

Deceit 250

Decide 300

Decimal 400

Declare 500

Decrease ...Remit at once.

Deem We have remitted.

Deface Have you forwarded remittance?

Defeat We cannot remit.

Defection... We cannot remit more than — — . Defence ....We send draft by first mail. Defiance ....Will honor draft.

Deform Will honor draft to amount of — — .

Defrayed ..Will you honor my draft r

Deftly Will you honor my draft to amount of

Delve Please prepay passage per .

Demerit ....Please prejjay passage, and telegraph name of steamei. Dexnocrat- • Have prepaid your passage per , sailing on — ~^

TRAVELLERS' TELEGRAPHIC CODE. 4t91

Demon ..... Are without ftmds j aend money to — — r bentist

Ounce '

Damask =..• Dastard ...- Daughter ..

Debris

Destiny

Deck

Denizen

Denote .-

Dense

Depose ..... Depress ..... Derange ....

Device .......

Dilute .......

Disclose ....

Distress ....

Divan «

Dock ^

Dome

Dowdy

Drab

Drama

Drill «

Dress

Drum

E agle In conseqiience of illness of — -, we are detained hern.

Send letters here uutil the .

lElartll — ■'— is better, and we hope to leave on tlie -"'j*.

£iast —— ~ is seriously ill ; will advise vou again.

■498 TRAVELLERS' TELEGRAPHIC CODE

Ebony — is sick, but not dangerously.

Echo is iiiiprovinji; slowly.

Edible is very iiiucU l)ei,ter ; no need of your retummg

Editor — - is no better. Would eoiiie home at once.

Educate .... is in a critical condition.

Efface • is rapidly sinking.

Effort — — ■ died last niglit.

Eg'ress — — died yesterday.

Elapse died to-day.

Elaborate .Please e.icprcss our sympathy.

Electric We are all well, and there is no need of your retumiug

Elevate Hope all are well.

Enchant . . .AH are well.

Elixir

Elongate .,.

Elope

Eluded

Empire

Emiilate ...

Endow

Engine

Gadfly Stay as long as you like. Everything is as it should he,

and all are well.

Gaiter Everything sound, and doing well.

Galaxy We propose extending tour.

Gallant We propose extending tour to — — . It all right, tel&

graph.

Game When will you be in - — ?

Garden We expect to reach — - by ■ .

Garrison . . . Will meet you at .

Gastric We wish to know where you can be met between no»

and .

Gazette ...Do as yon think best.

Gender Can you arrange?

Genial We can arrange.

Geyser We cannot arrange.

Ghost Everything satiafactorilv.air-«,^.£-eiL

If

TRAVELLERS' TELEGRAPHIC CODE 499

Gimlet "We think it advisable to .

Ginger We think well of .

Girlhood . . .We do not think well of — — . Gladden . . . .Act according to your own iudg;ment.. Glancing ...Kow is business?

Glass Business is good. Everything all right.

Gleam Auytlung the matter ? No word from you by mail or wiw

Glide Send us word at once.

Glinimer ...Nothing the matter; all well. Have written.

Glisten Do nothing until you hear from me.

Glory Where is — — ?

Glue Do you know address of ?

Goblin Address of party is •.

Goddess .:.. Address cannot be given. Gondola . . . When did you send — — i Goodness ..Have you done so ? Gotham ....Have you done anything I*

Gothic Keep this confidentiaJL

Gouge '

Gout

Govern

Gown

Grab ....

Grade ,

Gradual ..,

Gram.niar..

Greedy

Griet „

Grocer ...

Growl

Grain..

Gruft ..

Guard

Guanc

Tuide..

•••♦

INDEX.

^BEVILLE, 166. Abbotsford, 94. Aberdeen, 83. Abergele, 31. Abo, 455. Adelsberg, 258. -ffitna, Mount, 386. Aghadoe, 8. Agrani, 258. Ahrweiler, 225. Ailsa Craig, 59. Airolo, 283. Aix-la-Chapelle,

203.

Aix-les-Bains, 440. Alatri,371. Albacete, 414. A.ll>ano, 366. Alessandria, 305, Alfort, 196, Algeciras, 421. Alicante, 414. Alio way, 58. Alpnacii, 284. Althorp Park, 125. Altorf, 282. Amalfi, 383. Ambleside, 45, 44. Amboise, 198. Ambras, 265.

Aaaiens, 166.

Amsteg, 362. Amsterdam, 215. Anagni, 371. Anagno, Lake, 377. Ancoua, 328. Andermatt, 283. Andernach, 226. Anglesea, 27.

221,

Angoulfime, 439. Annan, 56. Annesley, 108. Antemnfe, 366. Antibes, 399. Antwerp, 211. Aosta, 295. Apennines, 328. Appian Way, 363. Aqua Acetosa, 365. Aquino, 371. Aranjuez, 426. Arbroath, 83. Arcachon, 439. Ardchattan, 74. Ai'drishaig, 79. Arenfels, 225. Arezzo, 338. Ariccia, 367. Aries, 401. Arnhem, 217. Arona, 299, 398. Arras, 166. Ashton, 10 i. Asni^res, 165. Assisi, 339. Assmannsliausen, 232. Athlone, 23. Auburn, 23. Augsburg, 266. Avernus, Lake, 378. Avignon, 403. Avoca, Vale of, 30. Awe, Loch, 78. Ayr, 58.

BacharacHj 231. Badajos, 434 Bade'n-Baden, 273. BaggMge, xii. "^aia, J78.

Baireuth, 270.

Balearic Isles, 409.

Ballater, 84,

Balmoral, 84.

Balquhidder, 73.

Bamberg, 270.

Banavie, 76.

Bangor, 38, 36.

Bannockburn, 81.

Barbizon, 197.

Barcelona, 406.

Baslf, 374.

Bassenthwaite. 53.

Bath, 157.

Battle Abbey, 155.

Bayonne, 433.

Baziascli, 256.

Bedford, 125, Belcaro, 339.

Belfast, 25. Belgium, 201. Belgrade, 256, Bellaggio, 300. Bellinzona, 379. Belvoir Castle, 107. Ben Ledi, 72, 73, Ben Lomond, 70. Ben Venue, 71, 72. Bergamo, 307. Bergen, 448. Berlin, 341. Bernardino Pass, 379. Berne, 387. Bernese Oberland,385i Bernina Pass, 380. Besangon, 404 Beverley, 103. Biarritz, 433. Bienne, 391. Bingen. 233.

f

INDEX

501

Birmingham, ix/, 124. Black forest, 272, 273. Blaruey Castle, 4. Blois, 197. Blue Grotto, 382. Bologna, 322. Bonn, 222. Boppard, 230. Bordeaux, 437. Bordighera, 396. Borromeaa Isles, 299. Boston, 106. Bothwell, 68. Bougival, 194. Boulogne, 161. Bowness, 45. Bozen, 265. Bracciano, 370. Bradford, 103. Braemar, 84. Bray, 20. Bremen, 239. Brenner Pass, 265. Brescia, 307, 305. Brest, 168. Brieg, 296. Brienz, 284. Brighton, 155. Evindisi, 328 Bristol, 158. Britannia Bridge, 27. Broek. 217. Bruck, 258. Bruges, 207. Briinig Pass, 284. Brunswick, 238. Brussels, 204. Bucharest, 257- Budapest, 255, Bulgaria, 257, Burgos, 433. BiitC; 79. Buttermere, ^2. Cadeijabbia, 301. Cadiz, 421. Caen, 167. Caernarvon, 29. Calais, 161. Caledonian Canal 76. Sallauder, 73.

Camaldoli, 337. Cambridge, 123. Canipagna, The, 364. Cannes, 398. Cannstadt, 267. Canossa, 325. Canterbury, 160. Capellen, 229. Capri, 382. Capua, 371. Cardilf, 158. Cardross, 67, 69. Carlisle, 55. Carlsbad, 249. Carlsruhe, 272. Carrara, 392. Caserta, 381. Cashel, 14. Cassel, 238. Cassino, 371. Castel, 235. Castellaniare, 381. Castel Gandolfo, 367. Catania, 385. Canb, 231. Cauterets, 437. Cawdor Castle, 78. Certosa, La, 304, 337. Cesena, 327. Cette, 406. Chalons, 200. Chambord, 198. Chamounix, 293. Chantilly, 195. Charleroi, 202. Charlottenburg, 245. Cliartres, 168. Chateau Thierry, 199. Chatham, 160. Cliatillon, 197. Chatsworth, 109. Chaumont, 198. Chaudfontaine, 203. Chenonceaux, 198. Cherbourg, 167. Chester, 32. Chiavenna, 279. Chiemsee, 261. Chillon, 291. CUioggia. 320.

Chiswick, 154. Ciiristiania, 445. Civita, Vecchia, 389. Clarens, 2'»i. Cloyne, 5. Coblence, 227. Cuburg, 240. Coimbra, 435, Coire, 278. Colchester, 154. Col de Balme, 292. Colcraine, 24. Colico, 301, 279. Cologne, 218. Conio, Lake, 300. Conipiegne, 196. Coniston Lake, 46. Conneniara, 23. Constance, 275. Consiils, xviii. Conway, 29. Copenhagen, 441. Coppet, 290. Cora Linn, 68. Cordova, 415. Cork, 3.

Cornice Road, 395, Correggio, 325. Cortona, 338. Coventry, 112. Cracow, 257. Cremona, 310, 305. Ci'onstadt, 456. Culloden, 78. Cumae, 378. Daemstabt, 27S. Delft, 213. Denmark, 441. Derby, 108. Derbyshire, Peak o^

108. Derwentwater, 52i Dieppe, 161, Dijon, 198. Dinan. 168. Dissciitis, 279. Domo d' Ossola, 288. Douai, 201. Dover, 161. .Drac>>eniel3.223.

502

INDEX.

Dresden, M&. Drogheda, 20. Drontlieimj 447. Dryburgh Abbey, 94. Dublin, 14, Dulwich, 153. Dumbarton, 66. Dumfries, 56. Dunblane, 81. Dundee, 83. Dunkeld, 83. Dunottar Castle, 83. Durham, 95. Diisseldorf, 218. Eastbourne, 155. Eaton Hall, 35. Eaiix-Bonnes, 437- Eaux-Chaudes, 437. Ecclefechan, 55. Eddystone Light, 159. Edenhall, 54. Edinburgh, 85. Ehrenbreitstein, 238. Ehrenfels, 233. Eisenach, 239. Elsinore, 444. Elstow, 125. Eltville, 234. Ely, 123.

Emmerich, 217, 218. Ems, 228. Engadine, 279. Enghien, 195. England, 32. Erfurt, 240. Ermenonville, 196. Escurial, 429. Esthwaite, 44. Eton, 151. Etretat, 162. Evora, 436. Evreux, 167. E-eter, 159. Eaenza, 327. Faro, 436. F6camp, 162. Ferentmo, 371. Eerney, 289. Ferrara, 321. Fiesole, 337.

Florence, 329.

Fliielen, 282. Folkestone, 160. Foligno, 339. Fontainebleau, 196. Foiii, 337. Fort Augustus, 77. Fountains Abbey, 97. France, Northern, 161. France, Southern, 397- Frankfort, 336. Frascati, 368. Freiburg, 273, 288. Frejus, 399. Frosinone, 371. Frutigen, 287. Fulda, 239. Furca Pass, 383. Furness Abbey, 43. Filrstenberg, 332. G-ALWAY, 23.

Garda, Lake of, 301,

303. Gastein, 260. Gemrai Pass, 287. Geneva, 289. Genoa, 393. Genzano, 367. Germany, 318. Gerona, 406. Ghent, 209. Giants' Causeway, 24. Gibraltar, 420. Giessbach, 385. Girgenti, 389. Giurgevo, 257. Glamis Castle, 83. Glasgow, 60. Glastonbury, 153. Glen Fruin, 67. Gorner Grat, 295. Gotha, 240. Gothenburg, 445. Granada, 417. Granville, 167. Grasmere, 50. Gratz, 258. Greenock, 67, 80. Greenwich, 153. Grimsel Pi.ss, 283.

Grindelwald, 385. Grotta Ferrata, 368i Haaelem, 215. Hague, The, ^13. Hal, 201. Halle, 241. Hamburg, 339, 441. Hamilton, 67. Hammerfest, 448. Hammerstein, 226. Hampstead, 153. Hampton Court, 152.? Hanover, 238. Harrogate, 98. Harrow, 154. Hastings, 155. Havre, 162. Haworth, 103. Heidelberg, 370. Helensburgh, 67. Helvellyn, 51. Herculaneum, 379. Highgate, 153.

Highlands, ScottisUi

68. Holland, 212.

Holyhead, 27.

Homburg, 237.

Hotels, XX.

Hull, 103.

Hy&res, 399.

Innsbkuck, 264.

Interlaken, 285.

Inverary, 70.

Inverness, 78.

Inversnaid, 71, 69.

lona, 76.

Ireland, 1, 26.

Iron Gates, 257.

Irongray, 57-

Irun, 433.

Ischia, 383.

Ischl, 260.

Iseo, 301.

Isola Bella, 299.

Italy, 297.

Jerez, 422.

Johannisberg, 233.

Julier Pass, 279.

Jungfrau, 286.

INDEX.

503

Kaa^jEhsteg, 287. Kasan Defile, 257. Katrine, Loch, 71. Kelhoini, 269. Kenil worth, 114. Keswick, 52, 53, Kew, 152. Kidderminster, 111. Killarney, 6, 10, Kingstown, 21. Kouiorn, 255. Konigsstuhl, 230, 271. Konigswinter, 223. Konigstein, 248. Kreuznach, 233. Laach, 226. Laekeii, 206. Lahueck, 230. Laibach, 258. Lanark, 68. Lausanne, 288, 199. Leamiiigton, 121. Lscco, 301. Leeds. i02. Le^-hor.,, 389. Leipsic, ,240. Leith, 91, Lemberg, 257. Lerida, 411. Lerins, Isles of, 399. Letter of Credit, ix. Leuk, Baths of, 287,

296. Leyden, 215. U^ge, 202. Lille, 202. Limerick, 13. Lincoln, 105. Link oping, 444. Linlithgow, 82. Linz, 225, 259. Ijisbon, 434. Lisieux, 167. iLiiverpool, 36, viii. Lland^fF, 158. Locarno, 299. liodorc, 52. Lomond, Locii, 65f. i.'Ondoh, :28. LoiilondciTy, '^5.

Lorch, 233. Louvain, 207. Lucca, 392. Lucerne, 280. Lugano, 300, 279. Luino, 299. Lund, 444. Lurlei,231. Luxembourg, 204. Lyons. 403. Macon, 199. Madrid, 426. Magdeburg, 238. Maggiore, Lake, 298. Majorca, 409. Malaga, 419. Malaniocco, 320. Malmaison, 194. Malmo, 444. Manchester, 104. Mannheim, 271. Mantes, 165. Mantua, 310. Marburg, 238. Margate, 154, Marino, 368. Marksburg, 230. Marly, 195. Marseilles, 399, 297. Martigny, 292. Matterhoru, 295. Mauchline, 57. Mayence, 234. Maynooth, 22. Meaux, 199. Mechlin, 210. Meiringen, 284. Melrose, 93. Menaggio, 300. Menai Bridge, 28. Mentone, 397. Mer de Glace, 293. Messina, 384, Metz, 233. Meudon, 197. Milan, 302. Minorca, 409. Miramar, 259. Modena, 324, 310. Monaco 397.

Money, xv. Monreale, 388. Mons, 201. Monserrat, 408. Mont Blanc, 293. Monte Cenis, 297. Monte Rosa, 295. Montgomerie, 58. Montmdrencv, 195. Montpellier, 405. Montrose, 83. Morat, Lake, 291. Moscow, 460, Moselle River, 228. Mouse Tower, 233. Mt. St. Michel, 167, Munich, 261, 310, 249, Murano, 320, Murren, 286, Naiun, 78. Namur, 202. Nancy, 200. Naples, 370. Narbonne, 406. Nemi, Lake, 367. Neuchatel, 291. Neiiwled, 226. Newark, 107. Newcastle, 95, Newmarket, 124. Nice, 398. Niederwald, 233. Niederwerth, 227. Nijni-Novgorod, 463. Nlmes, 401. Nisida, 377. Nonnenwerth, 324. Northampton, 125. Norway, 445. Nottingham, 107. No vara, 306. Nuremberg, 267, Oban, 74, 78. Ober-Ammergau, 264 01)erwesel, 231. Ocean Voyage, viL Odessa, 462. Oporto, 436. Orange, 403. Orleans, 197.

604

INDEX.

Orta, 301. Orvieto, 338 Ostend, 207 Ostia, 370. Otranto, 328. Oxford, 125. Padua, 311. PiKstum, 383. Palermo, 387. Palestrina, 369. Palma, 409. Paris, 168 Parma, 324. Passports, ix. Pau, 436. Pavia, 305. Perpi2;nan, 406. Perth; 82. Perugia, 338. Pesaro, 327. Peschiera, 301, 308. Pesth, 255.

Peterborough, 121, 106. Pfalz, 231. Piaoenza, 310, 305. Pierrefonds, 196. Pillnitz, 247- Pisa, 390. Pistoja, 328, Plymouth, 159. Poitiers, 440. Pompeii, 379. Pontresina, 280. Port Mahon, 409. Portsmouth, 156. Portugal, 434. Posilippo, 376. Potsdam, 245. Pozzuoli, 377. Prague, 248. Presburg, 255. Procida, 382, 383. queenstown, 2. Ragatz, 277. ■Railways, xvi. Rarasgate, 154 . Rapperschwvl, 277. Ratisbou, 26'9. Ravel lo, 383. Ravenna, 325.

Reggio, 325, 384. Remagen, 225. Renfrew, 66. Rheims, 199. Rheineck, 226. Rheinfels 230. Rheinstein, 232. Rliense, 230. Rhine, 222. Rhone Glacier, 283. Richmond, 152. Righi, The, 281. Rimini, 327. Ripon, 97. Riva, 302. Rochester, 159, Rolaudseck, 224. Rome, 340. Roslin, 92, Rothesay, 79. Rotterdam, 212. Roubaix, 202. Rouen, 163. Roveredo, 265, 310. Rovigo, 321. Rowardennan, 69. Riidesheim, 233. Rueil, 194. Rugby, 12L Russia, 455. Rustchuck, 257. Rydal, 49. Rydc, 1.57. Saot^ntum, 412. St. Albans, 154. St. Andrews, 83. St. Bernard Pass 294. St. Cloud, 193. St. Denis, 195. ■^t. Germain, 194. St. Goar, 230. St. Golhard Pass, 280,

279 St. Malo, 168. St. Maurice, 292. St. Moritz, 280. St. Petersburg, 456. St. Quentin, 201. St. Thf'odule Pass, 295. Salerno, 383.

Salisbury, 156.

Salzburg, 259. ^ 1

Salzkaniinergut, 260, B

San Manno, 327, ^ '

San Renio, 395.

San Sebastian, 433.

Santarem, 434.

Saragossa, 410.

Savona, 395.

Saxon Switzerland.

247- Sa.von-les-Bains, 295. Sceaux, 197. Schaffhausen, 275. Scheveningen, 214. Schiedam, 213. Schonbrunn, 254. Scotland, 56. Sebastopol, 462. Sedan, 200. Semmering Pass, 25S»

298. Servia, 256. Seville, 422, Sevres, 194. Sheffield, 105. Sicily, 384. Siena, 3.39.

Simplou Pass, 295, 294, Sion, 295. Solfatara, 377. Solferino, 308. Sorrento, 381. Southampton, 156. Spa, 203. Spain, 405. Spezia, La, 393, 325. Spires, 271. Spliisren Pass, 37?'. Staffa, 75. Stahleek, 231. Staubbach, 286. Steamships, x. Stirling, 80. Stockholm, 449. Stolzenfels, 229. Strasbourg, 272, 200. Stratford-on- Avon, 118, Stut.tgart, 266. Subiaco, 369.

INDEX.

505

dweden, 449.

Switzerland, 274. Syracuse, 38G. Taormina, 385. Taranto, 328. Tarascon, 403. Tarragona, 413. Teplitz, 349. Temi, 339.

ThrasYmene Lake, 338. Throndhjem, 447. Tlmn, Lake of, 286. Tivoli, 368. Toledo, 430. Torcello, 321. Torquay. 159 Tortosa, 412. Toulon, 399 Toulouse, 439, Tours, 198. Trent, 26", 310. Treves, 339. Trouville, 1()3. Trieste, 331, 258. Trossachs, The, 71.

Tunbridge Wells, 155. Turin, 305, Tusculum, 368. Tyrol, 364. Ullswater, 48. Ulm, 266. Upsala, 454. Url)ino, 328. Utrecht, 217. Valence, 403. Valencia, 412. Valenciennes, 201. Valladolid, 432. Vallombrosa, 337. Vaucluse, 403. Velletri, 371. Venice, 313, 307. Verona, 308, 307 Versailles, 191. Vesuvius, 379. Vevav, 291. Via Mala, 278. Vicenza, 311. Vifhv, 440. IVieiiua, 250.

Vienne, 403. Vincennes, 181.

Vi^ALES, 27.

Walhalla, The, 269. Wallenstadt, Lake, 277. Vl^artburg, 239. Warwick, 116. Waterloo, 206. Weimar, 240. Wells, 158. Wiesbaden, 237, 234. V/isfht, Isle of, 157. Wifdbad Gastein, 260. Wilhelmshohe, 238. Winchester, 156. Windermere, 44, 45- Windsor, 151. Worcester, 112. Wo rail s, 371. Wiirzburg, 270. YoEK, 98. Yverdon, 291. Zaandam, 217. Zerniatt, 295. Zurich, 276, 2^

MEMORANDA.

I

F P P P P P P P P

Q

R R. \h Ri Re Rf Rs

MEMORANDA.

4.

MEMORANDA.

/ D

LIBRARY OF CONGRESS

0 021 947 790 9